UC-NRLF 1 UK 1 1 ! j ||M : I'll' B M MIT nfl c ^.^ \y ^^.^ '^f^.'^/!/>^<^. ^^ :X. ^ : ua^. AV t?-^ 4^^ \ /a/. THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESENTED BY PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID ;.7 ^3> r^p^ ^y^ %\ ^^ ^ ^ ^> ^" .^^ ->-y> >oOi>^ b .^' / y ; i'^'/j ;-, ;^ -^g^JN^'sli^'^, .^JdMJ^ ^^ ^^ y -5' 1^ '"#5 ^ -^ ^; .5 1-,^ ^ ^^ *■ £? •19 V / ■/ ^ 'Vwv, ,wv M41^ ^^ \':,\yy^\i^'^" A^v, f ' ^B yi^^xz,^^^ yc^^TQp HANDBOOK OF THE RIYER PLATE; COMPEISING BUENOS AYRES, THE UPPER PROVISOES, BAiiDA • ORIENTAL, AND PARAGUAY, BY M. G. & E. T. MULHALL, Editors of the Stmtdard. IK TWO VOLUMES. VOL. L BUENOS AYRES: STAJtI>A£D printing-office, 74 CALLE BELGRANO. 1869. Price 160 /)er Volmnf. TO HIS EXCELLENCY D. F. SARMIENTO, PRESIDENT OF THE AR3EXTIXK aKPVBLIC, THIS WORK IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, BY THE AUTHORS. '; PRESERVATION COPY ADDED ORIGINAL TO BE RETAINED JAN 2 1993 F ^^0 e PKEPACE The utility of a work like the present is so manifest as to need neither explanation nor apology. If possible, it would be desirable to publish a Handbook of these countries annually, for the use as well of residents ia the River Plate, as of our friends in Europe and the United States. Unfortunately, the difficulties and outlay are far beyond any profit that the editors can expect. In fact we lost money by our edition of 1863, the National and Provincial Governments failing to subscribe for a single copy, although we had the satisfaction of knpwing that the work was productive of some good to our adopted country. In the improved and enlarged form of the present Handbook there will be found very complete and detailed information of these countries, as we have spared neither labor nor expense to deserve the approval of the foreign community, which is the great object we always keep in view. It has been our particular study to give an exact picture of foreign enterprise and industry in the River Plate, and the task was, indeed, an agreeable one. At the same time we have labored to point out to readers in Europe the many advantages which these countries enjov, to attract a larger tide of immigration. TS'or must we omit here to bear evidence to the liberal spirit of the institutions of these iviaiQaso ^l PAEFAGE. ■Republics, and the kindly feeling and cordiality of all educated Argentines and Orientals. In fine, we have every hope that with an increase of population and industrial resources the River Plate will soon follow in the footsteps of its great model, the United States. The conclusion of the Paraguayan War and commencement of President Sarmiento's administration is a most opportune time for the publication of the present work, in the hope of drawing increased attention to the River Plate. Under a progressive and peaceful administration we may look forward to widespread improvement, new enterprises, and an increase of trade and industry. Popular education also bids fair to make much head- "way, and no branch of knowledge is more important, nor more neglected in Buenos Ayres, than the study of the resources of the Argentine Republic ! Let us hope that patriotic Argentines will join heart and hand with foreigners to advance this fine country. Volume I. of the Handbook contains three sections, viz.: A., the Argentine Republic, its colonies, railways, history, public men, &c. ; B., the City of Buenos Ayres, its buildings, institutions, and port; C, the Camps of Buenos Ayres, comprising the various partidos and every estancia in the province. Volume II. contains four sections: D., the thirteen Argentine Provinces; E., the Banda Oriental; F., Paraguay; and G., a 45oraplete Directory, official, foreign, and commercial, of Buenos Ayres and Montevideo, each apart. The maps of the Argentine Republic, Buenos Ayres city, and Montevideo, will be bound with the second volume. In giving the Handbook now to the public we feel confident that it will meet with a good reception : whatever inaccuracies may have unavoidably <;rept in will be corrected in the next edition. We have to thank the ^numerous kind friei is who contributed iuterestir g information abeut their PREFACX. ViS •wn particular district, and especially the Irish clergymen in the camp^ to whom we beg to offer a copy of the book, gratis for each of their Lending Libraries. We also offer a copy for each public and charitable institution of the English, Scotch, American, and German communities on either side of the River Plate. Volume IL will appear on the 1st of June, and the Directory of Buenos Ayres is being carefully compiled by Mr. Frank Mulhall, 74 Calle Belgrano, to whom communications may be directed. M. G. & E. T. MULHALL. March 17, 1869, Standard Office, Buenos Ayrn. ERRATA. Sectios a., page 3, liae 3, read «I4,000,000 sheep.» « « 16, « 2, « «Pjrenees.» « « 109, «15, a «I00 tons monthly,), « H Chap. VIII. Itineraries of the Republic. General Bemarks, . — .... 9B Northern Boute, 99 Western Boute, .... 101 Cii.4P, IX. Enterprises^ Projects^ and Concessions. Bailways, Telegraphs, &c ,• .... . . . . ' .... 105 Harbor Acconiuiodation, ... .... • • • • . • • • HI Drainage and Water Supply, .... .... .... 113 Export of Cattle, .... .... .... 1 1 i Chap. X. Treaties of Commerce and Navigation. Treiily with Great Britain, .... .... .... n5 Treaty with the United States, .... .... 120 Chap. XI. Biographies of Public Men. President Sarmiepto, .... •.•. • • •. • •••• '-^-^ Vice-President Alsina, .... .... .... 125 Ex-Prcsident Jlitre, .... 1 2G General Urquiza, Archbishop of Buenos Ayres, Governor Castro, 127 CTr. Velez Sarsfield, Dr. Mariano Varela, Dr. Gorostiaga, 128 Dr. Avellaneda, Colonel Gainza, General GcUy y Obes, 129 General Paunero, Don N. de la Biestra, 1 30 Don Mariano Balcarce, Seftor Posadas, Postmaster-General, Mr. O'Gorman, Chief of Police, .... .... 131 CO^TE^TS. xi Chap. XII. Mining in the Cwjo Provinces. San Juan, .... Klappeabacb's mines, .... Babie's & Fragueiro's works, Hilario Mining Works, .... Mendoza, .... .... San Luis, .... .... Chap. XIII. History and Literature of River Plate. Chap. XVII. Miscellaneous. Customs Law for 18G9, .... .... National Stamped Paper, 1869, .... Administpatiou of President 5Iitre (1862-8), The ]\'at!onal Government, Congress, .... Courts of Law, Hierarchy, .... Budget for 1869, Post-oCBce Returns, Comparative Table of Time, PAGE. 132 13.3 139 141 144. 147 Historical Record, .... 150 Works Published on the River Plate, .... 152 River Plate Newspapers, .... .... 15i Chap. XIV. Monetjs^ Weights^ Measures, and Distances. Buenos Ayres, .... .... .... .... 156 Montevideo, Paraguay, .... .... 157 Table of Distances from Buenos Ayres, .... .... 158 Meteorological Table, .... .... 160 Chap. XV. Advice to Emigrants. Who to come, and who to stay at bome, .... 161 Steam Service to the River Plate, .... .... . . . .• 1 63 Letters of Credit, 166 Instructions on Landing, .... .... .... .... 167 Chap. XVI. Itineraries from England and Sew York. Englandto Buenos Ayres, .... .... .... 169 New York to Buenos Ayres, ..... .... .... 176 177 179 181 187 188 189 192 Xll CONTEiSlS. SECTION B. Chap. I. City of Buenos Ayres. Early History and Present Condition, Chap. II. Hotels, Clubs, Theatres, and Plazas. Hotels, .... Clubs, Theatres, .... .... Plazas, .... Markets, .... Chap. III. Public Departments. Government House, Post Office, Policia, Provincial Departments, Library, Legislature, Topographic Office, Archives, Commissariat, Parque, Congress Hall, Capitania, .... Municipality, Law Courts, .... Board of Health, Lottery, City Prisons, Museum and University, .... .... Public Schools, .... .... Chap. IV^ Churches and Charitable Institutions Churches, .... .... The Irish Convent, .... .... ... English Church, Scotch Church, American Church, German Church, Cemeteries,. . Admiral Brown's Monument, .... English Cemetery, Hospitals, .... British Hospital, .... .... Irish Hospital, , .... Convalescencia, Poor and Foundling Asylums, . . Chap. V. Streets and Shop Calle Bivadavia, .... Streets Running North, Streets Banning South, Streets BunningWest, north end. Streets Running West, south end. 6 8 11 16 18 21 22 2i 26 28 30 32 34 37 38 39 40 41 43 44 46 49 50 54 56 58 CONTENTS. XIU Chap. VI. The Custom-house Import Traffic, Unloading, .... .... .... Goods in Transit, Direct Despatch, Passengers' Luggage, Goods for Deposit, Export Traffic, Shipment in Transit, Health Papers, .... Chap. VII. Bolsa, Banks, and Public Companies The Bolsa de Comercio, .... The Provincial Bank, .... .... Maua Bank, .... .... .... English Bank, .... .... .... The Argentine Bank, .... Wanklvn's Bank, Hart's Bank, the Bural Society, Insurance and Joint -Stock Companies, .... River Plate Telegraph Company, Commercial Rooms, British Clerks' Provident Association* .... The Cricket and Athletic Clubs, the Jockey Club, Chap. VIII. The Suburbs. Belgrano, Palermo, .... .... Flores, .... .... Barracas, .... The Boca, South Barracas, .... .... Chap. IX. Excursions by Railway. The Northern, to the Tigre, The Boca and Ensenada Railway, The Western, to Chivilcoy, The Southern, to Chascomus, .... Chap. X. Tariffs^ Taxes, Regulations. Provincial Stamped Paper, Law of Licences ( 1 869,) .... .... Property Tax, Tariff for Lighters, Municipal, Gas, and Sereno Tax, Parochial Division of the City, Bules of the Faculty of Medicine, .... .... 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 69 70 73 75 77 78 SO 82 83 84 85 87 88 90 95 97 99 104 107 114 119 121 124 127 128 XIV COJNTEliTS. Chap. XI. The Mouth of the River Plate, and Port of Buenos Ayres. The Approach to the River, Anchorage, .... The Port of Buenos Ayres, The Outer Roads, The Inner Roads, . ... Position of Buenos Ayres, Pilots, ' ... The Riachuelo, Pamperos, .... The Barometer, Temperature, Tides, The Route from. Monte video to Buenos The Channels, Point Indio, .... Advice to Mariners, Ayres, PAGE. 129 131 132 133 134 136 137 138 141 148 149 150 154 155 158 159 SECTION 0. Chap. I. The Province of Buenos Ayres. General Description . . . . . . . 1 Partidos and Towns, 4 Chap. II Life in the Camp. Cattle Farming, .... • • • • . • . • • • 9 Sheep Farming, 13 Chap. III. The Riverine Partidos. iBelgrano, .... .... .... 20 > San Isidro, .... .... 21 4 San Fernando, .... 23 Las Conchas, 24 ^ Zarate, .... 27 '^ Baradero, .... 28 j San Pedro, .... 31 '_>t Rincon de Ramallo, .... 33 >( San Nicolas, .... .... 34 COI^TE.NTS. xr Chap. IV. The JS'orthern Partidos. ,W.) Pilar, .... 37 Capilla del Seiior, . . . ; .... .... 39 X San Andres de Giles, • .... .... .... 41 / San Antonio de Areco, .... .... 42 T<:Carraen de Areco, .... 4i X Salto, 47 /Arrecifes, 49 Chap. V. North and West Frontiers. K Pergamino, .... .... • - .53 y Bojas, .... 56 X Junin, .... 60 Lincoln, .... .... .... 62 V^Chacabuco, 63 Bragado, • . * .... 65 y Nueve de Julio, .... 68 vVeinte Cinco de Mayo, .... 71 Chap. VI. The Western Partidos. y San Jose de Flores, / Malanzas, .... V San Martin, "^ Moron, .... /Merlo, Moreno, / Las Heras, Lujan, yc 3Iercedes, • • • • ^ "x Snipacha, Chivileoy, / y 77 79 80 83 85 91 96 Chap. VIL South Western Partidos. ' -f Canuelas, .... V>'avarro, V Lobos, .... Guardia del Monte, VSaladillo, • "^as Flores, ^ Tapalquen, lot 103 106 108 111 113 117 XVl CONTENTS. Chap. VIII, Southern Partidos. South Barracas, Lomas de Zamorra, San Vicente, Ranches, .... €hascomiis, .... Dolores, .... PAGB. 120 121 124 127 131 137 Chvp. IX. South Coast Partidos. Quilmes, Ensenada, .... Magdalena, .... Rivadavia, Castelli, Tordillo, Aj6, .... Tuyu, Mar Chiquita, Pila, Vecino, Monsalvo, Ayacucho, Arenales, Ranch, Azul, Tandil, Balcarce, Lobcria, Necochea, Tres Arroyos, Rahia Rlanca, Patagones, . . .... 140 .... 145 1 53 .... 15G . . .... . . 1 58 . . .... . . 1 59 . . . . . ; 161 162 r South Partidos. . . .... . . 165 .... 167 .... 168 .... 170 .... 171 . . ... 172 .... 174 .... 177 . . .... . . 181 .... 183 .... 185 . . .... 187 .... 1 89 . . .... . . 193 Chap. XI. The Islamls of the Parana. Description and first settlers, .... .... 198 34 '^/C,^-.^^^* SECTION A. CHAP. I. THE RIVER PLATE REPUBLICS. The River Plate Republics are three in number, viz. : the Argentine Nation (or La Plata, properly so called), Uruguay or Banda Oriental, and Paraguay. These immense territories, formerly comprehended in the vice- royalty of Buenos Ayres imder the Spanish regime, cover nearly 900,000 square miles, with a scanty population not exceeding three millions, or three inhabitants per square mile. The mineral and agricultural resources of these countries are perhaps equal to those of the United States, and the water system is almost unrivalled, the afiluents of the Plate ramifying one- lialf of the Continent. The climate is the healthiest on the face of the globe, the inhabitants are very friendly to foreigners, civil and religious liberty prevail in the fullest sense, and treaties of amity and commerce have been concluded with all the great Powers. Trade relations and new enterprises of importance have brought the River Plate into close contact ^ with Great Britain and the London capitalists, and there are few countries which offer more inducements to English emigrants than these, or few foreign nations viewed with more respect, by Argentines, than Great Britain. The Argentijse Republic is for the most part an unbroken plain, bounded (j on the ]\orth by Bolivia, on the West by the Cordillera of the Andes, on ySa the South by Magellan's Straits, and on the East by Brazil, Banda Oriental, >4.as'?^ the Atlantic. It is divided into fourteen provinces, some of which /Tanakiui*^*!® deserving of note, but others have attained a high degree of zation. 2 THE RIVER PLATE REPUBLICS. Tlie Province of Buenos Ayres is nearly equal to all the rest collectively, in importance, wealth, and population, being moreover the great centre of foreign immigration. The city of the same name is the seat of the National and Provincial Governments, and one of the principal sea-ports of South America. In the refinement of its society, progressive spirit of the people^ and activity of trade and industry, it yields to no other city in the Continent, and has earned the title of « Athens of South America.)) Entre Eios and Santa Fe have of late attracted much notice as sheep-farming countries. Cordoba, the heart of the interior, will soon receive a great impulse from the Central Argentine Railway. San Juan and Cataraarca are remarkable for their mineral wealth. Mendoza, at the foot of the Cordil- lera, formerly the chief city of the Cuyo provinces, is hardly emerging from the ruins of the earthquake of 1 86 1 . Santiago and the other northern provinces have been hitherto so isolated as to be almost valueless,, but the projected navigation of the Vermejo, and the openiug of a highway through the Gran Chaco, will unite them with the river Parana, the great artery of the Republic. The provinces called Literal, from being adjacent to this river, have an immense advantage over the rest, possessing cheap freight and easy transit to Buenos, Ayres and the commercial world. Tiie population of the Republic is usually set down at a million and a half souls, but is ; rather over than under that estimate. The established religion is Roman Catholic, and the language Spanish, from which nation the original settlers were descended. »< The Republic of Uruguay, or «Eanda Oriental,)) is separated from the last-mentioned country by the Rivers Plate and Uruguay : the La Plata, opposite Buenos Ayres, is twenty-eight miles wide. It is very different from the sister state, in being intersected with numerous chains of moun- tains, called here Cuchillas or Sierras. Its extent is 63,000 square miles, or larger than England by one-eighth. 3Iany of the general features are similar to those of La Plata, the country being eminently adapted for sheep and cattle farming, and, moreover, free from Indian incursions. The capital, ^lontevideo, is favorably situated near the mouth of the Plate, and its commerce is almost equal to that of Buenos Ayres, from which port it is distant 120 miles. The next towns of importance are — Salto and Paysandu, on the River Uruguay ; Canelones, TacuarembO, and Minas, in the interior ; Mercedes, on the Rio Negro ; Colonia, abreast of Buenos Ayres ;> and Maldonado, on the Atlantic. The country is thickly wooded in parts, and presents a beautifully diversified appearance. Of .late years there has been an immense inllux of immigrants, and several Bueuos Ayrean land-owners also possess cstancias on this side: the population was REPUBLIC OF PARAGUAY. 5 quintupled in the forty years from 1824-G4, being now returned as 300,000. Tlie live stock is considerable, amounting to 8,000,000 head of horned cattle, /4,000,000 sheep, and 2,000,000 of other kinds. The Custom > regulations are much more liberal than those of Buenos Ayres ; the religion and language are the same. Dui'ing the past two years the country \sas desolated by civil war, but everything now seems satisfactorily settled, and the Government is really anxious to improve the means of internal transit, develop the riches of the Republic, and foster foreign immigration. Paraguay is not always counted one of the River Plate Republics, being over a thousand miles inland, but we have included it because formerly a part of the vice-royalty, besides being situated on the principal afauent of La Plata, and so intimately connected with Buenos Ayrfes. It is the country least known of this Continent, and yet had made great advancement in the years just preceding the 'present war. Up to 1840 it was entirely closed against foreigners', under the rule of the sanguinary tyrant, D. Caspar Traucia. Railways, telegraphs, arsenal, dry docks, and other splendid works sprung up of late, employing a large and eCBcient staff of English mechanics. The Republic covers about 70,000 square miles, but claims a much larger territory, the frontiers with Brazil, Bolivia, and La Plata not bemg yet clearly defined. The census of 1857 gives a popidation of 1,337,449. The climate is warm, the country hilly and pictiuesque, and the soil fertile. The inhabitants ace the most industrious in South America, the amount of land under cereals, cotton, and tobacco amounting to half a million of acres. The chief product of the country is yerba-mate or Paraguay tea, whicli, in time of peace, is annually exported (mostly to Buenos Ayres) to the value of £200,000. The cultivation of cotton was begun in 1863, but interrupted by the war. The capital, Asuncion, is a town of 25,000 inhabitants, formerly in weekly communication by steamer with the River Plate ; it has some fine buildings, but is much behind Buenos Ayres and Montevideo. Yilla Rica is the most important town in the interior, and those next in order are situated on the river Paraguay. The language of the country is Guaraui, most of the people being descended from that race of Indians by inter-marriage with the Spanish settlers. As yet few^ foreigners have settled in Paraguay, but the natives are very kind and affable, and the police organization is perfect. The unhappy war which broke out in the beginning of 1865 has been ruinous to Paraguay, but earned for the natives a high reputation for valor. THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC CHAP. II. THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC. This Republic holds the second rank among South American nations, coming next after the Empire of Brazil in extent and importance, though com- paratively low in the scale of population and native industry. There is, probably, no country on the face of the earth so favored by Nature: being entirely situated in the South temperate zone, it enjoys a delightful climate, and the soil is so varied and fertile that it produces almost spon- taneously all the great staples of liome consumption and foreign commerce. Cotton, wheat, tobacco, yerba-mite, cochineal, wine, coffee, silk, sugar, wool, and fruits of every kind may be raised of a superior quality, and in such abundance as to supply less favored nations. The mineral resources of the country are hardly less important : copper, silver, lead, salt, marble, lime-stone, granite, and coal are found in various places, and only require proper management and improved means of transit to become sources of national wealth. The country is, moreover, magnificently wooded and watered : the Gran Chaco possesses more timber, suitable for every purpose, than the whole of Europe, and the number and extent of navigable rivers are quite equal to the natural greatness and future requirenrents of a Republic destined one day to rival the Colossus of North America. There is, unhappily, a sad contrast between what La Plata might be, and what it actually is. It does not export one bale of cotton ; its tobacco is unknown ; rice is a foreign commodity ; yerba-niilte from Brazil excludes that from Corrientes ; cochineal abounds in Oran, but is not worth the freight; 3Iendoza wine has no market for the same reason; coffee is considered too troublesome ; the spiders of Corrientes weave a fine silk, which no one thinks of gathering ; sugar is hardly cultivated ; fi'uits arc unprized, and our export returns show but three great staples in the Republic — wool, hides, and tallow. THE FOURTEEN PROVINCES. The Republic comprises fourteen provinces, besides the Gtitf dy^^i^ffig folio wing .table gives their names , extent and population :■ — ' '"*'' Square Miles. Inhabitants. Buenos Ayres, 70,000 500,000 Entre Rios, . 50,000 115,000 ^ Corrientes, , 60,000 110,000 '^ Santa Fe, .... , 20,000 50,000 Cordoba, .... , , 60,000 150,000 Santiago del Estero, , 35,000 115,000 Tucuman, . 28,000 98,000 Salta, . 50,000 101,000 Jajuy, . 30,000 42,000 Catamarca, . 35,000 105,000 Rioja, , 35,000 43,000 San Juan, . , 33,000 75,000 Mendoza, .... , , 65,000 62,000 San Luis, .... . 20,000 58.000 Gran Chaco, . . 250,000 40,000 Pampas and Patagonia, . . • 440,000 46,000 Total, 1,281,000 1,710,000 The cliief to^ns are : — • Buenos A\Tes, .... ] River Plate, 200,000 Cordoba, .... [ n 25 S. lat., 25,000 Rosario, ] \{i\ er Parand, 20,000 Corrientes, .... do.. 13,000 Tucuman, ! 27.10 S.lat., 12,000 Salta, 5 >4. 57, 11,000 San Juan, Rio San Juan, 12,000 The capital of each province (except Entre Rios) bears the same name, but the above are the only places worthy of note, and the rest have rather retrograded than improved, of late years, owing to the incessant civil wars and want of immigration. The form of government is very complicated and unwieldy, but shaped after the model of the United States. The ^^ational Executive is composed of — President, Domingo F. Sarmiento ; Yice-President, Adolfo Alsina; Home Minister, Dr. Dalmacio Velez Sarslield ; Foreign Affairs, Dr. Mariano Varela ; Finance, D. Benjamin Gorostiaga ; Instruction, Dr. Nicolas Avellaneda ; War, Colonel Gainza. The seat of government is Buenos Ayres, where Congress also assembles : there are two Chambers, the b THE ARGEJNTIJSE REPUBLIC. ^ Senators and the Deputies, elected in ratio by the various provinces. Eacli province has also its own Governor and Legislature, almost independent of the Supreme National authorities, and following no uniform rule. Buenos AjTes has two Provincial Chambers sitting- within a stone's throw of the National Parliament; the other provinces have but one. In Cordoba the Governor has three Ministers, in other places there are two, but several provinces boast only one ; and each Province has a separate Constitution. The religion is Roman Catholic. There are aboiit 10,000 Protestants among the foreign community, attached to the English, Scotch, American, and German congregations. Spanish is spoken throughout the Republic, but Guarani is much in use at Corrientes, Qaichua at Santiago, and French and English are becoming very general in Buenos Ayres. The military service of the Republic is performed by troops of the Line and National Guards or militia. The first consist of ten regiments of infantry, nine of cavalry, and two of artillery, numbering 6,650 men, and they are employed in the defence of the frontiers against the Indians. In the Province of Buenos Ayres, which has a very extensive frontier of 130 leagues, there are three principal cantonments — the town of Azul, south ; the Veinte y Cinco de Mayo, west ; and Rojas, north. These little towns carry on a brisk trade from the consumption of the troops, and the barter trade with the friendly Indians. Before the outbreak of the Paraguayan war the troops of the Line were distributed as follows : — Regiment. 1st, 2nd, .3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 5th, 8th, 8th, Total, CAVALRY. Station. . , strength Mendoza, 450 Fraile Muerto, 250 Rojas, 250 San Luis, 250 25 de Mayo, 200 Santa Fe, 200 Rio Cuarto, 450 Cordoba, 150 Melincue, 150 Azul, 100 • . • • . • • ... 2,450 ARMY AIN'D NATIOlfAL GUAM). 1 ; 1 INFANTRY. t Begiment. station. Strength 1st, Buenos Ayres, 350 2nd, do., 350 3rd, Azul, 350 4th, 25 de Mayo, 350 5th, Tandil, 350 6th, Rioja, 400 7th, Buenos Ayres, 350 8th, Salta, 350 Italian Legionj Buenos Ayres, 400 Italian Legion, Azul, 200 Total, 3,450 3Iartin Garcia, Mendoza, .... Frayle 3Iuerto, San Juan, Total, ARTILLERY. Rifles 400 250 100 750 RESUMED. In the Provinces, In Buenos Ayres, Total, 3,100 3,550 6,650 The National Guard is composed of citizens who are regularly drafted from the country districts, and they guard the intervening redoubts or forts ; their term of service is six months, and they are allowed during that period the pay of soldiers in campaign, e.e., §230 per month. No National Guards from the capital are ever drafted for this service, for they are not always presumed to be, like the country people in the province, first-class horsemen, a necessary qualification for Indian warfare. The National army is composed of the following officers : — 7 Brigadier-Generals (the highest rank obtainable in the country), 25 Generals, 217 Com- manding-officers, and 605 subordinate officers — total, 854; which is rather more than a due proportion for only 6,650 men. 8 TUE ARGENTINE BEPUBI^IC. The National Guards on frontier service last year numbered 1,870 meu^ and, besides, there were 387 friendly Indians in Government service. The friendship of these Indians is. of course exceedingly doubtful ; they often steal cattle from the neighboring estaucias. By law, every citizen of the Republic is a National Guard, and liable, under certain circuinstances, to be called into active service. The number is as follows: — Buenos Ayres, Entre Bios, Corrientes, San Luis, Santiago, Jujuy, .... Mendoza, San Juan, Tucuman, Salta, Cordoba, Catamarca, Total, The Provinces of Santa Fe and La Bioja are not included, in this oflflcial estimate, they are supposed to give— the first 6,000 and the second 3,000 men, thus making a grand total of 159,622, which is rather under than over the mark. But although presenting a respectable array in number, they are not nearly as powerful or effective as they should be, under proper organization. The National debt (including that of Buenos Ayres) is about £12,000,00a sterling, the interest of which is regularly attended to, taking a-fifth of the total revenue. The revenue and expenditure for 1869 will not be under $ 14,000,000s., which, for our population, averages ^8 per head, or three times the average of Chili, and our War-offlce costs over ^8,000,000 or g5 per head. Let us compar,e this with the revenue and population of the various states of Europe, from the oifficial Almanac of .the United States. 40,165 19,314 9,349 5,404 19,514 . . . . .... 2,851 5,708 6,990 14,450 15,091 8,000 3,786 150,622 »EVE>UE AND EXPENDITURE. Population. EeTcnne. Average per Head. Great Britain, 29,500,000 $322,000,000 S 10.95 France, 37,500,000 413,000,000 1 1 .00 Russia, 67,000,000 231,000,000 3.40 Austria, 35,000,000 171,000,000 4.88 Prussia, 18,500,000 96,000,000 5.32 Belgium, .... 4,750,000 26,000,000 5.40 Denmark, .... 2,750,000 11,000,000 4.00 Italy, 22,500,000 155,000,000 6.95 Holland, .... 3,500,000 33,000,000 9.40 Portugal, 4,000,000 15,000,000 3.75 Sweden and Norway, 5,250,000 14,000,000 2.65 Switzerland, 2,500,000 3,000,000 1.20 Spain, 16,500,000 97,000,000 5.88 Turkey, 16,500,000 65,000,000 3.95 General total, 265,750,000 $1,652,000,000 S^-'^^ For the financial year ending 3 1st March, 1868, the increase was in round numbers $2,470,000 s., or 26 per cent, on the previous year. The total expenditure — including 6,500,000 for the Paraguayan war, 1,500,000 for the Interior riots, and 500,000 for amortisation of the public debt— amounted to $13,920,164. The total income was slightly over $12,000,000. Thus, it will be seen that were it not for the Paraguayan ■war, the Government would be in possession of a splendid surplus. The National Bonds in circulation amount to 15,364,800, of which amount 5,000,000 are held by the Provincial Bank. With the trifling exception of a direct tax collected in the city of Buenos Ayres, amounting to about $200, 000s., the whole revenue of the National Government is raised by indirect taxation, more than nine- tenths of which are Customs duties, import and export, the proportion being about seven-and-a-half-tenths in import duties, and two-tenths export duties ; the small balance is derived from stamps, post-office, and miscellaneous taxes. In round numbers the four principal provinces of the Confederation contribute to the Customs revenue in the following proportions : — ^Buenos Ayres, 70; Santa Fe, 10; Corrientes, 5; Entre Bios, 5; the remaining ten being the quota of the other provinces. The increase in the Customs receipts in Buenos Ayres has been much less in proportion than that of the Provinces of Santa Fe and Corrientes, 10 THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC. a proof that the direct trade with these provinces is augmenting. Taking the revenue in round numbers at 14,000,000, one-half is expended in military purposes. The 3Iinistry of Finance consumes rather less than one-tenth ; a large part is expended in collecting the Custom's revenues. As there is only one port of importance this expense is relatively not greater than in other countries, probably not more than 5 per cent, of the revenue collected. Justice, Public Worship, and Education require only one-twelfth, as each separate province has its own administration in these respects. Foreign Affairs and Legations consume only an eightieth part of the revenue. The 3Iinistry of the Interior consumes an eighth of the whole. Of this amount the National Congress and Public Credit figure for more than a third. Finally the interest on the National Debt takes one-fifth of the revenue. The increase of trade in late years has been unprecedented, as may be seen from the returns of National revenue. 1863, .... .... .... $6,478,682 1864, .... ...; .... 7,005,328 1865, .... .... .... 8,295,071 1866, .... .... .... 9,568,554 The value of imports and exports was, in 1862, $45,890,282; and in 1866, §66,358,551. The import and export trade returns with Great Britain in 1866 shewed an increase of 26 per cent, over the previous year; those with France 11 per cent.; with Brazil 45 per cent.; with Spain 11 per cent. The only falling off was in imports from the United States and Holland : the trade in American flour has entirely ceased, owing to the cultivation of wheat in the last few years. Value of Imports, 1865 .... 27,103,017 Do., 1866 .... 32,269,082 Of imports, we get one-third from England, one-fourth from France, one-eighth from Brazil, and the rest from Spain, United States, Montevideo, and Italy. The value of the imports in 1866 from England alone amounted to $10,240,2 10s., being an excess of 2,234,000 over the imports of the previous year, and more than double those of 1862. The export returns for 1866 shew an incriease of nearly 5 per cent, on the previous year, viz. : — Value of exports, .... 1865 .... 21,996,777 Do., .... 1866 .... 23,029,711 TRADE RETURNS. I! Of exports, Belgium takes one-third, France one-fourth. United States one-fifth, England one-eighth, and Spain, Italy, and Brazil the rest. The gross returns of 1866 compared with 1862, shew an increase of 50 per cent, in our commerce, but that with England was nearly doubled in the interval. The greatest increase in our exports is in wool — 1862 .... .... .... ^8,153,575 1863 73,592,425 1864 ..». 87,976,776 1865 .... 115,852,430 1866 116,494,970 This includes a small proportion (5 percent.) of washed wool. The shipping returns shiew that 1,036 sailing vessels, representing 267,213 tons, arrived here from foreign ports during 1866, being an increase of 374 vessels over the returns for 1862. The number of steam- boat arrivals for 1866 is put down at 487 ; but this does not include the smaller ones of passenger traffic. Immigration from Europe, up to 1862, averaged 5,000; it now exceeds 25,000 per annum — mostly Italians, French, English, and Spaniards ; of these, two-thirds are able-bodied men of the laboring classes, with a sprinkling of women and children, and 10 per cent, educated persons. There are six railways in the Bepublic, with 350 miles open to traffic, 190 in construction, and seven other lines projected. The business of the Buenos Ayres Post-office has increased enormously of late years : the number of letters and papers passing through the office in 1859 was 400,000, in 1862 it rose to 800,000^ and in 1865 it amounted to 2,000,000! This last was an increase of 33 per cent, on the previous year. The population of the city and province of Buenos Ayres in 1801 was set down at 72,000, in 1855 at 271,000 and at present it must be nearly double the last figure. Within the last three years no fewer than 3,550 houses have been built or re-built in the city: in the same period we have to note a similar activity in every branch of industry and progress. 12 THE ARGENTmE REPUBLIC. The farming-stock of the Republic is set down, according to statistic^ of 1866, as follows:— HORNED lASSES & PROVINCES. CATTLE. HORSES. 1 1 MULES. SHEEP. ' GOATS. SWINE. B. Ayres .... 6,000,000 1,800,000 30,OOo! 60,000,000 5,000 115,000 E litre Rios . . 2,500,000 600,000 7,500 6,000,000 .... .... Corrientes . . 2,000,000 375,000 60,000 1,000,000 10,000 4,500 Cataraarca . . 185,000 40,000 40,000 80,000 121,000 2,500 Mendoza .... 210,000 71,000 7,500 230,000 70,000 8,500 Salta 255,000 50,000 50,000 150,000 95,000 2,500 San Luis .... 300,000 96,000 14,000 160,000 285,000 Tucuman .... 275,000 85,000 22,000 95,0*00 25,000 Cordoba, San • • • • .... .... Juan, Jujuy, • • • • ..... .... .... .... Rioja, Santa • • • • .... .... .... .... Fe, Santiago, • • • • .... .... .... .... no returns. .... .... .... It may give an idea of the industrial condition of the Republic, to submit a list of the articles forwarded to the Paris Exhibition, and the names of those who gained prizes. The Central Committee of Buenos Ayres forwarded seventy-four boxes, containing numerous interesting specimens. Cordoba sent a collection of minerals and samples of marble. Jujuy sent a variety of valuable woods, manufactured articles, cereals, brandy, iudigo, &c. Tucuman exhibited forty kinds of timber, and various works of handicraft such as tanned hides, plaited reins, an v*ii The Spaniards are with difficulty distinguished from the natives. They come mostly from Andalusia, Catalonia, and Galicia. The Catalans are wine merchants and first-rate business men. The Andalusians are cigar sellers and shop-keepers. The Galicians are street porters, night watchmen, newspaper messengers, and domestic servants : they are sober and honest, but not very enterprising. The Italians are the most numerous class of all, and may be found in every occupation of city life, and also scattered through every part of the vast territory. Finding here a similarity of language and climate to their own, the Italians make the River Plate their favored place of colonization. As masons and builders they are specially useful, and the various splendid piles of building .raised within the last ten years have given them an active business. In the humbler calling of market- gardeners they also supply the city with vegetables and earn a profitable livelihood. The monopoly of the river navigation and coasting crafts is in the hands of Genoese ; the crew are generally equal sharers in the venture, and appoint a «patrou)) or captain to command, and trade on their own account, puixhasing cheese, birds, skins, fruit, &c. in the upper markets, to bring to Buenos Ayres or IMontevidco. They construct their own ships in the suburb of the Boca, where they have formed a rapidly rising town of about 5,000 inhabitants. In the Upper Provinces the number of forigign settlers is very small ; still there are a few scattered here and there, viz. : — In Salta, chiefly Bolivians ; who come there for the purposes of trade, and on account of the political convulsions of their own republic : similitude of origin, climate, soil, and productions, as well as the IMMIGRATION RETURNS. 17 proximity to their own frontiers, accounts for tlieir preference of this province. The Colony of Esquina Grande, situated at the head -waters of the Vermejo, is almost exclusively composed of natives of Bolivia. In Mendoza and San Juan, there are not many Europeans, but a considerable number of Chilians, who are engaged principally in the mines. In Cordoba there are about a thousand foreigners, chiefly French, Germans, Italians, and Spaniards, and a few English ; their occupation is in the mines, flour mills, lime kilns, and as mechanics and goat-breeders. In Entre Rios and Corrientes there is a large number of foreigners. Many of them are Avealthy, and their occupations are so varied, that they are to be found in every branch of industry and trade. In Entre Rios there is a number of English estancieros. The Province of Santa Fe has three thriving colonies, tliat of Entre Rios two, and that of Buenos Ayres one. The Committee of Immigration have agents in various parts of Europe, viz. : — 3Ir. Beck Bernard, Berne ; for Switzerland and Germany. Mr. John Lelong, Paris ; for France. ]\Ir. Lloyd, of Messrs. Wright, Kelso, & Co., Liverpool. Mr, Hadfield, and Messrs. T. M. Mackay & Son, London. Mr. Perkins, Montreal, Canada. The Committee have a Home for Emigrants at >*o. 8 Calle Corrientes, where they get food and lodging gratis till they find employment. Free immigration is the rule : neither the Government nor the Com- mittee assist in paying passages from Europe. The current of emigration from Europe is rapidly increasing, as we see by the returns, as follows : — 1858, 1859, 1860, 1861, 186-2, The relative proportion of the various nationalities in 1837 was — Italians, .38 percent.; French, 13; Spaniards, 9 ; English, 6 ; Swiss, 4; Germans, 3 j other nationalities, 27 per cent. 4,658 1863, 10,400 4,715 1864, 11,680 5,656 1865, 11,770 6,300 1866, 13,9G0 6,716 1867, . . 23,500 18 FOREIGN POPULATION. The number of vessels and passengers from foreign ports in 1867 is given as follows : — Vessels. Passengers. Genoa, 61 8,314 Bordeaux, 55 2,409 Bayonne, 13 1,800 Havre, 25 627 Blarseilles, 30 1,156 Vigo, 3 500 Corunna, 5 563 Barcelona, 33 174 Tarragona, 6 45 Cadiz, 24 1,302 Liverpool, 64 815 Glasgow, 18 74 London, 6 25 Southampton, . 12 150 Antwerp, 17 1,688 Hamburg, 68 227 Bremen, 2 31 Transhipped at Montevideo 3,600 Total .... 441 23,500 In the report of the Immigration Committee the following scale of wages is given, and the figures are not exaggerated : — Farm servants, Monthly, wi th Board, ^3 5s. Gardeners, do., do., £4 to £5 House Servants, do., do., £-2 10s. to £3 Cooks, do.. do.. £3 to £4 Needle-women, do.. do.. £3 Milliners, do.. do.. £3 to £4 Laundresses, do.. do.. £3 . Brick-layers, .... Daily, without Board, 6s. Qd. Carpenters, .... do., do., Is. 6d. Blacksmiths, .... do., do.. 7s. 6f/. Tailors, .... do.. do.. 6s. to 10s. Shoemakers, do., do.. 7s. 6d. Railway navvies, do., do., 8s. Saladeto peons, do.. do., 12s..to £1 is. PROSPERITY OF IMMIGRANTS. 19 The cost of a mechanic's board and lodging does not exceed three shillings a day. Workmen of all kinds find immediate employment, and the new railways will require thousands of navvies. Any number of farm-laborers, married or unmarried, will find plenty of work on the estancias of Buenos Ayres. Domestic servants are much wanted in town, and women are preferred. Nothing can better shew the prosperity of immigrants than the official return of depositors in the State Bank of Buenos Ayres, Of 100 depositors the various nationalities were thus represented : — Italians, 30 French, 9 Argentines, 18 English and Irish, 4 Spaniards, 13 Germans, 4 Basques, 13 Various, 9 The proportion of moneys so lodged was distributed as follows — out of every 100,000,000 paper dollars deposited, the owners were : — Argentines, 27,000,000 Basques, 9,000,000 Italians, 20,000,000 French, 8,000,000 English and Irish, 1 4,000,000 Germans, .... 6,000,000 Spaniards, 10,000,000 Various, 6,000,000 It must be borne in mind that besides the depositor's in bank there are thousands of industrious Europeans who have invested their savings in land and farming stock. Many of the Irish settlers, as in Nortli America, send home sums of money to their relatives, to support them or pay their passage hither. The Irish housemaids in town have also accounts in the Savings-banks. The Italians, as a rule, practise the greatest economy, to accumulate a fortune of £500 or £1,000 ; and, this attained, they return to their native land. The French, on the contrary, as soon as they have made some money, start a mill or some such enterprise, and settle for good in the country. e2 20 AGRICULTURAL COLONIES. CHAP. lY. AGRICULTURAL COLONIES. Besides the numberless foreign settlers established as sheepfarmers, or in other occupations, there are six agricultural colonies founded by capitalists or Provincial Governments, on given concessions of land. In Santa Fe there are three colonies, in Entre Rios two, and in Buenos A J res one, viz. : — SA^'TA FE. Esperanza, . . . . 1627 colonists, Eight Leagues from Santa Fe. SanJeronimo, 800 do., Two Leagues from Esperanza. San Carlos, 735 do., .... Two Leagues from S. Jeronimo. Santa Fe is the province which has done most for colonisation, and its colonies are in a thriving way. The soil is fertile, watered by numerous rivers and «arroyos,)) which abound in fish. The Governor of Santa Fe gives a free passage by steamer from Buenos Ay res to all mechanics or settlers bound for Rosario or Santa F6 city, or other part of the province. The port for the colonies is Santa Fe, which has weekly communication w ith Buenos Ay res, Montevideo, Corrientes, and the smaller ports. The Esperanza Colony^ founded by D.Aaron Castellanos in 1856: the first settlers were Germans, who brought with them a clergyman, a director, and a schoolmaster. In 1858 the Argentine Government took the colony under its protection, indemnifying Sr. Castellanos with £24,000 sterling. The first years were unfortunate, owing to the locusts; but the colony is now flourishing. It is composed of 355 families, counting 1,627 69 23 20 In 1865 the colony had 85 births, 28 deaths, and 28 marriages. colonists, viz. : — Swiss, 852 Belgians, Germans, 456 Italians, French, 207 Various, Vegetables, dried, 754 fan. Butter, 653 cwt. Cheese, 600 do. THE SAIVTA FE COLONIES. 21 There are in the colony a Catholic chapel, another for Protestants, tAvo schools, and 474 dwelling-houses, each house having a^ell of excellent water. The number of farm-lots occupied is* 210, each containing 85 acres English. There is a vast extent of ground in this colony as yet unallotted. The yield for 1865 was as follows : — Wheat, 5,895 fan. (.350tt) Indian corn, 12,370 do. Barley, 240 do. Potatoes, 1,200 do. This produced, after deducting for home use, a market value of £30,000. The number of fruit-trees, mostly peaches, is put down at 100,000, and the vines have given such good results that new plantations are being made. The stock, in 1865, comprised : — Cows and oxen, 8,000 I Pigs, 710 Horses and mules, .... 1,700 Poultry, .... 2,500 Sheep, 708 1 Beehives, .... 20 The colonists exported during the year, 55 brls. of flour, 545 cow- hides, and 625li of hair. The occupations we find thus distributed — 19 groceries and draperies, 9 carpenter-shops, 6 brick-layers, 5 black- smiths, 4 midwives, 4 bootmakers, 4 mills, 3 tailors, 2 inns, 3 brick- kilns, 1 baker, 1 doctor, 1 brewer, 2 steam mills, 2 windmills, 1 sawing, 6 reaping, 2 threshing, and 10 winnowing machines, 220 dairies. The San Jeronimo Colony is two leagues from that of Esperanza, comprising 157 families, which count 753 colonists, settled on 181 farm-lots of 85 acres each. In the concession there is still a large tract of ground ready for any who may join the colony. The returns for 1865 were : — • Swiss, 644 colonists. Germans 67 do. French^ 13 do. Italicms, 10 colonists. North Americans, 3 do. IXatives, 3 do. Belgians, 13 do. Births 19, deaths 10, marriages 2. The colony boasts a church, school, and 165 dwelling houses. There are 5 shops, 3 mills, 3 blacksmiths, 4 carpenters, 1 brewer, 1 butcher, 3 shoe-makers, 1 mason, 1 gunsmith — but most of these artisans devote their chief attention to agriculture. The number of fruit trees is put down at 30,000. 22 AGRICULTURAL COLOSIES. The crops for 1865 gave : — Wheat, . . . Indian corn, Oats, Potatoes, . . . Vegetables, The stock comprised : CoAvs or oxen, Horses, Sheep, 2,000 fanegas. 3, -000 do. 10 500 48 do. do. do. 3,000 570 14 Butter, Cheese, Poultry, Eggs, 200 cwt. 200 do. 1,000 845,000 Pi""S I Iq^, .... Hens and ducks, 331 2,150 The San Carlos Colony is situate 8 leagues S.W. of Santa Fe, 6 south of Esperanza, and 5| N.W. of Goronda ; the last named is a port on a branch of the Parana. Only a small part of the concession (which comprises 330 lots) is yet taken up by settlers, but there are 130 farm-lots, of 85 acres, under cultivation. Every alternate lot belongs to the concessionaires, but they allow the use of same to the colonists for grazing purposes. There are 130 families, with 735 colonists : — Swiss, Italians, French, 393 204 95 Germans, IXatives, 19 24 Of these there Avere 266 men, 203 women, and 266 children. Births 35, deaths 4, marriages 8. The colony boasts a church, 3 schools, and 210 houses. There are 6 shops, 2 mills, 1 carpenter and 1 blacksmith. The industry of butter and cheese is rapidly increasing, the Swiss- and French families occupying themselves therein. The stock comprised — Cows and oxen, . . . . 3,908 Horses, 786 Sheep, 26 Swine, .... 270 Hens, . . . 3,000 Fruit trees. .... 83,753 The Santa Fe Government is always willing to extend the concession for any new settlers that may offer, and the alternate lots belonging to the concessionaires are sold at reasonable prices, the preference being given to the colonists. The colon)' has easy communication in all seasons Avith San Jeronimo, Esperanza, and the port of Coronda. Steam traffic is about to be established betAveen Santa Fe and Coronda ; but if the steamers Avould call at Maciel this Avould be only four and a half leagues from the colony. Wheat, 60,000 cwt. Battel Indian corn, 20,000 do. Eggs, Oats, 5,000 do. Fowl, Vegetables, 7,000 do. PERKms' REPORT ON THE COLONIES. 23 The gross returns .of produce sent into Santa Fe, in 1865, by the three colonies, were — i cheese, 3,000 cwt. 200,000 doz. ift)t stated. The butter was valued at =£8,000 sterling, the eggs at £12,000, and the cheese at an equally high figure. Meantime, the produce of the colonies increases every year in a wonderful manner, and the value of their lan(fe has been enhanced fully 25 percent, by the opening of the Rosario and €ordoba Railway. Mr. Perkins, formerly editor of the Ferro-Carril of Rosario, published a Taluable and interesting work in Spanish and English on this subject. At the invitation of Governor Cullen he started from Rosario, in November, 1863, to make a tour of the colonies, and his narrative bears the marks of truth. At Lake Guadalupe, close to Santa Fe, he visited the fish oil factory, where he estimates 5,000 barrels of oil may be produced annually, without seriously reducing the fish, which are sold at one real (6(/.) per arroba (25U). Here also is a small colony of wealthy Germans, who preferred purchasing this site to taking the free Government lands. In company with M. Henri, Mr. Perkins set out for the Esperanza Colony, distant twenty miles from the capital of the province. This was the first of all the colonies, and established by D. Aaron Castellanos. The settlers were at first rather unfortunate, being mostlv iunorant and indigent people ; but patience and experience have aided them, and the colony is now nourishing. There are — says Mr. Perkins — 345 families, making up a population of 756 Franco-Swiss and 805 Germans, of whom two-thirds are Roman Catholics, and one-third Protestants. The colony is a parallellogram of thirty-two square miles, divided into concessions of eighty acres each : the whole is bisected by a common for grazing, 400 yards broad and six miles long, the Germans being on one side, and the Franco-Swiss on the other. There are over 9,000 acres under crops, the amount sown being estimated as follows :— wheat, 3,150 bushels; barley, 250 ; Indian corn, 35,000 ; beans and peas, a little ; potatoes, none. The stock comprises — 1,569 horses, 396 oxen, 2,305 cows, 3,700 calves, 500 sheep, and 600 pigs. The plaza is well built, containing a Catholic chapel, and a Protestant one in construction, besides other edifices and three schools ; but tlie latter are badly attended, the children being made to work. 24 AGRICULTURAL COLONIES. Two American gentlemen named Evans and Shatter, lately settled in the colony, and brought reaping and threshing machines,, and other American improvements, into general use : one of these machines can grain 200 quintals per day. The woods being fifteen miles off, few of the concessions are fenced in, and some are so with wire. There are one ■vineyard and several gardens. The crops for this year^ — (1863) — are valued at gl 15,000 s. Cheese, butter, eggs, foAvls, and vegetables are raised ; but the supply would be much greater if cheap transport could be procured. One family has an income of §400 s. from butter alone, which they sell at 6(L to 9fZ. per 'ft, the same being worth 2s. in Rosario and 35. in Buenos Ayres. The annual produce in eggs is 160,000 dozen. There are two wind-mills, and several water-mills. The people live simply but substantially, consuming little animal food. Every family has a two-horse four-wheeled waggon, and some have two or more. There is a trifling disagreement in the colony about mixed marriages. It is remarked that the Franco-Swiss have thrived better than the Germans. The San Jeronimo Colony was founded so late as 1862, by a number of Swiss from the Canton of Valais, each of whom brought some money ; from £80 to £800 sterling. They paid all their own expenses, and only received from Government the usual land grant of eighty acres per family. The colony covers 9,000 acres, occupied by eighty-five families, counting 462 souls : of these, one half are new arrivals, and have as yet no wheat crops. Inhere are sown 284 bushels of wheat, and a good deal of barley. The people are sober and industrious, good Catholics, moral and respectful, and superior to those of Esperanza. They have already a fine church, built by subscription of 5,000 bricks each, and several good brick houses. Each family has about twenty cows and horses, but no sheep. They make excellent butter and cheese, the latter fetching §12 per cwt. The colonists pay the expenses of an agent, who goes backwards and forwards to Switzerland, bringing out new families for the colpny. A man formerly working at the Esperanza as farm-servant, has settled here, and is now worth £1,000. San Jeronimo is half way between Esperanza and San Carlos, and Mr. Perkins gives it the preference of all. The San Carlos Colony was founded in May 1859, by the commercial house of Messrs. Beck and Herzhog of Basle, assisted by a company, which purchased some of the shares and advanced the capital. The emigrants were of a lower order, like those of Esperanza, and all their expenses, maintenance, implements, stock, seeds, &c., were most liberally supplied and paid for by the company. Each family got a free passage, 160 acres THE SAN CARLOS COLO:!iY. 25 of land, horses, cows, &c., on condition of paying to the company every year (for five years) one-third of their crops, cultivating sixteen acres the first year, and so on. The half of each lot, I.e., 40 acres, is set apart for grazing, and after the fift!i year this remains the property of the company, the other half passing in fee to the settler. The colony covers thirty- seven square miles, or 26,000 acres, in 165 double lots, and is situate midway from Coronda to Santa Fe, and three leagues south of San Jeronimo. The population is 556 souls, in 100 families, of whom one-half are Protestants. • All bear an excellent character, except two or three drunkards. In the year 1862 there were nine deaths and thirty-two births. The colony is most prosperous and healthful. A SayIss named Goetchi landed in 1859, owing the company §500, and he has now paid all, and is worth £1,000 sterling : others sliow similar good fortune, the sheer fruit of industry. The stock amounts to — 2,531 horned cattle, 649 horses, 265 pigs. The company, on its own account, took up 800 sheep from Buenos Ayres in 1860, lost 200 after arrival, and still counted 1,600 in 1863. The wheat crop in 1863 yielded 37,000 bushels; the maize, barley, &c., is estimated at 8,000 quintals. There are public offices, church, model farm, gardens, and peach plantations. Mr, Perkins advises the adoption of traction engines for transport, and estimates the aggregate annual produce of the colonies as follows : — Wheat, 56,000 cwt. ; maize, 15,000; barley, 5,000; vegetables, 2,000 ; butter, 800 cwt. ; eggs, 1,000 cwt. ; cheese, 2,000 ; various, 5,000— total, 86,800 cwt. Respecting the San Carlos colony, we have some interesting particulars in the report of M. Jacques Stelzer, Justice of the Peace :• — wAmong the most comfortable families I may mention that of Sigel, ■with its handsome house on the right of the high. road. This family is of German origin, and arrived in 1859: it counts 7 persons, the youngest 12 years of age. Mr. Sigel is a laborious and intelligent man, assisted by his children, who are already able to guide the plough : from the beginning he has had good crops, especially that of 1866, when grain fetched 12 and even 16 dollars per «fanega.» In that jear he was enabled to pay off all he owed to the Company, and has thus been free of the 18 per cent. Tvhich less fortunate colonists still have to pay. Moreover he wrought at his trade of Avheelwright, Avhich gives him a good revenue. The Sigel family now owns 94 horned cattle, 21 horses, and 50 hens, besides laying down this year 14 «almudes)) of wheat, 50 acres of maize, and planting 5,000 fruit-trees. The Sigel concession is the best in the colony. «The Taverna family, comprising Michael Taverna, his wife, and 26 AGRICULTURAL COLONIES. 4 little children, the eldest 12 and the youngest 14 months old, and a partner named John Bonetti. This family owes its prosperity to the experi- ence of Taverna, the order and frugality of his wife, and the constant and careful labor of Bonetti: they arrived in 1859, and now possess a fine brick house, 40 head of horned cattle, 12 horses, 14 pigs, and 50 hens, besides a farm of 60 «almudes)) of wheat, 45 acres of maize and vegetables, and 2,000 fruit-trees. ((The Haemmerly family, of Swiss origin, arrived in 1859; at first comprised Albert Haemmerly, his wife, three sons, and two daughters, all of an age to work : the wife died in 18G2, and all the children have got married and purchased concessions for themselves, except the youngest son, who has remained with his father. Haemmerly has a neat house, 60 head of horned cattla, 20 horses, 4 pigs, 40 hens, besides cultivating 35 ((almudesw of wheat, 25 acres of maize, and 3,000 fruit-trees. ((The Beuteman family, Swiss-Geri]|ans, is composed of 9 members, including 7 children from 2 to 18 years of age: the concession is surrounded with poplars, paradise, and some 4,000 fruit-trees. This family owns 84 head of horned cattle, 10 horses, 1 pig, and 100 poultry, besides a farm of 65 ((almudesw of Avheat and 45 acres of maize and vegetables. ((The Beale family, of Italian origin, counts II members, with a fine house and out-offices, 60 horned cattle, 12 horses, 13 pigs, 60 poultry, and a farm of 40 ((almudesw of wheat and 80 acres of maize, but only a few fruit-trees. ((The Goetschy family, of SavIss origin, owns 83 horned cattle, 6 horses, 20 hens, and a farm of 48 ((almudes» of wheat, with 2,000 fruit-trees, and a fence of poplars and paradise trees. ((These are the families specially deserving honorable mention in my ofiicial report, without prejudice to the many other honest and hard- working people in the Colony. I have mentioned those most remarkable for their fine appearance, good houses, and superior cultivation, hoping you will permit me at another time to specify other families in prosperous condition, in all which details you may rely on my adhering strictly to the facts.)) The success of these colonies soon stimulated the Santa Fe Government to offer concessions in various parts of the Province for similar settlements, and Governor Orofio, during his term of office, labored strenuously to foment immigration. Unfortunately, the Paraguayan war checked the formation of new colonies, and the projects have either lapsed, or still EMIGRATION PROJECTS. 27 remain 'in statu quo.' Sor. Orouo, ^vhile Deputy to Congress, in July, 1864, introduced a bill as follows : — 1st. To emit £400,000 in G per cent. Bonds, negociable at 75 per cent. 2nd. To bring out 1 ,000 families of the farming class from Europe, to supply them Avith provisions, animals, and farming implements, during one year ; to build houses and a school for each colony. .3rd. Each immigrant family to comprise five individuals, and receive two oxen, one horse, three fanegas of wheat, two of potatoes, one of maize, two ploughs, and provisions for twelve months. Each family to get a grant of twenty-four cuadras (100 acrQs) of land for ever, and this as well as all produce to be free of taxes for twenty years. 4th. After four years the colonists to begin to re-imburse these expenses, paying to Government one-fifth of the amount until satisfied. The project was thrown out by Congress, but about the same time the Santa Fe Legislature, made a grant of 200 square leagues to a German Com- pany, which assumed the name of «The Argentine Land and Emigration Co., Limited,)) and published the following prospectus : — «The capital of the present company is £500,000, and the company is to secure the land grant made by Government, by sending out ten thousand families to form agricultural colonies within the period of ten years. «The lands granted by Government to the concessionaires are to be situated on the Parana, and Salado, theii* exact locality to be fixed by the company's surveyor. «The Government agrees to convey, on the arrival of every 200 families, six square leagues. <(The colonists are to be Germans and Irishmen. «The Government makes a free grant of 200 square leagues of land, of which 106^ leagues are to be distributed among the immigrants, and the balance, 193f leagues, becomes the free property of the company.)) jN'othiug has since been heard of the company, but it is possible that on the conclusion of the war the project may be revived. In September 18G6, a concession was given to Sor. Calvari for the intro- duction of a number of Italians to colonize the Gran Chaco. Sundry German and French enterprises of the same kind also sprung up, of wMcli we shall speak more fully in treating of the Gran Chaco. There is at present a project to establish a colony at the Guardia Esquina, situate on the Rio Tercero : this river may be made navigable, and the colony will be within easy reach of the Rosario and Cordoba railway. Another newly-projected colony, in the neigliborhood of the town of San Jose, has received the name of «San Josede la Esquina,)) where eighty 28 AGRICULTURAL COLONIES. acres of land will be given to any person, on the sole condition of its being cultivated, and of their bringing a couple of oxen, a pair of horses, and the necessary agricultural implements. An extra inducement to settlers is held out by a promise of four pounds of meat daily, to be given gratuitously to each family during the first year. The town of San Jose, near the banks of the Parana, has about 400 inhabitants. The colonists must fence in their lots, make a well, and plant fifty trees: for five years they will be exempt from all taxes. The distribution of the lands will be made by the following committee :r— Messrs. Aaron Castellanos, Pedro Ramayo, Colonel Rodriguez, Joaquin Lejarza, Santiago Recafio, Nicolas Sotomayor, arid Francisco Oliva. EiSTRE-RIOS. General Urquiza signalized his administration no less by his opening the rivers to the flags of all nations, than by his efforts for immigration. The province of Entre-Rios has two colonies, that of San Jose being.the largest in the River Plate. San Jose Colomj stands 7 leagues north of the town of Concepcion, on the banks of the Uruguay: it has a convenient port, of safe anchorage? and the town which is springing up there is to be called after the discoverer of the New World. The colony counts 200 Swiss, 125 French, 54 Italian, and 15 German families, comprising 2280 persons. The returns for 1863, were — 11.3 births, 33 deaths, 11 marriages. The professions of the colonists, were — 22 shop-keepers, 16 masons, 17 carpenters, 7 shoemakers, 6 tailors, 6 blacksmiths, 4 tinsmiths, 5 mechanics, 1 gunsmith, 1 boiler- maker, 1 sawyer, 2 mills, I steam-mill, 1 oil-press. The colony boasts a church, a school, and 257 brick houses, valued at £26,000 sterling : there is also a church in construction on the site of the intended toAvn. The concessions are 16 cuadras (70 acres) each. Uncultivated lots are sold at ^10 (30s.) the cuadra, the purchaser being charged IS per cent, interest per annum till the amount be discharged. There are 3,200 cuadras of land occupied, and 1 ,600 under cultivation ; fruit-trees 1 12,000. Tiie average annual yield is — Wheat and oats, 30, 1 50 fanegas. Indian corn, 15,000 do. Potatoes, .... 120 tons. Mani, 180 do. Tobacco, .... 5 tons. Sweet potatoes, 300 do. Rutter, 120 do. Eggs, 1 70,000 doz. Besides cheese, melons, peas, beans, &c., in abundance. COLO:VIES OF EXTRE RIOS. 29 The crops of 1865 were so prolific that wheat gave from 35 to 40 fold, barley 30 to 50, and Indian corn three to four hundred fold. The returns of stock were — Cows and oxen, 6,S60 ; Hens, 21,500 Horses, 1,141 i Beehives, 170 Swine, 629 I A «cuadra)) of mani will give a yield of 3^ tons, and the oil extracted from this nut is of excellent quality : hence this is a lucrative article. Ricino is a plant that grows in abundance almost w ithout cultivation ; it is now extensively planted, both for the raising of silk- worms and for the oil it contains ; a cuadra will give two to three tons. The cultivation of cotton w as tried, but without success ; the great danger is that of drought, and if the irrigation be improved this industry will be again tried : as much as 25'tt of cotton have been got from a single plant Avell-watered. The tobacco crop is highly satisfactory, w hile requiring much care : a «cuadra» gives, sometimes, a ton of very good tobacco. The milk, butter, and cheese of the colony are first-rate, and some of the colonists make X40 to o£60 sterling a year, out of these items, in supplying the towns of Coucepcion, Paysandii, &c. The colonists also find a ready market for their eggs, and the supply of honey promises, to be soon very considerable. The Colony of Villa Vrquiza is situate six leagues above the city of Parana, on the Parana river. The river bank here rises to a high hill. On ascending this hill we see a beautiful, undulating, country. The con- cessions are about 30 acres each, but there is no limit to the number that one man may own if he cultivate them. The houses are chiefly «ranchos,» though some better houses of brick, with azotea roofs, are already built. The chief produce is wheat. Every concession is fenced in, the forest affording the material ; sometimes many concessions form one single field of wheat. AVhen the year has been favorable the crop gives 20 to 25 bushels to the acre. It is reaped by machinery. Cotton has not done well, not for any defect in the soil or climate, but for the uncertainty of obtaining hands on the emergency, for picking. But for this, cotton would pay better than wheat. Land, cattle, and horses, are very low in price. Pasturage, a little way out from the Colony, is abundant. The colonists send to market in large quantities wheat, maize, potatoes, butter, and cheese. Mr. Forrest and3Ir. Russell have bought largely of these lands, and will reap this year some hundreds of acres of wheat. In the course of another year a large accession of immigrants is expected. 30 AGRICULTURAL COLOINIES. The official returns for 1865 are — ((Extent of concession, 6,700 acres: colonists, Swiss 20, Germans 32, French 8, Italians 5, and Belgians 6, families; in all comprising 355 persons, who occupy 232 chacra lots, and have plantations of peach, orange, plum, and fig trees. The colonists are made up of gardeners, blacksmiths, carpenters, masons, shoemakers, and small dealers. The total stock do«s not exceed 2,500 head. The annual crop averages 3,000 fanegas wheat, besides maize, potatoes, vegetables, cotton, and tobacco. The tobacco is superior to that of Paraguay ; it gave this year a fine crop, -which was readily sold at ISd. per %, wholesale. This industry is increasing.)) The American preceptor, Mr. Rau, gives the following report (1867) :— ((It is a farming colony of about 560 persons, of whom 100 are natives, 200 European Roman Catholics, and the remaing 260 are Protestants, chiefly Europeans. A few^ Americans are also settled here, and arrange- ments are made for the settlement of many more American families. The colony is in its infancy, and most of the farmers are poor. During the last few^ years some of the crops have not been good, and the first houses built by the immigrants have, in very few instances, given place to better ones. ((We have received from the local Government a free concession of a building lot, 200 ' varas' in front, and 200 ' varas' in depth, making about eight English acres. Tliis ground is finely situated. It is already fenced, and on it we have erected a small house, suflicient for a temporary residence for the Minister. A well has also been dug, in which abundance of good water has been found. AVe have a contract with a responsible party for the erection of the church, which will cost £300 sterling, and the edifice, when finished, will be occupied for a school also. The minister, being supported as such, gives his labours free as a teacher.)) The enterprise at Villa de Urquiza is one of the ((misiones)) under the charge of the Rev. W. Goodfellow, D.D., of this city, and from the society that he represents the colony receives help in all these projects. Besides the above colonies. General Urquiza talks of establishing another on that part of his lands lying between his palace of San Jose and the tow n of Concepciou, the settlement to be bisected by a railway, with German settlers on one side, and Irish on the other. BUENOS AYRES. The Siviss Colony of Baradero is about tw^o miles N.W. of the port of that name on the Parana, standing on high and uneven ground in a bend of the river bluffs, and commanding a fine prospect. The Arrecifes river, which FORTITNATE SETTLERS AT BARADEHO. 31 abounds in fish, washes one side of the concession, giving T\ater at all seasons to the cattle ; as the stream is only sixty feet wide there is easy passage to a beautiful island which has excellent pastures even in the greatest drought. This island is public property, and measures ten leagues by three. In 1856 the first Swiss colonists arrived, and some of these hard-working men (according to the official report before Government) have been able to make as much as £800 to £1 ,000 sterling. They are intelligent gardeners, and the soil is so productive that they have raised sweet potatoes weighing as much as a pound and a-half each, while the melons, cabbages, and other vegetables are equally large, and grow in abundance. Potatoes constitute the most profitable of their crops. Some experiments in tobacco turned out so well that the growers were awarded a silver medal at the Agricultural Exhibition of Buenos Ayres in 1856. Mani and linseed have given good results, the first surprisingly so ; still, the colonists find potatoes to need less care, and this is their great staple, yielding two crops a year; they also raise sweet potatoes, maize, wheat, and barley. Trees come on admirably, especially peaches, and so favored is the soil of the locality that even palm trees (which are always found in hotter latitudes) are readily acclimatized. Some of the settlers make butter and cheese, for which there is a constant market, either at Baradero or San Pedro ; the latter port is six miles North of the colony. The boatmen of the coasting trade are also good customers of the colonists, buying their produce to take down to Buenos Ayres or elsewhere. The colonists know that the greater their produce the readier market they find. The Municipality of Baradero provide new comers with board and lodging till putting them in possession of their lots. Every able-bodied man receives a lot, 200 varas on each side, about eight acres in extent, on condition of ditching it round, planting a few trees, making himself a hut or (crancho,)) and cultivating the ground within a year; if a settler has grown-up sons, each of them may have a similar lot, merely applying to the Municipality for same. The colony counts 873 souls. Germans, 45 Men, 300 Swiss, .... . . . 260 Women, 293 French, . 67 Children, 280 Italians, 119 Catholics, . . . 692 Spaniards, 37 Protestants, 181 Argentines, . . . 345 The concession maybe put down at 10,000 acres, of which one-half is already allotted : there are 18 chacra lots of 12 acres, and 374 of eight 32 AGRICULTURAL COLONIES. acres, besides 236 garden lots of two acres each ; all these are fenced in with wood and wire, and have a ditch. The price is 800 paper dollars per cuadra (30s. per acre), or the rent ^90 (15s.) per chacra lot of eight acres, per annum. The colony has a school, 36 azotea houses, and 285 thatched ranchos ; the plantations comprise 63,300 fruit-trees. There are 2 mills, 6 dairies, 3 masons, 3 carpenters, 2 blacksmiths. The crops for 1864 were — Wheat, . . 1,091 fan. Peas, 50 tons. Barley, .. 1,000 do. Beans, 30 do. Maize, . . 8,104 do. Butter, 50 cwt. Potatoes, 868 tons. Cheese, 75 do. Sweet potatoes, . . 17 do. p.rrrrc .... 19 500 doz. The farming-stock comprises — 750 cows, 9,000 sheep, 100 swine, 1,050 horses, 2,990 hens. The practical proof of the success of this colony is given in a personal detail of the present condition of many of its members. Some of these poor, but persevering people, on their arrival had a little money, which they invested in cows, horses, bullocks, and fowl. For the first year, they lived in miserable mud ranchos, earning a subsistence by selling eggs and butter, and often having no meat to eat but biscacha flesh. The earliest comers were French-Swiss ; but the greater number of those who arrived from 1858 to 1861 were. German-Swiss. Out of the list of those given by Sefior Pifiero — to the number of 14 — we select a few examples: — John Tenoud, French-Swiss, a farmer m his native land, of the Roman Catholic religion, and 49 years of age on his arrival here, with eleven in family, possesses now a capital of 300,000 paper dollars, the greater part of which is put to interest or laid out in sheep. James Cardineaux, French-Swiss, Roman Catholic, farmer in his own country, 30 years of age on his arrival, with a family of six persons, has now a capital, of 150,000 paper dollars placed at interest and invested in sheep. Amongst the second lot of eight families came Claudio Jamer, a French- man, who had kept a small wine and flour store in France, 45 years old on his arrival, with one grown-up son, holds to-day a mill, worked by mules, in which he has invested 43,000 paper dollars, and is finishing the erection of a wind-mill, brought by himself during the past year from France. This mill cost 25,000 paper dollars ; he has two plots of farm- ground ; a house with one room of azotea roof, and two of straw. He is not in possession of money, but is entirely free from debt. THE SWISS AT BAR-IDERO. 33 Here comes a list of German-Swiss, many of whom were obliged to hire themselves out as labourers on their arrival. But see what German perseverance does : — John Schar, a German-Swiss, a brickmaker in his own country, a Protestant, 37 years of age, self and wife being his only family, exhausted his funds on reaching here, as did all hereafter mentioned, has now a capital of 100,000 paper dollars; one half lent out at interest, and the other half in the house, or invested in draught cattle. Felix Schaer, a German Swiss, day labourer in his own country, a Protestant, 28 years of age on his arrival, Avith four in family, has now a capital of 100,000 paper dollars ; two-thirds at interest, and the remainder invested in implements and cattle. iSicholas Hequi, German-Swiss, a butcher in his country, a Protestant, 38 years old on his arrival, his* wife and himself constituting his whole family, is actually in possession of 60,000 paper dollars, part of which is at interest, and the rest invested in an azotea house, labourers' tools, and cattle. The names of Andrew Schaes, a boy only 19 years old on his arrival, and now possessed of 20,000 paper dollars and a house ; of Fernando Schachbaum with 40,000 paper dollars ; of Alexiander Homber with 30,000 ; and Jose Matting 50,000, further prove what can be done by agriculturists in the Argentine Republic. The Municipality of San Pedro (3 leagues above Baradero) offer 30 chacra lots of 6 cuadras (25 acres each) for immigrants, on the following terms. The lots will be either sold at §800 per cuadra (30s. per acre), or rented at §100 or 16s. The tenant or purchaser must pay for survey, &c., the sum of $150 (24s.) There is also a suitable tract of land, 13,000 varas by 4,300, comprising about 10,000 acres, which may be bought in lots from the owner (a private party) for chacra cultivation. 34 COLOSIZATION OF THE CHACO. CHAP. Y. COLONIZATION OF THE CHACO. The Gran Chaco comprises an immense territory, for the most part unex- plored, lying between Paraguay, La Plata, and Bolivia. Tlie Argentine Republic claims all that part bounded on the North by the Rio Vermejo and on the S.W. by the Salado, comprising a superficies of 250,000 square miles. The soil and climate are equal to those of the most favored countries, and the natural features are, vast plains of luxuriant pasture, thick forests of various useful timbers, and numerous rivers and lagoons : Avith such facilities for irrigation, it would be easy to raise any quantity of maize, cotton, tobacco, sugar-cane, and rice. In the beginning of the 18th century, thanks to the efforts of the Jesuit missionaries, several flourishing settlements were springing upj whose ruined remains are still seen near San Javier, the Vermejo, and elsewhere ; but at present the interior of the Chaco is entirely abandoned to roving Indians and beasts of prey. After the expulsion of the Jesuits (1767) the Indians returned to a savage life, and so late as 1860 the Tobas tribe murdered some Italian Franciscan missionaries sent to convert them. Only five small « reductions)) of tame Indians still remain, according to the report of Padre Rossi, prefect of missions; viz. — Men. Women. Santa Rosa, 220 258 Cayastcl, 175 186 San Javier, 194 205 San Pedro, 132 142 SanGeronimo, 200 182 Children. Total .. 353 831 214 575 . . 20i . . 603 281 f ^ ■* OiiO 182 .. 564 THE VARIOUS IT^DLO TRIBES. 35' In February 1863, the Argentine Government commissioned Mr. P. C. Bliss to make a journey through the Chaco, and this gentleman reported five Indian nations, distinct in language, but alike in habits and physical appearance : the Mocovis and Abipones frequent the frontiers of Santiago del Estero and Santa Fe, while the Tobas, Ocoles, and Matacos, inhabit the valleys of the Yermejo and Pilcomayo. The three last tribes are said to number 20,000 souls. The Matacos are very industrious, being the best peons on the frontier estaucias of Salta, and in the sugar-fields of Salta and Jujuy. During much of the year the Indians live on the fruit of the algarroba and the «yuchan» or palo-boracho ; fish also supplies them Tvith food. They have no agriculture or farming implements. Formerly most of the tribes had cattle and sheep, but the animals seem to have been carried off by a pestilence. The Indians suffer great mortality from want of clothing and proper habitations : they are very superstitious, have a great fear of the Gualiche (or evil spirit), and some confused idea of a future life. Their barter trade is very limited : they sometimes bring to the frontier-settlements a few skins of pumas, jaguars, foxes, otters, &c. but they collect wild honey in considerable quantities, as also ostrich feathers and the resin of «palo-santo.)) The Matacos and Ocoles could easily be domesticated, if they were furnished with farming implements, seeds, and a few head of cattle. In May 1864 an expedition was got up by Government, to open up a highway through the Chaco, from Corrientes to Santiago del Estero, the distance being set down at 120 to 140 leagues. Sr. Arce, the Vermejo navigator, took a lively interest in the enterprise, and General Ferre marked out the road on a map. Passing through the «obrages)) or wood- cutting establishments in the Chaco, opposite Corrientes city, the route plunged into Indian tei ritory, broken by numerous woods and marshes. Here the want of water and provisions might constitute a greater difficulty than any to be feared from the Indians. Some caciques signed a treaty with the >'ational commissioner, agreeing to provide these necessaries at various points along the route. The chief profit to be derived from this new highway was that a great export trade of mules and horses would be opened for Corrientes with the Northern provinces. The report of the officer commanding the expedition was as follows : — « Bracho Yiejo, May 22, 1864. ((Dear Sir, «By the date of this letter you will perceive that notwithstanding alj the sufferings we have experienced in this painful journey across the Chaco, I, as well as my companion, Don Adolfo Reyes, am arrived safely at d2 36 COLONIZATION OF THE CHACO. our destination : the ways and means would form a very long subject for a letter, and I consequently reserve the details until my return. <(The few provisions that we carried were of an inferior description, and had an unfavourable influence on our health, but like true Germans we have already forgotten our past sufferings and laugh at them in the houses of the engineers, Messrs. William H. Cock and Auguste Lemelle, who have received us as if we had been old friends. We are now lodging in the house of the Salado Navigation Company. Major Martinez is rather ill in the Bracho encampment, with th« Indians w ho accompanied us, Avhose behaviour has been very bad. «0n the 1st of May an Indian ran away, back to Corrientes, with one of the horses. On the 17th another Indian and a boy ran away, stealing our beef and two of the best horses. «0n the 14th the Cacique Dachilique, with his brother, ran away, stealing some of our horses and the only hatchet we had with us. We lost our way during the night and passed 35 hours without water. The Cacique was familiar with the locality and could have found Avater, but .seeing that the majority of our horses were tired, he separated from us, to take the horses to his «tolderia.)) He is the same who, three years back, murdered the Franciscan friar at 3Iatara, and he communicated this fact to the Cacique Leoncito, adding that he accompanied us, merely to learn the state of the roads and cattle, so that he might be better enabled to carry on his depredations against the Province of Santiago. Such are the ((trustworthy agentsw given to us by General Ferre. ((On the 1 4th of May, at last, we came to the River Salado, and established ourselves in the 'canton Tostada,' now abandoned. Here we found the fine and well constructed ((azoteaw houses, erected by orders of our friend Dr., Archer, of which we have taken a plan and sketch to present to you on our return. «The road that we have travelled over is 175 leagues, and we are noAV awaiting instructions and horses from the Governor of Santiago. The road can be made transitable for cargo with very little expense. ((I believe that we will start for Santiago on the 26th, passing by Salavina, and from thence I will write further. I do not know yet Avheu and how we shall return to Corrientes, for this depends upon the measures taken by the Government of Santiago. «Fkancls Pankoini, ((Lieutenant Gommaudiug.» JOUR]SEY ACROSS THE CHA.CO. 37 An intelligent Indian interpreter and traveller, named Felipe Saravia, TV ho had previously crossed the Chaco, made a journey in January 1865, with complete success, and his diary from Esquina Grande to Corrientes is as follows : — « January 21st. Left Colony Hi vada via, crossed to the right bank of the Vermejo, following the stream (three leagues) as far as Selicano : good water, course S.E and E. «22nd. Started at sunrise, and reached Santa Rosa by noon (four leagues) : course E. Pushed on (three leagues) to Canada Angosta, course S.E., roads good. «2.3rd. Dined at Poso Escondido (five leagues): good water, road middling, course E. At one part we had to hew a passage of half a league. Advancing three leagues before nightfall we encamped near a large lake which I called Selicano Muerto : road very bad, course S.E. ey have a large supply, and their provisions bread, beans, rice, coffee, tea, and sugar, for, save the horses, Avorking oxen, and an odd milch cow, they haAe no other animals. «Houses are going up : the colony, which consists of men of every trade, are ftost enthusiastic, determined to hold their position, and have solicited Government for a further grant of tAventy leagues. The rifles of the colony, in quantity and quality, are beyond my description. We met the Coman- daute of San Javier, Don Antonio Alsogaray, Avho has large fields of Avheat, maize, and alfalfa : his services to the colony are innumerable. We were also Avaited on by Custodio, the cacique, who expressed his pleasure at our arrival, regretted that most of his Indians Avere on a hunting expedition, that if Ave came to trade, until their return Ave should find almost nothing, as every skin had been purchased by the three traders or store-keepers of the town — Don Benjamin Escudero, an Entre Riano ; Don Beltran Duran, . a Frenchman; and Don Lucas Caballo, a Spaniard, the Tattersal of San Javier.)) Fray Emitivio, the cura, is an Italian, about 35 years of age, very zealous in his calling and disinterested. 48 coLONizATio:^ of the chaco. A writer in the Tiempo of Santa Fe says — «No less than one hundred years ago, under the gentle sway of tlie Jesuits, these very plains were waving with maize, corn, and cotton, flanked by a large quinla ,well stocked with fruit trees and vegetables ; besides troops of carts, the Jesuits had a fleet of small river craft to convey their produce to this market, and these vessels were made in their OAvn dockyard and by their own ship- wrights and blacksmiths. In 1767 the mission had 23,000 head of horned cattle, 3,850 sheep, 3,000 horses and mares, and 380 mules.)) The progress of the colony could not better be described tlian in the annexed letters, dated January, 1867 :■ — ((Since we have been here we are doing well ; our crops are excellent, all except our early corn, that Avas sown in a hurry and the land only ploughed once. The regular crop, put in with greater care, is doing very well. I have a fine garden, from which I have just picked a squash from Californian. seed that measures sixty -two inches in circumference, and I have as fine water-melons, cucumbers, tomatoes, and other j^arden stuff as you would like to see. 1 have thirty head of cattle — cows and oxen. We have planted 150 acres of corn, and have done some ploughing for next season, which is not bad, considering we had such a late start. The Indians have not troubled us at all, in fact we have not seen one yet. The. tame Indians of San Javier have not meddled with us either ; if they were to do so we would take their whole town. The high water did not become visible to us. It would require a further rise of seven feet to overflow the bottom lands. There 'is excellent feed for the cattle all over these lands. The ofiBcers from the Santa Fe Government gave us a visit ; they came up to establish a new line of forts. They were very well pleased witlv our crop. What we want here are our own country seeds, and Americans to put them in the ground. I have six rows of cotton growing, and it is as promising as any I ever saAv in my life in the Southern States. I planted the seeds at different epochs, so as to ascertain the best date for planting. In a few days it will be in full bloom. — A. McLean.)) Mr. Moore, writes : — ((Myself and two sons have planted forty acres of corn, and about ten in garden stuff, and everything looks magnificent. My water -melons are as fine as any I ever saw, and my pumpkins, only half grown, weigh from 25 to, 30 lbs. The corn, although receiving no culti- vation, is very fine. Everything is looking so thrifty, tliat I am thoroughly convinced that I can raise as good crops here as in any part of the world. Our seeds have run out, but as soon as I can get a supply from home all will be well.)) THE CALIFORNIA COLOSY. 49 Another letter, a year later (January 1868), continues to report everything most favorably — «The Cahfornia Colony has proved a perfect success so far. Everything that has been planted has thriven well, equal to the best parts of California. The wheat crop has been harvested, and is splendid. The corn is in roasting ear, and is good for any country. Irish potatoes, garden stuff of all kinds, cabbages particularly, melons, pumpkins, &c., I consider very superior. The young orchards are doing finely. The only thing which has failed has been the sweet potatoes. There is a kind of bug (called in North America the lady bug), which destroys the vines. Everything that has been planted has done well. The live stock is equally successful. Cattle, horses, and hogs have done, and are doing well. The colony has never been disturbed by the Indians, and every family which arrives lessens the probability of its being so. The colonists have not lost an animal by Indians or tigers. They have lost a great deal of wheat by tlie rainy weather, as they have no threshing machine, and had to tramp it out with horses. Next season they will be provided with the best Yankee machi- nery. If they had had the most ordinary reapers, and threshed, they would not have lost a grain this year. They are preparing to sow a much larger crop this fall. The land in this section is level, but 30 feet above the low lands or 'bottom' of the Parand. The soil is a black loam about three feet deep, and resting on yellow clay. The grass and herbage grow with great luxuriance at all seasons. The grass is of the same quality as the * merquite ' grass of Texas, and I consider it equal in all respects to that. The ' paja,' or tall jungle grass, grows only on the Parana bottom or low land, which is at this point 18 miles wide, and intersected with numerous 'lagoons' and lakes. The cattle range in it to a sliort distance. As for land, there is certainly plenty of it. From this colony northward there is not a house for twelve hundred miles, and the vacant public domain stretches away for hundreds of leagues north and west. There is everywhere an abundance of good fresh water, and plenty of wood, both for fencing and firewood. We make it answer for building our cabins ; but it is short and crooked for that purpose. For picket fencing and firewood it has no superior, and there is plenty of it and well distributed. No clearing is required, as the country is prairie, with skirts or ranges of timber extending through it. The timber improves in quality as far up the country as I have been, which is about fifty miles. Tlie climate is healthy : there has been no sickness among the settlers. We have had more rain than we needed this summer. As to the price of land, I suppose the best land liere can be bought for §50 s. per acre, and from that down to nothing, and the seed 50 COLONIZATION OF THE CHACO. thrown in. For if any new comer should be too poor to buy, he would have land given hira to his satisfaction. AVliat is most wanted now is settlers, American or English, equipped for settling in the woods, and armed to defend themselves, as the colony looks to itself for protection. We have lately had three English families from Buenos Ayres, and two single men from California. If you see any American, English, Scotch, or Irish families, or single men who expect to engage in agriculture, I have no hesitation in saying that this is the best part of the Argentine Republic. For live stock the country is as good as could be desired, but for the present no large number of horses or cattle would be advisable. I say for the present, but the colonists expect to bring large droves next spring. The colony is much in need of a blacksmith's shop. A good smithy equipped for farm work, is a desideratum, particularly an American, or one who has worked in North America. Persons moving up to the colony at present, should come to the town of La Paz, in Entre Eios, which is on the Parana River, and there charter a boat to San Javier. The charter of a boat from La Paz to this place, San Javier, would be about £5 sterling. The passage to La Paz from Buenos Ayres is gI8 s. I omitted to mention that the ' mosquitos ' are bad at present, though there were none this summer until lately. I deem it superfluous to say that we have game in abundance, and lish in fabulous quantities. Cotton grows well, and also hemp and tobacco. Please forward any letters which may arrive for me to the same address : Colonia California, San Javier, Santa Fe.)) Mr. Perkins of Rosario, in April 1868, writes as follows : — «One of the Americans from the Calif ornian Colony is down here. He has informed the Secretary of the Immigration Commission that the crops have been excellent, and the people are happy and contented. The Welshmen and their families, from Chupat, under Mr. Davies, are settled now amongst the Americans, and have brought up the number of the colony to about forty individuals. The new , French Colony, two leagues this side of San Javier, has now fifteen families.)) At the close of 1868 we have the following accounts : — «The news from the North American Colony is cheering. Their wheat crops are splendid, and the Tiempo of Santa Fe says that relatively this colony will give double the products that any of the others will, on account of the intelligence and industry of the colonists. A sample of their wheat sent doAvn to Santa Fe was pronounced the first in the province. The colonists have received several additions to their number from California. It seems the Govern- ment considers the contract with Messrs. Wilcken and Vernet cancelled, as part of tliis concession has been given to the Welslunen, another part THE RIVADAMA COLO:!«Y. 51 sold to 31r. Grognet, and another to air. Laprade, both gentlemen of Eosario. A quantity of the lands of El Rey has also been solicited by purchasers.)) RIVADAVIA C0L03VY. This colony is situate on the]N\E. bank of the Rio Vermejo, about four leaf^ues below Esquina Grande, in the Province of Salta, up to which point there are no impediments to navigation. It is bounded on the north by the grant belonging to the missionary fathers, on the south and east by the Arroyo Tenco, and on the west by the Rio Vermejo. It covers a superficies of 200 square leagues (1,300,000 acres), extending six leagues in breadth from N.W. to S.E., and forty in length. The soil is mostly alluvial, being periodically inundated by the Vermejo. The colony -was established in December 1862, and in January 1864, it counted 54 families, with an aggregate of 550 souls. Since then, numerous «suertes)) have been allotted to new settlers, and the colony is now much larger. Each family receives for ever a donation of a asuertew of estancia, 2,500 yards front, by the same depth (about 1,200 acres), between the rivers Vermejo and Tenco, or double that area if the lands have not frontage on the above rivers ; also a building lot, 15 yards by 60, on the site of the proposed town; and a chacra of four acres for cultivation. The chief industry of the colony is in horned cattle, the stock amounting to 20,000 head. The soil is fertile, and large plantations have been made of cotton and tobacco ; but at present the difficulty of transport seems insuperable. President Mitre's Government was authorized by Congress to expend all necessary sums for the construc- tion of a road from Corrientes to Esquina Grande : the project has been allowed to fall into complete oblivion ; but the road, when made, will pass through the colony and meet the high road of the northern provinces somewhere on the frontier of Salta and Tucuman. Mr. Bliss speaks of his ■visit to the colony in July 1863, as follows : — <(The long delay of our expedition had given rise to serious fears for our safety, and our arrival at the colony of Rivadavia was hailed with the greatest demonstrations of joy. When the expedition left Buenos Ayres, its supposed destination was the port of Esquina Grande, four leagues above the colony of Rivadavia. The event proved that no one on board had any idea of the geographical and other changes which have taken place in that region within three or four years. Esquina Grande, so noted in all previous itineraries of voyages and explorations, does not now contain a single building of any description, and, in fact, does not now exist as a port. The river has, as in many other cases, changed its course, has dug a canal across s2 52 COLONIZATION OF THE CHACO. the peiiinsula, and has thus left the former Esquina Grande some distanee inland ! The port thus abandoned has, however, been more than replaced by the establishment, durmg the year 1862, of the new colony of Rivadavia. This colony is situated upon the northern bank of the Vermejo, four leagues below Esquina Grande, and has a grant from the Provincial Government of Salta of sixteen leagues of land upon the river and six leagues back. The colonists were mostly Bolivians of the poorer class, from the provinces of Tarija and Santa Cruz de la Sierra. This large grant of land was looked upon with a jealous eye by the estancieros of the frontier, who coveted that fine extent of territory for themselves. The Indians of the neighborhood were mostly employed as peons, either by the colonists or by the ^fronteristas,' and some of the latter stooped to the meanness and wickedness of prejudicing the Indians against the colonists, hoping thus to frighten them from their enterprise. With the arrival of our steamer the safety of the colony was thought to be secured, especially as three cannon from the old fort of San Fernando were brought to the colony at the same time.)) Mr. Bliss was five weeks making the overland journey from the colony to Buenos Ayres, via Bosario. The latest official report of the colony is only to January 1864. When the navigation of the Bio Yermejo becomes a fact, the colony will spring into great importance. PATAGOiMA, A FIELD FOR COLONISTS. 53 CHAP. yi. COLONIZATIOX OF PATAGONIA. Patagonia may be said to include all that vast territory lying between the Rio Negro (40 deg. S. Lat.) and the Straits of Magellan, and estimated to contain an area of 350,000 square miles. The climate is similar to that of England, and the soil fertile : hence the country is well suited for immigration, and various efforts have been made, within the last six years, for this purpose. In June 1863 the Government of Buenos Ayres made the following grant to Mr. Louis Bamberger : — 1. M. Louis Bamberger engages to bring out a German Colony, whose total number sliall be 10,000 families. 2. The Government of Buenos Ayres grants a free gift of public land in the following proportion : for every 100 families one square league, besides an equal quantity for the benefit of the concessionaire or joint stock company. 3. The Government will provide each family with farming implements, seeds, two milch cows, six heifers, a yoke of oxen, and twelve sheep. 4. The Government will support all the immigrants during six months after their arrival. The concession never came to anything, Mr. Bamberger failing to get up a joint-stock company. 54 COLONIZATION OF PATAGOKIA. In the following month (July 1863) the Argentine Government signed a concession for the establishment of a Welsh Colony at the Chupat, which was carried out two years later. In August 1863 a Frenchman, Dr. Brougnes, who had been connected with the French Colony in Corrientes, formed a project to convert the Indians into colonists, giving them land, seeds, &c., and the Cacique Baigorria promised him every co-operation. He also proposed introducing European settlers, to be scattered along the rivers Negro and Colorado, The scheme died in embryo. In 1863, 3Iessrs. Galvan, Aguirre, and Murga received a most advan- tageous concession from the Government of Buenos Ayres, viz. : — «Messrs. Galvan receive for each family a gift of 160 acres land, a bonus of ^12 s., and the loan 'of $160 or £32 sterling, to pay the necessary expenses. Messrs. Aguirre and Murga receive 1,600 acres for each family, in fee, but without any subvention in money. The concessionaires propose to pay the passage of the immigrants, providing each family, on arrival, with 300 sheep, six milch cows, one bull, four horses, and a large piece of land.)) As an immigration scheme it has never been carried out, but numbers of Englishmen have since settled on the lands of Aguirre and 3Iurga, some purchasing the land from them, others going into partnership with them in the care of sheep. In June 1864 General Paunero submitted an excellent project for a fixed line of frontier on the Rio Colorado, Avhich, but for the Paraguayan war, bade fair to be accepted by Government. The Bio Colorado rises in that part of the Andes contiguous to Mendoza, almost in direct line from Buenos Ayres, in 35 S. Lat,, and 69 W, Long, pursuing a winding course S.E. until it debouches into the Atlantic, a few miles below our settlement of Bahia Blanca, about 40 S. Lat. Paunero estimated its length at 197 leagues, say 600 miles, and proposed to erect a line of forts with small military picquets at certain distances, along its north bank. He required only 5000 men for so splendid an undertaking, instead of 13,000 troops of the Line and National Guards at present occupied in the straggling frontier service of these provinces. The advantages to be gained by this scheme Avere thus summed up : — 1st. An effective and uniform cordon of frontier posts. 2nd. The creation of an impassable barrier, which would prevent communication between the Indians of the Chaco and those of Patagonia. 3rd. The recovery of 20,000 square leagues (a territory three times as large as England) of the finest pasture lands. 4th. A saving of 60 per cent, in the expense of the present frontier forces. 5th. The total relief of civilians from military cox's EXPLORI>G EXPEDITION. 55 service. 6tb. The development of a new commercial artery by the navigation of the Rio Colorado. 7th. A safeguard for our sheepfarmers against the perils of drought, these men being formerly afraid to move their flocks towards the Indian territory. Moreover the lands adjacent to the Colorado might be made to produce wheat for the whole Republic, the freight to Bahia Blanca being easy, and therefore cheap. In September 1864 a German company with a proposed capital of three millions sterling sought a concession for the colonization of 30,000 square miles of tierritory between the rivers Colorado and Negro. The Company proposed to Government to introduce 20,000 European agricultural families Avithin five years, on condition of a cavalry force of 2,000 men, under Colonel 3Iachado, being placed for that period to defend the territory from the Indians. Each family was to receive free passage, a rancho, food for the first year, seeds and implements, one horse, two oxen, two cows, and 100 sheep. The emigrant would be required, in return, to sign bills for £200, payable in 40 yearly instalments. Each family was to receive 12 cuadras (50 acres) of land for tillage, and have the pasture lands of the colony in common with the rest. This enterprise shared the fate of those just mentioned. The Republic of Chile having always claimed a great portion of Patagonia, that Government commissioned Mr. Cox to explore the whole course of the Rio ^N'egro, as that gentleman held the conviction that fluvial communication existed between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. In 1859, making Port Montt (a German colony on the Pacific in S. Lat- 41.30} his starting point and base of operations, in company with a few determined companions, he passed the neck of the Cordillera at Mount Osorno, and reached the western shore of Lake Nahuel-huapi. But he had not calculated all the difficulties of the enterprise, and was obliged to desist and return to Valparaiso. The Government was pleased with his report, and the explorer only waited a favorable chance to carry out his design. On the 16th of December 1862, a complete expedition fully equipped by Government, and consisting of 18 persons under his command, again started from Port Montt, and reaching Lake Nahuel-huapi on >'ew-year's day 1863, undertook to cross the lake in a boat left there by Mr. Cox on his former journey. A steep hill on the eastern shore now barred their progress, but they resolutely cut their way through a virgin forest, climbed the perilous glaciers, and Mr. Cox was the first who arrived at the summit, and saw, to his infinite joy, the broad stream of the Rio Negro winding its xjourse eastward, till lost in the brown-colored Pampas of Patagonia. 56 COLONIZATION OF PATAGONIA. Having launched his boat in the Rio Negro, he determined to push down- •wards as far as the Argentine settlement of Carmen or Patagones, at the mouth, on the Atlantic. Fearing a shortness of provisions, he ordered the half of his party to return to Port Montt, and with the rest commenced to descend the river, which he found navigable, with about 10 or 12 feet of water. After some slight mishaps, in coming foul of the hidden obstacles, he had the misfortune to capsize the boat, and his men narroAvly escaped drowning : he owed his own safety to a life-belt, the water being here fourteen feet deep. The loss of all his charts and instruments was even less than that of the provisions, on which depended the lives of all the party. Luckily he fell in with a tribe of Pehuelches Indians, who at first determined to kill all the intruders, but the interpreter explaining that Mr. Cox was very rich, it was at length agreed that he should pay a large ransom, leaving four of his men as hostages, while he proceeded to Port Montt. He accordingly returned with the ransom, but instead of accompanying his men back to Chile, remained a voluntary companion of the Pehuelches, whose costume he even adopted, with the hope of accom- panying them at the usual time of year in their journey to Carmen, to sell skins and ostrich feathers. Some neighboring tribes, hearing of the Christian who went hunting guanacos and ostriches with the Pehuelches, threatened to make a «malon» with fire and lance if he were permitted to remain in Indian territory, and he saw himself forced to return to Chile, where an account of his explorations has since been published at the cost of Government. By a fortunate coincidence Mr. Cox was wrecked at the very same rapids mentioned by the Spanish pilot Villarin, who reached this point in a small vessel which ascended the Rio Negro from the Atlantic- Hence Mr. Cox considers his expedition realized, and declares the water- course navigable the whole way (excepting about a mile) from one ocean to the other. He speaks highly of M. Lenglier, a Frenchman who joined him in all his perilous adventures. He states that as the Argentines hold the line of the Rio Negro from Patagones to the Island of Choel-echoel, it would be easy for Chile to occupy the remainder as far as Lake Nahuel- huapi, and by this means a splendid country Avould be thrown open for immigration, and a navigable highway made available for commerce across the continent. It would seem, however, that more than thirty years previously the late Captain Smyley had gone the same route : in a letter dated 10th February, 1865, he stated— «In the years 1828 and 1829 I made a tour of the coast of Chile, from Copiap6 to San Carlos (in the island of Chiloe), and from there crossed the CHILIAN AND ARGENTINE PROJECTS. 57 Cordillera of the Andes with the Araucanian Indians. After that, I travelled with the Pampas, Chuhuelches, and Magellan Indians, from the head waters of the Kio Negro as far as the Straits of Magellan, and thenc9 back, over a more southern route, laying down the latitudes and longitudes of the principal places on both routes. I have several times since then travelled with the Indians on most parts of the coast of Patagonia. And I still claim to be the first white man who ever took this route ; and I firmly believe, from what the Indians teU me, that no one has ever accomplished it since. I beg leave to differ with Mr. Cox, or any others who find a carriage road across the Andes, or judge the whole course of the Rio Negro navigable as far as the South Atlantic. At the same time I must acknowledge the route to be easy, and, for most of the way, through a fine country. Nor do I think the day far distant when this territory will prove the richest part of South America, both in mineral products and for agricultural purposes.)) In the year 1864, 3Ir. Orestes Tornero, a native of Valparaiso, solicited from the Chilian Legislature a concession for all the territory lying between deg. 49, S. lat., and the Straits of Magellan, from the Atlantic to the Pacific. This slice of land is 300 miles long (from Cape Virgin in the Atlantic to Cape Desiree in the Pacific), by 250 wide, which would give a superficial extent of 75,000 square miles, almost equal to the whole island of Great Britain. The concessionaire bound himself — 1st. To establish colonies on the territory ceded, the minimum number of settlers at the end of ten years to amount to 10,000 persons; and, 2nd. To establish two, four, or more steam tugs. The colonists were to be free of taxes for fifty years. Another project for colonization and steam tugs was got up by Don Anjel Palazuelos; but it is not clear if either of these enterprises wQl ever be realised. At present, the Chilian Government is paying much attention to the navigation of Magellan's Straits, having sent a war steamer to accom- pany H.B.M.'s ship Nassau in the surveys and soundings ordered by the British Admirality. In August 1865, a grand project was got up by Don Juan Cruz Ocampo and M. Brie dc Laustan (the latter gentleman had much colonial experience in Algiers) ; their prospectus was as follows : — «The petitioners propose to form a Joint-stock Argentine Credit Mobilier and Patagonia Colonization Company, within two years from date, with a capital of £1 ,000,000 to £i,000,000 sterling : such company to have power to emit Lettres de Gage guaranteed by Government. They propose to introduce 1 ,000 families (or 5,000 persons) within five years after formation tS COLONIZATION OF PATAGONIA. of this company, and 3,000 in tlie succeeding ten years, to colonize the country lying between the Rivers Colorado and Negro, the Government ceding to the company three-fourths of a square league (4,800 acres) of land for each family introduced from any neighboring or foreign country. They further propose to introduce, within five years as above, 800 families to settle south of the Rio Negro, and so on 22,000 families within fifty subsequent years (divided in proportions of live years each), for the coloni- zation of Patagonia proper, the Government ceding as before, at the company's choice, a square league (6,500 acres) for each family so settled. They propose to make these colonies pastoral, not agricultural, advancing to each family a sum of £400 sterling in passage money, house, maintenance for twelve months, and stock of 500 sheep, 50 cows, 3 mares, 2 horses, a ■waggon, seeds, farming implements, and grazing land: the amount of such advances, with interest and expenses, to be refunded by the colonists in yearly instalments not exceeding 12 per cent., which would be more than covered by the wool. They solicit from Government, besides a league of land for each family (in all 25,800 square leagues, or 155,000,000 acres), the following concession : — «lst. Authority to govern the colony during sixty years, with a code approved by Government. «2nd. Half the nett proceeds of import and export duties of the colony for said term. «3rd. Exemption from import duties on all instruments and animals introduced. «4th. Maintenance by Government of a proper military force. «5th. Permission to build docks, railways, schools, &c. «6th. Sanction for the Credit Mobilier Company's statutes, «7th. Guarantee for the Lettres de Gayo) Mr. Ocampo died of cholera in April 1867, and M. de Laustan went home to France. This was the last grand emigration scheme connected »itli Patagonia, only one of w hich was ever carried out, and the history thereof (the Welsh Colony) we shall now proceed to narrate. THE WELSH COLONY. In July 1863, the following concession was signed by the Argentine Government : — ((The Minister of Interior of the Argentine Republic, Dr. William Rawson, in name of the Government, on the one part, and a special committee of the Welsh Emigration Society, composed of the following IJersons:— G. H. Whalley, M. P., David Williams, High Sheriff of THE WELSH COLO>Y. 59 Carnarvon, and Robert John Parry, of Madrin Castle, Wales — on the other part, have agreed to conclude the following contract : — «Ist. The Welsh Emigration Society shall send out, during ten years, from 300 to 500 families of emigrants yearly, and establish them in the territory of Patagonia, in the Argentine Republic, South of the Rio Negro. «2nd. The Argentine Government grants to every 200 families a municipal fee in perpetuity of two square leagues of land, the half of such land to be devoted to edifices and public Avorks, such as schools, churches, town-hall, house of correction, and other public purposes ; the remaining half to be distributed in building plots, either to be given gratis to the first settlers, or sold afterwards for the rental support of the colony. «3rd. In addition to the 25 squares of land given by the law to each emigrant family, the National Government will grant an area of five square leagues for every 200 families, adjacent to the respective munici pality, to be divided among them. «:4th. In case the colonists require more land, they shall be permitted to buy or rent the same, of the Government, on the most moderate terms, in accordance with the laws of the country. a5th. Any mines of metal, coal, or minerals which may be discovered, shall belong to the finder, without any other impost than the * sovereignty ' as decreed by the law. «6th, The general management of affairs and government of the colony, shall be vested in a commissioner or governor appointed by the National Government, in the manner, and for the period, directed by the laws to be made and provided for territorial jurisdiction. «7th. The municipal administration shall belong exclusively to the colonists, in accordance with their own regulations. <'8th. The colonists shall be exempt from all military service or contri- butions for the term of ten years ; but they engage to defend themselves, unaided, against the Indians. ttOth. When the population of the colony shall have arrived at the number of 20,000 souls, it will enter as a new province, to form part of the nation, and, as such, shall be endowed with all the rights and privileges thereunto belonging : at the same time its territorial limits shall be definitively marked out. «10th. The National Government, seeing the distance and solitude of these localities, will furnish the first company of emigrants with 4 pieces of artillery, 50 fanegas Indian corn, 50 fanegas wheat, 50 tons lumber for building, 200 tame horses, 50 milch cows, and 3,000 sheep. «llth. The society will give timely notice to the Government of the 60 COLONIZATION OF PATAGONIA. probable date when the first batch of colonists may be expected to arrive at the port of Bahia Nueva, in order that the provisions, cattle, &c. mentioned in the previous article, may be sent to that, or any other point indicated, in time to meet them on their arrival. «12th. The colony shall be subject to the legislation to be dictated by Congress, for the government of national territories. — W.Rawson, J. Love, D. Jones Parry, Love Jones.)) The colonists sailed from Liverpool in the barque Mimosa, on April 25th, 1865, numbering 132 souls, and arrived safely at the River Cliupat on the 28th of July, the site chosen for the colony being in 43 deg. 15 m. S. Lat., and65deg. W. Long. There were 62 adult males, 41 adult females, 17 boys, and 12 girls. From the very outset the Colony has undergone severe vicissitudes, as appears to be the fate of all new settlements ; in fact, in the early part of 1867 the colonists determined to abandon the locality, and actually transported themselves and effects some 40 miles to a place of embarkation ready to leave. However, on further council, nearly all returned to their farms, and have been steadily working and progressing since. It appears the great drawback to the place, from its commencement, has been insufficient stock and implements. This has been recently remedied to some extent by the importation of some American ploughs, and 150 milch cows. There are no sheep on the settlement, although there are abundant pasture lands in the vicinity. So far, the colonists have devoted themselves to wheat growing, and, to the extent of their scanty live stock, to dairy produce. These will evidently form the staple agricultural industry of the settlement, but it is expected soon to have a few flocks of sheep in addition. Sealing, salt, and mining operations also, we hear, are in view. The Argentine Government have behaved handsomely towards the Colony. For three years it has supplied the settlers with provisions, it has spent about $10,000 s. in cattle and seeds, &c. for the place, it has supplied all the men with arms and ammunition, it gave half the purchase money for the first schooner of the Colony, and has again assisted in the purchase of another to replace the lost one. All this without any other interest than that of encouraging emigration and developing these territories. Each settler occupies a chacraof 25 squares (nearly 100 acres) on the banks of the river, aud receives the Government subsidies in proportion to the family. The Tehuelche Indians — the genuine aboriginal Patagonians — visit the settlement in tribes every year, for trade and to receive their rations from the Government. The ostrich feathers and skins which they bring are a mo CHUPAT AND BAHIA WUEVA. 61 profitable source of revenue to the colonists. Many horses and mares have been obtained from them in the same manner. The latest advices from the Colony give the following statistics : — Families, 33 Church, 1 Persons, .... 124 Milch cows. . 200 Brick houses, 24 Horses and mares. 100 Ranchos, 6 Wheat sown (acres) , . . . 250 The Committee of management (twelve in number) and Superintendent of the Colony are elected annually. Secretary, Mr. R. J. Berwzn. Government Agent, Mr. L. Jones. Five hundi-ed lots, of 100 acres each, have been measured out by a Government surveyor, and it is calculated that the region on which the settlement is placed is capable of supporting 20,000 souls. The ground at present occupied by the Colonists extends on each side of the River Chupat over an area of twelve miles. The climate is very good, a little colder, but drier, and more bracing than that of Buenos Ay res. Bahia ?fueva, which is in the vicinity of the settlement, abounds in fish ; and in the adjoining country game is very plentiful. Seals are met Avith in great numbers on the coast, and inland there are numerous herds of guanacos or wild llamas whose skins are highly prized, and are used by the Indians as their only garment. Stone in great variety, gj-psum and salt are met with, the latter article in great abundance. It is also reported that coal exists in the neighbourhood of the settlement. An interesting account of the colony and adjacent country is given by the Rev. Lewis Humphreys (who was chaplain at the Chupat during the first year of the settlement) in his report to the directors of the Welsh Colonising Company — ((New Bay, the place where we landed, extends twenty-two miles inland and is seven miles across the entrance. It forms a splendid port, perfectly sheltered from all except the east wind, which, however, very seldom blows ; and it is spacious and deep enough to accommodate the whole navy of Great Britain at anchor. Mr. Downes, the mate of the 3Iimosa, assured me that New Bay is the best port of South America for vessels to enter and remain in perfect security. ((The River Chupat flows through at least three distinct valleys, divided from each other by chains of hills. The settlement is at present confined to the lower valley, which is about forty-five miles long and about five miles broad on the average. On the whole the land is dry, though there are a few swampy parts, which dry up entii-ely when the river is low. The supply of timber in this valley is limited, for though there are trees of many 62 COLONIZATION OF PATAGONIA. kinds, they are all small, being generally not larger than the common hazel of this country. There is, nevertheless, a superabundance of brushwood, ■which will last us for fuel indefinitely, since it grows again after being cut. The second valley is similar to the first, and is very fertile, being covered thickly with cock plants. It contains abundance of sandstone, admirably adapted for building purposes, and the trees improve considerably in size and strength. Six hundred farms, of 100 acres each, have been measured out in this valley, in readiness for the second company of emigrants. The third valley has been only partially explored. It is narrow, and bounded on each side by rocks. What lies higher up the river is not yet known. The river water is pure and sweet, though its color is somewhat cloudy, and near the surface is frequently brackish. The unanimous verdict of every one of us is, that the climate is delightful and very healthy. A few Tvere ill some w eeks after landing, owing partly to the fatigue of carrying^ and arranging heavy goods, and partly to their frequently getting wet through and allowing their saturated clothing to dry upon their persons ; otherwise no cases of sickness occurred, whilst many instances might be given of the perfect restoration to health of invalids. Indigestion, head- ache, toothache, colds, and consumption are unknown there, although I and many others have frequently slept in the open air night after night in the depth of winter, which is so genial that no evil effects followed an amount of exposure which would certainly have proved fatal in any part of Great Britain. Owing, however, to our being compelled to subsist on salted meat during the passage out, and for the first few months after landing, the majority of us suffered more or less from scurvy, and some of us from boils. Still, all these inconveniences did not prevent our enjoying to the utmost the splendid atmosphere, which kept us constantly hungry, and was praised by every one as the ' healthiest a man ever breathed.' 1 believe that every person in the colony ate double what sufficed him at home. With such an excellent climate it is not surprising that the land should be extremely fertile. We discovered several kinds of edible wild plants, such as wild celery and turnips, and a sort of potato, all of which were very good. «Yarious unavoidable delays which took place at Liverpool and at New Bay prevented our settling ourselves ready for work until about two months after the proper season for sowing wheat, consequently all hopes of a crop for the first year had to be abandoned. We sowed small quantities of Indian corn, barley, potatoes, and garden seeds, all of which grew excellently, and yielded a gratif)'ing crop. It is absolutely necessary to sow wheat before the end of the winter, in order that it may fructify before the period of summer heat, which would otherwise scorch it rather than PROSPECTS OF THE WELSH COLONISTS. 63 ripen it. The wheat harvest takes place about Cliristmas, so that the news about the crop cannot reacli this country before the end of January next. We labored under the grave disadvantage of not possessing an adequate stock of implements of husbandry, and consequently were unable to sow as much as we ought to have done last season. We had two ploughs from England, and 3Ir. Lewis Jones obtained an American plough at Patagoues, We had also a few Argentine ploughs, but they were of very little use. We kept two men constantly at work ploughing, and succeeded in sowing about sixty acres with wheat ; and when I left they were busily engaged preparing ground for a second setting of potatoes, Indian corn, &c. We had at that time been supplied with many thousands of young trees for planting, among which wer^4,000 fruit trees. The people generally were in excellent spirits, and looked forward to success as a certainty. Those among us who at first took a desponding view, and neglected to cultivate their farms, now praise the climate and the land, and resolve to work in earnest. Nothing whatever was wanted but a crop in its due season, and every indication appeared to justify our expectations of a favorable harvest. The locality has shown itself to be highly satisfactory, and our faith has given place to the certainty resulting from the possession of tangible proofs. And I may be permitted to observe here that as the products of the Chupat valley correspond in all other respects to those of the Rio Negro valley, there is no reason to suppose that wheat and sheep will prove to be excep- tions. At the Spanish settlement on the Negro (Patagones) wheat has been largely grown during the last twenty years on the same ground, and the increase has been frequently as much as forty-fold. I learnt also that the increase in sheep at Patagones has been very pleasing this year. On one estancia alone there are 100,000 sheep, being an increase of no less than 30,000 in one year. The capital on that place last year was 70,000 sheep. Cattle are fat, and horses plenty. The sheep we had at New Bay were large and well-woolled, and no doubt they will have increased in the same proportion as the sheep just mentioned ; in fact, they were brought from the very flocks referred to. Our horses and cattle were remarkably fine and fat, even in winter, when they require no housing or other attention, as the pasturage is abundant and excellent all the year round. At the time I left we had about 100 cattle, sixty of which were milch cows, two full-grown bulls, and a number of younger ones. We had about forty horses, and each family possessed pigs and fowls, all of which were increasing rapidly. In some of the farm-yards the fowls were sufficiently abundant to recall to mind the homesteads of Caermarthenshire. None of us chose to kill cattle for food, owing to the paucity of their number, and 64 COLONIZATION OF PATAGONIA. the pigs and fowls had not increased sufficiently for us to commence eatin» them ; and, indeed, there was not the slightest necessity to interfere with them, for the whole territory literally swarms with game ; hares, guanacos, armadillos, ducks, geese, partridge, and ostriches, and the river and bay furnish an ample supply of fish. The hares are very large, and commonly weigh from 18tt to 20li, whilst the birds are very fat and frequently find their way into the cooking-kettle. «It is an act of the merest justice for me to state that the Government of the Argentine Republic has acted in a most liberal and praiseworthy manner towards the Welsh Colony. Our president, Mr. William Davis, visited Buenos Ayres near the end of 1865, and obtaii^d from the Government a monthly grant of ^700, to be paid until the colony becomes self-supporting, and supplies have been regularly furnished ever since through the agency of Mr. H. Harris, a merchant long established at Patagones. I must also not omit to mention gratefully the valuable assistance afforded us by the native Indians. The chief of the tribe sent us a letter asking for English saddles and rum, in exchange for skins, &c., and I understand that a treaty of peace and commerce lias since been made. Two families of Indians have been several months established in the colony, and to their assistance we owed the greater part of game we obtained. They bartered large quantities of fresh meat for small pieces of bread, and exchanged mares for horses. The colonists now possess about 40 dogs, and the consequence of both these circumstances, is, that they have begun to tire of a super- abundance of fresh meat. When I left, very few persons lived in the fort : the majority had built brick-houses, and many had gone to live upon their OAvn farms. «In the proper season, seal-fishery is carried on to a great extent along the coast of Patagonia, principally by English and North American sailors who know their haunts. On several occasions some of the settlers have seen multitudes of seals basking on the beach of New Bay, and have killed a few with sticks. New Bay is a general rendezvous for vessels engaged in this business, and a trade has sprung up between them and the settlers, which will become an important element in the well-being of the colony, as soon as we are in a position to supply them with fresh provisions, &c. Some of the settlers have visited a number of Guano islands, which lie within easy reach of the colony, and have seen the guano, but as it varies greatly in quality, even on the same spot, it will be necessary to employ men well acquainted with it to superintend the selection and loading of a cargo. ((Having thus touched upon all the points connected with the settlement THE WELSH COLO^iY. 65 that I can call to mind, I will relate two important and interesting episodes. On the 17th September, 1865, the Comandante of Patagones, accom- panied by several Argentine officials and a militar}^ guard, performed the ceremony of formally giving us possession of the territory and naming our first town the 'The Kawson,' in honor of Dr. William Raw son, the 31inister of the Interior, who has manifested a true and deep interest in the establishment of the colony. In March 1866, a sealer entered New Bay, and two of the settlers availed themselves of the opportunity to migrate to the Falkland Islands. This desertion suggested to others of a similar class the idea of sending a memorial to the Falkland Islands praying to be removed from the Welsh settlement. The memorial misrepresented the state of affairs, and was dispatched without the knowledge of the general body of the settlers. In consequence of that memorial Her Britannic Majesty's ship Triton visited the colony in June last, to remove the people in a body, if necessary. This offer caused the greatest astonishment in the settlement, and enquiries were made to ascertain who among them had been guilty of sending the memorial. The commander of the Triton produced the document for inspection, when it was found that*very few names had been appended, and the greater part of those individuals denied their complicity when taxed with it. We at once declined to leave the colony, and the Triton, having assisted us to repair our little schooner and presented us with a cask of lime-juice, left us where we chose to remain. » In 1868 a sad misfortune befell the colony in the loss of the little schooner and six of the colonists, viz.: — Robert F. Nagle, captain, from Liverpool ; George Jones, from Liverpool ; James Jones, from Caermar- thenshire, having a wife and family in the colony ; Thomas D. Evans, Manchester, also having a wife and family in the colony ; David Davies, from Aberdare, having his parents in the colony ; and Thomas Cadivor Woods, Secretary of the Welsh Colonising Company at home, who had recently arrived in the Colony to report upon it, and had taken a trip to see Patagones before returning home. The colony sustained another loss in the departure of ten settlers, who have joined the Californian colony in the Gran Chaco. Latest advices are, however, more cheering : — «The Colony is mai*ching steadily onward. The pjovisions,- clothes, and wheat, barley, and cattle were all safely landed, and caused universal joy and activity. Active Indian trade has been done, and was doing when I left.)) The success of the Welsh Colony may be said to rest on the future support it will meet with in regard to an augmentatica in its number. It is almost superfluous to remark that any new batch of emigrants would not C6 COLOmZATIOIf OF PATAGONIA. encounter the same misfortunes that befell the original settlers. Too great stress, however, cannot be laid on the following points as a guide to emigrants who may contemplate joining their countrymen : — 1 . That they should come out with some capital. ^2. That they should bring with them ploughs, hand-mills, seeds, and lumber, for the construction of huts, as there are few trees in the country. 3. That they should sail from England in the month of March, in order to arrive at the Chupat in time to prepare the ground they will be called upon to cultivate, before the season for sowing, which in this country is in the months of May and June. FREE LAND-GRAWTS AT BAHIA BLANC A. It will interest many Englishmen who come to this country witli the intention of settling, to know that camp can be taken out direct from the Argentine Government in «propiedad,» at Bahia Blanca to the extent of one ((suerto) (6,700 acres) in one name, on condition that a house or «rancho» js built upon the land, and a flock of sheep placed upon it, within one year after allotment. The cost of solicitatiou and surveying, &c., say .£40. By a flock of sheep is meant 1 ,000 head. After allotment of camp a deposit is required of g 10,000 mtc. or £80^ to be made with the Provincial Bank, which is returned when the above conditions have been complied with, but is forfeited should the depositor fail to comply. The Provincial Bank allows six per cent, per annum on this deposit. At the end of two years, when the Justice of the Peace of the district has certified that all conditions have been duly carried out, the title deeds are forthcoming. It must be distinctly understood that the land must be occupied during the whole of the term of two years. Land can still be obtained within twelve or fourteen leagues of the town and port of Bahia Blanca, and all the banks of the numerous rivers in the neighbour- hood have not been taken up, though with the increasing number of new settlers going down this will not long be the case. It is stated that vessels of any tonnage can enter the bay, and there seems no doubt that a good landing place might easily be found. The present settlement is composed chiefly of Englishmen, who would welcome any new settlers, and give them all the assistance in their power. The close proximity of the Indians is the chief drawback ; but so long as cattle is not reared, there is little to tempt them within range of the Snider rifles. Indians cannot carry corn on horseback, neither do sheep travel on foot fast enough for their purpose, so this is no very great impediment after all. The frontier is to be moved to within thirty leagues of Bahia Blanca^ LAND-GRAISTS AT BAHIA BLA>CA. 67' at the close of this unhappy war, Avhich will give greatly increased protection. The land and climate are both admirably suited for agriculture, and tlie natives grow a great deal of corn there already. It may be mentioned^ that scarcely three years ago laud could be obtained at Azul on the same terms as at Bahia Blauca, and it now fetches $100,000 or about £800 per ttsuerte.)) The latter place kas the great advantage of a seaboard, while all the produce of the former has to be conveyed to market in buUocE— carts at no small cost. Sheep — ^Picked flocks can be bought at $20 m^, orS^. 4 J. per head, and fatten wonderfully on these camps. There seems no reason why sheep- farmers should not boil down their own sheep, and thus net the profit of the saladero, and save the great loss of grease, which travelling any number of. leagues must always entail. This could the more easily be done here,, as the transit is comparatively easy. Intending settlers should secure the services of some good English laborers, as native labor is both scarce and dear. The usual wages are from $300 to $350, or say £2 lOs. to £3 per mouth. A steamer runs once a month between Buenos Ayres and Bahia Blauca, and as there is no- opposition at present, the charges are very high, but directly there is sufficient trade to make one pay, it will not be difficult to get one on the berth to make regular passages at moderate rates. There is also an Italian schooner which makes frequent trips to Bahia Blauca, bringing up the produce of the place. Bahia Blauca being situated so far from Buenos Ayres and Montevideo, will never be troubled by the many revolutions which so often occur here, which is of itself a great thing in its favor. In the face of the bad returns that sheepfarming has given during the last few years, coming settlers ought to turn their attention in the direction of this noted corn-growing district. An Englishman who recently made a trip to Bahia Blauca and Patagones, describes those places as well suited for new settlers ; his narrative is the following — «We started from Buenos A}Tes in the steamer Patagones, on the 1 0th. ult., and after three days of beautiful weather arrived at the port of Bahia Blauca. The entrance to this place must prove a great drawback to its future advancement, as the windings of tlie channel remind one of trying to follow the turns of a corkscrew. From the steamer's anchorage to the shore appears to be about a mile distant, but the windings of the creek are such that the boats have to be rowed at least a league. However, having overcome these little difficulties, we reached the mole (which is constructed r2 68 ' COLONIZATION OF PATAGONIA. of several old bullock carts), and Avere kindly received by Sefior Coronti, -vvho furnished us with horses to proceed to the town, which is about two leagues from the landing-place. Having taken a walk round in the evening we saw all that is to be seen about the tOAvn, which is not much, though there are some nice chacras and quintas in the vicinity. Next morning, Sefior Coronti had horses ready for us, and his son kindly accompanied us as a guide, to have a look at the camps on the Naposta, which is a small river rising in the interior, and running througli the town. For two or three leagues up the stream the valley of the Naposta is under cultivation, and the wheat crop looks very promising. The camps we found much better than ^e had anticipated, and Senor Coronti offers very fair terms to settlers, and great praise is due to him for the way in wliich he has exerted all his energy for the advancement of Bahia Blanca, and for his unbounded hospitality to strangers. In the evening we were introduced to the commandant, who showed us through the fort, which, in comparison with the others we have seen on the frontier, is certainly a model of neatness and order. The following morning we embarked for Patagones, and in eighteen liours found ourselves off the mouth of the Rio Negro ; the bar being in good order for crossing, we at once entered this finest of Argentine rivers, and steamed up to the town of Carmen or Patagones, lying about seven leagues from the mouth of the river. We were favorably impressed with the first appearance of the country. The banks on each side of the river (which at the town is about 150 yards wide), are beautifully laid out in chacras, quintas, &c., and the trees and range of hills beyond reminded us more of the old country than anything Ave have as yet seen in South America. Having effected a landing, which is much more easily accom- plished here than in most Argentine ports, the steamer lying within about ten yards from the north bank, Ave found that Patagones Avas far before the sister toAvn of Bahia Blanca in its accommodation for travellers, each family seeming to vie with the other in trying to make strangers feel at home. «But, to resume our journey. The next morning, having got horses from Senor Aguirre, who offers every assistance to parties Avishing to look at the camps, Ave started up the north side of the river, Avhich, for a distance of six or seven leagues, until you reach the Fortin, is thickly covered Avith a bushy scrub, the range of hills coming doAvn to the river's edge. But, after passing this, the country opens out into line level camp, lying betAveen the hills and the river, which we found covered with excellent pasture. The sheep and cattle Avere very fat, and the flocks remarkably clean. ToAvards evening Ave arrived at the China Muerta estancia, belonging to Scuorcs Heusscr and Clarez, where Ave stayed till next morning. This PATAGOINES i.>D RIO NEGRO. 69 estancia is one of the finest in this part of the country; the camp is excellent, and lias a large river frontage, besides permanent 'lagunas' in the back. •Next morning we resumed our journey, and arrived at the Guardia in time for breakfast. This is a stirring little place, there being no less than six stores, all of which seem to do a strong trade with the Indians ; several tame tribes of the latter live in the vicinity, and are constantly to be seen going about in their native costume of 'quillangos.' The same evening we arrived at the estancia of four Scotchmen, the first of our countrymen settled in this quarter, and who, with their proverbial hospi- tality, insisted on our making this our headquarters during our stay. We were happy to see that though but lately started they had made very fair progress, and were looking forward to good returns. , «We crossed the Rio Negro at the Guardia, and swam our horses over, and then rode up some four leagues to the ' tolderia ' of the Indian cacique Saihueque, who had just arrived from the Manzanas, with about 1.30 men. From Buenos Ayres accounts of these Indians we expected to meet a set of ferocious savages, and consequently felt rather doubtful what kind of reception we should get ; but we were agreeably surprised to find the chief a fine looking, intelligent, and altogether superior man, who received us very kindly. We spent a couple of hours withbim, squatted in front of his toldo, and before leaving we purchased a few skins, &c., from them, and returned highly delighted with our visit. To a stranger, an Indian * tolderia,' or encampment, with its huts of guanaco skins, and its swarthy inhabitants variously engaged — some cooking, some bringing firewood, others sleeping, and the women sewing the ' quillangos ' with ostrich sinews — the war lances stuck in the earth in front of the tents, and the immense number of horses feeding over the plains, is altogether an imposing and interesting sight. These Indians do not disturb the country, as in the northern provinces ; but come in, quarterly, for the rations allowed to them by the Government, and therefore it is to their interest to keep themselves quiet, «Eeturning to the north side, w^e rode up some eight leagues further on. Here, as lower down, the camps were in excellent condition. The 'rincons' formed by the river are very numerous, and well suited for agriculture ; this is carried on to a good extent in the district, both sides of the river being under cultivation, and the wheat crops looking very promising. The next day, having said good-bye to our countrjmen, we again crossed the river at the Guardia, returning to the town on the south side. Here the camp looked beautiful, and was of much larger extent than that on the north side, the hills being very far from the river. ^0 COLONIZATION OP PATAGONIA. «The Rio Negro is well wooded on both sides, and studded here and there Avith islands, some of which are under cultivation, and others covered with trees, adding much beauty to the scenery ; in fact, the view from some of the higher points of the hills, looking up the river, we have seldom seen equalled. The river seems to vary very little in breadth, and from good authority we learn that it has been navigated for forty leagues higher up by a pilot-boat drawing four or five feet of water ; but, unless propelled by steam, this navigation must be tedious, on account of the strong current running down.w ENGLISH SETTLERS ON THE RIO NEGRO. Advices from the Rio Negro to September 1868, are as follows : — ((The English settlers are going on very prosperously, and are planting wheat in large quantities, at the same time they have sheep and cattle. Messrs. Frazer and Co. have a league of excellent land on the banks of the Rio Negro, in a 'rincon' formed by a bend of the stream, about thirteen leagues above Patagones ; they have sown fifty fanegas of wheat, which at present looks beautiful, and nexA year they intend laying the whole of their land under the same crop. Three families formerly of the Chupat AVelsh Colony, are settled about twelve leagues higher up than f razor's ; their wheat is also in excellent condition. In fact, the whole country looks blooming with corn-fields at greater or lesser intervals, and the Rio Negro is rapidly becoming a wheat country. Englishmen arrive at Patagones by every steamer, to lay down wheat, as land is very cheap, and there is no fear of Indians. Government grants of land may be had higher up the river, and Messrs. xVguirre and Murga are sending down, at once, a little steamer drawing three feet of water, for the navigation of the Rio Negro. Messrs. Kincaid have also a fine estancia, nineteen leagues from Patagones, where they arc also planting wheat, and have some sheep and cattle, besides a splendid quinta. The government has resolved to place 1,500 men on the Rio Negro frontier, and the first batch of 150 goes down immediately. This sliows that our legislators attach due importance to the rising colony, in which Englishmen are becoming the chief settlers. We understand there is a project before the Chambers, for a railway from Patagones to Salinas, for the conveyance of salt to the seaboard. The flour-mill now building on the banks of the Rio Negro, about five leagues from Patagones, ]will be concluded before the end of the year, and will prove a great boon to the town, as hitherto the wheat had to be ground hy hand.» ENGLISHMEN" AT BAHIA BLANCA. 71 *P. Corronti, *J. Birtoli, *Fusoni Brothers, *George Claraz, *J. Arnold, *Johii Sinclair, *Richard Tillard, *S. J. Eyre, *John Mildred, *E. P. Goodhall, *Bryan Smith, P. de Montravel, J. Corbyn, J. Barber, William Perkins, F. Daniel, — Webb, E. Herbert, A. Huber, L. Jacob, J. Jaccar, J. Jockez. FOREIGN SETTLERS AT BAHIA BLANCA. The following are the names of the principal foreign settlers at Bahia Blanca. Those marked Tvith an asterisk (*) are already occupying the land : — * Arthur Mildred, and 2 English laborers, *J. H. Edwards, *R. J. Greuie, *H. Hentze, *Richard IN'ewton, J. Schuriz, H. W. GoodhaU, F. Smiles, Rev. Mr. Powell, T. Fallon, The greater number of the English portion of the above are settled on the banks of a river, known as the Sauce Grande, situated about ten leagues from Bahia Blanca, to the north. They have some tw enty-five squares of land under cultivation, sown with wheat, barley, and maize — this being their first year — and we may look forward to seeing three times this extent of camp turned up for next season. By the commencement of 1869 a large brick-built estancia-house will be finished, and before June next two other smaller ones. We have great hopes of the newly-elected President, Seuor Sarmiento, and trust he may afford us the protection that is alone Avanted to make this part of the Republic a most prosperous district. He may rest assured that European energy, combined with capital, will accomplish the work of civilisation, if it is only allowed to run its course unmolested, and in a very short space of time will change a comparatively waste corner of this province into a thriving and populated country. 72 THE RIO DE LA PLATA. CHAP. YII. BIO DE LA PLATA AND TRIBUTAEIES. The River Plate is one of the longest rivers in the world, including its two great tributaries, the Parand and Uruguay. Suffice it to say that the traveller can take steamer at Montevideo and ascend without interruption to the capital of Matto Grosso, a distance of over two thousand miles. At Montevideo the river is about 75 miles wide, but the water is brackish : at Buenos Ayres the water is quite fresh, and the river is 28 miles wide. Twenty miles above Buenos Ayres we arrive at the junction of the Parand and Uruguay. The lower Parana is about 900 miles long from its embouchure, near San Fernando, up to the Tres Bocas, above Corrientes : the upper Parand, from the Tres Bocas to the Salto de Guayra is only navigable for small boats. The Paraguay river, which debouches into the Parana at Tres Bocas, is navigable as far as the Guy aba : on this latter stream is built a city of the same name, residence of the Brazilian authorities of Matto Grosso, about 1,100 miles above the city of Asuncion, the capital of Paraguay. The Uruguay is ordinarily navigable only as high as Salto, but in flood-times the steamers ascend the rapids and go up to Uruguayana and San Borja, in the Brazilian province of Rio Grande. The Rio Negro is one of the chief affluents of the Uruguay ; the Salado of the Parana ; and tlie Vermejo, Tebiquari, and Pilcomayo fall into the Paraguay. VOYAGE TO MATTO GROSSO. 73 THE PARAN.4. Buenos Ay res to Matto Grosso. Before the breaking-out of the Paraguayan war there was a regular Brazilian monthly mail-service from Buenos Ayres to Cuyaba, making the trip in ten to twelve days. The vessels were of light draught,' and the accommodations pretty good. At the same time the Paraguayan Govern- ment had a fine line of steamers plying twice a month between Asuncion and Montevideo. Various private companies also had steamers running from Buenos Ayres to Corrientes, and an ineffectual attempt was made to navigate the V'crmejo. The scenery from Buenos Ayres to Cuyaba has much of interest for the traveller, although at times the coast is low and marshy, and the wooded outline of the Chaco, at last grows monotonous and wearisome : there are sundry important towns and halting places. If we leave the roadstead of Buenos Ayres on a fine morning, nothing can be more charming tJian the panorama of the city and suburbs. We pass, in succession, Palermo with its plantations to the water's edge ; Belgrano, seated on a gentle acclivity , Point Olivos, a handsome promon- tory, where a new town has been projected ; San Isidro, with its delightful country-seats ; and San Fernando, at the head of the estuary of La Plata. We enter the Parand by one of its many mouths, the best known of which are the Guazii and Palmas : the latter is the shorter route, used by small steamers which touch at Zarate and San Pedro. The delta of the Parand comprises a multitude of fertile and picturesque islands, planted with fruit-trees ; and if the traveller halts at San Fernando or the Tigre, he can amuse himself for several days by boating in the Conchas and Lujan rivers, or making an excursion to the Carapachay islands. These islands are poetically termed the Argentine Tempo ; they teem with the richest fruits, and a number of Italian charcoal-burners are the principal inhabitants. We do not get a glimpse of the mainland till reaching Campana, the estancia of Dr. Costa, late Minister of Education, who has built a fine house on the bluff. Zarate is a straggling village of 1,000 inhabitants, with a smaU trade in grain, firewood, and vegetables. The principal shopkeeper is an Italian, Constancio Silvano. There is a new church, also a tolerable Basque inn, and two public schools which are attended by 106 children. The adjacent estancias of Latorre, Lima, Saavedra, and Fox, are worthy of mention. The cultivation of grain has greatly increased of late years. During^ 74 THE mo DE LA. PLATA. the Paraguayan war this has been the chief port for shipment of horses. The * barrancas' on our left are precipitous, and here and there crowned with a hut or ombii-tree, till we reach — Baradero: this is another small port, comprising 105 houses, a church, and an unfinished school-house. The place derives some importance from a flourishing Swiss colony. The department comprises ninety-two estancias, of which seven belong to Irishmen : the largest proprietor is D. Palricio Lynch. San Pedro is a better town than the preceding, and looks well from the river: it has a new church, fifty-six rateable houses, and two public schools. D. Martin Pagardoy keeps a good inn, and is favorably known to all the Irish slieepfarmers. A little above San Pedro is the pass of Obligado, where the English and French cut the chain placed across the river by Rosas. Higher up is the fine estancia of Llavallol, at a point of the river called Rincon de Las Hermanas, after which we pass the Rincon Ramallo. San Nicolas is the last town in tlie territory of Buenos Ayrcs ; it is a place of some importance, having received the rank of ' city,' with a population of about 8,000 souls. It has 300 rateable houses, besides Mr. Armstrong's valuable mill. It is the centre of a district which comprises sixty-five estancias, and a number of chacras under wheat. By daybreak we are coasting the territory of Santa Fe, and in less than twenty-four hours from our departure from Buenos Ayres we are in sight of Rosario : the steamer goes alongside a wharf, there being deep water close to shore. Rosario is the great outlet of the upper Provinces, and will shortly be connected by railway Avith Cordoba, the chief city of the interior : the trade of the port has much increased of late years, especially since the beginning of the Central Argentine Railway. The ' barranca ' is so high that there is no view of the place till you reach the Calle Puerto. It is a well-built town covering 150 cuadras or blocks, with a population of 20,000 souls. The plaza, parish church, custom-house, market-place, and Jardin de Recreo, are worthy of notice : the theatre was recently burnt doAvn. The railway terminus and workshops at the North end will repay a visit. The town also possesses two mills, three saladeros, two cemeteries (for Catholics and Protestants), a public hospital, an American chapel and school, and gas-works in course of erection, There are some good hotels and coffee-houses. Messrs. Keane and Soames, agents for tlie Standard^ will give strangers any information they may require. Mr. Hutchinson H.B.M. Consul, lives beyond the railway terminus. Excursions may be ROSARIO TO PARANA. /» made by rail to the English settlement at Fravle Muerto, or on horseback to the fine English estancias in the valley of Pavon. For further particulars of Rosario, see the chapter on Santa Fe province. On leaving Rosario, the first thing that calls attention is Mr. Wheel- wright's mole for landing materials for the Cordoba railway ; they have cut away the 'barranca' and erected works projecting into the river. We next pass Urquiza's saladero, and another a short distance higher up. The Parana is here very wide, at least 2,000 yards, and the current runs three miles an hour, the water being very deep in the channels. The islands on all sides are low and slightly wooded, and we can see the mainland oa either side. About six leagues above Rosario Ave si^ht the edifice of San Lorenzo, with its tapering belfry and large convent. This was erected by the Franciscan missionaries, years gone by, with the probable view of forming a nucleus of civilization on the frontier of the Indian territory, and is excellently adapted for a river port, having a small cove hard by. The cove alluded to, was the scene of the first struggle for South American independence; General San Martin (I8I0) here attacked a Spanish force which attempted to land, defeating them with a handful of cavalry. The high land on our left soon merges into a network of islands, the deep water channel skirting along the opposite coast, which presents a number of inlets, through which Ave get glimpses of wood and dale, perfectly charming, in contrast with the sloping ' barrancas ' of sand-stone or tosca. The soil of these, generally presents to the eye a superficies of luxuriant grass, or thick shrubbery, and casually a grove of trees, resembling the olive, at a distant vicAV. The section made in successive ages, by the river, shows a variety of geological strata. A thick, loamy, dark soil, of six or eight feet, covers a layer of sand, beneath Avhich latter, the hard tosca stretches down to the water's edge, the base being lined or interspersed with sand heaps, fragments of boulders, or trunks of up- rooted trees. Tlie approach to Parana, is highly picturesque : towering bluffs of red sand-stone, here and there relieved by a wild furze of deep green, the effect being very pleasing to the eye. There are several lime-kilns along- the Entre Riano coast, as the sand here makes excellent lime : it looks like tosca, ajid the lime appears of the best quality, its suoAvy heaps studding the beach. About a mile below Parana are some hulks, used for coal deposits. The town of Parana is not visible from the landing-place. The scenery of this part of the river, all the Avay from Rosario, is interesting, but there is a solemn stillness on these rivers that almost oppresses you. 76 THE RIO DE LA PLATA. When we lose sight of the bluff on which Rosario stands, the coast of Entre Rios is not visible, while that of Santa Fc gradually declines towards the ■water's level. Here and there a stray rancho indicates that pastor^ avoca- tions are not quite abandoned, in a province which has been reduced almost to destitution by being the theatre of so many wars. At times also we see a small group of horses or horned cattle, which have made their way down one of the fissures caused by rains or inundations to drink the mellifluous water, which possesses many grateful and salubrious qualities. Before long, the islands on our right will have disappeared, and the continuous line of a bold barrier, on either side, shows that tlie current here is uninterrupted, and consequently runs with tremendous force, the stream being about two miles wide. On arriving at Parana the steamer is usually boarded by the agent, Mr. Lorenzo Myers, a veteran Englishman of seventy-seven summers, resident in the River Plate since the year of Independence, 1^16. He is a hale, active, old man, and has been an eye-witness of the numberless vicissitudes of the Republic durhig the last half century. Parana was the capital of the Argentine Republic during nine years, from the fall of Rosas till the battle of Pavon (September 17, 1861). The Custom-house is at the foot of the «barranca,)> and a steep road leads up to the town. First is the Church of San Miguel, commenced fifteen years ago, but abandoned when half built, and now a refuge for all kinds of vermin. There are, however, two good churches in the town, and these are quite enough, as the population does not exceed 8,000. The grand plaza is very pretty, and the buildings on all its sides modern and tasteful, most of them having been constructed under Presidents Urquiza and Derqui. The old Government-house is now ceded to Dr. Fitzsimons for a college. The Legislative Chambers are a fme range, occupying the north side : the President's palace also merits attention. But the sceptre of metropolitan sway is gone. Parana is now all but deserted, the only sigus of vitality being a newspaper and a theatre sometimes visited by strolling players. The club house is, perhaps, th^ greatest monument of desolation : the ball-room has been cut into two bed-chambers and a kitchen, for a coffee house ; the billiard-room and reading saloon are- let out to a hair-dresser, and nothing remains of former greatness. A steamer plies across the river to Santa Fe city, remarkable for its antiquity and many fine churches. A number of islands intervene, com- pletely shutting it out from view. * Leaving ParanA we are forced to make a circuit of a couple of miles, to avoid the bank, which has already nearly closed up the port. The first PARANA TO LA PAZ. 77 object of interest is the saladero built by Messrs. Seilorans, with first-class steam-power attached. The main stream washes the banks of Entre Eios, and on our right is a vast archipelago, on whose islands there is little timber, but a strong luxuriant grass, which is sold in Parana for fodder. There is a marked improvement in the scenery : amid a succession of gentle undulations on the right, the eye wanders over a rich champaign country, presenting much tlie idea of an English park or demesne. Groups of noble trees, like oaks, break the surface of a verdant vegetation, and Nature has outdone the fancy work of a landscape gardener in the rich variation of tints and foliage, the graceful outlines of hill and vale, the stately forms of pine and algarroba, which every moment present themselves. Five leagues from Parana we sight a cluster of ranches, called wTlie Spaniards,)) the owners of which usually hoist their tlag to salute vessels passing by. Behind this little settlement, which is occupied in cutting timber, is the colony of Villa Urquiza, where great efforts w ere made to plant cotton in 1864. A little further we lueet a place where boats usually cross over to Santa Fe, taking horses in tow. These animals swim much better than in Europe, and it will be remembered that Urquiza has several times passed at the Diamante an army of cavalry, for which Hannibal would have required rafts or bridges. Diamante is some leagues below Parana, and is now deserted. Two hours' sail beyond Villa Urquiza brings us to a place called Conchillas, where we perceive an estancia-house almost surrounded by trees. Next appears a lonely hut, commanding a grand view from the barranca, and the adjuncts of a cattle corral and snicdl port show that animals are here embarked for the saladeros. At Cerrito was the fine estancia of an Englishman, the late Mr. Henry • Vidal. Here it was that during the campaign of Paz and Lavalle against Rosas, the Correntino army, under General Ferre, abandoned the liberating cause, and returned by land to Corrientes, owing to local dissensions in that province. The cliffs again approach the water ; but instead of sand or tosca we have argillaceous deposits of red and purple colors, which are said to be very valuable for dyes, although not turned to use, as no one seems to interest himself in the speculation. Happily, there is no jealous guardian of woods and forests, and several small skiffs in yonder island are loading timber, which is had for the cutting. These wood-cutters are Italians, who trade with Buenos Ayres, and the Genoese may be said to monopolise the small traffic of this river. The river now breaks into a variety of channels, and the pilot has sometimes to take soundings. We cannot see the Gran Chaco, from which we are separated by numerous 78 THE RIO DE LA PLATA. islands, teeming with tigers and small crocodiles ; the latter are called caymans, and resemble what naturalists term the 'iguana.' Times have changed wonderfully since twenty years ago, when the voyage from Buenos Ayres to Paraguay occupied half a year. The Italians first introduced an improvement, making two or three trips annually, and the introduction of steamers soon reduced the voyage to a few days. Still, the windings of the river, frequency of sandbanks, and force of the current, call for the most constant attention, and going «aguas arribaw is rather tedious for those who are not admirers of the beautiful and picturesque. Tradition says that the first Spanish expedition to Paraguay passed more than twelve months in exploring the long and tortuous course of the Parand, for although the direct distance is only 1,000 miles, the way is rendered very much longer by the necessity of crossing and re-crossing from one side to the other. Certainly the adventurous settlers of the sixteenth century "were men of surpassing energy and perseverance. It is impossible for us to form an idea of the hardships and dangers they must have gone through, penetrating to the very centre of the Continent to establish a metropolis amid the woods aitd wilds of an unkno \\n country. Such as they then looked upon these cliffs and islands they are to-day, for Nature, in her simplest and rudest garb, still holds undisputed sway in these silent regions. For thousands of ages this mighty river has flowed on to the sea, and yet it is exactly the same as when first Creation dawned upon the vmiverse. The arts or science of man are nowhere visible for hundreds of miles, and the various layers of soil forming the islands only show that during numberless generations the stream has continued to carry down its deposits till they have risen above the surrounding flood, decked out in all the charms of tropical Nature, with trees of various kinds, most of them, probably, yet unknown to botanists. A thick jungle of marshy grass and entangled underwood, Avhich almost defies the entrance of man, affords a secure and favorite asylum for tigers, serpents, and alligators, except when the current rises to the tops of the trees, and a broad sheet of water stretches from either mainland to the opposite side. Then may be seen the tigers swimming across, with powerful strokes, perfectly heedless of and unmoved by the rapid whirlpools. In many places the casual groupings of foliage, broken here and there by lovely rivulets which tempt you to follow their mysterious recesses, present a picture such as Salvator Eosa or Claude Lorrain never saw even in fancy. It is a pity to think that these islands are never to be turned to any purpose or defended against the torrent, for the soil is so loose that it will hold no structure. The bed of LA PAZ TO GOYA. 79 the stream has changed often, and some towns erected on its banks are now almost inaccessible, so many islands intervene. About twelve hours' sail from Parana is La Paz, near the borders of Corrientes : the town is a poor place, but some leagues inland is a fine estancia belonging to Mr. Haycroft, and managed by Dr. Gibbings. Leaving La Paz, Me have the same general features already described. For some distance the river spreads out to an amazing width, the coast being on each side very low, and lined with timber. About twenty-five leagues above La Paz we come to the mouth of the Arroyo Espinillo, which is the frontier line between Entre Rios and Corrientes. On Captain Page's map it "is marked Sarandi or Guayquiraro, which falls iuto the former : it is not navigable. Again there is a number of these delightful islands, revelling in all the beauty of tropical vegetation, with palmetto trees, and a plant bearing goldeu leaves, easily mistaken for oranges. But what do we see on the margin of the Gran Chaco, in yonder island ? Some huts of palm trees, scarce large enough to hold a man at full length. They are the abode of some daring wood-cutters, undeterred by the tigers, which swarm hereabout, or the distance from any trace of human life. The savages of the Chaco never come down here, as they have plenty of means to pursue their occupations of hunting, fishing, or wood-cutting on the mainland. Every few minutes we cross the river, which is here about a mile wide, and verv shallow. The coast of Corrientes is low, but well wooded, and yonder is a little hut, elevated on poles, and with a tile roof, which answers as the Capitania del Puerto for Esquina, this town being half a league distant on the mainland. Esquina is a well-built town, of t,200 to 1,500 inhabitants, situate on an eminence at a bend of the River Corrientes, near its confluence with the Parana. It possesses a good church, public schools, juzgado, and other edifices, extending along the crest of the hill for about a mile, most of the houses having azoteas, with wide verandahs for shelter against the rays of an almost tropical sun. The surrounding country is remarkable for its excellent pasture, and the inhabitants are wealthy cattle-breeders, sheep being comparatively few. Mr. Hayes, the son of an American, is the only foreign resident in the town. In the year 1838 Mr. Hayes's father killed a serpent which measured twelve feet in length and fifteen inches in circum- ference, and, on opening the monster, three hens, seemingly uninjured, w ere found in its stomach : he sent the skin to the United States, where it was stuffed, and is still to be seen. The bite of these reptiles is not fatal. There is an abundance of tigers about here, and some years ago a washer- woman was devoured near the river. The Custom-house, or Aduana, is 80 THE RIO DE LA PLATA. a small wooden hut elevated on poles, ten feet above the stream, in an island half a league distant from the town. Vessels call so rarely that sometimes no officials visit the place for several days. It happened some time back that a priest was left here by the Paraguay steamer, and being unable to thread his way through the thickets and cross the rivulets, he resolved to pass the night here: some hungry tigers prowling about smelled human flesh, and sacrilegiously resolved to make a meal of him. The priest taking alarm scrambled up on the roof, and sat on the tiles until daybreak. As there Avas no steamer expected to arrive, the usual passenger boat did not come down the ' arroyo,' and one of the wild beasts kept watch below, thinking the stranger might be driven by hunger to run the gauntlet and make towards town. In this manner the poor priest passed two awful days and nights before he was relieved from his perilous post. The Gran Chaco continues on our left, in its savage grandeur, and the scenery is much the same as we have passed, except that the thickets have grown into forests, the trees lifting their massive branches to a great height : they are mostly very straight and covered with a dark green or light brown foliage. At intervals the sandy beach is strewn with withered and uprooted trunks, highly useful for shipbuilding. Six le%ues above Esquina we pass Costa Tala, where the stream attains an enormous width. Carpinchos or sea hogs now shoAV themselves on the river-bank, disporting in the grass. Higher up on our left, a short distance inland, are the ruins of two Jesuit missions, Concepcion and S. Jeronimo, the second near a stream called Arroyo del Rey. By daybreak we are in sight of Goya, where a hut stands on the edge of an island, acting both as Custom-house and landing place for passengers. About the commencement of the present century, the site now occupied by the town of Goya was a cattle farm occupied by a Portuguese whose wife was named Gregoria, familiarly contracted into Goya. Here the ships passing used to call' for beef, and the position was so favorable that the Government resolved to build a town thereon. Goya is capital of the richest district in the province, and one of the finest towns on the Parana- The houses are of brick, and the population exceeds three thousand, including a large foreign element of Italians, Basques and French. The plaza is very handsome, with a pyramid in the centre, fifty feet high, on one side, and a church not yet finislied, of grand dimensions, the cost being estimated at ^ 1 50,000 s., contributed by local subscription. The chief autlrority is a Gefe Politico, and there is also a Judge of 1 . ^ Tnstancia; There are two priests, and seven doctors : Dr. Newkirk, a Canadian, is in good practice. There are national free schools for both sexes. Most of GOYA TO BELLA VISTA. 81 the inhabitants are rich estancieros. A public conveyance is hired out, for any part the traveller may wish to repair to. The country is thickly wooded in some parts, orange groves being numerous. There are two English carpenters in Goya ; one of them is called Don Pedro, and is one of the oldest inhabitants. There is a3Ir. Ramallon, native of Gibraltar. Both of the priests are Italians. The Basques have brick-kilns in the subiu-bs ; and many of the houses are two stories high. The streets are twenty yards wide. The police office is a handsome building. The public cemetery, about a mile distant, is well kept, with some fine monuments, and a hand- some chapel. Such is the general prosperity of this industrious town that the citizens of Corrientes jestingly term it «The little Buenos Ayres.» The principal trade of the place consists in hides, wool, cheese, and oranges. Orange groves are frequent, but the business is diminishing, while the excellent cheese is finding its way to the various ports «aguas abajo,)> a large quantity being sent to Buenos Ayres. Cotton would grow well here, the climate being warm and dry. Imports are received from Buenos Ayres. After a couple of leagues we pass a very picturesque locality, known as Rincon de Soto. Here is a large saladero, surrounded by a number of huts, and a fine bay admits vessels of some burthen to come close to the estab- lishment. It was built by 3Ir. Holterhoff, who bought the site from Govern- ment for $150. There is another saladero at work near Goya, belonging to a Mr. Otto. Not far inwards, about two leagues from Goya, is the ancient village of Santa Lucia, on a river of the same name : it was founded by the Jesuits, who built a stone church (the finest in the province) where the few neighbors still attend Divine service. A little further on is the ground marked out for a new town, Pueblo Lavalle, but as yet there is only a solitary house with an orange grove. We now coast along the mainland of Corrientes, which presents an elevation of perhaps 100 feet. The camps gradually become bare, and the familiar ombii, iu lonely grandeur, stands forth, the landmark of the Pampas. Wc pass the « embouchures)) of several rivulets with Indian names, none of which are navigable, although wide as European rivers, with luxuriant vegetation overshadowing their banks. Next comes the estancia of General Ferre, a tract of several leagues, which was granted to him mauy years ago on condition of planting it with coffee : he tried and failed, and then turned it into a cattle farm. The red sandstone bluff now ahead of us is a place called Las Cuevas, where the river at low tide is hardly a hundred yards wide. The Para- guayans erected a battery here in 1865, which inflicted serious injury oa 82 THE RIO DE LA PLATA. the Brazilian ironclads in forcing the pass. Here, in the year 1825, before the neighboring town of Bella Vista was formed, lived in utter solitude a Portuguese estanciero named Cueva, whose cattle tempted the rapacity of theHhaco Indians. A band of these deadly savages, on two occasions, swam across the narrow pass and attacked his house. The fearless old man and his son gave the Indians a galling reception from a skylight and window, through which they fired as fast as the daughters could load the blunderbusses, and thus succeeded in driving them off. During forty- three years they have never ventured another foray : the house and olive grove are distinctly seen from the river, crowning a headland, on doubling which we have Bella Vista in the distance. And well does Bella Vista merit its name, for the next hour's sail is one of the most delightful that can be imagined. A chain of steep cliffs, cut by the torrent, is broken at short and regular distances by numberless ^fissures caused by the rains. Yonder is the orange grove of Mr. Henry Hall, with its dark green outline against the horizon, and, as we approach, the files of trees are clearly discernible. Bella Vista, seated on a gentle slope, in the midst of tropical foliage, is a most charming picture. It was first peopled by a settlement of convicts, sent hither under General Ferre in 1826. It now contains about 1,000 inhabitants, having some azotea houses, a plaza, &c. Nestling in orange groves and palm trees are several small huts, thrown as if by chance on the hill-side, and commanding a grand view of the Parana and Gran Chaco. The natives may not have inherited the propensities of their forefathers, but, certes, they are wild-looking fellows. Bella Vista is eighteen leagues above Goya. We see, a little above the town, the scene of an attempted cotton plantation, started here by some enterprising Americans in 1853. Whether owing to a bad selection of soil, or mismanagement on the part of the mayordomo, the undertaking failed and was abandoned. A native family now resides there, who pulled up all the cotton to substitute oranges. We have to return two leagues to get the channel, and glide by the Gran Chaco. Now again islands, on which we can see carpinchos. We are now 800 miles from Buenos Ayres, in the heart of South American wilds. The river is still a majestic flood, two miles wide. Passing Empedrado, which is half-way between Bella Vista and Corrientes, we reach the mouth of the Biachuelo, famous for the great naval battle fought here on 1 1th June, 1865, between the fleets of Paraguay and Brazil. The former was much less than the latter in ships and weight of metal, but was aided by a shore battery of forty guns. The struggle lasted from daybreak till nightfall, and ended in the utter defeat of the CITY OF CORRIENTliS. 83" Paraguayans, who, however, displayed great bravery : over 2,000 men perished in the battle, the Paraguayans losing four steamers and the Brazilians having three vessels hors de combat. The vicinity of tlie Riachuelo is said to produce good tobacco ; and now we come abreast of Don Domingo Latorre's famous quinta, with its 5,000 orange trees, and^ picturesque «montes)) of cypress, poplar, &c. This is distant fromtlie capital^ five leagues by land, but the windings of the river make it seven. ?fearer to Corrientes is the quinta of the late ex-President Derqui, finely situated on the river bank. At this place the Chaco looms in the distance, with its dark fringe of impenetrable forests. Very little of Corrientes can be seen before lauding, or passing «aguas arriba.)) Corrientes covers a plateau elevated sixty feet over the water level, so that we can see little but the church-towers and the few irregular edifices situate on the slope. On the extreme right is a graceful country-house, belonging to Dr. Yidal : a large shrubbery leads up to the door,- and a corridor all around the house has an effect of comfort and elegance. The line of beach is studded with dusky washerwomen, perfectly regardless of the fact that the thermometer stands over ninety in the shade. There are scattered fragments of a dark etone, said to be very good for building, though not much used ; it looks like tosca, but is hard as granite. Beyond Vidal's quinta is a saladero, the present owner of which is a Correntino. A tanning establishment and timber yard form the centre of our picture, "with the Custom-house, Casa de Gobierno, several palm ranchos, and a sprinkling of orange trees to fill up the whole, giving a strange and not unpleasant aspect. Most of the houses have corridors, which cover in the whole footpath, the windows being barred as in Buenos Ayres. No block can be called complete, for palm ranchos and orange gardens • alternate with tile roofs and azoteas. The streets are about fifty feet wide. The plaza is much the same as it was three centuries ago : on the north side is the Matriz or principal church, an old edifice eighty yards long, with a tile- roof, and at a short distance a bell tower, seventy feet high, in which is the town clock. The west side contains the Cabildo, where the law courts and prison are guarded by a bare-footed picquet of Federal troops of the Line.. In front are two antique houses, one of two stories, and the Merced Church, not yet whitewashed, with two belfrys, and a cloister attached for Franciscan friars. The house of Seiior Pampin, ex-Governor, with a few others of less note, make up the south side, and a column some sixty feet high stands in the centre of a multitude of weeds, around which are wooden posts but no seats : the column is surmounted by a diminutive female armed with a lance, and bears the inscriptions, 25 de Mayo 1810, and 9 de Julfo 1816. g2 84 THE RIO DE LA. PLATA. On the pedestal are the busts of four generals. The Cabildo is a handsome structure, two stories Avith arches, supporting a square tower of Moorish build, Avhich commands a \iew of the country around. At the Hotel Globe Ave can procure a clean, airy apartment wherein to take « siesta. » The windows are of stained glass, with Venetian blinds. The cuisine is faultless for those who are not squeamish about garlic. The city forms a parallelo- gram of sixty or seventy cuadras, but is wholly different from anything European. There are about 1,500 palm ranclios, 200 tile roofs, and 100 azoteasof one or two stories; also, four steeples, three miradores, six flag- staffs, a few slender palms, and an infinity of orange trees, amid which the houses seem to nestle for protection from the sun. Corrientes is distant 270 leagues, or 900 English miles, from Buenos Ayres. On leaving Corrientes we can distinctly count the seven currents, which give the city its name ; they are formed by as many projecting points of land, above a place called La Batcria, a little north of the town. We now approach the Tres Bocas, the confluence of the rivers Paraguay and Upper Parana. The scenery about here is very fine. The Parana turns off at a right angle, eastward, and is navigable for steamers as high as the island and falls of Apipe. At the Paso la Patria is a ferry for carrying over cattle into Paraguay, and the woods on the Corrientes shore were the scene of some hard fighting in January 1866. iN^early opposite stood the Paraguayan fort of Itapiru, which formerly commanded the navigation of these waters : it was destroyed by the Brazilians in April 1866. Higher up on the Corrientes bank are the villages of San Cosmo, Itati, San Antonio, and Loreto ; near this last is a ford called Tranquera de Loreto. On the Para- guayan shore the ground is low, marshy, and uninhabited. At Itapua the river gives another bend, almost due north, and this is the point where the Paraguayans invaded Misiones, in May 1865, previous to their descent on Rio Grande. Opposite to Itapua is the Paraguayan station called Candelaria. The Parana may still be ascended in small boats as high as the great cataract of Salto de Guayra; but this part of the country is comparatively unexplored. The ruins of a town called Ciudad Real are still seen near the falls : from this point to the Tres Bocas is a distance of about 500 miles. Entering the Paraguay river at the Tres Bocas, we pass the Guardia Cerrito, where the Paraguayans had a battery, and in a few hours we reach Curupaity, where the Allies sustained a great reverse on the 22nd of September 1866. Every inch of ground was here disputed with immense sacrifice of life during more than two years, till the Paraguayans finally abandoned Huinaytd in July 1868. A bend of the river reveals to us this formidable position, which was defended by casern ated batteries, torpedoes, HUMAYTi TO ASU>'CI05. '85 and chains across the river. This place was the key to the upper rivers, and the garrison, before the war, usually numbered 12,000 men: the fortress was constructed by French engineers in re54, under the regime of the first Lopez. A little above Humaita, on the Chaco sida, we coma to the mouth of the Rio Vermejo, which is about 300 yards wide, and bordered by a dense thicket. Some of the Chaco Indians may often be seen about here, spearing fish. Villa Pilar is a pretty little town, with numerous orange-groves and a handsome church, about a mile from the shore. It is the chief town of a district which shewed a census-return of 160,000 inhabitants. Under the rule of Francia it was the commercial emporium of Paraguay, the city of Asuncion being shut to all foreigners. An hour's sail takes us to the mouth of the Tebicuari, a large river which rises in the Yerbales or wa'fe-fields of Misiones, and after a course of 400 miles falls into the Paraguay at this place. Just before the war President Lopez had sent to Europe for two light steamers to navigate the Tebiquary. Yilla Franca is a village of no importance : the surrounding district has only 10,000 inhabitants. Villa Oliva is another small place, with a church and public schools : here the steamers often take beef and firewood. And now we may observe shoals of alligators on either bank : sometimes as many as a dozen basking together in the sun, a few measuring seven or eight feet in length. They lie motionless, like a log of wood, »vith their jaws extended shewing two alarming rows of teeth. The body is scaly like a tortoise, with four short fin-like legs, and they glide into the water with great ease. Carpiuchos may be seen in close proximity, apparently on good terms with the «Yacares,» for this South American crocodile confines his tastes to fish. Villeta is a difficult pass of the river, about seven leagues below Asuncion. At times the water is so low that no vessels drawing over eighteen inches can pass. Tlie banks on the Paraguayan side rise as we proceed up stream, and the Paraguayans used to have a battery of a few guns commanding a bend of the river. The scenery is very diversified and tranquil, with stately palm-trees that stand forth at intervals to remind us of the tropics. The peak of Lambare is enchanting, with its cone-like elevation clad in luxuriant foliage, raising its lofty form to the clouds. The adjacent village S6 THE mo DE LA PLATA. of Lambare is a suburb to the capital, remarkable for its church and cemetery. ^ On the left bank is the mouth of the Pilcomayo, which ibises in Bolivia, near the city of Chuquisaca, traverses the Gran Chaco, and after a course of 1 ,500 miles, here falls into the Paraguay. There are two batteries at the turn before we get view of the arsenal and city of Asuncion. Asuncion, the Paraguayan metropolis, is a town of some 30,000 inhabitants ; it was founded by a Spanish captain named Ayolas, on August t5, 1536. There are some splendid public buildings, and excellent hotel accommodation is found at t!ie Club. The shops are poor, and all imported articles very dear. The railway to Villa Rica runs through a country unsurpassed for scenery. The traveller will find many delightful rides in the environs of Asuncion, and he should take a bath before sunrise at the Chorro. A description of the city and people will be given at full in the secti'on of this work devoted to Paraguay. Ascending the river to Matto Grosso, the first place beyond Asuncion is Villa Occidental, on the Chaco side, where a French colony was established by Lopez, but resulted unfortunately. We next pass the towns of Rosario and San Pedro, and the mouths of the Confuse, Jejuy, and Ypape rivers, arriving at Concepcion, 180 miles from Asuncion, The depth of the river varies from twenty to seventy feet, its width being from lialf a mile to a mile, and the banks usually about fifteen feet high. Concepcion is a town ^f 2,000 inhabitants, and the great port of the yerba-mate trade. Salvador is seventy miles above Concepcion, and has a population of 1,000 souls. From Salvador to Rio Appa is nearly 100 miles, the scenery being very beautiful near the ranges of Itapucu Guazii, and the country inhabited by Avarlike Indians. Here begins the disputed territory, which extends eighty miles north, as far as Rio Blanco, and is claimed by both Brazil and Paraguay on account of the important position of Fort Olympo. Fort Olympo is 420 miles above Asuncion, standing 45 feet above the river, which is here 600 yards wide : it forms a square of 100 feet, witli bastions for cannon, the walls being fourteen feet high and two and a-half thick, without embrasures. It was built by the Spaniards in 1798, garrisoned by Francia in 1822, abandoned by Lopez in 1850, again occupied in 1856, and afterwards seized in turns by Brazil and Paraguay. Before reaching Olympo is the picturesque mountain called Pan-de-azucai:, and live miles above the fort is Bahia Blanca,atthe mouth of the Rio Blanco. "We enter Brazilian territory at Salinas, and here the left bank is claimed "by Bolivia, while the right forms part of the province of Matto Grosso. ASUNCION TO CUYABA. 87 Fort Coimbra, inLat. 19.55.43, aud Long. 57-52.32, stands oa a hill of the same name, which slopes to the river : it is forty feet above the water level, and is a solid stone structure, completely commanding the river which is here 600 yards wide. The officers' quarters within the fort consist of small stone houses. All supplies are obtained from Albuquerque or the neighbouring ludians. The low lands for some distance above Coimbra are subject to inundation, but there are also some pieces of firm land, covered with excellent woods aud never overflowed except in seasons of extraordinary rise. The mountains are still insulated peaks or short ranges, probably spurs of the Bolivian sierras. The surrounding country is held by the Guaycuru Indians, whom the Brazilian Government treats with much conciliation. Coimbra is thirty-three miles above Fort Olympo. Albuquerque is an insignificant village of seventy houses, only useful for supplies of provisions, and 47 miles from Coimbra. Passing the mouth of the Tacuari we reach Corumba, sixty miles from Albuquerque, and 560 from Asuncion. This place sprung into importance with the introduction of steam traffic : it produces some good cotton. From Curumba to Cuyaba is nearly 400 miles, the course changing in Lat. 18, Long. 57.30, from the upper Paraguay to the river Cuyaba. The city of Cuyaba is capital of the province of Matto Grosso, residence of the President, Bishop, and other Brazilian functionaries, and a place of much importance. Tiiis is the highest point navigable in a steamer. Captain Bossi, in 1862, attempted to crossover to the head-waters of the Amazooas, but failed. The distance overland toRio JanejTO is 1200 miles, practicable on mules in about sixty days, but much infested by Indians, passing through a country of woods and mountains. The early Spaniards are known to have made the journey. A Brazilian expeditionary force left Rio Janeyro in 1865 ; most of the men perished on the route, the rest deserted to the woods. UP THE URUGUAY. The scenery of the Uruguay is the finest in these countries, and there is almost daily communication between Buenos Ayres and Salto: the steamers are elegant and commodious, and make the trip in 36 houi'S. As we cross the La Plata to ascend the Uruguay, the fine estancias of Martin Chico and San Juan are pointed out to the traveller; they are beautifully situated, and must some day become immensely valuable. Passing the Cerro San Juan we sight the island of Martin Garcia, the Gibraltar of the River Plate, which has anything but an imposing appearance. Two new fortifications are seen on the S. E. point, but there 88 THE RIO DE LA PLATA. are no guns on them. Facing the Argentine coast is a battery of nine guns, with soldiers' quarters. The place almost looks deserted, and the old batteries used in the war of 1859 are dismiatled. Bat ween the island and the Oriental coast only small craft can pass. The Argentine Congress in 1867 voted a considerable sum for the fort fication of the island. Iq the time of Rosas many of the prisoners confined here escaped by swimming a grey mare over to the mainland of Banda Oriental, the mare regularly swimming back again, till Rosas took her and shot her as an enemy tcr the State. Carmelo is the first town we sight and looks very pretty, seated on a bend of the river, but a good view is not obtained till we pass upwards. A small steamer calls here in connection with Colonia or Higueritas. The next thing we see is an old convent now used for an estancia-house. The scenery improves as we advance, the Entre-Riano coast being much lower than the Oriental. Nueva Palmira or Higueritas is on the eastern bank ; it is a small place, and has few attractions, except that it offers a convenient landing-place for passengers for the interior. There is a ' graseria,' for melting down sheep, belonging to Mr. Henry Zimmermann. At the mouth of the Rio Negro the scenery is interesting : here a small steamer meets us to take the passengers for Mercedes. Higher up we meet the Gualeguaychii steamer, forming another branch-line of the Uruguay service. As we proceed up the river the nature of the last great geological changes, that have occurred in this valley, becomes apparent from the facts noticeable. The Argentine side of the river is generally low, often marshy, as if recently redeemed from a deep lake, while the Uruguayan side is generally high and rocky. Along the bold rocky border of that old, immense lake, the waters were drained, and, washing the base of the bluff on its eastern border, at length formed the River Uruguay. On the Uruguayan shore the bed of the river is generally of granitic rocks, the channel is deeper, and, from the more solid formation, the ports are better. The rocks are chiefly granite, though in some parts, as for example near Salto, the action of the fire is more marked, and quartz is seen under all the modification made upon it by heating and cooling, and by slight admixtures of other rocks. In the interior of the country, 'geodes» are found in great abundance and of great beauty of structure. In the streams and along the rocky coasts, the sand is richly interspersed with pebbles of cornelian, agate, chalcedony, onyx, and jasper, all more or less pure, and some of them of great beauty. There is, probably, but one place BUEROS AYRES TO PAYSA?(DU. 89 •where such pebbles are so abundant, or so beautiful, or so lai*ge, and that is at St. Anthony on the Jlississippi river. Fray Bentos is a new town on the same side of the river, containing about 1,000 inhabitants. It is called sLxty leagues from Buenos Ayres : it is not attractive to the traveller, v>ho only beholds it from the deck of the steamer, but is said to be a place of considerable business. It is chiefly notevv'orthy for the fauious Liebig Extractum Carnis Factory, under the direction of I\Ij\ Giebert, >vliich Avas established in 1864, at a cost of i^200,000. It gives constant employment to 600 or 800 persons, and can kill 500 head of cattle per day. The machinery was made in Glasgow, and cost £45,000: it is the most complete and elaborate that can be imagined. The beef extract is made up in boxes of lOOU each, for shipment to Europe, where it is sold at £1 sterling per % weighty chiefly for hospital use. Roman is the name of a landing place, and also of a saladero near it, about seventy leagues from Buenos Ayres. The saladero is owned by Don Felipe Iglesias, and the town is little else than a group of irregularly built houses to accommodate the workmen. - It is. usually midnight when the steamer calls at Concepcion, the chief town of Entre Rios, which we shall visit on our return down the river. By daybreak we are at anchor in the port of Paysandii. Paysandii, eighty leagues from Buenos Ayres, contained before the civil war in that country 7,700 inhabitants. So great has been the activity of business, since the restoration of peace, that it is believed that the population now exceeds 10,000. -Sew houses are going up in all directions, and these are of a better class than the old ranches battered down in the bombardment. In the Department of Paysandii are five saladeros, two of these are in the city, one at Casa Blanca, one at Roman, and one at Fray Bentos. At each of these there are killed annually 40,000 to 50,000 animals, making from this department 200,000 to 250,000 animals in the year. The beef is salted and dried in thin, large slices, and it finds a market in Brazil and the West Indies. Hides are salted and go to Europe, chiefly to Antwerp and Liverpool, and the tallow goes by cargoes, in pipes, to England. There are no manufactories in Paysandii but sundry stores, and shops of shoemakers, tailors, waggon-makers, blacksmiths, «fec. Hotels, La Paz and La Francia ; charge, Sl| per day. Labor is dear both for house and farm service, the poorest laborer receiving, at the lowest, $16s. per month. And so rapid is the increase of population by immigration that all kinds of marketing are as dedr as at Buenos Avtcs. Don Miguel Horta, the principal shopkeeper, is Spanish vice-consul, and his house is the 90 THE RIO DE LA. PLATA. rendezvous of all English estancieros. Some pleasant excursions may be made to the neighboring estancias of Col. Mundell, Plowes, Hughes, Green, and Bell, to the saladero at Arroyo Negro, to Messrs. Paris and Sloper's beef-packing establishment, to AVilliam's saladero, and by boat to the Swiss colony across tlie Uruguay. From Paysandii to Salto is the finest part of the river : the scenery is varied and beautiful. A league above the town is Mr. William's saladero, where they tried «the Morgan system,)) in 1866, with beef and mutton. At the Hervidero we pass a large establishment belonging to Mr. Richard Hughes, with the Union Jack flying from the battlements : it is a two-story house built over twenty years ago by a Company, of which Mr. Lafone formed part, and had a saladero, now in ruins, and an estancia with over 1 00,000 cows and sheep. The Mesa de Artigas is a bold headland just over the river. Here General xVrtigas encamped his army in the War of Independence, and tradition says he threw his Spanish prisoners hence, sewed up in hides, into the river. After passing the estancia Delicias and other valuable establishments belonging to foreigners, we reach the dangerous pass of Corralitos. This reef or archipelago of rocks has but one narrow and tortuous channel, and is impassable by night. Sailing vessels cannot pass but with the most favorable wind, and we see coasting craft at anchor in front of the old port of Concordia, which is nearly a league below that town. In high water the Corralitos are covered, but often the river is so low that the buoys are high and dry. You cannot see Concordia from here, but there is a «casilla)) at the new port, and coaches are in waiting to convey passengers to the town. We have now a fine view of Salto at the head of the river, about three miles above, covering three or four hills, with large white edifices, and apparently a town of great extent. Salto (Hotel Concordia) is 110 leagues from Buenos Ayres : it is a very flourishing place, with 9,000 inhabitants, one half of whom are Italians. The town has a bustling aspect, new buildings going up on all sides. The view is very picturesque in every direction. The city stretches out much to the north, the new town laid out by Mr. Coleman being already thickly settled. The situation is charming, the Uruguay bathing the declivities of the ' cuchillas ' which run down in almost parallel lines, the white buildings studding the hill-sides, and clumps of brushwood fringing the outskirts. It is the headquarters of all frontier trafiic to Bio Grande and Corrientes, and the Brazilian Government is in treaty with a London firm for a railway to Uruguayana and San Borja. The Salto Chico is about a mile above the town, and sometimes quite dry : the Salto Grande SALTO TO URUGUAYA5A. 91 higher up is a barrier to navigation in almost all periods. On the east side of the Plaza is the church, an unpretending structure with two towers, one of which has a town-clock (the weights are of sand) : inside, it is quite bare, and can hardly hold 800 persons. ]N'ext door is the Curia, a fine house with ornamental front. On the south side stands the Comandancia, imitation of Grecian architecture, and a few yards off is the Imprenta, from which issues, twice a week, the Eco de los Lihres. Some of the public works are a decided failure, viz., the wharf of granite which has already cost 60,000 hard dollars, and can never be of use except in extraordinary high tides, whereas an iron mole might have been run out into the river at a cost of 40,000. A little below the town is a tan yard, and further down was tlie Brazilian encampment in 1865. Salto is reputed a very healthy place, the only epidemic ever known being small-pox. The water here, as in all other parts of the Uruguay, has a mellifluous taste. Mr. Richard AVilliams, oue of the oldest British residents in the River Plate, has a handsome residence, commanding a view of the Uruguay, and Concordia on the opposite bank. He has a fine collection of pebbles and crystal- lizations : these stones come from the CeiTO de Catalanes near the river Cuareim, where agate is found in abundance, and some collections have been sent to England, and appreciated by lapidaries? A German explorer with a number of workmen collected quite a cargo, but died when about to return to Europe. There are not many English estancias, excepting those of Mr. Williams, near Salto. In times of very high water, a steamer (drawing three feet) goes up the falls to Uruguayana : the distance is about 150 miles, and the scenery "well repays the journey. After passing the falls we coast alternately the shores of Entre Rios and Banda Oriental, on both of which there are many large cattle estancias. Some leagues above Concordia is the Arroyo Yuqueri, where Gen. Mitre established his headquarters when the Paraguayan war first broke out. A range of hills called Puntas de Mandisobi, twelve leagues from Concordia, was subsequently Gen. Flores's rendezvous before the battle of Yatay. Not far hence is the village of Federacion, and nearly opposite, in Banda Oriental, is another, called Constitucion. A stream debouching on our left, called the 3Iocoreta, is the frontier line between Entre Rios and Corrieutes ; and ten leagues higher, on the right, we come to Santa Rosa, at the frontier of the Brazilian province of Rio Grande : this place is thirty leagues above Salto, and has vis-a-vis the Correntino village of Monte-Caseros. Twenty leagues further is the important town of Uruguayana, at a pass 92 THE RIO DE LA PLATA. of the river, called Paso de los Libres. A line of diligences formerly ran from this place to Concordia, and another on the Brazilian side, from Uruguay ana to Salto. At present railways are projected, one on each side of the river, as the falls at Salto are a bar to all commerce by water. Uruguayana was founded in 1843, and was a thriving frontier town previous to the war ; it had about 10,000 inhabitants: it was the centra of the trade of this part of Rio Graii:l2. In 1865 the Paraguayans took it and held it for some time, till the allied generals closely invested the place, and the Paraguayan commander surrendered to Dom Pedro in person. The town was found to be in a dreadful condition ; but it is now fast recovering its prosperity. The Uruguay is here half-a-mile across. Twenty leagues higher up is the Correntino village of La Cruz, and two leagues further, on the Brazilian shore, stands the town of Itaqui, Avhich ■was also taken by the Paraguayans in their descent on Rio Grande. A battle occurred near a rapid river above the town, in which the Brazilians were worsted, obliging them to abandon Itaqui. Twenty-five leagues further on, are the towns of Santo Tome and San Borja. The former is in Lat. 28.20, and Long. 58.10. : it is the chief town of the Misiones of Aguapey (Corrientes) . Exactly opposite is San Borja (Rio Grande) : the' country around is rich and populous. The distance across Misiones, to Itapua on the Upper Parana, is 38 leagues. We have now ascended 100 leagues from Salto, and the traveller may still continue his explorations in Misiones. The return voyage from San Borja to Salto will occupy a day and a-half . If we cross the Uruguay river below the falls from the eastern to the "western side, we shall find Concordia, an Argentine city of the province of Entre Rios, and nearly opposite Salto. The present war, during the months when Concordia was the headquarters of the army, added greatly to the business and Avealth of the city. There is at Concordia one saladero which uses about 50 ,000 animals in the 'faena' (cattle and horses). This is the property of A. Bcnites and Co. : the city counts about 5,000 inhabitants, and is a place of considerable business. Rents and wages are high, and good houses are not easily found to rent. Colonia de San Jose, twenty-four leagues below Concordia, is a colony of Swiss and German immigrants, numbering about ^,500 persons. The town itself is only the few houses needed at the landing, for tlie people are agriculturists, raising wheat, maize, potatoes, &c. Concepcion del Uruguay, nine leagues lower down the river, is at present the capital of the province of Entre Rios. The anchorage of steamers is near the shore, but the landing is so far away from the city as THE SAL ADO AND VERMEJO. 93 to leave but little opportunity to see the toTvn from the steamer. There are said to be 5,000 inhabitants. The princely residence of General Urquiza is seven leagues distant, at San Jose. At Concepcion are two saladeros, but there are no manufactories. The possessions of General Urquiza are immense. One-third part of the land of the province is called his. From the River Gualeguaychu to Victoria, eighty leagues, you may not go off the lands of the Captain General. The annual product from so much land, stocked Tvith cattle, horses, and sheep, must be very great. THE SAL.ADO AND VERMEJO. These two rivers belong to the Gran Chaco territory, and are generally considered navigable, although many obstacles have been met with in the expeditions sent for their exploration. The Bio Salado rises in the upper provinces, passes through Santiago del Estero, and falls into the Parana just above Santa Fe city. A Spanish gentleman named Esteban Rams Rupert devoted many years and a large amount of money to the scheme of canalising this river. His first expedi- tion was at the close of 1862, and he narrates it in these words — «We left the Colony of Esperanza on the 31st December, in the dii'ection of Concepcion del Tio, in the Province of Cordova : from this point we followed the road called De las Tropas, due north, until arriving at the town of Salavina, in Santiago. Then, striking out east, we reached Fort Bracho, on the banks of the Salado, on the 19th January. The engineer at once began his survey of the river, from Navicha to the Boca de Matara, tshich, along with the marshes, covers a superficies fifteen leagues in length by three or four in breadth. This is the only part of the river requiring heavy w orks to make the navigation clear, to Sepulturas. The engineer's reports, confirming and amplifying previous ones, are already nearly complete. The annual rise this time came as high as the Boca de Matard, on the night of the 30th December, and when I arrived at Matara, on the 23rd January, I found the river in front of this place fifteen feet deep for a Avidth of eighty-two feet. I left a meter there, in charge of the commander, and on my return on the 4th of February found that the water had, in the interval, suffered a maximum rise of four inches, and fall of foul' and a-half inches, making thus a difference of half an inch in twelve days, and its actual depth being fifteen feet and nine inches. This shows there is plenty of Avater to navigate the Salado, the sole difliculty being to run a canal from Boca de Matara to Navicha, a distance of fifteen leagues, as there is not the least obstacle between Navicha and Santa Fe. The 94 THE RIO DE LA PLATA. levels taken prove the possibility, nay, the facility, of avoiding Lhe marshes, and conveying the whole current down to Navicha.» Baron Aland provided funds, pending the formation of a company in England, and Mr. W. H. Cock began the works in 1863. The Baron, however, found it impossible to get up the company, owing to the Flore s revolution of April 1864, and, after a year (December 1864), Mr. Cock received orders to suspend operations: his report on the works is as follows :• — «The Cauce Viejo (old bed), whose course was hardly known before my arrival here, owing to its frequent windings through impenetrable thickets, is now quite cleared of trees from Bracho Viejo (La Fragua) as far as two leagues beyond Navicha, a distance of fifteen leagues, now rendered quite navigable, all the old roots and trees being completely removed. The rest only requires a few workmen, for a couple of months, to render it fit for navigation, by burning the trunks and boughs felled on the banks, which are now so dry as easily to ignite. Beyond Navicha (except two leagues, which I have already said are clear) there is little wanting to be done, and with the staff of navvies under my orders I could have finished it by the end of February — so that the Rio Salado would have possessed a continuous canal free from all obstacles, and requiring no further works, to permit the passage of a small steamer as high up as Bracho Yiejo. A little canal, eighteen feet wide (six and a-half varas) has also been opened from the Lagunas del Bracho to the bed of the river, with the view of giving tho river an additional flow of water, and draining the marshes so as to be enabled to commence the canalization works across the Estero del Bracho some months earlier than usual. During my stay in this place I have devoted all my attention to a careful study of the various projects feasible for making a canal through the Estero del Bracho to the Boca de Matara : my assistant Mr. Charles Albeck has also been busy in taking levels ,and drawing plans for the same purpose. I now possess all the necessary data for this important section of the works, so as on finishing the plans, to be able to point out the best and most economical route for the canal.)) But Mr. Rams never despaired : he contrived to carry on the work in a small way, and in July 1865 he obtained from Congress a renewal of his concession, for three years longer, to date from December 31 , 1866. The Government was to establish a port at any suitable point between Navicha and Bracho, guaranteeing Rams nine per cent, on the outlay of the enterprise, and allowing him an exemption from half-export duties during thirty years. In March 1866 he obtained a concession from the Santa Fe Government, NAVIGATION OF THE S.\LADO. 95 for the introduction of 5,000 immigrant families to be settled along the Rio Salado ; the Government giving him a square league of land for every four families. Mr. Rams had some iron lighters buUt by Marshal of Barracas, and was almost ready to start for the Salado, when he was cut off by cholera, in April 1867. The enterprise, however, was not suffered to faU through, but in the following month Mr. Seuorans started from Buenos Ayres. After a voyage of three months and a-half he returned to Santa Fe with his expetlition, having nothing to lament except the death of a young man named Piran. The expedition reached a point some hundi-ed and eighty miles above Monte Aguara, at which latter place the River Salado takes a great bend to the Avest, just before entering into the province of Santiago del Estero. Mr. Seuorans thus examined and went over that part of the river whick Captain Page was unable to explore, owing to his steamer drawing too much water. The river, during the whole time occupied by the expedition, was pretty high— sixteen feet of water often being found, so that the theory of the navigation of the Salado by small steamers towing «chatas)) was thus fully established, and even if this navigation be only practicable during six or seven months of the year, it is still of the very greatest importance, as it will facilitate the settlement of the lands on either side of the river. Mr. Seuorans was successful in gaining the good will of the various tribes of Indians on his route. All the caciques of the river came to visit him, and he made treaties with many of them. The principal cacique, Mariano, was not seen, as he lives a considerable way in the interior, but about a dozen other chiefs presented themselves, accom- panied by a vast number of their people. It appears that about Monte Aguara the Indian tribes are much more numerous than it has generally been supposed. Mr. Seuorans took with him a large quantity of presents, and distributed them very liberally — clothes being given to almost all. They were very much afflicted to hear that their old friend and ' padrino,' Mr. Rams, was dead. They all asked for his portrait, and brought up children by the score, whom they stated Mr. Rams was god-father to. A good trade can be made with these various tribes of Indians, and it is probable many of them could be made useful in cutting timber. The expedition reached Fortin Taboada w ithout any difficulty, and might have proceeded further on, but much time had already been expended, and provisions were running short, as they had not calculated on the necessity of furnishing food to the large numbers of Indians who conti- nually accompanied the expedition. The reason of this equivocal guard of honor was probably two-fold — first, curiosity and greed, and secondly, 96 THE BIO DE LA PLATA. suspicion of the whites and of their objects. They could not understand why all the people of the steamers invariably attended divine service fully armed. They said that the Padres never did it. There was evidently anything but good will at first, but it appears that Mr. Seilorans at last insinuated himself into their confidence, and gained their friendship. Although plenty of water was always found, the sharp turns of the river impeded the navigation to a large extent. Then the delays of cutting wood, and the conferences with the Indians, caused a vast time to be lost. Once thoroughly established, the navigation, with wood ready cut at stated points, the steamers can run up to Fortin Taboada in six or seven days. It is stated that the timber on the river is very abundant, and of a valuable quality. The «chatas)) returned loaded with various kinds, amongst which are specimens of excellent ebony. Two young Englishmen Avho accompanied the expedition returned well and hearty. Mr. Seilorans encountered in one place a number of dead men. He buried them decently. It was supposed that they belonged to 'the Salta contingent that mutinied in the Parana and fled into the "Ghaco. As nothing was ever heard of them it is probable they all perished either by hunger or by the Indians. Since the return of this expedition (September 1867) no other has gone up the Salado, and it. may be presumed that no efforts for its further navigation will be made till the termination of the Paraguayan war. The Rio Vermejo rises in Bolivia, and, after a tortuous course of 1 ,200 miles through the forests of the Chaco, falls into the River Paraguay near the fortress of Humayta. The first expedition to navigate its waters was in 182G, when some Englishmen and Buenos Ayreans 'successfully descended the river: they were, however, taken prisoners I)y Francia, tyrant of Paraguay, and kept in captivity for many years. In 1856, Jose Maria Arce, a Bolivian, accompanied by an Irish sailor named William Martin, safely descended from Oran to Corrientes . Seuor Arce made four voyages after- wards, the last in November 1863, on this occasion losing two men, killed by Indians. He brought 150 tons cargo and 10 passengers, including his brother, Dr. Arce (with two secretaries), who had credentials from the Bolivian Government as Minister Plenipotentiary to the Argentine and Para- guayan cabinets: his principal business being to make treaties for the navigation of the Pilcomayo. President Lopez would not make any treaty on the subject, as he declared the Vermejo and Pilcomayo belonged exclu- sively to Paraguay. Arce, in his last voyage, found the Vermejo noNvhere less than five feet deep, his vessels drawing only twenty-seven inches ; but iR many places the boughs of trees obstructed the navigation. NAVIGATIO:X OF THE VERMEJO. 97 111 February 1863, Lavarello's expedition started from Buenos Ajres, on board the steamer Gran Chaco. After some delays to repair she at last entered the River Vermejo on April 18th. One of the party writes as follows : — «Our progress was very slow, for several reasons. We were obliged to stop rather more than half the time for the purpose of cutting and loading wood for fuel. The course of the river changes five or six times every league, so that Captain Lavarello reckons one thousand bends from Esquina Grande to the mouth of the Vermejo. Owing to this tortuous course, and the danger of missing the channel at night, added to the strong currents of the river, and the small power of the engine, we could only navigate by daylight, and came to anchor early every evening. We were soon delayed several days by heavy rains, preventing the crew from cutting ■wood, and causing nearly all on board, officers and men, to fall sick of a tercian fever or ' chucho,' induced by moisture and exposure. The steamer was converted iuto a hospital, and from lack of medical knowledge many suffered severely and for several weeks. Of thirty persons on board, more than twenty were sick at once, and we were detained more than twenty days from lack of hands to man the vessel. At last our provisions became exliausted, one article after another, so that we should actually have suffered from hunger, had we not succeeded occasionally in obtaining a sheep, a kid, or a pair of chickens, from the Indians. The Indians also rendered us most essential services by assisting us to cut and load wood, and by hauling us loose, with ropes, when we occasionally became stuck upon sand banks. We saw great numbers of Indians, thirty or forty different bands, in number ranging from ten or twenty up to one hundred.)) At last they reached Rivadavia colony in July, and the expedition returned to Buenos Ayres early in 1864. Just then President Lopez sent to Europe for two small steamers, to navigate the Vermejo and Pilcomayo, but the war soon after ensuing the enterprise was prevented. At present (November 1868), there is a petition before Congress from Messrs. Lezica and Lanuz, in connection with the Vermejo, which they propose to open to navigation as soon as the war terminates. 98 ITINERARIES OF THE REPUBLIC. CHAP. YIII ITINERAT^IES OF THE REPUBLIC. The highways of the Argentine Republic are pretty much as Nature made them, consisting merely of a beaten track across the Pampas. They were formerly much better as regards post-houses and relays of horses than at present. General Urquiza devoted much attention to tliis matter ; but since the Paraguayan war the Indians have made such frequent incursions that the overland route from Rosario to Chile, or the upper provinces, is attended with much inconvenience, for want of horses at the post-houses along the roads. In the Province of Buenos Ayres the Northern, Western, and Southern railways offer speedy and commodious transit, in connection with «diligences)) ramifying the campafia in all directions. In Entre Rios there is also easy communication by the river steamboats, and a regular line of ttdiligences.)) In Corrientes there is no other way of travelling in the interior but on horseback. The Central Argentine Railway, from Rosario to Villa Nueva, is the great highway to the upper provinces. At Villa Nueva two main routes strike out north and west ; the first goes to Cordoba, Santiago, Tucuman, and Salta ; the second to San Luis, Mendoza, and San Juan. The railway from Rosario to Cordoba will be 247 miles long when finished : at present the section open to traffic, to Villa Nueva, is about 170 miles. The first thirty- three miles from Rosario are slightly undulating and destitute of timber, till we approach the English settlement of Frayle Muerto, when the country assumes a wooded aspect, with picturesque park vistas and an abundance of algarroba and other line trees. The line crosses two rivers ; the CarcarailA, about ten leagues from Rosario, and the Tercero, about twenty- three leagues further. (This route will be described at length in the chapter on the Central Argentine Railway). TO TUCUMAX AND SALTA. 99 NORTHEIC!? ROUTE. The ((diligences)) from Villa IVueva to Salta traverse a route of 215 leagues, the number of days employed varying, according to the weather, the state of the roads, post-houses, horses, &c. The itineraryis as follows, in Spanish leagues : — Villa >'ueva, . H Tio Pugio, 4 Chauares, 2* Espinillo, . 2i Desgraciado, . 2i Uncativo, .... 5 3Iendez, 3 Moyano, . 2| Eio Seguudo, . 2i Geromito, 3 Cordoba, .... 4 Bajo del Rosario, 3 Guerra, H Salitre, . 5i Tala, 3i Divisadero, 5i Qntiquan, .... 3f Santa Cruz, 3* San Pedro, 4 Carril, 2i Piedritas, .... H Pozo del Tigre, 4 Portezuela, .... . . . . 2i Horquetas, 2i Aquila, .... . . . . H Guardia, H Paesto del Monte, 3i Chilue, 5f Lago Chaquin Nodri, . . . 2 Altamique, H Canada, 3 Loreto, .... H Machani, .... 2i Alpapuja, 2i Mano Gasla, 2f Cardoso, .... 3f Santiago, .... 2i Bella Vista, .... 2i Tipiro, .... 3| Chauchillo, .... 2i Sotelitos, 3| Pozuelos, 4i Bagual, 2 Tres Pozos, .... .... 2f Favorina, .... 4f Tucuman, .... 3i Chailar, .... 3i Ramada, .... 4i Puesto, .... If Borriaco, 3 Chileu, 3 Laguna de los Rot des, I| Ojos de Agua, bi Cauas, 21 Madriaga, .... ^ Mojaras, 4 Santas, 3 Conchas, .... 3f Piedras, .... 6i Pasaje, .... 8 Simbolar, H Ramada, .... .... 5f Salta, 21 From Villa ]N'ueva to Cordoba is about seventy-eight miles, through dense forests of (calgarroba.)) At Chauares there are excellent springs of water, 'iOO ITINERARIES OF THE REPUBLIC. and a mile further on we reach the magnificent lake of El Aguada. About two miles from here are the well-known springs of Ojo de Agua. For several leagues the lands are now very inferior, owing to the abundance of wbiscachos,)) which have burroAved about in all directions. The Rio Seguudo is a river 250 yards wide, from one (cbarrancaw to the other ; but in dry seasons the stream is only thirty yards across. Two horses and twelve bullocks are often used to drag the «diligence)) through*the river. After passing through another «algarroba» Avood, Ave at last reach the city of Cordoba. Cordoba is the heart of the Republic ; it is famous for its delightful climate, and is situate in the midst of an amphitheatre of hills. Tlie popu- lation is estimated at 20,000;' the best inn is the Hotel de Paris. The traveller Avill find much to interest him in the old churches, the university, and other public buildings. If he make an excursion to the Sierras he Avill iind capital shooting. From Cordoba the route offers little of interest, till Ave reach Santiago : it passes through the villages of Chafiar, Altamisque, and Loreto, skirting the desert of Salinas : the only rivers met Avith are, the Rio Primero after leaving Cordoba, and the Rio Dulce before arriving at Santiago. Santiago del Estero is a delapidated town of 8,000 inhabitants, Avitli a privileged climate: it stands in lat. 27.46, and long. 64.22. Tlie Govern- ment-house and three churches are worth visiting. This town is ninety leagues north of Cordoba. From Santiago to Tucuman is tAventy-eight leagues, the route crossing ■the Rio Dulce. Nothing can exceed the fertility of the Province of Tucu- man, the garden of South America, rich in every product of the tropical or temperate zones. The city of Tucuman stands on a Avell-Avooded plain, 358 leagues N.W. of Buenos Ayres, Avith a population of 12,000 souls: it is situate on a branch of the Rio Dulce, and is famous for the declaration of Independence, 9th July, 1816. From Tucuman to Salta is sixty-nine leagues, through a diversified country of hill ranges and rivers, for we are noAV in the region of the Andes. This Avas formerly the highway from Buenos Ayres to Lima. The townof Salta Avas founded in 1582, and its present population is about 10,000. The traveller may still go tAventy leagues further north, to Jujuy , which is the last Argentine province, and borders on Bolivia. The tOAvn is insignificant ; but some salt is produced from the neighboring «salinas,)) and the discovery of petroleum seems to be an acknoAvlcdged fact. The navigation of the Yermejo Avill open up the resources of this remote province. TO SAN LUIS AISD MENDOZA. 101 WESTERN ROUTE. The Western route goes due west from Villa Nueva to Mendoza, thea strikes off due north, skirting the foot of the Andes, to San Juan. The itinerary is as follows : — Villa Nueva, 3 Cerrillos, . 4i Cabral, .... ... 3i San Luis, . 4i Cauada de Luque, ... n Tisera, . H Totoral, 4 Chosraes, .... , . . . H Guanacho, .... H Cabra, . Ui Tarabito, 6 Villa de la Paz, .. i\ Chucull, 4 Dorraida, . 4i Eio Cuarto, .... 6i Santa Rosa, .... f 6i Ojos de Agua, . . . . 3i Retamo, 9 Barranquita, 3i Mendoza, 6 Achiras, .... H Jujuli, .... . n\ Portezuelo, .... H Guanacache, . . . 8i Morro, .... ... 3i Posito, .... . 3i Lorro, .... ... 4i Rio Quinto, 5| San Juan, .... . . 149 ?roni Villa Nueva to Rio Cuarto is twenty-seven leagues, and now we enter on a territory very much exposed to Indian forays ; the road from Rio Cuarto traversing a wild and desolate tract of forty leagues, till reaching the town of San Luis. San Luis has almost disappeared from the map, partly owing to its constant civil Avars, and partly to the Indians. The whole province has only a handful of inhabitants ; the city of San Luis is mostly composed o^ mud huts. It has its governor, legislature, (fcc. From San Luis to Mendoza is 50 leagues, still through the desert. The road crosses the Desaguadero, before reaching the village of La Paz, and at last reaches Mendoza, at the base of the giant Cordillera. Mendoza Avas destroyed by earthquake, March 20th, 1861, but is now partially rebuilt. Its chief importance arises from its passes over the Andes into Chile, and its communication Avith San Juan and Rosario. The journey from IMendoza across the Cordillera of the xVndes, to Santa Rosa, the first toAvn met Avith on the Chilian side, can be done in four to six days mounted on a good mule, which may be hired from 3^ to §10. In summer it is a most pleasant journey, and to those Avho have not seen the Cordillera scenery in all its grandeur it must prove a very interesting trip, but the traveller must not attempt it betAveen the 1st of ]^Iay and 1st J 02 ITINERABIES OF THE REPUBLIC. of November following, as the pass ((La Cumbre» is generally closed and the entire road covered with snow to a depth of several yards. The «temporales» are most frequent in that season, and come down with terrific force. There is a weekly coach to San Juan, fare §13 ; the distance is 32 leagues, through a very wild and mountainous country. A gentleman who recently made the trip from Rosario to San Juan gives the following notes of his journey : — «The distance from Rosario to San Juan is computed about 280 leagues, the towns through which the coach passes being as follows :^— Leagues. Days, i Guardia Esquina, 24 1 San Luis, Saladillo, § 16 Mendoza, Frayle 3ruerto, 10 1 San Juan, Eio Cuarto, .... 50 2 Achiras, .... 19 1 Total, Morro, 13 1 ((From Rosario to Rio Cuarto the country Leagues. 25 Days 1 75 3 48 2 .... 280 12 is mostly level, the camps good and abounding in pasture termed 'pasto fuerte.' Ret ween Saladillo and Rio Cuarto timber is very plentiful. Passing the last- named place the surface becomes broken and the views on all sides mountainous. In succession we skirt along the Sierras de Cordoba, Morro, and San Luis. Nothing can be more picturesque than the situation of Achiras, Morro, and SanXuis, but the constant fear of the Indians effectually prevents any improvement in these towns. The river separating the provinces of San Luis and Mendoza is called Desagua- dero, and there is a village of the same name. The road from San Luis thither is remarkable, traversing in its whole length large forests of algorroba, quebracho and other species o£ timber, all hard wood. It is as straight as an arrow for twenty leagues of its length, and is forty yards "Wide. It is without exception the finest road in the Republic, and if a little care were bestowed on it, would be at once a wonder and a model. From Desaguadero to Mendoza is fifty-five leagues. Here tlie aspect of the country is different from anything, yet seen, the land on all sides being cultivated. The road is lined on either side by poplars, far as the eye can reach, and the cultivation being by means of artificial water drains well distributed, the surrounding vegetation is quite astonishing, and only comparable to that of the islands of the Parana. The extent of land under agriculture in Mendoza is found to exceed 60,000 cuadras (200,000 acres) chiefly occupied by alfalfa, vines, and cereals. The principal industry ME>DOZA TO SA.>' JUA^. 103 consists in fattening cattle for the Chilian markets : they enclose the animals in a field of alfalfa, which Avhen eaten down, they turn them into another. What appears almost incredible, though true, is that an alfalfa field once sown, requires no further labor thai irrigation, and will yield abundant crops of pasture for forty years or more. The amount cultivated in San Juan is 35,000 cuadras (120,000 acres) sown, as in Mendoza, for the most part with alfalfa, vines, and cereals, and here also the chief business is fattening cattle f^r Chile. The mountains on all sides abound in minerals : lead, silver, copper, and gold. There are also three coal mines in Huerta,Pie de Palo, and Jachal, which have not yet been worked, but are proved to contain rich and plentiful deposits : the abundance of timber has almost rendered the consumption of coal unnecessary. The city of San Juan is well built and presents a pleasing aspect. Many of its streets are w ell paved, and each house has its own supply of water by means of a canal communicating with the Rio San Juan. The outskirts are charming, the city being surrounded by small mountain chains descending from the great Andes. » From San Juan the traveller may make excursions to the silver mines of Marayes and Hilario ; or continue his course further north to Rioja and Catamarca. Rioja is about forty leagues from San Juan. The province has been made a howling wilderness by the incessant civil wars ; it contains much mineral wealth undeveloped. The town of Rioja is at the foot of the Andes. Catamarca is about forty leagues beyond Rioja : the province is rich in mineral and agricultural products. Messrs. Lafone and Carranza are the chief miners. There is a good business in fattening cattle for Chile. Tobacco, wine, and fruits are raised in great quantities. In 1864 the Congress authorized an emission of eight per cent Ronds'for the construction of roads and bridges through the Republic. The eminent firm of Docwra, Wells, and DaAvson, of London had made proposals, but subsequently declined to take the Ronds for security. Nevertheless some roads were commenced by Government, th^ local contractors taking the bonds at fifty percent., viz: — Concordia to Restauracion, San Luis to Cerrillos, San Luis to San Juan, San Juan to Rioja, San Juan to Tontal and Chile, Cordoba to Rioja, Cordoba to Famatina, Salta to Tucuman, Salta to Jujuy, Salta to the Rio Vermejo, Cordoba to Catamarca. Besides these there are thirty-one roads projected, as follows ; — Jujuy — A road to Bolivia, with two or three bridges over rapid rivers. Another to unite the chief town with some port on the Rio Vermejo. lOi ITINERARIES OF THE REPUBLIC. Salta — Continuation of the road to Palo Santo, and those of Jujuy and Tucuman. Tucumati — Continuation of the great Northern route to Santiago. A new road direct to Catamarca by the Cuesta Totaral. Catamarca — Branch to Santiago, and road to Copiapo, with houses of refuge, to ensure constant communication with Chile even in winter. The Totoral to be prolonged to Rioja, and a direct line drawn to Cordoba. Rioja — AVaggon-roads to Cordoba and San Juan ; aijother across the Llanos to San Javier in Cordoba, for junction with the grand western route. Post-houses and fresh water must be provided along these roads. San Juan — Roads to Rioja and Copiapo, with houses of refuge in the Cordillera. The Mendoza road to be deviated, and the Cordoba one improved. Mendoza — The Uspallata pass to Chile to be provided with the proper number of houses of refuge for transandine travellers. San Luis — ^Road to Rioja, forming junction with that of the Llanos. Cordoba — Deviation and improvement of the great North highway to Santiago. Carriage-way across the Sierra, to meet that of the Llanos to Rioja. Santiago — Improvement of Sunchales route, and the central road through the Gran Chaco coming out in front of Corrientes. Santa Fe — Junction with the Santiago road, and direct road to Cordoba, •with a bridge over the Carcaraila. Corrientes — Road from Restauracion to Misiones, and from the latter district to the city of Corrientes. Entre-Rios — Highway to Corrientes, passing through La Paz. Buenos Ayres — One or two bridges over the Arroyo Medio en route for the province of Santa Fe. A complete postal system on the West and South frontiers. ^ PROJECTS A>'D CONCESSION'S. ' 105 CHAP. IX. ENTERPRISES, PROJECTS, AND CONCESSIONS. Consequent on the pacification of the Republic in 1861, a number of important enterprises sprung up, many of which were protected by Government guarantee and monopoly. Some have been already completed or are in train, others fell through, either owing to want of capital or to the renewal of hostilities in these countries in 1865. Others still remain as projects, waiting only a favorable occasion for realization. The Central Argenti.ne Railway, from Rosario to Cordoba, 247 miles, was first projected in 1853, under General Urquiza's administration. On the 5th September 1862, a concession was made by Congress in favor of Mr. Wheelwright, which, as subsequently amended, stood thus — 1. The cost of the line not to exceed £6,400 per mile. 2. The land necessary for the line to be given by Government; also, a grant of a league of land on each side along the line. 3. Government guarantee of 7 per cent, interest for forty years on cost ef construction. .4. The line to be finished within six and a-half years. The works were inaugurated in April 1863, and although some delay was caused by the Paraguayan war the line is noAV running to Yilla Nueva, 170 miles, and will be finished to Cordoba in 1869. There is a project to continue the railway to Tucuman and across the Andes, for which purpose Seuor Moneta, Government engineer, made surveys in June 1868. 106 PROJECTS AND CONCESSIONS. The Southern Railway, from Buenos Ayres to Chascomus, is 72^ miles long, the concession from the Buenos Ayres Legislature to Mr. Edward Lumb bearing date 1 1th June 1862. 1 . The cost of the line was put down at £10,000 per mile. 2. The Buenos Ayres Government guaranteed 7 per cent, for forty years on the cost. 3. If the line be prolonged to Dolores (eighty miles further south) the same guarantee will be given. 4. The railway to be exempt from all tax for forty years. The Legislature refused to admit the cost of construction at more than X700,000, whereupon the guarantee on the additional sum of £25,000 was collectively given by the following merchants : Messrs. Thomas Armstrong, John Fair, George Drabble, Edward Lurab, Henry Harratt, Henry A. Green, Gregorio Lezama, Ambrosio P. Lezica, and Federico Elortondo. The works were commenced by Messrs. Peto & Betts on 8th March 1804, and the line was completed before the close of 1865. Last year the net profits gave 5 per cent, on the capital; but, every year the traffic is improving, and the guarantee Avill soon be unnecessary. The Northern Railway, was begun in 1860, the concessionaire being Mr. Edward A. Hopkins, but the works were destroyed the following year by a high tide. The enterprise was continued in 1861 by Messrs. Croskey & Murray, who again inaugurated the works in February 1862. The c Oncession stipulated : — 1 . The cost of the line £150,000, for sixteen miles. 2. Government guaranteed interest seven per cent, for twenty years. The line was opened to San Fernando on 5th February, 1864. In October of the same year the Legislature of Buenos Ayres gave a concession for prolonging the line to Zarate, with a guarantee of seven per cent, for .twenty years, but limithig the cost to £7,100 per mile. This concession lapsed, as the prolongation works were to be commenced within twelve months and concluded in three years. The line was, however, prolonged two miles to the Tigre, which is used as a port for the steamboat traffic of the upper rivers. The Boca and Exsenada Railway, Avorks were begun by Mr. Wheel- wright on 23rd February, 1863, and the concession granted in the following July, viz. : — 1. The Government concedes permission to William Wheelwright to construct and run for ever a railway, which shall start from the Paseo Julio, where the Northern Railway terminates, to the Boca del Riachuelo, Barracas, and Ensenada. E?»SE>ADA RAILWAY. 107 2. The road to Ensenada must be concluded before the 1st March, 1867, unless in view of the great importance of making a previous survey of the capabilities of that port to adapt it to the necessities of Buenos Ayrean commerce, it should be agreed on between the Government and the concessionaire, to make of this a practical experiment. 3. In case that Ensenada v/ill admit of being made to meet the necessities of the commerce of Buenos Ayres, such as a port of loading and discharging vessels, and that the Government approves of the plans, it is agreed that the concessionaire of the railway shall take charge of the w ork, having first arranged with the Government. 4. The Government guarantees to the concessionaire that for the term of twenty years no other railway from the Custom-house to the Boca, Barracas, and Ensenada, whether propelled by steam or otherwise, shall be permitted. On 8th September, 1865, the liue was opened as fer as Barracas, three mdes ; and in November of same year a surveying expedition proceeded to Ensenada to examine its condition as a port, and the difficulty offered by the bar : the report was favorable, but no further steps were taken in the matter. The line now runs to Barracas, and the bridge over the Riachuelo is being constructed, to push on the works to Ensenada. The Bio Salado navigation concession was given to Don Esteban Rams in 1863 : the history of the enterprise has been fully explained in the chapter on the Rio de la Plata and its tributaries. The Artesiaij Well of Barracas was begun by Messrs. Bordeaux & Co., on 1st June, 1859, with the object of carrying away the offal of the saladeros, the saladeristas and Government defraying the expense. After two months' labor the bore reached a depth of 96 feet, viz. : sand, 40ft. ; slime and dark-blue ochre, 1 3ft. ; tosca, 7ft. ; lluid yellow and grey sand, 36ft. In December, 1861, the works were renewed, and by February, 1862, the bore reached 234 feet, having traversed a bed of marine shells. On 14th March, 1862, the water rose through the tubes and poured out in a • jet d'eau ' : on July 6th the Artesian Well was inaugurated by President Mitre, and since then it has been much in use as a bath. The water is unfit to drink, but possesses saline medicinal qualities. The Electric Telegraph (Buenos Ayres to 3Iontevideo} concession was granted on 9th June, 1864, viz. : — 1. Exclusive privilege conceded to Messrs. Proudfoot & Grey for fifteen years, from conclusion of works. 2. Permission to erect posts on highroads or elsewhere. 108 PROJECTS AND COIVCESSIOIVS. 3. Government to protect the wires by all possible means. 4. Government messages half price. 5. In case of misunderstanding between the Republics, the Argentine Government not to stop the wires, nor to have right to inspect messages unless private correspondence be prohibited. The cable was laid from Punta Lara to Colonia, twenty-six miles, in October 1866, and the wires opened for traffic a few weeks later. Telegraph Wires to Chile.— In December 1866, Messrs. Hopkins & Gary obtained a concession to lay down wires from Buenos Ayres to Chile, as follows : — 1. The line shall be completed within two years from the date of concession. 2. The Government, on conclusion of the line, shall pay the contractor a subvention of 8 per cent, per annum for twelve years, on a cost of ^200 s. per mile. 3. The Government shall cede to the company fifty squares of public lands for every fifteen miles of telegraph. 4. If the whole of the line be not completed within the term specified in clause 2, the Government shall reduce 1 per cent, on the subvention for every four months so delayed in finishing the line. This project lapsed, owing to the death of Mr. Street, the eminent contractor of San Francisco. Traction Engines. — In August 1863, Messrs. Rossignol, Beare, & Puyrredon obtained a concession for traction engines throughout the Bepublic ; the first line to be established in eighteen months, and others to Eosario, Cordoba, Tacuman, and 3Iendoza in three years. The construction of roads and bridges was to be at the cost of the company, whose capital was fixed at £200,000, the Government guaranteeing 7 per cent, on actual outlay. In 186i Mr. Beare brought from England an engine called El Buey, Avhich made an unsuccessful experiment from Barracas to town, and the project was abandoned. The soil seems too soft and light for such locomotives. Roads and Bridges. — In September 1863, Congress passed the follow- ing law : — , 1 . The President is authorised to emit §1 ,000,000 in shares, which shall be denominated Roads and Bridges Stock. 2. These sliares shall be of $20, g50, $500, and g 1,000s., with an interest of 8 per cent., payable half yearly, and with 3 per cent, amortization. SA]X JUAN MINES. •lOQ 3. These shall be only issued at par, and shall be paid out only T\hen new enterprises shall require it. For a list of the roads made and projected the reader is referred to Chap. vii. , San Juan 31ining Company. — In >'ovember 1862, Governor Sarniiento of San Juan, and President Mitre, aided Major Rickard in getting up a joint- stock company, capital £22,000, for the working of silver ores at Hilario. Mr. Rickard went to England for machinery and miners, retui'niug in 1863, and proceeding at once to build an extensive factory at Hilario. Troubles began with the shareholders in August 1864, and the works were paralysed. A new company was, however, formed in London in November 1867, and it is hoped the works will shortly be resumed. Klappenbach's Mining AVorks, situate at La Huerta, thirty-five leagues from San Juan, were begun in September 1864, and are now completed: they can smelt 100 tons of ore daily. The result of the smelting in 1865 was — 1,446 marks of pure silver; in the first eight months of 1868 it Avas 6,589 marks. In September 1868, Messrs. Klappenbach formed a joint- stock company of ii46,000 capital, in £200 shares : some shares not subscribed for were taken up by the Argentine Government. Carriage Road over the Andes. — In February 1865, a project was set on foot by M. Carpentier, a French resident in Chile, to make a highway from Rio Teno in Chile to Valle Hermoso in the Argentine Republic ; the road to be sixteen feet wide and practicable for carriages. M. Carpentier obtained a concession from the Chilian Government of a right of toll for twenty years. He estimated the cost at £50,000, and engaged to finish it in three years. If the project be ever carried out it will be a great gain for travellers crossing the Cordillera. Eastern Argentine Railway. — In February 1863, Minister Rawson instructed Smith, Knight, & Co., London, to prepare surveys for a line from Concordia in Entre Rios to Mercedes in Corrientes. The following con- cession was granted in August 1864 : — 1 . The cost shall not exceed £13,353. 2. The National Government guarantees 7 per cent, interest on the capital invested. 3. The line to have three sections : 1st. From Concordia to Federacion ; 2nd. From Federacion to 31onte-Caseros ; and, 3rd. From Monte-Caseros to Mercedes. 4. The first section may be commenced at once ; but the second not until fio PROJECTS AISD COINCESSIOIVS. the first yields 3| per cent, net on the capital ; and the third Avhen both first and second give the same (3^ per cent.) net returns. 5. All lands necessary for the line, stations, &c., shall be ceded gratis to the company. 6. At least eighteen miles shall be open to traffic ^vithin two years,»and the rest of the first section in twelve months later. 7. Government may interfere in the traffic when the dividends exceed 15 per cent. There is every likelihood of this enterprise being revived, and the Governments of Entre JRios and Corrientes will perhaps give a land-grant along the line, similar to that of the Central Argentine. LuxAN AND Salto TIailway. — This was a project by M. Lacroze, to run a branch from the Western Railway northwards, the Government of Buenos Ayres finding the funds, to be reimbursed in part by municipal taxation in the (cpartidos)) benefited by the line. It was judged impracticable. Parana and Nogoya Railway. — The surveys for this line were made in October 1865 by Neville Mortimer, C. E., who estimated the cost at X32I.536 sterling; or £5,024 per mile, the length being 64 miles. Nothing has since been done in the matter. LoBOS Railway. — In June 1867 several land-holders of Lobos and neighbouring partidos prevailed on Governor Alsina to order the surveys of a branch-line from the Western to Lobos. The idea of Government consisted in proposing to the Legislature of Buenos Ayroe the emission of twenty millions currency (£160,000 sterling) in 6 per cent, funds, saleable at 85, with an annual sinking-fund of 1 per cent. Vice-President Paz and Dr. Acosta assured Governor Alsina that most of the said funds would be taken up in Lobos, Navarro, Saladillo &c. : they even promised to get all the land gratis, along the route. The branch-line would start from Moreno or Rodriguez station ; the cost would be about £5,000 per mile, but it is difficult to suppose the funds could be provided by subscription among the estancieros. Rio LuxAN Port and Railway. — In October 1867, a project was started, to run a branch railway from Floresta, on the Western line, to the River Lujan. The cost was estimated at £100,000, and the projectors sought no guarantee but a monopoly for twenty years, the great object being to make a port on the Rio Lujan, for the city of Buenos Ayres, at a place where the water is said to have a depth of twelve feet. Sain Fernando Canalization. — The concession, bearing date 20th July, 1863, is as follows : — HARBOR ACCOMMODATIOrf. Ill 1. Mr. Edward. A. Hopkins is hereby authorized to form a joint-stock company for the canalization of the Arroyo Capitan, between the Parana de las Palmas and Lujan river, opposite the town of San Fernando, with a mole, warehouses, and deposit stores, suitable to the requirements of the coasting craft of the upper rivers. 2. The capital of the company shall not exceed one million five hmidred thousand silver dollars. 3. The company may charge the tolls, mole, and deposit dues which it shall judge fit, for the term of twenty years, provided that the receipts do not exceed the sum of eighteen per cent nett profit on the capital. 4. The Arroyo del Capitan shall be canalized and improved : and shall have at least eighteen metres in breadth throughout the whole length at surface, and three metres in depth at mean tide. 5. The dues payable for the use of the canal shall only be recoverable in proportion to its cost, w hich must not exceed the sum of three hundred and seventy-eight thousand four hundred and twelve silver dollars, according to the estimates of the concessionaire. 6. At the expiration of the twenty years mentioned in article 3, the canal shall be free from all the company's dues. 7 . At any time during the period of this concession the Government shall have the right of expropriating the canal works for the benefit of the public, at the value of their cost, and 23 per cent extra as indemnification. 8. The company shall have the requisite number of tug-boats for the service of the moles and canal. 9. The works shall commence within the period of eighteen months. In 18G5 Congress gave a prolongation of the concession, and Mr. Hopkins began the w orks in the following year. A company was formed in Buenos Ayres in 1867, since when the works go on favorably. The iron- work is ordered from England, the machinery from the United States ; among the latter is a dredge capable of throwing 100 tons an hour. Port for Bue^vos Ayres. — In 1859, 3Ir. Coglilan, C.E., prepared a complete survey, with plans, for the construction of a harbor, the estimated cost being £800,000 : the plans still decorate the ante-chamber of the Provincial Legislature. In 1864 the project was taken up under another form by Seiior Garay. There is now some talk of Congress devoting the extra duties hitherto used for war purposes in this more useful manner. In 1866 Mr. Petty, the pilot, submitted a project to clear the roadstead of the many wrecks and lost anchors lying about ; he asked no other remuneration . than the anchors, &c., to be recovered, whereupon the authorities called 112 PROJECTS AND COIVCESSIONS. for tenders to clean the port, and nothing has since been done in the matter. • Harbor at the Boca.— In July 1863, Don Manuel Lynch submitted to Congress the subjoined project, -which died, like so many others, in embryo — 1 . The company shall construct, at their own risk and expense, a harbor for this city. 2. The entrance to such harbor Avill be near Quilmes, with a depth of water fourteen feet at low tide, with a proper sluice-gate. 3. This entrance will be prolonged as far as the Riachuelo de la Boca, by means of a canal. 4. The company shall erect, at their own cost, warehouses and depots. 5. When the section shall be finished to the Biachuelo, all vessels shall be obliged to enter the canal and Biachuelo for unloading or loading. • 6. The company shall recover, in such cases, on unloading, 12 reals s. per ton register, and the same for loading. 7 . The company shall have one or more tug-boats to take vessels ^n or out of the port, the fee for which shall not exceed 4 reals s, per ton register. 8. This concession shall be for a term of thirty years, after which the Government shall enter into full possession of the canals and lighthouse. Gunpowder Manufactory.— In September 1865, this company was formed, with a capital of £10,000, in shares of £50 each, under the direction of Mr. Liesenberg, who had had ten years' experience in Europe. An unlucky explosion occurred in July 1867, the day before the proposed inauguration: Mr. Liesenberg was seriously injured; but the enterprise was not abandoned. The works are situate at Palermo. Steam Communication with United States. — In August 1865, Congress voted £4,000 per annum as a subsidy for a branch line of the United States and Brazilian mail service : up to the present no branch lias been established. Buenos Ayres Water-works. — In August 1863 a proposal was sent in by Messrs. Easton, AmOs, & Co., London, to provide water-works for the city. The supply was to be 30,000 pipes daily, the water being taken from above the Gas-house. The cost was estimated at £102,000, for which the Municipality would give 7 per cent, bonds. Several other projects were initiated from time to time, but the Municipality paid no attention to the wants of the city, till, in January 1868, the cholera caused such ravages Governor Alsina and the Legislature took the matter in hand. SEWAGE A>-D WATER-WORKS. 113 » Mr. Coghlan was authorised to construct water-works near fbe Recoleta, :at jam estimated cost of £48,000, and an engineer was despatched to England for machinery. Mr. Coghlan states,, in a report to Don Emilio Castro, dated May 15, that the original design has been considerably extended, being now calculated for the distribution of 1,300,000 gallons daily. All the machinery being provided in duplicate the quantity may be at any time extended by addi- tional reservoirs and filters. The addition of a third engine similar to the two already contracted for, would be sufficient for increasing the supply to 2,500,000 gallons daily. The works were inaugurated with great pomp on the 1 5th September, the machinery is already shipped from England, and it is expected the whole project will be carried out early in 1869. The pipes will suffice for twelve miles of ground. Drafnage, Water Supply, and Pavlng. — There are several projects under consideration, some one of which will probably be carried out before long. The works undertaken by Mr. Coghlan are in a manner temporary, as they do not include drainage and paving, and the new proposals include the purchase of said works. The proposals of Robinson & Co., and Gotto & Neate, are the most important. Thomas Robinson and Co.^s Praposah. Draina(je. — Will construct all *necessary sewers, two disiufectiug stations, gullies for street water, junction pipes to facilitate house drainage. • Water-works. — Will supply 2,000,000 gallons filtered water daily, con- stant pressure, fire-plugs at every cross street, hydi*ants, air valves, water tower, and cistern. Will execute at least twelve squares (1 ,700 yards) of both works every two months, and complete all in four vears. Will commence works immediately on signing contract. -^ Terms. — To be paid for 400 manzanas (blocks 425 feet square) £820,000 in Provincial Bonds bearing 7 pec cent, interest, and 3 per cent, sinking fund, payable in London or Buenos Ayres at choice of contractor. For every additional manzana £ 1 ,350. Gotto and Neate' s Proposal: Capital, £1,200,000. Sewerage. — Pipes to carry off sewage and rain water. Junctions to houses. Water-works. — Supply of 6,000,000 gallons in twenty-four hours, constant pressure. 114 PROJECTS AlVD COJS'CESSIONS. Paving. — Of 136 squares (58,000 lineal feet) with granite blocks, in- concrete. Will maintain and work water supply and drainage for term of conces- sion, and keep paving in repair for one year. Terms. — Monopoly for ninety-nine years. Exemption from duties, import and export. Payment by Provincial Government of §48 s. (£9 1 5s.) per annum for each house within the city. The Municipality to pay ^25,000 s. (£5,100) per annum for water for fountains, fires, and watering the streets. Export of Cattle. — In August 1868, Messrs. Alexander F. Baillie and P. Barry, on the part of a London company, petitioned the Argentine Government for a concession to export live stock to Europe. The capital of the company was stated at £500,000, and a fleet of seven first-class steamers w^ould be constructed, with the double purpose of bringing out emigrants, and taking home cattle in the return voyage : the annual export of stock to be at least 5,000 head of horned cattle and 3,000 sheep. They solicited a monopoly for seven years, and a total exemption from Customs'- duties. Mr. Baillie returned to England in October, and states that he has obtained the concession prayed for, as far as regards all exportation of live stock to England and France. New Gas Compat^y. — In the beginning of 1867, Mr. James Bell of Montevideo, associated with some men of influence and capital in Buenos Ayres, projected a new gas companyfn Buenos Ayres, in opposition to the original company established in 1856. The capital of the old company is^ $18,000,000, or £144,000 sterling, and the dividends in recent years have varied from 20 to 30 per cent, per annum : the shares are still over 50 per cent, premium. The present price of gas is about £ I 3s. per 1,000 cubic feet, and the proposed new company promises to make a great reduction ; as yet, however, it remains merely a project, the only step taken being the submission of tlie statutes to the Argentine Government, which has approved of same. The term o^monopoly granted to the old company has. long since expired. It is intended to erect the works of the new company at the south end, in Barracas. , TREATIES OF COMMERCE. H^' CHAP. X. TREATIES OF COMMERCE A>'D NAVIGATION. The treaty of amity, commerce, and navigation between the Argentine Republic and Great Britain bears date 2nd February 1825, and is as follo^>s : — TREVTY WITH GREAT BRITAIN. Extensive commercial intercourse having been established for a series of years between the dominions of His Britannic Majesty, and the territories of the United Provinces of Rio de la Plata, it seems good for the security, as well as encouragement of such commercial intercourse, and for the maintenance of good understanding between His said Britannic Majesty and the said United Provinces, that the relations now subsisting between them should be regularly acknowledged and confirmed by the signature of a Treaty of Amity, Commerce, and Navigation. For this purpose they have named their respective Plenipotentiaries, that is to say :— His Majesty, the King of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, Woodbine Parish, His said Majesty's Consul-Generalj in the Province of Buenos Ay res and its dependencies ; and the United Provinces of Rio de la Plata, Sr. D. Manuel Jose Garcia, Minister Secretary for the Department of Government, Finance, and Foreign Affairs, of the National Executive Power of the said Provmces. i2 fl6 TREATIES OF COMMERCE AVlio, after having commimicated to each other their respective Full Powers, found to be in due and proper form, have agreed upon and concluded the following articles : — Art. 1. There shall be perpetual amity between the dominions and subjects of His 3Iajesty the King of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, and the United Provinces of Rio de la Plata and their inhabitants. Art. 2. There shall be, between all the territories of His Britannic Majesty in Europe, and the territories of the United Provinces of Bio de la Plata, a reciprocal freedom of commerce. The inhabitants of the two countries respectively, shall have liberty freely and securely to come with their ships and cargoes to all such places, ports, and rivers in the territories aforesaid, to which other foreigners are or may be permitted to come, to enter into the same and remain and reside in any part of the said territories respectively ; also to hire and occupy houses and warehouses for the purposes of their commerce ; and generally the merchants and traders of each nation, respectively, shall enjoy the most complete protection and security for their commerce ; subject always to the laws and statutes of the two countries respectively. Art. 3. His Majesty the King of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, engages further, that in all His Dominions situated out of Europe, the inhabitants of the United Provinces of Rio de la Plata shall have the like liberty of commerce and navigation stipulated for in the preceding article, to the full extent in which the same is permitted at present, or shall be permitted hereafter to any other nation. Art. 4; iNo higher or other duties shall be imposed on the importation into the territories of His Britannic Majesty, of any articles of the growth, produce or manufacture of the United Provinces of the Rio de la Plata, and no higher or other duties shall be imposed on the importation into the said United Provinces, of any articles of tlie growth, produce, or manufacture of His Britannic Majesty's dominions, than are, or shall be payable on the like articles, being the growth, produce, or manufacture, of any other foreign country ; nor shall any other, or higlier duties or ehargcs be imposed in the territories or dominions of either of the contracting parties, on the exportation of any articles to the territories or dominions of the other, than such as are or may be payable on the exportation of the like articles to any other foreign country : nor shall any prohibition be imposed upon the exportation of any article, the growth, produce or manufacture of His Britannic Majesty's dominions or of the said United'Proviaces, which shall not equally extend to all other nations. TREATY WITH ENGLAND. 117 Art. 5. No higher, or other duties or charges on account of tonnage, "light, or harboiu- dues, pilotage, salvage in case of damage or shipwreck, or any other local charges, shall be imposed, in any of the ports of the said United Provinces, on British vessels of the burthen of above one hundred and twenty tons, than those payable in the same ports, by vessels of the said United Provinces of the same burthen ; nor in the ports of any of His Britannic Majesty's territories on the vessels of the said United Provinces of above one hundred and twenty tons, than shall be payable in the same ports, on British vessels of the same burthen. Art. 6. The same duties shall be paid on the importation into the said United Provinces of any article the growth, produce, or manufacture of His Britannic Majesty's dominions, whether such importation shall be in vessels of the said United Provinces or in British vessels ; and the same duties shall be paid on the importation into the dominions of His Britannic Majesty of any article the growth, produce or manufacture of the said United Provinces, whether such importation shall be in British vessels, or in vessels of the said United Provinces. The .same duties shall be paid, and the same drawbacks and bounties allowed, on the exportation of any article of the growth, produce, or manufacture of His Britannic Majesty's dominions to the said United Provinces, whether such exportation shall be in vessels of the said United Provinces, or in British vessels, and the same duties shall be paid, and the same bounties and drawbacks allowed on the exportation of any articles the growth, produce, or manufacture of the said United Provinces to His Britannic Majesty's dominions, whether such exportation shall be in British vessels, or in vessels of the said United Provinces. Art. 7. In order to avoid* any misunderstanding with respect to the regulations which may respectively constitute a British vessel, or a vessel of the said United Provinces, it is hereby agreed, tliat all vessels built in the domimons of His Britannic Majesty and owned, navigated, and registered according to the laws of Great Britain, shall be considered as British vessels ; and that all vessels built in the territories of the said United Provinces, properly registered and owned by the citizens thereof, or any of them, and whereof the master and three fourths of the mariners, at least, are citizens of the said United Provinces, shall be considered as vessels of the said United Provinces. Art. 8. All merchants, commanders of ships, and others, the subjects of His Britannic Majesty, shall have the same liberty in all the territories of il8 TREATIES OF COMMERCE. the said United Provinces, as the natives thereof, to manage their own affairs tliemselves, or to commit them to the management of whomsoever they please, as broker, factor, agent, or interpreter ; nor shall they be obliged to employ any other persons for those purposes, nor to pay them any salary or remuneration, unless they shall choose to employ them ; and absolute freedom shall be allovi^ed, in all cases, to the buyer and seller to bargain and fix the price of any goods, wares, or merchandize imported into, or exported from, the said United Provinces, as they shall see good. Art. 9. In what relates to the loading or unloading of ships, the safety of merchandise, goods, and effects, the disposal of property of every sort and denomination, by sale, donation, or exchange, or in any other manner >vhatsoever, as also the administration of justice, the subjects and citizens of the two contracting parties shall enjoy, in their respective dominions, the same privileges, liberty, and rights, as the most favoured nation, and shall not be charged,' in any of these respects with any higher duties or imposts than those which are paid, or may be paid, by the native subjects or citizens of the Power in whose dominions they may be resident. They shall be exempted from all compulsory military service whatsoever, whether by sea or land, and from all forced loans, or military exactions or requisitions ; neither shall they be compelled to pay any ordinary taxes, under any pretext whatsoever, greater than those that are paid by native subjects or citizens. Art. 10. It shall be free for each of the two contracting parties to appoint Consuls for the protection of trade, to reside in the dominions and territories of the other party ; but before any Consul shall act as such, he shall, in the usual form, be approved and admitted by the government to which he is sent ; and either of the contractiag parties may except from the residence of Consuls, such particular place as either of them may judge fit to be so excepted. Art. 1 1 . For the better security of commerce between the subjects of His Britannic Majesty, and the inhabitants of the United Provinces of Rio de la Plata, it is agreed that if at any time any interruption of friendly coiumercial intercourse, or any rupture should unfortunately take place between the two contracting parties, the subjects or citizens" of either of the two contracting parties residing in the dominions of the other, shall have the privilege of remaining and continuing their trade therein, without any manner of interruption, so long as they behave peaceably, and commit no offence against the laws ; and their effects and property, TREATY WITH ENGLA:'AVIGATION OF TllVERS. 121 Who, after having comraunicated to each other their full powers, found in good and due form, have agreed upon the folloAviug articles : — Art. 1 . The Argentine Confederation, in the exercise of her sovereign rights, concedes the free navigation of the rivers Parana and Uruguay* wherever they may belong to her, to the merchant vessels of all Nations, subject only to the conditions which this treaty establishes, and to the regulations sanctioned or which may hereafter be sanctioned by the National authority of the Confederation. Art. 2. Consequently, the said vessels shall be admitted to remain, load and unload in the places and ports of the Argentine Confederation which are open for that purpose. Art. 3. The Government of the Argentine Confederation, desirous to provide every facility for interior navigation, agrees to maintain beacons and marks for setting out the channels. Art. 4. A uniform system shall be established by the competent authorities of the Confederation for the collection of the Custom-house duties, harbour lights, police and pilotage dues along the whole course of the waters which belong to the Confederation. Art. 5. The high contracting parties, considering that the island of Martin Garcia may, from its position, embarrass and impede the free navigation of the continents of the River Plate, agree to use their influence to prevent the possession, of the said island from being retained or held by any State of the River Plate or its confluents which shall not have given its adhesion to the principle of their free navigation. Art. 6. If it should happen (which God forbid) that war should break out between any of the States, Republics, or Provinces, the rivers Parana and Uruguay shall remain free to the merchant flags of all nations, excepting in what may relate to munitions of war, such as arms of all kinds, gunpowder, lead, and cannon balls. Art. 7. Power is expressly reserved to His Majesty the Emperor of Brazil, and the Governments of Rolivia, Paraguay, and the Oriental State of Uruguay, to become parties to the present treaty in case they should be disposed to apply its principles to the parts of the rivers Parand, Paraguay, and Uruguay, over which they may respectively possess fluvial rights. Art. 8. The principal objects for which the rivers Parana and Uruguay are declared free to the commerce, of the world, being to extend the mercantile relations of the countries which border them, and to promote immigration, it is hereby agreed that no favour or immunity sliall be 122 TREATIES OF COMMERCE. granted to the flag or trade of any other nation which shall not equally extend to those of the United States. Art. 9. The present treaty shall be ratified on the part of the Govern- ment of the United States within fifteen months from its date, and within two days by His Excellency the Provisional Director of the Argentine Confederation, who shall present it to the first Legislative Congress of the Confederation for their approbation. The ratifications shall be exchanged at the seat of Government of the Argentine Confederation within the term of eighteen months. In witness whereof the respective Plenipotentiaries have signed this treaty, and affixed thereto their seals. Done at San Jose de Flores on the tenth day of July in the year of our Lord one tliousaud eight hundred and fifty-three. — Robert Sche^nk — John S. Pendleto];^ — Salvador Maria del Carril — Jose B. Gorostiaga. In 1858, General Urquiza's Government concluded a convention Avith H.B.M.'s Minister, Mr. Christie, at Parand, for payment of damages caused to British subjects during the civil wars, the claimants receiving 6 per cent, bonds. ( PUBLIC MEN. 123 CHAP. XI. BIOGRAPHIES OF PUBLIC 3IEN. PRESIDENT SARMIE^•TO, DoMisGo Faustiko Sarmiento was born in the town of San Juan at the end of February 1811, nine months after the glorious 25th of 3Iay that marks the birthday of the Argentine nation. His father, though uneducated, w as an enthusiastic patriot, and took an active part in the revolution which emancipated his native country from the Colonial regime. Finding, at every step, the disadvantages of his ignorance, he determined that his son should not share them, and, fi'om the early age of five years, sent him to school. There young Sarmiento, by his application and talent, gave already signs of his future greatness. Being originally destined for the Church, he was sent, in 1824, to the Loreto Seminary at Cordova ; but the revolution of Carita, having deprived him of his Latin master, he began in 1825 to study mathematics and land surveviug under Mr. Barreau^ the engineer of the province. In the same year he went to San Luis with his relation, the Clerigo Oro, to continue the studies which the revolution of the previous year had interrupted. In 1826, returning to his native town, he hired as clerk in a store, but his nights were devoted either to reading or to discussions with his uncle. Father Albarracin, on the Bible. He took an active part in the campaign that followed against Facundo Quiroga in San Juan, and that against Fraile Aldao in Mendoza, which ended in the catastrophe of Pilar, where he rose to the rank of Captain, and where his courage and presence of mind saved him from many 124 PUBLIC MEN. dangerous chauces. The victory of Facuiido Qiiiroga, in Chacon, in 1831, obliged him and most of his companions to emigrate to Chile, where he was successively schoolmaster in the Andes, bar-keeper in Pocuro, clerk in a commercial house in Valparaiso, and major-domo of mines in Copiapo. In 1836 he returned to San Juan, poorer than he had left, and suffering from severe illness. He then, in society with Drs. Rosas, Cortiuez, and Aberastain, devoted his energies to promote several institutions of great utility for the province cf San Juan, such as a college for girls, another for boys, a dramatic society, and last, though not least, the Zonda^^ weekly publication, that tended to improve and instruct the masses. General Benavides, who was then the absolute ruler of San Juan, took umbrage at the influence and position young Sarmiento was acquiring, and, not only suppressed the Zonda^ but left no stone unturned, by vexatious persecution, to oblige him once more to emigrate. In this he at last succeeded ; and in IXovember 1840, Sarmiento again crossed the Cordillera, doomed to eat for a long time the hard-earned bread of exile. On his second visit to Cliile he began to take an active part in the politics of his adopted country, and, both as editor of several papers, and as a writer of literary works, more especially of education, he acquired for himself a fame which found echo even in the Old World. In 1846 and 1847 he was sent to Europe on a commission by the Chilian Government, to inspect and report upon schools and educational institutions ; and on his return Avrote an account of his travels, which he published. By his powerful writings in the periodical press, and in his other works, he contributed to the overthiow of the tyrant Rosas, and also took an active part in the final scene that was enacted on the plains of Caseros, where he held the rank of Chief of the Staff of the Grande Ejercito Libertador, and as such compiled the famous bulletin giving the official account of that celebrated action. Having, however, fallen out with Urquiza, he took up his residence in Buenos Ayres, and continued taking an active part in the troubled politics of those days, principally as editor of the Nacional. He was then appointed Inspector- General of Schools, and was able by his great experience and profound knowledge to effect vast improvements in the educational system of the country. After the battle of Cepeda he took office with Governor Mitre as Ministro de Gobierno, until the sad news arrived of the tragical death of his school-fellow and friend, Aberastain, and of the invasion of Juan Saa in tlic province of San Juan. He disagreed with his colleagues as to the action that the Government of Buenos Ayres was called to assume, and resigned. He subsequently took part in the campaign that was decided on the banks of the Pavon, and at tlie end of December re-entered San Juan, after* PRESIDENT SARMIE>'TO. 125 twenty-two years exile, at the head of a victorious army. Having been unanimously elected Governor of the province, he devoted for two years and a-balf all his energy and ability to the moral and material pjj-ogress of his native province, and had the glory of bringing to a successful issue the ditlicult campaign against the great «caudillo)> of the west, General Pefialoza, commonly called the Chacho. In April 1864, at the entreaty of President Mitre, he consented to go as Minister Plenipotentiary to Washington. During a residence of foiu* years in the United States he became imbued with the progressive ideas of Americans, especially admir- ing their system of popular education. In August 1868, he was elected President of the Argentine Republic, for the usual term of six years, the voting being as follows : — For President. Votes. Domingo F. Sarmieuto, 79 General Urquiza, 26 Rufino de Elizalde, .... 22 Guillermo Rawson, .... 3 Dalmacio Yelez Sarsfield, 1 For Vice-President. Votes. Adolfo Alsina, .... 82 Wenceslao Paunero, .... 45 Manuel Ocampo, 2 Francisco de las Carreras, I Juan B. Alberdi, .... 1 On the 12th October 1868, he entered into office. VICE-PRESIDENT ALSINA. Adolfo Alsina was born in Buenos Ayres on the 13th of February 1829. His father having been driven into exile to Montevideo, young Adolfo began there his studies. In 1852 he, came back to Buenos Ayres with his father, and continued his studies in the Buenos Ayres University, where he received his degree of Doctor of Laws. He took up arms in 1 852, and shortly afterwards was made captain, and during the siege of 1853 commanded an important «canton,» where he distinguished himself for great bravery. He took an active part in political life, as member of the Club Libertad, and made himself notable by his energy and eloquence. Cepeda found him promoted to the rank of lieutenant-colonel, and on that day he earned great praise for military tact and courage displayed amidst adversity. He Avas present at Pavon, where he commanded a battalion of National Guards. After a journey to Europe, in 1866, the influence he held in the Club Libertad secured his election as Governor of Buenos Ayres, from which post he has been raised to the Vice-Presidency. He is of a jovial character, and very popular among his friends. To all the fine qualities of his father, the much-respected Dr. V. Alsina, he adds an energy of character which is 126 PUBLIC MEN. rarely met with among our public men, and Avliicli lie inherits from his mother, Dofia A. Maza, daughter of Dr. Manuel Vicente Maza, who took a busy part in public affairs during the time of Rosas, and whose tragic end is notoridlis. His administration as Governor of Buenos Ajtcs ivas remark- able for two important measures, either of which is sulKcient to throw over it a lustre of imperishable glory : they are the foundation of the Oficina de Cambios, for fixing the value of the currency, and the city water- works. GENERAL MITRE, EX-PRESIDENT. Brigadier-General Bartolome Mitre, the late President of the Republic, is a native of Buenos Ayres. He commenced his career as cadet of artillery in Montevideo in 1839, rose to the rank of captain fighting against the armies of Oribe and Urquiza until 1845, when he left for Chile, where he was appointed Colonel and fought against Bolivia, commanding a field battery; after the war he edited several papers, and came in 1852 commanding the Oriental artillery of the allied army against Rosas, in Caseros. Was elected deputy to the local legislature, which, having made strong opposition to the Government, was forcibly dissolved, and he with several others went into exile. He was recalled after the revolution of 18 52, appointed commander of the forces in Buenos Ayres in the siege of 1853, and was made Minister of War ; was promoted to the rank of General in 1859, and commanded the army of Buenos Ayres at the battle of Cepeda, which he lost. Was elected Governor of the Province in 1860, promoted to the rank of Brigadier-General, and won the battle of Pavon against the army of the Confederation, after which he pacified the country, and was unanimously elected President', in October 1862. During his administration Buenos Ayres made great progress in industry, commerce, and public enterprises. The Cordoba railway, electric telegraph, and other notable works are associated with this period ; but it is also true that the state of the Upper Provinces was deplorable, the Indians devastating the frontiers with impunity. But for the war with Paraguay, the Argentine Republic must have advanced with rapid strides in all the arts of peace. General Mitre always evinced great friendship for Englishmen, and is an admirer of our literature, having translated some of Longfellow's poems. He stands high as a Spanish writer, for his life of General Bclgrano, and is a member of several European literary associations. On the conclusion of his term of office, October 12th 1868, his friends and admirers purchased a house for him. He is fond of playing chess, and is a thorough republican m sentiment. GENERAL URQUIZA. 127 GET>iERAE URQUIZA. Justo Jose de Urquiza, Captain-General, ex-President, and Governor of Eutre-Rios, was born near Concepcion about the beginning of the present century. He began life behind a (|raper's counter, but soon took to a military career, in which he was eminently successful. He expelled Rosas in 1852, was elected President, gave a Constitution to the Republic, threw open the rivers to the flags of all nations, and restored order in the upper provinces. In 1859 he obliged Buenos Ayres to re-enter the Argentine Confederation, but was defeated by General Mitre in 1861. Since then he has lived in retirement at his princely estancia of San Jose, near Concepcion, where he treats all visitors, especially Englishmen, Avith the warmest hospitality. His cattle and sheep-farms are as large as some of the smaller European monarchies, and give him a splendid income. He encourages immigration, railways, &c., and has subscribed £20,000 to the Central Argentine Company. He was again elected Governor of Entre Rios in 1867, and was next after Sarmiento .in the list of candidates for the Presidency. His last service to the Republic was the pacification of Corrientes, in union with the veteran diplomatist. Dr. Yelcz Sarsfield. THE ARCHBISHOP OF BUENOS AYRES. His Grace, Dr. Jose 3Iaria Bustillos y Zeballos de Escalada, is descended cf an old Spanish family, and was born in this city, A. D. 1800. He was raised to the episcopal dignity as co-adjutor to the late Bishop Medrano, under the title 'Bishop of Anion, in partibiis.^ In 1854 a Papal bull created him Bishop of Buenos Ayres, and in 1866 the see was elevated to an Archbishopric. Dr. Escalada is a man of portly and patriarchal appearance, and is much esteemed for his unassuming manners. His palace, in the Plaza Victoria, adjacent to the Cathedral, was erected for him by the State, in 1861. He has a secretary* a chaplain, and three clerks for the despatch of business. His salary is about £1,000 a year. Out of his private fortune he has built a chapel near the English cemetery^ connected with the diocesan clerical college. GOVERISOR CASTRO. Erailio Castro, Governor of the Province of Buenos Ayres, is a native of this city, and about fifty years of age. He has rendered long and varied services in many public capacities, and enjoys general confidence. In 1859 lie was Chief of Police ; in 1861 as commander of a battalion of National Guards he saw some military service : Being elected Senator in the Provincial Legislature, he held his seat in the Chamber till chosen its President. 12B PUBLIC MEN. Under the last administration lie filled the office of Government Inspector of Railways. On the elevation of Governor Alsina to the Vice-Presidency of the Republic, Mr. Castro, as President of the Senate, became Governor ex-officio. Having been educated in Scotland, he has strong sympathies for everything English, and is of course conversant with our language. DR. SARSFIELD, PRIME-MI]\ISTER. Dalmacio Velez Sarsfield was born in Cordova about the beginning of the present century, and received his education in the university of that city. He has long been reputed the first jurisconsult in the country, and his Civil Code, compiled at the request of Congress, is just published. During various administrations he held Office successively, and his name is associated with Bank-reform and other important measures. In the last Congress he sat as Senator for his native province. The new President on assuming office gave him the direction of the Cabinet as Minister of Interior. Dr. Sarsfield claims to be descended from a distinguished Irish family : he is well read in the judicial literature of England and North America, and his name is not unknown in high legal circles in Germany. He is an able speaker and writer. DR. VARELA, FOREIGN AFFAIRS. Mariano Varela, Minister for Foreign Affairs, is son of the late Florencio Varela, a distinguished writer, who was assassinated in Montevideo by order of General Oribe, on account of his writings in the Comercio del Plata. The brothers Hector and Mariano Varela served their time as printers in Rio Janeyro ; after -the fall of Rosas they came to Buenos Ayres and established the Tribuna newspaper, which soon acquired the foremost place in the press of these countries. Dr. Varela distinguished himself no less in Congress than as a journalist, and entered the Ministerial career under Governor Alsina, as Minister of Finance for the Province of Buenos Ayres. The foreign merchants presented him with a gold medal for his labors in establishing a fixed currency. He has taken a diploma as Doctor of Laws, and is a good English scholar. He is only thirty-two years of age. SR. GOROSTIAGA, FINANCE. Benjamin Gorostiaga, even before his appointment to the portfolio of Finance, was favorably known as a political economist, having gained an early reputation under the old regime at Parand . During his parliamentary career in the Congress convened by General Mitre, he was always remarkable for his clearness of views, and his mastery of statistical returns. He is about sixty years of age, and has a fine estancia near Chivilcoy. THE TSATIONAL MINISTERS. 129 DR. AVELLAiSEDA, INSTRUCTION. Nicolas Avellaueda is the sou of a respectable citizen of Tucuman, who w as Governor of that Province, until beheaded bv Rosas. He was educated in Cordova, and came to Buenos Ayres in 1857 to study law. He had scarcely attained his 20th year when he was employed as editor of the A'acional, and named professor of civil law at the University. His work on Public Lands, in 1865, attracted favorable notice, and Governor Alsina appointed him Minister of Government for Buenos Ayres. His practise as a lawyer was considerable until he embraced political life. His views on popular education are as advanced as those of President Sarmiento. He is conversant with Trench and Latin classics, and is studying English. He is only thirty years of age, and is a better writer than orator. COLONEL GALNZA, WAR AND MARINE. Martin Gainza spent his early years in Montevideo. His father was a Colonel under Lavalle, and fought in all the c^impaigns against Rosas, from 1840 till the fall of the tyrant in 185-2. The subject of our notice first distinguished himself as a cavalry officer in the civil wars aud the Indian frontier service. He owns large estancias near Zarate, and was for some years Commander-in-chief of the ?>ational Guards of the Province. He served under the last administration as Inspector of Arms, and was subsequently a candidate for the post of Governor on the termination of Governor Saavedra's period of .office. GENERAL GELLY-OBES. John Andrew Gelly-Obes, Brigadier-Geueral aud Commander-in-Chief of the Argentine army, is said to be a native either of Buenos Avres or the Bauda Oriental, although the family appears of Paraguayan descent. His father was. for a time Prime-Minister to the first Lopez (1852} in Paraguay, and when the young Lopez, since President, was sent to Europe on a diplomatic mission near the courts of St. James and the TuiUeries, Mr. Gelly-Obes, senior, accompanied him. The subject of our notice Avas commander of the Argentine Legion in the defence of Montevideo (1842-51), and subsequently Secretary in the AVar-office. During the campaign of Cepeda, 1859, he abandoned, for a time, his profession of auctioneer, to assume the command of the National Guards of Buenos Ayres. In 1861 he was made a Major-General, and gave up business. He aided General Flores in the invasion of Banda Oriental, in 1863, and, on the outbreak of the Paraguayan war, Avas removed from the portfolio of War jud Marine, to act as Chief-of-staff to General Mitre. He has since seen some active service in the campaign of Paraguay. 130 PUBLIC MEW. GENERAL PAUJYith oxide of iron, which serves as a flux in furnace operations. The latter contain some lead, and yield from 25 to 80 marks silver per cajon, fairly abundant, but not docile in the furnace owing to the copper being combined with manganese. The above ores received the Bronze Medal in the Paris Exhibition, 1 867 awarded to Major Rickard. (Messrs. Klappenbach's also received a similar reward for the ores of La Huerta.) The complete collection sent from Hilario contained 85 specimens, and exhibited the ores in all their stages of treatment from the crude state to the refined silver. Having described the raining districts of the west, and their produce we will now proceed to enumerate and give some description of the metallurgical establishments for 'beneficiating' the ores, as they exist at the present time ; as also describe the various processes in operation, for extracting the precious metals. As we have already observed, the Messrs. Klappenbach employ the now obsolete system of Pontgibaud, but, although it is no longer used at that place, it is no reason why it should not be introduced and continued here. For we must bear in mind that, in nearly all industrial progress — in the interior at least — we are almost a century behind Europe. Still in some instances, it may be preferable to use antiquated systems here, requiring less skilled labour, and consequently less costly to carry out. The ores, as delivered at Messrs. Klappenbach's (and at all the works, as a rule), are simply handpicked, and subjected to no other previous dressing; hence it is that they contain a large amount of foreign matter, frequently deleterious, and undoubtedly prejudicial to the facile extraction of the silver. Their fineness varies from lumps the size of walnuts to that of small peas, but rarely or never finer. To this defect must be attributed the extra trouble and cost of smelting; for, were the ores ground and mixed into a homogeneous mass previous to their introduction into the furnace, the time, labour, fuel, and general cost, would be perhaps reduced one third, and undoubtedly the results obtained in precious metal would be materially altered in favor of the metallurgist. As it is, a mixture of galenas with ' dry ' ores is made in the proportion of from f to I the former to | and | of the latter. This is introduced into the ordinary single soled reverberatory furnace (at La Huerta) and calcined at a low heat at first, and gradually increased, until all the volatile matters, such as sulphur and arsenic with some of the antimony (should the ores contain it) are driven off, when the fire is increasingly continued, and the mass run into a liquid slag. This is run out on one side of the furnace and when cold is broken up and carried to the deposit for calcined ore. 138 ' MINING IN SAN JUAN. The next operation is that of smelting or fusing this calcined ore with fluxes in the 'blast furnace.' A proportionate mixture is made for this purpose, consisting, more or less, of saj, 100 parts of calcined ore from previous operation, 15 to 20 parts of oxide of iron, and from 7 to 10 parts of raw limestone. Sometimes a quantity of rich blast furnace slags is added. This mixture is passed through an upright blast furnace (rectangular) in intimate contact with the fuel (charcoal) which acts as a powerful reducing agent. During the twenty-four hours, about 16 to 20 quintals of calcined ore are smelted in each blast furnace, of the class used at La Huerta, and the products are — a hard lead, holding nearly all the silver present in the ore — a crude matt, or regulus of lead and copper, with sulphur and antimony, and slags. These latter, if poor, are thrown away; if rich in lead and silver are mixed with fresh portions of calcined ore, where they serve as flux, and yield up their metallic contents on being again passed through the furnace. The matt being a sulphide of lead with copper and antimony, &c., holds invariably some silver, and is roasted in the reverberatory furnace, either alone or with ore, and again passed through the blast. The hard, or work lead, is taken to the deposit until sutficient be accumulated to refine, say, from one to two hundred quintals. The refining is conducted in a circular cupelling furnace (known as the Continental system) where nearly all the lead is charged at once, and the heat gradually raised to a bright red, when the oxidised lead or litharge is melted and begins to flow over the surface of the metallic lead. A nozzle of sheet iron coated with clay, is then introduced at the back of the furnace, and a strong current of air directed over the surface. This drives off the litharge and other impurities which keep rising and accumulating^ by the oxidizing influence of heated atmospheric air. A slit is now made on the marl furnace bottom (the top of which rises slightly above the surface of the metallic bath around the sides), in the doorway, opposite the blast nozzle, and the fused litharge, &c., thus finding a channel, begins to flow off slowly. This is continued until all the lead and the greater part of copper, iron, antimony, &c., are oxidized, leaving a plate of impure silver on the bottom of the cupel furnace. This plate is removed when cold, and placed in another furnace of similar construction, but much smaller, and having a bone-ash bottom firmly beaten in, where it is melted, and the action of the fire and oxidizing influences of the air are allowed full scope for a sufficient time to thoroughly purify the silver. When this is done, the furnace is allowed to cool, the solid plate removed, and is thus sent to Buenos Ayres. babie's and fragueiro's works. 139 The Messrs. Klappenbach use bellows moved by mules, as there is not sufficient water power available to drive a blowing machine or fan. They have an almost inexhaustible supply of firewood in cloge proximity to their works, which are the only ones at present in active operation in the eastern districts of the Province. We will now pass to the western districts, or those of Tontal and Castailo. In all, there are four metallurgical establishments — three in operation and one abandoned. They are respectively — 1 . Messrs. Babie & Co., Castailo ; cost and capital invested about $30,000 Bol. 2. Don Rafael Fragueiro, Calingasta ; say $2,000 Bol. ; abandoned. 3. La Sorocayense, Don Anjel Riera ; about $15,000 Bol. 4. Hilario, Major F. Ignacio Rickard (Anglo- Argentine Co., Limited); cost and capital invested $500,000 Bol. (1). Messrs. Babie & Co.'s works are situate close to the Castauo mines, on the river of that name, and are exclusively smeltiug works, on precisely the same principle as those of La Huerta, having been originally built by an ex-employe of that establishment. They consist of two small blast furnaces — a wretched attempt at a calcining or reverberatory furnace — - and, ditto, cupelling or refining furnace. They have a horizontal water wheel, with about eight feet head, and may get, perhaps, 6-horse power effective. Their blowing apparatus was formerly two pairs of bellows, but now consists of an ordinary flat-bladed circular fan, incapable of producing a suCBciently strong blast, owing to its faulty gearing and unsteady movement of the driving wheel or drum, which is sixteen feet in diameter by six inches wide, driving with a three-inch belt on to an inch and a-half pulley, fixed on the axle of the fan ! Their annual production of silver will scarcely reach 2,000 marks, and much loss erf precious metal must be sustained from the imperfect and careless system pursued about the works. Their proximity to the Castailo mi^jes and firewood are, however, their great redeeming points, and thus they are enabled to work with comparative advantage. (2). The works of Don Rafael Fragueiro were only capable of treating ores by amalgamation, hence only those known as «calidos» or holding chlorides, chloro-bromides, bromo-iodides, or native silver, could be treated with advantage, and as few of the ores of the district contain their silver exclusively in these combinations, the speculation, in a commercial, as well as metallurgical point of view,, was a failure. They are now completely abandoned, and the old amalgamation barrels may be seen HO MINING IN SAN JUAN. strewn about on the heaps of relaves or tailings, becoming every day more useless from exposure to the scorching sun and dry atmosphere of this elevated valley. (3). La Sorocayense.— Leaving Sefior Fragueiro's works, and proceeding south up the valley of Barrial or Calingasta, about three leagues distant, is situate Hilario, and about two leagues still further south in the same valley, on the Tontal road, are situate the works enjoying the rather unique and to many unintelligible name above expressed. Its derivation is traceable to the system of amalgamation used, and which has its origin in a small place in Bolivia named Sorocaya. The system employed is properly amalgamation ; but the ores are previously subjected to a species of calcination with common salt, having for its ostensible object the conversion of the silver into chloride, and thus rendering it extractable by amalgamation with mercury. This end is not, however, by any means satisfactorily attained, owing to the nature of the ores treated; still, a fair amount of silver is extracted, averaging about six marks, or forty-five ounces, daily. The ore is ground very fine by edge- runners, and passed through a sieve having 3,600 holes to the square inch, after which it is calcined for from five to eight hours in a reverberatory furnace, with about five per cent, of common salt, at a very low temper- ature, and kept constantly turned and stirred to prevent agglutination. It is then withdrawn, and when cold, is charged into an oblong trough about twelve feet by four, and four deep, accompanied by mercury, Avhere it is gently agitated by a cylinder having a horizontal motion, and kept in intimate contact with the mercury for several hours ; when finished, the mass of ore (called tailings) is washed off by water and conveyed into large pits or deposits, where it is allowed to settle, and is again, when dry, subjected to a further calcination, in case it should have retained sufficient silver to pay expenses of treatment. The mercury in the trough, now charged with silver, is drawn off and strained through canvass bags, in which a rich amalgam of silver, combined with about six times its weight of mercury, remaiifs. This is subsequently pressed hard, and placed in an iron retort, connected with a condensing apparatus, where the remaining mercury is distilled off by heat and recovered, leaving the now almost pure silver in a beautiful white porous mass, Avhich may be fused into ingots and sent to market. This silver is, however, rarely so pure as that obtained by smelting the ores with galena, and refining the argentiferous lead. (4). miario. — These works are situate in the valley of Calingasta, Tontal district, thirty-three leagues S.S.W. by AV. from San Juan city, and forty- eight leagues N.N.W. from Mendoza, in lat. 31 deg. 20min., S., and long, HILARIO MUSING WORKS. 141 69 deg. 90mm. W. from Greenwich, at an elevation of 5,624 feet above sea level, are the largest metallurgical works in the Republic, and adapted to both systems, smelting and amalgamation. The machinery for the latter was made by Messrs. John Taylor and Sons of London, and consists, in part, of barrels on the Freyberg system, and 'tinas' on the Chilian system. The full working power or capacity of both, may be set down at ten tons of crude ore in the twenty-four hours. The motive power is a large turbine with thirty-three feet head, and discharge pipe two feet six inches in diameter. The effective horse-power may beset down at ninety-live. To this turbine is also geared the grinding machinery, edge-runners and a small extra blowing fan. But by far the largest and most important part of the works is dedicated to the smelting and refiniug with their attendant ore, charcoal and wood deposits. The ground actually occupied by the establishment coders over twelve acres, not including the houses, stores, &c., for peones, occupying a street without the works. The system of smelting followed at Hilario has some resemblance, as a whole, to Messrs. Klappenbach's, but is, in detail, very different. It is in fact as nearly as possible the same as the present improved system carried out at Pontgibaud, France, managed by Messrs. J. Taylor & Sons, the celebrated mine agents of Loudon. The ores, mixed in certain proportions, are calcined ' dead ' in a reverberatory furnace of peculiar construction having a ' double ' sole, on one of which is completed the agglomeration and fusion into a liquid slag, care being taken that no reduction to metallic lead takes place. The smelting or fusion of this roasted ore is conducted in the class of blast furnaces known as the Castilliau furnace, having three 'tuyeres' and large capacity. Each furnace is capable of smelting, of tolerably fusible ore, up to six and eight tons in the twenty-four hours with a consumption of about sixty quintals of charcoal. Two sets of three men are employed at each furnace in shifts of twelve hours each set, and are paid — the foreman (English) ^60 B. a month, the second hand^SOB., and the third S20B. per month ; all without rations, but with house accommodation and fuel. The blowing machine is a powerful fan five feet in diameter, driven up to 1800 revolutions per minute by a twenty-five horse power turbine, with 33ft. head and 2ft. lin. diameter discharge pipe. The wind from this fan is sent to different parts of the establishment, partly in pipes and partly by cemented brickwork flues, so as to be available for the silver lead refining furnaces and the forge fires. The argentiferous lead produced from the Gastillian furnace, being hard, 142 MiixmG m san juan. is first ' improved ' or softened in an improving furnace of the rever- beratory class, and when freed from any copper, antimony, arsenic, or iron, which may have been reduced with it, is relined direct on a bone-ash cupel or test by what is known as the English system, silver is thus obtained by one cupellation up to 995-thousandths fine. I should here observe that Pattinson's process of crystallising out pure lead and concentrating the silver for refining, as practised at Pontgibaud and other works, is not used at Hilario. But this omission is by no means prejudicial ; on the contrary, very little; if any, advantage would be derived by its adoption there, because the argentiferous lead produced direct from the blast furnace averages over one per cent of silver, and it is a recognized fact that any attempt at enriching lead, by Pattinson's process, beyond 2 per cent, has commercially failed. Hence the concentration is rarely carried beyond this figure, and the system is only adapted where there are large quantities of poor lead produced, which would be unprofitable to refine direct. At Hilario there are three furnaces of the reverberatory class, with one refining furnace on the English system, and two Castillian blast furnaces. The ore deposits are capable of storing over a thousand tons, divided into compartments with tiled floors, and numbered. Each compartment having its Dr. and Cr. account in a separate book for entries from mines and deliveries to the furnaces, hence at a glance it may be determined what stock remains on hand, and how much has been worked up, without the trouble of re-weighing. ' The Chemical Laboratory for analysis and assays by the humid method is a complete department in itself, and most perfectly fitted up. In succession follows the weighing room with its fine assay balances indicating up to the 1 000th part of an English grain ; also large bullion balances for weighing the silver in ingots, with the corresponding sets of stamping numbers and letters in steel for marking their weight and fineness. IN'ext to this room is the assay laboratory proper, with its rows of miniature furnaces and muffles, for assaying and experimenting on the ores by the 'dry' methods; here, when in fall work, up to 100 assays are made daily. , In the same range of buildings are the carpenters-shop and smithy, separate, for all sorts Of repairs and work necessary about the establish- ment. Turning lathes, drilling machines, and the various tools necessary for mechanical engineering, may be seen about, for, being isolated as the works are, in the heart of the Andes, it is essential to have all tliese conveniences for any emergency which might arise. HILAKIO MISING WORKS. 143 The wood 'caucba' for piling the fuel for the furnaces is extensive and conveniently situate on a slight elevation above the reverberatory furnaces, for only in these is crude wood used. On a lower level, in a large open space, may be seen the immense, INoah's ark shaped, mounds of wood charcoal, as prepared for the blast furnaces. Each pile is 200 feet long by 18 feet wide and 12 feet high, composed chiefly of algarroba and retamo wood, laid longitudinally and evenly, with their ventilating flues beneath, so as to graduate the admission of atmospheric air, and thus govern the slow combu-stion of volatile gases in order to produce good charcoal. This branch of operations at Hilario requires almost as much study and care as any other, although apparently so simple and common-place. The wood when well charred, produces about 30 per cent, of hard, solid, shining charcoal, but if carelessly prepared the produce is much reduced, and the quality, as a caloric and reducing agent, seriously detefiorated. The mounds of wood are overlaid with long grass or reeds (totora) and covered with earth. The time necessary to burn one of these mounds varies from eight to fifteen days, and requires other fifteen days careful attention to extinguish. The charcoal, delivered at the furnace house, costs 50 cents per quintal of lOOtl, made by contract with natives who cut and carry the wood from the camp, preferring to make it at the works ; although apparently much more advantageous to them to make it where the wood is cut, and thus reduce the weight carried by 70 per cent. The manager, however, prefers the charcoal made at the works, as in the first place it is produced under his immediate supervision, and is delivered almost intact, thereby avoiding the waste of a large percentage of small coal, totally useless, and highly injurious in the blast furnace. The manufacture of firebricks, also forms a most imijortant feature in the works; for were it necessary to import from Em-ope or Chile this indispensable and largely consumed article, the cost would be very great. Fire-clays abound in the neighbourhood, and by a careful selection, the mixture used at Hilario, affords a very excellent refractory brick, well suited for lead furnaces. They are made by dry pressnu'e, and some turned out during the present year at a cost of §^0 Bol. per^ thousand have been used in a blast furnace which ran 178 days without a single brick having to be replaced. The cost of best Stourbridge lire-bricks (Ruffords) imported from England and placed at Hilario, is about 40 cents each, or S^OO per thousand. Beyond the immediate precincts of the works but forming part of the property are several hoases,^in which are general dry goods and provision 144 MINING IN SAN JUAN. Stores, baker's and butcher's shops, as also a cafe or hotel with billiard room, &c., rented to outsiders, and forming a most essential part of the establishment. When in full work, the concourse of miners, employes, ore vendors, muleteers, &c., which accumulate, is sometimes astonishing, and the occupiers of these houses make a fair business on their own account. Some distance from the works is a grass farm rented for the use of the animals required about the establishment. The tariff for the purchase of silver ores, delivered at Hilario, is as follows (Bolivian currency) : — From 20 to 30 ] marks per cajon of 64 quintals $3.50 Do. 31 to 40 do. do. do. do. do. 4.00 Do. 41 to 50 do. do. do. do. do. 4.75 Do. 51 to 60 do. do. do. do. do. 5.. 50 Do. 61 to. 70 do. do. do. do. do. 6.00 Do. 71 to 80 do. do. do. do. do. 6.25 Do. 81 to 90 do. do. do. do. do. 6.50 Do, 91 to 100 do. do. do. do. do. 6.75 Do. 101 to 150 do. do. do. do. do. 7.25 Do. 151 to 200 do. do. do. do. do. 7.50 Do. 201 to 300 do. do. do. do. do. 7.75 Do. 301 to 400 do. do. do. do. do. 7.87i Do. 401 to 600 do. do. do, do. do. 8.00 Do. 601 to 800 do. do. do. do. do. s.m Do. 801 to 1000 do. do. do. do. do. 8.25 Do. 1000 up^ wards do. do. do. do. do. 8.50 Per mark of pure silver. The Messrs. Babie & Co.'s tariff differs considerably from the above as they base their calculations on a different system of working. They deduct, in the first place, from every cajon of fifty quintals fourteen marks of the silver contained therein, and pay for the remainder at the rate of ^lObol. per mark of pure silver, according to assay. MENDOZA. Although this Province, 'during Spanish rule, was celebrated for its mineral wealth, and large quantities of silver were annually extracted from the ores produced in the Paramillo de Uspallata, it has so degenerated iu metallurgical and mining enterprise, that were it not for a few energetic and persevering individuals, now toiling in the old mines of that district, it scarcely merits a passing notice in this work. THE PARAMILLO MINES. 145 In the year 1865, the Paramillo mines were visited by the Government Inspector General (Major Rickard), and after a careful examination he resolved to make a few trials, by cutting in great depth, by means of adit levels, some of the celebrated old veins which produced rich ore in former times. Operations were commenced in company with Don Eustaquio Villanueva, a resident there, and up to the breaking out of the revolution in 1866, the workings produced fairly, although not yet into the workings of the Spaniards. Of course all was paralysed during the Federals' sway, and Mr. Villanueva was obliged, like many others, to seek refuge in Chili in order to save his throat and his purse. Whilst in the sister republic he formed the acquaintance of Seilor Don Antonio del Canto, a Chilian miner and copper smelter of much experience, whom he induced to come over and examine the mines. Early in 1867 operations were commenced by these men, following up the adit^ commenced in I860, and re-establishing various old workings on other veins, including some copper deposits. ' Seiior del Canto formed the project of smelting copper ores at the mines, and producing, by a proper admixture of the silver ores, an argentiferous regulus of copper, which commands a high price in Europe. This idea had the advantage, if realized, of utilizing the. immense quantities of poor silver ores, which in their crude state are almost valueless ; the high rates of freight, to an available market, rendering their export commercially impossible. His object was, therefore, to concentrate, by a series of fusions with copper ores, the silver cx)ntaincd in them, and thus, raised to a high standard, in small bulk, realize them with profit. Many difficulties, natural to the district and country, generally presented themselves, but wth praiseworthy determination, this industrious Chilian, we are glad to say, has so far, surmounted them. The weary Andine traveller is now relieved of the tiresome monotony presented by barren, desolate wastes, on his route to Chfle, by the sudden and almost magical appearance of a well constructed copper furnai^, with its slender chimney, towering some 40 feet above the mountain gorge, and the orderly, civilised aspect of a neat row of buildings perched on the side of a steep hill. The great drawback of the undertaking is the scarcity of fuel ; very little wood, or more properly brushwood, is to be found on the barren hills in the vicinity. But Mr. Canto has determined to utilise as an auxiliary fuel, the bituminous shales (erroneously termed coal by the natives) which abound within a few yards of his furnace grate. These hold about 25 to 30 per cent, of combustible matter^ but the immense accumulation of ash 146 MENDOZA MINE^. pn the fire bars renders it a most troublesome and difficult matter to i^gulate the temperature of the furnace. - •, The result of the first trials, with this fufeljp'«rse, ialfti'ost (iau^fed him to abandon in despair the idea of using it ; but later on, heciessity obliged hira %o revert to it again, and we are now informed that by Using 50 per cent, of wood he can maintain a good temperature. He has to adopt two fire places for each furnace; the one permanent for wood, and the other Jnoveable and farther in, for tlie shale. Ilius, when a grate full of this stuff has given off all its combustible matter, the bulk still remaining the same, be is obliged to remove tlve bars bodily, and discharge the useless slates into the ash-pit to make room for another charge, 'i ip loihtm. I'M^cnn bur. He has already produced a fair amount of argentiferous copper regiilus holding 150 marks per cajon,for 368 ozs. silver to the ton, with from 30 to 40 per ceqt. of copper. Tliis sells in Valparaiso (at the present time) for fi|)<^u^g|l,,200s. percajpnof ^xty-four quintals, and consequently pays well. .J,, The mining operations proper, have of late produced some A^ery rich ore, |n jt^ijB old wprkhigs commencedjn 1865 by Major Hickard, with the view of passing the {unproductive blende bands (similar to those of Tontal) where |iiej^avje<5ut silver ore in fftir abundance, holding over a thousand ounces' |o tbie ti>ji, thus bearingout the theory of expected riches, in depth, on' the Xi ,tyio\*notli ^^r ia^ido jriWe'dre authehtically informed that Messrs. Canto and Yillanueva have some $20,000 Bol. worth of rich ore, now on surface, awaiting the opening pf,^tlie Cumbre pass to remit to Chile.. They have some 200 miners and others employed in the Paramillo, together with about twenty miners on a copper ore vein some thirty leagues south of Mendoza, Avhence they are obliged to bring the necessary 11 axes , Ipv .smelting, and form the jregulus at the works in the Paramill^.^|n| ^,j ofnct ^id no ,h£ I .y.'^'he capital invested in Ihining in Mendoza at the present day does not •exceed^§50,000 Bol.,'but should the Paramillo works continue to improve, it is reasonable to expect a proportionate increase in speculative enterprise. The. Paramillo mines and works are situated about tAventy-three leagues W.N.W. from Mendoza, on the high road to Chile, via Uspallata and La Cumbre pass. Their elevation above the sea is not less than 10,000 feet, and the cold, nearly the Avhole year round, is most intense. ,.j The only potable Avater available, near the Avorks, are two small springs, ■which are made the most of by accumulating their Avater in large tanks of solid masonry. SAN LUIS MIXES. fnf The soufh of the Province is sSid to be very rich in minerals, but the Indians take good care that their territory is hot violated by the white man; hence ^ the hidden treasures" of the , earth in those districts must remain to tempt the cupidity of a future, and 'more adventurous race. A. specimen from San Bafael, lately found, has' proved on examination by Major Rickard, to be a new species: it holds 70 per cent, of copper combined with antimony. Extensive deposits of an impure petroleum exist about seventy leagues from the city, south, but from their isolated position and want of roads, must for the present remain commercially worthless. SAX LUIS. The only mining industry, at present developed, in this Province, is gold digging and washing, if we except a puny attempt at copper smelting lately essayed by a German, who, we are told, tried to make an auriferous regulus of copper by direct fusion of carbonates, silicates and oxides of that metal, having (we suppose' forgotten the important sulphurous compound. We have no authentic data as to 'the value of gold produced at the present day: but according to official returns corresponding to tlie year 1865, it appears that there were 1^7 miners employed on eight mines, and had produced 800 marks of gold, valued at $89,6001)01. We are informed that some very productive quartz veins are now being worked by a few Chilian mining adventurers, and with fair returns ; but as they have only recentlv begun, no correct idea tin yiet be formed of the enterprise. The gold usually produced from the washings is of a vef y iirfe'^iol' quality, rarely passing .750 pure gold in a tliousalid, the" remaining '.250 being mostly silver. i j . The mining distncts^afe si'tu^te towards the north of ti!i^' Pilovince, distant from twelve to eighteen leagues fi-om the capital. '*^'^^ ' *'• In conclusion, thtre exists a vast field for speculative enterprise in the Cuyo Provinces, where the industry may be said to be yet in its infancy. And, witli the briglit prospects of national prosperity, advancement, civilization, and peace, which the Republic nowenjc^s, beneath the popular rule of her distinguished President, the fullest development of her hidden treasures is to be hoped and looked for. His Excellency, Governor Sarmiento, initiated the pioneer mining enterprise in San Juan. His Excellency, President Sarmiento, is still in time to prune and train up the tender ' vine-shoot,^ and by the genial sun of his protecting influencCj make it bear the much desired fruit. l2 i48 klappenbach's mining report. Ue has already, we believe, taken an important step in this direction, by naming a person to proceed in commission through all the provinces and report extensively on the mineral resources of the country. Once this report shall have been handed in to the Government, important projects will be laid before Congress, tending to the development, not only of the raining, but other staple industries of the Republic. F. IGISACIO RiCKARD, F.G.S., as up to 1866 fifty-five marks of pure silver to the cajon (or 50 qq.) of Jre, equal to 176 oz. silver to one ton of ore. KLAPPEIVBACH'S COMPANY. '14^9 In 1867, sixty-two marks pure silver, equal to 198 oz. to one ton of ore ; and the ley has increased this year to seventy-six marks pure silver to the cajon, equal to 272 oz. of pure silver to one ton of ore. Messrs. F. S. KlappenbachandCo. have lately changed their society into a company in Buenos Ayres called the «San Juan Mining and Smelting Co.,» capital §230,0008., divided into 230 shares of g 1,000s. each. The folio Vising gentlemen form the Board of Directors, &c. — Constant ^anta Maria, .... .... President. F. Wanklyn, .... Director. H. Ebbinghaus, .... do. H. Heberard, .... do. J. Aldao, do. A. Scharff, Secretary. F. S. Klappenbach, .... .... .... Manager in S. Juan. The future of the company is most promising, entering as it does into a field of action already explored and prepared for it, in which it will have but to reap the fruit. ^ The mines of La Huerta, whose richness and abundance are well recognised, only require hands to give brilliant results, giving new elements of greatness and prosperity to the country, and at the same time offering scope for the formation of new and greater undertakings. 150 HISTORY AND LITERATURE. 7li> b'WKif ^0 .xt> £\£' oi limp'^ .'iM"vii('r .VIKJD'rOS' und^fikUlH .if CHAP, XIII. - ; . HrSTORY AISD LITEHATimE OF RIVER PLATE . HISTORICAL RECORD. 1515 — River Plate discovered by Juaji Diaz de Solis. 1527 — Sebastian Cabot explores the Parana and Uruguay. 1530 — Buenos Ayres founded, under invocation of the Holy Trinity. 1531 — The fort and settlement destroyed by the Indians. 1535 — Second foundation by Pedro de Mendoza : also destroyed. •1537 — Asuncion del Paraguay founded by Ayola. 1544 — Irala greatly extends the Spanish dominions. 1553 — Santiago del Estero founded by Aguirre. 1555 — Arrival of the first bishop, Francisco la Torre. 1559 — Garcia de Mendoza founds Mendoza and San Juan. 1565 — Villaroel founds Tucuman. 1573 — Cabrera founds Cordova. 1573 — Juan de Garay founds Santa Fe city. 1580 — He marks out the city of Buenos Ayres, June 1 1th. 1582 — Lerma founds Salta, 1588 — Corrientes founded by Alonzo de Vera. 1591 — Velazco founds Rioja, and, in 1592, Jujuy. 1596 — Loyola founds San Luis. HISTORICAL RECORD. 151 yrnn hht ro ?.A&off 1609— Jesuit missions of Paraguay founded by Padres Mazeta and Cataldini. n i; ' ■ ■' 1622 — Jesuit missions along the upper Uruguay, •mdt motltw^: — l'B8l 1 628 — Paulista Indians carry off 60,000 captives from ?irisiones'. ■ 1680 — Colonia founded by the Portuguese. 1726^Montevideo founded by Zavala, Governor of Buenos Ayi^s.- ■" ' 1730— Spain cedes Misiones to Portugal; Indian settlements broken up. 1767 — Expulsion of the Jesuits ; destruction of the ^lisiones. 1776— Viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres created, under Pedro de Zebalfef^. 1782— Census; Buenos Ayres territory, 170,832 inhabitants, dnd Paraguay 97,480. -; ., , ;;,a ^ ^ ;. ^.i ■-,> :./.;„:.:.... •^.<;i .;;::-:'ii '•' 1 8p6— -English invasioa cmder General Beresford, wHo idapittil^tes . ' • 1807 — Second invasion, under General AVhitelocke, who also capitulatesi 1808 — Liniers named Vice-roy. .;! uilJ Jr<'.o-it>ii bjiji 1810 — Revolution of Buenos Ayres, May 25th. ' • - ■• 1811 — Belgrano invades Paraguay, and capitulates.' .)— '081 1812 — He beats the Spaniards at Tucuman and Salta. 1 itiaflsi^— Bi)'^l 1814 — Spanish garrison expelled fromiMontevideo. " * " ' ' 1 8 1 5 — Campaign of Artigas in Banda-.Griental . 1816 — ^Declaration, of Argentine Independence, at Tucuman, Jiily9th. 1818 — General San Martin beats the Spaniards at Maypu, and eman- cipates Chile. • ' '-''-^ ' ^ "> - ■ ■ 1821 — He liberates Peru, and enters Limaih triumph. 1821 — ^Banda Oriental aolieied to Brazil. ) ^rs.'^nuC oit>yi/. 1825 — ^Revolution of Lavalleja and thirty-two others. .-'■'■ 'T " ■• ' H 1825 — Fructos Rivero beats the Brazilians at Rincon'Gallinas. 1826 — Buenos Ayrefe declares Avar against Brazil.. ' I' .; . . '•'^' 1826 — Admiral Brown chastises the Brazilians. \'ii>'iiul. 1826 — Rivadavia introduces many reforms. -.-i-- i .JAu&X -lOi .. 1827 — Alvear beats the Brazilians at Ituzaingo.. fcii^QB'ifi^J nroil f.i^fi^l 1828 — Brazil gives up Bauda Oriental, and makes peaceil faoil rXomiH 1828 — England guarantees the independence of Band^lOrictiftalofl-s*;'!/ 1830 to 1852— .Civil wars, and tyranny of Rosas. ; -" 'A ■' \ oroliifAr 1852 — Rosas overthrown by Urquiz a. . • .. "i }. 1853 — Urquiza expelled from Buenos Ayresf. 1856 — Introduction of gas. , ^ ■ ■ = ' . ' 1857 — lAVestern Railway inaugurated ;. tJje first iu. these countritei.ncH 1859 — Battle of iCepeda : Buenos Ajtcs capitulates. ;] .nih .. 1860 — Buenos Ayres re-enters the Argentine Confederatioii.'* 1861 — Dreadful earthquake at Mendoza. i 152 WORKS ON THE RIVEB PLATE. 1861 — Battle of Pavon : gained by General Mitre. 1862 — Northern Railway works commenced. 1 862 — General Mitre unanimously elected President. 1863 — Flores invades the Banda Oriental. 1 863— Inauguration of Central Argentine Railway works at Rosario. 1864 — Brazil invades the Banda Oriental. 1864 — Southern Railway, to Chascomus, begun. 1865 — Montevideo surrenders. : 1865 — Paraguay declares war. 1865 — Boca and Ensenada Railway opened to Barracas. 1866 — The Allied army (Argentines, Brazilians, and Orientals) invade Paraguay. 1866 — Electric cable laid across the River Plate. 1867 — Siege of Humaiti. 1867 — Government-house at Buenos Ayres twice burned. 1868 — General Flores murdered at Montevideo. 1868— Paraguayans abandon Humaita. 1868 — Water-Avorks begun at Btifenos Ayres. 1868 — Don Domingo F. Sarmiento elected President. WORKS PUBLISHED OK THE RIVER PLATE. . Schmidel's Conquest of La Plata, in 1534. Nuremberg, 1559. - Alvaro Nufiez's Commentaries. Madrid, 1560. ^-^5 History of Paraguay and La Plata. By Buy Diaz dc Guzman. 1573. Jesuit Missions. By Charleroix and Guevara. Relation of R. M.'s Voyage to Buenos Ayres, &c. London, 1716. • Muraturi's missions. (English translation). London, 1759. Father Faulkner's Patagonia, in Latin. England, 1774. ' Letters from Paraguay. By John C. Davie. London, 1805. ' Travels from Buenos Ayres to Lima, &c. By A. Z. Helms. London, 1806. Vice-Royalty of Buenos Ayres. By Sam. H. Wilcocke. London, 1807. Whitelocke^s Expedition. By an Officer. London, 1808. Rio de la Plata. By Felix Azara. Paris, 1809. Dean Funes's History of Paraguay, &c. Buenos Ayres, 1816. Captain Head's Ride Across the Pampas. London, 1828. Humboldt's Travels in South America. Price, 12s. C^d. London, 1831. The Chaco and Rio Yermejo. By Arenales. Buenos Ayres, 1833. Castelnau's Expedition to Sonth America. Paris, 1836. Plata — Staaten. By Kerst. Berlin. Robertson's Letters on Paraguay. Edinburgh, 1838. WORKS OIV THE RIVER PLATE. 155 Pedro do Angelis's Records of Buenos Ayres. Buenos Ayres, 1839. Robertson's Francia's Reign of Terror. London, 1840. Id., Letters on South America. London, 1843. Researches by Fitzroy and Darwin. London, 1844. M'Cann's Adventures in the Pampas. Dublin, 1846. Colonel King's Souvenirs of Buenos Ayres. New York, 1847. D'Orbigny's Scientific Travels. Paris, 1847. Buenos Ayres, from the Conquest. By Sir W. Parish, London, 1852, Map of the Republic of Uruguay. By General Reyes. Montevideo, 1853. Mansfield's Paraguay and River Plate, London, 1854. La Province de Buenos Ayres, Par Heusser et Claraz. Zurich, 1854. Commander Page's La Plata. New York, 1856. Celebridades Argentinas. Buenos Ayres, 1859. La Confederation Argentine. By M. de Moussy. Paris, 1860. The Argentine Republic. By Colonel Du Graty. Brussels, 1861. Republic of Paraguay. By the same, Brussels, 1862. M'Coll's Guide to Montevideo. Price„3.s. Qd. London, 1862. Hinchcliff's South American Sketches. Price, 12."?, 6rf. London, 1862. Handbook to the River Plate. By M. G. & E. T. Mulhall. Buenos Ayres, 1863. Rickard's Journey Across the Andes. Price, 7s. 6d. London, 1863, Historia Argentina. ByDominguez. Buenos Ayres, 1864. Burmeister's Travels in the Provinces. Berlin, 1864. Alberdi on the Argentine Republic, Paris, 1864, Pillado's Guia de Buenos Ayres, Price, ^50 m^^. Buenos Ayres, 1864. Hutchinson's Argentine Gleanings. Price, 16s, 6rf. London, 1866. Solveyra's Street Directory. Price, $80 m^. Buenos Ayres, 1866. Palliere's River Plate Album. 52 plates. g500m^fc, Buenos Ayres, 1866. An Account of Paraguay. By Ch. Quentin. London, 1866. Map of Province of Buenos Ayres. Topographical Department, ^^^^^^^b- Buenos Ayres, 1866, States of the River Plate. By W. Latham. Price, 12s. London, 1867. The Argentine Alps. By Ross Johnston. London, 1867. Modern Paraguay. By M. Poucel, Paris, 1867. Map of City of Buenos Ayres. Topographical Department. §500 m^. Buenos Ayres, 1868. Random Sketches of Buenos Ayres. Edinburgh, 1868. Life in the Argentine Republic. By His Excellency President Sarmiento. Price, 8s. New^ York, 1868. Hadfield's Visit to La Plata. Price, 10s. M. London, 1868. 154 PRESS OF LA PLATA. . ■ t - RIVER PLATE NEWSPAPERS. ". Buenos Ayres. ' .^. The Tribuna was established in 1854 by Hector and Mariano Yarela, sons of the distinguished writer D. Floreneio Yarela. It is the first paper in the River Plate, as regards influence and circulation. It appears every morning; subscription §40 a month. Circulation 5,000. The Repiiblica was established in 1867 by Mr. Bernheim, and has been very successful as an experiment of a cheap press. It appears every morning; subscription, §25 a month. Circulation, 4,000. The Nacion Argentina vfdiS established in 1862, by Dr. Jose Maria Gutierrez, and was regarded as the official organ of General Mitre's administration. It appears every morning ; subscription, §40 a month. Circulation, 2,000. The Nacional is the oldest paper in Buenos Ayres, having beei^ established in 1853. Among its editors, at various times, have been General Mitre, Pres. Sarmiento, Dr. V. Sarsfield, Dr. Avellaneda, and other leading public men. It appears every evening, subscription $40 a month. Circulation, 2,000. The Standard ^\ as established in 1861 by Michael and Edward Thomas Mulhall, being the first English daily ever published in South America. It has three editions, the Dailf/ for Buenos Ayres and Montevideo, the Week!?/ for the country departments, the Fortnightly for Europe : subscription for Daily §.30, for Weekly §200 a. year; Fortnightly £1 a year. Circulation, 3,000. The Courrier de la Plata was established by JI. Legout in 1864, as the organ of the French population. It appears every morning ; subscription, §30 a month. Circulation, 1,200. . , i The JKsp«/i«, a tri- weekly organ of the Spanish.residents. \l The America, a new daily paper ; subscription, §30. log The Deutsche Zeititng wan established in 1866, its present editor being Mr. Napp. It appears every morning ; subscription, §30 a month. . Th^e Nazio7ie Italiana was established in 1868, by Dr. Bianchi. It appears every morning : subscription, §30 a month. The Intereses Argentines is a paper of a religious character. It was established in 1868 ; subscription, §30 a month. il" The Mosquito is a weekly 'charivari,' illustrated. . It was established in 1863; subscription, §20 a month. • The Revista de Buenos Ayres is a valuable monthly periodical, established! iu 1862, by Drs. Navarro Viola and Quesada ; subscription ,§30 a month. The Bevista Argentina, established in 1868, by Jose M. Estrada, is similar to the last. Appears fortnightly ; subscriptions, §30 a month. ) PRESS OF MOJITE VIDEO. 155 Annates de la Sociedad Ritral is the name of a monthly farming gazette, published by the Rural Society. Montevideo. The ^jjr/o was first established in 1863, but suppressed by Government in the following year. It re-appeared in 1865, under M. Vaillant, and is now edited by Dr. Eamirez. It appears every morning ; subscription ^1 a month. Circulation, 2,000. The Tribuna was established by Colonel Bustamante in 1866, and is edited by Seuor Tavolara. It is considered the olBcial paper. It appears every morning; subscription, %1 a month. Circulation, 1,500. There is an evening edition called the Tribunita. The Telegrafo Maritimo is an old established shipping gazet-te, published every afternoon by D. Juan Buela. The Merca/itil del PkUa was established in 1868, and appears every morning. The Orden is a morning paper, edited by Sr. Gordillo. The Progreso is a small evening paper, also of recent date. Rosario. The Capital is a daily paper, established in 1868. The Federal ista, also new, appears likewise daily. Cordoba . The Eco de Cordoba is the only daily paper in the interior. . Entre-Rios.\ i The Urugvay published at Concepcion, is edited by Sr. Victorica. It is considered General Urquiza's official orga^, aj^ appears daily. The Sonanario, official organ, appears weekly at Asuncion. The Cabiehuy, is a weekly 'charivari.' -- * . - ' There are numerous smalls weekly papers puDlished m the provincial towns, Tiz.: at 3an. Juan,(Mendoza, Salta, Tucuman, Corrientes, Parana, Santa F6, Salto, P.aygandu, Colonia, &c. 156 MOWEYS, WEIGHTS, MEASURES CHAP. XIY. MONEYS, WEIGHTS, MEASUREjS, AND DISTANCES. BUENOS AYAES. Ire Buenos Ayres the basis of the currency is the paper dollar or «peso,)) >vorth 2([)• 1.; Spanish Leagfues. . .. 2,500 ... 2,200 ... 1,550 .:. 850 ... 700 ... 450 ... 2,300 !,800 1,250 01:1 -10 0,01 Spanish Leagues. "' IRosario (S. Fe) '^^^ahta Fe, '^'y!?! Parana, .... Californian Colony, Cape San Roque, .... 920 '' Rio Grandp do Sul 150 '^ Montevideo, VU'; " 40* Bahia Blanca, J^:'^"- ^00 Welsh Colony, 350 Falkland Islands, 450 Magellan's Straits, 600 ' Cape Horn, 680 t tail ; t/f^n *i'^q f- \ lo Jiiuooj^ib b River Paranivfr ,r>tvyv*u'-, v :\'nr;\t\\\4t jf..ji 75 La Paz, ill i;^/fe iH')nt:>m ibnf>-il oi'' 9ii1 /irfe^ Boeas;' ^i c^v^ T>fHf'rHumayta, i'iti. Rio Vermejo, mouth, 'MM Villa Pilar, Tebiquary, mouth, Villa Franca, Villa Oliva, Asuncion, .... Rosario, San Pedro, Concepcion, .... U1 115' ' .... 160 U(I iir W; •->'■•■ River Paraguay. Esqtliria, Goya, .... Bella Vista,- Corrientes, 180 210 230 nhcij,'> 278 280 290 300 315 340 .365 380 400 Salvadof, ' Rio Appa, mouth, Siete Puntas, Pan do Azucajf ,;,,*/« Fort Olympo, Rio Negro, mouth, Fort Coimbra, Albuquerque, Curumba, Guy aba. 420 440 450 460 475 500 510 530 555 6i0 i^.i in TABLE OP DISTANCES. .frj-io7 upper Par and. 159 Paso la Patria, . -. . , 270 Falls of Apipe, '('i7.o/o310 Trauquerade Loreto, 315 Itapua *fe Caadelaria, ooijcli id FrayBentos, Rio >'egro, mouth Gualeguaychii, Concepcion, Pavsandii, Concordia, Salto, ...-. «.j .... .... Frayle -Maerto , ''..".. Rio Cuarto, .... Cordoba, • '^' '.V.'. Mendoza; • . .•'. . The Andes, San Juan,. w • • Klappenba^h's mines, 335 River 20 40 50 70 80 108 upper 100 130 150 170 225 2/0, , •^45 270 Falls of Guritiba, Rio Tacuari, mouth, Salto d^ Guayra, . . . Uruguay. Santa Rosa, ... Uruguay ana. La Cruz, Itaqui, Santo Tome, . ... San Borja, 400 425 450 140 160 180 182 207 208 :.;?ni Provinces. t'KJi Hilurio woi'ks, .... ' 255 Rrioja, ■'"250 tiatamarca, '.IV 260 Tacuman; •'• • . 270 Santiago del Estero^ 220 Salta, 310 Of*an, Rio.^Vermejp,^j _ j,^pO Provinc(^ of^ B^uenos'^Aifrcs. South. Cauuelas, San Vicente, — . Lobos, .... .... jN'avapro, . • • • « ' Guardia Mon^e,^. i . . Rauchos, - .... Chascomus^ 25 de Mayo, Paso de Rocha, Las Flores, Dolores, Ensenada, Magdalena, Tuyu, .... Montes Grandes, Tandil, •re 11 10 18 19 20 32 39 10 19 46 59 60 Tapalqueu, ;^. ., „,|.jf;^.. Sierra Quillalanqueo, Azul, .... Arroyo Chapaleofii, 31ar Chiquita, Sierra Tiuta, .... Cinco Lomas; .... Liberia, Cape Corrientes> , Laguna ^os Padres, Necochea, .... yirroyo Pillahuinco, Tres Arroyos, .... Sierra La Ventana, Bahia Blanca, .... . 48 62 55 52 66 69 70 65. 78 74 80 90 98 103 115 160 METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. North. Pilar, 10 Cepeda, 43 Capilla, 14 Arroyo Medio, . . . 46 Zarate, 16 Arroyo Pavon, . . . 48 Giles, 20 Arrecifes, . . . . 33 San Antonio, 21 Fortin Areco, . . . . 27 Baradero, 27 Salto, 3i San Pedro, ... 31 Pergamino, . . . . 42 Obligado, 35 Rojas, .... 43 Las Hermanas, . 39 Fort Chaflar, 56 Kamallo, 44 Fort Melincue, . . . . 60 San Nicobs, 45 India Maerta, iSt. 61 Rodriguez, 10 Chacabuco, 36 Lujan, 13 Junin, 45 Mercedes, ... 20 Fort Ranch, 44 Freyre, ... 2$ Nueve de Julio, . . . 48 Gorostiaga, ... 28 Tigre Muerto, 55 Chivilcoy, 31 Fort Vallimanca, . . . 47 Bragado, ... 39 Saiadillo, 33 METEOROLOGICAL. The following are the results of meteorological observations, taken by the aid of one of Messrs. Negretti &Zambra's minimum and maximum self- registering thermometers (Fahrenheit), exposed in the shade during the month of March at Rosario, from April to June at Montevideo, and from July to September at Buenos A^res: — Monthly range, . . Greatest diurnal range, Average do., do., Highest maximum, . . Lowest do.,.. Average do.,. . Highest minimum, Lowest do., Average do.. Mean averages, . . __. ■ 2 v« •r s^ ■ ^ ^ ^ ■•• « «• ►^ ^ -^ ■ V3 51 26 25 28 26 25 18 43 24 18 21 14 14 9 20 10 9 ■ 7 9 7 5 98 77 71 72 65 66 63 68 57 55 49 48 49 52 80 68 63 .59 54 58 58 77 67 61 62 50 61 59 47 51 46 44 39 41 45 64 58 54 51 44 51 53 72 63 59 55 49 54 56 ADVICE TO EMIGRA1NT3. 161 CHAP. XT. ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS. WHO TO COME, AKD WHO TO STAY AT HOME. The Eiver Plate offers a fine field for immigrants, as is proved by the thousands of Europeans here who have gained fortune and position during the last twenty years. Yet it sometimes happens that individuals come out to Buenos Ayres, throwing up a good livelihood, and being ignorant of the language and unwilling at first to trough it,)) grow disgusted and return to England sadder but not wiser men. " It is, therefore, absolutely necessary to bear in mind the classes of emigrants most needed in a new country : — 1st. Farm servants — unmarried men, of strong constitutions, sober, steady, accustomed to country life, and able to stand rain and sun. Their occupation here would be the care of sheep, and as our Hocks make up a total of sixty millions, doubling every four years, at least tAventy thousand of this class will find immediate employment at £20 per annum, being found in house, provisions, horses, &c. After two or three years, they usually get a flock of sheep with third profits, and ultimately become independent farmers. 2nd. Cooks and housemaids — unmarried women of good conduct and some experience in house-keeping, although ignorant of Spanish, are much in request. Five hundred would at once get situations in native or foreign families, at £25 to £35 per annum. They often get married to the above class of shecpfarmers. 3rd. Young married couples — when unencumbered with family, this class is in greater demand than any other, and always preferred, on the 162 ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS. ground of steadiness. The husband must act either as sheep-peon or gardener, and the wife as cook. If they hire on an estancia in Buenos Ayres their joint wages may be calculated at £45 per annum, but if they go to Banda Oriental, Entre-Rios, or the other Provinces, tliey will earn £80. 4th. Speculators — we want some wide-awake, practical men, possessing money and experience. We have no manufactures in the River Plate. We want a paper mill, a woollen manufactory, omnibuses to ply throujih the city, pleasure gardens, an English theatre, and fifty other enterprises which would handsomely pay the originators. The above are the classes actually wanted, but some others might possibly better themselves by coming hither. For instance, there is room for half- a-dozen English physicians in the 'camp' ; a few mechanics might get good w ages in the interior ; printers are always wanted in Buenos Ayres ; some sober coachmen may also come out, and a good teacher of music or languages will find plenty to do. It may be needful to specify the classes not wanted — 1st. Lawyers, land surveyors, newspaper reporters, and graduates of universities. The first two are debarred from practising, until they go through a course of studies in the universities of these countries and take out degrees here. This involves three years, and is not worth the trouble. Reporters, if even they knew Spanish, would get nothing to do, there being no meetings, law-trials, lectures, &c., to report. Graduates are proverbially useless, for a man may have Homer and Yirgil by heart, and be obliged to sell orauges for a living. 2nd. Clerks and shop assistants. Some of this class come out to seek their fortune and generally return. They are ignorant of Spanish, and therefore both helpless and useless : moreover the English houses bring out their own clerks, and look with distrust on strangers. , Half a dozen youths understanding Spanish and their business, might fall into a drapery or grocery, at £60 a year. As a class, however, they are not Av anted. 3rd. Unemployed gentlemen. If these men have sufficient money to buy a flock of siieep, it is likely they will get disgusted, and sell out at a loss. If they have not, they are out of element, not willing to Avork hard, and desiring some lucrative post which they would be unable to fill. 4th. Tradesmen with large families. Most handicrafts being exercised by French, Italian, or Spanish operatives, it is not likely an English tailor, bootmaker or carpenter would find wages so much better than at home, comparatively with the value of money in both countries, as to be worth STEAM LINES TO LA PLATA. 163- the change. If he has a few hundred pounds, to start for himself, he may possibly get on, but if he has a large family and no ready money, he will find himself much worse than at home. 5th. Fast young men. If there were a law prohil)iting the importation of this class, it would be a service to the country and to themselves. The • British Hospital and Policia can tell of many locked up for drunkenness^ and finally dying in adelirium tremens,)) for this climate cuts them off with extraordinary rapidity. We have now pointed out distinctly ihe classes which are sure to get on well ; and also those which must come here only to be sadly disappointed. If the immigrant has little self conceit, and a' good temper, he will find friends everywhere. If strictly sober and honest, he is sure to thrive. It is perfectly immaterial yyhether he be Catholic or Protestant. A good education is not virtually a disadvmtage. The climate is the finest on earth, and persons who come out young speedily accustom themselves. The distance from Europe is very great, and those yyho cast their fortunes here have little chance of seeing the Old World again, not one in a hundred ever returning. Still the country has so many advantages, and the people are in general so kind, that whomc sickness)) is hardly known. STEAM SERVICE TO THE RIVER PLATE. A feyy years ago there was but one line of steamers plying to Brazil and the Biver Plate, viz. : the Boyal Mail from Southampton. At present there are seven lines, viz.: the Southampton, Liverpool (2), London, Bordeaux,, Marseilles, and Neyv York steamboat services. 1 . The Boyal Mail Company despatch a steamer on the morning of the 9th of every month, from Southampton, or on the 10th if the previous day be Sunday. This line has been running over tyventy years : the vessels are large and commodious. Fares — 1st class, £35 and upwards: return tickets, available for tyvelve months, issued at a fare and a-half ; 2nd class^ £25, good accommodation ; but this class is not alloyved to mix with the first or go on the quarter-deck. Bed, bedding, plate, and utensils provided for both classes. A reduction of one-sixth is alloyved for families of foiu^- or more persons travelling first-class. The steamer calls at Lisbon, Gape- Verds, Bahia, and Pernambuco : at Rio Janeyro passengers for the Biver Plate are transhipped to the Arno. The voyage occupies thirty-one days to Montevideo, and thirty-two to Buenos Ayres. For regulations about luggage, &c., see the company's pamphlet, given gratis on application, either personally or by letter, to Captain Vincent, Superintendent, South- ampton ; OFj to J. M. Lloyd, Esq., 55 Moorgate Street, London, E.G. m2 r?64 ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS. "2,. The Meiisageries Imperiales, or French mail line from Bordeaux, «stablislied in 1861, also carry a monthly mail, leaving Bordeaux on the "^blh, and making the voyage in the same number of days as the ^Southampton line. At Bio Janeyro passengers are in like manner tran- shipped to the Aunis for the Biver Plate. Few Englishmen come by this ihie^ but if a person wishes to visit Paris «en passant)) he can reach Bordeaux from London in two days. The vessels call at Lisbon, Goree, IJahia, Pernambuco, and Bio Janeyro : they are not so large as the Boyal Miiil Steamers. First cabin, including wine, £50. Second cabin, £20. ^Iffice— Messrs. Fletcher & Co., Liverpool, and 3Iessrs. Home, 4 iMoorgate St., London. 13. The Liverpool and Biver Plate Mail Company despatch a steamer from Liverpool ou the 20th of each month, calling at Lisbon, Bahia, and Wki& Janeyro, and coming on to the Biver'Plate without any transhipment of ^^^aissengers : they usually make the passage in tAventy-eight days. The treatment and accommodation on board are excellent. The line Avas *»s£ablished in 1863, and in 1868 obtained a mail charter from the British Coverument. First cabin, £35. Second cabin, £25. Steerage, £16: She 1st and 2nd classes are found in everything ; steerage passengers get rations on the emigration dietary scale. Agents, Messrs. Lamport and Molt, 2 1 Water St. , and Messrs. Wright & Kelso, 7 Tower buildings, Water St., iiycrpool. Mr. Lloyd of the latter lirm is Argeutiiie Yice-Cousul, and will |s*ive any information required. The Company's steamers are the following : ll'jcho Brahe, 1858 tons; Hipparchus, 1840; Kepler, 1499; Galileo, 1525; :¥ewton, 1074; Ptolemy, 1115; Halley, 1347; Donati, 1182; Humboldt, 1316; Gassini, 836; Flamsteed, 1376; Copernicus, 1397; Saladin, 510; .Ironsides, 691 ; La Plata, 1393; La Place, 1194. Beduction for families. -Seturn- ticket, for twelve months, at a fare and a-half. i. The New York and Brazilian Mail Company despatch a monthly :rlt6amer from New York, which calls at St. Thomas's, Para, Pernambuco, *«M Bahia, arriving at Bio Janeyro in twenty-four days. The line was established in 1866, and has a subsidy from the American and Brazilian jGovernmeuts. It is proposed to have a branch line to the Biver Plate. First class from New Y'ork to Bio, £50. 'S. The London, Belgium, Brazil and Biver Plate Mail Company despatch a ^steamer from London, with English mails, which takes the Belgian mails at Ani werp , and receives passengers for South America at Falmouth on the 3rd of each month. The line was started by Messrs. Tait Brothers, of Limerick, in P. 857, and has some fine new steamers with superior accommodation. The City of Bio Janeyro has made one of the quickest passages to Brazil ou STEAM LliNES TO LA PLATA. 1€£» record : the other vessels are — the City of Limerick, City of Brussels, and City of Buenos Ayres. The departures are — from Loudon, 28th;; Antwerp, 1st; Falmouth, 3rd; arriving at Rio Jaueyro in about twentjr days, and proceeding to the River Plate without transhipping passengers.^ Fares, £35, £25, and £16, first and second classes found in every thii^ r the usual reduction for families ; return tickets at a fare and a-half» Agents — London, Managing owners, M^essrs. Tait & Co. ; Brokers, A.. Howden & Co. Antwerp, Consignee, B. de Vleeshouwer; Broker, E. I^ Isenbaert. Rio Janeyro, Consignee, Thomas Holicombe, Esq, ; Broker Montevideo, Consignees, Messrs. Zimmerman, Fair & Co. ;^ Broker, J. R- Schwartz. Buenos Ayres, Consignee, Messrs. Zimmerman, Fair & Co.- Brokers, Woodgate Brothers. 6. The Pacific iN'avigation Company despatch a steamer from Liverpool ce the 19th of every alternate month, for Valparaiso, calling at Rio Janeiro a^cK Montevideo ; the voyage to the River Plate is made in twenty-four days„ the vessels beiug constructed for great speed. The Company was established in 1868, and has a subsidy from the Chilian Government. 7. The Marseilles line, called «Societe de Transports Maritimes,* despatches a monthly steamer from Genoa, calling at Marseilles, Gibraltar^ Bahia and Rio Janeyro, and making the voyage to Montevideo in twenty- eight days. The vessels are large and well appointed, viz. : the Bourgogne.. Picardie, Poitou, etc., each 3.000 tons register. Fares: from Genoa. £5^^ £33, £i6--from Marseilles or Gibraltar, £48, £31, and £16. Agents m Buenos Ayres, Messrs. Bonnemason & Heydeckcr, Calle Bolivar. There are also sailing vessels, of about 300 tons register, always on tife berth at London or Liverpool, to receive cargo and passengers for Moi^e- video and Buenos Ayres. The passenger fare is usually £13,. tlic accommodation pretty good, and the voyage is made in about sixty days^ For particulars apply to Messrs. Nuttall, Mors &Co., Liverpool ; or to Messrs. Howden & Sons, 19 Birchin Lane, London. IN'o passport is required on landing in the River Plate, but if tBc; emigrant has no friends here, it would be well for him to bring a certificate of baptism or other document shewing his name and nationality. le. receiving letters at the Post-office, taking out a marriage license, receiving money from home, &:c. positive proof of identity is of course required, and as passage tickets are often lost, and letters of introduction only used for the moment, an official document is more valuable. Some persons procisre a letter from the Foreign Office to our diplomatic or consular represen- tatives, but it is hardly worth tlie trouble, and leads, at best, to aot invitation to dinner. 166 ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS. As to letters of introduction they are useful, and as many may be brought as choice may dictate. But let it not be supposed that they will always avail to procure a situation for the bearer. Merchants are often «bored» by a dozen such recommendations, on the arrival of the packet. Irish emigrants should invariably bring letters to the head of their countrymen here, Y. Rev. Canon Fahy. Packing up the trunk is a serious consideration : vfe advise the reader to provide himself with an abundant supply of clothing and comforts, not only for the voyage, but because they cost here tliree times their value in England, and may be introduced duty free. They must be bona-fide for personal use and marked with the owner's name, to avoid suspicion of smuggling. A box of kid gloves or roll of silk would be exposed to Custom- house seizure, but shirts and clothing (marked) incur no risk. A gun or revolver, saddle and equipments should not be omitted, and if not required afterwards may be sold at a profit ; but no more than one is permitted, and we caution passengers against the false idea of bringing out boots, fire- arms, &c., on speculation. A dozen linen suits will be found useful on board when near the tropics, and always come in well for summer wear here. LETTERS OF CREDIT. We should advise emigrants who intend bringing money with them, to jdo so by means of a Letter of Credit. This may easily be obtained through almost every Bank in England and Scotland, on the London and River Plate, or jMaua Banks of this city, and 3Iontevideo (B. Oriental). And in Ireland from any of the various branches of the National Bank of Ireland which also grants Letters of Credit on the above Banks. The agents in Buenos Ayres of thelNational Bank are Messrs. \Vauklyn & Co. The above Credits may be obtained for a trilling charge for commission, if the amount be under £500 ; and if over that sum, we believe free of any charge Avhatever. The party taking a Letter of Credit will always receive a duplicate, wiiich he should leave at home with his friends in case of his losing the original, or the ship being lost. This course we can with conlidence recommend to our friends as being the best and safest, and one that does not in any way involve the possibility of a loss, whilst by the old and foolish system of carrying gold about the person a man runs the risk of losing it, or being robbed, and if the ship is lost for a certainty loses his money also. Wliereas by the Letter of Clredit system even should the ship be lost, his friends at home have stil INSTRUCTIONS ON LANDING. 167 got the duplicate Letter of Credit, by which they can obtain the money deposited. INSTRUCTIONS ON LA7SDING. Passengers by the mail-steamers are usually landed in a little steamboat, but failing this it will be necessary to take a whaleboat (M'Lean's are the best), and be sure to bargain with the boatman before leaving the ship : his charge will depend on the weather, say §20 to §50 a head. On no account let any of your luggage be separated from you, or you may lose it. Reaching the mole you will be assailed by an impetuous gang of porters ; pick out one of them, count for him the number of your trunks, and let him get others to help him if he like : he will charge probably $5 or §10 a trunk to take them to your hotel. At the Resguardo, near the end of the mole, you will have to open your trunk for examination; if you do so with good grace you will find the officials most polite and anxious to save you any trouble. If you have cigars, silks, jewellery, or fire-arms, you had better declare the same. On arriving at your hotel if you have any difficulty with the porters about vour luggage, ask the landlord to settle Avith them. You will find the hotels very cheap and good, the charge for bed and board not exceeding eight shillings a day, unless you take a sitting room, which you will find very dear. Place your card with the number of your room in the frame at the stair's foot. Lock your room Avhenever you go out, leaving the key with the porter : lock it also at ni^ht. If any of your trunks have been detained at the Resguardo or sent to the Custom- house, lose no time to employ Mr. Hill, of 76 Calle Defensa, or some other respectable broker, to clear them for you : the cost will be trifling, unless duties be enforced, in which case they will amount to 23 per cent, on the value of the article. The change cf climate will necessarily oblige you to be careful as to your manner of living. Rise early, take "a cold bath every morning, beware of walking about much in the sun, and remember that there are frequent changes of temperature even in one day. Flannel singlets, light clothing and a straw hat are advisable in summer mouths. At all seasons the mornings are frequently cold, necessitating warm clothing. Be very careful of a cut finger or other trifling wound, which must be kept closely bandaged : it is sometimes very hard to heal a small cut, if the air get into it, and we have unfortunately many cases of lockjaw from a mere scratch not attended to. It is also very bad to drink much cold water, which acts as a purgative on strangers. The most wholesome drink at breakfast or dinner is French wine, for which no charge is made in the hotels. Brandy is too hot for the climate, and must only be taken with extreme moderation : 168 ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS. wdelirium tremens,)) from the intemperate use of spirits, results sooner in this than in any other country. The meat of the country is good and ■wholesome, except pork, .which you had better avoid, seeing the objectionable manner of rearing swine in Buenos Ayres. In the hotels the usual hour for breakfast is 9 a.m. and dinner 5 pm. As soon as convenient after arrival you may call at the Standard office, 74 Calle Belgrano, where the editors will gladly give you any information or advice in their power. Letters from home may also be directed to their care free of charge. Poor emigrants looking for employment can have advertisements inserted gratis. New arrivals should be careful about roaming through the streets after 11 P.M., although the city is more quiet and orderly than most large towns. Above all things beware of intoxication, and keep out of the Policia. In the coffee-houses, never make any offensive remarks about the country ; it would be ill-breeding, and many of those around you are sure to understand English. If you meet a religious procession either turn into the next street, or take off your hat and stand till it passes by. If anyone ask you for a light for his cigar, present yours to him politely. Remember always that politeness and equality are the rule of the country, and act up to it. rrrNERARY from ENGLAND. 1 69> CHAP. XYI. 1TL\ERARIES FROM ENGLAND AND NEW YORK. F.NGLAHD TO BUENOS ATRES. The voyage is usually made in thirty days, the distance being about 7,800 statute miles. The outset is often disagreeable, in crossing the Bay of Biscay, but the rest of the voyage is generally delightful, and rough ■weather is exceedingly rare between Lisbon and Rio Janeyro. Lisbon is reached in four days from England. The entrance to the Tagus is highly picturesque. Rounding the Rock of Lisbon, and crossing the bar, -we get a distant view of Belen, the hills around being covered with a multitude of windmills. On the right is seen a massive building, the Lazarretto ; on the left is Fort Julian, a relic of the Moorish epoch. Abreast of Belen we are hailed by the port officials, after which we are allowed to proceed. The panorama of the city becomes every moment more attractive : a crowd of steamers, war-vessels and shipping, line the quays. AS'e land at the Custom-house, in the Terreyro do Paoo, or Black- horse Square. The streets of the new town are handsome and spacious, w ith massive piles of building in regular blocks of about a hundred yards square ; the houses are six or seven stories high, and all built of stone. The three principal streets, Rua Aurea, Rua Augusta, and Rua da Prata, run parallel. This was the scene of the earthquake of 1755, when most of the old town, with 40,000 inhabitants, was destroyed. The 3Iarquis de Pombal rebuilt the city. He was Minister to King Jose L, whose equestrian statue gives name to the Plaza, and the effigy of the Minister is seen in a bronze medallion on the pedestal. The east and west sides of tiie Plaza are occupied by public departments. The south is bounded by the river, and on the north a triumphal arch gives access to the city. i/O ITINERARY FROM ENGLAjVD. Englishmen usually stop at the Hotel Braganza, which surmounts one of the seven hills, and is situated close to the Opera-house, in the aristocratic quarter : charge, eight shillings a day. The Rocio terminates the lower town built by Pombal and is flanked on two sides by the Dona Maria theatre and St. Domingo church. In the centre a monument is being erected to Don Pedro I., who abdicated the throne of Brazil to return to the mother country. In public monuments, plazas, fountains, &c., the city abounds. It may give some idea of Lisbon to say that it comprises 355 streets, 281 travessas or causeways, 12 plazas, 52 plazuelas, 5 public parks, 6 theatres, 200 churches, and 36 public fountains. It contains over 300,000 inhabitants, and enjoys a privileged clknate. The traveller should visit the Cathedral, the Abbey of Belen, the Paseo da Estrella, the aqueduct, and the Opera-house. In the coffee-houses may be had capital port-wine at two shillings a bottle. Tlie English book-store is in RuadoCarmo. English Vice-Consul, Jeremiah Meagher. Chaplain, Rev. T. K. Brown. Messrs. Knowles & Co, are agents for the Royal Mail Company, and Messrs. Tait's London line, and the Liverpool and River Plate Company, have also agencies. If the steamer delay more than one day the traveller should drive out to Cintra, 1 7 miles, one of the most charming spots in the universe. There is now railway communication from Lisbon to Paris, and some people come this way, to avoid the Bay of Biscay. The route is this — Paris to Bordeaux, 12 hours; Bordeaux to Madrid, 20 hours ; Madrid to Badajoz, 16 hours; Badajoz to Lisbon, 15 hours. Between 3Iadrid and Lisbon the traveller had better carry provisions. Four days from Lisbon we pass the Canary Islands, the Peak of Teneriffe rising to a height of 1 1 ,000 feet, and being visible at a great distance. Formerly the steamers called here ; but the over-zealous quarantine regu- lations caused the coaling-station to be transferred to San Vicente. The climate of the Canaries is most salubrious, and the scenery interesting: the islands belong to Spain, being governed by a Captain-General, and are sometimes used as a place of exile for turbulent politicians. The late Marshal O'Donnell was born here. The islands produce good wine and fruits : the inhabitants are whites. Lord Nelson fought one of his battles here. Teneriffe is a station on the Cadiz and Havana line of steamers. When the mail steamers called at Madeira, this Avas a very pleasant halt for passengers. The island is now sometimes sighted, and can be clearly seen at sixty miles distance : there are three peaks above the town of Funchal, which are of considerable elevation. the Cape Verde Islands are made in seven days from Lisbon. San Antonio is fertile and mountainous. «Bird Rock» is a conical piece of CAPE VERBS TO PERNAMBUCO. 171 granite, tenanted by sea-gulls ; and opposite to it is the wretched island of St. Vincent. This is certainly the most barren spot on the world's surface : sundry bold ranges of mountains, but not a particle of vegetation ; in its whole extent there is not a blade of grass, not a weed. Two palm-trees near the barrack, and two orange trees on the beach, are sustained in some miraculous manner. The port is spacious and secure ; on one side a small fort flying the Portuguese flag, overlooks the shipping ; on another, the summit of an adjacent mountain bears a striking resemblance to the head of Washington. Mr. Miller, the English Consul, has a cottage a little above the town, which is a straggling collection of about a hundred houses, built of stone, and a neat little church. There is an English cemetery up the hill-side, and on the beach is the grave of an English colonel's wife, Avho died returning from India. The water is so clear and blue that the natives will dive for a shilling,* and catch it before it reaches the bottom, the boatmen sell some pretty mats and inlaid work-boxes, which come from Madeira. There is also a good supply of fruit from the island cf San Antonio, whose rugged and lofty outline is seen a few miles Avestward. The garrison of the place consists of a company of Portuguese soldiers : the natives are all black, and occupy themselves in coaling the steamers. From St. Vincent to the Brazils the sea is always as smooth as a mill-pond, and the heat is of course intense, crossing the Line. You see myriads of flying-fish, and now and then a shark or a shoal of porpoises, or the tiny little nautilus w ith sail before the wind (sailors call it the Portuguese man- of-war). At night the sea is phosphorescent; the moon shines with peculiar brilliancy, and the constellation of the Southern Cross reminds us that we are in a new hemisphere. Passengers should beware of 'catching cold, and on no account sleep on deck. If they continue their usual morning bath they will find it very relaxing, the sea-water being actually warmet than the atmosphere. Fernando Noronha is sighted on the seventh day from St. Vincent. It is a small rocky island, used by the Brazilians as a penal settlement, and has a light -house. As we approach the coast of Brazil Ave see numbers of birds, and the first land visible is Cape San Roque, a bold headland, 200 miles north of Pernambuco. Pernambuco is the worst port in the world. The mail steamers lie out far to sea, and there is a nasty reef near the shore. When the weather is at all rough, passengers are lowered over the side in an arm chair. The boats are strong, buoyant, and well-manned, but there are sometimes sudden changes in the weather, especially about 1 p.m., which render it both difficult and dangerous for passengers to return aboard. Bathers had better 172 ITINERARY FROM ENGLAIND. look out, here, for sharks, which are very numerous. The city has about 100,000 inhabitants, including a few English, and does a great business with England and other countries, in coffee, cotton, &c. It is built on three or four islands, and a fine iron bridge was put up recently, to connect the chief business quarters. A pretty drive may be taken to Olinda : the cab fare is ten milreis (fifteen shillings) for two persons. Royal Mail Company agents, Messrs. Adamson, Howie &Co. British Consul, B. AV. Doyle. Vice-Consul, Alexander Gollan. Chaplain, Bev. Charles A. Austin. From Pernambuco to Bahia the voyage occupies thirty-six hours. The overland journey would take as many days, there being no road through the forests. The distance is under 500 miles. In these waters we meet a number of « catamarans,)) the strangest kind of craft ever seen; they sometimes venture over 100 miles from the shore. Bahia', or San Salvador, is the oldest city in Brazil, and next in importance after the metropolis. The bay is very fine, the vegetation luxuriant; the city stretches along a hill-side, with numerous churches and other massive buildings. The suburb called Victoria is the residence of the English merchants, embowered in gardens, and enjoying the fresh breeze from the Atlantic. On landing the traveller finds a host of palanquins ready to carry him up the hill, but these conveyances, which are borne by two negroes, look so greasy that some people prefer walking. The heat is so great that the best plan is to take a coacii and four mules. Drive first to the Botanical Gardens, whence a splendid view is obtained. Then see the old Jesuit cathedral, the Government-house, railway terminus, and post-office : if you have time to drive to the head of the bay, near the Portuguese hospital, it will repay the trouble. . More than three-fourths of the inhabitants are colored, and the city is so lilthy that foul odours assail one on all sides. There is an excellent coffee-house opposite the post- office. Mail Packet agents, Wilson, Hett & Go. British Consul, John Morgan. Chaplain, Bev. Charles G. Nicolay. There is an English cricket club here. Bahia boasts the largest oranges and the fattest black Avomen in South America. Rio Janeyro is about 800 miles from Bahia, and the voyage takes nearly three days. The entrance to the Bay of Rio is the grandest picture that ever delighted the eye of man, grand, solemn, and imposing. A chain of wild and dark-colored mountains forms the coast-line ; right a-head of us the land recedes, discovering, as we approach, two rocky islets, one of them crowned by a light-house. Presently Ave begin to descry houses perched here and there among the hills, while the peaks of Gabia, Tijuca, Corcovado, and the Sugar-loaf, frown upon us in over-awing majesty. CITY OF RIO JAZS'EYRO. 173 At every instant, as the steamer steadily advances into the bay, the scene changes like a kaleidoscope, the mountains seem to move one behind the other, and to change entirely in shape, till we get in fall view of the city, with the Organ Mountains in tlie back-ground, and the middle distance occupied by sundry islands bristling with batteries. The Sugar-loaf is perhaps the most striking feature in the picture, and rises to a height (almost precipitous) of 3,200 feet: an American lady some years ago climbed to the top. Gabia looks as if surrounded by a castellated building. The peak of Santa Cruz is on the right of the bay, overlooking a fort of granite walls mounting a hundred guns. We pass the British and French flagships, and several other war-vessels. All the navies in the world might ride at anchor in this land-locked bay. Small steamboats are plying in all directions, to the various suburbs along the water-line. The steamer comes to her moorings alongside Coal Island : the island was formerly used for rearing young slaves. The boatmen here are mostly thorough negroes. The landing place is close to the market, a bustling place, with a very incongruous assemblage. In coming ashore we notice the Arsenal, where some of the ironclads Avere built for the Paraguayan war. Rio Janeiro is wholly different from any other city : it has nothing South American about it, and nowise resembles the large towns you see in France or Italy. The houses are very high, the streets are as narrow as those of Genoa, and the shops very small, but rich. The vehicles are drawn by mules, and in some streets you have to step into a shop doorway when a coach passes. Black servants in livery abound. The Alfandagaor Custom-house is a fine building, The best hotel is «McDowell's Exchange Hotel)) : the same owner has a hotel at Petropolis, a charming place about forty miles up the country. The natives are very polite and understand a person talking Spanisli, although their language is Portuguese. The Plaza Constitucion is a very handsome square, witli fountains, and in the centre is a tasteful equestrian statue of Peter I., the founder of the Brazilian Monarchy. We are now in the new town; the streets are wide and well paved : the English Company, called the Bio Improvement Company, has. done good service here. The convict prison is surrounded with high walls of granite : a little further on we reach another Plaza, where the Lyric Theatre, the Senate-house, and other buildings claim notice. As we get to the outskirts we see the reservoir of the grand aqueduct of Tijuca. The pleasantest ' excursion from Bio is to Tijuca, which is situate in the mountains, about twelve miles inland. An omnibus leaves the San Francisco square every hour. iVumerous charming cottages, sprinkled here and there over a fertile zone of gardens and orange groves, 174 ITINERARY FROM ENGLAND. occupy the line of route as we ascend towards Tijuca. The omnibus stops at a place called Andrahy. Here you can hire a horse or coach to ascend the hill. The road winds round a succession of precipices disclosing at every point the most enchanting views : the gorge below is at times 500 feet perpendicular. There are several country-seats, where the owners reside in summer. The road is first-rate, and at short distances there are gas lamps. The English Hotel is in a hollow, although still at a great height ; the proprietor is Mr. Bennett. It would be difficult even in England to find anything to surpass the neatness, elegance, and comfort of this house. Mr. Bennett gets up pic-nic parties t^vice a week to all the finest points of scenery in this lovely neighbourhood. After seeing Tijuca you should next make a trip to Petropolis. The first part of the journey is made in steamboat, some fourteen miles across the bay ; the second is in the Baron Maua's railway, about sixteen miles, and the rest by. diligence. The ascent of the Sierra da Estrella, a branch of the Organ Mountains, is most picturesque. The road is a triumph of engineering skill, the mountain side being almost perpendicular. When you have ascended about a thousand feet you see the road winding zig-zag below you, every bend forming a terrace cut in the rock. There is no possibility of an accident, the road being lined, over the precipice, with a stone wall four feet high. Petropolis is at last reached after a half hour's drive over the table-land lying between two ridges. It is embosomed in the mountains, at a height of 2600 feet above the sea. The mountains rise all around like a barrier, the vegetation is as tall and luxuriant as at Tijuca. Petropolis is the summer residence of the Brazilian Court and aristocracy. The Emperor's palace is a fine massive pile of building, not unlike an Italian nobleman's villa. The great attraction in Rio is the Botanical Garden, with an avenue of palms that has no match in the Avorld. The drives around by Botafogo, Larangeiras, La Gloria, &c., are very beautiful, and omnibuses ply every hour from the square adjoining the Emperor's palace. In the shops of Bua Ouvidor will be found feather-flowers, beetles, jewellery, and such like articles. The English Consulate is in the Rua Direita, Consul Mr. George Lennon Hunt, who is also agent for the Royal Mail steamers. The. English Minister, Mr. Buckley Mathew, resides near Botafogo. The Exchange and Post-office are in the same street as the Consulate and M'Do well's hotel. From Rio to Montevideo takes four or five days, according to the weather. Pamperos are not uncommon on this coast. Ear out to sea, before seeing land, we can perceive the effect of the waters of the River Plate, changing the color of the ocean. Maldonado is situate at the mouth of the river, and ARRIVAL IN THE RIVER PLATE. 175 the* navigation is here very dangerous, owing to the bad arrangement of lights. A profitable seal fishery is carried on at Lobos Island. The coast of the Banda Oriental is low and uninteresting till we sight the «raount)> which has given its name to Montevideo. Montevideo is the capital of the Republic of Uruguay, with a population of 70,000 souls. The city, as seen from the bay, looks to advantage, the towers of the Matriz Church, and the Custom-house and Caridad Hospital being conspicuous. The best hotels are the Oriental and Americano, charge. 95. per day. Strangers are admitted to the Club : they will find the Dailij Stayidarcl at the ageucy, Mr. G. Behrens, 103 Calle Zavala. Fully three-fourths of the inhabitants are foreigners, including a number of English and German merchants. There are numerous fine buildings, especially the Bolsa, where the merchants meet at two p.m., every day. The Biver Plate Telegraph Co.'s office is in the same building. There are drives to the Paso Molina, Buschenthal's quinta, and atramway to Union. The Bev. Mr. Adams reads Divine service at eleven o'clock on Sundays, at the English Church. The British Hospital is a small building near the fort. The Government-house is in Calle Bincon. Major Munro is British Vicc- Consul. Mail-packet agent, Mr. Charles, 50 Calle Castellanos ; Tait's line, Mr. Schwartz, 103 Calle Misiones; Liverpool steamers, Mr. Charles Home, 213 Calle Cerrito. The steamers leave Montevideo in the evening and arrive at the outer roads of Buenos Ayres by daybreak. The minarets, church towers, and cupolas give a light and fantastic appearance to the city, which, seated some eighty feet above the western shore of the La Plata, extends about two miles along the v^ater's edge and forms an irregular quadrangle of 500 cuadras, or 2,000 acres, area. On near approach, the various public buildings can be clearly discerned, rising from the crowd of minor edifices. In the centre of the picture is the Custom-house, with a wharf stretching some 600 yards into the river. On the right are seen — the belfry of La Merced, the Capitania del Puerto with a flagstaff, the fine edifices of Don Felipe Llavallol and Don Juan Anchorena, and at the extremity of the line of beach the gas-house, close to whicli are the terminus of the Northern Railway and a battery of four guns, d fleur d^eau, used for salutes. In the back ground of the centre we see the clock-tower of the Cabildo, the roof' of Colon Theatre, and the porcelain cupola of the Cathedral ; while further to the left rise the towers of San Francisco and Santo Domingo, and on a slight eminence stands San Telmo. The view is bounded by a low strip of coast edged with luxuriant vegetation ; in the midst of which the Riachuelo stream debouches into the Plata. 176 ITINERARY FROM IVEW YORK. KEW YORK TO BUENOS AYRES. * The mail steamer leaves New York on the — th of each month for the Brazils, calling at St. Thomas. From New York to St. Thomas is about 1,600 miles English, and the voyage usually takes six days. St. Thomas is one of the Virgin Islands, recently sold by Denmark to the United States, and situate thirty-eight miles east of Porto Rico. Area, 24 square miles ; population, 12,560. The surface is elevated and rough, highest in the centre. It was formerly well wooded ; but the cutting of the timber has subjected it to frequent and severe droughts. The soil is sandy and not very fertile: about 2,500 acres are under cultivation, the principal crops being cotton and sugar. St. Tliomas is open to the com- merce of all nations : it is a depot of goods for the adjacent islands, and is becoming an important packet station. It is visited by 3,000 vessels annually. Capital, Charlotte Anielie. From St. Thomas's to Para (Brazil) the distance is nearly 1800 miles. The town of Para, or Belem, is situated on the river Guama, which flows into the estuary of Para, about 70 miles from the Atlantic, in lat. 1 .34 S., and long. 4«.50 W. : population 28,000, including 4,000 slaves. The climate is hot, being almost under the equator, but not unhealthy. The streets are well laid out and paved. The houses are not generally high, but they are substantially and often elegantly built. The to*vn boasts a handsome cathedral and several churches, a governor's palace, a college, schools, hospitals, a botanic garden, a theatre, and a law-court. The anchorage is safe and roomy, and with the exception of two shoals at the entrance of the river, is easy of access. The approach to the town is commanded by a small fort. The principal exports consist of cocoa, india-rubber, rice, nuts, and hides. In 1856, 5,000, OOOfl of India-rubber Avere exported. The total value of exports during the year 1858-59, Avas §1,950,048, of which no less that 42 per cent. Avas shipped to the United States. The imports from the United States for the same year were valued at §542,379, and consisted of manufactured articles, lumber, flour, &c. Cape San Roque is distant a thousand miles from Para. After doubling this cape, we have yet 200 miles before reaching Pernambuco, and from this last port the rest of the voyage is the same as the route from England to Buenos Ayres. The total distance "from New York to Rio Janeyro is nearly 6,000 miles. At Rio, the passengers wait for the French or English mail-steamers, to proceed to the River Plate ; but, it is likely the Americaa Company will soon establish a branch-line to Montevideo. CUSTOMS LAW. 177 01)-.iV-fiV CHAP. XYII. MISCELLANEOUS. CUSTOMS LAW FOR 1869. Imports by Water. Art. 1. The following are duty-free: — gold and silver coined or in bullion, books, printing-paper, plants of all kinds, fresh fruits, ice, firewood, charcoal, cattle for breeding, maize and maize flour (introduced by land), prepared tobacco for curing scab in sheep. 2. The Executive may exempt from duties the following: — seeds for agriculture, articles for Divine worship (at the order of the clerical authorities,) scientific instruments, machinery for steamboats, machinery for mining or new industries, furniture and utensils for immigrants and other things exclusively for their establishment. 3. The following shall pay \(i ^qv cent, ad valorem: — salt, silks, unset precious stones, gold and silver wrought, either with or without precious stones, all articles mounted in gold or silver, when such mounting increases their value by one-third. 4. All ai'ticles not above excepted shall pay 18 per cent, ad valorem. 5. The leakage allowed on wines, aguardiente, liquors, beer in wood, and vinegar, shall be calculated according to the poi^t whence the vessel brings her cargo, and only in the first Argentine port she enters, viz., 10 percent, for vessels from beyond the Line, six per cent, for this side of the Line, and three per cent, within the Capes (at the. mouth of the River Plate). 178 CUSTOMS LAW. Exports hy Land and Water. 6. Horse and cow hides of every kind, mule and sheep skins, and skins^ in general, hide-cuttings, jerked and salted meat, salt tongues, ostrich feathers, bones, bone-ash, horns and horn-tips, horse-hair, wool washed or unwashed, animal oil, grease and tallow raw or rendered, shall pay six per cent, ad valorem. 7 . Every other article of produce or manufacture, as also gold and silver coined or in bullion, shall be Jadraitted duty-free. Calculation of Dntles. 8. The duties shall be arranged by «Vistas» and calculated in imported articles on their value in deposit, and in exports on their market value at date of shipment ; always excepting such' articles as may be previously classified and valued in the Valuation Tariff, based on the same principle. The valuation on -washed wool shall be no greater than what the tariff stipulates lor unwashed. 9. The Executive shall fix the valuation of the articles to be included in said Tariff. 10. Export duties shall be paid at the first port of shipment, being articles cleared direct for foreign parts ; and cannot be transported by "water from one point to another of the Republic without having first paid the duties or given the usual security. For such duties, approved bills, to the satisfaction of the Customs' authorities, shall be given on stamped paper, at four months. General Jiegiilations. 11. Duties may be paid, at any of the Custom-houses of the Republic, in any of the moneys declared legal tender by law of Oct. 26th 1863, or in the paper-money of Buenos Ayres, or in Bolivian silver at its current value, or in Provincial Bank certificates for specie deposits. The copper currency shall only be received in the proportion of 3 per cent, on the amount payable ; and no vouchers or documents shall be received in payment of duties. 12. Goods that have paid import duties in any Custom-house of the Republic may pass free throughout its territory; but land-transit is forbidden to those that have not paid duties, except in the case of goods passing from Concordia, through Tederacion and Restauracion, to the Brazilian ports on the Uruguay, or vice versa; also excepting goods in transit from Paraguay, passing through Federacion or Restauracion, for Brazil or the Republic of Uruguay. J / STAMP LAW 179 13. This law shall hold from January 1st 1869 to December 31st of same year. Given at Congress, in Buenos Ayres, this 22nd day of September, 1868. AivGEL Elias, Maria?* o Acosta. Let the above be fulfilled and registered. MITRE. Cristobal Aguirre. Ed. Nofe.—^'e understand that salt for the saladeros has been recently declared duty-free. :^ATrO>AL STAMPED PAPER (1869), 1st. T^ie stamped pa[>er to be used in tribunals of the nation shall be as follows : - Amount. $25 and under all public departments and Above Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do., ito. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. U)0 do. 300 do. 500 do. 800 do. 1,000 do. 1,500 do. 2,000 do. o,-oo do. 3,000 do. 3,500 do. 4,000 do. 4,500 do. 5,000 do. 5,500 do. 7,500 do. 10,000 do. 12,500 do. 15,000 do. 20,000 do. 25,000 do. and from §30,000 upwards the stamp shall be ninety days. $100 300 500 800 1,000 1,500 2,000 2,500 3,000 3,500 4,000 4,500 5,000 5,500 7,500 10,000 -12,500 15,000 20,000 25,000 30,000 For 90 Days. 12c. .SO 25 50 75 1 I 2 2 3 3 4 4 5 5 7 10 20 25 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 12 50 15 Over 90 Days. SO Oc. 3 4 4 6 6 / 7 10 15 18 22 30 37 43 75 50 75 7.") 50 75 75 75 50 1 per mil extra under or over >-2 180 ' \ STAMP LA.W. 2. All obligations subject to national jurisdiction shall be on stamped paper as above. 3. Contracts between masters and sailors of mercliant ships shall have a stamp of 12 cents. 4. Each leaf of a petition to the National Government, Tribunals or offices, and all copies of documents produced in court, a stamp of 25 cents. Guides, permits, or policies for shipment of goods, and protocols by Escribanos, 25 cents. The first leaf of oue of the discharge manifests of coasting crafts under 50 tons, as well as permits for loading or unloading, 25 cents. Petitions of soldiers for pay or pensions may be presented in common paper. 5. The discharge manifest of vessels over 50 and under 100 tons, and permits for loading and unloading, 50 cents. Copies of documents from the archives, 50 cents. 6. The discharge manifest of vessels over 100 tons, and permits for loading or unloading, 75 cents. 7. Manifests of steam packets, ^1. ' 8. Navigation license for coasting craft under 50 tons, $2A. Discharge manifests, and petition to load or unload, for sea-going vessels under 50 tons, $2^. 9. Coasting craft over'50tons shall pay $.3 for license, and sea-going vessels the same for each leaf of the manifest of their cargo cleared for foreign ports. 10. Sea-going vessels uuder 50 and over 100 toue «hall pal Ct for their discharge manifest, and for petitions to load or unload. 11. Vessels over 100 tons shall pay $ 1 for discharge manifest, or for petitions to load or unload. Pilots' licenses, $10 each. ' 12. Concessions of land or of any privilege except for Patents af Invention, shall pay §25. 13. Navigation license for Argentine sea-going vessels, $50. 14. The stamp shall be paid bv the party presenting the document or originating the proceedings. , 15. The Judges or authorities may admit unstamped paper, w.itu inc obligation on the parties to put on the proper stamps afterwards. 16. If any party make out or present a document in unstamped paper he shall pay a fine of ten times the proper amount of stamp. If the stamp be of insulficient value he shall pay the same fine, less the va uc ot tie stamp. Notaries or others concerned in such omission shall pav lue sauie fine. PRESIDExNT mitre's ADMI?JISTRATION. ISl 17. Any public employee before whom a petitioa is presented insutB- ciently stamped, shall write on it «no correspondo) The petition shall not be admitted till the fine be paid. 18. When any doubt arises as to the necessary amount of stamp, the authorities shall decide either verbally, or in writing by the Fiscal, from which there shall be no appeal. 19. Any document may be stamped within thirty days in Buenos Ayres ; or if in the Provinces w ithin sixty days, with date noted by the nearest receiver of revenue. 20. Tickets of contracts to be afterwards formally draw n up, may be made on unstamped paper. 21. In the first three months of the year any unused stamp of the previous year may be exchanged. 22. Unused stamp paper of tlie current year may be exchanged on payment of 3 cents per stamp. 23. In all the month of January the stamps of the previous year may be used in any kind of petition. 24. In contracts of monthly payment for a given term the stamp shall be for one-half the total amount of such payments till the end. 25. This law shall hold from 1st January, 1869. ADMIISISTRATION OF PRESIDE^JT MITRE. 1862. April 12 — General Mitre assumes the National Executive, and dismisses the diplomatic agents appointed by the Parand Government. May 16 — Contract and regulations for mail-coach service. May 25 — Congress inaugurated at Buenos Ayrcs. June 12 — Decree of election for President and Vice-President. July 10 — Proclamation to tke people of Corrientes. August 10 — Minister of War sent as National Commissioner to Corrientes. August 12 — Corrientes declared in state of siege. August 16 — Intervention ordered in Catamarca. August 19 — Custom-house law for 1862. Foreign coins admitted as a legal tender. September 5 — Executive authorized to make a railway to Cordova. September 27— Contract with D. EstebanRams for navigating the Salado. September 29 — General census of the Republic ordered. 182 ' PRESIDENT mitre's ADMINISTRATION. October 3 — Various provincial departments made national. October 4 — Congress prolongs its sessions. October 7 — General Mitre and Don Marcos Paz elected President and Vice-President. October 8 — City of Buenos Ay res made temporary capital. October 13— Dr. Rawson, Minister of Interior; Dr. Elizalde, Foreign Affairs ; Dr. Velez Sarsfield, Finance ; Dr. Costa, Instruction ; General Gelly-Obes, AVar and Marine. October 17 — Project to navigate the Rio Vermejo. October 18 — Federal Court established: — Drs. Alsina, Carreras, Carril, Delgado, Barros Pazos, and Pico. October 24 — Appointment of Consuls-general abroad. November 1 — Consolidation of the Parana floating debt. November 14 — Congress closes sessions. November 19 — Decree on intervention of Consuls in case of foreigners dying intestate. November 29— Extradition of a Brazilian subject refused. December 3 1 — Officers of the Independence placed on the army roll. 1863. January 1 5 — Each of the Provinces, except Buenos Ayres, to receive a subsidy of ^12,000 per annum. January 24 — Arrangement of extra-duties with Maud & Co. January 31 — Committee named to examine coupons of foreign debt- February 18 — Mr. Bliss sent to explore the Chaco. March 14 — National college of Buenos Ayres established. aiarch 19^Contract with Wheelwright for Cordoba Railway. April 7 — Distribution of funds for Mendoza sufferers. May 5 — Congress re-opens. May 18 — Balcarce named envoy to France, England, Spain, and Italy. May 23^ — Wheelwright's concession ratified. July 20 — Hopkin's project for canalising the Capitan. August 26 — Amortization of Corrientes paper money. September 7 — Executive authorised to spend £100,000 sterling in building a neAv Custom-house. September 10 — Decimal system adopted. October 10 — Congress sessions prolonged. October 16 — Projects of telegraph wires to Rosario, and to introduce traction engines. October 17 — Roads and Bridges Stock authorised. PRESIDENT mitre's ADMINISTRATION. 183 October 20 — Expenses paid to British Admiralty for sounding the rivers. November 6 — Treaty with Spain ratified. November 13 — Payment ordered of expenses incurred in the campaign against Rosas. November 16 — Public Credit Office established. November 18 — Congress session closed. December 7 — Marmol sent envoy to Brazil. 1864. January 21 — Sourdeaux^s jcontract for Artesian wells. February 29— Dr. Gonsalez succeeds Dr. Sarsfield as Finance Minister. May 12 — Congress re-opens. June 10 — Protocol ratified to pay Brazil ^7 14,000s. June 1 5 — Executive authorised fo subscribe £40,000 to Cordoba Railway. June 20 — Rosario Immigration Committee established. July 29 — Contract for navigating the Upper Uruguay. September 5 — Privilege to 3Ir. Perkins for paper mill and powder factory. September 24 — Project of telegraph frooi Buenos Ayres to Montevideo. October 1 — Vote of §5, 000 for introduction of useful seeds. October 3 — Road projected through the Gran Chaco. October 8 — Emission of $5,000,000 in Bonds to amortise emissions of 1859 and 1861. October 11 — Patent Office established. October 1 1 — Concession of Eastern Argentine Railway. December 9 — National Colleges established in Catamarca, Salta, Tucuman San Juan, and Mendoza. 1865. January 2 — Construction of refuge huts in the Andes. January 27 — Harrison & Mansilla's contract for six lines of steamers. February 8 — Vote of §300 to buy useful books. March 18— Intervention in Cordoba ; Dr. Rawson sent as commissioner. April 16 — War breaks out with Paraguay; Republic in state of siege. April 17 — ^Paraguayan ports declared in blockade. April 18 — Paraguayan properties confiscated, and Seilor Egusquiza arrested. May 1 — Congress re-opens. May 8 — Horses declared an article of war. *• . May 9 — Declaration of w ar against Paraguay. 184 PRESIDENT mitre's ADMINISTRATION. May 26 — Treaty of Alliance "vyith Brazil and Montevideo ratified. May 27— Loan of $12,000,000 voted. June 2 — Three days mourning for death of Lincoln. June 5 — Vote to raise an army of 28,000 men. June 5 — Kiestra sent to London to negotiate loan. June 6 — Supplemental vote of $8,000,000 for war expenses. June 10 — General Mitre takes the field, and Vice-President Paz assumes power. July 7 — Hopkins' concession prolonged. July 10 — Rams' concession prolonged three years. August 16 — Extradition Treaty with Banda Oriental. August 18 — Vote of $20,000 for steam communication with New York. August 19 — Medals to the officers and men who fought at Corrientes. August 23 — Committee named to send articles to Paris Exhibition. August 28— Subsidy for distressed Correntino families. September 22 — Extradition Treaty with Bolivia. October 2 — Vote of $ 1 5,000 for expenses of Paris Exhibition. October 7— Vote of $ 1 5,000 for the Gualeguay Railway. October 12 — Treaty of amity and commerce with Bolivia. 1866. January 23 — Torrent sent envoy to Brazil. May 6 — Congress re-opens. May 12— Subsidy of $4,000 to Rioja. June 15 — ^Commissioner sent to report on Welsh Colony. June 22 — Tucuman paper money redeemed. June 28 — Treaty w ith Portugal of 1 852 denounced. July 7 — Seizure of 5,000 horses and 1 ,500 mules. July 10 — Subvention of $4,000 a month to San Luis. September 1 — Extra war credit of $4,000,000 in Treasury notes. September 24 — Telegraph project from Buenos Ayres to Chile. September 28 — Vote of a medal to all officers and soldiers in Paraguay. October 2 — Invalid soldiers to be sent home gratis. October 3 — Various provincial debts of Buenos Ayres assumed by the nation. October 4 — New credit for war expenses. Intervention in Catamarca. October S^English debt of Buenos Ayres assumed by the nation. October 20— Construction of a bridge over the Rio Tercero. / October 22 — 3Iunicipality of Buenos Ayres restored to Provincial juris- diction. PRESIDEIVT murk's ADMINISTRATION. 185 November 9 — Arrangement ^vith Provincial Bank for 4,000,000 treasury notes. iVovember 15 — Minister of War sent to look after the frontier, November 21 — Pannero's intervention in Mendoza. November 28 — Contract with Aguirre and Murga for steam-service to Patagones for three years. December 1 1 — Contract for telegraph to Chile. 1867. January 10 — Buenos Ayres paper-money received for duties at 25 per. January 13 — Arrangements of Paraguayan ports now occupied. January 26- — Minister of War sent against Mendoza rebels. February 13 — Wharfage dues at the Tigre established. March 7 — Subvention to the Welsh colony. March 22 — Project of telegraph to Rosario. April 13— Grant of S8,000 to cholera sufferers. April 22 — Ecclesiastical tribunals organized. May 3 — Fiscal appointed to prosecute Cordoba rebels. May 14 — Projected highway from Cordoba to San Juan. June 2 — Congress re-opens. July 19 — Suspension of all furloughs to officers. August 2 — A sum of $20,000 distributed among the provinces. August 20 — General Conesa sent to put down the Cordoba rebels. August 29 — Re-building Government-house after the fire. September 6 — Drs. Ugarte and Uriburu succeed Ministers Elizalde and Costa. September 12 — Congress authorizes another subscription of 15,000 shares to the Central Argentine Railway. September 18^ — Vote of ^18,000 to the destitute families in Rioja. October 3— Emission of §600,000 in Bonds. October 14— Credit of $2,000,000 with Provincial Bank. November 15 — Plans ordered of a projected railway from Villa Nueva to Rio Cuarto. November 18 — 3Iinister of War sent with an army to the Interior. November 27 — Council of War ordered on General Arredondo. November 30 — Intervention in Rioja ; La Fuente special commissioner. December 21 — New regulations about payment of export duties. December 25 — Intervention in Santa Fe ; Dr. Pico special commissioner. 1868. January 2— Death of Vice-President Paz. The Ministers assume power. ^86 PRESIDENT mitre's ADMINISTRATION. January 23 — Funeral honors to General Asboth, United States Minister. Januarj^ 25 — Resignation of Ministers Ugarte, Uriburu, Rawson, and Gonzalez. Appointment of Sarmiento (who refuses), Elizalde, Costa, Aguirre, and Pauuero, as the new Cabinet. January 30 — Funeral honors to Vice-President Paz. January 31 — Minister Costa's intervention in Santa Fe. February 19 — Elections ordered for new President and Vice. February 20 — State of Siege throughout the Republic suspended. March 4 — Sum' of ^1500 sent to cholera sufferers in Cataraarca. March 10 — Subsidy of §150,000 distributed among the thirteen upper Provinces. March 28 — Continued subsidy to Welsh colony. April 2 — Sum of $1500 sent to cholera sufferers in San Juan. May 18 — Congress re-opens. June 3 — Congress reA'okes the state of siege. June 13 — Congress calls for protocol of Triple Alliance treaty. June 18 — Intervention by General Emilio Mitre in Corrientes. August 4 — General Caceres summoned to a Council of War. August 16 — D.Domingo Sarmiento declared President, and D. Adolfo Alsina Vice-President of the Republic. August 24 — Arrangement about Spanish claims. August 28 — Italian treaty of 1856 prolonged for a year. September 7 — Congress offers a premium for best system of curing beef. September 18 — ^Proposed law to remove the capital to Rosario — vetoed. September 23 — Treaty with Relgium for navigation of the Scheld. September 23— Vote of $30,000 to Dr. Tejedor for his Penal Code. September 26 — Yote of $1,1 1 1,000 in bonds, to pay Spanish claims. September 26 — Another vote of $1,430,000 for other Spanish claims. September 30 — Census of the Republic ordered. October 2 — Export duty taken off copper. October 8— Vote of $2,000,000 for the war. October 10 — Cession of an island at Cape Horn to Mr. Picdrabuena, October 10 — Salaries of President, Vice-President, and Ministers increased. October 10 — Subscription of $25,00,0 to Mr. Hopkins' project of the Capitan. October 10 — National Guard of Corrientes called out. October 10— Vote of $30,000 to Martin de Moussy. October 1 2 — General Mitre transfers the insignia of office to the new President, D. Domingo Faustino Sarmiento. GOVERrCMEJfT AIND COiNGRESS. 187 THE NATIONAL GOVER^iMEIHT. President — Don Domingo Faustino Sarmiento. Vice-President — Dr. Adolfo Alsina. Minister of Interior — Dr. Velez Sarsfield. Minister of Foreign Affairs — Dr. Mariano Varela. Minister of Finance — Dr. Benjamin Gorostiaga. Minister of Instruction — Dr. rs'icolas Avellaneda. Minister of War and Marine — Colonel 3Iartin Gainaa. Congress. Chamber of Senators. President — Dr. Adolfo Alsina. Buenos Ayres — Dr. Valentine Alsina, Don Felix Frias. Entre Rios — Dr. Benjamin Victorica, Don Anjel Elias. Corrientes— Dr. J. R. Vidal, Don W. Colodrero. Santa Fe — Dr. Joaquin Grauel, Don Nicasio Oroilo. Cordoba — Don Jose A. San Roman, Don Martin Piilero. Santiago — Don Absalon Ibarra, Don J. F. Borjes. Tucuman — Don Uladislao Frias, Don Salustiano Zavalia. Salta — Dr. Pedro Uriburu, Don Anselmo Rojo. Jujuy — Don Placido S. Bustamante, Dr. Daniel Araoz. . Catamarca — ^Dr. Anjel Navarro, Don Jose L. Lobo, Rioja — Don Guillermo Davila, Dr. Abel Bazan. San Juan — Don Tadeo Rojo.* (One vacant). Mendoza — ^Don Eusebio Blanco, Don Federico Corbalan. San Luis — Don Mauricio Darac, Don Juan Llerena. Chamber of Deputies. Buenos Ayres — Dr. Mariano Acosta, Dr. Carlos Tejedor, Dr. 3Ianuel Quintana, Dr. Manuel A. Montes de Oca, Dr. Pastor Obligado, Dr. Carlos Keen, Dr. Manuel Arauz, Don Mateo Martinez, Don Jose Marmol, General Conesa. (Two vacant). Santa Fe — Dr. Marcelino Freire, Don Pedro Lasaga. Santiago — Don Pedro Gallo, Don Luis Frias, Don Amancio Gonsalez Durand, Don Luciano Gorostiaga. San Luis — Don Juan A. Barbeito, Don Jose Veloz Rua. Tucuman — Dr. Anjel C. Padilla, Don Anjel 3Iendez, Don Nabor Cordoba. Mendoza — Don Francisco Civit, Don Aristides Villanueva. 188 FEDERAL COURTS. San Juan — Dr. Amaro Cuenca, Don Isiclro Qiiiroga. Entrp Rios — Dr. Eusebio Ocarapos, Dr. Vicente X. Montero. JujuY— Dr. Pablo Carrillo, Don T^ufuio Valle. Catamarca— Dr. Adolfo Cano, Don Jose del Pino, Don Victoriano Tolosa. Cordoba — Dr. Luis Velez, Dr. Benjamin Igarzabal, Dr. Niceforo Gastellano, Don Santiago Caceres, Don Augusto Lopez, Don Marcelino Gacitua. Salta— Dr. Joaquin Diaz de Bedoya, Dr. Cleto Aguirre, Dr. Francisco J. Ortiz. Rioja — Two deputies.. No election. Corrientes — Four deputies. No election. Supreme Federal Court. Dr. Francisco de las Carreras, President; Dr. Salvador M. del Carril, Dr. Francisco Delgado, Dr. Jose Barros Pazos, Dr. Benito Carrasco. Procurator- General, Dr. Francisco Pico. Federal Sectional Judges. Buenos Ayres — Dr. Manuel Zavaleta, Dr. Carlos Eguia. Entre Rios — Dr. Leouidas Echague. Corrientes — Dr. Jose M. Guastaviuo. * iiou-^ Santa Fe — Dr. Jose M. Zaviria. ' ' ^ Cordoba — Dr. Saturnino Laspiur. Santiago — Dr. Prospero Garcia. Tucuman — Dr. Agustin de la Vega. Salta — Dr. Apolonio Ormaechea. Catamarca — Dr. Joaquin Quiroga. Jujuy — Dr. Macedonio Gras. Bioja — Dr. Artemio Granillo. San Juan — Dr. Jose B. de la Vega. Mendoza — Dr. Franklin Villanueva. San Luis — Dr. Pablo Saravia. Hierarchy. His Grace Dr. Mariano Jose de Escalada, Archbishop of Buenos Ayres. Most Rev. Dr. A'^icente R. Arellano, Bishop of Cordoba. Most Rev. Fray Wenceslao Achaval, Bishop of Cuyo. Most Rev. Fray B. Rizo Patron, Bishop of Salta. Most Rev. Dr. Jose Maria Gelabert, Bishop of Parana. NATIONAL BUDGET. 189 BUDGET FOR 18 6 9. Home Department. President's bureau, §38,7-20 Minister of Interior, 20,280 Congress and Public Credit, 315,400 Post-office, 113,049 Immigration oflices, 26,000 Contracts, .... 92,720 Official bulletin, 6,000 Public Works, 16,000 Roads and Bridges, 160,000 Post houses, 30,000 Pensions, 3,384 Miscellaneous, .... .... 20,000 Department of National Statistics, 4,804 Industrial patents, 6,632 Subsidies to the provinces, 210,000 Foreign Affairs. Minister's bureau, $20,764 Legations, .... 81,570 Worship and Public Instrvction. Minister's bureau, $15,720 J'ederal Courts, .... 103,272 Printing, .... .... 12,000 Fiscal fees, .... .... 12,000 3Iiscellaneous (Justice), .... 2,000 Legal Codes, .... 6,160 ISishoprics, . . . , .... 109,604 Church subsidies, .... 30,000 ^'i'scellaneous (Worship), 4,500 Univo.rsity and Colleges, 262,839 SubsidWz for education, 100,000 Inspection wi Colleges, 4,000 Primary instruc-aon im^ioja, 15,000 Books, 60,000 3Iiscellaneous (Instrc^tion), . . 8,000 $1,062,989 $102,334 §745,095 190 NATIONAL BUDGET. Finance Department. Minister's bureau, $19,032 Treasury aud Comptroller's office, GO, GOO Custom-house, 6i7,058 Stamp office. 6,G78 Fiscal buildings, 30,000 Pensions, 9,884 National Credit, .50,000 Miscellaneous, 20,000 War and Marine. Minister's bureau. $28,584 Inspector's office. 37,.536 Staff officers, 356,220 Artillery, 79,122 Infantry, 281,448 Cavalry, .... 394,746 National Guards, 184,620 Marine, 193,780 Army administration 1,H3,623 Pensions, .... 212,040 Independence heroes 5, 20,000 Indiaa subsidies, ... .... 212,906 I»ations for the Navy 46,197 Extras and arrears o fpay, .... 173,568 Miscellaneous, 80,000 $843,252 $3,444,390 Pvhlic Debt. Emission of Jan. 1862, $2,000,000, 9 per cent, interest, $1 80,000 Amortisation of same, 3 per cent., 60,000 Emission of June 1861, $960,000, 6 per cents., .... .... 44,388 Amortisation at 1 per cent., 28,800 Emission of' May 1859, $800,000, 6 per cents., 48,000 Amortisation at 1 per cent., 8,00<* Brazilian debt, October 1 8G8, 1 36.^^63 Coupons on Foreign Debt, ... ' ^"lOOO English coupons, alter dale. • • • • 10,000 WATS Al^D MEANS. 191 Emission of Oct. 1860, $3,000,000, 6 per ceuts., .... .... Amortisation at 2^ per cent., .... Emissions of Nov. 18G3 and Oct. I86i, §12,000,000, at 6 percent., Amortisation at 1 per cent., .... Emission of Oct. 1867, §600,000, at 6 per cent., .... Amortisation at 1 per cent., ..... Emissions of Sept. and Oct. 1868, $2,500,000, 6 per cent., Amortisation at 1 per cent., .... English loan of 1824, 5 per cents.. Amortisation, .... Deferred 3 per cents., ... Amortisation at ^ per cent., .... English loan of 1866, £2,500,000, 6 per cents., .... $169,112 70,588 677,648 112,941 33,882 5,6 i7 143,492 23,915 519,522 1,041,240 Total expenditure, $9,622,098 WAYS AND MEANS. Imports, estimate for 1869, Exports, .... .... Bonded stores, .... Stamped paper, Post-office, .... Patents of invention, Port fees, .... .... Miscellaneous, .... $3,424,038 2,250,000 300,000 160,000 88,000 .... 1 ,300 1,100 .... 49,600 $10,950,000 Estimated surplus, .... .... COMPARATIVE TABLE OF REVENUE. Revenue for 1864, .... .... Do., 1865, • Do., 1866, .... $9,351,809) Extra duties for 1866, 216,745 ) Revenue for 1867, 9,724,284) Extra duties for 1 867 , 2,3 1 6,003 ( $1,327,902 $7,005,328 8,295,071 9,568,554 12,040,287 192 TABLE OF TIME. POST-OFFICE KETURNS. Letters. Papers. 1866, .... 1,894,594 .... 1,395,564 1867, .... 2,009,092 .... 1,449,6.50 There are 147 Post-offices in the Republic, viz. : 2 ; Jujuy, 3 ; Salta, 3 ; Tucuman, 3 ; Mendoza, 3 ; Santa Fe, 4; Cordoba, 4; Catamarca, 5; Entre Rios, 12; Corrientes, 15; and Buenos Ay res, 84. . Despatches. 102,779 109,156 San Luis, 2 ;• San Jugin, Rioja, 3 ; Santiago, 4 ; COMPARATIVE Wheu it is noon at Buenos Ayres Montevideo, Bio Janeyro, Bahia, Pernambuco, Valparaiso, New York, Port Boyal, Cape de Verd Islands, St. Helena, Madera, London, Paris, St. Petersburg, . . . Berlin, Vienna , Constantinople, ... Rome, Venice, Madrid, Lisbon, Calcutta, Canton, Jerusalem, Pekin,. ... Sydney, New Caledonia, , . . Cape of Good Hope, Cairo, .... Suez, TABLE OF it- is at — Hours. 12 12 1 1 11 10 10 2 3 2 3 4 5 4 4 5 4 4 3 2 9 II .6 II I 3 5 5 6 TIME, Minutes. 8 42 9 34 7 58 47 43 30 45 53 2 54 47 59 29 43 42 36 17 .^umil 46 26 14 39 58 3 7 58 3 Seconds. 43 P.M. 57 32 9 50 A.M. 35 15 32 p.m. 44 54 13 57 50 11 6 4^ J'loH 25 57 53

Vest, and fifty-two from North to South. The pavement and side-walks are bad and irregular ; the city cannot yet boast street- drainage, but is being provided with witer-supply, and is well lighted with gas. There are eleven parishes, containing sixteen Catholic churches, 2 THE CITY OF BUETs'OS AYRES. besides some chapels of ease, aud four Protestant churches. There are two city hospitals supported by the Municipality, and four of foreigners, belonging to the English, French, Italian, and Irish communities. The theatres are three in number, besides a handsome Concert-hall. The Custom-house offices are large, but a part of this edifice is now used as the National Government house. The Provincial Government house is close to the University, to which latter are attached the Museum and State Library, ■five markets, for the daily supply of the city with provisions, are placed at convenient distances ; and the Plazas 1 1th September, and Constitucionare the great wool-markets for the North and South districts of tlie camp. The two killing-grounds or ((abattoirs)) are situated in the extreme outskirts of the Recoleta and Convalecencia : the former locality is remarkable for the city cemetery, and tlie latter for the new and commodious Lunatic Asylum. The Protestant or English burial-ground is situate in Calle Victoria. Hotel accommodation is cheap and good, there being three superior, and five second-rate, houses, in which the charge varies from five to ten shillings per diem. The stranger finds himself at once at home in Buenos Ay res, as he can procure entree by a visitor's ticket to all the clubs and societies in the city. As yet we have no public park, but there is a project to turn Palermo, the late residence of Rosas, into a species of Champs Elysees. The number of English houses is large, and the merchants constitute the most respectable class in the society of the city; English families (including Americans) are about 1,000 in number. There are five rosident English physicians, and ten or twelve good English schools. The police department is imperfect, there being only some 200 vigilantes for the total city service. There is a barrack in the Plaza Retiro, the garrison being usually about 600 men. The artillery magazine in Plaza Parque contains some historic pieces of large calibre. The National Guards are drilled on Sundays during a few months in the year. Most foreign nations are represented by a Minister and a Consul, as vessels of all flags, and people of almost every country, are found in this port. The British Legation is in Calle Parque : at the Consulate, 121 Calle Mayo, is the English post-office. The French Consulate serves for a post-office to the Bordeaux monthly steamer. The Foreign Club, in Calle San Martin, is the usual rendezvous of visitors, who merely require to have their name put doAvn by one of the members. The native Clubs are fashionable and brilliant, but mostly used for balls : foreign visitors can easily procure invitations. The Cathedral is one of the finest buildings in the continent, and the church services on great holidays are solemnized with becoming splendor. THE CITY OF BUENOS A^RES. 6 There are two convents of friars, and two of (native) cloistered nuns, Avhicli escaped the suppression of religious orders after the Independence. The French Sisters of Charity have numerous institutes and schools, and the Irish Sisters of Mercy'have a school and hospital. The National and Provincial Governments, botji, reside in the city, and act in perfect harmony. The Municipality, composed of a dozen leading Argentines and foreign residents, has its Town-hall at the Policia. The Bolsa or Exchange is in Calle San Martin, and here the visitor will meet all the business men of the city, native and foreign. The Commercial Rooms, next door to the Capitania, supply the latest shipping intelligence, and possess first-rate telescopes and a reading room. The Casa de Moneda or Bank of the Province is the headquarters of our paper-money. The Maud Bank was the first private bank in the city, established in 1858. The London and River Plate Bank, established in 1863, does a large and remunerative business. The Argentine Bank is of recent date. The Argentine General Post-office, Calle Bolivar, is directed by Don Gervasio Posadas. The chief Courts of Law are in the Cabildo, Plaza Victoria, in the tower of which is the new town clock. The Congress-hall, open from May to November, is in Plaza Mayo, beside the Custom-house. Each parish has a Justice of Peace, and male and female public schools. The inhabitants are generally w^ell educated. There are ten daily papers, six Spanish, one English, one French, one German, and one Italian. Foreigners enjoy the fullest immunities, but have of course no represen- tation or voice in the Legislature. There are few cities that have made such progress as Buenos Ayres in the last ten years. In 1859 we had six miles of railway; at present we have 200 miles, on the Northern, Southern, Western and Ensenada lines* In 1859 there was but one line of ocean steamers ; now there are seven lines from England, France, Belgium, Italy and the United States. In 1859 there were but two Banks: at present there are four. In 1859 the newspaper circulation was 3,000 daily; it now amounts to 20,000. In 1859 the population was 100.000, just half the present estimate. In 1859 there was not a single English joint-stock company, nor an insurance oflSce, in the country; to-day it would be difficult to number them. In 1859 the number of immigrants was 4,700 ; at present the returns shew 30,000 per annum. In 1859 the business of the Post-oflice comprised 400,000 letters and papers; at present it is nearly 4,000,000. In 1859 the Customs revenues were about £200,000; now they exceed £2.000,000 sterling. The same increase is observable in every branch of industry oc enterprise. Tramways are about to be established throughout the city and suburbs, 02 * THE CITY OF BUEiXOS AYRES. the following lines being either projected or in course of construction. I . From the Custom-house, along Calle Rivadavia, to the Plaza Once de Setiembre; 2. From Plaza Parque to Plaza Monserrat ; 3. From the Plaza Constitucion terminus to the Plaza 25 de Mayo ; 4. From Plaza Libertad to Plaza Victoria ; 5. From 'the Cinco Esquinas to the village of Belgrano. On the first first four lines the uniform charge would be §1, the proprietors paying the municipality 20 per cent, of the gross receipts, for use of the streets. The suburbs of Belgrano, San Fernando, Flores and Barracas are pretty, and studded with charming country seats. The AVesteru Eailway is open (100 miles) to Chivilcoy, the Northern (20 miles) to the Tigre, the Great Southern (75 miles) to Chascomus, and the Ensenada line (3 miles) to Barracas. Pleasant boating excursions may be made to Las Conchas, the islands of Carapachay, and the delta of the Parana. There is almost daily steam communication with the river ports, and diligences ply to the various camp towns. The mortality of the city is thirteen daily or twenty-four per mil per annum. Immigration, 2,500 monthly. Municipal income, £120,000 per annum. Buenos Ayres is the grand centre of communication between this part of South America and Europe. The traveller may here book himself for any of the river ports in the Parana or Uruguay, or for the upper provinces of the Interior, or for the more distant republics of Paraguay, Bolivia, or Chile. He may even take a steamboat trip 2,000 miles up the river, into the interior of Brazil, passing Asuncion. Or if anxious to visit the Indian tribes of Patagonia, he will find monthly steamboat communication with Bahia Blanca and Rio Negro. As a place of residence for the visitor or invalid, no city in this hemisphere has superior attractions. The climate is healthy, and there are a variety of public amusements, fashionable and enlightened society, a healthy atmosphere of progress, and an almost weekly mail from Europe. HOTjELS, CLUBS, THEATRES. CHAP. II. HOTELS, CLUBS, THEATRES, .OD PLAZAS. HOTELS. Thei\e are three first-rate hotels, and several of lesser note — • Hotel de la Paix, 56 Calle Cangallo, contains nearly 100 apartments, well ventilated. The «rairador)) is one of the highest objects in the city, and commands a splendid view. English, French, and Spanish spoken. The proprietor, M. Marechal, has also a «maison meublee,» called Hotel San Martin, next the Bolsa, where visitors who purpose making a long stay will find suitable rooms with board. Charges vary from $50 to $120 (Ss. to £1) per day, according to accommodation. Hotel du Louvre, 95 Calle San Martin, is a new house, elegantly fitted up, and the charges are much the same as at La Paix. English and other languages spoken. Hotel du Provence, 25 Calle Cangallo ; very comfortable, and much frequented by* English. Madame Boch is very attentive to families. This is one of the oldest and most respectable houses in town. Charges, §40 a day, and upwards. Hotel del Globo, 38 Calle Mayo : an Italian house, well kept, with a fine view of the roadstead. Charge, $40 a day. Hotel de Paris, 43 Calle j\layo ; much frequented by Frenchmen ; the dining-saloon overlooks the beach, good cuisine. Charge, $40 per day. Hotel de Europa, 53 Calle Mayo, established in 1809, much frequented by Dutch ship-captains; good board and attendance. Charge, $35 per day. The Victoria Hotel, Mr. John Geoghegan proprietor, 21 Calle Corrientes. This house is the rendezvous of Irish sheepfarmers when they come to town. 6 HOTELS AND CLUBS. Furnished apartments, without board, may be obtained at the Universelle, 1 02 Calle San Martin ; the Ancla Dorada, 76 Calle Cangallo; the Maison- meublee, No. 2 Calle Mayo; Mrs. Whittaker's, 77 Calle Mayo; Mrs. Summer's, 82 Calle Parque; Mrs. Stafford's, 190 Calle San Martin; Mr. Lewis, 1 16 Florida, and other respectable English houses, all of which are kept with the utmost neatness. The charges usual are — bed-room and parlor gSOO to $1,200 (£7 to 10£) a month; bed-room, with attendance, $300 to §700 a month. Unfurnished rooms may be procured at $200 to $500 a month, and young men sometimes prefer taking lodgings with, a native family, in order the quicker to learn Spanish. If the stranger wish to take a house, he will find it difficult to get one iu a hurry, but must patiently advertise and wait. The best localities are the Plaza Retire, Drabble Row, Plaza Parque, Whitfield's quintas, and Ludlam's terrace (Calle Dcfcnsa) : rent, from $1 ,500 to $3,000 a month. CLUBS. The Foreign Ckib, No. 36 Calle San Mdrtin, was established in 1841, its first President having been the head of« the well known firm of Thomas Duguid & Co. : it was then situate on the site before occupied by Faunch's hotel, and which is now the English book-store of Messrs. Mackern. The present new building is elegant and commodious. The reading-room is probably the best in South America ; there is a good billiard-room, and the coffee-room and cuisine are in English style, with reasonalDle charges : the other apartments are to match, the only drawback being that the premises are small, and command no view from the front. The slate in the hall contains the latest maritime intelligence, and the saloons are crowded at every hour in the day with th:e merchants of the city. The original number of subscribers was 150, but is now 274. Entrance fee, $2,000 ; subscription for town residents $70, for country residents $35 per month. Foreign ministers, consuls, officers, and clergymen are admitted as honorary members. Visitors' tickets, available gratis for three months, may be procured by application to any of the members ; such tickets may be prolonged four months more, by paying the monthly subscription. The Club del Progreso was founded, May 1st 1852, by Messrs. Diego Alvear, Rufino Elizalde, Gervasio A. Posadas, and Juan Martin Estrada. Foreigners were admitted as members, and a spirit of social harmony began to be cultivated, after the long tyranny of Rosas. The bye-laws specially provided for balls at stated periods, which soon became the most brilliant «reuiiions» in South America. In 1859, Sr. Muiloz having concluded his GERMA>' CLUBS. 7 spleudid house at the corner of Calles Peru and Victoria, the Club removed thither. The suite of saloous is unrivalled, and their luxury and style quite in keeping with the gay and fashionable society that has gained for the Progreso balls a Parisian reputation. The reading-room, library, billiard-room, conversation-hall, &c. are well arranged. The commercial news of the day is marked down on a slate. Besides the monthly balls, there are others on the grand fete-days of Buenos Ayres : strangers caa procure an invitation through any of the members. The number of members is over 400 ; entrance fee, $3,000 me ; monthly subscription, §75. The Chib del Plata was founded, August 6th 1860, in the building formerly occupied by the Philharmonic Society, 112 Bivadavia. The saloons are spacious and handsome (President Derqui lodged here, on his visit to Buenos Ayres, in 1860). The style and character of tliis Club are similar to those of the Progreso, and the balls almost as brilliant. Foreign residents may become members, and, visitors can easily procure an invitation. Entrance fee §600, and monthly subscription $60. The Club del Parqve has been recently opened in Calle Artes, and is a rendezvous for the neighbors of the West end. The British Library, No. 5 Calle Defensa, was established about forty years ago, and contains 1,600 works of general literature, besides a reading-room furnished with the leading local and English journals : there is a chess and smoking-room. Mr. Duffy, the librarian, is very attentive to visitors. The rooms are open on all week days, from 9a.m. to 10p.m. There are printed catalogues, price $5 ; and a list is posted up^each month of the new works received by the packet. Subscribers may take out a book for a stated number of days, passing which a small fine is exacted. Periodicals are likewise lent out. The subscription fof the Lending- library and reading-room is $2 iO ayear. Mr. Mudie supplies the institute with books. "^ (lerman Chtbs — There are no less than nine German clubs or societies. 1. The Germania, founded in 1853, composed of respectable tradesmen and their families, to the number of 250 members. They occasionally give concerts, balls, and amateur theatrical performances. They have a good reading room, with newspapers and books, also a piano, and the billiard room and skittle ground are open daily. 2. The Gymnastic Club, founded in 1854, comprises about 400 merchants agd clerks, who have a large haU wherein gymnastic exercises are performed on certain days of the week : a small hall is being built for boys. The 14th anniversary was recently- celebrated with a great athletic match and game of skittles, attended by a 8 OPERA HOUSE Ai\D THEATRES. number of ladies, the festivity concluding with a banquet. Thei^e are four fine skittle grounds, and a nice garden attached to the club. 3. The Teutonia, established in 1861, counts 100 members, mostly mercantile clerks, A\ho give musical entertainments from time to time : their reading room contains books and papers in several languages ; there are also music and billiard rooms and a refreshment and conversation hall. 4. The Concordia, opened in 1864, has 150 members, mostly tradesmen, who form a musical association and have a skittle ground, reading-room, &c. 5. The German Singing Academy, founded in 1864, counts 400 members who devote themselves entirely to the study of classical and sacred music. Concerts are given at regular intervals in the German church and the Coliseum, Avith the most brilliant success. 6. The Heimath, or «home,)> was founded in 1865, and has about 100 members of the mercantile class : reading-room, billiards, and music-hall. The club has quite a musical character. 7. The Kranken-verein, founded in 1865, is a society for the relief of sick persons. 8. The German Hospital Society, is similar to the last, founded in 1867, 'for the purpose of establishing a German hospital :, a concert was given at the Coliseum towards this end. 9. The Thalia, founded in 1867, counts already eighty members, mostly tradesmen, who recreate themselves at skittles daily, and have also a billiard room, a good supply of books and journals, and a music room : they sometimes give balls and concerts. It will be seen that most of the above clubs are of an eminently musical character, and the Germans also form a large proportion of the Philharmonic Society. In 1865 there was a grand gathering of all the German musical associations of Buenos Ayres, Rosario, Montevideo and Eio Grande in the first-named city, and the festivities were kept up for three days. THEATRES. Colon Theatre, called after. Columbus, stands at the N.E. corner of Plaza 'Victoria; it is used as an opera house, and is the finest theatre in the Continent. It was built in 1856, by a joint-stock company, at a cost of £40,000 ; the roof is of iron, and was put up by Mr. Turner of Dublin. The architect was Mr. Charles Pelligrini. The house can conveniently hold 2,500 persons : tliere are three tiers of boxes, above which is the Cazuela, for ladies only ; the upper gaUery is called the Paraiso. In the pit there are only gentlemen ; but a few rows of front stalls are set apart for ladies and gentlemen. Ladies in tlie boxes usually wear ball dress, but tlw) etiquette in this particular is not rigid. There are tcrtulia seats on eitlier VICTORIA THEATRE. 9 •side of the President's state-box, for ladies and gentlemen ; and screened boxes below for parties in mourning. The appearance of the house, when full, is extremely brilliant : \he stage is of great size, the scenery very fine, and the orchestra good ; the performances are fair enough, though not equal to what is seen in Europe. Performances commence in winter at 7.30 P.M., and in summer at 8.30 p.m. A first-rate coffee-house is attached to the theatre. Between the acts it is very customary to go around visiting friends in the boxes. Smoking is not allowed in the passages. The house is well lighted and ventilated, but the accommodation for entrance and exit is insufficient. Performances are given three times a week. Boxes, $200; tertulias, $30; pit, $20; cazuela, $15: besides these charges every one has to pay $20 entrance ; there is no charge to the paraiso, other than that of entrance. The theatre is not exclusively devoted to the opera but often used for the Spanish drama or other entertainments. Public dinners are sometimes given here, and the annual distribution of premiums to the State schools, on the 26th of May, is a grand function. During Carnival there is a series of masked balls, when the splendid suite of saloons is also thrown open, and as many as 4,000 tickets are sold in a night: the dancing is confined to the pit, which is crowded with the demi monde. From the roof is obtained the finest xiew in Buenos Ayres, taking in the city and suburbs a vol d^oiseau. At times even the coast of Banda Oriental is visible — the town of Colonia, and Cerro de San Juan — but this is an infallible sign of bad weather. There is a fire engine, with water- tank, on the roof. Victoria Theatre^ 344 Calle Victoria, is devoted to the Spanish drama; it holds 1 ,500 persons, but is badly constructed for sound. It is used once or twice a year by English amateurs, who give an English play, for benefit of the British Hospital. Boxes, $100— tertulias, $15— pit, $10— Cazuela, $10 — and entrance $10. Performances, three times a week. The site of this theatre was quite outside the city only sixty years ago. "When building the foundations the workmen came upon an old ditch, in which were discovered the bones and accoutrements of a number of English soldiers who fell in the unfortunate invasion of Whitelocke, xV.D. 1807. Franco Argentine Theatre, in Calle Cangallo, opposite the Hotel de la Paix, belongs to the French Bouffes, who give two or three performances -weekly. It holds 1,000 persons. This was the oldest theatre in Buenos Ayres, till 1857, when it was almost destroyed in a riot ; it was used as a Custotti-house depot till 186i, when 3Iadame Pauline converted it into a French theatre, taking a lease of it for nine years. The performances 10 THE COLISEUM. consist of burlesques and comic operas. Upper boxes, $125 — lower boxes, §100— tertulia seats, $15— pit, $10— entrance, $10. The Coliseum. This elegant concert-hall was built by the English and German residents in 1865, in shares of £10 each, the architects being Messrs. Hunt and Schroedcr. It stands in Calle Parque, between Calles Esmeralda and Suipacha, and cost about £12,000 sterling. Being simply a Concert-hall, it is small but beautifully arranged, with seats for 500 persons, and cloak-rooms, ladies' apartments, dining-hall, &c. suitable for balls, public dinners or such like purpose. The vestibule has three entrance-doors : the grand hall is lofty and well designed, with seven frescoes on the left and four on the right, the other three niches on the right being occupied by doors opening into a corridor. These frescoes, from the palette of M. Palliere, comprise the following allegories : — we begin on the left, 1 . Figure of Victory, a woman crowned with palm. 2. A female Bacchante. 3. A girl playing on a guitar. 4. A priestess playing on the lyre. 5. Rustic poetry: a woman dancing and playing on the triangle. 6. Comedy: Folly with her cap and bells. 7. The Idylls: a woman playing on the ancient double-flute. On the right side, we have — 1. Chant de Joie : a woman playing castauetts. 2. Chant de Deuil: female figure with urn and cypress-wreath. 3. Saored Song: .woman playing an organ. 4th, Concert Music : woman playing a violin. At the end of the hall, beliind the orchestra, are three doors communicating with the salle-a-manger and ladies' apartments. The corridor on the right of the hall leads into a small court-yard with glass-roof, and other out-oflices. The cloak-rooms are on either side of the vestibule at the entrance to the hall. The front of the building is very chaste, with the motto «Artibas et Musis.)) The large hall measures forty feet by eighty-five, and is lighted by three gasoliers, with 110 jets, from the ceiling, which is forty feet high. The hall is admirably suited for singing, there being no gallery or other impediment to the sound. The dining-hall is 26x40 feet : behind the smoking room follow the servants' apartments and kitchen The Coliseum was inaugurated in November 1865, with a series of concerts by Professors Reinkcn, Werner and Schramm. The grand electric telegraph banquet was given here in November 1866, on the completion of the cable and wires to Montevideo. Balls and concerts are given at intervals, with great brilliancy and success. The select concerts of the German Singing Academy are considered very fine, but the number of invitations is limited. The Philharmonic Society, comprising the best Argentine and foreign amateurs, gives public concerts, which are always fashionably attended. THE PLAZA VICTORIA. 11 PLAZAS. The Plaza Victoria is the great square of the city, covering an area of 21,000 square yards. In the centre is the column of Liberty, with the inscription «25 de Mayo, 1810,)) to commemorate the revolution of Buenos Ayres, which resulted in the independence of all South x\merica. Each side of the plaza has a row of paradise trees and marble seats : here the citizens sometimes sit, on summer evenings, while a band plays. The plaza is at times used for military reviews, the troops defiling in front of the Policia, and the President and staff occupying the municipal balcony. The Policia is under the direction of Don Enrique O'Gorman, who levies fmes for the infraction of municipal regulations, and condemns minor offenders to sweep the streets or suffer confinement for some days. The Cabildo, erected in 1711, was the Town Hall, under the Spaniards, and is now the seat of the Law Courts: it was struck by lightning in 1862, but now has a conductor. On the ground-floor are the notaries' offices, and inside is the prison for malefactors. After 11 p.m. no one can pass under this arcade. The town clock, in the Cabildo tower, was put up by Messrs. Jaeggli & Dia vet, agents for Koskell of Liverpool, in 1861. The former timepiece was very irregular, the weights being of sand, Avhich changed under atmospheric influences : the present one is illuminated by night until 12 o'clock, and keeps excellent time; its cost was £500. The Recoba Nueva, or new arcade;, is on the south side of the Plaza, and consists of a number of shops. There is a cab stand at the corner ; the cabs are usually better than are found in most European cities. The north side of the Plaza is occupied by the Cathedral and the Archbishop's house. The portico and facade of the Cathedral are massive and yet 'elegant, the fa(ade being decc rated with an alto-relievo of « Joseph embracing his brethren,)) to commemorate the family compact of Buenos Ayres with the Argentine Provinces after the civil wars of 1853 — 59. The episcopal palace was erected by order of the Legislature of the Province of Buenos Ayres, in 1861 : it is spacious and well-built. Alongside is an old house, with tile roof : the owners refused a fabulous price for the site, whereon it was proposed to build a bank. At the corner of the Cathedral and Calle San Martin is a liistoric monument — the foundation-stone of Buenos Ayres, A.D. 1535: it is now covered with an iron plate, but remained in its original state, open to view, till 1862, when a water-cart broke off a large piece of it. It is nearly round, and quite rough and unpolished. Don Juan de Garay called this square the Plaza Mayor, which name it preserved till August, 1806, when it gained its present name, in honor of the complete 12 PLAZA 25 DE MAYO. victory over General Beresford. The Recoba Vieja is a kind of Moorish arcade, with an ugly triumphal arch of brick and mortar, in the centre. Hair-cutters, shoemakers, confectioners, and small dealers have shops on either side of the arcade, the back looking into Plaza Mayo. The property belongs to Sefior Anchorena. It is a great eye-sore, and should be knocked down as soon as possible. In front of the Recoba, municipal fireworks are let off on the civic festivals. The Plaza 25 de Mayo is separated from the Plaza Victoria by the Recoba A'^ieja, and overlooks the river. It has the same area as the Plaza Victoria, and the chief object of interest is the Custom-house, which was^ built in 1855 : it stands on the site of the old fort of Santa Trinidad, erected by the first Spanish settlers. Although possessing great historic interest the fort was demolished, and the present inferior building put up in its place. The old fort was the residence of tlie Spanish Viceroys, tlie headquarters of General Beresford in the English invasion of 1805, and the scene of the revolution of 1810. There was a tradition that the Spaniards had buried a great quantity of treasure here, but all efforts to discover the same have been unsuccessful. In 1863 Mr. Wilks disinterred a large iron cliest near the spot, but the treasure, if any^ had been previously taken a^Yay. The present Custom-house is elegant and commodious, but subject to inundation at high tides: that portion next the Plaza is used as the National Government-house, and was twice burned in I8G7. In the upper story are the President's saloons, and here foreign ministers are received. At the entrance facing the Recoba arch, is a portico surmounted by the national flag. In the civil war of 1859 the building was occupied jointly by English, American, and French marines, with artillery. Near the corner of Calle Balcarce is the Congress-hall, a small amphitheatre, where the Chambers meet daily during the session, from May to November. The hall was built in 1863 by Sr. Larguia : it holds 800 persons, and the public galleries are accessible by a wretched winding-stair, while the ventilation of the hall is also insufficient. The members speak sitting down. The policeman at the door will admit no one with a walking-stick. The ante- chamber forms a large waiting-room, where mdte is serve'd to the Deputies : the other rooms are occupied by the secretaries and servants. On this site was the old barrack for National Guards. The north side of the Plaza is made up of the Colon theatre, the livery stables of AUinson and 3Ialcolm, and two large buildings at the corners of Callc Mayo used for furnished lodghigs and offices. Between the Custom-house and the Pasco Julio is the terminus of the Northern Railway tramway, and at this point it is proposed to build a grand station, where the four city railways shall PLAZA DEL RETIRO. 13 converge. In former times, political offenders and others were shot in this Plaza. Pillado states that this plaza was formerly one with that of Victoria, but at the beginning of the present century it went by the name of Plaza de Perdices (partridge square) because the vendors of game and poultry had their stands here. In 1822, when all the streets and plazas received new names, it was designated by its present title in honor of the revolution against Spain. In the first plan of the city this square is given to the Adelanlado or Governor. A fort called after San Baltazar of Austria stood on the site now occupied by that part of tlie Government-house which faces the Recoba arch. The Plaza del Retiro^ sometimes called Plaza Marte, forms the N.E. point of the city, at the end of Calles Florida andMaypu, just over the gas works. It has an area of eight acres, say 42,000 square yards, and was first arranged as a public garden in 1860. In June, 1862, the equestrian statue of General San Martin was put up : it is cast in bronze, and was made in Paris, repre- senting the hero of Argentine Independence crossing the Andes : he points to the streets Maypii and Chacabuco, called after his two great victories over the Spaniards. Critics find fault with the horse's tail, but the figure is altogether bold and graceful. The marble pedestal is fifteen feet high, and the statue fifteen feet more. There are seats in various parts of the garden, and the band on Sunday afternoons often draws a concourse of people. The barrack of the Retiro has accommodation for 1 ,000 men ; it formed a part of Beresford's attack on the city in 1806 : a dreadful explo- sion occuii'ed in 1865, blowing up a great portion of the building, and killing seventy men. The steam saw-mill, or «carpinteria mecanica,)) of M. Emile Landois, was the first of the kind in these countries, and inaugu- rated by Governor Valentin Alsina in May 1857. M. Landcis introduced the most improved machinery from France and the United States, and em- ploys eighty operatives. At the other end of the Plaza is a fine house, built in English fashion, called Quinta de Laprida ; it was for some years occu- pied by Dr. Scrivener, and is now an English school, under the direction of Dr. White. There is a good view of the city from this plaza. KX the foot of the hill is the Retiro Station of the Northern Railway. The city records relate that the Retiro derives its name from having been under the early Spaniards, the retreat of a hermit, whose name, however, is not preserved. In 1702, when the English carried on a slave trade between Africa and the River Plate, a company of British merchants established here a depot for slaves, and built that part of the barrack which looks westward. Towards the close of the 18th century the other wing, now occupied by a park of light artillery, was erected; and in 1818 the H PLAZAS LOREA AND PARQUE. centre of the edifice. Between 1800 and 1818 the site was used as a Bull-ring, which was pulled down in the latter year, and the materials were used for the barrack. In 1808 the square was called Campo de Gloria, alluding to the success of the patriot forces which marched from this point against Geueral Beresford and re-conquered the city, in 1806. Subsequently, in 1822, the name was changed to Plaza Marte. The Plaza Lorea is ten blocks west of Plaza Victoria, between Calles lUvadavia and Victoria, and derives its name from Don Isidro Lorea, a neighbour of this locality, who was killed along with his wife in the defence of this point of the city against General W'hitelocke's troops. Formerly it was the rendezvous of bullock-carts from the South. In 1860 an effort was made to sink an Artesian well ; after a great outlay, it proved a failure. The Lorea market was established in 1864. The Plaza was originally known as Plaza de Piedad. The Plaza Moyiserrat, at the junction of Calles Belgrano and Bueu Orden, is a small square,, about two acres in extent, deriving its name from the adjoining church of Our Lady of Monserrat. Behind the Plaza, in Calle Lima, is the temporary station of the tramway running to the Southern terminus in the Plaza Constitucion. In 1860 the Plaza was rented out to a Circus Company, but now it is neatly arranged, with trees and seats. The proper name of this square is Plaza General San Martin, but it is usually known by the name given it by the first settlers. In 1808 it was ordered to be designated as Plaza de Fidelidad in commemoration of the fidelity of the negroes, Indians, and cross-breeds who formed a volunteer battalion and drilled in this place to aid in repelling the English invasions of 1806 and 1807. In 1822 the name was changed to Plaza Bueu Orden; and again in 1849 Rosas varied it by calling the Plaza after the hero of Argentine Independence, putting up at the same time on each corner the following inscription — ((Campaign of the Andes, from December 12th, 1816, to February 12th, 1817.)) The Plaza del Parque is situated in the west-end of town, and derives its name from the Artillery magazine, where some rare old guns are still pre- served. The plaza covers eight acres, and is nicely laid out, with a casino in the centre, and merry-go-rounds for children. A band plays every Sun- day afternoon, but the company is not so fashionable as at the Betiro. The "Western Railway bisects the plaza diagonally, and there are some fine houses in the neighborhood. In 1861 it was made a public garden, with paradise trees, scats, and railings. On the north side is the magnificent residence of Seiior Miro, surrounded by neat gardens. The Western Railway termi- nus is on the east side — and here was started the first railway in the River PLAZAS INDEPENDENCIA AND SETIEMBRE. 15 Plate. This line belongs to the Provincial Government, and runs as far as Chivilcoy, 101 miles ^vestward. It is being prolonged to Bragado. The Plaza Lihertad is a small square of four acres, close to the Parque ; in 1862 it was laid out and planted, previous to which time the bullock- carts used to encamp here. As yet, there are few fine houses, although the situation is high and favorable. This square, previous to 1822, was known as Hueco de Dofia Engracia, that being the name of the lady who benevolently ceded it to the city for a public square. Adjacent to this square, in Calle Libertad, is the French Hospital, under charge of the «Soeurs de Charite». The Plaza Indcpendencia, at the junction of Cidles Independcncia and Buen Orden, is in the south end, covering an area of 3 acres, and recently laid out as a public garden. It was formerly called Plaza de Concepcion, from the adjoining church of that name, the roof of which fell in (I860) while in course of construction : the edifice is now nearly finished. Beside the church is a «corralon)) sometimes used for a barrack. In the siege of 1 859 the Plaza was.made an artillery depot. Hard-by is the institute of Los Ejercicios, a house of detention for women who may have been guilty of minor offences. The Plaza is called after the Independence of the Argentine Republic, proclaimed at Tucuman, July 9th, 1816. The Plaza Constitucion, at the extreme south point of the city, is a large, open space, covering about twenty acres. All the bullock-carts from the South, with wool and hides, encamp here, to the number of several hundreds, although they are going very much out of fashion since the opening of the Southern Railway. Large deposit stores or «barracas» are in the neighbourhood. The tramway runs through the Plaza, and the Southern terminus is a handsome and commodious structure : the Southern Railway runs out seventy-two miles, to Chascoraus. A little beyond the Plaza are the Mataderos where cattle are killed for the city markets. Tlie brokers have a club and veading-room in the Plaza, Avhere they meet to transact business. The busy wool-season is from November to March. The Plaza Once de Setiembre, at the extreme west of the city, has an area of twelve acres ; it is the great produce market for the western and northern districts. During the wool season this place is crowded with Irish sheep- farmers: air. Duggan does the chief business with his countrymen, and has large deposit stores in the Plaza. The Once de Setiembre (11th of September) is so called in commemoration of a revolution on that day (1852) wliich expelled General Urquiza from Buenos Ayres; an insigni- ficant statue once decorated the Plaza, but it has been removed to the Parque casino. The new workshops of th^ Western Railway are worthy 16 CITY MARKETS. of note, and behind them is Mr. Ryan's «lavadero)> for washing sheep- skins. There are some large mills, and Demarchi's ice-factory, in the neighbourhood. The Plaza is twenty-three «cuadras)), nearly two miles, west of Plaza Victoria, and an omnibus plies every quarter-hour, fare ^5. It is also the first station on the Western Railway, being one and a-half miles from the Parque terminus. MARKETS. There are five city markets for the supply of meat, vegetables, poultry, frtiit, fish, flowers, singing-birds, butter, cheese, eggs, &c. Beef and mutton are brought in carts from the mataderos ; vegetables and fruit are mostly supplied by the Italian «quinteros)) of the suburbs ; the river al- ways gives an abundance of dorado, pejerey, bagre, and other excellent kinds of fish ; the railway trains bring in a profusion of partridge, duck, and domestic poultry ; and the ((chacreros)) of Moron, Quilmes, &c., raise most of the butter and eggs. Moreover, fruit is often brought from Montevideo or Brazil, and sometimes cheese and butter from the Swiss colonies of Entre Rios or Santa Fe. The best potatoes come from Baradero, the Carapachay islands and Chivilcoy ; the best peaches from Point Santiago, Ensenada ; the best meat is that killed in the camp, and brought in by rail; and the best butter is that from Euglish-bred cows. The city- is supplied with milk by a number of Basque «lecheros,» who come in on horseback every morning from Quilmes, Lomas de Zamora, and Moron. The pork raised in the country is to be avoided, the pigs being usually fed in the saladeros. Game is alwavs abundant and cheap ; poultry is very dear. The best hour for marketing is five o'clock a.m. It is necessary to beware of buying «tired» beef, which- looks sound, but is apt to cause diarrhoea. The usual market prices are as follows : — Beef, §1 per U ; fish, $3 ; potatoes, gl ; vegetables, §2 ; partridges, §10 per pair ; ducks, §10; chickens, §25 ; turkeys, §40 each; butter, §15 per %; eggs, §10 per doz.; mutton, §10 per quarter; peaches, §1 per doz. The Old Market is at the corner of Calles Potosi and Peru, and is as old as the city itself. It was formerly very unclean and inconvenient, till Messrs. Urien rebuilt it in its present form, in 1864: it is still much too small, not quite two acres, and is surrounded on all sides with houses, preventing proper ventilation. Until 1859 it was the only market in the city. The fees for market stalls form a part of the municipal revenue, and no one can open a shop for meat or vegetables within a certain distance (half-a-mile or so) of any of the markets. The chief entraaces to the Old CITY MARKETS. 17 Market are at the corners of Calles Potosi, Chacabuco, and Moreno. In 1865 some excavations were made opposite to the University, when a quantity of long hair was found in an old well : the site had been, at the beginning of this century, occupied by a barrack for the Blandengues or militia frontier regiment, who, on being ordered to cut their hair short, mutinied and were only quelled after much bloodshed. The Old Market is in the most central and populous part of the town. The Mercado del Plata , at the junction of Calles Artes and Cuyo, was built in 1839 and called «The New^ Market, » occupying an area of less than two acres. It was formerly called Plaza de Union, because here the patriots assembled to expel Whitelocke. In 1822 the name was changed to Plaza Artes. It was partly burnt down in 1863. The stall-keepers are mostly Italians, and the market is always well supplied. It is the only market in the N.E. corner of the town. The Mercado del Comercio was erected in 1862 and inaugurated by General 3Iitre : it occupies a small square (| of an acre) that was formerly called Plaza de Comercio, and previous to 1822 known as Plaza de Residencia. This market answers for the extreme south end of the city, being ten cuadras S. of Plaza Victoria. The Mercado de Lorea was opened by Governor Saavedrain 1861, adjacent to the Plaza Lorea, and covering about one acre. It is fitted up with great taste, but does not belong to the Municipality, the owners being several private parties who purchased the right to open the market on their own account, for the benefit of the large population in the west end of the town : it is situate eight cuadras west of the Old Market. The Mercado de Independencia^ at the corner of Calles Independencia and Lima, is less than an acre in extent, and not so w ell supplied as the other markets. It was opened in 186G, for the S.W. quarter of the city. The. Mercado del Norte was opened by Don Eduardo Madero in 1867, in a site formerly used as a nursery, at the junction of Calles Florida and Cordoba. It covered an area of two acres, and was intended to supply the north end of the town, being fitted up in excellent style. It has not, however, proved successful, and is now used as a Customs deposit, called the Aduana Chica, where all cargoes by steamers from abroad are deposited : it is the great bonded warehouse of foreign im.)ortei s. 18 PUBLIC DEPIRTMENTS. CHAP. III. PUBLIC DEPARTMENTS. GOVERiyMENT-HOUSE, POST-OFFICE, POLICIA. The National Government-House, in Plaza 25 de Mayo, is an unsightly and irregular ediiice : it was twice partially burnt in 1867, whenmany valuable documents were lost. The President's saloons, upstairs, are fine and airy, with a good view of the port : here the Foreign Ministers are received when- presenting their credentials. The various Departments of the Interior, Foreign Affairs, Finance, Instruction, and War, have their offices in the same building: office hours from 1 1 a.m. to 4 p.m. The ofiices of the Tesoreria and Contaduria are on the ground floor. The Stamp Office is in the new Custom-house, open from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., for the sale of National stamped paper. Thirty days are allowed by law for stamping notes or documents of any kind. After that period any unstamped paper brought before any court must pay a fine ten times the amount of the proper stamp. Old stamps, not used, may be exchanged. The Provincial Stamj) Office is in tlie Government-house, Calle Moreno, and here all documents, except, for the Custom-house or Federal Courts, must be stamped. The Post-Office, 115 Calle Bolivar, is lodged in very small and inconve- nient premises. Mr. Posadas has greatly reformed this bianch of the public service, but there is still great room for improvement, if the revenue would admit. The principal hall for despatch of business is Avell arranged aul has a bust of Rivadavia. Mr. Hansen and others of the officials speak THE POST-OFFICE. 19. • English. Office hours in summer, from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., and in theevening^ ft-omSp.M. to 7 P.M.: in winter from 8 a.m. to 4p.m. On Sundays and holidays, from 9 a.m. to noon ; but when the mails from Europe arrive the office is kept open indefinitely. Over 4,000,000 papers and letters pass through the office in the year. There are branch -offices at the Captain of the Port's and the various railway stations. Letters are delivered through town twice a day. The mails are despatched every day to the principal towns in the province of Buenos Ay res, viz. — 1. Bj the Western Railway to Flores, San Martin, Moron, Merlo, Moreno, Matanzas, Lujan, Mercedes, Chivilcoy, Las Heras, and Ghacabuco : there are diligences plying from these various stations, which take mails to the following towns : Pilar, Capilla del Seilor, San Antonio, Arrecifes, Lobos, Saladillo, 25 de Mayo, Giles, Fortin de Areco, Salto, Rojas, Pergamino, Junin, Navarro, Bragado, and Nueve de Julio. 2. By the Northern Railway to Belgrano, San Isidro, San Fernando, Tigre, and Conchas : the steamboats from the Tigre take mails three times a week to Zarate, Baradero, San Pedro, San Nicolas, Bosario, Santa Fe, ParanA, and Gualeguay. 3. By the Southern Railway to Barracas, Lomas de Zamorra, San Vicente, Chascomus, and intermediate stations, from which the diligences radiate to Ranchos, Canuelas, Monte, Las Flores, Tapalquen, Dolores, Pila, Vecino, Monsalvo, AjO, Tordillo, Mar-Chiquita, Loberia, Tandil, Juarez, and Azul. 4. By the Boca railway, to the Boca and Barracas. 5. The diligence goes twice a week to Quilmes, Ensenada, and Magdalena. 6. To Bahia Blanca and Patagones hy steamer once a month. 7. To Cordoba, Tucuman, Salta and the northern provinces three times a week, via Bosario. 8. To San Luis, 3Iendoza, and San Juan, once a week, via Bosario. 9. To Chile, Peru, and the other Spanish republics, once a week, via Rosario and Mendoza. 10. To Corrientes and Paraguay by steamer twice a week. 11. To Santa Fe twice a week. 12. To Salto, Paysandii, Concepcion and other ports of the Uruguay twice a week. 13. To Montevideo every evening. 14. To Europe by the French packet and the English packets every month, as also by the Liverpool, London, and Marseilles lines of steamers. 15. To Brazil via Montevideo by the Brazilian, English, and French mail-steamers, eight times a month. All letters must be prepaid, except those directed to the President, Governors, or Ministers of State, and any letters found unstamped, in the Buzon, will be detained and published, as well as those witliout a direction. Letters may be certified or registered, for greater security. The post-office will take no letters outside the mail-bags : sliip-captaijis or passengers having letters must deliver them on arrival to the Captain of the Port. Army-letters are carried free. Letters uncalled for are F2 20 PUBLIC DEPARTMEIVTS. published eyery three months, and burned at the end of the year in presence of the proper authorities, after first taking out any documents that maybe of \alue. It is prohibited to send money or articles of value, through the post, even in registered letters : such articles must be forwarded through steamboats or other agencies ; samples of goods through the Custom-house. Special couriers for private parties pay ten cents per league, besides the usual postage. The law of 1863 fixes the posting charges in the upper provinces at one real (Qd.) per league for each horse. The post-house keepers must always provide travellers with horses, and give them hospitality at conventional terms. Parties carrying unstamped letters are fined ^50 or imprisoned for six months. Robbing the mail is punishable with four years penal service. The tariff for all letters is five cents (or ^H Buenos Ayres currency) for letters not exceeding ^oz. ; ten cents for ^ oz., and so on. Registering a letter costs twenty-five cents extra. Books, pictures, music, PUBLIC DEPARTMENTS. open to the public, free, on all week days, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. ]So smoking or conversation allowed. The average attendance of visitors does not exceed a dozen daily. The library was established by Moreno in 1810, but suffered afterwards to fall into decay. In 1822 there were 20,000 volumes, and in 1851 only 15,000. Since the latter date it has been much increased, and the publishers of all new works in the country have to present a copy. There is a complete collection of all newspapers published here and in Montevideo. The Chambers of the Legislature of Buenos Ayres have their principal entrance in Calle Peru, with a side entrance for the public in Calle Moreno, next the State Library. The Chamber is small but elegant, in the shape of an amphitheatre, dimly lighted from the roof. The President and Secre- taries of the Chamber sit on a raised bench, under which are the reporters. The galleries for the public give accommodation to 400 persons. The Senators and Deputies meet here alternately, and the Provincial Ministers attend when summoned. The ante-chambers are small and old-fashioned : here the members take mAte. There^s a suite of rooms occupied by clerks and officials. The Legislature is composed of twenty-fovr Senators and fifty Deputies, elected by the various partidos or electoral districts of the Province of Buenos Ayres, The Hall of Session was built in 1822, by Don Prospero Catelin, and repaired in 1864. It occupies the court^yard of the old Jesuit building, standing on the exact spot formerly occupied by the dungeon in which the followers of the famous cacique Tupac Amaru were confined after their attempted revolution in 1 780. topographic office, archives, COMMISS.IRIAT. The Topographic Department is in the premises formerly devoted to the Tribunal of Commerce, to which access is gained by a steep staircase from Calle Peru. This office was founded by Rivadavia in 1824, and is managed by Don Saturnino Salas and an efficient staff of civil engineers, comprising Messrs. German Kuhi', Pedro Benoit, Antonio Malaver, and Ignaclo Casagcmas. This department published in 1866 an admirable map — six feet by four and a-half — of the Province of Buenos Ayres, showing minutely every estancia and all the natural features of the various partidos. It also published in 1867 a similar map of the city and suburbs. The business of the office is to keep a correct register of the sub-divisions of property, to examine and approve afl surveys of land, to give licenses for building houses in town, and to make whatever charts, maps, or plans may be required by the authorities. It also serves as an academy for surveyors, STATE ARCHnTS AMD COMMISSARIAT. 23 who have to undergo a severe examination in the theory and practice of surveying before being allowed to practise their profession. The chief of the department has a salary of §6,000 a month. The Department of Schools adjoins the last-mentioned, and is under the charge of Don Manuel J. Peua. Here are deposited the supplies of boots and furniture for the State schools. After the fall of Rosas, in 1852, Dr. Vicente Fidel Lopez was named Minister of Instruction, and undertook to re-model the system of education: in October of same year the Department of Schools was established. Don Santiago Estrada is the present Inspector of Schools. The State Archives are in the same building, under the direction of Don Manuel R. Trelles, assisted by seven clerks: here are kept the valuable records of Buenos Ayres since the Conquest, which throw such light on the history of the Vice-royalty of La Plata and the neighboring countries of Spanish America. Important documents and title-deeds, which belong to Paraguay, Tucuman, the Cuyo provinces, and the Banda Oriental, still remain in this department. Sr. Trelles also publishes a half-yearly volume of statistics referring to the Province of Buenos Ayres : the information at his disposal is so defective, that his efforts are the more creditable. The contents of the archives are — 7,500 bundles of documents, 6,167 account- books, 8,700 printed books and pamphlets, and a number of periodicals. Since 1 857 Seflor Trelles has published twenty volumes of ancient records and statistical reports. The National Statistical Department^ situate at 64 Calle Be]grano,is under the direction of Mr. Damian Hudson ; this gentleman, who is eminently given toLavalle's army against Rosas. 5. Six per cents awarded by Congress for claims of indemnity. 6. The bonds and coupons given in payment of foreign claims for injuries sustained in the civil wars. 7. The petitions of the widows and relatives of Generals Lavalle, La Madrid, and Paz. The treasurer was to have charge of all funds for payment of coupons and amortization, but not to pay anything without written order from the chairman of the board. All coupons to be paid faithfully Avithin the €ight days fixed by law. The bonds were issued in five series, as follows: Serie A, $100 — • Serie B, S600— Serie C, $1,000— Serie D, 2,600— Serie E, $5,000, each having forty coupons annexed, one payable every quarter, and then burned- Whenever a coupon became payable it was necessary to present the whole Bond and have it compared with the corresponding block, which was cut zig-zag. Nevertheless a'great forgery was discovered in October, 1868, immediately after President Sarmiento entered office, whereby it appeared that duplicate bonds, signed by the proper authorities, had been regularly admitted and the coupons paid for some years back. It was concluded that in the signing of so many tliousand coupons several duplicates w ere introduced surreptitiously, and the parties suspected of the fraud were no longer in the country, nor was there any proof sufficiently inculpating anyone in particular. The Paraguayan war caused new loans and frequent emissions of Public Funds, all w hich are specified in the budget for 1 869 : see section A, page 191. The Provincial Credit Office, 91 Calle Moreno, was established in 1821. The board consists of six persons named by Government, and an accountant who has a salary of $4,000 a month. The accounts under their charge are as follows: — I. Original issue of six per cent. 28,000,000, and of four per cents. 2,000,000. 2. Issue of 10,000,000 six per cents in September 1856. 3. Issue of 12,000,000 six per cents in July 1358. All these sums are in the paper currency of Buenos Ayres and the annual interest amounts to 33,821,592m.c, or about £30,500 sterling, besides an amortization or sinking-fund of $630,000 m^ per annum, equivalent to one per cent. Until assumed by the National Treasury in 1864 there were two other debts at the charge of the Province, viz. : that of May 1 859, for 20,000,000 ; and of June 1861 for 24,000,000; the annual interest of both amounting 26 PUBLIC DEPARTMENTS. to S2,640,000m^, and the sinking-fund to §920,000. The English loan of 1826, to Buenos Ayres, was also a provincial debt until assumed by the nation in 1864. The CapUania, or Captain of the Port's office, is situate in Calle Mayo, opposite the English Church, with another entrance by Paseo Julio. The offices are open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. All foreign vessels arriving from beyond the seas have to send their Bill of Health before being allowed to communicate with the shore : the captains have also to declare on arrival what cargo they bring, to whom consigned, date of departure from home and arrival here ; if they bring passengers a list of same must be entered in the Capitania books, and any letters are handed over to the branch Post- office in this building. If the vessel be Argentine, or belonging to a flag that has no Consul here, all her papers must be lodged at the Capitania. The captains have also to report exactly on the condition of their vessels. Signal flags are used to communicate with the pontoon Castelli in the outer roads. The Capitania has a dungeon for refractory sailors: a guard is always mounted on the Paseo Julio entrance. Colonel Bustillos has a staff of twelve oflicials and thirty-six sailors, with three state barges: he has recently received jurisdiction over all the Capitanias of the Republic. The branch Post-office receives letters for Montevideo, &c., up to half an hour before sailing of steamer. For any matters before or after hours, apply at the Ayudantia, next the guard-house at the Paseo Julio. No one is allowed to gallop by the Capitania. MUMICIPALITY, LAW COURTS. • .I'jiiiiV , The. Municipality ^ ov Corporation, holds its meetings in a saloon over the Policia : its charter dates from October 1854, and it is composed of a President, thirteen members, and twenty-four «suplentes :» each parish furnishes a member, and the ((suplcntesw are elected to take his place in case of sickness or absence. The Minister of Interior is an ex-officio president, but never attends, the Provincial Government each year naming the Vice-President from among the members. There are two secretaries, eighteen clerks, and three servants. The revenue exceeds §12,000,000 per annum, and is spent in this manner: hospital and lunatic asylum, $2,000,000; serenos, &c., §2,000,000; schools, §1,000,000; scavenger carts, §1,000,000; clerks and fireworks, §1,000,000; paving, &c., §5,000,000. The items of income are— public lottery, §4,000,000; sereno tax, §2,000,000 ; market stalls, §1 ,000,000 ; mataderos, §1 ,000,000 ; COURTS OF LAW. 27 licenses, &c., $4,000,000. Foreigners are sometimes elected to serve on the Board, but they generally resign. The street lighting is done by the Gas Company; there are 1,722 lamps, for which the company levies payment at each house. In the suburbs there are 1,483 oil lamps, belonging to the Municipality. The neglected state of the city is unsusceptible of exaggeration, and each succeeding Board throws all the blame on the preceding one. The Corporation of 1868 was expelled by an indignation meeting of the citizens, who formed a Committee of Public Health in its room ; but the Board was reinstated by Government shortly afterwards. A better election of members is hoped for the year 1869. The Archbis}i02)''s Palace is a handsome two story edifice, next the Cathedral : the reception hall, in the upper story, is a magnificent apart- ment, with a bust of Pope Pius IX. and some pictures. The building was completed in April 1862, since when the Archbishop resides here, along with his secretary, chaplain, and three other clergymen. Cauf'ts of Law. — There are the ordinary Courts of Primera Instanciaia the Cabildo, where civil and criminal causes ire tried : attached to these Courts are the offices of the escribanos or notaries, for all judicial proceed- ings, transfer of property, &c. : most of the escribanias date back many years, and have records from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, being used as registry offices in all matters of assignment, mortgage, &c. The Tribunal of Commerce is next to the Topographic Department, in Calle Peru; its proceedings are guided by the «Codigo de Comercio» framed for Buenos Ayres. The Superior Tribunal of Justice is composed of ten judges, and sits in the Cabildo, to hear appeals from the ordinary civil, criminal, and commercial Courts : it has immediate jurisdiction over the Justices of Peace in the camp, and has a Fiscal or Attorney-General, two. reporters, a notary, and other employees. Each of the Judges has a salary of $6,000 a month. Every Saturday they visit the prisons, to see the prisoners and how their cases stand ; but the proceedings of this and the other Courts are so tedious that a reform is much called for. The «Code of the Indies,)) and other obsolete Spanish statutes, were hitherto the sole system of procedure ; but some new codes have been compiled and will shortly be adopted. In the camp there are three tribunals ; one at San Nicolas, north ; one at Mercedes, west ; and one at Dolores, south : these are often badly attended to, as there are few lawyers in town willing to take such responsibility for a poor remuneration. The High Court of Justice is one of the supreme powers of the State, viz. : the Executive, Legislative, and Judicial, and the Govern- ment cannot interfere in its affairs, which secures to the tribunal perfect liberty of action. The public never attend the hearing of lawsuits, and 28 PUBLIC DEPARTMENTS. formerly the proceedings were altogether secret : by decree of November ' !l2, 1868, President Sarmiento has ordered the Fiscal to publish all suits in one of the daily papers. There is no trial by jury, unless in cases of press prosecution for sedition or libel. Witnesses usually give their depositions in writing, instead of orally, The President of the High Court has juris- diction in cases of Protestants seeking a marriage license. The Supreme Federal Court adjoins the Provincial Government-house, in Galle Bolivar : it was established in 1863, and consists of five Judges. All matters in which foreigners are concerned, either against the Government or private parties, or questions between any of the Federal provinces, are finally decided by this Court, to which, also, there is appeal from all other tribuiials. Academy of Jurisprudence, founded January 16th 1815, by Manuel A. Castro. The institute is under the direction of the High Court of Justice, and meets twice a week at the University, where lectures and imaginary lawsuits take place. The students must have already taken their degree as Doctor of Laws, and cannot practise at their profession till after two years attendance at the Academy. The session is from March to November. The average number of students is thirty -five. There are 120 advocates in Buenos Ayres. BOARD OF HEALTri, LOTTERY, CITY PRISONS. Facility of Medicine, founded in 1852, by Drs. Fernandez, Montesdeoca, r^'Alvarez, Albarellos, Garcia, Muiliz, Cuenca, Gomez, and Ortiz Velez, The 'board at present consists of eight professors, eight substitutes, and a secretary, and resides at 53 Calle Corrientes : the studies comprise — clinical surgery, operations, midwifery, diseases of women and children, materia medica, therapeutics, pharmacology, hygiene, nosography, pathology, anatomy, medical jurisprudence, physiology, &c. The term of studies is for six years, the only degree given being that of M.D. foreign practi- tioners, although having diplomas from European universities, are not allowed to practise without previous examination of the Faculty of Medicine, and in this their chief difiiculty will be the Spanish language. The academical year begins on 1st March ; the examinations commence on December 1st, after which there is vacation. The school of medicine is opposite San Telmo church, and was bnilt in 1858 out of the proceeds of fines levied from foreign physicians, apothecaries, midwives, and bleeders. There are two large lecture rooms, a library, a school of pharmacy and natural history, and a small museum ; 'besides the grand hall for the conferring of degrees. EMIGRA.1ST HOME. 29 Vaccination and Board of Healthy situate next the Provincial Chambers in Calle Peru. The first vaccinator in Buenos Ayres was the Rev. Saturnino Segurola, and in 1821 Rivadavia established the department, subject to certain municipal regulations. The annual number of vaccinations in town at the «yacuna)) offices is about 2,000. Besides the head office in Calle Peru, there are branches in Calles Defensa, Santa Fe, and Santiago del Estero ; office hours 12 to 2 in winter, 5 to 7 in summer. The Board of Health was created in 1852, and is supposed to watch over the public health, inspect markets and private houses, &c. : this is merely imaginary and the Board has no real existence. Emigrants^ Home, situate No. 8 Calle Corrientes, under the direction of Mr. Van Bartels, provides board and lodging gratis for distressed immi- grants, until they find employment. It is supported partly by the National Government and partly by subscription, but not more than 5 per cent, of immigrants seek its refuge. The expense of the institution amounts to about £1 ,000 per annum. The first immigration committee was established in this city in 1824. Lottery of the KBeneficencia,n situate at 168 Calle Bolivar, was established in its present form in 1852, but the institution existed many years before as a source of public revenue. It produces at present about §5,000,000 m^ per annum, in weekly and monthly lotteries: the weekly has a prize of $120,000, the monthly $300,000, the prizes being publicly drawn and then published. Of the total receipts 75 per cent, is given in prizes, 10 per cent.' goes in expenses, and the rest (15 per cent.) is devoted to the charitable institutions under care of the Municipality. Public Lands Office, in the Government-house, Calle Moreno, established in 1859, open daily from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Information may be obtaified for soliciting land «in enfiteusis,» renting Government lands, or buying same. City Prisons. — There are three : that under the Cabildo is the principal, and is guarded by a company of soldiers expressly raised by the Provincial Government ; formerly the National Guards of the city had to perform this irksome service. The prisoners are allowed to see their friends on Sundays and Thursdays. The Debtors' prison is in Calle Moreno, behind San Francisco church : persons guilty of misdemeanors are also confined here ; visiting days as above. There is another prison called the Penitenciaria near San Telmo ; but a proper jail is much needed, the escape of prisoners being at present a frequent occurrence. 30 PUBLIC DEPARTMENTS. MUSEUM AWi) UNIVERSITY. The Museum of Buenos Ayres is, perhaps, the richest in the world in ante- diluvian fossil remains, and in late years it has been carefully managed by the distinguished German savant^ Professor Burmeister. It is situate in Calle Peru, corner of Calle Potosi, opposite the Old Market. Rivadavia was the founder of the Museum (December 31, 1823), and it first occupied the upper story of Santo Domingo monastery. During the rule of Rosas it was much neglected, the only valuable collection being 736 mineral specimens brought from France. In 1854 the Society of Natural History of the Plate was formed, and donations quickly poured in from all quarters. M. Bravard (afterwards lost in the earthquake of Mendoza) lent good assistance; and in February 1862, President Mitre, through the Prussian Minister, Baron von Gulich, induced Dr. Burmeister to give up the museum of Halle and come out to take charge of that of our city. Under the present director it has undergone complete reform, and a saloon forty yards long, with three other apartments, is appropriated for the institution. In classifying the objects of exhibition, Dr. Burmeister divides them under' three heads : artistic, historical and scientific. There is no work of art of any merit, but only some drawings or copies of pictures executed by students sent to Florence and Rome at the expense of the National Government; also a few portraits of distinguished individuals, which serve for curiosities. In the historic section are — three Egyptian mummies supposed to be about 4,000 years old, some Peruvian vases prior to the Spanish conquest, with gold and silver idols and some mummies: these Indian sepulchres are also found in San Juan, Rioja, and Gatamarca, and Sefior Lozana has presented two Peruvian mummies to the museum. The collection of coins numbers 4 1 5 from the time of Pompey to xintoninus Pius : it was purchased in France for £2i0 sterling. There are twenty- two enamelled pictures of the conquest of Mexico ; supposed artist Miguel Gonzales ; it was presented by Mr. Mackinlay. The standard of Juan de Garay used at the foundation of Buenos Ayres, with two old swords of that date. Among modern relics is the writing desk of Rivadavia and his coffin, General Lavalle's sword, and the ornamental wheel-barrow of the Southern railway inauguration; also an infernal machine used to attempt the assassination of Rosas. The most valuable collection is that of natural science, comprising zoological specimens of the present time and ante- diluvian fossils of animals no longer [known on earth. M. Bravard counts fifty specimens of the latter found in Buenos Ayres. We have a complete «Megatherium,)) presented by Dr. Muiiiz, the hind-part of a aMylodon' THE MUSEUM. 3£- robustus» found by Dr. Burmeister near the Rio Salado, and three kinds of «Mylodoutes,)) besides a wScelidotherium)) ; a complete «Glyptodon)) presented by Don David Lanata, the head of a «Toxydou,)) and the fossil- teetli of an ante-diluvian horse from the Salado. The «mammiferi» comprise sixty-eight kinds in 110 specimens, of which forty belong to the San 3Iartin collection recently purchased in France : the most important is the «Pichi-ciego» or ((Chamyphorus retusus.)) There are 1,500 bird specimens of 500 different kinds : one half from the San Martin collection, the rest from Europe, Brazil, and the provinces. The fish and amphibious specimens are of little value. The insects comprise a splendid variety of Brazilian butterflies, which cannot however be exposed to the light, but are kept in a dark room. In Botany we have samples of the beautiful woods of Paraguay, and an «herbarium,)) of European plants imported from France. There is a valuable case of minerals from, Chile, presented by the late Mr. Harratt ; a box of geological strata perforated in Messrs. Bordeaux's artesian well of Barracas ; a fossil willow trunk presented by Senor Pedriel. In the portico of the Museum may be seen an extraor- dinary wooden anchor, mounted with lead : this belonged to the Vermejo expedition of Mr. Cheney Hickman, who descended that river in 1852, but died of dysentery on the voyage and was buried on the Gran Chaco shore. There are also sundry fragments of a fossil whale, which reminds us that such remains have been found as far inland as Parana city, 500 miles from the ocean, at a depth of sixty feet in the barranca or bluff. Dr. Burmeister has published a scientific dissertation on Palaeontology, with special reference to the aute-diluAlan treasures of Buenos Ayres, and complimen- tary allusions to the English geologists Lyell, Darwen, Owen, and others ; also an essay on «Patagonian Macraucheuia,)) illustrated with four handsome designs by the ill-fated Bravard. Bespecting the Picaflor, or humming-bird, he gives eleven classes as inhabitants of the River Plate and Paraguay, although Azara reduces the number to six. He has also an essay on «Glyptodontes,)) the most abundant fossOs found in the country. Dr. Burmeister is member of twenty-six different literary societies, including' some of the highest in Great Britain and ]\orth America. Valuable acquisitions are made from time to time, whenever the Government can supply Dr. Burmeister with funds for the purpose. In June 1867 a complete fossil monster called «Glyptodon Tuberculatus» was found near Villa Mercedes and purchased for §15,000. About the same time was bought a collection of eighty-seven stuffed birds and animals from M. Chanalet, for the sum of §35,000 m^. The total collection in the Museum may be summed up thus : zoological specimens 1 ,620, samples of mine- 32 PUBLIC DEPARTMENTS. ralogy 1,030, coins 2,120, objects of antiquity and fine arts 30. The Museum is open, free of charge, on all Sundays and holidays between the hours of 10 and 2. The University of Buenos Ayres adjoins the Museum, also forming part of the block originally built by the Jesuits. It Avas founded on August 9th, 1821, by Governor Rodriguez, and his Minister, Rivadavia. The solemn inauguration took place on the 12th of same month in the College-church, Dr. Antonio Suarez being sworn in as first Rector. The premises were used as a barrack until very recently. It is at present under the direction of Dr. Juan Maria Gutierrez, a distinguished scholar, and the staff of professors is equally respectable. The studies embrace the usual classic and scientific courses, besides modern languages, and degrees are given in theology, law, and medicine. There is a library for the students, comprising over 2,000 works, presented by the rector and other donors. A complete chemical apparatus, with electric battery, &c. has been recently brought out from Italy. PUBLIC SCHOOLS. The Coleyio Nacional, formerly the Jesuit College, has spacious premises adjoining the Church of San Ignacio. Up to 1863 it was used as an Ecclesiastical Seminary, under the direction of Rev. Dr. Aguero and Canon Aneiros, and contained ninety students. General Mitre's Government converted it into a Head Grammar School for all the Argentine provinces, confiding its management to Messrs. Jacques and Cosson : each province is allowed to send a certain number of boys for education, with board and lodging gratis. The sphere of studies is analogous to that of the University. There are two city Model Schools: that called Catedral al Norte, in Calle Reconquista, was begun in May 1859 by public subscription, and solemnly inaugurated by the Governor of Buenos Ayres, President Derqui, and General Urquiza, on May 26th, 1860, the Children of the schools assisting to the number of 8,000. Thebuilding is tasteful and commodious ; the school-rooms are spacious, and well furnished with maps and books. Besides the ordinary classes, there is one of pupil-teachers in training as municipal school-masters. The branches of education are, science, modern languages, drawing, music, &c. The Model School of Catedral al Sur, was the first in these countries, having been originated by Don Domingo Sarmiento, then Director of Schools, and inaugurated on April 28th, 1858. The first beard of Directors was composed of Messrs. Roque CITY SCHOOLS. 33 Perez, Elizalde, Casares, Garcia, Toledo, Iraola, Billinghurst, Castro, and Pereyra: the funds were mostly raised by subscription. The premises adjoin the Provincial Government-house at the corner of Moreno and Perii, having been ceded by the Legislature for this express purpose : there are three large halls and others smaller, capable of accommodating 300 pupils. More than 1,000 youths have been educated here in the last eleven years, and a large proportion of these afterwards passed through the University. The studies include — Latin, English, French, German, mathematics, history, geography, drawing, music, and gymnastics. At first there was uo charge for pupils, the institute being supported by voluntary subscription, but it became necessary to alter this, and the following scale of fees now rules — boarders, $500; externs, $100; externs with breakfast, $150 per month. The Municipality maintains tliirty free schools, for boys and girls, in the various city parishes and suburbs, which are attended by about 2,000 children of all ranks in society. The masters receive a salary of $2,000 a month, assistants S^^^O, and mistresses $1,300 (besides which the children's parents usually give them something). The expenditure entailed by these schools is set down at $834,000 per annum. The Department of Schools was established in 1852, under the direction of Dr. Barros Pazos, then rector of the University : in 1855 it was entrusted to Don Domingo Sarmiento, who established in five years as many as seventy public schools. There are at present 142 municipal and state schools in the city and province of Buenos Ayres, at which 8,000 children are educated. There are also 125 private schools in the city ; the best of these are English, at which the usual fees are, for boarders $500, externs $100 a month. The Sociedad de Beneficencia, composed of charitable ladies, has charge of seventeen free schools for girls in the city, and forty-five in the country districts. The Diocesan Seminary, directed by the Be V. Canon Brid, is situate in Calle V^ictoria, close to the English cemetery. The Jesuit College in Calle Parque, corner of Callao, is a large building with grounds covering the whole «cuadra.)) There is another lay college at the Balvanera, directed by French priests who are called Padres Bayoneses. Besides the day schools in connection with the English, Scotch, American, and German churches, there are boarding- schools attached to the Irish convent, Calle Bio Bamba, and the French convent, Calle Cochabamba ; also a day school kept by French nuns in Calle Bivadavia. Q 34 CHURCHES AND INSTITUTIONS. CHAP. lY. CHURCHES AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. CHURCHES. The city is divided into eleven parishes, and contains some fine churches. Besides the Cathedral, there are fifteen churches, six chapels of ease, and four Protestant churches. The Cathedral is situate in Plaza Victoria, \s ith a massive colonnade and fine front. Its dimensions are spacious, rendering it one of the grandest temples in this continent. Don Juan de Garay, in 1550, first marked out the site, and there is a tradition that the first bricks made in the country ■were devoted to this church. The Jesuits commenced a larger structure in 1621, but it fell in A.D. 1752, and was rebuilt by the architect Rocha, in the form that now exists, excepting the facade, in 1822 Senor Catellin was entrusted with the completion of the work, but this was paralysed during forty yeats of civil war, being only finished in 1862. The interior is imposing, the nave presenting a brilliant spectacle on feast days, when cro>Yded with a congregation numbering some thousands, and the roof hung Avith flags taken in the wars against Spain and Brazil. The high altar stands nearly under the dome, which, with the cupola, rises to a height of 130 feet. There are twelve chapels in the aisles, possessing little in the ■way of fine arts. A proper organ is much wanted, and the choir is inferior. The Archbishop's throne is on the right of the high altar ; the seats for the canons are of carved wood. The sacristy and baptistery are beyond the CITY CHURCHES. 35 right transept, and have a few paintings ; one was a picture of merit and an artist took it away, leaving the copy in its stead. This side of the church communicates with the episcopal palace. The Archbishop officiates on all great feasts: the last Mass on Sundays and holidays is at 1p.m. On the left side, are the halls for use of the Chapter, and here are the portraits of all the prelates from Dr. Carranza down to Bishop Medrano, eighteen in number. Four were natives of Buenos Ayres (including the brotliers Arregui), five never took possession of the sea, and six Avcre removed or died abroad. On May 12th, 1G22, Fray Pedro de Carranza, Bishop of La Plata and Apostolic commissioner, raised this church to the rank of cathedral, and Avas its first prelate. In 186G the see was created an archbisliopric, under Dr. Mariano Escalada. The chapter consists of nine canons and four honorary canons ; besides ten chaplains, and a dozen choristers and sacristans. The Merced^ at the corner of Calles Cangallo and Beconquista, was built in 1768, and had formerly a convent of nuns attached. The convent is now in charge of the Sociedad de Benelicencia, who use it as an orphanage: an annual bazaar is held for its support, the articles of needle- work being admirable. The church tower is used as a city observatory. San lynacio, corner of Bolivar and Potosi, is usually called the College church, because formerly belonging to the Jesuits, whose college was alongside. Although the Jesuit order was expelled in 1767, they are still allowed to keep schools in Buenos Ayres ; but their college has long been expropriated by the State, and is now a secular school, with a good staff of professors. The exterior of the church is very line, with two lofty turrets : the interior is rather sombre. Sati Francisco, corner of Potosi and Defensa, belongs to the Franciscan monastery, and is remarkable for richness of decoration. The first mention of Franciscans in this city is about the year 1594, and it seems their convent was established in IGOi. In the suppression of religious orders, in 1822, this community escaped ; but the convents of the same order at the Recoleta and San Pedro were suppressed. The community now consists of thirty mendicant iriars. The sacristy possesses some curious old pictures. The cloisters and corridors are finely vaulted. San Roque is a chapel of ease, adjoining San Francisco, and set apart for the especial use of Irish residents. Canon Fahy, or another of the Irish clergy, celebrates MasS; and preaches in English, every Sunday at 11 a.m. Santo Domingo, corner of Defensa and Belgrano, has a large nave, with aisles : the high altar and side chapels are richly gilt. The Dominican convent has a prior and twenty mendicant friars. It was established in Q2 36 CITY CHURCHES. 1591, and suppressed in 1822; but, in 1835, Fray Inchaurregui received permission from Government to re-establish the order. Tliis church preserves rare and valuable trophies, which are hung from the dome on certain feast days : they consist of four English Hags taken from Whitclocke's army in 1807 — an artillery, a royal marine, and two infantry flags. In one of the belfry towers are seen twenty-four cannon shot, thrown by the English fleet from the roadstead, on the same occasion. Some of the Dominicans are very able preachers : this church is also remarkable for the splendor of its ceremonials and processions. Sa7i Tebiio, Calles Defensa and Coraercio, dedicated to the patron of sailors, is a small church on a high point overlooking the roadstead : a new belfry was erected last year. Adjacent to the church are the 3Ien's Hospital and the Residencia Lunatic Asylum. The neighborhood, during the time of Hosas, was known as «Barrio del Alto,» and bore a bad name. The Concepcion, adjoining Plaza Independencia, is a new church, from designs by Padre Marin. It remained unfinished for some years owing to the roof having fallen in, when some workmen were killed, in 1860. Santa Catalina^ in Calle Brazil, is a chapel of ease, built in 18G0, in pursuance of a pious testament, with schools attached. San Juan, Calles Potosi and Piedras, is attached to a convent of Capuchin nuns : the order was established here in 1749, by five nuns Avho came from Chile ; the convent was first situate close to the church of San Nicolas, but afterwards removed to the present spacious premises. The order was excepted in the decree of suppression, in 1822, and has now tiiirty-six nuns, who live by alms and a small pension from Government. There are, however, some ladies of fortune among the community. The convent has a large garden, covering almost the entire block, in a very valuable situation. The church is attended by French priests. Our Ladij of Monserrat, adjoining the Plaza of the same name, is a handsome new church. The parish is reputed very rich, and the interior of the edifice is elegant and tasteful. Las Salinas is the name of a chapel situate in Calles Victoria and Sarandi, attached to the Archbishop's college : the latter is under the direction of Canon Brid, andastaff of professors, indudingthe Rev. Mr. Dillon. Another chapel is in construction in General Guido's quinta, Calle Potosi, by the Italian residents. San Miguel, Calles Suipacha and Piedad, stands in the highest part of the city, and an extensive view is obtained from the belfry. There is a statue of Saint Michael over the entrance. An orphanage was at first attached to this church, and the Jesuit printing-press, from Cordova, was devoted to THE IRISH CONVENT. 37 its support. The orphanage is now attached to the Merced. Sati Miguel was founded in 1727 by Don Juan Alonzo Gonsalez, during the prevalence of a great plague in which the corpses were removed for interment by being tied to the horses' tails. Gonsalez was a native of Cadiz, and after his wife's death became a priest, bringing the first convent of Catalinas nuns from Tucuman to settle in this city. His son succeeded him as director of the Institute of Charity of San Miguel, which was suppressed in 1822,: the second Gonsalez died in 1801, and there is a tasteful marble slab to his memory on the right of the altar. San Nicolas de Bari, Calles Corrientes and Artes, is the favorite church of Italians, but has nothing of artistic merit calling for notice. The belfry has a public clock. La Piedad is a small parish-church at the corner of Calles Piedad and Parana. In the neighbourhood is a remarkable pine-tree, 100 feet high. La Balvanera is a fine edifice, near the Plaza Once de Setiembre, with a college attached, under the charge of some French clergymen. El Socorro^ near the Plaza Retiro, is small and unpretending. Close to it is a garden that was formerly the British cemetery, until 1812, when Mr. Harratt purchased the present site in Calle Victoria. Las Monjas, corner of Temple and San Martin, is a small church of some antiquity, attached to the convent of Dominican nuns, called Catalinas, whose order is very strict. The convent was founded in 1744 and was excepted from the suppression of 1822. There are forty nuns, each of whom at entering brings a small dowry ; for the rest they depend on public charity : their garden occupies the whole block. The military of the Retiro attend Mass here on Sundays. The Irish Convent of Sisters of Mercy is situate at the corner of Calles Rio Bamba and Tucuman ; it has a chapel, schools, and hospital, under the patronage of St. Joseph. The community has its origin from Baggot Street Convent, Dublin. The first sisters were brought out by Father Fahy, in February 1856, under the superioress. Mother Mary Evangelist Fitzpa trick. They were first established in Calle Cangallo, till, in 18G1, their country- men built for them the present elegant structure. The community consists of about twenty sisters, of whom one-half are daughters of Irish sheep- farmers here resident. Tliey make the tliree usual vows of poverty, chastity, and obedience, and a fourth for the service of the poor and sick. Their principal task, however, is the education of seventy boarders, the daughters of Irish estancieros, who pay £.30 a year pension ; and the gratuitous instruction of 200 poor native children of the neighborhood. They also feed, clothe, and instruct a limited number of orphans. The 38 PROTESTANT CHURCHES. boarders are taught English, French, Spanish, music, and needlework : no children are admitted under five, or over fifteen, years of age ; they wear a uniform, and are allowed to see their friends on Sundays and holidays, between the hours of 10 a.m. and 5 p.m. The halls, play ground, &c., are spacious, and the chapel is very neat. The convent covers an area of two acres, or half a cuadra, and the northern wing consists of a hospital for sick and distressed Irish. Tiie sisters also visit the sick of the neighbor- hood. They receive no subsidy from the State, each of the nuns having her own dowry on entering. The rules of the order were sanctioned by Gregory XVI., in 1841, and the Sisters of Mercy have now numerous establishments in Ireland, United States, and Australia. The Bccoleta, dedicated to Our Lady of Pilar, is attached to the city cemetery, about two miles from Plaza Victoria. The church and convent were built by the Franciscans in 1720, at an outlay of £4,000 sterling. There is a tradition that the site had been sold for a suit of clothes. The convent was suppressed in 1822, and in 1858 the building was taken for a Poor As}lum. There are four Protestant churches ; the English, Scotch, American, and German. The English Church, near the corner of Calles Mayo and Cuyo, is a hand- some and commodious structure, capable of accommodating about 700 persons. The treaty of 1 825 guaranteed Protestants the fullest religious liberty, and the Argentine Government had the generosity to cede this site gratis for an English church, and for the last forty years a chaplain has been attached at the expense of the British Government. Previous to that date (1827) the Protestants assembled for Divine service in a private room, where the Foreign Club now stands. The present chaplain is the Rev. J. Chubb Ford, a graduate of one of the English universities. Divine service is held every Sunday at /I I a.m., and in the evening. Two pews, marked A and B, are set apart for ship captains. The new organ presented by Mr. Lumb is a splendid instrument, and cost £500. Attached to the church are the English parochial schools, attended by about 100 children of both sexes, and under the ciiarge of Professor Ryan. Tiie Scotch Church is in Calle Piedras, near Calle Rivadavia, and of the same simple architecture as usually characterises Presbyterian houses of prayer. It was built in 1838, at a cost of £7,000, and has seats for 300 persons. The first Scotch colony came to Buenos Ayresin 1827 with the Messrs. Robertson, and their countrymen now number over 2,000 in the camp and town. There are two Scotch chapels, at San Vicente and Chascomus, with resident clergymen, and the British Government allows • THE RECOLETA CEMETERY. 39 a subsidy for their maintenance. The first chaplain was the late Rev. "W. Brown, D.D., whose successor is Rev. James Smith, deservedly popular among men of all persuasions. Divine service every Sunday at 1 1 a.m. and 7 p.m. : there is a fine choir. The Scotch school was founded in 1812, and has been successively managed by Mr. Ray, Rev. Dr. Brown, Rev. J. Smith, Mr. Ramsay, and Mr. Augustus Powell : the last-named gentleman has directed it already thirteen years, on the Glasgow normal training system : the average attendance is sixty pupils, and the curriculum includes English, French, Spauish, Latin, &c. The school-room is spacious and sometimes used for lectures. The American, or Methodist Church, is in Calle Cangallo, opposite the Hotel du Provence ; it holds about 300 persons, but the congregation intends providing a better chapel. The actual incumbent is Rev. Mr. Goodfellow, of the American Missionary Society, who has initiated a system of children's lectures on moral training. There is a Sunday school, the children of which have a grand annual fete. Several tracts on religious subjects are distributed by the curate. Divine service on Sundays 1 1 a.m. ; also in the afternoon. The German, or Lutheran Church, is in Calle Esmeralda, between Piedad and Cangallo. It has a pretty Gothic facade and porch, and holds about 300 persons ; it was built in 1847 by the German residents, and is almost too small for the present congregation. The chaplain is the Rev. Mr. Gehrke, who has also charge of the schools attached. Divine service at 1 1 a.m. and 7 P.M. on Sundays. The choir is the best in the city. The architect was the late Mr. Taylor. CEMETERIES. The Rccoleta Cemetery is much too small, covering only ten acres ; here the inhabitants of the city have been interred for three centuries. Some of the tombs are grand and costly, but the place is so crowded that they appear to no advantage. The place is very much neglected, and the practise of disinterring remains after a certain number of years is a violation of the most hallowed associations. Rich persons by paying fifty years purchase are guaranteed against removal. Poor people can buy graves for five years, at prices varying from $10 to $100m,{j, ac^iording to locality. The mausoleum of Bernardino Rivadavia, the illustrious statesman of 18'28, is the finest, and stands in the central avenue. Opposite to it is a monument which will call the special attention of Englishmen, as it marks the resting-place of a valiant countryman, the 40 CITY CEMETERIES. famous Admiral Brown. On a flight of marble steps, covering the vault wherein are deposited the remains of the gallant admiral and his wife, rises the base of the structure, the principal portion of which measures 4ft. by 5ft. and the upper 3|ft. by 3|ft. The main shaft is 12ft."high, with a Corinthian capital bearing a naval trophy of gilt bronze 5ft. high : total height from the ground, 28ft. 6in, Upon the base are well executed <(relievos» of the following naval engagements:' — 11th June, 30th June, Juncal and Emperatriz ; also the arms of the Republic, initials of the deceased, and a graceful epitaph bordered with wreaths of shamrocks. A band encircles the column, upon which is the inscription «Guillermo BroAvn.w Springing from the leaves of the capital is the trident, and surmounting all a trophy of «rostra.)) The total cost was $40,000, about £300, and the site was given by Government. The Avhole of the work was executed in Buenos Ayres, from designs by P. Beare, G.E. : the castings weighed over five tons and were made in the establishment of F. CaruUa. Tlie epitaph, translated from the Spanish, is as follows : — WILLIAM BROWN, BOR?J ON THE 22kD JUNE, 1777, AT FOXFORD, COUNTY MAYO, IRELAND- OF BRITISH ORIGIN, BUT ARGENTINE BY HIS SERVICES. He commanded in chief the first fleet in the War of Independence j bringing glory and triumph to our flag^ A.'D. 1814, destroying the Spanish navies at Martin Garcia and Montevideo. Sweeping the Pacific Ocean and Caribbean Sea from 1815 to 1818. The ports of Callao and Guayaquil witnessed his prowess under the Argentine banner , on January 20, and February 1, 1816. The sun that shone on Februarg 9, June 11, and July 29, 1826, in the waters of La Plata ^ and on February 9, 1827, in the River Uruguay, beheld the vessels of the Republic confided to Admiral Broivn crowned with victory in supporting the Independence of the Sister State. He died like a true Christian, on the night, of May 3, 1857, surrounded by his family, overshadowed by his great name, and at the ripe age of eighty years, having consecrated his life to naval glory. His Widow dedicates this Monument to his memory, and asks from all brave and grateful men a Remembrance and a Prayer. R. LP. THE ENGLISH CEMETERY. 4t The monuments of the Typographic Society and the Spanish Charitable Association are handsome edifices. Not far hence is a stone with the inscription (cSeilor Alvarez, assassinated by his friends!)) Besides the natives there are numerous Irish and French buried in the Recoleta. On the north side, against the convent wall, is a marble slab to the memory of the first Irish priest who came to Buenos Ayres, some forty years ago. Kear the entrance-gate are the monuments of Colonel Brandsen, who fell in the battle of Ituzaingo, A.D. 1827, and Captain Meyer, killed in the civil war of 1864. Besides tliis cemetery another has been recently opened in the south end, near the Convalecencia. Tihe, English Cemetery — About the year 1821 the English residents in this city obtained from the Government a general charter in due form for the establishment of a Protestant Cemetery. A short time afterwards a small plot of ground was purchased near the Socorro Church, which for several years was used as their burial-ground; its dimensions were, however, soon found insufiicient, and in the year 1832 Mr. John Harratt purchased the present site, and transferred this ownership to the British community of Buenos Ayres. It is situate at the corner of Calles Victoria and Pasco, about a mile and a quarter from Plaza Victoria, covering a «manzana)) of 150 yards square, nicely planted and walled in. There is a neat mortuary chapel, in the centre, and the tombs are of varied taste and nationalities, including all classes of Protestants. The Germans have a quarter to themselves, and English, Scotch, and Americans occupy the rest. There are some very sad mementos, such as naval officers accidentally drowned in port, and persons killed in civil commotions. The visitor, may pause at the grave of Mr. Priestly who w as shot at his own door in a street-riot, or at those of Mr. Mason and General Asboth, late American Ministers for the United States. There is a touching record in a tablet, near the entrance, to the memory of Mr. Taggart, an American resident, who was drowned in rescuing some ladies from drowning in the Lujan river. ]Xo coffin is allowed to be laid at less than eight feet from the surface, and the great majority of the coffins are lined with lead. Nevertheless there is an agitation to close up the cemetery and oblige the Protestant residents to take a new site further out of town. A municipal decree has been passed to this effect. HOSPITALS. Few cities are better supplied than ours with institutions for the relief of the sick. The Municipality maintains two hospitals, for men and women, 42 CITY HOSPITALS. ♦ irrespective of creed or nationality. There are also the English, French, Italian and Irish hospitals, and the Sanitary Institute : this last is one of the finest establishments in South America. The Men's Hospital was founded by Don Juan de Garay under the patronage of St. Martin, a block of ground being marked out for the purpose in the distribution of the city. A building was commenced in 161 1, and from that time the accounts of the establishment were submitted regularly to the Cabildo, till 1748 : in this year the Bethlamite monks took charge of the hospital, and when their order was suppressed the establishment passed into the hands of Government. It was directed by a Philanthropic Society from 1828 to 1833, after which Rosas supported it by a subvention of gl 2)000, till the French blockade, when he suppressed it altogether as unnecessary : he, however, allowed it to be re-opened by several charitable persons in 1848, allowing a subvention of §15,000 per annum, till his fall, in 1852. Since then it has been maintained by the Municipality at a cost of nearly ^2, 000,000 per annum. It is situate at the corner of Callcs Comercio and Balcarce, and is attended by twenty French Sisters of Charity, who treat the patients with the utmost kindness and care. The physicians are ordered to prescribe wines, delicacies, &c. ad libitum for those who require it. Old and infirm people have also an asylum here and are allowed a little pocket-money for tobacco and yerba. The average number of patients is over 4,000 yearly, of which eleven per cent. die. The proportion of nationalities is — Argentines 42, Italians 13," Spaniards 11, French 8, Germans G, English 2, other nations 18 per cent. The average cost of a patient is $10 a day. The officials comprise — an administrator, two clerks, a chaplain, six physicians, nine medical students, and three apothecaries. The establishment also comprises a military hospital, and one for sick convicts. The Women's Hospital, under the patronage of St. IV^ichael, was established in 1743, by Padre Juan Alonzo Gonsalez and a Confraternity of Charity, with accommodation for ten patients. In 1784 the house was much enlarged, and again in 1823, when it passed under the charge of the Sociedad de Beneficencia, which association of benevolent ladies still directs its management. The hospital is under the care of fourteen Sisters, callea Daughters of Mary, brought from Italy in 1859 : the mother house and noviciate is in Montevideo, where these nuns have charge of the Caridad Hospital The order was first established in Italy in 1829, for caring the sick and teaching children : there are branch houses at Santa F6, Bosario, and Cordoba. The Women's hospital is at No. 26 Calle Esmeralda, and it has often been proposed to remove it from so central THE BRITISH HOSPITAL. 43 a locality lo the suburbs, but there are no funds to build a new one. The Sisters receive a trifling pension of $200 a month. There are 200 beds, the average number of patients admitted being 800 per annum, of which 27 per cent. die. The oflicials include a chaplain, three physicians, one student, an apothecary, and seven nurses. The total annual expenditure is about 3500,000ni(;. It is very usual with wealthy citizens or estancieros to leave donations to this and to the Men's Hospital. The British Hospital is a fine, airy, commodious structure, standing at the southern extremity of the city, on a high ground, known as Horn's hill, with a pleasant prospect. It was built in 1859 at a cost of £3,000, the British Government contributing one-half. A bazaar was held at Colon theatre in October 1859, which almost redeemed all the debt, and in 1862 the American Circus of Spalding and Rogers gave a benefit which realized £500 : a marble slab has been put up in one of the corridors in gratitude for the same. For the last few years an amateur English Dramatic Club has given annual performances Avith signal success, at the Victoria theatre, in aid of the hospital. The local subscriptions also amount to about £600 per annum. There are two wards, one for opulent patients at §50, the other for humbler classes at §20 per diem. Patients are admitted gratis when certified to be distressed British subjects. The resident surgeon, Robert Reid,Esq.,M.D., is a gentleman of acknowledged talent and success, and the returns of patients, operations, &c., are most favorable. In 1867 ashed was erected in front of the hospital, west view, for the reception of fever patients. During the cholera of the following year the institute did good service, no fewer than 72 cases having been admitted, of which more than one-half were discharged cured. The matron, Mrs. Blues, died of the epidemic. The Expenses of the hospital are about $250,000 per annum: the receipts for the years 1865-67 (not including §97, .361 from the Amateur Dramatic benefits) were as follows : — 1565, 1866. 1867. Subscriptions, .... §128,871 .... $92,112 .... $78,248 Donations, .... 12,070 .... 20,585 .... 2,500 Visitors, .... 2,210 .... 1,247 .... 1,000 Fees, 97,064 .... 91,325 .... 150,527 $240,215 $205,269 $232,275 Comparative expenditure in meat, groceries, bread, milk, &c. : — $133,747 ... $121,454 ....• $133,340 >'umber of patients, 459 462 522 Cost of each, .... $590 .... $520 .... $464 44 , CITY HOSPITALS. A large proportion of tlie patients is made up of sailors and distressed British subjects, -which causes a considerable deficit, that has to be defrayed by local subscription. Before 1859 the British Hospital ^Yas situate in very confined premises in Calle Indepeudencia. The committee is composed of H.B. M. Consul, the English and Scotch chaplains, and five subscribers annually elected. The French Hospital is in Calle Libertad, half a cuadra from the plaza of that name. It -was established in 18G2, and placed in charge of four Sisters of Charity brought out from Trance for the institution. A bazaar was held at the Club del Plata in 1864, which produced a handsome amount for the hospital. There is a very neat chapel, consecrated in 1863, and a com- pounding department, besides accommodation fer thirty-five sick people. During the cholera these pious daughters of St. Vincent de Paul rendered great assistance to the poor, and the Superioress fell a victim to the epidemic. During the Paraguayan Avar they have also attended the military hospitals, both in this city and at Corrientes. The French Hospital is supported by subscription. The Italian Hospital was begun by Count Cerutti, Italian Minister, in 1858 : owing to lack of subscriptions the works were suspended for a time, but resumed by Count La Ville, Italian Consul, in 1862. The situation is good, being quite close to the British Hospital, at the corner of Called Bolivar and Caseros. The edifice is large and airy, with a handsome facade : in the hall is a fine statue of Charity, in Carrara marble, and the staircase is the best in the city. The blessing of the ehapel took place on the 27th December, 1863, the Bishop officiating, and the sponsors including the Pope's Nuncio, the Italian Minister, the President IH the Republic, and the Governor. In 1865 it was converted into a military hospital for wounded Brazilians from the seat-of-war ; in 1 867 it was used as a cholera hospital for the city, and subsequently there w^as a project to buy it for the Municipality, and transport the Women's Hospital hither. At present it is closed up, but will, probably, ere long be devoted to its real purpose, the reception of sick Italians. The committee consist of the Italian Consul, the Vice-Consul, and 100 subscribers. The Irish Hospital^ in Calle Rio Bamba, was established by the Sisters of Mercy in 1862, a wing being built to the convent for the purpose, and the expense defrayed by the Irish sheepfarmers. The wards are spacious and well-ventilated, but generally empty ; in fact, the number of sick among the Irish residents bears no proportion whatever to their population. The nuns have a House of Refuge attached, where fifteen orphan girls are brought up at the expense of the convent. During the cholera the hospital THE S.OITARY OSTITUTE. 45 was full, and the Sisters were untiring in their attendance on the sick. One of the Irish priests acts as chaplain both to the convent and the hospital. The Sanitary Institute, on Calle Buen Orden hill, is one of the finest establishments in the country, built with an utter disregard to expense, and supplied with every comfort and luxury in the Avay of sanitary arrange- ments. It was opened in June 1868. The grand entrance faces on Calle Buen Orden, and is back from the street about twenty yards ; on either side in the garden in front there is a handsome jet cVeau; ascending the steps the stranger enters a stately portico, with Corinthian pillars, and, on entering the hall, finds on one side the apothecary's department, and on the other the telegraph ofiice, which connects with the central office at 31 Calle Tacuari. The outward hall or passage, which runs around the building, leads to the various chambers of sickness and convalescence ; the space intervening between this hall and the round room in the centre, wiiich is the chapel beneath the dome, is occupied by various saloon dormitories for the patients, each and^!! opening on the chapel in the centre, the altar of which revolves, so as to be seen by all the patients ; and the beautiful stained-glass windows of the various departments open on the chapel in question. Ascending to the second flight we find the rooms, the hall, and the dormitories precisely in the same order as on the first floor, with the exception that the hall opens upon a charming terrace, which commands the finest view in the city. Aloft is the dome, which is an immense iron cistern, containing several hundred pipes of water, pumped up by steam from the premises in the rear ; each room is supplied with hot and cold Avater baths, patent ventilator, gas, and electric bells, with windows looking out on the gardens. The institute receives subscribers on payment of 330 JTLc monthly, or §300 ni,'c a year, in advance, by which they are qualified, when sick, to enter and remain until cured ; a clean airy apart- ment, .with suitable food, medical adviser, physic, and attendance, are supplied. For the use of sailors the proprietor, M. Lassance, has made the following regulations : — 1st. Every vessel, on entering port, can have her crew insured, provided always that she can show a clean bill of health. 2nd. Each member of the crew shall pay 3^0 m,(j. 3rd. An} individual taken ill eight days after will be admitted. 4th. The §50 above-mentioned only pays the mariner for three months. 5th. If the vessel brings sick, the doctors attached to the establishment shall classify them into ((Positive short cure» and ((Doubtful long cure.)> The former will only be treated as externs, paying so much a day, the latter Avill be admitted on chance, that is to say, for the sum of :^500in,(j they are cared and attended until quite 46 CHARITABLE ISSTITUTIOKS. restored. Non-subscribers can be accommodated, whilst ill, with private rooms and all requisites, at from §50 to §100 per day. Subscribers desirous of extra privileges can obtain them at half-price. Medical Staff — Dr. Luis Drago, President of the Board of Health, one apothecary, and two assistants. Consulting Physicians — Drs. William Rawson, Ventura Bosch, Nicanor Albarellos, Teodoro Alvarez, Toribio Ayerza. Free visits for the poor on Mondays and Fridays. Hours — From 8 to 9 a.m., and from 4.30 to 5.30 P.M. The drugs for the poor, ordered by the physicians of the establishment on the above dajs, Avill be compounded in the dispensary for half the regular prices. Patients are at perfect liberty to bring in any member of the faculty they choose for their own account, and the resident physicians will always assist without fees at a consultation called by the patient's particular doctor. The town office is at 31 Calle Tacuari. The site of the hospital was formerly included in Balcarce's quinta. The edifice was begun in 1866 : it has the appearance of a rotunda, and can be seen from the city. There is a fine kitchen garden attached, to raise vegetables for the house. Subscribers or patients are admitted without any distinction. CONVALECENCIA, POOR ATVD FOU>'DLING ASYLUMS. The Convalecencia, or Lunatic Asylum, is about half a mile from the Plaza Constitucion, on a hill overlooking Barracas. It takes its name from a hospital founded by the Bethlemite monks. The present new building was erected in 1859, at a cost of §2,000,000, the Legislature providing one- half: the architects were Messrs Hunt and Schroeder. The edifice is spacious, being the only asylum for male and female patients in the country : they were formerly coufuied in narrow and unwholesome quarters at the Residencia. It is related by Pillado that in 1785 there were but seven lunatics in Buenos Ayres. The average number of patients is about 400, of whom 28 per cent, are cured. The Men's quarter is under the charge of a manager, a physician, and fourteen keepers : that of the Women is managed by nine Italian «religieuses» called ((Daughters of Mary.M who receive a pension of §200^a month, having been brought out expressly at the request of the Municipality ; there are also a chaplain , a doctor, and seven servants. The expenses of the Women's asylum are paid out of the Provincial revenues of Buenos Ayres, and administered by the ladies of the Sociedad de Beneficeucia, amounting to §320,000 per annum. The Men's asylum is supported by the Municipality, at a cost of §370,000 per annum. FOUNDLISG ASD ORPHAN HOMES. 47 The Cxma, or Foundling Asylum, is situate at the back of San Francisco, facing the Debtors' prison, with the touching inscription «Mr father and mother have cast me out, God's pity has sheltered me here.)) The innocent victims of shame or distress are kindly brought up, and not unfrequently attain a good position in society. Infanticide is unknown, thanks to this institution. There is a staff of seventeen nurses, under the direction of six Italian nuns ; also a physician and a chaplain. A new asylum has been erected near the Convalecencia, where forty weaned children are cared for. The parents may claim a child up to two years, but after this term it becomes the property of the institute : at a certain age the children are given out, with consent of the Juez deMenores, to respectable families who engage to rear and educate them, making them also useful in domestic service, giving account of them when required by the Sociedad de Beueficeucia, and not taking them out of the country without a special permission. Notwithstanding every care given to the poor foundlings from the first moment, about one-third of them die, and 4 per cent, are claimed by their parents, who in this case have to pay a small retribution to the institute. The Cuna was established by Don JoseRiglos and the Yice-roy Vertis, in 1779, from which time it remained under charge of the civil authorities till 18'23, when the Sociedad de Benelicencia was formed. It was suppressed by Rosas in 1838, and re-established in 1852, since "which latter date over 300 children have been received. The annual expenditure is §600,000. Female Orphan School. — This institute was begun at San Miguel church, in 1755, by the Confraternity of Charity, which being suppressed in 1822, the asylum then pissed into the hands of Government. Rosas did not suppress the institute, but merely obliged the orphans to dress in red, the color of his party. The orphanage now exists in the suppressed convent attached to the Merced church, under the direction of the Sociedad de Beneficencia. Previous to the cholera of 1867 the number of orphans was limited to thirty-two, but the sad effects of the epidemic caused Governor Alsina to increase the number permanently to seventy-five. There are also 100 externs educated in the school. There are two mistresses, seven assistants, a chaplain, three visiting masters, and a staff of servants. The annual expenditure is $400,000. The Asilo de Mendigos, or Poor Asylum, is situate in the extinct convent of the Recoleta, adjoining the cemetery. Buenos Ayres has always been almost free from mendicity, although Parish represents a 7ew beggars in his time who used to go about on horseback. A few^ lame or blind men still make their rounds on Saturdays, afoot. The asylum was established 48 CHARITABLE LXSTITUTlOiXS. by the Municipality in 1858, and inaugurated by Governor Valentin Alsina : at tlie end of that year it contained seventy-nine mendicants. The first committee of direction was composed of Canon Fuentes, Dr. Pinedo, and Messrs. Martinez, Varela, Pintos, Fernandez, Billinghurst, Cabrera, Zinny, and Sefiorans. The average number in the asylum is about 200, of wliom three-fourths are whites, including some foreigners and old soldiers. The treatment they receive is very good. The Municipality contributes §60,000 a year, and the rest is made up by voluntary subscription. Previous to 1858 the convent was used as a barrack: the situation is very line, commanding an extensive view over the River Plate. Los Hljercicios is a kind of female penitentiary at the corner of Calles Salta and Independencia. The institute was founded in 1794, by a nun named Maria Antonia Paz, from Santiago del Estero, in a house in Calle Piedras now occupied by Seilor Terrero : it was transferred to its present site before the death of the founder, and has since been ruled by five superioresses. In 1859 the Bishop reformed the rules. There are usually 100 persons in the house, between nuns and penitents, the latter being sent hither by the Tribunals. The establishment receives a pension from Government and various public donations. Sociedad de Beneficencia.' — This society of charitable ladies was founded in 1823, to take charge of the Women's Hospital, Foundling Asylum, Orphan School, and the State schools for girls. It was installed by Rivddavia, the founders being Mesdames Cabrera, Mandeville, Aguirre, Sanches, Ramos, Boneo, Agtiero, Azcuenaga, Viamont, Luca, Izquierdo, Lasala, and Gutierrez. It was partly suppressed by Rosas in 1838, and revived under Mme. Garrigos in 1852. Since then it has rendered invaluable service, remodelling the above-mentioned institutions and establishing seventy female free schools in town and country, which are attended by 5,000 children. Deaf and Dumb Institute^ 481 Calle Cangallo : it was founded in 1857 by a philanthropic society called La Regeneracion, and placed under the direction of Mr. Charles Keil. The Provincial Government pays a subvention of <^ 12,000 a year, and the rest is borne by the society. The children are taught reading, writing, arithmetic, drawing, Christian doctrine, &c., but their number rarely exceeds half-a-dozen. They afterwards earn a living as cigar-makers, boot-makers, clc. STREETS AMD SHOPS. . 49 CHAP. Y. S T R EETS AND SHOPS. The Calle Rivadavia bisects the city, running due west from tlie Plaza Victoria to the Plaza Once de Setiembre, a distance of two miles: it is crossed at intervals of 150 yards by t^Yenty-tllree streets, which take different names as they run north or south. At the corner of Plaza Victoria and Calle San Martin Mr. Olivera, a cigar seller, has built a fine three-story house with a good view of the Plaza. In the first block we find the Cafe del Plata and many dry goods stores, besides Phillips' mineral water establishment, Cranwell's drug store, and the office of Best Brothers. The second block contains a large building belonging to Sefior Anchorena, in which are some foreign merchants' offices, viz. : 3Iessrs. Lohman & Co., Paul Pott pv/oJ .0)mU Calle Buen Orden has always been the gieat highway to the south: it runs through the Plazas of Mqnser rat and Independencia, terminating at, . the grand Sanitary Institute on the. (cbarj-ancaw overlobking the Calle Larga^,, r Calle Lima is the route taken by the tramway from the Southern Bailway terminus into town, passing through the Plaza Constitucion. In this street. are the Ejercicios and the Independencia market ; also, the ofllc^ ,<^f Corrales & Wehmann, brokers. „ , ", , ' .,' ,? i i • .» The other streets running soutn from Kivaaavia are hardly worth notice ^ At the corner of San Jose and Cochabamba is the new convent school of the French nuns, with a neat chapel. The S.y., suburbs comprise mans, fine quintas, belonging to the families of Casares, Bunge, Gowland, Crespq, ,. Martinez de Hoz, Aldao, Downes, Diehl, Frias, and Navarro Viola: near the last-named are the Southern Cemetery and the hew wmataderos.)) STREETS RUi>NING WEST — NORTH END. There are thirty-one streets running west from the river side, and we shall begin Avith those in the north end. Calle Piedad is the first street parallel with Bivadavia, and one of the great business thoroughfares. In the second block are the offices of CALLE CATJGALLoi' ^'^ 57 Messrs. Duguid & Co. and Arniug, Hutz, & Co. At the corner of Calle Reconquista is the new English Bank. In the third block Ave find 3Ir. Fallon's general wholesale and retail store, called the Hibernian House, also the offices of T. Nuttal, of Tomkinson & Co., and Turmeau's grocery. In the fourth block are the famous Swiss Confiteria, Ashworth & Co., Gilmour & Co., Barker,; bill' broker, Carhle, Smith, '<& Co., Gifford Brothers, Drabble Brothers & Co., the Estrella, Bienliechora, and Argentine insurance companies, and Twyford's grocery. Crossing Calle Florida we come to the residence of ex-Governor Saavedra, the public baths, Parlane, Graham, & Co., Khaynach & Co., Kerr & Grierson, J. Brown & Co., 3Iilligan & Williamson. At the corner of Suipacha is San 3Iiguel church. The present church was commenced on St. Michael's day, 1782, and completed six years later! it was not consecrated till 2lst ??OYember, ' 1784, the curate being Don Jose Gonzalez Islas, a native of Santiago del' Estero: six cuadras further is the Piedad ehurch. It was founded by a Portuguese, named Manuel Goihez. Before reaching the Plaza Once de^^' Setiembre we reach the Balvanera, anew and imposing church, attached to which is the college of the Padres Bayoneses ; the church was begun by a Franciscan mendicant friar named Juan Rodriguez, with the intent of establishing a house fbr. mjssioiiaries on the Chilian and Peruyia© iniSsidiis j near this is Livingstone's barraca. Calle Canqallo, formerly called La Merced. In the second block are tlje! , Pro-vence Hotel, the American Methodist Church, and Sciurrano's steamboat agency. The Hotel de la Paix is in front of the French theatre^, and then come the Ancla Dorada and the excellent coffee-houses callea Cafe de Paris and Cafe de Catalanes, which are crowded every evening : the best dinners in town may be obtained here. In this block are the offices of Peltzer & Co., Lennuyeux, ship broker, and the clothing stores of' Teraperley and Parody. At the next corner is the Hotel San Martiii,.' passing- SdriiJh is the Electric Telegraph office, and then the Maud Bahk't on the other side you see the splendid house and ware-rooms of Fusoni ct^ Maveroff. The picture gallery of Corti iz Francischelli is at the corner of" Florida. In the next block is the fine new building called Carabassa's Bank. Four cuadras further is the INew Market, and crossing Calle Talcahuano we remark a building with Grecian front, the club house of the Italian Benevolent Society. Calle Cmjo begins at Llavallol's mansion, which is the Boman Consulate, and in the next block are two fashionable houses, the first the residence of 3Ir. Charles Saguier, the second contains the steamboat agencies of Matti & Piera and the Corrientes Company. At the corner of Esmeralda is a ■58 STREKTS AND SHOPS. tasteful row of houses, in one of which the defunct Literary Club used to meet. Calle Con'.ie?ites~ln the first block is the Asylum for Emigrants, after which is the Victoria Hotel. Next come x^liss Roche's millinery shop, Mr. Holm's fashionable warehouse, and Shaw's upholstery. At the corner of Esmeralda is Black's timber yard. At the corner of Artes is the church of San Nicolas, and on crossing Calle Libertad we find another of the wooden bridges so necessary for foot-passengers when rains flood the streets. Calle Parque has long been a fashionable street. Anchorena's and Miro's houses are very fine : the latter, atthe corner of Sau Martin, being let out in first-class English lodgings : in this street are the French and Swedish Consulates, Dr. Ayer, Dr. Alston, ^Messrs. Allen Bailey & Co. Passing Calle Esmeralda we reach the Coliseum, and in the next block is the British Legation. Two blocks further is the Plaza Parque. Calles Tucuman and Temple come next. The first may be said to terminate at the Parque railway terminus, tlie second runs from the Monjas convent, passing through the Plazas Temple and Parque. Calles Cordoba and Paraguay. — In the first there is nothing remarkable till we reach the outskirts. In the fourteenth block is the chapel of El Carmen, founded in the beginning of this century by a wealthy native. Six squares further is a quinta tastefully laid out belonging to the late Dr. Leslie. Not far from this is another verj handsome, belonging to Dr., Velez Sarsfield. Calles Charcas, ^anta .Fe, and Arenales runfr^m the Plaza Retiro westwa^di^ ,. TheVjast named terminates in tlie Hueco de: C5abe?!itas,,an open spap^oj^^, some ten acres. , , , , . V. i ■-, -x t .;...,u ,r •, , Calle JuMal is the extreme north line of the city, and here ^re situat(^ many pretty residences overlooking the river. In this street is tlie American legation, passing which we come to the Cinco Esquiijas, .an^.o^d fashioned locality, deriving its name from the «five corners)) here forme(J,. by tlie crossing of the streets. From this point there is a well paved street tolheRecoleta. ^.^^^^^^ .i-io-.i)v.,R ir:) boIhiT) -pnibtiiid v/onoititorilftijboltl imu »4J.nI-.,.«bi u^i'i Calle Victoria is the first street parallel with Rivadavia, in the south section. In the first block are Messrs. Gibson and Murray, tailors; Dickleman & Co., and the Tribuna office: crossing Calle Peru we have on one side a French bazaar, and on the other the Progreso Club, after which come the German Club, Esbens & Co., Jourde & Co., Ebbeke, AVedekind ii CALLES POTOSI AKD BELGRANO. 5^-^ Fehr & Co., Schultz vfc Co. Passing Calle Esmeralda is the Alcazar, and then comes the Victoria theatre. Five squares further \^e pass the Plaza Lorea, and at the sixteenth block from the Plaza Victoria is the Bishop^s chapel of Salinas, attached to which is the diocesan seminary for ecclesiastics. Two squares further is the British cemetery. Calle Potosi runs from the chapel of San Roque, past the College church, Old Market, and the convent of San Juan : near this are the mansions of Cibils and Terrero. In this street are, Mr. Billinghurst's auction-rooms, Mr. Binden, broker ; Underwood's upholstery, Iturraspe & Co. In the fourteenth block is a handsome quinta once belonging to the late General Guido, and here the Italians are building a chapel of ease. Calle Moreno^ formerly San Francisco, begins at the Cuna and Debtors^ prison. In the second block is Mr. Drysdale's fine new house, and at the next corner a massive building belonging to the Auchorenas. The next block is occupied by the Provincial Government-house, State Library, and Model School. We next pass Kitchen's plumber's shop, and Mr. Bernheim's printing-liouse and type foundry : here the «Republica» and French paper are published. In the fifth block are the residences of the Stegman family, and 3Iinister Avellaneda. Two blocks fui'ther we reach the Plaza Monserrat. CalU BelgrcDio begins with the church and convent of Santo Domingo, in the second block is the Standard office, next to which is the National Statistic Department. In the next block is the residence of the President of the Republic, and passing the Plaza Monserrat we reach the church of that name. The origin of Monserrat was a small chapel built here by Don Pedro Sierra, which was made a parish church in 1769. At the foot of Calle Belgrano a whale was washed ashore in 1866. Calle Venezuela. — At the foot of this street is the temporary terminus of the Boca Railway. There are some fine houses in this street, especially that of Seiior Alzaga, and finished in modern style with rich marble ornaments. In this street are Paats & Co., Murdock & Henderson, beer importers ; Burmeister, w ool-broker ; and 3Ir. Shaw's great furniture mart. Calle Mexico begins at the Plaza Andes. At the corner of Chacabuco is CabraFs factory. The Anglo-German hotel is in the second block. Calle ChilehsiS nothing worthy of note. Calle Independencia. — In tlie third block is Mrs. Powell's boarding and day school, and in the seventh is the Concepcion church, after which come the Plaza Independeucia and tlie Ejercicios. Calles Estados Unidos and Eiiropa follow next. Nothing remarkable. Torres and Schickedantz, brokers, have an office at 211 Estados Unidos. 66 STREETS AND SHOPS.^'^''---^ Calles Comercio, San Juan, and Cochabamba. — In the first we fmd the Men's Hospital, San Telmo church, and the Comercio market. In Calle Cochabamba, thirteenth block, is the new French convent. Calles Garay and Brazil run from Fair's quinta to the Plaza Constitucion. In the second we pass the chapel and schools of Santa Catalina. Calle Caseros 'is iMo. extreme southern limit of the city,' starting from Lezama's quinta, passing that of Gonzales Moreno, crossing the Southern railway near thie Con\alecencia, and terminating at the new Southern cemetery . The city of Buenos Ayres can hardly boast much of manufactures, but there are some important industries. The breweries of Mr. Bieckhert in Calle S^lta, of Mr. Biihler Calle Bolivar, and several others do a large business,' The coach fa6t!6fybfSefW^ 'principal one in the [ country,' I urns out vehicles equal to any made in Europe. There are - several first-class iron foundries, including those of Seilor CaruUa, ^ Stevens ■'&'' Kay i.JolVi4\ Marshall, ^^&^^^^ Previous to the year 1865 we procured ice from the United States, but Mr. Demarchi's factory now supplies this article in abundance. There are also one or two factories for' making wax matches, and several for the fabrication of macaroni, minerar waters, &c. In the outskirts are numerous steam washing establishments for wool arid sheepskins. A stbam laundry has teen relcently put up, 6n the Palermo road. ' mo L'-i'j/jq . WM mdaia-i'^ii CUSTOM-HOUSE. 61 CHAP. YI. .!0 7yhen the vessel arrives in port she is boarded 62 CUSTOM-HOUSE. hy the health officer and aQoCicialfromthe pontoon Castelli ; the latter asks the captain what port he comes from, where he got his cargo, and who is his consignee ; he then gives him a printed copy of the port regulations, asks for the general manifest of cargo, and for a list (in any language) of ship's stores and supplies. The captain signs a declaration of same, and the papers are taken ashore to the wharf inspector, who transmits them to the Escribania Maritima. The consignee then presents to the Mesa a duplicate certificate from his Consul, whereupon the Mesa calculates the port charges accruing, and these have to be paid into the Treasury : the Mesa gives a certificate of such payment to the consignee, who then enters the vessel in the office of maritime arrivals and sailings, depositing the ship's papers. Tlien the consignees or brokers accompany the captain to enter the ship in form, and the captain identifies the ship's papers. A document is next drawn up ratifying the manifest, and signed by the captain, the consignee or broker, and the Customs clerk. The consigliee then makes three copies (in Spanish) of the manifest of cargo and ship's stores, the firzt copy on stamp according to the tonnage, the second on a 25 cent, stamp, and the third on common paper. The vessel is next entered, with her registry, number, class, nationality, name, port, consignee, and date, which are noted on the three manifests. The first manifest, with the ship's papers, is sent to the Contaduria, the second to the Resguardo, and the third to tbe Alcaidia. The vessel may then begin to unload, and the consignees to look after their goods. 'lO'^y'l' ,; :>;> iU: UNLOADING. The mate gives to the master of each lighter a document (in any language) specifying the goods delivered, their mark, number, &c., and getting a receipt for same: the lighterman presents the apapeletaw at the wharf wresguardo,)) where it is compared with the manifest, after which he makes out (cpapeletas)) for the various deposits to which the goods are to be forwarded. The Resguardo numbers and signs these papeletas, which are then transmitted to the Alcaide, to receive such goods. The Alcaide marks on the (cpapeletas)) the name of the employee Avho has to receive the goods, and the deposit where they are to be stored. The employee in question, on receiving the goods, gives a receipt for same, and the «papeletas)) are then returned to the Alcaidia, and archived. After the vessel has discharged all her cargo, the Resguardo sends an officer to compare tlie list of ship's stores as returned. CUSTOM-HOUSE REGULATIOjVS. G3 lo -yrf/j ,.r GOODS IN TRANSIT. If after eight days from arrival a vessel has not broken bulk the consignee may request her clearance for another port : this shall be on a 25 cent, stamp, and on payment of port dues the Administrator, after the visit by the Resguardo, shall return her papers and clear her. The transit of goods not discharged may be effected either by «retorno» in the same vessel or by «transbordo)) to another. Duplicate petitions on 25 cent, stamps must be made, setting forth the name of the importing vessel and that of transhipment, the destination of the latter, the marks, contents, and qualities of the goods ; and these must be presented to the Direct Despatch oflSce of the Contaduria within twelve days after the ship's arrival. A term of forty days is allowed when the manifest expresses that the goods are for transhipment to a certain destination: the same term is allowed for lumber, salt, and coal. In like manner goods solicited for direct despatch w ithin eight days from the ship's arrival may be transhipped within forty days in the manner already stated. DIRECT DESPiTCH. The consignee has to draw up four documents : a manifest on 25 cent, stamp, a copy of bill of lading on 25 cent, stamp, and copies of each of the foregoing on common paper. In all must be specified the mark and number of each parcel, specifying its contents, quality, quantity, &c., either in local or foreign measurement, but the consignee may put if he wish «contents unknown,)) and the papers are then sent to the Contaduria, the consignee either paying the duties cash, or giving the usual guarantee. The proper clerk then puts «despachese)) on the manifests, and «conforme)> on the bill of lading, as also on the copies. If the consignee has put Kcontents unknown)) the inspector proceeds to open the case and note down its contents. The consignee presents the document at the Conta- duria, the clerk stamps same, and specifies the employee who is to despatch the goods. This document must next be counter-signed by the proper Vista, who sends it to the warehouseman, retaining the manifest for comparison. The warehouseman has to weigh the goods or measure them. The Vista assesses them at the valuation in the tariff, and, if not expressed therein, he puts his own valuation. In case the importer resist the valuation, and that the Vista do not alter it within three days, the Custom- house shall be obliged to take the goods at such valuation. If the goods be damaged they must be sold by auction within fifteen days, and the duties 64 - CUSTOM-HOUSE. assessed at 23 per cent, under the auctioneer's returns. In all cases of disagreement between the merchant and the Arista it shall be decided by the Tariff Committee, from whose decree there is no appeal for goods specified in the tariff. The Vista then writes «despachado» on the copy, and the manifest is sent to the Coutaduria. The Alcaidia clears the goods, and archives said copy. In comestibles and liquors the Vista often puts «despachado)) before measuring them, but the measurement is afterwards noted. The Coutaduria recovers the duties cash, when not amounting to ^50 s., or if there be no bail. All duties payable cash must be satisfied within five days from notification. The consignee in paying tlie duties must take a memorandum of their amount from the Coutaduria to the Tesoreria, which latter office gives a receipt in due form. Tiie Coutaduria draws bills at four months, which are presented to the consignees, and must be accepted Avithiu five days, whereupon they are sent in to the JXational Treasury. Extra duties must be paid cash, in precisely the same way as those not amounting to ^50 s. passengers' luggage AIXD SPECIE. Luggage, parcels, and samples may be landed at the passengers' wharf without permit, and before the vessel is registered for unloading. The Besguardo examines the luggage and shows it to the Vista, who despatches it if the value be under $10 s. If tlie value be over $10 s., and under $50 s., the Vista calculates the duties and a stamp of 25 cents., wliich must be paid to tlie Inspector of the Resguardo before letting the goods pass. If the value be over $50 s. the Resguardo sends the parcel with a papeleta to the Custom-house, where the Alcaidia takes charge of same. Specie may also be despatched by the Resguardo, without Avaiting for the ship to be formally entered ; but in case the consignee do not wish to run the risk of opening the parcel, the Resguardo seals the same, telling the consignee .. that he must produce it in the same condition within forty-eight hours at , the Tesoreria under pain of $500. The Treasury counts it and delivers it ■- ^t once to the owner. GOODS FOR DEPOSIT. Permits for storing goods are made on a 25 cent, duplicate stamp, the merchant declaring the name and port of the ship, the marks, number, and contents of the packages, and presenting same at the Contaduria within eight days of the ship's arrival : passing this term tbere is a fine of 2 per EXPORT TRAFFIC. 65 cent, ad valorem. la the copy bill of lading the merchant may put ((contents unknown.)) The goods are afterwards at the merchant's disposal, to be sold or transhipped, either the whole or in part, and if undisposed of after two years the storage may be renewed in form. In despatching bonded goods the form is similar to that used for ((direct despatch:)) there • must be a manifest on a 25 cent stamp, and two copies on plain paper. Petitions for ((trausbordo)) or ((retornow of goods not landed must be made within forty days of the ship's arrival. Petitions for re-shipment of goods in transit must be made on three papers for sailing ships, and four for steamers, two of them with 25 cent stamp, expressing the ship's name, date of arrival, nature of goods, &c. Goods that have lain two years in deposit can be re-stored at the expiration of the legal term : the merchant presents a permit at the Contaduria on a 25 cent stamp, with copy on common paper, which after receiving the ((conforme)) is sent to the Alcaidia. One of the warehouse inspectors proceeds to the store in question and compares the goods : if the store be a private deposit there is no warehouse fee, and the Contador puts his ((conforme;)) but if it be a Customs warehouse the merchant must pay at the Treasury the warehouse and ((eslingage)) fees for the two years past, getting receipt for same. The Custom-house allows packages to be broken up, provided they he taken to the ((Deposito de fracciones.)) Two permits are requisite, one on a 25 cent stamp, and specifying in what deposit the goods are : the Alcaidia gives the necessary order to the warehouse inspector, who delivers the goods to two Ayudantes and returns receipt for same, with the ((Conforme,)) to the Contaduria : the goods so broken up are then despatched either for the market or transhipment, in the same manner as if whole packages. 3Ierchants may also cut off a sample, on condition of restoring same when clearing the article : a permit is requisite on a 25 cent stamp, expressing the usual particulars and the quantity required for a sample for the Contaduria and Alcaidia despatch . * EXPORT TRAFFIC. When a vessel wishes to load for foreign parts, the consignee, broker, captain, or other person, makes a petition to the Administrator for permission to be placed on the berth, expressing the name, class, nationality and destination. The stamp is determined by the ship's tonnage. The petition is lodged at the ((Mesa de despacho directo)) in the Contaduria, for the vessel to be entered ; it is then sent to the Secretaria, s 66 CUSTOM-HOUSE. which in turn passes it to the Resguardo, and finally it is sent to the office of clearances or wsalidas Ji ultramar.)) The vessel is then ready to receive cargo. In shipping produce that is subject to export duties the shipper must present two permits on 25 cent stamps, specifying the ship's name, &c., and the produce to be shipped, as also the point of shipment. The «Mesa de Salidaso gives a ticket for such shipment. If the shipment be made from the old or new Custom-house, the «boleto» must be shewn to the Kesguardo, and the barraquero or shipper sends off each cart with a wpapeleta)) expressing the ship's name, the lighter, the nature of goods, and the shipper : this «papeleta)> is given to the Resguardo. The lighter being fully laden proceeds to the ship, and thus each lighter goes till all the cargo is shipped. If the goods are to be shipped from Barracas the Besguardo seuds an official to weigh or count them at the barraca in the act of shipment. The barraquero gives the lighterman a «papeleta)) of the goods shipped, with the names of the shipper, the lighter, and the vessel receiving; this wpapeletaj) is countersigned by the official and afterwards presented at the Resguardo, which gives the lighterman a «pasavante» to the Boca. Here the second Resguardo gives another to the third Resguardo, situate at the mouth of the Riachuelo. If the last has any suspicion of smuggling it sends an official to superintend the loading. When the shipment is made from the Boca the same formalities are observed, As soon as all the cargo is shipped the Resguardo returns the ttboleto)) to the shipper, who takes it to the Contaduria and Liquidacion for payment of the export duties. The «Mesa de salidasw having assessed the iimount of these, the shipper then goes to the Tesoreria and pajs same, getting a receipt for the amount. If the shipper has any «boletos de transito)) tiiese are deducted from the duties. In the event of shipping goods that are duty-free the same formalities are gone through as already expressed, except as rajards duties. SHIPMENT IN TRANSIT. When a merchant has obtained a permit of «re-embarco)) in the manner already explained, he takes it to the Alcaidia, to be stamped, &c. Either of the transit offices, in the old or new Custom-house, receives the permit after which the Resguardo is notified, that it may oversee the transhipment and then endorse the permit, previous to the inspector returning it to the merchant. If the shipment takes place at the Boca the Resguardo superintends the operation and endorses the permit «embarcado,» The CLEARISG VESSELS. 67 goods being re-embarked the merchant presents the permit at the Coutdduria, which assesses the warehouse fees to be paid at the Tesoreria, the latter giving receipt for same in due form. RE-EXPORTATIOIV OF GOODS. Goods that have been duly cleared and have paid duties may be again shipped for foreign ports in this manner : two permits for exportation are presented to the «Mesa de salidaso on a 25 cent stamp, with the usual particulars and specifying that the goods have already paid duty ; the permit is then sent to the Resguardo, who oversees the shipment. CLEARING VESSELS FOR ABROAD. When a vessel has taken in all her cargo the consignee gives on oath a full return of same, according to the bills of lading, to the «Mesa de salidas,)) which sends him to the wdespacho directo»; the latter office compares the papers, to see if the vessel has discharged all the cargo expressed in her manifest on arrival in port. But if it happen that there are goods not cleared by the consignees, the office will require a certificate from the Alcaidia that such goods are in deposit, before clearing the vessel. These formalities being fulfilled, the merchant presents to the Oficina de Entradas a petition with same stamp as that for breaking bulk, begging that ^the vessel may be cleared for such or such port. This permit is granted with the note (after payment of duties), and the permit is sent to the 51esa de Salidas. The merchant next presents a Guia on 3-3 stamp, expressing ship's name, class, &c., and a full manifest of all her cargo : the manifest is countersigned by the Administrador andContador, and then given to the captain. CVPTAL^'S AND HEALTH PAPERS. Before clearing a vessel the Mesa de Salidas shall calculate from the consular papers the amount of port-dues, including the health-paper, which the captain shall pay at the Tesoreria, in the same manner as the entrance dues on arrival. The Mesa then advises the consul by certificate that the vessel is duly cleared, and notifies the Capitania in like manner. The^ S2 68 CUSTOM-HOUSE. captain having procured the certificates for his Consul and the Capitania. also the ship's manifest and health patent, he proceeds to the Consulate for his navigation papers, lodged there on arrival : after this he goes to the Consul of the country of his destination, to have his papers «viseed,)) then to the Capitania to pay light dues, and finally to the Resguardo on the mole to have his manifest compared with the apapeletas)) given on shipment of produce. When once cleared the vessel can do no operation further than to receive luggage, which merely passes inspection on the mole. For provisions, the captain, consignee, or broker, may at any time draw up a permit on a 25 cent stamp, aud present it the Mesa de Salidas, which at once grants same, subject to the surveillance of tlie Resguardo. (The Customs-law proper for the year will be found in Section A). BOLSA A3ID BANKS. 69 CHAP. YII. BOLSA, BANKS, AND PUBLIC COMPANIES. THE BOLSA DE COMERCIO. The BoUa is a handsome buildiag, in the best part of the city, being situate in Calle San Martin, near the corner of Cangallo. The hall is spacious, lofty and well ventilated, with a ring in the centre, around which the brokers assemble when transacting business. The brokers meet at 1 1 a.m., and you will hear them in a loud voice offering to buy or sell Government bonds, gas shares, &c., till 2 p.m., when the merchants meet. The attendance on 'Change often numbers several hundred persons, and the hall can scarcely accommodate all the members. Groups of English and Germans may be seen in the wing on the left, French and Italians on the right, and a general mixture of these and other nations indiscriminately through the hall. Half a dozen languages are currently spoken on all sides, the most general being English and Spanish. The large black board on the right gives the various quotations of stock and transactions of the day ; on the opposite side is another board, with quotations of produce : the liquidation room and reading room are at the further end of the hall. Upstairs there is a board room, which occupies the whole front of the building, and a committee room adjoins, which is sometimes used for meetings, also the manager's offices. The busiest hour on 'Change is about 2.30 P.M., and strangers can get a visitor's ticket through any of the members. In the time of Rosas there was no Bolsa,but the merchants and "brokers used to have a rendezvous at one or other private office. About 70 BAKKS AND COMPANIES. twenty years ago there was a «Camuati)) at the house now occupied by Mauigot the hatter, in Calle Florida ; this is a Guarani w ord signifying a beehive, and the name was still applied to the various poinls of re-union, as circumstances obliged a change of locality from time to time. The house which is now the Trihnna office was expressly taken for the purpose, and a kind of society established, till put down by the police agents of Rosas. A French broker named Loiseau took a house next the public baths in Calle Piedad and revived the association : subsequently it removed to Calle Victoria, and then to Calle Piedad, next door to the Cafe de Suizos, where it was again put down by the police. A few days after the fall of Rosas (1852) the «Camuati)) again assembled, in a store belonging to Mr. Armstrong, near the corner of Piedad and Reconquista. It was transferred to Haedo's house in Calle San 3Iartin, and on the 10th July, 1854, a regular Bolsa was established, at a meeting of 1 1 8 merchants and brokers in the hall of the Tribunal of .Commerce. A committee was framed of Messrs. Llavallol, Gowland, Moreno, Monasterio, Pico, Biedma, Bornefield, Casares, Martinez de Hoz, Lynch, Serna, and Sorondo, who took the house where Mr. Hart's office now is, and here the Bolsa was located for some years. In 1860 it was resolved to build a new Bolsa, and a joint-stock company was formed, with a capital of § 1,380,000, in shares of §1,000 each: the building was completed in a year and a half, and inaugurated with great pomp by General Mitre, in February 1862. The subscription is $50 a month, and the annual profits are distributed thus:., 90 per cent, to the shareholders, 10 per cent, to the members in general. The institution has been so successful that the shares are at a high premium and difficult to be obtained: the annual dividends are 12 or 15 per cent. No one can become a member unless resident over twelve months in the country and engaged in commercial pursuits, besides being recommended by a merchant. Brokers must have two recommendations. Consuls are admitted as honorary members. Ship captains are admitted free. THE PROVINCIAL BiNK. The Casa de Moncda^ or Provincial Bank, 29 Calle San Martin, was founded on January 15th 1822 by a meeting of foreign and native merchants, presided over by the Finance Minister Bon Manuel Garcia, its first operations being merely as a discount bank. In 1826 it was converted into a national bank, under the title «Banco de las Provincicis Unidas:» tills in turn made way for the Casa de Moneda, in 1836, and as the currency PROVI>CIAL BAISK. 71 had been frequently tampered with in the interim, by successive emissions, the value of the paper dollar fell, from 4 shillings, as low as sixpence. In 1826 the circulating medium amounted to 32,694,856, the exchange being quoted in February of that year at §18 to the doubloon, or about. 44 pence to the dollar. In October 1829 the rate^vas 108 to the doubloon, or 7^ pence to the dollar, and from this time the currency never recovered itself; when Rosas reformed the bank in 1836 the circulation amounted to 1 5J millions, tlie rate being 122 to the doubloon. But the subsequent depreciation of the currency was rapid and ruinous; many people suddenly lost large fortunes, so violent were the fluctuations in even one day. The emissions of 1837-.39 amounted to 24,000,000, and in >'ovember of the latter year the currency stood at $300, leaving the paper dollar worth 2frf. But it had not yet touched «bathos,)) for in the following year (1840; Rosas emitted 12,000,000 and the luckless paper dollar fell to 1|^ pence, or 570 to the doubloon. Nevertheless a recuperative period ensued, during a term of six years without any fresh emission ; in 1844 the dollar had risen, as high as 4 pence, or 200 to the doubloon, and continued so till the close of 1845. In January 1846 Rosas emitted 75,000,000, and the currency fell considerably below 2 pence : the circulation now amounted to 126,000,000. After the fall of Rosas the emissions grew more frequent, viz, two in 1852, and five in the year following, in all 91,000,000. Then was invented the amortization by burning, 7,250,000 were burned in 1853 , after this the paper dollar improved to 2^ pence, at which figure it was almost stationary for a long time. War with General Urquiza ensued in 1859, and an emission of 85,000,000 took place, the dollar again falling to 2 pence. A second civil war broke out in 1861, Avhich called for 100,000,000 more, and further depreciated the currency, tiU it was judged expedient to pass a law declaring any future emission illegal. At the same time the* burning was resorted to, monthly, and 55,000,000 were thus consumed, when another law was made to stop the same, September 9th, 1863. At the beginning of 1864 the circulation amounted to 340,000,000, and in the absence of wars or fresh emissions the money-market sustained a long and painful crisis from enormous speculation. The fluctuations were ruinous to the honest hard-working tradesmen, and also affected the price of staple articles of produce. A great outcry was made, various schemes were proposed for a fixed currency, and laws were passed under Governor Saavedra's administration which proved illusory towards bringing any remedy. In 1866 the Alsina cabinet boldly established an Oficina de Carobios, where gold and paper were freely given at 25 «pesos)) to the hard dollar : notwithstanding all manner of evil predictions, the currency 72 BANKS ATiD COMPANIES. has remained ever since at tliis fixed valuation of 2 pence to the paper dollar, and the benefit to legitimate trade has been incalculable : tlie city merchants presented Governor Adolfo Alsina and his Finance Minister, Don Mariano Varela, Avith a handsome gold medal. The last reform of the bank constitution was in 1854, when it was denominated « Banco y Casa do Moneda de Buenos Ayres,)) and many wholesome improvements were instituted by the advice of Dr. Velez Sarsfield. This distinguished statesman is regarded almost as the founder of the bank, and his full length portrait is seen in the board-room. The board is composed of sixteen merchants, one-half foreigners, annually named by the Provincial Government. The directors sit daily for the transaction of business. The old bank-notes of the time of Rosas had the motto «Long live the Restorer of the laws ! Death to the foul and savage Unitarios ! :» these are very rare now. The currency of 1854, printed in London, had emblematic devices of commerce and industry ; the engraving was good, but the paper inferior. In 1864 machinery was procured from England and a new issue made, the paper being so bad as to crumble away in a few days, and offering every facility for forgery. The first bank forgeries in Rosas' s time were rudely executed, a sample being still kept in the Museum, and the delinquent was shot. In late years forging bank-notes has unfortunately become a constant practise, and a considerable proportion of the currency is forged, so cleverly as frequently to escape detection. The new notes, however, printed by the New York Bank-note Go, in 1868, are of very superior quality, and henceforward forgery will be extremely difficult. The ordinary currency consists of notes of gl, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1,000, and 5,000, thus ranging from 2 pence to £40 : besides these there are specie-notes of various values to a high amount. The bank has great fiscal privileges, and in bankrupt cases enjoys a priority over all other creditors. No other bank in Buenos Ayres h?s right of issue. Deposits for the law-courts and public departments gain no interest : moneys belonging to minors are ordered to be lodged here, but gain the usual interest. The Western Railway owes ^59,000,000 to the bank, for the sections from Moreno to Chascoihus. During the Paraguayan war the Government obtained great facilities in the negotiation of public funds emitted for the purpose, on tlie guarantee of extra duties. The bank profits are large, and go to increase its capital. The Directors receive no salary. Among the improvements of recent years have been the opening of accounts-current, and the establishment of eight brandies throughout the Province : tlie first branch, at San Nicolas, was established in 1863. The bank paper-money is declared a legal tender throughout the whole Republic. It is proposed to build a new bank on the MAUA BANK. 73 site at present occupied. The bank regulations are as follows : — Deposits of not less than §400 m^ and $I6s. received. These deposits Avill not be entitled to interest if Avithdrawn before the expiration of sixty days from the date of such deposit ; after sixty days they Tvill be entitled to interest from the date of deposit. All interests not collected shall, at the. end of each year, be capitalized. All deposits at interest shall be entered in a book "which the bank will deliver to the depositors, in which all payments of interest and capital shall be entered, and all interest shall be payable after the first of the month or on taking out the deposit. The bank discounts bills "with two signatures having from seventy to ninety days to run ; it also discounts mercantile bills of from seventy days to six months, on condition that at maturity they are paid in full. The bank draws at sight upon the following branches : — Dolores, San Nicolas, Lobos, Salto, Chivilcoy, Mercedes, Baradero, and Azul. The bank pa}s commission to brokers on the first discounting of bills and promissory notes. The bank lends to artizans and operatives sums of from $.3,000 to $20,000, taking as security a document with'any well-known signature. Credits in account current are opened on the following terms : — 1st. The bank opens accounts current for commercial houses. 2nd. The security to be either personal or with documentary values. 3rd. In each case the bank shall fix the amount of credit. 4th. The Directory shall from time to time arrange the interest chargable pro and contra. 5th. Each account shall be liquidated every sixty days. 6th. A pass-book shall be given to parties opening accounts current, for entry of cheques and sums deposited. Business hours from 10a.m. to 4p.m. THE MAUA BANK. The Maud Bank was established in 1858, under the management of Mr. William Leslie, in an office in Calle Reconquista. The business increased rapidly to such an extent that it was necessary in January 1861, to remove to the present spacious premises in Calle Cangallo, Nos. 10 1 and 103^ where it continues to do a large business, the present manager being Seiior Amorins. For some years it was the only private bank in the country, and lent great assistance in accounts current to traders, besides aidinji all manner of industrial enterprises, such as the Salado navigation, San Juan mines, «fec. Baron 3Iauci has various branch banks throughout the Republic, which have the right of emission, although the bank in puenos Ayres has not. This was the first institution that opened a savings' bank in the 74 ' BAITKS AWD COMPANIES. Argentine Republic, to receive small sums at interest from the working classes. The clerks speak English, French, Portuguese, Spanish, &c. Foreigners about to travel up the Uruguay, through Entre Eios and the Banda Oriental, will find it convenient to provide themselves with a letter of credit from the Maua Bank of Buenos Ayres or 31ontevideo, as, owing to its numerous branches in the different towns, drafts on this bank are everywhere received the same as cash : the chief circulating medium at all the saladeros and estaucias on the Tlrujjuay is Maua bank paper. The Maua Bank is the largest real estate holder in the River Plate, owning immense estates on either side of the Uruguay, as also large properties in and about Buenos Ayres and Montevideo. Unlike the London and River Plate Bank, the head establishment of the Maua Bank is in Rio Janeyro, whilst the bank here is but a branch. The banking-office, in Calle Cangallo, which the bank holds in fee, is one of the finest buildings in this city, built by a wealthy Paraguayan gentleman in 1861, who sold it to the Baron Maua in 1866. The close proximity of the bank to the Bolsa renders it a most convenient establishment for the «almaceneros)) and dealers, who have so steadily supported this bank. 3Ir. Souza, the deputy-manager, speaks English fluently, and is most attentive to strangers. Mr, White is the head book-keeper. The bank regulations are as follows : — 1st. Bills and obligations with good signatures are discounted on conventional terms. 2nd. Money is advanced on mercantile and other securities, approved of by the Manager. 3rd. Accounts current are opened with mercantile or other parties who may prefer depositing endorsed and transferable securities, against which they may draw up to an amount previously convened, under conditions established for such class of operations. 4th. Money is received in account current, bearing interest from day of deposit, which is accumulated in favor of the parties every three months, the depositors being allowed to draw at any time, by means of cheques, part or the full amount at their wish, save when the quantity exceeds 300 doubloons or $100,000 m/c-, in which case forty-eight hours' previous notice is requiied to be given at the treasury of tlie bank. 5th. Bills or letters of credit are drawn and taken on Montevideo, Rosario, Santa Fe, Salto (Banda Oriental), Paysanda, Rio Janeyro, and other places in Brazil, England, and France, as also on other places, of which notice will be given hereafter The estab- lishment is ahvajs open from 10 a.m. till 3 p.m. The Savings' Bank, at No. 103 Calle Cangallo, is open from 9 a.m. till 3 p.m. every day, for the reception of the savings of the working classes, Sundays and holidays excepted. The bank will deliver to each depositor a pass-book, in which will be entered the amount deposited and withdrawn. The depositor is LONDON AND RIVER PLATE BANK. 75 permitted at auy time to withdraw the whole or part of the sum deposited; in the former case the interest will be calculated up to date. 1st. The bank receives at interest any sum from $25 mc- 2ud. The interest allowed is 6 per cent, per annum, which is liquidated every six months. 3rd. The depositors can at any time withdraw the whole or part of the money deposited. 4th. Once the money deposited exceeds ^^.o'JboO mij., or $1,000 s., the depositor, if he wishes, can open an account current, according to the rules established by the bank. The Maua Bank, as Avell as the London and River Plate Bank, subscribes liberally to all local charities. THE ENGLISH BANK. The London ami River Plate Bank, established on 1st January, 1863, was first situate in the hq|ise of Seiior Elortondo, 80 Calle Piedad, and now occupies the fine new building at the corner of Piedad and Reconquista. The bank was started by a number of London merchants, many of whom had some connection with the River Plate, the authorised capital being £2,000,000 sterling, in £40 shares, subscribed capital £1,000,000, and paid up capital £600,000 : the management was entrusted to Mr. J. H. Green, a merchant of many years standing here ; and the eminent financier, Don Nqrberto Riestra, was named Consulting Director. The success of the bank was very decided from the outset, and it soon began to rule exchange on England. The introduction of so large an amount of English gold had, afl'he time, a most healthy. effect on our money market, and since that period all other kinds of coin have almost disappeared, while the English sovereign, previously unknown, has now become the current specie of the country. English habits of business have also gained strength in our cosmopolitan trading community, and the bank has insensibly proved a powerful medium in the industrial reformation which is being happily worked out among us. The staff of clerks quickly rose from three to a dozen, and now numbers thirty, showing how the business of the establish- ment has grown in six years, while branches have also been established at Rosario and Cordoba, besides the house in Montevideo, which last Avas founded simultaneously with that of Buenos Ayres. During the Paraguayan war the bank lent valuable aid to the IS'atioual Government, by finding funds and making advances when circumstances rendered such negotiations more of a f iendly favor than a business transaction. Nevertheless, the bank has not yet been able to obtain a right of issue in Buenos Ayres, as this privilege depends on the Provincial Government, which gives the State 76 BANKS AND OOMPANIKS. bank a monopoly in this regard. In 1866, a panic having arisen among the working classes who had deposits in the Provincial- (or State) Bank, Mr. Green came forward promptly to its support, as did also the 3Iaua Bank and the leading capitalists of the city. Mr. Riestra resigned his post as Director in 1865, being appointed to go to London to negotiate the loan. During some critical monetary periods the bank has passed safely and honorably, and the Bosario brancli has been equally successful : the Cordoba branch does little as yet. In 1866 new shares, £20 each, were emitted in London, raising the subscribed capital to £1,500,000, and the reserve fund in 1868 amounted to £145,000. The annual dividends from the commencement have ranged between 10 and 15 per cent., and the shares are always at a good premium. The premises first taken in Calle Piedad were found insufficient in 186^, and the bank purchased the corner building of Calles Florida and Cangallo ; but this was afterwards sold at a profit, it being resolved to erect a proper bank at the corner of Calles Piedad and Reconquista. This handsome structure is one of the ornaments of our city, and in the best business locality. It was commenced in January 1867, and is now completed; Mr. Hunt of this city was the architect, and had great success in the style of architecture chosen, which is of the Roman-Corinthian order. The roof came out from England, and is a very fine piece of workmanship, extremely light, and at the same time of great strength. Over the principal doorway is placed a clock, by Frodsham of London, which, besides adding to the finish of the building, is of great use in that part of the city, where the traffic is large. The grand hall is 90 feet long by 45 feet broad, and the ceilihg is 42 feet high, embracing the entire height of the building : the flooring of the hall is composed of Winton's patent tiles. Besides the grand hall there are manager's rooms, consulting and waiting rooms, clerks' luncheon and dressing rooms, and porters' quarters. Every possible modern impt'ovemeiit has been introduced in fitting up the establishment. The furnishings are by Rough and Son, of St. Paul's Churchyard, and are of the best description, constructed on the most improved plans, with everything conducive to facilitate the despatch of busine'ss. The cashier's counter, for paying and receiving money, has a sweep of 60ft. in length. The vaults underneath are perhaps one of the most interesting features in the building ; a iiydraulic lift of considerable power lowers the bullion down with a very easy motion. The room is 48ft. in length by 12 ft. in width, divided into three separate compartments by strong iron bars ; each compartment is laid off with marble shelving, and they are capable of accommodating, besides the treasure of the bank, any quantity of valuables that may be placed there for safe custody. The ..AIIGE>'TINE BA>'K. 77 upper portion of the hack part of the building contains a very comfortable dwelliug-house, occupied by the principal ofBcials. The bank regulations are as follows : — Current accounts opened with parties properly introduced, and interest allowed on credit balances. Customers have the advantage of drawing cheques, of having approved bills discounted, of obtaining loans upon negotiable securities, of depositing bills, coupons, &c., for collection, and of lodging with the bank valuable property in the fire-proof strong rooms for safe custody. Deposit Accounts — Deposits received from the public generally — either for fixed periods or subject to seven or thirty days notice of withdrawal — interest on which is regulated by the market value of money, the bank notifying any change in the rate by advertisement in the principal daily papers. Bills of Exchange issued on the following places: — London, Dublin, Liverpool, Paris, Antwerp, Hamburg, Genoa, Rio de Jaueyro, Montevideo, Kosario, Cordoba, and all branches of the National Bank of Scotland. Business hours, 10 a.m. to 3.30 P.M. every day. THE ARGENTINE A>D OTHER BAXRS. The Argentine Bank was established in 1867, through the exertions of Messrs. CuUen, O'Shee, Lanuz, Iturraspe and other influential merchants and capitalists. It was founded on the basis of the Eosario Bank, a flourishing institution with some branches in Eutre-Rios. The capital was fixed at $2,000,000, in shares of $100 (£20) each, of which $60 were called up, and the bank commenced a good and lucrative business under the management of Seuor Marc6 del Pont ; the dividend declared for the last half year (1868) was at the rate of 22 per cent, per annum. The premises are situate next door to the Provincial Bank, in a house belonging to Judge Medina, which had previously been fitted up as a small theatre. In the first allotment of the city by Don Juan de Garay, on June 1 1th, 1580, this site is marked >'o. 7, and was given to an adventurer named Estevan Alegre. The counting-house and savings-bank are on either sides of the entrance, and the manager's office forms the fourth side of the court-yard. The business and regulations of the bank are similar to those already noted. The branches at Cordoba and Rosario happily escaped uninjured during the convulsions of 1866-68. There are also branches at Santa Fe, Parana, Concordia, and Gualeguay; the notes of the bank are convertible at all these branches. The currency is in two kinds of paper, viz. : Bolivian dollars, and patacons or Mexican dollars. Most of the shareholders are 78 BkTUKS AISD COMPANIES. Argentines, but there are also some Englishmen and other foreigners holding a large number of shares. Oflice hours, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. The WanUyn Bank is a private establishment greatly patronized by the English and American houses. Mr. Frederick Wanklyn, the head of the firm, is an Englishman of excellent connection and varied experience. A number of English estancieros keep accounts with this bank. The rates of interest charged and allowed are the same as at the other banks. Mr. Alfred Lumb, son of Mr. Edward Lumb, one of the oldest residents in Buenos Ayres, is partner and second manager of the concern. The baaking offices are alongside the Bolsa in Calle San Martin, and occupy a part of the ground floor of Mr. Lumb's magnificent house, known as the Universelle. Wanklyn's bank is well known in the camp, as it does a very large business in small drafts on Ireland, being connected with the National Bank of Ireland. Wanklyn and Co. are also connected with the National Bank, London; Mdllet Bros. & Co., Paris; Granet Brown & Co., Genoa; Vidal Cuadras & Co., Barcelona; Menendez & Barcena, Vigo; E. F. Davison & Co., New York; and give drafts for large and small amounts on all the above. Hart^s Bank. — This is also a private English bank, of high credit and repute. Mr. Henry Hart is one of the best known English bankers in Buenos Ayres, and does a very extensive banking business with the English and German importers and barraqueros. Mr. Hart is considered one of the best judges of city paper. The banking offices are in Calle San Martin, the former site of the Bolsa. Carabassa^s Bank, a private native bank, which does an immense discount business, and has some of the best English and American accounts current in Buenos Ayres. Sefior Carabassa is an affable polished Spaniard, stands, particularly well with foreign merchants, and is the private banker of most of the native capitalists. The new banking premises have been concluded in the present year, and combine elegance with convenience ; they are situate in Calle Cangallo. The building is expressly constructed for the bank. The site was bought at auction in 18G7 for g85O,000ra/c. Caprile and P/casso, Italian bankers, who do a considerable business in small drafts on Genoa. SOCIEDAD RURAL ARGENTINA. The Argentine Rural Societ//.' — In 1858 the first effort was made towards fostej-ing industrial interests among the rural population, by an exhibition RURAL SOCIETY. 79 got up at Palermo by Messrs. Posadas, Sarmiento, Javier, John Clark, and Edward Oiivera. The campaigns of Cepeda and Pavon followed, and public attention was distracted from the arts of peace. In May, 1866, Messrs. Martinez de Hoz, Richard ]^■e^Yton, and Oiivera projected the establishment of a Farmers" Association, and on the 16th August of same year the Sociedad Rural Argentina was formally inaugurated, with Messrs. Martinez de Hoz and Xewton as president and vice, the rest of the board comprising Messrs. Yiton, Oiivera, Temperley, Pereyra, F. Madero, Aguero, Amadeo, Molina, M. Casares, Stegmann, and Castafio : among the other founders of the club ■^vere — 3Iessrs. Urioste, Quirno, Emilio Castro, Arana, Yraola, Judge Carril, Ramos Mejia, Bernal, Cobo, Senillosa, Munilla, Saenz Peua, Yidela Dorna, E. Torres, Posadas, Alegre, R. Pineyro, E. Stegmann, Moujan, Rodriguez, Martinez, Garcia Gonsalez, H. Torres, P. Millan, Bedoya, Fernandez, Galup, and Lezama. The object of the association was declared under the following heads: — 1st. To protect rural interests; 2nd. To improve the pastoral industry ; 3rd. To combine grazing with agriculture ; 4th. To get scientific men to study the best method of drainage and irrigation for the camp; 5th, To ameliorate the condition of the rural inhabitants; 6th. To acclimatise refined breeds of cattle ; 7th. To promote agricultural studies ; 8th. To improve agricultural implements and dwellings; 9th. To study the curing of beef for exportation ; 10th. To introduce useful seeds and plants ; 11th. To establish relations Avith foreign markets; r2th. To study the economic resources of the country. The society has been productive of great benefits to the industrial interests of the country, especially in causing the repeal of oppressive laws or duties. To its efforts are due, among other acts, the removal of import dues from salt used fcr saladeros, and the permission to export washed sheepskins at no higher duties than are charged for the unwashed. Moreover, the society publishes a monthly review containing important articles on the staple industries of Buenos Ayres, "with valuable information and correspondence from foreign countries : this tends in a notable manner to keep alive public attention on such matters. Subscribers to the association pay ^SOOm^. entrance fee, and 3^0 a month : there are also honorary or corresponding members, and the society is in relation with most of the similar associations in England, Germany, and the United States. There are at present 234 active members in Buenos Ayres. The society was first established in a house next the Post-ofiice, Calle Bolivar : its present residence is at No. 92 Calle Peru. The reading-room has a good supply of newspapers, and a library of industrial works in English, French, German, &c., including the United States Patent-office Reports, and other valuable publications: the club-room, billiard-room, 80 BANKS AND COMPANIES. and secretary's apartments are neatly arranged, with portraits of eminent Argentines and pictures of the leading sheep wcabailas)) of Germany. There is a black-board in the hall, to mark the current prices of horned cattle, sheep, land, &c. The society permits the newly-established Jockey Club to have the use of its rooms. The Caj a de Credito is a joint-stock discount bank, established in 1865, under the management of M. Montravel, with a capital of §2,800,000 in 14,000 shares of §200, or £40 each, all paid up. It has given very profitable results, the annual dividend being usually 15 per cent. INSURANCE AND JOINT-STOCK COMPANIES. The Bienhechora del Plata is a savings-bank and insurance association, founded in 185i by the leading capitalists, foreign and Argentine," and specially authorized by the National Government, in decree dated May 7th, 1864. The investments of the company are exclusively in Government 6 per cent. Bonds which are bought at prices varying from 40 to 50, thus giving over 12 per cent, per annum. Deposits are received from £1 a year up to any amount, in weekly, monthly, or yearly instalments, and the profits are liquidated every five years. There are three manners of subscribing : 1st. With loss of capital by death of insured. 2nd. Without loss of capital but with loss of interest in such event. 3rd. Subscriptions in deposit Avith compound interest. The 1st class of subscribers enjoy their share of compound interest on the bonds purchased by the Company ; also a part of the capital forfeited by those of this class who may die ; also a part of the interest belonging to those who have died. The 2nd class enjoy compound interest in the 6 per cent Government bonds; also their proportion of the interest-moneys forfeited by those of this class who have died. The 3rd class simply gain compound interest on the bonds, for the profits are capitalized every three months, and new bonds purchased. The system of insurance is exactly the reverse of what is customary in England. Thus if a father insure his child for ten or twenty years and that it die in the interim, everything is lost, unless specially enrolled in the 2nd class. 3Ieantime there is always the option of withdrawing one's capital and profits at the expiration of every five years. Of course the largest profits accrue to the class that incurs the risk of forfeiting all by death. Deparcieux's mortality tables shew an almost incredible profit in such cases, when the first investment yields 12 per cent, per annum. Thus by payment of $100, or £20, per annum for a child between the ages of one ISSURAIS'CE COMPANIES. 8 If and fifteen, the sum accumulated at the endof twenty-five years mil be over £7,000 and under £8,000 sterling. Parties insuring between the ages of 15 and 40 will find nearly the same results, but those over 40, if they survive 25 years, will reap still greater profits. A man of 20, for example, paying £20 a year, will find himself at 25 worth £200 ; at 30 £600 ; at 35, £1,600 ; at 40, £3,400 ; and at 45 he will have £7,400. As regards tlie 2nd class of subscribers, who do not risk their capital, the profits may be estimated at one-eighth less than those of the 1st class.^ The office of the Company is at 118 Calle Piedad; manager, Don Francisco F. Moreno. Among the founders were Messrs., Arocena, Benites, Cabal, Casares, Holterhoff, Gandara, Iturraspe, Lumh.. Martinez ae Hoz, Leal, Miro. Mata, Ochoa, Tomkinson, and Zumaran. The subscribers number 3,000, more than half of whom are foreign residents. At the close of 1868 the amount of subscribed capital. was about £600,000 sterling, and the nominal value of bonds purchased Avas almost £200,000. The legal residence of the Company is in Buenos Ayres, but there are agents in Montevideo and other towns of the River Plate. Bankers— the Provincial Bank of Buenos Ayres. GoAernment-inspector — Don Jose Maria Cantilo. The Argentine Marine Insurance Companij^ 1 18 Calle Piedad, was established in 1859, and under the management of Don Francisco F. Moreno, has given the most splendid results. The capital is $1,024,000 s., but may be increased to $2,000,000, in shares of $ 1 ,000, or £200 each. The founders were Messrs. Armstrong, Casares, Iturraspe, Lezica, Paraviciui, Tomkinson, Lurab, and others, who had their statutes approved by Government in October, 1860. The whole of the stoik is held up by forty shareholders, and shares are very difficult to be obtained. The company insures vessels both for the rivers and the high seas. The Estrella Marine and Fire Insurance Covipanfj, 118 Calle Piedad, was established in October, 1865, its statutes being duly sanctioned, with a capital of $2,000,000 s. , under the management of Don Francisco F. Moreno. The company insures all manner of properties against fire, at a fixed rate, and offers the following prizes to fire-engines arriving at a fire : $10 to the first, $20 to the second, $20 for the first barrel of water, and $4 for each of five following; also a reward of $4 to the person who first brings to the office news of a fire in any part of the town. The founders of the •Company were Messrs. Demarchi,- Ochoa, Lumb, Armstrong, Martinez de Hoz, Bustamante, Zumaran, and others. In June 1866 the company obtained legal permission to make maritime insurance also a branch of their business, and now they insure vessels for ocean or river traffic. The Protectora Americana^ 21 Calle Las Piedras, was established in 1868, T 8 2 BANKS AND COMPANIES. for life insurance at a fixed rate, authorized capital ^2, 000, 000, the originators of the Company being Dr. Roque Perez, and Messrs. Zuraaran, Belaustegui, Pico, and Mercenaro, and the managei- Don Pablo Montravel. The Company gives policies payable on decease of the insured party, or pensions for old age, on payment of a premium, yearly, quarterly,, or monthly. The River Plate Telegraph Compamj was established in 1864 (see page 107 of Section A) an^ the cable laid across from Punta Lara to Colonia in October 186G, the line being inaugurated soon afterwards, The stock is held up among a few shareholders, and the dividend for 1868 was declared at 20 per cent. There is* a great business done between Buenos Ayres and Montevideo, and since 1868 the telegraph lines of the Northern and Southern rail^vays have come to form branches. The head-office is at Montevideo, Calle Las Piedras, and the central station at Buenos Ayres, Calle Cangallo ; the intermediate stations being Colonia, San Jose and Hosario Colony in Banda Oriental. Messages can also be sent to or from any station on the Northern and Southern railways. Mr. Oldham is the superintendent and manager : the ofiices at Montevideo and Buenos Avres are open on all week days from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m., and on Sundays for an hour in the morning and another in the evening, for charges, &c. see advertisement. The River Plate Credit Mohilier Company has been recently established, the statutes having been approved by the Governor and Provincial Legislature on November 6, 1868, with a capital of g 12,000,000 in 120,000 shares of ^100, or £20, each. Among the founders of the Company are Blanco del Yalle, Emilio Castro, Agote, Saavedra, Marcenaro, Teofilo Mendez, M. Casares, Moreno, Adrogue, Andres Lamas, Arocena, and Anjel Texo. Besides ordinary banking transactions the sphere of the Company is to comprehend loans, railways, immigration, and other public enterprises ; there Avill be branches at Montevideo, Bio Janeyro, Lisbon, Madrid, Barcelona, Paris,| Marseilles, Bordeaux, London, Southampton, Liverpool, and Genoa. The legaljdomicile of the Company is in Buenos Ayres. The Commercial Rooms, situate at No. 69 Calle Mayo. This is a very old and useful institution, belonging to Mr. Daniel Maxwell; it possesses the double advantage of a first-class reading-room and an observatory furnished with the best telescopes in the River Plate. Besides local and English papers, Ave find the leading German, French, Spanish and American journals and magazines. The observatory contains a collection of charts, signal books, &c., and the Avindovvs command an unrivalled view of the port and shipping. The azotea or roof offers a pleasant promenade. Every STEAMBOAT COMPA>IES. 83 kind of commercial inforraatiou for the city is here procured, a slate is kept with daily maritime lists, and letters from Montevideo and elsewhere will be found with last trade reports, on the reading room table. The s ubscription is $200 per quarter, but ship-masters, supercargoes, pilots, naval officers, and several local authorities are admitted gratis. Visitors' tickets may also be obtained. The entrance to the Rooms is in Calle Mayo, and there is a staircase leading out on ihe beach. Mr. Maxwell is the best authority in town on industrial statistics. * The South American Steam Navigation Company, 36^ Calle Cuyo, has steamboat lines on all the rivers, Mr. William Matti being the principal shareholder : the capital is 300,000 hard dollars, in shares of $ 1 ,000 each, all paid up. The line is well managed, the steamers are commodious, and the last dividend was 15 per cent. There are six steamers weekly to Eosario, two to Corrientes and Paraguay, three to Parana, four to San Nicolas, one to Zarate and San Pedro, one to Gualeguay, two up the river Uruguay, and two to Montevideo. The Riode la Plata Steam Company, founded in 1866 by Don Juan Jose Mendez and others, despatches a vessel to Paraguay, Corrientes, and intermediate ports. The Estrella Steamboat Company, founded by Captain Da vies, plies to Rosario and the smaller ports. There are in Buenos Ayres several other insurance and steamboat companies of which we have no particulars. There are also agencies for Chilian and English life assurance companies, and branch-baiks of establishments that will come to be mentioned in treating of theProvinces. The agencies of the English and French steamboat lines cannot be included in this chapter of local institutions. There are various associations of a mutual and friendly character, such as the Typographic Society the Spanish Mutual Aid Association, the Cricket Club, the Oddfellows, the British Clerks, the Philharmonic Society, the Masonic Fraternity, the Athletic- Club, the Jockey Club, the Italian Benevolent Society, the St. Vincent de Paul Confraternity, &c. The British Clerks' Provident Association Avas founded by Mr. F. M. Wells and other mercantile gentlemen on September 1 st, 1 86 1 . Although limited in number it has been successful in a monetary sense, the annual dividends ranging from 12 to IS percent. In March 1868 there were twenty -nine members, holding 218 shares, which amounted to $5,263 s., and $176,343 paper, or an aggregate of <£2,400 sterling. The society meets at the British Library. Each share represents a subscription of $2 silver, or $50m() ; tlie association is of especial benefit in giving habits of economy to younger clerks. T2 8i BANKS AND COMPANIES- The Typographic Society provides a sick and burial fund for printers ; the Spanish and Italian societies support their sick or distressed countrymen ; the Philliarmonic Club gives concerts at the Coliseum : the Vincent de Paul Society visits and relieves the poor and sick throughout the city. The Oddfellows Society numbers about seventy members, and is of a mutual aid character: the lodge room is situate at No, 96 Independencia. The members have an annual dinner in the month of March. The Cricket and Athletic jCluhs have their grounds at Palermo, where matches and meetings come off at certain periods. A stand-house and tent have been erected, and the festivities are sometimes attended by as many as 5,000 ladies and gentlemen, mostly foreign residents. The Freemason Lodges are very numerous, comprising Argentine, English, French and Italian circles. The English lodge gives its annual dinner on June 24th at the Provence Hotel. In the Museum is preserved a diploma of a Dublin lodge, called after St. Patrick, and bearing date as far back as the last century. President Sarmiento, General Mitre, and General Urquiza are free-masons. The Jtckey Club, founded in 1868, for the purpose of promoting in this country horse-racing, meets at present in the rooms of the Sociedad Eural, and numbers sixty members. Members of the club only are allowed to enter and ride horses. The committee i^ as follows : — Honorary President and Vice-President, their Excellencies President Sarmiento and Vice-President Alsina; Chairman, Don Carlos Casares; Vice-Chairman, H. Tomkinson, Esq. ; Secretary, G. P. Craufurd, Esq. ; Treasurer, F. Plowes, Esq.; W, Welchman, Esq., Dr. B. Irigoyen, Don H. F. Varela, Don A. C. Cambaceres, Don E, Oldendorff. The first meeting was held at Randairs, near tlie Jeppener Station of the Southern llailway, on the 8th and 9th of September, 1868. The Provincial Government gave a prize silver cup, value ^5,000, wliich was won by H. Tomkinson, Esq., with Gauchito beating Old Warden and Cochin China, belonging respectively to W. Welchman, Esq., and W. M'Clymont, Esq. It is intended to hold for the present two meetings annually in Belgrano, one in the autumn and another in the spring. But as soon as the funds of the Club will permit the necessary outlay, a piece of ground Avill be purchased in one of the suburbs of the city with the intention of forming a race-course with grand stand and pleasure grounds for the use of the members and their families. THE SUBURBS. S5 CHAP. YIII. THE SUBURBS. TuERE are three principal suburbs, Tiz., Belgrano, Flores, and Barracas : the first two are fashionable outlets much frequented in the summer mouths; the last-iiamed is an industrial entrepot situated on the Biachuelo. AH three are connected by rail Avith the city, and boast numerous beautiful quintas. BELGRASO. This charming town is two leagues distant from the city by the Northern Railway, and has become in a few years one of the prettiest places in the River Plate. It was founded in 1854 by Don Santiago Tobal, during the administration of Governor Alsina, and called after a distinguished Argentine General who fought in the War of Independence. The situation is pleasant, on a high ground about a mile from the river ; the number of quintas belonging to the leading families of the city is very considerable, those of Messrs. Alsina, Amorins, Guerin, Matti, Plowes, Esteves Segui, Arriola, Agrelo, Bosch, Berger, Calvo, Costa, Demot, Antigues, Arzeno, Androguez, Elias, Fusoni, Gowlaud, Francischelli, Hartenfels, Itur^-aspe, Miro, Newton, Oliver, Pelvilain, Piaggio, Ravier, Solanet, Saavedra, Haycroft, Llambi, Benn, James Brown, Wells, Rossi, Lamas, &c., being among the most remarkable. On the hill overlooking the railway is a tasteful little chapel, in front of which are some venerable 86 THE SUBURBS. Ombiies. This chapel has become too small for the congregation, and a large church is being erected in the Plaza. On the east side of the Plaza is the public school, built in the Grecian style. At the next corner is the Juzgado. No one is allowed to gallop through the streets of the town. At the west end is the race-course, where the foreign and Argentine racing clubs hold their meetings periodically : there is a fine stand house, and the course is nine furlongs round ; the meetings are always attended by all the wealth and fashion of Buenos Ayres. The Rev. Mr. Goodfellow has an English school in the town, for which the Provincial Government allows a monthly subsidy of $2,000 ; it was founded in August 1867, and is under the charge of, Mr. John T. Thompson : the system of instruction is that of the United States' schools, and comprises the elements of a commercial education, science, modern languages, Greek and Latin ; this school is very useful in the summer months, when so many foreign families come here for the season. In winter Belgrano is all but deserted, but at the approach of the hot season, in November, the most extravagant rents are demanded; houses which may be bought for £1,000, commonly fetch £200 or £300 for the summer months. Watson's hotel, close to the railway station, is a first-rate English house, good wines and cookery, and everything very neat. On Sunday mornings parties often come out for breakfast ; the garden attached to the hotel covers several acres. Adjoining the station is a croquet ground or promenade ; a band plays here every Sunday evening. A tramway is projected to connect Belgrano with the city, running along the barranca; this would give a cheaper mode of transit than the present railway charge. In summer there are twelve trains daily to and from Belgrano. The partido of Belgrano comprehends a number of chacras or farms ; in some we see wheat and vegetables cultivated on a large scale ; in others there are fine breeds of horses and cattle. This district was formerly included in the partido of San Isidro, but it now has a distinct Municipality, Justice of Peace, and Curate, whose jurisdiction extends half way to the city, and includes Palermo, once the residence of Rosas. From a statistical report in 1867 we take the following figures : — Belgrano has 63 chacras with an aggregate of 2,000 acres, 230 azotea houses, 150 do. with straw roof, four draperies and eighteen grocery stores ; the farming stock is not numerous, comprising only 1,400 horned cattle, 1.420 horses, 200 sheep, and 300 swine; the population is set down at 2,946, National Guards 280, Alcaldes and police 37 ; the Municipality is composed of six members. According to the educational returns we find the State school is attended by 78 boys and 89 girls, showing an increase of nearly double the returns of 1864. PALERMO. 87 • PALERMO. This place was the residence of Rosas, once surrounded with beautiful gardens and plantations, but now it is a miserable ruin, the palace falling lo decav, the fences destroyed, the timber cut down, and the whole place a scene of desolation. During many years Rosas devoted much attention to the grounds, with the view of making Palermo the finest residence in South America : he had a number of men provided with tooth-brushes employed in keeping the trees free of insects, and the gardens contained the choicest fruits and flowers. Shady avenues led down to the water's side ; nothing was spared that taste and wealth could devise ; the palace itself was a handsome Moorish structure, with colonnade on all sides ; the apartments were large, lofty, and richly decorated. Here the t^Tant held his court for many years, till the battle of Gaseros, 3rd February, 1852, resulted in his overthrow. General Urquiza established his headquarters in Palermo on the folIoAving day. In 1856 Seuor Posadas got up an Agricultural Exhibition here, but the hatred to the name of Rosas seems to have prevented any efforts towards keeping the place from ruin. So late as 1859 the principal avenue, with its lofty rows of trees, was intact. In 1862 3Ir. Paris proposed to make Elysean Gardens here, but the project fell through. It was, however, still the favorite resort of the wealth and fashion of Buenos Ayres on summer evenings, when the Palermo road was always thronged with horsemen and gay equipages. Subsequently the Municipality of Belgrano sold some of the timber for firewood, and the work of destruction was actively begun : the palace was next let out for a boarding-school — Escucla de Artes — the proprietor of which built up the beautiful colonnades w ith unsightly bricks (not even plastered) , and left the place an ugly wreck, fit only for owls to make tiieir abode in. It is painful to walk through the ruined halls: the library, parlor, and dining-room may still be traced, and the ball-room (100 feet by 20 feet) forms one side of the quadrangle. The azotea has a view of the city and roadstead. The only plantation remaining is on the river's side : here duels are sometimes fought. The ISorthern Railw ay runs through the park, and near the station is the English Cricket ground : a little further is the new pcwder mill of Messrs. Liesenberg & Co., a wing cf which blew up in 1867 ; it is now working Avell. The road from Palermo to town was the only decent highway in the country till very recently, but now it is as bad as the rest, and the neat iron fences are all broken down. Messrs. Lezica & Co. have started a wgraseriaw for melting down sheep, near the Rifl^eros, which will be most 88 THE SUBURBS. injurious to the water supply taken from the River Plate a few perches^ lower down. These works have been recently put up by Mr. Coghlan, C.E., for the Provincial Government, at a cost of £50,000, and can distribute 1,300,000 gallons of filtered water daily through the city. Passing the Recoleta we find a series of charming quintas along the ((barranca)) all the way into town. Whitfield's is one of the finest ; it was built in 182.3 by Mr. Wilson alias Whitfield, who had been a soldier at St. Helena and, coming to Buenos Ayres, established the first English apothecary's shop in this city. The Klappenbach quintas are occupied by Englisli families : the grounds have been recently sold out in building lots. The Povero I^iavolo is a well-known tavern, with bowling-alleys, &c. Just below the fine quinta of Senor Estrada is Chassaing's new steam-laundry^ a first-class establishment, provided with the most improved American machinery : it is quite a boon to the city, which formerly depended solely on black washerwomen. We have now reached the terminus of the Northern Railway, in the Paseo Guardia Nacional, as the adjacent thicket of willow-trees is called- The battery (ca fleur d'eau)) has six guns for firing salutes. FLORES. San Jose de Flores is nearly t\w leagues from town by the Western Railway, and situated on a gently rising ground, with a fine view of the camps westward. The village takes its name from the founder, Don Juan Diego Flores, who ceded the ground for the purpose, and commenced a small chapel thereon. In 1808 Rishop Lue formed it into a parish out of the territory of San Isidro, the first curates being Don Simon Rustamante and Don Miguel Garcia. The place began to attain some importance under Don xVntonio Millan, who marked out the building lots and projected the building of the church. On the 11th December 1831, the church was consecrated by Rishop Med ran o ; it consists of three naves, and measures 120 feet long by 50 feet wide. Amongst the principal benefactors were Messrs. Terrero and Roneo. In this church was signed the treaty of 1859 between General Urquiza and the city of Ruenos Ayres. Half a century ago Flores was the favorite suburb, but it suffered severely during the civil wars up to 1859. Since that time it has revived a little, and there are now many pretty quintas along the line of railway. The high road has been allowed to fall into such decaj as to become almost intransitable. The partido is small, comprising only six square leagues of land, now exclusively occupied in gardens, meadows, or grain farms. So late as the SAK JOSE DE FLORES. 8^ year 1 855 there were «rodeos)) of cattle in this partido. The town is a straggling place ; on the south side of the Plaza is the church with its two belfries ; on the east side the public school, a fine building with Grecian front and portico. There are 979 houses, of which 593 have azotea roofs, four are dry-goods stores, and eighty-three grocery and general ware stores. There are 422 chacras, covering about 9^000 acres; the farming stock comprises 2,472 horned cattle, 4,232 horses, 5,320 sheep, including 500 Saxony do., and 1,332 swine. At Caballito the traveller will admire the fine edifice occupied by 3Ir. Negrotto's school. On the road we remark the quintas of many wealthy city residents. Before reaching Flores a pretty cottage with gothic gables arrests our attention ; it belonged for many years to the amiable and accomplished Manuelita Bosas, who fled to England on the downfall of her father, but still keeps the place in the utmost neatness and style. The prettiest quintas are those near the railway. Mr. Boyd's, called «Rose-hill,)) is a delightful place, formerly the country-house of Mr. Parody ; the gardens cover about six acres: on the opposite side of the railway isDorrego's quinta, Avhere General Urquiza had his head-quarters in 1859. Between the Caballito and Flores stations are the quintas of the eminent financier, Seuor Ricstra, of Dr. Pardo, Seuor Terrero, and many others. That of Narco del Pont, at the Flores station, presents a beautiful spectacle in Spring, beings surrounded and festooned with roses. About 500 yards westward is the delightful residence of Mr. David Methven, who bought the place in 1867 from Seuor Coquet: the latter gentleman had expended a great deal of money, during sixteen years, to render this quinta what it now is ; the grounds are interspersed with shady bowers, fountains, flower -knots, vineries, hot-houses, statuary, &c. and the view of fields and meadows on all sides brings vivid recollections of English farm scenery. South of the railway there are also two fine quintas, belonging to Mr. John Hughes and Mr. Stegnian ; the latter is occupied by Mr. H. A. Green. ?fearer to the village are the cottages of Mr. Neild, Mr. Forrester, the late Dr. Leslie, and other foreign residents. Flores was once very famous for its cock-pit, and crowds would assemble on Sundays to witness the sport; but, of late years, cock- fighting has gone out of fashion, much to the regret of the «pulperos.» There is a respectable Club of young men here in the summer months, when balls are often given on Sunday evenings. It is not easy to find houses to rent for the summer months, but building-lots may be had very cheap, and many families reside here all the year round. The population of the district is set down as follows: Argentines 2,841, Italians 1,641, French 355, Spaniards 330, English 169, Germans 40, Indians 2, various 87 — Total 90 THE SUBURBS. 5,435. The State schools are attended by 91 boys and 126 girls, shewing an increase of one-third over the returns for 1863. Flores has a Justice of Peace, a municipality composed of six members, 463 National Guards, and fifty-eight Alcaldes and policemen. There is no hotel in the place, and the shops are of an inferior order. Dr. Fitzsiraons had an Irish college here in 1865, but he has since removed to the province of Entre-Rios. General Gelly-Obes has a quinta near Caballito, and Dr. Velez Sarsfield's is near Alraagro. The Italian «chacreros)) raise beautiful fields of lucerne, which give splendid hay-crops : they also make much money by fruit and vegetables. The district of Flores is a succession of gardens, orchards, country-houses, &c. from the moment we leave the Plaza Once de Setiembre till we reach Floresta. DARK A CAS. Barracas is just one league south from the Plaza Yictoria, and was at the beginning of the present century a charming outlet much frequented by English families. Thus from Horn's hill, where Mr. Mackinlay resided,. we pass a number of quintas, en route southwards, most of which were built by Englishmen. The Yellow House, at the turn of the road to the Boca, was built by Mr. N., who made a fortune in Paraguay, and from whose heirs it has passed into the hands of Mr. Ackerley : it was, originally three stories high, but has now only two. Hard by was a brick factory, belonging to Mr. Billinghurst and others, which was given up in 1866: strange to say, this was the spot where the early Spaniards made their first bricks, whence the hill was called Barranca de Hornos (ovens) : the name Horn's Hill is not derived from the coincidence that Mr. Horn resided here, having been so called from the earliest times. Waterloo quinta, below the British Hospital, was built by Mr. Brittain, and is now the residence of Messrs. Krabbe and Williamson. A few hundred yards westward Ave reach a fine old English mansion : it was built by the late distinguished hero, Admiral Brown, and two old cannons, probably taken from the Brazilians, are seen at the entrance ; the quinta was purchased from the Admiral's widoAV in 1861, by Mr. Nowell, whose family still resides here. On the barranca of Calle Buen Orden is the Balcarce quinta: here Admiral Coe lived for a time, and it is at present tenanted by Mr. Banfield. In 1865 the quinta was cut up for building, and the splendid Instituto Sanitario is built on this ground. The adjoining quinta belongs to Seuor Gonsalez Moreno, who has rented it to Mr. Zimmermann. At the foot of Calle Buen Orden is the Suarez quinta, for some time an English grammar school, kept by the late Mr. Pongerard: it at present belongs to Mr. BARRACAS. 91 Holterhofl Opposite to the Balcarce quinta is tliat of Seiior Carabaceres, which is bouaded by Langdon's fields, and is famous for delicious fruit. Further west, beyoad the Southern Railway, is the Convalecencia, formerly the residence of Mr. Barton ; and close to this is the Saenz-Yaliente quinta, built by an Englishman in the last century, with very pretty garden and grounds. There are some cannon balls in the roof and chimney, a souvenir of the siege of Buenos Ayres in 1853. The chapel of Santa Lucia, in the CalleLarga, is quaint and qld-fashioned ; it was formerly the chapel of an estanciero whose herds of horned cattle roamed over the site now occupied by Bariacas, and whose estancia house is still seen (now a butcher's shop) at the Banderita corner. The feast of Santa Lucia occurs in December, and the Calle Larga is lighted with bonfires on the. occasion. Yidela's quinta is worthy of notice, as also a fashionable house built in the Louis Quatorze style by M. Vignal. There is another pleasant country house belonging to tlie wealthy family of Llavallol. Fronting the plaza of Santa Lucia is the elegant quinta of the Senillosa family : there are fountains, statues, arbors, &c., and at the end of the garden, in the rear of the kouse, we fiud a grotto and a tea-house, from the top of which there is a fine view. The Botet quintas come next, and opposite these is that of Mrs.Carreras, overgrown with weeds and fruit trees run wild. The Banderita is an ancient pulperia, famous for its horse races on Sunday afternoons : here branches off a road that leads down to the Calle Sola. The first quinta on the left was once the property of a lady named B , a beauty in her day, who afterwards died in the public hospital : an Italian gardener now lives here. A little further, on the right, is the entrance to Saenz A'aliente's quinta, where the first sod of the Southern Railway was turned, on the 8th March, 1864 : the first saladero in the country was established here in the eighteenth century. Next comes Mrs. Oliver's quinta, and in front that of Dr. Casajemas, who has a beautiful nursery and some fine fruit. Returning to the Calle Larga, we meet, on the right, the delightful cottage and gardens of Don Juan Antonio Fernandez ; next, the country house of Sefior Subiaurre, built in Italian style ; the quinta of ex-Minister Elizalde ; and opposite these the Miguens' quintas, seven in number, the first belonging to Minister Avellaneda. Passing the Segovia quinta we come to that of the Atkin's family : old Mr. Atkins was an American citizen who lent £20,000 to equip the first Argentine fleet, under Admiral Brown ; he died in poverty, of a broken heart, but his family got paid in 1865. The steariue candle factory of Messrs. Holterhoff & Co. is an important establish- ment, provided with the most improved machinery : it w as inaugurated, ia 92 THE SUBUllBS. presence of the chief authorities, ia 1856, and produces excellent candles; some samples were seut to* the Paris Exhibition of 18G7: the factory is under the immediate supervision of Mr. Holterhoff, and most of the work- men are French or Germans. Next is the handsome quinta of the Herrera family, in which ground was commenced the new church of Santa Lucia, in 1863: the design was too vast, the walls having only got 4 feet high, and it is not likely the work will ever be carried out, although a church is much needed here. The candle and soap factories of Sefior Mafie and Don Julio Arditi, and the quintas of Rebol and Silvestre, intervene before reaching the castellated residence of the late Sefior Escribano : this is an imitation of some feudal castle seen by Sefior E. in his travels on the Rhine ; he died in 1862, leaving a large fortune to an infant daughter. This part of the Calle Larga is a favorite «promcnade a chevab) on moonlight nights in summer. The Torres quinta is at the corner of Calle California, crossing which we come to the Fabrica del Incendio, so called because Sefior Sansinena had the misfortune to be twice burned down : it is a soap and candle factory. On the left side of the Calle Larga is Alzaga's quinta, now a soap factory, and a feAV steps further is the Tres Esquinas Railway Station. The Barracas Club has very commodious premises, with billiard- tables, reading-room, salle-a-manger, etc., but the dreadful miasma produced by the saladeros and myriads of poisoned fish, on the banks of the Eiachuelo, pollutes the atmosphere in this neighborhood. The village of INorth Barracas has little to recommend it, consisting of surdry ubarracas)) for storing produce, a few liquor shops, and a State school. The streets are often impassable in wet weather, although this is the great higMvay to the south. Cattle for the city markets are sometimes brought in by the Calle Sola, to the great risk of the foot passengers. At the bridge a toll is collected from passengers in coaches or on horseback : a new iron bridge is in course of erection, besides a railway bridge for Mr. Wheelwright's line to Ensenada. West of the bridge is a group of houses called San Antonio. Most of the inhabitants here, and throughout Barracas, are Basques or Italians : thirty years ago there was a large Irish population, employed in the saladeros of Brown, Dowdall, Armstrong, Cambaceres, Downes, «fec., but they are now mostly estancieros in the camp. The great industry of Barracas consists in its saladeros, of which there are sixteen, beginning at the Puente Alsina. The saladero is a place fitted up for the killing of cows and mares, salting the beef and hides, and boiling down the sheep and mares' flesh to extract the grease. In former years as many as 10,000 cows and mares have been slaughtered in a day, in the busy season, but owing to the depreciation of jerked beef, and the BARRACAS. 93 increased taxes and expenses, this business is now diminished. Since 1866 the rendering down of sheep has become a great business, amounting to 200,000 head monthly. For many years the Riachuelo river has been used as a sewer to carry off the offal and filth of the saladeros, and the «raalaria» arising herefrom lias been most prejudicial to public health : the water of the river is often blood-red and poisons all the fish. In 1862 an Artesian well was sunk by Messrs. Sordeaux and Legout to cleanse the saladeros, but it failed m this purpose. In 1868, during the cholera, public indignation forced Government to close the saladeros for a period, but they still continue their pestilential labors, although a decree has been passed for their removal at a future date. Saladeros have afforded a staple trade from the earliest time of the Spaniards when the horned cattle were killed in millions, merely for their hides : in the present century a trade sprung up with Cuba and Brazil for jerked beef, which is exported thither in large quantities. The celerity with which the saladeros work is so great that 500 head are slain, cut up, salted, &c., in a few hours, with a comparatively small number of peons. The flesh is first hung in strips, to dry in the sun, and then put in an immense salted pile, previous to shipment. The peons earn from $10 to $200 a day, according to their skill. Between Puente Alsiua and the Barracas Bridge there are six saladeros, viz. : those of Anderson, Lopez, Lezama, Cobo, Pereyra, and Medrano & Panthou. Those below the bridge are all on the south side of the Riachuelo, viz.: Llambi, Sautamaria & Llambi, Cambaceres. Saavedra, Mufioa, Herrera & Baudrix, Berisso, Soler, Seuillosa, and Cambaceres. The killing season usually begins in November, and ends in May, and the «faena)) sometimes amounts to 400,000 head of cattle. The returns of the total «faena» in the River Plate for 1867 were as follows: Uniffiiaf/ Jiepitblic. Montevideo, .... 317,000 i Saladero Quemado, 36,000 Fray Bentos, .... 66,000 Salto, 25.000 Bomau, 32,000 Casa Blanca, 48,000 Arroyo Negro, 63,000 Sacra, .... 31,000 Total, 648,000 Mercedes, .... 30,000 Argentine Bepvbltc. Concordia, .... 32,000 Buenos Ayres, .... 444,000 Gualeguaychu, 77,000 Gualeguay, Rosario, .... 54,ooa 40,000 Total, 661,000 Parana , .... 1 4,000 Grand total, .... 1,309,000 94 THE SUBURBS. The traveller should not omit to visit the iron girder bridge and specious workshops of the Southern railway, about 400 yards above the Barracas bridge : the bridge is one of the finest Avorks of the kind in the continent. Hard-by is the Wool-Avashing factory of Mr. Isaac Rick: these works, which have been just completed, are situated about midway between the old Barracas bridge and the bridge of the Ferro-Carril del Sud on the north side of the Riachuclo. They form an entirely new industry : the wool from its usually dirty and greasy state, is converted into a material so •white, clean, and free from «carretilla)) and «abrojo,)) and all other foreign matter, as to be scarcely recognized by those unacquainted with the process, and rendered perfectly fit for the spinners' hands on arrival in England, France, or Germany. Sorting Room — The wool in its dirty state from the shed in the yard having first been assorted here into several classes according to the length of staple and various qualities of the wool, is taken into the Scouring Room. Here it is first placed in a steeping trough containing hot-water and ingredients of a saponaceous kind, for the purpose of softening what is termed the «yolk)) and loosing the dirt. Afterwards it is placed on the feeder of the scouring machine which, revolving, carries the wool into the trough of the machine holding hot-w^ater and a scouring- liquid, wliich is kept at a regular temperature by means of pipes bringing steam from the boiler. The wool is carried forward in this trough by means of rakes to a cylinder which lifts the wool on to a feeder, carrying it forward to rollers, wliich, by means of great pressure, squeeze the water from it and render it ready for the Drying Room. In this room is a machine having a very powerful fan, making 800 revolutions per minute. The wool having been spread on the open work, the fan is set in motion, and by means of the dry-air being drawn through the wool into the fan chamber, the moisture from the wool is carried thence by means of a flue, to the outside of the galpon, and the wool is in a short time rendered dry and lit for the next process. Willowing and Burring Room — In the first of these, in a machine designated in England in common parlance a devil, the wool is next placed, and by means of a cylinder revolving rapidly (the teeth in which pass through the fixed teeth in the machine) any dirt which may have remained is separated from the wool and by a fan, carried through a fiue to the outside of the galpon. In a short time the wool is ready for the burring machine, which is of a new and most successful kind. This machine being fed, the wool is carried through rollers revolving in different directions, whence it is taken by a cylinder on to a steel hooked roller revolving rapidly in one direction, so close to another smaller fluted roller revolving in the other direction, as to extract from the wool all BARRACAS. 95 wcarretilla,)) v(abrojo,» and any other extraneous matter. Above this are revolving brushes, which take the wool from the hooked roller, at the same time brushing off every particle of dust, which is carried off by means of a powerful fan through a flue leading out of the roof of the buildiug, leaving the wool most delicately clean and fit for manufacturing purposes : it is then taken to the Packing-room and there baled for exportation. The engine, of ten-horse power, is fixed between the drying and press rooms, and by means of strong shafting and pullies running the entire length of the buildiug, which make 200 revolutions per minute^ the whole machinery and works are set in motion. The boiler and hot-M atei' tank will be placed outside. A large tank or deposit for pumping water into from the river, has been sunk outside the building, lined with zinc, capable of holding water sufficient for nearly a week's use, so as to render the working somewhat independent of the river when low or dirty. Altogether there is an air of compactness and arrangement about the whole establishment, which must commend itself to all business men, At the Tres Esquinas, also, there is a place well worthy of notice ; it is the dockyard of John Marshall, who built the first steamer in the Eiver Plate, the Anglo Argentine, in 18G3. Since then he has built the Era, the Luxan, the Estrella, and other commodious steamers for the passenger traffic of the Pa; ana and Uruguay ; the tonnage of these steamers was as follows : Anglo-Argentino, 30 tons, 8-horse power ; Era, 130 tons, 40 horse power ; Estrella, 45 tons, 1 8-horse power; the interior fittings of these vessels were also done by Marshall, who has a carpenter's shop attached to his iron works; he gives employment to a large number of hands: he also constructed the vessels of light draught for Mr. Seilorans' expedition up the Rio Vermejo. During a quarter of a century this persevering man, who came thither a poor mechanic, has toiled successfully for his adopted country and with great credit to himself, notwithstanding the oppressive duties on iron and coal, which weigh down this industry. THE BOCA. Following the sinuous course of the Riachuelo towards its mouth we pass a number of «barracas)) where a bustling trade is always going on, either receiving produce from the coasting-craft, or baling wool for shipment, or embarking hides, wool and bone-ash in lighters for the vessels in the roadstead. The Llavallol and Balcarce «barracas» are notable for their great size ; next come those of Temperley and Bunge. Near the last named is Mr. Younger's steam «lavadero» for washmg sheepskins, the first 96 THE BOCA. of the kind started in the country : this enterprising Scotchman brought his machinery from England, and began his works very successfully in 1866: since then other alavaderosw have been established, and the Government has in a measure favoured the industry by charging no higher duties on washed wool and sheepskins than on unwashed. We are now in the region of Italian boat builders, and the sounds of the saw and hammer are heard on all sides. This is the Boca, distant about half a league by railway from the city, and consisting of an assemblage of painted wooden houses, in the midst of a rank vegetation. The language of the place is a corrupt Genoese dialect, lumbers of coasting craft from the up river ports, the islands of the Parana, and the Gran Chaco, bring cargoes of oranges, vegetables, charcoal, firewood, &c., for the use of the city ; the master and crew are invariably Italians, and all part owners of both vessel and cargo. The Riachuelo has so many bends that the navigation is most difficult : the tides are treacherous, depending chiefly on the wind, and vessels are sometimes delayed a week or more for want of sufficient draught of water. There is a Captain of the Port, with four subordinates and fifteen sailors. The best stores are those of Casares and Roncoroui Piui. The whole village is at times inundated, the flood reaching as far as the Calle Larga of Barracas : there is also much danger of fire, the houses being of wood. The situation is low, damp, and unwholesome, and the cholera made great havoc here. There is no church for the inhabitants, who are supposed to belong to the parish of San Telrao. The ccommunication with the city is by rail and omnibus, fare §5 and ^3. The inhabitants are orderly and industrious, mostly occupied in building or repairing sm^U vessels of 20 to 100 tons, Avhich trade with all the ports of the Parana and Uruguay. The official returns show that there are thirty of these dockyards, employing 40 master builders, 150 carpenters, 85 caulkers, 9 blacksmiths, and 25 sawyers. In 1864 they built U schooners and 15 smaller craft, with an aggregate tonnage of 876 tons, the timber used being all hard woods, such as urunday, algarroba, quebracho, lapacho, &c., from Paraguay and the Gran Chaco. There are 117 lighters, manned by 465 sailors, constantly engaged between the Boca and the vessels iu port. The returns of coasting trade show 37 steamers and 2,902 schooners entered during the year, with an aggregate of 7 1,474 tons. Mr. Hodge and Mr. Sherman have foundries on the south side of the stream, with which there is a ferry. For some time the superannuated war steamers of the Republic might be seen heref, as also the «drag)) brought out by Government for cleansing the port, but which was suffered to stick lisrc uselessly in the mud. In July 1867, the American clergyman, Rev. SOUTH BARRACAS. 97 W. Goodfellow, started a school for both sexes in the Boca. If, before leaving this industrious neighborhood, tjie stranger have time to visit Younger 's lavadero, he will find it well Avorth while. The apparatus for burring and scouring, as also the baling press, are driven by steam power. The machinery is of the best description, and the scene is very animated when all is in full play. There are twenty men constantly employed, who can turn out 300 dozen sheepskins and 300 arrobes washed wool per day. Mr. Younger obtained a prize at the Paris Exhibition, the only one given for this industry in South America : his residence is adjoining the works, which are about to be enlarged to meet the increased demand : the estab- lishment stands on eight acres. It seems clearly ascertained that the first Spanish discoverers made their landing at the Boca. There is a Resguardo at the mouth of the Riachuelo, to prevent smuggling: the adjacent grounds, south side, are the property of Mr. Demarchi. Most of the lands on the north side belonged to the Brittain family, but were sold by auction in 1865, the purchaser being Mr. Charles Jackson. The high- road from the Boca to town has been paved as far as the Yellow House, and is now a great facility to trade. The population of the Boca will probably amount to 3,000. It is situate within the municipal boundary, and has therefore no local authorities. SOUTH BARRACAS. The Barrdcas bridge being the municipal boundary, the district of South Barracas forms a distinct «partido)> of the province, but it is really a suburb of Buenos Ayres. This flourishing village, distant one league from the Plaza Victoria, would be an exceedingly pleasant place bufrfor the smell of the saladeros : these are eleven in number, as already enumerated, and give employment to a large and industrious population. There are some very good shops, and the people have a well-to-do look. The main street, Calle 3Iitre, is wide and well-built, but sometimes almost impassable from wpantanos.)) The church is a fine new building, erected mostly by contributions fi'om the Basques, and has two belfries that are visible several leagues off : there are six side altars, kept remarkably neat by the .several families of Panthou, Gimenez,&c.to whose care they are entrusted. Don Enrique O'Gorman is owner of much landed property hereabout. In Calle Brown there is a «corral)) for pigs, belonging to Senor Soler. Don Lorenzo Torres has some land bordering on the Arroyo Crucecita, which is crossed by travellers going southward, to the Puente Chico and Quilmes. The cemetery of South Barracas is not far from the church. There are u 98 THE SUBURBS. two State-schools, attended by 65 boys and 52 girls. The population in 1864 was estimated at 7,000, including 79 i French, 659 Spaniards, 622 Italians, 47 Germans, 37 English, and the rest Basques or Argentines. There are 207 azotea houses, 11 dry goods' stores, 74 grocery and liquor shops, and 392 thatched houses. Tlie chacras are 214 in number, covering about 4,000 acres of tilled ground: the partido comprises four square leagues, and the stock consists of 2787 horned cattle, 1958 horses, 3,952 sheep (including 168 fine do.) and 2,023 swine. The railway to Ensenada •will follow the line of the high-road towards Quilmes : the fields on either side produce abundant crops of hay. The coast-line is low and marshy, and there is an island called Islade Pescadores, where fugitives from justice sometimes hide themselves. The high-road to the Lomas de Zamorra branches off at the Juzgado, not far from the Barracas bridge. The municipality of South Barracas comprises the Justice of Peace and six. members : there are 50 alcaldes and police, and the district furnishes 372 National Guards. The traveller should pay a visit to the Artesian Well in Cambac^res' saladero, the bore of which is eighty-nine yards deep ; the water is brackish, but said to possess saline qualities, on which account baths are now established here (seepage 107 of Section A). The works were begun in 1859 and concluded in March 1862, the following being the layers penetrated in boring — 1st. Sand for 15 feet, the base being corrupted with filtrations from the salad eros. 2nd. Tough compact sand for 24 feet. 3rd. Very close sand, with veins of «asperon,)) for 2 feet. 4th. Liquid slimy soil for 3 feet. 5th. Dark-blue ochre, easily dissolved^ for 9 feet. 6th. Tosca with calcareous spots, for 8 feet. 7th. Very yellow fluid sand for 5 feet. 8th. Fluid grey sand, with small bits of quartz, and a s^jriug of water, 33 feet. 9th. Fluid sand for 56 feet. 10th. Consistent loam, marine shells, calcareous fragmeiits and crusts of asperon for 56 feet. 11th. Argillaceous sand for 8 feet. 12th. Very hard calcareous layer for 1 2 feet, after Avhich the water rushed up through the tube to a height of 15 feet above the ground, and this was the completion of tiie works, after boring 234 feet. The failure of the well to absorb the blood of the saladeros was said to be owing to the thin texture of the fluid lands. It is proposed to remove the saladeros to Ensenada, ten leagues further south, where a good port can' be made at little trouble or expense, and Mr. Wheelwright's railway will connect the place witii Buenos Ayres. EXCURSIO:!?S BY RAILWAY, 99 CHAP. IX. EXCURSIONS BY RAILWAY. THE NORTHER>' — TO THE TIGRE. The prettiest scenery around Rueuos Avres is found in this route: the distance is about twenty-four miles. The Hue was begun in 1862 by Messrs. Croskey and Murray, of London, the Government giving a guarantee of 7 per cent, on an outlay of £150,000.. It was opened to San Fernando in February 1864 (see page 108 of Section A). The official returns for 18G6 and 1867 are as follows : — 18G6 1867 IN'umber of passengers, 267,792 329,793 Gross receipts, 4,361,979 Working expenses, 3,516,347 Guarantee paid by Government, 1,057,516 .... 466,868 This line has not resiilted favorably, owing to its inferior construct.on, * T\hich has called for constant repairs, making the working expenses exceed 80 per cent, of the gross receipts. It will be seen, nevertheless, that the deficit to be made good by Government was much less in 1867 than in the previous year, r2 100 EXCURSIONS BY RAILWAY. There is a tramway from the Custom-house to the Retiro terminus, a mile in length, the cars running along the Paseo Julio, past the Gas-house, The Retiro terminus is at the foot of the hill on which the city barrack stands. The first section of the line is much exposed to inundations, although partly protected from the river by a plantation of willows, among which you will see numbers of black women washing clothes. On the left we have a pleasant view of the quintas built along the «barranca.» Mme. Frebourg has a French boarding-school, after which comes Riglos's quinta, where General Whitelocke signed the capitulation of his army, in 1807; it is now the property of Scnor Estrada, whose splendid two-story mansion is the next object. Below the quinta of Dr. Lorenzo Torres is the new Steam-laundry, close to which is the tavern of Povero Diavolo. Slappenbach's quinta is now cut up, and yonder was the former residence of Consul Parish, commanding a delightful view of the river. So does AVhitfield's quinta, by turns the residence of the British or French Minister, and nearer to the Recoleta is Mr. Armstrong's country-house. The line here passes through the dismantled fortifications of one of the outworks thrown up in 1861 to defend the city from General Urquiza's threatened siege. This is a very exposed point, and the railway works have been repeatedly damaged by inundations. The water-supply for the city is taken from here ; the works and embankments just completed are on the left of the line. The Recoleta cemetery and Poor Asylum crown the «barranca.)) The quintas of Mr. Samuel B. Hale, an old American merchant of high standing, and of ex-Governor Saavedra, ccme next. In south-easterly gales it is common to see vessels driven ashore here. The Rifleros is a tavern near Palermo Chico, and there are some farm-yards here for rearing poultry for the principal city hotels. AVe now enter the ruined park of Palermo, the palace of Rosas lying to the left. The station is situate in what was once the grand avenue, and on our right is visible the stand-house of the English cricket-club: the cricket-ground is about four acres, rented from the municipality of Belgrano, and here the Athletic Sports also take place. Passing the new Powder-mill we cross the Arroyo Maldonado: about half a mile on the left we see the handsome Maldonado quinta, near which Rosas comnienced a great bridge over the arroyo, but it has been left unfinished. The line now crosses a tract of swampy land, till approaching the (cbarrancasw of Belgrano. A number of pretty quintas run along the hill, ending with a very ancient tile-roof house belonging to Dr. Corvalan. The chapel of Belgrano has a charming effect, looking over the line of railwaj, the lowlands, and the river. On one side of the station is the P0I5T OLIVOS. 101 Italian villa of Seiior 3Iatti, the steamboat proprietor ; on the other is Watson's hotel. In the summer season Belgrano is crowded with visitors but in winter it is all but deserted : the place is famous for its race-course (see page 86 of Section B). After traversing an open plain we cross the Arroyo Medrano, by an iron bridge, and enter the fine demesne of Mr. James White, a Scotch gentleman, who, coming to Buenos Ayres forty years ago, began life at the foot of the ladder, like so many other prosperous men in the country. This demesne formerly belonged to the family of the late bishop, Medrano, and is one of the oldest places in the neighbor- hood: the house is nicely situated, with shady corridors, large apartments, and extensive offices ; there is a court-yard resembling a barrack, where the slaves were lodged; the pigeon house contains some thousands of birds. Mr. White has devoted his chief attention to the rearing of superior English-bred horses, cows, &c. : his famous racer Belgrano has carried off numberless honors, and liis half-breds are much in request both as saddle and carriage horses. He has expended large siiras in bringing out superior animals from England. The farmyard is admirable ; the grounds are tastefully laid out. There is a gigautic; ombii tree, in the trunk of which one of Mr. White's cow herds has lived for some years past. Mr. White possesses a large w heat farm at Chivilcoy. The next quinta is that of the family of the late Mr. Patrick M'Lean, and here there is a station, called Bivadavia. The line traverses a low ground, skirting the base of a series of delightful summer residences, belonging to the wealthy families of Barros Pazos, Elia, Laprida, Uriarte, and Cano : some of these are built in the best style, with ornamental terraces and gardens in front, and looking out over the broad bosom of La Plata. For fantastic effect nothing can surpass the Azcuenaga quinta, built in the form of a hexagon, with a multitude of windows : it is related of a Gaucho that, on being asked how he liked the place, he said — «It was a nice place enough for a man to sleep outside of.)) Mr. Azcuenaga is an old bachelor, and was once president of the Municipality of Buenos Ayres. Point Olivos, the property of Mr. Wineberg, is the best situation along the river, and here the town of Belgrano should have been built. The barranca comes close to the water's edge, which offers a very suitable bathing place, and the point juts out into the river, with a fine view of Buenos Ayres southward, and San Fernando and the islands northward. Mr. Wineberg, who is a native of Poland, after making some money as a dentist in Brazil and Buenos Ayres, purchased the site, which extends back as far as the San Isidro highroad, and projected the formation of a town to be called « Pueblo Mitre,)) but he asked too much for building lots, and his 102 KXCURSIOISS BY RAILWAY. house has stood here in solitude for some years, surrounded by a vineyard and flower garden. Looking from the raihvay carriage over the river the traveller obtains a panoramic view in which the thousand ships in the roadstead of Buenos Ayres form an interesting feature. The line now enters a slight cutting, and we are surrounded by the rich corn fields of San Isidro, interspersed with the quintas of Pellon, Uriarte, Pacheco, Martinez, and Escalada. We cross the famous Callejon d'Ybailez, a green lane leading from the highroad to the river, which was the abode of a gang of brigands thirty years ago: numberless robberies and murders Avere committed here„ and passengers dreaded to pass the place even in the noon day. A deserted ^(pulperia,)) where the robbers held their rendezvous, is still seen on the roadside, but has long been uninhabited. There are some handsome quintas on the barranca, right of the line, before reaching San Isidro, viz.: those of Aguirre, Anchorena, and Vernet: the second was built by Mr. Patrick Brown, an old Irish resident ; it had nice grounds, summer houses on the cliffs, and an excellent fruit garden. Yernet^s is equally beautiful, commanding a boundless view of the river. San Isidro is a charming summer residence, about 14 miles from the city : waving fields of corn far as the eye can reach, green lanes that remind you of some midland counties in England, and lovely quintas with Grecian colonnades, Moorish corridors, and rich vegetation all around, make up a picture unrivalled on this side of the River Plate. The quintas of Alvear, Mackinlay, Elortondo, Tomkinson, and Tbafiez are remarkable for their picturesque situation and luxurious style. The town looks ancient, and most of the village forefathers sleep in the churchyard at the entrance to the chapel of St. Isidore the Laborer, The legend of the foundation of San Isidro is thus told — On a summer afternoon in the month of February 1725, a Gaucho halted his horse here under the shade of an ombi\, to take siesta, and, struck with the beauty of the situation, made a vow to St. Isidore, his patron saint, that if ever he came to be a rich man he would build a chapel here. He became in time a wealthy estanciero, and kept his word. The present church is, however, of a more modern date. There is a pietty good inn, kept by Sefior Tiscornia. The public school is newly built, spacious, and well-ventilated. From the plaza to the river side there is a shady thicket, which is a favorite place for English pic-nics in the fine weather. New country houses are being every day built in the neighborhood,' and one of the finest is that belonging to an Italian gentleman, close to the railway station. General 3Iitre, during his term of ollice, sought relief from the cares of state in a quiuta on the river's side, where he passed the summer mouths with his family. SAN FERSA.1XD0. 103 Leaving San Isidro, the railway strikes inland and we only get a distant view of the quintas along the «barranca.» The iriost notable is the Punta Chica, Mr. Brittain's delightful cottage : this is fitted up with the utmost taste and luxury ; the gardens are extensive and well stored with all kinds of fruit; from the extreme point over the river can be seen the island of 31artin Garcia and the delta of the Parana. There is a ruin on the <(barranca)) from the time of the early Spaniards. Corn-fields again intervene till we reach San Fernando (alias Bella Vista, from the beauty of its position). The view inland now reveals the first glimpses of the wide and open camp, with sheep grazing in the distance. The town is at some distance from the river ; it is very irregularly built, but has a considerable population, aud promises to become a place of great importance, if Mr. Hopkins succeed in his project of making the Capitan arroyo the port of Buenos Ayres. There are two very good hotels : the National, kept by M. Manet, has good wines and accommodation ; the other is called Hotel de France, in the Plaza. A new church is in course of construction. There are many fine quintas in the neighbourhood. Saa fernaudo owes its existence to an inundation which occurred at Las Conchas in 1806, when the parish-priest removed the sanctuary to this high ground, and the Viceroy Sobre-moute turned the first sod of San Fernando in great solemnity, only a few months before his flight from Buenos Ayres, on the English invasion, when he embarked from this same place. The Northern Railway w as at first intended to stop at San Fernando, and the Government guarantee went no further, but the Company afterwards resolved to prolong it at their own risk to the Tigre, Avhich offered a convenient port for the river steamboats. The Tigre is at all times sheltered from rough weather, and while it is often diliicult to embark in the roadstead of Buenos Ayres the up-river passenger traffic sustains no interruption al the Tigre. From San Fernando there is a continual descent towards the swamps of the Tigre and Las Conchas. A few houses and ranchos scattered here and there, a school-house built on arches, a quinta belonging to3Ir.Arning, and some clumps of trees, are met with before reaching the Tigre, which is nearly three miles from San Fernando, and 24 from the city. The rails run right down to the river, and passengers can at once step on board the steamers. Beyond the Tigre we see several splendid country-houses ; those of Gonsalez Moreno, Tejedor, Garrigos, and Madero ; tlie last resembles a chapel, and cost a large sum of money. At the railway station there is an excellent restaurant kept by M. Champion. Since the 104 EXCURSIONS BY RAILWAY. steamers visit the Tigre a number of shops and stores have sprung up. The Captain of the Port has a wooden house built on piles. The English rowing-club have a boat-house in which they keep their «outriggers,)) an exceedingly light craft of which you Avill often see, on Sundays, a dozen skimming over the waters of the Lujan, Tigre, and numberless channels of the Parana islands. These islands were uninhabited a few years ago, and Senor Sarmiento (now President of the Republic) was one of the first to appreciate their beauty and fertility : his island, in the Rcculadas stream, is a garden teeming with fruit and vegetables, some of the trees planted by his own hand. Not far off is another island cultivated by Senator Piilero ; but the finest of all is that of M. Brunet, a Frenchman, who has invested XI 6,000 sterling in the venture, living himself on the island, and raising the finest potatoes for the city market. The traveller will pass a pleasant day among these islands, where Nature bestows a luxuriant vegetation, and every stream is bordered with willows that droop their branches to the water's edge, and the quince trees laden with fruit of enormous size. The islanders are mostly Italians or French, some of them gardeners^ others charcoal burners, others basket-makers ; they have their huts built on poles, to guard against the frequent inundations. The usual charge for boats at the Tigre is §30 an hour. There are six trains to and from town daily, making the run in about an hour and 20 minutes. THE BOCA AND ENSENADA RAILWAY. The first concession for this line was granted in favor of M. Lelievre, but the works were not commenced till Mr. Wheelwright took the concession in hand in 1863, the first sod being turned on Washington's birthday (23rd February) of that year. In July following the National Government / made a new concession ia favor of Mr. Wheelwright (see page 106 of Section A), with a right of monopoly for twenty years, but without any guarantee for interest. The line was opened to Barracas, four miles, oa September 18, 1865, and a branch was shortly afterwards run down to the Boca. It is proposed to prolong this railway to Ensenada, thirty miles further south, but the works are suspended for a time owing to a difiiculty about the exact point where the line is to cross the Riachuelo. This line has been very successful : in 1867 it carried 459,698 passengers, producing $63,690 s., of which the working expenses absorbed 60 per cent. The nett proceeds gave 6J per cent., on a capital of £80,000 sterling. THE BOCA 105 The temporary terminus is at tlie foot of Calle Yeaeziiela, below Santo Domingo church, but there is in course of erection a splendid iron girder viaduct, made in England, ^vhich Avill start from the Custom-house and run along the beach to the Yellow House, a distance of more than a mile. This Avill be one of the finest works of railway ens-ineering in the Continent : the cost of it being £50,000, including the terminus at the Custom-house ; it runs at a height of several feet above the highest Santa Kosa flood. At various tunes the line suffered much injury and interruption from these periodical floods ; but now this inconvenience will be obviated. The viaduct will be completed in the beginning of 1870; the weight of the structure is estimated at 1 ,000 tons. The line runs along the beach called Paseo Colon, where a kind of breakwater is formed by a thick plantation of weeping willows. The barranca on the right is high and steep : we pass under the city hospital. Fair's quinta [for manv years the British Legation), and Lezama's quiuta : this last is the finest in Buenos Ayres, covering fifteen acres of ground, laid out in the best Italian style, with parterres, hot houses, statuary, bowers, and ornamental plantations : the house is also commodious and elegant, with rich drawing-rooms, dining hall, chapel, and a mirador 60 feet high : visitors can obtain tickets for admission to the gardens, which command the best. view in the city. General Urquiza resided here for a short time in 1860. The site was occupied forty years ago by Mr. 3Iackinlay's quinta. The first station is the Yellow House ; here the line crosses tiie highroad to the Boca, and enters Jackson's fields. On the right are seen Waterloo quiuta, the British Hospital, and the barranca which extends to the Calle Buen Orden : this would be an admirable place for a good row of houses built in English style, as the position is high and airy. The fields traversed by the line are often partly under water, the vicinity of the Boca being almost below water level. The view on the right is \ery pretty; the quintas of >'orth Barracas peeping out here and there in the midst of a dark green foliage. On the left we see the wooden village of the Boca, from which rises the din of ship carpenters busy at work, for this is the great dockyard of the River Plate. A forest of masts indicates the great coasting trade also done here. At the junction of the Boca branch with the main line are the company's workshops and sheds for rolling stock, besides a turning table : the train halts here. There is a great curve on the Boca branch, which winds its way through the shanties and dock yards of the Italian ship-wrights. You "will see them building schooners on all sides for the coasting and up river traffic. The line runs down close to the Riachuelo, where there is a 106 EXCURSIONS BY RAILWAY. wooden station: the passengers are almost exclusively Genoese. Here were landed some of the locomotives brought out from England for the Central Argentine Railway, but the goods traflic by this way is inconsiderable, owing to the difficulty of bringing lighters up the Tliachuelo, and the necessity of carting goods at the Venezuela Station till the viaduct be made to the Custom-house. The trains for Barracas have to run down to the Boca, and then return to the main line, which goes straight towards the Barraca de Peiia, on the banks of the Riachuelo. We pass Youuger's steam factory for washing sheepskins, and the barracas of Temperley and Bunge. The train halts at Peila's barraca, to let down or pick up wool brokers or barraqueros : this barraca is one of the finest, and does a great business. The line now hugs the river side, passing in front of several barracas, where the peons are at work loading or discharging produce from schooners and lighters, Avhich are moored under the willows. At times the banks are strewn Avith fish, poisoned by the saladero liquids, and then the smell is insupportable. On the opposite bank are the saladeros. The Riachuelo here is about 150 feet wide, the water of a dirty red color, and the bottom is such a deposit of mud that sometimes when a man falls into the water he never rises to the surface. Passing the extensive barraca of Hughes & Peters we reach the Cinco Esquinas, situate at the end of the Calle Larga. The stranger should visit the Glub, and Marshall's dockyard. From here the line pursues its course by tlie former site of Brown's saladero, and then on to the Barracas Bridge, the present terminus. The trains run from town every hour, and return from Barracas at the half hours, making the journey either way in twenty-five minutes. The average number of passengers is 1 ,400 daily. Wiien the line shall be prolonged towards Ensenada it will cross the Riachuelo near the site of the old passenger bridge, pass through the wide main street that leads to the Crucecita, leaving Barracas church on the right, and crossing the arroyo at the Puente Chico. It will then touch at QuilmeSj which will become a favorite suburb when once connected with town. There are many nice quintas here, and the farm and plantations of Mr. John Clark cover a great extent. , Leaving the cabanas of Latham and Benavente on the right, the line will traverse the estancias of Mrs. Yates and Don Leonardo Pereyra, then following the route of the telegraph wires over a tract of swami)y country, and crossing Mr. Bell's Estancia Chica, it will terminate at Ensenada, where Mr. Wheelwright projects to form the port cf Buenos Ayres, as it was under the early Spaniards till the mouth WESTERN RAILWAY. 107 became impeded with sand. The distance from Buenos Ayres to Ensenada is thirty-three miles. THE WESTERN — TO CUIVILCOY. This was the first railway constructed in the Biver Plate ; it was got up entirely by local capitalists, the contractor being Mr. Bragg ; the first sod w as turned at the Plaza Parque, in presence of the civil and ecclesiastical authorities, on the feast of Santa Bosa (August 30th) 1857. It was opened to Flores, 6 miles, in the following year; to Moron, in 1859; and to Moreno, 25 miles, in 1861. The enterprise proved unsatisfactory to the shareholders, and after some dissension the line was purchased by the Government of Buenos Ayres for $20,000,000m,fc (£160,000) with the view of prolonging it to the western districts. The Provincial Bank, was authorized by the Legislature to advance 44,000,000 for the prolongation to Mercedes, 37 miles beyond Moreno, and subsequently 1 5,000,000 for the section to Chivilcoy, in all 100 miles from town : the total cost has been 82,500,000 (including a sum produced by sale of public lands) or about £660,000 sterling, equal to £6,600 a mile. The line was inaugurated for traffic to Chivilcoy on September 17th, 1866, on which occasion the Government struck a medal with the inscription «Western railway to Chivilcoy, 100 miles, constructed entirely by native resources.)) The line traverses the best sheepfarming districts in the country, and does a gieat business in goods and passengers. The ollicial returns for 1866 and 1867 are as follows : — * 1866. 1867. Number of passengers, 368,651 472,627 Gross receipts, goods & passengers, 12,685,499 .... 16,18i,656 "Working expenses, .... 57 p. cent 65 p. cent. Nett profit on capital, d} 7^ The decrease of profits in the latter year was owing to a reduction of 25 per cent in the fares, which are cheaper than on any other line. Tlie amount remaining due to the Bank, on April 30th 1868, was $59,000,000ra^. The construction of telegraph wires to Chivilcoy cost £6,200, equal to £62 per mile. The line is on Barlow rails from town to Mercedes, and Griffin's rails from Mercedes to Chivilcoy : at special places there are Krupp's or Greaves's steel rails, also Viguoles and double-headed rails. The terminus has been recently supplied with a powerful fire-engine worked by steam power, with a hose some hundreds of yards in length. 108 EXCURSIO.XS BY RAILWAY. The Parque station is in the Plaza of that name ; the new station now building will cover 1800 square yards; the line crosses the Plaza diagonally, passing in front of the artillery magazine ; there is a sharp curve into the Calle Parque, and here they have employed steel rails. Although the Calle Parque is only 40 feet wide and thickly inhabited, no accidents occur here ; in fact Buenos Ayres is so fortunate in this respect, that our railway mortality does not amount to one person yearly. Leaving the new Jesuit college at Calle Callao on' our right, the line makes another bend, into Calle Corrientes, down which there is a steady decline till we reach the great Avorkshops of the railway. These Avere completed in 18G8 and comprise a lirst-class establishment for all kinds of railway works : tlie various shops of carpenters, blacksmiths, turners, coach-builders, painters, &c. are well worth a visit. Further on the spacious goods' stores offer an animated picture in the wool season, and have accommodation for a large portion of produce of the northern and western sheepfarms : the roof is of corrugated Ifou, supported by metal pillars. Passing the «mill of the^West)) we get a view of the Once de Setiembre wool-market ; this is crowded in the basy season with the (ccarretasw or camp waggons, which may be said to navigate the Pampas in all directions. This is the first station on the line. From Once de Setiembre the line strikes out due west through a series of quintas well stocked with fruit-trees. On the left is the Miserere, a very ancient place associated with General Whitclock's attack on lUienos Ayres. A branch line runs off here towards Barracas, which was made with the intention of carrying produce to tlie Riachuelo, but this was afterwards abandoned ^it is now used for carrying off the city ordure, which is burnt in an adjacent field. Before reaching Almagro station we pass the quintas of Bletcher and Gomez on the right, and Billinghurst on the left. The station adjoins the grounds of Don Julian Almagro, and is 2^ miles from the city. At a short distance on the right are the suburban residences of Mr. Lumb, Dr. Velez Sarsfield, and the Jesuit fathers. There are now two highroads parallel with the line, the Gauna road on the right and the Flores road on the left. The latter is lined with quintas belonging to Carreras, Valenzuela, Ceballos, Achaval, Amespil, Tarragona, Cruz, and Labrue. On the Gauna road is a saladero for killing pigs. The meadows about here give abundant hay crops. On a slight eminence to the right is Rose-hill, the delightful residence of a leading shipbroker, Mr. Boyd: the house is in Grecian style, with principal front looking eastward, a row of Australian gum trees forming the avenue from the highroad ; the gardens are exceedingly tasteful. On the left is Guerrico's FLORES AT^D MORON. 109 quinta, with a fine grapery leading dovn to the line of railway. The quintas of Valle, Luna, Dr. Pardo, and others follow. Dorrego's, on the left, has numerous bowers and statues ; on the right is the quinta of Don IXorberto Riestra. Flores is a pleasant little place in the summer time. Observe the quinta of Sefior Del Pont, fronting the station, and three or four others, almost as pretty, hard by. The church and public school are on the left. The village contains about 1,000 inhabitants (see page 88 of Section B). To the right the view stretches away towards the Pampa; on the left we pass the Olivera and Letamendi quintas, and approaching lloresta is that of Sefior Ximenez, an estanciero of Corrientes, who essayed cotton planting in 1863, on the river Balel. On the right is a strange looking wooden structure, built for a hotel when this was the terminus of the line ; and now we pass through a number of chacras under grain, till reaching the station of San Martin. The village of this name lies to the right, not far from the battle- field of Monte Caseros, where Rosas was overthrown in 1852. The branch railway from Floresta to the Luxan river will take this route. Near the San Martin station is a nursery belonging to Don Eduardo Madero, under the care of a French gardener: after which we see the charming country- houses of Don Juan Madero and the brothers Exequiel and 3Iatias Ramos Mejia. To the left is the river of Matanzas, so called from a dreadful slaughter (matanza) of Indians made here by the founder of Buenos Ayres, Don Juan de Garay, for which the King of Spain gave him a grant of three square leagues of laud on the northern bank of the river : this grant is at present in the hands of the Ramos-Mejia family. Crossing the lands of Segurola, Mendez, and Rubio, we leave on the left the village of San Justo, and next traverse the properties of Villegas, Pefia and Puyrredon. The highroad to the northern camps strikes off on the right towards the Puente de Marquez, a place associated with some bloody battles in the civil wars. Before reaching Moron our notice is attracted by a pretty American farm- house, called Ohio Park, the country-seat of Mr. Coffin ; the house is of two stories with pointed gables, and surrounded by gardens and meadows. Moron is situate on a high ground and considered a healthy summer residence; it has some fine houses, a parish church, public promenade, theatre, hotel, and about forty dry goods and grocers' stores. Horses or carriages may be hired here to make excursions to any of the neighboring estancias. In summer time there is a Club which gives balls on Sunday evenings, and these are attended by the townfolk and many ladies and gentlemen from the city. We now get a view of the campagna stretching away on all sides to the horizon, save where the prospect is relieved by aa 110 EXCURSIONS BY RAILWAY. estancia-house surrounded by a «monte» or peach plantation. On the right are those of Gonsalez and Pellon, and the left Pearson and Dillon ; the last named is Justice of the Peace for Merlo, and descended of a respectable Irish family that was banished in the rebellion of 1798. The village of Merlo is a straggling place, with a scanty population and a little Gothic church : the 'public-school is half-way between the station and the village, and near it is an English-built house, formerly belonging to Mr. Boyd. Many of the houses are in ruins, and the doors still painted red, a souvenir of the time of Rosas. The finest estancia in the neighbourhood is that of Mr. Thomas Gahan,a wealthy Irish sheepfarmer. Seilor Carranza has also a well cultivated chacra. The branch railway to Lobos will start from near Merlo. We now cross the river Las Conchas : on the left is Castagno's flour mill, and adjacent are meadow farms belonging to some industrious Frenchmen. Alcorta's «cabafia)) of fine sheep is on the left, with a tasteful house and plantations, and further west is the valuable estancia of Mr. Wyatt Smith, a favorite visiting place for strangers who wish to have an insight of camp-life. Moreno is distant 25 miles from the city, and was a place of some importance before the prolongation of the line ; it has a population of a few hundred souls, with a hotel, a dozen shops, a large plaza, and a church : at the western corner of the Plaza is a curious unfinished structure, with a wmirador)) three stories high ; this was the work of a Trenchraan who was employed to build the church, and who died before finishing either the church or his house. Horses may be hired at the hotel Labastie. The only cutting on the line is after leaving Moreno, and even this is insignificant : probably there never was a railroad easier constructed than this, the work simply being to lay down the rails on the turf, which is so level that Ki\ Allen assures us the incline sometimes in ten miles does not exceed that number of inches. We are now fairly launched on the broad bosom of the Pampa, and if you wish to feast your eyes on the glorious expanse that has no limit for a thousand miles, you should ask permission to accompany the engine-driver, who hurries along at 30 miles an hour, speeding onward towards the Indian territory, with the motto of his locomotive (d'm off to Chile !» There is a peculiar sense of buoyancy and freedom in careering over these boundless prairies, and the eye of tiie political economist is cheered by the signs of thriving pastoral industry on all sides. Most of the sheepfarmers are Irishmen, some of them owners of large tracts of , land and numerous fiocks of sheep ; others are poor «puesteros» following their fiocks on horseback, while the children run out from the mud raucho to gaze at the train as it passes. The humblest hut of an Irishman is LUXAK A1\D MERCEDES. Ill distinguishable from those of natives, by its having a chimney and a ladder, the latter being used as a look-out for the sheep. On the right is Robert Kelly's estancia, after -VNhich we cross the Arroyo Sauce and a «cauada)> or hollow, called Bajo-hondo. To the left are the estancias of Edward Dillon and Owen Lynch : the latter made his money in the city at his trade of saddler. The Alvares estancia covers a large area, and we cross the arroyos Durazno and La Choza, the latter of which rises some leagues higher up, in the estancia of >fr. Patrick Maguire. The Rodriguez station is on the site of an intended town, which at present counts seven houses : it was marked out by Governor Saavedra, who directed that the church when built should be dedicated to St. Patrick, as most of the neighbors are from the green isle of Erin. Crossing the (ccanada)) of San Antonio we skirt the Irigoyen estancia ; the house has a chapel and large chacra attached. The confluence of La Choza and Arias arroyos is near another large Irish settlement, comprising the rich estancias of Peter Ham, John Brown, Kelly, Casey, and others, after which we get sight of the Villa de Luxan. Luxan is one of the prettiest and most interesting towns in the camp, and distant forty-three miles from the city. It derives its name from a Spanish officer killed in an encounter with the Indians on the bank of the river that flows by here. The church of Lux.an has long been a pilgrimage for people from all parts of South America, and the shrine of the Virgin is richly decorated with votive offerings. The Cabildo stands in the plaza, around Avhich are several good shops. There is an Irish priest resident here. The public schools are worthy of a visit. An omnibus plies between the station and the town, and if the traveller wish to see some of the Irish estancias he will find horses for hire. On Sunday mornings the town is crowded with Irishmen coming in to Mass, and one or other of the richer estancieros will always invite a respectable stranger to dine wtth him at his estancia. From Luxan the line runs almost parallel with the Luxan river, but in opposite directions, nearly the whole way to Mercedes. Crossing a small arroyo Ave pass the estancias of Romero, Gutierrez, Maxwell, Burke, and Real on the left, and Gonsalez, INavarro, and Achaval on the right. We now enter on the large Olivera e'stancia, where there is a midway station between Luxan and Mercedes. The estancia Ruiz intervenes before passing the Arrovo Balta, v,hich is spanned by an. iron bridge sixty feet long, after which we leave the estancias of Yivar, Garaghan, and Connor on the left, and those of Dr. and !Sicolas Lowe on the right. Mercedes is visible at a considerable distance, or at least the chacrasand quintas which surround it, for nothing of the town itself can be seen till 112 EXCURSIONS BY RAILWAY. we have travelled a couple of miles through shady peach orchards. The railway station is superb, and has an excellent «buffet.)) The city, for such is its official title, is a mile distant, and omnibuses meet every train. The church and new town hall are handsome buildings, and there arc about 5,000 inhabitants: an Irish priest resides here. The best shop is that of Messrs. Torroba Brothers, where strangers will find any information they may require. Tliere are two good inns, and horses or carriages may be hired for excursions. This town, like Luxan, is a great centre of Irish sheepfarmers, who possess several valuable estancias in the partido. It is distant sixty miles from Buenos Ayres, and the trip is made in tiiree hours and a-half. The Luxan river flows N.W. of the town. As we leave Mercedes, the cemetery is on our left, and we again traverse a number of quintas, crossing the Luxan river below the Frias estancia, beyond which we see a large flour mill. On the left we pass a wooden cross in the centre of a fenced field : this marks the scene of a dreadful battle with the Indians some forty years ago, in which the savages were victorious, and here are interred the unfortunate frontier troops who were cut to pieces. On the right we see the electric telegraph wires that start hence for Rosario, passing through San ISicolas and some intermediate villages. The river Luxan still runs parallel, and on the right are the estanci^'s of Barrancos and Unzue, on tlie left Sanchez and Aranguren. A little further we find some more wealthy Irish farmers; Michael Murray, John Dillon, and Edward Martin : the camps about here begin to descend. On the right is the confluence of three arroyos, named Cardo, Durazao, and Leones; beyond these are several lagoons and a little eminence called Cerrillo de Leones. A few years ago this was Indian territory, and as yet there are few peach mounts or plantations. The solitary ombu stands out, at intervals, in bold relief on the horizon : this tree is Avorthless even for firewood, the timber being exactly like a rotten cabbage-stalk, but it is most valuable as a landmark in the Pampas, and the coolness of its shade is exceedingly grateful to the wearied traveller. Travelling across these plains bears some resemblance to a journey in Egvpt: when the plain is at all dusty and the sun shines brightly, a perfect «miragei) is created. You fancy you see a lake or river, and the rettectipn of trees in the water: the picture recedes from you as von advance, the lake never had existence, and the tree is only a shrub a few inches high. Another effect of the mirage is to confuse distances : two houses are in sight, and you make for the nearest, but you find it double the distance of the other. - The size of objects is also strangely magnified, and a small whitewashed cottage appears a large and stately mansion. It often happens at daybreak FREYRE TO CHIVILCOY. 113 that an estancia becomes distinctly visible to the naked eye, although so much beyond the horizon as not to be properly visible even through a telescope. Yonder flock of sheep, by another optical delusion, exactly resembles a long stone wall. In spring these plains are covered with thistles 10 feet high, so thick that ahorseman cannot make his way through them. Sometimes there are dreadful camp fires, accidentally caused by throwing the remains of a lighted cigar among the thistles. 3Iessrs. Van de Velde of Buenos Ayres, and others, have invented machines for mowing down these thistles. The estancias of Laurence Kelly, Mrs. Kenny, and James Maguire are seen on the left, before reaching Freyre. This station is close to the estancia-house of an old Spanish family of the same name: old Senor Freyre died last year, very wealthy, and his death-sickness was said to be caused by vexation at having 200 sheep killed by the train. It is found expedient not to fence the railways in thi| country, but rather leave the sides open, for cattle to scamper off on either side when the train approaches. When a cow or sheep, however, is run over, the iron fender in front of the locomotive quietly throws the dead animal off. At Frevre station there is a sagacious mule employed in turning the wheel of the water-tank, and whenever he hears the approach of the train lie goes to work of his own accord. As we traverse the Barrancos estancia the line steadily declines towards Las Saladas, a stream or rather swamp, which has its origin in the Encadenadas lakes some distance to the north, near the estancias of Thomas Carney and Michael Allen. In wet seasons this swamp is very much flooded, and the first railway bridge put across tlie Saladas Avas partly carried away : this caused Mr. Allen, the engineer, to invent two supplementary bridges instead of earthworks, which he constructed of two railway bars placed one on the other, leaving free passage beneath for the flood. The total bridge now measures 150 feet across. Ten leagues loMer down, to the left. Las Saladas falls into the River Salado, not far from the fine estancia of Mr. John Smith, the well- known broker. We now enter the grfeat estancia of Dr. Gorostiaga, Finance Blinister ; it comprises nine square leagues of land, forming four distinct establishments, viz., San Jose, San Bernardo, San Patricio, and Santa Trinidad, each of which has a lagoon of the same name, an estancia house and plantation, and a quantity of farming stock : the chief estancia house is far on the right, with a large peach-mount ; the stock of the Gorostiaga estancia numbers 10,000 cows and 60,000 sheep. The station at this point is midway between Freyre and Ghivilcoy. The land is still low, and as we pass Cerrito Averias we get a view of the «chacras)) and plantations of the town of Ghivilcoy. 114 EXCURSIONS BY RAILWAY. Chivilcoy, the temporary terminus of the Western line, is 100 miles from Buenos Ay res, and is the great agricultural district of the province : it had long been the dream of Don Domingo Sarmiento, now President of the Republic, and, in the 14 years since its foundation, the progress of the place has been rapid and prosperous. Abundant crops of grain and potatoes are raised liere, but previous to the railway reaching Chivilcoy (September 1866) the farmers had no market for their Indian-corn and were obliged to burn it for fuel in making bricks. The «cliacras)) cover a great extent of ground, and are famous for excellent peaches. The streets are ■wide, and many houses are of two stories. There is a first-rate club and reading-room; also a handsome school-house. The plaza is 200 yards on each side. At Messrs. Torroba, Standard agents, the stranger can procure any necessary information. The train takes 5f hours to make tlie journey from town : there are two trains daily each way. The line is being prolongec^toBragado, 25 miles further west, for which purpose the Legislature of Buenos Ay res recently voted an emission of 6 per cent, bonds. The route will traverse the achacras)) of Chivilcoy,, cross the Arroyo Hinojo and San Antonio, then through Mr. Wliite's large ■wheat farm down to the Rio Salado. Tliis river is crossed in 35 degrees S. lat., and just 2 degrees of longitude W. of Buenos Ayres. The estancias of the Cranwell family and of Biaus intervene before reaching the lagoons of Bragado-grande and Cassio. Then there is a «loma)) or gentle rise, and on the far side lies the frontier town of Bragado, near the Saladillo lagoon. THE SOUTHERK — TO CHASCOMUS. Tlie first sod was turned on March 8th, 1864, by President 3Iitre, and the line was completed to Chascomus in December 1865, the distance being 72^ miles, and the cost £725,000. The contractors, Messrs. Peto & Betts, adopted the Barlow rail, and the construction of the road, the rolling-stock, &c. are highly creditable. The line may be considered very successful, from the following official returns : 1866. 1867. Number of passengers, .... 210,878 Gross receipts, .... .... 7,790,231 Working expenses, .... 63^ p. cent. Goods traffic (arrobas), .... 1,293,799 Deficit paid by Government, 3,778,667 407,410 10,447,873 5Hf p. cent. 2,117,794 1,696,722 LOMAS DE ZAMORRA. 11$ Thus it will be seen that the "working expenses diminished, while the nett proceeds increased, from 2| in 1866 to over 5 per cent in 1867. The prolongation to Dolores is indefinitely postponed. There is a tramway connecting the Plaza Gonstitucion terminus with the city ; at present it stops in Calle Lima, but it will be prolonged to the Custom-house. The terminus has every accommodation for passengers and goods, the sheds affording ample storage for wool. The line leaves the Convalecencia on the right, and Langdon's and Saenz- Valiente's quiutas on the left, after which there is a rapid decline towards Barracas, while the view takes in a varied landscape of country-houses and gardens, with the Boca in the distance. The station of North Barracas is close to Pereyra's sahlflero, in the midst of a little colony of industrious Basques. The Riachuelo is crossed by a great iron girder bridge, supported by six cylinders, and having a span of 52 yards : the cylinders are sunk 60 feet^ and the bed of the stream is so slimy that some of them stand in .32 feet of mud; each cylinder was tested with a weight of 125 tons of rails: the bridge was made in England by Messrs. Bridgeworth, and is a noble work. On the south bank of the Eiachuelo are the Company's workshops ; that for repairing locomotives and doing other iron works has room for a dozen large forges, with flues of massive brickwork ; the shed for mending carriages is equally spacious, and has a turning-table ; then follow two large depots, for carriages and engines. The station of South Barracas is at some distance from the village : we see the church towers on the left, as we traverse a region of kitchen-gardens to Lanuz station, and then speed away towards the picturesque thickets of Lomas de Zamorra : there are several pretty quintas in the neigh- bourhood of the Lomas, and among the contributors to the village church were Messrs. Peto & Betts and some other Protestant friends. It Avouldbe difficult tofiud in the environs of Buenos Ayres a more delightful place for country-houses than hereabout. The air is peculiarly fresh and invigorating the ground high and dry, the plantations affordiug agreeable shade, and forming green lanes lined with poplars. Mr. Temperley's quinta is the most charming that can be imagined, being finished in the best English style, with handsome grounds, through which the railway runs. This property acquired great value by the line, and Mr. Temperley sold a part of his wchacra)) in building lots for country-houses. Messrs. Green, Drabble, Grigg, and others, have lands near the line. The Lomas station is exceedingly neat : it may be mentioned here that the stations on the line cost the sum of £64,000. Mr. Temperley's house is a little way beyond the station, on the right, and opposite to it is Mr. Livingstone's X2 116 EXCURSIOIfS BY RAILWAY. «rus-in-urbe» with a neat summer house. Emerging from the woods of Zamorra we get a view of the open camp, the eye taking in on the right a faint glimpse of the far-famed Santa Catalina, and on the left the shrubbery of Mrs. Kidd's rustic hotel. Santa Catalina was the site of Eobertson's Scotch colony, 1826, and has the finest plantations in Buenos Ayres. Mr. Fair projected a branch-line from the Lomas to his estancia of Monte Grande, via Santa Catalina, but it has not much prospect of being realized. Next we come on the grounds of Don Roque Correa covered with peach and paradise trees, and then on the Hunt property, after which there are some large grain «chacras,)) belonging to Bell, Boyd, and others, including an industrious native farmer. Excellent fresh butter is sent into town from the next Itation, which is called Bursaco. There are some fine estaucias within easy reach of Bursaco station ; those of Robson, Young, Brown, and Boyd ; and near the Conchitas river is Santo Domingo, the property of 3Ir. Davidson. The line of railway is as straight as an arrow. In a few minutes we reach Mr. Glow's estancia : the farm house is surrounded by a peach mount, and close at hand is the Glow station. Up to this point the country wears a lovely aspect ; smiling gardens, thickets of peach trees, and fields full of golden promise ; but henceforth the landscape grows dull and uninteresting. Leaving Glow's estancia on the right, and Ojeda's and Gowland's on the left, Ave begin to enter on what maybe called the fens of Buenos Ayres, a low-lying country of lagoons and «banados.>» We are now close to San Vicente, those two ombii trees being only a league from that village. San Vicente station is reached in two hours from Buenos Ayres, and a diligence plies to the neighboring town. As the line pushes on to Donselaar, we pass the widow Campos's estancia, a snug farm-house, and further on Mrs. Flora Lavalle's ; the land about here is verj low : Ave cross the Arroyos Campos and Donselaar by small iron bridges. The estaucias of Donselaar and Ereers are on the left, and not far off is the splendid German model-farm of Oldendorff vfe Co. : this is Avorthy of a visit, being unrivalled in the River Plate ; the grain farms, raeadoAV lands, fences, farm yard, and sheds are admirable of their kind, and there is a fine breed of horses from the King of >Vurtemburg's stables. President Sarmiento visited this farm lately and complimented Mr. Oldendorff as «the first German in the lUver Plate.)) We next cross the estancia Godoy, and on the right is a large estate belonging to Mr. George Bell. Not far off is the property of a thrifty Scotchman, Mr. MacFarquhar, and then folloAVs that of Senor Udaquiola. On the left is Mr. Temperley's estancia, and then come those of Wilkie and SATfBOROMBOIV. 117 Faulkes ; the latter is a valuable property, which the OTfner (an old Englishman) fenced in at great expense. To the right of the line lies the estancia of the late Mr. Harratt, who was one of the first settlers that imported fine sheep from Europe, about thirty years ago. The estancia of the late Bryan Thorp is some distance on the right. ■Sauborombon is famous for its great iron yiaduct, 900 feet long, supported by fifteen solid buttresses of masonry, the bricks for which were made by the Company, near Ferrari station. The whole country hereabout is sin impassable swamp in winter, and in summer it is usually dry, and swarming with grasshoppers : as many as a dozen people usually lost their lives every winter in attempting to cross the Sanborombon. This immense «cauada» or valley extends for thirty leagues down to the coast of the River Plate, and in its vicinity there are some fine estancias, including those of Bell, Buchanan, Graham, Plowes, Brown, and Newton. The last named family possesses a great quantity of real estate in the province. There is nothing of interest till we reach Ferrari, and a little beyond this is Jeppener station, so called from a German estanciero who is lord of the soil ; an ineffectual attempt was made to establish a town here, but there is a very good English hotel, and numbers of diligences ply hither from all the southern districts. Near Jeppener station is the estancia of Los Gaipones, the residence of Mr. Welchman: the Jockey Club holds races here at intervals. A little further we come to the Wild bridge, which was singularly unfortunate during the building of the line; no fewer than three bridges to cross the «arroyo)) were lost in the Atlantic, coming out from England, and this is the fourth. Mr. AVild has a comfortable farm- house on the left : further on is Mr. Cowan's estancia, and now we approach the Altamirano station : a diligence here takes passengers for Ranchos. On the right are the estancias of the Alegre family. Next comes that of Seilor Gorrea. The Gandara station is on the fine estate of the same name ; the late Mr. Gandara w as an industrious old Spaniard, and his family still reside here ; they have a «graseria» for melting down sheep, close to the station. The estancia extends on either side of the line ; the house, surrounded by a large «monte,)) is seen about two miles distant on the left. Near the Yitel (daguia)) are the Twaites estancias. Passing the lands of Figuerroa we traverse a series of wchacras,)) and come in sight of Chascomus. We have now travelled over 70 miles from town, and it will be remarked that we have hardly seen an Irishman along the route. The foreign population is not at all so thick as in the north and west, but there are some English, Scotch, and German establishments of the first order. In the wool season 1 ij^ { EXCURSIOxNS BY RAILWAY. of 1868 the wools from the south fetched the highest prices, being considered cleaner and better than from any other districts. Chascomus is a thriving place, situated on the side of a large lake. The railway terminus is a handsome building, and there is a good hotel kept by Mr. Dcvitt, besides Sefior Titon's inn. The church, public schools, plaza, and a quinta built by Mr. Crawford on the edge of the lake, are worthy of mention ; besides the well-furnished shops of Auld & Pettygrew, Standard'^''- agents, and King & Co. There is a resident Scotch clergyman, Rev. Mr. ' Tergusson. A resident Irish clergyman has also been recently appointed here, the Rev. Mr. Mullady. A telegraph wire connects the town with Buenos Ayres and Montevideo. There are three trains to and from town daily, making the journey in. five hours. The projected prolongation to Dolores, for which the Government also offers a guarantee of 7 per cent., would open up many rich farming districts. The line would cross the estancia of Don Juan N. Fernandez, and pass by several lagoons, then touch at Lacombe's of Chischis ; after traversing the estancia of Don Gregorio Lezama, it would cross the Rio Salado at Paso ! Villar. This is the chief engineering obstacle on the route. The line Would next cross the estancias of Alzaga, Alvarez, Botet, Cordoba, Piilero, Madariaga, and Peredo, before reaching Dolores. This town is the great market of the south, and a place of much importance : it is about 50 miles trom Chascomus, and diligences ply between the towns, but the roads in winter are rather unpleasant for travelling. There is another project to prolong the line towards Azul, but nothing positive has yet been arrived at, and it is probable that for some years the line will go no further than Chascomus. TARIFF, TAXES, AHD REGULATIONS. 119 CHAP. X. TARIFFS, TAXES, REGULATIONS. PROVIICCIAL STAMPED PAPER. Art. 1. The stamps to be used in all Provincial docuraents in Buenos Ayres (the Custom-house and Federal Courts being national, for which see page 179, Section A), shall be as follows Amount. $100 to $3,000 3,001 do.. 5,000 5,001 do., 10,000 10,001 do.. 20,000 20,001 do., 30,000 30,001 do., 40,000 40,001 do., 50.000 50,001 do.. 60,000 60,001 do.. 70,000 70,001 do.. 80,000 80,001 do.. 90,000 90,001 do.. 100,000 100,001 do., 150,000 150,001 do.. 200,000 200,001 do.. 250,000 250,001 do., 300,000 300,001 do., 400,000 400,001 do;, 500,000 Not OTer 90 days. Over 90 days. $3 .. . 8- 5 10 10 15 20 30 30 45 40 60 50 75 60 90 70 105 80 120 90 135 100 150 150 225 200 300 250 375 300 450 400 600 500 750 and so on in proportion. 120 TARIFFS AlfD TAXES. Art. 2. All bills of exchange, promissory notes, &c., whether in Buenos^ Ayres currency or other money, shall have stamps as in the foregoing^ scale. Art. 3. All contracts for sale of houses or lands, or goods, and all monetary transactions for stated periods, either with or Avithout a broker, shall be on stamped paper, but the first draft may be on plain paper. Art. 4. Police contracts, such as for apprentices, servants,, or orphans, shall have a ^3 stamp ; and the same for each page of a petition to any of the public authorities; also each page of an arbitration, notary's docu- ments, (fee. Art. 5. A copy certificate of birth, marriage, or death, a license for the inner provinces, and each page of a valuator's report, shall have a ^^ stamp. Art. 6. A copy of special power of attorney, protest of a bill, or other registered document in a notary's oflice shall have a ^10 stamp ; the same for a wguia)) for cattle, and «boletos)) of measurement from the Topographic Department; also for each page of a contract with amount not expressed. Art. 7. Documents for sale of furniture or real estate, and promises to pay, either with or without mortgage,- shall have the proper stamp as iii Art. 1. Notary's certificates shall be on g3 stamp. Art. 8. Certificates of registered contracts shall likewise be on g 3 stamp. Art. 9. Copies of such documents as specified in Arts. 6 and 7, executed before 1862, shall have stamp as in Art. 1 on the first page, and. $3 on following pages. Art. 10. Each page of a land measurement, general power of attorney or draft of a will, g20. Art. 11. Despatches of promotion, license on coming of, age, or for fowling, the first page of a will, all petitions to Government or the law courts for measurement of frontier lands or beyond the Sala(Jo, orto the Topographic Department for delineations in the city. Outside the area of Calles Corrientes, Belgrano, Piedras, Esmeralda, Defensa, and Julio, shall have a 3100 stamp; but petitions to' the Department for renewal of doors and windows" shall only pay ^30. Art. 12. Petitions for measurement within the Salado aud the frontier, copies of plans from the Department, professional diplomas, and seals to wills, §200. Art. 13. Petitions for professional matriculation, for delineation of house property within the area mentioned* in Art. 1 1 shall pay §500, bat renewal of doors and windows only $100. Art. 14. Boletos for new marks, $500; copy or transfer of marks, §100. PATENT TJlX* 121 Art. 15. Receipts may be given on plain paper, but if placed in evidence require a $3 stamp. Art. 16. The party presenting the documents or originating proceedings shall pay the stamp. Art. 17. Judges or authorities may use plain paper, j7ro tern.. Art. 18. Ko public employee shall admit a document not properly stamped. Art. 19. Any party giving or recei\ing a document not properly stamped shall incur a fine of tenfold the proper stamp ; notaries shall suffer the same fine, and for a second offence suspension. Art. 20. In cases of doubt the proper authority shall decide the amount of stamp, without appeal. Art. 2 1 . In January each year all unused stamps may be exchanged. Art. 22. Spoiled stamps may be likewise exchanged at any time, paying $1 each. Art. 23. Contracts for a monthly sum shall .pay half the stamp of the amount for the whole term. LAW OF LICE:^SES or PATEiSTS (1869). Art. 1. The yarious trades and professions are divided into eleven categories, for the payment of Patents for 1369, as follows : — Category 1 . First class, $50,000 ; second class, $25,000 ; third class, $15,000. This category comprises banks, gas company, and houses exclusively occupied in discounting. Category 1. First class, $12,000; second class, $8,000; third class, $5,000. This category comprises houses of importation and consignment, whether they keep goods in Custom-house deposit or have private stores, or receive goods despatched direct ; it also includes saladeros, houses that export produce, insurance companies, and agencies of every kind. Category 3. First class, $8,000; second class, $5,000; third class, $3,000. This category comprises mills, wholesale shojis of eveiy kind, hqtels, public lodging houses, markets, and travelling huxters who sell liquor. Category 4. First class, $5,000; second class, $3,000; third class, $2,000. This category comprises private hospitals, undertakers, graserias, drug stores, jewellery shops, clothing marts, theatres, auction marts, steamboat agencies, and bazaars for the sale of articles of luxury. 122 TARIFFS AND TAXES. Category 5. First class, g3,000; second class, §2,000; third class, §1 ,500. This category includes shops or stores by Avholesale and retail, wine merchants, furniture marts, newspaper offices, con- signees of produce and cattle from the country, breweries, carriage builders, auctioneers, coal and timber yards, billiard manufacturers or retailers. Category 6. First class, g2,500; second class, ^1,500; third class, ^1,000. This category comprises ship brokers, produce barracas with presses, coach yards, waggon factories, machine depots, ship chandlers, shipbuilding yards, fondas, taverns, and coffee houses. Category 7. First class, §2,000; secondclass, $1,000; third class, §700; fourth class, §500. This category comprises photographers, dentists, retail shops for dry goods and groceries, gunsmiths, upholsteries, lamp shops, saddleries, factories of soap, chocolate, tiles, oil, macaroni, &c., and tan yards ; also shops of hardware, musical instruments, pictures and mirrors, printing offices, public gardens, confectionary shops, ready-made clothing shops, military outfitters, agencies of all kinds, millinery shops, distilleries, piano stores, foundries, cigar shops, whaleboat offices, barracas without presses, and all lottery vendors who are not invalids or above 60 years of age. Category 8. First class, §1,000. This category comprises lawyers, physicians, surgeons, notaries public, accountants, architects, and master builders. Category 9. First class, §800; second class, §500; third class, §300. This category includes land surveyors, haberdashers, apothecaries, watchmakers, silversmiths, hatters, shoemakers, tinsmiths, cuttlers, ■ ' ■; coopers, combmakers, blacksmiths, carpenters, dyers, stone cutters, chair makers, house painters, guitar makers, huxters, sail makers, mattrass makers, charcoal sellers, attorneys, brokers, midwives, sewing machine workers, lace makers, coffin makers, baling presses, plumbers, turners, hair dressers, bakers, livery stables, peep shows, broom and basket makers, booksellers, window blind makers, coach offices, tinkers, laundries, chiropodists, opticians, &c. Category 10. First class §450. This category comprisee weighers, measurers, pilots, bleeders, veterinary surgeons, engravers^ painters, paper and bell-hangers. Category {{. Tvcsl class, 300§. This category comprises organ grinders, fiddlers, fan-makers, book-binders, huxters, piano-tuners, clothes cleaners, stucco-workers, and all others not specified in any of the above categories. PATE5T TAX. 123 Art. 2. The tariff shall be one-half in the country districts, excepting all saladeros, graserias, and steam-factories -within two leagues of the municipal boundary of the city. Art. 3. The assessment of the amount of Patent according to the classification of the various industries as above, shall be done by a committee appointed in each town by the Executive. Art. 4. When one house comprises different branches the committee shall assess that which pays the highest Patente: if there be separate doors for such branches of business, they shall assess the highest Patente and half that which answers to the lower branch. Art. 5. From article 3 are excepted the following, all which pay 1st. class in their respective categories — Gas Company, travelling huxters, pedlars, dentists, lottery-vendors, attorneys, brokers, midwives, chiro- podists. Except also land-surveyors, and these shall pay the 2ud class in their respective category. Art. 6. The committee for assessing Patentes shall classify the various shop-keepers, &c. and deliver to each a ticket expressing how much they have to pay. Art. 7. Parties who may not have received such ticket can apply to the committee within eight days after the classification. In case of disagree- ment about the amount payable the interested party may appeal within thirty days to a jury composed of fire members, whose decision shall admit of no appeal. Art. 8. There shall be two juries in the city of Buenos Ayres, and one in each town or partido of the province ; the members being named by the respective municipalities and electing their own chairman. Art. 9. The juries of appeal must be installed before the 1st of April, and at once communicate with the classifying committees. Art. 10. The committees shall before the 30th March submit to the juries their respective lists, and the juries give notice in the public papers of the time and place for hearing of appeals, at which, moreover, the committees must also assist, to give any necessary information. Art. 1 1 . After the term of thirty days the jury shall close its sittings and send in the returns as amended to the Oficina de Patentes. Art. 12. All Patentes must be taken out in the country districts before August 30th, and the Executive shall fix a suitable term in the city for each profession. Art. 13. Whoever violate this law shall pay a fine double the amount of Patente, besides being obliged to take out the proper Patente. 124 TARIFFS AKD TAXES. Art. 14. Each country muaicipalitj shall receive 10 per cent, of the proceeds of Patentes in its district. Art. 15. The Executive is authorized to expend 5 per cent of the gross proceeds and 20 per cent, of the fines inthe collection of the tax. CONTIIIBUCION . DIBECTA. Property Tax. Art. 1. All landed or household property in town or country shall pay four per roil on its assessed value. Art. 2. Proprietors whose total estate is not worth §20,000 m/c., and that they reside on same, are exempted from this tax. mnm v. TARIFF FOR LIGHTERS. Loading. Balizas. Pozos. Anchors, qcj., §3^ $4^ Acid sulph., 40 40 JBales estraza paper, 2^ 3 Do. toba.cco, 10 12 Do. twine, 21 2| Do. N. A. wick,, 1^ \\ Barrels beer, .... 5J 6^ Do. Braz. sugar, 7 8 Do. N. A. tar, G 7 Do. Swedish tar, 8 10 Do. flour, 4| 5 Do. sugar, alpiste, 6 7 Do. Seltzer, 8 9 Do. pimenton, 2 2^ Do. resin, 8 10 Boxes tea U,. .. . ^ ^ Do. tbco,grease,qq, 3^ 4| Do. ink, blacking, 2| 3 Do. raisins, lideos, 1^ If Balizas. 13 1 2 3i 3i Do. Hav. sugar, Do. rockets. Do. starch ^(a)j Do. lingqq., Do. nails, . . . , Do. w. glass, cube ft. 3^ Do. glass-ware ft.. If Do. indigo, blue, (a) 1 Do. candles, (a) 1| Do. gunpowder, (a) 6 Do. preserves, 8 Do. dulce, 9 Do. oysters, 2 Do. paper, 20 reams, 8 Do. N. A. chairs, 7 Do. soap, .... 2^ Do. wines, cognac, - pickles. If Do. champagne,liqrs,2^ Pozos. 15 1 2i 4i 4i. 4i If li 2i 6 10 10 10 8 3 2i 3 LIGHTER TARIFFP. 125 Balizas. Pozos . Do. gin, doz. 1^ 1^ Do. sardines, 4 5 Bags rice, .... 6 7 Do. farifia, .... 4 4^ Do. pimenton, 4^ 5^ Do. corks, 1^ I^ Do. nuts, sugar, coffee 5 5^ Baldosas, Havre, mil, 80 90 Do. • Marseilles, 65 75 Do. Spanish, cart, 40 50 Barras, each, 3 3 Brooms, doz 2^ 3 Bocoys, coal, .... 40 40 Do. lump-sugar, 25 30 Buckets, doz 4 5 Cables, qq 5 6 Do. do. ... . 4 5 Coal, iron, ton 55 55 Cheese, Eidam, doz. 2^ 3 Do. 12tt I 1 Coke, ton, 60 70 Crockery, cask. If If . Do. hampers, 30 35 Demijohns, 5 gals. 1^ 2 Do. 2^ 11 If Do. 1 . . . . f t Salt, fan 6 7 Spades, bundles 4 5 French tiles, mil 200 200 Fire-bricks, 150 150 Firewood, 100 pges 5 6 Hams, .... ^ 1 Hardware, canvas, packing, matches, paper, and cigars, per cube ft 2^ 2^ Hemp, qq 6 7 Kerosene, 10 gals. 3^ 4^ Machinery, iron safes, botadores and Marble, ton Oars, each. Oil, @, Oil in tins, Olives, @ Balizas. Pozos. 65 65 H H 2 3 1 H 1 I If Paper estraza, ream, , Paint, @ Potatoes, @ Pots, qq 6 7 Pine-boards, 1000 ft. 65 75 Bolls, matting 6 7 Do, felpudoS, doz. 4 5 Do. tobacco, (a) 1 1 B: cement, soda, qq. 2^ 3 Railway bars, ton 70 70 Tinware, qq 4 5 Tubs, ^ doz 5^ 6 Tanned hides, Ij; i^ Tei'falla, cart, 40 40 Tablas, Braz. 1 inch 30 30 Db. 2 inch 50 50 Tablillas, 2^ 3 Wood, 1000 ft. 120 120 WAX,qq 3* ^ Wheat, lime, fan. 5 6 Wire, steel, qq. 4 4^ Ziuc,'qq 3^ 4 pipes, aguardiente, 25 28 Do. empty. 11 12 Do. abatidas, 6 6 Posts, 2 2 Do. half U li Perches 50f . by 1 Oin. 200 200 Peje-palo, bundles 5 6 Yerba, Parnagua 5 6 Do. half sobs, 4 5 Do. Par^.&R. G. 5 5^^ Do. Misionera, 7 8 tirautes, at conventional prices. 126 TARIFFS AKD TAXES. From Custom-house Animals, each, .... Bones, ton,. ... .... Bone-ash, .... .... Bales, hay, Bales, wool, hair, [Provinces] Bales, wool. [Buenos Ayres^ Canillas, mil, .... Caracues .... Chiguas, wool and hair, Chiguas, Santiago, .... Deerskins, .... .... Horns, mil, . . . , .... Hides, salted ox, .... Hides, salted mares, .... Hides, dry raatadero,. . . . Hides, dry, Spain andN. A. Hides, dry mare and calf, Jerked beef, qq. .... Hoofs, ton, .... .... Machos, mil, .... Pipes, grease and tallow, Pipes iron, tallow .... Pipones, tallow .... Straw, bundles, .... Sheepskins, dox., .... Wool in bags, .... Boxes tallow, 2qq Boxes Mares' grease, 3qq. Boxes raares^ grease, 4qq Dischargmg. Balizas. 8.80 70 55 20 32 28 20 30 If 15 1 4: 50 1 If 1 f n 100 200 24 40 40 \ 4 H 6 8 12 Pozos. $80 70 55 25 40 34 25 36 If 11 60 If If H 100 200 30 40 40 1 4 1* 7 10 14 From Barracas. 880 70 55 25 40 34 25 40 f 18 60 If H If H 3i 100 200 30 40 40 I 4 H 7 10 14 Delays — After two days at the rate of $250 a day for 30 bales [B. A.] In unloading the ton is calculated at 221 1 lbs. ; in loading or in ballast the ton has only 2000 lbs. In discharging matches, paper, hardware, packing, glassware, cigars and brushes, the price is by the cubic foot English and includes cart-hire to the Custom. house : in other articles the owner has to pay the carts. The English ton measurement has 40 cubic feet, the French 52 English cubic feet, and 100 feet English are equal to 1 1 7 Hamburg ditto. Re-embarkation— rilcienda $45, comestibles $30 per cart. Cargo above the Barraca bridge is charged 20 per cent, extra, eiiher loading or discharging. MKIflCIPAL TAXES. 127 No complaint allowed beyond four days after delivery of goods: all complaints should be made to tiie lighterman, but the undersigned do not answer for damage caused by fortuitous events. Casares & Sons, Rodriguez & Sons, Guerrero, Hoevel & Langenheim, Seiiorans & Fuzier, Bernal & Co., Neves, Rubio & Co., INufiez, Noceti & Tornquist, Bettolache &Co., Caranza, Gamartino & Co., Garri& Co., Garcia, Bergmann & Bickleman, McLean, Garay & Co., Ferrer & Co., Marti, Pla & Co., Ascheri, Guimaraens,Solari, Laforgue,CurellBros.,Delfino,DoderOy Agnese, Coelho, Dally, Martin, B. Curell & Co., F. Casares. MUNICIPAL Gas and SERENO TAX. 1 . Mercantile houses, barracas, timber yards, w holesale stores, mills, printing offices, hotels, insurance offices, clubs, and theatres, pay §30 a month for serenos, §iO for gas, and where there is no gas $15 for oil. 2. Bakers, hatters, baths, soap boilers, coach makers, brewers, druggists, jewellers, ship chandlers, liverv stables, and lithographers, pay as above — $20, $30, S 12. 3. Blacksmiths, coffee houses, upholsterers, apothecaries, watchmakers chandlers, and cart owners, pay — $15, $25, $10. 4. Drapers, grocers, workshops, palperias, butchers, and eating-houses, pay— S JO, $20, $5. 5. Private houses pay — $5, $5, $3. 6. Rooms on the street pay — $2, $2, $2. 7. Houses with two doors shall pay half for the second, and the same for unbarred windows. Empty houses pay nothing, but, once taken, a part of a month counts for a whole one. PAIiOCHlAL DIVISION OF THE CITY. 1. Catedral al Norte. — From Calle Rivadavia to Paraguay, and from Paseo Julio to Calle Maypu. 2. Catedral al Sud. — From Calle Rivadavia to Chile, and from the river to Calle Las Piedras. . 3. San Telmo. — From Calle Chile to the Riachuelo, and from the Paseo Colon to Calle Piedras and Barracas 4. Concepcion. — From Calle 3fexico to Caseros, and from Calle Las Piedras to San Jose. 5. Monserrat. — From Calle Potosi to Caseros, and from Las Piedras and San Jose to Sarandi. 6. San Miguel. — From Calle Maypu to Calle Talcahuano, and from Cuyo to Potosi. 7. San Nicolas. — From Calle Maypu to Uruguay, and from Cuyo to Charcas. » 128 TARIFFS AND TAXES. 8. Socorro. — ^Frora Calle Paraguay to the Pobre Diablo, and from Hueco de Cabecitas to Calle Uruguay. 9. Pilar.— From Tobre Diablo to the Arroyo Maldonado, and from the Cinco Esquinas to the municipal boundary. 10. Piedad. — From Calle Uruguay and Santiago del Estero to Ayacucho and Sarandi, and from Calle Charcas to Potosi. 11. Balvanera. — From Calle Charcas to the Puente Alsina, and from Calles Sarandi and Ayacucho to the municipal boundary at Piran's quinta. Note. — It is proposed to form anew parish in North Barracas, embracing also the Boca, and to divide the Balvanera parish, forming another new one at the south-west quarter of the suburbs, between the Puente Alsina, Calle Solis, and Calle Mexico. The Archbishop has given his consent for the change as soon as the intended parishes be provided with churches. RULES OF THE FACULTY OF MEDICmE. The Faculty is composed of ten professors, eight substitutes, and a secretary. The School of Medicine is opposite San Telmo church. The medical studies require six years. Besides these, the candidate for a studentship must show certificates of having passed satisfactorily examina- tions in Latin, philosophy, mathematics, chemistry, and physics. The pharmaceutical studies are Latin, philosophy, mathematics, physics, chemistry, botany, and pharmacology. The medical student, after passing satisfactorily six yearly examinations, and two general examinations, receives the diploma of Doctor in Medicine. The pharmaceutical student receives that of Licentiate in Pharmacy. All those who wish to practise medicine or pharmac}- in Buenos Ayres must present their diplomas of Doctor or Licentiate in Medicine or Pharmacy of a Faculty or University recognised by that of this country. The medical student must also undergo two examinations ; one before the professors of anatomy and physiology, general pathology, materia medica, pathological anatomy, &c., obstetrics, &c., which lasts two liours ; the other examination consists of two practical cases of medicine and two operations. The examinations are in the Spanish language, and are public. The candidates pay as fees ^lOOs. If the candidate does not pass a satisfactory examination half the amount is returned to him. and he cannot present himself again until six mouths have passed. The foreign candidates for the pharmaceutical diploma, without which they cannot open a pharmaceutical establishment, must pass two examina- tions; one practical, for which he will have to make six chemical and pharmaceutical preparations ; the other theoretical. THE MQUTH OF THE FLATS. Ilf? CHAP. XI. THS MOUTH OF THE BIVER PLATE PORT OF BUENOS AYRES. THE APPROACH TO THE RIVER. The depth of this river increases from the spot where it is joined by its two great tributaries to the sea, and the bottom is oozy, and in some places rocky, to the meridian of Montevideo. From here it changes, and its proximity to the ocean becomes gradually apparent, for the ooze is mixed with sand ; as the mouth of the river is approached the sand is finer, and mixed with shells and rocks, the northern bank only remaining oozy. The rocks (tosca) are principally found on the southern coast, from the SaladiUo to the little bay of Barragan. The bottom at this part of the coast is very hard, and the water shallow, the width of the bay being two or three leagues. The different bottoms of sand, shells and sand, and rocks and sand, situated to the east of the meridian of Montevideo, may be considered as an immense bank, known at its culminating point as the English Bank. The bed of La Plata is full of banks and quicksands, extending for more than thirty leagues to the east of its mouth, and from thence inwards^ obstructing its course and rendering the navigation to Buenos Ayres difficult for vessels of a certain tonnage. We will again refer to these dangers in Vol. II. The tinge of the water of the La Plata, produced by lime, extends for more than twenty leagues into the ocean. 180 THE MOUTH OF THE PLA.TI. Islands. It is only on the left bank they are to be met with, which is rocky, while on the opposite side not a stone is to be found. The principal are Lobos, S.E. of Maldonado; Gorriti, in the same bay ; Flores, east of Montevideo; San Gabriel, Lopez, and Farallon, opposite Colonia ; Hornos, north of these ; Martin Garcia, near the delta of the Parana : besides these there are several rocky clusters more or less distant from the coast. Banks. The principal ones are the English (the most dangerous), the Archimedes, Medusa, Chico, Nuevo, Big and Little Ortiz, Las Palmas, &c. As far as Maldonado there are no banks, but from that to Montevideo the English Bank must be rounded; and if the south passage is taken Archimedes and Medusa also : if Buenos Ayres is the destination all must be passed. To- reach Montevideo a pilot is seldom employed ; but rarely indeed are the services of a pilot dispensed with when going up to Buenos Ayres. Formerly, before the creation of the ports of Montevideo and Maldonado, mariners preferred the southern shore, passing the English Bank, and those bound for Buenos Ayr^s stopped at the port of Barragan. Such was the dread inspired by the dangerous banks supposed to be at the mouth of the La Plata that seamen dubbed it «the sailors' hell,)) and the insurance on its navigation was equal to that paid from Europe to its mouth, it being considered a miracle to escape. Few were the merchant vessels to be seen on its bosom, and a war vessel never except in time of war. The vessels most frequenting it were Spanish, but never above 500 tons. No vessel sailed on it by night, which was always passed at anchor, and the course steered was by the eastern side pf the Ortiz Bank; but, according as the river became better known, and ports sprung up, the fear inspired by the banks decreased, and the navigation of the river made great progress, aided by the exact and detailed (iharts introduced, and the pilot service that was organised. If we are to believe the writers and sailors of the last century, it should help to dissipate oar terror to know that hurricanes were then less frequent than formerly, nor were they so violent as in the first years of the river's discovery. From the time that ports were made at Montevideo and Maldonado, and the northern shore of the river better known, navigation by the southern side was completely abandoned, whether through the want of good points of observation, or the few ports or harbors to be found along it, or that but little was known of it, or the exact situation of Cape Saa THE MOUTH OF THB PLATE. 131 Antonio, until the necessity of avoiding the English cruisers off Santa Maria and Maldonado obliged the Spanish vessels to find a new passage to the south of the bank, sailing by parallels 35 deg. 5ni. to 36 deg. until arrived at the meridian of Montevideo, and then making for this port, or Barragan, or Buenos Ay res, as the case might be. This course, once safely opened, it has so continued, until, with the establishing of so many lighthouses, the river is now entered by the northern side. Anchorage^ Wherever the lead shows that the bottom is oozy an anchor may be let go, taking care, however, to give a wide berth to the banks, lest the ship might drag on to them. With winds from the south the southern side is preferable, from other points the northern is best. Large vessels can get as far as Montevideo, while vessels drawing fifteen or nineteen feet of water can fearlessly ascend as far as Buenos Ayres or the Hornos Island. As shelter from the N.N.E., E., and S.E. winds the best parts are Hornos, Montevideo, and Maldonado, although the latter is not perfectly sheltered from the S.E., which reaches the anchorage through the pass of Gorriti. The Bay of Barragan, and the roads of Buenos Ayres, are sheltered from S.W. winds. Small vessels can anchoroff Cape Santa Maria, at the entrance of the Santa Lucia, and off Colonia, on the northern shore ; in the Tuyii and Saladillo rivers, the Bay of Barragan, and the Riachuelo, near Buenos Ayres, on the southern. Ships can anchor at 3Ialdonado in six or eight fathoms ; in the roads of Montevideo, four to six fathoms ; in the harbor, two to three fathoms ; in the roads at Barragan, three fathoms ; the roads of Buenos Ayres, three to six fathoms ; near the city, two to three fathoms. Against S.W. winds the anchorage on the northern shores is best, against those from the S.E. the others. Of all these anchorage grounds that of Maldonado is the best, as the bottom is oozy, covered with sand. In the others the bottom is mud, in which the anchor cannot hold during strong winds. Lights. The lighthouses of the La Plata in this part have considerably improved of late years. At present there are five stationary and five floating lights ; the first-named are placed on the Island of Flores,the Cerro of Montevideo, Colonia, and the Custom-house of Buenos Ayres. The floating lights point Y2 J 32 THE POBT OF BUE«OS AYRKS. out the following dangers: the English Bank, Panela Quicksands, Nev Bank, Little Bank, and the roads of Buenos Ayres. We will give in their proper place detailed particulars of these lights, leaving it as granted that their combination greatly facilitates the entry and navigation of the river during the night. The first light known in the Rio de la Plata was that of the poop lantern of the Spanish frigate Loreto, lost off San Jos(i in 1792, and placed on the Island of Flo res. This light was afterwards removed, in 1798, to the Gerro of Montevideo, experiencing a thousand vicissitudes^ until one light was established on the island, and another on the Cerro. Beacons and Buoys. There are many along the river, but complete confidence cannot be placed ill their stability, as the force of the current often tears them away, or, what is even worse, displaces them, for then, instead of acting as a warning against danger, they lead to it. The principal beacons are those on Saa Jos6 Point, at Montevideo, and at the Martin Garcia channel. The Bell Buoy on the English Bank disappeared during a tempest, and has never been replaced. THE PORT OF BUENOS AYRES. The port is no better than any other on the river, the anchorage not being good, in consequence of the softness of the bottom, which allows of the anchors dragging when the wind blows from the N.E., this wind traversing' the roads in an obli(|ue direction, and raising generally a heavy sea. The anchoring ground is divided into tlie Outer and Inner Roads, formed on one side by the City Bank, and on the other by the Cumarones Bank, which is a ramification of the great Palmas or Play a Honda Bank. The Port of Buenos Ayres being but a very indifferent one by nature, and hitherto neglected by the authorities, it is insufficient for the trade of this vast emporium. No captain considers his ship safe Avhilst anchored in these offings (it being impossible to call the «port)) anything else), as every gale of wind from S.W. round to N.E. imperils his vessel. Many schemes have been proposed for constructing a harbor and docks ; but as yet nothing has been done. THE PORT OF BUENOS AYRES. 1^3 In the early part of 1869, Mr. Bell of Glaso;ow arrived out for the purpose of surveying the port, in company with Mr. Miller of the same place. After a minute study and survey, the plans were drawn up, and proposals sent into Government for the purpose of constructing docks and building warehouses. The plans have not been made public ; but, in the month of March, 1869, all questions being definitely settled, the Government concluded the contract. A company for the purpose of carrying out the same is being formed, having for its representatives 3Ir. John Proudfoot in England and Mr. Edward Madero in Buenos Ayres. The enterprise is one of the most important for the maritime commerce of the Port of Buenos Ayres, and being in such good hands will doubtless prove a reality. In Vol. II. of this Handbook a copy of the concession, with a full description of the scheme, will be given. 3Ieantime, attention is turned to tlie adjacent rivulets and available advantageous points as adjuncts for relieving the port; hence comes the importance of the Riachuelo, the Capitania of San Fernando and the Tigre, and even Ensenada, which is eight leagues off. Thus the Port of Buenba Ayres may be considered as extending from Ensenada to the Tigre. And the nautical observations and directions in this chapter must prove useful to those engaged in the trade of the River Plate. The Outer Roads. Consist of a channel half a mile wide and three to four long, stretching N.W. to S.E. by E., between the City pank and that of Las Palmas. The water here is from nineteen to twenty-four feet deep, with a muddy bottom, but at the eastern entrance there is a bar preventing the ingress of large yessels of war ; on the bar there is only a depth of seventeen feet of water, 60 large vessels are obliged to remain outside. A good point for a large vessel to anchor in nineteen feet of water and muddy bottom is four miles distant from the mole of Buenos Ayres, with the tower of the Besidencia bearing W.S.W. It is the nearest point of the outer roads where a large vessel can lie. A little further north the depth increases one or two feet ; this is also a good station, keeping in a direct line with the belfreys of §a«ta Catalina and San Nicolas, or marking them from the south 81 degrees west. The tower on the Besidencia is the most conspicuous object on shore, and is situated in the southern part of the city. This point is called tlie Amarradcro, because in former times all European vessels anchored here. Palmas Sank. Is also called Playa Honda, is very wide, and is formed by the sand driven down by the Uruguay and Parana. On this bank the water does 134 THE PORT OF BUEKOS ATHES. not shoal rapidly ; nevertheless, great care must be taken in sounding, and not to pass seventeen feet with a vessel drawing fifteen or sixteen feet. The City Bank. The bottom on this bank is hard, and the water shoals more rapidly than on Las Palmas, and greater precautions must be taken to avoid grounding. The bar once passed the depth increases gradually, and the bottom becomes softer. When a depth of eighteen feet is reached, in order to lie as near land as possible, the anchor should be let go, when the bearings are as follows : — Custom-house, S. 38 deg. W. Kocoleta Church, S. 64 deg. W. Besidencia, S. 30deg W. Guard Ship, .... .... .... S. 50 deg. E. Distant 2' 2" miles. The best ground is in a depth of twenty -three feet at low tide. It is a kind of channel, outside of which the water is shallower. This anchorage is situated exactly in the centre of a line diree miles long from N.W. to S.E. ; this is where all the vessels in the Outer Roads anchor, from the Guard Ship outwards. The Guard Ship is anchored to the N. 72 deg. E., from the Custom-house, distant 3' 7" miles. The channel alluded to is 3' 5" miles from the mole. The Pozo Anchorage. A'essels having only fourteen feet draught will here find fifteen feet of water, oozy bottom, the Rocoleta Church bearing S.W. and the mole-head due south. To reach this anchorage it is better to take a pilot, although it is not diflicult to get to it if the following directions be observed : — Sailing towards it from the Outer Roads, the course to be steered is north 60 west, for a little more than two miles, and then edging aAvay S.W. by S. as marked on the chart, until the spot already referred to be reached. Inner Roads. They are also called Las Valizas, and extend over a short distance a mile and a-half long by three cables' lengtbs wide, running parallel to the coast from S.S.E. to N.N.W. and formed by the City Bank, and the river side; near the latter is a reef of rocks. To get in, vessels must not draw more than thirteen feet of water, and a pilot is necessary. The holding is bad, as the bottom is rocky, covered with ooze, and anchors drag easily ; the waves rise very high when the winds come from the S.E., and a storm from THE PORT OF BUE50S AYREI. 135 tbis point generally drives some vessels on shore. Good cables are absolutely necessary for anchorage in these roads in a storm from the S.E., as no help can be expected from the shore should they prove faulty. la such a case the river is greatly swollen, and the vessels drive on to the banks near the city, to the imminent risk of the lives of their crews. Some river trading vessels often set sail and ran for Las Conchas to the W. of San Isidro point, which is sheltered from the S.E wind. It must here be repeated that no vessel of tonnage should attempt to reach either the Pozo •or Inner Roads without a pilot, as in order to reach them the channels near the City and Gamaroucs Banks have to be gone through, which can only be done through landmarks combined and laid down, of the existence of which a foreigner is generally ignorant. Besides, the marks laid down for the guidance of pilots in the beginning of this century are of no use to those of the present day, in consequence of the change of position of many of the banks and channels, a change sufficiently apparent if the charts of the Baenos Ayres roads, drawa out by the Spaniards in the last century, be compared with those of Mons. Barral in 1831 , and Mr. Sidney in 1856. To the west of the Pozo anchorage, and a little nearer to the city, there is a channel through which vessels drawing less than ten feet eight inches of water can pass. It is a shelving of the City Bank, called Santa Catalina Canal, with less water than thePozo,and is much frequented by steamboats, saving them about two miles distance ; but the greatest experience is required to pass safely through it. Anchorage. As both roads are exposed to the S.E. wind, and the high sea which it raises when blowing strong, two anchors must be let go N.E., S.W., with j^nty of chain, say seventy to eighty fathoms each. It would always be well to select a spot free from ships to the S.E., so that if the wind should come from this quarter there may be no ships ahead to run foul of you, an accident very common in this port, and generally ha^^ng fatal results. With the wind from other quarters the roads are safe, and even during the pamperos, the most destructive winds in the River Plate, the water is smooth. The bad weather often prevents communication between ships and the shore. The ships being anchored so far off, communication with the shore is laborious and sometimes diOacult, days often passing before passengers can land. For this reason, all vessels should. anchor as near shore as possible. 136 THE PORT OF BUENOS AYHES. Precautions. When entering the Outer Boads great care must be taken to avoid the many sunken vessels. Two hulls have already disappeared, embedded in. the mud, and the others may be considered as so many hidden rocks, often "without buoys. The position of all cf them is perfectly known to pilots. Care should be taken in shallow water not to run on the anchors of other vessels, and vi^hen at anchor to ride with a long chain, in order not to run on your own anchors. Accidents of this nature might prove fatal in case of a fall in the river. Many captains prefer riding with a single long cable, holding themselves ready to let go another anchor if required. As so many vessels are constantly anchored in both roads, a good position should be selected clear of other ships, in order to avoid fouling, an accident that occasions many losses. The Pampero wreck in the inner roads is still visible. Piers, Before such existed passengers and goods were lauded in carts, that went out to meet the boats, at a distance of two or three cables^ lengths from the shore, but since 1855 there are two handsome piers built of wood and. iron, of from 400 to 600 metres in length. That in front of La Merced is for passengers, and that opposite the Custom-house is for goods. They are, nevertheless, not of sufficient length, for when the river is low, luggers, or even boats, have not sufficient water, and the old system of carts has to be resorted to. The depth at this part of the bank is little, in consequence of the gradual accumulation of slime. The merchandise brought by large ships, and also all that is exported, is carried in luggers destined for this purpose. Position of Jluenoi Ayres. The geographical position of this city was determined by several Spanish commissions at the end of the last century. They established an observatory in the Cabildo, and put under contribution several celestial phenomena, which aided by chronometrical comparisons with the meridian of Montevideo gave as a result 34° 36' 38" S. lat., and 52° 11' 38" W. long., which shows but a slight difference when compared with Mr. Barral's observations, thus proving the correctness and delicacy with which the Spanish geographers and astronomers of the last century worked. The difference they found between the meridians of Montevideo and Buenos Ayres was 2° 10' 16". (See Second Memoir of the Hydrographical Direction, published in Madrid, edition of 1809, page 7.) The variation of the needle is calculated at 10° N.E. for 1868 ; the annual decrease in the variation is estimated at five minutes. THE. PORT OF BUENOS ATRES. »^^ Floating Light. The Guard Ship stationed to the south of the Outer Eoads carries ever j night a fixed red light, which can be seen six or seven miles off in fine weather. The Guard Ship is painted black, and has three masts: her principal duty is to watch over the safety of the port. She is anchored in sixteen feet five inches of water, at three to five miles to the north, 72° east of the Custom-house, and forty miles north 74<^ west of the fioating light on the Chico Bank, so that steering this course from the Chico light the Outer Eoads are reached. Port Lights Every night on the Custom-house tower a white light is placed, which taken in conjunction with the floating light, points out an easterly course to the Outer Roads. Tides and Currents. The tides are of average regularity in the roads of Buenos Ayres ; when the weather is fine their mean rise is about three feet six inches. The rise lasts for about five hours, and the fall seven, running at the rate of from one to two miles an hour, but when the wind is strong the tides are very irregular. Strong winds from the S.E. cause the river to rise, and from the opposite quarter, N W., to fall, so much that the difference of level between the rise and fall is often fourteen feet three inches. On occasions of strong wind from the N.W., so low has the water often been that vessels have been left almost high and dry. In Vol. II. we will remark on this difference of level which is about ten feet five inches. Wattr Provision. The vessels anchored in the roads generally supply themselves with water from the river itself. The best point for this purpose is to the east of the Ortiz bank, particularly during westerly winds when the water is smooth. Provisions. The Buenos Ayres market supplies the sailor with all kinds of provisions, both for daily and sea use. Naval stores of all kinds can also be had from Messrs. Herring, Allinson, and Eckell, and repairs can be effected in the Tigre, at Messrs. Kay & Stephens', Marshall's and others, but at great cost ; any aid rendered to vessels also is charged highly for. Pilots. There is a corps of pilots organized under the inspection of the Captain of the Port, for the use of vessels navigating the Plate and its affluents. !38 THE PORT OF BUENOS AYRES. These men have by law the status of marine police agents in matters relating to their profession. They are obliged when entering a «hip to inform the captain as to the navigation laws, the police regulations of the rivers and roads, the system of liglits during the night, signals during hazy •weather, &c. All pilots aie provided with the river police rules, in which their duties are set forth, and rules for navigation laid down whether for night or day, sailing or steam vessels, in order to avoid collisions or other accidents. These rules are printed in live languages, Spanish, French, English, German, and Dutch, for the convenience of navigators, and a copy can be had free at the Port Captain's by any captain or master of a vessel, in order that he may not be able to plead ignorance. It is not laid down by the rules what remuneration the pilots should receive for their services, which is arranged by the pilots themselves every year, at a meeting held for the purpose, and the tariff once agreed upon it is shown to the Port Captain for his sanction. The tariff at present is more moderate than it has been for some years, as are also the port dues. In 1833 a foreign ship of 300 tons and fifteen feet draught of water, bound for Buenos Ayres, with .cargo paid — '! ©•^ndt Pilotage and entrance dues from the Punto del Indio, $420 Port pilotage, .... .... .... 90 Port dues, .... .... 300 Inspection and stamped paper, .... 30 Notary's charges, .... .... 18 Pilotage outwards leaving the river, .... ^20 Port pilotage, .... .... 90 Port dues, .... .... .... .... 300 Stamped paper, health, and notary, 50 S«,7I8 These enormous expenses frightened away foreign ships. A pilot from Montevideo to the Punto del Indio cost $700 ; but has since been immensely reduced. THE RIA.CHUELO. This rivulet forms a canal where the rain water from the surrounding flats runs into, and to which the waters of the River Plate penetrate during ordinary tides. Its principal mouth, for it has two, is about a mile S.E. of Buenos Ayres. If by dredging and other hydraulic works, the Riachuelo was a little improved upon, it would, no doubt, be the real port of the PUSTA DE SAIf ISTDRO. 139 capital. Notwithstanding its shallow entrance and the olistructions of the banks, it is the general refuge of small craft ; and once inside there is complete shelter for all necessarv operations. Inside the Eiachuelo there is from fourteen to seventeen feet at low water, but on the bar there is often not more than three and a-half feet, hence vessels drawing more than ten and a-half feet have to wait for a risen river to enter. In this natural port there is a spacious wharf on its left bank, where the numerous coasting vessels discharge and take in their cargoes. On its right banks are the saladeros, from whence are shipped the staple products of the ccuntrv, such as wool, hides, tallow, «fec. Of course, there are also numerous shops and taverns providing for the wants of the numerous maritime population. Here also small vessels are hauled up for repairs of all kind. The greatest inconvenience of the Riachuelo is the putrid state of its waters in summer, owing to the refuse from the saladeros, the stench being overpowering in warm weather. Years ago there have been projects for the canalization of theRiachuelo, so as to admit ships of all sizes, and the cutting out of docks in its adjacent flats ; and in February, 1869, President Sarmiento directed the Government engineer to draw up plans for cleansing the mouth of the Riachuelo. THE BVRRACAS. This is a point further inland on the Riachuelo, two miles from its mouth; from whence there are two roads to the city, and in connection with one of which a bridge spans the river. Its inhabitants are dependent on the neighboring saladeros and produce warehouses. It is now connected with the city by the Boca and Southern railways. E>'SENADA DE LOS OLIVQS. On passing the Retire Point, Avhich is the northern limit of the port of Ruenos Ayres, and where the present gasworks are situated, the coast recedes to the west, and forms the bay called as above, having its northern limit at Point Olivosor Sau Isidro, distant nine miles from the Retiro, bear- ing N. 40 deg. W. POIJVT SAN ISIDRO. This is a «barranca» of some sixty-eight feet high. Along this coast, about two miles to the west of Buenos Ayres, may be seen the celebrated palace of Rosas, called Palermo, where the Dictator used to reside in the summer months. Some two and a-half miles further on may also be seen the fashionable rising town of Belgrano. The coast is very shallow, and the canal narrow. ^^^ THE PORT OF BUENOS AYRES. PALERMO BANK. Is a saadbauk ia the Ensenada de los Olives, nnd near which the rivulet Cobos discharges its waters into the Plate. The towns of San Isidro and San Fernando are close to. The first of these is abreast of Point Olivos or San Isidro, two miles inland, and numbers a good many inhabitants. San Fernando is distant two miles to the N.W. from the former, and is equally well populated. When the new wharves are completed, the port of Sau Fernando will be of much importance. RIVER CONCHAS. Its mouth is about four miles distant from Point San Isidro, bearing N.W. one-quarter W. This river has sufficient water in it during the rising of the tides in the Plate to admit coasting vessels of all classes, numbers of which abandon their anchorage in the roads of Buenos Ayres during S.E. gales to take refuge here. Yet it requires practical experience of the place to run in safely, as the channels wind through the great bank of Playa Honda, and the soundings are very irregular near the coast. There is a good anchorage, with eighteen feet of water, in front of the coast of San Isidro, but it requires pilotage to reach it. LAS CONCHAS. Is a small town, similar to the previous ones mentioned, situated on the right bank of the river of same name, about three miles inland. Its inhabi- tants cultivate their lands and rear cattle. The Tigre may be called its port ; a place of rising importance and already described. DELTA OF THE PARAS i. Past the river Conchas the coast stretches to the northward , and its aspect is entirely changed. Low islands, covered with wood, and hemmed in by the great flat of Palmas or Playa Honda, which stretches out twenty miles to the S.E., having one end in the bay of Olivos and the outer roads of Buenos Ayres, and the other at the entrance to the Uruguay, even as far as Martin Garcia. All this accumulation of islands and banks^constitute the Delta of Ihe ParanA. PARANA DE LAS PALMAS. Between the many islands mentioned above are the channels by wliich the waters of the Paranji enter the Plate. These channels are arms of the river, and their entrances bear separate names, the most prominent ones of which are the Capitan, Mini, and the Palmas, the latter being of good extent. PAMPEROS. |I4,1 PARASi. GCAZU. This is the name for the principal entrance to theParani, distant twentj- Hve miles from the river Conchas, bearing N.N.E. It is the only channel bj which large vessels enter the upper river. The other channels, even whe« there is sufficient water, are narrow and tortuous, and hence are only frequented by coasters well acquainted with their windings. LARA AND SA:«TIAG0 BA?iKS, These are to the E. and E.N.E. of Point Lara, and to the iX. of Santiago. It is npt safe to pass between these two banks, as there is scarcely twelve feet of water. There is but little difference on the outer bank, it having some nine feet all over. The bay of Barrangan will be found between the bank near Points Lara and Santiago. QUILMES BAK'K. Ott passing Point Lara the S.E. end of this bank commences, and stretches abreast of Buenos Ayres, hence one end is called the Quilmes Bank, and the other end the City Bank. It is of sand, or sand and mud, which the lead * ill indicate sufficiently distinct. PAMPEROS. In the River Plate, this is the name for the strong winds which come from W. to S.S.W., and so called from their coming over the great plains called Pampas. They may be classified into two categories — local pamperos and general pamijcros. The first is of short duration, and even when it blows strong the sky is clear. The general pampero, on the contrary, comes in squalls and gusts. They have their origin in the Andes mountains, and are the great storms of these latitudes. These are the pamperos proper, called «dirtv)) in the country, and^enerally lastipg three days. In thefirsthours, particularly afternoon, the pampero is most tempestuous, accompanied by rain and thunder ; but when the sky clears, a fresh breeze follows, with fine weather. When the pamperos come in force they last sometimes for fifteen or twenty days, and vessels lying in for the river are much knocked about bv the heavy sea which they raise. When the wind shifts to the S. or N.E. and E. in general it becomes clear then, and good weather is established. H2 THE PORT OF BUEl^OS AfRES. » But thougli the pampero is stormy and to be dreaded, it is not so terrible or dangerous as the S.E. gales. If a vessel caught by such a gale is obliged to cnterthe rivef, there is no other resource than the anchors, close to a bank, if possible, but even close on shore there is no alternative. As the S.E. gales always bring rainy cloudy weather with them, it is ditlicult for the navigator to make his port. If a vessel is thus canght outside the river, and not very far, she is in danger of being driven on the coasit of Castillos. Thus it is a S.E. gale is more to be feared than a pampero, and experience shows that the wrecks nearly always are caused by winds f»om the second quarter. TJu; Approach ef a Pampero. Coming from Europe these winds are net generally met with until. lat. 30 deg. or 32 deg. S. is reached. If the wind freshens during the day from N. or N. W , and continues so after mid-day, there is certain change of weather; the change will be a pampero if the wind veers to the fourth quarter, and a mist rises, with lightning in the S, or S.S.AV, It is time then to take in sails, and prepare for the 3quall. The approach of these storms is also Indicated by any webs entangling in the shrouds of a ship, by the prevalence ofinsects brought by the hot wiiitjs.i bj the rise or fall of the river, and the suffo,cf4i»g heaviness of the previous northerly winds. The barometer shoNVs it by ^ great fall . The Cojnmencemcnt of a Pampero. Tlae sudden coming on of a pampero in summer, is during clear weather and a fresh breeze, whsn a vivid lightning appears in the S.W. If it is davtime, and the squall may be seen coming, or if the wind suddenly shifts to the N.W. or W., and thence to S.W., no time should be lost in makingr everything ready. A pampero may also pome after a calm day and hot weather, and, at times follows after strong iS.E. winds, >yhen the sky is overclouded. Duration of a Pampero. If, after a pampero has set in, the wind is string from the second quarter, and it continues to rain, it indicates a lengthened duration. The weather will not settle without many squalls from the S \V., Avhich w ill lighten the atmosphere. If, after the rising or setting of the sun, there is a lull in the wind, it denotes a subsidence or change, and though it may blow strong afterwards it will not last long. When a pampero is about to cease, the wind veers to the W., and the atmosphere clears qp; the land breeze will take its place if it be morning, if evening then the N.E. or S.E. sea breeze. SEk BREEZES. t4^ In summer pamperos are tmt of snort duration, but m winter they some- times last long ; occasionally thev pass round to the S.E. and then render the coasts obscure. During the nights it does not blow so strongly. Thes« pmperos cleanse tlie atmosphere, as the N.W. winds in the meridian of Spain, and generally there is a clear sky while they last. aTiirbanadan or Squalls. Such is the summer pampero called, and at times it bursts with terriGc violence, though, happily, but of short duration. If a Ssiiip. is under sail Avhen indications of such a squall is seen, it may be prudent not only to have the smallest possible canvas on, but also to dip the upper yards, without a moment's delay. «In 1828,)) sajs Captain Fitzroy, «we came very near to be dismasted and capsized during a pampero, although the sails were all lowered or close-reefed : it is therefore wise to take immediate precautions when the indications appear. It may be that such a squall as we then experienced maj not again be felt for thirty years. Twenty pamperos out of thirty are not dangerous, and some are only ordinary storms of short duration, and whose advent need not be feared. Years may pass without any very terrible pamperos occurring. From 1828 to 1833 there were none of very great violence, but in the latter year we had three of very great h)rce.)> Nearly always when a pampero is about to cease, the wind subsides or veers to the southward. Sometimes these storms extend out to sea, even beyond the latitude of Santa Catalina. Jf they come with clear weather, they last longer than when the sky is overcast. But in thePlatc^ and outside its entrance, the winds are very variable. The Summer Season. During the fine season, which is from September to 31arch, ]N.E. winds are prevalent ; the atmosphere is hazy, and the sky covered with clouds of undeOnable formations. As the river is approached,- the winds will be found to go round to the E., and at times blowing fresh from the S.E., with rain and dark Aveather. Inside the estuary, in good weather, the wind generally will be found to pass round the compass in twenty-four hours. A gallant-sail breeze blows from the S.E. in the evening, replaced by a similar one from the iV.E. at night, followed next day by a light wind from the westward or a calm, gradually going round to the S. vVirazon,n or Sea Breeze. This is the name for the breeze which has just been mentioned. When it is not prevalent, or baffled by winds from N. and N.W. a «turbonada» i44 THE PORT or BUENOS AYRES. from the S.W., more or less strong, must be expected before the Seabreeze* are settled. If it is hazy from sunrise until eight or nine o'clock in the morning, the «virazon» is pretty sure to follow. When the weather m settled, the wind in the morning is generally N. or N.N.W., moderate breeze, until ten or eleven o'clock in the morning. Then commences a fresh breeze from outside, from E.S.E. to E.N.E., gradually lessening after 'Sunset, until near midnight, when it generally becomes a calm. From midnight until dawn it goes round again to N. and N.E., and again traverse! the same course during the day. Thus, in general, land breezes are prevalent at nights, and sea breezes during the day, until the equilibrium of the atmosphere is upset. The Spanish pilot, Don Claudi© Vila, thus describes the weather of the River Plate : — «Good weather generally lastn fifteen or twenty days. In the mornings northerly winds blow strong and warm, increasing with the day, and at noon the sky is overcast and hazj. Soon after, a squall appears forming in the fourth quarter, with another la the S.jboth sending forth vivid lightning. Ordinarily the changes extend over two days, during which more or less rain falls, the atmosphere i« charged, and heavy black clouds are driven to and fro by the available winds prevailing. After this and a heavy thunderstorm, the sky is clear m a bell all over the third quarter, when a pampero begins to blow, but which only lasts for the day, the wind passing rapidly to the second quarter with serene weather.)) Sometimes during ordinary weather, instead of a- clouded sky, there is rain and fresh winds ; but it is not easy to foretell from whence the clouds or wind will come. If from the N., bad weather is likely to follow ; and if the wind does not go round to the south, even when it looks clear, the good weather will not then be of much longer -duration. The more overcast becomes the sky, and the more it rains and blows from the N., the stronger it must blow from the S. to clear the heavens. During the warm mouths of summer, when it does not rain much to refresh the earth and atmosphere, the northerly wind is suffocating for man and animal,, and the inhabitants attribute baneful influences to it. While it lasts the barometer is low, and continues to fall as it freshen?, which may be for three days ; the atmosphere is charged with electricity, and it ends nearly always with a gale, when the wind veers to S.W., and the equilibrium is renewed. Near the full and new moon there is generally a breeze from the S.E., with some rain ; at other times the wind continues from the N., but not so strong as that from the S.E., and with a higher temperature. The pilots of the Plate say that S.E. winds will prevail if the declination of the moon is southward, and N. winds if the dip of the moou be northward ; in the latter case, N. winds will nearly always go round to \VI>TER SEASON. . 143 JX.E. if it be dry weather, but if there be raia or dew, thea it is inclined to be N.W. At times it freshens up strong, accompanied with squalls, and runs round to S.W., clear weather : this wind brings a high sea, followed soon by a calm. The Summer Season in Buenos Ai/res. According to the observations of M. Thoyon, of the French navy, tke winds are lightest in these parts from December to March, as also more regular than during the other months of the year. It is usual for the breeze to pass in the evening to the N.E., N., and even N.N.W., blowing strong from the latter point in the morning, but eventually running to N. or N.N.E., and subsiding into a calm about eleven o'clock ; in the afternoon it revives from the E. or E.S.E., until dark, when it returns again to N. The pamperos, or S.W. winds, are very rare during these times. In summer, ate in winter, N.W. winds are warm, rainy, and disagreeable ; whilst the S. winds, after their first stormy advent bring bracing weather and a clear atmosphere. Easterly winds are cold ^nd wet, ertept the sea breezes in summer. Westerly Avinds give dry days and agreeable weather. Summer is the worst time to be in the roads of Buenos Ayres, because the S.B. winds are generally fresh during the day, and cause an awkward sea, rendering harbor work and communication with the shore rather difficult. ]y infer Sefison, The prevalent winds at the mouth of the Plate from March to September are W. and S.W., but inside they are generally from the fourth quarter. At this season, when the weather is very good, the wind goes round with the sun as in summer ; but this only happens perhaps once in a fortnight, in general the wind is from S. to E. or from >'. to W., blowing more or less jitrong successively from these quarters. N. winds bring rain, thunder, and lightning, S. winds hail, and those from the E. heavy rains. If the wind follows round with the sun, the weather is settled; but if it shifts inversely, then bad weather and strong winds may be expected. Pilot Vila savs: «In winter, if the wind comes fpom N.E., increasing, and remaining fixed z I"40 THE PORT OF BUENOS AYRKS. for one or two days, with thick weather, it is dangerous then to navigate the river without experience, especially as the islands and coasts at the entrance cannot be made out, whilst the current is setting in strong. After Tenting its strength from the second quarter, the wind passes to the first, without ceasing to rain ; it remains there for a day or two, settling in the ^. on the fourth. At the time when it enters this quarter there will appear a black horizon from the S.E. to W.N.W., then a clear space appears, and a strong pampero will begin to blow^ on the instant, clearing the sty before it. This wind continues from S.W. to W.S.W. for five or six days, clear weather and light clouds, and at the same time the current from the river begins to set out strongly. The pampero will be followed by winds from tlie second quarter, which bring on rain again ; before long it shifts to the first quarter, and then to the fourth, to be followed again by a furious- pampero, but which will not last long, and brings settled weather. » Although S. winds are more frequent and of longer duration in winter than in summer, and though N. winds generally prevail in summer, yet, at times, they occur from the opposite directions. During winter, S. winds are persistent storms, whilst in summer they are shorter, though often strong and violent. Winter Season in liven os Ay res. In these roads winter is preferable to summer, because the common winds are S.W. to IN.W.. ^^hich leaves a smooth river and easy communication, >f. Thoyon made the following observations on this season: — « The pamperos are most frequent from June to October, otherwise there are fresh and Yaricible breezes, with man)' days of calm, rain intervening between these changes. A strong breeze from the E. is almost sure to be followed by a stronger one from the W., and vice versa, whilst the weather will not settle until the wind remains in either N. orS., according to where it commenced. Thus, a breeze that springs from the W. passes to S.E., freshening up when it reaches E. or IN. E., will leap to the N.W. with a squall, returning again to W. ; but the weather will not be good until the breeze springs up again from 1N.» It may be remarked as traditional among the inhabitants of the Plate, that about Santa Rosa's holiday, Avhich is at the latter end of August, there is always a storm: the hurricane of that period in 1860 was terrific, and twenty vessels were lost in the roads of Buenos Ayres and Montevideo. ItAIRS. 147 Fogs. During autumn and winter, more especially at the mouth of the river and CD the Ortiz Bank fogs are of frequent occurrence. Don Miguel Lobo, of the Spanish navy, thus speaks of thera : «If at new moon, during autumn, the weather is hazy, with light S.E. winds, it is likely to last so for the whole month, thickening as the moon wanes, but disappearing for a short time at nine or ten o'clock in the morning. Sometimes at suurise.the fog seems gathered in the first and second quarter, but it spreads rapidly over the horizon, enveloping everything in more density than usual, and is later in clearing up. At these times fineAveather is enjoyed : and, if, during the fog, it is a little humid, when that clears up, no better weather could be \^ished; about mid-day a light sea breeze sets in. going round to the >'. later on. This most agreeable weather in the windy climate of the PJate is interrupted occasionally by a strong S.E. gale, which lasts a few hours only, and is shown by a slight fall in the barometer, which, it should be remarived, stands high when the fogs are most dense and frequent. After this weather generally follows S.W. Avinds, commencing in the W., the barometer beginning its fall twenty-four or thirty hours bijfore the change occurs.)) Inside the river fogs are not so general, as in Buenos .^yres they appear seldom but for a few hours. Bains. These are very irregular in the Plate, but are more so in autumn and spring than during the rest of the year; but when it does rain, more water falls than in many parts of Europe. It is remarked also to be more plentiful during day than night, which is the reverse of the other hemisphere. The dews are also very heavy iu these regions, equal indeed to a light rain in some parts of the world. It is not less surprising the dampness which prevails at times iu the Plate, being such iu Buenos Ayres that it affects metals and furniture, and rooms fronting to the south have damp floors and Avails. According to Sefior Azara, it is a sign of rain when a bank of clouds rise on the western horizon about sunset. Heaviness in the head when northerly wind prevails, also indicates rain, and lightning appearing in the S.W. In the city of Buenos Ayres it is a sure sign of rain if the north coast of the river is visible. Z2 148 THE PORT OF BUENOS AYRES. liefraction. There are times, mostl}' during westerly winds, when tlie river presents some strange examples of refraction. It is the general belief in Buenos Ajres when the coast of the Banda Oriental is seen from that city that a change of weather is at haud. This refraction is not always the same, as at times it permits one to see the tops of the hills of San Juan, which are some thirty-six miles off to the JN N.E., wliilst at other times the islands of the Parana and the coast between Colonia and Martin Garcia are visible. During such weather it is difficult to make any nautical observations, and impossible to regulate any chronometer in the roads of Buenos Ayres. What has been stated concerning the winds, both outside and inside the Plate, must be considered as usual or general ; but they may happen to the contrary, as they are so variable that no absolute rule can be set down as to either their point or duration, and the experience of successive years may be entirely reversed some seasons. The Barometer. Although in the River Plate the rise and fall of the barometer are not v^?rjr great, nevertheless its indications are almost ahvajs correct if consulted carefully. In settled weather its highest point is 760 milimetros, and its general range is within 1.3m. to this in ordinary weather, but muck TOorc when severe changes occur. In the months of July and August the barometer is highest, and in that of June it is lowest. Its highest is during winds from S.E. to N.E., when it reaches even 778hi. If the wind rounds. to the N., the mercury will fall, and will continue so until IS. W. blows. W, and S.W. winds produce the lowest barometer : thus it is that before ft strong pampero the barometer will fall to 746 or 744, and even to 741, but ordinarily 7 46 is below the gradation of the Puver Plate. The rising of the glass wheu the wind is S. W. indicates that it is about to cease or change to S. A liigh barometer, overcast sky, but red at sunset, threaten- ing aspect, with distant lightning, a rising river and a strong current setting ill, more especially above the Ortiz Bank, are all signs of a coming S. E. gale. From whatever point a storm comes, or if the weather is murky, the barometer falls ; but no sooner has it blown over, and the weather cleared, than it rises again. Ifit has set in for bad weather, the barometer remains lew, until the wind be S.W., when a clearing pampero sets in: ft is the same after some hours of great heat. In Buenos Ayres the TEMPERATURE. 1 ^9 barometer falls with E. and S.E. winds, but soon rises if they die out, and will not again fall if the breeze does not spring up from the W., and then, if good weather, its change is but very little. If W. winds continue, and the barometer still falls, then it will blow again from the E. In general the barometer announces easterly winds by rising, though they may be fresh breezes, and westerly winds by falling : but storms or gales of wind, from whatever quarter, are always indicated by a fall. According to the observations of Fitzroy the river is low when the glass is steady, the gradation at such time being 29.9 English (or 758m.) ; and he never noticed it to be above 30.3 (7G9m.) or lower than 29.4 (745m.) Electricity. In summer, or indeed it might be said, during the whole year, thunder- storms are very frequent ; so much so that perhaps the River Plate experiences more of them than any part of the world. They often cause damage to vessels, houses, and churches ; but such accidents are not of such recurrence as one might expect from the vividness and rapidity of the lightning. Sefior Azara states that during a N.W. storm on the 2ist January, 1793, thirty-seven thunderbolts fell in the district around Buenos Ayres, killing nineteen persons. Tern per ahire. It is of common experience to have in the one and same day a touch of the four seasons of the year, such is the extreme and rapid variation in the temperature. And though such sudden changes may affect the health, still it is certain that the climate of these parts of South America is excellent, never suffering from very extreme cold or warmth In Buenos Ayres the highest theiraometer in summer is 30, and the lowest in winter 2 above zero, some rare instances having brought it down to zero : sno"W is also very seldom seen in these regions. The average temperature of Buenos Ayres is one or two grades higher than tliat of Montevideo, probably to be attributed to the proximity of the latter to the sea, and some other topographical differences. 150 THE PORT OF BUENOS AYRES. Tides. Captain Heywood says of the tides:— «The tides of the River Plate are far from being regular, the run of the current being so uncertain in velocity, duration, and direction. It is, therefore, impossible to base any calcula- tions upon them, so that the lead has to be used for ascertaining both the soundings and the running. When it is calm weather the currents generally are not strong, and set m or out pretty regular. The currents always vary with the wind; thus, they run eastward along the northern coast of the river when the wind is IV. E., but set in, westward, strongly along the southern shore during a S.W. or pampero, the water rising amazingly : both these currents produce the contrary effect on the opposite shores. The river is lowest during N.N.E. or iN.N.W. winds, and at such times the curreut running out is on the south shore, but generally does not exceed three knots an hour; on the northern it is never very strong.* Oyarvide, during a long cruise and many anchorings about Cape San Antonio and Sanborombon Bay, up to Cape St. Mary, gives it as his opinion that the tides at the mouth of the River Plate are generally regular, being only disturbed by heavy storms and high floods, so that the irregularity, caused by the wind, concerns more the inside. He states that in the anchorage of St. Clement the tide rises six feet, running N.W. for flood, and S.E. for ebb. At the Rodeo anchorage it rises six feet five inches, and runs N. for flood and S. for the ebb. Off the tosca shores of Point Piedras it is high water full and change at lib. t5m., rising six and a-ha!f feet, and running N.N.E and S.S.W. In the port of Paloma (Cape St. Mary), the tides rise regularly five and a-half feet. At Maldonado, the highest rise during ordinary weather is six to seven feet, running S.E. for the flood and N.W. for ebbing. It should be remembered, nevertheless, that in all these ports if north winds continue long the rise is not so great, and, on the other hand, if strong south winds set in there Avill be two feet more water, even exceeding that at times, outside winds always causing higher tides. Tides in Buenos Ayres. M. Thoyou, of the French navy, remarks that the tides at Buenos Ayres are more regular than might be supposed, and pretty accurately ascertained if the observation of the weather be attended to. He states that the flood sets in generally for five hours twenty-one minutes, and the ebb seven hours five minutes : high water full and change at 7h. 47m., ordinary rise ten LOW TIDES. 1 51 feet eight iuches. «Comparing observations,)) says the same author, «and. taking into account the prevailing v^inds, which, undoubtedly have an influence, the irregularity of the tides is not so considerable as geuerallj supposed. It will be seen, though the difference be not much, that witk outside winds, such as -S.E. toS.E., the flood will commence earlier than the calculated hour, succeeded by a proportionate longer ebb : and as ordinarily the flood is of shorter duration than the ebb, it is easy to deduce that the flood will set in earlier and be of longer duration during IS.E. or S.E. Aviud, but it does not much affect the succession of tides. The flood makes in undisturbed during >\W. to S.W. winds, and the ebb is not affected if it does not blow strong from the S.W. As has been stated, the tides are pretty regular with ordinary winds from all quarters, but more so when the wind is E. or "V., even when these blow fresh. The wind has more influence at hith water, in checking the ebb, than during the flood; therefore when it blows from rs\E. round to S.W., the water is dammed in longer, whilst the Parana and Uruguay continue to discharge, so that the consequence is a much higher water and a later ebb. The reverse of this occurs with winds from N. to W. The difference in the rise of water at two consecutive tides is rarely more than three and a-half feet; but on .some occasions, when the wind has been the sadie for several days, the difference has been known to be ten or eleven feet, and with IN. and W. strong winds the difference has even been twenty feet — the water falling from thirty feet two inches to ton feet four inches. But these are very rare occasions, and it requires a combination of circumstances to produce them. As a rule, the rise and fall is not more than nineteen feet eight inches, and not less than six feet eight iuches, giving ten feet eight inches as the average. » Low Tides. Very low tides are occasioned by strong winds from N.W. to S.W. la 1792 such a wind lasted three consecutive days, and the consequence was to leave the great River Plate nearly dry in most parts. During the Inde- pendence War an extraordinary event happened in this respect : the river was so low that the Spanish squadron anchored in the outer roads blockad- ing Buenos Ayres were left aground, and the bank between the two roads appeared dry out of the water ; the Argentines seeing this passed over some artillery to attack the squadron, and opened fire on a brigantine which was almost on her beam ends ; but that moment the water began to 1&2 THE PORT OF BUE?(OS AYRKS. rise^ and they had to retire. So fast indeed did the flood flow in that, by the time the artillery got back to cross the inner roads, only the horses' heads appeared above water. Seilor Azara remarks : — The River Plate may be considered a gulf of the sea, though it preserves the freshness of its water twenty-five or thirty leagues below Buenos Ayres. The strong tides of the southern coast do not prevail here, and tlie water does not rise or fall according to the floods in the river, but is mostly affected by the winds, thus E. or S.E. wind will cause an additional rise of sevenfeet. General Movement of Waters. In regard to this M. Duperier remarks : — «Tw« causes affect the move- ment of the waters of the River Plate,; one is the proportionate strength and duration of local winds, the other, it is not certain, but presumed, m attributable to the prevailing winds, whether along the north shore or from the south at the mouth of the river. Easterly winds, and the adjacent points, will always cause the water to rise alongthe whole river ; northerly winds produce low water in the left channel, and high water in the right channel. Winds from AV. to S.W. will cause the water to fall in the whole river, as far as the Ortiz Bank, except in a part near Colonia, where the water rises in the left channel. It is true that the extent of this rise or fall will depend much on the force of the wind, but the pressure of such a mighty body of water is sufficient to move the current from one channel to the other. Respecting the rise and fall which are without any apparent local cause, it may be said they are common to the whole river. Though these effects ai'e well known, it is not easy to ascertain their immediate cause ; if observations were taken at the one and same time at several points of the river — say Montevideo, Colonia, Martin Garcia, Buenos Ayres, and the south extremity of the Ortiz Bank or Point Indio — it might be possible to arrive at some solution of this phenomena, especially if added to the experience of many years.)) As yet, however, the pilots of the river arc content with knowing by experience that always when fresh northerly winds blow, or N.W., even also N.E., the river falls considerably, and' the current runs to the S E. and S. ; and when pamperos or S.E. winds prevail, then the river rises, and the waters run S.W.. or N.W., according to the channel. But there are occasions when, without wind or any visible cause, the river rises and falls considerably. It may be these are owing to iiigh tides out at sea, or perhaps to floods in the two great affluents, the yarand and Uruguay ; if the latter, then fresh water ought to flow in the PILOTS, 15> •ehtrc of the river, leaving the sliores to bracMsh water. The movements •f the water depends also on the shiftings of the breeze. However, by attending to the rising and falling of the river, and noting the direction of the current, the change of weather can be predicted almost to a certainty. Before S.E. wind, running along the shores, the river begins to rise in the roads of Buenos Ay res . Many hours before a pampero sets in, and some- times a whole day in advance, the water rises in the port of Montevideo. AVhen the waters make eastward, shunning the northern shores, then IN.E. winds may be expected. A S.E, or S.W. gale may be expected if there is a rush of waters in, and the actual rise of water will indicate more or less the force and duration of the approaching storm : it has been known to rise twenty-one and a-half feet. The lowest river is always with the ij^ind from N.IN.E. or N.N.W. which produces an outward current, felt the strongest along the southern shore, but seldom exceeding three or four knots an hour : ordiuaiy tide currents are from one to one and a-half knots an hour. Within the harbor of Monte ^ideo, if the water rises rapidly when a strong pampero blows, it continues so for two o; three hours, and then as rapidly retires, producing a current against the wind, which in its turn causes a cross sea very annoying to vessels, especially those near the mole. During N.E. breezes the waters runup along the northern channel, but it has the inverse effect in the opposite channel. With the wind from N.E, to S,E. the waters run in a westerly direction, causing a slight rise as far as the meridian of Montevideo, but much more so above the banks inside the river. Currents. As has been stated, these are not regular within the Plate, generally following the direction of the wind. Many times they indicate in advance a coming wind : thus, if the water rises longer than during ordinary flood, and it is calm, or wind from N. by way of W. toS., then a N.E. or S.E. may be expected. Pilots. These are taken in at Jfontevideo if the vessel calls there, or at the lightship off Point Indio if she enters the Plate alone. There are always pilots in the lightship ready to board any vessel making signal for such. Though these parties are experienced and acquainted with the channels. i^4 THE PORT OF BUENOS AYRES. captains should not always place blind confidence in them, but keep a vigilant look out, consulting their charts, and taking all precautions witk the lead, &c., whilst passing the most dangerous channels. Hence, these pilots are looked upon more as advisers than trusty guides ; therefore, when the position of a ship is doubtful, and it is seen the pilot is not fully up to his business, then it is better to let go the anchor at once. Yet the rate of these pilotages are high enough, caused probably by the incomplete directions respecting the hidden dangers of the river, its uncertain and irregular soundings, as well as the fear of the traditional pampero. But up to Buenos Ayres or the Homos Islands the depth of Avater is such that vessels drawing eighteen feet may ascend in safety by paying attention to the general directions given. It is safe and advantageous to let go the anchor anywhere the lead indicates soft bottom, and the pilots avail them- selves of this very often. The Route from Montevideo to Buenos Ayrea. Since the establishment of lightships off Point Indio and the Chico Bank, this route is easy enough. Nevertheless all foreign ships take in pilots, more especially those drawing sixteen feet four inches of water, as the channel in some places is narrow and tortuous, particularly at the S.E. extremity of the Ortiz Bank. It must be borne in mind also that these banks, which impede the navigation of the Plate, are continually shifting and altering in their forms and depths, hence they canrjot be known for a certainty except by the pilots, Avho have to sound and ascertain the channels continually in conducting ships under their charge. Vessels drawing less than ten feet of water may cross the Ortiz Bank anywhere, coming from Montevideo to Buenos Ayres, as there is always ten feet eight inches over it. As a rule, when the lead gives a soft bottom mixed with sand, it is indicative of approaching a bank, and the harder it gets the nearer is the bank. Care should be always taken to have the anchors ready to let go at any moment. There are three channels between Montevideo and Buenos Ayres,— the North Channel, the Middle Channel, and the South Channel. The North Channel is between the northern shore of the river and the Ortiz Bank, and only vessels of fourteen to fifteen feet can navigate it. The Middle Channel, which is formed between the Ortiz and Chico Banks, is the deepest, and therefore the most frequented. The South Channel is between the southern shore and the Chico Bank, and is available to vessel* of sixteen feet. To pass through the North or South Ciianuels there should MIDDLE CHAIiNEL. ISo be a steady breeze, aft or on the quarter, hence thej are only used by coasters, if it can be helped. The SorOi Channel. If circumstances oblige a vessel to take this channel, and supposing the starting point to be three or four miles S. of the Cerro, it should steer W.5.W. for a time, endeavoring to ascertain the run of the current. To clear the Panela Rock, which should always be passed on the starboard side, keep the light of the Cerro nothing to E. of N.E. ^ E., until it is in line north and south >vith Point Espinillo, then put the helm to W.N.W. ^N., so as to avoid the shoals of Santa Lucia and the Barrancas de San Gregorio, Approaching Point San Gregorio, which is the extremity of the high laud, much care should be taken with the soundings. If more than twenty-nine feet of water is found, it shows the vessel to be near the Hat to the west of this point, and she should be put to port until the water shoals to twenty-three or twenty-five feet, then put her head to N.W. iW.,the Point bearing E.N.E., distant eight miles. Steering IN' .W. ^ >'. the water will gradually diminish to eighteen feet in front of Point Cufre, which should be passed within about two miles. When th's point bears >.E., put the ship's head to ^- , keepijig a moderate distance from shore, until the west point of Sauce is made, which is easily distinguished by the trees crowning its top. Once here, to give a good berth to the rocks called the Pipas, which are in mid-channel, and partly above water, and to pass in shore of them, the coast must be approached pretty near, until ihe rocks bear a point and a half or tw o points to port ; then follow the edge of the Ortiz Bank according to soundings, until Colonia appears about W. by N., and the vessel then bears for the city. The soundings, which have been imiform at about eigliteen feet, will now deepen to twenty-nine feet in the narrow channel between Point San Pedro Alcantara and the Pescadore* Bank. Making Buenos Ayres whilst steering W.S.\V\, or somewhat more S., twenty-one feet of water will be found in the Outer Roads. The Middle Channel. Before establishing the lightship off Point Indio it was necessary to make out that point for certaiYity before attempting either the Middle Channel or the South Channel. Although the facilities which the soundings and the 15G THE PORT OF BUENOS AYRES. nature of the bottom indicate are very great, still the land is so 1o\t hereabouts that this lightship is a great boon to those navigating the Plate, and forms an excellent starting point for both channels, either at day or night. The first tiling after leaving the roads of Montevideo is to make for this lightship, steering W S.W. ^ W.; but the currents in this part of the river are such that the bearings of the Cerro should be carefully Avatched as long as it is in view, until the lightship be made out, and the ship's course be thus ensured. The soundings are also a good guide. Soon after leaving the roads twenty-three and a half to twenty-five feet will be found, and whilst the depth remains nearly uniform at that, it shows the channel is well kept : if it diminishes to twenty feet and less, then the vessel is falling on the verge of the Ortiz Bank; Avhilst on the other hand, if it deepens to twenty-nine feet, it indicates a drift towards Sanborombon Bay. In each case the currents should be carefully considered, in any alteration of course. Having proceeded thirty-five miles on this course, the lightship will appear, and a vessel can bear down on her to pass on cither side, or take in pilot, if one is required, as this is their station. After passing the lightship, put the ship's head to >\W., so as to pass between the Ncav Bank and the shoals forming off the Argentine shore, meanwhile watching for the steep edges of the Ortiz Bank to the N. of the Chico. On tliis course the water should deepen from about twentj-five feet to twenty-nine and thirty-five feet, afterwards very gradually shoaling. This shoaling, and the hardening of the bottom with sand, indicate the proximity of the banks in the narrow part of the channel. If with this N.W. course the soundings are uniform, not exceeding twenty-three and a half feet, it shows that a strong current has set the vessel towards the Chico Bank : in that case steer N., even a little E. to it, if it is thought the bank is very near, until the lead gives twenty-nine or thirty-four feet as mid-cliannel : once in that water the ship^s head should be put to JN.W. again, as the steep edges of the Ortiz Bank have to be avoided, conthuiiug on the same course until the next lightship on the Chico Bank is made out. This lightship is anchored in twenty-one feet of water, off the IN.E. extremity of the Bank, and should be left on the port side. If from some cause or other this lightship is unavailable, or cannot be made out in thick weather, then- great care should be taken with the soundings, keeping close to the edge of Ortiz, but marking well the nature of the bottom. If the vessel is in tlie direct channel for Buenos Ayrcs, and in the parallel of the Ortiz Bank with the N. extremity of the Chico Bank, then the lead will give twenty-three, twenty-nine, and thirty-five feet of water, Avith soh bottom, diminishing gradually as the Santiago and Lara Banks are approached, and' continuing SOUTH CUAK^'EL. 157 SO to shoal until the roads of Buenos Ayres are reached. The northern edges of the Chico Bank are verv uneven and «lumpy,» hence care should be taken to avoid them. If thirty-nine feet or more water is found hereabouts, it shows the position to be more S. than the extreme >«.E. point of the Chico Bank, and therefore necessary to move more N. in order to avoid the Bank. If, on the contrary, the water does not exceed thirty-five feet, it indicates the edge of the Ortiz Bank to the northward of its parallel uith the point of the Chico Bank, and the ship is therefore to be put for the Argentine shore until mid-channel is reached. This lightship off the northern point of t lie Chico Bank is a great acquisition for navigating the Plate by the Middle Channel: it is anchored in twenty-five feet of water, distant thirty-four miles :<. 45 deg. W. from Point ludio lightship in direct line. The South Channel. In entering this channel it is requisite to make out the lightship off Point indio, Aviiich, as has been stated, is anchored in twenty-five feet of water, between tlie said point and the S.E. extremity of the Ortiz Bank,, and forty- three miles from the port of Montevideo. If circumstances are such that this channel is preferable to the middle channel, run along the Argentine Jhore, keeping a soft bottom with the lead until rounding the point at Bay of Barragan. In tlie first part of the run the New Bank must not be forgotten; its proximity will be indicated by the shoaling of the soundings, and the cnixture of sand with the soft bottom. The bearings from the lightship, how- ever, if that be made out rightly, will insure a safe passage here. Following tJie southern coast of the river, and keeping with the edge of the tosca ahoals which fringe it, the lead will indicate tosca and soft bottom alternatively, and nearly equal soundings. In this manner the south channel must be crept along until the churcii of the 31agdalena bears S. 28 deg. W. On the southern extremity of the Chico Bank, as well as along its edge there are twenty-three feet of water, hard bottom ; but running >\W. and S.E. there i« a strip on which no more ti»an eighteen feet of water will be found, though the bottom is soft, and it forms a narrow channel with the shore. Tiierefore, to be quite secure, this channel, which is near the Chico Bank^ should be avoided, keeping as near shore as possible for the draught of the vessel. If Point Atalaya bears S. 40 deg. AV., it is then pretty certain that the vessel is not in the channel, and should be kept off until twenty- three feet is obtained, so as to clear the Santi;>go and Lara Banks, and this depth should not diminish until abreast of Quilmcs, the same river giving 1&8 THE PORT OF BUESOS AYRES. nineteen or twenty feet in the roads of Buenos Ayres. In place of following the Argentine coast, after emerging from the south channel proper, perhaps the safest course is to steer N.W. until the Ortiz Bank is approached, and then take a course for Buenos Ayrss direct. This is by far the best course if the destination be Colonia or the Hornos Isles. Beating from Montevideo to Pointlndio. If it is necessary to tack after leaving Montevideo, care should be taken to avoid the dangers lying at the mouth of the river, such as the English Bank , the Archimedes, the Ortiz, and the shoals off the right shores of the river. The soundings and the nature of the bottom will indicate clearly the localities of the banks, and with such guidance there should be no fear to beat the distance to Point Indio. From Point Indio to Buenos Ayres. More difficulties present themselves, and more attention is necessary in beating from Point Indio to Buenos Ayres For a while, between these two points, unless the running is at least six knots an hour, the current should not be attempted to be stemmed, at least if it runs more than one or one and a-half knots. If the current runs strong, and the vessel does not make much way, it is better to come to anchor, and wait for a more favorable opportunity— change of w ind or current. After passing the lightship the first tacks should be towards the Argentine shore, so as to clear the New Bank, at least if the draught of the vessel permits it being crossed. It is quite safe to beat here if the lightship is always kept bearing somewhat E. in the outward tacks, until a tosca bottom is felt, which shows that the N.W. point of the bank is being crossed ; tlien the tacking may be prolonged to the Ortiz Bank up to twenty-one feet of Avater, returning to a similar depth in shore. It is not so uneven or broken on the edge of the Ortiz Bauk as it is on the tosca ledges lying along shore, therefore even a little less water on that bow may not be dangerous, still it is better to keep the same water, so as to avoid any outlying lumps of the bank. In this manner a vessel may beat past the New Bank to the S.E. extremity of the Chico Bank. When in the vicinity of the latter bank, six or eight trees in the neighborhood of Magdalena will appear, and while these bear S.W. quarters, a vessel may beat without fear. It will be noted now that more water will be found on the starboard side, running along the edge of the Ortiz Bank, than when making shore on the port bow. When the onibii ADVICE. 1 59 trees referred to bear S.S.W., it shows the position to be in the channel between the Ortiz and Chico Banks : they may be seen from the round-top of an ordinary vessel before the Chico Bank is reached, but from the edge of the Ortiz, say in twenty feet of water, they cannot be seen, — a vessel must be in mid-channel, and the weather clear, before they can be made out from the mast-head. Once between the Ortiz and Chico, a vessel may beat towards the former up to twenty feet without any fear ; but should not approach the latter any nearer than twenty-five feet, as its edges are very steep. When it is calculated the vessel is in the narrowest part of the middle channel, great care should be taken, the ship put about immediately if after the lead gives twenty -nine feet the next throw be two feet less. The shoaling of this bank is rather abrupt — giving twenty-three feet at first, then eighteen feet at a second cast, and the ne\t eleven feet, with hard bottom : the rapid shoaling renders the Chico the most dangerous bank in the River Plate, and being uneven in its edges, and leaving but a narrow channel between it and the Ortiz, the working of a ship past its dangers is a difficult task. Having passed this, and tacked across the channel, the soundings will be found at thirty-nine and a-half feet, which, when shoaling to thirty-two or twenty-eight and a-half fe'et, shows the pro\imity of the Santiago and Lara Banks : still the port bow may be kept to the Argentine shore until twenty-three feet is reached, which will be nearly abreast of Quilmes : perhaps only twenty-one feet will be found, but if the bottom be soft black mud the channel is good. Once up to this point a couple more tacks will reach the outer roads of Buenos Ayres. Inside the road perhaps it w ill be necessary to take one or two short tacks, to bring the vessel to a good position, but not less than two feet of water shottld always be under the keel. ADVICE. After all, it must be remembered, that all such book instructions as have been given as to the routes to Puenos Ayres are mere indications for extreme cases, and for such unforeseen circumstances that no others are available — such, for instance, as the lemoval of either of the lightships off Point ludio or the Chico Bank, from some cause or other; or during thick weather, when no marks are visible ; or if full confidence cannot be placed in the pilot on board. Otherwise, it is not advisable for any foreign captain, unless of much experience, and well knowing the landmarks, to attempt the passage to Buenos Ayres, or outward, without the assistance of a practical pilot. It should also be borne in mind that in a great estuary like <60 THE PORT OF BUENOS AYRES. this, where the currents run in such different directions, the formation of the banks is always changing, and with them the channels; hence it becomes necessary sometimes to alter the position of the lightships, from which it will be seen that the bearings and directions given can only be approximately relied upon, as the results of the then latest surveys published. More may be confided to the soundings, and the lead should always be kept going : the depth, and nature of the bottom, with careful reference to the chart, are, moreover, the best guides the pilots have. THE AFFLUENTS OF THE PLATE. The requisite knowledge for navigating the Uruguay and Parana .being only attained by practical experience, the distances on these rivers only are given here : — The Vruguaij. Miles. From the roads of Buenos Ayres to Point Gorda, at the entrance of the Uruguay, ..." 55 « Point Gorda to the Bio ISegro, 30 « Rio Negro to Gualeguaychu, .... 23 « Gualeguaychu to the Arroyo China, ... 40 « Arroyo China to Paysandu, .... 12 « Paysandu lo Concordia, .... .... 62 « Concordia to Salto, .... .... 9 « Salto to the town of Belen, 30 « Belen to the Rio Miriilai, ' 48 « Mirifiai to the Rio Ibicui, 60 « Ibicui to the town of La Cruz, .... 16 « La Cruz to Santo Tom6, .... .... 48 « Santo Tome to the Pass of Concepcion 66 « Concepcion Pass to San Javier, .... 21 « San Javier to Salto Grande, 4 miles below Pepiri, 121 The Parand. The distances of the various ports of call on this river from the roads of LlC^UUO i-t-JM-^^ '^- Miles. Miles, To the ParanA Guazu, . . . 55 To Esquina, 456 « San Pedro, . 115 « Bella Vista, . . 572 « San Nicolas, 181 « Corrientes, .. 612 « Rosario, .... . 223 « Salto de Apipe, 780 « Paran(i, . 321 « Salto dc GuairA, . . . . 1 ,070 « La Paz, . 406 SECTION C. CHAP. I. THE PROVIIN'CE OF BUENOS AYRES. The territory of the province is not very clearly defined : it is supposed to include all the area bounded on the N. by Santa Fe, on the W. by Mendoza, on the South by the Magellan's" Straits, and on the E. by the La Plata and South Atlantic. Meantime the Indians are undisputed owners of immense regions in Patagonia and the Pampas, and the settled districts of Buenos Ajres hardly exceed 70,000 square miles, which is little more than the extent of England, while the Pampas and Patagonia cover a superficies of 440,000 square miles. Part of this latter territory, at present wholly useless, is claimed by the province of Mendoza, and also by the Republic of Chile. The general appearance of the country is that of a vast plain, covered with grass or thistles, and almost destitute of trees. In the north there are numerous arroyos w hich fall into the Parana ; these have their origin in swamps or «cauadas,)) and sometimes dry up in summer time, but the rivers of Del Medio, Arrecifes, Areco, audLuxan are permanent water AA 2 THE PROVINCE OF BUENOS A\RES. courses: in the south we find some large rivers, viz., the Salado, whicb runs for 250 miles, from W. to E. and falls into the estuary of the La Plata near Cape St, Anthony ; and the Colorado and Negro, which may be regarded as the Indian frontier-line southward. Among the tributaries of the Salado are the arroyos of Las Flores, Tapalquen and Azul, which give their names to the districts they irrigate. The Rio Negro has its origin in the Andes, crossing the continent from E. to W., and is navigable almost the whole course. Further south is the Chupat river, where the Welsh colony is establislied. Among the minor streams of the south are the Chapaleofu, Tandileofii, Aapaleofu, Yivorata and Arroyo Grande, of sweet water, and the Pantanoso, Quequen-grande, Quequen Salado, Cristiano Muerto, Carmelo, 3Iulponleofu and Sauce Grande, which have a brackish taste, being impregnated with certain salts. There are numerous lagoons or lakes scattered over the various districts ; like the rivers, some of them dry up in the hot season ; they are mostly of sweet water, and invaluable for the use of the flocks and herds : the lakes of Chascomas, Bragado, 25 de Mayo, Encadenadas, Laguna de los Padres, and Mar Chiquita are the most important. The only lines of hills are those in the southern Indian country, viz., the Sierra Vulcan, Tandileofii, Tandil, Huesos, Tapalquen, Sierra Tinta, Chapaleofu, Azul, &c., which rise near Cape Corrientes, run 200 miles inland in a WNW. direction, and are lost m the Pampas: further south ^are the Curra-malal, Guanini, and Sierra Yentana, which stretch out about 100 miles. The Sierra Tinta is famous for superior marble. Among natural curiosities is worthy of mention the great rocking-stone of Tandil. The population of the province, exclusive of the city of Buenos Ayres, is returned as 319,773 souls, iri the following order — Argentines 217,325, Spaniards 18,332, French 14,594, Italians 13,768, English 12,449, Germans. 2,339, Indians 6,966, others 4,000. These returns are pretty correct in an official point of view, since they include all foreigners' children born int he country, under the classification of Argentines. If, however, we be permitted to count the families of foreign settlers as belonging to their nationality we shall find the estimates thus : — Argentines, 180,000 English, 35,000 French & Basques, 40,000 Italians, 30,000 Spaniards, 30,000 Germans, 5,000 The natives may be said to occupy themselves exclusively iri the care of horned cattle and breaking-in horses. They are intelligent, obliging, and hospitable, but fond of gambling and horse-racing, and the lower classes are entirely devoid of education. Their manner of life gives them little FOREIGlf P0PUL1.TI0IC. 3 respect for a laborious and well-organized state of society ; and as the layfs have hitherto afforded the «paisauo)) no other privilege than a life of perpetual military service, either on the frontier or in the civil wars, the result has been to demoralize the rural population. The French and Basques are found in a variety of callings — inn-keepers, artizans, shepherds, brick-makers, bullock-drivers, &c. : they are industrious and honest, seldom failing to realize an independence, and well-liked by . their neighbors. The Spaniards are sometimes shopkeepers, sometimes shepherds, chacreros, &c. The Italians are often found as pulperos or travelling huxters, and they have little shops here and there through the country. The English may be subdivided thus — Irish 30,000, Scotch, Americans, &c. 5000: the Irish have, for over 20 years, formed the bulk of the sheep-farming community, and to them is in a great measure due the staple wealth of the country ; they are mostly found in the N. and W. where they own large estancias, and their attention to the education of their children is an honorable characteristic ; each district has its own Irish clergyman, its lending library, aud its racing club. The Scotch seem to prefer the Southern camps : there are flourishing communities in the districts of San Vicente and Chascomus, where many of the estancias will call for our special attention in the tour of the campagna. The Scotch settlers were originally men of humble fortunes, but thrifty, well-informed, and laborious; it is not surprising that success has attended them. There is a Scotch chapel near Quilmes, and another on the Adela estancia near Chascomus. Of Englishmen properly so called there are very few in the camp, but we shall have to visit one or two wealthy English estancieros. North Americans are fewer still. Germans are scattered widely, some as shop-keepers, others as farmers, and the latter have some of the finest establishments in the province. In the last century the sole industry of the country consisted in killing horned cattle for their hides. Of late years the sheep business has sprung up rapidly, aud attained colossal dimensions. The country is well adapted for rearing innumerable flocks, and when the frontier is once securely fixed along the Rio JNegro we may look for further expansion to this industry. Agriculture has some draAvbacks, particularly that of want of hands, but it is making unprecedented progress in those districts connected by river or railway with the capital : the wheat crops, especially, are abundant and remunerative. The official statistics of stock are as follows: — sheep, 60,000,000; cows, 6,000,000; horses, nearly 2,000,000. This gives an average of 200 sheep, 20 cows, and 6 horses to every inhabitant, a proportion that will not be found in any other country of the globe. AA2 THE PROVmCE OF BUENOS A.YRES. The province is divided are as follows : — Partidos. San Jose de Flores, South Barracas, . . . . Zamora, .... . . . . San Vicente, . . . . Quilmes, .... . . . . Ensenada, .... . . . . Magdalena, . . . . Bivadavia (new), . . . . Biedma " . . . . Chascoraus, . • • • Banchos, .... . . . . Guardia Monte, Cafmelas, .... . . . . Lobos, .... . . . . Las Heras, . . . . Navarro, .... 3Iercedes, .... Suipacha (new), ... Chivilcoy, .... . . . , Chacabuco, . . . . IN'ueve de Julio, .... Junin, .... ... Bojas, Pergamino, ... San Nicolas, Bamallo, .... . . . . San Pedro, .... Arrecifes, ... Salto, Carmen deAreco, . . . San Antonio " ... Baradero, .... Necochea,(new), Zarate, .... Lincoln (new), Capilla del Sefior, into 72 partidos, which, with their population, Population. 5,435 5,2.50 1,255 6,030 5,286 3,140 15,807 15,590 7,588 4,432 4,933 16,409 1,670 11,195 8,937 11,664 6,063 3,053 1,326 2,615 7,042 12,561 2,054 5,789 3,514 3,478 4,187 2,39 i 4,601 3,436 4,227 Partidos. S. Andres de Giles, Villai Luxan, Pilar, Moreno, .... Las Conchas, San Fernando, Sanlsidro,. . . . Belgrano, San Martin, Moron, .... Merlo, Matauzas, .... Tordillo, Tres Arroyos (new), Castelli « Bauch « Ayacucho « Balcarce « Tuyu « Aj6, Monsalvo, . . Mar-Chiquita Loberia, Dolores, . . Vecino, Tandil, . . Azul, Las Flores, Saladillo, . . Pila, Arcnales, . . Tapalquen, 25 de Mayo, Bragado, . . BahiaBlanca, Patagones, Population. 2,834 10,292 4,313 2,063 1,681 4,112 3,649 2,946 2,666 2,914 2,003 1,313 2,386 2,922 9,577 3,333 3,365 7,466 1,600 2,143 I0,2i9 7,863 5,746 3,361 9,645 2,000 8,821 4,222 2,168 2,300 PRmCIPAL TOWTTS. 5 The principal camp towns are— San Nicolas, on the Parana, 8,000 inhabitants; Mercedes, a flourishing western town, 6,000; Villa Luxan, surrounded by Irish sheepfarmers, 5,500 ; Chivilcoy, the centre of the agricultural districts, 3,500; Dolores, in the south, 4,800; San Pedro, on the Parana, 3,248 ; Chascomus, the terminus of the Southern Railway, 4,000; Lobos, a busy little place, 5,000; Azul, near the Indian frontier, 5,000: Navarro, another sheepfarming centre, 3,000; San Fernando, a port for coasting traflSc, 3,000; Belgrano, a fashionable summer residence, 2,500; Carmen de Areco, in the north, 2,000; Quilmes, famous for its chacras, 2,500 ; Barracas, where the saladeros are situated, 3,000 ; Salto, 2,000; Las Hores, 2,000; Magdalena, 2,000; Ranchos, 1,600; Rojas, 1,700; San Jose de Flores, 1,500; Veinte-Cinco de Mayo, 1,500; Bahia Blanca, 1,500; Patagones, 1,350; San Antonio de Areco, 1,200; Moron, 1,205; Capilla del Seuor, 1,152; Pilar, 1,000; San Yicente, 1,000; Pergaraino, 1.500; Arrecifes, 1,000; Baradero, 1,000. As a rule the northern camps are high, and, in dry seasons, exposed to drought: in 1859 a million horned cattle perished, and their carcases covered the country far and wide. The southern camps, on the contrary, are low, and suffer in wet seasons from a superabundance of water. ccThe soil,)) says an intelligent Scotch writer, wis in general very rich and produces, at certain seasons, luxuriant crops of natural clover, in which horses and cattle may be seen wading knee-deep. Even during a 'seca,* when the camp is as bare as a turnpike-road, the flocks contrive to subsist, though in an emaciated condition, on thistle seeds, which are scattered in great abundance over the ground. The climate is agreeable, and I have seldom seen finer-looking men than Europeans who have resided long in the country, and those of European descent. The spring is the pleasantest season, being neither too hot nor too cold. The earth, too, is covered with a rich carpet of clover and thistles, and looks as fine as any country with such a flat face can do. As summer approaches the heat becomes excessive. The thistles, which before looked like a crop of turnips, suddenly spring up to a height of ten or eleven feet, armed with strong prickles, forming dense jungles impenetrable to man or beast. The appearance of the country undergoes a complete change in the course of a week or two. The horizon, with its known landmarks, is suddenly hidden from view, and one scarcely knows where to steer. About Christmas (midsummer) the thistles are all in full bloom, and soon droop and die. The grass grows yellow, withers, and disappears. Pamperos, tremendous gales from the west, arise and sweep away all* remains of vegetation. These hurricanes are so charged with dust and dead thistles that day becomes as dark as night. Travellers 6 IHE PROVINCE OF BUENOS AYEES. lose all idea of their course, and often AYander astray. Even the natives, who possess an instinct like that of the pigeon, make absurd mistakes. Tropical rains fall in winter, and the whole country becomes a SAvamp. After the rain, liowever, Nature, like a phoenix, rises from the ashes, and the earth turns green again. Snow may not be seen for a generation, but ice is not uncommon, and the wind is often piercingly cold. The climate is healthy to the healthy, but unsuitable for invalids, especially those with consumptive tendencies.)) Among the animals peculiar to the country is the ((biscacho,)) which is classed by naturalists among the family of Chinchillidae and order of Rodentia. (cBiscachosw are an abhorrence to sheepfarmers, as they burrow the land in all directions, and there is much danger to persons galloping after dark, of the horse stumbling over a wbiscachera.)) The «biscachos» remain underground during tlie day, and it is remarkable that a peculiar breed of owls inhabit the same burrows with them. After sunset the traveller will see these strange animals sitting or running about at the mouth of their burrow ; but, of a sudden, they utter a strange cry and dive down out of sight. Another curious animal is the wpeludo)) or armadillo, which burrows in the ground, but leaves no opening behind it. «Peludos)) are considered by the natives as a very dainty dish, being cooked and served up in the shell : the flavor is almost too rich and savoury. «Mulitas)) are almost the same as «peludos,)) and also mucli in request as an article of food. These animals have such powerful claws that if once they get their head under ground it is impossible to pull them out. In the more distant camps w^e sometimes hear of wild dogs (perros cimarrones) which go about like wolves, in large packs, doing much havoc among sheep. The acomadreja)) is an animal between the weasel and the otter ; it is fond •f sucking eggs, and has a pouch, like the opossum, for carrying about its young. Rats, mice, and frogs are abundant in all parts of the country ; and among venemous reptiles are found the «escuerzo,)) a deadly kind of toad, and the «Vivora de la Cruz,)) a small snake so called from its having a cross on its head; the latter kind of reptile is very rare. The other animals comprise ostriches, «nutrias,)) pole-cats, and tiger-cats : «nutrias)) are much esteemed for their skins, in which the Indians carry on some trade. Tiger-cats arc about double the size of the domestic animal. Birds are as scarce as trees 'in Buenos Ayres, if we except game, which is very abundant: the country swarms with wild duck, partridge, and a species of horned plover, called «tero-tero)) from the cry which it makes. There is a kind of hawk or vulture called «chimango,)) wliich picks out the eyes of young lambs; the «carancho)) is another kind, somewhat larger, TREES AVD SHRUBS. 7 and both these birds are a kind of scavengers, specially provided by Nature for carrying off the carrion that infests the camps on all sides. Parrots are often found in large numbers. The «Pica-flor,» or humming- bird, is one of the tiniest and prettiest of the feathered tribe ; it is no larger than a bee, of the most beautiful and variegated hues, and lives by sipping from the flowers, like a butterfly : there is also the (fHornero)) or «oven-bird,)) a little larger than a lark, whichbuilds its nest of mud on the fork of a tree ; the nest is about th^ size of a man's head, the walls an inch thick, and almost as strong as a brick. Tiie botanist will find little to interest him in the Pampas : nevertheless the apita)) or flowering-aloe is a beautiful plant, indigenous to the country. It is usually seen forming a fence in the suburban quintas, and has a fine effect, springing up to a height of .30 feet, and at the basQ it is surrounded by large prickly leaves, 7 or 8 feet long, and 5 or 6 inches in thickness. The inner substance is a fibrous matter from which some excellent twine has been made. The «tuna)> is sometimes confounded with the «pita,)) but the former seems rather of the cactus family. The fences formed by these plants have often proved impenetrable even to the Indians. The chief ornament of these plains is the «Ombu,» which casts out its branches to a great extent and affords a cool and refreshing shade ; the foliage is dark green; it is invaluable as a landmark, and Don Luis Dominguez has sung its praises in very eloquent strains. Poplars grow abundantly in the south, paradise-trees in the north, and peach-trees everywhere ; these last are useful not only for their fruit, but for supplying firewood, and they are cut down every three years. Grapes, figs, and other European fruits thrive here admirably, as also the vegetables in common use in England. In fact nearly all the products of the temperate zones and the tropics are reared with little difliculty other than that caused by the ants. Australian gum-trees acquire a Avonderful height and bulk in three or four years, and the Government endeavored, a couple of years ago, to induce the natives to plant it largely. There are many pretty field flowers, apparently indigenous, but the science of horticultuse is comparatively new and limited to the commoner kinds of garden-flowers, although the camelias seem much finer than are usual in Europe. Thirty years ago all travelling in the camp was done on horseback, and the natives still make light of galloping 100 or even 150 miles in a day. «Diligencias)) or mail-coaches, when first introduced, were drawn by a dozen horses yoked sideways by a girth or «cincha. The want of bridges over the arroyos often made this method of travelling exceedingly troublesome and tedious. At present there are railways north, south, and 8 THE PROVINCE OF BUENOS ATRES. west, traversing the country for two hundred miles, and in connection with them a number of «diligencias,)) which renders travelling easy and expeditious. Goods and produce are transported by troops of ten or a dozen bullock-carts, which are ugly, cumbersome, vehicles, built on ponderous wheels ; they travel about 20 miles a day ; the bullock-drivers urge on the oxen with long goads; these men have a life of extreme hardship, living always in the open air, without other home or shelter than the shadow of their rude waggons. ♦ The Province of Buenos Ayres was an independent Republic from the fall of Rosas, in 1852, till the reconstruction of the Argentine Confederation in 1861; it is now one of the fourteen united provinces, having its owa Governor, Legislature, and local authorities, and being represented in the National Congress by two Senators and twelve Deputies. The Governor is elected for three years, and has two 3Iinisters of State, for the Home and Finance Departments. The Senators and, Deputies for the Provincial Legislature are elected by the various districts, in the rate of a Senator for every 12,000, and a Deputy for every 6,000 inliabitants : the first sit for three years, the se;cond for two. The judicial authorities comprise a High Court of Justice (from which there is appeal to the Federal tribunal), the Tribunal of Commerce, District Courts at 3Iercedes, San Nicolas and Dolores, Justices of Primera Instancia, and the ordinary Justices of Peace for the respective partidos. The administration of the laws is necessarily imperfect, owing to the difficulty of organizing a proper police force in so extended a country, and the want of respect towards the'public magistrates : the Justice of the Peace, in the camp districts, is usually a grocer or sheep-farmer, and the Alcaldes and Tenientes often belong to the humblest class of «paisanos.» Each partido has also its municipal board^ to which foreigners are eligible. The ecclesiastical division of the province coincides with the judicial, and each partido has its Cura, with one or two assistant clergymen, who are often Italian priests. Public instruction meets with every possible favor from Government, and the various camp-towns boast handsome state-schools ; meantime the education of the Fural population offers great difficulties, partly oAving to the distances intervening between the scattered towns, and still more to the habits and character of the gauchos. The total number of children attending state-schools in the camp is returned at 5,903, in a population of 320,000 souls. The number of National Guards amounts to 32,320, and from these are drawn contingents for the Indian frontier : all foreigners^ are exempt from this laborious and unpleasant service. CATTLE rARHIIfG. CHAP. II. LIFE IN THE CAMP. CATTLE-FARMIHG. The business of horned cattle is almost entirely in the hands of natives, and it formed for nearly three centuries the sole occupation of the Spanish settlers. It seems incredible, and yet it is no less true, that horses and cows were unknown before the time of Alvaro ?(uuez, otherwise called Cabeza de Yaca (cow's head), who brought out the first cattle from Spain, A.D. 1541, since which time they have increased so prodigiously as to number several millions, notwithstanding the enormous slaughter, during so many years, of millions of cows and mares, merely for their hides. The rearing of cattle is still extensively carried on, for the saladeros, where the hides, bones, and flesh are turned to account, the trade in jerked beef being very considerable, for the markets of Cuba and Brazil. Estancias for horned cattle usually vary from one to ten square leagues in extent, while those on the frontier are even much larger ; they abound in «pasto fuerte« or coarse grass, which stands th« dry seasons better than the meadow grass or trefoil on which sheep are pastured : the former must be entirely eaten down before the fide grasses spring up. The estanciero takes care to select a piece of land bordered by a river, or having permanent lagoons, and as free as possible from thistles, hemlock and burr. In building his house he is guided by his taste or means; a mud rancho costs about £40 to £60, a house of adobes or sun-dried bricks about double the above amount; and sometimes we find luxurious residences that cost over a thousand pounds sterling. The «corrales» are large folds for enclosing the cattle, whenever this is found necessary ; they are made of upright posts 7 feet high, of a hard wood called uaudubay, fastened together by means of cross bars and hide thongs, the «corrales» are round in form, and strongly made, so as to hold a large number of cattle ; 10 I-IPE IN THE CAMP. the gate consists of two or three transverse bars. The «corral» is always near the estancia house. The umonte)> or «quiuta,» surrounding the house, comprises an extensive peach-orchard, visible several leagues off. In three years peach-trees arrive at maturity, and they serve the double purpose of fruit and fuel, besides making fences. One third of the plantation is cut down at intervals, and planted afresh, and in this manner the supply of fruit and timber is constant and abundant. The staff of an estancia usually consists of a Majordorao, who represents the master, an expert capataz to oversee the peons, and half-a-dozen to twenty peons or servants, according to the size of the estancia ; these last earn $250* to ^^oO (£2 to £3) a month ; they also get their food — an unlimited supply of beef and some «yerba.)) The stock of an estancia often numbers ten thousand head, divided into herds of two or three thousand each, which two men can easily care. Each herd is gathered up every night to its «rodeo,» an open space, where each animal regularly chooses its own place to lie down ; they remain there till after sunrise, when they set off again to graze. Cows calve once a year, heifers as early as two years ; they live to about 15 or 20 years of age, and their milk is rich and of excellent flavor. The legs and horns are longer than in English breeds. The stock of horned cattle in the province is set down at 6,000,000 head, and the annual slaughter in thc^aladeros exceeds half-a-million, independent of the consumption for the city markets. The oxen broken for the plough or bullock-cart are remarkably gentle, and of symmetrical proportions. Formerly there were large- quantities of «alzada)) or wild cattle, but the Indians have left but few on the frontiers. In seasons of drought cattle sometimes stray hundreds of miles in quest of water, but unless they calve on their new pastures they invariably return to their aquerencia)) after the drought. Sometimes the cattle are watered by means of a «balde sinfondo,» which raises water from a well, and is worked by a man rni horseback ; it can water 2,000 head of cattle in a day. Cattle-farming until recently Avas not considered so lucrative, but, when properly attended to it gives very fair results, say 20_ to 30 per cent, on the capital invested. Herds of cattle, from 1,000 upwards, may be purchased atgGO or §80m/c (say 10 to 13 shillings) a head. Land is so dear in the sheep-farming districts that the estanciero has to choose an estancia in the southern partidos of Pila, Vecino, Monsalvo, or Loberia, but he must beware of the western frontier, which is much ' exposed to Indians. As a rule the business of horned cattle, does not at all suit foreign settlers, although some have in a measure combined it with the care of sheep. HABITS OF THE «PAISAKOS.» 11 The great season of amusement in camp life is the Yerra or marking- time. All the peons of the estancia, and others from the neighborhood, drive the cattle into the « corrals : » each animal is caught with a lasso bj a man on horseback, then tied down, and a red hot iron with the owner's monogram or mark is planted on the poor brute's flank, while a blue smoke curls upward from the smoking flesh: the mark so made is indelible, and this is the way that estancieros distinguish their property, there being no fences or bounds to the various estancias. The Yerra always winds up with a feast of «carne-con-cuero,» or meat cooked in the hide, than which nothing can be more savory ; neither coals nor wood must be employed in cooking it, but only bones, and it eats best cold. Horses are marked in the same manner as horned cattle, and when sold must receive the counter-mark of the first owner as well as the brand of the purchaser, which custom sadly disfigures many fine animals. The Gauchos are very clever in breaking-in horses, following a method very akin to that of Karey ; they tie one of the horse's legs, and put him through a tiresome ordeal, then mount him, ride him about a mile, tie him up for a day without food, and before a week the animal is quite tame aud broken-in. Nothing is so wonderful as the dexterity of the natives in throwing the lasso ; their aim is almost unerring ; they will single out a horse or cow in the middle of a herd and bring him down with unfailing precision. They will also pursue an animal in full chase across the plains, and, when thejr get sufliciently near, the lasso is swung twice or thrice around their head, then let go, aud the moment it touches the runaway cow the horse of the rider stands still, to receive the shock, and down goes the cow headlong on the ground. Another way of catching horses is with the «bolas : » these are three round stones or iron balls, about the size of an egg, covered with raw hide, aud fastened to a strip of hide about five feet long. They are thrown much like the lasso, at a distance of sixty or seventy yards, with unerring aim, and, entangling the feet of the pursued animal, bring him to the ground with a violent shock. The Gauchos are also very clever in plaiting bridles of uutanned hide thongs, and their great ambition is to caparison their horses with elaborate • silver trappings, often worth a £100 sterling. Their own dress is, moreover, tasteful and fantastic : instead of pantaloous they wear a (cchiripa)) of striped Avoollen stuff, fitting loosely about the thighs, and exceedingly convenient on horseback ; this is fastened by a leathern «tirador)) ornamented with silver buttons, and in this, at their back, they stick a knife with silver or leathern scabbard. Under the «chiripa)) they wear white cotton drawers Avith a fringe twelve inches deep : the boots were formerly «botas de potro» formed of the untanned 12 LIFE I]N THE CAMP. skin of a colt's legs, leaving the wearer's toes quite bare, and the big toe exactly fitted the little wooden stirrup which they used ; but now they are beginning very generally to wear the ordinary boots. Besides the tttiradoD) they wear a long «faja)) or sash of red silk, tied around the waist. The «poncho» completes the dress : it is like a table cover, with a slit in the middle to admit the head, and varying in value from a few shillings to £50 ; the finest are those made of vicuna wool, woven by the natives of the upper provinces. The rich estancieros usually live in the city, in great fashion and luxury, leaving their establishments in charge cf a amayordomo,)) and going out once or twice a year to see how things go on; they are men of polished manners, good education, and often members of learned professions. Their great fault is an absolute neglect to improve the condition and manners of the «paisanos)) on their estates. The «gauchos» live in wretched «i:anchos,» of which the rafters and frame-work are stalks of the aloe or canes, the sides are plastered with mud, and the roof is of «paja)) or reeds that grow in the lagoons. The furniture consists of a wooden stool or bench, a few horses' or cows' heads that are used for seats, and a cowhide stretched on stakes, which serves as the family bed. The cooking is done in the open air with an «asador)) or spit that is stuck into the ground, and a large three-legged pot : sometimes a little oven is built near the «rancho.» ^The most important piece of furniture, however, is the (crecado)) or native saddle, which is very complicated and consists of hide-trappings and cloths that as often serve the «gaucho)> for his bed ; the wrecado is a very comfortable saddle for a long journey, but tires the horse more than the ordinary saddle. The ordinary price of a «recado,» complete, is about £5, and the best^street in the city to buy it in, is Calle Buen Orden. TJie business of cattle-farming will receive a great impulse and prove much more lucrative if Mr. Bailey's project succeeds, of importing live cattle from the Biver Plate into England. Hitherto all efforts in Buenos Ayres to export cured beef for the English markets have failed to create a staple trade. Meantime the exportation of dry and salted hides has kept up a very active business : according to Lennuyeux's tables we find 2,054,824 cow hides exported in the year ending September 12, 1868 ; this, however, shews a decline of 10 per cent, on the previous year. The export of horse-hides amounted to 104,053, being also less than in 1867. The tallow trade has, however, increased notably : we find 77,188 pipes and 20,233 boxes for 18G8, an increase of more than 50 per cent. If the National Government would take the export duties off produce the farming business would be as remunerative as ever. SHEEP-FARMISG. 13 S11EEP-FABMI5G. The Province of Buenos Ayres counts 60,000,000 of sheep, which give avield of about 3tt a head, or lS0,000,0001i unwashed wool. The sheep- farms cover over 40,000,000 acres, being 1^ sheep per acre, and the number of shepherds may be estimated at 60,000, of which at least a quarter are Irish or Scotch, and the Basques also form a large proportion. Buenos Ayres closely competes with Australia for the rank of first sheep- farming country in the world, and wool now forms the great staple of our home production and export trade, the annual value of this item being about £3,000,000 sterling. Only thirty years ago, previous to the time of Sheridan and Harratt, sheep were of no value; they were what was termed «creole,» and the wool, not being worth the freight to town, was often thrown in the «corral)> to make a footing for the animals. Slieep were merely raised for food, and held entirely by natives ; they were hardly worth a paper dollar, say fourpeuce, each. Peter Sheridan was an Irishman, John Harrat an Englishman, and they were the first to import fine sheep into Buenos Ayres, their example being soon followed by John Hannah (a Scotchman), Stegman (a German}, and others. As soon as attention was turned to this branch of industry many people took it up, and went out into the camp, beginning with a flock or 500 or 1,000 : the Irishmea. in particular, of the saladeiOs of Barracas, who had laid by a little money, bought flocks of sheep at a few pence per head, and laid the foundation of the larg:e fortunes that many of them have since amassed. In 1852 the number of sheep was estimated at 4,500,000. With the refinement of the breed, and the improved attention paid to sheep, a market speedily sprung up for the wool, and sheep rose in value till 1859, when they were worth ten shillings a head. 3Ieautime the Irish farmers had steadily gone on purchasing all lands offered for sale, and paying as high as £8,000 per square league, or twenty-six shillings an acre (being five times the price of farm lands in the United States). They also spent money lavishly in the refinem^ent of their flocks, sometimes giving £150 or £200 sterling for a prize ram of the Rambouillet or Negretti breeds. Sheep-farming reached its height in 1860, when the flocks counted nearly 14,000,000 sheep; the farmers had made such fortunes ihat a sheep-fever seized the town-folk, and lawyers, shop-keepers, tailors, saddlers, midwives, &c. embarked iu the business. The demand for rented land was so great that «puesfos» for a single flock of sheep fetched as much as £80 a year, and the scarcity of hands being felt the farmers 14 ' LIFE IK THE CAMP. sent home money to Ireland to bring out their relatives. ^..^..^^ well for a couple of years, but, on the conclusion of the war in the United States, the price of wool fell, while the depreciation of our currency caused a corresponding rise in wages and all items of farming expenses. The wars of Flores and Paraguay, and the troubles of the interior caused a disastrous increase of taxation that weighed almost exclusively on the sheep-farmers and producing classes, who saw their Splendid profits vanish from before their eyes, and sheep-farming henceforward did little more than pay the current expenses. But greater trials were in store for them. The increase of sheep was so rapid, doubling in five or six years, tliat there were no longer purchasers for the extra stock, nor lands whereon to place it, and the amount of wool being proportionably increased its price suffered a further ruinous decline. In 1867 the high rate of wages, rent, and provisions, coupled with a fall of nearly 50 per cent, in the price of wool, as compared with 1864, reduced the value of sheep to about twenty pence ($IOm^), and, as if to crown the affliction of the farmers, the cholera brok^ out with terrible virulence, causing the most unparallelled havoc throughout all the partidos. Two thousand Irish perished, including some wealthy estancieros, and in many cases their flocks wandered about the camp, there being no one to claim them. Since then a season of recuperation has set in. The price of wool has indeed, improved slightly, and sheep no longer offer the prospect of a brilliant venture as in days gone by. Nevertheless a new form of industry has sprung up, in the melting down of sheep for their grease, which has so much enhanced the value of the flocks that sheep have risen to g 20 a head. There are graserias now established in all parts, and it may be estimated that 5,000,000 sheep are melted down per annum. The following comparative statement will show the steady increase in the export of wool : — • Year. ■ Bales. 1860-61 .... .... .... 60.734 1861-62 1862-63 1863-64 1864-65 1865-66 1866-67 1867-68 1868-69 estimated clip, 67,161 88,780 96,679 130,860 150,453 155,078 180,000 200;000 SHEEP ESTATfCUS. 15 The increase in the exportation of sheepskins has been still more remarkable, viz. : — Year. Bales. 1860-61 .... 8,888 1861-62 10,706 1862-63 13,960 1863-6i .... .... .... 16,733 1864-65 • 19,855 1865-66 .... .... .... 20,761 1866-67 29,924 1867-68 40,035 It is to be remarked that in 1868 no fewer than sixteen new tanneries were established, which reduced the exportation of sheepskins by at least 2,000,000 skins. Sheep estancias are generally smaller than those for horned cattle, say from half-a-Ieague to four or five square leagues in extent. Some Irish estaucieros have only half a square league (say 3,000 acres) with a stock of 10,000 sheep; others have estates of four or more square leagues, stocked ■with 100,000 sheep and upwards. A flock usually counts 1,500 to 3,000 sheep, and is managed by one man on horseback. The flocks of different estancias, and even those of the same estancia, are distinguished by the ftscual,)) or peculiar mark cut in the ear. The pastures of the sheepfarms consist of fine grasses, which, in summer, are protected by forests of gigantic thistles from the scorciiing heat of the sun. Frontier lands are found unsuited for sheep, till the course grasses have been eaten down by cattle. There are certain poisonous herbs, such as «romerilla)) and «mio-m!0,» which sometimes cause great losses in flocks. Sheep also die from eating white clay, or getting the leech in low, marshy, lands. The scab is a great plague to sheep-farmers, but of late years the application of extract-of-tobacco is used with much success as a remedy. Perez Mendoza recommends lit of tobacco juice to five quarts of water, to be rubbed daily to the parts affected, or a mixture of 4^ of grease with lU of turpentine and iU of Swedish tar, applied in like manner : for prevention of the disease he prescribes good pastures, cleancorrals, and well ventilated sheds. The profits of sheepfarming are a subject that has exhausted the calculations of the oldest farmers and the ablest economists in the country. At one time it was generally believed that a flock of sheep, minded by the owner in person, gave 80 or 100 per cent, per annum. The increased expenses and depreciation of the currencj brought dewn the estimate to 60 or 70 per cent. Subsequently, the burthen of new taxes, and decline 16 LIFE m THE CAMP. in the wool markets of the world, reduced the gains to barely 20 per cent., and this is probably the maximum figure that can now be quoted. New comers going into the sheep business consist of — 1st. Men of capital, say from £5,000 upwards; 2nd. Those who have a few hundred pounds ; 3rd. Those who have nothing at all. The first class may calculate as follows: — Half square league of land, .... .... '£3,000 10,000 sheep at 35 1 ,500 House and corrals, .... .... .... 100 Carts, horses, implements, .... 200 Provisions and wages, 1st |^ year, 200 This will give — first year — 1,500^ of wool at 8s., £600 2,000 sheep for graseria at 3s., .... .... 300 —£900 Deduct— Three peons, at £30, £90 Groceries, &c., .... .... .... 100 Personal expenses, .... .... 160 Rams, 100 —£450 Nett profits, £450 Leaving a nett gain of 9 per cent on the capital invested, independent of the increase of the flock ; and this Will go on in arithmetical proportion at the rate of 20 per cent, per annum. The majority of intending sheep-farmers, however, are young men with a sum of, say £300, and their best manner of proceeding is this. They arrange with some estanciero to buy the half a flock, and enter with him as «medianero.)) Thus a 1,000 sheep at 3s. cost £150, leaving the remaining £150 for the expenses of the first year ; the estanciero sometimes goes half in the cost of rancho and corrals; he give? the wmedianero)) a piece of ground about ten wcuadras)) by 10 (say 400 acres) rent free. The flock will comprise 2,000 sheep, the «niedianero» minding the estanciero's half, iu return for the land. This is the safest way to begin sheepfarming, as the estanciero gives every assistance to the beginner ; and, in this way; many of our wealthiest proprietors commenced life. The partnership usually lasts three years, in which term the flock doubles, and the «medianero)» has 2,000 sheep of his oWn, and looks out for a piece of rented land whereon to settle. The terra ((medianero» signifies «on halves,)) as all SHEEP 05 THIRDS. 17 expenses and profits are shared evenly between him and the estanciero . The wmedianero)) system obtains only in the province of Buenos A.yres, •where it has proved most advantageous for all parties : it is not known in Entre Rios or the Banda Oriental. The 3rd class of immigrants, by far the most numerous, and formerly the most successful, consists of those who land on our shores without a shilling. They begin as peons or servants, hiring with some estanciero at £oO a year ($300 per month) to mind a flock of sheep ; they are found in horse and provisions, sleeping either at the estancia house, or in a rancho on some part of the land. Their life is a rude one, especially if quartered in a rancho with no other company than a couple of dogs. They have to cook and wash for themselves, digging a little quinta in the intervals of recreation when the sheep are quietly grazing ; but, every now and then they have to run up the ladder at the gable-end of the rancho, to see that the sheep are not straying or in danger of mixing with a neighbor's flock. For such contingency a horse is always kept ready saddled at the «palenque,)> near the entrance to the hut. If the shepherd has a taste for reading he can take a book with him into the camp, and lying down beside his horse pass the day in this manner. Sometimes the «puestero)) or shepherd does not return home till sundown, when the sheep are always shut into their ttcorral,)) which is a square or oblong enclosure fenced with American pine. At night he makes his lonely supper and lies down on a rude coucli, not unfrequently a pile of sheepskins, to rise again before day ; and this is the round of a «puestero's» life. It often happens that when a man has proved himself to be steady and sober, the estanciero gives him a flock of sheep on thirds, that is the peon gets one third the increase of the flock and the same proportion of the nett proceeds of the wool. Under ordinary circumstances the «tercero,» as he is then called, becomes owner of half a flock in three or four years, and then he goes into partnership as «medianero,» in the manner already describe^. The «tercero)) has no expenses of any kind, being found in everything by his employer, and he often lays by a little money each year, as he spends not much on clothes or tlie comforts of life. A stranger is astonished at the rudeness of this mode of life, especially when he finds, as often happens, that the occupant of the hut is a man who has moved in fashionable society. The life of a «puestero» is certainly healthy, and free from the gnawing cares of city life, but its great drawback is solitude. The poor man, of humble origin, who has his wife and family around him, is comparatively comfortable and happy ; but, a man of reduced fortune BB 18 LIFE IIS THE CAMP. can seldom reconcile himself to the idea of asking a woman of his own position to share the rude home of a raneho. At present camp-life is much improved, in comparison with ten years ago. Railways have placed the principal estancias within a day's journey of town, and the little comforts or necessaries of life are easier procured. Most of the sheep-farmers are subscribers to some of the London or Irish papers, and the Irish clergymen have established lending-libraries in the various districts for the use of their parishioners. In every Irish house, too, is found a tutor who teaches the children the rudiments of education ; these tutors are paid from £3 to £5 a month and treated as a member of the family, for which reason young men arriving here without money often hire in this capacity. The Irish shepherds, -living within four or five leagues of a town, gallop in on Sunday mornings to attend at Mass, and get their copy of the Weekly Standard with all the latest news from town. Those who live within easy reach of a railway station get the daily papers, and the taste for reading has wonderfully increased in the last few years. The Irish clergymen resident in the camp are always attentive to the spiritual wants of their countrymen, and also act as friends and counsellors, since they enjoy universal confidence. It is right to add that the Irish sheep- farmers are very liberal to their pastors, even in times of comparative di.stress. The Scotch sheep-farms in the south are well worthy of especial notice : the neatness, style, and good order, both in the estancia house and all its belongings, are very pleasing to the visitor. You are sure to find also, a good supply of books, and on Sundays the farmers attend their kirk, although having to ride some leagues. The Scotch were among the first to start as sheep-farmers, and some of them to-day are richer even than the wealthiest Irish, but their numbers are relatively small. In the better class of Scotch and Irish estancias the traveller will find all the comforts and many of the luxuries of civilized life ; but should he be benighted and obliged to stop at the humblest raneho of one or other of his countrymen he is sure to find the warmest-hearted hospitality. It is no less true that the poorest gaucho is by nature most hospitable ; he will give the stranger the best his house can afford, and gladly cede his only bed to the weary traveller. Within the last two years a number of courageous Englishmen, of good family and education and with a capital of a few hundred pounds each, have establislied themselves on the Indian frontier, some beyond Azul, others in Patagonia, with the object of raising sheep and cattle. Nothing can exceed the hardship of such a life, and it is not without its dangers also. LARD AND SHEEP Olf THE FROSTIER. 19 For immigrants of this class it may be well to advise them that the Govern- ment of Buenos Ayres gives a free grant of a square league of land for a certain term of years, on the expiration of which the settler receives aright of «enfiteusis,» which has Always a marketable value ; and if the settler wish to become absolute owner of the land he has the preference as a purchaser at the price fixed by law and on long credits. There are always many wealthy natives owning land in the frontier partidos, who are only too anxious to find steady foreigners to take sheep and cattle in partnership, and for this the immigrant needs no capital. The reason why foreigners are in such request for this purpose, is, that natives are liable at any moment to be taken up for military service, and the condition on Which the estanciero receives these frontier lands from Government is to keep a house and certain quantity of stock on the ground. Life in the camp has a peculiar charm for young men emancipated from the office desk. The free air and bounding steed give an elasticity and vigor both to mind and body that cannot be expressed. The savory taste of meat cooked on an aasadorw surpasses the finest cookery of European «chefs-de-cuisine.)) The complete liberty of thought and action induce a buoyancy of feeling that compensates for all the hardships undergone ; and it is a strange fact that young men who have distinguished themselves in universities and ball-rooms get quite an affection for camp-life. This, however, wears off when one reaches about 30 years of age;, we get tired of the camp and its dull monotony, and sigh for the refinement and comfort of city life. There are many people in Buenos Ayres who are so disgusted with all remembrances of camp-life that they can hardly be induced to mount a horse or even visit an estanciero friend. Fortunes have been made in the camp, and are still to be made in minding sheep : one thing is requisite, the shepherd must stick to his sheep as close as possible, live very economically, and abhor the sight of a «pulperia.» We shall now begin our tour through the partidoz, beginning with the north, and in every instance the distance will be calculated to the chief town or centre of the partido. BB2 20 THE RIVERINE PARTIDOS. CHAP. II. THE RIVERINE PARTIDOS. FROM BELGRANO TO SAIS KICOLAS. Belgrano. This partido does not properly form one of the camp districts, being merely a suburb of Buenos xiyres, and as such it has been described in Section B. It is bounded on the North and East by the River Plate, on the N.W. by San Isidro, andontheS.W. by San Martin and Flores : it covers two square leagues. The Municipality is composed of six members, and has a revenue of about 500,000 myb- per annum. The property valuation amounts to 25,000,000, against 12,000,000 in 1862. The state-schools are attended by 76 boys and 89 girls. The largest land holders are — Name. Cuadras. Name. Cuadras James White, 278 Colin, 35 L. Oliver, 100 L. Torres, 40 L. Saavedra, 110 Tantilian, 24 R. Sebastiani, 67 Castillo, family, 74 F. Plowes, 53 Cabrera, .... 30 M. Lebrero, 23 Munita Bros., 40 Bias Gonsalez, 80 L. Goya, 20 P. Calderon, 42i Scher, .... 20 Corbalan, .... 29 John Malcolm, 18 There are fifty smaller chacras, making, with the above, a total of 10,000 acres under tillage. There are also 227 handsome country-seats, of which the principal are — SAN TSIDRO. Name. Value. Name. Value. P. Berger, . . $.300,000 L. Walter, . ... S^ 50,000 Esteves Sagui, . . 200,000 Machain, 140,000 Francischelli, . . 250,000 Lardapide, 120,000 Serna, 250,000 Ciappi, 120,000 Solanet, 150,000 Caprile, 200,000 P. Guerin, 150,000 Acosta, 150,000 R. Newton, 150,000 Chateauneuf, 200,000 Mrs. F. GoAvland, 150,000 Haycroft, 200,000 Morillo, 250,000 Tobal, 216,000 Leslie, 140,000 Santamaria, 150,000 Caraino, 150,000 Sanguinetti, 160,000 B. Costa, 180,000 Rocba, 150,000 A. Clas, 125,000 Petrocchi, 230,000 Groteon, 150,000 Piran, 150,000 Hartenfels, 150,000 J.M'Donnell, . 124,000 Iturraspe, 150,000 Elias, .... 180,000 r. Miro, 150,000 Calvo, 140,000 Piaggio, 250,000 Caulein, 200,000 Ravier, 220,000 Bosch, 140,000 Amorins, 150,000 This partido incli ides Palermo, the former residence of Rosas. (Sc Section B). San 1 'sidro. 21 Situate five leagues North of the city, is alike remarkable for the beauty of its situation and the fertility of its grain chacras. Along the barranca overlooking the River Plate there is a succession of charming quintas, which make San Isidro a most fashionable residence in the summer months. The largest land-holders are — Name. Cuadras. Name. Cuadras. L. Uriarte, 480 M. Elias, 53i M. Aguirre, 2i0 Posas, .... 53i Azcuenaga Bros., . . . 187 G. Rua, 60 A. Pacheco, ... 160 B. Marquez, 48 L. Jlartinez, 106^ M. Perez, .... 48 J. de Luca, 104 A. Castei, 40 Saenz-Valiente, . . . . 58^ M. Gutierrez, 40 Seilora Omar, . . . . 86 M. Baptista, 37 V. Escalada, . . . . 80 1 M. Alvarez, 34 22 THE RIVERINE PARTIDOS. Value. Name. Value. g250,000 Haedo, .... 100,000 250,000 Velasquez, .... 120,000 250,000 Wineberg, .... 48,000 200,000 P. Anchorena, .... 180,000 200,000 Ituarte, 130,000 C. Saenz-Valiente, 160,000 130,000 E. Anchorena, .... 180,000 150,000 Selaya, .... 100,000 150,000 Segismundo, .... 200,000 150,000 Vernet, .... 40,000 There are numerous handsome residences surrounded, each, by a few acres of pleasure-ground, and the following are the principal : — -Natne. T. Anchorena, . . . S. Campodonico, Ui'ibelarrea, .... B. Saenz-Valiente, Juan Cano, .... Mrs. Mackinlay, E. Marquez, ... M'Lean, Paravicini, . . . , James Brittain, . . . Elortondo, Among smaller holdings are those of Denby, Moore, Hunt, Yateman, Nelson, Tornquist, Sinclair, and other foreign residents. The total property valuation amounts to 16,000,000, against 1 4 000,000 in 1862. The quiutas and chacras are mostly cultivated by Basques and Italians, who make much money in supplying Buenos Ayres with hay, wheat, maize, and vegetables. About thirty years ago the district was much infested with gaucho highwaymen. The partido formerly comprised four square leagues, but on the formation of Belgrano it lost half its territory. It contains at present 1508 chacras, covering about 10,000 acres, all under cultivation. The farming-stock consists of 4126 horned cattle, 1.267 horses, 760 sheep, and soQie swine. The population of the partido is set down as follows : — Argentines 2793, Italians 459, Spaniards 202, Trench 150, English 45 — ■ Total, 3,649. There are — a Justice of Peace, 8 Alcaldes, 42 police, and 380 National Guards. The village of San Isidro was founded in the beginning of the last century, and has a very ancient look. The church stands on a high ground, with a plaza in front and a fine view of the coast. Araujo relates that, in the year 1706, the inhabitants of all the territory lying between Las Conchas river and the Arroyo Maldonado being destitute of religious service, a gentleman named Domingo Acasuso, who was a Spanish captain and a native of Madrid, resolved to build a chapel here in honor of St. Isidore ; for this purpose he endowed the parish Avith a pension of $2,000, and a site of ground 300 yards x 6,000. The chapel was inaugurated on Pentecost Sunday 1708, its first curate being Rev. Fernando Ruiz Corredor. There are — an inn, 3 drapers' shops, 28 smaller stores, and about 600 inhabitants, who have a Municipality composed of four members. There SAN FERNANDO. 23 is a good public school, attended by 72 boys and 46 girls. The Northern Railway places San Isidro w ithin an hour's journey from town, and the morning papers are delivered in time for breakfast. The post-master is Don Emilio Sarracan. There is no doctor resident in the place. The beach offers good bathing, but it is dangerous to ride along the coast owing to quicksands. The boundaries of the partido arc — N.E. the River Plate, N.W. San Fernando, S.W. San Martin, S.E. White's chacra (Belgrano). Contribucion or property tax, $6i,000. Justice of Peace, Don Manuel Omar; Curate, Rev. Diego Palma. San Fernando. Situate seven leagues from Buenos Ayres, is, like San Isidro, remarkable for quintas and chacras. It is bounded on theN. andE. by the River Plate, on the N.W. by the Rio Las Conchas, on the W. by San Martin, and on the South by San Isidro. It includes, moreover, a number of fertile islands in what is called the Delta of the Parana. Sau Fernando is important, no less for its agriculture than for its coasting trade : it has a good and safe port, where many river craft put in with cargoes of fire-wood, posts, &c. Mr. Hopkins' project of canalising the Capitan will prove most beneficial, and a branch railway will be run down to the river's side, Tvhere wharves are already in construction. The arrivals in coasting-craft for the year amount to 262 vessels with au aggregate of 6,664 tons cargo. The islands are mostly in a high state of cultivation, having been sold or ceded a few years ago to a number of industrious Frenchmen, Basques and Swiss. In M. Brunet's island there is constant employment for over 100 laborers, who raise abundant crops of potatoes and other products. Such is the extraordinary fertility of these islands that we are told of pumpkins which take two men to carry them, and potatoes weighing fis much as lOti. The quinces also grow to an enormous size, and the rapidity with which poplars, peaches, and other trees spring up is incredible. It is thought these islands would be well adapted to the growth of rice. The islands of President Sarmiento, Sefior Pifleyro, &c. are also well tilled. The inhabitants of course go about in boats, and there is a school attended by 100 children who travel everyday in the same manner. The town of San Fernando has 3,000 inhabitants and the rest of the district 1,1 12, but this cannot be supposed to include the islanders. The extent of the partido is about 2 square leagues, of which nearly one- half is under agriculture. The largest proprietors are — 24 THE RIVERIWE PARTIDOS. Name. Value. Name. Value. Thomas Valle, 300,000 Anjel Croza, 150,000 Ybafiez, 400,000 Crisol, 130,000 A. Conde, . . . . 190,000 Lima, .... 200,000 G. Espinosa, . . . . 180,000 P. Yillaruel, 350,000 Seilora Castro, . . . . 120,000 P. Vela, 180,000 Justo, 145,000 P. Almandos, . . . 130,000 George Drabble, 200,000 L. Almandos, . . . 120,000 Pietranera, .... 150,000 Catelin, 200,000 J. Rodriguez, 150,000 Salguero, 150,000 There are smaller holdings, viz., those of Russell Shaw, Billinghurst, Bletcher, Delfino, Fusoni, Gloede, Hughes, Pringles, and other foreign residents. The total property valuation exceeds 16,000,000 against 15,000,000 in 1863. The church was founded in the beginning of the present century, but a larger one is being constructed in the plaza. There are two good hotels, and omnibuses ply to the railway station : at the Hotel National, kept by Monsieur Manet, the traveller can procure horses or carriages for excursions. The club gives balls on Sunday evenings in Summer. The town has its own Justice of Peace and Municipality, and boasts a resident doctor, an apothecary, 6 midwives, 5 bakers, 2 silver- smiths, 3 blacksmith, 5 carpenters, 1 chandlery, 3 tailors, 1 saddler, 2 hair- dressers, 6 billiard-tables, 4 draperies, 21 small stores, and 189 houses. There are 256 National Guards, and the police authorities number 5 Alcaldes, 20 Tenientes, and 12 policemen. The farming-stock comprises 439 cows, 338 horses, 2445 sheep. The population returns give — 3,305 Argentines, 116 Spaniards, 77 French, 458 Italians, 156 English, (fee. Besides private schools there are those of the State, attended by 59 boys and 69 girls. San Fernando has long been a favorite resort in the hot season, and since the opening of tlie Northern railway it is placed within easy reach of the city. Justice of Peace, Don Adolfo Insiarte ; Curate, Rev. Bernardo Repetto ; Postmaster, Don Luis Lan. Las Conchas. Between the rivers Lujan and Las Conchas, a territory of about six leagues, once was located the tribe of Guacunambis consisting of six hundred families, but the exact locality of this Indian settlement is unknown. In the year 1614 the Spaniards kept a special guard here to stop smuggling from Colonia, and in the year 1720 the first settlement of the present town was made. The principal landholder at that time was Don Juan Ponce de Leon, who out of his own pocket defrayed the expenses LAS CONCHAS. 25 of building the church. Owing to the village being built on the margin of a swamp its progress was very slow. In the year 1820 Don Lorenzo Lopez built a Capilla, the Government having contributed $1^,000. The wealthy native families of Buenos Ayres have country residences in Las Conchas, and in summer it is one of the gayest places about town. Nothing can be pleasanter than a boating excursion in the Luxan, Conchas and Tigre rivers, which are overshadowed by large willow-trees, and bordered on either side by elegant country-seats. Getting out of the train at the Tigre terminus we take a boat and descend the stream. On the right is the Capitania, a wooden house on poles, similar to the shanties and shops that make up the Tigre village. Zurueta's quinta adjoins the boat-house of the English yacht club, and further on are nestling in the trees the cottages of Uparaguirre, Aguirre, Urioste, and Dolz. On the left is Canedo's, and lower down a stylish building, much resembling a church.; this is the summer residence of Don Eduardo Madero. In high floods all about here is a swamp. Marshall of Barracas has a yard for building steamers on the right, and next comes Vivanco's quinta ; pulling out into the wide river of Luxan, there is a charming view on all sides, and here is always a number of steamers lying up for repairs. Ascending the Luxan river, which was anciently called Rio de Corpus Christi, we pass, on the left, the site marked out by Bubio and Foley for the terminus of the new line and the landing wharf of the proposed port : there is always over 10 feet of water here, even when the Tigre is almost dry. Tigers are sometimes seen here, and Mr. Milberg has caged two, which he trapped on his own ground : they descend the Parand in seasons of «creciente,» on the camelotes or floating islands of brushwood. The Tigre is the port for embarkation in the up-river steamers, which lie close along theAvharf; at the railway station M. Champion keeps an excellent restaurant. There is also a good hotel on the Conchas side, kept by Mr. Cramer: ferry boats charge \$m,x: for going across. Mr. C. has good wines and boats, and horses or waggonettes may also be procured. Adjoining the hotel is the dockyard of Stevens and Kay, where you will sometimes see as many as 120 operatives at work, building or repairing steamboats, iron launches, &c. ; this is a great establishment, begun in 1868, and they can build a small steamer in three to four months; the machinery is from Glasgow ; Messrs. S. & K. have another foundry in the cit)' at Paseo Julio. If we take a boat to ascend the Tigre we shall find a succession of delightful country-seats. Those of Garrigos, Tejedor, and Gonzales Moreno are princely, and after Cobo's, Del Campo's and Balbin's we pass under a picturesque wooden bridge ; now the river takes a bend^ 26 THE RIVERI5E PARTIDOS. and on the right is a charming cottage belonging to Dr. Alvarellos, after which come those of Lynch, Balbin, Majeste and Schultz. On the right is the Lavadero of Sefior Zumaran, which does a great business in washing wool and sheepskins ; next is another cottage of the Lynch family, and further is that of Dr. Scrivener, the only English resident in these picturesque but swampy regions. During the cholera of 1867 the Doctor lent such valuable service, gratis, that the Municipality of Las Conchas presented him with a gold medal. Mr. Lawson's quinta comes next: all these sequestered cottages have bathing-houses, stairs down to the water's edge, and a boat. The Tigre is navigable about a league further, but the only places we meet are Joffii's cane-cutting establishment and a deserted house that was built a couple of years ago by half-a-dozen Cerman clerks as a summer residence. Returning to the Tigre station we remark in its vicinity the quintas of Romero, Martinez, and Anciso. The village of Las Conchas preserves some very ancient-looking houses with corridors and tile-roofs, which remind us of the time when this was the limit of the Indian frontier northwards. The church is very neat, with an antique portico : the altar and sacristy were put up, in the last century, at the expense of a pious lady named Magdalena Bonelo, and the first Mass was celebrated by a friar named Goy tia. There are numerous quintas in the neighbourhood belonging to the following families — Rocha, Bulrich, Calzadilla, Carrega, Acuila, Cebey, Castrelo, Alcorta, Com!, Schleeper, Ibanez, Muuoa, Hernandez, Brilli, Acevez, Arana, and that of Sefior Mufioz is remarkably fine. The vegetation about here is rapid and luxuriant : in summer the quintas are full of the richest fruits and flowers. Las Conchas is about 2i miles from town, and will shortly be connected with Buenos Ayres by two lines of railway ; the "Western branch-line will start from Floresta and cross the Tigre near the wooden bridge ; it seems the Northern Railway also proposes to throw a bridge over to Las Conchas island, and make its terminus likewise on the Luxan river. The partido is subject to frequent inundations, being mostly below water level, which accounts for its amazing fertility. It is intersected by two large rivers ; the Luxan and Las Conchas. The former has its rise in the camps beyond Mercedes, and the latter is formed by the confluence of the arroyos La Choza and Durazno, near the town of Moreno. The Canada Escobar and arroyos Tigre, Garcia, Las Tunas, &c., also form a part of the water system of Las Conchas, where they unite with the Parana. The Partido covers three square leagues, which are chiefly under cultivation. The largest landed proprietors are, John Milberg 1200 cuadras, Anjel Pacheco (whose place is valued at ^1,000, 000 m/c-), and ZARATE. 27 Villamajor 1 188 cuadras : these are estancieros, and there are nine smaller estancias. The stock comprises, 6,250 cows, 2,650 horses, 57,369 sheep. The boundaries of the partido are — N. and E. the Parana, S. San Fernando, and W. Pilar. ' The population is set down at 1,681, including 373 in the village; the nationalities are thus distributed, 862 Argentines, 435 Italians, 169 Spaniards, 32 French, 179 English and others, 1 Indian. There are 21 general stores ; also a Justice of Peace, Municipality of four members, 60 National Guards, 4 Alcaldes, 17 Tenientes, and 9 policemen. The State school is attended by 25 boys and 52 girls. The total property valaation is 7,000,000, against 3,000,000 in 1862. Contribucion or property tax, $28,000. Justice and Postmaster, Don Damaso del Campo ; Curate, Rev. Geronimo Rebagliata. Zarate. Situate 16 leagues N. of Buenos Ayres, on the banks of the Parana, is the first sheepfarming district we meet. It was formerly part of the Capilla del Seuor, till 1856. The land is very high and ill-suited for sheep, but good for grain crops. Of late years the plantation of cereals has been actively increased, and we find a large number of chacras. The Partido is supposed to cover 20 square leagues : there are 59 estancias and 140 tillage farms. The land of the former is valued at $600,000. that of the chacras at nearly double this figure, per square league. The total extent under tillage is 20,000 acres. The principal estancias are- Name. Lima, family, Latorre, family, Insua, .... Soler, .... Acebey, .... Saavedra, J. Fox, . ;. . J. Celery, . Leagues. 4 Name. Murray, 3 Gelves, 3| Hermida, H Castex, 2 Pujol, Rqmero, i Barrios, family. S. Leagues. f The estancias of Lima and Saavedra occupy the «rincon» formed by the confluence of the Areco river and Canada Honda with that branch of the Parana called Rio de Baradero. The La Torre property is called Las Palmas, from an old Jesuit establishment of the same name which existed here in the last century : the ruins of the chapel of the Fathers are still to be seen; there are also a fine plantation of «tala» and an excellent port for 28 THE RIVERINE PARTIDOS. coasting traiBc. The Insua estancia is S.E. of the river of Areco, and reaches to the boundary of Capilla del Sefior. Mr. Fox's place is close to the Arroyo Pesqueria, about two leagues S.W. of Zarate. The Irish population is about 100. The town, although a river port, is very poor, having only three houses valued over ^60,000: those of Silvano, Soler, and Saavedra. Don Constancio Silvano owns nine houses : his property is valued at $500,000ra/c. Mrs. Cullen has also a house. The importance of Zarate consists in its river trade, and during the Paraguayan war it Avas the great port for shipping horses for headquarters. The steamers up and down the river call here twice a week each way. Tlie Italian boatmen do a large business in firewood, charcoal and iiandubay posts. Zarate probably takes its name from the Vice-roy Zarate, and there are still numbers of the inhabitants who bear the same name. The town has a new church, a State school, 4 billiard-rooms, 3 inns, 20 shops, and a cockpit. It stands on a barranca 60 feet over the river, and the port is in low marshy ground, where Sig. Silvano has built a wharf. The state-school is attended by 53 boys and same number of girls. Zarate has a Justice of Peace, Municipality, 4 Alcaldes, 16 Tenientes, 10 policemen, and 470 National Guards. The population of the district is returned as — Argentines 3,185, Germans 5, Spaniards 49, French 72, Italians 86, English 39 ; total 3,436 : of this number the town has about 700. There are 836 houses in the partido. The stock is estimated at 32,139 cows, 13,832 horses, 390,970 sheep, and 6,679 swine. The landed property is valued at 15,000,000, against 8,000,000 in 1861. The principal chacras are tliose of Anta, Acebey, Conde, Balvidares,Gaetan,Palacios, Sosa, Silvano, Vidal, and Zarate. Post-master, D. Luis S. Martinez. A few leaguesbelow Zarate is Port Campana, where Dr. Costa has a fine estancia. Near this point several affluents fall into the Parand, viz.: the Arroyo Romero and La Graz, Arroyo de Moujan, and the Pesqueria. The river Areco and Canada Honda empty their waters a little above Saavedra's estancia. Some of the islands fronting Zarate are settled on, with cattle and sheep farms. This branch of the Paraui is called «de las Palmas,» from the old Jesuit port above-mentioned. Contribucion tax, $60,000. Curate, Rev. Nicolas Aquerone ; Justice, Don Romulo Nazar. Baradero. Situate 27 leagues N. of Buenos Ayres, is a large sheepfarming department, with a superficies of 41 square leagues. BARADERO. 29 There are ninety-two estancias, of which the principal are — Name. S. Leagues. Name. S LeagHos. Gastex, family, .... 11 Eosell, i P. Lynch, .... 8 Rodriguez, .... i San Martin, family, 3 Alsina, .... i EdNvard Wallace, 1 Troucoso, i George Macorae, 1 Salas, M. O'Rourke, i P. Whclan, 1 4 M. Brennan, i J. Murtagh, ... ^ Camauos, family. 1 Pereyra, .... i Casco, family, 1 Pifiero, .... i Sierra, 1 Muriuigo, .... i Passo, H Gelves, 1 8 S. Gomez, 1 Figuerroa, .... Tapia, family, 1 Gabriotti, .... i Magallanes, i Yillaruel, ... ^ Medina, .... i B£. Gounaughtiu, i The lands are well stocked, the returns showing an average of 1 ,000 cows, 2.50 horses, and 1.3,000 sheep to the square league. The Gastex estancia lies on the north bank of the river Areco, and comprises six distinct properties, belonging to Ramon, Pedro, Fermin, Feliciano, Mariano, and Indalecia Gastex : this fine estate is also watered by the Arroyo Doblado, which falls into the Areco river. The estancias of Lynch and ^Yallace are on the Gauada Honda, but Lynch has a second estate on the Rio de Arrecifes. Macome and Gomez are also on the Arrecifes river. The San Martin lands extend southward from Baradero to the mouth of the Areco river. The O'Rourke estancia is near the Gauada Bellaca; and Murtagh and Whelan are further south, near Gauada Los Tores. There are many Irishmen on rented land, besides medianeros, e%c., and the total Irish population is about 300. The estancia land is valued at $iOO,000 per league. The stock consists of 40,8G3 cows, 9,573 horses, 328,680 mestiza sheep, 6,032 refined do., and 10,8i8 Creole do.; I,8i0 swine. There are 696 cliacras let out to tenants ; each chacra is 200 yards wide by 200 long ; the annual rent of each is §90, and they can be purchased out and out at an upshot price of $600. Thequintas are 100 yards long by 100 wide ; tkere are 284 of these occupied by tenants, at an annual rent of $30 each. The boundaries of the partido are — N. the Parand and San Pedro, W. the river Arrecifes, S. San Antonio de Areco and Zarate, and E. the Paraqd. Opposite Baradero is a difficult pass in the river, called iSueve Vueltas. 30 THE RIVERIKE PARTIDOS. Baradero owes its importance to the Swiss Colony, established here in 185G, which has been so prosperous that some of the colonists have amassed as much as £8,000 sterling, and others almost as large fortunes. These industrious settlers arrived here Avithout a shilling and fortunately met a good friend and protector in Colonel Gainza, who induced the Municipality to grant them chacras of 3 cuadras each at a nominal price. Thej liave about 10,000 acres under tillage, and supply the various river ports with butter, potatoes, &c. (For full details of the colony see page 31, Section A). Baradero is one of the oldest towns in the province : it was founded in 1616 by the venerable Luis Bolailos, a Franciscan friar, who accompanied St. Francis- Solano in his perilous missions among the Guarani, Mbiguay, and Chanas Indians. Tlie chapel was dedicated to St. James, and Padre Valdivia became its first curate in 1628; sometime later the parish was incorporated with that of Arrecifes, biit again restored in 1781. Although so ancient, it is a poor village, there being only nine houses valued at ^50,000, viz., those of Alsiua^Basabilvaso, Cabriotti, Casco, Frumento, Falconieri, MonsalvOji Piilero, and Puppo. Post-master, Don Juan Antonio Alonzo. The Municipality commenced in 1859 a large school-house on the barranca, which remained many years unfinished, but the Government has now given $200,000 for its completion, and it is intended, moreover, to receive boarders from the neighboring districts. The population of the partido is set down thus — Argentines 3,709, Germans 282, Spaniards 90, French 162, English 95, Italians 242, others 20— total 4,601. There are 139 houses and 780 ranches, including an apothecary's shop, 2 inns, 10 draperies, 35 stores, 3 brick-kilns, and several timber-yards. The state-school is attended by 122 boys, and 64 girls, besides which there are private schools attended by 61 boys and 59 girls. The land in this partido is considered very good for sheepfarming, although only valued at 3^00,000 a league. It is so thickly settled on, that it would be difficult to find any to rent or buy. The Irish farmers have prospered here, and their numbers greatly increased during the last ten years. The landed property is valued at 20,000,000, against 13,000,000 in 1862. The partido is well watered, by the Arrecifes river and Canada Honda, besides having a considerable front on the River Parana. The steamers call at Baradero twice a week, each way. The Municipality consists of 6 members : there are also a Justice of the Peace, 1 4 Alcaldes and Tenientes, 14 policemen, and 1,000 National Guards. The port returns shew 343 vessels with an aggregate of 4,205 tons for the year. Municipal income, $2 40, 000; Contribuciou or property tax, $80,000. In 1867 the Provincial Bank established a branch at Baradero for this district SAW PEDRO. 31 and the adjoining ones of Zarate and Capilla del Sefior, with a capital of $2,000,000 mfc. Justice, Don Carlos Lynch ; Curate, Rev. Francisco Bianchi. San Pedro. Situate 31 leagues IV. of Buenos Ayres, is another fine sheep-farming district, with an area of 52 square leagues. It comprises 63 estancias, of which the following are the principal : — Name. Llavallol, 3. Leagues 3 Name. G. Palacios, .... S. Leagues If Jose Castro, 2i Quiroga, 1 Lorenzo Gomez, 2i Urraco, i Luis Obligado, Pastor Obligado, . 2i 2| Laserna, Villar, Manuel Cobo, 2 Buiz Diaz, .... f Bruno Castro, 2 Ex. Castro, f Leslie, .... 2 Pio Acosta, .... f Laprida, Villalon, 1 1 Eoque Palacios, Buiz Moreno, Magallaues, H There are also four Iri.sh estancias, that of Mr. John Harrington being well laid out ; the others are those of Luke Doyle, T. AVheeler, and Thomas Fallon. Besides these there are numerous other Irish farmers, mostly on rented ground, all doing well, viz. : Michael Dogherty, J. Kehoe, Thomas Young, Michael McDonald, J. Cronin, and the Messrs. Finnery, who have 7,000 or 8,000 sheep each. The land is valued at $150,000 per league : total valuation 21,000,000, against 7,000.000 in 1862; Coutribucion $84,000. Tliere are three square leagues of public or municipal lauds, and the Municipality seeks to form a colony like that of Baradero, in «chacras» of 12 acres each. The returns of stock shew, 101,564 cows, 23,185 horses, 7,144 fine sheep, 613,790 mestiza do., 67,8iO creole do., and 1,217 pigs. The Leslie estancia, called Estrella del Norte, may be considered the model one of the north, as regards elegance, comfort and good order. The house is a handsome residence, and stands on a rising ground, surrounded with pleasure-gardens, and the accommodations are in keeping with the hospitable character of its owner. There is a good portion of ground under tillage, and the estancia has permanent water, being bounded by the Arrecifes river : the stock qf sheep is large and of superior quality, the peon's huts are neat English cabins, the w orkshops of the establishment 32 THE RIVERINE PARTIDOS. are large and fully fitted with presses, forge and every requisite for baling the wool on the spot, previous to shipment. There are spacious sheds for rearing of fine sheep, storing hay, &c., and for the shearing of the flocks. The cattle-farm is at the old estancia house, near the Arrecifes river. The estancia forms a «rincon» between the Tala and Arrecifes rivers. The Llavallol estancia has a port on the Parana, at the mouth of a stream called Las Hermanas, where the steamers call : this is another fine establishment, the owner being a wealthy Spanish merchant, . Avho has spared no expense in all modern improvements. A few leagues lower down is the Obligado estancia, where Rosas vainly attempted to close the Parana against the English and French fleets. Don Pastor Obligado was the first cojistutional Governor of Buenos Ayres after the fall of Rosas: there are several Irish farmers on his estancia. Opposite to Obligado is a large island called Las Lechiguanas ; near this is a pass called Touelero, and the Arroyos Espinillo and Cueros debouch a little lower down. The boundaries of San Pedro are — N. the Parana and Ramallo, W. Ramallo, S. Baradero, and E. the. Parana. The town of San Pedro is large, but built in a straggling manner along the barranca, which commands a panoramic view of the Parana and its numberless islands. There are some 30 good shops, and an inn is kept by Don Martin Pagardoy (agent for the Standard), where horses can also be procured. The town has also achurch, state-schools, a graseria for melting down sheep, two resident doctors, several brick-kilns, and 3,248 inliabitants. The Rev. John B. Leahy, Irish curate, is about to establish a library for the use of his countrymen of this district, who number with their families about 1,000 souls. Father Leahy has also to attend his countrymen in the districts of Arrecifes, Pergamino and San Nicolas, embracing a territory of nearly 3,000 square miles. The town of San Pedro has 86 rateable houses, the best being tho.se of 3Iamberto, Molina, Palacios, Molero, Casco, Banegas, Urreta, Quiroga, Aguirre, Telechea, Pardo, Lantero, Gafferot, Camelino, Arricta, Bibolian, Chacon, Salas, Auese, Belizan, Magallanes, Biancardi, Rubio, Villar, Ruedas, Paredes, Soler, and Quiroga : the house "property of the town is valued about ^4,000,000. The population of the district is returned thus — Argentines 4,923, English 340, Italians 182, Spaniards 150, French 124, Germans 7, others 63— total 5,789. There are 254 houses, and 95i ranchos, and 189 chacras. The Slunicipality consists of seven members, besides which there are — a Justice of Peace, curate, 3 Alcaldes, 9 Teuieutes, 1 1 policemen, and 638 National Guards. Steamers touch at Sau Pedra almost daily. The port returns for the year shew 254 vessels with an aggregate of 3994 tons. mSCO:^ DE R\MALLO. 33 The state-schools are attended by 60 boys and 52 girls. Post-master, DonEugenio Arnaldo. Some of the estaucias above enumerated no longer belong to San Pedro, having been incorporated in the new partido of Ramallo ; of these the principal are — the estaneias of Llavallol, Gomez, Laprida, and Luis Obligado, besides the smaller properties of Olmos and Arias on the Arroyo Las Hermanas. In the above list for San Pedro we have casually omitted the estaucia of Demarchi, one and a half square leagues, and Juaua Perez Millan, one league, both situate on the Arroyo del Tala. The partido is Avell watered on all sides, by the rivers Parana and Arrecifes, and the Arroyos Las Hermanas, Los Cueros, La Tala, Espinillo, and others. The town of San Pedro is 3 leagues N.W. of Baradero, 13 S.E. of San iSicolas, 17 east of Pergamino, and 1 1 N.E. of Arrecifes. Between this town and Arrecifes an Irish chapel is being built, under the auspices of Rev. Mr. Leahy. Justice of Peace, Don Facundo Quiroga; Curate, Bev. Martin Pader. Municipal revenue, $121,000. Rincon de Ramallo. This is a new partido, chiefly formed out of that part of San Nicolas adjacent to the Arroyo de Ramallo, where Mr. Lewis Boothe, an American settler, has a fine estaucia. Nearly half the large estate of Stegmann has been cut off the partido of Arrecifes to be incorporated with Ramallo, and San Pedro has had to cede in like manner the estaneias of Llavallol, Gomez, Laprida, L. Obligado, Olmos, and Arias. The Irish population here is about 100. The land is well Avatered by the Arrojos Ramallo, Laprida, Las Hermanas, and Seco. Justice of Peace, Don Manuel J. Guerrico, jun. The partido lies between Saa Pedro and San Nicolas, on the banks of the Parana, having an area of 33 square leagues, embracing 70 estaneias. The stock is set down at 54,518 cows, 16,815 horses, 1,500 fine sheep, 450,000 mestiza sheep, and 30,000 Creole sheep. The land under agriculture is estimated at 3,000 acres. Population— 1856 Argentines, 97 Spaniards, 36 English, 32 Italians, 30 French, 3 Germans — total 2,054. There arc 76 houses and 470 ranches in the district, including 17 general stores; but there is as yet no town. The Justice of Peace has 5 Alcaldes, 1 5 Tenientes, and 7 policemen. On the banks of the river which divides this partido from San Nicolas is a fine flour-mill, Avhich although of recent date, does a large business. It is proposed to erect a bridge over this river, as the passes are CO 34 THE RIVERINE PARTIDOS. extremely dangerous even in the dry season. Mr. Boothe has placed the district under great obligations by keeping a canoe at the pass for the convience of travellers, but frequently the canoe has been swept aAvay by the torrents. Land in this district is. now scarce, bat a few years ago sheep puestos could be had at a very moderate rate. San Nicolas. Situate 45 leagues N.W of Buenos Ayres, is an important agricultural district, contiguous with the frontier of Santa Fe. BefiDre the formation of Kamallo into a distinct partido, San Nicolas had an area of .38 square leagues, containing 170 small estancias and 651 chacras : of tiie latter only 120 are rateable. The chief estancias are — Name. S. Leagues. Name. S. Leagues Acevedo, .. H Boldan, .... li Leonardo Pereyra. .. li Fernandez, .... f Inocencio Pico, .. 1 N. Guerrico, .... i Ramos, .... .. 2 Insaurralde, .... .... I Machado, .... .. i Barrera, .... .... f Diego Alvear .. f JoscEojo, .... f M. Guerrico, .... .. f Castillo, .... i There are not many foreign sheep-farmers, other than Tait, Savage, Boxwill, Mrs. Hogan, Barker, Stickney, Pearson, Barry, Neale Brothers : the total Irish population does not exceed 100. The estancia lands are valued at §400,000 per league. The returns of stock are — 54, 105 cows, 11,930 horses, 3,000 fine sheep, 265,000 raestiza do., 69,000 Creole do., and 1,526 pigs. The amount of land under tillage is more than 20,000 acres, and the- principal chacras are- Name. Cuadr as Name. Cuadras. Plfieyro, .... ... 1,200 Carranza, .... 105 Lucio Mansilla, 300 Garreton, .... 54 F. Bobles, 285 Aldao, 90 Lafuente, 192 Quiroga, .... 52 fealinas, 212 Bardon, .... 45 Seg. Garcia, 120 Cardoso bros. 122 Jose Ruiz, .... 124 M. Pezzi, 70 Machado, .... 60 The chacra lands are valued at ^2,250,000 per square league, and, although occupying barely one-tenth, they represent at least half the landed value of the partido. SAN TSICOLAS. 35 The city of San Nicolas is a port of some importance, about 1 i leagues above San Pedro : it is tlie second town in the province of Buenos Ayres, with a population of nearly 8,000 souls; it has 350 rateable houses, 25 dry-goods stores, 105 smaller shops, a church, state schools, a mill (the property of Mr. Armstrong), a graseria (belonging to Mr. Hale), and sometimes a small newspaper published weekly. The best houses are those of— F. Gonsalez, Cerruti, Ponce, Bustamante, Contrera, Gijena,, Iraurralde, R. Gonsalez, Figueroa, Basaldua, Ramirez, Echcgaray, Ibiai, Latorre, Baro, Mallon, Dacombs, Baque, Fernandez, Alcarses, Saliua, Mansilla, Roca, Alcaras, Cabezas, Pombo, A. Martinez. P. Martinez, and Casenave, all which are assessed from § 100,000 upwards. The house property of the town is valued at 18,000,000. There are distinct Justices of Peace for the city of San N'icolas and its rural district. There is also a Criminal tribunal here for the INorthern districts. The Provincial Bank established its first branch in this town, in 1863: the regulations are similar to those of the parent establishment. San iSicolas is styled «de los Arroyos,)) because situate between theRamalJo stream and Arroyo del Medio, which latter is the boundary between Buenos Ayres and Santa Fe. The boundaries of San Mcolas are — the Parana on the N, and E., the Arroyo del Medio on the >'.W. and W., and the Ramallo on the south. After the disastrous battle of Cepeda, in 1859, the infantry of Buenos Ayres made an orderly retreat on this town, and embarked here for the capital. The San Nicolas battalion was accidentally blown up a few days later in the port of Buenos Ayres, on board the Havelock steamer. Notwithstanding the elevated situation of the town it suffered much during the cholera of 1867-68, perhaps owing to the uncleanly condition of the streets. The population of the town and district are set down thus — Argentines 10,056, Italians 608, Spaniards 582, French 499, English 51, Germans 28, Indians 2, others 267 — total 12,581. There are 1, 225 houses, and 796 ranches. The Municipality consists of 12 members; there are 16 Alcaldes, 42 Tenientes, 20 policemen, and 1,056 National Guards. San Nicolas possesses great advanges as a port, steamers and coasting-vessels calling here daily, the landing place being about half a league below the town; nevertheless its progress is not so rapid as that of the inland sheep- farming districts. The state-schools are attended by only 100 boys and 81 girls. The telegraph-line from Buenos Ayres to San Nicolas has been recently completed and will be prolonged to Rosario. The total valuation of landed and house-property both for the town and the rural district amounts to32,000,000. against 17,000,000 in 1862. Contribucion, $128,000. The port returns shew — 1821 vessels with an aggregate of 18,982 tons. 36 THE RIVERINE P/IRTIDOS. There is a club-house fachig the public square, which affords hotel accommodation to travellers. The square is neatly laid out and well kept : at times a band plays in the evenings. At Gataneo's store is the Standard Agency ; strangers vviU obtain whatever local information they may require ; also horses and guides. San Nicolas was so long and so frequently the lieadquarters of the Buenos Ayres army that at one period it boasted of a very respectabletrade, but to-day half the fine houses m the streets are shut up, and the place presents the most fallen aspect. The lands are considered as peculiarly adapted for wheat and maize farms. About 2 miles S. of the town was the encampment of General Mansilla, during the time of Rosas. In former years a saladero was worked to advantage near the port : it was owned by Messrs. Garcia and Botet. A large barraca is kept by Don Segundo Garcia, for receiving hides and wool. Freights to Buenos Ajres, owing to the river navigation, are usually very c'.ieap ; produce should not be shipped without insurance. San Nicolas is about 10 leagues N.E.of the battle-field of Cepeda, 5 E. of Pavon, 1 S. of the Arroyo del Medio, 13 N.E. of Pergamino, and 16 N. of Arrecifes. Justice of Peace, Dr. Diaz Herrera ; Curate, Rev. Bartolomeo Gerruti ; Post-master, D. Leonor Sanchez. THE SORTHEIi:)^ PARTIDOS. 37 CHAP. TV. THE INOBTHERiN PARTIDOS. PILAR TO ARRECIFES. Pilar. Situate ten leagues N.W. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 38 square leagues, and contains 170 estancias, averaging less than a quarter of a league each. The principal are — Name. Anjel Pacheco, F. Poucel, J. J. Pinedo, S. Leagues. ... H ... li ... f F. Pifiero, .... ...• 1 E.Despau, F. Aguilar, .... P. Eruandez; .... Celiera, family, F. Maderna, .... ... 1 ... i ... * ... i ..: i Ponce, family, .... Oliveia, family, Joaquin Lopez, ... . ... 2 ... 1 ... i Name. S. Pablo Lopez, Michael Egan, .... Leagues X b . i Huergo, family. . n Burgos, family, A. Alvarez, F. Arnais, . i Jose Costa, . i J.Cruz, .... . i Carrion, family, . 1 Cufre, family, .... • i Robert Kelly, Mis. jNowla'n, .... The camps of this partido are not esteemed so good as in the neighboring districts of Luxan and Capilla del Seilor, yet there are some tracts of land ■very suitable for sheep. There are but three Irish estancieros in the 38 THE ?iORTHERN PARTIDOS. district, but there is a large number who have rented land, and the total Irish population is fully 300: they are visited by Rev. J. O'Reilly, who resides at Villa Luxan. Great injury to farming interests is caused by the infinitesimal division of estancia lands, as happens in this partido : it is not uncommon to find a «paisano» with an estancia a league in length, but so narrow that he has to build his house sideways on his land ; of course his cattle graze on his neighbors' lands, and the laws afford little or no remedy. Mr. Peter Healy had until recently a very fin'c ((cabafia)) of prize sheep, on the road leading to the Capilla. The stock of the partido comprises 22,649 cows, 11,507 horses, 452 fine sheep, 405,992 mestiza sheep, 16,640 Creole sheep, 2,051 pigS: This is an average of 600 cows, 300 horses, and 1 1,000 sheep to the square league. The total amount of land under chacra cultivation is about 800 cuadras, or 3,500 acres. The estancia lands are valued at $420,000 per league, the chacra lands at $650,000. The total landed valuation, including the village, is $16,000,000, against $10,000,000 in 1862. Contribucion tax, $6i,000. The official returns of population are — Argentines 3783, French 218, Italians 108, English 97, Spaniards 105, others 2 — total, 4,313. There are 103 houses and 602 ranches, including 8 dry-goods stores and 31 other shops. Besides the Justice of Peace and curate, there are a municipality of 6 members, 3 alcaldes, 10 tenientes, 12 policemen, and 350 National Guards. The village of Pilar has 1 ,000 inhabitants, and is a neat little place, situate on the Luxan river, which is crossed by a fine bridge built by Hunt & Schroeder ; this bridge is, however, at times almost inaccessible, owing to the marshes all around. The village stands on a high ground and has a pleasant look. The new church has a turret visible for several leagues in every direction. The streets are twelve in number, but not all built on; many of the houses are very good, the best being those of Echegaray, Melo, Castro, Burgos, Benitez, Bordenaba, Basabe, Franco, Gonsalez, Laballen, Lopez, Luexes, Navarro, Otaran, Ponce, Quinteros, Regueyra, Rodriguez, Ri-vadaveria, Silva, and Yiscayar. The place boasts 3 inns, 2 doctors, 3 schools, and a mill ; coaches ply daily to and from Moreno station on the Western Railway. There are twenty-six chacras in the vicinity of the village, where wheat and maize are cultivated. There is one square league of municipal or public lands, betw een the Arroyo Escobar and the Luxan river. Although these rivers are of permanent water, in dry seasons a drought is often felt where the lands are .high and dusty. It is difficult to procure land in this partido. The boundaries are— on the north the Parang and Capilla del Seilor, on the west Luxan, on the south 3Ioreno, CAP ILL A DEL SE^OR. 39 and on the east San Fernando and Las Conchas, The state school of Pilar is attended by 70 boys and 68 girls. Municipal revenue, 3^30,000. Justice of Peace, Don Alejandro Diaz Franco; Curate, Rev, S. Guridi; Postmaster, Sor. Ghigliazza, Pilar is four leagues N.E, of Luxan, 5 N, of Moreno, 6 W, of Las /Conchas, and 9 E, of San Andres de Giles, Cap ilia del Senor. Situate 14 leagues N,W. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 18 square leagues, and contains 43 estancias and 49 chacras: of the former the ^principal are — Name. S. Leagues. Name. S. Leagues Costa, .... .... 2i Sosa, family, .... .. 2i Mrs.Delamore, .... 2 P. Pugh's heirs, •• i John Fox, .... i Diaz, family, .... .. 1 James Scally, I Morales, .... .. 1 James Gay nor, .... H Castro, family, ... . •• h John O'Brien, .... .... i- 3Irs,Cullen (T.Fallon), . ... i Edward Lennon, .... i Harrington, .... •• i Managua, .... i P. Bustos, 1 . . . 4 Mrs. Torniey, .... i J. Castro, 1 . . . 4 Borbon, .... .... f Melo, family, .. h Ben. Lynch, .... .... i This partido is quite an Irish settlement, our countrymen owning half the landed property and most of the sheep ; the total number of Irish exceeds 1,000. There are few districts in which they have be^n more successful than here, and the lands are well adapted for sheep-farming. The Culligan estancia at Monte INadal, is not included in the above list ; it is also a a fine property. The partido is watered by the Caiiada de la Cruz and its -affluents, the Arroyos Romero and Monsalvo. The returns of stock are, 18,146 cows, 13,209 horses, l,12i fine sheep, 679,344 mestiza do,, 6,800 Creole do., 2,138 pigs. This is an average of 800 horses, 1,100 cows, and 40,000 sheep to the square league. The amount of chacra land under cultivation is very large : there are no exact returns, but we may estimate the area at more than a square league, the principal chacras being those of Avalos, Aguilar, Alvarez, Beliera, Burguefio, Barrios, Basabe, Casco, Diaz, Fragosa, James Fox, Gutierrez, Harrington, Martinez, Ortega, Pacheco, Ponce, Roldan,, Romero, Sosa, 40 THE NORTHERN PARTIDOS. Santellan, Salaberry, Tapia, Toledo, Tavares, and Urseley. The land for estancias or chacras h uniformly valued at $500,000 per square league. The total valuationis 15,000,000, against 12,000,000 in 1862. Contribucioii tax §60,000. This partido is officially called Exaltacicn de la Cruz, but better knoMn by the name of «the Capillar » the boundaries are — IN. Zarate, W. the rivers of Areco and Giles, S. Luxan, and E. Pilar. Tliere is a bridge over the Areco river at Pasode Sosa, near Mrs. Delamore's estancia. Many of the Irish estancias are comfortable, well-arranged establishments, and the quality of sheep is very fine. Lands cannot be obtained here' at any price, and the general character of the neighbourhood is one of persevering aud prosperous industry. The lands belonging to Irishmen exceed 7 square leagues, or 45,000 acres in extent, and represent $3,500,000 at the Government valuation. Add to this 500,000 sheep, and "we shall have some idea of the success of our hard-working countrymen ; all the above-named ^vealthy estancieros arrived in this country without a shilling, from 10 to 20 years ago. The village of the Capilla has 1,152 inhabitants, Avith state-schools, church, juzgado, several good shops, brick-kilns, an English doctor, Irish curate, apothecary's shop, and 52 rated houses ; of these latter the best are those of — Lamarque, Larrosa, Mrs.Tormey, JuanSorano, Padin, Perez, Ordo, Molinares,Insua, Ibarra, Iriza, Furco, Barrios, and Arias. A house has been purchased by the Irish farmers for the residence of their curate. The new church has been built in great measure by the liberality of the Irish sheep-farmers; the works were solemnly inaugurated in 1866 by Archbishop Escalada and Governor Saavedra. The laie Mr. Tormey had the intention of building a chapel on his own estancia for the immediate neighbors, but could not obtain the necessary ecclesiastical permission: Darby Tormey was a fair type of the prosperous Irishman in these countries, and acquired a large fortune in sheep and lands, besides valuable house- property, but was cut off by cholera in the prime of life. The Capilla is built on the edge of the Canada de la Cruz, about 5 leagues from the river Parani. The official returns of tiie population for the partido are — Argentines 3,536, English 395, French 125, Spaniards 68, Italians 61, Germans 9, Indians 1, others 32; total 4,227. There are 142 houses and 667 ranchos, including 8 dry-goods stores, and 20 other shops. The Irish clergyman is Rev. AVm. Grenn on, whose mission also takes in the partido of Zarate. Dr. Priestly has an extensive practise in tliis and the neighboring districts. The neighbors of the Capilla have the use of a Provincial branch bank at Baradero. There are 6 Municipal members, 3 Alcaldes, 15 Tenientes, and 12 policemen. The state-school is attended SAN ANDRES DE GILES. .4t by 57 boys and 60 girls. Justice of Peace, D. Jose Sosa ; Curate, F. Antonio Romero ; Post-master, D. Manuel Montalvo ; Standard agent, D. Juan Sorano. The Gapilla del Sefior is 4 leagues South of Zarate, 7 E. of San Antonio, 7 N.E. of Giles, 5^ >'. of Luxan, 4* N.W. of Pilar, and 10 W. of Las Conchas. San Andres de Giles. Situate twenty leagues N.N.W. of Buenos Ayres, wjjs formerly supposed to have an area of forty square leagues, but actually contains only eighteen and three-quarters, which extent is almost entirely under estancias, there being only twenty-two small chacras. The chief estancias are — Name. D. Tormey's heirs. S. Leagues. ... H Name. S. D. Flores, LtagTifs F. Monsalvo, ... U F. Casco, .... JL B. Bustos, .... 1 F. Maldonado, . i Dofia Pividal, .... Doila Monsalvo, ... f J. M. Echevarria, J. M.Casado, t Doila Saravi, .... ... 4 Dona Lamadrid, • . i H. Biestra, Charles Butterfield, ... i ... i- Francis Duberty, Pedro Salas, .... Rodriguez, family, ... 2 Patrick \Vheeler, . i There are in all seventy-fiYe estancias, averaging a quarter of a league each, and including only three of foreigners. Nevertheless, the foreign residents number at least 400. The land is rich and well stocked, watered by the Giles river and Arroyo del Suero, and valued at $500,000 per square league. Cattle have been entirely replaced by sheep, even on the native estancias ; but in many places the land is exhausted from over-stocking. " Rents are, of course, very high, and this district will not at all suit beginners. The returns of stock are — 13,306 cows, 8,414 horses, 325,421 mestiza sheep^ 15,900 Creole sheep, and 1,550 pigs. This is an average of 600 cows, 400 horses, and 17,000 sheep to the square league. The landed valuation is $11,000,000, against $8,000,000 in 1862. Contribucion tax, $44,000. The boundaries of Giles are — nortli San Antonio de Areco, west Carmen de Areco, south Mercedes, and east Capilla de Seuor. On the road from Giles to Mercedes the traveller will remark the estancia of Mr. Butterfield, an Englishman long resident in this countrv. Between Giles and San Antonio • 42 THE KORTHERN PARTIDOS. he will pass the establishments of the Wheeler and Morgan families, the second being, however, in the partido of San Antonio. San Andres de Giles is a poor little hamlet with 950 inhabitants, almost destitute of trade or agriculture. It has no resident proprietors of any wealth, and many of the streets are grass-grown. The church is new, and there is a state school, attended by 38 boys and 55 girls ; a few brick houses, interspersed Avith numerous miserable ranches, three or four good shops, and a couple of inns, make up the village. There is a resident doctor, and the best business houses are — Picheto's inn, Pelaez's shop, and that of Sefior Cuculla. The Municipality will give building lots free. There is no club, but numbers of pulperias and billiard tables. There are eighty-six rated houses, including those of Dofia Saravi, Bustos, Monsalvo, Eiestra, Arevalo, Lezcano, Quevedo, Tarcetti, Flores,M. Rodriguez, Lopez, Rivarola, Larrosa, Pividal, Acquarone, Pascual Rodriguez, Acufia, Navarro, Silva, Yeral, Cutilla, Andrade, Merlo, Gasado, and Ordones. There are some plantations about the village, mostly of fruit trees, but there are feAV or no chacras for raising wheat, although a large proportion of the town folk is composed of Italians or Basques. The river of Giles runs just below the town, and a bridge is about to be built over it. • The official returns for the partido are — Argentines 1822, English 207, Italians 121, Spaniards 53, French 46, Germans 2 — total 2,251 inhabitants. There are 86 houses and 431 ranches, including 4 shops and 87 minor stores and pulperias. The partido has 6 alcaldes, 17 tenientes, 12 policemen, and 280 National Guards. Justice of Peace, Don Juan Silva; Curate, Rev. F. Tiscornia ; Postmaster, Don Juan Silva : Standard agent, Don Fernando Pelaez. Giles is 4 leagues N. of Mercedes, 6JE. of Carmen de Areco, 4^ S. of San Antonio, and 9 W. of Pilar. San Antonio de Areco. Situate 21 leagues NW. of Buenos Ayres, is bounded on the N. by Baradero, on the W. by Carmen de Areco, on tlie S. by Giles, and on the E. by Capilla del Sefior. It has an area of 26 square leagues, comprising 64 estancias. There are also two lots of Government lands rented out, 1 square league to Dr. Terry, and ^ a league to Sefior Casco. In this partido foreign sheep- farmers are very numerous, holding one-fourth the land and more than half the sheep. The Irish population may be set down at 700. The estancias of SAIV A?iTONIO DE ARECO. 43 San Antonio are generally small, averaging less than half a square league. The lands are very good, but overstocked, and suffer severely in times of drought; nevertheless a drought is of rare occurrence, and the River of Areco, with its affluents, the Arroyos Lavallen and Chafiaritos, as also the Canada Honda, afford permanent water. Some of the Irishmen above mentioned are very wealthy ; the houses of 3Iorgan, Mooney, and Donohoe are comfortable and surrounded by fine peach-mounts. Mr. Chapeaurouge has a very handsome estancia house near the Giles river ; this gentleman is a native of Switzerland and a very enterprising man; he is at present experimenting on the production of Extractura Carnis, similar to tliat of Liebig. Most of the native es'.ancieros are very poor, except Sefior Guerrico, whose fine estancia borders the village eastward. The Justice of Peace reports that there are several estancias a league and a-half long by only a few dozen yards wide. Cattle have almost everywhere made way for sheep. The returns are 40,192 cows, 9,884 horses, 5,730 fine sheep, 411,984 mestiza do., 14,620 Creole do., and 980 pigs: being an average of 1,500 cows, 400 horses, and 20,000 sheep per square league. Land is valued at $360,000 per league. Total valuation 12,000,000, against 8,000,000 in 1862. Contribucion tax $i8,000. The returns of population are — 1,749 Argentines, 255 English, 182 French, 127 Spaniards, 43 Italians, 13 Germans, others 25; total 2,394. There ai'e 141 houses and 257 ranchos, including 8 shops and 15 small stores and pulperias. The following are the principal estancias : — Name. S. Leagues. Name. S . Leagues. Guerrico, .... .... 2i H. Gutierrez, . 1 Morgan, .... .... H Chapeaurouge, .. I Lanusse & Co., .... li Alegre, . f Almagro, .... If P. Figuerroa, ... • i Michael Duggan, .... If Patrick Hogan, • i Casco, .... H Alfcnsiu, .... . i Lima, .... H Alen, . i N. O'Donnell, .... .... i N. Gutierrez, . -i J. Duggan, .... i G. Sosa, • 1 Mooney, 3. .... ^ 0. Molina, .... ■ i Olivera, .... .... 1 Donohue, • i Jose Martinez, .... i Peter Kenny, ' i The village of San Antonio de Areco is an old-fashioned place, founded in 1759 by an estanciero named Areco, whose house stood on the site of the present church, and who gave the necessary land for the village. Until recently there lived an old negro, the bell-ringer of the church, who 4i THE NORTHERN PARTIDOS. remembered the first settlement of the place ; it was then on the Indian frontier. The village has a pleasant aspect northwards over the river of Areco : the streets and plaza are very irregular, but some of the shops are well-furnished, the best being those of 'juau F. Font, Carlos Martinez, Lima, Hurtado, Picheto, Gasco, Jose Martinez, Gonsalez, &c. The old church was in danger of falling and was pulled down, to make room for a new one ; the first stone of the latter was laid on January 1st, 1869. A new state-school has been recently built, which is attended by 6i boys and 44 girlsy There are two good «fondas,)) or inns. There are two blacksmith's shops, that of Don Santiago, in the plaza, being the better one. In some of the drapers' shops English is spoken, most of the customers being Irish farmers. A fine one-arch bridge spans the river of Areco : it cost about ^200,000, mostly subscribed by the sheepfarmers, and a toll is levied of $5 for a cart and gJ^- for a horseman. The trade of Areco is very limited. There is a French tailor in the plaza'. An English doctor is much wanted, also an English school-master, for the large foreign population of the surrounding country. Tlie resident Irish clergyman is Rev. Felix O'Callaghan, who also attends the Baradero district. San Antonio is hardly progressing, although a noAV house is built now and then ; the streets are tery neglected, although the municipal revenue exceeds $100,000. The population of t lie village is 1,200. The partido has 5 alcaldes, 10 tenientes, 12 policemen, and 300 National Guards. Justice of Peace, Don Carlos Martinez ; Curate, Padre Rossi ; Postmaster, Don Manuel Gonsalez ; Standard agent, Don Juan Francisco Font. San Antonio is 8 leagues AV.S.W. of Zarate, ^ S. of Baradero, 12E.S.E. of Arrecifes, 13 E. of Salto, and 7 E.IN.E. of Carmen de Areco. Carmen de Areco. More generally called the Fortin de Areco, is situate twenty-seven leagues AV.JX.W. of Buenos Ayres, Avith an area of fifty square leagues : it is bounded on the north by Arrecifes, on the west by Salto, on the south by the new partido of Suipacha, and on the east by Giles. It comprises twenty- seven estancias, averaging nearly two leagues each. This partido was, until a few years ago, shunned on account of its proximity to the Indians ; it has now become one of the most thickly populated in the province, and is remarkable for its many lirst-class foreign estancias. The aggregate of lands held by foreigners amounts to twenty square leagues, and the Irishmen of the district are all Avealthy and CARMEN DE ARECO. 45 prosperous. Oa all sides the traveller meets fine flocks and snug farm houses; most of the land is well watered and suitable for sheep. About a league north of the town of the Fortin Ave meet the American estancia of Messrs Hale and Spring, one of the finest in the north; it is called Estancia Tatay, from a lagoon of the same name, and the lands are watered by the river of Areco and Arroyo Tatay ; the house is built in English style, two stories, witli every comfort of home life, and surrounded by commodious farm-yards, sheds, a well-planted quinta, and a large grain farm ; the establishment gives employment to a great number of hands, mostly English and Americans, and the proprietors have been the first to introduce the newest improvements of American model farming into this part of the country ; the estancia is largely stocked, and covers 25,000 acres. The Dowling estancia is even larger, and was bought a few years ago for the trifling sum of i!800, whereas the land is now worth twenty times that figure : the late Mr. Dowling was a saddler in Buenos Ayres, and his sons have inherited a fine property : the estancia house is about four leagues S.W. of the village, close to a lagoon called Los Ranchos, which has also a river of the same name ; the lands are in five divisions, called San Miguel, San Luis, Santa Lucia, Santa Rosa, and San Jose, and there is a second lagoon on the estancia, which goes by the name of Laguna de Quevcdo: the Arroyo de Ranclios cuts the estancia into two almost equal portions. No less notable is the estate of Mr. John Duffy, about two leagues west of the tov^'ri, and the same size as the Hale estancia : Mr. Duffy, during a residence of many years, has steadily toiled upwards to the summit of a siieepfarmer's ambition ; not long ago he was a poor puestero in a mud rancho, with a few hundred sheep ; to-day he is master of a patriarchal fortune in ilocks and herds, and a ride around his estancia would be nearly thirty English miles : the lands adjoin those of the Dowling property, and arc situate between the Ranchos and La Guardia arroyos. The estancia next in size is that of Don Patricio Lynch, Avho has also large estates in Baradero, as we have already seen. Mr. Archibald Craig is aji enterprising and popular Scotcli farmer, who has a good estancia about two leagues south of the town, near the Guardia arroyo, and between the estancias of Piran and Lczama: Mr. Craig has done many public services to the neigh- borhood. The estancias of Murray, Mullen, and Kenny are adjacent to the river of Areco, and bounded on the N.E. by Hale's estancia, each nearly a square league. Mr. E. Wallace has a fine property north of the Tatay : it was formerly a portion of the Zapida estancia in Arrecifes. The Piran property is the largest in the district, lying east of the Fortin, and watered by the Arroyos Romero, Gomez, and La Guardia, and the river of Areco. The 46 THE NORTHERN PARTIDOS. Stock returns are -27,200 cow, 11,650 horses, 1,000 fine sheep, 600,300 mestiza sheep, 16,820 creole sheep, and 395 pigs ; being an average of 500 cows, 200 horses, and 12,000 sheep to the square league. The Irish population is over 1,000, and they have a resident clergyman, Rev. M. Largo Leahy, whose mission also includes Salto, Kojas, aud 25 de Mayo. The official returns of population are — Argentines 3,220, English 400, Spaniards 139, French 133, Italians 100, others 145— total 4,187. There are chacras and grain farms to the extent oi' about a league square. There arc 4 alcaldes, 12 tenientes, 12 policemen, and 427 ?sational Guards. The land is valued at $350,000 per league, but the establishments of Hale, Duffy, Dowling, &c., are estimated at $500,000 per league. Total valuation $22,000,000, against $12,000,000 in 1862. Coutribucion tax, $88,000., The following are the principal estancias : — Name. Piran, S. B. Hale, John Duffy, 8 Letigues. .... 5 .... 4 .... 4 Name. Michael Murray, Mrs. Kenny, J. MuUer, S. Leagues. 1 .... I .... 1 Melo, .... 4 J. O'Connell, .... ... f Eocha, Dowling Bros., .... 3i .... 4f N. Martinez, .... F. Romero, ... f P. Lynch, .... 2i Dofia P. Romero, ... 1 J. Stragannon, .... .... n J . Medina, ... i Lezama, .... Archibald Craig, .... If — I P. Rodriguez, L. Daguerry, ... i ... li Perisena, 1 E.Wallace, ..-. 2i Fortin de Areco is a town of 2,000 inhabitants, with a church, stat-^- school, 20 shops and 60 good houses. The best shops are those of Messrs. Moore and Ramos, Antonio Gousalez, &c., and the finest houses are those of Arganiras, Manila, Ayerdi, Gonsalez, and Vasquez, valued over $100,000 each. A resident English doctor is much wanted. The Rev. Largo Leahy has been Irish pastor for several years, and is zealous for the improvement of his countrymen : he has established, four lending libraries in his mission, viz. at the Fortin, Salto, Rojas, and Chacabuco. The library of the Fortin was founded in 1861, aud has 120 members: it receives by every English packet eighteen home newspapers, and is regularly supplied with books of interest for general readers. Father Leahy is also patron of St. Brendan's Literary Society, which gives recitations, lectures, and debates on allernatc Sundays. The town also expects shortly to possess a respectable Seminary for training children of Irish parents to commercial pursuits : a suitable SaLTO. 47 building is in course of erection for this purpose. The Foreign Racing Club of Carmen de Areco has meetings at certain seasons. The Irish neighbors of the Fortin are among the most prosperous and liberal of their couutrymen. The town is iiregularly built and badly situated, the approaches from the south being sometimes impassable owing to wide tracts of marshy laud near the Arroyo de la Giiardia. The church and state- schools are new: the latter are attended by 88 boys and 94 girls. Municipal income $1 20,000. The Provincial branch bank of Salto answers for this district also. Justice of Peace, Don Melchor Ibarzabal ; Curate, Rev. JuanPietranove ; Post-master, Don Jose San 3Iartin ; Standard agent,. Don Manuel Ramos ; Municipality, si\ members. The Fortin is 6J leagues W. of Giles, 9 N.W. of Mercedes, 1 1 N. of Chivilcoy, 16 N.E. of the Rio Salado, 7 E.S.E of Salto, 8 S.E. of Arrecifes^ and 13 S.AV. of Baradero. Salto. Situate 34 leagues W]N^\ of Buenos Ay res, is bounded on the X. by Arrecifes, on the W. by Rojas, on the S. by Chacabuco, and on the E. by- Carmen de Areco. It has an area of 84 square leagues, of Avhich almost one-half are public lands. There are 34 estancias, averaging 1^ leagues each ; the princ Dorrego, ipal are — S. League. .... 13 Xame. B. Gomez, S. League u Pacheco, .... 6i M. Blanco, I Lanatc, .... 4 J. Fuentes, H James Bell, .... 2 Michael 3Iurra; .... 1 Isaac Blanco, Ayrala, John Riddle, . . . . 2 .... 2i 1 John Hyland, Patrick Murph} Wm. 3Iurp!iy, 3. . . . . .... ^ s , .... ^ h D. Berrutti, 1 E. Grigera, I B. .Sierra, I C. Torres, i The progress of this partido is remarkable ; it is fast becoming one of the most important in the north. Foreign settlers are gaining ground, the pastures are excellent for sheep, and camps hilherto vacant are being rapidly covered. There are six English estancias, but the number of our countrymen altogether occupied in sheep is very considerable. The Irish population is estimated at 500. The Dorrego estancia^ about three leagues 48 THE JSORTIILRN PARTIDOS. W. of the town, is a great tract of country, watered by the Rojas river, and its affluents, the xVrroyos Saladas and Yisnaga : it extends almost as far as Rojas, and comprises four establishments, the Bailadito, Carmen, Saladas, and Triunfo. The Pacheco estancia extends southward from the town towards Canada del Huncal and Laguna de Artigas ; eastward is the line property of David Lanata, close to which is Mr. Murphy's estancia of the Huncal. Those of Messrs. Bell and Riddle lie between the town of Salto and Mr. Hale's estancia of the Tatay. Michael Murray, Hyland, Blanco, and Berruti are situate on the north bank of the Salto river, Ayrala is south of the river, and Fuentes on the Arroyo del Huncal. The stock returns are —55,000 cows, 16,110 horses, 1 1,200 fine sheep, 5 15, 000 raestizado., 14,000 Creole do. ; being an average of 600 cows, 200 horses, and 6,000 sheep to the square league. This partido is very suitable for beginners, as land of excellent quality may be easily obtained : most of the Government lands are held «in eniiteusis)) or squatter's right. Agriculture is beginning to be attended to, there being 90 small chacras, and 13 larger ones. Population returns — Argentines 2, '752, English 196, Spaniards 18i, French 206, Italians 89, Germans 8, Indians 2, others 41 ; total 3,478. There are 180 houses and 683 ranchos : 4 Alcaldes, 18 Tenientes, 14 policemen, and 700 National Guards. The land is valued at $450,000 per league. Total valuation 22,000,000, against 11,000,000 in 1862. Contribucion tax, $88,000. The town of Salto has a church, schools, bank, 2 doctors, 6 cloth shops, 3 carpenters, 2 forges, 12 groceries and pulperias, a comfortable inn, and (60 good houses: of the latter the best are, those of Lanata, Blanco, Pisano, Sanz, Gundin, Escobedo, Grigera, Sierra, Berruti, Herrera, Payan, Martelo,Fontana, Palomino, and Delfiade, all valued over $ 100,000. There are mail-coaches both to the Mercedes andChivilcoy railway stations. The town is on the south side of the Salto river. The branch bank serves also for the districts of Fortin, Arrecifes, Chacabiico, Junin, and Rojas, having a capital of $2,000,000m/b. The Irish residents are visited by Father Leahy from the Fortin, who established a circulating library here in 1865, and a Literary Society in connection with same. The library subscribes for nine European newspapers, and counts sixty members: the latter have recently built two club rooms for the institute, where they meet on Sundays, two cuadras distant from the Plaza. The state-schools are attended by sixty-four boys and sixty-five girls. Municipal income, g 1 40,000. Justice of Peace, Don Benito Crisol ; Curate, Rev. Felipe Roccatagliata ; 'Postmaster, Don Leon Aviles ; Standard agent, Don Leonidas F. Blanco. ARRECIFES. Salto is 5 leagues S. of .\rrecifes, Antonio, and 14 N. of Chivilcoj. H N.E. of Juuin, 49 13 W. of San Arrecifes. Situate 33 leagues N.W. of Buenos Ayres, is bounded on the N. by Bamallo and S. Nicolas, on the W. by Pergamino and Rojas, on the S. by Salto, and on the.E. by San Pedro. It has an area of 125 square leagues, comprising 59 estancias, of which the following are the principal Name. Molina bros Crisol bros A. P. Lezica, .... Jose Andrade, Yelez Sars field, Saavedra, family, Yiflas bros Paredes, .... Stegmaun, Ortega, Lopez, family, .... Sillitoe, Boque Perez, .... Cobo, Sierra, family, Casa, .... Sarlo, .... The partido is watered by the Biver Arrecifes, which is formed a little above the town of the same name, by the confluence of the Fontezuelas and Salto rivers : the affluents of the Rio de Arrecifes are, the Arroyos de Burgos, Caflete, Luna, Contador, Lopez, Gomez, Cantero, Invernada, Laguaue, &c. The camps are among the best in the prcvince, and the partido has progressed greatly of late years. Four leagues due north of Arrecifes is the estancia del Tala, the valuable and model sheep-farm of Mr. George Stegmaun, so well-known for its pure Negrettis. The galpon is visible for leagues around and has the appear- ance of a church. Brick puestos of one and two stories occur here and there, and the estancia-house stands on a rising ground, nestling in groves of peach-trees with farm-buildings scattered about ; and large meadows of s. Leagues. , .... 15 1 5 5 . H H 5 3 H 13 4f n 2 H H 5 H H Name. Gimenez, .... Blanco, s. Leagues. . 1^ . 1 V. Perez Millan, . 1 B. Perez Millan, P. Perez Millan, Cafie, Caminos, . i Mosquera, Hornos bros., Buceta bros., 4: E. Carranza, .... . 1 Sra. Juarez, . f Pereyra sisters. . i John Yaczmtch, . li Basigalup, family, Zapiola, Bernal, .... . 4 . 2^ 50 THE JsORTHEllTf PARTIDOS. alfalfa are seen dotting the camp on all sides. The estancia is partly ia Arrecifes and partly in the partido of Raniallo, and comprises altogether 17|^ square leagues of excellent camp, three-fourths of Avhich is rented to Irish and other farmers, and the remainder forms the Gabafia del Tala ,Avith a stock of 2,700 pare JNegrettis and 35,000 fine sheep of cross-breeds. The establishment is just twenty years old, and some remarks about the origin of Mr. Stegmann's renowned Cabanas may be interesting. So far back as 18.35 the late Mr. Stegmann, father of the present owners (George and Claudius) imported from Germany 20 Negrettis of the Imperial Cabana of Austria, and shortly afterwards 60 others : these animals were first placed in the field or garden that now adjoins the British hospital, at the foot of Calle Defeusa. The Poronguitos Cabana (9 leagues beyond Ranchos) Tvas established in 1836; it now comprises some 10 leagues of camp and 60,000 sheep (including about 1300 pure Negrettis). The great attention and good system of the brothers Stegmann in this line of business has obtained for them a high repute, and they were awarded at Paris the 1st bronze medal for Argentine wool. The galpon of the Tala is perhaps the finest structure of the kind in the country ; it measures 75 yards long by 21 wide, and can accommodate 1,500 prize sheep; it has 12 doors in the lower story, and 6 in the upper, giving perfect ventilation, and the turret (47 feet high) affords a view of the various puestos for leagues around ; the edifice cost £2;500 sterling. There is a smaller «galpon,^) that can also accommodate a large number of sheep. Tliere are several fine animals, bred in the country, that give fleeces up to 2itt. The Negrettis are so tame that in walking through the corral you find them to come and lick your hand or pull the end of your poncho. There is also a (cmanada)) of English ponies, comprising a variety of very handsome animals. ?iiothi ng can exceed the comfort and good style of the estancia house, where 3Ir. Stegman resides with his family, and has always a well-stocked cellar to regale his friends or visitors. Mr. Stegmann was educated in Germany, and has held the post of Deputy to the Provincial Legislature. The estancia runs 20 miles from ]N. to S., and is about 7 miles wide, being intersected by the Canada Grande. Dr. Priestly of Capilla del Senor has sheep on a portion of the land. Adjoining the Tala estancia is that of 3Ir. Sillitoe, managed by Don Miguel Murphy : it is aj)parently the oldest in this part of the country, the house and venerable acacia trees bearing the impress of the last century. The camps, like those all around, are remarkably fine; the stock amounts to 30,000 sheep. To the E. of Stegmann's estancia are those of Ortega, Carranza, Sierra, Audrade, and Can6; which are intersected by the Arroyo de Burgos. That of Audrade AHRECIFES. 51 is called Estaiicia del Paraiso, with fine roUiag camps and two comfortable residences. The Sierra family has a second estancia, between the lands of the Perez Millan family and the Arrecifes river. The original Perez Millan, in the last century, was one of the earliest settlers so far north, and his descendants still own the land adjacent to the town of Arrecifes, after crossing the river, till we reach the estancia of Dr. Velez Sarsfield on the Arroyo de Canete, about half-way to Stegmann's. The lands of Roque Perez, Gimenez, and Vinas are situate north of Fontezuelas river, and east of Sillitoe's estate. The extensive properties of Crisol and Lezica form a «rincon» between the Fontezuelas and Salto rivers. Loma Alta, belonging to Sra. Saavedra Riglos, and the rest of the Saavedra estates, are S. of Arrecifes, and are intersected by numerous arroyos. The Ponce Lopez estancia is close to the town, at the bend where the Salto river flows into that of Arrecifes. The .Molina estancias cover a great territory about midway between the rivers of Arreco and Arrecifes. Zapiola^s and Bernal's properties are further west. The land is valued at 350,000 per square league, and the total valuation is 3.32,000,000, against $7,000,000 in 1862. Contribucion tax, $128,000. Tlie stock returns are — 12i,86I cows, 2.3,520 horses, 4,780 fme sheep, 430,000 mestiza sheep, 56,332 creole sheep, being an average of 1,000 cows, 200 horses, and 4,000 sheep per square league. The population returns are as follows:— 3,103 Argentines, 121 English, 111 Spaniards, 81 French, 55 Italians, 17 Germans, 2 Indians, 24 others; total, 3,514. There are 184 houses and 555 ranchos, including 33 pulperias : 3 .\lcaldes, 6 Tenientes, 12 police, and 360 rsational Guards. There are only nine chacras in the partido, with a total of two or three hundred acres under agriculture. The village of Arrecifes, situate on the river of the same name, has a most picturesque appearance and contains about 1 ,000 inhabitants. It is more than a century old, and the fir-st chapel was built by the founder of the town, Sefior Penal va : some remains still exist to perpctua'.e his memory. The present neat and commodious church was erected by Perez Millan, grand-father of the late Justice of Peace. The municipal house, also in the plaza, has a Grecian front, and was built in 1866 by Mr. Michael Carmody, architect. The public school and priest's house are worthy of note. The chief shop in the town is that of Seiior Martinez. Trade is so dull that sometimes all the ready money in the place does not amount to £20 sterling. It is suggested for Government to buy a quantity of land around the town, and give it out in chacras and gardens. There is no resident doctor, but ah apothecary ; no library or clnb, half-a-dozen billiard vm 52 THE NORTHERN PARTIDOS. rooms, three brick kilns, and forty-four rateable houses. The best houses are those of Ponte, Rodriguez, Saavedra, Perez Millan, Astrada, Guerra, and Catan, valued from §80,000 upwards. The new mill, of an enterprising Frenchman, named Pomcsse, is on the bank of the river, close to the town : it is four stories high, cost over £4,000 sterling, and can grind 100 sacks of flour daily, a tunnel of 180 yards long conveying the necessary water from the river : the owner made his money in the village as a baker. There is a fine bridge over the river, built by Hunt & Schroeder. The state schools are attended by 54 boys and 48 girls. Justice of Peace, Don Jorge Steg- mann } Curate, Rev. Jose Clotas ; Postmaster, Don Waldredo Rodriguez ; Standard agent, Seuor Martinez ; Municipality, six members. Municipal revenue, §87,000. Arrecifes is 12 leagues W.N.W. of San Antonio, 8 N.W. of Fortin de Areco, 17 N.E. of Junin, 11 E.N.E. of Rojas, 9 S.E. of Pergaraino, and 16 S. of San Nicolas. THE ISORTH AND WEST FROl^TIERS. 53 CHAP. Y. NORTH AISD WEST FRONTIERS. PERGAMI.NO TO VEHSTE-Y-CISCO DE MAYO. Pergamino. Situate forty-two leagues >\W.of Buenos Ayres, has au area of sixty-eight square leagues, including three of public lands : it comprises no fewer than 192 estancias, of which several belong to Englishmen. The partido is bounded on the north by the Province of Santa Fe, from which it is separated by sundry small «arroyos)) rising near the Lagunas de Cardoso, on the w^est by Indian territory and the partido of Rojas, on the South by Rojas and Salto, and on the east by Arrecifes. It is watered by the river of Pergamino, called Rio Foutezuelas, and numberless «arroyos,» some of which flow into the said river, and others into the Arroyo del Medio. Mr. Hale's estancia is on the extreme frontier, ten leagues inside of Fort India Muerta : it is on the highroad to Cordoba, adjoining the Lagunas de Cardoso and Canada de Paja. Messrs. Pefia and Anchorena have a large estancia N. of the Rio Fontezuelas, about two leagues east of the town of Pergamino. La Larga is the property of Don Jose L. Moreno, who has also acquired the lands of Ruiz ^ Duarte, on the Arroyo Palmitas. The land of the late R. Hastings lies between this and the Gata Quemada. Patrick Fitzsimons adjoins Alberto Ortiz, who has a large lagoon on his estate. The x\.rroyo Cepeda runs through the lauds of Azcuenaga and Benitez, and here was fought the battle October, 1859, in which General Mitre, although beaten, made a masterly retreat. Azcuenaga has two estancias, San Miguel and La Rabona, and near the latter is La Amistad, the 54 THE NORTH AIN'D WEST FROIfTIERS. property of the late Don Pepe Herrera. The estancia of Fermhi 0. Basualdo is at Ceutinela, three leagues south of Pergamino, between the arroyos Montiel and Dulce. Lezama has a large property adjoining tke last-named river. The lands of Roque Perez and Yinas are north of the Eiver Fontezuclas, and a little further we find the estancias of Mooney and Figuerroa, on the head waters of the Arroyo llamallo. The Acevedo estates adjoin those of Benites, running in a straight line nearly five leagues, till reaching the Arroyo del Medio. On the other side of this frontier line there are numerous settlers, viz. : Maciel, Bamirez, Acevedo, Arias, Gonsalez, Sanchez, Bivero, &c. The estancia Goycotea is the furthermost in a W.N.W. direction: it adjoins Mr. Hale's, and is ten leagues inside of Fort Melincue. The chief estancias are — Name. ■'Wf Leagues. Kame. S. Leagues. E. Peila, ..... 6 Alfonso, family. .... i P. J. Acevedo, .... .... 4 Doyle's he4rs, .... .... i J. G. Lezama, .... .... H F. Basualdo, .... 2i Jose L. Moreno, .... 6 L. Guets, .... 21 J. F. Benitez, .... 3 M. Azcuenaga, .... 6 J. Blanco, .... .... 3 Echevarria, .... .... H Arnold & Co., .... 3 F. Figuerroa, .... If Patrick Fitzsimons, 1 P. Arnold, . . . .... H W.Allison, .... .... Dona F. Fuente, .... 1 \V. Fitzsimons, .... Sab. Kier, .... i Villas, .... 2 M. Ulloa, .... .... i Richard Hastings, .... H F. Ojeda, .... i J. G. Boer, .... 3 Cernadas, .... X Jose Herrera, .... 3 A. Diaz, .... .... f A. liOza, .... .... H Olmos, family, .... If F. Giraeaez, .... .... 1 W. Mooney, s. .... 4 Quintana, .... 4 J. Benitez, .... .... 1 S. B. Hale, .... 2 P. Barros, .... f R. Trelles, .... 2 Barrionuevo, .... .... f Rett's heirs, .... .... H R. Baez, .... 1 F. Botet, .... H Zamora, .... 1 A. Basualdo, .... .... 3 J. G. Vasquez, .... f Goycotea, .... .... 3 ; Sarmicnto, family, .... f I). Schoo, .... .... f Rodriguez, family. .... t M. Lopez, .... 1 A. Fernandez, .... .... ^ A. Silva, .... i Alexander Winton, .... i Roque Perez, .... 1 PERGAMINO. 55 This partido has always been so exposed and insecure as to be considered beyond civilization, although the camps are usually verj good. One of the earliest Irish settlers was the late John Doyle, who was murdered, along- with another Irishman, by the fugitive soldiers after the battle of Cepeda, October, 1859. The English population is about 100. But for the dread of Indian invasions this part of the province would make rapid progress : the Provincial Government will doubtless give speedy attention to the matter. At present forts Meliucue and India Muerta are next to useless : in November, 1868, a band of twenty Indians and Gauchos made a raid here, and caused much alarm. The partido is much infested with vagabonds escaping from Buenos Ayres to Santa ¥h, and vice-versa. The first estancia going west from Pergamino is that called La Botija, of very good land, after which we meet that of an old resident, Mr. Jacobs, who has made great improvements. A little further is the estancia Cerillos, belonging to Mr. Michael Fitzsimons, formerly of Villa Luxan. The camps now begin to get coarse, and we come to the estancia Yauguardia, of Mr. AVilliam Allison, then to the Canada de la Paja, where Mr. Winton is settled. Further still is Santa Isabel, belonging to Mr. Hale ; near this are Mr. John Fox's place of Jimcal Grande, and Mr. Michael Duffy's estancia Porvenir. There are few sheep since the last drought, but a couple of jears ago the stock, was very large : a great portion died, and much more was driven off in quest of better camps. Mr. M. Fitzsimons has about 3,000 sheep, Mr. Fox over 10,000. All the farmers have lost, not only the increase, but nearly half their capital of animals. Don Diego Alvear is establishing a large farm N.W., having purchased and measured a tract of ' land on either side of the frontier between Buenos Ayres and Santa Fe, extending from Mr. Hale's estancia oat towards forts Meliucue, Chafiar, and Nutria. The fear of Indians has obliged many settlers to change the pastoral for the agricultural life, and now there are numerous chacras springing up, belonging to natives as well as foreigners. The stock returns are — 135,890 cows, 25,176 horses, 17,000 fine sheep, 658,329 mestiza sheep, 24,500 creole sheep, and 2,597 pigs, being an average of 2,000 cows, 400 horses, and f 0,000 sheep per square league. The valuation of land is $300,000 per league. Total valuation $23,000,000, against $13,000,000 in 1862. Contribucion tax, $92,000. Population returns are— 6,714 Argentines, 146 French, 91 Indians, 57 Italians, 39 Germans, 25 English, 70 others — total 7,042. There are 315 houses, and 1,110 ranches; 10 alcaldes, 26 tenientes, 12 policemen, and 1,265 National Guards. i The town of Pergamino was first used as a halting-place on the post-road to Cordoba ; subsequently it became an important frontier outpost, biit it 56 THE NORTHERN PARTIDOS. suffered severely during the civil wars of 1853-61, and was sacked after the battle of Pavon. About the same time it was besieged by Indians. The church is a very handsome edifice, and there are also state schools, barracks, several shops and brick kilns, and 103 rateable houses : of these last the best are those of Zamora, Nogueras, Begue, Martinez, Olmos, Otero, Gorordo, Alcaraz, Aguirre, Cuets, Cardoso, Celhay, Cobian, Duarte, Lopez, Echague, Fernandez, Grigera, Morales, Reinandi, Rodriguez, Saenz, Ulloa, and Vasquez, all valued over ^50,000. The Irish residents of this partido are visited by Rev. J . Leahy of San Pedro. Mr. R. Jacobs has a barraca here, in connection with the firm of Pacharppe & Co., of San Mcolas and Buenos Ayres, and the stranger can nowhere find better advice or assistance than from this gentleman, who has spent twenty years in the country, and is noted for his enterprise and high character. The state schools are attended by 83 boys and 61 girls. Justice of Peace, Don Mauricio Chavarria ; Curate, Hev. Jose Gimenez ; Postmaster, Don Manuel Vasquez ; Standard agent, Mr. E. Jacobs; Municipality, four members. Municipal revenue, $125,000. Pergamino is 5 leagues south of the Arroyo del Medio, 17 N.E. of Fort Chafiar, 7 north of Rojas, 10 N.N.W. of Salto, and 9 N.W. of Arrecifes. Jiojas. "" Situate 43 leagues W.N.W. of Buenos Ayres has an area of 182 square leagues, most of which is still public land. This partido was a few years ago a desert wild, unknown to sheep-farmers except as an out-of-the-way place often over-run by Indians, and latterly fixed on as a military head-quarters. The partido is bounded on the N. by Pergamino, on the W. by Indian territory, on the S. byJunin and Chacabuco, and on the E. by Salto and Arrecifes. It is watered by the Rojas river and the Arroyo Dulce, and nearly half the partido is beyond the line of frontier, which runs from Fort Mercedes almost due S. to the toAvn of Junin. Fort Mercedes is close to a lagoon in the Canada de Rcjas, about 8 leagues S.E.'of Fort Melincue ; the frontier passes Tapcra de los Cueros, traversing the estaucias of Llavallol and Peralta Ramos ; then crosses Arroyo Pelado, near which is a Fort of the same name ; it next traverses the Canada la Piedro and Arroyo de Nutrias, and finally reaches the public lands and township of Junin. ROJAS. 57 The larjrest estaacias are — Xame. S. Leagues. Name. S. Leagues. Llavallol, .... 10 Saavedra. 2 Canobros., 7 Albarifio, .... 2 Quirnobros., .... G M. Hardoy, t Peralta Ramos, .... 6 Riestra, .... .... 1 M. Casal, .... .... 3 John Huss, .... 2 Sanabria, .... 2 Sarl6, .... 3 John Murphy, .... 1 Cespedes, " .... .... S M. Martinez, .... H Martinez, family. .... 4 Gen. Conesa, .... .... 4 Ulloa. 2 Grigera, .... .... 2 Carrasco bros., .... H Guiraldes, .... 9 James Bollasty, .... \i Sierra, .... 2 Sagasta, .... .... 4 There are several smaller, belonging to English settlers, of which we ive returns of their valuation (but not their extent) as follows — Name. Value. Name. Value. James Bollasty, . $460,000 Thomas Mullady, $25,000 David Anderson, . . . 15,000 Patrick Tobin, 15,000 Tormey^s heirs, . . . . 50,000 Peter Gerraty, 15,000 Patrick Moffatt, . . . 50,000 Henry Geddes, 15,000 Peter Carey, 40,000 Wm. Dowse, .... 15,000 Peter Lawler, 40,000 Peter Murray, 15,000 John Moffatt, 30,000 John Tobin, .... Thomas Geoghegan, 35,000 [ N. M'Neill, .... Thomas Quiunan, . . . 30,000 Pat. Murphy and AV. Boggins, The settlers outside the frontier, having lots of about 3 square leagues, are as follow — Carlos Lonton, Ricardo Lezica, Carlos Alsina, Mariano Irigoyen, Benito Blanco, Edward Madero & Co.,M. Nunez. The first English settlers found their way to Rojas within tlie last ten years, and notwithstanding its proximity to the Indian frontier the partido is coming into much favor Avith sheep-farmers on account of its superior camps : its present English population is about 300. Mr. James Bollasty has a very fine establishment, close to the town, comprising both pasturage and agriculture ; his stock of sheep is over 30,000, and his chacra covers a great extent of ground in which he has so;wn sixty fanegas of wheat; he has also a «graseria)) with two boilers, for rendering down sheep. Mr. Bollasty is a fine specimen of our countrymen, and so much appreciated by his Argentine neighbors that they have elected him to the municipal board^ where his genius for progress and improvement are still equally visible. 58 THE NORTH AKD WEST FRONTIERS. Mr. John Hughes has purchased and stocked an estancia, Avith 20,000 sheep and 1,500 cows; he has also a small «graseria» for boiling down sheep. Mr. Edward Macken has about 8,000 sheep on his land, Mr. Geoghegau about 7 .000, and the lieirs of Mr. Darby Tormey have also a considerable stock. The other Irish farmers are no less prosperous : these brave fellows are doing more to advance the cause of industry and civilization in this remote corner of the Pampas, than all the legislators and Governments of Buenos Ayres since the Independence. There are also some enterprising Scotchmen, and Mr. Geddes, besides sheep-farmmg, occupies himself in buying wool for the Buenos Ayres market and sending in sheep to the <(graserias» at San Nicolas. Some of the native estancias are very important : that of Dorrago, which is partly in this partido and partly in Salto, is stocked with over 100,000 sheep, 60,000 horned cattle, and 4,000 horses The estancia of the late Don Juan Cano has been divided between his sons Marciano and Roberto: the former resides at El Carmen, as the estancia house is called, and has a stock of 45,000 sheep, 48,000 co\ys, and COO mares and tame horses ; the Mayordomo of the horned cattle has a distinct residence called Buena Yista, and that of the mayordomo of sheep is at Encrucijada, about a mile from El Carmen. Mr. Geddes hadcliarge of this establishment for ten years. At the Carmen there is a comfortable residence; also a shed 50 yards by 12, Avith two lofts, one of which is capable of containing 8,000 arrobas of wool, and on the ground floor there are stables for the Negretti flock during the lambing season and the colds of winter. The house is sheltered by 20 acres of plantation, including paradise, peach, black and white acacia, and quince trees. There are 30 acres of Alfalfa or trefoil, 80 acres of wheat, and 18 of Indian corn; the whole fenced in with wire, covering 3G cuadras, and having four avenues leading to the house, corrals and out-oflices : the place is close to the high-road, and the coaches change horses here. Don Roberto Cano has a fine estancia-house at San Jose, and his stock comprises 12,000 cows, 25,000 sheep, and 250 horses: he has about 70 acres under tillage, and is fencing in as much more for the same purpose : the owner is, like all his countrymen, very hospitable to visitors. St. Gertrude's, or the Llavallol estancia, lies between forts Mercedes and Pelade, and is watered by the Canada Rojas and Arroyo Pelade. Santa Cecilia, the property of Messrs. Quirno, lies about 3 leagues W. of Rojas, and adjoining the town is Mr. John Murphy's estancia of La Caldera. That of Peralta Ramos, called San Jacinto, has the lagoons of Cabeza del Tigre and La Estrella, and is near Fort Pelade. The lands of Casal, Cespedes and Sarl6 are adjacent to Fort Mercedes: those of Sanabria, Martinez, Albarifio, Sievra, UUoa, and ' ROJAS. ' 59 Carrasco are on the IN'.E. bank of the Rojas river. General Conesa and Sefior Grigera are on the Arroyo Saladas, near the Pescado lai^oon. Huss, Saavedra and Guiraldes are S. of Rojas, near an arroyo styled Saladillo de la Vuelta. Of the outside settlers the furthermost are — Madero, Irigoyen, aud Alsina, near a lagoon called Chauaritos, which is only 5 leagues froav Tort Melincue. The stock-returns of the partido are — 89,129 cows, 7,686 horses, 2,850 fine sheep, 312,673 mestiza sh^ep, 25,965 Creole sheep, aud 4,973 pigs, being an average of 500 cows, 42 horses, and 2,000 sheep per square league. Land is variously valued at two, three, or four hundred thousand dollars. Total valuation 12,000,000, against 4,000,000 in 1862. Contri- bucion tax $18,000. Population returns — 2,171 Argentines, 112 English, 112 Italians, 132 French, 48 Spaniards, 11 Germans, 29 various; total 2,615. There are 167 houses and 444 ranches: 6 Alcaldes, 13 Tenientes, 12 policemen, and 321 National Guards. The scarcity, of horses in this partido is owing to the frequent incursions of the Indians. Persons looking for land can either purchase or rent same from Government, or buy the right of (cenfjteusis» from previous settlers. The town of Rojas is small but well-built, with a population of 1,700 souls, and is usually garrisoned by a force of 250 cavalry : it has a church, state-schools, several good shops, and 62 rateable houses : of these last the best are those belonging to^— Escobar, Peralta, Gen. Emilio Mitre, Gen. Conesa, Elordi, Fretes, Perez, Ojeda, Quirno, Rospide, Roquez, Rocca, Morgando Medina, Barreiro, Biquiristain, Diaz, Herrera, Frias, all valued from §50,000 upwards. The town has much improved under the municipal boards of the last couple of years, and Mr. Bollasty has actively furthered all improvements. The plaza is neatly laid out, with walks and seats, and a monument is being erected in the centre, at an expense of 325,000, to the patron-saint of the town, San Francisco. The public school and garden have been greatly improved thanks to Mr. Bollasty's liberality, and this gentleman is also a leading supporter of the Irish Library and Institute : the library receives seven European journals fortnightly, and counts forty members; attached to the reading-room is a yard 40 varas square, where the Irishmen put up their horses when they come in to Mass on Sunday mornings ; the club meets for lectures, &c. once a month, patron Rev. Largo M. Leahy. It is impossible to exaggerate the benefit of these Irish libraries: the returns shew that each member reads on an average 194 books in a year, whereas only seven years ago a book was quite a rarity in a shepherd's house, except among wealthy estancieros. The Irish racing society has meetings near Rojas at stated periods. The state-schools are GO THE NORTH AND WEST FRONTIERS. attended by 50 hoys and 41 girls. Justice of Peace, Don Francisco Roca; Curate, Rev. Visconti ; Post-master, Don Isidro Navarro ; Standard agent, Mr. Bollasty. Municipality, six members; Municipal revenue, §146,000. Rojas is 10 leagues S.E. of Fort Mercedes, 9 N.N.E. of Junin. 10 N.N.W of Ciiacabuco,9 W.N.AV. of Salto, and 11 W.S.AV. of Arrecifes. Junin. Situate 45 leagues W.N.W. of Buenos Ayres, is another newly-settled territory, comprising 80 square leagues, a good deal of which is Govern- ment land. The partido is bounded on the north by Rojas, on the west by Indian territory and the new partido of Lincoln, on the south by Bragado, and on the east by Chacabuco. It has an abundance of water, viz.: Lake Chafiar, Mar Chiguita, and the Gomez lagoons, besides the Bio Salado, which traverses a great portion of the country in a S.E. direction. A slight range of hills runs S.S.E. from Fort Chafiar towards Bragado. iMostof the partido is outside the frontier and much exposed to the Indians : there is a fort at Lake Chafiar, five leagues outside of Fort Peladb, and another (Fort Morote) between Mar Chiquita and the Gomez lagoons, two leagues JX.W. of the town of Junin. The estancias of Mr. Atkins, Sefiora Hernandez, and Don E. Pay an are close to the town. Those of Toledo and Lastra are south of the Salado, near the lagoons of El Carpincho and Los Patos. That of Amezaga is a large property near L.-'gunas de Gomez, with an old fort called Canton Potroso, and the lagunas of Nutria and Sierra. Tlie lauds of Burke Lopez, and Sosa adjoin the new partido of Lincoln ; as also those of General E. Mitre, Fajardo, and Ydoyaga, which are south of Mar Chiquita. Mr. Michael Murray's estancia iz washed on one side by the Sauce, and on another by the Arroyo la Vuelta. The Saavedras are north of the Salado, and here there is a tract of public land fifteen square leagues in extent. Pombo and Paseyros are situate on the Arroyo las Nutrias ; and in tlie midst of the Indian country we find Alvear, Nasarre, Argerich, Soler, Caudevilla, Lecuna, Valle, Franqui, Scheiner, Sala, Aramburu, Lezica, and Irigoyen. Fort Chafiar is on Alvear's ground, and this is fifty-six leagues (as tlie bird flies) W.N.W. of the city of Buenos Ayres, being thirteen leagues west of Rojas. Mar Chiquita is one of the largest lakes in the province, being three leagues long by one and a-half in width The Lagunas de Gomez are an irregular series of lakes, seven leagues in length by a mile or so in. breadth : the Rio Salado flows hence in an easterly direction. ju.xm. Gl The chief estancias are those of — G. Pombo, L. Saavedra & Bros., Lucas Castro General E. Mitre, Frank Dow ling, Michael Murray, T. Escobedo, E. Medina, J. M. Olivera. Fajardo, P. Giles, Amezaga, J. Gomez, Rev. B. Paz, F. Yillafaue, W. Yillafaue, A. Lastra, P. Arza, F. Gonsalez, R. Vasquez, J. Moreno, , J. Godoy, M. Flugerto, Rocha Olivera, Alegre Brothers, Linera, Diego Alvear, J. Sierra, J. Aguilera, B, Ferreyra, F. Yilches, M. Jugo, A. Roca, Romero & Co., Balmaseda, Frauqui »fc Co., These lands were first tried for sheepfarming during the drought of 1863, when many Irishmen drove their flocks hither to save them from dying in the over-stocked partidos near Buenos Ayres. Some of them J. J. Perez, J. Garcia, M. Delfrade, B. Martinez, D. Maza, J. Romero, 31. Arza, P. Henestrosa, G. Scheiuer, Aramburu, E. Lezica, B. Irigoyen, Paseyros, George Atkins, Burke, Yalle, Sala, Argerich, Caudevilla, Soler, Seuora Castro, Lopez, IVasarre, Lecuna, 3Iartel, Perez, Pay an, Garay, Cabral, Y'doyaga, Abella, Aparicio, Toledo, Sosa, Gomez, G2 THE ISORTH AND WEST FBOXTIERS. remained here permanently, but the population is still very thin, and our countrymen do not exceed 100 in number. The return^ of stock are — 43,Oi6 cows, 5,785 horses, 58^085 mestiza sheep, and 2,644 pigs, being an average of 500 cows, 70 horses, and 700 sheep per square league. A portion of this partido has been recently taken off, in the formation of the new partido of Lincoln. Agriculture seems to be making much progress : there are eighty-one chacras, covering about 20,000 acres: the following are the principal :— Name. Value. Name. Value. Aparicio, $105,000 Liborio Pio, ... $15,000 Narbondo, 65,000 C. Giles, 15,000 Reparas, 65,000 Suar's heirs. 15,000 Deagustini, 32,000 V. Uviedo, 12,000 Montenegro, 20,000 B. Chaves, 10,000 Paniza, 20,000 E. Suarez, 12,00» Munoz, 20,000 M. Cuello, 12,000 M. Lopez, 18,000 M. Marull, 1 2,000 P. Segui, 15,000 E. Espinosa, 10,000 The total valuation of the partido is $3,000,000, against $500,000 in 1862 Contribucioa tax, $12,000. Population returns— 1,1 11 Argentines, 89 Indians, \\ Spaniards, 35 Italians, 17 French, 9 English, 1 German,, 20 various — total l,32'i. There are 37 houses and 3iO ranchos, including 21 shops ; 4 alcaldes, 8 tenieutes, 12 policemen, and 130 National Guards. The village of Junin is little more than a military post, garrisoned by 26 soldiers of the Line : it has 830 inhabitants, a public school, and 33 rateable houses, of which the best are those of Degiovanni, Abella, Ledesma, Boy & Co , Rodriguez, Barace, Abaca, Zans, Larranaga, Calp & Pferrer, l^rias, Amadeo, andFraga, valued from $20,000 upwards. The place derives its name from a victory over the Spaniards, in Peru, during the War of Independence. The state school is attended by 50 boys and 40 girls. Justice of Peace, Don Estainslao Alegre, who is also postmaster. 3Iunici- pality, four members. Municipal revenue, $157,000. Junin is 13 leagues S.E. of Fort Chafiar, 9 S.S.W. of Bojas, 14 S.W. of Salto, 10 west of Ghacabuco, 18 N.W. of Chivilcoy, and 9 north of Fort. Ituzaingo. Lincoln. Situate about 60 leagues W.N.W. of Buenos Ayres, is entirely outside the frontier. The partido i§ of such recent formation that we have very LINCOLIV. 63 scanty iufdrmatiou about it. On the occasion of President Lincoln's assassination the Legislature of Buenos Ajres resolved to pay a tribute to his memory by giving his name to the next partido that sliould be formed. As yet there is no administrative organization of Justice of Peace, Municipality, &c. ; neither is there any centre of population, although the site of the intended town has been decreed. The partido is bounded on the N. and W. by Indian territory, on tlie S. by the rsuevc de Julio, and on the E. by Bragaeo and Junin, There are no arroyos worth notice, but an abundance of lagoons. In the extreme north is the Villareal estancia, of G square leagues, near the Medanos de Acha and Las Balas. Mr. Wiebeck is settled in the Canada Orqueta, Mr. Thomas Gowland at Laguna del llenegado, and Mr. Chapeaurouge at Laguna de Corridos. Messrs. Bullrich, Cordoba, Frcers, Dunkler and Schroeder extend about 10 leagues S.W. from a place called Siete Jagiieles to the lagoon of Tigre Muerto. Don Manuel Rodriguez has an estancia at the Barcala lagoon, Don Luis Amadco at Inesita, 3Iessrs. Gorchs and Iturrios near the Laguna de los Amigos, and Del Sar, Vivot, Martinez near the Laguna del Guacho. Tlie furthest settler westward is Don Antonio Pereyra, who has 6 square leagues of camp near the Lagunas Bastrillada, Libres^ Carmen, Lagarto and Perillan : this chain of lakes is 65 leagues due W. of Buenos Ayres city, and forms the last landmark of civilization in the far west pampas. In the immediate neighbourhood we also fmd William Martins, F. Saavedra, and J. Gimenez, neat* the Medano de Uyito, The new town of Lincoln will be built about 10 leagues outside Fort Ituzaingo, from which the frontier runs almost due >\ to Junin, passing the Medanos del Hornito and El Moro, and traversing the camps of Castro, Auiezacaand Atkins. Besides the estancias already enumerated in this partido, must be mentioned those of Michael ^lurray. George AV. Atkins, F. Dowling, P. Beristayri, P. Reparas, L. Monsalvo,, Montes-de-Oca, Fajardo, and Gueri. We have no returns of stock or population. Cliacahuco. The partido of Chacabuco contains about 88 square leagues of land, divided into ten cuarteles, with an Alcalde and Tenientes to each. There are 5^ leagues of land at the present time divided into quintas and chacras, which at the close of the Paraguayan war are to be distributed amongst the soldiers who have served in the campaign. 64 THE NORTH AIN'D WEST FROT^TIERS. The town of Chacabuco consists of 18 manzaiias, all built of brick, -with azotea or tile roofs, and 10 quintas, with young, though flourishing montes. Tl>e greater part of the inhabitants are Basques and Italians, but further progress in the town has been much retarded owing to Government not permitting the municipality to dispose -of these lands. As yet the town boasts of no public buildings. The lands of this partido are of a rich deep soil, and have for the last few years been eagerly sought after by Englishmen. About one-half are refined lands well adapted for, aud largely occuj)ied, in sheep-breeding ; a good part is also occupied in cattle, and tillage is carried out to a large extent. The chief native estancias are, the Medano Blanco, belonging to Don Patricio Roche, which comprises four square leagues of land, with fine estancia-house, quintas, immense alfalfares, and galpons for sheep; also a graseria. The number of sheep on these lands amounts to from 45,000 to 50,000, with about 5,000 head of horned cattle. This may be considered the chief estancia in the partido. The estancias of Sres. Pacheco, Yidal, and Alvear also occupy a prominent position. Among the English estancias the chief is that of 3Ir. E. B. Perkins, Estancia la Esperanza, comprising 2^ square leagues of land, a good estancia-house with adjoining oflices together .with fine quintas, alfalfares and potreros for cattle. The land, which is surrounded by 21 finepuestos, is occupied by about 15,000 sheep, and from 3,000 to 4,000 head of horned cattle. The sowing of wheat and maize is largely carried on, as is tillage of all kinds. Several fine young plantations are commencing also to show themselves, which in a few years will be of great value. The other chief estancias are those of Messrs. Duggan, E. Casey, M. Allen, M. Murray, F. Pierson, F. Dowling, J. Drysdale, J. Maclean, Forest, Serna, Castro, Mir6,Vasquez,Crisol, Insiarte, Saubidet, Maldonado, Blanco, James Bell, Gonsalez; Quirno aud Machado. The Estancia de la Creolla, also in this partido, has been lately purchased froiK a native company by J. H. Green, and consists of 5^ leagues of land with estancia-house, oflices, &c. This is the largest English property in the partido, but is as yet unstocked owing to its having changed hands so recently. Agriculture is now carried on in this partido on a much larger scale than in most other parts of the province, mostly by the natives, and the crops promise to be very successful this year ; many large fortunes have been made in this branch during the last few years, and we are surprised that our countrymen do not introduce more capital into this business. The Irish population may be set down at 500. Land averages from §300,000 to $600,000, according to quality. The Government price is $200,000 per league. Average price of sheep from $15 to $20 ; cattle from $50 to $80 ; mares from $45 to $60. CHACABUCO. 65 Chacabuco is distant 36 leagues W. of Buenos Ayres, and, the partido being of recent formation, the returns of property, &c. are not sufficiently minute, for which reason most of the estancias will be included in our reports of the neighbouring districts, from which this partido has been formed. The partido is wateredby the San Patricio, Peludos and Mingorena arrojos, which traverse the estancias of Dowling, Forest and Pearson, before falling into the Salado ; the Arroyo Juncal, which bisects the Pacheco estancia ; and a number of lagoons. The Laguna Artigas is on the Alvear estancia, Las Toscas and El Gato on that of Machado, Medano Blanco and Medano Chato on Mr. Rocha's, Siete Lagunas on Sor. Castro's, and several others are of lesser note. There are 56 estancias, with an average of a league and a half each. The returns of stock are — 102,079 cows, 26,286 horses, 1 ,380 fine sheep, 554,700 mestiza sheep, 1 1 ,600 creole sheep, and 1,750 pigs, being an average of 1,300 cows, 300 horses. an4: 7,000 sheep per square league. The amount of laud under tillage and grain-crops is returned as 14 square leagues, or nearly 90,000 acres. The population counts 5,615 Argentines, 166 English, 83 Italians, 81 French, 51 Spaniards, 44 various; total 6,063. There are 16 houses and 741 ranchos, including 48 shops and stores. Justice of Peace, Don Jose Maria Rodriguez; Post- master, Don Eulalio Sempal. Strangers will find reliable information from Mr. Perkins ; this gentlemancame out with his brothers, and a good capital, from England, a few years ago, and was one of the first settlers in this remote district. The railway from Ghivilcoy to Buenos Ayres now places Chacabuco within a day's journey of town. On the estancia of Mr. Michael Allen, in this partido, an Irish chapel has been built, dedicated to St. Mel. and attached to the same is a Library, which was opened on the 5th of May 1868, with a list of thirty subscribers, who receive regular supplies of books from Dublin and New York, and seven European journals by each mail. It is proposed to start a Debating Society, under the patronage of the Rev. L. M. Leahyj to whom the Irishmen of these parts ai-e so much indebted. The new town of Chacabuco will be situate 10 leagues N.W of Chivilcoy, 6 N.E. of Rio Salado, 10 E. of Ji^nin, lOS.S.E. of Rojas, 7 S.S.W. of Salto, and 11 S.W. of Carmen de Areco. Bragado. Situate 39 leagues west of Buenos Ayres, comprises 100 square leagues, the largest estancias being those of Fraacisco Pla's heirs, 6 square leagues, 66 THE WORTH AND WEST FRONTIERS. and Mariano Biaus, 5^ leagues. The other estancias belong to the follo^ving persons : — Quiroga, Gallo, P. Arza, S. 3Ieabe, S. Unzue, M. Beccar, Lanuz, Lavado, Lucena, Ruiz, P. Castro, Eobbio, Bamirez, Eniilic Castro, 3Ia chain, Olivera, Martinez, Ferreyra, Trejo, Perez, 3Ioutier, A. Smjth, The partido is bounded on the north and east by the Bio Salado, ■which separates it from Chacabuco and Chivilcoy, on the south by 25 de Mayo, and on the west by 9 de Julio. The Biaus estancia is on the southern bank of the Salado, and east of the town of Bragado : it has several lagoons, viz. : Bragado Grande, Casco, Colorada, Los Patos, and Palantelen. The estates of Don Saturnino Unzue also cover a great tract of country in this and the next partido (25 de Mayo). Meabe and Moutier are southward from Bragado, near the lagoons of Olivencia, El Toro, and Las Cafias. The Quiroga estancias are six leagues long by three wide, extending from Fort Angeles along the frontier to Fort Ranch. Further north are the estancias of Bragado Chico, Mataco, and Santa Isabel, belonging respectively to Messrs. Lanuz, Lavado, and Buiz, all washed by the Salado. There are public lands at Medano de la Cruz and Averias. The lands of Lucena, Ramirez, and Emilio Castro are traversed by the frontier line, and on Mr. Castro's estancia is Fort Ituzaingo, ten leagues south of Junin. The lands of Robbio and Pedro Castro are outside the frontier, near Canada de Moron. This partido has made but little progress, owing to the frequent Indian incursions. The lands are, therefore, little sought after by sheepfarmers, who complain also that there are no rivers or arroyos, and that the land is ill adapted for sheep. Nevertheless, an Englishman who has visited this part writes: — «I have great pleasure in stating that I found the lands iii the partidos of 25 de Mayo and Bragado are better than people here generally suppose them to be, the grass being in many places two and even three feet high ; the quality is good, but better suited for cattle than sheep. The ((trevol de olor,)) or natural alfalfa, is most beautiful, covering in some places leagues of land, and if cut at the present moment would jfroduce sufficient alfalfa to supply the tvholc of Buenos Ayres for a year ; where BIL\GADO. 67 sheep have been placed on the land, even for a few months, its quality becomes much better, and I have no hesitation in saying that there are few finer or better lauds for sheep in this province than those of the 25 de Mayo and Bragado. In some parts of the camp there is a large quantity of the wild aloe growing, but this will soon disappear when the land is stocked. A large portio i of the lands in these two partidos is owned by Englishmen, and fine azotea houses, puestos, &c.,are springing up on all sides. Should the Government resolve to reduce the price of these lands to a moderate and fair sum, I have no doubt they would be purchased al? once by the present occupiers of the land. In riding over the land I was much struck with the absence of arroyos, cauadas, or lagnnas of any size, and believe that for many leagues the same peculiarity may be noticed ; the reason of this is, that the soil being a rich sandy vegetable mould, absorbs all the water that falls, little if any running off the land, even in the heaviest rains ; the sub-soil is sand, and in some spots the water is close to the surface, indeed, at one place I visited (the Hinojo) a man simply stooped down to get us a glass of water from his well, the water not being more than three feet below the surface ; in other spots the wells were three to five yards deep.» The English population of this partido does not number 100, but there is every likelihood that it will increase rapidly as soon as the railway be open to Bragado ; the works are being actively pushed forward, and this will also much enhance the value of the laud. The official valuation is set down at §200,000 per square league. Total valuation of the partido §6,000,000, against $.3,000,000 in 1862. Contribucion tax, $24,000. The returns of stock are— 1.35,000 cows, 2i,596 horses, 246,000 mestiza sheep, 1,000 Creole sheep, and 8,000 pigs, being an average of 1,300 cows, 250 horses, and 2,500 sheep per square league. Agriculture has, within a few years, made rapid strides in those far western camps. There are 370 chacras under tillage, covering an area of 60,000 acres. Hitherto the only check to this industry was the expense and difficulty of freight to Buenos Ayres, but now the prolongation of the Western Railway as far as Bragado will give a great impulse to the growing of grain. Moreover, the ludians, who seek only for booty of horned cattle and horses, Avill no longer be felt in these districts, for they always recede at the advance of the ploughshare and the locomotive. The population returns are — 3,604 Argentines, 180 Spaniards, 144 French, 183 Indians, 62 Italians, 6 English, 35 various— total 4,222. Coliqueo's tribe of « friendly Indianso is settled here as a protection to the frontier ; the cacique is a large muscular man, about 50 years of age, not bal looking, and EE2 68 THE NORTH AND WEST FRONTIERS. wears the uniform of a major ia the Argentiue army ; his people are squalid and repulsive, with no other trace of Christianity than that tliey generally cause their children to be baptized. They live in their «tolderias,» groups of wretched huts, which they shift at times for the pasture of their horses. The Government gives them monthly rations of tobacco, yerba, and wild mares ; thc}^ are extremely fond of the flesh of the latter. The village of Bragado, also called Santa Rosa, after the patroness of South America, is picturesquely situated at the foot of a gentle slope, near the lagoon of Saladillo, and not far from those of Bragado Grande and Cassio. Its first importance was as a fort on the Indian frontier, but it is destined to become in a short time a great western settlement in the midst of the Pampas, within 7 hours' journey by rail of the city of Buenos Ayres. It has a church, state schools, 22 good shops, and 65 rateable houses ; of the latter the best are those of Patricio Arza, O. Ramirez, B. Roque, Trejo, Sarrieta, St. Paul, Osuna, J. Milberg, Mifiaque, 3Iansilla, Michad, Lopez, Fernandez, Basarte, and Argain, all valued from 3^0,000 upwards. The partido has 7 1 houses and 994 ranehos ; 5 alcaldes, 20 tenientes, 1 i policemeu, and 950 National Guards. The state schools are attended by 62 boys and 65 girls. Justice of Peace, Don German Yega; Curate, Rev. Luis Leoneti; Postmaster, Don Maximo Fosferes; Municipality, six members. Bragado is 9^ leagues S.W. of Chivilcoy, 4 W. of the Rio Salado, 9 N.W. of 25 de Mayo, 9i N.E. of Nueve de Julio, 5 E. of Fort Ranch, and 14 S.E. of Juiiin. Nueve de Julio. Situate 48 leagues W. of Buenos Ayres, is a new and thinly settled district with an area of about 150 square leagues. Until recently the only inhabitants were a tribe of friendly Indians and a regiment of soldiers to garrison this part of the frontier. The present English population is over 100. The partido is bounded on the JN. by Lincoln and Bragado, on the AV. by Indian territory, on the S. by the same, and on the E. by Veinte-y-Cinco de Mayo. It has no rivers pr arrovos, but is interspersed Avith numerous lagoons. Nearly half the settlers are English, but the camps are so exposed to Indian forays that the partido makes comparatively slow progress. The estancias of Smith and Kavanagh lie between the Socabon and P020 Parapa, N.E. of the new town. Those of Douthat, Dillon, Darbyshire, and Nield, are on the frontier line, between Forts Picazo and Cruz de Guerra, on the route from Yeinte-y-Ciuco d <^ "^layo to Nueve de Julio. The lands of Lynch, IIUEVE DE JULIO. 69 Lewis, Young, Daly, and Wallace, are on the extreme S.W., between Canada Verde and the lagoons of Saladillo and Union. Michael Murray is near Laguua las Piedras, and the furthest western settlers are Veron, Lopez, and Manterola, near the Algarrobas lagoon. Carlisle and Salvarezza are close to Fort Picazo, Messrs. Dunkler, Wampach and Terry are on the N.W., adjoining the partido of Lincoln. The lands of Agrelo Bullrich, Trejo, Lima, and Vedia are near the Ires Lagunas, on which the mew town is being built : this point is 48 leagues W.S.W. of the city of Buenos Ayres. Tlie chief estancieros are the following : — Henry Smith, John Smith, Francis Dowling, James' Gaynor, George Dickson, Walter Stephenson, Thomas Douthat, Charles Darbyshire, Jolm Dillon, John Dick, E. J. Stephenson, W. Batchelor, George Dixon, Foster, Aug. Masoni, Miguel Baschetti, James Kavanagh, C. Martinez, E. Agrelo, J.Luna, Trejo, Shaw, Warapach, Seng, Michael Murray, Cuculla, Ocampos, Carlisle, Frederick ^ield, J. Malbran, M. Delfrade, A. Chamraar, Lima, Buireu, Dunkler, Terry, Veron, Diaz, Ares, Salvarezza, P. D. Lynch, Mrs. Young, John Lewis, Albarracin, Vedia, Bubio, Boniero, Manterola, Maya, Urbero, Fernandez, Patrick Daly, Jolm Wallace, Haedo, Bullrich, Naon, Cazon, Gonsalez, Lopez, Cuenca, Araadeo, Agote, /O THE ISORTH AJfD WEST FRONTIERS. The returns of stock are— 1 10,400 cows, 34,641 horses, 7,500 fine sheep, 43,000 mestiza sheep, 8,300 Creole sheep, and 10,400 pigs, being an average of 700 cows, 200 horses, and 350 sheep per square league. Agriculture is also making good progress in these virgin camps ; there are 135 chacras, with 5,000 acres under tillage. The official returns of population shew a preponderance of tame Indians, viz : — 1,908 Indians, 920 Argentines, 55 Italians, 80 Spaniards, 51 English, 33 French, 3 Germans, 3 various ; total 3,053. There are 46 houses and 734 ranchos, including 23 shops: 4 alcaldes, 7 tenientes, 8 policemen, 194 soldiers of the line, and 422 National Guards. The new tow^n of Nueve de Julio is in course of construction, but as yet there is neither church nor state-school. The partido is called after the Independence day (9th of July 181^5). Justice of Peace, Don 'Estevan Trejo ; Post-master, Edelmiro 3Ioara ; Municipality, six members ; Municipal revenue, $46,000. An Irish farmer Avho recently visited this part of the frontier reports as follows : — «I was anxious to see the Indians and their country, and started from Villa Luxan on the 5th inst. for the Toldos of Coliqueo. The journey took me eight days. I visited Goliqueo's tribe, and found them living much like the Gauchos : the men and women wear clothes, and the men speak Spanish, On the 1 0th I visited the Cacique who shook hands with me warmly and said that I was the first Irishman he had met. He asked me for General 3Iitre and Governor Alsina, and complained bitterly that the Government had not built a church and school for the squaws. There are three pulperias in the «tolderia,» one belonging to Sefior Martinez of Buenos Ajres, who treated me most hospitably. The Indians are mostly engaged in agriculture, and have chacras of maize ; they have also large herds of mares andcoAVS. They seem very long-lived, for I met a woman apparently over 100 years old. I stopped two days with them, and they treated me very kindly ; the Cacique Coliqueo seems a very decent fellow. The lands are very course, nothing but «paja,)) «pasto puna,)) and the hard thistles ; they are only fit for horned cattle, and will take a long time for refining, before being fit for sheep. On my way out I saw several flocks, sound and in good condition ; the usual run for a flock is a couple of leagues every way. The camps abound in deer and partridges. The chief English estancieros are Dowling andGaynor, who are most hospitable to strangers: they have some stock on their lands. A batch of enterprising young Englishmen would do well out here, and could easily get cattle to start -with. Land is to be had on all sides for sale : from Bragado to the frontier the price of land in «enfiteusis» is from §30,000 to g40,000 per league. VEL\Ti:-Y-CINCO DE MAYO. 7 1 Crossing the frontier-line you can get land for nothing, and of a better qnality : there are several estancias as far as 15 leagues beyond the frontier. The Nueve de Julio is a well-built town, with a fine view of the country for about five leagues around : the Justice of Peace is a most hospitable man, and well liked by the settlers.)) Among the Englishmen recently established in this district are Mr. Edward Gillyatof the Estancia Espartillares, and 3Ir. Patrick MacDonnell of Estancia Loncagne. Unzue Hermanos are the largest landed proprietors in the partido. The camps are excellent for cattle, &c., and last season fat sheep were sold at 330m^5. There are «poblaciones)) 10 leagues outside the town of 9 de Julio. The town has improved rapidly, all the houses being azoteas. It has four «fondas,» any amount of Billiards, Church, Juzgado, &c. The land is first-class for growing wheat, maize, &c., and the immense «cafiadones» offer many advantages for the breeding and fattening of pigs ; a branch of industry the most lucrative and least attended to. Gamp that was bought three or four years ago at §40,000 a league is noAV worth from $80,000 to $100,000 (enfiteusis right), clear proof that camp in the Nueve de Julia is a lucrative investment. The Englishmen hold annual steeplechases and races, and «tool their fils)) over some stiff fences, to the surprise of the Gauchos, in a style Avorthy of the old country. The new town will b« situate 12 leagues W. of 25 de Mayo, 9 S.W. of Bragado, and 9 S. of Fort Ituzaingo. Veinte-y-Cinco de Mayo, Situate 35 leagues W.S.W. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 210 square leagues. The partido is bounded on the j\. by the Rio Salado, which separates it from Chivilcoy, on the W. by Bragado and Nueve de Julio, and on the S. and E. by Saladillo. It comprises 136 estancias. This is'a rising partido, much in favor with sheep-farmers, the number of Irish alone being nearly a thousand. A few years ago it was almost looked upon as Indian country. An Englishman, about 8 leagues beyond the village of 25 de Mayo, writes : — «I settled here in 1 864* and had only one neighbor, now I have 30 houses in sight, around me. I have built a comfortable house, planted 1,000 trees, and fenced in a large chacra. in the care of sheep I find mud walls answer best for corrals ; making them four feet high they cost me $9 per yard, and afford great shelter to the 72 THE KORTH AWD WEST FRONTIERS. sheep from the cold winds of winter. » There is plenty of public laud in this partido, and this part of the country is well suited for beginners, being within a day's journey of town, via Mercedes. The land is valued at $200,000 per league. Total valuation 13,000,000, against 5,000,000 in 1862. Contribucion tax, §52,000. The returns of stock are— 289,876 cows. 26,263 horses, 5,599 fine sheep, 922,622 mestiza sheep, 83,200 reole sheep, 12,610 pigs, being an average of 1400 cows, 130 horses, and 5,000 sheep per square league. The following are the principal estancias — Name, S. Leagues. Name. S. Leagues. S. Unzue, .... .... 18 Bua, .... .... .... 2 Fernandez bros., .... 10 Olmos, .... 1 Atucha, 7 Chavarry, .... 1 Blayer, J .... 5 Elliff bros., .... f Peralta, .... .... 5 Cabrera, .... f Sosa, .... 5i Arias, .... .... i Olivera, .... .... 5 Bodriguez, .... i Villarasa, .... .... 5 Carrizo, .... i Yillanueva, .... 5 Gasparron, .... 1 B. Salas, .... 5 Pereda, .... .... 4 Saldariaga, .... 2 Wright bros., .... .... 3i Berraondo, .... .... 2 George Keen, .... n Lugones, .... .... 1 H. Keen, .... .... 2 Haedo, .... 1 B. Perez, .... -21 Davel, .... .... 1 George Dickson, .... li Casavalle, .... i F. Whelan, .... .... 2 Carci, .... .... i Quintana, .... .... li Ferreyra, .... i Zamudio, .... 1 Piilero, .... .... i Leguisamon, .... 2 Farias, .... .... i Cano, 1 Moutero, .... .... 5 Islas, « 1 Morillo, .... .... 4 Bomero, .... .... 1 Galindez, .... .... 3 Barrales, .... 1 Gomez, .... .... 3 Gousalez, .... I Bisso, .... .... 3 Martinez, .... f Ghiraldo, .... 3 Gutierrez, .... f Baldeveinto, .... .... 3 Monsalvo, .... .... 1 A. Lezica, .... .... 4 Saavedra, .... i E.Diaz, .... 4 Cruz Casas, .... .... i Dominguez, .... .... 2 Ybarra, .... .... i Abrego, .... 2 VEmTE-Y-ClNCO DE MAYO. 73 Messrs. Unzue have another extensive property in this partido ; it lies N. of the town of the 25 de Mayo, running four leagues in a straight line from Laguna del Tigre to the borders of the Bians estancia in Bragado : they have also a large estancia near Arroyo Pantanoso, about eight leagues south of the town. The Fernandez estancia is outside the frontier, between 3Ionigotes and Lake Betel, a few leagues S.W. of Cruz de Guerra fort. 3Iessrs. Ghiraldo, Berraondo, Abrego, Attucha and Cano are just inside the fort. Lezica's estancia at Lake Galvan, and that of Diaz at Las Encadenadas, are about four leagues N.W. of the town. Estancia Potrillo, near a Lagoon of the same name, is the property of Don Domingo Olivera, and between this and the town we meet the estancias of Galindez and Saldarriaga. The lands of Villarasa and Blayer lie S.W. of Olivera's, and further out still are those of Plaza Montero andSalas, nearFort Vallimanca, on a lagoon of the same name: this fort is 47 leagues S.W. of Buenos Ayres city, and 12 leagues S.S.E. of the new town Nueve de Julio : the only intermediate fort is Cruz de Guerra. Some of the most valuable estancias of the partido arc those on the S. bank of the Salado, viz. — Peralta, G. Keen, Dickson, H. Keen, Cabrera, Villanueva, Ybarra, and Gasparron. The stranger will find excellent shooting and the kindest hospitality at Mr. Keen's estaucia of Pedernales. Mr. Keen is an old resident, and was the first to settle so far out. Up to 1810 the Salado was regarded as the Indian frontier, but in that year the first native estancieros crossed the river : at that time the total population of the province of Buenos Ayres (not including the city) was only 40,000. There were, however, few who ventured beyond the Salado till the famous Colonel Ranch (a German) made his great 'campaign against the Indians in 1822, Avhen the savages were driven far into the desert. The camps of Messrs. Mathew and Anthony Elliff, and Wright bros., are further S., between Medano de los Huesos andLagunas de Gomez. Pereda's and Risso's lands are near the Cerrilla de la Mongoli, and Morillo and Gomez are a few leagues N.E. of the town, near Laguna del Milagro and sundry smaller lakes. Agriculture has attained a great development, there being no fewer than 512 chacras, covering an area of 180,000 acres of tilled land: this is an average of 350 acres, or 80 cuadras to each chacra. The population returns are— Argentines 5,090, Spaniards 2333, English 600, Italians 307, Indians 386, French 72, Germans 5, various 28: total 8,821. There are 68 houses and. 1,030 ranchos, including over 100 shops and pulperias : 5 alcaldes, 20 tenientes, 14 policemen, and 1700 National Guards. As an instance of the rapid growth of this district, it is to be 74, THE NORTH AISD WEST FRONTIERS. noted that in 1861 there were only 60,000 sheep, and now there are over a million. The Irish of this partido are visited by Father Leahy, from the Fortin de Areco.. The village of 25 de Mayo was, until very recently, only a military outpost, but now it has 1,500 inhabitants, a church, schools, several shops, and 68 rateable houses : of these last the best are those of — Abrego, Rivero, Senobia, Lalanne bros., Sanchez & Co., Bibolini, Fernandez, Pedrasa, Islas, Ibarra, Basabe, Magdaleno, and Bcrnedo, all valued at ^50,000 and upwards. The state-schools are attended by 40 boys and 76 girls. Justice of Peace. Don Yictorino Abrego; Curate, Rev. Manuel R. Soto; Post-master, Don Pedro A. Duval; Municipality, six members; Municipal revenue, §360,000. The town of 25 de Mayo is 12 leagues E. of Nueve de Julio, 8 N.E. of Fort Cruz de Guerra, 8| N.W. of Saladillo, 8 S.W. of the Rio Salado, and 9 S.E. of Bragado. fiidH THE WESTERN PARTIDOS. ' 75 CHAP. YI. THE WESTERN PARTIDOS. FLORES TO CHIVILCOY. San Jose de Flores. Situate nearly two leagues west of Buenos Ayres, is a suburb of the city and lias been fully described in Section B, pp. 88-90. The partido has only six square leagues of land, entirely laid out in gardens, meadows, country houses, &c. Its farming stock does not count 10,000 head of sheep and cattle. The partido is bounded on the north by Belgraiio and San Martin, on the west by Moron and 3Iatanzas, on the south by the Biver Matanza, and on the east by the city of Buenos Ayres. There are no rivers or lagoons, but the soil is very rich and highly cultivated. The average value of laud is assessed at 3'i,000 per cuadra, equal to $6,400,000 per square league. Total valuation $30,000,000, against $17,000,000 in 1862. Contribucion tax, $120,000. The Flores Road is being at present paved, and there is also a project for a tramway to town. The village boasts a handsome church and state school, the latter attended by 91 boys and 126 girls: there are some second-rate shops, and about 1,500 inhabitants. The population of the partido comprises — 2,841 Argentines, 1,6U Italians, 355 French, 330 Spaniards, 169 English, 40 Germans, 2 Indians, 87 various — total 5,435. THE WESTE115 PARTIDOS. The principal quintas, with their valuations, are — Name. Value. Name. Value. Jose Bergalo, . . . . g560,000 M. Silva, 240,000 V. Zavala, 400,000 H. J. Ropes, 200,000 P. Alais, 300,000 Seuora Visillac, 200,000 Catalina N., 200,000 Denolle, 190,000 V. Martinez, 200,000 T. Fresco, 120,000 S. Negrotto, . . . 220,000 H. Gowland, 136,000 R.Herber, 240,000 R. Gaete, 136,000 J. Coronel, 200,000 F. Gimenez, 120,000 Seuora Dorrego, 240,000 Villanueva, •100,000 L. Martinez, 320,000 V. Silvera, 160,000 D. Olivera, 268,000 G. Rodriguez, 160,000 A. Pereyra, 400,000 J. Plana, 184,000 M. Farias. 256,000 M. Pazos, 1 20,000 Charles Diehl, . . . 128,000 Mendi, 120,000 David Methven, 120,000 Larroude, 100,000 M. Casares, 120,000 Galindez, 100,000 A. Conde, 120,000 A. Juarez, 100,000 Unzue, 120,000 P. Garaas, 100,000 L. Segurola, .... 200,000 M. Giraldez, 120,000 J. Rivadavia, .... 120,000 Stegraann, 160,000 M. Quirno, .... 160,000 Beulenez, 280,000 Seuora Portela, 10i,000 M. Costa, • 200,000 Machin, .... 120,000 M. Flores, 180,000 Labrue, .... 120,000 A. Lezica, 180,000 F. M. Cruz, .... 100,000 Del Pont, 160,000 Lanuz, .... 144,000 Lacasa, 160,000 Seuora Hurtado, 120,000 Ponce, 160,000 C.Guedes, 120 000 F. Lezica, 120,000 Eraspurae, 144,000 C. Murga, 120,000 R. Segurola, 360,000 Vr. Martinez, 120,000 J. Terreros, 240,000 Soler's factory, 160,000 Lorenzo Torres, 240,000 Velez Sarsfield, 160,000 Kavarro Viola, . . . 200,000 J. Silva, 160,000 M. Morillo, 400,000 A. Terreros, 100,000 Seflora Garmendi, 280,000 Echapon, 1()0,000 Benavente, 200,000 F. Visillac, 152,000 G. Diche, 240,000 P. Valle, 120,000 Perez Millau, . . . 200,000 Segurola, 144,000 MATA^tZAS. Name. Value. Name. Value. C. Silvera, 210,000 N. Biestra, . : . . 80,000 M. Marquez, 192,000 J. Castillo, .... 120,000 Edward Lumb, . . . 160,000 General Conesa, 120,000 F.Blanco, 108,000 J. Casanova, 100,000 F. Gotland, 108,000 M. Belgrano, 100,000 Isaguirre, 120,000 Mrs. Donovan, 50,000 S. Gousalez, 160,000 P. Bosenblad, .... 44,000 D. Gamas, 160,000 Ca villa, 144,000 Escarione, 144,000 Seuora Bejarano, 144,000 N.Daso, 160,000 Amespil, .... 1G0,000 J. B. Cafion, . . . . 120,000 C . Darby shire, .... 64,000 J. Canton, 120,000 J.P.Boyd, 76,000 C. Blanco, 100,000 Nield, 80,000 W. Daws, 52,000 M. Forrester, .... John Hughes, ... 200,000 Ill Section B. we h ave iiiaccuratel V nut down Mr. Terrero s qninta 77 belonging to Dofia Manuelita Bosas, his sister-in-law^ ; the design of the building was planned by her, and hence it took her name, although it was never her property. Justice of Peace, Don Bartolo Vivot ; Curate, Bev. Andres B. Otero; Postmaster, Don G. Castro. Municipality, six members. Municipal revenue, $205,000. San Jose de Flores is 1 league N. of the Matanzas river, I^S. of Belgrano, and 2i E. of Moron. Matanzas. Situate four leagues W. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 31 square leagues, of which 1 1 are devoted to agriculture, and 20 to sheep-farming. It is bounded on the N. by Moron and Merlo, on the AV.by LasHeras, on the S. by Matanzas river, which separates it from the Lomas de Zamora and Canuelas, on the E. by Flores. The Ezcurra estancia, commonly called del Pino, lies between the Arroyo Morales and the river of Matanzas. Those of Barnachea .ind Bodriguez are further south, on the Arroyo de los Pozos. Mr. Gahan's estate s one of the finest, having formerly belonged to the family of the Dictator Bosas ; the house is surrounded by a large plantation, and distant about 3 leagues from the village of Merlo. Mr. Gahan is one of our oldest and most prosperous 78 THE WESTERN PARTIDOS. Irish residents, and has another large estancia at Navarro. The estancias of Villaraajor and Zamudio are on the borders of Las Heras, and those of Anchoreua and Guerrero are N. of the Arroyo Morales. The estancia lands are assessed at §960,000 per square league. The stock returns are — 9,861 cows, 2,773 horses, 1,200 fine sheep, 114,335 raestiza sheep, and 68 pigs; being an average of 600 cows, 150 horses, and 6700 sheep per square league. The principal estancias are — Name. S. Leagues. Name. S. Leagues Ezcurra, .... .... H Carriso, family, i' Almaraz, 3 Robledo, i Barnechea, .... .... 2i Aguirre, i Merio, family, i Alvarado JL Anchorena, .... i Rodriguez, family. i J.B. Ramos i Guerrero, i Villamayor, family, .... 2i Pasdorf, i Thomas Galian, .... 1 Paez, i M. Senas, .... .... f Sosa, .... . . . . •i Zamudio, family, .... 2 There are 161 clia eras, cover ii ig 70,000 acres of tillag e. The incipal are:— Name. Cuadras. Name. Cuwdras. E. Ramos Mejia, 5G0 Mrs. Stingier, .... 147 1). Posse, 594 H. Schoo, . ... 103 Lino Lagos, 426 Tobar, family, .... 100 Laas' heirs, 506 Ezcurra, .... ^150 J. Elias, .... 550 Yillegas, family, 184 Sra. Achaval, 179 Romero, .... 170 S. Gonsalez, 266 Mendez, .... .... 133 F- Madero, 580 F. Bravo, 85 F. Madariaga, 660 M. Ramos Mejia, The Ramos Mejia property is exceedingly valuable, and runs down to the Matanzas river : it was originally a grant from the King of Spain to Don Juan de Garay, A.D. 1580, for a great victory gained by the latter over the Indians on the banks of this river, which hence derives its name, «matanza)) (a great slaughter). The families of Ramos and 3Iadero have magnificent residences built on their grounds. The valuation of the chacra lands varies from $ 1 ,000 to $2,000 per cuadra. The district is admirably suited for agriculture, beiiig well watered, fertile, and within easy reach of the city. One of the first foreign settlers in this neighborhood, about 40 years SAN MARTIN. 79 ago, was Mrs. Hannah Burns, who started a dairy-farm here ; on two or three occasions her cattle were stolen from her during the civil wars, but she as often rescued them, going in pursuit with a pair of pistols stuck in her belt : she subsequently took an estanciaou the Indian frontier, fortifying her house with a fosse and rampart on which she mounted two field-pieces; meantime her nephew managed the estancia near town. This heroic woman at last died from taking a drink of cold water on a hot day in summer, about fifteen years ago, at her frontier fortress, aged over sixty years. The total valuation of the partido of Matanzas is 31,000,000, against 16,000,000 in 1861. Contribucion tax, $124,000. There are barely fifty Irish in the district. The population returns are — 9i7 Argentines, 220 Italians, 38 Spaniards, 36 Germans, 30 French, 5 English, 37 others; total 1313. There are 225 houses and 338 ranchos, including 28 pulperias : four alcaldes, 20 tenientes, 12 policemen. The village of San Justo is the chief town of the partido ; it has a couple of hundred inhabitants, a church, state-schools, two dry-goods' stores, and a few pulperias ; there are only nineteen rateable houses, the best being those of Cordero, Picaluga, Peluffo, Elizalde, and Besteche, valued from ^50,000 upwards. General Conesa has a very handsome quinta, not far from the San Martin station, which is the nearest on the Western Railway. The state-schools are attended by 37 boys and 80 girls. Justice of Peace, Don Hilario Schoo, Avho is also post-master ; Municipality, six members ; Municipal revenue, §220,000. San Martin. Situate four leagues N.W. of Buenos Ayres, is a purely agricultural district, with an area of three and a-half square leagues. The partido is bounded on the north by San Isidro, on the west by the Biver Las Conchas, which separates it from Moreno, on the south by Moron and Flores, and on the east by Belgrano. There are 93 chacias, comprising 20,000 acres under tillage. The land is valued at §1,600 per cuadra, or §2,500,000 per square league. Total valuation §9,000,000: it did not form a distinct partido in 1862. The lands are very productive, and in a high state of cultivation. Formerly there was a cabana for the purest Saxony and Bambouillet rams, started by Seiior Yedia, but the establishment was sold cat in 1867. 80 THE WESTERN PARTIDOS. The principal chacras are as follow : — Name. Cuadras. Name. Cuadras Mauuel Lynch, 900 M. Funes, .... 80 Leonardo Pereyra, . . . 791 Blanco, 70 Jacob Fiorini, 320 Boniche, .... 70 F. Igartua, 275i F. Luna, .... 90 Aguirre, .... 240 A. Salguero, 74 J.Despay, 100 M. Mir 6, 60 F. Ballester, 150 M. Sanchez, 60 A. Santamaria, 140 F. Hue, 65 R. Kratzenstein, 120 M. Ballester, 110 The village of San Martin is a mere hamlet, situate on the right of the Western Baihvay : it has a church, school, and forty-one rateable houses, of wliich the best belong to Juan Bonifachini, S. Sicardi, J. Echepaure, Lombardo, Camara, and Glaurure, valued from ^40,000 upwards. The returns of stock are — 6,327 cows, 862 horses, 75 fine sheep, 4,750 mestiza sheep, and 136 pigs. There are 1 55 houses and 426 ranches, including 3 shops and 22 pulperias. The returns of population are — 1,841 Argentines, 504 Italians, 113 Spaniards, 107 French, 6 English, I Indian, 91 various — total 2,666. There are 4 alcaldes, 16 tenientes, and 9 policemen. Contri- bucion tax, $36,000. Justice of Peace, Don Juan M. Campos; Curate, Rev. Jose. Leoneti ; Postmaster, Don Eustaguio Marin. San Martin will increase in importance when Messrs. Rubio & Fx)ley carry out ther projected railway from Floresta to the Luxan river. Moron. The village of Moron is one of the most important stations on the "Western Railway, distant about fourteen miles west of the city of Buenos Ayres. It is the head of the partido of the same name, which including the village has about 4,000 souls; more than two-thirds of these are foreigners. The partido is bounded on the N.W. by the Rio Las Conchas, which separates it from Moreno, on the W. by Merlo, on the S. by 31atansas, and on the E by Flores. The Rio Las Conchas and its tributary, the Canada de Moron, are the only water-courses of the district. Moron is a great resort for families passing the summer in the country, being an hour's ride in the cars from the city, and is generally considered healthy. Its appearance is lively and ijuportaut, and it is undoubtedly ' MORON. ' 81 going a-head. The plaza is one of the neatest of any town in the province : it is well laid out with good walks and trees. The chapel is small, but the Municipality have contracted for the erection of a splendid new church, with three naves, which Avhen finished will cost over a million of dollars currency, principally to come from public lands that are now being sold by auction. The Juzgadoand free-schools are elegant and commodious public buildings. The cemetery, a short distance to the south, is an honor to the village: it is neat, well situated, and properly cared. Many natives and foreigners have handsome residences in the village, among the latter Messrs. Koch, Laplane, La Roche, Garcia, and others : at short distances from the village there are some fine country seats, such as those of Messrs. Coflin, Garbeler, Repetto, Masias, Gaviua, Keiman, &c. On the road leading to the north from the village, a fine bridge has been built by the Municipality over the Canada de Moron, and another by a private company, is now finished, over the Rio de las Conchas, at Paso de Morales, close to a valuable water mill belonging to Mr. Louis Langevin ; these facilities for traffic from the northern partidos were urgently required, and will soon prove of great advantage to Moron. This partidowas formerly large, but has been greatly reduced of late to form the partidos of 3Ierlo, Las Heras, &c. Its area at present is about A^ square leagues, entirely absorbed in chacras and quintas, cultivated mostly by Italians and Basques, who prosper wonderfully and are daily becoming OAvners of the land. The demand for good chacras is brisk, and prices are advancing. Recent sales have been made of Bailados on the Rio de las Conchas, some two or three leagues from the village, at from $1,000 to §2,320 per cuadra. High lands, according to circumstances, are worth $2,500 to $6,000 per cuadra. In the village building lots are worth from "$500 to $1,500 per vara of frontage by 50 deep. Before the formation of the new partidos of Las Heras and Merlo there were some estancias included in the partido, viz. : — Name. S. Leagrues Cascallares, .... .... 2 H. W. Smyth, .... 1 Calderon, .... .... 1^ Gil Diaz .... 1 Kame. S. Leagues. E. Cieza, .... 1 F. Correa, .... f Arroyo,^ .... .... ^ Chaves i There are not at present more than 6,000 sheep in this partido. Mr. Keiman keeps a small flock of ]\'egretti ewes at his chacra for breeding rams; he is the only one now in Moron holding out in this business. The Cabafias Laspiur, the Sociedad iNegrettis, the Rambouillet, and lastly the Cabana Perez Mendoza, hijo, are all done up of late years. IT 82 THE WESTERN PARTIDOS. There are 194 chacras, of which the following are the principal: — Name. Value. Name. Value. V. Rubio, $550,000 T.B. Coffin, 100,000 Burgos, .... 442,000 R. Marquez, 100,000 Castex, .... 300,000 V. Diaz, 100,000 Davovedo, 200,000 P. Arispe, 130,000 Matias R. Mejid, 200,000 J. Kock, 160,000 Ex. Ramos Mejia, 1 40,000 J. Garcia, 100,000 A. Manzanares, 100,000 L. Pellon, 200,000 J. Elias, 120,000 r. Rodriguez, . . . 150,000 John Brack, 200,000 P. Rusio, 150,000 Sra. Alarcon, .... 115,000 F. Small, 110,000 Sra. Puyrredon, 600,000 Mrs. Stegman, . . . 150,000 r. Madero, 228,000 Sra. Giles, 100,000 S. Loza, .... 150,000 John Cornell, . . . 132,000 A. Juarez, .... 100,000 F. Acosta, 100,000 L. Gabaler, 100,000 P. Alvarado, 120,000 A race-course and fair grounds (uniting pleasure with utility) are about being established near the village. This enterprise is regarded with interest, and when completed will undoubtedly attract thousands of visitors. The smaller holdings of Gerald Dillon, Van Pradt, W. Tinson, John Langdon, and many others were also included, but most of these are no longer of this partido. The returns of stock at that time were— 4,935 cows, 1 ,997 horses, 2,327 fine sheep, 29,052 raestiza sheep, 1,200 Creole sheep, being an average of 120 cows, 50 horses, and 800 sheep per square league, Tlie extent of the partido was 40 square leagues; valuation 9,000,000 in 1862, and 25,000,000 in 1865. The valuation of land i& §800,000 per league for estancias, and 1,000 to $1,500 per cuadra for chacras. The traveller will be mucli struclv with the elegant style of the country-seats of Mr. Coffin, Don Francisco Madero, and the families of Ramos Mejia. Mr. Coffin is a leading American merchant in Buenos Ayres, and has contributed much to the advancement of 3Ioron ; his residence^ called Ohio Park, is^fitted up in the best American style, and provided with all the latest improvements in agricultural implements and machinery. There is a small theatre at Moron, where balls are given in the summer seasons. The state-schools are attended by 65 boys and 80 girls. The English residents are about fifty in number. Justice of Peace, Don 3riguel Naon ; Curate, Rev. Francisco Romero ; Post-master, Don Andres Abascal;. Municipality, six members ; Municipal revenue, $270,000. MERLO. 83 Moron is 2J leagues N. of the Matanzas river, 2 S.E. of Rio de Las Conchas, 9 >\>\E. of Cauuelas, and 9 E.of Villa Luxan. Merlo. Situate 7 leagues W. of Buenos Ayres, is a new partido formerly com- prised in that of Moron : it is bounded on the N. and W. by 3Ioreno, from ■which it is separated by the River Conchas, on the S. by Matanzas, and on the E. by Moron. It has an area of 1 4| square leagues, and the principal estancias have been already mentioned in speaking of Moron. M. Wyatt Smyth's establishment is often visited by strangers from Europe, the ar- rangements being in excellent order, and giving a favorable impression of camp life : there is a good deal of land under grain, and the estancia is within a short distance of either the Merlo or Moreno stations. There are numbers of Irish sheep-farmers and puesteros in this partido, and the total English population numbers over .300. The estancias of Don Juan Dillon and Mr. Pearson are near the village of Merlo. The stock returns are — 7,255 cows, 4,iOO horses, 1,5G8 line sheep, 301,312 mestiza do., 664 pigs, being an average of 500 cows, 300 horses, and 21,000 sheep per square league. There are 1 16 chacras, covering more than 2,000 acres of tilled land. Population returns — 1,5/9 Argentines, 158 English, 1 10 Spaniards, 52 Italians, 34 French, 2 Germans, 18 various; total 2,003. There are 72 houses and 254 ranches: 4 Alcaldes, 19 teuientes, and 6 policemen. Merlo is an insignificant hamlet Avith a few hundred inhabitants, a Justice of Peace, Municipality, state-schools, and Gothic chapel. The former Justice of Peace was Don Juan Dillon, a gentleman of Irish descent and until recently there was an Irish curate. Rev. P. J. Dillon, now Diocesan Professor of Theology. There are 18 rateable houses. That built by Mr. Boyd is a neat country-house, and among the foreign residents are Messrs. John Maclean, Blumstein, and Richmond. There is a large mill in the neighborhood, belonging to Messrs. Blumstein and La Roche. The branch railway to Lobos will start from Merlo. Justice of Peace D. Antonio Juarez, Post-master D. Juan Dillon, Municipality six members, Municipal revenue §250,000. The state-schools are attended by 40 boys and 43 girls. Moreno. Situate 8 leagues W. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 10 square leagues, comprisiag 25 estancias and 83 chacras. FF2 THE WESTERN PARTIDOS. The principal estancias are — Name. S. Leagues, Alvarez .... .... 2^ Sra. Ramirez. .. . .... f h\ Poncel .... f F. A'guilar, .... -J Name. S. Leagues. N. Lastra i Ocampo, family, .... ^ J. Costa, .... -I R. Casco, .... .... 1 The partido is bounded on the N. by Pilar, from which it is separated by, the Arroyo Escobar, on the W. by Luxan, on the S. by Las Heras, and on the E. by Merlo. The Alvarez estancia, occupying one-fourth of the partido, is watered by the Arroyos La Choza and Sauce, and bisected by the line of railway running westward to Luxan. The lands of Alcorta and Casco are situate on the Arroyo de Perros, an aflluent of the Conchas river. The principal chacras are those of Carranza, Gutierrez, Posse, Westers and Corviere ; that of Carranza coveiing a thousand acres, beautifully cultivated. The cabana of the late Sr. Alcorta is a handsome property, valued at §500, 000. There are not many of our countrymen in this partido, their number hardly exceeding 100: they are visited by Rev. J. O'Reilly from Villa Luxan. Agriculture is making much progress, there being over 12,000 acres under tillage. The stock returns are — 5,950 cows, .3,876 horses, 150 fine sheep, 138,168 mestiza do., 4,200 Creole do., and 810 pigs, being an average of 600 cows, 400 horses, and 15,000 sheep to the square league. The land is valued at §450,000 per league. Total valuation 6 millions, Contribucion ta\ §24,000. Population returns — • 1,690 Argentines, 156 French, 78 Italians, 41 English, 35 various, 61 Spaniards, 2 Germans; total 2,063. There are 63 houses and 319ranchos; 3 alcaldes, 10 tenientes, 7 policemen, and 254 National Guards. The village of Moreno consists of 35 houses and a dozen shops irregu- larly grouped around a large plaza. There are also a church, state-schools, and a good inn (Labastie). The traveller's notice will be attracted by an unfinished building at a corner of the plaza, with a lofty amiradorw ; this was the work of a Frenchman employed to build the church, who died suddenly before completing his picturesque abcde. Moreno was a place of some trifling importance when it was the terminus of the Western Railway, but now it is dropping to decay. The state-schools are attended by 30 boys and 34 girls. Justice of Peace, Don Emilio Carranza ; Post-master, Don Telipe Yicenter ; Municipality, five members ; Municipal revenue, §100,000. The only English residents who have houses in the village are Messrs. Henry Gowland and Joseph Cesario. Mr. ]}eutefuhr has an extensive dairy, v.ith steam-power attached, and sends in the butter by LAS HKRAS. Oo train to the city ; he has also a large establishment for rearing silk-worms, an industry that begins to assume some importance. Las Eeras. Situate eleven leagues west of Buenos Ayres, is a partido of recent formation, with an area of thirty-seven square leagues, entirely devoted to sheep-farming. It has fifty-one estancias averaging three-quarters of a league each. Most of this partido was taken from that of Lujan, under which heading the principal estancias will be found, as we are unable to divide with suflicient accuracy the estancias belonging respectively to Las Heras and Lujan. The partido is bounded on the North by Lujan, on the "West by Navarro, on the South by Lobos and Cafiuelas, and on the East by Matanzas. The only water-courses are the La Choza, Durazuo, and La Paja. The returns of stock for the new partido are — 6,i53 cows, 7,549 horses, 5,718 fine sheep 642,356 mestiza ditto, and 361 pigs; being an average of 170 cows, 200 horses, and 17,000 sheep per square league. The land is decidedly over-stocked, and in seasons of drought the losses in sheep have been considerable. The number of Irish farmers and 'puesteros' is very large, at least 200; the principal estancias are those of Plomer, Casey, Lynch, Correa, Gonzalez, Dillon, Zamudio, Villamayor, &c. The official returns of population are — 1,219 Argentines, Italians 135, French 203, Spaniards 71, English 41, others 21 ; total 1,670. There are fifty houses and 439 ranches: six alcaldes, twenty-three tenientes, nine policemen. The town of the partido is to be called Rodriguez, after a general of that name, but as yet there are only seven houses ; the site was marked out by Governor Saavedra, a couple of years ago, and he ordered that the church, Vhenever built, should be dedicated to St. Patrick, as most of the neighbors are Irishmen. Las Heras was the name of anotlier Argentine general, in whose honor the partido is so called. The land here. would be very suitable for agriculture, having the railway to carry the produce into town. It is within two hours' journey of Buenos Ayres. Liijcan. Situate nearly 1 4 leagues W. of Buenos Ayres, is the greatest Irish settlement in South America ; before the recent demarcation of new partidos, it had an area of 40 square leagues, comprising 179 estancias, with an average of ^ a league each. 86 THE WESTERN PARTIDOS. The partido is bounded on the N. by Capilla del Seilor, on the N.W. by Giles, on the W. by Mercedes, on the S. by Navarro and Las Heras, and on the ^ast by Moreno. The chief estancias are the following : — Name. Oil vera, jN, Gonsalez, M. Biaiis, Cruz Casas, . . . Peter Ham, . . . Acufia, P. Garaghan, B. Irigoyen, . . , L. Lagos, L. Casey, 0. Lynch, Lopez, family, Manzanares, . . Pacheco's heirs, Yillalba, Villarino, Ulrich & Co., -J. Murphy, . . Navarro, family, R. Peralta, . P. Col man, . Sra. Achaval, John Brown, This has always been a favorite partido for sheep-farmers, on account of its^ central position and fine camps. It is watered by the Luxan river and the arroyos La Choza, Durazno, Arias, &c. Land was sold a few years ago so high as £10,000 sterling per square league, owing to the great competition among Irishmen themselves. The otlicial valuation is little more than a-third of that sum, viz., $450,000 per league. Total valuation 22,000,000, against 13,000,000 in 1862. Contribucion tax, $88,000. The Irish population in the partido is over 5,000, and they are for the most part thriving and industrious. Several of them are possessors of decent fortunes, with valuable tracts of land and thousands of superior mcstiza sheep. Besides the estancicros above-named there are hundreds on rented land or in partnership as medianeros. S. League. Name. 8. League • . . H Mrs. Maxwell, i- H P, Burgess, .... . . . . i H J. Contreras, i . . . . . H J. Benites, .... .... i . . . . H David Clavin, i . . . . I Rodriguez, family, . . . . i f John Beris, .... .'. . . 1 4 . . . . 1 S. Casas, i • . . . . 1 Sra Caraballo, i . . . . 1 Cheves family. H . . . . 1 Cano, family, H 1 Casco, family. i . . . . i Alexander Cook, .... i , . . . . i Cordova, family, i . . . . i Gutierrez, family, . . . . i f M. Kenny, 1 4 f M.Fitzsimons, i , . . . i D.Kenny, .... I , ... ' H Mendez, family. i . i Penalva, family, i . i Ramirez, family. i 1 Saavedra, family. 1 i LUXA.TI. 87 The Irish settlers are so numerous that they form more than half the population of the partido, including of course their children, jyho are put down in the official returns as Argentines. They were the first to try sheep-farming, which now forms the riches of the district and of Buenos Ayres, the partido of Lu\an yielding over 120,000 arrobes of wool, say 3,00O,00oS per annum, worth £50,000 sterling. The stranger will do well to visit the estancii ; of 3Ir. John Brown, Messrs. Ham, Kelly, Casey Lynch and others. The first-named resides about two leagues south of Luxan, and has a fine estancia-house newly built, and surrounded with a quinta and peach -plantation : our hospitable countryman is native of AVex- ford, and has resided many years in the country. An easy gallop of half an houi* further south takes us to Mr. Hamm's large estancia, where the owner will give you dinner and bed, and you can start next morning for Casey's, another valuable establishment, in the direction of Navarro, Mr. Owen Lynch's estancia is near Moreno, with a comfortable farm- house. Fitzsimmons, Burgess and Murphy are north of the Biver Lujan ; Garaghan and Cruz Casas are south of La Choza ; Irigoyen, Lagos and David Clavin lie between the Arroyo Durazno and La Choza. The large estancia of Don Domingo Oliviera is traversed by the railway, and watered on either side by the Lujan river and Canada de Arias. The official returns of stock are — 16,223 cows, 9,536 horses, 750 fine sheep, 790,400 mesliza ditto, 6,000 Creole ditto, and 2,710 pigs; being an average of 400 cows, 250 horses, and 20,000 sheep per square league. The lands are greatly over-stocked, having fully double their proper complement. In seasons of drought the losses have been ruinous, but there is usually in summer a great crop of thistles which protects the young grass from the scorching heat. The land south of the town is some of the richest in the province, especially a vein of five or six leagues in width which runs from Moreno to Leones, a distance of about fourteen leagues. In the north and north-west the land is good, but near the town it is light and uncertain. This partido is not at all suited for beginners. If the Municipality would encourage agriculture by bestowing farm-lots, as in the Swiss Colony of Baradero ,it would add immensely to the wealth and importance of the partido. Agriculture is making some progress, there being 363 chacras, with an extent of 12,000 acres under tillage, or about an average of eight cuadras to each chacra. Most of these are in the immediate vicinity of the town, and Italians and other foreigners raise wheat, vegetables and fruit in large quantities. The traffic with the neighboring partidos, by means of bullock- carts, was for a long time much impeded by the difficult passes of the Lujan and other rivers, but now bridges are at all the points of most importance . 88 THE WESTERN PARTIDOS. The fine estancia belonging to the family of Olivera is 3f leagues in extent, and situated in this partido, between the towns of Luxan and Mercedes, hn. the estancia there are five large «montes,)) and no less than thirty-five «puestos,)> the majority of which are rented to Irish estancieros, and the remainder are used by the proprietor as stations for «capones» sent in to the Buenos Ayres market, from his other estancia, called La Potrilla. The following is a list of the principal tenants on the land : — Name. Puestos. Bernard Heavy, John Brown, Bernard Lynes, Michael Gardner, John Kelly, .... Patrick Sullivan, Thomas Keegan, ■J. Keenan, .... Name. Thomas White, Pierre Elicabe, John Siammon, Puestoa^ Joseph M'Laughlin, Thomas Kane, James Doughton, Lorenzo Carcagno, Thomas Clavin, On the river Lujan, und about eight squares from the principal station of the Western railway, is the station called Olivera, which is a great convenienee for those living on this estate, the farmers being able to send their wool and hides by rail into town at 25 per cent, less than what is charged by bullock carts. The estancia is within three hours ride of town ; «capones» from the estancia can also be sent by rail twice a day to town. In the Estancia de las Acacias, which is only six squares from the railway station, is the fine ram breeding establishment so well known ; one flock is composed of pure Eambouillet, selected from the flocks of the celebrated French farm of M. Gilbert de Wideville ; there is also another flock, 1,500 head of pure Negrettes from the Remedies, which is being crossed with Rambouillet. The estancia is fronted by the river Lujan for a league and a-half, and on the opposite side has the Arroyo de Arias, from whence springs the fine river Las Conchas, 'which falls into the Parana, in front of the town of the same name. The land is extremely fertile, and along the River Lujan high and adapted for chacras, and on the other side the laud is low, skirted by beautiful «baiiados,)) and peculiarly adapted for sheep farming, being freed from all danger of drought. The family of Olivera has also a fine estancia in the partido 25 de Mayo, six leagues distant from that town, and six leagues in extent. It is fronted by the River Saladillo, and the well-known «laguna» called Potrillo. There arc thirty <(puestos» on the Ic^nd, and about 50,000 fine mestiza sheep, nearly all cared by Irishmiu, who hold the flocks on thirds. There are also in this estate about 5;000 head of horned cattle, and 500 mares, divided into different LUXAN. 89 «rodeos.» A diligence every second day leaves Chivilcoy for the 25 de Mayo, on the arrival cf the first train from Buenos Ayres : this coach arrives at the 25 de Mayo at night. When the Lobos railroad will be finished this estancia will be as near it as to Chivilcoy. Nearly all the peones, puesteros, and shepherds on these fine estates, are British subjects. Away in the far South, at Quequen Grande, the Olivera family also ow^n a large estancia, some ten leagues of Government land, but as yet there are no foreigners on this property, which is purely a cattle farm, having about 1 1,000 head of horned cattle, 200 horses, and 3,000 mares. The estancia house is brick, and built overlooking the Arroyo Quequen, at the Paso de Otero, on the hills of Malatue : this fine estate is distant about 270 miles from the city. This wealthy estanciero family is also owner of the Estancia de los Remedios, in the district or partido of San Jose de Flores, as already mentioned in the list of proprietors in that partido. This small ram breeding estancia is not far from the Floresta station, wiiich is only thirty minutes ride from the city ; it is 400 squares square — 28 squares are under peach mounts, 50 squares under alfalfa, which are rented to farmers; also large fields for caring cattle on the way into market, fenced with uandubay posts and wire ; the charge for minding the cattle is one paper dollar per head per day, or §40ni(; per month for horses. On this fine farm Mr. Edward Olivera, one of the most enterprising of Argentines, resides. On the farm is a fine Negretti flock picked from the flocks of Keller de Chrezelitz, in Silesia, and from Moideuteu and Ischendorff, in Mecklenburg ; the fleeces of rams give an average weight of 20U to 2211 in the grease, and the sheep about 17% per fleece. The general average for the sheep is 1.3ft per fleece. This flock was started in 1858, with only twenty-eight sheep and three rams, from Chrezetitz; in 1865, three rams, Moideuteu, were introduced, and in 1868 three more rams from Ischendorff ; each year the flocks are revised, and all animals not up to the mark are taken out, there only remaining 200 breeding sheep, the remainder sold, thus the breed from this flock is now scattered over this Republic, the Banda Oriental, and Entre-Rios, and to be found at all the best estancias. Few men have labored more to advance the industrial interests of this country than Mr. E. Olivera, the proprietor, who has travelled over Europe, and inspected all the very best farms in Germany. Since his return to the River Plate he has been a prominent writer in the new spapers on all such matters, and is chief editor of the linral Magazine^ a publication of real practical worth, and supported by the principal estancieros in this country. Villa Lujan is one of the oldest and most historic towns in the Province. The royal schedule for its foundation bears date 1756, and the present 90 THE WESTERX PARTIDOS. church was begun in 1760 and finished three years later. The place was besieged by the Indians and miraculously saved by a fog in 1780. At the beginning of the present century it was the starting-point for travellers proceeding to the upper Provinces ; and during the English invasion of 1806 the vice-roy Liniers escaped hither from B. Ayres with the bullion and treasures of the Cabildo. In 1832, Rosas imprisonedGen. Paz and kept him here seven years. The population of the town at present is 1 ,500 and there are two handsome State-schools. The pyramid in tlie Plaza bears a bust of Gen. pelgrauo. Under the last Justice of Peace great improvements were made ; the lamp-posts in the Plaza were procured from England and are the same as used in London. The church is famous for an antique statue of the Blessed Virgin, and has been recently repaired by Governor Saavedra, at an outlay of §100,000. The new bells have been cast in Buenos Ayres : the old ones were cracked in ringing for the overthrow of Gen. Oribe. The curate will show the shrine of the Virgin, which is no less remarkable for its antiquity, than for the number of pilgrims who come hither from the upper Provinces and other countries of South America. It is above the high altar, and we ascend by a winding-stair which leads into an apartment of the turret, on one side commanding a fine view of the campagna, and on the other overlooking the interior of the church. The offerings of silTer arms, legs, &c., exceed 50,000 in number, weighing altogether several arrobes : the gifts last year amounted to fifteen pounds of silver. Before the shrine is a silver lamp bearing the inscription ' Agustin de Curia donavit, A. D. 1730.", The town takes its name from the river, and the latter from a Spanish officer, who was killed here in a battle with the Indians, more than three hundred years ago. LujaU; however, is not so ancient. In the beginning of the eighteenth century a rich and devout lady of Sumampa, in Bolivia, ordered a statue of the Blessed Virgin from Spain, and it was being conveyed overland from Buenos Ayres, when the oxen got tired at the banks of the Lujan river and could not be made to proceed further. This was the first origin of the shrine. In 1744 it became a frontier fort, and we have a record that the population of all the camp districts was then no more tlian 6,064 souls. The frontier then ran southward by ^'avarro, Guardia Monte and Chascomus. Lujan looks exceedingly pretty and picturesque from whatever side we approach it, the church and cabildo being conspicuous objects. The Plaza is very tasteful, the streets have more animation than is usual in camp towns, and there are several excellent shops, inns, coffee-houses, billiard rooms, «&c. There are three flour mills and various brick-kilns in the MERCEDES. 9^1 neighborhood, and the cemetery is situated ou a high ground beyond the river, which is crossed by a good bridge. The streets much require paving, being almost impassable after rain. The State-schools are fine spacious buildings, attended by 103 boys and 84 girls. There are two resident doctors and an apothecary. The Irish clergyman, Rev. J. O'Reilly resides in the plaza : he has a library for the use of his parishioners. Numbers of respectable families from Buenos Ayres have country-houses here, and come to spend a month or two of the hot season. The annual fete of the town occurs on December 8, and is attended by the Governor and other distinguished guests, when the festivities begin with a High Mass, after whichthe natives run the 'sortija,' and a banquet is given by the Munici- pality, terminating with fire-works and a grand ball at the Cabildo. The town has 156 rateable houses, of which the best belong to — Cruz Casas, Cheves, Gintas Casal, Lezcano, Espinosa, Garralda, Jaurregui, Montiel, Maldonado, Orraachea, Pequefio, Ramirez, Salguero, Gruz Sein, and Ureta, all valued from $100,000 upwards. The mill of Jammes and Roque is valued nearly $500,000, and tliat of Jaurregui at $ 1 50,000. The official returns of population ape — Argentines 4,683, English 2,573, Spaniards 1,804, Italians 613 French 526, Germans 51, Indians 4, various 38— total 10,292. There are 390 houses and 979 rauchos; 6 alcaldes, 35 tenientes, 14 policemen, and 700 Nationjil Guards. Justice of Peace, Don Andres Lescano ; Gurate, Rev. Mr. Duteil ; Postmaster, Don Jose Masil ; Standard agent, Don Gruz Sein. Municipality, six members ; Municipal revenue, $220,^00. Villa Luxan is 5| leagues S. of Gapilla del Sefior, 6 E.N.E. of Mercedes, 10 i\.>'.E. of Navarro, 1^2 N.N.W. of Gauuelas, and 9 W. of Moron. Mercedes. Situate 20 leagues W. of Buenos Ayres, is another great and flourishing Irish settlement, with an area of 52 square leagues, containing 104 estancias. Agriculture is not making such progress as hi more remote and less favored districts; there are only 96 chacras, covering a little over 15,000 acres, and most of these are gardens and peach plantations which surround the town for more than a mile on every side. The official returns of population are — 6,633 Argentines, 726 Italians, 556 English, 575 French, 369 Spaniards, 20 Germans, 2 Indians, 56 others ; total, 8,937. There are 92 THE WESTERN PAKTIDOS. 456 houses, and 1,477 ranch os : and 1 ,533 National- Guards. The principal estancias are — 10 Name. Unzue, .... Achaval, family, Gorostiaga, . . . P. Frias, ... Pat. JFleming, M. Carranza, . . . M. Bernal, . . . S. Costa, Michael Allen, M. Castilla, . . . Durafiona, . . . R. Moncz, family, Sra. Lobo, .... Nicholas Lowe, Rodriguez's heirs, E.Rosalin, .... Aranguren, family, Avila, family, H. Diehl, .... Sra. Gomez, .... Laurence Kelly, Thomas Maguire, Yresbirueta, .... J. Luenge, .... Lescano, family, P. Martinez, Lima, family, Michael Murray, P. Suarez, F. Villafaue,.... A. Romero, V. Pueblas, .... Sra. Obelar, .... M. Delpont, .... L. Rodriguez, T. Freyre, Leagues. 8| 4 3 If n H 1 1 1 1 1 H i I i i i 1 1 H 1 H H n 1 11 i aides, 44 tenientes, 1^ i policemen, Name. S. Leagues, M.Montolla, f F. Flores, .... i Sra. Rodriguez, i M Tyrrell, .... i Aceituna, .... i Sra. Bogarin, i Barrancos, family. H Inzua, .... i Thomas Ledwith, i James Maguire, i Silva, family, f Galeano, i John Smith 2i Thomas Carney, f Sra. Saubidet, Bazan, f i F. Correa, , . . . f E. Cabral, f Balvidares, f N. Barrio, i E. Cardoso, . . . , 4 Escudero, .... 4 Funes, .... i Thomas Maguire 5 i JohnMahon,. . . i C. Garaghan, 4 Timothy Allen, 4 John Connor, i John Dillon,. . . . i John Flanagan, i Sra. Giles, i Irrazabal, .... i Patrick Keating, i Edward 3Iartin, i Devoto brothers. i Patrick Murphy, i MERCEDES. 93 The partido is bounded on the N. by Giles, on the W. by the new partido of Suipacha, and the Rio de Saladas, which separates it from Chivilcoy, on the S. by iN'avarro, and on the E. by Lu\an and Las Heras. The lands are watered by the River Luxan and its affluents, the Arrojos Leones, Cardoso, Dui'azuo, Ralta. Frias, &c. The large estancias of Unzue, Achaval and FrIas lie N, of the town of Mercedes, a little beyond the Luxan river, which is crossed near Frias. by a bridge. The estaucia formerly belonging to Hardoy and Voodgate has a beautiful house, in the stvle of au Euglish cottage, and attached to this there was, till recently, a cabafla of fine sheep. The lands of Thomas >[aguire, Flanagan, and Ledwith lie between Uuzue's estancia and the Arroyo Leones : those of Carney, Keating and Allen are iir the neighborhood of the Encadenadas lakes, near the partido of Chivilcoy. Fleming and Garaghan are at the Lagunas Turbia and Espadaua, in the direction of ?favarro : Mr. Fleming, some years ago, was surprised here by the Indians,, who partly cut his throat, but not so much as to prevent his altimate recovery. Messrs. Lowe .brothers have a nice place close to the Arrojo Balta, about two leagues E. of Mercedes. Michael Murray, James Maguire, Lawrence Kelly, and Mrs. Kenny are situate S. of Freyre station, between Cardoso's estancia and the Arrovo Saladas. John Connor adjoins the Pueblas estancia, a couple of leagues S. of Mercedes. John Dillon's and Edward Martin's lands are near the point where the Arroyos Leones, Durazno, and Cardoso meet, to form the head-waters of the River Luxan. Patrick JIurphy and Don Antonio Romero are southward, between John Smyth's estancia of Saladas and the boundaries of ISavarro. The estancias of Suarez and Ruiz Mones are S.W. of Los Leones arrovo, and Carranza's and Durauona's are near the Leones lagoon, There is a portion of the Gorostiaga estancia in this partido, but the greater part is in Chivilcoy, the owner is the present Minister of Finance, and he has 60,000 sheep on the land : the principal estancia house is a couple of leagues from Freyre station. The railway from Mercedes to Chivilcoy crosses the lands of Gomez, Sanchez, Mejia, Aranguren, Dillon, Martin, Murray, Suarez, Freyre, Gonsalez, Barrancos, and Gorostiaga. There are twenty Irish estancieros, whose lauded properties cover in the aggregate about 70,000 acres English, and these are stocked with a quarter of a million sheep. But this will only give an imperfect idea of the number and importance of the Irish community of Mercedes. Most of the native estancias are either rented out to our countrymen, or the proprietors have Irishmen as medianeros or puesteros to care their sheep. It may be estimated that there are a million sheep in this partido, either 94 THE WESTERN PARTIDOS. belonging to or cared by Irishmen, Avhose numbers, including their families, exceed 2,000. It is a legitimate source of pride to all foreigners, and especially to English and Irish residents, to be able to point to so many prosperous countrymen in the camp, >Yho landed on these shores a few years ago with no other capital than a strong arm and an honest and laborious purpose, and who have turned the desert camps into valuable sheep-farms, and gained for themselves the fortunes so nobly earned. The Irishmen of Mercedes vie with the most generous of their countrymen either here or in the old country, in supporting their clergy and institutions. Their parish priest is the Rev. J. Lynch, who has a library for their use at Mercedes : many of these have their daughters at school in the Irish Mercy convent at Buenos Ayres, and each JFarmer has also a tutor in his house to educate the boys ; this is no less true of the other partidos, wherever Irishmen are found. The stock returns are — 22,809 cows, 13,570 horses, 2i7 fine sheep, 1,326,209 mestiza sheep, 420 Creole sheep, and 969 pigs, being an average of 400 cows, 260 horses, and 26,000 sheep per square league. The land is mostly assessed dt $5.00,000, but some is so low as $320,000 per squar^ league, and other parts go up to double the last figure. Total valuation of town and district 57,000,000, against 28,000,000 in 1862. Contribucion ta\, g22S,000. The cit} of Mercedes, as it is officially styled, is one of the best towns in the camp, with a population of 3,000 souls. It has many handsome public buildings, a neat plaza, 33 very good shops, two inns, several hack- coaches, three doctors, an apothecary, two lawyers, public and private schools, and 332 rateable houses : of these last the best belong to — Villafafie, Aranguren, Saubidet, Silva, Pueblas, Napoleon, Mones, Martinez^ Cai-roque, Lobo, Lescano, Giraldo, Guilloto, Espil, N. Fresco, Cardoso, Carmona, Cabral, and Beuitez, all valued over §100, 000. The traveller will find every information from Messrs. Torroba Bros., who have a large "wholesale and retail store at a corner of the plaza ; the owners are old Spaniards, but speak English fluently, and do a great business in groceries, hardware, dry-goods, &c., principally with the Irish sheep-farmers : the house was established in 1857, and has a branch at Chilvilcoy. The new cabildo is a handsome structure, in the plaza, and has a ball-room 100 feet long, in whicli the annual ball and festivities are held on September 2'lth, the day of Nuestra Senora de Mercedes. The church is conmiodious and well kept, and on Sunday mornings it is crowded with Irishmen, for whom Father Lynch celebrates Mass and sometimes gives a sermon. The state- school was built in 1806, at a cost of $160,000: it has a fine front supported by six Doric columns, and surmounted by a balustrade, with a MERCEDES. 95 dozen vases of terra-cotta : the boys' school is on the right, and the girls on the left, each accommodating 200 pupils ; the wings are respectively occupied by the master and mistress, and have nice suites of rooms. Sr. Maldonado has conducted the boys' school for ten years with the utmost satisfaction. It "will agreeably surprise the stranger to find the state- schools of tliis and other camp towns so comfortable and neatly furnished, and the appearance of the children so orderly and respectable. ^ The Provincial branch-bank is under the charge of Don Pedro Arana. The railway station is of very large dimensions and tastefully finished ; it is under the direction of Senor Villarino, who has been employed on the line since its commencement : an excellent lunch-saloon is attached to the station. The theatre of the town is small and uncomfortable; a Spanish company plays here once or twice a year. Larroque's mill is Avell Avorth a visit ; it is two miles N. of the town, close to the bridge over the Luxan river, and was built in 1856, at an expense of £8,000 sterling. It works by steam as well as water, and can grind 100 fanegas in 24 hours: the vrater-wheel is 30-horse, the steam-eugine I5-horse power, the latter consuming 1^ tons of coal daily. The mill is three stories high, and a fine view of the surrounding country is obtained from the roof. Some of the quintas near the town are laid out with much taste : the best are those of — Durafiona, Delepiane, Romero, Lertua, Salvo, Solveyra, Cane, Punte, Parody, Urario, Millau, Mansilla, Lecot, Lescano, Iturrios, Gariboti, Campora, Bosquiaso, and Arze. Mercedes was called Guardia de Luxan at thebeginuing of the present century, when it was held as a frontier outpost. A great battle was fought about two miles westward some forty years ago, in which the Indians cut to pieces all the garrison, and a large wooden cross marks the spot of the disaster. Not far hence the telegraph wires start off northward to Rosario. The cemetery of Mercedes is badly kept; it is beyond the line of railway. Several Buenos Ayrean families have country- houses near the town, and come here for the summer months ; it is three and a-lialf hours' journey from Buenos Ayres, and there are two trains each way daily. The Western or Central Criminal Tribunal resides at Mercedes, and there is a prison under the Cabildo : the Criminal Judge is Dr ; Justice of Peace, Don Pedro Saubidet ; Irish Curate, Bev. J. Lynch; Post-master, Don Exequiel Landivar ; Standard agency, Messrs. Torroba Bros. ; Municipality, six members ; Municipal revenue, $620,000. Mercedes is 4^ leagues S. of Giles, 9 S.E. of Carmen de Areco, II E.?J.E. of Chiyilcoy, 11 N. of the Rio Salade, 8 N.N.W. of Navarro, and 6 W.S.W. of Luxan. 96 THE WESTERN PARTIDOS. Suipacha. Situate about 26 leagues W. of Buenos Ayres, is a nev/ partido, not yet properly organized, having neither Municipality, Justice of Peace, nor other public ofiicial. There is no town of any kind, but the probable site may bQ supposed to be on the estancia of Don Manuel Carranza, S.W. of the Laguua de Leones, and six. leagues dueW. of the town Mercedes. The partido will be bounded on the N. by Carmen de Areco, on the W. by €haeabuco and Chivilcoy, on the S. by the Western Railway and 3Iercedes, and the E. by Mercedes; with an area not exceeding 25 or 30 square leagues. The lands are fertile and well-watered, but entirely devoted to sheep-farming. The Arroyo de Leones is the principal water- course of the district: there is also a lagoon called Las Nutrias. The estancias to be comprised in this new partido will probably be the following — Carney, Rodriguez, Martinez, Carranza, Diehl, Barrio, Correa, Bogariu, Barrancos, Freyre, Balvidares, Mones Ruiz, Suarez, Villafaile, Durauona, Inzua, Silva, Costa, &c., which have already been described under the heading of Mercedes. We have no returns of population, stock, &c., all which are included in those of Mercedes. The partido derives its name from a victory over the Spaniards in the war of Independence. Chivilcoy, Situate 31 leagues W. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 90 square leagues, and may be regarded as the cradle of agricultural industry in these countries. 3Iore than half the total extent is under crops, there being no fewer than 1602 grain farms, with 300,000 acres under tillage, thus shewing an average of 40 cuadras to each chacra. The project of an agricultural settlement had long been agitated by Don Domingo Sarmieuto (now President of the Republic), and the colony was founded on Christmas eve 1854, one of the first settlers being Mr. Krause, a German: at that time it was a bare desert, the same as Indian territory, and the first settlers had not even a tree to shelter them, but lived in bullock-carts till they were able to dig wells and put up a few mud ranchos. Before a year elapsed the progress of the place was marvellous, and to-day when looking around the numberless grain-farms, handsome quintasand flourishing town CHIVILCOY. 97 -of Chivilcoy it is difficult to realize that all this is only the work of fifteen years. It is a splendid proof of the capabilities of the country, and an encouragement to Argentines for them to behold a glorious future in agricultural pursuits. Krause, Bunge, and Soarez were among the first cultivators, and the number at present is too ^reat to give- the names of all. Among the principal are — Krause, Klappenbach, Guerrea, Guui, Lucio, Robbio, IRicero, Cassi, Elortondo, Sabillaga, Torrijos, Soarez, Sacutegui, Recarde, Rodriguez, Roldan, Perez, Gatero, Ojeda, Pugola, Ovamburu, Kichen, Velarde, Uriarte, Uzueta, 3l9chinto, Galbencio. Gnillieji, Goyeneche, Gaitan, Gardey, Galarce, Echave, Espotorno, Esteco, Acosta. In 1862 the valuation of the partido was under 12,000,000; in 1865 it Siad risen to 43,000,000, and at present it cannot be short of $ (00,000,000 mjc- It is the boast of President Sarmiento that, before his period of office expires (1874), he will have «A hundred Chivilcoys throughout the Argentine Republic.)) For a long time Chivilcoy suffered a great check fl-om the difficulty and expense of sending its produce to Buenos Ayres by buUock-carts ; in 1861 the crop of Indian corn was so abundant that the farmers burnt it for fuel, the cost of transport being more than the value of the grain. Since the opening of the railway, 1866, the impetus given to farming has been unparalleled, and the wheat crops are now so large that it must soon form an article of evportation, whereas only ten years ago we depended entirely on flour from the United States. Most of the ((chacreros)) of Chivilcoy are foreigners, but there are also many natives, and the moral tone of the country will be immeasu ably unproved if the «paisanos)) can be induced to adopt habits of industry inslead of the vagrant and savage life of a Gauclio. GG 98 THE WESTERN PARTIDOS. There are some large estancias in the partido, the principal being : — Name. ♦ S. Leagues. Name. S. Leagues, White & Co., 51- Montenegro, family, . li Terreros, .... 10 Barroso, 1 Gorostiaga, .. . . 3 Pereyra, family, \i C ran well, family. H MansiUa^ - I Barrios, family, 21 Lob OS, family, 2 Biaus, .... 3^ Sra. Amespil, i Ronayne, 1 Valladores Bros. i- Bamos, .... Ih Barrancos, family. i Lopez, .... 4 Cruz, f Ovejero, .... 2 Diaz, family. i Sousa, family, ... 3i M. Ronayne, i V. Torres 2 F. Morris, i The partido is bounded on the N. by Carmen de Areco and Chacabu o, on the W. and S. by the Rio Salado, which separates it from Bragado and 25 de Mayo, and on the E. by Navarro and Mercedes. The largest estancia is that of Don Juan N. Terrero, near Las Toscas, on the banks of the Salado : the Canada de Peludos is the boundary between this estancia and Mr. Dowling's, which latter is in the partido of Chacabuco, The Cranwell estancia is S. of Terrero's, extending from the chacras of Chivilcoy down to the Salado : it is divided into nine portions, for Mrs. Cranwell and her eight children. The great establishment of Mr. James- White and Seiior Villarino is one of the finest in the west, and well worthy of a visit : it extends in a line of four leagues from the town of Chivilcoy to the edge of the Salado, and is devoted partly to agriculture and partly to grazing. This was one of the first model farms in the country, when tillage was first experimented here, and Mr. White's enterprise and improvements contributed in no small degree to stimulate and promote agricultural industry in Chivilcoy. The country on all sides of Mr. White's place, for miles around, is a succession of rich grain-farms; and a couple of leagues further east is the estancia Sau Bomon, the property of Don Manuel Lopez, and crossing the Canada Rica we come to the estancia of Mr. Michael Bonayne. The lands of Biaus, Montenegro, and Ramos are washed by the Rio Salado ; those of Pero^ra Sonza, Barrios, Rojas and Barrancos are close to the Arroyo Saladas, which separates them from Navarro and Mercedes. The greater part of the Gorostiaga estancia is in the partido of Chivilcoy, besides three square leagues in Mercedes, adjoining: it comprises four establishments, San .lose, ban Bernardo, San Patricio, and Santa Trinidad, each of which has a lagoon of the same name 3 Iff ■ cmviLCOY. 99 aud estancia house and plantation, and a large stock of sheep and cattle : there is a railway station on the land, called after the proprietor, and situate about midway from Freyre to Chivilcoy. The lands about Chivilcoy are very low, and watered by the Arroyos San Antonio, Hinojo, and Canada de Chivilcoy, which fall into the Rio Salado. The Lobo estanciais a couple of leagues S.W. of Chivilcoy, and those of Torres and Ovejaro are further westward. The prolonged line of railway to Bragado will traverse the chacras intervening between the estates of White and Cranwell, and across the Rio Salado in front of the large estancia of Don Mariano Biaus, in the partido of Bragado : this extension will be 25 miles long. The returns of stock for Chivilcoy are — 111,852 cows, 38,462 horses, S25 fine sheep, 875, 62i mestiza sheep, 5,200 creole, and 4,300 pigs; being an average of 2,500 cows, 800 horses, and 20,000 sheep per square league. The land is variously valued from $200,000 to $500,000 per league. The Irish population is comparatively small, not exceeding 200 in number : they are visited by Father Lynch from Mercedes. The oflBcial returns of population are — 10,690 Argentines, 347 Italians, 252 Spaniards, 220 French, 8i English, 21 Germans, 5 Indians, 43 various: total, 11,664. There are 298 houses, and 2,784 ranchos, including 266 pulperias : 16 alcaldes, 52 tenientes, 15 policemen, and 2,1 16 National Guards. Chivilcoy promises to be the finest town in the camp. The streets are wide, the houses well-built ; the plaza covers eight acres, and the aspect of the place is busy and prosperous. The basis of its vitality consists in the chacras, which form a zone of rich fertility on all sides, and the shops are well supplied w ith merchandise of every description. There is a first-rate club, with reading-room 50 feet long, billiard-tables, coffee-room, &c., the exterior being decorated with marble pillars. A public library has been recently started by Mr. Krause, to which President Sarmiento and General Mitre handsomely contributed. There is also a small theatre ; and a printing-office is about to be established. The state-school is exceedingly handsome ; over the front is a handsome statue of Our Lord bidding little ones to come unto him ; this is the work of M. Duteil : the arrangements of the school are elegant and commodious, the attendance numbering 101 boys and 50 girls. A couple of years ago a new church was commenced, on a scale of unnecessary magnitude ; the works have been of course abandoned, after a foolish outlay of money, and a very strange spectacle is now presented by the posts formerly used for scaffolding, which have taken root and blossomed luxuriantly. The best shops are in the plaza, and that of Torroba Brothers is a rendezvous for English neighbors. The town has a doctor, apothecary, photographer, auctioneer, and 85 shops, GG2 !00 THE WESTERN PARTIDOS. The cacique Coliqueo and some of his friendlj' Indians sometimes visit the town to buy necessaries. There are 237 rateable houses, of which the best are those belonging to — Villcgas, Valentino, Morel, Ortega, Oneto, Payro, Peyras, Pcchien, Peyeano, Rey Dresco UELAS. 103 situate at El Ombu, about midway between Cauuelas and San Vicente, adjoining Alfaro's estancia, and comprising over two square leagues. The enterprise was broken up, and Sefior Martinez de Hoz now dedicates himself to the same business, importing superior animals from England and Germany. The lands of Barreda, Lahitte and Villegas lie S. of the town, and those of Pereyra, Millan and Castro are on the borders of Matanzas. The stock of the partido counts — 12,902 cows, 13,003 horses, 16,380 fine sheep, 818,158 mestiza sheep, 1,000 creole sheep, and 122 pigs; being an average of 350 cows, 350 horses, and 21,000 sheep per square league. Tlie population returns are — 4,191 Argentines, 131 Italians, 247 Spaniards, 88 French, 79 English, 19 Germans, 174 various ; total, 4,933. There are 252 houses and 708 ranches, 5 alcaldes, 20 tenientes, 12 policemen, and 650 National Guards. The village of Cauuelas has about 2,000 inhabitants, mostly settlers from Old Spain or the Pyrenees. It is prettily situated, and has a fine new church, besides state-schools attended by 54 boys and 48 girls. There are a resident doctor and 2 apothecaries; 4 drapers' and 15 grocers' shops; 6 carpenters' shops, employing 20 men ; 2 forges, employing 4 men ; 3 brick-kilns, making about 2,000,000 bricks each season ; 4 shoemakers, employing 30 men and women ; one silversmith and assistant ; 5 barracas for storing produce, which keep 30 bullock-carts constantly employed; 24 brick-lavers, and 40 hodmen, who have constant work ; 1 confectioner, I hotel, 4 inns, 1 tailor and assistant, 1 candle-manufacturer, 3 billiard- tables, 6 butchers. There are 70 rateable houses, of which the best are those of — Castro, Gonsalez, Arrieta, Fuentes, John Griffin, Villegas, Zelarayan, Rodriguez, Mufiiz, Bletcher, Garcia, and Galicia, valued from $70,000 upwards. Justice of Peace, Don Desiderio Davel ; Curate, Rev. Alfonso Raffaeli ; Postmaster, Don Ventura Cano ; Standard agents, Messrs. DaYel & Co.; municipality, six members; Municipal revenue, $160,000. The Irish of this district are visited by the Rev. Mr. Curran, from Lobos, once a month, and the Scotch pastor, Rev. Mr. Smyth, attends once a month at Mr. McClymont's estancia. The registry books shew that of every 100 children baptized, 55 are legitimate and 45 are illegitimate : this is about the average in many of the rural districts. Cauuelas is distant five leagues from San Vicente, eight from 3Ierlo, ten from Rio Salado, and eight from Guardia Monte. Navarro. Situate 17 leagues W.S.W. of Buenos Ayres, and 9 leagues W. of Cauuelas, has an area of 68 square leagues : it is bounded on the N. by 104 THE SOUTH-WF. STERN PARTIDOS. Villa Laxan, on the W.by Chivilcoy, on the S. by the Rio Salado and LoboSy and on the E. by Las Heras and Canuelas. The pripcipal estancias are^ — S. Leagues. .... 2i Xarne. Mufioz, family, 2 Ramirez, .... 2 Sole, family, 3 Ibarra, . . . . H 5 Trejo, Duran, H Piilero, . . . . H Santillan, .... 2 .... H Sejas, Calderon, . . . . 2i H 1 Mrs. Kenny, Jolm Maguire, Patrick Maguire, 1 f L. Casey, Silva, 1 Caraballo, 1 Dominguez, Poggio, Ocantos, 1 1 Vega, Adorno, . . . . 1 Melo, 1 C. Morales, . . . . — 1 Moll. — 1 Burinigo, . . . . 1 4 Aramburu, . . . S. LtagTtfit f I Name. J. Smith & Unzae, Mrs. Norris, .... Gahan bros., Diaz, family, Costa, Almera, family, Casales, Santaua, family, Kiesse, Penal va, Miranda, family, Alvarado, Gerda, family, Correa, Juarez, Lubo, J. Litardo, . . Romero, Ponce Leon, . . Echegaray, . . Ferreyra, Villa,' Zamudio, Luna, Papsdorf , Benitez, Maxwell, The partido is watered by the Arroyo Saladas which falls into the EiCB^ Satado, and by the Cafiadas of Navarro, Garzas, Tomasa, and San Lorenzo^ which feed the great lake of Navarro. The camps arc well suited for sheep, aud so low that they retain water even in tlia driest seasons ; some parts are much infested with «abrojo)) burr, but most of the partido is free from this nuisance. The foreign estancicros. are very wealthy, owning about one-fourth of the whole district, and the total Irish population may be set down at 1 ,000. The Rio Salado washes the southern camps of the partido, and the passage of this river is very dangerous, especially la f f 1 f f i i i I i f 1 1 I If 2 I T^AVAllRO, 105 winter, whea it overflows its ianks for leagues around : strangers must not attempt to cross it without a «vaqueauo» or guide. The lake of Navarro is also dangerous to ford : close to this lake is the estancia of Mrs. IVorris, whose house is fitted up with every comfort. Hard by is another valuable property, that of Mr. Gahau of Merlo.andhis brother, who resides in Ireland. Mrs. Kenny and John Maguire have their estancias in this neighbourhood, and they are intersected by the Canada d6 Navarro, while Patrick Maguire is between this stream and the Arroyo La Choza. The lands of John Smith and Unzue are half way between Navarro and the Rio Salado, and the large estancia of Don Andres Costa is situate on this river. The Almeyra and Diaz properties are a couple of leagues W. of Navarro: those of MoU, Lubo, and Cerda are in the Canada Rica, beyond Arroyo Saladas, Correa, Morales, Calderon, and Melo, are N.W. of Navarro, and the estancias of Saatana, Sejas, and Miranda are E. of the town ; that of Papsdorf adjoins the Norris estate, westward. The land is valued at $320,000 per square league; total valuation 19,000,000, against 13,000,000 in 1862. Contri- bttcion tax, $76,000. Stock returns— 2^,639 cows, 19,662 horses, 8,000 fine sheep, 1,035,030 mestiza sheep, 61,610 Creole sheep, 1,503 swine: being an average of 400 cows, 250 horses, 19,000 sheep to the square league. Population return! — 8,221 Argentines, 1,053 French, 313 English, 587 Italians, 882 Spaniards, 98 Germans, 41 others; total 11,195. There are 161 houses and 1,057 ranches, including 4 4 ptilperias : 5 alcaldes, 20 tenientes, and 14 police. Agriculture has made great progress, and we find some large grain farms: there are 122 chacras, with an aggregate of 6,000 acres under tillage. The village of Navarro is situate on the lake of the same name, and was first established, as a frontier outpost, in 1744. Although over a century old it hardly counts yet a thousand inhabitants, and the streets have an unfinished appearance. There are 69 rateable houses, the best being those of Aguilar, Bastarrica, Bildostegui, Bosso, Costa, Sotero, Serantes, Correa, Carrizo, Cagen, Espil, Frcdes, Garcia, Gorosito, Ibarra, Leonetti, Litardo, Luna, Lavega, Marinovich, Montovio, Olaso, Rios, Solar, Trejo, Varas, Vinales, and Samuel Wheeler, valued from $50,000 upwards. The branch railway from Merlo to Lobos will give increased importance to the partldo of Navarro : the estancierosof this district have offered the necessary land gratis in case the line may be made to touch at Navarro, but this would be out of the straight route. Two-thirds of the population of the town are Basques or Italians. The church is small but neat, and the Curate is Rev. Sebastian Perez. The Irish congregation is visited by Rev. Mr. Curran of Lobos. There are coaches daily to Luxan (ten leagues), and the journey 106 THE SOUTIi-WESTERN PARTIDOS. to Buenos Ayres is made in seven hours. Navarro boasts an inn, a club which is maintaiued by tlie leading neighbors, and state-schools attended by 56 boys and 50 girls. There are numerous well-stocked shops to supply the wants of the estancieros, and the business of the place is improving. The. Irish Racing Club of Navarro holds meets at stated periods, the principal members being the Gahans, Gaseys, and other estancieros : the last cup, value §4,000 was won by Mr. Gahan's «sebruno.» Navarro is distant 8 leagues from Mercedes, 1 1 from Chivilcoy, 5 from Lobos, and 7 from the Rio Salado. Justice of Peace. Don Felipe Diz ; Post-master, Don Daniel Ravelo ; Municipality, six members ; Municipal revenue, $150,000. Lobos. Situate 18 leagues S.W. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 62 square leagues, comprising 9' estancias. The partido is bounded on the N. by Las Heras, on the W. by Navarro, on the S. by the Rio Salado and Guardia Monte, and on the E. by Cafmelas. It is watered by the Arroyos Garzas, Tajamar, Toro, and Uncal, which fall into the lake of Lobos, two leagues S. of tiie tovfn. It is one of the most flourishing and important districts in the south, and chiefly settled by Irishmen, who own about one-tenth of the land. The camps are in general good, except in some places which are low and marshy, and others much infested with «abrojo.» Many Irish estancieros of the north made their beginning in this partido, and it has always been a favorite district for sheep. The arroyos are mostly of permanent water, and besides the lake of Lobos, there is a larger one, called Gubii-cubu and covering nearly a square league, close to the Urquiola cstancia. This estancia is mostly in the neighboring partido of Monte, and covers 9 square leagues, about midway between the towns of Lobos and Guardia Monte. The Cascallares territory occupies nearly all the lands from Lobos to the Rio Salado, and the estancias of Casavalle and the late Vice-President Paz are situate on the Arroyo Taj;unar. The Arevalo estancia has three lagoons, callad La • Rabona, Colis and Rios ; and the lands of Casey and Atucha, Geoghegan, and Varela are intersected by the Arro}0 de Garzas. A league north of the town was formerly a property of four leagues, belonging to Wright Bros., but this has now been marked out for chacras ; and in its vicinity we meet the estancias of John Lawler, the Murphys, Livingstone, and Zelis. Salada Chica, the property of Don Mariano Acosta, and the lands of Viilales and Casavalle, are on the Rio Salado. Terence Moore, Rivas, Ccpeda, and LOUOS. 107 Burgos are near the Cailada del Toro, and the Yillegas estancia is on the borders of Cauuelas. The partido is greatly over-stocked, the returns shewing 28,286 cows, 27,322 horses, 18,895 fine sheep, 1,957,258 raestiza sheep, 10,709 Creole sheep; being an average of 500 cows, 500 horses, and 36,000 sheep per square league. The land is valued at §200,000 to S'<00,000 per league. Total valuation 32,000,000, against 13,000,000 in 18G2. Gontribucion tax $128,000. Population— Argentines 12,812, Spaniards 1,242, English 916, Italians 926, French 320, Germans 62, various 131 : total 16,409. There are 352 houses and 4,064 ranches, including 100 pulperias: 5 alcaldes, 30 tenientes, 14 police, and 1,600 INational Guaids. Agriculture is makiug great progress: there are no fewer than 1,241 chacras, covering altogether nearly 40 acres of tillage. The approaches to Lobos are the prettiest of any town in the province, being a succession of farms, quintas, and plantations, a league in every direction, all highly cultivated. The town is large, well-built, and thriving, with a population of 5,000 souls ; it does a good trade in hides and wool, and there are some flour mills in the neighborhood. There is a line church in the plaza, attended by Rev. Jose Amoretti and the Rev. Mr Curran ; the latter is the Irish pastor, and has a congregation of 2,500 in this partido, besides the Irish settlers of Guardia Monte and Las Flores, who are also under his charge. There are fiftv good shops, some good inns, coffee-houses, billiard- rooms, a resident doctor and an apothecary, and 206 rateable houses : of these latter the best are those of Cascallares, Noguera, Caminos, Barrera, Bastarretche, Arevalo, Varela, Villafafie, Pincro, Portuso, Casavalle, Melendez, Zavala, Olaso, Zamudio, Velarde, Salinas, Solano, Rodriguez, and Suarez, aU valued over $100,000; there are also three English house-holders, Cornfoot, Wriglit, and Morgan; and two shops much frequented by English residents, viz., Terence Moore's, and Nandin Sons, the latter being the Standard agency. The works have been commenced of the branch.railway from Merlo (12 leagues), which will place Lobos within four hours' journey of Buenos Ayres : the cost of the line is estimated at £180,000 sterling, or £5,000 per mile. Lobos is distant six leagues from Cafiuelas, seven from Guardia Monte, and five from Rio Salado. It may be considered one of the prettiest and most thriving towns in the province It was founded in 1803 by an estanciero named Jose Salgado, who built a chapel to our Lady of Carmel on his land, for the accommodation of his neighbours, 141 in number, and in the following 3'ear Bishop Lue made it a parish, under the care of Rev. Garcia Miranda, There was an old fort called Lobos, 14 leagues further south. The present 108 THE SOUTH-WESTERN PARTIDOS. title of the town is San Salvador de Lobos. Justice of Peace, Don Jose Maria Villafafio ; Post-master, Don Juan M. Carranza ; Municipality, six members; Municipal revenue, ^300,000. The following are the principal estancias: — Name. Cascallares, family, Arevalo, do. Gutierrez, do. Casavalle, do. Ruiz, do. Burgos, do. Villa les, M. Acosta, .... Casey & Co., D. Livingstone, Villalva, Frias, Villegas, Villoido, Urquiola, Tuentes, Maldonado, . Gallo, Mrs. Cornfoot, Meoquin, Piiiero, M. Murphy, . . Colaso, family, Rivas, M. Geoghegan, Unzue, Zelis, Rojas, family, Arenillas, Cieza, S. Leagues . n 3f . 2| 2 2 . H . n 2 li li 1^ H 1 Name. Acevedo family, Rodriguez, family, James Murphy, Ter. Moore, John Lawler, Villasante, .... Harilaos .... Ramirez, .... Dias, .... Baca, family. Cepeda, family, Almaraz, Ponce, Leiva, Fredes, Guerrero, Marcos Paz, . Riso, Resales, Fernandez, . Guerra, J. Acosta, Varela, family, Patrick O'Neill, Hernandez, . Ordonez, Torres, Gallegos, Solano, Atencio, S. Leagues. i i 4, f i I i Gvnrdia Monte. Situate 19 leagues S.S.W. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 7 4 square leagues, and comprises 97 estancias, of which the principal are : — GUARDIA MOSTE. 109 Name. Juan Terrero, S. Leagues. 15 Name. iSieves .... S. Leagues Frederick Terrero, 3 Basualdo i Videla Dorna, .... lU Bernard Killimed, ^ Urquiola, David Dillon, La Rosa, .... 8 .... 2i 2 M. Hogan, Galindez, Huertas, i i i M. Russell, Farias, li 1 James Craig, Cobos, i Rojas, family, Ferreyra, do. li 1 Tim. Killimed, Fredes, i Lopez, do. W.xM'Clyraont, .... li n Garcia, .... Edward Moran, W. P. Boyd, • Fras. Brady, I .... 1 M'Loughlin, aiuldowney, .... * i 'Rosas, .... 1 Egaua, i Ruiz, family. 1 Galvan, .... f Gonsalez, family. f Marzano, .... i Monies, David Lyall, 1 -1 Mr. Kenny, .... Calderon i i Espinosa, family, Gomez, Aniarillo, family, .... H 1 Aguirre, .... Zelarayan, .... Cordoba, .... 1 * John Malcolm, Campos, .... John White, .... Villalba, .... i i i i Mosquera, .... P. J. Guillen, P. Martin, ... The partido is bounded on the N. by Cafiuelas and Lobos, on the W. and S. by the Rio Salado, and on the E. by "Ranchos. It derives its name from the number of wmontes)) or plantations seen on all sides, and is also well watered by the Rio Salado and numerous large lagoons. The camps yield excellent pasture for sheep, but in some places the poisonous «romerilla» is found, which, however, the sheep of these estancias will not eat. Water is found at a short depth, and the lagoons of Encadenadas, Monte, Perdices, Juncal, Maypu, and Tabla, never run dry even in the hottest seasons. More than half the partido is in the hands of three families ; the Terreros, Urquiolas, and Videla Dorna's, and the foreign estancieros own about one- sivth. The lands of Videla Dorna stretch eastward from the town of Guardia Monte, as far as John Hannah's estancia, near Ranches : they also extend southward to the Desplayada lagoon on the Rio Salado. The 1 10 THE SOUTH-WESTERN PARTIDOS. Terrero estate occupies the whole country S. E. of the Encadenadas lakes, as far as the Salado. Urquiola's estaucia is N.W. of Guardia Monte, on the borders of Lobos; David Dillon and P. Martin are in the midst of the lakes; Russell and M'Cijmont are on the Arroyo Totoral, north of the town, and the smaller estancias of Killimed and Craig are in the same direction. Mr. Boyd's place of Alto Redondo is two leagues N.E. of the town, just before reaching the estancias of Farias and La Rosa. The lands of Lopez, Gomez, and Ferreyra lie S.W of the town reaching to the Salado ; those of Hogan, Nieves, and Rodriguez are to the rS.W. ; and those of White and Galvaa on the borders of Canuelas. The number of our countrymen in this partido exceeds 1,000, and those of them who belong to the Irish congregation are visited by Rev. James Curran from Lobos. The stock returns are — 30,864 cows, 24,705 horses, 12,042 fine sheep, 1,050,221 mestiza sheep, and 8,200 creole sheep ;; being an average of 400 cows, 300 horses, and 15,000 sheep per square league. The land is valued at $500,000 per league. Total valuation 30,000,000, against 17,000,000 in 1862. Gontribucion tax, §120,000. Population returns — 3,427 Argen- tines, 366 English, 216 French, 130 Italians, 198 Spaniards, 17 Germans, 77 various, and 1 Indian; total, 4,432. There are 73 houses and 1,124 ranchos, including 36 pulperias ; 6 Alciildes, 2V tenientes, 14 police, and 512 National Guards. It was in this partido that Rosas passed his early years, breaking-iu wild horses on the estancia now belonging to Mr. Reid. Ihe Gauchos of ths district have always been reputed lawless, but there has been no outrage within the past year. Agriculture is increasing, and there arc about 20,000 acres under tillage : the principal chacras are — Cuadras. 30 90 .... 60 There is a good deal of wheat, maize, clover, and vegetables raised, principally in the vicinity of the town. There are 162 chacras in the district, eighty of these have already been sold, sixty-seven are rented, and the remaining fifteen are yet vacant. These chacras are sold by the Municipality at the rate of ^200 per cuadra (say £50 sterling for 140 acres, for ever) ; they are situate close to the village, on the north and west. Guardia del Monte is a small village of 770 inhabitants, with a churchy school, prison, twenty-five shops, and sixty-eight rateable houses : of these latter the best belong to Lecea, Larosa, Bastro, Calderon, Mosquera, Arata, Terrero, San Miguel, Sosa, Mencequez, Pinel, Martinez, and Obrego, valued Name. Cuadras. Name. Mr. K'^nny, .... 210 J. Giraldez, Michael Furlong, 30 Peter Craig, William Lookup, 30 M. Minondo, GUARDIA MO>'TE. 1 I I from §50,000 up^vards. The place is dedicated to St. Michael, and was founded in 1744, when the southern frontier line was dra^Yn from Chascomus to Monte, Navarro, and Luxan. The principal shop-keeper is Don Feliciano Lecea, mIio is also agent for the Standard. The new church cost $800,000, which was defrayed partly by the Municipality and partly by subscription, the Provincial Government giving $80;000 ; among the most liberal subscribers were the Scotch and other Protestant residents. The new school-house cost $300,000, the Government also giving $80,000. It is proposed to build a priest's house, Municipal hall, «S:c., to improve the look of the village, which is exceedingly dreary and wild : the houses are very scattered, and the place has made little progress for 125 years. The state-school is attended by 45 girls and 3 i boys, and there is a private school at which 9.3 females are educated. Guardia del Monte is distant leagues from Ranchos, 1 1 from Jeppener Station, 3 from the nearest point of the Salado, and 6 from Terrero's bridge over the same river. Justice of Peace, Dr. Manuel Ocantos ; Post-master, Don Feliciano Lecea ; Curate, Rev. Joaquin Viera ; Municipality, six members; Municipal revenue, $500,000. Saladillo. Situate 33 leagues S.W. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 200 square leagues, a large portion of which is public land. This is a frontier partido, extending S.W. from the Arroyo Saladillo to the Indian territory, it is bounded on the N. by the Saladillo, on the W. by 25 de Mayo and the Indian country, on the S. by the Arroyo Las Flores, and on the E. by the lakes of the Rio Salado, which are formed by the confluence of the Saladillo and Las Flores. The central districts of the partido are w atered by the rivers above-mentioned, and on the frontier side we find Lakes Potrillo, Verdosa and Yallimanca, besides the arroyos which feed same, and numberless small lagoons. Ten years ago it was completely Indian territory, and although still much exposed to inroads of the savages ihe .partido is making some progress : the total valuation in 1862 was only 6,000,000, now it exceeds 13,000,000 There are few foreign estancieros, yet the number of our countrymen engaged in sheep and cattle mostly on rented land, is estiraatedat 500. The largest estancias is that of Messrs. Toledo, Galindez, and Atucha, between the Canada del Vigilante and a place called Tres Bonetes on the Las Flores river. The lands of Decoud and Eedoya also cover a large tract of country, lying between the Laguna Los Amigos and the above-named river. Further 112 THE SOUTH-WESTERN PARTIDOS. east is the Atucha estancia, tiear Lake Cardalito, and adjoining this is the Estancia Argentina with six small lagoons. El Paraiso is the property of Martin Hardoy, which reaches north to the Saladillo, and has also several lagoons. La Fortuna is th^ name of Cazon's estancia, and this as well as Varcla's and Barrera's lie between the village and river of Saladillo ; Bazan and Butler are nearer to the village. Rodriguez is situate on LakePotrillo, and southward are the lands of Aguilera, Segundo, Villafafie, Zapiola, and Pereyra, till reaching the river Las Flores. The Carranza estancia extends along the Arroyo Pantanoso, in direction of the frontier. About seven leagues S.W. of the village of Saladillo is Fort Arevalo, and in its vicinity are the estanciasof Leman, Estanel, Albert, Pifiero, and Roberts. Between the fort and the present frontier we meet the following settlers — Mendez, Serantes, and Acosta. A league beyond the last named estancia is Fort Vallimanca, close to the lagoon of the same name : it is on the land of Don Mariano Unzue. The principal cstancias are — Name. S. League^. Name. S. Leagues. Toledo, .... m Sra. Castro, 6 M. Hardoy, .... 7f Pereyra, .... I J. Bedoya, 6 Villafafie, 1 J. Cazon, .... 6 L. Albert, .... 6 A. Cascallares, I Mendez, .... H Ferreyra, family, 1 i Frias, .... H Figueroa, .... i Caldevia, .... 3 Barrera, .... ... 10 Atucha, family, 7 Justo, 6 Hernandez, .... 1 Carranza, family, 12 M.V.Paz, 1 Segundo, .... I M. Cascallares, 1 Bazan, .... 1 Mena, .... I P. Roberts, .... ... 3i J.M.Paz, i Estauel, .... 1 Refort, li John Connor, 3 Rodriguez, family, H T. Varela, ... 2f Unzue, family, . 4 Thomae Cormack, 2 Sra Acosta, .... 6 Casavalle, .... 2 Zapiola, .... I Decoud&Go., ... Si Leman, .... I Bojas, .... 1 Piiiero, .... ... n Bosales, .... i Serantes, .... . . . 3.i Mosqueira, .... i Arenilla, .... 1 Butler, .... ... H «La Argentina,)) 3 Aguilera, .... 5 SALA.DILLO. 113 The frontier runs southward from this fort eight leagues east-south- east to Fort Estoraba, beyond the river Las Flores, and tbence due south seven leagues, to Fort Estomba, within a league of the new town of Tapalquen. Tlie frontier runs N. from Fort Yallimanc^i, seven leagues, to Fort Cruz de Gucrra, which is eight leagues S.W. of the town of 25 de Mayo, and nearly the same distance S.E. of Nueve de Julio. The only estancias outside the frontier of Saladillo are those of Castro, Justo, Caldeira, and John Connor : our countrMnan is in the heart of the Indian territory, being eighteen leagues S.W. of the village of Saladillo, and five beyond Fort Valliaianca. This partido is about twenty-five leagues long, from the Salado to the desert, and eight leagues wide from the Arroyo Saladillo to Las Fiojes river. The retiirns of stock are — 177,402 cows, 28,372 horses, 5, 124 fine sheep, 1,002,478 mestiza sheep, 19,812 creole sheep, and 1,848 pigs; being an average of 900 cows, 150 horses, and 5,000 sheep per square league. The land is valued at § 1 60,000 to $240,000 per league. Contribucion tax, $52,000. Population — 4,620 Argentines, 330 Spaniards, 247 English, 241 French, 244 Italians, 18 Germans, 4 Indians, 42 various; total, 5,746. There are 18 houses and 898 ranches, including 18 pulperias: 6 alcaldes, 24 tenientes, 14 police, and 1,180 >'ational Guards. The new town of Saladillo as yet counts only twenty houses, the best of which are those of Lese and -\tusar, valued at $40,000 each. The place is in its infancy, and the state school has not yet been established ; neither is t-here any municipality, although the municipal revenue amounts to 3220,000. A space of four square leagues around the town has been marked out for chacras, which will probably be ceded gratis to settlers. The Justice of Peace is Don Maximo Cabral, w ho also acts as postmaster ; Curate, Rev. Marcial Elia. Close to the town are two lagoons, called Las Ovejas and Bustamante. The department takes its name from the Arroyo Saladillo, which rises near the frontier, at Lake Potrillo, and falls into the Rio Salado, after a course of nearly thirty leagues eastward. Saladillo is 10 leagues S. of the Rio Salado, 8 S.E. of 25 de Mayo, 13 iV.W. of the town of Las Flores, 16 :N. of Tapalquen, and 14 N.E. of Fort Yallimanca. Las Flores. This district, which is 190 square leagues in extent, is divided from Raochos and Guardia del Monte by the River Salado ; the Arroyo de las 114 THE SOUTH-WESTERN PARTIDOS. Flores bounds it on the JS.W., and divides it from the district of Saladillo ; the arroyos Azul and Gualichu hound it on the S.E., dividing it from the district of Tlauch ; on the S.W. it is bounded by the districts of Azul and Tapalquen. The town was founded in 1857, and laid out on the same plan as Chivilcoy, the streets are thirty yards wide. The present population of the town is estimated at 2,300, that of the whole district is about 9,000. 1 ,.330 foreigners reside here, of these, 150 are British subjects, 72 Germans, 8 Americans, 308 Frenchmen, 340 Italians. 330 Spaniards, and 122 from other countries. Tlie town is situated 8 leagues outside the river Salado, 38 leagues from Buenos Ayres, and 21 leagues from Jeppener station, on the Southern Bailway. A splendid bridge, probably one of the best in the country, spans the river Salado in this district. A branch of the Southern Railway from Jeppener station to this bridge has been much talked of. There is a splendid circular race course, in tlie suburbs, sixteen squares (2,400 yards) in circumference ; this race-course has a treble fence of wire and posts, a stand for tlie stewards, and a straiglit course, five squares long, laid out across the field for those w ho prefer trying the mettle of their steeds in a straight line. There are two schools, attended by sixty boys and fifty gjrls. The church is small, but a new one is about to be built, which will cost close on $1,000,000 : one of our countrymen, Mr. Kelly, is member and secretary of the building committee, and Mr. Hunt is the architect. The cemetery is one of the largest and neatest in the country districts. Las Flores lias one judge, six municipal members, one notary public, six alcaldes, thirty tenientes, one constable of police, and fourteen policemen. There are twenty extensive dry goods and gf ocery Istores iii the town, one very good hote^ three second class hotels, one Tery extensive hardware store, one timber yard, two flour mills, three bakers, two confectioners' shops, two barbers' shop^, six 'carpenters' shops, two blacksmiths' shops, four brick-kilns, fourteen bricklayers, one silversmith, one saddler, four tailor shops, two painters, nine bootmakers' shops, five butchers' shopS; two tinsmiths, one post-office. A mail coach plies between Las Flores and Buenos Ayres every third day, passing through Guardia del Monte, Cafiuelas, and Moron on the western route, and by Terrero's bridge to Jeppener station on the southern route. The coach ta Tapalquen calls at Las Flores in transit. The only qualified medical practitioner and apothecary in the district is Mr. D. C.Kelly. The quintas and chacras that surround the town are all surveyed ; the chacras consist of twenty-five squares of ground, about 100 acres, and LAS FLORKS. 115 may be purchased out and out for about 7$. sterling per acre.- There are 20 i estancias in the district — these vary ia size from half a league to ten leagues. The principal foreign estate owners in the district are : — Messrs. White, Ptobsonj D. C. Kelly, Manson, Gebbie, Mason, Beckford, Brown, Foster, Luitcher, Seeber, Muller, Schmarsow, and Wehmayer. Mr. Solanet has a graseria and a press for baling wool on his establishment. Mr. Musgrave has also a graseria, and an apparatus to dip sheep so as to prevent or cure scab. Mr. Gebbie and Mr. Shannon are about putting up boilers to render down fat sheep. Mr. Chas has an extensivee stablishiueut, wherein he breeds rams. The Messrs. Amadeo, Van Praet, Elizalde, Ramirez, Paz, Rojas, Galindez, and Portuguez, are owners of extensive estates in this district. The official returns of property are : — Name. Ramirez, family M.V.Paz, ... t> Le;i<5ue8. .... 14 4 Name. S. Leagues. Baranda, family, .... 1^ G. Manson, .... .... 1 Van Praet, . . . Elizalde, 6| 3 Chaves, family, Otero, 1 H. Solanet, . . . 3i Dantas, .... .... i Rosas, family, Chas, 7 H Lopez, .... Jlanso, .... i i Peredo, H Tudury, 4- Rojas, Aguilera, Amadeo, Jas. White, . . . Bedova, Galiudez, 3 1^ 3^ 2 2 2 Aniarillo, .... .... AVehmayer, San Miguel, * Marquez, family, .... Pedrosa, .... .... Gorchs, 1 Cascallares, . . . 1 Tobias Enz, .... .... Angenelo, . . . 1 Barcelo, Acosta, family, J. BroAvn, . . . li 1 C. Luitcher, Utrero , .... ii F. Foster, . . . . i Zelarayan, .... Benavidez, . . . i Santiilan, 13- Domecq, Gallardo, i i J. Portugues, Dominguez, .... Gutierrez, . . . . i Landavaro, .... Cabo, Sosa, family, .... J 1 Martinez, family, 1 Seebers, .... i D. C. Kelly !i , . . . .... Fernandez, family 1 i IIG THE -SOUTH-WESTERN FARTIDOS. Name. S. Leagues. Name. S. League? Aucina, .... i Robinson, .... 1 Fonda, .... .... • i Brunet, f Farias, ^ B. Lerdou, 1 «Nueve de Julio,)) 1 if F. Lecea, 1 Gebbie Bros., 1 Coronel, family, I C. Solanct 1 Angli, i Fredes, .... li Lozano, i Villa, 1 Almada, .... i Sosa, family, I E.spouda, i • • • • ^ Valladares, .... .... 2 Preciado, 1 Bareda, .... 1 Grais, X .... .J .Alvarez, .... 1 Luduefia, • . . . . 1 .... y Boinero, family, H • Fuentes, .... i ,fohu Belford, 1 Miranda, ^ Ortiz, .... n M. Schmarsow, i Arauz, famih, H Gadea, .... i Diaz, .... — 1 Edward Muller, i r The land is valued at $150,000 to $260,000 per square league. Tota\ valuation 38,000,000, against 13,000,000 in 1862. This partido is well suited for beginners about to embark in sheep-farming. The present value of good land is $'iOO,000 per square league : all the grazing land of the district is in private hands, with the exception of some few small lots of marshy ground. The district is stocked with 128,700 head of black cattle, 18,000 mares and horses, 210 mules and asses, close on 2,000,000 sheep, and 1,280 pigs, being an average of 600 cows, 250 hors:'s, and 10.000 sheep per square league. There are 1,630 houses in the town and district. There were 560 carts registered during the year; it is probable there are another hundred not registered. The Municipal income is about $200,000 per annum. There were 112 persons married (luring the past year, and 460 cliildren baptized The annual average mortality is about 150; 35 per cent, of these arc infants under one year, Avhich may be attributed to bad nursing ; 1 \ per cent, of the children bc'twecn the ages of one and three also perish ; this shows that nearly 50 per cent, of the entire mortality takes place in children under three years of age. While Mr. Powell, the Protestant clergyman, resided in this couutrv he occasionally officiated in the district; Mr. Gebbie, the Presby- terian clergyman, pays the district an occasional visit. The number of wguias)) (permits) to export fat stock and other produce from Las Flores amounted to 650 during the past year. Contribuciou tax, $160,000. .r-oari: TAPALQUEN. 11/ "We recommend strangers who visit this partido to call upon Mr. Daiiie C. Kellv who resides in the town, and who is always ready and w illing to afford every usefal information about the place. The lands are good, oj)en, and cheap, and many chances offering in this district, not to be found elsewhere. Las Flores is the head or presidential town of an electoral section, com- posed of five districts or partidos. The commander, major, and staff of the 16th cavalry regiment reside in this town. The Porvenir Life Insurance Company has an agency in Las Flores, the Justice of Peace, Parish Priest, and many others have taken out policies; Mr. D. C. Kelly is agent to this company, he is also agent to the Statulard, Tribuna, and Boletin Oficlnl newspapers. Justice of Peace, Don Manuel V. Paz ; Postmaster, Don Manuel W. Ceballos; Curate, Rev, Pedro Ferraris. Tapalquen. A bio f Situate 48 leagues S.W. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 200 square leagues, and compr Name. Balcarce, J.B.Peila, ... Lezama, Pereyra, Sosa, Jurado, family, Patiilo, Ayrala, >'avarro, Barrionovo, . . . Barrere, Urbina, Goya, Bua, Gonsalez, Labarrudo, . . . Carrizo, ses tl e following estancias : — S. Leagneis. w 12 3 4. 6 3 2 1 1 Name. S. Leagues Palaeio, li Dantiarg, S. Rosas, t 6 Spigno, 6 Larroy, 3 V. Casares, ... 9| Belem & Co., ... 2i Bedoya, 4 J. Portugues, 11 Posse, 3 Belgrano, family, U P. Sheridan, 13 M. Ruiz, .... ... 5 Ricabarra, family, 5 Silva, do. ... 20 Zabala, do. li This partido is as yet only half reclaimed from the Indians, who still form 118 THE SOUTH-VVESTERIS PARTIDOS. oae-fourth of the population. It extends about twenty-six leagues in length, from the borders of Flores on the N.E.to the Sierra deQuillalanquen on the S.W., and is about eight leagues wide, from the Las Floret river to the borders of Azul. IVearly one-half the partido is outside the frontier line, which runs through the new town of Tapalquen, southwards eighteen leagues to Fort Perdido, in the hills beyond Azul, and northwards to Fort Esperanza, on the River Las Flores. The partido takes its name from tlie Arroyo de Tapalquen, which traverses almost the whole district and is lost in the desert : the word is of Indian origin, as are all of similar termination given to the lakes and hills of the south. Sheridan's estancia is one of the largest, and adjoins Fort Esperanza, on the River Las Flores. The lands of Portugues, Bedoya, Goya, and Posse are eastward, on the borders of Las Flores partido. San Nicolas is the name of Pefia's large possessions, which comprise, moreover, two large lagoons, called Zancas and Plumagujers. The estmcia of Casares is at Lake Las Toscas, four leagues south of Sheridan's. On the frontier between Fort Esperanza and Tapalquen arc settled Ruiz, Jurado, Balcarce, and Belen. The Balcarce territory is over nx leagues long, and comprises Fort Estomba and the site marked out for the new town of Tapalquen. The old Indian settlement called Tapera de Tapalquen was situate four leagues further south, on the arroyo of same name, in the midst of the immense territory now belonging to the heirs of Juan M. Silva, which covers 200 square miles and is studded with lagoons : these lands are outside Fort Pereda in the department of Azul. The lands of Rosas, Ricabarra, Barrionovo, and Spigno are within a radius of five leagues from Fort Estomba; but further out are Barrere, Larroy, and Belgrano, who are only five leagues inside the hill range or Sierra of Quillalanquen : this range is fourteen leagues S.W. of Tapalquen, and Sixty-two S.W. of Buenos Ayres city. The partido has made little progress, owing to the dread of Indians. The lands inside of the frontier are valued at $100,000 to $140,000 per square league, but those of Balcarce and others out outside settlers are assessed only at §60,000 per league. The returns of stock are— 163,386 cows, 16,431 horses, 260,086 mestiza sheep, 49,220 Creole sheep, and 1,180 pigs ; being an average of 800 cows, 80 horses, aud 1300 sheep per square league. Land valuation 6,000,000, against 3,000,000 in 1862. Contribuciou tax, §24,000. Population— 1,506 Argentines, 535 Indians, 3 i Spaniards, 21 Italians, 10 French, 6 English, 5 Germans, 26 various ; total, 2,1 43. There are 8 houses and 320 ranchos, including 11 pulperias : 6 alcaldes, 2i tenicntes, 12 police, and 350 JNational Guards. TAPALQUEN. 119 The new town of Tapalquen counts as yet only two shops and a few houses: it is situate on the Arroyo Tapalquen, about a league S.E. of Fort Estomba, 9 leagues N. of Azul, 17 S.W. of Las Flores, 16 S. of Saladillo, and 20 S. of 25 de Mayo. It is in the straight line from Buenos Ayres to Bahia Blauca, and may almost be considered as half-way, being 67 leagues N.E. of pahia Blanca. As yet there are no municipality, church, or schools in the partido. Some lots have been devoted for chacras, in an area of four square leagues around the new town ; there are forty-five chacras under cultivation. Justice of Peace, Don Jose M. Jurado, who also acts as postmaster. 120 THE SOtiTf^ER^' PARTIDOS. CHAP. YIII. SOUTHERN PARTIDOS. BARRACAS TO DOLORES. South Barracas. Situate one league south of Buenos Ayres, being separated from the city by the Arroyo de Riachuelo, has an area of four square leagues, mostly occupied by saladeros, quintas and chacras, as already described in pages 92—98 of Section B. The saladeros are as follows : — Name. Value. Name. Value. J. Panthou, . . . . $600,000 Senillosa's heirs, .. S550,000 Berizo (Lezica's), . . . . 450,000 Soler, .... . . 400,000 Sra. Senillosa, . . . . 500,000 Cambaceres, .. 1,100,000 Santamaria & Llambi, 1,200,000 Herrera &Baudriz, . . . . 750,000 Saavedra & Armstrong, 600,000 Mufioa, .... . . 650,000 Anderson, .... . . . . 367,000 Cobo, .... . . 300,000 The slaughter for the present season (1869) is estimated at 500,000 oxen and mares, exclusive of sheep. The wages paid last year to saladero peons exceeded % 1 2,000,000, say £ 1 00,000 sterling. Most of the inliabitants are engaged in this business, and they are chiefly Basques or Italians. SOUTH BARRACAS. {2( • !■; '-t-'J ' ; ■ ■ ■ ' ■' Tliefe are 211 cliacras, covering 13,000 acres of tillage. The priacipal t'hacras and quintas are those of — Gimenez, Demarchi, Ugalde, Pifiero, ^'uflez, Torres, Palos, Ortiz, Sanders, Solier, Mackiulaj, Munita, Carhout* Ramirez, Fernandez, Canadi, Liuatz, Suarez, Uzmau, Drover, Sansat, Fecher,^Nuuez, Castro, Luton, and Zuuiga, all valued over $100,000. .The partido is bounded on the N. and W. by the Riachuelo, otherwise called the Rio de Matanzas, on the S. by the Lomas de Zamora, and on the E. by the River Plate. The land is generally low and swampy, but produces good meadow crops. There are no estancias ; the farming stock is set down at — 2,787 cows, 1,958 horses, 168 fine sheep, 2,273 mestiza sheep, 1,511 Creole sheep, and 2,023 pigs. Population— i, 930 .Argentines, 794 French, 657 Spaniards, 622 Italians, 47 Germans, 37 English, 163 various : total 7,250. There are 207 houses and 392 ranches : 5 alcaldes, 37 tenientes, 8 police, .and 372 ISational Guards. Property valuation 29,000,000, against 6,000,000 in I8G2; Contribucion tax, §116,000. Municipal revenue, $142,000. Rarracas is a busy and flourishing village of 5,000 inhabitants, Avith a very fine church, state-schools, and 150 shops and houses. There are 280 carts in constant traffic. There ^re twelve private schools, at which 418 children are educated, besides 1 10 at the state-schools. In last year there were 51 marriages, 436 baptisms, and 333 burials; The village is connected with town by the Roca and Southern Railways, which run twenty-eight trains daily, each way. The Artesian Well, railway-bridge, &c. have been already noticed in Section R. Justice of Peace, Don Juan M. Nunez \ Curate, Rev. Sebastian Lozano ; Post-master, Don Manuel Esteves. Lomas de Zamora. Situate three leagues south of Ruenos Ayres,has an area of eleven square leagues, and comprises seventeen estancias and eighty-one chacras : of the former the principal are — S. Leagues. 1 .... .... g 1 .... .... ^ .... .... ^ Fair's estaucia at Monte Grande is a very fine establishment, in the best English style; all the lands have been fenced in, at enoHuous expense, and a large portion is now dedicated to agriculture. This place is of historic interest in the annals of our industrv, for it was here that Mr. Robeitsoa Same. S. Leagues. Name. John Fair, .... If Acosta, Ortega, family, 2 Correa, Rursaco, .... .... i Obligado, 122 THE SOUTHERN PARTIDOS. Started his Scotch colony, ia 1825, the colony embracing also the adjacent estate of Santa Catalina. Most of the leading Scotch estancieros and capitalists of the present day began life here in the honqp:able but humble occupation of ploughmen and farm-servants, and iilthough the enterprise Avas unsuccessful as regards its originator, it is gratifying to know that Robertson's colonists were an immense gain to the country, and their names are now identified with the industry, wealth, and advancement 'of Buenos Ayres. The estate subsequently passed into the hands of the present enterprising owner, who pays much attention to refining the breed of horses, cattle, and sheep. The estancia is managed by Mr Strangers coming to the country often pay this place a visit The house is surrounded by a large plantation or «monte,)) which gives its name to the estate. The land alone is assessed by Government at £10,000 sterling, and the whole property represents a large amount of invested capital. Mr. Tair projected a branch railway hither from Las Lomas Station, but it has not been carried out. The chacra of Santa Catalina, belonging to Mr. Bookey, is unrivalled in the Biver Plate for its lawns, gardens, and plantations : it covers 206 cuadras or 900 acres, and formed the residence of Mr. Bobertson, the gardens and plantations having been laid out by Mr. Tweedie, who began life as landscape gardener to a nobleman in Scotland, and died a few years ago a respected merchant of Buenos Ayres. A few words about Robertson's colonists may here be interesting. In 1825 the Government of Buenos Ayres, being anxious to introduce habits of industry into the country, made arrangements for two Scotch colonies ; Mr. Beaumont was to establish one in Entre Bios, Mr. John Parish Bobertson a second at 3Ionte Grande. The first, on arrival, found that the land promised them could not be obtained, so they had recourse to their individual abilities to make a living in the new country. The second began favorably at Monte Grande, and the best methods of Scotch farming were soon seen in full play on the pampas ; several handicrafts were also successfully carried on, and the women raised milk, butter, cheese, and eggs in large quantities, although the use of milk and butter was then unknown in Buenos Ayres The spiritual wants of the colonists were attended to by the late talented Bev. Dr. Brown ; and all went well till the Brazilian war broke out. The currency of Buenos Ayres became depreciated, disputes arose between the colonists and Mr. Robertson, the establishment was broken up, many bright hopes were dispelled, and Mr. Bobertson was ruined. It is said that he had expended X30,000 alone on the mansion-house and ornamental plantations of Santa Catalina : these woods contain over 2,000,000 trees, principally acacia, LOMAS ZAMORA 123 paradise, peach, espinillo, tSrc, and the visitor will also find some friends of childhood in the hawthorn, oak, beech, hollv, aspen, elm, and ivv, which are nowhere else to be seen in South America. The ScDtch colonists did not suffer themselves to be cast down by their reverses, but steadily turned their attention to the business of life : some of them came into town, and, after years of hard labor, succeeded in making handsome fortunes; the rest settled down to rural pursuits and became in a short time owners of great tracts of laud and countless flocks and herds. Dr. Brown resolved also to stand by his countrymen : he took an apartment in the city to serve as a chapel, and added to his slender income by teaching. Steps were soon taken to raise funds for building a church, and Dr. Brown was sent to England to seek aid from the Government : in this he was so successful that an Act of Parliament was passed {6th George IV.), giving for the support of English and Scotch churches abroad a sum equivalent to that subscribed by the local residents, and this arrangement is still in force. South of Santa Catalina is the Ortega estancia, and eastward of the latter is the Bursaco property, mostly under Indian corn ; it is traversed by the Southern railway, and has over a thousand acres richly cultivated. The lands of Correa are nearer to the village of Las Lomas. Many of the chacras are of great extent, and all are covered with rich corn-fields or meadow-farms, to the extent of 20^000 acres : the principal are — Name. Cuadras. Name. Cuadras Bell 203 Zuuiga, 100 Avellaneda, 135 Lanoaco, 100 Gonsalez, 120 Mrs. Kidd, 40 Foutriel, 120 Plans, family, . . . 142 Torres, 100 Bay 128 George Temperley, 54 Avila, 123 Correa, .... 106 Araendebun, . . . 111 Brun, . . . • IH Ferben, 106 Lanus, .... 140 H. Pringles, . . . 60 Of these the finest certainly is Mr. Temperley 's, about half a mile beyond the Lomas station, close to the line of railw ay. The house and grounds are exceedingly tpsteful, forming one of the prettiest suburban residences about town : the property has been much enhanced in value by the Southern railway passing through it, and Mr. Temperley has sold numerous lots to English and American merchants who are establishing country-houses here. On the opposite side of the railway is Mr. Livingston's charming place, surrounded by fruit and flower gardens. AHA THE SOUTHERN PARTIDOS. Nearer to tlie village are the properties of Green, Drabble, Grigj^:, tfec. East of the railway, in the midst of shady avenues and thickets is Mrs. Kidd^s family hotel, an excellent house, where the traveller or invalid may pass a week very pleasantly, with all the comforts of an English home, and free from the bustle of the city. Messrs. Henry, Makern, and others have recently purchased, and a new English hotel has been started. The village of La Paz, more generally known as «Las Lomas,)> is situated on a rising ground which commands a view of the city : the air is peculiarly fresh and bracing, and tlie locality reputed the most healthy about town. The village is in its infancy, having only three shops and a dozen houses around the church : the latter is a ver}"^ handsome structure, and the vista on every side is lost in green lanes and pretty quintas. There is a good fonda near the station. The state school is attended by 50 boys and 35 girls. Not far from the church there is a country-house, recently built by Marshall of Barracas. A couple of miles nearer town is the quinta of Don Anacarsis Lanuz, with a fme resideace and plantations of lofty poplars: the railway has made a station hard by. The stock returns of the partido are — 3,526 cows, 1,967 horses, 12,951 fme sheep, 62,140 mestiza sheep, being an average of 500 cows, 300 horses, and 11,000 sheep to the square league. Population— 803 Argentines, 155 French, 117 Italians, 47 English, 41 Spaniards, 38 Germans, 1 Indian, 53 various — total 1,255. There are 89 houses and 200 ranchos, including 16 pulperias. There are 4 alcaldes, 16 tenientes, and 10 police. The land is mostly valued at $1,000 to $1,500 per cuadra. Total valuation $16,000,000, against $3,000,000 in 1862; Contribucion tax, $64,000. Municipality, four members; municipal revenue, $138,000. Justice of Peace, Don Victorio Grigera ; Postmaster, Don Gregorio Larios. Lomas de Zamora is 2 leagues S. of Barracas, 2 W. of Quilmes, 4 S.E. of Moron, 9 N.E. of Canuelas, 6 N. of San Vicente, and 9 5.W. of Ensenada. Sail Vicente. Situate ten leagues south of Buenos Ayres, has an area of" fifty-six squa e leagues, and comprises 74 estancias and 123 chacras. This partido was one of the first Avherein sheep -farming was experimented in Buenos Ayres, and fully half its extent is owned by foreigners. It is very thickly settled with English and Germans, who number over a thousand, and hold some of the finest estancias in the country. The lands are generally very low, but the grass is considered SAN VICENTE. 125 good for fattening sheep. The principal ^vater-courses are the affluents of Samborombon, and there are some large lagoons in the neighbourhood of the village of San Vicente. The partido is bounded on the N. by Quilmes and the Lomas, on the W. by Cafiuelas, and on the S. by Ranchos, and on the E. by Ensenada and Magdalena. The principal estancias are Name. S George Bell, Harrattf Lopez Seco, Udaquiola, . Saenz Pefia, Rodriguez, P. Diaz, Avila, Quinteros, Casco, family, Sanchez, Diaz Velez, Abascal, Gomez, Barragan , famil Bard a, W. M'Gaw, N. ?{elson, Lopez, C.Galvan, Robinson, Llanos, family, Bursa CO, IN. Buchanan, Ferrari, Wilkie, Merlo, family, CasimirSmvth, Cambaceres, Avellaneda, Pardo, Leagues. 2 If H H 91 2 s n Name. S. Alvarez, family, James Bell, Leagues i i George M'Farquhar, Valdes, .... i William Corrales, I Acosta, 1 4 Gutierrez, .... . . . . 1 Quiroga, Peralta, i f D. Kenny, i Faulkes, n Mrs. Williams, 1 Ed. Freers, 1 Donselaar, family, • i Mrs. Daly, . f Avalos, .... . f Villoldo, family. . i John Glew, .... i Godoy, family, .... Gonsalez, .... i JL 4 Caceres, .... . . . . i Campos, family, N. Jordan, .... i George Temper ley, G. Fillan, Aguilera, .... i Arce, i Ferguson Bros., 1 Carabajal, Leon, Gowland, 1 The Harratt estancia is another first-c^ass establishment, the late Mr. Harratt having been one of the first (a'ong with Peter Sheridan) to devote 126 THE SOUTHERN PARTIDOS. his attention to the importation of prize sheep from Europe for the refmement of the breed in this country : Harratt's merinos are considered some of the finest and best, and the stranjier cannot do better than to pay a visit to this famed ((cabafia.)) On this estancia there is a good wayside hotel known as Sutton's, where comfortable quarters may be had, and the country around affords excellent shooting : Mr. Randle, the proprietor, is very attentive to visitors. A league south of San Yivente village is George Bell's fine estancia called Viamont : it is intersected by an arroyo of the Sanborombon. Mr. Bell is one of tlie chief landed proprietors in the lUver Plate, having numerous estancias both in this province and the Banda Oriental ; he was one of the Monte Grande colonists already mentioned. South-west of this estancia is lliat belonging to the heirs of the late Mrs. Williams, an industrious Irishwoman who came hither from the Queen's Co., over forty vears bl^o. Glow's and Bursaco's estanciasare near the Glew Station on the Southern Railway; the first his a prettv plantation around the house, the second is mostly under grain. The lands of INelson and Ferguson adjoin those of Ilarratt, in tlse direction of Banchos. The line of railway from San Vicente to Sanbortimbon traverses the estancias of Freers, ])onselaar, M'Farquhar, Urda(|uiola, Wilkie,and Faulkes. Eastward of the two last mentioned estates are those of Temperley, Daley, and Corrales, which are watered by two arrovos which fall into tiie Sanborombon. Gowland is on the borders of Ensenada, and Ferrari near the station of the same name. Land is valued at §400,000 per league: total valuation 22,000,000, against 17,000,000 in 18G2. Contnbucion tax, $88,001/. Stock returns— 7,693 cows, 17,173 horses, 5,450 fine sheep, 1, 470, 49 Vmestiza sheep, 956 Creole sheep; being an average of 150 cows, 300 horses, and 29,000 sheep per square league. The amount of land under tillage is estimated at four square leagues, or about 25,000 acres. Population — 4,012 Argentines, 480 English, 397 Italians, 386 Spaniards, 295 Germans, 218 French, 3 Indians; total 6,030. There are 89 houses and 1,222 ranchos, including 29 pulperias. There are five alcaldes, 25 tenientes, 12 police, and 659 jNational Guards. San Vicente is a poor village a league from the railway station, with which communication is kept up by an omnibus. Formerly in wet seasons the village was entirely cut off by «bafiados)) and marshes, from all traffic with the city. An effort has been riiade to improve the place by getting up. a number of quiutas, but neither this nor even the railway has succeeded RAISCHOS. 1 27 in imparting the least vitality to San Vicente. There are — a church, state- schools, seven shops, and forty-two rateable houses, the best of the latter being those of Peter Wilch, John Freers, Peter Johnson, Parody, M. Borel, Fernandez, and Iriciti, valued from $50,000 upwards, Tiie state school is attended by 25 boys and 32 girls. The Irish residents of this district are visited by Rev. Mr. Mullady, of Chascomus. The Scotch residents attend on Sundays at a chapel near Tlobson's estancia. Justice of Peace, Don Baraon Sotelo; Curate, Rev. Domingo Scavini ; Postmaster, Don Carlos Secchi ; Municipality, six members; municipal revenue, $88,000. San Vicente is 6Heagues south of Las Lomas, G east of Cafuielas, II N.E.of Guardia del Monte, lOVN. of Ranchos, and 10 W. of Ensenada. Ranch OS. Situate twenty leagues south of Buenos Ayres, had formerly an area of ■ ninety square leagues, now reduced to sixty-three. This partido was the cradle of sheepfarming in Buenes Ayres, and the industry will be for ever identified with the naqjes of Sheridan, Hannah, and Harratt, from whose «cabafias)) are descended most of the refined flocks of tbe north, west, and south. The lands of Ranchos are iu many places low and marshy,- and suffer at times from overflowing of the lagoons and arroyo, but never from drought. The partido is bounded on the N. by Sau Vicente, on tHe W. by Guardia Monte, on the S. and E. by Chascomus ; before the recent change of -limits it extended soutlnvardstothe Rio Salado, but now it only touches that river at the PaSO Ponce and Paso de Ramds, on thetcpez and Villanueva estancias'. • The largest estancias in the district of Ranchos now are those of Sheridan, Harratt, and Hannah. The breed of sheep at these estancias was originally the same, namely, those imported from France and Germany for the Government by Rivadavia. The death of Mr. Sheridan in 1844, and of Mr. Harratt in 18 i9, produced changes in the management detrimental to the breed of their sheep. Mr. Hannah's have had the advantage of his continuous superintendance from the beginning of 1827 to the present day. His stock includes a flock of about 500 pure Negrete ewei? and a smaller number of Bambouillet, besides flocks of pure Merino blood, and crosses from the same with Negrete and Rambouillet rams. His mestiza breed may be considered such in name only, having been steadily crossed with pure rams for more than forty years. 128 THE SOUTHERN PARTIDOS. The principal estancias are — Name. John Hannah, Welch man, Harratt, Alegre, family Petrona de 0., Dr. Gibbings, Genova, Pereyra, Aguiar, Dominguez, Rivero, Diaz, .... Gerez, family, Senillosa, Bryan Thorp, Cabrera, family W. Glennou, Negrete, Villanueva, A. Lopez, P. Acosta, Sra. Chiclana, Figueroa, Sotuyo, family. Planes, Montes, Pedernera, Pazos, s. Leagues. .... ... . 3i .... ... . 3i .... ... . 4 , ... . 2| , ... . 1 1 • 2 X ■6 X 1? 1 4 1 4 JL -A JL u X a JL 4 i' y 5 • • • i JL 8 f .... 2 2 1 1 1 1 i i X 4 i Name. Barda, family, . . Garcia, do. Balcedo, G. Hunt, Bernan, F. Miller, H. Thwaites, . . Godoy, Caw an, Churruca, F. Bustos, Merlo, Arambnru, Gilez, Arista, Martinez, family, Lara, .... Ramirez, Coronel, Pinto, P. Videla, Fernandez, family, W. Purvis, . .% Herrera, family, J. Pettigrew, . Cardenas, Jeppener, League a. JL 4 In this district there are now very few large estancias. The estancias del Espartillar and Rincon de Vivot, formerly the two largest in the partido. although much nearer to the town of Ranchos than to Chascomus, have been annexed to the last named district. At the Espartillar the experiment is being carried out of a cross between the half Lincoln ewes and the French merino breed Mouchamp. The latter are not only very long in staple, but also of fine quality. Their wool is used in the manufacture of «muslin de laine» and other fabrics. It is hoped the experiment will succeed. RA?iC110S. 129 There are also, it is believed, some pure Negretti breed at Mr. Jeppcner's estancia, and also some small «tropillas» of the same class at a few other astaucias in the district. From the Altamirano station to Ranchos the camps are verj low. Don Pedro Alegre's estancia is about midway, with a handsome azotsa house, gardens, and farm-\ard. Several peach mounts are seen at short distances on both sides of the road, and after an hour's drive we come up to Dr. Gibbings' estancia. The doctor's residence displays a confused style of architecture, having been originally after tlie manner of an English cottage, and is flanked by castellated brick buildings, Avhich have a very pretty effect in the perspective. But the quiuta is the great object of attraction, consisting of a garden well-stocked with e\ery kind of European fruit, and a peach mount laid out in avenues lined with poplars: in the garden are more than a hundred choice plants from San Jose, the gift of General Urquiza; and tlie avenues of the monte beai- the names of Mitre, Drago, Rawson, fernaadez, &c., which they received when the late President and his Ministers visited the place in 186 i. The whole place is very neatly kept,. and is said to contain over a million trees and plants. This estancia w as first settled by the ill-fated Planes, who sold it to Gervacio Rosas, and the- latter disposed of it to 31r. John Duffy, now of Carmen de Areco, from whom^ it passed to its present hospitable owner. It was first called Los Ombues, from a group of those trees near the house, but now it is called Estancia de Humayta, since the capture of the great Paraguayan fortress by the Allies. Dr. Gibbings gives grand festivities every >'ew Year, which are attended by numbers of foreigners and neighbors, from tov.n and country. A league S.W. of Dr. Gibbings' estancia is that of the Planes family, and this place is remarkable for a terrible tragedy enactcd tliere some fifteen years ago. Three leagues further S.W. we reach El Carmen, the splendid estate of ■Sir. Hannah. The new estancia-housc is visible a loner wav, almost surrounded with trees. It is, perhaps, the finest edifi;.'e in the camp, and cost over £10,000 sterling. There are spacious «gaIponcs,)) where the line sheep are kept and sundry prize rams of various breeds. Mr. Hannah was the only person who got a s^ilvcr medal at Par".s for River Plate wools. The dip for curing sheep of the scab is constructed after the model of Mr. Musgrave's (formerly of Australia, now of Las Flores), and 2,000 sheep can be well dipped in half-a-day. IXear the estancia-house is a little graveyard, where there are two head-stones to the memory of the Dr. Sheridan and iMr. Robert Hannah. Within a league of Ranchos is the estancia of Figneroa and Gowland :^the place was settled by a native in IS2i, who bought an area of a league II 130 THE SOUTHKR^f PARTIDOS. square for $30 s.: he sold it to Mr. Gotland in 1849 for $200,000, iiicliiding a raiiclio and 8,000 sheep. Since then it has received much improvement : the cstancia-house where Sefior Fig^ieroa resides is a comfortable dwelling, surrounded by large «galpones)) with French tile roofs, and the Aviiole is sheltered by a plantation of peaches and poplars. Senor Figueroa is partner with Mr. Gowland, and Justice of Peace for the district. The estancia of Henry Thwaites lies between Tianchos and the railway, adjacent to the other estates of the family : there is a modern azotca house, w ith a large quinta for fruit and vegetables. The Jeppcncr estancia is reputed one of tke best for its size in the province. It is half a league from the station of that name, eastward, and the handsome galpon, with its turrit, rises above the surrounding planta- tion. The proprietor endeavored to establish a town close to the railway stafion, but it seems he set too high a value on the ground. Mr. Jtppeuer is now a barraqueto in Barracas. Three leagues ^est of Jeppener station is the famous Sheridan estancia, called Los Gaipones, now the property of Mrs. Welchman. It was this lady's father, Peter Sheridan, who began sheepfarmlng in this country, endowing i>ue os Ay res with a staple that now gives £:>, 000, 000 sterling p. r annum. I'he Sheridan estates were the subject cf long litigation, until a settlement was arrived at, a few years ago. On this estancia the Jocke? CluJj held its meeting last September: the silver cup Avas presented by the Government of Buenos Ayres, and w on by Mr. Tomkinson's Gauchito. The land is valued at $350,000 per square league. Total valuation, $•23,000,000; C-jntribucion tax, $!;2,000. Stock returns — 32,216 cows, ■i8,l07 horses, 28,3 IG line sheep, 1,088,485 mestiza sheep, and 1,700 swiiie, being an average of 500 cows, 450 horses, and 18,000 sheep per square league. Population^5, 428 Argentines, 359 English, 459 French, 707 Spaniards, 321 Italians, 102 Germans, 212 various— total 7,588. There arc 117 houses and 1,104 ranchos, including 63 pulpcrias. There are 7 alcaldes, 29 tenientes, 14 police, and 721 National Guards. Agriculture is generally in a backward state; there are 380 chacras and qumtas, but mostly plantations of peaches and poplars. Ranchos is a town in ruins. You pass through streets or lanes with roofless houses, at distances of thirty to fifty yards, showing that the place wa.s once populous. In the plaza the same desolation reigns : a mud rancho used as a church, with one bell broken and another cracked ; a fonda terminating a row of empty tenements ; an almacen acting as post-office ; and an arch for running «sortija,» which seems a sarcasm upon the dreary sepulchral aspect of the town—voild tout! If you extend your w anderiug through the teaantless streets, you come upon a decent house that belonged RA>-CHOS. 131 to the late Dr. Sheridan, a qiiinta of Sefior Casalins, a bakery, a carpenter^s shop, and a boot-shop, the last sign of vitality in this aDeserted Village. » It is a marvel how these three artisans can even make out a living. The natives themselves say — ccThe place can no longer be called Ranches, but Las Tuinbas.)) The ruin of Ranches is generally ascribed to some Munici- pality or Justice of Peace, a few years ago, who suffered the cattle of the estaucias to overrun the quintas and ruin the quinteros. A grand new church, capable of holding twice the population of the whole partido, is now being completed. In 1863 there were 51 imteable houses, of which only two were valued over §50,000, viz. : those of Rosas and Eborali : since then the ruin has increased, and nothing can revive the place but the expected branch from the Southern Railway to the Rio Salado. Ranches w as formerly an outpost on the Indian frontier, and you still see at the street-corners some of the old pieces of cannon used at that time. The streets are wholly impassable inrainy weather, and the quantity of dogs ts unprecedented. The population is nominally set down at 1,600, but cannot reach half that figure ; even on Sunday mornings you hardly see a dozen people at Mass or in the streets. The shop of the late Dr. Sheridan is now held by Mr. Thomas Nuttall ; Seuor Campero's shop in the old plaza is also well supplied, and the proprietor is most polite and attentive to strangers. Don Juan Garat runs a«diligencia» daily to and from Altamirano station, placing Ranches within five hours' journey of the city: the fare is $30. The Irish residents, about 300 in number, belong to the district of Chascomus, which is at present their parish. The state schools are attended by 46 boys and 45 girls. Ranches is five leagues west of Chascomus, and there intervenes a large lagoon called Lake Vitel : it is four leagues i^^^^E. of Paso Ramos, on the Rio Salado ; and four S.W. of Altamirano station, it is nine east of Guardia Monte, ten and a-half south of San Vicente, and seventeen S.W. of Magdalena. Justice, Don Bernabe Figueroa ; Curate, Rev. Andres Serrano; Post- master, R. A. Flores. Municipality, six members; Municipal revenue, §112,000. Chascomus. Situate twenty-four leagues south of Baenos Ayres, his an area of 18ft square leagues, and comprises 118 estancias. 112 132 THE SOUTHETIN PARTIDOS. The principal estancias arc Xame. S. Leaf^nes. Name. Migueus, family, 13 Huergo, NcNNt'Jll, .... ... 5 Ociioa, . . . . Gandara, .... 5 Alsina, Juan Fernaudez, H Lacombe, Calderon, family, 6 Lezama, George Bell,. ... 3 Thwaites, Casalius, family, ... 6^ INieto, Girado, family, ... .4 Acevedo, Plowes, - 2^ J. No well, . . . Jaime, family, H Monasterio, . . . Cabrera, .... 1 N. Johnston, . . . Casco, .... 1 Llanos, . . . . Anchorena, .... 1 Hernandez, . . . Zabala, .... 1 Gon.salia, San Martin, .... 1 Garcilazo, W.Sheddon,.... 1 , Joseph Green, Gomez, If James Dods, . . . Diaz, family, 1* John Dods, . . . Peter Brown, I Altamirano, . . . Aranda, .... 1 Arroyo, Acosta, i Ayala, Agiiero, .... , . . . VJ Mrs. Mullady, Machado, family, 1 Paez, family. Montenegro, 1 Robert Wilson, Patrick Wallace, I Rincon, Echagtic, .... i Portela, Fonzalida, .... f P. Maxwell, . . . Perez, .... 1 John Fessey,. . . Robert .Wilde, 1 . . . . ^ Soria, family, Aumada, .... f Zeballos, Barragan, .... 1 ... 4 Joseph Graham, Percy ra, .... f Duaite, Kuffman, 2-^ Vivot, George Shiel, i John l""air, . . . John Y. Coe, 1 Alvarez, family, Doval, .... 1 . . . . 4 l\. Buchanan, Lcguisamon, .... H A. Benavpute, Trias, .... 3 Alexander Bell, ^'. Lcagufs. o •J 3 2 2^ • 2f I: i- I i i i f i I 10 6 H CIIASCOMUS. 133 Xame. 8. Leagues. Name. S. Leagues TJarbosa, .... • 1 Ludueila, family, f James Burnet, 1 Ledesraa, .... i .... .J Correa, .... ^ Molina, .... H Caos, .... i Piueyro, family, f Castro, .... i Sosa, family, i Camblon, i Arrasc^ete, x Escribaiio, .... 1 Hugh Robson, JL Jose reruaudez, 1 Avellaneda, . . . . 1 .... ^ Ferrari, family, 1 Godoy, 1 .... ^ Facia, .... i Isaurralde, i Figueroa, i Guevara, .... 1 .... 4 Gadea, % Yillaverde, .... JL .... sj Guerreros, i Arrola, 1 .... 4, Laiuo, .... i The partido is bounded on the east and north by the Sanborombon river, on the west by Ranchos, and on the south by the Rio Salado. A decree has been passed to form a new partido called Biednia in the district near the coast of the River Plate, and contained between the Sanborombon and the Salado rivers. This ^vill strip Chascomus of the large estanciasof Migueus, Ochoa, Alsina, Calderon, and Casalins, and the smaller ones of Huergo, Pifieyro, Escribauo, Godoy, and Fretes. There is no partidoin the province with a more abundant water supply than Chascomus : besides the two rivers Avhich form its boundaries north and south, there are a dozen large lakes, viz.: Vitel, Chis-chis, Chascomus, Las 3Iulas, Esquivel, Encadcnadas, Hurro, Averias, Hinojal, Saladas, Tablilla, and Abrasadera, and numberless smaller ones. Until recently the cstancia of John Fair and Vivot belonged to the partido of Ranchos. The Espartillar, Mr. Fair's splendid estate, is about equi-distant from Ranchos and Chascomus, lying about four leagues S.S.E. of the former town. The estanciu is visible about two leagues after leaving Ranchos, and presently you see a «cordou)) of tasteful puestos; there are forty-two of these puestos on the estancia, all well built, Avith shingle roof, and some of them having fine plantations. Here and there you see a few clumps of esparta grass, w liich gives its name to the estancia. The house is pleasantly situated on high ground, overlooking a lagoon and arroyo. The out-oGiecs are sheltered by venerable acacia trees, and an immense tract of fenced and arable land extends south and east. The first settler on the Espartillar was one Barati,over fifty years ago, and Mr. Reid still shows two old pieces of cannon used in that time against the Indians. The estancia comprises 134 THE SOUTHERN PARTIDOS. more than six leagues, say 40,000 acres English, and the stock about 85,000 sheep, 3,000 horned cattle, besides Horses, &c. In one flock are seen 300 fine sheep, Lincolns and their cross with other breeds. The Durham half-bred cows form a respectable «rodeo,» while the half-bred horses are really beautiful, these last are descended from two prize stallions (one cost 1,000 guineas) imported by Mr. Fair. Of the forty-t\vo puestos some arc held by Irishmen, others by Scotchmen, Basques, natives, &c. Mr. Fair has offered a rancho to be kept apart as a Catholic chapel, for the use of the Tri^h neighbors, but as yet this liberal offer has not been acted on. The Espartillar is considered one of the finest and best arranged establishments in the country, under the experienced management of Mr. Patrick Vans Agnew Jleid : it was formerly owned by Mr. Ludiam : it is said that Mr. Fair was offered £30,000 for the estate and refused it. The Fair family have other large estates at Monte Grande and in the Banda Oriental. Between the Espartillar and the Rincon de Rocha, on the Rio Salado, is the extensive Vivot estancia ; it has several lagoons, and the proprietor is a deputy in the Provincial Legislature. The estancias. of Kuffman and Thwaites lie between Chascomus and Ranchos, on the borders of Lake Yitel. Further north is the Gandara estancia, traversed by the Southern Railway, which has a station on the ground: the Gandara residence is a fine, modern building, surrounded by a peach mount with alleys of lofty poplars. The proprietor put up a agraseriaw near the station, the machinery being by Marshall of Barracas ; but the Avorks are now suspended. East- ward are the lands of Diaz, Bell, Buchanan, and Benavente; and near the Sanborombonwe find the estancias of Newton and other English proprietors. Newton's is a large and valuable property, well stocked with superior sheep and cattle : the wool is pressed and baled on the estancia, and shipped direct to England for the owner's account. The estancia-house has a line monte and chacra, supplied with the choicest fruits and products : there is also a part of the establishment set apart for rearing silk-worms, Avhich are doing rcmaikably well, and the samples of silk are excellent. The late Mr. Richard IVewton, sen., was an active and enterprising English- man, who accumulated a splendid fortune: he was a leading member of the Argentine Rural Association, and always in favor of works of progress : he essayed unsuccessful!}' to make an Artesian well on the estancia : the family possess various otiier fine estates on both sides of the River Plate. The Newton estancia goes by the name of Santa Marin, and is prettily situated on a rising ground above the Sanborombon. Next to Newton's is Santa Catalina, which has been sub-divided between Robert Wilson, Hugh Robson, Mullady, and Hernandez. The late Mrs. CHASCOMUS. 135 Mullady built a chapel on her land for the use of her Irish neighbors. >'G\t conies the ancient estancia of Las Mulas, sub-divided between Mr. S. Ne\\ton, Mniau Johnston, J. Graham, Peter Brown, W, Shields, J, Bell, ' W. Bell, U. Buchanan, and the old estancia-liouse is occnpied by Mr. William Dodd. To the south of Las Mulas is »he Adela estancia, belonging to Mr. George Bell, at present held by Mr. John Dodd ; and further soutli is the Estancia de Esperanza, the property of Ochoa 'ewtou, valued from $100,000 upwards. The best hou^es of business are those of Auld & Pettigrew,King, Zavala, and Milano. ; the first-named are the Standard agents. There is also a good photographer, Mr. Ferguson. 13utthe great ornament of Chascomus is the Great Southern Railway terminus, a handsome building finished in English stjle, A\ith .spacious waiting-rooms, offices, &c. : all the materials are from the locality, the laguna providing excellent sand, and the Camaroncs estancias (belong- ing to Sefior Aguero) having superior lime. Some years ago the Salado had a great 'creciente,' and the steamer Yerba ascended to Chascomus. Clo^e to the lagoon is a handsome two-story mansion, built by Mr. Crawford, who made the railway, now owned by Mr. Armstrong : there is a charming view from the 'mirador,' especially when the lake is high.. Chascomus was diade a frontier post in 17 44, but its progress was very slow till the opening of the Southern Railway, in 1865. It seems destined to outstrip all the other camp towns in importance, except perhaps Chivilcoy. The Irish Sisters of Mercy have established a branch-house here for the education of the Irish female children of the surrounding districts. There are several 'grascrias for melting down sheep, and the freight of grease to the city forms a great feature in the goods traffic of the railway. Chascomus is 4 J leagues S.W. of the Sanborombon, 6'N.E. of the Rio DOLORES. i; Salado, 4^ E.S.E. of Ranchos, and 1 1 W. of the Riucoa de Biedma, where it touches the coast of the River Plate : it is 17 leagues N.N.W. of Dolores. Justice of Peace, Don Pedro Roca ; Postmaster, Mr. Miles King ; Munici- pality, six members; municipal revenue, $320,000. Irish pastor, Rev- Thomas MuUady. D olores . Situate 39 leagues leagues, and compris S.S.E. es '228 of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 82 square estancias, of which the follo>ving are the principal: — , Name. Parravicini, . . . s. Leagues. 17 Name. S. Leaguca. Agiiero&Co., 3 Anchorena, .... Juan Diaz, 10 Juarez, .... I White, 1 Escribano, .... '^ rvadal, .... .... f Bello, 2 Aniaral, .... .... ^ i^apiola, .... S. Palonieque, Peredo, I 1 2. H Roldan, | Pinero, .... 1^- Cordoba, li Almiron, .... 9 3 J.nro, .... .... I J Madariaga, .... 2 Palma, ^- R. Palonieque, li The partldo is bounded on the iiortii by the new partidoof Castelli, which intervenes between Dolores and the Rio Salado, on the west by Vecino, on the south byilonsalvo, and on the east by Anchorena's lands of the Tordillo, which reach down to the sea-board. There are numerous lagoons and water courses; and S.E. of the town of Dolores is the forest of Tordillo, 'which covers a superficies of nearly ten square leagues. The Canada del Vecino traverses tlie partido from east to Avest. The principal lakes arc the Tordillo, Las Cruces, Hinojal, Vecino, Salomon, Los Rengos, and Durazno. The Parravicini estancias extend southwards from the municipal radius of Dolores to the borders of 3Iousalvo, being traversed for the entire length by -the highroad to El Moro ; in many parts the land is lovv and marshy, especially in the vicinity of the Canada del Vecino. The Anchorena estates occupy the whole country eastward of Dolores down to the sea, about six leagues in a straight line ; they are mostly in the partido of Tordillo, and cover more than thirty square leagues ; the northern boundary being the Arroyo dc Vivoras, while southward they stretch along the coast fowards the lauds of Gilmour and Gibson at the Tuvii. 138 THE SOUTHERN PARTIDOS. The estaucias of Diaz aud G. White lie between the forest of Tordillo and valley of the Vecino ; and almost in the same neighborhood are the lands of Ecllo, tiscribano, iXadal, Palomequc andZaplola. Near the Lagnna Limpia, close to the town, is the estaucia of Pedro Juarez, and westward is that of Aguero & Co., near the Falcon lagoon. North of Dolores wemeetthe lands of Madariaga, Aliniron, Pinero, Cordoba and Luro ; and the smaller proper- ties of Roldan and Amaral bound the municipal chacras westward. The ollicial lists show^ only three English proprietors, Yates, Langrave and White — but the total English population numbers nearly 200. The land is valued at $350,000 per square league : total valuation ^10,000,000, against §13,000,000 in 1801. Stock returns— 01,905 cows, 1 9, 588 horses, 1,902 line sheep, 255,180 mestiza sheep, 99,870 Creole sheep, and 2,262 swine; being an average of 900 cows, 300 horses, and 5,500 sheep to the square league. Population — ^6,090 Argentines, 478 French, 307 Italians, 317 Spaniards, 31 Germans, 12 English, 75 India.is, 90 various; total 7,iGC. There are 54 houses and 88 i rauchos, including 87 pulpcrias. There are 1 i alcaldes, 58 tenieates, 10 police, and 053 National Guards. Agriculture is making some progress ; there are 21 \ chacras, covering more than 20,000 acres. Dolores has probably progressed as rapidly as any other town in the province. In 1851 there were only two diligences %nonthiy plying with Buenos Ayres : according to a recent calculation there are forty diligences, carrying 800 passengers to and fro monthly. The town has a tasteful and busy look, with a fine pyramid in the plaza, bearing a bust of Castelli, who made the first fruitless revolution against the tyrant Rosas : the pyramid is surrounded by rows of iron seats. The new church erected by Padre Errausquiu and the Municipality, at an outlay of $1,000,000 (£8,000) has 90 pillars supporting the nave aud four porticos 'a cuatro vientos.' The adjoining block has been purchased for the construction of a Recoba, to contain the schools and the Juzgado. The boys' school is conducted by Mr. Abrines, a native of Gibraltar, who is higlily spoken of: it counts 120 boys; the girls' school has about half that number. There is a small theatre at present open, a bank under Scilor .Rrumncl, and a service of 'serenes' to protect the tow n by night. The population of the 'city,' as it is ollicially styled, is put down at 1,800 souls, and it is the great emporium of trade in the southern districts. Tliere was originally an intention to prolong the Soutliern Railway from Cliasco.nus to Dolores, but this now seems doubtful, and tliere is a counter-project to run a line from Altamirano station to Ranchos, then crossing the Rio Salado near Paso de Pojice, and striking into the heart of the southern camps in DOLORES. IS^" the direction of Azul. At present the diligences run daily from Chascomus to Dolores, although the Saladoat times offers great difficulties both to the passengers and goods traffic. Dalorcs has a Criminal Tribunal with jurisdic- tion over all the southern districts : also a branch of the Provincial Bank for this and all the neighboring partidos. Dolores is 17 leagues S.S.E. of Chascomus, and 8 leagues S. of the passes called Postrera and Villar, on the T»io Salado : it is about 7 W. of the seaboard, 4 iN. of the Canada del Vecino, 12 W.N.W. of Tuyii, 2 W. of the forestof TordilU), 27 N.^.W. of Mar Chiquita, 32 ^.K. of Tandil, and 38 E.N.E of Azul. Justice of Peace, Don Lino Lagos ; Postmaster, Don Norberto Fresco : Slunicipality, six members: municipal revenue, $454,000. Standard agency at the diligence office. Thore is no Irish pastor as yet named for this partido,the district belougs^ to the clergyman in Chascomus. This partido is fully capable of maintain- ing double the stock at present on it, but the estancieros ask sudi high rents for their lands that immense districts are merely occupied by rodeo> of horned cattle and mares. MO THE SOUTH COAST PARTIDOS. CHAP. IX. SOUTH COAST PARTIDOS. QUILMES TO MUl CHlOUITA. Quilmcs. Situate three leagues S.E. of Buenos Ayres, has au area of twenty-five square leagues, nearly half of which is under tillage, and the rest is taken up by twenty-one estancias. In the suburban districts of Buenos Ayres there is none more picturesque or better worth visiting than Quilmes. The traveller Avho makes an excursion thither is agreeably surprised at the valuable establishments, agricultural progress, and woodland scenery of the former settlement of the Quilmes Indians. The road from Barracas passes through four leagues of most unpromising country, until we reach the quinta lately belonging to Serlor Saavedra, a Chilian resident, where the plantations begin, and a short distance further is the chacra of the Alamos. The proprietor, Mr. Latham, is well known for his splendid breed of English and mestizo horses : equally rem;irkable is his model farm, which is kept in beautiful order and furnished with the most improved English implements of agriculture. The cabana of Messrs. Latham & Benavente possesses tlie finest breed of Bambouillet sheep iu this Continent. Belhi Vista, the property of Mr. John Clarke, stands on a rising ground, and fiom the mirador is obtained a charming view, which takes in the Lomas de Zaraora, the city, and the waters of La Plata. The peach mount Ql ILMES. 1 4 I evtends for more than half a league, but its chief value is the timber, not the fruit. The hotel here is-verv convenient for travellers, and comprises also a first-rate drapery, grocery, and tailor's shop. Ten minutes' ride brings us to the hospitable mansion of 31r. Clarke, >vhich is built and fitted up with the comfortribie elegance of a country-seat in England. Mr. Clarke is among the oldest residents in this neighborhood, and has some interesting stories about former times. Quilmes takes its name from a tribe of Indians oi' the Upper Provinces, who waged implacable though unsuccessful war to the Spanish settlers and were brought hither in captivity to form a '•Reduction,' about the middle of the last century. The race gradualh died out and now the last descendant of the Quilmes lives on a plot of ground near the village, surrounded by the genius of foreign industry and civilization. After the decay of this tribe, in 1824, its lands were divided by Government into 'sitios' of 500 yards by 300, and trees and agriculture soon sprang up. Mr. Clarke remembers when the place was perfectly bare, and points with pride to the montes and green lanes planted by him, some >Mth his own hand, which have so wonderfully converted the aspect of the neighborhood. Rosas injured the chacras much by making them whiter-quarters for his cavalry, but at present there is no part of the Argentine Republic so closely bordering on the condition of English farms. The meadows of Mr. Clarke's farm extend down to the banks of the River Plate, and are fringed uith hedges as at home. No fewer than 80 bullocks are constantly employed in carting hay and alfalfa, but the wretched state of the road to town is a great impediment to traffic. The region of chacras, neatly fenced and cultivated, extends far beyond Quilmes, to the river of Conchitas, and if the traveller crosses to the other side, he will find the journey well repaid by a visit to Santo Domingo, the cstancia of Mr. John Davidson, close to which also is the neat farm-house of Mr. Peter Davidson. Santo Domingo originally belonged to the Dominican friars, from whose hands it passed into those of the Piutos family, and the latter sold it to its present owner. The plantations are very fine, and the estancia house and out-offices built by 3Ir. Davidson are in the best English style. In the garden are some ombii trees of great age and size, and here on the last dar of every year a great gathering of Scotch and English neighbors takes place to welcome in the >'ew Year with rejoicing and festivities. Mr. Davidson also holds races twice a year on his estancia. He is most hospitable to visitors, and has been one of the principal benefactors to the Scotch church, situate between this place and San Vicente, which is attended by the Rev. Mr.Gebbie and a large Presbyterian congregation. The estancia of Don .1 i2 THE SOUTH COAST PARTIDOS., fieonardo Pereyra probably has not its equal in this province in point of arraagement, a spacious house and beautiful garden, large galpones of brick mortar, extensive alfalfares, and all the requisites for an extensire breeding establishment for the best English <(crias» of cattle, sheep, and 4iorses. It would afford a treat to any lover of fine animals to see his stock : any one of his breeds are worth the gallop to see ; but he has not one but many: the Durham, a short-horned cattle; the Hereford cattle, the Cleveland bay, a carriage horse breed: the Southdown, the Shropshire- down, the Leicester sheep, vfcc. Mr^ Pereyra is one of the wealthiest men in the River Plate. The department of Quilines, though having a comparatively small quantify of sheep or cattle reared in it, is second to none in the variety and quality of the superior breeds. Besides those of Don Leonardo Peyrera, a fine herd of short-horned cattle is to be found at Mr. Davidson's estaucia ; the thorough-bred English horse and his progeny, Durham bull -and herd of cow s, at Mr. Latham^s chacra ; and last, but not least, the finest flocks of Rambouillet pure and mestiza sheep in the country, at the ram-breeding establishment of Don Manuel Benavente and Mr. Latham. The flocks of mestiza ;^Ram'"ouillet) ewes of these two gentlemen averaged 0|Tl) per fleece this last spring shearing, and commanded the highest price of the market during the past two seasons, viz.: $120 to $125 per arroba; ten months old pure ram iambs, ISTi and 18^-11 wool; and pure Rambouillet rams of two years and upwards averaging dh arrobas weight. There is no native gentleman in the country to whom greater credit is due than to Don ifanuel Benavente, whose admirable management and exceeding great care, and attention has enabled him to take the position of the most successful breeder of the Rambouillet sheep in Buenos Ayres. The property returns show the following estancias : — Name. S. Leagues. Name. S. I-»agu-s Leonardo Pereyra, 4 Sanchez, family, , i John Davidson, 2 Islas, i Geo. Bell, ii Baranda, 1 Ponce Leon, .... H Young, 1 Arrascaeta, .... i Ro)d, i D. Hudson, .... i Arroyo, i Sra. Cruz, i Mrs. AVatson, i J. Brown, .... i Godoy, family, 1 T. Robson, .... i Negrete, .... 1 W. Yates, .... i Islas, .... i F. Black, .... i Diaz, .... 1 Ihc land is exceedingly valuable, and estimated from §500,000 up to QUILMES. 143 $2,000,000 per square league. Our countrymen own more than half the partido, and their properties, including the chacra farms, are some of the lincst in the country. George BelFs lands are partly in this partido, but principally in that of Ensenada. John Davidson's lie along the Conchitas river, down to its mouth on the sea-boaid. Robson^s and Brown's arc inland, between the Scotch chapel and the Southern Railway, and Mrs. Yates is near the coast. The line estancia of Leonardo Pereyra occupies almost the whole coast-line from the Conchitas river to the borders of Ensenada : it is watered, moreover, by the Arroyo del Pato, and traversed for its whole length by the telegraph r. ires connecting Punta Lara with Buenos Ayres. There are 473 chacras, covering GO. 000 acres; the principal are — Xaine. CuJidras. 1 Name. Cuadras. John Clark, .... 665 I Cabrera, .... .... 55 Garay, family, .... 272 Sra. Hornos, .... 55 Izaguirre,. . . . 535 i Molino 80 Wilfred Latham, 200 ! Arzc, family, 59 Villavicensio, .... 55 ; Correa, .... .... 22 Juan >'. Fernandez, .... 110 ! Duranoua, .... 22 Lava lie, 55 1 Forteti, .... .... 37 Perez, family, .... 64 Gcnsalez, ... 34 Basigahp .... 45 1 Leine, 35 3Irs. 31. Clark, 12 1 Lerdon, 22 Escobar, .... .... 80 Lagarde, ... .... 45 A. Fernandez, .... 34 Jose Montes, .... 45 Herrera, .... .... 22 Quevedo 34 Segovia, .... .... 176 M. Saavcdra, 22 Berasategui. .... 90 Villaueuva, .... 22 Mrs. Barton, .... 73 Henry Thompson, 22 Cabral, .... 135 R. Maciel, .... •22 Gutierrez, family, .... lOi N. Martinez, .... 34 Llanes .... 90 M. Mosqueira, .... 22 Parejas, 50 C. Seanz Valienle, 34 Baranda, 26 Senillosa, .... .... 34 Diaz, 25 C. Drayer, .... 112 Faria, .... 22 Bamos, 16 Giraldes, 22 Miralles, familv, .... 34 Carmen, .... 12 Otamendi, 45 M. Barragan, .... 90 Quiueli, .... 34 M. Benavento, 90 Thos. Sandes, .... 34 V.Baragan, 90 Tobal, 22 Bernal, 67 B. Ricart, 43 H4 THE SOUTH COAST PARTIDOS. ' These chacras, as already stated, are in the highest state of cuItivatioD, being mostly in the hands of Basques and-Italians -..there is also a sprinkling of emigrants from the Canary Islands. The returns of stock for the partido are -12,896 cows, 7,729 horses, 2,070 fine sheep, 505,996 mestiza sheep, and 788 swine ; being an average of 800 cows, 500 horses, and 30,000 sheep per square league. Populat on, 4089 Argentines, :}5i Italians, 346 Spaniards, 264 French, 98 English, 82 Germans, 53 various : total 5,286. There are 438 houses and 582 ranchos, including 59 pulperias. Tliere are 5 alcaldes, 40 tenientcs and 10 police. The town of Ouilmes is picturesquely situated ona high ground overlook- ing the River Plate, with the roadstead and city of Buenos Ayres in the distance. The environs and quintas are very pretty, and the number of suburban residences will be much increased as soon as the Boca and Ensenada Railway be prolonged this far. T!ie quintas of Bilbao, Montes de Oca, Carman, and other families from the city are very neat and elegant. The population numbers* about 2,500 souls, and there are thirty-six. rateable houses, the best being those of Amocdo, Ariiola, Baranda, Costa, Casares, John Clark, Goiisalez, Hasporii, Lerdon, Martinez, Rodriguez, Romagosa, and Sanchez, valued fiom §50,000 upwards. The town boasts a fine church and state-school, and eleven good shops : among the latter are those of Gousalez, Bros., Libourt, Garcia, Sonyth, Iturralde and Martin Puig, There are two hotels, those of Manuel Joval and Felix Riso, both in the plaza ; besides several b.lliard-rooms. There are tuo bakeries, belonging to Bernard Lerdon and L^aniond Raymundo. There are three blacksmiths, two of whom are in Calle Gomercio, and the third, Don Diego Asperu, lives near the plaza. Dr. "Wilde has a good medical practice, and the apothecary is Sefior Matieuzo, who lives in Calle Municipal. There is a hair-dresser's shop in the plaza. In fine weather three diligences ply to and from the city, viz: those of Joval, Rlso, and Cordoba ; but in wet seasons all commu- nication is suspended, owing to the dreadful state of the roads. The coaches from town may be taken either at the Calle Potosi, or at the confectionary in South Barracas. From Quilmes to the coast there is a road called Calle Municipal, and passengers for Ltls Lomas will find abridge over the Arroyo de Gaete near tlie Atalaya. A new eemetery has been laid out near the farm of Dona Isabel de Escobar. The trade of Quilmes is very limited, owing to the bad state of the roadsj and there is little opening for a new-comer, either as achacrero)) or in any other occupation. Among the foreign settlers not already mentioned are AVheatly, AVesthoven, Graham, Roche, Bernard, and some others. The state-schools are attended by fitly boys and seventy-one girls. E.NSENADA. W -Quilmes is situate 2^ leagues E. of Lomas de Zaraora, 6^ N.W. of Ensenada, 7 iN\>'.E.of San Vicente, and 12 N.E. of Cauuelas. The partido is bounded on the N.E. by the River Plate, on the N.W. by Barracas, on the W. by the Lomas deZamora, and on the S. and S.E. by Ensenada. Justice of Peace, Don Manuel Benavente; Curate, Rev. Pablo M. Pardo ; rostnaaster, Don Pedro Riso ; Standard agent, 3Ir. James Bernard ; Munici- pality, five members; Municipal revenue, $500,000. Ensenada . the principal : — Name. S Leagues Melchor Piiiero, 21- Irasla, n Arana, family, • 2J Yidela, .... H Huerta, family. li Martinez, f Sanchez, .... f Larosa, .... . • • • •i Sueldo, .... i Demaria, i Mrs. Taylor, f Dibur, 1 H. Rummell, ^ Suasnaval, family, f IR Olidcn, 1 4 G. Harch, 1 A.Chaves, Wm. Cooper, 1 Merlo, family. . 3i Gomez, I F.Rodriguez, 1 0. Piilero, A -4 Godoy, ^ lyres, has an area of fifty square mcias, of which the following are Name. Garcia, S. Leagues. Yilasin, .... I Egeni, Sra. Gomez, 5. * E. Ponce, * Macedos, .... i Thos. Mahon, * C. Piilero, i E Rodriguez, 1 Geo. Bell, 6 Ponce Leon, 2 Oldendorff, If Villoldo, -fc Llanos, .... f Bilcher, i Selamendi, i J. G. Taylor, f Torres, .... 1 H.Gilbert, .... i Torrena, i C. Cos, i Garraghan, i KK 146 THE SOUTH COAST PARTIDOS. This paitido extends along the coast for more Ihan six. leagues, from the borders of Quilmes to those of Magdalena, and its depth inland is about eight leagues till reaching the partido of San Vicente. The land along the coast is mostly low and marshy, but the district is in general considered well adapted for sheep. It is watered by the Arroyos Sauce, Pcscado, Santiago, Gato, Rodriguez, Palomas, and Pereyra. The boundaries are N.E. the River Plate, N.W. Quilmes, S.W. San Vicente, and S.E. Magdalena. Some of the best est.uicias belong to foreigners, and the partido is so thickly settled that there is no room for new-comers. One of the finest establishments in South America is the Oldendorff estaucia, and tiiis claims a lengthened notice in our pages. The Estancia Santa IMaria was established by Ernest Oldendorff in tlie year 18G1. It is^ about one league from the Donselaar railway station, and eleven league's from town. The estancia is fenced in with wire on all. sides, and contains two square leagues of prime pasture land. The Chascomus road bisects the estancia. The estancia house is situated about the centre of the land, and has a line carriage-road, nearly three-quarters of a league long, leading from the entrance-gate. The approach to the house reminds one of a welf laid-out English farm. Passing the first puesto, immense fields of wheat and barley stretch out as far as the eye can see, then come alfalfa fields, and as we near tlie house, we hear the hum of the powerful threshing-machine, hard at work in the vicinity of some large stacks of wheat. Further on a chaff-cutting machine, preparing fodder for the cattle; close to, a neat brick granary, v/here the peons deposit the Avheat. Flocks incorrals on all sides, cared by German shepherds, and long four-wheeled farm-waggons passing to «nd fro. There are six flocks kept at the estancia — First flock, breeding ewes, thoroughbred Negrettis ; second flock, breeding ewes, thoroughbred Negrettis, yearlings; third flock, breeding ewes, thoroughbred ram flock ; fourth flock, breeding ewes, Negrettis, liambouillets, A INo. I ; fifth flock, breeding ewes, Negrettis, Rambouillets, A INo. 2; sixth flock, breeding ewes, Negretti-Rambouillet rams. • Each flock has its shepherd and dog, and is let out into the camp every day. All the shepherds on the estancia care tke flocks on foot. In one of the galpons are shown the three stud Rambouillet rams imported by Mr. Oldendorff; they are of immense size ; their fleeces average 21U each. In another gaipon the stud Negrettis, twenty in number, fleeces from twenty- one to twenty-five pounds each. There are fourteen sheep puestos on the estancia . The flocks are some of the evenest and best in the Plate, and the llecccs average eight pounds in the grease ; what most attracts notice is E5SE]HAD\. 147 the utter absence of scab. This proves the truth of Mr. Oldendorff's assertion that scab in sheep owes its existence to sheer neglect. The history of this splendid sheep-farm is possibly the very best proof that AYOol-growing in the Biver Plate, under proper management, is still a good paving business. Mr. Oldendorff, who is a German farmer by profes- sion, having taken out his diploma m the Agricultural State College in Wurtemburg, and having subsequently managed some of the largest farms and stoc^-brecding establishments in South Germany, founded his place here on the strictest and most approved German agricultural principles. He began by importing five Negretti ewes and his stud rams : subsequently he imported eighty more ^'egretti ewes, and their progeny is seen in the various classified flocks which are cared at the estancia. Nothing that ' science can afford, that experience can supply, is Avanting on this model farm. Mr. Oldendorff's wool last year attracted such attention in Antwerp that it was marked as exceptional, and could not be classified. The method adopted by Mr. Oldendorff in his books is exclusively German— each animal is classified, the entries made can be read only by the proprietor, who holds the German key, perhaps the only one in South America. In 1867 Mr, Oldendorff gave his first ram auction ; the result astonished all the ram breeders in the Plate, some of the pure thoroughbreds fetching as high as ^10,200, and averaging all round $3,535 per head, the highest ever obtained in Buenos .\.yres. All the young rams which Mr. Oldendorff disliked offering at auction, he sold on the estancia at private sale. Seven of the flocks at the puestos are bred w it'll pure thoroughbreds : the lambs are taken from the mothers at four and a-half months, and the young rams are kept apart until twoand a-half years old. The wool is baled on the estancia; and close to one of the galpons is the dipping apparatus, made of brick and Roman cement, six yards long, five feet wide, and five feet deep ; here eight men can with ease dip 1800 sheep per day. Looking south from the estancia-house, we see the artificial lake for the washing of the flocks ; here the flock is made to swim through, kept out all night, and next day driven over^a plank road that runs through the lake, where the men stand on either side and wash the sheep. Nine men can wa:>h about 1 ,"200 sheep per day. The flocks come home in the evening, Gerraat? fashion— shepherd, with his staff and dog, first. But if the the .sheep-breet'- ing system carried on at the establishment attracts notice, what .shall we say of the tillage department? AVho in Buenos Ayres knows that but afe\< hours' gallop from town there is a German estancia where hirty ploughi are kept constantly going, sixty horses ever in harness tillipg the soil, and irast fields of wliea' couta'ning 320 acres in one tract? The head farm KK2 1 iS THE SOUTH COiST PARTIDOS. • contains six fields of forty squares each; the second farm nine fields, twenty-one squares each. On each farm there is a regular rotation of crops, thus the wheat crop on the head farm is a month in advance of that of the second farm. The principal crops are wheat, barley, rye, and Irish horse beans. The second farm is all under wheat. On the head farm there arc three fields 120 squares, 480 acres under wheat. All the work on the place is done with the best implements and machinery ; the Belgian plough has given great satisfaction. There are fifteen at w ork on the farms ; they arc Tery cheap, costing $190 m^ in Germany, and light to work. The thrashing machine, with shaft, is worked by three horses. As regards the wheat-growing business, we have obtained the following statistics: — Average crop of one square, 20 fanegas ; cost to raise and deliver in Buenos Ayres, 3i32 per fanega, or $1,0 iO per square ; this includes every cl)arge. Average price of wheat, $200 perfanega,that is $4,000 per square, close on '300 per cent. The crop on the estancia last year, on thirty-eight squares, amounted to 1 ,000 fanegas, sold from $250 to $270 per fanega. This year's average crop is estimated at 2,500 fanegas. Besidesthe price realised for tlie wheat the straw is used for feeding cattle, sheep, and horses. The ground is ploughed up in spring to let the summer sun act on the new earth. The land is again [)loughed in April, then subsoiled, then harrowed by Scotch iron harrows, then rolled, and the crops sown in winter. The sowing is done by a broad castor, worked by one horse and two men each, finishing ten squares i)3r day, The wheat is coveied by a machine-grubber ; two horses and a man for abaut one and a-half squares per day. The reaping is done by Collin's reaping machines. There are nine of these machines on the ])laoe: they reap about two squares each per day. The crops are carted iiome in large farm waggons, ])rought from Germany; there are seven on tlie ostancia. The wheat is then made into stacks close to the granary, which is a neat building, with boarded floors, and the walls lined with zinc; but the granary is now too small, and in the galpon now building, ninety by seventeen, there will be a loft able to hold 4,000 fanegas of wheat. The thresing-machine cleans about seventv-five bushels per day. The chaff is cut by machinery for fodder. The beans, barley, and rye, are for the u.se of the farm, and the wheat is sent by rail in sacks ; there are no buyers in the camp. Most of the seed wheat is from Germany ; it is steeped in blue stone the night before sowing to avoid polilla, half pound to the bushel. The advantages accruing from fencing are no longer questionable, and although the expense is serious, the gains are more than commensurate. T he Oldeudorff farm contains two square leagues of land, upon which there ^ EXSE?fAD\. 140 are fourteen puestos, exclusive of the estancia-house, with its numerous flocks. During the last seven years there have been frequent droughts, &c., and immense loss to sheep and cattle farmers ; Mr. Oldendorff, however, never lost in the least, and his camps are ever clothed with the best grasses. The fence consists of four wires, ^'andubay posts, and a small ditch. There are 560 quintals of wire in the entire fence, which, cost, placed on the land, ^l 15 per quintal; 8,500 iS'andubay posts, which were brought down from La Paz, and cost, placed on the land, $6 each, which are now worth at least ^10 out there; the ditching and wiring, and putting down the posts, cost eighteen reales per yard. The Oldendorff estancia is surrounded by no less than forty-six different neighbors, whose cattle, sheep, and mares all fed upon the land previous to the fencing. The appearance of the farm in times ofdrought is something extraordinary — a sort of oasis in the dusty burnt-up plains — grass all over the land knee-deep, and all the stock in the xery best condition. Baron Von Ersen,a Wurtemburg cavalry officer, of great experience, has exclusive charge of the horse dep:irtracnt. Mameluke, a splendid sire, stands seventeen hands high, is seventeen years old, as tame as possible either as a saddle or a carriage horse. This magnificent horse comes from the stud of the King of AVurteraburg; he »vas fourteen years in the King's stables, and is of the celebrated Trakenen breed, half Arabic, and only held in Europe by the Kings of Wurtemburg and Prussia. On a recent occasion the King of i^russia sent to the Emperor of the French four pure blood Trakenen mares. The breed is greatly prized in Europe and is very scarce IN'ext comes Black, only five years old, a bigger, higher, and far more powerful- looking animal than Mameluke, of the same breed and stud, taken from the King's stables at two years old, and now three years in this country. There are four pure blood mares of the same breed, all tame, and, when not heavy in foal, worked in the plough. There is also Mr. Hopkins' celebrated American sirfe Lindo, of the Hamiltonian trotting breed, as yet very young, and exceedingly tame. Mr. Hopkins has also two Araeiican mares — Belle and Banna — of the celebrated Morgan trotter breed. The Baron has a puc'sto where he keepsa select «menijda» of about 120 picked mares, all the largest that he can obtain. The sires are fed on barley and green alfalfa, maize being too strong. The buildings on the estancia have been designed by the proprietor, who has taken out his diploma in Wurtemburg for rural achitecture. The estancia- house is on the style of a Swiss cottage, and is neat and commodious, containing eleven rooms. The puestos are all brick, some with the German felt roof, which is cheap, .and has given great satisfaction. To the lift of 150 ^ THE SODTTl COAST PARTIDOS. the estancia-house are the carpenters' shop, the machine depot, the fire engine room, the stables for thirty plough horses ; then comes a large galpon, eighty by eighteen, one end of which is cut off for the stables for the thoroughbreds. NeKt to this is the shearing galpon, used for the Ncgretti ewes, sixty by sixteen ; and opposite this is the great new galpon, seventy by twenty-two, with a loft capable of storing 4,000 fanegas wheat, the underneath part for rearing rams. INext is the granary ^vhich is now too small for the establishment; then the German shepherd's house, and last the raajordomo's cottage, a neat little building. To tiie right of the cstaucia other stables for thirty plough horses, apartments for the agricultural laborers, large «pileta)) for watering the great kitchen garden, Avhere every species of vegetable for the use of the peons and master is reared. In fine, it would be hard to find in the lliver Plate so extensive, well managed, and orderly an establishment. At sundown the ploughmen, mounted on the plough horses, form a sort of cavalcade, and with the noise of the harness and chains, appear to the stranger as a company of artillery. We pass to the refectory of the peons — clean tables, dishes, and hands ; everything in the most matchless order. The horses are stabled, the men wash their hands, and all repair to their evening meal. Order reigns supreme. In the evening, the various «capatazes» come to the head house, report the work of the day, the number of horses, men,' and implements employed, and receive instructions for4,he morrow. President Sarraiento, in a recent visit to the place, expressed himself equally pleased and astonished at everything that he saw. It has been suggested to H.E. that it might be made a first-class model farm for the llepublic. Along the coast-line we meet with the large estanciasof Dell, Iraola, and Huertas. Near the Piiuta Lara, a low promontory which stretches out eastward^ and is almost bare of vegetation, is the estancia of Mr. Bell : the house is tile-roofed and antique, apparently only a few feet above the level of t'iie river, yet never inundated even in the highest tides. The submarine cable is laid from Punta Lara to Colonia, and the overland telegraph Avices pass through Bell's lands en route for the city. Not far off is the Estancia Iraola, a large white building, with some high ground or lomas running almost parallel. The country looks bleak and thinly settled, but has fine pastures, and herds of horned cattle. Don iWelchor Pinero's property is ^n the banks of the Sanborombon, and the owner expended a large sum in building a grand residence which is now falling to decay. South of Point Santiago we find the estancias of Arana, Videla, and Tayloi'* intersected by the Arrovo del Sauce ; and further west are the lauds of Cooper, Eummell, EiNSE^fADA. 151 and Chaves. The estaiicia of Ponce de Leon is on the Arrojo del Gato. The peninsula or proaiontory of Point Santiago is famous for producing ■excellent peaches. The land in this partido is uniformly valued at $350,000 per square league. Total valuation $15,000,000, against $8,000,000 in 1862. Contribucion tax $60,000. Stock returns— i8, 530 cows, 28,441 horses, 3,487 line sheep, 899,260 mestiza sheep, 3,056 Creole sheep; being an average of 1,000 cows, GOO horses, and 18,000 sheep per square league. Population— 2,400 Argentines, 223 English, 194 French, 125 Italians, 122 Spaniards, 6 i Germans, 12 various: total 3,140. The Irish congregation numbers about 500, and is under the charge of Rev. Mr, Mullady, Avhose district also includes Magdalena. There are in the partido 78 houses and 826 ranches, including 27 pulperias. There are 4 alcaldes, 22 teuientes, 12 police, and 371 National Guards. Agriculture is rather backward, there being only 95 small chacras. The camps of this partido are thickly settled with Englislj, Irish, and German sheepfarmers. Ensenada de Barragan, as the po't is called, was used by the early Spaniards, and even up to fifty years ago, as the port of Buenos Ayres. It affords safe anchorage for vessels, but the great difficulty Is the bar at the entrance. INevcrtheless, in recent years we have seen vessels of a 1,000 tons come in here, to take consignmauts of horses for the East Indies and other places. It is the only natural port that the Province of Buenos Ayres <;an boast of, and the depth of water varies from 18 to 24 f^et. Mr. Wheelwright designs the old battery of the Spaniards as the site for his railway terminus. A church and state school are being constructed in the vicinity. At present Ensenada is only used at rare intervals, as a quarantine ground for vessels. Mr. Wheelwright's project is to make a port here, with wharves, warehouses, ifcc, connecting the same by railway with the city. So far back as 1823 this project occurred to the eminent statesman Bivadavia, who commissioned Mr. James Bevans, C.E., to report on the subject, which he did, as follows: — «The difficulties of the present harbor of Ensanada are several : in the first place the bar, which is across the enfrance, makes it necessary for large ships to take advantage of high tide to get in or out, and it so happens that a wind which is favorable to the entrance of a ship into this harbor is a wind which produces low water, and a wind which is favorable for a ship to sail out of the river is contrary to its leaving the harbor. This harbor is one made by nature, and is calculated to hold as great a number of as large ships as can navigate the. River Plate. My opinion is that by stopping up all the channels across the Monte Santiago, the effect will be to enable ^hips to enter or depart with 152 THE SOUTH COAST PARTIDOS. any ^\ind, and to wash away the present bar across the entrance ; my reasons are as follow: a wind which occasions a low tide blows directly into the mouth of the harbor, and tends to prevent the stream of the tide from running out of the same. The consequence is that the tide finds its way out of the harbor through the various channels across the Monte Santiago, keepiug the water with very little motion over the bar ; and, on the contrary, the wind which occasions a liigh tide blows directly on the mouth of the harbor, and thereby checking the current of the tide from running over the bar. The tide, therefore, finds its way in by the channels across the Monte- Now, by stopping up all the communications across the Monte, all the current of the tide and land water will be obliged to run over the bar, the increased activity of which will considerably reduce the bar.)) Mr. Wheelwright's remarks on the subject are no less interesting — ccThe port of Eusenada is thirty-six miles from Buenos Ayres ; the outer anchorage for large ships is protected from the south-east and all dangerous winds, while the inner harbor has a bar which ships of 14 or even 15 feet at full tides may pass, while it is susceptible of being considerably increased in depth by dredging. Within, it forms a peifect basin, which by the same means may be made to accommodate a 1 ,000 vessels, and eventually those of the largest size, perfectly protected from the winds and seas. The present deep water accommodation is ample for the construction of several miles of piers which ships may be able to approach with as much facility and security as in tne most favored port of Europe, and when the railroad is constructed the trains will pass along these piers, be placed in immediate contact with the ships, and discharge and load direct to and from the cars. The Spanish surveys of Ensenada give a very clear idea of the port, and these surveys have more recently been confirmed by Messrs. Antonio Toll, Francisco Segui, and Colonel Murature, commissioned by Government to survey that port, and whose report bears ample testimony of the value and importance of Ensenada as the natural port of Buenos Ayres, and as capable of accommo- dating all its foreign commerce We have also the oilicial proceedings of H.E. Sefior Bivadavia, who, during his administration, ordered a survey to be made by a distinguished hydraulic engineer, who came from Englantlby his express order to survey Ensenada, and whose report recommended a canal to be cut, to connect it witn the city : certainly no higher testimony can be needed. In 18()3 I instructed John Coghlan, Esq., to survey Ensenada, and his report fully sustains the foregoing testimony. In 1822 I had the good fortune to visit Ensenada on tM o occasions, once in a ship Avith a draught of 1 4 feet of water, audi made up my mind at that time that it was to ':ccomc the port of Buenos Ayres. After the lapse of forty-one magdale:vere confirmed. On my return to England I caused a comparative m,ap to be published of Ensenada and the Clyde. I remember navigating the C!yd» in 1837, in steamers of 400 or 500 tons, and meeting with constant obstructions from the shallowness of the river, while now it is the channel for ships of 4,000 or 5,000 tons, and all this from the effect of dredging, the same operation as will be needed in Ensenada to constitute it a port of much greater capacity than the Clyde, as is clearly shown in the comparative map referred to. The locality of Ensenada as an entrepot for Buenos Ayres is favorable : the land, it is true, is low, but susceptible of being drained; the swampy fringe lying between the firm ground and the proposed pier- may be filled when necessary, while the creeks which intersect it will assist the drainage and accommodate the traffic of small crafts and boats.)) Formerly there was a town at Ensenada, of which some traces remain,, as well as of some saladeros of the olden time. A road was begun from hence to town, but never finished : it is to be hoped that the saladeros of Barracas Avill be trrnsferred hither, which Vtill impart some life and activity to the neighborhood. Near the port there are a dozen houses, and the remains of an old battery. Near Ensenada are found large deiwsits of shells, which make excellent lime ; and the adjacent country abounds in game. The state schools are attended by 25 boys and 26 girls. Ensenada is famous for a great naval victory by Admiral Brown. Ensenada is eight leagues N.W. of Magdalena, ION. of the Sanborombon,. 9| E.N.E of San Vicente, 8 E. of GIcw Station, and 9 E.S.E. of Lomas de Zamora. Justice of Peace, Don Ignacio Correa ; Postmaster, Don Lisandro Nuilez. Municipality, four members, ^o Standard agency in the tovfn. Magdalena. Situate uineteeA leagues S.E.of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 124 square leagues, and comprises 13^ estaucias. The partido extends 22 leagues along the coast in a S.E. direction, from Arroyo del Pescado to the mouth of the Sanborombon : this coast line includes Point Atalaya, Point Indio, Point Memoria and Point Las Piedras : at Point Indio there is a light-ship for vessels to steer by, in coming up or down the River Plate. In many places the coast is covered with a thick plantation or (cmonto) i54 THE SOUTH COAST PARTIDOS. The folio wiag are the principal estancias : Name. S. Leiiijuee. Name. 3. Leagues. Pifiero, family, 20 Ojea, . . . i €. Fernandez, 3 Maldonado, i Miguens. family, 5 Echeto, .... f MontesdeOca, family, 3 Figueroa, .... i * Rebol, family. .. H Suarez, I Malchon, .... H Morales, .... i Villarino, .... H S. Fink, .... i Cajaravillc, 1 Elizabe, .... I Ramos, family. 1- Butierres, * . . i Bueno, .... i Preciado, .... 1 Molina, family, 1 Escribano, .... G Alniiron, .... i Chaves, 2 Acevedo, .... f Canal, family. 2 Sampayo, .... i R; jN'ewton, .... H Yasquez i Salas, f Sanchez, .... i Machado, family, H Yelazco, i Martinez, .... n iJello, i Cepeda, . . . • t Alonzo, .... 1- Salomon, .... i Velasquez, .... 1 4 Yillalba, i Maciel, .... 1 R. Simons, .... . . . . i Romero, family, 7 H. Thompson, i Bloujan, .... If Sra. Bavio, . . . . 2 J.S. Fernandez, 4 G. Carmans, . . . . f Otamendi, ' li y. Achaval, .... 1 Lopez, family, H ■ Y. Alba, * 31. Ocampos, I P.Hamilton, H lllescas, family, 3 Bolino, .... . . . . 1 Comez, family, If J. Malcom, H Arze, family. H Plowes, .... . . . . ir Aguilera, .... 1 Larredia, .... . . . . 1 Yillcgas, family, i The Pifiero estancias lie along the coast from Point Las Piedras to the TOOuth of the Sanborombon, forming Avhat is called the Rincon dc!Vuario,and taking in the «montes)) of Luis Chlco. Veloz, and Gutierrez. Another large property is that of Don Sisto Fernandez, also on the sea-boards it goes by the name of Espiritii Santo, and is traversed by an arroyo called Canadon Grande. South of Point Indio are the estancias of John3Ialcom, R. Fernandez MAGDALENA . 1 55 aud Escribano: that of Hamilton is more inland, and the Chaves estates are in the vicinity of Todos los Santos, an affluent of the Sanborombon. The lauds of >'e\vton, Rebol, and Achaval are watered by the Canada Larga : while those of 3Ioujan, Romero, lUescas, Cajaraville, and Monies de Oca, lie nearer the coast. The Arroyo Dulce traverses the lauds of Martinez, Velazco, Miguens, and Lopez : theArrovo del Pucsto traverses tlie Otameudi estaucia; both ihese fall into the Sanborombon. The camps of Magdalena are in general low, but well suited for sheep, and the prices realized for wool are higher than in any other partido. The land is valued at §100,000 per square league; total valuation §39,000,000, against §15,000,000 in 1862. Rents are high, and land diliicult to be obtained, but it is a favorite district of sheep-farming, and the English and Irish population exceed^ 1,500. The Irish Catholics are visited by tlic Rev. Mr. Mullady. Comrau- iiicatiou with Buenos Ayres kept up by tlie Southern Railwiy, a diligence plying regularly between . Magdalena and Ferrari Station, a distance of thirteen leagues. The returns of stock are — 8G,000 cows, 9»,800 horses, 570,000 mestiza sheep, 7,000 Creole sheep, and 4,900 swine ; being an average of 700 cows, 800 horses, and 5,000 sheep per square league. Population — ^12,813 Argentines, 1,583 Spaniards, 748 English, 197 Germans, 334 French, 242 Italians: total 15;807. There are 40 houses and 633raiichos, iucluding 73 pulperias. There are G alcaldes, 23 tenientes, 12 policemen, and 1,129 National Guards. Agriculture is in its infancy, there being only 36 chacras, covering altogether about 1 ,000 acres of tillage : the obstacle to agriculture is the want of proper roads or conveyance for produce. The village of Magdalena consists of thirty-nine houses, sis. shops, a church, state-school, inn, brirk-k:)n, and several ranchos, with a population of 2.000 souls. The best houses are those of Arreaga, Gondra, Fejeiro, Miranda, .Des, and Abrega, valued from §100,000 upwards. The state- school is attended by thirty boys and sixty-three girls. The village is distant a league from Point Atala;. a. on the sea-board; it is situate on a lagoon which empties its Avaters by the Arroyo de Atalava. 3Iagdalena figures among the smaller ports for coasting traffic : the annual port returns show a total of 90 vessels, with an agregage tonnage of 2,290 -tons. The formation of the new partido of Rivadavia will deprive Magdalena of one-half its territory, reducing it to a coast-line of six and a half leagues by ten and a half leagues in depth to the Sanborombon river. Magdalena rs distant five leagues N.W. of Point Indio, eight iV. of the Sanborombon, sixteei E. of San Vicente, and eight and a half S.E. of Ensenacla. 1 56 THE SOUTH COAST PARTIDOS. Justice of Peace, Don Jose Maria Migaens ; Curate, Bev. Angelo Garibaldi; Postmaster, Don J. Yburra ; StewtZan/ agent, Mr. Richard Simons; Munici- pality, four members; Municipal revenue, $150,000; Coutribucion tax, Si 56,000, lUvadavia. This is a new partido recently formed in the Rincon de Nuario, between the southern districts of Magdalena and the River Sanborombon, covering a superficies of about sixty square leagues. It commences at the Miguens estancia, a little north of Point Indio, and follows the coast down to the mouth of the Sanborombon. It comprehends the estancias of Sisto Fernandez, Malcom, and Escribano, and the vast territory of the Pifieros. The lands of ChaveS, Otamcudi, HamiLtou, Thompson, Molina, and others, are also included in this new demarcation. There arc no returns of stock, population, &c., afl these being included in the partido of Magdalena. The partido takes its name from the eminent statesman Bernardino Rivadavia (A.D. 1820), who introduced almost every measure of progress and improYjment that Buenos Aj res can boast of : he died in exile, at Cadiz, but his remains were afterwards treated Avith extraordinary honors and are now lodged under a splendid mausoleum at the Retiro Cemetery. The new partido is bounded on the N.W. and W. by Magdalena, on the S, b},the Sanborombon, and on the E. and IN.E. bv the Biver Plate. There is no town or centre of population. The Rincon de Nuario is 12 leagues S.S.E. of Magdalena, and about the same distance E. of Chascomus. CafitdU. Another new partido, situate on the sea-board, about 35 leagues S E. of Buenos Ayres, was hitherto included as a part of Tordillo. The partido has a coast line of ten leagues from the mouth of the Rio Salado to the Arrovo las Vivoras, and it extends inland about twelve leagues, to the borders of Dolores : the area is ahout seve!)ty s;juarc leagues. There arc numerous lagoons, some of which have excellent lisii that come down from tlie Rio Salado by the Encadcnadas lakes. CASTEI.LI. 157 The principal estaacias are- — Name. s. Leagues. N.ime. S. Leagues. Saenz Valiente, 15 H. Martinez, .... I Martinez de Hoz, 16 Sotelo, I bias, family, 4 1 Gomez, i Botet, ..... ♦ i Tapia, family, 2 Agiiero tt Co., •i i 1 Gonsalez, family. 2 Mendoza, .... I 1 Pereyra, .... 2h^ Carreras, .... i : Anchorcna. .... 2 Villaiba, i : Almiron, li Sacrist i, .... .3 i Reynoso 1 M. Alzaga, .... 6 ' Reyes, . i Alvarez, H The most important estancia is that of Messrs. Martinez de IIoz: it is called the Araza, and comprises various establishments, that s^o by the names of Mercedes, San >'icolas, Sebastopol, Espcranza, San Jose, Villanueva, &c. There are fifty-two pucstos on the ground. The estancia-house is a fine comfortable residence, where one of the owners constantly lives : it has two large «galpones,)) and extensive plantations and meadow farm. Several of the puestos have also good plantations. The first introduction of fine German sheep was in the time of old Mr. Martinez de Hoz (A.D. 1837), and since then the blood has been maintained by new importations of Negrettis, some of which have been personally chosen by one of the brothers Martinez out of the cabana of Hochlitz in Moravia. The stock of this estancia comprises 100,000 sheep, 15,000 cd'ws, and 4,000 horses. The Negrettis rams arc pure blood, and their offspring are often sold by auction in Buenos Ayres. The various wools are classified on the estancia, baled and despatched direct for Europe, via Southern Railway to Buenos Ayres : the Chascomus terminus is twelve leagues from the estancia. The horned cattle are being much improved by introducing the Durham breed, and there is already a good sized «rodeo)) of cross breeds. The attention paid to improving the breed of horses is no less noteworthy, and several fine stallions were brought from England in 1868. There are few Argentines more earnestiv dedicated to the progress of their country than the Messrs. Martinez de Hoz, whose establishment in Cafiuelas is also an honor to Buenos Ayres. Besides the Negretti rams they have imported the Lincoln and Leicestershire breeds, while their Durham cows and prize draught horses call equally for admiration. They obtained a medal for their wool at the Paris Exhibition of 1867. Don Jose Martinez de Hoz was one of the leading men who founded the Sociedad Rural Argentina, and his 158 THE SOlUTH COAST PARTIDOS. name is identified with all the material interests of the country. The Araza estancia has a population of 250 souls, including several Irish and German families. On this estancia ^^c find the lagoons of Cainpameuto, Salada, Lastra, and Troncosa. The Saenz Valiente estancia is at the Bincon de Lopez, between the Rio Salado and the sea-board, with a coast line eight leagues in length. There are some large montes, called Riojanos Grandes and Riojanos Chicos, besides that of San Antonio . 'There are two passes across the Rio Salado, commu- juicating with the Miguens cslancias in the partido of Biedma ; they are <-alled Las Piedras and El Rubio Tiburcio, the latter about four leagues up from the mouth of the Salado. Don Martin Alzaga has a large estate at La Postrera, on the Rio Salado: the estancia-house is a fine building, surrounded with a natural plantation of tala trees. The lands are washed by the Salado for four leagues, and there are four passes across the river, viz. : Postrera, Conchas, Villar, and €allejon. It is proposed to put a bridge over the river, which will be a ^reat gain to all the districts I.ying southward, la the far south of this estancia is a large lagoon called Lake Almiron. The partido of Castelli, though comparatively little known, has an. institution that other wealthier districts cannot boast of, namely, an orphan asylum! This is part!} supported by Government, partly by the local revenues, and imrt!> bv the neighbors: it was founded by Don Federico Martinez dc Hoz, the picscnt Justice of Peace, and is under the dedication of Santa Isabel: there are IS bovs and 16 girls, who are cared and educated by a master and his wife. Tordillo. Situate about forty leagues S.E. of Buenos Ayrcs, has an area of forty- sii square leagues, and comprises ten estancias. The estancias comprised in Tordillo are — Name. S. Len Previous to the new demarcation of 1864 this partido had an area of 100 square leagues, comprehending the territory which now forms the district of Castelli. The partido lies along the coast, in a S.E. direction, for a distance of six. leagues, from the Arrovo de Vivoras to the Canada de Ajo, all which territory belougs toDonToraas Anchorena. Going inland we find about five leagues from the coast the forest of Tordillo, which extends S.E. from the town of Dolores for a length of sii leagues. Most of the Anchorena property is low and marshy, but inland there is a gentle slope running due south. The estaucias of Vallejo, Ramirez, and Moreteareon the borders- of the Tordillo wood: those of Laferriere, Madrid, aud Boer are adjacent to the Canada de Ajo, and near its mouth is a small holding belonging to one Fulcos. The land is valued at $250,006 per square league. The returns of valuation, stock, population, etc.., are according to the old division of the partidos. The total landed valuation in I8B5 was $12,000,000, against $6,000,000 in 1862. Coutribucion tax, $18,000. Stock returns— 85,874 cows, 32,280 horses, 4,800 fine sheep, 150,830 raestiza sheep, 1 5,300 creole sheep, and 1,425 swine. There are 10 houses and 725 ranchos, including 58 pulperias. Population — 1,048 Argentines, 22 Spaniards, 16English, 21 Italians, 4 French, 3 Germans, 2 various, 1 Indian: total 1,117. The foreign settlers have, however, much increased since the above returns. There are 6 alcaldes, 12 tenientes, 9 police, and 410 National Guards. As yet there is no attempt to establish a town in this partido. Municipal revenue $24,000. Justice of Peace, Don Mariano Mendiburo. The western part of this partido is only four leagues from the town of Dolores. Some laud in this partido was sold by auction in the early part of 1869 at $150,000 m{- per league. AJ6. Situate forty-six leagues S.E. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 103 square leagues. The partido has a coast-line of 20 leagues from the port of Tuyu, round Cape San Antonio, to the Monies Grandes beyond the Saladas lakes. The lands here have been settled in the last few years, and are now overstocked ; several people have moved off with their flocks for the Sierra Baudrix and other places. The principal estancia is that of Gibson Bros., which goes Jby the name of Los Ingleses : it lies between the Arroyo de Ajo and San IGO THE SOUTH COAST PARTIDOS. Cleinente on the sea-board. The town and port of Tuyu, otherwise called Lavalle, is on this ground: the town consists of a wooden church, three wooden houses and five or six. pulpcrias. Gibson's estancia is often \isited by strangers from England : the stock comprises over 60,00Q sheep, and the establishment is conducted in a most orderly manner. The estate has a ■diversified superficies, the parts near the sea being low and marshy, while those inland have some thick montes, such as Zalazar, Palenque, and Cisneros : there are also some lagoons, and besides the Arroyo de Ajo are the smaller streams of San Cleraente and Fijeras. This fine property covers over 50,000 acres English, and there is a good number of our countrymen fcere. The partido comprises the following estancias : — Name.' S. Leufjues. Name. S. Leagues. dibson Bros., .... 8 Cordoba, .... t Leloir, .... 13 Luque, .... ^ Pardo, .... IG W. Gilmour, 4 Cobo, .... 18 Fernandez, .... 2 Campos, H Cabrera, .... 2 Falcon, .... H Rodriguez, H dirardo, family, 2 Alvarez, .... \i Puertas, .... f Mendez, .... I Diaz, family, 1 George Bell, 3 duzman, .... i F. Blanco, U Escobar, .... H S. Bello, .... 2 Suarcz, family, .... 7 Diaz, family. 1 Sanchez, .... H Acosta, .... i iiorosito, .... — 1 George Palmer, 1 Ii;arra, .... — 1 Patrick Moran, n Quinteros, .... .... I Mr. Giln^our's estancia forms the Rincon de Aj6, between the cafiada of the same name and the port of Tuyu. It is much smaller than the Gibson estate, but also Avorthy of a visit : Mr. Gilmour has another property at Canada de Boreja, also in this partido. The Leloir territory lies along the ocean, at Cape San Antonio, about seven leagues in length by two in width : the surface is diversified by sand hills called Medanos del Plata, sundry lagoons and cafiadas, and a dense thicket at the Rincon de Carnero. Messrs. Leloir have 60,000 sheep. Six leagues inland is the large estancia of the Pardo family; it is a quadrangle, four leagues on each side: the camps are wild, woody, and thinly settled ; southward is a hill called Espuela Ver-de, and there is a AJO. 161 lagoon called Dos Talilas. The adjoining estancias of Don Juan B. Peua were formerly in this partido, but they are not included in the new demarcation. Manuel Jose Cobo's lands stretch along the sea-board, from Cape San Antonio to Montes Grandss, and are baundsd westward by the Saladas lakes ; this property is abaut seven leagues long by two and a-half wide, and contains the lagoons of La Limpia, Barrancosa, and Mate, and the arroyos of Espiritos and Cangrejal. The coast-line from Medano Blanco to Rincon de Hormito consists of sand hills. Most of the inner parts of the country arecovered with woods. Thelandinthispartidois valued at 3 150,000 per square league. Total valuation $17,000,000, a-aiust $10,000,000 in 1861. Contribucion tax. $68,000. Stock returns — 1'>4,970 cows, 34,669 horses, 920 fine sheep, 579, 23 i raestiza sheep, and 78,533 Creole sheep; being an average of 1,600 cows, 350 horses, and 7,000 s^eep per square league. There are 30 chacras, covering an aggregate of 1 ,500 acres. Population — 2,498 Argeniines, 97 English, 92 Italians, 66 French, 84 Spaniards, 30 Germans, 55 various: total 2,922. There are 132 houses and 668 ranchos, including 30 pulperias. Tlierearc 6 alcaldes, SOtenientes, 12 police, and 316 >'ational Guards. The port of Tuyi'i or Lavalle, is good for coasting craft, being just two leagues up the Ajo river, from the ocean : the trade returns show seventy- four vessels arrived during the year, with an aggregate tonuage of 3,079 tons. It is very convenient for passenger and goods traffic from Buenos Ayres to this part of the south, as the journey overland is much more tedious and exijeusive. There arc two grasecias here doing a large business, and the neighbors speak very highly of the proprietors for honorable and straight- forward deal'.ng. At Messrs. Bubio's olEce all information as tosaiiagof vessels can be obtained. Tuyu is 38 leagues S.S.E. of Ensenada, 17 S. of the mouth of the Bio Salado, 12 E S.E. of Dolores, and 4 W.of the ocean at Cape San Antonio. Justice of Peace, Don Gervacio Garcia. Tuyu, Situate about sixty leagues S.S.E. of Buenos Ayres, is a new and thinly settled district, nearly 100 square leagues in area. It extends along the Atlantic for twelve leagues, from Montes Grandes to Mar Chiquita, with an average width of eight leagues. ll 163 THE SOUTH COAST PARTIDOS. There arc thirteen estancias, viz. :- Name. S. Leagues Martin Alzaga, .... 20 Anchorena, .... 20 Aguirrc, 12 Leloir, 12 Herrera, .... .... 5 Serantes, .... .... 3 Villegas, | _ Name. " S. Leagues. Subianrre, .... 6 Peiia, .... .... 4 Lastra, .... 6 Trelies pros., .... 3 Sigismundo, .... .... 2|^ Gomez, 1 Public lauds, .... 2 These lands were formerly included in the department of Monsalvo, and the partido is not yet fully organised ; there is neither Justice of Peace, municipality, townsliip, curate, schools, nor church, and it is necessary not to confound this partido with the town of the same name in the district of Ajo. We hiive no returns of population, stock, or other statistics. The land is valued at $250,000 per square league : total valuation, $22,000,000 ; Coutribucion tax, $88,000. Alzaga's estancia of Montes Grandes extends southward from the Saladas lagoons, along the sea-board as far as Monte Oliva onthe borders of Leloir's estancia. The country is wild and thickly wooded; there are numerous lagoons, and the coast-line consisls of sand-hills. Leloir's lands are bare and desolate ; the Arroyo Chico flows through the southern part, which goes by the name of La Argentina. The rest of the coast-line is occupied by Anchorena's lands near the Laguna de Gongora ; the Arroyo Gallinas also waters this part of the district. Messrs. Anchorena have another and larger estancia west of Montes Grandes: it lies between Isla Hedonda and Laguna Mostazas. The estancias of Lastra, Subiaurre, and Pefia, lie ])et\vecn Montes Grandes and the borders of 31onsalvo. Sladame Anchorena de .Vguirre has a large property at the Tres Louias; Trelies Brothers at Los Patos; the Herrera family at Avestruces: all these are in a southerly direction near Mar Chiquita. The estancias near Montes Grandes are famed for raising the best creole horses in the country, and Don lienjamin Subiaurre is said to have 500 tame horses on his land. Montes Grandes derives its name from the thick forest that covers this part of the country. Mar Chiqvfta. Situate about seventy-five leagues south of Buenos Ayres, is another large Rnd uewlv-settled district, with an area of about 1 10 square leagues. MAR CUIQUITA. 163 There are fourteen estancias, viz. : — Name. Anchorena Bros., Andrea Anchorena, Seflora Aguirre, F. Gomez, .... C. Barbosa, Peralta Ramos, Senora Ybafiez, S. Leagues. 30 14 9 7 3 2 U Nam. Bernal Bros., Lorenzo Torres, Bamon Ezeyza, Jose Ezevza, V. Ezejza, V. Sosa, . . . . G. Barbosa S. Lcagaea. 8 6 9 5 6 li 1 Atlantic, and The most The coast-line extends for more than nine leagues along the the partido goes inland an uniform depth of twelve leagues remarkable feature is the Mar Chiquita, a gulf vrhich has a narrow embou- chure on the sea-board, and stretches inland m a N. direction for about five leagues; its greatest width does not exceed a league. Anchorena's property of the LomadeGongora contains about twenty-four square leagues : it is situate on the sea-coast, about 76 leagues from Buenos Atres, 2G f«"om the port of Tuyu, and 1 5 from the Laguna de los Padres ; it is crossed on the eastern side by the Arroyo Chico, and on the southern by the Arroyo Grande, which two streams, after numerous windings, form a junction a short distance before reaching the Mar Chiquita. The land is generally flat, but owing to its being traversed by so many arroyos it is never|flooded for a long time. This large estate belonged for many years to Messrs. Plowes & Co., and a portion of it is now rented to Dr. William Holder, whose majordomo is Mr. Thomas Reddy : a good business is done in fattening horned cattle for the Buenos Ayres market, and selling sheep to the «graserias» of Aj6. Goin« southward we meet the lands of Jose Maria Ezeyza, which are traversed by the Arroyo Vivorata, and further south along the sea-board is the Estancia Harmonia, belonging to Don Lorenzo Torres: in this last mentioned the arroyos of Santa Helena, Los Patos, Seco, and Los Caeros fall into the sea. The Estancia Vivorata lies N.W. of the arroyo of that name, and beloni>s to Messrs. Bernal: it has several lagoons, called Estrella, Rodeo-"^rande, Blanqueada, and San Pascual. North-west of San Pascual is the ;lar«^c estate of Senora Anchorena de Aguirre, which is bisected by the Arroyo Grande, and has also a lagoon called Arbolitos. The estancia of Carrolanquen lies westward of the last-named, and belonijs to Messrs. Anchorena, who have rented it out to a number of shcepfarmers : it takes its name from a lagoon so called, the word being of Indian derivation. The lagoons of Chilca, Loma Verde, and Mojon are also ^>^^00,000; Contribucion ta\ $60,000. The estandias of Ocampo, Agiiero, Pinedo, and Ponce are >'. of the Canada del Yecuio, adjoining the Auchorena estates of Pila; the intermediate boundary is the southern highroad to Tandil. Eastward we find the lands 4 4 \ 4 2 1 X 1H8 THE FAR SOUTH PARTIDOS. of Fresco, Ituralde, Lara, and Pereyra, all bordering on Monsalvo. The estaacias of Castafio, Puyol, and Garcia are on the southern border : and in the centre of the partido are tliose of Rodriguez, Pizarro, Olivares, Sosa, &c., all watered by the Vecino. The lagoons are small and too numerous to mention. Of late years some Englishmen have started as sheep-farmers in this partido, but their number is inconsiderable. The latest otiicial returns are so far back as 1850, and are as follows : — Population — 1,515 Argentines, 19 Spaniards, 9 Italians, 7 English, G French, 2 Germans, G various; total l,56i. There are 3 houses and 420 ranchos, including '2\ pulperias. Stock returns— 101, .300 cows, 2.3,260 horses, 11,500 fine sheep, 58,000 raestiza sheep, 60,200 creole sheep, 400 swine. It is worthy of remark that the Creole sheep exceed the mestiza class in this partido : nevertheless the district has progressed of late years, and the above returns can hardly now be regarded as correct. There are 3i chacras under fruit, vegetables, and grain, comprising altogether about 5,000 acres. There are 5 alcaldes, 13 teuientes, 12 police, and 290 National Guards. The partido has neither town, church, nor schools. The nearest towns are — Dolores 8 leagues N.E.; Ranchos 23 leagues N. ; Azul 30 leagues W. ; and Tandil '2\ S.W. Justice of the Peace and Postmaster, Don Juan Vitcn. Monsalvo. Situate about fifty-two leagues S.S.E. of Buenos Ayrcs, has an area of eighty square leagues, and comprises the following estancias : Name. . t E. Ramos Mejia, M. Ramos Mejia", Sefiora Ramos de Madero, Seuora Ramos de Elia, Celina Alzaga, . . . . J. B. Pefia, Lastra, .... Fran. Pereyra, . . . . Felix Pereyra, . . . . Rodriguez, . . . .' . . . , Areco, . . . , •Leagues. 8 8 10 10 5 4-1- H 1 1 1 9 Kame. Diaz, Acosta, Gonsalez, F. Madero, John Logan, E. Varela, Invaldi, Arosa, Centurion, Soriano, S. Leaguee. 5 5 1 • 1 1 I T i MO>SALVO. 169 The partido is bounded on the north by Dolores, on the west by Vecino, on the south by Mar Chiquita, and on the east by Tuyii. The country is low, marshy, and in some places thickly wooded : there are numerous lagoons, at least forty of some magnitude, the largest being that of Caquel- Huincal. The forest of Monsalvo is near the borders of Tuyii, only four leagues distant from Monies Grandes. Monsalvo had an extent of 150 square leagues before the formation of the new partidos : the district has made little progress in recent years, the number of foreign settlers being comparatively small. The family of Ramos Majia own nearly half the partido, their estijncias lying along the highroad from Dolores to El More for a length of eight leagues : this is the same family of Ramos Mejia that has such handsome suburban properties betw3en San Martin and the river of 3Iatanzas. The estancias of Juan R. Pefia at Monte del Ghancho, of Lastro at Lake Gontreras, and Acosta at Lake Monsalvo, are in the vicinity of Monsalvo wood : Logan's property adjoins that of Lastra. The Alzaga estancia is situate between two lagoons called Talitas and Las Toscas : that of Juan Antonio Areco lies southward, in the direction of Mar Ghiquita^ near Lake Quelquoheincul. The lands of Diaz and Gonsalez are near Monte Taucho, which is only an offshoot of the forest of Tordillo. The smaller properties of Yarela, Pereyra, Invaldi, &c., are situate in a marshy country between Loma Partida and the borders of Ayacucho. Monsalvo is distant only .eight leagues from the Atlantic sea-board, the intervening country being the forest of Montes Grandes and partido of Tuyu. The land is valued at 3200,000 to $250,000 per square league ; total valuation, $17,000,000 ; Gontribucion tax, $68,000. The statistical returns are those corresponding to Monsalvo before its territory was reduced by one-half in forming the new partidos. Population — 8,509 Argentines, 295 Italians, 250 Germans, 1 \d French, 107 Spaniards, 77 Euglish, 53 Indians, 137 various : total 9,577. There are 25 houses and 753 ranchos, including 43 pulperias. Returns 'of stock — 258,000 cows, 41,141 horses, 357,000 fine and msstiza sheep, and 459,000 Creole sheep. Agricultural returns — 98 chacras, covering about 3,000 acres. There arc 9 alcaldes, 36 teuieutes, and 12 police. There is neither town, school, nor church in the partido. The centre of the district may be considered 14 leagues S.W. of Ajo, 12 S. of Dolores, 28 E.JN.E. of Tandil, 1 '. N.IN.W. of the Mar Ghiquila, and 22 N. of Laguna de los Padres. Justice of Peace, Don Euiiliano Aguirre ; Postmaster, Don Luis Me re ado. 170 THE FAR SOUTH PARTI DOS. Ayacucho. Situate about 56 leagues S. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 115 square leagues, and comprises the following cstancias : — Name. S. Leagues Name. S. Leagues. Castafio, .... 16 Senillosa, .... 9 Ortiz Basualdo, .... 7 Mayol 3 B. Subiaurre, 9 Bebol, 3 Lezama, .... 6 MirO, 7> Mouasterio, .... .... ' 4 Yignal, .... H Ferreyra, .... .... 2i ((Cacique Negro, » ^ Iraola, family, 16 B. Gomez, .... 4 Girado, family, 6 Bargas, 9 Morales, .... H D. Gomez, .... 1 Diaz, .... Bisuarra, .... 4 Lopez, Barrientos, .... 1 Garay, 1 Percyra, family, .... 2 Bargos, Salinas, 1 Fernandez, .... Jose Henrique, H The partido is bounded on the jN.E. by Vecino, on tlie N. W. by Arenalcs, from wliich it is separated by the highroad to Tandil and Arroyo Tandileofu; on the S.W. by Tandil; on the S. by Balcarce ; and on the E. by Mar Chiquita. it is one of the new partidos, and takes its name from the decisive victory over the Spaniards, which established the independence of all South America, It is watered by the Arroyo Chico, or Napoleofu^ and a number of lakes, viz : — Hinojal, Cacique iVegro, Barrancosa, Piedra, Cortadera, Loma Alta, Pozo de Fuego, Animas, Juncal, Esperauza, &c. This partido was formerly an integral part of Tandil, and is not yet pi-operly organized. It is a wild and thinly-settled country, lying about midway between the Sierra de Tandil and the shores of the. Atlantic ; the sea-board is thirteen leagues E. from the nearest point of the district. The estancias of Castafio and Yraola lie S.E. of the Arroyo Tandileofu; the first goes by the name of Hinojal, the second is called La Beconquista. Near the banks of the same stream we find the Cacique Negro, formerly belonging to Don Nicolas Coronel, but more recently sold by auetionto Sefior Cabo and other purchasers. The adjacent lands of Yignal were for some years occupied by two English sheep-farmers from Australia, who have since returned to England. This part of the country is not much in fiivor amongst foreign settlers. Lezama's property at the Juncal is traversed by the Arroyo Quetreleofu, and further south are the lands of Bebol and AREiSALES. Ill Ferreyra. The estancias of Basualdo. Miro, and Subiaurre lie N. of tbe Arroyo Cliico, and this stream also waters the estate of Senillosa and Girado families. Nearer to the «sierras)) are the lands of Bargas, Gomez, Diaz, Ternandcz, «fcc. The cstaucias of Monastcrio and Bisnarra are on the Arroyo Tandileofu. There is neither town, church, school, nor Justice of Peace in this partido, nor have we any statistical returns, as these "will be included in the returns for Tandil. The centre of the district is distant thirteen lea.q:ues E. of Taudil, 22 S.W.of Dolores. 18 N.W. of Laguna de los Padres, 18 W.N.W. of the Mar Chiquita, and 26 E.S.E. of Azul. Tlie journey to town may be made in tln-ee days ; first day on horseback to Dolores, second by diligence to Chascomus, third by rail to Buenos Ayrcs. Postmaster, Don Martin Linera. Arena fes. , Situate about fifty -t^Yo leagues south of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 135 square leagues, and contains the following estancias :— ^ Kame. S. Leagues Name. ts. Leagues Pereyra, .... 20 Aroyo, 8 Seilora dc Lezama, .... 17 Balbin, .... .... 5 Diaz Yelez, 20 Yraola, 4 Rufino, family, 16 G. Lezama, .... 4 Vela, family, 12 Alvarez, .... 2 Pourtale Bros., 4 Godoy, 5 Dominguez, .... 2 Miguens, family. .... U Rodriguez, I Palacios, 1 Merlo, .... .... n Gonsalia, .... I Corbera, 2 Rivas, U This is another of the new partidos, and its boundaries are — north Pila,. west Ranch, from which it is separated by the Arroyo Langueyii; south Tandil, and east Ayacucho and Vecino. The only water courses are the Langueyn on the N.W. and the Tandileofu on the S.E. ; there are numerous lagoons, but none of them of any importance. The Arroyo Langueyii seems a continuation of the Canada del Vecino, and here the country is low and marshy : the rest of the partido is wild, open camp, at present but sparsely settled. The highroad from Dolores to Tandil forms one of the southern boundaries. TRe largest estancia is that of Don Eustaquio Diaz Velcz, who 172 THE FAR SOUTH PARTrDOS. «wns immense landed properties all through the south. Of almost equal extent is the estate of Don Leonardo Pereyra and the other heirs of Simon Pereyra, deceased. The estancia of 3Ime. Alzaga de Lezama is on the Arroro Quetreleofu. The lands of Pourtale, Merlo, Gonzalia, and Rivas lie north, near Laguna del Chancho. The large properties of the Vela and Riifmo families are watered by the Langueyii. The Iraola and Balbin cstancias are in the centre of the partido ; and southward, on the banks of the Tandileofii wc find those of Aroyo, Alvarez, Godoy, and others. The partido, when first formed (in iSGI), had an area of 29G sqiiare leagues, but it has been stripped of half its extent, in forming other more recent partidos. The oflicial returnsof I86i areas follow : Population— 3,517 Argentines, 330 Spaniards, 313 French, 9i Italians, 37 English, 5 Germans, 19 Indians, 5,330 various: total 9,645. There are 8 houses and 1,187 ranches, includ- ing 39 pulperias'. Stock returns— iG6,000 cows, 73,198 horses, 5,752 fine sheep, 1,272,577 mcstiza sheep, 138,035 creole sheep, and 472 swine. There is no town, school, or church in the partido, but the Government has subscribed $160,000 towards building a state school ; the centre of the district is distant 13 leagues N.E. of Tandil, 21 E. of Azul, 19 S.W. of Dolores, 23 S. of ihe Paso de Rocha on the Rio Salado, and 32 W. of Cape San Antonio on the Atlantic sea-board. Justice of Peace, Don Felipe M. Brizuela ; Postmaster, -Don Martin Linera. Municipal revenue, g 100,000. Ranch. Situate about 46 leagues S.S.W. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of 1.45 square leagues This is another of the new partidos, and takes its name from the valiant Colonel Ranch, a German by birth, who began his campaign against the ludians in 1822 : during several years he performed a succession of brilliant exploits and drove the savages far into the desert, conquering an immense territory for the purposes of industry and colonization. He was at last treachously abandoned by his own men, and perished in the midst of a glorious and useful career. The boundaries of the partido are — N. Las Flores, from which it is separated by the Arroyos Gualichu and Azul ; AV. Azul ; S. Tandil, and E. Arenales and Pilu. The district is well watered : the Chapaleo.fu is a larg/s stream traversing the partido from north to south; IIAUCII. 173 an affluent of this river is called El Pantanoso. The Laugueju on the east, and the Gualichu, Azul, and Arroyo de los Huesos on the west, are alsa considerable water-courses. There are sundry small lagoons, such as the Barrancosa, Posada, Cerones, Chilcas, ^'auyu, Colorado, Baeyes, and Espadafia. The partido comprises the following estancias : — Name. Yela, family, Diaz Yelez lldaquiola, .... Casal, R.Basualdo,. . . . Portela, .... Centurion , .... Rojas, .... Echeverria, .... Licate, Public Lands, iN'uuez, Holdan, .... Medrano. .... Juan D. Diaz, The Vela territory lies between the Langueyu and the Chapaleofu,. comprising twenty square leagues, besides twelve square leagues on the other side of the Langueyn, already mentioned in the partido of Arenales. Southward and also on the banks of tiie Chapaleofu is the Diaz Yelez estate, one half of which is in lile manner in the next partido, the whole forming tiiirty-five square leagues of land. The Udaquiola property is called Estancia de la Compafiia (perhaps it belonged once to the Jesuits) : it is near the Laguua Colorado, and the Chiclana estancia adjoins. Santa Fiosa is another large estate, formerly belonging to Messrs. Lannusse Bros, and Don Juan B. Peila, and now the property of Don Calixto Moujan : it is westward of the Chapaleofu, lying between that river and the Arroyo de los Huesos. Southward and between the same rivers are the 'ands of Alzaga and Rodriguez. Monte Gualich.u is on the arrovo of that name, and in this neighbor- hood are the estancias cf Rojas, Ortiz, Hasualdo, Echeverria, and the public lands. In the centre of the partido we find Casal, Martinez, and Serpa ; on the borders of Pi!a are the Silva, Casalins, and Letamendi estancias. There are no statistical returns ; a portion of this partido was formerly included in Azul, and the rest belonged to Pila. There is neither church. S. Leagues Name. •20 Rodriguez, .... 15 Alzag^, 12 Jose Chiclana, . ^ S. Chiclana, 1 Silva, family, Y, Basualdo, .... 4 Letamendi, . . . . 4 Casalins, . • .3 J. Martinez, . . . . .3 M. Martinez, . . . . 14 Genova, . . . . 1 Gonsalez, . . . . i Serpa, family, 2 Dominguez, . . . . 1 Calixto Moujan, S. Leaprues. 7 5 5 4 8 2 4 2 2 H I I •7 174 THE FAR SOUTH PARTIDOS. 6OJ100I, nor town in the district: the centre of the partido is distant ti ieagues N. of Tandil ; 15 E. of Azul ; 38 W. of Gape San Antonio ; and 20 S. of Terrero's bridge on Rio Sahido. Justice of Peace, Don Francisco M. Letamendi. Azul, Situate fifly-five leagues S.W. of Buenos xVyres, has an area of nearly 40O Name. t>. Leasjues. Name. 1 S. Jjbaguett. Llavaliol, .... H) L. Gox, 5 AnchorenaBros., 12 P. Martinez,. . . 3 Acosta, .... 12 Barda, 3 JRosas, .... 12 M. Roldan, ... 4 Iturralde, .... 4 Pefialva, •> Botet, B. Roldan, . . . 3 Leloir Bros,,. ... 7 Aguirre, 2 M. Martinez j. ... () Gutierrez, 2 • Vidal, 5 Gordoba, 2V Viton, .... 2 Islas, H Doniinguez, family, •J . . Murua, ... 1 Ulloa, family. 4 W. Grierson, . . . . f H. N. iNicholi-on, li Zarate, family, '2 William Laurie, 2 Julian iMartinez, H Palacios, .... \i Mosquera, .... I Lahitte, .... . . .3 John Freres,. . . . . . Alcantara, family. 3 Munoz, ... 3 Luques, .... Mendicta, . . . . H Mancilla, family. 5f Percdo, . . . . . n Planes, family, 3^ Pardo, family, . . . . 7 Pondal, .... li Santos, . . . . n Sotuyo, .... . . 2i Peter Tenor, . . . 1 Varela, li Serantes, family, . . . . 4 Hocha, U Beynoso, .... . . . . H Miuana, family. 4| Lavao, .... . . . . H Gomez, family. 31 Gorrca, .... . . . . H Brid, H Arista, family, 2i Alvarez, family, H ylvila, _ . . . . . . . . H Alvarado Bros., u Aristegui, .... . . . . n Thomas Tucker, f Joseph Gordon, . . . . X AZDL. 175 Besides the above there is a number of smaller holdings called «Los, Suertes del Azul,» each comprising three-quarters of a square league of land: they are 252 in number, viz. : Alvarez, Alicate, Ararao, Aguilar, Almada, Avalos, Acosta, Aguirre, Berdun, Baigorrca, Balcarce (2), Bardas (2), Baldovino (2), Ballesteros, Belgrano, Burragan, Balvidares, Burgos (3), Bustos, Coronel (2), Cabrera (2), Calandria, Chaves, Castellanos, Carabajal, Castro, Cejas, Carmona, Dhcrs (2), Diaz, Espinosa (2), Echagiie, Figueroa, Fillon (2), Ferrcvra, Fernandez, Guzman, Gousalez (2), Guerrieo, Guedes, <}enova (3), Garro, Galvan, Grigera, Giles, Hornos (3), Hcrrera, Huertas, Izcta, Ibafiez, Lopez (3), Lujan, Lara, Leiva, Leal, Lencina, Lasota, Merlo, ftledina (3), Maldonado (2^, 3Iaya, Moron, Moutenegro (2), Martinez (2), Mendez, Morua, Marquez, Matas, Navas (i), Ocampos, Olivera, Preciado, Prado, Pulllsa, Ponce, Perez, Peralta, Pozo, Biovo, Bodriguez (8), Binun, Boja«, Bomcro, Boldan (3), Sequeira, Salas (2), Sayago (2), Silva (1), Bamirez (0), Solano, Tenor, Bustamante, Ulloa, Urbina, Urquijo, Uran, Vega, Villalba, Villarnel, Zavala, Zurita, Carriso, Celaya, Luna, and 104 others, covering altogether an area of 1 89 square leagues; These suertes surround the town of Azul, and are -bounded on the E. by the Arroyo Cortaderas, and on the W. by the Talaquen river: they extend in a straight lino from the borders of Las Flores, in a S.W. direction to the desert, for a distance of twenty-two leagues. The Azul river flows through the midst of them, and in the south there is a barrier of hill-ranges separating them from the Indian pampas : these liills are designated Sierra Bcdondo, Pcreguiuo, Sotuno, and Baya, and three leagues further out stands Fort Perdido, in a Canada of the same name ^ The estancias of Llavallol, Yiton, Vidal and Dominguez are situate between the Arroyos Cortadcros and Los Huesos, on the borders of Tandil. Further south in the hilly country we find Cox, Acosta, and Anchorena, the last-named in the vicinity of Cerro Colorado. The frontier line runs S.E. along these hills, from Sierra Quillalauquen (in the adjoining partido of Papalquen) to Sierra la Tinta near the head-waters of the Quequen •Grande, about twenty-four leagues from the ocean. The distance from Quillalauquen to the Sierra Tiuta is twenty-six leagues: about seven leagues E. of Quillalauquen is Fort Perdido, and four leagues further E. we meet Fort Miuana, built on the estancia of the Mifiaua family, near Lake Nutria : four leagues S. is Fort Otameudi, beyond the frontier line, and there are numerous estancias for some leagues even beyond this fort, which is near a lagoon called LaBarrancosa. These estancias are Martinez, Boldan, Aguirre, Gutierrez, Barda, Penalva, &c. ; and between Fort Otameudi and tho fiontier we find the settlements of Dbu Felipe Botcl and Senorlturralde, 176 THE FAR SOUTH PAUTIDOS., iu the vicinity of Cerro La Plata and Cerro Cauete. The large estate of the late Prudencio Rosas lies east of the town of Azul extending as far as Arroyo Corina. The properties cf UUoa, Cordoba, and Islas are on the banks of the Arroyo Los Huesos. This part of the country until recently suffered much from Indian incursions, but is now comparatively unmolested. Numbers of young Englishmen are settling down here, as land is abundant and cheap : some have sheep-farms on rented lands, others occupy themselves in fattening cattle for the city market, and in this way young men of limited capital and active habits find a better start than in any other part of the River Plate territories. Azul, however, is not without its drawbacks, in the lawless state of society at present existing. One-third of the inhabitants- are what is termed «tamc Indians,)) but a worse feature is the number of escaped vagabonds prowling about the frontier. The laud is suitable both for sheep and cattle. The olHcial valuation is $120,000, and some English farmers have bought from Government at $'60,000 per square league; but sales , between private parties generally go as high as 3'250,000; total valuation $57,000,000, against $34,000,000 in 1861 ; Coutribucion tax $228,000. Population — 5,502 Argeiitines, 2,760 Indians, 91 i French, 503 Spaniards, 230 Italians, 53 G-rmaos, .56 English, 166 various ; total t0,2i9. 'there are 387 houses and 1,988 ranchos. Stock returns — 822,700 cows, 77,99 i horses, 20,627 fine sheep, 812,023 mestiza sheep, 427,680 creolc sheep^ and 1,472 sv.ine; be.ng aa average of 2,000 coas, 200 horses, and 3,000 sheep per square league. There are 9 alcaldes, 29 tenientes, 14 police, and 350 National Guards. There is a considerable amount of land under cultivation, comprised in 147 (•acras, with an aggregate of nearly 100,000 acres, ^ The town of Azul has longbeen a plice of trade and importance on the Indian frontier, and the head-quarters of the Government forces in the south. Before the Paraguayan war the garrison comprised 100 cavalry and 550 infantry of the Line, besides National Guards auxiliaries. In former years the place suffered much in the Indian wars, and it was besieged by the savage tribes only twelve years ago. It is now a rising town of 5,000 inhabitants, situated on the Azul river and surrounded by chacras. There are a church, schools, 162 shops and houses, a barrack, two mills, several brick-kilns, and some well-planted quintas. I'he best houses are those of Aguerribem, Brid, Bolondo, Chay(5, Corneillc, Mallet; Medrano, Auiran, Bastos, Bclagoni, Cedrun, Ibarra, Ireverria, Lasalle, Leguisamon, Pereda, Payro' , Perez, Meabe, Rodriguez, and Vichy, valued from $70,000 u;)wards. The mills are those of Dhcrs and Riviere. The TASDIL. 177 -.state-schools arc attended by 75 bo}s and 73 girls. The municipality iuteud to build new school-houses, town-hall, and prison, for which purpose they h^ve <>'200,000 lodged in bank. The Provincial branch-bank of Azal was established in 1867, with a capital of $3,000,000 nicvfor the districts of Azul, Rauch, Tapalqucn, Tandil, and INecochea. The principal trade of the town is with the Indians, who sell stolen hides, rugs of their own manufacture, skins of beasts. &c. ; the store-keepers pay them partly in liquor, but the authorities wisely take their arms from them before getting intoxicated. Governor Alsina in 1867 tried to prevail on the Indians to move further out, bat their «tolderias» are pitched close to the town on the very estancias sacked by them in 1855. The foreign residents very often do police-dutv, and they have recently asked the Government for a supply of 400 muskets. The town has a municipality of four members ; municipal revenue $110,000. .Azul maybe reached in 2} davs from town, via Southern Railway to Alta- mirano station, whence the diligence starts on arrival of the morning train; the distance from Altamirano to Aznl is about forty-two Wgues. Azul is Hituate 12 leagues E.of the Sierra Quillalanquen, IG N.W. of Tandil, 52 from the sea-board, 38 W.S.W. of Dolores, 21 S.W.of Las Flores, and 9^ S.S.B. of the town of Tapalquen. Justice of Peace, Don Jose 31. Medrano; Curate, Kev. Eduardo Martini ; Postmaster, Don Manuel G. Bonorino. Tandil. Situate 60 leagues S.S.W. of Buenos .\yres, has an area of 165 square leagues. The parlido is bounded on the X.E. by Arenales and Ranch, on the T^.W. "by Azul, on the S.W. and S. by Necochea and J.oberia, and on the E. bj Balcnrce. About eight leagues beyond the Tandil is the Sierra Tinta, where some excellent marble has been found ; Dr. Uurmeister classifies it as ft.Vrgentiue agate marble. » Sefior Borjcs made explorations in 1864, and found the marble lying from twelve to twenty feet below the surface, and assuming different colors according to its depth : the veins extend for a great distance and are very accessible for waggons. The owner of the land (Senor Vela) advanced Borjes £100 for the enterprise, but the latter failed to get up ft company, and the idea has not since been taken up. Before the Mil nS THE FAR SOUTH PARTIDOS. formation of the, new partidos of Necochea and Balcarce the extent of Tandil was over 400 square leagues. The latest statistical returns are — Population — 1,50G Argentines, 535 Indians, 3 4 Spaniards, 21 Italians, 10 French, G English, 5 Germans, 2G various ; total 2,1 43 : these, however, can no longer be considered exact. Stock returns not given. There are four houses and eighty ranches, also 27 chacras. The partido is little known to foreign residents : we are indebted to an English sheep-farmer of Tandil for the following account, of this remote territory : — " The Hat intermiuable plains wliich exist over the rest of the Province of Buenos Ajres are here diversified by tlie sierras, the ridges of A^hich present an agreeable vista to the eye of the traveller, wearied by the monotonous scenery of the pampas. The sierras give birth to several beautiful streams of fresh, sweet water, the principal ol' which are the Canaleofu, the liuesos, the Arroyo Tandil, &c. These streams after running some fifteen or twenty leagues lose themselves in iagunas and cwampy grounds. The pasture in this district is less refined, and the grasses coarser than nearer Buenos Ayrcs, and. consequently not so well suited for sheep, but cattle do very \jell on them. The estancias are principally owned by native gentlemen, and have been but little subdivided, so that they are mostly from three to eight square leagues in extent ; many are rented, the owners f/nding it more profitable than stocking the lands themselves. The rent varies from 5^15,000 to Laurie, San Javier. A number of Danes, principally cmploved in agriculture, reside near Tandil. Most of the store and hotel- keepers are French, and great numbers of French Basques reside in the (•(RuUrv, The best hotel in Tmdl I is the Caf6 de la Piedra ; the charge are reasonable, and the accommodations good." The partido comprises the following cstancias : — Name. y Miguois, .... .... Vela, Gasarcs, .... .... Ed. Lumb, .... .... Gonsalcz, .... .... Avaios, .... .... Almada, .... .... Ptnero, .... .... Paz, llamos, .... .... Gomez, family, .... Saenz Valiente, .... E^iipcz, .... .... IXival, ^5o!auet, • . • • .... The Duval e^;tancia, situate on the Arroyo Ghapaleofu, was recently sold at auction by 31r. Billinghurst for §2;»0,000 per square league, the houses and corrals being taken at a valuation. Tandil is situate 10 leagues S.K. of Azul, '28 N. of the mouth of the Qiie4|uen Grande, 27 N.W. of Laguna de los Padres, 32 S.W. of Dolores^ 2li S. of Las Florcs Justice of Peace, DonGarlos Durragueira; Curate, Bev. Jose M. Rodriguez; Postmaster, D. Mcanor Klizalde. The state-schools are attended by 57 boys and 45 girls. Valuation of lauded property $30,000,000, agaioiit ^20,000,001) in 1862. Goutribuciou tax $120,000. a;!;uL'a. Name. S. T.,eaa;no«. 12 Anchorena, .... 3 12 Machado, .... 4 12 Girado, .... 2 6 A ranee, 1 2i Alguuaras, .... 1 2 Arana, .... 1.") U Iraola, .... .. . 6 3 Cordoba, .... G 1 Saavedra, .... 13 1 Bamircz, 5 18 Uriarte, .... 5 ; Butler, .5 G Urraco, .... 11 4 Morales, .... 1 4 Ponce Leon, .... 1 BALCARCE. Balcarcc. 181 Situate seveutj-four leagues south of Bueaos Ayres, has an area of 210 square leagues, and coutiiius the following estancias : — Name. S. li^agu?^. Kame. S. Leagues wSociedad Rural, » 30 Suarez, 8 J. B. Pefia, .... ' 18 Anchorena, 9 Lezama, 15 Saenz Valiente, family 2i Percy la, .... 8 Otamendi, family, 5 Baudrix, 11 Casco, family. ... ' 4 Peralta Ramos, .... 12J Trapani, family, 10 Subiaurre, .... 3 Campos, family, S Vivot, 3 Escobar, 3 Llanos, 2 CastelU, ... 2i N. Johnstone, U iSero, ... 2,^ Burgos, 4 Barragan, .... 2 Reynoso, .... 2 Luengo, .... 2 Moyano, .... 1 Sanchez, 3 Sueldo .... 4 Amarante, .... 4 Deodiia, ! Ca-iiet, U Castro, 1 Lobo, .... i- IslaSj i Site for town, 11 This is another of tl 10 ni>w nartidn s. and fnrmfrlv known a? > T,a£»tina de los Padres. Its boundaries are — on the east the Atlantic Ocean, on the north Mar Chiquila, on the west Ayacucho, and on the south Loberia. The western boundary runs for some distance close to the Arroyo Chico, or Njp-i!eofu : the southern boundary consists of the Sierra del Vttlcan, its branches (the sierras Barbosa and Vigilancia), and the Arroyo Chocorl, which falls into the .^tlantic eleven leagues south of Cape Corricntcs. The so.iboard extends for fifteen leaguos, taking in Loberia Chica, Cape Conientes, and the mouths of seven large arroyos, viz. : La Tigra, Carolina, Hallenera, Totora, Durazno, Brusquitas, and Chapalraalan. A great part of the d strict is occupied by ranges of hills, the principal of w hich are the Sierra Yn!can and Sierra de los Padres. The former seems a continuation of the Tandil range, and there is a fertile valley intervcnini; which the Indians call Vulcan or «the opening,* and hence (says Parish) is derived the name of the range which runs eastward in a continuous line for thirty- six, miles to the sea. wTowards the north it has the appearance of a steep wall: on the summits are extensive ranges of table-land, well watered, and with good pasturage. At a short distance from the coast the hills break off 1 82 THi: FAR SOUTH PARTIDOS. in stoii} ridges, running down to the sea, and forming the headland of Cape Corrieutes, in latitude 38d. Gm., and further south a line of rocky cliffs, which bounds the shore as far as Cape Andres.)) These hills give birth to most of the streams that irrigate the camps of the partido. Thirty yearti ^go this part of the country was over-run by the Indians, but now it is perfectly secure : the estancias are on a large scale, well stocked with sheep and cattle, and the partido is in fact a large grazing farm, from which are brought every year great herds of cattle for the city markets and the sahideros. The lands, especially near the sea, are considered the best in the south. The estanciaof the late Sociedad Rural is now mostly the property of Messrs. Martinez de Hoz ; it lies southward of Cape Corrieutes, and the coast abounds in seals (otherwise called sea Avolves), which will before long give rise to a lucrative business Jn the skins and oil of these animals. On the same land there are also some chalk quarries. On the same line of coast are the estancias of Otameudi, Campos, Trapani, and Peralta Ramos, intersected by the arroyos already mentioned. Inland, covering a great extent of hill country, from Sierra de los Padres to Sierra Barbosa, are the Saenz Valiente estates; while those of the Suarez family are northward, on the Arroyo Dulce. The large possessions of Peiia, Anchorena, Lezama, and iJaudrix are situate on the two chief branches of the Arroyo Grande ; the Estancia San Simon, of Don Leonardo Pereyra, is on the Arroyo Chico, near the borders of Tandil. The smaller properties of Vivot, Ninian Johnstone, Llanos, Barragan, Subiaurre, Camet, &c., are in the vicinity of Laguna de los Padres. In 1'47 the Jesuits founded a settlement on the lake which still preserv(is their name, situate four leagues inland in a IN.W. course from Cape Corrientes. The site was well chosen, being suitable for an agricultural establishment, of easy access to the sea, and offering every facility for defence. The Fathers were unable to reduce the wild pampa tribes to habits of order and industry, and the establishment was abandoned after tea years of unavailing labor. Some remains of the buildings, and the fruit trees planted by the Jesuits, still remain. The lake covers about two square miles in extent, and is surrounded by thick plantations. About three leagues eastward, at the moulh of Arroyo Cardalito, near Loberia Chica, a .site has been marked out for a town, and there is a port suitable for vessels of .son^e size. Don Patricio Peralta Ramos has asaladero hereabouts, where he slaujihters cattle, mares, and sheep : he expended some money on aa iron mole, which has never been finished, but which was much injured in a heavy storm last year. lobi:r[a. 183 Laguua de los Padres is situate 7 leagues S.W. of the Mar Chiquita lake, ^20 N.E. of tlic raoulli of the Quequeu Grande, 75 E.N.E. of Kahia Blanca, 70 E. of the Sierra la V^entana, '27 S.E. of Tandil, and 35 S. of Dolores. It is four days' journey from town. Justice of Peace, Dou Pedro Bouchet ; Postmaster, Don Juan A. Pe&a. Municipal revenue, $23,000. Lobsria. Situate about seventy -five leagues south of Bueuos Ayres, has an area of 190 square leagues, and comprises the following estancias : — Na'Tie. S. Leagues Name. S. Leaguea. Guerrico, 10 E. Diaz Velez, 10 S. Valiente, fomily, 10 Martinez de IIoz & Sons, 10 Peredo, G Lastra, 5 Saavedra, .... 6 Luro, .... 7 Guesta, .... . . . 5 Alegre, 6 Gobo, 6 Arruda, .... 6 Dasso, .... 6 Barbosa, family. 9 Casta nera, .... G Otamendi, — . 10 Martinez, 2 Rico, 3 Sabatte, 2 Eustaquio Torres, . n- Faramifian, l| Flores, .... 3 Qu in tana, .... U Maldonado, .... 2 James Gay nor, 2 Pita, 2 Suarez, .... 2 Otero, 2 Gaudara, 2 Machado, family, 5 Oainard Bros., 2 Ortega, ii F. Arze, 6 Sotelo, .... 1 A. Diana, 2 Rcynoso Bros., 3 Carlos F. Casares, . . 31 Pieres, 3 Galiano, .... 2 Picado, 2 Vega Bros., U Albarellos, 2 Mafioz, .... 1 Perez, 1 J. N. Fernandez, 10 Macias, 1 The partido is bounded ^n the north by the Arroyo Chocori, whick separates it from Balcarce, on the west by Tandil, on the south by the River Quequen Grande, separating Loberia from >'ecochea, and on the east 18 i THE FATi SOUTH P.VRTIDOS. by the Atlantic. It has a coast lino of ten leagues, and here debouch three large arroyos, the Nutria Mansa, Malacara, and El 3Ioro. The partido' extends inland twenty leagues, till reaching the sierras of Tandil The Sierra del Vulcan forms the NAV. boundary. The lUver Quequen Grande is fed by a number of large streams, such as the Quequen Chico,Quclacinta, Mostazas, Los Huesos, Tamangucyu, and Arroyo Seco'. The Quequen Grande falls into the Atlantic t'yenty-two leagues S.AV.of Cape Corrientes: there is ii bar at the mouth, but the river has usually, a suRicient depth of ^'ater for vessels of some burden. The late Colonel Miguel Martinez de Hoz ascended the river, in ISol, with the steamboat Buenos Ayres, laden with cargo, as high as his estancia of El Moro, and returned in tb.e same way with a cargo of wool and hides. This river is one of the most considerable in the province, and Y»as for many years regarded as the frontier limit south «vards. So late as 1853-51 the Indians caused much annoyance to the settlers, but now the whole coast is settled as far as Bahia Blauca and these camps offer every advantage, especially for cattle farming. Before the formation of the new partidos Loberia had an area of 1,300 square leugues, of which only 306 were held by settlers, the rest being public land, or rather Indian territo?\y. The camps arc rich and fertile, and famous for raising the largest cattle in the province : in winter time this partido supplies the city markets almost exclusively, the other partidos having little or no fat cattle at that season. The sea coast is lined -with sandhills, but the adjacent lands are. very riclj. The land of this partido is valued fioin <; ISO. 000 to $250,000 per square league; total yaluation, $32,000,000; Contribucion tax, $128,000. The rent for camp is $20,000 per league per annum. The Sociedad Uural had an estancia of thirty square leagues situate between the Arroyo Chocori and El Moro, along the sea coast; part of it now belongs to Messrs. Martinez de Hoz ; this land is well watered and fertile. EI Encanto belongs to Sefior Guerrico, and this lies between El Moro and the Quequen. The estancias of Cobo, I?arbosa, and Arruda are on the Quequen Chico. Those of Cuesta, Saavcdra, and Otero are on the borders of Tandil, amidst the hill country ; and at the foot of Sierra Yulcan we fuid Fk)res, Alegrc, Sabatte, Castanera, Blco, Peredo, and Saenz Valientc. fn the centre of the partido, traversed by the Arroyo Taman- gueyu,arc the estancias of Arze, Otamendi, Machado, Dasso, and others. The Ccrro Bcdondo, on the Faramifian estancWi, is a detached group of hills almost midway between the Sierra Yulcan and the Tandil range. Thi.^i partido, more than any other, abounds in hills and water courses. >ECOCHEA. . 185' The statistical returns are — 3,029 Argentines, 139 Spaniards, 50 French, 46 Italians, 15 English, 8 Germans, 78 various ; total 3,365. There are 2 houses and I,02i ranches^ including 3 shops and 77 pulperias. Stock — 1, 050,96 i cows, 118,780 horses, 3,850 fine slieep, 297,100 mestiza sheep, 87,900 Creole sheep, and 592 SAvine. It will be remarked tliat in this partido cows tire much more numerous than sheep, and as a consequence few foreigners have as \et settled here. There arc 44 chacras, covering 2,000 acres of tilled land. There are 5 alcaldes, 2i tenicntcs, and 18 police. It is proposed to build a town, probably at the mouth of the Queqnen Grande, aud this point will be distant 88 leagues S. of Buenos Ayres, 15 S. of the Sierra Yulcau, 28 S.S.E. of Tandil, 58 E. of Bahia Blanca, and 20 S.W. of Laguna da los Padres. Justice of Peace, Don Eustaquio C Torres, who is alsp postmaster. NccocJiea. Situate about 80 leagues S.S.W. of Buenos A\res, has an area of 420 square leagues. This is another of the new partidos, and not yet fully organized : neither have we any statistical returns, as it was formerly comprehended in the partido of Lobcria. Theboundaries arc — on. the N.E. the Queqnen river,, which separate* this partido from Loberia ; on the N. the Sierras of Tandil ; on the N.W. the Azul frontier camps in the direction of Sierra Quillalanquen ; on the S.W. and S. the partido of Tres Arroyos; and on the S.E. the Atlantic. The partido has a coast-line of sixteen leagues from the moutlt of the Quequcn Grande to that of Arroyo Cristiano Muerto : it extends inland thirty-two leagues to Fort Otamcndi on the Azul frontier It is watered by the numerous affluents of the River Quequen and Cristiano Muerto ; the principal streams are Calaveras, Colangueyu, Pescado-Casti- gado, Wendoza, Zavala, and Cortaderas. Tlie country is more level than in the nei;:hboriug partidos : there arc numerous lagoons, of which the largest is that on the estaucia of Messrs. Herrera, Saavedra &c Co. ; there is a hill called Malaltue in the middle of the lake. Few habitations aud little or no timber are yet seen on these wild camps, which were until recently the hunting-grounds of the Indians. The Diaz Velez territory lies along the sea-board, south of the Quequen river ; this stream may be forded at Pa<30 Galisteo, about six leagues from its mouth, and one and a-half below the confluence of the Quequen Chico : the estancia of Don Manuel J. Cobo 186 THE FAR SOUTH PARTI DOS. occupies the dilta of the last-n^iQied stream and the Quequeu Grande : there is another ford on this estancia, called Paso dc Otero, about bix leagues isighcr up than the Galisteo pass. The partido comprises the following estancias : — Name. S. Leagues. E. Diaz Velez, .... 35 Alzaga, .... .... 13 Anchorena, family, 12 Arcco, .... .... 12 Hornos, .... .... 12 Echeverria, .... .... 8 V. Canal, 6 Lara, .... 7 Lanuz & Grisol, .... 10 Total, 5 Montes de Oca, 4 Vasquez, .... .... 4 Rodriguez, .... 6 Girado, .... .... 3 Santa Maria, .... .... 3 Viton, family, .... 7 Tloque Perez, .... G Larrosa, .... 4 Chaves, .... .... 6 Larriba, .... 6 Ezeisa, .... .... 6 P»ico, .... .... 5 i^erreyra, .... 3 P. Obllgado, 1 Vicra & Real, .... 4 F.Torres, .2 luvaldi, .... .... 2 Olivares, .... 1.} Raymond Prat, 6 The large estancia of Juan Nepomuceno Fernandez is traversed by the arroyos Calaveras and Colangueyu. Near the hilly country of Sierra Tinta and the Taudil we find the lands of Vela, Ortiz, Domingucz, and Udaquiola. The Anchorena property is further Avest, at a point called Cinco Lomas. On the Indian frontier we find John Cornell, Chaves, Larriba, Hornos, and Areco. Returning eastward by the Arroy* Name. Olivera, family, iNegretto, .... Arze, family, Juan N. Fernandez, Fulco & Rebol, Cobo, .... Vela, family, Lopez, Iraola, Lastra', • . Echenegncia, Udaquiola, . . Subiaurre, . . Ramirez, Casal, M. Perez, Hejrera & Co. Ortiz, Dominguez, . Cailas, Cornell, Rauza, Faramiilan, . Pizarro, Rom, Ortiz, Casas, Public lands, S. Leagues. 18 6 10 30 11 6 22 12 12 16 10 7 3 2 2 6 12 4 3 3 . . %k 4 2 2 . 2i 2^ 3 16 TRF.S ARROYOS. 187 Pescado-Castigado we meet on the north of this stream the estates of Iraola, Lastia, Cafias, and Prat ; south of the stream arc Echenegucia, x\lzaga, Lanuz, and Olivcra. On tlie north bank of the Cristiano Muertoare Invaldi, Torres, Perez, Olivarcs, Ramirez. Subiaurre, Santa Maria, and Girado. Or the sea-board there is a higoon called Saladas, on the estancia of Marcclino Rodr ignez : the coast is lined with sand hills. The best site for a town would perhaps beat Paso Otero, on the Quequea Grande, about twelve leagues from its mouth ; this point would be thirty- six leagues E. of Sierra Pilla-Huinco ; II S.W. of the Sierra Vulcan; 2'^ W.S.W. of Laguna de los Padres; 19 S. of Tandil ; 38 S E. of Quillalan- quen : and 52 E.N.E. of Bahia Blanca. Justice of Peace, Don Luis Somosa ; Postmaster, Don Alberto Marquez ; Municipal revenue, §9,000 Tres Arroyos. Situate about 100 leagues S.S.W. of Buenos Ayres, has an area of about 600 square leagues This is another new partida, hitherto supposed to belong to Loberia or Bahia Blanca, but for the most part Indian country. It is now more than half settled on, and comparatively safe from Indians. The boundaries are, N.E. the Arroyo Cristiano Muerto ; iV. Indian territory; W. the Sierra Pilla-Huinco; S.W. the river Sauce Grande; and S.E. the Atlantic. The coast-line is twenty-four leagues long, from the mouth of the Cristiano Muerto to that of the Sauce Grande. The rivers Tres Arroyos and Quequen Salado traverse the whole partido and fall into the Atlantic. There are few lagoons worth noticing, except that of the Sauce Grande, on the river of that name, about fourteen leagues E. of the town of Bahia Blanca. The fort of Tres Horquetas, situate at the confluence of the three branches which form the Tres Arroyos river (called by the Indians «Claro-meco») was for some time the utmost point of the south frontier ; and here it is now proposed to build a town which will be called Olabarria. The estancias marked with an asterisk are situate between this line and Sauce Grande. The Queqnen Salado runs parallel with the Tres Arroyos, and is about six leagues further south. The Sauctf Grande passes within eight leagues E. of the town of Bahia Blanca. The Sierra Pilla-Huinco, forming In part the western limit, near the head-quarters of the Sauce Grande, is distant only twenty leagues from the sea-board ; the Sierra Curamalal it a continuation of the same range westward ; the Sierra Ventana lies S.W. beyond the Sauce Grande, and is about twelve leagues from Bahia Blauca. f88 THE FAR SOL'TH PAIITIDOS. The higlicst peak of the Veutana range, by Fitzroy's measureraeiit is 3,350 feet above the level of tiie sea, from which it is distant forty-live miles: it is 2,500 feet above the level of the surrounding plain. Tarish mentions a small stream flowing between the ranges of Ventana and Cura- malal, which bears the nam? of Ingles->Ia!hnida,fiom the circumstance of an Knglishiuan having been put to death here bv the Indians. The partido comprises the following estauclas : — Name. S. Leiigiu^s. Name. Vasquez, family, 23 Olabarria, .... . . . . Elizalde, .... .... G Herrera, .... Macias, .... 6 Pereyi-a, family. Soaje Bros., .... 12 Jardin, Baigorria, .... 6 Viton, .... Dantas .... G Pintos, .... j^iig. Kohl, G Mar en CO, .... Valdcz, Bros., .... G Jose Lopez, .... Aldao, .... 6 Guevara, .1). Segui .... 7 Soler, Lefrancois, .... 5 Subiaurre, .... F. Moreno, G Letaraendi, .... Uriartc, .... .... 4 Garcia, .... Vivas, .... .... •> Rosotl & S. Valiente, Noreiga, .... 2 Perez, Diaz, .... .5 M!ga2ns, .... Appelanes, .... 4 D3Scaizi, .... Duran, .... . . . .- 4 Anchorcna, .... George Sanders, ••> .... •> Echencgucia, Miro, family, 8 E!ias, Brizuela, .... 3 Sala^^. & Co., , . Cardenas, .... .... <> 'Ovejcro, Bernardes, .... •> .... o A!varez, Casariego, .... 3 '"Ai'zac, Machaly, .... 2 Ochoa, .... Genova, family. 2 Cliiclana, .... Caparros, .... 1 'Gomez Bros., Bustamante,. . . . I Saravia, .... Rodriguez, .... () W. Vela Puyol, 4 "Felipe Vela, Madero, .... 6 Leon Vela, Casas, family, 8 Unsettled lands, BAHU BLANC A. 189 The sivteen estancias marked w ith an asterisk are public lands, the boldefs having only a squatter's right. The new town of Olabarria will be 91 leagues S.S.W. of Bticnos Ayres, 36 S. of Azul, 18 E.S.E. of Sierra Pilla-IIuinco, 30S.W. ofTandil,43 W.S.^. of Laguna de los Padres, 10 leagues N. of the mouth of the Ties Arroyos on the sea-board, and 32 E.N E of Bahia Bianca. Justiceof Peace, Don Samuel Roseti; Postmaster, Don Benigno Maciaa. Bahia lihinca. Situate 1 15 leagues S.W. of Buenos Ayres, may be said to have an area of 200 square leagues, taking its limits as the following : north the Sierra Ventana, west the River Sauce Chico, south the bay of Bahia Bhmca and the Atlantic Ocean, and east the River Sauce Grande. This part of the country, though so remote and little known, offers many advantages to settlers, either in an agricultural or a pastoral point of view. The high grounds are usually about 100 feet'above the level plain, the latter being little higher than the sea level. The soil of the high ground is mostly fine and sandy, and beneath this there is lo.sca, which is useful for limestone, or may be employed instead of stone in building houses or corrals. lu the low grounds the soil is rich and alluvial, and well suited for agriculture: irrigat on is easily obtained. All the quintas of the town are irrigated bj a svi^teru of water-works constructed by Rosas in his expedition of 183.T, and it still bears the name «Zauja de Rosas. » The cultivation of wheat is now attaining such dimensions that the crop for 1889 is estimated at 5,000 fauegas. All kinds of fruit trees thrive here remarkably, especially graj>es, and from these is made the Chocoli wine. Nevertheless, the climate is somewhat cold, though more temperate than at Taodil, where peaches cannot ripen. Snow is seen at rare intervals, once in three or four years. The tempetaturc is dry and windy, aad it rains less than at Buenos .\yres : the N.W. wind is the most frequent. On the high and desert camps the grasses are wpastos fuertes,© which grow so wide apart that in wet seasons a soft grass springs up here and there between. The low grounds abound in soft grasses, viz. : alfilerillo, trefoil, trevo de olor, and gramilla : there is not much burr. When land has been three or four years stocked with sheep and cattle the vegetation changes, the «pastos fuertes» gradually disappear, and are replaced by soft grasS; thistles, trefoil, &c. 190 ' THE FAR SOUTH PARTIDOS. • Timber is indigenous ; A\illo\YS of the «sauce colorndow species arc found on the banks of the S:iuce Grande and Sauce Chico, suitable for building or firewood. In the salt marshes near the coast abounds a shrub called Matorro, very good for burning; and on the high grounds are found various kinds of brush>yood, such as cliauar, piquillin, algarobillo, brusquilla, barba de chivo,manco caballo, ifec. INear Saiina Ghica, about lifteen leagues vs-est of Bahia Blanca, there is an abundance of timber, the algarroba being much sought both for firewood and for making corral posts. This dist»'ict is one of the most favored in the province as regards an abundance of water courses. A number of fresh water streams flow from the Sierra Veutana through the low grounds, never running dry at any season. The salt bed of Saiina Chica supplies eKcellent salt, which is gathered in siynmcr : fortunately a stream of fresh w ater runs hard by, for the use of men and animals ; there is also fresh water on the road to Salinas. The tuwn of Bahia Blanca stands two leagues from the port. The entrance to the ba\ is easy; there was a pilot in the time of Rosas, and one is now much wanted. The communication by sea with Buenos Ayres is a gicat advantage, tiie usual iVcight being 3-3 to g5 [)er arrobe. The steamer Patagones, for which AguiiTe& Murga receive a subvention, neglects Bahia Blanca, aiid it is p.-opos^d to ask Government for half the subvention and pi»t on a stcaiUiM' sp 'ciaih for this pjrt. The district of Bahia Blanca has a population of about •2,000 souls, of whom three-fourths reside in the town : they may bccslimut.d thus — 1 . '200 Argentines, 200 Indians, '200 Italians, 100 Spaniards, 50 French, 50 English and Germans, 200 various. There are 177 azotea houses and only 170 ranchos. The garrison usually com- prises 200 soldiers and 120 National Guards, besides which the «friendly Indians)) forma company of seventy lances : these last are under the cacique Francisco Ancalas, who ranks as a lieutenant-colonel, and w hose eldest son holds a resj)cctable post in the Government-house at Buenos Ayres. The Indians of Salinas Grandes frequently come to the town to barter their home-made ponchos and the skins of animals and ostrich feathers. The history of Bahia Blanca is quite modern. In 1 828 the fort was founded by Colonel Martiuiano Rodriguez, who had already founded Tandil. The garrison suffered greatly from privation, sickness, and the Indians, till 1833, when Rosas came into power. The fort was soon changed into atown. a regular service of post-ho''ses was established in all directions, and couriers plied at certain intervals to and from Buenos Ayres. The desert camps were speedily covered with cattle and mares, and all the arable lands up to the Sauce Grande were laid under grain. Business grew up, BAHLi BLAXCA. 191 and Messrs. Vela and other wealthy estancieros came and fonuded large establishments. The fall of Rosas in 1852 was attended with a terrible change; the Indians everywhere spread desolation, carrying their inroads into the very public square of the town : they burned tho ranchos, killed the settlers, and carried off the cattle, so that soon the neighboring hill- sides were occupied by gamas and ostriches. An attempt was made to get up an Italian Agricultural Legio i, but the leader was murdered by his men, and this failed. Mr. Dasso projected an Italian colony on the Sauce Grande ; the first families that were brought out refused to go further than the town. It was only in 1803 that the first efforts were made to re-people the estancias arouud the town. The Naposta valley was the first place settled on, as it was suitable for sheep, and these offer little temptation to the Indians. Instead of ranchos the settlers built substantial brick houses with flat roof and a parapet all round, a ladder from within giving access thereto in case of danger. A man with a rifle can in this manner defend himself and al?o his sheep corral without the Iea.>5t risk. The settler is exposed to lose his hor.ses unless he tie them up at night, Avhich will oblige him to plant alfalfa and keep a stock of hay. The lirst sheep-farmers were : Sig. Caronli, a native of Como ; Messrs. Heusser and Claraz, from Switzerland, who settled in 186 i, in the ?faposta valley, four miles from the town. In 1805 came Mr. Arnold, a IS'orth American, also in the Naposta; in I86G the well-known estanciero >Ir- Itichard Newton .started a farm on the Sauce Grande ; in 186B came also to the Sauce Grande, Messrs. Ilentze, of Saxony, and the following English- men: — John and Arthur Mildred, Edmund Gaodhall, Bryan Smyth, Hcnrj Edwards, Robert Grieve. John Sinclair, Watson, and Shuttle. On the Sauce Chico the first settler was Sig. Bozano, a native of Genoa ; on the Saladillo Mr. Philip Caronti; and finally in 18^>8 the famous Basque estanciero Don Pedro Luro, with his brothers-m-law, F. and T. Prader, started an establishment at the Naposta. There are at present over 100,000 sheep in the district. The climate being dry the xvools are light and not very greasy, but the sheep give more grease when killed than in the north, and the increase of the flocks is .something extraordinary; severe weather being rare there is little mortality of sheep from this cause, except when a night of hard frost occurs, and then some lambs peri.sh. In the present time, when yvool and sheep are low, xvhile land is so dear in the rest of the pro.ince, no district offers better advantages for new beginners than Bahia Blanca and Patagones. The cheap and ready transport afforded by sea renders the price of all necessaries of life, such as provisions and clothing, much cheaper than in any other part of the camp. As soou 102 THE FAR SOUTH PARTIDOS. Hs foreign trading vessels can come here direct, and load and unload along- side the wharf, the price of imported goods will be cheaper than at Buenos A;yrcs. The cheapness of freight to Buenos Ayres also enhances the value of wool, which sells here at double the price obtainable at Tandil. Mean- time there is an anomaly in the wheat-trade ; the wheal is mostly sent to B'lenos Ayres, and flour is brought back thence for use of the luiiabitants; there are at Bahia Blanca some «atahonas)) or mills worked by mules, and a water-mill on the Naposta, somewhat out of repair. Near the town of Azul there are some large water-mills which drive a brisk business; it ii every way likely that a similar enterprise at Bahia Blanca would pay well: the Naposta has always a splendid water power, and with the outlay of a little capital the annual crop of 5,000 fonegas of corn might be ground on the spot instead of being exported to Buenos Ayrcs. The district, moreover, offers every advantage to industrious puesteros who wo:'.Id devote their leisure hours to cultivating a patch of wheat, maize, zapallos, or vegetables. There is at Bahia Blanca an unpretending inn, but Englishmen usually put up at the house of Mr. George Little, a North American, who has one of the best shops in the place. The Comandante, Colonel Jose Llano, is also very kind to strangers, as well as the J ustice of Peace. Don Mariano Mendez, and Captain Coronti. The principal wholesale houses arc thoise of Francisco Bozano, Mariano Mendez, Galvan ifc Co., Julian Calvente, Miranda, and B. Costa. Parties wanting waggons may apply to Santiago Bonfiglio or Manuel Echagues, the first a Lombard, the second a Basque ; both are worthy of all confidence, and their charges are reasonable. Tiiere are no livery stables in the place, but if the stranger wish to make an excursion he must look up Hypolito Bramajo, Cayetano Arze, or J. Bustos, who have always fine relays of hors'es at a reasonable charge : these men are experienced guides and most trustworthy fellows. If the visitor wish to push his excursions some distance into the Indian country he will do well to hire an Indian guide, and the most trust- worthy arc Pedro Lucero and Jos6 Andres Milipil; the latter is brother-in-law to the Cacique Ancalao. These -men also serve as guides in making the journey overland to Patagones, adistanc^ of over forty leagues. Tiie traveller must be careful in hiring any other guide thaiithe above-named, unless well recommended by Mr. Little, Scnor Coronti, or the Justice of Peace. Bahia Blanca is only »15 leagues overland from Buenos Ayres, bat the distance by sea is double. The land journey is so tedious and difficult a» seldom to be undertaken : there is no mail-coach service. The sea voyage varies according to the weather, and may be reckoned at five days. PATAGOfiVES. .193 Justice of Peace, Don Exequiel Real de Azaa; Postmaster, Don Sixto Laspiur. Municipal revenue, $16,000. The state schools are attended by o4 boys and 42 girls. The port returns show 21 vessels, with 1,665 tons burden. Patagones. Situate 160 leagues from Buenos Ayres, comprehends the tail-end of the South American continent, from the Rio Negro to the Straits of Magellan, between the 41st and 53rd degrees of south latitude, and 65 and 72 west longitude, the eastern boundary being the Atlantic, and the western a snowy range of mountains called Cordillera de Nieve, a prolongation of the Andes chain. This vast territory is about six times the extent of England : it is as yet for the most part unexplored. The first impressions of the Rio Negro, as the traveller proceeds up the river towards the port of El Carmen, are highly agreeable: the bluffs on the north side are about 150 feet high, and the valley is about two leagues w ide, the river winding its way picturesquely between the cuchillas of sandstone. Mr. Harris had a sandstone quarry from which he got material for sidewalks. There is also plenty of tosca and anargillaceous clay proper for making tiles, as also a layer of chalk, of pure crystalline aspect ani' great extent, on the north side of the river. There are numerous petrift' ^ tions of marine substances. Ascending the cuchilla we come upon a vast plain, in some places sandy, in others of argillacious soil, and agaiu covered with small pebbles called «piedras chinas.)) The vegetation is mostly of wpastos fuertes)) intermingled with «alfilerilIo, » and here and there a number of thorny shrubs, such as «chafiar,)) wpiquillin,)) «algarroba,)) «mata-perro,)» «uua de gato,)) «maqui de incienso:)) this last gives a resin which when burnt yields an odor like incense. These shrubs seldom grow higher thaa a man on horseback, although the «chanar» trees often give good spade and axe handles. The brushwood is no obstacle to horses or cows, but it tear the wool off sheep. The soil in the valley is of rich alluvial deposits, sometimes a little salty, and is fertilized by the river, which has two annual floods, one in sum- mer from the melting of the snows of the Andes, the second and greater one in winter from the rains in the same mountain ranges. In 1830 there was a. dreadful inundation, but the floods are generally harmless and beneficent, filling the lagoons and old beds of streams, which keep the water for the rest of the vear. 'Rain is rave, and the climate may be called dry. NN 19S THE FAR SOUTH PARTIDOS. There is no part of the province where trees thrive so well as here, and -the traveller is struck by the rows of poplars and fruit-trees on all sides, especially in the islands of the river. The vine does remarkably well, and the Chocoli Avine would be much better if more care were taken with this industry. The rivers and lagoons are lined with indigenous willows, called «Sauce Colorado :» the wood-cutters make «balsas)) of this timber, which they sell at El Carmen, as it is very useful for corral posts, building, &c. These posts last six or seven years, and Avould last longer if the ends were burned. Fences are also often made of chailar branches. This abundance of timber is a great gain, and renders building very cheap. Reeds and straw abound in the lowlands', and good roofs are also made of young willow branches tied together and covered with two or three layers of mud and chopped straw. The river in winding through the valley forms a number of «rinconesM of amazbig fertility, which are easily fenced in for grazing and agricultural purposes. Of all the settlements attempted by the old Spaniards on the shores of Patagonia, that of the Rio Nejfro or Patagones is the only one now existing. It was founded in the close of the last century, and suffered at first many difficulties. Being cut off from all contact with the exterior Avorld, the inhabitants still preserve a distinct type from the Buenos Ayreans. In 1833, when Rosas made his great expedition to the desert, he gave a great and sudden impulse to Patagones ; he distributed cattle and agricultural imple- ments among the poor inhabitants, garrisoned the island of Cholechocl, and founded a new town called Guardia Constitucion. The place being thus protected, cattle multiplied amazingly, and the salt deposits were soon in full work. Salina del Ingles is situate near the coast, Salina de Piedra eight leagues north of the town, and Salina de Espuma five leagues W.N.W. of the town, about half a league from the river. At the same time the saladeros were in full play, wheat was sown on a great scale, and everj'thing promised well. The fall of Rosas brought a great change : the Indians devastated the whole country, and the Cacique Yanquetruz boasted that he would reduce the wretched inhabitants «to live on hares' flesh. » lie kept his word to the letter, for the poor people had actually to subsist for a time on hares. The present Gomandante, Don Julian Murga, under- took to revive the efforts of Rosas, he made peace with the Indians, built a fort called Guardia Mitre, about fifteen leagues above Patagones, brought a stock of 60,000 sheep into the valleys, and recently started a saladero and sheep-graseria. He proposes to take possession again of the island of Cholechocl, which is an important strategic point. The «salinas)) of La Piedra and La Espuma are now in full work ; and the wheat crop is even PATAGOKES. 19^ larger than at Bahia Blanca. The present population counts over 3,000 souls, of whom more than half are in the town. Houses in the camp are strongly rebuilt to resist any Indian foray. A pilot is posted at the mouth of the river^ and the maritime traffic is more than double that of Bahia Blanca : the traders go to Buenos Ayres, freight a vessel with their wares, and send back, a return cargo of salt or wheat . There is a small steamboat on the Rio Negro, and it is intended to make her run as high as Cholechoel. Maize, zapallos, melons, potatoes, &c., do remarkably well. Sheep thrive notably. There is a group of seventeen Italian families on the south bank, opposite China Muerta : they make excellent hams and cheese. After these the first settlers in the valley were — Messrs. Hensser and Claraz, natives of Switzer- land, who purchased the lands of China-Muerta and Paso-Falso on the north bank, about ten leagues from Patagones : these are the finest lands in the Bio Negro: they bought mestiza sheep from Don Pedro Luro'sestancia, and made an establishment which has now no rival i» the district, whether in sheeji-breediug, agriculture, milch cows, or curing of meat : their bacon and mutton hams have ready sale in Buenos Ayres, and they have sent some samples to Europe, which promise them a good market there also. After these gentlemen some Englishmen came to buy lands, and have now flourishing establishnents, viz: Frazer Bros., Greenstreet, Everett, and Kincaid. Besides there are three Welsh colonists: Watkin Williams, E. Price, and J. Jones. There are in Patagones two kinds of sheep ; tiie Pampas are large, robust, and long-wooled: they were brought hither by the Indians from Chile, and have some aflinity to deer. The meat is very savoury. The ewes have often twin-Umbs, which they rear wiUiout any diCBculty. This race would answer well for crossing with smooth-wooled sheep, and Messrs. Kincaid are going tocross them with English breeds. The second kind of sheep in Patagones is the ordinary mestiza breed. Visitors to Patagones will find every comfort at the inn of Don Guiseppe Avenente, an Italian, whose charges are moderate; another excellent hotel has recently been opened by Mr. Thomas Deacon, a German. If you want horses or guides apply to Mr. Avenente. The best guide is Cochengo Piedra-Bueria. but we can also recommend Ureuo and Agustin Sosa. Waggons arc diUicult to obtain unless at exorbitant rates : for the south •ide apply to Solano Alderete, San Javier, or the Italians in front of Chiua- Muirta ; most of the latter reside in the town. The Bio Negro divides Patagones into two distinct towns : the commercial and old town is on the porth ;(je, comprising the wholesale houses of Aguirre and Murga, Abate, Dasso, r,^scarelo, &c. On the south side lived Mr. Sheiler, of the Falkland elands, whose beautiful quinta now^ belongs to the English 196 THE FAR SOUTH PARTIDOS. Mission : on this side also is the English Church, where Dr. Humble practises both in medicine and divinity, and keeps a free school and a well-stocked dispensary for the use of poor and rich. The usual charges for freight to and from Buenos Ayres are $f.5 to $f.6 per ton. The many , advantages of Patagones render it suitable for new beginners. The settler who has a good rifle and well-built house' may laugh at the Indians ; and this part of the country is wholly free from political commotions. Land is cheap, freight is cheap, timber and water abound, and sheep may be reared here at better profit than elsewhere. For further details about Patagones see Chap. VI., page 53 of Section A., in which is also a full account of the Welsh Colony on the River Chupat. The tradf>> returns of Patagones for the year show 28 vessels with 3,945 tons burden. The state-schools are attended by 52 boys and 35 girls: a new school-house i* being built. Justice of Peace Don Domingo de Oro ; Post-master Don Ignacio Leon. A new settler in the partido thus describes it : — «I owetoColonel[Murga's kindness having had the opportunity of making an excursicn as far as the «Guardia Mitre. » I have therefore seen the Rio Negro from its mouth to the town of Carmen de Patagones (eight leagues,) and thence to the Guardia (seventeen leagues,) making twenty- five leagues of its course. The left or south side is flat and low, with high ground at a considerable distance, the exact extent of which I dare not calculate for .fear of being wrong. The north side is also flat near to the water as the south side ; the low ground is, however, much narrower, and ■js bounded by a range of hillocks of tosca and sand of no great height (from four to ten metres.) The river is full of islands of different sizes, most of which are private property. The natural vegetation is vigorous, both in the islands and near the banks of the river. The red willow is very abundant here, and although white poplar is also to be found, it has all been [ lauled. The soil is in general very fertile, even to the top of the hillocks, but with the exception of some of the lower parts, the hand of man has not turned it to use. 1 have had but little opportunity of examining the higher ground, and this only on the northern side. The camp there is covered with chafiares not very high, alpataco, piquillin, jarrilla, and in a word with all the plants that are found in the vicinity of San Juan and Mendoza. In the lower part there is chilca, rushes, &c., as in Cuyo. Grass is generally very abundant everywhere, but it is not so thick on the higer ground. «The soil on the plateau is sandy and loose. On the banks of the r^^"^ gravel and round pebbles increase the Jhigher one ascends. It J ®"v PATAGOr«ES. 197 in the islands and in the lower ground near the banks of the river that cultivation is carried on. Some people work hard, but badly, and not with much success, on account of the scarcity of hands. Hard-working people form the exception, and not the rule. The drawbacks to contend against are the locusts, the drought at certain seasons, and the excessive rains at others, when, for instance, the wheat is still in the threshing- ground causing considerable damage, as has happened this year. The locust is not of that large kind which sometimes comes from the desert in enormous flights, darkening the light of the sun and destroying everything that is green wherever they alight. What we are plagued with is of a small size, does not fly high or far, and seems to reproduce itself in the same places where it commits its devastations. It would be very desirable^ to find the means of exterminating this mischievous insect. As far as- the drought is concerned, the means to guard against it are extremely simple : they are at this moment being put to the test, and I think will very soon be of general application. I have said that the cultivated lands are the islands and the low grounds in the vicinity of the river's banks. The river has sufficient fall to allow of canals being made at any point, without the necessity of cutting through rocks or overcoming gradients; so much so that it is a matter of wonder that a system of artificial irrigatiou by means of cauals, having been successfully applied in Bahia lilanca, nobody has tli ought of doing the same in Patagones. At present, Messrs. Nieva and Tonsua, both San Juaninos, are endeavoring to establish this system, and I feel certain that they will soon obtain the most complete success. Farmers will then be independent of the eventualities of rain, and 1 leave it to you to judge of the great importance of this matter. Moreover, any one that can and will irrigate his crops can secure his harvest several days sooner than he who depends upon the uncertainty of rain, and thus be able to get through his harvesting operations before the autumn rains set in. It would not be difficult to find protection from' the latter by making use of the timber that grows so abundantly along the river, and constructing sheds where; thrashing might be carried on by machinery, and under cover. ((Without venturing to state it as a certainty, since I have only lately become acquainted with the country, it seems to me that the greatest drawback here is the scarcity of laborers, and the slovenly way in which the few who do work get through a very small amount of work. The garrison here is not very numerous, yet if their Commandant were not to give leave to a portion of his soldiers to work, the want would severely affect the amount of production.)) i9* THE ISLANDS OF THE PARANA. CHAP. XI. THE ISLANDS OF THE PARANA. Not far from the city of Buenos Ay res, ou the northern side, wliere the waters of the ParanA and Uruguay mingle, forming one wide estuary, which, flowing majestically into the Atlantic, takes the name of Rio de la Plata, or River Plate — the waters of the Parana debouch into the latter by innumerable arms, forming a perfect network of canals and islands, which covers a vast extent of territory. It is what is known as the Delta or Islands of the Parana, a spot upon which nature, with a bountiful hand, has lavished all her treasures. There may be other spots on the face of the globe more picturesque, owing to a more varied scenery and more romantic landscape by >\hich nature adorns a broken and .mountainous soil, but none can surpass these islands in the luxury of their ever^^rdant beauty, the purity of air and water, the abundance and charms of their innumerable canals and streamlets, the fertility of the soil, and the plentifulness and delicious Ilavor of their fruit. It was on the 8th of September, 1855, that a party recruited from among the notabilities of the time, embarked at the Tigre in the Captain of the Port's cutter, and under the guidance of Don Antonio Somellera, then Captain in the naval service, proceeded to explore the spot of which they had heard such glowing descriptions. Among others the party consisted of Colonel B Mitre (afterwards Brigadier General and President of the Republic,) C. Pellegrini and S. Arcos, engineers, Crosa and Monra, members of the San Fernando Municipal poard, Sarmiento, Col. Albarracin, Torres, &c. The expeditioners were charmed with all they saw, and brought back such a favorable report that the public, fired by Sr. Sarmiento's able writings in the «Nacional,» seized with enthusiasm the project of the colonization of the islands, and people of all classes rushed to become the happy possessors of an island. Before the end of that year the following names had registered their title deeds in tlie Juzgado of San Fernando : — HKVi SETTLERS. 199 CARAPACHAY MI5I. C.a)ial de Liijan. Miguel Fernandez, Teodoro J. Amestra, Florentine Pinero, Ladiblao Piftero, Joaquin Countra, Doroteo Blanco, Ciriaco Rojas, Juan Rojas, Santos iSovas, Juan Pondal, Jacobo Parravicini, Antonio Olivera, Domingo Iparraguirre. Canal del Toro. Miguel Melo, Antonio Obligado, Jacinto Gonzalez, Antonio Silra, Eugenio Seide, Carlos Reyes, Fernandez Reyno. Canal de Carapachay . Estanislao Franco, Wenceslao Navarro, Martin Rodriguez, Gil Mendez, Maximo Bros, Maximo Garaboa, Jose Yrretraregui, Felipe Marana, Domingo Trelles, Joaquin Silva, Jose Bargas, Antonio Bargas, Francisco Alvarez, Manuel Guardia, Patricio Bookey, La Crosse, Fortunato Poncel, Pedro Jose Diaz, Florencio Pondal, Lorenzo Torres, J. Barros Pazos, Santiago Klappeubach, Bortolome Leloir, Juan Basterelli, N. Klappenbach, Hilario Almeida, August© Fabier, ?Jicomedes Reyual. Canal del Cambao. Francisco Rojas, Francisco Varela, Jose MariaRomero. Canal del Tori to. Juan Valenzuela, Francisco Ruiz. Canal de la Espera. ) n siMoBica Barraza, Anacleto Carneiro. Canal de la Esperita. Angel Crosa, Feliciano Bianco, Andres Gomez. Canal de la Ahra Aveva. Marcos Sastre, Miguel Casal, Pio Crosa, Ezequiel Cordoba, Manuel Monra, D. F. Sarmiento, Juan Jose Alsina, Pedro Villarino, Reyes Sagaste, Federice Toledo. Canal de la Abra Vieja. Benjamin Sastre, Hermogenes Salguero, Eduardo Vega, Bernardo Correa, Miguel Otero, Juan de los Santos, Leon Bordou, Jose Gutierrez, Antonio Cuclo, Pedro Soto. Canal de la Rama Negra. Fernando Jaren, Emilio Furque, Santiago Albaracin, Jose Cordero. Canal de Calves. Antonio Obligado, Juan Mufioz, Manuel Garango, Jose Manuel Moreno, Roque Petrochi, Gumesindo Arana, Alejandro Franco. 200 THE ISLAHDS OF THE PARANA. Canal del Capitan. Hilario Ascasubi, Jose Ramon Oguela, Remigio Gonzalez Moreno, Antoni© Gonzalez Moreno, Santiago Lacasa, Juan Ramos, Santiago Arcos, Franeisco Riobo, Luis Villarga. CARAPAYCHAY GUA2U. Parand de las Palmas. Manuel Ferreyra, Mariano Sarratea, Ramon Mancilla, Tesdoro Zabnela, Federico Carril, Manuel Fernandez, Manuel Pazos. Mateo Beovide, Santiago Yarte, Fernando Ramos, Miguel Rivas, Fernando Vazquez, Domingo Martinez, Leblanc, Antonio Dodero, Antonio Dunoyer, Pablo Nongier, P. Maria IVongier, Mariano Delfino, Samuel Hale, Cajctano Caumartin, Miguel Nero, Maria Lienferts, Pastora Torres, Nicolas Calvo, Eustaquio Riestra, August© Riestra, Emilio Agrelo, flermenegildo Riestra, Pedro Carreras, Juaa €onnell, Jose M. Bentillo, Joaquim Hornos, Julian Martinez, Bernardo Lienfert, &c., &c. The enthusiasm of the great majority of those who by Sarmieuto's power- ful writings and impressive preaching attempted the colonization and cultivation of these favored islands, was not of long duration, and most of them, after planting a few poplars and willows, gradually forgot the existence of their property. Among the few exceptions is to be counted an enterprising Frenchman, a gardener by profession and inclination, Mr. Brunet, whose large island on the Canal del Toro may even now serve as a model of flower and vegetable gardening. At considerable trouble and expense'he has succeeded, after struggling for years w ith the difficulties natural to the locality and those common to all new settlements, in making up his island an immense and highly productive nursery garden for almost every specie of the vegetable kind, from the most rare tropical plants and valuable fruit-trees to the last variety of common domestic cabbage and potato. Mr. Brunet keeps a store in the city, in Calle Rceonquista, where he always keeps on hand a large supply of plants, fruit, and vegetables, the latter being daily conveyed by a canoe to the Tigre, and thence to town by the Northern Railway. In February, 1869, Mr. Crabtree, manager of the Northern Railway, at the very low price of ^89,000, purchased an island. Five years ago the late Mr. Henry Harratt, and two other Englishmen, aUo bought an island. END OF VOL. I. w. 4 "^n. _^ 't\' V, ^ \a. . \ ^ y (h ^ (iV-^O, '-T^^,/»^-f .^. < ^ ^. iN\^.^ ^ '/ <:^ ^,«c ^^f^, 'r^'n^r^'^M ^' c9 ^yM- 7" ^^^!«'"^ Z ^W54|^.^ ^i'-<:i : ex ^^ /•' ^ra ^^^ ni9p Or- t (^•c. I ^03 f%' r^ ^^/^-.. ^i ^5^ 3 "^6 1 i^t ' / CI .^^ ^ ^^^^ c /^ .^^""^^i^ "^jig ^>^^^ i: «'%««^ //mAm.^y^..^m. : ^ x-^.wx ^ i^l^^ii p;^f^ >^ .1 ■ . .. '" // ili^ \> "^'■m ,_ /ri> %^3^^f^ ^4V 3^-f^ is-= ^ Cc V. . * '^^^Ss£^l^ CA^ ■i -m^^f 7 X: /^C^ . ■% Si -S.A. 4y«A . ;^<%ji