THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES /g-^^^^v^v^ A.tf^.Ph^^-- y^^/tit. J I ■ v»*^ siH/'/ir ^ ^tf^ -IV,' S?-t^;:--rlt' :-vS A BEEKSHIPiE VILLAGE, ITS UISTOliY AND ANTIQUITIES. BY THE REV. LEWIN G. MAINE, CCKATE OF STANFOED-IN-THE-VALE. (0yfoit» aulr Eon Don, JAMES PAllKER AND CO. 1866. LONDON : GILBEHT AND RIVINGTON, PRINTERS, ST. JOHN'S SQrARE. DP) TO Trri-; VENERABLE CHRISTOPHER AVORDSWORTH. D.D., ARCHDEACON OF WESTMINSTEK, VICAR, MR. HUNTER, AND MR. PUSEY, CHTTRCHWARDENS, AND THE PAKISHIONEES OF STANFOUD-IN-THK- VALE. THIS LITTLE Drsloru of iljm |3'arrslj IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED. G83830 PREFACE. The following' pages contain the substance of two Lectures upon Stanford and its neighbourhood, de- livered during the winter of last year. They are printed at the request of some who heard them, in the hope that others may be induced to imitate that whicli has here been imperfectly executed, and to give to the world the rich materials which abound towards the compilation of the history of our county. All agree in saying that it is high time something was attempted, for every writer upon Berkshire makes the same complaint, viz., that old customs are being forg^ten, and local traditions continually passing away. Thus the author of " Tom Brown^s School Days " tells us that *' the present generation know nothing of their own birth-places, of their own lanes, and woods, and fields ; that not one in twenty knows whei^ to find the wood sorrel or bee orchis, or is ac- a vi PREFACE. quainted with the country legends, the stories of the old gable-ended farm-houses, the place where the last skirmish was fought in the Civil AVars, or where the parish butts stood/' Aud Lord Carnarvon, in his excellent little addi-ess on the Archaeology of Berkshire, tells us that " local traditions and legends are the most precious heirlooms of archseolog}^, because, in an especial degree, they breathe the life, the habits, and the faith of our ancestors. These," he writes, " are year by year perish- ing from amongst us, and day by day, as it is deferred, the difficulty of obtaining materials for a county history becomes greater and more formidable." In the hope of contributing something, however small and imperfect, to such an imdertaklng, this little work is given to the public, in which, together with other matter by way of illustration, I have en- deavoured to preserve the em-rcnt village traditions. Any profits arising from the jmhlication of these Lectures toill he devoted to a fund for building a south aisle in Stanford Church. 4t Easier, JSGfJ. CONTENTS. British Remains in the Vale Eoman „ „ . . Saxon „ ,, . . Saxon Words in Common Use . Pusey Horn and Clierhnry Camp Monastery of Abingdon Stanford Church dedicated to St. Denys „ Manor .... The Building of the South Torch Effect of Dissolution of Monasteries . State of the Country at the Reformation The Yeomanry, their Habits and Manner < Mr. John Fawconer's Will Interesting Entries in the Churchwardens' Restoration^ of Stanford Church Churchyards and Epitai)hs Stanford Manor House built by Sir Francis Wadley and tlic TTnton Family . Anne Countess of Warwick , . PAGE 4 . . 5 . . 6 . 10 • 12 11- • 17 19 21 27 31 of Living 33 • 38 Book 41 48 52 s Knollys, k'.G. 58 61 62 vm CONTENTS. Visit of Queen Elizabotli ...... Sir Henry Unton's Challcnije .....' Bishop Jewel and Richard Hookei' .... Remains of Manor Houses in the Neighbonrhood The Great Rebellion and its Effect on this Tfeighboiithood Faringdou House held for the King ..... Childrey and Dr. E. Pocock Entries in Churehwatdens' Book, illustrating the History of the Time ...... Changes effected in Names Backsword Play and other Games Forgotten Changes in Dress and Manners . Concluding Remarks ..... Appendix Inventory of Vestments and Ornaments in use in Stanford Cluu'ch before the Reformation . . . . . List of Vicars ......... pa&t: . 61 60 68 76 76 77 79 8t 85 87 90 94 97 103 BEEKSHIEE TILLAGE: ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. The village of Stanford or Stanford-in-tlie-Yale, can hardly lay claim to be called a picturesque village. On the contrary, when I first approached it by way of the fields from the railway station, on a hot and dusty July day in the summer of 1859, I must confess that my first impressions respecting it were any thing but favourable. There was a certain old tumble-down barn which met the eye after crossing the little bridge over the Ock, which seemed to give a character to the whole — an appearance of poverty and decay by no means pleasing. The approach to the bridge, too, seemed sadly in want of the mason's care; and I mentally inferred that the village of Stanford had great need of a local surveyor. One redeeming feature, however, encouraged a hope that there was a better side to all this : viz., a handsome church tower peeping out from amid trees, on a slight elevation above the houses of B 2 A BERKSHIHE VILLAGE : the village. And when, on entering- the church path through Foot-ball Close, the Manor Farm, with its old grey buildings and crowded rickyard, appeared on the right, I began to think even a tumble-down village was not altogether devoid of beauty. And certainly it has proved so on further acquaintance, for although I have often grumbled at the absence of trees, the hot dry dust in summer, the excess of mud in winter, and the level country in the immediate neighboiu'hood, I have learned to love it for its own sake, to look with pleasure on the beautiful Berkshire hills in the distance, and to enjoy the glorious sunsets which never seem more lovely than at Stanford. It is no doubt a great thing to live in a vale, and that vale the "\^ale of White Horse. As Mr. Hughes observes in his famous novel, entitled " Tom Brown^s School Days,^' " I pity people who weren't born in a vale. I donH mean a flat country but a vale, that is, a flat country bounded by hills. Tlie having your hill always in view, if you choose to turn towards him, that's the essence of a vale. There he is, for ever in the distance, your friend and companion ; you never lose him as you do in hilly districts." Now Stanford, be it ever remembered, lies in the very midst of the Vale of White Horse, which is the richest district in all Berkshire. It lies midway l)ctwcen two ranges of hills, and, although in itself a little wanting in picturesque character, is in the neighbourhood of ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQriTIES. 3 fine scenery. Standing- either on the White Horse Hill or on the Faring-don range, a view may be obtained over many counties of England. Our own village has a special claim to represent the glories of this famous district, for it is called after the vale ; and all who hear its name become acquainted with the fact that Stanford is Stanford-in-the-Vale. The Vale of White Horse is full of historical memories ; not only famous for Back-sword Play and Scouring the White Horse, but famous for the part played by its inhabitants in many a drama of English history. There is scarcely an historical period which is not in some way connected with this part of Berk- shire. To connect some of these periods \vith the history of our parish and its immediate neighbour- hood, is the design of this lecture. It is an humble endeavour to interest you as well as myself in the memorable events of which this village has been the witness, and in which numbers of those who now slumber in our churchyard were the living agents. Should any be inclined to think such knowledge profitless, I would reply to them in the words of Bishop Kennett, " I am sensible there be some who slight and despise this sort of learning, and represent it to be a dry, barren, monkish study. I leave such to their dear enjoyments of ignorance and ease, but I dare assure any wise and sober man that historical antiquities, especially a search into the notices of our B % 4 A BERKSHIRE VILLAGE : own nation, do deserve and will reward the pains of any English student, will make him understand the st-ate of former ages, the constitution of Governments, the fundamental reasons of equity and law, the rise and succession of doctrines and opinions, the tenures of property, the rites of religion, and, indeed, the nature of mankind." There are indications within a few miles which carry us hack into a hoary antiquity, and connect this neighbourhood with the very dawn of English history. INfany of you must have visited that sin- gular group of stones on the White Horse Hill made famous by Sir Walter Scott^s novel of " Kenilworth," called Wayland Smith's cave. In the middle of a clump of trees you may see a large flat stone raised on seven or eight others. This is an ancient Crom- lech, and connects the place with the heathen worship of the ancient Druids. It speaks to us of a time wlien the early Britons roamed over these hills, and worshipped Him whom they called the Unknown. The name of our little river, the Ock, is another trace of early British rule, for it bears a Celtic name, the language of the first inhabitants of our island. Hut if in many places we can find indications of British occupation, our own parish carries us a link further in the chain of history. On the fai-m in the ofcupation of JVIr. Penstone at Chinham we have evi- dences of these verv lands having been trodden bv the ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 5 Roman leg-ions. For Cln'nliam has been identified with Julianum, a Roman settlement, and on its site is found what is called the " Chinham money/' on which you may read the superscription of the Caesars. A larg-e number of these coins was lately in the pos* session of Mr. Penstone, they were g-iven by him to the late Bursar of Brazenose College, Oxford. Another collection, now belonging to Mr. Kimber, has been lent to me, and amongst them I find several coins of Con- stantine, and one of Trajan and Nerva. Remains of Roman building have also been found in a field, on the farm lately occupied by Mr. Henry Penstone, and traces of a road reaching across the country to Spars- holt have been also discovered. But, in speaking of the times of the Romans, I must not omit to mention the Camp on the White Horse Hill. It is one of the finest specimens in England. You may trace its gates and ditch and mounds all in perfect preservation ; and within it you may find, as Mr. Hughes lias observed, " most beautiful green turf with tender blue bells, and gossamer, and thistledown, together with the pleasantest breeze that ever blew.'' But the chief evidence of these lands having been trodden by the Roman legions is to be found in the old Roman roads called the Ridgcway, and the Ickleton or Icknield way, which run for miles along the White Horse Hill. It was by means of these roads the Roman soldiers marched, and doubtless by them Christianity was first B 3 6 A BERKSHIRE VILLAGE : introduced into this island^ and perhaps into this parish. The first martyr of these ishmds, St. Alban, was, we knoWj a soldier in the Roman army. The hamlet of Goosey, which, since the Reforma- tion, has been joined to this Parish, advances us another link in the chain of history. It speaks to us of those who next became the masters of this island, viz., the Saxons. And here we stand on firmer ground, being able to show by actual existing documents that Goosey was known by the same name that it bears at present, in the middle of the eighth century. Tliis information is gained from an ancient Latin record, entitled, " Tlie Chronicles of Abingdon," which, since the dissolution of monasteiies in the 16th centuiy, has remained in the custody of the Queen^s Master of the Rolls. From this we learn that Offa, King of Mercia and Wessex, whose name survives in the name of the neighbouring village of Uffington, or Offals Town, gave to the monks of Abingdon the Manor of Goosey in exchange for a large tract of meadow-land near Abingdon, called Andresey, or St. Andrew's Island. This grant of the Manor of Goosey connects our parish with the times of the Saxons, for Goosey is essentially a Saxon village, its name signifying Goose Island; being probably so called from the large Hocks of wild geese frequenting Goosey Mere. Hut, indeed, the whole country round a])out us ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 7 teems with traces of our Saxon forefatlicrs. The White Horse cut on the hill commemorates the famous victoiy obtained by King Ethelred and his brother Alfred^ afterwards called Alfred the Great, over the Danes, in the year 871. This is called the battle of Ashdown. The Danish army was in two divisions, one commanded by two of their kinr^s called Berjjf- secg" and Aldene, the other commanded by two earls. The Danes had the advantage of position, for they occupied the higher grounds, that is Uffington Camp and the slope beneath. The Saxon army was like- wise divided into two parts, the one under the com- mand of King Ethelred, and the other under that of his brother Alfred. Whilst King Ethelred was en- gaged in his tent in prayer and receiving the Holy Communion, the Danes began the battle. Seeing the danger of delay, Alfred, without waiting for his brother, formed his men into a dense phalanx and led his troops against the enemy. But Alfred^s troops, fighting with disadvantage of ground and numbers, began to be discouraged and give way, when King Ethelred came up, and charging the enemy with great fury, turned the fortune of the day. According to the old Saxon chronicler whose words I transcribe, " There was also a single thorn-tree of stunted growth which we ourselves with our very eyes have seen. Aromid this tree the opposing armies came together with loud shouts from all sides, the one party to B 4 8 A BERKSHIliE VILLAGE : pursue their ^\'ieked course, the other to fig-ht for their lives, their dearest ties, and their countiy ; and when both armies had foug-ht long and bravely, at last the pagans, by the Divine judgment, were no longer able to bear the attacks of the Christians, and having lost great part of their army, took to a dis- graceful flight. One of their two kings and five earls were there slain, together with many thousand pagans, who fell on all sides, cov^ering with their bodies the whole plain of Ashdown/^ Such was the great victory obtained by the Christian Saxons over the heathen Danes, of which the ^Vhite Horse, cut on the hill, is the sign and memorial. There it has been for nearly a thousand years. Another memento of Saxon times remains in the name of Wayland Smithes Cave. It is true it is a British cromlech, but the name by which we know it, is Saxon. Weland the Smith, was one of the Teutonic demigods, and traditions of him are found throughout Europe. According to Anglo-Saxon le- gend, he was a cunning goldsmith and magical farrier. The local tradition is, that an invisible smith, called Wayland, had his abode on this spot, who would shoe a traveller's horse, if left liere for a short time with a piece of money for payment. Certain it is that this group of stones has borne the same name since the time of the Saxons, for it is mentioned in the ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. Abing-don Chronicle as a landmark under the name <.f *'Welundes Smiththc/' But, indeed, everywhere in the Vale we find un- mistakable indications of our Saxon origin. INIany of our familiar names are Saxon, Thus Wic means a dwelling'-place in the old Anglo-Saxon, and we have Goosey-wick and Charney-wick. Mere is Saxon for a lake, and we have Goosey Mere. Croft is Saxon for a meadow, and we have Sheepcroft, and Horsecroft. The name of our parish, and, indeed, that of all the neighbouring- parishes, is Saxon. Stan is Saxon for a stone, and ford is Saxon in its derivation, perhaps meaning when put together " the ford by the quarry -," for Stanford, we know, abounds in quarries of stone. The termination "ey^^ in Goosey, Charney, Pusey, Hanney, Childrey, means Island, and is Saxon in its origin. It shows that the country in those times was much covered with water, and that these were places so surrounded by it as to obtain the name of islands. Any one may well understand this who has ever been to Hanney or to Goosey in the winter. In Uffington, as we have said before, we are reminded of a Saxon king, whose town it was. In Buckland we seem to have reference to the Saxon distinction of land into " folc-land '' and " hoc-land. ^^ Land which belonged to the state or community at large, was called " folc-land,^^ that is, the people^s land. Stan- ford had folc-land, or, as it was called, " Stanford b3 10 A BERKSHIRE VILLAGE : common field." Bocland was land held by book or charter. Boc is the Saxon for beech, and books or charters were wi-itten on beechen tablets, and so the word " boc" came to signify book. Butj indeed, we have still more familiar traces of Saxon times in the very language spoken amongst us. Some of the best judges pronounce the dialect of our Vale to be the purest Anglo-Saxon now spoken. To mention some few words amongst many. We say housen when we mean houses. We speak of a heisch day. We call a gate, a gaat. When we are lone- some or solitary, we say we are very unhed. When we are vexed or put about, we say, we are caddled. We »ay, when wheat comes up very early, it is fromm. We say, when we are very hungry, that we are very leer. We say, when a child is brisk and lively, that it is peart. We speak of staying in a place as hiding in a place; and when we talk of moving, we say wagging. From this word wag is formed the word waggon — that is, something which wags or moves on. A man came to my house, the day after New Yeai'^s Day, selling oranges, from the Saxon town of Wantage, who pleaded as a reason for my purchasing some, that I had not given him a hansel this year; handsel, in Saxon, meaning a New Year's gift. We often make use of old grammatical forms. Thus we use the personal pronouns he or she to ex- ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 1 I press objects without life. Thus I heard a lad remark one day to another who had g-iven him an apple, "Who ever gave you he to give to 7?^^ Such was once the manner of speech amongst all. Such ex- pressions are not bad, but only antiquated English, and prove that once our forefathers spoke pure Anglo- Saxon. Moreover, traces of the time in which those hardy Norsemen, the Danes, disputed with the Saxons the possession of this country, survive also in the tra- dition connected with the horn by which Mr. Pusey of Pusey holds his land. This horn bears the inscri])- tion, Kyng Knoude gave William Pewse Yys home to holde by thy Londe." About this horn there has been some dispute. The tradition about it is called a fabulous legend by one historian of Berkshire ; and perhaps it may be that the inscription is of later date than the horn itself; but certain it is that King Canute was a great deal in this neighbourhood, for he is mentioned in the old Latin Chronicle of Abingdon as a con- siderable benefactor to the monastery. Holding lands by cornage, or the service of a horn, was common in early times. He who held land ]jy a horn, it is said, was bound to blow a horn when any invasion of an enemy was perceived. The name of Pusey will ever be honoured and respected in Stan- B 6 • 12 A BERKSHIRE ^TLLAGE : ford. There is scarcely a cottag-e which does not contain the portrait of the " old Sqnire ;" and he well deserves to he honourably mentioned in any account of our parish ; for he was a man of genial humour, varied information, practical ability, and sterling worth. He set a good example to the gentry of Berkshire in residing much on his property. He was the president and founder of the Agricultural Society, and for some time worthily represented this county in Parliament. Both he and Lady Emily, his wife, are remembered with affection by many of the labourers and their families. But not only are we reminded of tlie Danes by the Pusey horn, but also by the camp, about half a mile from Pusey, called Cherbury Camp. This has been called a British camp ; but the tradition about it is, that it was at all events used by the Danes. The present Lord Carnarvon, a relative of Mr. Pusey^s, in a little work on the Archaeology of Berkshire, pub- lished in 1S59, relates that this is the camp into which Alfred the Great penetrated in disguise as a minstrel, in order to learn the plans of the Danes. The story told by the Saxon chronicler Ing-ulf is, that " the king, feigning to be a glee-man, took his harp, and went into the camp of the Danes, where, being admitted into its most private places, he saw all the secrets of his enemies ; and, when lie had gra- tified his wishes, withdrew without being found out." ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 13 Thus, in all parts of the Vale we are reminded of the great Alfred. Wantage, or Wanting — that is, " the place of moles " — was his birth-phice, and at Ashdown he gained his great victory. Well may those who live in the Vale think with pride of Alfred the Great, for a great and good king he was. His great desire was to benefit the English nation; and for this purpose he translated much of the Scripture into English ; and in order to encourage the clergy of his own and future times to the earnest performance of the pastoral office, he translated a famous book called the Pastoral of Gregory the Great, a copy of which, together with a golden pen, he sent to every bishop in his kingdom, that it might be preserved for ever in their churches. The whole of this neighbourhood is connected with the residence of the Saxon kings; for both at Wantage and at Faringdon there were royal palaces. In one of them, at Wantage, Alfred was born ; and in the other, at Faringdon, Edward, his son, called Edward the Elder, died in &25. ' Thus the antiquity of this neighbourhood and its connexion with the several races which from time to time obtained the mastery in England can be proved without dispute ; but if we would form a perfect idea of the life of those early days, we must strive to com- prehend something of that monastic life which was led by so many in this immediate neighbourhood. 14 A BERKSHIRE ^^LLAGE : The monastic life does not seem a state recom- mended to us by the life of our Blessed Lord. He taug-ht us rather, while we seek for seasons of retire- ment, to mix among" men and leaven by Christian example the mass of sin about us. The monastic life began about the middle of the third century, during the Decian persecution. Many persons then formed themselves into communities, and lived apart from the world. No sooner had religion made any progress among-st the Saxons, than many monasteries began to be built all over the island. This was natural, for Gregory the Bishop of Rome, who sent forth a mission to convert the heathen Saxons, was himself a monk, and the person he selected to undertake their con- version was Augustine, a monk from his owai monas- tery. One of the first monasteries built in the south of England was that of Abingdon, some few traces of which may still be seen. There are the remains of a gateway, and in an adjoining brewery some ancient rooms still exist. The Arms of the Abbey, with the Royal Arms, may yet be seen over the gateway. This Abbey was built about the year 675 by Heane, nephew of Cissa, king of the West Saxons. Some idea of its extent may be gathered from the number of in and out-door servants employed in it, which were more tliaii a hundred in uumlxT. At its gates the poor were continually relieved. It was ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 1 5 the hospital for the whole district, for all the knowledj^e of medicine possessed in those days was enjoyed by the monks. It was the school of the neighbourhood, and here William the Conqueror left his son to be educated. It was the alms-house of those days, where the ag-ed servant and the decayed labourer retired to a home neither uncomfortable nor humiliating. Again, the monasteries were the inns of the country, where all wayfaring men were lodged and fed on their journeys. The brethren of Abingdon spent their time partly in prayer and partly in labouring in the fields. Tliey were the great farmers of their day, and greatly promoted agriculture. The food of the monks was at first very coarse and simple, but afterwards greater indulgences were per- mitted them. In later times pork or bacon was allowed once a day. Each monk had also half a quartern loaf and half a pound of cheese, with beer twice a day. On feast-days they had other indul- gences, such as hydromel, a drink made from water and honey, and wine was allowed on the great festi- vals. In Lent, instead of cheese, they had each one large eel. ]\Iilk and eggs were largely consumed, for their own manors were bound to furnish them with £9,000 eggs yearly. I have dwelt upon these details because the hamlet of Goosey was a manor belonging to the Abbey of Abingdon. Here in all probability the monks had 16 A BERKSHIEE VILLAGE : a farm, for Goosey is mentioned in the Chronicle aS supplying the Abbey with cheese. At Charney they had another farm, from which also the monks drew a further supply. Doubtless that very form of cheese which is made so extensively in this neighbourhood is fashioned after a recipe which originally emanated from the dairy at Abingdon. In imagination, then, we may people the fields of Goosey Avith the lay brethren of the monastery engaged in agricultural pursuits, busied in the hay field, cutting wood, milk- ing cows, or driving them to pasture. Nay, we may think of this labour as sanctified by religion, and hear the matin bell calling them to early prayers, and the vesper, or evening, bell inviting them to devotion and repose. True, in many respects, it was a corrupt religion which they professed ; but their piety in this respect contrasts somewhat favourably with that of the 19th century. The dress of the Benedictine monks of Abingdon, and therefore of Goosey, was a long robe of black serge with a hood to cover the head. The head was partially shaven, :nul in their hands they carried a book of prayers. Such figures must have been very familiar to the inhabitants of Stanford in past years. The Abbey at Abingdon was destroyed by the Danes, but its ruined fortunes were restored by King Athelstane. He bestowed on it many manors, and amongst them that of the neighbouring village of ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 17 Shelling"ford. And it happens that the gift of Shel- ling-ford to the Abbey is connected by a remarkable link with our ovm parish church. Athelstane^ as the Chronicle of Abing-don relates^ kept the feast of Easter in the year 939 with his whole court in great state at Abingdon. Whilst there, messengers arrived from Hugh Cajiet, king of France, with valuable presents of gold and jewels and holy relics, to ask from the English monarch his sister's hand in marriage. Amongst the relics was a finger of St. Denys of Paris. This St. Denys was one of a company of seven who were sent from Italy in the time of the Decian persecution to relight the lamp of faith in Gaid. He preached most diligently, and is called the Apostle of Gaul. With two others he suffered martyrdom, and was buried in Paris at a spot called Montmartre, that is, the mount of martyrs. A mag- nificent church was built in his honour, in which, for many centuries, the French kings were buried. It is the Westminster Abbey of France. St. Denys is looked upon as the patron saint of France, and the French soldiers used to shout his name for their battle cry, as the English that of St. George. Now it is to this holy saint and martyr our parish church is dedicated, for the festival of St. Denys of Paris was held on October 9th, the very day on which Stanford feast falls, these feasts being the anniversaries of the dedication of the church. 18 A BERKSHIRE VILLAGE: Now our present cliurch was built at a later date, but yet there are tombs iii the churchyard which show there was a church on the present site about 800 years ago. It seems more than probable that about this time, the time when Shellingford came into the possession of the monks, that a church was built in Stanford and dedicated to the memory of St. Denys of Paris. Tlie naming of the church was doubtless owing to the fact of a finger of St. Denys being possessed as a famous relic by the monks of Abingdon. While, then, we condemn that superstition \\'hicli the venera- tion of relics brought upon the Church of God, let us remember that he to whom our church is dedicated was indeed a saint and martyr — one who, at the hazard of his life, preached the blessed Gospel of the living God during a time of persecution. It was only by degrees that corruptions crept into the Church. In the times of the Saxons, there was much pure religion practised in England. It was not until much later in the history of our nation that the reading of the Bible was discouraged. The learning of the four gospels by heart was a necessary acquire- ment for all who took Holy Orders ; and the Saxon homilies — i. e., sermons composed to be read in churches — exhort the people with much earnestness " to the frequent perusal of the Scriptures,'^ and en- force the advice from the great benefit of that exer- ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 19 cisGj saying-, "tliat the mind was refined, and the passions purged by this expedient ; that this was the way to refresh our greatest concern upon us, and make heaven and hell have their due impression. That, as a blind man often stumbles in his motion, so those who are unacquainted with the word of God are apt to make false steps and miscariy '." Laws, too, were made at successive councils, ex- horting the clerg-y, parents, and g-odparents to instruct children, and commanding the sanctification of the Lord's Day. But to return to the history of our owti parish. Its history, so far as it is known from authentic docu- ments, cannot be traced until after the Conquest. From the evidence of ancient charters referred to in Lyson's History of Berkshire, it seems that the Manor of Stanford was given by the Conqueror to Henry do Ferrars, Earl of Derby, in whose family it continued for 200 years. This nobleman held no less than twenty-two manors in Berkshire, he being the greatest lay proprietor. During the time the manor was in the possession of the Ferrars, Earls of Derby, a market was granted to the parish, in the year 1230, in the reign of Henry III. Stanford was a market- town down to the time of the Reformation ; for it is called a town in the Churchwarden's accounts of the » Cp. Collier's Ecd. Hist., vol. i. p. 201. 20 A BERKSHIRE VILLAGE : 16tli century; and traces of this may be found in the language used respecting strangers — viz., that they are out-towners. At this time also a fair was granted to Stanford, which was held at the time of Stanford feast, and which still lingers in the annual appearance of a few travelling shows and gingerbread stalls. A fair was a very different matter once, being attended by per- sons from all the country round; for in old times there were few shops, and such opportunities of obtaining needful merchandise could not be lost. Our market was held on Thursdays, perhaps on Church Green ; and then the neighbours from Shel- lingford, Pusey, Charney, Goosey, and other villages, would bring wool, honey, poultry, butter, and eggs. Occasionally, perhaps, a lay brother from Goosey would offer for sale some of those cheeses so much ap- preciated by the monks. Stanford was lost by the Ferrars family in 1266. On accoimt of the part taken by Ferrars, Earl of Derby, against Henry III. and his son, this estate was forfeited, and was given by the king to Clare, Earl of Gloucester, whose arms may be seen in the chancel window of the church. The church was in all probability built whilst this nobleman possessed the manor. The architecture, which is of the style called Decorated Gothic, leads us to think it was built about the beginning of the fourteenth century. The ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 21 windows are exactly similar to some in the chapel of INIerton College at Oxford, where the arms of the De Clares are also to be seen, A brass in our chancel tells us that Roger Campcdene was Rector of Stanford, and that he died in 1398. Perhaps he was the first rector of the new church. From the Clare family the Manor passed by female descent to the family of De Spencer, then to that of Beauchamp, and after that, to the Nevilles. And this brings us to a veiy in- teresting period in the history of our country, to an event rendered still more famous by the pen of Shak- speare. For this Manor, we have seen, belonged to the Nevilles, and from thence it passed to the Crown. How this happened we may gather from the south porch of our church, which is of later date than the rest, and has carved upon it the rose and fetlock impalvig Hie ragged staff. This points to the porch being built about the time of the marriage of Lady Anne Neville with the Duke of Gloucester, after- wards Richard III., by whose orders it is said the two young princes were murdered in the Tower. This lady was a daughter of the famous Neville, Earl of Warwick, sometimes called the King-maker, who played a prominent part in the Wars of the Roses. Her first marriage was a very unhappy one. She was married to that Prince Edward, son of Henry VI., who was stabbed to death by the Dukes of Clarence and Gloucester, after having been taken prisoner at 22 A BERKSHIRE ^^LLAGE : the battle of Tewkesbury — the horrid deed which Shakspeare, in his play of Richard III., has fitly made one of the phantoms that haunted the death dream of Clarence. " Then came wandering by A shadow like an angel, with bright hair Dabbled in blood ; and he shrieked out aloud, Clarence is come — false, fleeting, perjured Clarence, That stabbed me in the field by Tewkesbury : Seize on him furies, — take him unto torment ". ■ 5 " But the second marriage of Lady Anne Neville was a still more miserable one; for she was sought out from concealment by Richard Duke of Gloucester, one of those who stabbed her husband, and induced or forced to marry him. Shakspeare has woven some incidents of this sad history into the same play. He represents the corpse of King Henry VI. being borne towards Chertsey, and Lady Anne following as a, mourner : — " Poor key-cold figure of a holy king ! Pale ashes of the house of Lancaster ! Tliou bloodless remnant of that royal blood! Be it lawful that I invocate thy ghost, To hear the lamentations of poor Anne, Wife to thy Edward, to thy slaughtered son 3." On the road to Chertsey she is met by Richard, who endeavours to persuade her to marry him. At first she rejects his suit with the most bitter scorn, ' King llicbard III., Act i. Scene 4 ^ j/,ij,^ Act i. Scene 2. ITS HISTORY AND ANTiquiTIES. 23 but at last is secming-ly persuaded to consent. It is not improbable that the south porch of our church may have been erected by the King", as a kind of penance for sin^ for in such a manner sorrow for wrong- done was often shown in those days. The l)uilding' of the south porch is the last link I am able to supply in the history of Stanford imtil the date of the Reformation ; but it may not be with- out interest to mention that only a few days ago a silver penny of the time of Richard III. was found in the mould of the churchyard. The reign of Richard is not perhaps the one which is most pleasing to remember in connection with Stanford^ but still it was a most eventful period, and may serve to remind us of the stormy times through which our ancestors — those who worshipped in the same church — have passed. It is only fair to say that it has been con- tended that the popular notion of Richard's character is a party delusion, a matter of Lancastrian prejudice fomented by Shakspeare ; but although it is possible the dark side of his character may have been exag- gerated, there must without doubt have been some foundation for it. Shakspeare has a fine passage, where he makes Richard express remorse before his death. He has an agitated dream on the eve of the battle of Bosworth Field. There, rising from his sleep, harassed, haggard, and disturbed, he explains 24 A BERKSHIRE VILLAGE : to his attendants the change which had come over his spirit, and the hauntings of his guilty conscience : — " My conscience hath a thousand several tongues. And every tongue brings in a several tale, And every tale condemns me for a vUlain : Perjury, perjury in the high'st degree, AU several sins, all used in each degree, Throng to the bar, crying all — Guilty ! guilty ! I shall despair. There is no creature loves me, And if I die no soul will pity me. Nay, wherefore should they ? since that I myself Find in myself no pity to myself; Mcthought the souls of all that I had murdered Came to my tent, and every one did threat To-morrow's vengeance on the head of Richard*." "o'- May we not hope that Shakspeare has only in this preserved a tradition of the qualms of conscience felt for his deeds by Richard before his death? Such conscientious qualms perhaps may have mo ed the king to the erection of our church porch ; and may we not trust, that perhaps within the walls of Stanford Church, the king may have sought pardon and for- giveness for his great sins from the mercy of God, a j)ardon which we know is not withheld on sincere repentance even to the greatest of sinners. At this period of war and bloodshed in the State, there was much corruption in the Church; but even before, and at that time, some there were who set a * King Richard III., Act v. Scene 3. ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 25 bright example of Christian living*. Tliis may be learned from the poetry of Chaucer^ who, it is al- leged, lived at Donnington Castle near Newbury in this county, where, under an oak in the park, he composed, according to tradition, many of his poems. His son was Lord of the Manor of the neighbouring villages of Buckland and Hatford in the year 1436. In one of his poems, Chaucer has left us a description of a parson of his day, which, if true, abundantly testifies that at that time there were, at all events, some parishes where faith was not altogether extin- guished. He speaks of " A poor Parson of a town, But rich he was of holy thought and work j He was also a learned man, a clerk That Christe's Gospel truly would he preach. His parishens devoutly wovdd he teach. Wide was his parish — houses far asunder, But he neglected nought for rain and thunder j In sickness and in grief to visit all. The farthest in his parish, great and small. Always on foot, and in his hand a stave, This noble example to his flock he gave. That first he wrought, and afterward he taught ; Out of the Gospel he that lesson caught. And this new figure added he thereto. That if gold rust, then what should iron do," But in the same poem from which this description is taken, Chaucer shows us that many corruptions were rife in regard to religion. A wicked traffic was c 26 A BEP.KSHIEE VILLAGE : carried on in pardons which the Pope pretended to grant, and which were sold for money by his agents in England. Then, also, pilgrimages were made to the shrines of the saints, as if by this, sin could be atoned for. All this was fostered by the denial of the Scriptures to the people, and by the use of Latin in the public prayers, wlaich, therefore, the people could not under- stand. Much corruption, moreover, grew out of the monastic system. The monks persuaded the lords of manors to make over the churches on their estates and the tithes with which they were endowed, to their own monasteries, they, meanwhile, undertaking to provide for the ecclesiastical duties ; and thus parishes were left without resident pastors, the Church sennces being performed by monks from the neighbouring monastery. The monastic system again interfered with the healthier parochial system in other ways. It drained oflP the resources of religious zeal into one channel, and prevented the erection and endowment of bishoprics and parishes. This abuse was foreseen by Bede, a learned Saxon monk, who died in 735. Even in his day, he foresaw the evil which would arise from too great an increase in the building of monasteries ; and advised that some of them should be suppressed, and their estates applied to the erection of bishoprics. Another evil arising from the monastic system was the false view it propagated in regard to religion, a corruption which is illustrated by the word religion ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 27 itself. " A religious person in the times of the monks did not mean any one who felt and allowed the bonds that bound him to God, and to his fellow men ; but one who had taken peculiar vows upon him, a mem- ber of one of the monkish orders. A relig-ious house did not mean a Christian household, ordered in the fear of God, but a house in which these persons were gathered together, according to the rule of some man. ' Religious' was a title which might not be given to parents and children, husbands and wives, men and women fulfilling faithfully and holily in the world the several duties of their stations, but only to those who had devised such a self-chosen service for themselves^'' No one who has not carefully studied the history of those times can conceive the great revolution which at the dissolution of monasteries passed over this country. The first great change in this neighbourhood must have been the dissolution of the great abbey at Abingdon. This abbey must have been a source of wealth and tem- poral benefit to the whole neighbourhood. No doubt the system of which it was the representative was productive of much spiritual evil ; but this evil was mixed mth much that was good, and the temporal benefits which it dispensed were very great. For, at the gates of the abbey, as I have said, the poor were largely relieved. It was an asylum for the aged and infirm, for the sick and the destitute, the hospital and * Trench, on the Study of Words, c 2 2S A BERKSHIRE VILLAGE : disjiensary for the whole neighbourhood. But now all this was swept away. King Henry VIII. at two several times confiscated the whole of the monastic property to the service of the state. He is said to have lost at a game with dice the great bell of St. Paul's to one of the courtiers. By the sale of the abbey lands, and from the plate and jewels of w^hich the monasteries were despoiled, an enormous sum of money was obtained. The excuse for this was the cor- rupt state of many of these monastic houses, but there is every reason to believe this was exaggerated. No douljt much of the land had been given to the service of religion under false notions of penitence, but still much of it must have been given through motives of piety ; and, indeed, no one could be sure what were the inner springs influencing men to bestow their land and treasure. These lands and this money did not belong to the monks absolutely. The monks were only the tnistees for religion and the poor. Granting that the tiiistces were evil, they should have been removed, but not the trust confiscated. Thus a great wrong was done, and a great sin committed. Arch- bisho}) Cranmer and Bishops Latimer and Ridley earnestly moved the king to give some of the monas- teries as schools of learning, and to endow them with their revenues, and to allow some to remain for better religious purposes, And the king certainly at one time had some intention of doing this, for there exists ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 29 in his own handwriting a scheme for erecting thirteen bishoprics out of the spoils of the monasteries. But this scheme was never carried into effect. Out of the whole of the immense revenue that accrued to the Crown from the abolition of the monasteries^ a fraction of about £8,000 per annum was bestowed upon the endowment of six new bishoprics, and the substitu- tion of canons for the disbanded monks in several of the old cathedral churches. The whole of this neighbourhood must have been deeply affected by the dissolution of the monasteries, for both Cistercians and Benedictines had religious houses in the vicinity. There was a cell at Faring- don, an offshoot of the Cistercian Abbey of Beaulieu in Hampshire, a record of which remains in the old barn at Great Coxwell ; and at Abingdon there was the great Benedictine monastery. Stanford, it is pro- bable, had frequent intercourse botii with Cistercians and Benedictines, for Faringdon is only four miles distant from Stanford, and there still remain traces of an old road or track leaving this parish near that part of it which is called Bow, and running through Charney field in a straight line for Abingdon. Intercourse with these places must have greatly promoted the breeding of sheep, and the tillage of land, for the Cistercians were the great wool-growers of the country, and the Benedictines the promoters of agriculture. Much wool was doubtless brought to c 3 80 A BERKSHIRE ^^LLAGE : Stanford Market, for it is plain from Mr. Fawconer's will, in which mention is made of wool weights, that tithes were paid in wool, and several published walls of the Unton family at Wadley, about the time of the Reformation, prove the staple production of this neighbourhood to have been wool. It is highly pro- bable that Stanford may have had a considerable manufacture of kersey cloth, which was produced in many Berkshire towns, a trade which was ruined by the civil wars. Together with this trade, consider- able attention must have always been paid to agri- culture and dairy farming. Tlie cheese supplied by Sliellingford, Goosey, and Charney to the monastery of Abingdon, sufficiently proves that attention was then, as now, paid to the feeding of cows in the Vale. The methods of farming were veiy primitive. No carts were known, and manure was carried in ham- pers or panniers on the backs of horses ; and, indeed, this custom is still remembered by some living, who affirm that this was so in the village of Goosey until a very late date. At the Reformation Stanford had to wish good-bye to her old neighbours, the Cistercians and Bene- dictines, and accustom herself to a new order of things, to exchange monkish landlords for lay pro- prietors. In order to reconcile the leading persons in every county to the sale of the abbey lands and tithes, they were allowed to purchase them at easy ITS HISTOEY AND ANTIQUITIES. 31 prices. Thus it was said, " Popish lands made Pro- testant landlords." In these times the poor were great sufferers, for a vast proportion of the population were turned adrift witliout employment, and so great was the distress that in Oxfordshire there was a serious rebellion. This parish was then, as indeed it continued until the last generation, entirely unenclosed. From Far- ingdon to Oxford was one large sheep-walk. Ancient charters give us some idea of the state of the country round. Tlius in the Wadley property in Wyke, that is, part of Faringdon and the whole of Hatford, the land was proportioned as follows : — Tliere were 1500 acres of arable, 600 acres of meadow, 1000 acres of pasture, 100 acres of wood, 500 acres of jampnorum, that is, gorse or furze, being 2100 acres of grass land to 1500 of arable. Thus we see that the rearing of sheep was found more profitable than keeping the land in tillage. Indeed, Bishop Burnet shows that much land was turned into pasture, and many enclosures removed for the sake of breeding sheep, the wool of which fetched a very high price. Through this fewer labourers were employed, and land was let at a dearer rate to yeomen. These ancient charters prove the existence of many woods which have now wholly disappeared, and show us that much land has been reclaimed, once altogether waste. Within the memory of many living, there were many c 4 $Z A BERKSHIRE VILLAGE : acres of common covered with furze between this \411ag'e and that of Buckland, and a large tract of land called Hatford Downs. The furze probably sup- plied the poor in old times wdth fuel, and when the making of bricks was introduced into the Vale, it was wdth furze that the furnaces were heated. Anciently Stanford was peopled by many sub- stantial yeomen. The name of yeoman may be read on many old gravestones, and constantly occurs in the Church registers. Tliere still exist many old farm- houses, none of them of very large size. These are stUl known by the names of their former ouTiers, whose families for many years inhabited this parish. Thus we have Spinage^s, Ducket's, Stone's. Tliere are the remains of one of these old houses of the yeo- maniy on Second Common, which, though now turned into cottages, presents a very ancient and picturesque appearance. It is said that large numbers of yeo- maniy are peculiar to Berkshire, and that at the beginning of the present century the number of yeo- men farming their own land in Berkshire was greater than in any other county of the same size. None of these, in all probability, farmed a larger number of acres than forty, fifty, or at the most eighty, but then they had the right of pasturage on the common or "folc land" of Stanford*. In illustration of this we « I remember the late Mr. Cowdcroy telling me that his father was accustomed to relate that, before the Euclosurc Act, the cows belong- ITS HISTOllT AND ANTIQUITIES. '63 find Bishop Latimer in a sermon mentioning- that his father was a yeoman having- no lands of his own^ })ut renting a farm of the annual value of 31. or 41. Thi.Sj he says, he tilled, employing- half a dozen men; but then, we are told, he had walk for an hundred sheep, that is, rig-ht of pasturage for so many. He was a substantial yeoman for those days, for he sent his son to school, and afterwards to the University of Cam- bridge. He was able to portion his daughters with 51. a piece, and " he kept hospitality for his poor neighbours, and some alms he gave to the poor." However, this was before the Reformation, for Lati- mer complains in 1549, that the same farm for which his father paid 3/. or 4.4. was then let for 16^. by the year. The yeomanry at this time in England usually lived in dwellings of timber, the walls being formed of wattled plaster, but it is probable that in this neighbourhood stone would be very generally used from the abundance to be found in the parish ; but all dwellings must have been of ruder construction than at present, for now the farmers of Berkshire occujiy the old Manor Houses of the gentry. Houses at that time were not all furnished witlj chimneys, the monasteries and manor houses had them, but they were not common in the 16th century. The yeo- ing to the difTercnt yeomeu were gathered togctlier each morning by the blowing of a horn, the cowherd calling loudly on the inhabitants to send out their cows to pasture, that this man had the charge of them during the day, and in the evening gave notice of his return in the same manner by blowing his horn. c 5 84 A BERKSHIRE VILLlGl f manry mostly lived together with their labourers in their kitchens^ the fire being' made against the wall or rere-dos, the smoke finding its way out at a hole in the roof. Many only slept on straw pallets covered with a canvas sheet and coarse coverlet. Then, perhaps^ instead of a bolster, they had a good round log. Sometimes the father or goodman of the house would have a mattress or flock bed, and a sack of chaff to rest his head on. Oftentimes their servants had no sheets at all, but lay on the straw. Then, all ate off wooden trenchers, and drank their beer out of wooden bowls, called biggins or piggins, the beer being drawn for use in deep black leathern or wooden pitchers called jacks. The sign of the ancient inn near the present railway station, called " The Leathern Bottle,^'' illustrates this custom. Few of the yeomanry had more than four or five pieces of pewi:er in their possession. For seats, they had rough stools, such as any man could make with a chopper, and sometimes settles — seats with a back oftentimes opening and forming a box. Joined or joint stools, that is, stools made properly by a joiner, were more luxurious. The taUes were formed by boards laid on tressels,so that they could be easily removed, as appears from an expression in " Romeo and Juliet,^' where Capulet exclaims — " A hall ! a hall ! give room and foot it girls ; More light, ye knaves, and turn the tables up '^." ' " Rouico and Juliet," Act i., Scene 5. Its history and antiquities. 35 The food of the Reformation period was coarser^ and much less varied than it is now. Only the gentry could afford to eat wheaten bread throughout the year. Servants and poor people ate bread made of barley or rye. Sometimes it was even made of beans, pease, and oats. There were then no potatoes, nor was it luitil the end of Heniy VIII.^s reign that any salads, car- rots, tiirnips, or other such like roots were produced in England. When Queen Katharine wanted a salad, she was obliged to despatch a messenger to Holland on purpose *. Salt meat was eaten throughout the winter. Cattle were slaughtered at Martinmas, and the meat salted for winter consumption. It may be inferred that much of the meat consumed by our ancestors was bacon, from the word larder, which is derived from the Latin laridum or lardum, and the monks of Abingdon called their receptacle for cold meats lardanarium. The names by which we call many of the rooms in houses at the present day throw light on old customs. Thus parlour is of course from parler, for people lived in kitchens or halls a kind of public life, surrounded by their servants ; but they had a room in which they went aside to parley. It certainly was not a sitting-room at this time, even in the houses of the gentry, for in the great house at Wadley we read of * See Hume's History of England. Henry VIII. c 6 36 A fiEitKSHIRfi VILLAGE : a bed in the parlour, and so also in the Vicarage at Stanford. FitzHerbert, who wrote a book on husbandry in 15'2'Z, speaks about the duties of farmers^ wives. In those days the housewife spun the wool and flax pro- duced on the farm. Respecting this custom, Fitz- Herbert tells us that it is not profitable for a woman wholly to devote herself to the distaff*, but, he re- marks, "it stoppeth up a gap, and must needs be had.^^ According to this writer, farmers^ ^^ives in the 16th century must have been patterns of diligence and industry. It was their duty to measure out the quantity of corn to be ground, and see that it was sent to the miller. They took care of the poultry and pigs, and superintended the brewing and baking. The garden was especially the care of the yeoman's wife. She had to depend upon it for various herbs which are now no longer in use, but which could not be dis- pensed with in times when spices were rare and costly. Besides pot-herbs, strewing-herbs were required for the chambers, andherbspossessingmedical virtues. Aknow- ledge of herbs still lingers in this neigh1)ourhood, but principally amongst aged women of the labouring class. The principal materials for clothing were obtained by the industry of each family. Sole-leather was kept in farmhouses, with which shoes might be mended as occasion required. Every yeoman more- over was expected to know how to make yokes and ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. '67 plough g-ear. Such work afforded profitable employ- ment in the winter evenings. Tims the Stanford people in those days must have fulfilled that ideal picture which the poet drew of the habits of the ancient Romans, whom he represents in the nights of winter drawing round the fire : — " When young and old in circle. Around the firebrands close; When the girls are weaving baskets, And the lads are shaping bows. " Wlien the good man mends his armour. And trims his helmet's plume ; When the good wife's shuttle merrily Goes flashing through the loom ^." Certainly in those days people in the country did not lead an easy, idle life. A writer in Queen Elizabeth-'s reign relates that, " In times past men were contented to dwell in houses builded of sallow, willow, &c., but now these woods are rejected, and nothing but oak anywhere regarded. And yet see the change. For when our houses were builded of willow then had we oaken men, but now that our houses are made of oak, our men are not only become willow, but a great many altogether of straw. Now we have many chimneys, and yet our tenderlines complain of rheums, catarrhs, and poses. Then we had none but rere-dosses, and our heads did never ache, for as the smoke in those days was sup- 9 " Lays of Ancient Rome." 38 A BERKSHIEE VILLAGE I posed to be a sufficient liardening for tlie timber of the house, so it was reputed a far better medicine to keep the goodman and his family from the quack or posse, where"n4th as then very few were acquainted." It is said that local peculiarities are wearing out in Berkshire, but one I rejoice to record has not yet de- parted, namely, the early and industrious habits of the inhabitants of the Vale. There is scarcely a farm- house in this neighbourhood where the duties of the day do not commence at the veiy earliest possible hour. For cows must be milked, and dairy- work attended to. The universal Stanford dinner-hour among all classes is half-past eleven, and the hour for tea half-past three. Fifteen years ago the children in the parochial school assembled at eight o^ clock, and even now they meet at half-past eight, half an hour earlier than is usual in most schools. The necessary dairy- work of the Vale is the means of training a hardy, useful, and industrious people, and of fostering the wholesome custom of early rising. An interesting document relating to this \dllage is preserved amongst the parish archives, viz. the Avill of Mr. Fawconer, vicar of Stanford in the time of the Reformation. lie held also the living of Shalburae or Chalburno, ill AViltshire. lie died in 1592, leaving a legacy of 2/. to eveiy man, woman, and child living in Stanford and Goosey. This legacy suggests how greatly the p(>})ulation of the country has increased. ITS HISTORY AND ANTiqUITIES. 3'J It has done so pai-ticularly in Stanford, into which strangers have flocked from neig-hhouring- villag-es. It is probable that the population of Stanford, at the time of Mr. Fawconer^s death, was less than half its present numbers. We may infer this by comparing- the population returns of 1801 with those of 18G1. In 1801 Stanford had a population of 607, but, in 1861, it had increased to 1075. This will, and the wills of the Unton family of the same date, published by the Berkshire Ashmolean Society, show us how customary it was in those days to bequeath articles of clothing. Mr. Fawconer divides his clothes amongst his friends and amongst the poor of his parish. Thus we find entries as fol- lows : " I give and bequeath to Mr. Thomas Pincke, curate of Shulburn, my best gown, and my best coat furred with floynes." " I give and bequeath to Ed- mund Whitehorn my old frieze coat, one pair of my hose, a doublet, and a shirt. ^' '' I give and bequeath to Sir Roger Wollaston, a poor priest, my rugg gown, and in money twenty shillings, and do forgive him the debt that he oweth me." This last bequest illus- trates the history of the times, and shows into what distress the Reformation had plunged many of the clergy. Numbers, it is said, at this time became carpenters, and tailors, and even keepers of ale-houses. Others were forced to go to service as domestics, to turn clerks of the kitchen, surveyors, or receivers. 40 A BERKSHIUE "VILLAGE : Another legacy left by Mr. Fawconer is one of 31. 6s. Sd. to poor scholars. " I give and bequeath SI. 6s. Sd. to be distributed by mine executors* dis- cretion to ten poor scholars in Oxford that be towardly in learning and good condition.'" Tliis legacy re- minds us that although learning afterwards revived, yet for a time it received great discouragement from the dissolution of the monastic schools^ and indeed it is said that immediately after the Reformation the Universities were almost deserted. Another bec^uest^ namely a sum of money, the interest of which was to be applied to the keeping up the highway between Stanford and Wantage, shows us the bad state of the roads at that time. The soil of the Vale is a strong grey loam, mixed with large quantities of vegetable mould, and the stone quarried at Stanford, and used for many years for making and repairing the roads is limestone, in the stratum of which fossil shells, and other marine productions, are found in abundance. This stone, however, is by no means the best for road-making, and a great modern improvement is the imjwrtation of harder stone from Uie neighbourhood of Bristol. Stanford doubtless, in Mr, Fawconer's day, must have been what it remains at present, a muddy place, and it must have been hardly possible to distinguish in the dusk the high- way from the unenclosed heath on either side. Another legacy consisted of five shillings a piece, ITS HISTORY AND ANTiqUITIES. 41 and coats and g-owns to a large number of Mr. Faw- coner^s god-children^ amongst whom were the names of Franklin^ Tyrrold, Spinage, Lambourne, White- horne, Cox. A legacy to John Cox was as follows : " I give and bequeath unto John Cox, sometime my servant, in money 20*., and 20*. 8^/. that Thomas Barlow the butcher owetli me for a pig, and a heifer that the said John Cox sold him.^' Another bequest was one by which Mr. Fawconer^'s name is still thankfully remembered in Stanford, for he leaves money " to portion poor maydes on their marriages, born within the parish of Stanford.^^ Mr. Fawconer endeavoured to remember every one in his will ; neither did he forget the poor of the neighbouring parishes, for he left ten shillings to each of the villages of Shellingford, Pusey, and Buckland. He left the residue of his property, after his debts were paid, to be divided into three parts, one was the poor mayde^s portion, one that which was to go towards the repair of the highway, and the third he di- rected to be spent for the relief of poor prisoners abroad. Before the Reformation the church at Stanford was served by three clergymen, a priest, a deacon, and sub-deacon. From the " Inventory,^^ taken in 1553, a copy of which is given in the Appendix,' we ' See Appendix. This inventory is to be found at the beginning of a valuable volume — the original record of the accounts of the churchwardens of Stanford from the year 1553. 42 A BERKSHIRE VILLAGE : find that it was very^ rich in plate and vestments. The interior of the church presented a very different appearance to that which it does at present. At the point where the chancel is divided from the body of the church, there was, near the roof, a galleiy in which were placed a Crucifix, and on either side figures of the Blessed Virgin and St. John. The Crucifix was called the rood, and the gallery on which it stood the rood-loft. The ancient staircase leading to this gallery is now to be seen at the east end of the present aisle. In the rood-loft there were altars, as is shovm by entries in the Churchwardens' Book, at which masses were said, and in it " before the rood " a light constantly burned. Tliis gallery was removed at the Reformation, and in the " Inventory " mention is made of the Church possessing "a hjhidl, 2 lolces of Comon Prayer, a Salter all in Englj/s/ie." Tliese entries mark a change for which we cannot be too thankful. \Miereas the service was before in Latin, a tongue not understood by the people, henceforward all were enabled to worship God in their own language. In the place of a mutilated mass, men were now per- mitted to communicate after the practice of Apostolic times. Again, this '' Inventory " records the ves- sels which were brought again to light, to be used according to the old fashion, in Mary's reign, and of certain costly vestments woi'ked by the hands of Dame Dorothy Phetyplayse Voy, one who clung ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 43 to those ceremonies to which she had been accus- tomed. One of the coiTuptions which had grown up in the Church, and which made reformation so necessary, was the strange mixture of religious ceremony and worldly amusement. This is seen by the manner in which fairs were held. Tliey were often opened in the immediate vicinity of the church, sometimes in the churchyard. Inscriptions were raised calling upon men to deal honestly with each other, not to steal, not to cheat, not to go beyond or defraud a brother in any matter. Wandering friars often preached on these occasions to the people, and the church doors were left open inviting men to enter and worship. Many abuses, however, grew up in connexion with these fairs, and in Henry III.^s reign the Papal legate I'eminded Englishmen that churches were built for purposes of jirayer, and decreed that no market shoidd be held in churches. Again, in Edward I.'s reign, an Act of Parliament was passed forbidding fairs and markets being held in churchyards. In the old Stanford Churchwardens' Book we meet with entries of money " received for the gaynes of the May ale." This was sometimes called Whitsun ale. It was a parochial feast said to be derived from the love feasts of the early Christians, and it was so called from the Churchwardens' buying and laying in from presents a large quantity of malt which they brewed into 44 A BERKSHIRE VILLAGE : beer, and sold out in the church or elsewhere. The profits, as well as those from sundry games (there being no poor rates), were given to the poor, for whom this was one mode of provision. The Church- wardens^ Book also makes continual mention of the Church House. There was one of these in every parish, to which belonged spits, crocks, and other utensils for dressing provisions. Here the people met, the young people engaging in dancing, bowling, shooting at butts, &c., the elder sitting by. A tree was erected by the church door, where a banner was placed, and maidens stood gathering contributions. An arbour also, called Robin Hood^s bower, was put up in the churchyard. Tlaese meetings often led, as might be supposed, to great desecration of the church and churchyard, and a canon made in the reign of James I. enacts that "the Churchwardens, or Quest- men and their assistants, are to suffer no plays, feasts, banquets, suppers, church ales, drinkings, temporal courts or lete, lay juries, musters, or other profane usage to be kept in the church, chapel, or church- yard.'^ Again, the Churchwardens' Book contains entries of " money received for the font." This was a col- lection made by two young women at Whitsuntide from house to house, part of the proceeds of which was spent in buying the figure of a dove, which was suspended from the roof of the Church in order to ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 45 represent the Holy Spirit, and the remainder of the money collected was g-iven to the poor. Another custom alluded to in this same book is the ring-ing of bells on the eve of AH Saints' Day. We find entries as follows : " Received from the maydes at All Ilullowtide towards the belles." This refers to the custom of certain young* women walking about the parish dressed in black, ringing a dismal tolling bell, and calling upon all persons to remember the souls in purgatory, and to give them the aid of their prayers. Another entry in the book is as follows : " For watching the Sepulchre." This alludes to the practice of placing" the crucifix wrapped in linen in a recess formed on the north side of the altar on Easter Eve, to represent our Lord's burial. There it was watched by certain appointed persons till early on Easter morning. Then the crucifix was uncovered with certain ceremonies, the priests and deacons ask- ing* questions of one another, acting over, as in a play, the Gospel account of the Resurrection. For instance, several would come stealing towards the tomb, as if looking for something ; then one at the sepulchre would begin singing in a soft voice, " Whom seek ye ? " to which would be replied, " Jesus of Nazareth." To this the other would answer, " He is not here ; He is risen.'' Then they replied, " Alleluia, the Lord is risen !" The other then, as if calling them back, sang, " Come, and see the place," and then 46 A BERKSHIRE ^^LLAGE : rising- would raise the cloth, and show them the place without the crucifix, and the linen clothes in which it was wi'apped *. Other entries in the Churchwardens' Book are interesting". Thus we have sums of money " payd for Smoake farthings." Tliis was a yearly rent paid by the inhabitants of a diocese at Whitsuntide when they made the customary procession to the cathedral or mother church, which, in the case of Stanford, was that of Salisbury. A farthing- was collected from every house as a composition for the customary dues. Again there are entries such as '' a hooke of Collects to pray for Pope Julius;" " Pay d for the Paschal taper ;" " Payd for the Rode lyghte, the holy oil and Chrism, for frankincense, for wending the censers ;" and a yearly sum of four shilling-s paid " to the Bog- whipper." Respecting this office of dogtohipper, it is stated in Lyson's Environs of London that he anciently wore a vizard and a cap. His duty, it is evident, was to prevent dogs, of which in the absence of a dog tax there must have been man}', straying into the church. He, as also the parish clerk, is a very ancient officer of the Church. The late dogwhipper at Stanford, who still lives, was John Plummer, a pensioned sergeant of dragoons. After serving with distinction in the Peninsulnr war, his latter days have been spent in ' For account of this and other ancient customs sec Fosbroke's Antiquities. ITS HISTOHY AND ANTIQUITIES. 47 •guarding the church from the incursions of the Stan- ford boys. His white head and tall person^ his scrupulously clean and neat Sunday apparel and white doe-skin g-loves, will long* be remembered in this vil- lage. Parish clerks were anciently really poor clerks or clergymen. From the time of Henry III. parish clerks formed a guild or fraternity, and were cele- brated for their skill in church music, an accomplish- ment in which they are still requii'ed l)y the canon to be learned, if it may be. Their ancient duty at church was to assist the priest at the altar, sing with him, and read the epistle. In some places they read the lessons. Upon working days they attended the schools '. In the porch or south door of churches parishioners used to meet to settle law disputes, pay rents, &c., and over them was often a room used as a school or as a repository for books. One of these may be seen over the porch in Uffington Church, in which there is an original fire-place and chimney. Another, now destroyed, might have been seen some years ago at Denchworth. Over the porch there was a room erected in 1693, containing about one hundred and twenty volumes of books, principally on divinity, in folio and quarto. These books were attached by long chains to their cases, and were intended as a theo- logical library for the successive vicars of Dench- ' Since this lecture was commenced our Parish Clerk, Joseph King, after many years of faithful service, has been taken from us. 48 A BERKSHIEE TILLAGE : worth. The porch has been removed, but the volumes still remain, many of them with their chains in the custody of the present \4car. Amongst the books is a copy of Cranmer's Bible, the works of St. Tliomas Aquinas, the works of Barrow, &c. The room was built by Mr. Geering", and the books were the g-ift of Mr. Geering, Mr. Ralph Kedden, \acar of Denchworth, and Mr. Edward Brewster, stationer, of London. Mr. Geering was lord of the manor of Denchworth, and a member of the Honourable Society of Gray's Inn. The old parish church of Stanford was restored about ten years ago through the exertions of the present Yicar, under the direction of Mr. Street. Considerable judgment has been showTi in retaining all its really ancient features, whilst all that was unseemly has been swept away. It is to be regretted that such like restoration did not earlier take place in many of the churches of this neighbourhood. It must be a subject of regret that so many memorials of the ])ast have been suffered to perish, such for instance as the ancient glass which formerly adorned many of them. Some of the most interesting churches in the Yale are those of Childrey, Hanney, and Chamey, which, unless a timely restoration is effected, must suffer greatly in consequence. It is, liowever, a matter of congratidation that the greater number of churches in this neighbourhood have been carefully renovated. It is now very rare, though still sonietimes ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 40 a church is to he met with, like that descrihed hy Bishop Ilorne in 1787. "In a certain vilkig'e/' he writes,, " within sight of the church, there stood a g'entleman''s seat, whicli was hud out with all the eleg-ance that could be bestowed upon the house and grounds. The churchyard joined to the j)ark. Having surveyed everything, it being Sunxlay, I went into the church, to which one miserable bell, much like a small porridge-pot, called half a dozen people, which number comprehended the congregation. The churchyard itself was low and wet ; a broken gate the entrance ; a few small wooden tombs and an old yew tree the only ornaments. The inside of the church answered the outside ; the walls green with damp ; a few broken benches, with pieces of mats, dirty, and very ragged ; the stairs to the pulpit half worn away ; the communion table stood upon three legs ; the rails worm-eaten, and half gone. Who can expect,^^ he asks, " that the young and gay will prefer this scene to the pleasures of the world ? It is not in general to be expected. Would but the rich and great in everj^ village who lavish sums of money on their own per- sons, furniture, houses, grounds, &c., would they but bestow a little of it towards making the house of God, if not equal with their own habitations, at least decent and cheerful, very great indeed would be the effect on multitudes. We naturally call to mind the uneasiness felt and expressed by the royal prophet, 5 50 A BERKSniEE VILLAGE : Oil considering tlie mag-nifieence of his own house, and the little or no care taken of the Ark of God *." Stanfoi'd Church ' still consists of its original Nave, Chancel, and Aisle, and it has a roof of dark oak. The chancel is paved with INIinton^s tiles, and is fitted with handsome oak stalls. Behind the altar is a reredos in (^^loured tiles, on which are emhossed ears of corn, alternately with bunches of grapes. Over it is the text, " Come unto Me, ye that labour and are heavy laden, and I will give you rest." There is a large east window, in the lights of which are depicted, in stained glass, different events in our Lord's public ministry. At the top some ancient glass still remains, representing the living creatures and the wheels in EzekiePs vision. Three windows on the south side of the chancel contain the arms of the De Clares and the royal arms, together with some modern glass. At the bottom are placed the versicles from the Te Deum, " To Thee Cherubin and Scraphin continually do cry, Holy, holy, holy, Lord God of Sabaoth : Tlie Father of an infinite Majesty ; Thine honourable, true, and only Son ; Also the Holy Ghost the Comforter.'" There is an aperture or hagioscope in the north chancel wall, tlirough which the altar may be seen from the aiyle. On the north of the altar there is an « Bp. Home, 011a Podrida. * For the sketch of f^tanford Clnntli iu the frontisiiieco, I am iudchtcd to Miss Wordsworth. ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 51 ancient awmry, and on the south a piscina, and over it a canopied tabernacle. The nave and aisle are fitted with open seats, and at the west end of the nave is the tower, in which is placed a wooden font lined with lead. In the tower there is a small pointed window, fdled with stained g-lass, representing our Lord as the Good Shepherd bearing a child in His arms. A beautiful effect is produced by the rays of the setting sun falling upon the window, which reflect its subject perfectly on the wall. At the west end of the aisle is a window filled with stained glass in three compartments, representing the Annunciation, the Mes- sage to the Shepherds, and the Adoration of the Magi. This, also, when lighted by the setting sun, is very beautiful, the angels appearing as if lifting up their wings in an attitude of adoration. The ancient custom still lingers in Stanford Church of the men and women sitting on different sides, and I have seen an aged woman curtsey at the Gloria. The communion plate in use at Stanford has been used for many years. Tlie cup, which is furnished with a cover, bears the date 1585. The paten and flagon are both interesting memorials of individual piety. The paten was dedicated by Jolm and Eliza- beth Ilutton, December 8th, 1711, plainly as a thank-offering for past mercies, for on it is engraven, " I will pay Thee my vows which I promised with my lips, and spake with my mouth when I was in trouble." D 2 52 A BEllKSHIEE TILLAGE : This Mr. Hutton became about that time vicar of Stauford. The Flagon was dedicated in the following terms : " This Flagon is dedicated to the use of the altar in the Parish Church of Stanford in the Yale for ever^ by Joseph Cox, Esq., and Catherine Sophia liis wife, as an humble testimony of their unfeigned thanks to Almighty God for the recovery of their three children, Thomas, Sophia, and Charlotte, from the Small Pox, by inoculation 1752.^' ' Since this lecture was commenced a considerable fund has been raised by public subscription, and a small church-rate, for the repair of the church path, and the church clock. The church path has been neatly ])aved with stone, and the clock refaced, cleaned, and restored. A public thoroughfare through a churchyard is not perhaps in itself very desirable, and probably in former times no such right of way existed. Still such a thoroughfare is not without advantages. Anciently, we know the approach to the imperial «'ity of Rome was by a street of tombs. The praetors and proconsuls, hastening to their provinces along the Appian Way, passed for miles through a road crowded on either side with lofty tombs, and votive edifices to the dead. By these they were continually reminded of the passing natiire of human greatness ; and how much more should Christians be reminded of (Icatli and resurrection, by passing 1)y the graves of the de]>arted. For h.ow difl'cront is the teaching of ITS TtlSTOUY AND ANTiqUITIES. 5.*i our humble graves from the lofty tombs of the de- parted heathen. The tombs along the Roman higii- ways contained the ashes of the great, and sometimes of their faithful and favoured freedmen ; but wluit became of the mass of the vulgar dead, the poor, the slaves? They were east into vast pits, dug indif- ferent parts of the outskirts of the city, the largest and most famous on the Esquilinc Ilill. There they were fed upon by foul birds of prey. When we pass through our churchyard we are reminded, not of the rich only, but specially of the poor who have a common hope of the resurrection of the body. Be- cause we so believe — even that the grave will one day give up her dead — we treat the body as a holy thing, and treasure up not only the ashes of the rich, as the heathen did in sepulchral urns, but the bodies of the poor, each in his own peaceful resting--place. Many superstitions grew up in mediaeval times in connexion with churchyards. We hear of persons being afraid of going through them at night, an appre- hension derived from the heathen belief that departed spirits came out of the tombs, and wandered about the place where the body lay. Another superstition, supposed to be derived from the Druids, is, that the ghost of the person last buried wanders round the churchyard till another is interred. Such notions are entirely unworthy of Christian people, who need only fear the workings of an evil conscience. The oldest u 54 A BERKSHIRE TILLAGE : tombstones in our churchyard are prismatic in form, of which there are severah One stone, coffin-shaped, on which is rudely carved a cross, is connected with a foolish tale of a g"ipsy and a fryingpan. It is, pro- bably, one of the most ancient in the churchyard. Some of the tombstones in Stanford churchyard are beautifully carved. They are said to be the work- manship of a family of the name of Strong", who for many years were masons at Stanford, and who were famous in the country round. It is to be regretted that such skill as theirs was not more universally in request, for many of the grave-stones are of a very heavy and unworkmanlike appearance. Remembering how much people are affected by outward things, by objects of beauty, it would seem that reverence and affection towards the departed should make us anxious to perpetuate their memories by tasteful and beautiful memorials. Tliere can be no religion in ugliness, and it can only sei'\'e to discourage a visit to the spot where our friends lie interred. Former generations were at greater pains to erect suitable memorials to the departed. For instance, what can be more simple and more beautiful than the ancient brasses, of which such perfect specimens are to be seen in Hanney and Childrey chiirches. Or what, again, more simply affecting than the stone cross, the symbol of our sal- vation, and universally used by Christians in the purest times, before corruptions grew up in the ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 55 Church of God. Formerly, crosses were placed at the entrances of all churches in order to inspire recol- lection and reverence amongst those about to enter. The remains of one, we all know, may still be seen at the entrance of Goosey Chapel. Crosses were for- merly erected in many places, and wherever they were placed, they were intended to check a worldly spirit. They were erected in market-places, in order to incul- cate upright intentions and fairness of dealing. Tliey were placed by the side of highways to restrain rob- beries, and to call the thoughts of the passenger to a sense of religion. The cross certainly seems a suit- able s}Tiibol to mark that the departed looked to our Saviour^s death upon the Cross, as his comfort in the hour of death. Greater care, too, is certainly desirable in the selec- tion of appropriate epitaphs on tombstones. Some are shocking exhibitions of bad taste and a low state of I'cligious feeling. For instance, I have read one as follows : " Here lieth the lord of this manor, who was esteemed a fine gentleman by all who knew him." Here there is no expression of penitence or hope, but only a miserable attempt at flattery. Surely all lau- datory epitaphs are entirely out of place on the tomb- stones of the dead. The early Christians contented themselves by simply painting or engra\'ing on the tombs of their departed friends difierent unpretending symbols, which marked on what the foundation of D 4 S6 A BERKSHIEE \^LLAGE : their hopes for the departed were based. Tlius in the re- cently opened catacombs at Rome> in which the first Christians were buried, the symbol of the fish con- tinually appears, the initial letters of 'It^ctoi)? XpcaT6<; 0€ov Tio'i Scorrjp, forming" the Greek word IXGTS, which sig-nifies a fish. On others, the fish appears, to- gether with, bread and wine, on a table. On others was found painted a priest or bishoj) in the act of conse- crating the elements, with a kneeling figure of a female, doubtless representing the Church. On the tombs of martyrs were simply cut the name, followed by " martyr.^^ In such ways the early Christians were contented to mark the resting-places of those who needed no laudatory epitaph, whose only hopes were based on the Sa\'iour, on the promises made to penitent communicants that they should be raised up at the last day. Churchyards had anciently lych-gnies or sheds at their entrance, where the coqise rested for interment until the arriyal of the priest, a building which may still be seen in many old churchyards, and the conveni- ence of which ought to lead to its general re-adoption. The reason why tombstones are often found crowded on the south side of the church is said to be because the prayers of the congregation were in those times desired for the dead, and the entrance to the church, through which the people passed, was the south door. This is not done now, because, as we do not know for ITS HISTOTJY AXD ANTIQUITIES. 57 certain the final state of any, we cannot benefit indi- vidual souls by our prayers, although we pray " that we, with all those that are departed in the true faith of Christ's holy Name, may have our perfect consum- mation and bliss, both in body and soul, in His eternal and everlasting- glory." Sometimes a ring for a catch is found on ancient church doors, as on that at Stanford. This, it is said, was that which was laid hold of by persons flying to the church for sanctuary. The tower of Stanford church forms one of the most distinguished objects in the Vale. It is fur- nished with six bells, all of which were recast earl}- iii the eighteenth century. A bell is always rung on Sunday morning at half-past seven. Three strokes upon each bell are always given on the death of a man or boy, and two for women or girls. These three strokes, it is said, are given in honour of the Trinity, one less to a woman to mark her inferiority. The bell, now improperly rung afteY a person's death, was origi- ginally intended for the person dying, not actually dead, and was called the " passing bell." It was a signal to the priest to hasten to the bed-side of the dying per- son, and to the people to pray for a so\d passing into eternity. And now, having dwelt at some length on the old church and its appendages, I would pass to the old Manor House which adjoins the churchyard wall. D 5 58 A BERKSHiEE \t;llage : The great !Manor House of Stanford was that now- occupied as a farmhouse by Mr. Charles Hunter. From the will of Sir T. Fettiplace of Childrey it appears that in the reign of Henrj^ VIII. the manor of Stanford was his property. AVhether by marriage or purchase^ it soon afterwards passed into the posses- sion of Sir Francis Knollys^ K.G.^ Yice-Chamberlain, and Captain of the Guard to Queen Elizabeth. His name is connected with an interesting period of Eng- lish history. He was sent by the Queen to escort the unfortunate Maiy^ Queen of Scots, when she sought hospitality in England. He appears to have been much captivated by her manners, and not to have much relished the office he had to perform, especially as he was suifered to bear much of the expense him- self. He was the father of a numerous family. One of his sons was created the first Earl of Banbury. One of his daughters was still more famous, for she was the notorious Lettice Knollvs, who married the first time Walter, Earl of Essex, and on his death, as was re- ported by poison, she married a second time the famous Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, the un- wortliy favourite of Queen Elizabeth, whose histoiy is woven by Sir Walter Scott into the novel of " Kenil- worth.'^ At tlie time of this marriage Amy llobsart, of Cumnor Hall, was dead. Sir Francis Knollys had other children more worthy of his name, in ]iarticular, Richard Knf)llys of Stanford, on whom alone of all ITS HISTORY AXD ANTIQUITIES. 59 his sons lie is said to have bestowed his spiritual blessing-. Either by Sir Francis or his son, Stanford Manor House was built. Certainly Richard Knollys was the builder of the great barn which forms so picturesque an object as seen from Foot Ball Close. On it have been lately discovered certain letters, cut in the stone, which are the initials of himself and his children, his wife, and his wife's brother, John Higham, with the date, 1618. The eldest son of Richard Knollys was Sir Robert Kfiollys, and his youngest Captain Francis Knollys, to whom there is a monument in the chancel, lately restored by Mr. Bj^am, who is descended from his daughter Dorothy. Anciently this house must have been a place of considerable pretensions. Much has been pulled down in the memory of persons living, but even now it bears many traces of the wealth and position of its former owners. There is a fine old oaken staircase, the stairs and landing of which are beautifully inlaid in diamond oaken patterns. There is also remaining what was formerly a handsome stone hall, though now the principal entrance is closed up, and the hall in- cluded in a sitting-room. Some handsome bed- chambers still remain ; one is in panel, and another is still covered with ancient tapestry. The walls of the tapestried chamber show traces of beautiful painting. Tlie tapestry itself is worked with figures of men, D 6 60 A BERKSHIEE VILLAGE : animals^ and trees, and seems to represent Chinese or Indian scenery. Almost all the rooms have handsome stone chimney-pieces. There are many cupboards in this old house, and thoug-h one of them certainly con- tains very excellent g-rape and black currant ^-ine, there was one possessing* still more valuable contents in the year 1G31, for Letitia Knollys left to her uncle by will, " the contents of my closet in the house at Stanford.^^ Many strange secrets, doubtless, could that old house unfold. The g-ood-natured face and bald head of its present tenant are very familiar to us, and we can only hope that the ancient lords of the manor possessed some of his good qualities. Oftentimes, from the present farm g-ates, there must have rolled a heavy coach and six. Oftentimes must Master Richard Knollys have come forth himself, dressed in a rich jacket, with a feathered hat, and boots with larg-e pro- jecting tops, a sword by his side, and a staff in his hand, for such was the costume of men in his rank of life in the beginning of the seventeenth century. Sometimes thus apparelled he may have graced the sports on the village green, and like another Sir Roger de Cover! ey have danced round the May -pole, for the Stanford folk did dance round the May-pole in those times, as appears from an entry in our Churcli- wardens^ Book in 1022, ^^ Receyved for the topp of the May -pole." Another costume common amongst the middle ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 61 classes a little earlier would probably long- linger at Stanfox'd, viz. a dress not unlike that worn hy the boys of Christ's Hospital in London^ a long" g-own, over a petticoat or doublet, with a flat cap. A furred gown also was worn, as is mentioned in Mr. Faw- coner's will, a rejiresentation of which is preserved in the livery gown of the City of London. Costumes were brighter in those daj's ; other colours than black being worn, such as scarlet and blue. The ladies of this period invented a kind of doublet, with high wings and pufled sleeves. They also wore fardingales, that is, immense hooped petticoats. Other costumes were long boddices, with or without skirts or close- bodied gowns over them, with petticoats. They also wore ruffs and tippets. Some ladies indulged them- selves in enormous head-dresses; others wore flat caps like the men, with feathers at the side. The widow of Richard Knollys married a son or grandson of the famous Jack of Newbury. His maidens are described as arrayed while they spin — " In petticoats of stamel red, Aud milk-white kerclicrs on their head; Their smock sleeves like to winter snow. That on the western mountains flow. And each sleeve with a silken band Was fairly tied at the hand." The Manor House at Stanford was, as we have said, evidently a considerable place, but another still more important was the great house at Wadley. Wadley 62 A BERKSHIRE \aLLAGE : House lies about three miles from Stanford, within a small park which contains a few noble trees. An annual fair is held on Old Lady Day, by ancient charter, within the precincts of the park. The word " Wadley " is derived, it is supposed, from Wade, the name of one of the Saxon gods, the reputed father- of " Weland the Smythe.^^ He is connected in some way with water. Wadley once belong-ed to Stanley Abbey, in Wiltshire, Ijut in the reign of Henry VI. it ■ passed into the hands of Oriel College, Oxford. The house at Wadley, at the time of the Keformation, was inhabited by Sir Thomas Unton, and it continued to be the family residence of the Untons until the beginning of the seventeenth century. The family of the Untons connect this neighbourhood with much that is interest- ing in the history of the time. In the reign of Queen Mary one member of this family, viz. Sir Edward Unton, married Anne, Countess of Warwick, whose first marriage was one of the most memorable ever contracted by a subject in England. Lady Anne Sey- mour, by her first marriage Countess of Warwick, and afterwards the wife of Sir Edward Unton, was a daughter of the Protector, Duke of Somerset, and first cousin to the young king, Edward VI. Between her father and the Duke of Northumberland tliore was great rivalry, but in order to efTect a truce between them this lady was given in marriage to the Earl of Warwick, the Duke of Northuml)crland's son. It ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. G3 was, in fact, a political marriag-e. The rejoicings upon this marriage were soon turned into tears, for in the course of a few weeks fresh enmity sprang up between the families of her husband and her father, and a short time afterwards her father was beheaded on Tower Hill. After two years her father-in-law was likewise executed, and his four sons, including the Earl of Warwick, imprisoned. After his father^s execution, her husband in his turn was tried and con- demned. Whoever visits the Tower of London \vill be shown, in a room in the Beauchamp Tower, a very curious carving on the right hand of the lire-place, cut by the Earl of Warwick when in prison. It re- presents a chained bear and lion supporting between them a ragged staff, some lines in verse being carved beneath. This nobleman was delivered out of prison, but died ten days afterwards. His widowed countess then married, in Hatford church. Sir Edward Unton, the record of which marriage is to be found in the Hatford register. This marriage connected the family of Unton with many of the noblest families in the land, and even with royalty itself. His mansion in- deed seems to have been of a princely character. It may give some idea of it if I mention some of the rooms. Tliere was a chapel, a hall, a great chamber, a parlour, a long gallery, a stud}-, a draA\nng chamber. There was the gentlewoman's chamber, my lady's chamber, the chapel chamber, the new chamber, the 64 A BERKSHIRE YLLhA.G'E '. little chamber next the new chamber^ the maiden^s chamber, the wainscot chamber, and a great many- more. There was a kitchen, a buttery, a pastry -house, a dry larder, a wet larder, a store-house, a brew-house, a bake-house, an armoury-house, and porter^s lodge. It was elaborately furnished; for instance, in the parlour there was a long table and a frame, one table and a square frame, one livery cupboard, three green carpets, two green cloth chairs, one black Avi-ought velvet chair, laid with silver and gold lace, three long cushions of red satin, laid with gold lace, thirteen green cloth stools, six leather stools, one cushion of Turkey work. In my lady's chamber there were hangings of dornex, a folding bedstead covered with green cloth and laid with watchet lace, surmounted with eight plumes of feathers, two chairs, and two little green stools. Such are specimens of the manner in which great houses were furnished in the reign of Elizabeth. Such was the great house at "Wadlcy in 1573. Then this neighl)ourhood was honoured by a visit from the Virgin Queen, Queen Elizabeth, of glorious memory. She came to Wadley in July, 1574, and no doubt on 1h;i< occasion there were great rejoicings. Then, pro- bably, all ilic neighbouring gentry would hasten to do her honour. The Knollys, of Stanford ; the Yates, >^ of Biickland ; the Puseys, of Pusey ; the Fettiplaces, of Childrey ; the Ilydes, of Dcnchworlli ; the xVysh- ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 65 combcSj of Lyford; the Packers, of Shelliiig-fordj would come, mounted and attended, to many a hunting- and hawking- party, to many a masque and pageant, in order to do honour to the Queen, In the train of Sir P\'ancis Knollys, or his son, might veiy well have been found a Giles Gosling and a Mike Lambourne, for Goslings and Lambournes and Varneys are names that have flourished in Stanford for centuries. Sir Walter Seott, in his novel of " Kenilworth,^^ by the names which he introduces, shows his acquaintance with this part of Berkshire, and indeed he is said to have often been a guest at the house of the Rev. Dr. Hughes, Vicar of UfRngton. Cumnor Hurst may be seen from the top of Stanford Church. One amusement, we have reason to think, was pro- vided for the Queen when she came to Wadley, viz. masquerading, for there was a picture existing not long ago representing" a masque at the marriage of one of the Untons. The following description of it was given in the Gentleman's Magazine for 1786 : — " Here we see the masquers march in order round the table. The chief masquer is Diana, who is preceded by Mercury. Before him stand two Cupids, the one black, the other white.'' On the occasion of this visit Sir Edward Unton presented the Queen with a hand- some jewel, which is thus descril)ed in an official document : " First one juell of golde, garnished with dyamondes and rubyes and fyve perles, pendente, one 66 A BERKSHIRE VILLAGE : big-g'er than the rest/' Sir Edward had before given her Majesty "one fayre flower golde enamelled, and garnished with a chrysolite and an emeralde, and fully furnished with rubyes, dyamondes, and perles, and three perles pendante." Again, in 1580, he gave her " A payre of bracelets of golde containing sixteen pieces, in every one of them a small ruby garnished with a small perle/^ Another distinguished member of this family was Sir Henry Unton, the friend and kinsman of Sir Philip Sidney. He was present with him at the siege of Zutphen, and was there knig-hted for his bravery. At the public funeral of Sidney, Sir Henry Unton walked among- the twelve knig-hts of his kins- men and friends. He was sent by Queen Elizabeth as ambassador to France, and when some slighting word was spoken by the young Duke Henri de Guise ag-ainst the honour of his queen. Sir Henry sent him this famous challeng-e : " Forasmuch as in the lodg- ing of the Lord Dumayne, and in public elsewhere, impudently and indiscreetly and over boldly you spoke badly of my sovereign, whose sacred person I in this country represent : to maintain both by word and weapon her honour which was never called in question amongst people of honesty and virtue. I say you have most wickedly lied in speaking so badly of my sovereign ; and you will do nothing but lie wherever you shall dare to tax her honour. IMorcover, that her sacred person, being one of the most complete, accom- ITS HISTORY AXD ANTIQUITIES. (37 plishedj and virtuous princesses in the world, ought not to be ill-spoken of by the malicious tongue of such a perfidious traitor to her law and countiy as you are ; and hereupon I do defy and challenge your person to mine, with such manner of arms as you shall like or choose, be it on horseback or on foot. Nor would I have you think that there is any inequality of person between us ; I being issued of as great a race and noble house, in all respects, as yourself. So assigning me an indifferent place, I will there maintain my words, and the lie which I have given, and which you should not endure, if you have any courage at all in you. If you consent not to meet me hereupon, I will hold you, and cause you to be held, for the ar- rantest coward, and most slanderous slave, that exists in France. I expect your answer," &c. The late Mr. Hearn, rector of Hatford, the friend and correspondent of Dr. Arnold, a great lover of his- torical antiquities, and in whose church Sir Edward Unton was married to the Countess of Warwick, used to please himself by imagining that Sir Henry Unton and Sir Philip Sidney may both have played at bowls in his garden. We, too, may well imagine that Queen Elizabeth could not have left Wadley without paying a visit to Stanford, and accepting some jewel from that good knight Sir Francis Knollys, or his son Master Richard Knollys. In the parish church of Farinffdon there are several monuments of Sir GS A BERKSHIRE VILLAGE ! Alexander, Sir Edward, Sir Thomas, and Sir Henry Unton. During this reign, the bishop of the diocese ' was John Jewel, the famous author of " The Apo- logy j" to him our churchwardens must have made their presentments, as the churchwardens' book tells us. He and Sir Francis Knollys were friends and companions in exile during Mary's reign. He was also the friend and patron of another famous man, who profited by the good offices of Sir Francis Knollys, for when the judicious Hooker, the author of '' The Ecclesiastical Polity,''^ was turned out from his fellowship at Corpus Christi College, Oxford, it was to Sir Francis Knollys application was made for his restoration ^ Some may take pleasure in remembering Hooker's visit to Jewel, when at the Bishop's parting with him he " gave him good counsel and his benedic- tion, but forgot to give him money, which, when the Bishop had considered, he sent a servant in all haste to call Richard back to him. And at Richard's re- turn, the Bishop said to him, ^ Richard, I sent for you back to lend you a horse, which hath carried me many a mile, and I thank God with much ease,' and l)resently delivered into his hand a walking-staff, with which he professed he had travelled through many parts of Germany. And he said, ' Richard, I do not • Uutil a coniparativi'ly recent date this pint of Berkshire was ia the diocese of Salisbury. 7 Walton's Life of Hooker. Wordsworth's Eccl. Biog. ITS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES. 69 give, but lend you my horse ; be sure you be honest, and bring my horse back to me at your return this way to Oxford. And I do now give you ten groats to bear your charges to Exeter; and here is ten groats more which I charge you to deliver to your mother, and tell her I send a Bishop^s benediction u-ith it, and beg the continuance of her prayers for me. And if you bring my horse back to me I will give you ten groats more to carry you on foot to the college, and so God bless you, good Richard,^ " This is the incident wliich ffave rise to one of the ecclesiastical sonnets of the late Poet Laureate. " Methinks that I covild trip o'er heaviest soil, Lififht as a buoyant bark from wave to wave. Were mine the trusty staff that Jewel gave To youthful Hooker ; in familiar style The gift exalting, and with playful smile. For thus equipp'd, and bearing on his head, The donor's farewell blessing, can he dread Tempest, or length of way, or weight of toil ? More sweet than odours caught by him who sails Near spicy shores of Araby the blest. A thousand times more exquisitely sweet. The freight of holy feeling which we meet. In thoughtful moments, wafted by the gales. From fields where good men walk, or bowers wherein they rest." Those silver coins called groats, some of which Jewel gave to Hooker, must have been familiar enough to the people of Stanford, for one of them was shown to me the other day which was found in the 70 A BERKSHIRE VILLAGE : thatcli of an old barn. Hooker^s friend. Sir Francis Knollys, the Lord of Stanford Manor, was buried at Rotherfield Greys, near Henley-on-Thames, in Ox- fordshire, where there is a magnificent monument to him and his wife. Their effigies lie under a canopy supported by pillars of black marble. Seven sons and six daughters, with the Countess of Banbury, their daughter-in-law, are kneeling beneath, while the Countess is repeated, with her husband, William, Earl of Banbury, in the upper part, kneeling before a desk. In the following reign Wadley was again honoured by a royal visit, for King James I. came to Wadley in 1G03, and stayed there two nights. Stanford ^Manor House was then the home of one of the officers of the royal household, for together with the Knollys there lived a relative, IMr. John Higham, who, as we learn from a black marble slab in the chancel, was ^larshal of the Hall to King James and King Charles. Besides the old Manor House at Stanford, there are traces, at what is now called the Park Farm, of a considerable mansion, the history of which is entirely forgotten. There is a spot near it plainly laid out originally as a pleasure ground, called " the Island," surrounded by water, formerly, perhaps, con- structed for a fish-pond. Between the Park Farm and Stanford there are several enclosures laid in grass still known by the name of Meads. There is Whit- field's Mead, the Parson's Mead, Little Gentleman's ITS HISTORY AND AXTIQUITIES. 71 Mead, Great Gentleman^s ^lead, &:e. Not far from these are certain enclosures known as the Wick Closes, and a local tradition speaks of there having- been buildings adjoining-, a fact which seems to be pointed out by the name, trick, as has been said before, meaning a dwelling-place. In some of these the most beautiful wild flowers may be gathered in the early spring, and here also may be found the gayest and the rarest butterflies. These Closes border on our little river Ock, in which large numbers of cray-fish are caught. Little boys may be seen in the summer lifting up the stones in the stream in search of these, and depositing them in their trowser pockets in lieu of a basket ! At the extremity of Stanford parish, which runs up almost to Faringdon Clump, stands Stanford Place, a house erected not many years ago by George Butler, Esq., a direct descendant of Bishop Butler. Tlie pro- perty is now sold, but only a few months back the dining-room at Stanford Place contained a half-length portrait of this famous prelate, the author of the " Analogy of llevealed Beligiou.''^ His birth-place was the town of Wantage. Besides the Manor House already mentioned, por- tions of others of great interest still exist in the neighbourhood. Thus at Chaniey there are the remains of what must have been the residence of an officer of the Monastery at Abingdon ; in it may still be seen 72 A BERKSHIRE VILLAGE : the ancient Oratory, with its oriel window and pis- cina. This is now used as a loft. The house adjoins the church, and has for many j^ears been the principal house in the village. At Lyford we find in a farm- house a part of the old residence of the Ayshcombes, and at Shellingford, in some out-buildings, a large walled garden and some plantations of yew surround- ing a fish-pond, we see the remains of the old Manor House of the Packers, called Shellingford Castle. This house remained for a long time uninhabited, and its chimney-pieces were used as quarries to sup- ply the Stanford boys \\'ith marbles ! Another fine old Manor House is that of Hatford, formerly the residence of the Tyrrells. It contains a beautiful staircase, and some handsome I'ooms. Its sitimtion is veiy picturesque, several fine trees on a small lawTi compose a very pretty foreground. Not far from Hatford House, winding along the edge of a little brook — a favourite resort of the king-fisher, and where forget-me-nots may be gathered in profusion — is a footpath leading to the park at "Wadley. Certain entries in our old Churchwardens^ book relate to the laws against Roman Catholics. Thus we read, " For a hoolce of Articles against Recti- sants." This reminds us of that succession of dark plots formed l^y Roman Catholics against the life of Queen Elizabctli, and the severe measures taken in consequence against theni. The Five Mile Act / , ^ ITS HISTORY AND AXTIQUITIES. 7:i forl)ade them to g-o more than five miles from their dwellings without a licence from two Jus- tices of the Peace or with the assent in writing of the Lord-Lieutenant or Bishop. Four miles from Stanford is Buckland House, the seat of the Throck-^ mortons, who came into the possession of this estate , by marriage with the last female heir of the Yates. Here is preserved a curious relic, viz. a shift of Mary A Queen of Scots. Tlie Throckmortons have been for some generations Roman Catholics, and there is a beautiful cha])el in the Park, designed by Pugin. One of the priests attached to this chapel purchased some years ago of one of the farmers, an ancient ser- vice-book used in Stanford Church before the Refor- mation. Not far from Buckland is Carswell House, the ancient seat of the Southbys. This family espoused the Puritan cause during the time of the troubles in England, and there may yet be seen in the pleasant drawing-room of the mansion certain grim portraits of many who bore their part in the events of those times. During the reign of King James, Stanford was the residence of one of the Royal household, for a slab in the chancel informs us " Mr John Higham was Mar- shal of the Hall to King James and King Charles." This Mr. Higham lived at the IManor House, and was the brother-in-law of Richard Knollys. He must have been the witness to the commencement of that 74 A BERKSHIUE VILLAGE t terrible storm which soon broke upon England. Upon King- Charles I. seems to have fallen the punishment due to the acts of sacrilege perpetrated in former reigns. Insufficient pastoral care gave rise, douljtless, to that party to which the name of Puritan has been given. Some of those to whom this name was applied were doubtless men of irreproachable lives, but often greatly wanting in sound judgment and Christian charity towards others. They scrupled at clergymen wearing the surplice, and thought it wrong to kneel at the Holy Communion. But the clamour which thev raised against the Church onlv served to aid the cause of Rome, for the Church of England in her doctrine and sober ritual, and especially in the ample provision which she makes for the reading of Holy Scripture, is the strongest l)ai'rier against Popeiy. The spread of licentiousness so much de- plored by all good men was really owing to the need of better provision for the clergy. Their state was a most impoverished one, and in consequence many held several benefices, and others were so ignoi'ant as to be unfit to teach. This is set forth in a speech made by Sir Benjamin lludyer in Parliament at the beginning of this reign. "I have observed,^^ he said, "that we nre always very eager and fierce against papistry, against scandalous ministers, and against things which are not within our power. T do not speak this, that T do mislike llie destroying and pulling down that ITS iriSTOKY AND ANTIQUITIES, 17) which is ill; but then let us be as earnest to plant and build up that which is good in the room of it, for why should we be desolate ? The best and nearest way to dispel darkness, and the deeds thereof, is to let in lig"ht. We say that day breaks, but no man ever heard the voice of it, God comes in the still voice ; let us quickly mend our candlesticks, and we cannot want lig-ht. I am afraid this backwardness of ours will g-ive our adversaries occasion to say that we choose our religion because it is cheaper of the two ; that we would willingly serve God with somewhat that should cost us nought. Believe me, Mr. Pym,"^ he said, addressing the Speaker, " he that thinks to save any thing by his religion but his soul, will be a terrible loser in the end. We sow sparingly ; that is the reason we reap so sparingly and have no more fruit, Methinks, whosoever hates papistry should 1)\ the same rule hate covetousness, for that is idolatry too. I never like hot professions and cold actions. Such a heat is rather the heat of distemper and disease than of life and saving health. As for scandalous ministers, let them be punished, but let us deal with them as God has dealt with us, God, before He made man, He made the world, a handsome place for him to dwell in. So let us provide competent livings, and then punish in God^s name; but till then, scandalous livings can but have scandalous ministers.'^ He ends by asking, "Why should we E 2 7n A BERKSHIRE VILLAGE : dwell in houses of cedar, and sutfer God to dwell in skins 'P^^ Some comj)laints were made by the Puritans without much show of reason. Thus William Prynne published a book in which he not only con- demned without reserve masques and dancing-, but also hunting-, public festivals, keeping Christmas, bonfires, and May -poles. Upon church music he was most severe, for he calls it " a bleating of brute beasts." " Choristers," he writes, " bellow their tenor as if they were oxen, bark a counterpoint like a kennel of dog-s, roar a treble as if they were bulls, and grunt out a bass like a parcel of hogs'." As regards this* indiscriminate condemnation of amusement, it might have been considered that men have need of some recreation. A wiser man than William Prynne, viz. Bishop Latimer, wrote : " INIen of England in times past, when they would exercise themselves (for we must needs have some recreation, o\ir bodyes cannot endure without some exercise), they were wont to g-oe abroad in the fields of shooting-. It is a goodly arte," he adds, " a wholesome kinde of exercise, and much commended in physicke'." But an entry in our old church book points to that event which was the immediate cause of the troubles ' Collier's Eccl. Hist., vol. viii. 9 Il)i