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CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 THREE VOYAGES ROUND 
 THE WORLD 
 
 WITH A SKETCH OF HIS LIFE 
 
 EDITED BY , / yw*^ 
 
 0-' 
 
 .tt^ 
 
 LIEUTENANT CHARLES R. LOW, "^.^'l- '' 
 
 {Late) H,M, Indian Navy, Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society, and 
 Mtmber of the Royal United Service Institution 
 
 LONDON AND NEW YORK 
 GEORGE ROUTLEDGE AND SONS 
 1876. ^ 
 

 CHARLES DICKENS AND EVANS,, 
 CRYSTAL PALACE PRESS. 
 
 # 
 
Bancxoft libtaiy 
 
 ^ 
 
 CAPTAIN COOK'S 
 
 THREE VOYAGES ROUND THE 
 WORLD. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Among the most remarkable voyages of discovery of which 
 we have record, those made by the celebrated Captain Cook 
 hold in popular estimation, and deservedly so, the first place. 
 This is due as much to the magnitude and importance of his 
 discoveries as to the interest of the incidents he details ; the 
 graphic and accurate, yet simple, descriptions of the people 
 and places he visited ; and the sad fate that ultimately over- 
 took him, which has cast around his name a halo of romantic 
 interest as one of the martyrs of scientific exploration. 
 
 James Cook was born in November, 1728, at Marton, in 
 Cleveland, near Great Ay ton, in Yorkshire. He was of 
 humble parentage, and, when only two years of age, his 
 father, who was a day labourer to a farmer, removed to 
 Great Ayton, where he was employed in the same capacity 
 by Mr. Thomas Scottowe. 
 
 At first young Cook assisted his father in the different 
 branches of husbandry, but, at thirteen, was placed under the 
 
4 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 care of Mr. Pullen, the village schoolmaster at Ayton, where 
 he learned arithmetic and book-keeping, and is said to have 
 displayed a remarkable aptitude for figures. 
 
 About January, 1745, when James Cook was seventeen 
 years of age, his father bound him apprentice to learn the 
 grocery and haberdashery business, at Snaith, about ten miles 
 from Whitby ; but after a year and a half's servitude, having 
 contracted a strong predilection for the sea, his master was 
 willing to indulge him in following the bent of his inclination, 
 and agreed to cancel the indentures. Accordingly, in July, 
 1746, the future circumnavigator was bound apprentice to 
 Mr. J. Walker, of Whitby, for the term of three years, which 
 he served to the full satisfaction of his employer. He first 
 sailed on board the Freelove, chiefly employed in the coal 
 trade between Newcastle and London; and, in May, 1748, 
 was employed in assisting to rig and fit out for sea the Three 
 Brothers, a ship of 300 tons, thus acquiring that intimate 
 knowledge of the rigger's art which forms so important an 
 element in the education of a sailor. After performing two 
 coaling voyages in this ship, she was chartered by the 
 Government as a transport, and conveyed troops to Dublin, 
 thence embarking other soldiers to Liverpool. Cook con- 
 tinued to serve in her, in the Norway trade, until the 
 expiration of his apprenticeship, and, in the spring of 1750 
 we find him shipping as a seaman on board the Maria, under 
 the command of Captain Gaskin ; in her he performed some 
 voyages in the Baltic trade. In 1752, Mr. Walker, of Whitby, 
 was glad to avail himself of his services as mate of one of his 
 ships, called the Friendship, and he gave so much satisfac- 
 tion to the owner that, it is said, he was offered the post of 
 master of the vessel, which, however, he declined. Hence- 
 forth his services were devoted to his country. 
 
 In the spring of 1755, hostilities broke out between this 
 country and France, and strenuous efforts were made to 
 man the ships of war. As press-warrants had been issued, 
 Mr. Cook, whose ship then lay in the Thames, afraid of being 
 pressed, at first resolved to conceal himself ; but afterwards, 
 reflecting on the difliculties of doing so, he adopted the reso- 
 
INTRODUCTION. 5 
 
 lution of entering the navy as a volunteer, " having a mind," 
 as he expressed himself, "to try his fortune that way." In 
 pursuance of this design he repaired to a house of rendezvous 
 in Wapping, and entered on board the Eagle, of 60 guns, at 
 that time commanded by Captain Hamer ; on the appoint- 
 ment, in the following October, of Captain (afterwards Sir 
 Hugh) Palliser to the command of this ship, Cook's diligence 
 and attention to the duties of his profession, although in the 
 humble capacity of a foremast hand, attracted the notice of 
 that discerning and intelligent commander, and he afforded 
 him every encouragement. Cook's meritorious conduct also 
 came to the ears of his friends in his native county, and 
 representations were made to his captain by the Member for 
 Scarborough, which resulted in his being recommended for a 
 master's warrant on board one of His Majesty's ships. After 
 some delay he was appointed master of the Mercury, and 
 proceeded in her to North America, and was of signal service 
 during the reduction of Quebec by the combined military 
 and naval expedition under General Wolfe and Admiral Sir 
 Charles Saunders ; as is well known, the chief credit of that 
 famous exploit fell to the lot of the sister service, which covered 
 itself with glory, though at the sad cost of the loss of Wolfe, 
 whose death dimmed the lustre of even so great a victory. 
 
 At the siege of Quebec, Sir Charles Saunders committed 
 to his charge the execution of services of the first importance 
 in the naval department. He piloted the boats to the attack 
 of Montmorency, conducted the embarkation to the Heights 
 of Abraham, and examined the passage, and laid buoys for 
 the security of the large ships in proceeding up the river. 
 He was employed for several nights taking soundings opposite 
 the French camp at Montmorency, until at length he was 
 discovered by the enemy, who sent a number of canoes, filled 
 with Indians, to surround him ; and he narrowly escaped 
 capture by pulling for the Isle of Orleans, the Indians seizing 
 the stern of his boat as he sprang ashore. The courage and 
 address with which he acquitted himself in these services, 
 and the admirable completeness of the plan of the channel ' 
 and its soundings, which he furnished to the admiral, gained 
 
6 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 him the warm friendship of Sir Charles Saunders and his 
 successor, Lord Colville, who continued his zealous patrons 
 during the remainder of their lives. 
 
 After the conquest of Canada, Mr. Cook was appointed, 
 on the 2nd of September, 1759, master of the Northumber- 
 land^ bearing the broad pennant of Lord Colville, which lay, 
 during the ensuing winter, at Halifax. But Cook, whose 
 chief anxiety was to rise in his profession, resolved to qualify 
 himself for promotion, and counteract the deficiencies of his 
 early education by application to those sciences and branches 
 of knowledge which are essential to success. Inspired by 
 this noble ambition, instead of devoting his spare time to 
 amusements, he was engaged in improving his mind. During 
 the hard winter of 1759 he first read Euclid, and applied him- 
 self to the study of mathematics and astronomy, without any 
 other assistance than was afforded him by a few books and his 
 own industry. 
 
 Mr. Cook's commission as lieutenant was dated the ist 
 of April, 1760. In September, 1762, we find him assisting 
 at the recapture of Newfoundland ; and subsequently, 
 while the British fleet lay at Placentia, he was engaged 
 surveying the heights and harbour in order that it might 
 be put into a state of defence, a task which he per- 
 formed with such marked ability, as to attract the favourable 
 notice of the Governor of Newfoundland, Captain (after- 
 wards Admiral) Graves. Towards the close of the year, 
 Lieutenant Cook returned to England, and, on the 21st of 
 December, was married at Barking to Miss Batts, whose god- 
 father he was said to have been, although, it should be added, 
 there was only a difference of fourteen years in their ages. 
 For this lady, by whom he had six children, he entertained a 
 tender affection through life ; but, like all great seamen, he 
 placed the requirements of the public service before his per- 
 sonal predilections, and was ever ready at the call of duty to 
 resign the solace of her society for years. In 1763 Lieut. 
 Cook accompanied Captain Graves when he went out for the 
 second time as Governor of Newfoundland, and he carried 
 out a survey of its coasts, as well as of the islands of 
 
INTRODUCTION. 7 
 
 Miquelon and St. Pierre, which had been ceded to this 
 country by France in the treaty of peace. He again re- 
 turned to England, but, early in the following year, accom- 
 panied his former captain. Sir Hugh Palliser, who had been 
 appointed Governor of Newfoundland and Labrador, and 
 continued the prosecution of his surveys of those coasts and 
 of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. His charts were considered 
 admirable and most trustworthy, while he did not confine 
 his labours to marine surveying alone, but explored the 
 interior of Newfoundland. In 1765 he was with Sir William 
 Burnaby on the Jamaica station ; he was employed by the 
 Admiral in carrying despatches to the Governor of Yucatan, 
 relative to the wood-cutters in the Bay of Honduras, and 
 a record of this mission, which he performed in an emi- 
 nently satisfactory manner, was published in 1769. Return- 
 ing to Newfoundland, he observed an eclipse of the sun 
 on August 5th, 1766, an account of which appears in the 
 seventh volume of the Philosophical Transactions of the 
 Royal Society. 
 
 Lieutenant Cook returned to England in 1767, when much 
 interest was felt by the astronomical and scientific world 
 at the approaching transit of Venus over the sun's disc in 
 1769. Acting on the advice of Captain Wallis, who had just 
 returned from his voyage round the world, it was decided 
 that Otaheite, in the Society Islands, would be the most 
 convenient spot for carrying out the observations ; and, 
 after some delay, Lieutenant Cook was selected to command 
 the expedition, which was fitted out under the auspices of 
 the Royal Society and the patronage of his Majesty King 
 George the Third and the Board of Admiralty, whose 
 instructions to him embraced the prosecution of discoveries 
 in those seas, which had been already partially explored 
 by our countrymen. Captains Wallis, Carteret, and Byron. 
 These officers, by their discoveries, had greatly contributed 
 towards increasing our knowledge of the islands in Polynesia ; 
 but how far the Pacific Ocean extended to the west, by what 
 lands it was bounded on that side, and the connection of 
 those lands with former discoveries, remained unknown until 
 
8 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 Cook, on his return from his first voyage, brought back a 
 solution of these points. 
 
 After Lieutenant Cook's return from his first voyage, he 
 was promoted to Commander on the 19th of August, 1771 ; 
 and on the 9th of August, 1775, ten days after his arrival in 
 England from his second voyage, he was raised to the rank 
 of Post-Captain in the Royal Navy. 
 
 For the species of enterprise on which he was engaged 
 during these years, Captain Cook appears to have been 
 eminently qualified. The earliest habits of his life, the 
 course of his service, and the constant application of his 
 mind, all conspired to fit him for it, and gave him a degree 
 of professional knowledge which few officers had then or 
 have since attained. 
 
 His frame and constitution were robust, inured to labour 
 and capable of undergoing the severest hardships. When 
 necessity required it, he could submit, uncomplainingly, to 
 the coarsest and most unpalatable food ; and, indeed, tem- 
 perance in him was scarcely a virtue, so great was the 
 indifference with which he submitted to every kind of self- 
 denial. The qualities of his mind were of the same hardy, 
 vigorous kind as those of his body. His understanding 
 was strong and perspicuous ; his judgment, especially in pro- 
 fessional matters, quick and sure. His designs were bold, 
 and, both in the conception and in the mode of execution, 
 bore evident marks of original genius. His courage was cool 
 and determined, and accompanied with an admirable presence 
 of mind in the moment of danger. His manners were plain 
 and unaffected ; his temper, it was said, was open to blame 
 on the score of hastiness and passion, but on the other hand 
 he was generous, benevolent, and humane. 
 
 Such was the outline of Captain Cook's character ; but its 
 most distinguishing feature was that unremitting perseverance 
 in the pursuit of his object, which was superior to the oppo- 
 sition of dangers, difficulties, and hardships. During the 
 long and tedious voyages in which he was engaged, his 
 eagerness and activity were never in the least abated. No 
 incidental temptations could detain him for a moment ; even 
 
INTRODUCTION. 9 
 
 those intervals of recreation which sometimes unavoidably 
 occurred, were submitted to by him with a certain impatience 
 whenever they could not be employed in making further 
 provision for the more effectual prosecution of his designs. 
 It is not necessary here to enumerate the instances in which 
 these qualities were displayed, as his whole life bore witness 
 that he was the possessor of them ; but we will briefly state 
 the results of the great and important enterprises in which 
 he was engaged. 
 
 Perhaps no man ever made greater additions to our know- 
 ledge of the twin sciences of geography and navigation than 
 Captain Cook. In his first voyage to the South Seas he 
 discovered the Society Islands ; determined the insularity of 
 New Zealand ; discovered the straits called after his name, 
 which separate the two islands, and made a complete survey 
 of both. 
 
 With wonderful skill and perseverance, amidst perplexities, 
 difficulties, and dangers, he explored the eastern coast of 
 Australia, hitherto unknown, for an extent of twenty-seven 
 degrees of latitude, or upwards of 2,000 miles. 
 
 In his second expedition he traversed the southern hemi- 
 sphere, between the fortieth and sixty-se\^nth degrees of 
 latitude, having sailed nearer to the South Pole than any 
 previous navigator ; and it was not until 1823, just fifty years 
 later, that Weddell penetrated 214 miles further south, though 
 it was reserved for the late Sir James Clark Ross, in his 
 memorable voyage in 1841, in Her Majesty's ships Erebus 
 and Terror — the same that carried Franklin and his 
 associates on their last voyage — to prove the existence of an 
 antarctic continent, 450 miles in length, in 78° 4'. 
 
 During this voyage Captain Cook discovered New Cale- 
 donia, one of the largest islands in the South Pacific, the 
 island of Georgia, and other islands, besides settling the 
 situations of the old and making several new discoveries. 
 
 But the third and last voyage was distinguished above 
 the others by the extent and importance of its results. 
 Although he had richly earned repose by reason of his great 
 services in the two former voyages, Cook voluntarily quitted 
 
lo COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 the comfortable quarters he had been allotted in Greenwich 
 Hospital by the bounty of the King, and once more embarked 
 on the dangers inseparable from the navigation of unknown 
 seas, the dealing with savage races, and the search for the 
 mysterious " north-west passage,"^ which had baffled so many 
 of our most experienced navigators, and which, seventy years 
 later, was destined to engulf the great Franklin and upwards 
 of loo gallant officers and seamen at the moment when the 
 secret was yielded up to their energetic research. 
 
 Besides several smaller islands in the South Pacific, he 
 discovered, to the north of the equinoctial line, the group 
 called the Sandwich Islands, which, from their situation and 
 productions, have attained a position of importance not yet 
 assumed by other groups in Polynesia. He afterwards 
 explored what had hitherto remained unknown of the western 
 coast of America, from the latitude of 43° to 70° 44' north, 
 containing an extent of 3,500 miles, ascertained the proximity 
 of the two great continents of Asia and America, passed the 
 straits between them, and surveyed a considerable extent of 
 coast on each side ; and it was not until 1826 that Captain 
 Beechey passed Cook's farthest, and again, many years later, 
 Sir Robert McClure and Sir Richard Collinson. 
 
 But Cook was destined never to return to England, and, 
 on the 14th of February, 1779, on the shores of an island he 
 had given to the civilised world, this great mariner perished 
 by the daggers of a horde of savages whom it had been 
 his utmost endeavour to conciliate by kind and friendly 
 treatment. 
 
 Those who are conversant with naval history need not be 
 told at how dear a rate the scientific advantages which are 
 sought to be attained through the medium of long voyages 
 at sea have always been purchased. Scurvy, that dreadful 
 
 * Strictly speaking, Cook was engaged in discovering the "north-east" 
 passage, from which point he attacked the great problem of Arctic navigation. 
 On this side Captain Beechey reached as far as 71° 25 ', by which means a space 
 of about 150 miles only remained unexplored between Point Barrow, the N.E. 
 point reached by Captain Beechey, and Point Beechey, the N.W. limit of Sir 
 John Franklin's land expeditions from the mouth of McKenzie's River. This 
 interval was surmounted by the late Sir Robert McClure. 
 
INTRODUCTION. ii 
 
 disorder which is peculiar to this service, and whose ravages 
 have marked the tracks of discoverers, as witness the records 
 of the voyages of Lord Anson and other navigators, must 
 have proved an insuperable obstacle to the prosecution of 
 such enterprises, unless the preservation of the lives of our 
 seamen were deemed a matter of no moment. It was 
 reserved for Captain Cook to show the world, by repeated 
 trials, that voyages might be protracted to the unusual length 
 of three or even four years, in unknown regions, and under 
 every change and rigour of climate, not only without affecting 
 the health, but even without diminishing the probability of 
 life in the smallest degree. The method he pursued was 
 fully explained by himself in a paper which was read before 
 the Royal Society, in the year 1776, a few months after he 
 quitted England on his last voyage, on which occasion Sir 
 Godfrey Copley's gold medal was awarded him ; and he also 
 noted in his journal, up to the time of his death, whatever 
 improvements were suggested by experience. 
 
 With respect to his professional abilities. Captain King, 
 his able lieutenant, well observes, " I shall leave them to the 
 judgment of those who are best acquainted with the nature 
 of the services in which he was engaged. They will readily 
 acknowledge that to have conducted three expeditions of so 
 much danger and difficulty, of so unusual a length, and in 
 such a variety of situation, with uniform and invariable 
 success, must have required not only a thorough and accurate 
 knowledge of his business, but a powerful and comprehensive 
 genius, fruitful in resources, and equally ready in the applica- 
 tion of whatever the higher and inferior calls of the service 
 required." 
 
 Owing to the great care taken by Captain Cook of his men, 
 and the sanitary precautions he adopted, his voyages were 
 distinguished among those of the century for the small loss 
 incurred in their prosecution. But the last was destined to 
 be fatal to many of the officers who sailed in the two ships, 
 the Resolution and Discovery. In addition to Captain Cook, 
 killed on the 14th of February, 1779, Captain Clerke, who 
 succeeded to the chief command, succumbed, at the age of 
 
12 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 thirty-eight, to consumption, from which he had suffered before 
 he left England, on the 22nd of August in the same year ; 
 and Captain King, the accomplished historian of the voyage 
 after the death of Cook, died, at Nice, in the autumn of 1784, 
 of disease caused by the hardships and vicissitudes of climate 
 to which he had been exposed. King George the Third was 
 not forgetful of the services of his great subject, whose dis- 
 coveries shed no less glory on his reign than the victories by 
 sea and land, which we Englishmen regard with so much 
 pride and satisfaction. He settled a pension of £2^ per 
 annum on each of the three surviving sons of the great 
 circumnavigator, and a pension of ;£2oo a year on the 
 widow. 
 
 This lady had soon cause to deplore the loss, in their 
 country's service, of others only less dear to her than her 
 gallant and lamented husband. In October, 1780, the month 
 when, by the return of the Resohitioit and Discovery^ Mrs. 
 Cook was first made aware of the irreparable loss she had 
 sustained, her second son, Nathaniel, sixteen years of age, was 
 lost on board the TJuinderer man-of-war, which foundered in 
 a gale of wind. The youngest son, Hugh, a student of 
 Christ's College, Cambridge, died of fever at the early age of 
 seventeen, on the 21st of December, 1793 ; and, on the 25th of 
 January in the following year, the eldest son, aged thirty-one, 
 who bore his father's name, and commanded the Spitfire sloop- 
 of-war, was driven to sea while attempting to board his ship 
 off Poole in a heavy gale, and perished, together with the 
 boat's crew. His body was afterwards recovered, and con- 
 veyed to Spithead on board his own ship, whence it was 
 x'emoved to Cambridge, and buried by the side of his 
 youngest brother, whose funeral he had attended only six 
 weeks before. Mrs. Cook was herself brought to the brink 
 of the grave by these accumulated bereavements, but she 
 recovered her health, and lived to the extraordinary age of 
 ninety-three, having survived her husband fifty-six years. 
 She died on the 13th of May, 1835, at her residence at 
 Clapham, to the poor of which she left a charitable bequest, 
 and was buried in the middle aisle of St. Andrew's the Great, 
 
INTRODUCTION. 13 
 
 Cambridge, by the side of her two sons. Within the com- 
 munion rail of that church is a tablet, having an appropriate 
 design descriptive of naval discovery sculptured at the top, 
 and below, a shield, the device of a globe and a star, with 
 the motto, 
 
 ** Nil intentatum reliquit." 
 
 On the tablet is the following inscription to the memory of 
 Captain Cook : — 
 
 IN MEMORY OF 
 
 CAPTAIN JAMES COOK, 
 
 Of the Royal Navy, 
 
 One of the most Celebrated Navigators that this or former ag6s can boast of ; 
 
 Who was killed by the natives of ONvyhee in the Pacific Ocean, 
 
 On the 14th day of February, 1779, in the fifty-first year of his age. 
 
 In continuation of the above, is an inscription to his widow 
 and their sons, with the names and ages of three children 
 who died in infancy ; and, on the slab in the middle aisle, 
 beneath which lie Mrs. Cook and her sons, is a brief record 
 of their names and ages at the date of decease. 
 
 But though it is a meet and proper thing that this country, 
 even by a cenotaph, should record its sense of the services 
 and devotion to duty of one of the noblest of its sons,, yet 
 more interest attaches to the memorials that have been raised 
 to our great countryman on the scene of his labours and of 
 his death. Until within the past year, however, no suitable 
 monument to the memory of Captain Cook had been raised 
 in the Sandwich Island, though this remissness did not 
 extend to the officers of the Royal Navy, who have ever 
 been proud of numbering the name of James Cook among 
 the most distinguished in the long roll of naval worthies. 
 About 100 yards from the beach, where he was so cruelly 
 murdered, stands a portion of the trunk of a cocoa-nut tree, 
 set in a bed of loose stones and broken lava, and bearing 
 four plates of copper, upon which appear the following 
 
14 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 inscriptions, rudely stamped, apparently with a punch. On 
 the largest of these, the following is the only portion that is 
 now decipherable : — 
 
 " This bay was visited by Her Majesty's ship Carrysford, Right Honourable 
 Lord George Paulet." 
 
 A second plate bears the following inscription : — 
 
 "This tree having falleH, was replaced on this spot by Her Majesty's steam- 
 vessel Cormorant, G. T. Gordon, Esq., Captain, which visited this spot May i8, 
 1846." 
 
 The third plate has the following inscription : — 
 
 " This sheet and capping were put on by the Sj>arro7v Hawk, September i6, 
 1839, in order to preserve this monument to the memory of Cook. Give this a 
 coat of tar." 
 
 On the fourth plate the following may be deciphered : — 
 
 " Near this spot fell Captain James Cook, R.N., the renowned navigator, 
 who discovered this island a.d. 1778. His Majesty's ship hnoger^, October 
 17th, 1837." 
 
 Yet another rude memorial, supposed to be by the officers 
 of the Blo7tde, attests the estimation in which the name of 
 Cook is held by the Navy. About a mile from the bay, and 
 at an elevation of some 500 feet above the level of the sea, is 
 a post, about 10 feet in height, set in rude blocks of lava, 
 enclosed within a wall of the same material, and bearing the 
 following inscription upon a plate of copper : — 
 
 IN THE MEMORY OF 
 
 CAPTAIN JAMES COOK, R.N., 
 
 Who discovered this island a.d. 1778, 
 
 This humble monument is erected by his fellow-countrymen, a.d. 1S25. 
 
 These memorials to Cook displayed a just appreciation on 
 the part of our naval officers, but the means at their disposal 
 were limited; and it was not until 1874 that a suitable 
 monument was erected to his memory. The " Honolulu 
 Gazette," of the 25th of November of that year, records the 
 
I NT ROD UCTION. 1 5 
 
 circumstances under which this was effected. The chief 
 credit is due to Mr. Wodehouse, the British Commissioner, 
 who obtained the co-operation of the Hawaiian Government, 
 and Captain Cator, of Her Majesty's ship Scoiit, who con- 
 veyed the architect and men and materials to the spot in 
 Karakakooa Bay where Captain Cook fell. 
 
 The monument is a plain obelisk, standing on a square 
 base, the whole being 27 feet in height, and constructed 
 throughout of a concrete composed of carefully screened 
 pebbles and cement. 
 
 It stands on a level platform of lava, only a few feet 
 distant from and above high-water mark, and fifteen or 
 twenty yards from the stone or lava slab on which the great 
 seaman stood when struck down. The site is the gift of the 
 native Princess Likelike, and the expense of the erection is 
 partly borne by subscribers in England, among whom are 
 Admiral Richards, late Hydrographer at the Admiralty, 
 several officers who served under him when he commanded 
 H.M.S. Hecate, on this station, and Lady Franklin, who it 
 was natural should feel a peculiar interest in one who, like 
 her great husband, at the call of duty, left a competence, a 
 loving wife, and admiring friends, to perish in the prosecution 
 of nautical exploration. 
 
 On the seaward base of the obeHsk is deeply cut the 
 following inscription : — 
 
 IN MEMORY OF THE GREAT CIRCUMNAVIGATOR 
 CAPTAIN JAMES COOK, R.N., 
 
 Who discovered these islands on the i8th of January, 1778, and fell near 
 
 this spot on the 14th of February, 1779. 
 
 This monument was erected in November, a.d. 1874, 
 
 By some of his fellow-countrymen. 
 
 The unveiling of the monument, which will be surrounded 
 by a fence or railing, took place on the 14th of November, 
 1874, in presence of Mr. Wodehouse, Mr. Lischman, the 
 architect, Captain Cator and the officers of the Scout, and 
 many foreign and native visitors and residents. 
 
i6 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 But no monument is needed to the fame of the discoverer 
 of the Sandwich group, of New Caledonia, of Georgia, and 
 other inferior islands ; the explorer of the unknown coasts of 
 New Zealand, of Australia, and of the West Coast of America 
 as far as Icy Cape. Among the names most cherished by 
 his countrymen, is that of the greatest navigator of all time, 
 Captain James Cook, whose unassuming, genuine character 
 obtained for him the honourable title of " Orbis investigator 
 acerrimus." 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN COOK. 
 
 During the past year the governments and scientific men 
 of all civilised nations were vying with each other as to 
 which should contribute most to the observation of one of the 
 rarest and most interesting of astronomical phenomena. 
 Numberless expeditions were organised Under the auspices, 
 and at the expense of, governments, learned societies, and 
 munificent private individuals, and were despatched to some 
 of the most remote and inaccessible spots and islands on the 
 face of the globe, for the purpose of observing the transit of 
 Venus over the sun's disc. 
 
 Much more humble were the efforts made a century ago 
 to observe the same phenomenon, though it was the further- 
 ing of this scientific end that brought before the world the 
 name of that great man, whose memory his countrymen >will 
 not willingly permit to die ; and, indeed, of few, if any, of our 
 worthies, have so many biographical sketches been written, 
 while the narrative of his voyages has been edited by 
 numerous hands, and never so well as when the original text 
 of Captains Cook and King has been most closely adhered 
 to. This course we have adopted, abbreviating freely, and, 
 where necessary, throwing into modern language the some- 
 wfiat antiquated phraseology of the early editions. 
 
 Calculations having been made that tlie planet Venus would 
 
13 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 pass over the sun's disc in 1769, the Royal Society, undet 
 the patronage of King George the Third, presented a 
 memorial to Government, requesting that a vessel might be 
 fitted out to convey proper persons to observe the transit, 
 either in the Marquesas or Friendly Islands, though, on the 
 recommendation of Captain WaUis, who at this time returned 
 from his voyage round the world, it was ultimately decided 
 that the observers should proceed instead to Otaheite, in the 
 Society Islands. Accordingly, Sir Hugh PaUiser, a captain 
 in the Royal Navy, under whom Cook had served on board 
 the Eagle J of 60 guns, was commissioned to provide a proper 
 vessel ; and after examining a great number, fixed on the 
 Endeavour^ a vessel of 370 tons, which had been built for 
 the coal trade. Mr. Stephens, Secretary to the Admiralty, 
 having recommended Mr. Cook, and this recommendation 
 being strengthened by the testimony of Sir Hugh Palliser, 
 he was appointed to the distinguished post of Commander of 
 the expedition by the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, 
 and promoted to the rank of Lieutenant in the Royal Navy, 
 on the 25th of May, 1768, being then nearly 40 years of age. 
 Mr. Charles Green, the coadjutor of Mr. Bradley, the Astro- 
 nomer Royal, was nominated to assist him in the astronomical 
 part of the undertaking ; he was also accompanied by Mr. 
 (afterwards Sir Joseph) Banks, President of the Royal 
 Society, who took with him two draughtsmen, and had like- 
 wise a secretary and four servants. Dr. Solander, an in- 
 genious and learned Swede, who held a place in the British 
 Museum, and was an adept in natural history and philosophy, 
 also joined the expedition. The complement of the En- 
 deavour consisted of eighty-four persons. She was victualled 
 for eighteen months, and ten carriage and twelve swivel 
 guns, with abundance of ammunition, and all manner of 
 stores, were taken on board. Her principal officers were : — 
 Lieutenants Hicks and Gore; Mr. Molineux, master, who 
 died the 15th of April, 1771, and was succeeded by Mr. 
 Pickersgill; Mr. Charles Gierke, mate; Mr. Monkhouse, 
 surgeon, who died the 5th of November, 1770, and was 
 succeeded by Mr. Perry. 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 19 
 
 Captain Cook sailed from Deptford on the 30th of July, 
 1768, and on the i8th of August anchored in Plymouth 
 Sound, from which, in a few days, he proceeded to sea. 
 On the 2nd of September they made the first land after 
 leaving the Channel, and on the 13th arrived at Madeira, 
 where they unfortunately lost Mr. Weir, the master's mate, 
 who fell overboard and was drowned. They left Madeira on 
 the 19th of September, and on the 23rd sighted the Peak of 
 Teneriffe, which, from its great elevation, is visible a vast 
 distance at sea. On the 29th, Bona Vista, one of the Cape 
 de Verd islands, was passed, and on October the 25th they 
 crossed the line with the usual ceremonies. Provisions falling 
 short, it was determined to put into Rio Janeiro"^, where they 
 arrived on the 13th of November, and having procured the 
 necessary supplies, weighed anchor on the 8th of December. 
 On the 22nd they were surrounded by a great number of 
 porpoises, of a singular species, about 1 5 feet in length, and of 
 an ash colour. On the following day they observed an eclipse of 
 the moon ; and at seven o'clock in the morning a small white 
 cloud appeared in the west, from which a train of fire issued, 
 followed by a distinct explosion, when the cloud disappeared. 
 The year 1768 closed without any noteworthy incident. 
 
 On the 4th of January, 1769, they saw an appearance of 
 land, which they mistook for Pepys' Island, and bore away 
 for it ; but it proved one of those deceptions which sailors 
 call a "fog bank.'' On the 14th they entered the straits of 
 Le Maire, but were driven out again with great violence, the 
 tide being against them. At length they got anchorage at 
 the entrance of a little cove, which Captain Cook called St. 
 Vincent's Bay. Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks went on shore, 
 and returned about nine in the evening with upwards of a 
 hundred different plants and flowers, hitherto unnoticed by 
 European botanists. 
 
 On Sunday, the 1 5th, they came to an anchor off this part 
 of Terra del Fuego, in twelve fathoms of water, upon coral 
 rocks, before a small cove, at the distance of about a mile 
 from the shore. Two of the natives came down upon the 
 
 * So called after St. Januarius, the saint's day on which it was discovered. 
 
20 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 beach, as if they expected the strangers would land ; but as 
 there was no shelter the ship got under weigh again and the 
 natives retired. The same afternoon they came to an anchor 
 in the Bay of Good Success. The captain went on shore, 
 accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, to search for a 
 watering-place and confer with the natives. These gentlemen 
 proceeded above loo yards in advance of Captain Cook, when 
 two of the natives who had seated themselves, rose up, and, 
 as a token of amity, threw away a small stick or boomerang 
 which they had in their hands. They afterwards returned to 
 their companions, who had remained some distance behind, 
 and made signs to their guests to advance. They received 
 the Englishmen in a friendly manner, and in return for their 
 civility, some buttons and beads were distributed among 
 them. Thus confidence was established, and the rest of the 
 English party joined and conversed with them in an amicable 
 manner. Captain Cook and his friends took three of the 
 natives to the ship, clothed them, and gave them provisions, 
 part of which they carried on shore. They, however, refused 
 to drink rum or brandy, after tasting it, intimating, by signs, 
 that it burned their throats. None of these people exceeded 
 5 feet lo inches in height, but their bodies appeared large 
 and robust, though their limbs were small. They had broad 
 flat faces, high cheeks, noses inclining to flatness, wide 
 nostrils, small black eyes, large mouths, small but indifferent 
 teeth, and straight black hair falling down over their ears 
 and foreheads, the latter being most generally smeared with 
 brown and red paints ; and, like all the original inhabitants 
 of America, they were beardless. Their garments were the 
 skins of seals and guanicos, which they wrapped round their 
 shoulders. The men likewise wore on their heads a bunch of 
 yarn, which fell over their foreheads, and was tied behind 
 with the sinews or tendons of some animal. Many of both 
 sexes were painted in different parts of their bodies with red, 
 brown, and white colours, and had also three or four perpen- 
 dicular lines pricked across their cheeks and noses. The 
 women had a small string tied round each ankle, and each 
 wore a flap of skin fastened round the middle. They carried 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. * 21 
 
 their children upon their backs^ and were generally employed 
 in domestic labour and drudgery. 
 
 Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Mr. Buchan, and attendants, set 
 out with a design of going into the country and returning 
 the same evening. The morning had been very fine, but the 
 weather afterwards became cold and disagreeable, the blasts 
 of wind were piercing, and the snow fell very thick ; never- 
 theless, they pursued their route, in the hope of finding a 
 better road, as that which they had crossed was swampy. 
 An accident now happened that greatly disconcerted them 
 all. Mr. Buchan was attacked with a fit. Such as were 
 fatigued remained to assist him ; but Mr. Banks, Dr. 
 Solander, and Mr. Monkhouse proceeded on further, and found 
 a great variety of plants that amply repaid their toil. When 
 they returned to the company amidst the snow, which now 
 fell in great abundance, they found that Mr. Buchan was 
 much recovered. It was now about eight in the evening, and 
 Dr. Solander, knowing from experience that extreme cold, 
 when joined with fatigue, occasions a drowsiness that is not 
 easily resisted, entreated his friends to keep in motion, how- 
 ever disagreeable it might be to them. His words were, 
 *' Whoever sits down will sleep, and whoever sleeps will 
 awake no more." Accordingly, every one now seemed armed 
 with resolution ; but, on a sudden, the cold became so very 
 intense as to threaten the most dreadful effects. It was 
 remarkable that the doctor himself, who had so forcibly 
 admonished his party, was the first person who insisted on 
 repose. In spite of their earnest entreaties, he lay down 
 amidst the snow, and it was with the greatest difficulty they 
 kept him awake. One of the black servants became also 
 weary and faint, and was on the point of following his 
 ■example. Mr. Buchan was therefore detached with a party 
 to make a fire at the first commodious spot they could find ; 
 Mr. Banks and four more remained with the doctor and 
 Richmond, the black servant, who with the utmost difficulty 
 were persuaded to proceed ; but when they had traversed 
 the greater part of the swamp, they expressed their inability 
 to go any ftirther. When Richmond was told that if he 
 
22 ^ COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 remained there he would soon be frozen to death, his reply- 
 was that he was so exhausted with fatigue, that death would 
 be a relief to him. Dr. Solander said he was not unwilhng 
 to go, but that he must first take some sleep, acting contrary 
 to the opinion which he himself had- so lately delivered. 
 Thus resolved, they both sat down, supported by some 
 bushes, and in a short time fell fast asleep. Intelligence 
 now came from the advanced party that a fire was kindled 
 about a quarter of a mile in advance. Mr. Banks then 
 awakened the doctor, who had almost lost the use of his 
 limbs, though it was but a few minutes since he sat down ; 
 nevertheless, he consented to go on. Every measure, how- 
 ever, taken to relieve Richmond proved ineffectual ; he 
 remained motionless, and they were obliged to leave him to 
 the care of a sailor and the other black servant, who appeared 
 to be the least affected by the cold, and they were to be 
 relieved as soon as two others were sufficiently warmed to 
 supply their places. The doctor, with much difficulty, was 
 got to the fire, but the party who were sent to relieve the 
 companions of Richmond returned without having been able 
 to find them. 
 
 A fall of snow continuing for nearly two hours, there now 
 remained no hopes of seeing the three absent persons again. 
 About twelve o'clock, however, a great shouting was heard 
 at a distance, when Mr. Banks and four others went forth 
 and met the sailor, who had just strength enough left to 
 walk. He was immediately taken to the fire, and they 
 proceeded to seek for the other two. They found Richmond 
 upon his legs, of which, however, he had lost the use, and 
 the other black was lying senseless upon the ground. All 
 endeavours to bring them to the fire were fruitless ; nor was 
 it possible to kindle one upon the spot, on account of the 
 snow that had fallen and was still falling, so there remained 
 no alternative, and they were compelled to leave the two 
 unfortunate negroes to their fate, after they had made them 
 a bed of the boughs of some trees, and covered them over 
 thick with the same. As all hands had been employed in 
 endeavouring to move these poor fellows to the fire, and had 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 23 
 
 been exposed to the cold for near an hour and a half in the 
 attempt, some of them began to be afflicted in the same 
 manner as those whom they went to relieve. Briscoe, 
 another servant of Mr. Banks, in particular, began to lose 
 his sensibility. At last they reached the fire, and passed the 
 night in a very disagreeable manner. 
 
 The party that set out from the ship consisted of twelve ; 
 two were already judged to be dead, and it was doubtful 
 whether a third would be able to return on board ; Mr. 
 Buchan, a fourth, seemed to be threatened with a return of 
 his fits. They reckoned that the ship was distant a long 
 day's journey through an unfrequented wood, and having 
 been equipped only for a journey of a few hours, they had 
 not a sufficiency of provisions left to afford the company a 
 single meal. 
 
 At daybreak on the 17th nothing presented itself to view 
 but snoW; and the blasts of wind were so frequent and 
 violent that their journey seemed to be impracticable. How- 
 ever, about six in the morning they had a dawn of hope, by 
 discerning the sun through the clouds, and as they proposed 
 to set out on their return journey to the ship, messengers 
 were despatched to the unhappy negroes, but they returned 
 with the melancholy news of their death. They then started 
 about ten in the morning, and to their great astonishment 
 and satisfaction, in about three hours found themselves on 
 the shore, and much nearer the ship than their most sanguine 
 expectations could have suggested, for, instead of ascending 
 the hill in a direct hne, they had made a circle almost round 
 the country. 
 
 On the 20th Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander again proceeded 
 on shore, and collected a number of shells and plants hitherto 
 unknown. After dinner they went to visit an Indian town, 
 about two miles up the country, situated on a small hill 
 covered with wood, and consisting of about a dozen huts, 
 constructed without art or regularity, composed of a few 
 poles, inclining to each other in the shape of a sugar loaf ; 
 these poles were covered on the weather side with grass and 
 boughs, and on the lee side a space was left open which 
 
24 COOICS VOYAGES. 
 
 served at once for a fireplace and a door. A little grass 
 formed their only beds and chairs ; their utensils were a 
 basket for the hand, a satchel to hang upon the back, and a 
 bladder of water, out of which they drink through a hole in 
 the top. This town was inhabited by a tribe of about fifty 
 men, women, and children. Their bows and arrows were 
 constructed with neatness and ingenuity, being made of wood 
 highly polished, and the point, which was either glass or flint, 
 was very skilfully fitted. These latter substances were ob- 
 served among them unwrought, as also cloth, rings, buttons, 
 &c., from whence it was concluded that they sometimes 
 travelled to the northward, as no ship, for years past, had 
 touched at this part of Terra del Fuego. They did not show 
 any surprise at the sight of arms, but appeared to be well 
 acquainted with their use. They seemed to be of a very low 
 type of humanity, passing their lives in wandering in a for- 
 lorn manner over dreary wastes ; their only food was shell- 
 fish, nor had they the rudest implements of art — not even so 
 much as was necessary to dress their food. 
 
 On the 20th of January Captain Cook took his departure 
 from Cape Horn ; and the weather being very calm, Mr. Banks 
 proceeded in a small boat to shoot birds, when he killed some 
 shearwaters and some large albatrosses. The latter proved 
 very good food. Notwithstanding that the doubling of Cape 
 Horn was represented by voyagers of that date as fraught 
 with danger, and it was generally thought that passing through 
 the Straits of Magellan was less perilous, yet the Eiideavottr 
 doubled " the Horn," as sailors call it, with as little danger 
 as she would the North Foreland on the Kentish coast. The 
 heavens were fair, the wind temperate, the weather pleasant, 
 and, being near shore, they had a very distinct view of the 
 coast. Captain Cook surveyed the Bay of Good Success 
 and traced the coast. The former charts of this part of 
 Terra del Fuego were nearly useless, they having been 
 formed from the rude sketches of Hermite, the Dutch 
 admiral, in 1624, and those still worse of the discoverers 
 Schouten and Le Maire. 
 
 On the 25th a marine, about twenty years of age, being 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE, 25 
 
 falsely charged with theft, took the accusation so much to 
 heart that, in the dusk of the evening, he threw himself into 
 the sea and was drowned. 
 
 On the 4th of April, about 10 o'clock, Peter Briscoe, servant 
 to Mr. Banks, discovered land to the south, at the distance of 
 about three or four leagues. Captain Cook immediately gave 
 orders to sail for it, when they found an island of an oval 
 form, having a lagoon or lake in the centre, whence he gave it 
 the name of Lagoon Island. The surrounding border of the 
 land was low and narrow in many places, especially towards 
 the south, where the beach consisted of a reef of rocks. 
 Three places on the north side had the same appearance, so 
 that, on the whole, the land seemed to resemble several 
 woody islands. When within a mile of the north side, no 
 bottom could be found at 130 fathoms, nor any good anchorage. 
 Several of the natives were discovered on shore ; they appeared 
 to be tall, with heads remarkably large, which probably 
 some bandage might have increased. Their complexion was 
 copper colour and their hair black. Some of these people 
 were seen abreast of the ship, holding poles or pikes of twice 
 their own height. They appeared also to be naked, but w^hen 
 they retired, on the ship's passing by the islands, thev put 
 on a light covering ; some clumps of palm trees served them 
 for habitations. 
 
 The Endeavour, on the 5th, continued her course with a 
 favourable wind, and about three o'clock land was discovered 
 to the westward. It was low, in form resembling a bow, and 
 in circumference seemed to be ten or twelve leagues. Its 
 length was about three or four leagues, and its width about 
 200 yards. This island, from the smoke that was discovered, 
 appeared to be inhabited, and was named Bow Island. 
 
 On the loth of April, after a tempestuous night, the 
 Endeavour came in sight of Osnaburgh^^ Island, called by 
 the natives Maitea. This island is circular, about four miles 
 in circumference, partly rocky and partly covered with trees. 
 
 * Quiros, who first visited it in 1606, named it Dezana; Wallis, in 1767, calls 
 it Osnaburgh ; Bougainville, in 1768, terms it Boudoir; and Cook calls it by the 
 native name. 
 
26 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 On the nth they made Otaheite, or, as Captain WaUis had 
 named it, " George the Third's Island." This island, the 
 largest and most important of the Society group, was first 
 discovered by Quiros, a Spaniard, as early as the year 1606, 
 and called Sagittaria. The next European to visit it was 
 Captain WalHs, in 1767; and it had been so ill described 
 by the Spanish navigator, that our countryman was unable 
 to recognise it as the island discovered by him. The third 
 visitor was Captain Cook, on the occasion under notice. 
 
 The Society group consists of five islands and numerous 
 small islets. The former are called Otaheite, Eimeo, Meatia 
 (or Maitea), Maiaviti, and Tituaro ; and they all lie between 
 16° 30' and 17° 54' South lat, and 148° 153' West long. 
 At the present time, the island of Otaheite is the seat of the 
 native government, as well as that of the French, since its 
 subjugation. This island is formed by two distinct mountains, 
 rising to the height of from 6,000 to 8,000 feet, and divided 
 from each other by a low isthmus some three miles in width. 
 The circumference of Otaheite is between no and 113 miles, 
 and its coasts are girded by a coral reef. Its geological for- 
 mation is volcanic, though the valleys and hill-sides are of 
 great fertility. The climate is temperate, the temperature 
 ranging in summer between 68° and 86°. At the date of the 
 arrival of the first missionaries in 1797, the population is said 
 to have been under 20,000, and twenty years later it had 
 actually decreased to 5,000. Since 1820, owing to the aboli- 
 tion of infanticide and the influence of the new religion upon 
 the morals of the natives, the population has attained the 
 level of 1797, and again numbers 20,000.^ 
 
 The calms prevented the Endeavour approaching Otaheite 
 till the morning of the 12th of April, when a breeze sprang 
 up, and several canoes were seen making towards the ship. 
 Few of them, however, would come near, and the occupants 
 of those that did could not be persuaded to come on board. 
 They brought with them young plantains and branches of 
 trees, which were handed up the ship's side, and by their 
 
 * "Travels in the^ Sandwich and Society Islands/' by S. S. Hill. London, 1856. 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 27 
 
 desire were stuck in conspicuous parts of the rigging, as 
 tokens of peace and friendship. After this, the crew pur- 
 chased their commodities, consisting of cocoa-nuts, bananas, 
 bread-fruit, apples, and figs, which were very acceptable. 
 
 They lay "off and on" all night, and in the morning of the 
 13th entered Port Royal Harbour, in the island of Otaheite, 
 and anchored within half a mile of the shore. Many of the 
 natives came off immediately in their canoes, and brought 
 with them bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, apples, and some hogs, 
 which they bartered for beads and other trinkets with the 
 ship's company. The tree which bears the bread-fruit is about 
 the size of a horse chestnut ; its leaves are nearly a foot and 
 a half in length, in shape oblong, and very much resembling 
 those of the tig-tree. The fruit is enclosed in a thin skin, 
 and its core is as large as a man's thumb. The substance of 
 this fruit is somewhat like that of new bread, and as white 
 as the blanched almond. It should be roasted, and has a 
 sweetish taste to the palate. 
 
 Amongst those who came on board the Endeavour was an 
 elderly man named Owhaw, known to Mr. Gore and others 
 who had visited the island with Captain Wallis, and as he 
 was considered a very useful personage, they studied to 
 please him and to gratify all his wishes. 
 
 Captain Cook drew up several necessary rules to be ob- 
 served by every person on board, for the better establishment 
 of a regular trade with the natives. The substance of the 
 rules were, "That in order to prevent quarrels and confusion, 
 every one of the ship's crew should endeavour to treat the 
 inhabitants of Otaheite with humanity, and by all fair means . 
 to cultivate a friendship with them. That no officer, seaman, 
 or other person belonging to the ship, excepting such only 
 as were appointed to barter with the natives, should trade 
 or offer to trade, for any kind of provision, fruit, or other 
 produce of the island, without having express leave so to do. 
 That no person should embezzle, trade, or offer to trade with 
 any part of the ship's stores ; and that no sort of iron or any- 
 thing made of iron, or any sort of cloth, or other useful 
 articles in the ship, should be given in exchange for anything 
 
28 COOICS VOYAGES, 
 
 but provisions." These necessary rules were signed by 
 Captain Cook, and to the non-observance of them were an- 
 nexed certain penalties, besides the punishment accorded in 
 the navy to the infraction of the captain's orders. 
 
 When the ship was properly secured, Captain Cook, Mr. 
 Banks, and Dr. Solander went on shore, with an armed 
 party and their friend Owhaw. They were received with 
 awe and reverence by some hundreds of the natives, who 
 . exchanged the tokens of peace, and offered to conduct them 
 to a spot of ground which would be more convenient for them 
 to occupy than where they landed. They now took a circuit 
 of about four miles, through groves of the bread-fruit and 
 cocoa trees. Intermingled with these were the dwellings of the 
 natives, which consisted of huts without walls. In the course 
 of their journey they found but few fowls or hogs, and under- 
 stood that none of their conductors, nor any of the people they 
 had hitherto seen, were persons of rank in the island. Those 
 of the crew who had before been at Otaheite, in the Dolphin, 
 were likewise of opinion that the queen's residence had been 
 removed, as no traces of it were now to be discovered. 
 
 Next morning, before they could leave the ship,' several 
 canoes came about her, filled with people, whose dress de- 
 noted them to be of the superior class. Two of these came 
 on board, and each fixed on a friend ; one of them chose 
 Mr. Banks and the other Captain Cook. The ceremonial of 
 investiture, if it may be so called, consisted in taking off 
 their clothes in a great part and putting them upon their 
 adopted friends. This compliment was returned by the 
 gentlemen presenting them with some trinkets. They then 
 made signs for their new friends to go with them to the place 
 of their abode, and the latter, desirous of being acquainted 
 with the people, and finding out a more convenient har- 
 bour, accepted the invitation and went with them. Mr. 
 Banks, Dr. Solander, and others, landed in two boats at 
 a distance of about three miles from the ship, among a great 
 number of the natives, who conducted them to a large 
 habitation, where they were introduced to a middle-aged 
 man, named Tootahah. When they were seated, he pre- 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 29 
 
 sented to Mr. Banks a cock, a hen, and a piece of perfumed 
 cloth, which comphment was returned by a present from 
 Mr. Banks. They were conducted to several other large 
 dwellings, wherein they walked about with great freedom. 
 Walking afterwards along the shore they met another chief, 
 named Tubourai Tamaide, with whom they settled a treaty 
 of peace, in the manner before described. The chief gave 
 them to understand that he had provisions at their service, 
 if they chose to eat, which he produced, and they dined 
 heartily upon bread-fruit, plaintains, and fish. In the course 
 of this visit. Dr. Solander having missed an opera-glass, 
 complaint was made to the chief, which interrupted the 
 convivial party. This complaint was enforced by Mr. Banks 
 starting up and striking the butt-end of his musket against 
 the ground, which alarmed the Indians so much that all 
 of them ran precipitately out of the house, except the chief 
 and a few others of the superior class. The chief observed, 
 with an air of probity, that he would endeavour to recover 
 it, adding that if this could not be done he would make 
 compensation, by giving as much new cloth as should be 
 thought equal to the value. The case, however, was brought 
 in a short time, and the glass itself soon after. After this 
 adventure was amicably terminated, they returned to the 
 ship about six o'clock in the evening. 
 
 On Saturday, the 15th, in the morning, several of the 
 chiefs came on board, bringing with them hogs, bread-fruit, 
 and other refreshments, for which they received linen, beads, 
 and other trinkets. The captain, attended by Mr. Banks 
 and some officers, went on shore to select a suitable spot 
 for the erection of a fort for their defence during their stay, 
 and the ground was marked out for the purpose, a great 
 number of the natives looking on, and behaving in the most 
 peaceable manner. 
 
 Mr. Banks and his friends having seen few hogs and 
 poultry in their walks, suspected that they had been driven 
 up the country, for which reason they determined to 
 penetrate into the woods, the tent being guarded by a petty 
 officer and a party of marines. On this excursion several 
 
3q cook^s voyages. 
 
 of the natives accompanied them. While on their march 
 they were alarmed by the report of two pieces, fired by the 
 guard of the tent. Owhaw, calling together the captain's 
 party, dispersed all the Indians except three, who, in token 
 of their fidelity, broke branches of trees, according to their 
 custom, and whom it was thought proper to retain. When 
 they returned to the tent they found that an Indian had 
 snatched away one of the sentries' muskets, and a young 
 midshipman, who commanded the party, was so imprudent 
 as to give the marines orders to fire, and many of the natives 
 were wounded; but as the offender had not fallen, they 
 pursued him and shot him dead. Mr. Banks was much 
 displeased at this conduct; but as what had passed could 
 not be recalled, nothing remained but to endeavour to accom- 
 modate matters with the Indians. Accordingly, through the 
 mediation of an old man, several of the natives were prevailed 
 to come over to them, and to give the usual tokens of friend- 
 ship. The next morning, however, they saw but few of the 
 natives on the beach, and none on board, from whence it was 
 concluded that the treatment they had received the former 
 day was not yet forgotten ; and the English were confirmed 
 in this opinion by Owhaw's having left them. In consequence 
 of these circumstances the captain brought the ship nearer to 
 the shore, and moored her in such a manner as to make her 
 broadside bear on the spot which they had marked out for 
 erecting the fort. In the evening, the captain and some of 
 the gentlemen going on shore, the Indians came round them 
 and trafficked with them as usual. 
 
 On the 17th they had the misfortune to lose Mr. Buchan. 
 The same day they received a visit from Tubourai Tamaide 
 and Tootahah, who brought with them some plantain 
 branches, and till these were received they would not venture 
 on board. The erection of the fort commenced on the i8th. 
 
 Some of the ship's company were employed in throwing 
 up intrenchments, whilst others were busied in cutting 
 fascines, in which work the Indians assisted them. The 
 natives brought down such quantities of bread-fruit and cocoa- 
 nuts this day that it was necessary to refuse them, and to let 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 31 
 
 them know that none would be wanting for two days. Mr. 
 Banks slept for the first time on shore this night. None of 
 the Indians attempted to approach his tent ; he had, how- 
 ever, taken the precaution to place sentries about it for his 
 defence. 
 
 A sort of market was now established without the lines of 
 the fort, which was tolerably well supplied, and Tubourai 
 Tamaide was a frequent guest of Mr. Banks and the other 
 English gentlemen. He was the only native that attempted 
 to use a knife and fork, being fond of adopting European 
 manners. Mr. Monkhouse, the surgeon, being abroad on his 
 evening walk, reported that he had seen the body of the man 
 who had been shot from the tent. It was deposited in a shed, 
 close to the house where he had resided when alive. The 
 body lay on a bier, the frame of which was wood, supported 
 by pillars about 5 feet high, and covered with a mat, over 
 which lay a white cloth ; by its side lay a wooden mace, and 
 towards the head two cocoa-nut shells. Towards the feet 
 was a bunch of green leaves and small dried boughs tied 
 together, and stuck in the ground, near which was a stone 
 about the size of a cocoa-nut ; here were also placed a young 
 plantain tree, and on the stem of a palm tree, which was 
 placed upright outside of it, was placed a cocoa-shell, filled 
 with water. At the side of one of the posts there hung a little 
 bag with some roasted pieces of bread-fruit. The natives 
 were not pleased at his approaching the body, their jealousy 
 appearing plainly in their countenances and gestures. 
 
 On the 22nd they were entertained by some of the 
 musicians of the country, who performed on an instrument 
 somewhat resembling a German flute, but the performer blew 
 through his nostrils instead of his mouth, and others ac- 
 companied this instrument, singing only one tune. Some of 
 the Indians brought their axes to grind and repair, most of 
 which they had obtained from Captain Wallis and the crew 
 of the Dolphm ; but a French axe occasioned a little specula- 
 tion, and at length, upon inquiry, it appeared to have been 
 left here by M. De Bougainville. 
 
 On the 2Sth, several knives being missed, Mr. Banks, 
 
32 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 who had lost his among the rest, accused Tubourai 
 Tamaide of having taken it, upon which the chief, with tears 
 in his eyes, made signs that if he had been guilty of such a 
 theft as had been imputed to him, he would suffer his throat 
 to be cut. But, though he was innocent, it was plain that 
 the natives in general were very much addicted to thieving, 
 as though Mr. Banks' servant had mislaid the knife in 
 question, yet the rest were produced in a day by one of the 
 natives. 
 
 On the 26th six swivel guns were mounted on the fort, 
 which alarmed the Indians, and several of the fishermen 
 removed, fearing that the guns would open fire on them. 
 The next day, Tubourai Tamaide came with three women 
 and a friend to dine at the fort, and after dinner returned to 
 his own house. In a short time after he came back to com- 
 plain of a butcher, who had threatened to cut his wife's throat 
 because she would not barter a stone hatchet for a nail. It 
 appearing clearly that the offender had mfringed one of the 
 rules enjoined by the captain for trading with the natives, he 
 was flogged on board, in their sight. When the first stroke 
 had been given, they interfered, and entreated that the culprit 
 might be untied ; but when this favour was denied them, they 
 appeared greatly concerned, and burst into tears. 
 
 Mr. Molineux, master of the Endeavotiry seeing a woman 
 whose name was Oberea, he declared she was the same 
 person whom he judged to be queen of the island when he 
 was there with Captain Wallis. The eyes of every one were 
 now fixed on her, of whom so mtich had been said by the 
 crew of the Dolphin, and in the account given of her by 
 the captain. In person she was tall and rather large 
 made ; she was about forty years of age, her skin white, 
 and her eyes had great expression in them ; she had been 
 handsome, but her beauty was now upon the decline. An 
 offer was made to conduct her on board the ship, which she 
 accepted. Many presents were made her, particularly a 
 child's doll, which she viewed very attentively. Captain 
 Cook accompanied her on shore, and when they landed, she 
 presented him with a hog and some plantains in return for 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 33 
 
 his presents, which were carried to the fort in procession, 
 Oberea and the captain bringing up the rear. On the way 
 they met Tootahah, who, though not king, seemed at this time 
 invested with sovereign authority. He no sooner saw the 
 doll than he discovered strong symptoms of jealousy, nor 
 could any method be found of conciliating his friendship 
 but that of presenting him with one also. 
 
 On the 30th, Tomio came in great haste to the tents, and 
 taking Mr. Banks by the arm, told him that Tubourai 
 Tamaide was dying, owing to something which had been 
 given him by our people, and entreated him instantly to go 
 to him. Accordingly Mr. Banks did so, and found the 
 Indian very sick. He had been vomiting, and had thrown 
 up a leaf which they said contained some of the poison. Mr. 
 Banks having examined the leaf, found that it was tobacco, 
 which the Indian had begged from some of the ship's com- 
 pany. He ordered him to drink cocoa-nut milk, which soon 
 restored him. 
 
 On the 1st of May, a chief, who had lined with the 
 captain sometime before, accompanied by some of his 
 women, who used to feed him, came on board alone. At 
 dinner the captain helped him to some victuals, supposing 
 that he would have dispensed with the ceremony of being 
 fed, but the chief never attempted to eat, and would have 
 gone without his dinner if one of the servants had not fed 
 him. The officers took the astronomical quadrant and other 
 instruments on shore that afternoon, but when they wanted 
 to make use of the quadrant the next day, it was missing. A 
 strict search was made in and about the fort, and a con- 
 siderable reward was offered for it ; but all proving fruitless, 
 Mr. Banks, accompanied by Mr. Green and some others, set 
 out for the woods, where they thought they might probably hear 
 some tidings of what was stolen. On their way they met with 
 Tubourai Tamaide and some of the natives, who were made to 
 understand that they had lost the quadrant, and that, as some 
 of their countrymen must have taken it, they insisted upon 
 being shown the place where it was concealed. After some 
 inquiry, the instrument was recovered, and it was found that 
 
 c 
 
34 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 it had received no real injury, though it had been taken to 
 pieces. 
 
 When they returned in the evening, they were much 
 surprised to find Tootahah under confinement in the fort, 
 while a crowd of the natives surrounded the gate, discovering 
 marks of the greatest anxiety for the fate of their chief. The 
 occasion of his detention originated from the conduct of the 
 Indians, who, alarmed at Captain Cook's having gone up the 
 country with an armed party, left the fort that evening, and 
 one of the canoes attempted to quit the bay. The lieutenant 
 who commanded on board the ship, having received orders 
 not to suffer any canoes to depart, sent a boat to detain her, 
 but she no sooner approached than the Indians jumped into 
 the sea. Tootahah being of the number, was taken and sent 
 to the officer who commanded at the fort, who concluded he 
 should do right to detain him prisoner. The poor chief 
 expected to be put to death, until Captain Cook caused him 
 to be liberated, to the great joy of his countrymen. But the 
 natives enterta' ca a sense of injury, and, as a proof of it, 
 they neglectea to supply the market with provisions. 
 
 On the 3rd of May provisions were extremely scarce, and 
 it was not without difficulty that Mr. Banks got a few baskets 
 of bread-fruit from Tubourai Tamaide. Tootahah, on the 
 4th, sent for an axe and a shirt, in return for the hogs he had 
 left behind; and accordingly, early in the morning of the 5th, 
 Captain Cook, accompanied by Mr. Banks and the doctor, 
 set out in the pinnace, taking with them one of Tootahah's 
 people, and soon reached Eparre, where he resided. When 
 they arrived, they found a number of natives waiting for 
 them on shore, and were conducted directly to the chief, 
 the people, notwithstanding the offence they had so lately 
 taken, shouting out in their language, "Tootahah is your 
 friend." He was sitting under a tree, and some old men 
 were standing about him. Having made signs for them to 
 be seated, he asked for the axe, which was then given him by 
 Captain Cook, as also the shirt, and a broad-cloth garment, 
 which latter he put on, and was well pleased with the present. 
 They were afterwards conducted to a large court-yard on one 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 35 
 
 side of the chief's house, where they were entertained with 
 wrestling, after the manner of the country. He himself sat 
 at the upper end of the arena, having on each side of him 
 several of his principal men as judges of the sport, which 
 was conducted as follows : — 
 
 Ten or twelve combatants entered the arena, and after 
 many simple ceremonies of challenging, engaged, each 
 endeavouring to throw his antagonist by mere strength : they 
 seized each other by the hand, or other parts of the body, 
 and without the least art, till one, by having a greater hold, 
 or stronger muscular force, threw his antagonist on his back. 
 The conquest was applauded by the old men with a few 
 words, repeated in a kind of tune, and with three huzzas. 
 After one engagement another succeeded : if the combatants 
 could not throw each other in the space of a minute, they 
 parted, either by consent, or the intervention of their friends. 
 A man with a stick officiated as master of the ceremonies, 
 keeping order among the people, and those of them who 
 pressed forward he struck with his stick very smartly. 
 During these athletic sports, another party of men performed 
 a dance for the space of a minute, but neither of these parties 
 took the least notice of each other, their attention being 
 "Wholly fixed on their own endeavours to please and conquer. , 
 At the conclusion of this entertainment, not unlike the wrest- 
 ling matches of remote antiquity, they were told that some 
 hogs and a quantity of bread-fruit were preparing for dinner ; 
 but their host, instead of setting his twc^hogs before them, 
 ordered one of them to be carried into the boat. Here they 
 thought to have enjoyed their good cheer, but, at the desire 
 of Tubourai Tamaide, they proceeded to the ship. How- 
 ever, they were at last gratified with the promised repast, 
 of which the chief and his friends had a liberal share. This 
 flriendly reconciliation operated on the natives like a charm, 
 for it was no sooner known that Tubourai Tamaide was on 
 board, than provisions of all kinds were brought to the fort 
 in great plenty. 
 
 By this time the forge was set up and at work, which 
 afforded a new subject of admiration to the natives, and to 
 
36 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 Captain Cook an additional opportunity of conferring obliga- 
 tions on them, by permitting the smith, in his leisure hours, 
 to convert the old iron which they were supposed to have 
 procured from the Dolphin into various kinds of tools. 
 
 On the loth they sowed, in ground properly prepared, 
 seeds of melons and other plants, but none of them came 
 up except mustard. Mr. Banks thought the seeds were 
 spoiled by a total exclusion of fresh air, they having all been 
 put into small bottles, and sealed up with rosin. They 
 learnt this day that the Indians called the island Otaheite, 
 the name by which it is now distinguished. They were not 
 so fortunate in endeavouring to teach them their names ; 
 and after repeated attempts to pronounce them, which 
 proved fruitless, the natives had recourse to new names 
 of their own invention. Captain Cook they named Toote ; 
 Mr. Hicks, Hete ; the master they called Boba, from his 
 Christian name, Robert ; Mr. Gore, Toarro ; Dr. Solander, 
 Toano ; Mr. Banks, Tapane ; and so on with the greater 
 part of the ship's crew. 
 
 On the 13th, Tubourai Tamaide offended Mr. Banks by 
 snatching his gun out of his hand, and firing it in the air, 
 an action which much surprised that gentleman, as he 
 imagined him totally ignorant of the use of it. As con- 
 sideration for their safety imperatively required that these 
 people should not acquire the use of firearms, Mr. Banks 
 made a serious matter of what probably the other meant 
 only as a joke ; and, not without threats, gave him to under- 
 stand that to touch the piece was a great insult. The 
 offender made no reply, but set out immediately with his 
 family for Eparre. Great inconvenience being apprehended 
 from this man, and as in many instances he had been par- 
 ticularly useful, Mr. Banks determined to follow him. He 
 set out the same evening from the fort, accompanied by 
 Mr. Molineux, and found him in the middle of a large circle 
 of people, the picture of extreme grief, which was also visible 
 in the countenances of his attendants. Mr. Banks lost 
 no time in effecting a reconciliation with the chief, and a 
 double canoe being got ready they all returned together 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE, 37 
 
 to the fort before supper, and as a pledge of reconciliation 
 both he and his wife passed the night in the tent of 
 Mr. Banks. 
 
 On Monday, the 15th, Tubourai Tamaide was detected in 
 a theft. Mr. Banks had a good opinion of this chief, but a 
 basket of nails, left in the corner of the tent, proved irre- 
 sistible. He confessed the fact of having stolen four nails, 
 but when restitution was demanded, Tamaide said the nails 
 were at Eparre. High words passed, and the Indian pro- 
 duced one of the nails, and was to be forgiven on restoring 
 the rest ; but his virtue was not equal to the task, and he 
 withdrew himself as usual, when he had committed an 
 offence. 
 
 On the 27th, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Captain Cook, and 
 some others, set out in the pinnace to visit Tootahah, who 
 had again removed to a place called Atahouro, six miles from 
 his last abode. Having presented him with a yellow stuff 
 petticoat and other trifling articles, they were invited to 
 supper and to pass the night there. The party consisted of 
 six only, but the place was crowded with a greater number 
 than the houses and canoes could contain. Among the 
 guests was Oberea, with her train of attendants. Mr. Banks, 
 having accepted of a lodging in Oberea's canoe, left his com- 
 panions in order to retire to rest. Oberea had the charge of 
 his clothes ; but, notwithstanding her care, they were stolen, 
 as were also his pistols, his powder-horn, and several other 
 things out of his waistcoat pockets. An alarm was given to 
 Tootahah in the next canoe, who went with Oberea in search 
 of the thief, leaving Mr. Banks with only his breeches and 
 waistcoat on, and his musket uncharged. They soon re- 
 turned, but without success, and Mr. Banks thought proper 
 to put up with the loss at present, and he then proceeded to 
 find his companions. He found the hut where Captain Cook 
 and three other gentlemen slept, ^nd they told him that they 
 had lost their stockings and jackets. In effect. Dr. Solander, 
 who joined them the next morning, was the only one that 
 escaped being robbed, and he had slept at a house that was 
 a mile distant. 
 
38 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 Preparations were now made for viewing the transit of 
 Venus, and two parties were sent out to make observations 
 from different spots, so that in case of faihng at Otaheite, 
 they might succeed elsewhere. They employed themselves 
 in preparing their instruments, and instructing in the use of 
 them those gentlemen who were to go out; and on Thursday, 
 the 1st of June, they sent the long boat, with Mr. Gore, Mr. 
 Monkhouse (the two observers), and Mr. Sporing, a friend of 
 Mr. Banks, with proper instruments, to Eimayo. Others 
 were sent to find out a spot that might answer the pur- 
 pose, at a convenient distance from their principal 
 station. 
 
 The party that went towards Eimayo, after rowing the 
 greater part of the night, having hailed a canoe, were in- 
 formed by the Indians of a place which was judged proper 
 for their observatory. On this rock, which rose out of the 
 water, about 140 yards from the shore, they fixed their 
 tents. 
 
 On Saturday, the 3rd, the day of the transit, Mr. Banks, as 
 soon as it was light, left them in order to go and get fresh 
 provisions on the island, and had the satisfaction of seeing 
 the sun rise without a cloud. The king, whose name was 
 Tarrao, came to pay him a visit, and brought with him 
 Nuna, his sister. As it was customary for the people to be 
 seated at their conferences, Mr. Banks spread his turban of 
 Indian cloth, which he wore as a hat, upon the ground, and 
 they all sat down. Then the king's presents, consisting of a 
 hog and a dog, some cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit, were brought, 
 and Mr. Banks presented in return an adze, a shirt, and some 
 beads, which his Majesty received with apparent satisfaction. 
 The king, his sister, and three good-looking young women, 
 their attendants, then accompanied Mr. Banks to the obser- 
 vatory, where he showed them the transit of Venus over the 
 sun's disc, and informed them that his sole object in under- 
 taking a voyage from remote regions was to view the planet 
 in that situation. Both the parties that were sent out to 
 make observations on the transit met with good success, 
 though they differed more than might have been expected in 
 
)urs. 
 
 MIn. 
 
 Sec. 
 
 9 
 
 25 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 44 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 32 
 
 lO 
 
 THE FIRST VOYAGE. 39 
 
 their records of the contact. Mr. Green's account was as 
 
 follows : — 
 
 Morning. 
 
 The first external contact, or appearance of Venus on the Sun 
 
 The first internal contact, or total immersion 
 
 Afternoon. 
 The second internal contact, or beginning of the immersion . 
 The second external contact, or total immersion 
 
 Latitude of the Observatory, 17° 29' 15". 
 
 Longitude, 149° 32' 30' W. of Greenwich. 
 
 While the gentlemen and officers were busied in viewing 
 the transit, some of the ship's company broke into the 
 store-room and stole a quantity of spike-nails. After a strict 
 search the thief was discovered, and was ordered to receive 
 two dozen lashes. 
 
 On account of the absence, on the 4th of June, of the two 
 parties sent out to observe the transit, Captain Cook deferred 
 keeping the birthday of King George the Third to the next 
 day, the 5th, when it was celebrated, and several of the Indian 
 chiefs partook of the entertainment, and drank his Majesty's 
 health in the name of Kihiargo, the nearest imitation they 
 could produce of King George. On the 12th, complaint was 
 made that the Indians had lost some of their bows and 
 arrows and strings of plaited hair; the affair was inquired 
 into, and being well attested, the offending sailors each 
 received two dozen lashes, which appears to have been the 
 limit of the corporal punishment ever inflicted by Captain 
 Cook, whose humanity appears in marked contrast to that of 
 naval commanders of his time, when frequently many hundred 
 lashes were adjudged for offences that would now be punished 
 by two dozen, or fifty lashes at the outside. 
 
 On the 19th, in the evening, Oberea and several of her 
 attendants paid the E7ideavour a. visit. She came from 
 Tootahah's palace in a double canoe, and brought with her a 
 hog, bread-fruit, and other presents, among which was a dog. 
 Tupia undertook to kill and dress the dog, which he did by 
 making a hole in the ground and baking it, and it was 
 esteemed a very good dish. 
 
40 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 On the 2 1 St they were visited by many of the natives, who 
 brought with them various presents. Among the rest was a 
 chief named Oamo, accompanied by a boy and a young 
 woman. Oberea and some of the Indians went from the fort 
 to meet them, bareheaded, and uncovered as low as the 
 waist, which the Enghsh judged to be marks of respect 
 usually shown to persons of high rank. When Oamo 
 entered the tent, the young woman, though seemingly very 
 curious, could not be prevailed upon to accompany him. 
 The youth was introduced by Dr. Solander, but as soon as 
 the Indians saw him, they took care to have him sent out. 
 
 Curiosity being raised by these circumstances, they made 
 inquiry concerning the strangers, and were informed that 
 Oamo was the husband of Oberea, but that by mutual con- 
 sent they had been for a considerable time separated, and 
 the boy and girl were their children. The former was called 
 Terridiri ; he was heir-apparent to the sovereignty of the 
 islands, and when he attained the proper age was to marry 
 his sister. 
 
 On the 23rd, in the morning, one of the crew being missing, 
 they were told he was at Eparre, Tootahah's residence in the 
 wood, and one of the Indians offered to fetch him back. On 
 his return, he said that he had been taken from the fort and 
 carried to the top of the bay by three men, who forced him 
 into a canoe, after having stripped him, and conducted him 
 to Eparre, where he received some clothes from Tootahah, 
 who endeavoured to prevail on him to continue there. There 
 was reason to conclude this account true, for the natives 
 were no sooner acquainted with his return than they left the 
 fort with precipitation. 
 
 On June the 26th, early in the morning, Captain Cook 
 setting out in the pinnace with Mr. Banks, sailed to the 
 eastward, with a view of circumnavigating the island. 
 Coming to a large bay, they mentioned their design of going 
 to the other side ; but their Indian guide, whose name was 
 Titubaola, said he would not accompany them, and also 
 endeavoured to dissuade them from going, observing, " that 
 the country was inhabited by people who were not subject to 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 41 
 
 Tootahah, and who would destroy them all." They resolved, 
 however, to put their design into execution, and on loading 
 their pieces with ball, Titubaolo ventured to go with them. 
 
 Having rowed till it was dark, they reached a narrow 
 isthmus which divided the island into two parts, which 
 formed distinct governments. They landed in the district of 
 a chief called Maraitata, a name which signifies the burying 
 place of men ; his father was called Pahairede- — that is, a 
 stealer of boats. The people, however, gave the captain a 
 very good reception, sold them a hog for a hatchet, and fur- 
 nished them with provisions. 
 
 A crowd of the natives came round the English gentlemen, 
 who continued to advance until they reached a district under 
 the government of Waheatua. They proceeded on their 
 journey for a considerable way along the shore, till at last 
 they were met by the chief, who had with him an agreeable 
 woman of about twenty-two years of age, who was called 
 Toudiddi. 
 
 The parts which they now passed appeared to be better 
 cultivated than any of the rest, and the burial-places, 
 which were neat and ornamented with carvings, were more 
 numerous. 
 
 A little further to the eastward they landed again, and 
 were met by Mathiabo, a chief, with whom they were un- 
 acquainted. He supplied them with bread-fruit and cocoa- 
 nuts, and they purchased a hog for a glass bottle, which he 
 chose in preference to all the other articles presented for his 
 acceptance. A turkey and a goose were seen here, which were 
 much admired by the natives, and were supposed to have 
 been left by Captain Wallis's people. When they left the 
 place the chief piloted them over the shoals. In the evening, 
 on their arrival at a bay on the north-west side of the island, 
 they met with a very friendly reception from the chief, whose 
 name was Wiverou, with whom they supped, in company 
 with Mathiabo. Part of the house was allotted for them to 
 sleep in, and soon after supper they retired to rest. The 
 thieving propensities of these people, from the chiefs down- 
 ward, were incorrigible, and again received an illustration 
 
42 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 in the conduct of Mathiabo, who, having borrowed a cloak 
 from Mr. Banks, to serve as a coverlet when he lay down, 
 made off with it. News of the robbery was brought them 
 by one of the natives, and they set out in pursuit of Mathiabo, 
 but had proceeded only a little way before they were met by 
 a person bringing back the cloak, which this person had 
 given up through fear. 
 
 On their return they found the house entirely deserted, 
 and about four in the morning the sentry gave the alarm 
 that the boat was missing. Their situation now was 
 extremely disagreeable. The party consisted of only four, 
 with one musket and two pocket pistols, witliout a spare 
 ball or a charge of powder. After remaining a considerable 
 time in a state of anxiety, the boat, which had been driven 
 away by the tide, returned ; and Mr. Banks and his com- 
 panions had no sooner breakfasted than they set out on their 
 return. 
 
 On Friday, the 30th, they arrived at Otahorou, where they 
 found their old acquaintance Tootahah, who received them 
 with great civility, and provided them a good supper and 
 convenient lodgings ; and though they had been so shame- 
 fully plundered the last time they slept with this chief, they 
 spent the night in the greatest security, none of their clothes 
 nor any article being missing the next morning. They 
 arrived at the fort at Port Royal Harbour on the ist of July. 
 
 After their return from this tour, they were very much in 
 need of bread-fruit, but their Indian friends soon supplied 
 their wants. 
 
 On the 3rd Mr. Banks made an excursion in order to trace 
 the river up the valley to its source, and to note the condition 
 of the country along its banks. He took some Indian guides 
 with him, and after passing houses for about six miles along 
 its course, came to one which was said to be the last 
 that could be met with. The master presented them with 
 cocoa-nuts and other fruits, and they proceeded on their 
 walk. In the course of their journey they often passed 
 through vaults, formed by rocky fragments, in which, as they 
 were told, benighted travellers sometimes took shelter. 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE, 43 
 
 Pursuing the course of the river about six miles further, they 
 found it banked on both sides by rocks almost 100 feet in 
 height, and nearly perpendicular. Mr. Banks sought in 
 vain for minerals among the rocks, which, though bare on 
 almost all sides, were destitute of such substances. The 
 stones everywhere exhibited signs of having been burnt, 
 which was the case with all the stones that were found while 
 they stayed at Otaheite ; and both there and in the neigh- 
 bouring islands the traces of lire were evident in the clay 
 upon the hills. 
 
 On the 4th a great quantity of the seeds of the water- 
 melon, oranges, limes, and other plants, brought from Rio 
 de Janeiro, were planted on each side of the fort by Mr. 
 Banks, who also plentifully supplied the Indians with them, 
 and planted many of them in the woods. Some melons, 
 the seeds of which had been sown on their first arrival on 
 the island, grew up and flourished before they left it. 
 
 Preparations were now made to depart. The carpenters 
 being ordered to take down the gates and palisades of the 
 fort, to be converted into firewood for the Ejideavour, one 
 of the natives stole the staple and hook of the gate ; he was 
 pursued in vain, but the property was recovered and returned 
 by Tubourai Tamaide. 
 
 Between the 8th and 9th two young marines one night 
 withdrew themselves from the fort, their absence being dis- 
 covered in the morning. Notice having been given the next 
 day that the ship would sail on that or the ensuing day, 
 Captain Cook began to suspect that they designed to remain 
 on shore ; but as no means could be taken to recover them 
 without running a risk of destroying the harmony that sub- 
 sisted with the natives, he resolved to wait a day, in hopes 
 of their returning. But as they were still missing on the 
 loth, an inquiry was made after them, when the Indians de- 
 clared that they did not purpose to return, having taken 
 refuge among the mountains, where it was impossible for 
 them to be discovered, and that each of them had taken a 
 wife. In consequence of this, it was intimated to several of 
 the chiefs who were in the fort, with the women, among whom 
 
44 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 was Tubourai Tamaide, Tomio, and Oberea, that they 
 would not be suffered to quit it till the deserters were pro- 
 duced. They did not show any signs of fear or discontent, 
 but assured the captain that the marines should be sent back. 
 In the meantime Mr. Hicks was despatched in the pinnace 
 to bring Tootahah on board the ship, and he executed his 
 commission without giving any alarm. Night coming on, 
 Captain Cook thought it imprudent to let the people whom 
 he had detained as hostages remain at the fort ; he therefore 
 gave orders to remove them on board, which greatly alarmed 
 them all, especially the females, who testified their fears by 
 floods of tears. 
 
 In the evening one of the marines was brought back by 
 some of the natives, who reported that the other, and two of 
 our men who went to recover them, would be detained till 
 Tootahah was released. Upon this Mr. Hicks was immedi- 
 ately sent off in the long boat, with a strong body of men to 
 rescue the prisoners ; at the same time the captain told 
 Tootahah that it was incumbent on him to assist them with 
 some of his people, and to give orders, in his name, that the 
 men should be set at liberty, for that he would be held 
 answerable for the event. Tootahah immediately complied 
 and the party recovered the men without opposition. On ex- 
 amining the deserters, it appeared that the Indians had told 
 the truth, they having associated with the females, with whom 
 they intended to have remained in the island. Tupia, who 
 had been prime minister to Oberea when she was supreme, 
 and being also chief priest, was well acquainted with the 
 religion of the country, had often expressed a desire to go 
 with them whenever they continued their voyage. 
 
 On the morning of the 12th of July he came on board, 
 with a boy about twelve years of age, his servant, named 
 Taiyota, and earnestly requested permission to accompany 
 them. As it was thought he would be useful to them, his re- 
 quest was complied with. Tupia then went on shore for the 
 last time, to bid farewell to his friends, to whom he gave 
 several small tokens of remembrance. 
 
 Mr. Banks, being desirous of obtaining a drawing of the 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE, 45 
 
 Morai, which Tootahah had in his possession at Eparre, 
 Captain Cook accompanied him thither in the pinnace, 
 together with Dr. Solander. Immediately upon landing they 
 repaired to Tootahah's house, where they were met by Oberea 
 and several others. A general good understanding prevailed. 
 Tupia came back with them, and they promised to visit the 
 gentlemen early the next day, as they were told the ship 
 would then sail. 
 
 On the 13th these friendly people came very early on board, 
 and the ship was surrounded with a vast number of canoes, 
 filled with Indians of the lower sort. Between eleven and 
 twelve they weighed anchor, and took their leave of the 
 natives, who could not restrain their tears. Tupia supported 
 himself through this scene with a becoming fortitude, and 
 though tears flowed from his eyes, the effort he made to 
 conceal them did him additional honour. He went with Mr. 
 Banks to the mast-head, and waving his hand, took a last 
 farewell of his country. Thus they departed from Otaheite, 
 after a stay of just three months. 
 
 According to Tupia's account, this island could furnish 
 above 6,000 fighting men. The produce is bread-fruit, cocoa- 
 nuts, bananas, sweet potatoes, yams, sugar-canes, the paper 
 mulberry, several sorts of figs, with many other plants and 
 trees, all which the earth produces spontaneously, or with 
 little culture. They have no European fruits, garden stuff, 
 pulse, nor grain of any kind. The tame animals are hogs, dogs, 
 and poultry ; there are also wild ducks, pigeons, parroquets, 
 and a few other birds. The only quadrupeds are rats, and not 
 a serpent is to be seen. In the sea is a great variety of 
 excellent fish, which constitute their greatest luxury. 
 
 The people in general are of a larger make than the 
 Europeans. The males are mostly tall, robust, and finely 
 shaped ; the women of the higher class are about the size of 
 our English ladies, but those of inferior rank are below our 
 standard, and some of them very short. Their natural com- 
 plexion is a fine clear ohve, or what we call a brunette. 
 Their skins are delicately smooth and agreeably soft ; their 
 faces in general are handsome, and their eyes full of 
 
46 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 sensibility. Their teeth are remarkably white and regular, 
 and their hair for the most part black. The men, unlike the 
 aboriginal inhabitants of America, have long beards, which 
 they wear in various shapes. Their motions are easy and 
 graceful, and their behaviour, when unprovoked, affable and 
 courteous. Contrary to the custom of most other nations, 
 the women of this country cut their hair short, whereas the 
 men wear it long, sometimes hanging loose upon their 
 shoulders, at other times tied in a knot on the crown of the 
 head, in which they stick the feathers of birds of various 
 colours. A piece of cloth, of the manufacture of the country, 
 is frequently tied round the heads of both sexes in the manner 
 of a turban, and the women plait their human hair into long 
 strings, which are tied on the forehead by way of ornament. 
 
 They stain their bodies by indenting or pricking the flesh 
 with a small instrument of bone, cut into short teeth, which 
 indentures they fill with a dark blue or blackish mixture 
 prepared from the smoke of an oily nut and water. This 
 operation, called by the natives tattaowing, whence we derive 
 the term tattooing, is exceedingly painful, and leaves an 
 indelible mark on the skin. It is usually performed when 
 they are about ten or twelve years of age, and on different 
 parts of the body ; the instrument employed has twenty 
 teeth, and at each stroke blood issues ; both males and 
 females are compelled to undergo the operation. They 
 clothe themselves in cloth and matting of various kinds ; the 
 first they wear in fine, the latter in wet weather. The 
 garments are in different forms, no shape being observed in 
 the pieces, nor are they sewed together. The women of the 
 superior class wear three or four pieces ; one, which is of 
 considerable length, they wrap several times round the waist, 
 and it falls down to the middle of the legs. Two or three 
 other short pieces, with a hole cut through the middle of 
 each, are placed one on another, and their heads coming 
 through the holes, the long ends hang before and behind, 
 while both sides being open, they have the free use of their 
 arms. 
 
 The dress of the men is very similar, differing only in this. 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE, 47 
 
 that one part of the garment, instead of falling below the 
 knees, is brought between the legs. This dress is worn by 
 all ranks of people, the only distinction being quantity in the 
 superior class. At noon both sexes appear almost naked, 
 wearing only a piece of cloth tied round the waist. Their 
 faces are shaded from the sun with small bonnets made of 
 cocoa-nut leaves or matting, which they construct in a few 
 minutes. The men sometimes wear a sort of wig of human 
 or dog's hair, or of cocoa-nut strings, woven on a single 
 thread, and hanging down behind. Both men and women 
 wear ear-rings on one side, consisting of shells, stones, 
 berries, or small pearls ; but they soon gave the preference 
 to the beads brought by the E?tdeavoiir^s company. The 
 boys and girls go quite naked ; the first till they are seven or 
 eight years old, the latter till they are about five. 
 
 The natives of Otaheite seldom use their houses but to 
 sleep in or to avoid the rain, and they eat their meals under 
 the shade of a tree. Their clothes serve them for covering 
 at night. There are no divisions or apartments ; the master 
 and his wife repose in the middle, next the unmarried 
 females, then the unmarried men, and in fair weather the 
 servants sleep in the open air. The houses of the chiefs, 
 however, differ in some particulars. There are some very 
 small, and so constructed as to be carried in canoes ; all 
 sides of them are enclosed with the leaves of the cocoa- 
 nut ; the air nevertheless penetrates. In these the chief 
 and his wife only sleep. There are also houses which are 
 general receptacles for the inhabitants of a district, many 
 of them being more than 200 feet in length, 40 in breath, 
 and 70 or 80 feet high. They are constructed at the common 
 expense, and have an area on one side, surrounded with low 
 palisades, but, like the others, without walls. 
 
 The cookery consists chiefly in baking. When a chief 
 kills a hog, which is seldom, he divides it equally among 
 his vassals. Dogs and towls are more common food. When 
 the bread-fruit is not in season, cocoa-nuts, bananas, plan- 
 tains, &c., are substituted in its stead. They bake their 
 bread-iruit in a manner which renders it somewhat like a 
 
48 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 mealy potato. Of this three dishes are made by beating 
 them up with bananas, plantains, or sour paste, which is 
 called by them mahie. Their drink is generally confined to 
 water, or the milk of the cocoa-nut ; some of them would 
 drink so freely of the English liquors as to become quite 
 intoxicated, though they were never known to practise a 
 debauch of this kind a second time. It was said that their 
 chiefs sometimes became inebriated by drinking the juice of 
 a plant called ava, but of this not a single instance occurred 
 during the time the Endeavour remained at the island. 
 
 Chiefs eat generally alone, unless when visited by a stranger, 
 who is permitted sometimes to be a mess-mate. They sit 
 on the ground, with leaves of trees spread before them as a 
 table-cloth. Their attendants, who are numerous, having 
 placed a basket before the chiefs, containing their provisions, 
 and cocoa-nut shells of fresh and salt water, seat themselves 
 around them ; they then wash their mouths and hands ; 
 after which they eat a handful of bread-fruit and fish, dipped 
 in salt water, alternately, till the whole is consumed, taking 
 a sip of salt water between almost every morsel. The bread- 
 fruit and fish is succeeded by a second course, consisting of 
 either plantains or apples, which they never eat without 
 being pared. During this time a soft fluid of paste is 
 prepared from the bread-fruit, which they drink out of 
 cocoa-nut shells. This concludes the meal, and they wash 
 their hands and mouths again as at the beginning. They eat 
 an astonishing amount of food at a meal. Mr. Banks and 
 others saw one of them devour three fish of the size of a 
 small carp, four bread-fruits as large as a common melon, 
 thirteen or fourteen plantains seven inches long, and above 
 half as big round, to all which was added a quart of paste to 
 wash down and digest the whole. 
 
 The inhabitants of this island, though apparently fond of 
 the pleasures of society, have yet an aversion to holding any 
 intercourse with each other at their meals, and they are so 
 rigid in the observance of this custom, that even brothers 
 and sisters have their separate baskets of provisions, and 
 generally sit some yards apart, when they eat with their 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 49 
 
 backs to each other, and without exchanging a word. The 
 middle-aged of superior rank usually take a siesta after 
 dinner, but older people are not so indolent. 
 
 Music, dancing, wrestling, and shooting with the bow con- 
 stitute the greatest part of their diversions. Flutes and 
 drums are the only musical instruments among them. Their 
 drums are formed of a circular piece of wood, hollow at one 
 end only, which is covered with the skin of a shark, and 
 beaten with the hand instead of a stick. Their songs are 
 extempore and frequently in rhyme, but consisting only of 
 couplets, which are often sung by way of evening amuse- 
 ments, between sunset and bed-time ; during this interval 
 they burn candles made of an oily nut, fixing them one above 
 another upon a small stick, which is run through the middle. 
 Some of these candles will burn a long time and afford a 
 good light. 
 
 Personal cleanliness is much esteemed among these 
 Indians. Both sexes are particular in washing three times 
 a day — when they rise, at noon, and again before they go 
 to rest. They are also cleanly in their clothes, so that 
 no disagreeable effluvia are found to arise in the largest 
 assemblies. 
 
 Cloth is the chief manufacture of Otaheite, and of this 
 there are three sorts, which are made out of the bark of 
 different trees, namely, the mulberry, the bread-fruit, and a 
 tree which bears some resemblance to the West Indian wild 
 fig-tree. The first of these produces the finest cloth, which 
 is seldom worn but by those of the first rank. The next 
 quality is made of the bread-fruit tree, and the coarsest of 
 that which resembles the wild fig-tree. This last sort, though 
 the coarsest, is manufactured only in small quantities. 
 
 Matting of various kinds is another manufacture in which 
 in many respects they excel Europeans. They make use 
 of the coarser quality to sleep upon, and in wet weather they 
 wear the finer. They excel in basket and wicker work, and 
 both men and women employ themselves in working them 
 in a great variety of patterns. They make ropes and lines 
 of all sizes of the bark of the poerou, and their nets for fish- 
 
 D 
 
50 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 ing are made of these lines. They make thread of the 
 fibres of the cocoa-nut, with which they fasten together the 
 several parts of their canoes, the forms of which are various, 
 according to the use to which they are applied. The fishing- 
 lines are esteemed the best in the world, made of the bark of 
 the erowa, a kind of nettle which grows on the mountains. 
 They are strong enough to hold the heaviest and most 
 vigorous fish, such as bonetas and albicores. 
 
 The tools which these people make use of for building 
 houses, constructing canoes, hewing stones, and for felling, 
 cleaving, carving, and polishing timber, consist of nothing 
 more than an adze of stone and a chisel of bone, most 
 commonly that of a man's arm ; and for a file^ or polisher^ 
 they make use of a rasp of coral and coral sand. The blades 
 of their adzes are extremely tough, but not very hard ; they 
 are of various sizes, those for felling wood weigh six or seven 
 pounds, and others, which are used for carving, only a few 
 ounces. 
 
 Some of the smaller boats are made of the bread-fruit 
 tree, which is wrought without much difficulty, being of a 
 light spongy nature. Instead of planes, they use their adzes 
 with great dexterity. Their canoes are all shaped with the 
 hand, the Indians not being acquainted with the method of 
 warping a plank. Of these they have two kinds, one used 
 for short trips, and the other for longer voyages. These 
 boats are in no degree proportionate, being from 60 to 70 
 feet in length, and not more than a thirtieth part in breadth. 
 The ivahahs, or war-boats, are fastened together side by side 
 when they go to sea, at the distance of a few feet, by strong 
 wooden poles, which are laid across them and joined to each 
 side. A stage or platform is raised on the forepart, about 10 
 or 12 feet long/ upon which stand the fighting men, whose 
 missile weapons are slings and spears. Beneath these stages 
 the rowers sit, who supply the place of those who are wounded. 
 The pahies, or sea-going boats, in going from one island to 
 another, are out sometimes a month, and often a fortnight or 
 twenty days, and if they had convenience to stow more pro- 
 visions, they could keep the sea much longer. These vessels 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE, 51 
 
 are very useful in landing, and putting off from the shore 
 in a surf, for by their great length and high stern they land 
 dry, when the Endeavour's boats could scarcely land at all. 
 
 The care of the sick belongs to the priests, whose office is 
 hereditary, and whose method of cure consists generally of 
 prayers and ceremonies which are repeated till the patients 
 recover or die. 
 
 The religion of these islanders appears to be very myste- 
 rious. The Supreme Being they style " The Causer of Earth- 
 quakes." They suppose that the chiefs and principal people 
 will have the preference to those of lower ranks in a future 
 state, and that the Deity takes no particular cognisance of 
 their actions. 
 
 Their weapons consist of slings, in the use of which they 
 are extremely dexterous, and of long clubs, remarkably hard, 
 with which they fight obstinately and cruelly, giving no quarter 
 to their enemies in battle. 
 
 On the 13th of July, 1769, the E7ideavour c^\\X.^^ Otaheite. 
 Captain Cook was informed by Tupia that four islands, which 
 he called Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, and Bolabola, were at 
 the distance of about one or two days' sail, and that hogs, 
 fowls, and other refreshments, which had been very scarce, 
 were to be got there in abundance. 
 
 On the 1 6th they sounded near the north-west part of the 
 island of Huaheine, but found no bottom at seventy fathoms. 
 Several canoes put off, but the Indians seemed fearful of 
 coming near the ship, till the sight of Tupia removed their 
 apprehensions. They then came alongside, and the king 
 of the island, with his queen, came on board. They seemed 
 surprised at whatever was shown them, but made no inquiries 
 after anything but what was offered to their notice. The 
 king, whose name was Oree, as a token of amity, proposed 
 exchanging names with Captain Cook, which was readily 
 acceded to. 
 
 Having anchored in a small but convenient harbour on the 
 west side of the island (called by the natives Owparre), the 
 captain went on shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and some 
 officers, with the king and Tupia. The moment they landed 
 
52 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 Tupia uncovered himself as low as the waist, and desired 
 Mr. Monkhouse to follow his example. Being seated, he 
 began a speech which lasted about twenty minutes ; the king, 
 who stood opposite to him, answering him in what seemed 
 set replies. During this harangue, Tupia delivered, at dif- 
 ferent times, a handkerchief, a black silk neckcloth, some 
 plantains and beads, as presents to their Eatua or Deity; 
 and in return received a hog, some young plantains, and 
 two bunches of feathers, all which were carried on board. 
 These ceremonies were considered as a kind of ratifica- 
 tion of a treaty between the English and the King of 
 Huaheine. 
 
 On the 19th, in exchange for some hatchets, they obtained 
 three very large hogs. As they intended to sail in the after- 
 noon. King Oree and others of the natives went on board to 
 take their leave. Captain Cook presented to Oree a small 
 pewter plate, stamped with this inscription, " His Britannic 
 Majesty's Ship Endeavour, Captain Cook Commander. July 
 1 6th, 1769." They gave him also some medals or counters, 
 resembling English coins, and other trifles, which he pro- 
 mised to keep. From Huaheine, which is about sixty miles 
 from Otaheite, they sailed for the island of Ulietea, distant 
 seven or eight leagues. 
 
 On the 20th the Endeavour anchored in a bay on the 
 north side of that island. Two canoes soon came oif from 
 the shore, and the natives brought with them two small hogs, 
 which they exchanged for some nails and beads. The 
 captain, Mr. Banks, and other gentlemen now went on 
 shore, accompanied by Tupia, who introduced them with the 
 same kind of ceremonies that had taken place on their land- 
 ing at Huaheine ; after this Captain Cook took possession of 
 this and the adjacent islands, in the name of his Britannic 
 Majesty. 
 
 On the 24th they put to sea, and steered northward within 
 the reef, towards an opening about five or six leagues 
 distant, in effecting which they were in danger of striking 
 on a rock, the soundings suddenly deepening to "two 
 fathoms," supposed to be the edge of a coral rock, many of 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 53 
 
 which, in the neighbourhood of these islands, are as steep as 
 a wall. 
 
 On the 25th they were within a league or two of the 
 island of Otaha, but could not get near enough to land, the 
 wind being contrary until the morning, when Mr. Banks and 
 Dr. Solander went in the long-boat with the master, to sound 
 a harbour on the east side of the island, which they found 
 safe and convenient. They then went on shore and pur- 
 chased a large quantity of plantains and some hogs and 
 fowls. 
 
 They made sail to the northward, and finding themselves 
 to windward of a harbour on the west side of Ulietea, on the 
 2nd of August, they moored in twenty-eight fathoms. Many 
 of the natives came off and brought hogs, fowls, and plantains, 
 which were purchased upon very moderate terms. Mr. Banks 
 and Dr. Solander went on shore and spent the day very 
 agreeably, the natives showing them very great respect. Being 
 conducted to the houses of the chief people, they found those 
 who had run hastily before them, standing on each side of a 
 long mat spread upon the ground, and the family sitting at 
 the further end of it. 
 
 Intone of the houses they were entertained with a dance, 
 different from any they had yet seen. The performer put 
 upon his head a large piece of wicker-work, about four feet 
 long, of a cylindrical form, covered with feathers, and edged 
 round with shark's teeth. With this head-dress he began to 
 dance with a slow motion, frequently moving his head so as 
 to describe a circle with the top of his wicker cap, and some- 
 times throwing it so near the faces of the bystanders as to 
 make them jump back. This they considered as an excellent 
 piece of humour, and it always produced a hearty laugh when 
 practised upon any of the English gentlemen. On the 3rd 
 they met with another company of dancers, consisting of six 
 men and two women. The dancers were some of the prin- 
 cipal people of the island, and though they were an itinerant 
 troop, they did not, like the strolling parties of Otaheite, 
 receive any gratuity from the bystanders. The women wore 
 a considerable quantity of plaited hair, ornamented with 
 
54 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 flowers, which were stuck in with taste, and made an elegant 
 head-dress. They advanced sideways, keeping time with 
 great exactness to the drums, which beat quick and loud; 
 soon after they began to shake themselves in a very whimsical 
 manner, and put their bodies into a variety of strange postures, 
 sometimes sitting down, and at others falling with their faces 
 to the ground, and resting on their knees and elbows, moving 
 their fingers at the same time with a quickness scarcely to be 
 credited. Between the dances of the women a kind of 
 dramatic interlude was performed by the men, consisting of 
 dialogues as well as dancing; but they could not learn the 
 subject of this interlude. 
 
 Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and some other gentlemen were 
 present at a more regular dramatic entertainment the next 
 day. The performers, who were all men, were divided into 
 two parties, one dressed in brown, the other in white, by way 
 of distinction. Tupia being present, informed them that the 
 party in brown acted the parts of a master and his servants, 
 and the party in white a gang of thieves. The master 
 having produced a basket of meat, which he gave in charge 
 to his servants, the party in white exhibited a variety of 
 expedients in endeavouring to steal this basket, and the 
 brown as many in preventing the accomplishment of the 
 design. After some time had been spent in this manner, 
 those to whom the basket was intrusted, laying themselves 
 on the ground round it, pretended to fall asleep ; the other 
 party availed themselves of this opportunity, and carried off 
 their booty ; the servants awaking soon after, discovered 
 their loss, but made no search after the basket, and began to 
 dance with as much alacrity as before. 
 
 On Saturday, the 5th, some hogs and fowls, and several 
 large pieces of cloth, many of them from forty to sixty yards 
 in length, with a quantity of plantains and cocoa-nuts, were 
 sent to Captain Cook as a present from the king of the 
 neighbouring island of Bolabola, with a message to the effect 
 that he was then on the island, and intended waiting on the 
 captain. He, however, did not visit them according to his 
 promise, but sent three young women to demand something 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 55 
 
 in return for his present. After dinner they set out to visit 
 the king on shore, since he did not think proper to come on 
 board. As he had conquered Bolabola, and was the dread 
 of all the neighbouring islands, they were greatly surprised at 
 finding a poor feeble old dotard, half blind, and sinking under 
 the weight of age and infirmities. He received them without 
 that state or ceremony which they had hitherto met with 
 among the other chiefs. On the 9th, having stopped a leak, 
 and taken on board a fresh stock of provisions, they sailed 
 out of the harbour, and flattered themselves that the fowls 
 and hogs would be a sufficient supply for the voyage, but in 
 this they were disappointed, for the hogs could not be brought 
 to eat European grain, or any provender that the ship af- 
 forded, and they were under the necessity of killing them 
 immediately. The fowls also all died of a disease in the 
 head, with which they were seized soon after they had been ' 
 brought on board. ■ Being detained longer at Ulietea in 
 repairing the ship than they expected, they did not go Qn 
 shore at Bolabola, but after giving the general name of 
 "Society Islands" to the whole group, they pursued their 
 course, standing to the southward for an island to which they 
 were directed by Tupia, at about 100 leagues distant, which 
 they discovered on the 13th, and were informed by him that 
 it was called Ohiterea. On the 14th of August they stood in 
 for the land, and as they approached observed that the 
 Indians were armed with long lances. A number of them 
 were soon drawn together on the beach, and two jumped 
 into the water, endeavouring to gain the boat, but she soon 
 left them, and some others who had made the same attempt, 
 far behind. 
 
 Having doubled the point where they intended to land, 
 they saw another party of natives standing at the end of it, 
 armed like those whom they had seen before. Preparations 
 being made for landing, a canoe full of Indians came off 
 towards them. Tupia was desired to acquaint them that 
 the English did not intend to offer violence but meant to 
 traffic with them for nails, which were produced. Upon this 
 they came alongside the boat, and accepted some nails which 
 
5.6 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 were given them, appearing well pleased with the present. 
 In a few minutes, however, several of these people boarded 
 the boat, designing to drag her on shore ; but some muskets 
 being discharged over their heads, they leaped into the sea, 
 and having reached the canoe, joined their countrymen, who 
 stood ready to receive them. The boat pursued the fugitives, 
 but the crew finding the surf extremely violent, did not land, 
 but coasted along shore, to find a more convenient place. 
 After this it was proposed that the people of the Endeavour 
 should go on shore and trade with the natives if they would 
 lay aside their weapons ; but to this they would not agree 
 unless the English would do the same. As treachery was 
 anticipated, the proposal was not complied with ; and since 
 neither the bay which the Endeavour entered, nor any other 
 part of the island, furnished a good harbour or anchorage, 
 it was resolved to proceed to the southward. 
 
 On the 15th they sailed with a fine breeze, and on the 25th 
 celebrated the first anniversary of their leaving England. 
 A large Cheshire cheese, which had been preserved for this 
 festive occasion, was brought out, and a barrel of porter 
 tapped, which proved to be in sound condition. 
 
 Land was discovered on Thursday, the 7th of October, and 
 on the morning of the 8th* they came to an anchor opposite 
 the mouth of a small river, not above half a league from the 
 shore. Captain Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and some 
 others, went on shore in the evening, and proceeded to a few 
 small houses in the neighbourhood. Some of the natives, 
 who had concealed themselves, took advantage of their 
 absence from the boat, and rushed out, advancing and bran- 
 dishing their long wooden lances. The coxswain fired a 
 musket over their heads, but it did not appear to intimidate 
 them, in consequence of which he levelled his piece and shot 
 one of them dead on the spot. Struck with astonishment at 
 the death of their companion, they retreated to the woods 
 
 * This day Is memorable as that on which Captain Cook first landed in New 
 Zealand, the pioneer of thousands of his countrymen, who have made of these 
 islands a second Britain. The spot on the east coast on which he landed he 
 called Poverty Bay. 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 57 
 
 with great precipitation. The report of the gun brought the 
 advanced party back to the boats, and they returned imme- 
 diately to the ship. 
 
 On the 9th a great number of the natives were seen 
 near the place where the Englishmen landed the pre- 
 ceding evening, and the greater part of them appeared 
 to be unarmed. The long-boat, pinnace, and yawl being 
 manned with marines and sailors, Captain Cook, with 
 the rest of the gentlemen and Tupia, went on shore, and 
 landed on the opposite side of the river, over against a spot 
 where several Indians were sitting on the ground. They 
 immediately started up and began to handle their weapons, 
 each producing either a long pike, or a kind of truncheon made 
 of stone, with a string through the handle of it, which they 
 twisted round their wrists. Tupia was directed to speak to 
 them in his language ; and they were agroe^-bly surprised to 
 find that he was understood. Their intention at first ap- 
 peared to be hostile, brandishing their weapons in the usual 
 threatening manner ; upon which a musket was fired at some 
 distance from them, and the ball happening to fall into the 
 water they appeared terrified, and desisted from their me- 
 naces. Tupia informed them the English desired to traffic 
 with them for provisions, to which they consented, provided 
 the English crossed over to them to the other side of the 
 river. This was agreed to, upon condition that the natives 
 would quit their weapons ; but the most solemn assurances 
 of friendship could not prevail wilh them to comply. 
 Not thinking it prudent, therefore, to cross the river, 
 the English in turn entreated the Indians to come over to 
 them, and after some time one of them did so. He was 
 presently followed by several others. They did not value 
 the beads and iron that were offered in the way of barter, but 
 proposed to exchange weapons, which being objected to, 
 the Indians endeavoured to snatch the arms, but in this 
 attempt they were frustrated, and Tupia gave them to under- 
 stand that any further offers of violence would be punished 
 with instant death. One of them, nevertheless, had the 
 audacity to snatch Mr. Green's dagger when his back was 
 
58 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 turned to them, and retiring a few paces, flourished it over 
 his head ; but his temerity cost him dear, for Mr. Monkhouse 
 fired a musket loaded with ball, and shot him dead. Soon 
 after the natives retreated slowly inland, and the English 
 returned to their boats. This behaviour of the Indians, 
 added to the want of fresh water, induced Captain Cook to 
 continue his voyage round the bay, with a hope of inducing 
 some of the natives to come on board, so that by kind 
 treatment he might establish a good understanding with 
 them. An event occurred, which, though attended with dis- 
 agreeable circumstances, promised to facilitate this design. 
 Two canoes appeared, making towards land, and Captain 
 Cook proposed intercepting them with his boats. One of 
 them got clear off; but the Indians in the other, finding it 
 impossible to escape, began to attack them with their paddles. 
 This compelled the Endeavour's people to fire upon them, 
 when four of the Indians were killed, and the other three, 
 who were young men, jumped into the water and endeavoured 
 to swim to shore; they were, however, taken up and con- 
 veyed on board. At first they were greatly terrified, thinking 
 they should be killed ; but Tupia, by repeated assurances of 
 friendship, removed their apprehensions. Having retired to 
 rest in the evening, they slept very quietly. The next morning 
 preparations were made for sending them to their country- 
 men, at which they expressed great satisfaction ; but finding 
 the boat approaching Captain Cook's first landing-place, they 
 intimated that the inhabitants were foes. The captain, 
 nevertheless, judged it expedient to land near this spot, 
 resolving, at the same time, to protect the youths from any 
 injury that might be offered them. They had scarcely 
 departed on their return to their friends when two large 
 parties of Indians advanced hastily towards them, upon 
 which they again flew to the English for protection. When 
 the Indians drew near, one of the boys discovered his uncle 
 among them, and a conversation ensued across the river, in 
 which the boy gave a just account of our hospitality, and took 
 great pains to display his finery. After this the uncle swam 
 across the river, bringing with him a green bough, a token of 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE, 59 
 
 friendship, which was received as such, and several presents 
 were made him. The three youths, by their own desire, 
 returned to the ship ; but as the captain intended to sail the 
 next morning he sent them ashore in the evening, though 
 much against their inclination. 
 
 Captain Cook, on the nth, set sail in hopes of finding a 
 better anchoring-place, and in the afternoon the Endeaiwur 
 was becalmed. Several canoes, full of Indians, came off 
 from the shore, who received many presents, and bartered 
 their clothes and some of their paddles for European com- 
 modities. Having finished their traffic, they returned in such 
 a hurry, that they forgot three of their companions, who 
 remained on board all night. These testified their fears and 
 apprehensions, notwithstanding Tupia took great pains to 
 convince them that they were in no danger, and about seven 
 o'clock the next morning a canoe came off, with four Indians 
 on board. It was at first with difficulty the Indians in the 
 ship could prevail on those in the canoe to come near them^ 
 and not till after the former had assured them that the English 
 did not eat men. 
 
 On the 1 2th several Indians came off in a canoe; they 
 were disfigured in a strange manner, danced and sang, and 
 at times appeared peaceably inclined, but at others, to 
 menace hostilities. Notwithstanding Tupia earnestly invited 
 them to come on board, none of them would quit the canoe. 
 Whilst the Endeavour was getting clear of the shoals, five 
 canoes, full of Indians, came off, and seemed to threaten the 
 people on board by brandishing their lances, and other 
 hostile gestures. A 4-pounder, loaded with grape-shot, was 
 therefore fired over their heads, which made them drop 
 astern. Two more canoes came off whilst the Endeavour 
 lay at anchor, but the Indians behaved very peaceably, 
 and received several presents, but would not come on 
 board. 
 
 On Friday, the 1 3th, they pursued their course. The next 
 morning they had a view of the inland country. Nine canoes, 
 full of Indians, came off from the shore, and five of them, 
 after having consulted together, pursued the Endeavour, 
 
6o COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 apparently with a hostile design. Tupia was desired to 
 acquaint them that immediate destruction would ensue if 
 they persevered in their attempts; but words had no influence, 
 and a 4-pounder, with grape-shot, was fired to give them 
 some notion of the arms of their opponents. They were 
 terrified at this kind of reasoning, and paddled hastily away. 
 Tupia then hailed the fugitives, and acquainted them that if 
 they came in a peaceable manner, and left their arms behind, 
 no annoyance would be offered them, upon which one of the 
 canoes, submitting to the terms, came alongside the ship, and 
 received many presents. 
 
 On the 15th, in the afternoon, a canoe with a number of 
 armed Indians came up, and one of them, who was clothed 
 with a black skin, found means to defraud the captain of a 
 piece of red baize, under pretence of bartering the skin for it. 
 As soon as he had got the baize into his possession, instead 
 of giving the skin in return agreeable to his bargain, he rolled 
 them together and ordered the canoe to put off from the ship, 
 turning a deaf ear to the repeated remonstrances of the captain. 
 After a short time, this canoe, together with the fishing-boats 
 which had put off at the same time, came back to the ship, and 
 trade was again began. During this second traffic with the 
 Indians, one of them unexpectedly seized Tupia's little boy, 
 Taiyota, and pulling him into his canoe, instantly put off 
 and paddled away with the utmost speed ; several muskets 
 were immediately fired at them, and one of them receiving a 
 wound, they let go the boy, who before was held down in the 
 bottom of the canoe. Taiyota, taking advantage of their 
 consternation, immediately jumped into the sea and swam 
 back towards the Endeavour. He was taken on board 
 without receiving any harm, but his strength was so much 
 exhausted with the weight of his clothes, that it was with 
 great dif^culty he reached the ship. In consequence of this 
 attempt to carry off Taiyota, Captain Cook called the cape 
 off which it happened. Cape Kidnappers. 
 
 The Endeavour now passed a small island, which was 
 named Bare Island. On the 17th Captain Cook gave the 
 name of Cape Turnagain to a headland, and on the 19th 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE, 6i 
 
 named a peculiar-looking cape, Gable end Foreland. On 
 Friday, the 20th, they anchored in a bay about two leagues 
 further to the northward, to which they were invited by some 
 natives in canoes, who behaved very amicably, and pointed 
 to a place where they said they would find plenty of fresh 
 water. Two chiefs came on board ; they were dressed in 
 jackets, the one ornamented with tufts of red feathers, the 
 other with dog-skin. They were presented with linen and 
 some spike-nails, though they did not value the last so much 
 as the inhabitants of the other islands. The rest of the 
 Indians traded without the least attempt at imposition, and 
 Tupia was directed to acquaint them with the views of the 
 English in coming hither, and promised that they should 
 receive no injury if they offered none. In the afternoon 
 the chiefs returned, and towards evening the captain, Dr. 
 Solander, and Mr. Banks went on shore. They were cour- 
 teously received by the inhabitants, who did not appear in 
 numerous bodies, and in many instances were scrupulously 
 attentive not to give offence. They made an agreeable tour 
 round the bay, and had the pleasure of finding two streams 
 of fresh water. They remained on shore all night, and the 
 next day Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander discovered several 
 birds, among which were quails and large pigeons. Many 
 stages for drying fish were observed, and some houses with 
 fences. They saw dogs with pointed ears, and very ugly. 
 Sweet potatoes were found also. The cloth-plant grew wild. 
 In the neighbouring valleys the lands were laid out in 
 regular plantations ; and in the bay they caught plenty of 
 crabs, cray-fish, and horse-mackerel, larger than those upon 
 the English coasts. 
 
 The women paint their faces with a mixture of red ochre 
 and oil, which, as they were very plain, rendered them even 
 less prepossessing. The faces of the men were not in general 
 painted, but they were daubed with dry red ochre from head 
 to foot, their apparel not excepted. Though in personal 
 cleanliness they were inferior to those of Otaheite, yet in 
 some particulars they surpassed them. 
 
 On the evening of Sunday, the 22nd, they weighed anchor 
 
62 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 and put to sea, but the wind being contrary, they stood for 
 another bay a little to the south. They found a watering- 
 place in a small cove a little within the south point of the 
 bay, distant about a mile. 
 
 On Monday, the 23rd, in the afternoon, they went on shore, 
 and found the water extremely good, also plenty of wood ; 
 and the natives showed them much civility. In a valley 
 between two very high hills, they saw a curious rock that 
 formed a large arch. This cavern was 70 feet in length, 30 
 in breadth, and nearly 50 in height, and commanded a view 
 of the bay and the hills on the other side. 
 
 On their return they met an old man, who entertained 
 them with the military exercise of the natives, which he per- 
 formed with the patoo-patoo and the lance. The former is 
 used as a battle-axe ; and the latter is 18 or 20 feet in length, 
 made of hard wood, and sharpened at each end. A stake 
 was substituted for a supposed enemy. The old warrior first 
 attacked him with his lance, advancing with a most furious 
 aspect. Having pierced him, the patoo-patoo was used to 
 demolish his head, at which he struck with a force which 
 would at one blow have split any man's skull. At the water- 
 ing-place the Indians sang their war-song, which was a 
 strange medley of sighing, shouting, and grimace, at which 
 the women assisted. The next day Captain Cook and other 
 gentlemen went upon an island at the entrance of the bay 
 and met with a canoe which was 67 feet in length, 6 in 
 breadth, and 4 in height ; her bottom, which was sharp, 
 consisted of three trunks of trees, and the sides and head 
 were curiously carved. 
 
 They also came to a large unfinished house ; the posts 
 which supported it were ornamented with carvings that did 
 not appear to have been done upon the spot, though the 
 people seemed to have a taste for carving, as their boats, 
 paddles, and the tops of walking-sticks evinced. Their 
 favourite figure is a volute or spiral, which is sometimes 
 single, double, or triple, and is done with great exactness, 
 though the only instruments were an axe, made of stone, 
 and a chisel. Their taste is extremely whimsical and ex- 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE, 63 
 
 travagant, scarcely ever imitating nature. Their huts are 
 built under trees, in the form of an oblong square ; the door 
 low on the side, with the windows at the ends. Reeds 
 covered with thatch compose the walls, the beams of the 
 eaves, which come to the ground, being also covered with 
 thatch. 
 
 On the 29th of October the Endeavour quitted the bay, and 
 saiHng to the northward, came to a small island about a mile 
 distant from the north-east point of the mainland ; and this 
 being the most eastern part of it, the captain named it East 
 Cape, and the island East Island. Continuing under sail, they 
 came to an island which he named White Island. On the 
 1st of November forty canoes came off as before, threatening 
 to attack the Endeavour. One of their chiefs flourished his 
 pike and made several harangues, seeming to bid defiance to 
 those on board the vessel. At last, after repeated invitations, 
 they came close alongside ; but instead of showing a dis- 
 position to trade, the haranguing chief took up a stone, which 
 he threw against the ship, and they immediately after seized 
 their arms. They were informed by Tupia of the dreadful 
 consequences of commencing hostilities, but this admonition 
 remained unheeded. A piece of cloth, however, happening 
 to attract their eyes, they began to be more mild and reason- 
 able. A quantity of cray-fish, muscles, and conger-eels were 
 now purchased. No fraud was attempted by this company 
 of Indians, but some others that came after them took goods 
 from the vessel without making proper returns. As one of 
 them, who had rendered himself remarkable for these prac- 
 tices, and seemed proud of his skill in them, was putting off 
 with his canoe, a musket was fired over his head, which cir- 
 cumstance produced good order for the present; yet when 
 they began to traffic with the sailors they renewed their 
 frauds, and one of them was bold enough to seize some linen 
 that was hung to dry, and run away with it. In order to 
 induce him to return, a musket was fired over his head, but 
 this not answering the end, he was shot in the back with 
 small shot, yet he still persevered in his design. This 
 being perceived by his countrymen, they dropped astern 
 
64 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 and set up the song of defiance. In consequence of their 
 behaviour, though they made no preparations to attack the 
 vessel, the captain gave orders to fire a 4-pounder, and 
 its effects on the water so terrified them that they retreated 
 with precipitation. 
 
 On the 4th, at daybreak, no less than twelve canoes made 
 their appearance, containing nearly 200 men, armed with 
 spears, lances, and stones, who seemed determined to attack 
 the ship, and would have boarded her had they known 
 which quarter was most suitable for attack. While they were 
 paddling round her, the crew meantime being on the watch 
 in the rain, Tupia, at the request of the captain, used a 
 number of dissuasive arguments, to prevent their carrying 
 their designs into execution ; but nothing could pacify them 
 till some muskets were fired. They then laid aside their 
 hostile intentions, and began to trade ; yet they could not 
 refrain from their fraudulent practices, for, after they had fairly 
 bartered two of their weapons, they would not deliver up a 
 third, for which they had received cloth, and only laughed at 
 those who demanded an equivalent. The offender was 
 wounded with small shot, but his countrymen took not the 
 least notice of him, and continued to trade without any dis- 
 composure. 
 
 On the morning of the 5th the Indians came off to the 
 ship again, and behaved much better than they had done the 
 preceding day. An old man in particular, named Tojava, 
 informed them that they were often visited by freebooters 
 from the north, who stripped them of all that they could lay 
 their hands on, and at times made captives of their wives and 
 children, and that, being ignorant who the English were after 
 their first arrival, the natives had been much alarmed, but 
 were now satisfied of their good intentions. He added that, 
 for their security against those plunderers, their houses were 
 built contiguous to the tops of the rocks, where they could 
 better defend themselves. Having despatched the long-boat 
 and pinnace into the bay to haul and dredge for fish with 
 little success, the Indians testified their friendship, and 
 brought for sale great quantities of fish dressed and dried ; 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 65 
 
 they also supplied them with wood and good water. While 
 the English were out with their guns, the people who stayed 
 by the boats saw two of the natives fight. The battle was 
 begun with their lances, but some old men taking these away, 
 they were obliged to decide the quarrel, like Englishmen, with 
 their fists. 
 
 On the 9th the Indians brought a prodigious quantity of 
 mackerel, which they sold at a low rate, and the cargoes 
 purchased were so great that the ship's company cured as 
 many as would serve for a month's provision. 
 
 This being a clear day, Mr. Green, the astronomer, landed 
 with some of the gentlemen to observe the transit of Mercury. 
 The observation of the -ingress was made by Mr. Green 
 alone, and Captain Cook took the sun's altitude to ascertain 
 the time. While the observation was making, a canoe, with 
 various commodities on board, came alongside the ship, 
 and Mr. Gore, the officer who had then the command, being 
 desirous of encouraging them to traffic, produced a piece of 
 Otaheitean cloth, of more value than any they had yet seen, 
 which was immediately seized by one of the Indians, who 
 obstinately refused either to return it or give anything in 
 exchange. He paid dearly, however, for his temerity, being 
 shot dead on the spot. His death alarmed all the rest ; they 
 fled with great precipitancy, and could not be induced to 
 renew their traffic. But when the Indians on shore had 
 heard the particulars related by Tojava, who greatly con- 
 demned the conduct of the deceased, they seemed to think 
 that he merited his fate. 
 
 The weather being favourable, the transit of Mercury was 
 viewed without a cloud intervening. In consequence of this 
 observation being made here, this bay was called Mercury 
 Bay. 
 
 The Indians sup before sunset, when they eat fish and 
 birds, baked or roasted on a stick planted in the ground near 
 the fire. A female mourner was present at one of their 
 suppers. She sat on the ground and wept incessantly, at the 
 same time repeating some sentences in a doleful manner, but 
 which Tupia could not explain. At the termination of each 
 
 E 
 
66 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 period she cut herself with a shell upon her breast, her 
 hands, or her face. Notwithstanding this spectacle greatly 
 affected the gentlemen, all the Indians who sat by her, 
 except one, were quite unmoved. 
 
 Abundance of oysters were procured from a bed which 
 had been discovered, and they proved exceedingly good. 
 Next day the ship was visited by two canoes, who bartered 
 with honesty. Captain Cook sailed from this island, having, 
 on the 1 5th of November, taken possession of it in the name 
 of his sovereign. 
 
 On the morning of the i8th the Endeavour steered between 
 the mainland and an island, which seemed very fertile, and 
 as extensive as Ulietea. Several canoes, filled with Indians, 
 came alongside, and they sang their war-song, but the 
 Endeavour's people paying them no attention, they threw 
 a volley of stones and then paddled away ; however, they 
 presently returned and renewed their insults. Tupia spoke 
 to them, but they answered by brandishing their weapons, 
 intimating that they would destroy them all. The Endeavotir 
 cast anchor in the evening, and early the next morning sailed 
 up an inlet. Soon after the canoes paddled off, and some 
 of the Indians came on board. They knew Tojava, and 
 called Tupia by his name. Having received some presents 
 they returned peaceably, and apparently highly gratified. 
 
 On Monday, the 20th, after having run five leagues, they 
 came to anchor in a bay called by the natives Ooahaouragee, 
 which Captain Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and others, 
 set off in the pinnace to examine. They landed on the 
 west side to inspect the lofty trees that- adorned its banks ; 
 at the entrance of a wood they met with a tree 98 feet high 
 from the ground, quite straight, and 19 feet in circumference; 
 and as they advanced they found others still larger. Captain 
 Cook gave to this river the name of Thames, it having a 
 resemblance to the river of that name in England. 
 
 They made sail early on the 22nd, and kept under weigh 
 till the flood obliged them once more to come to an anchor. 
 The captain and Dr. Solander went on shore to the west, but 
 made no obsex*vations worth relating. After these gentlemen 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 67 
 
 departed, the ship was surrounded with canoes, and Mr. 
 Banks remained on board, that he might trade with the 
 Indians, who bartered their arms and clothes for paper ; but 
 though they were in general honest in their dealings, one of 
 them took a fancy to a half-minute glass, and being detected 
 in secreting it, he was punished with the cat-o'-nine tails. The 
 Indians attempted to interfere, and they got their arms from 
 their canoes, but being informed of the nature of the intended 
 punishment, they appeared satisfied, and the criminal not 
 only received a dozen, but afterwards a good drubbing from 
 an old man who was thought to be his father. On the 24th 
 they kept steering along the shore, anchoring between the 
 tides. No inhabitants were visible, but from the fires per- 
 ceived at night, it was concluded to be inhabited. 
 
 On the 26th, towards night, seven large canoes paddled 
 off with about 200 men, some of whom came on board. 
 These were followed by two larger canoes, adorned with 
 carving. The Indians, after holding a conference, came along- 
 side the vessel. They were armed with various weapons, and 
 seemed to be of the higher order. Their patoo-patoos were 
 made of stone and whalebone, ornamented with dogs' hair, 
 and were held in high estimation. 
 
 On the 29th, having weathered a point of land which the 
 captain named Cape Brett, they bore away to leeward, and 
 got into a large bay, where they anchored on the south-west 
 side of several islands, and the ship was soon surrounded by 
 thirty-three large canoes, containing nearly 300 Indians, 
 all armed. Some of them were admitted on board, and 
 Captain Cook gave a piece of broadcloth to one of "the 
 chiefs and some small presents to the others. They traded 
 peaceably for some time, being terrified at the firearms, with 
 the effects of which they were not unacquainted ; but whilst 
 the captain was at dinner, on a signal given by one of the 
 chiefs, all the Indians quitted the ship and attempted to tow 
 away the buoy. A musket was first fired over them, but 
 without effect, and then small shot was fired at them, but it 
 fell short. A musket, loaded with ball, was therefore ordered 
 to be fired, and a son of the chief was wounded in the thigh 
 
68 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 by it, which induced them immediately to throw the buoy 
 overboard. To complete their confusion, a round shot was 
 fired which reached the shore, and as soon as they landed 
 they ran to search for it. If they had been under any kind 
 of discipline they might have proved a formidable enemy. 
 
 Captain Cook, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander landed in a 
 small cove in the island, and were presently surrounded by 
 nearly 400 armed Indians ; but the captain not suspecting any 
 hostile design on the part of the natives, remained peaceably 
 disposed. The Englishmen marching towards them, drew a 
 line, intimating that they were not to pass it. They did not 
 infringe upon this boundary for some time ; but at length 
 they sang the song of defiance, and began to dance, whilst a 
 party endeavoured to drag the Endeavour's boat on shore ; 
 these signals fgr an attack being followed by the Indians 
 breaking in upon the line, the gentlemen judged it time to 
 defend themselves, and accordingly the captain fired his 
 musket, loaded with small shot, which was seconded by Mr. 
 Banks discharging his piece, and two of the men followed 
 his example. This threw the Indians into confusion, and 
 they retreated, but were rallied again by one of their chiefs, 
 who shouted and waved his patoo-patoo. The doctor now 
 pointed his musket at this hero, and hit him, when he took 
 flight with the other Indians. They were now at too great a 
 distance for a ball to reach them ; but these operations being 
 observed from the ship, she brought her broadside to bear, 
 and by firing over them soon dispersed them. The Indians 
 had in this skirmish two of their people wounded, but none 
 killed. Peace being again restored, the gentlemen began to 
 gather celery and other herbs, but suspecting that some of 
 the natives were lurking about with evil designs, they repaired 
 to a cave, where they found the chief who had that day 
 received a present from the captain. He came forth with 
 his wife and brother, and solicited their clemency. It 
 appeared that one of the wounded Indians was a brother to 
 this chief, who was under great anxiety lest the wound should 
 prove mortal ; but his grief was in a great degree alleviated, 
 when he was made acquainted with the different effects of 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE, 69 
 
 small shot and ball ; and he was also assured that upon any 
 further hostilities being committed, ball would be used. 
 This interview terminated very cordially, after some trifling 
 presents were made to the chief and his companions. 
 
 Being again in their boats, they rowed to another part of 
 the island, when landing, and gaining an eminence, they had 
 a very agreeable and romantic view of a great number of 
 small islands, well inhabited and cultivated. The inhabitants 
 of an adjacent village approached unarmed, and testified 
 great humility and submission. Some of the seamen on 
 shore, having forced their way into some of the plantations, 
 and dug up potatoes, the captain showed strict justice in 
 punishing each offender with lashes ; one of them being 
 refractory upon this occasion, and complaining of the hard- 
 ship of an Englishman being flogged for plundering an 
 Indian, received six additional lashes. 
 
 On Tuesday, the 5th of December, they weighed anchor, 
 but were soon becalmed, and a strong current setting towards 
 the shore, were driven in with such rapidity, that they ex- 
 pected every moment to run upon breakers, which appeared 
 above water not more than a cable's length distance. Indeed, 
 they were so near the land that Tupia, who was totally 
 ignorant of the danger, held a conversation with the Indians, 
 who were standing on the beach. They were happily re- 
 lieved, however, from this alarming situation by a fresh 
 breeze suddenly springing up from the shore. 
 
 On the 7th, several canoes put off and followed the 
 Endeavour^ but a light breeze springing up they did not 
 wait for them. On the 17th they came off the northern 
 extremity of New Zealand, which Captain Cook named 
 North Cape. On the 27th it blew a gale from the east, 
 accompanied with heavy showers of rain, which compelled 
 them to bring the ship to, under her mainsail. The gale 
 continued till the 28th, when it fell about two o'clock in the 
 morning, but at eight increased to a hurricane, with a pro- 
 digious sea : at noon the gale somewhat abated, but with 
 heavy squalls. 
 
 January the ist, 1770, at six in the morning, they tacked 
 
70 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 and stood to the eastward, and on the 3rd they saw land, 
 trending away to the south-east, beyond the reach of the 
 naked eye. It is remarkable that the Endeavour was three 
 weeks in making ten leagues to the westward, and five 
 weeks in getting fifty leagues, the distance they were now 
 from Cape Brett. 
 
 On the 9th they saw high land to the east-north-east, 
 which the captain named Albatross Point. At about two 
 leagues distance from this point, to the north-east, they 
 discovered a remarkable high mountain, equal in height to 
 that of Teneriffe. Its summit was covered with snow, and it 
 was named Mount Egmont. At this place Captain Cook 
 proposed to careen the ship, and also to take in a fresh 
 supply of wood and water ; accordingly, on the 15th, at day- 
 break, they steered for an inlet, when, it being almost a calm, 
 the ship was carried by a current or the tide within a cable's 
 length of the shore, but she got clear by the assistance of the 
 boats. At two they anchored in a safe cove on the north-^ 
 west side of the bay, and moored in eleven fathoms of water, 
 with a soft bottom. Four canoes came off for the purpose, 
 as we imagined, of reconnoitering ; for none of the Indians 
 would venture on board except an old man, who seemed of 
 elevated rank. His countrymen expostulated with him, laid 
 hold of him, and took great pains to prevent his coming on 
 board, but they could not divert him from his purpose. He 
 was received with the utmost hospitality. Tupia and the old 
 man joined noses, according to the custom of the country, 
 and having received several presents, he returned to his 
 associates, who began to dance and laugh, and then retired 
 to their fortified village. 
 
 Captain Cook and other gentlemen now went on shore, 
 where they met with plenty of wood, and a fine stream of 
 excellent water, and on hauling the seine were very success- 
 ful, having caught three hundredweight of fish in a short 
 time. 
 
 On the 1 6th the crew were employed in careening the ship, 
 when three canoes came off, with a number of Indians, and 
 brought several of their women with them, a circumstance 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE, 71 
 
 which was thought to be a favourable presage of their peace- 
 able disposition ; but they soon gave proofs to the contrary 
 by attempting to stop the long-boat, when Captain Cook had 
 recourse to the old expedient of firing shot over their heads, 
 which intimidated them for the present. Tupia asked them 
 if they had ever before seen a ship so large as the E?tdeavour, 
 to which they replied in the negative; nor had they heard 
 that such a vessel had ever been on their coast. The inhabi- 
 tants catch their fish, which are plentiful here, in cylindrical 
 nets, extended by several hoops at the bottom and contracted 
 at the top. The fish going in to feed upon the bait are caught 
 in great abundance. There are also birds of various kinds, 
 and in great numbers. 
 
 Captain Cook,. Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander visited another 
 cove, about two miles from the ship. They found here a 
 family of Indians, who appeared greatly alarmed at their 
 approach ; these people were cannibals, there being several 
 human bones that had lately been dressed and picked. They 
 made no secret of this abominable custom, but, with great 
 composure, answered Tupia, who was desired to ascertain 
 the fact, that his conjectures were just, that they were the 
 bones of a man, and testified by signs that they thought 
 human flesh delicious food. There was a woman in this 
 family whose arms and legs were cut in a shocking manner, 
 and it appeared that she had thus wounded herself because 
 her husband had lately been killed and eaten by the enemy. 
 
 Some of the Indians brought four skulls one day to sell, 
 which they rated at a very high price. They seemed to pride 
 themselves upon their cruelty and barbarity, and took a 
 particular pleasure in showing the manner in which they 
 killed their enemies. This was done by first knocking them 
 down with their patoo-patoos, and then ripping up their 
 bellies. 
 
 On the 20th, in the morning, Mr. Banks purchased of the 
 old Indian a man's head, which he seemed very unwilling to 
 part with. The skull had been fractured by a blow, and the 
 brains were extracted, and, like the others, it was preserved 
 from putrefaction. From the care with which they kept 
 
72 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 these skulls, and the reluctance with which they bartered any, 
 they were considered as trophies of war and testimonials of 
 their valour. Some of the ship's company, in their excursions, 
 met with fortifications that had not the advantage of an 
 elevated situation, but were surrounded by two or three wide 
 ditches, with a drawbridge, such as, though simple in its 
 construction, would answer every purpose against the arms 
 of the natives. Within these ditches is a fence made with 
 stakes fixed in the earth. 
 
 On the 24th they visited a hippah, or fort, which was 
 situated on a very high rock, hollow underneath, forming a 
 very fine natural arch, one side of which joined the land and 
 the other rose out of the sea. The inhabitants received them 
 with great civility, and very readily showed everything that 
 was curious. 
 
 On the 25th the captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander 
 went on shore to shoot, when they met with a numerous 
 family, who were among the creeks catching fish : they be- 
 haved very civilly, and received some trifling presents from 
 the gentlemen, who were loaded, by way of return, with the 
 kisses and embraces of both sexes, young and olH. The 
 next day, being the 26th, they made another excursion, in 
 order to survey, from the summit of a hill, the strait which 
 passes between the eastern and western seas. Before their 
 departure from this hill they erected a pyramid of stones, 
 and left some musket-balls, small shot, and beads, as me- 
 morials that this place had been visited by Europeans. On 
 the 27th and 28th they were engaged in making necessary 
 repairs, catching fish, and refitting the Endeavour for her 
 voyage. 
 
 On Tuesday, the 30th, some of the people who were sent 
 out early in the morning to gather celery, met with about 
 twenty Indians, among whom were five or six women, 
 whose husbands had lately been made captives. They sat 
 down upon the ground together and cut many parts, of their 
 bodies in a most shocking manner with shells and sharp 
 stones, in testimony of their excessive grief. In the mean- 
 time their male companions paid not the least attention to 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE, 7^ 
 
 them, but with the greatest unconcern imaginable employed 
 themselves in repairing their huts. 
 
 The carpenter having prepared two posts, they were set up 
 as memorials, being inscribed with the date of the year, and 
 the month, and the ship's name. One of them was erected 
 at the watering-place, with the union jack hoisted at the 
 top, and the other in the island that lies nearest the sea, 
 called by the natives Motuara ; and the inhabitants being 
 informed that these posts were set up to acquaint other ad- 
 venturers that the Endeavour had touched this place, they 
 promised never to destroy them. Captain Cook named this 
 inlet Queen Charlotte's Sound, and took possession of it in 
 the name of his sovereign. 
 
 On the 5th of February they got under weigh, but the wind 
 soon falling, came to anchor a little above Motuara. 
 
 On the following morning the Endeavour sailed out of 
 the bay, which, from the savage custom of eating human 
 flesh common to its people, the ship's company called 
 Cannibal Bay. The inhabitants, who number about 400, are 
 scattered along the coast, and upon any appearance of danger 
 retire to their hippahs, or forts. They are poor, and their 
 canoes are without ornaments. The traffic with them was 
 wholly for fish ; but they had some knowledge of iron, which 
 the natives of other parts had not. 
 
 The Endeavour stood over to the eastward, and was carried 
 by the current close to one of the islands at the entrance of 
 Queen Charlotte's Sound. They were every moment in 
 danger of being dashed to pieces against the rock, but after 
 having veered out 1 50 fathoms of cable, the ship was brought 
 up, when the rocks were not more than two cables' length 
 distant. In this situation they remained, being obliged to 
 wait for the tide's ebbing, which did not take place till after 
 midnight. 
 
 On the 7th, at eight o'clock in the morning, they weighed 
 anchor, and a fresh breeze, with an ebb tide, quickly bore 
 them through the strait. 
 
 The next morning they were off Cape Palliser, and found 
 that the land stretched away to the north-eastward of Cape 
 
74 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 Turnagain. In the afternoon three canoes, ornamented Hke 
 those on the northern coast, put off from the shore. There 
 was no difficulty in persuading the Indians to come on board, 
 and they demeaned themselves very civilly, a mutual ex- 
 change of presents taking place. Their dress resembled that 
 of the natives of Hudson's Bay. One old man was tattooed in 
 a very peculiar manner, and had likewise a red streak across 
 his nose, while his hair and beard were remarkable for their 
 whiteness. His upper garment was made of flax, and had a 
 wrought border, and underneath he wore a sort of cloth 
 petticoat. Teeth and green stones decorated his ears, and it 
 was concluded, from his deportment, that he was a person of 
 distinguished rank among his countrymen. 
 
 On the 14th about sixty Indians, in four double canoes, 
 came within a stone's throw of the ship. As they surveyed 
 her with surprise, Tupia endeavoured to persuade them to 
 come nearer, but this they could not be prevailed upon to 
 do. On this account the place was denominated the island 
 of Lookers-on. 
 
 On the 4th of March several whales and seals were seen. 
 On the 9th they saw a ledge of rocks, and soon after another 
 ledge, at three leagues' distance from the shore, which they 
 passed in the night to the northward, and at daybreak 
 observed the others under the bows. Proceeding north- 
 ward, the next day they fell in with a barren rock, about 
 fifteen miles from the mainland, of great height, and appa- 
 rently about a mile in circumference ; this was named 
 Solander^s Island. 
 
 On the 13th they discovered a bay, containing several 
 islands, where, if there was depth of water, shipping might 
 find shelter from all winds. Dusky Bay was the appellation 
 given to it by the captain, and five high-peaked rocks, for which 
 it was remarkable, gave to a point the name of Five Fingers. 
 They had now passed the whole north-west coast of Tovy 
 Poenamoo, which had nothing worthy of observation but a 
 ridge of naked and barren rocks covered with snow. As far 
 as the eye could reach the prospect was wild, craggy, and 
 desolate. Having sailed round the whole of this inhospitable 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE, 75 
 
 shore by the 27th, Captain Cook determined to depart. He 
 accordingly went on shore in the long-boat, and having 
 found a place suitable for mooring the ship, and a good 
 watering-place, the crew began to fill their casks, while the 
 carpenter was employed in cutting wood. The captain, Mr. 
 Banks, and Dr. Solander went in the pinnace to examine 
 the bay and the neighbouring country. Landing there, they 
 found several plants of a species which was before unknown 
 to them. No inhabitants appeared, but they saw several 
 huts, which seemed to have been long deserted. Sufficient 
 wood and water having been taken on board, the vessel was 
 ready to sail by the time that they returned in the evening, 
 and it was resolved to steer for the coast of New Holland, 
 and return by the way of the East Indies. 
 
 On the 31st March they took their departure from an 
 eastern point they named Cape Farewell ; the bay from which 
 they sailed was called Admiralty Bay, and the two capes. 
 Cape Stephens and Cape Jackson, after the two secretaries 
 of the Board of Admiralty. They called a bay between the 
 island and Cape Farewell, Blind Bay, which was supposed 
 to have been the same that was called Murderer's Bay by 
 Abel Jansen Tasman, who first discovered New Zealand in 
 December, 1642; but though he named it Staten Island, 
 wishing to take possession of it for the States-General, yet, 
 being attacked by the Indians, he never went on shore to 
 effect his purpose. The coast, being now more accurately 
 examined, was discovered to consist of two islands (now 
 known as New Zealand), which were before thought to be a 
 part of the southern continent so much sought for. They 
 are situated between the 34th and 48th degrees of south 
 latitude, and between the 181 st and 194th degrees of west 
 longitude. The northern island is called by the natives 
 Eahienomauwee, and the southern island, Tovy Poenamoo. 
 The former, though mountainous in some places, is well 
 wooded, and in every valley there is a rivulet. The soil in 
 those valleys is light but fertile, and well adapted for the 
 plentiful production of all fruits, plants, and corn of Europe. 
 
 The sea that washes these islands abounds with delicate 
 
76 COOICS VOYAGES. 
 
 and wholesome fish. Wherever the vessel came to anchor, 
 enough were caught with hook and line only to supply the 
 whole ship's company ; and when they fished with nets, 
 every man in the ship salted as much as supplied him for 
 several weeks. There were many sorts of fish here which 
 they had never before seen, and which the sailors named 
 according to their fancies. 
 
 About 400 species of plants were found, all of which are 
 unknown in England, except garden nightshade, sow thistle, 
 two or three kinds of ferns, and one or two sorts of grass. 
 They found wild celery and a kind of cress in great abund- 
 ance on the seashore ; and of eatable plants, raised by culti- 
 vation only, cocoas, yams, and sweet potatoes, of which there 
 were large plantations. 
 
 There is only one shrub or tree which produces fruit, a 
 kind of almost tasteless berry ; but there grows on the islands 
 a plant which answers all the uses of hemp and flax. There 
 are two kinds of this plant, the leaves of one of which are 
 yellow and the other a deep red, and both resembling the 
 leaves of flags. Of these the natives make lines and cordage 
 much stronger than anything of the kind in Europe. They 
 likewise split these leaves into breadths, and by tying slips 
 together form their fishing-nets. Their common apparel, 
 by a simple process, is also made from them, and their finer, 
 by another preparation, is made from the fibres. 
 
 The natives are as large as the finest races of Europe. 
 Their complexions are brown, but little more so than that of 
 a Spaniard, and they are stout and well-shaped. As the 
 dress of both sexes is similar, the voice chiefly distinguishes 
 the women from the men. The latter are active in a high 
 degree ; their hair is black and their teeth white and even. 
 They appear to be of a gentle disposition, and treat each other 
 with the utmost kindness ; but they are perpetually at war, 
 every little district being at enmity with the rest. Notwith- 
 standing the custom of eating their enemies, the circum- 
 stances and temper of these people is in favour of those who 
 might wish to become settlers. 
 
 These Indians anoint their hair with oil melted from 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE, J7 
 
 the fat of fish or birds. The poorer people use that 
 which is rancid, so that they have a very disagreeable 
 smell ; but those of superior rank use fresh oil. They 
 have combs made of bone and wood, which are considered 
 as an ornament when stuck upright in the hair. The men 
 tie their hair in a bunch on the crown of the head, and 
 adorn it with the feathers of birds, which they also some- 
 times place on each side of the temples. The hair of 
 the women is worn either flowing over the shoulders or 
 cut short. 
 
 Both sexes, but the men more frequently, mark their 
 bodies with black stains, called amoco. In general the 
 women only stain the lips, but sometimes mark other parts 
 with black patches. The men, on the contrary, put on 
 additional marks from year to year, so that the bodies of 
 those who are very old are almost covered. Exclusive of 
 the amoco, they mark themselves with furrows. These 
 furrows make a hideous appearance, the edges being in- 
 dented and the whole quite black. The ornaments of the 
 face are drawn in the spiral form, both cheeks being marked 
 exactly alike, while the paintings on their bodies resemble 
 fiHgree work and the foliage in old chased ornaments ; but 
 no two faces or bodies are painted exactly after the same 
 model. The people of New Zealand likewise paint their 
 bodies, by rubbing them with red ochre, either dry or mixed 
 with oil. Their dress is formed of the leaves of the flags, 
 split into slips, which are interwoven and made into a kind 
 of matting, the ends, which are seven or eight inches in 
 length, hanging out on the upper side. One piece of this 
 matting, being tied over the shoulders, reaches to the knees ; 
 the other piece, wrapped round the waist, falls almost to 
 the ground. The men wear the lower garment only at 
 particular times. 
 
 They have two kinds of cloth besides the coarse matting 
 or shag above mentioned, one of which is as coarse, but 
 beyond all comparison stronger than the English canvas; 
 the other, which is formed of the fibres of the plant, 
 drawn into threads, which cross and bind each other, 
 
78 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 resembles the matting on which our dishes are placed at 
 table. 
 
 They have a few dresses ornamented with feathers, and 
 one man was seen covered wholly with those of the red 
 parrot. 
 
 The women never tie their hair on the top of their heads, 
 nor adorn it with feathers, and are less anxious about dress 
 than the men; their lower garment is bound tight round 
 them, except when they go out fishing, and then they are 
 careful that the men shall not see them. 
 
 The ears of both sexes are bored, and the holes stretched 
 so as to admit a man's finger. The ornaments of their 
 ears are feathers, cloth, bones, and sometimes bits of wood ; 
 a great many of them made use of the nails given them by 
 the English for this purpose; and the women sometimes 
 adorn their ears with the white down of the albatross. They 
 likewise suspend to their ears chisels, bodkins, the teeth of 
 dogs, and the teeth and nails of their deceased friends. The 
 arms and ankles of the women are adorned with shells and 
 bones, or anything else through which they can pass a string. 
 The men wear slung round the neck, by a string, a piece of 
 green talc or whalebone, with the representation of a man 
 carved on it. One man had the gristle of his nose perforated, 
 and a feather passing through it projected over each cheek. 
 
 These people show less ingenuity in the structure of their 
 houses than in anything else belonging to them. They are 
 from i6 to 24 feet long, 10 or 12 wide, and 6 or 8 in height. 
 The frame is of light sticks of wood, and the walls and roof 
 are made of dry grass, firmly knit together. Some of them 
 are lined with the bark of trees, and the ridge of the house is 
 formed by a pole, which runs from one end to the other. The 
 door is only high enough to admit a person crawling on his 
 hands and knees, and the roof is sloping. There is a square 
 hole near the door, serving both for window and chimney, 
 near which is the fireplace. A plank is placed over the door, 
 adorned with a sort of carving, and this they consider as an 
 ornamental piece of furniture. The side walls and roof, pro- 
 jecting 2 or 3 feet beyond the walls at each end, form a sort 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE, 79 
 
 of portico, where benches are placed to sit on. The fire is 
 made in the middle of a hollow square on the floor, which is 
 inclosed with wood or stone. They sleep near the walls, 
 their beds consisting of straw laid on the ground. . The 
 wealthier, or those having large families, have three or four 
 houses, inclosed in their courtyard. Their clothes, arms, 
 feathers, some ill-made tools, and a chest in which all these 
 are deposited, form all the furniture of the inside of the 
 house. Their hammers to beat fern root, gourds to hold water, 
 and baskets to contain provisions, are placed without the 
 house. One house was found near 40 feet long, 20 wide, and 
 14 high. Its sides were adorned with carved planks, of 
 workmanship superior to the rest ; but the building appeared 
 to have been left unfinished. 
 
 The canoes of this country are long and narrow ; the 
 larger sort seem built for war, and will hold from 30 to 
 100 men. One of those of Tolaga measured nearly 70 feet 
 in length, 6 in width, and 4 in depth. It was sharp at the 
 bottom, and consisted of three lengths, about 2 or 3 inches 
 thick, and tied firmly together with strong plaiting ; each 
 side was formed of one entire plank, about 12 inches broad, 
 and about 1% inch thick, which was fitted to the bottom 
 part with equal strength and ingenuity. Several thwarts 
 were laid from one side to the other, to which they were 
 securely fastened, in order to strengthen the canoes. Some 
 few of their canoes at Mercury Bay and Opoorage, were all 
 made entirely of one trunk of a tree, which is made hollow 
 by fire ; but by far the greater part are built after the manner 
 above described. The smaller boats, which are used chiefly 
 in fishing, are adorned at head and stern with the figure of 
 a man, the eyes of which are composed of white shells ; a 
 tongue of enormous size is thrust out of the mouth, and the 
 whole face is a picture of absolute deformity. The grander 
 canoes, which are intended for war, are ornamented with 
 open work, and covered with fringes of black feathers, which 
 give the whole an air of perfect elegance ; the side boards, 
 which are carved in a rude manner, are embellished with 
 tufts of white feathers. These vessels are rowed by paddles, 
 
8o COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 between 5 and 6 feet in length, the blade of which is a long 
 oval, gradually decreasing till it reaches the handle ; and 
 the velocity with which they row with these paddles is very 
 surprising. Their sails are composed of a kind of mat or 
 netting, which is extended between two upright poles, one 
 of which is fixed on each side ; two ropes, fastened to the 
 top of each pole, serve instead of sheets. The vessels are 
 steered by two men, each having a paddle, and sitting in the 
 stern ; but they can only sail before the wind, in which 
 direction they move with considerable swiftness. 
 
 These New Zealanders use axes, adzes, and chisels, with 
 which last they likewise bore holes. The chisels are made of 
 jasper, or of the bone of a man's arm ; their adzes and axes 
 of a hard black stone. They use their small jasper tools till 
 they are blunted, and then throw them away, having no in- 
 strument to sharpen them with. The Indians at Tolaga 
 having been presented with a piece of glass, drilled a hole 
 through it, and hung it round the neck. A small bit of jasper 
 was thought to have been the tool they used in drilling it. 
 
 Their tillage is excellent. A long narrow stake, sharpened 
 to an edge at bottom, with a piece fixed across at a little 
 distance above it, for the convenience of driving it into the 
 ground with the foot, supplies the place both of plough and 
 spade. The soil being light, their work is not very laborious, 
 and with this instrument alone they will turn up ground of 
 six or seven acres in extent. 
 
 The seine or large net, which has already been noticed, is 
 produced by their united labour, and is probably the joint 
 property of the whole town. Their fish-hooks are of shell or 
 bone, and they have baskets of wicker work to hold the fish. 
 Their warlike weapons are spears, darts, battle-axes, and the 
 patoo-patoo. The spear, which is pointed at the end, is about 
 16 feet in length, and they hold it in the middle, so that it is 
 difficult to parry a thrust with it. Whether they fight in boats 
 or on shore, the battle is hand to hand. They trust chiefly in 
 the patoo-patoo, which is fastened to their wrist by a strong 
 strap, that it may not be wrested out of their hands. These 
 are worn in the girdles of people of superior rank as a mili^ 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 8r 
 
 tary ornament. They have a kind of staff of distinction, 
 which is carried by the principal warriors. It is formed of 
 a whale's rib, is quite white, and adorned with carving, 
 feathers, and the hair of their dogs. Sometimes they have 
 a stick 6 feet long, inlaid with shells, and otherwise orna- 
 mented like a military staff. This honourable mark of dis- 
 tinction was commonly in the hands of the aged, who were 
 also more daubed with the amoco. When they came to 
 attack the English, one or more of these old men thus dis- 
 tinguished were in each canoe. It was their custom to stop 
 50 or 60 yards from the ship, when the chief, rising from his 
 seat, put on a dog's skin garment, and holding out his deco- 
 rated staff, directed them how to proceed. When they were 
 too far from the ship to reach it with their missile weapons, 
 they uttered cries of defiance. Thus they would ap- 
 proach the ship gradually till they were close alongside, still 
 talking at intervals in a peaceable manner, and answering 
 any questions that were asked them. Then again their me- 
 naces were repeated, till, encouraged by the supposed timidity 
 of the Endeavour's people, they began the war-song and 
 dance, the sure prelude to an attack, which always followed, 
 and sometimes continued till the firing of small shot repulsed 
 them ; but at others, they vented their passion by throwing 
 a few stones against the ship by way of insult. 
 
 In the war-dance their limbs are distorted and their faces 
 agitated with strange convulsive motions : their tongues hang 
 out of their mouths to an amazing length, and their eyelids 
 are drawn so a5 to form a circle round the eye. At the 
 same time they shake their darts, brandish their spears, 
 and wave their patoo-patoos to and fro in the air. There 
 is an admirable vigour and activity in their dancing ; and in 
 their song they keep time with such exactness, that sixty or 
 a hundred paddles, when struck against the sides of their 
 boats at once, make only a single report. In times of peace 
 they sometimes sing in a manner resembling the war-song, 
 but the dance is omitted. The women, whose voices are 
 exceedinglv melodious and soft, sing likewise in a musical 
 but mournful manner. One of their instruments of music 
 
82 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 is a shell, from which they produce a sound not unlike that 
 made with a common horn ; the other is a small wooden 
 pipe not superior in sound to a child's whistle. They were 
 never heard to sing, or to produce any measured notes hke 
 what we call a tune. 
 
 As to the horrid custom of eating human flesh, prevalent 
 among them, in most of the caves were found flesh and the 
 bones of men ; and some of the heads that were brought 
 on board had false eyes and ornaments in their ears, as if 
 alive. The head purchased by Mr. Banks, and sold with 
 great reluctance, was that of a young person, and by the 
 contusions on one side, appeared to have received many 
 violent blows. 
 
 The hippahs, or villages of these people, of which there are 
 several between the Bay of Plenty and Queen Charlotte's 
 Sound, are all fortified. In these they constantly reside ; 
 but near Tolaga, Hawk's Bay, and Poverty Bay, only single 
 houses are to be seen, at a considerable distance from each 
 other. 
 
 Both sexes eat together. The men cultivate the ground, 
 make nets, catch birds, and go out in their canoes to fish ; 
 while the women are employed in weaving cloth, collecting 
 shell-fish, and dressing food. 
 
 As to the religion of these people, they acknowledge one 
 Supreme Being, and several subordinate Deities. Their 
 mode of worship could not be learned, nor was any place 
 proper for that purpose seen. There was, indeed, a small 
 square area, encompassed with stones, in the middle of 
 which hung a basket of fern roots on one of their spades. 
 This, they said, was an offering to their gods, to obtain from 
 them a plentiful crop of provisions. They gave the same 
 account of the origin of the world, and the production of 
 mankind, as the inhabitants of Otaheite. 
 
 A great similitude was observed between the dress, furni- 
 ture, boats, and nets of the New Zealanders and the inhabi- 
 tants of the South Sea Islands, which would seem to denote 
 a common origin. Indeed, the inhabitants of these different 
 places have a tradition, that their ancestors sprang from 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 83 
 
 another country many years since, and they both agree that 
 this country was called Heawige. Tupia, when he accosted 
 the people here in the language of his own country, was per- 
 fectly understood, although the dialect is different. 
 
 On Saturday, the 31st of March, 1770, the Endeavour 
 sailed from Cape Farewell in New Zealand, having fine 
 weather and a fair wind. They steered westward with a 
 fresh gale till the 2nd of April, when they saw a tropic bird, 
 a sight very unusual in so high a latitude. On the 15th, they 
 saw a gannet ; and as this bird never goes far from land, they 
 sounded all night, but had no ground at 130 fathoms. The 
 day following, a small land bird perched on the rigging, but 
 they had no ground at 120 fathoms. On the morning of the 
 19th, they d scovered land, to the southernmost point of 
 which they gave the name of Point Hicks, in compliment to 
 the first lieutenant, who discovered it. 
 
 At noon, in lat. 37° 5' S. and 210° 29' W. long., they saw 
 another remarkable point of land, distant about four leagues. 
 Captain Cook gave it the name of Ram Head Point, from its 
 remarkable resemblance to the promontory of the same name 
 at the entrance of Plymouth Sound. The land appeared to 
 be low and level, the shore white and sandy, and the inland 
 parts covered with wood and verdure. At this time they 
 saw three water-spouts. In the evening, at six o'clock, the 
 northernmost point of land, which they named Cape Howe, 
 was distant about two leagues. On the 27th they saw 
 several of the inhabitants walking along the shore, four of 
 them carrying a cano3 on their shoulders ; but as they did not 
 attempt to come off to the ship, the captain took Mr. Banks, 
 Dr. Solander, and Tupia in the yawl to that p^.rt of the shore 
 where they saw the natives, near which four small canoes lay 
 close inland. The Indians sat on the rocks till the yawl was 
 within a quarter of a mile of the land, when they ran away 
 into the woods. The surf beating violently on the beach, 
 prevented tne boat from landing. At five in the evening they 
 returned to the ship, and a light breeze springing up, she sailed 
 to the northward, where they discovered several people on 
 shore. The pinnace having been sent ahead to sound. 
 
84 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 arrived near the spot where the Indians had stationed them- 
 selves, on which one of them hid himself among the rocks 
 near the landing-place, and the others retreated up the hill. 
 The pinnace keeping along the shore, the Indians walked 
 nearly in a line with her ; they were armed with long pikes, 
 and a weapon resembling a scimitar, and by various signs 
 and words invited the boat's crew to land. Those who did 
 not follow the boat, having observed the approach of the 
 ship, brandished their weapons, and threw themselves into 
 threatening attitudes. 
 
 The Endeavour anchored opposite a village of about eight 
 houses, whereupon Captain Cook manned the boats and took 
 Tupia with him, but had no sooner come near the shore, than 
 two men advanced, as if to dispute their setting foot on land. 
 The captain threw them beads, nails, and other trifles, which 
 they picked up with great delight. He then made signals 
 that he wanted water, and used every possible means to con- 
 vince them that no injury was intended. They now made 
 signs to the boat's crew to land, but no sooner had Captain 
 Cook done so, than the two Indians came again to oppose 
 them. A musket was now fired between them, on the report 
 of which one of them dropped a bundle of lances, which he 
 immediately snatched up again in great haste. One of them 
 threw a stone at the boat, on which the captain ordered a 
 musket loaded with small shot to be fired, which, wounding 
 the eldest of them in the legs, he retired hastily to one of the 
 houses that stood at some distance. The people in the boats 
 now landed, imagining that the wound this man had received 
 would put an end to the contest. In this, however, they 
 were mistaken, for he immediately returned with an oval- 
 shaped kind of shield, painted white in the- middle, and with 
 two holes in it to see through. They now advanced with 
 great intrepidity, and both discharged their lances at the 
 boat's crew, but did not wound any of them. Another 
 musket was now fired at them, on which they threw another 
 lance, and then took to their heels. The crew now went 
 up to the huts, in one of which they found the children, who 
 had secreted themselves- behind some bark. Having thrown 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 85 
 
 several pieces of cloth, ribbons, beads, and other things into 
 the hut, they took several of their lances, and then re- 
 embarked in the boat. They now sailed to the north point 
 of the bay, and found plenty of fresh water. Some men 
 having been sent to get wood and water, they no sooner came 
 on board to dinner, than the natives crowded down to the 
 place, and examined the casks with great attention, but did 
 not offer to remove them. When the people were on shore 
 in the afternoon, about twenty of the natives, all armed, 
 advanced within a trifling distance of them, and then stopped, 
 while two of their number approached still nearer. Mr. Hicks, 
 the commanding officer on shore, went towards them, with 
 presents in his hands, and endeavoured by every possible 
 means to assure them of his friendly intention, but to no 
 purpose, for they retired before he came up to them. In the 
 evening, Messrs. Banks and Solander went with the captain 
 to a cove north of the bay, where they caught between three 
 and four hundredweight of fish, at four hauls. 
 
 On Tuesday, May the ist, the south point of the bay was 
 named Sutherland Point, one of the seamen, of the name 
 of Sutherland, who died that day, being buried on shore. 
 More presents were left in the huts, such as looking-glasses, 
 combs, and other articles, but the former ones had not been 
 taken away. Making an excursion about the country, they 
 found it agreeably variegated with wood and lawn, the trees 
 being straight and tall, and without underwood. The second 
 lieutenant, Mr. Gore, who was dredging for oysters, saw some 
 Indians, who made signs for him to come on shore, which he 
 declined ; having finished his business, he sent the boat away, 
 and went by land with a midshipman to join the party who 
 were getting water. On their way they met with more than 
 twenty of the natives, who followed them so close as to come 
 within a few yards of them ; Mr. Gore stopped and faced 
 them, on which the Indians stopped also, and when he pro- 
 ceeded again, they followed him ; but they did not attack 
 him, though each had a lance. The Indians coming in sight 
 of the water-casks, stood at the distance of a quarter of a 
 mile, v.'hile Mr. Gore and his companions reached their ship- 
 
86 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 mates in safety. Two or three of the waterers now advanced 
 towards the Indians, but observing they did not retire, they 
 here imprudently turned about, and retreated hastily. This 
 apparent mark of cowardice emboldened the savages, who 
 discharged four of their lances at the fugitives, which fell 
 beyond them. They now stopped to pick up the lances ; on 
 which the Indians retired in their turn. At this instant the 
 captain came up, with Messrs. Banks and Solander. 
 
 Tupia having learnt to shoot, frequently strayed alone to 
 shoot parrots, and the Indians constantly fled from him with 
 as much precipitation as from the English. The name of 
 Botany Bay was given to this place from the great number of 
 plants collected by Messrs. Banks and Solander. 
 
 While the captain remained in the harbour, the English 
 colours were displayed on shore daily, and the name of the 
 ship, with the date of the year, was carved on a tree near the 
 place where they took in water. On Sunday, the 6th of 
 May, they sailed from Botany Bay, and at noon were off a 
 harbour, which was called Port Jackson, and in the evening- 
 near a bay to which they gave the name of Broken Bay. 
 The next day, at noon, the northernmost land in sight pro- 
 jected so as to justify the calling it Cape Three Points. As 
 they proceeded northward from Botany Bay the land ap- 
 peared high and well covered with wood. In the afternoon 
 of the 13th they discovered some rocky islands, and a day 
 later, by the assistance of their glasses, discerned about a 
 score of Indians, each loaded with a bundle. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 23rd, Captain Cook, attended 
 by several gentlemen and Tupia, went on shore to examine 
 the country. They landed within the point of a bay, which 
 led into a large lagoon, by the sides of which grew the true 
 mangrove, where they found many nests of ants of a singular 
 kind, as green as grass. When the branches were moved 
 they came forth in great numbers, and bit the disturber most 
 severely. These trees likewise afforded shelter for immense 
 numbers of green caterpillars, whose bodies were covered 
 with hairs. 
 
 On Thursday, the 24th, they made sail out of the bay, and 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 87 
 
 on the day following were abreast of a point, which, being 
 immediately under the tropic, the captain named Cape 
 Capricorn. On the west side of the point they saw an 
 amazing number of large birds, resembhng the pelican, some 
 of which were near five feet high. 
 
 On Monday, the 28th, they sailed to the northward, and got 
 among another cluster of islands. Here they were greatly 
 alarmed, having on a sudden but three fathoms of water, in 
 a rippling tide ; they immediately put the ship about, and 
 hoisted out the boat in search of deeper water ; after which they 
 stood to the west under easy sail, and in the evening came 
 to the entrance of a bay. In the afternoon, having sounded 
 round the ship, and found that there was water sufficient to 
 carry her over the shoal, they weighed, and stood to the west- 
 ward, having sent a boat ahead to sound, and at six in the 
 evening anchored in ten fathoms, with a sandy bottom, at 
 about two miles from the main land. 
 
 On Tuesday, the 29th, Captain Cook, intending to lay the 
 ship ashore, and clean her bottom, landed with the master 
 in search of a convenient pUce for that purpose ; in this 
 excursion Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander accompanied them; 
 several places were found suitable for laying ashore, but, 
 to their great disappointment, they could meet with no fresh 
 water. They proceeded, however, up the country, and in 
 the interior parts found gum trees, on the branches of which 
 were white ants' nests, formed of clay, as big as a bushel. On 
 another tree, they saw black ants, which perforated all the 
 twigs, and after eating out the pith, formed their lodgings in 
 the hollows, notwithstanding which the trees were in a flour- 
 ishing condition. They also saw many thousands of butter- 
 flies, which covered every bough in incredible numbers. 
 
 On Wednesday, the 30th, Captain Cook and other gentle- 
 men went on shore, and having gained the summit of a hill, 
 took a survey of the coast and the adjacent islands, which 
 being done, the captain proceeded with Dr. Solander up an 
 inlet that had been discovered the preceding day ; but the 
 weather proving unfavourable, and from fear of being lost 
 among the shoals in the night, they returned to the ship, 
 
^S COOICS VOYAGES, 
 
 having seen during the whole day only two Indians, who 
 followed the boat a considerable way along the shore. As 
 no water was to be found in their different excursions, the 
 Captain called the inlet where the ship lay. Thirsty Sound. 
 
 On the I St of June they got under weigh, and had now 
 quite opened the western inlet, which they distinguished by 
 the name of Broad Sound. A point of land which forms 
 the north-west entrance they named Cape Palmerston, lying 
 21° 30' S. lat. and 210° 54' W. long. Between this cape 
 and Cape Townshend is the bay which they called the 
 Bay of Inlets. At eight in the evening they anchored in 
 1 1 fathoms, with a sandy bottom, about two leagues from the 
 mainland. 
 
 Saturday, the 2nd, they made sail, and at noon saw a high 
 promontory which they named Cape Hillsborough. It bore 
 W. half N., distant seven miles. The land appeared to 
 abound in wood and herbage, and is diversified with hills, 
 plains, and valleys. A chain of islands large and small are 
 situated at a distance from the coast and under the land, 
 from some of which they saw smoke ascending in different 
 places. 
 
 On Sunday, the 3rd, they discovered a point of land, which 
 they called Cape Conway, and between that and Cape Hills- 
 borough a bay, to which they gave the name of Repulse Bay. 
 By the help of their glasses, they discovered two men and a 
 woman on one of the islands, and a canoe with an outrigger 
 like those at Otaheite. They named the islands Cumberland 
 Islands, in honour of the duke ; and a passage which they 
 had discovered was called Whit-Sunday Passage, from the 
 day on which it was seen. At daybreak, on Monday, the 
 4th, they were abreast of a point which they called Cape 
 Gloucester. Names were also given this day to several other 
 places, namely Holbourne Isle, Edgcumbe Bay, and Cape 
 Upstart, which last was so called because it rises abruptly 
 from the low lands that surround it. Inland are some hills 
 or mountains which, like the cape, afford but a barren 
 prospect. 
 
 On Tuesday, the 5tli, they were about four leagues from land. 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 89 
 
 and continued to steer W.N.W. as the land lay, till noon on 
 the 6th, when their latitude by observation being 19^ i' S., 
 they had the mouth of a bay all open, distant about two 
 leagues. This they named Cleveland Bay, and the east 
 point Cape Cleveland, now forming part of the colony of 
 Queensland. The west, which had the appearance of an 
 island, was called Magnetical Island, because the compass 
 did not traverse well when they were near it. They are both 
 high, as is the mainland between them, the whole forming a 
 surface the most rugged, rocky, and barren of any they had 
 seen upon the coast Yet it was not uninhabited, for they 
 saw smoke in several parts of the bottom of the bay. 
 
 Thursday, the 7th, at daybreak, they were abreast of the 
 eastern part of this land, and, in the afternoon, saw several 
 columns of smoke, also canoes, and some trees. 
 
 On Friday, the 8th, they stood away for the northernmost 
 point in sight, to which they gave the name of Point Hillock. 
 Between this and Magnetical Isle the shore forms HaUfax 
 Bay, which affords shelter from all winds. At six in the 
 evening they were abreast of a point of land which they 
 named Cape Sandwich. From hence the land trends west, 
 and afterwards north, forming a hne large bay, which was 
 named Rockingham Bay. They now ranged northward 
 along the shore, towards a cluster of islands, on one of which 
 about forty or fifty men, women, and children were standing 
 together, all stark naked, and looking at the ship with a 
 curiosity never observed among these people before. At 
 noon their latitude, by observation, was 17° 59' S., and they 
 were abreast of the north point of Rockingham Bay, which 
 bore from them west, distant about two miles. This boun- 
 dary of the bay is formed by an island of considerable height, 
 which they distinguished by the name of Dunk Island. 
 
 On Saturday, the 9th, in the morning, they were abreast of 
 some small islands, which were named Frankland's Isles. At 
 noon they were in the middle of the channel. The point on 
 the main, of which they were now abreast, Captain Cook 
 named Cape Grafton. Having hauled round this, they found 
 a bay three miles to the westward, in which they anchored, 
 
90 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 and called the island Green Island. Here Mr. Banks and 
 Dr. Solander went ashore with the captain, with a view of 
 procuring water, which not being easily had, they soon re- 
 turned on board, and the next day arrived near Trinity Bay, 
 so called because it was discovered on Trinity Sunday. 
 
 Sunday, the loth, was remarkable for the dangerous situa- 
 tion of the Endeavour. 
 
 As no remarkable accident had befallen our adventurers, 
 during a navigation of more than thirteen hundred miles, 
 upon a coast everywhere abounding with the most dan- 
 gerous rocks and shoals, no name expressive of distress had 
 hitherto been given to any cape or point of land which they 
 had seen. But they now gave the name of Cape Tribula- 
 tion to a point they had just discovered, because here they 
 became acquainted with misfortune. The cape lies in latitude 
 1 6° 6' S. and 214° 39' W. longitude. 
 
 On Sunday, the loth, at six in the evening, they shortened 
 sail, and hauled off shore close upon a wind, to avoid the 
 danger of some rocks which were seen ahead. They kept 
 standing off till near nine, with a fine breeze and bright 
 moon, and had got into twenty-one fathoms of water, when 
 suddenly they fell into twelve, ten, and eight fathoms, in a 
 few minutes. Every man was instantly ordered to his 
 station, and they were on the point of anchoring, when, on a 
 sudden, they had again deep water, so that they thought all 
 danger was at an end, concluding they had sailed over the 
 tail of some shoals, which they had seen in the evening. In 
 less than an hour, however, the water shallowed at once from 
 twenty to seventeen fathoms, and before soundings could be 
 taken, the ship struck upon a rock, and remained immov- 
 able. Every one was instantly on deck, with countenances 
 fully expressive of the horrors of their situation. Knowing 
 they were not near the shore, they concluded they had struck 
 upon a rock of coral, the points of which are sharp, and the 
 surface so rough as to grind away whatever is rubbed 
 against it, even with the most gentle motion ; all the sails 
 being immediately taken in and the boats hoisted out, they 
 found that the ship had been carried over a ledge of the 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 9I 
 
 % 
 rock, and lay in a hollow within it. Finding the water 
 deepest astern, they carried out the anchor from the star- 
 board quarter, and applied their whole force to the capstan, 
 in hopes of getting the vessel off, but in vain. She beat so 
 violently against the rock, that the crew could scarcely keep 
 their legs. By the bright light of the moon, they could see 
 the sheathing-boards float from the bottom of the vessel, till 
 at length the false keel followed, so that they expected instant 
 destruction. As their only chance of escape seemed to be 
 lightening the ship, they started the water in the hold, and 
 pumped it up. 
 
 The decayed stores, oil-jars, casks, ballast, six of their 
 guns, and other articles were thrown overboard, in order to 
 get at the heavier stores ; and in this business they were 
 employed till daybreak, during all which time not an oath 
 was sworn, so much were the minds of the sailors impressed 
 with a sense of their danger. 
 
 At daylight they saw land eight leagues distant, but not a 
 single island between them and the main, on which part of 
 the crew might have landed, while the boats went on shore 
 with the rest ; so that the destruction of the greater part 
 would have been inevitable had the ship gone to pieces. It 
 happened, however, that the wind died away to a dead calm 
 before noon. As they expected high water about eleven 
 o'clock, everything was prepared to make another effort to 
 free the ship, but the tide fell so short, that she did not float 
 by 18 inches, though they had thrown overboard nearly fifty 
 tons weight ; they therefore contmued throwing overboard 
 everything that could possibly be spared. As the tide fell, the 
 water poured in so rapidly that they could scarcely keep her 
 free by the constant working of two pumps. Their only hope 
 now depended on the midnight tide, and preparations were 
 accordingly made for another effort to get the ship off. The 
 tide began to rise at five o'clock, when the leak likewise 
 increased to such a degree, that two pumps more were 
 manned, but only one of them would work ; three, therefore, 
 were kept going till nine o'clock, at which time the ship 
 righted ; but so much water had been admitted by the leak. 
 
92 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 that they expected she would sink as soon as the tide bore 
 her off the rock. 
 
 Their situation was now deplorable beyond description, 
 almost all hope being lost. They knew that when the 
 fatal moment arrived, all authority would be at an end. The 
 boats were incapable of conveying all on shore, and they 
 dreaded a contest for the preference as more shocking than 
 the shipwreck itself. Yet it was considered that those who 
 were left on board would eventually meet with a milder fate 
 than those who, by gaining the shore, would have no chance 
 but to linger out the remains of life among the rudest savages 
 in the universe, and in a country where fire-arms would 
 barely enable them to support a wretched existence. At 
 twenty minutes past ten the ship floated, when they were 
 happy to find that she did not admit more water than she 
 had done before. Yet, as the leak had for a considerable 
 time gained on the pumps, there was now 3 feet 9 inches of 
 water in the hold. By this time the men were so wearied 
 by fatigue of body and anxiety of mind, that none of them 
 could pump more than five or six minutes at a time, when 
 they would throw themselves, quite spent, on the deck. The 
 succeeding man being fatigued in his turn, threw himself down 
 in the same manner, while the former jumped up and renewed 
 his labour, thus mutually struggling for life, till the following 
 accident almost gave them up a prey to absolute despair. 
 
 Between the inside lining of the ship's bottom and the out- 
 side planking, there is a space of about seventeen or eighteen 
 inches. The man who had hitherto taken the depth of water 
 at the well, had taken it no farther than the ceiling, but being 
 now relieved by another, who took the depth of the outside 
 planks, it appeared, by this mistake, that the leak had sud- 
 denly gained upon the pumps the whole difference between 
 the two planks. This circumstance deprived them of all 
 hope, and few thought it worth while to labour for the longer 
 preservation of a life which must soon be terminated. The 
 mistake, however, was soon discovered ; and the joy arising 
 from such unexpected good news inspired the men with so 
 much vigour, that before eight o'clock in the morning they 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 93 
 
 had pumped out considerably more water than they had 
 shipped. They now talked of nothing but getting the ship 
 into some harbour, and set heartily to work to secure their 
 anchors, one of which, and the cable of another, they had 
 lost. Having a good sea breeze, they set sail at eleven 
 o'clock, and steered for land. As they could not discover 
 the exact situation of the leak, they had no prospect of stop- 
 ping it from within the vessel, but the following expedient, 
 which one of the midshipmen had formerly seen tried with 
 success, was adopted. They took an old studding-sail, and 
 having mixed a large quantity of oakum and wool, chopped 
 small, it was stitched down in handfuls on the sail, as lightly as 
 possible, the dung of their sheep and other filth being spread 
 over it. Thus prepared, the sail was hauled under the ship 
 by ropes, which kept it extended till it came under the leak, 
 when the suction carried in the oakum and wool from the 
 surface of the sail. This experiment succeeded so well that, 
 instead of three pumps, the water was easily kept under with 
 one. 
 
 They had hitherto intended to run the ship into some 
 harbour, and build a vessel from her materials, in which they 
 might reach the East Indies ; but they now began to think 
 of finding a proper place to repair her damages, and then to 
 pursue the voyage on its original plan. At six in the evening 
 they anchored seven leagues from the shore. Next morning 
 they passed two small islands, which they called Hope 
 Islands, because to reach them had been the object of their 
 wishes at the time of the disaster. In the afternoon the 
 master was sent out with two boats to sound and search for 
 a harbour where the ship might be repaired, and they 
 anchored at sunset, in four fathoms of water, two miles from 
 the shore. One of the mates being sent out in the pinnace, 
 returned at nine o'clock, reporting that he had found a suit- 
 able harbour, two leagues distant. 
 
 They sailed early on Wednesday, the 13th, and soon 
 anchored about a mile from the shore, when the captain 
 took soundings in a boat and found the channel very narrow, 
 but the harbour was better adapted to their present purpose 
 
94 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 than any place they had seen in the whole course of their 
 voyage. As it blew very fresh this day and the following 
 night they could not venture to run into the harbour, but 
 remained at anchor during the two succeeding days. 
 
 The men, by this time, began to be afflicted with scurvy, 
 and Tupia was so ill with it, that he had livid spots on both 
 his legs ; Mr. Green, the astronomer, also suffered from the ' 
 same disorder. The wind continuing fresh till the 17th they 
 resolved to push in for the harbour, and twice ran the ship 
 aground ; the second time she stuck fast, on which they 
 took down the booms, foreyard, and foretop-mast, and made 
 a raft on the side of the ship ; and, as the tide happened to 
 be rising, she floated at one o'clock. They soon got her into 
 the harbour, where she was moored close to the beach, and 
 the anchors and cables immediately taken out of her. 
 
 On Monday, the i8th, they erected a tent for the sick, who 
 were brought on shore as soon as it was ready for their 
 reception. They likewise set up another tent to hold the 
 provisions and stores, which were landed the same day. 
 The boat was now dispatched in search of fish for the sick, 
 but she returned without having procured any. Tupia, how- 
 ever, employed himself in angling, and living entirely upon 
 what he caught, recovered his health very fast. In an excur- 
 sion Mr. Banks made up the country, he saw the frames of 
 several huts, and Captain Cook having ascended one of the 
 highest hills, observed the land to be stony and barren, and 
 the low land, near the river, overrun with mangroves, among 
 which the salt water flowed every tide. 
 
 Tuesday, the 19th, the smith's forge was set up, and the 
 armourer prepared the necessary iron- work for the repairs. On 
 the 22nd they warped the ship higher up the harbour, in order 
 to stop the leak. Early in the morning, the tide having left 
 her, they proceeded to examine the leak, when it appeared 
 that the rocks had cut through four planks into the timbers, 
 and that three other planks were damaged. In these 
 breaches not a splinter was to be seen, the whole being 
 smooth, as if cut away by an instrument ; but most provi- 
 dentially the vessel was preserved by a, very singular circum- 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE, 95 
 
 stance. Though one of the holes was large enough to have 
 sunk her, even with eight pumps constantly at work, yet it 
 was partly stopped up by a fragment of the rock, which re- 
 mained sticking in it. They likewise found that some oakum, 
 wool, &c., had got between the timbers and stopped those 
 parts of the leak that the stone had left open. Exclusive of 
 the leak, great damage was done to various parts of the ship's 
 bottom. 
 
 While the smiths were employed in making nails and bolts, 
 the carpenters began to work on the vessel ; and some of 
 the people were sent on the other side of the river to shoot 
 pigeons for the sick. They found a stream of fresh water, 
 discovered many Indian houses, and saw a mouse-coloured 
 animal, very swift, and about the size of a greyhound. On 
 the 23rd, a boat was dispatched to haul the seine, and re- 
 turned at noon with only three fish, although they saw plenty 
 leaping about the harbour. This day many of the crew saw 
 the animal above mentioned, which was afterwards discovered 
 to be a huge black bat about the size of a partridge. 
 
 The repairs of the ship on the starboard side having been 
 finished, the carpenters now began to work under her port 
 bow, and on examination abaft, it appeared she had received 
 very little injury in that quarter. Mr. Banks having removed 
 his whole collection of plants into the bread-room, they were 
 this day under water, by which some of them were totally 
 destroyed ; however, by great care, most of them were 
 restored to a state of preservation. A plant was found on 
 the 25th, the leaves of which were almost as good as spinach ; 
 also a fruit of a deep purple colour, and the size of a golden 
 pippin, which, after having been kept a few days, tasted like 
 a damson. 
 
 On Tuesday, the 26th, the carpenter was engaged in 
 caulking the ship, and the men in other necessary 
 business ; and on the 27th the armourer continued to work 
 at the forge and the carpenter on the ship ; while the captain 
 made several hauls with the large net, but caught only be- 
 tween twenty and thirty fish, which were distributed among 
 the sick and the convalescent. Here they saw a tree notched 
 
96 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 for climbing ; also nests of white ants, from a fev/ inches to 
 five feet in height, prints of men's feet, and the tracks of three 
 or four animals were likewise discovered. 
 
 One of the midshipmen saw a wolf, resembling exactly the 
 same species in America. 
 
 On the 29th of June, and again on the following day, they 
 had such a good haul of fish, that two pounds and a half 
 were distributed to each man, and plenty of greens were 
 gathered, which, when boiled with peas, made an excellent 
 mess, and they all thought this day's fare an unspeakable 
 refreshment. 
 
 On the I St of July all the crew had permission to go on 
 shore, except one from each mess, part of whom were again 
 sent to haul the seine, and were equally successful. 
 
 On the 3rd the master, who had been sent out in the 
 pinnace, returned, and reported that he had found a passage 
 out to sea, between shoals consisting of coral rocks, many of 
 which were dry at low water. He found some cockles so 
 large that one of them was more than sufficient for two men ; 
 likewise plenty of other shell-fish, of which he brought a supply 
 to the ship. This day they made another attempt to float the 
 Endeavour^ and happily succeeded at high water, when they 
 found that, from the position she had lain in, one of her 
 planks was sprung, so that it was again necessary to lay her 
 ashore. 
 
 On the 5th she was again floated, and moored off the 
 beach in order to receive the stores on board. This day they 
 crossed the harbour, and found on a sandy beach a great num- 
 ber of fruits, not discovered before ; among others, a cocoa- 
 nut, which Tupia said had been opened by a crab, and was 
 judged to be what the Dutch call Beurs Krabbe. Mr. Banks 
 sailed up the river with a party on the 6th, and returned on 
 the 8th ; they found its course contracted into a narrow 
 channel, bounded by steep banks, adorned with trees of a 
 most beautiful appearance, among which was the bark-tree. 
 The land was low and covered with grass, and seemed ca- 
 pable of being cultivated to great advantage. While in pursuit 
 of game, they saw four animals, two of which were chased by 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 97 
 
 Mr. Banks' greyhound, but they greatly outstripped him in 
 speed, by leaping over the long thick grass, which incommoded 
 the dog in running ; it was observed that these animals bounded 
 forward on two legs instead of running on four. On their re- 
 turn to the boat, they proceeded up the river till it contracted to 
 a brook of fresh water, in which the tide rose considerably. 
 When preparing to halt for the night they saw smoke at a 
 distance, on which three of them approached the spot, but 
 the Indians were gone. They saw the impressions of feet on 
 the sand, below high -water mark, and found a fire still burn- 
 ing in the hollow of an old tree. At a small dis^^.iice were 
 several huts, and they observed ovens dug in the ground, 
 and also the remains of a recent meal. They slepi that night 
 on plantain leaves, with a bunch of grass for th;:r pillows, 
 and the tide favouring their return in the mr.ruing, lost no 
 time in getting back to the ship. The master, v/iio had been 
 seven leagues at sea, returned soon after I\ii*. R.ii-kr. bringing 
 with him three turtles, which he took with a boat-hook, and 
 which together weighed nearly 800 pounds. 
 
 In the morning four Indians, in a small canoe, were within 
 sight. The captain now determineid to lake no notice of 
 these people, as the most likely way to be n. ticed by 
 them. This project answered ; two of them came within 
 musket-shot of the vessel, and after some conversation carried 
 on at a distance, the Indians gradually approached, with 
 their lances held up, not in a menacing manner, but as if 
 they meant to intimate that they were capable of defending 
 themselves. They came almost alongside, when the captain 
 ,threw them cloth, nails, paper, &c., which did not seem to 
 attract their notice ; at length one of the sailors threw a small 
 fish, which so pleased them that they hinted their design of 
 bringing their companions, and immediately rowed for the 
 shore. In the interim, Tupia and some of the crew landed 
 on the opposite shore. The Indians soon came alongside 
 the ship, and having received presents, landed where Tupia 
 and a few sailors went on shore. They had each two lances, 
 and a stick with which they throw them. Advancing to- 
 wards the English, Tupia persuaded them to lay down their 
 
98 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 arms, and sit by him, which they readily did. Others of the 
 crew now going on shore, the Indians seemed jealous, lest 
 they should get between them and their arms, but care was 
 taken to convince them that no such thing was intended, and 
 more trifles were presented to them. The crew stayed with 
 them till dinner time, and then made signs of invitation for 
 them to go to the ship and eat ; but this they declined, and 
 retired in their canoe. 
 
 These men were of common stature, with very small limbs. 
 Their complexion was of a deep chocolate colour, their hair 
 black, either lank or curled, but not of the woolly kind ; and 
 some part of their bodies had been painted red. Their teeth 
 were white and even, their eyes bright, and their features 
 pleasing ; their voices were musical, and they repeated 
 several English words with great readiness. 
 
 The next morning the visit of three of these Indians was- 
 renewed, and they brought with them a fourth, whom they 
 called Yaparico, who appeared to be a person of some con- 
 sequence. The bone of a bird, about six inches long, was 
 thrust through the gristle of his nose ; and, indeed, all the 
 inhabitants of this place had their noses bored, for the recep- 
 tion of such ornaments. These people being quite naked, 
 the captain gave one of them an old shirt, which he bound 
 round his head like a turban, instead of using it to cover any 
 part of his body. They brought a fish to the ship, which was 
 supposed to be in payment for that given them the day be- 
 fore ; after staying some time with apparent satisfaction, they 
 suddenly leaped into their canoes and rowed off, from a 
 jealousy of some of the gentlemen who were examining it. 
 
 On the 1 2th of July three Indians visited Tupia's tent, and 
 after remaining some time, went for two others, whom they 
 introduced by name. Some fish were offered them, but after 
 eating a little, they gave the remainder to Mr. Banks' dog. 
 Both the strangers had bones through their noses, and a 
 piece of bark tied over their foreheads ; and one of them had 
 an ornament of strings round his arm, and an elegant neck- 
 lace made of shells. Their canoe was about ten feet long, 
 and calculated to hold four persons, and when it was in 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 99 
 
 shallow water, they moved it by the help of poles. Their 
 lances had only a single point, and some of them were barbed 
 with fish bones. 
 
 On the 14th Mr. Gore shot one of the mouse-coloured 
 animals above mentioned. It chanced to be a young one, 
 weighing more than thirty-eight pounds, but when they are 
 full grown, they are as large as a sheep. The skin of this 
 beast, which is called kangaroo, is covered with short fur and 
 is of a dark mouse colour ; the head and ears are somewhat 
 like those of a hare. This animal was dressed for dinner, 
 and proved excellent eating. The ship's crew fed on turtle 
 almost every day, which were finer and better than those 
 eaten in England, owing to their being killed before their 
 natural fat was wasted and their juices changed. 
 
 On the 17th Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went with the 
 captain into the woods, and saw four Indians in a canoe, who 
 went on shore, and walked up without sign of fear. They 
 accepted some beads and departed, intimating that they did 
 not choose to be followed. The natives having now become 
 familiar with the ship's crew, one of them was desired to 
 throw his lance, which he did with such force and dexterity, 
 that though it was not above four feet from the ground, at 
 the highest, it penetrated deeply into a tree at a distance of 
 fifty yards. The natives now came on board the ship, and 
 seemed well pleased with their entertainment. The women 
 as well as the men were quite naked. 
 
 On the 19th they were visited by ten Indians, who seemed 
 resolved to have one of the turtles that was on board, which 
 they repeatedly made signs for, and expressed the utmost 
 rage aiid resentment on its being refused them ; one of them 
 in particular, having received a denial from Mr. Banks, 
 stamped and pushed him away in a most violent manner. 
 At length they laid hands on two of the turtles, and dragged 
 them to the side of the ship where the canoe lay, but the 
 sailors took them away. They made several similar attempts, 
 but being equally unsuccessful, leaped suddenly into their 
 canoe, and rowed off. At this instant the captain, with Mr. 
 Banks and five or six of the seamen, went an shore, where 
 
loo COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 many of the crew were already employed. On the arrival of 
 the Indians soon after, one of them snatched a firebrand 
 from under a pitch kettle, and running to windward of what 
 articles were left on shore, set fire to the dry grass, which 
 burned rapidly, scorched a pig to death, burned part of the 
 smith's forge, and would have destroyed a tent of Mr. Banks, 
 but that some people came from the ship just in time to get 
 it out of the way of the flames. In the meanwhile, the 
 Indians went to a place where the fishing-nets lay, and a 
 quantity of linen was laid out to dry, and there again set fire 
 to the grass in spite of all persuasion and even threats. A 
 musket loaded with small shot was fired, and one of them 
 being wounded, they ran away ; this second fire was ex- 
 tinguished, but the other burned far into the woods. 
 
 The Indians still continuing in sight, a musket charged 
 with ball was fired at them, the report of which sent them out 
 of sight ; but their voices being heard in the woods the 
 captain, with a few people, went to meet them. Both parties 
 stopped when in sight of each other ; an old Indian then ad- 
 vanced before the rest a little way, but soon halted, and 
 having spoken some words which the English could not 
 understand, he retreated to his companions, and they all re- 
 tired slowly in a body. Having seized some of their darts, 
 the ship's crew continued to follow them about a mile, and 
 then sat down upon the rocks, the Indians sitting also 
 about a hundred yards from them. The old man again 
 came forward, having a lance without a point in his 
 hand ; he stopped several times at different distances 
 and spoke, whereupon the captain made signs of friendship, 
 which they answered. The old man now turned and spoke 
 to his companions, who placed their lances against a tree, 
 and advanced in a friendly manner. The darts were then 
 returned to them, and this rendered the reconciliation com- 
 plete. Having received somic trinkets, the Indians walked 
 amicably toward the coast, intimating by signs that they 
 would not fire the grass again. When they came opposite 
 the ship they sat down, but could not be prevailed upon to go 
 on board. They accepted a few musket-balls, the use and 
 
TciE FIRST VOYAGE. }or 
 
 eftects of which the captain endeavoured to explahi. When 
 the party arrived at the ship, they sav/ the woods burning at 
 the distance of two miles. 
 
 On Friday, the 20th, the ship being ready for sea, the 
 master was sent in search of a passage to the northward, but 
 could not find any ; while the captain sounded and buoyed 
 the bar. On the 22nd they killed a turtle, through the 
 shoulders of which stuck an harpoon, nearly fifteen inches 
 long, bearded at the end, and about the thickness of a man's 
 finger, resembling such as they had seen among the natives. 
 The turtle appeared to have been struck a considerable 
 time, as the wound was perfectly healed. On the 24th, one 
 of the sailors having strayed from his company, fell in with 
 four Indians at dinner. He was at first much alarmed, but 
 had the prudence to conceal his apprehensions ; and sitting 
 down beside them gave them his knife, which having examined 
 they returned. He would then have taken his leave, but they 
 seemed disposed to detain him, till, by feeling his hands and 
 face, they were convinced that he was made of flesh and blood 
 like themselves. They treated him with gi-eat civility, and 
 having kept him about half an hour, showed him the nearest 
 way to the ship. 
 
 On Saturday, the 4th of August, at seven o'clock in the 
 morning, they once more got under weigh and put to sea. 
 They stood E. by N., with the pinnace ahead to keep sound- 
 ing. About noon they came to an anchor, and the captain 
 named the northernmost point of land in sight Cape Bedford, 
 and the harbour they had quitted Endeavour River, it being 
 only a small bar harbour, or creek, which runs in a winding 
 channel three or four leagues inland. The provisions they 
 procured in this harbour consisted of turtle, oysters of differ- 
 ent sorts, flat fish, skate or ray fish, wild beans, and cabbage- 
 palms. Of quadrupeds, there are goats, wolves, polecats, and 
 several sorts of serpents, some of which are venomous. Dogs 
 are the only tame animals. The feathered tribe are repre- 
 sented by kites, crows, hawks, cockatoos, parrots, pigeons, 
 and small birds of various sorts ; the water fowls are wild 
 geese, curlew, whistling ducks, and some few others. The 
 
102 COOICS VOYAGES. 
 
 soil of the hills, though stony, produces coarse grass, beside 
 wood ; that of the valleys is in general well clothed, and has 
 the appearance of fertility. The trees are of various sorts. 
 of which the gum-trees are the most common. On each side 
 of the river are mangroves, which in some parts extend a 
 mile within the coast ; the country is well watered, and ant 
 hills are everywhere abundant. 
 
 On Saturday, the 4th, Captain Cook went up to the mast- 
 head to look at some dangerous shoals, several of which he 
 saw above the water. During the six following days they 
 attempted to sail between the shoals and breakers, by which 
 they were surrounded. On the loth they were between a 
 headland and three islands, which had been discovered the 
 preceding day. They now entertained hopes of being out of 
 danger, but this not proving to be the case, they called the 
 headland Cape Flattery. Some land was now discovered 
 and was generally taken for the main, though the captain 
 thought it was a cluster of islands. Owing to this diversity 
 of opinion, it was resolved to bring the ship to an anchor. 
 This done, the captain landed, and from a high point took a 
 survey of the sea coast, by which he was confirmed in his 
 conjecture. On the point where he stood were seen the 
 prints of human feet, in white sand of an exquisite fineness ; 
 and the place was named Point Look-out. To the northward 
 of this, the coast appeared to be shoal and flat for a con- 
 siderable distance. 
 
 On Saturday, the nth, early in the morning, Mr. Banks 
 and Captain Cook went to visit the largest of the three 
 islands, and having gained the summit of the highest hill, 
 beheld a reef of rocks, on which the sea broke heavily, but 
 the hazy weather prevented a perfect view ; they lodged under 
 a bush during the night, and next day seeing what had the 
 appearance of a channel between the reefs, one of the mates 
 was sent out in the pinnace to examine it. He returned at 
 noon, having found between 15 and 28 fathoms of water; 
 but it blew so hard that the mate did not think it prudent to 
 venture into one of the channels, which he said appeared to 
 be very narrow. While busy in this survey, Mr. Banks was 
 attentive to his favourite pursuit, and collected many plants 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE, 103 
 
 he had not before seen. This island, visible at twelve leagues' 
 distance, and in general barren, they found to be about eight 
 leagues in circumference. There are some sandy bays and 
 low land on the north-west side, which is covered with long 
 grass and trees of the same kind with those on the main ; 
 lizards of a very large size also abounded, some of which 
 they took. They found also fresh water in two places ; one 
 running stream close to the sea was rather brackish, the 
 other was a standing pool, perfectly sweet. They were sur- 
 prised to see, from the remains of some huts which they 
 found, that notwithstanding the great distance of this island 
 from the main land, it was sometimes visited by the Indians. 
 On their return to the ship, the captain named this place 
 Lizard Island, on account of their having seen no other 
 animals but lizards. When returning, they landed on a low 
 sandy island, upon which were birds of various kinds. They 
 took a nest of young eagles, and therefore called the place 
 Eagle Island. They found also the nest of some other bird 
 of a most enormous size ; it was made of sticks, upon the 
 ground, and was not less than 26 feet in circumference, 
 and 2 feet 8 inches high. They perceived that this place had 
 also been visited by the Indians. During their absence from 
 the ship, the master had landed on several low islands, where 
 he had seen great heaps of turtle shells, and found their fins, 
 which the Indians had left hanging on the trees, so fresh, 
 that they were dressed and eaten by the boat's crew. 
 
 On Sunday, the 12th, the officers being unanimously of 
 opinion that it would be advisable to leave the coast alto- 
 gether, the Endeavour sailed on the following day, and got 
 through one of the channels in the reef, happy at finding 
 themselves once more in the open sea, having been surrounded 
 by shoals and rocks for three months. "They had now 
 sailed above 1,000 miles, without," says Captain Cook, "ever 
 having a man out of the chains heaving the lead, when the 
 ship was under sail." The passage through which they 
 passed into the open sea beyond the reef, is in latitude 
 14° 32' S., and may always be known by the three high 
 islands within it, which Captain Cook called the Islands ot 
 
I04 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 Direction, because by these a stranger may find a safe 
 channel through the reef to the mainland. 
 
 On the 15th they steered a westerly course, in order to get 
 sight of land, that they might not pass the passage between 
 this country and New Guinea, if there were one. Early in the 
 afternoon they sighted land, which had the appearance of 
 hilly islands, and saw breakers between the vessel and the 
 land, in which there was an opening ; to get clear, they 
 set all sail, and stood to the northward till midnight, and 
 then went on a southerly tack for about two miles, when the 
 breeze died away to a dead calm. At daylight they saw a 
 fearful surf breaking at a vast height, within a mile of the 
 ship, towards which the rolling waves carried her with great 
 rapidity. The boats were sent ahead to tow, and the head of 
 the vessel was brought round, but not till she was within a 
 hundred yards of the rock, over which the surf broke in great 
 billows. Just as they were in expectation of instant destruc- 
 tion, a breeze, hardly discernible, aided the boats in getting 
 the vessel clear of the rock. The hopes, however, afforded 
 by this providential circumstance, were destroyed by a 
 perfect calm, which succeeded in a few minutes. Yet the 
 breeze once more returned, before they had lost the little 
 ground which had been gained. At this time a small open- 
 ing was seen in the reef, and a young officer being sent to 
 examine it, found that its breadth did not much exceed the 
 length of the ship, but that there was smooth water on the 
 other side of the rocks. They now attempted to pass the 
 opening, but this was impossible, for it having become high 
 water in the interim, the ebb tide rushed through it with 
 amazing impetuosity, carrying the ship about a quarter of a 
 mile from the reef, which soon increased to nearly two miles, 
 by the help of the boats. When the ebb tide was spent, the 
 flood again drove the vessel very near the rocks, so that the 
 prospect of destruction was renewed; but they discovered 
 another opening, and a light breeze springing up, were driven 
 through it with a rapidity that prevented the ship from 
 striking against either side of the channel. She now came 
 to an anchoi', and the crew were grateful for having regained 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 105 
 
 a station which they had been lately most anxious to quit. 
 The name of Providence Channel was given to the opening, 
 through which the ship had thus escaped the most imminent 
 dangers. A high promontory on the main land in sight 
 was denominated Cape Weymouth, and a bay near it Wey- 
 mouth Bay. This day the boats went out fishing, and met 
 with success, particularly in catching cockles, some of which 
 were of such an amazing size as to require two men to move 
 them. Mr. Banks likewise succeeded in his search for rare 
 shells and different kinds of coral. 
 
 On the 1 8th they discovered several small islands, which 
 were called Forbes' Islands, and sighted a high point of land 
 on the main, which was named the Bolt Head. On the 19th 
 they discovered several other small islands, which were low, 
 barren, and sandy. A point was seen and called Cape Gren- 
 ville, and a bay to which was given the name of Temple 
 Bay. In the afternoon many other islands were seen, which 
 were denominated Bird Isles, from their being frequented by 
 numerous flocks of birds. On the 20th they sighted many 
 more small islands, in one of which were a few trees and 
 several Indian huts. On the 21st they sailed through a 
 channel, in which was a number of shoals, and they gave the 
 name of York Cape to a point of the main land which forms 
 the side of the channel. A large bay is formed to the south of 
 the cape, which was called Newcastle Bay, and in which are 
 several little islands ; on the north side of the cape the land 
 is rather mountainous, but the low parts of the country 
 abound with trees. The islands discovered in the morning 
 of this day were called York Isles. Afterwards they anchored 
 between some islands, and observed that the channel began 
 to grow wider ; they also perceived two distant points, between 
 which no land could be seen, so that the hope of having at 
 length explored a passage into the Indian Sea began to 
 animate every breast ; but, to bring the matter to a certainty, 
 the captain, accompanied by Messrs. Solander and Banks, 
 landed with a party on an island on which they had seen a 
 number of Indians. Three of these Indians stood on shore 
 as if to oppose the landing of the boat, but they retired before 
 
lo6 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 it reached the beach. The captain and his company now 
 ascended a hill, from whence they had a view of nearly forty 
 miles, in which space there was nothing that threatened to 
 oppose their passage, so that the certainty of a channel 
 seemed to be almost indubitable. Previous to their leaving 
 the island. Captain Cook displayed the English colours, and 
 in the name of King George took possession of all the 
 eastern coast of the country, from the 38th deg. of S. latitude 
 to the present spot, by the name of New South Wales ; and 
 three volleys of small arms being fired, and answered by 
 an equal number from the E7ideavour, the place received the 
 name of Possession Island. Weighing anchor they gave the 
 name of Cape Cornwall to the extreme point of the largest 
 island on the north-west side of the passage, and some low 
 islands near the middle of the channel received the name of 
 Wallis' Isles ; soon after which the ship came to an anchor, 
 and the long-boat was sent out to sound. Towards evening 
 they sailed again, and the captain landed with Mr. Banks 
 on a small island which was frequented by immense numbers 
 of birds, the majority of which being boobies, the place re- 
 ceived the name of Booby Island. They were now advanced 
 to the northern extremity of New Holland, and had the 
 satisfaction of viewing the open sea to the westward. The 
 N.E. entrance to the passage is formed by the mainland of 
 New Holland, and by a number of islands, which took the 
 name of the Prince of Wales' Islands, and which Captain 
 Cook imagined may reach to New Guinea. This passage he 
 called Endeavour Straits. 
 
 None of the villages in New South Wales consisted 
 of more huts than would afford shelter for fourteen or 
 fifteen men, and these were the largest numbers that were 
 assembled at one spot exclusive of women. The men 
 are well made, of the middle size, and active in a high 
 degree, but their voices are soft, even to effeminacy. Their 
 colour is chocolate ; but they were so covered with dirt as 
 to look almost as black as negroes. Their hair is naturally 
 long and black, but they generally cropped it short ; in 
 some few instances it was slightly curled, and was always 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 107 
 
 matted with dirt ; their beards are thick and bushy, but kept 
 short by singeing. The women were seen only at a distance, 
 as the men constantly left them behind when they crossed the 
 river. The chief ornament of these people is the bone that is 
 thrust through the nose, which the sailors whimsically called 
 the " spritsail-yard ; " but besides this they wore necklaces 
 formed of shells, a small cord tied twice or thrice round the 
 arm, between the elbow and the shoulder, and a string of 
 plaited human hair round the waist. Some few of them had 
 an ornament of shells hanging across the breast. Besides 
 these ornaments, they painted their bodies white and red, in 
 stripes of different dimensions, and they had a circle of white 
 round each eye, and spots of it on the face. Their ears were 
 bored, but they did not wear ear-rings. They accepted what- 
 ever was given them, but seemed to have no idea of making 
 an adequate return; and they would not part with their 
 ornaments for anything that was offered in exchange. Their 
 bodies were marlied with scars, which they signified were in 
 remembrance of the deceased. Their huts were built with 
 small rods, the two ends of which were fixed in the ground, so 
 as to form the figure of an oven ; and the rods were covered 
 with pieces of bark and palm-leaves. The door of this build- 
 ing, which was only high enough to sit upright in, was opposite 
 the fireplace. They sleep with their heels turned up towards 
 their heads, and even in this posture the hut will not hold 
 more than four people. In the northern parts, where the 
 weather is warmer, the lee side of the houses was left open. 
 As these huts were only built for temporary use, they were 
 left behind, when their inmates removed to other parts of the 
 country. The huts were furnished with a kind of bucket for 
 filtering water, made of an oblong piece of bark tied up at 
 each end with a twig of a tree ; and this was the only furniture. 
 On their backs they have a kind of bag of the size and form 
 of a cabbage net, in which they carry their fish-hooks and 
 lines, and the shells of which they make these hooks ; also 
 their ornaments, consisting of some points of darts, and two 
 or three bits of paint, which constitute all their riches. They 
 feed on the kangaroo and several kinds of birds ; also yams. 
 
loS COOK\S VOYAGES. 
 
 and various kinds of fruit, but the principal article of their 
 subsistence is fish. They were frequently observed chewing 
 the leaves of a tree. Their method of producing fire, and 
 extending the flames, is very singular. Having wrought one 
 end of a stick to an obtuse point, they place this point upon 
 a piece of dry wood, and turning the upright stick very fast 
 backward and forward between their hands, fire is soon 
 produced, nor is it increased with less celerity. One of the 
 natives was frecjuently observed to run along the sea coast, 
 leaving fire in different places. The method taken to do 
 this was as follows : before he set off he wrapped up a little 
 spark of fire in dry grass, and the quickness of his motion 
 soon fanning it into a flame, he then placed it on the ground, 
 and putting a spark of it in another bit of grass, ran on 
 again, and increased the number of fires at pleasure. These 
 fires were supposed to be intended for the taking of the 
 kangaroo, as that animal was so very shy of fire, that when 
 pursued by the dogs, it would not pass places which had 
 been newly burnt, even when the fire was extinguished. 
 
 The natives of New South Wales make use of spears or 
 lances, but these are very differently constructed ; those that 
 were seen in the southern parts of the country had four 
 prongs, pointed with bone, and barbed, and the points were 
 rubbed with a kind of wax, the smoothness of which made an 
 easier passage into what was struck by them. The lances in 
 the northern parts have only one point ; the shafts, which 
 are from 8 to 14 feet in length, are made of the stalk of a 
 plant not unlike a bulrush, and consist of several joints let 
 into each other, and tied together. The points of these 
 lances are sometimes made of fish bones, and sometimes cf 
 hard heavy wood. They are barbed with other pieces of 
 wood or stone, so that when they have entered any depth 
 into the body, they cannot be drawn out without tearing the 
 flesh in a shocking manner, or leaving splinters behind them. 
 When the natives intend to wound at a considerable distance, 
 they discharge this instrument with a throwing stick ; but if 
 the object be near them, it is thrown from the hand only. 
 The throwing stick is a piece of smooth, hard red wood, half 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 109 
 
 an inch thick, two inches broad, and about three feet in 
 length, having a cross piece near four inches long at one end, 
 and a small knob at the other. A small hollow is made in 
 the shaft of the lance, near the point, and in this hollow the 
 knob is received, but on being forced forward it will easily 
 slip from it. The lance being placed on this throwing-stick, 
 the Indian holds it over his shoulder, shakes it, and then 
 throws both lance and stick with his utmost power ; but as 
 the cross-piece strikes the shoulder, the sudden jerk stops the 
 stick, while the lance is driven forward with amazing rapidity, 
 and is generally so well aimed, that a mark at the distance of 
 fifty yards is more surely struck with it than by a bullet from 
 a gun. 
 
 These people make use of shields made of the bark of 
 trees, of about eighteen inches broad, and three feet long 
 IMany trees were seen from whence the bark had been taken, 
 and others on which the shields were cut out, but not taken 
 away. In the northern parts of this country the canoes are 
 formed by hollowing the trunk of a tree, and it was con- 
 jectured that this operation must have been performed by 
 fire, as the natives did not appear to have any instrument 
 proper for the purpose. The canoes are about 14 feet in 
 length, and so narrow that they would be frequently upset, 
 but that they are provided with an out-rigger. The natives 
 row them with paddles, using both hands. The canoes in 
 the southern parts are formed of a piece of bark four yards 
 long, fastened together at each end, and kept open by a piece 
 of wood passing from side to side. In deep water, these 
 canoes, which are constructed to hold only four people, are 
 rowed by paddles of about a foot and a half in length, the 
 rower having one in each hand ; but in shallow water they 
 are pushed forward by means of a long stick. The natives 
 have for tools only a wooden mallet, a kind of wedge, and an 
 adze made of stone, with some pieces of coral and shells, 
 which may possibly be applied to the purposes of cutting^ 
 They polish the points of their lances and their throwing- 
 sticks with the leaves of a tree which are like the wild fig, 
 and bite with a sharpness almost equal to that of a rasp. 
 
no COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 On Friday, the 24th of August, 1770, the Endeavour got 
 under sail, steering north-west, and in a few hours one of 
 the boats ahead made the signal for shoal water. They 
 instantly brought the ship to, with all her sails standing, and 
 a survey being taken of the sea around her, it was found that 
 she was almost encompassed with shoals, and must have 
 struck if she had been half a cable's length on either side. 
 In the afternoon they made sail with the ebb tide, and got 
 out of danger before sunset. 
 
 On the 27th they pursued their voyage, shortening sail at 
 night, and tacking till daybreak of the 28th, when they 
 steered due north, in search of New Guinea. Land having 
 been sighted this clay from the mast-head, they stood off 
 and on all night, and at daybreak sailed towards it with a 
 brisk gale. 
 
 On Thursday, the 30th, they held a northerly course, the 
 land being just visible. Captain Cook now determined to land • 
 in one of the boats, while the ship kept plying off and on. 
 On the 3rd of September, accompanied by Mr. Banks and 
 Dr. Solander, he set off from the ship in the pinnace, the 
 party* consisting in all of twelve persons, well armed. They 
 rowed directly to the shore, but on arriving within 200 yards 
 of it found the water so shallow that they were obliged to 
 leave the boat in the care of two of the sailors, and wade to 
 land. They saw several prints of human feet on the sand, 
 below high-water mark, frdm whence it was evident that the 
 natives had been there. Having now advanced about a 
 quarter of a mile from the boat, three Indians rushed from 
 the wood with a hideous shout, and as they ran towards the 
 English the foremost threw something out of his hand, which 
 flew on one side of him, and burnt like gunpowder, but made 
 no report ; the other two threw their lances. The crew then 
 discharged their pieces, loaded with small shot only, upon 
 which the Indians cast a third dart. The crew now loaded 
 with bail, and fired a second time, and it is probable some 
 of them were wounded, as they all took to their heels with 
 great agility. Captain Cook now returned to the boat, and 
 on the way perceived signals on board that more natives 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. in 
 
 were coming in a body ; soon after he perceived several 
 Indians coming round a point, five hundred yards distant. 
 When they saw the crew they halted, until the crew entered 
 the water and waded to the boat. 
 
 These Indians much resembled the New Hollanders, being 
 nearly of the same stature, with their hair cropped short. 
 Their lances were made of a reed or bamboo cane, the points 
 of which were of hard wood, and barbed in many places. 
 They were light and about four feet in length. Such was the 
 force with which they were discharged, that they went be- 
 yond the English, though they were at sixty yards'' distance, 
 but in what manner they were propelled there was no means 
 of determining. This day, Monday, Sept. 3rd, Captain Cook 
 made sail to the westward, being resolved to spend no more 
 time upon this coast. 
 
 On Saturday, the 8th, they passed two small islands, and 
 about noon on the following day sighted more land, which 
 was conjectured to be either the Arrou Islands, or Timor 
 Laut. On Wednesday they saw a number of fires and 
 smoke in several places, whence it was conjectured that the 
 place was well peopled. The land near the shore was 
 covered with high trees not unlike pines ; further back were 
 cocoa-trees and mangroves. 
 
 On the morning of the 17th, as the ship was clear of all 
 the islands which had been laid down in such maps as were 
 on board, they were surprised at sighting an island to the 
 W.S.W., which they supposed was a new xiiscovery. Before 
 noon they saw houses, groves of cocoa-nut trees, and large 
 flocks of sheep, a most welcome sight to people whose health 
 was declining for want of fresh provisions. The second 
 lieutenant was immediately despatched in the pinnace in 
 search of a landing-place, and he took with him such things 
 as it was thought might be acceptable to the natives in effect- 
 ing purchases. During Mr. Gore's absence, the people on 
 board saw two men on horseback, up on the hills, who 
 frequently stopped to take a view of the vessel. The 
 lieutenant soon returned with an account that he had entered 
 a little cove, near which stood a few houses ; that several men 
 
112 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 advanced and invited him to land ; and that they conversed 
 together as well as they could by signs. He reported that 
 these people were very like the Malays in person and dress, 
 and that they had no other arms but a knife, which each of 
 them wore in his girdle. 
 
 The lieutenant not being able to find any place in which 
 the ship might come to an anchor, he was despatched, with 
 money and goods, to buy such necessaries as were immediately 
 wanted for the sick. Dr. Solander accompanied the lieutenant, 
 and during their absence the ship stood on and off the shore. 
 Soon after the boat had left, two other horsemen were seen 
 from the ship, one of whom had a laced hat on, and v/as 
 dressed in a European coat and waistcoat. These men rode 
 about on shore, taking little notice of the boat, but regarding 
 the ship with the utmost attention. As soon as the boat 
 reached the shore, some other persons on horseback, and 
 many on foot, hastened to the spot, and it was observed that 
 some cocoa-nuts were put into the boat, from whence it was 
 concluded that a traffic had commenced with the natives. 
 A signal being made from the boat that the ship might anchor 
 in a bay at some distance, she immediately bore away for it. 
 When the lieutenant returned, he reported that he could not 
 purchase any cocoa-nuts, as the owner of them was absent, 
 and that what he had brought were given to him, in return 
 for which he had presented the natives with some linen. The 
 method by which he learned that there was a harbour in the 
 neighbourhood, was by the natives drawing a kind of rude 
 map on the sand, in which the harbour, and a town near it, 
 were represented. It was likewise hinted to him that fruit, 
 fowls, hogs, and sheep might be had in great abundance. 
 He saw several of the principal inhabitants of the island, 
 who had chains of gold about their necks, and wore fine 
 linen. The word " Portuguese " being frequently repeated by 
 the Indians, it was conjectured that some natives of Portugal 
 were in the island, and one of the boaf s crew being of that 
 kingdom, he spoke to the islanders in his own language, but 
 soon found that they had only learned a few words, of which 
 they did not know the meaning. 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 113 
 
 When the ship entered the bay, an Indian town was seen 
 at a distance ; upon which a jack was hoisted on the foretop- 
 mast-head. Soon afterwards three guns were fired and 
 Dutch colours hoisted in the town ; the ship, however, held 
 on her way and came to an anchor at seven in the evening. 
 The captain, concluding that the Dutch had a settlement on 
 the island, dispatched his second lieutenant to acquaint the 
 governor, or other principal resident, who they were, and 
 that the ship had put in for necessary provisions. The 
 lieutenant having landed, was received by a guard of about 
 twenty Indians, armed with muskets, who proceeded without 
 the least military order, and escorted him to the town, where 
 the colours had been hoisted the preceding evening. The 
 lieutenant was now conducted to the rajah, or king of the island, 
 to whom, by means of a Portuguese interpreter, he made 
 known his business. The rajah said he was ready to supply 
 the ship with the necessary refreshments, but that he could 
 not trade with any other people than the Dutch, with whom 
 he was in alHance, without having first obtained their con- 
 sent. He added, however, that he would make application 
 to the Dutch agent, who was the only white man among 
 them. To this agent, whose name was Lange, and who 
 proved to be the person that was seen from the ship in the 
 European dress, a letter was dispatched, and in a few hours 
 he came to the town, behaved politely to the lieutenant, and 
 told him he might buy what he thought proper of the in- 
 habitants of the island. This offer being freely made, and 
 readily accepted, the rajah and Mr. Lange intimated their 
 wishes to go on board the ship, and that two of the boat's 
 crew might be left as hostages for their safe return. The 
 lieutenant gratified them in both these requests, and took 
 them on board just before dinner was served. As Dr. 
 Solander and another gentleman on board were tolerably 
 proficient in Dutch, they acted as interpreters between Mr. 
 Lange and the officers ; while some of the sailors, who under- 
 stood Portuguese, conversed with such of the rajah's attend- 
 ants as spoke that language. The dinner consisted chiefly 
 of mutton, which so pleased the rajah that he requested of 
 
114 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 them an English sheep, and the only one they had left was 
 presented to him. Their compliance in this particular en- 
 couraged the rajah to ask for an English dog, and Mr. Banks 
 politely gave up his greyhound. A spy-glass was also pre- 
 sented to him, Mr. Lange having intimated that such a 
 present would be very acceptable. 
 
 Their visitors now informed them that the island abounded 
 with buffaloes, sheep, hogs, and fowls, plenty of whidi should 
 be driven down to the shore the next day. This put them 
 all in such high spirits that the liquor circulated rather faster 
 than either the Indians or the Saxons could bear; but they 
 had, however, the resolution to express a desire to depart 
 before they were quite intoxicated. They were dismissed 
 with many presents, and on their departure were saluted with 
 nine guns. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander accompanied them, 
 and w^hen they put off returned their compliments with three 
 cheers. These gentlemen, on their arrival at the town, tasted 
 their palm-wine, w^hich was the fresh juice of the trees, un- 
 fermented. It had a sweet but not disagreeable taste, and 
 hopes were entertained that it might contribute to recover 
 the sick from the scurvy. The houses of the natives con- 
 sisted of only a thatched roof, supported over a boarded 
 floor by pillars about 4 feet high. 
 
 On the morning of Wednesday, the 19th, Captain Cook 
 attended by several gentlemen, went on shore to return the 
 rajah's visit; but their principal in':ention was to purchase 
 the cattle and fowls which they had been assured, the pre- 
 ceding day, should be driven down to the beach. They 
 were greatly chagrined at finding no steps had been 
 taken to fulfil this promise ; however, they proceeded to 
 the house of assembly, which, with a few other houses, 
 built by the Dutch East India Company, are dis- 
 tinguished from the rest, by having two pieces of wood, 
 resembling a pair of cow's horns, fixed on each end of the 
 roof. At the house of assembly they saw Mr. Lange and the 
 rajah, surrounded by many of the principal people. Captain 
 Cook having informed them that he had loaded his boat with 
 goods, which he wfshed to exchange for necessary refresh- 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 115 
 
 ments, permission was given him to land them. They now 
 endeavoured to make an agreement for the hogs, sheep, and 
 buffaloes, which were to be paid for in cash ; but this business 
 was no sooner hinted than Mr. Lange took his leave, having 
 first told the captain that he had received a letter from 
 the governor of Concordia, in Timor, the contents of which 
 should be disclosed at his return. As the morning was now 
 far advanced, and they had no fresh provisions on board, they 
 requested the rajah's permission to buy a small hog, and 
 some rice, and to order his people to dress the dinner. 
 He very obligingly replied that if they could eat victuals 
 dressed by his subjects, which he could scarcely suppose, 
 he would do himself the honour of entertaining them. A 
 dinner being thus procured, the captain sent off the boat 
 to bring liquor from the ship. It was ready about five 
 o'clock, and after they were seated on mats, which were spread 
 on the floor, it was served in six-and-thirty baskets. When 
 dinner was ended, of which the rajah declined to partake, 
 pleading the custom of his country, the captain invited him 
 to drink wine with them, but he excused himself, saying, the 
 man who entertained his guests should never get drunk with 
 them. The prime minister and Mr. Lange were of the party, 
 and the English made a luxurious meal. The pork and rice 
 were excellent, and the broth not to be despised ; but the 
 spoons made of leaves were so small, that few had patience 
 to use them. When the wine had circulated some time, they 
 took an opportunity to inquire after the buffaloes and sheep, of 
 which they had not yet heard a syllable, though they were to have 
 been at the beach early in the morning. Mr. Lange informed 
 the captain that, in a letter which he pretended to have received 
 from the governor of Concordia, instructions were given that 
 if the ship should touch at this island, and be in want of 
 provisions, she should be supplied, but he was not to permit 
 her to remain longer than was necessary ; nor were any large 
 presents to be made to the natives of low rank, but that any 
 trifling civilities received from the Indians might be acknow- 
 ledged by a present of beads, or other articles of very small 
 value. It is probable that the whole of this story was a 
 
ii6 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 fiction, and that by precluding our liberality to the natives, the 
 Dutchman hoped more easily to fill his own pockets. In the 
 evening they were informed that a few sheep had been brought 
 to the beach, which had been driven away before the captain 
 could procure money from the ship to pay for them. Some 
 fowls, however, were bought, and a large quantity of syrup, 
 made of the juice of the palm-tree. This, though infinitely 
 superior to molasses or treacle, sold at a very low price. 
 Vexed at being thus disappointed, they remonstrated with 
 Mr. Lange, who said, had they gone down to the beach them- 
 selves, they might have purchased what they pleased ; but 
 that the natives were afraid of being imposed upon by the 
 seamen with counterfeit money. Although this story was 
 not credited, Captain Cook repaired to the beach, but no 
 cattle were to be seen, nor were any at hand to be bought. 
 During his absence, Lange told Mr. Banks that the Indians 
 were offended that gold had not been offered, without which 
 nothing could be bought, but Mr. Banks declined holding 
 further conversation with a man who had been guilty of such 
 repeated falsehoods, and left him abruptly. 
 
 On the 2oth Dr. Solander went on shore with Captain 
 Cook, and while the former went up to the town to speak to 
 Lange, the captain remained on the beach with the view of 
 purchasing provisions. Here he met with an old Indian, 
 who appeared to have some authority, and had among the 
 crew been distinguished by the name of the prime minister. In 
 order to en^^age this man in their interest, the captain 
 presented him with a spy-glass. Nothing but a small buffalo 
 was offered to be sold, and the price asked was five guineas, 
 nearly twice its value. Three, however, were offered, which 
 the dealer thought a good price, but said that he must ac- 
 quaint the king with what had been bid before he could strike 
 the bargain. A messenger was immediately dispatched to 
 inform the rajah, who, on his return, brought word that not 
 less than five guineas would be taken. The captain resolved 
 to give this sum, and a second messenger was sent. During 
 his absence Dr. Solander was seen coming from the town, 
 followed by about a hundred men, some of whom w^ere armed 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 117 
 
 with muskets and others with lances, and upon inquiring 
 into the meaning of this hostile appearance, the doctor said 
 that Lange stated that the people would not trade with them 
 because they had refused to give more than half the value 
 for their commodities, and that all trade would be prohibited 
 after that day. 
 
 The English gentlemen had no doubt but that this order 
 of the rajah was a contrivance of Lange, and while they were 
 debating how to act in this critical conjuncture, anxious to 
 bring the affair to a speedy issue, Lange's adherents began 
 to drive away such of the natives as had brought palm-syrup 
 and fowls to sell, and others who were now bringing sheep 
 and buffaloes to the market. 
 
 At this juncture, Captain Cook, happening to look at the 
 old man who had been distinguished by the name of prime 
 minister, imagined he saw in his features a disapprobation 
 of the present proceedings ; and willing to improve the 
 advantage, he grasped the Indian's hand, and gave him an 
 old broadsword. This well-timed present produced all the 
 good effects that could be wished ; the prime minister was 
 enraptured with this honourable mark of distinction, and the 
 whole business was now accomplished. The natives, eager 
 to supply whatever was wanted, brought their cattle for sale, 
 and the market was soon stocked. For the first two buffaloes 
 Captain Cook gave ten guineas, but he afterwards purchased 
 them by exchange, giving a musket for each, and at this 
 rite he might have bought any number he thought proper. 
 There remained no doubt but that Lange had a profit out 
 of the two that were sold, and that his reason for saying 
 that the natives would take nothing but gold for their cattle 
 was, that he might the more easily share in the produce. 
 Captain Cook purchased of the natives of this island some 
 hundred gallons of palm syrup, a small quantity of garlic, 
 a large number of eggs, some limes and cocoa-nuts, thirty 
 dozen of fowls, three hogs, six sheep, and nine buffaloes. 
 Having obtained these necessary articles, they now prepared 
 for sailing from this island, which is named Savu, and is 
 situated in 10^ 35' S. lat. and 237'^ 30' W. long. 
 
ii8 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 About two years before the Endeavour was in these 
 seas, a French ship was wrecked on the coast of Timor. 
 She had been lodged on the rocks several days, when the 
 wind broke her up, and the captain, with the greater 
 part of the seamen, was drowned ; but the lieutenant 
 and about eighty men, having reached the shore, travelled 
 across the country of Concordia, where their immediate 
 wants were relieved, and they afterwards returned to the 
 wreck, in company with some Dutchmen and Indians, who 
 assisted them in recovering all their chests of bullion and 
 other effects. This done, they returned to Concordia, where 
 they remained seven weeks ; but during this interval death 
 made such havoc among them, that not above half their 
 number lived to return to their native country. 
 
 On the 2 1 St of September the Endeavour got under weigh, 
 and proceeded to the westward. On the 28th they steered all 
 day north-west, with the view of making the island of Java; 
 and on the 30th Captain Cook took possession of the log- 
 book and all the journals he could find of the officers, petty 
 officers, and seamen, upon whom he strictly enjoined secrecy 
 with respect to where they had been. At seven in the evening 
 they had thunder and lightning, and at twelve, by the light of 
 the flashes, saw the west end of Java. 
 
 On the 2nd of October they were close in with the coast 
 of Java, along which they now steered. In the forenoon a 
 boat was sent ashore, in order to procure some fruit for 
 Tupia, who was at this time extremely ill. The people re- 
 turned with four cocoa-nuts and a small bunch of plantains, 
 for which they paid a shilling, and also herbage for the cattle. 
 The country had a delightful appearance, being everywhere 
 covered with trees, which looked like one continuous wood. 
 About eleven o'clock they saw two Dutch East Indiamen, 
 from whom they heard that the Swallow had reached the 
 English Channel in safety, having been at Batavia about two 
 years before. 
 
 At six o'clock in the evening of the 3rd, the country boats 
 came alongside, bringing birds, monkeys, and other articles, 
 but they asked such high prices that little was purchased. 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 119 
 
 The captain, indeed, gave two dollars for twenty-five fowls 
 and a Spanish dollar for a turtle, which weighed about six-and- 
 thirty pounds. The master of the Dutch packet came on 
 board, and brought with him two books, in one of which he 
 desired one of the officers would write down the name of the 
 ship and her commander ; the place from whence she came ; 
 tD what port bound ; with other particulars relating to the 
 crew, for the information of any Englishmen who might come 
 after. In the other book, the master him€elf entered the 
 name of the ship and its captain, in order to transmit them 
 to the governor and council of the Indies. Mr. Hicks having 
 written the name of the ship, only added "from Europe." 
 The master of the packet took notice of this, but said that he 
 was satisfied with anything they thought fit to write, it being 
 intended solely for the information of his friends. 
 
 On the 5th they made several attempts to sail, and as often 
 came to an anchor, but at length the Endeavour held her 
 course till the next morning, when, on account of the rapidity 
 of the current, the anchor was dropped again. They weighed 
 anchor and brought to several times till the 8th, when they 
 anchored near a little island, not laid down in any chart on 
 board, called the Milles Isles. Messrs. Banks and Solander 
 having landed upon it, collected a few plants, and shot a bat, 
 which was a yard long, measuring from the extreme points 
 of the wings. 
 
 Soon after the gentlemen returned to the ship some Malays 
 came alongside, in a boat, bringing with them dried fish and 
 turtle for sale; one of the turtles, which weighed nearly 150 
 pounds, they sold for a dollar. The ship made but little way 
 till night, when, the land-breeze springing up, they sailed to 
 the E.S.E., and on the following day came to an anchor 
 in the roadstead of Batavia. The Endeavour had no sooner 
 anchored than a ship was observed, with a broad pennant 
 flying, from which a boat was dispatched to demand the 
 name of the vessel with that of the commander. To these 
 inquiries Captain Cook gave such answers as he thought 
 proper, and the officer who commanded the boat departed. 
 This gentleman, and the crew that attended him, were so 
 
I20 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 worn out by the unhealthiness of the climate that it was 
 apprehended many deaths would follow among the crew; 
 yet there was no invalid on board the Endeavour except the 
 Indian, Tupia. The ship had become so leaky that she 
 made, on an average, 9 inches of water in an hour ; part of 
 her false keel was gone ; one of her pumps was totally useless, 
 and the rest so much decayed that they could not last long. 
 The officers and seamen concurring in opinion that the ship 
 could not safely put to sea in this condition, the captain 
 resolved to solicit permission to heave her down ; but as he 
 had learned that this must be done in writing, he drew up a 
 petition and had it translated into Dutch. 
 
 On Wednesday, October the loth, the captain and the 
 rest of the gentlemen went on shore, and applied to the only 
 English resident at Batavia ; this gentleman, whose name was 
 Leith, received his countrymen in the politest manner, and 
 entertained them at dinner with great hospitality. In the 
 afternoon the captain attended the governor-general, who 
 received him politely, and told him to wait on the council the 
 next morning, when his petition should be laid before them, 
 and everything that he solicited should be granted. Late in 
 the evening of this day there happened a most terrible storm ' 
 of thunder and lightning, accompanied with very heavy rain, 
 by which a Dutch East Indiaman was greatly damaged. 
 The Eftdeavoiir, which was a small distance from the Dutch 
 ship, escaped without damage, owing, most probably, to an 
 electrical chain which conducted the lightning over the 
 vessel. A sentry on board the Endeavour^ who was charg- 
 ing his musket at the time of the storm, had it shaken out 
 of his hand and the ramrod broken in pieces. The elec- 
 trical chain looked like a stream of fire, and the ship sustained 
 a very violent shock. 
 
 On the nth Captain Cook waited on the gentlemen of the 
 council, who informed him that all his requests should be 
 complied with. 
 
 Tupia had hitherto continued on board on account of his 
 disorder, which was of the bilious kind, but he persisted in 
 refusing every medicine that was offered him. Mr. Banks, 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 121 
 
 who had hired a small, house on shore, now sent for him in 
 hopes that he might recover his health. While in the ship, 
 and even in the boat, he was exceedingly listless and low- 
 spirited, but he no sooner entered the town than he seemed as if 
 reanimated. The houses, the carriages, streets, people, and a 
 multiplicity of other objects, excited his astonishment. But if 
 Tupia was astonished at the scene, his boy Tayeto was per- 
 fectly enraptured, dancing along the streets in a kind of 
 ecstacy, and* examining every object with a restless curiosity. 
 Tupia remarked particularly the variety of dresses worn by 
 the passing multitude, concerning which he made several 
 inquiries. Being informed that here were people of different 
 nations, each of whom wore the habit of his respective 
 country, he desired that he might conform to the custom, and 
 appear in that of Otaheite. Some South Sea cloth being 
 sent for from the ship, he dressed himself with great expedi- 
 tion and dexterity. The people of Batavia, who had seen an 
 Indian brought thither in M. Bougainville's ship, named 
 Otourou, mistook Tupia for that person, and frequently asked 
 if he was not the same. The captain found an unexpected 
 difficulty in procuring money for the expenses that would be 
 incurred by refitting the Endeavour^ private persons having 
 neither the abiHty nor inclination to advance the sum re- 
 quired ; he therefore sent a written appHcation to the 
 governor himself, who ordered a supply to the captain out 
 of the Company's treasury. 
 
 Thursday, the i8th, alter a delay of some days, they sailed 
 to Ourust, and laid the ship alongside of the wharf on 
 Cooper s Island, in order to take out her stores. After little 
 more than nine days they began to feel the fatal effects of 
 the climate. Tupia sunk on a sudden, and grew every day 
 worse and worse. Tayeto, his boy, was seized with inflam- 
 mation of the lungs. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were 
 attacked with fever, and two servants of the former became 
 very ill ; in short, almost every person, both on board and 
 on shore, fell sick in a few days, owing, as was imagined, to 
 the low swampy situation of the place, and the numberless 
 dirty canals that intersect the town in all directions. 
 
122 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 By the 26th few of the crew were able to do duty. Tupia 
 desired to be removed to the ship, in hopes of breathing a 
 freer air. However, this could not be done, as she was 
 unrigged, and preparing to be laid down at the careening 
 place. On the 28th, however, Mr. Banks conveyed him to 
 Cooper's Island, and a tent was pitched for him in a situation 
 where the sea and land breezes might blow over him. 
 
 On the 5th of November died Mr. Monkhouse,the surgeon, 
 whose loss was severely felt, for not only was he a sensible, 
 skilful man, but his death occurred at a time when his abilities 
 were most wanted. Dr. Solander was just able to attend his 
 funeral, but Mr. Banks in his turn was confined to his bed. 
 The power of disease, from the pestiferous air of the country, 
 daily gained strength. Several Malay servants were hired to 
 attend the sick, but they had so little sense either of duty or 
 humanity, that the patient was obliged frequently to get out 
 of bed to seek them. 
 
 On the 9th the Indian boy, Tayeto, paid the debt of nature, 
 and poor Tupia was so affected at the loss, that it was 
 evident he could not long survive him. The ship's bottom 
 having been carefully examined, it was found to be in a 
 worse condition than had been apprehended. The false keel 
 was in a great measure gone ; the main keel was injured in 
 many places ; much of the sheathing was torn off, and 
 several planks were greatly damaged : the worms, also, had 
 made their way quite into the timber ; yet in this condition 
 the Endeavour had sailed many hundred leagues, in seas 
 where navigation is as dangerous as in any part of the globe. 
 
 Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks were now so worn down by 
 their disorders that their medical attendant declared they 
 had no chance of recovery but by removing into the country. 
 A house was therefore hired for them, about two miles from 
 the town ; and they bought two Malay women, who, from 
 the tenderness of their sex, became good nurses. While 
 these gentlemen were taking measures for the recovery of 
 their health, Tupia sunk under his disorder and the loss of 
 his boy, Tayeto, whom he loved with the tenderness of a 
 pare it. When Tayeto was first seized with the fatal disorder 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 123 
 
 he seemed sensible of his approaching end, and frequently 
 said to those that were about him, " See, my friends, I am 
 dying." He was very tractable, and took any medicine that 
 was offered him. They were both buried in the island of 
 Edam. 
 
 During the night of the 25th there fell a shower of rain 
 for the space of four hours, such as the voyagers had scarcely 
 ever remembered. The water poured through every part of 
 Mr. Banks' house, and the lower apartments admitted a 
 stream sufficient to turn a mill. As this gentleman was 
 now greatly restored to health, he went to Batavia the 
 following day. About the 26th of November the westerly 
 monsoon set in, blowing, in the daytime, from the north or 
 north-west, and from the south-west during the night. 
 Previous to this there had been violent showers of rain 
 for several nights. The mosquitoes and gnats now began 
 to swarm in immense numbers, rising from the puddles of 
 water like bees from a hive. The frogs also kept up a per- 
 petual croaking in the ditches, a certain sign that the wet 
 season was commenced, and that daily rain might be expected. 
 
 The E7ideavoiir being repaired, the sick people received 
 on board her, and the greater' part of her water and stores 
 taken in, she sailed from Ourust on the 8th of December, 
 and anchored in Batavia roads. Twelve days were employed 
 in receiving the remainder of her provisions, water, and 
 other necessaries, though the business would have been 
 done in much less time but that some of the crew died, 
 and the majority of the survivors were so ill as to be unable 
 to give their assistance. 
 
 On the 5th Captain Cook took leave of the governor and 
 some other gentlemen who had showed him attention ; but 
 at this juncture an incident occurred that might have produced 
 consequences by no means desirable. A sailor, belonging to 
 one of the Dutch ships in the roads of Batavia, deserted from 
 the vessel, and entered himself on board the Endeavour. 
 The captain of the Dutch ship having made application to 
 the governor, claiming the delinquent as a subject of the 
 States-General, the governor issued his order for the restora- 
 
124 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 tion of the man. When this order was deHvered to the British 
 officer, he said the man should be given up if he were a 
 Dutchman. As the captain was at this time on shore, and 
 did not intend going on board till the following day, he gave 
 the Dutch officer a note to the lieutenant who commanded 
 on board the Endeavour to deliver the deserter on the con- 
 dition above mentioned. On the following day the Dutchman 
 waited on Captain Cook, informing him that the lieutenant 
 had absolutely refused to give up the seaman, saying he was 
 an Irishman, and, of course, a subject of his Britannic Majesty. 
 Captain Cook applauded the conduct of his officer, and added 
 that it could not be expected that he should deliver up an 
 English subject. The Dutch officer then said he was autho- 
 rised by the governor to demand the fugitive as a Danish 
 subject, adding that his name was entered in the ship's 
 books as having been born at Elsinore. To this Captain 
 Cook very properly replied that the governor must have 
 been mistaken when he gave this order for delivering the 
 deserter, who had his option whether he would serve the 
 Dutch or the English ; but in compliment to the governor, 
 the man should be given up as a favour, if he appeared 
 to be a Dane, but that in this case he should by no 
 means be demanded as a right; and that he would cer- 
 tainly keep him if he appeared to be a subject of the 
 crown of Great Britain. The Dutchman now took his 
 leave, and had not been long gone before the captain received 
 a letter from the commanding officer on board, containing 
 full proof that the man was an English subject. This letter 
 the captain carried to the Dutch officer, desiring him to lay 
 it before the governor, and to inform him that the man should 
 not be delivered up on any terms whatever. This spirited 
 conduct on the part of Captain Cook had the desired effect, 
 and thus the matter ended. 
 
 The captain, attended by Mr. Banks and the other gentle- 
 men, who had hitherto lived in the town, now repaired on 
 board the ship, which got under weigh the next morning. 
 The Endeavour was saluted by the lort and by the Elgin 
 East Indiaman, which then lay in the roads ; but soon after 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE, 125 
 
 these compliments were returned, the sea-breeze setting in, 
 they were obliged to come to anchor. Since the arrival of 
 the ship in Batavia roads, every person belonging to her had 
 been ill, except the sailmaker, who was more than seventy 
 years old, and who had been drunk every day they remained 
 there. The Endeavotcr buried seven of her people at 
 Batavia, viz., Tupia and his boy, three of the sailors, the 
 servant of Mr, Green the astronomer, and the surgeon ; and 
 at the time of the vessel's sailing, forty of the crew were sick, 
 and the rest so enfeebled by their late illness as to be 
 scarcely able to do their duty. 
 
 Batavia is built on the bank of a large bay, something 
 more than twenty miles from the Straits of Sunda, on the 
 north side of the island of Java. Several small rivers which 
 rise forty miles up the country, in the mountains of Blaeuwen 
 Berg, discharge themselves into the sea at this place, having 
 first intersected the town in different directions. There are 
 wide canals of nearly stagnant water in almost every street, 
 and as the banks of the canals are planted with trees, the 
 effect is very agreeable ; but these trees and canals combine 
 to render the air pestilential. Some of the rivers are navi- 
 gable more than thirty miles up the country ; and, indeed, 
 the Dutch appear to have chosen this spot, for the sake of 
 water carriage, in which convenience Batavia exceeds every 
 place in the world, except the towns of Holland. 
 
 The town is entered by two drawbridges; in the north-east 
 corner is a castle, and no persons are permitted to walk on 
 the ramparts. 
 
 Apartments are provided in this castle for the governor- 
 general and all the council. In the castle are likewise a 
 number of storehouses, in which the effects of the Dutch 
 company are deposited. They have in their possession large 
 quantities of gunpowder, which is kept in different places, 
 in order that the lightning may not destroy the whole stock 
 at once ; a large number of cannon are likewise laid up 
 within the castle. There are a great many forts built in 
 different parts of the country, several miles distant from 
 Batavia, and there are also a number of fortified houses. 
 
126 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 The island of Java produces horses, buffaloes, sheep, goats, 
 and hogs. The horned cattle of the country are different 
 from those of Europe, and are quite lean, but the flesh is of a 
 very fine grain. The Chinese and the natives of Java eat 
 the buffalo's flesh, which the Dutch generally refuse, being 
 impressed with an idea that it produces fever. The sheep 
 are hairy, like goats, and have long ears ; they are mostly 
 found to be tough and ill flavoured. The hogs, especially 
 those of the Chinese stock, are very fine food, and so fat, 
 that the lean is separately sold to the butchers, who are 
 Chinese ; the fat they melt, and sell to their countrymen to 
 be eaten with rice. 
 
 The Portuguese shoot the wild hogs and deer, which are 
 sold at a moderate price, and are good eating ; the goats 
 are as indifferent as the sheep. The waters around Batavia 
 abound in fish of many varieties. Very large lizards are 
 common in the island, and Mr. Banks shot one five feet long, 
 which, being dressed, proved very agreeable to the taste. 
 
 The inhabitants of Java are Mohammedans, and hence do 
 not drink wine publicly ; but in private few of them will re- 
 fuse it. They also chew opium, whose intoxicating qualities 
 prove its recommendation to the natives of India and China. 
 
 On Thursday, the 27th of December, 1770, the Eitdeavoiir 
 left the harbour of Batavia, and stood oiit to sea. On the 
 29th, after much delay by contrary winds, they weathered 
 Pulo Pare, and stood for the mainland. On the same day 
 they passed a small island between Batavia and Bantam 
 called Man-eater's Island. 
 
 On the morning of New Year's Day, Tuesday, January i, 
 1 77 1, they steered for the Java shore, and continued their 
 course, as the wind permitted, till three o'clock in the 
 afternoon of the 5th, when they cast anchor on the south- 
 east side of Prince's Island, to recruit their stores and pro- 
 cure provisions for the sick, many of whom were much 
 worse than they were at their departure from Batavia. Mr. 
 Banks and Dr. Solander, accompanied by the captain and 
 other gentlemen, went ashore. They met upon the beach 
 some Indians, by whom they were conducted to one who 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 127 
 
 they said was their king. Mr. Banks paid this potentate a 
 visit on the following evening, and was received very gra- 
 ciously at his palace, in the middle of a rice-field, notwith- 
 standing his majesty was busily employed in dressing his own 
 supper. Monday, the 7th, the Indians resorted to the trading 
 place with fowls, fish, monkeys, small deer, and some vege- 
 tables ; but no turtle appeared till the next day, Tuesday, the 
 8th, after which some were brought to market every day. 
 
 Friday, the nth, Mr. Banks having received intelligence 
 from a servant he had hired at Batavia, that the Indians of 
 this island had a town situated near the shore, to the west- 
 ward, he determined to go in search of it. With this view he 
 set out in the morning, accompanied by the second lieutenant ; 
 and apprehending his visit might not be agreeable to the 
 natives, he told such of them as he met that he was in search 
 of plants, which was, indeed, also true. An old man guided 
 them to the town, the name of which is Samadang. It con- 
 sisted of about four hundred houses, divided by a broadish 
 river into two parts, one called the old and the other the new 
 town. When they entered the former, they were accosted 
 by several Indians, whom they had seen at the trading place, 
 and one of whom undertook to carry them over to the new 
 town at twopence per head. The bargain being made, they 
 embarked in two small canoes, placed alongside each other, 
 and lashed together to prevent their upsetting. They 
 landed safely, though not without some difficulty ; and when 
 they came to the new town, the people paid them every 
 mark of cordial friendship, showing them the houses of 
 their king and principal people. Few of the houses were 
 open at this time, the inhabitants having taken up their 
 residence in the rice-grounds, to defend their crops against 
 the birds and monkeys, who, without this necessary pre 
 caution, would destroy them. When their curiosity was 
 satisfied, they hired a large sailing boat for two rupees, value 
 four shillings, which conveyed them to the ship in time to 
 dine upon one of the small deer, weighing only forty pounds, 
 which proved to be exceeding good and savoury food. On 
 Sunday, the 13th, having nearly completed their wood and 
 
128 COOICS VOYAGES. 
 
 water, Mr. Banks took leave of his majesty, to whom he 
 made several trifling presents, and at parting gave him two 
 quires of paper, which he graciously accepted. 
 
 On Thursday, the 15th, they weighed, with a light breeze 
 at north-east, and stood out to sea. Prince's Island, where 
 they had passed about ten days, is a small island, situated 
 in the western mouth of the Straits of Sunda ; it is woody, 
 a very small portion having been cleared. 
 
 The inhabitants are Javanese, and their rajah is subject to 
 the Sultan of Bantam. They profess the M ohammedan religion, 
 but not a mosque was seen in the whole island. While the 
 Endeavour lay there, they kept the fast called by the Turks 
 Ramadan with extreme rigour, not one of them touching 
 a morsel of victuals ; nor would they chew their betel till 
 sunset. 
 
 The Endeavour held on her course during the month of 
 February, and made the best of her way for the Cape of Good 
 Hope. The fatal seeds of disease the people had imbibed 
 at Batavia began now to appear in dysenteries and low 
 fevers. In a short time the ship was little better than a 
 hospital, and almost every night a corpse was committed to 
 the sea. Mr. Banks was among the number of the sick, and 
 for some time his life was despaired of. In the course of six 
 weeks they buried Mr. Sporting, a gentleman of Mr. Banks' 
 retinue ; Mr. Parkinson, his natural history painter ; Mr. 
 Green, the astronomer ; the boatswain, the carpenter and 
 his mate, Mr. Monkhouse, the sailmaker and his assistant, 
 the cook, the corporal of marines, two of the carpenter's 
 crew, a midshipman, and nine sailors ; in all, three-and- 
 twenty persons, besides the seven that had been buried in 
 Batavia ; such was the havoc disease had made among the 
 ship's company, though they omitted no means which might 
 prevent the infection from spreading. 
 
 Friday, the 15th of March, about ten o'clock P.M., the ship 
 came to an anchor off the Cape of Good Hope. Captain 
 Cook repaired immediately to the governor, who cheerfully 
 promised him every refreshment the country afforded ; on 
 which a house was hired for the sick, and it was agreed that 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 129 
 
 they should be lodged and boarded for two shillings each 
 man a day. 
 
 At the time the Ejideauour lay at the Cape of Good Hope, 
 the HoHi^hton Indiaman sailed for England. She had buried 
 nearly forty of her crew, and when she left the Cape, had 
 many of her hands in a helpless condition, occasioned by the 
 scurvy. Other ships also experienced a proportionate loss 
 by sickness, so that the sufferings of the Endeavour were 
 comparatively light, considering her long absence from 
 England. They continued at the Cape till the 13th of April, 
 to recover the sicl:, procure stores, and do some necessary 
 work upon the ship and rigging ; and on Sunday, the 14th, 
 having taken leave of the governor, unmoored, and got ready 
 to sail. 
 
 On the following Thursday died Mr. Robert Molineux, a 
 promising youth. They continued their voyage without any 
 remarkable incident, and on Monday, the 29th, crossed the 
 first meridian, having circumnavigated the globe from E. to 
 W., and consequently lost a day, for which, upon correcting 
 their reckoning at Batavia, they made allowance. On 
 Monday, the ist of May, they came to anchor before James's 
 Fort, in the island of St. Helena, and Mr. Banks employed 
 his time in visiting the most remarkable places and in sur- 
 veying every object of note. 
 
 St. Helena is situated almost midway between Africa and 
 America, being twelve hundred miles distant from the former, 
 and eighteen hundred from the latter. It was so named by 
 the Portuguese, who discovered it on St. Helen's day. As 
 the Ejideavoiir approached the island on the windward side, 
 it appeared like a rude heap of rocks, bounded by precipices 
 of an amazing height. Sailing along shore, they came near 
 the huge cliffs which seemed to overhang the ship. At length 
 they opened Chapel Valley, in which lies the town. The 
 sides of the valley are as naked as the cliffs next the sea ; but 
 the bottom is slightly covered with herbage. 
 
 Notwithstanding the land appears a barren rock on every 
 side, yet on the top it is covered with a fine layer of earth, 
 producing grain, fruits, and herbs of various kinds; and the 
 
136 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 country, after ascending the rock, is diversified with rising 
 hills and plains, plantations of fruit trees, and kitchen 
 gardens, among which the houses of the natives are inter- 
 spersed ; and in the open fields are herds of cattle grazing, 
 some of which are fatted to supply the shipping, and the rest 
 furnish the dairies with milk, butter, and cheese. Hogs, 
 goats, turkeys, and all manner of poultry also abound, and 
 the seas are well stored with fish. Besides grapes, they have 
 plantains, bananas, and such other fruit as hot countries 
 usually produce. They also raise kidney beans, potatoes, 
 and yams. 
 
 In the year 1701 there were upon the island about 100 
 families, most of them English, or descended from English 
 parents. 
 
 The Portuguese, who discovered this island in 1502, stored 
 it with hogs, goats, and poultry, and used to touch at it for 
 water and fresh provisions in their return from India ; but 
 we do not find they ever planted a colony there ; or, if they 
 did, having deserted it afterwards, the English East India 
 Company took possession of the island a.d. 1600, and held 
 it till 1673, without interruption, when the Dutch took it by 
 surprise. However, the English, commanded by Captain 
 Munden, recovered it again within the space of one year, 
 and took three Dutch East India ships that lay in the roads 
 at the time. The Dutch had fortified the landing-place, 
 and placed batteries of great guns to prevent a descent, but 
 the English being acquainted with a small creek where only 
 two men could go abreast, climbed up to the top of the rocks 
 in the night time, and appearing next morning at the backs 
 of the Dutch, they threw down their arms without striking a 
 blow ; but this creek has been since fortified, so that there is 
 now no place where an enemy can make a descent with any 
 probability of success. 
 
 The affairs of the East India Company are managed here 
 by a governor, deputy-governor, and storehouse-keeper, who 
 have certain settled salaries allowed, besides a public table 
 well furnished, to which all commanders, masters of ships, 
 and eminent passengers are welcome. 
 
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 131 
 
 The natives sometimes call the result of their deliberations, 
 severe impositions, and though relief might perhaps be had 
 from the Company in England, yet the unavoidable delays in 
 returning answers to addresses at that distance puts the 
 aggrieved under great hardship. On the other hand, were not 
 the situation of this island very serviceable to our homeward- 
 bound East India ships, the constant trouble and expense 
 would induce the Company to abandon it ; for though it is 
 furnished with the conveniences of life, the merchants find 
 no other profitable commodities there. 
 
 The children and descendants of the white people of St. 
 Helena are remarkable for their ruddy complexions and 
 robust constitutions. Their healthiness may, in general, be 
 ascribed to the following causes. They live on the top of a 
 mountain always open to the sea-breezes that constantly 
 blow here ; they are usually employed in the most healthful 
 exercises of gardening and husbandry ; the island is frequently 
 refreshed with moderate cooling showers, and no noxious 
 fens or salt marshes annoy them. They are accustomed 
 also to climb the steep hill between the town in Chapel 
 Valley and their plantations. This hill is so steep, that, 
 having a ladder in the centre, they call it Ladder-hill ; and as 
 this cannot be avoided without going three or four miles 
 round, they seldom want air or exercise — the great pre- 
 servatives of health. As to the genius and temper of these 
 people, they seemed to be the most hospitable ever met with 
 of English extraction, having scarce any tincture of avarice 
 or ambition. 
 
 Having sufficiently recruited their stores, on Saturday, the 
 4th of May, the Endeavour weighed and sailed out of the 
 roadstead in company with the Poriiand man-of-war and her 
 convoy, consisting of twelve sail of East Indiamen. With 
 this fleet they continued their course for England until Friday, 
 the loth, when, perceiving they were outsailed. Captain Cook 
 made the signal to speak with the Portland, upon which 
 Captain Elliot came on board the Endeavour j a letter for 
 the Admiralty was then delivered to him, with a box con- 
 taining the common log-books of the ship, and the journals 
 
132 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 of some of the officers. The Endeavour did not lose sight of 
 the fleet till Thursday, the 23rd. About one o'clock in the after- 
 noon of that day they lost the first lieutenant, Mr. Hicks, an 
 active, skilful, and judicious officer. He died of consumption, of 
 which lingering disorder he discovered some symptoms when 
 he left England, so that it might be said that he was dying 
 the whole voyage ; his decline was very gradual till he arrived 
 at Batavia, from whence, to- the time of his dissolution, the 
 disease gained strength daily. The whole ship's company 
 attended the funeral, and his body was committed to the 
 sea with the usual ceremonies. The next day the captain 
 appointed Mr. Charles Gierke, a young officer, to act in the 
 room of Mr. Hicks. They now drew near their desired 
 haven, and held on their course without any material occur- 
 rence, till Monday, the loth of June, when, to their great joy, 
 Nicholas Young, the boy who first discovered New Zealand, 
 sighted land from the mast-head, which proved to be the 
 Lizard. The next day, being Tuesday, the nth, they pro- 
 ceeded up the Channel ; on Wednesday they passed Beachy 
 Head with the pleasing hope of soon seeing their relatives 
 and friends. At noon they were abreast of Dover, and about 
 three o'clock in the afternoon came to an anchor in the 
 Downs, after an absence of two years nine months and four- 
 teen days. 
 
THE 
 
 SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The discoveries made by Captain Cook in his first voyage, 
 when he circumnavigated the globe, ascertained that New 
 Zealand consisted of two islands, and explored an immense 
 tract of New Holland, now known as Australia, induced His 
 Majesty King George III. to project a second expedition, also 
 to be under the command of Captain Cook, and the Navy 
 Board was ordered to equip two such ships as were most suit- 
 able for the service. Accordingly two vessels were purchased 
 of Captain William Hammond, of Hull ; they were both 
 built at Whitby about sixteen months before, by the same 
 person who built the E7ideavo7cr, The larger of the two, 
 named the Resolution^ of 462 tons burden, was sent to 
 Deptford to be fitted out ; and the Adventure, a vessel 
 of 336 tons, was equipped at Woolwich. On the 28th of 
 November, 177 1, Captain Cook was appointed to the com- 
 mand of the Resolution, and Tobias Furneaux, who had been 
 second lieutenant with Captain Wallis, was promoted to the 
 command of the Adventure. The Resolution had 112 hands 
 on board, officers included, and the Adveftture had 81. 
 
 The two ships were ordered to be got in readiness with the 
 utmost expedition, and both the Navy and Victualling boards 
 paid unusual attention to their equipment. Indeed, Captain 
 Cook sailed with greater advantages in this expedition than 
 
134 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 any of his predecessors who had gone out before on voyages 
 of discovery. He had the frame of a vessel of twenty tons, 
 one for each ship, to serve occasionally, or upon any 
 emergency, as tenders. He had on board fishing-nets, lines, 
 and hooks of every kind ; he was supplied with innumerable 
 articles of small value, adapted to the commerce of the 
 tropical islands ; also additional clothing for the seamen, 
 particularly suited to a cold climate, to all which were added 
 the best instruments for astronomical and nautical obser- 
 vations, including four timepieces on Mr. Harrison's principle, 
 constructed by Messrs. Arnold and Kendal. And that nothing 
 might be wanting to procure information, and could tend to 
 the success of the voyage, Mr. William Hodges, a landscape 
 painter, was engaged for this important undertaking, and 
 also Mr. John Reinhold Foster and his son, both eminent 
 naturalists. Mr. William Wales, and Mr. William Bailey, 
 were likewise engaged to make astronomical observations ; 
 the former being placed by the Board of Longitude in the 
 Resolution, and Mr. Bailey in the Adventure. A number 
 of medals were also struck by order of the Lords of the 
 Admiralty, intended to be left as presents and memorials in 
 newly-discovered countries. 
 
 The two ships were victualled and provided with all 
 manner of necessaries for a three years' voyage, and all 
 the conveniences necessary for the preservation of health 
 during that time, were provided in abundance. 
 
 A voyage attended with such extraordinary preparations, 
 patronised by Parliament as well as assisted by the royal 
 bounty, and the preparations superintended by the first officers 
 of the Admiralty, the navy, and by Captain Cook himself, 
 might, with propriety, be pronounced the most important ever 
 performed in any age, or by any country ; and it may also be 
 asserted, with truth, that the able navigator selected by his 
 sovereign was equal to the task on which he was embarked. 
 Everyone who has read the account of his first voyage 
 cannot but admire his skill, his fortitude, his care of his 
 men ; his vigilance in attending to the minutest intimations 
 pf former navigators, and his perseverance amidst the dangers 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 135 
 
 and hardships of rigorous seasons ; in short, his conduct 
 throughout was beyond all praise, for while he kept every 
 man in strict subordination, he conciliated the affections of 
 all and secured their esteem. 
 
 Captain Cook received from the Board of Admiralty his 
 instructions, dated the 25th of June, the tenor and substance 
 of which were as follows : — That the Adventure was to be 
 under his command ; that the two ships were to proceed to 
 the island of Madeira, and from thence to the Cape of Good 
 Hope ; that having at this place refreshed the ship's com,- 
 panies, and supplied them with provisions and other neces- 
 saries, they were to make the best of their way to the south- 
 ward, in search of Cape Circumcision, which, by M. Bouvet, 
 is said to be in latitude 54° S., and in about 11° 20' E. longi- 
 tude, from the Royal Observatory at Greenwich. That if 
 they fell in with this cape. Captain Cook was to endeavour 
 by all means in his power to discover whether the same was 
 part of the supposed continent which had so much engaged 
 the attention of ditferent European powers, or only the pro- 
 montory of an island ; that, in either case, the gentlemen on 
 board the two ships were diligently to explore the same, to 
 the utmost extent possible, and make such observations as 
 might correspond with the grand object in view, and be 
 useful to either navigation or commerce. That they were to 
 proceed on new discoveries to the eastward or westward, as 
 the captain might judge most eligible, endeavouring only to 
 run into as high a latitude, and as near the South Pole as 
 possible. That whatever might be the result of their investi- 
 gations with respect to Cape Circumcision, they were to con- 
 tinue their surveys to the southward, and then to the east- 
 ward, either in search of the said continent, should it not 
 have been ascertained, or to make discoveries of such islands 
 as might be situated in the hitherto unexplored and unknown 
 parts of the southern latitudes. That, having circumnavi- 
 gated the globe, they were to return to Spithead by the way 
 of the Cape of Good Hope, and that to answer the intentions 
 of Government in this voyage as fully as possible, when the 
 season of the year rendered it unsafe to continue in high 
 
136 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 latitudes, they were to repair to some known port to the 
 northward ; and after having refitted, were to return again at 
 the proper season to the southward, in prosecution of new 
 discoveries there. It may not be amiss here to observe, that 
 these orders were not intended to cramp Captain Cook, who 
 was allowed, in case the Resolution should be lost, to continue 
 his voyage in the Adventure. To this end he had a strong 
 staff of officers ; he was not limited as to time ; in short, he 
 had ample power, full authority, and in all unforeseen cases 
 he was to proceed according to his own discretion, and act 
 entirely as he pleased. 
 
 A copy of the above instructions was transmitted to 
 Captain Furneaux, together with Captain Cook's orders, in 
 which he appointed, should the two ships be separated, the 
 island of Madeira for the first place of rendezvous. Port 
 Praya for the second, the Cape of Good Hope for the third, 
 and New Zealand for the fourth. 
 
 While they remained at Plymouth, Mr. Wales and Mr. 
 Bailey made observations on Drake's Island, when the 
 latitude was found to be 50° 21' 30" N., and the longitude 
 4° 20' W. of Greenwich ; whereby the true time for putting 
 the timepieces and watches in motion was ascertained. 
 This was done on the 13th of July, and they were set agoing 
 in the presence of the two astronomers, Captain Furneaux, 
 Captain Cook, and the two first lieutenants of the ships. 
 These had each of them keys of the boxes which contained 
 the watches, and were always to be present at the winding 
 them up, and comparing the one with the other, unless 
 prevented by indisposition. This day the ships' crews, 
 according to the custom of the navy, received two months' 
 wages in advance. As a further encouragement that they 
 might provide necessaries for the voyage, they were likewise 
 paid the wages due to them to the 28th of the preceding 
 May. 
 
 On Monday, the 13th of July, 1772, the ships left Plymouth. 
 As they stood off shore the wind increased, and the sea 
 ran so high that most of the seamen were affected with 
 sickness. When in sight of Cape Finisterre they met a 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE, 137 
 
 small French tartan, from Marseilles, freighted with flour 
 from Ferrol and Corunna, and gave to them a small 
 supply of fresh water, which they much wanted, having been 
 obliged to subsist on bread and wine. On the 22nd, in the 
 afternoon, they passed two Spanish men-of-war, one of which 
 fired a shot at the Advetiture^ to bring her to ; but on hailing 
 her, and being told they were king's ships, made an apology 
 and took their leave, wishing them a good voyage. On 
 Wednesday, the 29th, they anchored in Funchal roads, in 
 the island of Madeira. The captain went on shore, accom- 
 panied by the two Fosters, and were conducted by Mr. 
 Sills, a gentleman from the vice-consul, to the house of Mr. 
 Loughnans, a wealthy English merchant, who, during their 
 stay, assisted them with everything the island and his 
 house afforded. 
 
 The Madeira or Madera islands are only three in number, 
 namely, Madeira properly so called ; the island of Puerto, 
 or Porto Santo ; and Isla Deserta, or the Desolate Isle. 
 They were thus named from the principal island, which was 
 called by the Portuguese Madeira, signifying a wood or 
 forest, being overgrown with trees. Their discovery is due 
 to the spirit of adventure that animated the Portuguese in 
 the fifteenth century, though it is said that they were first 
 discovered by an Englishman of the name of Robert Machin, 
 in the reign of King Edward III. 
 
 John I., King of Portugal, having entered into a war with 
 the Moors, passed over into Africa with a formidable army, 
 and in the year 141 5 laid siege to and took Ceuta. In this 
 expedition he was accompanied by his sons, one of whom. 
 Prince Henry, took great delight in the study of mathe- 
 matics, particularly geography and navigation. Upon 
 this occasion he had a good opportunity of conversing 
 with the Moors and African Jews ; and informing himself 
 by their means, of the situation of several foreign countries, 
 the seas about them, and their coasts. 
 
 Hence grew an insatiable thirst for making new discoveries ; 
 and from this time he was determined to devote his attention 
 to the discovery of unknown countries. In consequence of 
 
138 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 which resolution he retired, after the reduction of Ceuta, to 
 the Algarves, where he founded a new town within a league 
 of Cape St. Vincent, erected a fort to defend it, and detef-" 
 mined to send out shi^ " from thence on voyages of discovery.- 
 The person he intend.-d to employ as a chief commander 
 upon these occasions was a gentleman of extraordinary 
 abilities, named Juan Gonsalvo Zarco, who became famous 
 not only for his maritime discoveries, but for being the 
 first person who introduced the use of artillery on board 
 ship. In 141 8 he discovered Puerto Santo, and in 1420 
 discovered Madeira itself, landing at a place covered over 
 with fennel, which in Portuguese language is called funcho ; 
 from thence the town of Funchal, or Funchiale, took its 
 name, being afterwards built on the same spot. 
 
 Juan Gonsalvo, after having viewed other parts of the 
 island, and finding daily new cause for admiration of the 
 beauties continually discovered, returned to Portugal, and 
 arrived at Lisbon in the end of August, 1420, without having 
 lost a single man in the whole enterprise ; and a day of 
 audience being appointed for him to make his report of his 
 voyage, the king gave the name of Madeira to the new 
 discovered island, on account of the great quantity of wood 
 found upon it. Soon after an order was made for Juan 
 Gonsalvo to return to Madeira in the ensuing spring, with 
 the title of Captain-Governor of Maderia, to which title the 
 heir of his family at present adds that of count. He ac- 
 cordingly set sail on his second voyage in May, 142 1, taking 
 with him the greater part of his family ; and arriving at 
 Madeira, cast anchor in the roads, till then called English 
 Port ; but Gonsalvo, in honour of the first discoverer, renamed 
 it Puerto de Machino, from which name it was corrupted to 
 Machico, which it now bears. He soon after laid the founda- 
 tion of the town of Funchal, which afterwards became famous; 
 and the altar of the new wooden church was dedicated to 
 St. Catherine by his wife Constantia, who was with him. 
 
 The island of Madeira, properly so called, is composed of 
 one continued hill of a wonderful height, extending from east 
 to west, the declivity of which on the south side is cultivated 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 139 
 
 and interspersed with vineyards ; and in the midst of this 
 slope the merchants have fixed their country seats, which 
 help to render the prospect very agreeable. 
 
 The ships departed from Madeira on the 1st of August, 
 and on the 9th crossed the Tropic of Cancer. 
 
 On Monday, the loth, they came to an anchor in Port 
 Praya, in the isle of St. Jago, one of the Cape de Verds. An 
 officer was sent on shore for leave to procure what necessaries 
 they wanted, which was readily granted ; and on his return 
 the ships saluted the fort with eleven guns. Here both the 
 ships were suppUed with plenty of good water ; they also 
 recruited their live stock, such as hogs, goats, and 
 poultry. 
 
 The island of St. Jago, or St. James's Island, is the most 
 fruitful of all the Cape de Verd islands. The principal town, 
 bearing the same name, stands on the slopes of the moun- 
 tains, between which a deep valley, 200 yards wide, runs 
 close to the sea. In that part of the valley nearest the sea 
 is a straggling street, with houses on each side, and a rivulet 
 of water flowing at the bottom, which empties itself into a 
 fine cove or sandy bay, where ships can ride with great safety. 
 A small fort stands near the landing-place, and not far from 
 it, a battery mounted with a few small cannon. 
 
 A tolerably large town is on the east side of the island 
 called Praya, where there is a good port, which is seldom 
 without ships, especially in peaceable times. In former 
 days East Indiamen, outward bound, used to touch at 
 this port to take in water and provisions, but they seldom 
 stopped here on their return to Europe. The town of Praya 
 does not contain any remarkable building, except a fort, 
 situated on the top of a hill, which commands the harbour. 
 
 On Friday, the 14th of August, both ships having got on 
 board a supply of refreshments and provisions, weighed 
 anchor and continued their voyage to the Cape of Good Hope. 
 On the 19th, one of the carpenter's mates fell overboard and 
 was drowned. He was sitting on one of the scuttles, from 
 whence it was supposed he fell. All endeavours to save him 
 were in vain, for he was not seen till the instant he sunk 
 
HO COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 under the ship's stern. His loss was much deplored by his 
 shipmates, as he was a sober man and a good workman. 
 
 On Thursday, the 20th, it rained heavily, and they filled 
 seven empty puncheons with fresh water. On the 27th one 
 of Captain Furneaux's petty officers died, but on board the 
 Resolution there was not one man sick, although much rain 
 fell, which in the tropics is a great promoter of sickness. 
 Captain Cook took every necessary precaution for the pre- 
 servation of health, by airing and drying the ship with fires 
 made between decks, and by making the crew air their bed- 
 ding and wash their clothes at every opportunity. 
 
 On Tuesday, the 8th of September, they crossed the Line in 
 longitude 8° W. Some of the crew, who had never passed 
 the Line before, were obliged to undergo the usual ceremony 
 of ducking, but others bought themselves off by paying the 
 required forfeit of brandy. 
 
 On Thursday, the 29th, at two o'clock P.M., they made 
 the land about Table Bay. They were visited by the master- 
 attendant of the fort, some other officers belonging to the 
 Company, and Mr. Brandt. This last gentleman brought 
 many articles that were very acceptable ; and the master- 
 attendant, as is customary, took an account of the two ships, 
 inquiring particularly if the smallpox was on board, a dis- 
 order dreaded above all others by the inhabitants of the 
 Cape, for which reason a surgeon always attends on these 
 visits. Captain Cook sent an officer to wait upon Baron 
 Plettenberg, the governor, to inform him of their arrival ; 
 and on the return of the officer with a polite message from 
 the governor, the English saluted the fort with eleven guns, 
 which comphment was acknowledged by the same number. 
 
 On the 22nd of November, having got everything on board, 
 and taken leave of the governor and other officers, who in a 
 most obliging manner had afforded all the necessary assist- 
 ance they required, they weighed and saluted the fort with 
 sixteen guns, which compliment was instantly returned. As 
 soon as they had cleared the land, ihey directed their course, 
 as ordered, to Cape Circumcision. As they were now ad- 
 vancing towards the Antarctic circle, and expected to en- 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 141 
 
 counter cold weather, the captain ordered the fresh water 
 to be husbanded as much as possible ; at the same time he 
 supplied each man with a dreadnought jacket and trousers, 
 allowed by the Admiralty, also "slops'' to such who wanted 
 them. 
 
 On the 29th a heavy storm came from the W.N.W., which 
 lasted, with a few intervals of moderate weather, for nearly a 
 week ; the sea ran very high, and frequently broke over the 
 ships, causing great discomfort to all on board. A boy in 
 the fore part of the ship hearing a noise of water running 
 among the chests, turned out of his bunk, and found the water 
 nearly up to his knees. Upon this all hands worked at the 
 pumps, but still the water increased, until at last it was dis- 
 covered to come in through a scuttle in the boatswain's store- 
 room. This gale, attended with hail and rain, continued till 
 the 8th with such fury that they could carry no sails ; and 
 being thus driven far to the eastward of their intended 
 course, not the least hope remained of reaching Cape 
 Circumcision. Their distress was augmented by the loss of 
 a great part of the live-stock they had brought from the 
 Cape. As the people felt the effects of the sudden transition 
 from warm to extreme cold weather, an addition was made 
 to the allowance of brandy in both ships. On the morning 
 of the 7th of December the rising sun gave a flattering 
 prospect of serene weather, but the expectations soon 
 vanished. The barometer fell unusually low, and by one 
 o'clock P.M. the wind blew with such violence from the 
 N.W. as to oblige them to strike the topgallant-masts. On 
 the 8th the gale was somewhat abated, but the sea ran too 
 high to carry more than the fore-topmast staysail. 
 
 On Wednesday, the 9th, at three A.M., Captain Cook wore 
 the ship to the southward. Showers of snow fell, with 
 squally weather. At eight, made signal for the Advenhire 
 to set sail. On the loth made another signal for her to 
 lead, and saw an iceberg to the westward. The weather 
 being hazy, Captain Cook, by signal, called the Adventure 
 under his stern, a fortunate circumstance, as the fog in- 
 creased so much that they could not discern an iceberg, 
 
14^ COOICS VOYAGES. 
 
 for which they were steering, till they were within a mile 
 of it. The sea broke very high against this iceberg, which 
 Captain Furneaux took for land, and therefore hauled off 
 from it, till he was called back by signal. It being now 
 necessary to proceed with great circumspection, they reefed 
 their topsails, and, upon sounding, found no ground with 
 1 50 fathoms. 
 
 On Monday, the 14th, a boat was hoisted out for two 
 gentlemen to make some observations and experiments. 
 While they were thus engaged, the fog increased so much 
 that they lost sight of both ships. Their situation was truly 
 alarming, as they were only in a small four-oared boat in an 
 immense ocean, surrounded with ice, utterly destitute of 
 provisions, and far from any habitable shore. They made 
 various efforts to be heard, and rowed about for some time 
 without effect ; they could not see the length of their boat, 
 nor hear any sound ; they had neither mast nor sail, and 
 only two oars. They determined to lie still, as the weather 
 was calm, and hoped that the ships would not sail out of 
 sight. They now heard a bell sounded at a distance, and 
 were at last taken up by the Adventtire. So great was the 
 thickness of the fog sometimes, that the ships had the 
 utmost difficulty to avoid running against the icebergs, with 
 which they were surrounded. There were two men on board 
 the Resolutio7i who had been in the Greenland trade, and 
 one had lain nine weeks, and the other six, stuck fast in a 
 field of ice. As the crew complained of the cold, their 
 jackets were lengthened with baize, and each of them had 
 a cap made of the same stuff. Scorbutic symptoms appear- 
 ing on some of the people, the surgeons gave them fresh 
 wort every day, made from the malt they took out for that 
 purpose 
 
 On the 27th they had a dead calm, and devoted the 
 opportunity to shooting petrels and penguins, which afforded 
 great sport. The plumage of the penguin is very thick, the 
 feathers long and narrow, and lie as close as scales, which 
 secures them against wet, in which they almost continually 
 live. Nature has likewise given them a thick skin, in order 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 143 
 
 to resist the perpetual winter of these inhospitable climates. 
 The petrels are likewise well provided against the severity of 
 the weather, and have an astonishing quantity of feathers, 
 two feathers instead of cne proceeding out of every root 
 
 They now had very bad weather, consisting of thick fogs, 
 rain, sleet, and snow, and were surrounded with great quanti- 
 ties of ice, and in constant danger of being injured by it. 
 
 On the 29th the commanders came to a resolution, pro- 
 vided they met with no impediment, to run as far west as 
 Cape Circumcision, since the sea seemed to be pretty clear of ice, 
 and the distance not more than eighty leagues. They steered 
 for an iceberg this day, intending to take some on board and 
 convert it into fresh water. They could not, however, take 
 up any of the loose ice, for the wind rose and made it 
 dangerous for the ships to remain among the ice ; besides 
 which, they discovered an immense field of ice to the north, 
 extending further than the eye could reach. 
 
 On the 1 2th of January, 1773, the gale abated, but there 
 fell much snow and sleet, which froze on the rigging of the 
 ships. The wind continued moderate the next day, and they 
 were favoured with a sight of the moon, which they had not 
 seen since they left the Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 On Friday, the 8th, they passed several icebergs, and in 
 the evening came to one which had a vast quantity of loose 
 ice about it, and the weather being moderate, they sent the 
 boats out to take up as much as they could. Large piles of 
 it were packed upon the quarter-deck and put into casks, 
 from which, after it was melied, they got water enough for 
 thirty days ; very little salt water adhered to the ice, which, 
 when melted, was fresh and good. They observed here 
 several white whales of an immense size. 
 
 On the 17th they crossed the Antarctic circle, and advanced 
 into the southern frigid zone, which to all former navigators 
 had remained impenetrable. In the afternoon they saw thirty- 
 eight icebergs, large and small. This immense field was 
 composed of different kinds of ice, such as field ice, so called 
 by the Greenland men, and packed ice. They saw several 
 whales playing about and large petrels. The latitude was 
 
144 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 now 67° 1 5' S., and not thinking it prudent to persevere in a 
 southerly direction, Captain Cook resolv^ed to go directly in 
 search of the land lately discovered by the French. 
 
 On the 29th several porpoises passed with amazing swift- 
 ness ; they had a large white spot on their sides, which came 
 almost up to their backs. 
 
 On the 31st they passed a large iceberg, which at the time 
 of their sailing by was tumbling to pieces with a loud report 
 like that of a cannon. 
 
 On the 4th of February there was a dense fog, and they 
 lost sight of the Adventure. They fired several signals, but 
 were not answered, and they feared that a separation had 
 taken place, though they could not well tell what had been 
 the cause of it. Captain Cook had directed Captain 
 Furneaux, in case of parting company, to cruise three days in 
 the place he last saw the Resolution. Accordingly he made 
 short boards, or tacks, and fired half-hour guns till the after- 
 noon of the 7th, when the weather cleared up, but the 
 Adventure was not to be seen in the limits of their horizon. 
 They lay to till the loth, firing guns and burning false fires at 
 night, but neither saw nor heard anything of the Adventure. 
 The crew universally regretted the loss of the Adve7iture^ 
 and constantly scanned the horizon with expressions of 
 concern that they were alone on this unexplored expanse. 
 
 On the 17th of March Captain Cook came to a resolution 
 to quit the high southern latitudes and to proceed to New 
 Zealand, to look for the Adventure and to refresh his people. 
 As the wind, which continued between the N. and W., would 
 not permit them to touch at Van Diemen's Land, they shaped 
 their course to New Zealand ; and being under no appre- 
 hension of meeting with any danger, the captain was not 
 backward in carrying sail. For the last three days the 
 mercury in the thermometer had risen to forty-six, and the 
 weather was quite mild. Seven or eight degrees of latitude 
 had made a surprising difference in the temperature of the 
 air, which they hailed with satisfaction. 
 
 On the 26th they entered Dusky Bay, in New Zealand, 
 but with much caution, as they were all ignorant of its sound- 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE, 145 
 
 ings, Captain Cook in his former voyage having only dis- 
 covered and named it. After running about two leagues up 
 the bay, and passing several of the isles which lay in it, they 
 brought to and hoisted out two boats, one of which was sent 
 away with an officer round a point on the port side to look 
 for anchorage. This he found, and signified the same by 
 signal. They then followed with the ship, and anchored in 
 fifty fathoms of water, so near the shore as to reach it with 
 a hawser. All hands were delighted to be at rest once more, 
 after having been 117 days at sea, and having sailed 3,660 
 leagues, without so much as once seeing land. 
 
 Notwithstanding their long continuance at sea in a high 
 southern latitude, only one man on board was very ill with 
 scurvy, and his illness was principally aggravated by a bad 
 habit of body and a complication of other disorders. 
 
 The country appeared beautiful and pleasing. The islands 
 at the entrance of Dusky Bay were shaded with evergreens 
 and covered with woods, and exhibited a delightful prospect. 
 The rocky shores were enlivened with flocks of aquatic birds, 
 and the whole country resounded with the wild notes of the 
 feathered songsters. They caught great numbers of fish, which 
 eagerly took the bait, and their first meal upon fish seemed 
 the most dehghtful they ever made. Their situation was ad- 
 mirable for obtaining food and water. The ship's yards were 
 locked in the branches of trees, and near their stern ran a 
 delightful stream of fresh water. They now made prepara- 
 tions on shore to set up the astronomer's observatory and the 
 forge, for making all necessary observations and repairing the 
 ship. The live cattle remaining on board, consisting of a few 
 sheep and goats, would not taste the grass which grew on 
 the shore, and upon examination being made of these poor 
 creatures, it appeared that their teeth were loose, and that 
 they had other symptoms of an inveterate scurvy. 
 
 On the 28th some of the officers went on a shooting 
 expedition in a small boat, and discovering some of the inhabi- 
 tants, returned to acquaint Captain Cook with the circumstance. 
 Shortly after, a canoe filled with natives came within musket- 
 shot of the ship. They remained for a short time, and then 
 
 K 
 
146 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 returned, though every endeavour was used to induce them 
 to approach nearer. Captain Cook, with several officers and 
 gentlemen, went in search of them the same day. They found 
 the canoe hauled up on the shore, where were several huts, 
 with fireplaces and fishing-nets, but the people had pro- 
 bably entered into the woods. After making a short stay, 
 they left in the canoe some medals, looking-glasses, and 
 other articles. 
 
 On the 1st of April they|sent to see if the things left in 
 the canoe remained there, and they found them untouched. 
 On the following day they went ashore and took with them 
 a black dog they had brought from the Cape, who ran into 
 the woods at the first musket they fired, and would not 
 return. 
 
 On the 6th a shooting-party went out and found a capacious 
 cove, where they shot several ducks, on which account they 
 called it Duck Cove. They had an interview with one man 
 and two women. The former stood upon the point of a rock, 
 with a club in his hand, and the women were behind him 
 with spears. As they approached, the man showed great 
 signs of fear, but stood firm, nor would he move to take up 
 some things that were thrown to him. His fears were all 
 dissipated by Captain Cook going up to embrace him ; and 
 the captain gave him such things as he had about him. The 
 officers and seamen followed the captain, and talked some 
 time with them, though they could not understand each other. 
 The youngest of the women bore the greatest share in the 
 conversation. 
 
 On the following day they paid these natives another visit, 
 and presented them with several things ; but they beheld 
 everything with indifference, except hatchets and spike-nails. 
 They now saw all the man's family, as they supposed, which 
 consisted of his two wives, the young woman mentioned 
 before, a boy about fourteen years old, and three small 
 children. The Englishmen were conducted to their habita- 
 tions, which consisted of two mean huts, situated near the 
 skirts of a wood. Their canoe lay in a small creek near the 
 huts, and was just large enough to transport the whole family 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 147 
 
 from place to place. A gentleman of the party made sketches 
 of them. On taking leave, the man presented Captain Cook 
 with some trifles and a piece of cloth of their own manu- 
 facture, and pointed to a boat cloak, which he wished to have. 
 The hint was taken, and one was ordered to be made for him 
 of red baize. 
 
 On the 9th they paid another visit to the natives, who had 
 their hair combed and oiled, stuck with white feathers, and 
 tied upon the crowns of their heads, and bunches of feathers 
 stuck in their ears. They were received with great courtesy, 
 and the man was so well pleased with the present of the 
 cloak, that he took his patoo-patoo from his side, and gave it 
 to Captain Cook. 
 
 On Monday, the 12th, this family paid them a visit in their 
 canoe, but proceeded with caution as they approached the ship. 
 They could not be persuaded to come on board, but put 
 ashore in a little creek near them, and sat themselves down. 
 Captain Cook ordered the bagpipes to play and the drum to 
 beat, the latter of which interested them. 
 
 In the evening, the man and his daughter before mentioned 
 ventured on board the ship, while the rest of the family were 
 fishing in a canoe. Before the man would come into the 
 ship, he struck the side of it with a green branch and 
 muttered some words of a prayer ; after which he threw 
 away the branch and came on board. They viewed every 
 part of the cabin with apparent curiosity and surprise, but it 
 was not possible to fix their attention to any one thing for a 
 moment. All that was shown them seemed beyond their 
 comprehension, and the works of nature and art were alike 
 disregarded . The man appeared better pleased with hatchets 
 and spike-nails than anything the ship produced, and when 
 he had once got possession of these he would not quit them. 
 Captain Cook and three other gentlemen left the ship as soon 
 as they could disengage themselves from the visitors, whom 
 they left in the gun-room, and went out in two boats to 
 examine the head of the bay, at which place they took up 
 their night's lodging. The next day they continued their 
 observations, and fired at some ducks. Upon the report of 
 
148 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 the gun, the natives, who had not discovered themselves 
 before, set up a most hideous noise in different places. The 
 gentlemen hallooed in their turn, and retreated to the boats. 
 The natives did not follow them, but still made a great noise. 
 As the Englishmen continued shooting and making their 
 observations, they frequently heard the natives in the woods. 
 A man and woman appeared at last on the banks of the river, 
 waving something in their hands as a token of friendship. 
 The gentlemen could not get near them, and the natives 
 retreated into the woods. Two others appeared ; but as the 
 gentlemen advanced they retreated, and the woods afforded 
 them thick cover. The captain and his party passed the 
 next night in the same place, and after breakfast embarked to 
 return on board ; but seeing two men on the opposite shore, 
 who hallooed to them, they were induced to row over to 
 them. Captain Cook, with two other gentlemen, landed 
 unarmed, but the natives retreated, nor would they stand 
 still till Captain Cook went up alone. It was with some 
 difficulty that he prevailed on one of them to lay down his 
 spear ; at last he did so, and met the captain with a grass 
 plant in his hand, giving him one end to hold while he himself 
 held the other. In this position they stood while the natives 
 made a speech, which the captain did not understand, but 
 returned some sort of answer ; they then saluted each other, 
 and the native took his coat from his back, and put it on the 
 captain ; the captain presented each of them with a hatchet 
 and a knife, having nothing else with him. They invited the 
 gentlemen to their habitation, and wanted them to eat, but the 
 tide prevented their accepting this invitation. More people 
 appeared in the skirts of the woods, but did not approach 
 any nearer. The two natives accompanied the gentlemen 
 to their boats, but seemed very much agitated at the 
 appearance of the muskets, which they looked upon as 
 instruments of death, on account of the slaughter they had 
 observed among the fowls. It was necessary to watch 
 them, for they laid their hands on everything, except the 
 muskets. They assisted the seamen in launching the boat. 
 It did not appear that they had any boats or canoes with 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE, 149 
 
 them, but used two or three logs of wood tied together, 
 which answered the same purposes ; for the navigation of 
 the river, on the banks of which they Hved, was not very 
 difficult, and swarmed with fish and fowls. Several parties 
 were made in order to catch seals, which were very useful 
 for food and oil, and their skins were cured for the 
 rigging. 
 
 On Saturday, the 24th, Captain Cook took five geese and 
 a gander, which were all that remained of those brought 
 from the Cape of Good Hope, and carried them to a cove, 
 which on this account he called Goose Cove ; this was 
 a convenient place for them to breed, as they were not 
 likely to be disturbed by the inhabitants, and there was 
 also plenty of food. 
 
 There are two entrances to Dusky Bay, and also nume- 
 rous anchoring-places, which are at once safe and com- 
 modious. At Cascade Cove, so called on account of the 
 magnificent cascade near it, there is room for a fleet of ships, 
 and a very good passage in and out. The country is very 
 mountainous, and the prospect rude and craggy. The land 
 bordering on the seacoast, and all the neighbourhood, is 
 covered with wood. 
 
 On Tuesday, the nth of May, the ship again made sail. 
 They observed on a sudden a whitish spot on the sea, out of 
 which a column arose which looked like a glass tube. It 
 appeared that another of the same sort came down from the 
 clouds to meet this, and they made a coalition and formed 
 what is called a waterspout ; several others were formed in 
 the same manner soon after. They were able to examine one 
 within 200 fathoms of them. They first saw a portion of the 
 sea in violent agitation ; the water ascended in a spiral form 
 towards the clouds, which looked black and lowering, and 
 some hailstones fell on board. A cloud gradually tapered 
 into a long slender tube directly over the agitated spot, and 
 seemed descending to meet the rising spiral, and soon united 
 with it. When the waterspouts broke, no explosion was heard, 
 but a flash of lightning was seen. The oldest mariners on 
 board had never been so near a waterspout before, and were 
 
ISO COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 therefore very much alarmed. From the first appearance to 
 the last disjunction, was three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 At five o'clock in the morning, on the i8th of May, they 
 opened Queen Charlotte's Sound and saw three flashes 
 arising from a stronghold of the natives. Imagining them 
 to be signals of the Europeans, and probably of the 
 Adventure^ they fired some guns and were answered, and 
 in a short time saw the Adventure at anchor. They were 
 saluted by Captain Furneaux with thirteen guns, which was 
 joyfully returned ; the happiness at this welcome meeting was 
 indescribable. 
 
 Captain Furneaux gave the following account of his pro- 
 ceedings during their separation. On Sunday, the 4th of 
 February, having lost sight of the Resolution in a thick fog, 
 they continued to cruise in the place where they parted com- 
 pany. Soon after their separation they heard the report of a 
 gun, which they judged to be on the larboard beam ; upon 
 which they hauled to the S.E., and fired a 4-pounder every 
 half-hour, but receiving no return, they kept the course they 
 had steered before the fog came on. In the evening it began 
 to blow hard, and the sea broke over the ship's bows to the 
 height of the yard-arms, though at intervals the weather was 
 more clear. They stood to the westward, to cruise in the 
 latitude where they last saw the Resolution^ according to 
 agreement, in case of separation ; but the storm returned with 
 renewed fury, and the weather being again exceedingly hazy, 
 they were compelled to bring to, which untoward circumstance 
 prevented them from reaching the intended place. However? 
 they cruised as near the spot as they could for three days, 
 when, after beating about the seas in the most terrible 
 weather, they gave up all hopes of joining their lost com- 
 panions, and bore away for winter quarters 1,400 leagues 
 from them ; having to traverse a sea entirely unknown, they 
 reduced the allowance of water to one quart a day for each 
 seaman. 
 
 On Monday, the 1st of March, it was determined to bear 
 away for Van Diemen^s Land, there to take in water and 
 repair their shattered rigging. 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. i^i 
 
 On Thursday, the nth, they found a most commodious 
 harbour, and anchored in seven fathoms of water, about one 
 mile from the shore on each side. During their stay here 
 they did not see any of the natives, but perceived the smoke 
 of their fires eight or ten miles to the northward. 
 
 Having taken on board wood and water, they set sail, 
 intending to explore the coast, with a view of discovering 
 whether Van Diemen's Land is a part of New Holland. 
 
 On the 24th, having left Van Diemen's Land, they had a 
 very severe squall, and shipped many waves, one of which 
 stove the large cutter, and with much difficulty the small one 
 was prevented from being washed overboard. After this 
 heavy gale, which continued twelve hours, they had more 
 temperate weather, accompanied with calms. At length 
 they made the coast of New Zealand, having run twenty-four 
 degrees of longitude in fifteen days. 
 
 On the 9th of April three canoes came alongside the 
 Adventure^ having fifteen Indians of both sexes, all armed 
 with battle-axes, and with other offensive weapons made of 
 hard wood, about four feet in length ; but they had neither 
 bows nor arrows. A kind of net was wrapped round their 
 shoulders, and tied about their waists, with a girdle made of 
 grass. Both men and women exhibited a savage appearance, 
 and were very unwilling to venture on board. The captain 
 made them presents, and by signs invited them to trade. 
 They accepted the presents, and some of them gained courage" 
 enough to trust themselves on deck. In this visit they men- 
 tioned the name of Tupia, and upon being informed he died 
 at Batavia, some of them with much concern inquired if he 
 was killed, or died a natural death. 
 
 On Tuesday, the nth of May, several of the crew who 
 were at work on shore very sensibly felt the shock of an earth- 
 quake. On the following day, the weather continuing fair 
 and the Indians friendly, the captain and officers were pre- 
 paring to go ashore, when not less than ten canoes came pad- 
 dling down the sound. They counted 130 natives, all armed. 
 When alongside of the ship, they expressed a desire to be ad- 
 mitted on board, but Captain Furneaux not liking their looks 
 
152 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 and gestures, gave orders that a few only should be admitted 
 at a time. These behaved so disorderly that the sailors 
 were obliged to turn them out, and it now appeared plainly 
 that their intentions were to make themselves masters of 
 the ship. However, finding the crew to be upon their guard, 
 they became more civil, but not before a great gun was dis- 
 charged over their heads, which intimidated them. Being 
 thus reduced to order, the people on board produced several 
 articles, such as beads, small clasp-knives, scissors, cloth, 
 paper, and other trifles, which they bartered for battle-axes, 
 spears, weapons of various sorts, fish-hooks, and other 
 curiosities, the manufacture of the country. Being visibly 
 disappointed in the execution of their grand design, they 
 took to their canoes ; but, previous to their departure, the 
 captain and officers made presents to those among them who 
 appeared to be their chiefs, which they accepted with great 
 apparent satisfaction. 
 
 On the 17th they had the pleasure of seeing the Resolution 
 off the .mouth of the Sound. Such is Captain Furneaux's 
 report of his proceedings after parting with the Resolution. 
 
 The effects of the boisterous weather which they had 
 experienced in the course of the last few months were felt by 
 the crew of the Resolution^ and it is astonishing that they 
 should have continued in perfect health, scarcely a man being 
 so ill as to be incapable of duty. Nothing can redound more 
 to the honour of Captain Cook than his paying particular 
 attention to the preservation of health among his ship's 
 company. By observing the strictest discipline from the 
 highest to the lowest, his commands were duly observed 
 and punctually executed. When the service was hard, he 
 tempered the severity by frequent reliefs, while in fine or 
 settled weather he never suffered any of his men to be idle, 
 but constantly employed the armourers, carpenters, and sea- 
 men in doing something, each in his own way, which, though 
 not immediately wanted, he knew might be required before 
 the voyage was completed. 
 
 The morning after their arrival, being Wednesday, the 19th, 
 Captain Cook went off at daybreak to gather scurvy grass, 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 153 
 
 celery, and other vegetables. At breakfast time he returned 
 with a boatload, enough for the crews of both ships, and 
 knowing their salutary efficacy in removing scorbutic com- 
 plaints, he ordered that they should be boiled with wheat 
 and portable broth every morning for breakfast, and with 
 peas and broth for dinner. Captain Furneaux had planted 
 a great quantity of garden seeds, which grew very well, and 
 produced plenty of salad and European greens. 
 
 Captain Cook sent on shore to the watering-place, near 
 the Adventurers tent, the only ewe and ram remaining of 
 those they brought from the Cape of Good Hope. On the 
 2 1 St they went over to Long Island, where they sowed 
 different kinds of garden seeds, upon spots which were 
 cleared for that purpose. On Saturday, the 22nd, they 
 found the ewe and ram dead, supposed to have been 
 occasioned by their eating some poisonous plants. About 
 noon they were visited by two small canoes, in which were 
 five men, who dined with them. 
 
 On Monday, the 24th, Captain Cook, accompanied by 
 Captain Furneaux and Mr. Foster, set off in a boat to the 
 west bay on a shooting excursion. They met a large canoe, 
 in which were fourteen or fifteen people, and the first ques- 
 tion asked was concerning the welfare of Tupia. Being 
 told he was dead, they expressed some concern. 
 
 On Saturday, the 29th, a great number of natives sur- 
 rounded the ship with canoes, and a brisk business was 
 done, the sailors being eager to acquire some of the pro- 
 ductions of the country. 
 
 One of the Indians Captain Cook took to Mortuara, and 
 showed him some potatoes in a thriving condition, which 
 were planted by Mr. Fannen, master of the Adventure. 
 The man was so well pleased with them, that of his own 
 accord he began to hoe up the earth round the plants. He 
 was then conducted to other plantations of turnips, carrots, 
 and parsnips, of which it was easy to give them an idea, by 
 comparing them with such roots as they were well acquainted 
 with. 
 
 On Friday, the 4th of June, being his Majesty's birthday, 
 
154 . COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 they hoisted their colours, and prepared to celebrate the day 
 with the usual festivities. Early in the morning their friends 
 brought them a large supply of fish. One of them promised 
 to accompany the ship on their voyage, but afterwards altered 
 his mind, as did also some others who had made a like pro- 
 mise to the captain of the AdvenUire. It was very common 
 for these people to bring their children with them, not with 
 the unnatural intention of selling them, as was reported, but 
 in expectation that they would make them presents. This 
 day a large double canoe, containing about thirty men, came 
 within musket-shot. Among these new visitors, one stood at 
 the head of the canoe and another at the stern, while the 
 rest kept their seats ; the former held a green bough in his 
 hand and spoke a few words, and the other made a long 
 harangue in solemn and well-articulated sounds. Being 
 invited aboard, he at last ventured, and was followed soon by 
 the rest, who eagerly traded with the crew. They saluted the 
 natives already on board by rubbing noses, and paid the 
 same compliment to the gentlemen on the quarter-deck. 
 These people were taller than any hitherto seen in New 
 Zealand, and their dress and ornaments bespoke them 
 superior to the inhabitants of Queen Charlotte's Sound. 
 Their tools were made with great attention and were elegantly 
 carved ; a few of these were obtained, and also some musical 
 instruments. They made but a short stay, and embarking, 
 all went over to Mortuara, where, by the help of glasses, four 
 or five canoes were discovered, and several people on the 
 shore. About noon, Captain Cook, accompanied by several 
 other gentlemen, followed them, and was received with 
 every mark of friendship. The captain distributed several 
 presents, among which were a number of brass medals, 
 inscribed with the king's title on one side and the ship 
 which undertook this voyage on the other. Captain Cook 
 conducted Teiratu, the chief, to the garden he had planted, 
 and obtained a promise from him that he would not suffer it 
 to be destroyed. 
 
 Early on the morning of the 7th of June the ships sailed 
 from this place, but met with contrary winds. Captain Cook 
 
IHE SECOND VOYAGE. 15$ 
 
 having heard that the crew of the Adventure were sickly, 
 went on board on the 29th of July, when he found the cook 
 dead, and twenty men ill with the scurvy and flux. Only 
 three men were on the sick list on board the ResohUiofiy 
 which was certainly owing to the captain's absolutely en- 
 forcing the eating of celery and scurvy grass with the food, 
 though at first the crew did not like it. 
 
 All hopes of discovering a continent now vanished, as they 
 had got to the northward of Captain Carteret's tracks, and 
 they only expected to see islands till their return to the south. 
 On the 6th of August Captain Furneaux came on board the 
 Resohition to dinner, and reported that his people were much 
 better ; that the flux had quite left them, and that the scurvy 
 was at a stand. 
 
 On the 1 8th they were within a league of Otaheite. On 
 account of the breeze failing, they hoisted out the boats to 
 tow the ships. Many inhabitants came on board from 
 different parts, bringing fruits to exchange. Most of them 
 knew Captain Cook again, and inquired for Mr. Banks 
 and others ; but none of them asked for Tupia. Their 
 situation now became very dangerous from a coral reef. On 
 sending to examine the western point of the reef, in order to 
 get round that way into the bay, they found that there was not 
 sufficient depth of water. Both ships were carried with great 
 impetuosity towards the reef, and the breakers were not two 
 cables' length distant, and no bottom to anchor. The Reso- 
 hition came to three fathoms water, and struck at every fall 
 of the sea, but the Adventure brought up without striking. 
 
 At length they found ground, and now got the ship afloat 
 by cutting away the bower anchor. They first towed off the 
 Resolution, and then all the boats were ordered to assist the 
 Adventure, and they happily got once more safe to sea, after 
 narrowly escaping shipwreck. A number of the natives were 
 on board the ships while in this perilous situation, but were 
 totally insensible of any danger, even while the ships were 
 striking. They anchored in Oati-piha Bay, very near the 
 shore, and were visited by a great number of the natives. 
 Presents were made to their chiefs, of shirts, axes, and other 
 
IS6 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 articles^ in return for which they promised hogs and fowls. 
 In the afternoon Captains Cook and Furneaux landed to 
 sound the disposition of the natives and to view the water- 
 ing-place. The natives behaved with great civility, and they 
 found a very convenient supply of water. 
 
 A man who pretended to be a chief came on board with 
 several of his friends, to whom presents were made, but he 
 was detected in handing several things over the quarter 
 gallery ; and as complaints of the same nature were alleged 
 against those on the deck. Captain Cook turned them all out 
 of the ship, and was so exasperated at the conduct of the 
 pretended chief, that he fired two muskets over his head, 
 which terrified him so much that he jumped into the water. 
 On sending a boat to take up the canoe, the people from the 
 shore pelted the seamen with stones. The captain went him- 
 self in another boat to protect her, and also ordered a cannon 
 loaded with round shot to be fired along the coast, which so 
 greatly terrified them that he brought away the canoes with- 
 out any further opposition. However, they soon became 
 friends again, and the canoes were returned. Two or three 
 natives began to inquire after Tupia, but they were soon 
 satisfied when they heard the cause of his death. Several 
 people also asked for Mr. Banks and others who were at Ota- 
 heite with Captain Cook before. It appeared that there had 
 been a battle lately fought between the two kingdoms ; that 
 Tootahah, the regent of the greater peninsula, was slain, and 
 that Otoo reigned in his stead. In this battle Tubourai 
 Tamaide and several of their old friends fell. A peace was 
 now fully established. 
 
 On the 19th the two commanders made an excursion along 
 the coast, and were entertained by a chief with some excellent 
 fish, to whom, in return, they made several presents. On 
 the following day one of the natives stole a gim from the 
 people on shore, upon which some of his countrymen pursued 
 him of their own accord, knocked him down, and brought 
 back the musket. On the 21st a chief paid them a visit, 
 and brought a present of fruit, which proved to be some 
 cocoa-nuts that had been thrown overboard. He did not 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE, 157 
 
 betray the least emotion when they told him of it, and 
 opened two or three of them himself, as if he knew nothing 
 of the matter ; he then pretended to be satisfied that it was 
 really so, and went on shore, from whence he sent some 
 bananas and plantains. They were informed that Waheatow 
 was come into the neighbourhood, and wished to see Cap- 
 tain Cook, who accordingly went in company with Captain 
 Furneaux and some gentlemen, many natives likewise ac- 
 companying them. About a mile from the landing-place 
 they met the chief advancing towards them with a numerous 
 train. He knew Captain Cook very well, as they had seen 
 each other several times in 1769, when he went by the name 
 of Terace. As soon as the usual salutation was over, he 
 seated Captain Cook on a stool with himself, the rest seating 
 themselves on the ground. He inquired after several who 
 had been on the former voyage, and seemed sorry when told 
 that they must sail on the next day, assuring the captain, if 
 he would stay, that he should have hogs in plenty. Captain 
 Cook made him many presents, and remained with him the 
 whole morning. The party returned on board ship to dinner, 
 and made this chief another visit in the afternoon, when more 
 presents were exchanged. 
 
 Early on the morning of the 24th the ships put to sea, and 
 were accompanied by several canoes, who brought cargoes 
 of fruit for sale, which were readily disposed of. The sick 
 people on board the Adventure got much relief from these 
 fruits. A lieutenant was left on shore, in order to bring some 
 hogs, which they promised to send by him. He returned on 
 the 25th, and brought eight pigs with him. They arrived 
 at Matavia Bay in the evening of the 25th, and before they 
 could anchor, their decks were crowded with natives, almost 
 all of whom were "acquainted with Captain Cook, Otoo their 
 king, and a great crowd, being assembled on the shore. 
 Captain Cook had intended to pay him a visit, but was told 
 that he was gone to Oparee in a fright, which surprised the 
 captain, as all others were much pleased to see him. Maritata, 
 a chief, was on board, and advised the captain to defer his 
 visit till the next morning. Accordingly, on the 26th, Captain 
 
158 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 Cook, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, Maritata, his wife, 
 and some others, set out for Oparee, after having given 
 directions to fetch tents for the reception of the sick. On 
 landing they were conducted to Otoo, who sat on the ground 
 under a shady tree, with a great number of people round him. 
 After the usual compliments had passed, Captain Cook made 
 him several presents, being persuaded that it was much to 
 his interest to be on good terms with this chief, and presents 
 were also made to his attendants. They offered cloth in re- 
 turn, which was refused, and they were told that the presents 
 were given purely out of friendship. 
 
 Otoo inquired for all the gentlemen who had been there 
 before, as well as for Tupia, and promised to send some hogs 
 on board, but was very backward in offering to come on 
 board himself, being, as he said, much afraid of the great 
 guns. He was certainly a most timid prince, as all his actions 
 demonstrated. He was a well-made man, six feet high, and 
 about thirty years of age. His father and all his subjects 
 were uncovered before him ; that is, their heads and shoulders 
 were made bare. 
 
 On the 27th, King Otoo, attended by a numerous train, 
 returned the visit. He sent before him two large fish, a hog, 
 some fruits, and a large quantity of cloth. After much 
 persuasion he came on board himself, accompanied by his 
 sisters, a younger brother, and many attendants ; and after 
 breakfasting, they were carried home by their attendants. 
 Upon landing, an old lady, the mother of Tootahah, met 
 Captain Cook, seized him by both hands, and weeping 
 bitterly, told him that her son and his friend, Tootahah, was 
 dead. Had not they taken her from Captain Cook, he must 
 have joined her lamentations. It was with a good deal of 
 difficulty that the captain prevailed on the king to let him 
 see her again, when he made her some presents. Captain 
 Furneaux gave the king a male and a female goat. A lieu- 
 tenant was sent to Attahouru, on the 28th, to purchase 
 hogs. The king, with his sister and some attendants, paid 
 them another visit soon after sunrise, and brought with them 
 a hog, some fruit, and some more cloth. They likewise went 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE, 159 
 
 on board the Adventure^ and made Captain Furneaux the 
 same presents; soon after they returned, bringing Captain 
 Furneaux with them. Captain Cook made them a good 
 return for the presents they brought, and dressed out the 
 king's sister to the greatest advantage. The king was carried 
 again to Oparee, and on leaving the ship was entertained with 
 bagpipes and the seamen dancing. Some of his people 
 danced also, in imitation of the seamen, and performed their 
 parts tolerably well. Tootahah's mother again presented her- 
 self to Captain Cook, but could not look upon him without 
 shedding many tears. 
 
 On the 29th the commanders took a trip to Oparee, 
 attended by some officers and gentlemen, and made the 
 king such presents as he had not before seen. One of them 
 was a broadsword, at the sight of which he was very much 
 intimidated, and desired it might be taken out of his sight. 
 With a vast deal of argument he was prevailed upon to 
 suffer it to be put on his side, where it remained a very 
 short time. They received an invitation to the theatre, 
 where they were entertained with a dramatic piece, con- 
 sisting of a comedy and dance. They could not make out 
 the subjects, though they heard frequent mention of Captain 
 Cook's name in the dialogue. The performers were one 
 woman, being no less a personage than the king's sister, 
 and five men, and their music consisted of only three drums. 
 The whole entertainment was well conducted, and lasted 
 about two hours. When this diversion was over the king 
 desired them to depart, and loaded them with fruit and fish. 
 
 In the evening of the 30th they were alarmed with the 
 cry of murder on the shore. Captain Cook, suspected it was 
 occasioned by some of his own people, and sent on shore an 
 armed boat's crew, who soon returned with a seaman and 
 three marines ; others, who belonged to the Adventure^ were 
 also taken, and put in close confinement till the morning, 
 when they were severely punished. The people would 
 confess nothing, and it did not appear that any material injury 
 had been done. The alarm, however, was so great that the 
 natives fled from their habitations in the night, and the 
 
i6o COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 inhabitants of the whole coast were terrified. The king 
 himself fled from his abode, and when Captain Cook saw 
 him he complained of the disturbance. As this was his 
 last visit, Captain Cook presented the king with three Cape 
 sheep, with which he was well pleased, though they were 
 all wethers ; and in return he presented the captain with 
 three hogs. The king seemed much affected when Captain 
 Cook told him he should leave the island on the following 
 day, and embraced him several times. 
 
 On the 1st of September, Pottatou (the chief of the district 
 of Attahounou) came with his wife to pay Captain Cook a 
 visit, and made him a present of two hogs and some fish. 
 As the wind was westerly, they were obliged to dismiss their 
 friends sooner than they wished ; but they were well satisfied 
 with the reception they met with. A young man named 
 Poreo, came on board some hours before they got under 
 weigh, and desired to go with them, to which they consented ; 
 at his request an axe and a spike-nail were presented to his 
 father, who came on board with him, but as they parted with 
 great indifference it was suspected that no such relationship 
 existed. Presently, a canoe conducted by two men came 
 alongside and demanded Poreo in the name of Otoo. The 
 artifice was now manifest, and they were required first to 
 return the hatchet and spike-nail, but as these were ashore, 
 he was carried away shedding tears, as he saw the land dis- 
 appear. 
 
 On the 2nd they steered for the island of Huaheine, and 
 on the following day the Resolution anchored in twenty-four 
 fathoms of water. The Adventure ran ashore on the north side 
 of the channel, but was got off again without receiving any 
 damage. The natives received them with the utmost cordiality, 
 and several came on board. Some presents were distributed 
 among them, which were returned by a plentiful supply of 
 hogs and fruit. Captain Cook was informed that Oree was still 
 alive, and was anxious to see him. The commanders, with 
 Mr. Foster, went to the place appointed for the interview, ac- 
 companied by one of the natives ; the boat was landed before 
 the chief's house, and they were desired to remain in it till 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE, i6i 
 
 the necessary ceremony was gone through. There stood, 
 close to the shore, five young plantain trees, their emblems 
 of peace ; these were, with some ceremony, brought on 
 board separately. The first three were each accompanied 
 by a young pig, whose ears were ornamented with cocoa- 
 nut fibres ; the fourth plantain tree was accompanied by a 
 dog : all these had particular names and meanings. The 
 chief had carefully preserved, and now sent on board, a 
 piece of pewter, with an inscription on it, which Captain 
 Cook had presented to him in 1769, together with a piece 
 of counterfeit English coin, which, with a few beads, were 
 all in the same bag the captain made for them. This part 
 of the ceremony being over, the gentlemen were desired to 
 decorate three young plantain trees with nails, looking- 
 glasses, beads, and medals. With these in their hands they 
 landed, and the plantains were laid, one by one, before him. 
 They were told that one was for God, another for the king, 
 and the third for friendship. This being done, the king 
 came to Captain Cook, fell on his neck, and kissed him, 
 tears rolling down the cheeks of the old man. Captain 
 Cook regarded him as a father, and therefore presented him 
 with the most valuable articles he had, presents being also 
 given to his attendants and friends. The king gave the 
 captain a hog and a quantity of cloth, with the promise that 
 all his wants should be supplied. Soon after they returned 
 on board fourteen hogs were sent, with fowls and fruit in 
 abundance. In the morning of the 5th they were visited by 
 this old man, who brought a hog, and some fruit and roots 
 in great plenty. This morning Lieutenant Pickersgill went 
 on shore in search of more hogs, and returned in the evening 
 with twenty-eight, and about seventy more were purchased 
 on shore. 
 
 On the 6th of September the trading party, consisting of 
 three people, went on shore, as usual. Captain Cook also 
 landed after breakfast, and learnt that one of the natives 
 had been very insolent and troublesome. This man was 
 shown to the captain, equipped in his war habit, and with 
 a club in each hand. The captain took these from him, as 
 
 L 
 
i62 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 he saw that he was bent on mischief; broke them before 
 his face, and obhged him to retire. The captain, being 
 informed that this man was a chief, became a little suspicious 
 of him, and sent for a guard. About this time a gentleman, 
 who had gone out botanising alone, was assaulted by two 
 men, who stripped him of everything but his trousers ; 
 luckily they did him no harm, though they struck him 
 several times with his own hanger, or short sword. They 
 then made off, and a native brought a bit of cloth to cover 
 him. This gentleman presently appeared at the trading- 
 place, where a number of the natives were assembled, who 
 all fled on seeing him. Captain Cook persuaded some of 
 them to return, assuring them that none should suffer who 
 were innocent. When the king heard his complaint he and 
 his companions wept bitterly ; and as soon as his grief was 
 assuaged he made a long harangue to the people, telling 
 them the baseness of such actions, when the captain and 
 his crew had always behaved so well to them. He then 
 took a particular account of the things the gentleman had 
 lost, and promised that they should be returned, if it was in 
 his power to find them. After this he desired Captain Cook 
 to follow him to the boat, but the people, being apprehensive 
 for his safety, used every argument, with tears, to dissuade 
 him from it. Oree was deaf to them all, and insisted on 
 going with the captain ; when they were both in the boat 
 he desired it might be put off. The only person who did 
 not oppose his going was his sister, and she showed a 
 magnanimity of spirit equal to her brother. They pro- 
 ceeded in search of the robbers, as far as was convenient 
 by water, and then landed. The chief led the way, travelled 
 several miles, and was with great difficulty dissuaded from 
 proceeding farther by Captain Cook. On returning to the 
 boat they were met by the king's sister, who had travelled 
 overland to that place, accompanied by several other persons. 
 They returned to the ship, and the king made a very hearty 
 dinner, though his sister, according to custom, ate nothing. 
 The captain made them suitable presents, for their con- 
 fidence^ and set them ashore amidst the acclamations of 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 163 
 
 multitudes. Peace was now perfectly re-established ; pro- 
 visions poured in from all quarters ; the gentleman's hanger 
 and coat were returned, and thus ended these troublesome 
 transactions. 
 
 On the 7th, while the ships were unmooring, Captain 
 Cook went to take leave of Oree, and presented him with 
 some valuable and useful articles. He left with him a 
 copper plate, with this inscription : — "Anchored here, His 
 Britannic Majesty's ships Resolution and Adventure^ Sep- 
 tember, 1773." After they had traded for such things as 
 they wanted they took their leave. On returning to the 
 ships they were surrounded by canoes filled with hogs, fowls, 
 and fruit. The good old king stayed with them till they 
 were nearly two miles out at sea, and then bade them farewell, 
 after taking an affectionate leave. During their stay here 
 they procured upwards of 300 hogs, besides fowls and fruit 
 in abundance. 
 
 At this island Captain Furneaux engaged a young man, 
 named Omai, a native of Ulietea, who had been dispossessed 
 of his property by the people of Bolabola, to accompany 
 him on his voyage. On his arrival in England he was 
 presented to the king by the First Lord of the Admiralty, 
 and his history is connected with the future proceedings 
 of the voyagers. This young man was well-conducted, 
 and appeared to possess a good understanding and honest 
 principles. 
 
 On the 8th of September they anchored at Ulietea, and 
 a trade soon commenced with the natives. Next morning 
 they paid a formal visit to Oreo, the chief of this part of 
 the isle, carrying with them the necessary presents. He 
 was seated in his own house, which stood near the water- 
 side, where he and his friends received them with great 
 cordiality. 
 
 He expressed much satisfaction at seeing Captain 
 Cook again, and desired that they might exchange names, 
 which he accordingly agreed to. This is the strongest mark 
 of friendship these people can show to a stranger. After 
 they had made the chief and his friends the necessary 
 
1 64 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 presents they went on board, with a hog and some fruit, 
 received from him in return. 
 
 After breakfast on the loth. Captain Cook and Captain Fur- 
 neaux paid the chief a visit, and were entertained by the per- 
 formance of a comedy. The music consisted of three drums ; 
 the actors were seven men and one woman — the chief's 
 daughter. The only entertaining part of the drama was a 
 theft, committed by a man and his accomphce in such a 
 masterly manner as sufficiently displayed the genius of the 
 people in this vice. Captain Cook says, "I was very 
 attentive to the whole of this part, being in full expectation 
 that it would have ended very differently ; for I had before 
 been informed that Teto (that is, the thief) was to be acted, 
 and had understood that the theft was to be punished with 
 death, or a good tipparrahying (or beating), a punishment, 
 we are told, they inflict on such as are guilty of this crime. 
 Be this as it may, strangers are certainly excluded from the 
 protection of this law ; them they rob with impunity, on every 
 occasion that offers." 
 
 On the 1 6th Captain Cook was told that his Otaheitean 
 young man, Poreo, had taken a resolution to leave him, and 
 was actually gone; having met with a young woman for 
 whom he had contracted a friendship, he went away with 
 her, and they saw him no more. 
 
 Having now secured a large supply of provisions, the 
 captain determined to put to sea on the following morning, 
 and informed the chief, who promised to see him again before 
 he departed. As soon as it was light, Oreo, with his son and 
 some of his friends, came on board. Many canoes also came 
 off with fruit and hogs, the latter they even begged of them 
 to take from them, calling out, " I am your friend ; take my 
 hog and give me an axe." But the decks were already so full 
 of them that they could hardly move, having between 300 
 and 400 on board both ships. 
 
 The chief and his friends did not leave them till they were 
 under sail, and pressed them much to return soon. Many 
 young men of this island voluntarily offered to accompany 
 Captain Cook, who consented to take with him one about 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE, 165 
 
 seventeen or eighteen years old, named Oedidee, a native of 
 Bolabola, and a near relation of Opoony, chief of that island. 
 
 The island of Otaheite, which, in the years 1767 and 1768, 
 swarmed with hogs and fowls, was now so ill-supplied with 
 these animals, that hardly anything could induce the owners 
 to part with them. 
 
 As Captain Cook had some reason to believe that amongst 
 the religious customs of these people human sacrifices were 
 sometimes considered as necessary, he went one day to a 
 moral in Matavia, in company with Captain Furneaux, having 
 with them, as they had upon all other occasions, one of their 
 own men, who spoke their language tolerably well, and 
 several of the natives, one of whom appeared to be an intelli- 
 gent sensible man. In the moral was a tupapow, on which 
 lay a corpse and some viands. 
 
 Omai subsequently informed him that they offer human 
 sacrifices to the Supreme Being. According to his account, 
 the men are selected for sacrifice according to the caprice of 
 the high priest, who, when they are assembled on any solemn 
 occasion, retires alone into the house of their god, and stays 
 there some time. When he comes out, he informs them 
 that he has seen and conversed with their great god, and 
 that he asked for a human sacrifice, and tells them that he 
 has desired such a person, naming a man present, who most 
 probably the priest has an antipathy against. He is imme- 
 diately killed, and so falls a victim to the priest's resentment, 
 who, no doubt, if necessary, has address enough to persuade 
 the people that he was a bad man. 
 
 After leaving Ulietea on the 17th of September, 1773, they 
 steered to the west, and, on the ist of October, saw the 
 island of Middleburgh. As they approached the shore, the 
 canoes came boldly alongside, and some of the natives 
 entered the ship without hesitation. This mark of confi- 
 dence gave Captain Cook a good opinion of these islanders, 
 and determined him to visit them if possible. They found 
 good anchorage, and came-to in twenty-five fathoms of 
 water. They had scarcely anchored, before they were sur- 
 rounded by a great number of canoes full of people, who 
 
i66 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 began to traffic. Among them was a chief, named Tioony, 
 to whom the captain made a present of a hatchet, spike- 
 nail, and several other articles, with which he was highly- 
 pleased. 
 
 Soon after a party of Englishmen embarked in two boats, 
 in company with Tioony, who conducted them to a little 
 creek formed by the rocks, right abreast of the ships, where 
 landing was extremely easy, and the boat secure against the 
 surf. Here they found an immense crowd of people, who 
 welcomed them on shore with loud acclamations. Not one 
 of them had so much as a stick or any other weapon in his 
 hand, an indubitable sign of their pacific intentions ; they 
 thronged so thick round the boats with cloth and matting, to 
 exchange for nails, that it was some time before they could 
 find room to land. Many who could not get near the boats, 
 threw into them, over the others' heads, whole bales of cloth, 
 and then retired, without either asking or waiting to get any- 
 thing in return. The chief conducted them to his house, about 
 three hundred yards from the sea, at the head of a fine lawn, 
 and under the shade of some shaddock trees. The situa- 
 tion was most delightful. In front was the sea, and the ships 
 at anchor ; in the rear, and on each side, were plantations in 
 which were some of the richest productions of nature ; the 
 floor was laid with mats, to which they were conducted, and 
 the people seated themselves in a circle round them on the 
 outside. Having brought the bagpipes. Captain Cook ordered 
 them to be played, and in return the chief directed three 
 young women to sing a song, which they did with a very 
 good grace ; and having made each of them a present, this 
 immediately set all the women in the circle singing. Their 
 songs were musical and harmonious. Bananas and cocoa- 
 nuts were set before the Englishmen, and a bowl of liquor, 
 prepared in their presence, of the juice of eava, for them to 
 drink. But Captain Cook was the only one who tasted it, 
 the manner of brewing it having quenched the thirst of every- 
 one else. The bowl was, however, soon emptied of its con- 
 tents by the natives. 
 
 They returned on board to dinner, accompanied by the 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE, 167 
 
 chief. He sat at a table, but ate nothing, though one of the 
 dishes was roasted pork. Near some of the houses, and in 
 the lanes that divided the plantations, were running about 
 some hogs and very large fowls, which were the only domestic 
 animals they saw ; and as they did not seem willing to part 
 with them, Captain Cook determined to leave the place. 
 
 In the evening they returned on board, highly delighted 
 with the country and the very obliging behaviour of the 
 inhabitants, who seemed to vie with each other in doing what 
 they thought would give pleasure. After making the chief a 
 present, consisting of various articles and an assortment of 
 garden seeds, Captain Cook gave him to understand that 
 they were going away, at which he seemed unconcerned. As 
 soon as the captain was on board, they made sail down to 
 Amsterdam. On opening the west side of the isle, they were 
 met by several canoes, each containing three or four men. 
 They came boldly alongside, presented the sailors with some 
 eava root, and then came on board without further ceremony, 
 inviting them by all the friendly signs they could make, to 
 go to their island, pointing to the place where they should 
 anchor. 
 
 Having secured the ships, Captain Cook, accompanied by 
 Captain Furneaux, Mr. Foster, and several of the officers, 
 landed, together with a chief named Attago, a person of 
 some note, who had attached himself to Captain Cook the 
 instant he came on board. 
 
 After walking a little way into the country, they returned 
 to the landing-place, and there found Mr. Wales in a laugh- 
 able though unpleasant predicament. The boats which 
 brought them on shore not being able to get near the landing- 
 place for want of a sufficient depth of water, he pulled off" his 
 shoes and stockings to walk through, and as soon as he 
 got on dry land he placed them at his feet to put on 
 again ; but they were instantly snatched away by a person • 
 behind him, who immediately mixed with the crowd. It was 
 impossible for him to follow the man bare-footed over the 
 sharp coral rocks which cover the shore, without having 
 his feet cut to pieces. The boat had put back to the ship, 
 
i68 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 and his companions having made their way through the 
 crowd, he had been left alone in this condition. The chief 
 soon found out the thief, and recovered his shoes and stock- 
 ings, and of his own accord conducted his visitors to a 
 plantation hard by, and showed them a pool of fresh water. 
 
 Mr. Foster and his party spent the day in the country 
 botanising, and several of the officers went out shooting. All 
 of them were very civilly treated by the natives. A boat from 
 each ship was employed trading on shore, and bringing off 
 their cargoes as soon as they were laden, which was generally 
 in a short time. By this method they got at a cheaper rate 
 and with less trouble a good quantity of fruit, as well as other 
 provisions, from people who had no canoes to carry them 
 off to the ships. 
 
 Though the natives began to show a propensity for pilfer- 
 ing, the different trading parties were so successful as to 
 procure for both ships a tolerably good supply of provisions. 
 Captain Cook now gave every one leave to purchase what 
 curiosities they pleased, and their eagerness was so great as 
 to excite the ridicule of the natives, who offered pieces of 
 sticks and stones to exchange. 
 
 One of the natives, having got into the master's cabin, 
 took out some books and other things. He was discovered 
 just as he was getting into his canoe, and pursued by one of 
 their boats, which obliged him to quit the canoe and take to 
 the water. The people in the boat made several attempts to 
 lay hold of him, but he as often dived under the boat, and at 
 last, unshipping the rudder, got clear off. Some other very 
 daring thefts were committed at the landing-place. One 
 fellow took a seaman's jacket out of the boat and carried it 
 off in spite of all the people in her. The rest of the natives, 
 who were very numerous, took very little notice of the whole 
 transaction, nor were they the least alarmed when the man 
 was fired at. 
 
 Attago visited Captain Cook again the next morning, and 
 brought with him a hog, and assisted him in purchasing 
 several more. This day the captain was told by the officers 
 who were on shore that a far greater man than any they had 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 169 
 
 yet seen was come to pay them a visit. Mr. Pickersgill 
 informed them that he had seen him in the country, and 
 found that he was a man of consequence, by the extraordi- 
 nary respect paid to him by the people. Some, when they 
 approached him, fell on their faces, and put their heads 
 between their feet ; and no one durst pass him without per- 
 mission. The captain found him seated near the landing- 
 place, with so much sullen and stupid gravity, that, notwith- 
 standing what had been told him, he really took him for an 
 idiot, whom the people, from some superstitious notions, were 
 ready to worship. He saluted, and spoke to him ; but he 
 neither answered nor did he alter a single feature in his 
 countenance. This confirmed him in his opinion, and he 
 was just going to leave him, when one of the natives under- 
 took to undeceive him ; which he did in such a manner as 
 left no room to doubt that he was the king, or principal man 
 in the island. Accordingly, he made him a present, which 
 consisted of a shirt, an axe, a piece of red cloth, a looking- 
 glass, some nails, medals, and beads. He received these 
 things, or rather suffered them to be put upon him, and laid 
 by him, without either losing his gravity, speaking one word, 
 or turning his head either to the right or left ; sitting thus 
 like a statue, he was left by the Englishmen, who returned 
 on board, when he soon after retired. The captain had not 
 been long on board before word was brought that a quantity 
 of provisions had come from this chief A boat was sent to 
 bring it from the shore ; and it was found to consist of 
 twenty baskets of roasted bananas, sour bread, and yams, 
 and a roasted pig of about twenty pounds' weight. The 
 bearers said it was a present from the areeke, that is, the king 
 of the island, to the areeke of the ship. After this, they could 
 no longer doubt the dignity of this sullen chief, whose name 
 was Kohaghee-too-Fallangou. 
 
 The captain again went on shore and made this great man 
 a suitable present, and immediately prepared for quitting the 
 place. At ten o'clock they weighed anchor. The supplies 
 they got at this isle were about 1 50 pigs, twice that number 
 of fowls, as many bananas and cocoa-nuts as they could find 
 
I70 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 room for, with a few yams, and had the stay been longer, 
 they, no doubt, might have obtained a great deal more. 
 
 These islands were first discovered by Captain Tasman in 
 1642-3, and were called by him Amsterdam and Middleburgh ; 
 but the former is called by the natives Ton-ga-ta-bu, the 
 latter, Ea-00-wee. 
 
 The produce and cultivation of Middleburgh and Amster- 
 dam are the same, with this difference, that a part only of 
 the former is cultivated. The lanes or roads necessary for 
 travelling are laid out in so judicious a manner as to open a 
 free and easy communication from one part of the island to 
 the other. There are no towns or villages ; most of the houses 
 are built in the plantations, with no other order than what 
 convenience requires. They have little areas before most of 
 them, which are generally planted round with trees, or orna- 
 mental shrubs, whose fragrant perfumes fill the air; their 
 household furniture consists of a few wooden platters, cocoa- 
 nut shells, and some wooden pillars, shaped like four-footed 
 stools or forms. Their ordinary clothing, with the addition 
 of a mat, serves for bedding. 
 
 They saw no other domestic animals amongst them except 
 hogs and fowls. The former are similar to those in neigh- 
 bouring islands, but the latter are far superior, being as large 
 as any we have in Europe, and their flesh equally good, if not 
 better. The land birds are numerous. 
 
 The construction and make of their canoes, in point of 
 neatness and workmanship, exceed everything of the kind 
 seen in this sea. They are built of several pieces sewed 
 together with bandage in so neat a manner that on the outside 
 it is difficult to see the joints. All the fastenings are inside, 
 and pass through kants or ridges, which are wrought on the 
 edges and ends of the several boards, which compose the 
 vessel, for that purpose. At each end is a kind of deck, one- 
 third part of the whole length, and open in the middle. 
 These single canoes have all out-riggers, and are sometimes 
 navigated with sails, but more generally with paddles. The 
 two vessels which compose the double canoe are each about 
 60 or 70 feet long, and 4 or 5 feet broad in the middle, and 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 171 
 
 each end terminates nearly in a point. Thus the body, or 
 hull, differs a little in construction from the single canoe, but 
 is put together exactly in the same manner. 
 
 All parts which compose the double canoe are made as 
 strong and light as the nature of the work will admit, and 
 may be immerged in water to the very platform without 
 being in danger of filling. Nor is it possible, under any 
 circumstances whatever, for them to sink as long as they 
 hold together, thus fitting them for distant navigation. They 
 are rigged with one mast and a latteen, or triangular, sail, 
 extended by a long yard, which is a little bent. The sail is 
 made of mats, the rope they make use of is laid exactly like 
 those of Europe, and some of it is four or five inch. 
 On the platform is built a little shed or hut, which screens 
 the crew from the sea and weather, and serves for other 
 purposes. 
 
 Their working tools are made of stone, bones, and shells. 
 The Englishmen were struck with admiration at the ingenuity 
 and patience of the workmen. Their knowledge of the 
 utility of iron was no more than sufficient to teach them 
 to prefer nails to beads and such trifles ; some, but few, 
 would exchange a pig for a large nail or a hatchet. Old 
 jackets, shirts, cloth, and even rags, were in more esteem 
 than the best edge-tool. The only piece of iron amongst 
 them was a small brad-awl, which had been made of a nail. 
 
 Both men and women are of ordinary stature, and their 
 colour is a lightish copper. They have fine eyes, and in 
 general good teeth, even to an advanced age. The men 
 are tattooed from the middle of the thigh to above the hips. 
 The women have it only on their arms and fingers, and there 
 but slightly. The dress of both sexes consists of a piece of 
 cloth or matting wrapped round the waist, from whence 
 upwards they are generally naked ; and it seemed to be a 
 custom to anoint these parts every morning. 
 
 Their ornaments are amulets, necklaces, and bracelets of 
 bones, shells, and beads of mother-of-pearl and tortoise-shell, 
 which are worn by both sexes. They make various sorts of 
 matting, some of a very fine texture, which is generally used 
 
172 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 for clothing, and the thick or stronger sort serves to sleep on, 
 and to make sails for canoes. Among other useful utensils, 
 they have various sorts of baskets ; some made of the same 
 material as their mats, and others of the twisted fibres of 
 cocoa-nuts. These are not only durable but beautiful, being 
 generally composed of different colours, and studded with 
 beads made of shells or bones. 
 
 The women frequently entertained them with songs, keep- 
 ing time by snapping the fingers. Not only their voices, but 
 their music was very harmonious, and they have a consider- 
 able compass in their notes. The common method of 
 saluting one another is by touching or meeting noses, as is 
 done in New Zealand ; and their sign of peace to strangers 
 is the displaying a white flag or flags. From their un- 
 suspicious manner of coming on board, it appears they are 
 seldom disturbed by foreign or domestic troubles. They are 
 moreover not unprovided with very formidable weapons, such 
 as clubs and spears made of hard wood, also bows and 
 arrows. They have a singular custom of putting everything 
 you give them to their heads by way of thanks. Very often 
 the women would take hold of Captain Cook's hand, kiss it, 
 and lift it to their heads. 
 
 It was observed that the greater part of the people, both 
 men and women, had lost one or both of their little fingers. 
 It was neither peculiar to rank, age, nor sex ; nor is it done 
 at any certain age, as there were people of all ages on whom 
 the amputation had been just performed, and, except some 
 young children, there were few who had both hands perfect. 
 As it was more common among the aged than the young, 
 some were of opinion, that it was occasioned by the death of 
 their parents, or some other near relation. They also burn 
 or make incisions in their cheeks, near the cheek-bone. 
 They all appeared healthy, strong, and vigorous ; a proof of 
 the salubrity of the climate in which they live. 
 
 Leaving these islands, the ships made sail to the south- 
 ward, as it was Captain Cook's intention to proceed directly 
 to Queen Charlotte's Sound, in New Zealand, there to take 
 in wood and water, and then to continue exploring to the 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 173 
 
 south and east. He was desirous of having some intercourse 
 with the natives of this country, about Poverty and Tolaga 
 Bays, where he apprehended they were more civiHsed than 
 at Queen Charlotte's Sound, in order to give them some hogs, 
 fowls, seeds, and roots, which he had provided for the purpose. 
 
 They arrived on the 21st, and passing Cape Kidnappers, 
 saw some canoes put off from the shore. Upon this 
 they lay-to, in order to give them time to come on board. 
 Those in the first canoe, which came alongside, were fisher- 
 men, and exchanged some fish for pieces of cloth and nails. 
 In the next were two men, who, by their dress and beha- 
 viour, seemed to be chiefs. These were easily prevailed upon 
 to come on board, when they were presented with nails and 
 other articles. The former they seized with such eager- 
 ness, as plainly showed they were the most highly prized. 
 To the principal of these men Captain Cook gave the pigs, 
 fowls, seeds, and roots. At first he did not think they were 
 intended for him, and took very little notice of them, till he 
 was satisfied they were for himself ; nor was he then in such 
 raptures as when Captain Cook gave him a spike-nail half 
 the length of his arm. However, on his going away, the 
 captain observed that he took care to have them all collected 
 together, and kept a watchful eye over them, lest any should 
 be taken away. He made a promise not to kill any pigs, and 
 if he kept his word, and proper care was taken of them, there 
 were enough to stock the whole island in due time. The 
 seeds were wheat, French and kidney beans, peas, cabbage, 
 turnips, onions, carrots, parsnips, and yams. It was evident 
 these people had not forgot the Endeavour being on their 
 coast, for the first words they spoke were, " We are afraid of 
 the great guns." As they could not be strangers to the affair 
 of Cape Kidnappers, in the former voyage, experience had 
 taught them to have sound dread of these instruments of 
 death. 
 
 They now sailed for the southward, and for two days were 
 beating up against a hard gale. When they arrived just in 
 sight of port they had the mortification to be driven off from 
 the land bv a furious storm. 
 
174 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 They continued to battle against tempestuous weather till 
 the 30th, when they lost sight of the Adventure. In the 
 afternoon the gale abated. Captain Cook now regretted her 
 absence, for had she been with him he would have given up 
 all thoughts of going to Queen Charlotte's Sound to wood 
 and water, and have sought for a place further south, as the 
 wind was now favourable for ranging along the coast. As 
 they approached the land they saw smoke in several places 
 along the shore, a sure sign that the coast was inhabited. 
 They continued to stand to the eastward all night, in hopes 
 of meeting with the Adventure in the morning, but in this 
 they were disappointed, and soon encountered another storm. 
 
 After a succession of calms and brisk gales, in tracing the 
 coast they discovered, on the east side of Cape Teerawhitte, 
 a new inlet they had never observed before, into which they 
 entered and cast anchor. Soon after they had brought-to, 
 several of the natives came off in their canoes, two from one 
 shore and one from the other. It required but little address 
 to get three or four of them on board. These people were 
 extravagantly fond of nails above every other thing. To one 
 man the captain gave two cocks and two hens, which he 
 received with so much indifference as gave little hopes that 
 he would take proper care of them. They had not been at 
 anchor here above two hours when the wind veered to the 
 N.E., upon which they weighed and steered for the Sound, 
 where they arrived just at dark, with most of their sails split. 
 
 The next morning, the 3rd of November, the gale abated, 
 and was succeeded by a few hours' calm ; after that a breeze 
 sprang up from the N.W., with which they weighed and 
 ran up into Ship Cove, where they did not find the Adventure^ 
 as was expected. 
 
 Here they saw the youngest of the two sows Captain 
 Furneaux had put on shore in Cannibal Cove when they were 
 last here. It was lame of one of its hind legs, otherwise in 
 good case and very tame. If they understood these people 
 right, the boar and other sow were also taken away and 
 separated, but not killed. The two goats had been killed. 
 Thus all their endeavours to stock this country with useful 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. \^% 
 
 animals were on the point of being frustrated by the very 
 people they meant to serve. The gardens had fared some- 
 what better. Everything in them, except the potatoes, had 
 been left entirely to nature, who had acted her part so well 
 that most articles were in a flourishing state, a proof that the 
 winter must have been mild. The potatoes had most of 
 them been dug up ; some, however, still remained and were 
 growing. 
 
 Next morning Captain Cook sent over to the cove, where 
 the natives resided, to haul the seine, and took with him a 
 boar and a young sow, two cocks and two hens they had 
 brought from the isles. These he gave to the natives, being 
 persuaded they would take care of them, by their having kept 
 Captain Furneaux's sow near five months. When they were 
 purchasing fish from these people, they showed a great 
 inclination to pick pockets, and to take away the fish with 
 one hand which they had just sold or bartered with the 
 other. 
 
 This evil one, of the chiefs undertook to remove, and with 
 fury in his eyes pretended to keep the people at a proper 
 distance. The captain says, " I applauded his conduct, but 
 kept so good a look-out as to detect him in picking my 
 pocket of a handkerchief, which I suffered him to put in his 
 bosom before I seemed to know anything of the matter, and 
 then told him what I had lost. He seemed quite innocent 
 and ignorant till I took it from him, and then he put it 
 off with a laugh, acting his part with so much address that it 
 was hardly possible for me to be angry with him ; so we re- 
 mained good friends, and he accompanied me on board to 
 dinner." About this time they were visited by several 
 strangers in four or five canoes. These new comers took up 
 their quarters in a cove near the tents ; but very early in the 
 morning moved off with six small water casks, and with them 
 all the people they found here on their arrival. They left 
 behind them some of their dogs, and the boar which had 
 been given them the day before, which the captain now took 
 back again, as he had not another. 
 
 In unpacking the bread, 4,292 lbs. were found totally unfit 
 
176 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 to eat, and about 3,000 more could only be eaten by people 
 in their situation. 
 
 Very early in the morning of the 22nd they were visited by 
 a number of the natives, in four or five canoes, very few of 
 whom they had seen before. 
 
 These people brought with them various articles for barter ; 
 at first the exchanges were much in the sailors' favour, till an 
 old man, who was no stranger, came and assisted his country- 
 men with his advice. 
 
 After the natives were gone, the captain took three sows 
 and a boar, two cocks and two hens, which he landed at the 
 bottom of the West Bay, carrying them a little way into the 
 woods, where he left them with as much food as would serve 
 them ten or twelve days. This was done with a view of 
 keeping them in the woods, lest they should come down on 
 the shore in search of food, and be discovered by the natives. 
 
 Having now put the ship in a condition for sea, and to 
 encounter the southern latitudes, the tents were struck and 
 everything got on board. 
 
 The boatswain, with a party of men, being in the woods, 
 cutting broom, some of them found a private hut of the 
 natives, in which was deposited most of the treasures they 
 had received from them, as well as some other articles of 
 their own. Complaint was soon made by the natives that 
 some articles had been carried off, and they particularly 
 charged one man with the theft. The captain having ordered 
 him to be punished before them, they went away seemingly 
 satisfied, although they did not recover any of the things they 
 had lost. It was ever a maxim with Captain Cook to punish 
 the smallest crimes of any of his people committed against 
 these uncivilised nations, for he considered their robbing them 
 with impunity was by no means a sufficient reason why the 
 Europeans should do likewise. 
 
 Calm light air from the north all day on the 23rd hindered 
 them from putting to sea as intended. In the afternoon 
 some of the officers went on shore to amuse themselves 
 among the natives, where they saw the head and bowels of a 
 youth, who had lately been killed in a skirmish, lying on the 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 177 
 
 beach, and the heart stuck on a forked stick, which was fixed 
 to the head of one of the largest canoes. One of the gentle- 
 men bought the head, and brought it on board, where a piece 
 of the flesh was broiled and eaten by one of the natives, 
 before all the officers and most of the men. Captain Cook 
 was on shore at this time, but soon after returning on board 
 was informed of the circumstance, and found the quarter- 
 deck crowded with the natives, and the mangled head, or 
 rather part of it, lying on the taffrail. The skull had been 
 broken on the left side, just above the temples, and the 
 remains of the face had all the appearance of a youth of 
 twenty. The sight of the head and the relation of the above 
 circumstances struck him with horror, and filled his mind 
 with indignation against these cannibals. Curiosity, how- 
 ever, got the better of his indignation, especially when he 
 considered that it would avail but little ; and being desirous 
 of becoming an eye-witness of a fact which many doubted, he 
 ordered a piece of the flesh to be broiled and brought to the 
 quarter-deck, where one of these cannibals ate it with sur- 
 prising avidity. This had such an effect on some of the 
 sailors as to make them sick. 
 
 That the New Zealanders are cannibals cannot be doubted, 
 though the account given of this in Captain Cook's former 
 voyage was discredited by many persons. 
 
 On the 25th they weighed. Captain Cook having on the 
 previous morning written a memorandum setting forth the 
 time he arrived, the day he sailed, the route he intended to 
 take, and such other information as he thought necessary for 
 Captain Furneaux, in case he should put into the Sound, and 
 buried it in a bottle under the root of a tree in the garden, in 
 such a manner as must have been found by him, or any 
 European who might put into the cove. Everyone being 
 unanimously of opinion that the Adventure could neither be 
 stranded on the coast, nor be in any of the harbours, they 
 gave up all thoughts of seeing her any more during the 
 voyage, as no rendezvous was fixed upon after leaving New 
 Zealand. 
 
 On the 14th of December they fell in with several large 
 
 M 
 
178 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 icebergs, and about noon with a quantity of loose ice, through 
 which they sailed. Gray albatrosses, blue petrels, and other 
 sea birds, were seen. As they advanced with a fresh gale 
 from the west, they found the number of icebergs greatly to 
 increase, also a considerable quantity of loose ice. They 
 tacked, stretched to the north, and soon got clear of it, but not 
 before they had received several hard knocks from the larger 
 pieces, which, with all their care, they could not avoid. After 
 clearing one danger, they still had another to encounter ; for 
 the weather remained foggy, and many large islands lay in 
 their way. 
 
 On the 2 1 St they suddenly found themselves amongst a 
 cluster of large icebergs and a vast quantity of loose pieces ; 
 and, as the fog was very thick, it was with the utmost diffi- 
 culty they got clear of them. On the 23rd, the wind being 
 pretty moderate and the sea smooth, they brought-to at the 
 outer edge of the ice, hoisted out two boats, and sent to take 
 some up. The snow froze on the rigging as it fell, making 
 the ropes like wires and the sails like boards or plates of 
 metal. 
 
 On the 30th of January, 1774, very early in the morning, they 
 perceived the clouds over the horizon to the south to be of an 
 unusual snow-white brightness, which they knew denoted 
 their approach to field-ice. Soon after, they were close to 
 its edge. It extended east and west far beyond the reach of 
 their sight. Ninety-seven ice hills were distinctly seen 
 within the field, besides those on the outside ; many of them 
 very large and looking like a ridge of mountains, rising one 
 above another, till they were lost in the clouds. The outer 
 or northern edge of this immense field was composed of 
 loose or broken ice close packed together, so that it was not 
 possible for anything to enter it. This was about a mile 
 broad, within which was sohd ice in one continued compact 
 body. It was rather low and flat, except the hills, but seemed 
 to increase in height to the south, in which direction it ex- 
 tended beyond their sight. 
 
 Captain Cook says, " I will not say it was impossible any- 
 where to get further to the south, but the attempting it would 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 179 
 
 have been a dangerous and rash enterprise, and what I 
 believe no man in my situation would have thought of. I, 
 who had an ambition not only to go farther than any one had 
 been before, but as far as it was possible for man to go, was 
 not sorry to meet with this interruption, as it in some 
 measure relieved us, and at least shortened the dangers and 
 hardships inseparable from the navigation of the southern 
 polar regions. Since, therefore, we could not proceed one 
 inch farther to the south, no other reason need be assigned 
 for my tacking and standing to the north." The captain now 
 came to the resolution to proceed to the north, and to spend 
 the ensuing winter within the tropics, as he was now quite 
 satisfied that no continent existed in this ocean, but what 
 must he so far to the south as to be totally inaccessible on 
 account of the ice ; and that if one should be found in the 
 South Atlantic Ocean, it would be necessary to have the 
 whole summer to explore it. 
 
 They now steered north, inclining to the east, and in the 
 evening were overtaken by a furious storm, attended with 
 snow and sleet. It came so suddenly upon them that before 
 they could take in their sails two of them were blown to 
 pieces, and the others much damaged. 
 
 On the 25th Captain Cook was taken ill of a bilious colic, 
 which was so violent as to confine him to his bed, so that the 
 management of the ship was left to Mr. Cooper, the first 
 lieutenant, who performed his duties much to his satisfaction. 
 It was several days before the dangerous symptoms of his 
 disorder were removed. When he began to recover, a 
 favourite dog belonging to Mr. Foster fell a sacrifice to his 
 tender stomach. They had no other fresh meat whatever on 
 board, and the captain could eat of this flesh as well as broth 
 made of it, when he could taste nothing else. Thus he re- 
 ceived nourishment and strength from food which would have 
 made most people in Europe sick ; so true it is that necessity 
 is governed by no law. 
 
 At eight o'clock in the morning of the nth of March land 
 was seen from the mast-head, bearing west, about twelve 
 leagues distant. They now tacked, and endeavoured to get 
 
i8o COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 into what appeared to be a bay, on the west side of the point ; 
 but before this could be accomphshed night came upon them, 
 and they stood on and off, under the land, till next morning. 
 This is called Easter Island or Davis' Land. Here a canoe, 
 conducted by two men, came off. They brought with them 
 a bunch of plantains, which they sent into the ship by a rope, 
 and then returned ashore. This gave the captain a good 
 opinion of the islanders, and inspired them with hopes of 
 getting some provisions, of which they were much in want. 
 They continued to range along the coast till they opened the 
 northern point of the isle. While the ship was working in, a 
 native came on board. The first thing he did was to measure 
 the length of the ship, by fathoming her from the taffrail to 
 the stem ; and as he counted the fathoms they observed that 
 he called the numbers by the same names they do at 
 Otaheite. Nevertheless, his language was nearly unin- 
 telligible to them. Next morning the captain went ashore, 
 accompanied by some of the gentlemen, to see what the 
 island was likely to afford. They landed on a sandy beach, 
 where some hundreds of the natives were assembled, who 
 were so impatient to see them that many swam off to 
 meet the boats. Not one of them had so much as a stick 
 or weapon of any sort in his hand. After distributing a few 
 trinkets among them, they made signs for something to eat, 
 on which they brought down a few potatoes, plantains, and 
 sugar-canes, and exchanged them for nails, looking-glasses, 
 and pieces of cloth. They soon discovered that they were 
 expert thieves, and as cheating in their exchanges as any 
 people they had yet met with. It was with some difficulty 
 they could keep their hats on their heads, but it was hardly 
 possible to keep anything in their pockets, not even what they 
 had just bought, for they would watch every opportunity to 
 snatch it from them, so that they sometimes bought the same 
 thing two or three times over, and after all did not get it. 
 
 The captain was obliged to content himself with remaining 
 at the landing-place among the natives, as he had not yet 
 recovered. They had a pretty brisk trade with them for 
 potatoes, which were dug out of an adjoining plantation; but 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE, i8i 
 
 this traffic was soon put a stop to, by the owner of the 
 plantation coming down and driving all the people out of it. 
 By this they concluded that he had' been robbed of his 
 property, and that they were not less scrupulous of stealing 
 from one another than from their visitors, on whom they 
 practised every little fraud they could think of, and generally 
 with success ; for they had no sooner detected them in one, 
 than they found out another. A party who had been sent out 
 in the morning to view the country now returned. They had 
 not proceeded far before a middle-aged man, punctured from 
 head to foot, and his face painted with a sort of white pig- 
 ment, appeared with a spear in his hand, and walked along- 
 side of them, making signs to his countrymen to keep at a 
 distance, and not to molest them. When he had pretty well 
 effected this, he hoisted a piece of white cloth on his spear, 
 placed himself in front, and led the way with this ensign of 
 peace. 
 
 On the east side, near the sea, they met with three plat- 
 forms of stone work, or rather the ruins of them ; on each of 
 these had stood four large statues, but they were all fallen 
 down from two of the platforms, and also one from the 
 third ; only one was uninjured by the fall, or in no degree 
 defaced. Mr. Wales measured this one, and found it to be 
 15 feet in length and 6 feet broad over the shoulders. 
 Each statue had on its head a large cylindrical stone 
 of a red colour, wrought perfectly round. The one they 
 measured, which was not the largest, was 52 inches high 
 and 66 inches in diameter. In some the upper corner of the 
 cylinder was taken off in a sort of concave quarter round ; 
 but in others the cylinder was entire. Beyond this, they 
 came to the most fertile part of the island, it being inter- 
 spersed with plantations of potatoes, sugar-canes, and plan- 
 tain trees ; but they could find no water, except what the 
 natives twice or thrice brought them, which, though brackish 
 and stinking, was rendered acceptable by the extremity of 
 their thirst. They also passed some huts, the owners of 
 which met them with roasted potatoes and sugar-canes ; but 
 at the very time some were relieving the thirsty and hungry, 
 
iS2 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 there were others who endeavoured to steal from them the 
 very things which had been given them. At last, to prevent 
 worse consequences, they were obliged to fire a load of small 
 shot at one of them, who had been so audacious as to snatch 
 the bags which contained everything they carried with them. 
 The shot hit him on the back, on which he dropped the 
 bags, ran a little way, and then fell ; but he afterwards got 
 up and walked, and what became of him they knew not, nor 
 whether he was much wounded. This affair occasioned 
 some delay, and drew the natives together. They presently 
 saw the man who had hitherto led the way, and one or two 
 more come running towards them ; but, instead of stopping 
 when they came up, they continued to run round them, 
 repeating in a kind manner a few words, until they set for- 
 ward again. Then their old guide hoisted his flag, leading 
 the way as before, and none ever attempted to steal from 
 them the whole day afterwards. 
 
 They observed that the eastern side of the island was full 
 of gigantic statues, some placed in groups on platforms of 
 masonry, others single, fixed only in the earth, and in general 
 much larger than those in groups. Having measured one 
 which had fallen down, they found it very near 27 feet long, 
 and upwards of 8 feet over the shoulders, and yet this appeared 
 considerably short of the size of one they saw standing. They 
 saw no animals of any sort, and but few birds, and Captain 
 Cook determined to leave the island the next morning, since 
 nothing could be obtained that made it worth his while to 
 stay. 
 
 The produce of this island is sweet potatoes, yams, plan- 
 tains, and sugar-canes, all pretty good, the potatoes especially, 
 which are the best of the kind they ever tasted. They 
 have a few tame fowls, such as cocks and hens, but they 
 saw very little fish amongst the natives. The inhabitants 
 did not seem to exceed 700 souls, above two-thirds of whom 
 appeared to be males. They either have few women among 
 them, or else many were restrained from making their appear- 
 ance. In general the people of this isle are a slender race. 
 They did not see a man that would measure 6 feet, so far are 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 183 
 
 they from being giants, as one of the authors of Roggewein's 
 Voyage asserts. They are brisk and active, have good 
 features, and not disagreeable countenances, are friendly and 
 hospitable to strangers, but as much addicted to pilfering as 
 any of their neighbours. 
 
 The women's clothing is a piece or two of quilted cloth 
 about 6 feet by 4, or a mat. One piece wrapped round their 
 loins and another over their shoulders make a complete 
 dress. The men, for the most part, wear only a slip of cloth 
 betwixt their legs, each end of which is fastened to a cord or 
 belt round the waist. 
 
 On the 1 6th March the ship stood out to sea, and having a 
 steady, settled trade-wind and pleasant weather, the forge 
 was ordered to be set up to repair, and to make various 
 necessary articles in iron. On the 6th of April they saw an 
 isle which, as it was a new discovery, they named Hood's 
 Island, after the young gentleman who first saw it. The 
 second was that of St. Pedro, the third La Dominica, and 
 the fourth St. Christina, all of the Marquesas group. They 
 sailed along the S.E. coast of La Dominica without seeing 
 any anchorage. Some canoes put off from these places, and 
 followed them down the coast. At length, having come 
 before the port they were in search of, they cast anchor. 
 This was no sooner done, than about thirty or forty of the 
 natives came off in ten or twelve canoes ; but it required some 
 address to get them alongside. At last a hatchet and some 
 spike-nails induced the people in one canoe to come under 
 the quarter-gallery, after which all the others pulled along- 
 side, and, having exchanged some bread-fruit and fish for 
 nails, retired on shore. 
 
 Very early next morning the natives visited them again, in 
 much greater numbers than before, bringing with them 
 bread-fruit, plantains, and one pig, all of which they ex- 
 changed. But in this traffic they would frequently keep their 
 goods and make no return, till at last the captain was obliged 
 to fire a musket-ball over one man who had several times 
 served them in this manner, after which they dealt more 
 fairly, and soon after several of them came on board. As the 
 
i84 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 captain was going in a boat to look for a more convenient 
 place to moor the ship in, he observed too many of the natives 
 on board, and advised the officers to be on their guard. He 
 had hardly got into the boat before he was told that they had 
 stolen one of the iron stancheons, and were making off with 
 it. He ordered them to fire over the canoe ; but the natives 
 made too much noise for him to be heard, and the unhappy 
 thief was killed at the third shot. 
 
 At this unhappy accident, all the natives retired with pre- 
 cipitation. The captain followed them into the bay, and 
 prevailed on the people in one canoe to come alongside the 
 boat, and receive some nails and other things, which he gave 
 them. One would have thought that the natives, by this 
 time, would have been so sensible of the effect of firearms, as 
 not to have provoked them to fire upon them any more, but the 
 event proved otherwise ; for the boat had no sooner left the 
 kedge-anchor than the men in the canoe put off from the 
 shore, took hold of the buoy rope, and attempted to drag it 
 ashore. Two shots were fired at them, and at the second, 
 which passed over them, they let go the buoy and made for 
 the shore. This was the last shot they had occasion to fire 
 at any of them while they lay at this place. 
 
 On the loth April some people from more distant parts 
 came alongside in canoes, and sold some pigs ; so that they 
 now had sufficient to give the crew a fresh meal. After 
 dinner the captain went on shore and collected eighteen 
 hogs. Next morning he went down to the same place where 
 he had been the preceding evening ; but, instead of getting 
 pigs as he expected, found the scene quite changed. The 
 nails and other things they were mad after the evening 
 before, they now despised. The reason was, several of the 
 young gentlemen, having landed the preceding day, had given 
 away in exchange various articles which the people had not 
 seen before, and which pleased them more than nails or 
 more useful iron tools. Trade being thus stopped, the 
 captain prepared to leave this place, and go where their 
 wants might effectually be relieved ; for, after having been 
 nineteen weeks at sea, and living all the time on salt diet, 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 185 
 
 they were much in want of fresh provisions ; yet they had not 
 one sick man on board, owing to the many antiscorbutic 
 articles they took, and to the attention of the surgeon. 
 On the nth of April, at three o'clock in the afternoon, they 
 weighed. They had now but little wind, and that very 
 variable, with showers of rain. 
 
 The Marquesas were discovered by Mendana, a Spaniard, 
 and from him obtained the general name they now bear. 
 They are five in number, viz.. La Magdalena, St. Pedro, 
 La Dominica, Santa Christina, and Hood's Island, which 
 is the northernmost ; La Dominica is the largest. The 
 inhabitants are, without exception, the finest race of people 
 in this sea. For fine shape and regular features, they 
 perhaps surpass the other nations. Nevertheless, the affinity 
 of their language to that spoken in Otaheite and the Society 
 Isles show that they are of the same nation. Oedidee could 
 converse with them tolerably well ; and it was easy to see 
 that their language was nearly the same. The men, for the 
 most part, have nothing to cover their nakedness, except the 
 marra, as it is called at Otaheite, which is a slip of cloth 
 passed round the waist and betwixt the legs. This simple 
 dress is quite sufficient for the climate, and answers every 
 purpose modesty requires. The dress of the women is a 
 piece of cloth wrapped round the loins like a petticoat, which 
 reaches down below the middle of the leg, and a loose mantle 
 over their shoulders. 
 
 In eating, these people are by no means so cleanly as the 
 Otaheiteans. They are likewise dirty in their cookery. 
 Captain Cook says he saw them make a batter of fruit and 
 roots, diluted with water, in a vessel that was loaded with dirt, 
 and out of which the hogs had been eating, without either 
 washing it or their hands, which were equally dirty. 
 
 They proceeded with a fine easterly wind till the 17th, 
 when land was seen bearing W. half N., which, upon a nearer 
 approach, they found to be a string of low islets, connected to- 
 gether by a reef of coral rocks. As they steered along the coast 
 the natives appeared in several places, armed with long spears 
 and clubs. The captain sent two boats ashore, under the 
 
1^6 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 command of Lieutenant Cooper, with a view of having some 
 intercourse with them. The natives saw them land without 
 ofifering the least opposition. Some little time after, however, 
 observing forty or fifty natives, all armed, coming towards the 
 boats, they stood close in shore, in order to be ready to 
 support their people in case of an attack. But nothing of 
 the kind happened ; and soon after the boats returned on 
 board, when Mr. Cooper informed the captain that only a 
 few of the natives met him on the beach, though there were 
 many in the skirts of the woods, with spears in their hands. 
 The presents he made them were received with great cool- 
 ness, which plainly showed they were unwelcome visitors. 
 They brought on board five dogs, which seemed to be in 
 plenty there. They saw no fruit but cocoa-nuts, of which 
 they got two dozen by exchange. This island, which is 
 called by the inhabitants Tiookea, was discovered by Com- 
 modore Byron. It is something of an oval shape, and is 
 about ten leagues in circuit. 
 
 On the 1 8th, at daybreak, they bore down to another isle 
 to the westward, which they reached by eight o'clock, and 
 ranged about the S.E. side, one mile from shore. They 
 made the high land of Otaheite on the 21st of April, and at 
 eight o'clock the next morning anchored in Matavai Bay. 
 This was no sooner known to the natives than many of them 
 paid them a visit, and expressed not a little joy at seeing 
 them again. 
 
 On the 24th, Otoo the king, and several other chiefs, with 
 a train of attendants, brought them, as presents, ten or a 
 dozen large hogs, besides fruit. The captain, knowing how 
 much it was his interest to make this man his friend, met him 
 at the tents, and conducted him and his friend on board, 
 where they stayed to dinner, after which they were dismissed 
 with suitable presents, highly pleased with the reception they 
 had met with. They found these people building a great 
 number of large canoes and houses of every kind, some living 
 in spacious habitations who had not a place to shelter them- 
 selves in eight months before ; several large hogs about every 
 house, and every other sign of a rising state. Judging from 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE, 187 
 
 these circumstances that they would not fare better by re- 
 moving to another island, Captain Cook resolved to make 
 some stay. 
 
 In the morning of the 26th the captain went down to 
 Oparree, accompanied by some of the officers and gentlemen^ 
 to pay Otoo a visit. As they drew near they observed a 
 number of large canoes in motion, but were surprised when 
 they arrived to see upwards of 300, ranged in order, for some 
 distance along the shore, all completely equipped and manned, 
 besides a vast number of armed men upon the shore. So 
 unexpected an armament collected together in their neigh- 
 bourhood in the space of one night gave rise to various con- 
 jectures. The vessels of war consisted of 160 large double 
 canoes, very well equipped, manned, and armed. The chiefs 
 and fighting men were dressed in their war panoply, con- 
 sisting of a vast quantity of cloth, turbans, breast-plates, and 
 helmets. The vessels were decorated with flags and streamers, 
 so that the whole made a grand and noble appearance, such 
 as they had never before seen in this sea, and what no one 
 would have expected. Their instruments of war were clubs, 
 spears, and stones. Besides the vessels of war, there were 
 170 sail of smaller double canoes, all with a little house upon 
 them, and rigged with a mast and sail, which the war canoes 
 had not. These were designed for transports and victuallers 
 — for in the war canoes was no sort of provisions whatever. 
 In these 330 vessels there were no less than 7,760 men. Tupia 
 informed them, when they were first here, that the whole island 
 raised only between 6,000 and 7,000 men ; but now they saw 
 two districts only raise that number. They had not been 
 long gone from Oparree before the whole fleet was in motion 
 to the westward, whence it came. When they got to Matavai, 
 they were told that this fleet was part of the armament in- 
 tended to go against Eimeo, whose chief had thrown off the 
 yoke of Otaheite. 
 
 In the morning of the 27th of April the captain received a 
 present from a chief named Towha, consisting of two large 
 hogs, and some fruit sent by two of his servants, who had 
 orders to decline anything in return \ nor would they receive 
 
i88 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 what was offered to them. Soon after, he went down to 
 Oparree in his boat, where, having found both this chief and 
 the king, after a short stay he brought them both on board to 
 dinner, together with Tarevatoo, irp king's younger brother, 
 and Tee, his uncle. As they dre\V near the ship, Towha, the 
 admiral, who had never seen one before, began to express 
 much surprise. He was conducted all over the ship, every 
 part of which he viewed with great attention. On this 
 occasion, Otoo was the principal showman ; for, by this time, 
 he was well acquainted with the different parts of the ship. 
 Soon after, the king and his attendants went away also. 
 Captain Cook had been urged to assist them against Tiarabou, 
 but to their solicitations he gave no encouragement. 
 
 On the 28th, one of the natives attempted to steal a water- 
 cask from the watering-place ; he was caught in the act, sent 
 on board, and put in irons, in which situation Otoo and the 
 other chiefs saw him. Having made known his crime to 
 them, Otoo begged he might be set at liberty. This the 
 captain refused, telling him that since he punished his 
 people when they committed the least offence against the 
 natives, it was but just this man should be punished also. 
 Accordingly he ordered the man to be carried on shore to 
 the tents ; and having expostulated with Otoo on the conduct 
 of his people in general, telling him that neither he nor any 
 of his people took anything from them without first paying 
 for it, he added that punishing this offender would be the 
 means of saving the lives of others of his people, by deterring 
 them from committing crimes of this nature. With these and 
 other arguments, which he pretty well understood, he seemed 
 satisfied, and only desired the man might not be killed. The 
 captain then ordered the crowd, which was very great, to be 
 kept at a proper distance, and, in the presence of them all, 
 ordered the fellow two dozen lashes with the cat-o'-nine-tails, 
 which he bore with great firmness, and was then set at liberty. 
 After this the natives were going away, but Towha stepped 
 forth, called them back, and harangued them for nearly half 
 an hour. His speech consisted of short sentences, which 
 were not well understood ; but from what they could gather, 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE, 189 
 
 he condemned their present conduct, and recommended a 
 different one for the future. The gracefulness of his action, 
 and the attention with which he was heard, bespoke him a 
 great orator. Otoo remained silent. As soon as Towha 
 had ended his speech, the captain ordered the marines to go 
 through their exercise, and to load and fire volleys with ball ; 
 and as they were very quick in their manoeuvres, it is easier 
 to conceive than to describe the amazement the natives were 
 under the whole time. This being over, the chiefs took leave 
 and retired with all their attendants, scarcely more pleased 
 than frightened at what they had seen. 
 
 On going ashore on the morning of the 7th they found 
 Otoo at the tents, and took the opportunity of asking his leave 
 to cut down some trees for fuel, which he readily granted. 
 The captain told him he should cut down no trees that bore 
 any fruit. He v/as pleased with this declaration, and told it 
 aloud several times to the people about them. 
 
 The following night all their friendly connections received an 
 interruption through the negligence of one of the sentries on 
 shol^e. He having either slept or quitted his post, one of the 
 natives carried off his musket. The first news the captain 
 heard of it was from Tee, whom Otoo had sent on board for 
 that purpose. They were not well enough acquainted with 
 their language to understand all Tee's story, but they under- 
 stood enough to know that something had happened which 
 had alarmed the king. In order, therefore, to be fully in- 
 formed, the captain went ashore with Tee. As soon as they 
 landed, he was informed of the whole by the sergeant who 
 commanded the party. The natives were all alarmed, and 
 most of them fled. Tee and the captain went to look for 
 Otoo, and as they advanced he endeavoured to allay the fears 
 of the people, but at the same time insisted on the musket 
 being restored. After travelling some distance into the 
 country. Tee stopped all at once, and advised the captain to 
 return, saying that Otoo was gone to the mountains, and he 
 would proceed and tell him that he (the captain) was still his 
 friend. Tee also promised that he would use his endeavours 
 to recover the musket. 
 
190 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 The captain returned to the ship, and soon after he ob- 
 served six large canoes coming round Point Venus. There 
 being room for suspecting that some persons belonging to 
 these canoes had committed the theft, he came to a resolution 
 to intercept them, and having put off in a boat for that pur- 
 pose, he gave orders for another to follow. One of the 
 canoes, which was some distance ahead of the rest, came 
 directly for the ship. He went alongside this, and was told 
 that Otoo was then at the tents. Pleased with this news, he 
 contradicted the orders he had given for intercepting the 
 other canoes, thinking they might be coming on board also- 
 But when he landed he was told that Otoo had not been 
 there, nor did they know anything of him. On looking be- 
 hind him, he saw all the canoes making off in the greatest 
 haste ; even the one he had left alongside the ship was 
 making her escape. Vexed at being thus outwitted, he re-, 
 solved to pursue them, and as he passed the ship gave orders 
 to send another boat for the same purpose. Five out of the 
 six canoes they took, and brought alongside ; but the first, 
 which had finessed so well, got clear off. 
 
 In one of the canoes they had taken was a chief, a friend 
 of Mr. Foster's, who had hitherto called himself an Earee, 
 and would have been much offended if any one had called 
 his title in question ; also three women — his wife and daughter, 
 and the mother of the late Tootahah. These, together with 
 the canoes, the captain resolved to detain, and to send the 
 chief to Otoo ; thinking he would have weight enough with 
 him to obtain the return of the musket, as his own property 
 was at stake. In the dusk of the evening it was brought to 
 the tents, together with some other things they had lost, 
 which they knew nothing of, by three men who had pursued 
 the thief, and taken them from him. The captain, who could 
 not gather whether they took this trouble of their own accord, 
 or by order of Otoo, rewarded them, and made no further 
 inquiry about it. When the musket and other things were 
 brought in, every one then present, or who came after, pre- 
 tended to have some hand in recovering them, and claimed 
 a reward accordingly. But there was no one acted this farce 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE, 191 
 
 so well as Nuno, a man of some note, and well known to 
 Captain Cook, when he was here in 1769. This man came 
 with all the savage fury imaginable in his countenance, and a 
 large club in his hand, with which he beat about him, in order 
 to show how he alone had killed the thief ; when, at the same 
 time, they all knew that he had not been out of his house the 
 whole time. 
 
 Things were now once more restored to their former state ; 
 and Otoo promised, on his part, that the next day they should 
 be supplied as usual. They then returned with him to his 
 proper residence at Oparree, and there took a view of some 
 of his dockyards (for such they well deserved to be called), 
 and large canoes, some lately built, and others building, two 
 of which were the largest they had ever seen under that 
 name. They now returned to the ship. Otoo being desirous 
 to see the great guns fired from the ship, the captain ordered 
 twelve to be shotted and fired towards the sea. As he had 
 never seen a cannon fired before, the sight gave him as much 
 pain as pleasure. In the evening they entertained him with 
 fireworks, which gave him great satisfaction. Thus ended 
 all their differences. 
 
 As the most essential repairs of the ship were nearly 
 finished, it was resolved to leave Otaheite in a few days ; the 
 captain accordingly ordered everything to be got off from 
 the shore, that the natives might see they were about to 
 depart. 
 
 On the 1 2th, old Oberea, the woman who, when the 
 Dolphin was here in 1767, was thought to be queen of the 
 island, and whom they had not seen since 1769, paid them a 
 visit, and brought a present of hogs and fruit. Soon after 
 Otoo arrived with a great retinue, and a large quantity of pro- 
 visions. The captain was pretty generous in his returns, 
 thinking it might be the last time he should see these good 
 people, who had so liberally relieved their wants ; and, in the 
 evening, entertained them with fireworks. 
 
 On the 14th they saw a number of war canoes coming 
 round the point of Oparree. Being desirous of having a 
 nearer view of them, accompanied by many officers and 
 
192 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 gentlemen, they hastened down to Oparree, which they 
 reached before all the canoes were landed, and had an 
 opportunity of seeing in what manner they approached the 
 shore. When they got before the landing-place, they formed 
 themselves into divisions, and then each division, one after 
 the other, paddled in for the shore with all their might, in 
 the most exact and regular manner. All their motions were 
 observed with such quickness as clearly showed them to be 
 expert in their business. Otoo, who was present, caused 
 some of his troops to go through their exercise on shore. 
 Two parties first began with clubs, but this was over almost 
 as soon as begun, so that they had no time to make observa- 
 tions. They then went to single combat, and exhibited the 
 various methods of fighting with great alertness, parrying off 
 the blows and pushes which each combatant aimed at the 
 other with great dexterity. Their arms were clubs and 
 spears ; the latter they also used as darts. In fighting with 
 the club, all blows intended to be given the legs were evaded 
 by leaping over it, and those intended for the head by couch- 
 ing a little and leaping on one side. 
 
 The hospitality at this isle was such as to induce one of the 
 gunner's mates to form a plan to remain at it ; but he was 
 discovered before he could effect his purpose. He was an 
 Irishman by birth, and had sailed in the Dutch service. The 
 captain picked him up at Batavia, on his return from his 
 former voyage, and he had been with him ever since. Having 
 neither friends nor connections to confine him to any par- 
 ticular part of the world, all nations were alike to him. 
 
 The two goats which Captain Furneaux gave to Otoo when 
 they were last here, seemed to promise fair for answering the 
 end for which they were put on shore. The ewe soon after 
 had two female kids, which were now well grown. The sheep 
 which they left died soon after, excepting one, which they 
 understood was yet alive. They also furnished them with a 
 stock of cats, no less than twenty having been given away at 
 this isle. 
 
 In the afternoon, on the 15th of May, they anchored in 
 O'Wharre Harbour, in the island of Huaheine, when Oree, 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 193 
 
 the chief, brought a hog and other articles to the captain, 
 who in return invited him and his friends to dinner. In the 
 evening of the 17th, some of the gentlemen went to a dramatic 
 entertainment given by Oree. The piece represented a girl 
 as running away with them from Otaheite, which was in some 
 degree true, as a young woman had taken a passage with 
 them down to Ulietea, and happened now to be present at 
 the representation of her own adventures ; this had such an 
 effect upon her that it was with great difficulty the gentlemen 
 could prevail upon her to see the play out, or to refrain from 
 shedding tears while it was acting. 
 
 Some of the petty officers, who had leave to go into the 
 country for their amusement, took two of the natives with 
 them as guides, and to carry their bags, containing nails, 
 hatchets, and other articles, the current cash they traded 
 with here, which the fellows made off" with in the following 
 artful manner. The petty officers having with them two 
 muskets for shooting birds, their guides pointed out some 
 for them to kill. One of the muskets, owing to the rain, 
 having missed fire several times, and the other having gone 
 off, the instant the fellows saw themselves secure from both 
 they ran away, leaving the gentlemen gazing after them with 
 so much surprise, that no one had presence of mind to 
 pursue them. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 23rd they unmoored and put 
 to sea. Oree, the chief, was the last man who went out of 
 the ship. At parting, the captain told him they should see 
 each other no more, at which he wept, and said, " Let your 
 sons come : we will treat them well." As soon as they were 
 clear of the harbour, they made sail, and stood over for the 
 south end of Ulietea, where they dropped anchor the next 
 day. 
 
 On the 25th a party went ashore to pay the chief a visit, 
 and make the customary present. At their first entering his 
 house, they were met by four or five old women, weeping and . 
 lamenting, as it were, most bitterly, and at the same time 
 cutting their heads with instruments made of shark's teeth, 
 till the blood ran plentifully down their faces and on their 
 
 N 
 
194 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 shoulders. What was still worse, they were obliged to 
 submit to the embraces of these old hags, and by that means 
 were all besmeared with blood. This ceremony being over, 
 they went out, washed themselves, and immediately after 
 appeared as cheerful as any of the company. The captain 
 made his presents, and after some little stay returned on 
 board. 
 
 On the 30th, one of the chiefs made the captain a present 
 of two pigs. He invited them to dinner, and ordered one of 
 the pigs to be killed and dressed, which was done as follows : 
 the hog being placed on his back, two of them laid a pretty 
 strong stick across his throat, and pressed with all their 
 weight on each end ; the third man held his hind legs for 
 about ten minutes, when the animal was strangled. The hog 
 weighed about fifty pounds ; it was baked in their usual 
 manner, and had an excellent flavour. 
 
 The captain having fixed on the 4th of June, his Majesty's 
 birthday, for sailing, Oree, the chief, and his whole family 
 came on board to take their farewell, accompanied by 
 Oo-oo-rou, and several more chiefs and their friends. None 
 came empty; but Oo-oo-rou brought a pretty large present, 
 this being his first and only visit. The captain distributed 
 amongst them almost everything he had left. The very 
 hospitable manner in which he had ever been received by 
 these people had endeared them to him, and given them a 
 just title to everything in his power to grant. Oree pressed 
 him to return, and when the captain declined making any 
 promises on that head, he asked the name of his moral 
 (burying-place). As to this strange question he hesitated not 
 a moment to tell him Stepney, the parish in which he lived 
 when in London. He was requested to repeat it several 
 times over, till they could pronounce it right ; then " Stepney 
 moral no toote" was echoed through a hundred mouths at 
 once. What greater proof could they have of these people 
 esteeming them as friends than their wishing to remember 
 them even beyond the grave? They had been repeatedly 
 told that they should see them no more ; they then wanted 
 to know where they were to mingle with their parent dust 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 195 
 
 As they could not promise, or even suppose, that more 
 EngHsh ships would be sent to those isles, their faithful 
 companion, Oedidee, chose to remain in his native country; 
 but he left the ship with a regret fully demonstrative of the 
 esteem he had for them. Just as Oedidee was going out of 
 the ship, he asked Captain Cook to give him a paper in order 
 to show the commanders of other ships which might stop 
 here. He complied with his request, gave him a certificate 
 of the time he had been with them, and recommended him to 
 the notice of those who might touch at the island after them. 
 On leaving the harbour they fired a salute in honour of the 
 day. 
 
 Nothing particular happened for more than a week. On 
 the i6th, just after sunrise, land was seen from the topmast- 
 head. They immediately steered for it, and found it to be an 
 island composed of five or six woody islets, connected 
 together by sand-banks and breakers, enclosing a lake, 
 into which they could see no entrance. The captain looked 
 upon this as a new discovery, and named it Palmerston 
 Island, in honour of Lord Palmerston, one of the Lords of 
 the Admiralty. On the 20th they again saw land ; and, as 
 they drew nearer, found it to be an island of considerable 
 extent. Perceiving some people on the shore, and landing 
 seeming to be easy, they hoisted out the boats, with which 
 they put off to the land, accompanied by some of the officers 
 and gentlemen. Friendly signs were made to the natives, 
 which were answered by menaces. All endeavours to bring 
 them to a parley were to no purpose ; for they advanced 
 with the ferocity of wild boars, and threw their darts. Two 
 or three muskets discharged in the air did not hinder one of 
 them advancing still farther, and throwing another dart, 
 which passed close over the captain's shoulder. His temerity 
 would have cost him his life, had not the captain's musket 
 missed fire. The conduct and aspect of these islanders 
 occasioned the captain to name it Savages' Island. They 
 seemed to be stout, well-made men, were naked, except round 
 the waists, and some of them had their faces, breasts, and 
 thighs painted black. 
 
196 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 On the 26th of June they arrived off the coast of Rotter- 
 dam. Before they had well got to an anchor, the natives 
 came off from all parts in canoes, bringing with them yams 
 and shaddocks, which they exchanged for small nails and old 
 rags. Early in the morning the captain went ashore with 
 Mr. Gilbert, to look for fresh water, and was received with 
 great courtesy by the natives. After they had distributed 
 some presents amongst them, he asked for water, and was 
 conducted to a brackish pond, about three-fourths of a mile 
 from the landing-place, which he supposed to be the same 
 that Tasman watered at. In the meantime, the people left in 
 the boat had laden her with fruit and roots which the 
 natives had brought down, and exchanged for nails and 
 beads. In the afternoon the surgeon was robbed of his 
 gun. As soon as the captain heard of this, he went to the 
 place where the robbery was committed, but took no steps to 
 recover it ; in this he acknowledged he was wrong, as it 
 encouraged further aggressions. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 28th, Lieutenant Gierke, with 
 the master and fourteen or fifteen men, went on shore in the 
 launch for water. He had no sooner landed than the natives 
 gathered about him, behaving in so rude a manner that the 
 officers were in some doubt if they should land the casks ; 
 however, they ventured, and, with difficulty, got them filled 
 and into the boat again. While thus employed, Mr. Gierke's 
 gun was snatched from him and carried off, as were also 
 some of the cooper's tools and other articles. All this was 
 done, as it were, by stealth, for they laid hold of nothing by 
 main force. The captain landed just as the launch was ready 
 to put off, and the natives, who were pretty numerous on the 
 beach, as soon as they saw him fled, so that he suspected 
 something had happened. However, he prevailed on many 
 of them to stay. Being informed of all the preceding cir- 
 cumstances, he quickly came to a resolution to oblige them 
 to make restitution, and for this purpose ordered all the 
 marines to be armed and sent on shore. He then sent 
 all the boats off but one, with which he remained, having 
 a good many of the natives about him, who behaved with 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 197 
 
 their usual courtesy ; but he made them so sensible 
 of his intention, that long before the marines came Mr. 
 Gierke's musket was brought, though they used many 
 excuses to divert him from insisting on the restoration of the 
 surgeon's. At length, Mr. Edgecumbe arriving with the 
 marines, this alarmed them so much that some fled. Only 
 one person was wounded before the musket was brought and 
 laid down at his feet. He then ordered some canoes he had 
 seized to be restored, to show them on what account they 
 were detained. 
 
 On returning to go on board, Captain Cook found many 
 people collected together, from whom he understood that the 
 man he had fired at was dead. This story the captain treated 
 as improbable, and addressed a man, who seemed of some 
 consequence, for the restitution of the cooper's adze they had 
 lost in the morning. He immediately sent away two men, as 
 he thought, for it, but he soon found they had greatly mistaken 
 each other, for instead of the adze they brought the wounded 
 man, stretched out on a board, and laid him down at his feet, 
 to all appearance dead. He was much moved at the sight, 
 but soon discovered that he was only wounded in the hand 
 and thigh. He therefore sent for the surgeon to dress the 
 wounds, which were not dangerous. In the meantime he 
 addressed several people for the adze, particularly an elderly 
 woman, who had always a great deal to say to him from his 
 first landing; but on this occasion she gave her tongue full 
 scope. The captain understood but little of her eloquence ; 
 but when she found he was determined, she and three or four 
 more women went away, and soon after the adze was brought, 
 but he saw her no more. 
 
 After leaving Rotterdam, or Anamooka, on the 30th, they 
 saw the summit of Amattafoo, but not clear enough to deter- 
 mine with certainty whether there was a volcano or not ; but 
 everything they could see concurred to make them believe 
 there was one. As the captain intended to get to the south, 
 in order to explore the land that might lie there, they con- 
 tinued to work between the isle of Lepers and Aurora, and 
 on the 19th of July the last-mentioned isle bore south, distant 
 
198 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 twenty miles. At daybreak on the 21st they found them- 
 selves before the channel that divides Whitsuntide Island 
 from the South Land, which is above two leagues across. 
 Having sent the armed boats to sound and look for an 
 anchorage, the ship soon followed. 
 
 Next morning many of the natives came round them, some 
 in canoes and others swimming. The captain soon prevailed 
 on one to come on board, which he no sooner did than he 
 was followed by more than he desired, so that not only the 
 deck but the rigging was presently filled with them. He 
 took four of them into the cabin, and gave them various 
 articles, which they showed to those in the canoes, and 
 seemed much pleased with their reception. While he was 
 thus making friends with those in the cabin an accident 
 happened, that threw all into confusion, but in the end proved 
 advantageous. A fellow in a canoe, having been refused 
 admittance into one of the boats that lay alongside, bent his 
 bow to shoot a poisoned arrow at the boat-keeper ; some of his 
 countrymen prevented his doing it that instant, and gave time 
 to acquaint the captain with it. The fellow, however, seemed 
 resolved, and directed his bow again at the boat-keeper ; but, 
 on the captain calling to him, pointed it at him. Having a 
 musket in his hand, loaded with small shot, he gave him the 
 contents. This staggered him for a moment, but did not 
 prevent him from holding his bow still in the attitude of 
 shooting ; another discharge of the same nature made him 
 drop it. At this time some began to shoot arrows on the 
 other side. A musket discharged in the air had no effect, 
 but a 4-pound shot fired over their heads sent them off in 
 the utmost confusion. 
 
 Being unwilling to lose the benefit of the moonlight nights, 
 which now happened, they weighed on the 23rd July, and 
 quitted the harbour. When the natives saw them under sail, 
 they came off in their canoes, making exchanges with more 
 confidence than before, and giving extraordinary proofs of 
 their honesty. As the ship at first had full way through the 
 water, several of them dropped astern after they had received 
 goods, and before they had time to deliver theirs ir^ return. 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 199 
 
 Instead of taking advantage of this, they used their utmost 
 efforts to get up with them, and to dehver what they had 
 already been paid for. Pieces of cloth and marble paper 
 were in most esteem with them, but edge-tools, nails, and 
 beads they seemed to disregard. Had they made a longer 
 stay, they might soon have been upon good terms with this 
 people, who, in general, were the most ugly, ill-proportioned 
 natives they ever saw, and in every respect different from any 
 they had met with in this sea. They are a dark-coloured and 
 diminutive race, with long heads, flat faces, and monkey 
 countenances. Their hair, mostly black or brown, is short 
 and curly, but quite as soft and woolly as that of a negro. 
 Their beards are very strong, crisp, and bushy, and gene- 
 rally black and short. But what most adds to their defor- 
 mity, is a belt or cord which they wear round the waist, and 
 tie tight over the belly ; the men go quite naked, except a 
 piece of cloth or leaf used as a wrapper. 
 
 They saw but few women, and they were not less ugly than 
 the men ; their heads, faces, and shoulders are painted red. 
 They wear a kind of petticoat ; and some of them had some- 
 thing over their shoulders like a bag, in which they carry 
 their children. None of them came off to the ship, and they 
 generally kept at a distance when the ship's people were on 
 shore. Their ornaments were ear-rings made of tortoise- 
 shell, and bracelets. They had in their noses a piece of white 
 stone, about an inch and a half long, formed like a bow. As 
 signs of friendship, they present a green branch, and sprinkle 
 water with the hand over the head. 
 
 Their weapons are clubs, spears, and bows and arrows. 
 The former are made of hard or iron-wood. Their bows are 
 about 4 feet long, made of a stick split down the middle, and 
 are not circular, but bent more at one end than the other. 
 The arrows, which are a sort of reed, are sometimes armed 
 with a long sharp point, made of hard w^ood, and sometimes 
 with a very hard point made of bone ; and these points are 
 all covered with a substance which they took for poison. 
 Indeed, the people themselves confirmed their suspicions by 
 making signs to them not to touch the point, and giving them. 
 
200 COOICS VOYAGES. 
 
 to understand that if they were pricked by it they would die. 
 The people of MaUicollo seemed to be a different nation 
 from any they had yet met with, and spoke a different lan- 
 guage. The harbour, which is situated on the N.E. side 
 of MaUicollo, the captain named Port Sandwich; it is so 
 sheltered that no winds can disturb a ship at anchor there, 
 and a vessel can be brought so near the shore as to cover the 
 people who may be at work upon it. 
 
 Soon after they got to sea they stood over for Ambrym. 
 On the 24th they reached an island near Apee, about four 
 leagues in circuit ; it is remarkable for its three high-peaked 
 hills, which gained it that name. They now steered to the 
 east, and having weathered Three-hills, stood for a group of 
 small isles off the S.E. point of Apee. These were called 
 Shepherd's Isles, in honour of Dr. Shepherd, Plumian pro- 
 fessor of astronomy at Cambridge. 
 
 It should have been remarked that the night before they came 
 out of Port Sandwich, two reddish fish, about the size of large 
 bream, and not unlike them, were caught with hook and line. 
 On these fish most of the officers and petty officers dined the 
 next day. The night following, every one who had eaten of 
 them were seized with violent pains in the head and bones, 
 attended with a scorching heat all over the skin and numb- 
 ness in the joints. There remained no doubt that this was 
 occasioned by the fish being of a poisonous nature, and 
 having communicated its bad effects to all who partook of 
 them, even to the hogs and dogs. One of the former died 
 about sixteen hours after, and soon one of the latter shared 
 the same fate; and it was a week or ten days before all the 
 gentlemen recovered. These must have been the same sort 
 of fish mentioned by Ouiros under the name of pargos, which 
 poisoned the crews of his ships so that it was some time 
 before they recovered. And they would doubtless have 
 suffered equally had more fish been eaten. 
 
 Continuing their course to the south, they drew near the 
 southern lands, which they found to consist of one large 
 island, whose southern and western extremities extended 
 beyond their sight, and three or four smaller ones lying oft its 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 201 
 
 north side. The two northernmost are much the largest, and 
 are a good height, and he in the direction of E. by S. and W. 
 by N. from each other, distant two leagues. They named 
 the one Montagu and the other Hinchinbrook, and the large 
 island Sandwich, in honour of the Earl of Sandwich. 
 
 As they passed Hinchinbrook Isle, several people came to 
 the sea-side, and by signs seemed to invite them ashore. 
 Some were also seen, on Sandwich Island, which exhibited a 
 most delightful prospect, being diversified with woods and 
 lawns. 
 
 On the 3rd of August they found themselves abreast of a 
 lofty promontory ; and early next morning the captain went 
 with two boats to examine the coast and look for a proper 
 landing-place, as well as wood and water. At this time the 
 natives began to assemble on the shore, and by signs invited 
 them to land. The captain went first to a small beach, where 
 he found no good landing. Some of the natives who were 
 there offered to haul the boats over the breakers to the sandy 
 beach, which was thought a friendly offer, but they had 
 reason afterwards to alter their opinion. They put into the 
 shore in two or three places, but not liking the situation, did 
 not land. By this time the natives conceived what they 
 wanted, as they directed the boat round a rocky point, where, 
 on a fine sandy beach, the captain stepped out of the boat 
 without wetting his feet, in the face of a vast multitude, 
 having only a green branch in his hand. They received him 
 with great courtesy and politeness, and would retire back 
 from the boat on his making the least motion with his hand. 
 A man whom he took to be a chief, seeing this, made them 
 form a semicircle round the boat's bow, and beat such as 
 attempted to break through this order. This man he loaded 
 with presents, giving some likewise to others, and asked by 
 signs for fresh water, in hopes of seeing where they got it. 
 The chief immediately sent a man for some, who ran to a 
 house, and presently returned with a little in a bamboo ; so 
 that he gained but little information by this. He next asked, 
 by the same means, for something to eat, and they as readily 
 brought him a yam and some cocoa-nuts. In short, he was 
 
2D2 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 charmed witn their behaviour, and the only thing that could 
 excite the least suspicion was, that most of them were armed 
 with clubs, spears, darts, bows, and arrows. For this reason 
 the captain kept his eye continually upon the chief, and 
 watched his looks as well as his actions. He made many 
 signs to have the boat upon the shore, and at last slipped into 
 the crowd, where he observed him speak to several people, 
 and then return repeating signs to haul the boat up, and 
 hesitating a good deal before he would receive some spike- 
 nails that were then offered him. This made the captain 
 suspect something was intended, and immediately he stepped 
 into the boat, telling them by signs that he should soon 
 return. But they were not willing to part so soon, and now 
 attempted by force what they could not obtain by gentler 
 means. 
 
 As the sailors were shoving off the boat, they laid hold of the 
 gang-board, and unhooked it off the boat's stern ; but as they 
 did not take it away, it was thought that this had been done 
 by accident, and he ordered the boat in again to take it up. 
 Then the natives hooked it over the boat's stern, and at- 
 tempted to haul her ashore ; others at the same time 
 snatched the oars out of the people's hands. On pointing a 
 musket at them, they, in some measure, desisted, but re- 
 turned in an instant, seemingly determined to effect their 
 purpose. 
 
 At the head of this party was their chief. Signs and 
 threats having no effect, then safety became the only con- 
 sideration. . The captain was unwilling to fire on the multi- 
 tude, and resolved to make the chief alone fall a victim to 
 his own treachery; but his musket at this critical moment 
 missed fire. Whatever idea they might have formed of their 
 arms, the natives must now have looked upon them as childish 
 weapons, and began to let them see how much better theirs 
 were by throwing stones and darts and by shooting arrows. 
 This made it absolutely necessary to give orders to fire. 
 The first discharge threw them into confusion, but a second 
 was hardly sufficient to drive them off the beach. Four lay 
 to all appearance dead on the shore, but two of them after- 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE, 203 
 
 wards crawled into the bushes. Happy it was for these 
 people that not half the muskets would go off, otherwise 
 many more must have fallen. One sailor was wounded in 
 the cheek with a dart, the point of which was as thick as a 
 little finger; and yet it entered above two inches, which 
 shows that it must have been hurled with great force. An 
 arrow struck Mr. Gilbert's naked breast ; but coming from 
 some distance, it hardly penetrated the skin. These arrows 
 were pointed with hard wood. 
 
 As soon as they got on board the captain ordered the 
 anchor to be weighed. While this was doing, several people 
 appeared on the low rocky point, displaying two oars they 
 had lost in the scuffle. This was supposed to be a sign of 
 submission, and of their wanting to give them the oars. He, 
 nevertheless, fired a 4-pound shot at them, to let them see 
 the effect of their great guns. The ball fell short, but 
 frightened them so much, that none were seen afterwards, 
 and they left the oars standing against the bushes. These 
 islanders seemed to be a different race from those of Malli- 
 collo, and spoke a different language. They are of the 
 middle size, are well made, and have tolerably regular 
 features. Their colour is very dark, and they paint their 
 faces, some with black and others with red pigment. They 
 saw a few women, who wore a kind of petticoat made of palm 
 leaves, or some plant like it. But the men, like those of 
 Mallicollo, were almost naked, having only the belt about 
 the waist, and the piece of cloth or leaf used as a wrapper. 
 
 In the night of the 5th of August they saw a volcano which 
 they observed to throw up vast quantities of fire and smoke, 
 with a rumbling noise heard at a great distance. They made 
 sail for the island whence it appeared, and soon discovered 
 a small inlet, which had the appearance of a good harbour. 
 The wind falling, they dropped anchor in four fathoms of 
 water. After this the boats were sent to sound. Many of 
 the natives now got together in parties on several parts of 
 the shore, all armed ; some swam off to them, others came 
 in canoes. At first they were shy and kept at a distance, but 
 gradually grew bolder, and at last came under their stern 
 
2 34 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 and made some exchanges. The people in one of the firs 
 canoes, after coming as near as they durst, threw towards 
 them some cocoa-nuts. The captain went into a boat and 
 picked them up, giving them in return some cloth and other 
 articles. This induced others to come under the stern, and 
 alongside, where their behaviour was insolent and daring. 
 They wanted to carry off everything within their reach, and 
 got hold of the fly of the ensign, and would have torn it from 
 the staff. A few muskets fired in the air had no effect ; but 
 a 4-pounder frightened them so much that they quitted their 
 canoes that instant and took to the water. However, as 
 soon as they found themselves unhurt, they got again into 
 their canoes, gave some halloos, flourished their weapons, 
 and were only dispersed by the discharge of some musquetoon 
 balls. 
 
 Towards the evening Captain Cook landed at the head of 
 the harbour, with a strong party of men, without any opposi- 
 tion being made by a great number of natives who were 
 assembled in two parties, the one on the right, the other on 
 the left, all armed. After distributing presents of cloth, 
 medals, and other articles, he ordered two casks to be filled 
 with water out of a pond about twenty paces behind the land- 
 ing-place, giving the natives to understand that this was one 
 of the articles they wanted. Besides water, they got from 
 them a few cocoa-nuts, which seemed to be in plenty on the 
 trees ; but they could not be prevailed upon to part with any 
 of their weapons. While they were bringing the ship near 
 the shore to wood and water, they observed the natives 
 assembling from all parts, and forming themselves into two 
 parties, as they did the preceding evening, one on each 
 side the landing-place, to the amount of some thousands, 
 armed as before. A canoe now and then came off, bringing 
 a few cocoa-nuts and plantains. The captain made an old 
 man understand by signs that they were to lay aside their 
 weapons, and throwing those that were in the canoe over- 
 board, made him a present of a large piece of cloth. There 
 was no doubt that he understood him, and made his request 
 known to his countrymen ; for as soon as he landed, they 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 205 
 
 observed him go first to the one party and then to the other ; 
 nor was he ever after seen with anything hke a weapon in his 
 hand. After this, three fellows came in a canoe under the 
 stern, one of them brandishing a club, with which he struck 
 the ship's side, and committed other acts of defiance, but at 
 last offered to exchange it for a string of beads and some 
 other trifles. These were sent down to him by a line ; but 
 the moment they were in his possession, he and his com- 
 panion paddled off in haste, without giving the club in return. 
 This is what the captain expected, and, indeed, what he was 
 not sorry for, as he wanted an opportunity to show the mul- 
 titude on shore the effect of their firearms without mate- 
 rially hurting any of them. Having a fowling-piece loaded 
 with small-shot, he gave the fellow the contents ; and when 
 they were above musket-shot off, he ordered some of the 
 musquetoons to be fired, which alarmed them much. This 
 transaction, however, had little or no impression on the 
 people there ; on the contrary, they began to halloo and to 
 make sport of it. 
 
 After mooring the ship, and placing the artillery in such a 
 manner as to command the whole harbour. Captain Cook 
 embarked with the marines and a party of seamen, in three 
 boats, and rowed in for the shore. It has been already men- 
 tioned that the two divisions of the natives were drawn up on 
 each side of the landing-place. They had left a space between 
 them of about twenty yards, in which were laid to the most 
 advantage a few small bunches of plantains, a yam, and two 
 or three roots. The old man before mentioned, and two 
 more, invited them by signs to land ; but to prevent treachery 
 the captain ordered a musket to be fired over the party on 
 the right, which was by far the strongest body. Though the 
 alarm it gave them was momentary, they quickly recovered 
 themselves, and began to display their weapons. The ship 
 now fired a few great guns, which presently dispersed them ; 
 when the party landed and marked out the limits, on the 
 right and left, by a line. The natives came gradually to 
 them, seemingly in a friendly manner, some even without 
 their weapons, though by far the greater part retained them, 
 
2o6 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 and when they made signs to lay them down, gave the 
 EngHsh to understand that they must lay down theirs first. 
 Thus all parties stood armed ; many seemed afraid to touch 
 what belonged to the visitors, and they seemed to have no 
 notion of exchanging one thing for another. The captain 
 took the old man to the woods, and made him understand 
 that he wanted to cut down some trees to take on board the 
 ship. Paowang, as he was called, very readily gave his con- 
 sent to cut wood, nor was there anyone who made the least 
 objection. Having landed again, they loaded the launch 
 with water, and after making three hauls with the seine, 
 caught upwards of three hundred pounds of mullet and other 
 fish. It was some time before any of the natives appeared, 
 and not above twenty or thirty at last, amongst whom was 
 their trusty friend, Paowang, who made them a present of 
 a small pig, which was the only one they got at this island. 
 
 During the night the volcano, which was about four miles 
 to the west, vomited up vast quantities of fire and smoke, as 
 it had done the night before, and the flames were seen above 
 the intervening hill. At every eruption it made a long rum- 
 bling noise like that of thunder, or the blowing up of large 
 mines. A heavy shower of rain which fell at this time seemed 
 to increase it, and the wind blowing from the same quarter, 
 the air was loaded with its ashes ; these were of the nature 
 of fine sand, or stone ground or burnt to powder, and were 
 exceedingly troublesome to the eyes. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 7th the natives began again to 
 assemble near the watering-place, armed as usual, but not in 
 such numbers as on the first occasion. On landing they 
 found many of the islanders much inclined to be friends, 
 especially the old people; on the other hand, most of the 
 younger were daring and insolent, and obliged them to stand 
 to their arms. The captain stayed till he saw no disturbance 
 was likely to happen, and then returned to the ship, leaving 
 the party under the command of Lieutenants Gierke and 
 Edgecumbe. On the 9th Mr. Foster learnt from the people 
 the proper name of the island, which they call Tanna. They 
 gave them to understand, in a manner which appeared to 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE, 20; 
 
 admit of no doubt, that they were cannibals. They began 
 the subject of eating human flesh of their own accord, by 
 asking if the Enghsh did. One of the men employed in 
 taking in ballast scalded his fingers in removing a stone out 
 of some water ; this circumstance produced the discovery of 
 several hot springs at the foot of the cliff, and rather below 
 high-water mark. During the nights of the loth and nth 
 the volcano was exceedingly active, and made a terrible 
 noise, throwing up prodigious columns of fire and smoke at 
 each explosion, which happened every three or four minutes, 
 and at one time great stones were seen high in the air. Mr. 
 Foster and his party went up the hill on the west side of the 
 harbour, where he found three places whence smoke of a 
 sulphureous smell issued through cracks or fissures in the 
 earth. The ground about these was exceedingly hot and 
 parched or burnt; at every explosion of the volcano the 
 quantity of smoke or steam in these fissures was greatly 
 increased, and forced out so as to rise in small columns, which 
 were seen from the ship. In the afternoon, Mr. Foster 
 having begun his botanical researches on the other side of 
 the harbour, fell in with Paowang's house, where he saw most 
 of the articles the captain had given him hanging on the 
 adjoining trees and bushes, as if they were not worthy of 
 being under his roof 
 
 On the morning of the 14th a party set out for the country, 
 to try if they could not get a nearer and better view of the 
 volcano. The place affected by the heat was not above 
 eight or ten yards square ; and near it were some fig trees, 
 which spread their branches over a part of the space. It was 
 thought that this extraordinary heat was caused by the steam 
 of boiling water, strongly impregnated with sulphur. They 
 proceeded up the hill through a country so covered with 
 trees, shrubs, and plants, that the bread-fruit and cocoa-nut 
 trees, which seem to have been planted here by nature, were 
 almost choked up. Here and there they met with a house, 
 some few people, and plantations. These latter they found 
 in different states ; some of long standing, and others lately 
 cleared, and some only clearing. Happening to turn out of 
 
2o8 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 the common path, they came into a plantation where they 
 found a man at work, who undertook to be their guide 
 They followed him, but had not gone far before they came ta 
 the junction of two roads, in one of which stood anothej 
 man with a sling and a stone, which he thought proper to 
 lay down when a musket was pointed at him. The attitude 
 in which they found him, the ferocity of his looks, and his 
 subsequent behaviour, convinced them that he meant to de- 
 fend the path he stood in. He, in some measure, gained his 
 point, for the guide took the other road, and they followed, 
 but not without suspecting he was leading them out of the 
 direct way. The other man went with them, likewise count- 
 ing them several times over, and hallooing, as it appeared^ 
 for assistance ; for they were presently joined by two or 
 three more, among whom was a young woman with a club in 
 her hand. By these people they were conducted to the brow 
 of a hill, and shown a road leading down to the harbour, 
 which they wanted them to take. Not choosing to comply, 
 they returned to that they had left, which they pursued alone, 
 their guide refusing to go with them. After ascending 
 another ridge, as thickly covered with wood as those they had 
 come over, they saw yet other hills between them and the 
 volcano, which seemed as far off as at their first setting out. 
 This discouraged them from proceeding farther, especially as 
 they could get no one to be their guide. They therefore 
 came to a resolution to return, and had but just put this in 
 execution, when they were met by between twenty and thirty 
 people, whom the fellow before-mentioned had collected 
 together, with a design, no doubt, to oppose their advancing 
 into the country. 
 
 In the evening, Captain Cook took a walk with some of the 
 gentlemen into the country on the other side of the harbour, 
 where they had very different treatment from what they had 
 met with in the morning. The people they now visited, 
 among whom was their friend Paowang, being better 
 acquainted with them, showed a readiness to oblige them 
 in everything in their power. They came to a village con- 
 sisting of about twenty houses, the most of which might be 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 209 
 
 compared to the roof of a thatched house in England, taken 
 off the walls, and placed on the ground. Some were open at 
 both ends, others partly closed with reeds ; and all were 
 covered with palm thatch. A few of them were thirty or 
 forty feet long and fourteen or sixteen broad. 
 
 On the 1 5th, having finished taking in water, a few hands 
 only were on shore making brooms, the rest being employed 
 on board setting up the rigging and putting the ship in a con- 
 dition for sea. Mr. Foster, in his botanical excursions, shot 
 a pigeon, in the craw of which was a wild nutmeg. He took 
 some pains to find the tree, but his endeavours were with- 
 out success. 
 
 On the 17th of July Captain Cook went on shore to pay a 
 visit to an old chief who was said to be king of the island. 
 Paowang took little or no notice of this man, and upon the 
 captain making him a present, he immediately went away, as 
 if he had got all he came for. His name was Geogy, and 
 they gave him the title of Areeke. He was very old, but had 
 a merry open countenance. He wore round his waist a broad 
 red and white chequered belt ; but this was hardly a mark of 
 distinction. 
 
 Next day the captain went ashore again, and found in the 
 crowd old Geogy and a son of his, who soon made him 
 understand that they wanted to dine with him. Accordingly 
 he brought them and two more on board, and conducted 
 them all over the ship, which they viewed with great 
 surprise and attention. They happened to have for their 
 entertainment a kind of a pie or pudding made of plantains, 
 and some sort of greens which they had obtained from one of 
 the natives. On this, and on yams, they made a hearty 
 dinner. In the afternoon, each of them having received a 
 present of a hatchet and spike-nail and some medals, they 
 were conducted on shore. 
 
 On the 19th the captain, finding a good number of the 
 natives collected about the landing-place as usual, dis- 
 tributed among them all the articles he had with him, and 
 then went on board for more. In less than an hour he re- 
 turned, just as the people were getting some large logs into 
 
2IO COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 the boat. At the same time four or five of the natives stepped 
 forward to see what they were about, and as they did not 
 allow them to come within certain limits, unless to pass along 
 the beach, the sentry ordered them back, which they readily 
 complied with. At this time Captain Cook, having his eyes 
 fixed on them, observed the sentry present his piece, and was 
 just going to reprove him for it, when, to his unmeasured 
 astonishment, the sentry fired. 
 
 At this outrage most of the people fled. As they ran off, 
 Captain Cook observed one man fall, when he was imme- 
 diately lifted up by two others, who took him into the water, 
 washed his wound, and then led him off. Soon after some 
 men came and described to the captain the nature of the 
 wound, upon which he sent for the surgeon. As soon as he 
 arrived the captain went with him to the man, whom they 
 found expiring. The ball had struck his left arm, which was 
 much shattered, and then entered his body by the short ribs, 
 one of which was broken. 
 
 The sentry who fired pretended that a man had laid an 
 arrow across his bow and was going to shoot at him ; but this 
 was no more than they had always done, and with no other 
 view than to show they were armed also ; at least there was 
 reason to think so, as they never went farther. This affair 
 threw the natives into the utmost consternation, and the few 
 that were prevailed on to stay, ran to the plantations and 
 brought cocoa-nuts and other fruits, which they laid down 
 at their feet as a peace-offering. When the captain went on 
 board to dinner, they all retired, and only a few appeared in 
 the afternoon, among whom was Paowang. He promised to 
 bring fruit the next morning, but their early departure put it 
 out of his power. 
 
 These people had not the least knowledge of iron, and 
 cloth would be of no use to them, as they went naked. Hogs, 
 which were plentiful, and some few fowls, are the only domestic 
 animals they have. Land birds are not more numerous than 
 at Otaheite and the other islands ; but they met with some 
 small birds of very beautifid plumage, which they had never 
 seen before. Captain Cook neither saw any sort of fishing- 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 211 
 
 tackle amongst them, nor any one out fishing, except on the 
 shoals, or along the shores of the harbour, where they would 
 watch to strike with a dart such fish as came within their 
 reach ; and in this they were expert. They seemed much to 
 admire the European manner of catching fish with a seine. 
 These people are of the middle size, rather slender than 
 otherwise ; and most of them have good features and agree- 
 able countenances. They never assisted the Europeans in any 
 work they were engaged in, and made the females perform 
 the most laborious duties. A woman has been seen carrying 
 a large bundle under her arm, and a fellow strutting before 
 her, with nothing but a club, or spear, or some such thing. 
 Both sexes are of a very dark colour, but not black ; nor 
 have they the least characteristic of the negro about them. 
 They use pigments of black, red, and brown, which they lay 
 on with a liberal hand, not only on the face, but on the neck, 
 shoulders, and breast. The men wear nothing but a belt and 
 a wrapping leaf The women have a kind of petticoat, made of 
 the filaments of the plantain tree, flags, or some such thing, 
 which reaches below the knee. Both sexes wear ornaments, 
 such as bracelets, ear-rings, necklaces, and amulets. 
 
 On the 20th of August the Resolution put to sea, standing to 
 the eastward. Nothing material occurred till the 4th of Sep- 
 tember, when looking S.E., the coast seemed to terminate in a 
 high promontory, which the captain named Cape Colnet after 
 one of his midshipmen, who first discovered this land. On the 
 following day some gaps or openings were seen along the 
 coast, and after running two leagues down the outside of the 
 reef, they came to an opening that had the appearance of a 
 good channel. With the view of landing to observe the eclipse 
 of the sun, which was about to happen, they hoisted out two 
 armed boats, and sent them to sound the channel ; ten or 
 twelve large sailing canoes, which they had observed coming 
 off from the shore all the morning, from different parts, being 
 then near them. The boats having made a signal for a 
 channel they stood in. They had hardly got to an anchor be- 
 fore they were surrounded by a great number of the natives, 
 in sixteen or eighteen canoes, most of whom were without 
 
212 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 weapons. At first they were shy of coming near the ship ; 
 but in a short time the people in one boat were prevailed 
 upon to get close enough to receive some presents. They 
 were lowered down to them by a rope, to which in return 
 they tied two fish, which smelt intolerably. These mutual 
 exchanges bringing on a kind of confidence, two ventured 
 on board the ship ; and presently after she was filled with 
 them, and they had the company of several at dinner in the 
 cabin. Like all the natives they had lately seen, the men 
 were almost naked. They were curious in examining every 
 part of the ship, which they viewed with uncommon attention. 
 They had not the least knowledge of goats, hogs, dogs, or 
 cats, and had not even a name for one of them. They seemed 
 fond of large spike-nails and pieces of red cloth, or indeed any 
 other colour, but red was their favourite. 
 
 After dinner the captain went on shore with two armed 
 boats, accompanied by one of the natives, who had attached 
 himself to him. They landed on a sandy beach, before a 
 vast number of people, who had assembled with no other 
 intent than to see them, for many of them had not a stick 
 in their hands; the Englishmen were received with great 
 courtesy, and with many expressions of surprise. The captain 
 made presents to all those his new friend pointed out, who 
 were either old men or such as seemed to be of some note ; 
 but he took not the least notice of a few women who stood 
 behind the crowd, keeping back the captain's hand when he 
 was going to give them some beads and medals. Here they 
 found a chief, whose name was Teabooma, and they had only 
 been orufehore ten minutes when he called for silence. Being 
 instantly obeyed by every individual present, he made a 
 short speech ; and soon after another chief, having called for 
 silence, made a speech also. It was* pleasing to see with 
 what attention they were heard. Their speeches were com- 
 posed of short sentences, to each of which two or three old 
 men answered by nodding their heads and giving a grunt of 
 approval. It was impossible for our countrymen to know 
 the purport of these speeches, but they had reason to think 
 they were favourable to them. On inquiring for water, the 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 213 
 
 natives conducted them about two miles round the coast to a 
 httle stragghng village near some mangroves, where they 
 landed and were shown fresh water. The ground near this 
 village was finely cultivated, being laid out in plantations of 
 sugar-canes, plantains, yams, and other roots. They heard 
 the crowing of cocks but saw none. As they proceeded 
 up the creek, Mr. Foster having shot a duck flying over 
 their heads, which was the first use these people saw made 
 of firearms, the native whom Captain Cook distinguished by 
 the name of his friend, begged to have it, and when he landed 
 told his countrymen in what manner it was killed. The day 
 being far spent, they took leave of the people and got on 
 board a little after sunset. 
 
 Next morning they were visited by some hundreds of the 
 natives, so that before ten o'clock their decks, and all other 
 parts of the ship, were quite full. The captain's friend, who 
 was of the number, brought him a few roots, and some 
 of the others had with them their arms, such as clubs and 
 darts, which they exchanged for nails, pieces of cloth, and 
 other articles. Next day, Mr. Wales, accompanied by Lieu- 
 tenant Clerke, went to make preparations for observing the 
 eclipse of the sun, which was to happen in the afternoon. 
 
 On the 8th the captain received a message acquainting him 
 that Teabooma the chief was come with a present consisting 
 of a few yams and sugar-canes. In return he sent him, 
 among other articles, a couple of dogs, both young, but nearly 
 full grown. Early next morning Lieutenant Pickersgill and 
 Mr. Gilbert were sent with the launoh and cutter to explore 
 the coast to the west. 
 
 On the evening of the nth the boats returned ; the cutter 
 having nearly been lost by suddenly filling with water, which 
 obliged them to throw several things overboard before they 
 could free her and stop the leak. From a fishing-canoe 
 which they met coming in from the reefs, they got as much 
 fish as they could eat, and they were received by Teabi, the 
 chief of the isle of Bolabea, with great courtesy. In order 
 not to be too much crowded, they drew a line on the ground, 
 and gave the natives to understand that they were not to come 
 
214 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 within it. This restriction they observed, and one of them 
 soon afterwards turned it to his own advantage, for, happen- 
 ing to have a few cocoa-nuts which one of the sailors wanted 
 to buy, he walked off and was followed by the man who 
 wanted them. On seeing this he sat down on the sand, 
 made a line round him as he had seen them do, and signified 
 that the other was not to come within it, which was accord- 
 ingly observed. 
 
 On the afternoon of the 12th the captain went on shore, 
 and on a large tree, which stood close to the shore near the 
 watering-place, had an inscription cut, setting forth the 
 ship's name, date, and other particulars, as a testimony of 
 their having been the first discoverers of this island. This 
 being done, they took leave of the natives, and returned on 
 board, when all the boats were hoisted in, in order to be 
 ready to put to sea in the morning. 
 
 The people of the island are strong, robust, active, and 
 \vell made ; they are also courteous and friendly, and not in 
 the least addicted to pilfering, which is more than can be 
 said of any other people in this sea. They are nearly of the 
 same colour as the natives of Tanna, but have better fea- 
 tures, more agreeable countenances, and are a much stouter 
 race : a few being seen who measured six feet four inches. 
 Their hair and beards are in general black. The former is 
 very much frizzled, so that at first sight it appears like that 
 of a negro. Their only covering is a wrapper, made generally 
 of the bark of a tree, but sometimes of leaves. The small 
 pieces of cloth and paper which they got, were generally 
 applied to this use. Some had a kind of concave, cylindrical, 
 stiff black cap, which appeared to be a great ornament 
 among them, and were only worn by men of note or warriors. 
 Their houses, or, at least, most of them, are circular, and 
 something like a beehive. The entrance is by a small door, 
 or long square hole, just big enough to admit a man bent 
 double. In most of them they found two fireplaces, and as 
 there was no vent for the smoke but the door, the whole 
 house was both smoky and hot,* rendering it unendurable. 
 They have no great variety of household utensils, earthen 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE, 215 
 
 jars being the only article worth notice. Each family has at 
 least one of them, in which they bake their roots and, per- 
 haps, their fish. They subsist chiefly on roots and fish, and 
 the bark of a tree, which they roast, and are almost con- 
 tinually chewing. Water is their only liquor. Nature has 
 been less bountiful to this than to any other tropical island 
 known in this sea, the greater part of its surface consisting 
 of barren, rocky mountains ; nevertheless, there are several 
 plants common to the eastern and northern islands, and 
 every day brought to light something new in botany or some 
 other branches of natural history. 
 
 All their endeavours to get the name of the whole island 
 proved ineffectual, for, upon making inquiry, the people gave 
 them the name of some district or place ; hence Captain 
 Cook imagines that the country is divided into several dis- 
 tricts, each governed by a chief; Balade was the name of the 
 district they were at, and Teabooma the chief Tea seems to 
 be a title prefixed to the names of all, or most of their chiefs 
 and great men. The captain was, by one of their great men, 
 called Tea Cook. Their fishing implements are turtle nets, 
 made of the filaments of the plantain tree twisted, and small 
 hand nets with very minute meshes, made of fine twine. 
 Everything being in readiness to put to sea, at sunrise on the 
 13th of September they weighed anchor. 
 
 Nothing remarkable occurred till the evening of the 28th, 
 when two low islets were seen bearing W. by S., and as they 
 were connected by breakers, it became necessary to haul off, 
 in order to get clear of them. Soon after more breakers 
 appeared, extending from the low isles to a great distance. 
 They spent the night in making short boards, under the ter- 
 rible apprehension, every moment, of falling on some of the 
 dangers which surrounded them. Daylight showed that their 
 fears were not ill-founded, and that they had been in the 
 most imminent danger, having had breakers continually 
 under their lee, and at a very little distance from them. 
 They owed their safety to the interposition of Providence, a 
 good look-out, and the brisk manner in which the ship was 
 managed, an officer " conning " her from the mast-head. 
 
2i6 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 With great difficulty they arrived within a mile of land, 
 and having anchored in twenty-nine fathoms of water, hoisted 
 out a boat, in which the captain went ashore, accompanied 
 by the botanists. Here they found several tall trees, which 
 had been observed before at a considerable distance ; they 
 appeared to be a kind of spruce pine, very suitable for spars, 
 of which they were in want. After making this discovery, they 
 hastened on board, in order to give more time after dinner, 
 when they landed again in the boats, to cut down such trees 
 as were wanting. This little isle upon which they landed 
 was a mere sand-bank, not exceeding three-fourths of a mile 
 in circuit, and on it, besides these pines, grew the Etos tree 
 of Otaheite ; also a variety of trees, shrubs, and plants. 
 These gave sufficient employment to the botanists all the 
 time they stayed upon it, and occasioned the captain's calling 
 it Botany Isle. Several fireplaces with branches and leaves, 
 very little decayed, showed that people had lately been on 
 the isle. The hull of a canoe also lay wrecked in the sand. 
 Having got ten or twelve small spars to make studding-sail 
 booms, boats, masts, &c., and night approaching, they re- 
 turned on board. 
 
 The purpose for which they anchored under this isle being 
 answered, it was necessary to consider what was next to be 
 done. They had, from the topmast-head, taken a view of 
 the sea around, and observed the whole, to the west, to be 
 strewed with small islets, sand-banks, and breakers, to the 
 utmost extent of their horizon. This induced the captain to 
 try to get without the shoals. 
 
 Next morning, at daybreak, the 30th of September, they got 
 under sail, and met with no occurrences worthy of remark for 
 several days. In the evening of the 8th of October, Mr. 
 Cooper having struck a porpoise with a harpoon, it was 
 necessary to bring to and lower the boats before they could 
 kill it and get it on board. It was six feet long, and had 
 eighty-eight teeth in each jaw. The flesh was first soaked in 
 warm water, and then roasted, boiled, and fried. Indeed, 
 little preparation was necessary to make anything fresh and 
 palatable to people who had been living so long on salt meat. 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 217 
 
 On the loth, at daybreak, they discovered land, bearing 
 S.W., which on a nearer approach they found to be an island 
 of good elevation, and five leagues in circuit. It was named 
 Norfolk Isle, in honour of the noble family of Howard. After 
 dinner a party embarked in two boats and landed without 
 difficulty behind some large rocks which lined part of the 
 coast. They found it uninhabited, and were, undoubtedly, 
 the first that ever set foot on it. They observed several trees 
 and plants common to New Zealand, and in particular the 
 flax plant, which is rather more luxuriant here than in any 
 part of that country ; but the chief produce is a species of 
 spruce, resembling the Quebec pine, which grows in abun- 
 dance, and to a large size, being as thick, breast high, as two 
 men could embrace, and exceedingly straight and tall. For 
 about 200 yards from the shore the ground is covered so 
 thick with shrubs and plants as to be almost impenetrable. 
 The woods were perfectly clear and free from underwood, 
 and the soil seemed rich and deep. They found the same 
 kind of pigeons, parrots, and parroquets as in New Zealand, 
 also rails and some small birds. The sea-fowl breed undis- 
 turbed on the shores and in the cliffs of the rocks. On the 
 isle is fresh water, and cabbage palm, wood sorrel, sow thistle, 
 and samphire abound in some places on the shore; they 
 brought on board as much of each sort as the limited time at 
 their disposal would permit. 
 
 After leaving Norfolk Isle they steered for New Zealand, 
 intending to touch at Queen Charlotte's Sound to refresh the 
 crew, and place the ship in a condition to encounter the 
 southern latitudes. On the 17th, at daybreak, they saw 
 Mount Egmont, which was covered with perennial snow. 
 On the 1 8th they anchored before Ship Cove, and in the 
 afternoon Captain Cook went into the Cove with the seine to 
 try and catch some fish. The first thing he did after landing 
 was to look for the bottle he had left when last here, in which 
 was the memorandum. It was taken away, but by whom it 
 did not appear. The hauls with the seine producing only 
 four small fish, they in some measure made up for this 
 deficiency by shooting several birds. There being little wind 
 
2i8 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 next morning they weighed, and warped the ship into the 
 cove, and there moored. Here the forge was erected, and 
 the ship and rigging repaired. The captain gave orders that 
 vegetables should be boiled every morning, with oatmeal and 
 portable broth, for breakfast, and with peas and broth every 
 day for dinner, for the whole crew, over and above their 
 usual allowance of salt meat. In the afternoon, as Mr. Wales 
 was setting up his observatory, he discovered that several 
 trees, which were standing when they last sailed from that 
 place, had been cut down with saws and axes. It was, 
 therefore, now no longer to be doubted that the Adventure 
 had been in this cove after they left it. 
 
 Nothing remarkable happened till the 24th, when, in the 
 morning, two canoes were seen coming down the Sound ; 
 but as soon as its occupants perceived the ship they retired. 
 After breakfast they went in a boat to look for them, and as 
 they proceeded along the shore shot several birds. The 
 report of the muskets gave notice of their approach, and the 
 natives discovered themselves in Shag Cove by hallooing to 
 them. The moment they landed the natives knew them, 
 and the rest hurried out of the woods and embraced them 
 over and over again, leaping and skipping about like mad- 
 men ; but it was observed that they would not suffer some 
 women, whom they saw at a distance, to come near them. 
 After they had made them presents of hatchets, knives, and 
 what else they had with them, the natives gave in return a 
 large quantity of fish, which they had just caught. Next 
 morning early, the inhabitants paid them a visit on board, 
 and brought with them a quantity of fine fish, which they 
 exchanged for Otaheitean cloth. On the 28th a party went 
 shooting to West Bay, and came to the place where they left 
 the hogs and fowls, but saw no vestiges of them, nor of any 
 body having been there since. In the evening they brought 
 on board about a dozen and a half of wild fowl, and the 
 sportsmen, who had been out in the woods near the ship, 
 were most successful among the small birds. 
 
 On the 6th of November, their old friends having taken up 
 their abode near them, one named Pedro (a man of some 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 219 
 
 note) made the captain a present of a staff of honour, such 
 as the chiefs generally carry. In return, he dressed him in a 
 suit of old clothes, of which )ie was not a little proud. 
 Having got this person and another into a communicative 
 mood, he began to inquire of them if the Adventure had 
 been there during his absence ; and they gave him to under- 
 stand, in a manner which admitted of no doubt, that soon 
 after they were gone, she arrived, and, after a stay of between 
 ten and twenty days, had left ten months before. On the 
 8th they put the pigs on shore, in the cove next to Cannibal 
 Cove, for the purpose of stocking the country. On the 9th, the 
 natives having brought a very seasonable supply of fish, the 
 captain presented Pedro with an empty oil-jar, which made 
 him as happy as a prince. In the afternoon a party went on 
 shore into one of the coves, where were two families of the 
 natives variously employed ; some sleeping, some making 
 mats, some roasting fish and fire-roots, and one girl was busy 
 heating stones. As soon as the stones were hot, she took 
 them out of the fire, and gave them to an old woman sitting 
 in a hut, who placed them in a heap, laid over them a 
 handful of green celery, and over that a coarse mat, and then 
 squatted herself down on her heels on the top of all ; thus 
 making a kind of Dutch warming-pan, on which she sat as 
 close as a hare on her seat. The captain thought it was to 
 cure some disorder she might have on her, which the steam 
 arising from the green celery might be a specific for. 
 
 On the loth of November they took their farewell of New 
 Zealand, and steered for Cape Campbell. Captain Cook's 
 intention now was to cross this vast ocean, so as to pass over 
 those parts which were left unexplored in the preceding sum- 
 mer. On Saturday, the 17th of December, they made the land, 
 about six leagues distant. On this discovery, they wore and 
 brought to with the ship's head to the south ; and having 
 sounded, found seventy-five fathoms of water, the bottom 
 stone and shells. The land now before them could be no 
 other than the west coast of Terra del Fuego, and near the 
 west entrance of the straits of Magellan. This was the first 
 run they had made directly across the ocean, in a high 
 
220 COOICS VOYAGES. 
 
 southern latitude. The captain says he never made a pas- 
 sage anywhere of such length where so few interesting cir- 
 cumstances occurred ; for, the variation of the compass 
 excepted, he met with nothing else worth notice. Here they 
 took leave of the South Pacific Ocean. 
 
 On the 1 8th of December, as they continued sailing along, 
 with the coast about two leagues distant, they passed a pro- 
 jecting point which was called Cape Gloucester. On the 
 2oth, at noon, they observed York Minster, then five leagues 
 distant. At ten o'clock a breeze springing up at E. by S., 
 they took this opportunity to stand in for the land and 
 to recruit their stock of wood and water, and take a closer 
 view of the country. Having found plenty of wood and 
 water, they set about doing what was necessary to the ship^ 
 the outside of which had become very foul. During the night 
 a melancholy accident befell one of the marines, who was 
 supposed to have fallen overboard out o£ the head, where he 
 had been last seen. 
 
 On the 23rd Mr. Pickersgill w^as sent in the cutter to 
 explore the east side of the sound, with an intent to survey 
 the island under which they were at anchor, which the 
 captain called Shag Island. About seven in the evening he 
 returned, and reported that the land opposite to their station 
 was an island, and that between it and the east head lay a 
 cove in which were many geese. This information induced 
 them to make up two shooting-parties next day, Mr. Pickers- 
 gill and his associates going in the cutter, and the captain and 
 the botanists in the pinnace. Mr. Pickersgill went in one 
 direction and the captain in another, and they had sport 
 enough among the geese, whence this was called Goose 
 Island. There being a high surf, they found great difficulty 
 in landing, and very bad climbing over the rocks when they 
 were landed, so that hundreds of geese escaped, some into 
 the sea, and others up into the land. They, however, suc- 
 ceeded in bagging sixty-two, with which they returned on 
 board, all heartily tired. Mr. Pickersgill and his associates 
 had got on board some time before with fourteen geese, 
 which were distributed among the whole crew, and were most 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE, 221 
 
 acceptable, on account of the approaching festival, as without 
 the geese their Christmas cheer must have been salt beef 
 and pork. 
 
 The next morning, the 25th, some of the natives paid them 
 a visit. They are a little, ugly, half-starved, beardless race, 
 and were almost naked, their only clothing being a seal-skin. 
 They had with them bows and arrows, and darts, or rather 
 harpoons, made of bone, and fitted to a staff. Their persons 
 and everything they wore smelt most intolerably of train oil. 
 The women and children remained in their canoes, which 
 were made of bark, and each contained a fire, over which the 
 poor creatures huddled together. They likewise carry in their 
 canoes large seal hides, to shelter them when at sea, and to 
 serve as coverings to their huts on shore, and occasionally 
 to be used as sails. The natives all retired before dinner — 
 indeed, no one invited them to stay, as their dirty persons 
 were enough to spoil the appetite of any European, which 
 would have been a real disappointment to the ship's company 
 who had not experienced such fare for some time. Roast and 
 boiled geese, and goose pie, was a treat little known to them ; 
 and they had yet some Madeira wine left, which was the only 
 article of consumption that was improved by keeping, so that 
 their friends in England did not, perhaps, celebrate Christmas 
 more cheerfully than they did. In commemoration of the 
 day this place was named Christmas Sound. Next day the 
 natives -paid another visit, and it being distressing to see 
 them stand trembling and naked on the deck, the captain 
 humanely gave them some baize and old canvas to cover 
 themselves. The wild fowl consist of geese, ducks, shags, 
 and a kind of duck, called by the sailors racehorses, on 
 account of the great swiftness with which they run on the 
 water, for they cannot fly, their wings being too short to 
 support the body in the air. The geese, too, are much smaller 
 than the English tame geese, but eat as well. They have 
 short black bills and yellow feet ; the gander is all white, the 
 female spotted black and white, or grey, with a large spot on 
 each wing. Captain Cook was of opinion that of all the 
 nations he had seen these people seemed to be the most 
 
222 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 wretched. They are doomed to live in one of the most 
 inhospitable climates in the world, without having sagacity 
 enough to provide themselves with such conveniences as 
 may render life, in some measure, more comfortable. 
 
 On the 28th they weighed and stood out to sea, resuming 
 their course to the east, and the next day passed Cape Horn, 
 and entered the South Atlantic Ocean. From Cape Horn 
 they stood over for Success Bay, assisted by the currents, 
 which set to the north. Before this they had hoisted their 
 colours and fired two guns, and soon after saw smoke rise 
 out of the woods above the south point of the bay, supposed 
 to be from a native encampment. As soon as they got off 
 the bay. Lieutenant Pickersgill went to see if any traces 
 remained of the Adventure^ but he saw not the least signs of 
 any ship having been there lately. The captain had inscribed 
 the ship's name on a card, which he nailed to a tree at the 
 place where the Endeavour watered. In the morning, at 
 three o'clock, they bore up for the east end of Staten Land, 
 where they arrived in the afternoon of the following day. 
 After dinner they hoisted out three boats, and landed with a 
 large party of men ; some to kill seals, others to catch or kill 
 birds, fish, or whatever came in their way. To find the former 
 it mattered not where they landed, for the whole shore was 
 covered with them ; and by the noise they made, one would 
 have thought the island was stocked with cows and calves. 
 On landing they found they were a different animal from 
 seals, but in shape and motion exactly resembling them. 
 The sailors called them lions, on account of the great resem- 
 blance the male had to that beast. Here were also the same 
 kind of seals which they found in New Zealand, generally 
 known by the name of sea-bears ; at least, they gave them 
 that name. They were in general so tame, or rather stupid, 
 as to suffer the sailors to come near enough to knock them 
 down with sticks ; but the larger ones were shot, as it was 
 not thought safe to approach them. They also found on the 
 island penguins, shags, geese, and ducks, some birds of prey, 
 and a few small birds. In the evening they returned on 
 board with plenty of spoil 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 223 
 
 Next day, being the ist of January, 1775. finding that nothing 
 was wanting but a good harbour to make this a tolerable 
 place for ships, which chance or design might bring hitherto 
 recruit, Mr. Gilbert went over to Staten Land in the cutter, 
 to look for a good harbour. The captain also sent two other 
 boats, which returned laden with sea-lions and sea-bears. 
 The old lions and sea-bears were killed, chiefly for the sake 
 of their blubber or fat, to make oil of; for, except their 
 haslets, which were tolerable, the flesh was too rank to be 
 eaten with any degree of relish. But the young cubs were 
 very palatable ; and even the flesh of some of the old 
 lionesses was not indifferent. About ten o'clock, Mr. Gilbert 
 returned from Staten Land, where he found a good, port 
 situated three leagues to the westward of Cape St. John. It 
 is almost two miles in length, and in some places nearly a mile 
 broad. On this island were sea-lions and seals, and such a 
 quantity of gulls, as to darken the air when disturbed. In 
 honour of the day on which this port was discovered, Captain 
 Cook called it New Year's Harbour. 
 
 The sea-lions found here were not of the kind described 
 under the same name by Lord Anson ; but these would 
 more properly deserve that appellation, the long hair with 
 which the back of the head, the neck, and shoulders are 
 covered, giving them greatly the air and appearance of a lion. 
 The female is not half so big as the male, and is covered with 
 short hair, of an ash or light dun colour. They live, as it 
 were, in herds, on the rocks and near the sea-shore. The 
 sea-bears are not nearly so large as the lions, but rather 
 larger than a common seal. They have no mane, their hair 
 being all of an equal length, and liner than that of the lion, 
 and of an iron-grey colour. It was not at all dangerous to 
 go among them, for they either fled or lay still. The only 
 danger was, in going between them and the sea, for, if they 
 took fright at anything, they would come down in such 
 numbers, that, if you could not get out of their way, you 
 would be run over. The oceanic birds are gulls, tern, Port 
 Egmont hens, and a large brown bird of the size of an alba- 
 tross, which the sailors called Mother Carey's geese, and 
 
224 COOICS VOYAGES. 
 
 found them pretty good eating. The land birds were eagles, 
 or hawks, bald-headed vultures, or, what the sailors called 
 turkey buzzards, thrushes, and a few other small birds. It 
 excited Captain Cook's astonishment to see how amicably 
 the different animals which inhabit this place lived together. 
 The sea-lions occupy most of the coast ; the sea-bears take 
 up their abode in the isle ; the shags have post in the highest 
 cliffs ; the penguins fix their quarters where there is the most 
 easy communication with the sea ; and the other birds choose 
 more retired places. Captain Cook says he has seen these 
 animals mix together like domestic cattle and poultry in a 
 farm-yard, without one attempting to molest the other. 
 Having left the land on the evening of the 3rd, they saw 
 it again next morning, bearing west. 
 
 On the 14th, at nine o'clock in the morning, they descried 
 what they at first thought was an iceberg, but it turned 
 out to be land almost wholly covered with snow. On the 
 . 1 6th they began to explore the northern coast, and the next 
 morning made sail for the land. As soon as they drew near 
 the shore. Captain Cook proceeded in a boat, accompanied 
 by Mr. Foster and his party, with a view of reconnoitring 
 before they ventured in with the ship, which they afterwards 
 considered unadvisable, as the appearance of the interior 
 was barren and inhospitable. The wild rocks raised their lofty 
 summits till they were lost in the clouds, and the valleys lay 
 covered with everlasting snow. Not a tree was to be seen, 
 or a shrub even big enough to make a tooth-pick. Since 
 their arrival on this coast, the captain, in addition to the 
 common allowance, ordered wheat to be boiled every morn- 
 ing for breakfast ; but any kind of fresh meat was preferred 
 by most on board to salt ; even the flesh of the p>enguin, being 
 fresh, was sufficient to make it palatable. They called that 
 bay Possession Bay. As soon as the boat was hoisted in 
 they made sail along the coast to the east for a distance of 
 eleven or twelve leagues, to a projecting point, which ob- 
 tained the name of Cape Saunders. Beyond this cape is a 
 pretty large bay, which was named Cumberland Bay. On 
 the 20th they fell in with an island, which they named Isle of 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 225 
 
 Georgia, in honour of his majesty. It extends thirty-one 
 leagues in length, with a breadth of about ten leagues. It 
 seems to abound with bays and harbours, the N.E. coast 
 especially, though the vast quantity of ice on the coast 
 renders them, inaccessible the greater part of the year. 
 
 From the 20th to the 27th they had a continuation of 
 foggy weather. Growing tired of high southern latitudes, 
 where nothing was to be found but ice and thick fogs, 
 Captain Cook stood to the east, and soon fell in with a vast 
 number of large icebergs, and a sea strewed with loose ice, 
 which induced him to tack and stand to the west, with the 
 wind at north. The icebergs which at this time surrounded 
 them, were nearly all of equal height, and showed a flat 
 even surface. On the ist of February they sighted a new 
 coast. It proved a high promontory, which was named Cape 
 Montagu, but prudence would not permit them to venture 
 near the shore, as there was no anchorage,, and every . port 
 was blocked or filled up with ice ; indeed, the whole country, 
 from the summits of the mountains down to the very brink 
 of the cliffs which terminate the coast, appeared to be 
 covered with perpetual snow. It was now necessary to sight 
 land to the north, before they proceeded any further to the 
 east. On the 3rd they saw two isles, and in honour of the day 
 on which they were discovered, they named them Candlemas 
 Isles. They were of no great extent, but of considerable 
 height, and were covered with snow. On the 4th they re- 
 sumed their course to the east. About noon they met with 
 several icebergs and some loose ice, the weather continuing 
 hazy, with snow and rain. The risk of exploring a coast in 
 these unknown and icy seas is so very great, that Captain 
 Cook expressed an opinion that no navigator would ever 
 venture further than he did on this occasion, and that lands 
 which may lie to the south would never be explored. In this 
 view of the future of Antarctic exploration the gallant seaman 
 was wrong, however ; for the late Admiral Sir James Ross 
 penetrated to S. lat. 78° 4', and discovered a continent. 
 
 Captain Cook rightly considered it would have been rash 
 to have risked all that had been done during the voyage, in 
 
226 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 discovering a coast which, when explored, would have 
 answered no end whatever, or been of the least use either 
 to navigation or geography ; and, besides, neither the ship 
 nor the crew were in a condition to undertake arduous tasks? 
 nor indeed was there time, had they been ever so well pro- 
 vided. These reasons induced the captain to alter his course 
 to the east, with a very strong gale at north, attended with 
 an exceedingly heavy fall of snow, which lodged in their sails 
 in such quantities that they were frequently obliged to throw 
 the ship up in the wind to shake it out of them. 
 
 On the loth the weather became fair, but piercingly cold, so 
 that the water on deck was frozen, and at noon the mercury 
 in the thermometer was no higher than thirty-four degrees and 
 a half. On the 22nd of February, as they were within two 
 degrees of longitude from their route to the south when they 
 left the Cape of Good Hope, it was of no use proceeding any 
 further to the east under this parallel, as they knew that no 
 land could be there. They had now made the circuit of the 
 Southern Ocean in a high latitude, and traversed it in such a 
 manner as to make the existence of a continent, in Captain 
 Cook's opinion, unless near the pole, out of the reach of 
 navigation. By twice visiting the tropical seas, they had 
 not only settled the situation of some old discoveries, but 
 made there many new ones, and left very little more to be 
 done in that part. Thus the intention of the voyage was in 
 every respect fully answered, the southern hemisphere suffi- 
 ciently explored, and an end put, for the present, to the 
 search after a southern continent. 
 
 Their sails and rigging were so much worn that something 
 was giving way every hour, and they had nothing left either 
 to repair or replace them. Their provisions were in a state 
 of decay, and yielded little nourishment, and they had been 
 a long time without fresh food. The sailors, indeed, were 
 still healthy, and would have cheerfully gone wherever they 
 were led ; but they dreaded the scurvy laying hold of them 
 at a time when they had nothing left to remove it. It would, 
 however, have been cruel to have continued the fatigues and 
 hardships they were continually exposed to, longer than was 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 227 
 
 absolutely necessary ; and their behaviour throughout the 
 whole voyage merited every indulgence which it was possible 
 to give them. Animated by the conduct of the officers, they 
 showed themselves capable of surmounting every difficulty 
 and danger which came in their way, and never once looked 
 either upon one or the other as being at all heightened by 
 their separation from their consort, the Adventure. 
 
 On the 8th of March the mercury, in the afternoon, rose to 
 61^, and they found it necessary to put on lighter clothing. 
 On the 1 2th they lowered a boat, and shot some albatrosses 
 and petrels, which at this time were highly acceptable. Every 
 one had now become impatient to get into port, which induced 
 Captain Cook to yield to the general wish and steer for the 
 Cape of Good Hope. He now demanded of the officers and 
 petty officers the log-books and journals they had kept, which 
 were accordingly delivered to him, and sealed up for the 
 inspection of the Admiralty. He also enjoined on them and 
 the crew not to divulge where they had been till they had 
 received their lordships' permission to do so. 
 
 On the evening of the 17th they saw land about six leagues 
 distant. Next day, having little or no wind, they hoisted out 
 a boat and sent on board a ship which was about two leagues 
 distant, though they were too impatient after news to regard 
 the length of the pull. Soon after three more sail appeared in 
 sight to windward, one of which showed English colours. The 
 boat returning reported that they had visited a Dutch East 
 Indiaman, whose captain very obligingly offered them sugar, 
 arrack, and whatever he had to spare. They were told by 
 some English seamen on board this ship, that the Adventure 
 had arrived at the Cape of Good Hope twelve months ago, 
 and that the crew of one of her boats had been murdered and 
 eaten by the natives of New Zealand. 
 
 On the 19th, the True Briton^ Captain Broadley, from 
 China, bore down upon them. As this ship did not intend to 
 touch at the Cape, the captain put a letter on board for the 
 Secretary of the Admiralty. The melancholy account they 
 had heard of the Adventure was now confirmed. From this 
 ship they procured a parcel of old newspapers, which were 
 
228 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 new to them, and gave them some amusement ; but these 
 were the least favours they received from Captain Broadley. 
 With a generosity pecuUar to the commanders of the East 
 India Company's ships, he sent them fresh provisions, tea, 
 and other articles, which were very acceptable. In the 
 afternoon they parted company, the True Briton standing 
 out to sea, and they in for the land. The next morning, 
 being with them Wednesday, the 22nd, but with the people 
 here Tuesday, the 21st, they anchored in Table Bay, where 
 they found several Dutch ships, some French, and the Ceres, 
 Captain Neate, an English East India Company's ship, from 
 China, bound direct to England, by whom they sent to the 
 Admiralty a copy of the preceding part of this journal, some 
 charts, and other drawings. Before they had well got to an 
 anchor, Captain Cook despatched an officer to acquaint the 
 governor with his arrival, and to request the necessary stores 
 and provisions, which were readily granted. 
 
 The captain now learnt that the Adventure had called 
 here on her return, and he found a letter from Captain 
 Furneaux acquainting him with the loss of his boat and of 
 ten of his best men in Queen Charlotte's Sound. After- 
 wards, on his arrival in England, he put into Captain Cook's 
 hand a complete narrative of his proceedings from the time 
 of their second and final separation, which is here detailed 
 to complete the history of the voyage. 
 
 In October, 1773, they were blown off the coast of New 
 Zealand, when they parted company with the Resolution, 
 and never saw her afterwards. They encountered violent 
 storms till the 8th of November, when, being to the north of 
 Cape PalUser, they bore away for some bay to complete 
 their water and wood, each man being put on an allowance 
 of one quart of water for some days past, and the supply at 
 that rate being only sufficient for six or seven days longer. 
 They anchored at Tolaga Bay, where wood and water were 
 easily obtained. The natives here are the same as those at 
 Queen Charlotte's Sound, but more numerous. In one of 
 their canoes they observed the head of a woman lying in 
 state, adorned with feathers and other ornaments. It had 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 229 
 
 the appearance of being alive, but on examination they found 
 it dry, being preserved with every feature perfect, and kept 
 as the rehc of some deceased relation. Having got about 
 ten tons of water and some wood, they sailed for Queen 
 Charlotte's Sound on the 12th; but violent weather pre- 
 vented them from reaching it till the 30th. They saw 
 nothing of the Resolution^ and began to doubt her safety ; 
 but on going on shore, discerned the place where she had 
 erected her tents ; and on an old stump of a tree in the 
 garden observed these words cut out, " Look underneath." 
 There they dug, and ?oon found a bottle, corked and waxed 
 down, containing a letter from Captain Cook, signifying his 
 arrival on the 3rd instant, and departure on the 24th, and 
 that he intended spending a few days in the entrance of the 
 straits to look for them. They immediately set about the 
 necessary repairs of the ship, which employed them till the 
 1 6th of December. 
 
 Next day they sent the large cutter with Mr. Rowe, a mid- 
 shipman, and the boat's crew, to gather wild greens for the 
 ship's company, with orders to return that evening, as they 
 intended to sail on the following morning. As nothing was 
 heard of the boat that evening, nor the next morning, the 
 second lieutenant, Mr. Burney, went in search of her in the 
 launch manned with the boat's crew and ten marines. Mr. 
 Burney returned about eleven o'clock the same night, and 
 informed them of a horrible scene, which cannot be better 
 described than in his own words : — 
 
 " On the 1 8th we left the ship, and having a light breeze 
 in our favour, we soon got round Long Island. I examined 
 every cove on the larboard-hand as we went along, looking 
 well all around with a telescope. At half-past one we 
 stopped at a beach on the left-hand side going up East Bay, 
 to boil some victuals. Whilst we were cooking I saw an 
 Indian on the opposite shore, running swiftly along the beach 
 to the head of the bay. Our meat being dressed, we got into 
 the boat and put off, and in a short time arrived at the head 
 of this beach, where we saw an Indian settlement. 
 
 "As we drew near, some of the Indians came down to the 
 
230 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 rocks and waved for us to be gone ; but seeing we dis- 
 regarded them, they desisted. Here we found six large 
 canoes hauled up on the beach, most of them double ones, 
 and a great many people. Leaving the boat's crew to 
 guard the boat, I stepped ashore with the marines (the 
 corporal and five men) and searched many of their houses, 
 but found nothing to give me any suspicion. Coming down 
 to the beach, one of the Indians had brought a bundle of 
 hepatoos (long spears), but seeing I looked very earnestly at 
 him, he put them on the ground and walked about with 
 seeming unconcern. Some of the people appearing to be 
 frightened, I gave a looking-glass to one, and a large nail to 
 another. From this place the bay ran, as nearly as I could 
 guess, a good mile. I looked all around with the glass, but 
 saw no boat, canoe, or any sign of inhabitants. I therefore 
 contented myself with firing some guns, which I had done in 
 every cove as I went along. 
 
 " I now kept close to the east shore, and came to another 
 settlement, where the Indians invited us ashore. I inquired 
 of them about the boat, but they pretended ignorance. They 
 appeared very friendly here, and sold us some fish. Within 
 an hour after we left this place, on a small beach adjoining 
 Grass Cove, we saw a very large double canoe just hauled 
 up, with two men and a dog. The men, on seeing us, left 
 their canoe, and ran up into the woods. This gave me 
 reason to suspect I should here get tidings of the cutter. 
 We went ashore, searched the canoe, and found one of the 
 rowlock-ports of the cutter and some shoes, one of which was 
 known to belong to Mr. Woodhouse, one of our midshipmen. 
 One of the people at the same time brought me a piece of 
 meat, which he took to be some of the salt meat belonging 
 to the cutter's crew. On examining this, and smelling it, I 
 found it to be fresh. Mr. Fannin (the master), who was with 
 me, supposed it was dog's flesh, and I was of the same 
 opinion, for I still doubted their being cannibals. But we 
 were soon convinced by the most horrid and undeniable 
 proof 
 
 " A great many baskets (about twenty) lying on the beach 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE, 231 
 
 tied up, we cut them open. Some were full of roasted flesh, 
 and some of fern-root, which serves them for bread. On 
 further search we found more shoes and a hand, which we 
 immediately knew to have belonged to Thomas Hill, one of 
 our forecastle-men, it being marked " T. H." with an Otahei- 
 tean tattoo instrument. I went with some of the people a httle 
 way into the woods, but saw nothing else. Coming down 
 again there was a round spot, covered with fresh earth, about 
 four feet in diameter, where something had been buried. 
 Having no spade, we began to dig with a cutlass, and in the 
 meantime I launched the canoe with intent to destroy her ; 
 but seeing a great smoke ascending over the nearest hill, I 
 got all the people into the boat, and made all the haste I 
 could to be with them before sunset. 
 
 " On opening the next bay, which was Grass Cove, we saw 
 four canoes and a great many people on the beach, who, on 
 our approach, retreated to a small hill about a ship's length 
 from the waterside, where they stood talking to us. A large 
 fire was on the top of the high land beyond the woods, 
 whence, all the way down the hill, the place was thronged 
 like a fair. The savages on the hill still kept hallooing, and 
 making signs for us to land. However, as soon as we got 
 close in we all fired. The first volley did not seem to affect 
 them much ; but on the second they began to scramble 
 away as fast as they could, some of them howling. We con- 
 tinued firing as long as we could see the glimpse of any of 
 them through the bushes. Among the Indians were two very 
 stout men, who never offered to move till they found them- 
 selves forsaken by their companions, and then marched 
 away with great composure and deliberation ; their pride not 
 suffering them to run . One of them, however, got a fall, and 
 either lay there or crawled away on all-fours. The other got 
 clear, without any apparent hurt. I then landed with the 
 marines, and Mr. Fannin stayed to guard the boat. 
 
 "On the beach were two bundles of celery which had been 
 gathered for loading the cutter. A broken oar was stuck up- 
 right in the ground, to which the natives had tied their 
 canoes, a proof that the canoes had been made here. I then 
 
232 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 searched all along at the back of the beach to see if the 
 cutter was there. We found no boat, but instead of her, we 
 saw such a shocking scene of carnage and barbarity as never 
 can be mentioned or thought of but with horror ; for the 
 heads, hearts, and lungs- of several of our people were seen 
 lying on the beach, and, at a little distance, the dogs gnawing 
 their entrails. 
 
 " Whilst we remained almost stupefied on the spot, 
 Mr. Fannin called to us that he heard the savages gather- 
 ing together in the woods ; on which I returned to the boat, 
 and hauling alongside the canoes, we demolished three of 
 them. Whilst this was transacting, the fire on the top of the 
 hill disappeared, and we could hear the Indians in the woods 
 at high words ; I suppose quairelling whether they should 
 attack us, and try to save their canoes. It now grew dark ; 
 I therefore just stepped out and looked once more behind the 
 beach, to see if the cutter had been hauled up in the bushes, 
 but seeing nothing of her, returned and put off. Our whole 
 force would have been barely sufficient to have gone up the 
 hill ; and to have ventured with half (for half must have 
 been left to guard the boat) would have been foolhardiness. 
 As we opened the upper part of the Sound, we saw a very 
 large fire about three or four miles higher up, which formed 
 a complete oval, reaching from the top of the hill down 
 almost to the waterside, the middle space being enclosed all 
 round by the fire like a hedge. I consulted with Mr. Fannin, 
 and we were both of opinion that we could expect to reap no 
 other advantage than the poor satisfaction of killing some 
 more of the savages. Coming between two round islands, 
 situated to the southward of East Bay, we imagined we heard 
 somebody calling. We lay on our oars and listened, but 
 heard no more of it ; we hallooed several times, but to little 
 purpose, the poor souls were far enough out of hearing ; and 
 indeed, I think it some comfort to reflect that, in all proba- 
 bility, every man of them must have been killed on the 
 spot." 
 
 Thus far Mr. Burney's repo]:t, and to complete the account 
 of this tragical transaction, it may not be unnecessary to 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 233 
 
 mention that the people in the cutter were : — Mr. Rowe, Mr. 
 Woodhouse ; Francis Murphy, quartermaster ; WiUiam Facey, 
 Thomas Hill, Michael Bell, and Edward Jones, forecastle- 
 men ; John Cavenaugh and Thomas Miller, belonging to the 
 after-guard ; and James Savilly, the captain's man ; being 
 ten in all. Most of these were the Adventures very best 
 seamen, the stoutest and most healthy men in the ship. Mr. 
 Burney's party brought on board two hands; one belonged 
 to Mr. Rom e, known by a hurt he had received on it, and the 
 other to Thomas Hill, as before mentioned; also the head of 
 the captain's servant. These, with more of the remains, 
 were tied in a hammock and thrown overboard, with ballast 
 and shot sufficient to sink it. 
 
 In all probability this unhappy business originated in some 
 quarrel, which was decided on the spot, or want of due caution 
 on the part of the seamen might have tempted the natives to 
 seize the opportunity of satisfying their inhuman appetites. 
 They were detained in the Sound, by contrary winds, four 
 days after this melancholy affair happened, during which 
 time they saw none of the inhabitants. On the 23rd they 
 weighed and sailed out of the Sound and stood to the east- 
 ward, but were baffled for two or three days by light winds be- 
 fore they could clear the coast. On the loth of January, 1774, 
 they arrived abreast of Cape Horn. They were little more 
 than a month sailing from Cape Palliser, in New Zealand, to 
 Cape Horn, which is 121 degrees of longitude. On opening 
 some casks of peas and flour that had been stowed on the 
 coals they found them very much damaged, and not eatable* 
 so thought it most prudent to make for the Cape of Good 
 Hope. On the 17th of February they made the land off the 
 Cape, and on the 19th anchored in Table Bay, where they 
 found Commodore Sir Edward Hughes, with his Majesty's 
 ships Salisbury and Sea Horse. On the i6th of April Captain 
 Furneaux sailed for England, and on the 14th ot July 
 anchored at Spithead. 
 
 We now return to Captain Cook. The day after his arrival 
 at the Cape of Good Hope he waited on the governor. Baron 
 Plettenberg, and other principal officers, who received and 
 
234 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 treated them with the greatest politeness. Captain Cook 
 had only three men on board whom it was thought necessary 
 to send on shore for the recovery of their health, and for 
 these were provided victuals, drink, and lodging at the rate 
 of thirty stivers, or half-a-crown, per day. On examining 
 the rudder, it was found necessary to unhang it and take 
 it on shore for repairs. They were also delayed for 
 want of caulkers ; but at length, obtaining two workmen 
 from one of the Dutch ships, and the Dutton, English East 
 Indiaman, coming in from Bengal, Captain Price obhged 
 Captain Cook with his men, so that by the 26th of April this 
 work was finished. Having taken on board all necessary 
 stores and a fresh supply of provisions and water, they took 
 leave of the governor and other chief personages, and the 
 next morning repaired on board. 
 
 As soon as they were under sail. Captain Cook saluted the 
 garrison with thirteen guns, which compliment was imme- 
 diately returned with the same number. A Spanish frigate 
 and a Danish Indiaman both saluted them as they passed, 
 and Captain Cook returned each salute with an equal number 
 of guns. At daybreak on the morning of the i6th of May 
 they saw the island of St. Helena, fourteen leagues distant, 
 and at midnight anchored in the roadstead before the town. 
 Governor Skettow and the principal gentlemen of the island 
 received and treated the captain during his stay with the 
 greatest politeness. Some necessary repairs of the ship, 
 which they had not time to do at the Cape, were completed 
 here, and the empty watei; casks were filled, and the crew 
 were regaled with fresh beef purchased at 5d. per lb. 
 
 On the 2 1 St of May the captain took leave of the governor, 
 and repaired on board under a salute of thirteen guns, which 
 he returned. On the morning of the 28th they made the 
 island of Ascension, and the same evening anchored in Cross 
 Bay. They remained here till the evening of the 31st, and 
 notwithstanding they had several parties out every night, 
 got but thirty-four turtles, it being rather too late in the 
 season ; however, as they weighed between 400 and 500 lbs. 
 each, they were pretty well off. The island of Ascension, 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE, 235 
 
 which is about ten miles in length, by about five or six in 
 breadth, has a surface composed of barren hills and valleys, 
 in most of which not a shrub or plant is to be seen for 
 several miles, but only stones and ashes in plenty, an in- 
 dubitable sign of its having been destroyed by a volcano. 
 A high mountain at the south-east end of the isle seems to 
 be left in its original state, and to have escaped the general 
 destruction. Its soil is a kind of white marl, which yet re- 
 tains its vegetative qualities, and produces some grasses, on 
 which the goats, only found in this part of the isle, subsist. 
 
 While they lay in the roads, a sloop belonging to Bermuda 
 had sailed but a few days before with 105 turtles on board, 
 which was as many as she could take in ; but having turned 
 several more on the different sandy beaches, they had ripped 
 open their bellies, taken out the eggs, and left the carcases to 
 putrefy, an act as inhuman as injurious to those who came 
 after them. Turtle, it is said, are to be found at this island 
 from January to June. The method of catching is to have 
 people on watch in the several sandy bays for their coming 
 on shore to lay their eggs, which is always in the night, and 
 then to turn them on their backs, till an opportunity ofters 
 to take them off the next day. 
 
 On the 31st of May Captain Cook left Ascension and 
 steered to the northward. He had a great desire to visit the 
 island of St. Matthew, to settle its situation; but as they 
 found the wind was not favourable, they steered for the island 
 of Fernando de Noronha, on the coast of Brazil, in order to 
 determine its longitude. On the 9th of June, at noon, they 
 made that place, distant six or seven leagues ; it appeared in 
 detached and peaked hills, the largest of which looked like a 
 church tower or steeple. When they arrived in the roads 
 a gun was fired from one of the forts, and the Portuguese 
 colours were displayed, an example followed by all the other 
 forts. Having speedily ascertained the longitude, they bore 
 away without landing. 
 
 By the i8th they got the N.E. trade- wind, attended with 
 fair weather, with occasional light showers of rain ; and as 
 they advanced to the north the wind increased and blew a 
 
236 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 fresh top-gallant gale. On the 21st the captain ordered the 
 still to be fitted to the largest copper, which held about sixty- 
 four gallons. 
 
 The fire was lighted at four o'clock in the morning, and at 
 six the still began to run. It was continued till six in the even- 
 ing, by which time they obtained thirty-two gallons of fresh 
 water, with an expenditure of one bushel and a half of coals, 
 which was about three-fourths of a bushel more than was 
 necessary to have boiled the ship's company's victuals only ; 
 but the expense of fuel was no object with them. 
 
 Nothing worth mentioning happened till the 13th of July, 
 when they made the island of Fayal, one of the Azores, and 
 soon after that of Pico. At daybreak the next morning, they 
 bore away for the Bay of Fayal, or De Horta, in which they 
 anchored at eight o'clock. The sole design in stopping here 
 was to give Mr. Wales an opportunity to find the rate of the 
 watch, the better to enable them to fix, with some degree of 
 certainty, the longitude of these islands. The moment they 
 anchored, the captain sent an officer to wait on the English 
 consul, and to notify his arrival, requesting permission for 
 Mr. Wales to make observations on shore. Mr. Dent, who 
 acted as consul, not only procured this permission of the 
 governor, but accommodated Mr. Wales with a convenient 
 place in his garden to set up his instruments ; and indeed, 
 entertained all the officers in the most liberal and hospitable 
 manner. During their stay the ship's company was served 
 with fresh beef ; and they took on board about fifteen tons of 
 water, which they brought off in the country boats, at the rate 
 of about three shillings per ton. 
 
 The principal produce of Fayal is wheat and Indian corn, 
 with which they supply Pico and some other isles. The 
 chief town, called Villa de Horta, is situated close to the 
 sea, and is defended by two castles, one at each end of the 
 town, connected by a stone wall. This little city, like all 
 others belonging to the Portuguese, is crowded with religious 
 buildings. 
 
 Having left the bay on the morning of the 19th, they 
 steered for the island of Terceira, in order to ascertain its 
 length ; but the weather coming on very thick and hazy, and 
 
THE SECOND VOYAGE, 237 
 
 night approaching, they gave up the design, and proceeded 
 with all expedition for England. On the 29th of July they 
 made the land near Plymouth. The next morning they 
 anchored at Spithead ; and the same day Captain Cook 
 landed at Portsmouth, and set out for London in company 
 with Messrs. Hodges, Wales, and the two Fosters. 
 
 During her absence from England of three years and 
 eighteen days, and under all changes of climate, the Resolu- 
 tion lost but four men, and only one of them by sickness, an 
 immunity which Captain Cook attributes, under the care of 
 Providence, to the following causes : the crew were furnished, 
 as an antiscorbutic, with a quantity of malt, of which were made 
 sweet-wort ; to such of the men as showed the least symptoms 
 of scurvy from one to two or three pints a day were given to 
 each man, or in such proportion as the surgeon found neces- 
 sary. Sour-krout, of which they had a large quantity, is a 
 wholesome vegetable food, also highly antiscorbutic, and it 
 does not spoil by keeping ; a pound of this was served to each 
 man, when at sea, twice a week, or oftener, as was thought 
 necessary. Portable broth was another useful article of which 
 they had a small supply. An ounce of this to each man was 
 boiled in their peas three days a week, and when they were 
 in places where vegetables were to be got, it was boiled with 
 them, and wheat or oatmeal every morning for breakfast, and 
 also with peas and vegetables for dinner.* The surgeon also 
 made use of rob of lemons and oranges, in many cases with 
 great success. But the introduction of the most salutary 
 articles, either as provisions or medicines, will generally prove 
 unsuccessful unless supported by certain regulations. On 
 this principle, many years' experience, together with some 
 hints the captain had from other intelligent officers, enabled 
 him to provide a plan whereby all were to be governed. The 
 crew were divided into three watches, except when all hands 
 were called up on some extraordinary occasions. By this 
 means they were less exposed to the weather than if they had 
 
 ■" The use of these articles of diet at sea, as antiscorbutics, has been superseded 
 by the introduction of lime-juice, also preserved vegetables and meat, and 
 Liebig's Extract. 
 
238 COOK'S VOYAGES. , 
 
 been at watch and watch, and could change their clothes 
 when they happened to get wet. Proper methods were used 
 to keep their persons, hammocks, bedding, and clothes con- 
 stantly clean and dry. Equal care was taken to keep the 
 ship clean and dry between decks. Once or twice a week she 
 was aired with fires ; and when this could not be done, she 
 was smoked with gunpowder, mixed with vinegar or water. 
 They also frequently had a fire made in an iron pot at the 
 bottom of the well, which was of great use in purifying the 
 air in the lower parts of the ship. 
 
 Captain Cook concludes his account of this his second 
 voyage round the world as follows : " It doth not become me 
 to say how far the principal objects of our voyage have been 
 attained. Had we found out a continent there, we might 
 have been better enabled to gratify curiosity ; but we hope 
 our not having found it, after all our persevering researches, 
 will leave less room for future speculation about unknown 
 worlds remaining to be explored. Whatever may be the public 
 judgment about other matters, it is with real satisfaction and 
 without claiming any merit, but that of attention to my duty, 
 that I can conclude this account with an observation, which 
 facts enable me to make, that our having discovered the 
 possibility of preserving health among a numerous ship's 
 company, for such a length of time, in such varieties of 
 climate, and amidst such continued hardships and fatigues, 
 will make this voyage remarkable in the opinion of every 
 benevolent person, when the dispute about a southern con- 
 tinent shall have ceased to occupy the attention and to divide 
 the judgment of philosophers." 
 
 Though Captain Cook was mistaken in thinking that he 
 had established the fact of the non-existence of a southern 
 continent within the reach of navigation, yet during this 
 second voyage he discovered New Caledonia, one of the 
 largest islands in the South Pacific, except New Zealand ; 
 the island of Georgia, and an unknown coast which he named 
 Sandwich Land, the Thule of the southern hemisphere ; and 
 having twice visited the tropical seas, he settled the situations 
 of the old and made several new discoveries. 
 
THE THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE 
 
 OF 
 
 CAPTAIN COOK. 
 
 To show the importance of the discoveries of Captain Cook, 
 and to furnish some idea of the magnitude of his services to 
 geographical science, it may be proper to take a cursory 
 view of that untrodden ground which former enterprising 
 discoverers visited. A brief recapitulation of the results of 
 their expeditions will evince how much the intrepid naval 
 officers of our own country have extended our acquaintance 
 with the globe, opened new channels for the acquisition of 
 knowledge, and afforded fresh materials for the study of 
 human nature in its multiform aspects. 
 
 Columbus and Magellan, two illustrious foreigners, ren- 
 dered their names immortal at an early period. The former, 
 by a perseverance of which there was no precedent, pro- 
 videntially surmounted every obstacle that opposed his pro- 
 gress, and gave to Europe a new continent ; for though he 
 was not the actual discoverer of America, by his voyage to 
 San Salvador he established the fact of the existence of 
 lands in the Western Ocean, and fired the minds of explorers 
 scarcely less gifted with genius and undaunted courage than 
 himself.* Much about the same time, Magellan, inspired 
 
 * Christopher Columbus was destined to afford a memorable instance of the 
 ingratitude of nations and kings towards their greatest men : and when dying he 
 charged his son Fernando to lay beside him in the grave the fetters with whicli 
 Spaniards had requited their illustrious countryman for the gift of a new world. 
 
240 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 by a like spirit of enterprise, and animated by a magnanimity 
 that despised danger, opened a passage to a new sea, to 
 which he gave the name of Pacific. 
 
 On the 6th of November, 1520, Magellan entered the 
 straits that have ever since been called by his name, and on 
 the 27th of the same month beheld the wished-for object of 
 his pursuit, the great Southern Ocean. For one hundred 
 and thirteen days he continued steering to the north-west, 
 and having in that time crossed the line, he fell in with those 
 islands to which he gave the name of Ladrones ; and, pro- 
 ceeding from thence in search of the Moluccas, he found in 
 his way many little islands, where he was hospitably received, 
 and where a friendly intercourse was established. These 
 islands were situated between the Ladrones and what are 
 now known by the name of the Philippines, in one of which, 
 called Nathan, Magellan, encountering a whole army with 
 sixty men, was first wounded with a poisoned arrow and 
 then pierced with a bearded lance. His little squadron, now 
 reduced to two ships and not more than eighty men, departed 
 hastily ; but one only, the Victory, returned by the Cape of 
 Good Hope, and was the first ship that ever went round the 
 world. Other adventurers were now not wanting to follow 
 the steps of this intrepid navigator. 
 
 In 1567, Alverez de Mendamo, another Spaniard, was sent 
 from Lima on a voyage of discovery. He sailed 800 leagues 
 westward from the coast of Peru, and fell in with certain 
 islands in latitude 11^ S., which Captain Cook inclined 
 to the opinion were the cluster since called New Britain.* 
 
 Mendamo was also said to have discovered, in 1575, the 
 island of St. Christoval, and not far from hence the archi- 
 pelago called the Solomon Islands, of which he counted 
 thirty-three, great and small. 
 
 In 1577, Francis Drak«, who was the first Englishman to 
 pass the Straits of Magellan, discovered California, which he 
 lamed New Albion. He also discovered some small islands 
 
 * New Britain is situated in about 5" S. lat., and is separated from New- 
 Ireland by a narrow strait. Both these islands are to the east of New Guinea, 
 and between it and the Solomon group. 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 241 
 
 on his route to the forty-third degree of north latitude ; but as 
 his sole view was to return with his booty, he paid no regard 
 to objects of less concern. He arrived in England by the Cape 
 of Good Hope, in the year 1580. In this year Sir Thomas 
 Cavendish also passed the Straits of Magellan and returned 
 nearly by the same route as his predecessor, touching at the 
 Ladrones, and making some stay at the Philippine Isles, of 
 which on his return he gave an entertaining description. 
 
 In 1595, the Spaniards, intent more on discovery than 
 plunder, fitted out four ships, and gave the command to 
 Alvaro Mendana de Neyra. His discoveries were the 
 Mendana, or Marquesas, Solitary Island, and Santa Cruz. 
 Most of those who embarked on this expedition either died 
 miserably, or were shipwrecked. 
 
 In 1598, Oliver Van Noort passed the Straits, but made 
 no discoveries ; in this year, also, the Sebaldine Islands 
 were discovered by Sebald de Wert, the same now known 
 as the Falkland Isles. In 1605, Pedro Fernando de Quiros 
 conceived the design of discovering a southern continent. 
 He is supposed by Dalrymple and others to have been the 
 first into whose mind the existence of such a continent had 
 ever entered. On the 31st of December he sailed from Callao 
 with two ships and a tender. Luis Paz de Torres was 
 intrusted with the command, and Quiros, from his zeal for 
 the success of the undertaking, was content to act in the 
 inferior station of pilot. Quiros, soon after his return, pre- 
 sented a memorial to Philip II. of Spain, in which he 
 enumerates twenty-three islands that he had discovered, 
 among which was the island of the Virgin Mary, and adjoining 
 it the country called Australia del Espiritu Santo, in which 
 land were found the bays of St. Philip and St. Jago. 
 
 In 1614, George Spitzbergen, with a strong squadron of 
 Dutch ships, passed the Straits of Magellan ; and on the 
 14th of June in the following year, Schouten and Le Maire, in 
 the Unity ^ of 360 tons, and the Hoorn^ of 1 10 tons, sailed from 
 the Texel, professedly for the discovery of a new passage 
 to the South Sea. The Hoorn was burnt in careening at 
 King's Island, on the coast of Brazil, and the other left 
 
242 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 singly to pursue her voyage. In lat. 54° 56' they came in 
 sight of an opening, to which (having happily passed it) they 
 gave the name of Strait Le Maire. Having soon after this 
 weathered the southernmost point of the American continent, 
 they called that promontory Cape Horn, or more properly 
 Hoorn, after the town in Holland, where the project was first 
 secretly concerted ; and two islands which they had passed 
 they named Bernevelt. They also discovered several others, 
 and coasted the north side of New Britain. 
 
 In 1642, Abel Tasman sailed from Batavia in the Heems- 
 kirk, accompanied by the Zee Haan pink, with a design of 
 discovering a soudiern continent. The first land he made 
 was that since known by the name of Tasmania, or Van 
 Diemen's Land. Proceeding in a high latitude to the 
 eastward, he fell in with the westernmost coast of New Zea- 
 land, where most of the crew were murdered by the savages 
 of a bay, which he called Murderers' Bay, subsequently 
 'named by our navigators Queen Charlotte's Sound. In his 
 passage he fell in with the isles of Pylstaert, Amsterdam, 
 Middleburg, and Rotterdam. Then directing his course to 
 the N.W., he discovered eighteen or twenty small islands, to 
 which he gave the name of Prince William's Islands and 
 Heemskirk's Banks. From thence Tasman pursued his 
 course to New Guinea, without discovering the supposed 
 continent, and returned to Batavia on the 15th of June, 
 
 1643. 
 
 In 1681, Dampier passed the Magellan Straits, and in 
 1699 he made a second voyage of discovery, which was 
 chiefly confined to New Holland, New Guinea, New Britain, 
 and the islands adjacent. In 1703 he performed a third 
 voyage, but without making any new discoveries. 
 
 In 1721, the Dutch East India Company, at the instance 
 of Captain Roggewein, fitted out a small fleet for the dis- 
 covery of that continent which was hitherto unknown, 
 though believed universally to exist. Three stout ships were 
 appointed, and were well provided for this service, the Eagky 
 of 36 guns and 1 1 1 men, on board of which embarked Captain 
 Roggewein as commodore, having under him Captain Coster ; 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 243 
 
 the Tienhoven^ of 28 guns and 100 men, of which Captain 
 Bowman was commander ; and the African, galley, com- 
 manded by Captain Rosenthal. From these experienced 
 navigators everything was hoped. They found the Straits of 
 Magellan impracticable, and entered the Southern Ocean, 
 after having endured a variety of difficulties and hardships, by 
 the Straits of Le Maire. Roggewein pursued nearly the same 
 track as Schoten had pointed out, till, veering more to the 
 north, he fell in with the islands on which Commodore Byron 
 first landed. Pursuing their course to the westward, they 
 discovered a cluster of islands, undoubtedly the same as those 
 now called the Friendly Isles, to which they gave the name 
 of the Labyrinth, because it was with difficulty they could 
 clear them. They continued their course towards New Bri- 
 tain and New Guinea, and thence by the way of the Moluccas 
 to the East Indies. 
 
 In 1738 Lazier Bouvet was sent by the French East India 
 Company upon a voyage of discovery in the South Atlantic 
 Ocean. He sailed from Port L'Orient on the 19th of July, 
 on board the Eagle, accompanied by the Mary, and on the 
 1st of January following, discovered what he thought was 
 land in 54° S. lat. ii'E. long., though Captain Cook diligently 
 sought for it, but in vain. Between the years 1740-44 Lord 
 Anson performed his famous voyage of circumnavigation, but 
 he made no discoveries of importance. 
 
 The spirit of nautical research recovered new strength 
 under the patronage and munificent encouragement of King 
 George the Third, who, having succeeded to the throne at the 
 time this country had raised herself to the pinnacle of glory 
 by her successes in three continents, turned his attention to 
 enterprises more adapted to the season of returning peace. 
 His Majesty formed the grand design of exploring the southern 
 hemisphere, and in the prosecution of an object so well adapted 
 to the views of a great commercial people, one voyage followed 
 another in close succession. 
 
 In 1764, Captain, afterwards Admiral, Byron, having under 
 his command the Dolphin and Tamar, passed through the 
 Straits of Magellan into the Pacific Ocean, where he dis- 
 
244 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 covered several islands, and returned to England in May, 
 1768. In the month of August following the Dolphin was 
 again sent out under the command of Captain Wallis, with 
 the Swallow sloop, commanded by Captain Carteret. They 
 proceeded together till they came to the west end of the 
 Straits of Magellan, and in sight of the Great South Sea, 
 where they were separated. Captain Wallis directed his 
 course more westerly than any navigator had done before in 
 so high a latitude; discovered no less than fourteen new 
 islands, and returned to England with the Dolphin in May, 
 1768. His companion. Captain Carteret, kept a different 
 route, and made other discoveries, among which was the strait 
 between New Britain and New Ireland. He returned to 
 England in the Swallow^ after having encountered innumer- 
 able difficulties, in March, 1769. In the same year and 
 month Commodore Bougainville, having circumnavigated 
 the globe, arrived in P'rance. 
 
 In 1769 the Spaniards sent out a ship to trace the dis- 
 coveries of the English and French commanders, which 
 arrived at Otaheite in 1771, and touched at Easter Island. 
 In the same year, 1769, the French also fitted out another 
 ship from the Mauritius, under the command of Captain 
 Kergulen, who, having discovered a few barren islands, con- 
 tented himself with leaving some memorials that were found 
 by Captain Cook. To this latter distinguished navigator was 
 reserved the honour of being the first to construct a chart of 
 the southern extremity of America, from a series of the most 
 satisfactory observations, beginning at the west entrance of the 
 Straits of Magellan, and carried on with unwearied persever- 
 ance round Terra del Fuego through the Straits of Le Maire. 
 
 We have seen how Captain Cook, on his first voyage, 
 returned home by the Cape of Good Hope in July, 1771, and 
 again, how this experienced circumnavigator performed his 
 second voyage in the Resolution^ which sailed from England 
 in July, 1772, and returned on the 30th of the same month in 
 1775. The general object of this and the preceding voyage 
 round the world, was to search for unknown tracts of land 
 that might exist within the bosom of the immense expanse 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 245 
 
 of ocean that occupies the southern hemisphere, and to 
 determine the existence or non-existence of a southern con- 
 tinent. During these voyages the several lands of which 
 any account had been given by the Spaniards or Dutch, 
 were carefully looked for, and most of them found, visited, 
 and accurately surveyed. The Terra Australia del Espiritu 
 Santo of Quiros, which he regarded as part of a southern 
 continent, was circumnavigated by Captain Cook, who 
 assigned to it its true position and extent. Bougainville 
 did no more than discover that the land here was not con- 
 nected; but Captain Cook explored the whole group, 
 Byron, Wallace, and Carteret had each of them con- 
 tributed towards increasing a knowledge of the amazing 
 profusion of islands that exist in the Pacific Ocean, 
 within the limits of the southern tropic, but how far that 
 ocean reached to the west, what lands bounded it on that 
 side, and the connection of those lands with the discoveries 
 of former navigators, remained absolutely unknown till 
 Captain Cook decided the question, and brought home ample 
 accounts of them and their inhabitants. It had been hitherto 
 a favourite conjecture among geographers, that New Zealand 
 was a part of the southern continent, but Captain Cook's 
 voyage in the Endeavour proved the fallacy of this hypothesis, 
 for he spent nearly six months upon its coasts, circum- 
 navigated it completely, and ascertained its extent and 
 divisions into two main islands. Whether New Holland, as 
 Australia was then called, did or did not join New Guinea 
 was another question which Captain Cook decided by sailing 
 between them through Endeavour Strait. He, therefore, in 
 this part of his voyage, established a fact of essential service 
 to navigation by opening, if not a new, at least an unfre- 
 quented and forgotten communication between the Southern 
 Pacific and Indian Oceans. 
 
 To Captain Carteret belongs a new discovery, in the 
 strictest sense of the word. St. George's Channel, through 
 vxhich his ship found a way, between New Britain and New 
 Ireland, is a much better and shorter passage, whether east- 
 ward or westward, than round all the islands and lands to 
 
246 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 the northward. Thus far, therefore, the late voyages of 
 British navigators, to disclose new tracts and to reform old 
 defects in geography, appear to have been prosecuted with 
 a satisfactory degree of success. 
 
 But something was still wanting to complete the great plan 
 of discovery. The accessible extremities of the southern 
 hemisphere had been visited and surveyed ; yet great variety 
 of opinion prevailed concerning the navigable boundaries of 
 the northern hemisphere, particularly as to the existence, or 
 at least the practicability of, a northern passage between the 
 Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, either by sailing eastward 
 round Asia, or westward round North America ; it was then 
 considered that such a passage, if it existed, would tend to 
 shorten and facilitate communication with the East, which 
 was carried on only by the tedious Cape route, a view which 
 we now know to be fallacious, for the North-west passage, 
 though discovered, is impracticable. This was a favourite 
 project of the English as early as the fifteenth century, and 
 its execution appeared so certain to the Cabots, that the 
 younger Sebastian made the original attempt to discover a 
 North-west passage in 1497, which ended in the discovery of 
 Newfoundland and the Labrador coast. He returned by 
 the way of Newfoundland, bringing home two Esquimaux. 
 
 A Bristol merchant named Thorne addressed more than one 
 letter to Henry the Eighth on the same subject, but without 
 result. Twenty-five years later the citizens of London fitted 
 out the Bona Esperansa, the Edward Bonadventure, and 
 the Bona Confidential under the flag of that "valiant and 
 well-born" gentleman. Sir Hugh Willoughby, with Richard 
 Chancelour second in command, and on the loth of May, 
 1553, they passed down the river on their perilous journey. 
 At Greenwich, where the Court was residing, the Privy Council 
 and courtiers, and large crowds on both sides of the river, 
 shouted and waved farewells, the good King Edward only 
 being unable to leave his sick-bed. At Gravesend the aged 
 Cabot came on board, and, after making liberal rewards to 
 the mariners, " wished them to pray for the good fortune and 
 prosperous success of the adventure, which being ended, he 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 247 
 
 and his friends departed most gently, commending them to 
 the governance of Almighty God." After being wind-bound 
 on the coast for some days, they at last " committed them- 
 selves to the sea, giving their last adieu to their native 
 country, which they knew not whether they should ever 
 return to see or not." 
 
 Chancelour, in a certain sense, "sped well," for he got 
 home through Russia, after a sledge journey of 1,500 miles 
 from Archangel ; but it fared otherwise with Willoughby 
 and the crews of the two first-named ships, for, separated 
 from their consort, they perished of cold and hunger on the in- 
 hospitable shores of Lapland. As Thomson afterwards sung, — 
 
 ** Such was the Briton's fate, 
 As with first prow (what have not Britons dared ) 
 He for the passage sought, attempted since 
 So much in vain, and seeming to be shut 
 By jealous Nature with eternal laws." 
 
 But failure was not the parent of despair ; and in 1 576 
 Sir Martin Frobisher undertook a second expedition to the 
 North-west, Queen Elizabeth, from her palace at Greenwich, 
 waving with her handkerchief a hearty adieu to her gallant 
 subjects. Frobisher explored a strait called after him in 
 63° 30' N. lat, but, after exhibiting much pertinacity, was 
 forced to relinquish the hope of achieving a passage by this 
 route to India. 
 
 In 1583 Sir Humphrey Gilbert renewed the attempt with 
 five vessels, one only of ten tons ; but he was unsuccessful. 
 Gilbert coasted along the American continent from the 60th 
 degree of North latitude, till he fell in with the Gulf of 
 St. Lawrence, took possession in the name of his sovereign 
 of the land, since called by the French and now known as 
 Canada, and was the first that projected and promoted the 
 estabhshment of the fisheries in Newfoundland. 
 
 Two years later (1585) Captain John Davis made the first 
 of three trials for a North-west passage, each of which proved 
 unfortunate and unsuccessful. In his progress he passed the 
 strait that still bears his name, and advanced as high as 
 66° 40' N. lat. 
 
 Mr. Henry Hudson, in the year 1610, projected a new 
 
248 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 course towards the North-west, which brought him to the 
 mouth of the bay that now bears his name. But the adven- 
 ture ended by the mutiny of his crew, and the tragical death 
 of the captain and seven of his sick followers. 
 
 The year following, Sir Henry Button undertook the task, 
 but with no better success than his predecessor. 
 
 He was followed by James Hall and William Baffin, who 
 both met with tragic ends. The former fell by the hands of 
 a savage in this fruitless expedition; and Baffin was killed, 
 in the year 1622, at the siege of the island of Ormuz, when an 
 English fleet assisted the Persians. Before his death, Baffin, 
 who holds a foremost place amongst Arctic navigators, re- 
 newed the pursuit after the chimera that has lured so many 
 brave seamen to their death ; and, in 1616, in his ship, the 
 Discovery^ examined a sea that communicates with Davis's 
 Strait, which he found to be no other than a great bay, and 
 called after his own name ; a passage to the north, in 
 lat. 79°, which he thought was an inlet, he called Smith's 
 Sound. This famous Smith's Sound has been recognised by 
 navigators of our day, as the portal through which all must 
 pass who seek access to the North Pole. By it Kane and Hall 
 have advanced to the highest latitudes yet attained, and through 
 it now Captains Nares and Stephenson, and our countrymen, 
 in the ships Alert 2^^^^ Discovery (may it be a name of happy 
 augury !), will push, in their gallant attempt to plant the 
 British flag on that mysterious point of the earth's surface. 
 
 In 1 63 1 Luke Fox made a voyage in search of the same 
 supposed passage, but to as little purpose as the rest. 
 
 He was followed by Captain James, who, after the most 
 elaborate search, changed his opinion, and declared that no 
 such passage existed. 
 
 Wood's failure in 1676 seems to have closed the list of 
 unfortunate Northern expeditions in that century, and the 
 subject appears to have slept for nearly another century, 
 when Mr. Dobbs once more recalled the attention of this 
 country to the probability of a North-west passage through 
 Hudson's Bay. In consequence of his proposals Captain 
 Middleton was sent out by the British Government in 1741, 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 249 
 
 and Captains Smith and Moore by a private society in 1746, 
 each encouraged by an Act of Parhament passed in the 
 preceding year, that annexed a reward of twenty thousand 
 pounds to the discovery of a passage ; however, they all 
 returned from Hudson's Bay with reports of their proceed- 
 ings that left the attainment of the great object in view as 
 distant as ever.* 
 
 But it was not yet certain that such a passage might not 
 be found on the western side of America by a North-east 
 passage. Researches of this kind were no longer left to the 
 solicitation, or to the subscriptions of private adventurers ; 
 they engaged royal attention, and were warmly promoted by 
 the minister at the head of the Naval Department ; and hence 
 it was that while Captain Cook was prosecuting his voyage 
 towards the South Pole, Captain Phipps, better known as Lord 
 Mulgrave, in May, 1773, sailed with two ships, the Racehorse 
 and Carcase^ to determine how far navigation was practicable 
 towards the North Pole. After narrowly escaping destruc- 
 tion, the vessels returned in the autumn. Captain Phipps 
 has put upon record that he was astonished at what the 
 earlier Arctic navigators had achieved ; for, says he, '' they 
 encountered dangers which must have been alarming from 
 their novelty with the greatest fortitude and perseverance, 
 and also showed diligence and skill which might have done 
 honour to modern seamen." 
 
 That nothing might be left unattempted, though much had 
 been already done. Captain Cook, whose professional know- 
 
 * Besides the above Arctic explorers, our naval history furnishes other names, 
 of whom the most famous are Lancaster, after whom the sound in 74*' N. lat. was 
 called ; Borroughs, who attempted the North-west passage in 1556, twenty-four 
 years later ; Jackman and Pell, who effected Uttle, the latter being lost, together 
 with his ship ; and Poole, who sailed, soon after Hudson's attempt, in the Amity y 
 but lost his ship after reaching the Spitzbergen coast. The Dutch also made 
 attempts, their first expedition dating in the year 1595, but they effected nothing. 
 During the present century this country has continued the task bequeathed to 
 her sons by their fathers, and the names of Parr^--, Ross, Austin, Back, Franklin, 
 McClure, McClintock, Osborn, and a host of others, arise to the memory as 
 those of seamen not less gallant and successful than the Arctic heroes of bygone 
 times in the noble task of geographical research. 
 
250 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 ledge could only be equalled by the persevering diligence 
 with which he had employed it in the course of his former re- 
 searches, was called upon once more to resume his survey of 
 the globe. This brave and experienced commander might 
 have spent the remainder of his days in the command to 
 which he had been appointed in Greenwich Hospital ; but he 
 cheerfully relinquished this honourable station in a letter to 
 the Admiralty, dated February lo, 1776, placed his services 
 at the disposal of their lordships, and undertook a third 
 voyage, which, in one respect, was less fortunate than any 
 former expedition, being performed at the expense of the 
 precious and most valuable life of its conductor. Former 
 circumnavigators had returned to Europe by the Cape of 
 Good Hope ; the arduous and, as we now know, impossible 
 task was assigned to Captain Cook of attempting it by 
 reaching the high northern latitudes between Asia and 
 America. He was ordered to proceed to Otaheite, or the 
 Society Islands, and then, having crossed the equator into 
 the northern tropic, to hold such a course as might most 
 probably give success to the attempt of finding out a northern 
 passage. But that the reader may be enabled to judge with 
 precision of the great outlines of the present important 
 voyage, of the various objects it had in view, and how far they 
 were carried into execution, it may be proper to insert a 
 copy of the Admiralty^s instructions to Captain Cook. 
 
 '^ Whereas, the Earl of Sandwich has signified to us his 
 majesty's pleasure, that an attempt should be made to find 
 out a northern passage by sea from the Pacific to the Atlantic 
 Ocean ; and, whereas, we have in pursuance thereof caused 
 his Majesty's sloops Resolution and Discovery to be fitted, in 
 all respects, proper to proceed upon a voyage for the purpose 
 above mentioned; and from the experience we have had of 
 your abilities and good conduct in your late voyages, have 
 thought fit to intrust you with the conduct of the present 
 intended voyage, and with that view appointed you to com- 
 mand the first-mentioned sloop, and directed Captain Clarke, 
 who commands the other, to follow your orders for his further 
 proceedings ; you are hereby required and directed to 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 251 
 
 proceed with the said two sloops directly for the Cape of 
 Good Hope, unless you shall judge it necessary to stop at 
 Madeira, the Cape de Verd, or Canary Islands, to take in 
 wine for the use of their companies ; in which case you are at 
 liberty so to do, taking care to remain there no longer than 
 may be necessary for that purpose ; and on your arrival at 
 the Cape of Good Hope, you are to refresh the sloops' 
 companies with as much provision and water as can be con- 
 veniently stowed. 
 
 " If possible, you are to leave the Cape of Good Hope by 
 the end of October or beginning of November next, and 
 proceed to the southward in search of some islands, said to 
 have been lately seen by the French, in the latitude 48 deg. 
 south, and under or near the meridian of Mauritius. In 
 case you find those islands, you are to examine them 
 thoroughly for a good harbour ; and upon discovering one, 
 make the necessary observations to faciUtate the finding it 
 again, as a good port in that situation may hereafter prove 
 very useful, although it should afford nothing more than 
 shelter, wood, and water. You are not, however, to spend 
 too much time in looking out for those islands, or in the 
 examination of them, if found, but to proceed to Otaheite, 
 or the Society Isles (touching at New Zealand in your way 
 thither if you should judge it necessary and convenient), and 
 taking care to arrive there time enough to admit of your 
 giving the sloops' companies the refreshment they may stand 
 in need of before you prosecute the further object of these 
 instructions. Upon your arrival at Otaheite, or the Society 
 Isles, you are to land Omai at such of them as he may 
 choose, and to leave him there. 
 
 " You are to distribute among the chiefs of those islands 
 such part of the presents with which you have been supplied 
 as you shall judge proper, reserving the remainder to distribute 
 among the natives of the countries you may discover in the 
 northern hemisphere ; and having refreshed the people 
 belonging to the sloops under your command, and taken on 
 board such w^ood and water as they may respectively stand in 
 need of, you are to leave those islands in the beginning of 
 
252 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 February, or sooner if you shall judge it necessary, and then 
 to proceed in as direct a course as you can to the coast of 
 New Albion, endeavouring to fall in with it in the latitude of 
 45 deg. north, and taking care in your way thither not to lose 
 any time in search of new lands, or to stop at any you may 
 fall in with, unless you find it necessary to recruit your wood 
 and water. 
 
 " You are also in your way thither, strictly enjoined not to 
 touch upon any part of the Spanish dominions on the western 
 continent of America, unless driven thither by some unavoid- 
 able accident, in which case you are to stay no longer there 
 than shall be absolutely necessary, and to be very careful not 
 to give umbrage or offence to any of the inhabitants or 
 subjects of his Catholic Majesty. And, if in your further 
 progress to the northward, as hereafter directed, you find any 
 subjects of any European prince or state upon any part of 
 the coast you may think proper to visit, you are not to disturb 
 them, or give them any just cause of offence, but, on the 
 contrary, to treat them with civility and friendship. 
 
 " Upon your arrival on the coast of New Albion, you are to 
 put into the first convenient port to recruit your wood and 
 water and procure refreshments, and then to proceed north- 
 ward along the coast as far as the latitude of 65*^, or farther, 
 if you are not obstructed by lands or ice ; taking care not 
 to lose any time in exploring rivers or inlets, or upon any 
 other account until you get in the before-mentioned latitude 
 of 65^, where we could wish you to arrive in the month of 
 June next. When you get that length you are very carefully 
 to search for and explore such rivers or inlets as may appear 
 of considerable extent, and pointing towards Hudson's or 
 Baffin's Bays, and if, from your own observations or from 
 information from the natives (who, there is reason to believe, 
 are the same race of people, and speak the same language — 
 of which you are furnished with a vocabulary — as the Esqui- 
 maux), there shall appear to be a certainty, or even a proba- 
 bility, of a water passage into the afore-mentioned bays, or 
 either of them, you are, in such case, to use your utmost 
 endeavours to pass through with one or both of the sloops, 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 253 
 
 unless you shall be of opinion that the passage may be 
 effected with more certainty, or with greater probability, by 
 smaller vessels ; in which case you are to set up the frames 
 of one or both of the small vessels with which you are provided, 
 and when they are put together, and are properly fitted, 
 stored, and victualled, you are to despatch one or both of 
 them, under the care of proper officers, with a sufficient 
 number of petty officers, men, and boats, in order to attempt 
 the said passage ; with such instructions for rejoining you, if 
 they should fail, or for their further proceedings, if they 
 should succeed in the attempt, as you shall judge most 
 proper. But, nevertheless, if you shall find it more eligible 
 to pursue any other measures than those above pointed out, 
 in order to make a discovery of the before-mentioned passage 
 (if any such there be), you are at liberty ; and we leave it to 
 your discretion to pursue such measures accordingly. 
 
 " But, should you be satisfied that there is no passage 
 through the bays, sufficient for the purposes of navigation, 
 you are, at the proper season of the year, to repair to the 
 port of St. Peter and St. Paul, in Kamtschatka, or wherever 
 else you shall judge more proper, in order to refresh your 
 people and pass the winter ; and in the spring of the ensuing 
 year, 1778, to proceed from thence to the northward, as far as 
 in your prudence you may think proper, in further search of 
 a North-east or North-v/est passage from the Pacific Ocean 
 into the Atlantic, or North Sea ; and if, from your own 
 observation, or any information you may receive, there shall 
 appear to be a probability of such a passage, you are to 
 proceed as above directed ; and having discovered such a 
 passage, or failed in the attempt, make the best of your way 
 back to England, by such route as you may think best for 
 the improvement of geography and navigation ; repairing to 
 Spithead with both sloops, where they are to remain till 
 further orders. 
 
 " And at whatever places you may touch in the course of 
 your voyage, where accurate observations of the nature here- 
 after mentioned have not been made, you are, as far as your 
 time will allow, very carefully to observe the situation of 
 
254 COOK'S VO YAGES, 
 
 such places, both in latitude and longitude ; the variation of 
 the needle ; bearings of headlands ; height, direction, and 
 course of the tides and currents ; depths and soundings of 
 the sea ; shoals, rocks, &c. ; and also to survey, make charts, 
 and take views of such bays, harbours, and different parts 
 of the coast, and to make such notations thereon as may be 
 useful either to navigation or commerce. You are also care- 
 fully to observe the nature of the soil and the produce thereof; 
 the animals or fowls that inhabit or frequent it ; the fishes 
 that are found in the rivers or upon the coast, and in what 
 plenty ; and in case there are any peculiar to such places, to 
 describe them minutely, and to make as accurate drawings 
 of them as you can ; and if you find any metals, minerals, 
 or valuable stones, or any extraneous fossils, you are to bring 
 home specimens of each ; as also of the seeds of such trees, 
 shrubs, plants, fruits, and grains, peculiar to those places, 
 as you may be able to collect, and to transmit them to our 
 secretary, that proper experiments and examinations may be 
 made of them. You are likewise to examine the genius, 
 temper, disposition, and number of the natives and inhabit- 
 ants, where you find any ; and to endeavour, by all proper 
 means, to cultivate a friendship with them, making them 
 presents of such trinkets as you. may have on board, and 
 they may like best ; inviting them to traffic, and showing 
 them every kind of civility and regard, but taking care, never- 
 theless, not to suffer yourselves to be surprised by them; 
 but to be always on your guard against any accidents. 
 
 "You are also, with the consent of the natives, to take 
 possession, in the name of the King of Great Britain, of 
 convenient situations in such countries as you may discover, 
 that have not already been discovered or visited by any other 
 European power ; and to distribute among the inhabitants 
 such things as will remain as traces and testimonies of your 
 having been there; but if you find the countries so discovered 
 are uninhabited, you are to take possession of them for his 
 majesty, by setting up proper marks and inscriptions as first 
 discoverers and possessors. 
 
 " But forasmuch as, in undertakings of this nature, several 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 255 
 
 emergencies may arise not to be foreseen, and therefore not 
 particularly to be provided for by instructions before hand, 
 you are, in such cases, to proceed as you shall judge most 
 advantageous to the service on which you are employed ; 
 and you are, by all opportunities, to send to our secretary, for 
 our information, accounts of your proceedings, and copies of 
 the surveys and drawings you shall have made ; and upon 
 your arrival in England, you are immediately to repair to this 
 office, in order to lay before us a full account of your pro- 
 ceedings in the whole course of your voyage, taking care, 
 before you leave the sloop, to demand from the officers and 
 petty officers the log-books and journals they may have kept, 
 and to seal them up for our inspection, and enjoining them, 
 and the whole crew, not to divulge where they have been 
 until they have permission so to do ; and you are to direct 
 Captain Clarke to do the same with respect to the officers^ 
 petty officers, and crew of the Discovery. 
 
 " Should any accident happen to the Resolution in the 
 course of the voyage, so as to disable her from proceeding 
 any further, you are in such case to remove yourself and her 
 crew into the Discovery^ and to prosecute your voyage in her, 
 her commander being hereby strictly required to receive you 
 on board, and to obey your orders, the same in every respect 
 as when you were actually on board the Resolution ; and in 
 case of your inability by sickness, or otherwise, to carry these 
 instructions into execution, you are to be careful to leave 
 them with the next officer in command, who is hereby required 
 to execute them in the best manner he can. 
 
 "The above instructions were given July 6th, 1776, under 
 the hands of the Earl of Sandwich, Lord C. Spencer, Sir 
 H. Palliser ; and, by command of their lordships, signed, 
 "Philip Stephens, Secretary of the Admiralty." 
 
 In order to carry this noble and extensive plan into 
 execution, on the 14th of February, 1776, the Resolution and 
 Discovery^ having been completely equipped in the dock at 
 Deptford, were put into commission. Captain Cook hoisted 
 his pendant on board the former sloop, and the command 
 of the Discovery^ of 300 tons burthen, which had been 
 
2S6 . COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 purchased into the service, was given to Captain Gierke, who 
 had been Captain Cook's second heutenant on board the 
 Resolution^ in his second voyage round the world. Both 
 ships were well fitted out, and supplied abundantly with 
 every article necessary for a long voyage ; and on the 8th of 
 June, while they lay in Long Reach, they had the satisfaction 
 of a visit from Earl Sandwich, Sir Hugh Palliser, and others 
 of the Board of Admiralty, to ascertain whether everything 
 had been completed pursuant to their orders and for the 
 convenience of their crews. They honoured Captain Cook 
 with their company to dinner on that day, and were saluted 
 on their coming on board and on their going on shore, with 
 seventeen guns and three cheers. To convey some permanent 
 benefit to the inhabitants of Otaheite and of the other islands 
 which they might happen to visit, his Majesty ordered a 
 supply of some useful animals, with hay and corn for their 
 support. They were also furnished with a sufficient quantity 
 of valuable European garden seeds which might add fresh 
 supplies of food to the vegetable productions of the newly- 
 discovered islands. They had also an extensive assortment 
 of iron, tools, and trinkets, to facilitate a friendly commerce 
 and intercourse with the inhabitants of such new countries as 
 might be discovered. A variety of other articles, which might 
 be conducive to health, comfort, or convenience, were also 
 added. In furtherance of geographical science, a variety 
 of astronomical and nautical instruments were intrusted by 
 the Board of Longitude to Captain Cook and Mr. King, his 
 second lieutenant, who volunteered to supply the place of 
 a professional observer. The Board likewise intrusted them 
 with the time-keeper, by Kendal, Captain Cook had employed 
 on his last voyage, and which had given great satisfaction. 
 Another chronometer and a similar assortment of astro- 
 nomical and other instruments were put on board the Dis- 
 covery for the use of Mr. William Bailey, who was engaged 
 as an observer on board that sloop. Though several young 
 men among the sea-officers were capable of being employed 
 in constructing charts, drawing plans, and taking views of 
 the coasts and headlands, nevertheless, Mr. Webster was 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 257 
 
 engaged to embark with Captain Cook for the purpose of 
 supplying the defects of written accounts, by taking accurate 
 drawings of the most memorable scenes and transactions 
 Mr. Anderson, also, surgeon to Captain Cook, added to his 
 professional abilities a great proficiency in natural history. 
 This gentleman had already visited the South Sea Islands in 
 the same ship, and enabled the captain to enrich his history 
 of his voyage with useful and valuable remarks. The voca- 
 bularies of the Friendly and Sandwich Islands, and of the 
 natives of Nootka, had been furnished to the commander by 
 this useful associate, and a fourth vocabulary, in which the lan- 
 guage of the Esquimaux was compared with that of the Amer- 
 icans on the opposite side of the continent, had been prepared 
 by the captain himself The confessed abilities and great 
 assiduity of Mr. Anderson, in observing everything that re- 
 lated either to natural history or to manners and language, 
 and the desire manifested by Captain Cook on all occasions 
 to have the assistance of that gentleman, afforded proof of the 
 great value of his collections. The Resoltitioft had the same 
 complement of officers and men that she had in her former 
 voyage, and the establishment of the Discovery varied from 
 that of the Advejititre in the single instance of her having no 
 marine officer on board. This arrangement was finally com- 
 pleted at Plymouth, and on the 9th of July they received 
 the party of marines allotted for the voyage. On board both 
 vessels were 192 persons, officers included. Those of the 
 Resolution were Lieutenants Gore, King, and Williamson ; 
 Bligh,"^ master ; Anderson, surgeon ; and Philips, lieutenant 
 
 * Mr. William Bligh was the same officer who commanded the Bounty, the 
 crew of which mutinied on April 8, 1789, off Otaheite, and, having bound Lieu- 
 tenant Bligh, turned him adrift in the long-boat with eighteen men, and with 
 only 150 lbs. of biscuit, 32 lbs. of pork, and a 28-gallon cask of water. Mr. 
 Bligh ultimately reached Timor, having traversed 3,618 miles in forty-six days. 
 The Pa)tdora was despatched from England to bring the mutineers to justice, 
 and eighteen were brought off the island ; but the frigate was wrecked, when 
 several men were drowned. Ten of the mutineers reached Englahd and 
 were tried by court-martial, when three were hanged in June, 1792. Fletcher 
 Christian, the ringleader, and the mutineers proceeded in Xh^ Be ?inty to Pitcairn's 
 Island, where they were discovered in 1809. 
 
 R 
 
^58 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 of marines. The officers of the Discovery were Lieutenants 
 Burney and Rickman ; Edgar, master ; and Law, surgeon. 
 Mention should also be made of a midshipman of the Dis- 
 covery^ who lived to find himself famous. This was Mr. 
 Vancouver, who, a few years later, made important dis- 
 coveries on the coast of North America, where an island, now 
 forming an important British colony, was named after him. 
 Captain Cook also embarked Omai, a native of the Society 
 Isles, who had been brought to England by Captain Furneaux 
 in the preceding voyage, and had been introduced into the 
 highest ranks of London society by the Earl of Sandwich, 
 at whose house he resided. Omai left his friends in London 
 with a mixture of regret and satisfaction. When he reflected 
 on the kindness he had received he could not refrain from 
 tears, but the pleasing idea of revisiting his original con- 
 nections made his eyes sparkle with joy. 
 
 As the original voyage, from which our historical account 
 is abstracted, is written in the words of Captain Cook till his 
 lamented death, and afterwards in those of Captain King, who 
 published the whole, we have preferred giving the narrative 
 in the first person, with occasional remarks and abbreviations 
 — a course which we hope will commend itself to the ap- 
 proval of the reader. 
 
 Contrary winds and other circumstances of little conse- 
 quence prevented the ships from clearing the Channel till 
 the 14th of July, 1776. 
 
 Nothing material happened till the ist of August, when we 
 arrived off Teneriffe, one of the Canaries, where several of 
 the gentlemen landed. It is said that none of the aboriginal 
 inhabitants remain here as a distinct people, but that the 
 produce of their intermarriage with the Spaniards may still 
 be traced in a strong and muscular race dispersed over the 
 islands. 
 
 On the 4th we weighed anchor and proceeded on our 
 voyage. At nine o'clock in the evening of the loth we saw 
 the island of Bonavista, bearing south, distant little more 
 than a league, though at this time we thought ourselves much 
 farther off. This, however, proved a mistake, for after 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 259 
 
 hauling to the eastward till twelve o'clock to clear the sunken 
 rocks that lie about a league from the south-east point of the 
 island, we found ourselves at that time close upon them, and 
 but just weathered the breakers. Our situation, for a few 
 moments, was very alarming. I did not choose to sound, as 
 that might have heightened the danger instead of lessening 
 it. For some days preceding the 6th of October we had 
 seen albatrosses, pintadoes, and other petrels, and now saw 
 three penguins, which induced us to sound, though we found 
 no ground at 1 50 fathoms. 
 
 On the loth of October we arrived at the Cape of Good 
 Hope, and found in the bay two French East India ships, 
 the one outward and the other homeward bound. Two or 
 three days before our arrival another homeward-bound ship 
 of the same nation had parted from her cable and been 
 driven on shore at the head of the bay, where she was lost. 
 The crew were saved, but the greater part of the cargo 
 shared the same fate as the ship, or was plundered and stolen 
 by the inhabitants. This is the account the French officers 
 gave me, and the Dutch themselves could not deny the facts ; 
 but, by way of excusing themselves for being guilty of a 
 crime disgraceful to every civilised state, they endeavoured 
 to lay the whole blame on the French captain for not applying 
 in time for a guard. As soon as we had saluted, I went on 
 shore, accompanied by some of my officers, and waited on 
 the governor and other officials. These gentlemen received 
 me with the greatest civility, and the governor, in particular, 
 promised me every assistance that the place afforded. At 
 the same time I obtained his leave to set up our observatory, 
 to pitch tents for the sailmakers and coopers, and to bring 
 the cattle on shore to graze near our encampment. Before I 
 returned on board, I ordered a daily supply of soft bread, 
 fresh meat, and greens for the ship's company. 
 
 Nothing remarkable happened till the evening of the 31st, 
 when it began to blow excessively hard from the south-east, 
 and continued for three days, during which time there was 
 no communication between the ship and the shore. The Reso- 
 lution was the only ship in the bay that rode out the gale 
 
26o COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 without dragging her anchors. We felt its effects not less 
 sensibly on shore ; the tents and observatory were torn to 
 pieces, and the astronomical quadrant narrowly escaped 
 irreparable damage. On the 3rd of November the storm 
 ceased. 
 
 The Z^/i-^r^z/^r)/, having been detained some days at Plymouth 
 after the Resolution^ did not arrive here till the loth. Captain 
 Gierke informed me that he had sailed from Plymouth on the 
 1st of August, and should have been with us a week sooner 
 if the late gale of wind had not blown him off the coast. 
 Upon the whole, he was seven days longer in his passage from 
 England than we had been. He had the misfortune to lose 
 one of his marines, who fell overboard ; but there had been 
 no other mortality among his people, and they now arrived 
 well and hearty. 
 
 While the ships w^re getting ready, some of our officers 
 made an excursion into the neighbouring country. 
 
 Here I added to my original stock of live animals by pur- 
 chasing two young bulls, two heifers, two young stone horses, 
 two mares, two rams, several ewes and goats, and some 
 rabbits and poultry. All of them were intended for New 
 Zealand, Otaheite, and the neighbouring islands, or any other 
 place in the course of our voyage where there mi'ght be a 
 prospect of their proving useful to posterity. Having given 
 Captain Clerke a copy of my instructions, and an order 
 directing him how to proceed in case of separation, we re- 
 paired on board on the morning of the 30th. At five in the 
 afternoon we weighed and stood out of the bay. We steered 
 a south-east course, with a very strong gale from the west-- 
 ward, followed by a mountainous sea, which made the ship 
 roll and tumble exceedingly, and gave us a great deal of 
 trouble to preserve from injury the cattle we had on board. 
 Notwithstanding all our care, several goats, especially the 
 males, died, as also some sheep. This misfortune was, in a 
 great measure, owing to the cold, which we now began to 
 feel most sensibly. 
 
 Nothing very interesting happened from the 5th of Decem- 
 ber till the 26th of January, when they arrived at Van Diemen's 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 261 
 
 Land, where, as soon as they had anchored in Adventure Bay, 
 Captain Cook says, I ordered the boats to be hoisted out. 
 In one of them I went myself to look for the most com- 
 modious place for furnishing ourselves with the necessary 
 supplies, and Captain Clerke went in his boat upon the same 
 service. Early next morning I sent Lieutenant King to the 
 east side of the bay, with two parties, one to cut wood and 
 the other grass, under the protection of the marines, as, 
 although none of the natives had appeared, there could be 
 no doubt that some were in the neighbourhood. I also sent 
 a launch for water, and afterwards visited all the parties 
 myself In the evening we drew the seine at the head of the 
 bay, and at one haul caught a great quantity of fish ; most of 
 them were of that sort known to seamen by the name of 
 elephant fish. In the afternoon, next day, we were agreeably 
 surprised, while cutting wood, with a visit from eight men 
 and a boy, natives of the country. They approached us from 
 the woods, without betraying any marks of fear, for none of 
 them had any weapons, except one, who held in his hand a 
 stick, about two feet long and pointed at one end. They 
 were of common stature, but rather slender. Their skin was 
 black, and also their hair, which was as woolly as that of any 
 native of Guinea ; but they were not distinguished by remark- 
 ably thick lips nor flat noses. On the contrary, their features 
 were far from being disagreeable; most of them had their 
 hair and beards smeared with red ointment, and some 
 had their faces also painted with the same composition. 
 They received our presents without the least appearance of 
 satisfaction, and when some bread was offered them they 
 either returned it or threw it away without even tasting it. 
 They also refused some elephant fish, both raw and 
 dressed. However, upon giving them some birds, they did 
 not return these, and easily made us comprehend that they 
 were fond of such food. I had brought two pigs ashore with 
 a view to leave them in the woods. The instant these came 
 within reach they seized them, as a dog would have done, by 
 the ears, and were carrying them off immediately, with no 
 other apparent intention than to kill them. 
 
262 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 Being desirous of knowing the use of the stick which one 
 of our visitors carried in his hand, I made signs to them to 
 show me, and so far succeeded that one of them set up a 
 piece of wood as a mark, and threw at it from a distance of 
 about twenty yards. But he had Httle reason to commend 
 his dexterity, for, after repeated trials, he was still very wide 
 of the mark. Omai, to show them how much superior our 
 weapons were to theirs, then fired his musket at it, which 
 alarmed them so much that, notwithstanding all he could do 
 or say, they ran instantly into the woods. Thus ended our 
 first interview with the natives. 
 
 Immediately after their final retreat I ordered the two 
 pigs — being a boar and a sow — to be carried about a mile 
 within the woods, at the head of the bay, and saw them left 
 there, by the side of a fresh-water brook. A young bull and 
 a cow, and some sheep and goats, were also at first intended 
 to have been left by me, as an additional present to Van 
 Diemen's Land. But I soon altered my intention, from a 
 persuasion that the natives, incapable of entering into my 
 views of improving their country, would destroy them. 
 
 The morning of the 29th we had a dead calm, which 
 continued all day, and effectually prevented our sailing. I 
 therefore sent a party over to the east point of the bay, to 
 cut grass, and another, which I accompanied, to cut wood. 
 We had observed several of the natives sauntering along the 
 shore, which assured us that, though their consternation had 
 made them leave us so abruptly the day before, they were 
 convinced that we intended them no mischief, and were 
 desirous of renewing the intercourse. We had not been long 
 landed before about twenty of them, men and boys, joined 
 us, without expressing the least sign of fear and distrust. 
 One of this company was conspicuously deformed, but was 
 not more distinguishable by the hump on his back than by 
 the drollery of his gestures, and the seeming humour of his 
 speeches, which he was very fond of exhibiting, as we sup- 
 posed, for our entertainment. His language appeared to rne 
 to be different from that spoken by the inhabitants of the 
 more northern parts of this country, whom I met with in my 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 263 
 
 first voyage, which is not extraordinary, since those we 
 now saw and those we then visited differ in many other 
 respects. 
 
 Some of our present group wore round their necks three 
 or four loose folds of small cord, made of the fur of some 
 animal, and others of them had a narrow slip of the kangaroo 
 skin tied round their ankles. I gave to each of them a string 
 of beads and a medal, which they appeared to receive with 
 some satisfaction. They seemed to set no value on iron, or 
 iron tools, and were even ignorant of the use of fish-hooks, if 
 we might judge of their manner of looking at some of ours, 
 which we showed to them, though it is certain they derive no 
 inconsiderable part of their subsistence from the sea. We 
 saw, however, no vessels in which they could go on the water. 
 Their habitations were little sheds or hovels, built of sticks 
 and covered with bark. After staying about an hour with the 
 wooding party and the natives, I went over to the grass- 
 cutters. Having seen the boats loaded, I returned on board 
 to dinner, and some time after was joined by Lieutenant King. 
 From him I learnt that soon after my departure several 
 women and children made their appearance. These females 
 wore a kangaroo skin tied over the shoulders and round the 
 waist, apparently to support their children when carried on 
 their backs, for in all other respects they were as naked as 
 the men, and had their bodies tattooed in the same manner. 
 They differed from the men in that as some of them had 
 their heads completely shorn, in others this operation had 
 been performed only on one side, while the rest of them had 
 all the upper part of the head shorn close, leaving a circle of 
 hair all round, somewhat like the tonsure of Romish priests. 
 Many of the children had fine features and were thought 
 pretty, but the same cannot be said of the persons of the 
 women, especially those advanced in years. 
 
 Mr. Anderson, with his usual diligence, spent the few days 
 we remained in Adventure Bay in examining the country. 
 The only animal of the quadruped kind we got was a sort of 
 opossum, about twice the size of a large rat. It is of a dusky 
 colour above, tinged with a brown or rusty cast, and whitish 
 
264 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 below. About a third of the tail towards its tip is white, and 
 bare underneath, by which it probably hangs on the branches 
 of trees in its search for berries. The kangaroo, without 
 doubt, is a native of this island, as the people we met with 
 had some pieces of their skins ; and we several times saw an 
 animal, though indistinctly, in the woods, which, from its size, 
 could be no other. 
 
 In the woods, the principal sorts of birds are large brown 
 hawks, or eagles, crows, nearly the same as ours in England, 
 yellowish parroquets, and large pigeons ; there are also three 
 or four small birds, (jne of which is of the thrush kind. On 
 the shore were several common sea-gulls, a few black oyster- 
 catchers, or sea-pies, and a pretty plover, of a stone colour, 
 with a black hood. About the lake, behind the beach, a few 
 wild ducks were seen, and some shags used to perch upon 
 the high leafless trees near the shore. The sea affords a more 
 plentiful supply to the inhabitants, and at least as great a 
 variety as the land. Of these, the elephant fish are the most 
 numerous, and though inferior to many other fish, were very 
 palatable food. Superior in quality to the elephant fish was 
 a sort partaking of the nature both of a round and a flat 
 fish, having the eyes placed very near each other, the fore 
 part of the body very much flattened or depressed, and the 
 rest rounded. It is of a brownish- sandy colour, with rusty 
 spots on the upper part and below. From the quantity ot 
 slime it was always covered with, it seems to live after the 
 manner of flat fish at the bottom. Upon the rocks are plenty 
 of muscles and some other small shell-fish. There are also 
 great numbers of sea-stars, some small limpets, and large 
 quantities of sponge, one sort of which thrives on shore by 
 the sea, and has a most delicate texture. Among the insects are 
 grasshoppers, butterflies, and several sorts of small moths, 
 finely variegated. There are two sorts of dragon-flies, gad- 
 flies, camel-flies, several sorts of spiders, and some scorpions, 
 but the last are rather rare. The most troublesome, though 
 not very numerous tribe of insects, are the mosquitoes, and a 
 large black ant, the pain of whose bite, while it lasts, is almost 
 intolerable. 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 265 
 
 The inhabitants whom we met with here had httle of that 
 fierce and wild appearance common to people in their 
 situation, but on the contrary seemed mild and cheerful, 
 without reserve or jealousy of strangers. With respect to 
 their personal activity or mental capacity, they do not seem 
 to possess the first in any remarkable degree ; and as for 
 the latter, they have apparently less than even the half- 
 animated inhabitants of Terra del Fuego, who have not 
 invention sufficient to make clothing for defending them- 
 selves from the rigour of the climate, though furnished with 
 the materials. Their colour is a dull black, and not quite so 
 deep as that of the African negro. Their hair, however, is 
 perfectly woolly, and is clotted or divided into small parcels, 
 like that of the Hottentots, with the use of some sort of 
 grease, mixed with a red paint or ochre, which they smear in 
 great abundance over their heads. Their noses, though not 
 flat, are broad and full ; their eyes are of a middling size, 
 with the white less clear than in us, and though not remark- 
 ably quick or piercing, such as give a frank, cheerful cast to 
 the whole countenance. Their mouths are rather wide, and 
 they wear their beards long, and clotted with paint in the 
 same manner as the hair on their heads. 
 
 At eight o'clock in the morning of the 30th of January, a 
 light breeze springing up at west, we weighed anchor and 
 put to sea from Adventure Bay. We pursued our course to 
 the eastward, without meeting with anything worthy of note, 
 till the night of the 6th of February, when a marine belonging 
 to the Discovery fell overboard, and was never seen after- 
 wards. 
 
 On the loth of February, at four in the afternoon, we dis- 
 covered the land of New Zealand ; and soon after came to 
 an anchor in Queen Charlotte's Sound. Here several canoes 
 filled with natives came alongside of the ships ; but very few 
 of them would venture on board, which appeared the more 
 extraordinary as I was well known by them all. There was 
 one man in particular among them whom I had treated with 
 remarkable kindness during the whole of my stay when I was 
 last there. Yet now, neither professions of friendship nor 
 
266 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 presents would prevail upon him to come into the ship. This 
 shyness was to be accounted for only on the supposition that 
 they were apprehensive we had revisited their country in 
 order to revenge the death of Captain Furneaux's people. 
 
 On the 13th we set up two tents, one from each ship, 
 on the same spot we had pitched them formerly. The obser- 
 vatories were at the same time erected, and Messrs. King and 
 Bayley began their operations immediately. During the 
 course of this day a great number of famiHes came from 
 different parts of the coast, and took up their residence close 
 to us ; so that there was not a spot in the cove, where a hut 
 could be put up, that was not occupied by them, except the 
 place where we had fixed our encampment. It is curious to 
 observe with what facility they build their little huts. I have 
 seen above twenty of them erected on a spot of ground, that not 
 an hour before was covered with shrubs and plants. They 
 generally bring some part of the materials with them, and 
 the rest they find upon the spot. 
 
 Besides the natives who took up their abode close to us, 
 we were occasionally visited by others whose residence was 
 not far off ; and by some who lived more remote. Their ar- 
 ticles of commerce were curiosities and fish, which came to a 
 good market. The seamen, however, had taken a kind of dis- 
 like to these people, and were either unwilling or -afraid to 
 associate with them, which produced this good effect, that I 
 knew no instance of a man's quitting his station to go to their 
 habitations. Amongst our occasional visitors was a chief 
 named Kahoora, who, as I was informed, headed the party 
 that cut off Captain Furneaux's people, and himself killed 
 Mr. Rowe, the officer who commanded. To judge of the 
 character of Kahoora, by what I had heard from many of 
 his countrymen, he seemed to be more feared than beloved 
 among them. Not satisfied with telling me that he was a 
 very bad man, some of them even importuned me to kill 
 him ; and I believe they were not a little surprised that I did 
 not listen to them, for, according to their ideas of equit}^, this 
 ought to have been done. If I had followed the advice of 
 ^11 our pretended friends, I might have extirpated the whole 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 267 
 
 race, for the people of each hamlet or village by turns 
 applied to me to destroy the other. 
 
 At daybreak on the i6th I set out with a party of men in 
 five boats, to collect food for our cattle. Captain Gierke, 
 and several of the officers, also Omai, and two of the natives, 
 accompanied me. We proceeded about three leagues up 
 the sound and then landed on the east side, at a place where 
 I had formerly been. Here we cut as much grass as loaded 
 the two launches. As we returned down the Sound, we 
 visited Grass Gove, memorable as the scene of the massacre 
 of Gaptain Furneaux's people. Whilst we were at this 
 place our curiosity prompted us to inquire into the cir- 
 cumstances attending the melancholy fate of our country- 
 men, and Omai was made use of as interpreter for 
 this purpose. The natives present answered all the 
 questions that were put to them' on the subject without 
 reserve, and like men who are under no dread of punish- 
 ment for a crime of which they are not guilty ; for we 
 already knew that none of them had been concerned in the 
 unhappy transaction. They told us, that while our people 
 were sitting at dinner, surrounded by several of the natives, 
 some of the latter stole, or snatched from them, some bread 
 and fish, for which they were beaten. This being resented, 
 a quarrel ensued, and two New Zealanders were shot dead, 
 by the only two muskets that were fired ; but before our 
 people had time to discharge a third, or to load again those 
 that had been fired, the natives rushed in upon them, over- 
 powered them with their numbers, and put them all to death. 
 We stayed here till the evening, when, having loaded the rest 
 of the boats with grass, celery, and scurvy-grass, we em- 
 barked to return to the ships, where some of the boats did 
 not arrive till one o'clock the next morning ; and it was 
 fortunate that they got on board then, for it afterwards blew 
 a perfect storm. In the evening the gale ceased, and the 
 wind having veered to the east, brought with it fair weather. 
 
 By this time more than two-thirds of the inhabitants of the 
 Sound had settled themselves about us. Great numbers of 
 them daily frequented the ships while our people were busy 
 
268 COOK'S voyages: 
 
 melting some seal-blubber. No Greenlander was ever fonder 
 of train-oil than our friends here seemed to be. They 
 relished the very skimmings of the kettle, but a little of 
 the pure stinking oil was a delicious feast. Having got on 
 board as much hay and grass as we judged sufficient to 
 serve the cattle till our arrival at Otaheite, and having com- 
 pleted the wood and water of both ships, on the 24th of 
 February we weighed anchor and stood out of the cove. 
 While we were unmooring and getting under sail, many of 
 the natives came to take their leave of us, or rather to 
 obtain, if they could, some additional presents from us 
 before our departure. Accordingly, I gave to two of their 
 chiefs, two pigs, a boar, and a sow. They made me a pro- 
 mise not to kill them, though I must own I put no great 
 faith in this. The animals which Captain Furneaux sent 
 on shore here, and which soon after fell into the hands of 
 the natives, I was now told were all dead ; but I was after- 
 wards informed that Tiratou, a chief, had a great many cocks 
 and hens in his possession and one of the sows. 
 
 We had not been long at anchor near Motuara before 
 three or four canoes, filled with natives, came off" to us from 
 the south-east side of the Sound, and a brisk trade was 
 carried on with them for the curiosities of this place. In 
 one of these canoes was Kahoora. This was the third time 
 he had visited us without betraying the smallest appearance 
 of fear. Next morning, he returned again with his whole 
 family — men, women, and children to the number of twenty 
 and upwards. Omai was the first who acquainted me with 
 his being alongside the ship, and desired to know if he 
 should ask him to come on board. I told him he might, 
 and accordingly he introduced the chief into the cabin, 
 saying, "There is Kahoora; kill him!" He afterwards 
 expostulated with me very earnestly. "Why do you not 
 kill him ? You tell me if a man kills another in England 
 that he is hanged for it. This man has killed ten, and yet 
 you will not kill him, though many of his countrymen desire 
 it, and it would be very good." Omai's arguments, though 
 specious enough, having no weight with me, I desired him 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 269 
 
 to ask the chief why he had killed Captain Furneaux's people. 
 At this question Kahoora folded his arms, hung down his 
 head, and looked like one caught in a trap, and I firmly 
 believe he expected instant death ; but no sooner was he 
 assured of his safety than he became cheerful. He did not, 
 however, seem willing to give me an answer to the question 
 that had been put to him till I had again and again repeated 
 my promise that he should not be hurt. Then he ventured 
 to tell us that one of his countrymen having brought a stone 
 hatchet to barter, the man to whom it was offered, took it, 
 and would neither return it nor give up anything for it, on 
 which the owner of it snatched up the bread as an equiva- 
 lent, and then the quarrel began. 
 
 For some tim'e before we arrived at New Zealand, Omai 
 had expressed a desire to take one of the natives with him to 
 his own country. We had not been there many days before 
 a youth, about seventeen or eighteen years of age, named 
 Taweiharooa, offered to accompany him. Finding that he 
 was fixed in his resolution to go with us, and having learnt 
 that he was the only son of a deceased chief, I told his 
 mother that in all probability he never would return ; but 
 this made no impression on either, for when she returned 
 the next morning, to take her last farewell of him, all the 
 time she was on board she remained quite cheerful, and 
 went away wholly unconcerned. Another youth, about ten 
 years of age, accompanied him as a servant, named Kokoa ; 
 he was presented to me by his own father, who stripped him, 
 and left him naked as he was born ; indeed, he seemed to 
 part with him with perfect indifference. 
 
 From my own observations, and from the information of 
 Taweiharooa and others, it appears to me that the New 
 Zealanders must live under perpetual apprehension of being 
 destroyed by each other, there being few of their tribes that 
 have not, as they think, sustained wrongs from some other 
 tribe, which they are continually upon the watch to revenge. 
 A New Zealander is never off his guard either by night or 
 by day ; indeed, no one can have more powerful motives to 
 be vigilant, for, according to their system of belief, the soul 
 
2;o COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 of the man whose flesh is devoured by the enemy is doomed 
 to a perpetual fire ; whilst the soul of the man whose body 
 has been rescued from those who killed him, as well as the 
 souls of all who die a natural death, ascend to the habitations 
 of the gods. 
 
 Polygamy is allowed amongst these people, and it is not 
 uncommon for a man to have two or three wives. The 
 women are marriageable at a very early age ; and it would 
 appear that one who is unmarried is but in a forlorn state. 
 Their public contentions are frequent, or rather perpetual ; 
 for it appears from their number of weapons and dexterity in 
 using them, that war is their principal profession. Before 
 they begin the onset they join in a war-song, to which they all 
 keep exactest time, and soon raise their passions to a degree of 
 frantic fury, attended with the most horrid distortion of the 
 eyes, mouths, and tongues, to strike terror into their enemies, 
 which makes them appear to those who have not been 
 accustomed to such a practice more like demons than men, 
 and would almost chill the boldest with fear. After the 
 battle succeed the horrid orgies of cannibalism, when, after 
 cutting in pieces, even while yet alive, the bodies of their 
 enemies, and dressing them on a fire, they devour the flesh, 
 not only without reluctance, but with peculiar satisfaction. 
 
 On the 25th of February we sailed from New Zealand, and 
 had no sooner lost sight of the land than our two young 
 adventurers repented heartily of the step they had taken. 
 All the soothing encouragement we could think of availed 
 but little. They wept both in public and private, and made 
 their lamentations in a kind of song, which was expressive of 
 the praises of their country. Thus they continued for many 
 days ; but at length their native country and their friends 
 were forgotten, and they appeared to be as firmly attached 
 to us as if they had been born amongst us. 
 
 On the 29th of March, as we were standing to the north- 
 east, the Discovery made the signal of seeing land, which we 
 soon discovered to be an island of no great extent. On ap- 
 proaching the shore, we could perceive with our glasses that 
 several of the natives were armed with long spears and clubs, 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. :;! 
 
 which they brandished in the air with signs of threatening 
 or, as some on board interpreted their attitudes, with invi- 
 tations to land. Most of them appeared naked, except? 
 having a sort of girdle, which, being brought up between the 
 thighs, covered that part of the body. But some of them 
 had pieces of cloth of different colours, white, striped, or 
 chequered, which they wore as a garment thrown about their 
 shoulders, and almost all of them had a white wrapper about 
 their heads, not unlike a turban. They were of a tawny 
 colour, and of a middling stature. At this time a small 
 canoe was launched in a great hurry from the further end of 
 the beach, and putting off with two men, paddled towards 
 us, when I brought to. They stopped short, however, as if 
 afraid to approach, until Omai, who addressed them in the 
 Otaheitean language, in some measure quieted their appre- 
 hensions. They then came near enough to take some beads 
 and nails, which were tied to a piece of wood and thrown 
 into the canoe. Omai, perhaps improperly, put the question 
 to them, whether they ever ate human flesh ? which they 
 answered in the negative with a mixture of indignation and 
 abhorrence. One of them, whose name was Mourooa, being 
 asked how he came by a scar on his forehead, told us that it 
 was the consequence of a wound he had got in fighting with 
 the people of an island, which lies to the north-eastward, who 
 sometimes came to invade their country. They afterwards 
 took hold of a rope, but still would net venture on board. 
 
 Mourooa was lusty and well made, but not very tall. His 
 features were agreeable, and his disposition seemingly no less 
 so, for he made several droll gesticulations which indicated 
 both good-nature and a share of humour. His colour was 
 nearly of the same cast with that common to the people of 
 Southern Europe. The other man was not so handsome. 
 Both of them had strong straight hair of a jet colour, tied 
 together on the crown of the head with a bit of cloth. They 
 wore girdles of a substance made from the Mortis papyrifera, 
 in the same manner as at the other islands of this ocean. 
 They had on a kind of sandals made of a grassy substance 
 interwoven, and as supposed, intended to defend their feet 
 
272 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 from the rough coral rock. Their beards were long, and 
 the inside of their arms, from the shoulders to the elbows, 
 and some other parts, were punctured or tattooed after the 
 manner of the inhabitants of almost all the other islands in 
 the South Sea. The lobe of their ears was slit to such a 
 length, that one of them stuck there a knife and some beads 
 which he had received from us, and the same person had 
 two polished pearl shells, and a bunch of human hair, loosely- 
 twisted, hanging about his neck, which was the only ornament 
 we observed. The canoe they came in was not above lo feet 
 long, and very narrow, but both strong and neatly made. 
 They paddled either end of it forward indifferently. 
 
 We now stood off and on, and as soon as the ships were 
 in a proper station, I ordered two boats to sound the coast, 
 and endeavour to find a landing-place. With this view I 
 went in one of them myself, taking with me such articles to 
 give the natives as I thought might serve to gain their good- 
 will. I had no sooner put off from the ship, than the canoe 
 with the two men, which had not left us long before, paddled 
 towards my boat, and having come alongside, Mourooa 
 stepped into her without being asked and without a moment's 
 hesitation. Omai, who was with me, was ordered to inquire 
 of him where we could land, and he directed us to two different 
 places. But I saw, with regret, that the attempt could not be 
 made at either place, unless at the risk of having our boats 
 filled wdth water, or even staved to pieces. Nor were we 
 more fortunate in our search for an anchorage, as we could 
 find no bottom till within a cable's length of the breakers. 
 
 While we were thus employed in reconnoitring the shore, 
 great numbers of the natives thronged down upon the reef, 
 all armed. Mourooa, who was in my boat, probably thinking 
 that this warlike appearance hindered us from landing, ordered 
 them to retire back. As many of them complied I judged 
 he must be a person of some consequence among them; 
 indeed, if we understood him right, he was the king's brother. 
 So great was the curiosity of several of the natives that they 
 took to the water, and, swimming off to the boats, came on 
 board them without reserve. Nay, we found it difficult to 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 273 
 
 keep them out, and still more difficult to prevent them carry- 
 ing off everything they could lay their hands upon. At 
 length, when they perceived that we were returning to the 
 ships, they all left us, except our original visitor, Mourooa ; 
 he, though not without evident signs of fear, kept his place in 
 my boat, and accompanied me on board the ship. 
 
 The cattle and other new objects that presented themselves 
 to our visitor, did not strike him with much surprise. Perhaps 
 his mind was too much taken up about his own safety to 
 allow him to attend to other things. I could get but little 
 information from him, and therefore, after he had made a 
 short stay, I ordered a boat to carry him in toward the land. 
 As soon as he got out of the cabin he happened to stumble 
 over one of the goats. His curiosity now overcoming, his fear, 
 he stopped, looked at it, and asked Omai what bird this was, 
 and not receiving an immediate answer from him, he repeated 
 the question to some of the people upon deck. The boat 
 having conveyed him pretty near to the surf, he leaped into 
 the sea and swam ashore. He had no sooner landed than a 
 multitude of his countrymen gathered round him as if in 
 eager curiosity to learn from him what he had seen, and in 
 this situation remained when we lost sight of them. 
 
 After leaving Mangeea, as this island was called, on the 
 afternoon of the 30th of March, we continued our course north- 
 ward all that night and till noon on the 31st, when we again 
 saw land in the direction of north-east by north, distant eight 
 or ten leagues, and next morning we got abreast of its north 
 end. I sent three armed boats to look for anchoring ground 
 and a landing-place. In the meantime we worked up under 
 the island with the ships. Just as the boats were putting off, 
 we observed several single canoes coming from the shore. 
 They first went to the Discovery^ she being the nearest 
 ship ; and soon after, three of the canoes came alongside the 
 Resohttion, each conducted by one man. They are long and 
 narrow, and supported by outriggers. Some knives, beads, 
 and other trifles were conveyed to our visitors, who gave us 
 a few cocoa-nuts upon our asking for them, though they did 
 not part with them by way of exchange for what they had 
 
274 COOICS VOYAGES. 
 
 received from us, for they seemed to have no idea of barter- 
 ing, nor did they appear to estimate any of our presents at a 
 high rate. With a Httle persuasion one of them came on 
 board, and the other two, encouraged by his example, soon 
 followed him. Their whole behaviour denoted that they 
 were quite at ease. 
 
 After their departure another canoe arrived, conducted by 
 a man who brought a bunch of plantains specially as a 
 present to me, for whom he asked by name, which he had 
 learnt from Omai, who was sent before us in a boat with 
 Mr. Gore. In return for this civility I gave him an axe and 
 a piece of red cloth, when he paddled back to the shore well 
 satisfied. I afterwards understood from Omai that this 
 present was sent from the king or principal chief of the 
 island. Not long after, a double canoe, in which were twelve 
 men, came towards us, who, as they drew near the ship, 
 recited some words in concert, by way of chorus, one of 
 their number first standing up, and giving the word before 
 each repetition. When they had finished their solemn 
 chant, they came alongside and asked for the chief. As 
 soon as I showed myself, a pig and a few cocoa-nuts were 
 conveyed up into the ship, and the principal person in the 
 canoe made me an additional present of a piece of matting. 
 Our visitors were conducted into the cabin and to other 
 parts of the ship, where some objects seemed to strike them 
 with a degree of surprise, though nothing fixed their atten- 
 tion for a moment. They were afraid to come near the cows 
 and horses, nor did they form the least conception of their 
 nature. But the sheep and goats did not surpass the limits 
 of their understanding, for they gave us to understand that 
 they knew them to be birds. I made a present to my new 
 friend of what I thought would be most acceptable to him, 
 but on his going away he seemed rather disappointed than 
 pleased. I afterwards understood that he was very desirous 
 of obtaining a dog, of which animal this island could not 
 boast. ♦ 
 
 The people in these canoes were, in general, of a middling 
 size, and not unlike those of Mangeea, though several were 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 275 
 
 of a blacker cast than any we saw there. Their features 
 were various, and some of the young men rather handsome. 
 Like those of Mangeea, they had girdles of glazed cloth, or 
 fine matting, the ends of which, being brought betwixt the 
 thighs, covered the adjoining parts. Ornaments composed 
 of a sort of broad grass, stained with red, and stmng with 
 berries of the nightshade, were worn round their necks. 
 Their ears were bored but not slit, and they were punctured 
 upon their legs, from the knee to the heel, which made them 
 appear as though they wore a kind of boots. Their behaviour 
 was frank and cheerful, with a great deal of good-nature. 
 Soon after daybreak we saw some canoes coming off to the 
 ships, and one of them directed its course to the Resolution. 
 In it was a hog, with some plantains and cocoa-nuts, for 
 which the people who brought them demanded a dog, and 
 refused every other thing that we offered in exchange. To 
 gratify these people Omai parted with a favourite dog he 
 had brought from England, and with this acquisition they 
 departed highly satisfied. 
 
 I despatched Lieut. Gore with three boats, two from the 
 Resoltction and one from the Discovery. Two of the natives, 
 who had been on board, accompanied him, and also Omai, 
 who went in his boat as interpreter. The ships being a full 
 league from the island when the boats put off, it was noon 
 before we could work up to it. We then perceived a pro- 
 digious number of the natives abreast of the boats. In order 
 to observe their motions, and to be ready to give such 
 assistance as our people might want, I kept as near the 
 shore as was prudent. Some of the islanders now and then 
 came off to the ships in their canoes, with a few cocoa-nuts, 
 which they exchanged for anything that was offered to them. 
 These occasional visits served to lessen my solicitude about 
 the people who had landed, for though we could get no 
 information from our visitors, yet their venturing on board 
 seemed to imply that their countrymen on shore had not 
 made an improper use of the confidence placed in them. 
 At length, a little before sunset, we had the satisfaction of 
 seeing the boats put off. When they got on board, I found 
 
276 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 that Mr. Gore himself, Omai, Mr. Anderson, and Mr. Burney, 
 were the only persons who had landed. 
 
 Omai was Mr. Gore's interpreter ; but that was not the 
 only service he performed this day, for being asked by the 
 natives a great many questions concerning us, his answers, 
 according to the account he gave me, were not a little 
 marvellous ; for instance, he told them that our country had 
 ships as large as their island, on board which were instru- 
 ments of war of such dimensions, that several people might 
 sit within them ; and that one of these was sufficient to crush 
 the whole island at one shot. This led them to inquire what 
 sort of guns we actually had in our two ships. He said that 
 though they were but small, in comparison with those he had 
 just described, yet, with such as they were, we could, with 
 the greatest ease, and at the distance the ships were from the 
 shore, destroy the island and kill every soul in it. They 
 persevered in their inquiries regarding the means by which 
 this could be done, and Omai explained the matter as well 
 as he could. He happened luckily to have a few cartridges 
 in his pocket, which were produced ; the balls and the gun- 
 powder were submitted to inspection, and to supply the de- 
 fects of his description. In the centre of a circle formed by the 
 natives, the inconsiderable quantity of gunpowder, collected 
 from his cartridges, was properly disposed upon the ground, 
 and set alight by means of a bit of burning wood from the oven 
 where the dinner was dressing. The sudden blast, and loud 
 report, the mingled flame and smoke that instantly succeeded, 
 now filled the whole assembly with astonishment. They no 
 longer doubted the tremendous power of our weapons, and 
 gave full credit to all Omai had said. This probably induced 
 them to liberate the gentlemen, whom they, at first, appeared 
 inclined to detain. 
 
 Omai found three of his countrymen here, whose story 
 is an affecting one, as related by him. About twenty persons 
 had embarked on board a canoe at Otaheite, to cross over 
 to the neighbouring island, Ulietea. A violent contrary wind 
 arising, they could neither reach the latter nor get back to 
 the former. The intended passage being a very short one, 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. ±yj 
 
 their stock of provisions was very scanty, and soon exhausted. 
 The hardships they suffered, while driven along by the storm, 
 are not to be conceived, and they passed many days without 
 sustenance. Their numbers gradually diminished, until, 
 Avorn out by famine and fatigue, four only survived, when the 
 canoe upset ; however, they kept hanging by the side of the 
 vessel till Providence brought them in sight of the people of 
 this island, who immediately sent out canoes and brought 
 them ashore. Of the four one was since dead, but the three 
 survivors spoke highly of the treatment they here met with ; 
 and so well satisfied were they with their situation, that they 
 refused the offer made to them, at Omai's request, of giving 
 them a passage on board our ships, to restore them to their 
 native islands. This will serve to explain better than a 
 thousand conjectures, how the detached parts of the earth, 
 and in particular how the islands of the South Seas, may 
 have been first peopled, especially those that lie remote from 
 any inhabited continent, or from each other." 
 
 With a gentle breeze at east we got up with Wateeoo on 
 the 3rd of April, and I immediately despatched Mr. Gore 
 with two boats to endeavour to procure some food for our 
 cattle. As there seemed to be no inhabitants here to obstruct 
 our taking away whatever we might think proper, our boats 
 no sooner reached the west side of the island than they 
 ventured in, and Mr. Gore and his party got safe on shore. 
 The supply obtained here consisted of about a hundred 
 cocoa-nuts for each ship ; we also got our cattle some grass, 
 and a quantity of the " wharra " tree, as it is called at 
 Otaheite. Though there were at this time no settled inhabi- 
 tants upon the island, indubitable marks remained of its 
 being at least occasionally frequented ; in particular, a few 
 empty huts were found, in one of which Mr. Gore left a 
 hatchet and some nails, to the value of what we took away. 
 
 As soon as the boats were hoisted in, I made sail again to 
 the northward. Although Hervey's Island, discovered in 
 1773, was not above fifteen leagues distant, yet we did not 
 sight it till daybreak in the morning. As we drew near it 
 we observed several canoes put off towards the ships, each 
 
278 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 containing from three to six men. They stopped at the 
 distance of about a stone's throw from the ship, and it was 
 some time before Omai could prevail upon them to come 
 alongside ; but no entreaties could induce any of them to 
 venture on board. Indeed, their disorderly and clamorous 
 behaviour by no means indicated a disposition to trust us or 
 treat us well. We afterwards learnt that they had attempted 
 to take some oars out of the Discovery's boat that lay along- 
 side, and struck a man who endeavoured to prevent them. 
 They also cut away, with a shell, a net with meat which 
 hung over the ship's stern, and absolutely refused to restore 
 it, though we afterwards purchased it of them. Those who 
 were about our ship behaved in the same daring manner. 
 At the same time they immediately showed a knowledge of 
 bartering, and sold some fish they had for small nails, of 
 which they were immoderately fond, and called them "goore." 
 They also caught with the greatest avidity bits of paper 
 or anything else that was thrown to them. These people 
 seemed to differ, as much in person as in disposition, from 
 the natives of Wateeoo, though the distance between the 
 two islands is not great. Their colour was of a deeper cast, 
 and several had a fierce, rugged aspect resembling the 
 natives of New Zealand. The polished shell of a pearl 
 oyster, hung about their neck, was the only personal decora- 
 tion that we observed amongst them, for not one of them 
 had adopted that mode of ornament, so generally prevalent 
 amongst the natives of this ocean, of puncturing or tattooing 
 their bodies. Though singular in this, we had the most 
 unequivocal proofs of their being of the same common race, 
 and their language approached still nearer to the dialect of 
 Otaheite than that of Wateeoo or Mangeea. 
 
 Having but very httle wind, it was one o'clock before we 
 drew near the north-west part of the island, when I sent 
 Lieutenant King, with two armed boats, to sound and recon- 
 noitre the coast, while the ships stood off and on. At three 
 o'clock the boats returned, and Mr. King informed me that 
 there was no anchorage for the ships, and that the boats could 
 only land on the outer edge of the reef, which lay about a 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 279 
 
 quarter of a mile from the dry land. He said that a mmiber 
 of the natives came down upon the reef, armed with long 
 pikes and clubs, but as he had no motive to land, he did not 
 give them an opportunity to use them. If I had been so 
 fortunate as to have procured a supply of water and of grass 
 at any of the islands we had lately visited, it was my inten- 
 tion to have stood back to the south till I had met with a 
 westerly wind. But the certain consequence of doing this 
 without such a supply would have been the loss of all the 
 cattle before we could possibly reach Otaheite, without gain- 
 ing one advantage with regard to the great object of our 
 voyage. I therefore determined to bear away for the Friendly 
 Islands, where I was sure of meeting with abundance of 
 everything I wanted. 
 
 On the 7th of April I steered west by south, with a fine 
 breeze easterly. I proposed to proceed first to Middleburgh, 
 or Eooa, thinking, if the wind continued favourable, that we 
 had food enough on board for the cattle to last till we should 
 reach that island; but about noon on the next day, those faint 
 breezes that had attended and retarded us so long, again 
 returned, and I found it necessary to haul more to the north, 
 to get into the latitude of Palmerston and Savage Islands, 
 discovered in 1774, during my last voyage, so that, if neces- 
 sity required it, we might have recourse to them. At length, 
 at daybreak on the 13th, we saw Palmerston Island, distant 
 about five leagues, though we did not reach it till eight o'clock 
 the next morning. I then sent four boats, with an officer in each 
 to search the coast for the most convenient landing-place. 
 
 The boats first examined the south-easternmost part, 
 and failing there, ran down to the east, where we had the 
 satisfaction of seeing them land. About one o'clock one of 
 the boats came on board, laden with scurvy-grass and young 
 cocoa-nut trees, which afforded a feast for the cattle. Before 
 evening I went ashore in a small boat, accompanied by 
 Captain Gierke, and landing in a small creek, found every- 
 body hard at work. Upon the bushes that front the sea, or 
 even farther in, we found a great number of men-of-war 
 birds, tropic birds, and two sorts of boobies, which, at this 
 
28o COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 time, were laying their eggs, and so tame that they suffered 
 us to take them off with our hands. 
 
 At one part of the reef, which looks into or bounds the lake 
 that is within, there was a large bed of coral, almost even 
 with the surface, which affords, perhaps, one of the most 
 enchanting prospects that nature has anywhere produced. 
 Its base was fixed to the shore, but reached so far in, that it 
 could not be seen, so that it seemed to be suspended in the 
 water, which deepened so suddenly, that, at the distance of a 
 few yards, there might be seven or eight fathoms. The sea 
 was, at this time, quite unruffled ; and the sun shining 
 brightly, exposed the various sorts of coral in the most beau- 
 tiful order. This scene was enlivened by numerous species 
 of fishes gliding along in apparent security. There were no 
 traces of inhabitants having ever been here, if we except a 
 small piece of a canoe that was found upon the beach, which 
 might have drifted from some other island. After the boats 
 were laden, I returned on board, leaving Mr. Gore with a 
 party to pass the night on shore, in order to be ready to 
 commence work early next morning. Next day was accord- 
 ingly spent, as the preceding one had been, in collecting food 
 for the cattle. Having secured a sufficient supply by sunset, 
 I ordered everybody on board, but there being little or no 
 wind, I determined to wait, and to employ the following day 
 in trying to get some cocoa-nuts from the next island, where 
 we could observe that those trees were in greater abundance 
 than where we had already landed. With this view, I went 
 with the boats to the west side of the island, and having 
 landed with little difficulty, immediately set the people to 
 gather cocoa-nuts, which we found in great abundance. 
 Omai, who was with me, caught with a scoop net, in a very 
 short time, as much fish as served the whole party on shore 
 for dinner, besides sending some to both ships. Here were 
 also great abundance of birds, particularly men-of-war and 
 tropic birds ; so that we fared sumptuously. Omai was of 
 the greatest use in these excursions, for he not only caught 
 the fish, but dressed them and the birds we killed in an oven 
 with heated stones, after the fashion of his country, with a 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 281 
 
 dexterity and good-humour that did him great credit. We 
 found this islet nearly a half larger than the other, and almost 
 entirely covered with cocoa-palms, so that we got there above 
 twelve hundred cocoa-nuts, which were equally divided 
 amongst the whole crew. 
 
 The nine or ten low islets, comprehended under the name 
 of Palmerston Island, may be reckoned the heads or sum- 
 mits of the reef of coral rocks that connects them together, 
 covered only with a thin coat of sand, yet clothed, as already 
 observed, with trees and plants. The heat, which had been 
 great for a month, became now much more disagreeable from 
 the close rainy weather, and, from the moisture attending it, 
 threatened soon to be noxious. However, it is remarkable 
 that though the only fresh provisions we had received since 
 leaving the Cape of Good Hope was that at New Zealand, 
 there was not a single person sick on board from the constant 
 use of salt food, or vicissitudes of climate. 
 
 In the night of the 24th of April we passed Savage Island, 
 which I had discovered in 1774. I steered for the south, and 
 then hauled up for Annamooka. It was no sooner daylight 
 than we were visited by six or seven canoes from different 
 islands, bringing with them, besides fruits and roots, two pigs, 
 several fowls, some large wood-pigeons, small rails, and large 
 violet-coloured coots. All these they exchanged with us for 
 beads, nails, hatchets, (S:c. They had also other articles of 
 commerce, but I ordered that no curiosities should be pur- 
 chased till the ships had been supplied with provisions, and 
 leave had been given for that purpose. Knowing also, from 
 experience, that if all our people traded with the natives 
 according to their own caprice, perpetual quarrels would 
 ensue, I ordered that particular persons should manage the 
 traffic both on board and on shore, prohibiting others to 
 interfere. Before mid-day, Mr. King, who had been sent to 
 Kamango, returned with seven hogs, some fowls, a quantity 
 of fruit and roots, and some grass for the cattle. His party 
 was very civilly treated at Kamango, the inhabitants of 
 which did not seem to be numerous. Their huts, which 
 stood close to each other within a plantain walk, were but 
 
282 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 indifferent, and not far from them was a pretty large pond of 
 fresh water, tolerably good, but there was no appearance of 
 any stream. The chief of the island, named Tooboulangee, 
 and another, whose name was Taipa, came on board with 
 Mr. King. They brought with them a hog as a present to 
 me, promising more the next day, and they kept their word. 
 
 I now resumed the very same station which I had occupied 
 when I visited Annamooka three years before, and probably 
 almost in the same place where Tasman, the first discoverer 
 of this and some of the neighbouring islands, anchored in 
 1643. The following day I went ashore, accompanied by 
 Captain Gierke. Toobou, the chief of the island, conducted 
 me and Omai to his house, which we found situated on a 
 pleasant spot in the centre of his plantations. While we 
 were on shore we procured a few hogs and some fruit by 
 bartering, and before we got on board again, the ships were 
 crowded with the natives; few of them coming empty- 
 handed, every sort of provision was now plentiful. I landed 
 again in the afternoon with a party of marines ; and, at the 
 same time, the horses and such of the cattle as were in a 
 sickly state were sent on shore. Everything being settled to 
 my satisfaction, I returned to the ship at sunset, leaving the 
 command upon the island to Mr. King. Next day. May 3rd, 
 our various operations on shore began. In the evening, 
 before the natives retired from our post, Taipa harangued 
 them for some time. We could only guess at the subject, 
 and judged that he was instmcting them how to behave 
 towards us, and encouraging them to bring the produce of 
 the island to market, for on the following day we experienced 
 the good effects of his eloquence in the plentiful supply of 
 provisions we received. 
 
 On the 6th we were visited by a great chief from Tonga- 
 taboo, whose name was Feenou, and whom Taipa introduced 
 to us as king of all the Friendly Isles. All the natives made 
 their obeisance to him by bowing their heads as low as his 
 feet, the soles of which they also touched with each hand, 
 first with the palm and then with the back part ; and there 
 would be little room to suspect that a person received with 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 283 
 
 so much respect could be anything less than the king. In 
 the afternoon I went to pay this great man a visit, having 
 first received a present of two fish from him, brought on 
 board by one of his servants. As soon as I landed he came 
 up to me, and appeared to be about thirty years of age, tall, 
 but thin, with more of the European cast of features than 
 any I had yet seen here. After a short stay, our new visitor 
 and five or six of his attendants accompanied me on board. 
 I gave suitable presents to them all, and entertained them in 
 such a manner as I thought would be most agreeable. In 
 the evening I attended them on shore in my boat, into which 
 the chief ordered three hogs to be put, as a return for the 
 presents he had received from me. 
 
 The first day of our arrival at Annamooka, one of the 
 natives had stolen out of the ship a large junk axe ; I now 
 apphed to Feenou, who was my guest on the 8th, to exert his 
 authority to get it restored to me, and so implicitly was he 
 obeyed, that it was brought on board while we were at dinner. 
 These people gave us very frequent opportunities of remark- 
 ing what expert thieves they were, and even some of the 
 chiefs did not refrain from stealing. On the lower class a 
 flogging seemed to make no greater impression than it would 
 have done upon the mainmast, and when any of them hap- 
 pened to be caught in the act, their superiors, far from inter- 
 ceding for them, would often advise us to kill them. As this 
 was a punishment we did not choose to inflict, they generally 
 escaped without any punishment, until Captain Gierke at 
 length hit upon a mode of treatment which appeared to 
 have some effect. He put them under the hands of the 
 barber, and completely shaved their heads, thus pointing 
 them out as objects of ridicule to their countrymen, and 
 enabling our people to deprive them of future opportunities 
 to repeat their rogueries, by keeping them at a distance. 
 
 Feenou, understanding that I meant to proceed directly to 
 Tongataboo, importuned me strongly to alter this plan, to 
 which he expressed as much aversion as if he had some par- 
 ticular interest to promote by diverting me from it. In 
 preference to it, he warmly recommended an island, or rather 
 
284 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 a group of islands, called Hapaee, lying to the north-east. 
 There, he assured us, we could be supplied plentifully with 
 provisions, in the easiest manner ; and to add weight to 
 his advice, he engaged to attend us thither in person. He 
 carried his point, and Hapaee was made choice of for our 
 next station ; as it had never been visited by any European 
 ships, the examination of it became an object with me. 
 After some unimportant transactions, at daybreak, in the 
 morning of the i6th, we steered north-east for Hapaee, 
 which was now in sight. Next day we came to an anchor, and 
 the ships were soon filled with the natives. They brought 
 hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots, which they exchanged for 
 hatchets, knives, nails, beads, and cloth. I went on shore, 
 accompanied by Omai and Feenou, landing at the north 
 part of Lefooga, a little to the right of the ship's station. 
 The chief conducted me to a hut situated close to the sea- 
 beach, which I had seen brought thither, but a few moments 
 before, for our reception ; Feenou, Omai, and I seated our- 
 selves, while the other chiefs and the multitude formed a 
 circle on the outside, and also sat down. I was then asked 
 how long I intended to stay? On my replying five days, 
 Taipa was ordered to come and sit by me, and proclaim this 
 to the people. He then harangued them in a speech mostly 
 dictated by Feenou ; the purport of it, as I learned from 
 Omai, was, that they were all, both old and young, to look 
 upon me as a friend, who intended to remain with them a 
 few days ; 'that, during my stay, they must not steal any- 
 thing, or molest me in any other way ; and that it was expected 
 that they should bring hogs, fowls, fruits, &c., to the ships, 
 where they would receive in exchange for them such and such 
 articles, which he enumerated. Taipa then took occasion 
 to signify to me, that it was necessary I should make a 
 present to the chief of the island, whose name was Earoupa. 
 I was not unprepared for this ; and gave him some articles 
 that far exceeded his expectations. My liberahty brought on 
 me new demands, of the same kind, from the chiefs of other 
 isles who were present, and from Taipa himself. 
 
 After viewing the watering-place we returned to our former 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 285 
 
 station, where I found a baked hog and some yams, smoking 
 hot, ready to be carried on board for my dinner. I invited 
 Feenou and his friends to partake of it, and we embarked for 
 the ship, though none but himself sat down with us at the table. 
 After dinner I conducted them on shore, and before I re- 
 turned on board, the chief gave me a fine large turtle and a 
 quantity of yams. Our supply of provisions was copious, 
 for in the course of the day we got, by barter, alongside the 
 ship, about twenty small hogs, besides fruit and roots. Next 
 morning early, Feenou and Omai, who scarcely ever quitted 
 the chief, and now slept on shore, came on board. The 
 object of the visit was to require my presence upon the 
 island. I saw a large concourse of people already assembled, 
 and guessed that something more than ordinary was in agi- 
 tation, but could not tell what, nor could Omai inform me. 
 I had not long landed before a hundred of the natives 
 appeared in sight, and advanced laden with yams, bread- 
 fruit, plantains, cocoa-nuts, and sugar-canes. They deposited 
 their burthens in two piles, or heaps, on our left. Soon after 
 a number of others arrived, bearing the same kind of articles, 
 which were collected into two heaps on the right ; to these 
 were tied two pigs and six fowls, and to those on the left 
 six pigs and two turtles. As soon as this munificent collection 
 of provisions was laid down in order, and disposed to the 
 best advantage, the bearers of it joined the multitude, who 
 formed a large circle round the whole. Presently after a 
 number of men entered the circle, or area, before us, armed 
 with clubs, made of the green branches of the cocoa-nut tre^; 
 they paraded about for a few minutes, and then retired, one 
 half to one side and the other half to the other side, seating 
 themselves before the spectators. Soon after they successively 
 entered the lists, and entertained us with single combats : 
 one champion rising up and stepping forward from one side, 
 challenged those of the other side, by expressive gestures 
 more than by words, to send one of their body to oppose 
 him. If the challenge was accepted, which was generally 
 the case, the two combatants put themselves in proper 
 attitude, and then began the engagement, which continued 
 
286 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 till one or other owned himself conquered, or till their 
 weapons were broken. As soon as each combat was over the 
 victor squatted himself down, facing the chief, and then rose 
 up and retired. At the same time some old men, who 
 seemed to sit as judges, applauded them in a few words, 
 and the multitude, especially those on the side to which the 
 victor belonged, celebrated the glory he acquired in two or 
 three huzzas. 
 
 This entertainment was now and then suspended for a few 
 minutes, and during these intervals there were both wrestling 
 and boxing matches. The first were performed in the same 
 manner as at Otaheite, and the second differed very little 
 from the method practised in England. But what struck us 
 most with surprise was to see a couple of lusty wenches step 
 forth and begin boxing, without the least ceremony, and with 
 as much art as the men. This contest, however, did not 
 last above half a minute before one of them gave in ; the 
 conquering heroine received the same applause from the 
 spectators which they bestowed on the successful combatants 
 of the other sex. We expressed some dishke at this part of 
 the entertainment, which, however, did not prevent the other 
 females from entering the hsts. They appeared to be girls 
 of spirit, and would certainly have given each other a good 
 drubbing if the old women had not interposed between them. 
 All these combats were exhibited in the midst of at least 
 3,000 people, and were conducted with the greatest good 
 humour on all sides. 
 
 As soon as these diversions were ended, the chief told me 
 that the heaps of provisions on our right hand were a present 
 to Omai, and those on our left hand, being about two-thirds 
 of the whole quantity, were given to me. He added that I 
 might take them on board whenever it was convenient, but 
 that there would be no occasion to set any of our people as 
 guards over them, as I might be assured that not a single 
 cocoa-nut would be taken away by the natives. So it proved, 
 for I left everything behind, and returned to the ship to 
 dinner, carrying the chief with me ; and when the provisions 
 were removed on board in the afternoon, not a single article 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 287 
 
 was missing. There was as much as loaded two boats, and I 
 could not but be struck with the munificence of Feenou, for 
 this present far exceeded any I had ever received from any 
 of the sovereigns of the various islands I had visited in the 
 Pacific Ocean. I lost no time in convincing our friend that 
 I was not insensible of his liberality, for, before he quitted 
 the ship, I bestowed upon him such commodities as I guessed 
 were most valuable in his estimation. 
 
 Feenou had expressed a desire to see the marines go 
 through the military exercise ; and, as I was desirous of 
 gratifying his curiosity, I ordered them all ashore from both 
 ships in the morning. After they had performed various 
 evolutions and fired several volleys, with which the numerous 
 body of spectators seemed well pleased, the chief entertained 
 us, in his turn, with an exhibition which, as was acknowledged 
 by us all, was performed with a dexterity and exactness far 
 surpassing the specimen we had given of our different 
 manoeuvres. It was a kind of dance so entirely different 
 from anything I had ever seen, that I can give no description 
 that will convey any tolerable idea of it to my readers. It 
 was performed by men, and 105 persons took part in 
 it. Each of them had in his hand an instrument neatly 
 made, shaped somewhat like a paddle, two feet and a half in 
 length, with a small handle and a thin blade, so that they 
 were very light. With these instruments they made many 
 and various flourishes, each of which was accompanied with 
 a different movement. At first the performers ranged them- 
 selves in three lines, and by various evolutions each man 
 changed his station in such a manner, that those who had 
 been in the rear came to the front. Nor did they remain long 
 in the same position. At one time they extended themselves 
 in one line ; they then formed in a semicircle, and lastly in 
 two square columns. While this last movement was executing, 
 one of them advanced and performed an antic dance before 
 me, with which the whole ended. The musical instruments 
 consisted of two drums, or rather two hollow logs of wood, 
 from which some varied notes were produced by beating on 
 them with two sticks. It did not, however, appear to me 
 
288 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 that the dancers were much assisted by these sounds, but by 
 a chorus of vocal music, in which all the performers joined 
 at the same time. Their song was not destitute of pleasing 
 melody, and all their corresponding motions were executed 
 with so much skill, that the numerous body of dancers seemed 
 to act as if they were one great machine. It was the opinion 
 of every one of us, that such a performance would have met 
 with universal applause in a European theatre ; and it so 
 far exceeded any attempt we had made to entertain them, 
 that they seemed to pique themselves upon the superiority 
 they had over us. As to our musical instruments, they held 
 none of them in the least esteem, except the drum, and even 
 that they did not think equal to their own. 
 
 In order to give them a more favourable opinion of English 
 amusements, and to leave their minds fully impressed with 
 the deepest sense of our superior attainments, I directed 
 some fireworks to be got ready, and after it was dark played 
 them off in the presence of Feenou, the other chiefs, and a 
 vast concourse of their people. Our water and sky rockets, 
 in particular, pleased and astonished them beyond all con- 
 ception, and the scale was now turned in our favour. This, 
 however, seemed only to furnish them with an additional 
 motive to proceed to fresh exertions of their very singular 
 dexterity ; and our fireworks were no sooner ended, than a 
 succession of dances began. As a prelude to them, a band 
 of music or chorus of eighteen men seated themselves before 
 us in the centre of the circle. Four or five of this band had 
 pieces of large bamboo, from three to five or six feet long, 
 the upper end open, but the other end closed by one of the 
 joints. With this closed end the performers kept constantly 
 striking the ground, though slowly, thus producing different 
 notes, according to the different lengths of the instruments, 
 but all of them of the hollow or bass sort ; to counteract 
 which, a person kept striking quickly, and with two sticks, 
 a piece of the same substance, split and laid along the 
 ground, and by that means furnishing a tone as acute as 
 those produced by the others were grave. The rest of the 
 band, as well as those who performed upon the bamboo, ' 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 289 
 
 sang a slow and soft air^ which so tempered upon the harsher 
 notes of the above instrument, that no bystander, however 
 accustomed to hear the most perfect and varied modulation 
 of sweet sounds, could avoid confessing the vast power and 
 pleasing effect of this simple harmony. Soon after they had 
 finished, nine women exhibited themselves, and sat down 
 fronting the hut where the chief was. A man then rose and 
 struck the first of these women on the back with both fists 
 joined ; he proceeded in the same manner to the second and 
 third, but when he came to the fourth, whether from accident 
 or design, I cannot tell, instead of the back, he struck her 
 on the breast. Upon this a person rose instantly from the 
 crowd, who brought him to the ground with a blow on the 
 head, and he was carried off without the least noise or dis- 
 order. But this did not save the other five women from so 
 odd a ceremony ; for a person succeeded him, who treated 
 them in the same manner. Their disgrace did not end here, 
 for when they danced, they had the mortification to find their 
 performance twice disapproved of, and were obliged to 
 repeat it. 
 
 Curiosity on both sides being now sufficiently gratified by 
 the exhibition of the various entertainments I have described, 
 I began to have time to look about me. Accordingly next 
 day I took a walk into the island of Leefooga, of which I 
 was desirous to obtain some knowledge. I found it to be in 
 several respects superior to Annamooka. The plantations 
 were numerous and more extensive. We observed large 
 spots covered with the paper mulberry tree, and the planta- 
 tions in general were well stocked with such roots and fruits 
 as are the natural produce of the island. To these I made 
 some additions by sowing the seeds of Indian corn, melons, 
 pumpkins, and the like. The island is not above seven miles 
 long, and in some places not above two or three broad. The 
 east side of it, which is exposed to the trade-wind, has a 
 reef running a considerable distance from it, on which the 
 sea breaks with great violence. When I returned from my 
 excursions into the country, I found a large sailing canoe 
 fast to the ship's stern. In this canoe was Latooliboula 
 
 T 
 
290 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 whom I had seen at Tongataboo during my last voyage, and 
 who was then supposed by us to be king of that island. He 
 sat in the canoe with all the gravity by which he was so 
 remarkably distinguished at that time, nor could I, by any 
 entreaties, prevail upon him now to come into the ship. 
 Many of the islanders were present, and they all called him 
 Arekee, which signifies king. I had never heard any one 
 of them give this title to Feenou, however extensive his 
 authority over them, both here and at Annamooka, had 
 appeared to be, which had all along inclined me to suspect 
 that he was not the king, though his friend, Taipa, had taken 
 pains to make me believe he was. Feenou was on board my 
 ship at the same time, but neither of these great men took 
 the least notice of each other. 
 
 On the morning of the 23rd, as we were going to unmoor, 
 in order to leave the island, Feenou, and his prime minister, 
 Taipa, came alongside in a sailing canoe, and informed me 
 that they were setting out for Vavaoo, an island which they 
 said was about two days' sail to the northward of Hapaee. 
 The object of their voyage, they would have me believe, was 
 to get for me an additional supply of hogs, and some red- 
 feathered caps for Omai to carry to Otaheite, where they are 
 in high esteem. Feenou assured me that he should be back 
 in four or fiv^e days, and desired me not to sail till his return, 
 when he promised he would accompany me to Tongataboo. 
 I thought this a good opportunity to acquire some knowledge 
 of Vavaoo, and proposed to him to go thither with the ships ; 
 but he seemed not to approve of the plan, and, by way of 
 diverting me from it, told me that there was neither harbour 
 nor anchorage about it. I therefore consented to wait in my 
 present station until his return, and he immediately set out 
 
 In my walk on the 25th I happened to step into a house, 
 where I found a woman shaving a child's head with a shark's 
 tooth stuck into the end of a piece of stick. I observed that 
 she first wetted the hair with a rag dipped in water, applying 
 her instrument to that part which she had previously soaked. 
 The operation seemed to give no pain to the child, although 
 the hair was taken off as close as if one of our razors had 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 29 1 
 
 been employed. Encouraged by what I now saw, I soon 
 after tried one of those singular instruments upon myself, and 
 found it to be an excellent substitute. However, the men of 
 these islands have recourse to another contrivance when they 
 shave their beards. The operation is performed with two 
 shells, one of which they place under a small part of the 
 beard, and with the other, applied above, they scrape that 
 part off. In this manner they are able to shave very close. 
 The process is indeed rather tedious, but not painful, and 
 there are men amongst them who seem to profess the trade. 
 It was as common, while we were here, to see our sailors go 
 ashore to have their beards scraped off after the fashion of 
 Hapaee, as it was to see their chiefs come on board to be 
 shaved by our barbers. Finding that little or nothing of the 
 produce of the island was now brought to the ships, I resolved 
 to change our station, and in the afternoon of the 26th of 
 May, I hauled into a bay that lies between the south end 
 of Lefooga and the north end of Hoolaiva, and there 
 anchored. 
 
 About noon a large sailing canoe came under our stern, in 
 which was a person named Futtafaihe, or Poolaho, or both, 
 who, as the natives then on board told us, was king of 
 Tongataboo and all the neighbouring islands. It being my 
 interest, as well as my inclination, to pay court to all the 
 great men without making inquiry into the validity of their 
 assumed titles, I invited Poolaho on board. He brought with 
 him, as a present, two fat hogs, though not so fat as himself. 
 If weight of body could give weight in rank or power, he was 
 certainly the most eminent man in that respect we had seen. 
 I found him to be a sedate, sensible person. He viewed the 
 ship and the several new objects with uncommon attention, 
 and asked many pertinent questions ; one of which was, what 
 could induce us to visit these islands ? After he had satisfied 
 his curiosity in looking at the cattle and other novelties which 
 he met with on deck, I desired him to walk down into the 
 cabin. To this his attendants objected, saying, that if he 
 were to accept of the invitation, it must happen that people 
 would walk over his head ; but the chief himself, less scru- 
 
292 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 pulous in this respect than his attendants, waived all ceremony 
 and walked down. 
 
 Poolaho sat down with us to dinner, but he ate little and 
 drank less. When he arose from the table he desired me to 
 accompany him ashore. I attended him in my own boat, 
 having first made presents to him of such articles as I ob- 
 served he valued most, and were even beyond his expecta- 
 tion to receive. I was not disappointed in my view of thus 
 securing his friendship, for the moment the boat reached the 
 beach, he ordered two more hogs to be brought and deli- 
 vered to my people. He was then carried out of the boat 
 by some of his own people upon a board resembling a hand- 
 barrow, and went and seated himself in a small house near 
 the shore, which seemed to have been erected there for his 
 accommodation. He placed me at his side, and his attendants 
 seated themselves in a semicircle before us outside the house. 
 Behind the chief, or rather on one side, sat an old woman 
 with a sort of fan in her hand, whose office it was to prevent 
 his being pestered with the flies. I stayed till several of his 
 attendants left him, first making him obeisance by bowing 
 the head down to the sole of his foot, and touching or 
 tapping the same with the upper and under side of the 
 fingers of both hands. Others, who were not in the circle, 
 came, as it seemed, on purpose and paid him this mark of 
 respect, and then retired without speaking a word. I was 
 charmed with the decorum that was observed, and had 
 nowhere seen the like, not even among more civilised 
 nations. 
 
 Poolaho, the king, as I shall now call him, came on board 
 betimes next morning, and brought, as a present to me, one 
 of their caps, or rather bonnets, composed of the tail 
 feathers of the tropic bird, with the red feathers of the 
 parroquets wrought upon them or jointly with them. They 
 are made so as to tie upon the forehead, without any crown, 
 and have the form of a semicircle, whose radius is i8 or 
 20 inches. At daybreak the next morning I weighed with a 
 fine breeze, and stood to the westward with a view to return 
 . to Annamooka. We were followed by several sailing canoes, 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 293 
 
 in one of which was the king. He quitted us in a short 
 time, but left his brother and five of his attendants on board* 
 We had also the company of a chief, just then arrived from 
 Tongataboo, whose name was Tooboueitoa. The moment 
 he arrived he sent his canoe away, and declared that he and 
 five more who came with him would sleep on board ; so that 
 I had now my cabin filled with visitors. They brought 
 plenty of provisions with them, for which they always had 
 suitable returns. 
 
 In our course the ship was very near running full upon a 
 low sandy isle, called Pootoo. It happened very fortunately 
 that the people had just before been ordered upon deck, to 
 pu't the ship about, so that the necessary movements were 
 executed with judgment and alertness, which thus alone 
 saved us from destruction. The Discovery^ being astern, 
 was out of danger. Such hazardous situations are the 
 unavoidable accompaniments of a voyage of discovery. This 
 circumstance frightened our passengers so much that they 
 expressed a strong desire to get ashore. Accordingly, as 
 soon as daylight returned, I hoisted out a boat, and ordered 
 the officer who commanded her, after landing them at 
 Kootoo, to sound along the reef for anchorage. Having met 
 with a convenient station, we lay there until the 4th, when 
 we weighed, and stood for Annamooka, where we anchored 
 next morning. I went on shore soon after, and found the 
 inhabitants very busy in digging up yams to bring to market. 
 These were now in the greatest perfection, and we procured 
 a good quantity in exchange for pieces of iron. 
 
 About noon next day, Feenou arrived from Vavaoo. He 
 told us that several canoes, laden with hogs and other pro- 
 visions, which had sailed with him from that island, had been 
 lost, owing to the late stormy weather, and that everybody 
 on board perished. This melancholy tale did not seem to 
 affect any of his countrymen that heard it ; and as to our- 
 selves, we were by this time too well acquainted with his 
 character to give much credit to such a story. The following 
 morning, Poolaho and the other chiefs, who had been wind- 
 bound with him, arrived. I happened at this time to be 
 
294 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 ashore, in company with Feenou, who now seemed to be 
 sensible of the impropriety of his conduct in assuming a 
 character that did not belong to him. I left him to visit 
 this greater man, whom I found sitting with a few people be- 
 fore him ; but, as every one hastened to pay court to him, 
 the circle increased pretty fast. I had the most convincing 
 proof of Feenou's inferiority, for he placed himself amongst 
 the rest that sat before Poolaho, as attendant on his majesty. 
 Both he and Poolaho went on board with me to dinner, 
 but only the latter sat at table. Feenou, having made his 
 obeisance in the usual way, saluting his sovereign's foot 
 with his head and hands, retired out of the cabin. The 
 king had before told us that this would happen, and it now 
 appeared that Feenou could not eat or drink in his royal 
 presence. 
 
 At eight o'clock the next morning we steered for Tongata- 
 boo, having a gentle breeze at north-east. About fourteen or 
 fifteen sailing vessels, belonging to the natives, set out with 
 us, but every one of them outsailed the ships considerably. 
 In the afternoon of the next day we came to an anchor off 
 that island, in a safe station, and soon after I landed, accom- 
 panied by Omai and some of the officers. We found the 
 king waiting for us upon the beach. He immediately con- 
 ducted us to a small neat house, situated a little within the 
 skirts of the woods, with a fine large area before it, which he 
 told me was at my service during our stay at this island, and 
 a better situation we could not wish for. We had not been 
 long in the house before a pretty large circle of the natives 
 were assembled before us. A root of the kava plant being 
 brought and laid down before the king, he ordered it to be 
 split into pieces and distributed to several people of both 
 sexes, who began the operation of chewing it, and a bowl of 
 their favourite liquor was soon prepared. In the meantime 
 a baked hog and two baskets of baked yams were produced, 
 and afterwards divided into ten portions ; these portions were 
 then given to certain people present, but how many were to 
 share in each I could not tell. The liquor was next served 
 put, but I observed that not a fourth part of the company had 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 295 
 
 tasted either the victuals or the drink. As I intended to 
 make some stay at Tongataboo, we pitched a tent in the 
 forenoon, just by the house which Poolaho had assigned for 
 our use. The horses, cattle, and sheep were afterwards 
 landed, and a party of marines, with their officer, stationed 
 there as a guard. The observatory was then set up at a 
 small distance from the other tent, and Mr. King resided on 
 shore to attend to the observations. The gunners were 
 ordered to conduct the traffic with the natives, who thronged 
 from every part of the island with hogs, yams, cocoa- 
 nuts, and other articles of their produce. In a short time 
 our landing-post was like a fair, and the ships were so 
 crowded with visitors that we had hardly room to stir upon 
 the decks. 
 
 Feenou had taken up his residence in our neighbourhood, 
 but he was no longer the leading man. However, we still 
 found him to be a person of consequence, and we had daily 
 proofs of his opulence and liberality, by the continuance of 
 his valuable presents. We now heard that there were other 
 great men of the island whom we had not yet seen ; in 
 particular they mentioned a person, considerably over sixty, 
 named Mareewagee, and another called Toobou, who, they 
 said, were of the first consequence. And so I found them to 
 be when I paid them a visit on shore, which they returned 
 — coming off to the ship accompanied by three or four in- 
 ferior chiefs. When dinner was laid upon the table, not one 
 of them would sit down or eat anything that was served up ; 
 on expressing my surprise at this, they were all taboo, as 
 they said, which signifies that a thing is forbidden. Dinner 
 being over, and having gratified their curiosity by show- 
 ing to them every part of the ship, I then conducted them 
 ashore. As soon as the boat reached the beach, Feenou 
 and some others stepped out. Young Fattafaihe following 
 them, was called back by Mareewagee, who now paid the 
 heir-apparent the same obeisance, and in the same manner 
 that I had seen it paid to the king. By this time I had 
 acquired some certain information about the relative 
 situations of the several great men, whose names have 
 
296 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 been so often mentioned. I now knew that Mareewagee and 
 Toubou were brothers. Feenou was one of Mareewagee's 
 sons, and Tooboueitoa was another. 
 
 Next day was fixed upon by Mareewagee for giving a 
 grand haiva, or entertainment, to which we were all invited. 
 For this purpose a large space had been cleared before the 
 temporary hut of the chief, near our post, as an area where 
 the performances were to be exhibited. In the morning 
 great multitudes of the natives came in from the country, 
 every one carrying upon his shoulders a pole, about six feet 
 long, with a yam suspended at each end. These yams and 
 poles were deposited on each side of the area, so as to 
 form two large heaps, decorated with different sorts of small 
 fish, and piled up to the greatest advantage : they were 
 Mareewagee's present to Captain Gierke and me. Every- 
 thing being thus prepared, about eleven o'clock they began 
 to exhibit various dances, which they called "mai." The music 
 consisted, at first, of seventy men as a chorus, who sat down ; 
 and amidst them were placed three instruments, which we 
 called drums from their effect, and the natives "naffa;" 
 these instruments produce a rude though loud and powerful 
 sound. The first dance consisted of four ranks of twenty- 
 four men each, holding in their hands a little thin light 
 wooden instrument, about two feet long, and in shape not 
 unlike a small oblong paddle. With these, which are called 
 "pagge," they made a great many different motions, all which 
 were accompanied by corresponding attitudes of the body. 
 Their motions were at first slow, but quickened as the 
 drums beat faster, and the whole time they recited sentences 
 in a musical tone, which were answered by the chorus ; at 
 the end of a short space they all joined, and finished with a 
 shout ; then the rear rank, dividing, shifted themselves very 
 slowly round each end, and meeting in the front, formed the 
 first rank, the whole number continuing to recite the sen- 
 tences as before. The other ranks did the same successively, 
 till that which at first was the front, became the rear ; and 
 their evolutions continued in the same manner, till the last 
 rank regained its first situation. They then began a much 
 
m- 
 
 !':-■- 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 297 
 
 quicker dance, though slow at first, and sung about ten 
 minutes, when the whole body divided into two parts, re- 
 treated a little, and then approached, forming a sort of 
 circular figure, which finished the dance. 
 
 In a short time, seventy men sat down as a chorus to 
 another dance. This consisted of two ranks, of sixteen 
 persons each, with young Toobou at their head. These 
 danced, sung, and twirled the ^^ pagge " as before, but in 
 general much quicker. A motion that met with particular 
 approbation, was one in which they held the face aside, as 
 if ashamed ; the back rank closed before the front one, and 
 that again resumed its place, as in the two former dances. At 
 that instant two men entered very hastily, and exercised the 
 clubs which they use in battle ; they did this by first twirling 
 them in their hands, and making circular strokes before them 
 with great force and quickness, but so skilfully managed 
 that, though standing quite close, they never interfered. To 
 them succeeded a person with a spear, in the same hasty 
 manner, looking about eagerly, as if in search of somebody 
 to throw it at. He then ran hastily to one side of the crowd 
 in the front, and put himself in a threatening attitude, as if 
 he meant to strike with his spear 'at one of them, bending 
 the knee a little, and trembling, as it were, with rage. He 
 continued in this manner only a few seconds, when he moved 
 to the other side, and having stood in the same posture 
 there, for the same short time, retreated from the ground as 
 fast as when he made his appearance ; and various other 
 evolutions were performed with much adroitness. 
 
 These dances lasted from eleven till nearly three o'clock, 
 and though they were doubtless intended to show us a 
 specimen of their dexterity, vast numbers of their own 
 people attended as spectators. Some computed that there 
 were not less than 10,000 or 12,000 people within the compass 
 of a quarter of a mile, drawn together for the most part by 
 mere curiosity. No pen can describe the numerous actions 
 and motions, the regularity with which they were performed ; 
 and the whole was conducted with more order than could 
 have been expected in so large an assembly. 
 
298 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 Early in the morning of the i8th an incident happened 
 that strongly marked one of their customs. A man got out 
 of a canoe into the quarter gallery of the Resolution^ and 
 stole from thence a pewter basin. He was discovered, 
 pursued, and brought alongside the ship. On this occasion, 
 three old women, who were in the canoe, made loud lamen- 
 tations over the prisoner, beating their breasts and faces in 
 a most violent manner, and all this was done without shed- 
 ding a tear. 
 
 This day I bestowed on Mareewagee some presents in 
 return for those we had received from him the day before ; 
 and as the entertainments which he had then exhibited for 
 our amusement called upon us to make some exhibition in 
 our way, I ordered a party of marines to go through their 
 exercise on the spot where the dances had been performed, 
 and in the evening played off some fireworks. Poolaho, all 
 the principal chiefs, and a great number of people of all 
 denominations, were present. The platoon firing, which was 
 executed tolerably well, seemed to give them pleasure, but 
 they were lost in astonishment when they beheld our water 
 rockets. In expectation of this evening show, the circles of 
 natives about our tent being pretty large, they engaged in 
 boxing and wrestling the greater part of the afternoon. 
 When one of them chooses to wrestle, he gets up from 
 one side of the ring and crosses the ground in a sort of 
 measured pace, clapping smartly on the elbow-joint of one 
 arm, which is bent, and produces a hollow sound. That is 
 reckoned the challenge. If no person comes out from the 
 opposite side to engage him, he returns in the same manner 
 and sits down, but sometimes stands clapping in the midst 
 of the ground, to provoke some one to come out. If an 
 opponent appears, they come together with marks of the 
 greatest good-nature, generally smiling, and taking time to 
 adjust the piece of cloth which is fastened round the waist. 
 These combats seldom last long before one gives in. Some 
 of our people ventured to contend with the natives in both 
 these exercises, but were always worsted. 
 
 The animals we had brought were all on shore. Knowing 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 299 
 
 their thievish disposition, I thought it prudent to declare my 
 intention of leaving some of them behind, and even to make 
 a distribution of them previous to my departure. With this 
 view, on the evening of the 19th, I assembled all the chiefs 
 before our house, and my intended presents to them were 
 marked out. To Poolaho, the king, I gave a young English 
 bull and cow ; to Mareewagee, a Cape ram and two ewes ; and 
 to Feenou, a horse and mare. As my design to make such a 
 distribution had been made known the day before, most of 
 the people in the neighbourhood were present. I entrusted 
 Omai to tell them that there were no. such animals within 
 many months' sail of their island, and that we had brought 
 them at a vast expense ; that therefore they must be careful 
 not to kill any of them till they had multiplied to a numerous 
 race ; and that they and their children ougnt to remember 
 that they had received them from the men of Britain. He 
 also explained to them their several uses, and what else was 
 necessary for them to know, or rather as far as he knew, for 
 Omai was not well versed in such things himself. 
 
 Next day I dined ashore. The king sat down with us, but 
 he neither ate nor drank. I found that this was owing to the 
 presence of a female, who, as we afterwards understood, had 
 superior rank to himself. As soon as this great personage 
 had dined, she stepped up to the king, who put his hands to 
 her feet, and then she retired. He immediately dipped his 
 fingers into a glass of wine, and then received the obeisance 
 of all her followers. This was the single instance we ever 
 observed of his paying this mark of reverence to any person. 
 At the king's desire I ordered some fireworks to be played 
 off in the evening ; but unfortunately, being damaged, this 
 exhibition did not answer expectation. As no more enter- 
 tainments were to be expected on either side, and the 
 curiosity of the populace was by this time pretty well 
 satisfied, most of them left us. We still, however, had 
 thieves about us, and, encouraged by the negligence of our 
 people, we had continual instances of their depredations 
 Some of the officers, belonging to both ships, who had made 
 an excursion into the interior of the island without my leave 
 
300 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 or knowledge, returned this evening, after an absence of two 
 days. They had taken with them their muskets, with the 
 necessary ammunition, and several small articles of the 
 favourite commodities, all of which the natives had the 
 dexterity to steal from them in the course of their expedition. 
 Feenou and Poolaho upon this occasion very justly observed, 
 that if any of my people at any time wanted to go into the 
 country, they ought to be acquainted with it, in which case 
 they would send proper persons along with them, and then 
 they would be answerable for their safety. Though I gave 
 myself no trouble about the recovery of the things stolen 
 upon this occasion, most of them, through Feenou's inter- 
 position, were recovered, except one musket and a few other 
 articles of inferior value. 
 
 We had now recruited the ships with wood and water, 
 and had finished the repairs of the sails. However, as an 
 eclipse of the sun was to happen on the 5th of July, and it 
 was now the 25th of June, I resolved to defer saihng till that 
 time had elapsed, in order to have a chance of observing it. 
 Having therefore some days of leisure before me, a party of 
 us, accompanied by Poolaho, set out early next morning in a 
 boat (or Mooa, the village where he and the other great men 
 usually reside. As we rowed up the inlet, we met fourteen 
 canoes fishing in company, in one of which was Poolaho's 
 sons. In each canoe was a triangular net, extended between 
 two poles, at the lower end of which was a cod to receive and 
 secure the fish. They had already caught some fine mullet, 
 and they put about a dozen into our boat. I desired to see 
 their method of fishing, which they readily complied with. 
 A shoal of fish was supposed to be in one of the banks, which 
 they instantly enclosed in a large net like a sieve, or set-net. 
 This the fishers, one getting into the water out of each boat, 
 surrounded with the triangular nets in their hands, with 
 which they scooped the fish out of the seine, or caught them 
 as they attempted to leap over it. 
 
 Leaving the prince and fishing party, we proceeded to the 
 bottom of the bay. Here we observed a fiataoka, or burying- 
 place, which was much more extensive, end seemingly of 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 301 
 
 more consequence, than any we had seen at the other islands. 
 We were told that it belonged to the king. It consisted of 
 three pretty large houses, situated upon a rising ground, with 
 a small one at a distance, all ranged longitudinally. They 
 were covered and paved with fine pebbles, and the whole 
 was enclosed by large flat stones of hard coral rock, properly 
 hewn, placed on their edges ; one of the stones measured 
 twelve feet in length, two in breadth, and above one in thick- 
 ness. Within one of these houses were two rude wooden 
 busts of men. On inquiring what these images were intended 
 for, we were told they were merely memorials of some chiefs 
 who had been buried there, and not the representations of any 
 deity. In one of them was a carved head of an Otaheitean 
 canoe, which had been driven ashore on their coast, and 
 deposited here. 
 
 After we had refreshed ourselves we made an excursion 
 into the country, attended by one of the king's ministers. 
 Our train was not great, as he would not suffer the rabble to 
 follow us. He also obliged all those whom we met upon our 
 progress to sit down till we had passed, which is a mark of 
 respect due only to their sovereigns. 
 
 By far the greater part of the country was cultivated, and 
 planted with various sorts of productions. There were many 
 public and well-beaten roads, and abundance of footpaths 
 leading to every part of the island. It is remarkable that 
 when we were on the most elevated parts, at least a hundred 
 feet above the level of the sea, we often met with the same 
 coral rock which is found on the shore, and yet these very 
 spots, with hardly any soil upon them, were covered with 
 luxuriant vegetation. We saw some springs, but the water 
 was either stinking or brackish. When we returned from 
 our walk, which was not till the dusk of the evening, our 
 supper was ready, and consisted of a baked hog, some fish, 
 and yams, all excellently well cooked after the method of 
 these islands. As there was nothing to amuse us after supper, 
 we followed the custom of the country, and lay down to sleep, 
 our beds being mats spread upon the floor, and cloth to cover 
 us. The king, who had made himself very happy with some 
 
302 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 wine and brandy which we had brought, slept in the same 
 house, as well as several others of the natives. 
 
 Early next morning they began to prepare a bowl of kava. 
 We had seen the drinking of this liquor sometimes at the 
 other islands, but by no means so frequently as here, where 
 it seems to be the only forenoon employment of the principal 
 people. The kava is a species of pepper which they cultivate 
 for this purpose, and esteem a valuable article. It seldom 
 grows to more than a man's height, and branches considerably, 
 with heart-shaped leaves and pointed stalks. The root is the 
 only part that is used. They break it in pieces, scrape the 
 dirt off with a shell, and then each chews his portion, which 
 he spits into a plantain leaf. The person who is to prepare 
 the liquor collects all these mouthfuls and puts them into a 
 large wooden dish or bowl, adding as much -water as will 
 make it of proper strength. It is then well mixed up with 
 the hands, and some loose stuff, of which mats are made, 
 is thrown upon the surface. The immediate effect of this 
 beverage is not perceptible on those people who use it so 
 frequently, but on some of ours who ventured to try it, though 
 so nastily prepared, it had the same intoxicating power as 
 spirits, or rather, it produced that kind of stupefaction which 
 is the consequence of using opium, or other substances of 
 that kind. I have seen them drink it seven times before 
 noon, yet it is so disagreeable, or at least seems so, that the 
 greater part of them cannot swallow it without making wry 
 faces and shuddering afterwards. When we got on board 
 the ship I found that everything had been quiet during my 
 absence, not a theft having been committed, of which Feenou 
 and Futtafaihe, the king's brother, who had undertaken the 
 arrangements of his countrymen, boasted not a little. This 
 shows what power the chiefs possess when they have the will 
 to execute it, which we could scarcely expect, since whatever 
 was stolen from us generally, if not always, was conveyed to 
 them. But the good conduct of the natives was of short 
 duration, for the next day six or eight of them assaulted 
 some of our people who were sawing planks. They were 
 fired upon by the sentry, and one was supposed to be wounded 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 303 
 
 and three others taken. These I kept confined all night, 
 and did not dismiss without punishment. After this they 
 behaved with a little more circumspection, and gave us much 
 less trouble. This change of behaviour was certainly occa- 
 sioned by the man being wounded ; for before they had only 
 been told the effect of firearms — but now they had felt it. 
 
 On the 30th I visited Futtafaihe, and we spent the night 
 ashore ; but we were a good deal disturbed by a singular 
 instance of luxury in which their principal men indulge them- 
 selves — that of being beaten while they are asleep. Two 
 women sat by Futtafaihe and performed this operation, that 
 was called " tooge-tooge," by beating briskly on his body and 
 legs with both fists, as on a drum, till he fell asleep, and con- 
 tinuing it the whole night, with some short intervals. When 
 once the person is asleep, they abate a little in the strength 
 and quickness of beating, but resume it if they observe any 
 appearance of his waking. In the morning we found that 
 Futtafaihe's women relieved each other, and went to sleep by 
 turns. In any other country it would be supposed that such 
 a practice would put an end to all rest ; but here it certainly 
 acts as an opiate, and is a strong proof of what habit may 
 effect. The noise of this, however, was not the only thing 
 that kept us awake, for the people who passed the night in 
 the house not only conversed among each other frequently, 
 as in the day, but all got up before it was light, and made a 
 hearty meal of fish and yams, which were brought to them by 
 a person who seemed to know very well the appointed time 
 for this nocturnal refreshment. 
 
 I had prolonged my stay at this island on account of the 
 approaching eclipse ; but on the 2nd of July, on looking at 
 the micrometer belonging to the Board of Longitude, I found 
 some of the rack-work broken, and the instrument useless 
 till repaired, which there was not time to do before it was 
 intended to be used. Preparing now for our departure, I 
 got on board all the cattle, poultry, and other animals, except 
 such as were destined to remain, and on the following day 
 we unmoored, that we might be ready to take advantage of 
 the first favourable wind. The king, who was one of our 
 
304 COOICS VOYAGES, 
 
 company this day at dinner, took particular notice of the 
 plates, which induced me to make him an offer of one, either 
 of pewter or of earthenware. He chose the first, and then 
 began to tell us the several uses to which he intended to 
 apply it, two being of so extraordinary a nature that I cannot 
 omit mentioning them. He said that whenever he should 
 have occasion to visit any of the other islands, he would 
 leave this plate behind him at Tongataboo as a sort of re- 
 presentative in his absence, that the people might pay it 
 the same obeisance as they did to himself in person. He 
 was asked what had been usually employed for that purpose 
 before he got this plate, and we had the satisfaction of learn- 
 ing from him that this singular honour had been hitherto 
 conferred on a wooden bowl in which he washed his hands. 
 The other extraordinary use to which he meant to apply this 
 plate, in the place of the wooden boAvl, was to discover a 
 thief. He said that when anything was stolen, and the thief 
 could not be found out, the people were all assembled 
 together before him, when he washed his hands in water in 
 this vessel, after which it was cleaned, and then the whole 
 multitude advanced one after another and touched it in the 
 same manner that they touch his foot when they pay him 
 obeisance ; if the guilty person touched it he died imme- 
 diately upon the spot, not by violence, but by the hand of 
 Providence, and if any one refused to touch it, his refusal 
 was a clear proof that he was the man. 
 
 On the morning of the 5th, the day of the eclipse, the 
 weather was dark and cloudy, with showers of rain, so that 
 we had little hopes of an observation. About nine o'clock 
 the sun broke out at intervals for about half an hour, after 
 which it was totally obscured till within a minute or two of 
 the beginning of the eclipse. We were all at our telescopes, 
 viz. : Mr. Bayley, Mr. King, Captain Gierke, Mr. Bligh, and 
 myself. I lost the observation by not having a dark glass at 
 hand, suitable to the clouds that were continually passing 
 over the sun, and Mr. Bligh had not got the sun into the 
 field of his telescope ; so that the commencement of the eclipse 
 was only observed by the other three gentlemen. 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 305 
 
 The general appearance of the country conveys to the 
 spectator an idea of the most exuberant fertihty, and at a 
 distance the surface seems entirely clothed with trees of 
 various sizes. Of cultivated fruits the principal are the plan- 
 tain and bread-fruit, and there is plenty of excellent sugar- 
 cane. The only quadrupeds besides hogs are a few rats 
 and some dogs. Fowls, which are of a large breed, are 
 domesticated here. 
 
 On the 6th of July we were ready to sail, but the wind 
 being unfavourable, were under the necessity of waiting two 
 or three days. We took our final leave of Tongataboo on the 
 loth, and early in the morning of the second day reached 
 Middleburgh, or Eooa. We had no sooner anchored than 
 Taoofa, the chief, and several other natives, visited us on 
 board, and seemed to rejoice much at our arrival. This 
 Taoofa knew me when I was here during my last voyage, 
 and I now went ashore with him in search of fresh water, 
 which was the chief object that brought me to Eooa. I was 
 first conducted to a brackish spring, between low and high 
 water mark, in the cove where we landed. Finding that we 
 did not like this, our friends took us a little inland, where, in 
 a deep chasm, we found very good water ; but rather than 
 undertake the tedious task of bringing it down to the shore, 
 I resolved to rest content with the supply that the ships had 
 got at Tongataboo. I put ashore the ram and the two ewes 
 of the Cape of Good Hope breed, entrusting them to the 
 care of Taoofa, who seemed proud of his charge. As we lay 
 at anchor this island bore a very different aspect from any 
 we had lately seen, and formed a most beautiful landscape. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 13th a party of us made an ex- 
 cursion to the highest part of the island ; and as the plains 
 and meadows are adorned with tufts of trees, intermixed 
 with plantations, they form a very beautiful landscape in 
 every point of view. While I was surveying this delightful 
 prospect, I could not help flattering myself with the pleasing 
 idea, that some future navigators may, from the same station, 
 behold these meadows stocked with cattle, brought to these 
 islands by the ships of England ; and that the completion of 
 
 U 
 
3o6 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 this single benevolent purpose, independently of all other 
 considerations, would sufficiently mark to posterity that our 
 voyages had not been useless to the general interests of 
 humanity. The next morning I planted a pine apple, and 
 sowed the seeds of melons and other vegetables in the chief's 
 plantation. I had some encouragement, indeed, to flatter 
 myself that my endeavours of this kind would not be fruitless. 
 On this day there was served up at my dinner a dish of 
 turnips, being the produce of the seeds I had left during my 
 last voyage. I had fixed on the 1 5th for sailing, till Taoofa 
 pressed me to stay a day or two longer, to receive a present 
 he had prepared for me, consisting of two small heaps of 
 yams and some fruit, which seemed to be collected by a kind 
 of contribution, as at the other isles. For this liberality I 
 made an adequate return, and soon weighed. 
 
 We now took leave of the Friendly Islands, after a stay of 
 nearly three months, during which time we lived with the 
 natives in the most cordial friendship. Some accidental 
 differences, it is true, now and then happened, owing to their 
 great propensity to thieving, which was too often encouraged 
 by the negligence of our own people. The time employed 
 amongst them was not thrown away ; and we expended very 
 little of our sea provisions, subsisting, in general, upon the 
 produce of the islands while we stayed, and carrying away 
 with us a quantity of refreshments, sufficient to last till we 
 arrived at another station, where we could depend upon a 
 fresh supply. I was not sorry, besides, to have had an op- 
 portunity of bettering the condition of these good people, by 
 leaving the useful animals before-mentioned among them ; 
 and at the same time, those designed for Otaheite received 
 fresh strength in the pastures of Tongataboo. But besides 
 the immediate advantages which both the natives of the 
 Friendly Islands and ourselves received by this visit, future 
 navigators from Europe, if any such ever tread in our steps, 
 will profit by the knowledge acquired of the geography of 
 this part of the Pacific Ocean ; and the more philosophical 
 reader, who loves to view human nature in new situations, 
 will, perhaps, find matter of amusement, if not of instruction. 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 307 
 
 in the information which I have been enabled to convey to 
 him concerning the inhabitants of this Archipelago. Ac- 
 cording to the information that we received then, this Archi- 
 pelago is very extensive. Above 150 islands were reckoned 
 up to us by the natives, who made use of bits of leaves to 
 denote their number. 
 
 Nothing material occurred for some time after we left the 
 Friendly Islands. On the morning of the 8th of August land 
 was seen nine or ten leagues distant. As we approached, we 
 saw it everywhere guarded by a reef of coral rock, extending in 
 some places a full mile from the land, and a high surf break- 
 ing upon it ; we also observed people on several parts of the 
 coast, and in a little time after we had reached the lee-side 
 of the island, we saw them launch two canoes, into which a 
 dozen men got, and paddled towards us. I now shortened 
 sail, as well to give these canoes time to come up to us, as 
 to sound for anchorage. The canoes stopped when they had 
 advanced within pistol-shot. Omai was employed, as he 
 usually had been on such occasions, to use all his eloquence 
 to prevail on the men in them to come nearer, but no en- 
 treaties could induce them to trust themselves within our 
 reach. They kept eagerly pointing to the shore with their 
 paddles, and calling to us to go thither ; and several of their 
 countrymen, who stood upon the beach, held up something 
 white, which we considered also as an invitation to land. 
 But as I did not think proper to risk losing the advantage of 
 a fair wind for the sake of examining an island which ap- 
 peared to be of little consequence, I made sail to the north, 
 but not without learning from them the name of their island, 
 which they called Toobouai. 
 
 At daybreak on the morning of the 12th we saw the island 
 of Maitea, and soon after Otaheite. When we first drew 
 near the island, several canoes came off to the ship, each 
 conducted by two or three men. But, as they were common 
 fellows, Omai took no particular notice of them, nor they of 
 him. At length a chief, whom I had known before, named 
 Ootee, and Omai's brother-in-law, and three or four more 
 persons, all of whom knew Omai, came on board. There 
 
3o8 COOIVS VOYAGES. 
 
 was nothing either tender or striking in their meeting, but, on 
 the contrary, there seemed to be a perfect indifference on both 
 sides, till Omai, having taken his brother-in-law down into the 
 cabin, opened the drawer where he kept his red feathers, and 
 gave him a few. This being presently known among the 
 rest of the natives upon deck, the face of affairs was entirely 
 changed, and Ootee, who would hardly speak to Omai be- 
 fore, now begged that they might be friends, and exchanged 
 names. Omai accepted the honour, and confirmed it with a 
 present of red feathers ; and Ootee, by way of return, sent 
 ashore for a hog. It was evident to every one of us, that it 
 was not the man, but his property, they were in love with : 
 such was Omai's first reception among his countrymen. The 
 important news of red feathers being on board our ships 
 having been conveyed on shore by Omai's friends, day had 
 no sooner began to break next morning, than we were sur- 
 rounded by a multitude of canoes, crowded with people 
 bringing hogs and fruit to market. At first, a quantity of 
 feathers not greater than what might be got from a tom-tit 
 would purchase a hog of forty or fifty pounds weight, but as 
 almost everybody in the ships was possessed of some of this 
 precious article of trade, it fell in its value above 500 per 
 cent, before night. 
 
 Soon after we had anchored, Omai's sister came on board 
 to see him. I was happy to observe that, much to the honour 
 of them both, their meeting was marked with expressions 
 of the tenderest affection, easier to be conceived than de- 
 scribed. This moving scene having closed, and the ship 
 being properly moored, Omai and I went on shore. My first 
 object was to pay a visit to a man whom my friend repre- 
 sented as a very extraordinary personage indeed, for he said 
 that he was the god of Bolabola. We found him seated 
 under one of those small awnings which they usually carry 
 in their larger canoes. He was an elderly man, and had lost 
 the use of his limbs, so that he was carried from place to 
 place upon a hand-barrow. From Omai's account of this 
 person I expected to have seen some religious adoration paid 
 to him, but, excepting some young plantain trees that lay be- 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 309 
 
 fore him, and upon the awning under which he sat, I could 
 observe nothing by which he might be distinguished from 
 their other chiefs. Omai presented to him a tuft of red 
 feathers, tied to the end of a small stick ; but after a little 
 conversation on indifferent matters with this Bolabola man, 
 his attention was drawn to an old woman, the sister of his 
 mother. She was already at his feet, and had bedewed them 
 plentifully with tears of joy. I left him with the old lady in 
 the midst of a number of people, who had gathered round 
 him, and went to view a house said to be built by strangers 
 since I was here before. By an inspection I found it was 
 erected by some Spaniards, who had been here lately in two 
 ships from Lima. When I returned, I found Omai holding 
 forth to a large company ; and it was with some difficulty 
 that he could be got away to accompany me on board, where 
 I had an important affair to settle. This was in regard to 
 the stated allowance of spirituous liquors ; and I had the 
 satisfaction to find that the crews of both ships unanimously 
 consented to an abridgment in the usual quantity while at 
 this place, that they might not be under the necessity of 
 being put to short allowance in a cold climate. 
 
 The next day we began some necessary operations ; I also 
 put on shore the bull, cows, horses, and sheep, and appointed 
 two men to look after them while grazing, as I did not intend 
 to leave any of them at this part of the island. During the 
 two following days it hardly ceased raining, but the natives, 
 nevertheless, came to us from every quarter, the news of our 
 arrival having rapidly spread. On the 17th Omai and I 
 went on shore, to pay a formal visit to a young chief named 
 Waheiadooa, who had come down to the beach. On this 
 occasion Omai, assisted by some of his friends, dressed 
 himself, not after the English fashion, nor that of Otaheite, 
 nor that of Tongataboo, nor in the dress of any country 
 upon earth, but in a strange medley of all that he was 
 possessed of 
 
 On our landing, Etary, or the god of Bolabola, carried on 
 a hand-barrow, attended us to a large house, where he was 
 set down, and we seated ourselves on each side of him. 
 
3IO COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 I caused a piece of Tongataboo cloth to be spread out before 
 us, on which I laid the presents I intended to make. Presently 
 the young chief came, attended by his mother and several 
 principal men, who all seated themselves at the other end of 
 the cloth, facing us. Then a man, who sat by me, made a 
 speech, consisting of short and separate sentences, part of 
 which was dictated by those about him. He was answered 
 by one from the opposite side, near the chief ; Etary spoke 
 next, and then Omai, both of them being answered from 
 the same quarter. These orations were entirely about my 
 arrival and connections with them. The person who spoke 
 last told me, among other things, that he was authorised to 
 make a formal surrender of the province of Tiaraboo to me, 
 and of everything in it, which marks very plainly that these 
 people are no strangers to the policy of accommodating them- 
 selves to present circumstances. At length the young chief 
 was directed by his attendants to come and embrace me ; 
 and, by way of confirming this treaty of friendship, we ex- 
 changed names. The ceremony being closed, he and his 
 friends accompanied me on board to dinner. Having taken 
 in a fresh supply of water, and finished all other necessary 
 operations, on the 22nd I brought off the cattle and sheep, 
 and made ready for sea. On the 23rd we got under sail, 
 and steered for Matavia Bay, where the Resoluiiojt anchored 
 the same evening, the Discovery not arriving till the next day. 
 About nine o'clock in the morning, Otoo, the king of the 
 whole island, attended by a great number of canoes full of 
 people, came from Oparre, his place of residence, and sent 
 a messenger on board, accompanied by Omai and some of the 
 officers. We found a prodigious number of people assembled 
 on this occasion, and in the midst of them was the king^ 
 attended by his father, his two brothers, and three sisters. 
 I went up first and saluted them, followed by Omai, who 
 kneeled and embraced his legs. Omai had prepared himself 
 for this ceremony by dressing in his very best suit of clothes, 
 and behaved with a great deal of respect and modesty; 
 nevertheless, very little notice was taken of him. Perhaps 
 envy had some share in producing this cold reception. He 
 
THE THIRD VOVAGE. 311 
 
 made the chief a present of a large bunch of red feathers and 
 about two or three yards of gold cloth, and I gave him a suit 
 of fine linen, a gold-laced hat, some tools, and, what was of 
 more value than all the other articles, a quantity of red 
 feathers, and one of the bonnets in use at the Friendly Islands. 
 After the hurry of this visit was over, the king and the whole 
 royal family accompanied me on board, followed by several 
 canoes, laden with all kinds of provisions, in quantity sufficient 
 to have served the companies of both ships for a week. Soon 
 after, the king's mother, who had not been present at the first 
 interview, came on board, bringing with her a quantity of 
 provisions and cloth, which she divided between me and Omai, 
 for although he was but little noticed at first by his country- 
 men, they no sooner gained a knowledge of his riches than 
 they began to court his friendship. I encouraged this as 
 much as I could, for it was my wish to leave him with Otoo ; 
 as I intended to land all my European animals at this island. 
 I thought he would be able to give some instructions about, 
 the management of them and their use. Besides, I knew 
 and saw that the further he was from his native island the 
 more he would be respected; unfortunately, however, poor 
 Omai rejected my advice, and conducted himself in so im- 
 prudent a manner that he soon lost the friendship of Otoo, 
 and of every other person of note in Otaheite. As soon as 
 we had dined, a party of us accompanied Otoo to Oparre, 
 taking with us the poultry with which we were to stock the 
 island. These I left at Oparre, in the possession of Otoo, 
 and the geese and ducks began to breed before we sailed. 
 We found there a gander, which the natives told us was the 
 same that Captain Wallis had given to Oberea ten years 
 before, several goats, and a Spanish bull, which they kept 
 tied to a tree near Otoo's house. I never saw a finer animal 
 of this kind. He was now the property of Etary, and had 
 been brought from Oheitepeha to this place in order to be 
 shipped for Bolabola. Next day I put ashore three cows, a 
 horse, a mare, and a sheep. 
 
 Having thus disposed of these passengers, I found myself 
 lightened of a very heavy burthen. The trouble and vexation 
 
312 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 that attended the bringing this living cargo thus far is hardly 
 to be conceived ; but the satisfaction I felt in having been so 
 fortunate as to fulfil his majesty's humane design, in sending 
 such valuable animals to supply the wants of two worthy 
 nations, sufficiently recompensed me for the many anxious 
 hours I had passed, before this subordinate object of my 
 voyage could be carried into execution. As I intended 
 to make some stay here, we set up the two observatories on 
 Matavia Point. Adjoining to them two tents were pitched, 
 for the reception of a guard, and of such people as it might 
 be necessary to leave on shore in different departments. I 
 entrusted the command to Mr. King, who, at the same time, 
 attended the observations for ascertaining the correctness of 
 the timekeeper, and other purposes. 
 
 On the 26th I had a piece of ground cleared for a garden, 
 and planted in it several articles. Some melons, potatoes, 
 and two pine-apple plants were in a fair way of succeeding 
 before we left the place. I had brought from the Friendly 
 Islands several shaddock trees, which I also planted here ; 
 and they can hardly fail of success, unless their growth 
 should be checked by the same premature curiosity which 
 destroyed a vine planted by the Spaniards at Oheitepeha. 
 A number of the natives got together to taste the first fruit it 
 bore, but as the grapes were still sour, they considered it as 
 little better than poison, and it was unanimously deternj^ed to 
 tread it under foot. In that state Omai found it by chance, 
 and was overjoyed at the discovery, for he had full confidence 
 that, if he had but grapes, he could make wine. Accordingly 
 he had several slips cut off* from the tree to carry with him, 
 and we pruned and put in order the remains of it. 
 
 We found there the young man whom we called Oedidee, 
 but whose real name is Heete-heete. I had carried him from 
 Ulietea in 1773, and brought him back in 1774, after he had 
 visited the Friendly Islands, New Zealand, Easter Island, 
 and the Marquesas, and been on board my ship about seven 
 months. He was tenacious of his good breeding, and " Yes, 
 sir," or " If you please, sir/' were frequently repeated by him. 
 Heete-heete, who is a native of Bolabola, had arrived in 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 313 
 
 Otaheite three months before, with no other intention, as we 
 could learn, than to gratify his curiosity, or perhaps some 
 other favourite passion. It was evident, however, that he 
 preferred the modes and even the garb of his own country- 
 men to ours, for though I gave him some clothes, which our 
 Admiralty Board had been pleased to send for his use, to 
 which I added a chest of tools and a few other articles as a 
 present from myself, he declined wearing them after a few 
 days. This instance may be urged as a proof of the strong 
 propensity natural to man, of returning to habits acquired at 
 an early age, and only interrupted by accident. 
 
 On the morning of the 27th a man came from Oheitepeha 
 and told us that the Spanish ships had anchored in that bay 
 the night before, and, in confirmation of this intelligence, 
 he produced a piece of coarse blue cloth, which he said he 
 got out of one of the ships. He added thafMateema was 
 in one of our ships, and that they were to come down to 
 Matavia in a day or two. Some other circumstances which 
 he mentioned gave the story so much an air of truth, that I 
 despatched Lieut. Williamson in a boat to look into Oheite- 
 peha Bay ; in the meantime I put the ships into a proper 
 state of defence, for though England and Spain were in 
 peace when I left Europe, for aught I knew hostilities might 
 have broken out. However, on further inquiry, the fellow 
 imposed upon us, and this was confirmed by Williamson's 
 report, as soon as he returned. 
 
 Hitherto the attention of Otoo and his people was confined 
 to us ; but next morning, messengers arrived from Eimeo, 
 with intelligence that the people in the island were in arms, 
 and that Otoo's partisans there had been worsted, and obliged 
 to retreat to the mountains. The quarrel between the two 
 islands, which commenced in 1774, had, it seems, partly 
 subsisted ever since. The formidable armament which 1 
 saw at that time had sailed soon after I left Otaheite, but 
 the malcontents of Eimeo had made so stout a resistance, 
 that the fleet had returned without effecting much ; and now 
 another expedition was necessary. On the arrival of the 
 messengers, all the chiefs who happened to be at Matavia, 
 
314 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 assembled at Otoo's house, where I actually was at the time, 
 and had the honour to be admitted into their council. One 
 of the messengers opened the business in a speech of consi- 
 derable length, in order to excite the assembled chiefs of 
 Otaheite to arm on this occasion. This opinion was com- 
 bated by others who were against commencing hostilities, 
 but at length the party for war prevailed ; Otoo, during the 
 whole debate, remained silent. Those of the council who 
 were for prosecuting the war, applied to me for assistance, 
 and all of them wanted to know what part I would take. 
 Omai was sent to be my interpreter, but as he could not be 
 found, I was obliged to speak for myself, and told them, as 
 well as I could, that as the people of Eimeo had never 
 offended me, I could not think myself at liberty to engage in 
 hostilities against them. With this declaration they seemed 
 satisfied. 
 
 Whenever anyone of the great chiefs thinks a sacrifice 
 necessary, on any particular emergency, he pitches upon the 
 victim ; some of his trusty servants are then sent, who fall 
 upon him suddenly, and put him to death with a club, or by 
 stoning him. The king is next acquainted with it, and his 
 presence at the solemn rites that follow is, as I was told, 
 absolutely necessary. Though, probably, not more than one 
 person is sacrificed on any single occasion at Otaheite, yet 
 I counted no less than forty-nine skulls of former victims 
 lying before a moral ; and as none of those skulls had, as 
 yet, suffered any considerable change from the weather, it 
 may hence be inferred that no great length of time had 
 elapsed since at least this considerable number of unhappy 
 wretches had been offered upon this altar of blood. 
 
 Human sacrifices, however, are not the only barbarous 
 customs we find to be still prevailing amongst this unen- 
 lightened people. For, besides cutting out the jawbones of 
 their enemies slain in battle, which they carry about as 
 trophies, they in some measure offer their bodies as a sacri- 
 fice to the Eatooa. Soon after a battle in which they have 
 been victors, they collect all the dead that have fallen into 
 their hands, and bring them to the moral, where, with ci 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 315 
 
 great deal of ceremony, they dig a hole and bury them all 
 in it, as so many offerings to the gods ; but their skulls are 
 never after taken up. We made no scruple in freely ex- 
 pressing our sentiments about their horrid ceremonies to 
 Otoo, and those who attended him, and I could not conceal 
 my detestation of them in a subsequent conversation with 
 Towha. Omai was made use of as our interpreter ; and he 
 entered into our arguments with so much spirit that the 
 chief seemed to be in great wrath, especially when he was 
 told, that if he had put a man to death in England, as he 
 did here, his rank would not protect him from being hanged 
 for it. Upon this he exclaimed, " Macno ! maeno !" (" Vile ! 
 vile ! ") and would not hear another word. 
 
 On the 4th of September a party of us dined ashore with 
 Omai, who gave excellent fare, consisting of fish, fowls, pork, 
 and puddings. After dinner I attended Otoo, who had been 
 one of the party, back to his house, where I found all his 
 servants very busy getting a quantity of provisions ready for 
 me. Amongst other articles there was a large hog, which 
 they killed in my presence. There was also a large pudding, 
 composed of bread-fruit, ripe plantains, taroo, and palm or 
 pandanus nuts, each rasped, scraped, or beat up fine, and 
 baked by itself. A quantity of juice, pressed from cocoa-nut 
 kernels, was put into a large tray or wooden vessel. The 
 other articles, hot from the oven, were deposited in this 
 vessel, and a few hot stones were also put in to make the con- 
 tents simmer. Three or four men made use of sticks to stir 
 the several ingredients till they were incorporated one with 
 another, and the juice of the cocoa-nut was turned to oil, so 
 that the whole mass at last became of the consistency of 
 a hasty pudding. Some of these puddings are excellent, and 
 few that we make in England equal them. Otoo's hog being 
 baked, and the pudding which I have described being made, 
 they, together with two living hogs and a quantity of bread- 
 fruit and cocoa-nuts, were put into a canoe and sent on 
 board my ship, followed by myself and all the royal family. 
 
 In the evening of the 7th we played off some fireworks 
 before a great concourse of people. Some were highly enter- 
 
3i6 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 tained with the exhibition, but by far the greater number of 
 the spectators were terribly frightened, insomuch that it was 
 with difficulty we could prevail upon them to keep together 
 to see the end of the show. A table-rocket was the last. It 
 flew off the table, and dispersed the whole crowd in a 
 moment ; even the most resolute among them fled with pre- 
 cipitation. 
 
 Otoo was not more attentive to supply our wants by a 
 succession of presents than he was to contribute to our 
 amusement by a succession of diversions. A party of us 
 having gone down to Oparre on the loth, he treated us with 
 what may be called a play. His three sisters were the 
 actresses, and the dresses they appeared in were new and 
 elegant— that is, more so than we had usually met with at 
 any of these islands. In the evening we returned from 
 Oparre, wherp we left Otoo and all the royal family, and I 
 saw none of them till the 12th, when all but the chief himself 
 paid me a visit ; he, as they told me, was gone to Attahooroo, 
 to assist this day at another human sacrifice, which the chief 
 of Tiaraboo had sent thither to be offered up at the morai. 
 
 The following evening Otoo returned from exercising this 
 most disagreeable of all his duties as sovereign ; and the 
 next day, being now honoured with his company. Captain 
 Gierke and I, mounted on horseback, took a ride round the 
 plain of Matavia, to the very great surprise of a great train 
 of people, who attended on the occasion, gazing upon us 
 with as much astonishment as if we had been centaurs : 
 Omai, indeed, had once or twice before this attempted to 
 get on horseback, but he had been as often thrown off before 
 he could contrive to seat himself, so that this was the first 
 time they had seen anybody ride a horse. Though this 
 performance was repeated every day while we stayed, by 
 one or another of our people, the curiosity of the natives 
 continued still unabated. They were exceedingly delighted 
 with these animals, after they had seen the use that was 
 made of them ; and, as far as I could judge, they conveyed 
 to them a better idea of the greatness of other nations than 
 all other European novelties put together. 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 317 
 
 On the morning of the i8th, Mr. Anderson, myself, and 
 Omai went again, with Otoo, to Oparre, and took with us 
 the sheep which I intended to leave upon the island, con- 
 sisting of an English ram and ewe and three Cape ewes, all 
 of which I gave to Otoo. After dining with Otoo we re- 
 turned to Matavia, leaving him at Oparre. This day, and 
 also the 19th, we were very sparingly supplied with fruit. 
 Otoo hearing of this, he and his brother, who had attached 
 himself to Captain Clerke, came from Oparre, between nine 
 and ten o'clock in the evening, with a large supply for both 
 ships. The next day all the royal family came with presents, 
 so that our wants were not only relieved, but we had more 
 provisions than we could consume. 
 
 Having got all our water on board, the ships being caulked, 
 the rigging overhauled, and everything put in order, I began 
 to think of leaving the island, that I might have sufficient 
 time for visiting the others in this neighbourhood. With 
 this view we removed from the shore our observatories and 
 instruments, and bent our sails. Early in the morning of 
 the 22nd, Otoo and his father came on board to know when 
 I proposed sailing ; for, having been informed that there was 
 a good harbour at Eimeo, I told them that I should visit that 
 island on my way to Huaheine, and they were desirous of 
 taking a passage with me, and of their fleet sailing at the 
 same time to reinforce Towha. As I was ready to take my 
 departure, I left it to them to name the day ; and the Wed- 
 nesday following was fixed upon, when I was to take on 
 board Otoo, his father, mother, and, in short, the whole 
 family. These points being settled, I proposed setting out 
 immediately for Oparre, where all the fleet fitted out for the 
 expedition was to assemble that day, and to be reviewed. I 
 had just time to get into my boat when news was brought 
 that Towha had concluded a treaty with Maheine, arid had 
 returned with his fleet to Attahooroo. This unexpected 
 event made all further proceedings in a military way quite 
 unnecessary ; and the war-canoes, instead of rendezvousing 
 at Oparre, were ordered home to their respective districts. 
 I now returned on board my ship, attended by Otoo's mother, 
 
3iS COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 his three sisters, and eight more women. At first I thought 
 this numerous train of females came into my boat with no 
 other intention than to get a passage to Matavia ; but when 
 we arrived at the ship they told me that they intended to 
 pass the night on board for the express purpose of under- 
 taking the cure of a disorder I had complained of, which was 
 a pain of the rheumatic kind. I accepted the friendly offer, 
 had a bed spread for them on the cabin floor, and submitted 
 myself to their directions. They began to squeeze me with 
 both hands from head to foot, but particularly on the parts 
 where the pain was lodged, till they made my bones crack, 
 and my flesh became a perfect mummy. In short, after 
 undergoing this discipline for about a quarter of an hour, I 
 was glad to get away from them. However, the operation 
 gave me immediate relief, which encouraged me to submit 
 to another rubbing down before I went to bed ; and it was 
 so effectual that I found myself pretty easy all the night 
 after. My female physicians repeated their prescription the 
 next morning before they went ashore, and again in the 
 evening, when they returned on board, after which I found 
 the pains entirely removed, and the cure being perfected, 
 they took their leave of me the following morning. This 
 operation is universally practised amongst these islanders ; 
 being sometimes performed by the men, but more generally 
 by the women. 
 
 The war with Eimeo being finally closed, all our friends 
 paid us a visit- on the 26th ; and as they knew that we were 
 on the point of sailing, brought with them more hogs than we 
 could take off their hands, for, having no salt left to preserve 
 any, we wanted no more than for present use. 
 
 On the 28th, Otoo came on board and informed me that 
 he had got a canoe, which he desired I would take with me, 
 and carry home as a present from him to his Majesty the 
 King of Great Britain ; it being the only thing, he said, that 
 he could send worth his acceptance. I was not a little pleased 
 with Otoo for this mark of his gratitude. It was a thought 
 entirely his own, not one of us having given him the least 
 hint about it, and it showed that he fully understood to whom 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 319 
 
 he was indebted for the most valuable presents he had re- 
 ceived. As it was too large for me to take on board, I could 
 only thank him for his good intention ; but it would have 
 pleased him much better if his present could have been 
 accepted. 
 
 We were detained here some days longer than I expected 
 by light breezes from the west. At length, at three o'clock in 
 the evening of the 29th, the wind came from the east, and 
 we weighed anchor. 
 
 When the Spanish ships, which had some time before 
 touched here, left the island, four Spaniards remained 
 behind. Two were priests, one a servant, and the fourth 
 made himself very popular among the natives, who distin- 
 guished him by the name of Matema. He seems to have 
 been a person who had studied their language, or, at least, 
 to have spoken it so as to be understood, and to have taken 
 uncommon pains to impress the minds of the islanders with 
 the most exalted ideas of the greatness of the Spanish nation, 
 and to make them think meanly of the English. He even 
 went so far as to assure them, that we no longer existed as 
 an independent nation ; that Pretane was only a small 
 island, which they, the Spaniards, had entirely destroyed ; 
 and that they had met with me at sea, and, with a few shot, 
 had sent my ship, and every soul in her, to the bottom, so 
 that my visiting Otaheite at this time was of course very un- 
 expected. With what design the priests stayed, we cannot 
 guess. If it was to convert the people to the Catholic faith, 
 they had not succeeded in any one instance. When they 
 had stayed ten months, two ships came to Oheitepeha, took 
 them on board, and sailed again in five days. 
 
 Otoo said, if the Spaniards should return, he would not let 
 them come to Matavia Fort, which, he said, was ours. It 
 was easy to see that the idea pleased him, little thinking that 
 the completion of it would at once deprive him of his king- 
 dom and the people of their liberties. This shows with 
 what facility a settlement might be obtained at Otaheite, 
 which, grateful as I am for repeated good offices, I hope will 
 never happen. 
 
320 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 We had no sooner anchored in the neighbouring island 
 of Eimeo than the ships were crowded with the inhabi- 
 tants, whom curiosity alone brought on board, for they had 
 nothing with them for the purpose of barter ; but the next 
 morning several canoes arrived, from more distant parts, 
 bringing with them abundance of bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and 
 a few hogs. These they exchanged for hatchets, nails, and 
 beads ; for red feathers were not so much sought for here as 
 at Otaheite. In the morning of the 2nd of October, Maheine, 
 the chief of the island, paid me a visit. He approached the 
 ship with great caution, and it required some persuasion to 
 get him on board. This chief, who, with a few followers, had 
 made himself independent of Otaheite, is between forty and 
 fifty years old. He is bald-headed, which is rather uncom- 
 mon in these islands at that age, and wore a kind of turban, 
 as he seemed ashamed to show his head. They had seen us 
 shave the head of one of their people, whom we had caught 
 stealing, and therefore concluded that this was the punish- 
 ment usually inflicted by us upon all thieves ; and one or two 
 of our gentlemen, whose heads were not overburthened with 
 hair, we could observe, lay under violent suspicions of being 
 tetos, or thieves. 
 
 We hauled the ship off into the stream on the 6th of 
 October, intending to put to sea the next day, but an accident 
 happened which prevented it. We had sent our goats ashore 
 to graze, with two men to look after them ; but, notwithstand- 
 ing this precaution, the natives had contrived to steal one of 
 them in the evening. The loss of this goat would have been 
 of little consequence if it had not interfered with my views 
 of stocking other islands with these animals ; but this being 
 the case, it became necessary to recover it, if possible, and 
 after much trouble we succeeded. 
 
 At Eimeo we abundantly supplied the ships with firewood. 
 We had not taken any in at Otaheite, there not being a tree 
 at Matavia but what is useful to the inhabitants. There is a 
 very striking difference in the women of this island and those 
 of Otaheite. Those of Eimeo are of low stature, are of a 
 dark hue, and, in general, forbidding features. If we met 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 321 
 
 with a fine woman among them, w^e were sure to find, upon 
 inquiry, that she had come from some other island. 
 
 We left Eimeo on the 12th of October, 1777, and the next 
 morning saw Huaheine. At noon we anchored at the north 
 entrance of Owharre harbour, which is on the west side of 
 the island. Our arrival brought all the principal people to 
 our ships, which was what I wished, as it was high time to 
 think of settling Omai ; and the presence of these chiefs, I 
 thought, would enable me to do it in the most satisfactory- 
 manner. After the hurry of the morning was over, we 
 got ready to pay a formal visit to Taireetareea, the sove- 
 reign, meaning then to introduce this business. Omai 
 dressed himself very properly on this occasion, and pre- 
 pared a handsome present for the chief himself, and 
 another for his Eatooa ; indeed, after he got clear of the 
 gang that surrounded him at Otaheite, he behaved with 
 such prudence as to gain respect. We waited some time for 
 Taireetareea, but when he appeared I found that his pre- 
 sence might have been dispensed with, as he was not above 
 eight or ten years of age. Omai, who stood at a little distance 
 from this circle of great men, began with making his offerings 
 to the gods, consisting of red feathers, cloth, and other 
 articles, which were each laid before one of the company, 
 who, I understood, was a priest, and delivered with a set 
 speech or prayer, spoken by one of Omai's friends, who sat 
 by him, but mostly dictated by himself. In these prayers 
 he did not forget his friends in England, nor those who had 
 brought him safe back; the "Earee rahie no Pretane" (King 
 George), Lord Sandwich, Toote, and Tatee (Cook and Gierke), 
 were mentioned in every one of them. When Omai's offerings 
 and prayers were finished, the priest took each article, in the 
 same order in which it had been laid before him, and after 
 repeating a prayer, sent it to the moral, which, as Omai told 
 us, was at a great distance, otherwise the offerings would 
 have been made there. Omai sat down by me and we entered 
 upon business. Omai's establishment was then proposed to 
 the assembled chiefs : he acquainted them " that he had 
 been carried by us into our country, where he was well 
 
322 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 received by the great king and his earees, and treated with 
 every mark of regard and affection while he stayed amongst 
 us ; that he had been brought back again, enriched by our 
 liberahty with a variety of articles^ which would prove very 
 useful to his countrymen ; and that, besides the two horses, 
 which were to remain with him, several new and valuable 
 animals had been left at Otaheite, which would soon multiply, 
 and furnish a sufficient number for the use of all the islands 
 in the neighbourhood. He then signified to them that it 
 was my earnest request, in return for all my friendly offices, 
 that they would give him a piece of land to build a house 
 upon, and to raise provisions for himself and servants ; 
 adding, that if this could not be obtained for him in Hua- 
 heine, either by gift or by purchase, I was determined to 
 carry him to Ulietea, and fix him there." 
 
 One of the chiefs immediately expressed himself to this 
 effect : " that the whole island of Huaheine, and everything 
 in it, were mine, and that, therefore, I might give what 
 portion of it I pleased to my friend." Omai was greatly 
 pleased to hear this ; thinking, no doubt, that I should be 
 very liberal, and give him enough. But to offer what it 
 would have been improper to accept, I considered as offering 
 nothing at all, and, therefore, I now desired that they would 
 not only assign the particular spot, but also the exact quantity 
 of land which they would allot for the settlement. After a 
 short consultation among themselves my request was granted, 
 and the ground immediately pitched upon, adjoining to the 
 house where our meeting was held. The extent along the 
 shore of the harbour was about 200 yards, and its depth, 
 to the foot of the hill, somewhat more, but a proportional 
 part of the hill was included in the grant. This business 
 being settled, to the satisfaction of all parties, I set up a tent 
 ashore, established a post, and erected the observatories. 
 The carpenters of both ships were also set to work to build 
 a small house for Omai, in which he might secure the Euro- 
 pean commodities that were his property. At the same time 
 some hands were employed in making a garden for his use. 
 
 While we lay in this harbour, we carried ashore the bread 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 323 
 
 remaining in the bread-room, to clear it of vermin. The 
 number of cockroaches that infested the ship at this time was 
 incredible ; the damage they did us was very considerable, 
 and every method devised by us to destroy them proved in- 
 effectual. According to Mr. Anderson's observations, they 
 were of two sorts, the Blatta orientalis and germanica. The 
 first of these had been carried home in the ship from her 
 former voyage, where they withstood the severity of the hard 
 winter in 1766, though she was in dock all the time. The 
 others had only made their appearance since our leaving 
 New Zealand, but had increased so fast, that when a sail was 
 loosened, thousands of them fell upon the decks. The 
 oriejitalis, though in infinite numbers, scarcely came out but 
 in the night, when they made everything in the cabin seem 
 as if in motion, from the particular noise in crawling about. 
 
 The intercourse of trade and friendly offices was carried 
 on between us and the natives, without being disturbed by 
 any one accident, till the evening of the 22nd, when a man 
 found means to get into Mr. Bayley's observatory, and to 
 carry off the sextant unobserved. As soon as I was made 
 acquainted with this, I went ashore, and got Omai to apply 
 to the chiefs to procure restitution. He did so, but they 
 took no steps towards it, being more attentive to a heeva 
 that was then acting, till I ordered the performers of the ex- 
 hibition to desist. They were now convinced that I was in 
 earnest, and began to make some inquiry after the thief, who 
 was sitting in the midst of them, quite unconcerned, inso- 
 much that I was in great doubt of his being the guilty per- 
 son, especially as he denied it. Omai, however, assuring me 
 that he was the man, I sent him on board the ship, and there 
 confined him. This raised a general ferment amongst the 
 assembled natives, and the whole body fled, in spite of all 
 my endeavours to stop them. Having employed Omai to 
 examine the prisoner, with some difficulty he was brought to 
 confess where he had hid the sextant ; but, as it was now dark, 
 we could not find it till daylight the next morning, when it 
 was brought back uninjured. After this, the natives recovered 
 from their fright, and began to gather about us as usual. As 
 
324 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 the thief seemed to be a very hardened fellow, I punished 
 him with some severity. This, however, did not deter him, 
 for in the night of the 24th a general alarm was spread, 
 occasioned, as was said, by one of our goats being stolen by 
 this very man. On examination, we found that all was safe 
 in that quarter ; probably, the goats were so well guarded, 
 that he could not put his design into execution, but it 
 appeared that he had destroyed and carried off several vines 
 and cabbage plants in Omai's grounds, and he publicly 
 threatened to kill him and to burn his house as soon as we 
 should leave the island. To prevent the fellow's doing me 
 and Omai any more mischief, I had him seized and confined 
 again on board the ship, with a view of carrying him off the 
 island ; and it seemed to give general satisfaction to the 
 chiefs that I meant thus to dispose of him. 
 
 Omai's house being nearly finished, many of his movables 
 were carried ashore on the 26th. Amongst a variety of other 
 useless articles was a box of toys, which, when exposed to 
 public view, seemed greatly to please the gazing multitude. 
 But as to his pots, kettles, dishes, plates, drinking mugs, 
 glasses, and the whole train of our domestic accommodation, 
 hardly any one of his countrymen would so much as look at 
 them. Omai himself now began to think that they were of 
 no manner of use to him ; that a baked hog was more 
 savoury food than a boiled one ; that a plantain-leaf made as 
 good a dish or plate as pewter ; and that a cocoa-nut shell 
 was as convenient a goblet as a black jack ; and therefore 
 he very wisely disposed of as many of these articles of 
 English furniture for the kitchen and pantry as he could find 
 purchasers for amongst the people of the ships, receiving 
 from them in return hatchets and other iron tools, which 
 had a more intrinsic value in this part of the world, and 
 added more to his distinguishing superiority over those with 
 whom he was to pass the remainder of his days. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 30th, the Bolabola man whom 
 I had put into confinement found means to make his escape 
 from the ship. Upon inquiry, it appeared that, not only the 
 sentry placed over the prisoner, but the whole watch upon 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 325 
 
 the quarter-deckj where he was confined, had laid themselves 
 down to sleep. He seized the opportunity to take the key of 
 the irons out of the binnacle drawer, where he had seen it 
 put, and set himself at liberty. I was not a little pleased to 
 hear afterwards that this fellow had transported himself to 
 Ulietea. 
 
 As soon as Omai was settled in his new habitation, I began 
 to think of leaving the island, and got everything off from the 
 shore this evening, except the horse and mare, a boar and sow 
 of the English breed, and a goat, which were left in the pos- 
 session of our friend, with whom we were now finally to part. 
 Omai had picked up at Otaheite four or five Toutous ; the 
 two New Zealand youths remained with him, and his brother 
 and some others joined him at Huaheine, so that his family 
 already consisted of eight or ten persons, if that can be called 
 a family, to which not a single female belonged, for Omai did 
 not seem at all disposed to take unto himself a wife. The 
 house that we erected for him was twenty-four feet by 
 eighteen, and ten feet high. It was settled that, immediately 
 after our departure, he should begin to build a large house, 
 after the fashion of his country, one end of which was to be 
 brought over that which we had erected, so as to enclose it 
 entirely ; for greater security in this work, some of the chiefs 
 promised to assist him. His European weapons consisted 
 of a musket, bayonet, and cartouch-box, a fowling-piece, two 
 pairs of pistols, and two or three swords or cutlasses. The 
 possession of these made him quite happy, and after he had 
 got on shore everything that belonged to him, and was settled 
 in his house, he had most of the officers of both ships two or 
 three times to dinner ; and his table was always well sup- 
 plied with the very best provisions that the island produced. 
 
 Before I sailed I had the following inscription cut upon the 
 outside of his house : — 
 
 Georgius Tertius, Rex, 2 November, 1777. 
 
 Naves \ ^^^obction, Jac. Cook, Pr. 
 \ Discovery, Car. Gierke, Pr. 
 
 On the 2nd of November, at four in the afternoon, I took 
 advantage of a breeze which then sprung up from the east, and 
 
326 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 sailed out of the harbour. Most of our friends remained on 
 board till the ships were under weigh, when, to gratify their 
 curiosity, I ordered five guns to be fired. They then took 
 their leave, except Omai, who remained till we were at sea ; 
 an hour or two later he went ashore, taking' a very affec- 
 tionate farewell of all the officers. He sustained himself with 
 a manly resolution till he came to me, when his utmost efforts 
 to conceal his tears failed ; and Mr. King, who went in the 
 boat, told me that he wept all the time in going ashore. 
 
 Omai's return, and the substantial proofs he brought back 
 with him of our liberality, encouraged many to offer them- 
 selves as volunteers to attend me to Pretane. I took every 
 opportunity of expressing my determination to reject all such 
 applications. If there had been the most distant probability 
 of any ship being again sent to New Zealand, I would have 
 brought home with me two youths of that country, who were 
 very desirous of continuing with us. Tiarooa, the elder, 
 was an exceedingly well-disposed young man, with strong 
 natural sense, and capable of receiving any instruction. He 
 seemed to be fully sensible of the inferiority of his own 
 country to these islands, and resigned himself, though per- 
 haps with reluctance, to end his days in ease and plenty in 
 Huaheine. But the other was so strongly attached to us that 
 he was taken out of the ship and carried ashore by force. 
 He was a witty, smart boy, and on that account much noticed 
 on board. But notwithstanding this, Omai, who was very 
 ambitious of remaining the only great traveller, frequently 
 reminded me that Lord Sandwich had told him no others 
 of his countrymen were to come to England. 
 
 On the return of the boat which carried Omai ashore, 
 never to join us again, I immediately stood over for Ulietea, 
 where I intended to touch next. At ten o'clock at night we 
 brought to, till four the next morning, when we made sail 
 round the south end of the island for the harbour of Ohama- 
 neno. We met with calms and light airs of wind, from different 
 directions by turns, so that at noon we were still a league 
 from the entrance of the harbour. While we were thus 
 detained, my old friend Oreo, chief of the island, with his 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. • 327 
 
 son, and Pootoe, his son-in-law, came off to visit us. Being 
 resolved to make for the harbour, I ordered all the boats to be 
 hoisted out, and sent them ahead to tow, but we were obliged 
 to come to an anchor at its entrance at two o'clock, and to 
 warp in, which employed us till night set in. As soon as we 
 were within the harbour the ships wxre surrounded with 
 canoes filled with people, who brought hogs and fruit to 
 barter with us for our commodities. Next morning, being 
 the 4th, I moored the ship's head and stern close to the north 
 shore at the head of the harbour ; hauled up the cables on 
 deck, and opened one of the ballast ports. From this a 
 slight stage was made to the land, about twenty feet distant, 
 with a view to get clear of some of the rats that continued 
 to infest us. The Discovery moored alongside the south 
 shore for the same purpose. While this work was going 
 forward I returned Oreo's visit. The present I made him on 
 the occasion consisted of a linen gown, a shirt, a red- 
 feathered cap from Tongataboo, and other things of less 
 value. I then brought him and some friends on board to 
 dinner. On the 6th we set up the observatories, and got the 
 necessary instruments on shore. 
 
 Nothing worthy of note happened till the night of the 12th, 
 when John Harrison, a marine, who was sentinel at the ob- 
 servatory, deserted, carrying with him his musket and accou- 
 trements. Havmg in the morning got intelligence which 
 way he had moved off, a party was sent after him, but they 
 returned in the evening, after an ineffectual inquiry and 
 search. The next day I applied to the chief to interest him- 
 self in the matter. He promised to send a party of his men 
 after him, but I had reason to suspect that no steps had been 
 taken by him. We had at this time a great number of 
 natives about the ships, and some thefts were committed ; 
 dreading the consequences, very few visitors came near us 
 the next morning, and the chief himself with his whole family 
 fled. I thought this a good opportunity to oblige them to 
 deliver up the deserter, and having heard that he was at a 
 place called Hamoa, on the other side of the island, I went 
 thither with two armed boats, accompanied by one of the 
 
328 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 natives, on our way embarking the chief. I landed about a 
 mile and a half from the place, with a few people, and 
 marched briskly up to it, lest the sight of the boats should 
 give the alarm, and allov/ the man time to escape to the 
 mountains. But this precaution was unnecessary, for the 
 natives there had got information of my coming, and were 
 prepared to deliver him up . 
 
 I found Harrison with his musket lying before him, sitting 
 between two women, who, the moment I entered the house, 
 rose up to plead in his behalf. As it was highly proper to 
 discourage such proceedings, I frowned upon them, and bid 
 them begone, upon which they burst into tears and walked 
 off. Paha, the chief of the district, now came with a plantain 
 tree and a sucking pig, which he would have presented to me 
 as a peace-offering. I rejected it, and ordered him out of 
 my sight, and having embarked with the deserter on board 
 the first boat that arrived, returned to the ship. After this, 
 harmony was again restored. The fellow had nothing to say 
 in his defence, but that the natives had enticed him away, 
 and this might in part be true, as it was certain Paha, and 
 also the two women above mentioned, had been at the ship 
 the day before he deserted. As it appeared that he remained 
 at his post till within a few minutes of the time when he was 
 to have been relieved, the punishment I inflicted upon him 
 was not very severe. 
 
 While we lay moored to the shore we heeled and scrubbed 
 both sides of the bottoms of the ships. At the same time we 
 fixed some tin plates upon the binds, first taking off the old 
 sheathing, and putting in a piece unfilled, over which the 
 plates were nailed. 
 
 On the morning of the 24th I was informed that a mid- 
 shipman and a seaman, both belonging to the Discovery^ 
 were missing. Soon after, we learnt from the natives that 
 they went away in a canoe the preceding evening, and were 
 at this time at the other end of the island. As the midship- 
 man was known to have expressed a desire to remain at these 
 islands, it seemed pretty certain that he and his companion 
 had gone off with this intention ; and Captain Gierke set out 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 329 
 
 in quest of them with two armed boats and a party of marines. 
 His expedition proved fruitless, for he returned in the even- 
 ing without having got any certain inteUigence where they 
 were. From the conduct of the natives, Captain Gierke 
 seemed to think that they intended to conceal the deserters, 
 and with that view had given him false information the 
 whole day, which turned out to be correct, for the next morn- 
 ing we were told that our runaways were at Otaha. As 
 these two were not the only persons in the ships who wished 
 to end their days at these favourite islands, in order to put a 
 stop to any further desertion, it was necessary to get them 
 back at all hazards ; and that the natives might be convinced 
 that I was in earnest, I resolved to go after them myself, 
 having observed, from repeated instances, that they seldom 
 offered to deceive me with false information. Accordingly, I 
 set out the next morning with two armed boats, being accom- 
 panied by the chief himself I proceeded as he directed, 
 without stopping anywhere, till we came to the middle of the 
 east side of Otaha. Then we put ashore, and Oreo dis- 
 patched a man before us with orders to seize the deserters, 
 and keep them till we should arrive with the boats. But 
 when we got to the place where we expected to find them, 
 we were told that they had quitted this island, and gone over 
 to Bolabola the day before. I did not think proper to follow 
 them thither, but returned to the ships, fully determined, how- 
 ever, to have recourse to a measure which I guessed would 
 oblige the natives to bring them back. 
 
 Soon after daybreak the chief, his son, daughter, and son- 
 in-law, came on board the Resolution. The three last I 
 resolved to detain till the two deserters should be brought 
 back. With this view Captain Clerke invited them to go 
 on board his ship, and, as soon as they arrived there, con- 
 fined them in his cabin. The chief was with me when the 
 news reached him, and he immediately acquainted me with 
 it, supposing that this step had been taken without my 
 knowledge, and, consequently, without my approbation. I 
 instantly undeceived him, when he began to have appre- 
 hensions as to his own situation, and his looks expressed 
 
330 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 the utmost perturbation of mind ; but I soon made him 
 easy as to this, by telling him that he was at liberty to leave 
 the ship whenever he pleased, and to take such measures as 
 he should judge best calculated to get our two men back ; 
 that if he succeeded, his friends on board the Discovery 
 should be deHvered up ; if not, that I was determined to 
 carry them with me. I added, that his own conduct, as 
 well as that of many of his people, in not only assisting 
 these two men to escape, but in being, even at this very 
 time, assiduous in enticing others to follow them, would 
 justify any step I could take to put a stop to such pro- 
 ceedings. This explanation of the motives upon which I 
 acted, and which we found means to make Oreo, and those 
 of his people who were present, fully comprehend, seemed 
 to reassure them in a great measure. But, if relieved from 
 apprehension about their own safety, they continued under 
 the deepest concern for those who were prisoners. Many 
 of them went under the Discovery s stern in canoes to bewail 
 their captivity, which they did with long and loud exclama- 
 tions. "Poedooa!" (for so the chiefs daughter was called) 
 resounded from every quarter ; and the women seemed to 
 vie with each other in mourning her fate, with more sig- 
 nificant expressions of their grief than tears and cries, for 
 there were many bloody heads upon the occasion. 
 
 Oreo himself did not give way to unavailing lamentations, 
 but instantly began his exertions to recover our deserters by 
 dispatching a canoe to Bolabola, with a message to Opoony, 
 the sovereign of that island, acquainting him with what had 
 happened, and requesting him to seize the two fugitives and 
 send them back. The messenger, who was no less a man 
 than the father of Pootoe, Oreo's son-in-law, before he set 
 out came to receive my commands. I strictly enjoined him 
 not to return without the deserters, and to tell Opoony from 
 me, that if theyliad left Bolabola he m/ist send canoes to 
 bring them back, for I suspected that they would not long 
 remain in one place. Urged by a regard for the high rank 
 of the prisoners, the natives did not think proper to trust to 
 the return of our people for their release ; or at least their 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 331 
 
 impatience was so great, that it hurried them to meditate an 
 attempt which might have involved them in still greater 
 distress, had it not been fortunately prevented. Between 
 five and six o'clock in the evening I observed that all their 
 canoes, in and about the harbour, began to move off, as if 
 some sudden panic had seized them. I was ashore, abreast 
 of the ship, at the time, and inquired in vain to find out the 
 cause, till our people called to us from the Discovery^ and 
 told us that a party of the natives had seized Captain Gierke 
 and Mr. Gore, who had walked out a little way from the 
 ships. Struck with the boldness of this plan of retaliation, 
 which seemed to counteract me so effectually in my own 
 way, there was no time to deliberate ; I instantly ordered 
 the people to arm, and in less than five minutes a strong 
 party, under the command of Mr. King, was sent to rescue 
 our two gentlemen ; at the same time two armed boats, and 
 a party under Mr. Williamson, went after the flying canoes, 
 to cut off their retreat to the shore. These several detach- 
 ments were hardly out of sight before an account arrived that 
 we had been misinformed, upon which I sent and called them 
 all in. 
 
 It was evident, however, from several corroborating cir- 
 cumstances, that the design of seizing Captain Clerke had 
 really been in agitation amongst the natives, nay, they made 
 no secret in speaking of it the next day ; but their first and 
 great plan of operation was to have laid hold of me. It was 
 my custom, every evening, to bathe in the fresh water. Very 
 often I went alone, and always without arms. Expecting me 
 to go as usual this evening, they had determined to seize me, 
 and Captain Clerke, too, if he had accompanied me ; but I 
 had, after confining Oreo's family, thought it prudent to avoid 
 putting myself in their power, and had cautioned Captain 
 Clerke and the officers not to go far from the ships. In the 
 course of the afternoon the chief asked me three several times 
 if I would not go to the bathing-place, and when he found, at 
 last, that I could not be prevailed upon to do so, he went off, 
 with the rest of his people, in spite of all that I could do or 
 say to stop him. But as I had no suspicion at this time of 
 
332 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 their design, I imagined that some sudden fright had seized 
 them, which would, as usual, soon be over. Finding them- 
 selves disappointed as to me, they fixed on those who were 
 more in their power. It was fortunate for all parties that they 
 did not succeed, and not less fortunate that no mischief was 
 done on the occasion, for not a musket was fired, except two 
 or three to stop the canoes. To that firing, perhaps, Messrs. 
 Gierke and Gore owed their safety,* for, at that very instant, 
 a party of the natives, armed with clubs, were advancing 
 towards them, and on hearing the reports of the muskets they 
 dispersed. The conspiracy, as it may be called, was first 
 discovered by a girl whom one of the officers had brought 
 from Huaheine. She, overhearing some of the Ulieteans say 
 that they would seize Gaptain Gierke and Mr. Gore, ran to 
 acquaint the first of our people that she met with. Those 
 who were charged with the execution of the design threatened 
 to kill her, as soon as we should leave the island, for dis- 
 appointing them. Being aware of this, we contrived that her 
 friends should come, some days after, and take her out of 
 the ship, to convey her to a place of safety till they could 
 have an opportunity of sending her back to Huaheine. 
 
 On the 27th our observatories were taken down, and every- 
 thing we had ashore carried on board ; the moorings of the 
 ship were east off, and we transported them a little way down 
 the harbour, where they were brought to an anchor again. 
 Towards the afternoon, the natives began to shake off their 
 fears, gathering round and on board the ships as usual, and 
 the awkward transactions of the day before seemed to be for- 
 gotten on both sides. The following night the wind blew in 
 hard squalls from south to east, attended with heavy showers 
 of rain. In one of the squalls, the cable by which the Reso- 
 lution was riding, parted just without the hawse. We had 
 another ready to let go, so that the ship was presently brought 
 up again. In the afternoon, the wind became moderate, and 
 
 * Perhaps they owed their safety principally to Captain Gierke's walking with 
 a pistol in his hand, which he once fired. The circumstance is omitted both in 
 Captain Cook's and Mr. Anderson's journal, but it is here mentioned on the 
 authority of Captain King. 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 333 
 
 we hooked the end of the best small bower cable, and got it 
 again into the hawse. Oreo, the chief, being uneasy as well 
 as myself that no account had been received from Bolabola, 
 set out this evening for that island, and desired me to follow 
 him the next day with the ships. This was my intention, 
 but the wind would not admit of our getting to sea, though 
 the same wind which kept us in the harbour brought Oreo 
 back from Bolabola with the two deserters. They had 
 reached Otaha the same night they deserted, but finding it 
 impossible to get to any of the islands to the eastward, for 
 want of wind, they had proceeded to Bolabola, and from 
 thence to the small island Toobaee, where they were taken by 
 the father of Pootoe, in consequence of the first message sent 
 to Opoony. As soon as they were on board, the three 
 prisoners were released, and thus ended the affair, which had 
 given me much trouble and vexation ; nor would I have 
 exerted myself so resolutely on the occasion, but for the 
 reasons before mentioned, and to save the son of a brother 
 officer from being lost to his country. 
 
 The wind continued between the north and west, and con- 
 fined us in the harbour till eight o'clock in the morning of 
 the 7th of December, when we took advantage of a light 
 breeze which then sprang from the north-east, and, with the 
 assistance of all the boats, got out to sea, with the Discovery 
 in company. During the last week we had been visited by 
 people from all parts of the island, who furnished us with a 
 large stock of hogs and green plantains. So that the time 
 we lay wind-bound in the harbour was not entirely lost, green 
 plantains being an excellent substitute for bread, as they will 
 keep for a fortnight or three weeks. Besides this supply of 
 provisions, we also completed our wood and water. 
 
 Ulietea, before its conquest by Bolabola, was, as we were 
 told, the most important of that cluster of islands, and 
 probably the first seat of government, for they say that the 
 present royal family of Otaheite is descended from that which 
 reigned here before the late revolution. Ooroo, the dethroned 
 monarch of Ulietea, was still alive when we were at Huaheine, 
 where he resides, preserving all the emblems which they 
 
334 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 appropriate to majesty, though he has lost his dominions. 
 We saw a similar instance of this while we were at Ulietea. 
 One of the occasional visitors I now had was my old friend 
 Oree, the late chief of Huaheine, who still preserved his 
 consequence, and came always at the head of a numerous 
 body of attendants. 
 
 As soon as we got clear of the harbour, we took our leave 
 of Ulietea, and steered for Bolabola. The chief, if not the 
 sole object I had in view in visiting that island was to pro- 
 cure from its monarch, Opoony, one of the anchors which 
 Monsieur de Bougainville had lost at Otaheite. This, having 
 afterwards been taken up by the natives there, had, as they 
 informed me, been sent by them as a present to that chief. 
 My desire to get possession of it did not arise from our being 
 in want of anchors, but, having expended all the hatchets 
 and other iron tools which we had brought from England 
 in purchasing fresh provisions, we were now reduced to the 
 necessity of creating a fresh assortment of trading articles 
 by fabricating them out of the spare iron we had on board ; 
 and in such conversions, and in the occasional uses of the 
 ships, great part of that had been already expended. I 
 thought that M. de Bougainville's anchor would supply 
 our want of this useful material, and I made no doubt 
 that I should be able to tempt Opoony to part with it. 
 Oreo, who is a sort of deputy of the king of Bolabola, 
 and six or eight men from Ulietea, took a passage with 
 us to Bolabola ; indeed, most of the natives, except the 
 chief himself, would have gladly taken a passage with us 
 to England. At sunset, being near the south point of 
 Bolabola, we shortened sail, and spent the night making 
 short boards. At daybreak on the 8th we made sail for the 
 harbour, which is on the west side of the island ; but the tide 
 and wind being against us, I gave up the design of carrying 
 the ships into the harbour ; and having ordered the boats to 
 be got ready, I embarked in one of them, accompanied by 
 Oreo and his companions, and was rowed in for the island. 
 We landed where the natives directed us, and soon after I 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 335 
 
 was introduced to Opoony in the midst of a great concourse 
 of people. Having no time to lose, as soon as the necessary- 
 formalities were over, I asked the chief to give me the 
 anchor, and produced the present I had prepared for him, 
 consisting of a linen night-gown, a shirt, some gauze hand- 
 kerchiefs, a looking-glass, some beads, and other toys, and 
 six axes. At the sight of these last there was a general out- 
 cry, but I could only guess the cause by Opoon/s absolutely 
 refusing to receive my present till I should get the anchor. 
 He ordered three men to go and deliver it to me ; and as I 
 understood, I was to send by them what I thought proper in 
 return. With these messengers we set out in our boat for an 
 island, lying at the north side of the entrance into the 
 harbour, where the anchor had been deposited. I found it 
 to be neither so large nor so perfect as I expected. It 
 had originally weighed 700 pounds, according to the mark 
 that was upon it ; but the ring, with part of the shank and 
 two palms, were wanting. I was no longer at a loss to 
 guess the reason of Opoony's refusing my present. He 
 doubtless thought that it so much exceeded the value of the 
 anchor in its present state, that I should be displeased when 
 I saw it. Be this as it may, I took the anchor as I found it, 
 and sent him every article of the present that I at first 
 intended. Having thus completed my negotiation, I re- 
 turned on board, and having hauled in the boats, made sail 
 from the island to the north. 
 
 While the boats were hoisting in, some of the natives 
 came off in three or four canoes to see the ship, as they said. 
 They brought with them a few cocoa-nuts and one pig, 
 which was the only one we got at the island. I make no 
 doubt, however, that if we had stayed till the next day, we 
 should have been plentifully supplied with provisions ; but 
 as we had already a very good stock, both of hogs and of 
 fruit, on board, and very little of anything left to purchase 
 more, I could have no inducement to defer any longer the 
 prosecution of our voyage. 
 
 After leaving Bolabola, I steered to the northward, close- 
 
336 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 hauled, with the wind between north-east and east, hardly 
 ever having it to the southward of east till after we had 
 crossed the line, and had got into north latitudes. 
 
 Though seventeen months had now elapsed since our 
 departure from England, during which we had not, upon the 
 whole, been unprofitably employed, I was sensible that, with 
 regard to the principal object of my instructions, our voyage 
 was, at this time, only beginning ; and therefore my attention 
 to every circumstance that might contribute towards our 
 safety and our ultimate success, was now to be called forth 
 anew. With this view I had examined into the state of our 
 provisions at the last islands ; and as soon as I had left 
 them, and got beyond the extent of my former discoveries, I 
 ordered a survey to be taken of all the boatswain's and 
 carpenter's stores that were in the ships, that I might be 
 fully informed of the quantity, state, and condition of every 
 article, and by that means know how to use them to the 
 greatest advantage. 
 
 In the night of the 22nd we crossed the line in the longi- 
 tude of 203° 1 5' East, and on the 24th, about half an hour 
 after daybreak, land was discovered bearing north-east. 
 Upon a nearer approach, it was found to be one of those 
 low islands so common in this ocean, that is, a narrow bank 
 of land enclosing the sea within ; a few cocoa-nut trees were 
 seen in two or three places, but in general the land had a 
 very barren appearance. Having dropped anchor in thirty 
 fathoms, a boat was despatched to examine whether it was 
 practicable to land, of which I had some doubt, as the sea 
 broke in a dreadful surf all along the shore. When the boat 
 returned, the officer whom I had entrusted with this examina- 
 tion, reported to me that he could see no place where a boat 
 could land, but that there was a great abundance of fish in 
 the shoal water without the breakers. 
 
 At daybreak the next morning I sent two boats, one 
 from each ship, to search more accurately for a landing- 
 place, and at the same time two others to fish near the 
 shore. These last returned about eight o'clock, with upwards 
 of two hundred-weight of fish. Encouraged by this success, 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 'ly] 
 
 they were despatched again after breakfast, and I then went 
 in another boat to take a view of the coast and attempt land- 
 ing, which, however, I found to be wholly impracticable. 
 Towards noon, the two boats sent on the same search re- 
 turned. In consequence of the report of the master, that 
 about a league and a half to the north was a break in the 
 land, and a channel into the lagoon, the ships weighed 
 anchor and came to again in twenty fathoms of water, before 
 a small island that lies at the entrance of the lagoon, and on 
 each side of which there is a channel suitable for boats lead- 
 ing into it. The water in the lagoon itself is very shallow. 
 
 On the 28th I landed, in company with Mr. Bayley, on the 
 island which lies between the two channels in the lagoon, to 
 prepare the telescopes for observing an approaching eclipse 
 of the sun, which was one great inducement to my anchoring 
 here. 
 
 On the morning of the 30th, the day when the eclipse was 
 to happen, Mr. King, Mr. Bayley, and myself, went ashore 
 on the small island above mentioned, to attend the observa- 
 tion. The sky was overcast till past nine o'clock, when the 
 clouds about the sun dispersed long enough to take its alti- 
 tude to rectify the time by the watch we made use of. After 
 this, it was again obscured till about thirty minutes past nine, 
 and then we found that the eclipse had begun. We now 
 fixed the micrometers to the telescopes, and observed or 
 measured the uneclipsed part of the sun's disc. At these 
 observations I continued about three-quarters of an hour 
 before the end, when I left off, being, in fact, unable to con- 
 tinue them any longer, on account of the great heat of the 
 sun, increased by the reflection from the sand. 
 
 In the afternoon, the boats and turtling party at the south- 
 east part of the island all returned on board, except a seaman 
 belonging to the Discovery, who had been missing two days. 
 There were two of them at first who had lost their way, but 
 disagreeing about the most probable track to bring them back 
 to their companions, they had separated ; one of them joined 
 the party after having been absent twenty-four hours and 
 been in great distress. Not a drop of fresh water could be 
 
338 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 had, for there is none upon the whole island, nor was there a 
 single cocoa-nut tree on that part of it. In order to allay his 
 thirst he had recourse to a singular expedient of killing turtles 
 and drinking their blood. His mode of refreshing himself, 
 when weary, of which he said he felt the good effects, was 
 equally whimsical ; he undressed himself and lay down for 
 some time in the shallow water upon the beach. It was a 
 matter of surprise to every one how these men could contrive 
 to lose themselves. The land over which they had to travel, 
 from the sea-coast to the lagoon, where the boats lay, was not 
 more than three miles across, nor was there anything to 
 obstruct their view, for the country was flat, with a few shrubs 
 scattered upon it, and from many parts of it the masts of the 
 vessels could easily be seen. 
 
 As soon as Captain Gierke knew that one of the stragglers 
 was still in this awkward situation, he sent a party in search 
 of him ; but neither the man nor the party having come back 
 the next morning, I ordered two boats into the lagoon, to go 
 different ways, in prosecution of the search. Not long after, 
 Captain Gierke's party returned with their lost companion, 
 and my boats having now no object left, I called them 
 back by signal. This poor fellow must have suffered far 
 greater distress than the other straggler, not only as having 
 been lost a longer time, but because he had been too squeamish 
 to drink turtle's blood. 
 
 Having some cocoa-nuts and yams on board in a state of 
 vegetation, I ordered them to be planted on the spot where 
 we had observed the eclipse, and some melon seeds were 
 sown in another place. I also left on the little island a bottle, 
 containing the following inscription : 
 
 Georgius Tertius, Rex, 31 December, 1777. 
 
 Naves -f -^^•^^^"^^'^^j J^c. Cook, Pr. 
 1 Discovery, Car. Clerke, Pr. 
 
 On the 1st of January, 1778, I sent boats to bring on board 
 all our parties from the island, and the turtles they had 
 caught. Before this was completed, it was too late in the 
 afternoon, so that I did not think proper to sail till the 
 next morning. We got at this island, for both ships, about 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 339 
 
 300 turtles, weighing, one with another, about ninety or a 
 hundred pounds. This island has been produced by acces- 
 sions from the sea, and is in a state of increase, for not only 
 the broken pieces of coral, but many of the shells are too 
 heavy and large to have been brought by any birds from the 
 beach to the places where they now lie. Not a drop of fresh 
 water was anywhere found, though frequently dug for, and 
 there were not the smallest traces of any human being having 
 ever been here before us. On the few cocoa-trees upon the 
 island, the number of which did not exceed thirty, very little 
 fruit was found, and, in general, what was found was either 
 not fully grown or had the juice salt or brackish. A ship 
 touching here must expect nothing but fish and turtles, but of 
 these an abundant supply may be depended upon. 
 
 On some parts of the land were a few low trees, under 
 which sat infinite numbers of a new species of tern, or egg-bird. 
 These are black above and white below, with a white arch 
 on the forehead, and are rather larger than the common 
 noddy. Most of them had lately hatched their young, which 
 lay under the old ones upon the bare ground. The rest had 
 eggs, of which they only lay one, larger than that of a pigeon, 
 bluish and speckled with black. There were also many 
 common boobies, resembling a gannet, and a sooty or cho- 
 colate-coloured one, with a white belly. To this list we may 
 add men-of-war birds, tropic birds, curlews, sand-pipers, a 
 small land bird like a hedge-sparrow, land crabs, small lizards, 
 and rats. 
 
 As we kept our Christmas here, I called this discovery 
 Christmas Island. I took it to be about fifteen or twenty 
 leagues in circumference, and of a semicircular form — or like 
 the moon in the last quarter, the two horns being the north 
 and south points. 
 
 On the 2nd of January, at daybreak, we weighed anchor 
 and resumed our course to the north ; and on the morning 
 of the 1 8th "^ discovered an island ; and soon after more land, 
 
 * This date, the i8th of January, 1778, will be ever memorable in the annals of 
 geographical discovery as the day on which the group known as the Sandwich 
 Islands was given to civilisation by the enterprise of Captain Cook. 
 
340 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 bearing north, and entirely sheltered from the former. Both 
 had the appearance of being high land. 
 
 On the 19th, at sunrise, the island first seen bore east 
 several leagues distant. This being directly to windward, 
 which prevented our getting near it, I stood for the other, 
 which we could reach, and not long after discovered a third 
 island in the direction of west-north-west, as far distant as 
 land could be seen. We steered for the second island, which 
 at noon was about two leagues distant. At this time we were 
 in some doubt whether or no the land before us was inhabited, 
 but soon after saw some canoes coming off from the shore 
 toward the ships. I immediately brought to, to give them 
 time to join us. They had from three to six men each, and 
 on their approach we were agreeably surprised to find that 
 they spoke the language of Otaheite and of the other islands 
 we had lately visited. It required very little address to get 
 them to come alongside, but no entreaties could prevail upon 
 any of them to come on board. I tied some brass medals 
 to a rope, and gave them to those in one of the canoes ; who, 
 in return, tied some small mackerel to the rope as an equi- 
 valent. This was repeated, and some nails, or bits of iron, 
 which they valued more than any other article, were given 
 them. For these they exchanged more fish and a sweet 
 potato ; and having only some large gourd shells and a kind 
 of fishing-net, one of them offered for sale the piece of stuff 
 he wore round his waist. These people were of a brown 
 colour, and, though of the common size, were stoutly made. 
 The hair of most of them was cropped pretty short ; others 
 had it flowing loose ; and with a few, it was tied in a bunch 
 on the crown of the head. In all it seemed naturally black ; 
 but most of them had stained it, as is the practice of the 
 Friendly Islanders, with some stuff which gave it a brown or 
 burnt colour. In general they wore their beards. They had 
 no ornaments about their persons, and the bits of cloth which 
 they wore were curiously stained with red, black, and white 
 colours. They seemed very mild, and had no arms of any 
 kind, if we except some small stones, which they had 
 evidently brought for their own defence ; and these they 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 341 
 
 threw overboard when they found that they were not 
 wanted. 
 
 Seeing no signs of an anchorlng-place at the eastern ex- 
 tremity of the island, I bore away to leeward, and ranged 
 along the south-east side, at a distance of half a league from 
 the shore. As soon as we made sail the canoes left us ; but 
 others came off as we proceeded along the coast, bringing 
 with them pigs and some very fine potatoes, which they 
 exchanged as the others had done before, for whatever was 
 offered to them. Several small pigs were purchased for a 
 sixpenny nail, so that we again found ourselves in a land of 
 plenty, and just at the time when the turtle, which we had 
 so fortunately procured at Christmas Island, were nearly 
 expended. We passed several villages ; some near the sea, 
 and others farther up the country, the inhabitants of which 
 crowded to the shore, and collected on the elevated places 
 to view the ships. 
 
 We continued to sound, without striking ground, with a 
 line of fifty fathoms. Night put a stop to further researches, 
 when we stood off and on. The next morning we stood in 
 for the land, and were met by several canoes, filled with 
 people, some of whom took courage and ventured on board. 
 In the course of my several voyages I never before met with the 
 natives of any place so much astonished as these people were 
 upon entering the ship. Their eyes were continually flying 
 from object to object, the wildness of their looks and gestures 
 fully expressing their entire ignorance about everything they 
 saw, and denoting that, till now, they had never been visited 
 by Europeans, nor been acquainted with any of our commo- 
 dities, except iron, which, however, it was plain they had 
 only heard of They seemed only to understand that it was 
 a substance much better adapted to the purposes of cutting 
 or of boring holes, than anything their own country produced. 
 They asked for it by the name of " hamaite," probably re- 
 ferring to some instrument, in the making of which iron 
 could be usefully employed, as they applied that name to 
 the blade of a knife, though we were certain that they had 
 no idea of that particular instrument ; nor could they handle 
 
342 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 it properly. For the same reason they frequently called iron 
 by the name of " toe," which, in their language, signifies a 
 hatchet, or rather, a kind of adze. 
 
 When we showed them some beads, they asked, first, what 
 they were, and then whether they should eat them ; but on 
 their being told that they were to be hung in their ears, they 
 returned them as useless. They were equally indifferent to 
 a looking-glass which was offered them, and returned it for 
 the same reason, but sufficiently expressed their desire for 
 "hamaite" and "toe," which they wished might be very 
 large. Plates of earthenware, china cups, and other such 
 things, were so new to them that they asked if they were 
 made of wood, but wished to have some, that they might 
 carry them to be looked at on shore. They were, in some 
 respects, naturally well-bred, or, at least, fearful of giving 
 offence ; asking whether they should sit down, and the like. 
 Some of them repeated a long prayer before they came on 
 board, and others afterwards sung and made motions with 
 their hands, such as we had been accustomed to see in the 
 dances of the islands we had lately visited. At first, on 
 entering the ship, they endeavoured to steal everything they 
 came near, or rather, to take it openly, as what we either 
 should not resent or not hinder. We soon convinced them 
 of their mistake, and if they, after some time, became less 
 active in appropriating to themselves whatever they took a 
 fancy to, it was because they found that we kept a watchful 
 eye over them. 
 
 At nine o'clock, being pretty near the shore, I sent three 
 armed boats, under the command of Lieutenant Williamson, 
 to look for a landing-place and for fresh water, with orders 
 that if he should find it necessary to land in search of the 
 latter, not to suffer more than one man to go with him out 
 of the boats. Just as they were pulling off from the ship one 
 of the natives, having stolen the butcher's cleaver, leaped 
 overboard, got into his canoe, and hastened to the shore, the 
 boats pursuing him in vain. 
 
 While the boats were occupied in examining the coast we. 
 stood on and off with the ships, waiting for their return 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 343 
 
 About noon Mr. Williamson came back, and reported that 
 he had seen a large pond behind a beach, near one of the 
 villages, which the natives told him contained freshwater, 
 and that there was anchoring ground before it. He also 
 reported that he had attempted to land in another place, 
 but was prevented by the natives, who, coming down to the 
 boats in great numbers, attempted to take away the oars, 
 muskets, and in short everything that they could lay hold 
 of, and pressed so thick upon him that he was obliged to 
 fire, by which one man was killed. This unhappy circum- 
 stance I did not know till after we had left the island, so that 
 all my measures were directed as if nothing of the kind had 
 happened. Mr. Williamson told me, that after the man fell 
 his countrymen took him up, carried him off, and then retired 
 from the boat, but still made signals for our people to land, 
 which he declined. 
 
 The ships being stationed, between three and four o'clock, 
 I went ashore with three armed boats and twelve marines, to 
 examine the water, and to try the disposition of the inhabi- 
 tants, several hundreds of whom were assembled on a sandy 
 beach before the villages, behind which was a narrow valley, 
 having at the bottom the piece of water. The very instant I 
 leaped on shore, the natives all fell flat upon their faces, and 
 remained in that humble position till, by expressive signs, I 
 prevailed upon them to rise ; they then brought a great many 
 small pigs, which they presented to me, with a plantain tree, 
 using much the same ceremonies that we had seen practised 
 on such occasions at the Society and other islands, a long 
 prayer being also spoken by a single person, in which others 
 of the assembly sometimes joined. I expressed my accept- 
 ance of their proffered friendship, by giving them in return 
 such presents as I had brought with me from the ship for 
 that purpose. When this introductory business was finished, 
 I stationed a guard upon the beach, and got some of the 
 natives to conduct me to the water, which proved to be very 
 good, and in a proper situation for our purpose ; it was so 
 considerable that it may be called, a lake, and it extended 
 farther up the country than we could see. Having satisfied 
 
344 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 myself about this point, and about the peaceable disposition 
 of the natives, I returned on board ; and having given orders 
 that everything should be in readiness for landing and filling 
 our water-casks in the morning, I returned with the people 
 employed in that service, and a guard of marines, who were 
 stationed on the beach. As soon as we landed, a trade was 
 set on foot for hogs and potatoes, which the people of this 
 island gave us in exchange for nails and pieces of iron 
 formed into something like chisels. We met with no ob- 
 struction in watering ; on the contrary, the natives assisted 
 our men in rolling the casks to and from the pool, and readily 
 performed whatever we required. 
 
 Everything going on thus to my satisfaction, and consider- 
 ing my presence on the spot as unnecessary, I left the 
 command to Mr. Williamson, who had landed with me, and 
 made an excursion into the country, up the valley, accom- 
 panied by Mr. Anderson and Mr. Webber, the former of 
 whom was as well qualified to describe with the pen as the 
 latter was to represent with his pencil everything we might 
 meet with worthy of observation. A numerous train of 
 natives followed us, and one of them, whom I had dis- 
 tinguished for his activity in keeping the rest in order, I 
 made choice of as our guide ; this man, from time to time, 
 proclaimed our approach, when everyone we met fell prostrate 
 on the ground, and remained in that position till we had 
 passed. This, as I afterwards understood, is the mode of 
 paying their respect to their own great chiefs. As the ships 
 worked down the coast, we had observed at every village one 
 or more elevated white objects, like pyramids, or rather 
 obelisks ; and one of these, which I guessed to be at least 
 fifty feet high, was very conspicuous from the Resolution's 
 deck at anchor, and seemed to be at no great distance 
 up this valley. To have a nearer inspection of it was the 
 principal object of my walk. Our guide perfectly understood 
 what we wished, but as it was separated from us by the pool 
 of water, and another of the same kind lay within our reach, 
 about half a mile off, we set out to visit that. On our arrival 
 we saw that it stood in a burying-ground, or morai, the 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 345 
 
 resemblance of which, in many respects, to those we were 
 so well acquainted with at other islands in this ocean, and 
 particularly Otaheite, could not but strike us ; and we also 
 soon found that the several parts that compose it were called 
 by the same names. It was an oblong space, of considerable 
 extent, surrounded by a wall of stone, about four feet high. 
 The space enclosed was loosely paved with smaller stones ; 
 and at one end of it stood what I call the pyramid, which 
 appeared to be an exact model of the larger one, observed 
 by us from the ships. It was about four feet square at the 
 base, and about twenty feet high : the four sides were com- 
 posed of small poles, interwoven with twigs and branches, 
 thus forming an indifferent wicker-work, hollow or open 
 within, from bottom to top. It seemed to be in a rather 
 ruinous state, but there were sufficient remaining marks to 
 show that it had originally been covered with a thin, light 
 grey cloth, which these people appear to consecrate to re- 
 ligious purposes. On each side of the pyramid were long 
 pieces of wicker-work, in the same ruinous condition, with 
 two slender poles inclining to each other, at one corner, 
 where some plantains were laid upon a board, fixed at a 
 height of five or six feet ; this fruit was an offering to their 
 gods. Before the pyramid were a few pieces of wood, carved 
 into something like human figures, which, with a stone, near 
 two feet high, covered with pieces of cloth, called " hoho,'' 
 and consecrated to Tongarooa, who is the god of these 
 people, completed the resemblance to the morals of the 
 islands we had lately left. 
 
 On the farther side of the area of the moral stood a house, 
 or shed, about forty feet long, ten broad in the middle, each 
 end being narrower, and about ten feet high : on the farther 
 side of this house, opposite the entrance, stood two wooden 
 images, cut out of one piece, with pedestals, in all about 
 three feet high, neither very indifferently designed or executed, 
 which were said to be representations of goddesses. On the 
 head of one of them was a carved helmet, not unlike those 
 worn by the ancient warriors ; and on that of the other a 
 cylindrical cap, resembling the head-dress at Otaheite, called 
 
346 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 tomou ; and both of them had pieces of cloth tied about the 
 loins, and hanging a considerable way down. At the side 
 of each was also a piece of carved wood, with bits of the 
 cloth hung on them in the same manner ; and between or 
 before the pedestals lay a quantity of fern, in a heap, which 
 it was obvious had been deposited there piece by piece, and 
 at different times. 
 
 In the middle of the house, and before the two images, 
 tvas an oblong space, enclosed by a low edging of stones, 
 and covered with shreds of the cloth so often mentioned ; 
 this, on inquiry, we found was the grave of seven chiefs, 
 whose names were enumerated. Our guides informed us 
 that the horrid practice of offering human sacrifices pre- 
 vailed in the island, and we found direct evidence of the 
 truth of his statement. 
 
 After we had examined very carefully everything that was 
 to be seen about the morai, and Mr. Webber had taken 
 drawings of it and of the adjoining country, we returned by 
 a different route. I found a great crowd assembled at the 
 beach, and a brisk trade for pigs, fowls, and roots going on 
 there with the greatest good order, though I did not observe 
 any particular person who took the lead amongst the rest of 
 his countrymen. At noon I went on board to dinner, and 
 then sent Mr. King to command the party ashore. He was 
 to have gone upon that service in the morning, but was 
 detained in the ship, making lunar observations. In the 
 afternoon I landed again, accompanied by Captain Gierke, 
 and at sunset brought everybody on board, having procured, 
 in the course of the day, nine tons of water, and by exchanges, 
 chiefly for nails and pieces of iron, about seventy or eighty 
 pigs, a few fowls, a quantity of potatoes, and a few plantains 
 and taro roots. 
 
 Among the articles which they brought to barter this day, 
 we noticed a particular sort of cloak and cap, which, even in 
 countries where dress is more particularly attended to, might 
 be reckoned elegant. The first are nearly of the size and 
 shape of the short cloaks worn by the women in England, 
 and by the men in Spain, reaching to the middle of the back, 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 347 
 
 and tied loosely before ; the ground is a network, upon which 
 the most beautiful red and yellow feathers are so closely fixed, 
 that the surface might be compared to the thickest and 
 richest velvet, which they resemble, both as to feel and 
 glossy appearance. The manner of varying the mixture is 
 very different ; some having triangular spaces of red and 
 yellow alternately, others a kind of crescent, and some that 
 were entirely red, had a broad yellow border, which made 
 them appear at some distance exactly like a scarlet cloak 
 edged with gold lace. The brilliant colours of the feathers, 
 in those that happened to be new, added not a little to their 
 fine appearance ; and we found that they were in high esti- 
 mation with their owners, for they would not at first part 
 with one of them for anything that we offered, asking no less 
 a price than a musket. However, some were afterwards 
 purchased for very large nails. 
 
 The cap is made almost exactly like a helmet, with the 
 middle part or crest sometimes of a hand's breadth, and it 
 sits very close upon the head, having notches to admit the 
 ears. It is a frame of twigs and osiers, covered with a net- 
 work, into which are wrought feathers, in the same manner 
 as upon the cloaks, though rather closer, and less diversified; 
 the greater part being red, with some black, yellow, or green 
 stripes on the side, following the carve direction of the crest. 
 These, probably, complete the dress, with the cloaks ; for the 
 natives sometimes appeared in both together.* 
 
 On the 22nd the surf broke so high upon the shore that we 
 could not land in our boats ; but the natives ventured in 
 their canoes, and bartered some hogs and roots. One of our 
 visitors, on this occasion, who offered some fish-hooks for 
 sale, was observed to have a very small parcel tied to the 
 string of one of them, which he separated with great care, 
 and reserved for himself when he parted with the hook. On 
 seeing him so anxious to conceal the contents of this parcel, 
 he was requested to open it, which he did with great reluct- 
 ance and some difficulty, as it was wrapped up in many folds 
 
 ♦ These articles may be seen in the British Museum, and irrespective of their 
 intrinsic worth, are interesting relics of the great navigator. 
 
348 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 of cloth. We found that it contained a thin piece of human 
 flesh, and that these people eat their enemies, using a small 
 wooden instrument set with sharks' teeth, for the purpose of 
 dissecting the bodies ; indeed, one old man, upon being 
 questioned as to whether they eat human flesh, answered in 
 the affirmative, and laughed, seemingly, at the simplicity of 
 such a question. He also said it was excellent food, or, as 
 he expressed it, " savoury eating." 
 
 At seven o'clock in the evening the boats returned with 
 two tons of water, a few hogs, a quantity of plantains, and 
 some roots. Mr. King informed me that a great number of 
 the inhabitants were at the watering or landing place, having 
 come, as he supposed, from all parts of the island for the 
 purpose of barter. 
 
 The ships quitted Atooi, as the natives called the island, on 
 the 23rd of January, but owing to the prevalence of light airs 
 and calms, were forced on the 29th to anchor oif a village on 
 the neighbouring island of Oneehow, where Captain Cook 
 hoped to lay in a supply of fresh water. Six or seven canoes 
 (says Captain Cook) came off to us before we anchored, 
 bringing some small pigs and potatoes, and many yams and 
 mats. The people in them resembled those of Atooi, and 
 seemed to be equally well acquainted with the use of iron, 
 which they asked for by the names of " hamaite " and " toe," 
 parting eagerly with all their commodities for pieces of this 
 * precious metal. Several more canoes soon reached the ships 
 after they had anchored ; but the natives in these seemed to 
 have no other object than to pay us a formal visit. Many of 
 them came readily on board, crouching down upon the deck, 
 and not quitting that humble posture till they were desired 
 to get up. They had brought several females with them, 
 who remained alongside in the canoes, behaving with less 
 modesty than their countrywomen of Atooi, and at times all 
 joining in a song, not remarkable for its melody, though 
 performed in very exact concert, by beating time upon their 
 breasts with their hands. The men who had come on board 
 did not stay long, and they lay down on the deck locks of 
 their hair. 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 349 
 
 On the 30th I sent Mr. Gore ashore with a guard of 
 marines and a party to trade with the natives for pro- 
 visions. I intended to have followed soon after, and went 
 from the ship with that design. But the surf had increased 
 so much by this time, that I was fearful, if I got ashore, I 
 should not be able to get off again. This really happened to 
 our people who had landed with Mr. Gore, the communi- 
 cation between them and the ships to our own boats being 
 stopped. In the evening they made a signal for the boats, 
 which were sent accordingly, and not long after they returned 
 with a few yams and some salt. 
 
 The violence of the surf, which our own boats could not 
 act against, did not hinder the natives from coming off to 
 the ships in their canoes with provisions, which were pur- 
 chased in exchange for nails and pieces of iron hoops ; and 
 I distributed many pieces of ribbon and some buttons, as 
 bracelets, among the women in their canoes. 
 
 About ten or eleven o'clock at night the wind veered to 
 the south, and the sky seemed to forebode a storm. With 
 such appearances, thinking we were rather too near the 
 shore, I ordered the anchors to be hove up, and having 
 moved the ships into forty-two fathoms, came to again in 
 this safer station. The precaution, however, proved to be 
 unnecessary ; for the wind, soon after, veered to north-east, 
 from which quarter it blew a fresh gale, with squalls, 
 attended with heavy showers of rain. This weather con- 
 tinued all the next day, and the sea ran so high, that we had 
 no communication with our party on shore, and even the 
 natives themselves durst not venture out to the ships in their 
 canoes. In the evening I sent the master in a boat up to 
 the south-east head or point of the island to try if he could 
 land under it. He returned with a favourable report ; but it 
 was too late now to send for our party till the next morning ; 
 and thus they had another night to improve their intercourse 
 with the natives. Encouraged by the master's report, I sent 
 a boat to the south-east point as soon as daylight returned, 
 with an order to Mr. Gore that, if he could not embark his 
 people from the spot where they now were, to march them 
 
350 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 up to the point. As the boat could not get to the beach, one 
 of the crew swam ashore and carried the order. On the 
 return of the boat, I went myself with the pinnace and launch 
 up to the point, to bring the party on board ; and being 
 very desirous of benefiting these poor people by furnishing 
 them with additional articles of food, took with me a ram 
 and two ewes, a boar and sow of the English breed, and the 
 seeds of melons, pumpkins, and onions. I landed with the 
 greatest ease under the west side of the point, and found my 
 party already there, with some of the natives in company. 
 To one of them, whom Mr. Gore had observed assuming some 
 command over the rest, I gave the goats, pigs, and seeds. 
 
 While the people were engaged in filling the water-casks 
 from a small stream occasioned by the late rain, I walked 
 a little way up the country, attended by the man above 
 mentioned, and followed by two others, carrying the two pigs. 
 As soon as we got on a rising ground, I stopped to look 
 round me, and observed a woman, on the opposite side of 
 the valley where I landed, calling to her countrymen who 
 attended me. Upon this the chief began to mutter something, 
 which I supposed was a prayer, and the two men who carried 
 the pigs continued to walk round me all the time, making 
 at least a dozen circuits before the other had finished his 
 oration. ^ 
 
 This ceremony being performed we proceeded, and pre- 
 sently met people coming from all parts, who, on being called 
 by my attendants, threw themselves prostrate on their faces 
 till I was out of sight. The ground through which I passed 
 was in a state of nature, very stony, and the soil seemed poor. 
 It was, however, covered with shrubs and plants, which per- 
 fumed the air with a more delicious fragrance than I had 
 ever met with at any of the other islands visited by us in this 
 ocean. The habitations of the natives were thinly scattered 
 about, and it was supposed there could not be more than 
 500 people upon the island, as the greater part were 
 seen at the marketing-place of our party, and few found 
 about the houses by those who walked up the country. Our 
 people who had been obliged to remain on shore had an 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 351 
 
 opportunity of observing the method of hving amongst the 
 natives, and it appeared to be decent and cleanly. They did 
 not, however, see any instances of the men and women eating 
 together, and the latter seemed generally associated together 
 in companies. It was found that they used the oily nuts of 
 the " dooe dooe," which are stuck upon a kind of skewer and 
 burnt as candles, and that they baked their hogs in ovens, 
 as at Otaheite. They also met with a positive proof of the 
 existence of the taboo (or, as they pronounce it, tafoo), for 
 one woman fed another who was under that interdiction. 
 They also observed some mysterious ceremonies. 
 
 After the water-casks had been filled and conveyed into 
 the boats, and we had purchased from the natives a few roots, 
 a little salt, and some salted fish, I returned on board with 
 all the people, and on the 2nd of February we stood away to 
 the northward, in prosecution of our voyage. Thus, after 
 spending more time about these islands than was necessary 
 for all our purposes, we were obliged to leave them before 
 we had completed our water. Our ship procured from them 
 provisions sufficient to last for three weeks at least. And 
 Captain Gierke, more fortunate than us, got a supply of vege- 
 tables that lasted his people upwards of two months. 
 
 It is worthy of observation that the islands in the Pacific 
 Ocean which these voyages have added to the geography of 
 the globe, have been generally found lying in groups or 
 clusters, the single intermediate islands as yet discovered 
 being few in proportion to the others, though, probably, there 
 are many more of them still unknown, which serve as steps 
 between the several clusters. Of what number this newly- 
 discovered archipelago consists, must be left to future investi- 
 gation. We saw five of them, whose names, as given to us 
 by the natives, are Woahoo, Atooi, Oneeheow, Oreehoua, and 
 Tahoora. I named the group the Sandwich Islands, in honour 
 of the Earl of Sandwich. Atooi, which is the largest of these 
 islands, is at least ten leagues in length from east to west. 
 
 The inhabitants are vigorous, active, and most expert 
 swimmers ; leaving their canoes upon the most trifling occa- 
 sion, they dive under them and swim to others, though at 
 
352 COOJCS VOYAGES, 
 
 a great distance. It was very amusing to see women with 
 infants at the breast, when the surf was so high that they 
 could not land in the canoes, leap overboard and, without 
 endangering their little ones, swim to the shore, through a 
 heavy sea. 
 
 They seem to be blessed with a frank, cheerful dispo- 
 sition, and to live very sociably in their intercourse with one 
 another, and, except the propensity to thieving, which seems 
 innate in most of the people we have visited in this ocean, 
 they were exceedingly friendly to us, and on all occasions 
 appeared deeply impressed with a consciousness of their 
 own inferiority. It was a pleasure to see with how much 
 affection the women managed their infants, and how readily 
 the men lent their assistance to such a tender office ; thus 
 sufficiently distinguishing themselves from those savages who 
 esteem a wife and child as things rather necessary than 
 desirable, or worthy of their notice. 
 
 The hair in both sexes is cut in different forms, and the 
 general fashion, especially among the women, is to have it 
 long before, and short behind. The men often had it cut or 
 shaved on each side, in such a manner that the remaining 
 part in some measure resembled the crest of their caps or 
 helmets, formerly described. Both sexes, however, seem very 
 careless about their hair, and have nothing like combs to 
 dress it with. Instances of wearing it in a singular manner 
 were sometimes met with among the men, who twist it 
 into a number of separate parcels, like the tails of a wig, 
 each about the thickness of a finger, though the greater 
 part of these, which are so long that they reach far down 
 the back, were artificially fixed upon the head over their 
 own hair. Both sexes adorn themselves with necklaces 
 made of bunches of small black cord, or many strings of 
 very small shells, or of the dried flowers of the Indian 
 mallow ; and sometimes a small human image of bone, 
 about three inches long, neatly polished, is hung round the 
 neck. The women also wear bracelets of a single shell, pieces 
 of black wood, with bits of ivory interspersed, well polished, 
 and fixed by a string drawn very closely through them ; 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 353 
 
 or others, of hogs' teeth laid parallel to each other, with the 
 concave side outward and the points cut off, fastened together 
 as the former, some of which, made only of large boars' tusks, 
 being very elegant. The men sometimes wear plumes of the 
 tropic-bird's feathers stuck in their heads ; or those of cocks, 
 fastened round neat polished sticks two feet long, commonly 
 decorated at the lower part with oora ; and for the same 
 purpose the skin of a white dog's tail is sewed over a stick 
 with its tuft at the end. They also frequently wear on the 
 head a kind of ornament of a finger's thickness or more, 
 covered with red and yellow feathers, curiously varied and 
 tied behind, and on the arm above the elbow, a kind of broad 
 shell-work grounded upon net-work. 
 
 Though they seem to have adopted the mode of living in 
 villages, there is no proportion as to the size of their houses, 
 some being large and commodious, from forty to fifty feet 
 long, and from twenty to thirty broad, while others of them 
 are mere hovels. The entrance is made indifferently at the 
 end or ^side, and is an oblong hole, so low that one must 
 rather creep than walk in, and is often shut up by a board of 
 planks fastened together, which serves as a door ; no light 
 enters the house but at this opening, and though such close 
 habitations may afford a comfortable retreat in bad weathei^, 
 they seem but ill-adapted to the warmth of the climate. 
 They are, however, kept remarkably clean, and their floors 
 are covered with a large quantity of dried grass, over which 
 they spread mats to sit and sleep upon. At one end stands 
 a bench about three feet high, on which their household 
 utensils are placed. These consist of gourd-shells, which 
 they convert into vessels that serve as bottles to hold water, 
 and as baskets to contain their victuals and other things, with 
 covers of the same, and a few wooden bowls and trenchers of 
 different sizes. 
 
 The only musical instruments which we observed here were 
 of an exceedingly rude kind. One of them does not produce 
 a more melodious sound than a child's rattle ; it consists of 
 what may be called a conic cap inverted, but scarcely 
 hollowed at the base, above a foot high, made of a coarse 
 
35'4 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 sedge-like plant, the upper part of which, and the edges, are 
 ornamented with beautiful red feathers, and to the point or 
 lower part is fixed a gourd-shell larger than the fist. Into 
 this is put something to rattle, which is done by holding the 
 instrument by the small part, and shaking or rather moving 
 it from place to place briskly, either to different sides or 
 backward or forward just before the face, striking the breast 
 with the other hand at the same time. The other musical 
 instrument (if either of them deserve the name) was a hollow 
 vessel of wood, like a platter, combined with the use of the 
 sticks, on which one of our gentlemen saw a man performing. 
 He held one of the sticks, about two feet long, as we do a 
 fiddle, with one hand, and struck it with the other, which was 
 smaller, and resembled a drum-stick, in a quicker or slower 
 measure ; at the same time beating with his foot upon the 
 hollow vessel that lay inverted upon the ground, and thus 
 producing a tune that was by no means disagreeable. The 
 music was accompanied by the vocal performance of some 
 women, whose song had a pleasing and tender effect. 
 
 In everything manufactured by these people, there appears 
 to be an uncommon degree of neatness and ingenuity. Cloth 
 is the principal manufacture, and they fabricate a great many 
 white mats, with red stripes and other figures interwoven on 
 one side. 
 
 They stain their gourd- shells prettily with undulated lines, 
 triangles, and other figures of a black colour, and they seem 
 to possess the art of varnishing, for some of these stained 
 gourd-shells are covered with a kind of lacquer, and they use a 
 strong size or gluey substance to fasten their things together. 
 Their wooden dishes or bowls, out of which they drink their 
 ava, are as neat as if made in our turnery lathe, and perhaps 
 better polished, and amongst their articles of handicraft may 
 be reckoned small square fans of mat or wicker-work, with 
 handles tapering from fehem of the same, or of wood, which 
 are neatly wrought with small cords of hair, and fibres of 
 the cocoa-nut coir intermixed. The great variety of fishing- 
 hooks are ingeniously made, some of bone, others of wood 
 pointed with bone, and many of pearl shells. The bones are 
 
T-HE THIRD VOYAGE. 355 
 
 mostly small, and composed of two pieces, and all the dif- 
 ferent sorts have a barb, either on the inside like ours, or on 
 the outside opposite the same part, but others have both, the 
 outer one being farthest from the point. Of this last sort 
 one was procured, nine inches long, of a single piece of bone, 
 which doubtless belonged to some large fish. The elegant 
 form and polish of this could not certainly be outdone by 
 any European artist, even if he should add all his knowledge 
 in design to the number and convenience of his tools. Their 
 hatchets, or rather adzes, are either made of blackish stone, 
 or of a clay-coloured one ; they have also little instruments 
 made of a single shark's tooth, some of which are fixed to 
 the fore-part of a dog's jaw-bone, and others to a thin wooden 
 handle of the same shape, having at the other end a bit of 
 string fastened through a small perforation. 
 
 Their canoes in general are about twenty-four feet long, 
 and have the bottom, for the most part, formed of a single 
 piece or log of wood, hollowed out to the thickness of an inch, 
 or an inch and a half, and brought to a point at each end. 
 The sides consist of three boards, each about an inch thick, 
 and neatly fitted and lashed to the bottom part. The 
 extremities, both at head and stern, are a little raised, and 
 both are made sharp, somewhat like a wedge, but they 
 flatten more abruptly, so that the two side-boards join each 
 other, side by side, for more than a foot. As they are not 
 more than fifteen or eighteen inches broad, those that go 
 single (for they sometimes join them as at the other islands), 
 have outriggers, which are shaped and fitted with more 
 judgment than any I had before seen. They are rowed by 
 paddles, such as we had generally met with, and some of 
 them have a light triangular sail, like those of the Friendly 
 Islands, extended to a mast and boom. The ropes used for 
 their boats, and the smaller cord for their fishing-tackle, are 
 strong and well made. 
 
 Though I did not see a chief of any note, there were, 
 however, several, as the natives informed us, who reside upon 
 Atooi, and to whom they prostrate themselves as a mark of 
 submission. After I had left the island, one of these great 
 
356 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 men made his appearance, and paid a visit to Captain Gierke 
 on board the Discovery, He came off in a double canoe, 
 and, like the king of the Friendly Islands, paid no regard to 
 the small canoes that happened to lie in his way, but ran 
 against or over them ; and it was not possible for these poor 
 people to avoid him, for they could not manage their canoes, 
 it being a necessary mark of their submission that they 
 should he down when he passed. His attendants helped 
 him into the ship, and placed him in the gangway. Their 
 care of him did not cease there, for they stood round him, 
 holding each other by the hands, nor would they suffer 
 anyone to come near him but Captain Clerke himself. He 
 was a young man, clothed from head to foot, and was 
 accompanied by a young woman, supposed to be his wife. 
 Captain Clerke made him some suitable presents, and re- 
 ceived from him in return a large bowl, supported by two 
 figures of men, the carving of which, both as to the design 
 and the execution, showed some degree of skill. Captain 
 Clerke could not prevail upon this great man to go below, 
 nor to move from the place where his attendants had first 
 fixed him. After staying some time in the ship, he was 
 carried again into his canoe, and returned to the island, 
 receiving the same honours from all the natives as when he 
 came on board. The next day several messages were sent 
 to Captain Clerke, inviting him to return the visit ashore, 
 and acquainting him that the chief had prepared a large 
 present on that occasion. But, being anxious to get to sea 
 and join the Resolutio7i, he did not think it advisable to 
 accept the invitation. 
 
 Besides their spears or lances, made of a fine chestnut- 
 coloured wood, beautifully polished — some of which are 
 barbed at one end and flattened to a point at the other — 
 they had a sort of weapon which we had never seen before, 
 and not mentioned by any navigator as used by the natives 
 of the South Sea. It is somewhat like a dagger, in general 
 about a foot and a half long, sharpened at one or both ends, 
 and secured to the hand by a string. Its use is to stab in 
 close fight, and it seems well adapted to the purpose. Some 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 357 
 
 of these may be called double daggers, having a handle in 
 the middle, with which they are better enabled to strike 
 different ways. They have also bows and arrows, but, both 
 from their apparent security and their slender make, it may 
 almost be presumed that they never use them in battle. The 
 knife or saw formerly mentioned, with which they dissect the 
 dead bodies, may also be ranked amongst their weapons, as 
 they both strike and cut with it when closely engaged. It is 
 a small flat wooden instrument, of an oblong shape, about a 
 foot long, rounded at the corners, with a handle almost like 
 one sort of the patoos of New Zealand, but its edges are 
 entirely surrounded with sharks' teeth, strongly fixed to it, 
 and pointing outward, having commonly a hole in the handle, 
 through which passes a long string, which is wrapped several 
 times round the wrist. 
 
 The people of Tongataboo inter their dead in a very decent 
 manner ; and they also inter their human sacrifices ; but 
 they do not offer or expose any other anirpal, or even vege- 
 tables, to their gods, as far as we know. Those of Otaheite 
 do not inter their dead, but expose them to waste by time 
 and putrefaction, though the bones are afterwards buried. 
 The people of Atooi, again, inter both their common dead 
 and human sacrifices, as at Tongataboo, but they resemble 
 those at Otaheite in the slovenly state of their religious 
 places, and in offering vegetables and animals to their gods. 
 
 If the Sandwich Islands had been discovered at an early 
 period by the Spaniards, there is little doubt that they would 
 have taken advantage of so excellent a situation, and have 
 made use of Atooi, or some other of the islands, as a re- 
 freshing place to the ships that sail annually from Acapulco 
 to Manilla, as they lie almost midway between the first place 
 and Guam, one of the Ladrones, which is, at present, their 
 only port in traversing this vast ocean. An acquaintance 
 with the Sandwich Islands would have been equally favour- 
 able to our buccaneers, who used sometimes to pass from the 
 coast of America to the Ladrones, with a stock of food and 
 water scarcely sufficient to preserve life. Here they might 
 have found plenty, and have been within a month's sail of 
 
358 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 the very port of California which the Manilla ship is obliged 
 to make, or else have returned to the coast of America, 
 thoroughly refitted, after an absence of two months. How 
 happy would Lord Anson have been, and what hardships 
 would he have avoided, had he known that there was a 
 group of islands half-way between America and Tinian, 
 where all his wants could have been effectually supplied. 
 
 On the 2nd of February we stood away to the northward, 
 and without meeting with anything memorable, on the 7th 
 of March the long-looked-for coast of New Albion was seen, 
 extending from north-east to south-east, distance ten or 
 twelve leagues. The land appeared to be of moderate height, 
 diversified with hills and valleys, and almost everywhere 
 covered with wood. 
 
 After coasting along, and combating contrary winds, on 
 the 29th we anchored in eighty-five fathoms of water, so near 
 the shore as to reach it with a hawser. We no sooner drew 
 near the inlet than we found the coast to be inhabited, and 
 three canoes came off to the ship. In one of these were 
 two men, in another six, and in the third ten. Having come 
 pretty near us, a person in one of the two last stood up and 
 made a long harangue, inviting us to land, as we guessed 
 by his gestures ; at the same time he kept strewing handfuls 
 of feathers towards us, and some of his companions threw 
 handfuls of a red dust powder in the same manner. The 
 person who played the orator wore the skin of some animal, 
 and held, in each hand, something which rattled as he kept 
 shaking it. After tiring himself with his repeated exhorta- 
 tions, of which we did not understand a word, he was quiet ; 
 and then others took it up, by turns, to say something ; 
 though they acted their part neither so long nor with so 
 much vehemence as the other. We observed that two or 
 three had their hair quite strewed over with small white 
 feathers, and others had large ones stuck in different parts 
 of the head. After the tumultuous noise had ceased, they 
 lay at a little distance from the ship, and conversed with 
 each other in a very easy manner ; nor did they seem to 
 show the least surprise or distrust. Some of them now and 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 359 
 
 then got up, and said something after the manner of their 
 first harangues ; and one sang a very agreeable air, with a 
 degree of softness and melody that we could not have ex- 
 pected. The breeze, which soon after sprang up, bringing 
 us nearer the shore, the canoes began to come off in greater 
 numbers, and we had at one time thirty-two of them near 
 the ship, carrying from three to seven or eight persons each, 
 both men and women. Several of these stood up in their 
 canoes, haranguing and making gestures, after the manner 
 of our first visitors. One canoe was remarkable for a 
 singular head, which had a bird's eye and bill of an 
 enormous size painted on it ; and a person in it, who 
 seemed to be a chief, was no less remarkable for his un- 
 common appearance, having many feathers hanging from 
 his head, and being painted in an extraordinary manner. 
 He held in his hand a carved bird, of wood, as large as a 
 pigeon, with which he rattled, as the person first mentioned 
 had done ; and was no less vociferous in his harangue, which 
 was attended with some expressive gestures. 
 
 Though our visitors behaved very peaceably, and could not 
 be suspected of any hostile intention, we could not prevail 
 upon any of them to come on board. They showed great 
 readiness, however, to part with anything they had, and 
 took from us whatever we offered them in exchange, but 
 were more desirous of iron than of any other of our articles 
 of commerce, appearing to be perfectly acquainted with the 
 use of that metal. Many of the canoes followed us to our 
 anchoring-place, and a group of ten or a dozen of them 
 remained alongside the Resolutio7t most part of the night. 
 
 These circumstances gave us a reasonable ground of hope 
 that we should find this a comfortable station to supply all 
 our wants, and to make us forget the hardships and delays 
 experienced during a constant succession of adverse winds 
 and boisterous weather, almost ever since our arrival on 
 the coast of America. After coming to an anchor on the 
 following morning, I lost no time in endeavouring to find a 
 commodious harbour, where we might station ourselves 
 during our continuance in the Sound. Accordingly, I sent 
 
36o COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 three armed boats, under the command of Mr. King, and 
 soon after I went myself in a small boat on the same search. 
 I had very little trouble in finding what we wanted. On the 
 north-west of the arm we were now in, I found a convenient 
 snug cove, well suited to our purpose ; and that no time 
 might be lost, I employed the remainder of the day in having 
 the sails unbent, the top-mast struck, and the fore-mast of 
 the Resolution unrigged, in order to effect a thorough refit. 
 
 A great many canoes, filled with the natives, were about 
 the ship all day, and a trade commenced betwixt us and 
 them, which was carried on with the strictest honesty on both 
 sides. The articles which they offered for sale were skins of 
 various animals, such as bears, wolves, foxes, deer, racoons, 
 pole-cats, and martins, and, in particular, that of the sea-otter, 
 which are found at the islands of Kamtschatka. Besides the 
 undressed skins, they also brought garments made of them, 
 and another sort of clothing made of the bark of a tree, or some 
 plant like hemp ; weapons, such as bows, arrows, and spears ; 
 fish-hooks, and instruments of various kinds ; wooden vizors 
 of many different monstrous figures ; a sort of woollen stuff, 
 or blanketing ; bags filled with red ochre ; pieces of carved 
 work, beads, and several other little ornaments of thin brass' 
 and iron, shaped like a horse-shoe, which hung at their noses ; 
 and several chisels, or pieces of iron fixed to handles. From 
 their possessing such metal, we inferred that they had either 
 been visited before by some civilised nation, or had connec- 
 tions with tribes on the continent, who had communication 
 with them. But the most extraordinary of all the articles 
 which they brought to the ships for sale, were human skulls 
 and hands, not yet quite stripped of the flesh, which they made 
 our people plainly to understand they had eaten ; and, indeed^ 
 some of them had evident marks that they had been upon 
 the fire. For the various articles which they brought, they 
 took in exchange knives, chisels, pieces of iron and tin, 
 nails, looking-glasses, buttons, or any kind of metal. Glass 
 beads they were not fond of, and cloth of every sort they 
 rejected. 
 
 We employed the next day in hauling our ships into the 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 361 
 
 cove, where they were moored head and stern, fastening our 
 hawsers to the trees on shore. On heaving up the anchor of 
 the Resoltitio7i we found, notwithstanding the great depth of 
 water in which it was let go, that there were rocks at the 
 bottom. These had done some considerable damage to the 
 cable, and the hawsers that were carried out to warp the 
 ship into the cove also got foul of rocks, from which it ap- 
 peared that the whole bottom was strewed with them. The 
 ship being again very leaky in her upper works, I ordered 
 the carpenter to caulk her, and to repair such other defects 
 as on examination he might discover. 
 
 The fame of our arrival brought a great concourse of the 
 natives to our ships in the course of this day. We counted 
 above a hundred canoes at one time, which might be sup- 
 posed to contain on an average five persons in each, for few 
 of them had less than three on board, great numbers had 
 seven, eight, or nine, and one was manned with no less than 
 seventeen. Among these visitors many now favoured us 
 with their company for the first time, which we could guess 
 from their approaching the ships with their orations and 
 other ceremonies. If they had any distrust or fear of us at 
 first, they now appeared to have laid it aside, for they came 
 on board and mixed with our people with the greatest free- 
 dom. We soon discovered by this nearer intercourse that 
 they were as light-fingered as any of our friends in the 
 islands we had visited in the course of the voyage ; and 
 they were far more dangerous thieves, for, possessing sharp 
 iron instruments, they could cut a hook from a tackle, or 
 any other piece of iron from a rope, as soon as our backs 
 were turned. In this manner we lost a large hook weighing 
 between twenty and thirty pounds, several smaller ones, and 
 other articles of iron. As to our boats, they stripped them 
 of every bit of iron that was worth carrying away, though 
 we had always men left in them as a guard. They were 
 dexterous enough in effecting their purpose, for one fellow 
 would contrive to amuse the boat-keeper at one end of a 
 boat while another was pulling out the iron-work at the 
 other. If we missed a thing immediately after it had been 
 
362 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 stolen, we found little difficulty in detecting the thief, as they 
 were ready enough to impeach one another ; but the guilty 
 person generally relinquished his prize with reluctance, and 
 sometimes we found it necessary to have recourse to force. 
 
 The ships being securely moored, on the following day 
 the observatories were carried ashore and placed upon an 
 elevated rock on one side of the cove, close to the Resolution, 
 A party of men, with an officer, was sent to cut wood and to 
 clear a place for the convenience of watering ; others were 
 employed to brew spruce-beer, as pine-trees abounded here. 
 The forge was also set up, to make the iron-work wanting 
 for the repairs of the fore-mast, for, besides one of the bibs"^ 
 being defective, the larboard trestle-tree and one of the 
 cross-trees were sprung. 
 
 A considerable number of the natives visited us daily, and 
 occasionally we saw new faces. On their first coming they 
 generally went through a singular mode of introducing them- 
 selves. They would paddle, with all their strength, quite 
 round both ships, a chief, or other principal person in the 
 canoe, standing up with a spear or some other weapon in his 
 hand, and speaking or hallooing all the time. Sometimes 
 the orator of the canoe would have his face covered with a 
 mask, representing either a human visage or that of some 
 animal, and, instead of a weapon, would hold a rattle in his 
 hand, as before described. After making this circuit round 
 the ships, they would come alongside and begin to trade 
 without further ceremony. Very often, indeed, they would 
 first give us a song, in which all in the canoes joined, with 
 a very pleasing harmony. 
 
 During these visits they gave us no other trouble than to 
 guard against their thievish tricks. In the morning of the 
 4th we had a serious alarm. Our party on shore, who were 
 employed in cutting wood and getting water, observed that 
 
 *Bibs, or bibbs, are pieces of timber bolted to the "hounds" of a mast, to 
 support the trestle-trees, which may be described as two strong bars of timber 
 fixed horizontally fore and aft on each side of the lower-masthead to support 
 the top-mast, lower cross-trees, and top. The "hounds," called also " cheeks" 
 with lower-masts, are projections at the mast-head which support the trestle-trees. 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 363 
 
 the natives all around them were arming themselves in the 
 best manner they could, those who were not possessed of 
 proper weapons preparing sticks and collecting stones. On 
 hearing this I thought it prudent to arm also, but, being 
 determined to act upon the defensive, I ordered our work- 
 men to retreat to the rock upon which we had placed our 
 observatories, leaving the natives in quiet possession of 
 the ground. These hostile preparations were not directed 
 against us, but against a body of their own countrymen, who 
 were coming to fight them ; and our friends of the Sound, 
 on observing our apprehensions, used their best endeavours 
 to convince us that this was the case. We could see that 
 they had people looking out on each point of the cove, and 
 canoes frequently passed between them and the main body 
 assembled near the ships. At length the adverse party, in 
 about a dozen large canoes, appeared off the south point of 
 the cove, when they stopped, and lay drawn up in a line of 
 battle, a negotiation having commenced. Some people in 
 canoes, in conducting the treaty, passed between the two 
 parties, and there was some speaking on both sides. At 
 length the difference, whatever it was, seemed to be com- 
 promised, but the strangers were not allowed to come along- 
 side the ships, nor to have any trade or intercourse with us. 
 We resumed our work in the afternoon, and the next day 
 rigged the fore-mast, the head of which being rather too 
 small for the cap, the carpenter went to work to fix a piece 
 on one side, to fill up the vacant space. In cutting into the 
 mast-head for this purpose, and examining the state of it, 
 both cheeks were found to be so rotten that there was no 
 possibility of repairing them, and it became necessary to 
 hoist the mast out and fix new cheeks upon it. It was 
 evident that one of them had been defective at the first, 
 and that the unsound part had been cut out and a piece 
 put in, which had not only weakened the mast-head, but 
 had, in a great measure, been the occasion of rotting every 
 other part of both cheeks. Thus, when we were almost 
 ready to put to sea, we had all our work to do over again ; 
 and, what was still more provoking, an additional repair was 
 
564 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 to be completed ; but, as there was no remedy, we imme- 
 diately set about it. It was fortunate for the voyage that 
 these defects were discovered when we were in a place 
 where the materials requisite were to be procured ; for 
 amongst the drift-wood in the cove where the ships lay 
 were some small seasoned trees, very fit for our purpose. 
 One of these was pitched upon, and the carpenters 
 began, without loss of time, to make out of it two new 
 cheeks. 
 
 On the morning of the 7th we got the fore-mast out, and 
 hauled it ashore, and the carpenters of the ships were set to 
 work upon it. Some parts of the lower standing rigging having 
 been found to be very much decayed, as we had time now 
 to put them in order, while the carpenters were repairing 
 the fore-mast, I ordered a new set of main-rigging to be 
 fitted, and a more perfect set of fore-rigging to be selected 
 out of the best parts of the old. 
 
 From the time of our putting into the Sound till now, the 
 weather had been exceedingly fine, without either wind or 
 rain, but on the morning of the 8th the wind freshened at 
 south-east, attended with thick hazy weather and rain ; and, 
 according to the old proverb, misfortunes seldom come 
 singly. The mizzen was now the only mast on board the 
 Resolutio7i that remained rigged, with its top-mast up ; but 
 the former was so defective that it could not support the 
 latter during the violence of the squalls, but gave way at 
 the head, under the rigging. About eight o'clock the gale 
 abated, but the rain continued, with very little intermission, 
 for several days ; and that the carpenters might be enabled 
 to proceed in their labours while it prevailed, a tent was 
 erected over the fore-mast, where they could work with some 
 degree of convenience. The bad weather which now came 
 on did not, however, hinder the natives from visiting us 
 daily ; and they frequently brought us a tolerable supply 
 of fish — either sardines, or what resembled them much, a 
 small kind of bream, and sometimes small cod. 
 
 On the nth, notwithstanding the rainy weather, the main- 
 rigging was fixed and got overhead ; and on the following 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 365 
 
 day we were employed taking down the mizzen-mast, the 
 head of which proved to be so rotten that it dropped off 
 while in the slings. In the evening we were visited by a 
 tribe of natives, whom we had never seen before, and who, 
 in general, were better-looking people than most of our 
 old friends, some of whom attended them. I prevailed 
 upon these visitors to go down into the cabin for the first 
 time, and observed that there was not a single object that 
 fixed their attention for a moment, their countenances 
 marking that they looked upon all our novelties with the 
 utmost indifference : a few of them, however, showed a 
 certain degree of curiosity. 
 
 In the afternoon of the next day I went into the woods 
 with a party of our men, and cut down a tree for a mizzen- 
 mast, which on the day following was brought to the place 
 where the carpenters were employed upon the fore-mast. In 
 the evening the wind increased to a very hard gale, with 
 rain, which continued till eight o'clock the next morning, 
 when it abated. 
 
 The fore-mast being by this time finished, we hauled it 
 alongside, but the bad weather prevented our fitting it in 
 till the afternoon. We set about rigging it with the greatest 
 expedition, while the carpenters were going on with the 
 mizzen-mast on shore. They had made very considerable 
 progress in it on the i6th, when they discovered that it was 
 sprung, or wounded, owing, probably, to some accident in 
 cutting it down ; so that all their labour was thrown away, 
 and it became necessary to get another tree out of the woods, 
 which employed all hands above half a day. During these 
 various operations several of the natives, who were about the 
 ship, looked on with an expressive silent surprise, which we 
 did not expect from their general indifference and inattention. 
 
 On the 1 8th a party of strangers, in six or eight canoes, 
 came into the cove, where they remained looking at us for 
 some time, and then retired without coming alongside either 
 ship. We supposed that our old friends, who were more 
 numerous at this time about us than these new visitors, 
 would not permit them to have any intercourse with us. 
 
366 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 Nothing would go down with our visitors but metal, and 
 brass had by this time supplanted iron, being so eagerly 
 sought after that, before we left this place, hardly a bit of it 
 was left in the ships, except what belonged to our neces- 
 sary instruments. Whole suits of clothes were stripped of 
 every button, bureaus of their furniture, and copper kettles, 
 tin canisters, candlesticks, and the like, all went to wreck, so 
 that our American friends here got a greater medley and 
 variety of things from us than any other na.tion we had 
 visited in the course of our voyage. 
 
 After a fortnight's bad weather, the 19th proving a fair day, 
 we availed ourselves of it to get up the top-masts and yards, 
 and to fix the rigging. Having now finished most of our 
 heavy work, I set out the next morning to take a view of the 
 Sound. I first went to the west point, where I found a 
 large village, and before it a very snug harbour, in which was 
 from four to nine fathoms of water over a bottom of fine sand. 
 The people of this village, who were numerous, and to most 
 of whom I was well known, received me very courteously, 
 every one pressing me to go into his house, or rather his 
 apartment, for several families live under the same roof. 
 I did not decline the invitations ; and my hospitable friends 
 whom I visited spread a mat for me to sit down upon, and 
 showed me every other mark of civility. In most of the 
 houses were women at work, making dresses of the plant 
 or bark before mentioned, which they executed exactly in 
 the same manner that the New Zealanders manufacture 
 their cloth. Others were occupied in opening sardines, a 
 large quantity of which I had seen brought on shore from 
 canoes, and divided, by measure, amongst several people, 
 who carried them up to their houses, where the operation 
 of curing by smoke-drying is performed. They hang them 
 on small rods ; at first about a foot from the fire ; afterwards 
 they remove them higher and higher, to make room for 
 others, till the rods, on which the fish hang, reach the top 
 of the house. When they are completely dried they are 
 taken down and packed close in bales, which they cover 
 with mats. Thus they are kept till wanted, and are not a 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 367 
 
 disagreeable article of food. Cod and other large fish are 
 also cured in the same manner by them, though they some- 
 times dry them in the open air without fire. 
 
 From this village I proceeded up the west side of the 
 Sound, and found the remains of a deserted village. The 
 logs or framings of the houses were standing, but the boards 
 that had composed their sides and roofs did not exist. 
 Before this village were some large fishing weirs, composed 
 of pieces of wicker-work, made of small rods, some closer 
 than, others, according to the fish intended to be caught in 
 them. These pieces of wicker-work, some of whose super- 
 ficies are at least twenty feet by twelve, are fixed up edgewise 
 in the water, by strong poles or pickets that stand firm in 
 the ground. 
 
 From this place I crossed over to the other, or east side 
 of the Sound, and found, what I had before conjectured, that 
 the land under which the ships lay was an island, and that 
 there were many smaller ones lying scattered in the Sound, 
 on the west side of it. Opposite the north end of our large 
 island, upon the mainland, I obsei*ved a village, and there 
 I landed. The inhabitants of it were not so polite as those 
 of the other I had just visited, especially one surly chief, 
 who would not let me enter their houses, following me 
 wherever I went ; and several times, by expressive signs, 
 marking his impatience that I should be gone. I attempted 
 in vain to soothe him by presents, but though he did not 
 refuse them, they did not alter his behaviour. Some of the 
 young women, better pleased with us than our inhospitable 
 chief, dressed themselves expeditiously in their best apparel, 
 and assembling in a body, welcomed us to their village by 
 joining in a song, which was far from harsh or disagreeable. 
 
 The day being now far spent I proceeded to the ships, 
 and on my arrival was informed that, while I was absent, 
 the ships had been visited by some strangers, in two or three 
 large canoes, who, by signs, made our people to understand 
 that they came from the south-east, beyond the bay. They 
 brought several skins, garments, and other articles, which 
 they bartered ; but what was most singular, two silver table- 
 
368 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 spoons were purchased from them, which, from their pecuhar 
 shape^ were judged to be of Spanish manufacture. One of 
 these strangers wore them round his neck, by way of orna- 
 ment. These visitors also appeared to be more plentifully 
 supplied with iron than the inhabitants of the Sound. 
 
 On the 22nd, about eight o'clock, we were visited by a 
 number of strangers, in twelve or fourteen canoes. They drew 
 up in a body, and stopped above half an hour, about 200 or 
 300 yards from the ships, and after this introductory cere- 
 mony, advanced towards the ships standing up in their 
 canoes and singing ; some of the songs, in which the whole 
 body joined, were in a slow, and others in quicker time, and 
 they accompanied their notes with the most regular motions 
 of their hands, or beating in concert with their paddles on 
 the sides of the canoes, and making other very expressive 
 gestures. At the end of each song, they remained silent a 
 few seconds, and then began again, and at length, after 
 entertaining us with this specimen of their music, which we 
 listened to with admiration for above half an hour, they 
 came alongside the ships, and bartered what they had to 
 dispose of. 
 
 The inhabitants received us with the same demonstration 
 of friendship which I had experienced before ; and the 
 moment we landed I ordered some of our people to begin 
 their operations of cutting grass for our few remaining sheep 
 and goats. 
 
 When we had completed all our operations at this village, 
 the natives and we parted very good friends, and we got 
 back to the ships in the afternoon. The three following days 
 we were employed in getting ready to put to sea ; the sails 
 were bent, the observatories and instruments, brewing 
 vessels, and other things, were moved from the shore ; some 
 small spars for different uses, and pieces of timber, which 
 might be occasionally sawn into boards, were prepared and 
 taken on board, and both ships were cleared and put into a 
 sailing condition. 
 
 Everything being now ready, at noon of the 26th we cast 
 off the moorings, and with our boats towed the ships out of 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 369 
 
 the cove ; after this, we had variable light airs and calms, 
 till four in the afternoon, when a breeze sprung up northerly, 
 with very thick, hazy weather. The mercury in the baro- 
 meter fell unusually low, and we had every other forerunner 
 of an approaching ♦storm, which we had reason to expect 
 would be from the southward. This made me hesitate a 
 little, as night was at hand, whether I should venture to sail, 
 or wait till the next morning. But my anxious impatience to 
 proceed upon the voyage, and the fear of losing this oppor- 
 tunity of getting out of the Sound, making a greater impres- 
 sion on my mind than any apprehension of immediate 
 danger, I determined to put to sea at all events. 
 
 Our friend^ the natives attended us till we were almost 
 out of the Sound, some on board the ships, and others in 
 their canoes. One of the chiefs, who had some time before 
 attached himself to me, was among the last who left us ; 
 and, having received from him a handsome beaver-skin 
 cloak which he then wore, in return for some presents, I 
 gave him a new broadsword with a brass hilt, the possession 
 of which made him completely happy. 
 
 The common dress of the inhabitants of Nootka is a 
 flaxen garment, or mantle, ornamented on the upper edge 
 by a narrow strip of fur, and at the lower edge by fringes or 
 tassels. It passes under the left arm, and is tied over the 
 right shoulder by a string before and one behind near its 
 middle, by which means both arms are left free ; and it 
 hangs evenly, covering the left side, but leaving the right 
 open, unless when the mantle is fastened by a girdle of 
 coarse matting or wool round the waist, which is often done. 
 Over this, which reaches below the knees, is worn a small 
 cloak of the same substance, likewise fringed at the lower 
 part. In shape this resembles a round dish-cover, being 
 quite close, except in the middle, where there is a hole just 
 large enough to admit the head ; and then, resting upon the 
 shoulders, it covers the arms to the elbows, and the body as 
 far as the waist. Their head is covered with a cap, of the 
 figure of a truncated cone, or like a flower-pot, made of fine 
 matting, having the top frequently arnamented with a round 
 
370 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 or pointed knob, or bunch of leathern tassels \ and there is 
 a string that passes under the chin, to prevent its blowing 
 off. Besides the above dress, which is common to both 
 sexes, the men frequently throw over their other garments 
 the skin of a bear, wolf, or sea-otter, with the hair outward, 
 and tie it as a cloak near the upper part, wearing it some- 
 times before and sometimes behind. In rainy weather they 
 throw a coarse mat about their shoulders. They have also 
 woollen garments, which, however, are little in use. The 
 hair is commonly worn hanging down loose ; but some, when 
 they have no cap, tie it in a bunch on the crown of the head. 
 Their dress, upon the whole, is convenient, and would not be 
 inelegant were it kept clean. But as they rub their bodies 
 constantly over with a red paint, mixed with oil, their 
 garments by this means contract a rancid, offensive smell 
 and a greasy nastiness, so that they make a very wretched, 
 dirty appearance. 
 
 The ears of many of them are perforated in the lobe, 
 where they make a pretty large hole, and two others higher 
 up on the outer edge. In these holes they hang bits of 
 bone, quills fixed upon a leathern thong, small shells, 
 bunches of woollen tassels, or pieces of thin copper, which 
 our beads could never supplant. The septum of the nose 
 on many is also perforated, through which they draw a piece 
 of soft cord ; and some wear at the same place small thin 
 pieces of iron, brass, or copper, shaped almost like a horse- 
 shoe, the narrow opening of which receives the septum, so 
 that the two points may gently pinch it and the ornament 
 that hangs over the upper lip. The rings of our brass 
 buttons, which they eagerly purchased, were appropriated 
 to this use. About their wrists they wear bracelets or 
 bunches of white bugle beads, made of a conic shelly sub- 
 stance, bunches of thongs, with tassels, or a black, shiny, 
 horny substance, of one piece ; and about their ankles they 
 frequently wear many folds of leathern thongs, or the sinews 
 of animals twisted to a considerable thickness. On extra- 
 ordinary occasions they wear carved wooden masks or 
 visors, applied on the face or on the upper part of the head 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 371 
 
 or forehead. Some of these resemble human faces, furnished 
 with hair, beards, and eyebrows ; the others the heads of " 
 birds, particularly of eagles ; and many the heads of land and 
 sea animals, such as deer, wolves, porpoises, and others. 
 But, in general, these representations much exceed the natural 
 size, and they are painted and often strewed with pieces of 
 the foliaceous mica, which makes them glitter and sei'ves to 
 augment their enormous deformity. They even fix in the 
 same part of the head large pieces of carved work, resembling 
 the prow of a canoe, painted in the same manner, and pro- 
 jecting to a considerable distance. So fond are they of these 
 disguises, that I have seen one of them put his head into a 
 tin kettle he had got from us, for want of another sort of 
 mask. Whether they use these extravagant masquerade 
 ornaments on any particular religious occasion or diversions, 
 or whether they be put on to intimidate their enemies when 
 they go to battle, by their monstrous appearance, or as 
 decoys when they go to hunt animals, is uncertain. 
 
 The only dress amongst the people of Nootka observed 
 by us that seemed peculiarly adapted to war, is a thick 
 leathern mantle, doubled, which from its size appears to be 
 the tanned skin of an elk or buffalo. This they fasten on in 
 the common manner, and it is so contrived that it may reach 
 up and cover the breast quite to the throat, falling at the 
 same time almost to the heels. It is sometimes ingeniously 
 painted in different compartments, and is not only sufficiently 
 strong to resist arrows, but, as they informed us by signs, 
 even spears cannot pierce it. Upon the same occasions they 
 sometimes wear a kind of leathern cloak, covered with rows 
 of dried hoofs of deer, disposed horizontally, appended by 
 leathern thongs, covered with quills, which, when they move, 
 make a loud rattling noise, almost equal to that of many 
 small bells. 
 
 The only instruments of music, if such they may be called, 
 which I saw amongst them, were a rattle and a small whistle, 
 about an inch long, incapable of variation from having but 
 one hole. The rattles are, for the most part, made in the 
 shape of a bird, with a few pebbles in the belly, and the tail 
 
372 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 is the handle. They have others^ however, which bear more 
 resemblance to a child's rattle. 
 
 The houses are built of very long and broad planks, resting 
 upon the edges of each other, fastened or tied with withes of 
 pine-bark here and there, and have only slender posts, or 
 rather poles, at considerable distances, on the outside, to 
 which they are also tied, but within are some larger poles 
 placed aslant. The height of the sides and ends of these 
 habitations is seven or eight feet, but the back part is a little 
 higher, by which means the planks that compose the roof 
 slant forward, and are laid on loose, so as to be moved about 
 either to let in the light or carry out the smoke. They are, 
 however, upon the whole, miserable dwellings, and con- 
 structed with little care or ingenuity. There are no regular 
 doors into them, the only way of entrance being either by a 
 hole, or, in some cases, the planks are made to overlap about 
 two feet asunder, and the entrance is in this space. There 
 are also holes or windows in the sides of the houses to look 
 out at, but without any regularity of shape or disposition. 
 On the inside, one may frequently see from* one end to the 
 other of these ranges of building without interruption. 
 Close to the sides is a little bench of boards, raised five or 
 six inches higher than the rest of the floor, and covered with 
 mats, on which the family sit and sleep. These benches are 
 commonly seven or eight feet long, and four or five broad. In 
 the middle of the floor, between them, is the fireplace, which 
 has neither heardi nor chimney. In one house, which was 
 in the end of a middle range, almost quite separated from 
 the rest by a high, close partition, and the most regular as 
 to design of any that I saw there, were four of these benches, 
 each of which held a single family at a corner, but without 
 any separation by boards, and the middle part of the house 
 appeared common to them all. 
 
 Their furniture consists chiefly of a great number of chests 
 and boxes of all sizes, which are generally piled upon each 
 other, close to the sides or ends of the house, and contain 
 their spare garments, skins, masks, and other things which 
 theyset avalue upon. Their other domestic utensils are mostly 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 373 
 
 square and oblong pails or baskets to hold water or other 
 things ; round wooden cups or bowls, small shallow wooden 
 troughs, about two feet long, out of which they eat their food, 
 baskets of twigs, and bags of matting. Their fishing imple- 
 ments, and other things, also lie or hang up in different 
 parts of the house, but without the least order, so that the 
 whole is a complete scene of confusion ; and the only places 
 that do not partake of this confusion are the sleeping 
 benches, which have nothing on them but the mats. Their 
 houses are as filthy as hog-sties, everything in and about 
 them stinking of fish, train-oil, and smoke. But, amidst all 
 the filth and confusion, many of them are decorated with 
 images. These are nothing more than the trunks of very 
 large trees, four or five feet high, set up singly or by pairs, at 
 the upper end of the apartment, with the front carved into 
 a human face, and the arms and hands cut out upon the 
 sides, and variously painted, so that the whole is a truly 
 monstrous figure. The general name of these images is 
 Klumma, and the names of two particular ones, which stood 
 abreast of each other, three or four feet asunder in one of 
 the houses, were Natchkoa and Matseeta. A mat, by way of 
 curtain, for the most part hung before them, which the 
 natives were not willing at all times to remove, and when 
 they did unveil them, they seemed to speak of them in a very 
 mysterious manner. 
 
 Naturally we thought they were representatives of their 
 gods, or symbols of some religious or superstitious object, and 
 yet we had proofs of the little estimation they were held in, 
 for with a small quantity of iron or brass I could have pur- 
 chased all the gods (if their images were such) in the place. 
 I did not see one that was not offered to me, and I actually 
 got two or three of the very smallest sort. 
 
 The chief employment of the men seems to be that of 
 fishing and killing land or sea animals, for the sustenance of 
 their families, for we saw few of them doing anything in the 
 houses, whereas the women were occupied in manufacturing 
 their flaxen or woollen garments, and in preparing the sardines 
 for drying. The women are also sent in the small canoes to 
 
374 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 gather muscles, and other shell-fish, and perhaps on some 
 other , occasions, for they manage these with as much 
 dexterity as the men. 
 
 Their weapons are bows and arrows, slings, spears, short 
 truncheons of bone, something like the patoo-patoo of New 
 Zealand, and a small pickaxe, not unlike the common 
 American tomahawk. The spear has generally a long point 
 made of bone ; some of the arrows are pointed with iron, 
 but most commonly these points were of indented bone. 
 The tomahawk is a stone, six or eight inches long, pointed 
 at one end, and the other end fixed into a handle of wood. 
 This handle resembles the head and neck of the human 
 figure, and the stone is fixed in the mouth so as to represent 
 an enormously large tongue. To make the resemblance still 
 stronger, human hair is also fixed to it. They have another 
 stone weapon, nine inches or a foot long, with a square point. 
 From the number of these and other weapons we might 
 almost conclude that it is their custom to engage in close 
 fight ; and we had, too, convincing proofs that their wars 
 were both frequent and bloody, from the vast number of 
 human skulls which they brought to sell. 
 
 Their canoes are of a simple structure, but to appearance 
 well calculated for every useful purpose. Even the largest, 
 which carry twenty people or more, are formed of one tree, 
 and many of them are forty feet long, seven broad, and three 
 deep. From the middle, towards each end, they become 
 gradually narrower, the after-part or stern ending abruptly or 
 perpendicularly, with a small knob on the top ; but the fore- 
 part is lengthened out, stretching forward and upward, ending 
 in a notched point or prow considerably higher than the 
 sides of the canoe, which run nearly in a straight line. For 
 the most part they are without any ornament, but some have 
 a little carving and are decorated by setting seals' teeth on 
 the surface like studs, as is the practice on tlieir masks and 
 weapons. They have no seats, but only several round sticks, 
 little thicker than a cane, placed across at mid-depth. They 
 are very light, and their breadth and flatness enable them to 
 swim firmly, without an outrigger — a remarkable distinction 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 375 
 
 between the craft of all the American nations and that of the 
 Southern Pacific Ocean. Their paddles are small and light, 
 the shape in some measure resembling that of a large leaf, 
 pointed at the bottom, broadest in the middle, and gradually 
 losing itself in the shaft ; the whole being about five feet 
 long. 
 
 Their implements for fishing and hunting, which are both 
 ingeniously contrived and well made, are nets, hooks, lines, 
 harpoons, and an instrument like an oar. This last is 
 about twenty feet long, four or five inches broad, and about 
 half an inch thick. Each edge, for about two-thirds of its 
 length — the other third being its handle — is set with sharp 
 bone-teeth about two inches long. Herrings and sardines, 
 and such other small fish as come in shoals, are attacked 
 with this instrument, which is struck into the shoal, and the 
 fish are caught either upon or between the teeth. Their 
 hooks are made of bone and wood, and rather inartistically ; 
 but the harpoon, with which they strike the whale and lesser 
 sea animals, shows 'much contrivance. It is composed of a 
 piece of bone, cut into two barbs, in which is fixed the oval 
 blade of a large muscle-shell, having the point of the instru- 
 ment, to which is fastened about two or three fathoms of 
 rope. To throw this harpoon they use a shaft of about 
 twelve or fifteen feet long, to which the harpoon is fixed, so 
 as to separate from the shaft and leave it floating on the 
 water as a buoy when the animal darts away with the 
 harpoon. 
 
 They sometimes decoy animals by covering themselves 
 with a skin, and running about on all-fours, which they do 
 very nimbly, as appeared from the specimens of their skill 
 which they exhibited to us — making a kind of noise or 
 neighing at the same time ; and on these occasions the 
 masks, or carved heads, as well as the real dried heads of 
 the different animals, are put on. As to the materials of 
 which they make their various articles, it is to be observed 
 that everything of the rope kind is formed either from thongs 
 of skins and sinews of animals, or from the same flaxen 
 substance of which their mantles are manufactured. The 
 
376 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 sinews often appeared to be of such a length that it might 
 be presumed they could be of no other animal than the 
 whale ; and the same may be said of the bones of which 
 they made their weapons, already mentioned, such as their 
 bark-beating instruments, the points of their spears, and 
 barbs of their harpoons. 
 
 The chisel and the knife are the only forms, as far as we 
 saw, that iron assumes amongst them. The chisel is a long 
 flat piece, fitted into a handle of wood ; a stone serves for 
 a mallet, and a piece of fish-skin for a polisher. I have 
 seen some of these chisels that were eight or ten inches 
 long, and three or four inches broad ; but, in general, they 
 were smaller. The knives are of various sizes, and their 
 blades are crooked, somewhat like our pruning-knife, but the 
 edge is on the back or convex part. Most of them that we 
 saw were about the breadth and thickness of an iron hoop. 
 They sharpen these tools upon a coarse slate whetstone, and 
 likewise keep the whole instrument constantly bright. 
 
 They expressed no marks of surprise M seeing our ships ; 
 nor were they even startled at the report of a musket, till 
 one day, upon their endeavouring to make us sensible that 
 their arrows and spears could not penetrate the hide -dresses, 
 one of our gentlemen shot a musket-ball through one of 
 them, folded six times, which greatly staggered them. 
 
 Some account of a Spanish voyage to this coast in 1774, or 
 1775, had reached England before I sailed, but the foregoing 
 circumstances sufficiently prove that these ships had not been 
 at Nootka.=^ 
 
 We were hardly out of the Sound, on the evening of the 
 26th, before the wind suddenly shifted, and increased to a 
 strong gale, with squalls and rain, with so dark a sky that 
 we could not see the length of the ship. Being apprehensive, 
 from the experience I had since our arrival on this coast, of 
 the wind veering more to the south, which would put us in 
 
 * We now know Ihat Captain Cook's conjecture was well founded. It 
 appears from the journal of this voyage here referred to, that the Spaniards had 
 intercourse with the natives of this coast only in three places, which were not 
 within two degrees of Nootka ; and it is most probable that the people there 
 never heard of these Spanish ships. 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 377 
 
 danger of a lee-shore, we got the tacks on board, and 
 stretched off to the south-west under all the sail the ships 
 would bear. At daylight the next morning we were quite 
 clear of the coast, and the Discovery being at some distance 
 astern, I brought to till she came up, and then bore away, 
 steering north-west, in which direction I supposed the 
 coast to lie. At half-past one in the afternoon it blew a 
 perfect hurricane, so that I judged it highly dangerous to run 
 any longer before it, and therefore brought the ships to, with 
 their heads to the southward, under the foresails and mizzen- 
 staysails. At this time the ResoliUioii sprung a leak, which 
 at first alarmed us not a little, as from the bread-room we 
 could both hear and see the water rush in, and, as we then 
 thought, it was two feet under water. But in this we were 
 happily mistaken, for it was afterwards found to be even with 
 the water-line, if not above it, when the ship was upright. It 
 was no sooner discovered than the fish-room was also found 
 to be full of water, and the casks in it afloat, but this was in 
 a great measure owing to the water not finding its way to the 
 pumps through the coals that lay in the bottom of the room ; 
 for, after the water was baled out (which employed us till 
 midnight), and had found its way directly from the leaks to 
 the pumps, it appeared that one pump kept it under, which 
 gave us no small satisfaction. In the evening, the wind 
 veered to the south, and its fury in some degree ceased ; on 
 this, we set the mainsail and two topsails, close-reefed, and 
 stretched to the westward. But at eleven o'clock the gale 
 again increased, and obliged us to take in the topsails, till 
 five o'clock the next morning, when the storm began to 
 abate, so that we could bear to set them again. 
 
 At seven in the evening, on the ist of May, we got sight of 
 land, which abounds with hills, but one considerably outtops 
 the rest ; this I called Mount Edgecumbe. On the 3rd we 
 saw a large inlet, distant six leagues, and the most advanced 
 point of the land lying under a very high peaked mountain, 
 which obtained the name of Mount Fair Weather. The 
 inlet was named Cross Sound, being first seen on the 
 day so marked in our calendar. From the 4th to the loth 
 
378 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 nothing very interesting occurred. On the loth we found 
 ourselves no more than three leagues from the coast of the 
 continent, which extended as far as the eye could reach. 
 To the westward of this last direction was an island that 
 extended from north to south, distant six leagues. A point 
 shoots out from the main toward the north-east end of the 
 island, about five or six leagues distant ; this point I named 
 Cape Suckhng. 
 
 On the nth I bore up for the island. At ten o'clock in 
 the morning I went in a boat, and landed upon it, with a 
 view of seeing what lay on the other side, but finding it 
 farther to the hills than I expected, and the way being steep 
 and woody, I was obliged to drop the design. At the foot of a 
 tree, on a little eminence not far from the shore, I left a 
 bottle with a paper in it, on which were inscribed the names 
 of the ships and the date of our discovery ; and along with it 
 I enclosed two silver twopenny pieces of his Majesty's coin 
 of the date of 1772. These, with many others, were furnished 
 me by the Rev. Dr. Kaye (now Dean of Lincoln), and as a 
 mark of my esteem and regard for that gentleman, I named 
 the island after him, Kaye's Island ; it is eleven or twelve 
 leagues in length, but its breadth is not above a league and 
 a half in any part of it. On this island there are a consider- 
 able number of pines, and the whole seems covered with a 
 broad girdle of wood. 
 
 We were now threatened with a fog and a storm, and I 
 wanted to get into some place to stop the leak before we 
 encountered another gale. These reasons induced me to 
 steer for an inlet, which we had no sooner reached than the 
 weather became so foggy that we could not see a mile before 
 us, and it became necessary to secure the ships in some 
 place, and wait for a clearer sky. With this view I hauled 
 close under a cape, which I now called Cape Hinchinbroke, 
 and anchored before a small cove, a little within the cape, 
 and about a quarter of a mile from the shore. At some short 
 intervals the fog cleared away, and gave us a sight of the 
 land. Between the westernmost point of the shore under 
 which we were at anchor is a bay about three leagues deep, 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 379 
 
 on the south-east side of which there are two or three coves, 
 such as that in which we had anchored before, and in the 
 middle some rocky islands. 
 
 To these islands Mr. Gore was sent in a boat, in hopes of 
 shooting some eatable birds. But he had hardly got to tljem 
 before about twenty natives made their appearance, in two 
 large canoes, on which he thought proper to return to the 
 ships, and they followed him. They would not venture 
 alongside, but kept at some distance, hallooing aloud, and 
 alternately clasping and extending their arms, and in a short 
 time began a kind of song exactly after the manner of those 
 at Nootka. Their heads were also powdered with feathers. 
 One man held out a white garment, which we interpreted as 
 a sign of friendship ; and another stood up in the canoe 
 quite naked, for almost a quarter of an hour, with his arms 
 stretched out like a cross, and motionless. The canoes were 
 not constructed of wood, as at King George's or Nootka 
 Sound ; the frame only, being slender laths, was of that 
 substance, the outside consisting of the skins of seals or of 
 such-like animals. Though we returned all their signs of 
 friendship, and by every expressive gesture tried to encou- . 
 rage them to come alongside, we could not prevail. After 
 receiving some presents which were thrown to them, they 
 retired to that part of the shore from whence they came, 
 giving us to understand by signs that they would visit us 
 again. 
 
 At ten o'clock the next morning the wind became more 
 moderate ; and, the weather being somewhat clearer, we got 
 under weigh, in order to look out for some snug place where 
 we might search for and stop the leak, our present station 
 being too much exposed for this purpose. 
 
 The natives who visited us the preceding evening, came off 
 again in the morning, in five or six canoes, but not till we 
 were under sail ; and although they followed us for some 
 time, they could not get up with us. Before two in the 
 afternoon the bad weather returned again, with so thick a 
 haze that we could see no other land besides the point just 
 mentioned, which we reached at half-past four, and found it 
 
38o COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 to be a small island, lying about two miles from the adjacent 
 coast, being a point of land, on the east side of which we 
 discovered a fine bay, or rather harbour. To this we worked 
 up, under reefed topsails and courses. At length, at eight 
 o'clock, the violence of the squalls obliged us to anchor in 
 thirteen fathoms, before we had got as far into the bay as I 
 intended ; but we thought ourselves fortunate that we had 
 already sufficiently secured ourselves at this hour, for the 
 night was exceedingly stormy. The weather, bad as it was, 
 did not hinder three of the natives from paying us a visit. 
 They came off in two canoes — two men in one and one in 
 the other, being the number each could carry, for they were 
 built and constructed in the same manner as those of the 
 Esquimaux, only in the one were two holes for two men to 
 sit in, and in the other but one. Each of these men had a 
 stick, about three feet long, with the large feathers or wing of 
 birds tied to it. These they frequently held up to us, with a 
 view, as we guessed, to express their pacific disposition. 
 
 The treatment these men met with induced many more to 
 visit us, between one and two the next morning, in both 
 great and small canoes. Some ventured on board the ship, 
 but not till some of our people had stepped into their boats. 
 Amongst those who came on board was a good-looking, 
 middle-aged man, whom we afterwards found to be the chief. 
 He was clothed in a dress made of the sea-otter's skin, and 
 had on his head a similar cap to that worn by the people of 
 King George's Sound, ornamented with sky-blue glass beads 
 about the size of a large pea. He seemed to set a much 
 higher value upon these than upon our white glass beads ; 
 any sort of beads, however, appeared to be in very high 
 estimation with these people, and they most readily gave 
 whatever they had in exchange for them, even their fine 
 sea-otter skins. 
 
 I could not prevail upon the chief to trust himself below 
 the upper deck, nor did he and his companions remain long 
 on board. But while we had their company it was necessary 
 to watch them narrowly, as they soon betrayed a thievish 
 disposition. At length, after being about three or four hours 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 381 
 
 alongside the Resolutioji, they all left her and went to the Dis- 
 covery, none having been there before, except one man, who 
 at this time came from her, and immediately returned thither 
 in company with the rest. When I obsei-ved this, I thought 
 this man had seen something there which he knew would 
 please his countrymen better than what they met with in our 
 ship. But in this I was mistaken, as will soon appear. 
 
 As soon as they were gone I sent a boat to sound the head 
 of the bay, for, as the wind was moderate, I had thoughts of 
 laying the ship ashore if a convenient place could be found 
 where I might begin our operations to stop the leak. It was 
 not long before all the Americans left the Discovery, and, 
 instead of returning to us, made their way towards our boat 
 employed as above. The officer in her seeing this, returned 
 to the ship, and was followed by all the canoes. The boat's 
 crew had no sooner come on board, leaving in her two of 
 their number by way of a guard, than some of the Americans 
 stepped into her. Some presented their spears before the 
 two men, others cast loose the rope which fastened her to 
 the ship, and the rest attempted to tow her away. But the 
 instant they saw us preparing to oppose them they let her 
 go, stepped out of her into their canoes, and made signs 
 to us to lay down our arms, being apparently as perfectly 
 unconcerned as if they had done nothing amiss. This, 
 though rather a more daring attempt, was hardly equal to 
 what they had meditated on board the Discovery. The man 
 who came and carried all his countrymen from the Resohition 
 to the other ship had first been on board of her, where, after 
 looking down the hatchways and seeing nobody but the 
 officers of the watch and one or two more, he, no doubt, 
 thought they might plunder her w4th ease, especially as she 
 lay at some distance from us. It was unquestionably with 
 this view that they all repaired to her. Several of them, 
 without any ceremony, went on board, drew their knives, 
 made signs to the officers and people on deck to keep off, 
 and began to look about for plunder. The first thing they 
 met with was the rudder of one of the boats, which they 
 threw overboard to those of the party who had remained in 
 
332 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 their canoes. Before they had time to find another object 
 that pleased their fancy, the crew were alarmed, and began 
 to come upon deck armed with cutlasses. On seeing this, 
 the whole company of plunderers sneaked off into their 
 canoes, and they were observed describing to those who had 
 not been on board how much longer the knives of the ship's 
 crew were than their own. 
 
 Just as we were going to weigh the anchor, to proceed 
 fiirther up the bay, it began to blow and rain as hard as 
 before, so that we were obliged to veer away the cable again 
 and lay fast. Toward the evening, finding that the gale did 
 not moderate, and that it might be some time before an 
 opportunity offered of getting higher up, I came to a resolu- 
 tion to heel the ship where we were, and, with this view, 
 moved her with a kedge-anchor and hawser. In heaving 
 the anchor out of the boat, one of the seamen, either 
 through ignorance or carelessness, or both, was carried over- 
 board by the buoy-rope, and followed the anchor to the 
 bottom. It is remarkable that in this very critical situation 
 he had presence of mind to disengage himself and come up 
 to the surface of the water, when he was taken up, with one 
 of his legs fractured in a dangerous manner. 
 
 Early the next morning we gave the ship a good heel to 
 port, in order to come at and stop the leak. On ripping off 
 the sheathing it was found to be in the seams, which were 
 very open, both in and under the wale, and in several places 
 not a bit of oakum in them. While the carpenters were 
 making good these defects we filled all our empty water- 
 casks at a stream hard by the ship. 
 
 The leak being stopped and the sheathing made good over 
 it, at four o'clock in the morning of the 17th we weighed, 
 and steered to the north-westward, thinking, if there should 
 be any passage to the north through this inlet, that it must 
 be in that direction. 
 
 The wind having failed us about one o'clock, with the 
 assistance of our boats we got to an anchor under the eastern 
 shore, in thirteen fathoms of water, and about four leagues 
 to the north of our last station. In the morning the weather 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 383 
 
 had been very hazy, but it afterwards cleared up, so as to 
 give us a distinct view of all the land round us, particularly to 
 the northward, where it seemed to close. This left us but 
 little hopes of finding a passage that way, or indeed in any 
 other direction, without putting out again to sea. 
 
 To enable me to form a better judgment, I despatched 
 Mr. Gore, with two armed boats, to examine the northern 
 arm, and the master, with two other boats, to examine 
 another arm that seemed to take an easterly direction. Late 
 in the evening they both returned ; but their reports dis- 
 agreeing, and the wind having become favourable for getting 
 out to sea, I resolved to spend no more time in searching for 
 a passage in a place that promised so little success. 
 
 Having taken my resolution, next morning at three o'clock 
 we weighed, and, with a gentle breeze at north, proceeded 
 southward down the inlet, into which another passage was 
 now discovered to the south-west of that by which we had 
 entered, which enabled us to shorten our way out to sea. It 
 is separated from the other by an island, extending eighteen 
 leagues in the direction of north-east and south-west, to 
 which I gave the name of Montagu Island. In this south- 
 west channel are several islands. Those that lie in the 
 entrance next the open sea are high and rocky, but those 
 within are low, and, being entirely free from snow, and 
 covered with wood and verdure, we called them Green 
 Islands. At eight o'clock in the evening, it being a dead 
 calm, we anchored about two miles from the shore of 
 Montagu's Island. The calm continued till ten o'clock the 
 next morning, when, a breeze springing up, we weighed, and 
 by six o'clock in the evening we were again in the open sea, 
 and found the coast trending west by south as far as the eye 
 could reach. To the inlet which we had now left I gave the 
 name of Prince William's Sound. 
 
 The most uncommon and unsightly ornamental fashion 
 adopted by some of both sexes of the people of this Sound is 
 their having the under-lip slit or cut quite through in the 
 direction of the mouth, a little below the swelling part. This 
 incision, which is made even in the sucking children, is often 
 
384 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 above two inches long, and either by its natural retraction, 
 when the wound is fresh, or by the repetition of some 
 artificial management, assumes the true shape of lips, and 
 becomes so large as to admit the tongue through. This 
 happened to be the case, when the first person having this 
 incision was seen by one of the seamen, who called out that 
 the man had two mouths ; and, indeed, it does not look 
 unlike it. In this artificial mouth they stuck a flat, narrow 
 ornament, made chiefly out of a solid shell or bone, cut into 
 little narrow pieces, like small teeth, almost down to the base 
 or thickest part, which has a small projecting bit at each end 
 that supports it when put into the divided lip, the cut part 
 then appearing outward ; others have the lower lip only per- 
 forated into separate holes, and then the ornament consists 
 of as many distinct shelly studs, whose points are pushed 
 through these holes, and their heads appear within the lip, 
 as another row of teeth immediately under their own. 
 
 After leaving Prince William's Sound, I steered to the 
 south-west, and passed a lofty promontory. As the discovery 
 of it was connected with the Princess Elizabeth's birthday, I 
 named it Capp Elizabeth. Beyond it we could see no land, 
 so that at first we were in hopes that it was the western 
 extremity of the continent ; but not long after we saw our 
 mistake, for fresh land appeared in sight, bearing west-south- 
 west. 
 
 The wind by this time had increased to a strong gale, 
 and forced us a good distance from the coast. In the after- 
 noon of the 22nd the gale abated, and we stood to the north- 
 ward for Cape Elizabeth, which at noon the next day bore 
 west, ten leagues distant. At the same time a new land was 
 jeen, bearing south, 77° West, which was supposed to connect 
 Cape Elizabeth with the land we had seen to the westward. 
 
 The wind continued at west, and I stood to the southward 
 till noon the next day, when we were within three leagues of 
 the coast which we had discovered on the 22nd. At the 
 same time more land was seen extending to the southward, 
 the whole being twelve or fifteen leagues distant ; I concluded 
 that it must be Cape St. Hermogenes. On its north-east side, 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 385 
 
 the coast turned towards the north-west, and appeared to be 
 wholly unconnected with the land seen by us the preceding 
 day. We were detained off the cape by variable light airs 
 and calms till two o'clock the next morning, when a breeze 
 springing up we soon found the land of Cape St. Hermogenes 
 to be an island about six leagues in circuit, separated from 
 the adjacent coast by a channel one league broad. A league 
 and a half to the north of this island lie some rocks above 
 water, on the north-east side of which we had twenty to thirty 
 fathoms of water. The island of St. Hermogenes ended in 
 a low point, which was called Point Banks. I steered for 
 the land which was supposed to connect Cape Elizabeth 
 with it, and on a nearer approach, found it to be a group of 
 high islands and rocks entirely unconnected with any other 
 land. They obtained the name of Barren Isles from their 
 very naked appearance, and are situated in a line with Cape 
 Elizabeth and Point Banks, three leagues distant from the 
 former, and five from the latter. 
 
 I intended going through one of the channels that divide 
 these islands, but meeting with a strong current setting 
 against us I bore up, and beat to the leeward of them all. 
 Towards the evening, the weather, which had been hazy all 
 day, cleared up, and we got sight of a very lofty promontory, 
 whose elevated summit, forming the exceeding high moun- 
 tains, was seen above the clouds. This promontory I named 
 Douglas, in honour of my very good friend Dr. Douglas, 
 Canon of Windsor. 
 
 At daybreak the next morning, being the 26th, having got 
 to the northward of the Barren Isles, we discovered more 
 land, extending from Cape Douglas to the north. It formed 
 a chain of mountains of vast height, one of which, far more 
 conspicuous than the rest, was named Mount St. Augustin. 
 The discovery of this land did not discourage us, as it was 
 supposed to be wholly unconnected with the land of Cape 
 Elizabeth, for in a north-north-east direction the sight was 
 unlimited by everything but the horizon. We also thought 
 that there was a passage to the north-west between Cape 
 Douglas and Mount St. Augustin. In short, it was imagined 
 
 2 B 
 
386 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 that the land on our larboard, to the north of Cape Douglas, 
 was composed of a group of islands, disjoined by so many 
 channels, any one of which we might make use of according 
 as the wind should serve. With these flattering ideas, having 
 a fresh gale at north-north-east, we stood to the north-west 
 till eight o'clock, when we clearly saw that what we had 
 taken for islands were summits of mountains, everywhere 
 connected by lower land, which the haziness of the horizon 
 had prevented us from seeing at a greater distance. This 
 land was everywhere covered with snow, from the tops of 
 the hills down to the very sea-beach, and had every other 
 appearance of being part of a great continent. I was now 
 fully persuaded that I should find no passage by this inlet, 
 and my persevering in the search of it here was more to 
 satisfy other people than to confirm my own opinion. 
 
 On the 28th, having but very little wind, I dropped a kedge- 
 anchor with an eight-inch hawser bent to it ; but, in bringing 
 the ship up, the hawser parted near the inner end, and 
 although we brought the ship up with one of the bowers, 
 and spent most of the day in sweeping for the kedge, it was 
 to no effect. 
 
 The weather being fair and tolerably clear, we saw land 
 on each side, with a ridge of mountains rising one behind 
 another, without the least separation. On the eastern shore 
 we now saw two columns of smoke, a sure sign that there 
 were inhabitants. Between one and two in the morning of 
 the 30th we weighed, and worked up till near seven o'clock, 
 when, the tide being done, we anchored in nineteen fathoms, 
 under the same shore as before. About noon, two canoes, 
 with a man in each, came off to the ship, from near the place 
 where we had seen the smoke the preceding day. They 
 laboured very hard in paddling across the stormy tide, and 
 hesitated a little before they would come quite close ; but 
 upon signs being made to them they approached. One of 
 them talked a great deal, but we did not understand a word 
 he said. He kept pointing to the shore, which we interpreted 
 to be an invitation to go thither. They accepted a few trifles 
 from me, which I conveyed to them from the quarter gallery. 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 387 
 
 These men in every respect resembled the people we had 
 met with in Prince Wilham's Sound^ as to their person and 
 dress. Their canoes were also of the same construction. 
 One of our visitors had his face painted jet black, and seemed 
 to have no beard, but the other, who was more elderly, had 
 no paint and a considerable beard. 
 
 When the flood made we weighed, and then the canoes 
 left us. I stood over to the western shore, with a fresh gale 
 at north-north-east, and fetched under the point above 
 mentioned ; this, with the other on the opposite shore, con- 
 tracted the channel to the breadth of four leagues. Through 
 this channel ran a prodigious tide. 
 
 At eight in the evening we anchored under a point of land 
 which bore north-east, three leagues distant, in fifteen fathoms 
 of water. Here we lay during the ebb, which ran near five 
 knots to the hour. We weighed with the next flood in the 
 morning of the 31st, and about eight o'clock were visited 
 by several of the natives, in one large and several small 
 canoes. The latter carried only one person each, and some 
 had a paddle with a blade at each end, after the manner of 
 the Esquimaux ; in the large canoes were men, women, and 
 children. Before they reached the ship, they displayed a 
 leathern frock upon a long pole, as a sign apparently of their 
 peaceable intentions. This frock they conveyed into the 
 ship, in return for some trifles which I gave them. We 
 procured from them some of their fur dresses, made of the 
 skins of sea-otters, martins, hares, and other animals, a few 
 of their darts, and a small supply of salmon and halibut. 
 In exchange for these they took old clothes, beads, and 
 pieces of iron. We found that they were in possession of 
 large iron knives and sky-blue glass beads, which they 
 seemed to value much, and consequently those which we 
 now gave them. After spending about two hours between 
 the one ship and the other, they all retired to the western 
 shore. 
 
 At nine o'clock we came to an anchor in sixteen fathoms 
 of water, about two leagues from the west shore; the weather 
 was misty, with drizzUng rain, and clear by turns. At the 
 
388 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 clear intervals we saw an opening between the mountains in 
 the eastern shore, bearing east from the station of the ships, 
 with low land, which we supposed to be islands lying be- 
 tween us and the mainland. Low land was also seen to the 
 northward, which seemed to extend from the foot of the 
 mountains on the one side to those on the other, and at low 
 water we perceived large shoals stretching out from this low 
 land, some of which were at ho great distance from us. 
 From these appearances we were in some doubt whether the 
 inlet did not take an easterly direction, through the above 
 opening, or whether that opening was only a branch of it, and 
 the main channel continued its northern direction through 
 the low land now in sight. 
 
 To determine this point and to examine the shoals I 
 despatched the boats, under the command of the master, 
 and, as soon as the flood-tide made, followed with the ships ; 
 but as it was a dead calm and the tide strong, I anchored, 
 after driving about ten miles in an easterly direction. In the 
 afternoon the natives, in several canoes, paid us a visit, and 
 trafficked with our people for some time, without ever giving 
 us reason to accuse them of any act of dishonesty. 
 
 At two o'clock on the following morning, the ist of June, 
 the master returned, and reported that he found the inlet, or 
 rather river, contracted to the breadth of one league by low 
 land on each side, through which it took a northerly direction. 
 He proceeded three leagues through this narrow part, which 
 he found navigable for the largest ships, being from seventeen 
 to twenty fathoms deep. While the ebb or stream ran down, 
 the water was perfectly fresh, but after the flood made it was 
 brackish. 
 
 All hopes of finding a passage were now given up ; but, as 
 the ebb was almost spent, and we could not return against 
 the flood, I thought I might as well take advantage of the 
 latter to get a nearer view of the eastern branch, and by that 
 means finally to determine whether the low land on the east 
 side of the river was an island, as we had supposed, or not. 
 With this purpose in view we weighed with the first of the 
 flood, and stood over for the eastern shore, with boats ahead 
 
I 
 
 THE THIRD VOYAGE. 389 
 
 sounding ; but, a contrary wind springing up, I despatched 
 two boats, under the command of Lieutenant King, to exa- 
 mine the tides and to make such other observations as might 
 give us some insight into the nature of the river. 
 
 At ten o'clock, finding the ebb begun, I anchored in nine 
 fathoms of water, but, observing the tide to be too strong 
 for the boats to make head against it, I 'made a signal for 
 them to return on board before they had got half-way to 
 the entrance of the river they were sent to examine, which 
 was three leagues distant. The principal information gained 
 by this tide's work was the determining that all the low land, 
 which we had supposed to be an island or islands, was one 
 track, from the banks of the great river to the foot of the 
 mountains, which it joined, and that it terminated at the 
 south entrance of this eastern branch, which I shall dis- 
 tinguish by the name of River Turnagain. On the north 
 side of this river the low land again begins, and stretches 
 out from the foot of the mountains down to the banks of the 
 great river, so that before the river Turnagain it forms a large 
 bay, on the south side of which we were now at anchor. 
 
 We had traced this river seventy leagues or more from its 
 entrance without seeing the least appearance of its source. 
 
 If the discovery of this great river,* which promises to 
 vie with the most considerable ones already known to be 
 capable of extensive inland navigation, should prove of use 
 either to the present or to any future age, the time we spent 
 in it ought to be the less regretted ; but to us, who had a 
 much greater object in view, the delay thus occasioned was 
 an essential loss. The season was advancing apace, we knew 
 not how far we might have to proceed to the south, and we 
 were now convinced that the continent of North America 
 extended farther to the west than from the modern most 
 reputable charts we had reason to expect. This made the 
 existence of a passage into Baffin's or Hudson's Bay less 
 
 * Captain Cook having here left a blank, which he had not filled up with any 
 particular name. Lord Sandwich directed, with the greatest propriety, that it 
 should be called Cook's River. This arm of the sea is now known as Cook's 
 Inlet, and was further explored, in 1794, by Captain Vancouver. 
 
390 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 probable, or at least showed it to be of greater extent. It 
 was a satisfaction to me, however, to reflect that if I had not 
 examined this very considerable inlet it would have been 
 assumed by speculative fabricators of geography as a fact 
 that it communicated with the sea to the north, or with 
 Baffin's or Hudson's Bay to the east. 
 
 In the afternoon I sent Mr. King again with two armed 
 boats, with orders to land on the northern point of the low 
 land on the north-east side of the river ; thence to display the 
 flag and take possession of the country and river in his 
 Majesty's name ; and also to bury in the ground a bottle con- 
 taining some pieces of English coin of the year 1772, and a 
 paper, on which was inscribed the names of our ships and the 
 date of our discovery. In the meantime, the ships were got 
 under sail, in order to proceed down the river. The wind 
 blew fresh easterly, but a calm ensued not long after we were 
 under way, and the flood- tide meeting us off the point where 
 Mr. King landed (and which thence got the name of Point 
 Possession), we were obliged to drop anchor in six fathoms 
 of water, with the point bearing south, two miles distant. 
 
 When Mr. King returned, he informed me that, as he 
 approached the shore, about twenty of the natives made their 
 appearance with their arms extended, probably to express 
 their peaceable disposition and to show that they were 
 without weapons. On Mr. King and the gentlemen with 
 him landing with muskets in their hands, they seemed 
 alarmed, and made signs expressive of their request to lay 
 them down ; this was accordingly done, and then they 
 suffered the gentlemen to walk up to them, and appeared to 
 be cheerful and sociable. They had with them a few pieces 
 of fresh salmon and several dogs. Mr. Law, surgeon of the 
 Discovery, who was one of the party, having bought one of 
 the latter, took it down towards the boat, and shot it dead in 
 their sight. This seemed to surprise them exceedingly, and, 
 as if they did not think themselves safe in such company, 
 they walked away ; but it was soon after discovered that 
 their spears and other weapons were hid in the bushes close 
 behind them. We weighed anchor as soon as it was high 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 391 
 
 water, and stood over to the west shore, where the return of 
 the flood obliged us to anchor early next morning. Soon 
 after several large and some small canoes with natives came 
 off, who first bartered their skins, and then sold their 
 garments, till many of them were quite naked ; amongst 
 others, they brought a number of white hare or rabbit skins, 
 and very beautiful reddish ones of foxes; but there were 
 only two or three skins of otters. They also sold us some 
 pieces of salmon and halibut, and preferred iron to every- 
 thing else offered to them in exchange. 
 
 At half-past ten we weighed with the first of the ebb, and 
 while working down the river, owing to the inattention and 
 neglect of the man at the lead, the Resolution struck and 
 stuck fast on a bank that lies nearly in the middle of the 
 river, and about two miles above the two projecting bluff 
 points before mentioned. As soon as the ship got aground 
 I made a signal for the Discovery to anchor ; she, as I after- 
 wards understood, had been near ashore on the west side of 
 the bank. As the flood-tide came in, the ship floated off 
 soon after five o'clock in the afternoon, without receiving the 
 least damage, or giving us any trouble, and after standing 
 over to the west shore into deep water, we anchored to wait 
 for the ebb, as the wind was still contrary. We weighed 
 again with the ebb, at ten o'clock at night, and between four 
 and five the next morning. When the tide was finished, we 
 once more cast anchor about two miles below, the bluff point 
 on the west shore. Many of the natives came off, and 
 attended upon us all the morning. Their company was 
 very acceptable, for they brought with them a quantity of 
 fine salmon, which they exchanged for such trifles as we 
 had to give them. Most of it was split ready for drying, 
 and several hundred-weight of it was procured for the two 
 ships. 
 
 The wind remaining southerly, we continued to tide it 
 down the river, and on the morning of the 5th, coming to 
 the place where we had lost our kedge-anchor, made an 
 attempt to recover it, but without success. Before we left 
 this place, six canoes came off from the east shore, some 
 
392 COOICS VOYAGES, 
 
 conducted by one, and others by two men. They remained 
 at a Httle distance from the ships, viewing them with a kind 
 of silent surprise, at least half an hour, without exchanging a 
 single word with us, or with one another. At length they 
 took courage and came alongside, when they began to barter 
 with our people, and did not leave us till they had parted 
 with everything they brought with them, consisting of a few 
 skins and some salmon. 
 
 Early on the morning of the 20th some breakers were seen 
 two miles distant, which forced us so far from the continent, 
 that we had but a distant view of the coast. Over some 
 adjoining islands we could see the main land covered with 
 snow, but particularly some hills, whose elevated tops were 
 seen towering above the clouds to a most stupendous height. 
 The most south-westerly of these hills was discovered to have 
 a volcano, which continually threw up vast columns of black 
 smoke. It stands not far from the coast, and is also remark- 
 able from its figure, which is a complete cone, having the 
 volcano at the very summit. In the afternoon, having 
 three hours' calm, our people caught upwards of a hundred 
 halibuts, some of which weighed a hundred pounds ; this was 
 a very seasonable refreshment to us. While thus engaged, a 
 small canoe, conducted by one man, came to us from the 
 large island ; on approaching the ship, he took off his cap 
 and bowed. It was evident that the Russians must have 
 communication and traffic with these people, not only from 
 their acquired politeness, but from their possessing certain 
 articles only used among civilised nations ; thus our present 
 visitor wore a pair of green cloth breeches, and a jacket of 
 black cloth or stuff, under the gut-shirt of his own country. 
 He had nothing to barter except a grey fox-skin and some 
 fishing implements or harpoons, the heads of the shafts of 
 which were neatly made of bone. 
 
 The weather was cloudy and hazy, with now and then 
 sunshine, till the afternoon of the 22nd, when the wind came 
 round to the south-east, and, as usual, brought thick rainy 
 weather. Before the fog came on, no part of the mainland 
 was in sight, except the volcano and another mountain close 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 393 
 
 by it. We made but little progress for some days, having 
 the wind variable, and but little of it. 
 
 On the morning of the -25th we got an easterly breeze 
 and, what was uncommon with this wind, clear weather, so 
 that we not only saw the volcano, but other mountains, both 
 to the east and west of it, and all the coast of the main land 
 under them, much plainer than at any time before. The 
 weather in the afternoon became gloomy, and at length 
 turned to a mist, so thick that we could not see a hundred 
 yards before us. We were now alarmed at hearing the 
 sound of breakers on our larboard bow, and on heaving the 
 lead found twenty-eight fathoms of water. I immediately 
 anchored, and a few hours after, the fog having cleared a 
 little, it appeared that we had escaped very imminent danger. 
 We found ourselves three-quarters of a mile from the north- 
 east side of an island, and the elevated rocks were about 
 half a league each from us, and about the same distance 
 from each other. There were several breakers about them, 
 and yet Providence had, in the dark, guided the ships 
 between these rocks, which I should not have ventured on 
 a clear day, and to such an anchoring-place that I could not 
 have chosen a better. 
 
 On a point which bore west from the ship three-quarters 
 of a mile distant, were several natives and their habitations. 
 In this place we saw them tow in two whales, which we sup- 
 posed they had just killed. A few of them now and then 
 came off to the ships and bartered a few trifling things with 
 our people, but never remained above a quarter of an hour 
 at a time ; they rather seemed shy, and yet we could judge 
 that they were no strangers to vessels something like ours. 
 
 At daybreak on the 28th we weighed with a light breeze at 
 south, which was succeeded by variable light air« from all 
 directions. But as there ran a rapid tide in our favour, we 
 got through before the ebb made, and came to an anchor in 
 twenty-eight fathoms of water near the southern shore. 
 While we lay here, several of the natives came off to us and 
 bartered a few fishing implements for tobacco. One of them, 
 a young man, having upset his canoe while alongside one 
 
394 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 of our boats, our people caught hold of him, but the canoe 
 went adrift. The youth, by this accident, was obliged to 
 come into the ship, and he went down into my cabin upon 
 the first invitation, without expressing the least reluctance 
 or uneasiness. His own clothes being wet, I gave him others, 
 in which he dressed himself with as much ease as I could 
 have done. From his behaviour, and that of some others, 
 we were convinced that these people were no strangers to 
 Europeans, and to some of their customs. But there was 
 something in our ships that greatly excited their curiosity, 
 for such as could not come off in their canoes assembled on 
 the neighbouring hills to look at them. 
 
 Soon after we anchored, a native of the island brought on 
 board a note, which he presented to me ; but it was written 
 in the Russian language, which none of us could read. As 
 it could be of no use to me, and might be of consequence 
 to others, I returned it to the bearer, and dismissed him 
 with a few presents, for which he expressed his thanks by 
 making several low bows as he retired. In walking next 
 day along the shore, I met a group of natives of both sexes, 
 seated on the grass at a repast consisting of raw fish, which 
 they seemed to eat with as much reHsh as we should a turbot 
 served up with the richest sauce. By the evening we had 
 completed our water, and made such observations as the time 
 and weather would permit. 
 
 Thick fogs and a contrary wind detained us till the 2nd 
 of July, which afforded an opportunity of acquiring some 
 knowledge of the country and of its inhabitants. 
 
 Having now put to sea, we steered to the north, meeting 
 with nothing to obstruct us in this course, but made very 
 little progress for many successive days, nor met with any- 
 thing remarkable. On the morning of the i6th we found 
 ourselves nearer the land than we expected. Here, between 
 two points, the coast forms a bay, in some parts of which 
 the land was hardly visible from the mast-head. I sent 
 Lieutenant Williamson with orders to land, and see what 
 direction the coast took, and what the country produced, for 
 it had but a barren appearance. Soon after, Mr. Williamson 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 395 
 
 returned and reported that he had landed on the point, and 
 having climbed the highest hill, found that the farthest part 
 of the coast in sight bore nearly north. He took possession 
 of the country in his Majesty's name, and left on the hill a 
 bottle in which was inscribed on a piece of paper the names 
 of the ships, and the date of the discovery. The promon- 
 tory, to which he gave the name of Cape Newenham, is a 
 rocky point of tolerable height ; the hills are naked, but 
 on the lower grounds grew grass and other plants. He saw 
 no other animal but a doe and her fawn, and a dead sea- 
 horse or cow upon the beach. 
 
 From the i6th to the 21st nothing material occurred. 
 
 On the 2 1st we were obliged to anchor, to avoid running 
 upon a shoal, which had only a depth of five feet. While 
 we lay here, twenty-seven men of the country, each in a 
 canoe, came off to the ship, which they approached with 
 great caution, hallooing and opening their arms as they 
 advanced, which we understood was to express their pacific 
 intentions. At length some approached near enough to 
 receive a few trifles that were thrown to them. This en- 
 couraged the rest to venture alongside, and traffic presently 
 commenced between them and our people, who got dresses 
 of skins, bows, arrows, darts, and wooden vessels, our visitors 
 taking in exchange whatever was offered them. They seemed 
 to be the same sort of people that we had of late met with 
 all along this coast, wore the same kind of ornaments in their 
 lips and noses, but were far more dirty and not so well 
 clothed. They appeared to be wholly unacquainted with 
 people like us, knew not the use of tobacco, nor was any 
 foreign article seen in their possession, unless a knife made 
 of a piece of common iron, fitted in a wooden handle, may 
 be looked upon as such. 
 
 The canoes were made of skins, like all the others we had 
 lately seen, but were broader, and the hole in which the man 
 sits was wider than in any I had before met with. Our 
 boats returning from sounding seemed to alarm them, so 
 that they all left us sooner than probably they would other- 
 wise have done. 
 
396 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 Variable winds with rain prevailed till the 3rd of August. 
 Mr. Anderson, my surgeon, who had been lingering under a 
 consumption for more than twelve months, expired between 
 three and four this afternoon. He was a sensible young 
 man, an agreeable companion, well skilled in his own pro- 
 fession, and had acquired considerable knowledge in other 
 branches of science. 
 
 Soon after he had breathed his last, land was seen to the 
 westward, twelve leagues distant. It was supposed to be an 
 island ; and to perpetuate the memory of the deceased, for 
 whom I had a very great regard, I named it Anderson's 
 Island. The next day I removed Mr. Law, the surgeon of 
 the Discovery, into the Resolution, and appointed Mr. Samuel, 
 the surgeon's first mate of the Resolution, to be surgeon of 
 the Discovery, 
 
 At ten in the morning of the 5th, with the wind at south- 
 west, we ran down and anchored between the continent and 
 an island four leagues in extent, which was named Sledge 
 Island. I landed here, but saw neither shrub nor tree either 
 upon the island or on the continent. That people had lately 
 been on the island was evident from the marks of feet. We 
 found, near where we landed, a sledge, which occasioned 
 this name being given by me to the island. It seemed to be 
 such an one as the Russians in Kamtschatka make use of 
 over the ice or snow, and was ten feet long, twenty inches 
 broad, and had a kind of rail-work on each side, and was 
 shod with bone. The construction of it was admirable, and 
 all the parts neatly put together. After several observations, 
 from the 6th to the 9th, I was satisfied that the whole was a 
 continued coast. I tacked and stood away for its north-west 
 part, and came to anchor near a point of land, which I 
 named Cape Prince of Wales. It is the western extremity 
 of all America hitherto known. 
 
 At daybreak in the morning of the loth we resumed our 
 course to the west, and about ten o'clock anchored in a large 
 bay two miles from the shore. As we were standing into 
 this bay we perceived on the north shore a village and some 
 people, whom the sight of the ships seemed to have thrown 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 397 
 
 into confusion or fear, as we could plainly see persons 
 running up the country with burdens upon their backs. At 
 these habitations I proposed to land, and accordingly went 
 with three armed boats, accompanied by some of the officers. 
 About thirty or forty men, each armed with a spontoon and' 
 bow and arrows, stood drawn up on a rising ground close by 
 the village. As we drew near, three of them came down 
 towards the shore, and were so polite as to take off their 
 caps and to make us low bows. We returned the civility ; 
 but this did not inspire them with sufficient confidence to 
 wait for our landing, for the moment we put the boats 
 ashore they retired. I followed them alone, without any- 
 thing in my hand, and by signs and gestures prevailed on 
 them to stop and receive some trifling presents. In return 
 for these they gave me two fox-skins and a couple of sea- 
 horse teeth. 
 
 They seemed very fearful and cautious, expressing their 
 desire by signs that no more of our people should be per- 
 mitted to come up. On my laying my hand on the shoulder 
 of one of them, he started back several paces. In proportion 
 as I advanced, they retreated backward, always in the atti- 
 tude of being ready to make use of their spears, while those 
 on the rising ground stood ready to support them with their 
 arrows. Insensibly, myself and two or three of my com- 
 panions got in amongst them. A few beads distributed to 
 those about us soon caused a kind of confidence, so that 
 they were not alarmed when a few more of our people joined 
 us, and by degrees a sort of traffic between us commenced. 
 In exchange for knives, beads, tobacco, and other articles, 
 they gave us some of their clothing and a few arrows. But 
 nothing that we had to offer could induce them to part with 
 a spear or a bow. These they held in constant readiness, 
 never once quitting them, except at one time when four or 
 five persons laid theirs down while they gave us a song and 
 a dance. And even then they placed them in such a manner 
 that they could lay hold of them in an instant, and, for their 
 security, they desired us to sit down. 
 
 The arrows were pointed either with bone or stone, but 
 
393 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 very few of them had barbs, and some had a round blunt 
 point. What use these may be apphed to I cannot say, 
 unless it be to kill small animals without damaging the skin. 
 The bones were such as we had seen on the American coast, 
 and like those used by the Esquimaux. The spears or 
 spontoons were of iron or steel, and of European or Asiatic 
 workmanship, in which no little pains had been taken to 
 ornament them with carving and inlayings of brass, and of a 
 white metal. Those who stood ready with bows and arrows in 
 their hands, had the spear slung over their right shoulder by 
 a leathern strap ; a leathern quiver, slung over their left 
 shoulder, contained arrows, and some of the quivers were 
 extremely beautiful, being made of red leather, on which was 
 very neat embroidery and other ornaments. 
 
 Several other things, and in particular their clothing, 
 showed that they were possessed of a degree of ingenuity 
 far surpassing what one could expect to find among so 
 northern a people. All the Americans we had seen, since 
 our arrival on that coast, were rather low of stature, with 
 round chubby faces and high cheek-bones. The people we 
 now were amongst were far from resembling them ; in short, 
 they appeared to be quite a different nation. We saw neither 
 women or children of either sex, nor any aged, except one 
 man, who was bald-headed, and he was the only one who 
 carried no arms ; the others seemed to be picked men, and 
 rather under than above the middle age. 
 
 Their clothing consisted of a cap, a frock, a pair of boots, 
 and a pair of gloves, all made of leather, or of the skins of 
 deer, dogs, or seals, &c., and extremely well dressed, some 
 with the hair or fur on. The caps were made to fit the head 
 very close, and they also had hoods, made of the skin of dogs, 
 that were large enough to cover both head and shoulders. 
 Their hair seemed to be black, but their heads were either 
 shaved, or the hair cut close off, and none of them wore any 
 beard. 
 
 We found the village composed both of their summer and 
 their winter habitations. The latter are exactly like a vault, 
 the floor of which is sunk a little below the surface of the 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 399 
 
 earth. One of them which I examined was of an oval form, 
 about twenty feet long and twelve or more high; the framing 
 was of wood and the ribs of whales, disposed in a judicious 
 manner, and bound together with smaller materials of the 
 same sort ; over this framing is laid a covering of strong 
 coarse grass ; and that again is covered with earth, so that 
 on the outside the house looks like a little hillock, supported 
 by a wall of stone, three or four feet high, which is built round 
 the two sides and one end. At the other end the earth is 
 raised and sloping, to form a walk up to the entrance, which 
 is by a hole in the top of the roof over that end. The floor 
 was boarded, and under it a kind of cellar, in which I saw 
 nothing but water, and at the end of each house was a 
 vaulted room, which I took to be a store-room. These store- 
 rooms communicated with the house by a dark passage and 
 with the open air by a hole in the roof, which was even with 
 the ground one walked upon ; but they cannot be said to be 
 wholly underground, for one end leads to the edge of the hill 
 along which they were made, and which was built up with 
 stone. Over it stood a kind of sentry-box, or tower, composed 
 of the bones of large fish. The summer huts were pretty 
 large and circular, being brought to a point at the top ; the 
 framing was of slight poles and bones, covered with the skins 
 of sea animals. I examined the inside of one ; there was a 
 fireplace just within the door where lay a few wooden vessels, 
 all very dirty. Their bed-places were close to the side, and 
 took up about half the circuit ; some privacy seemed to be 
 observed, for there were several partitions made with skins ; 
 the bed and bedding were of deer-skins, and most of them 
 were dry and clean. 
 
 Above the habitations were erected several stages, ten or 
 twelve feet high, such as we had observed in some parts of 
 the American coast. They were wholly composed of bones, 
 and seemed intended for drying their fish and skins, which 
 were thus placed beyond the reach of their dogs, of which 
 they had a great many. These dogs are of the fox kind, 
 rather large and of different colours, with long soft hair like 
 wool. They are probably used in drawing their sledges in 
 
400 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 winter, of which I saw a great many laid up in one of the 
 winter huts. It is also not improbable that dogs may con- 
 stitute a part of their food, as several lay dead that had been 
 killed that morning. 
 
 The canoes of these people are of the same sort as those 
 of the North Americans, some, both of the large and small 
 sizes, being seen lying in a creek under the village. 
 
 By the large bones of fish, and of other sea animals, it 
 appeared that the sea supplied them with the greater part of 
 their subsistence. The country appeared to be exceedingly 
 barren, yielding neither tree nor shrub, that we could see. 
 At some distance westward we observed a ridge of mountains 
 covered with snow that had lately fallen. 
 
 At first we supposed this land to be a part of the island of 
 Alaschka, laid down in Mr. Staehlin's map ; but, from the 
 figure of the coast, the situation of the opposite shore of 
 America, and from the longitude, we soon began to think 
 that it was more probably the eastern extremity of Asia 
 explored by Behring in 1728. But to have admitted this, 
 without further examination, I must have pronounced Mr. 
 Stashlin's map and his account of the New Northern Archi- 
 pelago to be either exceedingly erroneous, even in latitude, or 
 else to be a mere fiction — a judgment which I had no right 
 to pass upon a publication so respectably vouched, without 
 producing the clearest proofs. 
 
 After a stay of between two and three hours with these 
 people, we returned to our ships ; and soon after, the wind 
 veering to the south, we weighed anchor, stood out of the 
 bay, and steered to the north-east, between the coast and the 
 two islands. From this station we steered east, in order to 
 get nearer the American coast. In this course the water 
 shoaled gradually, and, there being but little wind, and all 
 our endeavours to increase our depth failing, I was obliged 
 at last to drop anchor in six fathoms, the only remedy we 
 had left to prevent the ships driving into less. 
 
 A breeze of wind springing up from the north, we weighed 
 at nine in the evening, and stood to the westward, which 
 course soon brought us into deep water ; and during the 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 4ot 
 
 1 2th we worked up to the north, both coasts being in sight, 
 but we kept nearest to that of America. 
 
 Nothing particular occurred until the i6th, when, some 
 time before noon, we perceived a brightness in the northern 
 horizon, like that reflected from ice, commonly called " the 
 blink." It was little noticed, from a supposition that it was 
 improbable we should meet with ice so soon ; and yet the 
 sharpness of the air and gloominess of the weather for two 
 or three days past seemed to indicate some sudden change. 
 About an hour after, the sight of a large field of ice left us 
 no longer in doubt about the cause of the brightness of the 
 horizon. At half-past two, being in 70° 41' North latitude, we 
 tacked close to the edge of the ice in twenty-two fathoms of 
 water, not being able to stand on any further, for the ice was 
 quite impenetrable, and stretched as far as the eye could 
 reach. Here were abundance of sea-horses, some in the 
 water, but far more upon the ice. I had thoughts of hoisting 
 out the boats to kill some, but, the wind freshening, I gave 
 up the design, and continued to work to the southward, or 
 rather to the westward, for the wind came from that quarter. 
 We gained nothing, for on the i8th, at noon, our latitude was 
 70*^ 44',* and we were near five leagues farther to the east- 
 ward. We were at this time close to the edge of the ice, 
 which was as compact as a wall, and seemed to be ten or 
 twelve feet high at least ; but farther northward it appeared 
 much higher. Its surface was extremely ragged, and here 
 and there we saw upon it pools of water. 
 
 We now stood to the southward, and, after running six 
 leagues, shoaled the water to seven fathoms, but it soon 
 deepened to nine fathoms. At this time the weather, which 
 had been hazy, clearing up a little, we saw land, extending 
 from south to south-east by east, about three or four miles 
 distant. The eastern extreme forms a point, which was much 
 encumbered with ice, for which reason it obtained the name 
 of Icy Cape. Its latitude is 70° 29', and its longitude 198° 20'. 
 
 * This was the highest latitude attained by Captain Cook ; and it was not 
 until 1826 that Captain Beechey rounded Icy Cape in H.M.S. Blossom. 
 
 2 C 
 
402 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 The other extreme of the land was lost in the horizon, so 
 that there can be no doubt of its being a continuation of 
 the American continent. The Discovery , being about a mile 
 astern and to leeward, found less water than we did, and 
 tacking on that account, I was obliged to tack also, to" 
 prevent separation. 
 
 Our situation was now more and more critical. We were 
 in shoal water, upon a lee-shore, and the main body of the 
 ice to windward, driving down upon us. It was evident that, 
 if we remained much longer between it and the land, it 
 woMld force us ashore, unless it should happen to take the 
 ground before us. It seemed nearly to join the land to 
 leeward, and the only direction that was open was to the 
 south-west. After making a short board to the northward, I 
 made the signal for the Discovery to tack, and tacked myself 
 at the same time. The wind proved rather favourable, so 
 that we lay up south-west, and south-west by west. 
 
 At eight in the morning of the 19th, the wind veering back 
 to west, I tacked to the northward, when we had a good deal 
 of drift ice about us, the main ice being about two leagues 
 to the north. At half-past one we got in with the edges of 
 it, but it was too close and in too large pieces to attempt 
 forcing the ships through it On the ice lay a prodigious 
 number of sea-horses, and as we were in want of fresh pro- 
 visions, a boat from each ship was sent to get some. By 
 seven o'clock in the evening we had received on board the 
 Resolution nine of these animals. Some of the crew who 
 had been in Greenland declared that no one ever eat them, 
 but notwithstanding this we lived upon them as long as they 
 lasted, and there were few on board who did not prefer them 
 to our salt meat. The fat at first is as sweet as marrow, but 
 in a few days it grows rancid unless it be salted, in which 
 state it will keep much longer ; when melted it yields a great 
 deal of oil, which burns very well in lamps. The lean flesh 
 is coarse, black, and has rather a strong taste, the heart is 
 nearly as well tasted as that of a bullock, and the hide, which 
 is very thick, was useful about our rigging. The teeth or 
 tusks of most of them were at this time very small ; even 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 403 
 
 those of some of the largest and oldest of these animals did 
 not exceed six inches in length, from which we concluded that 
 they had lately shed their old teeth. 
 
 They lie in herds of many hundreds upon the ice, huddling 
 one over the other like swine, and roar or bray very loud, so 
 that in the night, or in foggy weather, they gave us notice of 
 the vicinity of the ice before we could see it. We never 
 found the whole herd asleep, some being always upon the 
 watch ; these, on the approach of the boat, would awake those 
 next to them, and the alarm being thus gradually communi- 
 cated, the whole herd would be awake presently. But they 
 were seldom in a hurry to get away, till after they had been 
 once fired at, when they would tumble one over the other into 
 the sea in the utmost confusion ; and if we did not at the 
 first discharge kill those we fired at, we generally lost them, 
 though mortally wounded. They did not appear to us to be 
 as savage as some authors have represented, not even when 
 attacked. Vast numbers of them would follow and come 
 close up to the boats, but the flash of a musket in the pan, or 
 even the bare pointing of one at them, would send them 
 down in an instant. The female will defend her young to 
 the very last and at the expense of her own life, whether in 
 the water or upon the ice \ nor will the young one quit the 
 dam, though she be dead, so that if you kill one you are sure 
 of the other. The dam, when in the water, holds the young 
 one between her fore-fins. 
 
 Why they should be called sea-horses is hard to say, unless 
 the word be a corruption of the Russian name " morse," for 
 they have not the least resemblance to a horse. This is, 
 without doubt, the same animal that is found in the Gulf of 
 St. Lawrence, and there called a sea-cow. It is certainly 
 more like a cow than an horse, but this likeness consists in 
 nothing but the snout ; in short, it is an animal like a seal, 
 but much larger. 
 
 It is worth observing that, for some days before this date, 
 we had frequently seen flocks of ducks flying to the south- 
 ward, and some said they saw geese also. Does not this 
 indicate that there must be land to the north, v/here these 
 
404 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 birds find shelter in the proper season to breed, and from 
 whence they were now returning to a warmer dimate ? 
 
 By the time we had got our sea-horses on board we were 
 in a manner surrounded with the ice, and had no way to 
 clear it but by standing to the southward, which was done 
 till three o'clock next morning, when we tacked, and stood 
 to the north till ten o'clock, when, the wind veering to the 
 northward, we directed our course to the west-south-west 
 and west. At two in the afternoon we fell in with the main 
 ice, along the edge of which we kept, being partly directed 
 by the roaring of the sea-horses, for we had a very thick fog. 
 Thus we continued sailing till near midnight. I now hauled 
 to the southward, and at ten o'clock the next morning, the 
 fog clearing away, we saw the continent of America. I con- 
 tinued to steer in for the American land until eight o'clock, 
 in order to get a nearer view of it, and to look for a harbour, 
 but seeing nothing like one, I stood again to the north, with 
 a light breeze westerly. The southern extremity of the coast 
 seemed to form a point, which was named Cape Lisburne, 
 and appeared to be high land, even down to the sea. 
 
 During the next few days the ships, surrounded by the ice, 
 frequently changed their course, and on the evening of the 
 27th, having but little wind, I went with the boats to examine 
 the state of the ice. I found it consisting of loose pieces of 
 various extent, and so close together that I could hardly 
 enter the outer edge with a boat, and it was as impossible for 
 the ships to enter it as if it had been so many rocks. I 
 took particular notice that it was all pure transparent ice, 
 except the upper surface, which was a little porous. It 
 appeared to be entirely composed of frozen snow, and to 
 have been all formed at sea. 
 
 A thick fog, which came on while I was thus employed 
 with the boats, hastened me aboard rather sooner than I 
 could have wished, with one sea-horse to each ship. We had 
 killed more, but could not wait to bring them with us. The 
 number of these animals on all the ice we had seen is almost 
 incredible. We spent the night standing off and on amongst 
 the drift-ice, and at nine o'clock the next morning, the fog 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 405 
 
 having partly dispersed, boats from each ship were sent for 
 sea-horses, for by this time our people began to relish them, 
 and those we had procured before were all consumed. 
 
 On the morning of the 29th we saw the main ice to the 
 northward, and not long after, land bearing south-west by 
 west. Presently after this, more land showed itself, bearing 
 west, in two hills, like islands, but afterwards the whole 
 appeared connected. As we approached the coast, it ap- 
 peared to lie low, next the sea, with elevated land farther 
 back It was perfectly destitute of wood, and even snow. 
 In the low ground, lying between the high land and the sea, 
 was a lake, extending to the south-east farther than we could 
 see. As we stood off, the westernmost of the two hills before 
 mentioned came open off the bluff point, which was named 
 Cape North. Its situation is nearly in the latitude of 68^ 56', 
 and in the longitude of 180^ 51'. Being desirous of seeing 
 more of the coast to the westward, we tacked again, at two 
 o'clock in the afternoon, thinking we could weather Cape 
 North, but, finding we could not, the wind freshening, a 
 thick fog coming on, with much snow, and being fearful of 
 the ice coming down upon us, I gave up the design I had 
 formed of working to the westward, and stood off shore 
 again. 
 
 The season was now so far advanced, and the time when 
 the frost is expected to set in so near at hand, that I did 
 not think it consistent with prudence to make any farther 
 attempts to find a passage into the Atlantic this year in any 
 direction, so little prospect was there of succeeding. My 
 attention was now directed towards finding out some place 
 where we might supply ourselves with wood and water, and 
 the object uppermost in my thoughts was how I should spend 
 the winter, so as to make some improvements in geography 
 and navigation, and at the same time be in a condition to 
 return to the north in further search of a passage the ensuing 
 summer. 
 
 After standing off till we got into eighteen fathoms of water, 
 I bore up to the eastward along the coast of Asia. At day- 
 break on the 30th we made sail, and steered such a course 
 
4o6 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 as I thought would bring us in with the land, for the weather 
 was as thick as ever, and it snowed incessantly. At ten we 
 got sight of the coast, bearing south-west, four miles distant- 
 The inland country hereabout is full of hills, some of which 
 are of a considerable height ; and the land was covered with 
 snow. 
 
 On the 2nd of September we had fair weather and sun- 
 shine, and as we ranged along the coast, at the distance 
 of four miles, saw several of the inhabitants and some of 
 their habitations, which looked like little hillocks of earth. 
 None of them, however, attempted to come off to us, which 
 seemed a little extraordinary, as the weather was favourable. 
 
 The more I was convinced of my being now upon the coast 
 of Asia, the more I was at a loss to reconcile Mr. Staehlin's 
 map of the New Northern Archipelago with my observations ; 
 and I had no way to account for the great difference but by 
 supposing that I had mistaken some part of what he calls 
 the island of Alaschka for the American continent, and had 
 missed the channel that separates them. Admitting even 
 this, there would still have been a considerable difference. 
 It was with me a matter of some consequence to clear up 
 this point the present season, that I might have but one 
 object in view the next ; and as these northern isles are 
 represented by him as abounding with wood, I was in hopes, 
 if I should find them, of getting a supply of that article, 
 which we now began to be in great want of on board. With 
 these views I steered over for the American coast, and on 
 the 6th we got sight of it. Pursuing our course, on the 9th 
 we found ourselves upon a coast covered with wood, an 
 agreeable sight, to which of late we had not been accustomed. 
 Next morning, being about a league from the west shore, I 
 took two boats and landed, attended by Mr. King, to seek 
 wood and water. Here we observed tracks of deer and 
 foxes on the beach, on which also lay a great quantity of drift 
 wood ; and there was no want of fresh water. I returned 
 on board with an intention to bring the ships to an anchor 
 here, but, the wind veering to north-east, I stretched over to 
 the opposite shore, in hopes of finding wood there also, and 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 407 
 
 anchored at eight o'clock in the evening ; but next morning 
 we found it to be a peninsula, united to the continent by a 
 low neck of land, on each side of which the coast forms a 
 bay, which obtained the name of Cape Denbigh. 
 
 Several people were seen upon the peninsula, and one man 
 came off in a small canoe. I gave him a knife and a few 
 beads, with which he seemed well pleased. Having made 
 signs to bring us something to eat, he immediately left us, 
 and paddled towards the shore ; but meeting another man 
 coming off who happened to have two dried salmon, he got 
 them, and would give them to nobody but me. 
 
 Lieutenant Gore being now sent to the peninsula, reported 
 that there was but little fresh water, and that wood was 
 difficult to be got at, by reason of the boats grounding at 
 some distance from the beach. This being the case, I stood 
 back to the other shore, and at eight o'clock the next morn- 
 ing I sent all the boats and a party of men with an officer to 
 get wood from the place where I had landed two days before. 
 
 Next day a family of the natives came near to our wooding 
 party. I know not how many there were at first, but I saw 
 only the husband, the wife, and their child, and a fourth 
 person who bore the human shape, and that was all, for he 
 was the most deformed cripple I had ever seen. 
 
 Iron was their favourite article ; for four knives, which we 
 had made out of an old iron hoop, I got from them near 
 400 lbs. of fish which they had caught on this or the pre- 
 ceding day. I gave the child, who was a girl, a few beads, on 
 which the mother burst into tears, then the father, then the 
 cripple, and at last, to complete the concert, the girl herself 
 
 Before night we had the ship amply supplied with wood, 
 and had carried on board above twelve tons of water to each. 
 Some doubts being still entertained whether the coast we 
 were now upon belonged to an island or the American 
 continent, and the shallowness of the water putting it out of 
 our power to determine this with our ships, I sent Lieutenant 
 King with two boats under his command to make such 
 searches as might leave no room for a variety of opinions on 
 the subject. This officer returned from his expedition on the 
 
4o8 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 1 6th, and reported that he proceeded with the boats about 
 three or four leagues farther than the ships had been able to 
 go ; that he then landed on the west side ; that from the 
 heights he could see the two coasts join, and the inlet 
 terminate in a small river or creek, before which were banks 
 of sand or mud, and everywhere shoal water. From the 
 elevated spot on which Mr. King surveyed the sound, he 
 could distinguish many extensive valleys, with rivers running 
 through them, well wooded and bounded by hills of a gentle 
 ascent and moderate height. In honour of Sir Fletcher 
 Norton, Speaker of the House of Commons, and Mr. King's 
 near relative, I named this inlet Norton's Sound. 
 
 Having now fully satisfied myself that Mr. Staehlin's map 
 must be erroneous, and having restored the American con- 
 tinent to that space which he had occupied with his imaginary 
 island of Alaschka, it was high time to think of leaving these 
 northern regions, and to retire to some place during the 
 winter, where I might procure some refreshments for my 
 people and a small supply of provisions. Petropaulowska, 
 or the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, in Kamtschatka, 
 did not appear likely to furnish either the one or the other 
 for so large a number of men. I had, besides, other reasons 
 for not repairing thither at this time ; the first, and on which 
 all the others depended, was the great dislike I had to lie 
 inactive for six or seven months, which would have been the 
 necessary consequence of wintering in any of these northern 
 parts. No place was so conveniently within our reach, 
 where we could expect to have our wants relieved as the 
 Sandwich Islands ; to them, therefore, I determined to 
 proceed. 
 
 On the 2nd of October, at daybreak, we saw the island of 
 Oonalashka, bearing south-east ; and as all harbours were 
 alike to me, provided they were equally safe and convenient, 
 I hauled into a bay, but, finding very deep water, we were 
 glad to get out again. The natives, many of whom lived 
 here, visited us at different times, bringing with them dead 
 salmon and other fish, which they exchanged with the 
 seamen for tobacco. A few days before, every ounce of 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 409 
 
 tobacco that was in the ships had been distributed among 
 the crew, and the quantity was not half sufficient to answer 
 their demands ; notwithstanding this, so improvident a 
 creature is an Enghsh sailor, that they were as profuse in 
 making their bargains as if they were in a port of Virginia, 
 so that in less than eight-and-forty hours the value of this 
 article of barter was lowered above 1000 per cent. 
 
 At one o'clock in the afternoon of the 3rd we anchored in 
 Samganoodha harbour, and the next morning the carpenters 
 of both ships were set to work to rip off the sheathing of and 
 under the wale on the starboard side abaft. Many of the 
 seams were found quite open, so that it was no wonder that 
 so much water had found its way into the ship. While we lay 
 here we cleared the fish and spirit rooms and the after-hold, 
 disposing things in such a manner that, in case we should 
 happen to have any more leaks of the same nature, the water 
 might find its way to the pumps. And besides this work and 
 completing our water, we cleared the fore-hold to the very 
 bottom, and took in a quantity of ballast. 
 
 On the 14th, in the evening, while Mr. Webber and I were 
 at a village a small distance from Samganoodha, a Russian 
 landed there, who, I found, was the principal person among 
 his countrymen in this and the neighbouring islands. Ismy- 
 loff, as he was called, arrived in a canoe carrying three 
 persons, attended by twenty or thirty other canoes, each 
 conducted by one man. I took notice that the first thing 
 they did after landing was to make a small tent for Ismyloff 
 of materials which they brought with them, and then they 
 made others for themselves of their canoes and paddles, 
 which they covered with grass, so that the people of the 
 village were at no trouble to find them lodgings. Ismyloff, 
 having invited us into his tent, set before us some dried 
 salmon and berries, which I was satisfied was the best cheer 
 he had. He appeared to be a sensible, intelligent man, and 
 I felt no small mortification in not being able to converse 
 with him, unless by signs, assisted by figures and other 
 characters, which, however, were a very great help. I desired 
 to see him on board the next day, and accordingly he came, 
 
4IO COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 with all his attendants ; indeed, he had moved into our 
 neighbourhood for the express purpose of waiting upon us. 
 
 I found that he was very well acquainted with the geo- 
 graphy of these parts, and with all the recent discoveries of 
 the Russians. On seeing the modern maps, he at once pointed 
 out their errors. 
 
 Both Ismyloff and the others affirmed that they knew 
 nothing of the continent of America to the northward, and 
 they called it by the same name which Mr. Stsehlin gives 
 to his great island— that is, Alaschka. From what we could 
 gather from Ismyloff and his countrymen, the Russians have 
 made several attempts to get a footing upon that part of this 
 continent that lies contiguous to Oonalashka and the ad- 
 joining islands, but have always been repelled by the natives, 
 whom they describe as a very treacherous people. They 
 mentioned two or three captains or chief men who had been 
 murdered by them, and some of the Russians showed us 
 wounds which they said they had received there. 
 
 In the following afternoon, M. Ismyloff, after dining with 
 Captain Gierke, left us with all his retinue, promising to 
 return in a few days. Accordingly, on the 19th he paid us 
 another visit, and brought with him the charts, which he 
 allowed me to copy. He remained with us till the evening 
 of the 2 1 St, when he took his final leave. To his care I 
 entrusted a letter to the Lords Commissioners of the 
 Admiralty, in which was enclosed a chart of all the northern 
 coasts I had visited. He said there would be an opportunity 
 of sending it to Kamtschatka or to Okotsk the ensuing 
 spring, and that it would be at St. Petersburg the following 
 winter. He gave me a letter * to Major Behm, governor of 
 Kamtschatka, and another to the commanding officer at 
 Petropaulowska. 
 
 There are Russians settled upon all the principal islands 
 between Oonalashka and Kamtschaka, for the sole purpose 
 of collecting furs. Their great object is the sea-beaver, or 
 otter. I never heard them inquire after any other animal, 
 
 * This letter reached its destination in safety, and may be found in the 
 Admiralty archives, among the other papers of the great navigator. 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 411 
 
 though those whose skins are of superior vakie also form 
 part of their cargoes. 
 
 To all appearances the natives are the most peaceable, 
 inoffensive people I ever met with, and as to honesty, they 
 might serve as a pattern to the most civilised nation upon 
 earth. The natives have their own chiefs in each island, and 
 seem to enjoy liberty and property unmolested, but whether 
 or not they are tributaries to the Russians we could never 
 find out. These people are rather low of stature, but plump 
 and well shaped, with rather short necks, swarthy, chubby 
 faces, black eyes, small beards, and long straight black hair, 
 which the menwear loose behind and cut before, but the women 
 tie it up in a bunch. Both sexes wear the same dresses in 
 fashion, the only difference is in the materials. The women's 
 frock is made of seal-skin, and that of the men of the skins 
 of birds, both reaching below the knee. This is the whole 
 dress of the women, but the men wear over the frock another 
 made of gut, which resists water, and has a hood to it, which 
 draws over the head. Some of them wear boots, and all of 
 them have a kind of cap made of wood, with a rim to admit 
 the head. These caps are dyed with green and other colours, 
 and round the upper part of the rim are stuck the long 
 bristles of some sea animal, on which are strung glass beads, 
 and on the front is a small image or two made of bone. 
 
 They make use of no paint, but the women puncture their 
 faces slightly, and both men and women bore the under lips, 
 to which they fix pieces of bone. Their food consists of flesh, 
 sea animals, birds, roots, and berries, and even of seaweed. 
 They dry large quantities of fish in summer, which they lay 
 up in small huts for winter use. They eat everything raw. 
 Boiling and broiling were the only methods of cookery that 
 I saw them make use of, and the first was probably learnt 
 from the Russians. Some have got little brass kettles, and 
 those who have not make one of a flat stone, with sides of 
 clay. I was once present when the chief of Oonalashka 
 made his dinner of the raw head of a large halibut, just 
 caught. Before any was given to the chief, two of his 
 servants eat the gills, without any other dressing than 
 
412 COOICS VOYAGES, 
 
 squeezing out the slime. This done, one of them cut off the 
 head of the fish, took it to the sea and washed it, then came 
 with it and sat down by the chief, first puUing up some 
 grass, upon a part of which the head was laid, and the rest 
 was strewed before the chief. He then cut large pieces off 
 the cheeks, and laid them within the reach of the great man, 
 who swallowed them with as much satisfaction as we should 
 do raw oysters. When he had done, the remains of the 
 head were cut in pieces and given to the attendants, who ' 
 tore off the meat with their teeth, gnawing the bones like 
 so many dogs. 
 
 They produce fire both by collision and by attrition. The 
 former by striking two stones, one against another, on one of 
 which a good deal of brimstone is first rubbed ; the latter 
 method is with two pieces of wood, one of which is a stick 
 about eighteen inches in length, and the other a flat piece. 
 The pointed end of the stick they press upon the other, 
 whirling it nimbly round as a drill, thus producing fire in a 
 few minutes. This method is common in many parts of the 
 world. It is practised by the Kamtschadales, by these 
 people, by the Greenlanders, by the Brazilians, by the Ota- 
 heiteans, by the New Hollanders, and probably by many other 
 nations. 
 
 The canoes made use of by the natives are the smallest 
 we had anywhere seen upon the American coast, though 
 built after the same manner, with some little difference in 
 the construction. The stern of these terminates a little 
 abruptly, the head is forked, the upper point of the fork 
 projecting without the under one, which is even with the 
 surface of the water ; the framing is of slender laths, and 
 the covering of seal-skins. They are about twelve feet long, 
 a foot and a half broad in the middle, and twelve or fourteen 
 inches deep. Upon occasion, they can carry two persons, 
 one of whom is stretched at full length in the canoe, and the 
 other sits in the seat or round hole, which is nearly in the 
 middle. Round this hole is a rim or hoop of wood, about 
 which is sewed gut skin, that can be drawn together, or 
 opened like a purse with leathern thongs fitted to the outer 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 413 
 
 edge. The man seats himself in this place, draws the skin 
 tight round his body over his gut-pouch, and brings the end 
 of the thongs or purse-string over the shoulder to keep it in 
 its place. The sleeves of his frock are tied tight round his 
 wrists, and it being close round his neck, and the hood drawn 
 over his head, where it is confined by his cap, water can 
 scarcely penetrate either to his body or into the canoe. If 
 any should, however, insinuate itself, the boatman carries a 
 piece of sponge with which he dries it up. He uses the 
 double-bladed paddle, which is held by both hands in the 
 middle, striking the water with a quick regular motion, first 
 on one side and then on the other. By this means the canoe 
 is impelled at a great rate, and in a direction as straight as a 
 line can be drawn. 
 
 The fishing and hunting implements lie ready upon the 
 canoes, under straps fixed for the purpose. They are all 
 made in great perfection, of wood and bone, and differ very 
 little from those used by the Greenlanders, as they are de- 
 scribed by Crantz. These people are very expert in striking 
 fish both in the sea and in rivers. They also make use of 
 hooks and lines, nets, and spears ; the hooks are composed 
 of bone, and the lines of sinews. 
 
 The people of Oonalashka bury their dead on summits of 
 hills, and raise a little hillock over the grave. In a walk into 
 the country, one of the natives who attended me pointed out 
 several of these receptacles of the dead. There was one of 
 them by the side of the road leading from the harbour to the 
 village, over which was raised a heap of stones. It was 
 observed that every one who passed it added one to it. I 
 saw in the country several stone hillocks, that seemed to have 
 been raised by art. Many of them were apparently of great 
 antiquity. 
 
 In the morning of Monday, the 26th of October, we put 
 to sea from Samganoodha harbour. My intention was 
 now to proceed to the Sandwich Islands, there to spend a 
 few of the winter months, in case we should meet with the 
 necessary supplies, and then to direct our course to Kamts- 
 chatka, so as to endeavour to be there by the middle of May 
 
414 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 in the ensuing summer. In consequence of this resokition 
 I gave Captain Gierke orders how to proceed in case of 
 separation, appointing the Sandwich Islands for the first 
 place of rendezvous, and the harbour of Petropaulowska, 
 in Kamtschatka, for the second. Nothing remarkable hap- 
 pened during our voyage, and at daybreak on the 26th of No- 
 vember land was sighted, extending from south-south-east to 
 west. We were now satisfied that the group of the Sand- 
 wich Islands had been only imperfectly discovered, as those 
 which we had visited in our progress northward all lie to the 
 leeward of our present station. I bore up and ranged along 
 the coast to the westward, and it was not long before we saw 
 people on several parts of the shore, and some houses and 
 plantations. The country seemed to be both well wooded 
 and watered. 
 
 As it was of the last importance to procure a supply of 
 provisions at these islands, and taught by experience that 
 I could have no chance to succeed in this if a free trade 
 with the natives were to be allowed — that is, if it were left 
 to every man's discretion to trade for what he pleased, and 
 in the manner he pleased — I now published an order, pro- 
 hibiting all persons from trading, except such as should 
 be appointed by me and Captain Clerke, and even these 
 were enjoined to trade only for provisions and supplies. 
 
 At noon, seeing some canoes coming off, I brought to, 
 and as soon as they got alongside, many of the people came 
 into the ship, without the least hesitation. 
 
 We got from our visitors a quantity of cuttle-fish in ex- 
 change for nails and pieces of iron. They brought very 
 little fruit and roots, but told us that they had plenty of them 
 on their island, as also hogs and fowls. In the evening, 
 the horizon being clear to the westward, we judged the 
 westernmost land in sight to be an island, separated from 
 that off which we now were. Having no doubt that the 
 people would return to the ships next day with the produce 
 of their country, I kept tacking all night, and, in the morning, 
 stood close in shore. At first only a few of the natives visited 
 us, but towards noon we had the company of a good many, 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 415 
 
 who brought bread-fruit, potatoes, tarro, or eddy-roots, a 
 few plantains and small pigs, all of which they exchanged 
 for nails and iron tools ; indeed, we had nothing else to 
 give them. We continued trading with them till four o'clock 
 in the afternoon, when, having disposed of all their cargoes, 
 and not seeming inclined to fetch more, we made sail and 
 stood off shore. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 30th, being off the north-east end 
 of the island, several canoes came off to the ships. Most 
 of these belonged to a chief named Terreeoboo, who came 
 in one of them. He made me a present of two or three 
 small pigs, and we got by barter from the people a little 
 fruit. After a stay of about two hours, they all left us, except 
 six or eight of their company, who chose to remain on board ; 
 a double sailing canoe came soon after to attend upon them, 
 which we towed astern all night. In the evening we dis- 
 covered another island to windward, which the natives call 
 Owhyhee.* The name of that off which we had been for 
 some days, we were also told, is Mowee. 
 
 On the 1st of December, at eight in the morning, finding 
 that we could fetch Owhyhee, I stood for it, and our visitors 
 from Mowee, not choosing to accompany us, embarked in 
 their canoe and went ashore. At seven in the evening we 
 were close up with the north side of Owhyhee, where we spent 
 the night, standing off and on. In the morning of the 2nd 
 we were surprised to see the summits of the mountains on 
 Owhyhee covered with snow. As we drew near the shore, 
 some of the natives came off to us ; they were a little shy at 
 first, but we soon enticed some of them on board, and at last 
 prevailed upon them to return to the island and bring off 
 what we wanted. Soon after they had reached the shore, 
 we had company enough, and few coming empty-handed, we 
 got a tolerable supply of small pigs, fruit, and roots ; we con- 
 
 * The Sandwich Islands, of which Owhyhee, or Hawaii, is the chief, consist 
 of eight inhabited islands, and two or three rocky and desolate islets. The 
 former are called Woahoo or Oahu, Mowee, Kawai or Atooi, which Cook had 
 already visited, Molokai, Lanai, Niihaw, and Kahoolawe. Their whole 
 superficial area is 6000 square miles, 4000 of which are comprised in Owhyhee 
 alone. 
 
4i6 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 tinned trading with them till the evening, when we made sail 
 and stood off. We resumed trading with the natives on 
 the 6th and 7th, and procured pork, fruit, and roots, suffi- 
 cient for four or five days. We then made sail, and con- 
 tinued to work up to windward. Having procured a quantity 
 of sugar-cane, and finding that a strong decoction of it pro- 
 duced a very palatable beer, I ordered some more to be 
 brewed for our general use ; but when the cask was now 
 broached, not one of my crew would even so much as taste 
 it. As I had no motive in preparing this beverage but to 
 save our spirits for a colder climate, I gave myself no further 
 trouble, either by exerting authority, or by having recourse 
 to persuasion to prevail upon them to drink it, knowing that 
 there was no danger of the scurvy, so long as we could get a 
 plentiful supply of other vegetables. But, that I might not 
 be thwarted in my views, I gave orders that no grog should 
 be served in either ship. I myself, and the officers, con- 
 tinued to make use of the sugar-cane beer whenever we 
 could get materials for brewing it. A few hops, of which we 
 had some on board, improved it much. It has the taste of 
 new malt beer, and I believe no one will doubt of its being 
 very wholesome, yet my inconsiderate crew alleged that it 
 was injurious to their health. They had no better reason to 
 support a resolution which they took on our first arrival in 
 King George's Sound, not to drink the spruce beer made 
 there ; but, whether from consideration that it was not the 
 first time of their being required to use that liquor, or from 
 some other reason, they did not attempt to carry their pur- 
 pose into actual execution, and I had never heard of it until 
 now, when they renewed their ignorant opposition to my best 
 endeavours to serve them. Every innovation whatever on 
 board a ship, though ever so much to the advantage of sea- 
 men, is sure to meet with their highest disapprobation. 
 Both portable soup and sour krout were at first condemned 
 as stuff unfit for human beings. Few commanders have in- 
 troduced into their ships more novelties, as useful varieties of 
 food and drink, than I have done ; indeed, few commanders 
 have had the same opportunities of trying such experiments. 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 417 
 
 I kept at some distance from the coast till the 13th, when 
 I stood in again six leagues farther to windward than we 
 had as yet reached, and, after having some trade with the 
 natives who visited us, stood out to sea. I now determined 
 to get round, or at least to get a sight of the south-east end 
 of the island, but the wind was variable between the 14th and 
 1 8th, blowing sometimes in hard squalls, and at other times 
 calm, with thunder, lightning, and rain. In the evening it 
 shifted to east by south, and we stood to the southward, 
 close-hauled under easy sail, as the Discovery was at some 
 distance astern. At this time the south-east point of the 
 island bore south-west by south, about five leagues distant, 
 and I made no doubt that I should be able to weather it. 
 But at one o'clock next morning it fell calm, and we were left 
 to the mercy of a north-easterly swell, which impelled us 
 fast towards the land, so that, long before daybreak, we saw 
 lights and the shore, which was not more than a league 
 distant. The night was dark, with thunder, lightning, and 
 rain. 
 
 At three o'clock the calm was succeeded by a breeze, 
 blowing in squalls, with rain, and at daybreak the coast was 
 seen extending from north to south-west, a dreadful surf 
 breaking upon the shore, which was not more than half a 
 league distant. It was evident that we had been in the 
 most imminent danger ; nor were we yet in safety, the wind 
 veering more easterly, so that for some ti ne we did but 
 just keep our distance from the coast. What made our 
 situation more alarming was the leech-rope* of the main- 
 topsail giving way, which was the occasion of the sail 
 being rent in two ; and the two topgallant sails gave way 
 in the same manner, though not half worn out. By taking 
 a favourable opportunity we soon bent others, and then we 
 left the land astern. The Discovery, by being at some dis- 
 tance to the north, was never near the land, nor did we see 
 her till eight o'clock. 
 
 As soon as daylight appeared, the natives ashore displayed 
 a white flag, which we conceived to be a signal of peace and 
 
 * The leech-rope is that vertical part of the bolt-rope to which the edge of the 
 sail is sewed. 
 
 2 D 
 
4i8 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 friendship. Some of them ventured out after us, but the 
 wind freshening, and it not being safe to wait, they were 
 soon left astern. In the afternoon, after making an attempt 
 to weather the eastern extreme, which failed, I gave it up, 
 and ran down to the Discovery. Indeed, it was of no con- 
 sequence to get round the island, for we had seen its extent 
 to the south-east, which was what I wanted ; and according 
 to the information we had gained from the natives, there 
 is no other island to the windward of this. However, as we 
 were so near the south-east end of it, and as the least shift 
 of wind in our favour would serve to carry us round, I did 
 not wholly give up the idea of weathering it, and therefore 
 continued tacking the ship. 
 
 On the 2oth, in the afternoon, some of the natives came 
 off in their canoes, bringing with them a few pigs and 
 plantains ; but the supply being barely sufficient for one 
 day, I stood in again the next morning, till within three or 
 four miles of the land, where we were met by a number of 
 canoes, laden with provisions. We brought to, and con- 
 tinued trading with the people till four in the afternoon, 
 when, having got a pretty good supply, we made sail, and 
 stretched off to the northward. 
 
 I had never met with a behaviour so free from reserve and 
 suspicion, in my intercourse with any tribes of savages, as 
 we experienced in the people of this island. It was very 
 common for them to send up into the ship the several 
 articles they brought off for barter, after which they would 
 come in themselves, and make their bargains on the quarter- 
 deck. The people of Otaheite, even after our repeated visits, 
 do not care to put so much confidence in us, whence I infer 
 that those of Owhyhee must be more faithful in their dealings 
 with one another than the inhabitants of Otaheite are ; for, 
 if little faith were observed amongst themselves, they would 
 not be so ready to trust strangers. It is also to be observed, 
 to their honour, that they had never once attempted to cheat 
 us in exchanges, nor to commit a theft. 
 
 On the 22nd, at four in the afternoon, after purchasing 
 everything that the natives had brought off, we made sail, 
 and stretched to the north ; and at midnight we tacked and 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 419 
 
 stood to the south-east. Supposing that the Discoveiy 
 would see us tack, the signal was omitted, but she did not 
 see us, as w^e afterwards found, and continued standing to 
 the north, so that, at daylight next morning, she was not in 
 sight At this time, the weather being hazy, we could not 
 see far, so that it was possible the Discovery might be 
 following us ; and being past the north-east part of the 
 island I was tempted to stand on, till, by the wind veering 
 to north-east, we could not weather the land upon the other 
 tack ; consequently we could not stand to the north, to join 
 or look for the Discovery. At six in the evening v/e had 
 succeeded in getting to windward of the island, whicli we 
 had aimed at with so much perseverance. The Discovery, 
 however, was not yet to be seen ; but the wind, as we had it, 
 being very favourable for her to follow us, I concluded that 
 it would not be long before she joined us ; I therefore kept 
 cruising off this south-east point of the island till I was 
 satisfied that Captain Gierke would not join me here. I 
 now conjectured that he had not been able to weather the 
 north-east part of the island, and had gone to leeward, in 
 order to meet me that way. 
 
 As I generally kept from five to ten leagues from the land, 
 no canoes, except one, came off to us till the 28th, when we 
 were visited by a dozen or fourteen. 
 
 We stood in again on the 30th, and brought to for the 
 purposes of trade, but soon after our marketing was inter- 
 rupted by a very hard rain, and, besides, we were rather 
 too far from the shore. Nor durst I go nearer, for I could 
 not depend upon the wind's remaining where it was for a 
 moment, the swell also being high, and setting obliquely 
 upon the shore, against which it broke in a frightful surf. In 
 the evening the weather mended, but before daybrer.k the 
 atmosphere was again loaded with heavy clouds, and the new 
 year was ushered in with very hard rain, which continued at 
 intervals, till past ten o'clock. Being about five miles from 
 land, several canoes arrived with fruit and roots, and at last 
 some hogs were brought off. We lay to trading with them 
 till three o'clock in the afternoon, when, having a tolerable 
 supply, we made sail with a view of proceeding to the north- 
 
420 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 west, or lee side of the island, to look for the Discovery, For 
 several days past both wind and weather had been exceed- 
 ingly unsettled, and there fell a great deal of rain. The 
 three following days w^ere spent in running down the south- 
 east side of the island, for during the night we stood off and 
 on, and part of each day was employed in lying to, in order 
 to furnish an opportunity to the natives of trading with us. 
 They sometimes came on board while we were five leagues 
 from the shore, but whether from fear of losing their goods 
 in the sea or from the uncertainty of a market, they never 
 brought much with them. The principal article procured 
 was Salt, which was extremely good. 
 
 On the morning of the 5th of January, 1779, we passed 
 the south point of the island, on which stands a pretty large 
 village, the inhabitants of which thronged off to the ship with 
 hogs. As I had now got a quantity of salt, I purchased no 
 hogs but such as were fit for salting, refusing all that were 
 under size ; however, we could seldom get any above fifty or 
 sixty pounds weight. It was fortunate for us that we had 
 still some vegetables on board, for we now received few such 
 productions ; indeed, this part of the country, from its ap- 
 pearance, did not seem capable of affording them. Marks 
 of its having been laid waste by the explosion of a volcano 
 everywhere presented themselves, and though we had as 
 yet seen nothing hke one upon the island, the devastation 
 that it had made in this neighbourhood was visible to the 
 naked eye. 
 
 The next morning the natives visited us again, bringing 
 with them the same articles of commerce as before. Being 
 now near the shore, I sent Mr. Bligh, the master, in a boat 
 to sound the coast, with orders to land and to look for fresh 
 water. Upon his return, he reported that he found no run- 
 ning stream, but only rain water, deposited in holes upon the 
 rocks, and even that was brackish from the spray of the sea, 
 and that the surface of the country was entirely composed of 
 slags and ashes, with a few plants interspersed. Between 
 ten and eleven we saw with pleasure the Discovery coming 
 round the south point of the island, and, at one in the after- 
 noon, she joined us. Captain Gierke coming on board, in- 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 421 
 
 formed me that he had cruised four or five days where we 
 were separated, and then worked round the east side of the 
 island, but that, meeting with unfavourable winds, he had 
 been carried to some distance from the coast. He had one 
 of the islanders on board all this time, who had remained 
 there from choice, and had refused to quit the ship, though 
 opportunities offered. 
 
 Having spent the night standing off and on, we stood in 
 again the next morning, and when we were about a league 
 from the shore, many of the natives visited us ; at daybreak 
 on the 8th we found that the currents had carried us back 
 considerably to windward, so that we were now off the south- 
 west point of the island. There we brought to, in order to 
 give the natives an opportunity of trading with us. We 
 spent the nignt as usual, standing off and on, and, at four in 
 the morning of the nth, the wind being at west, I stood in 
 for the land, in order to get some supplies. We lay to or 
 stood on and off during the next few days, trading with the 
 natives, but got a very scanty supply. 
 
 At daybreak on the i6th, seeing the appearance of a bay, 
 I sent Mr. Bligh with a boat from each ship to examine it, 
 being at this time three leagues ofT. Canoes now began to 
 arrive from all parts, so that before ten o'clock there were 
 not fewer than a thousand about the two ships, most of them 
 crowded with people, and well-laden with hogs and other 
 productions of the island. We had the most satisfying proof 
 of their friendly intentions, for we did not see a single person 
 who had with him a weapon of any sort ; trade and curiosity 
 alone had brought them off. Among such numbers as we 
 had at that time on board, it is no wonder that some should 
 betray a thievish disposition. One of our visitors took out of 
 the ship a boat's rudder, and was discovered, but too late 
 to recover it. I thought this a good opportunity to show 
 these people the use of firearms, and two or three muskets, 
 and as many 4-pounders, were fired over the canoe which 
 carried off the rudder ; as it was not intended that any of 
 the shot should take effect, the surrounding multitude of 
 natives seemed rather more surprised than frightened. In 
 the evening Mr. Bligh returned, and reported that he had 
 
422 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 found a bay in which was good anchorage and fresh water 
 in a situation tolerably easy of access. Into this bay I 
 resolved to carry the ships, there to refit and supply our- 
 selves with every refreshment that the place could afford. 
 As night approached, the greater part of our visitors retired 
 to the shore, but numbers of them requested our permission 
 to sleep on board. Curiosity was not the only motive, at 
 least with some, for the next morning several things were 
 missing, which determined me not to entertain so many 
 another night. At eleven o'clock in the forenoon we 
 anchored in a bay which is called by the natives Karaka- 
 kooa, in thirteen fathoms of water, and about a quarter of a 
 mile from the north-east shore. The ships continued to be 
 much crowded with natives, and were surrounded by a multi- 
 tude of canoes. I had nowhere in the course of my voyages 
 seen so numerous a body of people assembled at one place, 
 for, besides those who had come off to us in canoes, all the 
 shore of the bay was covered with spectators, and many hun- 
 dreds were swimming round the ships like shoals of fish. 
 We could not but be struck with the singularity of this 
 scene, and perhaps there were few on board who now 
 lamented our having failed in our endeavours to find a 
 northern passage homeward last summer. In this disap- 
 pointment we owed our having it in our power to revisit the 
 Sandwich Islands, and to enrich our voyage with a dis- 
 covery which, though the last, seemed in many respects to be 
 the most important that had hitherto been made by Euro- 
 peans throughout the extent of the Pacific Ocean. 
 
 Captain Cook had now come to the end of his labours, and 
 owing to his murder in Karakakooa Bay within a few weeks 
 of his arrival, his journal ceases at this point. The re- 
 maining transactions of the voyage are related by Captain 
 King. 
 
 Karakakooa Bay is situated on the west side of the island 
 of Owhyhee, in a district called Akona. It is about a mile in 
 depth, and bounded by the low points of land distant half a 
 league from each other. On the north point, which is flat 
 and barren, stands the village of Kowrowa, and in the 
 bottom of the bay, near a grove of tall cocoa-nut trees, there 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 423 
 
 is another village of a more considerable size, called Kakooa ; 
 between them runs a high rocky cliff, inaccessible from the 
 sea-shore. On the south side the coast, for about a mile 
 inland, has a rugged appearance, beyond which the country 
 rises with a gradual ascent, and is overspread with cultivated 
 enclosures and groves of cocoa-nut trees, where the habitations 
 of the natives are scattered in great numbers. The shore all 
 round the bay is covered with a black coral rock, which makes 
 the landing very dangerous in rough weather, except at the 
 village of Kakooa, where there is a fine sandy beach with a 
 morai, or burying-place, at one extremity, and a small well of 
 fresh water at the other. This bay appearing to Captain 
 Cook a proper place to refit the ships and lay in an addi- 
 tional supply of water and provisions, we moored on the north 
 side, about a quarter of a mile from the shore. 
 
 As soon as the inhabitants perceived our intention of 
 anchoring in the bay they came off from the shore in 
 astonishing numbers, and expressed their joy by singing and 
 shouting, and exhibiting a variety of wild and extravagant 
 gestures. The sides of the decks and rigging of both ships 
 were soon completely covered with them, and a multitude of 
 women and boys, who had not been able to get canoes, came 
 swimming round us in shoals ; many of them not finding room 
 on board, remained the whole day playing in the water. 
 
 Among the chiefs who came on board the ResohUion was 
 a young man called Pareea, whom we soon perceived to be a 
 person of great authority. On presenting himself to Captain 
 Cook, he told him that he was a jackanee to the king of the 
 island, who was at that time engaged. in a military expedition 
 at Mowee, and was expected to return within three or four 
 days. A few presents from Captain Cook attached him 
 entirely to our interests, and he became exceedingly useful 
 to us in the management of his countrymen, as we had soon 
 occasion to experience ; for we had not been long at anchor 
 when it was observed that the Discovery had such a number 
 of people hanging on one side, as occasioned her to heel 
 considerably, and that the men were unable to keep off the 
 crowds which continued pressing into her. Captain Cook 
 being apprehensive that she might suffer some injury, pointed 
 
424 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 out the dano^er to Pareea, who immediately sent to their 
 assistance, cleared the ship of its encumbrance, and drove 
 away the canoes that surrounded her. The authority of the 
 chief over the inferior people appeared from this incident to 
 be of the most despotic kind. A similar instance of it hap- 
 pened the same day on board the Resoluiioti^ when the crowd 
 being so great as to impede the necessary duties of the 
 ship, we were obliged to have recourse to the assistance of 
 Kaneena, another of their chiefs, who had likewise attached 
 himself to Captain Cook. The inconvenience we laboured 
 under being made known, he immediately ordered his 
 countrymen to quit the vessel, and we were not a little sur- 
 prised to see them jump overboard, without a moment's 
 hesitation, all except one man, who, loitering behind and 
 showing some unwillingness to obey, Kaneena took him up 
 in his arms and threw him into the sea. Both these chiefs 
 were men of strong and well-proportioned bodies, and of 
 countenances remarkably pleasing. Kaneena especially, 
 whose portrait was drawn by Mr. Webber, was one of the 
 finest men I ever saw. He was about six feet high, had 
 regular and expressive features, with lively, dark eyes, and 
 his carriage was easy, firm, and graceful. 
 
 It has been already mentioned, that during our long cruise 
 near this island the inhabitants had always behaved with 
 fairness and honesty in their dealings, and had not shown 
 the slightest propensity to theft, which appeared to us the 
 more extraordinary because those with whom we had hitherto 
 held any intercourse were of the lowest rank, either servants 
 or fishermen. We now found the case exceedingly altered ; 
 the immense crowd of islanders, which blocked up every 
 part of the ships, not only afforded frequent opportunity of 
 pilfering, without risk of discovery, but our numerical in- 
 feriority held forth a prospect of escaping with impunity, 
 in case of detection. Another circumstance, to which we 
 attributed this alteration in their behaviour, was the presence 
 and encouragement of their chiefs ; for, generally tracing 
 the booty into the possession of some men of consequence, 
 we had the strongest reason to suspect that these depre- 
 dations were committed at their instigation. 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 425 
 
 Soon after the Resolution had got into her station, our 
 two friends, Pareea and Kaneena, brought on board a third 
 chief, named Koah, who, we were told, was a priest, and 
 had been in his youth a distinguished warrior. He was a 
 little old man, of an emaciated figure, his eyes exceedingly 
 sore and red, and his body covered with a white leprous 
 scurf, the effects of an immoderate use of the ava. Being 
 led into the cabin, he approached Captain Cook with great 
 veneration, and threw over his shoulders a piece of red 
 cloth, which he had brought along with him ; then, stepping 
 a few paces back, he made an offering of a small pig, which 
 he held in his hand whilst he pronounced a discourse, that 
 lasted for a considerable time. This ceremony was frequently 
 repeated during our stay at Owhyhee, and appeared to us, 
 from many circumstances, to be a sort of religious adoration. 
 Their idols we found always arrayed with red cloth, in the 
 same manner as was done to Captain Cook, and a small 
 pig was their usual offering to the Eatooas. Their speeches, 
 or prayers, were uttered, too, with a readiness and volubihty 
 that indicated them to be according to some formulary. 
 When this ceremony was over, Koah dined with Captain 
 Cook, eating plentifully of what was set before him, but, 
 like the rest of the inhabitants of the islands in these seas, 
 could scarcely be prevailed on to taste, a second time, our 
 wine or spirits. In the evening, Captain Cook, attended by 
 Mr. Bayley and myself, accompanied him on shore. We 
 landed at the beach, and were received by four men, who 
 carried wands tipped with dogs' hair, and marched before 
 us, pronouncing, with a loud voice, a short sentence, in 
 which we could only distinguish the word " Orono."* Captain 
 
 * Mr. S. S. Hill, in his "Travels in the Sandwich and Suciety Islands," says 
 that the natives call Captain Cook " Lono," and entertain tht greatest veneration 
 for his memory. It appears that, at the time of Cook's visit, there were tradi- 
 tions among the people concerning the life and actions of some wonderful person 
 named Lono, who had long since suddenly disappeared — supposed to be blown 
 off the coast in his canoe — but who, it was believed, would one day reappear. 
 Though several generations had passed away, Captain Cook was supposed to be 
 this Lono ; and, though their god or hero was transformed to a white man, ac- 
 companied by men ot another race as his subjects, and without any recollection 
 of his former language, yet the supernatural resuscitation and return of their 
 hero gave rise to no inquiry or surprise. 
 
425 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 Cook generally went by this name amongst the natives of 
 Ovvhyhee, bat we could never learn its precise meaning ; 
 sometimes they applied it to an invisible being, who, they 
 said, lived in the heavens ; and we also found that it was a 
 title belonging to a personage of great rank or power in the 
 island. The crowd which had been collected on the shore 
 retired at our approach, and not a person was to be seen, 
 except a few lying prostrate on the ground, near the huts of 
 the adjoining village. 
 
 Before I proceed to relate the adoration that was paid to 
 Captain Cook, and the peculiar ceremonies with which he 
 was received on this fatal island, it will be necessary to 
 describe the morai, situated, as I have already mentioned, at 
 the south side of the beach at Kakooa. It was a square, 
 solid pile of stones, about forty yards long, twenty broad, and 
 fourteen in height ; the top was flat and well paved, and 
 surrounded by a wooden rail, on which were fixed the skulls 
 of the captives sacrificed on the death of their chiefs. In the 
 centre of the area stood a ruinous old building of wood, con- 
 nected with the rail on each side by a stone wall, which 
 divided the whole space into two parts. On the side next 
 the country were five poles, upwards of twenty feet high, 
 supporting an irregular kind of scaffold ; and on the opposite 
 side, toward the sea, stood two small houses with a covered 
 communication. We were conducted by Koah to the top of 
 this pile by an easy ascent, leading from the beach to the 
 north-west corner of the area. At the entrance we saw two 
 large wooden images, with features violently distorted, and a 
 long piece of carved wood, of a conical form inverted, rising 
 from the top of their heads ; the rest was without form, and 
 wrapped round with red cloth. We were here met by a tall 
 young man with a long beard, who presented Captain Cook 
 to the images, and, after chanting a kind of hymn, in which 
 he was joined by Koah, they led us to that end of the morai 
 where the five poles were fixed. At the foot of them were 
 twelve images ranged in a semicircular form, and before the 
 middle figure stood a high stand or table, exactly resembling 
 the ^' whatta" of Otaheite, on which lay a putrid hog, and under 
 it pieces of sugar-cane, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, plantains, 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 427 
 
 and sweet potatoes. Koah having placed the captain under 
 this stand, took down the hog, and held it towards him ; and 
 after having a second time addressed him in a long speech, 
 pronounced with much vehemence and rapidity, he let it fall to 
 the ground, and led him to the scaffolding, which they began 
 to climb together, not without great risk of falling. At this 
 time we saw coming in solemn procession, at the entrance of 
 the top of the morai, two men carrying a live hog and a 
 large piece of red cloth ; having advanced a few paces, they 
 stopped and prostrated themselves, and Kaireekeea, the 
 young man above mentioned, went to them and received the 
 cloth, carried it to Koah, who wrapped it round the captain, 
 and afterwards offered him the hog, which was brought by 
 Kaireekeea with the same ceremony. 
 
 Whilst Captain Cook was aloft in tnis awkward situation, 
 swathed round with red cloth, and with difficulty keeping his 
 hold amongst the pieces of rotten scaffolding, Kaireekeea 
 and Koah began their office, chanting sometimes in concert, 
 and sometimes alternately. This lasted a considerable time, 
 until at length Koah let the hog drop, v/hen he and the 
 captain descended together. He then led him to the images 
 before mentioned, and having said something to each in a 
 sneering tone, snapping his fingers at them as he passed, he 
 brought him to that in the centre, \vhich, from its being 
 covered with red cloth, appeared to be held in greater esti- 
 mation than the rest. Before this figure he prostrated him- 
 self and kissed it, desiring Captain Cook to do the same, who 
 suffered himself to be directed by Koah throughout the 
 whole of this ceremony. We were now led back into the 
 other division . of the morai, where there was a space, ten or 
 twelve feet square, sunk about three feet below the level of 
 the area ; into this we descended, and Captain Cook was 
 seated between the wooden idols, Koah supporting one of 
 his arms, whilst I was desired to support the other. At this 
 time arrived a second procession of natives, carrying a baked 
 hog and a pudding, some bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other 
 vegetables. When they approached us, Kaireekeea put him- 
 self at their head, and presenting the pig to Captain Cook in 
 the usual manner, began the kind of chant as before, his 
 
428 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 companions making regular responses. We observed that, 
 after every response, their parts became gradually shorter, 
 till, toward the close, Kaireekeea's consisted of only two or 
 three words, which the rest answered by the word Orono. 
 
 When this offering was concluded, which lasted a quarter 
 of an hour, the natives sat down fronting us, and began to 
 cut up the baked hog, to peel the vegetables, and break the 
 cocoa-nuts ; whilst others employed themselves in brewing 
 the ava, which is done by chewing it, in the same manner 
 as at the Friendly Islands. Kaireekeea then took part of 
 the kernel of a cocoa-nut, which he chewed, and, wrapping 
 it in a piece of cloth, rubbed with it the captain's face, head, 
 hands, arms, and shoulders. The ava was then handed 
 round, and after we had tasted it, Koah and Pareea began 
 to pull the flesh of the hog in pieces, and to put it into our 
 mouths. I had no great objection to being fed by Pareea, 
 who was very cleanly in his person ; but Captain Cook, who 
 was served by Koah, recollecting the putrid hog, could not 
 swallow a morsel, and his reluctance, as may be supposed, 
 was not diminished, when the old man, accoarding to his 
 own mode of civility, had chewed it for him. When this 
 last ceremony was finished, which Captain Cook put an 
 end to as soon as he decently could, he quitted the morai, 
 after distributing amongst the people some pieces of iron 
 and other trifles, with which they seemed highly gratified. 
 The men with wands conducted us to the boats, repeating 
 the same words as before ; the people again retired, and the 
 few that remained prostrated themselves as we passed along 
 the shore. We immediately went on board, our minds full 
 of what we had seen, and extremely well satisfied with the 
 good disposition of our new friends. The meaning of the 
 various ceremonies with which we had been received, and 
 which, on account of their novelty and singularity, have 
 been related at length, can only be the subject of conjectures, 
 and those uncertain and partial ; they were, however, without 
 doubt, expressive of high respect on the part of the natives, 
 and, as far as related to the person of Captain Cook, they 
 seemed approaching to adoration. 
 
 The next morning I went on shore, with a guard of eight 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 429 
 
 marines, including the corporal and lieutenant, having orders 
 to erect the observatory on the most suitable spot for super- 
 intending and protecting the waterers and the other working 
 parties that were to be on shore. As we were viewing a spot 
 conveniently situated for this purpose in the middle of the 
 village, Pareea, who was always ready to show his power and 
 his goodwill, offered to pull down some houses that would 
 have obstructed our observations ; however, we thought it 
 proper to decline this offer, and fixed on a field of sweet 
 potatoes, adjoining the morai, which was readily granted to 
 us ; and the priests, to prevent the intrusion of the natives, 
 immediately consecrated the place by fixing their wands 
 round the wall by which it was enclosed. This sort of 
 religious interdiction they call "taboo,""^ a word we heard 
 often repeated during our stay amongst these islanders, and 
 found to be of very powerful and extensive operation, and it 
 procured us even more privacy than we desired. No canoes 
 ever presumed to land near us ; the natives sat on the wall, 
 but none offered to come within the tabooed space till he had 
 obtained our permission. 
 
 But though the men, at our request, would come across 
 the field with provisions, yet not all our endeavours could 
 prevail on the women to approach us. Presents were tried, 
 but without effect ; and Pareea and Koah were tempted to 
 bring them, but in vain, as we were invariably answered that 
 the Eatooa and Terreeoboo,t which was the name of their 
 
 * This word " taboo," which, as we have seen, is in use both in the Friendly 
 and Sandwich Islands, has been Anglicised; and to taboo a thing is to forbid or 
 interdict it. 
 
 t At this time Kalamhopun reigned in Owhyhee, and at his death, three ye?.rs 
 later, the eastern portion of the island tell to the share of his son Kiwalao, and 
 the western to his son Kamehameha, who became, subsequently, the most famous 
 warrior and king whose deeds are recorded in the native annals. In a great 
 battle he defeated and slew his brother, and reigned over the whole island. 
 The other chief incidents in the history of these islands are : — The visit of 
 the unfortunate La Peronse, who anchored with his two frigates, in the straits 
 between Mowee and Molokoi, on the 28th of May, 1786 ; the visit to Karakakooa 
 Bay of Vancouver, with the ships Discovery and Chatkavi, on the 3rd of March, 
 1792 ; and again in the following year, and in January, 1794 ; the subjection of 
 the entire group by King Kamehameha, with the assistance of two British sea- 
 men, Young and Davis ; the death of the king, in 1819, at the age ot sixty-six ; 
 the arrival of the first Protestant missionary, in 1820 ; the visit of the young 
 
430 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 king, would kill them. This circumstance afforded no small 
 matter of amusement to our friends on board, where the 
 crowds of people, and particularly of women, that continued 
 to flock thither obliged them almost eveiy hour to clear the 
 vessel, in order to have room to do the necessary duties of 
 the ship. On these occasions two or three hundred women 
 were frequently made to jump into the water at once, where 
 they continued swimming and playing about till they could 
 again procure admittance. 
 
 From the 19th to the 24th, when Pareea and Koah left us 
 to attend Terreeoboo, who had landed on some other part 
 of the island, nothing very material happened on board. 
 The caulkers were set to work on the sides of the ships, and 
 the rigging was carefully overhauled and repaired. The 
 salting of hogs, for sea store, was also one of the principal 
 objects of Captain Cook's attention, and met with complete 
 success. 
 
 We had not long been settled on shore at the observatory 
 before we discovered, in our neighbourhood, the habitations 
 of a society of priests, whose regular attendance at this 
 moral had excited our curiosity. Their huts stood round a 
 pond of water, and were surrounded by a grove of cocoa- 
 nut trees, which separated them from the beach and the rest 
 of the village, and gave the place an air of religious retire- 
 ment. On my acquainting Captain Cook with these circum- 
 stances, he resolved to pay them a visit, and as he expected 
 to be received in the same manner as before, he brought Mr. 
 Webber with him to make a drawing of the ceremony. On 
 his arrival at the beach, he was conducted to a sacred build- 
 ing called Harre-no-Orono, or the house of Orono, and seated 
 before the entrance at the foot of a wooden idol, of the same 
 kind with those in the moral. I was here again made to 
 support one of his arms, and, after wrapping him in red 
 cloth, Kaireekeea, accompanied by twelve priests, made an 
 
 king Kamehameha tlie Second to England, In 1824, and his death, and that of his 
 queen, in London ; the establishment of the Roman Catholic mission, in 1827 ; 
 the adoption of a constitutional form of government by King Kamehameha the 
 Third, in 1840 ; and the recognition of the independence of the islands by the 
 governments of Queen Victoria and Louis Philippe, in 1843. 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 431 
 
 offering of a pig with the usual solemnities. The pig was 
 then strangled, and a fire being kindled, it was thrown into 
 the embers, and after the hair was singed off, it was again 
 presented with a repetition of the chanting, in the manner 
 before described. The dead pig was then held for a short 
 time under the captain's nose, after which it was laid with a 
 cocoa-nut at his feet, and the performers sat down. The ava 
 was then brewed and handed round ; a fat hog, ready dressed, 
 was brought in, and we here fed as before. 
 
 During the rest of the time we remained in the bay, when- 
 ever Captain Cook came on shore he was attended by one of 
 these priests, who went before him, giving notice that the 
 Orono had landed, and ordering the people to prostrate 
 themselves. The same person also constantly accompanied 
 him on the water, standing in the bow of the boat, with a 
 wand in his hand, and giving notice of his approach to the 
 natives, who were in canoes, on which they immediately left 
 off paddling and lay down on their faces till he had passed. 
 Whenever we stopped at the observatory, Kaireekeea and his 
 brethren immediately made their appearance with hogs, 
 cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, &c., and presented them with the 
 usual solemnities. It was on these occasions that some of 
 the inferior chiefs frequently requested to be permitted to 
 make an offering to the Orono ; when this was granted, they 
 presented the hog themselves, generally with evident marks 
 of fear in their countenances, whilst Kaireekeea and the 
 priests chanted their accustomed hymns. 
 
 The civilities of this society were not, however, confined to 
 mere ceremony and parade. Our party on shore received 
 from them, every day, a constant supply of hogs and vege- 
 tables, more than sufficient for our subsistence, and several 
 canoes, loaded with provisions,' were sent to the ships with 
 the same punctuality. No return was ever demanded or 
 even hinted at in the most distant manner. Their presents 
 were made with a regularity more like the discharge of a 
 religious duty than the effort of mere liberality ; and when 
 we inquired at whose charge all this munificence was dis- 
 played, we were told it was at the expense of a great man 
 called Kaoo, the chief of the priests, and grandfather of 
 
432 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 Kaireekeea, who was at that time absent, attending the king 
 of the island. 
 
 As everything relating to the character and behaviour of 
 this people must be interesting to the reader, on account of 
 the tragedy that was afterwards acted here, it will be proper 
 to acquaint him that we had not always so much reason to 
 be satisfied with the conduct of the warrior chiefs, or Earees, 
 as with that of the priests. In all our dealings with the 
 former we found them sufficiently attentive to their own 
 interests ; and besides their habit of stealing, which may 
 admit of some excuse from the universality of the practice 
 amongst the islanders of these seas, they made use of other 
 artifices equally dishonourable. 
 
 Things continued in this state till the 24th, when we were 
 a good deal surprised to find that no canoes were suffered to 
 put off from the shore, and that the natives kept close to 
 their houses. After several hours' suspense, we learned that 
 the bay was tabooed, and all intercourse with us interdicted 
 on account of the arrival of Terreeoboo. As we had not 
 foreseen an accident of this sort, the crews of both ships 
 were obliged to pass the day without their usual supply of 
 vegetables. The next morning, therefore, they endeavoured, 
 both by threats and promises, to induce the natives to come 
 alongside, and, as some of them were at last venturing to 
 come off, a chief was observed attempting to drive them 
 away. A musket was immediately fired over his head to 
 make him desist, which had the desired effect, and supplies 
 were soon after purchased as usual. In the afternoon, 
 Terreeoboo arrived, and visited the ships in a private manner, 
 attended only by one canoe, in which were his wife and 
 children. He stayed on board till near ten o'clock, when he 
 returned to the village of Kowrowa. 
 
 The next day, about noon, the king, in a large canoe, 
 attended by two others, set out from the village, and 
 paddled towards the ships in great state, presenting a 
 striking appearance. In the first canoe was Terreeoboo 
 and his chiefs, dressed in their rich feathered cloaks and 
 helmets, and armed with long spears and daggers ; in the 
 second canoe the venerable Kaoo, the chief of the priests, 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 433 
 
 and his brethren, with their idols displayed on red cloth. 
 These idols were busts of a gigantic size, made of wicker- 
 work, and curiously covered with small feathers of various 
 colours, wrought in the same manner as their cloaks ; 
 their eyes were made of large pearl oysters, with a black 
 nut fixed in the centre, and their mouths were set with a 
 double row of the fangs of dogs, and, together with the 
 rest of their features, were strangely distorted. The third 
 canoe was filled with hogs and various sorts of vegetables. 
 As they went along, the priests in the centre canoe sung 
 their hymns with great solemnity, and, after paddling round 
 the ships, instead of going on board, as was expected, they 
 made towards the shore at the beach where we were 
 stationed. As soon as I saw them approaching, I ordered 
 out our little guard to receive the king ; and Captain Cook, 
 perceiving that he was going on shore, followed him, and 
 arrived nearly at the same time. We conducted them 
 into the tent, where they had scarcely been seated, when 
 the king rose up, and, in a very graceful manner, threw 
 over the captain's shoulders the cloak he himself wore, 
 put a feathered helmet upon his head and a curious fan 
 into his hand. He also spread at his feet five or six other 
 cloaks, all exceedingly beautiful, and of the greatest value. 
 His attendants then brought four very large hogs, with 
 sugar-canes, cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit ; and this part of 
 the ceremony was concluded by the king's exchanging 
 names with Captain Cook, which, amongst all the islanders - 
 of the Pacific Ocean, is esteemed the strongest pledge of 
 friendship. A procession of priests, with a venerable old 
 personage at their head, now appeared, followed by a long 
 train of men leading large hogs, and others with plantains, 
 sweet potatoes, and other articles of food. By the looks 
 and gestures of Kaireekeea, I immediately knew the old 
 man to be the chief of the priests before mentioned, on 
 whose bounty we had so long subsisted. He had a piece 
 of red cloth in his hands, which he wrapped round Captain 
 Cook's shoulders, and afterwards presented him with a 
 small pig in the usual form. A seat was then made for 
 him next to the king, after which Kaireekeea and his 
 
 2 E 
 
434 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 followers began their ceremonies, Kaoo and the chiefs 
 joining in the responses. 
 
 I was surprised to see, in the person of this king, the 
 same infirm and emaciated old man that came en board 
 the Resolution when we were off the north-east side of the 
 island of Mowee, and we soon discovered amongst his 
 attendants most of the persons who, at that time, had 
 remained with us all night. Of this number were the two 
 younger sons of the king, the eldest of whom was sixteen 
 years of age, and his nephew Maiha-Maiha, whom at first 
 we had some difficulty in recollecting, his hair being plastered 
 over with a dirty brown paste and powder, which was no 
 mean heightening to the most savage face I ever beheld. 
 As soon as the formalities of the meeting were over, Captain 
 Cook carried Terreeoboo, and as many chiefs as the pinnace 
 would hold, on board the Resolution. They were received 
 with every mark of respect that could be shown them. And 
 Captain Cook, in return for the feathered cloaks, put a 
 linen shirt on the king and girt his own hanger round him. 
 Kaoo and about half a dozen old chiefs remained on shore, 
 and took up their abode at the priests' houses. During all 
 this time not a canoe was seen in the bay, and the natives 
 either kept within their huts, or lay prostrate on the ground. 
 Before the king left the Resolution, Captain Cook obtained 
 leave for the natives to come and trade with the ships as 
 usual ; but the women, for what reason we could not learn, 
 still continued under the effects of the taboo. 
 
 The quiet and inoffensive behaviour of the natives having 
 taken away every apprehension of danger, we did not hesitate 
 to trust ourselves amongst them at all times and in all situa- 
 tions. The officers of both ships went daily up the country 
 in small parties, or even singly, and frequently remained out 
 the whole night. It would be endless to recount all the 
 instances of kindness and civility which we received upon 
 these occasions ; wherever we went the people flocked about 
 us, eager to offer any assistance in their power, and highly 
 gratified if their services were accepted. Various little arts 
 were practised to attract our notice, or to delay our departure. 
 The boys and girls ran before us as we walked through the 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 435 
 
 villages, and stopped us at every opening where there was 
 room to form a group for dancing. At one time we were 
 v/anted to accept a draught of cocoa-nut milk, or some other 
 refreshment, under the shade of their huts ; at another we 
 were seated within a circle of young women, who exerted 
 their skill and agility to amuse us with songs and dances. 
 
 The satisfaction we derived from their gentleness and 
 hospitality was, however, frequently interrupted by the pro- 
 pensity to stealing which they have in common with all the 
 other islanders of these seas. This circumstance was the 
 more distressing as it sometimes obliged us to have recourse 
 to acts of severity, which we would willingly have avoided 
 if the necessity of the case had not absolutely called for 
 them. Some of their most expert swimmers were one day 
 discovered under the ships, drawing out the filling-nails of 
 the sheathing, which they performed very dexterously, by 
 means of a short stick with a flint stone fixed in the end of 
 it. To put a stop to this practice, which endangered the 
 very existence of the vessels, we at first fired small shot at 
 the offenders, but they easily got out of our reach by diving 
 under the ship's bottom ; it was therefore found necessary 
 to make an example by flogging one of them on board the 
 Discovery. 
 
 About this time a large party of gentlemen, from both 
 ships, set out on an excursion into the interior of the country, 
 with a view of examining its natural productions ; and it 
 afforded Kaoo a fresh opportunity of showing his attention 
 and generosity, for as soon as he was informed of their 
 departure he sent a large supply of provisions after them, 
 together with orders that the inhabitants of the country 
 through which they were to pass should give them every 
 assistance in their power ; and, to complete the delicacy 
 and disinterestedness of his conduct, even the people we 
 employed could not be prevailed on to accept the smallest 
 present. After remaining out six days our officers returned, 
 without having been able to penetrate above twenty miles 
 into the island, partly from want of proper guides and partly 
 from the impracticability of the country. 
 
 The head of the Resolution's rudder being found ex- 
 
436 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 ceedingly shaken, and most of the pintles either loose or 
 broken, it was unhung, and taken on shore on the 27th to 
 undergo a thorough repair. At the same time the carpenters 
 were sent into the country, under conduct of some of Kaoo's 
 people, to cut planks for the head-railwork, which was also 
 entirely decayed and rotten. On the 28th Captain Gierke, 
 whose ill-health confined him for the most part on board, 
 paid Terreeoboo his first visit at his hut on shore. He was 
 received with the same formalities as were observed towards 
 Captain Cook ; and on his coming away, though the visit 
 was quite unexpected, he received a present of thirty large 
 hogs, and as much fruit and roots as his crew could consume 
 in a week. 
 
 As we had not seen anything of their sports or athletic 
 exercises, the natives, at the request of some of our officers, 
 entertained us this evening with a boxing match. Though 
 these games were much inferior, as well in point of solemnity 
 and magnificence as in the skill and prowess of the com- 
 batants, to what we had seen exhibited at the Friendly 
 Islands, yet, as they differed in some particulars, it may not 
 be improper to give a short account of them. We found a 
 vast concourse of people assembled on a level spot of ground, 
 at a little distance from our tents. A long space was left 
 vacant in the midst of them, at the upper end of which 
 sat the judges under three standards, from which hung 
 slips of cloth of various colours, the skins of wild geese, a 
 few small birds, and bunches of feathers. When the sports 
 were ready to begin the signal was given by the judges, and 
 immediately two combatants appeared. They came forward 
 slowly, lifting up their feet very high behind, and drawing 
 their hands along the soles. As they approached they fre- 
 quently eyed each other from head to foot in a contemptuous 
 manner, casting several arch looks at the spectators, straining 
 their muscles, and using a variety of affected gestures. Being 
 advanced within reach of each other, they stood with both 
 arms held out straight before their faces, at which part all their 
 blows were aimed. They struck in what appeared to our eyes 
 an awkward manner, with a full swing of the arm ; made no 
 attempt to parry, but eluded their adversary's attack by an 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 437 
 
 inclination of the body, or by retreating. The battle was 
 quickly decided, for if either of them was knocked down, or 
 even fell by accident, he was considered as vanquished, and 
 the victor expressed his triumph by a variety of gestures, 
 which usually excited, as was intended, a loud laugh among 
 the spectators. He then waited for a second antagonist, 
 and if again victorious, for a third, till he was at last in his 
 turn defeated. A singular rule observed in these combats 
 is, that whilst any two are preparing to fight, a third person 
 may step in, and choose either of them for his antagonist, 
 when the other is obliged to withdraw. Sometimes three or 
 four followed each other in this manner before the match 
 was settled. When the combat proved longer than usual, 
 or appeared too unequal, one of the chiefs generally stepped 
 in, and ended it by putting a stick between the combatants. 
 The same good-humour was preserved throughout which we 
 before so much admired in the Friendly Islanders. As these 
 games were given at our desire, we found it universally ex- 
 pected that we should have borne our part in them ; but our 
 people, though much pressed by the natives, turned a deaf 
 ear to their challenge, remembering full well the blows they 
 got at the Friendly Islands. 
 
 This day died William Watman, a seaman of the gunner's 
 crew, an event which I mention the more particularly, as 
 death had hitherto been very rare amongst us. He was an 
 old man, and much respected on account of his attachment 
 to Captain Cook. He had formerly served as a marine 
 twenty-one years ; after which he entered as a seaman on 
 board the ResohUioji in 1772, and served with Captain Cook 
 in his voyage towards the South Pole. On their return, he 
 was admitted into Greenwich Hospital through the captain's 
 interest, at the same time with himself ; and being resolved 
 to follow throughout the fortunes of his benefactor, he also 
 quitted it along with him on his being appointed to the com* 
 mand of the present expedition. 
 
 At the request of the king of the island, he was buried on 
 the moral, and the ceremony was performed with as much 
 solemnity as our situation permitted. Old Kaoo and his 
 brethren were spectators, and preserved the most profound 
 
438 COOICS VOYAGES. 
 
 silence and attention whilst the service was reading. When 
 we began to fill up the grave, they approached it with great 
 reverence, threw in a dead pig, some cocoa-nuts, and plan- 
 tains ; and, for three nights afterwards, they surrounded it, 
 sacrificing hogs, and performing their usual ceremonies of 
 hymns and prayers, which continued till daybreak. At the 
 head of the grave we erected a post, and nailed upon it a 
 square piece of board, on which was inscribed the name of 
 the deceased, his age, and the day of his death. This they 
 promised not to remove ; and we have no doubt but that it 
 will be suffered to remain as long as the frail materials of 
 which it is made will permit. 
 
 The ships being in great want of fuel, Captain Cook 
 desired me, on the 2nd of February, to treat with the priests 
 for the purchase of the rail that surrounded the top of the 
 moral. I must confess I had at first some doubt about the 
 decency of this proposal, and was apprehensive that even the 
 bare mention of it might be considered by them as a piece of 
 shocking impiety. 
 
 In this, however, I found myself mistaken ; not the smallest 
 surprise was expressed at the application, and the wood 
 was readily given, even without stipulating for anything in 
 return. Whilst the sailors were taking it away, I observed 
 one of them carrying off a carved image ; and, on further 
 inquiry, I found that they had conveyed to the boats the 
 whole semicircle. Though this was done in the presence of 
 the natives, who had not shown any mark of resentment at 
 it, but had even assisted them in the removal, I thought it 
 proper to speak to Kaoo on the subject, who appeared very 
 indifferent about the matter, and only desired that we would 
 restore the centre image I have mentioned before, which he 
 carried into one of the priest's houses. 
 
 Terreeoboo and his chiefs had for some days past been 
 very inquisitive about the time of our departure. This circum- 
 stance had excited in me a great curiosity to know what 
 opinion this people had formed of us, and what were their 
 ideas respecting the cause and objects of our voyage. I took 
 some pains to satisfy myself on these points, but could never 
 learn anything further than that they imagined we came 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 439 
 
 from some countryj where provisions had failed, and that 
 our visit to them was merely for the purpose of filling our 
 bellies ; indeed, the meagre appearance of some of our crew, 
 the hearty appetites with which we sat down to their fresh 
 provisions, and our great anxiety to purchase as much as we 
 were able, led them naturally enough to such a conclusion. 
 To these may be added a circumstance which puzzled them 
 exceedingly, our having no women with us, together with our 
 quiet conduct and unwarlike appearance. It was ridiculous 
 enough to see them stroking the sides, and patting the 
 bellies of the sailors, who were certainly much improved in 
 the sleekness of their looks during our short stay on the 
 island, and telling them, partly by signs, and partly by words, 
 that it was time for them to go ; but if they would come 
 again the next bread-fruit season, they should be better able 
 to supply their wants. 
 
 We had now been sixteen days in the bay ; and if our 
 enormous consumption of hogs and vegetables be con- 
 sidered, it need not be wondered that they should wish to 
 see us take our leave. It is very probable, however, that 
 Terreeoboo had no other view in his inquiries at present 
 than a desire of making sufficient preparation for dismissing 
 us with presents suitable to the respect and kindness with 
 which he had received us ; for, on our telling him we should 
 leave the island on the next day but one, we observed tliat 
 a sort of proclamation was immediately made through the 
 villages to require the people to bring in their hogs and vege- 
 tables, for the king to present to the Orono on his departure. 
 
 We were this day much diverted, at the beach, by the 
 buffooneries of one of the natives. His style of dancing was 
 entirely burlesque, and accompanied with strange grimaces 
 and pantomimical distortions of the face, which, though at 
 times inexpressibly ridiculous, yet, on the whole, was without 
 much meaning or expression. In the evening, we were 
 again entertained with wrestling and boxing matches, and 
 we displayed in return the few fireworks we had left. 
 Nothing could be better calculated to excite the admiration 
 of these islanders, and to impress them with an idea of our 
 great superiority, than an exhibition of this kind. 
 
440 COOICS VOYAGES. 
 
 The carpenters from both ships having been sent up the 
 country to cut planks for the head-railwork of the Resolution, 
 this being the third day since their departure, we began 
 to be very anxious for their safety. We now communicated 
 our apprehensions to old Kaoo, who appeared as much con- 
 cerned as ourselves, and were concerting measures with him 
 for sending after them, when they arrived in safety. They 
 had been obliged to go farther into the country than was 
 expected, before they met with trees fit for their purpose ; 
 and it was this circumstance, together with the badness of 
 the roads and the difficulty of bringing back the timber, 
 which had detained them so long. They spoke in high 
 terms of their guides, who both supplied them with pro- 
 visions, and guarded their tools with the utmost fidelity. 
 The next day being fixed for our departure, Terreeoboo 
 invited Captain Cook and myself to attend him on the 3rd to 
 the place where Kaoo resided. On our arrival, we found 
 the ground covered with parcels of cloth, a vast quantity 
 of red and yellow feathers tied to the fibres of cocoa-nut 
 husks, and a great number of hatchets and other pieces of 
 iron-ware that had been got in barter from us. At a little 
 distance from these lay an immense quantity of vegetables 
 of every kind, and near them was a large herd of hogs. 
 At first, we imagined the whole to be intended as a present 
 for us, till Kaireekeea informed me that it was a gift or 
 tribute from the people of that district to the king ; and 
 accordingly, as we were seated, they brought all the bundles 
 and laid them severally at Terreeoboo's feet, spreading out 
 the cloth and displaying the feathers and iron-ware before 
 him. The king seemed much pleased with this mark of their 
 duty ; and having selected about a third part of the iron- 
 ware, the same proportion of feathers, and a few pieces of 
 cloth, these were set aside by themselves, and the remainder 
 of the cloth, together with all the hogs and vegetables, were 
 afterwards presented to Captain Cook and myself We 
 were astonished at the value and magnitude of this present, 
 which exceeded everything of the kind we had seen either 
 at the Friendly or Society Islands. Boats were immediately 
 sent to carry them on board ; the large hogs were picked 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 441 
 
 out to be salted for sea store, and upwards of thirty smaller 
 pigs and the vegetables were divided between the two crews. 
 
 The same day we quitted the moral and got the tents 
 and astronomical instruments on board. The charm of the 
 taboo was now removed, and we had no sooner left the 
 place, than the natives rushed in and searched eagerly 
 about, in expectation of finding something of value that we 
 might have left behind. As I happened to remain the last 
 on shore, and waited for the return of the boat, several came 
 crowding round me, and having made me sit down by them, 
 began to lament our separation. 
 
 It was, indeed, not without difficulty I was able to quit 
 them. Having had the command of the party on shore 
 during the whole time we were in the bay, I had an oppor- 
 tunity of becoming better acquainted with the natives, and 
 of being better known to them, than those whose duty re- 
 quired them to be generally on board. As I had every 
 reason to be satisfied with their kindness in general, so I 
 cannot too often nor too particularly mention the unbounded 
 and constant friendship of their priests. On my part I 
 spared no endeavours to conciliate their affections and gain 
 their esteem ; and I had the good fortune to succeed so far, 
 that, when the time of our departure was made known, I was 
 strongly solicited to remain behind, not without offers of the 
 most flattering kind. When I excused myself by saying that 
 Captain Cook would not give his consent, they proposed that 
 I should retire into the mountains, where they said they 
 would conceal me till after the departure of the ships, and 
 on my further assuring them that the captain would not 
 leave the bay without me, Terreeoboo and Kaoo waited 
 upon Captain Cook, whose son they supposed I was, with a 
 formal request that I might be left behind. The captain, to 
 avoid giving a positive refusal to an offer so kindly intended, 
 told them that he could not part with me at that time, but 
 that he should return to the island next year and would then 
 endeavour to settle the matter to their satisfaction. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 4th of February we unmoored 
 and sailed out of the bay, with the Discovery in company, 
 and were foUowed by a great number of canoes. Captain 
 
442 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 Cook's design was to finish the survey of Owhyhee before vv^e 
 visited the other islands, in hopes of meeting with a road 
 better sheltered than the bay we had just left ; and in case 
 of not succeeding here, he purposed to take a view of the 
 south-east part of Mowee, where the natives informed us we 
 should find an excellent harbour. We had calm weather all 
 this and the following day, which made our progress to the 
 northward very slow. We were accompanied by a great 
 number of these natives in their canoes, and Terreeoboo gave 
 a fresh proof of his friendship to Captain Cook by a large pre- 
 sent of hogs and vegetables that was sent after him. 
 
 In the night of the 5th, having a light breeze off the land, 
 we made some way to the northward, and in the morning 
 of the 6th, having passed the westernmost point of the 
 island, we found ourselves abreast of a deep bay called by 
 the natives Toe-yah-yah. We had great hopes that this 
 bay would furnish us with a commodious harbour, as we saw 
 several fine streams of water, and the whole had the appear- 
 ance of being well sheltered. These observations agreeing 
 with the accounts given us by Koah, who accompanied 
 Captain Cook, and had changed his name, out of compliment 
 to us, into Britannee, the pinnace was hoisted out, and the 
 master, with Britannee for his guide, was sent to examine the 
 bay, whilst the ships worked up after them. In the after- 
 noon the weather became gloomy, and the gusts of wind 
 that blew off the land were so violent as to make it necessary 
 to take in all the sails and bring to under the mizzen staysail. 
 All the canoes left us at the beginning of the gale ; and Mr. 
 Bligh, on his return, had the satisfaction of saving an old 
 woman and two men whose canoe had been upset by the 
 violence of the wind, as they were endeavouring to gain the 
 shore. Besides these distressed people, we had a great many 
 women on board whom the natives had left behind, in their 
 hurry to shift for themselves. 
 
 In the evening, the weather being more moderate, we again 
 made sail ; but about midnight it blew so violently as to split 
 both the fore and main-topsails. On the morning of the 
 7th we bent fresh sails, and had fair weather and a light 
 breeze at noon. We were four or five leagues from the shore, 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 4.43 
 
 and as the weather was very unsettled none of the canoes 
 would venture out, so that our guests were obliged to remain 
 with us, much indeed to their dissatisfaction, for they were 
 all sea-sick, and many of them had left young children 
 behind them. 
 
 In the afternoon, though the weather was still squally, we 
 stood in for the land, and being about three leagues from it, 
 saw a canoe, with two men paddling towards us, who we 
 immediately conjectured had been driven off the shore by 
 the late boisterous weather, and therefore stopped the ship's 
 way in order to take them in. These poor wretches were so 
 exhausted with fatigue that, had not one of the natives on 
 board, observing their weakness, jumped into the canoe to 
 their assistance, they would scarcely have been able to fasten 
 it to the rope we had thrown out for that purpose. It was 
 with difficulty we got them up the ship's side, together with 
 a child about four years old, which they had lashed under 
 the thwarts of the canoe, where it had lain with only its head 
 above water. They told us they had left the shore the 
 morning before, and had been from that time without food 
 or water. The usual precautions were taken in giving them 
 victuals, and the child being committed to the care of the 
 women soon perfectly recove'red. 
 
 At midnight a gale of wind came on, which obliged us to 
 double-reef the topsails and send down the topgallant yards. 
 On the 8th, at daybreak, we found that the fore-mast had 
 again given way, the fishes* which were put on the head 
 in King George's or Nootka Sound, on the coast of America, 
 being sprung, and the parts so very defective as to make 
 it absolutely necessary to replace them, and, of course, to 
 unship the mast. In this difficulty Captain Cook was for 
 some time in doubt whether he should run the chance of 
 meeting with a harbour in the islands to leeward or return to 
 Karakakooa. That bay was not so remarkably commodious, 
 in any respect, but that a better might probably be expected, 
 
 * Fish, or fish-piece, is a long piece of hard wood, convex on one side and 
 concave on the other ; two are bound opposite to each other to strengthen the 
 lower masts, or the yards, when they are sprung, to effect which they are well 
 secured by bolts and hoops, or stout rope called woolding. 
 
444 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 both for the purpose of repairing the masts and for pro- 
 curing supplies, of which, it was imagined, the neighbour- 
 hood of Karakakooa had been ah'eady pretty well drained. 
 On the other hand, it was considered as too great a risk 
 to leave a place that was tolerably sheltered, and which, 
 once left, could not be regained, for the mere hope of 
 meeting with a better, the failure of which might perhaps 
 have left us without resource. We therefore continued 
 standing on towards the land, in order to give the natives 
 an opportunity of releasing their friends on board from their 
 confinement ; and at noon, being within a mile of the shore, 
 a few canoes came off to us, but so crowded with people that 
 there was not room in them for any of our guests ; we there- 
 fore hoisted out the pinnace to carry them on shore, and^ 
 the master, who went with them, had directions to examine 
 the south coasts of the bay for water, but returned without 
 finding any. The winds being variable, and a current 
 setting to the northward, we made but little progress in 
 our return ; and at eight o'clock in the evening of the 9th 
 it began to blow very hard from the south-east, which obliged 
 us to close-reef the topsails. At two in the morning of the 
 loth, in a heavy squall, we found ourselves close in with 
 the breakers that lie to the northward of the west point of 
 Owhyhee ; and we had just room to haul off and avoid them, 
 and fired several guns to apprise the Discovery of the danger. 
 In the forenoon the weather was more moderate, and a few 
 canoes came off to us, from which we learnt that the late 
 storms had done much mischief, and that several large 
 canoes had been lost. During the remainder of the day we 
 kept beating about to windward, and before night we were 
 within a mile of the bay ; but not choosing to run in while 
 it was dark, we stood off and on till daylight next morning, 
 when we dropped anchor nearly in the same place as before. 
 We were employed the whole of the nth, and part of the 
 1 2th, in getting out the fore-mast, and sending it with the 
 carpenters on shore. Besides the damage which the head of 
 the mast had sustained, we found the keel exceedingly rotten, 
 having a large hole up the middle of it, capable of holding 
 four or five cocoa-nuts. It was not, however, thought neces- 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 445 
 
 sary to shorten it ; and, fortunately /the logs of red toa-wood, 
 which had been cut at Eimeo for anchor-stocks, were found 
 fit to replace the sprung parts of the fishes. As these repairs 
 were likely to take up several days, Mr. Bayley and myself 
 got the astronomical apparatus on shore, and pitched our 
 tents on the morai, having with us a guard of a corporal and 
 six marines. We renewed our friendly correspondence with 
 the priests, who, for the greater security of the workmen and 
 their tools, tabooed the place where the mast lay, sticking 
 their wands round it as before. The sailmakers were also 
 sent on shore to repair the damages which had taken place 
 in their department during the late gales ; they were lodged 
 in a house adjoining the morai, which was lent to us by the 
 priests. Such were our arrangements on shore. Upon 
 coming to anchor, we were surprised to find our reception 
 very different from what it had been on our first arrival ; no 
 shouts, no bustle, no confusion, but a solitary bay, with only 
 here and there a canoe stealing close along the shore. The 
 impulse of curiosity, which had before operated to so great a 
 degree, might now indeed be supposed to have ceased ; but 
 the hospitable treatment we had invariably met with, and 
 the friendly footing on which we parted, gave us reason to 
 expect that they would again have flocked about us with 
 great joy on our return. We were forming various conjec- 
 tures upon the cause of this extraordinary change, when 
 our anxiety was at length relieved by the return of a beat 
 which had been sent on shore, and brought us word that 
 Terreeoboo w .0 absent, and had left the bay under the taboo. 
 Towards ihe evening of the 13th, the officer who com- 
 manded the watering-party of the Discovery came to inform 
 me that several chiefs had assembled at the well near the 
 beach, driving away the natives, whom he had hired to 
 assist the sailors in rolling down the casks to the shore. He 
 told me at the same time that he thought their behaviour ex- 
 tremely suspicious, and that they meant to cause a disturb- 
 ance. At his request, therefore, I sent a marine along with 
 him, but suffered him to take only his side-arms. In a short 
 time the officer returned, and, on his acquainting me that 
 the islanders had armed themselves with stones, and were 
 
^6 COOICS VOYAGES, 
 
 grown very tumultuous, I went myself to the spot, attended by 
 a marine with his musket. Seeing us approach, they threw 
 away their stones, and on my speaking to some of the chiefs, 
 the mob were driven away, and those who chose it were 
 suffered to assist in filling the casks. Having left things 
 quiet here, I went to meet Captain Cook, whom I saw coming 
 on shore in the pinnace. I related to him what had just 
 passed, and he ordered me, in case of their beginning to 
 throw stones or behave insolently, immediately to fire a ball 
 at the offenders. I accordingly gave orders to the corporal 
 to have the pieces of the sentinels loaded with ball, instead 
 of small shot. 
 
 Soon after our return to the tents we were alarmed by a 
 continued fire of muskets from the Discovery^ which we ob- 
 served to be directed at a canoe that we saw paddHng towards 
 the shore in great haste, pursued by one of our small boats. 
 We immediately concluded that the firing was in conse- 
 quence of some theft, and Captain Cook ordered me to 
 follow him with an armed marine, and to endeavour to seize 
 the people as they came on shore. Accordingly we ran to- 
 wards the place where we supposed the carioe would land, 
 but were too late, the people having quitted it and made 
 their escape into the country before our arrival. We were 
 at this time ignorant that the goods had been already re- 
 stored, and as we thought it probable, from the circumstance 
 we had at first observed, that they might be of importance, 
 were unwilling to relinquish our hopes of recovering them. 
 Having therefore inquired of the natives which way the 
 people had fled, we followed them till it was near dark, when, 
 judging ourselves to be about three miles from the tents, and 
 suspecting that the natives, who frequently encouraged us 
 in the pursuit, were amusing us with false information, we 
 thought it in vain to continue our search any longer, and re- 
 turned to the beach. During our absence a difference of a 
 more serious and unpleasant nature had happened. The 
 officer who had been sent in the small boat, and was return- 
 ing on board with the goods which had been restored, ob- 
 serving Captain Cook and me engaged in the pursuit of the 
 offenders, thought it his duty to seize the canoe which was left 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 447 
 
 drawn up on the shore. Unfortunately this canoe belonged 
 to Pareea, who, arriving at the same moment from on 
 board the Discovery ^ claimed his property, with many pro- 
 testations of his innocence. The officer refusing to give it 
 up, and being joined by the crew of the pinnace, which was 
 waiting for Captain Cook, a scuffle ensued, in which Pareea 
 was knocked down by a violent blow on the head with an 
 oar. The natives who were collected about the spot, and had 
 hitherto been peaceable spectators, immediately attacked 
 our people with such a shower of stones, as forced them to 
 retreat with great precipitation and swim off to a rock at 
 some distance from the shore. The pinnace was immediately 
 ransacked by the islanders, and but for the timely interposi- 
 tion of Pareea, who seemed to have recovered from the blow 
 and forgotten it at the same instant, would soon have been 
 entirely demolished. Having driven away the crowd, he 
 made signs to our people that they might come and take 
 possession of the pinnace, and that he would endeavour to 
 get back the things which had been taken out of it. After 
 their departure he followed them in his canoe, with a mid- 
 shipman's cap and some other trifling articles of the plunder, 
 and with much apparent concern at what had happened, 
 asked if the Orono would kill him, and whether he would 
 permit him to come on board the next day. On being 
 assured that he would be well received, he joined noses (as 
 their custom is) with the officers, in token of friendship, and 
 paddled over to the village of Kowrowa. 
 
 When Captain Cook was informed of what had passed he 
 expressed much uneasiness at it, and said, as we were 
 returning on board, "I am afraid that these people will 
 oblige me to use some violent measures ; for they must 
 not be left to imagine that they have gained an advantage 
 over us." However, as it was too late to take any steps 
 this evening, he contented himself with giving orders that 
 every man and woman on board should be immediately 
 turned out of the ship. As soon as this order was executed 
 I returned on shore ; and our former confidence in the 
 natives being now much abated by the events of the 
 day, I posted a double guard on the moral, with orders 
 
448 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 to call me if they saw any men lurking about the beach. 
 At about eleven o'clock five islanders were observed creep- 
 ing round the bottom of the moral ; they seemed very 
 cautious in approaching us, and, at last, finding themselves 
 discovered, retired out of sight. About midnight one of 
 them venturing up close to the observatory, the sentinel fired 
 over him, on which the man fled, and we passed the re- 
 mainder of the night without further disturbance. Next 
 morning at daylight I went on board the Resolution for the 
 timekeeper, and on my way was hailed by the Discovery, and 
 informed that their cutter had been stolen during the night 
 from the buoy where it was moored. 
 
 When I arrived on board I found the marines arming, and 
 Captain Cook loading his double-barrelled gun. Whilst I 
 was relating to him what had happened to us in the night 
 he interrupted me with some eagerness, and acquainted me 
 with the loss of the Discovery's cutter, and with the prepara- 
 tions he was making for its recovery. It had been his usual 
 practice, whenever anything of consequence was lost at any 
 of the islands in this ocean, to get the king, or some of the 
 principal erees, on board, and to keep them as hostages 
 till it was restored. This method, which had been always 
 attended with success, he meant to pursue on the present 
 occasion ; and at the same time had given orders to stop 
 all the canoes that should attempt to leave the bay, with an 
 intention of seizing and destroying them if he could not 
 recover the cutter by peaceable means. Accordingly the 
 boats of both ships, well manned and armed, were stationed 
 across the bay, and before I left the ship some great guns 
 had been fired at two large canoes that were attempting to 
 escape. It was between seven and eight o'clock when we 
 quitted the ship together ; Captain Cook in the pinnace, 
 having Mr. Phillips and nine marines with him, and myself 
 in the small boat. The last orders I received from him 
 were to quiet the minds of the natives on our side of the 
 bay, by assuring them they should not be hurt, to keep my 
 people together, and to be on my guard. We then parted : 
 the captain went towards Kowrowa, where the king resided, 
 and I proceeded to the beach. My first care, on going 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 449 
 
 ashore, was to give strict orders to the marines to remain 
 within the tent, to load their pieces with ball, aiid not to 
 quit their arms. Afterwards I took a walk to the huts of 
 old Kaoo and the priests, and explained to them, as well 
 as I could, the hostile preparations, which had exceedingly 
 alarmed them. I found that they had already heard of the 
 cutter being stolen, and I assured them that though Captain 
 Cook was resolved to recover it, and to punish the authors 
 of the theft, yet that they, and the people of the village on 
 our side, need not be under the smallest apprehension of 
 suffering any evil from us. I desired the priests to explain 
 this to the people, and to tell them not to be alarmed, but 
 to continue peaceable and quiet. Kaoo asked me, with great 
 earnestness, if Terreeoboo was to be hurt. I assured him he 
 was not, and both he and the rest of his brethren seemed 
 much satisfied with this assurance. 
 
 In the meantime Captain Cook, having called off the 
 launch, which was stationed at the north point of the bay, 
 and taken it along with him, proceeded to Kowrowa, and 
 landed with the lieutenant and nine marines. He imme- 
 diately marched into the village, where he was received with 
 the usual marks of respect, the people prostrating themselves 
 before him, and bringing their accustomed offerings of small 
 hogs. Finding that there was no suspicion of his design, his 
 next step was to inquire for Terreeoboo and the two boys, 
 his sons, who had been his constant guests on board the 
 Resolutio7i. In a short time the boys returned along with 
 the natives who had been in search of them, and immediately 
 led Captain Cook to the house where the king had slept, and 
 after a short conversation with him about the loss of the 
 cutter, from which Captain Cook was convinced that he was 
 in nowise privy to it, he invited him to return in the boat 
 and spend the day on board the Resolution. To this pro- 
 posal the king readily assented, and immediately got up to 
 accompany him. 
 
 Things were in this prosperous train, the two boys being 
 already in the pinnace, and the rest of the party having 
 advanced near the water-side, when an elderly woman 
 called Kanee-Kabareea, the mother of the boys, and one of 
 the king's favourite wives, came after him, and, with many 
 
 2 F 
 
450 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 tears and entreaties, besought him not to go on board. At 
 the same time, two chiefs, who came along with her, laid hold 
 of him and forced him to sit down. The natives, who were 
 collecting in prodigious numbers along the shore, and had 
 probably been alarmed by the firing of the great guns and 
 the appearance of hostility in the bay, began to throng round 
 Captain Cook and their king. In this situation, the lieu- 
 tenant of marines observing that his men were huddled 
 close together in the crowd, and thus incapable of using 
 their arms, if any occasion should require it, proposed to the 
 captain to draw them up along the rocks close to the 
 water's edge ; and the crowd readily making way for 
 them to pass, they were drawn up in a line, at the distance 
 of about thirty yards from the place where the king was 
 sitting. All this time the old king remained on the ground, 
 with the strongest marks of terror and dejection in his 
 countenance. Captain Cook, not willing to abandon the 
 object for which he had come on shore, continued to urge 
 him in the most pressing manner to proceed ; whilst, on 
 the other hand, whenever the king appeared inclined to 
 follow him, the chiefs, who stood round him, interposed, 
 at first with prayers and entreaties, but afterwards with force 
 and violence, insisting on his staying where he was. Captain 
 Cook, therefore, finding that the alarm had spread too 
 generally, and that it was in vain to think any longer of 
 getting the king off without bloodshed, at last gave up the 
 point, observing to Mr. Phillips that it would be impossible 
 to compel him to go on board without the risk of killing 
 a great number of the inhabitants. 
 
 Though the enterprise which had carried Captain Cook 
 on shore had now failed, and was abandoned, yet his person 
 did not appear to have been in the least danger till an 
 accident happened, which gave a fatal turn to the affair. 
 The boats which had been stationed across the bay having 
 fired at some canoes that were attempting to get out, un- 
 fortunately had killed a chief of the first rank. The news 
 of his death arrived at the village where Captain Cook 
 was, just as he had left the king and was walking slowly 
 towards the shore. The ferment it made was very con- 
 spicuous ; the women and children were immediately sent 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 451 
 
 off, and the men put on their war-mats and armed them- 
 selves with spears and stones. One of the natives having 
 in his hands a stone and a large iron spike, which they call 
 a pahooa, came up to the captain, flourishing his weapon 
 by way of defiance, and threatening to throw the stone. 
 The captain desired him to desist, but the man persisting 
 in his insolence, he was at length provoked to fire a load 
 of small shot. The man having his mat on, which the shot 
 were not able to penetrate, this had no other effect than to 
 irritate and encourage them. Several stones were thrown at 
 the marines, and one of the erees attempted to stab Mr. 
 Phillips with his pahooa, but failed in the attempt, and re- 
 ceived from him a blow with the butt-end of his musket. 
 Captain Cook now fired his second barrel loaded with ball, 
 and killed one of the foremost of the natives. A general 
 attack with stones immediately followed, which was answered 
 by a discharge of musketry from the marines and the people 
 in the boats. The islanders, contrary to the expectations of 
 every one, stood the fire with great firmness, and before the 
 marines had time to reload, they broke in upon them with 
 dreadful shouts and yells. What followed was a scene of 
 the utmost horror and confusion. 
 
 Four of the marines were cut off amongst the rocks in 
 their retreat, and fell a sacrifice to the fury of the enemy ; 
 three more were dangerously wounded, and the lieutenant, 
 who had received a stab between the shoulders with a 
 pahooa, having fortunately reserved his fire, shot the man 
 who had wounded him just as he was going to repeat his 
 blow. Our unfortunate commander, the last time he was 
 seen distinctly, was standing at the water's edge, and calling 
 out to the boats to cease firing and to pull in. Whilst he 
 faced the natives none of them had oftered him any violence, 
 but having turned about to give his orders to the boats he 
 was stabbed in the back, and fell with his face into the 
 water. On seeing him fall the islanders set up a great 
 shout, and his body was immediately dragged on shore and 
 surrounded by the enemy, who, snatching the dagger out of 
 each other's hands, showed a savage eagerness to have a 
 share in his destruction. 
 
 Thus fell our great and excellent commander ! After a 
 
452 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 life of so much distinguished and successful enterprise, his 
 death, as far as regards himself, cannot be reckoned pre- 
 mature, since he lived to finish the great work for which he 
 seemed to have been designed; and was rather removed 
 from the enjoyment than cut off from the acquisition of 
 glory. How sincerely his loss was felt and lamented by 
 those who had so long found their general security in his 
 skill and conduct, and every consolation under their hard- 
 ships in his tenderness and humanity, it is neither necessary 
 nor possible for me to describe ; much less shall I attempt 
 to paint the horror with which we were struck, and the 
 universal dejection and dismay which followed so dreadful 
 and unexpected a calamity. 
 
 The only other account of the circumstances attending the 
 death of Captain Cook is by Lieutenant Phillips, the officer 
 commanding the detachment of marines forming the escort. 
 He says : — 
 
 "Captain Cook landed at the town situated within the 
 north-west point with his pinnace and launch, leaving the 
 small cutter off the point, to prevent the escape of any 
 canoes that might be disposed to get off. At his landing 
 he ordered nine marines, whom he had in the boats, and 
 myself on shore to attend him, and immediately marched 
 into the town, where he inquired for Terreeoboo and the two 
 boys (his sons, who had lived principally with Captain Cook 
 on board the Resohition, since Terreeoboo's first arrival 
 among us). Messengers were immediately dispatched, and 
 the two boys soon came, and conducted us to their father's 
 house. After waiting some time on the outside Captain 
 Cook doubted the old gentleman being there, and sent me 
 in that I might inform him. I found our old acquaintance 
 just awoke from sleep ; when, upon my acquainting him that 
 Captain Cook was at the door, he very readily went with me 
 to him. Captain Cook, after some little conversation, ob- 
 served that Terreeoboo was quite innocent of what had 
 happened, and proposed to the old gentleman to go on 
 board with him, which he readily agreed to, and we ac- 
 cordingly proceeded towards the boats, but having advanced 
 , near to the waterside, an elderly woman, whose name was 
 Karnacubrai, one of his wives, came to him, and with many 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 453 
 
 tears and entreaties begged he would not go on board ; at 
 the same time two chiefs laid hold of him, and insisting 
 that he should not, made him sit down ; the old man now 
 appeared dejected and frightened. It was at this period wa 
 first began to suspect that they were not very well disposed 
 to us, and the marines being huddled together in the midst 
 of an immense mob, composed of at least two or three 
 thousand people, I proposed to Captain Cook that they 
 might be arranged in order along the rocks by the water- 
 side, which he approving of the crowd readily made way for 
 them, and they were drawn up accordingly. We now clearly 
 saw they were collecting their spears, &c., but an awful rascal 
 of a priest was singing and making a ceremonious offering 
 to the captain and Terreeoboo, to divert their attention 
 from the manoeuvres of the surrounding multitude. Captain 
 Cook now gave up all thoughts of taking Terreeoboo on 
 board, with the following observations to me, ' We can never 
 think of compelling him to go on board without killing a 
 number of these people,' and I believe was just going to 
 give orders to embark, when he was interrupted by a fellow 
 armed with a long iron spike, which they call a pahooah, 
 and a stone. This man made a flourish with his pahooah, 
 and threatened to throw his stone, upon which Captain Cook 
 discharged a load of small shot at him ; but he having his 
 mat the shot did not penetrate it, and had no other effect 
 than farther to provoke and encourage them. I could not 
 observe the least fright it occasioned. Immediately upon 
 this an aree, armed with a pahooah, attempted to stab me, 
 but I foiled his attempt by giving him a severe blow with 
 the butt-end of my musket. Just at this time they began to 
 throw stones, and one of the marines was knocked down. 
 The captain then fired a ball and killed a man. They now 
 made a general attack, and the captain gave orders to the 
 marines to firej and afterwards called out, * Take to the 
 boats.' I fired just after the captain, and loaded again 
 whilst the marines fired. Almost instantaneously upon my 
 repeating the orders to take to the boats, I was knocked 
 down by a stone, and in rising received a stab with a 
 pahooah in the shoulder ; my antagonist was upon the point 
 of seconding his blow when I shot him dead. The business 
 
454 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 now was a most miserable scene of confusion. The shouts 
 and yells of the Indians far exceeded all the noise I ever 
 came in the way of. These fellows, instead of retiring upon 
 being fired upon, as Captain Cook and, I believed, most 
 people concluded they would, acted so very contrary a part, 
 that they never gave the soldiers time to reload their pieces, 
 but immediately broke in upon them, and would have killed 
 every man of them had not the boats, by a smart fire, kept 
 them a little off, and picked up those who were not too 
 much wounded to reach them. After being knocked down 
 I saw no more of Captain Cook. All my people, I observed, 
 were totally vanquished, and endeavouring to save their lives 
 by getting to the boats ; I therefore scrambled, as well as I 
 could, into the water, and made for the pinnace, which I 
 fortunately got hold of, but not before I had received another 
 blow from a stone just above the temple, which, had not the 
 pinnace been very near, would have sent me to the bottom." 
 To proceed with Captain King's narrative : — 
 It has been already related that four of the marines who 
 attended Captain Cook were killed by the islanders on the 
 spot. The rest, with Mr. Phillips, their lieutenant, threw 
 themselves into the water and escaped, under cover of a 
 smart fire from the boats. On this occasion, a remarkable 
 instance of gallant behaviour, and of affection for his men, 
 was shown by that officer. For he had scarcely got into the 
 boat, when, seeing one of the marines, who was a bad 
 swimmer, struggling in the water, and in danger of being 
 taken by the enemy, he immediately jumped into the sea to 
 his assistance, though much wounded himself, and after re- 
 ceiving a blow on the head from a stone, which had nearly 
 sent him to the bottom, he caught the man by the hair and 
 brought him safe oif. Our people continued to keep up a 
 hot fire from the boats, which was seconded by the guns of 
 the Resolution ; and when the natives were forced to retire, 
 a boat, manned by five of our young midshipmen, pulled 
 towards the shore, where they saw the dead bodies lying on 
 the ground, but were unable to bring them off. The atten- 
 tion of both crews was now directed to our party at the 
 moral, where the masts and sails were stored with a guard 
 of only six marines. Being less than a mile from the village 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 455 
 
 of KowroWa, we could see distinctly an immeftse crowd 
 collected on the spot where Captain Cook had just before 
 landed. We heard the firing of the musketry, and could 
 perceive some extraordinary bustle and agitation in the 
 multitude. We afterwards saw the natives flying, the boats 
 retire from the shore, and passing and repassing in great 
 stillness between the ships. I must confess that my heart 
 soon misgave me. Where a life so dear and valuable was con- 
 cerned, it was impossible not to be alarmed by appearances 
 both new and threatening ; but besides this, I knew that a 
 long and uninterrupted course of success in his transactions 
 with the natives of these seas had given the captain a degree 
 of confidence that I was always fearful might, at some un- 
 lucky moment, put him too much off his guard ; and I now 
 saw all the dangers to which that confidence might lead, 
 without receiving much consolation from a consideration of 
 the experience that had given rise to it. 
 
 My first care, on hearing the muskets fired, was to assure 
 the people who assembled in considerable numbers round 
 the wall of our tabooed field, and seemed equally at a loss 
 with ourselves how to account for what they had seen and 
 heard, that they should not be molested, and that, at all 
 events, I was desirous of continuing on peaceable terms 
 with them. We remained in this attitude till the boats had 
 returned on board, when Captain Clerke observing through 
 his telescope that we were surrounded by the natives, 
 and apprehending they meant to attack us, ordered two 
 4-pounders to be fired at them. Fortunately these guns, 
 though well aimed, did no mischief, and yet gave the natives 
 a convincing proof of their powers. One of the balls broke 
 a cocoa-nut tree in the middle, under which a party were 
 sitting, and the other shivered a rock that stood in an exact 
 line with them. As I had just before given them the 
 strongest assurances for their safety, I was exceedingly 
 mortified at this act of hostility, and to prevent a repetition 
 of it, immediately dispatched a boat to acquaint Captain 
 Clerke that, at present, I was on the most friendly terms with 
 the natives, and that, if occasion should hereafter arise for 
 altering my conduct towards them, I would hoist a jack as a 
 signal for him to afford us all the assistance in his power. 
 
456 COOICS VO YA GES, 
 
 We expected the return of the boat with the utmost impa- 
 tience, and, after remaining a quarter of an hour under the 
 most torturing anxiety and suspense, our fears were at length 
 confirmed by the arrival of Mr. Bligh, with orders to strike the 
 tents as quickly as possible, and to send the sails that were 
 repairing on board. Just at the same moment our friend 
 Kaireekeea, having also received intelligence of the death of 
 Captain Cook from a native who had arrived from the other 
 side of the bay, came to me with great sorrow and dejection 
 in his countenance, to inquire if it was true. Our situation 
 was, at this time, extremely critical, as not only our lives, but 
 the success of the expedition, and the return of at least one 
 of the ships, was involved in the same common danger. We 
 had the mast of the Resolutio7t, and the greater part of our 
 sails on shore, under the protection of only six marines ; their 
 loss would have been irreparable, and though the natives 
 had not as yet shown the smallest disposition to molest us, yet 
 it was impossible to answer for the alteration which the news 
 of the transaction at Kowrowa might produce. I therefore 
 thought it prudent to dissemble my belief of the death ot 
 Captain Cook, and to desire Kaireekeea to discourage the 
 report, lest either the fear of our resentment, or the success- 
 ful example of their countrymen, might lead them to seize the 
 favourable opportunity, which at this time offered itself, of 
 giving us a second blow. At the same time I advised him 
 to bring old Kaoo and the rest of the priests into a large 
 house that was close to the moral, partly out of regard to 
 their safety, in case it should have been found necessary to 
 proceed to extremities, and partly to have him near us, in 
 order to make use of his authority with the people, if it would 
 be instrumental in preserving peace. 
 
 Having placed the marines on the top of the moral, which 
 formed a strong and advantageous post, and left the com- 
 mand with Mr. Bligh, giving him the most positive direc- 
 tions to act entirely on the defensive, I went on board the 
 Discovery, in order to represent to Capt. Clerke the dan- 
 gerous situation of our affairs. As soon as I quitted the 
 spot, the natives began to annoy our people with stones, and 
 I had scarcely reached the ship, before I heard the firing of 
 the marines. I therefore returned instantly on shore, where 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 457 
 
 I found things every moment growing more alarming. The 
 natives were arming and putting on their mats, and their 
 numbers increased very fast. I could also perceive several 
 large bodies marching towards us, along the cliff which 
 separates the village of Kakooa from the north side of the 
 bay where the village of Kowrowa is situated. They began 
 at first to attack us with stones from behind the walls of 
 their enclosures, and finding no resistance on our part, they 
 soon grew more daring. A few resolute fellows having crept 
 along the beach, under cover of the rocks, suddenly made 
 their appearance at the front of the morai, with the design, 
 as it seemed, of storming it on the side next the sea, which 
 was its only accessible part, and were not dislodged till after 
 they had stood a considerable number of shots, and seen 
 one of their party fall. The bravery of one of these assail- 
 ants well deserves to be particularly mentioned. Having 
 returned to carry off his companion amidst the fire of our 
 whole party, a wound which he received made him quit the 
 body and retire ; but in a few minutes he again appeared, 
 and being again wounded he was obliged a second time to 
 retreat. At this moment I arrived at the morai, and saw 
 him return the third time, bleeding and faint, and being 
 informed of what had happened, I forbade the soldiers to 
 fire, and he was suffered to carry off his friend, which he was 
 just able to perform, and then fell down himself and expired. 
 About this time a strong reinforcement from both ships 
 was landed, when the natives retreated behind the walls, 
 which giving me access to our friendly priests, I sent one of 
 them to endeavour to bring their countrymen to some terms, 
 and to propose to them, that if they would desist from throw- 
 ing stones, I would not permit our men to fire. This truce 
 was agreed to, and we were suffered to launch the mast, and 
 carry off the sails and our astronomical apparatus unmolested. 
 As soon as we had quitted the morai they took possession of 
 it, and some of them threw a few stones, but without doing 
 us any mischief It was half-past eleven o'clock when I got 
 on board the Discovery, when I found no decisive plan had 
 been adopted for our future proceedings. The restitution of 
 the boat and the recovery of the body of Captain Cook were 
 the objects which, on all hands, we agreed to insist on ; and it 
 
453 COOICS VOYAGES, 
 
 was my opinion that some vigorous steps should be taken, 
 in case the demand for them was not immediately complied 
 with. 
 
 Though my feelings on the death of a beloved and 
 honoured friend may be suspected to have had some share 
 in this opinion, yet there were certainly other reasons, and 
 those of the most serious kind, that had considerable weight 
 with me. The confidence which their success in killing our 
 chief and forcing us to quit the shore must naturally have 
 inspired, and the advantage, however trifling, which they had 
 obtained over us the preceding day, would, I had no doubt, 
 encourage them to make some further dangerous attempts, 
 and the more especially as they had little reason, from v/hat 
 they had hitherto seen, to dread the effects of our firearms. 
 Indeed, contrary to the expectation of every one, this sort of 
 weapon had produced no signs of terror in them. On our 
 side, such was the condition of the ships and the state of 
 discipline amongst us, that had a vigorous attack been made 
 on us in the night, it would have been impossible to answer 
 for the consequences. In these apprehensions I was sup- 
 ported by the opinion of most of the officers on board ; and 
 nothing seemed to me so likely to encourage the natives to 
 make the attempt as the appearance of our being inclined 
 to an accommodation, which they could only attribute to 
 weakness or fear. In favour of more conciliatory measures, 
 it was justly urged that the mischief was done, and irre- 
 parable ; that the natives had a strong claim to our regard, 
 on account of their former friendship and kindness, and the 
 more especially as the late melancholy accident did not 
 appear to have arisen from any premeditated design ; that 
 on the part of Terreeoboo, his ignorance of the theft, his 
 readiness to accompany Captain Cook on board, and his 
 having actually sent his two sons into the boat, must free him 
 from the smallest degree of suspicion ; that the conduct of 
 his women and the erees might easily be accounted for from 
 the apprehensions occasioned by the armed force with which 
 Captain Cook came on shore, and the hostile preparations 
 in the bay, appearances so different from the terms of friend- 
 ship and confidence in which both parties had hitherto lived, 
 that the arming of the natives was evidently with a design to 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 459 
 
 resist the attempt which they had some reason to imagine 
 would be made to carry off their king by force, and was 
 naturally to be expected from a people full of affection and 
 attachment to their chiefs. 
 
 To these motives of humanity others of a prudential nature 
 were added ; that we were in want of water and other refresh- 
 ments ; that our fore-mast would require six or eight days' work 
 before it could be stepped ; that the spring was advancing 
 apace, and that the speedy prosecution of our next northern 
 expedition ought now to be our sole object ; that, therefore, to 
 engage in a vindictive contest with the inhabitants might not 
 only lay us under the imputation of unnecessary cruelty, but 
 would occasion an unavoidable delay in the equipment of the 
 ships. In this latter opinion Captain Gierke concurred ; and 
 though I was convinced that an early display of vigorous re- 
 sentment would more effectually have answered every object, 
 both of prudence and humanity, I was not sorry that the 
 measures I had recommended were rejected ; for though the 
 contemptuous behaviour of the natives, and their subsequent 
 opposition to our necessary operations on shore — arising, I 
 have no doubt, from a misconstruction of our lenity — com- 
 pelled us at last to have recourse to violence in our own 
 defence, yet I am not so sure that the circumstances of the 
 case would, in the opinion of the world, have justified the use 
 of force on our part in the first instance. 
 
 During the time we were thus engaged in concerting some 
 plan for our future conduct, a prodigious concourse of natives 
 still kept possession of the shore ; and some of them came 
 off in canoes, and had the boldness to approach within pistol- 
 shot of the ships, and to insult us by various marks of con- 
 tempt and defiance. It was with great difficulty we could 
 restrain the sailors from the use of their arms on these 
 occasions ; but as pacific measures had been resolved on, 
 the canoes were suffered to return unmolested. 
 
 In pursuance of this plan, it was determined that I should 
 proceed towards the shore, with the boats of both ships, well 
 manned and armed, with a view to bring the natives to a 
 parley, and, if possible, to obtain a conference with some of 
 the chiefs. If this attempt succeeded I was to demand the 
 dead bodies, and particularly that of Captain Cook ; to 
 
46o COOICS VOYAGES. 
 
 threaten them with our vengeance in case of a refusal, but 
 by no means to fire unless attacked, and not to land on 
 any account whatever. These orders were delivered to me 
 before the whole party, and in the most positive manner. 
 
 I left the ships about four o'clock in the afternoon, and as 
 we approached the shore I perceived every indication of a 
 hostile reception. The whole crowd of natives was in motion ; 
 the women and children retiring, the men putting on their 
 war -mats, and arming themselves with long spears and 
 daggers. We also observed that since the morning they 
 had thrown up stone breastworks along the beach, where 
 Captain Cook had landed, probably in expectation of an 
 attack at that place ; and as soon as we were within reach 
 they began to throw stones at us with slings, but without 
 doing any mischief. Concluding, therefore, that all attempts 
 to bring them to a parley would be in vain unless I first 
 gave them some ground for mutual confidence, I ordered 
 the armed boats to stop, and went on in the small boat 
 alone, with a white flag in my hand, which, by a general 
 cry of joy from the natives, I had the satisfaction to find 
 was instantly understood. The women immediately re- 
 turned from the side of the hill, whither they had retired ; 
 the men threw off their mats, and all sat down together 
 by the water-side, extending their arms, and inviting me to 
 come on shore. Though this behaviour was very expressive 
 of a friendly disposition, yet I could not help entertaining 
 some suspicion of its sincerity. But when I saw Koah, with a 
 boldness and assurance altogether unaccountable, swimming 
 off towards the boats with a white flag in his hand, I thought 
 it necessary to return this mark of confidence, and therefore 
 received him into the boat, though armed, a circumstance 
 which did not tend to lessen my suspicions. I must confess 
 I had long harboured an unfavourable opinion of this man. 
 The priests had always told us that he was of a malicious 
 disposition, and no friend of ours, and the repeated de- 
 tections of his fraud and treachery had convinced us of the 
 truth of their representations. Added to all this the shocking 
 transaction of the morning, in which he was seen acting a 
 principal part, made me feel the utmost horror at finding 
 myself so near him ; and as he came up to me with feigned 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 461 
 
 tears, and embraced me, I was so distrustful of his inten- 
 tions that I could not help taking hold of the point of the 
 pahooah which he held in his hand, and turning it from me. 
 I told him that I had come to demand the body of Captain 
 Cook, and to declare war against them unless it was instantly 
 restored. He assured me this should be done as soon as 
 possible, and that he would go himself for that purpose ; 
 and after begging of me a piece of iron, with much assur- 
 ance, as if nothing extraordinary had happened, he leaped 
 into the sea and swam ashore, calling out to his countrymen 
 that we were all friends again. We waited near an hour, 
 with great anxiety, for his return, during which time the rest 
 of the boats had approached so near the shore as to enter 
 into conversation with a party of the natives at some dis- 
 tance from us, by whom they were plainly given to under- 
 stand that the body had been cut to pieces and carried up 
 the country ; but of this circumstance I was not informed 
 till our return to the ships. 
 
 I began now to express some impatience at Koah's delay, 
 upon which the chiefs pressed me to come on shore, assuring 
 me that if I would go myself to Terreeoboo the body would 
 certainly be restored to me. When they found they could 
 not prevail on me to land they attempted, under a pretence 
 of wishing to converse with more ease, to decoy our boat 
 among the rocks, where they would have had it in their 
 power to cut us off from the rest. It was no difficult matter 
 to see through these artifices, and I was therefore strongly 
 inclined to break off all further communication with them, 
 when a chief came to us, who was the particular friend of 
 Captain Clerke and of the officers of the Discovery, on 
 board which ship he had sailed when we last left the bay, 
 intending to take his passage to Mowee. He told us that 
 he came from Terreeoboo to acquaint us that the body was 
 carried up the country, but that it should be brought to us 
 the next morning. There appeared a great deal of sincerity 
 in his manner, and being asked if he told a falsehood he 
 hooked his two forefingers together, which is understood 
 amongst these islanders as the sign of truth, in the use of 
 which they are very scrupulous. 
 
 As I was now at a loss in what manner to proceed, I sent 
 
462 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 Mr. Vancouver to acquaint Captain Gierke with all that had 
 passed ; that my opinion was that they did not mean to keep 
 their word with us, and were so far from being sorry at what 
 had happened, that, on the contrary, they were full of spirits 
 and confidence on account of their late success, and sought 
 only to gain time till they could contrive some scheme for 
 getting us into their power. Mr. Vancouver came back with 
 orders for me to return on board, having first given the 
 natives to understand, that if the body was not brought the 
 next morning the town should be destroyed. When they 
 saw that we were going off, they endeavoured to provoke us 
 by the most insulting and contemptuous gestures. Some of 
 our people said they could distinguish several of the natives 
 parading about in the clothes of our unfortunate comrades, 
 and among them a chief brandishing Captain Cook's hanger, 
 and a woman holding the scabbard ; indeed, there can be 
 no doubt but that our behaviour had given them a mean 
 opinion of our courage, for they could have but little notion 
 of the motives of humanity that directed it. 
 
 In consequence of the report I made to Captain Clerke, 
 of what I conceived to be the present temper and disposition 
 of the islanders, the most effectual measures were taken to 
 guard against any attack they might make in the night. The 
 boats were moored with top-chains, additional sentinels were 
 posted on both ships, and guard boats wer6 stationed to row 
 round them, in order to prevent the natives from cutting the 
 cables. During the night we observed a prodigious number 
 of lights on the hills, which made some of us imagine they 
 were removing their effects back into the country, in conse- 
 quence of our threats, though I rather believe these fires to 
 have been lit for sacrificial purposes on account of the war 
 in which they imagined themselves about to engage, and 
 most probably the bodies of our slain countrymen were at 
 that time burning. We afterwards saw fires of the same 
 kind as we passed the island of Morotoi, and which w^e were 
 told by some natives, then on board, were made on account 
 of the war they had declared against a neighbouring island ; 
 and this agrees with what we learned amongst the Friendly 
 and Society Isles, that, previous to any expedition against an 
 enemy the chiefs always endeavoured to animate and inflame 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 463 
 
 the courage of the people by feasts and rejoicings in the 
 night. 
 
 We remained the whole night undisturbed, except by the 
 bowlings and lamentations which were heard on shore ; 
 and early the next morning Koah came alongside the 
 Resolution with a present of cloth and a small pig, which he 
 desired leave to present to me. I have mentioned before 
 that I was supposed by the natives to be the son of Captain 
 Cook ; and as he in nis lifetime had always suffered them to 
 believe it, I was probably considered as the chief after his 
 death. As soon as I came on deck, I questioned him about 
 the body ; and on his returning me nothing but evasive 
 answers, I refused to accept his presents, and was going to 
 dismiss him with some expressions of anger and resentment, 
 had not Captain Gierke, judging it best at all events to keep 
 up the appearance of friendship, thought it more proper that 
 he should be treated with the usual respect. This treacherous 
 fellow came frequently to us during the course of the fore- 
 noon with some trifling present or other ; and as I always 
 observed him eyeing every part of the ship with great 
 attention, I took care he should see we were well prepared 
 for our defence. He was exceedingly urgent both with 
 Captain Clerke and myself to go on shore, laying all the 
 blame of the detention of the bodies on the other chiefs, and 
 assuring us that everything might be settled to our satisfaction 
 by a personal interview with Terreeoboo. However, his con- 
 duct was too suspicious to make it prudent to comply with this 
 request, and, indeed, a fact came afterwards to our knowledge 
 which proved the entire falsehood of his pretences ; for we 
 were told that immediately after the action in which Captain 
 Cook was killed, the old king had retired to a cave in the 
 steep part of the mountain that hangs over the bay, which was 
 accessible only by the help of ropes, and where he remained 
 for many days, having his victuals let down to him by cords. 
 
 When Koah returned from the ships, we could perceive 
 that his countrymen, who had been collected since break of 
 day in vast crowds on the shore, thronged about him with 
 great eagerness, as if to learn the intelligence he had ac- 
 quired, and what was to be done in consequence of it. It is 
 very probable that they expected we should attempt to put 
 
464 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 our threats in execution, and they seemed fully resolved to 
 stand their ground. During the whole morning we heard 
 conchs blowing in different parts of the coast ; large parties 
 were seen marching over the hills, and, in short, appearances 
 were so alarming, that we carried out a stream-anchor to 
 enable us to haul the ship abreast of the town, in case of an 
 attack, and stationed boats off the north point of the bay to 
 prevent a surprise from that quarter. The breach of their 
 engagement to restore the bodies of the slain, and the war- 
 like attitude which they at this time assumed, occasioned 
 fresh debates amongst us concerning the measures next to 
 be pursued. It was at last determined that nothing should 
 be suffered to interfere with the repair of the mast and the 
 preparations for our departure, but that we should neverthe- 
 less continue our negotiations for the recovery of the bodies. 
 The greater part of this day was spent in getting the fore- 
 mast in a proper situation on deck for the carpenters to work 
 upon it, and in making the necessary alterations in the com- 
 missions of the officers. The command of the expedition 
 having devolved on Captain Gierke, he removed on board 
 the Resolution^ appointed Lieut. Gore to be captain of the 
 Discovery, and promoted Mr. Harvey, a midshipman, who 
 had been with Captain Cook in his two last voyages, to the 
 vacant lieutenancy. During the whole day we met with no 
 interruption from the natives, and at night the launch was 
 again moored with a top-chain and guard-boats stationed 
 round both ships as before. 
 
 About eight o'clock, it being very dark, a canoe was heard 
 paddHng towards the ship, and as soon as it was seen both 
 the sentinels on deck fired on it. There were two persons in 
 the canoe, and they immediately roared out " Tinnee," which 
 was the way in which they pronounced my name, and said 
 they were friends, and had something for me belonging to 
 Captain Cook. When they came on board they threw them- 
 selves at our feet, and appeared exceedingly frightened. 
 Luckily, neither of them was hurt, notwithstanding the balls 
 of both pieces went through the canoe. One of them was 
 the person, whom I have before mentioned under the name 
 of the Taboo man, who constantly attended Captain Cook 
 with the circumstances of ceremony I have already de- 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 465 
 
 scribed ; and who, though a man of rank in the island, 
 could scarcely be hindered from performing for him the 
 lowest offices of a menial servant. After lamenting with 
 abundance of tears the loss of the orono, he told us that he 
 had brought us a part of his body. He then presented to us 
 a small bundle wrapped up in cloth, which he brought under 
 his arm, and it is impossible to describe the horror which 
 seized us on finding in it a piece of human flesh about nine 
 or ten pounds weight. This, he said, was all that remained 
 of the body ; that the rest was cut to pieces and burnt, but 
 that the head and all the bones, except what belonged to the 
 trunk, were in the possession of Terreeoboo and the other 
 erees ; that what we saw had been allotted to Kaoo, the 
 chief of the priests, to be made use of in some religious 
 ceremony, and that he had sent it as a proof of his innocence 
 and attachment to us. 
 
 We learned from these men that seventeen of their country- 
 men were killed in the first action at Kowrowa, of whom five 
 were chiefs ; and that Kaneena and his brother, our very 
 particular friends, were unfortunately of that number. Eight, 
 they said, were killed at the observatory, three of whom 
 were also of the first rank. About eleven o'clock our two 
 friends left us, and took the precaution to desire that our 
 guard-boat might attend them till they had passed the Dis- 
 covery^ lest they should again be fired upon, which might 
 alarm their countrymen on shore, and expose them to the 
 danger of being discovered. This request was complied with, 
 and we were glad to find that they got safe to land. 
 
 About noon on the following day, finding us persist in 
 our inactivity, great bodies of the natives, after blowing their 
 conches, and using every mode of defiance, marched off over 
 the hills and never appeared afterwards. Those, however, 
 who remained, were not the less daring and insolent ; one 
 man had the audacity to come within musket-shot ahead of 
 the ship, and after slinging several stones at us, he waved 
 Captain Cook's hat over his head, whilst his countrymen on 
 shore were exulting and encouraging his boldness. Our 
 people were all in a flame at this insult, and coming in a 
 body on the quarter-deck, begged they might no longer be 
 obliged to put up with these repeated persecutions, and 
 
 2 G 
 
466 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 requested me to obtain permission for them, from Captaiil 
 Gierke, to avail themselves of the first fair occasion of 
 avenging the death of their commander. On acquainting 
 him with what was passing, he gave orders for some of the 
 •great guns to be fired at the natives on shore, and pro- 
 mised the crew that if they should meet with any molestation 
 at the watering-place next day, they should then be left at 
 liberty to chastise them. 
 
 It is somewhat remarkable that before we could bring our 
 guns to bear, the islanders had suspected our intentions, 
 from the stir they saw in the ship, and had retired behind 
 their houses and walls ; but notwithstanding that we were 
 obliged to fire in some measure at random, our shot pro- 
 duced all the effect that could have been desired, for soon 
 after we saw Koah paddling towards us with extreme haste, 
 and on his arrival we learned that some people had been 
 killed, and amongst the rest Maiha-Maiha, a principal 
 chief, and a near relation of the king. Soon after the arrival 
 of Koah, two boys swam off from the moral towards the 
 ships, each having a long spear in his hand, and after they 
 had approached pretty near they began to chant a song in 
 a very solemn manner, the subject of which, from their often 
 mentioning the word " orono," and pointing to the village 
 where Captain Cook was killed, we concluded to be the late 
 calamitous disaster. Having sung in a plaintive strain for 
 about twelve or fifteen minutes, during the whole of which 
 time they remained in the water, they went on board the 
 Discovery and delivered their spears, and after making a 
 short stay returned on shore. Who sent them, or what was 
 the object of this ceremony, we were never able to learn. 
 
 At night the usual precautions were taken for the security 
 of the ships ; and, as soon as it was dark, our two friends 
 who had visited us the night before came off again. They 
 assured us that though the effect of our great guns that 
 afternoon had terrified the chiefs exceedingly, they had by 
 no means laid aside their hostile intentions, and advised us 
 to be on our guard. The next morning the boats of both 
 ships were sent ashore for water, and the Discovery was 
 warped close to the beach in order to cover that service. 
 
 Throughout these islands, the ground adjacent to the villages 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 467 
 
 is enclosed with stone walls about three feet high. These 
 we at first imagined were intended for the division of pro- 
 perty, but we now discovered that they served, and probably 
 were principally designed, for a defence against invasion. 
 They consist of loose stones, and the inhabitants are very 
 dexterous in shifting them with great quickness to such 
 points as the direction of the attack may require. In the 
 sides of the mountain, which hangs over the bay, they have 
 also little holes or caves of considerable depth, the entrance 
 of which is secured by a fence of the same kind. From 
 behind these defences the natives kept perpetually harassing 
 our waterers with stones, nor could the small force we had 
 on shore, with the advantage of muskets, compel them to 
 retreat. In this exposed situation our people were so taken 
 up in attending to their own safety, that they employed the 
 whole forenoon in filling only one ton of water. As it was 
 therefore impossible to perform this service till these assail- 
 ants were driven to a greater distance, the Discovery was 
 ordered to dislodge them with her great guns, which being 
 effected by a few discharges, the men landed without molesta- 
 tion. However, the natives soon after made their appearance 
 again in their usual mode of attack, and it was now found 
 absolutely necessary to burn down some straggling houses 
 near the well, behind which they had taken shelter. In 
 executing these orders I am sorry to admit that our people 
 were hurried into acts of unnecessary cruelty and devas- 
 tation. Something ought certainly to be allowed to their 
 resentment of the repeated insults and contemptuous beha- 
 viour of the islanders, and to the natural desire of revenging 
 the loss of their commander ; but at the same time their 
 conduct served strongly to convince me that the utmost 
 precaution is necessary in trusting, though but for a moment, 
 the discretionary use of arms in the hands of private seamen 
 or soldiers on such occasions. 
 
 I have already mentioned that orders had been given to 
 burn only a few straggling huts which afforded shelter to the 
 natives ; we were therefore a good deal surprised to see the 
 whole village on fire, and before a boat, sent to stop the 
 progress of the mischief, could reach the shore, the houses 
 of our old and constant friends, the priests, were all in 
 
468 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 flames. I cannot enough lament the ilhiess that confined 
 me on board this day : the priests had always been under 
 my protection, and, unluckily, the officers who were then on 
 duty, having been seldom on shore at the morai, were not 
 much acquainted with the circumstances of the place. Had 
 I been present myself I might probably have been the means 
 of saving their little society from destruction. Several of the 
 natives were shot in making their escape from the flames, 
 and our people cut off the heads of two of them, and brought 
 them on board. The fate of one poor islander was much 
 lamented by us all. As he was coming to the well for water 
 he was shot at by one of the marines, and the ball struck his 
 calabash, which he immediately threw from him and fled. 
 He was pursued into one of the caves I have before 
 described, and no lion could have defended his den with 
 greater courage and fierceness, till at last, after having kept 
 two of our people at bay for a considerable time, he expired 
 covered with wounds. It was this accident that first made 
 us acquainted with the use of these caverns. At this time 
 an elderly man was taken prisoner, bound, and sent on board 
 in the same boat with the heads of his two countrymen. I 
 never saw horror so strongly depicted as in the face of this 
 man, nor so violent a transition to extravagant joy as when 
 he was untied and told he might go away in safety. He 
 showed us he did not want gratitude, as he frequently after- 
 wards returned with presents of provisions, and also did us 
 other services. 
 
 Soon after the village was destroyed we saw a man coming 
 down the hill, attended by fifteen or twenty boys, holding 
 pieces of white cloth, green boughs, and plantains in their 
 hands. I know not how it happened that this peaceful 
 embassy, as soon as they were within reach, received the 
 fire of a party of our men, though it did not stop them ; 
 they continued their progress, and the officer on duty came 
 up in time to prevent a second discharge. As they ap- 
 proached nearer it was found to be our much-esteemed friend 
 Kairekeea, who had fled on our first setting fire to the village, 
 and had now returned, and desired to be sent on board the 
 Resolution. When he arrived we found him exceedingly 
 grave and thoughtful ; we endeavoured to make him under- 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 469 
 
 stand the necessity we were under of setting fire to the 
 village, by which his house and those of his brethren were 
 unintentionally consumed. He expostulated a little with us 
 on our want of friendship and on our ingratitude ; and, in- 
 deed, it was not till now that we learned the whole extent of 
 the injury we had done them. He told us, that relying on 
 the promises I had made them and on the assurances they 
 had afterwards received from the men who had brought us 
 the remains of Captain Cook, they had not removed their 
 effects back into the country with the rest of the inhabitants, 
 but had put everything that was valuable of their own, as 
 well as what they had collected from us, into a house close 
 to the moral, where they had the mortification of seeing it all 
 set on fire by ourselves. On coming on board he had seen 
 the heads of his countrymen lying on the deck, at Which he 
 was exceedingly shocked, and desired, with great earnestness, 
 that they might be thrown overboard ; this request Captain 
 Clerke instantly ordered to be complied with. 
 
 In the evening the watering party returned on board, 
 having met with no further interruption. We passed a 
 gloomy night, the cries and lamentations we heard on shore 
 being far more dreadful than ever ; our only consolation was 
 the hope that we should have no occasion, in future, for a 
 repetition of such severities. It seemed very extraordinary 
 that amidst all these disturbances the women of the island 
 who were on board never offered to leave us, nor discovered 
 the" smallest apprehension, either for themselves or their 
 friends ashore. So entirely unconcerned did they appear 
 that some of them, who were on deck when the town was 
 in flames, seemed to admire the sight, and frequently cried 
 out that it was ^' maitai," or very fine. The next morning 
 Koah came off as usual to the ships. As there existed no 
 longer any necessity for keeping terms with him, I was 
 allowed to have my own way. When he approached the 
 ship, singing a song and offering me a hog and some plan- 
 tains, I ordered him to keep off, cautioning him never to 
 appear again without Captain Cook's bones, lest his life 
 should pay the forfeit of his continued breach of promise. 
 He did not appear much mortified with this reception, but 
 went immediately on shore, and joined a party of his 
 
470 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 countrymen who were pelting the waterers with stones. 
 The body of the young man killed the day before was found 
 this morning, lying at the entrance of the cave, and some 
 of our people went and threw a mat over it, soon after which 
 they saw some men carrying him off on their shoulders, 
 singing a mournful song as they marched. 
 
 The natives being at last convinced that it was not the 
 want of ability to punish them, which had hitherto made us 
 tolerate their provocations, desisted from giving us any 
 further molestation; and in the evening, a chief called 
 Eappo, who had seldom visited us, but whom we knew to be 
 a man of the very first consequence, came with presents from 
 Terreeoboo to sue for peace. These presents were received, 
 and he was dismissed with the same answer which had be- 
 fore been given, that until the remains of Captain Cook 
 should be restored, no peace would be granted. We learned 
 from this person that the flesh of all the bodies of our 
 people, together with the bones of the trunks, had been 
 burnt ; that the limb bones of the marines had been divided 
 amongst the inferior chiefs ; and that those of Captain Cook 
 had been disposed of in the following manner : the head to 
 a great chief called Kahoo-opeon, the hair to Maiha-maiha ; 
 and the legs, thighs, and arms to Terreeoboo. After it was 
 dark many of the inhabitants came off with roots and other 
 vegetables ; and we also received two large presents of the 
 same articles from Kaireekeea. 
 
 The 19th was chiefly taken up in sending and receiving 
 the messages which passed between Captain Clerke and 
 Terreeoboo. Eappo was very pressing that one of oui 
 officers should go on shore, and in the meantime offered to 
 remain as an hostage on board. This request, however, it 
 was not thought proper to comply with, and he left us with 
 a promise of bringing the bones the next day. At the beach 
 the waterers did not meet with the least opposition from the 
 natives, who, notwithstanding our cautious behaviour, came 
 amongst us again without the smallest appearance of diffi- 
 dence or apprehension. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 20th we had the satisfaction 
 of getting the fore-mast stepped. It was an operation at- 
 tended with great difficulty and some danger, our ropes being 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 471 
 
 so exceedingly rotten, that the purchase gave way several 
 times. Between ten and eleven o'clock we saw a great 
 number of people descending the hill, which is over the 
 beach, in a kind of procession, each man carrying a sugar- 
 cane or two on his shoulders, and bread-fruit, taro, and 
 plantains in his hand. They were preceded by two 
 drummers, who, when they came to the water-side, sat down 
 by a white flag, and began to beat their drums, while those 
 who had followed them advanced one by one, and having 
 deposited the presents they had brought, retired in the same 
 order. Soon after, Eappo came in sight, in his long 
 feathered cloak, bearing something with great solemnity in 
 his hands, and having seated himself on a rock, he made 
 signs for a boat to be sent to him. Captain Gierke, con- 
 jecturing that he had brought the bones of Captain Cook, 
 which proved to be the fact, went himself in the pinnace to 
 receive them, and ordered me to attend him in the cutter. 
 When we arrived at the beach, Eappo came into the pinnace, 
 and delivered to the captain the bones wrapped up in a large 
 quantity of fine new cloth, and covered with a spotted cloak 
 of black and white feathers. He afterwards attended us to 
 the Resolution^ but could not be prevailed upon to go on 
 board, probably not choosing, from a sense of decency, to be 
 present at the opening of the bundle. We found in it both 
 the hands of Captain Cook entire, which were well known 
 from a remarkable scar on one of them, that divided the 
 thumb from the forefinger the whole length of the metacarpal 
 bone ; the skull, but with the scalp separated from it, and 
 the bones that form the face wanting ; the scalp, with the 
 hair upon it cut short, and the ears adhering to it, the bones 
 of both arms, with the skin of the fore-arms hanging to them ; 
 the thigh and leg bones joined together, but without the feet. 
 The ligaments of the joints were entire, and the whole bore 
 evident marks of having been in the fire, except the hands, 
 which had the flesh left upon them, and were cut in several 
 places, and crammed with salt, apparently with an intention 
 of preserving them. The scalp had a cut in the back part 
 of it, but the skull was free from any fracture. The lower 
 jaw and feet, which were wanting, Eappo told us had been 
 seized b/ different chiefs, and that Terreeoboo was usirig 
 
472 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 every means to recover them. The next morning Eappo 
 and the king's son came on board, ^nd brought with 
 them the remaining bones of Captain Cook, the barrels 
 of his gun, his shoes, and some other trifles that be- 
 longed to him. Eappo took great pains to convince 
 us that Terreeoboo, Maiha-maiha, and himself, were most 
 heartily desirous of peace ; that they had given us the most 
 convincing proof of it in their power, and that they had been 
 prevented from giving it sooner by the other chiefs, many 
 of whom were still our enemies. He lamented with the 
 greatest sorrow the death of six chiefs we had killed, some of 
 whom, he said, were amongst our best friends. The cutter, 
 he told us, was taken away by Pareea's people, very probably 
 in revenge for the blow that had been given him, and that it 
 had been broken up the next day. The arms of the marines, 
 which we had also demanded, he assured us had been carried 
 off by the common people, and were irrecoverable, the bones 
 of the chief alone having been preserved, as belonging to 
 Terreeoboo and the erees. 
 
 Nothing now remained but to perform the last offices to 
 our great and unfortunate commander. Eappo was dis- 
 missed with orders to taboo all the bay ; and in the afternoon, 
 the bones having been put into a coffin, and the service read 
 over them, they were committed to the deep with the usual 
 miHtary honours. What our feelings were on this occasion 
 I leave the world to conceive ; those who were present know 
 that it is not in my power to express them. 
 
 During the forenoon of the 22nd not a canoe was seen 
 paddling in the bay, the taboo, which Eappo had laid on 
 it the day before at our request, not being yet taken off. 
 At length Eappo came off to us. We assured him that we 
 were now entirely satisfied, and that, as the prono was 
 buried, all remembrance of what had passed was buried 
 with him. We afterwards desired him to take off the taboo, 
 and to make it known that the people might bring their 
 provisions as usual. The ships were soon surrounded with 
 canoes, and many of the chiefs came on board, expressing 
 great sorrow at what had happened, and their satisfaction 
 at our reconciliation. Several of our friends, who did not 
 visit us^ sent presents of large hogs and other provisions. 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 473 
 
 Amongst the rest came the old treacherous Koah, but he 
 was refused admittance. As we had now everything ready 
 for sea, Captain Gierke, imagining that if the news of our 
 proceedings should reach the islands to leeward before us, 
 it might have a bad effect, gave orders to unmoor. About 
 eight in the evening we dismissed all the natives, and Eappo 
 and the friendly Kaireekeea took an affectionate leave of us. 
 We immediately weighed and stood out of the bay. The 
 natives were collected on the shore in great numbers, and as 
 we passed along received our last farewells with every mark 
 of affection and goodwill. 
 
 During the course of the following day, when near the 
 island of Mowee, we were visited by several of the natives, 
 who came off to sell provisions, and we soon found that they 
 had heard of our late unfortunate transactions at Owhyhee. 
 They were very curious to learn the particulars from a woman 
 who had concealed herself on board the Resolution, in order 
 to take her passage to Atooi, inquiring eagerly after Pareea 
 and some other chiefs, and appearing much shocked at the 
 death of Kaneena and his brother. We had, however, the 
 satisfaction to find that, in whatever light the woman might 
 have represented this business, it had no bad effect on their 
 behaviour, which was remarkably civil and submissive. 
 
 On the 28th we arrived at Atooi, and had no sooner 
 anchored in our old station than several canoes came along- 
 side of us, but we could observe that they did not welcome 
 us with the same cordiality in their manner and satisfaction 
 in their countenances as when we were here before. Our 
 principal object here was to water the ships with the utmost 
 expedition ; and I was sent on shore early in the afternoon, 
 with the pinnace and launch laden with casks. The gunner 
 of the Resolution accompanied me, to trade for provisions, 
 and we had a guard of five marines. We found a consider- 
 able number of people collected upon the beach, who received 
 us at first with great kindness, but as soon as we had got the 
 casks on shore, began to be exceedingly troublesome. Former 
 experience having taught us how difficult it was to repress 
 this disposition without having recourse to the authority of 
 their chiefs, I was very sorry to find that they were all at 
 another part of the island. Indeed we soon felt the want of 
 
474 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 their assistance, for it was with great difficulty I was able 
 to form a circle, according to our usual practice, for the 
 convenience and security of the trading party, and had no 
 sooner done it, and posted a guard to keep off the crowd, 
 than I saw a man laying hold of the bayonet of one of the 
 soldiers' muskets, and endeavouring, with all his force, to 
 wrench it out of his hand. On my coming up to them the 
 native let go his hold and retired, but returned in a moment 
 with a spear in one hand and a dagger in the other ; and 
 his countrymen had much ado to restrain him from trying 
 his prowess with the soldier. This fray was occasioned by 
 the latter having given the man a slight prick with his 
 bayonet in order to make him keep without the line. I now 
 perceived that our situation required great circumspection 
 and management, and accordingly gave the strictest orders 
 that no one should fire, nor have recourse to any other act 
 of violence, without positive commands. As soon as I had 
 given these directions I was called to the assistance of the 
 watering party, where I found the natives equally inclined 
 to mischief They had demanded from our people a large 
 hatchet for every cask of water, and this not being complied 
 with, they would not suffer the sailors to roll them down to 
 the boats. I had no sooner joined them than one of the 
 natives advanced up to me, with great insolence, and made 
 the same claim. I told him that, as a friend, I was very 
 willing to present him with a hatchet, but that I should 
 certainly carry off the water, without paying anything for it, 
 and I immediately ordered the pinnace men to proceed in 
 their business, and called three marines from the traders to 
 protect them. 
 
 Though this show of spirit succeeded so far as to make 
 the natives desist from any open attempt to interrupt us, 
 they still continued to behave in the most provoking manner. 
 Whilst some of them, under pretence of assisting the men in 
 rolling down the casks, turned them out of their course, and 
 gave them a wrong direction, others were stealing the hats 
 from off the sailors' heads, pulling them backward by their 
 clothes, or tripping up their heels; the whole crowd all this time 
 shouting and laughing, with a strange mixture of childish- 
 ness and malice. They afterwards found means to steal the 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 475 
 
 cooper's basket, and took away his bag by force ; but the 
 objects they were most eager to possess themselves of were 
 the muskets of the marines, who were every instant com- 
 plaining of their attempts to force them out of their hands. 
 Though they continued, for the most part, to pay great 
 deference and respect to me, yet they did not suffer me 
 to escape without contributing my share to their stock of 
 plunder. One of them came up to me with a familiar air, 
 and with great management diverted my attention, whilst 
 another, wrenching the hanger, which I held carelessly in 
 my hand, from me, ran off with it like lightning. 
 
 It was vain to think of repelling this insolence by force. 
 Guarding, therefore, against its effects in the best manner 
 we were able, we had nothing to do but to submit patiently 
 to it. My apprehensions were, however, a little alarmed by 
 the information I soon after received from the sergeant of 
 marines, who told me that, turning suddenly round, he saw 
 a man behind me holding a dagger in the position of 
 striking. In this he might possibly be mistaken, yet our 
 situation was certainly alarming and critical, and the 
 smallest error on our side might have been fatal to us. 
 In case of a real attack, our whole force, however advan- 
 tageously disposed, could have made but a poor resistance ; 
 on the other hand, I thought it some consequence to show 
 the natives that we were under no fear. 
 
 It is probable that their dread of the effects of our arms 
 was the principal cause of their backwardness in attacking 
 us ; and, indeed, the confidence we appeared to place in this 
 advantage, by opposing only five marines to their whole 
 force, must have raised in them a very high idea of our 
 superiority. 
 
 We had now got everything into the boats, and only Mr. 
 Anderson, the gunner, a seaman of the boat's crew, and 
 myself remained on shore. Soon stones began to fly about us, 
 and our people cried to us from the boats to make haste, as the 
 natives were following us into the water with clubs and spears. 
 I reached the side of the pinnace first ; Mr. Anderson was at 
 some distance behind, and not yet entirely out of danger. I 
 called out to the marines to fire one musket. In the hurry of 
 executing my orders they fired twO; and when I had got into 
 
476 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 the boat I saw the natives running away, and one man, with 
 a woman sitting by him, left behind on the beach. The 
 man made several attempts to rise without being able, and 
 it was with much regret I perceived him to be wounded in 
 the groin. The natives soon after returned, and surrounded 
 the wounded man, brandishing their spears and daggers at 
 us with an air of threatening and defiance ; but before we 
 reached the ship we saw some persons, whom we supposed 
 to be chiefs, now arrived, driving them away from the shore. 
 During our absence Captain Gierke had been under the 
 greatest anxiety for our safety, and these apprehensions were 
 considerably increased from his having entirely mistaken 
 the drift of a conversation he had held with some natives 
 who had been on board. The frequent mention of the 
 name of Captain Cook, with other strong and circumstantial 
 descriptions of death and destruction, made him conclude 
 that the knowledge of the unfortunate events at Owhyhee had 
 reached them, and that these were what they alluded to ; 
 whereas all that they had in view was to make known to 
 him the wars that had arisen in consequence of the goats 
 that Captain Cook had left at Oneeheow, and the slaughter 
 of the poor goats themselves during the struggle for the pos- 
 session of them. Captain Clerke, applying this earnestness 
 of conversation and these terrible representations to our 
 calamitous transaction at Owhyhee and to an indication of 
 revenge, kept his telescope fixed upon us, and the moment 
 he saw the smoke of the muskets, ordered the boats to be 
 manned and armed, and to put off to our assistance. 
 
 The next morning I was again ordered on shore with the 
 watering party. The risk we had run the preceding day 
 determined Captain Clerke to send a considerable force 
 from both the ships for our guard, amounting in all to forty 
 men under arms. This precaution, however, was now un- 
 necessary, for we found the beach left entirely to ourselves, 
 and the ground between the landing-place and the lake 
 tabooed with small white flags. We concluded from this 
 appearance that some of the chiefs had certainly visited this 
 quarter, and that, not being able to stay, they had kindly 
 and considerately taken this step for our greater security 
 and convenience. We saw several men, armed with long 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 477 
 
 spears and daggers, on the other side of the river on our 
 right, but they did not offer to give us the least molestation. 
 Their women came over and sat dov^^n on the bars close by 
 us, and at noon we prevailed on some of the men to bring 
 hogs and roots for our people and to dress them for us. The 
 next day we completed our watering, without meeting with 
 any material difficulty. On our return to the ships we found 
 that several chiefs had been on board and had made excuses 
 for the behaviour of their countrymen, attributing their 
 riotous conduct to the quarrels which subsisted at that time 
 amongst the principal people of the island, and which had 
 occasioned a general want of order and subordination 
 amongst them. 
 
 The 4th and the two following days were'employed on shore 
 in completing the Discovery's water, and the carpenters were 
 busy on board in caulking the ships and in making other 
 preparations for our next cruise. The natives desisted from 
 disturbing us any further, and we procured from them a 
 plentiful supply of pork and vegetables. 
 
 On the 15th of March we weighed anchor, and passing to 
 the north of Tahoora, steered first south-west, and on the 
 following day west, it being Captain Gierke's intention to 
 keep as near as possible in the same parallel of latitude till 
 we should make the longitude of Awatska Bay, and after- 
 wards to steer due north for the harbour of St. Peter 
 and St. Paul in that bay, which was also appointed 
 for our rendezvous in case of separation. This track was 
 chosen on account of its being, as far as we knew, unex- 
 plored ; and we were not without hopes of falling in with 
 some new island on our passage. On the 29th, in conse- 
 quence of the light winds we had met for some time past, 
 with the present unsettled state of the weather, and the 
 little appearance of any change for the better. Captain 
 Clerke altered his plan of keeping within the tropical 
 latitudes, and accordingly at six this evening we began to 
 steer to the north-west. At noon on the 6th of April we lost 
 the trade-wind, and were suddenly taken aback with the wind 
 from the north-north-west. At this time our latitude was 
 29° 50' and our longitude 170^^ i'. As the old running ropes 
 were constantly breaking in the late gales, we rove what 
 
478 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 new ones we had left, and made such other preparations 
 as were necessary for the very different climate which we 
 were now shortly to encounter. The airing of sales and 
 other stores, which, from the leakiness of the decks and 
 sides of the ships, were perpetually wet, had now become 
 a frequent, as well as a laborious and troublesome part 
 of our duty. Besides these cares, which had regard only 
 to the ships themselves, there were others which had for 
 their object the preservation of the health of the crews, that 
 furnished a constant occupation to a great number of our 
 hands. The standing orders established by Captain Cook, 
 of airing the bedding, placing fires between decks, washing 
 them with vinegar, and smoking them with gunpowder, were 
 observed without any intermission. In the afternoon we 
 observed some of the sheathing floating by the ship, and on 
 examination found that twelve or fourteen feet had been 
 washed off from under the larboard bow, where we supposed 
 the leak to have been, which ever since our leaving the 
 Sandwich Islands had kept the people almost constantly at 
 the pumps, making twelve inches water an hour. 
 
 On the 1 2th the wind came gradually round to the east, 
 and increased to so strong a gale as obliged us to strike our 
 topgallant yards, and brought us under the lower sails, and 
 the main-topsail close reefed. Unfortunately we were upon 
 that tack which was the most advantageous for our leak. 
 But as we had always been able to keep it under with the 
 hand pumps, it gave us no great uneasiness, till the 13th, 
 about six in the afternoon, when we were greatly alarmed by 
 a sudden inundation, that deluged the whole space between 
 decks. The water, which had lodged in the coal-hole, not 
 finding a sufficient vent into the well, had forced up the 
 platform over it, and in a moment set everything afloat. Our 
 situation was indeed exceedingly distressing, and we were 
 obliged to keep one half of the people constantly pumping 
 and baling, till the noon of the 15th. Our men bore with 
 great cheerfulness the excessive fatigue, which was much in- 
 creased by their having no dry sleeping place. The weather 
 now becoming more moderate, and the swell less heavy, we 
 were enabled to clear away the casks from the fore-hold, 
 and to open a sufficient passage for the water to the pumps. 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 479 
 
 On the 19th the thermometer in the daytime remained at 
 the freezing-point, and at four in the morning fell to 29°. The 
 sudden change from the hot, sultry weather we had at the 
 beginning of this month, to the extreme cold which we now 
 endured, was severely felt by us. In the gale of the i8th we 
 had split almost all the sails we had bent, which being our 
 second-best sails, we were now reduced to make use of our 
 last and best set. To add to Captain Gierke's difficulties, the 
 sea was in general so rough, and the ships so leaky, that the 
 sail-maker had no place to repair the sails in except his 
 apartments, which in his declining state of health was a 
 serious inconvenience to him. 
 
 On the 23rd of April the land appeared in mountains 
 covered with snow, and a more dismal and dreary prospect 
 I never beheld. The coast appears straight and uniform, 
 having no inlets or bays ; the ground from the shore rises 
 in hills of a moderate elevation, behind which are ranges of 
 mountains whose summits were lost in the clouds. The 
 whole scene was entirely covered with snow, except the sides 
 of some of the cliffs, which rose too abruptly from the sea 
 for the snow to lie upon them. The ships appeared to be a 
 complete mass of ice ; the shrouds were so encrusted with it 
 as to measure in circumference more than double their usual 
 size, and, in short, the experience of the oldest seaman among 
 us had never met with anything like the continued showers 
 of sleet and the extreme cold which we now encountered. In- 
 deed, the severity of the weather, added to the great difficulty 
 of working the ships, and the labour of keeping the pumps 
 constantly going, rendered the service too hard for many of 
 the crew, some of whom were frost-bitten, and others laid up 
 with bad colds. The weather continued for some days too 
 unfavourable for us to venture into Awatska Bay, but at 
 length, on the 28th, we discovered, on a narrow point of 
 land, a few miserable log-houses and some conical huts, 
 raised on poles, amounting in all to about thirty, which we 
 found to be Petropaulowska. However, in this wretched 
 extremity of the earth, situated beyond everything that we 
 conceived to be most barbarous and inhospitable, and, as it 
 were, out of the very reach of civilisation, barricadoed with 
 ice and covered with summer snow, in a poor miserable port, 
 
48o COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 far inferior to the meanest of our fishing towns, we met with 
 most hospitable treatment. 
 
 We quitted the place on the 13th of June, after having all 
 our wants amply supplied by the Russian commander of 
 Bolcheretsk, a town about 135 miles distant, which is the 
 capital of the province. Before daylight on the 15th we were 
 surprised by a rumbling noise, resembling distant hollow 
 thunder; and when the day broke, we found the decks and sides 
 of the ships covered with a fine dust like emery, near an inch 
 thick. The air at the same time continued loaded and darkened 
 with this substance, and towards the volcano, situated to the 
 north of the harbour, it was so thick and black, that we could 
 not distinguish the body of the hill. About twelve o'clock, and 
 during the afternoon, the explosions became louder, and were 
 followed by showers of cinders, which were in general about 
 the size of peas, though many were picked up from the deck 
 larger than a hazel nut. Along with the cinders fell several 
 small stones, which had undergone no change from the action 
 of fire. In the evening we had dreadful thunder and light- 
 ning, which, with the darkness of the atmosphere, and the 
 sulphurous smell of the air, produced altogether a most 
 awful and terrifying effect. We were at this time about eight 
 leagues from the foot of the mountain. The aspect of the 
 country was now very different from what it had been on our 
 first arrival. The snow, excepting what remained on the 
 tops of some very high mountains, had disappeared ; and the 
 sides of the hills, which in many parts were well wooded, 
 were covered with a beautiful verdure. On the 5th of July, our 
 latitude by account being 65° 24', we stood over to the coast 
 of Asia till seven in the evening, at which time we were 
 within two or three leagues of the east cape of that conti- 
 nent. At ten at night, the weather becoming clear, we had 
 an opportunity of seeing at the same moment the remarkable 
 peaked hill, near Cape Prince of Wales, on the coast of 
 America, and the east cape of Asia, with the two connecting 
 islands of St. Diomede between thern. On the following 
 day we fell in with an extensive body of ice stretching away 
 to the westward. The sight gave great discouragement to our 
 hopes of advancing much further northward this year than we 
 had done the preceding. By the 9th we had sailed nearly forty 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 481 
 
 leagues along the edge of the ice without seeing any opening, 
 or a clear sea to the northward beyond it, and had therefore no 
 prospect of advancing further north for the present ; Captain 
 Gierke, therefore, resolved to bear away to the south-by-east, 
 the only quarter that was clear, and to wait till the season 
 was more advanced before he made any further efforts to 
 penetrate the ice. The intermediate time he proposed to 
 spend in examining the Bay of St. Laurence and the coast 
 to the southward of it, as a harbour so near, in case of future 
 damage from the ice, would be very desirable. We there- 
 fore stood to the southward till the night of the loth, when 
 nothing was to be seen but one compact field of ice stretching 
 as far as the eye could reach. As no space remained open, 
 we tacked and once more stood to the northward. On the 
 13th we again found ourselves close in with a solid field of 
 ice, to which we could see no limits from the masthead, 
 which at once dashed all our hopes of penetrating further. 
 Our latitude at this time was 69° 37', and our position nearly 
 in the mid channel between the two continents. As there 
 did not remain the smallest prospect of getting further north, 
 Captain Clerke resolved to make one more and final attempt 
 on the American coast for Baffin's Bay, since we had been 
 able to advance the furthest on this side last year. On the i6th 
 we found ourselves embayed, the ice having taken a sudden 
 turn to the south-east, and in one compact body surrounding 
 us on all sides except on the south quarter. We therefore 
 hauled our wind to the southward, being at this time in 
 latitude 70^ 8' North, and, as we supposed, about twenty-five 
 leagues from the coast of America. The gale increasing, 
 and the depth of water lessening, which we considered as a 
 proof of our near approach to the American coast, we tacked 
 and stood to the north. We were a second time so com- 
 pletely embayed that there was no opening left but to the 
 south, to which quarter we accordingly directed our course, 
 returning by the same way we had come in. We were never 
 able to penetrate further north than this, where our latitude 
 was 70° 33', and this was five leagues short of the point to 
 which we advanced last season. 
 
 At eight in the morning of the 21st, the wind freshening 
 and the fog clearing away, we saw the American coast to the 
 
 2 H 
 
482 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 south-east at the distance of eight or ten leagues, and hauled 
 in for it, but were stopped again by the ice, and obliged to bear 
 away to the westward along the edge of it. Thus, having found 
 a connected sohd field of ice, rendering fruitless every effort 
 we could make to approach nearer to the land, and, indeed, 
 apparently joining it, we took a last farewell of a north-east 
 passage to Old England. Captain Gierke now determined to 
 give up all further attempts on the coast of America, and to 
 make his last efforts in search of a passage on the coast of 
 the opposite continent. We accordingly continued during 
 the afternoon of the 2 1 st of July to steer to the west-north-west 
 through much loose ice. In the morning of the 23rd the 
 clear water, in which we continued to stand to and fro, did 
 not exceed a mile and a half, and was every instant lessening. 
 At length, after using our utmost endeavours to clear the 
 loose ice, we were driven to the necessity of forcing the 
 passage to the southward, which at half-past seven we accom- 
 plished, but not without subjecting the ship to some severe 
 shocks. The Discovery was less successful ; for at eleven, 
 when they had nigh got clear out, she became so entangled 
 by several large pieces that her way was stopped, and, imme- 
 diately dropping bodily to leeward, she fell broadside on 
 the edge of a considerable body of ice ; and having at the 
 same time an open sea to windward the surf caused her to 
 beat violently upon it. This mass at length either so far 
 broke, or moved, as to set her crew at liberty to make another 
 effort to escape ; but unfortunately before the ship gathered 
 way enough to be under command, she again fell to leeward 
 on another fragment ; and the swell making it unsafe to lie 
 to windward, and finding no chance of getting clear, they 
 pushed into a small opening, furled their sails, and made fast 
 with ice-hooks. In this dangerous situation we saw them at 
 noon, about three miles from us, bearing north-west, a fresh 
 gale from the south-east driving more ice to the north-west, 
 and increasing the body that lay between us. To add to the 
 gloomy apprehensions which began to force themselves on 
 us, at half-past four in the afternoon, the weather becoming 
 thick and hazy, we lost sight of the Discovery ; but that we 
 might be in a situation to afford her every assistance in our 
 power, we kept standing on close by the edge of the ice, and 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 4S3 
 
 firing a gun every half-hour. Our apprehensions for her 
 safety did not cease till nine, when we heard her guns in 
 answer to ours ; and soon after, being hailed by her, were 
 informed that upon the change of wind the ice began to 
 separate, and that, setting all their sails, they forced a passage 
 through it. As it was now necessary to come to some deter- 
 mination with respect to the course we were next to steer, 
 Captain Gierke sent a boat, with the carpenters, on board the 
 Discovery, to inquire into the particulars of the damage she 
 had sustained. They returned in the evening with the report 
 of Captain Gore, and of the carpenters of both ships, that 
 the damages they had received were of a kind that would 
 require three weeks to repair, and that it would be necessary 
 for that purpose to go into some port. Thus finding a further 
 advance to the northward, as well as a nearer approach to 
 either continent, obstructed by a sea blocked up with ice, we 
 judged it both injurious to the service, by endangering . the 
 safety of the ships, as well as fruitless with respect to the 
 design of our voyage, to make any further attempts towards 
 a passage. This, therefore, added to the representations of 
 Captain Gore, determined Captain Gierke not to lose more 
 time in what he concluded to be an unattainable object, but 
 to sail for Awatska Bay, to repair our damages there ; and 
 before the winter should set in, and render all other efforts 
 toward discovery impracticable, to explore the coast of Japan. 
 I will not endeavour to conceal the joy that brightened the 
 countenance of every individual as soon as Captain Gierke's 
 resolutions were made known. We were all heartily sick of 
 a navigation full of danger, and in which the utmost perse- 
 verance had not been repaid with the smallest probability of 
 success. We therefore turned our faces toward home, after 
 an absence of three years, with a delight and satisfaction 
 which, notwithstanding the tedious voyage we had still to 
 make, and the immense distance we had to run, were as 
 freely entertained, and perhaps as fully enjoyed, as if we had 
 been already in sight of the Land's End. 
 
 On the evening of the 30th, when the fog cleared away, we 
 saw Gape Prince of Wales, bearing south by east, distant 
 about six leagues. We now altered our course to the west, 
 and at eight made the East Gape, which at midnight was four 
 
4.84 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 leagues distant. As Captain Gierke was now confined to his 
 bed, he desired the officers would receive their orders from me, 
 and directed that the course should be steered to Awatska Bay. 
 On the 22nd of August, 1779, at nine o'clock in the 
 morning, departed this life Captain Charles Clerke, in the 
 thirty-eighth year of his age. He died of a consumption, 
 which had evidently commenced before he left England, and 
 of which he had lingered during the whole voyage. His very 
 gradual decay had long made him a melancholy object to 
 his friends ; yet the equanimity with which he bore it, the 
 constant flow of good spirits, which continued to the last 
 hour, and a cheerful resignation to his fate, afforded them 
 some consolation. It was impossible not to feel a more than 
 common degree of compassion for a person whose life had 
 been a continued scene of those difficulties and hardships 
 to which a seaman's occupation is subject, and under which 
 he at last sunk. He was brought up to the navy from 
 his earhest youth, and had been in several actions during 
 the war which began in 1756, particularly in that between 
 the Bellona and Courageux, where, being stationed in 
 the mizzen-mast, he was carried overboard with the mast, 
 but was taken up without having received any hurt. He 
 was midshipman in the Dolphin, commanded by Com- 
 modore Byron, on her first voyage round the world, and 
 afterwards served on the American station. In 1768 he 
 made his second voyage round the world, in the Endeavour, 
 as master's mate, and by the promotion which took place 
 during the expedition, he returned a lieutenant. His third 
 voyage round the world was in the Resohction, of which he 
 was appointed second lieutenant, and soon after his return, 
 in 1775, he was promoted to the rank of master and com- 
 mander. When the present expedition was ordered to be 
 fitted out, he was appointed to the Discovery, to accompany 
 Captain Cook, and, by the death of the latter, succeeded, as 
 has been already mentioned, to the chief command. It would 
 be doing his memory extreme injustice not to say, that during 
 the short time the expedition was under his direction, he was 
 zealous and anxious for its success. His health, about the 
 timo the principal command devolved upon him, began to 
 decline v:ry rapidly, and was every way unequal to en- 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 4S5 
 
 counter the rigours of an Arctic climate. But the vigour and 
 activity of his mind had in no shape suffered by the decay of 
 his body ; and though he knew that, by delaying his return 
 to a warmer climate, he was giving up the only chance that 
 remained for his recovery, yet, careful and jealous to the last 
 degree for the honour of the service, he persevered in the 
 search for a passage, till it was the opinion of every officer 
 of both ships that it was impracticable, and that any further 
 attempts would be not only fruitless but dangerous. 
 
 I sent Mr. Williamson to acquaint Captain Gore with the 
 death of Captain Clerke, and received a letter from him 
 ordering me to use all my endeavours to keep in company 
 with the Discovery^ and in case of separation, to make the 
 best of my way to the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul. 
 
 On the 24th we anchored in the harbour of St. Peter and 
 St. Paul, with our ensign half mast, on account of our carry- 
 ing the body of our late captain, and were soon after followed 
 by the Discovery, 
 
 In the morning of the 25th, Captain Gore made out the 
 new commissions, in consequence of Captain Gierke's death, 
 appointing himself to the command of the Resolution, and 
 me to the command of the Discovery ; and Mr. Lanyan, 
 master's mate of the Resohition, who had served in that 
 capacity on board the Adventure in the former voyage, was 
 promoted to the vacant lieutenancy. These promotions 
 produced the following further arrangements ; Lieutenants 
 BUrney and Rickman were removed from the Discovery to 
 be first and second lieutenants of the Resolution ; and 
 Lieutenant Williamson was appointed first lieutenant of the 
 Discovery, Captain Gore also permitted me to take into the 
 Discovery four midshipmen, who made themselves useful to 
 me in astronomical calculations, and whose assistance was 
 now particularly necessary, as we had no ephemeris for the 
 present year. And, that astronomical observations might 
 continue to be made in both ships, Mr. Bayly took my place 
 in the Resolution. Captain Gore sent the carpenters of the 
 Resolution to assist those of the Discovery in repairing her ; 
 and, accordingly, the fore-hold being cleared to lighten her 
 forward, they were set to work to rip the damaged sheathing 
 from her larboard bow. By this operation it was discovered 
 
486 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 that three feet of the third strake, under the wale, were 
 staved, and the timbers within started. A tent was next 
 erected for the accommodation of such of our people as 
 were employed on shore, and a party were sent a mile into 
 the country to fell timber. The observatories were erected 
 at the west end of the village, near a tent in which Captain 
 Gore and myself took up our abode. The further we pro- 
 ceeded in removing the sheathing, the more we discovered 
 the decayed state of the ship's hull. 
 
 As the season was now far advanced, I was fearful lest any 
 delay or hindrance should arise, on our parts, to Captain 
 Gore's further views of discovery, and therefore gave orders 
 that no more sheathing should be ripped off than was abso- 
 lutely necessary for repairing the damages sustained by the ice. 
 In the afternoon of Sunday, the 29th of August, we paid the 
 last offices to Captain Gierke. The officers and men of both 
 ships walked in procession to the grave, whilst the ships fired 
 minute-guns, and the service being ended, the marines fired 
 three volleys. He was interred under a tree which stands on 
 rising ground, in the valley to the north side of the harbour, 
 where the hospital and store-houses are situated. Captain 
 Gore having judged this situation most agreeable to the 
 wishes of the deceased, who had particularly requested to be 
 buried on shore. The Russian priest walked in the proces- 
 sion along with the gentleman who read the service, and all 
 the Russians in the garrison were assembled, and behaved 
 with great respect and solemnity. 
 
 On the 2nd of September, the carpenters having shifted 
 the rotten and damaged planks, and repaired and caulked 
 the sheathing of the larboard bow, proceeded to rip off the 
 sheathing that had been injured by the ice, from the star- 
 board side. Here again they discovered four feet of a plank, 
 in the third strake under the wale, so shaken, as to make it 
 necessary to be replaced. This was accordingly done, and 
 the sheathing repaired on the 3rd ; we also unhung the 
 rudder, and sent it on shore, the lead of the pintles being 
 found entirely worn away, and a great part of the sheathing 
 rubbed off. The Resolution hauled on shore on the 8th, to 
 repair some damage received in her cutwater from the ice, 
 and our carpenters, in their turn, were sent to her assistance. 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 487 
 
 On the nth the Resolution hauled off from the shore, 
 having repaired the damages she had sustained by the ice, 
 and having received some flour and stores, we were ready 
 for sea on the 15th of September. The 22nd being the 
 anniversary of his Majesty's coronation, twenty-one guns 
 were fired, and the handsomest feast our situation would 
 allow of was prepared, in honour of the day. 
 
 No occurrence worth mentioning took place till the 30th, 
 when Captain Gore put up in the church where Captain 
 Clerke was buried, an escutcheon, prepared by Mr. Webber, 
 with an inscription setting forth his age and rank, and 
 the object of the expedition in which he was engaged at the 
 time of his decease. We also affixed to the tree under which 
 he was buried a board, with an inscription upon it to the 
 same effect. On the 2nd of October both ships warped out 
 of the harbour, clear of the narrow passage, and came to 
 anchor in seven fathoms, a quarter of a mile from the town. 
 The 3rd was the name-day of the Empress of Russia, and we 
 wanted no inducement to show it every possible respect. 
 Accordingly Captain Gore invited the priest and the com- 
 mander to dinner, and an entertainment was also provided 
 for the rest of the people, who dined with the ships' com- 
 panies, a pound of good fat beef being served out to each 
 man, and what remained of our spirits was made into grog, 
 and divided amongst them. A salute of twenty-one guns 
 was fired at the usual hour ; and the whole was conducted in 
 a manner not unworthy so renowned an empress. On the 
 5th of October we received from Bolcheretsk a fresh supply 
 of tea, sugar, and tobacco ; and on the 9th, finally stood out 
 of the bay. 
 
 Our instructions from the Board of Admiralty having left 
 a discretionary power with the commanding officer of the 
 expedition, in case of failure in the search of a passage from 
 the Pacific into the Atlantic Ocean, to return to England, by 
 whatever route he should think best for the further improve- 
 ment of geography, Captain Gore demanded of the principal 
 officers their opinions, in writing, respecting the manner in 
 which these orders might most effectually be obeyed. The 
 result of our opinions, which he had the satisfaction to find 
 unanimous, and entirely coinciding with his own, was, that 
 
48a COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 the condition of the ships, of the sails and cordage, made it 
 unsafe to attempt, at so advanced a season of the year, to 
 navigate the sea between Japan and Asia, which would other- 
 wise have afforded the largest field for discovery ; that it was 
 therefore advisable to keep to the eastward of that island, 
 and in our way thither to run along the Kuriles, and examine • 
 more particularly the islands that lie nearest the northern 
 coast of Japan, which are represented as of considerable 
 size, and independent of the Russian and Japanese govern- 
 ments. Our next object was to survey the coast of the 
 Japanese Islands, and afterward to make the coast of China, 
 as far to the northward as we were able, and run along it to 
 Macao. This plan being adopted, I received orders from 
 Captain Gore, in case of separation, to proceed immediately 
 to Macao ; ^and at six o'clock in the evening of the 9th of 
 October, having cleared the entrance of Awatska Bay, we 
 steered to the south-east, and proceeded on our voyage. On 
 the 29th of November we approached the coast of China, 
 and saw several Chinese fishing-boats, who eyed us with 
 great indifference. In the morning of the 30th we ran along 
 the Lema Isles, which, like all other islands on this coast, 
 are without wood, and, as far as we could observe, without 
 cultivation. At seven o'clock we had precisely the same 
 view of these islands as is represented in a plate of Lord 
 Anson's voyage. Our fears of missing Macao, and being 
 forced to Batavia, adding to the strong and eager desire of 
 hearing from Europe, made us rejoice on seeing the 
 Resolution soon after fire a gun, and hoist her colours as 
 a signal for a pilot. On repeating the signal we saw an 
 excellent race between four Chinese boats, and Captain 
 Gore, having engaged with the man who arrived first to carry 
 the ship to the Typa at Macao for thirty dollars, sent me 
 word that, as we could easily follow, that expense might 
 be saved to us. Soon after, a second pilot getting on 
 board the Resolution^ insisted on conducting the ship, and 
 without further ceremony laid hold of the wheel, and began 
 to order the sails to be trimmed. This occasioned a violent 
 dispute, which at last was compromised by their agreeing to 
 go shares in the money. In obedience to the instructions given 
 to Captain Cook by the Board of Admiralty, it now became 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 489 
 
 necessary to demand of the officers and men their journals, 
 and what other papers they might have in their possession 
 relating to the history of our voyage. The execution of these 
 orders seemed to require some delicacy as well as firmness. 
 As soon^ therefore, as I had assembled the ship's company 
 on deck, I acquainted them with the orders we had received, 
 and the reasons which I thought ought to induce them to 
 yield a ready obedience. At the same time I told them that 
 any papers which they were desirous not to have sent to the 
 Admiralty should be sealed up in their presence, and kept 
 in my own custody, till the intentions [of the Board, with 
 regard to the publication of the history of the voyage, were 
 fulfilled ; after which, they should be faithfully restored 
 to them. My proposals met with the approbation and the 
 cheerful compliance both of the officers and men ; and I am 
 persuaded that every scrap of paper containing any trans- 
 actions relating to the voyage were given up. Indeed, it is 
 bare justice to the seamen of this ship to declare that they 
 were the most obedient and the best disposed men I ever 
 knew, though almost all of them were very young, and had 
 never before served in a ship of war. The intelligence we 
 had just received of the state of affairs in Europe made us 
 the more anxious to hasten our departure ; and I therefore 
 hnmediately attempted to procure a passage to Canton, but 
 without effect. The Resolution saluted the Portuguese fort 
 with eleven guns, which were returned by the same number ; 
 and early on the 4th we stood into the Typa, and moored 
 with the stream anchor. 
 
 Much delay occurred in procuring the necessary supplies 
 from Canton, but at length, on the 30th of December, they 
 arrived, and were immediately stowed in due proportions 
 on board the two ships. On the nth of January, 1780, two 
 seamen belonging to the Resolution found means to run off 
 with a six-oared cutter, and, notwithstanding that diligent 
 search was made, we were never able to learn any tidings of 
 her or the runaways. At noon on the 12th of January we 
 unmoored and scaled* the guns, which, on board my ship, 
 now amounted to ten, so that, by means of four additional 
 
 * " Scaling " is cleaning the inside of a gun by the explosion of a reduced 
 quantity of powder. 
 
490 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 ports, we could, if occasion required, fight seven on a side ; 
 in like manner, the Resolution had increased the number of 
 her guns from twelve to sixteen, and in both ships a stout 
 barricade was carried round their upper works, and every 
 other precaution taken to give our small force as respectable 
 an appearance as possible. We thought it our duty to 
 provide ourselves with these means of defence, though we 
 had some reason to believe that the generosity of our 
 enemies had, in a great measure, rendered them superfluous. 
 We were informed at Canton that the public prints which 
 had arrived last from England made mention of instructions 
 having been found on board all the French ships of war 
 captured in Europe, directing their commanders, in case of 
 falling in with the ships that sailed under the command of 
 Captain Cook, to suffer them to proceed on their voyage 
 without molestation. The same orders were also said to 
 have been given by the American Congress to the vessels 
 employed in their service. As this intelligence was further 
 confirmed by the private letters of the supercargoes, Captain 
 Gore thought himself bound, in return for the liberal excep- 
 tions made in our favour, to refrain from availing himself of 
 any opportunities of capture which these seas might afford, and 
 to preserve throughout his voyage the strictest neutrality. 
 Having got under weigh at two in the afternoon the Resohc- 
 Hon saluted the fort of Macao with eleven guns, which was 
 returned with the same number. 
 
 On the 20th of January, 1780, we reached Pulo Condore,* 
 and on the 28th unmoored, and stood for the Straits 
 of Banca, after passing through which the ship's head 
 was steered for the Straits of Sunda. On the 9th of 
 February we learnt from a Dutch ship of war, which had 
 been seven months from Europe and three from the Cape of 
 Good Hope, that before she sailed France and Spain had 
 declared war against Great Britain, and that she left Sir 
 Edward Hughes, with a squadron of men-of-war and a fleet 
 of East India ships at the Cape. On the nth we anchored 
 at Prince's Island, when Lieutenant Lanyan, who had been 
 
 * Pulo signifies in the Malay tongue "an island," and Condore "a calabash," 
 of which it produces great quantities. The island is high and mountainous, and 
 is eight miles long with a breadth of two miles. 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 491 
 
 herewith Captain Cook in 1770, was sent, along with the 
 master, to look for the watering-place. The natives came 
 off to us soon after we anchored, and brought a plentiful 
 supply of large fowls, and some turtles. In the course of 
 the day we heeled the ship and scrubbed her bottom, which 
 was very foul, and got her ready for sea. On the 19th, 
 favoured by a fair breeze from the north-west, we broke 
 ground for the last time in the Straits of Sunda, and the 
 next day had lost sight of Prince's Island. During the 
 whole time of our run from thence to the Cape of Good 
 Hope, the crew of the Resolution was in a much more 
 sickly state than that of the Discovery ; for though many 
 of us continued for some time complaining of the effects 
 of the noxious climate we had left, yet happily we all 
 recovered. 
 
 Land was sighted on the 7th of April, and two days 
 later, a snow* was seen bearing down to us, which proved 
 to be an English East India packet, that had left Table 
 Bay three days before, and was cruising with orders for 
 the China fleet, and other India ships. She told us that, 
 about three weeks before, a French squadron, consist- 
 ing of six ships, had sailed from the Cape, and was gone 
 to cruise off St. Helena, for our East India fleet. Variable 
 winds prevented our getting into False Bay till the evening 
 of the 1 2th, when we dropped anchor abreast of Simon's Bay. 
 We found lying here the Nassatc and Sotdkampton East 
 Indiamen, waiting for convoy for Europe. The Resolution 
 saluted the fort with eleven guns, and the same number was 
 returned. Mr. Brandt, the governor of this place, came to 
 visit us as soon as we had anchored. This gentleman had 
 conceived a great affection for Captain Cook, who had been 
 his constant guest during his many visits to the Cape ; and 
 though he had received the news of his melancholy fate some 
 time before, he was exceedingly affected at the sight of our 
 ships returning without their old commander. He appeared 
 much surprised to see our crew in so stout and healthy a con- 
 
 * A snow resembles a brig. It has two masts similarly rigged to the main and 
 fore masts of a ship, and close abaft the main-mast a try-mast. Snows only 
 differ from brigs in that the boom-mainsail is hooped to the mast in the brig, and 
 in the snow traverses on the trj'sail-mast. 
 
492 COOICS VOYAGES. 
 
 dition, as the Dutch ship that had left Macao on our arrival 
 there, and had touched at the Cape some time before, re- 
 ported that we were in a most wretched state, having only 
 fourteen hands left on board the Resolution, and seven on 
 board the Discovery. 
 
 On the 1 5th I accompanied Captain Gore to Cape Town ; 
 and the next morning we waited on Baron Plettenberg, the 
 governor, by whom we were received with every possible 
 attention and civility. He had also conceived a great per- 
 sonal affection for Captain Cook, as well as the highest 
 admiration for his character, and heard the recital of his 
 death with many expressions of unaffected sorrow. In 
 one of the principal apartments of the governor's house he 
 showed us two pictures of Van Tromp and De Ruyter, with a 
 vacant space left between them, which he said he meant to 
 fill up with the portrait of Captain Cook ; and, for that pur- 
 pose, he requested our assistance when we should arrive in 
 England in purchasing one for him at any price. We were 
 afterwards informed by the governor, that all the powers at 
 this time at war with England had given orders to their 
 cruisers to let us pass unmolested. This, as far as related to 
 the French, we had sufficient reason to think true, as Mr. 
 Brandt had already delivered to Captain Gore a letter from 
 Mr. Stephens, Secretary to the Admiralty, enclosing a copy 
 of Mons. de Sartine's orders, taken on board the Licorne^ 
 With respect to the Americans, the matter still rested on 
 report ; but Baron Plettenberg assured us that he had been 
 expressly told by the commander of a Spanish ship, which 
 had touched at the Cape, that he and all the officers of this 
 nation had received orders to the same effect. These 
 assurances confirmed Captain Gore in the resolution he had 
 taken of maintaining, on his part, a neutral conduct ; and ac- 
 cordingly, when, on the arrival of the Sybil to convey the 
 India ships home, it was proposed to him to accompany 
 them on their passage, he thought it proper to decline the 
 offer. Having completed our victualling, and furnished our- 
 selves with the necessary supplies, we sailed out of the bay 
 on the 9th of May. On the 12th of June we crossed the 
 equator for the fourth time during our voyage ; and on the 
 1 2th of August made the western coast of Ireland, and after 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 493 
 
 a fruitless attempt to get into Port Galway, from whence it 
 was Captain Gore's intention to have sent the journals and 
 maps of our voyage to London, we \vere obliged, by strong 
 southerly winds, to steer to the northward.- Our next object 
 was to put into Lough Swilly, but the winds continuing in 
 the same quarter, we stood on to the northward of Lewis 
 Island ; and on the 22nd of August, at eleven in the morning, 
 both ships came to an anchor at Stromness. From hence I 
 was dispatched by Captain Gore to acquaint the Board of 
 Admiralty with our arrival ; and on the 4th day of October 
 the ships arrived safe at the Nore, after an absence of four 
 years, two months, and twenty-two days. On quitting the 
 Discovery at Stromness, I had the satisfaction of leaving the 
 whole crew in perfect health ; and at the same time the number 
 of convalescents on board the Resolution did not exceed two or 
 three, of whom only one was incapable of service. In the 
 course of our voyage, the Resolutio?t lost but five men by 
 sickness, three of whom were in a precarious state of health 
 at our departure from England. The Discovery did not 
 lose a man. An unremitting attention to the regulations 
 laid down by Captain Cook may be justly considered as the 
 principal cause, under the blessing of Divine Providence, of 
 this singular success. Another circumstance attending this 
 voyage, which, if we consider its duration, and the nature of 
 the service in which we were engaged, will appear scarcely 
 less singular than the extraordinary healthiness of the crews 
 was, that the two ships never lost sight of each other for a 
 day together, except tv.ice. The first time this was owing to 
 an accident that happened to the Discovery off the coast of 
 Owhyhee ; and die second, to the fogs we met with at the 
 entrance of Awatska Bay. A stronger proof cannot be given 
 of the skill and vigilance of our subaltern officers, to whom 
 this share of merit almost entirely belongs. 
 
 Let us also add what the modesty of Captain King 
 shrinks from recording, that the happy, and perhaps un- 
 precedented immunity from sickness and death enjoyed 
 by the crews of these two ships, and their successful 
 navigation through unknown seas, were results chiefly 
 due to the two commanders who so conscientiously 
 carried out the sanitary and disciplinary regulations of 
 
494 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 Captain Cook. Captains Gore and King had left England in 
 1776, as first and second lieutenants of the Resolution , and 
 returned as captains respectively of that ship and the Dis- 
 covery. During the years 1776-79, occupied by Captain 
 Cook in prosecuting the discoveries which have rendered his 
 last voyage at once the most memorable and most tragic of 
 the three, this country had been engaged in her disastrous 
 struggle with the thirteen colonies in North America ; but 
 though, from a political or military point of view, we have no 
 cause to plume ourselves on the success of our statesmen and 
 generals, the navy, at least, added to its laurels. This was 
 due, however, not to the victories of its admirals,* but to the 
 achievements of Captain Cook in the more peaceful domain of 
 science and discovery, in which our naval officers, from 
 the days of Willoughby and Frobisher, have ever been ardent 
 votaries. 
 
 Before concluding this narrative of Captain Cook's voyages, 
 we will briefly summarise the additions made by him to our 
 geographical and hydrographical knowledge. After his 
 services at the siege of Quebec, where he examined the 
 channels of the St. Lawrence and its shores in the vicinity 
 of Quebec, he surveyed a considerable distance of the 
 river below that city. In 1762, while master of Lord 
 Colville's flag-ship, the NortJmmberla7id^ he surveyed the 
 harbour of Placentia, and in the following year examined 
 some dangerous parts on the south coast of Newfoundland. 
 In 1764 his former friend and patron, Sir Hugh Palliser, 
 appointed him Surveyor -General of Newfoundland and 
 Labrador, and gaye him the command of a small vessel 
 
 * During these years, 1776-79, the general actions fought by our admirals 
 were all more or less indecisive. On June 28th, 1776, Sir Peter Parker was re- 
 pulsed at Charleston. Lord Howe's action with Count d'Estaing on 18th 
 August, 1778, and Admiral Keppel's with Count d'Orvilliers nine days later, 
 were both indecisive, and the latter gave rise to a court-martial, in which Sir 
 Hugh Palliser, Captain Cook's old commander and patron, preferred charges 
 against the Commander-in-Chief, for mismanagement and "unofficer-Iike con- 
 duct," which, however, resulted in the admiral's acquittal. A third indecisive 
 action was fought between Admiral Byron and Count d'Estaing off Grenada, in 
 the West Indies, on the 6th July, 1779. It was not until Sir George Rodney's 
 memorable defeat of the Count de Grasse, on the 12th April, 1782, that the British 
 Navy entered upon its career of victory, though Nelson at the Nile and 
 Trafalgar gave to British seamen the most instructive lessons in the art of anni- 
 hilating an enemy's fleet. 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 495 
 
 named the Granville, to assist him in carrying on his 
 operations. In this vessel he surveyed the whole of the west 
 coast of Newfoundland, and the south coast from the entrance 
 of the Gulf as far east as Cape Chapeau Rouge, with their 
 various bays and inlets, which from the rocky nature of the 
 island are very numerous, particularly on the southern shore. 
 These surveys were published shortly after their completion, 
 and are the materials from which all other charts of this part 
 of the coast have since been constructed.* 
 
 The south coast between Cape Ray, the westernmost point 
 of Newfoundland, and Cape Chapeau Rouge, including the 
 islands of Miquelon and St. Peter, was published on one sheet. 
 Another contains the whole western coast ; and the Straits 
 of Belle Isle, formed by the northern part of the island and 
 the opposite coast of Labrador, were given in another sheet. 
 The whole extent of coast surveyed by Mr. Cook is about 
 600 miles, and its various windings and indentations would 
 probably increase it by half that distance. Charts of the 
 various harbours on the coast were published on a large scale, 
 with suitable directions, and the whole examined with such care 
 as to require no revision. Mr. Cook's employment in the 
 capacity of Surveyor-General continued until 1767, during 
 which time he had not confined his attention to his duties as 
 Surveyor, but devoted himself to loftier pursuits, which in 
 their turn proved the means of recommending him for a 
 higher occupation, and formed the groundwork of his future 
 brilliant success. The Government having determined about 
 this time to explore the unknown seas of the southern 
 hemisphere. Captains Byron, Wallis, and Carteret prosecuted 
 their researches with some success ; and when the Royal 
 Society obtained the consent of the Admiralty for the 
 despatch of a ship to observe the transit of Venus, it was 
 decided that discovery should be the object of the expedition. 
 
 * The south-east part of Newfoundland, between Cape Chapeau Rouge and 
 Cape Bonavista on the east coast, was afterwards surveyed by Lieutenant 
 Lane, R,N., and published, with sailing directions, on a more extensive scale 
 than the west coast. This is contained in three sheets, comprising the Bay of 
 Placentia, Conception and Trinity Bays. The ijpmainder of the coast between 
 Cape Bonavista and the Straits of Belle Isle was surveyed by the late Admiral 
 Bullock, who was employed several years on this service, the results of which 
 were published by the Admiralty in three large sheets. 
 
496 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 When this was completed, Mr. Dalrymple, who advocated 
 . the existence of a southern continent, was chosen by the 
 Royal Society to conduct the voyage, Captain Cook being 
 at the time absent in America. An application was made 
 to Sir Edward Hawke, who then presided at the Admiralty, 
 for a commission for that gentleman, but the admiral 
 declined the request. At this juncture Sir Hugh Palliser 
 proposed Lieutenant Cook, and the recommendation being 
 supported by Mr. Stephens, Secretary of the Admiralty, 
 Mr. Cook was appointed to the Endeavour^ and sailed 
 early in August, 1768. His labours as a surveyor, during 
 his first voyage, commenced in Tierra del Fuego, where 
 he traced the coast as far as Cape St. Vincent and the 
 Bay of Good Success, in the Straits of Le Maire, which he 
 surveyed ; the former charts, formed from the rough sketches 
 of Hermite in 1624, and of its discoverers, Schouten and 
 Le Maire, being practically useless. On his way to Cape 
 Horn, the terrors of which he was the first navigator to 
 decry, Captain Cook traced the south-eastern shore of 
 Tierra del Fuego, with the islands lying off it, and his chart 
 of this coast is accompanied with useful instructions to the 
 seaman. Having taken a departure from Cape Horn,* the 
 first land Captain Cook saw was Lagoon Island, which he 
 named, and further west Thrumcap Island, and other coral 
 islets off the "Dangerous Archipelago," so called because 
 they afford no anchorage for a vessel, the water close to their 
 shores being over 100 fathoms in depth, similar to the island 
 to the northward, which was visited by Commodore Byron in 
 1765, but which, though his men were dying of scurvy, he was 
 unable to visit, whence he gave it the name of " Disappoint- 
 ment Island." 
 
 On the 13th of May, 1769, Captain Cook anchored in Matavai 
 Bay, in the island of Otaheite, and the interval afforded by 
 the delay in waiting for the transit of Venus he employed in 
 examining its shores, as well as those of the adjacent island 
 of Eimeo, called by Captain Wallis, Duke of York's Island. 
 
 * In his "Extracts from a Journal," Captain Hall well describes Cape Horn 
 as presenting "under every aspect, a bold and majestic appearance. It is a high, 
 precipitous, black rock, conspicuously raised above all the neighbouring land, 
 utterly destitute of vegetation, and extending far into the sea in bleak and solitary 
 erandeur." 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 497 
 
 The sun'-ey map constructed by Captain Cook is on a small 
 scale, but, considering the general nature of the coast, was 
 considered,* until recently, sufficient for the navigator, as he 
 supplied a separate plan of Matavai Bay, the eastern point of 
 which he named Point Venus, from its being the site of his 
 observatory. Having accomplished the object of his visit to 
 Otaheite, Captain Cook left the island in July, 1769 ; from 
 hence he pursued his course to the north-west, and after 
 ascertaining the situation of a small island to the northward 
 of Otaheite, discovered the group to which he gave collec- 
 tively the name of the Society Islands. The first of these 
 islands at which the Endeavour arrived was Huaheine, dis- 
 tant about ninety miles to the north-west of Otaheite. The 
 Endeavour entered the harbour of Ovvharre on the north- 
 west coast, of which, in point of its safety for vessels, Captain 
 Cook speaks very highly. Passing from hence, he arrived at 
 Ulietea, about twenty miles to the west of the former. This 
 is the most considerable of the Society Islands, and contains 
 several excellent harbours, which Captain Cook, with the 
 assistance of his master and other officers, carefully examined. 
 The principal harbour, Oopoa, which the Endeavour entered 
 according to Captain Cook's survey, is most secure and easy 
 of access. In addition to the plans of the principal har- 
 bours, as well as a delineation of their coasts from his obser- 
 vations. Captain Cook constructed a chart of these islands, 
 with descriptions and directions for future navigators. 
 
 Leaving the Society Islands, Captain Cook directed his 
 course to the southward, to ascertain the existence of the 
 southern continent, and on his way fell in with Oheteroa, a 
 small solitary island in lat. 22° 27' S., and long. 150° 47' W. 
 As this afforded neither anchorage nor shelter he quitted it, 
 and continued on to the lat. 40° 22' S., where, on the meridian 
 of 174° 29' W., not meeting with land, he returned to the 
 northward. Continuing his course to the north-west on the 
 8th of October, 1769, he anchored in a bay on the north-east 
 part of New Zealand, which Captain Cook named Poverty 
 Bay. Having examined its shores, and endeavoured in vain 
 to conciliate the natives, he left it and coasted along the 
 
 • * See a paper on Captain Cook's Hydrographical Labours in "The United 
 Service Journal," Part 2, 1829. 
 
 2 I 
 
498 COOICS VOYAGES, 
 
 island to the southward. In his track along the coast, the 
 various points and headlands were named by him ; and con- 
 tinuing his examination of the coast as far as 40*^ 34' S. lat. 
 he named a conspicuous point of land " Cape Turnagain," 
 and retraced his course to the northward. In his course 
 along the coast to the northward, the unfavourable opinion 
 he had entertained of the natives, from his first intercourse 
 with them in Poverty Bay, was in some measure removed by 
 those he met with in Tolaga Bay, a place he had stopped at for 
 the purpose of procuring a supply of water. Passing the 
 eastern extremity of the island, he named it Cape East, from 
 whence the coast trends to the northward and westward. 
 The principal place on this part of the coast is a large 
 deep bay, v/hich he named tlie Thames, in consequence of 
 its favourable qualities for affording security to shipping. 
 Here some time was passed in examining the interior, as 
 well as the shores of the island, and Captain Cook, aware of 
 the great advantages it possessed, devoted much attention to 
 this particular. He has left us a plan of the bay, as well as 
 the outer shore of the promontory by which it is formed, in 
 which is situated Mercury Bay, equally secure but not so 
 spacious as this, so called from his having observed the 
 planet's transit over the sun. 
 
 The Endeavour had now arrived at the northern extremity 
 of New Zealand, which Captain Cook named North Cape, 
 and passing Cape Van Diemen, the north-west extreme, 
 which was said to have been so named by Tasman* in 1642, 
 he continued his course along the western coast. New 
 Zealand had hitherto been supposed to consist of one island 
 only, from the accounts of it in " Tasman's Voyage," and it 
 was now Captain Cook's fortune to discover the strait by 
 
 *Tasman, after discovering Van Diemen's Land, which was then supposed to 
 be connected with New Holland, whose western and southern coasts had been 
 visited by his predecessors De Witt and others of his countrymen, directed his 
 course to the eastward and fell in with the western coast of New Zealand. In 
 his course to the northward, after his disasters in Murderer's Bay, where nearly 
 half the crew of his vessel fell victims to the natives, he named the north-west 
 extreme of the island Cape Van Diemen, and touched at New Guinea on his 
 return to Batavia. New Zealand is also supposed to have been known to the 
 early Portuguese navigators about the year 1550, for we find " Cape East'" of 
 Cook called " Cabo Fermoio" by them ; but it remained for Cook to explore • 
 and determine its limits, as well as to secure the possession of it to his country. 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 499 
 
 which it is intersected. In his track along the coast he 
 entered this strait, and came to an anchor in a large deep 
 bay, which he named Queen Charlotte's Sound ; here he took 
 formal possession of the whole country, and employed some 
 time in examining the coast. Queen Charlotte's Sound is 
 about twenty-four miles in depth, and about nine miles across 
 at the entrance ; it contains several excellent harbours, of 
 which Captain Cook has given particular accounts. 
 
 In February, 1770, the Endeavour left Queen Charlotte's 
 Sound, and was the first ship that penetrated through the 
 strait which bears his name, naming the north-east point of 
 the strait Cape Palliser ; and following the coast to the 
 northward, Captain Cook soon recognised Cape Turnagain, 
 and having thus circumnavigated the northern island of New 
 Zealand, he again returned to the southward. In his tracks 
 along the eastern shore of the southern island of New Zea- 
 land, he named Banks' Peninsula, and the next principal point 
 he called Cape Saunders, after Admiral Sir Charles Saunders, 
 under whom he had served at the siege of Quebec. From 
 here, after naming successively South and West Capes, he 
 traced the western coast up to Admiralty Bay in Cook's Strait. 
 
 He had now circumnavigated an extent of coast containing 
 about two thousand miles ; and having made particular 
 surveys of the bays he had visited, where it did not delay his 
 voyage, the intervening coasts were laid down as he sailed 
 along them. To have adopted any other method of survey- 
 ing them was not in his power, as discovery of coasts, rather 
 than a critical examination of them, was the object he had in 
 view. It seems to have been the intention of Captain Cook 
 to have returned to England by way of Cape Horn, had not 
 the condition of his vessel been such as to make him un- 
 willing to encounter the effects ot its boisterous climate. And 
 as it now became necessary to direct his course homewards, 
 he resolved to continue to the west, in hopes of falling in 
 with the land seen by Quiros,"^ and to return to England 
 by way of the Cape of Good Hope. With this intention 
 he left Cook's Strait, and named the southern cape at its 
 
 * Quiros served as pilot with Torres in his voyage from Callao, in 1605, when 
 he discovered the lamous strait which bears his name. The station of pilot on 
 board Spanish ships is one of mnch respectability, and nearly approaches that 
 of master in our navy. 
 
^60 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 western entrance, Cape Farewell. By this step further 
 discoveries awaited him of a yet more important nature than 
 those he had already effected. Pursuing his course to the 
 westward from New Zealand, on the 19th of April, 1770, the 
 Endeavour arrived near the southern extremity of Australia,* 
 and following the coast to the northward, Captain Cook 
 named the various points and headlands which he passed, 
 assigning to each their geographical situations. The first 
 place at which he stopped was the celebrated spot he named 
 Botany Bay, from the vast quantity of specimens it afforded 
 in that science. During his stay he made a plan of the 
 shores of the bay, and drew up directions for entering it. 
 Leaving Botany Bay, the Endeavour pursued her course 
 along the coast without meeting with any particular diffi- 
 culties until she arrived in the latitude of 16*^ S. Here 
 Captain Cook found himself in that labyrinth of rocks on the 
 coast which had nearly proved fatal to his vessel. " Hitherto,'' 
 he says, "we had safely navigated this dangerous coast, 
 where the sea in all parts conceals shoals that suddenly pro- 
 ject from the shore, and rocks that rise like a pyramid from 
 the bottom, for an extent of two-and-twenty degrees of 
 latitude, more than 1,300 miles ; and, therefore, hitherto none 
 of the names that distinguished the several parts of the 
 country we saw are memorials of distress ; but here we be- 
 came acquainted with misfortune, and we therefore called 
 the point which we had just seen furthest to the northward. 
 Cape Tribulation." On one of the reefs the Endeavour un- 
 fortunately grounded, and, from lying on it nearly twenty-four 
 hours, sustained considerable injury. Happily, however, 
 the exertions of all on board were effectual in getting 
 her off, and the fruits of the voyage were thus rescued 
 from destruction. With some difficulty Captain Cook suc- 
 ceeded in getting her into an inlet on the coast, which he 
 named Endeavour River. From hence, threading his 
 course between the reefs, he passed the northern extremity 
 
 * We have here an instance of the slow progress of discovery even in later 
 times. Although Van Diemen's Land was discovered by Tasman in 1642, and 
 Captain Cook arrived at the southernmost point of Australia in 1770, they were 
 supposed to be connected together until 1799, when Captain Flinders, accompanied 
 by Mr. Bass, discovered the strait which separates them, and gave it the name 
 of Bass's Strait. 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 501 
 
 of Australia, to which he gave the name of Cape York, 
 and finally departed from the coast through Endeavour 
 Straits. Captain Cook had thus the good fortune to discover 
 and explore the whole eastern coast of Australia, and it is a 
 matter of some surprise that the voyages of the early Dutch 
 navigators, who had seen the several parts of the western 
 coast, should not have extended to this. His chart of this 
 coast, containing nearly 2,000 miles, which he had constructed 
 in his progress along it, was far from being perfect ; but it 
 was highly valuable in the absence of all other information. 
 The coast he had explored, as well as the other shores of 
 this vast continent, remained for the future researches of 
 Captain Flinders, -Captain P. P. King, and other later sur- 
 veyors. Having left Endeavour Strait, Captain Cook directed 
 his course to New Guinea, and coasted along a part of its 
 south-west shore ; but the injuries his vessel had sustained 
 compelled him to hasten his departure for Batavia. Having 
 refitted at this place, and re-established the health of his 
 crew, after touching at the Cape of Good Hope, he arrived in 
 England in June 1771, to surprise the world with the account 
 of his discoveries. 
 
 Allusion has been made to a publication of Mr. Dalrymple's, 
 on the existence of a southern continent. This work ap- 
 peared in 1770. Although various opinions were ventured on 
 its probability, previous to the Endeavour's voyage, inferred 
 from his observation that the vast extent of land in the 
 northern hemisphere required a corresponding portion in the 
 southern, to preserve that which, in the minds of philo- 
 sophers, seemed to be a just equilibrium, or, as it was termed, 
 "the analogy of nature" — Mr. Dalrymple, in -his ardour to 
 establish the existence of a southern continent, followed up 
 with unsparing perseverance the accounts of various early 
 navigators ; and never was any one more widely misled than 
 he was by the accounts of Tasman and Juan Fernandez. 
 The former, he asserted, had discovered its western hmit 
 (which proved to be the western coast of New Zealand), and 
 the latter had established the existence of its eastern. These 
 comprised a space of no less than one hundred degrees of 
 longitude, and imagining the land to extend from about thirty 
 degrees of south latitude towards the Pole, he calculated that 
 
502 COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 it should contain at least fifty millions of inhabitants. It is 
 the more remarkable that he should have been so much mis- 
 led, as he admits that the accounts of the early voyagers 
 were vague ; and we find the western coast of South 
 America, with the island of Juan Fernandez and Easter 
 Island, very tolerably laid down in his chart published with 
 the work. But so certain was he of the justness of his 
 opinion, that even the return of the Endeavour from circum- 
 navigating New Zealand did not alter it ; and the land 
 reported by Juan Fernandez, in 40^ S. latitude, with more 
 stated to have been seen by Dutch navigators, both north and 
 south of it, still remained in his chart. 
 
 Whatever may be said for the reasons that induced Mr. 
 Dalrymple to form his conclusions, his investigations of a 
 subject of such importance were well timed, and served to 
 keep alive that spirit of research which had happily taken 
 root, and which the advanced period of the age absolutely 
 demanded. Although his theory turned out to be founded 
 on misstatements, we are indebted to him for being instru- 
 mental in proving it erroneous. As the part of the world 
 which was the theatre of his speculations remained yet unex- 
 plored, no one could contradict him, and his opinion was 
 received with that degree of attention which was due to one 
 who had spared neither time nor labour to investigate this all- 
 important subject* The success which had attended the 
 
 * Alexander Dalrymple, the seventh out of sixteen children of Sir James 
 Dalr5''mple, was born at New Hailes on the 24th of July, 1737. He received little 
 or no education, and it was not until after he had gone out to Madras as a writer 
 in 1752, that he taught himself accounts, and the French and Spanish languages. 
 In 1759 he was sent on a voyage to the Eastern Islands, and acquired much 
 nautical experience. In 1765 he returned to England, and published several 
 charts and plans of coasts and anchorages. He went back to Madras as a Member 
 of Council under Lord PIgot in 1776, and finally went home in 1777. Two years 
 afterwards he received the official appointment of hydrographer to the East India 
 Company. Dalrymple was a most indefatigable collector of geographical 
 materials. Rennell acknowledges the assistance he received from him in the 
 preparation of his great map of Hindustan ; and Dr. Vincent was indebted to 
 him for the maps and charts to illustrate his great work, " The Voyage of 
 Nearchus." Dalrymple, in T770, translated from the Spanish and published the 
 voyages of Magellan, Juan Fernandez, Mandana and Quiros, Le Maire and 
 Schouten, Tasman and Roggewein ; and Admiral Burney, in the preface to his 
 great work on "Voyages in the Pacific," says that the above translations of 
 Dalrymple were his vade vtecutn, and that he was largely indebted to their 
 author. He gave innumerable tracts to the world on various subjects, which are 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 503 
 
 Endeavour's voyage bespoke her commander a fit person to 
 set this question at rest. In addition to his quahties as a 
 seaman, and his scientific attainments, the uniform health 
 which he had preserved among his crew alone signalised 
 him from all former navigators. He was, therefore, selected 
 for the expedition, and appointed to the Drake on the 28th 
 of November, 177 1, though this name not being considered 
 altogether consonant with the character of the voyage in 
 contemplation, was changed to the Resolution^ on which 
 account he received a fresh appointment to the command, 
 dated the 25th of December, 177 1. The Adventure, com- 
 manded by Captain Furneaux, was appointed to accompany 
 him, and fully equipped and prepared, the two ships 
 finally quitted Plymouth on the 13th of July, 1772.* From 
 the Cape of Good Hope he sailed, in pursuance of the 
 object of his voyage, in November, 1772, in search of land 
 towards the south, not, however, within those limits in which 
 Mr. Dalrymple supposed it to exist. After penetrating as far 
 as lat. 67° 15' S. on the meridian of 38° E., and again into 
 61° 52' in long. 95° E., without discovering land, having 
 parted from the Adventure in bad weather, the Resolution 
 proceeded to New Zealand. Her consort, the Adventure^ 
 directed her course to Van Diemen's Land, which Captain 
 Furneaux then imagined to be connected with Australia. He 
 stood into the eastern entrance of Bass's Strait, and was 
 deceived by King's Island, and the others lying near it, which 
 led him to suppose it to be nothing more than a deep bay. 
 This he afterwards reported to Captain Cook at New Zealand, 
 and prevented him from exploring it. 
 
 bound up in three volumes in the Royal Geographical Society's library, and also 
 collected tracts on the geography, commerce, and products of the East, bound 
 up in two volumes, and known as the " Oriental Repository." Dalrymple's 
 strictly official work is represented by 58 charts, 740 plans, and 57 views of coasts — 
 in all 855 plates, besides 50 nautical memoirs. In 1795 the office of hydrographer 
 to the Admiralty was created, and Dalrymple was the first to hold it, together 
 with the same post at the India House. He filled it until 1808, when, on the 
 28th of May, he was summarily dismissed by Lord Mulgrave, and died on the 19th 
 of June following. — (C. R. Markham's Memoir 0}i the Indian Siirveys). 
 
 * Whilst we are considering the benefits which the science of Hydrography 
 has received from Captain Cook, we must not omit noticing a paper "On the 
 Tides in the Pacific," which he had supplied, drawn up from his observations 
 during the last voyage. This was read before the Royal Society, and will b^ 
 found in Volume 62 of the "Philosophical Transactions." 
 
504 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 The first discovery Captain Cook made, after leaving his 
 old anchorage in Queen Charlotte's Sound, was a small island 
 of the "Dangerous Archipelago," which he named Resolution 
 Island ; and shortly afterwards, on his way to Otaheite, he 
 named two others Doubtful and Furneaux Islands. After a 
 few days passed at the Society Islands he left them, in 
 September, 1773, and directed his course to the westward. 
 His next discovery was Hervey Island; and passing Amster- 
 dam and Middleburgh Islands, of Tasman, the southernmost 
 of the Friendly Islands, the Resolution again anchored in 
 Queen Charlotte's Sound, New Zealand. By adopting this 
 course he had renovated the health of his crew, and prepared 
 them for encountering the severities to which they would 
 become exposed in his voyage to the southward, besides 
 employing in discovery the time that intervened until the 
 southern summer. 
 
 Having previously parted from the Adventure^ Captain 
 Cook left Queen Charlotte's Sound, and steered well to the 
 southward. He continued his course as far as 67° 31' S. lat. 
 ii: ^ong. 142° 54' W., where, from the prevalence of ice- 
 bei^'s, he was compelled to return to the northward. The 
 Resolution was now in the situation which was assigned to 
 the supposed land, and her track fully displays the pains 
 which her commander took to discover or set aside the possi- 
 bility of its existence. Having reached the latitude of 48^ S. 
 he again directed his course to the southward, and penetrated 
 to lat. 71° 10' S., long. io5° 54' W. Meeting here again with 
 icebergs, he directed his course to the northward, taking 
 care to keep close to the meridian in which the land was said 
 to have been seen by Tasman and Juan Fernandez. The 
 Resolutio7i now directed her course to Easter Island, called 
 St. Carlos, Davis, or Pascua, which is a translation of Easter 
 Island. The Resolution lost no time here, but proceeded 
 immediately to the Marquesas, a small group lying to the 
 north-east of the Society Islands. These were known to the 
 Spaniards, having been discovered by Mendana in 1595, in 
 his voyage from Callao. Captain Cook had some difficulty, 
 on account of reefs, in getting anchorage here, but succeeded 
 in obtaining it in a bay of the island of St. Christina, which 
 he named Resolution Bay, being the same wifich Mendan?v 
 
Baacioft UbtBiy 
 
 THE THIRD VOYAGE, 505 
 
 had called the Bay of Madre de Dios. From the Marquesas 
 the Resohttioti proceeded to Otaheite, and discovered on her 
 way a small group, which was named Palliser Islands. 
 After leaving the Society Islands, the first land discovered 
 was Palmerston Island, lying about half-way between the 
 Society and Friendly Islands, which was named after Lord 
 Palmerston, then in the Admiralty. Savage Island was next 
 discovered, and received its name from the hostile conduct 
 of the natives. After touching again at Rotterdam, Turtle 
 Island was discovered in long. 178° W., and from thence the 
 Resohitio7i avoided the Fiji Islands by keeping rather a 
 southerly coast. The land next seen was Aurora Island of 
 the New Hebrides, a considerable group of islands, through 
 the midst of which Bougainville had passed in 1768, and had 
 named the "Archipelago of the great Cyclades." They were 
 discovered by Quiros in 1606, but the accounts of them were 
 vague, and they were supposed to form part of the southern 
 continent, until satisfactorily explored by Captain Cook. 
 
 On the 4th of September, 1774, the Resolution arrived on 
 the northern coast of New Caledonia, so named by her com- 
 mander. The friendly disposition of the natives here enabled 
 him to observe the eclipse of the sun, which took place on 
 the second day after his arrival. He coasted along the 
 northern shore of this island, ascertaining its limits ; and 
 from thence, on his way to New Zealand, discovered Norfolk 
 Island, which was the only considerable one he found unin- 
 habited. Captain Cook now determined on quitting the 
 Pacific, and, in order that no part of the Southern Ocean 
 lying between his former tracks might remain unexplored, he 
 proposed running to Tierra del Fuego, between the parallels 
 of 54*^ and 55^, The Resolution accordingly sailed from 
 New Zealand in November, and made Landfall Island, on 
 the coast of Tierra del Fuego, on the 17th of December fol- 
 lowing. He was now on a coast which it had been hitherto 
 the study of everyone to avoid, and thus was left to him the 
 credit of ascertaining the S.W. limits of this land, as in his 
 first voyage he had the south-eastern. Continuing to the 
 south-east along the coast, he determined the position, and 
 named the various points between Landfall Island and 
 Christmas Sound^ in which latter place he anchored to refit, 
 
5o6 COOICS VOYAGES. 
 
 and procure those supplies which this dreary country could 
 afford towards renovating the health of his crew. From 
 Christmas Sound the Resohttion proceeded on her course 
 round Cape Horn. Captain Cook having determined to ex- 
 plore the shore of Staten Island, after doubling Cape St. 
 John, entered New Year's Harbour, of which he made 
 a chart. In addition to his account of its shores, he 
 gives the navigator some further valuable remarks on the 
 Strait of Le Maire. Leaving this island, the Resolution 
 again stood to the S.E. in search of land, stated by Mr- 
 Dalrymple to exist in that direction ; and on the 14th of 
 January, 1775, discovered a large island, on which the name 
 of Georgia was bestowed. Captain Cook explored the coasts 
 of this island, and took possession of it, although, as he 
 observes, it could be no very desirable appendage to his 
 Majesty's new possessions. From New Georgia the Resolu- 
 tion continued to the eastward, and shortly fell in with land, 
 which was named Sandwich Land, after Lord Sandwich, then 
 First Lord of the Admiralty. Having ascertained its limits, 
 and named the various points of the coast, after another un- 
 successful search to the southward for land, the Resolution 
 arrived at the Cape on the 22nd of February, and returned to 
 Spithead on the 30th of July following. Captain Cook was of 
 opinion that land did exist near the South Pole, a supposi- 
 tion which has since been proved to be correct, from the 
 discoveries of Weddell and Ross ; but he proved by his 
 track that it did not exist to the northward of 60^ S. latitude, 
 and, as he says, " he had traversed the ocean in such a manner 
 as to leave no doubt that there is no continent unless near 
 the Pole, and o'ut of the reach of navigation." He had now 
 returned from another voyage as successful as his former, in 
 each of which he had circumnavigated the globe. In his 
 first he had made discoveries of unknown coasts of con- 
 siderable extent, after effecting .the principal object of the 
 voyage. In his second, which was chiefly intended to 
 substantiate or set aside the existence of a southern con- 
 tinent, he had shown that it did not extend to the northward 
 of 60^ latitude, but had discovered many islands of the 
 Pacific. The New Hebrides, although known to the 
 Spaniards long before he visited them, as to their situation, 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 507 
 
 were unknown as to their number or extent, and had been 
 supposed to form part of a southern continent. For these 
 services he was promoted to the rank of post-captain on 
 the 9th of August, 1775, and received an appointment as one 
 of the captains of Greenwich Hospital. 
 
 The unsuccessful attempt of Lord Mulgrave to reach the 
 Pole in the Racehorse and Carcase in 1773, whilst Captain 
 Cook was exploring the southern hemisphere, induced him 
 to offer his services to the Government. His former success- 
 ful voyages, in which he had displayed a peculiar firmness 
 and perseverance, bespoke him as one well adap'-jd for the 
 undertaking ; and Lord Sandwich, then First L. /d of the 
 Admiralty, appointed him to the command of his former 
 ship, the Resolution^ with Captain Gierke to accompany him 
 in the Discovery. On the 12th of July, 1776, the Resolution 
 finally sailed from Plymouth, and was joined by the Dis- 
 covery at the Cape of Good Hope, on the expedition from 
 which neither of the commanders were to return. The first 
 object of this voyage was to ascertain the situation of the 
 islands discovered by Crozet, the French navigator, lying to 
 the south-east of the Cape. These were now examined, and 
 named Prince Edward's Islands, and the position of four 
 others ascertained, which were left with the name of their 
 discoverer. The ships next proceeded to Kerguelen. They 
 afterwards coasted along the eastern shore, and with some 
 difficulty succeeded in getting into a harbour, which was 
 named Port PaUiser. Continuing along the eastern coast, 
 its limits were defined, and thus was removed all idea of this 
 land being connected with any other extending from the 
 South Pole, as Kerguelen (a lieutenant in the French service) 
 had imagined when he discovered it in 177 1. From this 
 land the two ships directed their course for Van Diemen's 
 Land, where they shortly arrived, and put into Adventure 
 Bay, on the southern coast. A rock lying off South Cape of 
 Van Diemen's Land received the name of the Eddystone 
 from its resemblance to that lighthouse. No time was lost 
 here, and the ships proceeded immediately to New Zealand. 
 Leaving New Zealand on their way to the northward, the 
 islands Mangua and Wateea were discovered, from whence 
 they proceeded to Hervey's Island, which had been dis- 
 
5o8 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 covered in the former voyage. From hence they continued 
 their course to Amsterdam Island. Captain Cook devoted 
 some time to an investigation of the Friendly Islands, an Archi- 
 pelago which required more time thoroughly to explore than 
 he could bestow. " Sixty-one of these islands/' he says, 
 " have their proper places marked upon our charts of the 
 Friendly Islands, and on the sketch of the harbour of Tonga- 
 taboo, to both of which I refer the reader. But it must be 
 left to future navigators to introduce into the geography of 
 this part of the South Pacific Ocean the exact situation and 
 size of ne^r a hundred more islands in this neighbourhood, 
 which we Jiad not an opportunity to explore." A glance at 
 the chart of this part will convince anyone of the labyrinth 
 of small islands and sunken dangers which prevail here, and 
 there is no doubt that the northern part of these were the same 
 as Tasman's "Prince William's Islands." From the friendly 
 disposition of the natives, Captain Cook was enabled to obtain 
 satisfactory observations for the geographical situation of 
 those he saw, and named them the Friendly Islands. In 
 July, 1777, the ships left these islands, and on their way to 
 Otaheite, discovered the small island of Toobouai, in 
 lat. 23^ 25' and long. 150*^ W., and in the middle of 
 August arrived in Matavai Bay, Otaheite. The time between 
 this and December was employed in preparing for the prin- 
 cipal object of the voyage to the northward when they quitted 
 Otaheite. Having crossed the equator, Christmas Island 
 was discovered in 2^ North latitude and 170*^ 30' West longi- 
 tude, and was so called from that day being passed there. 
 Pursuing their course to the northward, they next arrived at 
 the westernmost of the Sandwich Islands, a discovery which 
 was destined to prove fatal to its author. The island Atooi, 
 with four small islands, were all that were now seen ; and 
 the time drawing near when Captain Cook was anxious to be 
 on the coast of America, he did not stop to explore the rest 
 of the group, but confined himself to determining the position 
 and delineating the coasts of these. 
 
 The attempts to effect a passage to the northward of 
 America had hitherto been made from the east, but Captain 
 Cook was now about to attempt it from the west. In com- 
 pliance with his instructions, he arrived on the western coast 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 509 
 
 of North America in lat. 45° N. The attention of Captain 
 Cook, in his progress along the coast, was particularly- 
 directed to the discovery of the Strait of San Juan de Fuca. 
 Observing the opening to the southward of Vancouver's 
 Island, he named the southern point of it Cape Flattery, 
 from the prospect it afforded of being this strait, from whence 
 he continued along the coast, and put into Nootka Sound. 
 A particular sketch of this sound was made, and the 
 attention bestowed on the delineation of the coast was 
 sufficient to define its hitherto unknown limits ; the care 
 which Captain Cook paid to this particular, led him to believe 
 that no strait could possibly exist. 
 
 Proceeding from Nootka Sound to the northward, the 
 ships were unable, from the state of the weather, to keep 
 near the shore, until they arrived on the coast at Cape Mount 
 Edgecumbe, in lat. 57° 3' N., from whence they continued 
 coasting, and put into Prince William's Sound." The shore 
 here was critically examined, as well as in Cook's Inlet after- 
 wards. Continuing their route along the coast of Alaska, 
 the ships put into the harbour in the island of Oonalashka, 
 the various islands and points having been named as they 
 were passed. As no time was to be lost, they immediately 
 proceeded to the northward, ranging along the shore of 
 Bristol Bay. Passing Cape Newenham, the northern point 
 of this bay, they were obliged to stand to the westward, in 
 order to avoid shoal water extending off the coast. After 
 naming Point Rodney, the ships arrived at the western ex- 
 tremity of North America, which was named Cape Prince of 
 Wales. With a view to determine the absolute width of 
 Behring's Strait, the ships proceeded across to the Asiatic 
 shore, passing the small islands which lie in the middle, and 
 came to an anchorage in St. Lawrence Bay. From thence 
 they recrossed the strait, and after naming Cape Lisburne 
 and Icy Cape, on the American shore, penetrated to the north 
 as far as lat. 70^ 44' N., on the i8th of August, 1778. This 
 was the highest latitude attained, although some days were 
 passed in fruitless exertions to get further to the northward 
 through the ice. The main object of the voyage being re- 
 linquished for the present season, they returned along the 
 coast of Asia, fixing the position of North Cape and Cape 
 
5IO COOK'S VOYAGES, 
 
 East, which latter name was bestowed on its eastern ex- 
 tremity in lat. 66^ 6' N. The ships again visited St. Lawrence 
 Bay, Captain Cook being anxious to find a convenient 
 anchorage to which he might resort in the ensuing spring, 
 after which Norton Sound, on the American coast, was ex- 
 plored. Here terminated the arduous labours of this expe- 
 dition in Behring's Strait ; and having determined the situ- 
 ation of Clarke's Island, now called Isle St. Lawrence, they 
 returned to the harbour in the island of Oonalashka, which 
 place they quitted for the Sandwich Islands in October, 
 1778. They shortly arrived at Atooi, the north-eastern of 
 these islands, and proceeded to Owhyhee, where the unhappy 
 event occurred which deprived the British navy of its brightest 
 ornament, and the world of a useful citizen. 
 
 Thus for the first time were the proper limits assigned to 
 Behring's Strait, and the adjacent shores of America and 
 Asia defined, besides an extent of 2,000 miles of the American 
 coast. An attempt was made by the Russian Government 
 in 181 5 to effect a north-east passage through Behring's 
 Strait. Lieutenant Kotzebue, who was despatched for this 
 purpose with a single vessel, the Rurick^ obtained much 
 credit for the manner in which he conducted the voyage, 
 although his researches to the northward of the Strait were 
 limited to a large inlet, lying between Cape Prince of Wales 
 and Cape Lisburne, which had not been noticed by Captain 
 Cook. This he named Kotzebue Sound, and the land forming 
 the northernmost point of it Cape Kruzenstern* The highest 
 northern latitude obtained by Captain Cook was 70^ 44' (by 
 reckoning), but Captain Beechy was more successful, and 
 in 1827 reached as far as 71" 25' in long. 156^ W., by which 
 means a space of about 150 miles of coast only remained 
 unexplored between Point Barrow, the north-east point 
 reached by Captain Beechy, and Point Beechy, the north- 
 west limit of Captain Sir John Franklin's land expeditions 
 from the mouth of McKenzie's River. The work of explora- 
 tion on this side has been nobly completed by the late Sir 
 Robert McClure, who forged the missing link between 
 Beechy's farthest on one side and Franklin's on the other. 
 Still, alfhost the entire area within the eightieth degree of 
 north latitude, including the portion north of Behring's 
 
THE THIRD VOYAGE, 511 
 
 Strait, between 150^ E. and 130° W. long., is unexplored, 
 and the aggregate of this vast area is computed to be not 
 less than 2,400,000 square miles — an expanse which cannot 
 fail to afford a great field for scientific research. The highest 
 latitude yet reached was attained by the steamer Polaris, 
 under the command of Captain C. F. Hall, of the United 
 States Navy. She left Disco on the 17th of August, 1871, 
 and, after touching at Upefnivik and Tussuisak for dogs and 
 skin clothing, proceeded, on the 24th of August, directly to 
 the north, and passed through Smith Sound and Kennedy 
 Channel with little or no obstruction from the ice. Pursuing 
 her course still northward, she entered Robeson Channel, 
 which was found to be from twenty-five to thirty miles in 
 width, with high land on either side ; and on the 30th of 
 August she reached, as already stated, the highest latitude' 
 made — 82^ 16' N. At this point the course of the Polaris 
 was effectually checked by heavy floating ice, which extended 
 entirely across the Strait ; but to the north was open water, 
 and altogether a milder climate than has been found in more 
 soutliern positions. Indeed, it is believed by scientific men 
 that the prevalent temperature at the Pole is milder than that 
 of the frozen circle which surrounds it, just as parts of the 
 equatorial belt are more temperate than the tropics ; so that 
 it is possible the region round the North Pole may prove to 
 be one vast watery or unfrozen centre of an encompassing 
 frozen circle. 
 
 The news of the success attending the attempt to push 
 beyond the highest latitude yet attained by our flag, and still 
 more the intelligence of the discovery on the 80^ parallel of 
 Franz Josef Land, by Lieutenants Weyprecht and Payer, of 
 the Austrian navy, fired the national emulation, and induced 
 a Conservative Government to reverse the unwise decision 
 of their Liberal predecessors, and launch from our shores an 
 expedition in every way better fitted than any of its pre- 
 cursors. We may anticipate, without being over sanguine, 
 that the nation whose seamen discovered the magnetic 
 Pole, explored the Arctic and Antarctic regions, and solved 
 the question of the North-West Passage, which for three 
 centuries had defied the attempts of explorers of every 
 nation, will also plant the Union Jack, that glorious emblem 
 
512 COOK'S VOYAGES. 
 
 of England's sovereignty, on that mysterious point of the 
 earth's surface, the North Pole, upon which the popular 
 mind is bent, though it forms by no means the chief object 
 of the expedition. That Captain Nares and his gallant band 
 of officers and men, upon whom the eyes of their country- 
 men, and of the whole civilised world, are fixed, will succeed 
 in winning the " blue riband " of geographical research, is 
 the earnest hope of every patriotic Briton. It would be 
 hard indeed were it otherwise after more than three cen- 
 turies of explorations, during which much treasure and 
 hundreds of lives have been sacrificed. 
 
 In the preceding pages we have given a brief survey of the 
 work of many great explorers ; but while the value and 
 extent of Captain Cook's additions to our knowledge of the 
 Polar regions have been equalled by the contributions of 
 other seamen, he stands pre-eminent as the greatest and 
 most renowned circumnavigator that this or any other 
 country has produced. While other explorers discovered 
 unknown lands and islands, only to sail away after sighting 
 them. Captain Cook determined their insularity, or otherwise 
 fixed their position on the chart, and surveyed them as far 
 as time and circumstances would permit. With him the 
 merely vulgar thirst for fame as a discoverer gave place to a 
 determination to make a scientific and methodical survey of 
 the coasts and seas he traversed, and record a full ethno- 
 logical description of the races inhabiting the countries and 
 islands he visited. 
 
 It may with truth be said that, in the long roll of illus- 
 trious naval heroes, whose deeds have illumined the pages 
 of this country's annals, few there are who have better 
 earned a niche in the temple of fame, and a place in the 
 hearts of their countrymen, than the intrepid seaman, scien- 
 tific officer, and accomplished navigator, Captain James 
 Cook. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 CHARLES DICKENS AND EVANS, CRYSTAL PALACE PRBS5* 
 
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