.NRLF ■f'P IC\- T'^^ ^ iv r 1 1 i. I ri \ ■' ii V i 1 k^ ^ X. Js \ -' >■.. Vx' J^. imi 'i ^»^» ^ :N:._N'i^H EE 1 ■^ REESE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, Accession No. /&J, U 6 • ^^"^^^^^ ^''' „^t,i->f j-foi t^fi,i,i.'U-f.J NOTATIONS OF SUPPLEMENTS OR HYDROGRA- PHIC NOTICES RELATING TO THIS 1500K. To be filled in by Navigating Officer. [In Chart Depots the two first columns are alone to be filled up.] Whether Supplement or Hyd. Notice. Date of Publication and N umber. Whether pasted in or noted in Marg ns of book, and date of such correction. SO 11899— 1006— 2/96 Wt 24654 D & S. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2007 with funding from IVIicrosoft Corporation http://www.archive.org/details/australiadirectoOOgrearich Kj^ ' • ^^. . rr ^^ THE 'Ih AUSTRALIA DIRECTOEY. VOLUME T. SOUTH AND EAST COASTS FEOM CAPE LEE U WIN TO POET JACKSON ; INCLUDING BASS STRAIT; AND TASMANIA. CHIEFLY FROM THE RESULT OF VARIOUS SURVEYS MADE BY ORDER OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. ORIGINALLY COMPILED BY Captain CHARLES B. YULE, R.N. NINTH EDITION PUBLISHED BY ORDER OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. LONDON: PRINTED FOR THE HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE, LONDON, By DAELING & SON, Ltd., 1, 2, 3 & 5, Great St. Thomas Apostle, E.G. ; AND sold BY J. D. POTTER, Agekt for the sale of Admiralty Charts, 31, poultry, and 11, KING STREET, TOWER HILL. 1897. Price Five Shillings. 6Z4^ <^ ADVERTISEMENT TO THE NINTH EDITION. The Australia Directory, Vol. I., contains sailing directions for the south coast of Australia, commencing at cape Leeuwin, proceeding towards and including Bass strait and Tasmania, and thence along the east coast to port Jackson. The early editions of t^is volume were derived from the original survey of the coast by Captain Flinders, and the subsequent examination of various parts by Captains Sir J. G. Bremer, P. P. King, Owen Stanley, J. L. Stokes, F. P. Blackwood, J. C. Wickham, C. B. Yule, T. Lipson, and J. S. Roe, of the Royal Navy ; the published voyages of the French navigators, D'Entrecasteaux and Freycinet ; the reports of Lieutenant Jeffreys ; and the Remark books of Her Majesty's Ships ; all effected between the years 1793 and 1853. In the sixth edition, compiled in 1868, by Captain C. B. Yule, R.N., the results of various detached surveys, extending to 1865, under- taken by the Imperial and Colonial governments, and made by Captain H. M. Denham, Commanders Ross, Cox, and Hutchison, of the Royal Navy, and by the harbour authorities of the Colonies, were added. The seventh edition contained results from surveys to 1875, by Commander F. W. Sidney, Staff-Commanders F. Howard, H. J. Stanley, and J. T. Gowland, of the Royal Navy. In the eighth edition, prepared by Captain G. H. Inskip, R.N., results were incorporated from the surveys of Staff-Commanders H. J. Stanley, F. Howard, W. E. Archdeacon, and J. E. Coghlan, of the Royal Navy, together with information from oflBcial Colonial documents and the Remark books of H.M. Ships to 1884. The present edition, by Commander H. S. Penn, R.N., contains the latest available information to November 1896. As the coast from King George sound to Eucla road in the Great Australian bight, and also the west coast of Tasmania have not been surveyed in detail, this work must be considered incomplete, and doubtless there will be occasions for amendment throughout. By the publication of this book, all former editions as well as all Hydrographic Notices relating to former editions, and all Notices to Mariners, including No. 724 of 1896, are cancelled. W. J. L. W. Hydrographic Office, Admiralty, London, 17th December 1896. SO 11712—2500—8/94 Wt 9572 D & S. CONTEISTTS CHAPTER I. AUSTRALIA ; GENERAL REMARKS,— WESTERN AUSTRALIA ; PHYSICAL FEATURES ; GEOLOGY. — SOUTH AUSTRALIA, VICTORIA, TASMANIA, AND NEW SOUTH WALES ; GENERAL REMARKS; PHYSICAL FEATURES ; GEOLOGY ; PRODUCTS ; FISHES ; POPULATION ; TRADE ; COMMUNI- CATION ; COAL ; DOCKS ; pilots ; climate. — WINDS AND WEATHER ; STORM SIGNALS ; CURRENTS. — UNIFORM SYSTEMS OP BUOYAGE.— PILOT SIGNALS.— STANDARD TIME SYSTEMS.— PASSAGES .. Page CHAPTER II. ST. PAUL AND AMSTERDAM ISLANDS 50—57 CHAPTER III. AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. CAPE LEEUWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE ... 58 — 168 CHAPTER IV. AUSTRALIA. SOUTH COAST. SPENCER GULF... 169—279 CHAPTER V. AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. CAPE SPENCER TO CAPE OTWAY ; INCLUDING INVESTIGATOR STRAIT, THE GULF OF ST. VINCENT, AND KANGAROO ISLAND ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 280 — 411 CHAPTER VI. AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. WESTERN ENTRANCE OF BASS STRAIT, KING ISLAND, CAPE OTWAY TO PORT PHILLIP. AND PORT PHILLIP 412 — 500 CHAPTER VII. AUSTRALIA, SOUTH COAST. PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. BASS STRAIT 501—582 CHAPTER VIII. Page TASMANIA, NOBTH AND WE8T COASTS ... ... ... ... 583 — 665 CHAPTER IX. TASMANIA, SOUTH AND EAST COASTS ... ... ... ... fifiC— 756 CHAPTER X. AUSTRALIA, EAST COAST. CAPE HOWE TO PORT JACKSON ... ... 757—842 APPENDIX. PROVISION DEP6TS in the islands op the south INDIAN AND SOUTH PACIFIC OCEANS ... ... ... ... ... ... 843—845 INDEX ... ... ... ... ... ... 846—891 LIST OP SAILING DIRECTIONS PUBLISHED BY THE ADMIRALTY ... 893 — 898 ADMIRALTY AGENTS FOR THE SALE OF CHARTS ... ... ... 899 — 900 Vll SYSTEM OF ORTHOGRAPHY. As far as has been found possible with existing knowledge the native names in this book are spelt in accordance with the following system, which is being gradually introduced into all Admiralty Sailing Directions. 1. Where native names have been so long written in a form, which, though not in accordance with this system, has become familiar to English eyes from being so spelt in all charts and maps, they are retained, and no European names are changed from the correct orthography. 2. The true sound of the word as locally pronounecd is taken as the basis of the spelling. 3. An approximation of the sound is alone aimed at. A system which would attempt to represent the more delicate inflections of sound and accent would be so complicated as only to defeat itself. 4. The broad features of the system adopted are that vowels are pronounced as in Italian and consonants as in English, every letter heing pronounced. One accent only is used, the acute, to denote the syllable on which stress is laid. This is very important, as the sounds of many names are entirely altered by the misplacement of this " stress.'* 5. When two vowels come together, each one is sounded, though the result, when spoken quickly, is sometimes scarcely to be distin- guished from a single sound, as in ai^ au, ei. The amplification of the rules is given below. Information as to the proper spelling of native names, so as to produce the nearest approximation to the true sound, by this system, is invited. Letters. Pronunciation and Remarks. Examples. a ah, a as in father - - - - Java, Banana, Somala, Bari. e eh, e as in benefit; a as in fate Tel-el-Kebir, Oleleh, Yezo, Leviika, Peru. English e \ i as in ravine ; the sound of ee in beet. Thus, not Feejee, but Fiji, Hindi. o as in mote - - - - - Tokyo. S0 11712B— 1250— 8/94 Wt 9572 D & S. Till SYSTEM OF ORTHOGRAPHY. Letters^. ai au ao aw ei ch d f g h hw J k kh gh 1 m n P ph Pronunciation and Remarks. Examples. long u as in flute; the sound of oo in hoot. 00 or on should never be employed for this sound. Thus, not Zooloo or Zoiilou, but All vowels are shortened in sound by doubling the following consonant. Doubling of a vowel is only necessary where there is a distinct repetition of the single sound. English i as in ice - - . - ow as in how. Thus, not FoocJiow, but is slightly different from au - - - when followed by a consonant or at the end of a word, as in latv. is the sound of the two Italian vowels, but is frequently slurred over, when it is scarcely to be distinguished from ei/ in the English thei/, or ei in eight. English b, is always soft, but is so nearly the sound of s that it should be seldom used. If Celebes were not already recognised it Avould be written Selebes. is always soft as in church - - - English d. English /. Ph should not be used for the sound of /. Thus, not Haiphong^ but is always hard. (Soft g is given by^) is always pronounced when used, as in ivhat ; better rendered by hw than wh^ or h followed by a vowel. Thus, not Whang ho or Hoang ho, but English y. Dj should never be put for this sound. English k. It should always be put for the hard c. Thus, not Corea, but The Oriental guttural _ _ _ is another guttural, as in the Turkish As in English. has two separate sounds, the one hard as in the English word finger, the other as in singer. As these two sounds are rarely employed in the same locality, no attempt is made to distinguish between them. As in English. As in loophole , _ _ . Zulu, Sumatra. Yarra, Tanna, Mecca, Jidda, Bonny.* Nuuliia. Shanghai. Fuchau. Macao. Cawnpore. Beirut, Beilnl. Celebes. Chin-chin. Haifong, Nafa. Galapagos. Hwang ho ; Ngan hwi. Japan, Jinchuen. Korea. Khan. Dagh, Ghazi. Mokpho, Chemulpho. * The y is retained as a terminal in this word under rule 1 above. The word is given as a familiar exampls of the alteration in sound caused by the second consonant. SYSTEM OF ORTHOGRAPHY. IX Letters. Pronunciation and Remarks. Examples. th Stands both for its sound in thing, and as in this. The former is most common Bethlehem. q should never be employed ; the sound of qu in quiver is given as kw. When qu has the sound of ^, as in quoit, it should be given by k. Kwangtung. r As in English. s As in sin. t V "» }-As in English. X ------ Sawakin. y is always a consonant, as in yard, and there- fore should never be used as a terminal, i or e being substituted. Kikayu. Thus, not Mikinddny or Wady, but Mikindani, Wadi not Kwaly, but Kwale. z English 2 ' Zulu. Zll French y, or as s in treasure - Accents should not generally be used, but Muzhdaha. where there is a very decided emphatic Tongatabu, syllable or stress which affects the sound Galapagos, of the word, it should be marked by an Palawan, acute accent. Sarawak. XI INFORMATION RELATING TO CHARTS, SAILING DIRECTIONS, AND THE GENERAL NAVIGA- TION OF H.M. SHIPS. ^-f^rTTr-^ UNIVERSITY ON THE CORRECTION OF CHARTS, LIGHT LISTS, AND SAILING DIRECTIONS. There are three descriptions of publications as guides to navigation — the charts, the sailing directions, and the light lists — which are all affected by the continual changes and alterations that take place. Of these the charts should always be, so far as our knowledge permits, absolutely correct to date ; and the light lists should be noted for the recent alterations, though space will. not permit of full details being always inserted ; the sailing directions, however, cannot, from their nature, be so corrected, and in all cases where they differ from chartSn the charts must be taken as the guide. 1. Charts. — When issued to a ship on commissioning, the charts have received all necessary corrections to date. As sent from the Hydrographic Office they are, as a rule, fresh from the plates. They then receiAe such corrections by hand in the depots as are required, and are so issued to the ships. All small but important corrections tl^at can be made by hand are notified by Notices to Mariners, and should at once be placed on the charts to which they refer. Large corrections that cannot be conveniently thus made are put upon the plates, and fresh copies are issued to the ships to replace the others, which are directed to be destroyed to prevent the possibility of their being used in the navigation of the ship. 80 117120—1250—8/94 Wt 9572 D & S. Xll GENERAL NAVIGATION. The dates on which these large corrections are made are noted on the chart plates in the middle of the lower edge ; those of the smaller corrections at the left-hand lower corners. In all cases of quotations of charts, these dates of corrections- should be given, as well as the number of the chart (which will be found in the lower right-hand corner), in order that at the Admiralty it may be known what edition of the chart is referred to. 2. The Light Lists, annually published at the beginning of each year, are not corrected in the depots before issue, but appendices are issued every two months, giving the alterations that have taken place,, copies of which are put into the chart boxes. It is the duty of the navigating officer when he receives the set of charts to make notations in the light lists from these appendices,, and from the Notices to Mariners in the box ; and to keep them so corrected from time to time. The Light Lists should always be consulted as to the details of a light, as the description in the Sailing Directions may be obsolete, in consequence of changes made since publication. 3. TTie Sailing Directions are not corrected before issue, except occasionally for very important new rocks or dangers. Hydrographic Notices and Supplements referring to each volume are published from time to time. Supplements contain all the information received up to date since the publication of the volume to which they refer, and cancel all previous Hydrographic Notices. Hydrographic Notices contain all information up to date since the publication of the volume, or since the last Supplement or Hydrographic Notice, but endeavour is made to issue no more than on© of these affecting each volume, and, on the collection of fresh information, to include the former Notice in a Supplement. The existence of Supplements or Hydrographic Notices is to be noted, in the tabulated form placed for the purpose inside the cover of each volume, in cases when such notations have not been made before issue, and also on receipt of further Notices after commission. GENERAL NAVIGATION. xiii Notes should be made in the margin of the volume of sailing directions affected, as references to the Supplements or Hydrographic Notices when the latter are printed on both sides. To enable the books to be more conveniently corrected, however, such Supplements and Hydrographic Notices as are of moderate size are now being printed on one side only, and two copies are issued to each ship ; one to cut up, the slips being pasted in at the appropriate place ; the other to retain intact for reference. To make these notations or paste in these slips is one of the early duties of a navigating officer after drawing his box of charts and books, and similar notes are to be made from Notices to Mariners that may thereafter be received. It must, however, be thoroughly understood that sailing directions will never be correct in all details, except up to the date of the last Hydrographic Notice or Supj)lement, and that, as already stated, when differences exist, the chart, which should be corrected from the most recent information, should be taken as the guide ; for which purpose, for ordinary navigation, they are sufficient. THE USE OF CHARTS AS NAVIGATIONAL AIDS, AND GENERAL REMARKS RELATING TO PRACTICAL NAVIGATION. 1. Accuracy of a Chart. — The value of a chart must manifestly depend upon the accuracy of the survey on which it is based, and this becomes more important the larger is the scale of the chart. To estimate this, the date of the survey, which is always given in the title, is a good guide. Besides the changes that, in waters where sand or mud prevails, may have taken place since the date of the survey, the earlier surveys were mostly made under circumstances that precluded great accuracy of detail, and until a plan founded on such a survey is tested, it should^be regarded with caution. It may, indeed, be said that, except in well- frequented harbours and their approaches, no surveys yet made have been so minute in their exami- nation of the bottom as to make it certain that all dangers have been found. The fulness or scantiness of the soundings is another method of estimating the completeness of a chart. When the soundings are sparse or unevenly distributed, it may be taken for granted that the survey was not in great detail. XIV GENERAL NAVIGATION. Blank spaces among soundings mean that no soundings have been obtained in these spots. When the surrounding soundings are deep it may with fairness be assumed that in the blanks the water is also deep ; but when they are shallow, or it can be seen from the rest of the chart that reefs or banks are present, such blanks should be regarded with suspicion. This is especially the case in coral regions and off rocky coasts, and it should be remembered that in waters where rocks abound it is always possible that a survey, however complete and detailed, may have failed to find every small patch. A. wide berth should therefore be given to every rocky shore or patch, and this rule should be invariably followed, viz., that instead of considering* a coast to be clear unless it is shown to be foul, the contrary should be assumed. 2. Fathom Lines a Caution. — Except in plans of harbours that have been surveyed in detail, the five-fathom line on most Admiralty charts is to be considered as a caution or danger line against unnecessarily approaching the shore or bank within that line, on account of the possibility of the existence of undiscovered inequalities of the bottom, which nothing but an elaborate detailed survey could reveal. In general surveys of coasts or of little frequented anchor- ages, the necessities of navigation do not demand the great expendi- ture of time required for such a detailed survey. It is not contem- plated that ships will approach the shores in such localities without taking special precautions. The ten-fathom line is, on rocky shores, another warning, especially for ships of heavy draught. Charts where no fathom lines are marked must be especially regarded with caution, as it generally means that soundings were too scanty and the bottom too uneven to enable them to be drawn with accm-acy. Isolated soundings, shoaler than surrounding depths, should always be avoided, especially if ringed round, as there is no knowing how closely the spot may have been examined. 3. Chart on largest scale always to he used. — It sometimes happens that, from press of work, only the copper plate of the larger scale chart of a particular locality can at once receive any extensive GENERAL NAVIGATION. XV Te-arrangement of coastline or soundings. This is an additional reason, besides the obvious one of the greater detail shown on a larger scale chart, why this largest scale chart should always be used for navigating. 4. Caution in using small Scale Charts, — In approaching the land or dangerous banks, regard must always be had to the scale of the •chart used. A small error in laying down a position means only yards on a large scale chart, whereas on a small scale the same ramount of displacement means large fractions of a mile. This is particularly to be observed when coming to an anchor on a narrow iedge of convenient depth at some distance from the shore. For the same reason bearings to objects near should be used in preference to objects farther off, although the latter may be more prominent, as a small error in bearing or in laying it down on the chart has a greater effect in misplacing the position the longer the line to be drawn. 5. Distortion of Printed Chay^ts. — The paper on which charts are printed has to be damped. On drying distortion takes place, from the inequalities in the paper, which greatly varies with different paper and the amount of the original damping ; but it does not affect navigation. It must not, however, be expected that accurate series of -angles taken to different points will always exactly agree, when ^carefully plotted upon the chart, especially if the lines to objects be long. The larger the chart the greater the amount of this distortion, 6. Buoys. — It is manifestly impossible that any reliance can be placed on buoys always maintaining their exact position. Buoys should .therefore be regarded as warnings and not as infallible navigating marks, especially when in exposed positions ; and a ship should always, when possible, be navigated by bearings or angles of fixed objects on shore and not by buoys. 7. Lights. — Circles drawn on charts round a light are not intended to give information as to the distance at which it can be seen, but solely indicate, in the case of lights which do not show equally in all directions, the bearings between which the variation, or visibility, or obscuration of the light occurs. All the distances given in the Light Lists and on the charts for the visibility of lights are calculated for a height of an observer's eye of 15 feet. The table of distances visible due to height at end of each XVI GENERAL NAVIGATION. Light List, affords a means of ascertaining how much more or lessthe- light is visible should the height of the bridge be more or less. The- glare of a powerful light is often seen far beyond the limit of visibility of the actual rays of the light, but this must not be confounded with the true range. Again, refraction may often cause a light to be seen farther than under ordinary circumstances. When looking out for a light at night, the fact is often forgotten that from aloft the range of vision is much increased. By noting a star immediately over the light a very correct bearing may be after- wards obtained from the standard compass. The intrinsic power of a* light should always be considered when expecting to make it in thick weather. A weak light is easily obscured by haze, and no dependence can be placed on its being seen. The power of a light can be estimated by remarking its order, as- given in the Light Lists, and in some cases by noting how much its- visibility in clear weather falls short of the range due to the height at which it is placed. Thus, a light standing 200 feet above the sea and only recorded as- visible at 10 miles in clear weather, is manifestly of little brilliancy, as its height would permit it to be seen over 20 miles if of any power. {See table in Light List above-mentioned.) 8. Fog Signals. — Sound is conveyed in a very capricious way through the atmosphere. Apart from wind, large areas of silence have been found in different directions and at different distances- from the origin of a sound, even in clear weather. Ther(;fore too- much confidence should not be felt in hearing a fog signal. The apparatus, moreover, for sounding the signal often requires some time before* it is in readiness to act. A fog often creeps imper^ ceptibly towards the land, and is not observed by the people at a lighthouse until it is upon them ; whereas a ship may have been for many hours in it, and approaching the land. In such a case no- signal may be sounded. When sound has to travel against the windy it may be thrown upwards ; in such a case, a man aloft might hear it when it is inaudible on deck. Taken together, these facts should induce the utmost caution in closing the land in fogs. The lead is generally the only safe guide, 9. Tides and Tidal Streams. — In navigating coasts where the tidal* range is considerable, caution is always necessary. It should be remembered that there are indraughts to all bays and bights, although the general run of the stream may be parallel to the shore. GENERAL NAVIGATION. xvif The turn of the tidal stream off shore is seldom coincident with the time of high and low water on the shore. In open channels, the tidal stream ordinarily overruns the turn of the vertical movement of the tide by three hours, forming what is usually known as tide and half -tide, the effect of which is that at high and low water by the shore the stream is running at its greatest velocity. In crossing a bar or shallow flats, the table (B) at page 98 of the Tide^ Tables will be found of great assistance in calculating how much the water has risen or fallen at any hour of the tide. On coasts where there is much diurnal inequality in the tides, the amount of rise and fall can never be depended upon, and additional caution is necessary. It should also be remembered that at times the tide falls below the- level of low-water ordinary springs. This always occurs in temperate regions at the equinoxes, but wind may produce it at any time, and the amount varies with locality. When the moon's perigee coincides with the full or new moon the same effect is often produced. 10. Current Ai^rows on charts only show the most usual or the mean direction of a tidal stream or current. It must never be assumed that the direction of a stream will not vary from that indicated by the arrow. In the same manner, the rate of a stream constantly varies with circumstances, and the rate given on the chart is merely the mean of those found during the survey, possibly from very few observations. 11. Fixing Position, — The most accurate method of fixing a position relative to the shore is by angles between well-defined objects on the chart. All ships are now being supplied with a station pointer, and this method should be used whenever possible. Two things are, however, necessary to its successful employment. First, that the objects be well chosen ; and second, that the observer is skilful and rapid in his use of the sextant. For the former, reference can be had to the pamphlet on the use of the station pointer, which is in every chart box. The latter is only to be obtained by practice. It will readily be seen that in war time, when the compass may be knocked away, or rifle-fire may make it undesirable to expose the person more than necessary, a sextant offers great advantages, aa :XV111 GENERAL NAVIGATION. ■angles can be obtained from any position whence the objects are visible. It is this contingency that makes it especially desirable that ^all navigating officers should become expert in this method of fixing a ship's position. In many narrow waters also, where the objects may yet be at :Some distance, as in coral harbours or narrow passages among mud banks, navigation by sextant and station-pointer is invaluable, as a irue position can only be obtained by its means. A small error in either taking or plotting a bearing under such circumstances may put the ship ashore. It is not intended that the use of the compass to fix the ship should be given up ; there are many circumstances in which it may be use- fully employed, but errors more readily creep into a position so fixed. In all cases where great accuracy of position is desired, angles should invariably be used, such as the fixing of a rock or shoal, or of additions to a chart, as fresh soundings or new buildings. In all such cases angles should be taken to several objects, the more the better ; but five objects is a good number, as the four angles thus obtained not only prevent any errors, but they at once furnish a means of checking the accuracy of the chart itself. In the case of ordinary soundings, it is only necessary to take a third angle now :and then ; firstly, to check the general accuracy of the chart as above stated ; secondly, to make certain that the more important soundings, as at the end of a line, are correctly placed. Sometimes, when only two objects are visible, a compass bearing ;and sextant angle may be used with advantage. In passing near a point of land, or an island, the method of fixing by doubling the angle on the bow is invaluable. The ordinary form of it, the so-called "four-point bearing," when the bearing is taken four points on the bow, and on the beam, the distance from the object at the latter position being the distance run between the times of taking the two bearings, gives an excellent fix for a departure, but does not ensure safety, as the point, and probably the rocks off it, are abeam before the position is obtained. By taking the bearings of two points and four points on the bow, a Arery good position is obtained before the object is passed ; the distance of the latter at the second position being, as before, equal to the distance run in the interval, allowing for current. GENERAL NAVIGATION. xix A table of factors, by which to multiply the distance run, to obtain the distance of the object when any number of degrees between the- two bearings has been observed, is now supplied in all chart boxes. The use of a danger angle in passing outlying rocks with land' behind should also not be forgotten. In employing this method, however, caution is necessary, as should the chart be not accurate,. i.e., should the objects selected be not quite correctly placed, the angle taken off from it may not serve the purpose. It should not,, therefore, be employed when the survey is old or manifestly im- perfect. In fixing by the compass, it must always be remembered that two^ bearings only are liable to error. An absolute error may be made in either bearing observed ; errors may be made in applying the deviation ; or errors may creep in in laying them on to the chart.. For these reasons, a third or check bearing of some other object should be taken, especially when near the shore or dangers. The coincidence of these three lines will prevent any mistakes. In ships still fitted with the Admiralty standard compass, the tripod supplied to hold the lamp will be found of great service in fixing position at night, as by its aid a bearing can be as accurately taken as in daylight. With Thomson's compass bearings can also be- accumtely observed at night. The utility of this in connection with ascertaining the change of bearing of an approaching ship's light should not be forgotten. Amongst astronomical methods of fixing a ship's position, attention is drawn to the great utility of Sumner's method. A. Sumner line,, that is, a line drawn through the position (obtained by an assumed latitude and longitude by chronometer) at right angles to the bearing of the sun, as obtained from the azimuth tables, gives at times invaluable information, as the ship must bo somewhere on that line- provided the chronometer is correct. A deep cast at the same time may often serve to get an approximate position on the line. An early and very accurate position can be also obtained by Sumner's, method, by getting longitude by a bright star at daylight when the: horizon is well visible, and another longitude by the sun when a few degrees above the horizon, or by observing two or more stars at XX GENERAL NAVIGATION. twilight. The Sumner lines drawn through the two positions thus •obtained will, if the bearing of sun and star differ three points or more, give an excellent result. 12. Change of Va7Hation of the Compass. — The gradual change in the variatioD must not be forgotten in laying down positions by bear- ing on charts. The magnetic compasses placed on the charts for the purpose of facilitating plotting become in time slightly in error, and in some cases, such as with small scales, or when the lines are long, the displacement of position from neglect of this change may be of importance. The compasses are re-engraved when the error amounts to a quarter of a point, but the chart plates cannot be corrected more frequently from the impossibility of making alterations too often on •one spot in a copper plate. The geographical change in the variation is in some parts of the world sufficiently rapid to need consideration. For instance, in :approaching Halifax from Newfoundland the variation changes 10° in less than 500 miles. The variation chart should be consulted on this head. 13. Local Magnetic Disturbance of the Com^mss on hoard Ship. — The term " local magnetic disturbance " has reference only to the •effects on the compass of magnetic masses external to the ship in which it is placed. Observation shows that disturbance of the compass in a ship afloat is experienced only in a few places on the globe. Magnetic laws do not permit of the supposition that it is the visible land which causes such disturbance, because the effect of a magnetic force diminishes in such rapid proportion as the distance from it increases, that it would require a local centre of magnetic force of an amount absolutely unknown to affect a compass half a mile distant. Such deflections of the compass are due to magnetic minerals in the bed of the sea under the ship, and when the water is shallow, and the force strong, the compass may be temporarily deflected when passing over such a spot, but the area of disturbance will be small, unless there are many centres near together. The law which has hitherto been found to hold good as regards local magnetic disturbance is, that north of the magnetic equator the north end of the compass needle is attracted towards any centre i>f disturbance ; south of the magnetic equator it is repelled. » GENERAL NAVIGATION. XXi It is very desirable that whenever a ship passes over au area of local magnetic disturbance, the position should be fixed, and the facts reported as far as they can be ascertained. 14. Use of Oil f 07^ Modififing the Effect of Breaking Waves. — Many experiences of late years have shown that the utility of oil for this purpose is undoubted, and the application simple. The following may serve for the guidance of seamen, whose attention is called to the fact that a very small quantity of oil, skilfully applied, may prevent much damage both to ships (especially the smaller classes) and to boats, by modifying the action of breaking seas. The principal facts as to the use of oil are as follows : — 1. On free waves, ^.e., waves in deep water, the effect is gi^eatest. 2. In a surf, or waves breaking on a bar, where a mass of liquid is in actual motion in shallow water, the effect of the oil is uncertain ; IS nothing can prevent the larger waves from breaking under such <;ircumstances ; but even here it is of some service. 3. The heaviest and thickest oils are most effectual. Refined kerosene is of little use ; crude petroleum is serviceable when nothing else is obtainable ; but all animal and vegetable oils, such -as waste oil from the engines, have great effect. 4. A small quantity of oil suffices, if applied in such a manner as to ■spread to windward. 5. It is useful in a ship or boat, both when running, or lying to, or in wearing. 6. No experiences are related of its use when hoisting a boat up in a sea-way at sea, but it is highly probable that much time and injury to the boat would be saved by its application on such occasions. 7. In cold water, the oil, being thickened by the lower temperature, and not being able to spread freely, will have its effect much reduced. This will vary with the description of oil used. 8. The best method of application in a ship at sea appears to be : hanging over the side, in such a manner as to be in the water, small canvas bags, capable of holding from one to two gallons of oil, such bags being pricked with a sail needle to facilitate leakage of the oil. XXll GENERAL NAVIGATION. The position of these bags should vary with the circumstances^ Running before the wind they should be hung on either bow — - e.g.^ from the cathead— and allowed to tow in the water. With the wind on the quarter the effect seems to be less than ii> any other position, as the oil goes astern while the waves come up on- the quarter. Lying to, the weather bow and another position farther aft seem the best places from which to hang the bags, with a sufficient length, -of line to permit them to draw to windward, while the ship drifts. 9. Crossing a bar with a flood tide, oil poured overboard and allowed to float in ahead of the boat which would follow with a bag towiug astern, would appear to be the best plan. As before remarked,., under these circumstances the effect cannot be so much trusted. On a bar with the ebb tide it would seem to be useless to try oil^ for the purpose of entering. 10. For boarding a wreck, it is recommended to pour oil overboardl to windward of her before going alongside. The effect in this case must greatly depend upon the set of the current, and the circum- stances of the depth of water. 11. For a boat riding in bad weather from a sea anchor, it is- recommended to fasten the bag to an endless line rove through a block on the sea anchor, by which means the oil is diffused well ahead of the boat, and the bag can be readily hauled on board for refilling if necessary. IV THIS 'WORK THE BfiARZirGS ARE AXiXi MAGXTETZC, EXCEPT "WHERE MARKED AS TRUE. THE BEARXXrOS OF THE VZSZBZI.ZTT OF SECTORS OF liZGHTS ARE FROM SEAVTARD OR TOIXTARBS THE I.ZGHT. THE BZSTAirCES ARE EXPRESSED ZZT SEA MZXiES OF 60 TO A DEGREE OF ILATZTUDE. A CABXiE'S I.EirGTH ZS ASSUMED TO BE EQUAIi TO lOO FATHOMS. THE SOUXTDZirGS ARE REDUCED TO XiOW "WATER OF ORDZZTART SPRZITG TZDES. SI" ■.i?a-l"v.<^QC^ mss' ..cW/StV: /:*♦■■ ^T^SwS?^^?^^^'^^ For later information respecting: the Ligrlits whicli are described in this work, seamen should cons-ult the Admiralty List of Lights, Part VI. ; South Africa, East Indies, China, Japan, Australia, Tasmania, and New Zealand. This Light list is published early in the current year, corrected to the preceding 31st December. AUSTRALIA DIRECTORY, SOUTH AND EAST COASTS, BASS STEAIT, AND TASMANIA. CHAPTER I. GENERAL REMARKS. WESTERN AUSTRALIA ; PHYSICAL FEATURES ; GEOLOGY. — SOUTH AUSTRALIA, VICTORIA, TASMANIA, AND NEW SOUTH WALES ; GENERAL REMARKS ; PHYSICAL FEATURES ; GEOLOGY ; PRODUCTS ; FISHES ; POPULATION ; TRADE ; COMMUNICATION ; COAL ; DOCKS ; PILOTS ; CLIMATE. — WINDS AND WP^ATHER ; STORM SIGNALS.— CURRENTS. UNIFORM SYSTEMS OF BUOYAGE. — PILOT SIGNALS. STANDARD TIME SYSTEMS. — - PASSAGES. GENERAL REMARKS. — Australia,* the largest island in the world, is situated between the parallels of 10° and 39° South latitude and the meridians of 113° and 153° East longitude, its area being about three million square miles, an area nearly equal to that of the United States of America excluding Alaska. Washed on the west and south by the Indian ocean, and on the east by the Pacific, to the north it is separated by an intricate, narrow, and shallow coral strait from New Guinea. Its existence was probably altogether unknown to the ancients, and the exact time of its discovery is doubtful. In some Portuguese charts of the year 1531, vague references are made to a large extent of country south of the Moluccas. In 1606 Torres See charts, No. 2,759«, Australia, northern portion, and No. 2,759J, Australia, southern portion, scale . SO 11712 /rT-NTTTrJ^^ ^ UNIVERSITY 82 CAPE LEEUWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. III. Cave shoal, S. by E. one-third of a mile from Cave point : after a heavy gale, a swell was observed, but the least water found was 13 fathoms ; less water may however exist. Maude reef, the shoalest part of which is about 200 yards long in a north-east and south-west direction, and 150 yards wide ; there is a pinnacle rock near its north-west side with 8 feet water on it, 5 to 7 fathoms close around, and depths of 25 to 34 and 37 fathoms, rocky ground at the distance of a quarter of a mile. On Maude reef the sea breaks only with a heavy south-westerly swell. The west point of Breaksea island open of Bald head, bearing N, by E. I E. (N. 20° E.), leads eastward ; and West cape Howe open south of South-west islet leads southward of Maude reef. Vancouver rook, 15 feet high, 160 yards long, E.S.E. and W.N.W. and about 80 yards broad, is steep-to on all sides, and the swell which generally rolls in from the southward and westward breaks violently over it ; from Vancouver rock Peak head bears N.W. by W. ^ W. 2 miles and the extreme of Bald head N.E. J N. 2^ miles. There are 20 to 28 fathoms between this rock and the land. Dlreotlons. — The channel north of Eclipse islands is safe, but when working through stand no nearer Passage reefs than to bring Stony hill in line with Black head ; and with light winds do not approach the shore too closely, as there is always a heavy swell setting on it. North-west rock and the north side of the largest Eclipse island may be safely approached, care being taken to avoid the rock to the N.E. ; from the westward, after passing North-west rock, steer to pass on either side of Vancouver rock, and close round Bald head into King George sound. The south side of Eclipse island may be approached to half a mile, the. extreme of Bald head in line with Vancouver rock, bearing N.E. J N. (N. 44° E.), leads between Eclipse islands and Maude reef. The breakers on North-west rock and Vancouver rock can be seen from a considerable distance. In making King George sound from the south-west in thick weather, mount Gctrdner makes as a peak and has been mistaken for Peak head. See chart, Xo. 2.619. Chap. III.] KING GEORGE SOUND. 83 Caution at nigrllt. — Approaching King George sound at night this channel should not be used, neither should a vossel come into less than 45 fathoms until Breaksea light (rememfcering that the light can be seen over the low neck of land behind Bald head bearing from N. 48' E. to N. 45° E.) bears N.N.E. J E. (N. 25° E.), which will lead east of Maude reef and Vancouver rock. KING GEORGE SOUND* is the most convenient port on this part of the coast for refitting ; it is the port of call for the steamers of the Peninsular and Oriental, and Orient companies, as well as those of various inter-colonial companies. S applies.— /S'et^ page i^S. The entrance of King George sound lies between Bald head and Herald point, and is divided into three channels by Breaksea and Michaelmas islands. The sound is about 5 miles wide, north and south, and 5 miles deep, with depths of 10 to 5 fathoms, sand ; on the south side of the sound there is a deep 2 miles long north and south, and one mile broad, having 11 to 20 fathoms, with 7 to 10 fathoms close around. From Bald head the land trends to the north-west 1^ miles to Limestone head, thence nearly 3 miles westward to a low narrow neck of land which projects about 1^ miles to the north, forming with Mistaken island a bight named Frenchman bay. Then the coast trends nearly a mile in a north-west direction to Quarantine head, with a small cove between, formerly a whaling station. From this head a narrow strip of sandy hillocks extends about half a mile north to Possession point, which is 151 feet high, scantily covered with bush and forms the south side of the entrance to Princess Royal harbour. Northward of Possession point are several sunken rocks. Breaksea island, under 3 miles to the north-east of Bald head, is a rugged n.ass of rock 1^ miles long E. by S. J S. and W. by N. ^ N., and a quarter of a mile broad, its lieight is from 200 to 336 feei ; a small round islet 65 feet high lies close to iis eastern end, and at 20 yards from the south-east extreme of this islet a small rock 4 feet high. Near the eouth-west end of Breaksea island there is a small head 139 feet high, almost detached from the * This sound was entered by H.M.S. Discovery, Captain Vancouver, and named by liim. King George the Third's sound, in 1791. See chart, No. 2,619. SO 11712 F 2 84 CAPE LEEUWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. III. island. On the north-west side in a slight indentation a landing stage is erected, but owing to the constant swell washing round the island, it is necessary to anchor off and haul in to the stage. The light keeper on the approach of a boat will attend to lowering the ladder. LIGHT.* — An iron light tower, 43 feet high, rising from the centre of the keeper's dwelling, stands on the summit of Breaksea island, 1,200 yards from its eastern end. The lighthouse is painted white, and exhibits at an elevation of 884 feet above the sea a fixed white light. The light is visible in clear weather from a distance of 24 miles, between the bearings of N.E. J N. (N. 42° E.) and W. by S. I S. (S. 73^ W.) ; it is also visible over the low neck of land inside Bald head bearing between N.E. \ E. (N. 48° E.) and N.E. (N. 45° E.). From within the sound it is visible all round, except when obscured by Michaelmas island. This light is of the third order and it is reported that it is seldom seen from its proper distance. Sigrnal station. — Tliere is a signal station on this island and telephonic communication with the mainland and the telegraph system. Communication can be made by the commercial code. Belches foul ground, on which is a confused and dangerous sea during southerly gales, lies E.N.E. about 1] miles from Bald head, and consists of several patches. East shoal, with 5 fathoms on it and 20 fathoms at the distance of a cable, lies with Breaksea island lighthouse bearing N. J E., 2 miles ; and Bald head W. by S. \ S., distant 1| miles. It breaks heavily on this shoal in southerly gales. West shoal, with 9 fathoms on it and 20 fathoms around, lies with Breaksea island lighthouse N.N.E. ^ E., 2^ miles ; and Bald head S.W. by W. i W., distant l^o miles. King point light bearing N.W. by W. i W. (N. 62° W.) leads through the fairway into King George sound betweeri Breaksea island and Belches foul ground. The summit of a remarkable, dark, wooded hill, on the mainland, about 4^ miles N.W. by N. from mount Gardner, open east of the east extreme of Breaksea * A new lighthouse, which will exhibit a fxed white lig-ht of the first order, to replace the present light, is about to be constructed in proximity to the present lighthouse. See chart, No. 2,fil9. Chap. TII.] KING GEORGE SOUND. 85 island bearing N.N.E. ^ E. (N. 26^- E.) leads eastward ; the south-west extreme of Seal .islet touching the north-west extreme of Limestone head N.W. by W. J W. (N. 59° W.) leads south- westward ; Stony hill in sight south of Bald head, bearing West, leads southw^ard of Belches foul ground. A conspicuous notch on the east end of Michaelmas island kept in line with the round part of the west end of Breaksea island, N. by E. ^ E. (N. IT'^ E.), is a good mark for running between Belches foul ground and Bald head. From the westward be prepared for the vessel taking several heavy rolls on rounding Bald head. Micliaelmas island, separated from the north side of Breaksea island by a deep passage three-quarters of a mile wide, is covered with grass and stunted trees ; it is a mile long east and west, one- third of a mile broad, and from 300 to 500 feet high. From the north-west end of Michaelmas island a shoal extends north-west two-thirds of a mile with 3 fathoms 2 cables off and 4 to 5 fathoms beyond. A spit extends to the southward from half a mile west of Herald point and nearly joins the spit extending from Michaelmas island : there are depths of 5^ and 6 fathoms between them. Landing" may be effected on the north-west or in a small bight on the north-east side of the island. Micliaelmas reefs consist of several patches extending west- ward of Michaelmas island, the shoalest of which, witli 14 feet water, bears W. J S., distant one mile from the west end of Michaelmas island. In a S.W. by W. direction, one cable from this shoalest patch, is a patch of 4^ fathoms, and in an E.N.E. direction shoal patches extend for a distance of 4 cables. Buoy. — A red buoy, with staff and cage, is moored in 9J fathoms water, S.W. by W., distant one-third of a mile from the 14 feet rock. The passage between Michaelmas island and this buoy 'should not be used. This buoy is liable to shift its position, it has dragged several times in south-west gales. ^, is situated on the north side of Princess Royal harbour, between mount Clarence on the east and mount Melville on the west. The town jetty, which has a crane on it, is If miles inside the lighthouse. The population in 1892 was 2,858. See chart, No. 1,4 IH, Princess Royal harbour, scale w = 60 inches. 88 CAPE LBEUWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. III. There is a railway to Pei'th, and trains run dail3\ A jetty has been constructed close to the harbour-master's house, it is built of wood and is about 1,700 feet long. The depth of water at the head of the jetty is 27 feet ; vessels can lie alongside in a depth of 28 to 32 feet. The railway runs to the end of the jetty, so freight and passengers can be shipped directly on board the vessels lying there. There are landing steps on each side of the jetty at about the middle of its length. On either side of the jetty are buoys for \varping and securing vessels. There is telephonic communication from a shed at the jett}^ end with the town railway station. Trade. — The exports are, wool, sandal wood, pearls, jarrah timber, horses, sheep, fish, flour, gum, hides, leather, oil, ore, tallow, guano, gold, tortoiseshell. In 1894, vessels of a tonnage of 1,138,407 entered and cleared at Albany. Supplies of provisions, fresh meat, bread, and vegetables are plentiful. Water. — A water pipe is carried to the new jetty head, and water can also be procured from a pipe on the town jetty. Goal may always be obtained. Three coal hulks, fitted with steam winches, are kept replenished with New South Wales coal. In 1892j the average quantity kept in stock was 4,200 tons. Vessels can be coaled at the rate of 300 tons a day, or 500 tons a day and night. Climate. — The climate is one of the healthiest and most enjoy- able in the world, and the thermometer is seldom below 60° or above 85° Fahr.; this evenness of temperature at all seasons of the year is remarkable, and is particularly suitable for invalids. Pilots. — For the harbour, it is desirable to take a pilot, who Avill be found on the alert. The harbour -master's house, pilot station, and semaphore are on the north shore, just inside the entrance. On a vessel passing Breaksea island at night, a white light is usually burned at the lighthouse to show that the vessel's arrival has been reported to the pilots. LIGHTS. — A lighthouse, consisting of a small wooden square rower 17 feet high, with the keeper's dwelling attached, on the extremity of King point, the northern bluff of the entrance to i iSi'c chart, No, I,4:1n harbour, it has several islands and sunken reefs off it ; the clearest passage appears to be tolerably close inshore, and anchorage can be obtained should the wind fail. Tagon harbour is formed by a high bluff extending in a southerly direction about one mile. The anchorage is on the east side of this bluff in 6 fathoms, white sand, with the extreme of the bluff bearing S.S.E. Water can be obtained by digging at the back of the sand hills. CAPE ARID in lat. 34° 2' S., long. 123 1' E., is sterile, and rises to rather a peaked summit, 1,160 feet high, the land to the northward of it is low and forms a large sandy bight on each side ; that to the westward, which is 10 miles across, N.W. | W. and S.E. | E., and 5 miles deep, has not been distinctly traced, but it contains two small islands near its shore. Tagon harbour is in the north-west part of this bight. ^tf«chart, No. ],069. Chap. III.] CAPE ARID. 109 The cape is bordered by many small rocks and breakers, which extend nearly a mile from the coast, and 1^ miles off its western extremity there is a detached reef. MIDDLE ISLAND, south of cape Arid, is the largest of the Recherche archipelago ; the round hill on its north-west point is visible about 22 miles. The channel between cape Arid and Middle island is about 3 miles wide and is filled with small islands and reefs. Between these and the north-east point of Middle island there is a passage with 16 to 9 fathoms water, and from ]4 to 20 fathoms are found within a mile of the island on its east and south sides ; the west side has no bottom in 14 fathoms, at a quarter of a mile from its steep rocky coast. Goose isle bay. — Goose isle, which lies about one mile off the north side of Middle island, is small and very rocky, but bold to approach having deep water close to it, except on the south-east side. Goose isle bay is an indentation of the north side of Middle island, and consists of three sandy beaches separated from each other by rocky points ; between which and Goose isle, anchorage may be found on a sandy bottom. Ancliorage. — Between Goose isle and the middle sandy beach, where the anchorage is contracted, there is a shoal with 3 fathoms water on its deepest part ; to the westward of which the depth to anchor in is 7 fathoms, in line between the western sandy beach and the west end of Goose isle, with the north-west point of Middle island W.N.W. ; the bottom of sand and weeds will then be plainly visible. On the east side of the bar the anchorage is in 11 and 12 fathoms water between the north points of the two islands, at about three- quarters of a mile from each ; but the anchor does not hold so well here as in the former situation, occasioned perhaps by the increased depth of water ; there is also a small rock above water, lying a third of a mile from the east side of Goose isle, having 7 fathoms close to it. Supplies. — Among the tufts of wiry grass on the summit of Goose isle, and on most of the neighbouring isles, a large bird, the goose (Cereopsis Novae Hollandise), is to be found during the summer months, and may be easily taken. Firewood of small size may be See chart, No. 1,059. 110 CAPE LEEUWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. III. procured on Middle island, in sufficient quantity for the supply of two or three ships ; but no fresh water is to be had, except perhaps during the winter ; Captain Flinders found even the drainings from the hills too salt to be drinkable in the month of January. Cape Arid appears more likely to afford fresh water, which should be sought in the bight on either side, at the foot of the high land that forms it. During the summer, a great quantity of salt may be obtained from a small lake behind the eastern sandy beach in Goose isle bay. The tides are very weak and inconsiderable in this neighbour- hood, and are much influenced by the wind. Dangers N.W. of Middle island.— To the north-west of Middle island there are several small detached reefs and sunken rocks, the nearest of which lies N.W. ^ N. 1^ miles from the round hill on the north-west point, and does not always show itself. There is a clear passage nearly a mile wide between this and a small dry rock W. J S. from it, which has 28 fathoms water within half a mile of its north side. Two covered patches lie respectively 1^ and 2^ miles to the westward of the small dry rock. Low Flat isles are four in number, extending between 4 and 11 miles westward from Middle island, and surrounded with breakers ; there is also a small rocky island E.S.E. 6 miles from Middle island, with breakers off its west side, and a detached reef at one mile from its north-east point. Dougrlas isle lies S.W. by S. nearly 3 miles from the south-west point of Middle island, with a clear passage between them, and no bottom with 35 fathoms at a mile from the north side of the former island, which is low and rocky, and rises quickly to the summit of steep rocky cliffs that face to the southward and westward. A deep notch in the middle, over which the sea must break in rough weather, gives it the appearance of two isles near each other ; the eastern half being very rocky and uneven, and entirely without vegetation. THE SOUTH-EAST ISLES lie respectively S.E. j E. 23 miles, and S.E. ^ S. 26 miles from the summit of cape Arid ; the southern isle appears at a distance as two islands lying close together, is about 3 miles long N.E. by N. and S.W. by S., and is nearly divided in two See chiurt, No. 1,059. Chap. III.] ARCHIPELAGO OF THE RECHERCHE. Ill by a narrow strip of low land. Breakers lie W. by N. 2 miles from its north point. The northern isle, which is about one mile in extent, lies N. by E. J E. nearly 6 miles from the former ; it has not been approached very closely, but a reef was observed by Captain Flinders lying 4 or 5 miles from it in a N.E. by E. direction. D'Entrecasteaux's position of the southern of these islands is 6' of latitude more South, and T of longitude more East than the position assigned to it by Flinders and the Admiralty chart : there may be a third island, but Lieutenant P. P. King, H.M.S. Mermaid, made these islands from the S. by E. in 1818, and saw only two. POLLOCK REER— This dangerous reef was discovered in 1834, by Captain Pollock, in the barque Merope, who describes it as extend- ing 8 or 10 miles east and west, and being about 100 yards broad, with apparently about 2 feet water upon it. The western extremity, upon which alone the sea was breaking when the reef was seen at 7 a.m., is in lat. 34° 35' S., long. 123° 27' E., or S. i W. 14 miles from the largest of South-east isles. Captain C. R. D. Bethune, H.M.S. Conway, in 1838, placed it in lat. 34° 34' S., long. 123° 25' E., and observed : " I steered to make the Pollock reef, and at daylight was 2 miles from it ; it breaks heavily over a space of about a quarter of a mile ; at North 2 miles from it there are 40 fathoms water, sand." Lieutenant J. S. Roe, R.N., in 1856, when passing at a distance of 3^ miles to the southward of Pollock reef, under favourable cir- cumstances, ascertained the position of that part of the reef on which the sea breaks to be 14 miles S. ^ E. from the nearest part of South-east isles, the breakers extending one -third of a mile in an east and west direction, and one-third of a cable in width. CAPE PAS LEY forms a hill that is visible about 30 miles, and bears about E. ^ N., distant nearly 17 miles from the summit of cape Arid. The cairn on its summit is 345 feet above the sea ; there is a spring at its base near the shore. A low islet lies 3 miles southward of the cape, Avith some rocks and' breakers extending nearly 2 miles to the north-east from the islet, between which and the mainland are soundings in 28 to 34 fathoms, shoaling to the N.E. ; but in approaching the cape from Middle island a look-out must be kept for a small dry rock surrounded with breakers, S.W. ^ S. nearly 11 miles fromi the summit of this cape, and about the same distance from that -6fe* chart No. 1,059. 112 CAPE LEEUWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. III. of cape Arid ; the rock is steep-to having no bottom with 34 fathoms a mile from its north side. Between these two very projecting capes there is an extensive sandy bight open to the S.E,, which has not been explored, but appears capable of affording shelter from westerly and northerly winds. Malcolm point, N.E. i E. 14 miles from cape Pasley, is low and sandy, with a dry rock close to it, and a ledge of rocks extending from it upwards of 2 miles to the north-eastward. The COAST for 5 miles to the eastward of cape Pasley forms a slight indentation, fronted by some small islets. The depth decreases from 28 fathoms off cape Pasley to 10 fathoms outside a sunken rock, which lies S. by E. ^ E. 2^ miles from Malcolm point, and ui)on which the sea only breaks at times. From Malcolm point a low sandy coast curves round into a sandy bight and then trends north-east 11 miles to Dempster point. Israelite bay,* just to the northward of Dempster point, affords good anchorage in 3 fathoms water, inside a reef that extends in an E.S.E. direction from the shore. There are several shoals in Israelite bay, which can, however, be seen from aloft. Between the months of November 1878 and January 1879, the prevailing winds were from the eastward, with hazy weather. Telegrapll station. — There is a post and telegraph station at Israelite bay. Round isle is a conspicuous small rock, bearing N.E. by E. | E., distant 17 miles from the northern of the South-east isles. Two small rocks lie about half a mile off its north and north-west sides ; they are very conspicuous, and are the only dangers known to exist in its vicinity. THE EASTERN GROUP of the Recherche archipelago con- sists of eight low sterile rocky islets and a rock above water, lying from 11 to 18 miles off Dempster point, and scattered over an extent of 10 or 12 miles. The southernmost and largest island is 2 miles long, with some vegetation on its surface ; and there are hills visible 24 miles on its north and south ends. See chart, No. 1,059. * There is occasional communication with Israelite bay by steam vessels from Port Adelaide. Chap. III.] EASTERN GEO UP.— POINT CULVER. 113 A chain of sunken rocks appears to connect this island with the greater part of the group that extends 7 miles to the northward from it, leaving apparently clear channels between them and the remaining two islands to the westward ; one of these islands lies from Malcolm point E. by S. J S. 11 miles, and the other E. J N. 14 miles, with soundings of 20 to 23 fathoms between them and the mainland. Aspect. — A level bank of land commences behind cape Arid, where it bears the appearance of having once formed the seashore ; it continues thence with a remarkably uniform aspect, nearly E. by N. I N. 435 miles, to the head of the Great Australian bight, preserving an elevation of 400 to 600 feet above the level of the sea, and intercepting the mast-head view of the interior country, with the exception of the first 60 miles. Mount Rag'g'ed. — For 60 miles to the eastward of cape Arid some craggy, barren-looking hills, 15 to 30 miles in the interior, and of considerable elevation, are visible over the bank ; mount Ragged, 1,920 feet high, the most remarkable of them, bearing from Malcolm point N.W. by N., distant 25 miles. The COAST, from the point north-east 7 miles from Dempster point, trends to the north-eastward, and is low and sandy, without irregularity for 48 miles to a bluff, 285 feet in height, forming a bay 10 miles deep. Islets near the coast. — There are two small islets, with a reef extending more than a mile off their east side, lying nearly East 7 miles from Dempster point, and about 4 miles from the shore. There are soundings in 18 fathoms about a mile S.E. of the breakers, but the water quickly shoals to 6 fathoms at 3 miles N.E. of them, and the depths are afterwards variable between 12 and 8 fathoms at 4 or 5 miles from the shore to the northward. POINT CULVER.— The above mentioned bluff is the extremity, where the bank of level land behind the bluff approaches the coast, of a range of cliffs of moderate elevation, which commence about 5 miles to the north-westward of Malcolm point. From this bluff, cliffs, forming the coast, extend E. ^ N. 10 miles, to point Culver of Flinders, about 250 feet high, and then N.E. by E. ^ E., upwards of 70 miles, without any remarkable feature See chart, No. 1,069. SO 11712 114 CAPE LEBUWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. III. by which one part can be distingnished from another, except at 47 miles from point Culver, where a slight projection forms point Dover. These cliffs are about 500 feet high ; the upper third part of them is brown, and the lower portion almost white ; each small projection presents the appearance of a steep cape, as it opens out in sailing along ; but before the ship arrives abreast of it it is lost in the general uniformity of the coast. Point Dover and the bluff are exceptions to this general uniformity, but it is necessary to be near the land before even these are distinguishable. Sounding's. — Dry rock. — Soundings in 28 to 21 fathoms are found from 4 to 7 miles off the base of these cliffs, and no dangers lie near them, except a small dry rock, 16 miles from point Culver. There are 21 fathoms water a mile from the shore to the eastward of point Dover ; the soundings increase to 34 fathoms at 27 miles S.E. of it, on a bottom of brown sand mixed with coral and shells. Eyre sand-patcll andiorag^e lies about 155 miles north- eastward of Israelite bay. This place, at which there is a telegraph station, may be easily recognised by the white sand-patch, and by a peaked sand-hill covered with scrub 4^ miles inland, bearing N.E. from the anchorage. It is said that vessels with telegraph materials have ridden in safety at this anchorage during heavy weather from all quarters. There is communication by steamer four times a year. LOW SANDY POINT.— From point Dover the cliffs curve into a bight, 50 miles across to a low sandy point in lat. 32° 18' S., long. 126° 25' E., about 7 miles eastward of Eyre sand-patch, being the projecting extremity of some sand-hills, and only sprinkled v/ith vegetation. Here the soundings are 7 fathoms at 2 and 3 miles off the shore, increasing to 27 fathoms at 12 miles farther South. The COAST. — From Low Sandy point, the sandy coast, having a level summit, on which there are some shrubs and trees, extends with a slight curve to the southward turning gradually to E. by N. J N. nearly 99 miles, to another low point in lat. 32° 1' S., long. 128° 15' E. The soundings are between 7 and 15 fathoms at 3 to 8 miles off this coast, and are tolerably regular as far as the latter point, at 2 miles to the southward of which there are 5 fathoms, increasing to 25 fathoms at 27 miles in the same direction. iSee chart, No. 1,069, Chap, in.] POINT DOVER.— EUCLA ROADS. 115 From the low sandy point in long. 128° 15' E., the coast, which has low sand hills at the back, trends N.E. by E. | E., 35 miles, curving slightly outwards, to Eucla roads. A limestone ridge, from 250 to 350 feet high, is about 10 miles inland northward of the low sandy point, and gradually approaches the coast towards the vicinity of Eucla. This part of the coast should not be approached nearer than 5 miles. EUCLA ROADS, in lat. 31° 44' S., long. 128° 54' E., affords shelter at all times for vessels not exceeding 12 to 13 feet draught ; and is the only known anchorage between Eyre sand-patch and Fowler bay, a distance of upwards of 300 miles. The anchorage is about half a mile offshore in a depth of 2| to 3J fathoms, sand, and is protected by a rocky shoal lying to the southward and south-west, which has depths of one to 3 fathoms on it, with its outer edge, generally marked by breakers, 1^ miles from the beach. Beacons. — Two beacons, which are poles surmounted by casks, painted red, are situated on the sand hills close to the shore, 1| miles westward of the anchorage. These beacons are distant about 250 yards from each other, and nearly in line, bearing W. by S., lead to the anchorage (see Directions). A similar beacdn, painted black, is erected on the summit of a sand hill, 41 feet high, one mile east- north-east of the red beacons. The best landing is about half a mile east of this beacon, although usually there is good landing anywhere on the sandy beach near the beacons. Tlie coast near the red beacons is a low sand bank, covered with bushes, and not more than 15 feet high ; the sand hills rise gradually to the north-eastward, attaining a height of 50 feet 2J miles from the red beacons. A limestone ridge rises steeply from the Roe plains behind the coast sand bank, and is about 2^ miles inland north of the roads, and close to the coast 6 miles to the east-north-east of the red beacons. This ridge is from 270 to 350 feet high, cliffy near the summit, and covered with mallee scrub.* Delisser sands, near the shore, about 4 miles east-north-east of the red beacons, is a patch of bare sand stretching about 1^ miles See chart, No. 1,059. * Mallee scrub is composed of dwarf species of eucalyptus called mallee by the natives ; the eucalyptus dnmosa in South Australia and probably allied species in other parts of the country. The appearance is a dark brown mass of bushes as far as the eye can reach. 80 U712 H 2 116 CAPE LEEUWTN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. TIT. north-east and south-west, and rising to several conspicuous bare peaks, the highest of which, near the centre of the sands, is elevated 114 feet. A rocky bank, with depths of 2^ to 3 fathoms, nearly 2 miles in length, and on which the sea breaks with a heavy swell, lies parallel to the shore, and 1^ miles off, southward of Delisser sands. The channel northward of this bank has a least depth of ^^ fathoms. Eucla sands. — For upwards of one mile from the eastern end of Delisser sands the coast is a low sand bank, with the limestone ridge, here about 280 feet high, half a mile inland. Eucla sands, partly bare, then commence, extending back a quarter of a mile to the limestone ridge, which rises above them. WILSON BLUFF, a nearly perpendicular cliff, 296 feet high, is remarkable as being the western extreme of the long line of cliff, which commences at the head of the Great Australian bight. The bluff is dark, but immediately eastward of it the lower part of the cliff is white, and continues so for about 2^ miles, or to the western extreme of Murdeyerrah sands. The summit of these sands is a bare peak 122 feet high, 5 miles eastward of Wilson bluff. Murdeyerrah sands are on the slope of scrub-covered hills, which rise to an eleva- tion of 330 feet, northward of the sands. The boundary between South and Western Australia meets the coast rather more than one mile west of Wilscm bluff. DIRECTIONS FOR EUCLA ROADS AND ANCHOR- AGE. — Wilson bluff is the best landfall to make on approaching Eucla, and having identified it, and the bare sand peaks of Delisser sand, a stranger may proceed to the anchorage without difficulty. From a position about one mile south of Wilson bluff, steer along- shore W. by S., not shoaling the water to less than 4 fathoms, and keeping a look out for the north-eastern extreme of the rocky bank southward of Delisser sands; when the highest peak of those sands bears N.W. (which bearing leads close eastward of the eastern extreme of the rocky bank), bring the summit of Wilson bluff to bear N.E.by E. J E., and alter course to S.W. by W. i W., keeping Wilson bluff astern, until the western red beacon is open only a little northward of the eastern red beacon, bearing W. by S. Then steer for the beacons on this bearing, until the black beacon See chart, No. 1,059, Chap. III.] EUCLA ROADS. 117 bears N.W. by W., when anclior in 3 fathoms sand, half a mile off shore, and south of the landing place. A small vessel may anchor in 2J fathoms, 3 cables north-east of this position. There is a passage into Eucla roads, with a depth of 3| fathoms, west of the rocky bank south of Delisser sands ; but as the sea breaks across in bad weather, and the mark which leads through, Moopina head station (on the slope of the limestone ridge inland), in line with the 50 feet sand hill, 1^ miles north-eastward of the black beacon, bearing N.W, by N., could not be easily identified by a stranger, it should not be attempted without some local knowledge. The 10-fathoms line is about 2^ miles offshore near Eucla roads.* Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Eucla roads at llh. 5m. ; springs rise 5 feet. Telegraph.. — The combined telegraph station of the South and Western Australian Governments, on the overland line between Perth and Adelaide, is situated half -a -mile north of the landing place at Eucla roads. This station is connected with the universal telegraph system- Its position is in lat. 31° 42' 48" S., long. 128° 53' 31" E., by telegraphic signals from Adelaide (Adelaide Observatory being in long. 138° 35' 6" E.). Except the telegraph station, there was no settlement at Eucla in 1880. There is monthly mail communication overland with Adelaide, and also with Albany by schooner. Meteorological observations. — In 1890, the mean height of the barometer at Eucla was 30*018 inches, the maximum 30*47 inches, the minimum 29*36 inches, and the mean temperature 63° Fahr., the maximum being 115° in January and the minimum 34° in August. The rainfall in the year was 7*5 inches ; the mean annual rainfall during 14 years being 9*9 inches, the maximum fall 13*78 inches in 1877 and the least 6*37 inches in 1878. Supplies. — Sheep may possibly be obtained from Moopina station ; and water from Chinialta well, half-a-mile east of the landing place ; but no other supplies could be got at Eucla in 1880. The COAST from Wilson bluff trends E. | N. for 63 miles in nearly a straight line ; then E. J S. 26 miles ; and after that, * A jetty has been constructed at Eucla. See chart, No. 1,059. 118 CAPE LEEUWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. III. E. by N. ^ N. 15 miles, to the point situated 4 miles south-west of the head of the Great Australian bight. Eastward of Murdeyerrah sand, already described, the coast continues steep, dark, and about 300 feet high, to longitude 129° 19' E., or 15 miles eastward of Wilson bluff ; a perpendicular cliff, with a white substratum, then begins, and extends without any prominent recognisable feature to the head of the Great Australian bight. The Nullabor plateau is reported to rise at the back of this cliff in a slope of about 10 feet per mile, so that the elevation is not sufficient for any land to be visible beyond the cliff from the sea. The western part of the cliff is about 325 feet high, midway between Eucla and the head of the Great Australian bight the height is about 270 feet, and it gradually decreases in height to the eastward, being elevated from 200 to 170 feet for the last 30 miles. There are no dangers off this coast, the depth being generally between 20 and 30 fathoms sand, to within 2 miles of the cliff, with little alteration in the soundings for a distance of 20 miles off shore. There is a depth of only 35 fathoms 50 miles south of the coast midway between Eucla and the bight. HEAD OF THE GREAT AUSTRALIAN BIGHT.— Twin rocks, lying near the shore off the junction of the cliff and sand at the head of the bight, are situated in about lat. 31° 29' 45" S., long. 131° 8' 15" E. Conspicuous bare sand-hills stretch inland upwards of a mile from the head of the bight, rising to an elevation of 186 feet. There is usually a heavy surf on the beach here, even in very fine weather, which breaks in 3 fathoms, at a distance of about half-a- mile off-shore and renders landing impracticable, or at any rate very hazardous. The general direction of the south coast of Australia, which from King George sound has been east-north-east, now changes to the south-east, and is fully exposed to the heavy south-westerly swell, which constantly rolls in, even during the season of south- easterly winds. CAPE ADIEU.— S.E. by E. i E., 60 miles from the head of the bight, is a dark cliffy point, 120 feet high. The highest land on this part of the coast is a dark wooded hill, elevated 565 feet, situated N. by E. 6^ miles from cape Adieu. The coast between the head of the Great Bight and cape Adieu curves slightly inwards, and consists of a series of low, dark, rocky points and sandy beaches, fronted by rocks and foul ground, on which Set; charts, No. 1,059 and No. 1,061, cape Catastrophe to the Great Australian bight, scale m = 01 5 inch. Chap. III.] HEAD OF GREAT AUSTRALIAN BIGHT.— NUYTS REEFS. 119 the swell breaks, to a general distance of half-a-mile off-shore. Inland, dark hills, from about 250 to 350 feet in height, are visible, broken here and there by conspicuous bare sand-hills or patches, the positions of which are marked on the chart. Sunken rocks lie off cape Adieu, the outer ones near being situated 3 miles west, and 2 miles south-south-west, respectively from that cape. Sunken reef. — A sunken reef, about half-a-mile in extent, north and south, and on which the sea breaks with a heavy swell, lies with its south extreme 2 miles off shore, 17 miles north-west of cape Adieu. There are three round-topped hills, about 250 feet high, at the back of the beach north of this reef. The depth is 14 fathoms midway between the reef and the shore, and upwards of 20 fathoms close to the southward. D'Entrecasteaux reef, the centre of which is 11^ miles west of cape Adieu, and the south extreme nearly 10 miles off shore, is in two parts ; the north part is about 2 miles square, and all under water, with the exception of some rocks near the north- east extreme, which are awash at low water ; the south part, which lies upwards of one mile south of the south side of the north part of the reefs, is about half-a-mile in extent, north and south, and breaks only with a heavy swell. The edges of the north part of D'Entrecasteaux reef are always marked by breakers. There are 22 to 26 fathoms between this reef and the bare sand on the shore to the north-eastward, and 33 to 36 fathoms one mile from its southern side. The soundings are not a good guide in approaching this part of the coast, and it should be given a wide berth at night. NUYTS REEFS extend 9 miles to the southward from cape Adieu, and consist of several bare rocks above water, and sunken rocks. The highest rock, which is 43 feet high, lies 7^ miles south of cape Adieu, and consists of two islets above water, connected by rocks which cover at high water ; these islets appear steep-to, except off the north point where the sea breaks nearly 2 cables to the northward of some rocky heads which lie off that point. There are three reefs 1^ miles to the southward of the highest rock, the centre of the north-eastern one is awash at high water and the others are always covered. The two southern reefs do not always break, but with a westerly gale and high swell, the breakers on them can be See charts, No. 1,059 and No. 1,061. 120 CAPE LBEUWTN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. III. seen before the islets are sighted. Two bare rocks with rocky heads between and lying close together, the north-eastern one being 30 feet high, bear E.N.E. 1^ miles from the highest rock. The northern of the Nuyts reefs, 20 feet high, is N.N.E. 5 miles from the highest rock, with a sunken reef extending nearly one mile to the southward of it. There are depths of 12 to 28 fathoms between this reef and the southern islets of Nuyts reefs, and 27 to 38 fathoms close southward of the southern sunken reefs. Cape Nuyts, 10 miles eastward of cape Adieu, is a rocky cliff with sand-hills 192 feet high immediately above. A hill, 397 feet high, is 3 miles north-westward of cape Nuyts, and is the western summit of three of nearly equal height, the slopes of which are covered with dense mallee scrub, and descend to the coast between cape Nuyts and cape Adieu. Between these capes the coast consists of low, dark cliffs with some sand-hills immediately above them here and there, fronted by foul ground, the outer rocks of which are one mile offshore, and break only with a heavy swell. A sunken rock, which seldom breaks, lies one mile south-east of cape Nuyts ; there are 23 fathoms a quarter of a mile south of this rock. Scott point, 2^ miles E.N.E. from cape Nuyts, is 161 feet high, faced by steep cliffs ; the point slopes down to the swamps behind, and appears like an island when seen from the south-west or south- east. An isolated rock, 60 feet high, lies eastward of the north-east side of cape Nuyts ; between it and Scott point the coast is sandy, and fronted by rocks to a distance of 3 cables from the beach. Scott bay, eastward of Scott point, is full of rocks and breakers ; there is an extensive area of bare sand at the back of this bay, the summit of which is a peak 123 feet high. FOWLER POINT, 7 miles eastward of cape Nuyts, is faced by dark cliffs, and appears from seaward flat on the top. On its south- west side, sand-hills, sparsely covered with vegetation, are slightly elevated above the summit of the cliff ; its north-east side is lower, and slopes gently upwards, the hills in that direction being covered with coarse grass. The south-east extreme of the point is 158 feet high, and there are depths of 10 fathoms 3 cables from that part of the point, off which rocks extend 1^ cables to the See chart, No. 1,061, with plan of port Eyre, scale m = l-2 inches. Chap. III.] CAPE NUYTS. — POUT EYRE. I2l south-eastward. Three rocky banks, with depths of 9 to 10 fathoms over them, are situated from one-half to 1^ miles to the south-eastw^ard of Fowler point ; the sea breaks on these banks in very high rollers with the heavy swell accompanying and following a south-westerly gale. FOWLEJR BAY/"* PORT EYRE, is in the bight north-west of Fowler point and affords anchorage with all winds, as the sea raised outside by a south-east wind decreases quickly in height inside the 5-fathom line to the northward of Fowler point. A rock awash at low water lies 2 cables offshore, one mile north-west of the pitch of Fowler point ; and in the south-western part of port Eyre, a flat, with depths less than one fathom, extends 4 cables from the beach. In the western part of the port, the bare sand-hills, which are at the back of Scott bay, come down to the beach ; their north end is steep and conspicuous, with the telegraph and police buildings near it ; to the northward, the land is low and swampy, with a sand- bank behind the beach, and a dark scrub-covered range, 180 to 217 feet high, one to 2 miles inland. Nantabi sand, nearly 8 miles north-eastward of Fowler point, and 136 feet high, is a conspicuous mark on the north shore of Fowler bay. There is often a large camp of aborigines on the beach at port Eyre, the place being a Government depot for the distribution of rations and blankets to them. DIRECTIONS AND ANCHORAGE. — From the south- east the aspect of Fowler point is somewhat similar to that of cape Nuyts and Scott point, but as the land recedes so much to the north- ward of Fowler point, it is not likely to be mistaken for either of those points, except at night with a moderate amount of light, and hazy weather, when the bare sand hills eastward of Scott point especially are difficult to distinguish, and at a distance of a few miles it may appear as if there were a deep bay in that direction. Vessels should not attempt to enter port Eyre at night, unless Fowler point has been sighted before dark, or if there is no doubt as to their position. In fine weather Fowler point may be rounded at a distance of one mile, but, with a very heavy swell or westerly gale, vessels should keep 2 miles from the point until it bears south of W.S.W., * So named by Flinders after the first lieutenant of the Investigator. See chart. No. 1,061. 1:^2 CAPE LBEUWIN TO CAPE CATASTB,OPHE. [Chap. 111. and then steer to the north-west, taking care to avoid the rock awash one mile north-west of Fowler point ; when the northern steep fall of the sand-hills near the telegraph office bears W. by N.. steer for it on that bearing ; large vessels anchor in 5 to 5 J fathoms when Fowler point bears S. by E. | E., and other vessels according to draught further in. Small vessels able to anchor inside the 3-fathom line only require to allow a depth of about 3 feet more than their draught for safe anchorage ; but outside the 3-fathom line about one fathom should be allowed for the increased height of the sea with a strong south-easterly wind. The bottom in the anchorage is sand and weed, and good holding ground. Landingr place. — The best landing place is opposite the south building of the settlement ; and there is usually good landing any- where on the beach for half a mile to the southward of the telegraph office. Half-way from the telegraph office to Nantabi sand a heavy surf commences, and increases to the eastward. A jetty has recently been constructed in Fowler bay. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in port Eyre at noon ; springs rise 5^ feet. Telegraph oflace and commiinication.— The telegraph office is in lat. 31° 59' 53" S., long. 132'^ 26' 39" E., Snapper point (Adelaide) being in long. 138° 31' 0" E. It has communication with the universal telegraph system. There is also communication by fortnightly steamer, or overland fortnightly to Port Lincoln thence steamer, to Port Adelaide. YAT AL A REEF lies S. by E. 37| miles from Fowler point ; the reef is a rock of small extent, with probably a depth of less than one fathom over it ; on this part the swell always breaks ; at a distance of 2 cables to the southward is a rock with a greater depth on it, which only breaks occasionally. This reef is on the east side of a bank with less than 30 fathoms water, the north extreme of the bank is 1:J^ miles from the reef, the south extreme nearly 2 miles, the west side upwards of one mile, and the east side less than half a mile off. Outside the bank for a distance of 5 miles from the reef, the soundings are from 34 to 38 fathoms, and do not vary sufficiently to give good warning of too close an approach to the reef. The position of this dangerous reef is in lat. 32° 39' S., long. 132° 35' E., and it should not be approached at night, or in hazy weather. See chart, No. 1,061. Chap, III.] YATALA HEEF.— SINCLAIR POINT. 12^ Clare bay, a landing place for small craft, is about one mile westward of Eyre bluff ; there is a mooring buoy in 4^ fathoms in its western bight, with a swinging space of about 300 feet, and a depth of 15 feet at low water springs round it. Vessels should be made fast to the buoy. EYRE BLUFF, E.N.E. 13 miles from Fowler point, is a steep rocky islet, about 120 feet high, close to the coast, with which it is connected by rocks which dry at low water. Eastward of Nantabi sand the sandy coast continues for about 4 miles, it then changes to red clifCs, with rocks and sandy beaches at their base, and so continues for upwards of 5 miles, to one mile eastward of Eyre bluff. About 4 miles north of Nantabi sand a dark wooded range commences, and extends nearly to Sinclair point ; behind Nantabi sand and Eyre bluff the summits of this range are about 400 feet in height. A patch of foul ground, with a depth of 10 fathoms, lies S.S.W. 4J miles from Eyre bluff ; generally the depth is 20 fathoms 2^ miles off-shore, from Nantabi sand to Sinclair point. SINCLAIR POINT, S.E. by E. J E., 16 miles from Eyre bluff, projects nearly 2 miles from the general line of coast ; its summit is 154 feet high. The south extreme of this point is a smooth granite slope, about half way up which is a bare limestone cap, rising 5 or 6 feet perpendicularly, the land above being covered with coarse grass. Landing may be affected in fine weather in a small bay on the east side of Sinclair point, north-east of the summit ; but there is no anchorage under the point. The coast from one mile eastward of Eyre bluff is a sandy beach for upwards of 6 miles, with some bare sand hills at the back of the western part ; there is then a succession of low rocky points, with sandy bays between, and scrub covered rises behind, for 6 miles ; after which a sandy beach (inland from this, bare sands, the summit of which, Chadinga hill, is 172 feet high, stretch 2 miles), extends 2 miles to the north-west part of Sinclair point. There are heavy breakers on the rocks off this part of the coast, and a patch of 10 fathoms, rock, 4 miles W.N.W. from Sinclair point. Sinclair island and rocks.— Sinclair island, 2i miles south of Sinclair point, is 53 feet high, and composed of granite. A rock, 5 feet high, with a breaker close to its north-east side, lies Nearly midway between Sinclair island and Sinclair point. Pudding rock, 2 miles south-east of Sinclair point, is a bare granite rock. See chart, No. 1,061. 124 CAPE LEETTWIN T^O CAPE CATASTtlOPHE. [Chap. 111. 19 feet high. Midway between Pudding rock and Sinclair point there is a reef awash at low water, extending a quarter of a mile north-west and south-east ; sunken rocks extend 4 cables south- west from this reef, and there is a sunken rock between the reef and Pudding rock. The depth 'between the above reef and Sinclair point is 7 fathoms. BELL POINT is nearly 10 miles south-eastward of Sinclair point, the coast between a sandy beach nearly straight, with sand hills above from 80 to 120 feet high. Bell point projects 2^ miles south-south-west from the sandy coast. Its summit, 179 feet high, is covered with coarse grass, and the south extreme is a smooth low granite point, with rocks, that cover at high water, stretching off nearly 2 cables. A dark rock, a quarter of a mile long, and 15 feet high, lies 1} miles south-south-west of Bell point ; it is surrounded, to the distance of 2 to 3 cables from it, by sunken rocks, on which the sea breaks heavily. Foul ground extends more than a mile south-south-west of this rock ; the outer danger, close to which is a depth of 17 fathoms, breaks only with a heavy sea and swell. DIRECTIONS and ANCHORAGE —There is anchorage for small vessels, drawing less than 12 feet, at all seasons, in a depth of 2 to 3 fathoms, sand, in the bight on the north-east side of Bell point. A conspicuous bare sand peak, 115 feet high, and 2^ miles north-north-east of Bell point summit, is situated on the north- east side of this bight ; steer for this peak when it bears North, and about 5 miles distant, to pass between the reefs off Bell point and Flinders rock. When the shed near the beach, on the low neck of the northern part of Bell point, bears W. by N., alter course towards it ; and anchor a vessel of about 10 feet draught in 2^ fathoms, with the east extreme of Bell point bearing S. ^ W., and the shed on the beach W. by N. Coasters occasionally load wool at this anchorage. Flinders rock, E. J S. 4 miles from the south extreme of Bell point, and N.N.W. ^ W. from the highest Purdie island, has a depth of about 3 fathoms on it, with 7 to 10 fathoms half a mile off all round. This rock, when there is a moderate swell, breaks occasionally. PURDIE ISLANDS, ^ miles south-eastward of Bell point, consist of one large islet, and several rocks above and below water. The large islet is 83 feet high, and of granite formation. A small iSee cliart, No. 1,061. Chap. Til.] BELL POINT. — PURDIE ISLANDS. 125 rock, about 10 feet high, lies 4 cables south of it ; sunken rocks extend 3 cables north, and a chain of rocks, 5 to 15 feet high, and breakers, stretch 1^ miles to the north-eastward. The eastern rock of the group is a round isolated lump, about 10 feet high, situated nearly 2|- miles east of the large islet. The depth is upwards of 10 fathoms close to all the islets and rocks of this group. ROCKY POINT, 6i miles eastward of Bell point, is low, with dark grass-covered hills behind, about 100 feet high. There is a rock awash at high water 4 cables west of the point, on the south and east sides of which the rocks do not extend more than one cable. The coast from Bell point to Rocky point is a sandy beach with bare sand hills behind, the most conspicuous of which are the sand peak already mentioned near Bell point, and another bare sand- hill, 120 feet high, midway between Bell and Rocky points. There are 5 to 6 fathoms three-quarters of a mile from the beach. JAMES POINT, 8J miles eastward of Rocky point, has three dark rises, about 140 feet high, north-westward of it, with two bare sandhills, the eastern one elevated 155 feet, close to the westward of them. From Rocky point to these sand hills the coast is low and consists of rocky points and low cliffs, with sandy beaches between, and rocks extending about a quarter of a mile offshore. Abreast the western sandhill, 2^ miles westward of James point, there is a rock on which the sea breaks, 6 cables from the beach. Lounds island, 5^ miles S.S.W. ^ W. from James point, and 7 miles East of the highest Purdie island, is 67 feet high, and steep-to all round. Lounds reef lies N. by W. i W. 2xV miles from Lounds island, and only breaks occasionally. There are depths of 10 to 16 fathoms, one mile off this reef. PETER POINT, 3J miles E. ^ S. of James point, and the point at the western entrance of Denial bay, has a grassy summit, 110 feet high, which slopes down gradually to the point. A rock, with a depth of 3 fathoms on it, lies S.W. by S. 7 cables from Peter point, and only breaks at times. Between James point and Peter point the coast forms a sandy bay, the most conspicuous object in which is Cowie Yalkeena, a bare sand-hill, 120 feet high. NUYTS ARCHIPELAGO comprises a number of islands and rocks, stretching 40 miles south-westward from Denial and Smoky See chart, No. 1,061, with plan of Denial and Smoky bays, scale w = 0'5 inch. 126 CAPE LEEUWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. III. bays ; and was the eastern part of Australia (New Holland) discovered by the navigator Peter Nuyts in 1627. The only anchorages among the outer islands are north of St. Francis island and the Franklin islands, but the latter is only available in the summer months with S.E. winds. These islands are breeding places of the cape Barren goose (cereopsis) ; mutton birds (sooty petrels) burrow in the sandy soil, their holes being often inhabited by snakes, of which the black ones are venomous, the coloured ones, known as carpet snakes, killing their prey by constriction. There were no inhabitants on any of the islands of Nuyts archipelago in 1878, and the sheep stations at the back of Denial and Smoky bays are not close to the coast. Sheep are sometimes taken across to St. Peter island from the mainland. ST. FRANCIS ISLES, the south-western group of Nuyts archipelago, consist of 11 uninhabited islands, of which the largest is St. Francis island ; this island is upwards of 2 miles across, east and west, and north and south, and is nearly covered with a low .green bush ; the round summit on the east side of the island is 264 feet high, and the highest part of the west side is 227 feet. The sea breaks heavily on the exposed west, south, and east sides of the island, which are faced by steep cliffs. Petrel bay, on the north side, has a sandy beach, with a depth of 3 fathoms one cable off, and close beyond 7 to 10 fathoms, over sand and weed. A rock, 58 feet high, with a breaker one cable south of it, lies one cable off the south-east point of St. Francis island, and sunken rocks extend 4 cables south of the soiith point ; the north and east sides, outside Petrel bay, are steep-to and free from danger. There is no water on St. Francis island, but a little might be obtained by digging. Anchoragre. — There is anchorage in Petrel bay, except perhaps with strong north-easterly and northerly winds, but a vessel compelled to seek shelter there would probably ride out safely any wind from those directions, if she were anchored far enough from the beach to be able to veer cable ; N.E. winds seldom blow with sufficient force to raise a heavy sea at the distance this bay is from the main land. "With westerly winds the best anchorage in Petrel bay is in about 9 fathoms, in the western part of the bay, about 4 cables off-shore, and the west point of the bay bearing N.W. by N. ; small vessels may bring the point to bear more northerly, and the west end of See chart, No. 1,061. Chap. III.] ST. FRANCIS ISLES. 127 the sandy beach there, W. by S. In the summer, with S.E. winds, the best anchorage is at the eastern end of the bay, in 9 fathoms, sand and weed, with the west side of Egg island just open of the west side of Smooth island, N.N.E., and the north end of the east point of Petrel bay. East. Smooth, island, nearly one mile north of the east point of Petrel bay, is a smooth, round island, 115 feet high, and steep-to. "Egg island, three-quarters of a mile north of Smooth island, is 134 feet high, with a rounded summit, steep on the east side, and sloping on the west. It is steep-to, with the exception of a breaking rock, one cable from its north point. Dogr island, 1^ miles north-east of the east point of Petrel bay, is 6 cables long north and south, and surrounded by light coloured cliffs, which on the east side rise to the summit, 199 feet above high water. There are a few detached boulders on the north and east sides of the island, and rocks stretch upwards of one cable from its east and north-east points, otherwise it is steep-to. The north side of the island falls steeply to the sea, while the south end is a gentle slope. Freeling island, half a mile north-east of Dog island, is 116 feet high, and dark in appearance, with a rounded summit. Two rocks, awash at high water, lie 1^ cables north of the north point of Freeling island ; elsewhere it is steep-to. West island, 98 feet high, is nearly one mile W.S.W. from the west point of St. Francis island. There are a number of loose boulders on the slope of its west side, which have been washed there by heavy seas. Breakers extend 4 cables north of West island, and for half a mile to the southward there are high rollers which break at times. A long bare rocky islet, about 25 feet high, lies between West island and St. Francis island. The passage on either side of this rock should not be attempted. Masillon island, 2 miles south of St. Francis isle, is 251 feet high, with three summits of nearly equal height. Its coast is very steep, and usually it is very difficult to effect a landing. There is a deep bight on the west side, but there is no anchorage in it. ^ chaxt, No. 1,061, /^^^,y^^5?X university) 128 CAPE LEEUWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. III. With the exception of a few detached boulders near the shore, the island is steep-to. Fenelon island, three-quarters of a mile south of Masillon island, is also very steep and apparently inaccessible ; it has only one summit, 189 feet in height. There is a rock above water 2 cables off the north point, and detached boulders extend one cable from the north-west point, and from the east point ; elsewhere the island is steep-to. Cannan reefs. — The only rock above water of these reefs is 25 feet high, and lies S.S.W. | W. 4^ miles from Fenelon island ; it is nearly 2 cables long east and west, and washed bare by the sea. There is a breaking rock nearly 2 cables W.S.W. from the west end of this rock. A rock awash lies 3 cables north-north-east of the east end, and a rock, which breaks occasionally, lies 8 cables off in the same direction. The depths are 28 to 34 fathoms within one mile of Cannan reefs. Hart island, in lat. 32° 39' S., long. 133° 9' E., and 5J miles west of Cannan reef, is the south-western islet of Nuyts archipelago, and a good mark to steer for when bound to port Eyre from the south- eastward. The island is a nearly bare rock, 65 feet high, and steep-to, except that a rock above water lies close to its north-east point, and a rock under water less than a cable from its south-west point. Yatala reef is 28 miles W. | S. from Hart island. Lacy islands. — The largest island of this group is 7 miles north- north-east of St. Francis island. It is 148 feet high, with a steep, apparently inaccessible coast, and free from outlying dangers. A small round islet, 50 feet high, is situated 2 miles N.W. by N. of this island. A rock, which covers at high water, with a sunken rock one cable north of it, lies 3 cables east of the round islet ; and a rock above water lies half a mile W.S.W. of it. Evans island is E. by N. ^ N. 5^ miles from the largest Lacy island, and 122 feet high. Detached rocks extend a quarter of a mile west of the north-west point of the island ; also 2 cables south of the south-east point ; sunken rocks stretch 2 cables east from the last point, and there is a breaking vock half a cable from the south-west end of the island. The depth is about 10 fathoms close to all the S«e chart, No. 1,061, with plaa of Denial and Smoky baya. Chap. III.] FRANKLIN ISLANDS. 129 above rocks. In moderate weather landing may be effected in a little bay, on the east side of the north part of this island. Flinders reef, 3^ miles east of Evans island, and 6 miles north- west of the west end of Franklin islands, consists of two rocks, each about 10 feet high and 2 cables long, and lying N.N.W. and S.S.E, nearly 2 cables from each other. The swell breaks heavily on this reef, and there are depths of 17 to 21 fathoms half a mile from it all round. Franklin islands are about 18 miles, E. by N., from St. Francis island ; the two large islands of the group, each about 1^ miles in length, are flat-topped, and joined together by a sandy bar, which dries at low water. The western island is 159 feet high ; and the eastern nearly the same height, with a conspicuous bush on the summit at the north end. A chain of rocks, about one mile and a quarter in length, some of - which are above water and the highest elevated 15 feet, lies from 3 to 7 cables off and nearly parallel to the south coast of the western island. A pyramidal rock, about 50 feet high, with rocks that dry extending nearly 2 cables from it, lies 6 cables east of the north point of the eastern island. Franklin islands are frequented by mutton birds (sooty petrel), and cape Barren geese (cereopsis) ; also by a large species of hair seal. Venomous black snakes are very numerous on these islands, and as they are not usually alarmed at the approach of human beings, great care is necessary to avoid treading on them among the low bushes with which the islands are covered. Anchoragre and directions. — The anchorage, available only with south-easterly winds, is on the north side of the western island, about 4 cables from the beach, in depths of 6 to 9 fathoms sand. In approaching this anchorage there are two dangers to avoid, a sunken rock which lies 2 cables north of the point at the west end of the western of the two sandy beaches, on the north side of the western island ; and a rock, with a depth of about 6 feet over it and 3 fathoms one cable westward, which lies 4 cables north-west of the middle point on the west side of the eastern island. In steering for the west point of the Franklin islands, keep that point east of north after the pyramid rock, mentioned above, begins to shut in "With the eastern island to avoid the rocks southward of the islands. Round the west side at the distance of about one mile, See chart, No. 1,061. SO 11712 I 130] CAPE LEEUWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. III. and when the high water south point of the eastern island is in line with the high water north-east end of the western island, bearing S.E, by E. I E. (S. 60° E.), steer towards the anchorage, keeping that mark on, until the point between the two sandy beaches on the north side of the western island bears S.S.E. ; then alter course towards that point, and anchor almost immediately with the north-west point of the western island bearing W.S.W. A small vessel may anchor further in, with that point bearing W. by S. ST. PETER ISLAND, separating Denial from Smoky bay, is nearly 8 miles long, north-east and south-west, and 4 miles broad at its southern end, tapering to a long low sandy point at its north- east point. The southern end of the island has two parallel ranges of hills, covered with bushes and coarse grass, and elevated about 140 feet. Mount Younghusband, in the northern part of the island, is a conspicuous landmark, 144 feet high, falling steeply on the north-east side to the low sandy point, and sloping gradually to the south-westward. A line of reefs, on which the sea breaks heavily, extends nearly 4 miles eastward of the southern part of St. Peter island ; a large sandbank, which dries at low water, extends the same distance eastward of mount Younghusband, and a similar bank stretches 2 miles north-east of the low sandy point at the northern end of the island. Gliddon reef, which dries at low water, lies with its southern extreme 4 cables south of the south point of St. Peter island. Goat island, 195 feet high, is situated near the south-west side of St. Peter island, between which is a bank with less than 3 fathoms on it ; rocks drying at low water nearly blocking up the passage. There is temporary anchorage about one mile north of the east end of Goat island, with south-easterly winds only ; but the bottom is rocky in places. The west side of Goat island is free from danger. DENIAL BAY, consisting of Tourville and Murat bays, has good anchorage in several parts ; vessels of 12 to 13 feet draught can navigate its channels at all times of tide, while at high water there is sufficient depth for vessels of 15 feet draught at neaps, and 18 feet at spring tides. See chart, No. 1,061. Ohap. III.] ST. PBTER ISLAND.— DENIAL BAT. 131 TOURVILLE BAY, in the north-western part of Denial bay, is almost filled up by sand-banks which cover and uncover with the tide. The shores of the bay are lined by mangioves for the greater part ; near cap 3 Beaufort the land descends steeply to high- water mark, the hills rising Jiere to an elevation of 140 feet. Davenport is a mangrove creek on the southern side of Tourville bay, the entrance 2^ miles north-west of Peter point. The least depth outside the entrance to the creek is 7 feet, between the man- groves it soon deepens to 2 and 2 J fathoms. Directions and anchorage. — Secure anchorage in Tourville baj^ can be found by vessels drawing less than 12 feet, and the ^anchorage is so confined that it is necessary to moor. Approaching Peter point from the' south-west, bring that point to bear west of North when 2 miles from it, to avoid the shoal ground to the southward, and then steer for a position one mile East of the point, close to the entrance to the narrow shallow channel between the banks. As no leading mark can be given for proceeding up the channel, the position should be ascertained by bearings of Peter point and the north extreme of the mangroves on the southern side of the bay ; when the water is smooth, and the tide low, the edges of the banks can be plainly seen. The deepest water is near the southern bank. The best position to moor is in mid-channel, with Peter point bearing about S. ^ E., or with the summit of Goat island just open east of that point. To proceed into Davenport creek, when the summit of Goat island is in line with the east side of Peter point, steer for the north extreme of the mangroves just westward of the entrance to the creek on a W. by N. ^ N. bearing, until the creek has well opened out, bearing S.W., when alter course to pass midway between the man- grove points, and up the creek. The most convenient place to moor is at the southern end of the first reach, before the creek turns to the north-west. Tides and tidal streams. — It is high water, full and change, in Tourville bay at Oh. 50m. ; springs rise 7 feet. The tidal streams attain a velocity of 2^ knots at springs in the channel^ of Tourville bay. "Water. — A limited quantity of water can be obtained by digging See chart, No. 1,061. so 11712 I 2 132 CAPE LBBUWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. Ill- in the bare sand of Cowie Yalkeena above the sea beach, but care must be taken not to dig too deeply, or the water will become salt.. The original native wells, about half a mile south of the anchorage in Davonport creek, were filled up with drifted sand in 1878. MTJRAT BAY, the north part of Denial bay, has depths of 4 fathoms over a large area. It is protected seaward by extensive banks, northward and eastward of which there is secure anchorage- in all weathers. Cape Beaufort, the south-western point of Murat bay, is a bold dark point, with hills above covered with mallee scrub. The shores of Murat bay consist of sandy beaches and cliffy points, with a few mangroves on the beaches in the north part and near cape Thevenard. A hill, 133 feet high, is situated near a point 2 miles north-eastward of cape Beaufort. The north shore of Murat bay is lower, with gcrub- covered hills rising gradually inland, the most conspicuous one, 223 feet high, being 3 miles from the coast. In the eastern part of the bay rocky reefs, with less than one fathom on them, extend one mile from the shore. Cape Thevenard, on the eastern side of Denial bay, projects 1^ miles, and is connected with the land by a low neck with man- groves on it, very little above the level of high water springs. The cape is a square grassy point, 55 feet high, with a conspicuous clump- of bush on the summit. Dapline rock, which is awash at low neaps, lies half a mile S.S.W. of the south point of cape Thevenard. One mile west of that part of cape Thevenard is the north end of an extensive sand bank which dries at low water springs, and forms the western side of the channel into Murat bay. Buoy. — A red buoy, with staff and ball, has been placed on the south edge of the Daphne rock, in 9 feet. Bird rock, awash at high water, and consisting of granite boulders, is at the south-eastern end of the above sand bank, and north of the narrowest part of Yatala channel. The north end of a sand bank, which dries at low water springs, is 4 cables south of thi* . See chart, No. 1,061. Ohap. III.] DENIAL BAY. — MURAT BAY. 133 Tock ; and thence shoal water extends to the southward to St. Peter island. Beacon. — A black beacon, with a can-shaped head, 10 feet high, has been placed on Bird rock. Cape Vivonne, the eastern point of Denial bay, is a flat grassy point, about 30 feet high, sloping gradually from the summit of a hill, 113 feet high, one mile to the eastward of the cape, which falls steeply to the coast south of it. A long sandy beach with some sand hills behind forms the north-eastern part of the bight between cape Thevenard and cape Vivonne ; at the south-eastern end of this beach, where the coast turns to the southward, is a conspicuous red clifP, about 60 feet high ; thence to cape Vivonne are low rocky points and sandy beaches, the rises at the back being covered with mallee scrub. Directions and anchorage— Denial bay.— To enter Denial bay, from about 2 miles to the north-west of Goat island, steer to the north-east ; before Peter point bears West, bring the clump on cape Thevenard summit to bear N.E., and steer for it on that bearing, which leads up Yatala channel between the banks to one mile from Bird rock. If the clump on cape Thevenard cannot be made out, fix the position by bearings of mount Younghusband and the summit of Goat island. When Bird rock, marked by a black beacon, is in line with the north end of the red cliff, north of cape Vivonne, alter course towards the rock, keeping the mark on until half a mile from the rock, then steer to pass about 2 cables south of it. When the rock bears North, steer E. ^ S. for the summit of the hill east of cape Vivonne, and keep the hill on that bearing until .the clump on cape Thevenard bears N. ^ W., a vessel will then be eastward of all dangers. The western part of Murat bay affords the best anchorage with strong westerly winds, the bottom being mud, and the holding good. With S.E. winds the best anchorage for moderate draught vessels is to the southward of cape Vivonne, about three-quarters of a mile north of the north-east point of St. Peter island, in a depth of 3 fathoms, mud. Mount Younghusband, bearing South, leads midway between Daphne rock, marked by a red buoy with staff and ball, and the sand bank to the westward, and also clear of the rocks off cape Thevenard ; from the south-eastward, keep the top of the cliff of cape D'Estree touching cape Vivonne, See chart, No. 1,061. 134 CAPE LEEUWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. III.. bearing S.E. ^ E., until mount Younghusband bears South, then proceed with the mount on that bearing until north of cape Thevenard. To enter Decres bay from Denial bay, pass rather over half a mile south of cape Yivonne, then steer to the north-east, and bring the first high bare sand hill westward of Peter point summit in line with cape Vivonne, bearing West, which mark leads in 3 fathoms, north of the spit extending north-eastward from St. Peter island ; this mark should be kept on until the summit of the hill, one mile eastward of cape Yivonne, bears N.W., when alter course towards- cape D'Estree. Tides and tidal streams. — It is high water, full and change,. in Denial bay at Oh. 50m. ; spring rise 7 feet. In the narrow parts of the different channels the tidal streams run at the rate of 2 knots an hour at springs. Along the shore, northward of mount Young- husband, the streams run 1^ knots ; during the rising tide the direction is E. by N. ^ N., and during the falling W. by S. ^ S. ; in the northern part of Murat bay the streams are almost imperceptible. Water. — There is a limited supply of water in a well near a hut on the north-west side of St. Peter island, at the southern end of some sand hills, 3^ miles south-west of mount Younghusband. Elsewhere on the island brackish water can be obtained. SMOKY BAY, east of St. Peter island, is protected by the shoals east of that island and Eyre island with its surrounding banks. Waterwitch channel, by which the bay is entered from seaward, can be navigated at low water by vessels drawing 21 feet, but the 4 fathoms channel has a width of only 2 cables at its narrowest part. Cape D'Estree, 6 miles S.E. | E. of cape Vivonne, divides Smoky bay into two parts, the north-west being called Decres bay. The coast between cape Yivonne and cape D'Estree consists for the most part of two long sandy beaches, with a low rocky point between them, and low sand hills at the back. For 2 miles N.N.W. of cape D'Estree the coast is cliffy, and about 70 feet high ; the light coloured cliff at the pitch of the cape is 100 feet high, the land immediately behind being lower, but the scrub-covered hills, about 2i miles baok, are slightly higher. A sand bank, which dries between half -tide and low water, lies 2 miles south-west of cape D'Estree, on the north side of Waterwitch channel ; and another bank, with depths fke chart, No. 1,061. Chap. III.] SMOKY BAY. — EYRE ISLAND. 135 of one foot to one fathom, is 3 miles south of that cape, on the south side of that channel. Laura bay, a shallow bight, 2^ miles N.E. by E. of cape D'Estree, is sometimes used as a shipping place, there being a small stone pier at the eastern point of the bay, from which a track leads to the nearest sheep station. With strong southerly winds the landing at the pier is bad, as there are some rocks near it ; during these winds the best landing is on the beach close inside the western point of the bay. The overland mail track to Port Lincoln passes along the shore of Laura bay. Between cape D'Estree and Laura bay the coast is a broken limestone cliff. The coast, south-east of Laura bay, consists of rocky points, low limestone cliffs and sandy beaches, with sand hills behind. One mile from the eastern point of Laura bay is a small rocky islet, 30 feet high ; between it and the shore is a spit which dries. The hills inland are thickly wooded with mallee scrub ; the most conspicuous being one, 143 feet high, one mile east of Laura bay ; Saddle peak, a saddle-shaped sand peak, 93 feet high, close to the coast, 5 miles from Laura bay ; and two long round-topped hills, the northern one 165 feet high, 3 miles further to the south-east. The shores of the south-eastern part of Smoky bay are very low, and in some places lined with mangroves, with swamps at the back. On the eastern shore, 10 miles south-east of Laura bay, there is a steep shell beach, on which the landing is good, and where cargo is some- times shipped, coasters being able to anchor about a quarter of a mile from the beach. Cape Missiessy, on the south side of Smoky bay, is the extreme of a low sand bank, with swamps to the eastward of it. Smoky bay hill, 2^ miles south of this cape, and the first rise in that direction from it, is a dark peak, 107 feet high. Eyre island, on the southern side of Smoky bay, is nearly entirely occupied by mangroves and swamps ; the highest part of the island is the sand ridge which runs along the south'ern coast, and which near the middle is 25 feet above high water. Westward of Eyre island is a long, narrow, bare sandy islet, about 8 feet high ; and at the south-west extreme of Eyre island shoals, and 3 miles north-east of the eastern Franklin island, are Goalen rocks, the See ehart, No. 1,061. 136 CAPE LBEUWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. III. north-west of which is 10 feet high, and the south-east, on which the swell breaks heavily, is awash at high water. Rocky reefs, which break with an ordinary swell, extend from Goalen rocks, parallel to the southern coast of Eyre island, to the mainland south of Smoky bay hill. The edge of the one-fathom bank is generally IJ miles from the northern sides of the Eyre islands. Directions for Smoky bay, and anclioragre.— Having passed westward of Franklin islands, bring cape D'Estree to bear N.E. by N., and steer for it on that bearing up Waterwitch channel, until Saddle peak, 5 miles south-east of Laura bay bears E. ^ N., then keep that peak on that bearing to pass through the narrow channel into Smoky bay ; this leads very close to the shoals especially on the south side, where there are only 3 feet at low water. In navigating Waterwitch channel, cross-bearings of mount Younghusband and cape D'Estree will readily fix the position. When cape D'Estree bears N.N.W., alter course to N.E., and anchor in 4^ fathoms, sand, with cape D'Estree bearing about N.W. by W., and the hill one mile eastward of Laura bay N.E. by N. Small vessels anchor anywhere inside the banks in Smoky bay, according to draught and the direction of the wind, the western part of Decres bay affording the best shelter and smoothest water with strong westerly winds. The lead should be attended to in standing towards the banks. Tides and tidal streams. — It is high water, full and change, in Smoky bay at Oh. 43m. ; springs rise 6| feet. The tidal streams in Waterwitch channel run in the direction of the channel ; at the southern entrance they attain a rate of one knot at springs, and in the narrow part of the channel a rate of 2 knots ; inside the bay the streams are very slight. STREAKY BAY.— A depth of 5 fathoms at low water can be carried through Warburton channel into the north-eastern part of Streaky bay ; where, eastward of Lindsay point, in a depth of 5^ fathoms, is the only secure anchorage, in all weathers, for vessels of heavy draught, between King George sound and port Lincoln. Dash wood channel, leading into the southern part of the bay, and towards Blanche port, is navigable by vessels of 13 feet draught at low water, and of 19 feet draught at high-water springs. The South channel has not more than 11 feet at low water. The township of See ohart, No. 1,061 ; with plan, Streaky bay, scale m =0-48 inch. "Chap. III.] STREAKY BAY. 137 Flinders is at the southern end of Blanche port, in the south-eastern part of Streaky bay, in which port there is excellent anchorage for any vessel that can pass through Dash wood channel. The country about Streaky bay is principally occupied by sheep farmers, but some of the land has been bought and settled on by agriculturists for the cultivation of wheat. The population of Flinders is 150. BROWN POINT, the north-west point of Streaky bay, is red in appearance, 115 feet high, and covered with coarse grass ; the •eastern side is a steep cliff, and the western a gradual slope. Between Brown point and Smoky bay hill, 6 miles to the northward, the <;oast consists of rocky points and sandy beaches, the latter with sand hills behind, of which the highest is mount Mary, 149 feet high, 2 miles north of mount Brown. Inland there are rises covered with mallee scrub, rising to a height of 137 feet, 4 miles from Brown point. Detached sunken rocks extend some distance from this part of the coast, and it should not be approached nearer than 2 miles. Gascoigne bay extends from Collinson point, which is 2 miles ■east of Brown point, to De Mole point, 5^ miles further to the east- north-east. Collinson point is low and sandy, with a sunken reef, which breaks only with a heavy swell, one mile south of it. There are rollers for nearly a mile off-shore between Brown and Collinson points in bad weather ; and IJ miles E. ^ N. of Collinson point is a detached rocky bank, with a depth of 3 fathoms on it. The shores of Gascoigne bay are low and sandy, and fronted by rocks, except in the northern part of the bay. De Mole point is 102 feet high, dark, and wooded, with a rock, awash at half -tide, 7 cables S. by W. of it. Anchoragre. — There is good anchorage for coasters in a depth of 2^ fathoms, sand and weed, in the north-western part of Gascoigne bay. To approach this anchorage it is necessary to pass between two sunken rocks, which are usually shown by the sea breaking on them ; the high sand hill near the beach, 3 miles westward of De Mole point, bearing N. ^ E., leads between the rocks, whence a vessel should steer N.W., and anchor with Collinson point bearing S.W. by S., and De Mole point E. J N. There is good landing north- west of this anchorage, the beach there being free from rocks, with a •moderate depth close to it. See chart, No. 1,061. 138 CAPE LBBUWIN TO CAPB CATASTROPHE. [Chap. III.. Lindsay point, 5 miles N.E. by E. ^ E. of De Mole point, is round, sandy, and only 12 feet high. The most conspicuous object in the sandy bight between those points is a dark hillock, 67 feet high, in the middle of the bight and close to the beach. The bight just north of De Mole point is sometimes used as a shipping place for the sheep station near that point, but the shoi-e is rocky and shallow, the landing bad, and the anchorage exposed. Shoal banks extend south of Lindsay point to a distance of more than 3 miles, forming the northern side of Warburton channel. The mouth of Acraman creek, on the bar of which there is a depth of 5 feet at high water springs, is on the north-eastern side of Lindsay point ; the creek runs for some miles among samphire swamps. A sand hill, 51 feet high, one mile north-west of the entrance, is a conspicuous object from the anchorage eastward of Lindsay point. PERLUBIE is a conspicuous bare sand patch on the eastern side of Streaky bay, 15 miles S.E. J E. of Lindsay point. It is 71 feet high, and is the best mark for leading through the Dashwood channel. Between Lindsay point and Perlubie the coast is sandy, with low broken rocky points ; the sand hills near the beach are 40 to 90 feet in height, rising gradually to the southward. A range of rounded hills, clothed with dark mallee scrub, and from 120 to 150 feet high, runs parallel to the coast, one to 2 miles inland. North, bank stretches nearly 6 miles off shore midway between Lindsay point and Perlubie, with a 2J fathoms channel between its eastern end and the beach. A low narrow sand bank dries at low water in the eastern part, with several detached dry patches extend- ing southward from its western end to the northern side of Dashwood channel. Soutll sand, separating Dashwood and South channels, lies with its eastern extreme 7 cables W. by S. of Perlubie, with a 5^ fathoms channel between. The sand dries at low water springs, in an east and west direction, for a length of 4^ miles and a width of a quarter to half a mile, the depth of 1^ fathoms extending from the bank being nearly 8 miles westward of Perlubie. Dasliwood rock, situated in the middle of Streaky bay, off the entrance to Dashwood channel, and N. J W. 6^ miles from the west side of cape Bauer, is a dangerous pinnacle rock with a depth of 9 feet , ike chart, No. 1,061. Chap. III.] DASH WOOD ROCK. — BLANCHE PORT. 139* on it, and 5 fathoms 2 cables off all round. The sea only breaks> occasionally on this rock, even with a heavy swell. Breakers. — A rocky patch, with a depth of 5 fathoms on it, and' 13 to 16 fathoms half a mile off all round, on which the sea breaks with a heavy swell, is situated 4^ miles S.E. ^ E. of Brown point. Another patch, on which the least water found was 8 fathoms,, although there may possibly be less, is situated 4 miles E. by N. from the above 5-fatlioms patch, and 4J miles W.N.W. from Dashwood rock. The sea breaks in this position with a heavy swell. Eba island, 3 miles to the southward of Perlubie, is 85 feet high,, covered with coarse grass and low bushes, with some sand hills above a sandy cliff on its north side. Between this island and the land is a sand bank which dries at low water. Nearly one mile south of the east end of Eba island is a rocky islet, 30 feet high, with a rock, that dries 4 feet at low water, IJ cables south-west of it. BLANCHE PORT. — The coast between Perlubie and the^ entrance to Blanche port consists of low rocky points and sandy beaches, with sand hills and grass flats behind in some places, and scrub-covered hills 150 to 200 feet high further inland ; from one to 3 miles south of Perlubie the scrub-covered hills slope right down to the shore. Perforated rocks, on the eastern side of the entrance to Blanche port, are two limestone rocks, one cable off shore, each 5 feet high,, and full of holes. Fairway rock, W. by S., 7 cables from the west Perforated rock,. IS a rocky patch, 1^ cables across, and with a depth of 3 feet over it. . The deepest channel into Blanche port is^ eastward of Fairway rock. Buoy. — ^A small red buoy, with a staff, is on the east side of Fairway rock in 2 fathoms. Oyster spit dries at low water, for nearly four cables westward of Crawford landing, the next point to the southward of Perforated rocks. The west end of this spit is very steep, and as it is covered with dark green weed, the water looks deep directly the spit is covered by the tide, therefore care is necessjary to avoid it. Se& chart, No. 1,061. 140 CAPE LBEUWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. III. Sponge rock, on the west side of the middle of Blanche port, is a small mound, consisting of large shells and marine fungoids over rock. It has a depth of 5 feet on it at low water, with 3 fathoms, muddy bottom, all round. This rock lies W. by S. ^ S., IJ miles from the low rocky point of Crawford landing, and 7 cables from the west side of the port. The Perforated rocks are touching one another from Sponge rock. Blanche port is of more pleasing appearance than the other paiti •of Streaky bay ; the hills are covered with coarse grass, and here and there the slopes are wooded with shea-oak* trees, intermingled with mallee scrub. The shore is fronted by sandy beaches, with cliff}' banks, some coloured red. A hill, with a single tree on it, to the .south-east of the port, the church of Flinders township, and a hou^t* on the western shore, are good marks. Gibson point, on the western side of the entrance to Blanche port, is very low and sandy, with bushes nearly as far as its high water extreme. The sand spit dries from Gibson point to a position 7 cables north-west of Perforated rocks, and its eastern end is very steep. On the south side of Gibson point a shallow creek runs 3 miles to the westward, its shores bordered by mangroves. Buoy. — A red buoy, with staff and ball, is at the north end of the one fathom patch, lying N.W. by N. 3 miles from Gibson point. The buoy is in 3 fathoms, with Eba island E. by N., and Gibson point S.E. by S. CAPE BAUER, the south-western point of Streaky bay, is 9 miles west of the entrance to Blanche port, the coast between being sandy until 2 miles from the cape, when cliffs commence. Near the extreme of cape Bauer some sandy rises are above the top of the cliff, the summit of the cape, one mile inland, covered with stones and iow scrub, being 295 feet high. From there a scrub-covered range, of about the same height, trends south-eastward. Some detached rocks lie with the northernmost 6 cables from the north-west part of ■cape Bauer. Olive island is a flat-topped rock, 82 feet high, 5 miles W. J S. of •cape Bauer, and much frequented by seals. A small head of rock, See chart, No. 1,061. — ♦ Shea-oak is the name given to a remarkable leafless tree, whose long drooping jigid branchleta render it singular and picturesque. It is of the genus casuarina. Chap. III.] CAPE BAUER. — STREAKY BAY, DIRECTIONS. 14! about 10 feet above water, is 2 miles N.E. by E. of Olive island, and near the north-east extreme of the numerous rocks in the vicinity of that island. Rocks extend one mile to the southward and westward of Olive island. They usually show by the heavy breakers on them.. DIRECTIONS FOR STREAKY BAY.— Streaky bay should be entered by passing about '6 miles north-west of Olive island. The passage between the island and cape Bauer should not be attempted,, except under steam or with a commanding breeze. From about 3 miles north-west of Olive island, steer N.E., taking care to avoid Dashwood rock, by not shutting in mount Westall, the summit of Westall point, with cape Bauer, until Perlubie sand bears south of East, or Brown point summit west of W.N.W. No marks can be given for entering Warburton channel, but the position of a vessel can be readily ascertained by cross bearings of Brown point, the summits of De Mole point and cape Bauer ; the chart is a sufficient guide for passing through the channel to the anchorage, and the course must be altered as necessary. To enter by Dashwood channel, observing the marks and bearings above to avoid Dashwood rock, when Perlubie sand bears E. | S., or if that is not in sight, Brown point summit is W. by N. ^ N., steer E. ^ N., and bring the northern part of Perlubie sand to bear E. by S.,. then alter course towards it, remembering that in crossing the bar the deepest water will be found by keeping Perlubie rather southward than northward of that bearing. The same bearing of Perlubie should be preserved after the bar is passed, until the west end of Eba island bears S. ^ E., when alter course towards it, keeping it bearing S. ^ E. to proceed between Perlubie and the east end of South sand. When Perlubie bears N.E. by E., steer to pass not less than half a mile westward of Eba island, and then steer for the Perforated rocks at the entrance to Blanche port. Give those rocks a berth of about 3 cables, passing between them and the Fairway rock buoy, when the church at Flinders will bear S. by W. ^ W. ;. steer for the church on that bearing, until the east Perforated rock is just open south of the west rock, bearing N.E., when alter course to S.W., keeping that mark on astern, until the church bears S. ^ E.. Then keep the church bearing S. ^ E., and proceed to the southward according to the depth of water required. In following the above directions the least water passed over will be 16 to 17 feet at low See chart, No. 1,061. 142 CAPE LEEUWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. III. water and 22 feet at high water. When near Oyster spit, extending •off Crawford landing, care is necessary to avoid it. To enter by South channel, a passage available at low water for vessels of less than 10 feet draught, from about 3 miles north-west of Olive island, steer E. by N. until Eba island summit bears East ; keep this bearing on and cross the bar, which will be passed when One Tree hill in Blanche port is in line with Gibson point, bearing S.S.E., or, when the buoy on the one fathom bank is seen and bearing E.S.E. or the southward of it, steer to pass about 2 cables north of the buoy . Then steer S.E. ^ E., taking care to give the spit east of Gibson point a good berth, and when the east Perforated rock bears S.S.E. steer towards those rocks and as above directed. Anchorages in Streaky bay. — The northern anchorage for large vessels is with Lindsay point, bearing West, distant 2 miles, the summit of the conspicuous sand hill inside Acraman creek N.W. by W., and De Mole point summit, W. by S. | S., in a depth of 5J fathoms, sand and weed. Small vessels may anchor between this position and Acraman creek, according t o draught. There is good shelter and fairly smooth water in this locality under all conditions of wind and weather. Vessels may anchor anywhere inside the North bank or South sand, or the banks between them and the shore to the south- ward, but with westerly gales there is an unpleasant short sea near the eastern shore of Streaky bay, and considerable strain on the cables. Under these circumstances the anchorage south-east of the middle of North bank, and as near as possible to its edge, is the best for shelter ; but Blanche port is altogether preferable, as it is a perfectly landlocked harbour, with excellent holding ground. Anchor a vessel of 18 or 19 feet draught in Blanche port in about 4 fathoms, mud, with the church at Flinders bearing S. f E. and the north extreme of the low rocky point at Crawford landing E. by N. Small vessels anchor nearer the township, the depth being about 12 to 15 feet for from 2 cables to one mile from the southern shore, with the church bearing S.S.E. to S. by W., and there is a hole having upwards of 3 fathoms in it, with its centre N.N.W. ^ W., one mile from the church. There is a good berth for a vessel drawing less than 12 feet, with the church bearing S. ^ E., and One Tree hill E. | N., in 14 to 15 feet, muddy bottom, about 3 cables from the landing at the township. . — — - — ^ /&« chart, No. 1,061. '€hap. in.] streaky bat.— corvisart bay. 143 Jetty. — A jetty has been constructed at Streaky bay ; it is • 870 feet long with a depth of 12 feet at the outer end at low water. Tides and tidal streams.— It is high water, full and change, in Blanche port at Oh. 5m. ; springs rise 6 feet, neaps 3 to 4^ feet. The tidal streams generally run directly through the channels, and are insignificant in the open parts of the bay. In Warburton channel they attain a rate of one knot ; in Dashwood channel 1^ knots ; in South channel less than one knot ; between Perlubie and the South sand IJ knots; and at the entrance to Blanche port, between Perforated rocks and Gibson spit, a rate of 2^ knots at springs. Inside Blanche port the streams are very slight. Observation spot at Blanche port is in lat. 32° 47' 50" S., long. 134° 13' 20" E. ; Snapper point (Adelaide) being in long. 138° 31' 0" E. Telegraph and communication.- The telegraph office at Flinders has communication with the universal telegraph system. There is a weekly mail from Adelaide to Streaky bay, overland, via Port Lincoln, also a regular steamer and schooner. Meteorological observations.— In 1890 the mean height of the barometer at Streaky bay was 29*996 inches, the maximum .30'452 inches, the minimum 29*347 inches. The rainfall in the year was 23*5 inches ; the mean annual rainfall during 12 years being 15*8 inches, the greatest fall being 22*39 inches in 1889 and the least 9*48 inches in 1881, Supplies. — ^A moderate quantity of supplies can be obtained at Blanche port, and oysters may be dredged in some parts of that port. Water may be best obtained at Perlubie sand. Life-saving" apparatus. — A rocket life-saving station has been established at Blanche port, and assistance will, if possible, be rendered, in the event of a vessel being stranded in or near Streaky bay, under such circumstances that the lives of the crew are in danger. CORVISART BAY, between cape Bauer and Westall point, is exposed to the south-westerly swell. The surveying schooner some- times anchored, with south-easterly winds, in the southern part of the bay, N.N.E. from mount Westall, but this anchorage is not recommended. The shore of this bay is a mixture of sand and -.5^^ oh^, No, 1,061. 144 CAPE LEBUWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. IIU rocks, with sand hills behind, and the scrub-covered hills of Gibson peninsula further inland. The water is deep near the shore, except northward of mount Westall, where a reef with 4 fathoms at its end^ and on which the sea breaks at times, extends to the northward upwards of one mile from the land. Westall point, 11 miles south of cape Bauer, rises to mount Westall, a conspicuous, regularly-shaped summit, 315 feet high.. The coast of the point is generally steep, and reddish in appearance, with fringing shelves of rock, on which the sea breaks heavily. There are also heavy breakers on a reef which stretches one mile south-west of the southern part of Westall point. SCEALE BAY, south-east of Westall point, is a clear sandy bay, having anchorage for small vessels at both ends, with S.E. winds ; but it is unsafe with westerly gales, except close inshore at the north-western part. The north rocky point of this bay is^ 3^ miles east of Westall point, the bight between being foul, and the shore lined with sand hills 120 to 130 feet high. Yanerbie hill,.. 150 feet high, is at the north end of a large patch of bare sand on the shore of Sceale bay, and is conspicuous. A rocky patch, with a least depth of 4^ fathoms, on which the sea breaks at times, lies IJ miles^ east of the north rocky point of Sceale bay, otherwise the bay i& free from danger. Anch.orag'e. — To avoid the above rocky patch, in proceeding towards the northern anchorage, keep Yanerbie hill bearing N.N.E. I E., until the end of the north point of Sceale bay bears south of West. The bay is then clear to the northward. A small vessel should anchor in 3 fathoms, with the point near bearing S.S.W., and mount Westall, seen over the sand hills in the bight to the westward, N.W. by W. The southern anchorage is with the junction of the long sandy beach and the rocky coast of cape Blanche, bearing S. by E., according to draught. Cape Blanche, S.E. | S., about 9 miles from Westall point, is a bold cliffy point ; a sandy hill, 335 feet high, rises above the cliff close to the west extreme. The cliff, with sand tops above, is nearly as high for 2 miles to the south-eastward ; from the sea face, the point slopes inland to the low grassy plain forming the neck con- necting the point with the land eastward. Rocks and breakers. Ses chart, No. 1,061. Chap. III.] SCEALE BAY.— CAPE RADSTOCK, 145 extend nearly one mile west and north of the west extreme of cape Blanche, and a reef, on which the sea breaks heavily, projects 6 cables south of the south point. CAPE RADSTOCK,* the north point of Anxious bay, is steep and bold, the cliff rising to a height of 477 feet ; the cliffs and rises decrease in height on either side of the cape. From the neck inside cape Blanche the coast trends S.S.E. for 8 miles, and consists of sandy beaches and small rocky points with sand hills behind, from 120 to 220 feet high. About 5 miles north-west of cape Radstock the cliffs begin and extend uninterruptedly to that cape. Sunken rocks, with heavy breakers, stretch nearly 2 miles offshore at the northern end of the cliff ; and the coast 5 miles north-west of cape Radstock has rocks and foul ground off* it for about one mile in all directions seaward. A reef, which breaks at times, extends three-quarters of a mile south of cape Radstock. Rook. — A rocky shoal, about half a cable across, and upon which a depth of 12 feet was found, with cape Radstock bearing N.W., distant 2^ miles, has been reported. Beard bay is a shallow inlet running for 10 miles to the north- west, with its entrance 1^ miles eastward of cape Radstock. The entrance is barred by rocks, and the sea generally breaks across, but boats might enter at high water in very fine weather. ANXIOUS BAY, fully exposed to the prevailing south-westerly swell, extends 33 miles south-east of cape Radstock, 15 miles from which is the entrance to Venus harbour, a port available for vessels of about 12 feet draught. The conspicuous objects inland round the bay are : — mount Hall, 638 feet high, 12 miles north- eastward of cape Radstock, and the summit of a flat-topped sandy scrub-covered range, which ends towards Beard bay in a steep fall, Galea bluff, 326 feet high ; the range continues to the eastward of mount Hall, but the summits are not remarkable enough from the sea to be used as navigating marks ; mount Campbell, close to the coast, 5 miles south east of the entrance to Venus harbour, 260 feet high, showing above the sand hills on both sides of it ; Talia hill 4 miles inland, and 13 miles south-east of Venus harbour, a round hill standing alone, about 400 feet high ; and Bramfield hill, some * Named by Flinders after Admiral Lord Radstock. See chart, No. 1,061. SO 11712 K 146 CAPE LEEUWm TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. IIT. what similar in appearance to Talia hill, 634 feet high, and 6 miles inland from the southern part of Anxious bay. Weyland point, westward of the entrance to Venus harbour, is a conspicuous bold cliff point, 293 feet high ; it rises to 325 feet, 4 cables to the northward, sloping inland towards Venus harbour. For 5 miles eastward of Beard bay entrance the coast is mixed rock and sand, with sand hills about 100 feet high behind, and rocks and breakers stretching one mile offshore. Cliffs then continue without a break for 10 miles to Weyland point, the most conspicuous part of that coast being 380 feet high, above a bold cliff projection, 5 miles north-west of Weyland point. Howard rock lies S.E. 3 cables from Weyland point. The sea breaks heavily on the rock in bad weather, but at high water, and with smooth water, it may not show. VENUS HARBOUR has a very limited anchoring space even for the small vessels to which it is accessible. It is unnecessary to describe in detail the greater part of the shallow lagoon, with its sand banks and islands, as it is not used for navigation. The entrance is between two low rocky points north-east of Weyland point, and in the narrow part is only If cables wide. A depth of 21 feet can be carried over the most exposed part of the bar, which usually breaks, except with the in-going tidal stream, and in moderate weather ; but 13 feet is the deepest water in the narrow part, with the advantage that comparatively smooth water will be found in that place. The township of Parkin is on the south shore, nearly one mile east of the entrance. At 2 cables east of the middle of the entrance is the west end of a sand bank, which dries at low water, and extends with a width of half a cable three- quarters of a mile to the eastward. The south-west edge of a rocky patch, 2 cables across, which dries, is 4 cables E. by N. from the north entrance point. Germein island is low and swampy, with mangroves near the coast, except at the southern end, where is a sand ridge 40 feet high. BaoyS. — A red buoy is placed on a one fathom patch, just inside the entrance. A black buoy is placed on a 5 foot patch, 150 yards to the north-east of the red buoy. These buoys are cheese-shaped and mark the channel, which is 7 feet deep, over the tail of the shifting sand bank. See chart, No. 1,066, Venus harbour, scale m = 2*0 inches. Chap. ITT.] VENUS HARBOUTl. 147 Jetty. — A jetty extends 535 feet from the west end of Parkin township. It has a depth of 10 feet at low water. Directions for Venus harbour. — This harbour should only be entered by a sailing vessel with a commanding fair wind, and then only during moderate weather, and with the tidal stream running in. A good guide as to the practicability of the bar, which in bad weather and with the out-going stream is a mass of breakers, is to observe if the sea is breaking on Howard rock near Weyland point. If that rock has no break on it, the bar may be taken under the conditions mentioned above. In the event of its being consi- dered unadvisable to enter, a vessel may stand off and on, or await a favourable opportunity at the anchorage under Flinders island. From a position one mile to the south-east of Weyland point, steer N. by E., allowing for the tidal stream, and when the eastern extreme of the north head bears N.E. | N. (just open of the south-eastern extreme of that head), steer for it on that bearing, until about one cable from the head ; then, to go northward of the sand bank, proceed E, by N. ^ N., midway between the heads, leaving the black buoy on the starboard side, and bring the south point of the north head to bear W. J S., keeping it on that bearing up to the anchorage. A good look-out should be kept for the edges of the banks. To proceed southward of the sand bank, from the entrance, pass between the buoys, and keep the north point of the south head bearing W. :} S. ; the least depth in this channel is 7 feet at low water, and the anchorage is only available for small vessels of less than 8 feet draught. The best time for leaving Venus harbour under sail is in the early morning, when the tide suits, while the land breeze is still blowing. Anchorage. — Vessels should moor in Venus harbour. The best anchorage is in 3J fathoms, with the south point of the north head bearing W. ^ S., and the highest sand hill on the western side of Germein island N.N.W. Southward of the sand bank the sand hill on Germein island should be on the same bearing, and the north point of the south head W. ^ S. Tides and tidal streams. — It is high water, full and change, in Venus harbour at Ih. 30m. ; springs rise 4 to 5 feet. The tidal streams run with the channels, and at a rate of 3 to 4 knots through the entrance. See chart, No. 1,066. so 11712 / x:2 148 CAPE LEEUWTN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. TIT. Mail communication. — There is weekly mail communication between Parkin and Adelaide, via Port Lincoln. CAPE FINNIS, at the southern end of Anxious bay, is a rocky point, with a rounded top, 176 feet high. Sunken rocks, with less depths than one fathom on them, extend from the north side of the point to the east side of Waldegrave island. For 9 miles south- eastward of Venus harbour the coast is rocky, and mount Campbell is the highest hill near it ; there is then an unbroken sandy beach for a distance of 14 miles, with sand hills and grassy hills behind ; the remaining 4 miles to cape Finnis is a sandy beach broken by several small rocky points. The coast may be approached to a distance of one mile between Weyland point and cape Finnis. INVESTIGATOR GROUP stretches nearly 40 miles south- westward of cape Finnis, and consists of Waldegrave islands. Top - gallant islands. Flinders island, Ward islands, and Pearson islands. There is anchorage, except with strong northerly winds, east of Flinders island ; and for small vessels, with southerly winds, north- east of Waldegrave island. Waldegrave islands lie 1\ to 4 miles north-west of cape Finnis. The larger and eastern island is fiat-topped and grassy, the highest part, 120 feet high, being near the east end. The western island, 76 feet high, has a steep cliff on its south side, from the top of which the land slopes gradually on the northern side. These islands are connected by rocks, of which the only one always above water is situated 1^ cables west of the larger island ; another rock above water is on the northern end of a reef, stretching upwards of a cable north of the north-east point of that island. The Watchers are two rocks about a mile apart ; the western one, 24 feet high, is 3 miles W. by S. of the smaller of the Walde- grave islands. These rocks are surrounded by sunken rocks to a short distance, and have 8 to 10 fathoms in the channel between, with 15 to 16 fathoms half a mile off in other directions. FLINDERS ISLAND, the largest and central island of the Investigator group, is of limestone formation, the coast consisting of cliffs and sandy beaches, the southern bay on the north-east side having sand hills behind the beach. The cliff at the south-east point of Sec chart, No. 1,061. Chap. III.] CAPE FINNIS. — INVESTIGATOR GROUP. 149 the island is 175 feet high, and that of the next point westward 202 feet, and remarkable in appearance, the land sloping northward from the top of the cliff, which shows three heads when seen from the eastAvard. The north-east point is also a steep cliff, 203 feet high. The island has several long-topped rises, which slope to the south and west, and are somewhat higher than the cliffs before mentioned ; the most conspicuous of these hills is 215 feet high, one mile north-east of the south point of the island. A large area of sunken reefs, on which the sea always breaks, lies from 3 to 5| miles west of the northern part of Flinders island, and extends 2^ miles in a north and south direction. There is an isolated breaking rock midway between the south-eastern extreme of these reefs and Flinders island, and a similar rock 2^ miles north-west of the north-west point of the island. The north and west sides of Flinders island are generally foul, sunken reefs and rocky patches extending over one mile from the coast. A detached reef, the centre of which dries at low water, lies half a mile east of the south extreme of the beach in the south bay on the north- east side of Flinders island ; the anchorage for small vessels is between this reef and the beach. The bays west of the south-east point are foul, but between them and the south point of the island rocks do not extend more than a quarter of a mile from the coast. Topgallant isles, 3 miles east of Flinders island, consist of an islet half a mile long, and several bare rocks extending nearly a mile south-east of it. The group takes its name from these rocks, the southern of which is 180 feet high, and from several points of view they have the appearance of vessels, the upper sails only of which are above the horizon. The coast of the islet is a steep cliff, about 250 feet high ; the top of the islet is round and 330 feet above high water. Sunken rocks extend 4 cables south-west of the islet, and a quarter of a mile east of the southern rock ; elsewhere Topgallant isles are steep-to. Directions for Flinders island anchor ag"e,— This anchorage, which is off the southern beach on the north-east side of the island, is not safe with strong north or north-east winds, and should only be used when necessary to seek shelter from a west or south-west gale ; or in the summer with fine weather and moderate south or east winds. In approaching Flinders island from the westward care should be taken to avoid the rocks See chart, No. 1,061. 150 CAPE LEEUWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. III. and reefs mentioned aboye in the description of the island. Steering for the anchorage from the southward, pass between Flinders and Topgallant islands, and do not approach Flinders island nearer than one mile, until the north Topgallant isle bears E. | S., then alter course to W. ^ N., keeping the north Topgallant isle bearing E. ^ S. Large vessels anchor about half a mile off shore, north of the middle of the beach, in 6 to 8 fathoms, sand, with the south-east point of Flinders island bearing S. by E. J E., and the point at the north end of the beach N.W. by W. i W. Small vessels anchor in 3 to 4 fathoms, sand, further south, between the reef and the shore, with the south-east point bearing S.S.E. ; and the junction of the sand and cliff at the south end of the bay S.W. by S. From these anchorages vessels should get under way if the wind comes from the north or north-east, before the sea has time to rise. Supplies. — A moderate amount of water may be obtained from the wells at the back of the anchorage boach. There are generally a number of sheep on Flinders island, and mutton may possibly be procured from the shepherd. The best landing is near the south end of the beach, but if there is a swell at the anchorage, care is necessary in landing, as there may be a considerable surf. Ward isles, 7 to 10 miles westward of the south end of Flinders island, consist of two islets surrounded by sunken rocks, and three detached sunken reefs on which the sea usually breaks.- The larger and north-west islet is flat-topped, and its sides are cliffs, rising to an elevation of 162 feet. The north-west reef is one mile north-west of this islet, and the south reef, 1^ miles south, with the third reef between it and the islet. Sunken rocks extend nearly half a mile north of this islet. The south-east islet is a small rock, 92 feet high, with sunken rocks extending one cable north and south of it. PEARSON ISLANDS, the south-west islands of Investi- gator group, which are of bold granite formation, comprise four islands, and a rock above water westward of the north island, with a sunken rock between that island and the next to the southward. The north island has steep cliffs on the west side, rising in the north part of the island nearly to its peaked summit, which is 781 feet high, and when first seen very similar in appearance to Greenly island, 50 miles S.E. by S. from it. See chart, No. 1,061. Chap. III.] PEARSON ISLANDS.— WATERLOO BAY. 151 The north point has another peak above it about 600 feet high. The east side of the summit of the north island is a grassy slope, partially wooded with shea-oaks. The south part of this island has two bare rocky tops, the one near the south point 378 feet high. In fine weather there is landing on the east side of the island on the sandy beach under the low summit in the middle of the island. Here there are usuallj^ great numbers of hair seals, and in the breeding season the islands are frequented by albatross, large flocks of which may be seen on the water eastward of them. The two middle islands of the group are bare rocks, the northern 269 feet, and the southern 81 feet high. The south island, also bare, is nearly divided in the middle, the north part being 460 feet high, and the south 386 feet. There is a breaker close to the south-west point of this island. With the exceptions mentioned, there is deep water close to all the Pearson islands. They are uninhabited. WATERLOO BAY, 2^ miles south-east of cape Finnis (the coast between being cliffy, with hills upwards of 200 feet high behind), is a semi-circular opening in the coast about one mile in depth, and the same distance between the entrance points. The bay is open to the south-west, but is somewhat protected from that quarter by the reefs which occupy most of the space between the entrance points. Much wheat is grown in the district and a large area is utilised for squatting purposes. This bay, owing to its being so much easier of access, is often used in preference to Venus harbour as a port for the district in the vicinity of Anxious bay. The township of Elliston is on the east side of the bay, where there is a jetty, 348 feet in length, with a depth of 6 feet at its outer end. The wheat and wool are shipped from here. The population of the district is 964. Beacons. — Two beacons, with triangular-shaped heads, painted black, are on the north-east shore of Waterloo bay. These beacons in line bearing N.E. by N. lead over the bar in the deepest water and to the moorings in the bay. Mooringrs for two vessels have been laid down in Waterloo bay in 27 feet at low water. Two black mooring buoys are attached to them. Life-saving apparatus. — ^A rocket station is maintained here. See chart, Xo. 1,0(J1 ; with plan, Waterloo bay, scale m =2'5 inches. 152 CAPE LEEUWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. III. Directions. — Waterloo bay is available for vessels of 10 feet draught at low water, and 14 to 15 feet at high water. The bay should not be entered with a south-west gale blowing, although a vessel can lie safely at the moorings at all times. The most conspicuous object in the neighbourhood is Bramfield hill, 634 feet high, and nearly 6 miles north-east of the bay. This hill, the highest land in the vicinity, has a round top, the land apparently sloping away on either side when seen from the south-westward. To enter Waterloo bay, when about 2 miles from the entrance, bring the beacons in line beai'ing N.E. by N., which lead in between the reefs, over the bar in the deepest water and to the moorings. The edges of the reefs can usually be seen. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Waterloo bay at about Ih. Om. ; springs rise about 6 feet. Telegraph and mail communication.— The telegraph station at Elliston has connection with the universal telegraph system. A weekly mail calls at Elliston, en route between Adelaide and the western ports of South Australia, The coast from Waterloo bay trends in a curve, 38 miles south- eastward to Drummond point, and consists principally of steep cliffs ; the only dangers near the coast being a reef on which the sea breaks heavily, extending nearly one mile off shore, 14 miles from Waterloo bay ; and some rocks in the sandy bight 6 to 8 miles further south-east. The conspicuous hills between Waterloo bay and Drummond point are Tungketta hill, 417 feet high, near the coast 11 miles from Waterloo bay ; mount Misery, 374 feet, nearly midway between Tungketta hill and Drummond point ; and Kiana cliff, steep and bold, 376 feet high, and nearly 6 miles north of Drummond point. Gap island, so named from its appearance, is a small islet, 93 feet high, and steep-to all round. It lies nearly 5 miles off shore, west of mount Misery. DRUMMOND POINT* is a prominent cliffy head projecting from the line of coast ; there is a small dry rock and some breakers close to its extremity, with 27 fathoms water on a sandy bottom, 1^ miles off it. * Named by Flinders after Captain Adam Drummond, R.N. See chart. No. 1.061. Chap. III.] DRUMMOND POINT.— COFFIN BAY. 153 The hillock at the point is 164 feet high ; that near the south point 147 feet ; mount Hope, 5 miles west of Drummond point, a wooded hill, 564 feet ; and mount Drummond, also wooded, and 6 miles south-east of Drummond point, 5G9 feet ; these are conspicuous landmarks in this vicinity. From Drummond point the coast trends S.E. by S. about 2 miles, having 10 fathoms on a rocky bottom one mile off it, to a point with a rock awash nearly one mile south of it. Thence the coast falls back to the north-east for a mile, forming a bight, from the head of which it trends S.S.E. 12| miles to the foot of mount Greenly, north- east of Coffin bay. This coast is sandy, and rises gradually to some woody ranges about 3 miles from the sea, and which terminate abruptly at about 2 miles to the southward of mount Greenly. Rocky islet, 50 feet high, lies S. by E. 6 miles from Drummond point, and 3^ miles from the land to the eastward. KRAUSE ROCK, with 8 fathoms on it, and 18 to 21 fathoms close around, lies S.W. by W. J W., 8^ miles from Drummond point, and W. by N. 8 J miles from Rocky islet. There are heavy breakers on this rock with a high swell. Sir Isaac point, the western point of Coffin bay, and the north end of Horse peninsula, is S. J W. 17 miles from Drummond point. The western part of Sir Isaac point is cliffy, with hills above, partially covered by vegetation, rising to a height of 170 feet. The eastern part of the point is lower, with a sandy beach at its base. There are 10 fathoms water half a mile from the point, except to the east and south-east. COFFIN BAY* extends nearly 8 miles to the eastward of Sir Isaac point, and is nearly G miles deep in a southerly direction. There is deep water in parts of it, but in so exposed a position that anchorage cannot be recommended there ; anchorage can only be obtained in this bay by small vessels, in 2 to 3 fathoms. From Sir Isaac point the coast trends south for 4 miles, and is generally low, with rocky points and sandy beaches. Thence E. | S. for 7 miles to Longnose point, being a sandy beach, only projecting slightly in places. At 2 miles from the south-west corner of the bay there are some conspicuous bare sand-hills close to the beach, the * Named by Flinders after Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin Greenly, Bart. See chart, No. 1,061 ; with plan, Coffin bay, scale m = 0"5 inch. 15:1: CAPE LEEUWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. III. highest of which is 150 feet. Longnose point is a narrow sandy peninsula 2 miles long, and nowhere more than 20 feet high. The eastern shore of Coffin bay may be said to commence under a hill called Frenchman Lookout, whence it trends south for one mile, and then curves slightly inwards 5 miles S.S.E. J E., where the cliffs end to the southward. As far as this the nature of the shore is rug§ed cliff, with wooded hills rising to various heights behind. Then it changes to a sandy beach, with a wooded bank at the back, and alters its direction to S.W. by S. for 1| miles, to a low point 1^ miles east from Longnose point. Aspect. — There are some remarkable hills inland on the eastern side of Coffin bay. Mount Greenly is 1,001 feet high, and N.E. | E. 9^ miles from Sir Isaac point. Viewed from the north or south this hill is a sharp peak ; from an east or west direction it has rather a long summit, falling suddenly to the northward, and sloping gradually with three drops to the southward. A line of rocky cliff' runs along the top of the hill on the seaward side and round the summit ; from the base of the cliff the hill's wooded sides slope down to the summit of the coast cliff. To the southward the next hill is Frenchman Lookout, which has three wooded summits of nearly equal height, all about half a mile from the coast. The highest and centre summit is 546 feet high, and S. ^ E. 3| miles from mount Greenly. Cliff hill, SJ miles S.S.E. from Frenchman Lookout, is very similar in appearance, having also three summits, the middle one of which is 586 feet high. Mount Button is E. by S. ^ S., 11 miles from Sir Isaac point, 901 feet high, and about 1^ miles inland from the south end of the cliff on the east side of Cotlin bay. Its top is rather more than half a mile long, and curves from the highest part of the west side to the eastward and southward. This hill slopes down equally in all direc- tions, and is well covered with shea-oaks and other trees. The Marble range, which runs in a uorth and south direction nearly 5 miles, is about 4^ miles eastward of Cliff hill, and has two remark- able rocky summits. One, at the north end, is 1,421 feet high, and the other, near the south end of the range, 1,317 feet, and very rocky near the top. Sounding's in Coffin bay. — From Sir Isaac point the 3-fathoms line runs about half a mile offshore for 1^ miles to the southward, it See chart, No. 1,061. Chap. III.] COFFIN BAY. — PORT DOUGLAS. 155 then forms a bight about 2 miles deep in a south-easterly direction, and comes out again to a point where there are only 2^ fathoms, S.E. by E. ^ E. 2h miles from the eastern part of Sir Isaac point ; there is only three-quarters of a fathom S.S.E. ^ E. 1|^ miles from the 2^ fathoms, and 14 to 15 fathoms will be found a quarter of a mile to the northward and eastward. From the point the 3-fathoms line trends S.E. for 2^ miles, aud then curves round with the shore, con- tinuing about IJ miles off as far as the south part of Cliff hill. To the northward of that, as far as Frenchman Lookout, there are 4 to 5 fathoms water within half a mile of the shore ; and then 10 fathoms at that distance on to mount Greenly. Directions for the anchorage.— Approaching Coffin bay from the southward, after Reef point bears south of E.S.E., keep mount Greenly open north of Sir Isaac point N.E. by E. J E., to clear all the reefs and foul ground offshore between Reef point and Sir Isaac point. The latter point may be rounded about half a mile off, and then bring the conspicuous bare sand-hill in the south-west part of the bay a little on the port bow, and steer for its western extreme S. by E. ^ E. Continue this course for 2 miles, or until a low sand- hill in the middle of a long sandy beach on the coast bears W.S.W. Then haul to the westward and anchor almost immediately in 2^ fathoms water, sjind and mud, with the low sand-hill bearing W.S.W., and Sir Isaac point N.N.W. I W. In working towards this anchorage to keep in not less than 2J fathoms, when standing towards the shore south from Sir Isaac point, that point should not be brought to bear north of N. by W. | W., and in standing to the eastward the sumniit of the conspicuous bare sand-hill should not be brought west of South. PORT DOUGLAS, the entrance to which is over a bar in the south-east part of Coffin bay, is an extensive sheet of water, with an average depth of from 2 to 4 fathoms, but its northern part is much blocked up by sand-banks. From the entrance the port extends south G miles, and then east 4 miles, with a general breadth of 2 to 4 miles from shore to shore. Mount Datton bay opens out on the north side of the eastern part of port Douglas ; it is 4 miles long north and south, and 1^ miles broad, with a general depth of 2 to See chart, No. 1,061. 156 CAPE LEEUWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. III. 3 fathoms. From the north part of Mount Dutton bay, a shallow bay extends nearly 3 miles farther to the westward and northward. A large sand-bank which dries in patches at low water extends to the eastward and southward of Longnose point. The eastern edge of this bank is the right hand side of the channel into port Douglas. The north point of the bank stretches well into Coffin bay, and is N.N.E. |- E., fully 2 miles from Longnose point, and one mile from the eastern shore of Coffin bay. The east point is E.S.E. 1|- miles, and the south point S. by W. 2^ miles from Longnose point, and only 4 cables from the western shore of port Douglas. Between the western edge of the bank and the shore near it, there is a deep pool which runs 2^ miles to the north-west, and is one mile wide in the middle, with depths from 2^ to 5 fathoms all over it. A bank, with less than one fathom on it, extends half a mile from the middle of the long sandy beach on the south-eastern side of the entrance to port Douglas, the north point of which bank is S. by E., nearly 4 cables from the north point of the sand-bank described above. On the eastern side of the north part of port Douglas a large irregular dry bank stretches 2 miles from the shore, the western edge of which is the left hand side of the channel into port Douglas for 5 miles from the entrance. The western point of this bank is E.N.E. half a mile from the southern point of the large western sand-bank ; from there the edge of the bank recedes towards the eastern shore to the south-east, and the deep water part of the port increases to more than a mile in width as far as two small rock islets, which lie in the middle of the port and S. by E. | E. 4^ miles from Longnose point. The western extreme of a bank connected with the eastern shore is E.N.E. 4 cables from the larger islet ; and the eastern extreme of a spit, which has as much as one fathom water over the greater part of it, extending off the western shore, is South nearly 4 cables from the same islet. There are IJ fathoms water east of this islet, 1^ fathoms south, and 2 fathoms west of it. A spit extends South three-quarters of a mile from the shore which trends West from the "West entrance to mount Dutton bay, and a bank nearly dries for about three-quarters of a mile from the whole of the southern shore of port Douglas, opposite the entrance of mount Dutton bay. Sen chart, No. 1,061. Chap. III.] MOUNT BUTTON BAY.— KILLIDIE BAY. 157 The islet which lies in the south-east part of port Douglas is 28 feet high, and surrounded by a dry bank which extends about half a mile east and west of it, and not more than 200 yards north and south. Buoys. — At the entrance to port Douglas, a red buoy is at the north end of the west spit, in 9 feet at low water, mount Dutton bearing E. by N. distant 2 miles ; and a black buoy at the north end of the east bank, in 6 feet at low water, mount Dutton bearing E.N.E. distant 2 miles. These buoys are small and cheese shaped. Mount Button bay. — The eastern shore of mount Dutton bay is steep-to, and the western may be generally approached to half a mile. A dry bank extends 4 cables from the round headland at the northern part of the western shore, and the north-east side of the upper part of this bay is shallow. The deepest water in the north part of mount Dutton bay is near the headland on the north side of that portion which runs west. A low rocky islet at the head of mount Dutton bay has no more than 2 feet water inshore of it. The country on all sides of Coffin bay is used for sheep stations, and a quantity of land west and south-west of mount Dutton is cultivated for wheat. The agricultural areas of lake Wangary and Wanow are studded with homesteads. The mail road, running as far as Fowler bay from Port Lincoln, passes within a mile of the north part of mount Dutton bay, and a track from the road comes down to the shore, where ther»? is a jetty 270 feet long, having at its outer end 4 feet at low water, from which cargo is usually shipped. Killidie bay. — At the eastern end of port Douglas a narrow channel connects it with Killidie bay, which is 3 miles long east and west, one mile broad, and very shallow. This bay is noted for the quality and abundance of its oysters, but as the dredging has been carried on all the year round, regardless of season, the mollusc was getting scarce. An Act, however, has been passed proclaiming a close season for oysters all over the coasts of the colony. There is a rocky bar at the entrance of Killidie bay nearly awash at low water. The depth of water is as much as 2^ fathoms in some parts of the bay, but it is so much occupied by sand and mud-banks, ^t'chart, No. 1,061. 158 CAPE LEEUWTN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. TTT. that local knowledge is necessary for its navigation even by very small vessels. Directions for port Douglas and mount Dutton bay.— Port Douglas is only available for vessels drawing 10 feet, as there is a depth of only 8 feet on the bar at low water, and on many days the rise of tide does not exceed ?> feet. If drawing more than 8 feet anchor in Coffin bay and ascertain the time of high water before entering port Douglas ; and on going in, the wind should be in such a direction as to allow a vessel to lie two points either east or west of South. Having rounded Sir Isaac point, or from Coffin bay, bring mount Dutton to bear E. by S. | S., and steer for it until the summit of mount Greenly is open to the right of all the summits of Frenchman Lookout, bearing N. ^ W. ; the vessel will then be less than three-quarters of a mile from the eastern shore, and should alter course to S. ^ E., keeping mount Greenly open to the right of Frenchman Lookout until mount Dutton is in line with the junction of the sandy beach and cliff on the eastern shore, bearing E. by N. ^ N. Leave the red buoy on the starl)oard side, and the black buoy on the port side. Then haul quickly to the west- ward, until mount Greenly is between the two summits seen of Frenchman Lookout, bearing N. J W. This mark leads midway between the two banks at the entrance to port Douglas, and should be kept on until the low south extreme of Longnose point bears W.S.W. The direction of the fairway of the channel is then S.S.E. for one mile, and then S.W. by W.^ W. for 1^ miles, or until mount Greenly is just over the extreme of Longnose point. No leading marks can be given for the last two courses of the main channel ; the channel is from 2 to 4 cables in width, and the edges of the banks on either side tolerably steep, and can generally be made out from aloft, or, when mount Greenly is over the extreme of Longnose point bearing N. ^ E., steer S. ^ W., and keep the above leading mark on until within half a mile of the western shore. The banks at the entrance to port Douglas being then cleared, alter course to S.E., to pass close to the south side of the rocky islets in the middle of the port. The stream from one hour after high to one hour after low water, runs very swiftly over the east point of the bank on the right hand side of the channel, and a good berth should be given it in conse- quence if entering while that stream is running. If the wind will See chart, No. 1,061. Chap. III.] PORT DOUGLAS, DIRECTIONS. 159 not allow a vessel to steer S.W. by W. J W., anchor in the first bend of the channel, and wait a convenient opportunity. From near the rocky islets steer S.E. by E. for 2 miles, or for a rocky point in the middle of the long sandy beach at the south-east part of port Douglas. A vessel will then be at the best anchorage in the port in 2] fathoms water, sand and mud, with the point at the western entrance of mount Button bay beariiig N.E. ^ N., and the small islet in the south-east part of port Douglas bearing East ; or, if wishing to go up mount Dutton bay, steer for the entrance about N.E., and keep rather on the eastern side in going up the bay. To clear the spit in the north part t)f the bay, running off the western shore, mount Dutton should be kept a little to the eastward of the rocky islet in the north part of the bay N. by W. ^ W., until the junction of the sand and cliff on the east side of the bay bears East, then steer N.W. until mount Dutton is just open to the westward of the rocky islet bearing N. | W., and anchor in 1| to 2 fathoms water, mud. A stranger should prefer port Lincoln, in Spencer gulf, about 40 miles to the south-eastward of Sir Isaac point, for procuring any of the supplies this part of the coast affords, as it is in every respect a more desirable anchorage, and affords perfect shelter from all winds. Tides and tidal streams.— It is high water, full and change, on the bar of Coffin bay at Oh. 45m. ; springs rise 6 feet ; at the en- trance to port Douglas at Oh. 55m. ; springs rise barely 5 feet. At the bar the streams make an hour after low and high water respectively. The stream runs in the direction of the channel at the entmnce to port Douglas, where the fairway is north and south, but across that part trending nearly east and west inside the entrance. The stream from one hour after high to one hour after low water, after a continuance of westerly winds, is so strong at the entrance that a vessel should not attempt to enter while it is running except with a fresh fair wind. Reef point. — From Sir Isaac point a rugged cliffy coast, with rocks and sandy beaches beneath, and sand-hills above, which in some places are covered with bushes, trends S.W. by S. 5J miles to Reef point, the most projecting part of the coast between Sir Isaac point and Whidbey point. fc_ ' — — — — — ■ >Sei' chart, Xo. 1,061. 160 CAPE LBEUWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. ITT. A. covered rocky reef, extending N.N.E. and S.S.W. 1^ miles, and on which the sea breaks heavily, lies off Reef point, from which point the north extreme of the reef bears N.N.W. ^ W. IJ miles, and the south extreme W. by S. ^ S. one mile. Rocky ground, with G to 8 fathoms water on it, and over which the sea breaks in westerly gales, extends as far as 2^ miles N.N.W. from Reef point. To avoid this and all the foul ground between Reef point and Sir Isaac point, after Reef point bears E.S.E., mount Greenly must be kept open north of Sir Isaac point bearing N.E. by E. i E. WHIDBEY POINT, which is S. by W. i W. 5] miles from Reef point, is fronted by low cliffs ; there is a round hill one mile back from the point, 181 feet high. The coast between Whidbey point and Reef point is rugged, cliffy, with rocks and sandy beaches beneath and sand hills above, which are in some places covered with bushes. A reef, on which the sea generally breaks, runs off the middle and eastern parts of this point for nearly three-quarters of a mile. There are 20 fathoms water one mile from Whidbey point, and 10 to 13 fathoms at that distance off shore between it and Reef point ; this part of the coast, however, should not be approached nearer than 2 miles, because of the heavy westerly swell that rolls in. Greenly island is a bold mass of granite, apparently inaccessible, with a peaked summit 755 feet high, W. by S. J S. 15^ miles from Whidbey point. The island is about 1.^ miles long W.N.W. and E.S.E. and half a mile wide at its broadest part ; it is nearly divided into two islands at its north-west part, the sea sometimes running through the division. A small rock about 200 feet high lies E. by N. h N. half a mile from the summit of Greenly island. There are 50 to 53 fathoms water one mile to the westward of Greenly island, 4G to 40 fathoms from it to 5 miles from Whidbey point, towards which the depth gradually decreases to 20 fathoms, and between 40 and 50 fathoms from Greenly island to within one mile of the Four Hummocks of the Whidbey islands. ROCKY or BEAGLE ISLAND lies S. by W. 4 W. 10^ miles from Greenly island ; it is a precipitous granite rock, 222 feet high, and one mile in circumference. iSVv? chart. No. 1,061. Chap. III.] WHIDBBY POINT AND ISLANDS. 161 A covered rock, which always breaks, lies W. J N. half a mile from the north point of the island, and rocks extend 2 cables from its southern part ; elsewhere the island appears to be steep-to. There are 45 to 53 fathoms water at the distance of rather more than a mile from Rocky island all round. WHIDBEY ISLANDS are to the southward of Avoid bay, and consist of the Four Hummocks, a rock to the eastward of them, Perforated island, and two islands near Avoid point. Four Hummocks are four steep rounded granite islands, with several small rocks amongst them, most of which are uncovered. The southern hummock is S. by W. ^ W. 12^ miles from Whidbey point, and E. by N. 15^ miles from Rocky island. It is 362 feet high, the most elevated of the Four Hummocks, and rather more than a mile in circumference. A large rock lies close to its south- east side. The passage between the southern and the two middle hummocks is 3 cables wide, and quite filled up with rocks, one of which is about 50 feet high. The two middle hummocks are nearly joined, and on most bearings appear as one island with two summits. Their joint extent is half a mile north and south, and about 2 cables east and west. The northern of these two hummocks is the higher, its summit being 288 feet above water. There is a clear channel, 6 cables wide, and with 15 to 26 fathoms water in it, between the two middle and northern hummocks. The northern hummock is N. by E. J E. nearly 2 miles from the southern, half a mile long, N.N.E. and S.S.W., a quarter of a mile broad, and 293 feet high. E. by N. 2 miles from this hummock is a bare rock, 75 feet high, and about half a mile in circumference, with 21 to 27 fathoms water between it and the Four Hummocks, within a mile of all of which there are 27 to 45 fathoms. PERFORATED ISLAND has a hole through it, nearly at the top of the island, about a quarter of a mile from its north point. The centre of Perforated island is S. by E. | E. 8^ miles from Whidbey point, and it is nearly midway between the Four Hummocks and Avoid point. 0t — - — — — ^ — — — — — — ■ ' ■ - See cliart, No. 1,061. SO 11712 L 162 CAPE LBBUWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. Ill The island is of a very irregular shape ; the heavy sea, which breaks on it, having washed the limestone, of which it is composed, into wild and rugged forms. It is IJ miles long N.N.E. and S.S.W. from 600 yards to 50 yards wide, and surrounded by steep cliffs nearly as high as the top of the island, which is 235 feet above water. The sea breaks heavily on a sunken reef, which extends W. by S. nearly a mile from the south point of the island ; and there is so much foul ground between E. by S. round by south to W.S.W. to the distance of 3 miles from its south point, that the island should not be approached nearer than 4 miles on any bearing to the northward of East or West. With the island bearing to the southward of East or West it is safe to approach to one mile. The depth of water between it and the outer island of the two off Avoid point is 13 to 23 fathoms, and there is a depth of 20 to 25 fathoms between it and Whidbey point. The outer of the two islands near Avoid point bears S.W. J W. 2i miles from that point, and is 5| miles from Perforated island. It is 209 feet high, about 1^ miles in circumference, and surrounded by limestone cliff. This island is steep-to, with the exception of a reef running N.N.W. 2 cables from its north point. The island nearer to Avoid point lies S.S.E. three-quarters of a mile from the south part of that point. The island and point are connected by a rocky ledge, the greater part of which is covered. This island is of limestone formation, 181 feet high, more than half a mile long, E.N.E. and W.S.W., and about 200 yards broad. A sunken reef extends W. by S. one mile from the west point of the island. Currents. — Between Greenly island. Rocky island, and Whidbey islands the currents are very strong, causing in many places about those islands a confused sea during and after a gale. Amongst the outer islands, from November to May, the current runs to the N.W. as much as 2 knots an hour after a continuance of south- easterly winds. From May to November, with westerly winds, it runs quite as rapidly to the eastward. AVOID BAY is 11 miles across from Whidbey point to Avoid point, and 4 miles in depth. The soundings average 10 fathoms one mile from any part of the shore of the bay, and from 18 to 24 fathoms in the middle. From the east part of Whidbey point to a point N.E. by E 4 miles from it the coast forms a bay, with low rocky See chart, Wo. 1,061. •Chap. III.] PERFORATED ISLAND. — AVOID BAT. 163 'Cliffs, and here and there a sandy beach. In some places sunken rocks • extend nearly half a mile from this part of the coast. A small rocky islet lies a quarter of a mile S. by E. from the latter point ; its sides rise quite smoothly from the water towards the centre, which springs up abruptly from the surrounding rock in the shape of a small dome, the summit of which is about 75 feet above the sea. The northern part of the last-mentioned point runs back about half 'a mile to the north-west ; and from there a sandy beach, with bare sand-hills behind rising to a height of 216 feet, curves to the eastward for nearly 3 miles. The coast then becomes cliffy, with green and wooded hills inland, (one of which is 254 feet high), for 3^ miles to the south-east, as far as a projecting point inside the Black rocks. Thence a sandy beach, with some bare and some wooded sand-hills behind, runs nearly 5 miles south-east, to the beginning of the cliffs of Avoid point. This beach is broken in the middle by two or three 'dark rocks which extend a short distance into the water. Black rocks are in the middle of Avoid bay, three-quarters of a mile from the projecting point mentioned above. The largest and highest is 154 feet high, and about three-quart«rs • of a mile in circumference. A reef, on which the sea breaks, extends S.E. 7 cables from the south point of this island, with a small rock .above water at the south-east extreme of the reef. A flat rock lies one cable W.N.W. from the large island, and a reef extends 3 cables farther in that direction, with another small rock at its north-west ' extreme. There are 5 to 9 fathoms water between the Black rocks and the shore, and 15 fathoms within a mile to seaward of them. AVOID POINT is S.E. by E. j E. 11 mih^s from Whidbey point, and there is a green hill above it 188 feet high. It is surrounded by limestone cliffs, about 150 feet high, on its north, west, and south- west sides, which change abruptly to sand-hills to the eastward of its south point. A rock on which the sea seldom breaks lies 3 cables N.E. from a rocky point which has a sand-hill above it, -on the north part of Avoid point. There is a flat rock above water close to the west part of Avoid point ; and a sunken rock, which nearly always breaks, lies W. | N. one mile from the flat rock ; with 9 to 11 fathoms water between, and 20 to 23 fathoms half a mile to the westward of the sunken rock. &?^ chart. No. 1,061. 80 11712 L 2 164 CAPE LEECTWIN TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. Ill- Clearings mark. — To avoid the sunken rock, when standing into Avoid bay, the western extreme of the outer island near Avoid point should not be brought to bear west of South, until the north end of Avoid point bears south of East. STUART POINT is S.E. by E. J E. 10^ miles from Avoid point. The summit of Stuart point is a round green hill, about 450 feet high^ and its cliff face about 400 feet from the sea to the top of the cliff. The COAST. — From the south part of Avoid point a sandy beach trends N.E. J J miles, and then runs in almost a straight line 8 miles S J], by E. to where the cliffs begin, nearly 2 miles from Stuart point. There is always a heavy surf on the beach between Avoid and Stuart points, and not less than 13 fathoms within a mile of the coast. Aspect. — Directly inland from Avoid point the hills are wooded,. and about 200 feet high ; at the back of the long sandy beach they are nearly bare sand, and extend inland 5 miles from the eastern part of the beach ; about 2 miles behind which they attain their greatest height, 540 feet. North 2^ miles from Stuart point is the summit of a wooded hill, which slopes down to the cliff north-west of Stuart point, and joins on to the sand-hills to the northward- This hill is 750 feet high, and the most elevated land between Whidbey point and cape Catastrophe. Stuart reef. — A dangerous reef, which is always covered, and only breaks heavily when there is much swell, lies S. by E. | E. 8^ miles from Avoid point, and S.W. by W. j W. 6| miles from Stuart point. The reef is about 800 yards long W.N.W. and E.S.E., and very narrow. There are 22 to 23 fathoms water close to it, and nearly all the way from it to the shore ; and 34 to 41 fathoms,, 2 miles to the southward of it. The COAST from Stuart point extends S.E. 10 miles, with no considerable indentation. It is all very rugged limestone cliff, about 400 feet high, rising in many places perpendicularly from the sea to its summit ; the hills above the cliff are from 50 to 100 feet higher, most of them being^ covered with coarse grass, with here and there bare sandy patches. Close under a green hill, 470 feet high and 6^ miles from Stuart point, is a remarkable cone of rock about 350 feet high, and almost JSee chart, No. 1,061. •Chap. III.] STUART AND CAPE REEFS.— CAPE WILES. 165 •detached from the adjacent cliff. It can only be seen when near the «hore north-west or south-east of it. There are 14 to 20 fathoms water within a mile of this part of the •coast, and deep water to seaward, with the following exceptions : — A rock which is covered, and which seldom breaks with S.E. winds, lies half a mile off shore, 4 miles S.E. of Stuart point. Cape reef, 21 feet above water, and extending a quarter of a mile north and south, lies S. by E. ^ E. 8 miles from Stuart point, and W. by N. | N. 4^ miles from the west point of cape Wiles. There are 40 fathoms water at less than a mile west of this reef, and 21 to 27 fathoms the same distance from it elsewhere. A small sunken rock, which breaks with a moderate swell, lies N.N.E. J E. 2 miles from the north point of the above reef, and nearly 2 miles S.W. by S. from the cone rock. There are 20 fathoms water midway between this rock and the shore, and 23 to 26 fathoms between it and 'Cape reef. CAPE WILES is a broad point, its southern face extending more than 3 miles east and west. Its west point is S.E. by S. 11^ miles from Stuart point ; from there the coast forms a small indentation to the northward, and joins the east point. The summit of the west part of the cape is a round stony hill 292 feet high, which slopes down to the shore. Low cliffs commence from the south point of the west part of the cape, and rise gradually, attaining their greatest •elevation at the east point of cape Wiles, where the scrub-covered summit, 468 feet high, shows just above them. A rock, on which the sea breaks, lies N.W. ^ W. 7 cables from the extreme west point of cape Wiles. And a reef above water extends 3 cables to the southward from the part of the cape northward of Liguanea island. There are two high rocks just detached from the east point of capo Wiles, which are conspicuous from Sleaford bay or the westward. A rock above water, 400 yards in extent east and west, lies 3 cableii South from the east point of the cape. There are 18 to 29 fathoms water between cape Wiles and Liguanea island, and deep water half a mile off all the rocks and reefs mentioned ^bove. See chsat, Ho. 1,061, 166 CAPB LBBUWm TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. III.. Ligruanea island is 1^ miles long north and south ; and half a mile broad, except at its south end, where it is narrow and irregularly shaped. All the coast of the island is cliffy, and its top is rather flat ; the^ highest part, at the south end, is 127 feet above the sea. - Its north point is S. by E. 2 miles from the west point of cape Wiles. The south extreme of a detached reef above water bears- S. by W. i W., half a mile from the south point of the island. There are 45 fathoms water one mile south of Liguanea island, and between 30 and 40 fathoms that distance east or west of it. SLEAFORD BAY, east of cape Wiles, is 8 miles across and 5 miles deep in a northerly direction. There are 10 to 20 fathoms- water a mile from the shore all round the bay. No anchorage can be recommended in any part of it, as a heavy swell always sets in,, and during bad weather the sea is very confused. Fishery bay. — From the east point of cape Wiles a high dark limestone cliff trends north 2 miles to Fishery bay. This bay is- about half a mile across at its entrance, and runs in a half a mile to the N.W., the shore being cliffy on either side, with a sandy beach occupying the head of the bay. An establishment for whale fishing was carried on in this bay in the early days of the colony. It has been long abandoned, the whales having become scarce on this part of the coast, although it is- occasionally visited by whalers from Tasmania. "Water. — There is good water behind the middle of the beach,, amongst the low sand-hills ; and although the bay cannot be recom- mended as an anchorage, a boat may easily land on the beach in moderate weather. The COAST. — From the north point of Fishery bay to a point N.E. by E. three-quarters of a mile from it, the coast forms a bay with cliffy coast, and a sandy beach in its north part. A breaking rock E. by N. half a mile from the north point of Fishery bay, lies OTitside the line joining the two outer points of the bay. The coast, which is rocky and sloping up to the top of a round green hill, about 300 feet high, anjd with two clumps of trees on its eastern side, then trends N. by E. for 2^ miles. It then runs East and E. by S. foi* Sag chart. No. 1,061. Chap. III.] . SLBAFORD BAY. 167 8 miles ; for 5 miles it consists of small sandy beaches, broken by bits of dark limestone cliff, with green wooded hills at the back rising to a height of about 250 feet. The remaining 3 miles is a sandy beach, with high bare sand-hills behind, stretching a mile inland, where they join some wooded hills, the highest of which is 280 feet above the sea. A quarter of a mile off the east end of the long sandy beach is a small rocky islet about 25 feet high. From there the coast rises in high cliffs, and curves to the southward for 2J miles to the east point of Sleaford bay, which has a green hill 340 feet high for its summit, with no trees on it, and is E. by N. 8^ miles from cape Wiles. Three-quarters of a mile S.E. by S. from the rocky islet mentioned above is another rocky islet, about 2 cables from the nearest cliff, and 180 feet high. Cobbler hill is a conspicuous landmark from the north-west part of Sleaford bay. It is N. ^ E. 11| miles from the east point of cape Wiles, conical in form, 640 feet high, and stands alone. North Side hill is also remarkable from the west part of Sleaford bay. See page 184. Sleaford mere is a lake of brackish water, nearly 3^ miles long, north and south, and one mile to half a mile wide ; it is divided near its centre into two branches, one trending southward and the other south-eastward, and both terminating within 100 yards of the head of Sleaford bay. Its northern extreme extends to about 2 miles south-west of some fresh- water pits, at the head of port Lincoln. The COAST from the east point of Sleaford bay trends E.S.E. 4 miles, and then S.S.E. 4 miles to West point of cape Catastrophe. The east point of Sleaford bay runs back three-quarters of a mile N.N.E., the cliff on that side being nearly 300 feet high ; there are then three small sandy beaches with rocky points between, and sand- hills behind. From off the middle beach a chain of low rocks and islets extends 2 miles south ; the highest of these islets is about 120 feet above water, and the south point of the outer rock, which is all large smooth boulders, is S.S.E. 1| miles from the east point of Sleaford bay. There are about 30 fathoms water at one mile from this rock to the southward of East or West from it. Eastward of the third beach the coast-line becomes bolder, the cliffs rising 400 feet above the sea under a wooded hill 640 feet high, See charts, No. 1,061 and No. 2,389rt, St. Vincent and Spenctr gulfs, louthern sheet, scale in = 0*24 inch. 168 CAPE LEEUWIX TO CAPE CATASTROPHE. [Chap. Ill about 2 miles farther on. The coast is bold and rocky the remainder of the distance to West point, the soundings being from 20 to 38 fathoms one mile ofiE shore. WEST POINT.—The south-west extremity of cape Catastrophe, a clifley headland, in lat. 35° 0' 30" S., long. 135° 56: 30" E., Snapper point, Adelaide, being in 138° 31' 0" E., rises to a smooth conical hill 460 feet high, clothed with vegetation. WILLIAMS ISLE, the north-west extreme of which lies S.S.E. one mile from West point, is about 3 miles in circuit, its south side being very rugged, with long ledges of rock running out from the cliffs ; there is a bay on the north side with a small sandy beach at its head. The top of the island is nearly flat, covered with stunted bushes about 2 feet high ; it is much burrowed by mutton-birds, and in the winter months is frequented by cape Barren geese. The bay on the north side of the isle is unsuitable as an anchorage, unless as a last resort. The passage between Williams isle and the mainland is quite clear, with 27 fathoms in mid-channel ; but a heavy sea and race extend across the passage. At 2 cables from the west side of the island there are 20 fathoms water, and 50 fathoms 1^ miles to the S.W. of it ; but on its parallel farther to the westward the depth is not so great, 40 fathoms, on a regular sandy bottom, being found at the distance of 2 to 16 miles in that direction. See charts, No. 1,061 and No. 2,389a. 169 CHAPTER IV. AUSTRALIA.— SOUTH COAST, SPENCER GULF. Variation in 1896. •Gambier islands - 4° 30' E. | Port Augusta - 5° 5' E. Nearly stationary. SPENCER GULF,* on the south coast of Australia, is 48 miles across at the entrance from cape Catastrophe to cape Spencer, and extends in a N.N.E. direction 180 miles to Port Augusta, at the head of the gulf, with navigable water for vessels of a large size. Although the entrance is 48 miles wide, this space is partly occupied by Thistle island, near the western shore, and the Gambier group, midway between that island and cape Spencer ; besides these, there lie in the •^offing to the south-west, the Low rocks and the straggling Neptune isles. Neptune isles consist of two groups, the North and South Neptunes. The South Neptunes are two isles, the centre of the south-eastern being in lat. 35° 20' 15" S., long. 136° 6' 45" E. This isle, which is barely 2 miles round, seems to be entirely composed of black-looking granite ; it is 120 feet high, with a little stunted vegetation. The other isle, which lies N.N.W. half a mile from that just •described, is 2 miles round, and 115 feet high ; it is about three- quarters of a mile long, north and south, and a quarter of a mile wide, .and also appears to be composed of black-looking granite. The passage between these isles is about one quarter of a mile wide, but it has two or three large rocks in it. The sea breaks so heavily on the south sides of these islands that the spray has been seen flying 40 or 50 feet over the top of the south-eastern isle. See charts, No. 2,759Z>, Australia, southern portion, scale d=\ inch ; and Nos. 2,889a and &, St. Vincent and Spencer gulfs, scale m = 0*24 inch, * Named by Flinders after Earl Spencer, who presided at the Board of Admiralty when the Investigator was commissioned. 170 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IT- The North Neptunes consist of an island with an islet and rocks ofiE it. The island lies N.N.W. ^ W. 5 miles from the south-eastern isle of the South Neptunes, it is 3 miles in circuit, and 160 feet high. It is nearly flat-topped, its south and south-west sides forming granite cliffs, against which the sea rolls very heavily. At a quarter of a mile east of the south point of the island is a rock on which the sea only breaks at times, but then with great violence. There is a bay on the east side of the island with a small sandy beach, on which there is heavy surf. An islet lies a quarter of almile to the east of the north-east point of this island, consisting of a mass of granite half a mile long, eaat and west, 200 yards broad, and 95 feet high. At half a mile off the east end of the islet there is a rock, which breaks heavily, more than 200 yards across. There are 40 to 50 fathoms between the North and South Neptunes,, and 56 fathoms, sand, at 2 or 3 miles to the southward of them. LOW ROOKS, North ^ miles from the North Neptune island,, are a straggling mass about 600 yards long, east and west, 50 yards- broad, and 30 feet high. N.E. by N. 4 cables from them is a small rock awash, with a heavy break upon it. There are 42 fathom*^ between the North Neptunes and Low rocks, and 32 to 44 fathoms in the channel between Low rocks and Thistle island. Caution. — As Neptune isles are rocky and surrounded by breakers, and Low rocks have little elevation, they should be care-^ fully avoided at night. GAMBIER ISLES,* N.E. by E. about 19 miles from the south- eastern Neptune isle, consist of Wedge isle and four small islets near it. Wedge isle is nearly midway between cape Spencer and Thistle island ; being visible from the distance of 30 miles, it may be seen by nearly every vessel passing into or out of Spencer gulf. It is 3 miles long, E.S.E. and W.N.W., with an average breadth of one mile ;. three of its sides are cliffs. West rock (awash), on which the sea always breaks, lies W. by S. J S. 4 cables from the north-west point;, and a reef with some sunken rocks extends more than a quarter of a mile from a low projection of the island, one mile to the south- See chart, No. 2,SS9a. * Named by Flinders after Admiral Lord Gambler, Chap. IV.J NEPTUNE ISLES. — QAMBIER ISLES. 171 eastward of that point. From the south-east end the island rises^ to the height of 662 feet, forming nearly a perpendicular cliff to the southward, which gives the island a wedge-like appearance from % distance. Wedge isle, principally formed of limestone, is covered with low bushes and casuarina trees, with a little grass, and has for some years- been used as a sheep-run. At present it is uninhabited. Water. — There was in 1873 a good stone house and several wellst of good water in the low land inside the beach, on the north-east side, and another well by the sand-hills near the north-west point. Ancliorage. — There is a sandy beach on the north-east side of Wedge isle, off which there is good anchorage in 5 or 6 fathoms water,, sheltered from N.W. and round westward to S.E., at about a quarter of a mile from the shore, with the house or east corner of the field on the island bearing South, and the north-west point N.W. ; landing on the beach is generally easy. Peaked rocks are two conical islets, one S.W. half a mile, and the other S.E. a quarter of a mile from the south-east end of Wedge^ isle. The outer rock is 212 feet, the inner 141 feet high, and both are much frequented by seals. Sontll-west rock, a mass of granite 70 feet high, is 1^ miles- from the south-west part of Wedge isle, with the west point of the island and the west end of North islet in line. This rock, which is. about one mile in circumference, is divided into two unequal parts by a cleft running N.N.E. and S.S.W. There is a clear channel, with 27 fathoms, between South-west rock and Wedge isle. Foul ground. — A rocky patch, with 12 fathoms water on it, lies S.E. nearly 4 miles from Wedge isle, with 28 to 30 fathoms all round it ; it is nearly circular, and about a quarter of a mile in diameter, with occasionally heavy breakers upon it, during and after west and south-west gales. Clearing" marks, — When on the shoalest part of the Foul ground, the west end of North islet is in line with the north-east point of Wedge isle, bearing N.W. by N., and the south side of the highest Peaked rock in line with the south-west point of the island, bearing N.W. by W. In order, therefore, to pass well to the See chart, No. 2,389a. 172 , SPENCEE GULF. [Chap. IV. northward of the Foul ground, keep the outer Peaked rock well open isouth of Wedge isle, or North islet well open north of the island ; ^nd to pass to the westward keep North islet entirely shut in. NortlL islet lies 1^ miles to the northward of Wedge isle, and is three-quarters of a mile long, east and west, half a mile broad, and 155 feet high. Landing is easy on its north-west side in fine weather. It has stunted vegetation and a few casuarina trees on it ; the whole islet is much burrowed by mutton-birds. There is a 9-fathoms channel between Wedge and North isles. Ward rock, which has 6 fathoms water over it, lies West three- quarters of a mile from North islet. This rock is less than 200 yards across each way, and rises nearly abruptly from the depth of 20 fathoms. Ward rock is dangerous in a heavy swell, as it then breaks violently at times ; in fine weather it does not show. Clearing: marks. — In proceeding between Ward rock and West rock, keep the high cliff of the east point just open of the north-west point of Wedge island, bearing S.E. by E. The north-west point of Wedge isle may be rounded close to, but a good berth should be given to the reef and sunken rocks extending from the low point one mile south-east of it, having cleared which, anchor off the sandy beach, as already directed. Middle and N.N.E. rocks are both awash, and lie respectively North one mile, and N.N.E. nearly 3 miles from North islet ; Middle rock being in line with the west extreme of North islet, the west points of Wedge isle and South-west rock. There are 17 fathoms between North islet and Middle rock, and 20 to 24 fathoms between the two rocks, which may be passed close to. Clearing marks. — To clear Middle and N.N.E. rocks to the westward, keep South-west rock its own breadth open of the west point of Wedge isle bearing S. by W. J W. (S. 14° W.) The eastern Peaked rock open of Wedge- isle bearing S. ^ W. (S. 6° W.) clears Middle and N.N.E. rocks to the eastward. Tides and tidal streams.— It is high water, full and change, at the Gambler isles, at 2h. Om. ; springs rise about 5 feet. The stream sets to the N.W. during the rising tide and to the S.E. during the falling tide, from less than half a knot to three-quarters of a knot. Sec charfc, ISo. .2,389tf . Chap. IV.] THISTLE ISLAND. 173*- THISTLE ISLAND* lies near the western shore, and forms part of the eastern side of Thorny passage, the south-east extremity of the island bearing about E. by S., distant 12J miles from the West point of cape Catastrophe. Thistle island is 9 miles long, north-west and south-east, three-quarters of a mile broad at the centre, increasing to- 2 miles in breadth towards each end. The centre of the island rises to the height of 772 feet, and may be seen in clear weather from the distance of 35 miles. Thistle island has from time to time been used as a sheep and' cattle run, but has not been found hitherto to answer ; owing, it is- stated, to the cattle and sheep eating some poisonous grass or herb which grows on the island ; otherwise it appears very fit for grazing purposes. In 1863 the island was deserted ; but there was a good^ weather-board house, just within the beach north of Snug cove ; in the garden were some wells of slightly brackish water. Waterhouse point, the narrow south-east extreme of Thistle island, is a rugged cliffy head 120 to 130 feet high, sloping gradually down to the northward on either side. An islet lies W.S.W. three- quarters of a mile from the point, at a quarter of a mile from the shore, with 6 fathoms between it and the point northward of it ; in a gale the water breaks right across. Race. — Waterhouse point is fronted with high black rocks and' very deep water, and the tidal streams sweep round the point at the rate of 2 knots, the north-going stream during the rising tide and the south-going stream during the falling tide ; the latter meeting the south-westerly swell, causes, with southerly winds, a dangerous race,, which is felt as far as 2 miles off the point. SOUTH ROCK, S.W. IJ miles from Waterhouse point, is- about 100 yards across ; it is just awash, and has always heavy breakers on it. There is deep water all round this rock, and 30 fathoms between it and the islet. Directions. — In rounding the south-east end of Thistle island give it a berth of more than 2 miles, to avoid South rock and the race off Waterhouse point. Waterhouse bay, on the eastern side of Thistle island, about one mile north of Waterhouse point, affords shelter for coasters in See chart, No. 2,389a. * Named by Flinders after tlie master of the Investigator, see footnote, page 181. 174 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. 3 fathoms water, sand, a cable from the beach, with the southern point of the bay bearing E.S.E. Care must be taken, when going in •or out, to avoid a rocky patch 200 yards long, east and west, which lies N.W. nearly one-third of a mile from the point, with its inner end on© cable from the beach. This patch only breaks at times, though part of it is nearly awash at low water. East coast. — From Waterhouse point to Horny point, about N.N.W. 3^ miles, the east coast of Thistle island consists of sandy beaches and rocky points with ledges running out, but with no dangers beyond 2 cables from it. The soundings deepen rapidly io more than 20 fathoms at IJ miles from this part of the coast. Whalers bay. — Homypoint, the south -eastpoint of Whalers bay, is rocky, with a limestone cliff, and points to the northward ; on its western side the land recedes, and a fine sandy beachforms Whalers bay, which affords good anchorage for coasters, in 4 fathoms water, sand, sheltered from West round southward to East, with Horny point bearing E.N.E., distant a quarter of a mile. Supplies. — There is good schnapper fishing inside Horny point, and firewood may be cut in abundance. North-east coast. — W. by N. about one mile from Horny point the high cliffs at the centre of Thistle island commence and continue 2 miles in a N.W. direction, after which alternate beaches and points extend to Observatory point, the north end of Thistle island, bearing N.W., distant 6 miles from Horny point. Observatory point is a low projection of a long sandy beach, -extending on one side S.E. one mile, and on the other S.W. an equal •distance. From Observatory point a sand-flat extends three-quarters of a mile to the north-west, studded with rocky patches, some not having more than 5 feet over them at low water. There are occasion- ally breakers on this flat with strong south or south-west winds. Anchorage. — On the north-east side of Thistle island the soundings gradually shoal to the north-westward, and a vessel can get good anchorage in 7 fathoms on a sandy bottom, with Observatory point bearing W.N.W., distant three-quarters of a mile, and the south-east end of the beach S. by W. or South. Here the tidal See chart, No. 2,389a. Chap. IV.] THISTLE ISLAND. \ rrr::^ ^75 ^streams never run more than half a knot, Bometimes to the S.E. during th« rising tide, and to the N.W. during the falling tide. See page 181. SOTltll-west coast. — Between Waterhouse point and the point about one mile to the westward, off which is the islet before noticed, the coast forms a deep bay, with two small sandy beaches at its head ; the water shoals gradually as they are approached ; but the bay does not afford good anchorage, as the south-westerly swell sets into it. Fossil point. — From the west point of the bay just described the south-west coast of Thistle island takes a N.W. direction 2| miles to Fossil point, at a quarter of a mile to the south-eastward of which is a gully containing fossil trees of Tarious sizes. From Fossil point the coast forms a bay to the eastward about half a mile deep, and then trends north-west 3 miles to a sandy beach ; it is formed of reddish limestone cliffs, 600 to 400 feet high. The cliffs, which are highest in the bight, fall gradually and assume a white -appearance, being formed of white limestone nodules and sand on a :granite base. Rocks, on which the sea occasionally breaks, extend half a mile south from the beach. The prevailing south-west winds have blown the sand from the beach nearly across the island to the north-eastward, forming a causeway of white sand, which, at the distance of three-quarters of a mile from the beach, has formed a hill 268 feet high ; it is very remarkable. North-west coast. — The coast from the sandy beach trends W. by S. one mile to a high white cliff, with a ledge of rocks, on which the sea breaks, extending 400 yards to the southward. Between this cliffy projection and a point lying N.N.W. one mile from it, the 'Coast forms a bay, and thence becomes rocky, with whitish limestone -cliffs, gradually falling to the northward, and takes a north-east ■direction for about a mile to the south-west point of Snug cove, a boat harbour between this point and the south-west end of the beach extending from Observatory point. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Snug cove, about 2h. Om. ; springs rise 5 feet ; but the rise and time of high water seem to be influenced a great deal by the wind ; strong westerly winds apparently producing the highest tides. The times of high and low water seem to be regular for the first week after full and See chart, No. 2,889a. 176 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV*. change ; after which there is only one tide in 24 hours for five or six days, with high water from 8h. p.m. to midnight, when the tides again become regular. Hopkins isle, known also as Snake isle, lies three-quarters of a mile off the white cliffs at the north-west end of Thistle island, to which its own coast bears a great resemblance. Hopkins isle is one mile long, north-east and south-west, half a mile broad, and rather flat-topped, with perpendicular cliffs ; it is 200 feet high, its sandy surface being burrowed all over by mutton birds. The passage between Thistle and Hopkins islands is about half a mile wide, but it is blocked up with rocks and breakers, the rollers during the south-going stream frequently breaking right across. A few detached rocks lie nearly half a mile northward of the island,, and abreast of the landing-place, which is on a small patch of sand. This island is dangerous to approach from the southward, as the rocky shoal connecting it with Thistle island extends nearly three- quarters of a mile south-westward of it towards Smith isle. There is a sunken rock on this shoal S. by W. 4 cables from Hopkins isle, upon which the sea breaks heavily, except in fine weather, when it does not break at all. Reported shoal. — A fisherman at Port Lincoln has reported (1896) that he often fishes on a shoal, with a depth of about 4 fathoms on it and which only breaks in southerly gales, situated about 2 miles S.S.E (S. 22° E.) from Hopkins isle. This position must be considered doubtful. BLACK ROOK, N. | W., 1| miles from Observatory point, is awash at high water, but at low water appears as a mass of black granite, 6 feet above water, and 50 yards in circumference. Rocks under water extend from Black rock for half a cable all round, and a ledge projects 2 cables to the northward ; there are 4 fathoms water between the rock and Observatory point. There is seldom much broken water on Black rock, and it is not easily distinguished from the southward late in the after- noon, until half a mile from it. From Black rock the cliffy extremes of Hopkins and Thistle islands appear a little open, bearing S.S.W., and the rocky projection south-east of Observatory point is in line with the highest part of Thistle island, bearing S.S.E. J E. See chart, No. 2,389«. Chap. IV.] HOPKINS ISLE. — PORTER ROCK.— CAPE CATASTROPHE. 177 Clearing" marks.— Hopkins isle kept well open of Thistle island clears Black rock to the westward, and the projection south-east of Observatory point kept between the high cliffs and Borny point, leads between Black rock and the flat north-west of Observatory point. PORTER ROCK, N.N.E. ^ E. If miles from Black rock, with the cliffs of Thistle and Hopkins islands just opening S.S.W. J W., is a covered patch 400 yards long and 150 yards across, the least water on it being towards its north end, where there are several knobs with only 3 feet on them at low water ; towards the south end there are 2 fathoms Caution. — This rock is very dangerous, as it lies in the direct track of vessels from the south-east proceeding to port Lincoln, with seldom sufficient breakers upon it to attract attention, and frequently there is no broken water upon it for some days. From Black rock to Porter rock there are 6 fathoms, on a rocky bottom, and soundings in 7 fathoms extend north-west one mile from Porter rock ; with these exceptions there are 10 and j 1 fathoms about it. Clearing" marks. — Porter rock is cleared to the eastward by keeping Hopkins isle closed in by Thistle island ; and to the westward by the same islands being kept well open of each other ; the north of the high- wooded conical hills north of Memorj' cove open north of Taylor isle, bearing West, leads three-quarters of a mile northward of this rock. CAPE CATASTROPHE.*— The general aspect of the coast about this cape is high and rocky, with cliffs of reddish and white limestone 50 to 100 feet high, behind which the land rises to conical hills densely wooded with gum scrub to their summits. From West point the coast. trends to the north-east 8 miles to the cape, and forms two small exposed sandy bays, separated by some projecting cliffs of whitish and level aspect. Behind the coast the land rises to a rocky range of considerable elevation, upon which there are a few trees. Cape Catastrophe is high and rockj-, with a ledge of black rocks, on which the sea breaks heavily, extending about 100 yards from it. TIDAL STREAMS and RACE.— Strong tidal streams run 8ee charts, Xos. 2,389 fathoms, Fi'om 20 to 24 fathoms in the southern part of Thorny passage the soundings gradually decrease to about 11 fathoms westward of Porter rock. Smith isle, the south of these small islands, lies E. ^ N. 1^ miles from cape Catastrophe, and S.W. nearly 2 miles from the centre of Hopkins isle ; it is of an oval form, and flat-topped, half a mile long, N. by W. and S. by E., and 400 yards broad ; it is 73 feet high, and covered with stunted vegetation. Smith isle is steep-to, with more than 20 fathoms water within a cable of it. Lewis isle, North 1^ miles from Smith isle, differs in aspect from the other islands in Thorny passage, being round, peaked, and 128 feet high, while the others are all flat-topped. Lewis isle is a cfuarter See eliarts, Nos. 2,389« and &, and No. 784, port Lincoln, scale m. = 2*0 inclies. SO 11712 M2 180 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. of a mile long, N.N.W. and S.S.E., and little more than 200 yards, broad, with 13 and 14 fathoms water close to it. Little islet, N.W. half a mile from Lewis isle, is a mass of black granite of irregular form, 27 feet high, and about 150 yards in diameter. Caution. — It is dangerous to pass between Little and Lewis isles, as the tidal streams sweep from one to the other at the rate of more than 3 knots, with strong eddies and ripples. With a strong north- going stream these ripples extend more than half a mile north from Little isle. GRINDAL ISLE, W. by N. i N. nearly 4 miles from Observa- tory point, and 2 miles from the land to the Avestward, is rather more than three-quarters of a mile long, north and south, and half a mile broad. It is 84 feet high, flat-topped and covered with detached bushes, which seem to spring up from a soil of white limestone lumps, and although apparently without a blade of grass, the island is used as a sheep run. Some rocks awash lie off the north-east point ; and a coral ledge, with 4 to 7 fathoms water on it, extends three-quarters of a mile from the north end of Grindal isle ; but there are 9 to 10 fathoms one cable from all other parts of it. TAYLOR ISLE,* N.W. i W. IJ miles from Grindal isle, is the northern island in Thorny passage, it is 1^ miles long, north and south, and about half a mile broad ; the highest part, near the north end, is 227 feet high. Taylor isle is rocky, with its eastern side forming a high cliff ; and there is no other beach than a small one at the north-west point. It is mostly covered with scrub ; the south end is grassy, and the island has been used as a sheep run. A small islet lies 3 cables off the north end of Taylor isle, with only 7 feet water between them ; and a similar islet lies off the south end of Taylor isle, from which it is separated by a boat passage. Taylor isle is steep-to, except off its north-west side, where a sand- flat extends a quarter of a mile off shore to the islet. There is a clear channel IJ miles wide, with 11 fathoms water, between Taylor and Grindal isles ; and that between Taylor isle and the mainland, which is IJ miles wide, with 10 to 8 fathoms, is equally free from dangers. See charts, Nos. 2,389« and b. * Thia isle is named after the midshipman, and the six isles nearest cape Catas- trophe are named after the six men, lost from the Investigator. See footnote, page 181. chap. TV.] TAYLOR ISLE. — THORNY PASSAOE, DIRECTIONS. 181 Anchorag'e. — There is good anchorage for large vessels, in 9 fathoms water, marl, with the south point of Taylor isle bearing S.E., and a high and remarkable striped limestone cliff on the mainland bearing about S.W. TIDES and TIDAL STREAMS.— It is high water, full and change, in Thorny passage, at noon ; springs rise 6 to 8 feet. The tidal streams run North and South, through Thorny passage, at the rate of 2 or 3 knots, and one knot between Taylor isle and the main- land at springs. In the vicinity of the isles, between cape (Catastrophe and Thistle island, there are tide-ripples, which are so violent as to swamp a boat.* Between Observatory point and Porter rock the stream sets to the north-east during the rising tide, and to the south-west during the falling tide, about 1^ knots ; but at the anchorage about one quarter of a mile eastward of Observatory point, the stream was sometimes found setting to the south-east during the rising tide, and to the north-west during the falling tide, at about half a knot at springs, with no regularity, the stream frequently running one way all day and night. DIRECTIONS. — Thorny passage is very seldom used, there being little trade between Port Lincoln and any ports to the west- ward ; and it cannot be recommended to strangers, as the wind frequently dies away in the passage with a south wind outside and some other wind in Spencer gulf, leaving a sailing vessel to the full influence of the tidal streams in deep water. When proceeding northward through Thorny passage, with a strong fair wind, pass cape Catastrophe at the distance of about 4 cables, and then steer North, going between Grindal and Taylor isles. To enter Thorny passage by the narrow channel between Smith and Hopkins isles, the rock southward of Hopkins isle will be cleared at the distance of half a mile, in 27 fathoms water, by keeping the east side of Lewis isle touching the west side of Grindal isle, bearing N. by W., until cape Catastrophe opens north of Smith isle, bearing W.S.W. See charts, Nos. 2,389« and h. * In these tide-ripples H.M.S, Investigator, Captain Flinders, lost her master, a midshipman, and six men, by the upsetting or filling- of a boat that was crossing over from Memory cove to the ship, at anchor off the north-west side of Thistle island, which renders care and daylight necessary in crossing this track, especially with a weather tide.— Flinders' " Terr. Aust.," vol. i. p. 135. 182 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV DANGEROUS REEF, the centre of which is N. J W. nwrly 14 J miles from the south point of Thistle island, E.S.E. 11 j miles from cape Donington, and S. by W. ^ W. 8^ miles from Stickney island, is composed of four large rocks above water extending W. by S. 6 cables, and S.E. 7 cables from the centre of the largest one ; none of them being more than 200 yards broad. The highest rock is about 12 feet above water, and can be seen from a distance of G miles ; there are several small rocks above water between the large ones. There are 10 to 14 fathoms water half a mile off the reef all round, and between it and Stickney island are 12 to 16 fathoms. Reported shoal. — A fisherman at Port Lincoln has reported (1896) that he often fishes on a shoal, with a depth of about 12 feet on it and which only breaks in southerly gales, situated about 2i miles S.S.E. (S. 22° E.) from Dangerous reef. This position must be considered doubtful. HOWARD ROCK is W.S.W. 2f miles from the centre of Dangerous reef, between it and which there are 10 to 12 fathoms water. The rock is not more than 50 yards across, with 9 feet least water on it, and 7 to 9 fathoms close-to all round. It very seldom breaks. The distance between it and Porter rock is 4J miles, with depths of 9 to 11 fathoms. CAPE DONINGTON, is the north-east point of a headland, on the south-east side of the entrance to port Lincoln, which extends about 4 miles to the northward from Maclaren point, with a breadth of three-quarters of a mile. From the cape the land rises to its wooded summit, 175 feet, half a mile to the south-west ; the north- west side of the headland is cliffy. This cape was so named by Flinders after the town Donington, near Boston in Lincolnshire, where he was born in 1774. Doning-ton reef. — A rock 10 feet high, lies N.N.E. ^ E. 3 cables from cape Donington ; there are 5 fathoms water 2 cables from the cape towards the rock. The reef extends N. |^ W. a quarter of a mile from the rock. There is one fathom water on the north part of the reef, and 6 to 7 fathoms close to its north, west, and east sides. PORT LINCOLN. — The harbour known as port Lincoln con- sists of Boston bay, port Lincoln proper and Spalding cove. The Sec charts, Nos. 2,389^' and h, and No. 784. Chap. IV.] DANGEROUS REEF. — HOWARD ROCK.— PORT LINCOLN. 183 usual^anchorage is off the township of Port Lincoln, situated in the south-west part of Boston bay. Port Lincoln is the finest harbour in South Australia, having ample room for a large number of vessels of heavy draught to lie perfectly land-locked ; the land, however, in its immediate vicinity is poor, and it has never had a large population. Life saving' apparatus. — A rocket apparatus is maintained at Port Lincoln, and in the event of a vessel being stranded at or near the port, and the lives of the crew in danger, assistance will, if possible, be rendered from the shore. Spalding" cove, between cape Donington headland and Surfleet point, extends 3 miles south from the former, and is nearly 1^ miles broad throughout. The general depth to within one mile of its head is from 5 to 8 fathoms. Its shores consist of low rocky points and sandy bays ; on its eastern shore there is a good deal of sandy cliff, with scrubby rises at the back. There are no dangers in Spalding cove, and anchorage anywhere, the best is in the the bay south of cape Donington summit. With a strong northerly wind there is a short sea in the cove. Surfleet point, S.S.W. f W. a little more than 2 miles from the west part of cape Donington headland, is the west point of Spalding cove, and the north-east point of port Lincoln proper. Bicker islets are two, each about half a mile in circumference and 30 feet high ; lying N. | W. half a mile and nearly one mile respectively from Surfleet point. The north islet has 7 to 8 fathoms water at rather more than one cable from its north, west, and east sides. A ledge of rocks runs S. J E. from its south-east point half- way towards the south islet, between which and the extreme of the ledge are 2 fathoms. The south islet is steep-to on its west side ; rocks extend 50 yards from its north side ; the east side should not be approached nearer than a quarter of a mile, and a stony bank extends S.E. 200 yards from its south-east point. There are 4 fathoms water midway between the south islet and Surfleet point. See chart, No. 784. 184 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. PORT LINCOLN PROPER is situated between Kirton and Surfleet points, and is more than 7 miles in depth in a south-west direction. The soundings in it are generally from 3 to 4 J fathoms. Stamford hill is 471 feet high, and the most conspicuous feature on the south-east side of port Lincoln proper. Its top is a quarter of a mile long north and south ; the sides are covered with scrub. On its highest part is a monument of white marble erected by Sir John Franklin, R.N., in memory of Captain Flinders, R.N., the discoverer of South Australia. North. Side hill has a conical summit, with a large boulder on one side, is 6M feet high, and the only conspicuous hill on the west side of the port. It is the southern summit of the range to which Winter's hill, N. ^ E. 3 miles, and mount Liverpool, N. by E. ^ E. 23 miies, belong. The coast from Surfleet point trends S.W. by W. ^ W. nearly 1^ miles to a round rocky point under Stamford hill, there being two sandy beaches between. It then runs S.W. by S. 2| miles, and W. by S. nearly 2 miles, to near Horse rock, and consists of rocky points and sandy beaches, with low scrub-covered rises at the back, over which the sand-hills behind Sleaford bay are visible. From the point near Horse rock the direction of the coast is W. ^ S. for more than 3 miles to the sandy beach at the head of the port ; it consists of low limestone cliffs, with hills covered by mallee scrub rising directly from them. Between Surfleet point and a mile from the head of the port there are 3 fathoms or more water anywhere half a mile oft' shore. From the north end of the sandy beach the low limestone coast trends N.E. ^ N. 4^ miles to the west end of a long sandy beach, where it turns to the eastward and south-east, forming a bay 1^ miles across. A flat dries to nearly one mile off this long beach, and there is not more than one fathom water north of a line W. ^ N. from the east point of the bay across it. The north-west part of port Lincoln proper is generally shallower than the south ; the edge of the 3-fathoms bank runs from close south of Grantham island to a spot, where thei'e are 2| fathoms, N.W. one mile from the Horse rock, and thence continues quite one mile off shore to the head of the port. See chart, No. 784. Chap. IV.] PORT LINCOLN. 185 A sandy spit, which dries, extends 600 yards off shore from the sandy beach, N.E. IJ miles from the head of the port. A shoal, with 3 fathoms water on it, and 200 yards across, lies West IJ miles from Horse rock, and S.W. J W. 2J miles from the south-west point of Grantham island. There are 4 to 4=^ fathoms for half a mile to the northward and eastward of the patch, but not more than 3| fathoms to the southward of it. Horse rock is S.W. by W. | W. 4J miles from Stamford hill, and S. by W. I W. rather more than 1^ miles from the south-west point of Grantham island, between it and which are 4 to 4| fathoms. The rock is of small extent, and not more than 2 feet above high water ; between it and a point S.E. ^ E. 3 cables from it, is a sandy spit with 2 feet on it at low water. Grantham Island, the centre of which is West 3 miles from Stamford hill, is three-quarters of a mile long N.E. by N. and S.W. by S., a quarter of a mile broad, and 50 feet high. Its coast is cliffy, with rocks extending a short distance off ; it is covered with scrub, and rabbits abound on it. There are one to If fathoms water between the island and the land north-west of it ; the south-east side is steep-to, there being 4J to 5 fathoms one cable off it. The COAST from the point near Grantham island takes the direction of N.E. i N. for 2 miles to the east point of Porter bay, and is formed of low cliff, with small sandy beaches. There are two slightly projecting points between, each having a scrub -covered hill about 150 feet high behind it. There are 5 to 6 fathoms water a quarter of a mile off the coast to the north-east of Grantham island. A bank, with 3j fathoms least water obtained on it, lies S.S.W. i W. 2 miles from the south point of Boston island ; there are 5 to 6 fathoms all round it, but another patch with 4 fathoms water, mud, lies N.W. by W. | W. 4 cables from it. DIRECTIONS for PORT LINCOLN PROPER.— Between Boston island and cape Donington. With a fair wind it is better to pass between cape Donington and the rock oft' it, rather than north of the rock. In passing north of the rock, to clear the Donington reef, do not iSee chart, No. 784. 186 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. bring the rock south of S. by W. or in line with the east side of cape Donington, until the summit of South Bicker islet is open to the right of cape Donington headland, S.W. ^ S. If drawing less than 21 feet there is then nothing to avoid until to the westward of Grantham island. When standing towards the north- west shore of port Lincoln proper to keep in not less than 3 1 fathoms, tack when the north end of South Bicker islet is nearly in line with the south end of Grantham island, N.E. by E. ^ E. To clear the 3-fathoms shoal S.W. of Grantham island, the summit of North Bicker islet in line with the south end of Grantham island, N.E. by E., leads 3 cables north-west of it in 4 fathoms ; and the south-east point of Boston island in line with the south end of Grantham island, N.E. } E., leads to the south-east of it in 3| to 4 fathoms. Anch.orag'e. — There is good anchorage anywhere in port Lincoln proper, according to draught. The anchorage at the head of the port where wool is shipped from the beach, is in 4 fathoms, with North Side hill bearing North, and a black point at the south end of the beach at the head, W. by S. ; and in 2J fathoms, at a little more than half a mile from the beach, with the same objects bearing N. by E. and W.S.W. respectively. Boston island is nearly 4 miles long N. by W. and S. by E., and 1^ miles broad at its widest part ; it is prettily wooded with shea- oaks and small gum trees, and in the winter covered with very green grass. The island is generally hilly, its highest point being 319 feet high. Maria point, the north end of the island, is low and rocky, the end of a narrow projection about 40 feet high. On the west coast, rather more than half a mile from Maria point, is a small white cliff, with a house near ; a rocky reef with 3 feet water on it runs W.S.W. nearly 3 cables from this cliff ; it is 200 yards broad, and has 4^ to 5 fathoms close to. The west side of Boston island is composed of sandy bays and sloping points, with low rocks at the water's edge, and except near the reef mentioned there are 8 fathoms a quarter of a mile off it. The south point is low and very narrow ; a reef with 1^ fathoms projects S.S.E. one cable from it. Between the south point and a point N.E. by E. ^ E. IJ miles from it, the coast bights in nearly three-quarters of a mile, forming a bay with to 8 fathoms about 2 cables from the shore. See chart, No. 784. Chap. IV.] BOSTON ISLAND. — BOSTON BAY. 187 Rocks extend off the east point of the island, N.E, by E. J E. 2 cables. The east side of the island is rather steeper than the west, and has 8 to 10 fathoms water a quarter of a mile off, except about Kangaroo reef, off Maria point. Kirton point is more than half a mile broad facing the north- east, and is W. | N. 2 miles from the south point of Boston island, the water between being 6 to 9 fathoms. The summit of the point is a round scrubby hill 220 feet high. There are G to 8 fathoms 2 cables off the point. Porter bay, south of Kirton point is nearly one mile across and three-quarters of a mile in depth. The head of the bay is a sandy beach, at the centre of which the waters of an extensive swamp at the back discharge themselves. Off the beach there- are 4 fathoms more than half a mile out. There is a scrubby hill 206 feet high, south of the beach. The south shore is low rocky cliffs and sandy beaches ; the hills behind are covered with mallee scrub, good for fuel. Rocks uncovered at low water, and foul ground extend a quarter of a mile off the east point of the bay. BOSTON BAY is included between Kirton and Boston points, and protected seawaid by Boston island. The dei)th in the greater part of it is from 9 to G fathoms. It is free from danger, with the exception of the following : — Kang*ar00 reef, a rocky patch extending between N.E. J N. and E. by N. nearly 6 cables from Maria point. Its shallowest part is a rock awash at low water N.E. by E. |^ E. 4 cables from Maria point ; and it has one to 3 fathoms over it, with 5 to 8 close to. The channel between it and Boston point is one mile v/ide, with 8 fathoms in it. A bank, with 3^ fathoms least water on it, bottom soft mud over rock, lies N.N.E. i E. If miles from Port Lincoln jetty end, and one mile from the western shore of the bay. It is 600 yards long N.W. and S.E., 200 yards broad, and has 7J to 8J fathoms close-to all round. Set chart, No. 784. 188 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. Port Lincoln township is situated clo»e to the sea in the valley between Kirton point and the range continuing south from Winter's hill. There is a jetty 700 feet long, having a crane on it, with 11| feet water near the end, on its Avestern side. Population in 1891, 402 persons. The weekly steam vessel between Port Adelaide and Port Augusta discharges cargo alongside, and so do the small craft trading there. Very good water can be obtained at a spring on the beach, N.N.W. 8 cables from the jetty end ; and provisions at the stores. Port Lincoln and the whole district to the westward is rather isolated from the rest of the colony. The exports of Port Lincoln are principally wool, wheat, and oysters, the latter being carted overland from the inner waters of Coffin bay ; much of the trade which might go to Port Lincoln is shipped at different points along the coast to the northward, and land carriage thus avoided ; the coasting steam vessel calling in anywhere where cargo is collected. There is a telegraph station at Port Lincoln. From Kirton point a sandy beach which fronts the township trends West half a mile, and N.W. half a mile ; the coast then trends Korth 6 miles in almost a straight line to the north-west part of Boston bay ; it is composed of red sandy cliffs, with stony and sandy beaches at their base, and may be approached anywhere to half a mile. A wooded range slopes down to this part of the bay, cultivated near the shore ; it is lowest behind the north-west part of the bay, and rises gradually to the southward, attaining its greatest elevation at Winter's hill, which is 771 feet high, with a long flat summit, and is 1 J miles inland from the south-west part of the bay. From the north-west part of Boston bay (behind which is the small village of- North Shields) the coast turns to the eastward, and is a long sandy beach, with low sand-hills behind for 2^ miles ; from the east end of the beach to Boston point it is S.E. 2 miles, the coast being sandy beaches and low rocky points, with a hill 170 feet high, above, and sloping gradually down to Boston point. Boston point on the north-east side of Boston bay is broad and low. It is N.E. by N. 1| miles from Maria point, and there are 7 fathoms water at the distance of one cable from it. The peninsula which runs out to Boston point has two round See chart, No. 784. Chap. IV.] PORT LINCOLN. — BOSTON BAY, DIRECTIONS. 189 grassy hills on it ; between it and the mainland is a narrow neck of land partially covered with vegetation, DIREOTlONSi— -t^or thfe north entrance between Bdstoh point aild Boston islatid, Boston point may be rounded close-to; North Side hill open to the right of Maria point S.W. ^ S. (S; 39° W») clears the Kangaroo reef to the westward. "To clear Kang^roO reef to the eastward keep mount Gawler in line with the eastern extreme seen of the long sandy beach in the north part of Boston bay, N.N.W. I W. (N. 31° W.). This mark leads half a mile north-east of the reef in 10 fathoms. To clear the reef in the bay, off the cliff point of Boston island, keep Boston point open of Maria point until the white cliff bears to the north of N.E. by E. To clear the 34-fathoms bank in Boston bay. North Si fie hill in line with the jetty S.W. 1 S. (S. 39° W.), leads a quarter of a mile south-east of it in 8 to 9 fathoms water ; and the Roman Catholic chapel, which is somewhat elevated, and half a mile inland from the jetty, in line with the outer end of the jetty S. by W. J W. (S. 14° W.), leads a quarter of a mile west of it in 9 fathoms. By the entrance between cape Donington and Boston island. — For rounding cape Donington directions have been given in those for port Lincoln proper. In working into Boston bay to avoid the bank S.S.W. from the south point of Boston island ; when standing to the southward in that vicinity tack when the summit of cape Donington is in line with the north side of North Bicker islet E.N.E. (N. 67° E.), and, if of draught requiring more than 4 fathoms, do not go within half a mile of the east point of Porter bay. Give the south point of Boston island a berth of a quarter of a mile, and keep the same distance off Kirton point and the beach to the westward. Anchorag'e. — There is anchorage almost anywhere in Boston bay, well protected with good holding ground. The usual anchorage is off the township, with the jetty bearing S.W. i S. (S. 39^ W.), in 2J to 3 fathoms one cable off, and 5 to S fathoms 4 to 6 cables off. The bottom is mud and shells. TIDES and TIDAL STREAMS.— It is high water, full and change, in Boston bay at Ih. 50m., springs rise 6 feet. There is very little tidal stream in any part of port Lincoln. At 2 or 3 miles off See chart, No. 784. 190 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. the coast outside, the stream sets to the northward during the rising tide, and to the southward :iu ring the falling tide, its greatest strength being from 1^ to 2 knots an hour. LOUTH BAY lies between Boston point and Bolingbroke point, and is about 6 miles deep in a north-west direction. The formation of the coast divides it into three distinct bays, one between the point 2^ miles North of Boston point and Louth island ; another between Louth island and a cliff point W.N.W. 3| miles from Bolingbroke point, and the third between the last-mentioned two points. The southern bay is 11 miles across between the south point of Louth island and the point opposite on the mainland, and 2;^ miles deep. It is shallow ; a bank dries oflF a quarter of a mile from the shore, and there is less than one fathom water half a mile further out. At the entrance there are 4 fathoms nearly all the way across, and there are 2^ to 3 fathoms half a mile off the whole extent of the south-west side of Louth island. Todd river discharges itself into this bay ; the mouth is generally blocked up with mud and weed. The missionary station at Poonindie is on the north bank of Todd river, one mile from the mouth, the mission church being visible from the bay. Todd river is the most western river in South Australia ; a few small rivulets discharge into port Lincoln during the winter, but thence to the western boundary there is no river or fresh water stream whatever. The second bay is more than ?) miles in depth, with from 4 to 8 fathoms in it, and a general depth of 5 fathoms half a mile from the shore. The shore consists of rocky points and sandy bays, with high, well wooded, and cultivated land behind. The jetty, 600 feet long, with a depth of 11^ feet at its end, for shipping wool, &c., is in the small cove, west of a point, N.N.W., 2 miles from the north-west point of Louth island. There are 2^ fathoms 4 cables off shore, with the north-east end of Louth island just open of the point near the jetty. N. | E. 8 cables from this point, and a quarter of a mile from the beach, is a small rock with 3 feet water on it. There are 1^ fathoms between I 3^ fathoms all round elsewj See charts, No. 784 and No. 2,8892». Chap. IV.] LOUTH BAY. 191 Anchorag'e. — There is anchorage in the southern part of the bay, under the sandy bar between Louth island and the land to the westward. The northern bay is nearly 3 miles in depth, with from 2 to 7 fathoms water in it, and with a general depth of 3 fathoms three- quarters of a mile from the shore. The shore is red cliffy points, and sandy beaches, with sand-hills immediately behind, and beyond them low hills covered with dense scrub. There is a rock with one fathom water on it, N. by E. |^ E. a little more than 1;^ miles from the western point of the bay, and nearly half a mile off a red rocky point. There are 3^ fathoms directly to the eastward of it, and 2^ fathoms between the rock and the nearest point. Hawker's Devil is a rock awash at low water, lying N. by E. 1:J miles from Boston point, and 7 cables off shore. There are 6 fathoms water half a mile east of it. Rabbit island is N.E. ^ N. nearly 3^ miles from Boston point ; it is half a mile long north and south, 400 yards broad, 32 feet high, and cliffy on its east side, from which it slopes gradually down to its west side. A rock awash at low water lies North 3 cables from its north point, with 3 fathoms 2 cables, and less than 5 fathoms nearly three-quarters of a mile, further north. The island may be approached as near as a quarter of a mile anywhere else ; there are 6 to 7 fathoms water between it and Louth island. Louth island, the south point of which is N. | E. nearly 3^ miles from Boston point, is 1^ miles long N. by W. and 8. b} E., and from three quarters to one quarter of a mile Avide ; it has two wooded summits, each about 76 feet high. The coast of the island is formed of rocky points and sandy bays, its east side is safe to approach to a quarter of a mile. A dry sand-spit extends 800 yards W. by N. ^ N. from the north-west point ; this spit is connected with the land to the westward by a sandy bar nearly dry at low water. BOLINGBROKE POINT, N.E. 9| miles from Boston point, is a round rocky point about 40 feet high. A reef with less than one fathom water on it extends half a mile south from it. Boling broke reef extends to the westward from Bolingbroke point, its end having 2| fathoms water on it, with 6 to 7 all round. See chftrt, No. 2,a89J. 1^5 SPBNOER GULF. [Chap. IV. except between the bearings of N.E. ^ E.and E.S.E. from it ; the end bears West a little more than 2^ miles from the point. Its shallowest part is a rock with less than one fathom water on it, W. ^ N. 1| miles from Bolingbroke point. Aspect of Loutli bay. — There is a fine range of hills running parallel to the western shore of Loutli bay, about 2 miles inland. The highest of this range is mount Knott, a well-wooded flat-topped hill, 832 feet high, W. by N. 2 miles from the point near the shipping place. Another remarkable hill is mount Gawler, 808 feet high, also flat-topped, and S. W. by W. | W. 2 miles from mount Knott. Mount Gawler is behind mount Knott from the north-east part of Louth bay. To the northward of mount Knott the range is lower, with no re- markable hill until mount Liverpool is reached, the round summit of which, 1,055 feet high, is very conspicuous from Louth bay, as is also a conical hill of about 800 feet elevation, bearing E.N.E. 1^ miles from mount Liverpool. All the range is well wooded with shea-oaks. From the foot of the high range to Bolingbroke point, the country consists of low hills between 200 and 300 feet high, covered with dense scrub. The land west of Louth bay is of a better nature, being well grassed with open wood on it. DIRECTIONS for LOUTH BAY.— From the south- ward. — To clear Hawker's Devil : — Bolingbroke point open east of Rabbit island N.E. leads to the south-east of it ; and mount Liverpool over the east side of Louth island N. ^ W., leads well to the east of the rock. To clear the rock north of Rabbit island : — Mount Knott open to the right of the north point of Louth island, N.W. by W. J W., leads to the north-east of it. In going to the usual shipping places, if standing towards the spit between Louth island and the shore, a vessel should tack when the north end of Rabbit island is in line with the north- east end of Louth island S.E. ^ S. From the northward.— In rounding Bolingbroke point do not approach it nearer than three-quarters of a mile, or shoal the water to less than 6 fathoms. When it can be seen, the south end of Reevesby island just open south of Kirkby island, E. J N., clears the foul ground off Bolingbroke point, and Bolingbroke reef to the southward. In »- ' ' ' See chart, No. 2,389&. Chap. IV.] SIR JOSEPH BANKS GROUP. 193 standing towards Bolingbroke reef from the southward, Bolingbroke point should not be brought to bear east of E. by N., or the water shoaled to less than 5 fathoms. A vessel is clear of the reef to the westward when mount Liverpool is over the western extreme of the west point of the north bay, N,N.W. ^ W. North of the Bolingbroke reef, Bolingbroke point should be kept south of E. by S., or the water not shoaled to less than 5 fathoms until within three-quarters of a mile of the shore, when the chart will be the best guide. Anchoragres. — The best anchorage in Louth bay is to the north- ward of Louth island spit, in 3^ fathoms, sand, with the extremes of Louth island bearing S.E. by E. and S. by E. Good anchorage, except with southerly gales, will be found off the first long sandy beach north-west of Bolingbroke point, in 3 fathoms, sand ; with the west side of Bolingbroke point S. by E. ^ E., and the right extreme of some rocks which stretch off the middle of the beach N.E. J E. SIR JOSEPH BANKS GROUP consists of 20 islands, islets, and rocks, above water, lying to the eastward of Louth bay and Bolingbroke point. Reevesby and Spilsby are the only islands on which water is obtainable, and where the vegetation is higher than low bushes. The islands are used for pastoral purposes. There are several good anchorages amongst them. They are all frequented during the breeding season by great numbers of cape Barren geese ; the young ones are fit to rear about August, and can then be easily run down and caught. The old birds come to the islands in the latter end of May and leave when the young can fly in October. Kirkby island is East 6 miles from Bolingbroke point ; its form is that of a haycock ; it is one mile in circumference, and 85 feet high. A small rock, with 5 fathoms water on it, lies N. by E. | E. 7 cables from Kirkby island ; it does not break, and has 10 to 11 fathoms all round. The centre of a rock awash bears N.N.E. IJ miles from Kirkby island ; a narrow reef, with less than one fathom water on it, extends 500 yards E. by N., and the same distance W. by S., from the rock. There are 10 fathoms midway between the reef and the 5-fathoms rock, and 11 fathoms half a mile off, to the westward or northward. 8ibsey island, open west of Kirkby island S. | W., leads to the 8ee chart, No. 2.389*. SO 11712 N 194 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. westward of the reef, and Wiiiceby island open north of Partney island N.E. by E. leads well clear and to the northward of the foul ground. To pass between the reef and Kirkby island, keep the clump on the south hill of Reevesby island over the south end of Lusby island E. J N. ; or in standing towards the reef, do not bring the clump north of the centre of that island. The west end of Langton island open of the east end of Dalby island S. by E. J E. leads to the eastward of the reef. Sibsey island is S. by W. 5| miles from Kirkby ; it is about 80 feet high, half a mile long north and south, and a quarter of a mile broad. There are 7 to 11 fathoms water close to, all round it. English islet lies N.E. :^ E. 9 cables from Sibsey island ; it is about 15 feet high, rocky, steep-to, and there are 7 to 9 fathoms between it and Sibsey. Stickney island is S.S.E. 8 miles from Kirkby, and 100 feet high. It is less than one mile across, and has two deep inlets which run nearly through it ; there is good landing in the one on the north side of the island. A rock above water, and connected with the island by rocks which cover and uncover, lies 2 cables S.E. from its south-east point. The island has 9 to 15 fathoms water within half a mile of it all round. Spilsby island is S.E. ^ E. 9^ miles from Kirkby. This is the highest, and only wooded and inhabited island of the group ; its north part rises to a round summit 162 feet high, and is well clothed with shea-oaks. It is 2 miles long north and south, and 1^ miles wide in its north part ; its south end is a narrow point three-quarters of a mile long, and a quarter of a mile broad. Its coasts consist of low cliffs, rocky banks, and sandy beaches with sand-hills behind them. There is fresh water in a well among the sand-hills at the north-west point of the island. A spit with less than one fathom water on ,it runs off the north- west point, N.N.W. i W. 6 cables, with 2^ fathoms 3 cables farther out in the same direction, and 8 fathoms directly outside the latter. There is a small islet about 20 feet high, W.S.W. 8 cables from the north-west point of Spilsby. A ledge of rocks extends 2 cables See chart, No. 2,389*, Chap. IV.] SIR JOSEPH BANKS GROUP. 195 S.S.W. from the islet. There is deep water between this islet and Stickney, but between it and Spilsby IJ fathoms is the deepest. The south-west side of Spilsby has ledges of rocks which uncover with the tide, jutting out 400 yards from the shore. A covered reef, 800 yards in extent, lies W. ^ S. one mile from the south point of Spilsby ; there are 1| to 2J fathoms between it and the shore, and 7 to 8 fathoms close to seaward. English islet in line with the north-east end of Stickney, N.W. by W. j W., leads to the southward ; and Kirkby summit over the west point of Langton N.W. J N. l«ads to the south-westward of the reef. The east side of Spilsby is rocky, but may be approached as near as half a mile. Three-quarters of a mile from the north-east point is Boucaut islet, 32 feet high, and about three-quarters of a mile in circumference ; S.E. ^ E. 4 cables. from the centre of this islet is Seal rock, about 10 feet high, and connected with the islet by rocks which uncover at low water. The channel between Spilsby island and Boucaut islet has 1^ fathoms water in the middle ; it sometimes breaks across. There is deep water north of the islet, but only 3 fathoms a quarter of a mile east of Seal rock, and E. by N, ^ N., 1^ miles off the north-east point of Spilsby. Anchorag'e. — North of the centre of Spilsby island there is good anchorage in 5 fathoms water a quarter of a mile off shore, with the wind between West, round by south to S.E. Anchorage in 3 fathoms may be found during easterly winds, with the extremes of Spilsby bearing E. ^ N. and S. by E. J E. ; this is close to the edge of the bank with less than one fathom on it, which runs off the whole of the north-west side of Spilsby to a distance of 3 cables from the beach. BUFFALO REEF lies S.E. by E. ^ E. 6 j miles from the summit of Spilsby island. It is a rock above water, about 10 feet high, 400 yards long east and west, and 50 yards broad. Rocks under water extend 2 cables west, and one cable north-east from its west and its e^st extremes respectively ; otherwise it is steep-to. There are 15 fathoms half a mile north of the reef, and 21 fathoms the same distance off elsewhere. The sea sometimes breaks with great violence on this dangerous reef. See chart, No. 2j389*. SO 11712 N 2 VM] SPENCER GULP. [Chap. IV. The channel between Butt'alo reef and Spilsby island is free from danger. Roxby Island lies E.S.E. 5| miles from Kirkby island ; it is one mile long east and west, 400 yards broad, and 74 feet high ; and is separated from Hareby island by a channel half a mile wide, with 2^ fathoms w.iter in it. Its north and east sides are cliffy, and the south and west sides are sloping points with small sandy beaches. A reef, witli a rock awash at low water, runs off the south-east point S.S.E. J K. half a mile. There are 4 to 6 fathoms close to this reef on its east, south, and west sides. There is no other danger farther than a quarter of a mile from the island. Kirkby summit over the middle of Dalby island, bearing N.W. by W. ^ W. leads to the south-westward of the reef, and the shoal water south of Hareby island. The clump on Reevesby island over the north-east end of Roxby island N.W. ^ N. leads clear to the north-eastward of it. Hareby island, E. by S. | S. 4^ miles from Kirkby, is 8 cables long east and west, and 2 cables broad ; its highest part is its east end, which is 41) feet above water. Rocks which dry for about half the distance extend W. J S. half a mile from its west point ; there is shallow water a quarter of a mile farther out on the same bearing. Six cables north from the north point of Hareby island is Blyth island, a round sandy islet, 88 feet high ; and 3 cables N.E, by E. from Blyth island is a rock above water, between them are rocks which uncover at low water. Between Hareby island and Blyth island, enclosing the latter and extending N.W. by W. 1^ miles from it, is a bank half a mile east and west, with from one-quarter to three-quarters of a fathom generally on it, and 1^ fathoms at its north-west end. There is a channel between the north end of this bank and Reevesby island, with 2i fathoms in it. Anchorage may be found with westerly or southerly winds under the lee of this bank, with Blyth island bearing N.W. by W., and the north extreme of Hareby island S.W. by W. Langton Island is S.E. ^ S. ^ miles from Kirkby island ; it is 6 cables long north-east and south-west, 2 cables broad, and 30 feet Set' chart, No. 3^389//. Chap. IV.] SIR JOSEI*H BANKS GROUP. 197 high. Its north-east part is a sandy bank 2 cables in length. There are only 2 fathoms water at 2 cables off its north-west point, but it is safe to approach to half a mile on its north, south, and west sides. Smith rock, which is awash at high water, is N.N.E. ^ E. half a mile from the north-east point of Langton island. There are 1^ fathoms at 2 cables E.S.E. from it, 2 fathoms the same distance N.E. by N., and 3J fathoms midway between it and the north-east point of Langton island. The summit of Kirkby island over the centre of Dalby island N.W. by W. ^ W., leads in 3^ fathoms, which is the deepest water, through the narrow channel between Smith rock and Hareby island. Dalby island, S.E. by E. ^ E. nearly 1^ miles from Kirkby, is a quarter of a mile long north-east and south-west, 200 yards broad, and 29 feet high. It is steep-to, with deep water between it and the islands near. Reevesby island.— The south end of this island is E. ^ N. 3 miles from Kirkby, above which is its highest part, a round green hill 107 feet high and three-quarters of a mile in diameter, with some bushes forming a clump near the top. From the north part of this hill the island extends N. J E. 2^ miles, varying from a quarter to half a mile in width, and from 20 to 40 feet high, the coast being sandy beaches with low rocky points. From the north part of the island, a narrow sandy neck and a peninsula half a mile long with a sand hill 66 feet high for its summit, extend east 1| miles. The east coast of Reevesby island is steep-tc, there are 10 to 11 fathoms one mile off. On the west side, one mile from the north point of the island, a sandy spit, with a rock awash at its extreme, extends 4 cables from the beach. Anchorage. — North of this spit there is good anchorage, except with North and N.W. winds, in from 5 to 3 fathoms water. A good berth for, small vessels is in 3^ fathoms, a quarter of a mile from the beach, with the house on Reevesby bearing E. by N. Water. — There is a well in the middle of the island about a third of a mile S.S.E. from the house. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, at this anchorage at 2h. 30m. ; springs rise G feet. See chart, No. 2,389i. 198 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. Lusby island is very small and 29 feet high, lying W. ^ N. one mile from the south summit of Reevesby island. It is connected with that island by a sandy bar which dries at low water. Rocks which dry in patches at low water extend between north and west 3 cables from its north-west point ; between these rocks and Marum island there are 4 to 5 fathoms. Between Lusby and Kirkby there are 9 to 10 fathoms. Marum island is N. by W. ^ W. one mile from Lusby island ; it is of an irregular shape, half a mile across, and about 30 feet high. A rocky patch with less than one fathom on it, lies W. ^ S. 7 cables from the centre of the island. Between the southern part of Marum and Reevesby islands there are 1^ to 3 fathoms, and 4 fathoms midway between the northern part of Marum and the end of the spit off Reevesby. AncllOrag'e. — A small vessel may find anchorage with north- west and northerly winds S.E. of Marum, and if not drawing more than 9 feet, run between it and the spit for Reevesby anchorage, when the wind shifts to west and south-west. Clearing* mark. — Winceby island open north of Partney island, N.E. by E., leads clear of all the dangers west of Marum island. Partney island is S.W. by W. | W. 1^ miles from Reevesby north point ; it is 29 feet high, a quarter of a mile long north-west and south-east, and a quarter of a mile broad. There are 5 to 6 fathoms water between it and the north part of Reevesby ; the island is steep-to on its north and west sides. It is connected with Marum island on its south-east side by a sandy spit which dries in places. Winceby island is N. J E. one mile from the north point of Reevesby island ; it is 33 feet high, half a mile long north-west and south-east, and a quarter of a mile broad. The channel between it and Reevesby has 2^ to 4 fathoms water in it. The COAST between Bolingbroke point and Tumby island runs in a northerly direction, and consists of low red cliffs and sandy beaches, with rocks which dry, extending in some places half a mile from the shore. The point, which is N.N.E. ^ E. 2 miles from See chart, No. 2,389*. Chap. IV.] BOLINGBROKE POINT. — HARVEY BAY. 199 Bolingbroke point, has Secret rock lying E. by S. ^ S. nearly half a mile from it ; this detached rock is of small extent, awash at low water, with 2 to 3 fathoms water all around it, and 5 fathoms half a mile to seaward. Rabbit island open of Bolingbroke point S.W. | W. clears Secret rock in 5 to 9 fathoms, and passes half a mile south-east, and three- quarters of a mile eastward of it. North 7 J miles from Bolingbroke point is the entrance to a swamp ; whence the sandy beach curves round to a low point, the spit from which curves half a mile to the northward and connects Tumby island with the mainland. The land should not be approached nearer than one mile between Bolingbroke point and Tumby island. Tumby island, N. by E. ^ E. 8J miles from Bolingbroke point, is 800 yards long north-west and south-east, and 500 yards wide. Its north-west part is 3 cables from the low point mentioned above. The island is cliffy, except on its north side, where there is a sandy beach, and of nearly equal height all round, its highest part being 37 feet above water. A rocky ledge, dry at low water, runs from the north-east point of the island N.E. by E. half a mile, and then curves to the southward for 3 cables to its south point, which is E. by N. 6 cables from the centre of the island. A reef composed of rocks awash at low water extends S. by E. half a mile from the south point of the island ; there are 4 fathoms a few yards south of this reef, and the same water one mile east of it ; and 3 J fathoms at a little more than one mile north from the centre of the island. HARVEY BAY (Tumby bay) is nearly 3 miles deep, between Tumby island and Salt creek. It is rather shallow, there being less than 5 fathoms to an average distance of 2 miles from the shore. From the point near Tumby island, the low sandy shore forms a small bay N.W. 1^ miles across to a low rocky point. From the low rocky point, the shore of the bay — a sandy beach, with a wooded bank behind — curves to the north and north-east for 4 miles to the mouth of Salt creek. A rock awash at low water, with a few dry rocks between it and the shore, lies N. by E. ^ E. 3 cables from the low rocky point. The entrance to a swamp is on the west side of this point ; and See chart, No. 2,389*. 200 SPENCER GULP. [Chap. IV. there is a jetty half a mile north from it, where a remarkably good ra.acadamised road to Port Lincoln and the Burrowing mine leaves the beach. The jetty is 525 feet long with 10 feet at low water at its outer end, and has a crane on it. The copper and agricultural produce of the district are shipped here. There is a post ofi&ce here. The population is about 150. Anchor age. — The best anchorage for small vessels in Harvey bay is off the centre of the beach to the east of the rocky point, in 2^ to 3 fathoms water, with the north end of Tumby island bearing S.E. by E. i E. Salt creek is a stream which discharges itself into the sea at the north-east part of Harvey bay. There are only 2| fathoms water If miles south-east of the entrance to Salt creek, and 5 fathoms one mile farther out. The edge of this bank continues from one mile to half a mile off shore as far as the north end of the long sandy beach to the northward, and is quite a mile from the beach along the north-west part of Harvey bay. Aspect of coast. — From 3 or 4 miles east of Tumby island, the Sheep hills are conspicuous to the northward ; the low land at the back of Harvey bay is scarcely visible ; the red cliffs of Tumby island and the coast between it and Bolingbroke point show out, the low hills near, which are covered with dense scrub, scarcely appearing above the cliffs ; and inland is seen the fine range of which mount Liverpool — bearing W. J N., 9;^ miles from Tumby island, and 1,055 feet high — is the most conspicuous and elevated summit. To the southward and south-east Kirkby island appears like a haycock, and Reevesby and the adjacent islands are seen to the left. DIRECTIONS. — In rounding Tumby island do not approach it nearer than one mile, or shoal the water to less than 6 fathoms until the island bears south of S.W. With Tumby bearing S.W. one mile, the course to the usual shipping place is N.W. by W. ^ W. 2^ miles, keeping the low rocky point near there well on the port bow. In entering Harvey bay from the northward, keep about 2 miles off shore until mount Liverpool bears W. by S. J S. Then alter course to W. by S. | S. ; this course leads direct for the shipping place, where anchor according to draught, there being 3 fathoms half a mile off shore. In standing towards the See chart. No. 2,389*. Chap. IV.] LIPSON COVE. — CAPE BURR. 201 north shore of Harvey bay, mount Liverpool should not be brought to bear south of W. by S. ^ S. to keep in more than 2i fathoms. The COAST. — From Salt creek to Lipson cove the coast trends about N.E. ^ N. 7 miles ; a sandy beach, with low land immediately behind, for 3 J miles, then high rocky points with small sandy beaches as far as the cove. LIPSON COVE is formed by a sandy beach, and a rock which runs out in a north-easterly direction 2 cables from the south end of the beach. The cove is N.N.E. | E. 10| miles from Tumby island. Anchoragre. — There is anchorage for one or two small vessels in 3 fathoms water midway between the north-east end of the rock and the north end of the beach ; it is only 3 cables across, leaving little room for a vessel to get under w^eigh with a north-easterly wind. This anchorage should only be used when the wind is off the land and likely to continue so. The chimneys of an abandoned copper mine in the first little bay south of Lipson cove are still standing and visible from the sea. The land in the vicinity has been surveyed for an agricultural area, and will doubtless soon be settled on by farmers. There is a jetty 330 feet in length with 8 feet water at its outer end. Water. — A well of excellent water is 50 yards back from the middle of the cove beach. No water is to be found on the coast to the northward. Cape Hardy, a grassy knob, 97 feet high, is N.N.E. i E. 5| miles from Lipson cove ; the coast between being of the same nature as that south of the cove. A wooded range named Sheep hills, the summit of which, 432 feet high, bears N.N.W. distant 2 miles from Lipson cove, runs parallel to the coast north 8 miles to cape Burr. CAPE BURR is 4 miles N. by E. | E. from cape Hardy, the coast between being rocky points and sandy bays. From Lipson cove to cape Burr the coast is steep-to, there being 5 fathoms at less than half a mile off it. See chart, No. 2,389*. 202 ' SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. The edge of the 10-fathoms bank is half a mile off Lipson cove and cape Hardy, and 1^ miles from cape Burr. Ancliorag'e. — There is good anchorage for small vessels in the bight north of cape Burr, in 3 fathoms, with the cape bearing S.S.E., three-quarters of a mile distant. Mount Hill, W; by N.. | N. 8^ miles from cape Burr, a truncated cone 1,240 feet high, standing by itself, is the highest and most con- spicuous landmark about this part of the coast. BUTTON BAY.— From cape Burr to a sandy point N.E. J N. 11 miles from it, the coast trends in a slight curve forming Button bay. The features of the coast are sandy bays, with higher cliffs than those south of cape Burr, the country immediately behind being lower, and covered with dense mallee scrub. The edge of the 3-fathoms bank is nearly a mile off shore in the south part of Button bay, and the same distance off its northern sandy point ; the 5-fathoms line is 1^ miles off the former part, and 1| miles off the latter, but less than half a mile off shore in the middle of the bay, where the cliffs are highest. The 10-fathoms line is 5 miles off shore midway between cape Briver and cape Burr, 1^ miles off cape Burr, and only three-quarters of a mile off cape Briver. Ancliorag'e. — There is good anchorage for small vessels on the bank in the north part of Button bay, in 3 fathoms water, sand, with cape Briver N.E. ^ N., and the south-west extreme of the long beach in the north part of the bay W. by S. The COAST.— From the north point of Button bay, behind which the land is very low, the coast trends north-east 3 miles to a red cliffy point 67 feet high ; this point is very similar in appearance to cape Briver, which bears from it N.E. J E. 2 miles. CAPE DRIVER, N.E. J N. 15^ miles from cape Burr, is a broad point extending more than half a mile N.N.E. and S.S.W., 53 feet high, with rocky ledges a quarter of a mile off it. SALT CREEK COVE, locally known as Arno, is the bight, about one mile north of cape Briver. A reef, uncovered at low water, extends 2 cables from the sandy south point of the cove, and a similar reef runs S.E. by E. nearly 3 cables from its north sandy See chart, No. 2,389J. Chap. IV.] BUTTON BAY.— SALT CREEK COVE. 203 point, with a rock always covered 2 cables S.W. from the end of the reef. A salt creek runs into the south-west part of the cove ; it has about 5 feet over the bar at its mouth at high water, and is navigable for boats for half a mile. There is a jetty 330 feet long, with 7^ feet water at its outer end, northward of the mouth of the creek. Arno or Salt Creek cove is visited by small vessels for cargo and with stores, but the neighbourhood is not inhabited. Anchorage. — There is shelter for a small vessel in Salt Creek cove, with the wind between North and S.W., in 3^ fathoms sand ; cape Driver bearing S. by W. nearly 1^ miles, and the mouth of the creek W. by S. ^ S. ■ Water. — There is a well near the beach about half a mile north from the mouth of the creek. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, in Salt Creek cove at 3h. 30m. ; springs rise 6 feet. Aspect.— Off cape Driver, Elbow hill, 710 feet high, shows by itself on the extreme right to the north- east ; Triple hill, 928 feet high, is the first conspicuous summit to the westward of it ; it is 9 miles N.W. J W. from Price point, and has three summits of nearly equal height. On a clear day, two ranges can be seen W.N.W. of Triple hill ; the summit and most conspicuous part is a sharp peak 1,340 feet high, bearing N.W. by W., 16J miles from Price point. To the south-west of these ranges the land is much lower, and there is nothing striking as far as mount Priscilla, a sharp cone about 800 feet high, standing by itself directly inland from Salt Creek cove. Mount Priscilla is N.W. | W., 12 miles from cape Driver. There is also a conical hill, and a range about one- mile in length midway between mount Priscilla and cape Driver ; these hills are all about 400 feet high. To the west and south-west there is nothing remarkable except Mount hill, which may be seen if it is sufficiently clear. The land immediately behind the coast is composed of low rises covered with dense scrub, and is scarcely higher than the cliffs or coast sand-hills. The COAST.— The north point of Salt Creek cove is N. i E. 2 miles from the pitch of cape Driver. From the cove a sandy bight extends N.E. ^ E. If miles ; the coast is then cliffy, with here and See chart, No. 2,389&. 204 SPBNCEIl GULF. [Chap. IV. there a sand-hill for 5J miles ; from the north end of the cliffs, a sandy beach, with low sand-hills behind, curves to the eastward for 3^ miles to Price point. The highest part of the coast between cape Driver and Price point is a green hill, 147 feet high, one mile north from the south end of the cliffs. A rock with less than one fathom water on it lies S. by W., half a mile from this hill ; and a rock awash (situated at the south- east extreme of a reef extending W. by S. half a mile from it) lies South half a mile from the south end of the cliffs. The reef has less than one fathom on it. A ledge of rocks extends half a mile off the coast, at the junction of the cliff and the sandy beach west from Price point. At 4 miles north-east of the point another ledge of rocks extends off for some distance. With these exceptions there are 5 fathoms anywhere half a mile off the land between Salt Creek cove and Price point, and 10 fathoms 1^ miles off it. PRICE POINT, N.E. i E. 12 miles from cape Driver, is a sandy point, 55 feet high, and surrounded to seaward by rocks which cover and uncover. Anch.orag'e. — There is anchorage for a small vessel, with westerly winds, in 3^ fathoms water, with Price point, S.W. half a mile. The land between Price point and a low rocky point N.E. by E. 3| miles from it forms a bay, in which the 5-fathoms line is half a mile off shore. The southern half of the shore of the bay is low red sandy cliffs, and the northern half a sandy beach, backed by low sand-hills. From the low rocky point the sandy shore extends N.E. I E. 7J miles to Germein point. GERMEIN POINT, on the west side of the entrance to Franklin harbour is lowj being composed of masses of weed, which shift about from time to time. A spit runs S.E. ^ S. 1^ miles from the point, with depths of from 1| fathoms to a quarter of a fathom over it. Between this spit and the shallow water extending IJ miles south of Victoria point, is the channel over the bar into Franklin harbour. VICTORIA POINT, on the north side of the entrance to Franklin harbour, is N.E. ^ E. 1} miles from Germein point ; its :iee charts, No. 2,389&, and No. 786, Franklin harbour, scale w = 3 inches. Chap. IV.] FRANKLIN HARBOUR. 205 face is a red clitf 50 feet high, east, south, and west ; 6 cables from the point, is a bank composed of sand and detached rocky ledges, which covers and uncovers. There is only three-quarters of a fathom S. by E. J E. rather more than one mile from Victoria point, and 1| fathoms S. | E. 1^ miles from it. Aspect.— From about 5 miles to the south-east of Franklin har- bour, the low hills connecting Elbow and Triple hills are seen on the extreme left to the westward. Triple hill is not very conspicuous, as it stands far back. Elbow hill is the first remarkable one ; it has a bold round summit. The next noticeable hill to the northward, is mount Parapet, 1,013 feet high ; this hill falls very steeply on its south-east side. Farther to the right, the range of which mount Olinthus is the summit, rising to the height of 1,446 feet, can be seen over the nearer hills. Mount Olinthus and the hills of the same range are all sharp- topped. On the nearer range to the right, is Long-back hill, 1,038 feet high, which is one of the leading marks over the bar ; the summit of this hill is at its south-west part, from which it slopes down suddenly on its south side, but it is nearly level for half a mile to the north- east. Three miles further north is a peak 882 feet high, and 4 miles more in a north-easterly direction the range ends abruptly at N.E. peak, which is 861 feet high, and stands alone. The hills mentioned are on the following bearings from Victoria point : Elbow hill, W. J S. 9^ miles ; mount Parapet, W. by N. ^ N. 9| miles ; mount Olinthus, N.W. | W. 13 miles ; Long-back hill, N.W. I N. 11 miles ; and N.E. peak, N. by W. 15 miles. About Franklin harbour the red cliff of Victoria point and the trees above, are at once the highest and most conspicuous landmarks to recognise Franklin harbotr by ; the cliff of the south part of Entrance island is next in height ; and the rest of the coast, where it is seen, appears as a lo^ bank covered with trees and shrubs. FRANKLIN HARBOUR, a good port for coasters, is a large sheet of shallow water half filled up by sand banks which cover and uncover with the tide. The shores all round are very low, swampy, ^ • «. See charts, No. 2,389ft and No, 785. 206 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. and fronted by mangroves. From Germein point, a sandy bank runs to the westward for half a mile to the mouth of Observatory creek ; the observation spot is on the west side of the entrance to the creek. From Observation point the shore trends N.W. half a mile (bordered by sand-hills about 20 feet high, for half that distance, and then by mangroves) to a mangrove point, which is one of the marks for entering the harbour. Two islands entirely surrounded by mangroves are on the dr}^ bank to the westward of this point. From near the south-west point of the southern island the main- land extends in a bight S. by W. J W. IJ miles to a mangrove point. The south end of Franklin harbour is 2 miles from this point, the coast between being mangroves and sandy beaches, with some detached clumps of mangroves lying a short distance from the beach. With the exception of the low sandy bank on the sea beach, the land between the east shore of Franklin harbour and the sea is swampy, and nearly covered by a high tide. The edge of the bank which dries at low water is one cable off shore at Germein point, and continues the same distance to the mangrove point north-west from Observation point ; it then trends N.N.W. about one mile to a point, from which it turns sharply to the westward and south-west, running S.W. I W. 2| miles to a sharp tongue named Howard spit. From Howard spit the edge of the bank describes nearly a circle, 2 miles in diameter, and enclosing a pool with depths from 1^ to 2J fathoms in it, and drying generally to a distance of half a mile from the mangroves. To the west of Howard spit the channel into the pool is 3 cables wide, with 1^ to 2 fathoms. From the south end of Franklin harbour the edge of the mangroves runs in a curve 4 miles to the northward to a point N. ^ E. 7 cables from the end of Howard spit ; the edge of the dry bank is 2 cables from the mangroves at this point. From there the mangrove shore trends in a northerly direction .4 miles to the north end of the harbour, with two slightly projecting points between. Along all the west shore the mangroves are fronted by rocks with sand outside. Oowell. — The township of Cowell is close to the beach on the west shore, at a gap in the mangroves, near the north end of the harbour ; it possesses a post and telegraph office and a hotel ; a jetty runs out 540 feet and has a depth of 9 feet at the end at low water. There are two mails a week from xA.delaide. Steam vessels occasionally See chart, No. 785. Chap. IV.] FRANKLIN HARBOUR. 207 visit the harbour to load wool, &c., the produce of the sheep runs in its vicinity. The south extreme of a spit stretching off the north shore bears E. ^ N., 6 cables from the wool shed. South-east 2J miles from the north end of the harbour is a broad point facing the north end of Entrance island ; the point has a hill on its western side. There is a shallow bight to the northward between this point and the jetty, scarcely any part of it having more than one fathom. The shore of the bight is generally fronted by mangroves, except in the north-east part, where there is a bare sandy beach. From the point near Entrance island the shore bights to the north-eastward, with very low swampy land behind, and then out to Victoria point. A large portion of the northern part of Franklin harbour is occupied by a sand-bank, which dries in patches. Its south extreme is N.W. ^ W. 3^ cables from the south-west point of Entrance island ; from there the bank extends N.N.W. IJ miles, and W.S.W. three- quarters of a mile, and is from 500 to 1,000 yards in width. The channel between the sand-bank and the bank running off the south shore is 400 yards wide, with 2 to 4 fathoms water in it ; it is narrowed to less than 200 yards for a quarter of a mile by a spit with IJ to 2 fathoms on it, which runs off the south end of the large sand-bank. The edge of the south bank in this part of the channel is very steep. The south end of the spit mentioned is W. J S. 2i cables from the south-west point of Entrance island. Between the large bank and the west shore the channel is 2 to 4 cables wide, with from IJ to 1| fathoms water in it. Between the large bank and Entrance island for the first half mile there are two channels ; the one nearer the bank is one cable wide, with from 2 to 3 fathoms water in it ;. the other channel is from one to 3 cables wide, with IJ to 2 fathoms in it ; north-east and north of the bank, the deep water space is from 4 to 8 cables wide, with a depth of IJ to 2i fathoms. The bar is sand over rock ; the sea generally breaks on it (except with winds off the land), more with a southerly wind than any other, but never dangerously. The shallowest part of the bar is on a bank, where there is 10 feet, lying South If miles from Victoria point. The extent of the bank is 200 yards N.W. and S.E., and 100 yards N.E. and S.W. Between this bank and the south-east extreme of See chart, No. 785. ^08 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. the spit from Germein point the channel is 2 cables wide, with 2J fathoms least water. The channel between the bank and the spit from Victoria point is the same width, with 2 fathoms water. Generally, the width of the channel between the two spits, over the shallowest part of the bar, is 6 cables ; with not less than 10 feet at low water. After crossing the bar, the channel between the gpitg narrows to 3 cables in width, and deepens to 3J fathoms, but before passing Germein point shoals again to 2 fathoms. Entrance island, the centre of which is one mile to the west- Ward of Victoria point, is 1| miles long N.N.E. and S.S.W., and from a quarter to half a mile wide. It is divided into two islets at high water, the sea overflowing a portion in the middle, which is covered with mangroves. The north part has a general height of 25 feet, is covered with bushes, and bordered by mangroves and sandy banks, with rocks here and there which cover and uncover with the tide. There is a blind channel between the island and Victoria point which ends north of the island. The south part of the island is cliffy on its ea^'t side, the highest part of Avhich is 32 feet above high water, and 5 cables from the south end of the island ; from the top of the cliff the land slopes down to the mangroves which border its western coast. The edge of the dry bank, which south of Entrance island is about 50 yards off shore, runs from there in an E. by N. direction for a quarter of a mile to a rock 400 yards in extent E.N.E. and W.S.W., and then extends to the northward parallel to the coast of the island. ^ A line of rock, the outer part of which is 100 yards from the coast, runs parallel to the whole of the south-west face of the island. This island is infested with deaf adders of the most venomous description ; a f e vv quail and pigeons were also seen there, and some teal near Germein point. Rock. — E. by N. 6 cables from the south extreme of Entrance island is a rock 300 yards long east and west, and 100 yards wide, uncovered at low water, and surrounded by a sandy bank, the edge of which is nowhere more than half a cable from the rock. See chart, No. 785. Ohap. TV.] FRANKLIN HARBOUR. - 209 Buoys. — The channel leading into Franklin harbour is marked by six buoys ; the fairway buoy, chequered black and red, with staff and ball, is on the south side of the 10 feet patch, from it Victoria point bears North If miles. Two red buoys with staff and ball lie with Victoria point N.N.E. j E. 8 cables and N.E. by E. | E. one mile, and a red buoy lies 2 cables E. J S. from the south point of Entrance island. Two black buoys are moored with the south point of Entrance island W.N.W. 8 cables and N.W. by W. J W. 1| cables. The channel between the large sand banks and Entrance island is marked by two red buoys and two black buoys. To the north of this channel six small red tub-shaped buoys have been placed to mark the north-eastern edge of a new cutting and the deepest water from this cutting to the jetty. The red buoys must be left on the starboard hand and the black buoys on the port hand entering. A black warping buoy attached to a 30 cwt. anchor has been placed 2r)0 feet south-east from the jetty end for the purpose of hauling off from the jetty. This buoy must not be used for riding or mooring purposes. DIRECTIONS. — Franklin harbour is only available for vessels drawing less than 12 feet. It should never be attempted at night, as the marks for entering cannot be clearly seen, and a vessel might easily get on shore before her position could be identified. Approaching: Franklin harbour, keep 3 miles off shore until Victoria point bears North, (and if from the north and east the water must not be shoaled to less than 5 fathoms), then steer towards it, until the fairway red and black chequered buoy is seen (it is tub- shaped, surmounted by staff' and ball, and moored on the edge of the IJ fathoms patch. South 1| miles from Victoria point).* Leave the buoy on the starboard hand, when a course of N.N.W. ^ W. will lead half-way between two buoys rather over a mile distant from the fairway buoy, red with staff and ball on the starboard hand, black on the port hand ; when the black buoy is abeam, alter course to about N.W. by W. | W. ; pass the next red buoy with staff and ball * Long- back hill summit in line with the small sandy beach on Entrance island, a little north of the highest part of the cliff, bearing N.N.W. f W., is said to lead over the bar in not le?s than 2 fathoms. Having crossed the bar with this mark on, keep a little to the northward when the water deepens. See chart, No. 785. SO 11712 O 210 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. on the starboard hand, then steer to pass between the red and black buoys, E.S.E. about 2 cables from the south point of Entrance island and round the south point of the island at the distance of one cable. A vessel may anchor in 4 fathoms water with the south point of Entrance island bearing East, and Observation point S. J E. To proceed to the anchorage off the township of Cowell, give the south-west point of the island a berth of 1^ cables, then steer to pass the red buoy, which is about 3 cables north-west of the south-west point of the island, on the starboard hand, afterwards leaving the black buoys marking the channel on the port hand and the red buoys on the starboard hand ; and anchor with the end of the jetty bearing N.W. 2| cables distant, in 1| fathoms, mud. There are 9 feet at low water in this channel. If going through the channel between the large sand banks, after passing Entrance island, when Observation point bears South, bring the north end of the bushes on Germein point nearly in line with the south point of Entrance island S.E. by E. J E., this leads in 2^ fathoms over the spit off the south extreme of the large sand- bank ; the end of Germein point in line with the south point of Entrance island leads over IJ fathoms, so the point must be kept open. Keep the marks on until well into the channel between the two sand-banks, the edges of which show very clearly except near the time of high water. There is no more difficulty until rounding the spit to turn to the northward along the west shore ; the turn is so sharp and the channel so narrow that great care is required there to avoid grounding on the western bank. After rounding the spit keep about half a mile off the mangroves on the west shore, and anchor as directed above. If bound to the south-west part of the harbour, after leaving the large detached sand-bank on the starboard hand, the deepest water will be found on the east side of the channel up to Howard spit, not more than a cable from the edge of the eastern bank. A spit with 3 feet on it extends W.S.W. 600 yards from the dry end of Howard spit. The shallowest part of the channel is at the entrance to the pool, where there are not more than 8 feet at low water. There is anchorage in 9 feet, with Elbow hill over the left extreme of a series of small sandy beaches on the western shore W. by N., and the right extreme of the mangroves on the western shore N.E. ^ N. iSee chart, No. 785. Chap. IV.] FRANKLIN HARBOUR.— SHOALWATBR POINT. 211 In working in or out over the bar, a vessel should be conned from the masthead, and close attention be paid to the lead, the tide, the tidal streams, and the chart. TIDES AND TIDAL STREAMS.— It is high water, full and change, at the entrance to Franklin harbour at 4:1a.. Om. ; springs rise 5 feet 6 inches. The streams begin a few minutes after high and low water respectively. A long continuance of south-westerly and southerly winds raises the general level of the water in Franklin harbour 2 to 3 feet ; the tidal streams are then very strong, running as much as 5 knots an hour off Germein point during the falling tide. At ordinary springs it runs there, and in the narrow channels up the harbour, at a greatest rate of 3 knots. Seaward of Franklin harbour, 4 miles S.S.E. of Germein point, the stream runs N.E. by E. during the rising tide and S.W. by W. during the falling tide, at the rate of 2 knots an hour ; 5 miles East of the same point, E. by N. ^ N. during the rising tide and W. by S. ^ S. during the falling tide, at the rate of 1^ knots ; and 3 miles S.E. of Shoalwater point, N.E. during the rising tide and S.W. during the falling tide, at the rate of 2 knots an hour. The COAST. — From Victoria point the coast describes a convex curve N.E. by E. ^ E. 3^ miles to a sand-hill at the entrance to a swamp. The land between is very low with the exception of one wooded rise. S.E. by S., nearly 1^ miles from the sand-hill is a small dry bank, 200 yards across, with 3 feet water half a mile W.S.W. of it, and the same depth 3 cables W.N.W. There is one fathom water between the bank and the coast, and only 2 fathoms 4 cables south of the bank. From the sand-hill mentioned, the direction taken by the coast is E. by N. J N. 6 miles to a very low point and then N.E. J E. 2J miles to Shoalwater point. At 3^ miles along the coast from the sand-hill are three wooded rises, each about 40 feet high ; off them, the edge of the dry bank is rather more than one mile from the beach. From Victoria point to 4 miles eastward, the edge of the 5-fathoms bank is 2 miles off shore, and thence to Shoalwater point from 3 to 3^ miles off. SHOALWATER POINT bears E.N.E. 11| miles from Victoria See charts, No. 785 and No. 2,389&. SO 11712 2 212 SPENCER GULP. [Chap. IV. point, the coast between projecting nearly a mile beyond the line joining the two points. Shoalwater point is not more than 10 feet high, the land behind being swampy up to the foot of the range, 15 miles in-shore. The dry bank extends to a distance of 1^ miles in a south-easterly direction from the point ; and S.E. | S. about 2 miles from Shoal- water point there is a bank with only 2 feet water on it, one fathom in-shore, and 4 fathoms one mile to seaward. Anchoragre. — To the north-east of Shoalwater point there is good anchorage anywhere on the bank, in from 2 to 5 fathoms. The water is always smooth and the holding ground good. The COAST.— From Shoalwater point it is N.N.E. ^ E. 15 miles to Plank point, the coast between being nearly straight, and in no part higher than 20 feet. A sandy bank extends on the average one mile from the beach ; there is generally a depth of 5 fathoms ii miles from the edge of the bank. There are only 2| fathoms S.E. ^ S. P) miles from Plank point. PLANK POINT, nearly N.E. by E. :^2 miles from Elbow hill, may be easily known by three sand-hills along the coast, the point being close to the northern ; the southern and most conspicuous hill is 51) feet high, and is the highest part of the coast between Franklin harbour and mount Young, to the north-east. The COAST. — From Plank point the coast takes a general N. by E. J E. direction, 21 miles to the foot of mount Young, and forms a shallow bay immediately to the southward of the mount. The coast consists either of beach or mangrove bushes, fronted the whole distance by shoal water, extending in some parts about 2 miles from it : the water shoals quickly from 7 and 8 to 2 and 3 fathoms. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, at Plank point, at () h. ir» m. ; springs rise 6 to 8 feet. MOUNT YOUNG, ih.e most prominent feature of this part of Spencer gulf, bears N. by E. ] E. distant 22 miles from Plank point ; it rises steeply to the height of 475 feet, from the low land on all sides of it. This hill, which, when seen from a distance, makes out as a double peak, is situated 1^ miles from the nearest part of the mangrove coast : the intermediate space being mostly occupied by swamps, iSf^f charts, No.'2,389/> and N^o. 408, Wood's point to Lowly point, scale m = 1*0 inch. Chap. IV.] PLANK POINT.— WESTERN SHOAL. 213 which extend along the coast to Hummock hill, 6 miles to the north- east, and far to the south. The country inland of mount Young is an extensive plain, gradually rising to the westward and covered with stunted scrub. Middle-back mount, nearly W. by S.'^ S. 19 miles from mount Young, is 1,519 feet high, and is the summit of ranges of hills extending from about 10 miles west of Plank point to 18 miles W. by N. }j N. of mount Young : but they are too distant to be of any great service to vessels. Between this range and the coast there are ranges of hills of less elevation, besides those already noticed. Four-fathoms shoal is about half a mile in diameter, with mount Young bearing N.W. | N., and Hummock hill N. by W. ; the least water on this shoal is 24 feet. WESTERN SHOAL. — A sandy patch about half a mile across which dries, lies 2 miles from the shore in the shallow bight immediately south of mount Young ; and from this patch the shallow part of Western shoal extends to the eastward 3 miles with a width of about half a mile ; there are 3 feet on it at low water, and there is a 2-fathoms channel between it and the sand flat fronting the shore. The r)-fathoms edge of Western shoal extends about 3^ miles south- eastward from the sandy patch, and then sweeps round in a northerly direction to about 2 miles off Hummock hill ; there are 3 fathoms on the outer edge E. by S. | S. (> miles from mount Young, and S. by E. 6:| miles from Hummock hill. Beacon. — A pile beacon, painted black, and surmounted by a large square head has been placed on an outlying patch of Western shoal, in 19 feet at low water springs. From it mount Young bears W.N.W., mount Laura N.N.W. [ W. and Hummock hill N. ^ W. Anchorage. — In the bay south of mount Young there is anchorage in from 12 to U) feet water, to the south-west of the patch which dries on the west end of Western shoal, at about three-quarters of a mile from the shore, with mount Young bearing N. | E. DIRECTIONS. — After sighting mount Young, which may be seen from a distance of 22 miles, the shoal water fronting the western coast in the vicinity of the Plank point is cleared by keeping the mount bearing west of North. When Hummock hilJ is See charts, No. 2,389A and No. 403. 214 SPENCJER GULI*. [Chap. IV. distinguished, by keeping it west of North, the Western shoal will be cleared to the eastward in 3 fathoms ; this, however, leads close to shoaler water and when near the Western shoal the position should be frequently fixed by cross bearings, attention should also be paid to the lead. Vessels should pass to the eastward of the beacon. The COAST from li miles south of mount Young trends N.E. I N. 7| miles to Hummock hill point ; it is very low and swampy for some distance inland, and has a fringe of mangrove bushes ; sand- flats, which dry at low water springs, extend half a mile to one mile off it. Hummock hill, N.E. J E. GJ miles from mount Young, is round and grassy, and rises from a point of the coast to the height of 201 feet above high water. The point has a shingle beach, with sand-flats extending 100 yards off it, and 4 fathoms at half a mile from the shore. Mount Laura, N. by E. J E. 6^ miles from mount Young, is situated on a ridge extending north-west from Hummock hill, and rises to the height of 596 feet ; it is a sharp wedge-shaped hill, with its west face nearly perpendicular. FALSE BAY extends from Hummock hill point N.E. by E. J E. 7 miles to Black point, and is 3 J miles deep, with 4 or 5 fathoms in the centre, and the water gradually decreasing in depth towards the head of the bay. Black point, however, is nearly steep-to, with 4 or 5 fathoms 2 cables off shore. The shore of False bay is fronted by a sand-flat, which dries at low water, and extends, in some places, more than a mile off it. Buoy. —See Ballast, p. 255. Andiorage. — The bay affords good anchorage, with northerly and westerly winds. Caution. — The land at the head of False bay is very low and swampy, and continues so for many miles inland, so that to vessels running up Spencer gulf, the bay presents the appearance of an opening which has been mistaken for the entrance of Port Augusta estuary, before the entrance of the head of the gulf makes out. TIDES and TIDAL STREAMS.— It is high water full and change in False bay, at 7 h. m. ; springs rise 6 to 8 feet. At half a See chart, No. 403. Chap. IV.] t'ALSB BAY.— CAPE SPENCER. 2l5 mile off Black point, in 5 fathoms water, the tidal stream sets East during the rising tide and West during the falling tide about one knot ; at about half a mile off Hummock point the streams set North and South. Black point, the north-east extreme of False bay, is formed of a limestone cliff about 50 feet high, and, although the cliff is of a light colour, its overhanging face, having a southern aspect, is nearly always in shadow and appears black. From Black point the coast trends E. J S. 3 miles to Lowly point, and is bordered by a rocky ledge extending 300 yards from high- water mark. There is a patch with 25 feet water on it, at about one mile off shore, midway between Black point and Lowly point, with 10 fathoms between the patch and the latter point. FAIRWAY BANK, on which the least water is 24 feet, lies nearly in mid-channel off False bay, with its north-east end S.W. ^ S. 4 miles from Lowly point ; it is 3 miles long, N.N.E. J E. and S.S.W. ^ W., and three-quarters of a mile broad. Mount Laura and Hummock hill in line, bearing N.W. by W. ^ W. just clear the south-west end of this bank in 5^ fathoms. There is a safe channel, 3 miles wide, with 6 to 10 fathoms water in it, between Fairway bank and the shoal water of False bay. EASTERN SHORE of Spencer gulf.— The western shore having been described from cape Catastrophe to Lowly point, where the gulf is only 8^ miles wide, the navigator's attention will be next directed to the eastern shore, before proceeding farther up the gulf to Port Augusta. YORKE PENINSULA, at one time looked on as only fit for pastoral purposes, has been settled in many places by farmers, and a large quantity of wheat is now grown. CAPE SPENCER, in lat. 35° 18' 21" S., long. 136° 53' E., is the southern of three cliffy points with sand-hillocks behind them, forming the south-west end of Yorke peninsula ; it is 258 feet high, with a ledge of rocks at its base, and from the southward appears like a cone. Reef head is W.N.W. 2 miles from cape Spencer ; a reef extends See charts, No. 403 and No. 2,389a. ^^gg LFg^**^ I UNIVERSITY I 216 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. S.S.W. }y W. 4 cables from it, and there is foul ground about 3 cables off the coast in the vicinity. West cape, bearing N.W. by N. 2^ miles from Reef head, is 189 feet high. ALTHORPE ISLES are three in number, the centre of the south and largest, lies S. by W. 4| miles from cape Spencer, and N.N.E. l E. 26^ miles from cape Borda ; it is of an irregular shape about 6 cables across, nearly flat-topped, and 305 feet high, with steep sides and a cleft across its southern part, visible from the eastward and westward. Dry rocks lie a quarter of a mile west of the south point, and some larger ones half a mile from the west side of the island. A rock, upon which the sea breaks, lies north-west half a mile from the island, with 9 fathoms between them ; there is also a sunken rock a quarter of a mile north of the island. The summit of the island is much burrowed by mutton birds and penguins. The south point of the island, after passing the rocks west of it, may be rounded at the distance of a mile in 20 fathoms ; close in, the wind is generally baffling from the westward. The other two Althorpe isles are bare rocks, lying S.E. 1| miles, and S.E. ;} S. 3 miles from cape Spencer, the former being 131, and the latter 102 feet high. A sunken rock upon which the sea generally breaks, lies N.N.W. 3 cables from the southern of the two islets. Telegrrapll station. — A submarine telegraph is laid in a south- east direction for three-quarters of a mile from cape Spencer and thence to the south Althorpe island. This is not a signal station, but if signals be hoisted and are observed at the lighthouse, they will be reported to Adelaide and Port Adelaide. Anchorag'e. — There is anchorage in 8 to 10 fathoms watei*, on a sandy bottom, sheltered from westerly gales, off a remarkable j ellow overhanging cliff, on the east side of the south Althorpe island, with its extremes bearing N.N.W. and South ; and in fine weather, landing may be effected upon the sandy beach or the rocks on the north-east side, and in a small cove on the south-east side of the island. There is a jetty 230 feet in length, with a depth of 11 feet at its outer end on the north-east side of the island. LIGHT. — The lighthouse on the south Althorpe island is 50 feet See chart. No. 2,.'i8y^/. Chap. IV.] ALTHORPB ItiLES. 217 high und painted white ; it exhibits at 350 feet above the sea a flashing light of the tirst order, showing a Jiash every 15 seconds. The light is white, except between the bearings of S. 25° E. and S. 01° E., where it is red. The white light should be seen from a distance of 25 miles and the red from a distance of 17 miles in clear weather. The white light is also visible over Yorke peninsula between the bearings of S. 14^ E. and S. 8° E. ; and S. 6° E. and S. 6° W. The northern edge of the red sector leads half a mile eastward of Emmes reef and the southern edge nearly half a mile southward of S.W. rock. EMMES REEF, W. by S. \ S. 3^ miles from cape Spencer, is a T'ocky patch 50 yards across, that dries 5 feet at low water springs, and upon which the sea at other times breaks heavily ; there are 17 fathoms at a quarter of a mile from the reef. Breakers. — Heavy breakers have been reported about 2| miles off Reef head, bearing W. by N., distant about one mile from Emmes reef. At the time the breakers were seen, a moderate south- west gale was blowing, with a heavy sea. S.W. ROCK, upon which the sea only breaks at intervals during a heavy swell, or in a westerly gale, lies N.W. by W. 3| miles from the centre of the south Althorpe isle. Tidal streams. — At the south Althorpe isle the stream sets N.W. during the rising tide, and South during the falling tide. Soundings. — There are 35 to 15 fathoms at 8 or 9 miles west and south of the south Althorpe isle, and 22 fathoms at (I miles to the eastward of it. From cape Spencer to the Foul ground south- eastward of Gambler isles there are 20 to 35 fathoms. PONDALOWIE BAY, so called by the natives, is the northern of two small bays between West cape and Royston head. From Royston head Pondalowie bay extends 2 J miles to its southern bight, its eastern shore being a sandy beach backed by high sand-hills. A reef of sunken rocks, upon which the sea breaks in south-west gales, projects from a cliffy head just outside of the south point of Pondalowie bay, to three-quarters of a mile N.N.W. of West cape. Stx chart, No. 2,;JS9a. 218 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. The entrance of Pondalowie bay, which is nearly three-quarters of a mile wide, with 6 fathoms water, lies between South and Middle islets ; South islet is small, and connected at low water with the south point of the bay ; and Middle islet, which lies north of South islet, and S. by W. ^ W. IJ miles from North islet, close off Royston head, is half a mile long, W.N.W and E.S.E., and is 94 feet high, with a 'reef of dry and covered rocks projecting W.N.W. 800 yards from its western point, and a reef of sunken rocks extending 200 yards from the middle of its south side. A rock, with 7 feet water on it, upon which the sea breaks at intervals in south-west gales, lies close inside the entrance, with the outer point of South islet bearing S.W. ^ S., distant 3^ cables. The channel between Middle islet and the shore is rocky, with only 2 fathoms water in it. The three islets fronting Pondalowie bay, which are the Black rocks of Flinders, being of a dark-coloured limestone on their western sides, appear in the forenoon quite black when seen from seaward against the sand-hills on the land. Directions. — In approaching Pondalowie bay from the south- ward, keep the cliffs of Reef head open south-west of West cape, bearing S.E. ^ S., to clear the end of the reef which lies N.N.W. from the cape. And any small vessel entering the bay between South and Middle islets ishould, to avoid the sunken rock in it, and the reef on the south side of Middle islet, run in with the high sand- hill just open north of South islet bearing E. by S., passing the islet, which is steep-to, at the distance of a cable. Pondalowie bay would afford good shelter in 3J fathoms for a small vessel, with any winds from North round by east to W.S.W., at a quarter of a mile off shore, but there is no good holding-ground, the bottom being smooth limestone with a thin covering of sand. ROYSTON HEAD, a cliffy point 195 feet high, bearing N. by E. J E. distant 3 miles from West cape. North islet, a steep rocky islet, 80 feet high, lies close off the head, with which it is connected by a reef. DALY HEAD is steep and rocky, with a grassy summit 207 feet high ; a reef, partly 4 feet above water, extends half a mile west from the head. The country behind Daly head, to the northward, is low. See chartj No. 2,389a. Chap. IV.] ROYSTON HEAD. — DALY HEAD.— CORNY POINT. 219 with several salt swamps and small grassy plains, and some wells of good water in the hills. This part of Yorke peninsula is occupied during the summer months by sheep stations. Tlie COAST. — From Royston head a succession of small sandy beaches and rocky points trends N.E. by N. 8 miles to the bight of a bay, and thence a sandy beach trends N.W. by N. 4 miles to Daly head, which bears N. by E. ^ E., lOJ miles from Royston head. The whole of this coast is backed by high sand-hills, and the points have generally rocks extending 200 to 400 yards from them. A rock upon which the sea breaks heavily, except in very fine weather and with easterly winds, lies N.N.E. J E. 3J miles from Royston head, a little more than a mile from the shore. From Daly head the coast curves slightly N. by E. ^ E. 5J miles to the southern point of a sandy bay, which extends thence N.N.E. J E. ^^ miles to Corny point. Two reefs project one-third of a mile from a rocky point one mile N.E. ^ N. of Daly head, and there are several rocks a quarter of a mile off the beach to the northward. N.N.E. 4 miles from Daly head is a rocky point, off which are two detached rocks, always above water, the outer one being three-quarters of a mile off shore. The coast between Daly head and Corny point is generally sandy, and from immediately north of the head, a range of high sand-hills extends along the beach. WEBB ROOK lies N. by W. 3^ miles from Daly head, and S.W. I S. 6^ miles from Corny point ; it has generally heavy breakers upon it, but during the summer months, after long-continued easterly winds, the sea only breaks slightly on it at intervals. A knob of the outer part of the rock is awash at low- water, springs. CORNY POINT is a double sloping rocky projection, in lat. 34° 54' S., long. 137° 1' E. ; the coast to the southward is higher than the point itself ; but to the northward it is low and sandy, the only dangers about the point being some rocks above water to the south-westward, which do not extend beyond a quarter of a mile from the shore. LIGHT. — The lighthouse on Corny point, a round stone tower, 40 feet high, exhibits at 98 feet above the sea a fixed white light of the third order, visible through an arc of 200°, between the bearings of N. 45° E. and S. 65° W. ; it should be seen in clear weather from See chart, No. 2,389a. 220 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. a distance of 14 miles. The lighthouse, keepers* dwellings, and store room are painted white. An arc of reflected light from the lighthouse is visible inshore of Webb rock, and unless the night be clear and the land in sight, might (in the absence of bearings) be mistaken for the true light. The reflected light may, in clear weather, be seen from a distance of about 10 miles, inside the bearing of N.E. | N. (N. 37° E.). Vessels approaching from the southward, should keep well to the westward until Corny point lighthouse bears N.E. J E. (N. 51° E.). The passage inside the rock should never be attempted at night by a sailing vessel, unless with a fair wind and thorough knowledge of the coast. Sigrnal station. — There is a signal station at Corny point and communication can be made by the commercial code, but it is not connected by telegraph. Directions. — Corny point may be safely rounded at the distance of half a mile, in 9 to 10 fathoms water, the only dangers about it being the rocks which project a quarter of a mile south-west from it. After rounding the point into Hardwicke bay the water quickly shoals to the eastward of Corny point, and for the first 2 miles, do not bring the point west of S.W. by W. HARDWICKE BAY extends from Corny point N.E. by N. 28 miles to the south point of Wardang isle, and is 18 miles deep. From Corny point, the coast consists of a sandy beach, backed by gently rising woody land, and curves eastward 12^ miles to Souttar point, on which is a sand-hill, partly white and 85 feet high. At 4 miles east pf Corny point are some shepherds' huts, and a well of good water at half a mile from the beach. There is anchorage in 4 J fathoms water North of the huts, with Corny point bearing W. by S. i S. A spit with 6 to 18 feet water on it, projects 3 miles north from a low sandy point at 4 miles west of Souttar point, having as little as 9 feet on it at 2J miles from the shore. From this spit a 4-fathoms bank extends 6 miles to the north-east. There is good shelter with smooth water, in 3J fathoms, between the spit and Souttar point, half a mile from the beach. From Souttar point the coast trends E. by S. one mile, and then curves round to Turton point, a cliffy S.-r chart, No. '2,{iS[}(f. Chap. IV.] HARDWICKB BAY. 221 projection E.S.E. 4-^ miles from Souttar point. There are 3 to 4 fathoms water half a mile from the shore, which consists of small stony beaches and low limestone cliffs. From Turton point a sandy beach, forming the bight of Hardwicke bay, cm'ves round 5 miles in an E.N.E. direction, with low sandy land extending between two wooded ranges, in a S.S.E. direction, and forming the narrowest part of Yorke peninsula, which is there only 9 miles across. Mount Gore, S. I E. 5^ miles from Souttar point, is 82(i feet high. From the bight of Hardwicke bay the coast extends north 26 miles to Gawler point, and consists of sandy beaches and low rocky points, with a coast range of sand-hills, behind which the country gradually rises to the height of 400 feet at about 5 miles inland. Soundings. — The general depth of water in Hardwicke bay is cables distant : 6 cables distant on the same bearing there are 24 to 2fi feet water. A vessel drawing more than 10 feet must approach the jetty by keeping its outer end bearing S.E. by E. J E. (S. 59° E.), and 10 feet is the greatest draught of vessel that can be altogether along- side the jetty. If drawing more than 8 feet do not bring the outer end of the jetty to bear south of S.E. or north of N.E. while within half a mile of the shore, to clear the 9-feet rocks. Any sailing vessel going alongside the jetty should let go an anchor to ride by, in case it becomes too rough to lie alongside. Port Rickaby is off a sandy beach 10 miles S. by E. of Gawler point. The length of beach clear of fronting rocks is nearly 4 cables. To the northward there are rocks which cover and uncover, projecting 4 cables from high-water mark, half a mile N. J W. from the north end of the beach. The high-water line at the back of the beacli runs N. by W. and S. by E. with two bare sand-hills behind, the northern 58 and the southern 55 feet high. From the south end of the beach the coast runs S.S.W. 3 cables to a rocky point, with rocks which dr^^ at low- water one cable off it. The outer end of the rocks with 10 feet water on it, and 20 to 22 feet close-to outside, is 2^ cables west of the point. South of the southern beach sand-hill there is a gap through which Rickaby's house is visible from the westward ; sand-hills then commence again, one being 69 feet high with shea- oaks on the top, at half a mile to the southward of the beach. The jetty is 660 feet long, with 14 1 feet at its outer end at low water. There is a black warping buoy about 300 feet north-west of the jetty end attached to an anchor, to be used for hauling off only. A strong sea breeze causes enough run on Rickaby beach, to make care necessary in landing. Sounding's. — Off the clear beach the general 3-fathoms line is only 1]^ cables distant. Several rocky patches, vnth 16 to 18 feet water on them, lie farther out, the most distant being nearly 4 cables west from the centre of the beach. The bottom is very irregular farther out, but there is nothing less than 20 feet, and 5 fathoms at one mile off shore. Directions. — From one mile S.W. of Wardang island the course is S.E. i E. (S. 48° E.) 11 mlL^s. From the southward, one mile N.W. of Corny point the course is N.E. by E. ^ E. (N. 59° E.) See chart No. 2,889//. Chap. IV.] PORT RICKABY. — GAWLER POINT. 225 27^ mile?, but Corny point must be kept south of S.W. by W. until mount Gore (which is the highest land to the southward of Turton point), bears South, to avoid the shoal ground in the south part of Hardwicke bay. Anchor a large vessel three- quarters of a mile off shore, with the southern beach sand-hill (on which there is a pole), bearing East, in 4 to 4| fathoms ; a small vessel with the sand-hill on the same bearing, 2 cables off shore, in 3^ fathoms. To clear all dangers do not come within a mile of the coast, until the southern beach sandhill bears between E.N.E. and S.E. A westerly gale might oblige a vessel to slip her cable, therefore, have room to get underway. GAWLER POINT. — Gawler point is low, sloping and grassy, whence port Victoria extends N. by W. 4 miles. Rocks which cover and uncover stretch from Gawler point 3^ cables towards Eclipse rock, with IG to 20 feet between. WARDANG ISLE, the south point of which lies W. by S. i S. G miles from Gawler point, is 4 miles long, north and south, 2 miles broad, and rises to a grassy surface 107 feet high towards its west side, which consists of a succession of small sandy beaches and rocky points, with sand-hills towards the north end of the island, where there are some remarkable cliffy points. With the exception of a red cliff 50 feet high within a mile of the north point of Wardang isle, its east side forms a continuous sandy beach. Bird point being about the middle. From Bird point, a sandy spit, intersected hj three narrow boat channels, stretches 3^ miles in an E.N.E. direction into port Victoria. These channels are liable to change in position and depth. On the north side of this spit, at 2J miles from Bird point, and South three-quarters of a mile from the north-west point of port Victoria, is Rocky islet. Between Rocky islet and the north-west point of port Victoria, is a channel half a mile wide, with G to 9 feet water, leading into port Victoria. Goose islet, which is small and grassy, lies 4 cables off the north point of Wardang isle, with which it is connected at low water. Two small drj^ rocks lie 2 cables north of the islet. ISLAND POINT, which forms the north-east side of the north entrance of port Victoria, is a low grassy projection N.E. 2^ miles See charts, No. 2,389& and No. 752, port Victoria, scale m = 2 inches SO 11712 P 226 • SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. from Wardang isle, with a small islet 20 feet high, Ij^iiig close off it, the islet being connected with the point at low water. Dangers. — Beatrice rock, N. by W. 7 cables from Island point, does not show at high water ; a small portion of it dries 2 feet at low water. Another small rock, which dries 3 feet at low water, springs, lies W. by S. ^ S. nearly one mile from Island point, and from its position near the entrance, is dangerous to vessels working into port Victoria. North, entrance to port Victoria, which lies between Wardang isle and Island point, is protected from the southward by the long sandy spit which projects E.N.E. from the east side of the isle. Green islet, E.N.E. 1^ miles from the red cliff on the north-east end of Wardang isle, is connected at low water with the shore to the east of it. There is anchorage here in 3 J to k fathoms, with good holding ground of ooze, and well sheltered from all except North and N.W. winds. Directions. — In running in from the westward, the rocks which lie north of Goose islet may be rounded in 4 and 5 fathoms, at the distance of a cable ; but if it be necessary to make a tack outside Green islet, a vessel should go round before Rocky islet on the spit comes in line with Green islet, or when the latter islet bears S.E. Anclioragre. — The best anchorage for large vessels is in 4 J fathoms water, sand and mud, with Goose islet bearing West, and Bird point South ; but smaller vessels may anchor farther to the southward. PORT VICTORIA.— The bay north-west of Gawler point is called port Victoria. The water in the bay is shallow, but there are from 3^ to 5 fathoms, sand, for IJ miles between N.N.W. and West of Gawler point, with shelter from all winds except those from between W.S.W. and South ; the holding ground is not good, and north-west and westerly gales generally terminate with a gale from S.W., when this is a dangerous anchorage. The jetty is three-quarters of a mile North of Gawler point, and runs N.W. by W. J W. 1,095 feet from high- water mark, with 10 feet water at its outer end and 6 feet GOO feet in, the low-water mark being 850 feet from its outer end. There is a crane on the jetty. See chart, No. 752. Chap. IV.] PORT VICTORIA. 227 There are three black warping buoys ofr the jetty, one to the north- west and two to the north-east, to be used for hauling off only. With a fresh S.W. wind (the prevailing sea breeze), a vessel cannot lie on its south side. Wauraltee (the township) had a population of 117 in 1891. There are six mails a week from Adelaide, and there is a telegraph station here. The main street is in line with the jetty. Eclipse rock lies W. by S. ^ S. 2| cables from the outer end of the jetty, and N. ^ W. 7 cables from the north part of Gawler point. Its extent, with 6 feet water, is 70 yards east and west, and 100 yards north and south, and double those distances with less than 12 feet. Midway to the jetty there are 8 feet water. Buoy. — A red buoy, with staff and ball, lies in 9 feet on the north edge of the rock, with the jetty end bearing E. ^ N. 3 cables. LIGHT. — A fixed white light is shown from a small wooden house at the end of the jetty, and is visible 4 miles. Directions. — From one mile South of Wardang isle steer N.E. by E. (N. 56° E.) 7 miles to port Victoria, taking care not to bring the end of the rocks off the south point of Wardang isle to bear south of S.W. by W. to avoid the shoals between the isle and port Victoria. From one mile N.W. of Corny point to port Victoria jetty the course is N.E. \ N. (N. 39° E.) 33^ miles. Gawler point is steep to the westward, there being 3 fathoms less than a cable off. The buoy on Eclipse rock should not be approached nearer than a cable ; to clear this rock and the rocks north of Gawler point, the west side of the point should not be brought to bear south of S. by E. until the outer end oi' the jetty bears south of East, when the jetty may be steered for. Anchorage. — Vessels of 18 feet draught anchor in 21 to 23 feet water, with the jetty end bearing S.E. ^ E. distant half a mile. If of more draught, with the jetty end bearing East, three-quarters of a mile in 26 to 27 feet. Small vessels unable to go alongside the jetty anchor in 10 or 12 feet water with the jetty end S.S.E. distant 1^ cables. TIDES and TIDAL STREAMS.— It is high water, full and change, in port Victoria, at 2 h. 40 m. ; springs rise 5 feet. The tidal St'e chart, No 752. so 11712 P 2 228 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. streams set North and South ; about IJ knots to the northward during the rising tide. REEF POINT, N.N.E. 3 miles from Island point, is low, with a reddish cliff or bank on its west side, and a remarkable white sand- patch 4 cables south of it. Ledges of rocks, which dry, extend about 400 yards west and a quarter of a mile north from the point, and a sunken reef half a mile north-west. Several detached rocks, upon which the sea generally breaks at low water, extend 2 miles north of Reef point. The COAST. — Between Reef point and a low rocky projection at N.N.E. 5 miles from it, named Balgowan point, the low coast forms a sandy bay 1^ miles deep in its southern part ; it is inaccessible to vessels on account of the rocks in it, and the shoal water which extends nearly 2 miles off shore to the Westward. Behind a flat, which dries nearly half a mile off the south shore of the bay, there are some wells of brackish water, used for watering sheep of the neighbouring stations. Balgowan point has a grassy summit and a sandy beach on either side. Jetty. — A jetty runs out 120 feet from Balgowan point and has a depth of 4 J feet at its outer end at low water. From this point the coast trends north 3 miles to some low red cliffs in a small open bay, and mostly consists of red cliffs, rising in one place to the height of 54 feet. This part of the coast is bolder than that to the southward or northward, there being generally 3 fathoms half a mile off the cliffs. The coast from the little open bay just noticed consists of a sandy beach extending N. by W. J W. 4 miles to some bare white sand-hills, close to which are the Tipara wells ; but the water is brackish. From the bare white sand-hills a continuation of the sandy beach trends N.N.W. 3 J miles to cape Elizabeth, and is bordered with rocky ledges, which in some places run out half a mile. There is no anchorage to be recommended between Island point and cape Elizabeth, there being no good holding ground along this coast, w^hich is exposed to the westward. Fish is plentiful all along the shore between port Victoria and cape Elizabeth, principally schnapper, mackerel, and whiting. See chart, No. 2,381.»&. Chap. IV.] CAPE ELIZABETH. 229^ DIRECTIONS. — In working down this coast small vessels generally keep close inshore ; but large ones should not approach the bay north of Reef point, within 2 miles, as the water shoals suddenly in some places, from 6 fathoms to less than 6 feet. Sounding's. — There are regular soundings in 25 to 28 fathoms, fine brown sand, across Spencer gulf from Corny point to Dangerous reef, northward of Thistle island. At 3 miles off the reddish cliffs along the centre of the bight between Reef point and cape Elizabeth there are 8 fathoms, then the depth gradually increases westward, to 17 and 18 fathoms at about 25 miles from the coast, CAPE ELIZABETH, the south-west point of Tipara bay, is a rounded sandy point, clothed with scanty vegetation ; a long sandy beach, with rocky ledges one quarter of a mile to half a mile from the shore, extends S.S.E. ^ E. from the cape ; and north-east of it is a small cliffy point. Close to the southward of the cape are some sand-hills covered with bush, which from seaward appear as separate lumps, the highest being 70 feet above high water. The land behind the cape is very low, level, and grassy. Reef. — A ledge of rocks runs out about 3 cables from cape Elizabeth ; and a dangerous rocky patch, which is awash at low water, springs, lies with its outer edge, N.W. by W., a little moro than three-quarters of a mile from the cape, with a 2-fathoms channel between them ; but the channel is of no use, as the tidal streams rush through it to the N.E. and S.W. at the rate of nearly 3 knots. Buoy. — A red buoy with staff and ball is moored in 4^ fathoms water, 3 cables west of the shoalest part of the reef, with caye Elizabeth bearing E. by S. ^ S., and the lighthouse on Tipara reef N.N.W. I W. The buoy may be seen in clear weather, at the distance of 2 miles. Dangers. — A small 3-fathoms rocky patch lies about N. :J W. a little more than a mile from cape Elizabeth ; and N.N.E. 1^ to 2 miles from the cape is a shoal nearly half a mile across, with 2 J to 3 fathoms water on it. There are 3J fathoms between the shoal and the rocky patch, and 3J to 6 fathoms between the latter and the other rocky patch before noticed, off cape Elizabeth. The sounding's off cape Elizabeth deepen to 8 and 10 fathoms, See chart, No. 402, Tickera point to cape Elizabeth, including Wallaroo and Tipara bays, scale w = 1-2 inches. 230 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. at the distance of 4 miles, over a sandy, rocky, or coral bottom ; and 13 miles off the cape are 12 and 13 fathoms, mixed sand. TIPARA BAY extends from cape Elizabeth N. by E. ^ E. 8 miles to Long point, and is 3 miles deep. Its eastern shore is only 2h miles distant from the Moonta copper mines, which are the most valuable and productive on the Yorke peninsula. This fine bay is used as a shipping place for the ore raised, for which purpose it is as available as Wallaroo bay to the northward. The shore. — From cape Elizabeth the southern shore of Tipara bay trends east 2J miles to the west point of the southern bight of the bay, which curves round eastward and northward 3 miles to Sand-hill point. Rocky ledges project 200 to 300 yards from the shore for about IJ miles eastward from the cape, and there is a small ledge at the head of the bight. This shore of the bay is fronted by a sand-flat, which dries from half a mile to nearly one mile from the land ; and there are some salt swamps behind the bight. Nearly E.N.E. 4 miles from cape Elizabeth is a sand-hill 100 feet high, which is one of the highest hills bordeiing Tipara bay. This, like those farther north, is covered with bushes, except on its side, where a considerable bare space distinguishes it from the other hills. This sand-hill, when seen from the northern part of the bay, appears as a point. From Sand-hill point, which has a rocky ledge projecting from it a quarter of a mile to low-water mark, a sandy beach trends N.N.E. 2 miles to Middle point, backed by sand-hills 50 to 60 feet high, covered with bush. From nearly one mile off Sand-hill point, the 3-fathoms edge of the shoal water fronting the shore gradually closes the land to about 1^ cables off Middle point. Middle point, on which is the site of Port Hughes, is a rocky projection, with a smooth grassy summit, and may be more closely approached by large vessels than any other pari of the shore in Tipara bay, there being anchorage in 4 fathoms, ooze, about 3 cables west of the beach. The eastern shore of Tipara bay, after receding a quarter of a mile eastward from Middle point, trends N.N.E. 2 miles, and mostly consists of sandy cliffs of a light reddish colour, with rocky points See chart, No. 402. Chap. IV.] TIPARA BAY. 231 and ledges of rocks projecting to low- water mark, 200 to 400 yards from the shore. At 1^ miles north of Middle point the land rises from the shore to a hill 105 feet high ; the land north-east of the l^oint being smooth and grassy. From three-quarters of a mile N.N.E. of this hill, the shore curves round to the north-west for 3 miles to a low j)oint, and forms a fine sandy bay, with a sand-flat that dries nearly half a mile out at low water ; the 3-fathoms edge of the shoal water fronting it, extending from one-third of a mile to one mile from the shore. Sounding's. — Between the shoal water extending from Long point and the north-eastern shore of Tipara bay, there are 4 fathoms at about 1} miles from Long point, and from the beach to the east- ward. From 2 miles south of Long point to about the same distance north-east of cape Elizabeth, a space of 4 miles, the depth of water only varies from G to 5J fathoms, with 5 to 4 fathoms one mile off any part of the eastern shore, and 5 fathoms half a mile off Middle point, the bottom being sand and shells. LONG POINT. — From the north end of the sandy bay just noticed, a low mangrove shore, with rocky ledges projecting half a mile to the southward, extends 1^ miles west to Long point ; this point is rocky, and about 20 feet high, with a mangrove shore on either side. Buoy. — A large red buoy with staff and ball lies in 3 fathoms, at the west end of the shoal water extending from" Long point, with cape Elizabeth bearing S. ^ E., and Long point E. by N. | N. ShoaL — The 3-fathoms edge of the shoal water stretching out from Long point extends from 1| miles southward of the point to Long point buoy, and then sweeps round in a north-east direction towards Wallaroo bay. At about 6 miles from the land there are 6 fathoms, and where the depth of water is less than 6 fathoms, the bottom is generally sand covered with grass or weed ; but west and south-west of Long point, where the soundings exceed 6 fathoms, the bottom is generally coral. Small vessels may pass inside Long point buoy. Cape Elizabeth bearing S. J W. leads over the bank in 2^ fathoms at low water springs, passing Walrus rock nearly a mile and a half distant, but See chart, No. 402. 232 SPENCER GULP. [Chap. IV only 7 cables off the rock about one mile north-west of it. The vicinity of these rocks should be given a wide berth. Moonta, a mining township about 2 miles inland from the middle point of Tipara bay, near which is situated Port Hughes. There are several copper mines in the vicinity, but the most productive of all are the mines bearing the name of the town, which were discovered in 1861, and give employment to 1,000 hands.* In the first half of 1874, over 11,000 tons of ore were raised, and the gross proceeds amounted to 122,000Z. There is communication with Adelaide by steam vessel via Wallaroo bay ; or by rail, via port Wakefield and Green plains ; also by telegraph. A railway connects Moonta with Wallaroo, 12 miles distant. The population in 1891 was 1,487 persons. xlt Moonta bay, 1^ miles north of Middle point, is a jetty 1,706 feet long, with a depth of 10 feet at its outer end at low water. There are two cranes on the jetty. Ligrllt. — A fixed red light, elevated 15 feet above the sea, is exhibited from a white wooden house at the end of the jetty, and should be visible in clear weather from a distance of 4 miles. The Moonta mines lie East 3 miles from Middle point of Tipara bay, but the buildings and miners' houses cannot be seen from seaward, except from a westerly direction. This part of the country has a very pleasing aspect, being formed of ridges trending straight in from the sea, covered with long grass ; there are clumps of scrub here and there, with undulations of moderate steepness. TIPARA REEF, directly in front of Tipara bay, is a bank of sand extending 2^ miles east and west, and 2 miles north and south. The reef consists principally of sand ; but there is a rocky patch of an oval shape, 600 yards long and 400 yards broad, with its centre N.N.E. ^ E. 7^ cables from the lighthouse, which nearly dries at low water springs. There is also a small patch with only 3 feet water on it, N. J W. IJ miles from the lighthouse. The depths on the reef otherwise vary from IJ fathoms to 2| fathoms. * In 1894, the production was 13,989 tons copper ore, containing 2,931 tons fine copper. See chart, No. 402. Chap. IV.] TIPARA REEF.— DIRECTIONS. 233 Unless it is blowing very strong, there is only a small break on the rocky patch, and none whatever on any other part of Tipara reef ; some of the shallow parts show white, where the sand is clear of weeds. No vessel should approach the reef to a less depth than 7 fathoms. From the northern extremity of Tipara reef Long point buoy bears N.E. by E. 1 E., distant 3^ miles. LIGHT. — An iron screw pile lighthouse, painted red, with a white lantern, is on the south side of Tipara reef, with Long point bearing N.E. by E., and cape Elizabeth S.E. ^ S. The light- house exhibits at 100 feet above high water a revolving white light of the first order, which attains its greatest brilliancy every tliirty seconds, and in clear weather should be visible from a distance of 16 miles. Signal station. — There is a signal station at the lighthouse on the Tipara reef, and communication can be made by the commercial code, but it is not connected by telegraph. Buoy. — A red buoy with staff and ball is moored in 4 fathoms, west of a rocky patch with 12 feet water on it, at the west end of Tipara reef, with Tipara lighthouse bearing S.E. by E. \ E., and the smelting works chimney, Wallaroo, N.E. by E. Sounding's. — At 4 miles west of Tipara reel there are 10 fathoms, coral, and on the north-west side the soundings decrease very regularly towards it, but on the south and south-west sides there is a sudden shoaling from 5 fathoms to the edge of the reef. Between Tipara reef and Tipara bay a broad sandy bank, with 3J to 5 fathoms water on it, extends from the west part of the shoal water stretching out from Long point to the rocky patches north of cape Elizabeth. From j;he shoalest part (3 fathoms) yet discovered on this bank. Middle point of Tipara bay bears nearly E. by S. \ S., and cape Elizabeth S. ^ W. DIRECTIONS. — From the southward bound for Tipara bay; approach cape Elizabeth so as to pass 1^ or 2 miles west of it, to avoid the rocky patch which extends nearly a mile north-west from the cape ; then steer North till the high sand-hill on the south-east side of the bay bears East, when an E.N.E. (N. 67° E.) See chart, No. 402. 234 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. course leads to Middle point, off which there is anchorage ; or a N.E. by E. J E. (N. 59° E.) course leads up to the jetty in Moonta bay. Middle point may be easily known by the coast to the south- ward being sand-hills and bush, whilst Middle point and the land to the northward is smooth and grassy. Southern passage. — Tipara bay may be entered betwe3n cape Elizabeth and the rocky shoals north of it, by rounding the cape at the distance of about a mile, passing close westward of the buoy ; then bring the high sand-hill on the south-east side of the bay to bear E. by N. (N. 79° E.) and steer for it. This course will lead in from 6 to 4 fathoms, about 2 cables north of the shoal water extending from cape Elizabeth, and the same distance from the rocky patch to the northward. From the westward. — To round the south side of Tipara reef do not bring cape Elizabeth to bear south of S.E. ^ E. (S. 51" E.), and keep a mile off the lighthouse ; whilst to pass north of this danger, do not bring Long point buoy to bear north of E. by N. ^ N. (N. 73° E.). Long point, if visible, kept in line with the buoy bearing E. by N. ^ N., will lead a quarter of a mile northward of Tipara reef, in about 4 fathoms. Anchoragre. — In south-westerly gales there is good anchorage in 4^ fathoms water, mud, in the southern part of Tipara bay, with the north-west point of cape Elizabeth bearing S.W. by W., and the high sand-hill E. ^ N. Vessels can also anchor off Middle point in 4 or 5 fathoms water, half a mile from the shore ; or in Moonta bay, in 4 to 5 fathoms, about three-quarters of a mile off the jetty. Tidal streams. — The stream sets N.N.E. during the rising tide, and S.S.W. during the falling tide, at the rate of 2 knots an hour over Tipara reef ; outside it the streams set more North and South. In Tipara bay the stream sets round the coast to the northward during the rising tide, and to the southward during the falling tide. Off Middle point the streams set N.N.E. and S.S.W. ; and along the south side of the bay they set East and West. Off cape Elizabeth the tidal streams are stronger than in Tipara bay, and set N.E. and S.W., about 2 knots. But as the streams are irregular and rapid in the vicinity of Tipara reef, cape Elizabeth, See chart, No. 402. Chap. IV.] TIPARA BAY, DIRECTIONS.— BIRD REEF. 235 and Long point, their influence must be guarded against in these localities. See page 242. WALRUS ROCK, N.N.W. \ W. nearly one mile from Long point, is a dangerous patch 400 yards long, N.E. and S.W., and 200 yards broad. Although there is not more than one foot at low water, springs, on some parts of this patch, the sea does not break upon it in ordinary weather as the shallow water outside it prevents any sea from rolling in. There are strong tide ripples over the rock ; notwithstanding which, small coasters have struck on it. There are only 9 feet water between Walrus rock and the shore. A rock, with only 4 feet water on it, lies N.W., nearly one mile from Walrus rock. As this danger lies in the track of small vessels proceeding to and from Moonta and Wallaroo, they are recommended to give the neighbourhood a wide berth. Clearing: marks. — A pile of stones was erected on the north- east part of Bird reef in 1862, N.N.E. ^ E. 2 J miles from Long point ; if still remaining, keep the pile in line with the smelting chimney at Wallaroo, bearing N.E. by E., which will lead between Walrus rock and the rock above mentioned, in 2 fathoms water. Long point bearing east of S.E., leads to the south-west of both these dangers. The COAST from Long point takes a general north-east direction 6J miles to Hughes point, on the south side of Wallaroo bay, and consists of a low sandy beach, in some places fringed with mangroves, and rocky ledges projecting from half a mile to 400 yards upon sand- flats, which front the shore, and at low water, springs, dry out 1^ miles to Bird reef. Between Long point and Bird reef the flat dries out above three-quarters of a mile, and north-east of the reef the outer edge of the flat closes the shore to about 300 yards ofl: Hughes point. BIRD REEF, which lies nearly N. by E. | E. 2| miles from Long point, and 1\ miles from the shore, is a hard rocky ledge about a quarter of a mile long, N.E. and S.W., and 200 yards broad ; it is awash at high water, springs, but at other times is generally covered with birds. There are 2 fathoms water 2 cables west of Bird reef. Long point buoy, bearing S.W., leads half a mile north-west of the reef. See chart, No. 402. 236 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. BIRD ISLANDS, which are low and covered with mangroves, are situated in line, bearing N.W. by W. ^ W., on the sand-flat between the shore and Bird reef. The outer isle is half a mile and the inner 200 yards long, both being less than 200 yards broad. Sounding's. — From 2^ miles north-west of Long point the 3-fathoms edge of the shoal water which fronts this part of the coast trends N.E. by E. J E. 4 miles to a narrow spit, with 2| to 3 fathoms on it, extending 1^ miles north-east, and 1| miles off shore. From the bight within this spit the 3-fathoms edge of the shoal water closes the shore to about a quarter of a mile off Hughes point. There are three 3-fathoms patches between the spit and Wallaroo bay, lying, respectively. West one mile, W. by N. three-quarters of a mile, and W.N.W. 1| miles from Hughes point. Hugrlies point, on the south side of Wallaroo bay, cannot be dis- tinguished when entering the bay until close to the anchorage. From the westward this point appears as a small red patch on the coast, it being a red cliff about 25 feet high ; at one-third of a mile south-west of the point there is a hill 52 feet high, close to the shore. WALLAROO BAY, situated about half-way up the east side of Spencer gulf, was in 18G2 the only shipping port for the copper ore raised from the adjacent mines on Yorke peninsula. This bay extends from Hughes point N. ^ W. 3^ miles to point Riley, and is about 1| miles deep. There are regular soundings in 4 to 5J fathoms across the bay, from half a mile north of Hughes point to about one mile south of point Riley, and from that line to half a mile from the shore there are 5^ to 4 fathoms, over an even bottom of sand and weed. From Hughes point the shore of Wallaroo bay trends N.E. by E. | E. one mile to Wallaroo jetty, and may be approached to a quarter of a mile in 3J to 4 fathoms water. From the wells, which are three-quarters of a mile north-east from the jetty, a fine sandy beach extends N. by W. J W. 1^ miles, bordered by a sand-flat, which dries off about 2 cables at low water, and has some rocky ledges on it to the northward. From the north end of this beach a rugged rocky coast trends N.W. IJ miles to See chart, No. 402. Chap. IV.] WALLAROO BAY, 237 point Riley. The shore between the wells and the point may be approached to half a mile in 3J fathoms. Storm signal. — A blue swallow-tail flag is hoisted at Wallaroo, on the indication of bad weather. The bar. — At about 5 miles off shore, abreast of Wallaroo bay, there are soundings in 10 and 11 fathoms, sand and shells, whence the depth of water rapidly decreases to 4| and 3^ fathoms on a sort of broad flat bar stretching across outside the entrance of the bay, within which, as just stated, there are 5 J fathoms. As the depth of water on the southern part of this bar decreases to 3 and 2f fathoms on the spit to the south-west of Wallaroo bay, the anchorage, though apparently open and exposed, is only so with winds from N.W. by N. round to West, which winds cause the most sea ; and even with winds from N.W., the 4:-fathoms part of the bar breaks much of the sea, which cannot be very great, as the western shore of Spencer gulf is only distant about 30 miles. The spit to the W.S.W. protects the anchorage from winds in that quarter. Reported danglers. — Numerous dangers have from time to time been reported to lie between the bearings of W.S.W. and W.N.W. from Wallaroo jetty ; these reports are attributed to the shoal appearance of the water on running in from 10 and 11 to 4 and 3^ fathoms ; the bottom then becomes distinctly visible, and the weeds growing at the bottom appear in the sun quite brown, like rocks, with white sand between them. The bottom is sand and apparently even ; no breakers have been seen or reported. 'Wallaroo. — From Hughes point the southern shore of Wallaroo bay, although somewhat rocky, may be approached to a quarter of a mile in 3^ to 4 fathoms, and there are 2J fathoms, close to the old jetty, immediately behind which is situated Wallaroo. The municipality of Wallaroo is elevated about 50 or 60 feet above the beach. The rise of Wallaroo has been rapid, since the discovery of the famous Wallaroo copper mines in 1860, at which time there was only one house in the bay, and the present town site was part of a sheep-run. A railway connects the mines with the port*. The population, in 1801, numbered 1,685 persons, mostly interested in copper. There is communication by the universal telegraph system. A steam vessel calls on her way between Port Augusta and Adelaide ; * In 1894, the quantity of copper ore produced was 1"2,457 tons, containing 1,773 tons fine copper. See chart, No. 402. 238 SPENCER GULP. [Chap. IV. and communication with Adelaide is kept up by coasting vessels ; also the mail, six times a week, by rail via port Wakefield. The new or south-west jetty is of wood, and extends 1,605 feet into 23 feet water at low water, giving berths for six vessels, from 140 to 300 feet in length. There are 12 black warping buoys attached to screw moorings off the new jetty for warping purposes. The old jetty, 800 feet in length, with a depth of 16 feet at the outer end at low water, is closed, except possibly for landing mails and passengers. Rails are laid on these jetties in connection with the railway system ; the new jetty is provided with hydraulic cranes. The Custom-house is a one-storied stone building near the shore, 150 yards east of the old jetty. It is also the court-house and residence of the sub-collector of customs, who is also harbour master and shipping master. In 1892, GG vessels of a tonnage of 43,982 entered and cleared at Wallaroo. The imports are coal,* general merchandise and timber ; the exports, wheat, copper ore, copper, and flour. Smelting is carried on, on a very extensive scale, and the works are the largest in the colony. There is a large smelting establish- ment for copper ore close to the water's edge, 300 to 400 yards east of the Custom-house. The chimney, which is square and built of light-coloured bricks, rises from about the centre of the works to the height of 140 feet above high water. As it is much higher than any of the adjacent land, it shows well from seaward, and can be seen over Long point. During the frequent northerly winds the chimney is apparently so raised by mirage that it can be discerned 20 miles off, and has been distinctly seen from a boat off cape Elizabeth, a distance of 15 miles. In a calm the smoke may be seen at a much greater distance. The smelting furnaces are arranged in a long line facing the north-west, and from seaward have some resemblance to a heavy battery with more than 30 embrasures ; the light from the furnaces can be seen from a distance of about 6 miles north-west of Wallaroo, as one or two doors are nearly always open, showing a brilliant light near the water's edge. N.N.E. half a mile from the smelting works chimnej^ is a bare sand-hill, at the foot of which, on the beach, are some wells * About 2.">,000 tons of coal are now imported annually. See chart, Xo. 402. Chap. IV.] WALLAROO. 239 of brackish water, where most of the live stock of Wallaroo are watered. Light. — A fixed red light, elevated 25 feet above the sea, and visible in clear weather from a distance of 4 miles, is exhibited from a white wooden house at the end of the new jetty. Supplies. — Fresh meat, both of beef and mutton, may be pro- cured at Wallaroo ; also abundance of firewood, but no vegetables nor fruit. Water. — Wallaroo is in a Government water district, and is supplied from the Beetaloo maias ; the principal reservoir at Beetaloo springs has a capacity of 800,000,000 gallons. There is a stand pipe on the jetty. The mean annual rainfall at Wallaroo is 13 '45 inches. POINT RILEY, on the northern side of Wallaroo bay, is a cliffy projection, but is not easily distinguished until well in to the southward or northward of it, the back land being very much higher than the point, which is only 45 feet high. A ledge of rocks projects about a quarter of a mile west and south-west from the point ; the soundings for more than half a mile off it are irregular, and the bottom is rocky. Riley shoal, the west end of which lies S.W. by W. \ W. 1^ miles from point Riley, and N.W. \ W. 3J miles from the smelting chimney, is a bank of hard sand, with 9 feet on its shoalest part at low water springs. This bank is about 800 yards long east and west, and 300 yards broad ; its shoalest part shows white, from the tidal streams washing away the weed, which thickly covers the sandy bottom in other parts of Wallaroo bay. Buoys. — A red buoy with staff and ball is placed on the north side of Riley shoal near the shoalest part, with point Riley bearing N.E. by E. I E., rather more than a mile, and the smelting chimney S.E. \ E., nearly 3^ miles. Vessels should not approach this buoy under 4 fathoms when working into Wallaroo bay. Two 3 fathoms rocky patches, with 3^ to 4J fathoms about them, lie nearly midway between Riley shoal and the south side of Riley point ; and a rocky shoal, having 2| fathoms on it, with a 3-fathoms patch at 2 cables to the south west of it, lies N.W. by W. \ W. nearly See chart, Xo. -102. 240 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. one mile from the point. For a radius of about one mile from Riley shoal the soundings are irregular, varying from 5 and 4^ fathoms to the westward, to 5 and 3^ fathoms to the southward and south- eastward of the shoal . A red perch buoy with ball is placed close to a shoal patch, with 16 feet at low water, lying about a mile south of Riley shoal buoy, with the following bearings : — point Riley N.E. by N., and the smelting chimney S.E. by E. ^ E. Vessels beating up to the anchorage with S.E. winds should not bring the old jetty south of E.S.E., until point Riley bears north of N.N.E. Aspect. — The land between cape Elizabeth and point Riley presents no prominent feature ; and at 10 or 12 miles off the land the outline appears nearly straight and of a uniform dark colour, from the thick scrub that clothes the back land. The objects on the coast are low, and not seen distinctly until close in. The lighthouse on Tipara reef is a prominent object. During the frequent northerly winds the mirage is so great that everything appears distorted, and the aspect of the coast entirely different to what it usually is. DIRECTIONS for WALLAROO BAY.— In running for Wallaroo bay from the southward, during the daytime, it is advisable, in a large vessel, to shape a course to pass 8 miles west of cape Elizabeth. From that position steer North, taking care not to approach. Tipara reef to less than 7 fathoms. When Tipara lighthouse bears E.S.E. distant 5 miles, steer N.E. When the smelting chimney bears East, haul right in for it ; but if of much draught, run in with the chimney bearing E. by S., which passes over 3^ fathoms, or E.S.E., which passes over 4 fathoms. The best anchorage is off the end of the jetty in 4 fathoms, sand, with the smelting chimney bearing E. by S. to E.S.E., and Hughes point S.W. If a passage nearer the land be preferred, do not approach Tipara lighthouse from the westward to less than 7 fathoms. From 2 miles west of the lighthouse steer N.N.W. in 4J and 5 fathoms, this passes 3 cables west of the red buoy at the west end of Tipara reef, till See chart, No. 402. Chap. IV.] WALLAROO BAY, DIRECTIONS. 241 Long point buoy bear.^ East ; then steer N.E., taking care not to go into less than 4 J fathoms. When Long point buoy bears South steer N.E. by E., and when the smelting chimney bears East proceed as before directed. Should a vessel run too far to leeward, and have to work into Wallaroo bay against a south-east or south wind, or work out against a north-west wind, tack off shore when the chimney bears S.E. by E., if Riley point is east of N.N.E. to avoid Riley shoal. When to the southward of that danger the chimney may be brought as far south as S.E. by S. Pilot. — Sea pilotage is not coinpulsory, but a pilot may generally be obtained. The employment of the harbour master as harbour pilot is compulsory. The limit of harbour pilotage is within one mile of the outer end of the new jetty. Working'. — Large vessels working up for Wallaroo bay from ihe southward should keep outside Tipara reef, not shoaling to less than 7 fathoms, or not bringing cape Elizabeth to bear south of S.E. till the smelting chimney bears N.E. by E. ^ E., when the vessel may stand into 4J fathoms, taking care not to get into less water till the chimney bears East, as the water shoals quickly from 9 to 4 and 3 fathoms. Inner passag'e. — To pass eastward, or inside Tipara reef from the southward to Wallaroo bay ; give cape Elizabeth a berth of IJ miles, passing half a mile west of the buoy, to avoid the rocky patch off the cape, then steer N. ^ E., which will lead through the passage inside Tipara reef, in not less than 4 fathoms, passing three- quarters of a mile eastward of the reef ; when Tipara lighthouse bears S.W. by W., steer N. ^ W. and pass half a mile west of Long point buoy. Beating* throug*!!, keep the lead going and when standing in shore, a vessel drawing more than 17 feet should not bring Long point buoy west of W.N.W. ; and in standing off, when in the vicinity of Tipara reef, the east end of the reef will be avoided by not bringing Long point buoy to bear east of N.N.E. Small vessels may pass inside Long point buoy, taking care not to bring cape Elizabeth to bear west of S. ^ W., so as to avoid Walrus S('c chart, No. 402. so 11712 Q 242 SPENCER nuLF. [Chap. iv. rock, and the sunken rock N.W. nearly a mile from it, which rock the above bearing of the cape passes in 2h fathoms at the distance of rather over half a mile. At NIGHT, in the vicinity of Tipara reef, do not go into less than 7 fathoms, and ascertain the position by bearings of Tipara reef light and the courses iand distances run in the intervals. When the light bears E.S.E. distant 5 miles, the depth of water being 10 fathoms, steer a N.E. course for 10 miles, the depth not being less than 7 fathoms. Tipara reef light will then bear S. by W. and the course should be altered to East. The depth of water must not be reduced below 6 fathoms. The smelting lights should now be seen ahead and when the red light on the jetty is seen, bring it to bear E. J N. or E. by S. and approach it according to the draught. Except in fine weather it is unadvisable to enter the bay at night in a sailing ship. Anchorage. — There is good anchorage in Wallaroo bay, in 4 fathoms, water, with the old jetty end bearing E.S.E. distant 2 cables. Vessels can anchor in 3 fathoms, with the end of the old jetty bearing S.S.E. to South, or may find berths alongside the jetties. Vessels alongside the new jetty use moorings. Vessels along- side the old jetty have an anchor laid out well to the N.N.W. with a long scope of chain ; and in casting off swing clear when the wind is from N.W. to W.S.W., the only winds which throw any sea into Wallaroo bay. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, in Wallaroo and Tipara bays, at 5 h. 45 m. ; springs rise 4 feet 8 inches, but both the time of high water and the rise and fall are subject to the wind. When there is no disturbing cause the ebb and flow are regular at the time of springs, and for two or three days before and after ; but at neaps there are great irregularities, the tide sometimes remaining nearly stationary for 24 hours, and with one ebb and flow during that period, at which time the stream along the coast is very weak and irregular. The ordinary methods of finding the time of high water are impracticable at Wallaroo, as it is frequently high water at about the same time every day for a week. Light easterly and northerly winds bring the lowest tides and See chart, No. 402. Chap. IV.] WALLAROO BAY, TIDES, WINDS. 243 south-westerly gales the highest; in the latter case high water generally remains stationary till the wind begins to lull. From October to March the tides are more regular and the tide generally falls about a foot lower than from April to September. As a general rule, at springs from October to March, it is high water at 6 a.m. ; low water at noon, or an hour before. From April to September, high water, 6 p.m. ; low water, midnight. Tidal streams. — At the anchorage in Wallaroo bay the stream is barely felt ; but when the wind is blowing strong into the bay there is a sensible set to windward. Outside the line from Hughes point to Riley point the stream sets to the N.E. during the rising tide, and to the S.W. during the falling tide, about one knot. Outside Tipara reef the streams set North and South, but within it the streams follow the line of coast. A westerly gale seems to have the same effect on the stream that it has on the rise and fall, causing a long flood or north-going stream, and stopping the ebb altogether. "Winds. — During the four months, August to November 1862, no particular wind could be said to prevail, as it shifted round the com- pass every three or four days. After a day or two of calms, or land and sea breezes, the former from the East, and the latter from S.W., the wind veered to the northward ; at first light with a clear sky, the barometer falling sometimes to 29*5 inches, and the land on the opposite side of the Spencer gulf becoming miraged into view. If the wind shifted to N.W., and the sky became overcast, and the barometer did not rise, a gale was expected. On the barometer beginning to rise, the wind shifted to West and S.W., Avith a clear sky. When the wind in veering gets to S.W. or West, and backs to N.W. again, some heavy weather may be expected, which sometimes lasts two or three days. The wind from the northward is very hot, even in winter, and the shift of wind to the westward sometimes comes in heavy squalls, accompanied by thunder and lightning, the blast being extremely hot. If the wind shifts from North to S.W., and does not back, and the barometer suddenly rises, the weather remains fine. From November to March the prevailing winds are South and S.W. sometimes blowing for weeks together in Spencer gulf, with land See chart, No, 402. SO 11712 Q 2 244 SPENCER GULP. [Chap. IV. and sea breezes in shore, the south-west wind sometimes blowing very freshlj', but occasionally interrupted by a day or two of hot wind from the North. The barometer is a very good guide, and rises rapidly as a gale shifts to the S.W., after which the wind soon subsides. TICKERA BAY. — From point Riley a rocky coast and lime- stone cliffs trend N.N.E. | E. 3^ miles to Tickera point, and in the same direction for 5 miles further to Tickera bay, a slight indentation of the coast, Avith a smooth sandy beach, fronted by sand-flats, and extending from the end of the cliffs. N.E. by N. 4 miles. About the middle of the bay is a red cliff 44 feet high, with some huts to the southward of it. Anchorage. — Tickera bay affords anchorage in 3 fathoms, about one mile off shore, sheltered from winds south of S.W., with the huts bearing S. by E. This anchorage is partially protected by a 2 and 3 fathoms spit, which runs out to the north-west. The COAST. — From Tickera bay a smooth sandy beach extends N.E. by N. 4^ miles to a small bight, and thence continues in the same direction 5^ miles to Webling point. The whole of this beach is fronted by a fiat stretching out one to 2 miles, with 3 J and 4 fathoms water about 2 miles from the shore, except off Webling point, where a 2J fathoms spit runs out 3 miles W.N.W. from the point. From Webling point the low coast sweeps round north-eastward about 3 miles to the entrance of the south Hamilton lagoon. Aspect. — The back land between point Riley and Webling point rises to between 100 and 200 feet high, at 2 or 3 miles in shore ; it is nearly level, and covered with thick scrub. From a distance at sea the clear grassy spaces at Tickera look like the face of a cliff. Webling" point is higher than any of the coast to the northward, and is thickly covered with green scrub and stunted pines ; there is a bank of reddish earth 50 feet high, just north of the point. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, at Webling point, at 6 h. 10 m. ; springs rise G to 9 feet. Hamilton lagoons are two shallow inlets east and north-east Sec chart, No. 2,889/>. Chap. IV.] TICKERA BAY. — PORT BROUGHTON. 245 of Webling point, surrounded by swampy land, except on their east sides, which are thickly wooded ; the entrances are about 2 cables wide, with narrow^ boat -channels leading in through the sand-flats Avhicli extend nearly 2 miles oft" shore. The channel leading into the south lagoon has 6 or 8 feet at low water, and in some parts more than 2 fathoms ; the entrance cannot be distinguished until close in with the land, as it is embayed and hid by mangroves. From the entrance this lagoon runs in ai)0ut 2| miles to the southward, and is 1^ miles wide at its south end ; at low water, springs, it is nearly dry. Here is situated Port Broughton. The entrance of the north lagoon lies 2j miles northward of that- just described, and can be plainly distinguished from seaward, having a red cliff on its north side, and a' small mangrove islet W.S.W. one mile from it ; but the channel leading into it is entirely blocked up at low water, springs. This lagoon runs straight in from the entrance, nearly at right angles to the coast, and is about 2 miles across ; like the southern lagoon, it is nearly dry at low water springs. The COAST. — From the entrance of the north Hamilton lagoon the coast trends N. by W. 8 miles, and West 2^ miles to Wood's point, and forms a sandy beach, having low swampy land behind, and is fronted by a hard sand-flat, which dries 2 to 4 miles out. PORT BROUGHTON.— At this port, on the east side of the south Hamilton lagoon, a jetty has been built and Mundoora channel (leading to the port) dredged to a depth of 6 feet at low water and not less than 40 fe6t in width. This port is the nearest to a rich wheat- producing country, east of the Barn hill range. The jetty is 1,260 feet long with 10 feet water at its outer end. Port Broughton, a post town with a telegraph station, is connected by a railway with the town of Mundoora 10 miles inland. The population is 350. Water. — Port Broughton is supplied with water by the Beetaloo mains. Mundoora channel, leading to Port Broughton is marked by one perch buoy at the entrance, 13 tub-shaped buoys, 27 cask buoys, and 1 pile beacon, all painted red, to be left on the starboard hand going in. On the port hand, one perch buoy at the entrance, and 2 pile beacons, ail painted black. Directions. — From the southward, bound for Mundoora channel. See chart, No. 2,389//. 24G . SPEXCER GULF. [Chap. IV. after passing Riley point do not approach the land to less than G fathoms of water, in order to avoid the long hard sand-flat, which dries at low water springs, and extends from Tickera bay to the entrance of the channel, a distance of 17 miles, running out from the land, in one instance, for nearly 2J miles. With point Riley bearing East 4 miles distant, a course of N.N.E. ^ E. (N. 28° E.) 25 miles will lead into a good position for entering the channel, and about 4 miles off ; at this distance the outer bar beacons marking the old entrance will be distinguished ; if not, bring Barn hill (a flat-topped mountain) with a saddle and small peak immediately north of it —remarkable objects from the offing — to bear E. ^ S. (S. 84° E.), then run in. ' Leave the red buoys on the starboard hand entering, and when approaching the entrance, bear towards the perch buoys, as by passing either of these at a distance of 70 or 80 feet, a small knoll which lies in mid-channel, and has a foot less water upon it, will be avoided. By following these directions, when nearing or crossing the entrance, not less than 6 feet at low water will be obtained.* The bar consists of a long shallow patch, of about 150 yards in length, covered with grass, and extends across the whole breadth of the channel. Anchorage. — Large vessels can bring up in 5J fathoms water, good holding ground, about 1^ miles to the westward of the outer bar. Wood's point, nearly N. ^ W. 12 miles from Webling point, is a low sandy projection, with a clump of trees a little in-shore ; the sand-flat fronting it dries out 3 miles at low water, springs, and a spit runs out from the flat W.N.W. 4 miles from the point. Jarrold point. — The low sandy beach from Wood's point sweeps round north-eastward 3 miles to a swampy bight, with clumps of wood behind it, extending 2^ miles across from S.E. to N.W., whence the low coast trends north-west 4^ miles to Jarrold point, which is low and sandy. This coast is in some parts broken where the water forces its way into the swamps behind. The sand and mud-flats which border the shore, and uncover at low water springs, extend about 1^ miles off Jarrold point. * The channel is so narrow, tortuous and shallow and the tidal stream so strong, that loaded lighters have great diflSculty in getting out. Sec chart, No. 403, Wood's point to Lowly point, scale /// = 10 inch. Chap. IV.] wood's point.— middle bank. 247 SllOals.— A shoal, reported in 1880, with 5 fathoms over it, is situated in lat. 33° 26' S., long. 137° 36' E., with mount Young bearing N. by W. | W. (distant 20^ miles). Four-fathoms shoal lies 10 miles northward of this shoal, see page 213. In 1885 a shoal (Musgrave shoal) was reported with its centre about S.S.W. I W., 4 miles from the buoy on the south end of Eastern shoal. This shoal, with a depth of 4 fathoms on it at low water springs, and 7 to 8 fathoms close around, extends about one mile in a north and south direction and three-quarters of a mile east and west. The COAST. — From Jarrold point the mangrove coast trends N.N.E. 3^ miles to the entrance of Germein bay. The low land behind is partially flooded at high water springs, and the sand and mud-flat dries out 1| miles at low-water springs. Soundings. — The sand and mud-flats which extend along shore from Hamilton lagoons to the entrance of Germein bay are fronted by shoal water of 2 to 3 fathoms, extending generally about 2 miles from the flats, with a 3-fathoms spit extending 3 miles north-west of Jarrold point. Aspect. — From a hill (which may be seen from Spencer gulf) bearing E. J N., distant 26 miles from point Riley, a hilly range takes a general N. ^ W. direction nearly 30 miles to a hill, 612 feet high, bearing East, distant 11^ miles from Wood's point. Barn hill, E. ^ N. 13 miles from Webling point, is conspicuous, 1,169 feet high, with a flat top, and a saddle with a small peak immediately north of it ; at 9 miles farther south is another hill, which is 1,370 feet high. These hills are too distant to be of much use to the navigator. Middle bank, which lies nearly midway between Webling point and the opposite side of Spencer gulf, and has 3 to 4^ fathoms water on it, extends N. \ E. and S. \ W. 13 miles, including the extension to the northward reported in 1885, and is about 3 miles across. The shoalest part is a patch 1^ miles long and half a mile broad, with 3 fathoms on it, and situated near the eastern edge of the bank, with point Riley bearing S. \ E., distant 17 miles, and Plank point N.W. by W. J W. nearly 15 miles. The south extreme of Middle Sccohnxt, No. 2 339/;, 248 SPEXCER GULF. [Chap. IV. bank lies S. by W. 7 miles, and the north extreme N. ^ W. 6 miles from the centre of its shoalest part. Less water reported. — It has recently been reported that a vessel, drawing 21 feet, grounded on Middle bank, about 5 miles S. ^ W. from the centre of its shoalest part. LIGHT. — A light- vessel, painted red, with one mast carrying a ball at the masthead, is moored in a depth of 3| fathoms at low water springs, about one mile eastward of the western edge of the Middle bank, with Riley point bearing S. by E. ^ E. (S. 16° E.), distant 15^ miles, and exhibits a fixed white light, which should be seen from a distance of 10 miles in clear weather. Soundings. — From Tipara reef to Middle bank the soundings are mostly regular, over a sand and coral bottom. Between Middle bank and the shoal water extending from the west coast, southward of Plank point, the channel is 8| miles wide, with 6 to 15 fathoms, coral. Between the soath part of Middle bank and the shoal water bordering the east coast about Tickera bay there is a space 5 miles wide, with 6 to 11 fathoms. A shoal spit extends S.W. 15 miles from the sand-flat which fronts Wood's point ; the extremity of this spit, on which there are 4| fathoms, lies 7 miles off shore, and 3 miles east of Middle bank. There are 3 J and 3| fathoms on the middle of the spit, with 4 to 4| fathoms towards its south-west extreme, and 4 to 'Ms fathoms towards the sand-flat of Wood's point. A. patch with 4| fathoms on it, lies 2 miles south of the south-west extreme of the spit, in the track of vessels going to Port Broughton. There is a channel 2 miles wide, with 7 to 10 fathoms, coral, between Middle bank and the spit ; and between the spit and the shoal water fronting the eastern sJiore there is a space 4 miles wide leading to Port Broughton, with 4| to 8 fathoms ; but there appears to be no certain passage out of it to the northward, except across the inner part of the spit, where there may be not more than 3J fathoms. From Middle bank to a line between Jarrold point and mount Young, a distance of 22 miles, Spencer gulf appears free from any shoal under 4 fathoms, over a width of 14 miles, with general depths of 6 to 14 fathoms, sand and coral. Eastern shoal is a sand-bank 7 miles long, N.E. by N. and S.W. by S., and one mile broad ; a patch half a mile in extent on its >S'r charts. No. 403 and No. 2.3S0ft. Chap. IV.] eJastebn shoal.— germein bay. 249 north-east end, which dries at low water, bearing from Lowly point S. by E. ^ E., 5 miles, and from Hummock hill E. by S., distant 11 miles. At 1^ miles south-west of the patch there are 9 feet water, the depth gradually increasing to 3 fathoms on the south-west end of the shoal. There is a clear channel 3 miles wide, with 6 to 11 fathoms, ooze and fine dark sand and shells, between Eastern shoal and Fairway bank. See page 215. Buoy. — A spherical buoy, painted red and white in horizontal stripes, and surmounted by a red globe^ is placed on the south end of Eastern shoal, in 22 feet at low water springs, with mount Young bearing W. by N. \ ,N. (N. 73° W.) distant about 12| miles, and Lowly point N. by E. (N. 12" E.). There is a less depth than 5 fathoms for one mile south of this buoy. A red pile beacon with a round head marks the north end of the shoal, it is in 10 feet, and about 4 cables W.X.W. from the north end of the patch which dries. GERMEIN BAY, — From the mangrove point 3^ miles N.N.E. of Jarrold point, the entrance of Germein bay extends north 9 J miles to Ward spit, and is 10 miles deep ; but it is mostly occupied by sand-banks and shoal water. This bay is frequented by vessels going to Port Pirie. Large vessels which come here in the season to load wool, wheat, cl'C, lie about 2^ miles W.N.W. of mount Ferguson, or at the anchorage southward of Ward point. From the mangrove point at the southern entrance of Germein bay its south-eastern shore, consisting of thick mangroves, with partially flooded land behind, trends N.E. \ E. 9^ miles to the entrance of Port Pirie. This shore is bordered by sand and mud flats, which dry out one mile at low water springs, and is fronted by a shoal with 3 to 12 feet water on it, extending 3 to 4^ miles from the shore, and occupying nearly the southern half of the bay. N.W. by N. 3^ miles from the mangrove point at the entrance is a 3-f eet patch, from which a spit extends 1\ miles to the south-west, forming between it and the shore a bight with 4 fathoms water in it. The outer edge of the shoal fronting the southern shore of Germein bay, after extending N.E. 1 miles from the spit just noticed, curves round eastward and north-eastward, forming a bight 4^ miles broad See chart, No. 403. 250 SPENCER GULF. ' [Chap. IV. and li miles deep, in the northern edge of the shoal ; and then trends E. by S. 4 miles to within 2 miles of the entrance of Port Pirie. Between the north-western edge of this shoal and Eastern shoal is the southern channel Jnto Germein bay ; it is 1^ miles wide, with a depth of 4 to 12 fathoms. PORT PIRIE, in the south-east bight of Germein bay, is a creek resorted to by vessels in the wool season ; its entrance may be recognised by mount Ferguson, which is about 2 miles to the east- ward of the entrance. From mount Ferguson the mangrove coast curves to the southward and forms a bight 2 miles across, the creek between the mount and the south-west entrance point being nearly one mile wide, with a depth of 14 feet in the centre ; but the sand and mud-banks on either side close each other to the southward, leaving a narrow channel between the banks eastward of the south- west entrance point. The channel has been straightened and deepened, and from seaward to Port Pirie has a depth of not less than 12f feet at low water ; it is to be further deepened to 15 feet at low water. The width is not less than 150 feet. A swinging berth, 400 feet wide, has been made opposite the Government wharf. Vessels up to 2,747 tons have taken advantage of the improvements by partially loading at the wharves. Port Pirie, about 30 miles north of Port Broughton, is rapidly coming forward as an important place ; a municipality has been formed at the south bend of the creek with well laid out streets, and substantial wharves having nearly half a mile of frontage ;* railways connect it with the wheat-producing areas, Port Augusta and Adelaide, and other parts of the colony. There is also a telegraph station. The population in 1891 was 4,006 persons. The town is built in a swamp, the land about being flooded at spring tides. In 1894, vessels of a tonnage of 244,215 entered and cleared at Port Pirie. The exports are, wheat, flour, silver and lead, and the imports, coal, iron and mining stores. Supplies. — Port Pirie is supplied with water obtained from springs ; there is a storage reservoir at Nelshaby, which has a capacity of 23,123,000 gallons ; it is laid on at several of the jetties. Almost any kind of ship's stores can be purchased. * Port Pirie affords special advantages as the most direct outlet for the mineral country at the Barrier ranges and the western part of New South Wales, owing to the railway breaking gauge at Petersburg for Port Adelaide, whilst it is continuous to Port Pirie. Sec chart, No. 408. Chap. IV.] PORT PIRIE. 251 Pilots. — The boundary of the cruising station and limit of comijulsory sea pilotage for Port Pirie, Port Germein and Port Augusta, is on a line drawn from Jarrold point to Hummock hill. Usually there is at least one boat at the station, outside the boundary line. The employment of a harbour pilot in these ports is not compulsory. It should be ascertained that there is sufficient accommodation at the wharves before a vessel is taken into Port Pirie. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, at the entrance of the channel leading to Port Pirie, at h. 45 a.m., and 8 h. 30 p.m. ; springs rise 9^ feet, but heavy south-west gales cause a rise of 12 feet. At Port Pirie, at 7 h. 15 m., springs rise 8 to 12 feet. A tide gauge has been fixed on the outer (No. 10) light beacon, at the entrance of the channel leading to Port Pirie. Tide gauges have also been fixed on the Cockle spit beacon, and on the outer end of Port Germein jetty. These gauges, which can usually be read at a distance of one to 1^ miles, show the least depth of water in the channel between No. 10 beacon and the Port Pirie wharves. MOUNT FERGUSON, on the north-eastern entrance point of Port Pirie creek, is a round grassy hill, 133 feet high, and shows out well against the dark scrub covering the slopes of Flinders range near mount Bluff, which is 2,301 feet high, and bears E. | N., distant 6 miles from mount Ferguson. Mount Ferguson is insulated at high water, the land about it being a mangrove swamp. A sand-flat with a black beacon off its western end, extends 2 miles north-west from the mount, and then curves in to its south-west side. From about three-quarters of a mile north-east of mount Ferguson the north-eastern shore of Germein bay forms a sandy beach curving north-westward about 6 miles to Ward point ; it is bordered by a sand-flat extending about three-quarters of a mile from the beach, with 2| and 2 fathoms at 2 to 1^ miles from the shore. A black buoy is placed on the 3-fathoms edge of a spit about 2 miles off shore nearly midway between mount Ferguson and Ward point, and S. J E . distant IJ miles from the jetty end. The country behind this beach is thickly wooded with gum scrub and pines, and is generally low for 3 miles inland, when it rises gradually to the Flinders range, which is from 5 to 7 miles distant. See plan, Port Pirie, on No. 403, scale w = 2'4 inches. 252 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. The township of Port Germein, on the north side of the bay, and 8 miles eastward from the entrance, had a population of 287 in 1891. The jetty is 5,459 feet long, with two berths 300 feet long and 20 feet depth at low w^ater, and one berth 300 feet long and IG feet depth. To accommodate vessels using these berths two small cask buoys have been placed, each buoy attached to a 30-fathoms length of 1| inch chain for use as head moorings ; and a black iron warping buoy, connected with a screw mooring, 350 feet south from the jetty end. There is daily coach communication with Port Pirie. Water. — Port Germein is supplied with water from works at Baroota creek springs. The storage reservoir contains 1,500,000 gallons. LIGHT. — A fixed light is exhibited from the end of the jetty in Germein bay, which is visible in clear weather from a distance of 10 miles. The light shows white from N. 80° E. (south of Ward spit) to N. ^^'^ E. (north, of the dry part of Cockle spit) ; red from N. ij^"" E. to N. 12° E. (over Cockle spit) ; and white from N. 12° E. (east of Cockle spit) to N. 10° W. The lighthouse is an iron tower, painted white. Sig*nal station. — There is a signal station at Port Germein and communication can be made by the commercial code. It is connected by telegraph. WARD POINT, which forms the east, as Lowly point does the west side of the upper part of Spencer gulf, is a round mangrove point bearing E. J S., distant 9 miles from Lowly point. Ward Spit, which forms the north side of Germein bay, extends W. by S. 6 miles from Ward point, and is dry at low water springs. Its average breadth is about 1^ miles ; but it is much less near the shore, where the water forces a passage over the spit at half -tide. A shoal, with from 6 to 9 feet water on it, extends 1^ miles south- westward from the extremity of Ward spit, and thence continues along the south side of the spit to Ward point, with a breadth of about half a mile, and 3 to 12 feet water on it. The north edge of Ward spit is also bordered by a shoal, with 7 to 15 feet water on it, extending a quarter of a mile to half a mile from the edge of the spit, and forming a bight at about 1^ m.iles north-west of Ward point. Set' chart, No. 103. Chap. lY.] GERMEIX BAY. 253 The Northern entrance of Germein bay, between the north- east end of Eastern shoal and the shoal water projecting south-west from Ward spit, is about 2 miles wide, with 4 fathoms ; the depth within increasing to 8 or 9 fathoms. The deepest water in the bay is along the south side of Ward spit, about one mile from it. Cockle spit, a sandy-bank, uncovered at low water springs, lies S.S.W. I W. 3 miles from Ward point, and W.N.W. 5 miles from mount Ferguson. It is about 1^ miles long, E.N.E. and W.S.W., and half a mile broad, with a narrow shoal enclosing it, and extending more than a mile from its western end. South of this bank the water in Germein bay is nearly all shallow, the depth rarely exceeding 2| fathoms. There is a shoal between Cockle spit and the north-east part of Eastern shoal, with as little as 7 feet water on it ; it is about 2 miles long, E.N.E. and W.S.W., with 3J to 5 fathoms about it. There are also two small shoal patches between Cockle spit and the eastern shore, one with 2| fathoms water on it, lying N.W. by W. 3 miles from mount i'erguson, and the other, with 3 fathoms on it, South 1^ miles from Ward point. Beacons and buoys. — On the north side of the channel a black cylindrical buoy with a staff and ball is placed on the south-west end of Ward spit in 12 feet water, with Lowly point N.W. 3^ miles ; a black pile beacon, with a square head, a quarter of a mile further east in 10 feet water ; a black buoy, with a staff and ball, lies E. ^ N., 2J miles from this beacon, in 3 fathoms water on the south edge of Ward spit ; and 2 J miles E. by N. J N. from this buoy is a similar buoy in 3 fathoms water on the south-east edge of the spit. The south side of the channel is marked by a red pile beacon, sur- mounted by a ball, on the north end of Eastern shoal ; a red cheese- shaped buoy with a cylindrical framework and ball lies E. by N. J N. 6 miles from Eastern shoal beacon, in 4 fathoms water, on the north- west edge of Cockle spit ; one mile E. by N. from this buoy is a red pile beacon with a ball on top, on the north side of Cockle spit ; a red buoy with framework and ball on top is moored in 3 fathoms water on the north edge of Cockle spit, three-quarters of a mile E. by S. from the beacon. See chart, No. 403. 254 8PENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. Another cheese-shaped red buoy, surmounted by a staff and ball, lies E. by S., one mile from the buoy just mentioned, in 15 feet at low water. A red and black chequered buoy, with staff and ball, is placed on the 7 feet shoal with the Eastern shoal beacon W. ^ N. distant 3J miles ; and a black buoy, with staff and ball, is placed on the south edge of the Cockle spit, in 13 feet at low water springs, with Cockle spit beacon N. | E., Eastern shoal beacon W. J S. These buoys indicate the channel into Port Pirie, south of Cockle spit. DIRECTIONS. — In entering Germein bay keep the lead going and a good look-out ahead, as after a few days' fine weather, the water becomes clear and the shoals can be seen. But during and after bad weather, the mud and sand are disturbed from the bottom, and the deepest water is generally the most discoloured. In entering between Eastern shoal and Ward spit, the northern detached hill north-west of False bay, just open of Black point bearing N.W. by W. J W. (N. 59° W.), leads in 4 fathoms water, to the southward of the shoal water extending from Ward spit. When Bay hill (a low grassy hummock N.N.W. 7 miles from Lowly point) is well open of the bluff just north of Lowly point, with the point bearing N.W. by N. (N. 34° W), distant 3| miles, steer an E. by N. (N. 79° E.) course which leads up the bay in the deepest water, between Ward spit and Cockle spit, to the anchorage southward of Ward point. Or after passing west of Eastern shoal, steer for Germein jetty light on an E. by N. (N. 79° E.) bearing, which will lead to the anchorage. The black buoys and beacon marking Ward spit must be left to the northward, and the red buoys and beacon marking Cockle spit to the southward. Anchorage, in 3 to 3^ fathoms, may be obtained in Germein bay to the southward of Ward point, with the north end of the long sandy beach bearing North to N.N.E., at about H miles off shore. Large vessels intending to anchor in the outer roadstead should be prepared to do so after passing the south-east black buoy on Ward spit. See chart, No. 403. Chap. IV. 1 GERMEIN BAY. V f.. == .J 255 Due allowance must be made for the tidal streams, as the stream sets N.E. during the rising tide and S.W. across the entrance during the falling tide, about 1 \ knots, at springs. The chart is an excellent guide. Ballast. — All vessels bound to Port Pirie or Port Augusta, and requiring to discharge ballast must do so in False bay inside a line drawn between Lowly point and Hummock hill. A white buoy with staff and ball lies with Lowly point bearing E. by N. I N. distant .5i^o miles, to mark the ballast ground. Going" out. — In going out of Germein bay a W. by S. course, or a direct course for mount Young, will lead into Spencer gulf. For Porfc Pirie andioragre, proceed into Germein bay as above directed, pass about a quarter of a mile south of the black buoy on the spit off the jetty, and then steer for No. 10 light beacon ; or bring the northern detached hill north-west of False bay on with Black point bearing N.W. by W. \ W. (N. 59° W.), or Bay hill just open of the bluff land north of Lowly point, bearing N.N.W. \ W. (N. 25° W.), Avhich will lead east of the north- east end of Eastern shoal. Keep these marks on till mount Ferguson comes on with mount Bluff (the summit of the southern part of Flinders range) bearing E. \ N. (N. 84° E.), then steer in, with these latter marks on, or as directed at page 25G. As the outer light beacon is approached, edge a little more to the northward. There i% good anchorage, in 11 to 14 feet, with the wool- sheds just showing over the east side of the creek, and mount Ferguson N.E. by N. (N. 34° E.). Southern entrance. — There is a channel 1^ miles wide, with 4 to 12 fathoms, between the Eastern shoal and the shoals eastward of it, and there is nothing to prevent its being used by steam- vessels or coasters, and others well acquainted with the locality, bound to Port Pirie from the southward. Run up the gulf until Hummock hill is in line with the northern detached hill north-west of False bay, bearing N.W. by N. (N. 34° W.), and enter the channel about 5^ miles W.N.W. of Jarrold point. Then steer N.E. by N. (N. 34° E.) in mid-channel, leaving the spherical buoy at the S.W. end of Eastern shoal nearly a mile to the westward. See chart, No. 403. 256 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. When mount Ferguson is in line with mount Bluff bearing K. 1 N. (N. 84° E.), steer E. by N. J N. (N. 73° W.). till the chequered buoy on the 7-feet shoal bears N.N.W. (N. 22° W.) distant three- quarters of a mile, then steer N.E. by E. (N^. 56° E.), and when the south Cockle spit buoy bears E. | N. (N. 82° E.) steer E. | N. (N. 87° E.), passing 1^ cables south of the south Cockle spit buoy and on to the anchorage. The least water in this track is ID feet at low water. If drawing less than 10 feet, when mount Ferguson bears E. ^ N. (N. 84° E.), in line with mount Bluff, an E. by N. (N. 79° E.) course will lead to the anchorage, passing about one mile to the southward of the 7-feet and south Cockle spit buoys, and in 12 feet at low water. The red light at the outer, or No. 10, beacon is an excellent guide at night. The services of a pilot should be obtained if bound to Port Pirie. Port Pirie. — Lights. — Ten pile beacons, painted red and carrying lights, mark the channel from off mount Ferguson to the wharves at Port Pirie. The outer, or No. 10, light is fixed red, and is visible round the horizon, the other lights are fixed white, except No. 1 which is fixed red, and are only visible from the directions of and towards the channel. These beacons are 18 feet in height, and the lights are visible from a distance of 4 miles. Beacons and buoys. — The channel is marked by light beacons and buoys painted red, to be left on the starboard hand entering. A black perch buoy is moored on the north side of the channel, opposite the outer light beacon, to denote the *vidth of the channel, which is further marked by other black buoys, to be left on the port hand entering. Directions. — In going to Port Pirie pass between the outer red beacon and the black buoy, then leave the red beacons and buoys on the starboard hand at the distance of about 90 feet ; at night, leave the red light on the outer beacon, the white lights on the other beacons and the red light on No. 1 beacon on the starboard hand at the same distance. GENERAL DIRECTIONS for SPENCER GULF,— Large vessels bound for Spencer gulf from the westward, are advised to keep South of Neptune isles ; Wedge isle may be passed on either side, taking care to clear the Foul ground about 3^ miles south-east See chart, No. 403. Chap. IV.] GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 257 of it, and the other dangers near the Gambler group. From midway between West cape and Wedge isle, a N. by E. ^ E. course for about 100 miles leads nearly midway between Middle bank and the western shore, passing 7 miles west of Webb rock and Tipara reef. From mid-channel on the west side of Middle bank, which is marked by a light- vessel, to Lowly point, the fairway course is N.N.E., in 6 to 12 fathoms, 7 miles off the western shore below Plank point ; but this course passes not far from two 4-fathoms patches, and it is usual to keep more over towards the western shore ; when in the vicinity of Western shoal it will be cleared to the east- ward, in 3 fathoms, by keeping Hummock hill west of North ; the black beacon on an outlying patch of the shoal should be left to the westward. The spherical buoy on the south end of Eastern shoal is a good guide for the channels on either side of that shoal. When in sight of Lowly point, mount Brown kept over the point, bearing N. by E. 4 E. (N. 17° E.), leads up the gulf in 10 and 8 fathoms between Eastern shoal and Fairway bank. From Wallaroo bay for Port Augusta pass on either side of Middle bank, but the west side is to be preferred. For Tipara and Wallaroo bays steer N. by E. i E. only so far as to arrive at about 8 miles w^estward of cape Elizabeth, and then proceed as directed at page 210. In entering: Spencer gulf from Investigator strait, large vessels pass south of Althorpe isles, and having rounded the south isle, do not bring it south of E.S.E. until the islets about Pondalowie bay open west of West cape, or until the cape bears N. by E., which leads one mile outside of S.W. rock and Emmes reef, in 19 fathoms. West cape bearing N.N.E. ^ E. leads outside the position of the breakers reported one mile W. by N. from Emmes reef. Small vessels generally pass between the north Althorpe isle and cape Spencer ; or from midway between the south and east isles, a N.W. course leads three-quarters of a mile north of Emmes reef, and nearly one mile off the reefs of Reef head. At night, bring cape Borda light to bear South before hauling into Spencer gulf, and then run up North, between Wedge isle and Yorke peninsula. TIDAL STREAMS. — The stream divides off cape Spencer See charts. Nos. 2,3S9« and h. SO 11712 R 258 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. during the rising tide, one branch setting along shore, E.N.E., and the other to the north-westward and northward. DIRECTIONS for the WEST SHORE.— From April to September, if bound up fepencer gulf to Port Augusta, and when near Althorpe isles (or between them and Thistle island), there is a north- easterly or northerly wind with a falling barometer, it will eventually prove of great advantage to get over on the west side of the gulf, as the wind sooner or later will shift to N.W., and a vessel near the west shore has then a fair wind to Shoalwater point. No one, however, unacquainted with the rocks and islets north of Thistle island should attempt to do so until north of Sir Joseph Banks group. From port Lincoln to Lowly point.— From near Boston point to midway between Bolingbroke point and Kirkby island the course is N.E. by E. 12 miles ; with the north-going stream a more easterly course is necessary to avoid being set on to the rocky ground south of Bolingbroke point. Thence N.N.E. 5 miles until Winceby island bears East, and then a course of N.E. | E. for 75 miles, leads midway between Shoalwater point and Tickera bay. This course passes 14 miles north-west of the Tipara reef lighthouse. The position of the vessel should be ascertained by bearings of Tipara reef light and a course shaped up the fairway of the gulf to the westward of the Middle bank ; with the light bearing S.S.E. distant 15 miles, the course is N.N.E., thence proceed as previously directed. Caution. — If between Sir Joseph Banks group and Shoalwater point during the north-going stream, a vessel will be set considerably to the northward of her course, and may get too close to the banks between Franklin harbour and Shoalwater point. Frequent sounding is the best guide to rely on, both by day and night, and while off that part of the coast the water should not be shoaled to less than 8 fathoms, or a southerly course should be taken immediately it does so. From October to April, after very hot days, the Tipara light may be so much elevated by mirage, ihat it being in sight cannot ensure a vessel being in safety, although in ordinary weather it would not be visible if passing too near Shoalwater point. Sec charts, Nos. 2,389« and h. Chap. IV.] PORT AUGUSTA, APPROACH. 259 With a strong wind blowing up or down Spencer gulf, the water always gets much smoother at the edge of the banks, and in working either way the lead is the best guide for tacking. Winds on the west shore. — From May to December the winds are the same as those described at pages 243 and 278 for the east shore and Port Augusta. From January to April hot winds are not nearly so prevalent as in those places, seldom lasting 12 hours, and always succeeded by the cool S.S.E. wind, which, although occasionally interrupted by a moderate westerly gale, blows with tolerable regularity, being fresh in the afternoon, dying away before midnight, and coming up again at 8 or 9 o'clock the next morning. Tug's can be procured at Port Adelaide. The steam vessel which trades to Port Augusta frequently tows vessels up or down, through the estuary on her trips backwards and forwards. NORTHERN PART OF SPENCER GULF, OR ESTUARY OF PORT AUGUSTA. This estuary extends from its entrance, between Lowly point and Ward point, nearly N. by W. 32 miles to Port Augusta, and thence about 4 miles farther to the head of the gulf, gradually contracting from 8 miles in width, at the entrance, to a quarter of a mile above Port Augusta. Flinders range, on the east side of the estuary, has some remarkable peaks ; mount Remarkable, N.E. | E. 22 miles from Lowly point, being 3,130 feet, and mount Brown, N.N.W. J W. 19 miles from mount Remarkable, being 3,174 feet high. Caution. — Vessels running for Lowly point from the south-west, have sometimes mistaken False bay for the entrance of the estuary, which does not show till close to Lowly point ; by day mount Brown can almost always be seen, and when it bears N. by E. ^ E. Lowly point is directly in line with it ; by night the light on Lowly point is a sufficient guide. See charts, Nos. 2,389« and &, SO 11712 R 2 260 SPENCER auLF. [Chap. IV. The WESTERN SHORE.— LOWLY POINT is a long low projection, with a high sandy beach on its southern side, and gradually rising land at about half a mile to the westward. Although Lowly point is steep-to, a large vessel should give it a berth of not less than half a mile, to avoid Lowly point shoal, to the northward. LIGHT. — A lighthouse (a round tower 54 feet high), two cottages, and a store are on Lowly point, all painted white. The lighthouse exhibits at an elevation of 57 feet above high water, a flashing white light, showing a flash every ten seconds, which is visible in clear weather from a distance of 10 miles. Signal station. — There is a signal station at this lighthouse, which is connected with the telegraph system, and communication can be made by the commercial code. The storm signal is a blue swallow-tailed flag under a red ball. Lowly point shoal, N.N.E. three-quarters of a mile from Lowly point, is a bank of hard sand and rock, 400 yards long, north and south, and 200 yards broad, the least depth on it being 2^ fathoms. Tide. — It is high water, full and change, at Lowly point at 7 h. m. ; springs rise G to 8 feet. BACKY BAY. — From Lowly point a nearly straight coast extends N.N.W. 5| miles to the head of the bay ; it is formed of low whitish cliffs and stony beaches, with mangroves after the first 3 miles. Between one and 4 miles from Lowly point the coast rises to a ridge of hills, 328 feet high. From the head of the bay, behind which is a salt swamp, the coast trends E. ^ S. 2 miles to Backy point. The coast from Lowly point to within one mile of the head of Backy bay may be approached to a quarter of a mile in 9 to 3J fathoms ; but a hard sand-flat, covered at high water, extends half a mile from the head of the bay, with shoal water a quarter of a mile farther out. BACKY POINT is a bold, black rocky point, 178 feet high, wdiich may be approached to one cable in 8 fathoms. From Backy point a bold, broken, rocky coast trends N. by E. \ E. IJ miles to Grag point. DOUGLAS POINT, N. | E. 2\ miles from Crag point, is rocky, with a low black cliff, the intermediate coast forming two bays, with Hce charts, Xo. 2,380& and 1^o. 401. approach to Port Augusta, scale m = I'O inch. Chap. IV.] LOWLY POINT. — DOUGLAS BAXK. 261 hard sand-flats which, at low water, dry out to the line of points, and are fronted by shoal water, of which the 3-fathoms edge extends half a mile from the sand-flats. Tlie COAST from Douglas point takes a general N. ^ W. direction 6^ miles to Two Hummock point, and from 2J miles north of Douglas point to half a mile from Two Hummock point it consists of thick mangroves, with low land behind, and is bordered nearly the whole distance by a hard sand-flat covered at half-tide, extending from a quarter to half a mile from the shore. The sand-flat is fronted by a narrow border of shoal water from Douglas point to Two Hummock spit, nearly one mile south-east of the southern part of Two Hum- mock point. Dougrlas hills are detached grassy ranges rising behind the coast between Crag and Two Hummock points, some of them being separated by rocky ravines. One of these hills, north-west 2 miles from Douglas point, has a cairn of stones 653 feet above high water. About 2,500 sheep were pastured on these hills in 1862, the shep- herd's stone hut and well being situated two-thirds of a mile from the shore, one mile north of Douglas point. The well, which supplies about 240 gallons of very brackish water daily, is 120 feet deep, and is conspicuous from having a heap of white limestone round it, thrown up during the excavation. Douglas bank, the centre of which lies N. by E. 2§ miles from Douglas point, is about half a mile long, north and south, and 200 yards broad, with a depth of 10 feet on it at low water ; the shallowest water being on the west side of the bank, whence it deepens suddenly to 6 and 8 fathoms ; whilst on the east side and off the south end of the bank the water gradually deepens to 6 fathoms at half a mile off. There is a clear channel nearly three-quarters of a mile wide with 5J to 10 fathoms west of Douglas bank ; and on its east side there is a clear channel one mile wide, with 8 to 4 fathoms. Buoy. — There is a chequered red and black perch-buoy with ball near the south end of the bank, with Douglas point bearing S, by W., distant 2^ miles. Clearing marks. — Mount Gullet, a wooded hill 209 feet high, on See chart, No. 401. 262 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. the eastern shore, N.E. by E. J E. 6 miles from Douglas point, bear- ing E. by N. (N. 79° E.), clears the south end of Douglas bank, in 5 fathoms, and the same hill bearing E. | S. (S. 84° E.) clears the north end of the bank in 6 fathoms. Crag point in line with Douglas point, bearing S. j W. (S. 8° W.), just clears the west side of the bank in 7 fathoms ; and Crag point in line with Backy point, bearing S. by W. ^ W. (S. 17° W.), or the north part of Two Hummock point in line with the north end of Bluff range, bearing N.N.W. | W. (N. 25° W.), leads half a mile to the eastward of it. Two Hummock point is a low broad projection with alternate rock and sandy beach. There are two hummocks covered with scrub ; one on the point, and the other nearly three-quarters of a mile to the north-west ; North hummock, the higher hill, is 94 feet above high water. There is a salt swamp extending from between these towards a third, or Inshore hummock, which bears W.S.W., distant IJ miles from South hummock. Two Hummock spit. — From Two Hummock point the sand- flat dries out nearly half a mile, beyond which, Two Hummock spit, with 9 to 12 feet water on it, extends nearly one mile south-east from the south part of the point. The edge of the spit is marked by a black buoy. A knoll. — ^A small knoll, with 3^ fathoms on it, lies N.E. by E. ^ E two-thirds of a mile from the north part of Two Hummock point. THE EASTERN SHORE from Ward point trends N. by W. ^ W. 9J miles to a small salt creek, nearly half a mile south-eastward of which is mount Mambray. For nearly 3 miles from Ward point there are thick mangroves, between which and the creek the coast consists of a low sandy beach, with a level country, covered with thick gum scrub behind it. From the salt creek, the low coast extends nearly in a straight direction N. by W. 5^ miles to a point of thick mangroves on the south side of Yatala harbour. For about one mile north of the creek there is thick scrub, whence a salt swamp, intersected by several creeks, extends to the south side of Yatala harbour. The coast from Ward point to Yatala harbour is bordered by a hard sand-flat, generally from three-quarters to one mile broad, which is covered at high water, and fronted by shoal water extending from Sec chart, No. 401. Chap. IV.] WARD POINT.— YATALA HARBOUR. 263 one-third to three-quarters of a mile from the edge of the flat. W. I N. 2| miles from mount Gullet the sand-flat stretches out to a spit, on the noi'th side of which a deep narrow creek, barred at its entrance, trends about IJ miles north-eastward, into the flat. From the entrance of this creek the edge of the sand-flat curves in a N.W. I N. direction If miles, and then trends nearly N. by E. IJ miles to a spit, forming the south side of the entrance of Yatala harbour. To the north-west of the creek the shoal water which borders the sand-flat projects one mile south-westward, in the direction of Douglas bank ; but between this projection and the entrance of the harbour, the shoal water does not extend beyond a quarter of a mile from the edo^e of the sand-flat. Buoy. — A perch buoy with staff and ball, painted red, is placed at the end of this projection in 17 feet at low water, with mount Grainger bearing N.N.E. J E., and mount Gullet E. by S. Mount Mambray is covered with thick scrub, rising to the height of 111 feet, and bears N. by W. ^ W. nearly 9 miles from Ward point, and East nearly 6 miles from Douglas point. Mount Gullet, N. | W. 3 miles from mount Mambray, is broad at the base, with a round flattish top, 209 feet high, and thickly covered with scrub. This and mount Mambray are the only conspicuous objects near the coast between Ward point and Yatala harbour. YATALA HARBOUR.— From the point of thick mangroves on the south side of the harbour the mangrove shore trends east half a mile to Dowsett creek, thence north-east one mile, and south-east about the same distance to the head of Yatala harbour, where there is a mangrove swamp. This bight is about two-thirds of a mile wide and is so filled by a flat of sand, mud, and weeds, as only to leave a narrow channel leading into it, and which is barred at the entrance. From the north side of the entrance of this bight the coast, which is backed by thick scrub, trends N.W. by W. 1| miles to a small jetty and hut, one-third of a mile north of which is mount Grainger, a round black-looking hill covered with bushes, which, from its rising to the height of 257 feet from low flat land, is^a good mark for the entrance of Yatala harbour. The coast from the jetty turns north- westward round the foot of the mount to a small salt creek about one 5e« chart, No. 401. 264 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. mile from the jetty. From the creek the coast extends W.N.W. 2| miles to Red cliff point, midway between which and the creek, Red cliff rises to the height of 60 feet, the land behind it being swampy. The coast from mount Grainger to Red cliff point is fronted by a sand- flat, covered at high water, extending off from two-thirds of a mile to one mile. W. by S. ^ S. 2 miles from the mount, an oyster bank, awash at low w^ter springs, projects half a mile to the southward, and forms the north side of the entrance to Yatala harbour. Shoal water extends from three-quarters of a mile south of the oyster bank, to about one-third of a mile from the edge of the flat abreast of Red cliff point. The anchorage, or navigable portion of Yatala harbour, is now a mere basin of shallow water in the sand and mud-flats, which extend from half a mile to nearly 2 miles from the land, the nearest approach to the shore being to the south-west of the jetty under mount Grainger ; and even here the sand and mud dry out more than half a mile, the tide seldom reaching to the end of the jetty. The entrance, which is three-quarters of a mile wide, lies between the north end of the southern sand-flat and the oyster bank. There are 4 to 3 fathoms water close to the south side of the entrance, between which and the oyster bank the depth decreases from 9 to 1^ feet. The basin within the entrance is about 2 miles across, with 6 to 15 feet water, and having the before-mentioned narrow deep channel leading eastward through the mud-flat to the head of the harbour ; but the channel, as before stated, is barred at the entrance. By comparing the soundings taken in former surveys with those obtained in 1863, Yatala harbour appears to be fast filling up. DIRECTIONS. — Small vessels entering Yatala harbour should bring the Inshore Hummock in line with the south part of Two Hummock point, bearing W. J S., till mount Grainger bears N.E., and then steer for it. To get into a position off the jetty, a vessel must pass over a 6-feet bank, about half a mile within the entrance. There is a strong tide-ripple off the entrance, with southerly winds. Middle bank, the south-eastern end of which lies N.N.E. ^ E. 1 J miles from the north part of Two Hummock point, is a little more than three-quarters of a mile long N.N.W. and S.S.E., with an average breadth of 200 yards, the least water on it being 7 feet. tke chart, Xo. 401. Chap. IV.] MIDDLE BANK.— BLANCHE HARBOUR. 265 There is a clear channel nearly three-quarters of a mile wide on the west side ; and one on the east side half a mile wide having 6 to 10 fathoms. The west and more direct channel is preferred. Buoys. — ^A red perch buoy is on the west side of the bank in a depth of 10 feet at low water. Clearing: marks. — Inshore hummock open north of South hummock, bearing S.W. | W. (S. 53° W.), clears, in 4^ fathoms, the south-east end of Middle bank at the distance of one cable ; or Mangrove point, in line with the north side of a deep ravine in Bluff range, bearing W.N.W. (N. 67° W.), just clears the south end of the bank in 3^ fathoms. Mount Brown, in line with the end of the mangroves on the north side of Red cliff point, bearing N.E. by N. (N. 34° E.), clears in 4 fathoms the north-western end of Middle bank at the distance of a cable. WESTERN SHORE.— From Two Hummock point the low mangrove coast trends north-west nearly 3 miles to Mangrove point, and is bordered by a hard sand-flat extending from one-third of a mile off Two Hummock point, nearly N.W. by N. 4 miles, to the southern entrance of Blanche harbour. This entrance, which is one quarter of a mile wide, with 4^ to 8 fathoms water, is bounded to the northward by the West sands ; from which a spit, marked by a black pile beacon with a diamond shaped head, projects a quarter of a mile to the eastward. West sands, which uncover at low water springs, form a bank IJ miles long, N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., and half a mile to one quarter of a mile broad. Its north-eastern side may be passed at the distance of a quarter of a mile in 7 fathoms. BLANCHE HARBOUR.— From Mangrove point the low mangrove shore of Blanche harbour trends west IJ miles, and then turns north to the west side of the northern entrance, nearly three- quarters of a mile west of the north-west end of the West sands. There is an extensive salt swamp behind the southern shore of the harbour. The shores are fronted by flats extending half a mile to a quarter of a mile from the mangroves, leaving a space about three-quarters of a mile across, with one to 2^ fathoms water. Blanche harbour See chart, No. 401. 266 SPENCER GULP. [Chap. IV. has two entrances; the southern entrance one-quarter of a mile wide, between the West sands and the fiat extending one mile from Mangrove point ; and the northern entrance, which has a channel carrying 6 to 4 fathoms nearly one mile in towards the harbour, between West sands and the land. The COAST from the northern entrance of Blanche harbour trends N. ^ E. 4J miles to Commissariat point, and mostly consists of rough stony beach, fringed with mangroves and fronted by a sand-flat, which at low water dries out nearly a quarter of a mile. The land behind this coast rises to the Bluff range, which at 1^ miles south of Commissariat point is only one mile inside it. Bluff rangre. — The Bluff is the eastern and highest part of a long flat-topped range, rising near Lowly point and extending about N.N.W. 12 miles and then N. by E. nearly the same distance to the Bluff, on which a cairn of stones has been erected 948 feet above high water ; the cairn is not easily distinguished from the scattered bushes on the summit, which is a few hundred feet broad, with a gradual slope to the westward. From the Bluff the range extends N.N.W. 4^ miles, when it turns to the westward ; a detached ridge at the angle, named the Sisters, when seen from the south-east, appears as two peaks, the south-eastern being 737 feet high. Commissariat point lies N.E. ^ N. 1| miles from the Bluff, and is so slight a projection of the mangrove coast as only to be distinguished when well north or south of it. The sand dries out 100 yards from the mangroves, and a 2-fathoms bank extends 400 yards beyond the sand-flat. Beacon. — A black pile beacon with a diamond-shaped head is near the edge of the shoal off the point. Buoy. — A black perch buoy with a staff and diamond shaped head is moored on a sand-spit between the above beacon, and the one to the northward. Vessels should keep well in mid-channel. EASTERN SHORE.— From Red cliff point a margin of thick mangroves curves round N.E. by N. and N.N.W. 3J miles, and thence a low shore, with swampy land behind it, trends N.W. ^ W. about the same distance to Paterson point. ' See chart, No. 401. Chap. IV.] COMMISSARIAT POINT.— FLINDERS CHANNEL. 267 Paterson point is low, with a sandj- beach and a large clump of mangroves immediately north of it. Sand and mud-flats intersected by several navigable inlets, extend from this nearly across to the western shore at Commissariat point, to which side the gulf channel is confined. FLINDERS CHANNEL trends nearly N.W. i N. 3| miles from Middle bank to the north end of West sands, and is from IJ miles wide at its lower end, to little more than half a mile wide at its upper, with 5 to 9 fathoms water. Sand and mud flats.— At S.W. by W. and W.S.W. IJ miles from Red Cliff point there are two small 4 and 4^ feet patches, from which a narrow intricate channel, carrying 1| to 4^ fathoms water, penetrates above 2 miles north-east and north into the sand and mud-flat, and terminates in a basin about half a mile across, with IJ to 2i fathoms water. At three-quarters of a mile north-westward of this inlet is a small 4J feet patch at the entrance of a narrow channel, carrying 2^ to 4^ fathoms, and leading nearly north 2 miles from Flinders channel into a sheet of water 2^ miles long, north-west and south-east, and 1^ miles wide, with 1^ to 5 fathoms water ; it approaches nearest to the shore 1| miles south-east of Paterson poiut, where the flat extends off half a mile. East sands. — From the narrow channel just noticed the south- west side of East sands extends N.W. ^ N. 2| miles, and has a narrow border of shoal water, nowhere more than 2 cables broad, except within half a mile of the spit forming the north-west end of the sands, whence the shoal extends about half a mile to the southward, and a quarter of a mile to the westward ; the western edge being marked by a red pile beacon with a round head, bearing N. by W. ^ W., nearly 2 miles from the black beacon on the south-east spit on the West sands. From the north-west spit of East sands the shoal continues nearly a mile to the northward, and has a mass of banks on it, partly uncovered at springs, with a similar red beacon at the north-west point, 7 cables N.N.W. from the red beacon just mentioned. Between a half and one mile northward of the northern red beacon is a detached bank 300 yards broad, and uncovered at springs, having a narrow but deep channel leading round each end from Bluff reach See chart, No. 401. 268 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. into the sheet of water before mentioned. From Paterson point the hard sand-flat which fronts the shore extends south-west 2 miles to a spit forming the south side of the entrance of port Paterson, which is nearly blocked up by a narrow bank, uncovered at springs extending from IJ miles S.S.E. of Commissariat point to one mile west of Paterson point. Buoy. — The south-west end of the spit forming the south side of the entrance to port Paterson is marked by a red perch buoy with a ball. BLUFF REACH is a continuation of the gulf channel from Flinders channel to Commissariat point ; it is bounded to the west- ward by the west shore, and to the eastward by the shoals extending from the north-west spit of East sands, the detached bank to the northward of them, Paterson point spit, and the narrow detached bank in the entrance of port Paterson. The reach averages half a mile in width, and carries 4 to 9 fathoms water. Vessels navigating in this reach should keep well in mid-channel. WESTERN SHORE.— Curlew point.— From Commissariat point the coast trends N. by W. nearly 3 miles to a mass of thick mangroves, of which the south-eastern margin trends N.E. by N. one mile to Curlew point. This coast is bordered by a sand and mud-flat, covered at half tide, nowhere extending beyond a quarter of a m.ile except within one mile of Curlew point, where the flat extends half a mile from the mangroves. Beacon. — A black pile beacon with a diamond-shaped head has been erected on a projecting part of the flat 1^ miles north of Commissariat point. Curlew isle is merely a patch of mangroves on the flat projecting eastward from Curlew point, from which it is separated by a narrow channel dry at low water, and has a sandy knoll at its north end, which only covers at high water springs. The shoal extends one-third of a mile eastward from the centre of the island, and is marked at its outer edge by a black beacon. Tide gauge. — A tide gauge is fixed to the beacon eastward of Curlew isle, showing the least depth of water in the channel thence to Port Augusta. See chart, No. 401. Chap. IV.] CURLEW POINT.— PORT PATERSON. 269 EASTERN SHORE.— Snapper point is north-west of port Paterson, and the west end of a mass of thick mangroves projecting one mile south-westward from the high-water beach. Port Paterson. — The low coast round this port from Paterson point trends irregularly N.N.E. 2| miles, and west nearly the same distance to Snapper point. The gulf channel here narrows to barely three-quarters of a mile in width from mangrove to mangrove and assumes the appearance of a river between the dense mangrove flats on either side. The coast north-east of Paterson point is fringed with mangroves, and 2 miles north-east of the point is intersected by a creek branching into the swamp to the south-eastward. The shores of port Paterson are fronted by sand and mud-flats generally extending about half a mile from the land, and covered at half-tide. From Snapper point a sand-flat, covered at half-tide, extends 2| miles southward, to the entrance of port Paterson, which lies S.E. two-thirds of a mile from Commissariat point. The western bend of this flat is marked by a red pile beacon with a round head, bearing S.S.W., distant three-quarters of a mile from Snapper point j The approach to the anchorage is by a channel 2 miles long, leading N.E. from the entrance, and is open to the gulf channel when the north end of the beach at Paterson point bears E. by N. At about two- thirds of a mile and IJ miles within the entrance the deep water is confined to a width of one cable, with a depth of not less than 4 fathoms. The communication from the outer to the inner basin is by a narrow winding passage, about a quarter of a mile long. It has only IJ fathoms in the entrance at low water springs, but within the channel the soundings in the inner basin increase to 2J fathoms. DIRECTIONS. — There are no marks to lead up the entrance of port Paterson, but the best time to enter is at low water, as the banks then show on either side, and if they are covered the tidal streams fill the channels with eddies, which give the appearance of the whole being blocked up. The anclLOrag'e of port Paterson is a sheet of water three-quarters of a mile across, with a depth of SJ fathoms, mud ; there is an inner basin half a mile in diameter, to the north-eastward, and both are See chart, No. 401. 270 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. enclosed by the sand and mud-flats which occupy the bight between Paterson and Snapper points. The objection to port Paterson arises from the extent of the sand and mud-flats surrounding it on all sides, rendering communication with the shore difficult after half-ebb ; besides which, the adjacent coast is a swamp, with the exception of the sandy beach to the northward of the inner basin, which is nearly half a mile from low- water mark. Snapper reach. — The continuation of the gulf channel from Bluff reach to Curlew isle is 2 cables wide, with 3 fathoms water off Commissariat point ; thence Snapper reach trends N. by W. ^ W. 2 miles, when the channel is again contracted from a quarter of a mile to 1^ cables in width, with 4 fathoms water, between the black and red beacons south-westward of Snapper point. From between these beacons the reach takes a general N.N.E. direction 2 miles, to abreast of Curlew isle. A red buoy with staff and ball is moored on a 14-ieet patch west- ward of Snapper point. To the northward of Snapper point the channel shows at low water springs, as the sands uncover, leaving a width of a quarter of a mile to less than one cable. A red pile beacon with a round head, north of Snapper point, marks the edge of the channel on the west side. It bears S.E. by E. | E. 1| cables from the black beacon east of Curlew isle. From Curlew point a margin of thick mangroves, forming the western shore, curves round west and north 2 miles to Brown point ; and from half a mile east of Curlew isle the eastern shore, also consisting of mangroves, curves north and west 1^ miles to Orchard point, and thence nearly N.N.E. one mile to abreast of Brown point. Both shores are bordered by sand and mud-flats, and the land behind the mangroves is mostly overflowed at springs, the adjacent country at the back of these swamps not exceeding 70 or 80 feet in height. Nearly opposite Brown point there is a creek, on the north side of which a red bank covered with bushes, rises to the height of 77 feet. The gulf channel from the black beacon off Curlew isle nearly follows the direction of the southern and western shores, and shows at low- water springs, when the sands are uncovered ; the passage is Sue cliart, No. 401 (plan, Port Augusta, scale, m = 3 inches). Chap. IV.] PORT AUGUSTA. 271 a quarter of a mile to less than one cable wide, but there are some dangers which do not show at low water. A bank, forming the south side of the narrows north of Curlew point, extends 2 and 3 cables northward and westward from Curlew isle ; it has very.regular depths of 3 to 9 feet on it. Its northern edge, which extends 4:00 yards east and west, is marked by tAvo black buoys. Shoals and sand and mud-flats, having one to 2 fathoms water between them, extend nearly half a mile from the northern shore, their southern edge being defined by four red beacons with round heads ; the first on the south side of a 5-feet patch and bearing N. \ W. nearly 3^ cables from the black beacon east of Curlew isle. The next two beacons are on the north side of the narrows north of Curlew point, which are further marked by a red buoy south of the west of these beacons. The narrows are here only half a cable wide, with 3 to 4 fathoms water. The fourth beacon is on the south- west end of the flat extending from Orchard point. There is a red buoy about N.W. by W. H cables from this beacon. From the beacon last noticed, the edge of the flat which borders Orchard point curves to the northward and the gulf channel takes a general N. by E. direction to abreast of Brown point, with an average width of less than one cable, and depths of not less than 18 feet. The eastern side is rather steep- to, except opposite Brown point, where a spit projects 200 yards from the sand and mud-flat. On the west side, shoal water and the sand and mud-flat extend one-third of a mile from the mangroves, their outer edge being marked by four black beacons with diamond-shaped heads. The channel is nearly one cable wide, and carries 2^ to 3^ fathoms. The coast from the south end of the red bank opposite Brown point trends N.W. ^ N. If miles to Flagstaff point. A sand and mud-flat, partly covered with mangroves, extends off the shore. From Flagstaff point, the bank on the east side of the channel curves to the southward for G^ cables, it then turns to the south-east for 5 J cables, where it forms a spit marked by a red beacon. This beacon bears N.E. by E. ^ E. 2J cables from Brown point. Between this spit and the flat which extends off the land there is an inlet one to 1^ cables wide, extending three-quarters ot a mile to the north-west. In the entrance, which is on the east side of the spit-beacon, there are 21 feet, quickly shoaling to 4 and 5 feet. See chart, No. 401. 272 srENCER GULF. [Chap. iv. The wostorn shoiv fiinn tho nuuigiwosj otl Imvwu point curve!? in a uorth-wost and northerly direotiou 2^ miles to Camp point, and is lineil with mangroves. For 1| miles l>etween this shore and the higher land In^hind thert* is a swamp a quarter of a mile bnxid. overtloweii at spring ; this swamp, thouoe to Camp point ilot s not exoeeii 150 yards iu breadth. The Si^nd and mud-tlat which borders this shore is not more thim 100 yards bnxul, except ott' the north black l>eacon, and Wtween 2 and 4 cables south ot* Camp iH>int, where it extends more than SOO yanls from the mangroves. For 4 cables south of this beacon the flat is tVniteil by a shelt\ having 5 to 1 1 feet water on it, and a rvK'ky spit projtvts nearly to the opposite side of the channel about half a mile south of Camp point. The olxaiinel. — From off Orcharvl point the channel is marked on the west side by black buoys and beacons and on the east side by red buoys and beacons. Vessels proceeding to V\>rt Augusta should leave the reil buoys and beacons on the st.irbotirvl hand at a distance of from 75 to llK) feet. There is now a clear channel between Curie w isle and Port Augusta of not less 17 feet at low water springs and with a width of not less thim 2lK> feet. Anohora^e. — The anchorage of Port Augusta, extends from abMHSl Flagslaff point N.E. ^ N. nearly half a mile, and is one to 1| cables 'wide^ with 4^ to 2 fathoms water, having sufficient space for e'Ight or ten fauege t^ss^^Is to swing at iuooriugs> in 18 to ^> feet 'water. AbreasI the wharf, the port has been dredged for a length of 1»21>0 laet and a width of iUX> feet to :S0 and 22 feet at low water. Moorings. — Seven complete sets of tirst clafis moorings have been laid do\vu in frv>m 15 feet (for small \-es8els) to 29 feet at low water> providing acconimoeing intended to moor by, but simply to show the positions of the moorings, and to facilitate picking up the mooting bridles. In the event of the weather being such as would render it improper to take hold of the large buoy, the vessel must let go an anchor clear of the direction of the moi^ring chain on the bott-om. Having brought the vessel near the mooring-buoy, a little black wooden buoy will be seen, riding by a small chain attached to the mooring bridle, lying on the bottom. Having hauled up the small chain and brought the large link, or shackle to the hawse, shackle on the vessel's cable. Should an anchor be down, lift it, and, if necessary, shackle on the second chain ; unshackle the small buoy, and veer cable as requisite ; observing that, as the bridles are in short lengths, a vessel should ride with as much range as the locality or 8tat« of the weather would require were she riding at her own anchors. In unmooring, the small buoy chain must be secured before slip- ping, and the large buoy used under the same conditions as expressed in the first j^art of these r^ulations. * It will be obvious to masters of vessels that no confidence can be placed in securing yeaaels to the large buoys, when it is remembered that the constant friction of that portion of the chain touching the bottom so wears the stoutest chains, that very few months* wear shakes out the studs, rendering the chains quite imfit to hold on by in any weather likely to cause a strain on them. As every precaution is taken by the Marine Board to keep the moorings in a perfect state of efficiency, masters and others in charge of vessels will be held liable for all expenses in the event of the moorings being injured, in addition to penalties of not less than 5/., nor exceeding 20/« Port Au^rusta. — The town of Port Augusta is situated on the south-east side of the port, and from the fiag-staff, which stands in front of the Custom house, extends over a quarter of a mile to the north-eastward. In front of the town is the wharf, which is l»2lU feet long, with a depth of 22 feet alongside it, and with railways laid on it. There are three jetties to the north-eaat of the wharf. There is also a jetty at Port Augusta West, 500 feet long, with 5 feet water at its outer end. Se^ diart. No. 401. SO 11713 8 274 SPENCER GULP. [Chap. IV. Port Augusta, at the head of Spencer gulf, is the northernmost and one of the most important ports of South Australia ; it is the shipping place for the produce of a vast pastoral and mineral district lying to the northward, westward, and eastward. Every year adds to the number of copper mines opened. In 1862 it only consisted of a few wooden houses, and two sub- stantial stone and brick stores. The population of the town in 1891 numbered 1,274 persons. A steam vessel plies weekly between Adelaide and the intermediate ports. There is also rail communica- tion with Adelaide via Terowie. Port Augusta is connected with the universal telegraph system. Supplies. — All kinds of dry goods can be obtained from the stores at Port Augusta, and fresh meat from Stirling, a township E.S.E. 4 miles from Port Augusta ; but vegetables are not to be had, the surrounding country not being fit for cultivation. Water. — The supply of water for Port Augusta and the district is obtained from numerous springs on the western slope of the Flinders range. Storage reservoirs contain 8,205,000 gallons, and an additional reservoir is proposed. Water is laid on at the wharf and also at the jetty at Port Augusta West. Firewood can be obtained in small quantities. Pish, principally schnapper, may be caught in great quantities with hook and line. The best schnapper ground is between Snapper and Curlew points and close off the north-west edge of the bank forming the narrows at Curlew point. Trade. — In 1892, 51 vessels of a tonnage of 45,981 entered and cleared at Port Augusta. The trade of Port Augusta is chiefly in exports, which are — wheat, flour, copper, wool, tallow, hides, skins, bark, silver, lead ores, bullion, oats, bran, hay, &c. After shearing time, from September to December, large vessels are constantly at this port loading wool or copper ore ; in 1894, there were shipped in 30 vessels of 27,079 tons, — wheat 1,224,744 bushels, flour 3,818 tons, wool 20,286 bales, bullion 1,350 bars, and manganese ore 550 tons. In 1894 several ocean steamers sailed with wool and other produce direct for London, the largest being of 2,555 tons, and many other steamers and sailing vessels for various ports. Vessels lying in the stream at Port Augusta receive cargo from both sides See chart, No. 401. •Chap. IV.] PORT AUGUSTA. 275 :at the same time. Railway trucks are shunted close alongside vessels at the wharves, enabling cargo to be handled direct. There being no slips nearly every iron ship is beached on the soft rsand to clean the bottom, which is easily done owing to the rise and fall of tide.* Stirling", E.S.E. 4 miles from Port Augusta, is a township contain- ing in 1891, 77 inhabitants. The overland telegraph from Port Darwin joins the other line to Adelaide at this point. In 1881 an abundance of good water was obtained by boring. It is famed for its fruit gardens. HEAD of SPENCER GULF.— From Port Augusta the low 'eastern mangrove shore curves northward two-thirds of a mile. The sand and mud-flat which borders the shore extends about 100 yards from the mangroves to 200 yards opposite Camp point, and has a narrow shelf of shoal water along it. The gulf channel from Camp point winds to the northward, and is navigable but narrow for about 3 miles above Port Augusta ; at about one mile north-west of the point it passes close to the eastward of Flinders Red cliff, at one mile above which, in a N.N.E. direction, -the channel is dry at low water ; but the gulf, here reduced to a mere salt swamp, flooded at springs, extends about 22 miles further to the northward. Aspect. — The land immediately behind Port Augusta rises to the height of 73 feet, and Flinders Red cliff is 95 feet 'high, the latter being apparently the greatest elevatfon in this vicinity ; most of the adjacent land is low, with bare mud-swamps, flooded at springs. Flinders rangre, on the east side of the upper part of Spencer gulf, appears to be almost a continuation of the high range — of which Barn hill, already mentioned, forms one of the summits — extending in a N. J W. direction from the head of the gulf of St. Yincent. From 10 miles south-east of mount Ferguson, in Germein bay. Flinders range extends N. by W. J W., 48 miles to Devil's peak, 2,288 feet high ; the most conspicuous of the intermediate heights being mount Bluff, 2,301 feet high, 6 miles E. J N. of mount Ferguson ; mount Remarkable, 3,130 feet high, North, 18 miles from mount Bluff ; and mount Brown, 3,174 feet high, N.N.W. i W. 19 miles from mount Remarkable. * The largest ostrich farm in the world (about 700 birds) is situated about 8 miles northward of Port Augusta. Seech9.rt, No. 401. SO 11712 S 2 276 SPENCER GULP. [Chap. lY^ From Devil's peak other peaked mountains of considerable eleva- tion, extend northward along the ridge of the same barren rocky range^ which terminates at mount Arden, beyond which nothing is visible from the sea. The ridge of Flinders range is distant 8 to 12 miles from the eastern shore between Ward point and Port xA^ugusta, the intermediate space being mostly low and swampy. PilotS.—See page 251. DIRECTIONS. — The channel to Port Augusta being marked! by beacons and buoys, vessels bound up the gulf keep the black beacons and buoys to port, and the red to starboard. The black beacons and the black perch buoys have diamond shaped heads ; the red beacons are round headed, and the red perch buoys have a ball.. The beacons are placed in depths varying from 2 to 10 feet at low water, and care should be taken in approaching them, as many of" them are close to the edge of steep banks. There is a red and black chequered perch buoy with a ball on Douglas bank, which may be passed on either side. From about half a mile east of Lowly point steer N. ^ E. (N. 6°E.)' for about 12 miles, according to the tidal stream, passing in 10 and 11 fathoms 2 cables eastward of Lowly point shoal. This course leads about one mile off Backy point, two-thirds of a mile off the shoal water to the southward of Douglas point, and half a mile east- ward of Douglas bank. On this course, with soundings of 10 to IL^ fathoms off Lowly point shoal, the depths are irregular, from 6 J to > 12 fathoms to Backy point, between which and Douglas point there are 12 to 10 fathoms, and thence the depth of water gradually decreases to 6 fathoms eastward of Douglas bank. After passing Douglas point, keep Backy point in sight or in^ line with Crag point, bearing S. by W. ^ W. (S. 17° W.), until the- north end of Bluff range comes on with the north part of Two> Hummock point bearing N.N.W. J W. (N. 25° W.), and then steer N. by W. (N. 11° W.) till North Hummock of Two Hummock point bears West. The course then is N.W. J N. (N. 37° W.), to- pass about a quarter of a mile westward of Middle bank, and' through Flinders channel, between East and West sands, taking - care not to get into less than 7 fathoms in the vicinity of Middle bank. The East and West sands, which are nearly one mile apart,., generally show. See chart, No. 401. •Chap. IV.] PORT AUGUSTA. 277 If, when in 10 or 9 fathoms at half a mile off Douglas point, it be •desirable to pass westward of Douglas bank, where there is the deepest water, and the tidal streams are strongest, steer N. by W. (N. 11° W.) for South Hummock on Two Hummock point taking care to keep Crag point shut in by Douglas point, and do not go into less than 9 fathoms, while mount Gullet bears between E. by N. and E. ^ S. When mount Gullet bears E. ^ S. haul out N. by E. (N. 11° E.) till Inshore Hummock comes on with the south ^art of Two Hummock point, bearing W. | S., and then steer N.W.|N. (N. 37° W.), passing westward of Middle bank and through Flinders channel, as just directed. When the black beacon off Commissariat point bears North, or Red cliff is nearly in line with the foot of mount Grainger, bearing S.E. by E. ^ E., the mangroves on the western shore being distant half a mile, alter course to N. J E. (N. 3° E.) to pass through Bluff reach, having the red beacons on the starboard hand, gradually closing the western shore as Commissariat point is approached. Just before reaching Commissariat point the depth of water decreases to 3 fathoms.' Pass a cable east of Commissariat point beacon and steer about N. by W. (N. 11° W.) through the lower part of Snapper reach, leaving the black buoy and beacon on the port, and the red beacon on the starboard hand ; having cleared the spit close to the northward of the red beacon, alter course to about N.N.E. (N. 22° E.), keeping on the eastern side of the channel, and passing nearly 2 cables from Snapper point. North of Snapper point the gulf channel becomes so narrow that -the plan of Port Augusta is a better guide than written directions for proceeding to Port Augusta, and the channel is so well marked that it is easy with a leading wind, without which no square-rigged vessel should proceed beyond Commissariat point. The wind from S.S.W. round to E.S.E. is a leading wind through all -the reaches in going up ; and from N.N.E. to W.N.W. it is a leading wind in coming down. Anchoragre. — There is anchorage in any part of the estuary of Port Augusta, south of Douglas bank, the best being in 6 fathoms, near the east shore, as the strength of the tidal streams is greater in the deep water along the west shore. See chart, No. 401. 278 SPENCER GULF. [Chap. IV. An anchorage in Backy bay has been recommended, with Lowly point bearing S. ^ E., distant 3 miles ; but from May to September,, when strong north and west winds are frequent, more shelter may be obtained in 6 fathoms, sand, near the head of the bay, with Backy point bearing from N.E. to E.N.E., distant about one mile,, where a vessel is out of the stream. In the strong winds from S.S.E. which prevail from December to- March, when Port Augusta is most frequented, a vessel seeking anchor- age for the night or a tide should, when within Lowly point, haul to the eastward and come to in 6 fathoms, under the lee of Ward spit. TIDES and TIDAL STREAMS.— The tides in the northern part of Spencer gulf are ygyy irregular. At Port Augusta it is high water, full and change, at 8 h. 30 m., and at Lowly point at 7 h. m. The rise at ordinary springs at the former place varies- from 9 to 12 feet, and at the latter 6 to 8 feet ; but after a strong hot North wind, when it veers round to West and South, the tide at Port Augusta has been known to rise 16 feet. The times of high water, and the rise and fall, are subject to the wind. During springs, strong North winds sometimes cause the water to fall one to 1^ feet lower than usual, and than shown on the chart. After full and change, the time of high water gets gradually later- till the time of neaps, when it is high water between 10 h. and 11 h.,. both at Port Augusta and Lowly point. Then a day occurs when, the tide ebbs or flows twelve hours together, the whole tide often not ranging more than a few inches. After this the tides again become regular ; but the time of high water has changed to between 5 h. and 6 h., and gradually returns to the full and change times. It may thus be generally assumed that at Port Augusta high water takes place in the morning and evening, and low water in the middle of the day. At night the tide is generally one or 2 feet higher than in the morning. The stream generally sets fairly up and down the gulf channel, 1^ to 2 knots, and changes with the rise and fall, except about the mouths of the small channels through East sands, and to the south- ward of Douglas bank, where the in-going stream sets N.W. across- into the deep channel, the out-going stream setting S.E. Winds. — From December to March strong winds from South and S.S.E. prevail ; and in January, February, and March they are often interrupted by hot winds, which blow fiercely from the northward,. See chart, No. 401. Chap. IV.] PORT AUGUSTA. 279 sometimes for seven or eight days, raising the temperature to 120** in the shade. The hot winds frequently terminate in a squall from the southward, or a thunderstorm from S.W. They blow under a cloudless sky, with a thick red haze. Whirlwinds are common from November to March ; but they are usually confined to the plain between Flinders range and the gulf, where several may be seen at once, raising pillars of dust to a great height. During the months of April and May strong northerly winds are sometimes experienced, with a hard, cold-looking sky ; these winds, although coming from the same quarter as the hot winds, do not raise the temperature above 75° or 80°. From May to September north-west to south-west winds generally prevail. Barometer. — At Port Augusta in 1890 the mean height of the barometer was 30*00 inches. The highest reading was 30-54: inches in May, and the lowest 29*35 inches in October. Temperature. — The average temperature in 1890 was 66°*5 Fahr., the maximum 110°'8 in January, and the minimum 35°*7 in June. January was the hottest month, with a mean of 82°* 1, and July the coolest, with a mean of 52°. Sometimes the temperature is constantly over 100° for several days. Rainfall. — ^At Port Augusta in 1890, the rainfall was 13 inchesf, falling on 77 days. The mean annual rainfall (for 30 years) was 9*09 inches ; the greatest fall in one year being 15*08 inches and the least 2*21 inches. See chart, No. 401. 280 • CHAPTER V. AUSTRALIA, — SOUTH COAST, CAPE SPENCER TO CAPE OTWAY ; INCLUDING INVESTIGATOR STRAIT, THE GULF OF ST. VINCENT, AND KANGAROO ISLAND. Variation in 1897. Cape Spencer - - 4° 45' E. | Cape Otway - 7^ 40' E. Cape Northumberland - 6° 20' E. Nearly stationary. INVESTIGATOR STRAIT, the most direct channel between Spencer gulf and the gulf of St. Vincent, lies between the north coast of Kangaroo island, from cape Borda to Marsden point, and the south coast of Yorke peninsula, from cape Spencer to Troubridge point. Investigator strait extends 52 miles E. by N. ^ N. and W. by S. J S., and is 23 miles wide. With the exception of the rocks in the vicinity of Althorpe isles and the shoal flat off Sandy point, the strait is free from dangers. From 45 fathoms, in the middle of the western entrance of Investigator strait, the depth decreases to 25 and 20 fathoms, after which it is irregular between 12 and 20 fathoms as far as the gulf of St. Vincent, the deepest water being on the south side ; but there is no danger in any part to prevent a ship passing through the strait with perfect confidence. The bottom is mostly broken shells, mixed with sand, gravel, or coral. CAPE BORDA, the north-west point of Kangaroo island, and the south-west side of the western entrance of Investigator strait, is a bold cliff headland, the cliffs being 200 feet high at the pitch of the point, but rising to over 400 feet 1^ miles to the southward. At cape Borda the upper half of the cliff is whitish limestone and the lower half very dark volcanic stone. The hills at cape Borda rise above the cliff to a height of more than 500 feet, and are covered with small scrub. The cape should not be approached too closely, Sec chart, No. 2,389a, St. Vincent and Spencer gulfs, scale vi = 024 inch. Ohap. v.] INVESTIGATOR STRAIT.— CAPE BORDA. 281 •especially in light winds, when the swell might set a vessel too near the shore, on which the surf, in westerly winds, breaks with great violence. Caution. — During the rising tide the stream sets strongly to the northward, towards Spencer gulf. Rocket apparatus. — A rocket apparatus is maintained at cape Borda, and in the event of a vessel being stranded near, and the lives of the crew being in danger, assistance will, if possible, be rendered from the shore. LIGHT. — The lighthouse on cape Borda exhibits at 510 feet ^above high water a revolving light, showing white and red alternately every half -minute ; the tower, square and painted white, is about 33 feet in height, and is built on the slope of the hill, one-third of a mile S.E. from the cape ; the keepers' houses are close to it, and the hill rises above them. The light is visible from N. 34° E. round by south and east to S. 56° W. The white light may be seen from a distance of 30 miles in clear weather, and the red light 15 miles, but during the hot winds and calms of the summer months they may be seen much farther. When the red light is not visible the white light will appear at intervals of one ininute. During thick or hazy weather, or strong S.S.W. winds with rain, the light is occasionally partially obscured ; in such weather great -caution is necessary, and the lead should be used. Signal station. — There is a signal station at the lighthouse and communication can be made by the commercial code. This station is connected by telegraph. Ships hoisting their number will be reported at Adelaide and Port Adelaide. The storm signal is a blue swallow-tailed flag under a red ball. Meteorological observations. — The mean height of the barometer at cape Borda in 1890 was 30*03 inches. The highest reading was 30*61 in July and the lowest 29*32 also in July. The mean temperature for the year was 60° Fahr., the maximum S7° in January, and the minimum 40°*8 in July. The rainfall in that year was 31*9 inches, rain falling on 157 days. The mean annual rainfall is 24*4 inches for 21 years, the greatest amount in one year being 36 inches and the least 17 inches. See chaxt, No. 2,389a. 282 • INVESTIGATOR STRAIT. [Chap. V,- SOUTH SIDE of Investigator strait.— From cape Borda the north coast of Kangaroo island trends E.N.E. for 10 miles to cape Forbin, and is bold and cliffy between those points. Landing". — Nearly 2^ miles east of cape Borda is a break, form- ing a small cove in the cliffs, called Harvey's Keturn ; here all the stores for the lighthouse are landed in fine weather in the summer, on a small sandy beach, which washes away in winter, during which season there is sometimes nearly an interval of a month before any safe landing can be effected. Cape Torrens, 7 miles E.N.E. of cape Borda, is a very high point, the cliff, which divides the space between capes Forbin and Borda into two bights, being 725 feet high ; in the western bight the cliffs continue high and level for nearly 4 miles, and in the eastern bight fall gradually to De Mole river, a small stream running into the sea over a little beach, three-quarters of a mile south of cape Forbin. Cape Forbin is a rugged cliffy point, 170 feet high, from which the coast trends E. by N. ^ N. for 8 miles. East for 8 miles, and then curves round to cape Button, which is nearly E. by N. ^ N 18 miles from cape Forbin. The whole of this coast is very rugged, broken,- and cliffy, with several small coves and beaches on which landing can be effected, according to the direction of the wind. Snug cove, the second cove eastward of cape Forbin, and 3 J miles from it, is the most sheltered, being only open to the north- west, and is partially protected by some rocks which run off a point to the westward of it. The beach does not show from seaward, but the cove may be known by a small peaked islet about 90 feet high, which lies close to the point of the cove, and by its being IJ miles to the westward of a high cliff, with some white marks near its summit. Small coasters visit Snug cove, and lie in 6 to 9 feet water close to the beach on the north side, made fast head and stern. There is a house and some cultivated land in the gully which runs into Snug cove ; it is the western inhabited spot on the island, except cape Borda lighthouse. Snug cove is about 300 yards long and 150 broad,, with 2 to 5 fathoms water in it. iSee chart, No. 2,389«. Chap, v.] KANGAROO ISLAND, NORTH COAST. 28^ Western river, 6 miles eastward of Snug cove, is a small stream which runs into a cove, with a sandy beach, about 300 yards deep,. and 150 yards wide ; the cove is open to the north, and there are 4 fathoms water in its centre. The COAST. — Between Snug cove and Western river is a range of high cliffs nearly level ; the highest part, 733 feet above high water, rising to 877 feet at IJ miles inland, is 2^ miles west of Western river. The next beach, 5 miles east of Western river, is known as Snellings, which faces to the north-west, and is a quarter of a mile in length. The cliffs about Snellings beach are much lower than to the westward, with a range of wooded hills rising behind them, giving this part of the island a more pleasant appear- ance than that hitherto described. The Middle river flows into the sea through Snellings beach in winter, and is navigable for boats for a short distance ; in the ^summer its mouth is blocked up with sand and weed. The coast between Snellings beach and cape Dutton is formed of broken cliffs of moderate height, with small patches of beach between, and no dangers more than 2 cables off it. Anclioragre. — There is anchorage for coasters with southerly winds in 3 fathoms water, about a cable from the beach ; and in 7 fathoms half a mile off, but the bottom is rocky at the latter depth. Vessels anchoring off Snellings beach should give the north-east point of the beach a berth of a quarter of a mile to avoid a reef which runs off the point to the northward, on which the sea generally breaks. Cape Dutton is a sloping cliffy point nearly 200 feet high ; a sunken reef runs off N.E. by E., nearly a quarter of a mile from the cape, with 10 fathoms water outside. There is sometimes a tide race off the cape, which in strong winds looks like a break. Cape Cassini, nearly E.N.E. 9 miles from cape Dutton, ia 127 feet high, and formed of white limestone. The COAST immediately west of cape Cassini rises to high broken cliffs, and the same kind of coast continues to cape Dutton,. forming several small coves, which, however, are all open to the north and west. See chart, No. 2,389ft 284 INVESTIGATOR STRAIT. [Chap. V. Stokes bay. — The largest cove, 3 miles east of cape Button, is called Stokes bay, and coasters occasionally anchor there with south- easterly winds, in from 4 to 7 fathoms water, rocky bottom, 2 cables off the beach. MOUNT MAODONNELL, the highest land on the north side of Kangaroo island, lies S. by W. 2^ miles from cape Cassini, it is a round-topped hill, 984 feet high. The land at the back of cape Cassini rises gradually, forming a range of scrub-covered hills between 700 and 800 feet high. Sounding's. — The coast from cape Borda to cape Cassini is very bold and steep-to. Between capes Borda and Forbin there are 20 to 30 fathoms water at half a mile off shore, and between the latter and €ape Button 25 to 15 fathoms at the same distance off, with rather ishallower water off Snellings beach. ^ The COAST. — From cape Cassini the coast trends E. ^ N. 9 miles io cape B'Estaing. For 1^ miles east of cape Cassini the coast is low and rocky, with n rocky ledge running out nearly 200 yards from it. East IJ miles from cape Cassini a reef, nearly awash, extends a quarter of a mile off the coast. The coast then rises in high dark cliffs for nearly 4 miles, broken by the small sandy beach of Bashwood bay, which is a slight indentation 3^ miles east of cape Cassini. Andioragre. — In Bashwood bay there is anchorage in 5 fathoms -water, sand, a quarter of a mile off the beach. Smitll's bay is shallow, with a black boulder beach 1^ miles in length. The shore behind is low and rises gradually to the south- ward to Freestone hill, 563 feet high, flat-topped, and wooded in •clumps. There is anchorage with off shore winds in Smith's bay in 5^ fathoms, a quarter of a mile off the middle of the boulder beach, but the landing is bad. The coast is a continuous cliff from the east end of Smith's bay to bear south of S. by W. (S. 11° W.). ANTECHAMBER BAY is between cape St. Alban to the south-east, and cape Coutts to the north-west, the distance between these headlands being 3| miles. The bay, which is 1^ miles deep, is bordered by a sandy beach. There are 13 fathoms in the centre of the bay, gradually shoaling to 10 fathoms at 7 cables off shore, when the water suddenly shoals to 3 fathoms, sand, and then shoals gradually to the beach. The north-west shore of the bay is high and rocky, the centre low, and the south-east end high and woody. A rocky point, IJ miles from cape St. Alban, divides the beach. North-east of this point are some rocky patches, the least water on which — 12 feet — is W. by S. from cape St. Alban, and nearly N. E. by E. 4 cables from the point. In the southern part of the bay no vessel of any considerable draught should anchor in less than 3| fathoms, at low water ; this part, however, is only frequented by vessels employed by the Government to take supplies to the lighthouse. Anchoragre. — This bay affords a most convenient anchorage for vessels bound though Backstairs passage meeting with head winds during contrary tides, and for shelter during gales. Vessels anchor in any part of the bay half a mile off the beach ; but the most frequented anchorage is off the north-west end] of the beach, with cape Coutts N. by W. ^ W. and the entrance to Chapman river (a small stream near the north-west end of the beach), from S.W. to W.S.W. in 3 J fathoms, sand, about a quarter of a mile off shore. This anchorage is perfectly sheltered from all westerly winds and out of the strength of the tidal stream. \ Good anchorage may be obtained in 3^ fathoms, on a sandy bottom in the south-east angle of the bay, with cape St. Alban in line with South Page island bearing E. by N. J N., about half-way between the cape and rocky point, 4 cables off shore. Smaller Tyessels anchor further in, according to draught. The stream is scarcely^ felt inside the 3-fathoms line. See chart, No. 25. Ohap. v.] ANTECHAMBER BAY.— BACKSTAIRS PASSAGE. 307 From its position it would appear to a stranger that during winds from E.S.E. a heavy sea would enter the bay ; such, however, is not the case, as the strong tidal streams in the passage cause so great a ripple that the swell is smoothed before it reaches the shoal water. The heaviest swell is after strong southerly gales, when a roll comes in round cape St. Alban, and at times renders landing in the north- west corner of the bay difficult. In such cases the southern portion of the anchorage is the smoothest ; but with plenty of cable a vessel will ride in any part of the bay. Fish.. — The bay abounds with fish. Cape Coutts, the north-west end of Antechamber bay, is bold high land, with soundings of 14 fathoms within 100 yards of the rocks. Tides and tidal streams.— It is high water, full and change, in Antechamber bay at 2 h. 15 m. ; springs rise 4 to 5 feet, neaps rise 2 to 3 feet. The streams in the passage run for nearly 2 hours after high and low water. Tlie coast. — From cape Coutts a bold cliffy coast rounding gradually, with deep water close to, extends to Hog bay point. Hog bay point is W. by N. i N. 7 miles from cape Coutts. It has a small sandy beach on its west side, and a shallow boat harbour on its east side. The land about Hog bay point is cultivated. There is anchorage for coasters in the sandy bay to the eastward in from 2 to 4 fathoms water, one to 2 cables off the beach. Small coasters also anchor off the mouth of the boat harbour where they are out of the stream, to land and take in cargo. BACKSTAIRS PASSAGE.— The eastern entrance into the gulf of St. Vincent and Investigator strait is botmded to the south- west by Kangaroo island, from cape Willoughby to Kangaroo head, - and to the north-east by cape Jervis, a prominent headland, bearing N. by W. I W. distant 13 miles from cape Willoughby, with a ledge of rocks extending about 400 yards from its north-western side. This passage is 12 miles long, and 7 miles wide between cape Jervis . and Kangaroo island. The Pages are a rocky group lying N.E. by E., between 8 and See chart, No. 25. so 11712 ^ 2 308 KANGAROO ISLAND. [Chap. V^ 10 miles from cape Willoughby. North Page, the largest of the- group, is a rocky islet 69 feet high, and may be seen from a distance of 11 miles. South Page is nearly as high as North Page, from which it lies S. by W. about one mile. There is a channel between these two islets nearly one mile wide, having 7 to 13 fathoms water, which is quite safe with a commanding breeze. The north portion of the rocks which lie S. by W. ^ W. from 3 to 5 cables from the South Page islet, shows above water at all times of tide ; but the south portion forms a reef, always covered. CAUTION. — During light southerly winds, and the stream setting to the northward, this reef should be most carefully avoided by vessels standing across the passage, when to windward of the group. Yatala shoal is 3| miles long N.W. and S.E., and a quarter of a mile broad, with 8 to 3 fathoms water on it ; but round it the depth increases to 14 fathoms. The upheaving of this considerable body of sand may have been caused by the action of the tidal stream, . which in this passage sometimes runs at a rate of 4 to 5 knots ; and as it appears possible that time may reduce the depth of water on the bank, it should be guarded against by vessels of great draught. From the shoalest part, cape Willoughby lighthouse bears S. by W. 6| miles, cape Jervis N.W. by N. 7J miles, and South Page E. by S. 1 S. 6J miles. DIRECTIONS. — Backstairs passage presents to the navigator but few difficulties to overcome, it being navigable for vessels of any size or draught ; and as there is a clear channel nearly 4 miles wide, on the south-west side, and another 3 miles wide, on the north-east side of Yatala shoal, the chart will suggest the best route through. If, on coming from the eastward, and bound up the gulf of St. Vincent, night should be approaching, keep on the north side of the passage, and haul round cape Jervis, all that coast being quite bold. To clear the rocks off cape Jervis keep cape Willoughby light- house shut in by the high land of cape St. Alban. When the gulf is open, and the vessel is about 5 miles north-west of cape Jervis, steer a N. by E. i E. (N. 17° E.) course till off Port Adelaide. See- page 316. At nigrllt, from the southward, cape Willoughby light should not be brought to bear south of W. by S. \ S. (S. 73° W.) until quite certain^ See chart, No. 25. *€hap. v.] YATALA SHOAL.— NBPBAN BAY. 309 of passing well east or west of the Pages islets. By keeping 3 or 4 miles from the coast of Kangaroo island, these islets are easily avoided ; Yatala shoal and the rocks off cape Jervis are cleared by shutting in cape Willoughby light behind cape St. Alban. Working to the southward. — As in deeply-laden ships it is impossible to beat through Backstairs passage in one tide, it is prudent, when bound out against southerly winds, to wait during the north-going stream in Antechamber bay. The TIDAL STREAMS demand great attention, as they ^are rapid and sometimes irregular, often causing delay for days, unless the anchorage in Antechamber bay is taken advantage of. The tidal influence in the southern entrance of the passage does not ►extend far beyond cape Willoughby, when the stream takes a "direction parallel with the coast, coming from the westward during the rising tide, and setting in a contrary direction during the falling tide. As the stream in Encounter bay and ojffi Murray beach runs from the south-east during the rising tide, the streams probably meet in the vicinity of the Pages islets. The rate of the stream in Backstairs passage varies according to the direction and strength of the prevailing winds, but at times it exceeds 4 knots, and it may be that under extraordinary circumstances it runs 5 knots. KANGAROO HEAD, which is W. i S. 1^ miles from Hog bay point, is the eastern point of Nepean bay. It is a bluff, rocky point, with 7 fathoms water close to ; the land rises steeply above the point to between 300 and 400 feet. The stream sets rapidly past Kangaroo head, and during the west-going stream it forms an eddy to the southward, with strong tide ripples, dangerous for an open boat, off the point. NEPEAN BAY extends from Kangaroo head N.W. by W. J W. 16 miles to Marsden point, and contains three extensive anchorages — Eastern cove. Western cove, and Kingscote harbour. Eastern cove, immediately west of Kangaroo head, extends across to Morrison point W. by S. 6 miles, with a depth north and ^outh of 4^ miles. There is good anchorage in Eastern cove anywhere Se$ charts, No. 25 and No. 2,389«. 310 KANGAROO ISLAND. [Chap. V^ in from 7 fathoms water between the outer points, to 4 fathoms near- the head of the cove. The shore of Eastern cove trends S. by W. 2 J miles from Kangaroo head, rugged and rocky, to a sandy beach nearly three-quarters of a mile long ; and then S.W. by S. 3 miles, in alternate beaches and low rocky points, to the south-eastern corner of the cove : the 3-fathoms bank extends from one-half to three-quarters of a miJe- from this shore. From the south-east corner a beach trends to the south-west corner, 3| miles west with a curve to the southward, and broken by only one small rocky point. At the south-west corner of the cove is the channel leading into Pelican lagoon, locally known as American river ; off this part of the beach extensive sand-flats dry out nearly three-quarters of a, mile. Ballast head, a bluff-looking point, the lower part of which is composed of black rock, is 2 miles N.E. of the entrance to Pelican lagoon, and S.E. by E. 2J miles from Morrison point. Between Ballast head and Morrison point, the coast is rocky, with small' stony beaches, and some cultivated land behind. There are 3 to 4 fathoms water a cable from the shore, and 4 fathoms close to Ballast head. Southward of Ballast head the land rises in wooded hills from a low and rocky shore, fronted by a flat which increases in extent near the entrance to the lagoon. The south side of the cove is low, with wooded hills at the back. AnclLOrag'e. — The best anchorage is on the western side of the cove, with Ballast head bearing from S.W. to N.W., in from 6 to 7 fathoms water on the former, and 4 to 5 fathoms on the latter bearing ; and from one-half to 1^ miles off shore. The bottom is ooze and mud. Towards the eastern side of the cove the holding ground is not so good, there being extensive patches of limestone rock. A northerly gale throws a high short sea into Eastern cove : to be out of this coasters usually anchor under Ballast head, with that point bearing N.N.E., in 3 fathoms, or as far in as their draught will allow. Eastem,> cove abounds in fish. Si^e chart, No. 2,389a. Chap, v.] EASTERN COVE. — PELICAN LAGOON. 311 Eastern cove is principally frequented by coasters and small craft overtaken by bad weather from the north-westward, at the out-ports in the gulf of St. Vincent. There is, however, no reason why vessels of a larger class, when seeking shelter, should not take advantage of this fine bay, as a ship will often fetch into Eastern cove, when a day's hard work would be requisite to beat up, during westerly gales, to the anchorage under Marsden point or into Kingscote harbour. Large vessels, from their draught, will not obtain much shelter from northerly winds, as they are unable to get under the lee of Ballast head. Pelican lagroon, a shallow sheet of water south of Eastern cove, is about 3^ miles long east and west, and 1^ miles north and south. An arm of the lagoon extends to half a mile from the south side of Kangaroo island. Pelican lagoon is connected with Eastern cove by American river, a passage 2 miles long, half a mile broad, and much narrowed by sand-banks which run out on each side. This channel runs in a south-westerly direction from Eastern cove into the west end of the lagoon, after passing on the west side of two small islets. Buoys and directions. — For the guidance of those who may be desirous of seeking shelter in American river, the entrance has been marked by a chequered black and red perch buoy, moored in mid-channel in 9 feet at low water. Vessels pass on either side of it ; half a mile to the S.W. of this buoy, a similar buoy has been moored in mid-channel. After passing this latter buoy, by attending to the lead and keeping a good look out, no difficulty will be experienced in reaching the anchorage off Buick's, the sand-banks on either side being well defined. Tides and tidal streams.— It is high water, full and change, at the entrance of Pelican lagoon at about 4:h. Om ; spring tides rise 4 feet. The streams in the American river run at the rate of from 2 to 3 knots, and begin from one to two hours after high and low water respectively. Morrison point is a headland of moderate elevation, having a few straggling rocks at a cable off it. Western cove extends from Morrison point across to Bear See chart, No. 2,389«. 312 KANGAROO ISLAND. [Chap. V. point, W.N.W. 8 miles. Its southern shore trends from Morrison point half a mile West, and then 2^ miles W.S.W. to a red cliff point, being high and rocky between. A range of wooded hills along the south side of Western cove gradually falls to the westward. Freiicllinan rock lies N.W. by N. to N. by W. from three- quarters to one mile from the red cliff point ; it is an extensive rocky patch half a mile long N.W. and S.E., and a quarter of a mile broad. There are 20 feet water just inside the rock, and 5 fathoms directly outside. The shoalest water on the rock is 12 feet, with the red cliff point S.E. by S., 8 cables distant. The soundings decrease from the rock towards the shore, from 3 fathoms to 2 close to the cliff point, with several rocky patches on the bottom. Morrison point bearing E. ^ S. leads a quarter of a mile to the north of the rock, the point bearing East just clearing the north end of the rock ; and Kangaroo head just shut in by Morrison point, bearing E. J N., just leads clear inside the rock, but over a 2-fathoms rock one mile farther to the westward. The SOUtlieril shore from the red cliff point trends about West for 7^ miles to the bight of Western cove. The red cliffs extend 1^ miles west from the red cliff point, after which the shore is a continuous sandy beach to the western end of the cove. Two rocky patches which dry at low water lie off the west end of the red cliff, and bear N.W. and W.N.W. from it, each half a mile off, with only 9 feet water between them and the shore. Commencing to the eastward from the red cliff point, a sand flat dries off shore from a quarter to half a mile all round the cove. From the west corner of Western cove the shore trends N.E. by N. 5^ miles to Bear point, at the entrance to Kingscote harbour ; this is low and swampy, with shallow water extending more than a mile off shore. The Three- well or Cygnet river joins the sea 2| miles from Bear point, it is only navigable for boats at high water. Ancliorage. — There is good anchorage in any part of Western cove except off the red cliffs on the south side, where the bottom is rocky. In the centre of the cove there is a depth of from 5 to 6 fathoms water, gradually shoaling towards the west side. More than 3 fathoms water will be found anywhere to the east- ward of the western sand-hills on the south side ; and there is good See chart, No. 2,389a. Chap, v.] WESTERN COVE. — KINGSCOTE HARBOUR. 313 anchorage in 3 fathoms with these sand-hills, bearing South half a mile distant. Bear point is low and cliffy ; from it, a low and sandy coast leads N. by W. one mile to Kingscote point, and from which a narrow sand-spit extends half a mile in a northerly direction. The land between these points is high, and cultivated on the summit. Bay of Shoals. — From Kingscote point the land trends nearly West, for 3 miles, and then curves round to a low sandy point bearing N.N.W. 2J miles from Kingscote point, enclosing a shallow sheet of water known as the bay of Shoals. This bay is blocked up at its entrance by sand banks, through which there are three narrow channels, the inner parts of which have not more than 3 feet in them at low water. Inside the bay there is a depth of 9 to 10 feet; it is only used by coasters. The COAST, from the low sandy point at the north end of the bay of Shoals, trends North 2 miles to Marsden point, which is 4^ miles N. by W. of Kingscote point. KINGSCOTE HARBOUR.— The eastern sand-bank off the mouth of the bay of Shoals extends to the eastward and southward nearly 4 miles, and forms Kingscote harbour, a sheltered anchorage for vessels under 18 feet draught of water. The outer part of the above sand-spit runs nearly in a straight line S.E. by E. ^ E. 4J miles from the north point of the bay of Shoals, and then S. by W. | W. IJ miles to its south end. The spit then curves back, being more than half a mile wide ; a considerable portion of it is dry at half tide, with two small bushy islets on it ; Busby islet North one mile, and Beatrice islet E. by N. 2 miles, from Kingscote point. The south end of the spit may be rounded near to in 15 feet water, but there are not more than 17 feet south-east IJ miles from the end. Kingrscote, a postal township with telegraph station, has weekly steam communication with Port Adelaide. Jetty. — There is a jetty, 287 feet long, with a depth of 10 feet at the outer end running out from Kingscote point. Ligrllt. — A fixed white light is exhibited from a white wooden house on Kingscote jetty end, visible in clear weather from a distance of 8 miles. &te. chart, No. 2,389«. 314 KANGAROO ISLAND. [Chap. V. Buoys. — A circular bell buoy, with framework and ball, painted red and marked with letter T on each side of frame, is moored in 3^ fathoms at the end of the shoal ; in line with beacons on Bear point, N. 67° W., 4 miles, it marks the direction of the telegraph cable between Kingscote and Yankallila ; and a perch buoy, painted red, is moored in 4 fathoms, with the bell buoy bearing E. by S. 1^ miles. Vessels anchoring to the southward of these buoys, or well to the westward of the bell buoy, will be clear of the telegraph cable. Supplies. — Fish are plentiful off the end of the small spit running north from Kingscote point, and there is a well of good water on the point, a short distance from the beach. Rocket apparatus. — A rocket apparatus is maintained at Kingscote harbour, and in the event of a vessel being stranded near, and the lives of the crew being in danger, assistance will, if possible, be rendered from the shore. Tides and tidal streams. — It is high water, full and change, in Kingscote harbour at 3h. Om. ; springs rise 5 feet. At the anchorage in Kingscote harbour the stream sets North during the rising tide and S.S.E. during the falling tide, half a mile an hour at springs.- North of Kingscote, the tidal streams run through the narrow channels leading into the bay of Shoals, at the rate of 3 or 4 knots an hour. Directions for Kingscote harbour.— Steering for Kingscote harbour from the eastward. Table-topped hill west of Kingscote point will be observed. To enter the harbour, bring a tall clump near the south fall of this hill to bear W. by N. and steer for it until Kingscote point bears N.W. by W. A N.W. by W. course, straight for Kingscote point, will then clear the sand-spit in 3J fathoms ; and lead up to the best anchorage in 3 fathoms, with Bear point bearing S.W. by W. J W. or W.S.W. 7 cables distant. Should the low sandy extreme not be made out, the high steep part of the point may be steered for when on the same bearing, N.W. by W. Small vtssels may bring the south fall of Table hill over the second beach south of Bear point, bearing West, until Beatrice islet is east of North, then steer for Kingscote point. By following See chart, No. 2,889a. Chap, v.] KINGSCOTE HARBOUR.— MARSDBN POINT. 315- these directions a vessel will clear the south end of the spit by nearly 2 cables. A good berth for a small vessel is with the bluff land west of Kingscote point seen over that point, bearing W. by N., and Bear point S.S.W., in 12 or 13 feet water, soft sandy bottom. In rounding Marsden point bound to Kingscote, keep that point bearing west of N.W. ^ W., until the red cliff point in Western cove bears South, to clear the shoal water outside the long sand-spit.. The red cliff point bearing South leads east of the shoal water in 4 fathoms. Attention to the lead and a good look-out from aloft are necessary. Telegrapll cable. — Vessels running into Kingscote harbour for^ shelter, are requested to anchor to the southward or well to the westward of the telegraph buoy, in order to avoid the cable. Two beacons have been erected on Bear point, which, when in line bearing N. 67° W., mark the position of the cable. It is parti- cularly requested that vessels will anchor well to the north or south of this line. Should a vessel anchor near the cable, a square blue flag will be shown from the telegraph station at Kingscote, signifying that her- position must be shifted immediately. MARSDEN POINT is a rocky headland of moderate height r with woody land rising to the westward for half a mile, to a height of 270 feet. A rocky fringe extends from 100 to 200 yards off Marsden point. The point may be rounded at the distance of half a mile, there being 10 fathoms north and 4^ fathoms east of it, a quarter of a mile off. Tidal streams. — East of Marsden point, the stream sets to the westward during the rising tide and to the eastward during the falling tide, nearly 2 knots at springs. In bad weather the streams are very irregular. Anch.orag'e. — There is good anchorage under Marsden point with the wind westward of N.N.W., with the point bearing from N.W. J N. to N.W. i W. distant from a half to one mile, in from 4 to 6 fathoms, with good holding ground, and smooth water out of the tidal stream, :Sro chart, No. 2.389a. ^16 GULF OF ST. VINCENT. [Chap. V. This anchorage is much used by square-rigged vessels • bound through Investigator strait during winter gales. By paying attention to the lead, the bearings of the point, and Kingscote jetty light, it may be taken advantage of by night with nearly the same facility ►as during the day. THE GULF of ST. VINCENT* is formed between the east •coast of Yorke peninsula and the coast extending to the northward from cape Jervis. The breadth of the gulf between that cape and Troubridge hill, which bears N.W. from it, is nearly 34 miles ; and in this space there are regular soundings in 18 to 20 fathoms. The soundings decrease to 12 and 11 fathoms within 4 miles of Troubridge shoals, to the eastward of which in mid-channel are 22 fathoms. The gulf extends nearly 80 miles to the northward, gradually 'decreasing in width to its head. In fine weather small vessels anchor and work cargo off any of the beaches in the gulf, but the coast from cape Jervis to Port Adelaide is exposed to the westward, and a gale from that quarter throws in a heavy sea. Directions. — In entering the gulf of St. Vincent the high range -of hills on its eastern side, extending from the southward to mount Lofty, the northern extremity of some table land, may be seen from a considerable distance. This mount, the highest part of the range, 2,330 feet above the sea, bears N.N.E. J E. 50 miles from cape .Jervis. For 18 miles from cape Jervis the coast is high and bold, thence to the head of the gulf it is very low, with sand hummocks upon it. After passing the high coast land the water shoals some •distance out, and in some places, within 10 miles of Port Adelaide lighthouse, there are 5 fathoms about 4 miles from the beach. Great ; attention must be paid to the soundings, and in running for Port Adelaide it is not desirable to go into less than 6 fathoms, as within .that depth it shoals suddenly. CAPE JERVIS is a high bold headland, having but little vegetation. It is intersected by gullies, and has several cliffy pro- jections, the western and most prominent of which is referred to as the cape ; this does not present so steep a face to the sea as the other projections, but gradually slopes down from the heights 2 miles inland. There is a convenient little boat-harbour within the rocks. See chart, No. 2,389«. * So named by Flinders in honour of the noble Admiral who presided at the -Board of Admiralty, when the Investigator sailed from England. Chap, v.] DIRECTIONS.-— CAPE JERVI3. 317' which extend about 2 cables from the north-west side of the cape \. off which the soundings rapidly increase from 4 to 11 fathoms. . From the cape the coast trends N.N.E. ^ E. G miles to Rapid head. LIGHT. — Cape Jervis lighthouse is 23 feet high, painted white,, and exhibits at 74 feet above the sea a fixed white light, visible from seaward between the bearings of N. 5° W. and S. 22° W.,. which may be seen from a distance of 10 miles in clear weather. Signal and telegraph, station. — There is a signal station at the lighthouse, which is connected by telegraph, and communication can be made by the commercial code of signals. The storm signal is a blue swallow-tailed flag under a red ball. Second valley. — From Rapid head the coast curves East about a mile to Rapid bay, where there is a jetty, 160 feet long, with a depth of 2J feet at its outer end at low water. It then trends N.E. by E. about 2 miles to Second valley, a little cove formed by a slight indentation of the coast, affording to small vessels some pro- tection from southerly winds by a rocky point, on which there is a jetty 105 feet long, with a tramway, and a depth of 6 feet at its outer end at low water. The district is an agricultural one, and coasters carry away the produce. There is deep water close to the rocky point on the western side of this little bight ; but as the anchorage is exposed to winds from ' W.S.W., round by north, to N.N.E. , and a heavy sea sets in on the approach of a westerly gale, coasters should leave this exposed anchorage with the first sign of bad weather. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, in Second valley, at 3h. 20m. ; springs rise 6 feet. YANKALILLA is a township situated on the Bungala river,., 2 miles from the sea, N.E. 6 miles from Second valley, with a population in 1891 of 370 persons. Bungala river intersects a sandy beach extending to Carrickalinga, a bold headland N. by E. | E. . 3 J miles from the river. The jetty is 420 feet long with two cranes on it, but it has only 3 ft. 6 ins. at its outer end at low water. Sound- ings off the jetty decrease from 5 fathoms, on a sandy bottom, at one mile, to 4 fathoms at three-quarters of a mile from the shore ; but the whole extent thence to within a few yards of the beach is one Scr charts, No. 2.389fl and No. 25. 318 GULF OF ST. VINCENT. [Chap. V. mass of rocks. Coasters carry away the agricultural produce of the district, and occasionally large vessels load wheat, wattle bark, &c. Telegrrapll. — There is a telegraph station, and a submarine cable is laid from here to Kingscote, Kangaroo island. Caution. — Vessels are cautioned not to anchor near the line of telegraph cable : in case of a vessel doing so, a square blue flag will be hoisted at the Yankalilla flagstaff, when she must at once weigh, and take up another position. To moor or anchor clear of the cable keep the jetty bearing East to E.S.E. A rocket apparatus in case of shipwreck is kept here. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, at Yankalilla, at '3h. 30m. ; springs rise 6 feet. \ Myponga bay, S.S.W. about 7 miles from Willunga, although -open to winds from North, round by west to S.W., is safe in southerly winds. There is a jetty 360 feet in length, with 7 feet at low water at its outer extremity, and a patch of sunken rocks off it ; the shoalest part with 3 feet water, is 40 yards N.N.E. of the jetty end. Small vessels constructed to take the ground may load at the end -of the jetty, but in no case to a draught of more than 8 feet. Anchorage for large vessels is to the northward of the jetty, there being 3 fathoms at low water within 200 yards of it. Caution. — Masters of vessels should pay great attention to the barometer during the winter season ; and in the event of its falling and the wind drawing to the North or N.W., an offing should be sought without delay, and shelter taken in Eastern cove. Tlie coast from Carrickalinga head trends N.E. by E. 5| miles to the bight of Aldinga bay, and thence N. by W. 4| miles to Snapper point, from which a reef extends more than half a mile in a W.N.W. direction, with its western edge trending nearly parallel with the coast, for fully 2 miles to the southward. Its northern edge extends east to about 1^ cables north of Snapper point, and then rounds into the bight of Willunga bay. See chart, Ko. 2,389a. Chap, v.] MYPONGA BAY.— PORT WILLUNGA. 319 Buoy. — A large red perch buoy, which may be seen at a distance -of 4 miles, has been placed in 12 fathoms water, with Snapper point bearing S.E. by S. distant three quarters of a mile, near the edge of the reef stretching westward from the point. In the event of any accident occurring to the buoy, the reef off Snapper point may be cleared by keeping the inn — which is close to the beach on the north side of the jetty of port Willunga — twice its own breadth open north of the end of the jetty. The buoy is placed inside this line. Willung'a. — The township of Willunga, with a population in 1891 of 532 persons, is situated at the western foot of the hills, about 5 miles eastward of the port. Large quantities of slate are shipped from here. The district is agricultural. There is a jetty 621 feet long, with a crane on it, having 9 ft. 6 ins. at low water, at its outer end. Large vessels at times load wheat, wattle bark, » 2 Willunga or Noar- V.W.P. „ 8 Port Macdonnell. lunga. V.W.Q. „ 9 Port Augusta. V.W.J. 55 3 Yankallila, Second V.W.R. „ Wallaroo or Tipara valley, or Rapid bays. bay. V.W.S. „ 10 Port Lincoln. V.W.K. 5J 4 Kangaroo island. V.W.T. „ 12 Any other part of V.W.L. )? 5 Port Victor, or En- Spencer gulf. counter bay. W.B.C. „ 13 Fowler bay. V.W.M. »> 6 Port Caroline. W.B.D. V „ 14 Streaky bay. Sttc chart, No. 1,760. 330 (;ULF OP ST. VINCENT. [Chap. V. W.B.F. or 15 Flinders island, or W.B.R. Glenelg. westward of Spen- W.B.S. Goolwa. cer gulf. W.B.M. Greytown. W.B.G. „ 16 Yorke peninsula. W.B.T. Minlacowie. W.B.H. „ 17 Any part of gulf of W.B.Y. Moonta. St. Vincent not W.B.L. Port Pirie. enumerated. B.C.D. Port Rickaby W.B.J. „ IS Fishing or whaling B.C.F. Stansbury. voyage. B.C.G. Port Turton. W.B.P. Port Alfred. B.C.H. Port Victoria. W.B.Q. Ardrossan. B.C.J. Port Vincent. W.B.M. Beachport. B.C.K. Eucla. W.B.K. Port Broughton. B.C.L. Venus bay. W.B.N. Edithburgh. Boarding station, jetty, from E. to E.S.E. ; -Bearings of limits, — end of Semaphore Port Adelaide lighthouse, N.N.E. to N.E. Should the Customs boat (showing Customs flag and pendant by day, flash light by night) appear at any other part of the gulf, all ships must heave-to and allow the officer to come alongside, and keep hove-to during the time the officer is on board, or has his permission to proceed. Lefevre peninsula is the tongue of low land, about 7 miles long, north and south, and one broad, between Port Adelaide river and the sea. From Snapper point its uorthern coast trends W. by N. nearly a mile to a low sandy point named Pelican point, and then about S. ^ W. 5 miles to a rounded point known as Malcolm point ; the coast line is beach backed by sand-hills about 40 feet high. Snapper point, a low sandy beach point, forming the north-east corner of a low tongue of land known as Lefevre peninsula, bears S. ^ W., half a mile from the north end of Torrens island. Position. — A cast iron pile with a white top marks the observa- tion spot, which is in lat. 34° 46' 50" S., and has been considered in long. 138^^ 31' 0" E. In 1883, the longitude of this pile was determined by telegraphic observations to be 138° 30' 50", or 9h. 14m. 3'37s. E., considering it 17 •02s. West of Adelaide observatory. iiite chart, No. 1,750. Chap, v.] PORT ADELAIDE. 331 Buoys marking silt discharging ground. To mark the western limit of the discharging ground, two buoys are placed on the west side of the north bank at the entrance to Port Adelaide river. The southern buoy is red, cheese shaped, with staff and ball, and lies in 3^ fathoms, Port Adelaide lighthouse bearing 8. by E. I E. IJ miles. The northern buoy is red, cheese shaped, with framework and ball, and lies in 2 fathoms. Port Adelaide lighthouse bearing S. by E. | E. distant 3^*^ miles. LIGHT. — At the entrance of Port Adelaide river, a revolving white light is exhibited from an iron tower 80 feet above high water ; the light attains its greatest brilliancy ever^y half-minute^ and is visible in clear weather from a distance of 15 miles. The tower is painted red, and built on piles in 7 feet at low water, about 2 cables west of the western point of the southern sand- bank, and is known as Port Adelaide lighthouse. Ligrhts. — Two leading lights, about 340 yards apart, when in line bearing N.E. by E. nearly, are exhibited from beacons at the entrance of the river. The inner is a fixed red light and the outer, on No. 1.2 beacon, 'd. fixed white light. Twelve white lights are exhibited from beacons, Nos. 1 to 12, erected on points of the channel leading to Port Adelaide, and red lights from the Quarantine station jetty, and the jetty to the southward of North arm. The light beacons are wooden piles painted red, and 18 feet above the sea. See footnote page 332. PORT ADELAIDE RIVER.*— The channel of this river from the outer anchorage to the south end of No. 1 quay, Port Adelaide, has been deepened to a depth of 23 feet at ordinary^law water, springs, or 31 feet at high water, for a width of 250 feet. The entrance to the river is marked by two perch buoys, red on the starboard, and black on the port hand in entering, about a quarter of a mile W. by S. \ S. from the lighthouse. This is at the commencement of the outer bar, through which a channel about 1,100 yards in length, and 250 feet wide has been made, the depth 23 feet at low water. To keep in the centre of this channel, bring No. 12 light beacon, and the red leading light beacon in line, bearing N.E. by E. (nearly) * Dredging operations have lately been carried on in this river, full details of which have not yet been received, November 189(5. See chart, Ifo. 1,750. 332 (iULF OP ST. VINCENT. [Chap. V. until 1^ cables past the reflecting beacon, when the cutting will be passed and Lights passage reached. Here the channel widens to between 400 and 500 feet, and retains that width for a distance of about 3,000 yards ; the depth being from 20 to 24 feet at low water. The inner bar is next approached, through which a channel has been dredged 250 feet in width, and 23 feet in depth at low water. In this cutting from No. 8 light beacon the width gradually increases to 600 feet, with not less than 20 feet water, at No. 7 beacon and decreases to 250 feet at No. 6 beacon. Abreast the Coal Shed creek wharf, the depth for 550 feet off it, is not less than 21 feet at low water. From Coal Shed creek wharf to Jervois bridge, the channel varies in width from 300 to 400 feet with a depth of 23 to 20 feet at low water. The widths above mentioned refer to the deep water, the river being much wider. Beacons, Buoys, &C.* — The channel is marked throughout by red buoys, beacons, and light beacons, which exhibit white lights at night, to be left on the starboard hand entering and by black buoys and beacons (the outermost beacon is a reflecting beacon, having a mirror) to be left on the port hand entering. There are two black leading beacons, with V-^tiaped heads, on Torrens island, to indicate the mid-channel course between Nos. 3 and 2 light beacons. Six black cask buoys have been placed on the edge of the bank, where silt has been discharged opposite No. 6 and No. 8 light beacons, on Torrens island side of the river. Small craft should not go within 100 feet of any of these buoys. Six black cross headed beacons have been placed off the north bank between Torrens island and Lights passage, marking the limit of silt deposit. Vessels must not go within the line of these beacons. Torrens island, the north point of which is S.W. by S., one mile from the bathing houses on St. Kilda, is low, about 3 miles long, and IJ broad across the south end, tapering toward the north end. Southward of St. Kilda beach, the coast forms the east side of the channel between Torrens island and the mainland ; this channel * The river is to be lit by electricity ; the positions of some of the beacons are being altered and additional leading lights are being erected (1895-6). aS^!^ chart, No. 1,750. Chap, v.] PORT ADELAIDE RIVER. — TIME BALL. 333 narrows gradually, till at S.S.E. 3| miles from St. Kilda it is only 3 cables across at high water ; it dries at low water springs, and is only used by small boats and barges. On the south side, a narrow channel called the North arm separates Torrens island from the main. The east and south sides of Torrens island are nearly entirely covered with mangroves, as are some parts of the west side. There is also a range of sand-hills in the south-west part of the island. From the north end of Torrens island a sand-spit, drying at low water, extends about 3 miles to the westward in the form of a fish- tail, the north end being W.N.W. 2| miles, and the south end S.W. by W. I W. 2^ miles, from the north end of Torrens island ; a small bank about half a mile long lies southward of the south ex- treme, round the southern end of which is the entrance into Port Adelaide river. Telegrraph. cable. — Two beacons with V-shaped heads, painted green, on the south side of Torrens island mark the direction in which the telegraph cable is laid to the mainland. Anchorage is prohibited within 50 fathoms of the line of beacons. TIME BALL. — The time is shown daily, Sundays excepted, by dropping a ball 5 feet in diameter at the Semaphore, 89 feet above high water, 59 feet above ground and 13 feet drop. The ball is hoisted half way up at Oh. 55m. p.m., close up at Oh. 57m. and dropped at Ih. Om. Os. p.m. standard time of South xlustralia, or 16h. Om. Os. mean time at Greenwich. Should the ball drop before or after the time, it is hoisted again for 10 minutes at Ih. 15m. Os. p.m., then lowered gently, and dropped at 2h. Om. Os. p.m. when practicable. Adelaide observatory is in latitude 34° 55' 33*8' S. and longitude 138° 35' 6" or 9h. 14m. 20-39s. E. This longitude was determined telegraphically in 1883. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, at the Semaphore jetty at 4h. 40m. ; springs rise 7J feet, neaps 4 feet. During the summer months, at springs, it is high water in the morning and low in the afternoon ; at neaps it is low in the morning and high in the afternoon. During the winter months the reverse of this is the case. Westerly winds raise the general level of the water 2 to 3 feet, easterly winds depress it about Ih feet. Sf^t^ chart, No. 1,750. 334 GULF OF ST. VINCENT. [Chap. V. Five days before full and change, the tides cease to flow regularly : there is then a very small rise and fall : the first making tide of Mgh-water generally occurs from one to two o'clock on the following morning ; the tides then run in their usual course to springs. This peculiarity of the tides is experienced in both St. Vincent and Spencer gulfs. It is high water at Semaphore jetty and at Port Adelaide light- house at the same time. With south-easterly winds it is high water at Semaphore jetty 30 minutes before high water at Port Adelaide, and with strong north-westerly winds 90 minutes ; on the average 45 minutes. At Jervois bridge, Port Adelaide, it is high water at 5h. 25m. ; springs rise 8 feet, neaps 4| feet. On the inner bar it is high water at the same time as at Port Adelaide. Tidal streams. — Between Wonga shoal and Port Adelaide light- house, the stream turns to the southward about one hour before high water and to the northward about one hour before low water. The streams inside the lighthouse and up to Port Adelaide turn at high and low water. Between the lighthouse and Snapper point, the stream attains its greatest strength, but seldom exceeds 2 knots an hour. The stream sets strongly into, and out of North arm ; between that and the bridge it seldom exceeds one knot an hour. Tidal Sig'nals. — The following signals are exhibited from the Semaphore pilot station to show the least depth of water in the channel of the Port Adelaide river : — One ball at masthead and one ball at South yardarm -------18 feet water. One ball at masthead and one ball at North yardarm 19 „ Two balls at South yardarm - - - 20 „ North „ ... 21 Ball at South yardarm and South quarter - 22 „ „ North „ North „ - 23 „ Ball at each yardarm 24 „ Two balls at South quarter yardarm - - 25 „ „ North „ „ - - 26 „ One ball at North and South quarter yardarm 27 „ See chart, No. 1,750. Chap, v.] PORT ADELAIDE, TIDES. 335 One ball at North and two balls at South yardarm 28 feet water. Two balls at North and one ball at South yardarm 29 „ Ball at masthead 30 „ One ball at masthead and one at North and South quarter yardarm - - - - 31 „ One ball at masthead and one ball at each yardarm 32 „ One ball at masthead, one ball at South quarter and South yardarm - - - 33 „ One ball at masthead, one ball at North quarter and North yardarm - - - 34 ,, The following symbols denote additional inches over any of the preceding feet, when hoisted on the spare yardarm, excepting the 24 feet signal, when the symbol is hoisted on the quarter. A cone with apex upwards denotes - - - 3 inches. A diamond „ „ „ - - - 6 „ . A cone with apex downwards •• - - - 9 „ In the event of vessels of unusually heavy draught proceeding down the river, the signals will be made until the vessel anchors or passes the lighthouse. Hl^ll water. — A square red flag under the outer ball, exhibited at either yardarm. When, as in the case of the 24 feet signal, balls are hoisted at both yardarms, the flag is hoisted at the mast head. Low water. — A square Mue flag under the outer ball at either yard-arm. Tide gauges showing the depth of water in the channel of the Port Adelaide river have been erected on the Purt Adelaide and the Semaphore jetty lighthouses. Dredger signals. — The following signals are used on board the Government steam dredgers when working at South Australian ports : — 1. Proceed with caution - - By day. — Square blue flag. 2. Leave dredger on starboard / By day. — Red ball. hand entering and port \ By night. — Red light under white hand going out. v light, 2 feet apart. 3. Leave dredger on port hand { By day. — A black diamond shape. entering and starboard \ By night. — Green light under hand going out. ^ white light. See chart, No. 1.750. 336 GULP OF ST. VINCENT. [Chap. V. (By day.— Blue swallow-tailed 4. Accident. — Dredger cannot j flag with white circle. be moved. j By night. — Two red lights ver- ( tical. A white or electric light is also exhibited from the dredger from sunset to sunrise. Steam-tug's of 80 to 120 horsepower can be procured by hoisting the ensign at the fore. Signals. — Vessels' arrival. — Vessels approaching are signalled on the southern flagstaff masthead ; red ball (sail in sight) above code flags, thus : — Ship or barque, B ; brig, C ; schooner, D ; steamer, F ; coasting steamer, G ; inter-colonial steamer, T ; ocean steamers, the house flag ; a blue flag with white B is hoisted above house flag on an ocean steamer passing cape Borda ; South Australian government vessel, union jack over C ; British man-of-war, union jack ; foreign man-of-war, square flag red and white stripes ; storm signal, blue swallow-tailed flag ; pilot wanted, square flag, upper half red, lower white. Compass adjustment.— Five warping buoys are placed in the North arm in 15 feet at low water for swinging ships for compass adjustment. A life-boat is kept at Port Adelaide, to be sent to any part of the coast by steam vessel, should information of a wreck be received in time to render the service of a life-boat available. Winds. — During the summer, and with fine weather in the winter, as a rule the wind blows off the land all night. It veers to the northward about daylight, and either remains or falls calm until the beginning of the rising tide, when the sea breeze comes from the S.W., and veers to the southward and S.S.E. by sunset. The heaviest gales occur in May, June, July, or August. Forty- eight hours is usually the limit they blow from between North and S.W. Sanitary regrulations. — The commander of every vessel arriving at Port Adelaide shall allow no person to leave the vessel, and no goods, personal luggage, or any other thing to be sent from the vessel, the mails only excepted, till he shall have obtained permission to that effect from the health officer or one of his assistants. And no one shall be allowed to go on board except the health officer, his Sea chart, No. 1,750. Chap, v.] PORT ADELAIDE. — PORT OAWLER. 337 assistants, and the pilot, who takes charge, until permission is given by the health officer or his assistants. No pilot shall bring any vessel over the outer bar till the health officer or his assistant has boarded, and given directions how far the vessel may proceed. Vessels are detained below the North arm while in quarantine. Gunpowder regulations. — All vessels arriving in the ports or harbours of South Australia, having gunpowder on board, exceeding the quantity necessary for stores, for their own use, shall hoist the pilot jack at the main ; and no vessel proceeding up the river to Port Adelaide shall pass Lipson reach, North arm, without landing all gunpowder exceeding 30 lbs. Twenty-four hours after anchorage shall be allowed for landing gunpowder at the appointed powder magazines. Gunpowder shall only be landed or removed during such hours as are fixed by the Governor, at the expense of the proprietor or owner ; and all boats used in the conveyance of gunpowder shall be properly housed over and covered with tarpaulins. No iron shall be used in the construction of the barrels or packages, and no package shall contain more than 100 lbs. weight of powder. Moorings. — Two mooring buoys for the use of vessels having explosives on board have been placed on the western side of the cutting in 20 feet at low water, where such vessels must moor head and stern. Their position is nearly north-west from the entrance to the North arm. The buoys are painted red, and serve as guides to the edge of the cutting. PORT GAWLER, formed by low mangrove bushes, lies S.E. J S. 15 miles from Great Sandy point, and N.W. by N. 6 miles from the north end of Lefevre peninsula, and is the mouth of a small river flowing about S.W. by W. 17 miles from the township of Gawler. A line of high trees, apparently marking the course of a creek, stands out above the mangroves south-east of Great Sandy point, their western end lying E. ^ N. 2^ miles from the north end of the man- groves. A large grove of much higher trees gradually rising to the ^centre, appear to the eastward of port Gawler point the apex being E.N.E., 2| miles from the entrance of port Gawler creek. The See chart, No. 1,750. SO 11712 Y 338 GULP OF ST. VINCENT. [Chap. V. entrance is denoted by a black cheese-shaped buoy, and three red beacons. The entrance of port Gawler creek is not easily distinguished from seaward, as the mangroves overlap. It is half a mile south-east from port Gawler point, and about a quarter mile north-west of a sandy beach which shows through the mangroves, being less than 50 yards across, and an ordinary rowing boat cannot cross the flat of sand and mud, which is three-quarters of a mile wide, till half-flood. The first reach is not more than a cable long, running about N. by E.; the creek then turns sharp round to E. by S. On the north side of this reach, and 4 cables from the entrance, is a substantial wharf, 80 feet long, with 3J feet water alongside at low water. A good macadamized road is carried across the mangrove swamps at the back of the wharf to Two-Wells, the nearest township. From port Gawler the coast trends nearly S.E. for 4 miles, and then E.S.E. 2 miles to St. Kilda beach, which has some bathing houses on it. Port Gawler is the only shipping place between Port Adelaide and the head of the gulf of St. Vincent. It is frequented by barges and light draught steam vessels, which take away wheat and farming produce. 'Great Sandy point is low and rounded, with a long spit which dries, at low water springs, 3 miles in a S.W. by W. direction from the point. The land at the back is flat and swampy for a long distance from the beach, the distant hills being too far off to be used as landmarks for a vessel in the fairway of the gulf. A sand-flat extends from 1^ to 2 miles from the beach, outside which the water deepens slowly, the 3-fathoms line being about 3J miles off shore, except off Great Sandy point, where it runs out to a distance of 7^ miles from the point in a W.S.W. direction. LONG SPIT and buoy.— A perch buoy, with ball and cage, painted red, but usually much whitened by sea-birds, is moored in 19 feet water, on the shoalest part of a detached bank, lying off the Long spit extending from Great Sandy point, and 4 miles to the southward of it. From Long spit buoy. Port Adelaide lighthouse bears S.E. by E. J E. 23 miles ; Hummock mount N. | W. About 2 miles W.S.W., and 2^ miles south of the buoy, the water gradually deepens to 5 fathoms. To the northward there are 7 fathoms withia half a mile. The 3-fathoms end of the Long spit bears N. ^ W« 4 milee, and^the 5-fathoms end N.W. by N. 3 miles. See chart, N. See charts, No. 2,152 and No. 2,389«». Chap, v.] PORT WAKEFIELD. 343 course might be continued for 7 or 8 miles beyond Long spit buoy, or until about 3 miles off the west side of the gulf, then run up the coast, keeping about that distance from it. In leaving port Wakefield it is advisable to start in the morning, when the land wind being generally easterly, an of&ng may be obtained without beating out. Coasting vessels in working up or down keep on the east side of the gulf, passing inside Long spit buoy, the water being smooth on that side ; square-rigged vessels should keep on the west side of the gulf when to the northward of Kooley Wurta. In beating up the gulf from Port Adelaide against head winds, make the first board to the westward for about 16 miles, taking care not to go into less than 8 fathoms, so as to avoid Orontes bank. Then endeavour to work between Orontes bank and the flats which front the eastern shore ; and in approaching Long spit care must be taken to sight the buoy, in order to insure being north of Orontes bank. By maintaining a depth of 5 fathoms the edge of the Long spit may be avoided, and the buoy sighted. Being off Long spit buoy, and consequently north of Orontes bank, the western shore may be safely approached, making long boards from 5 fathoms outside Long spit, on the east side, to 1^ or 2 miles off the western shore. Caution. — In thick weather, or in the middle of a summer day, when the sun is ahead, and objects are much affected by refraction, the lead should be in constant use and carefully attended to in going either up or down the gulf. The "Winds during fine summer weather are, from sunrise to about 8 A.M., generally from East to E.S.E. In hot weather the wind in the morning may be from N.E., generally falling calm towards 8 A.M., the sea breeze setting in at about 11, freshens about 5 P.M., and gradually moderates till sunset, when it veers round to the S.E., and dies away towards night. In winter the strongest winds are from the westward. Weather. — The barometer falls rapidly with northerly winds, and a fall generally precedes a change of weather from the westward. See chart, No. 2,389*. 344 GULF OF ST. VINCENT. [Chap. V. In summer, a change often occurs suddenly from the southward, when it blows hard. The WEST SIDE of the GULF of ST. VINCENT.— From Giles point the coast, an unbroken cliff, trends N. by W. ^ W. 3 miles as far as Wool beach, which is about one-third of a mile long, with a high cliffy bank behind it. See page 293. Wool beach. — During the wool season upwards of 2,000 bales of wool are shipped from Pickering into coasters for Port Adelaide. The coasters lie about a half to a quarter of a mile from the beach in 2 fathoms water. A large ship may anchor off Wool beach in 6 fathoms, with the north end of the beach W. by N. 1^^ miles, and Giles point S. by W. ^ W. 3 miles. There is a jetty at the north end of the beach, 510 feet long, with a depth of 7 feet at its outer end at low water, and a black warping buoy is 225 feet off the jetty end in 9 feet water. There are two mails a week from Adelaide to Pickering. Shoal. — A sandy shoal of 2\ to 3 fathoms water, running E.S.E. and W.N.W., about 2 miles long and half a mile broad, lies in front of Wool beach, the north-west part of the shoal, bearing E.N.E. 3 miles from the north end of the beach. There is a depth of 6 fathoms between the shoal and Wool beach ; the water deepens to 4 fcithoms north of the shoal, after which it gradually shoals. The coast between Giles and Oyster points forming Wool bay, presents a line of cliffs from 60 to 90 feet high, till within a mile of Oyster point. The back land is but slightly elevated above the cliffs, and has a flat wooded outline. North of Oyster point the coast again takes a cliffy form, but the cliffs are much lower than those south of the point. Oyster point, N. by E. \ E. 5 J miles from the north end of Wool beach, is low and sandy, jutting out to the eastward about half a mile from the general line of coast. A few settlers have established themselves in the neighbourhood. The point is not easily distin- guished, but its position is marked by some 4 or 5 huts on the grassy slope insidi) it. Stansbury. — A small place in Oyster bay about half a mile from Set chart, No. 2,152, Macdonnell sound and Wool bay, scale m = 1-5 int^hes. Chap, v.] WOOL BAY. — PORT VINCENT. 345 Oyster point. The population was 110 in 1891. There is a jetty 1,000 feet long, with a depth of 5^ feet at its outer end at low water. A channel has been dredged to the jetty, 50 feet wide with a depth of 5 feet at low water. It is a telegraph station, and there are fiix mails a week from Adelaide. South, spit is a long sand-spit drying in patches at low water, running off Oyster point to the north-east, curving to the north, and forming Oyster bay. The end of the spit is N.E. | N., 3 miles from Oyster point. Beacons. — On the north-east edge of South spit in 2 fathoms, are two black beacons, the north beacon square and the south beacon round headed ; the beacons are 830 yards apart ; from the north beacon the township bears S. 46° W. and from the south beacon S. 50° W. 3 miles. Anch-Oragre. — Oyster bay affords good shelter for coasters from all winds in 2 fathoms, with Oyster point S. by W. or S. by W. ^ W., and Beach point W.N.W. to N.W. by W. Beach point, about 2i miles N. | W. from Oyster point, may be known by a short high patch of white sand in a gully, with a small rocky point on its north side ; this point bearing West leads a quarter of a mile north of South spit. Surveyor point, bears N. by E. ^ E. distant 8^ miles from Oyster point ; a sand, named Middle spit, extends off it in a curve to the north-east, about 2^ miles long by half a mile . broad, drying in patches at low water. The coast continues cliffy till within a mile of Surveyor point, with a few houses. A beach extends a mile northward of Surveyor point, when a cliffy coast again commences, and three-quarters of a mile farther is Streak point, so called from a narrow white mark down the face of the cliff. This point bearing W. i S., clears the end of Middle spit in 2 fathoms water. Beacon. — A black beacon with a circular head is on the north end of Middle spit in 2 fathoms at low water. Port Vincent forms a good anchorage for small vessels inside Middle spit, in 2J fathoms water, with Streak point bearing N.W. ^ N., See charts, Nos. 2,389^ and h. 346 GULF OF ST. VINCENT. [Chap. V.- and the first cliff point to the southward, just inside Surveyor pointy bearing S.S.W. ^ W. A third projection of the same nature, North spit, lies N. J W. 4 J miles from Surveyor point. The spit, however,, is smaller, its end being N.E. 1^ miles from the point off which it runs, and the bay formed by it is very shoal. A jetty, 140 feet long,, with a depth of 4^ feet at its end at low water, extends into port Vincent from the north side of Surveyor point. Beacon. — ^A pile beacon surmounted by a black St. Andrew's cross is placed in 8 feet on the north-east end of North spit. This beacon clears the spit leading to what is known as Shea-oak flat. ORONTES BANK.— A large flat with a general depth of 4 fathoms, but having in some parts as little as 9 feet water, extends^ in front of this coast, from Wool beach to Kooley Wurta, for a distance of about 7 miles to seaward, where the water deepens suddenly to 10 or 12 fathoms ; the shoalest part lies E. ^ S., distant 3^ miles from Surveyor point. Its margin can frequently be dis- tinguished in fine weather by the change in the colour of the water ; the bottom, which is weedy, with bare sandy spots, being at times- distinctly visible, and in rough weather by the sea becoming suddenly smooth. Buoy. — A black buoy surmounted by a framework with a ball on top, has been moored on the tongue of Orontes bank in 13 feet water,. E.N.E. 6 miles from Surveyor point. Kooley Wurta, or Black point, is a low beach point, bearing N. ^ E. 9| miles from Surveyor point, with a spit of sand and weed,, which barely dries in patches at low-water springs, extending off the point to the north-eastward. The end of this spit bears N.E. 1^ miles from the point. Beacon. — A black pile beacon with circular head, has been erected" on the north end of the spit running off from Kooley Wurta (Black point), in 8 feet at low water. At a distance of 300 yards north of the beacon th^re is a depth of 12 feet of water. Port Alfred. — The beach trending back W.N.W. 1| miles from the north side of Kooley Wurta forms with the sand-spit a small bay known as port Alfred, affording shelter for small vessels in 2J fathoms water, sand and marl, with Kooley Wurta bearing S.S.E., a gap in the See chart, No. 2,389^*. Chap, v.] ORONTES BANK.— ARDROSSAN. 34T cliff West, and the end of the spit E. by N. ^ N. The land behind is- level and covered with scrub, with one slight rise about 300 feet above the sea ; this rise kept W. | S., or open of the north end of a line of cliffs on the west shore of the port, clears the end of the spit in 3 J fathoms water. A small community has sprung up in the neighbourhood of Kooley Wurta. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, at port Alfred, at 4 h. 37 m. ; springs rise 8 feet, neaps 5 to 6 feet. The COAST between Oyster point and Kooley Wurta is a mixture of low cliffs and sandy beaches, with few prominent marks to which the attention may be directed ; if the sun is not shining on the cliffs the land presents a dark flat outline, gradually rising towards Kooley Wurta. There is a grassy rise, 400 feet high, W. | N.. from Surveyor point, but being more than 7 miles inland it does not appear much higher than the rest of the back land. On a bright forenoon the white sand and limestone spots on Dowcers- bluff, 1^ miles north of Surveyor point, and the two red cliffs, one north and the other south of North spit point, are conspicuous- from about 7 miles off shore. North of Kooley Wurta the coast trends W.N.W. 1| miles, and then North 6 miles ; it is rocky, with red and yellow cliffs and small sandy beaches, and a remarkable red cliff 104 feet high rising near the centre. A sandy, and in some places a rocky flat, drying at low water, extends from 200 to 600 yards in front of the coast. Perara. — Seven miles north of Kooley Wurta a sandy beach succeeds the cliffs for 4 miles, forming two small points, the northern one, on which there are two houses, being called Perara. Here the ridge of high land approaches the coast, the scrub having almost disappeared, and the hills, covered with grass, are about 300 feet high. From Perara the ridge of high land extends about N. ^ E. parallel to and at an average distance of 2 to 3 miles from the coast, forming a level range of scrubby hills about 400 feet above the sea, rising gradually towards mount Hummock. About 1^ miles^ north of Perara the last red cliffs on this part of the coast com- mence ; they are 80 feet high, with a gap at Ardrossan, and the cliffs extend 2 miles in a N.N.E. direction ; the land then becomes very low, with a sandy beach trending N.E. ^ N. 5 miles, when it See chart, No. 2,389/y. 348 GULF OF ST. VINCENT. [Chap. V. 'Curves round to Mangrove point, the western point of entrance to port Wakefield. The land behind and north of the red cliffs is covered with scrub, and when well out in the gulf, a hill, bearing JN.W. by N. 9^ miles from Perara, rises above the nearer land. Ardrossan is a small postal town with a telegraph station. The population was 122 in 1891 ; there are five mails a week from Adelaide. There is a jetty at Ardrossan, 1,420 feet long and with a depth of tO^ feet at its outer end at low water. Ligrht. — A fixed white light is exhibited from a white wooden house on the end of the jetty, it should be seen in clear weather from -Ta distance of 5 miles. Water, &C. — There are wells of good water at Hungry point, ':Surveyor point, and Kooley Wurta, but fresh water is scarce along the coast in summer. Kangaroo abound in the southern part of Yorke peninsula, and fish are plentiful along the coast during certain .seasons. • DIRECTIONS.— From port Wakefield there is no difficulty in proceeding down the gulf if due attention be paid to the lead, and care taken to avoid the shoals on either side. From the Semaphore .anchorage steer S.S.W. (S. 22° W.) until south of Troubridge shoals, •on which course the land on the east side of the gulf will keep in sight, .and the vessel be out of the influence of the tidal stream, which sets .through Backstairs passage. But on no account steer a course under the impression that it will weather the shoals, until far enough to the southward to shape a" course down Investigator strait, as it would expose a vessel's broadside to the rapid tidal stream which sets alirectly upon Troubridge shoals. In moderate weather, by closing the eastern shore at sunset, the wind, which usually blows from the S.E. about that time, is favourable for proceeding down the gulf, being careful not to stand too far off shore until south of Troubridge shoals and well down with cape Jervis. Vessels bound eastward keep as close to the cape as wind and weather will permit, to avoid the west-going stream from Backstairs passage. Sc." chart. No. 2.8S9J. Chap, v.] CAPE JERVIS.— ENCOUNTER BAY. 34^ SOUTH COAST OF AUSTRALIA. From CAPE JERVIS the coast trends E.S.E. 4 miles and" E. by N. 3 miles, and is of a bold and rocky aspect, with high scrubs covered hills, intersected by deep ravines, rising steeply from it, to- Porpoise head. The coast then trends N.E. 2 miles, and E. ^ N.. 7 miles to a bold cliflE point, 3 miles west of which is Tunkalilla beach, upwards of 2 miles in length, and quite inaccessible, from the heavy surf which always rolls in. Newland head, the south-west point of Encounter bay, is a steep cliff, E. ^ N. 5 J miles from the above-mentioned cliff point, and' N.E. i E. 22J miles from cape Willoughby. The coast immediately to the westward trends W. ^ N., and is sandy, with rocky points between the beaches, and high land at the back. There is a range of sand-hills half a mile west of Newland. head, which is of a dark colour. Sounding's. — There are apparently no dangers near the shore- between cape Jervis and Newland head, the soundings being from 9 to 13 fathoms half a mile off the coast, deepening to 15 and' 18 fathoms off the sand-hills west of Newland head ; except off the^- west end of Tunkalilla beach, where the soundings are irregular, with a 7-fathoms rocky patch S.S.W. ^ W. 2} miles from the west end of" the beach. The water gradually deepens to 14 and 18 fathoms. 5 miles off shore. ENCOUNTER BAY* extends from Newland head to Murray river mouth, a distance of 19 miles E.N.E., and is 5 miles deep with 15 to 18 fathoms in the centre, gradually shoaling to the northward. The only anchorage in Encounter bay at present used is at Port Victor, in the north-west part of the bay. The shore of Encounter- bay trends N.E. 5 miles from Newland head to Rosetta head, with a high cliff steep-to for most of the distance, but towards Rosetta head it is low and grassy. West island lies nearly half a mile off a small point, one mile- south-west from Rosetta head. It is three-quarters of a mile in circumference, and 132 feet high, steep-to to seaward ; there is a rocky ledge between it and the shore which generally breaks. * So named in consequence of Flinders in the Investigator meeting here ther. French ship Geographe, See charts, No. 2,389a ftnd No. 25. ■350 CAPE JERVIS TO CAPE OTWAY. [Chap. V. Rosetta head is a grassy mound, 317 feet above high water, ■cliffy to the eastward, and covered with granite boulders. The head is steep-to on its south and east sides, with 12 fathoms water half a mile off. Between Rosetta head and Freeman Nob, which bears N.E. -5 miles from the former, and is the south point of Port Elliot, the coast bights in and forms the anchorages of Rosetta harbour and Port Victor. Rosetta harbour, which is formed by the land trending to the north-west close round Rosetta head, is quite open between S.S.W. and East, and only available for small coasters. It is not used. Seal rock, N.E. by E. ^ E. 2 miles from Rosetta head, is a mass of granite boulders 40 feet high. A reef on which the sea breaks heavily extends nearly 400 yards west of Seal rock. At about 100 yards east of Seal rock is another reef, and at a quarter of a mile from the rock in the same direction is a rock with 26 feet water over it, on which the sea breaks with great violence in bad weather. Wright island is a small islet, about a quarter of a mile in circumference, N. N.E. nearly half a mile from Rosetta head, and the same distance off shore. The sea breaks on a reef which runs off the south side ; the water is shoal inside Wright island, but deep close outside. Granite island, N.E. by N. If miles from Rosetta head, is bare- topped, half a mile east and west, and about a quarter of a mile broad. The summit of the island, which is nearly level, is 113 feet high. Granite boulders are scattered in great numbers over the sides of the island, and a very large one stands upright at the west end. LIGHT. — A lighthouse on the east end of Granite island exhibits, .at 120 feet above the sea, a fixed white light of the 6th order, visible between the bearings of N. 31° E. and S. 59° W. and which should be seen from a distance of 10 miles in clear weather. The lighthouse is a wooden house about 4 feet high, painted white. The limits of this light lead close to the eastward of West island, jand to the southward of Pullen's island. See charts, No. l.OU, cape Jervis to Guichen bay, scale m = 0*25 inch, and _No. 2,493, Ports Victor and Elliot, scale m = 3'0 inches. Chap, v.] GRANITE ISLAND.— PORT VICTOR. 351 Shoal water extends off the low sandy beach between Rosetta head and Granite island to a distance of from one-half to one mile, .and a rocky ledge, with from 17 to 27 feet water, extends from it to .^eal rock ; the shoalest part, 15 feet, is about 3 cables W. by N. of .Seal rock. The sea breaks heavily on this ledge in places during a S.W. gale, and in all the space between Rosetta head and Granite island. There is a passage between Seal rock and Granite island, the depth being from 4^ to 7 fathoms ; but in bad weather, or when the ocean swell rolls in heavily, the sea in some places breaks with great violence. This passage is not recommended, except in fine weather, and with smooth water. Soundlng:s. — Outside Granite island the soundings shoal gradually from 12 to 5 fathoms ; but inside the 5-fathoms line, on its north side, when the east end of the island bears east of South, it shoals rapidly to 3 and 2 fathoms. Anchoragre. — West of Granite island there is a good anchorage, named Davenport, available for moderate-sized vessels. It is, liowever, not recommended, as the approach is indifferent, and Port Victor harbour to the eastward renders the use of Davenport unnecessary. ^ PORT VICTOR, G4 miles southward of Adelaide, had a population of 465 persons in 1891. A jetty, built on a rocky causeway, awash at low-water springs, along which is a railway, connects the mainland with Granite island, from which a causeway projects into 9 feet at low water ; a granite breakwater is carried out from the eastern point of Granite island, in a north-east direction, for 1,000 feet, to a depth of 43 feet at low water ; inside this breakwater is a screw pile jetty, 298 feet long, with 25 J feet water at its outer end, for the accommodation of large wool and other vessels. There is also an old jetty, the outer end of which has recently been removed. Port Victor is connected with Adelaide by railway, via Port Elliot and Goolwa. There is a telegraph station here. Provisions may be obtained at Port Victor. See chart, No. 2,493. 352 CAPE JERVIS TO CAPE OTWAY. [Chap. V. Trade. — The imports consist of, — fencing wire, coal, timber,, potatoes, groceries, ironmongery and general goods used by settlers ; the exports, — wool, copper, bark, wheat, flour, hides, tallow and honey. Beacon. — At the end of the breakwater is a beacon consisting of a tripod surmounted by a white globe. The harbour is situated in the bight between Granite island and Port Elliot to the north-east, the town of Port Victor being built on the low sandy point near Granite island, from which the beach curves round to Freeman Nob. The Hindmarsh river enters the sea three-quarters of a mile to the north, and a small river, the Inman, enters the sea half a mile to the south-west of the point. . The water shoals gradually towards the mainland, but more rapidly towards the rocky coast of Granite island and the reef which connects it with the mainland. A heavy swell sets in at times. This harbour is the shipping port for much of the Murray produce, which comes down to Goolwa, the river Murray port, by steam vessel, and thence to Port Victor by rail. Anchoragre, — The anchorage in Port Victor harbour is not good, the bottom under 5 fathoms being mostly limestone rock, with a thin coating of sand ; but to obviate this objection heavy moorings have been laid down. There are three mooring buoys, in 4, 5, and 6 fathoms; and there are two warping buoys for off chains oH the inner side of the jetty. To moor. — If the moorings be used, the pilot or harbour master - will give the master all necessary information. Ships using the inner and outer moorings are required to take in the mooring chains. Storm signal. — A blue flag is hoisted on the indication of bad weather. DIRECTIONS.— Vessels from the southward, bound to Port Victor, during the prevalence of strong south-westerly winds, are liable to be set to the eastward of their estimated positions. It is, . therefore, desirable to steer direct for Rosetta head, and make this headland, as the coast near it is bold and free from outlying dangers. iSf# chart, No. 2,493. Chap, v.] PORT VICTOR. — PORT ELLIOT. 353 As the swell is generally very heavy on this part of the coast, care should be taken against getting too close in with the land about Rosetta head in moderate or light winds, as the wind sometimes suddenly falls light when the high land is approached. Having closed with the land so as to make out Seal rock, steer so as to pass half a mile to the southward of it, and haul round under its north-east side. Thence steer a N.W. course towards the harbour, within which the mooring buoys will be seen. In rounding the rock during a south-west gale, or a heavy swell succeeding one, keep close (outside), or keep off at least a mile, until it bears W.N.W., then shape a course for the anchorage. At nigrht. — Approaching from the south-west do not steer towards the harbour until Granite island light bears N.W. by W. (N. 56° W.), and by keeping it on that bearing, or to the west of it, pass not less than 3J cables east of Seal rock. But strangers having no pilot on board, should be very cautious in approaching the coast to the eastward of Rosetta head during the night. Rocket Station. — A rocket apparatus is maintained here. Pilots. — ^A pilot can be obtained on hoisting the usual signal when approaching the coast. On a vessel nearing the moorings in Port Victor harbour, the harbour-master will come off and point out the moorings to be taken up. There are no licensed pilots at Port Elliot. It is compulsory to employ a harbour pilot for Port Victor. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, at Port Victor, at 1 h. 9 m. ; springs rise 4:| feet. PORT ELLIOT, N.E. 5 miles from Rosetta head, had a popu- lation of 279 persons in 1891. This town is a favourite resort during the summer months. The port is a small bight on the east side of Freeman Nob, which is 89 feet high, and distinguished by a white obelisk, visible at a distance of 10 miles ; it is only a quarter of a mile across to Commodore point on its north-east side, barely 2 cables in depth, and is now quite deserted by shipping. The Port Victor and Strathalbyn railway runs through the town^ and there is a telegraph station. PuUen's island and a small breakwater off Freeman Nob partially protect the port from the ocean swell, which occasionally breaks See chart, No. 2,493. SO 11712 Z 354 CAPE JERVIS TO CAPE OTWAY. [Chap. V. outside in fine weather, and rolls right in through the southern entrance to the beach. The Twins, a rock nearly awash, lies right in the centre of the southern entrance, which should never be attempted, the northern entrance between Commodore point and the reef off Pollen's island being by far the safest. The depth of water in the port is from 12 to 15 feet, rapidly increasing outside Pullen's island to 6 and 8 fathoms. Pullen's island lies a quarter of a mile E. by S. from Freeman Nob ; it is a mass of granite boulders, 20 feet high, about 350 yards long east and west, and 150 yards broad. A reef of rocks extends towards the port 400 yards in a north-westerly direction. THE COAST from Commodore point trends N.E. i N. for half a mile to a low stony point, to the northward of which the beach makes a small shallow bight ; E.S.E. about 2 cables from this point lies the Frenchman rock awash ; north-west from Frenchman rock foul rocky ground extends to the beach, which trends N.E. one mile to Middleton, where there is a rocky point. The beach then trends E. by S. ^ S. 9^ miles to Murray river mouth, backed by bushy sand- hills about 80 feet high, gradually falling to the eastward until within a mile of the Murray mouth, the west point of which is a flat of white bare sand. Aspect. — The appearance of the land at the back of Port Victor and Port Elliot is that of gently sloping hills, rising to a height of 500 to 900 feet about 2 miles inland, with wooded summits and cultivated sides, broken north of Port Victor by the gap formed by Hindmarsh river as it flows towards the sea. SEA MOUTH Of MURRAY RIVER.— The sea mouth of Murray river is a narrow opening in the beach, it may be recognised by Barker's knoll, about 70 feet high, and the first bare sand-hill of any elevation or extent eastward of the high land of Encounter bay ; the west side of the opening is low and flat. The surf usually breaks heavily across the mouth of the river, off Kingston. From the southward or westward. — In rounding Margaret Brock reef do not shoal the water to less than 15 fathoms ; this depth is rather more than 2 miles to seaward of any part of the «hoal. With the lighthouse bearing East, distant 3 miles, steer N.N.E. (N. 22° E.) until the lighthouse bears S.S.E. | E. (S. 31° E.). "The north extreme of the reef will then bear S.E. by E. ^ E. (S. 62° E.) 2 miles, and the course thence to the anchorage off Kingston, is N.E. by E. J E. (N. 59° E.) 13 miles. From Lacepede bay to Backstairs passage. — Steer a N.W. by W. J W. (N. 62° W.) course for cape Willoughby from the anchorage off Kingston. To the southward. — From the outer anchorage near Kings- ton steer S.W. by W. i W. (S. 62° W.) 14 miles, or until the light- house bears S.E. (S. 45° E.) distant 4 miles, then South 7 miles, when the south extreme of Margaret Brock reef will bear E. by N. ^ N. (N. 73° E.) 3 miles, and the course may be altered to the south-eastward. In working in or out of the bay the lead and chart are the best /guides. Tidal stream. — There is no tidal stream in Lacepede bay, but both inside and outside Margaret Brock reef there is a strong northerly set after easterly winds. Boatswain point, S.E. by S. 8 miles from cape Jaffa, is the north point of Guichen bay. There are some sand-hills 74 feet high close to the point, and the coast between it and cape Jaffa is low. Sand-hills attaining a height of 73 feet commence at cape Jaffa and continue for 3 miles to the south-east, there is then only a low bank as far as Boatswain point. The wooded range which rises at cape Jaffa is seen at the back, and passes 3 miles east of Boatswain point. This part of the coast should not be approached ; rocks and foul ground extend off it generally for a distance of 2 miles. See chart, No. 1,006. Ohap. v.] CAPE DGMBBY. 367 Caution. — Mariners approaching this part of the coast should do so with caution, and be careful to ascertain their position before attempting to pass cape Jaffa, as the current sets round it to the north-eastward, and has a tendency to draw vessels towards Margaret Brock reef. Baudin rocks are a rugged and broken group stretching half a mile north and south ; the highest, 30 feet, being S.W. ^ S. about H miles from Boatswain point. There is a narrow channel between the rocks and the point with more than 2 fathoms water in it, but the ground is foul. Black Pigrs, S. by W. ^ W., 2 miles from Boatswain point, and 7 cables S.S.E. from the South Baudin rock, are awash at half tide. A rocky reef with 2f fathoms on its extreme, extends half a mile towards them from the Baudin rocks, leaving a 4-fathoms channel 1^ cables in width between. There are 4 fathoms water at 2 cables south-west of the Black Pigs, and 6 to 8 fathoms close to the south and east of them. Snewin rock is of small extent, with 26 feet least water over it, :S. by W. ^ W. 1| miles from the Black Pigs, and N.W. J W. nearly . 2|- miles from the obelisk on cape Dombey, having 8 to 10 fathoms all round, and 15 fathoms a quarter of a mile west. It lies right in the mouth of Guichen bay, and only breaks when there is a high westerly swell, then seldom, but very heavily. Clearing" mark. — One Tree hill beacon in line with Robe light- house bearing S.E. (S. 45° E.) leads southward of the Black Pigs and northward of Snewin rock and South reef. CAPE DOMBEY, the southern point of Guichen bay, is S. i E. 5 miles from Boatswain point, and may be easily distinguished by an obelisk, painted in red and white bands, on its west point. ' The top of the obelisk is 76 feet above the sea. South reef, composed of rocks awash with 2 to 3 fathoms water between, extends N.W. by N. more than half a mile from the north point of cape Dombey. The sea nearly always breaks on it, and as the ocean swell sets towards it, the reef should be carefully avoided. There is a boat channel with 3J fathoms between it and the cape, ;.and 5 to 6 fathoms all round elsewhere. See chart, No. 1,006, Guichen bay, scale m = 2*0 inches. 308 CAPE JBRVIS TO CAPE OTWAY. [Chap. V. GUICHEN BAY, included between Boatswain point and cape- Dombey, is 2J miles in depth with soundings of 4 to 6 fathoms all over it. There is a rocky point E. by S. ^ S. three-quarters of a mile from Boatswain point, from which a sandy beach with a low bank behind runs to the southward for 6 miles, the coast then takes a westerly direction for 2 miles to cape Dombey, being composed of rocky points and sandy bays, with rocks uncovered at low water extending a short distance off. A wooded range about 200 feet high and 4 miles inland, is seen to the east of the bay. Ligrht. — A small lighthouse, painted white, on the first rocky point eastward of Robe jetty, exhibits a fixed white light, with a red sector showing over Snewin rock. South reef, and the rocks north- eastward of cape Dombey, which may be seen from a distance of 5 miles in clear weather. Beacon. — A beacon, with a square top, 25 feet high and painted red, has been placed on One Tree hill, situated S.E. (S. 45° E.) distant \-^^ miles from the above lighthouse. Robe township is three-quarters of a mile south-east of cape Dombey ; a jetty 1,122 feet long, with a rocky reef west of it, and 11 feet at the end of its east side runs out from the town. There are two cranes on the jetty. "Vessels cannot go alongside, but boats can generally load at it. There are moorings in 3 fathoms, off the jetty, , for the steam vessel calling here weekly between Adelaide and Melbourne, by which means the principal part of the trade is carried on. There is a telegraph station at Robe town, and there are six mails a week from Adelaide. The population in 1891, was 134. The climate is considered salubrious. A life -boat is attached to the port ; and a rocket apparatus^ for saving life from wrecked vessels is maintained at cape Dombey. Supplies. — Fresh water and provisions may be obtained. MeteorolOgrical observations.— In 1890 the mean height of the barometer at Robe was 29*99 inches, the maximum 30*58 inches • in July and the minimum 29*28 inches in October. The mean temperature for the year was 59°*6 Fahr., the maximum 97°-2 in January and the minimum 35°*5 in July. See chart, No. 1,006. Ohap. v.] GUICHEN BAY. — ROBE. 369 The rainfall for the year was 24*97 inches, falling on 164 days. The mean annual rainfall for 29 years was 24*66 inches, the greatest 'being 33*17 inches in 1861 and the least 17*21 in 1877. DIRECTIONS.— From the northward, having passed Margaret Brock reef, do not bring the lighthouse on it north of N. by E. until the northern wooded hill near cape Jaffa bears E.N.E. Then steer S.E. by E. ^ E. (S. 62° E.) until the beacon »on One Tree hill, which is the north-western summit of a low range 120 feet high, and 2 miles S.E. by E. from cape Dombey, is in line with the lighthouse on the first rocky point east •of Robe jetty, bearing S.E. (S. 45° E.). This leading mark 'dears the Black Pigs, Snewin rock, and South reef ; passing one mile south-west of the first, and half a mile north-east of the second -xianger. It should be kept on until cape Dombey bears South, which leads a quarter of a mile to the north-east of South reef ; then steer .S.E. by E. i E. (S. 62° E.), or for the south end of the long sandy tfceach at the east side of the bay, for the anchorage. From the southward, do not approach within 2 miles of the -coast until cape Dombey bears E.N.E. From the position with the cape on that bearing and distance, steer N.E. by N. (N. 34° E.) until the leading mark given above is on, then proceed as before. The leading mark given is the only practicable one for clearing the dangers about the bay. When working" in or out, bearings of the points are the best guides for clearing the rocks and shoals. Bound northward, steer out with the leading mark on until the Baudin rocks bear East, then haul to the westward, as the previous course N.W. (N. 45° W.) leads directly on to the south breaker of the Margaret Brock reef. If bound to the southward, keep the leading mark on until the obelisk bears S.S.E., then steer S.W. (S. 45° W.) until sufficient ^-distance off-shore to alter course to the south-eastward. At night. — Great care is required in entering Guichen bay ^i night. Anchorage. — The anchorage is in 4 fathoms water, fine sand, with cape Dombey W. by S. ^ S., and Robe lighthouse S. by E. ^ E. During the first five months of the year when south-easterly winds prevail it is safe to anchor in Guichen bay; with north- we&t and See chart, Nd. 1,006. SO 11712 2 A 370 CAPE JERVIS TO CAPE OTWAY. [Chap. V^ westerly winds, the season for which is from June to December, the anchorage is unsafe. Vessels should proceed to sea in time on the approach of a N.W. gale, of which the barometer usually gives ample warning : they sometimes occur in the early part of the year. A good scope of chain should be veered on anchoring, and a second anchor be ready to let go in the event of bad weather. Small vessels, in the winter season, should not anchor too close to a rocky point at the eastern end of the town, as, in the event of its being necessary to veer cable, such a position might be incon- venient. Storm signal. — A blue flag is hoisted on the indication of bad weather. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, at Guichen bay at h. 37 m. ; springs rise 4 feet. The COAST from cape Dombey takes a southerly direction for one mile to cape Lannes, a point with some rocks above water off it, and a reef running out one mile to the westward. From this point the coast trends to the south-east in an almost straight line to Rivoli bay. Bishop's Pate, 110 feet high, is a round bare sand-hill near the. coast, 5 miles S.E. from cape Dombey. Rabelais peak is a pointed and conspicuous sand-hill, 157 feet high, close to the coast, 11 miles from cape Dombey. The coast between the peak and the cape is alternate rocky points and sandy bays, with sand-hills somewhat over 100 feet high behind ; rocks uncovered at low water, and isolated patches always covered, extend from a quarter to one mile off it. The sea breaks heavily on the rocks and beaches ; landing is impossible. Nora Creina bay is a small opening in the coast under Rabelais peak ; a boat may go inside where there is landing, but the attempt to get in is generally attended with danger, as it sometimes breaks, right across the entrance of the bay. Cape Martin, 82 feet high, the north-west point of Rivoli bay, is S.E. ^ S. 24 miles from cape Dombey. The features of the coast are the same as between cape Dombey and Rabelais peak. From Nora jpreina bay a reef runs nearly parallel to the coast for 6 miles to the S«e charts, No. 1,006 and No. 1,015, Guichen bay to Glenelg river, scale m. = 025 inch. Chap, v.] CAPE MARTIN. — RIVOLI BAY. 371 south-east, its greatest distance from the beach being 1^ miles, which is at its south-east end. For 3 miles south of this and to a distance of 3 miles off-shore there are very irregular soundings, from 5 to 12 fathoms, causing high rollers and overfalls when the swell is heavy. Above the beach at the point where the reef ends are a number of bare sand-hills, the highest 108 feet, conspicuous from the southward. Between these hills and cape Martin the sand-hills are somewhat higher and not so bare. There is a green point 5 miles north-west from cape Martin, with a wooded hill 153 feet high at tlie back. From this point to cape Martin the coast is more cliffy, with foul ground, on which the sea generally breaks, extending off to an average distance of one mile. Caution. — Do not shoal the water to less than 20 fathoms at night between Guichen and Hivoli bays ; this will ensure being at least 5 miles off shore. The average depth at 2 miles from the shore is 12 fathoms, this is close to danger. Inland hills. — A wooded range, which may be seen above the sand-hills from a greater distance than 5 miles off the land, runs parallel to the coast. The highest part of the range, a hill elevated 252 feet, is N.E. by E. J E. 5 miles from Rabelais peak. Salt lakes. — Between the range and the coast sand-hills, and extending from Guichen bay to Rivoli bay, are four large salt lakes» varying from 2 to 18 feet in depth ; the bottom is limestone under soft white clay, the latter sometimes 2 feet thick. During the earlj- part of the year they are frequented by great numbers of black swan, mountain duck, and seals. Kangaroos are very numerous on the sand-hills between the lakes and the sea. Lake George, at the north end of Rivoli bay, approaches within 300 yards of the coast. Eastward of lake George, and close to the beach, are a range of sand-hummocks, 60 feet high. RIVOLI BAY is an indentation near the middle of the sandy coast extending from cape Lannes, Guichen bay, to cape Banks. The sameness in character of the coast features, north and south of Rivoli bay. Is such that when seen from an offing there is difficulty in making the anchorage unless certain of the latitude. See charts, No. 1,015 and No. 1,007, Rivoli baj, scale w = 20 inches. SO 11712 2 A 2 372 CAPE JERVIS TO CAPE OTWAY. [Chap. V. Landing is safe and easy on the beach north of Glen point to within 200 yards of the fence. A well of good water may be found about 200 yards north-west of Glen point, and about 50 yards from the beach. The south end of Rivoli bay has been selected for the site of a small township, Grey town. At present few people reside here. They live in tents and temporary huts near the beacJi, and are engaged in collecting and carting wattle bark from the interior. The only conspicuous house is built on some rising ground near the end of the beach. Extensive drainage works have been undertaken to the south-east of Rivoli bay, and the produce of the drained land will most likely be shipped from Grey town. From cape Martin, cape Buffon, the south-east point of Rivoli bay, bears S.E. by E., distant nearly 6 miles ; the depth of the bay from this line of bearing being about 2 miles near the north and 1^ miles near the south end. Sounding's outside Rivoli bay, and from 4 to 5 miles off shore, ■3 20 fathoms rocky bottom, with occasional broken shells. Pengruin islet, close to the south-east of cape Martin, is a small rocky islet, extending N. W. and S.E. nearly a quarter of a mile, with an average width of 150 yards ; it is 54 feet high at its north-west end, near which it is perpendicularly cleft down to the water's edge. This cleft is open to the east and west, and is a good mark for making cape Martin. LIGHT. — From a white stone tower, 28 feet high, on Penguin islet, a flashing white light showing a flash every ten seconds is exhibited at an elevation of 80 feet above high water, which should be visible from a distance of 12 miles in clear weather. The keepers' dwellings are painted white. Signal station. — There is a signal station at the lighthouse, and communication can be made by the commercial code, but it is not connected by telegraph. Glen point. — Inside Penguin islet the coast trends to the north- ward, and forms a small sandy bay, which is shoal with rocky &Jd charts, No. 1,015 and No.-], 007. Chap, v.] RIVOLI BAY.— BEACHPORT. 373 patches. The north point of this bay, Glen point, is rocky, and bears North 6 cables from the south end of Penguin islet. From Glen point the beach extends in front of Beachport nearly three-quarters of a mile to the northward, and then trends east and south-east 7 miles, thence curving south-westward about 2 miles ; this part, with cape Buffon, forming the south end of Rivoli bay. A large rock awash, lies N. by E. ^ E. 4 cables from the south point of Penguin islet, and 2 cables S.S.E. of Glen point, with rocky ground, extending 400 yards to the eastward of Glen point. Several rocks skirt the south point of Penguin islet, and with a heavy swell the sea breaks in 5 fathoms water a cable S.E. by E. of the point. Buoy. — A black buoy with a staff and ball is moored in 16 feet off Glen point, with the point bearing N. 04° W., and the south end of Penguin island S. 36° W. Beachport is pleasantly situated in the north-west part of Rivoli bay on elevated ground. It was only founded in 1878, and has made rapid progress, being the outlet for the produce of a large district. The population was 179 in 1891. There is a railway to mount Gambler, and thence via Naracoorte to Wolseley on the line from Adelaide to Melbourne ; there are three mails a week from Adelaide and it is also a telegraph station. An iron jetty, 2,563 feet in length, with a depth of 16^ feet at its outer end at low water, runs off from the northern part of the town, and four buoys for hauling-oft' purposes are placed on its north side. LIGHT. — A. fixed red light is shown from a white wooden house at the outer end of the jetty, 15 feet above high water ; it may be seen from a distance of 5 miles in clear weather. Signals. — A black ball hoisted during the day, and a fixed white light exhibited at night, at the mast head of the flagstaff adjacent to the harbour master's residence at Beachport, denotes that stfcam and sailing vessels must not come to the jetty. Lifeboat. — A lifeboat with crew is stationed here. CAPE BUFFON is cliffy, 35 feet high, projecting about half a mile to the north-west. The coast south of cape Buffon is rugged See chart, No. 1,007. 374 CAPE JBRVIS TO CAPE OTWAY. [Chap. V and broken for nearly 4 miles, with many outlying rocks, and backed by sandy hills covered with scrub. The bare sand is not so con- spicuous from seaward as at the north-west end of the bay. The land rises gradually from cape Buffon, and at 3 miles from the cape attains a height of 200 feet. A range of low wooded hills runs parallel to the coast from 2 to 3 miles back from the beach, rising to a height of from 150 to 180 feet. Between this range and the beach the land is low and sandy, with swamps near the hills. Lake Frome, the waters of which are fresh, lies about one mile east of the south end of Rivoli bay. Fresh-water swamps extend from it towards the beach nearly half a mile. Ring*W00d reef. — The central part of Rivoli bay is dangerous to navigation from the numerous reefs and rocky patches. The outer reef, Ringwood, lies a mile outside the line joining cape Martin and cape Buffon. It extends east and west one mile, and north and south 400 yards ; the eastern end is thickly covered with long kelp. Some part of this reef always breaks. The western edge, in 3 fathoms, lies 2 miles nearly S.S.E. from Penguin islet, and W. by N. ^ N. 4^ miles from cape Buffon. During bad weather it breaks in 5 fathoms water about 100 yards west of the reef. Ringwood reef is detached from the mass of rocks and reefs lying inside it by a channel with from .5 to 8 fathoms water. Its west and south-west sides shoal suddenly from 7 and 8 fathoms, which is the general depth across to cape Buffon. Glen point in line with Penguin islet bearing North leads outside Ringwood reef in 9 or 10 fathoms, and cape Buffon bearing E. by S. clears this danger to the southward. Lipson rock lies S.E. by E. ^ E. IJ miles from Penguin islet, and is just awash at high water ; it extends about 250 yards north- east and south-west with a breadth of about 100 yards. The ground is foul and rocky with from 9 to 18 feet water for one-third of a mile to the north-west, and one mile S. by E. from Lipson rock ; in the finest weather there is a break on the south-west side of the rock, and, with the ordinary swell, breakers extend over the foul rocky ground in from 9 to 18 feet water. West rock is the outer danger on the south side of the channel See chart, No. 1,007. CJhap. v.] RIVOLI BAY. 375 leading to the anchorage off Beachport ; it is of small extent, with 17 feet water on it, breaks heavily at times, and lies North nearly one mile from the west end of Ringwood reef, and S.E. by S., 1^ miles from Penguin islet. A small rocky patch, with 4^ fathoms on it, lies 2 cables North of West rock, and breaks at times with a heavy swell, when also breakers extend from West rock to Lipson rock. De Mole reef lies in the north part of Rivoli bay, E.N.E. one mile from the south point of Penguin islet, and N. by W. ^ W. a little over one mile from Lipson rock. This reef has 15 feet over it, with 1 fathoms, sand, close to its south-west side. North-east of De Mole reef are some straggling rocky patches, with from 16 to 18 feet. The sea breaks in a moderate swell on De Mole reef and the adjacent patches, and in a south-west gale or heavy swell, breakers extend from De Mole reef to the beach. Nortliern anclioragre. — In the entrance to the northern anch6r- age of Rivoli bay the soundings are from 11 to 8 fathoms, with Penguin islet bearing N.E. about one mile ; and 8 to 6 fathoms, with the islet bearing N.W. ; betw^een the islet and De Mole reef the water suddenly shoals to 4 fathoms, when the south-east point of ihe islet bears W. by S. ^ S., and 2 cables farther north to 3 fathoms, which is the greatest depth between Glen point and the shoal water N.W. of De Mole reef. During a heavy swell, with a strong breeze from south-west to •south-east, the whole of the space included between Penguin islet, Glen point, and De Mole reef, breaks in detached patches, and in a gale, continuously. When Glen point bears south of W. by S. distant about half a mile, the depth increases to 3^ and 4 fathoms ; but this patch of compara- tively deep water is small ; only about 800 yards north and south and 400 yards east and west, with 17 feet water to the eastward, and .Bhoaling gradually to 9 feet about 300 yards from the beach, inside which the soundings are irregular. This anchorage is safe for a limited number of vessels, drawing less than 15 feet, with Glen point bearing south of W.S.W., and the fiouth point of Penguin islet bearing south of S.S.W. ^ W. Here the Bea never breaks, and the bottom, firm, white, marl-like clay, is good holding ground. 376 CAPE JERVIS TO CAPE OTWAY. [Chap. V.. Sherbert rock, lying E. by S. ^ S. 1^ miles from Lipson rock,, and S.S.W. IJ miles from the nearest part of the beach, is a smalt heap of stones, 6 feet above high water, in the middle of a rocky patch which is awash, about 150 yards long by 100 yards broad ;- this again is surrounded by a large rocky shoal, extending one-third of a mile north-eastward, and half a mile southward of the rock. There is a small rocky patch of 3 fathoms, which does not break, . midway between Sherbert rock and the beach. There are also six rocky patches, of about 3 fathoms, lying between S. by E. and S.E. by E. of Sherbert rock. The southern ones extend IJ miles, and the south-eastern ones If miles from the rock. The line of shoals S.S.E. from Sherbert rock break heavily with, an ordinary swell, and those S.E. from it only at times with a heavy swell. - There is a 2-fathoms rocky patch, rather more than half a mile S.W. by W. of Sherbert rock, which breaks in ordinary weather. Also two 15-feet patches, one 6 cables N.W. | N., the other N.W. ^ W. 1^ miles from Sherbert rock. These patches each extend 3 cables, and do not break in fine weather, being protected by the shoal water round Lipson rock. Kelp. — From Ringwood reef to near cape Buff on the bay is strewn with a growth of long kelp, which reaches the surface from a depth of 9 or 10 fathoms. The Beak is a dangerous reef lying off cape Buff on, on which the sea breaks heavily. The north-west and outer end of it is S.W. three-quarters of a mile from cape Buffon. The line of breakers extends nearly half a mile parallel to the coast in fine weather, and v/ith a heavy swell extends right along the rocky coast to the south- east, about 6 cables off shore. There is a patch of from 4| to 5 fathoms and 400 yards across, . lying W. by S. If miles from cape Buffon, which breaks heavily, at. times. Between this patch and the Beak reef is the best channel" into Rivoli bay during rough weather. Shoal water extends nearly 2 cables to the northward of cape Buffon, for a mile to the eastward of it, and the same distance north of the west end of the beach. The general depth outside this shoal water is 15 feet to half a mile off shore, outside which the water deepens quickly to 3^ and 4 fathoms. pi ' ■ ; ' ~~ Sea chart, No. 1,007. Chap, v.] RIVOLI BAY, REEFS, DIRECTIONS. 371' The SOUtliern anchoragre in Rivoli bay is sheltered by the land from North round by east and south to S.W. From North to W.N.W. it has the partial shelter of the distant north end of the bay and the outer reefs, but between W.N.W. and S.W. by W. it is entirely open to the ocean swell. In fine weather, or off-shore winds, this anchorage is comparatively smooth, the prevailing south- west swell being broken by the Beak reef, and by the shoal water off cape Buff on. During summer months, when strong south and south-east winds blow for weeks together, this anchorage is smoother than the northern one. DIRECTIONS for the northern anchorage.— Approaching the northern anchorage, bring the south-east point of Penguin islet to bear N.E. and when it is distant about 2 miles steer N.E. by E. ^ E.. (N. 62° E.), or so as to give the point a berth of about half a mile. Gradually haul to the northward and leave the buoy off Glen point on the port hand at a distance of 2 cables. At nigrht. — After passing Penguin island at the distance of about half a mile, keep to the north-eastward, and when the jetty red. light bears N.W. by N. (N. 34° W.), steer towards it. The best anchoring position for vessels drawing over 12 feet is. Glen point in line with a low gap in the sandy bay north of cape Martin, bearing S.W., and about a quarter of a mile off the end of the jetty, in from 3 to 4 fathoms, marl. The depth alters quickly. For working* in, no good directions can be given, the chart,. lead, and look-out being the best guides. To navigate the bay inside the reefs, keep parallel to the> coast and about three-quarters of a mile off shore. If coming from seaward past cape Martin to run down inside the reefs, bring the south-east point of Penguin islet to bear W. ^ S. (S. 84° W.),. and steer E. ^ N. (N. 84° E.), passing 2 cables south of De Mole reef, in 5^ fathoms. When Sherbert rock bears S.S.E. keep parallel to the coast. Working inside the reefs, it is best to make short tacks within a mile of the beach, which can be approached to one-third of a mile in 3 or 4 fathoms, except to the northward of De Mole reef, where a, long tongue of rocky ground stretches out towards the reef. See •hart, No. 1,007. 378 CAPE JERVIS TO CAPE OTWAY. [Chap. V. The long stretch of beach between the north and south ends of the bay has much surf on it, extending fully a quarter of a mile off. For tlie southern anchorag'e. — The best course is to bring cape Buffon to bear N.E. or N.E. ^ E., and steer for it until 2 miles off ; then haul a point to the northward, passing west one-third of a mile from the Beak, in 9 fathoms, and rather more from cape Buffon. When the end of the beach bears S.E. steer East for the anchorage. The best anchorage is with cape Buffon bearing S.W., distant half :a mile, and the house in line with the left fall of a bluff wooded sand-hill, bearing S. by E., in 3} fathoms water, marl. The holding ground here seems as good as at the north end of the bay. Small vvessels anchor in 2| fathoms, with the cape bearing W.S.W., and the house S. by E. There is no surf at the west end of the beach, the approach being shallow ; and the landing is good for more than a quarter of a mile along the beach. In a gale from West to W.S.W. the swell rolls directly into the : southern anchorage. A vessel caught at anchor in one of these gales must remain and trust to her ground tackle, as the sea breaks in heavy rollers across the entrance. In the event of the weather and the barometer indicating the approach of a westerly gale, it is advisable to get under way and make for the northern end of the bay. These gales are uncertain, but are not likely to occur in the summer. The southern anchorage, though not so safe as the northern, is -easier to approach, and can be used by vessels of greater draught of water. Current. — In the south end of the bay there is little or no current; but at the north end of the bay a set to the southward, of about half a knot an hour, is experienced at times. Outside the bay the current seems to be influenced by the wind, setting strong to the southward during and after strong north or north-west winds, and vice versa. - TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, at Glen point at h. 33 m. The spring tides rise 4 feet in fine weather, but the height is influenced by the wind. The time of high water at neaps See chart, No. 1,007. Ohap. v.] RIVOLI BAY. — CARPENTER ROCKS. 379 and height oJ: the tide at that period are uncertain, there Jbeing only one tide every twenty-four hours for several days. The COAST. — Between Rivoli bay and Carpenter rocks the -coast is nearly straight. From cape Buff on to 4 miles south of it, the hills above the coast are wooded and attain a height of 197 feet. South-east of this, the coast hills are sandy and of less elevation; the most conspicuous is a sand-hill 145 feet high, 9J miles from cape Buff on. From cape Buff on the coast is cliffy for 5 miles to the south-east, with rocks uncovered at low water extending off a quarter of a mile, except the Beak, which extends oft' three-quarters of a mile. There is then a sandy beach for 8 miles, which is steep-to, with the -exception of a rocky patch with less than one fathom water on it, lying S.E. by S. 1^ miles from the north end of the beach, and half a mile off shore. From the south end of this beach to the Carpenter rocks, 11 miles, the coast is sandy, with here and there rocks above water a short distance off ; a reef, on which the swell breaks, fronts the beach for the whole of this* distance ; N.W. by W. 2 miles from the Carpenter rocks, it extends as far as one mile off shore. Inland hills. — The best way to obtain the position off this •coast is by bearings of the following hills, which stand up boldly from the low surrounding country, and are visible above the coast sand-hills from a greater distance than about 3 miles off the land. Their bearings and distances from cape Buffon are as follows: — mount Muirhead, 492 feet high, which stands by itself, E. | N. 14 miles ; mount Burr, 802 feet high. East 17 J miles ; mount Lookout, 709 feet high E. by S. ^ S. 21 miles ; and the Bluff, 703 feet high, which has a very steep fall on its southern side, E. by S. ^ S. 24 miles. The lasf three occupy respectively the north, centre, and south parts of a connected range . Caution. — Special care and attention is required to the navigation .along the coast between capes Martin and Northumberland, the prevailing winds being from the S.W. A continual swell sets on the coast, which, together with an uneven bottom, produces such an irregular sea, that in the event of a vessel being obliged to carry sail to get off the land, the wear and tear would be excessive. Carpenter rocks are two black rocks above water, a short distance off a point S.E. ^ S. 23^ miles from cape Buffon. See chart No. 1 016. 380 CAPE JERVLS TO CAPE OT WAY. [Chap. V. . CAPE BANKS is a rockj- point 50 feet high, S.E. IJ miles from the Carpenter rocks. Between the rocks and the cape is a little baj^,. with a reef across the entrance, and one off the beach in it. There is a sand-hill 125 feet high at the back of the bay. S. by E. rather more than 2| miles from cape Banks is a rock with 5 fathoms water- on it, which breaks heavily with a high south-westerly swell ; there are 15 fathoms close to seaward, and 6 to 7 inside. LIGHT. — A lighthouse, a white stone tower 25 feet high, is situated on Carpenter rocks point, near cape Banks, and adjacent to Carpenter rocks ; it exhibits at 92 feet above high water, a. revolving light of the second order, showing alternately one red and two white lights at intervals of tiventy seconds each. The white light should be seen from a distance of about 10 miles, and the red light from 8 miles in clear weather. Signal station. — There is a signal station at this lighthouse and communication can be made by the , commercial code, but it is not connected by telegraph. Douglas point is a green point 76 feet high, S.E. by E. \ E. 11 miles from cape Banks. Off the point there are 10 fathoms half ' a mile to seaward. The coast between is low and sandy, the highest part being a sand-hill of 105 feet, 5 miles from Douglas point. Isolated rocks and reefs extend to an average distance of one mile from the beach. At about 3 miles south-east of cape Banks are two rocks, which from seaward appear as two islands ; they are part of the mainland, and form a cove where two small vessels might lie. Middle point, with a bare sand-hill for its summit, 55 feet high,, lies 2 miles E. by S. from Douglas point. The^ coast is low between the two points, with only one sand-hill on it, three-quarters of a mile north-west of Middle point. S.E. by S. 8 cables from Middle point is a reef, a quarter of a mile in extent north and south, with less than one fathom on it. Rocks uncovered at low water extend half a mile off on either side of this point, and nearly a mile off between it and cape Northumberland. Soundings. — Between cape Buffon and cape Banks there is a depth of 10 fathoms at an average distance of one mile from the land,. See chart, No. 1,015. "CJhap. v.] CAPE BANKS. — CAPE NORTHUMBERLAND. :381 between cape Banks and Douglas point at 3 miles off, from Douglas point to cape Northumberland at one mile, and between cape Northumberland and the Glenelg river at 2 to 4 miles from the land, being farthest off south of Danger point. Between capes Buffon and Northumberland the depth is 25 fathoms at an average -distance of rather more than 5 miles from the land, over a rocky- bottom. CAPE NORTHUMBERLAND, S.E. by E. | E., nearly '2J miles from Middle point, is rugged and cliffy, about 100 feet high, with a hill behind it rising to 136 feet, and several detached rocks lying close to it. It may be easily distinguished by the lighthouse. Mounts Gambler and Schanck are also excellent marks to recognise it by. See page 386. For a mile from Middle point towards cape Northumberland the -coast is low, with a swamp behind, sand-hills then commence and xjontinue to the cape. LIGHT. — The lighthouse, on a knoll on cape Northumberland, is 42 feet high, painted with three bands, — white, red, and white. It exhibits at 150 feet above high water, a revolving Avhite light of the first order, which attains its greatest brilliancy every minute^ -and should be seen from a distance of 20 miles in clear weather. During hot weather and north-east winds, when there is often much refraction, the light is frequently seen from a great distance. The light=keepers are provided with a gun, to warn vessels, if •^observed standing into danger. Sigrnal station., — There is a signal station at the lighthouse, and 'Communication can be made by the commercial code of signals. This station is connected by telegraph. All vessels passing cape Northumberland lighthouse during the -day, and wishing to be reported, will, on showing their numbers, be telegraphed to Adelaide and Port Adelaide free of expense. In consequence of the difficulty in making out the answering pendant, a round ball with the answering pendant underneath is used at the signal station, instead of the answering pendant only. See chart, No. 1,015. 382 CAPE JERVIS TO CAPE OTWAY. [Chap. V. The station is connected with Port Macdonnell by a telephone. The storm signal is a blue swallow-tailed flag under a red ball. Meteorological observations.— In 1890 the mean height or the barometer at cape Northumberland was 29-99 inches, the maximum 30*57 inches in July and the minimum 29-09 in October. The mean temperature for the year was 57° Fahr., the maximum being 103° in January and February, and the minimum 29°-l in July. Th6 rainfall in the year was 25*9 inches, falling on 162 days ; the mean annual rainfall for 24 years was 27*47 inches ; the greatest fall was 35-02 inches in 1870 and the least 20*73 inches in 1888. DIRECTIONS. — In approaching cape Northumberland at night from the north-westward if the light is sighted on a more southerly bearing than E. ^ S. (S. 84° E.), alter course to the southward in good time, and give a wide berth to the outlying reefs west of the cape, which run parallel with, and extend a mile off shore. In approaching the cape from the eastward do not bring the light to bear west of W.N.W. (N. ()7° W.), nor approach the light on that bearing, but steer more southerly, to give a wide berth to the reef which stretches eastward from cape Northumberland. In bad weather, with the wind from the southward, the lead should be carefully attended to. Several vessels have been wrecked between cape Northumberland and cape Bujffon from neglecting this precaution. The coast north-west of cape Northumberland soon becomes low, and owing to the heavy ocean swell which sets directly on it> should be very carefully avoided. Kelp. — Between cape Banks and cape Northumberland, and from one to 4 miles off shore, there are forests of kelp, the tops of the plant trailing a long distance on the surface of the water ; it does not appear to grow where the depth is greater than 15 fathoms. Steam vessels have been obliged to stop to clear their screws of the accumulated weed. There is a quantity of it in Rivoli bay between the Ringwood reef and cape Buffon, but it is not in the way of vessels passing along the coast ; and there are patches of it which JSee charts, No. 1,00.7, Port Macdonnell, scale m = 2*0 inches. Chap, v.] . PORT MACDONNELL. 383i look like rocks, where there are 10 fathoms, westward of Maigaret Brock reef. Fish. — Barracouta are very plentiful in the waters between cape Jaffa and cape Northumberland ; they are easily caught when in more than 20 fathoms, and with the vessel going from 4 to 6 knots. Breaksea reef, the south end of which is S.E. by E. 2 miles from cape Northumberland, is a dangerous rocky reef, extending 1^ miles east from the cape and the same distance off shore. There are less than 2 fathoms on most of it, and the sea generally breaks all over it with great violence. To clear it to the south-west keep the sand-hill on the beach between Middle and Douglas points well oi)en to the left of cape Northumberland N.W. | W., until the Custom-house at Port Macdonnell bears west of North ; and from the eastward the Custom-house should not be brought to bear east of North until the sand-hill is well open of cape Northumberland. There are 11 fathoms water half a mile south-west from cape Northumberland, and 5 to 6 fathoms close to the south-west edge of the Breaksea reef. MACDONNELL BAY, is a very slight indentation of the coast, extending E. by N. about 4 miles from cape Northumberland, and affords shelter from north-westerlj^ and northerly winds, within Breaksea reef. Port Macdonnell being near to the most fertile portion of the- colony, and connected with it by good roads, is one of the principal trading places of the south-east districts of South Australia, and is situated on the coast, 2 miles to the eastward of cape Northumber- land. There is a considerable export of wheat, flour, wool, potatoes, ground bark, and dairy produce. The population in 1891 was 31(). There is telegraphic communication, and there are six mails a week from Adelaide. It is 14 miles from the railway at mount Gambler. A steam vessel trarling between Adelaide and Melbourne calln weekly, and there is a large trade by small vessels between the port and Melbourne. Vessels trading regularly are especially fitted with hawse-holes large enough to take in the mooring chain, and are provided with hawsers to be used as springs when there is much swell. Bonded and free stores have been established ; and provisions, Seff chart, No. 1,007. t58i CAPE JERVIS TO CAPE OTWAY. [Chap. V. water, and ships' stores can be procured. There is a convenient jetty, 1,060 feet long, with trucks and cranes, and having at its outer end 5 J feet at low water, in the most sheltered part of the bay. The lighters are fine sailing boats, carrying about 15 tons of cargo. Mooringrs. — There are four sets of moorings with anchors of 80 cwt. in 2^ to 3 fathoms at low water ; these represent the total possible accommodation in from 14 to 17 feet water for shipping at Port Macdonnell, for with a south-westerly swell coming in it breaks everywhere else for miles round. The centre of the moorings is E. ^ N. 2| miles from cape Northumberland lighthouse. Vessels parting from the moorings usually run on the shore North from them, and generally get off uninjured when the water has smoothed down. Pilots. — Before approaching the coast, strangers should hoist the : signal for a pilot, who will come off in favourable weather. Should the pilot not be able to board, it is recommended to maintain an offing until the weather moderates. DIRECTIONS for Port Macdonnell.— It is necessary to have - daylight to enter the bay. From the westward, with cape Northumber- land North 2 miles distant, steer E. ^ N. (N. 84° E.) until mount Gambler, a peak, is seen over the right or eastern fall of mount Schanck, a truncated cone, bearing North, the depth will be then 5 fathoms. Go in with the above leading mark on, it leads directly to the moorings, the water gradually shoaling ; 13 feet will be the least passed over, which depth is 2^ cables, a little west of South, from the outer moorings. This may be avoided by hauling a little to the eastward when half a mile from the moorings, and steering for them when they bear N.N.W. From the eastward do not approach the shore nearer than 3 miles until the leading mark given above is brought on, then proceed as directed. In going out, if the wind is from the southward make the first board to the eastward, if the vessel will lie E.S.E., or to the southward of it. If obliged to cast to the westward, do not stand in a S.W. or westerly direction for more than half a mile. S.S.W. made good, clears Breaksea reef, and leads in safety to sea. The best course, if practicable, is to go out with the leading mark SeechATt, No. 1,007. Chap, v.] PORT MACDONNELL. 385 on for 3 miles, by so doing passing through the smoothest water obtainable ; a vessel will then be in 10 fathoms, clear of all breaks and dangers, and may proceed as desired. The chart is a good guide. In the event of all the moorings being occupied, vessels entering the bay must anchor, and be kept in such a condition, as to ballast and trim, as will enable them to seek an offing should bad weather come on. Although the moorings now laid down at this port are of the heaviest description, and fully competent to hold any vessel that can enter Macdonnell bay, it must be remembered that, during and directly after, heavy south-west gales, the sea rolls in over the out- lying reefs, breaking heavily in the bay, and in 7 to 9 fathoms to the southward of the port. It is obvious, from the nature of the bottom, that no vessel is safe in bad weather from the westward, if at her own anchors. The harbour master has coir springs for the use of vessels in bad weather. At nigrht. — Do not enter the bay at night without a pilot, but keep the light bearing from N.N.W. to N.N.E., taking care not to come under 25 fathoms water, or about 5 or 6 miles from the cape. To moor. — The direction and position of the mooring anchors and chains will be duly pointed out, and instructions given to masters of vessels in mooring and unmooring by the harbour master or pilot. In case of the weather being such as would render it improper to take hold of the large buoy, an anchor must be let go, clear of the direction of the mooring chains at the bottom. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, at Port Macdonnell at h. 2 m. ; springs rise 4 feet. Sig*nals. — The flagstaff at which the signals are shown is situated near the inner end of the jetty. A blue flag is hoisted by the harbour master at the flagstaff, when he deems it unsafe for vessels in the offing to come in and moor ; or for boats to land from vessels at the moorings. See chart, No. 1,007. SO 11712 2 B 38^) CAPE JERVIS TO CAPE OTWAY. [Chap. V. A 11 feboat and rocket apparatus are in readiness in case of accident, and there is a pilot boat with coir springs, available for vessels at Port Macdonnell. In the event of shipwreck near, and the lives of the crew being in danger, assistance will, if possible, be rendered. Mounts Gambler and Schanck are two isolated conspicuous hills, inland from this part of the coast. Mount Gambler, N. by E. J E. 14 miles from cape Northumberland, is a peak 630 feet high, with table land attached which extends to the eastward of it. It is an extinct volcano and there are four lakes in the crater ; the eastern, known as the Blue lake, is 160 fathoms deep and about half a mile in diameter. Mount Schanck, N. by E. | E. 8 miles from cape Northumberland, is a truncated cone, 380 feet high ; it is also an extinct volcano and the crater is dry. The COAST.— Flint point, E. | N. 5 miles from cape Northumberland, is very low, and fronted by rocks and heaps of stones dry at low water. There are 3 fathoms more than a mile south of it. From cape Northumberland to this point the coast is low, a sandy beach with a bank behind, and except from Port Macdonnell jetty to 2 miles to the eastward of it, fronted by extensive rocky ledges dry at low water. A low wooded range runs in a north- easterly direction 1^ miles from cape Northumberland ; elsewhere the country at the back of Port Macdonnell is swampy for more than a mile inland. The swamps discharge themselves into the sea by Cress creek, the mouth of which is nearly one mile east of the jetty. Dangler point, N.E. by E. | E. 1| miles from Flint point, is also low, with fresh water swamps at the back. The indentation between Danger and Flint points called Brown bay, ib shallow ; a rocky reef, with 3 fathoms on its extreme, extends S.S.E. 1^ miles from Danger point. A range of wooded hills, which continues to the Glenelg river, commences N.W. by N. 3 miles from Danger point, with an elevation at that spot of 125 feet. Moorak creek, a fine fresh water creek, discharges itself into the sea close to Danger point ; when there is no ocean swell on, a boat may run into the mouth of the creek, and till water casks from alongside. Green point, 50 teet high, E. ^ N. 3J miles from Danger point, >See charts, No. 1,007 and No. 1,015. r'han. v.] MOTIN'TS GAMBTBR AIS^D SCHATs^CK. — RUBY ROCK. 387 is named from its ver.dant appearance. There is a sandy beach between it and Danger point, forminar Riddoch bay, and a range of sand-hills, the highest 70 feet, commences in the bight of Riddoch bay and extends to Green point. Landing^. — Butte reef with 2 feet on it, having deeper water inside, makes landing practicable on Green point in ordinary fine weather, when there is a swell outside. Ruby rock, East 12 miles from cape Northumberland, and nearly 2 miles off shore, has 3 feet on it at low water, and during south-east and easterly winds seldom breaks ; with the sun ahead, there is no indication of the rock, attention must be given to the lead and bear- ings. There are 2 to 3 fathoms in an E.S.E. direction 3 cables from the rock, 8 fathoms close to seaward and 4 fathoms directly inshore of it ; no leading mark can be given for clearing it. There are 16 fathoms 2 miles, and 20 fathoms 4 miles south of it. At night, should the light be obscured. Ruby rock may be avoided by keeping in more than 10 fathoms water. VICTORIA. Glenelg river, which discharges itself into the sea at the boundary of South Australia, is E. ^ N. 15J miles from cape Northumberland. The coast between it and Green point is a sandy beach with low sand-hills behind. There is a sandy bar at the mouth, which is fordable at low water when the sea is smooth. Mount Ruskin is 150 feet high, N.W. by W. 1^ miles from Glenelg river mouth. The COAST. — Eastward of Glenelg river the coast in the bight is a succession of hummocks about 150 feet high, partly covered with bushes, the sand in many places reaching the summits. At 2 or 3 miles inland there are densely timbered tracts of rising ground about 300 feet high. A heavy swell constantly rolls on this coast, rendering a wide berth necessary. .'l of cape Bridgewater, which, when iiee chart, No. 2,504. Chap, v.] PORTLAND BAY, DIRECTIONS. 393 seen from the distance of 12 or 15 miles from the south-west- ward, appears covered with white sand-patches. Then, after making cape Nelson, steer for a convenient distance outside Lawrence rock. When Whaler point lighthouse bears N.W. ^ W. (N. 51° W.) steer for it, and anchor when the jetty end bears W.S.W., or as con- venient. As the vessel proceeds northward the houses of Portland open out from Observatory hill. Should the wind be scant, the vessel may pass to the northward of the town until it bears S.W., and then tack for the anchorage. At nig'ht. — Entering Portland bay from the westward do not round the Lawrence rock until the green light on Whaler point becomes visible, when shape a course for the light, and anchor when the red jetty light bears W.S.W. From the eastward. — In proceeding to Portland bay from the eastward. Lady Julia Percy isle should be sighted ; it lies E. ^ N. 17 miles from cape Sir William Grant, and may be passed at the distance of half a mile. Then shape a course for the bay. Caution. — Between Lady Julia Percy isle and the mainland is a passage 3 miles wide ; but it is not advisable for a large vessel to go through it, as a heavy swell from the south-west generally rolls in upon the coast, and frequent calms in summer make it unsafe ; the whole coast being fronted by a border of dangerous rocks, extending for three-quarters of a mile off shore, with a breaking sea even further oft'. Steam vessels and other trading vessels using this passage are therefore cautioned against approaching the land in this vicinity. At nig'ht. — From the eastward shape a course for Whaler point light until the jetty light becomes visible, when steer for the jetty or anchorage. Care must be taken not to lose sight of the red light, which becomes invisible on nearing the chequered buoy off Whaler point. The southern edge of the green light leads about a quarter of a mile off shoal water. A boat is always in readiness to afford assistance when required. TIDES. — The tide in Portland bay, as regards its rise and fall, is entirely dependent on the winds. It is high water, full and change, at k. 30 m. ; springs rise about 3 feet. ^e chart, No. 2 504. 394 CAPE JERVIS TO CAPE OTWAY. [Chap. V. The COAST.— From Fitzroy river, which is 12 miles to the north-east of Portland, the coast trends with a curve E. by S. | S. 10 miles to the entrance of lake Yambnk, in a south-easterly direction from which is Mills reef. From lake Yambuk, Boulder point bears S.E. by E. | E. 5| miles. The coast for the first half of the distance is sandy, having bare sand and grassy hummocks immediately over it ; the highest, mount Hummock, 218 feet high, forms one of the points in the triangula- tion of the colony. The remaining half of the distance is of a rocky character. From Boulder point to the south point of Griffith isiand (port Fairy), 4| miles, the general direction of the coast is E. :J N. ; it is strewn with boulders of various sizes, some uncovered at high water, and a few sunken rocks lie at about a quarter of a mile off it. Mills reef lies a mile eastward of the entrance to lake Yambuk, and three-quarters of a mile from the shore, abreast of Lady Julia Percy island ; it consists of several rocks awash at high water, and marked by kelp. See caution, page 393. Lady Julia Percy island, lying E. | N. 21 miles from cape Nelson, is of a triangular form, 155 feet high, flat-topped, and cliffy on all sides. The island presents the same appearance from all directions, with the exception that the southern end is a fe\^ feet higher than the other parts, towards which the island has a small decline. There is indifferent landing on the north side in a small bay. Rabbits have been placed upon the island, and are numerous. PORT FAIRY. — For 7 miles on either side of port Fairy the coast is low, that to the westward having grassy slopes with a few scattered trees, whilst that to the eastward is composed for the most part of bare sand-hummocks about 60 feet in height. In making this port from the southward the most remarkable land seen is Tower hill, lying 7 miles N.E. \ N. from Griffith island, which extends from off the land in a north-easterly direction, and forms port Fairy. Tower hill, 300 feet high, presents the appearance of a table- land, but that part more particularly named Tower hill is a peak thrown up by volcanic agency in the centre of a fresh- water lake ; upon it there was a surveying station. From the westward. Tower See charts, No. 1,06^ and No. 2,606, port Fairy, scale m = 6*0 inches. Chap, v.] PORT FAIRY. 395 hill itself is not visible, a? it then appears in line with the higher table-land which lies one mile east of it. When Tower hill begins to bear northerly it opens out west of the table-land, and continues to be visible as a single conical peak. The table-land falls to the westward, and appears to join Tower hill ; eastward it falls to the same elevation as the western land. The land in the vicinity, both east and west, is higher than the general coast. This hill is not only a good mark for port Fairy, but also for the adjoining port of Warrnambool, it being situated midway between the two places. After making Tower hill, Griffith island is the next conspicuous land seen. Grifflth island is conspicuous on this coast, and has two or three hummocks, the highest of which is 74 feet above high water ; it is three-quarters of a mile long and half a mile broad, tapering away to the north-east point, where it is only 15 feet above high water ; in it is included what was formerly Rabbit island ; these two islands were united to seaward by artificial means, since which the sand has heaped up inside. From the south end of Griffith island, which is composed of large volcanic boulders, the same description of coast extends to the east- ward a quarter of a mile, terminating in a hillock 10 feet high, known as Dusty Miller island, there being a channel at high water- between it and Griffith island. Sunken rocks extend 200 yards from the south coast of Griffith and Dusty Miller islands, and continue to 200 yards off the east point of Griffith island, upon which the lighthouse statids. LIGHTS. — A red circular stone lighthouse stands on the east point of Griffith island. It is nearly at high- water mark, and it exhibits at 11 feet above high water, a fixed red light, varied by a flash every three minutes ; visible from a distance of 9 miles in clear weather. Within 3 miles it appears as ^ fixed light. The light appears ^^ec? for one minute and 40 seconds, is suddenly eclipsed for 31 seconds, then exhibits a flash for 12 seconds, and is again eclipsed for 34 seconds, when theflxed light re-appears. Aflxed white light is exhibited from one of the lower windows in the tower, and shows over the anchorage. A light is exhibited from the end of the southern dyke forming A&e chart, No. 2,606. 596 CAPE JERVIS TO CAPE OTWAY. [(5hap. V. the entrance to Moyne river. The light is a /i^ec? light, and shows red from the black buoy off the river entrance over the foul ground to Gritfith island ; and white from the black buoy over the river entrance. It should be visible in clear weather from a distance of about 3 miles. From Look-out hill near the inner end of the jetty 2^ fixed green light is exhibited, which should be seen from a distance of 3 miles, between the bearings of South and S. 67° W. Buoys. — From the east point of Griffith island to the east and north-east a reef, dry at low water, extends a cable off. Also from the same point, rocky ground extends more than 600 yards in a N. by W. direction, with 7 and 10 feet near its north part, and with not more than 15 feet anywhere on it. At the north end of this rockj' ground a black buoy is moored in 17 feet, with the Custom-house just open of the end of the jetty, bearing S. 68° W., and the light- house S. 11° E. A small red buoy marks a 3 fathoms patch on the edge of the 3 fathoms line, and bears N. by W. | W. IJ cables from the black buoy. Back pass, a narrow channel between Griffith island and the mainland, has a bar of 6 feet, outside which the depth rapidly increases to 10 fathoms. This passage has been used by boats, but is not safe except in very calm weather. With south-westerly winds a strong current sets along the coast to the eastward, which has led the Government to remove some of the obstructions from the pass, in order that a current may go through into the river Moyne and scour the sand from the river's mouth. The stone removed from the Back pass has been formed into walls, which are extended from the Moyne river entrance into the bay in an E.N.E. direction. ^ The coast west of Back pass is bordered by sunken rocks, which extend from 200 to 400 yards from it, and is formed principally of large volcanic boulders. Moyne river flows into port Fairy, and on Look-out hill on the eastern bank, 38 feet high, and close to the river's mouth, stands a flagstaff. When the survey was made there was a bar at the mouth See chart, No. 2,606. Chap, v.] PORT FAIRY. 397 of the river with only 2 feet on it at low water. The channel has been excavated and two training piers run into the bay : now there is a minimum depth of I0| feet at low water in the centre of the channel from the black buoy outside the bar to the Government wharf, or 10 feet to the north end of the swinging basin in the river. Belfast.'^ — At the mouth of Moyne river, W.8.W. of Melbourne, between which steam vessels run at frequent intervals. There is a railway in connection with the system of Victoria. Vessels drawing 10 feet water can be loaded and discharged at the wharf stores in the middle of the town. It is the principal shipping port of the western district, and there is a large trade in wool, grain, and general produce. In 1881 the exports were valued at 350,000/. The population was 1,864 in 1891. There is telegraphic communication, and there are 18 mails a week from Melbourne. Signal station. — There is a signal station at Belfast pilot station and communication can be made by the commercial code. It is connected by telegraph. Jetty. — At 1^ cables north of Moyne river entrance a jetty extends 400 yards into 7 feet water ; but it can seldom be used except as a landing place. At one and 2 cables north of the jetty, and 1^ cables from the shore, are two patches of sunken rocks ; being in shoal water they do not interfere with shipping. A lifeboat is stationed at port Fairy. Reef point. — From Moj^ne river entrance the coast trends N.N.W., and thence curves gradually round to N.N.E. and E. by N. to Reef point, which is N.P]. by N. 2^ miles from Griffith island lighthouse. All this coast has a sandy beach with grassy sand- hummocks until within a mile of Reef point, when the hummocks are all of bare sand 50 to 65 feet in height. Off Reef point boulders from 9 to 2 feet above high water extend a distance of 400 yards, and sunken rocks extend 100 yards further. DIRECTIONS.— After making out the hill on Griffith island, steer so as to clear the reef which extends from the lighthouse, then See chart, Xo. 2,506. * Also called Port Fair v. 398 CAPE JERVIS TO CAPE OTWAY. [Chap. V. haul up for the anchorage, for which the flasfstaff in line with the jetty is a good mark. At nigrht do not enter port Fairy until the green light on Look-out hill is opened out, when steer for it and anchor as convenient. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, at port Fairy, at h. 31 m. ; ordinary springs rise 3 feet. Ancliorag'e,— -The best anchorage for small vessels is in about 3 fathoms water, a cable north-west of the black buoy of the foul ground, with Griffith island lighthouse bearing S.S.E. The anchorage for large ships is in 5 to 6 fathoms off the tail of the reef extending from the north-east point of GrilBfith island, with the lighthouse bearing S. | W., and the flagstaff in line with, or a little open north of the end of the jetty S.W. | W. Vessels trading to port Fairy generally pick up an anchorage in about 15 feet water between the black buoy and the jetty ; vessels making use of the port only during the continuance of a south- westerly gale may get as close in as their draught of water will permit. For the gunpowder anchorage see page 499. The anchorage is bad with easterly winds, and vessels are recom- mended not to try and ride out a south-easterly gale, except as a matter of necessity, and then all precautions should be taken and springs placed on the cable. Here, as at Portland and Warrnambool, there are coir hawsers in charge of the harbour-master. Sisters point is conspicuous from its having immediately over it two hummocks 65 feet high, so like each other as to have obtained the name of The Sisters. Boulders 4 feet above high water lie a quarter of a mile seaward of this point. The COAST.— From Reef point. Sisters point bears E. by N. ^ N., L^ miles. A point lies midway between forming a sandy bight on either side, but the whole distance between them from a quarter to half a mile from the land is filled with high- water, half-tide, and sunken rocks. The coast between Reef and Sisters points is a succession of bare sand-hummocks about 50 feet high. From Armstrong bay the coast is a sandy bight with grassy hummocks over it, from 100 to 160 feet in height, trending to See ahart, No. 2,606. Ohap. v.] LADY BAY. 399 the E.S.E. for about 6 miles to Middle island, at the western part of Lady bay. Between one and 2 miles from Middle island is a tract of bare sand. Armstrong' bay. — One mile E. by N. of Sisters point is a small sandy point fringed with bo alders, forming a small bay known by the name oC Armstrong. Sunken rocks are numerous, and nearly fill it up. This bay is used by fishing boats. Helen rock, with one fathom on it, lies E. | S. 2^ miles froin Sisters point, and S. by E. |- E. from Tower hill. The rock is one mile from the shore, has 8 or 10 fathoms close to on all sides, and is of so pinnacle a form that a lead will not rest upon its summit. It rarely breaks, and is much in the way of coasters. Mount WarrnambOOl. — In clear weather, and if more than 5 miles from the land, between port Fairy and Lady bay, mount Warrnambool is visible ; it has a round but not very even summit 707 feet above the sea. It lies from Warrnambool lighthouse N.E. by E. i E. 13 miles, and from Flaxman hill N. | W. 14 mites. A low spur of the same hill lies about 3 miles west of it. LADY BAY is an indentation of the mainland extending from Middle island, E. by N. 1| miles to Hopkins river, whence Hopkins reef, which is awash at high water, projects one-third of a mile to the southward. From Pickering point the land trends W. by N. ^ N. for about three-quarters of a mile, this coast being composed of sandstone cliffs, having numerous indentations with half tide and sunken rocks lying off it, in some places to a distance of 3 cables. Immediately over the cliffy coast are numerous sand- hummocks, in some cases grassed, but generally bare ; the western and highest of these is 115 feet high, the others vary from 60 to 80 feet. Behind Lady bay it is high and well wooded, while the land east of Hopkins river is clear of timber and grassy, rising gradually from the coast, and terminating in a high grassy down 1^ miles inland. Warrnambool harbour, on the western side of Lady bay, is formed by several outlying islands and rocks, nearly connected with each other, which extend from Pickering point in a S.E. and E.S.E direction. The largest of these is what is named Middle island, See charts. No. 1.062. and No. 2,494. Lady bay and Warmambool harbour, Pcale in = 8*5 inoli«s. 400 CAPE JERVIS TO CAPE OTWAY. [Chap. V. between Middle island and Pickering point is Merri island, and out- side to the eastward is Breakwater rock. Merri island, lying 100 yards S.S.E. from Pickering point, to which it is all but attached by half-tide rocks, is 47 feet high, and very small, being about 120 yards across. Middle island, the central and largest of the three islets which form Warrnambool harbour, is 250 yards long north-west and s mth- east and 100 yards broad ; it is 70 feet high and on its summit is the old lighthouse ; it lies south-east of Merri island, to which it is almost joined by rocks of various heights. On one of these. Datum rock, a datum mark for tides has been placed, on which is written " The bottom of this is 5 feet 6 inches above ordinary low water." From Middle island, several half-tide rocks extend in a southerly direction for a distance of a cable, and at a further distance of 4 cables in a S.S.E. direction is a dangerous rocky patch of 17 feet, upon which the sea breaks heavily, the intervening space between it and the island being uneven and rocky. Breakwater rock, a small islet 1(S feet high and encircled by sandstone ledges which uncover at half-tide, lies a cable east of the old lighthouse on Middle island. Between it and Middle island is a small rocky passage with from 2 to 12 feet water. Fronting Break- water rock to the south and south-east are several half -tide ledges nearly joined to one another, and distant from Breakwater rock nearly a cable. Off these again to the south-east at a further distance of a cable is another half -tide ledge, with two small patches, each a foot above high water. Rocks awash at low water extend a cable from the last-mentioned ledge. Breakwater. — A well-built breakwater extends from Merri point over the rocky shoal north of Breakwater rock and thence about 350 yards in a N.E. by E. ^ E. direction. Ships of 265 feet in length^ could be berthed alongside it, the depth at the outer part being 19^ feet at low water. Lig'h.t. — A fixed red light is exhibited from a post at the end of Warrnambool breakwater, it is about 30 feet above high water, and should be seen from a distance of 3 miles in clear weather. The Sfifi chart, Xo. 2,494. Chap, v.] WARRNAMBOOL. 401 light is obscured seaward to the south of the line indicated by the direction of the breakwater (N. 62° E.). WARRNAMBOOL, the main part of the town is situated about half a mile northward from Lady bay, and is 3.70 miles to the south- west of Melbourne. Jetties, one abo^t 700 feet long, with a tramway to the stores, and the other about 500 feet long, give facilities for loading and discharging vessels ; cargo is transhipped into lighters in Lady bay. A large trade is done from the port, the principal exports are wool, potatoes, wheat, preserved meats, and dairy produce. Steam vessels ply three times a week to Melbourne. There is a railway in connection with the system of Victoria. The population, in 1891, was 6,582 persons. There is telegraphic communication, and there are 12 mails a week from Melbourne. Merri river. — Immediately behind Pickering point is the mouth of the Merri river, which ordinarily may be stepped across, but floods wash the sand from its mouth, allowing the discharge of a large body of water. Formerly the Merri river curved along the shore at the back of the sand-hummocks, but it was feared that as the sand was blown inland the river might be the means of conveying a large quantity into the harbour and so help to fill it up ; in consequence of which a chain of lagoons was joined and united with the river above the sand encroachment. From Merri point, at the eastern side of the entrance to the Merri river, the land trends in a northerly direction for about one-third of a mile, whence it trends in an easterly direction for about half a mile, and then south-east to the mouth of the Hopkins river, the heads of which form the east side of Lady bay. The bar. — Warrnambool harbour is protected to the south-eastward by a bar of 3 J to 5 fathoms water, which adjoins and extends from a rocky patch awash at high water, lying South 3 cables from Hopkins river heads. The 5-fathoms extreme of this bar is only 3 cables from the low- water rocks, extending S.E. from the islands off Pickering point, and this distance forms the main or south channel into Warrnambool harbour. Between the bar, and about a quarter of a mile from the shore, the See chart, No. 2,494. SO 11712 2 402 CAPE JERVIS TO CAPE OTWAY. [Chap. V. soundings vary from 7 to 4 fathoms, the bottom being generally sand over rock or sandstone rock. Mooring'S. — There is a set of moorings in Warmambool harbour, in 3^ fathoms, consisting of a 30 cwt. anchor with 90 fathoms of 1| inch chain ; to the end of the chain a red mooring buoy is attiiched. Coir springs, each of 20 fathoms, are kept on the end of the jetty. Sigrnal station. — There is a signal station at Warrnambool pilot station, and communication can be made by the commercial code. It is connected by telegraph. Lifeboat. — At the jetty is a lifeboat station. Danger signal for flshing' boats.— When the sea is breaking in the fairway, rendering the entrance to Warrnambool harbour unsafe for boats, a chequered black and white cone is shown from the eastern yardarm at the signal station, between sunrise and sunset. LIGHTS.— Two leading lights in line bearing N. ^ E. are established on the sites of the obelisks, on the hill ridges immediately in front of the town. The upper, a fixed white light, is exhibited from a tower, at an elevation of 109 feet above high water, and is visible from East round by north to N. 45° W., from a distance of 14 miles in clear weather. The lower light is a fixed red light, shown from the top of the lower obelisk at 87 feet above high water, and can be seen between the bearings of N. 1° E. and N. 39° W. from a distance of 5 miles. A fixed green light is exhibited from the end of the tramway jetty, visible from a distance of 3 miles. DIRECTIONS. — The leading marks into Warrnambool harbour are the two light towers 140 yards apart, erected on the north shore, the summits being respectively 109 and 87 feet above high water. The South channel, which is the best entrance into Warrnambool harbour, has in its centre two rocky patches of 27 and 29 feet. The bottom of the whole channel is rocky and uneven, varying from 9 fathoms to 28 feet, but in which a depth of 6 fathoms might* be maintained. See chart, No. 2,494. Chap, v.] WARRNAMBOOL HARBOUR. 403 A stranger bound to Warrnambool harbour from the westward or .southward will be greatly guided as to his relative position by Tower hill, which is only 3 miles from the coast, and 7 miles west of Warrnambool. Taking care to avoid the 17-feet patch wh^sh lies S.S.E. nearly half :a mile from Middle island, bring the two light towers in line bearing N. J E. (N. 1° E.), which mark leads in the fairway between the 5 fathoms bank and the foul ground to the south-east of Break- ^water rock. When past the break off the rocks, and the end of the breakwater bears about N.W. by N., steer for the harbour, giving the •end of the breakwater a fair berth. Sailing vessels cannot do better i;han hug the break off the rocks, as by getting under their lee they .are enabled, without danger of shipping a heavy sea, to haul up for •the anchorage. Vessels are recommended not to approach too mear the mouth of Hopkins river. In bad weather, or with a heavy southerly swell, the ;fiea breaks a mile off the land. In fine weather, however, vessels may, and do cross in all directions, the bar extending from Hopkins Tiver. From the eastward Tower hill is the best guide to the locality. Mount Warrnambool is hidden by the land if within 4 miles, and being upwards of 10 miles inland is often obscured by mist. Having made out Warrnambool, either cross the bar to the south- •eastward, or if the sea is breaking on the bar, haul off and stand to the westward until the coast in that direction be opened clear of the islands, then proceed to get the leading marks as before directed. Crossing the bar must depend entirely on the weather. The great •disadvantage of crossing it is that vessels have to proceed broadside to the swell. Warrnambool is the only one of the three western ports of Victoria -which may be considered safe in south-easterly gales. This is in -consequence of the outer swell being broken on the bar fronting the Jiarbour to the south-eastward. Coir rope springs are supplied by the Government and should be placed on the cable in the event of a heavy swell setting in to the anchorage. At nigrllt. — To enter Warrnambool harbour, (having avoided >the 17-feet patch which lies S.S.E. half a mile from Middle island) bring the red light in line with the white lights See chart, No. 2,494. SO 11712 2 C 2 404 CAPE JERVIS TO CAPE OTWAY. [Chap. V. bearing N. } E. (N. 1° E.), which leads in between the 5-fathom8. bank and the foul ground south-east of Breakwater rock until the green light on the jetty opens, bearing about W.N.W. (N. 67° W.),. when steer in for the anchorage, giving the breakwater end, on which is a red light not visible seaward, a fair berth in passing. From the eastward, either bring marks above described on or cross the bar to the south-eastward, taking care not to shut the white light in when standing towards the mouth of Hopkins river. In bad weather, or with a heavy southerly swell, the sea breaks one mile off the land. On the approach of a heavy south-west gale with night coming on,. Portland bay is easy of access, and affords good shelter until the gale abates. This is considered of great importance, as it would be dangerous to take Lady bay in a gale from S.W. or South, the sea then breaking with great violence across the south-east entrance. Caution. — It is not safe to enter or leave the harbour in south- westerly or southerly gales. Anchor ag^e. — Warrnambool harbour is small and not adapted for large vessels, the outer anchorage being in 3^ to 4 fathoms, with a swell sometimes which causes a diminution of the depth. The best anchorage is in about 15 feet water, northward of the breakwater and about a cable from the ledge off Breakwater rock. Vessels having entered the harbour must pick up an anchorage where most convenient, according to their draught of water ; or they may make fast to the moorings. For the gunpowder anchorage,. see page 499. All vessels using this port should be provided with good springs for their cables, as even in the finest weather there is a heavy range- TIDES- — It is high water, full and change, in Warrnambool harbour at Oh. 37m. ; springs rise about 3 feet. The COAST. — From 4 miles east of Warrnambool to Moonlight head, which is 38 miles farther to the south-east, the coast is of a cliffy character, and presents an almost unbroken appearance, the : only break to its uniformity being a broad-topped cultivated hill,. 221 feet high, over the east bank of Hopkins river, and a fall in the land 9 miles east of Warrnambool. The cliffs are higher as Moon- light head is approached. 300 chart, Ko. 2,494. •Chap, v.] FLAXMAN HILL. — CURDIB INLET. 405 The coast from Hopkins river, at the eastern part of Lady bay, to Flaxman hill is nearly straight, and apparently bold, but a heavy swell constantly rolls in and breaks in about 5 fathoms water ; the coast thence continues to trend in the same direction, and is of the same character, for a further distance of about 3 miles, and is locally known as the Bold projection. Sunken rocks here exist at a distance of a quarter of a mile from the coast. The Bold projection is the only projecting part of the coast between Moonlight head and Warmambool, but otherwise is no more conspicuous than other parts •of the coast in the neighbourhood. Flaxman hill, 262 feet high, bears S.E. by E. ^ E. 14 miles from the mouth of Hopkins river ; a quarter of a mile north-west of Flaxman hill is a second hill not qilite so high, but sometimes more ■conspicuous, in consequence of its sandy appearance. The two hills together are a good guide to the locality of a part of the coast, which •otherwise presents a great sameness of appearance, overhanging cliffs forming the principal feature. About midway between Hopkins river and Flaxman hill the coast range immediately over the cliffs is rather higher than the adjacent land, being there elevated 242ieet above the level of the sea. A large pile of stones has been built upon the summit of Flaxman hill. Bay of islands. — The western land of the bay of islands lies close south-eastward of the Bold projection and S.E. by E. ^ E. 18 miles from Warmambool. The bay may be identified by its white cliffy appearance, varied by numerous small islands all of the same ^character, the whole presenting a pleasing and striking appearance. From the western part of the bay of islands to Curdie inlet, distant 4 miles E.S.E., the coast is cut by bays and studded by small islands. The sea breaks heavily half a mile from the shore, and it is probable that sunken rocks fringe the whole distance. It was not safe to ■sound off this part of th^ coast, and therefore it should be carefully avoided. Curdie inlet is conspicuous from the sandy nature of the entrance, and is often barred across. The mouth is low and inter- spersed with low water rocks. At the west point of the inlet, on the highest part of the coast, there is a conspicuous sand-patch, and Seechvirty'So. 1,062. /0^ ±^^ { UNIVERSITY I 406 CAPE JERVIS TO CAPE OTWAY. [Chap. V- eastward there are other sandhills or patches ; these are more con- spicuous from their contrast with the cliffy coast on either side. From the immediate mouth where the fresh water discharges itself there is a widening of the entrance to a second or outer mouth, and' at the points which form the outer mouth are several limestone- rocks, those about the western point being more numerous ; those- off the eastern point are about one-third of a mile from it, and are joined to it by a narrow neck of sand, the central portion of which is^ washed over by the sea ; the highest of the eastern rocks is about 17 feet in height, and a ledge extends from it in a north-west audi south-east direction. The sea breaks violently to the east and south,, and across the mouth from the ledge to the rocks off the western point there is also a heavy break. From Curdie inlet, Hesse point bears E. by S. 3 miles ; the coast between is irregular and cliffy. At Curdie inlet the appearance of the coast begins to change in consequence of the cliffs being backed by higher ground. From Hesse point t]^e coast trends E. by N.- 2 miles to the mouth of port Campbell. Port Campbell is the only anchorage between Warmambool and cape Otway ; but it is directly open to the S.W. The entrance to- port Campbell is marked by headlands, the eastern head is from 60 to 80 feet high, and the western 200 feet high, and bears from the former W.S.W. A reef off the eastern head reaches in a south- westerly direction to nearly three-quarters of a mile, and breaks heavily ; whilst the reef off the western head extends in the same direction only a little more than a quarter of a mile, and on which there is very little break. The channel between these reefs is from 250 to 300 feet wide. The western side of the port is formed by almost perpendicular cliffs 200 feet high, running out from the beach to the south-west. The eastern side is also formed by cliffs, but not as high or projecting as far from the beach. At the western end of the beach Campbell creek flows into the sea. There are about 12 acres of anchorage ground, with soundings from one to- 3 fathoms, gradually increasing to 4 fathoms when abreast of the eastern head, and to 5 and 6 fathoms to a point in line with the western head. The bottom is sandy with patches of limestone rock. In heavy weather there is a great drawback off the beach, which causes vessels to surge considerably at their anchors, necessitating a spring being run out to the shore. It is reported that during the 6Ve chart, No. 1,062. Chap, v.] PORT CAMPBELL. — RONALD POINT. 407 summer months (from. December to March inclusive), there is smooth water at the anchorage. The port may be considered an anchorage for small craft of 30 to 40 tons, and for steam vessels of the Murray river class, drawing from 6 to 8 feet water. After northerly winds there is good landing ; a jetty has been built, telegraphic communication is established, and when the district becomes more populated there will be no difficulty in utilising the port in favourable weather. The population of the township is 260. Mooring'S. — There are two sets of moorings, and the mooring buoys are red. Vessels using these moorings must have a spring out astern to the beach. DIRECTIONS. — Upon approaching port Campbell from either side the sea appears to break right across the entrance, but, when the sandy beach becomes well open, a passage will be seen between the breakers, and can with confidence be taken in moderate weather on the fairway marks. The eastern break is very defined, as it is one continuous break from its outer extreme to the shore, with bold water immediately clear of the break on its west side. The left extreme of the East head in line with beacon on hummocks N.E. ^ N. leads between the east and west breaks, until the two poles on Napier bluff are in line N. by E. J E., which line keep until the beacon on hummocks shows a little to the westward of mooring buoy, then steer straight for the moorings. The tides are influenced greatly by the wind. The set is principally south-easterly, or outward across the east break. Mean rise about 4 feet. The COAST.— From port Campbell the coast trends E. by S. i S. 3 miles to the Sherbrook river, and thence with a slight curve S.E. by E. 11 miles to Moonlight head. At one and 2 miles east of the Sherbrook river are a few islets and rocks known as the Sow and Pigs. At a distance of one to 3 miles west of Moonlight head there are several ledges which cover and uncover and are skirted by a few sunken rocks, a quarter of a mile from the shore. Ronald point, lying midway between Sherbrook river and Moonlight head, is a bluff point 257 feet high, conspicuous by a large See chart, No. 1,062. 408 CAPE JERVIS TO CAPE OTWAY. [Chap. V. body of drift sand to the eastward ; the point forms the west head of the entrance to the Gellibrand river. This river, though draining a rather large tract of country, is similar to Curdie inlet, Campbell creek, and Sherbrook river, having a small mouth never very broad and barred across in dry seasons. MOONLIGHT HEAD is bold, rounded and densely timbered, not only over the cliffs, but wherever it is possible for vegetation to cling ; the undergrowth is almost impenetrable. The hills immediately over the coast are about 500 feet high, the highest being 546 feet ; these hills form spars of the Otway ranges, which rise gradually at the back, until at 2 and 3 miles inland they attain an elevation of over 1,000 feet. The highest hill of the Otway ranges west of cape Otway is 1,800 feet high, and has a rounded summit ; it lies N.E. 10^ miles from Moonlight head. Several rocks above water closely skirt Moonlight head. The COAST from Moonlight head trends to the N.E. and East, and forms a bight to Lion headland, which is 3 miles distant. North-eastward of Moonlight head, distant one-third of a mile, is Reginald point, with a small islet close to. Lion headland is formed of bold high cliffs, perhaps the highest on the coast of Victoria ; here too the Otway ranges have the greatest elevation when near the coast. Rotten point lies E. by S. J S. 4 miles from Lion headland. Between the two points a bight is formed, in the depth of which, at 3 miles from the headland, is the mouth of Joanna river, with a sand island in it. Rotten point is rocky, and there is a rock awash at high water a quarter of a mile south of it. Cape Otway bears from the rock S.E. by E. 7 miles distant ; nearly midway between them is the mouth of Ayr river. There are several conspicuous sand-patches about the mouth of Joanna river and Rotten point, and there is one very large body of drift sand just to the eastward of Ayr river. The coast between Rotten point and cape Otway is rocky, and the sea generally breaks in 5 fathoms of water. See chart, No. 1,062. Chap, v.] MOONLIGHT HBAD.—CAPE OTWAY. 401) A conspicuous conical peak 1,650 feet high, with a range of about the same elevation near it to the northward, lies N. by E. 10 miles from cape Otway. CAPE OTWAY, on the north side of the western approach to Bass strait, is a bluff cliffy projection 250 feet high, of a dark brown colour, with patches of coarse sandstone rising to openly timbered grassy hummocks, not exceeding 350 feet in height. A rocky ledge, with 10 feet water on its shoalest part, extends S.S.E. three-quarters of a mile from the cape ; and a very heavy ripple extends nearly 2 miles from the land, with the lighthouse bearing N. by E. to N.N.W. This ripple had, until sounded, been looked upon as a dangerous reef. * The cape should not be approached within a mile on a N.W. to ^.N.E. direction and to the westward nearer than 2 miles ; it should be rounded at a distance of not less than 3 miles. LIGHT. — On the south-west extreme of cape Otway a circular white lighthouse, 62 feet high, exhibits at 300 feet above high water, a group flashing white light of the first order, showing three flashes every minute^ which should be seen from a distance of 24 miles in clear weather. It is visible between the bearings of S. 78° E. :and S. 63° W. Dangler ligrllt. — A flxed red danger light is exhibited from cape 'Otway lighthouse, 48 feet below the group flashing light. This light is so screened as to be obscured when approaching it from seaward, until 4 miles distant, on a N. 11° W. bearing ; and is visible (in clear weather) to a vessel proceeding on a S. 79° W. or N. 79° E. course, until 8 miles distant. It is exhibited to warn mariners of the proximity of danger, and when seen, the course should be altered to run it out of sight. In thick or foggy weather mariners should not rely on sighting the red light, but should keep a good offing. Fog; Sigrnal. — During thick or foggy weather an explosive fog signal gives one report similar to that of a gun every five minutes. The explosive fog signals (rockets) explode at a height of about ^600 feet, with a sharp report, which, under favourable atmospheric conditions, may be heard at a distance of 5 or 6 miles. Mariners See chart, No. 1,062. 410 CAPE JBRVIS TO CAPE OTWAY. * [Chap. V. should on hearing the signal take precautions immediately, as some- times the sound may only be heard at a much shorter distance. Signal station. — There is a signal station at cape Otway light- house, and communication can be made by the commercial code. It is connected by telegraph. Meteorological observations. — At cape Otway, 270 feet above the sea, in 1892, the maximum temperature in the shade was 104° Fahr., the minimum 40°, and the mean 55*6°; rain fell on 175 days, and the amount was 36*8 inches. Sounding's. — -The 50-fathoms line of soundings, distant 3 miles south of cape Nelson, increases its distance from the land rapidly until south of Lady Julia Percy island, where it is distant 23 miles from the main shore. South of Moonlight head, it is distant 30 miles ; it then takes a gradual sweep in towards the mouth of Bass strait, and at cape Otway is distant only 8 miles. In-shore of the 50-fathoms line the soundings shoal very gradually. The 100-fathoms line of soundings is found at about 15 miles distant from cape Northumberland, 17 miles from capes Bridgewater and Nelson, and thence it increases its distance from the land until south-west of Moonlight head it is 40 miles off. It is about 50 miles from a line joining capes Otway and Wickham, and 30 miles from the west coast of King island. At the depth of 100 fathoms the bank of soundings appears to drop very suddenly. Seaward of this depth no bottom was obtained at 165 fathoms and 1.75 fathoms. Tides and tidal streams.— It is high water, full and change, at all places on this coast at nearly the same time, namely, Portland bay. Oh. 3(»m. ; port Fairy, Oh. 31m. ; Warrnambool, Oh. 37m. ; New Year islands (King island). Oh. 48m. : Surprise bay (south part of King island). Oh. 43m. ; Sea Elephant bay (King island), Oh. 50m. ; springs rise 3 feet. The tides and tidal streams are much affected by the winds, and are uncertain. A south-westerly or westerly breeze keeps up the flood or east-going tidal stream, and increases its rate ; an easterly breeze has an opposite effect. While the tides were observed in Surprise bay, an easterly gale had the effect of doing away entirely with one flood tide. 6^^ chart, No. 1,062. Chap, v.] SOUNDINGS.— TIDAL STREAMS.— CURRENTS. 411 Currents — In October, November, and December, when south- westerly breezes mostly prevail, a current may be expected to run to the eastward. In January, February, and March, a westerly current may be expected, but as these currents do not appear to be at any time continuous, they cannot with certainty be allowed for. They are stronger as the coast is approached, and strongest off the various headlands, such as capes Bridge water and Nelson, Moonlight head and particularly near cape Wickham. The barometer is a valuable companion on this coast, see' pages 18, 19. See chart, No. 1,062. 412 CHAPTER VI. AUSTRALIA. — SOUTH COAST ; WESTERN ENTRANCE OF BASS STRAIT, KING ISLAND, CAPE OTWAY TO PORT PHILLIP, AND PORT PHILLIP. VARIATION IN 1897. Oape Wickham - - 7° 45' E. | Port PhiUip entrance 8° 5' E. Nearly stationary. Since the discovery of Bass strait by an enterprising gentleman of that name, the surgeon of H.M.S. Reliance, in an open whale-boat from port Jackson, in 1798, it has been much used by vessels navigating to and from that port, and is a safe and generally much ;shorter route than south of Tasmania. BASS STRAIT separates Australia from Tasmania, it is about 200 miles long, nearly East and West, and 120 miles wide. The west •end between cape Otway and cape Grim, the north-west point of Tasmania, is 120 miles wide, but King island, which lies r^idway, occupies nearly 36 miles of this space. The safest entrance, 47 miles wide, is to the north-west, and the other entrance, 37 miles wide, to the south-east of the island ; the latter entrance, however, being much impeded by numerous dangers, is only recommended to the general navigator in cases of emergency. The east end of Bass strait is still more crowded with islands and rocks, more than 50 miles of the southern portion of the entrance being occupied by Flinders and Barren islands, the latter being separated from the north-east part of Tasmania by Banks strait. As the north portion of Bass strait contains the approach to port Phillip, and the most frequented route between the south and east See charts, No. 2,759&, Australia, southern portion, scale ^ = l-0 inch ; No. 1,063, Western approach to Bass strait, scale w= 0*19 inch ; No, 1,695« and h, Bass strait scale m = 0'2 inch ; No. 404, King island, scale m = 0-49 inch. Chap. VI.] BASS STRAIT.— KING ISLAND. 413 coasts of Australia, the navigator's attention will be first directed to this portion of the strait, together with the coast from cape Otway to Gabo island, including port Phillip ; the south portion, with the north coast of Tasmania, being described in chapters VII. and VIII. KING ISLAND, the north end of which forms the south-east side of the safest entrance into Bass strait from the westward, is. 36 miles long north and south, and 13 miles broad at the centre. Caution. — In approaching King island from the westward,, especially during thick or hazy weather, caution is required on account of the variable strength of the current, and the use of the lead is enjoined. Many fatal wrecks have occurred on this island,, from errors in reckoning, and in consequence of not making the land near cape Otway. Commanders of iron ships, especially of those newly built, are warned as to the necessity of ascertaining the deviation of their compasses on approaching the Australian coast. Soiinding'S of 60 or 70 fathoms are found at 25 to 30 miles westward of King island. Outside this limit the soundings deepen rapidly to no bottom at 100 fathoms. Inshore of 60 fathoms soundings the depths are irregular, but there are 30 fathoms at a distance of 4 miles to the north-west of cape Wickham. For further description, see page 423. The COAST. — From the point a mile south-westward of cape^ Wickham the coast is of the same nature for 2 miles as cape Wickham, and trends with a curve S. by W. | W. 8 miles to Whistler point. At 2 miles distant from the first-mentioned point some sunken rocks, extend to a distance of nearly three-quarters of a mile from the land ; and a sandy beach commences and continues to three-quarters of a mile of Whistler point. At the south-western end of the sandy beach there is good landing in nearly all weathers. A dilapidated' hut points out the landing-place. Three-quarters of a mile N. by E.. from Whistler point is Elizabeth rock, dry at low water. Numerou's. other rocks above water, as well as sunken, lie off the point in all directions. At 2 miles N.E. of Whistler point a fresh water- creek empties itself, At one mile S.E. by S. of the point the land rises to a height of 265 feet. CAPE WICKHAM, the north point of King island, is formed Setf chart, No. 404. 414 KING ISLAND. [Chap. VI. of gray granite, and bears S.E. by S. 48 miles from cape Otway. A few sunken rocks fringe it at the distance of a cable. North •of the cape the unevenness of the bottom and the strong tidal streams often cause a break at a much greater distance than the rocks extend. LIGHT. — Cape Wickham lighthouse is a white circular tower 145 feet high, exhibiting at 280 feet above high water a fixed white light of first order, which should be seen from a distance of 24 miles in clear weather. It lies 6 cables S.S.W. \ W. from the cape, and to the north-west of a round hill 300 feet high. The light is visible seaward between the bearings of N. 22^ E. and N. 76° W. When bearing N. 39° E. and within the distance of 19 miles the light is obscured by the highest part of North New Year island. A ray .of light is visible on a N. 70° W. bearing over a dip in the land. Caution. — The attention of mariners is called to the following extract from the report of the Lighthouse Commissioners appointed by the Colonial Government : — " In advising the erection of a light- house on King island, the Commissioners wish to guard themselves from affording the public any reasonable supposition that this light can be at all considered in the position of a great highway light for the navigation of Bass strait. The south coast of Australia, at the western end of the strait, being free from danger, affords in their opinion the safest route for the prudent mariner to approach, and they conceive that the light on King island is only to be regarded as a beacon for warning navigators of danger, rather than as a leading light to a great thoroughfare." Harbinger rocks.— East Harbinger rock lies N.W. by W. \ W. 3| miles from cape Wickham lighthouse, and consists of a group of sunken rocks about 200 yards in extent. In heavy weather, or when there is a swell, this reef breaks much more heavily than yie West Harbinger, but there are times when it will only occasionally break. The West Harbinger, lying W. by N. 4^ miles from cape Wickham lighthouse, has the appearance of a small flat-topped boulder about a foot above high water. A sunken rock, which does not always break, lies 1^ cables to the south-west. The Harbingers are \\ miles apart. There is deep water betweep See charts, No. 1,695& and No. 404. •Chap. VI.] WHISTLER POINT.— CAPE WICKHAM. 415 them, and from 9 to 14 fathoms all round. Irregular depths, varying from 15 to 28 fathoms, are found between them and the shore. Navarin reef lies N.N.E. ^ E. 2J miles from cape Wickham lighthouse, and 1^ miles from the shore. The principal part is a rock awash at high water, N.E. of which, at the distance of a cable, is another rock occasionally dry. The body of the reef is nearly half a mile long, in an E.N.E. and W.S.W. direction. The sea generally breaks on this reef. Victoria cove. — At one mile from cape Wickham, in a south- west direction, is a second cape, which may almost be considered as 3, part of the former. Between the two capes is Victoria cove ; it lias a small sandy beach, on which the sea breaks continuously and violently. This cove, being in the vicinity of the lighthouse, is used •as a landing place for stores. The lighthouse keeper has a large surf boat, which lessens the danger of landing, but no ordinary boat should attempt to land without a thorough understanding with the keeper that it is safe. The following signals are adopted : — A ball at the South yard-arm of the flagstaff, in addition to the ensign at the head of -the staff, and then lowered a little signifies that a boat can land at the cove. Ensign at South yard-arm. Vessels should anchor at New Year islands. Ensign at North yard-arm. Vessels should anchor on the east side of King island. Two fires on the point is a signal to a vessel waiting at New Year islands that there is safe landing at the cove. Notwithstanding these signals as to safety of landing it would be ^wise not to risk valuable lives in ill-adapted boats, but to let this •dangerous service be performed by those thoroughly acquainted with its nature, and supplied with proper appliances. New Year islands and Franklin road.— North New Year island lies S.W. ^ S. 7 miles from cape Wickham lighthouse, is curved In form, and about one mile long N.E. and S.W. ; its highest part, near the south-west end, is 117 feet above high water. A channel one-quarter of a mile broad, divides North from South New Year See chart, No. 404. 416 KING ISLAND. [Chap. VI. island. The latter island is three-quarters of a mile long, in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, and less than 100 feet high. East of these islands is Franklin road, an anchorage for small craft protected from all weathers, known locally as New Year islands anchorage. Between South New Year island and King island there is a distance of over a mile. Several rocks, some above water, others sunken,. occupy at nearly equal distances the whole of this space, leaving, however, channels of deep water between. As the sea breaks upon the various dangers the channels may be used in a case of necessity,. such as a vessel happening to get upon a lee shore. The anolioragre in Franklin road is in 5 or 6 fathoms water,, with the east point of North New Year island bearing N. by W., and a remarkable rock at the north extreme of South New Year island,, known as the Asses ears, bearing about S.W. The best guide for the anchorage is the absence of kelp. Kelp grows everywhere except in the tidal gutter setting between the islands ; here only is the bottom comparatively free from rocks. The anchorage ground being small in extent it is necessary to moor, unless in a small craft, for which there would be room nearer the shore. A moderate sized vessel must either moor, or anchor further out and be exposed to the swell, which, more than the wind, hffs to be guarded against at this- anchorage. Immediately a swell sets in, a spring should be placed on the cable, and care taken that the cable does not foul any sunken boulders, but this is not likely to happen in the position recommended. A small rock, generally above water, but sometimes covered, occupies what would otherwise be the best anchorage. Though the anchorage may be considered quite safe if the above precautions are taken, yet mariners are not advised to use it. Inde- pendently of the foul bottom, and the small extent of the anchorage ground, which will only accommodate one vessel, the tidal streams often run too strong to enable a ship to pick up a berth as wished. A schooner was in this way forced to take up an outer berth, and was only saved from wreck by a steam vessel towing her into a. place of safety. The principal use of Franklin road anchorage is as a place of waiting for the vessel bringing stores for or wishing to communicate with the lighthouse. See chart, N^^. 1,694, Anchorages in Bass strait ; scale of Franklin road^ «! = 1*0 inch. Chap. VI.] FRANKLIN ROAD.— NETHERBY POINT. 417 Tides and tidal streams.— It is high water, full and change, at New Year islands at h. 48 m. ; springs rise 3 feet. The stream turns, in fine weather, at high or low water, but is greatly affected by prevailing winds. Supplies. — Crayfish are numerous here, and occasionally other fish abound. The mutton-bird, the flesh of which is eaten and the oil used for tanning purposes, has a breeding place on New Year islands, and arrives regularly every year from the 23rd to the 28th of November, to deposit its eggs. There is a watering place in the south-east corner of North New Year island facing the anchorage. Snakes are numerous. The COAST.— Netherby point lies S. i E. 12 miles from Whistler point. The intervening coast presents a very uniform appearance ; the coast ranges are densely timbered, and about 300 feet in height. The coast is broken up into small bays, with off -lying rocks generally above high water, but sometimes sunken. The sunken rocks in some cases extend to a distance of three-quarters of a mile from the shore, and outside of these there is much foul ground, which, with tidal streams and a westerly swell, often make a breaking sea, leading anyone unacquainted with the coast to imagine rocks everywhere. At 1| miles southward of Whistler point there is a small sand-patch ; and at 7^ miles from the former there is a very conspicuous long and bare sand-hill, at the foot of which there is a sandy beach. At 3J miles W.S.W. from the sand-hill, and 8^ miles S. | W. from Whistler point, is a patch of foul ground, which often breaks, but upon which when not breaking not less than 6 fathoms water could be found. N.W. | W. 2 miles from Netherby point is a rock awash at low water, which breaks heavily. From Netherby point the land trends about S.S.E. for nearly 2 miles to Waterwitch point. From Waterwitch point the coast trends south-easterly for 2 miles to a conspicuous long sand-hill similar to that to the northward, and thence the coast, of the same broken and rocky character, trends S. by E. 5J miles to Fitzmaurice bay. Waterwitch reef. — At a distance of 2 miles South of Water- witch point is Waterwitch reef. See chart, No. i04. SO 11712 S D 418 KING ISLAND. [Chap. VI. This reef with the foul ground adjacent is nearly a mile in extent but the centre is the only part which continuously breaks. Midway between Waterwitch reef and the shore is a rock which uncovers, and between it and Waterwitch point it is all foul ground. Currie harbour lies just to the southward of Netherby point, and affords shelter from all winds. It is only adapted for small craft, such as frequent the island for the skins of seals or kangaroos. LIGHT. — Currie harbour lighthouse, on the south side of the harbour, is 70 feet high, built of iron with a central tube for the staircase and supported on 6 columns, the whole painted white. It exhibits at 150 feet above high water a flashing white light of the first order, which shows a flash every 12 seconds, and which should be seen in clear weather from a distance of 17 miles. The light is visible through an arc of 180°, from New Year islands on the north, to Cataraque point on the south. FITZMAURICE BAY affords good shelter in easterly winds in about 10 fathoms sand, off the sandy beach in the depth of the bay. A sand-patch is a good guide to the locality. As the wind usually veers from East round northerly to N.W. and West, and as the westerly change is often very sudden, this bay can only be used with caution. Water. — There is a good fresh water stream near the northern corner of the sandy beach, but a heavy surf will nearly always be found. Cataraque point is on the south-west side of Fitzmaurice bay. It lies from Netherby point S. by E. i E. 9 miles. At a cable N.W. there are a few sunken rocks, some of which are awash at low water. From Cataraque point the coast, which has an elevation of about 300 feet, and is here bold and cliffy, trends S.S.E. for 3 J miles to Surprise point, eastward of which is the bay of the same name. Surprise point. — Rocks above water extend a quarter of a mile 80uth of this point, and between it and the opposite point of Surprise bay is a rock just above high water, with a group of sunken See chart, No. 404. *€hap. VI.] WATERWITCH REEF. — STOKES POINT. 411^ rocks lying round it. South of Surprise point the land falls .suddenly to 100 feet in height. Surprise bay is much used by sealers and small craft visiting the island. It affords good protection in all weathers for this class of vessels, the sea being broken upon the group of rocks in the centre of the bay. In strong westerly winds the bay cannot be • entered. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, in Surprise bay at Oh. 43m. ; springs rise 3 feet. During the period tidal observations were being taken an easterly gale had the effect of doing away with one flood tide, showing how the tides are influenced by the winds. See page 410. STOKES POINT, the south end of King island, lies S.E. J E. 3^ miles from Surprise point ; it is only a few feet above high water, and has the appearance of a group of boulders, over and outside which the sea is constantly breaking ; there are a few sunken rocks south of the point at 1^ cables from the high -water line. At one mile North of the point the land has an elevation of 144 feet, and falls gradually on the opposite side to about 100 feet. In rounding Stokes point care must be taken to give it a good wide berth ; the low point and the rocks lying off it appear more distant than they are in reality, in consequence of the gradually rising hill to the northward. Seal bay. — From Stoker point the east coast of King island trends North for about a mile, and then N.W. half a mile to the sandy beach of Seal bay. Middle point, on the north side of Seal bay, bears from Stokes point N. ^ E. 2J miles. Off Middle point, half tide and sunken rocks extend in an E.S.E direction for . half a mile. Anch.orag'e. — The anchorage in Seal bay is near the centre, in 7 to 8 fathoms water, over coarse sand of a loose nature, with the eastern part of Stokes point just open of the next point to the northward. Seal bay, though seemingly protected from the prevailing winds, is actually exposed, for easterly winds are of more frequent occurrence here than on the Victorian coast ; the bay has a bleak and See chart, No. 404 and plan, Seal bay, on No, 1,Q94, ecale m = 10 inch. SO 11712 ID 2 420 KING ISLAND. [Chap. VI.- warning appearance, and sealers never use it, as they prefer the safer anchorage upon the opposite side of the island in Surprise bay. A sailing vessel is recommended to anchor in Seal bay in about 10 fathoms water, outside the anchorage ground above given. A swell setting into the bay, or indications of an easterly wind, should be the signal for a vessel to get under weigh. Seal rock, 12 feet high, lies N.E. by E. 1^ miles from Stokes point ; at 1^ cables S. by E. ^ E. from Seal rock is a smaller rock which uncovers at low water ; a few sunken rocks lie near it. East of Seal rock, at a distance of IJ miles, are several rocky patches, Stanley rocks, with less than one fathom upon them ; between these and Seal rock the general depth is about 7 fathoms, but there is one patch of 3 fathoms at 4 cables from the rock, and another of 5 fathoms at three-quarters of a mile. No shoaler water could be found, but in stormy weather the sea breaks the whole distance from Seal rock to> the outer rocky patches. The COAST.— Black point lies N.N.E. i E. 3J miles from Stokes point, and may almost be considered the north-east point of Seal bay* Over the point there is a hummock 113 feet high, and to the north- ward over the coast there is a higher range of conspicuous sandy hummocks. The point itself is a black rock about 30 feet high ; and half a mile eastward of it, but only one quarter of a mile from the nearest shore, is a rock above water, with sunken rocks between. it and the land. Two miles N.E. ^ E. from Black point is another small point, at the back of which the land rises, and off which to the south-east, at a distance of 2 cables, is a small rock above water. At one mile N.E. J E. from the latter point is a smaller point, off which on a S.S. E. J E. bearing, and at a distance of 4 and 7 cables respectively,, are the Brig and South Brig rocks. At the back of this land King island attains its greatest elevation, namely, 700 feet. Brig" rock , so called from its resemblance to a brig under sail is 45 feet high ; there is deep water between it and the shore, and between it and South Brig rock. South Brig" rock is 40 feet high, and of much greater extent than Brig rock ; it has no resemblance to a vessel under sail, but is See charts, No. 404 and No. 1,694. 'Chap. VI.] SEAL BAY.— SEA ELEPHANT BAY. 421 more easily seen, from its black appearance. A few detached rocks lie off it to the southward, and the sea breaks one cable off its south -side. South Brig rock bears from Seal rock N.E. ^ N. distant 4^ miles. The coast abreast should not be closely approached in light winds on account of the swell which usually breaks upon the rocks fronting it. Bold point bears from South Brig rock N.E. by N. 5 miles. Several small points and bays occupy the space between ; the first half of the distance has several rocks, most of them above high water, lying about 3 cables off the shore. Over the point the coast range has an elevation of 630 feet, and is densely timbered. Three- quarters af a mile S.W. by S. from Bold point there is a point with a small detached rock forming its south extreme ; at a cable off this, are a few sunken rocks. From Bold point the coast trends N. by E. 4 miles, and North 3 miles to the south point of Sea Elephant bay. This coast is broken and almost steep-to. Small sandy beaches vary its rocky character, and over it are densely timbered ranges about 500 feet in height, which at the south point of Sea Elephant bay trend away to the north-westward. 'SEA ELEPHANT BAY, nearly 6 miles broad, and 1^ miles deep, is open to the eastward ; its extreme points bear from each other N. by W. and S. by E. Off its north point, on an East bearing and distant 1^ miles is Sea Elephant rock, 76 feet high and nearly a quarter of a mile in extent. Bc^tween the point and the rock is a •channel of about 3 fathoms water. At one mile N. | E. from Sea Elephant rock is Sea Elephant reef, which at very low tides is uncovered about 2 feet ; there is foul ground round it, half a mile in extent. A cable to the south-west of Sea Elephant rock is a rock above water, near which are a few sunken rocks. Anchorage. — Sea Elephant bay affords a safe anchorage during westerly gales, and the wind generally, when the weather is clearing, veers to the southward. The bottom throughout the bay is sand, or sand and shells, and there is anchorage anywhere in about 9 fathoms, but the centre of the bay, in a line between its south point and Sea Elephant rock, is most convenient, where there is nothing in the way of a vessel getting to sea on the first appearance of a fresh breeze See chart, No. 4)4. 422 KING ISLAND. [Chap. VI from the eastward. In the summer months there is much easterly weather, and a swell rolls in. Water. — In the southern part of the bay there is a good fresh water stream. Also an abundance of firewood. Elephant bank. — East of Sea Elephant bay, at nearly 7 miles from the shore, there is a bank with 22 feet water upon it ; the bank generally has a depth of 4J and 5 fathoms, sand, and at this depth is 3 miles long, in a N. by W. and S. by E. direction. From the north or shoalest part, Sea Elephant rock bears W. J N. about 4 J miles. . Midway between the bank and the shore the water deepens to 12 and 14 fathoms, and thence shoals gradually again, until at half a mile from the shore there are 5 fathoms. As the sea breaks heavily on the bank in strong winds, Sea Elephant bay should be approached with caution. Tides and tidal streams.— It is high water, full and change, in Sea Elephant bay at h. 50 m. ; springs rise 3 feet. The flood stream runs to the northward and the ebb to the southward, at springs 1^ knots. The turn of the stream is influenced by the wind ; in fine weather it occurs at high and at low water. The COAST.— From the north point of Sea Elephant bay the coast, consisting of low sand-hummocks, trends N. by W. } W.. y^ miles to Lavinia point. At one mile distant from the north point of the bay is Sea Elephant river, a small stream accessible at high water to small craft drawing 3 feet water ; at the back is a swamp. Midway, and at 2 miles inland, is a double-topped hill, densely timbered, 338 feet in height, known as Sea Elephant hill. Lavinia point, the north-east extremity of King island, is low and sandy ; thence the coast, which continues sandy, trends N.W. ^ W. 3 J miles to Boulder point, so named from a large granite boulder which forms it. At 1^ miles to the north-west of Lavinia point is a conspicuous sand-patch. A few sunken rocks lie off Boulder point, and a shoal with 10 feet water, extends from the point N. by W. ^ W. three-quarters of a mile. The meeting of the tidal streams has caused a heaping up of the sand in the vicinity of Lavinia point, and it is not uncommon for coasters to anchor in westerly gales in about 9 fathoms upon the bank thus- cliart, No. 404. Chap. VI.] LAVINIA POINT. — SOUNDINGS. 423 formed. If the gale should have settled into a westerly one this anchorage is as safe as Sea Elephant bay, and it is handier for proceeding westward when the weather clears. At one mile to the north-west of Boulder point is a large and conspicuous sand-patch, much more conspicuous than that between Lavinia and Boulder points. Dougllboy rock. — The coast from Boulder point trends N.W. for 3 miles to another point, ofiE which, at one cable, is a rock awash ; W. by N. ^ N. 1| miles from the latter point lies a rock above water known as the Doughboy, and a reef dry at low water connects it with the shore, from which it is distant 3 cables. Doughboy rock lies E. ^ S. one mile from cape Wickham. There is a passage of deep water between it and Navarin reef {see page 415), but the tidal stream often runs strong and causes a rip. The passage is not recommended. SOUNDINGS. — The 30-fathoms line, commencing at about 4 miles N.W. of cape Wickham, just outside Harbinger rocks, follows the curve of the land, and passes New Year islands at a mile distant, thence down the west coast of King island at a distance of about 3 miles until at 5 miles N.W. of Netherby point it is distant 5 miles from the adjacent coast. Here are 21 fathoms and 22 fathoms with much foul ground leading to the rocky patch of 6 fathoms already described. Thence the 30-fathoms line approaches to within 3 miles of Netherby point, increasing its distance from the land to 4 miles, but again nearing the land at Cataraque point, where it is distant only one mile. At Surprise point it is distant only half a mile, and at Stokes point nearly a mile, whence it becomes a very irregular line trending first easterly, and then towards Reid rocks. See page 413. At 6 miles W. by S. from Stokes point there is a rocky patch, on which not less than 10 fathoms were found ; it is probable that the sea breaks here in bad weather. On the east side of King island the soundings are less than ;50 fathoms. Twenty-one miles to the eastward of Sea Elephant bay is a depth of 25 fathoms, sand, and 23 miles to the eastward of Lavinia point 24 fathoms, fine white sand. From these positions towards the island the water appears to shoal very gradually, while eastward it appears to deepen as gradually. North of the island the See charts, No. 404 and No. 1,695&. 424 CAPE OTWAY TO PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. VI. 30-fathoms line is 2 miles North from cape Wickham, it passes Navarin reef a mile distant, and trends easterly. Currents and tidal streams. — Off cape Wickham there is occasionally a very strong current, which may be more correctly termed a tidal stream accelerated by the wind. Close to the cape it is said to run occasionally as much as 5 knots, but 2 knots is the ordinary rate at spring tides. The current loses in force as its distance from the shore increases. It is probable that a westerly gale keeps up the flood stream which here sets to the eastward, and an easterly gale has an opposite effect. Southward and westward of King island the currents or tidal streams are irregular ; they are known at times to be very strong, but they were never experienced of any strength during the survey of the island. Sealers have reported that in the strait between King island and Tasmania a current sets eastward during easterly weather ; if this be so in the centre of the strait it is likely that in-shore on both sides there is a stream setting in an opposite direction. CAPE OTWAY TO PORT PHILLIP. Parker river. — From cape Otway the coast trends E. by N. 2 miles to Franklin point, which is low and sandy, with some rocks lying near it. At three-quarters of a mile North of this point is the mouth of the small river Parker, where the end of the Tas- manian submarine cable is, and where the lighthouse stores are landed. As there is usually a heavy surf at the mouth of the river, it is dangerous to attempt a landing there. Tlie COAST. — From Franklin point the coast trends nearly N.E. J N. 43 miles to Addis point, and begins with high dark- coloured cliffs, backed by densely wooded hills, rising to the height of 2,297 feet, at N.N.E. | E. 25 miles from cape Otway, and extending to within 5 miles of Addis point. At about 8 miles north-eastward tSee charts, No. 1,695&, and No. 1.063, Western approach to Bass strait, scale « = 0'19 inch. «Chap. VI.] HENTY REEF. — APOLLO BAY. 425 -of Addis point the coast changes to sand-hummocks, backed by undulating hills, with patches of wood, and farm-houses. From Blanket bay, a small bight 1^ miles N.E. by N. of Parker river, the coast trends N.E. by N. and East 4 miles to Storm point, and thence N.N.E. ^ E. 2J miles to Bunbury point. Hayley reef, Just above high water, projects half a mile from the shore between the two points. HENTY REEF, N.E. | E. 9| miles from cape Otway light- house, is a dangerous reef, with 18 feet water over it, on which the ■' sea breaks heavily in moderate weather. It is steep-to, with 6 to 10 fathoms all round within a cable of its shoalest part. Beacons.' — The position of Henty reef is shown by the intersec- tion of two lines drawn through four pillar-beacons, each surmounted by a ball. Two of these beacons, which are 200 yards apart, and when in line bear West, the inshore one being white, and the outer black, are situated one-third of a mile S.W. of Hayley point, and two- thirds of a mile N.E. by N. of Storm point. The other two beacons are 285 yards apart, when in line bear N.W. ^ N., the north-west one being white, the other red, and are .situated on Bunbury point. Directions. — If bound to the north-east, keep the black beacon near Storm point well open north of the white one until the white • beacon on Bunbury point opens well to the north-east of the red beacon. In proceeding to the south-west, keep the outer or red beacon on Bunbury point well open south of the white one until the white beacon near Storm point is well open south of the black beacon. APOLLO BAY, on the north-east side of Bunbury point, lies just under a high part of the Otway range, and may be known by the beacons on the point, and the few houses at the northern part of the bay. There is generally a heavy swell in the bay. A reef, on which the sea breaks, extends off Bunbury point for ' one-third of a mile. The settlement is called Krambruk and is a favourite watering place ; there are mails twice a week from Melbourne. The population is about 250. See chart, No. 1,694, plan Apollo bay, scale m = 3*0 inches. 42G CAPE OTWAY TO PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. VI. Jetty. — A jetty extends about 360 yards to the north-east from a position just to the northward of the red beacon on Bunbury point. Ligrllt. — k. fixed TQd. light, 25 feet above high water, is exhibited from a lamp post at the outer end of the jetty in Apollo bay, and should be visible from a distance of 3 miles in clear weather. Anclioragre. — There is anchorage during westerly winds in Apollo bay in from 4^ to 7 fathoms water. Vessels must be prepared for a change of wind to the South or S.E. Moorings. — There are two mooring buoys on the north side of the jetty, the outer buoy in 14 feet bears N.N.E. \ E. 60 fathoms, and the inner buoy in 7 feet bears N.W. by W. \ W. 30 fathoms from the jetty. Cape Patton, N.E. \ E. 8^ miles from Bunbury point, is a bold dark-looking wooded head, at S.W. 1^ miles from which a 1;^ to 2 fathoms shoal projects half a mile from the shore ; and at N.E. J N. 1^ miles from the cape a 12 feet spit extends half a mile from Hawdon point. From this point the coast extends N.N.E. | E. 9 miles to Grey point, a low grassy projection, with a reef extending one-third of a mile from it, and forming the south side of Louttit bay. LOUTTIT BAY may be recognised by a square land-mark 30 feet high, surmounted by a staff and ball, and erected on the adjacent coast range. Louttit reef, with 6 to 10 fathoms water on it, extends off Grey point E. by N. IJ miles. Lome, a watering place and the settlement in Louttit bay, had a population of 260 in 1891 ; there are 3 mails a week from Melbourne, and there is a telegraph ofl&ce. Jetty. — There is a jetty 600 feet long at Lome in Louttit bay. Lig*llt. — K fixed green light, 27 feet above high water, and visible 3 miles in clear weather, is exhibited from the end of the jetty. This light is white over the inner end of the jetty. Ajlicliorage, in from 4 to 7 fathoms water, may be obtained in Louttit bay. The anchorage in this bay is preferable to that in Apollo bay, there being less swell. Sailing vessels anchoring in this^ See charts, No. 1,6115 J, and No. 1,()94, plan Louttit bay, scale m ^ 8*0 inches. Chap. VI.] LOUTTIT BAY. — F.AGLE NEST POINT. 427' bay, with westerly gales, must prepare for a change of wind, as it often chops round to South, and sometimes to S.E. Mooring'S. — There is a red mooring buoy in Louttit bay in 12 feet,. 45 fathoms north-west of the jetty end. Eagle Nest point (Split point), N.E. J N. 7 miles from Grey point, is of a reddish-brown colour, and appears like three cliffs close together, divided by dark ravines. Eagle Nest reef, which is awash,, projects half a mile from the shore at two-thirds of a mile N.E. of Eagle Nest point. LIGHT. — Eagle Nest point lighthouse is constructed of concrete,, coloured white, and is 83 feet high. It exhibits at 218 feet above high water a fixed light of the first order, which should be seen from a distance of 18 miles in clear weather. The light is red seaward through an arc of about 150^, visible from 1^ miles off Addis point to the north-east, to one mile off cape Patton to the south-west ; inshore towards the land it is white. An auxiliary y?^e(i white light, visible from a distance of 3 miles > and through an arc of 180° seaward, is also shown from this lighthousBc It is invisible, from a height of 14 feet above the sea, until within the distance of about 3 miles from it. The white lights are to warn mariners of too close approach to the- land. Demons bay. — Between Eagle Nest reef and Addis point, at N.E. \ E. 7^ miles from it, the coast forms two bights, separated by Roadnight point, the north-eastern being Demons bay. At N. by E. one mile from Roadnight point is a creek, with a sunken rock close off it, between which and Addis point there are two rocks above water ; these are the Ingoldsby reefs, and they break heavily. Addis point.— From Addis point the coast trends N.E. J N. 5 miles to Zealey point, whence it curves N.E. and East 9^ miles to Barwon head. Victoria reef, on which there are 15 feet of water, lies-. E. by N. I N. IJ miles from Zealey point, with which it is connected by a bank, that continues along the coast to Barwon head ; at midway it only extends a quarter of a mile from the shore. Ant spit, on See chart, No. 1,6955. 428 POET PHILLIP. [Chap. VI. which there are 12 feet water, projects from this bank to 2| miles W. by S. of the head. BA.RWON HEAD is a saddle-shaped scrubby hummock 122 feet high, appearing from seaward like an island, on account of the low land in its rear. This head forms the south side of Barwon river, which boats can only enter with very smooth water. On the north bank of this river, at about 10 miles to the north-west of its mouth, is situated the important town of Geelong. There is a telephone station at the head in communication with the telegraph, but communication cannot be made by the commercial code of signals. An automatic signal buoy is placed off Barwon head, west side of port Phillip entrance. The buoy is moored in 12 fathoms water, with Barwon head bearing N.W., distant about 1^ miles. Oharleniont reef, S.W. by W. one mile from Barwon head, is a detached 9-feet patch, with deep water about it. Tlie COAST. — From Barwon river the low sandy coast curves -eastward nearly 6 miles to point Lonsdale, the outer point on the west side of the entrance to port Phillip. A spit having 9 to 15 feet water on it projects one mile eastward from the mouth of the river, whence a continuous rocky shoal, nearly half a mile broad, with 6 to 16 feet water on it, extends to point Lonsdale. From the edge of this shoal to 3| miles off shore the soundings gradually increase to 28 and 30 fathoms. PORT PHILLIP includes all inlets, rivers, bays, and harbours contained within a line drawn from point Lonsdale to point Nepean, and not included in the ports of Melbourne, the metropolis of the colony of Victoria, and Geelong. It is situated at the head of an -extensive bight between cape Otway on the west, and Wilson promontory, 130 miles to the eastward of the cape. In approaching the port from the westward, the entrance is not easily distinguished until point Nepean, the eastern entrance head, bears N.N.E., when Shortland bluff, on which the highest and leading lighthouses are •erected, shows out, and the estuary becomes visible. If Barwon head is previously seen, the entrance of port Phillip is easily found by its relative position with that head. S(.'e charts, Nos. 1,171a and &, port Phillip, scale m-=.VO inch ; Noa. 2,74:7a and h, jport Phillip entrance, scale wt = 3"0 inches ; No. l,fi9oZ». Chap. VI.] BARWON HEAD.— POINT LONSDALE. 42^ Port Phillip extends about 32 miles, north and south, is 18 miles wide, exclusive of an arm which trends 16 miles in a W.S.W. direction to Geelong, and is capable of receiving and sheltering a large number of ships ; but the entrance is less than 2 miles wide,.. and nearly one-half of it is occupied by rocks and shoals. Deptll in cliannels. — The least depth of water which must be passed over in the channels of port Phillip between the sea and Hobson bay is, — in the West channel 18 feet, in the South channel 28 feet ; and in the Hopetoun channel to Geelong 23 feet, at low water. POINT LONSDALE, the western head of the entrance to port Phillip, is low and juts out from a dark rocky cliff, it being neither so high nor so well marked in outline as point Nepean, the eastern head ; but can now be easily distinguished by a lighthouse, look-out house, and a tidal signal flagstaff. Sigrnal station. — There is a signal station at point Lonsdale^ lighthouse and communication can be made by the commercial code.. It is connected by telephone with Queenscliff telegraph station. Lonsdale reef, the greater part of which dries at low water,, projects a quarter of a mile south-eastward from point Lonsdale, and is about 200 yards broad, having dangerous rocky patches extending nearly 400 yards farther to the south-east, with 5 fathoms . water close outside them. LIGHT. — On point Lonsdale, from the lighthouse which is 54 feet high, and painted red and black in alternate bands, is exhibited a fixed light, which can be seen in clear weather from a distance of 10 miles. The light is green seaward when bearing about N. 11° W. to N. 50° W. ; and red towards point Nepean between • the bearings of N. 50° W. and S. 79° W. ; the red is of a deeper shade between the bearings of N. 79° W. and S. 79° W. Vessels having the green light in sight are outside, and with the red in sight, inside Lonsdale rock, which bears S.E. ^ E. (S. 51° E.), distant nearly two-thirds of a mile from the light. The blending- of the two colours shows that a vessel is in the vicinity of, or in line with this danger ; great caution is therefore necessary before these colours begin to blend. See charts, No. 1,1 7 la and No. 2,747«. 430 PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. VI. Fog" signal. — During thick or foggy weather a siren on point Lonsdale produces a high pitched note of about /owr seconds duration every two minutes, which should be heard under favourable circumstances from a distance of 3 to 4 miles. In the event of the siren being disabled, fog signal rockets are fired •GYer J Jive minutes. Lifeboat. — A lifeboat is maintained at point Lonsdale in case of shipwreck. PILOTS. — There is a pilot establishment at port Phillip heads ; the vessels are fore-and-aft schooner rigged, painted a light stone ■colour, each with her number on her main-sail. They cruise 'from 3 to 15 miles outside the heads, borrowing on either shore -according to the weather ; and one of them is constantly outside when there is a possibility of keeping the sea. The middle <^ruising ground is comprised within a radius of 7 miles from a point midway betAveen port Phillip heads to seaward. The outer cruising ground extends from the outer boundary of the ■middle cruising ground to a line drawn from Zealey point to a point bearing S.W. by S. 15 miles from a point midway between port Phillip heads, from that point E. | N. until Arthur's seat bears N.E. J N. and thence on that bearing to the land. The pilot-vessels carry at the main mast-head by day a red and Avhite flag in horizontal stripes, and between sunset and sunrise -exhibit a white light at the fore mast-head, and show a flash-light •every quarter-hour. When nearing the pilot schooner, vessels requiring a pilot should be stopped dead or hove to, giving such schooner the lee, to enable .the pilot to board in safety. Vessels which miss the pilot-vessel will be boarded by a pilot from a whale-boat, when they are inside point Lonsdale. But no stranger should attempt to enter without taking a pilot ; although the channels are so carefully lighted and buoyed that it is •quite possible to do so. Signals. — Vessels steering for port Phillip are bound to show the usual signal for a pilot when within 12 miles of the entrance. At night,* vessels requiring a pilot should show a blue light every fifteen minutes ; or a bright white light flashed or shown at short or frequent intervals, just above the bulwarks, for about a minute at a time. See chart, No. 2,747«. Chap. VI.] PILOTS.— TIDAL SIGNALS. 431 Vessels which are exempt from pilotage must, on arriving within 12 miles of the entrance, have a large white flag flying at the main mast-head until past Swan point, under a heavy penalty, to prevent the pilots' time being unnecessarily taken up running after vessels which do not require their services. Tidal signals are shown at point Lonsdale, denoting the quarter «of the tide with reference to the stream. The flood or in-going* stream— During the first quarter is denoted by a blue flag half-mast. „ second quarter ,, ,, „ at mast-head. „ third quarter „ „ red flag half-mast. „ fourth quarter ,, „ „ at mast-head. The ebb ^or out-going stream. — The same signals are used for the four quarters of this stream ; with a ball below the flag. By attention to these signals a mariner will know the state of the tidal stream, which cannot be always ascertained by the usual process of finding the time of high-water, its strength and duration being much influenced by the wind and weather. The signal-keeper has instructions, if he sees vessels approaching the heads and running into danger, to warn them by signals ; strangers should therefore watch these signals. For tides and tidal streams, see pages 493-4. Tide signals for South channel, see page 442. POINT NEPEAN. — The eastern head of the entrance to port Phillip is the narrow western termination of a peninsula, which extends 15 miles in a westerly direction from Arthur's seat, and consists of a series of sand-hummocks slightly covered with low bushes, and having a beacon on its extremity. This beacon is a white triangle, 20 feet high, with a square on top. Nepean reef and rock. — Nepean reef projects westward nearly 400 yards from point Nepean to Nepean rock, a small islet, on which is a red triangular-shaped beacon, 25 feet high, with a ball on top ; thence the reef and several pinnacle rocks outside it extend 700 yards farther west to Corsair rock, 150 feet to the N.N.E. of See chart, No. 2,7 i7 a. 432 PORT PHILLIP. [Chap, vi.. which is a small detached rock with 10 feet water on it. Nepean reef dries at low water out for 700 yards from the point. The northern edge of the rocky ledge along Nepean reef trends from Corsair rock E. by N. to 200 yards north of point Nepean. The coast outside point Nepean is bordered by a continuation of this reef and numerous rocks ; but they do not extend off more than 200 to 300 yards and the coast may be approached to a third of a mile in 5 fathoms. Corsair rock, the outer end of Nepean reef, is 20 feet in diameter, having 8 feet water over it with 3, 4, and 5 fathoms close to ; this rock lies with the red beacon on Nepean rock in line with the white beacon on point Nepean, bearing E. J S. (S. 87° E.), , ENTRANCE. — The entrance to port Phillip, between points Lonsdale and Nepean, is If miles wide, but the navigable channel is contracted to a little less than one mile in width between the reefs that project from these points. Lonsdale rock, S.E. ^ E. (S. 51° E.) a little more than half a mile from point Lonsdale, with 18 feet water on it, lies on the west side of the fairway. Depths of 24 feet water extend about one cable to the south and east of Lonsdale rock. In the entrance fairway, between these depths and Corsair rock there is a least depth of 30 feet at low water. Caution. — Outside the bank there are 9 to 14, and inside 10 to 47 fathoms. This great inequality, with tidal streams at times running 5 to 7 knots, causes the well-known race, or " rip,'' between port Phillip heads, which during or immediately after a north- westerly gale breaks so furiously as to be dangerous to small vessels. Leading* marks. — The two lighthouses on Shortland bluff in line, N.E. by N. (N. 34° E.), lead through the fairway of the entrance into port Phillip in not less than 30 feet. See page 434. Tiie tAvo beacons in Lonsdale bight kept in line N.N.W. \ W. (N. 25° W.) lead in with not less than 42 feet at low- water spring tides. See page 477. Vessels drawing less than 14 feet may, in the daytime, pass Sue chart, No. 2,747«. Chap. VI.] ENTRANCE. — QUEBNSCLIFP. 433 between Lonsdale reef and rock by keeping Swan point just open east of Shortland blufe, bearing N.E. ^ N. (N. 44° E.). Swan beacon (white with a red top) open of Shortland bluff, bearing N.E. ^ N. (N. 39° E.), leads half a cable to the eastward of Lonsdale rock. Corsair rock is cleared by keeping the low lighthouse on Shortland bluff in line with the east end of the houses near the high lighthouse N.N.E. J E. (N. 25° E.), until the white beacon on point Nepean is well open to the north of the red beacon, when going in, or well open to the south, when going out. THE WESTERN SHORE of port Phillip from point Lonsdale curves northward and eastward, forming a bay which extends from the point N.E. by E. 2^ miles to the south end of Shortland bluff, and is three-quarters of a mile deep ; it is mostly occupied by shoals with irregular soundings between them, extending from the shore to a line from point Lonsdale to Shortland bluff ; the only part of the bay which appears free from shoals and has tolerably regular soundings is within about one mile of Shortland bluff ; even here anchorage is not recommended. At three-quarters of a mile to the northward of point Lonsdale is a cemetery, near the shore, from which a low coast-range extends to Shortland bluff. The telegraph passes close along the shore, and behind the coast-range from point Lonsdale to Shortland bluff. Victory shoal lies nearly in the centre of the above bay, its outer edge, on which there are 11 to 14 feet water, being in line between point Lonsdale and Shortland bluff ; the least depth of water on the shoal is about 6 feet. Queenscliff, at the entrance of port Phillip, is about 32 miles from Melbourne by water, and 65 miles by land. Two trains run daily to and from Geelong, 20 miles distant ; and a steam vessel plies three times a week to and from Melbourne. When the weather permits the intercolonial steam vessels embark and disembark passengers. All vessels arriving from foreign ports are boarded here by the health officer. Tt is much used by visitors as a watering and bathing place. The population was 1,905 in 1891. See chart, No. 2,74 7rt. SO 11712 2 E 434 PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. vi. Shortland bluff, on which are two lighthouses and a red stone obelisk 40 feet high, with the town of Queenscliff in their rear, is the south-east extreme of a peninsula projecting nearly 2 miles in a north-easterly direction from the line of coast, with which it is connected by an isthmus little more than 200 yards broad. The peninsula is about half a mile broad at Shortland bluff, from whence it gradually contracts to the north-eastward, where it terminates in a low narrow point. LIGHTS.— The high lighthouse on Shortland bluff, which bears N.E. I E. (N. 53° E.), distant 2^ miles from point Lonsdale, is a tower 81 feet high, built of blue stone, which retains its natural colour. It exhibits at 130 feet above high water a fixed white light, which may be seen from a distance of 17 miles in clear weather. The light is visible seaward between the bearings of about N. 79° E. and North ; but when close in with the land about point Lonsdale, it is only visible between N. 56° E. and North. Within port Phillip the light is visible when bearing from N. 56° E., round by north and west, to S. 56° W. Low llgrht. — The low lighthouse tower, 69 feet high, painted white, with a dark red lantern, stands S.W. by S. (S. 34° W.) 352 yards from the high lighthouse, and at the height of 90 feet above high water exhibits a fixed light, showing white when bearing from about N. 56° E. to N. 39° E., red from N. 39° E. to N. 22° E., and white from N. 22° E. round by north, to N. 79° W. It also shows red between the bearings of S. 59° W. to S. 65° W., as a guide in the fairway from Swan spit to between No. 1 and No. 2 Royal George gas buoys. The white light should be seen in clear weather at a distance of 14 miles, and the red at 10 miles. In entering port Phillip keep Shortland bluff low red light in line with the high white light bearing N.E. by N. (N. 34° E.). The change of colour of the low light from red to white indicates an approach to Lonsdale rock on the west, or to Corsair rock and Nepean reef on the east side of the entrance. The low white light between the bearings of N. 56° E. and N. 39° E. shows over the dangers extending from point Lonsdale. Between the bearings of N. 22° E. and N. 79^ W. the light shows white over the Corsair rock and through the South channel^ passing along the black buoys which mark the north side of the channel, so that vessels See chart, No. 2,747a. ^hap. VI.] SHORTLAND BLUFF LIGHTS. — SWAN ISLAND. 435 with light winds or adverse tidal streams, may be aided by a bearing of the light. Queenscliff jetty, N.N.E. nearly half a mile from the high lighthouse, projects about 130 yards from the shore, and has a fixed red light at its end, visible at a distance of 4 miles. Queenscliff new j etty, rather more than a cable southward of the old jetty, is about 360 yards long. Two fixed green lights, visible from a distance of 3 miles in clear weather, are exhibited from lamp- posts on the new jetty, one at the inner corner of [_ end, the other about 200 feet therefrom on the north side of the jetty. Buoyage. — Three buoys, two of which are white and one black, are placed in 7 to 10 feet water off Queenscliff new jetty, and define a channel leading thereto not less than 200 feet wide and 12 feet deep. Vessels proceeding to the jetty from seaward leave the black buoy on the port side. Life-boat. — There is a life-boat station at Queenscliff new jetty. Swan island is low, with several small lagoons on it, and is •separated from the north-east point of Shortland peninsula by a shallow opening 100 yards wide, communicating' with Swan bay to the westward. From this opening, the south side of Swan island trends nearly E.N.E. \\ miles, and thence the east side sweeps three- quarters of a mile northward, round Swan point, to the north-east •end of the island. Swan island is nearly 2 miles long, E.N.E. and W.S.W., and one mile across at its broadest part ; but it is nearly divided in two by a bight, with a small islet in it, on its north side. There are three islets close to the south-west extreme, and - another close to the north point. Queenscliff big*llt. — Between Shortland bluff and the south- east part of Swan island a bay extends 2 miles N.E. and S.W., and half a mile deep ; but it is fronted by a bank having irregular depths of 3 to 12 feet water on it, the outer edge of which, from \\ cables off Shortland bluff, trends nearly N.E. by E. 1\ miles to No. 1 black can buoy, and thence one mile farther in the same direciion to Swan-spit gas buoy. Many shoal patches, with from 3 to 6 feet upon them, have formed See chart, No. 2,747a. SO 11712 2 E 2 43d PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. VI^ in Queenscliff bight. The two outer patches are on a line joining Shortland bluff high lighthouse and Swan-spit gas buoy, and are 4 cables apart; the south-west being IJ miles from Swan-spit gas buoy. The coast in Queenscliff bight is extending, and is partially covered with grass. Clearing: mark. — To clear the edge of the bank and the shoals, just noticed, keep Lonsdale lighthouse open of Shortland bluff. Swan beacon, which, when open of Shortland bluff, bearing N.E. i N. (N. 39° E.), leads clear of Lonsdale rock, is white, 80 feet high, surmounted with a red cone and a red ball on top, and is situated near the south-east part of the island, the high lighthouse, on Shortland bluff bearing nearly S. 41° W., distant a little less than. 2 miles. Submarine cable. — A submarine cable is laid between Swan beacon. Swan island, via Popes Eye fort, to Observatory point. Vessels are cautioned that anchorage is prohibited within 4 cables of either side of this cable. Gas buoy. — A gas buoy is moored in 18 feet water on the south- - east part of the Swan spit, bearing S. 80° E., nearly 9 cables from the. Swan beacon. The buoy is painted black and shows a red occulting^. light, which is occulted 6 to 8 times every minute. Swan bay is a large shallow lagoon, extending from the isthmus^ behind Queenscliff N.N.E. 5J miles, and 1^ miles across, with an opening IJ miles wide, between Swan island and a narrow tongue of land projecting nearly 1^ miles from the N.N.E. PVom the north point of Swan island a mud-flat stretches nearly across the opening to Duck islet, between which and the south end of the tongue of land is a narrow boat channel, having 6 to 14 feet water, marked by white beacons on the north-east side, and by a black beacon on the south-west side of the entrance ; but a bank extends from the north-east extreme of Swan island to the tongue of land, forming a 3-feet bar across the mouth of the boat channel. The east and south parts of Swan bay are mostly occupied by mud-flats, leaving only portions of the west side accessible even to. •-&# chart, No. 2,747a. "Chap. VI.] ST. LEONARDS. — GEORGE POINT. 437 boats; there being generally not more than 2 to 5 feet water in the The shore from the northern entrance point of Swan bay "■extends nearly N. by E. 2|- miles to Sovith Red bluff, and thence -about three-quarters of a mile farther in the same direction, to a point, close to the northward of which St. Leonards jetty projects into about 8 or 9 feet water. A continuation of the bank which stretches northward from Swan island borders this shore, from which it projects 200 to 300 yards, with 2 to 6 feet water on it. The 3-fathoms edge of the shoal water, which extends about one-third of a mile from the shore, between the entrance of Swan bay and ^t. Leonards, forms the northern portion of the west side of Coles -channel. St. Leonards is a small fishing village, 24 miles south-westward of Melbourne, with a population in 1891 of 152 persons. Light. — A fixed green light is exhibited from the end of the jetty at St. Leonards, which should be visible in clear weather from a distance of 3 miles. Buoys. — ^A black buoy is placed to mark a shoal 2 cables S.E. of 'St. Leonards jetty. A mooring buoy is placed in 10 feet water about 360 feet off the -end of the jetty and 100 feet to the northward of it. Point George. — From St. Leonards the shore, after extending :N. by W. i W. IJ miles to North Red bluff, trends N.N.E. one-third of a mile to Indented head, whence it recedes in a N.W. J N. direction li miles to point George, close to the northward of which is White Woman rock. From the point of St. Leonards to point George a shoal, with 2 to 3 feet water on it, borders the shore, from which it extend* about 200 to 300 yards. Governor reef is a patch with one foot water on it, marked by a beacon, consisting of a mast and ball, painted black, and about 16 feet above high water, from which North Red bluff bears W. ^ N., distant nearly two-thirds of a mile. At about one-third of a mile to the north-west of the beacon, and E.S.E. nearly a quarter of a mile irom Indented head, is another patch, which dries one foot. See oliarti, No. 2,747« and No. 1,171*. 438 PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. VI.. Prince George bank.— From half a mile ojff the point of St. Leonards the 3-fathoms edge of the shoal water, which extends from the shore, trends in a N. by E. direction to two black buoys, the north and south St. Leonards buoys, which mark the edge of the bank, and lie in 20 feet, respectively S.E. by E., and E.N.E., each distant half a mile from the Governor reef beacon. From the north St. Leonards buoy the eastern 3-fathoms edge of the bank extends irregularly, in a N. by W. direction 2^ miles to the north-east extreme of Prince George bank, a quarter of a mile off which is moored a black gas buoy in 6 fathoms water, which shows an occulting white light, with from 6 to 8 flashes every minute, visible from a distance of 6 miles in clear weather, bearing N.E. J N., a little more than 2 miles from point George. From the north-east extreme of Prince George bank, its northern edge, after trending half a mile to the north-westward, extends, with a slight southerly curve, 3 miles in a W. by S. direction, to a quarter of a nule off the shore to the westward. There are two 4-f eet patches on the northern edge of the bank nearly in line with Prince George buoy bearing E. by N. | N., from which one patch is distant two-thirds of a mile, and the other 1^ miles. THE SOUTHERN SHORE of port Phillip from'point Nepean to Observatory point, E. J S. 1^ miles from it, forms a bight a quarter of a mile deep ; but the depth of water in it does not exceed 17 feet, and there are numerous sunken patches ; the 3-fathoms edge of this shallow water and foul ground extends from the shore to a cable outside the line of the points of the bay. Observatory point and Sanitary station.— There is a flag- staff on Observatory point, which marks the western boundary of the Sanitary station, and from this flag-staff the coast trends E. by S. I S. nearly IJ miles to another flag-staff, the eastern boundary of the station, There is a jetty two cables eastward of Observatory point and another at the quarantine station, 4 cables westward of the eastern flag-staff ; a fixed green light is shown from the end of this jetty, which should be seen from a distance of 3 miles in clear weather. From the eastern flag-staff the coast trends E. ^ S. three-quarters of a mile to point Franklin, the eastern point of Weeroona bay ; ia the depth of the bay, at Portsea, there is a small jetty. See charts, No. l,nib and No. 2,74 7«. Chap. VI.] PRINCE GEORGE BANK. — THE SOUTHERN SHORE. 439 Buoy. — A red conical buoy is moored in 1] feet water 250 feet off point Franklin. From point Franklin the coast takes an E. by S. ^ S. direction'to point King ; between the two flag-staffs it may be approached to one cable, Weeroona bay is shoal for IJ cables off shore, and east- ward of point Franklin a shoal extends 1^ cables from the shore, and is steep to. The quarantine grround extends between Observatory point and point King, the anchorage being in 8 and 9 fathoms three- quarters of a mile from the shcire. Caution. — Strangers, who through stress of weather bring up here or at the anchorage off Shortland bluff, should not attempt to proceed above these anchorages without a pilot, as a collection of banks, with intricate channels, extends 8 miles in all directions above these anchorages. Shoals in South channel. — Between Nos. 1 and 3 buoys of the South channel, shoals with 27 and 28 feet water over them extend 2 cables into the channel ; a patch with 26 to 28 feet over it and about 1^ cables across lies on the south side of the fairway, and North rather over a mile from point Franklin ; a small knoll with 26 feet on it lies N.N.W. ^ W. 9 cables from point Franklin, and another with 30 feet on it N. | W. 6 cables from that point. Portsea, a much frequented sanatorium and watering place, 62^ miles by road from Melbourne, between which place and Portsea a coach travels and steam vessels also ply. There is a telegraph station here, and there are 12 mails a week from Melbourne. Population in 1891, 101, many of whom are lime burners. LIGHT. — K fixed red light is exhibited from the ouier end of the jetty at Portsea, visible 3 miles in clear weather. The coast from point King curves S.E. \ E. about 1| miles to the Sisters, a double point, from the east side of which the coast, after trending E. by S. | S. 2^ miles to White cliff, takes an E. by N. | N. direction for 6^ miles to the foot of Arthur's seat. Between point King and the Sisters is Sorrento jetty. Aspect. — The land from point Nepean to White cliff has hills 100 to 225 feet high on it, with numerous lime kilns, wells, and some See chart, No. 2,747a. 440 PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. VI. ponds. Between White cliff and Arthur's seat the country is flat, and at 3 miles to the eastward of the cliff it appears to be swampy, with a creek intersecting the shore midway between White cliff and Arthur's seat. Half a mile eastward of White cliff is Rye jetty, from the end of which a fixed red light is shown, visible 3 miles, and one mile west is Canterbury jetty. Banks. — From point King to White cliff the coast is fronted by a bank mostly of sand with weeds, extending, midway, 2^ miles from it. This bank, named the South sand, has generally 8 to 10 feet water upon it, with some small hollows of deeper water, and numerous knolls, on some of which there are only one to 6 feet water. Between the south-east extreme of this bank and White cliff is the entrance of a channel one quarter to half a mile wide, with 4 to 9 fathoms water, trending along the coast towards point King ; but a bar of from 8 to 10 feet extends from point King to the shoal bank eastward. This passage is named Sorrento channel and is buoyed. Sorrento channel. — Buoys. — The east side of this channel is marked by four black buoys placed as follows : — E. ^ N. 2J cables from point King ; N. ^ E. about 2 cables from the outer end of Sorrento jetty ; East 4 cables from the outer end of Sorrento jetty ; N. by W. 2^ cables nearly from the end of Canterbury jetty ; and the west side by three red buoys placed : — S.E. by E. J E. 2J cables from point King ; N.E. one cable nearly from the end of Sorrento jetty ; and E. by S. ^ S. one mile from the end of Sorrento jetty. The channel has a minimum depth of 8 feet at low water, but there is a small patch of 6 feet about 100 yards W.N.W. of the northern black buoy. There is a black and red mooring buoy close off Canterbury jetty end. Sorrento is a watering place, 40 miles from Melbourne by sea. The population was 603 in 1891. A coach runs to Melbourne, and in the summer steam-vessels ply daily between the two places. There is a telegraph station here, and there are 12 mails a week from Melbourne. Ligrllt. — From the end of Sorrento jetty, which runs out into 12 feet water, a fixed green light is exhibited from a lamp post, which in clear weather should be se^n from a distance of 2 miles. See chart*, Nos. 2,747a and b. Ohap. VI.] CAPEL SOUND. — ENTRANCE BANKS. 441 Submarine cable.— Prohibited anchorage.— A submarine telegraph cable has been laid between Sorrento and South channel fort, passing about one cable westward of No. 4 and No. 5 buoys. Vessels are prohibited from anchoring within three-quarters of a mile on either side of the line joining point King to South channel fort. CAPEL SOUND is a clear space 2 miles long, east and west, ;and 1^ miles wide, bounded to the northward by the two banks just •described, and to the southward by the coast extending eastward from White cliff. There are regular soundings in 6 to 8 fathoms through- •^out the greater portion of the sound, over a bottom of sand and shells -and mud ; but shoal water extends from a quarter to one-third of a mile off the south shore. From Capel sound to Arthur's seat the shore continues bordered by a shoal one-third of a mile broad, the soundings increasing from .3 fathoms at the edge of the shoal to 7 fathoms at IJ miles from the rshore, over a bottom of sand and shells. Jetty ligrht. — A fixed green light is exhibited from the end of the Rosebud jetty, which is about 1| miles to the westward of Arthur's seat ; it is visible about 3 miles in clear weather. Anchorage. — ^Vessels entering, and caught in South channel by :a northerly or north-west gale, will find anchorage in 5 to 7 fathoms in Capel sound, with White cliff bearing S.W. and the top of Arthur's seat East ; but, if daylight and the wind permit, it would be better to run back t6 the anchorage off Shortland bluff lighthouses. By night the Pile light shows red over safe anchorage in Capel sound. ENTRANCE BANKS AND CHANNELS.— For the first 2^ miles within the heads the estuary is free from dangers, but above that distance, where it widens between the directions of North and East, it is crowded with sand-banks, radiating nearly 8 miles from their southern and western extremes. Between these banks there -are several channels, three being buoyed, namely, the South, West, and Coles channels ; the others are narrow and intricate. LIGHT. — The South channel pile lighthouse at the eastern end of the channel exhibits ^ fixed light showing red between the bearings See charts, Nos. 2,747 a and h. 442 PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. VI. S. 84° W. through north to N. 42° E., and white between N. 42° E. and S. 22° E. ; between S. 22° E. and S. 76° W. the light is obscured, and it shows white between S. 76° W. and S. 84° W. ; it is elevated 27 feet above the level of high water, and in clear weather the white light should be seen from a distance of 10 miles, and the red light 8 miles. TIDE SIGNALS.— The following tide signals are exhibited from the Pile lighthouse in the South channel, indicating the depth of water in the deepest or north side of the channel, in the vicinity of the lighthouse : — From Sunrise to Sunset. Ft. Ins. One blue flag - - - - 25 One ball - - - - - 25 6 One ball with blue flag over - - 26 One ball with blue flag under - - 26 6 Two balls - - - - - 27 Two balls with red flag under - - 27 6 Two balls with red flag over - - 28 Two balls with red flag between - - 28 & One red flag - - - - - 29 From Sunset to Sunrise. Ft. Ins. One green light - - - - 25 One white light - - - - 25 6 One white light with green light over - 26 One white light with green light under - 26 6 Two white lights - - - - 27 Two white lights with red li^ht under - 27 6 . Two white lights with red light over - 28 Two white lights with red light between - 28 6 One red light - - - - 29 The tide gauge at the Pile lighthouse shows 28 feet at low water springs. SOUTH CHANjNEL.— The South, or great ship channel, is bounded to the southward by the north edge of the three banks last described, along which are placed four red numbered conical buoys, and the pile lighthouse at the east end of the spit ; two gas buoys marking the dredged channel. The channel is bounded on the north /Sfee chart, No. 2,747J. Chap. VI.] SOUTH CHANNEL. 443^ side by the southern edge of Great sand and Middle ground, defined by seven numbered black can and one black gas buoys. Buoys. — North, side of channel. — No. 1 black can buoy with staff and cage is placed at the west end of Great sand ; from it Shortland bluff high lighthouse bears W. by N. i N. and South Red bluff N. I W. No. 3 black can buoy on the south edge of Great sand bears: E. by S. i S. distant 1^^ miles from No. 1 buoy. No. 5 black can buoy on the south edge of Middle ground bears. E. I S. distant 2^ miles from No. 3 buoy. No. 7 black can buoy on the south edge of Middle ground bears E. J S. distant 1^^ miles nearly from No. 5 buoy. No. 9 black can buoy on the south edge of Middle ground bears E. by S. ^ S. distant one mile nearly fron No. 7 buoy. No. 11 black can buoy on the south edge of Middle ground bears. N.E. by E. i E. distant 3^ cables from the pile lighthouse. No. 13 black can buoy on the south edge of Middle ground bears E. J N. distant 9 cables from No. 11 buoy. No. 15 black gas buoy at the east end of Middle ground bears E. by N. ^ N. distant one mile from No. 13 buoy. This buoy exhibits a white occulting light, showing 8 flashes every minute. Buoys.— South side of channel. — The western spit of the South sand is marked by No. 2 red conical buoy bearing N. by W. ^ W.,. distant 8 cables from point King ; and between them a bight, having 6 to 3 fathoms, trends one mile eastward into the bank ; from No. 2 red buoy the north edge of the bank extends East 1| miles to No. 4 red conical buoy, and thence E. ^ S. 1:J^ miles to No. 6 red conical buoy, moored close to the north-east extreme of the bank from which its eastern edge sweeps round in a S.E. by S. direction 1 j miles to about N. by W. three-quarters of a mile from White cliff. Two other banks extend together, 2 miles eastward from the large one, from which they are separated by a narrow channel one mile long, with 3J to 7 fathoms in it. These two banks are nearly divided by a narrow inlet three-quarters of a mile long, running in a south-east direction with 5 to 3 fathoms water. The northern edge of the eastern bank is marked by No. 8 red conical buoy, bearing nearly E. J S. distant 1^ miles from No. 6 red buoy. From the eastern bank a spit^ with 3i fathoms on it, projects E. by N. rather less than half a mile See charts, Nos. 2,747a and b. 44i PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. VI. to the pile lighthouse, which bears E. ^ S., distant one mile from No. 8 red buoy. South, diannel* is one mile wide at its western entrance, between No. 2 red buoy and No. 3 black buoy, and half a mile wide abreast -of No. 6 red buoy ; but only a quarter of a mile wide at its eastern -entrance, between the pile lighthouse and No. 11 black buoy. The soundings in the channel are very irregular, varying from 10 fathoms in the middle of the western entrance to 20 fathoms at 1^ miles farther eastward ; thence the depth varies from 11 to 16 fathoms between No. 4 red and No. 5 black buoys, gradually decreasing eastward to 23 and 26 feet north of the pile lighthouse. Between Nos. 9 and 11 black buoys and in alignment therewith, the channel has been dredged for a width of 400 feet extending southerly from the north edge of the channel. The southern half of this dredged channel has a navigable depth of 28 feet at low water springs ; the ^northern half of 26 feet. The deepening of the northern side is in progress (June 1896). The south edge of the western end of the •dredged channel is marked by a gas buoy showing a fixed white light at 10 feet above the sea and visible 5 miles in clear weather ; and the south edge of the eastern end of the dredged channel is marked by a gas buoy showing Si fixed green light at 10 feet above the sea and visible 3 miles in clear weather. The in-going stream sets through South channel at a rate of one io 1;^ knots, and the out-going three-quarters of a knot to 2 knots. Middle ground. — The south edge of this bank extends nearly 5^ miles from No. 15 to No. 5 black buoys, and from the latter buoy the north-west edge of the bank, which forms the south-east side of Pinnace channel, takes a general north-east direction 2J miles, and thence the north-east edge curves nearly 4| miles south-east to No. 15 black buoy, where the bank terminates in a narrow point. Between Nos. 7 and 9 black buoys an inlet, having from 3^^ to 4^ fathoms, trends one mile in aN.E. by E. direction, nearly dividing Middle ground into two banks. The general depth of water on Middle ground varies from 9 to 12 feet ; but there are several ridges -tmd knolls on it with only one and 3 feet water over them. Sse charts, Nos. 2,74 7^^ and b. * Dredging operations are in progress (1896) in the South channel, near the Pile lighthouse. During their continuance, two small red buoys are moored near No. 11 black buoy. The dredger will show the following signals on the side which vessels should pass ; — by day, a basket ball ; at night, three red lights vertical. The dredger must b« passed at the slowest speed, and the engines stopped while passing over her cables. Chap. VI.] MIDDLE GROUND.— POPES BYE SHOAL. MS Fort. — South channel fort is on the Middle ground about midway between Nos. 5 and 7 buoys. In connection with defence works^ seven pile beacons are set up in the Middle ground, commencing at one cable North of No. 5 buoy and extending to one cable East of the fort. Pinnace channel, which is only suitable for vessels of light draught, is merely an inlet from the north-east, between Middle ground and Great sand, extending S.W. by S. 2^ miles, nearly to- No. 5 black buoy, where the entrance to the channel in that direction is over a 12-feet ridge which connects Middle ground with Great sand. The channel is half a mile to a quarter of a mile wide, having 3 to 4 fathoms, in it. Great sand. — From near No. 5 black buoy the east 3-fathoms edge of Great sand sweeps round N.N.E., North, and N.N.W. 5 miles to a narrow spit, forming the north-east point of the sand and the south- west point of the north-east entrance into Symonds channel. The south 3-fathoms edge of Great sand extends from No. 5 black buoy nearly W. by N. J N. 3J miles to th« south-west point, 1^ cables off which lies No. 1 black buoy. From the south-west point of Great sand its north-west 3-fathoms edge, which forms the south-east side of Symonds channel, trends N.E. by N. 5 miles, and thence- E. by N. three-quarters of a mile to the north-east point of the sand. The main body of Great sand forms a flat 4J miles long, N E. by N.. and S.W. by S., and extends from its north-west 3-fathoms edge- 2J miles across towards Pinnace channel. The depth of water on this flat is very uniform, rarely being more than 5 feet, nor less than one foot. Mud islands, which are three in number, and on the centre of Great sand, are low and wooded, and are situated on a bank about one mile across, enclosing a small lagoon, having about 6 inches water in it. There is a narrow hollow one mile long, N.E. and S.W.,. with 8 to 20 feet water, close to the north-west side of the isles, and there arc several knolls on the flat to the northward and south waid of them. Popes Eye shoal, which forms the north-west side of the south- west entrance of Symonds channel, is a bank of sand one mile long, N.E. by E. and S.W. by W., and about 2 cables broad, with 3 to 5 feet S«e ehart«, Nos. 2,747» and b. 446 PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. VI. water on its shoalest part, which rises to a ridge 4 cables long, its Kjentre bearing S. | E. distant one mile from Swan-spit gas buoy. A detached narrow ridge trending N.N.E. and S.S.W. 2 cables, with 17 feet water on it, has formed at half a cable off the south-west point of Popes Eye shoal. Buoy. — The south-west extreme of the shallow water extending from Popes Eye shoal is marked by a red and white buoy, moored in about 5 fathoms, and 3 cables to the south-west of the 3-fathoms edge, with the high lighthouse on Shortland bluff bearing W.N.W. distant 1^ miles. Popes Eye fort is situated on the south-west part of the shallow water of the shoal. In the vicinity of the fort and at a distance of about 2 cables from it, two beacons and four buoys have been placed in connection with defence operations and they should be avoided by passing vessels. West Middle sand extends from Popes Eye shoal about 5^ miles in a north-east direction, between Symonds and Lcelia channels. The south-east 3-fathoms edge of the sand, which forms the north-west side of Symonds channel, trends from the south-west end of Popes Eye shoal, N.E. ^ E. 1| miles, and N.N.E. 2 miles, whence it takes a N.E. by E. direction 2 miles, and after a turn of a quarter of a mile to the southward, the edge of the sand extends one mile eastward to its east point, on which is a bank with 5 and 6 feet water over it, its east point being marked by a beacon, from which the high lighthouse on Shortland bluff bears nearly S.W. by W. i W., and Arthur's seat S.E. i E. At about half a mile west of the beacon a spit, with 16 feet water on it, projects south- westward one-third of a mile from West Middle sand into the entrance of Symonds channel. Th© north-west 3-fathoms edge of West Middle sand, which forms the south-east side of Lcelia channel, from the south-west end of Popes Eye shoal, trends irregularly about N.E. by N. 2^ miles, where it forms a spit, between which and the sand to the eastward of it, an inlet, one quarter of a mile wide at its entrance, and having 4 fathoms water, runs in S. by W. three-quarters of a mile. From the bight of this inlet the north-west edge of West Middle sand extends N.N.E. 3 miles, when, after trending E. by N. half a mile, the edge of the bank resumes its N.N.E. direction one mile to its north point. Sea charts, Nos. 2,747a and K Chap. VI.] SYMONDS CHANNEL. 447 From the north point the east point bears S.E. by E. ^ E., distant a little more than 2 miles, and between them an inlet, having 2J to 4 J fathoms, trends 2 J miles south-westward, nearly dividing the north-east portion of the sand into two separate banks. The south- east of these banks rises to a narrow ridge, with only one to 3 feet water on it, extending from half a mile W.N.W. to nearly 2^ miles W.S.W. from the beacon on the east point of the sand. There are two ridges, with 2 to 6 feet water over them, on the north-western of the banks ; and there is another ridge about one mile long, with one to 6 feet water over it, on the middle of West Middle sand, at one mile to the south-west of which there is a bank with 3 to 5 feet water over it. SYMONDS CHANNEL is one mile wide at its south-west entrance, between No. 1 South channel black buoy and Popes Eye buoy, whence the channel extends 6 miles in a north-easterly direction, and is two-thirds of a mile to one mile wide, until within 1^ miles of the east point beacon, where detached banks, with 16 and 17 feet water on them, so encumber the channel, that at half a mile S.W. of the beacon there is only a width of about IJ cables, with 17 feet water. There is a knoll with 16 feet water on it, on the south-east side of Symonds channel, at nearly 1^ miles from No. 1 South channel buoy, and another, having 17 feet water on it, nearly in mid-channel at about 2 miles S.W. of the beacon ; but, with these exceptions, there are generally 9 to 5 fathoms from the south-west entrance to within 1^ miles of the beacon. Symonds channel may be made available in northerly or north- west winds, when unable to fetch through West channel ; but it is - only recommended for small vessels, not being buoyed. Royal Georg-e sand, which forms the south-east side of the entrance of West channel, and lies midway between Popes Eye shoal and the bank extending from Shortland bluff to Swan-spit gas buoy, is nearly half a mile long, east and west, with 12 feet least water on it. The west end of the shoal is marked by No. 2 West channel buoy, a red gas buoy, moored in 19 feet water ; from it Shortland high lighthouse bears W. by S. ^ S., Swan beacon N. ^ W. and No. 1 black West channel buoy N.N.W. distant 3 cables. No. 2 buoy Se0 charts, Nof. 2,747a and b. 448 PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. VI.. shows a white occulting light, which is occulted 6 ^o 8 times everif minute. The east end of the shoal is marked by a red conical buoy in 21 feet and bears E. | N. nearly 6 cables from the buoy on the west end. Tlie south-west entrance of West channel, between Royal George sand and the bank to the north-west of it, is 3 cables wide,. with 22 to 33 feet water. The channel between the east end of Royal' George sand and the south-west spit of West Middle sand, is about the same width as the south-western entrance of West channel, with- 22 and 24 feet water in it. William sand, which forms the north-west side of Loelia channel and the south-east side of West channel, is 4 miles long S.W. by S^ and N.E. by N., and a quarter of a mile to half a mile broad within its 3-fathoms edges, its south-west extreme bearing N.E. by E. \ E.. 4 cables frgm the Swan-spit gas buoy. From a quarter of a mile within its south-west extreme to about three-quarters of a mile- within its north-east spit, William sand rises to a narrow ridge, with one to 7 feet water over it. Loelia channel extends from the south-west part of West channel 4 miles in a north-easterly direction, between West Middle- sand and William sand ; its south-west entrance is half a cable wide, with 3 J fathoms water ; but thence the channel increases to 3 and 4 cables in width, with Z\ to 5 fathoms, until within one-third' of a mile of its north-east entrance, which is only one cable wide,, with 3 fathoms water. WEST CHANNEL, which is the one most used, extends from Royal George sand 5 miles in a N.N.E. direction, and is from one cable to half a mile wide, with 30 to 19 feet water, over a bottom of sand and shells. This channel is distinguished by No. 2, Royal George and Swan-spit gas buoys, in the south-west, and by West channel pile lighthouse, in the north-east entrance, the sides being marked by red conical buoys and one gas buoy, with even numbers on the south-eastern side, and black can buoys, with odd numbers,., on the north-western side. North of the east end of Royal George shoal, and at distances of nearly 2 and 4 cables from it, are two small patches of 19 and 17 feet water respectively. See charts, Not. 2,747« and h. Chap. VI.] WEST CHANNEL. 449 The south-east side of West channel, after passing Royal George sand, is formed by the south-west part of West Middle sand and the north-west edge of William sand. No. 4 red conical buoy is moored in 21 feet, nearly one cable to the northward of the south-west spit of West Middle sand, and S. J E. 6 cables from Swan-spit gas buoy. No. 6 red conical buoy marks the shoal formed on the south-west spit of William sand, and bears N.N.E. | E., distant nearly half a mile from Swan-spit gas buoy. No. 8 red conical buoy bears N.N.E. | E. nearly one mile from No. 6. No. 10 red conical buoy is withdrawn. No. 12 red gas buoy (the Elbow buoy) bears N. f E. 9 cables from No. 8 ; it shows d. fixed white light at 10 feet above the sea and visible 5 miles in clear weather. Shoals with 17 and 18 feet water extend from about 4 cables S.S.W. of No. 12 buoy, about 2^ cables westward and north-westward. No. 14 buoy, also on the north-western 3-fathoms edge, and No. 16 on the north-east end of William sand, lie respectively N.E. | N. lyV miles, and N.E. 2yV miles from No. 12 buoy. West channel is bounded on the north-west side by the bank which extends from Swan island, marked by No. 1 black buoy and Swan-spit black gas buoy {see page 436) ; and thence by the irregular 3-fathoms edge of shoals extending 4^ miles in a N.N.E. direction. Between Swan-spit gas buoy and No. 3 black can buoy, which lies about N. by E. \ E. \\ miles from it, is the entrance into Coles channel. A black can buoy marks a recently formed shoal with 10 feet water on it, bearing North, three-quarters of a mile from the Swan-spit gas buoy. No. 3 black can buoy is situated a cable within the 3-fathoms edge of the shoal, and at 3 cables to the southward of it a spit with 16 to 18 feet water on it projects a cable into the fairway of the channel. N.E. ^ N. 3 cables from No. 3 buoy is the end of a spit, part of an irregularly shaped shoal with 16 to 18 feet water on it, lying to the northward of the buoy. From the spit it trends N.W. nearly half a mile and then its west edge forms with the south end of West sand a narrow inlet. From the south end of this inlet the 3-fathoms edge of the West sand trends N.N.E. one mile to No. 5 black can buoy. See chart, No. 2,747a. SO 11712 450 PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. VI. Froin No. 5 buoy the 3-fathoms edge of the shoal extends N.E. by N 1^ miles to No. 7 black can buoy, and then N.E. J N. 8 cables to the pile lighthouse near the north-east end of the shoals, and on the north-west side of the north entrance of West channel. The water shoals suddenly towards the north-west and south-east sides, throughout the greater part of the channel. LIGHT. — A lighthouse erected on piles in 15 feet water, on the north-east side of West sand, West channel, exhibits a fixed light showing white between the bearings of N. 34° E. (through west) and S. 14° E., and red in all other directions. The light is elevated 31 feet above high water, and should be visible in clear weather from a distance of 11 miles. Fog" signal. — During thick or foggy weather, a gong and a fog horn are sounded alternately every five minutes, at the lighthouse. Note. — The red light extends from the direction of No. 5 buoy of the West channel to the Prince George black gas buoy. Vessels should pass a cable eastward of the lighthouse. There are banks with 16 to 18 feet water over them from about 2 to 5 cables to the southward of the lighthouse. West bank. — The bank which forms the western side of West channel rises to several narrow ridges, with one to 5 feet water over them. West sand, the longest of these ridges, from nearly half a mile N.W. of No. 3 black buoy, extends N. | E. 2 miles, and is from 100 to 400 yards broad, with a narrow spit returning three-quarters of a mile in a S. by E. direction from the north end of the sand, and again bending to the N.N.E. for a mile. A narrow sand, half a mile long, nearly N.E. and S.W., lies between West sand and the north- east extreme of the bank on which this ridge is situated ; the south-east edge of this ridge is about 100 yards within No. 7 black l)uoy. From the north end of West sand the bank, with 8 to 17 feet water over it, extends N. \ E. one mile, to a sand-head, between which and that marked by West channel lighthouse, a bight one- third of a mile wide, with 4 to 3;^ fathoms water, trends one-third of a mile S.W. into the bank. See chart, No. 2,747a. Chap. VI.] COLES CHANNEL. — ARTHUR'S SEAT. 451 Clearing" mark. — Station peak, 1,132 feet high, on the north- west side of port Phillip, open of the high land of point George, bearing nearly N.W. by W, i W. (N. 59° W.), leads clear of the north-east extremes of all the entrance banks, at a distance of a mile from the nearest. Coles channel, between West channel and the western shore of port Phillip, is a 2-fathoms passage used by small vessels acquainted with the locality. It is bounded on the east side by West bank which forms the western side of West channel ; the shoalest parts of the bank being West sand. This side of the channel is marked by three red conical buoys, the south buoy in 18 feet water, on the south-west edge of West sand and bearing N. | W. one and a quarter miles from the Swan-spit gas buoy ; the middle buoy in 20 feet water, on the west edge of West sand bears N. :^ W. 2yV miles from the Swan-spit gas buoy ; and the north buoy, in 18 feet water, is on the north-west edge of the sand with South Red bluff beacon W. I S. half a mile. The west side of Coles channel is formed by the shoal extending northward from the east end of Swan island and along the western shore, noticed at page 437. South Red bluff is marked by a white beacon and there is also a white beacon on the coast ly^^y miles to the southward of it. The channel is a quarter of a mile to half a mile wide, with 2^ to -3^ fathoms in its north and south entrances, but only 2 fathoms in its central and widest part ; the water shoals suddenly towards West sand, but gradually towards the shore. Tlie EASTERN SHORE.— Arthur's seat, E. by S. nearly 14 miles from Shortland bluff, is so called from its resemblance to the hill of that name near Edinburgh ; it is a conspicuous bluff 975 feet high, sloping down to the south-east, and is visible nearly 40 miles at sea. From the southward its north-west extreme appears precipitous, and being the highest land on the coast, is a remarkable object by which to distinguish the entrance to port Phillip. LIGHT.— The Eastern lighthouse, built of iron, painted white, immediately under Arthur's seat, exhibits, at 100 feet above high water, a fixed light, showing red between the bearings S. 17° W, and S. 48° E. ; and white between S. 48° E. and N. 73° E. ; in clear weather the light should be seen from a distance of 13 miles. See charts, Nos. 2,747a and b. SO 11712 2 F 2 452 PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. VI. Water. — The land between Arthur's seat and Martha point is low, with good spring- water near the shore, north of Arthur's seat. Dromana bay. — From the foot of Arthur's seat the coast curves N.E., North, and N.W. 4 miles to Martha point ; the north-eastern part of this bight forms Dromana bay, where there are 3 fathoms water a quarter of a mile from the shore. Dromana is a small town, with a population of 272 persons in 1891. There is a telegraph office here, and daily communication by coach and steam- vessel with Melbourne. The jetty is 1,400 feet long. Light. — A fixed red light visible from a distance of 4 miles is exhibited from Dromana jetty end. The shore, from Martha point, may be approached to a quarter of a mile in 3 fathoms, and trends nearly N.N.E. 2 miles to Martha cliff, which forms the south-west point of Balcolms bay^ The land between the point and cliff rises to a ridge, of which the south-west and highest part is mount Martha, a hill 527 feet high,, bearing N.N.E. \ E., distant 4J miles from Arthur's seat. Balcolms bay extends from Martha cliff N. by E. \ E. nearly 3 miles to Fisherman point, and is two-thirds of a mile deep ; except within half a mile of Martha cliff the shore may be approached to a quarter of a mile in 3 fathoms, but there are some rocks close . along shore, of which Shag rock lies If miles N.E. of Martha cliff ; at three-quarters of a mile north-eastward of the cliff is Balcolms creek. Fishermans bay and Morning-ton.— Fishermans bay, which is the water frontage of Mornington, is merely a slight indentation of the coast extending from Fisherman point N. by E. nearly one mile to Snapper point. Shoals project a quarter of a mile from the southern quarter of the bay, but the shore north of these shoals may be approached to a cable in 3 fathoms. The population of Mornington was 909 in 1891 . There is railway and telegraph communication. Snapper point projects a quarter of a mile from the coast, and has a small jetty for the convenience of coasters. See charts, No. 2,747& and No. 1,1 71^. Chap. VI.] THE EASTERN SHORE. 453 LIGHTS. — On Snapper point, a fixed white light is exhibited at an elevation of 50 feet above the level of the sea, and is visible at a distance of 10 miles. The lighthouse is built of wood and painted white. At the end o£ the jetty is a mast with a lamp 30 feet high, showing a fixed red light visible at a distance of 3 miles. Mount Eliza. — From Snapper point the coast trends N.E. by JJ,' 4 miles to Davy point ; it is slightly embayed, and is intersected by four small creeks flowing north-westward from the hills at the back ; the most conspicuous of these hills is mount Eliza, 527 feet high, which bears N.N.E. | E., distant llj miles from Arthur's seat. This coast may be approached to a quarter of a mile in 3 fathoms ; but it is rocky for about 1^ miles southward from Davy point. The coast from Davy point, after receding nearly half a mile to the eastward, extends N.E. ^ N. 1^ miles to the village of Frankston. The country behind is hilly, and is intersected by two or three small creeks. The south-eastern shore of port Phillip, which is mostly wooded, has several townships, and numerous houses and other buildings are scattered along it. Between Davy point and Frankston a shoal, with 3 to 17 feet water on it, extends one-third of a mile from the shore ; and at a little more than half a mile N. by E. from the point a spit projects north- westward a quarter of *a mile further from the shoal to a rock with only 4^ feet water on it. Frankston, a township 27 miles to the south of Melbourne, has a jetty extending a quarter of a mile into the bay, and is the centre of a large fishing and firewood trade. The population in the township numbered 794 in 1891, but the chief part is scattered in the suburbs. It is connected with Melbourne by rail, and there is a telegraph station. A fixed green light, visible 3 miles, is shown from the end of the jetty. Garrum swamp. — From Frankston a low uniform coast curves in a N. by W. | W. direction 8^ miles to the point of Mordialloc, and is separated by a narrow piece of wooded land from Garrum swamp. The coast from Frankston nearly to the point of Mordialloc may be approached to the distance of 3 cables in 3 fathoms ; but a ledge of rocks projects a quarter of a mile south from the point. See charts, Nos. l,171rt and b. 454 PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. vi. From Mordialloc to Ricket point, W. by N. 2| miles from it. the coast forms a bay 2^ miles across and three-quarters of a mile deep. From 4 and 4^ fathoms in the entrance of this bay the water shoals to 3 fathoms at a quarter of a mile from the shore. Three patches, on the central and smallest of which there are only 6 feet water, and on the others 12 and 15 feet, lie W. by N. two-thirds of a mile, one mile, and 1^ miles from the eastern point of the bay. Mordialloc is a township on the river Plenty, 15^ miles from Melbourne, with a population in 1891 of 263 persons. There is a jetty which affords facilities for landing, and steamers ply to Melbourne, with which place there is also communication by rail and telegraph. Light. — A fixed red light, visible 3 miles, is shown from a post at the end of Mordialloc jetty. Mentone is about 1^ miles north-west of Mordialloc. There is a jetty and communication by railway and telegraph. The population was 1,076 in 1891. Ligrht. — A fixed green light, visible about 3 miles, is exhibited from a lamp post at the end of Mentone jetty. Ricket point. — From between Ricket point and the western point of the bay, just noticed, foul ground and shoal water to 3 fathoms project south for half a mile. Picnic point. — From Ricket point a mostly rocky coast extends N.W. J N. 'd^ miles to Picnic point. There are two intermediate projections, one at a mile and the other at nearly 2 miles from Ricket point. Close to the southward of the former projection is Quiet Corner ; and between the latter and Red cliff, one-third of a mile to the northward of it, is Half-moon bay. The coast between Kicket and Picnic points is bordered by foul ground and sunken patches, some with only 4 and 5 feet water on them, extending off nearly half a mile. A spit projects south-westward from Picnic point to 3 fathoms at half a mile off. Buoy. — A nun buoy, painted red, is placed in 18 feet water off Black rock and marks the outer limit of the foul ground between the buoy and shore. iSffeohaxt, No. \,\7\b. Chap. VI.] , ANONYMA SHOAL. — GREEN POINT. 455 From Picnic point to Green point, X.N.W. | W. 1^ miles from it> the coast forms a slight indentation, bordered by a shoal, of which the 3-fathoms edge extends from half a mile off Picnic point ta 400 yards close to the southward of Green point. Anonyma shoal is a rocky patch one-third of a mile long^ N.W. and S.E., and 300 yards broad, with one foot water on its shoalest part ; there are 4 fathoms at a cable from its outer edge, and 3J fathoms between it and a quarter of a mile off the beach. Beacon and buoy. — There is a chequered beacon on this shoal, bearing S. by W. nearly three-quarters of a mile from Picnic point, and two-thirds of a mile from the shore ; and there is also a red conical buoy on the north-west edge of the shoal. Jetty. — From about a cable to the north-east of Rcnic point, a jetty runs out about 800 yards to the north-westward. A beacon, consisting of a mast with a red ball on it, 11 feet high, is placed in 7 feet at low water 240 yards X.W. by W. from the end of the jetty. A fixed green light is exhibited from a lamp post at the outer end of the jetty and should be visible in clear weather from a distance of 3 miles. Vessels going to and from the jetty should north of the beacon. A rocky patch, with dh fathoms water over it, lies nearly West 1^ miles from Picnic point ; there are 5 and 4^ fathoms between this patch and the shore. Green point. — Shoal water to 3 fathoms extends W.S.W. half a mile from the point. About a cable to the south-east of Green point a jetty runs out 200 yards to the south-west. From Green point the coast extends N. by W. J W. 1^ miles to point Cole, and thence curves in a N.N.W. ^ W. direction 1^ miles to point Ormond, the eastern point of Hobson bay. For about one mile north from Green point the coast is bordered with rocks, and from half a mile off the point, the 3-fathoms edge of the shoal water fronting the shore trends irregularly to one-third of a mile off point Cole and then about N.W. ^ N. to three-quarters of a mile off point Ormond. See chart, No. 1,1715 '456 • PORT PHILLIP. • [Chap. vi. Brighton. — The southern and greater portion of the coast from about Green point to point Ormond forms the water frontage of the town of Brighton, a watering place, and a suburb of Melbourne, from which it is distant 8 miles. It is a favourite place of residence, abounds with handsome villas, and there is a long sandy beach. Market-gardening is the chief industry of the district. Trains run half-hourly to Melbourne, and there is communication by telegraph. The population in 1891 wae 9,158. Jetty. — From nearly a mile to the north of Green point a jetty runs out W.N.W. about 200 yards, and a fixed red light is exhibited from the end of it, which should be seen about 3 miles. A red conical buoy marks the outer patch of rocks opposite Park street, Brighton. HOBSON BAY,* the port of Melbourne, consists of all inlets, rivers, bays, &c., within a line drawn from point Ormond, west to point Gellibrand, and is 2 miles deep ; but the western portion only is available for shipping, nearly all the eastern half of the bay being occupied by a shallow bank. From point Ormond the low shore of Hobson bay trendsN. by W. ^ W. a little more than a mile to a pier at the west point of the town of St. Kilda : the pier projects from the shore 600 yards into 11 feet water. The 6-feet edge of the shoal which borders the shore extends from a little more than a cable off point Ormond to about 400 yards within the outer end of the pier. For about one-third of a mile north of point Ormond there are numerous rocks scattered over the shoal. In connection with the reclamation of Elwood swamp, 2 mooring buoys, painted red, are moored about half a mile off shore and with point Ormond bearing E.S.E., in 15 feet water. The shore from about a quarter of a mile northward of St. Kilda pier extends in a straight line N.W. by W. J W. 2 miles to Port Melbourne town pier. There are 9 feet water within a cable of the shore from St. Kilda to Port Melbourne piers. The shore from the Melbourne and Hobson bay railway pier, which is nearly 3 cables to the west of Port Melbourne town pier, trends W. by S. 1 J miles to the entrance of the Yarra river. The 6-feet edge of the shoal which borders the shore, extends from it 100 yards * The rate of silt depobit in Hobson bay, as ascertained by careful observations of liie Melbourne authorities, is at the rate of an inch per month. More is deposited in the harbour to the northward of William stown than to the southward. See chart, No. 624, Hobson bay and river Yarra to Melbourne, scale m = 6*0 inches. Chap. VI.] HOBSON BAY. 457 at the railway pier to 300 yards from the northern side of the entrance of the river. St. Kilda, about 3 1 miles southward of Melbourne is a watering place, with an esplanade along the sea beach. Several tracts of water are fenced in for bathing purposes ; the fencing is for pro- tection against sharks. Trains and omnibuses constantly run to and from Melbourne. The population in 1891 was 19,838. Light. — A fixed green light, elevated 19 feet above high water, and visible in clear weather from a distance of 2 miles, is exhibited from the outer end of St. Kilda pier. Floating beacon. — The outer stake, a floating beacon, is placed with the south-west end of St. Kilda pier bearing N.E. | E. 6 cables. This beacon marks the limits east of which fishing is prohibited near St. Kilda. Port Melbourne town pier. — The pier projects from Port Melbourne, nearly S.W. by S. 720 yards, into 26 and 29 feet water. Three red buoys are moored in line along the south-east side, and two on the north-west side of the pier, from which the former are distant about 100 yards and the latter 170 yards. On this pier are steam cranes to lift 50 tons, and hand cranes from 1 to 10 tons. Railway pier.— At W. by N. \ N. 600 yards from Port Melbourne town pier, the Melbourne and Hobson bay railway pier extends from the shore S. by W. \ W. 730 yards, into 28 to 30 feet water. Lights. — At the outer end of Port Melbourne town pier is 2^ fixed red light, visible at the distance of 3 miles. At the outer end of the railway pier is a fixed green light, visible at the distance of 3 miles. A fixed red light is exhibited from the Torpedo depot drill room, about 300 yards to the west of the inner end of the railway pier. This light in line with the green light at the end of the railway pier, bearing about N. | W. (N. 8° W.) leads in the fairway of the channel to the piers. Near the inner end of the railway pier on each side is a small fixed green light. See chart No. 624. ,/F- 458 POET PHILLIP. [Chap. VI. Beacons. — Westward of the Torpedo depot are two beacons, one black, the other white, which in line about N. | W. (N. 8° W.) mark the western side of the d^ep water channel to the piers. This line, a little southward of the red conical buoy, passes over depths of 23 to 25 feet for about 4 cables, which depths extend some distance^ into the channel. Depth, of water. — At the inner end of the town pier, the 3-fathoms edge of the bank extends off about 200 yards, increasing to 280 yards midway between the piers and decreasing to about 100 yards at the inner end of the railway pier. On the east side of the town pier there are 27 to 29 feet at low water springs, on the west side 26 feet, and on the east side of the railway pier 28 and 30 feet, on the west side 27 and 28 feet. VesseJs of large tonnage and heavy draught lie alongside the piers and are rapidly loaded or discharged, there being numerous steam cranes for that purpose. Port Melbourne, formerly called Sandridge, is almost entirely dependent on shipping. Population 12,019. The Melbourne and Hobson bay railway runs N.E. 2 miles from the pier to the locality of the Custom-house at Melbourne. Soundings and buoys. — From about one mile West of point Ormond the 3-fathoms edge of the bank which fills the eastern half of Hobson bay extends N.W. {, W. 1^ miles to its western elbow, marked by a gas buoy, in 28 feet water, which exhibits an occulting red light. N. | W. 5^ cables from this gas buoy, is a red conical buoy with staff and ball. A channel, with 28 feet at low water in it, and about 500 to 800 feet in width has been dredged to the westward of the line of these buoys and to the railway pier. This channel also leads to the town pier with a depth of 26 feet at low water. From about a cable eastward of the red conical buoy the 3-fathoms edge of the bank trends N.E. by E. nearly 2 cables, and then takes a northerly direction towards about 200 yards from the inner end of the town pier. The depth of water on this bank gradually decreases from 18 feet at its edge to 10 and 12 feet at a quarter of a mile from the shore, over an even bottom of sand and shells. Between the red conical buoy and the town pier are several mooring buoys. See chart, No. 624. Chap. VI.] PORT MELBOURNE. — WILLIAMSTOWN. 459 POINT GELLIBRAND. — From the southern extreme of point Gellibrand a low rocky shore trends N.E. nearly two-thirds of a mile to the east extreme of the point, on which stands the Time ball towe2% and is bordered by ledges of rocks, with spits of foul ground, which, midway, extend a quarter of a mile from the shore towards the light-vessel. These spits are enclosed by a shoal bank, the 3-fathoms edge of which, from 2 cables S.E. of the south extreme of point Gellibrand trends E. by S. 2 cables, and N.E. by E. a quarter of a mile, to the south-east elbow of the bank, and from thence extends North two-thirds of a mile to 2 cables N.N.E. of the east extreme of point Gellibrand. LIGHT. — Point Gellibrand light-vessel is moored in 5 fathoms water, S.S.E. one cable from the south-east elbow of the bank which projects from the point, with the south extreme of the point bearing W. by N. J N., and the Time ball tower on the east extreme of the point, bearing N. by W. h W. The vessel, which is circular, painted red, with a cylindrical iron tower, painted white, exhibits a fixed red dioptric light of the fourth order, elevated 38 feet above the sea, which is visible from the distance of 10 miles in clear weather. Fog" Sig'nal. — During thick and foggy weather, a horn and explosive rocket are sounded and fired alternately every five minutes from the light-vessel. The sound of an explosive rocket should be heard under favourable atmospheric conditions at a distance of 5 or 6 miles, but it may not be heard more than 2 miles, and it should be assumed when the explosion is heard, that the point Gellibrand light- vessel is not more than one to 1^ miles distant. WILLIAMSTOWN, on the south-west side of Hobson bay and 8 miles from Melbourne, had in 1891 a population of 15,960 persons ;, their business is principally with shipping. There is accommodation alongside the piers for vessels of various sizes ; there is also> provision for the repairs of vessels. Breakwater pier. — From the east extreme of point Gellibrand the breakwater pier extends N.E. J E. nearly 500 yards ; there is a depth of 29 feet at low water at its outer end and of 25 to 19 feet for a length of 900 feet on its north-west side. Light. — On the end of the breakwater pier a fixed white light ia shown, which should be seen from a distance of 3 miles. See chart, No. 624. 460 PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. VI. Railway pier. — From about 40 or 50 yards to the north-westward of the Time ball tower on the east extreme of point Gellibrand, the railway pier extends N. by E. ^ E. about 600 yards, and has 28 feet water alongside it. Three red buoys (two are mooring buoys) are off the east side of the pier, from which they are distant about 80 yards ; a narrow 3-fathoms shoal extends out nearly 400 yards midway between the breakwater and railway piers. There are two red mooring buoys on the west side of the pier. West railway pier, 300 yards westward of the railway pier, is 500 feet long, with a depth of 30 feet at its outer end, and 13 to 22 feet alongside it. On this pier are 30-ton sheer legs. Ann's wharf, 2^ cables West of the railway pier, projects from the shore N. by E. about 500 feet into 22 feet water. From about 400 feet within the end of this wharf, the dockyard wharf extends to the inner part of the patent slip jetties, and encloses the dockyard reserve. Ligrllt. — A fixed green light is shown from the end of Ann's wharf, visible 3 miles. Gem pier. — From the inner patent slip, the shore continues westward a little more than one cable, to the Gem pier, which projects N. by E. 480 feet from the shore into 8 feet water. Docks and Slips. — The Alfred graving dock, which was opened in 1874, is about 100 yards westward of the railway pier ; its dimensions are : — Length over all 470 feet ; available length on floor to side of caisson, 459 feet ; breadth of entrance, 80 feet ; depth over sill at high water, ordinary springs, 27 feet. With a long continuance of northerly and easterly winds the depth on the sill is not more than 25| feet at high water ordinary springs.* Immediately westward of the Alfred dock are the two entrance jetties of the Government patent slip, which has a cradle 200 feet long, and can receive vessels of 1,500 tons weight. Between Ann's wharf and Gem pier is Wright and Orr's patent slip for vessels of 400 tons register. There are also floating docks 210 and 154 feet long, with the breadth of * In November 1887, H.M.S. Xelson, drawing 24 feet 10 inches, was floated in the dock with a view to undockin^. The tide however failed, the depth on the dock sill at high water being 24 feet 1 inch. On the following day the depth on the sill was 24 feet 4 inches. The ship was undocked on the third day after a delay of 40 hours. It is intended to lengthen this dock 120 feet. See chart, No. 624. I UISTTVF Chap. VI.] HOBSON BAY. — PIERS, DOCKS, RAILWAYS. 461 entrance 36 and 35 feet, capable of lifting ships of about 700 tons register, drawing 13 and 11 feet. The Victorian Government has a complete set of workshops and factories in connection with the Alfred dock. For repairs see page 495. Railways. — Within the railway pier is the terminus of the Melbourne and Williamstown railway which curves and forms nearly a semicircle to Melbourne, which is distant about 9 miles. From Geelong junction, about 2^ miles from the Williamstown terminus, the Geelong and Ballarat railway branches to the westward. The Western shore. — From about 150 yards West of Gem pier the shore trends nearly N.N.W. 5 cables ; it then curves to the N.W. and N.N.E. for a mile to a point near which are the directing^ walls of the river Yarra, and where is the Williamstown steam ferry. The water frontage of North Williamstown extends to- the north-west about one mile from the Gem pier. About 3 cables N.N.W. of the Gem pier is the Stevedore pier, 550 feet long, with a depth of 7 feet at its outer end. There are also several boat jetties and sheds along this frontage. From the east side of the Williamstown steam ferry, the shore trends eastward nearly 1 J miles to Port Melbourne railway pier ; one and a half cables West of which some baths extend 300 feet into the sea, and close to the baths is a pier, 400 feet long, with a depth of 12 feet at its end. Nearly one mile West of Port Melbourne railway pier is the Prisoner's jetty, 700 feet long, with a depth of 12 feet at its end. Banks. — Between Ann's wharf and Gem pier, the one-fathom line extends from 50 to 300 yards off shore ; from the Gem pier it trends to the northward (a small bight, with 13 to 7 feet water, running in to the Stevedore pier) nearly half a mile ; it then turns west towards the stone embankment on the south side of the river Yarra. The north-western bight of Hobson bay is occupied by a bank extending nearly across it. The 3-fathoms edge of this bank from the end of Ann's wharf trends irregularly to about 1^ cables north- eastward of the Williamstown railway pier ; it then extends N. by E. See chart, No. 624. 4C2 PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. VI. and North nearly one mile, and from that curves inwards towards the inner end of the Port Melbourne railway pier. The entrance of the river Yarra has been dredged through this bank. Buoys. — A gas buoy is placed in 21 feet at low water, with the •end of Williamstown railway pier bearing S. J E. nearly 2^ cables. It exhibits an occulting white light. A wreck green buoy lies in 18 feet water, with the end of Port Melbourne railway pier bearing E. J N. 2J cables. Compass adjusting: buoys. — Five buoys for this purpose are moored in 16 feet at low water, about 5 J cables to the westward of Port Melbourne railway pier, and may be used free on applicition to the Chief Harbour Master. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, in Hobson bay, at •2h. 31m. ; springs rise 2 ft. 8 in. ; neaps, 2 ft. 2 in. ; neaps range 1 ft. 10 in. Anch.Orag'e.* — Between the banks which extend from the eastern and western shores of Hobson bay, there is a space of about 2 square miles, capable of affording shelter, in 3 to 5 fathoms water, with good holding ground of mud. The bay is open to southerly gales, which send in sufficient sea to interrupt traffic ; but small vessels can at all times find shelter off Williamstown. The Torpedo ground lies south of WilliamstoAvn breakwater pier, betweea lines drawn from Gellibrand light-vessel to the outer end of that breakwater pier, and from the light- vessel to the Time ball tower. Mariners are cautioned not to anchor in the vicinity. Danger buoys. — Red spar beacon buoys have been placed 2,000 yards off shore at Williamstown rifle ranges. Vessels are -cautioned to keep outside these buoys. YARRA RIVER is a narrow winding stream, rising about 65 miles to the eastward in the Dividing range ; from Hobson bay to Melbourne its length is about 5^ miles. The entrance to the river in Hobson bay has been dredged for a distance of half a mile from the gas buoy ; thence to the Queen's bridge at Melbourne, the river is ■*' walled," " piled," and dredged. There is not less than 19 feet water in the river at low water. * Portions of the wreck of the Cajje Verde still remaining- in the mud at ,S. 36"^ E 3,900 feet from the Breakwater pier end,, it is inadvisable to anchor in the vicinity. There is a depth of 81 feet over all parts of the wreck. — January 1896. See chart, No. 624. Chap. VI. RIVER YARRA. 463 The channel at the gas buoy in the bay is about 1,000 feet in width ; it narrows to about 300 feet at the commencement of the retaining walls, and is between 150 and 300 feet wide to Melbourne. The distance between the retaining walls is from 300 to 350 feet. The course of the river is to the N.W. for IJ miles from the entrance, then to the North for a mile, whence it curves to the N.E. and East to Melbourne. At about 2 miles from the entrance is Stony creek, on the west side, and 2 cables further, on the east side, are timber jetties. Six cables from Stony creek the old course of the river turns to the North for three-quarters of a mile, where it is joined by the Saltwater river ; it then curves to the East and S.E. round Coode island ; the new channel curves to the eastward on the south side of the island. There is a depth of 12 feet at low water in the channel to Footscray. Within about IJ miles from the Queen's bridge there are wharves on both sides of the river ; three-quarters of a mile from the bridge is a swinging basin, 550 feet across. Ships have to lighten to 19 feet before proceeding to Melbourne, and the speed must not exceed 5 knots. Only masters exempt from pilotage for the port are permitted to navigate their vessels in the river without the services of a pilot. Buoys. — The channel is marked by buoys, about a cable apart, as far as the Williamstown steam ferry. Proceeding inwards are black buoys, each alternate buoy being a gas buoy and exhibiting a light,, to be left on the port hand, and red buoys, the outer being a gas buoy and exhibiting a light, to be left on the starboard hand. Docks. — At Melbourne are two dry docks — Duke's dock, 480 feet in length over all, 50 feet breadth of entrance, and 16 feet depth over sill at high water springs ; this dock can be divided into two parts, respectively 300 and 180 feet in length ; and Wright and Orr's dock, 330 feet in length over all, 46 feet breadth of entrance, and 17 feet depth over sill at high water springs. The West Melbourne wet dock has an area of about 90 acres. For repairs see page 495. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, in Yarra river, at ee chart, No. 624. 464 PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. VI. Queen's Wharf, Melbourne, at 2h. 48m. ; springs rise 2ft. 8in. The rate of the stream of Yarra river depends on the rains that have fallen ; but it generally runs down. The North-western shore of port Phillip, from the south extreme of point Gellibrand, extends irregularly, W. by N. IJ miles, to a low rocky point, and thence N.W. ^ W. two-thirds of a mile to the entrance of Kororoit creek, which trends to the westward. The 3-fathoms edge of the foul rocky ground which borders the shore projects 600 yards except about midway between the two points, where there are 3 fathoms at 300 yards from the shore. A small rocky patch, at the extremity of a spit projecting 400 yards from the shore, lies E. by S. ^ S. 4^ cables from the low rocky point. From Kororoit creek the shore trends S.W. by W. If miles to the point of Altona, and is also bordered by a rocky bank, extending- H miles south-eastward off Altona point, with 7 to 18 feet water and shoal patches upon it. From the south point of this bank the south extreme of point Gellibrand bears N.E. by E. ^ E. distant 2 miles^ Two bights, having 3^ and 3j fathoms water, run half a mile inta this bank from the south-eastward. The north-eastern bight, which is close to the low rocky point before noticed, approaches the mouth of Kororoit creek to one-third of a mile, with 3 fathoms water. Beacon. — On the outer shoal patch in Altona bay is a black beacon,, consisting of a mast and ball, 10 feet above low water. Jetty. — From Altona a jetty projects about 380 yards to the southward ; there is a depth of 10 feet at its outer end at low water. Buoy. — A black buoy is moored 2^ cables to the south-east of the end of Altona jetty. From the point of Altona a low shore, with several small lagoons close behind it, forms a shoal bay, barely one mile deep, extending. S.S.W. 4 miles to point Cook. At midway between the two points: is the mouth of Skeleton creek, which winds through the low swampy ground to the north-westward. The 3-fathoms edge of th'> shoal, which fills this bay, extends beyond the line of the two points^, and forms, midway, a spit projecting southward to N.E. ^ N. 1| miles, from point Cook. Point Cook is low and rocky, with a spit, extending one mile to >S^e chart, No. 1,1 7 U. Chap. VI.] NORTH-WESTERN SHORE. — PORTARLINGTON. 465 the eastward, having 10 feet water at its extremity, at half-way between which and the shore there is a rocky patch with 3 and 4 feet water on it. Buoy. — A black buoy is moored in 4| fathoms water, at a quarter of a mile off the spit, with point Cook bearing West, distant IJ miles. A dynamite hulk is moored in 20 feet water with the buoy bearing S. by E. ^ E. about 7 cables distant. From point Cook a continuation of the low north-western shore of port Phillip trends S.W. J W., 6 miles to Werribee river. At 2 miles S.W. of point Cook there is a low projection, whence rocky shoals, with 3 and 4 feet water on them, project half a mile. The 3-fathoms edge of the shoal water, which borders the shore, extends from one-third of a mile off point Cook to about the same distance off the rocky shoals just mentioned. Thence to Werribee river the 3-fathoms edge of the shoal water generally extends a little more than a mile from the shore ; and from the mouth of the river, a spit, with 16 feet water on its extremity, projects 1 J miles to the south-east. Werribee river has a 3-feet bar across its entrance, within which the first reach trends westward about one mile. It is about one cable wide, with one to 2 fathoms water. Above this reach the river is merely a small stream, flowing in a winding direction from the north-north-west. The Western arm of port Phillip forms the approach to Geelong. The Southern shore of the Western arm, after a slight curve for a little more than three-quarters of a mile in a N.W. by W. direction from point George, extends W. by N. 1^ miles, and thence, with a slight bend to the southward, nearly West If miles to point Richards. From about the middle of this bend, a mile East from point Richards, Portarlington jetty projects from the shore to the edge of the one-fathom line. Portarlingrton is a small township 63 miles in a south-westerly direction from Melbourne by land, and 23 miles across the bay. It is a watering place, and there is telegraphic communication. The population in 1891 was 852. The district is an agricultural one. Ligrht. — ^A fixed green light is exhibited from a white wooden framework erection on Portarlington jetty, at an elevation of 22 feet See ciiart, No. 1,1 71 J. 80 11712 2 a 466 PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. VI. above high water, visible from any direction seaward, for a distance of 5 miles in clear weather. For the first 2 miles from point George, shoal spits and detached patches, with 2 to 6 feet water on them project upwards of one-third of a mile to a quarter of a mile from the shore. From one mile N.W. of point George to half a mile East of point Richards the 3-fathoms edge of a continuation of Prince George bank extends one-third of a mile to a quarter of a mile from the shore ; but from point Richards it projects N.W. by N. half a mile to a spit with 10 feet water on it. Point Richards gas buoy. — A quarter of a mile to the north- ward of the spit is a black gas buoy, moored in 4^ fathoms, with point Richards, bearing S.S.E., distant three-quarters of a mile. This buoy exhibits an occulting red light, which is occulted from 6 to 8 times every minute, and is visible from a distance of 6 miles in clear weather. From point Richards the shore trends S.W. 4| miles to Drysdale jetty, which projects about 400 yards from the land. Drysdale had a population of 340 in 1891. There is communica- tion by railway and telegraph. Light. — From the end of Drysdale jetty, a fixed white light is ■exhibited, which should be seen in clear weather from a distance of 5 miles. For the first 1 J miles south-westward of point Richards, a bank, with 3 to 4 feet water on it, extends nearly two-thirds of a mile from shore. From the outer edge of this bank, close to which there are 3 and 4 fathoms water, the 3-fathoms edge of the shoal water bordering the shore trends south-westward to half a mile off Drysdale jetty. Three or four detached patches, with 3 to 6 feet water on them, lie between 1^ and 2J miles S.W. of point Richards. There are only 6 feet water at about one cable off the jetty, and between half a mile and If miles to the north-east of it, spits, with 3 to 4^ feet water on them, project about one-third of a mile from the shore. The shore from Drysdale jetty trends W. by S. \ S. 2\ miles to a slight projection of the land forming the south point of the south entrance of the channel to Geelong outer harbour ; some rocks lie See chart, No. 1,171J. 't^hap. VI.] APPROACH TO GEBLONG HARBOUR. 46T -3 of a cable north of it, haul up to S.W. by W. (S. 56° W.) for the red gas buoy off Wilson spit ; pass to the southward of this buoy, and midway between it and the black and white buoy moored nearly 3 cables to the south-westward. If drawing less than 14 feet steer W.S.W. from point Richards buoy^ pass south of the red conical buoy nearly 2 miles N. by E. ^ E. from Wilson spit buoy, and cross over the bank extending from point Wilson. See page 467. Working' up. — From the West channel to Geelong, with a contrary wind between the West channel lighthouse and the north-east extreme of Prince George bank, do not stand into less than 5 fathoms, nor bring the lighthouse east of S. by E., until north of the Prince George buoy, between which and the buoy off point Richards do not stand into less than 5 fathoms, nor bring that point west of W. by S. From point Richards to point Henry the south shore should not be approached to less than 4 fathoms ; and the north shore to less than 5 fathoms, until west of Wilson spit, which is marked by the red gas buoy off it. At nigllt. — From about 2 cables eastward of West channel pile light steer N. by W. (N. 11° W.), keeping the pile light white, as it shows red over Prince George bank, and pass east of Prince George buoy, which shows an occulting white light. When half a mile northward of this buoy steer W. \ S. (S. 84° W.) and pass north or point Richards buoy, which shows an occulting red light. Thence steer about S.W. by W. (S. 56° W.) and round the Wilson spit buoy> which shows an occulting white light, at the distance of a cable^ leaving it to the northward. Sea charts, Nos. 1,171a and h, and No. 2,731. 488 PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. VI. From point Richards buoy, if drawing less than 14 feet steer S.W. by W. i W. (S. 62° W.), and when the eastern fixed white light of the Hopetoun channel bears W. | S. (S. 82° W.) proceed into the Outer harbour with it on that bearing. Anchorage. — To anchor in the Outer harbour of Geelong, steer about W.N.W. (N. 67° W.) from Wilson spit red gas buoy, and come to in 4^ fathoms, with point Henry bluff bearing W.S.W. (S. 67° W.), at about one mile from the shore. From the Outer to the Inner harbour.— South channel. — From Wilson spit red gas buoy steer N.W. by W. (N. 56° W.) for the buoys at the entrance of the Artificial cut. In passing through the cut leave the red conical buoys on the starboard, and the black can on the port, hand, and then steer direct for the Bird rock beacon, until the black buoys and beacons, which mark the south side of South channel, begin to be brought in line, when haul sharp up and proceed through the channel, keeping midway between the two lines of beacons. Vessels drawing 24 feet can, by choosing a proper time of tide, and employing steam, pass through the channel, from the Outer to the Inner harbour, and go close up to the Geelong wharves. Caution. — As both streams set across the entrance of the South channel, care must be taken that the vessel is kept under good command, to prevent her being set on either bank. When using the Hopetoun or the Geelong South channels, their limited width must be especially remembered, so that every precau- tion may be taken to avoid collision with other vessels, or with the buoys or beacons. It is not advisable for vessels to pass each other from opposite directions in these channels ; but a vessel should wait outside either entrance when another vessel is seen entering from an opposite direction, until she has passed through. North channel. — A vessel of less than 9 feet draught bound from the Outer to the Inner harbour may proceed for the buoys at the entrance of the Artificial cut, and having passed through this channel, as before directed, steer to leave the eastern black can buoy of the South channel on the port hand, and the red conical buoy with staff and globe S.W. of Bird rock on the starboard hand ; then steer for the east black buoy of the North channel, leaving it and /Si?« chart, No. 2,731. Chap. VI.] OBELONG HARBOUR, DIRECTIONS. 489 the black buoys and beacon of the channel on the port, and the red buoy and beacon on the starboard, hand. Hopetoun channel. — From Wilson spit red gas buoy steer about W.N.W. (N. 67° W.) for the eastern light beacon. Then enter the channel and keep the beacons marking the north side of the channel on the starboard hand and the beacons marking the south side on the port hand. As the channel is only 110 feet in width careful steerage is necessary. At nigrht. — In navigating the Hopetoun channel at night leave the white lights marking the north side of the channel on the starboard hand entering from the outer harbour, and the red lights marking the south side of the channel on the port hand. Note. — The speed of steam vessels navigating the Hopetoun channel or the Geelong South channel is not to exceed 5 miles an hour, and no sailing vessel is to enter either of the above channels whilst any other vessel is proceeding through such channel in an opposite direction. For signals to be made by vessels aground in this channel, see page 479. ANCHORAGES. — Having cleared the South channel steer S.W. \ S. (S. 39° W.) 3 miles and anchor in 4J fathoms, 3 cables northward of the Geelong wharves ; the bottom being soft mud mixed with sand and clay, a long scope of chain is necessary in strong winds, to prevent the vessel from driving. Having cleared the North channel steer S.W. by S. (S. 34° W.) 3J miles, and anchor off Geelong wharves, as directed when coming from the South channel. Having cleared the west or inner beacon of Hopetoun channel, steer about S.W. \ W. (S. 51° W.) nearly 1| miles and anchor as above directed. Gunpowder anchoragres.— /S'ee page 499. Mooring^. — All vessels in Geelong harbour must moor, for which purpose every vessel should be provided with a strong mooring swivel. From GEELONG to HOBSON BAY.— If drawing more than 14 feet, after passing through the South channel and the See chart, No. 2,731. 490 PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. VI. Artificial cut, proceed S.E. by E. (S. 56° E.), or on passing through the Hopetoun channel E.S.E. (S. 67° E.), for Wilson spit red gas buoy, from whence the course is N.E. i N. (N. 42° E.), and the distance 25^ miles, to point Gellibrand light-vessel. In a vessel of heavy draught, first steer N.E. | E. (N. 48° E.) until Station peak beara W.N.W. (N. 67° W.), and then alter course to N.E. i N. (N. 39° E.) for point Gellibrand, to avoid the shoal water off Werribee river, and be outside the 5-fathoms edge of the bank between it and point Gellibrand, passing two-thirds of a mile off the black buoy which marks the shoal projecting from point Cook, From HOBSON BAY to SEA by the West channel.— Sailing vessels bound to sea from Hobson bay by the West channel will generally clear the heads the same day, by leaving Hobson bay two or three hours before daylight, when there is frequently a moderate land or northerly wind. A S. by W. I W. (S. 14° W.) course for 20 miles, from a fair berth off the light-vessel, leads, to the West channel lighthouse, where, if prevented by southerly gales from proceeding through the channel, there is good anchorage with the lignthouse bearing S. by W. (S. 11° W.), and Station peak just shut in with Indented head. From the northern entrance proceed through the West channel, following inversely, the directions already given for going northward, keeping the red conical and No. 12 red gas buoys on the port, and the black can buoys on the starboard, hand. Having passed Swan spit black gas buoy at the distance of one cable, steer about S.W. by W. (S. 56° W.), passing between No. 1 black can buoy on the starboard, and the Royal George No. 2 red gas buoy on the port hand, and keeping point Lonsdale a little open of Shortland bluff. When between No. 1 and No. 2 buoys steer to pass a quarter of a mile off Shortland bluff and then bring the Shortland bluff lighthouses in line bearing N.E. by N. (N. 34° E.), which mark kept on astern leads between the heads to sea ; due attention must be paid to the tidal streams which do not set fairly through the channel. South channel. — From Hobson bay to sea by the South channel steer from Gellibrand light-vessel about S. | E. (S. 8° E.) 27 miles, for No. 15 black gas buoy, which marks the east spit of the Middle See charts, No. 2,781, Nos. 1,171a and b, and Nos. 2,747a and b. Chap. VI.] HOBSON BAY TO SEA. 491 ground, after rounding which haul up S.W. by W. (S. 56° W.) for the White cliff, until South channel pile lighthousa comes open to the northward of Observatory point flagstaff; then steer for the lighthouse, pass close northward of the gas buoys marking the south edge of the dredged channel, and about one cable south of No. 9 buoy, then gradually bring the pile lighthouse in line with the Eastern lighthouse ; these kept in line astern, bearing E. | S. (S. 82° E.), lead down in mid-channel ; the red conical buoys are left on the port, and the black can and gas buoys on the starboard hand. Keep the leading mark on and pass 2^ cables South of No. 3 black can buoy and 4 cables South of No. 1 black cani buoy. In ships of heavy draught avoid the 26 and 28 feet patches about midway between these buoys, 1^ cables to the north and one cable to the south of the track. From 4 cables South of No. 1 buoy steer W. ^ S. (S. 84° W.) leaving the Popes Eye red and white buoy 6 cables on the starboard hand, taking care to keep Barwon head just open of point Lonsdale until Shortland bluff lighthouses are in line N.E. by N. (N 34° E.), with which marks on astern, proceed out between the heads to sea, or if in a vessel of heavy- draught, bring the beacons in Lonsdale bight in line bearing N.N.W. J W. (N. 25° W.), and steer out with them so astern, see pages 477, 478, paying due attention to the tidal streams.* At nigrllt. — From Hobson bay at night steer about S. | E. (S. 8° E.) ; the Eastern light will then be made nearly ahead, and when the occulting white light of No. 15 buoy is seen steer to pass to the eastward of it. Having passed the buoy at a distance of about 2 cables, continue to the southward till the pile light has fully changed from white to red, then alter course towards it, bearing in mind that the northern limit of the red light passes less than a cable south of the Middle ground. Pass close northward of the fixed green and the fixed white lights of the gas buoys marking the dredged channel ; then gradually bring the pile and Eastern lights in line astern bearing E. | S., which lead through the South channel. When point Lonsdale light bears about W. by S., the northern limit of the deep red light, steer for it, until Shortland bluff low light changes * H.M.S. " Cordelia " in 1892, passed to sea between the heads against a strong in-going tidal stream and a moderate south-west gale with a heavy sea ; the ship had plenty of steam and no difl&culty was experienced. iSeg charts, Nos. 1,171a and h, and Nos. 2,747« and b. 492 PORT PHLLLIP. [Chap. VI. from white to red. Then bring the Shortland bluff lights in line astern, bearing N.E. by N. (N. 34° E.), which lead between the heads to sea. Attention must ba given to the tidal streams. Working. — Vessels leaving Hobson bay against strong southerly winds, especially during the summer months, when these winds prevail, will get to sea sooner by working down the eastern side of port Phillip, and going through the South channel, where having smooth water, they will be enabled to lead through the South channel, down to the entrance between the heads ; by beating down the middle of port Phillip, and taking the West channel, more swell will be experienced, and a large vessel probably have to anchor off the West channel lighthouse, and wait for a shift of wind. To work out between the heads, the tidal streams must be attended to, and it is better to do so near slack water, when the race is nearly quiescent and greater command of the vessel obtained. With an out-going tidal stream and light winds, be careful not to be drawn into the bight between Shortland bluff and point Lonsdale, the stream setting from thence directly over Lonsdale reef. A vessel within its influence, nearly becalmed, and having only her sails to trust to, has no resource but that of dropping her anchor, which she is nearly certain to lose, from the rocky nature of the ground. From GEELONG to SEA by tlie West channeL— From the Artificial cut steer S.E. by E. (S. 56° E.), or from the east end of the Hopetoun channel E.S.E. (S. 67° E.), for Wilson spit red gas buoy, and from thence N.E. by E. (N. 56° E.) for the black gas buoy off Richards point. Having passed close outside this buoy, haul -in E. ^ N. (N. 84° E.) to go half a mile northward of the black gas buoy off Prince George bank, and when the buoy bears S. by W. ^ W. (S. 17° W.), steer S. by E. J E. (B. 14° E.) for the West channel pile lighthouse whence proceed through the channel and to sea, as directed when going from Hobson bay. By the Soutll dianiiel. — From Geelong to sea, proceed as just directed, to half a mile northward of the black gas buoy off Prince George bank ; and from thence proceed S.E. ^ S. (S. 39 E). 15 miles for No. 15 black gas buoy, which marks the eastern spit of the Middle ground, and having rounded this, follow the directions given for proceeding to sea from Hobson bay by the South channel. See charts, Nos. 2,747a and b, and Nos. 1,171a and b. Chap. VI.] GBBLONG TO SEA. — TIDES. 493 Anchoragre, — Vessels having good ground tackle may, if necessary, anchor in any part of port Phillip above the entrance banks, there being nowhere a greater depth than 15 fathoms, and good holding ground. Outside the heads. — Steam and coasting vessels from port Phillip bound round cape Otway, encountering heavy weather, might, instead of running back to the heads, find shelter in Louttit bay, in 5 to 7 fathoms, about half a mile from the shore, sheltered from all winds from South, round westerly, to N.E. ; or in Apollo bay, in from 4^ to 7 fathoms, at about half a mile to a mile off shore. Vessels availing themselves of either of these bays have only to round the reefs off the points, at a moderate distance, taking care to avoid the Henty reef, and may then choose an anchorage in 5^ fathoms, sand, ^ee pages 425-6. TIDES. — Within the heads the tides are most irregular, the narrow entrance to the large basin within checking the fair course of the tidal wave ; hence after southerly gales it may be high water all day, and the contrary with northerly gales. On the average, it is high water, full and change at : — * Entrance to Port Phillip . Dromana bay Snapper point Bellarine jetty Bird rock Point Henry, Geelong Williamstown Hobson bay- Queen's Wharf, ) o ^« o a Melbourne - j *With the view to the determination of the true establishment of the entrance to port Pliillip, it is proposed (April 1895) to erect registering tide gauges at cape Schanck, Eagle Nest point, po'nt Nepean, Queenscliff, and the South and West channel pile lighthouses. See charts, Nos. 2,747^ and I, Nos. 1,171a and &, and No. 1,694. h. m. ft. in. ft. in. ;(at 2 springs lApproxiviate.l rise - "~ » neaps rise — » 2 19 » 3 >» 2 6 >» 2 14 » 2 8 » 2 ?> 2 21 >» 2 6 » 2 •>"> 2 30 )» 3 6 • 2 6 \ '* 2 39 >? 3 » 2 G :t" 2 31 »> 2 8 »' 2 2 41)4 PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. VI. The mean water, or half tide level, varies as much as the rise and fall of the tide, it being influenced by the strength and direction of the wind outside the heads. Southerly gales cause an elevation of both high and low water, and northerly gales have a contrary effect ; the latter sometimes keeps back the flood tide for an hour, qx even 1^ hours later than the time by calculation. See page 442. TIDAL STREAMS.— The streams turn from 2 to 3 hours after high and low water on the shore. In the middle of the entrance between point Lonsdale and point Nepean the period of slack water is very limited. For tidal signals, see page 431. Set of the In-going" stream. — The In-going stream comes from the southward and eastward, increases in strength as it nears the heads, sets right into the entrance, across and through the reefs, with great force, and spreads towards Shortland bluff and point King. The stream decreases in strength as it enters the channels, setting tow^ards Swan point and through the West channel in an oblique direction, tending towards Coles channel and Indented head ; and above the West channel lighthouse, north-westward across Prince George bank ; spreading from thence towards Geelong, point Cook, and Hobson bay. In the South channel the stream sets to the E.N.E., across the Middle ground, through Pinnace channel, and spreads along the eastern shore towards Hobson bay. Set of the Out-going stream.— The Out-goihg stream sets out of Hobson bay south-eastward for a few miles, when it takes a more southerly direction towards Prince George bank ; it then passes obliquely through the various channels, the stream from 8ymonds channel joining and turning that of the West channel below the Koyal George sand, setting towards the bight between Shortland bluff and point Lonsdale, and from thence out through the heads at a great rate ; the body of the stream setting athwart the entrance towards point Nepean, and away south-eastward along the land and in to the shore between point Nepean and cape Schanck. Between the heads the stream runs from 5 to 7 knots ; in the West iind South channels between 2 and 3 knots ; and about 1^ knots in .the ixT-oad space above the -channels. In Hobson bay during the winter months, there is always a surface current running out, owing to the freshets from the river Yarra ; this current frequently sets along both sides of the bay, at the rate of 2 knots. The stream is iS"**? charts, Nos. 1,171a and &. Chap. VI,] TIDAL STREAMS.— REPAIRS. 495 weak in Geelong bay, but in the North channel it sets 2^ knots across the bar, and becomes weaker as it spreads over the Inner harbour of Geelong. Mooring'.— All vessels in Hobson bay and Geelong harbour must moor with two anchors, for which purpose every vessel should be provided with a strong mooring swivel. Repairs. — There are several foundries in Melbourne and Williamstown capable of undertaking marine repairs of every description. At Geelong there is a firm that can execute large repairs. COBl.—See page 9. Water. — Vessels in Hobson bay can water by sending boats under the spout at the Port Melbourne watering-place, or be supplied by floating tanks. Water Police. — The water police are quartered on board a vessel in Hobson bay, and at all times row guard amongst the shipping. Signals. — The following signals are in use at the ports of Victoria : — ( White flag at the fore, to be kept flying till Mails on board - - 1 ^. ., x ^ xi, i,- ( the mails are out of the ship. Gunpowder on board - Pilot jack at the main. Government emigrants on board - Ensign at the mizen head. Sea pilot - - - Pilot jack at the fore mast-head. Harbour pilot - - Ensign at the fore mast-head. Boarding officer - - Blue flag at the main. Medical assistance - - Letter B at the peak. [ Daj' signal. Ensign at the main mast-head ; Water police - - J by night, two lights vertical, five feet / apart, at any mast-head or peak. Customs boat - - Pilot jack at the peak. Steam-boats - - Rendezvous flag at the peak or mizen-mast. Clearing officer out- ) White flag at the main when the ship is wards - - - ) ready for sea. Water - - - - Letter M at mizen. TT UVi ffi ' l^^si^^ ^* main-mast head with blue flag ( underneath. Quarantine - - - Yellow flag at the main. See charts, Nos. 1,1 71 « and b. 496 PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. vi. Launching vessels from^ patentslipsorbuilding(R«* ^"^ ""^ ^^-^^^ "''^ ^"""^ ^^^"^'^ yards- - - -j la"nching. Ballast - - - - Letter S at mizen. And from the signal station : — Sailing yessel in sight making for port A ball at the yard arm -^ ^^^"^ eastward or westward as ball is hoisted at East or West yard arm. Hauled down when anchored. ( Steamer in sight making for port from eastward or westward as ball is hoisted and at the yard arm - j . Tn , -itt x j '' (^ at East or West yard arm. Flag P at mast-head - Bad weather signal, cannot work in the bay. A ball at the mast-head J Wharf regrulation. — The propelling engines of any vessel are not to be worked whilst moored alongside any wharf in the ports of Victoria without permission of the p ort or wharf authority. Time signals. — A black time ball is dropped daily, Sundays excepted, from a staff on the time ball tower at Gellibrand point, at Ih. Om. Os. p.m., standard time of Victoria, equivalent to 15 h. Om. Os. Greenwich mean time. This signal when hoisted is 72 feet above high water and the drop is 11 feet. The ball is dropped by electricity from Melbourne Observatory. An error of one-third of a second is notified in the next day's newspapers. See page 30. A ball is also dropped from the telegraph office, Geelong, at Ih. Om. Os. p.m., standard time of Victoria, equivalent to 15 h. Om. Os. Greenwich mean time. This signal is 122 feet above high water and the drop is 12 feet. The ball is dropped by electricity from Melbourne Observatory. At the signal station, Queenscliff, a flag is dipped in coincidence with the time ball signal. These signals are not made on Sundays or public holidays. Position.— Melbourne Observatory is in latitude 37° 49'^53" S., and in longitude 144° 58' 32" E. of Greenwich. Adjustment of compasses. — The fall of mount Macedon is a good distant mark to use, when swinging in Hobson bay, to ascertain the deviation of the compass. See page 462. See chart, No. 624. Chap. VI.] TIME SIGNALS.— ADJUSTMENT OF COMPASSES. 497 There are several compass adjusters, who, if required, swing the vessel and furnish tables of deviation, for which they make a small charge. A buoy for the adjustment of compasses is moored off the end of the railway pier, Geelong. From it the angle between the lamp post at the end of the railway pier and the gas works chimney is 102° 50', and between the lamp post at the end of the railway pier and chimney, Volumn's brewery, 45° 44'. The magnetic bearings of the undermentioned marks from the buoy are as follows, the magnetic variation being considered 7° 52' E. Station peak, N. 6° 5' E. Flag staff, point Henry, N. 73° 3' E. Conspicuous tree, Stingaree bay, S. 84° 41' E. Flagstaff, Botanic gardens, S. 37° 33' E. Conspicuous tree in hollow, mount Anakie, N. 24° 51' W. Chimney, Geelong gasworks, N. 38° 52' W. Before using this buoy for swinging ship, it should be ascertained that it is in position. Barometers. — With the view of enabling masters to test the accuracy of their barometers, the Government Astronomer issues daily in the newspapers a notice from the Williamstown Observatory, showing the height of the standard barometer for the previous day, a comparison with which and the height of the vessel's barometer — the altitude being the same — will show the error, if any. The attention of masters of vessels is specially invited to this notice, as it is evident that the value of meteorological data, collected by different vessels, will be materially enhanced by the barometer readings agreeing with the standard. Ship's Log-books.— The Chief of the Melbourne Magnetic Observatory invites masters of vessels to deposit their log-books with him for a few days, to enable him to glean facts important to nautical science, for the purpose of constructing wind and current charts of these coasts. The immigration officer will take charge of any log-books for transmission to the Observatory, and return them within four days. See charts, Nos. 1,171« an«1 h, No. 624, and No. 2,731. SO 11712 2 I 498 PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. VI. Port Regulations. — Quarantine. — Masters of vessels arriving, report to the pilot the places at which they loaded and touched, and answer all questions respecting the health of the crew and passengers, under penalty of 1001. The pilot is to give notice to the master if the vessel is liable to quarantine, whereupon he shall hoist a yellow flag, under penalty on the master of 100/. Pilots conducting vessels liable to quarantine to any place not specially appointed for such vessels, liable to a penalty of 200/. A master refusing to deliver to the superintendent of the quarantine station the bill of health, manifest^ &c., liable to a penalty of 100/. A master quitting, or sufl'ering persons to quit, his vessel, if liable to quarantine, or not conveying such vessel to the place appointed, liable to a penalty of 400/. Persons quitting such vessels liable to a penalty of 300/. and six months' imprisonment. And all persons neglecting duty, damaging goods, or landing, receiving, or secreting goods, &c., from vessels liable to, and actually performing, quarantine, are subject to penalties varying from 100/. to 500/. All vessels from other than Australian ports must undergo an examination at the Heads by the health officer. Gunpowder. — The master of every ship arriving in any port of Victoria with gunpowder on board shall specially report the same at the time of making entry at the Custom-house. All vessels, entering or in, the ports of Tictoria having more than 20 pounds of gun- powder on board shall hoist the pilot jack at the main. Gunpowder may be landed only between 7 a.m. and 5 p.m. No boat shall be used for the conveyance of gunpowder, either to or from any ship or w^harf or other place, unless duly licensed for that purpose, and no gunpowder shall be landed or conveyed from the ship until notice shall have been given to the water police (if there be any) ut the port or place where the ship shall lie, in sufficient time to enable the police to give such directions as may be necessary to prevent danger ; which directions the person in charge of such gunpowder shall obey. Boats licensed to convey explosives are subject to all the regulations for the management of hulks containing explosives ; and no boat &'e chart, No. 624. Chap. VI.] JHELBOURNE. 499 with explosives on board shall be towed by a high pressure open- decked steam-boat, whose furnaces are exposed, or by any steamer with less tow-line than 60 feet in length, and no steamer shall approach within 60 feet of any hulk, lighter, or boat containing explosives. No gunpowder shall be ' removed from any ship for conveyance to the magazine except between the hours of 7 a.m. and 4 p.m., and gunpowder shall only be permitted to be deposited in the magazine between those hours. Vessels receiving gunpowder must be anchored beyond the limits within which ships having gunpowder on board are not permitted to anchor, and it may only be put on board between the hours of 7 a.m. and 4 p.m. The importer of gunpowder, at any port where there is a public, or licensed private, magazine, shall within 24 hours after the arrival of the importing ship enter such gunpowder at the Custom-house and obtain, from the principal officer, a permit for the same to be landed and deposited in such magazine. Gunpowder anch.orag'es. — No vessel having more than 20 pounds of gunpowder on board, arriving in or off any of the under-mentioned ports of Victoria shall be permitted to anchor within the limits hereinafter specified, viz. : — Port of Melbourne, within three-quarters of a mile of Gellibrand point ; nor to the northward of a line bearing East from the light-vessel. Geelong Outer harbour, within 2 miles of the shore. Geelong Inner harbour, within three-quarters of a mile of Limeburners point, nor to the westward of a line bearing N.N.W. from that point. Portland bay, within three-quarters of a mile of the shore ; nor to the northward of a line bearing East from the lighthouse. Port Fairy, within three-quarters of a mile of the shore ; nor to the westward of a line bearing N.N.E. from the lighthouse. Port Warrnambool, within half a mile of the shore ; nor to the westward of a line bearing S.S.W. from the beach lighthouse. Port Albert, within 2 miles of the wharves ; nor to the northward of Sunday island. Sec chart, No. 624. SO 11712 2 12 500 PORT PHILLIP. [Chap. VI. Damaging* buoys, &C. — Any person damaging light-vessels, buoys, or beacons is liable to a penalty of 1 OOZ. to 20?. Pilotagre. — The employment of pilots is optional with all vessels belonging to Her Majesty. MELBOURNE. — Few cities can boast of so rapid a rise as Helbourne. It was first settled in 1835, when the population numbered 14. By the census of 1841 its population was 4,440 ; by that of 1846 it was 10,945 ; and by that of 1851, two months before the gold discoveries, it was 23,143. In 1891 the area of the city was 163,942 acres, and the population, including suburbs, amounted to 438,955 inhabitants at the end of 1894. It is the capital of the colony of Victoria, and stands on seven hills, rising gradually from the Yarra ; it is laid out in broad straight streets at right angles to each other, and has many handsome public buildings. Its secure port and central position, with the network of railways and rivers connecting Melbourne with a large portion of Australia, command for it the chief export and import trade of an immense pastoral and agricultural district, independently of the demands of the gold-fields. There is good wharf accommodation for steam vessels and other craft drawing 19 feet water, Yarra river having been made navigable for such. The principal articles of import are, manufactured goods of all kinds, provisions, machinery, railway materials, coal, timber, wine, spirits, &c. The principal exports are gold, live stock, hides, wine, timber, and wool. The principal trade appears to be with the United Kingdom. In 1894 vessels of a tonnage of 4,025,492 entered and cleared at Melbourne. Meteorological observations.— In 1890 at Melbourne, the maximum temperature in the shade was 103*4° Fahr., the minimum 29°, and the mean 58*7° ; the mean height of the barometer was 29*92 inches ; and the amount of rainfall wa& 24*24 inches, rain falling on 140 days. On an average the thermometer rises to above 100° in the shade on 4 days in the year and falls below freezing point on 3 nights in the year. The mean temperature is 57*3°, the maximum registered in the shade for 32 years 111*2°, the minimum 27°. Rain falls on an average on 131 days annually, the amount averaging 25*75 inches. In 25 years the extremes as regards rainfall were 33*76 inches in 1870, and 15*94 inches in 1865. Si-e chart, No. 624. 501 CHAPTER VII. AUSTRALIA. — SOUTH COAST, PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. — BASS STRAIT. Variation in 1897. Cape Schanck, 8°15'E. | Cape Howe, 9° 50' E, Nearly stationary. The COAST from point Nepean trends S.E. | E. 16 miles to cape Schanck, and may be approached to one mile in 8 to 1 6 fathoms. The highest hill along it is 433 feet above the sea, 2 miles north of the cape. CAPE SCHANCK, the southern extremity of the peninsula which separates port Phillip from port Western, is a narrow cliffy head, 278 feet high, close off which is the remarkable Pulpit rock, with a smaller rock lying S. by E., nearly a quarter of a mile from the cape. Caution. — The reef to the southward of Pulpit rock lies S.S.E. about 7 cables from the lighthouse ; in passing the light it must therefore be given a wide berth. Signal station. — There is a signal station at cape Schanck light- house and vessels can communicate by the commercial code. It is connected with the telegraph system. LIGHT. — The lighthouse on the highest part of cape Schanck, at about half a mile N.N.W. from Pulpit rock, is a white circular stone tower about 70 feet high, which exhibits at 328 feet above the sea, a fixed and flashing white light, visible between the bearings of See charts, No. 1,063, Western approach to Bass strait, scale on = 0"19 inch j No. 1,695«. and &, Bass strait, scale 7M = 0*2 inch; No. 1,171«, port Phillip, scale VI = I'O inch ; No. 1,707, port Western, scale m = I'D inch. 502 PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. [Chap. VII. N. 87° W. and S. 53° E., and which may be seen from a distance of 23 miles 'in clear weather. The light shows for one minute, then it is eclipsed for 25 seconds, when it shows for 10 seconds and is again eclipsed for 25 seconds. When within G miles of the light, the eclipses are scarcely observable, and a faint light is seen between the flashes. Dang'er ligllt. — From cape Schanck lighthouse an auxiliary fixed red light is also exhibited. It is visible through an arc of 180° seaward, but is invisible to an observer, whose eye is 14 feet above the sea, until at a distance of 3 miles or less from the light. It is intended to warn mariners of too near approach to the shore, and when seen, course should be altered to seaward until it is out of sight. In misty or hazy weather mariners should not rely on sighting this red light, but should keep a good offing. It is desirable to sight cape Schanck before running far into the great bight for port Phillip ; and if the wind blows strong from the southward, it is unsafe to run without having seen it. The cape is also an excelljent mark for port Western, the western and principal entrance of which lies between 7 and 10 miles eastward of the cape. On the east side of cape Schanck a rocky bight extends E. by N. ^ N. 1^ miles to Barker point ; and at half a mile to the W.N.W. of the point is a small stream of fresh water. From Barker point the coast, which is closely bordered with rocks, trends E. by N. \ N. 5J miles to West head. West head, a cliffy projection 85 feet high, and enclosed by reefs, with a 10-feet rock lyiig S.E. two-thirds of a mile from it ; this head forms the western point of port Western. PORT WESTERN is an e^xtensive bay, protected from the sea by Phillip island, betwee'i the west point of which and West head is the West ent/ance to the port ; the East entrance being a narrow channel separating the east end of the island from the mainland to the eastward. The north shore of port Western, from West head, curves N.N.E. \ E. 1\ miles, and thence E. | S. 5 miles to Sandy point, forming a bight, the north-eastern and greatest portion of which is See charts, No. 1,707 and No. 1,171*. Chap. VII.] PORT WESTERN. 503 occupied by shoal water, thickly strewed with knolls, extending from the shore to Middle bank, which trends S.W. by W. ^ W. 4^ miles, and S.S.W. 2 miles from Sandy point ; and is reported to have extended half a mile further to the south-west. The high land (275 feet) near Barker point open of West head bearing W. by S. ^ S. (S. 73° W.) until Tortoise head bears N.E. | E. (N, 53° E.) clears the south-west edge of the bank. Between the south-west spit of this bank and West head there' are 4 to 10 fathoms. Ligrht. — A fixed light is exhibited, from a lamp-post 24 feet high, on the outer end of Flinders jetty, N.W. two-thirds of a mile from West head. The light is white between the bearings of N. 42° W. and S. 84° W., red north of the latter bearing, and can be seen 4 miles. AncllOragre. — There is a red mooring buoy off the end of the jetty ; to avoid fouling the telegraph cable, anchor off the jetty within the limits of the bearings of the red light by day, and with the red light in sight by night. The telegraph cable from port Dalrymple, Tasmania, is landed here. Grant point, E. by S. \ S. 4^ miles from West head, is a craggy projection, forming the west extreme of Phillip island, and a reef extends W.S.W., a quarter of a mile from it to Round islet, which is 98 feet high. At S.W. | S. three-quarters of a mile from this islet is Black rock, which is 34 feet above high water and fringed by a reef, on which the sea breaks heavily with a southerly swell ; between the reef and Round islet is a passage with 5^ to 7 fathoms water, available for small craft, on an emergency. The south shore of port Western, or the north-west coast of Phillip island, from Grant point, trends N.N.E. one mile to the rocky south-west point of Cat bay ; reefs project a quarter of a mile from this shore and from the south side of the bay. From the bight of this little bay the coast sweeps round N. by E. \ E. 2^ miles to McHaf&e reef, which is marked by a red buoy ; then N.E. 2 miles to Red rock, off which is a red buoy ; and East 5 miles to Observation point, the north-east end of the island ; for the first 4J miles it is bordered by reefs, and thence to the point it is steep and sandy ; none of these reefs project beyond a quarter of a mile from the shore. About 2 miles eastward of Red rock is Cowes jetty, which extends See chart, No. 1,707. 504 PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. [Chap. VII. nearly 400 yards northward. There is a red mooring buoy off its north end. Lig^llt. — A fixed white light is exhibited from the end of Oowes jetty, which should be seen from a distaace of 5 miles in clear weather. The townsllip of Cowes is southward and westward of the jetty ; there is a telegraph station here. Communication is by steamer to Stony point, thence rail. It is a splendid watering place and there is excellent shooting and fishing. Population 340. Observation point, which is low, broken, and swampy, is separated from the higher land south of it by a shallow creek, 2 cables wide at its mouth, whence it branches to the south- westward. The West entrance of port Western, which lies between West head and Grant point, is 3 J miles wide between Black rock and the 10-feet rock off West head, with 15 fathoms in mid-channel and 5 to 6 fathoms close to the rocks on either side ; and being open and free from any other hidden danger, it is easy of access, and affords sufficient room for a vessel of any size to work in or out. From 3^ miles within the entrance a clear channel one to 1\ miles wide, ^-ath 6 to 17 fathoms water, extends N.E. | E., between Philip island and Middle bank, to abreast of Sandy point, where the port divides into two arms, one trending North and the other East. Tortoise head, E. by N. J N. If miles from Sandy point, is the south end of a table-topped isle nearly one mile long, with a low point projecting from its west side ; reefs extend a quarter of a mile from this and the head, and a spit, with 13 feet water on it, projects S.W. three-quarters of a mile from the latter. French island, on the north side of the eastern part of port Western, is 11 miles long, east and west, and 7^ miles broad at its w^est end, between Tortoise head .and Scrub point, whence it narrows to 4 miles towards Spit point, the east extreme of the island. The southern and greater portion of the island is hilly ; but the north- western part and northern coast are low and marshy. From the south-west extreme of French island its southern coast trends E. by S. ^ S. 3| miles to its south point ; between this and Finger point, at N.E. | E. 2 miles from it, is a shoal bight, in the entrance of which is Elizabeth isle, 60 feet high. See charts, No. 1,171« and No. 1,707. Chap. VII.] PORT WESTERN. 505 The bights formed between Tortoise head and the south point of French island, and that from thence to Finger point, are filled with mud-flats, having one to 5 feet water on them at high water, with navigable creeks reaching in to the shore. From a 15-feet spit, marked by a buoy, at S.S.W. ^ W. IJ miles from Tortoise head, th 5-fathoms edge of the bank, which is mostly covered by these mud- flats, trends E. ^ N. 4 miles, and then sweeps round close outside Elizabeth isle to Finger point. The North arm of port Western is one mile wide between Sandy point and the spit IJ miles S.S.W. of Tortoise head ; and from its entrance trends N. ^ W. 10 miles to Watson inlet, the width increasing to 3 miles between Scrub point and the western shore. The channel of the North arm is on the west side, between the mud-flat which projects one to 4 cables from the shore, and the banks which extend a quarter of a mile to 2 miles from the west side of French island. This channel is three-quarters of a mile to one mile wide with 11 to 6 fathoms water, from the entrance to abreast Scrub point. The banks on the east side of the arm are separated from French island by a passage about one-third of a mile wide, with 3^ to 8 fathoms water in it, but it is encumbered with shoal patches. At N.W. by N. 2 miles from Sandy point is a shoal inlet ; and between Crib point, at N. by W. | W. 4 miles, and Long islet, N. by W. J W. 6 miles from Sandy point, the low western shore forms a bight, in the southern part of which is Sandstone isle, lying N.N.W. 1;^ miles from Crib point. This bight is filled by a flat, intersected by creeks, the largest of which, from half a mile north- eastward of Sandstone isle, winds north-west about 1 J miles to the town of Hastings ; this creek is marked by beacons, and has irregular depths of one to 5 fathoms. Off Stony point at 2J miles, and at 4^ miles northward of Sandy point, 4'.fathoms shoals project half a mile from the bank which borders the western shore. A jetty extends about 600 yards eastward from Stony point. The railway from Melbourne ends near here. Light. — A fixed white light, 33 feet above high water, is exhibited from a lamp post on the end of Stony ])oint jetty. It should be seen from a distance of 3 miles in clear weather. See chart, No. 1,707. 506 PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. [Chap. VII. There are several shoal patches north-west of Scrub point, that on the northern side of the fairway being Eagle rock, which is awash at low water and marked by a red beacon, consisting of a staff and ball, 12 feet high, N.W. by N. 1^ miles from the point. A beacon bearing N. by E. a little more than three-quarters of a mile from Scrub point is on Crawfish rock on the south side of Bagge harbour. The beacon is 15 feet high, with a 5-feet square top painted white. Between Scrub point and Quail island, 2 J miles northward of it, in which space is Bagge harbour, the North arm turns to the eastward into a sheet of water extending 9 miles east and west, and 4 miles across, between the north side of French island and the low mainland to the northward and eastward, the north shore being intersected by numerous creeks and inlets. This sheet of water is occupied by a mud-flat, with 6 to 8 feet on it at high water, ordinary springs, and numerous channels branching into it from the North arm. There are 13 to 4 fathoms for about 4 miles into the flat from Eagle rock ; but few of the smaller branches of this navigable water carry 6 feet water to within half a mile of the low woody shores. Alicll0rag"e. — There is anchorage at the entrance of the North arm in 7 fathoms water, at a quarter of a mile to the eastward of Sandy point. Hasting'S, a post town and telegraph station, 41 miles from Mel- bourne, with a population in 1891 of 388 ; it is an extensive fishing station, and supplies the Melbourne market to a considerable extent, with which place it is connected by rail. LigrhtS. — A fixed white light is shown from the end of Hastings jetty, and should be seen in clear weather from a distance of 3 miles. Towards the channel the light is red. A fixed white light is exhibited from Tooradin, about N.E. | N. 6 miles from Scrub point. The light should be seen from a distance of 3 miles in clear weather. The East arm of port Western, between the north side of Phillip island and the bank which extends from the south side of French island, is 1^ miles wide, with regular soundings in 7 to 9 fathoms. At one mile North of Observation point is the west point of a narrow Si'fs chart, No. 1,707. Chap. VII.] PORT WESTERN. 507 spit, with 12 to 6 feet water on it, projecting W.S.W. and West 2| miles from the shoal flat which iiearly fills the eastern part of port Western. Between this' spit and the north-east extreme of Phillip island there is a bight in the shoal flat, extending 2 miles east and west, and one mile across, where vessels may anchor in 6 to 8 fathoms sand and shells. From the west point of the spit the northern branch of the East arm sweeps round eastward and north- eastward past Elizabeth island and Finger point, and is two-thirds of a mile to half a mile wide, with 4J to 11 fathoms water between the banks which border the south coast of French island, and the shoal flat on its south side. Settlement point, E. ^ N. 1^ miles from Finger point, is a rocky projection of the mainland, between which and the south-east extreme of French island, at W.N.W. 1^ miles from it, are Pelican islet and Schnapper shoal, the latter marked by a white beacon, with a square top, 16 feet high. The islet lies W. by N, half a mile from Settlement point, with which it is connected by a reef ; and Schnapper shoal, which lies between Pelican islet and French island, divides the East arm into two narrow channels with only 3 J to 4 fathoms water. There is a white beacon, a staff and ball, 16 feet high, about 100 yards N.N.W. of Settlement point, and a black beacon, a staff and ball, bearing W.N.W. 240 yards from the white beacon. From Settlement point the coast trends E. | N. 3 miles to Queens- ferry, between which and Passage point, at one mile N.E. of Spit point, is a bight 2 miles deep, forming between it and the island a sheet of water 2^ to 3^ miles wide, the south eastern and greater portion being filled by mud-flats, having 6 to 9 feet on them at high- water springs. The East arm branches into this space and round Spit point, much as the North arm does into the mud-flat north of the island. Lights. — A fixed red light is exhibited from the jetty end at Queensferry, and Si fixed white light from the jetty end at Grantville. DIRECTIONS. — The tidal streams always raise a sufficient ripple to break on the banks which form the north-west side of the main channel, giving timely notice of the shoal water on that side ; See chart, No. 1,707. 508 PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. [Chap. VII. but if this cannot be trusted steer for Tortoise head, bearing N.E. I E. (N. 53° E.), and well open of the north-west point of Phillip island, to avoid McHaflRe reef .which projects from it. To clear Middle bank, see page 503. The red buoy off McHaflfie reef, and the red buoy on the edge of the shoal near Red rock must be left on the starboard side entering. The north coast of the island, although bold, should not be ap- proached within half a mile, as the tidal streams set along it at a great rate, and may, in light winds, sweep a vessel too near the shore. Having arrived abreast of Sandy point, proceed northward or eastward. Anchorag'e. — There is good anchorage in 8 fathoms, at half a mile off Observation point. PHILLIP ISLAND is 12 miles long, and 4| miles across, at its western and broadest part ; the eastern end oi the island being a peninsula, connected with the western part by an isthmus half a mile broad, at 8| miles eastward of Grant point. Quoin hill, N.E. by E. \ E. 3J miles from Grant point, is 218 feet high. South, coast. — From Grant point the irregular and rocky south coast of the island curves East 5 miles to a point, close off which is the high needle-shaped Pyramid rock. Between Pyramid rock and cape Wollamai, E. by S. 7 miles from it, the coast forms a bay 2 miles deep, affording anchorage at one mile north-eastward of Pyramid rock, sheltered from north-west and northerly winds. The northern shore of the bay consists of a range of low sand-hills covered with scrub, and is bordered by reefs none of which appear to extend beyond one-third of a mile off shore. CAPE WOLLAMAI, the south-east extreme of Phillip island, is a remarkable helmet-shaped granite headland, of a reddish colour, rising abruptly from the sea to the height of 332 feet, whence it slopes towards the N.W., forming a peninsula nearly 1\ miles long, N.W. by N. and S.E. by S. and three-quarters of a mile broad. This head is the more conspicuous from its being the highest land on Phillip island, all the remaining portion of it being low hills, clothed in an almost impervious scrub. The cape is fringed with See chart, No. 1,707. Chap, VII.] PHILLIP ISLAND. — CAPE WOLLAMAL 509 dry and covered rocks ; but none extend beyond a quarter of a mile from the shore. Sandy peak, 161 feet in height, is the highest and most southerly of the sand-hills on the east end of Phillip island. The peak is steep, well defined, and is a good mark for the anchorage. Red point, North one mile from the south-east point of cape Wollamai, is a mass of red granite boulders, 50 feet high, and is marked by a black beacon with square top, 15 feet high, standing 40 feet from the water's edge. Woody point. — Between Red point and Woody point, at N. | W. 2 miles from it, the east end of Phillip island forms a bay nearly 1^^ miles deep, with rocky points and sandy beaches, bordered by a bank, of which the 3 fathoms edge projects one cable to half a mile from the shore, the edge being marked by three black beacons, one at N.W. ^ W. half a mile from Red point, one at 3 cables S. by W. ^ W. from Woody point, and the other on the easternmost Middle rock which covers at half tide, at nearly one cable E. ^ N, from the point. The North-east coast of Phillip island, between Woody point and the bluff close to the south-eastward of Observation point, forms a bay 2 miles deep, divided by a broad projection, into two bights, that to the southward being Swan corner. Between one and 2 miles N.W. by W. of Woody point, is Churchill isle. This bay is filled by a mud-flat, partly dry at low water, the outer edge of which, from Woody point, trends N.N.E. i E. IJ miles to a spit, marked by a black buoy, and from thence N.W. by W. 4^ miles to Observation point. This mud-flat is intersected by several creeks, the largest of which, from its entrance, at three-quarters of a mile S.E. by E. of Observation point, trends S.E. by S. and S.S.W. 3 miles, carrying 3 to 6 and 2 fathoms to within half a mile from the shore of Swan corner. The entrances to this creek and that to the westward of it, leading past Rhyl, a settlement with a population of 47 persons, are marked by red beacons. There is a jetty at Rhyl. The western side of the channel extending to the N.N.E. from Woody point is further marked by a black buoy E.N.E. a quarter of a mile from the point, and by 3 black pile beacons with crosses. Sfe chart, N"o. 1.707. 510 PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. [Chap. VII. The eastern side of the channel is marked by a beacon, a mast and ball 18 feet high, and by 3 red pile beacons with crosses. The Eastern entrance into port Western is available at high water for vessels of 12 feet draught. The outer heads of the entrance are Red point, already described, and Griffith point. Griffith, point, N.N.E. ^ E. nearly one mile from Red point, is a bold sandstone bluff 70 feet high, bare of trees for some distance inland, and fringed by a reef. From Griffith point the coast trends N.W. by N. 1^ miles to Davis point, Avhich is low, sandy, and wooded to the water's edge, with a pillar beacon on it, surmounted by a white ball. Between this and Woody point, a quarter of a mile to the northward of it, are the Narrows. An extensive bank, with dry patches on it, and only 4 feet water over most parts of it, projects about one mile from the coast between Griffith and Davis points ; its outer edge being marked by a red beacon at one mile N.W. of Red point, and a red buoy at half a mile North of the beacon. From this buoy the edge of the bank trends north-eastward to Davis point. In bad weather, especially during the ebb, the sea breaks over the edge of the bank. Ligrht. — A fixed green light is exhibited from Davis point jetty, which is visible for 2 miles. Water. — Excellent water can be obtained at all times, at the fisherman's hut, just within Red point. The East entrance channel, which lies between the bank just described and that which borders the western shore, is one to 3 cables wide, with 5 to 3 fathorns for one -third of a mile above Red point. From 2 cables below the first black beacon to the Narrows, the channel varies from 50 or 60 yards near the beacon to 250 yards in width, with 3J to 5 fathoms, and 6 fathoms in the Narrows. From the Narrows into port, the passage through the banks, which has only 5 to 12 feet water, leads from the east side of the beacon ofl' Woody point, to the east side of the buoy off the point, then curving to the westward it takes a N.N.E. J E. (N. 25° E.) course between the black and red beacons. Sec chart. No. 1.707 : plan of the Eastern entrance, scale m = 3 inches. Chap. VII.] PORT WESTERN, EASTERN ENTRANCE. 511 DIRECTIONS. — After rounding cape Wollamai, haul in for Red point, passing it within a cable, until it bears S.W. ; if desired, a vessel may anchor in 3^ fathoms between it and the first black beacon. From this outer anchorage pass midway between the beacon and the eastern bank, where the channel is only 50 or 60 yards wide, and then steer N.W. half a mile, keeping the red beacon on the starboard bow ; give it a berth of half a cable ; and if not intending to anchor in the channel, follow its course to the northward and north-eastward, leaving the red buoy on the starboard, and the black beacons on the port hand. From the Narrows, after passing east of the buoy off Woody point and between the first black and red beacons north of it, steer N.N.E. J E. (N. 25° E.), leaving the black beacons and buoy on the port, and the red beacons on the starboard hand, and having cleared the channel, proceed according to destination. Caution. — If drawing 12 feet water, bound into port Western by the East entrance, wait in the inner anchorage (to the north- ward of the first red beacon) till nearly slack water, as the stream runs at a great rate through the Narrows. From Port Western to sea. — From the east side of the buoy at N.N.E. ^ E. of Woody point, follows the trend of the channel towards and through the Narrows, leaving the red beacons on the port, and the black beacons and buoys on the starboard hand, leave the red buoy and red beacon on the west edge of the sand, on the port hand, and then steer through the channel about S.E. by E. (S. 56° E.) out to sea, leaving the southern black beacons on the starboard side. The chart and lead are the best guides for this entrance. Anchorage. — From a depth of 8 fathoms north-eastward of cape Wollamai the soundings decrease gradually towards the East entrance, close within which is the outer anchorage, in 3 to 4 fathoms, sand, between Red point and the black beacon to the north-westward. Vessels drawing 18 feet, seeking shelter, and unable to fetch the West entrance, need not lose ground by running back eastward, round Wilson promontory, but may find anchorage within the entrance, at a quarter of a mile inside Red point, sheltered from all winds except south-east gales. Vessels of 12 feet draught may bring up in the inner anchorage, between the black beacon and the Narrows, in 15 to 20 feet water, sand and mud. The most convenient anchorage Si-e chart. No. 1,707, with plan. 512 PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. [Chap. VII. is between the red buoy and Davis point, where the channel, being widest, affords more room for getting under way. As the streams run through the channel at a great rate, it is advisable for vessels at anchor to lay out a kedge to keep them from fouling their anchors. East shore of Port Western.— From Davis point the shore forms a bay extending N.N.E. 3| miles to Reef islet, which is surrounded with rocks that connect it with the Ioav north-east point of the bay. This bay is nearly 2 miles deep ; but it is shallow throughout, there being only 6 to 12 feet water across its entrance from point to point. On a rock, about 300 yards to the north-west of Reef islet, is a red beacon, consisting of a mast and ball, 16 feet high. Magrgrie shoal. — The bank which mostly fills the bay, projects to a 4-f eet spit, close off which is Maggie shoal, with a red buoy on it, lying N.E. by N. 2 miles from Davis point. Bass river is a small stream winding through the low marshy land into the bay at E. | N. 2 miles from Maggie shoal. Between Reef islet and Settlement point, at North 3| miles from it, the eastern shore of port Western is divided into two small bays of nearly equal extent by Cobb bluff, from which a reef projects about a quarter of a mile. Loelia shoal, W. by S. ^ S. IJ miles from Reef islet, is a small patch with 1^ feet water on it. It is marked by a black and white chequered buoy. There is another small patch with 4 feet water on it, a quarter of a mile north-eastward of Loelia shoal. Soundings. — ^With the exception of the northern branch of the East arm and the bight between Observation point and the spit northward of it, the whole of the eastern part of port Western is filled by a flat, with rarely more than 3 fathoms water over any part of it. Aspect. — The mainland about the eastern end of port Western is moderately elevated and thinly wooded with short treas ; the soil is rich, especially near the banks of Bass river, and is clothed with See chart, No. 1,707. Chap. VII.] PORT WESTERT^, TIDES.— CAPE PATTERSON. 513 coarse grass to the water's edge. From the hilly promontory forming the east side of the East entrance, a range of wooded hills stretches away in an East and N.E. direction ; River hill, one of the summits, is 816 feet high, bearing N.E. | E., distant 10 miles from cape Wollamai. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, at Spit point, French island, at 1 h. m. ; springs rise 10 feet, and neaps 8 feet, the latter ranging 6^ feet ; at Bourchier channel, north of French island, at I h. 13 m. ; springs rise JO j feet, and neaps 8| feet, the latter ranging 7^ feet : at Mussel rock, north side of Philip island, at Oh. 12 m. ; springs rise 8 J feet, and neaps GJ feet. At Woody point at h. 50 m. ; springs rise about 8 feet, and neaps 5 feet. Tidal stream. — The stream in the main channel, between Philip island and Middle bank, runs 3 knots, and in the East arm one to 2 knots. The streams run at a great rate in the eastern channel. THE COAST from Griffith point, which is N. by E. ^ E.,2 miles from cape Wollamai, forms a slight curve trending E. J S. 4^ miles to Black head, and thence south-easterly 3 miles to Powlett river, continuing on in the same direction for a further distance of 5 miles to Coal point. The mines there are not being worked. Goal point has numerous sunken rocks off it at the distance of a mile southward of the point ; one rock uncovers at low water spring tides. The heavy break shows the point to be dangerous of approach. From Coal point the land takes a S.E. by E. ^ E. direction to cape Patterson, from which it is distant 2J miles. The whole coast south-east of Black head is little more than a succession of sandy hillocks, from 100 to 140 feet high, covered in most places with dwarfed ti trees, but occasionally bare. CAPE PATTERSON is an ill- defined point, rounded and low ; and the least conspicuous point along the whole coast ; the highest land within a mile of the point is 127 feet above the sea, and this elevation scarcely increases until it joins a range of hills over i)00 feet high to the east and north-east of River hill, at a distance of II miles from the cape. See charts, No. 1,707 and No. 1,695*. SO 11712 2 K 514 PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. [Chap. VII. There is nothing to point out cape Patterson. A conspicuous rock, 59 feet high, about 3 miles to the eastward of the cape, known as the Eagle's Nest, lying half a cable off the coast at its turn towards Anderson inlet, serves to distinguish it. East and west of this rock the coast has a cliffy appearance. Reef. — A reef, dry at low water, extends 3 cables in a south-east direction from cape Patterson, and there are 3 fathoms 4 cables- S. bv E of the cape. The COAST from cape Patterson trends 2 miles in an E. by N, direction, and thence N.E. 4 miles to the mouth of Anderson inlet. Anderson inlet, which by its two streams, Tarwin river and Screw creek, drains about 300 square miles of country, is not navigable except for flat-bottomed boats or barges, but there i& depth of water in patches sufficient to allow the vessels which enter to anchor. The bight formed about the mouth of Anderson inlet is known a& Venus bay, but it does not afford good anchorage. Petril rock, only 2 feet above high water, lies nearly half a mile from the shore, about midway between Eagle's Nest and the moutk of Anderson inlet. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, in Yenus bay, at 11 h. 56 m. ; springs rise about 7 feet. The COAST. — From Smythe point, the east entrance point of Anderson inlet, the coast trends south-eastward 13 miles with a slight curve to Watercress creek ; all this coast is a succession of sand-hills 110 to 160 feet in height, which for the last 5 miles are comparatively destitute of verdure. Watercress creek (so hamed from the abundance of that plant) i& at the foot of the table land of cape Liptrap. On the coast, three- quarters of a mile north-west of the mouth of Watercress creek, is a small rock of sandstone 15 feet above high water, and from this to a distance of 4 cables seaward are several sunken rocks. The coast line here is composed of low sandstone cliffs. For one mile S. by E. ^ E. from Watercress creek is a very rugged Sf'c chart, No. 1.695 J. Chap. VII.] ANDERSON INLET.— CAPE LIPTRAP. 515 coast of overhanging sandstone, with jagged and pointed rocks strewn along it. One mile South of Watercress creek and off this rugged coast, at the distance of 2 cables, lies Arch rock, 82 feet high, having a natural arch on its eastern side. There is a rock awash at half-tide, lying a cable to the W.S.W. of it. The same character of coast continues for a mile beyond Arch rock in a S.E. by S. direction, having innumerable pinnacle rocks of various heights strewn along the whole distance, with other outlying sunken and half -tide rocks, in some places nearly half a mile from the shore. Off this coast craw-fish abound. Hence, the land trends in a S.S.E. direction 3 miles to a conspicuous islet, 63 feet high, off the western part of cape Liptrap. Half this distance being a straight piece of sandy coast, with the table land of cape Liptrap getting nearer as the coast runs southward. There are outlying sunken rocks about 3 cables off this coast. From the islet the coast forms three small bays to the cape. CAPE LIPTRAP, which is nearly perpendicular, and 297 feet high, forms the south-west extremity of a table-topped promontory 550 feet high, joining the base of the Hoddle range of hills, which are 968 feet above the sea ; at 16 miles N.E. by N. from the cape, these again join the Fatigue mountain mnge, the highest part of which is above 2,000 feet high. Several outlying rocks, varying in height from 5 to 30 feet, partially fringe the coast south and east of cape Liptrap, but none extend more than 2 cables from the shore. The COAST. — From cape Liptrap the land forms a bight to Grinder point, which is 2 miles N.E. by E. ^ E. from the cape. This bight is fringed with low water and sunken rocks, which in some places extend 3 cables from the shore, and farther out even than this in bad weather the sea breaks violentl3^ From Grinder point the land takes a north-easterly direction for a further distance of 2J miles to Bell point, and a similar description of coast to the last is found, with the exception that the land is somewhat lower, and a number of rocks from 10 to 30 feet high are found at short distances off it. Bell point may be known by a large broad-topped rock about 40 feet high, and a cable from the shore. From this point the land Si'e chart, No. l,69r>&. SO 11712 2 K 2 51G PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. [Chap. VII. takes an abrupt turn into Waratah bay, trending about N.N.W. for 2 miles. At 3 cables from Bell point is a small islet 60 feet high, and about the distance of one mile are the Bird rocks, three in number, and from 40 to 60 feet high, the outer rock being 2 cables from the shore. These rocks are guides to mariners using the bay, enabling them to ascertain their position. WARATAH BAY affords good anchorage. In the depth of the bay, at 4 miles from Bell point, the coast falls to a height of only 100 feet, when the ordinary feature of sand-hills, generally covered with ti tree, is again met with. Ttight. — A harbour light is exhibited from a lamp-post on the shore in Waratah bay, bearing W.8.W. from Bird rocks, distant 2 cables. The light is a fixed red light, elevated 120 feet above the sea, and should be visible in clear weather from a distance of about 3 miles. Anchor age. — In Waratah bay, there is anchorage in 6 fathoms water, with the light bearing S.W. distant 7 cables. Or in good holding ground more than a mile from the shore during south-westerly gales, and with plenty of room for working out in the event of the wind chopping round to the eastward. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in Waratah bay at noon, springs rise 8 feet. Shallow inlet. — From Waratah bay the coast trends E.S.E. until within 2 miles of the entrance to Shallow inlet, when it becomes low, bare, and sandy, scarcely above high water. ' The east entrance point of this shallow inlet or lagoon is much higher, but is likewise of bare sand. It was not founl possible to sound the entrance of the inlet on account of the heavy break ; but the depth varies with the prevailing winds and freshets, being occasionally dry at low water, and at other times having sufficient water for a large boat to enter. From the mouth of this inlet the land trends with a slight curve in a S.E. | S. direction for nearly 6 miles to Black rock, which is about 30 feet high, and a cable from the coast. Sec charts. Nos. LGDrv/ and b. Chap. VII.] WARATAH BAY. — NORMAN ISLAND. 517 From a position 4 miles N.W. of Shallow inlet to about a mile from Black rock, shoal water with a sandy bottom extends about half a mile from the shore, and off the inlet this shoal water runs out nearly a mile. From about 1^ miles northward to 2^ miles southward of Black rock, the sandy bottom is interspersed with rocks, some of which uncover at low water. Shellback island.— About IJ miles S.W. of Black rock lies Shellback island, 357 feet high ; it is the northernmost of the islands on the west coast of Wilson promontory. Tongrue point, 167 feet high, lies S. i E. 2^ miles from Black rock, the coast between forming a deep bight, in the depth of which are a few low red cliffs, but they are not conspicuous. Tongue point has a remarkable conical white rock, 30 feet high, close off it to seaward. Abreast of the point at the distance of a mile, the coast is high, and rises at a distance of 4 miles to parts of the promontory range, which are here about 2,000 feet above the sea. Mount Vereker, the north-west mountain of the promontory, bearing N.E. by E. 6 miles from Tongue point, is 2,092 feet high, and has a spur 1,651 feet high, running N.W. about 2 miles from it ; this spur gradually falls in a westerly direction, and forms the north-west termination of the high land of the promontory. From Tongue point the coast trends S.E. ^ E., forming a bight to .Leonard point, southward of which and on the same bearing are Pillar and Norman points, forming the south sides of Leonard and Norman bays. Norman Island lies a little more than a mile southward of Tongue point, and may be known by its two peaks, the higher and northern of which is 316 feet high. Anchorag:e.^-At one andi_2 cables off this island on its eastern side are 9 and 11 fathoms of water, where, in the course of the survey, it was often found convenient to drop the anchor during a prevalence of south-westerly winds. Coasting steam vessels of little power bound to the westward, having rounded the promontory and being met by a south-westerly gale, might find it convenient to anchor here in preference to running back again and anchoring in Waterloo bay, to the eastward of the promontory. See chart, No. 1,703, Wilson promontory, witli Corner inlet and poi<. Albert, scale m = 1-0 inch. 518 PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. [Chap. VII. OBERON BAY, lying southward of Norman point, is the largest of the three bays on this coast, and affords the best anchorage. The bay is a mile deep, IJ miles across, and has a broad sandy beach upon which the sea breaks heavily. Landing can in general only be effected in the south-eastern corner. From the prevalence of south- westerly winds none of these bays can be recommended as anchorages for other than steam vessels. Good shelter has been found in this bay with Oberon point bearing S.W. about 3 cables during a heavy gale from the eastward. Caution. — From experience in this locality easterly gales appear to die away at East or N.E., but a south-westerly gale may spring up with scarcely any notice of its approach, when sailing vessels would find themselves on a lee shore with a swell setting them dead to leeward. The COAST from Oberon point, trends for a mile in a S. by E. direction, and then gradually takes a more easterly turn to a moderatelj^ deep bight, whence it again runs S. by E. to South-west point. All this coast is bold and cliffy, the cliflFs in some places being several hundred feet in height, and rising again at the back towards the mountain land of the promontory. Off South-west point, at the distance of about a mile S.W. | S., is Anser island, the largest island of the group of the same name. GLENNIE GROUP consists of four islands, which lie about 4 miles W. J S. to S.W. I W. from Oberon point, the nearest land of Wilson promontory. Glennie island, the largest, is 455 feet high, nearly 2 miles long N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., saddle-shaped, and strewn over with blocks of granite (of which it is composed), and which give it a castellated appearance. A rock 3 feet high, over which the sea generally breaks heavily, lies about 2 cables North of its north end, and another somewhat larger, 15 feet high, lies about a cable off its north-east end. Three smaller islands lie off the south point of Glennie island ; the southernmost, 367 feet high, is named Citadel island, from its resemblance to an ancient fortress. ANSER GROUP of three islands, apparently takes its name from the numerous geese frequenting them. Anser island is the See chart, No. 1,703. Chap. VII.] OBERON BAY. — GLENNIE AND ANSER ISLANDS. 519 highest, and rises to a nipple point, 498 feet above the level of the sea ; it is cliffy in all directions, but least so to the northward, where landing may often be effected. Cleft island, the most remarkable of this group, lies nearly IJ miles S.W. from Anser island. It is 371 feet high, of a round form, and may be known from having a large slice out of its north-west side, which gives it a cavern-like appearance ; it is also perpendicular, and white on all sides. Two small islets, between 40 and 50 feet high, lie between it and the next or middle island of this group, equally dividing the distance between them. A third islet not quite so high lies a cable off the north-west point of the middle island, which is 312 feet high. Carpentaria rock. — This rock has a depth of 6 feet over it, and lies with the summit of Cleft island bearing S. | E. distant 8 cables. There is deep water between the Anser and Glennie groups and also between them and the mainland. The whole of the coast adjacent to the islands is bold, and all dangers, except the Carpentaria rock, are visible. Seals inhabit these rocks and islands. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at the Glennie islands, at llh. 44m. ; springs rise about 9 feet. The COAST.— From South-west point the land runs E. by S. ^ S. 1^ miles to a projecting low and stony point, named South point, the southernmost point of Australia, off which, at a distance of one cable W.S.W., is a rock 15 feet high, and in the same direction at a further distance of 2 cables is Wattle island, 270 feet high, which from being so close to the shore appears connected, but between the isiana and the 15-feet rock just spoken of is a deep channel through which a strong tidal stream constantly sets. A rock awash lies nearly a cable S.W. of the west point of Wattle island, but with this exception the coast is bold. Half a mile from South-west point a freshwater creek flows into the sea, and at a short distance inland, eastward of this, is a remark- able stone near the summit of the coast range, which closely resembles a tower. - See chart, No. 1,703. 520 POPtT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. [Chap. VII. From South point the coast trends in a general E. by N. J N. direction 2J miles to South-east point, where is the promontory lighthouse; but in this distance there are two deep bights, the westernmost running more than half a mile into the land, and forming at its termination a natural basin where there is a running stream. From South-west point to South-east point the land rises suddenly from the water's edge to nearly 1,000 feet. From South-east point the land trends N. | E. 2J miles to Waterloo point, the south-west point of Waterloo bay. At one mile in that direction is a point with a small islet off it, but almost connected with the shore by large boulders ; the islet does not extend beyond the line of the coast, and immediately northward of it is an indentation half a mile deep. Sounding's. — South of cape Liptrap the depths are 28 and 30 fathoms at 4 miles, and 38 and 46 at 14 miles distance. For 13 miles southward of Citadel island the depths are from 37 to 43 fathoms. WILSON PROMONTORY is a lofty peninsula, 22 miles long, north and south, and 8 miles broad at the centre. It is connected with the mainland to the north-westward, by a low sandy neck 10 miles long and 3 to 5 miles broad, which separates Waratah bay from Corner basin. This promontory rises to rugged mountains, some of which are above 2,000 feet in height, thickly wooded on their upper and less exposed parts ; but towards the coast they are nearly destitute of vegetation, and descend abruptly to the sea. The soil is shallow and generally barren ; though the brushwood, dwarf gum trees, and some smaller vegetation, which mostly cover the granite rocks, give the country a deceitful appearance to a distant observer. LIGHT. — The lighthouse which stands on South-east point, Wilson promontory, is a white circular stone tower, 70 feet high, exhibiting at 342 feet above the sea a fixed white light which may be seen from a distance of 24 miles in clear weather. This light is visible between the bearings of N. 62° E. and S. 22° W., and a ray is also visible between the islands of Anser group, on a N. 67° E. bearing. „ Signal station. — There is a signal station al: Wilson promontory Sec chart, No. 1,703. Chap. VII.] WILSON PROMONTOPtY.— nODONDO. 521 lighthouse and communication can be made by the commercial code of signals. It is connected by telegraph. Meteorological observations.— In 1892, at Wilson promontory, 300 feet above the sea, the maximum temperature in the shade was 92^ Fahr., the mean 5G*G°; rain fell on 129 days, the amount being 39*95 inches. Landing". — Except when the wind is directly from the southward and fresh, a landing may be effected on one side of South-east point, with or without the aid of a crane, which is placed specialh" for landing stores. The first distinguishing pendant denotes that there is landing on the east side, the second distinguishing pendant that there is landing on the west side, and number 5 red flag that there is no landing. Forty-foot rocks lie S. ^ E. 4J miles from the lighthouse, and consist of three separate and distinct islets of granite, of which the largest and westernmost is 165 feet long, with a breadth of 50 feet at the broadest part near its centre ; this islet is 20 feet high, and on its south extremity there is a granite boulder, 20 feet in height, and 40 feet above high- water mark, which, when the sea is breaking over these rocks, is probably the only part of them visible. These rocks are steep-to in all directions. RODONDO ISLAND, S. | W. 6 miles from Wilson promontory lighthouse, is a conspicuous conical mass of granite, three-quarters of a mile across, rising to a distinct peak 1,150 feet above the sea, and visible in clear weather from a distance of 30 miles. It has high cliffs on all sides, the surface above being covered with a dense dwarf scrub, and is steep-to in all directions. The Forty-foot rocks lie N.N.E. I E. 2 miles from Rodondo, and between there is a clear channel with a depth of 36 to 39 fathoms. Moncoeur islands. — East and West Moncoeur islands, 1^ miles apart, 331 and 318 feet high, lie nearly in line E. by N. from Rodondo island, at 5 miles and 6^ miles respectively from it ; and S.E. J S. 7 miles, and S.E. ^ E. 7| miles from Wilson promontory lighthouse. The West island is nearly half a mile long north and south, and about 200 yards wide ; with a small islet at half a cable southward of it. See chart, No. 1.703. 522 PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. " [Chap. VII. The East island is one-third of a mile long N. by W. and S. by E., and rather more than 200 yards wide. They are bold-to. . TIDAL STREAMS.— Off Wilson promontory the tidal streams as a general rule set E.N.E. and W.S.W., the west-going stream running during the rising tide. The streams turn at nearly high and low water on the shore, but the direction of the streams is much influenced by the winds. Near the promontory, after an easterly gale, Ihe ebb or east-going stream which has been checked during the gale continues to run to the eastward when the flood should have made ; and at the strength of the flood the stream sets to the north- ward, except inshore, where the tidal streams follow their general law ; a south-westerly gale has an opposite effect. The rate of the streams off the promontory, where they are strongest, does not exceed 2^ knots. Along shore, from the promontory to cape Wollamai, and to a distance in the offlng of 7 or 8 miles, the streams are scarcely felt, but run with their greatest strength off the several points. Current. — During and after heavy easterly and westerly weather a current sets in the direction of the wind which is blowing, or has just ceased to blow. Soundings. — Off Wilson promontory the soundings afford little guide, but in the bight between Tongue point and cape Liptrap, or off cape Liptrap, a depth of 30 fathoms ensures a vessel's being 3 miles off shore. This depth likewise ensures this distance from the land all along the coast to near cape Wollamai. South and S.W. of cape Patterson the soundings shoal much more gradually than on any other part of this coast, and there are 30 fathoms or less 6 miles off shore. From thence westward the 30-fathom line again nears the coast until off cape Wollamai where it is distant only 1^ miles. WATERLOO BAY, extending from Waterloo point N.E. 2J miles to cape Wellington, is 1^ miles deep, with 14 fathoms, sand, in the centre, whence the depth of water decreases gradually to 6 fathoms at 2 cables from the shore, but increases towards the outer points. Waterloo bay, being so immediately under the high land of Wilson promontory, and exposed to the swell from both sides of Bass strait, is not recommended as an anchorage for sailing vessels. See chart, No. 1,703. Chap. VII.] TIDAL STREAMS.— WATERLOO BAY. 523 The western shore of Waterloo bay forms the eastern end of a low valley 3 miles long, which stretches across the promontory to Oberon bay. The valley makes a conspicuous break in the high land and divides the Boulder range from the Wilson range. Anchorage. — The best anchorage is about 4 cables from the south- west shore in 9 to 12 fathoms water. Steam vessels bound westward met by a south-westerly gale may anchor close in to the land in a small cove under Waterloo point. The holding ground is good. CAPE WELLINGTON, a hilly headland, 255 feet above the sea, rising to 442 feet half a mile inland, and forming the north-east point of Waterloo bay, projects 1^ miles S.E. from the line of the coast ; Kersop peak, its most elevated summit, rises to a height of 729 feet, a mile N.W. of the cape. The bold eastern face of cape Wellington extends N. by E. half a mile from its south extreme, thence the land trends N.N.W. J W. one mile to Brown head, with a cove midway extending a quarter of a mile to the south-west. Mount Wilson, on the north side of the valley and 3^ miles West of cape Wellington, rises abruptly from the southward until its wooded summit reaches the height of 2,320 feet. On the south side of the valley opposite mount Wilson is a mountainous range known as Boulder range, which at its highest part rises to an elevation of 1,725 feet. The whole mountainous range on Wilson promontory is of granite, with immense boulders generally visible, but more particularly on the part known as Boulder range. Mount La Trobe, which reaches an elevation of 2,434 feet, lies N.N.W. I W. 3^ miles from mount Wilson ; nearly midway between them is mount Ramsay 2,313 feet high. REFUGE COVE, half a mile W.N.W. from Brown head, and the only anchorage on this side of Wilson promontory sheltered from the eastward (unless Corner basin and Bentley harbour are considered exceptions), is the central of three small deep-water bights between Brown head and Horn point, which latter lies a mile N. by W. from the head. Hobbs head, half a mile southward of Horn point, forms the north side of the entrance to Refuge cove, which is only 1^ cables wide. Scr chart, No. 1,703. b24: . PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. [Chap. YII. The cove may be easily recognised from being distant midway between Kersop peak and Horn point, and from its having the first sandy beach which opens north of cape Wellington. It is about one-third of a mile in extent with 8 fathoms in the entrance, from which the depth gradually decreases to 3 and 4 fathoms, in most places close to, but near the sandy beaches at half a cable from the shore. The anchorage in the cove is in the south part. Refuge cove is not much used owing to the difficulty of getting out, the high hills around almost completely screening it from any winds off the land. The cove between Brown head and Refuge cove trends one-third of a mile to the southward with 9 to 4 fathoms ; that between Hobbs head and Horn point has the same depth of water, but is open to the eastward. Tides and tidal streams. — It is high water, full and change, in Refuge cove, at Oh. 5m. ; springs rise, 8 feet. Off cape Wellington the tidal flood stream divides and runs in opposite directions, one portion of the stream which comes from the north-eastward turning and running along the shore to the north- Avard, the outer portion of the same stream continuing its course round the promontory to the westward. The ebb streams meet and . act in an opposite manner. SEALERS COVE. — From Horn point, a cable off which N.W. by N. there is a 9-feet rock, the coast trends W. by N. ^ N. for three-quarters of a mile, and then West for another thr-ee-quarters of a mile to the southern point of Sealers cove, which is nearly three- quarters of a mile wide N.N.W. and S.S.E. at its entrance, and about one mile in extent within. There are depths of 4 and 5 fathoms at the entrance, within which the water shoals gradually, the 3-fathoms line being only IJ cables inside. A heavy swell often rolls into Sealers cove. Water. — Fresh water may be obtained either in Refuge or Sealers cove, but in the latter it might be necessary to go some distance up the creek in the south-east corner. At Refuge cove water may be obtained with greater facility, principally in the south-west corner of the northern sandy beach. See chart, No. 1,703 ; and plan of Refuse cove on No. 1,^95A, scale vi = 2'5 inches. Chap. VII.] REFUGE COVE.— RABBIT ISLAND. 525 Five-mile Beach. — From the north side of Sealers cove the coast trends northerly and north-westerly IJ miles to the south end of Five-mile beach, and thence extends with a slight curve N. by E. J E. 4 J miles, being intersected at each end by a stream of fresh water. The beach may be approached to two-thirds of a mile in 5 and 6J fathoms. At the back of this beach is flat swampy ground, which extends for 1^ and 2J miles until met by the slopes of mount Vereker. At the north end of Five-mile beach the higher part of the promontory again approaches the coast, forming a small point from, which in a north-easterly direction about half a mile is another point abreast of Rabbit island. Off this point in a S.S.E. direction is a rock which, from its resemblance to the island of the same name, has been named Rabbit rock ; this rock is 50 feet high, and has a small detached rock close-to on its west side. RABBIT ISLAND, so named from the number of rabbits upon it, lies East three-quarter^ of a mile from the east point of Wilson promontory. It is nearly half a mile long north-east and south-west, and being 194 feet high, is an excellent mark when proceeding northward to Corner inlet. Anchorag'e. — There is good anchorage in all but south-easterly or easterly gales in 4J and 5 fathoms one mile N.E. of Rabbit island. Traders bound westward anchor here during south-westerly gales. Small craft bound westward during westerly gales often anchor near Rabbit island, but in a seaworthy vessel such a course should not be adopted, unless the gale is of unusual violence. Wood and water may be obtained at this anchorage ; the water will be found in the little sandy valley on Rabbit island by sinking a cask, and the wood may be obtained on the adjacent mainland, or both may be obtained on the mainland. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, at Rabbit island at Oh. 14m. ; springs rise 8 feet. The COAST. — From the point abreast Rabbit island the coast trends N. by W. one mile to a point behind which are two good fresh-water streams. At a further distance of half a mile in the Sec chart, Xo. l,7o3. 526 PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. [Chap. VII. Bame direction is another small point, whence the land trends in a westerly direction for half a mile, and then N. ^ W. 2 miles to a point at the south east base of mount Hunter, and thence again in the same direction to a smaller point East of the same mount, whence the coast, which then becomes low and sandy, still trends N. ^ W. about 2 miles to Entrance point, at the entrance to Corner basin. Between the several points here spoken of are sandy beaches. Abreast of Rabbit island and to the northward of Five-mile beach the hill over the coast rises to an elevation of 778 feet ; and N.N.W. ^ W. 1^ miles from this, and nearly a mile from the coast, is mount Roundback, 1,050 feet high. At 3^ miles N. by W. of mount Roundback and one mile from the coast is mount Hunter, 1,175 feet high, which is conspicuous being of a pyramidal shape and the northern high hill of the promontory. Between mounts Roundback and Hunter the range falls consider- ably, but about midway is a wedge-shaped hill 716 feet high. At 2^ miles N. by W. J W. of mount Hanter, and on the northernmost point of the promontory, is mount Singapore, 480 feet high ; this hill forms a usful leading mark into Bentley harbour. One mile eastward of mount Singapore is Entrance point. SEAL or DIRECTION ISLANDS.— About 7 miles E. i N. of Rabbit island is Seal island, the largest of the Seal islands. The group consists of four small islands and three rocks, which latter extend in a north-westerly direction from Seal island. The largest of the rocks. White rock, is 33 feet high, and distant from Seal island IJ miles. One other rock is adjacent to Seal island, and nearly midway between is a rock 8 feet above high water, with a rock awash ofip it to the northward. Seal island is 154 feet high, about a mile round, and covered with tufts of coarse grass, among which are the burrows of penguins and mutton-birds. Notch island, the second largest, is 123 feet high, and lies one mile S.E. from Seal island ; it has two hills upon it, and the valley between giving it a notched appearance caused it to be named Notch island. Nearly one mile S.S.E. from Notch island is Rag island, 94 feet high ; and E. by S. 1^ miles is Cliffy island, 144 feet high. See chart, 1^0. 1,703. Chap. VII.] SEAL OR DIRECTION ISLANDS.— CORNER INLET. 527 With the exception of rocks awash a cable off the west side of Rag island, a rock awash one cable off the north-east part of Cliffy island, and the rocks mentioned as lying off Seal island to the north-west- ward, the islands are all steep-to. CLIFFY ISLAND.— LIGHT.— A stone lighthouse, 25 feet high, on the southern side of Cliffy island, exliibits a flashing red light, showing five flashes every mmute ; it is elevated 180 feet above the sea, and should be seen in clear weather from a distance of 15 miles. Fog" Sigrnal. — The fog signal at Cliffy island lighthouse is a gun, which, during thick or foggy weather, is fired once every five minutes. CORNER INLET, lying between Entrance point and La Trobe island, is the entrance to Corner basin, an extensive sheet of water between Wilson promontory and the land to the northward, with deep channels leading between its numerous mud-flats. The inlet is fronted by a bar (which is 2 miles across), the deepest water over which at low water is 22 feet. Within the bar S.E. by E. \ E. 4 miles from Entrance point, there is a depth of 5J fathoms of water. Here the channel is more than a mile wide, decreasing to half a mile between Entrance point and La Trobe island ; having crossed the bar the depths in the channel gradually increase, until nearly abreast of Entrance point, where the depth is 18 and 19 fathoms. Buoys. — There are two black buoys moored on the southern side of Corner inlet, the outer lies in 5 fathoms S.E. by E., 3^ miles, and the other in 3^ fathoms S.E. by E. \ E., one mile from Entrance point. There is also a black and white buoy moored in 10 feet water off the point of La Trobe island, immediately opposite Entrance point ; this buoy is for vessels making use of Bentley harbour. No good mark can be given for entering the inlet. The chart and lead are the best guides ; no stranger, however, should attempt to enter Corner inlet without a pilot. Corner inlet sand-banks. — The coast of the promontory north- ward of Rabbit island is fronted by an extensive shoal sand-bank. See chart, No. 1.703. 528 PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. [Chap. VII. The south-east extremity of the shoal with 17 feet water lies N.E. | N. 3 miles from Rabbit island, and its inner part trends thence west- ward to the shore, leaving 3^ and 4 fathoms between it and Rabbit island, as well as in a gully between it and the land. A line drawn from Rabbit island to the bar entrance to port Albert passes over the seaward and south-eastern parts of the banks extending from Corner basin. The end of the bank on the south side of the entrance to Corner inlet is on this line, N.E. by N. 5 miles from Rabbit island. The 3-fathoms line forming the edge of the southern bank turns from this point W. by S. for 2 miles, when it trends N.W. ^ W. 4^ miles to Entrance point. The northern banks of Corner inlet extend from the point of La Trobe island, opposite Entrance point, in a S.E. by E. direction for 6 miles, then curving to the westward for more than a mile, in about 12 feet, at low water. The deepest channel to Corner inlet lies between these banks, and is about half a mile wide, with 22 feet at low water. The outer parts of the northern banks just described trend to the north-west for about 2 miles, and then in a westerly direction for a mile to Townsend point, where they approach the land to one-third of a mile and form the southern side of the channel into Bentley harbour. Clearing' mark. — Mount La Trobe, open south of Rabbit island, S.W. ^ S. (S. 42° W.), leads a quarter of a mile south-east of the banks. CORNER BASIN extends 4 miles north and south, and 14 miles from Entrance point to the north-west corner of the basin, into which flows Tar win rivulet. The northern and south-eastern shores are fronted by swampy mangrove islands, and the basin is mostly filled by mud-banks. Franklyn channel is the main channel in Corner basin, it extends about 8 miles in a westerly direction from between Entrance point and La Trobe island, then dividing into three creeks. It has a width of from 3 cables to nearly one mile, with depths of 5 to 18 fathoms. Two black buoys are on its south side at about 7 cables N.W. of mount Singapore, and at the end of a spit where the channel divides. See chart, No. 1,70? Chap. VII.] CORNER BASm.— BENTLBY HARBOUR. 529 A narrow sand-bank on the north side of the channel is marked by a black and white striped buoy at each end and by a red buoy on its south side 1^ miles from its east end. The entrance to Lewis channel is marked by a black and white striped buoy at N.N.W. 2 miles from mount Singapore, the channel then curves to the north and north-east 4 miles to the township of Welshpool, where there is a jetty from which a fixed white light, visible about 3 miles is exhibited. The middle of the three creeks at the end of Franklyn channel, known as Stockyard creek, is marked by two buoys, a red buoy on the north and a black buoy on the south side. Benison channel extends to the south-west from the west side of mount Singapore for about 8 miles, and Middle channel to the S.W. by W. from the north side of mount Singapore for about 9 miles. BENTLEY HARBOUR.— During the continuance of strong easterly or south-easterly gales, vessels may anchor in Bentley harbour, which, as already described, lies between La Trobe island and the northern banks of the inlet ; they are there protected from all winds, and there is a strong ebb stream to assist them in getting out again. Bentley harbour is protected to the southward by a sand-bank which dries at low water. The pilot stationed at port Albert often takes vessels through Bentley harbour into Corner basin. Leading: mark. — A good leading mark in is mount Singapore open of Townsend point, the southern poinc of La Trobe island, W. ^ S. (S. 87° W.). When abreast of Townsend point keep along the shore and anchor as convenient. Pilots are always on the look out at port Albert, and will come off at any time. Caution. — Mariners are recommended to avail themselves of their services, and not to attempt to enter either Corner inlet or port Albert without local knowledge. La Trobe island, which lies between Corner basin and port Albert entrance, extends from the point abreast Entrance point, E. by S. 2J miles to Townsend point, and thence with a curve inwards N.E. J^ E. 4 miles to port Albert lighthouse, which is situated nearly Se0 ehart, No. 1,703. so 11712 2 L 530 PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. [Chap. VII. a mile from the east point of that part of the island called Snake island. La Trobe island is low, but the trees on it give it an apparent elevation of 40 to 60 feet. Snake island is a narrow island about 1^ miles long at the east end of La Trobe island with which it is almost connected. Ligrht. — From a tower on Snake island and at about 40 feet above high water, a fixed green light is exhibited, which should be seen from a distance of 4 miles in clear weather. Signal and pilot station. — The signal and pilot station is on Snake island and communication can be made by the commercial code of signals. This station receives flag signals from Clonmel island station. Olonmel island is the narrow sandy island, only 14 feet high, which forms the east side of the entrance to port Albert. It extends N.N.E. I E. 2\ miles to an entrance known as Kate Kearney channel, which always breaks across, and probably has its outside bar above low- water mark. There is a signal staff and station on the north-west part of the island. PORT ALBERT. — The entrance to port Albert is over a mile wide between the east point of Snake island and Clonmel island on the opposite side. But this entrance is divided by a large bank of sand, which extends from midway between these two islands for nearly 2 miles in a southerly direction. On this large bank of sand there are two parts which form islands, one being elevated 3 and the other 2 feet above high water. From the north point this sand-bank also extends in a south-westerly direction for one mile, with a small detached sand-bank off its south- west extreme. The population of Port Albert, a township at the mouth of the Tarra river, was in 1891, 415 ; of Alberton on the east bank of the river Albert, 4 miles distant, and the surrounding district, about 3,000. Port Albert is one of the principal fishing grounds in the colony. Its exports are wattle bark, leather, raw hides, and grain. There is communication with Melbourne by rail ; there is also See chart, No. 1,703. •Chap. VII.] PORT ALBERT. 531 telegraphic communication, and regular steam communication with Melbourne. Port Albert has monopolised the trade of the district, which is not large. There is a wharf with 6 feet at low water, but vessels drawing 10 feet can lie alongside it, as the bottom is all soft mud . A life-boat is stationed at the town of Port Albert, 4 miles from the entrance. Snake Chaiinel. — The north-west side of the bank described forms the south-east side of a very narrow channel running close along the shore of La Trobe island, with 5 feet water generally at its •shoalest part. This is known as Snake or Western channel. It is marked by three black buoys to be left on the port hand entering, and five red buoys to be left on the starboard hand entering. Main channel. — From the south-east part of Clonmel island :another sand-bank extends in a southerly direction for more than a mile. It is between this bank and the one extending from mid- entrance that the main channel into port Albert lies, and from the tails of these banks breakers extend in a south-easterly and southerly direction, those to the eastward extending nearly a mile, and those to the westward half a mile. The bar of port Albert is strictly speaking only navigable for vessels drawing 9 feet water. Vessels of greater draught run the risk of being detained inside either for high tides or smooth water. Though the general feature of the bar of port Albert remains the -same, yet in so far as the navigation is concerned it is continually , shifting. A body of sand appears to be perpetually driving from the east to the west side of the channel, but more particularly during strong breezes from the eastward or south-east. The tidal stream out of the port is considered, however, to keep a channel across the bar of 5 feet at low water, though it may be doubted whether at all times even this depth is maintained. Wreck buoys are sometimes moored in the channel over wrecks which interfere with shipping. See chart, No. 1,703. so 11712 J^^^y DIVERSITY 532 PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. [Chap. VII. Inside the bar the depth increases rather suddenly ; when abreast of the south point of Clonmel island there are from 8 to 11 fathoms. About one-third of a mile N.W. ^ W. of this point is a black buoy which is moored on the tail of a spit extending in a S . by W. direction from the east point of Sunday island. Within the entrance there are two channels, the deeper one sweeping round westward, northward, and north-eastward for 7 miles ; and the other northward and westward for 5 miles, when they re-unite at a point N. ^ W. 4 miles from Snake island lighthouse. The western trend, north-eastward of Sunday island, is called the Midge channel. The space enclosed by these channels is occupied by Sunday and a few smaller islands separated at low water by mud-banks. Sunday island is mostly covered with ti trees, the highest being about 41 feet above high water. It is surrounded by mud fiats. The Eastern channel, from its commencement at the black buoy off Clonmel island, is from one to 2 cables wide ; it extends in a northerly direction for nearly 3 miles, when it forms two branches, . the one to the westward being the Midge channel, already spoken of, and the other, which trends in a N.N.E. direction, and leads to the township of Port Albert, 7 miles from the bar. From the junction the town is distant nearly 2 miles. The channel from the black buoy at the entrance is well marked by wooden piles on either side, those on the port hand being painted black, and those on the starboard hand red. In the channel, until its turn to the N.N.E., are from 15 to 25 feet, and thence to the township 15 to 6 feet, which latter depth is also the depth at the wharf, though 10 feet at low water will be found in the stream. The shoalest water in the channel is about 2 cables from the wharf. The channel runs between numerous low islands, generally mangrove, with other smaller channels between them, mostly dry at low water. The continuation of the eastern channel is known as the river Tarra Tarra, upon which, at 2 miles from the town of Port Albert in a straight line, is the township of Tarraville. Tarra Ville is a small township on the left bank of the Tarra, near its mouth. Small vessels can get up to it at high water. It is a telegraph station. There is communication by coach with Port Albert, and thence with Melbourne by rail. The population was 140 in 1891. The Western channel.— Inside the narrow western channel See chart No. 1,703. Chap. VII.] PORT ALBERT. 533 is a red buoy moored close to the sand-bank, which extends to the bar ; it lies nearly 4 cables N.E. of the east point of Snake island, and nearly 2 cables North of this buoy is a black buoy on the south edge of a sand-bank. From the north-east end of Snake island the channel trends West 3^ miles, North one mile, and north-easterly for 2^ miles, to the Midge channel, where a branch, which takes the name of the Albert river, continues to trend in a north-easterly direction for a further distance of 2 miles, whence it becomes more winding, and at a distance of 4 miles is Alberton. Coal of good quality is found to the westward of the township, but the country is densely wooded. On both sides of this channel, which for 3 miles is 3 cables broad, there are mud-banks, and when clear of La Trobe island, at 3jj miles from the entrance, there is a channel leading to Welshpool, fit only for boats and small craft. Midway the meeting of the tidal streams has formed mud-banks, which at low- water spring tides completely block the channel. Tides and tidal Sig'nals. — No tides were observed at the bar. It may be presumed that the time of high water, full and change, is the same as at Rabbit island, or h. 14 m. ; springs rise 8 feet. The signal master at the port, who has great opportunities of watching the tides, reports that for six months of the year, ending with the month of February, the highest tides occur in the morning. The P.M. tides begin to be the highest in March. Winds from W.S.W. 'Cause the highest tides. When the wind is eastward of South a lowjiide follows. Tidal signals denoting the tidal stream and the depth of water over the bar in the Western channel, leading to Port Albert, are exhibited daily between sunrise and sunset, from the flagstaff above the light- liouse tower on Snake island as, follows : — Cone at eastern yardarm — Ebb stream. Cone at western yardarm — Flood stream. Cone at half mast — Under 6 feet depth of water. One ball suspended from yard — 7 feet depth of water. Two balls ?) »> >» — 8 5) ?) Three balls ?> » j; — 9 » >» Four balls ?> ?5 )? —10 >J » Five balls 55 » ?» —11 )> '> Six balls ?? ?> ?> —12 ?J ?> Seven balls ft » >? —13 » >J and OTcr, See chart, No . 1,703. 534 PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. [Chap. VII^ The average depth of water over the bar in the western channel is. 6 feet at low water springs. As shown above, one ball indicates 7 feet and every additional ball an additional foot of water. DIRECTIONS.— To port Albert from the westward, after rounding Wilson promontory, steer for cape Wellington, after passing which keep Rodondo island just open of it, bearing S. by W. i W. (S. 17° W.) until mount Singapore is in line with Townsend point W. ^ S. (S. 84° W.), whi^ih A^dll ensure a distance of a mile from the bar ; or, in the event of Rodondo being obscured, mount La Trobe kept open south of Rabbit island S.W. J S. (S. 42° W.), will lead rather more than a mile to the south- eastward. When a mile off the bar, the break will be observed ; the pilot will at once board the vessel. It must be borne in mind that, as the coast of La Trobe island is low, Townsend point is not visible off the bar, except from a height of above 15 feet; and the lead should be attended to. From the Eastward vessels may approach the shore to a distance of 3 miles, and if at that distance, and coasting to the southward,, they will observe the break on the bar ; or they may bring mount La Trobe in line with Rabbit island S.W. ^ S. (S. 42° W.), and make out the bar from that line. The lighthouse on Snake island is an object by which the bar may be recognised. For the gunpowder anchorage see page 499. Caution. — Mariners are cautioned against attempting port Albert bar without a pilot. See pages 529-30. At nigrllt, — As the land is very low, it is recommended not to- approach port Albert by night, but to keep a good offing until day- light, and attend to the lead. The COAST.— Half a mile N.N.E. of Clonmel island is another island of similar formation, which trends in an E.N.E. direction for 1| miles, where there is an entrance between it and the island form- ing the western side of Shallow inlet. This latter island is nearly 4 miles long N.E. by E. ^ E., with a few hummocks upon it, the highest being those near its eastern extreme, upon one of which (42 feet high) a surveying station is erected. The island, except where the hummocks rise, or a few scattered bushes grow, is scarcely See chart, No. 1,703. Chap. VII.] SHALLOW INLET.— MBRRIMAN CREEK. 535 above high water and composed of sand. All is covered with a dwarf vegetation. Shallow inlet is about 4 cables wide from shore to shore. From either side of the entrance, sand-spits extend in a southerly direction, the eastern for three-quarters of a mile, the western for half a mile, leaving a channel between them with not less than 3 feet at low water. The inlet is never used by shipping. The COAST. — From the eastern shore of the inlet the coast trends N.E. ^ N. for 3J miles, and thence N.E. by N. in a nearly straight line to Merriman creek entrance. The distance from Shallow inlet to Merriman creek is 24^ miles ; and as the coast from Shallow inlet ceases to have any more openings for a considerable distance, by which even boats may enter, this distance may be spoken of as the first portion of the Ninety-mile beach, which may be said to end at Conran point, though the Red bluff at the old entrance to the lakes is a break to its uniformity. From Shallow inlet to Merriman creek the coast line is nearly separated from the land at the back, which is somewhat higher and thickly timbered, by fresh and salt lagoons or ti-tree swamps, generally salt. At a distance of 17 miles from the inlet, a slightly elevated piece of country, thickly timbered, about 150 feet in height, nears the coast to half a mile, and just to the eastward of this is situated lake Denison, whose waters discharge into and near the mouth of Merriman creek. This district is all low, having an elevation from 50 feet to the westward to only 25 to the eastward. Here and there the hummocks fall considerably, and much of the coast is scarcely above high water, while in heavy rains the water of the lagoons breaks through the coast line. Sounding's. — From 18 miles north-east of Shallow inlet to the neighbourhood of port Albert is one immense flat with 6 to 9 fathoms at a mile from the shore, gradually increasing to 13 and 14 fathoms at a distance of 6 miles. Eastward of Seal islands the depths are somewhat greater, especially off Cliffy island, where there are 20 fathoms at the distance of a cable. A depth of 10 fathoms runs from 2 to 3 miles off the coast about Merriman creek, inside the Seal islands, to the southern shore of Sealers cove. From Seal See chart, No. 1,695^. 536 PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE, [Chap. VII. islands to the Moncoeur islands, which lie S.E. of Wilson promontory at a distance of 7 and 8 miles, and towards the promontory, the depths gradually increase, but are no guide to the vicinity. The greatest depth of 43 fathoms, gravel, is about 3 miles S.S.W. of Wilson promontory lighthouse. NINETY-MILE BEACH.— The line of coast between Shallow inlet and the Red bluff is locally known as the Ninety-mile beach. Landing may be effected on it, but such a measure is extremely dangerous, as the beach is treacherous, being what is commonly known as a double beach. When only a few miles from the land on the western part of the Ninety-mile beach nothing can be seen but the back ranges of mountains. These extend in a south-westerly direction for 27 miles, from Toms cap, 1,196 feet high, lying 19 miles West of Merriman creek, to mount Fatigue, which is 2,050 feet above the sea. The range between rises to summits of even greater elevation than mount Fatigue, the highest being 2,453 feet. A range of hills, the highest of which is mount Albert, 1,050 feet high, lies S.E. and East of mount Fatigue at a distance of 6 to 12 miles. From Corner inlet, north-eastward, to the Red bluff, eastward of the old entrance to the Gipps Land lakes, the coast is a continuous sandy beach, much broken by inlets and small streams, the latter breaking through the narrow strip of sand after a heavy rainfall. Although a sandy beach is again found north-eastward of the Red bluff for a distance of 30 miles yet this is not a part of the well known, and hitherto dreaded, Ninety-mile beach. From Merriman creek, which is N.E. by N. 24J miles from Shallow inlet, the coast stretches, with a slight curve inwards, N.E. ^ N. 50 miles to the entrance of the Gipps Land lakes. All this coast is low, from 40 to 85 feet in height, in some places densely covered with ti tree, in others sparsely timbered with honeysuckle, the whole of so uniform and monotonous appearance that, with one exception, no objects easy of identification to the mariner present themselves. The exception is a group of houses immediately at the back of the entrance to Merriman creek, known as Buckley's station. Lakes or lagoons extend close inside the sand-hummocks the See chart, Ne. l,695rt and No. 1,016, Comer inlet to Gabo island, scale w = 02 incn. Ghap. VII.] NINETY-MILE BEACH. 537 whole distance ; inside these lakes the land is low and densely timbered, and the same low country interspersed with lakes and marshes extends for miles inland, much of it being subject to floods. At distances from Merriman creek of 18, 24, and 28 miles respectively are three hummocks (the easternmost is named Stockyard hill), on two of which marks have been erected. The middle hummock is covered with ti tree, and easily identified by coasters. At a distance of 10 miles W. by S. of the old entrance of the •Gipps Land lakes, and 3 miles from the outer line of coast, is a bluff, known as Tambo, about 250 feet high. Two miles S.E. of Tambo bluff is Shaving point, and this comparatively high land on the north shore of the Gi^jps Land lakes continues to the lakes entrance, then follows to Red bluff, skirts the arms and streams of lake Tyers beyond it, and following the line of the shore at about 2 miles inland, is not again lost ; and giving as it does a higher appearance to the coast line, clearly marks the difference between the land to the eastward and that to the westward of the old entrance to the Cripps Land lakes. The most conspicuous portion of the land just described is Jemmy s point, which lies north-westward 4 cables from the new entrance of the lakes ; it is 233 feet high, and partly cleared of timber. The :artificial (New) entrance supersedes the old natural entrance, which partially closed in 1889. The NEW ENTRANCE to the GIPPS LAND LAKES is about 4^ miles W.S.W. of Red bluff. This entrance has an average ■depth of 12 feet at low water and is navigable during daylight in moderate weather, at slack water, for steam vessels or vessels in tow •of steamers. Steam-vessels trade regularly to the lakes ; the vessels are flat- l3ottomed. The worst months for navigation are March, April, May, ;and June. The entrance is easily recognisable by Jemmys point, the Red bluff to the east, and the flagstaff on the sand hummocks at the •eastern side of it. See chart, No. 1,016. i)3(S PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. [Chap. VII. Navigration signal ligrlltS. — A white light is shown from the extremity of the platform on East pier, when the entrani^e is safely navigable and a red light is shown there when the entrance is dangerous. Tidal signals. — Semaphores and wicker balls,* painted white, denoting the state of the tidal stream, depth of water and condition of the entrance for navigation, are exhibited daily between sunrise and sunset, from a flagstaff erected on the sand hummocks at the eastern side of the entrance, as follows : — Out-going stream running Slack at low water In-going stream running Slack at high water ... Depth of water 9 ft. ins. 9 „ 6 10 „ 10 11 11 12 6 6 more Ball at eastern yard arm. Two balls at eastern yard arm. Ball at western yard arm. Two balls at western yard arm. One semaphore. Two semaphores. Three Four „ Five Six and Wait for tide Entrance dangerous ... All other signals are made by the commercial code Ball at masthead. One ball half-mast. Two balls half-mast. Light. — A light is exhibited from the flagstaff to indicate the position of the entrance, but it does not in any way mark the fairway. Gipps Land. — The climate and soil of Gipps Land are well fitted for the growth of oranges, limes, hops, tobacco, and opium, and the rivers abound in fish. The most important exports of Gipps Land are gold, wattle bark, cattle, wool, leather, grain, hops, dairy produce,, sheep and kangaroo skins, and a large fish trade. The principal towns are Sale the capital, and Bairnsdale. Sale lies 9 miles up the river La Trobe, which falls into lake Wellington, and is 50 miles from the entrance to the lakes. It is Sec chart, No. 1,016, with plan of Gripps Land lakes entrance. €liap. VII.] GIPPS LAND LAKES. 539* connected with Melbourne by rail and telegraph, and had a population of 3,442 in 1891. The district is pastoral, agricultural and mining. Hops are largely cultivated. Bairnsdale, 20 miles from the entrance to the lakes, lies 8 miles up the river Mitchell, which falls into lake King. There is a telegraph station here, and it is in connection with Melbourne by railway. Hops are largely grown in the vicinity and the country is both pastoral and mineral. The population was 3,270 in 1891. Sigrnal station. — There is a signal station at Cunninghame, about 2 miles to the eastward of the New entrance and nearly half a mile inland. Communication can be made by the commercial code and the station is connected by telegraph. ^ Communication can also be made by the commercial code with the station at the New entrance to the lakes. LigrhtS. — The following lights are exhibited in the Gipps Land lakes ; they are visible from a distance of about 2 to 3 miles in clear weather. Reeves river entrance, north end of eastern pier, a fixed red light ; north side at the end of Bullock island barrier, a fixed white light. South wharf, about 150 yards N.E. of flagstaff, a fixed green light. Cunninghame jetty, a fixed red light. Shaving point, ^ fixed red light. Metung jetty, 2, fixed green light. On the south-east side of channel leading from lake King to Tambo river, a fixed green light. Entrance to Mitchell river on the south side, a fixed white light and a fixed red light marking the west side of the entrance to Jones bay. McMillan strait, eastern entrance. A fixed light showing red to the north of the beacon on the shoal extending from the north-east end of Raymond island, and white south of the beacon. McMillan strait, Paynesville jetty, 2^ fixed red light. See chart, No. 1,016. 510 PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. [Chap. VII. McLennan strait, lake Victoria entrance. A fixed light showing white in the entrance to the strait from lake Victoria, and red to the south-east and north-west of the entrance. Seacombe jetty, 2^ fixed green light. McLennan strait, lake Wellington entrance. K fixed light, showing white from the outer pile beacon round southerly to Roseneath point, and red from Roseneath point round westerly to the outer beacon. La Trobe river, lake Wellington. A fixed light showing white between the entrance beacons, and red to the north and south of the beacons. Adjustment of compasses. — A swinging station consisting of one centml beacon and four surrounding beacons has been established in Eagle*point bay, lake King, at which vessels may be swung for the adjustment of compasses. The magnetic bearings of several conspicuous landmarks from the central beacon are as follows : — Pile No. 1 ... : N. 0°18'E. Pile No. 2 S. 89° 54' E. Pile No. 3 S. 0°4rW. Pile No. 4 N. 89°36'W. Tambo river, light beacon ... N. 57° 2' E. Raymond island, north-east end N. 76° 31' E. Cowl, James hop kiln ... N. 68° 31' W. Mount Look-out Gap ... N. 50° 57' W. Mount Taylor Gap ... ... N. 42° 29' W. The magnetic variation being considered 0° 10' E. TIDES. — It was found to be high water, full and change, at the old entrance of the lakes at 8 h. 30 m. ; the greatest rise observed at spring tides was 3 feet ; but at a position on the beach 15 miles to the west- ward it was high water, full and change, at midnight, the same time nearly as at Rabbit island, and port Albert. Here the rise was ;also 3 feet, and in both places the rise depended entirely upon the wind, rising highest with south-westerly winds. In calms, or with other than south-westerly winds, or even with south-westerly winds if light, the rise was almost nothing, upon one occasion during a .calm only giving a range of one inch. Red bluff lies E.N.E. one mile from the old entrance to the lakes ; it is over 100 feet high, and conspicuous from its colour. It See. chart, No. 1,016. Chap. VII.] RED BLUFF.— LAKE TYERS. 541 rises gradually to a height of 200 feet, and, like the land about it, i» thickly timbered, though not so much near the coast as inland ; the bluff has a few rocks off it, which do not extend far to seaward. From Red bluff' the coast, which is similar to the land of Red bluff,, runs N.E. by E. J E., 1^ miles to the entrance to lake Tyers. Lake Tyers. — The entrance to lake Tyers is generally barred across, but after a season of heavy rains the bar opens, and vessels of nearly 6 feet draught can enter during the short period that it is. open ; it is easily recognised from seaward. Tidal signals to denote the depth of water on the bar are shown between sunrise and sunset from a flagstaff* on the mainland near the entrance. Ebb tide is indicated by letter J, commercial code, at half-mast ; and the flood by the same flag at the masthead. ASPECT.— When off the Ninety-mile beach at a distance of 10 or lii miles (unless near its eastern part), nothing will be visible except the high mountainous ranges to the west, north-west, and northward ; the coast being generally about 60 feet high, is not visible from a ship's deck at that distance. As the eastern part of the Ninety-mile beach is approached, the mountain ranges gradually near the shore and take the character of high and distinct hills, or separate hilly ranges. Mount Taylor.— The first hill of importance is mount Taylor,. 1,G30 feet high ; this hill lies W. by N. ^ N. 25 miles from the old entrance to the lakes ; as the trees on the summit have been cut down, it presents a table-like appearance. A hill of greater extent, but not so high, lies 2 miles West and N.W. of mount Taylor. Little Dick, N.N.W. 23 miles from the entrance of the lakes, is. 3,154 feet high, and shows generally with three round summits ;. being a high and large range it is a conspicuous landmark. Mount Willie.— South-east of Little Dick, and 9 miles from the coast at lake Tyers, is a prominent hill known as mount Willie. It is 1,182 feet high, has a flattish top, and is conspicuous as being nearer the coast than any hill from Wilson promontory to lake Tyers. St!a chart, No. 1,016. 542 PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. [Chap. VII. Mount Tara, N.N.E. :^ E. 9 miles from mount Willie, has two conspicuous summits with other smaller summits of lesser importance ; the principal summit is flat-topped, and 1,993 feet high. Much timber has been cut down here, but a solitary large tree is left standing ; the large gap on the summit of the hill and the solitary tree enable strangers to recognise mount Tara. From mount Tara eastward and north-eastward the country is mountainous, some of the ranges approaching within a few miles of the coast. The COAST from the entrance to lake Tyers trends with a curve E. by N. | N. 21 miles to the Snowy river entrance, and is similar to that westward of the entrance to the lakes, though the sand- hummocks are higher, especially towards Snowy river, near which they attain a height of 176 feet. Immediately at the back of the coast, extending the whole distance, is a fresh- water morass, and generally half a mile from its margin is the higher back country, which along this part of the coast is about 200 feet high and densely timbered. The hummocky coast is faced with sand-cliffs or patches, but of so uniform an appearance that only one patch close to the Snowy river is worthy of notice. This patch, lying half a mile to the westward of the entrance, is a good guide to it ; a log station built by the survey party on the highest hummock, rather more than a mile West of the Snowy river, is also a good guide. Shoal. — At 4 miles S. by W. ^ W. of the Snowy river entrance is a patch of uneven rocky bottom, upon which the least depth found was 8 fathoms ; close to this foul ground is 20 fathoms, sand. Snowy river has an entrance similar to lake Tyers ; it discharges a large body of water, and appears during the time it is open to preserve nearly the same depth as is found on the bar at the entrance to that lake. The entrance with similar precautions to those taken at the lakes, is equally safe. The land about Snowy river is occupied as cattle stations, and is a large maize growing district.* JAght. — ^A beacon erected on the eastern side of the entrance to Snowy river exhibits, at 100 feet above high water, Si fixed red light, which should be seen from a distance of 6 miles in clear weather. This light does not mark the fairway over the bar of the river ; it is only intended to indicate the approach to the entrance. See chart, No. 1,016. * Mario, at the junction of Snowy and Bioiribb rivers, is a beautiful spot and likely to become a favourite watering place. «Chap. VII.] SNOWY RIVER. — CONRAN POINT. 543 RicardO point bears E. ^ N. 41 miles from the Snowy river -entrance. Some years since this entrance was close to the westward of the point, but a low sandy shore now occupies the space between, at the back of which is a salt-water lake, with an occasional opening into the sea, near the mouth of the Snowy river. The hummocks on Ricardo point are about 100 feet high, the point itself is rocky, sunken rocks extending more than 2 cables from the shore in all directions. Mount Raymond.— N.N.W. 6 miles from Ricardo point is mount Raymond, a conspicuous hill, 992 feet high at its north -elevation ; mountain spurs extend in a southerly and south-easterly direction. CONRAN POINT lies E. ^ N. 5 miles from Ricardo point ; it projects nearly one mile from the general line of coast, but is not easily distinguished ; the land about the point is flat, and covered with a dense dwarf scrub. On the highest part of the point, 192 feet above the sea, a surveying station is erected, but this is not visible except when it is within a distance of 2 or 3 miles. The coast between Conran and Ricardo points forms a sandy bight, skirted vdth grassy hummocks over 100 feet high. In the centre is one <;onspicuous hummock 163 feet high, w^ith a sand-patch near its summit, over which is a grove of ti tree. Under the eastern part of Conran point, extending one-third of a mile off shore, are numerous sunken rocks upon which the sea breaks heavily. In fine weather there is landing to the westward of the point ; landing will also be found to the eastward, but it is not good. At one and a half miles inland from Conran point, and extending at that distance from the coast to the Snowy river, the higher ground is densely timbered, with an average height of about 300 feet. Beware reef lies E. J N. about 2^ miles from Conran point ; the reef is 8 feet above high water, and has sunken rocks (upon which ,the depth is uncertain) lying East and S.E. of it to a distance of one- third of a mile. Pearl point bears E. by N. | N. 7^ miles from Conran point ; the low sandy coast between forms a bight, and the back range rises to a height of about 300 feet. In the bight are two small -fresh- water streams ; off the mouth of the westernmost are two ^e chart, No. 1,016, 544 PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. [Chap. VII. patches of sunken rocks more than a quarter of a mile from the shore. To the eastward of Pearl point are two conspicuous conical sand- cliffs, which render the point easy to identify. Scattered rocks lie off Pearl point to the southward for a distance of 2 cables, and one mile to the eastward sunken rocks extend from the shore one-third of a mile. The ridge of densely timbered broken country spoken of as lying at the back of Conran point, is also found at the back of Pearl point, whence it extends more inland towards mount Cann at the back of Sydenham inlet. . The aspect of the land, at the back of Pearl point is marked in character, as from the Snowy river eastward to cape Howe there is no part of the coast that is not defined by some conspicuous- mountain or hill. At the back of Ricardo point, 6 miles inland, is mount Raymond, which has been already described. N. by E. ^ E.. of mount Raymond, distant 12 miles, is the conspicuous long range of Diana, over 3,000 feet high ; and still to the N.N.E., at a distance of 21 miles from mount Raymond, is mount Ellery, a double-peaked mountain. A surveying station is erected on its southern summit,, being built on an enormous granite boulder 4,300 feet above the sea. Sydenham inlet. — From Pearl point the coast runs in a nearly straight line E. by N. ^ N. GJ miles to Sydenham inlet, the entrance to lake Bemm ; over this district are well grassed hummocks about 100 feet in height, northward of which the land is low for some distance. At the back of lake Bemm the land is densely timbered,, with an elevation of about 300 feet. Sydenham inlet is small, and not worthy of particular notice- North of lake Bemm, at a distance of 8 miles from the coast is mount Cann, a peaked hill 1,885 feet high, upon the summit of which is a surveying station. Trees have been felled to make the station clear^ and the gap will prevent mistake as to the identity of this mountain.. From Sydenham inlet the coast trends E. by N. 5| miles to the Tamboon river, and thence about 2 miles in the same direction to a rocky stretch of coast, off which are several sunken and dry rocks,, the highest of which, named Cloke rock, is 25 feet above high water- One and a half miles inland is Point Hicks hill, 924 feet high. CAPE EVERARD bears E. J S. GJ miles from the Tamboon river, and is easily recognised by a sandy peak 538 feet high, lying Site chart, No. 1,016. Chap. VII.] CAPE BVERARD. 545 about one mile North, of the cape. This summit has a gradual fall to the westward of bare sand, and is more remarkable when viewed from that direction. Cape Everard has four points, the southernmost of which projects neafty IJ miles from the line of coast. The cape is composed of granite, with boulders strewed over the whole face. There islanding in fine weather in the western bight. A deep but exposed bight lies to the south-eastward of the cape. A rock above high water, and several awash or sunken, are scattered 2 cables off the southern points of cape Everard. A reef of rocks, nearly awash at high water, lies nearly 2 cables East of the eastern part of the cape. There is deep water between these rocks, the outer of which has 18 fathoms close-to to seaward. Dangers off cape Everard. — In addition to the scattered rocks there is a rock 3 feet above low water, and therefore barely covered at high water, lying E. by S. | S. three-quarters of a mile from the southern part of the cape ; and another the same distance E. ^ N. from the same point, with only 7 feet on it at low water. These detached dangers occupying a position close to the fairway of steam vessels between Melbourne and Sydney, require due caution to avoid them. LIGHT. — Cape Everard lighthouse, on the south extreme of the cape, built of concrete, painted white and 98 feet high, exhibits at 185 feet above high water, a group flashing white light with sectors of red light, showing a double flash every 80 seconds. The white light may be seen from a distance of 21 miles in clear weather, and It is visible seaward through an arc of 188° ; the sectors of red light extend about 1^ miles seaward from the coast line, both eastward and westward of the lighthouse. The illuminating apparatus is by reflectors of the first order. Danger ligllt. — An auxiliary fixed red light and visible through an arc of 188° (the same as the white arc of the principal light), is exhibited from a lower part of the lighthouse. This light is not seen, by an observer 14 feet above the sea until within the distance of about 2 miles from the lighthouse. Note. — The red lights are to warn mariners of too close proximity to the shore or to outlying dangers. See chart, No. 1,016. SO 11712 2 M 546 PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. [Chap. VII. Everard Mil, 5 miles North of cape Everard, is densely timbered, and 1,200 feet high. From cape Everard a sandy beach trends in a north-easterly direction 2 miles to the mouth of the little river Toolaway. f Island point, named from a rock, 30 feet high, which lies close off it to the southward, at about 7 miles eastward of cape Everard ; S.E. by S. 2 cables from this rock is a smaller rock, only one foot above high water. The coast between cape Everard and Island point consists of sandy beaches with rocky points having reefs lying off them for 2 cables. About midway, and close to the coast, is a group of conspicuous bare sand-hnmmocks, and to the eastward of this group are several sand -patches. From Island point the land trends with a curve E. by N. 2^ miles to Rame head. Between cape Everard and Rame head the coast rises gradually inland, until at 2 or 3 miles inland it attains an elevation of about 600 feet. The country is densely timbered and undulating. RAME HEAD, of granite formation, rises to 378 feet on its eastern side ; another summit of the same elevation rises close to the south-westward. The western part of the head is fringed with rocks, and a rock awash lies close to the south-east of the extreme point. Densely timbered ranges occupy the district between Rame head and Genoa peak; the latter bears from the head N. by E. J E. distant 16 miles. From Rame head the coast trends in a northerly direction for 1^ miles as far as a sandy beach ; thence in a north-easterly direction for nearly a mile to Wingan inlet. Over the sandy beach, and near its western part, is a sand-cliff 204 feet high. Wing'an point, which forms the eastern side of the entrance into Wingan inlet, bears from Rame head N.E. by N. 2 miles. Wingan inlet is difficult of access. The best time for entering in a boat is after westerly winds. Landing may sometimes be effected outside the inlet to the westward of Wingan point. Oysters are found in this inlet. Off and southward of the point are the three Skerries rocks, the highest and centre of which is 42 feet above high water. In addition to the Skerries, there are detached rocks, some above high water, lying near them ; the outer of these, which is covered at high water. See chart, No. 1,016. Chap. VII.] RAMB HEAD. — LITTLE RAMB HEAD. .547 is half a mile from Wingan point. From Wingan point the coaEt trends in a north-east direction 4 miles to Sand-patch point. Sand-patch point is well named ; a large body of drift sand near the point making it conspicuous. The only part of the coast which at all resembles Sand-patch point is cape Everard, but there the drift sand is not so conspicuous when seen from the eastward ; the sand also at cape Everard is higher than at Sand-patch point. Danger off Sand-patcll point. — S. ^ E. nearly half a mil« from Sand-patch point is a pinnacle rock with IJ fathoms on it at low water, known as the Long reef. It is a dangerous rock, on which the sea breaks occasionally. «in the surveying steam-vessel Pharos the rock was passed several times, and almost considered not to exist, when one day it was observed to break. A rock awash lies close to the south-eastward of Sand-patch point. Little Rame liead lies N.E. ^ E. 4 miles from Sand-patch point; the coast between is about 300 feet high, and forms a rocky bight with a few sandy beaches. Upon a hill 240 feet high, immediately over the head, a survey station is erected. East of the head, at a distance of 2 cables, is a rock 10 feet above the sea. Race. — Off Little Rame head, at a distance of 4 miles in a S.E. by S. direction, there is a depth of 19 fathoms, rock, near 35 fathoms, sand ; and at a distance of 7 miles in the same direction 27 fathoms, rock, near 50 fathoms. This uneven bottom extends- over a distance of 3 miles, causing a confused sea ; in heavy weather . small craft should avoid the place. The COAST. — From Little Rame head the coast trends with a bight 3 miles N. by E. | E., and ithence with another and deeper bight N.N.E. J E. 5 miles to Bastion point. As a continuous heavy .swell rolls on this coast, it should not be approached nearer than a mile ; it is also fringed with sunken rocks. One mile to the south- west of Bastion point is a conspicuous sand-patch. Bastion point is comparatively low, being only 75 feet high ; the land behind the point, and between it and Little Rame head, is densely timbered, and rises to the height of about 300 feet. South and south-east of Bastion point are numerous rocks en which the sea breaks, one, with 1\ fathoms upon it, lies 3 cables to tha See chart, No. 1,016. so 11712 2 M 2 548 . PORT PHILLIP TO CAPE HOWE. [Chap. VII.. south-east, and another, 3 feet above high water, lies 3 cables to the • south-west. The land of Bastion point forms the Avest side of Mallagoota inlet. There is a landing place in fine weather on the north side of the point. Mallagroota inlet forms the entrance to Mallagoota lake and Genoa river; the bar can rarely be crossed in a boat. The depth upon this bar is uncertain, and except in the finest weather a heavy swell rolls into the inlet, and breaks at half a mile from the shore. Three-quarters of a" mile North of Bastion point is the low and sandy eastern point of Mallagoota inlej. From this point the land forms a sandy bight to Telegraph point, which lies from it E. by N. i N. 6^ miles. At 4 miles from the inlet, the coast projects to the southward,, towards Tullaburga island. Tullaburg-a island, 28 feet high, lying E.N.E. 4 miles from^' Bastion point, is a rock with little soil, and a few bushes on the north-east part. At IJ miles south-westward of Tullaburga there is uneven bottom, but not less than 7 fathoms water was found. GABO ISLAND lies E. i N. 3 miles from Tullaburga island. It. is nearly l^ miles long, in a N.W. by N. and S.E. by S. direction, and about half a mile broad near the centre and south end ; towards the north end the island tapers gradually to a point, which latter consists of low granite boulders, separated by a channel about If cables wide, from Telegraph point on the mainland. Gabo island, composed of red granite, is steep-to in all directions, except to the northward. To the westward the slopes of the island are covered with grass and dwarf bushes. Near the centre are a few sand-hills whose bare sides face the south-east, and only show as sand-hills in that direction ; the remains of the old light-house are upon the highest of these hills^ which has an ele^ ation of 171 feet. On the north-west side of the island is a small sandy bay, with 5 fathoms in the central part, where there is good anchorage for one vessel, except in south-westerly gales. In the course of the survey in 1871 the steam-vessel Pha7vs rode out several moderate south- westerly gales in this bay. It is probable that a gale of some con- See chart, No. 1,016. 'Chap. VII.] GABO ISLAND. 549 tinnance would have to blow direct in before the swell would make 4he anchorage unsafe. It was observed that though there was often -a heavy swell outside, scarcely any was felt at this anchorage. A small but constant stream of fresh water runs out on the small sandy beach at the anchorage. In the narrow channel between Gabo island and the mainland, the deepest part has about 6 feet water ; boats occasionally use this channel, but a confused sea, caused by the meeting of the swell from opposite sides of the island, renders it unsafe. LIGHT. — The lighthouse, 156 feet high, on the south-east extreme of Gabo island, close to high-water mark, is built of red granite, with a white lantern, and exhibits, at 179 feet above high- water, a fixed light of the first order, showing the following sectors : red from S. 14° W. to S. ^4°W.,ivhite from S. 34° W., through west and north, to N. 45° E., red from N. 45° E. to N 84° E. ; it is visible from a distance of 20 miles in clear weather. Danger light. — An auxiliary fixed red light, visible seaward over an arc of 180°, is exhibited from Gabo island lighthouse. This light is invisible to an observer, whose eye is 14 feet above the sea, until ;at a distance of 3 miles or less from the light. It is intended to warn mariners of too close approach to the shore, and when seen, course should be altered to seaward until it is out of sight. In hazy or misty weather mariners should not rely on sighting this red light, but should keep a good offing. Fog* signal. — In thick or foggy weather, from the Gabo island lighthouse station, three explosive rockets are fired in quick succession every 15 minutes. Note. — The rockets explode at a height of about 600 feet with a • sharp report, which, under favourable atmospheric conditions, may be heard at the distance of 5 or 6 miles, but mariners are cautioned, • on hearing the report, to take precautions immediately, as sometimes the sound may only be heard at a much shorter distance. Signal station. — There is a signal station at the lighthouse and communication may be made by the commercial code of signals. It is connected by telegraph (direct to Sydney). See charts, No. 1,016 ; No. 1,211, Raine head to port Jackson, scale m = 0*14 inch ; -No. 1,017, Gabo island to Montague island, scale m = 0*6 inch. 550 PORT PHILLIP TO CAPB HOWE. [Chap. VII. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, at Gabo island at 8 h. 50 m. ; springs rise 6 feet. Tidal streams. — At the western part of the Ninety -mile beach tidal streams exist, which are gradually lost in proceeding north- eastward, and near the entrance of the lakes are not observable. The flood stream runs to the south-west, and the ebb to the north-east, with at 20 miles eastward of Shallow inlet a rate of one knot at springs. See page 551. Currents. — A current, averaging from \ to 1^ knots an hour, /^nerally sets eastward through Bass strait with westerly winds, and westward with easterly winds, continuing for one or two days after the respective winds have ceased. During the progress of the survey, no current was felt inshore between Wilson promontory and Gabo island. Weather. — The experience of the weather on this coast, which was obtained during the survey, does not point to any great hazard in approaching the Ninety -mile beach. In westerly gales compara- tively smooth water is obtained by working up in-shore when to the westward of the entrance of Gipps Land lakes. Easterly gales are not without warning signs, therefore a vessel in-shore when an easterly gale threatens should at once get an offing. As the western part of the Ninety -mile beach is approached, easterly gales are not so generally felt ; Wilson promontory appears to be the dividing point. In the summer months, as westerly gales usually veer to the southward, it is more advisable to stand towards the Tasmanian coast, and so be ready to take advantage of the shift of wind. In the winter months, and more particularly in September, October, and November, the same course cannot be recommended ; the wind during these months does not shift for a continuance, but constantly backs to the west-north-westward. SOUNDINGS. — From Hogan group, 29 miles eastward of Wilson promontory, to 7 miles South of Gabo island, there are 28 to 42 fathoms for the first GO miles. On this line no soundings have been taken, after the first 60 miles until within 10 miles of Rame head, where there are ^& fathoms, sand. Few soundings have been taken beyond iSfee^ chart. No. 1.016. Chap. VII.] TIDES.— TIDAL STREAMS.— SOUNDINGS. 551 10 miles from the coast from Shallow inlet to Gabo island. Twenty- five miles eastward of the inlet there are 20 fathoms ; at the same distance South of the entrance to the lakes are 30 fathoms, and at 27 miles S.E. of the entrance are 29 fathoms, whence the depth increases to 67 fathoms at 7 miles to the eastward. South-south-east of Conran point at 10 miles there are 34 fathoms, and at 40 miles, 70 fathoms. At 5 miles off cape Everard there are 60 fathoms, and this depth is found between Little Rame head and Gabo island at about 7 miles off the land. EASTERN ENTRANCE OF BASS STRAIT. The eastern entrance of Bass strait is the space included between Wilson promontory and the north-east part of Tasmania. Between these two headlands are numerous islands, occupying an extent of about 120 miles, which, from their formation of granite, and the manner in which they lie, as a connecting chain, would appear to have been the upper part of a range of hills which once joined the two lands before natural causes produced the opening which bears the name of Bass strait. That such was the original formation of this part, or at least its disposition a comparatively few years ago, appears extremely probable on inspecting the chart.; as also that Wilson promontory and cape Liptrap were formerly insulated. Tidal stream. — At the eastern part of the fairway of Bass strait, the flood stream sets to the south-west and the ebb to the north- east. Vessels proceeding eastward from the neighbourhood of King island find the tidal stream against them of longer duration than the stream in their favour. CURTIS ISLAND is 1^ miles in length in a N.N.E.and S.S.W. direction. It rises in two peaks ; the southern is square-topped and 1,100 feet high ; the northern, 736 feet high, has a bare granite summit. The coast is precipitous all round, but especially so at the See chart, No. 1,695«. 552 EASTERN ENTRANCE OF BASS STRAIT. [Chap. VII. south end of the island. Landing may be effected close to the north point, but only in very fine weather. Cone island, IJ miles S.E. by E. of the south point of Curtis island, is a rocky islet, 368 feet high ; on its northern side there are two small rocks ; the outer. Passage rock, is distant 3 cables, and uncovers 3 feet at spring tides ; the other is 8 feet above high water ; on its south side, and close-to, there is a remarkable leaning piunacle, 8.2 feet high. Sugar loaf, so named from its appearance, is 308 feet high, and lies 2J miles S.S.E. of the south point of Curtis island ; on its north side, and close-to, there is a small rock, 8 feet high. Clarendon rock, lying 8 cables E. by S. of the north point of Curtis island, has 4 feet water on it at low water springs. This rock is of very small extent, and is surrounded by deep water ; it breaks in heavy weather, but is generally difficult to distinguish. CROCODILE ROCK lies 9| miles N.W. by W. i W. from the north point of Curtis island, and almost in the centre of the channel between Rodondo and the Moncceur islands, and Curtis island. It is a large smooth boulder of granite, about 2 feet above high water springs. The sea almost continuously sweeps over it, so that the rock itself is seldom visible ; as a general rule, however, its position is well marked by the breakers. Cutter rock, IJ miles N.E. | N. from Crocodile rock, has 4 fathoms water on it at low water springs'; it is of small extent, surrounded by deep water, and has not been observed to break. Devil's Tower is a rugged islet, 363 feet high, lying 6^ miles N.N.E. |- E. from the north point of Curtis island ; there are a few detached rocks quite close-to on the south-east side, otherwise it is free from danger or fringing reefs. When viewed from the N.W. or S.E., the Devil's Tower shows a double summit, the north-eastern being the hdgher of the two.* * Reported rocks. — In 1890 the master of the barque Carlisle reported that his vessel struck on a rock 2f miles S.S.E. ^ E. from East Moncoeur island ; the position according to witnesses was 4 miles N.W. by N. from Devil's Tower ; an examination of these localities by H.M. surveying vesssl Dart in 1891, gave no indication of uneven bottom, and it is probable that the Carlisle struck the Crocodile rock. A. search was also made by the Dart for a rock reported to exist about 7 miles E.N.E. of Crocodile rock, but no trace of it or of shallow water was found. See chart, No. 1,6 95^. €hap. VII.] CROCODILE ROCK.— HOGAN GROUP. 553 HOG AN ISLAND, the largest of the group of the same name, the summit of which lies 14^ miles N.E. f N. from Devil's Tower, is 11 miles long, north and south, by three-quarters of a mile wide ; it is 428 feet high, and is precipitous on the south and west sides. To the northward and eastward of Hogan island there are several small islets and rocks ; the outermost, Seal rock, is 15 feet above high water, and lies about 2^ miles N.E. of the summit of Hogan island. There are no hidden dangers in the neighbourhood of the group. Anchorage. — Excellent shelter in heavy southerly winds may be obtained on the north-east side of Hogan island, in the bay formed by the rocks projecting to the northward, and Long island. The water is rather deep (about 20 fathoms), but the holding ground is good. With westerly gales, the bay on the eastern side of Hogan island, and south of Long island, is a better anchorage than the above bay. The depth is 10 to 15 fathoms, with a bottom of rocks, stones, and sand ; affording good holding ground. Water. — Fresh water in small quantities may be obtained on Hogan island, either in the bay on its eastern side, or in the small cove on its north-west side. The Hogan group is infested with black snakes. Sounding's. — There are soundings in 40 to 30 fathoms from Curtis isle to Hogan group, and between them and Wilson promon- tory there are similar depths of water, the bottom being generally sand, shells, and coral. DIRECTIONS. — No other covered dangers are known to exist between Curtis isle and Wilson promontory ; in the night, or during thick weather, it is prudent for a stranger who is desirous of clearing the strait, to obtain a sight of Curtis isle, and pass on its south side, to the southward of the Sugarloaf, between the latter and Judgment rocks, a,s its high summit. Cone islet and Sugarloaf rock to the southward of it, are remarkable objects, by which its identity cannot be mistaken ; (unless passing between the promontory and Rodondo). KENT GROUP, S.E. by E. 18 to 23 miles from Hogan group, • consists of Deal, Dover, and Erith islands, and N.E. isle, which See chart, No. 1 695a. 554 EASTERN ENTRANCE OF BASS STRAIT. [Chap. VII. . lies E.N.E. 1| miles from Garden point, the north extreme of Deal island. Deal island, the largest of the group, is 3]^ miles long and' 24 miles broad. It rises to conical granite hills, some of which are clothed to their summits with an impervious scrub. The highest of these hills, on which is the lighthouse, rises from the south point of the island to the height of 949 feet. The coast is generally precipitous, especially on the south side, and is indented with numerous bays. ' LIGHT. — The lighthouse on Deal island, which is situated on the summit, at the south-west side, and three-quarters of a mile North of the south point of the island, is a circular stone tower 46 feet high, painted white, and exhibits, at 957 feet above high water, a white light which revolves every 'minute and forty seconds. At the distance of 10 miles it i^ fifty seconds bright amd fifty seconds dark. The light may be seen from the distance of 36 miles in clear weather ; but from its great elevation, it is frequently obscured by fogs. The lighthouse is built 2 cables south-eastward of the highest part of the island, and is sufficiently high to show over it. Murray pass, the channel which separates Deal from Erith island, is nearly half a mile wide, with soundings in 25 to 33 fathoms in mid-channel. Erith and Dover islands are connected at low water, but at high water there is a boat passage between them, and together are 3J miles long, N.N.E. and S.S.W., and about IJ miles across, at the broadest part. Erith, the northern island, is irregular in shape with a deeply indented coast line ; a grassy valley, in which is a great numlier of rabbits, runs in a north-west direction through it. Dover island rises abruptly to a height of 774 feet ; the coast, especially on the south side, is precipitous. North rock, a small black rock 27 feet high, lies 4 cables W.N.W. of the northern bluff of Erith island ; there are two smaller rocks about half a cable S.S.E. of it. See chart, No. l,69ba ; and plan of Murray pass on No. 1,694, scale m = 2*1 inches. Chap. VII.] KBKT GROUP. 55^'- N.E. isle is small and 345 feet high, it lies about one mile N.E. of Deal island. At 2 cables N.W. of the north point of the isle- is a remarkable rock, 40 feet high, called from its appearance the- Anvil rock. Anchoragres. — Of the numerous bays with which the coast line- of this group is indented, there are only two where it is at all safe to- anchor. East cove and West cove. East cove affords good shelter in easterly and southerly winds, but it is a dangerous place in a south-westerly gale ; the bottom is^ uneven, the holding ground not good, and in the strength of the tidal stream the swirls and eddies come well into the cove. At the bottom of this cove there is a sandy beach, and a boat-house ; it is here the stores for the lighthouse are landed. There is a fairly good road from the beach to the lighthouse. West cove gives protection from all but north-easterly gales, and' as an anchorage, generally is to be preferred to East cove. At present, however, the space in it is somewhat restricted, owing to- the presence of a wreck close to the N.E. shore of the bay. The channel between Hogan and Kent groups is 17 miles wide, . with soundings in 30 to 35 fathoms. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, ia East cove at^ lOh. 15m. The greatest range of tide observed in January, February, . and March, vras 8 feet. The tides at neaps are very irregular. Tidal streams. — The flood stream comes from the N.E., the ebb from the S.W. In fine weather it is slack water at the time of high and low water ; but this is not always to be depended on, . as the duration of the stream appears to be greatly influenced by the wind. Both flood and ebb run with considerable velocity through Murray pass, frequently causing a very turbulent sea ; in bad weather there are heavy tide rips off all the salient points of this group, and especially at the exposed entrance to the pass. Supplies. — The light keepers and their families are the only inhabitants of this group ; they all reside on Deal island. In 1886 there were about 600 sheep on the island ; a few may be purchased at a reasonable price ; no vegetables are grown, but See charts, No. 1,694 and No. 1,695a. -556 EASTERN ENTRANCE OF BASS STRAIT. [Chap. VII. excellent watercresses grow in profusion in the stream which runs into Garden cove, and can easily be obtained. Water. — Fresh water is abundant in the northern part of Deal island. Communication. — The Tasmanian Government communicate with Deal island once every four months for the purpose of landing . stores. Steamers plying between Sydney and Launceston pass close to this group, and communicate if signalled from the lighthouse flagstaff to do so. SOUTH-WEST ISLAND lies 9J miles W. by S. J S. from the south bluff of Deal island ; it is a small rocky islet half a mile long, north and south, and 323 feet high. JUDGMENT ROCKS, are a group lying to the northward of '8outh-west island. The northern and largest of these rocks is 105 feet high, and distant 9 cables from the north point of South- west island. The passage between these rocks and South-west island should not be used. THE PYRAMID is a bare, square-topped mass of granite, '243 feet high ; there is deep water close to its western side, and from 11 to 20 fathoms for about half a mile from its eastern side ; it is usually surrounded by tide rips, except when there is no wind. This rock has frequently been mistaken for a sail. WRIGHT ROCK, 124 feet high, is situated in lat. 39° 35' 40" S., long. 147° 32' 30" E. This rock should be given a berth of one mile ; there are irregular soundings within that distance around it, and there are several small rocks close to, both on its north and south sides ; it is also generally surrounded by tide rips. The cliannel between Kent group and Wright rock, which is 10 miles wide, has tolerably regular soundings (except within 1^ miles of the rock) in 24 to 29 fathoms, sand and shells ; there are 29 fathoms, gravel and small stones, at 2 miles to the north-west of Wright rock, and the same depth, on a coarse sandy bottom, 5 miles to the northward. This depth continues for 30 miles farther in a See chart No. l,695f<. Chap. VII.] JUDGMENT ROCKS. — FURNEAUX GROUP. 55T' N. by E. direction, when it gradually increases, and the bottom becomes fine sand. Endeavour reef lies 2| miles E. by S. | S. from Wright rock ; it is about half-a-mile long, in a north and south direction ; the reef does not uncover, and is usually marked by a heavy breaker. Beagle rock, 5^ miles E. | S. from Wright rock, is of small extent, 5 feet above high water, and is steep-to. CRAGGY ISLE is bare and rocky, about two-thirds of a mile in length, and rises at its western end to a height of 371 feet. Rocks extend about 2 cables from the western extreme of the isle ; and east-north-eastward of it, for rather more than 4 cables from the eastern extreme. Dangers. — An extensive rocky patch, with a least depth of 2J fathoms, lies upwards of one mile eastward of the east extreme of Craggy isle ; and irregular soundings extend south and south-west- ward from that isle for a distance of about 1^ miles. Craggy rock, S.E., 2J miles from the summit of Craggy isle, has a least depth of 4 fathoms. The soundings between this rock and the patch eastward of Craggy isle are irregular. The dangers in this; locality break heavily in bad weather, and both they and Craggy isle- are usually surrounded by tide rips. Tidal streams. — The flood and ebb streams run through these channels at a rate of about 2 knots at springs. In strong breezes there are generally heavy tide rips in the vicinity of the reefs. FURNEAUX GROUP,*' the south- easternmost of the chain of islands between Wilson promontory and the north-east extreme of Tasmania, consists of Flinders and Barren islands, the largest of the^ group, and numerous smaller islands, rocks and shoals. This group extends from the Sisters S.S.E. nearly 60 miles to Moriarty banks,. and 32 miles across. These islands were inhabited in 1881 by 289 persons who procure a living by seal -fishing and preserving mutton birds ; many of them half-castes, the offspring of marriages between the sealers and aboriginal women. See chart, No. 1,695«. * Discovered by Captain Tobias Fumeaux, (Cook's second in comniand on his. eoond voyage of discovery) in the Adventure in 1773. :558 EASTERN ENTRANCE OP BASS STRAIT. [Chap. VII. The Sisters are two high islands, from one to 5 miles off North point of Flinders island, one bearing E. by S. J S., distant 29 miles, and the other E. ^ S. 32 miles from Deal island lighthouse, ^and are visible in clear weather, at the distance of 30 miles. The 'Sisters have rather uneven surfaces with not much vegetation, but they harbour numerous sea-birds. East Sister is 2J miles long, 615 feet high, and lies 3| miles northward of Flinders island. South of East Sister, and separated from it by a narrow channel, is a ledge of rock, part of which is r above water; the south point of this ledge is 8 cables from the shore. West Sister is 2| miles long, almost divided in the middle by a •deep valley. The western part is 526 feet high, and the eastern 636. The east point of this island lies one mile North of North point •of Flinders island, and 2 miles S. by W. of the west point of East Sister. The soundings around these islands and the north part of Flinders island from North point to Bligh point, are very irregular and are apparently the result of the action of the tidal streams. When passing between the Sisters, take care to avoid a spit which ' extends three-quarters of a mile in a north-westerly direction from ; the N.E. point of West Sister island. Tidal streams. — In the channel between the Sister islands the •stream runs at the rate of 1^ knots at springs. In the channel between West Sister island and Flinders island, the stream runs at a much greater rate, causing tide rips and overfalls, and has scoured ■ out the narrow channel to a depth of over 70 fathoms. FLINDERS ISLAND, the largest of the Furneaux group, is :36 miles long, about N.W. and S.E., 20 miles broad at the centre, :and contains 513,000 acres ; Bligh point, the north-west point of the island, from which a reef projects a short distance, bears nearly E. by S. I S., distant 28J miles from Deal island lighthouse. The X^rincipal ridges on the island take a general S.S.E. direction from its north-west point to its south-west extreme, and are barren and mountainous, presenting a bold abrupt front to the westward, aad .sloping to low land on the eastern side, which is bordered by a sandy beach. These ridges are separated at about the middle of the island, >iby Heathy valley, which stretches across it. The west side of See ckart, No. 1,695a, 'Chap. VII.] THE SISTERS. — FLINDERS ISLA.ND. 559 Flinders island is fronted by several small islands, nnder the lee of which vessels may find shelter from westerly winds. The coast of Flinders island from North point to cape Frankland is rocky and broken, between Bligh point and Sentinel island it falls .back considerably, forming a bay on the side of mount Killiecrankie, in the middle of which there is a small rocky islet 22 feet high. This bay is entirely exposed to the N.W., but affords protection from S. W. gales, the violence of the sea being broken by Sentinel island and the surrounding rocks ; a moderate swell only comes into the bay. Although the bottom is sand, the holding ground is good. There are two places in this bay where boats may find shelter, one amongst the rocks in the south part of the bay, and the other at the N.E. point under mount Killiecrankie. When entering and leaving this bay it is advisable to pass east of the islet, so as to avoid a sunken rock which lies 3 cables south-westward of it. Mount Killiecrankie rises in the north-west part of the island to the height of 1,035 feet. Cape Frankland, S.S.W. 9 miles from Bligh point, is the western and central extremity of a hilly peninsula extending 5 miles N. by W. and S. by E., and 4 miles from the western coast-line of Flinders island. A reef projects a short distance from the cape, and an islet lies half a mile and Sentinel islet 2^ miles N. by E. of it ; rocks extend for some distance from these islets. A reef extends one -third of a mile from the south point of the peninsula ; and in the bight to the eastward of it, is the cluster of Flat rocks, between which and the shore to the northward, there is a boat-harbour, with 3 fathoms water in it. Between the south point of the peninsula of cape Frankland and Settlement point S.E. by S. '6 miles from it, the west coast of Flinders island forms Marshall bay, 3J miles deep, with 8 to 10 fathoms across its entrance, and 9J to 4 fathoms along its southern shore ; but it is exposed to the westward. Roden and Pasco islets, mostly connected by reefs, extend from the shore at 2 miles south-eastward of the cape, 4 miles in a South direction. North Pasco islet is 242 feet high and South Pasco 36 feet. See chart, No. 1,695a. 560 EASTERN ENTRANCE OF BASS STRAIT. [Chap. VII. Neither Marshall bay nor Pasco islets give any protection in westerly winds. Tides. — At Roden island it is high water, fall and change, at 10 h. 7 m.; springs rise 10 feet, neaps 7 to 8 feet, neaps range about 5 feet. Frankland rock, W. J S. 4J miles from cape Frankland, is a double rock awash at half tide, with 18 to 23 fathoms close about it, except on its east side, where a bank of not less than 8 fathoms extends half a mile. Settlement point is hilly, having a small reef on its south side, and a cluster of islets and rocks extending a quarter to IJ miles south-west from it, with 6 and 4 fathoms betAveen the islets and the point. The west coast of Flinders island, from- Settlement point, curves E. by S. 1^ S. 2 miles to a projection, between which and Long point, south-east 4| miles from it, is a bay 1^ miles deep, with mountainous land behind it ; the highest summit being the Sugarloaf , which bears East, distant 6^ miles, from Settlement point, and is 1,472 feet high. HUMMOCK ISLAND, the north point of which lies W. by S. 3| miles from Settlement point, is 5| miles long, N. by E. and S. by W., and is one mile broad at either end, between which it is only half a mile across. Its two highest hills are on its northern and southern ends, the former being 483 and the latter 570 feet high. From the north point a reef stretches three-quarters of a mile to the northward, and this reef continues to the east point of the island, the 5-fathoms line being about 4 cables off shore. Shoal water extends three-quarters of a mile southward from the east point, and there is a rock dry at low water, S. by W. 3 cables from the point ; along the island from the east point to the Koh-i-noor rock, there is then deep water to a quarter of a mile off shore. AncllOrag*e. — There is good anchorage in 6 fathoms water, on the east side of Hummock island, at about three-quarters of a mile to the northward of the Koh-i-noor rock just noticed, and half a mile from the shore. It may be approached by passing round either the north or south end of the island. From the southward the island must not be hugged too closely . Sea chart, Xo. I,6y5« ; and plan, Hummock island anchoriige on No, 1,694., scale m = 1*0 inch. Chap. VII.] HUMMOCK ISLAND.— LONG POINT. 561 as the Koh-i-noor rock, which is awash at low water, lies about one-third of a mile off shore. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at the anchorage, Hummock island, at 10 h. 30 m. ; springs rise 10 feet. Passage islets are three in number, lying between S.E. by S. a mile, and South 1^ miles from the south point of Hummock island : they lie in line, N.N.E. ^ E. and S.S.W. ^ W.; the southernmost and largest islet being 3 cables in extent. The reef on which these islets are situated extends nearly a quarter of a mile northward from the north-eastern islet, between which and the south point of Hummock island is a safe passage half a mile wide. Myrmidon rock, on Avhich there is 9 feet at low- water springs, lies 1| miles W. by S. J S. from the north point of Hummock island ; it is of small extent, and there is deep water between it and the island. Swires patch, on which there are 5 fathoms at low- water springs, lies 2| miles N.W. by W. | W. from the south point of Hummock island, and irregular soundings extend 1^ miles to the northward and north-westward of it. Long* point, which has a rock awash close off it, is a peninsula stretching about 1^- miles southward from the line of coast, from which it is nearly separated by a shallow inlet having a narrow entrance, with a small islet close to its eastern point, and another on the west side of the inlet. Between Long point and another projection 2J miles to the eastward of it, the bight is full of shoal patches, which prevent a near approach to the fresh water close to the shore, at three-quarters of a mile to the northward of the east point of the bight. From the east point of the bight, just noticed, the west coast of Flinders island takes a S.S.E. direction 6 J miles to the north point of a hilly projection, extending IJ miles N. by W. ^ W. and S. by E. I E., and one mile from the line of coast. Between 2 and 3 miles northward of the point is a slight projection of the coast, close behind which is a fresh-water swamp. The south-west point of Flinders island lies S.E. by S. 1 J miles from the south extreme of the hilly projection just described, and there is a small bight on either side of it. See charts, No. 1,694 and No. 1,696a. SO 11712 2 N 562 EASTERN ENTRANCE OP BASS STRAIT. [Chap. VII. Strzelecki peaks. — At N. by E. 3 miles from the south-west point of Flinders island, Strzelecki peaks, the highest mountains on the island, rise to the height of 2,550 feet. Reef isles are four in number, with several rocks above water, connected by reefs extending from 3 miles westward to 4| miles S.W. by S. from Long point. Chalky island, 79 feet high, the northern, is three-quarters of a mile long, north and south, and is enclosed by rocky shoals ; the island should not be approached on its west side, within a mile in 11 fathoms water. The other three, which are small islets, lie respectively S.E. by E. 2 miles, S. by E. J E. 2 miles, and S. J E. 2^ miles from the northern island, and are connected by a narrow continuous reef, extending westward and south-westward from the eastern to the western, and southern islets. Another small island, Isabella, lies South 1| miles from Long point, between which and Reef isles there are 4 and 5 fathoms water ; the depth decreases northward to 2 fathoms abreast of Long point. Between this island and the coast eastward of it, the space has been little sounded, but there are only 6 to 9 feet water at half a mile and three-quarters of a mile from the shore. Sounding's. — There is a clear channel nearly 2 miles wide, with 8 to 10 fathoms water, between the north end of Hummock island and the islets off Settlement point ; and another 5 miles wide between the island and Reef islets ; the soundings gradually increasing to the southward, to 21 fathoms between Passage islets and the southern Reef islet. Tidal streams. — The tidal streams in this channel follow nearly the trend of Hummock island, the flood setting to the southward, three-quarters of a knot, and the ebb to the northward, half a knot. Kangaroo island, the centre of which lies S. by E. ^ E. 5 miles from the summit of Chalky island, is of a crescent form, with its points to the southward and south-eastward, each having a reef, projecting a short distance from it. This island is 1^ miles long N.E. and S.W., and one-third of a mile broad at the centre. Reefs See charts, No. 1,694 and No. 1,695«. 'Chap. VII.] CHALKY ISLAND. — CHAPPELL ISLANDS. 563 extend 2 and 3 cables from its north-west side and north-east point, and for a mile to the northward. Allchorag*e. — There is anchorage in 7 fathoms water, off the north-east end of this island. Green island, of which the centre lies E. J N. 3 miles from the north-east point of Kangaroo island, is IJ miles long, north and :south, and one-third of a mile broad at the centre, where it rises to a hill. A cluster of islets extends nearly a mile northward from the north end of the island. There is deep water close round the rocks which skirt the southern half of Green island, but there are only 2^ to IJ fathoms along the southern edge of a shoal which connects the island with the mainland. AncllOrag*e. — There is anchorage in 4 fathoms water, at about one-third of a mile off the south-east side of the island. Soundings. — There are 7 to 13 fathoms water between Kangaroo and Green islands, from whence the depth gradually decreases northward, to 4 and 5 fathoms between the eastern Reef islet and Isabella island. ^ CHAPPELL ISLANDS are three in number, with numerous islets and rocks, lying S.W. by W. | W. 5 to 1 2 miles from the south- west point of Flinders island. GOOSE ISLE, the westernmost of the group, lies S.W. by W. | W. 12 miles from the south-west point of Flinders island, it is 1^ miles long, N.N.W. and S.S.E., and half a mile broad, with an islet about a quarter of mile in extent, surrounded by a reef, close off its north-west extreme. The island is 54 feet high at its highest and northern part and consists of granite boulders with a shallow covering of soil in' the hollows where a few sheep are grazed. There are 6 fathoms water close to the south point, and 7 to 9 fathoms near the east side of Goose isle. Anchorage may be obtained in 9 to 11 fathoms, sand, to the eastward of Goose island, with the northernmost of the lighthouse- keepers' dwellings in line with the flagstaff ; and Hummock island open of the north-east point of Goose island. This anchorage is good See charts, No. 1,694, No. 1,695«, and No. 1,70G Banks strait, scale m = 0-5 inch. SO 11712 2 N 2 564 EASTERN ENTRANCE OP BASS STRAIT. [Chap. VII. during westerly winds, but being so close to the shore, is unsafe,, should the wind shift to the south-east. Tides and tidal streams. — It is. high water, full and change^ at Goose island at lOh. 48m., springs rise 9 feet. The flood stream sets to the N.W., the ebb to the S.E., at an average rate of one knot. LIGHT. — The lighthouse on Goose isle, a quarter of a mile from its south point, is 74 feet high, painted white ; it exhibits at 100 feet above the sea, a fixed white light, visible between the bearings of S. 28° E. through north and N. 50° W., which may be seen from the distance of 14 miles in clear weather. To the eastward of these bearings the light is frequently eclipsed by intervening islands. Badg'er island, the central and largest of the Chappell islands,, is flat, about 4 miles in extent, 109 feet high at its N.E. point, and sparsely covered with timber. A rocky spit with 12 feet upon it extends nearly 1^ miles to the northward of its north-west extreme. The north-west and north-east points lie nearly E. by N., the former 2 miles, and the latter 4| miles from the north point of Goose isle.. From the north-west point the west side of Badger island trends- South three-quarters of a mile, and thence, forming a bay half a mile in depth, S.S.E. IJ miles to Unicorn point, the south-west point of the island, from whence the south and east coasts of the island sweep, round 4 miles to its north-east point. Over Unicorn point, there is a conspicuous granite boulder. The north side forms a bay extending from the north-east point W. \ S. \\ miles, and having 9 to 3 fathoms- across its entrance. The western point of this bay has a reef pro- jecting nearly two-thirds of a mile northward from it, between which and the north-west point of the island is a projecting point fringed by a reef. At a quarter of a mile eastward of the east point of Badger island is Little Badger island, 17 feet high, and at \\ miles^ south-eastward of the south-east point of Badger island is Beagle island. Anchorage. — Eastward of Badger island, good anchorage may be obtained in about 7 fathoms, sandy bottom, with Little Badger- island in line with the summit of Mount Chappell island. The channel between Goose and Badger islands is If miles wide,, and has 7 to 19 fathoms water in it. See chart, No. 1,706. ■Chap. VII.] CHAPPELL ISLANDS. 565 Boxen island and Double rock. — Boxen island, 22 feet high, lies S.E. by E. i E. 6 miles from Goose island lighthouse, having rocks and foul ground all round it, but principally on its west and north sides, where they extend half a mile. Double rock, 34 feet high, lies one mile N.W. J N. from Boxen island. Three cables from Double rock in a north-westerly direction is a rock, dry at low- water springs. Foul ground extends a quarter of a mile to the south-east of Double rock, and there is only a very narrow channel with not more than 4 fathoms between it and Boxen island. Beagle Island, N.N.E. ^ E. nearly 2 miles from Double rock, is 21 feet high, with a reef for a quarter of a mile off its western side. A 3^ fathoms bank extends off its north side for half a mile, on which are several rocks above water ; and there is a sunken rock a quarter of a mile to the southward of it. Rocllfort rock. — Nearly midway between Double rock and Beagle island lies Rochf ort or Lucy rock with 6 feet water over it, on which the sea breaks in westerly winds during low tides. Mount Chappell island, 1^ miles in length N. ^ B. and S. ^ W., and three-quarters of a mile in breadth, lies one mile north-eastward of Badger island, and rises to a rounded summit 653 feet high. To the westward, and extending northward for 2^ miles and north-eastward for half a mile of this island there are several groups of rocks 15 to 25 feet high, the highest bearing N.W. by N. distant 1;^ miles from the north end of the island ; a shoal patch with 4J fathoms water on it, which breaks in heavy westerly weather, lies IJ miles N.E. by E. from the north-east end of the island ; and in the centre of the channel between Mount Chappell and Badger islands is a rock which dries 3 feet at low water. Mount Chappell island is the favourite breed- ing place of the mutton bird or sooty petrel, and during the season above 200 men, women, and children are employed in salting the young birds (which form an article of diet amongst the poorer population in Tasmania) and collecting their oil, which is used for softening leather, lubricating machinery, and other purposes. The birds deposit their -eggs about the 25th, 26th, and two or three following days of Novem- ber. The season for obtaining the young birds and oil is from January to March. Soutli coast of Flinders island.— From the south-west point of Flinders island the coast trends south-easterly 1^ miles, E.S.E. See chart, No. 1,706. 566 EASTERN ENTRANCE OP BASS STRAIT. [Chap. VII. 2J miles, East 1^ miles, and N.E. by E. 31 miles to Badger corner,, and is formed by numerous small sandy bays and sharp projecting points, the spurs from Strzelecki peaks generally extending tO' the points. The dangers near this part of Flinders island are Entrance rock with 2 feet water, lying S. by W. | W. 1^ miles from the south point of the hilly projection ; a rock with 12 feet, nearer the point ; a bank with 12 feet, lying a mile off S.W. point ; and a shoal of 9 feet, extending to a distance of half a mile from the shore. Badgrer corner is a small cove in the western corner of a ])ay, which extends from the south-east point of the cove E.N.E. 4 miles, and is If miles deep. This bay is mostly occupied by small islands and shoals, with generally very shallow water between, them, and is fronted by the two Dog isles. Between the Little Dog isle and Badger corner there is a group of rocks covered at high water, to the westward of which is a narrow channel, with 12 feet water, leading to the anchorage for small vessels in Badger corner ; the channel to the eastward of these rocks is blind. Dogr isles are situated between Badger corner and the S.E.. point of Flinders island. Little Dog isle, about half a mile across and 118 feet high, lies E. by S. 6 cables from the S.E. point of Badger corner. Shoal water extends from it in a south-westerly direction 1 J miles ; a rock 3 feet high lies 2 cables from its south extreme ; and another 1^ cables from its north-west extreme. Other rocks, with numerous sand-banks, lie to the northv/ard, and a sandy flat, nearly dry at low water, extends half a mile to the north-eastward. Dog isle, nearly one mile from Little Dog isle, is about If miles- in extent, having a flat-topped, conspicuous hill 254 feet high at its north-west point ; there is a shoal sandy bay eastward of the south-west point of the isle, dry at low water except near the centre, where there is a depth of 3 feet ; at the head of this bay there is a house occupied by the lessee of the island, off which small vessels anchor. At 6 cables E.S.E. of the south-west point is a rock 2 feet above high water, from which a sand-bank extends- nearly half a mile to the eastward, parallel to and at a distance See chart, No. 1, 70 J. Chap. VII.] FLINDERS ISLAND, SOUTH AND EAST COASTS. 567 of a quarter of a mile from the south coast of the island. Three- quarters of a mile North of Dog isle is Little Green island, and one mile N.E. of the north-east point of the isle is a sandy point of Flinders island, from which the coast trends E.N.E. and north- easterly for 3 miles to the south-east extreme of Flinders island, thence in a northerly direction to the mouth of a lagoon extending above 2 miles to the north-westward, and nearly 2 miles to the south-westward from its mouth. From the north-east point of Dog isle, shoal water extends almost to the nearest point of Flinders island. In the depth of the bay north of Dog isles there is a small river named Samphire river. Midway betw^een Dog and Vansittart islands is a rocky islet, with shoal water extending more than a quarter of a mile to the northward ; the remainder of the space between Dog, Vansittart, and Flinders islands is clear of danger, with 6 to 25 fathoms water. The East coast of Flinders island is low and sandy ; from North point it trends in a south-easterly direction for a distance of 18 miles, and then curves to the eastward for about 5 miles, there forming a junction with Babel island in a low sandy spit. South of Babel island the coast runs S. by E. for a distance of 15 miles to the northern side of Franklin sound. Aspect. — Quoin hill, S. by W. 3J miles from North point, rises to the height of 810 feet ; but there are no conspicuous objects along this coast between this hill and the Patriarchs, three remarkable peaks, rising from the low sandy land behind the east point of the island, and separated from the mountainous ranges to the westward by a low sandy plain. The north-east and highest of the Patriarchs bears S.E. ^ E., distant 19 miles from North point, is 772 feet high, and has a very sharp conspicuous appearance when seen from the south-east. Beag'le spit. — At about 3J miles to the south east of North point a dangerous sandy spit stretches out from the shore 5^ miles in an east-north-east direction, with only 9 feet water on a patch at 1| miles within its extremity, where the depth is 18 feet : from, the east extreme of this spit North point bears W. J N., distant 7| miles. Soundings. — There are soundings in 10 to 18 fathoms between See charts, No. 1,706 and No. 1,695«. 538 EASTERN ENTRANCE OF BASS STRAIT. [Chap. VII. the Sisters and the end of the spit, off which there are 10 to 8 fathoms ; and from 7 fathoms at two-thirds of a mile S.E. of it, there are regular soundings in 12 and 13 fathoms to Babel isles, off the east point of the island. At 3 miles East of East Sister island there are 18 fathoms, thence decreasing to 12 and increasing again to 22 fathoms at 3 miles N.E. of Babel isles, BABEL ISLES were so named by Captain Flinders from thu discordant and various notes of the innumerable birds on them. The principal isle, situated S.E. by E. ^ E., 19 miles distant from North point, Flinders island, is about 1^ miles in extent east and west, and the same distance north and south. The summit of this isle is a flat • topped wooded peak, 656 feet high ; and near its western end there is a remarkable pyramidal hill, 446 feet high. Two islets lie close to the eastern side of the principal isle, the northern and larger islet is 105 feet high, and the southern islet 55 feet high. Dangers. — The bay southward of Babel isles is free from dangers : in that to the northward are several small rocks, but they all show above water ; the outermost rock lies N.W. by W., distant 1:^ miles, from the north-western point of the principal Babel isle, and is 4 feet high; another rock, awash at high water springs, lies N.W. by W. distant half a mile from that point. Three miles westward of the principal Babel isle, and about one mile from the beach, are two small groups of rocks. Ancliorag'e. — With westerly winds, there is anchorage on a sandy bottom, either northward or southward of the sandy spit connecting the principal Babel isle with Flinders island. The soundings are regular, decreasing gradually to 3 fathoms close to the beach. With winds eastward of North or South, no vessel should anchor in this neighbourhood. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, at the Babel isles, at 10 h. 5 m. ; springs rise 7 feet. Tidal streams. — North of Babel isles the flood sets to the north- ward and ebb to the southward, parallel to the coast, and generally with regularity, especially near the shore. South of Babel isles the tidal streams are weak and irregular. Sea chart, No. 1,695a. Chap. VII.] BABEL ISLES. — FRANKLIN SOUND. 569 Minnie Garmicliael shoal.— This shoal, off the east coast of Flinders island, on which the British barque Minnie Carmichael is stated to have struck, has an estimated depth of 3^ fathoms, and lies with cape Barren bearing S. J E., and Babel island summit W. by N., distant 10 miles. Close southward of this position no bottom could be obtained at 21 fathoms. This shoal was searched for by H.M. surveying vessel Flying Fish in 1887, under favourable circumstances with regard to weather, but no indication of shallow water could be found in its assigned position. Rock. — A rock, reported by the INIaster of the New South Wales pilot steam-vessel Captain Cook, also by the Master of the barque Woollahra, and on which the barque Lawrence was wrecked in 18C9, is stated to be situated with cape Barren bearing S. J E., distant 16 to» 18 miles. This rock was searched for unsuccessfully by H.M. survey- ing vessel Dart in 1888, but a thorough examination could not be made of the locality. Caution. — Seeing the doubtful nature of the above, as also that several vessels are reported to have been wrecked on detached dangers off the east coast of Flinders island, when seeking shelter from westerly gales, mariners are cautioned accordingly. FRANKLIN SOUND, 4 miles wide, between Flinders and Barren islands, is fronted to the westward by the Chappell islands ; the only navigable channel into this sound from the westward is between Flinders island and the Oyster rocks. A bar with 3^ to 5 fathoms extends across its entrance ; the summit of Yansittart island in line with the south point of Flinders island bearing E. by N. (N. 79° E.) leads over the bar in 4 J fathoms water. A quarter of a ftiile southward of this leading mark on the bar there is 14 feet water, at half a mile south 10 feet ; and on the north side at a quarter of a mile distance 12 feet. After crossing the bar the only danger to be avoided is a sand-bank with patches of 8 and 11 feet, parallel to and half a mile northward of East Anderson isle. At this part of the sound the channel is divided into three arms, the northern running north-eastward as far as Little Dog isle and Badger corner, the middle eastward to the south end of Dog isle narrowing there to a bar of 3J fathoms, which separates it from the main channel of the sound ; and the southern or main to See charts, No. 1,695a and No. 1,706. 570 EASTERN ENTRANCE OF BASS STRAIT. [Chap. VII. the south-eastward round the rocks off East Anderson isle towards- Barren island, thence to the north-eastward maintaining a broad channel up to the passage between Dog and Vansittart islands. South of East Anderson isle a branch of the main arm runs west- ward, and good anchorage may be obtained in 4i or 5 fathoms water,, near the south side of the isle. The south-west entrance to Franklin sound is blocked by numerous rocks and banks, and cannot be navigated without danger. Oyster rocks are two rocks a quarter of a mile apart, N.E. and S.W. from each other, the northern rock, 35 feet high, lies W.N.W. 2 miles from the summit of West Anderson isle ; the north side of this rock is bold ; from these rocks a sand-bank, dry in some parts, extendi Ih miles in a westerly and southerly direction, thence easterly to the west coast of West Anderson isle. West Anderson isle, 211 feet high, lies S. by W. 2 miles from the south point of Flinders island ; this isle was originally named Woody island, but every particle of timber has been cut down or burnt, nearly its only vegetation being a coarse grass which supports a few cattle and sheep. The island is about one mile long N.N.E, and S.S.W., and two-thirds of a mile broad. One cable North of West Anderson isle is an islet the north side of which is bold ; this islet is connected with West Anderson isle at low water by a sand-bank having on it a smaller islet. The south side of West Anderson isle is foul to a distance of three-quarters of a mile, thence a narrow shoal with 2 to 18 feet water extends westward to a distance of 3 miles. East Anderson isle, known locally as Tin Kettle, is 1^ miles long in an east and west direction, and a quarter to a half a mile broad. Off its east point four rocks, only a few feet above high water, exten(i a quarter of a mile in a northerly direction, and 1^ cables north-east- ward of the outer rock is a rock which dries 2 feet at low water. About these rocks and extending for three-quarters of a mile to the eastward of the east point is a shoal bank. At IJ miles N.E. of the east point is the west extreme of a sand-bank with 15 feet water ; this bank extends eastward towards the south end of Dog isle and has from 2 to 18 feet water on it. A fiat, in some places dry, connects East and West Anderson isles, which are distant from each other three-quarters of a mile. See chart, No. 1,706. Chap. VII.] BARREN ISLAND. 571 Long island is situated at the south-west entrance of Franklin sound and E. by S. J S. 4| miles from Badger island ; it is^ 2i miles long, N.E. by E. and S.W. by W., and one-quarter to three-quarters of a mile broad, and is bordered with rocks ; on its northern part, 165 feet high, there is a conspicuous granite boulder,, and near its western extreme, 9(S feet high, there is another granite boulder. Doughboy Island is small, and lies N.E. J E. IJ miles from Long island ; the soundings between this island and Ned point are very irregular. BARREN ISLAND, the second in size of the Furneaux group,, contains about 110,000 acres, and extends from cape Sir John, its west point, E. | N. 22^ miles to cape Barren, its east point, and is 12 miles broad between its north and south points. The island is high, rocky, and irregular, with some rounded hills near its north- west coast. There is also a remarkable peak on the south-east part of the island. North-west coast of Barren island.— Ned point, E. by N. |^ N. 1^ miles from Doughboy island, projects nearly half a mile from the coast line, having to the eastward a small bay named Munro bay, used by small vessels. Several rocks extend from the point in a N.N.W. direction, and at a distance of half a mile there is a rocky islet lying N.E. and S.W. The coast from Ned point trends south-westerly 4 miles to Franklin village, the population of which, in 1877, amounted to, Europeans 132, and half-castes 106. Their principal occupation is salting the mutton-bird and procuring^ the oil. North coast of Barren island.—From Ned point, the coast trends in an easterly direction 5 miles to Lee river, thence in a. northerly direction 2 miles to Apple Orchard point ; from which three small islets extend half a mile in a north-westerly direction,, affording good shelter to the eastward of them, but the tidal streams. run very strong in different directions, and an anchor invariably comes up foul. Eastward of Ned point for 3 miles, as well as north- eastward along the south coast of East Anderson island there is deep water, but at 2 miles N.E. by E. from Ned point is the west tail of a See chart, No. 1,700. 572 EASTERN ENTRANCE OF BASS STRAIT. [Chap. VTI. large flat, which extends the whole distance to Apple Orchard point, and inshore to Lee river. Mount Munro, 2,348 feet high, situated S.E. | E. 2^ miles from Ned point, has a rounded summit densely timbered ; between it and the coast are ranges, sterile in appearance, composed chiefly of granite. Puncheon point. — From Apple Orchard point the coast trends E. I S. 1^ miles to Dover point ; E.S.E. 1;^ miles to Dover river, and N.E. 4 miles to Puncheon point, the north point of Barren island ; several islands and rocks surrounded with sandy flats lie westward and south-westward of this point over a space of more than a mile. Vansittart island, locally known as Gun-carriage, the south point of which lies W. by S. | S. one mile from Puncheon point, is 2i miles long, N.N.W. and S.S.E., and If miles broad at its southern end, and almost connected with Puncheon point at low water ; it rises at its centre to a broad summit 552 feet high, from which a spur extends to its south-west point. On the west side there is a sandy bay, where the owner of the island resides. To the southward of a line from Apple Orchard point to the south- west point of Vansittart island, there are numerous shoals dry at low water. The Eastern entrance to Franklin sound lies between sand- banks extending from the south-east point of Flinders island and •others extending from Vansittart island ; these banks have been named Vansittart shoals. The channels between them are said to shift with every strong wind. The best and probably the most permanent channel was found to have a depth of 4 fathoms. The shifting channel along the coast of Flinders island is very narrow. Northerly and north-easterly winds are said to have the greatest effect in shifting the Vansittart shoals. The sea breaks heavily in easterly weather. TIDAL STREAMS.— At the eastern entrance of Franklin «ound the flood streams meet', one coming from the N.N.E., and the other from S.E. The flood stream sets to the westward through Franklin sound, and from thence about W.N.W. on the north side, and W.S.W. on the south side of Chappell islands ; and the ebb *Sk6 chart, No. 1,706. Chap. VII.] BARREN ISLAND. 573 in the contrary direction. In the north channel the streams run 2 to 2h knots. West coast of Barren island. — The west coast is rock- bound, and trends 2 miles in a S. by E. direction, from a point one mile to the southward of the west extreme of Long island to cape Sir John. This coast is foul to the distance in places of about half a mile from it. At one mile from the coast, and 2 miles from the south-west point of Long island is a rock 7 feet high, from which foul ground extends nearly half a mile in north-westerly and south-westerly directions. Cape Sir Jolin, the south-west extreme of Barren island, has three off-lying rocks above water, situated respectively S.W. ^ W. three-quarters of a mile, S.E. ^ S. three-quarters of a mile, and E. by S. half a mile from the cape. One mile to the northward of cape Sir John is a conspicuous round-topped hill 531 feet high. The coast from cape Sir John, recedes to the north-eastward^ forming a bay, Thunder and Lightning bay, nearly a mile deep, and 1:J- miles wide. An islet 58 feet high, nearly connected with the shore, lies a quarter of a mile south-eastward of the east entrance point of Thunder and Lightning bay. East of this islet is another small bay, the south point of which lies E. by S. three-quarters of a mile from the islet, and has numerous boulders lying off it to a distance of a quarter of a mile ; thence the coast trends south- easterly half a mile, and easterly 2 miles to a point, 3 cables to the southward of w^hich lies Malms rock, dry at low water. The latter part has numerous rocks off it to a distance of a quarter of a mile. Wombat point, locally known as Rocky head, lies E. i N. 2^ miles from the point north of Malms rock ; near the extremity of Wombat point is a small granite island 74 feet high, 1^ cables. South, and 1^ cables East of which there is a rock uncovering at one- third ebb, and to the south-westward at three-quarters of a mile is a sand-bank with 2^ fathoms water. Sloping" point bears E. ^ N. 4 miles from Wombat point - between these points is a shoal bay having near its centre an island about 20 feet high, named Battery island. A rock awash at low Sra chart, No. 1,706. 574 EASTERN ENTRANCE OF BASS STRAIT. [Chap. VII. water lies one cable southward of Sloping point, and another above water lies nearer the shore. Middle bank is a long, narrow shoal, fronting the bay just noticed, the east end of which in 3 fathoms lies S.W. by W. half a mile from Sloping point ; whence it extends W.S.W. 2 miles, with as little as 3 feet on the shoalest part. KENT BAY extends from Sloping point E. ^ S. 5^ miles to Passage point, the south point of Barren island, and is 3 miles deep ; it is nearly filled with shoals, and the only anchorage is in 11 fathoms water, 3 cables from the shore, IJ miles N.E, by E. from Sloping point. Abreast this anchorage is the most convenient place for watering. From Sloping point the north-western shore trends l^.E. ^ N. 3 miles to a small point, at E. by N. | N. three-quarters of a mile from which, a projection of the northern shore divides the Tiead of the bay into two bights. A narrow shoal upwards of 2 miles long in an E. J S. and W. ^ N. direction, with from 3 to 18 feet water •on it, lies across the mouth of the bay ; its west end bearing lE.N.E. about 1| miles from Sloping point. There is a clear channel half a mile wide between the south edge of this shoal and the ^Vfathoms edge of the bank to the southward. Sloop rock, N.E. ^ E. nearly 2^ miles from Sloping point, is situated on a reef of rocks. Sloop rock is 12 feet high, and lies .about 4 cables from the west shore of Kent bay. Andioragre. — Small vessels may anchor between Sloop rock and the shore in 3 to 6 fathoms. Several vessels may here lie at anchor in 4 or 5 fathoms, sheltered from all winds. From this anchorage the soundings decrease to one fathom at three-quarters of a mile northward of Sloop rock ; and between the rock and the head of the bay, there are irregular soundings of 4 to 2 fathoms. The eastern bight of Kent bay — where there was a run of fresh water — is filled by a shoal flat, which extends in patches along the ■eastern shore, nearly to Passage point. East coast of Barren island. — From Puncheon point the coast trends S.E. by E. J E., 7J miles, with several rocky points and intermediate sandy bays, to Harley point, off which several rocks above and below water extend E.S.E. nearly half a mile, thence at a See chart, No. 1,706. Ohap. VII.] BARREN ISLAND. 575 distance of nearly a mile S.E. by E. J E. is Flat rock 3 feet high, with a few sunken rocks extending to the north-westward. Harley point is nearly separated from the land behind by a lagoon. There are lagoons behind the beach, at intervals for 3J miles to the south- east of Puncheon point, and at 2 miles to the north-west of Harley point, is an inlet barred across at its entrance. Cape Barren, the east point of Barren island, S.E. by S. 3| miles from Harley point, is a rounded rocky point having numerous hillocks over it ; at three-quarters of a mile East of the cape lies a rocky islet 40 feet high, named Gull islet ; and at one mile East is Gull rock 12 feet high, with numerous other rocks above and below water extending nearly half a mile in a northerly direction. Midway between cape Barren and Gull islet is a sunken rocky patch with 14 feet over it. There are 17 fathoms water at half a mile to the eastward of Gull islet ; but there are strong tide ripples near the reef. At IJ miles S.E. by E. from cape Barren there is a patch with '6^ to 8 fathoms water on it. Between Harley point and cape Barren, the coast forms a double bay. Cone point, so named from two conspicuous, cone-shaped granite rocks, lies S.W. J S. 5 miles from cape Barren, with two bays between, having sandy beaches in their depths. The point dividing the bays has a conspicuous sand-patch over it. The north-eastern bay extends 3 miles from cape Barren, and is •one mile deep. The south-western bay is two-thirds of a mile deep, with a lagoon extending IJ miles along the back of the beach, at about half a mile from it. Soundings. — From 7 fathoms, at 2 miles eastward of Puncheon point the soundings increase to 14 fathoms at IJ miles off Harley point, and 17 fathoms at IJ miles off cape Barren ; thence to about .3 milesjeastward of Cone point there are 13 to 17 fathoms. Passag'e point, the south extremity of Barren island, lies W. by S. ^ S., 2 miles from Cone point, having a bay with a steep sandy beach lying between ; the bay is nearly one mile deep, with 7 to 9|fathoms water in it. Behind the sandy beach on the west side -of|this^bay is a lagoon, the water in which is of a red colour and a See chart, No. 1,70G. 576 EASTERN ENTRANCE OF BASS STRAIT. [Chap. VII.. little brackish. On the west side of Passage point there are several smaller ponds, which contain good water. Mount Kerford, 1,644 feet high, is the highest peak of the range which rises from the various points on the south-east coast of Barren island. The whole range is conspicuous from its barren and whitish appearance. ARMSTRONG CHANNEL, between Barren and Clarke islands, is seldom used owing to the numerous banks and strong tidal streams in it. The passage of Armstrong channel between Barren island and Preservation isle is neither so wide nor so straight as that along the coast of Clarke island. At the west entrance, the passage between Barren island and Preservation isle is about half a mile wide ; E.N.E. nearly 1^ miles from the north point of Preserva-^ tion isle, lies Malms rock, between which and Wombat point, and extending a mile from the shore, is a shoal bank interspersed with rocks, above and below water. The passage between Preservation isle and Clarke island is nearly 2 miles wide ; the only dangers in the entrance of this passage are. Eclipse rock off the west point of Clarke island {see page 579), a rock awash a quarter of a mile off the- same point, and the 2-fathoms rock to the south-east of Rum islet ; the better side of the channel is along the coast of Clarke island ; care,, however, is necessary to give the coast north of Clarke hill a berth of half a mile, and again to approach the next point, the western point of Kangaroo bay, to avoid the Middle bank, with 3 feet upon it,, which lies in mid-channel. Westward of Seal point, the north-east extreme of Clarke island, lies- Kangaroo bay, one mile deep, having a narrow channel leading into it along the western shore, and anchorage may be obtained in the- centre of the bay in 3 or 3| fathoms ; the remaining portion of the bay is shoal. From the western point of Kangaroo bay, Armstrong channel runs, in the direction of Sloping point, between which and Seal point there- is a depth of 41 fathoms in mid-channel. From half a mile N.E. of Seal rocks {see page 577), on the north- west side of Seal point, several sand-banks, dry at low water, anct shoals extend to Forsyth isle. Armstrong channel continues north of these shoals, a narrow shoal sand-bank occupying a central position, and terminates in a passage 4 cables wide between Forsyth iSi'tf chart, No. 1,706. Chap. VII.] ARMSTRONG CHANNEL. 577 and Passage isles. A smaller passage exists between Passage isle and Passage point, but it should only be used in case of necessity as the tidal streams run at the rate of 5 or 6 knots, and its centre is occupied by a half-tide rock. It should be entered with the flood stream, keeping near Passage point. Night islet, 46 feet high, lies S.E. by E. 14J miles from Goose island lighthouse. Dry and sunken rocks, nearly half a mile in extent, lie half a mile from it in a north-easterly direction ; and Little Night islet lies half a mile in a S. by E. direction. Preservation isle, 84 feet high, in the west entrance of Arm- strong channel, is of granite formation, If miles long in a north-west and south-east direction, and half a mile across its broadest part. Many small islets and rocks extend half a mile from its north-west extreme, and from its east side a shoal spit, partially dry at low- water spring tides, extends to a distance of 1^ miles. Rum islet, close to the south point of Preservation isle, is about a quarter of a mile in extent ; it has a reef projecting a short distance from its southern end, and is joined to Preservation isle by a reef of dry and covered rocks, which, together with the islet, protects Hamilton road from the south-westward. A rock with 2 fathoms water on it. East 4 cables from the south point of Rum islet, lies in the track of vessels bound into Hamilton road. Hamilton road, eastward of the south-east point of Preservation isle, affords anchorage in 4 fathoms water, 3 cables from the point ; in this vicinity there are patches of 3 fathoms. After a continuance of heavy gales from the westward a long swell rolls round the south point of Rum islet, and the swell does not gradually increase but sets in suddenly ; which on one occasion compelled the Victoria surveying vessel to get under weigh and run to Kent bay for shelter. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Preservation isle at lOh. 36m. ; springs rise from 5 to 7 feet. Seal rocks are a cluster of dry (8 feet high) and sunken rocks on a shoal projecting to the north-west about one-third of a mile from Seal point, the north-east point of Clarke island, leaving a channel two-thirds of a mile wide between them and Sloping point. Sue chart, No. 1 ,706. so 11712 2 578 EASTERN ENTRANCE OF BASS STRAIT. [Chap. VII. Forsyth isle is 1^ miles long, north and south, and one-third of a mile broad. The bank which forms the southern side of Arm- strong channel extends IJ miles northward of Forsyth isle, thence in a westerly direction towards Sloping point ; and numerous banks and channels exist between Forsyth isle and Clarke island. A sand- bank extends 3 cables from the east side of Forsyth isle, and a shoal of 3^ fathoms extends nearly a mile to the eastward of the south-east point, ancl almost unites with another shoal extending S.W. from the south point of Passage isle. At one mile S.W. | S. from the south- west point of Forsyth isle lies a rock awash at half-tide. In the vicinity of the shoal water the sea breaks heavily. Passage isle, 177 feet high, lies 3 cables from Passage point ; it is 1| miles long N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., and about half a mile broad. At one cable from its north-east point, and nearly in mid-channel, is a rock dry at low water, and 2 cables North of its north point are several rocks above water. A few rocks above water extend one cable off the south point, and rocks having less than 6 feet water extend a quarter of a mile S.E. from the south-east extreme. Off the western side a sand-bank extends 4 cables from the shore, except off the north-west point, which is steep-to. Armstrong channel.— Remarks.— Although there are many shoals of sand in, as well as on each side of, the wider parts of Armstrong channel, a passage of sufficient width and depth is swept out by the tidal streams for vessels to go through. The bottom is either rocky or sandy ; rocky in the deep and narrow parts, and sandy in the bights and shoaler places. A careful study of the chart, with a good look-out, and attention to the lead are the safest and best guides for this channel. Water. — Good fresh water may be collected at certain seasons in email pools near the south-eastern end of Preservation isle ; but that which drains from the rocks appears to possess some pernicious qualities. Small pools or runs of water are to be found almost everywhere under the high parts of Barren island, and it is probable there may be some on Clarke island. Birds. — Preservation isle and the adjacent rocky islets are visited by numerous sea birds, including the cape Barren goose,* a few black * Cereopsis Novae Hollandiae ; this bird is only known in Australia. See chart, No. 1.706. CJhap. VII.] CLARKE ISLAND. 579 swans, and great numbers of the sooty petrel ; which latter burrow in the ground like rabbits, and when skinned and smoked, are passable food. Clarke island, the southern of the Furneaux group, 8 mileg long, N.E. I N. and S.W. J S., and 6 miles across its south-western part, rises near its north-west coast to a peaked hill 676 feet high ; and to a broad-topped hill 525 feet high near its south-west extreme. The west point of Clarke island is rocky, and at half a mile irom the point in a westerly direction is the Eclipse rock with 11 feet over it, about which there is a confused sea. Sloping point open north of •Clarke island bearing N.E. | E. (N^ 53° E.), leads to the northward, and a conspicuous boulder on a hill 783 feet high, near the west end ■of Barren island, open west of Rum islet N.N.W. (N. 22° W.) leads to the westward of Eclipse rock. See page 576. Southward of the west point is a deep bay, which was formerly much used by coasting vessels, but cannot be recommended. A few scattered rocks lie off Look-out head (the south-west point of Clarke island) to the south-eastward an,d eastward ; the outer is distant 3 cables from the shore, and is 2 feet above high water. Between Look-out head and the south point of Clarke island, which lies E. by S. \ S. 2| miles from the head, the south-west coast of the island forms an exposed bay one mile deep, with reefs extending about one-third of a mile from the north-west and eastern shores of the bay. The south point of Clarke island is enclosed by a reef of sunken rocks, between which and Moriarty point, the south-east point of the island, is a small exposed bight. From the south point of Clarke island Swan isle lighthouse bears S. ^ W., 8 J miles. ' ) Moriarty point lies N.E. by E. | E. three-quarters of a mile from the south point, thence the east coast of Clarke island trends in a N. by E. direction for 7 miles to Seal point, its N.E. extreme. Moriarty bay, lying to the northward of Moriarty point, has bad holding ground, on a broken rocky bottom ; there is good landing in a corner of the bay, but the whole of this vicinity should be avoided. Look-out rock, 60 feet high, lies S.E. by E., 5 miles from Little .^Sf^e- chart, No, 1.70t>. SO 11712 2 2 580 EASTERN ENTRANCE OF BASS STRAIT. [Chap. VII. Night islet, and three-quarters of a mile W.N.W. from Look-out head, between which and Look-out rock is the Napper rock, awash at high water. A rock lies about a quarter of a mile N.W. by N. from Look-out rock. Moriarty rocks. — At 3| miles E. by N. from Moriarty point lies- the outer of two rocks, named Moriarty rocks from their proximity to the Moriarty bank ; the outer or S.E. rock is 20 feet high, and the N.W. rock, 25 feet high. At 2 miles N.W. by W. from Moriarty rocks are two rocks 20 and 15 feet high, with several smaller rocks above and below water near them. Moriarty banks. — The western of these banks extends in a S.W. by W. direction nearly 2^ miles from the highest Moriarty rock ; the least water upon it is one foot, but the general depth is about 9 feet. The eastern tail of the east bank lies E.S.E.. 2 J miles from the same rock ; the least water found on it was 16 feet : to the north-westward of the east bank is another bank,, the least water upon which is 15 feet. A fourth bank extends. in a N.E. by N. and S.W. by S. direction from the two rocks which lie N.W. by W. nearly 2 miles from the Moriarty rocks ; this bank,, which has a sunken rock at its north-easterly termination, is nearly 2^ miles long. Nearly midway between it and the shore is a half- tide rock. Caution. — The whole of the space included between the east coast of Clarke island, the Moriarty rocks, and Passage and Forsyth isles is. either foul ground, or the strong tidal streams cause such a race and heavy break as to make the place very dangerous. Clearing" marks. — Mount William, 714 feet high, near the- north-east coast of Tasmania, bearing S. by W. J W. (S. 14° W.) clears the eastern end of Moriarty banks ; and to pass to the southward of them, the south point of Clarke island must not be brought west of W. by N. (N. 79° W.) The soundings in Bass strait are tolerably regular, ranging from 30 to 48 fathoms, with generally 5 fathoms within a mile of its- shores. The bottom mostly consists of sand and shells in the north- western and greater portion, and more of mud, marl, and ooze in the south-eastern part of the strait. See chart, No. i;706. Ch&p. VII.] ANCHORAGES. 581 Eastward of Bass strait. — Between 35 fathoms at 20 miles eastward of the south extreme of Barren island, and 38 fathoms at about 40 miles north-eastward of the north point of Flinders island, the depths range from 20 to 42 fathoms, and thence the soundings deepen rapidly to more than 200 fathoms in the direction of Rame head and cape Howe. ANCHORAGES in BASS STRAIT, wlien going east- ward. — The most convenient places for anchoring in this strait, with foul winds, when going to the eastward, are : — 1st. Franklin road, under the north-west end of King island. 2nd. Port Phillip ; anchoring just within the entrance, on the south side. When a fair wind comes, a ship can get out of the port by means of the strong tidal streams. 3rd. Off the north-west extreme of Tasmania, between Three flummock and Hunter islands ; taking care not to anchor too near to the weather shore, lest the v/ind change suddenly. 4th. The bight between Wilson promontory and cape Liptrap, in case of necessity ; but it is a place not to be recommended, from its being very dangerous should the wind shift to S.W. 5th. Kent group, for small vessels ; in East cove. Deal island. 6th. Furneaux group, between Clarke and Preservation islands. If the ship be not able to weather Clarke island, and pass out to the south-eastward, when the wind comes fair, she may run through Armstrong channel, with a boat ahead and a good look-out. When going" westward. — In case of foul winds, which, if the weather be thick or rainy, may be expected to fix at S.W. and blow strong, there are many places where a ship may anchor, to wait a change ; but the following appear to be the most convenient : — 1st. West cove, in Erith island, Kent group. 2nd. Hamilton road, at the east end of Preservation isle. Also on the east side of Hummock island. 3rd. Western port, under Phillip island ; anchoring so soon as the ship is sheltered. A fair wind for gcdng onward through the strait will take a ship out of this port. 4th. Port Phillip. See charts, Nos. 1,695a and b. 582 EASTERN ENTRANCE OP BASS STRAIT. [Chap. YIU 5th. Sea Elephant bay, on the east side of King island, where there is fresh water ; or under the north-east end of that island, if the wind be from S.W. And on the north coast of Tasmania there is anchorage : — 1st. On the south side of the largest Swan isle for small vessels^ Mussel Roe bay, or under Waterhouse isle, 22 miles farther to^th» westward. 2nd. Port Dalrymple. 3rd. Port Sorell ; btit it is accessible only to small vessels. 4th. Various places among the Hunter group. See charts, Nos. 1,695« and b. 583 CHAPTER VIII. TASMANIA. — NORTH AND WEST COASTS. Variation in 1897. Cape Portland Cape Grim - 9° 30' E. - 8° 10' E. Cape Sorell South West cape - 8^ 40' E. - 8° 50' E. Nearly stationary. TASMANIA. — The north coast of Tasmania forms the south side of Bass strait, it extends for about 165 miles between Eddystoiie point and cape Grim, its north-east and north-west points ; and near the bottom of the bight, which it forms by curving to the southward, are ports Dalrymple and Sorell, the former being the embouchure of the river Tamar. The whole of this coast lies generally in very smooth water, the prevailing winds being off the land, and the long south-westerly swell outside being interrupted by the islands at the western entrance of the strait. Its navigation is represented to be free from dangers to within a mile of the coast and of the islands which lie off it ; except in the neighbourhood of port Dalrymple, where on the Hebe reef, lying 1^ miles from the land, the ship of that name was lost in 1808. The north-east extreme of Tasmania is low, with a coast-range of sand-hills ; from this level part, rise mounts Cameron and William, the loftiest of a group of peaks cresting a ridge ; the latter is used as a guide for vessels working through Banks strait. EDDYSTONE POINT, 81 feet high, the north-east extreme of Tasmania, forms the north point of the bay of Fires. At 4 cables S.E. by E. ^ E. from the point is the Eddystone rock, 19 feet high, the southern of the Victoria rocks, having between it and the land See charts, Nos. 1,695» and h, Bass strait, scale m = 0*2 inch ; No. 1,706, Banks strait, scale m = 0*5 inch ; No. 1,079, Tasmania, scale m = 0*11 inch. 684 TASMANIA. — NORTH COAST. [Chap. VIII. two half-tide rocks. The eastern of the Victoria rocks is named Norgate, and the northern, Greyhound rock. Greyhound rock lies nearly two-thirds of a mile E.N.E. from Eddystone point and has only 5 feet water on it ; Norgate rock lies about one mile East of the point, with 14 feet water on it; At 2^ miles N.W. by N. from Eddystone point and one mile from the coast is a rock awash at low water, and at N.W. ^ W. three- quarters of a mile is a rock awash at high water. On the north side of Eddystone point there is good landing. LIGHT. — The lighthouse, 2 cables north-west of Eddystone point, 85 feet high and painted white, exhibits at 139 feet above high water a group fiasJmig light of the first order, showing a series of three flashes every thirty seconds, which may be seen from a distance of 18 miles in clear weather. The light is white with two sectors of red light, the change between red and white not being made at once ; it shows white seaward between the bearings of N. 32° W. and S. 13° W. ; one red flash and two white flashes from N. 32° W. to N. 27° W. ; one white flash and two red flashes from N. 24° W. to N. 19° W.; and three red flashes from N. 17° W. to N. 14° E. ; one red flash and two white flashes from S. 13° W. to S. 8° W. ; one white flash and two red flashes from S. 5° W. to South ; and three red flashes from S. 2° E. to S. 48° E. There is also a small fixed red subsidiary light shown from this lighthouse, covering the Victoria rocks, which should be seen from a distance of 2^ miles in clear weather. Signal station. — There is a signal station at the Eddystone point lighthouse ; communication cannot be made by the com- mercial code of signals. It is a telegraph station, is connected with the telephonic system of the colony, and is easily accessible by boat. Tides and tidal streams.— It is high water, full and change, at Eddystone point at 8h. 10m. ; springs rise 7 feet. The flood stream sets to the northward, the ebb to the southward, but neither stream has any strength to the southward of Banks strait. Bay of Fires, close south of Eddystone point, affords good shelter when the wind is steady from the westward, but should be left immediately there is a lull, as the wind often at the termination of a westerly gale shifts suddenly to the S.E. The anchorage is in See chart, No. 1,706, with plan bay of Fires, scale m = 1'5 inches. €bap. VIII.] BDDYSTONE POINT. 585 10 or 11 fathoms, near the centre of the bay. The water shoals suddenly when near the beach. Anson lake is situated in the southern part of the bay of Fires, and the entrance is so small as not to be discernible from seaward, and scarcely permits boats to enter even at high water. Landing can •seldom be effected outside the entrance. At most times there is a •dangerous heavy surf rolling on to the beach. The COAST from Eddystone point trends N.W. J N., 10^ miles to cape Naturaliste, with several small points and bays between ; •off the points are numerous granite boulders, some of which are 20 feet high. Gape Naturaliste, 71 feet high, is faced by sand-cliffs, but the 'Coast about it is lower than that of Eddystone point. Mounts Cameron, William, and Pearson, are the only j-emarkable hills near this vicinity. The highest peak of mount 'Cameron, 1,825 feet, lies S. by W. | W. 17^ miles from Swan isle lighthouse. It is one of several peaks, and the summit is of a haycock form ; the ridge, of which mount Cameron is the highest part, is over 3 miles in length in a north-east and south-west •direction. Mount William, S.S.E. J E. llj miles from Swan isle lighthouse, rises gradually to a rounded summit 714 feet high. Mount Pearson, S.S.E. ^ E. 15| miles from Swan isle lighthouse, is a broad-topped hill 623 feet high. George rocks are a group of granite boulders, the highest of which (64 feet high) lies N.N.W. 4 miles from Eddystone point ; these rocks occupy a space of over a mile, and with the exception •of the largest two, are quite barren ; scattered through the group are •a few half-tide rocks, but most of the rocks are from 10 to 30 feet high. The space between George rocks and the main land is, with the ^^xception of the rock awash at low water described at page 584, apparently clear, but masses of kelp along the shore and on the west .side of George rocks give an appearance of hidden dangers, which may exist, though they have escaped detection. Eucalyptus rock, with 10 feet water, lies 3 miles from the shore, about 8 miles N.N.W. from Eddystone point ; the sea rarely ^-e chart, No. 1,706. 586 TASMANIA. — NORTH COAST. [Chap. VIII. breaks on it, but the position niay be known by kelp in the vicinity. Eddystone point open of George rocks bearing S. by E. f E. (S. 20° E.) leads between Eucalyptus and Salamander rocks. Salamander rock. — This danger, with 10 feet over it, lies N.E. by E. 3J miles from Eucalyptus rock. No distinct break has seen on this rock. The south round hill of mount Cameron range open south of mount William bearing S,W. by W. (S. 56° W.) leads to the southward, and the same hill well open north of mount William S. W. i W. (S. 51° W.) leads to the northward of Salamander rock. The rock lies in the direct track of vessels between Melbourne and Hobart. Black reef, 9 feet high, lies N.E. | E. 1^ miles from cape Naturaliste ; rocks above water extend to a distance of one-third of a mile N.W. by W. ; and at three-quarters of a mile E.S.E. is a rock above water, with sunken rocks around it. Mussel rock, with 6 feet, on which the sea sometimes breaks, lies 1^ miles N.W. J W. from Black reef. Mount Pearson in line with cape Naturaliste bearing S. by E. | E. (S. 14° E.) leads to the- westward of Mussel rock. Sounding's. — There are 41 fathoms at 5 miles and 42 fathoms at 13 miles off Eddystone point, and about 35 fathoms from the latter to the same distance off cape Barren, the bottom being rock at about midway, and sand to the northward. There are 23 fathoms at one mile eastward of George rock, and from Black reef to 8 miles E. by N. ^ N. from it, the soundings range from 14 to 21 fathoms. Mussel Roe point lies N.W. by W. I W. 2^ miles from cape Naturaliste ; to the east and north-east of this point there are many sunken rocks, and others awash at low water, the most outlying of which is situated E. ^ N. nearly three-quarters of a mile from the point. From Mussel Roe point the coast trends South for nearly half a mile to the mouth of Mussel Roe river, which is ^mall and only navigable for boats. From the mouth of this ri^^er the coast trends S.W., West, and N.W. for about 6 miles, forming the bay known as Mussel Roe bay. Mussel Roe "bay affords good anchorage in 6 or 7 fathoms, sandy See chart, No. 1,706. -iSIXY J Chap. VIII.] SALAMANDER ROCK.—SWAN ISLB^ ^ J 587 bottom, in the north-western portion of the bay, with Swan isle^ lighthouse bearing about N. by W. (N. 11"^ W.) Near the anchorage is a sandbank named Cockle bank, with 19 feet water, which bear* W.N.W. from Mussel Roe point, distant 2 miles. At 1^ miles- S. by W. \ W. from the south point of Swan isle, is Tree point, the N.W. point of Mussel Roe bay, thence the coast trends in a westerly direction for 2 miles to Little Mussel Roe river, the mouth of which may be entered by boats at half tide ; from Little Mussel Roe river the coast trends three-quarters of a mile in a north-westerly direction to a point made conspicuous by two bare sand-hills. Little Mussel Roe bay, between Tree point and the last mentioned point, is used by the smaller coasting vessels on account of the shoal anchorage ; it is, however, much more exposed than Mussel Roe bay. The coast from the point north-west of Little Mussel Roe river trends westerly 2^ miles to a point extending in the direction of Foster islets, thence 1^ miles to cape Portland ; this part of the coast is irregular, and has numerous shoals extending from it. Near cape Portland, between it and Foster islets, is a low islet, there are also- other islets nearer the shore connected by ledges ; the whole locality is very dangerous for boats on account of the confused sea. There is- a good navigable channel between Swan isle and the coast just described, but in consequence of the strength of the tidal streams it is well to give a wide berth to the foul ground extending from Swan isles and Foster islets. The leading mark for mid-channel is mount William in line with rocky part of coast north of Mussel Roe bay bearing S.E. i S. (S. 39^ E.) SWAN ISLE, 109 feet high, lying 1^ miles off the north-east coast of Tasmania, is of grey granite, but sand-hills covering the granite give it the appearance of being nearly all sand. At one-third of a mile West of the west point of the island is a sunken rock. A group of rocks, some of w^hich uncover at low water springs,, lies nearly 1^ miles in a N.W. by W. \ W. direction from the light- house. A rocky patch with 4 fathoms water over it is situated with Swan island lighthouse, bearing N.W. \ W. distant 6 cables, and another with a depth of 5 fathoms with that lighthouse N. ^ W. 8 cables. »S** chart, No. 1,706. 588 TASMANIA.— NORTH COAST. [Chap. VIII. Little Swan isle lies N.W. by N. one mile from the west end of Swan isle, and at half a mile beyond in the same direction lies Cygnet isle. Between these isles are numerous rocks, some of which are above water ; and shoal water extends three-quarters of a mile to the westward of the west point of Little Swan isle. Harry rock, lying N. by W. -^ W.one mile from Cygnet islet and N.W. by W. I W., nearly 3 miles from Swan isle lighthouse, has 16 feet over it at low water. At one to If miles North of Swan isle lighthouse there is a race or overfall, but no shoaler water than 7 fathoms could be found. LIGHT. — The lighthouse on the north-east point of Swan isle stands close to the water's edge, it is round, 74 feet high, painted white, and exhibits at 100 feet above the sea, a white light, fixed and flashing every minute, which can be seen in clear weather from a distance of 15 miles. Sigrnal station. — There is a signal station at Swan isle lighthouse and communication can be made by the commercial code. It is -connected by telegraph. Ancliorag^e may be obtained off a small sandy bay on the south- -east side of Swan isle ; the bottom is rock, or sand over rock, the holding ground is therefore bad. Sailing vessels working through Banks strait from the eastward often get as far as Swan isle with the liood stream, and anchor during the strength of the ebb : but it is not advisable to anchor at Swan isle if westerly gales are expected, a,s it is not uncommon for the wind to veer to the south-eastward. Tides and tidal streams.— It is high water, full and change, at Swan isle at 9h. ] 6m. ; springs rise 7 feet. The flood stream sets to the north-westward, the ebb to the south-eastward, at the rate of 3 knots at spring tides, influenced however by the wind. CAPE PORTLAND, W. by S. J S. 8i miles from Swan isle lighthouse, is low and rocky ; S.S.E. | E. three-quarters of a mile from the cape is a pile of stones 119 feet above the sea ; the coast from the cape trends in a S.S.E. direction, three-quarters of a mile, thence easterly half a mile and southerly 1^ miles, to a point which bears S. by E. ^ E. 2J miles from the cape. At one-third of a mile N.W. of this point is an islet about 20 feet high, with another islet See chart, No. 1,706. Chap. VIII.] BANKS STRAIT. 589 half a mile N.N.W. of it, from which a reef projects a quarter of a mile to the northward. These islets are too small to afford protection to the bay immediately east of them, and although used by small vessels it is only during a continuance of easterly winds ; the best channel into the bay is between cape Portland and the northern islet ; between the southern islet and the shore there is also a channel of 2^ fathoms. Foster islets, 47 feet high, situated W. | S. 7 miles from Swan isle lighthouse, are two islets connected at low wat^r. A shoal with 3 feet water extends 1| miles to the eastward, and a rock awash at low water lies N.N.W. ^ W. one mile from the islets ; the sea breaks, heavily upon this rock, and there is a heavy tide rip in the vicinity. There are 9 fathoms water at 1^ miles north-east of the outer Foster islet. BANKS STRAIT, which separates the Furneaux group from Tasmania, may be said to lie between Goose island to the north- west, and Eddystone point to the south-east. In the strait with a head wind it is generally impossible for sailing vessels to work to the westward during the ebb stream, and the custom is to anchor either under Swan isle, or in Mussel Roe bay, the latter anchorage being preferable, as the holding ground is not good at Swan isle anchorage. Occasionally small vessels anchor off Little Mussel Roe river, the water there being shoaler. The survey of 1874-77 proved the existence of many dangerous rocks, and the navigation of Banks strait consequently requires great care. The bottom in Banks strait consists of sand, and in some parts rock. DIRECTIONS. — In Banks strait the chief dangers to be avoided are the reef and rocks off Swan isles, and the foul ground and rocks northward of Foster islets. It may, however, be noticed that a vessel from the south-eastward, can close the shore when mount Pearson is over cape Naturaliste bearing S. by E. ^ E. (S. 14° E.), as she will then be past Mussel rock. Black reef, and the rocks that lie off the coast. See page 594. TIDAL STREAMS.— The flood stream is the west-going stream, and the ebb the east-going ; the streams are each of 6J hours duration at springs ; but during neaps, the flood runs 7 hours and ■ See chart, No. 1,70^. 590 TASMANIA.— NORTH COAST. [Chap. VIII. the ebb 5^ hours. The interval of slack water never exceeds a -quarter of an hour ; the west-going stream begins 30 minutes after low water at springs, and 50 minutes after it at neaps ; the east-going begins 40 minutes after high water at springs, and 10 minutes before it at neaps. In the narrowest part of the strait (8J- miles wide) between Swan isles and Clarke island, the tidal streams run at the rate of 3 knots at springs ; westerly winds accelerate the east-going stream, which occasionally attains a rate of 5 or 6 knots. The rate of the streams, the strongest being the east-going, at :isprings, in the middle of Banks strait causes, when opposed to the wind, a high topping sea, dangerous for small craft. RINGAROOMA BAY extends from cape Portland S.W. by W. I W. 13 miles to Waterhouse point, and is 6^ miles deep. From the point 2^ miles, S. by E. ^ E. from cape Portland, a rocky coast trends S. by E. ^ E. nearly one mile ; the beach which forms the south-eastern shore of Ringarooma bay then curves S.S.W. 5^ miles to Ringarooma river ; the coast thence continues S.W. for 2 miles with the same sandy beach, and W. by N. 4 miles with a rocky formation to the mouth of Tomahawk river, whence it trends half a mile North to Tomahawk point, close off which, and connected with it at low water, is Tomahawk islet. Between this islet and Waterhouse point the coast consists of a sandy bight and rocky points. At three quarters of a mile westward of Tomahawk point is a remarkable bare sand hill. There are 14 to 9 fathoms water at 1^ miles from the south-eastern shore, and 9 to 5 fathoms within a mile of the south-western shore of the bay. Ringarooma river* is used by small vessels occupied in the ■export of tin ore, quantities of which are found in the vicinity of mount Cameron, where the Ringarooma takes its rise. The mouth of the river is small^ and at low water there is very little more than one foot on the bar, but as the rise of tide is 7 to 9 feet, there is : generally sufficient water for the small vessels using the river ; the principal danger is the surf during strong northerly and westerly winds, at which time vessels do not venture. Tomahawk river is not navigable, but small vessels are beached in fine weather at high water, and floated again at the * Lower Rinfrarooma jor Boobyalla, at the mouth, of the river, is the shipping place ; there is regular steam communication with Lauuceston. See chart, No. l,70{i; <:)h^p. VIII.] RINGAROOMA BAY. 591 next high tide. The bight about the mouth of Tomahawk river is shoal. Both rivers have fresh water within 3 miles of their mouths, and there is a fresh water lagoon at 2 miles N.E. of Ringarooma river. WATERHOUSE POINT, 4^ miles W. by N. | N. from Toma- hawk point, is the rocky termination of a range of hills descending from Hardwick hill, 385 feet high ; the point has a reef of rocks (pinnacles of which dry at low water) projecting a quarter of a mile to the northward. Between Tomahawk and Waterhouse points is a bay, in the depth of which rocks awash and sunken extend to a distance of half a mile from the shore ; and at half a mile East of Waterhouse point there is a reef of rocks, some of which dry 'at low water. The coast from Waterhouse point trends S.W. IJ- miles to a small point abreast Little Waterhouse island ; this part of the coast has a sandy beach, with numerous dry and sunken rocks extending 3 cables from the shore. Off this point, in the direction of Little Waterhouse island, there is a rock dry at low water lying .3 J cables from the shore, and at 6 cables from the point there is a depth of 14 feet, between which and the shoal extending from Little Waterhouse island there is a navigable channel 2^ cables wide, with 4 to 5 fathoms water. WATERHOUSE ISLAND, the north point of which lies N.W. I N. 3 miles from Waterhouse point, is 2^ miles long, N.N.E. and S.S.W., and half a mile broad. Waterhouse island is 144 feet high, and the channel between it : and Waterhouse point is 1^ miles wide ; it has an even summit, and falls gradually at its north end ; in some partp there are a few trees, but the island is nearly cleared of timber. The owner of the island resides in a small wooden cottage near the sandy beach on the south-east side of the island. Off this sandy beach a spit dry at low-water spring tides, extends in a north-easterly direction about 4 cables ; the outer edge of the spit lies 2 cables from the shore, with shoal water one cable to the eastward of it. Along the east coast of the island northward of the sand-spit a shoal flat extends to a distance of 4 cables until See chart, No. 1,706, plan Waterhouse anchorage, scale m = 15 inches. 592 TASMANIA.— NORTH COAST. [Chap. VIII. within half a mile of the north point, thence there are no dangers beyond one cable, along the north and west coasts of the island. Little WaterhOUSe island, 38 feet high, lies nearly three- quarters of a mile south-east of the south point of Waterhouse island, and is about 200 yards across ; rocks above and below water, extend nearly 2 cables from it in the direction of the south end of Water- house island, narrowing the principal passage to a width of 3 cables. A spit extends 2 cables in an easterly direction from the east point of the island, the tail of which has 16 feet water. Dangers. — At a distance of about three-quarters of a mile W.S.W. from Little Waterhouse island is a rock dry at low water ; and S.W. by W. I W. If miles is Barrett rock with 11 feet water. Between the rocks and Little Waterhouse island there are 9 to 10 fathoms water. North-east of Little Waterhouse island, in the direction of the channel and occupying a central position, is a sand-bank with patches of rock upon it ; the south-west end of this sand-bank is distant half a mile from Little Waterhouse island, and the north-east end 1^ miles. The shoalest part of this bank has 7 feet water, and lies^ N.E. J N. one mile from Little Waterhouse island. Several sandy knolls of 14, 16, and 18 feet respectively, extend to the eastward, the outer of which lies 2 miles from Little Waterhouse island. Anchorage. — Waterhouse anchorage, on the east side of Water- f house island, is a safe and useful anchorage, affording shelter from easterly or westerly gales. Anchor as convenient either in the channel near the west end in 5 fathoms, about 3 cables off the west end of the only sandy beach on the south side of the island, or just clear of the channel at the east end, over a sandy bottom, in about the same depth, near a patch of 3 fathoms, with Croppies point over the west end of Little Waterhouse island, bearing S.W. by S. (S. 34° W.). ANDERSON BAY. — From South Croppies point the coast, a sandy beach backed by sand-hills which attain an elevation of 140 feet, trends in a S.W. by S. direction for about 11^ miles, to th& head of Anderson bay, where the rivers Great Forester and Brid discharge themselves by one mouth into the sea. The coast then See chart, No. 1,706. Chap. VIII.] ANDERSON BAY. 593 trends in a north-west direction for about 5 miles to East Sandy cape, being of a rocky and broken nature. On the east side of the bay the soundings are regular, with a depth of 5 fathoms, generally about half a mile from the beach ; on the west side the soundings are variable. Tides and tidal streams. — It is high water, full and change at Waterhouse island at lOh. 16m. ; springs rise 8 feet. The flood is the west-going stream, and its rate about 2 knots at the anchorage. CROPPIES POINT, S.W. | W. 4 miles nearly from Waterhouse point, is free from off -lying dangers to the eastward as far as the point abreast Little Waterhouse island ; the coast line is rocky, and the few sunken rocks which exist are not more than one cable from. it. SoutlL Croppies point lies S. by W. | W. nearly one mile from Croppies point, with two small points and exposed sandy bays between. Rocks.— At half a mile N.W. by W. | W. from South Croppies point is the Croppie rock with 12 feet water over it. At 2^ miles to the south-west of South Croppies point is a rock 9 feet above high water, and at 2 J miles in the same direction, a rock 2 feet above high water ; these rocks are about one mile off shore. Nearly one mile off the mouth of the Little Forester river is Forester rock, 2 feet above high water. Great Forester river.— The mouth of this river is blocked by a sandy bar which dries at low water springs. The outermost rocks in this vicinity are always above water. Communication. — The town of Bridport on the left bank of the Great Forester river, half a-mile from the mouth, has a post office and telegraphic communication ; a small steam- vessel calls at Bridport every ten or twelve days from port Dalrymple, and there is a railway from Launceston to Scottsdale, about 13 miles to the southward. Anchor agre. — Anderson bay generally affords shelter only with southerly winds, but fair shelter has been obtained in westerly gales, half a-mile south-east of East Sandy cape, in 5 fathoms, sand, and good holding ground. In approaching this anchorage care must be See charts, No. 1,706 and No. 1,696a. so 11712 2 P 594: TASMANIA. — NORTH COAST. [Chap. VIII. taken to avoid a rocky ledge projecting from a point, situated about one mile south-eastward of East Sandy cape. Working: to the westward in Banks strait.— In the summer months when westerly gales are of short duration it is advisable to stand towards the Tasmanian coast, to take advantage of the shift of wind. Winds. — During the survey of Banks strait, the heaviest and most frequent gales (generally from the westward) were experienced in the months of September, October, and November. On the termination of a westerly gale the wind in the vicinity of Banks strait sometimes shifts to the south-eastward ; the barometer standing a little above 29*60 inches. The wind seldom blows home with much strength, but sufficiently so, the swell rolling in simul- taneously, to necessitate leaving the anchorages, which are op„en to the south-east. A.11 anchorages in Banks straits which are exposed to the south-east require great caution in their use. owing to the uncertain nature of the winds. Mussel Roe bay is, taken altogether, recommended as the safest anchorage. J3AST SANDY OAPE is formed by a long low ridge extending in a northerly direction from the high ground inland ; the cape terminates in a conspicuous sand-hill, 125 feet high, which shows a bare face to seaward except in a westerly direction. A ledge of rocks, which covers and uncovers, with no outlying dangers, stretches 2 cables northward from the cape. West Sandy cape, about 3 mile^ westward of East Sandy cape, is formed by a series of low sand-hills, fronted by shelving rocks. Dang'ers. — A rocky patch, which breaks heavily in bad weather, and has a depth of less than 6 feet on it at low water, lies three- quarters of a mile northward of West Sandy cape. Two miles west- ward of that cape. Flat rocks, detached ledges which mostly cover at about three-quarters flood, extend one mile from the shore. The soundings off this coast are irregular, and it should not be approached nearer than 1^ miles. Ninth island, 108 feet high, is flat-topped, devoid of trees, and nearly covered with grass. The depths round the island are See chart, No. 1,695«. Ohap. VIII.] EAST SANDY CAPE. — STONY HEAD. 595 irregular, especially northward and eastward of it, and as the examination of that locality was only partial, and less water may exist than shown on the chart, the north-east side of the island should be given a berth of at least one mile. NOLAND BAY. — From West Sandy cape the coast trends south-westward for about 7 miles, thence West about 7 miles to Stony head. Noland bay is the eastern part of this indentation ; its shore is sandy, with sand-hills 30 to 70 feet high, and fronted by ledges of rocks which cover and uncover. Nearer Stony head the land becomes more elevated, and is faced by cliffs 40 to 100 feet in height. The soundings in Noland bay are tolerably regular, and there are no outlying dangers known. Great Piper river, which discharges itself into the south-west part of Noland bay, is blocked at its mouth by a bar of sand which dries at low water springs. STONY HEAD is a conspicuous headland, 295 feet high, with cliffs and broken ground, 120 feet high, seaward of its summit. This headland is the extremity of a range of hills running down from the inland mountains, the most conspicuous of which is Round hill, 770 feet high, situated about 2 miles S.S.E. of the head. Tenth island, N.W. ^ N., 2| miles from Stony head, is a rock 30 feei high, which may be passed on any side at a distance ol a quarter of a mile. Five Mile bluff is about 6| miles S.W. by W. ^ W. from Stony head, the coast between forming a bay. One mile westward of Stony head there is a slight projection fronted by shelving rocks and shallow water, which should be given a berth of one mile. TIDES. — It is high water, full and change, in Tam O'Shanter bay 2^ miles East of Stony head, at about llh. Om. ; springs rise about 10 feet. Tidal streams. — The flood is the west-going stream and sets parallel ta the shore, the ebb is the east-going stream. In the channel between Tenth island and Stony head, and near salient points such as the Sandy capes, the streams attain a rat« of about one knot; as the distance from the shore increases, the tidal streams become weaker, and much affected by prevailing winds. — ■ -^P^ — - iSf^e chart, No. 1,696«. SO 11712 2 P 2 596 TASMANIA.— NORTH COAST. [Chap. VIII. DIRECTIONS. — Tenth and Ninth islands are good guides for Waterhouse anchorage ; the course and distance from the former are N.E. | E. (N. 53° E.) 14 miles to the latter island, and from Ninth island E. by N. i N. (N. 76° E.) 15^ miles to the south point of Waterhouse island. Mount Cameron bearing nearly S.E. by E. J E. (S. 59° E.), is a distant mark for making Waterhouse island from the north-westward. LOW HEAD.— From Five Mile bluff the coast trends S.W. ^ S. 4^ miles to a bight formed on the south-west side by a narrow pro- montory extending N.W. by W. one mile to Low head, the eastern entrance point of port Dalrymple and Tamar river. There are two lighthouse towers on Low head, the old and the new, both are painted white and are of about the same height. A reef lies N.E. ^ E. If miles from Low head, and three-quarters of a mile from the shore, with which the reef is connected by a shoal. Vessels are liable to be set by the ebb stream into the bay between the reef and Low head. Buoy. — A bell buoy, painted brown with black staff and ball, is moored in 9 fathoms with Low head lighthouse bearing S.E. | S. (S. 35° E.) distant one mile. Signal station. — There is a signal station at Low head, and communication can be made by the commercial code. It is con- nected by telegraph. LIGHTS. — The lighthouse on Low head, which stands 2 cables within its extremity, is a tower 36 feet high, painted white ; it exhibits at 142 feet above high water, a white light revolving every minute^ which may be seen from a distance of 15 miles in clear weather. A fixed light is shown from the pilot station, it shows white from the direction of the Shear rock to the point of the reef south of the Barrel rock beacon, and red over the anchorage. A fixed white light is also shown from a position about 2 cables N.N.W. from the preceding light. Leading" Lights. — Two leading lights are exhibited from two towers 30 feet high, painted white, on Shea-oak point, port Dalrymple, east side of Tamar river entrance. The lights are fixed lights, placed 400 yards apart, and when kept in line bearing S.E. by E. \ E. (S. 62° E.) lead through the Middle channel, Tamar river entrance. Sec ohart, No. 1,080, Tamar river with port Dalrymple, scale m = 10 and 2*0 inches. Chap. VIII.] PORT DALRYMPLE. 597 The lights should be seen in clear weather from a distance of 9 miles. The upper light is white, 55 feet above high water, and is visible between the bearings of N. 22° W. and S. 50° E. The lower light is red, 158 feet above high water, and is visible between the bearings of N. 5° W. and S. 40° E. PORT DALRYMPLE and TAMAR RIVER. — Port Dalrymple, the principal harbour on the north coast of Tasmania, constitutes the entrance of Tamar river, which river, formed by the confluence of the North and South Esk rivers at Launceston, flows through a valley betwixt two irregular chains of hills, that shoot out north-westward from the great body of inland mountains. In some places these hills stand wide apart, and the river then widens to a considerable extent ; in others, they nearly meet and contract it to narrow limits. Of the two chains of hills which bound the valley, the eastern one terminates at Low head ; the other descends to Badger head, S.W. by W. J W., 6^ miles from Low head. The ends of these chains, when seen from directly off the entrance, appear as two clusters of hills having some resemblance to each other ; and in fine weather, the distant blue heads of the back mountains are seen over the tops of both clusters. These appearances, together with the position of the vessel, are the best distant marks for finding port Dalrymple. From the eastward, Ninth island, and afterwards Stony head with Tenth island lying off it, show the vicinity of the port ; and Low head, with the conspicuous lighthouse towers (the old and new) on it, will be perceived in the bight to the S.S.W. At about 10 miles south-westward of the port the back land is high, rising to 1,700 feet, and the top of the ridge is rugged, forming unusual shapes. These mountains, with the direction of the coast and the most remarkable of the clusters of hills just noticed, serve as marks for port Dalrymple, from the westward. The entrance of port Dalrymple, between Low head and Friend point, S. by W. | W. If miles from the head, is difficult of access, on account of the numerous reefs and banks in it, extending a considerable distance from the western side of the entrance, which should therefore be avoided, and entrance made by Low head. The greater part of these shoals, and also of those within See charts, No. 1,695« and No. 1,080. 598 TASMANIA. — NORTH COAST. [Chap. VIII. are covered at half tide, so that at half flood, or even a little before, is the best time to enter port Dalrymple, as almost the whole of the dangers are then visible. HEBE REEF, the outermost danger off the entrance of port Dalrymple, is about a quarter of a mile in extent, mostly in an east and west direction. A small portion of its centre, which is nearly dry at low water, lies West 2| miles from Low head lighthouse. A bank with 4 to 4| fathoms water on it extends half a mile eastward from the reef ; but there are 6 and 7 fathoms at less than a quarter of a mile North and South of the reef. As the northern edge of Hebe reef is in line with Flinders point stnd Badger head, bearing S.W., Badger head open seaward of Flinders point, leads outside it. Buoy. — A nun buoy painted with horizontal red and white stripes, and with staff and ball, is moored in 12 fathoms water at one cable northward of the reef, with Low head lighthouse bearing E. ^ S. The Eastern shore of port Dalrymple, from Low head, trends 1 J miles in a S.E. ^ S. direction to Shea-oak point, the south point of port Dalrymple, and consists of alternate points and small bights, bordered by a shoal, the 3-fathoms edge of which projects one to 2 cables from the low water line ; the shoal extends as a spit, 1^ cables north-westward from Low head ; at a quarter of a mile southward of the lighthouse it projects If cables south-westward, nearly to the Middle bank. Barrel rock beacon is red and white, and stands on a projec- tion of the reef which borders the shore, at S. by E. ^ E. two-thirds of a mile from Low head lighthouse ; a spit projects one cable from the beacon in a S.S.E. direction, towards a 2^ fathoms patch of kelp, known as the 3-fathoms bank, which extends 2 J cables from the beacon. Marks. — Two red beacons on Cordell point in line lead to the south extreme of the bank, S. by E. ^ E. 2^ cables from Barrel rock beacon. Barrel rock beacon and Low head lighthouse in line also lead to this extreme. Anchorage. —There are 3^ to 4 fathoms water between the 3-fathoms bank and the shore, and anchorage in 4 to 8 fathoms in port Dalrymple, or anywhere between the 3-fathoms bank and Shea-oak point, with 3 fathoms water from 2 to 2^ cables from the shore. See chart, No. 1,080. Chap. VIII.] PORT DALRYMPLE. 599 The Towers are tAvo circular black stone beacons, built on the southern end of lagoon beach, bearing nearly S.E. by E. ^ E. distant about three-quarters of a mile from Barrel rock beacon ; they bear W.N.W. and E.S.E. distant about 340 yards from each other, and being 30 feet high, are visible 7 miles. These towers were erected to guide strangers into the port, when the weather was too bad for the pilots to venture outside. Middle bank, the most dangerous shoal in the entrance of port Dalrymple, is a rocky patch, between the bearings of W. by S. ^ S. 5 cables, and S.W. } S. 6 cables from Low head lighthouse, with only 12 feet in some parts at low-water springs. The northern extremity of Low head in line with the first black cliffy projection to the eastward of it, or the flagstaff on Low head open to the northward of the lighthouse, clears its northern edge, and its south- west side is marked by a black buoy, bearing S.W. by W. J W., distant 6 cables from the lighthouse. Eastern Cliannel, lying between Middle bank and the shoal which borders the west side of Low head, is one-third of a mile wide in the outer part, with 4 to 6 fathoms water ; but the inner part is rather more than half a cable in width, with 3J fathoms apparently on a ridge, extending from the south-east extreme of the Middle bank to the shore. Browne's house open west of Shear beacon S. I E. (S. 8° E.) leads through. This channel is not safe for a stranger without a pilot. MIDDLE CHANNEL, the main entrance into port Dalrymple, is formed by the Middle bank on the north-eastern, and Yellow rock on the south-western side ; it is nearly 2 cables wide, with depths of 22 to 10 fathoms. Yellow rock and West reef. — Yellow rock is an extensive patch of kelp, with a double light-coloured rock, on which the least depth of water is 9 feet ; it is marked by a white buoy, bearing S.W. I W., distant 8 cables from the lighthouse. This rock forms the east extreme of West reef, the northern edge of which extends from the white buoy nearly three-quarters of a miTe in a West direction. This reef is about one-third of a mile broad, but the only part of it uncovered at high water is Black reef, which is dry 2 feet near the centre, bearing S.W. ^ W., distant nearly 1^ miles' from the lighthouse. See chart, No. 1,080. 600 TASMANIA. — NORTH COAST. [Cliap. VIII. Shear beacon, S.W. by W. ^ W., 4J cables from Barrel rock beacon, is white, and stands on the uncovered part of Shear reef, which is connected with West reef by shoal water, where the greatest depth does not exceed 15 feet ; a spit, with .1^ fathoms on its extremity, projects N. by E. nearly 2 cables from Shear beacon. Shear rock, which dries 2 feet, lies between the beacon and the spit. A white buoy lies to the northward of the rock. The South- west shore of port Dairy mple from Friend point, the south-west entrance point of the port, trends S.E. by E. about three-quarters of a mile to Browne's house, the first within Friend point. From Browne's house the shore extends nearly S.E., 1^ miles to the north-west point of Kelsal bay. This shore is fronted by a bank, which extends about one mile northward and north-eastward to West and Shear reefs, with a narrow inlet — about midway between Friend point and the outer edge of the reefs — running into the bank from the westward, and carrying 1| to IJ fathoms water. Between this inlet and the shore there are numerous patches of reef, dry at low water. From the spit, which projects northward from Shear beacon, the 3-fathoms edge of the bank extends S.E. ^ S. IJ miles, and thence S. by E. ^ E. nearly 1^ miles to the west point of Kelsal bay. There are several knolls on the bank, the edge of which is marked by 3 white buoys, the northern buoy bearing S.E. | E., distant nearly 7 cables from Shear beacon, the middle buoy bearing S.E. ^ S. 5 cables from the northern buoy, and the southern buoy bearing S.S.E. I E. 4^ cables from the middle buoy. There is good anchorage in 4 or 5 fathoms at about 2 cables above, or to the south- east of, the northern buoy. Honduras bank with 15 feet water on its outer edge, extending about half a mile off from the low- water line is marked by a white buoy. The Eastern shore of the river Tamar from Shea-oak point takes a general S.S.E. ^ E. direction, for 2 miles to the south-west point of Georgetown ; the shore curves a little to the eastward, and about midway between the two points is Long Tom point, which is fringed with reefs, projecting nearly 2 cables from the shore. At a quarter of a mile northward of Long Tom point stands Cox house near the shore. The eastern shore of the river is fronted by a flat, the 3-fathoms edge of which, from 2 cables off Shea-oak point trends irregularly aVc chart, No. 1,080. Chap. VIII.] RIVER TAMAR, 601 S.S.E. half a mile to Simmons mistake beacon, which is black and from which a spit, with 3 feet water on it, extends nearly a quarter of a mile to the north-eastward. From Simmons beacon, the edge of the east flat, which is slightly curved and steep-to, trends S. by E. I E. rather more than a mile to the west point of the east flat, which is marked by a beacon, and thence E.S.E. for half a mile, with an intermediate beacon, to the south-west point of Georgetown. There are several patches of reef on the flat between the beacon and the town. Bombay rock, N.W. 2 cables from the west beacon just noticed, has 4 feet water on it and is marked by a red buoy ; there is a narrow 6-fathoms channel on the east side, but the main channel is on the west side. GEORGETOWN is situated on the eastern shore, at nearly 3 J miles within Low head ; it is built upon a flat, forming the north- western side of Georgetown or York cove, at the western foot of a group of conical hills. Mining is carried on in the neighbourhood. There is steam communication with Launceston and Melbourne. It is also a telegraph station. Population of town 229 and of district 3,607 in 1891. Georgetown cove extends about N.E. by E., 4 cables along the south-eastern side of the town, and is 1| cables wide, with 10 to 2 fathoms water. Middle shoal, which lies in the entrance of the cove, is a cluster of rocks one cable long, and has a beacon on its south-west end, bearing S.E., distant IJ cables from the south-west point of Georgetown. There are 9 fathoms water between the shoal and the town, and 16 fathoms between the shoal and the south-east entrance point of the cove.* Kelsal bay and Arthur head. — Kelsal bay extends from its north-west point ^.E. J E. three-quarters of a mile to Arthur head, and is one-third of a mile deep ; the bay, except a small inlet close, to its north-west point, is filled by a shoal flat, which extends about half way across towards Georgetown. The north extreme of this flat forms a spit, with 3 feet water on it, marked by a white buoy, lying West three-quarters of a mile from the south-west point of Georgetown. See chart, No. 1,080. * There is a light on Garrow rock (middle shoal), but particulars have not yet been received. 602 TASMANIA.— NORTH COAST. [Chap. VIII. Garden isle. — From the northern spit of the flat its north-eastern edge trends E.S.E two-thirds of a mile to the north point of Garden isle, which is 2 cables long N.E. and S.W., with a small hillock 30 feet high on its north-east end, close off which there are 18 fathoms water. There is a narrow reef on the edge of the flat between 1^ and 3 cables north-westward of the island, marked by two white beacons. Between Arthur head and Garden isle there are 7 fathoms water. Port Dalrymple channel from the Middle bank to Georgetown is half a mile to one cable wide between the flats which front the shores ; the narrowest part being abreast of Simmons mistake beacon. There is a sufficient depth of water for ships of the heaviest draught in the fairway, where the soundings range from 29 to 5 fathoms, without any other known hidden danger than the Bombay rock. Beacons and buoys. — The shoals on either side within the entrance of Tamar river are marked with beacons and buoys : the beacons on the western shore are marked thus ^, and those on the eastern side by a cross f- Shoals or rocks, marked with chequered buoys, may be passed on either side ; a red or black buoy signifies that the danger extends from the eastern shore, and a white one that it extends from the western shore. PILOTS. — By making the proper signal, mariners may always procure pilots off port Dalrymple.when the weather will admit of their going off ; and should the weather be too bad to permit the pilot to proceed outside, the boat will lie in mid-channel with the flag flying. DIRECTIONS. — For the guidance of those who are obliged to run in, the following directions and a good look-out may prove sufficient ; especially since the two leading lights have been established on Shea-oak point, which in line bearing S.E. by E. ^ E. (S. 62° E.), see page 596, lead in through the Middle channel with safety, if, on arriving off the port, it is blowing too hard for a pilot to get dtitside. The Eastern channel should not be attempted without a pilot. Middle channel. — For port Dalrymple or Tamar river, use Middle channel, being the safer. When from the northward or eastward, keep the lead going, and having Low head lighthouse or light bearing South, it may be approached to 3 miles, when a S.W. (S. 45° W.) course can be steered until the leading white light towers or red and white lights are sighted on a south-east bearing, then steer South and bring them in line bearing S.E. by E. ^ E. See chart, No. 1,080. Chap. VIII.] RIVER TAMAR, DIRECTIONS. 603 (S. 62^ E.), which is the mark for steering in, see page 596, passing close to the buoys on Yellow and Shear rocks, also to the point of the reef near Barrel rock. Before the leading lights are brought in line, care must be taken not to bring Low head light east of E. by S. (S. 79° E.). The same precaution is necessary when coming from the westward. When Shear rock is passed (at night the white light at the pilot station opens when past the rock) bring the leading light towers or lights about 1^ points on the port bow, taking care not to open the low tower or light south of the high, to avoid the bank westward of Cordell point, and having the hand lead quickly going, steer by the white buoys on the starboard hand, and Simmons mistake beacon on the port,* whence the course to the Bombay rock is S. by E. (S. 11° E.). So long as the low or red leading light is in sight, the vessel is clear of this last danger, which is marked by a red buoy. Beyond Bombay rock the course is S.E. (S. 45° E.), and the low light becomes obscured. Garden island can be closely rounded. The high or white leading light must be kept in sight to clear the Garrow rock (or Middle shoal) near Georgetown. Great attention must also be paid to the tidal streams, as they set obliquely across this part of the river ; the ebb, for instance, crosses from Kelsal bay to the beacon on the west point of the east flats, and with such strength as to form whirlpools. Anchorages. — The anchorage in port Dalrymple is about one cable within the line of lights (the high light to eastward open of the low) in 8 fathoms water. Directions. — The red light at Low head pilot station having become visible, or the red beacons on Cordell point being in line, to anchor at port Dalrymple haul a little to the eastward of the line of the leading lights on Shea-oak point, taking care not to approach too near the shoals. Georgetown cove. — Having entered the cove, anchor opposite the wharf, in 5 fathoms, and moor either with half a cable each way, or with a kedge on the shore, or perhaps, with a hawser to the trees. iKelsal bay. — To anchor in Kelsal bay, pass on the west side of Bombay rock, and keep near the western shore, in order to avoid the northern spit of Kelsal bay flat, marked by a white buoy. After entering the bay a vessel may moor to the trees. See chart, No. 1,080«. * The red light at the pilot station and the white light north-north-west of it in line lead westward of Simmons mistake beacon. 604 TASMANIA.— NORTH COAST. [Chap. VIII. Eastern Cliannel. — To enter port Dalrymple by Eastern channel, which it is not advisable for a stranger to do — and should never be attempted at night — close the west side of Low head, to avoid the shoals which stretch out at least two-thirds of the way across from the south-western shore of the entrance. Shear beacon being clearly distinguished, bring Browne's house open west of the beacon, bearing S. f E. (S. 8° E.), which leads through Eastern channel. Continue this course until the leading beacons on Shea-oak point are in line, when steer towards them, and as above directed. To sea. — From close eastward of Garden island, leave the white beacons and buoys on the port hand and the black and red beacons and buoys on the starboard hand. To clear the shoal westward of Cordell point, do not bring the red beacons on that point in line until Low head lighthouse is open west of Barrel rock beacon. Then proceed to sea with the leading light beacons in line. At night from Garden island, without losing sight of the high white leading light, steer a north-west course, and when the low red leading light comes in sight bearing N. ^ W. (N. 6° W.) steer for it, keeping a sharp look out for the buoy near Bombay rock. Bring and keep the red light at the pilot station in line with the white light north -north-west of it until the white leading light on Shea-oak point is just open south of the red leading light ; keep these lights so until the pilot station light becomes white, then bring them in line and keep them so until outside. When Low head light bears E. by N. ^ N. (N. 73° E.) the vessel is outside the entrance of Middle channel. The Eastern shore of Tamar river, between the south-east entrance point of Georgetown cove and Roundabout point, which lies S. by W. two-thirds of a mile from it, forms an irregular sandy bay, between which and Garden isle the river is one-third of a mile wide, with 9 to 25 fathoms water, affording room for many vessels to anchor ; but the bottom is uneven, and the streams are rapid and irregular. Porpoise rock lies one cable off Roundabout point, and has 4 feet on it at low water ; it is marked by a black buoy, and the water is deep close round it. Deceitful cove. — From Roundabout point the shore trends See chart, No. 1,080. Chap, vlii.] iiiVER TAMAR. 605 nearly S.E* three-quarter's of a mile to the foot of a hillock, betweeii Which and Effingham point, 3 cables to the southward of it, is the entrance of Deceitful cove, a shoal creek trending to the northward. Tlie Western shore from Arthur head curves nearly S.S.E. half-a-mile to the north-west extreme of Bryan bay, thence the bay extends S.E. by S. nearly one mile to Anchor point, and is a quarter of a mile deep, with 4 and 5 fathoms close to the shore. There are 26 to 7 fathoms between Roundabout and Anchor points, with anchorage in 4 to 8 fathoms, in Bryan bay, at a quarter of a mile from the shore. Shag" rock, E.S.E. nearly 2 cables from Anchor point, is just covered at high water ; there is deep water close round the rock, and 19 fathoms between it and the shore ; this rock is marked by a beacon. West arm. — Ilfracombe. — Yorktown. — The entrance of West arm extends from Anchor point S. by E. | E. three-quarters of a mile to Inspection head, at Ilfracombe, whence the arm trends west and south-westward 2^ miles to the ruins of Yorktown ; West arm is a shoal inlet one-third of a mile wide half way in, above which it expands to two-thirds of a mile in width, and has a small fresh water stream flowing into its western corner. Middle arm* is about three-quarters of a mile wide, N.W. and S.E., between Inspection and Middle heads, whence it trends 2J miles to the southward. There are 10 to 13 fathoms in the entrance, and 3 fathoms at about three-quarters of a mile within it ; above which the arm is mostly filled by a shoal flat, branching to the southward and south-eastward. Middle isle. — Between Middle head and Middle point, N.E. | E. 2 miles from it, the south shore of the river forms a bay three- quarters of a mile deep ; but it is filled by a shoal fiat, the edge of which from Middle head extends N. by W. one mile to a spit, whence it curves round eastward and northward to Middle isle, which lies W. by N. half a mile from Middle point. There is good anchorage in 5 to 7 fathoms one-third of a mile westward of Middle isle, with soft regular bottom, and out of the strength of the stream, where a vessel not having a pilot is recommended to anchor before pro- ceeding farther up the river. Sue chart, No. 1,080. * Beaconsfield, the third town of importance in Tasmania, is situated in a mining district, 1^ miles inland from the left bank of the river about 10 miles southward of Georgetown. Its population was 1,950 in 1895. 606 TASMANIA.— NORTH COAST. [Chap. VIII. The quarantine ground, is the bight formed in the northern edge of the shoal fiat, just noticed, from its north-west spit to Middle isle, between which there are 7 fathoms, with 4 fathoms close to the edge of the flat. From Efflngrham point the north shore extends E. ^ N. 1^ miles to 3 cables North of Middle isle ; there are 6 fathoms close to this shore, and 19 to 4^ fathoms in the fairway between it and the quarantine ground. Long" Reach. — From Middle point, the south-western shore of Long reach trends E. by S. 1^ miles and S.E. by E. 1^ miles to point Rapid. A shoal bank about one cable broad, extends from Middle isle along this shore to point Rapid, a projection of the bank being marked by a beacon, E. by N. 3 cables from the north point of the island ; a rocky spit extends 2 cables from the shore, half a mile north-westward of point Rapid. From one-third of a mile N.N.W. of Middle isle, the north-east shore — where there is copper and iron ore — curves N.E. and E.S.E. 2 miles to a fresh-water stream, close off which there is anchorage in 4 fathoms. Thence the shore extends S.E. ^ E. 2 miles to the entrance of East arm ; it is intersected by small creeks, and rises to a range of stony, but well-timbered hills. The depths of water in Long reach are irregular, varying from 9 to 4 and from 15 to 9 fathoms in the fairway ; the deepest water being on the north-east side of the reach, as a bank, with 2^ to 3 fathoms on it, extends 3 cables from the south-west shore for a distance of 2 miles from Middle isle. Buoy. — This bank is marked by a white buoy bearing E.N.E. nearly 7 cables from the north point of Middle isle. A bank, with 12 feet water on it, lies about N.N.E. from point Rapid, nearer to the southern than the northern shore. Clearing beacons for leading either side of it are placed on the shore to the south-eastward. East arm is 4 cables wide at its entrance, whence it runs East half a mile, and S.E. one mile, its eastern corner terminating in Fourteen Mile creek. From 9 fathoms in the entrance, the depths decrease to 1 J fathoms &bout one mile within it. There is ironstone along the south-west shore of East arm. See ch^t, No. 1,080. Chap. VIII.] RIVER TAMAR. 607 Moriarty reach. — From point Rapid the western shore of Moriarty reach trends S.W. by S. one mile to Shark bay, and thence sweeps round in a S.S.W. direction IJ miles to Devil's Elbow point, close off which is an islet, with sunken rocks along its south-east side. This shore is indented by several shoal bights, and may be generally approached within a cable in 6 to 8 fathoms. There is anchorage in 6 or 7 fathoms, close off Shark bay ; and in 8 fathoms, off a similar bight at one-third of a mile north-eastward of Devil's Elbow. Sidmoutll. — Between Devil's Elbow and a projecting part of Sidmouth, S. by W. one-third of a mile from it, is a bay having 3 to 5 fathoms water, in which there appears to be anchorage, out of the stream. The eastern shore of Moriarty reach from East arm trends S.W. one mile to a projecting point, thence South half a mile to another point, between which and a projection S. by W. J W. three-quarters of a mile from it, is a bay half a mile deep, with a creek in its bight ; the bay is bordered by a flat which extends a quarter of a mile from the shore. At the entrance of this bay is a one fathom bank, one-third of a mile long, N.N.E. and S.S.W., with a beacon on its south-west point. There is a small 2-fathoms patch in the southern part of the bay, at a quarter of a mile eastward of the beacon, with 4 fathoms close to the eastward and westward, and 5 to 7 fathoms to the north- ward of it, where there is anchorage with soft bottom. The channel between the bank and the western shore is one cable wide, with 2 to 4 fathoms water in it. Redwood islet lies 3 cables south-westward of the south-west point of the bay, just described, from which point the shore trends S.S.W. half a mile to the east point of the north-western entrance of Whirlpool reach ; the channel between Redwood islet and the islet off Devil's Elbow is one cable wide, with 12 fathoms water in it.* Whirlpool reach- — Whirlpool reach, from its north-west entrance, between Sidmouth and the opposite point, trends S.E. by E. nearly one mile, and is barely 2 cables wide, with irregular depths of 20 to 7 fathoms. From a creek ou the south-west side of the south-eastern entrance of Whirlpool reaci^, the ^outh-westem shore trends nearly S.E. by E. Se^ rshart, No. 1,080, 608 I^ASMANIA. — NORTH COAST. [Chap. VIII. 1 J miles, and then S.E. by S. 1 J miles to Supply rivulet ; about half a mile E.S.E. of the creek, and also at the same distance N.N.W. of the rivulet, some sunken rocks lie about a cable from the shore. Whirlpool rock is just within the north-west entrance of Whirlpool reach ? it is composed of numerous pinnacles of blue stone, intermingled with thick clay, and is about 120 feet by 90 feet inside the 20 feet line at low water springs. It lies nearly in the centre of the channel and 490 feet from the eastern shore. The least water on it was 12 feet 6 inches at low water springs in 1893. It is being removed by blasting, and it was expected that there would be 17 feet over it at the beginning of 1894. This danger has 10 fathoms water on its south-west side, but only 3 fathoms on its north-east side. Spring" bay is a bight 1^ miles deep, situated between the north- eastern point of the south-east entrance of Whirlpool reach and another point E. by S. ^ S. If miles from it. At half a mile within the entrance, where the bight is reduced to two-thirds of a mile in width, is a narrow bank half a mile long, E. by S. J S. and W. by N. ^ N., with 6 to 9 feet water on it, and marked by a beacon. There is a channel barely one cable wide, between each end of the bank and the shore, that to the westward having 7, and the other 5 fathoms ; these channels lead into a basin, with 10 to 3 fathoms water in it, between the bank and a shoal flat extending half a mile from the head of the bight. There is anchorage in 5 to 8 fathoms, sand and shells, between the south-east entrance of Whirlpool reach and the bank to the eastward of it. Exeter. — Swan point. — From 2 cables south-eastward of Supply rivulet, the river frontage of Exeter trends N.E. ^ N. one mile to the west point of a shallow bight, which extends E. ^ S. 4 cables to Swan point, a narrow projection with a spit extending a quarter of a mile to the north-east. Supply flats. — From the shore between Supply rivulet and Swan spit. Supply flats extend above one mile in a north-west direction ; the outer part, for a distance of half a mile, forming a spit 3 to 2 cables broad, with 12 to 9 feet water on it, and a beacon at 300 yards within its north end. There is a channel 3 to 2 cables wide between the flats and the south-west shore, carrying 8 to 3 fathoms water, to See chart, No. 1,080. Chap. VIII.] RIVER TAMAR. 609 within 4 cables of the entrance of Supply rivulet. There are 16 to 10 fathoms between Spring bay and the spit of Supply flats. The fairway between the spit of Supply flats and the point to the northward of it is a quarter of a mile wide, with 9 fathoms water ; thence to abreast of Swan point the channel is about one-third of a mile wide, with 5 to 7 and 14 fathoms water, and in which there is anchorage about N.N.W. 4 cables from Swan point. Dorchester. — ^Between the south-eastern point of Spring bay and another point E. by S. IJ miles from it, three shallow indentations of the northern shore form the river frontage of Dorchester. Egrg: islet lies N.W. by N. three-quarters of a mile from Swan point and one cable from the most prominent point of Dorchester ; it is 300 yards long, N.E. and S.W., and has a spit extending 4 cables to the westward, where it is marked by a beacon. This islet and spit are separated from the shoal which borders the shore by a channel one cable wide, having 9 to 15 feet water. From the point one-third of a mile eastward of Egg islet the north- eastern shore curves IJ miles, in a S.E. by E. | E. direction, to a fresh-water inlet, and thence S.E. three-quarters of a mile to a small stream, the south point of the mouth of which has a ledge of sunken rocks projecting a quarter of a mile from it. From this point a bay extends S. by W. ^ W. one mile, and is half a mile deep, with a stream flowing into its bight ; but it is inaccessible* on account of the shoal flat which fills the bay. From the southern extreme of this bay the Crescent shore extends S.W. by S. nearly IJ miles to its western point, and is bordered by a shoal one to 2 cables broad. The western shore from Swan point to a projection at S.S.E. one mile from it, forms a bay one-third of a mile deep ; but it is filled by a shoal flat. From the south-eastern point of this bay the shore trends nearly S. by E. IJ miles, and then sweeps round three-quarters of a mile in a S.S.W. direction to a small bight, 300 yards southward of which is Stony creek. The shore from Swan point to Stony creek is fronted by shoals,, the northern portion of which, for about three-quarters of a mile south-eastward of Swan point, extends nearly one mile from the bank ; but the outer edge from thence gradually closes southward to one cable off Stony creek. There are generally 3 to 12 feet water on See chart, No. 1 ,080. SO 11712 3 Q 610 TASMANIA.— NORTH COAST. [Chap. VIII. these shoals ; but the northern part consists of a bank, the edges of Avhich are marked by four beacons, standing respectively E. J S. half a mile ; E. | S. two-thirds of a mile ; S.E. by E. | E. three-quarters of a mile ; and S.E. half a mile, from Swan point. There is a small inlet between the north-west extreme of this bank and Swan point. The shore is also bordered by an inner bank about 1^ to 3 cables broad, on the outer edge of which are two beacons, one at S.E. by S. one mile, and the other S.S.E. | E. 1 ^ miles from Swan point. Swan bay. — From Egg islet the channel trends S.E. by E. ^ E. 1^ miles, and is one-third of a mile wide, with 14 to 4 fathoms, between the north-eastern shore and the shoals which extend from Swan point. The river then increases to one mile in width, forming Swan bay, which has 4 to 8 fathoms water, and affords convenient anchorage. After retaining nearly this width for one mile to the southward, the river gradually contracts to one-third of a mile abreast of Stony creek, where there are irregular depths of 16 to 5 fathoms. Mount Macquarie. — Upway. — Sigrnal station. — Mount Macquarie, N.E. by E. ^ E. nearly 3 miles from Swan point, rises from Upway to the height of 1,212 feet, and has a signal station on its summit. From Stony creek the river sweeps round S.E. and East 2| miles to Cimitere point, and is generally about one-third of a mile across, from shore, to shore ; the channel being one-quarter of a mile wide, with 12 to 7 fathoms water in the fairway. Rosevears is situated at Cimitere point, where there is a pier, and post and telegraph offices ; letters are received daily from Launceston. There is also communication by steamer and coach every week-day. Ships of fairly heavy draught can proceed up the river as far as this, further up the river becomes shallow and the channel narrow. It is advisable to moor when lying off Rosevears, on account of the limited space when swinging. From Cimitere point the south-west shore trends S.E. 2 J miles to the west side of the entrance of Muddy creek, which extends from thence N.E. by E. nearly half a mile, and is half a mile deep ; but it is filled by a shoal flat. The shore from Muddy creek trends See chart, No. 1,080. Chap. VIII.] RiVER TAMAR. 611 N.E. by E. about three-quarters of a mile, to 3 cables south-east of Pedder's point. Between Cimitere point and Muddy creek the shore is bordered by a shoal one to 2 cables broad, and the range of Stony and Pleasant hills extends from Stony creek along shore to Muddy creek. Nelson shoals. — The shore from a quarter of a mile northward of Cimitere point trends E. by N. 2 miles to a small stream flowing from the eastward, and thence the shore trends S.S.E. ^ E. IJ miles to Pedder's point. The bight thus formed is filled by Nelson shoals, which extend so far towards the opposite shore as to contract the river channel to the width of 3 or 4 cables, with 4 to 2 fathoms water. From about IJ miles south-eastward of Cimitere point the channel round to Pedder's point is only one to 2 cables wide ; but the depth of water ranges from 2J to 6 fathoms. The edge of Nelson shoals is marked by beacons. From Pedder's point the river takes a semicircular course 2^ miles to Barnards or Muddy Plains creek, on the eastern side of the river, E.S.E. 1| miles from Pedder's point. The south-eastern shore of this part of the river is bordered by a shoal one to 1^ cables broad ; but the north-eastern, or Crescent shore, is steep-to. The channel from Pedder's point to Barnards creek is one to 2 cables wide, with 2 to 9 fathoms water ; but from the north point of the mouth of the creek a 9-feet spit projects 2 cables, leaving a channel only one cable wide, with 2J fathoms water, between it and the western shore. On either side of this part of the river there are hills of no great elevation, between which the land appears low and swampy. From Barnards creek the river trends S.S.E. three-quarters of a mile, with a width of one-third of a mile, and depths of 2| to 4 fathoms, hence the river expands to three-quarters of a mile in width for about IJ miles in a S.E. by S. direction, when it trends E.S.E. IJ miles ; its width gradually decreasing from three-quarters of a mile, midway, to 300 yards abreast of the south-eastern of two small jetties, 4 cables apart, projecting from the north-east shore. From a low point one mile S.S.E. of Barnards creek the north- eastern shore of Tamar river curves S.E. ^ S. 1 J miles to a point projecting 2 cables from Green hillock. From this point the shore trends nearly S.E. by E. ^ E. a little more than a mile to the south- eastern of the two jetties, just noticed. The south-western shore is low, and from about 1^ miles S. by E. of Barnards creek, curves ^e chart, No. 1,080. SO 11712 2 Q 2 612 TASMANIA.— NORTH COAST. [Chap. VIII. uniformly 2^ miles in a S.S.E. and easterly direction to abreast of the south-eastern jetty. This broad part of the river, from about one mile southward of Barnards creek to the south-eastern jetty, is mostly filled with shoal flats, through which the river is reduced to a very narrow winding channel, with so little as 6 feet water in it, passing between Green hillock and Pig islet. This islet, which is about 300 yards in extent, is the north-eastern of two or three small wooded islands lying westward of Green hillock. The river channel from nearly one mile south of Barnards creek trends S.E. by E. three-quarters of a mile towards Green hillock, and is a quarter of a mile wide, with 9 feet to 3 fathoms water. At half a mile N.N.W. of Pig islet this part of the channel is nearly blocked up by a rocky patch, which is marked by a beacon ; the sides of the channel one cable to the north-east and south-west of the rocky patch being also marked by beacons. From a quarter of a mile north-east- ward of Pig islet the channel trends South between the islet and Green hillock, about one mile, or to within a quarter of a mile of the south-western shore, when the channel sweeps round to the east- ward, and then turns to the south-east close to the two jetties. From a quarter of a mile north-eastward of Pig islet to about the same distance southward of the south-eastern jetty the channel varies from 100 to 200 yards in width, with irregular depths of 3 to 1| and 4 fathoms, and 6 to 9 feet near the jetties. The numerous buoys and beacons which mark the channel are best understood by reference to the plan. From a quarter of a mile southward of the south-eastern jetty the river trends S.E. ^ E. three-quarters of a mile, S.W. by S. two-thirds of a mile, and S.E. one mile to the junction of the North and South Esk rivers, at Launceston. The channel varies from one to 3 cables in width, with 3 fathoms to G feet water.* Vessels dniwing 18 feet can proceed almost as far as Launceston at high water, but if drawing more than 14 feet 6 inches Avould probably touch the mud at low water. A basin has been dredged off Town point (immediately opposite Launceston), 400 feet long and 50 feet broad, to 20 feet at low water, and head and stern moorings have been laid down. A range of woody hills extends from Barnards creek nearly 6 miles to Launceston. Between these hills and the river the land is low, * The river has been dredged in places since the above description was written, and dredging operations are being carried on in various parts of the river, particu- larly above Rosevears, where the cuttinps and beacons differ from chart No. 1,080. See chart. No. 1,080. Chap. VIII.] LAUNCESTOX. 613 and to the northward swampy ; but between Green hillock and a lagoon at one mile northward of Launceston, the north-eastern shore is hilly. DIRECTIONS up the Tamar river from Georgetown ; — haul close round Garden islet, to avoid Middle shoal, and having run between Porpoise rock and the western shore, proceed S.E. | S. (S. 37° E.), so as to pass midway between Anchor and Effingham points ; and after clearing Shag rock — if not required to anchor in the quarantine ground — steer for the north point of Middle isle, thence north-eastward into Long reach ; and having fully opened its south-eastern trend, steer through it, keeping nearer the north- eastern shore than otherwise, to avoid the shoals and spit which project from the south-western shore. It is not prudent to proceed beyond Middle isle without a pilot. The pilots prefer going up on the flood and coming down on the ebb, as the tide then suits better for rounding the Porpoise and Whirlpool rocks. Going up on the flood they pass to the westward of the Porpoise rock, but on coming down with the ebb they, as a rule, pass between it and Roundabout point, which is steep-to. LAUNCESTON, the second city in Tasmania, is situated at the head of Tamar river, which, following the winding course of the river, is 35 miles from the sea. It lies in a valley enclosed with hills, and the lofty mount Barrow, 4,644 feet high, is 12 miles to the eastward. The town has wide streets, excellent public buildings, an extensive public library, and large public gardens. Large vessels are prevented from approaching close to the town by a bar, upon which there are generally about 15 feet at high water. Vessels of 17 or 18 feet draught can go within half a mile of the town, below the bar. The mail steamers between Melbourne and Launceston draw 15 feet, and go alongside the pier at Launceston ; they frequently have to wait for tide at Rosevears. Launceston is connected with Hobart, Scottsdale, and Ulverstone by railway, and there is a telegraph station. Steam vessels run to Melbourne thrice a week ; to the north-west and north-east coasts weekly ; and to Sydney fortnightly. The population in 1891 was 17,208 persons. Trade. — The principal imports are — manufactured goods, tea sugar, wine, &c. ; and the exports — wool, oats, fodder, gold, silver, tin, lead, coal, timber, potatoes, fruit, and bark. In 1894 vessels of a tonnage of 217,044 entered and cleared at Launceston. See chart, No, 1,080. 614 TASMANIA. — NORTH COA.ST. [Chap. VIII. Wharves and pier. — The following particulars are given in Lloyd's Eegisier 1893-94. Queen's Wharf (Marine Board) : — Length ------ 2,058 feet. Depth alongside at ordinary springs | ^'^^ ^^*^''' ^^i ^^^*- 1 Low water, 10 feet. This wharf cannot be reached at high water ordinary springs by vessels drawing more than 19 feet. There is one crane to lift 7 or 8 tons. Town pier (Marine Board) : — Length ------ 550 feet. Depth alongside at ordinary springs | ^'^^ ^^^*®^' ^^^ ^^®^- ( Low water, 12 feet. The pier cannot be reached by vessels drawing more than 19J feet at high water ordinary springs. Market wharf (Marine board) : — Length ---.-. 990 feet. Depth alongside at ordinary springs | ^^^^ "^^^^^^ ^^ ^^®*- t Low water, nil. The wharf cannot be reached at high water ordinary springs by vessels drawing more tlian 8 feet. The railways are connected with the wharves. A steam tug, maintained by the Marine Board, is available for towing vessels, at moderate rates ; the signal for the tug is the rendezvous or chequered flag, hoisted where best seen. When this signal is made by a vessel in the offing, entering the port, the tug, if at .Launceston, will be telegraphed for on that vessel's account. « Water. — Fresh water may be obtained by applying to the Marine Board ; it can be sent off in their tug. Floating* dock. — There is a floating dock at Launceston, capable of receiving vessels of 200 tons, or 132 feet in length, 22 feet beam, and 7 feet draught. In Georgetown cove and other places on the banks of the river, vessels of considerable size may be safely placed upon the hard to be cleaned or examined. See chart, No. 1,080. Chap. VIII.] FLINDERS POINT. 615 Pilotage for sailing vessels at the port of Launceston is Is. per ton inward or outward ; for steam vessels Sd. per ton each way ; no single act of pilotage to exceed 30^. or b3 less than 5?. Vessels anchoring below Georgetown, charged one-third pilotage ; at or above Georgetown, and below Whirlpool reach, one-half pilotage. Vessels arriving and sailing in ballast or putting in to seek freight, or from stress of weather, and not breaking bulk, are exempt from all port charges, except only those of pilotage in cases where the services of a pilot have been actually required and received. Tides and tidal streams.— It is high water, full and change, at the pilot station at llh. 10m., springs rise 10 feet, neaps 7^ feet ; at Georgtitown, at Oh. 5m., springs rise 10 feet, and neaps 4 feet. The rise is irregular, the greatest observed being 10 and the least 4 feet. The highest tide noticed was during the neaps, caused by a strong north-west gale. The flood stream runs 5h. 50m., and the ebb 6h. 25m., at a rate varying from 2 to 5 knots, according as the river is confined or open. The ebb stream setting round Low head into the bay to the eastward drifts vessels in that direction. At 3 miles in the offing the flood stream runs W.N.W., one to 2 knots. At Launceston it is high water, full and change, at Ih. Om. ; spring rise 12 J feet. During winter, after rains, the stream sets down for days together, at the rate of one to 3 knots. THE NORTH COAST of Tasmania from Flinders point curves nearly W. | S. 34 miles to Round hill point, and there are 10 to 15 fathoms water 2 miles . off it. There are not many projecting points ; but this coast is intersected by no fewer than six rivers and one creek, all of which, except the creek, are accessible to vessels of 80 to 200 tons. These rivers flow through a hilly country, which is tolerably wooded to the back mountains. Upon this elevated range are many variously shaped summits ; among which are mount Roland, 4,047 feet high, bearing S.E. | S., distant 27 miles, and Black bluff, 4,381 feet high, S. | E. 24 miles, from Round hill point. But the most worthy of notice of these mountains appears to be Valentine peak, S. by W. | W. 21 miles from the point ; this peak is a bare mass of granite 4,100 feet high, and as it glistens in the first beams of the morning sun like an immense spire, it becomes tha most remarkable hill feature on the north coast of Tasmania. From Friend point, Flinders point bears W. | N. distant 2| miles. .<^6'e chart. Nc. 1.070. 616 TASMANIA.— NORTH COAST. [Chap. VIII, and the coast between the points forms a bay having three bights, behind the south-eastern of which is a lagoon of fresh water. The south-eastern, and apparently greater part of the bay is fronted by a continuation of the shoal flat which projects from Friend point, with its 3-fathoms edge extending two-thirds of a mile from the shore. A small bight in the edge of the flat, close to West reef, affords anchorage in 3 to 5 fathoms, sheltered from all winds between W. by S. round by South, to N.E. by E., with the dry part of West reef bearing W. by N., distant half a mile. There is a detached patch on the east side of Flinders point, with three feet water on it, lying about E. I N. two-thirds of a mile from the eastern part of Flinders point. There is a channel above two-thirds of a mile Avide, with 6 to 8 fathoms water, between this bay and Hebe reef. FLINDERS POINT is a headland projecting two-thirds of a mile from the line of coast, and is nearly half a mile broad ; a shoal, with dry and covered rocks on it, extends a quarter of a mile north- ward from the point. Badger head and Asbestos hills.— Badger head, S.W. 3^ miles from Flinders point, and another projection IJ miles south- ward of Badger head, are rocky and form the north-western termination of the Asbestos hills, in which the mineral of that name is found ; the hills are from 1,240 to 1,350 feet high, and in clear weather are conspicuous from seaward. From the rocky projection southward of Badger head a low coast curves in a S.W. ^ W. direction 4 miles to a spit forming the south-east side of the entrance of port Sorell. PORT SORELL.— The north-western entrance head of port Sorell, which lies S.W. by W. ^ W. 5^ miles from Badger head, projects above a mile from the line of coast, and is fringed by a reef of rocks. At about a mile south-eastward of the head is Carbuncle islet, which is connected with the shore by the reef, and forms the west po\^it of the entrance over the bar, w^here there are 6 to 7 feet water ; the bar does not shift, and the only unseen danger is a rock on the east side, with an iron beacon upon it. From the bar the channel trends between the shoals, 1^ miles in a S.S.E. direction, with 2 to 5 fathoms, close up to the south-eastern entrance point ; above this a very narrow channel turns about 1 J miles southward and eastward into the port, where there are 2 to 4 fatlioms water^ between the Sisters islet Chap. Tin.] PORT SORELL. 617 on the west, and a broad, but shallow creek on the east side, trending N.E. by E. nearly 2 miles ; the east point of the Sisters islet had a temporary beacon on it. Burgees. — This township, which is situated on the west side of port Sorell, about 2J miles within the entrance, has an extensive jetty, with tramway and trucks, for the purpose of loading vessels. DIRECTIONS. — In approaching port Sorell, it is usual to make the land a little to the westward of the port, as the wind during nearly nine months of the year, prevails from N.W., West and S.W., and there is almost a constant current setting to the eastward. To proceed for the fairway, avoid the beaconed rock on the east side of the entrance, pass near Carbuncle islet, leaving it on the starboard hand ; keep the houses of Burges right ahead, and run between the east point of the Sisters islet and a black buoy which lies off it ; after which anchor, in 4 fathoms, off the jetty. Rubicon river, which flows into port Sorell, is navigable for vessels of more than 100 tons for a distance of 7 miles from the entrance ; but its narrow winding channel requires the aid of an experienced person as a pilot, who may be obtained on the spot. Heidelberg' is a township situated near Green creek, a shipping place about 8 miles up the river. Supplies. — The exports of port Sorell consist of posts, rails, and paling, fruit, farm and daity produce, some of which is shipped at Heidelberg. There is a shipbuilding yard in port Sorell, where vessels have been launched equal to any in the colony for strength, model, and workmanship. The timber at this port is of excellent quality, and vessels may be repaired at the current rates. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, in port Sorell, at llh. 35m. ; springs rise, 8 to 9 feet. THE COAST.— From the north-western head of port Sorell the coast trends S.W. by W. 7^ miles to the entrance of port Frederick, and may be approached within a mile in 4 to 7 fathoms, except at about 4^ miles westward of port Sorell head, where the Horse-shoe reef extends 1^ miles from the shore See chart, No. 1,695a. 618 TASMANIA.— NORTH COAST. [Chap. VIII. Hgg and Wrigrht islets are two rocks, one on the northern, and the other on the south-western part of Horse-sho9 reef, which consists of detached dry and sunken rocks. PORT FREDERICK and MERSEY RIVER. — Port Frederick is by far the best harbour between port Dalrymple and Circular head, which lies nearly 70 miles to the westward of that port ; it is easy of access to vessels of 300 tons. Mersey river, which flows into port Frederick, is navigable for about 6 miles. The entrance to port Frederick may be easily known by its western head, Mersey bluff, being high land covered with foliage, except the extreme point, or bluff, upon which is the lighthouse. A reef, discernible from the broken water on it, projects a con- siderable distance from the east side ; and there is a bar across the entrance, consisting of hard shingle, which is not known to shift. The depth of water on the most shallow part of the bar,* at low tide is 6J feet ; at springs there are sometimes 19 feet water ; and an average depth of 16 or 17 feet on the bar at high water, may be depended upon throughout the year. There is a white buoy moored on the bar. LIGHT. — The lighthouse on Mersey bluff is 35 feet high and painted white. It exhibits at 122 feet above high water a fixed light of the fourth order, which may be seen from a distance of 16 miles in clear weather. The light shows white through an arc of 105° seaward, and red through an arc of 35° on each side of the white light. The northern limits of the red light pass within one mile of the Horse-shoe reef to the eastward, and within five-eighths of a mile from the rocks off Don bluff to the westward. Pilot. — Pilots are always to be had and communication can be made with the lighthouse by the commercial code ; the pilot boards all vessels requiring his services, outside the w^hite buoy ; therefore, anchor outside the bar, when the weather permits ; or stand off and on, keeping the pilot-jack flying at the mast head until boarded. When the weather does not admit the pilot to come outside, his boat remains in mid-channel with the pilot flag flying. * It is stated in the Australian Haudhooh for 1896, that the bar entrance has been deepened to 16 feet at low water. See chart, No. l,695