;y of California 
 ?rn Regional 
 iry Facility
 
 I 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 
 AT LOS ANGELES 
 
 
 i.\V
 
 OWE N's 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 INTO 
 
 DIFFERENT PART'S OF EUROPE, 
 In the Years 1791 and 1792. 
 
 VOL. I.
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 INTO 
 
 DIFFERENT P4RTS OF EUROPE, 5 
 
 IN THE YEARS 179! AND 1792. 
 WITH 
 
 FAMILIAR REMARKS 
 
 ON 
 
 PLACES MEN^- AND MANNERS, 
 
 BY JOHN OWEN, A.M. 
 
 LATE FELLOW OF CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE. 
 
 Mores, ei Studio, tt Populos Vl RG. Georg. Lib. 4. 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES. 
 VOL. I. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED FOR T. CADELL JUN. AND W. DAVIES, 
 (SUCCESSORS TO MR. CADELL,) IN THE STRAND. 
 
 1796.
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 1 
 
 K^ 1 
 
 TT is a fubjedl of equal notoriety and 
 regret, that prefaces have funk into 
 general difufe, or loft to a great degree 
 their jUft and original character. The 
 abrupt appearance of an author be- 
 fore the bar of the public is an enter- 
 prize of moll anxious uncertainty. 
 He feems to be bound by a fort of re- 
 fpeci, to prefent fome credentials or 
 
 SS fubmit to fome formalities, before he 
 
 <r 
 
 ^ prefume upon the ready difpofition of 
 
 fo auguil a judicature to hear and de- 
 .termine his merits. In addition to 
 that duty which refpecl: impofes, a 
 more important claim attaches upon 
 VOL. r. a him, 
 
 275490
 
 ii PREFACE, 
 
 him, from the abfolute neceflity of 
 fome preliminary arrangements, for 
 the purpofes of a fair and equit- 
 able decifion. Yet fuch is the impa- 
 tience of the bulk of readers, that all 
 which intervenes between the title 
 and the work is confidered as an ob- 
 flacle in the way of their progrefs, 
 and treated as a ilavifti compliance 
 with an obfolete ceremony. The in- 
 fluence of this judgment ftops not 
 with readers. It relaxes the ftridlnefs 
 of authors themfelves ; and induces a 
 habit of writing with loofenefs thofe 
 very preliminaries, which feem to de- 
 mand the moil cautious precifion an 
 indolence natural to the human mind, 
 which is rarely brought to execute 
 with care, what is not likely to be re- 
 garded with attention. 
 
 It
 
 PREFACE. Hi 
 
 It may, however, be affirmed, that 
 the majority of cafes in which the 
 merits of writers have been miilaken 
 by the public, might be fairly referred 
 to thofe defects in the outfet of their 
 acquaintance, which a due regard to 
 fome prefatory fteps would have fuffi- 
 ciently fupplied. Works of travel 
 ftand particularly expofed to the dan- 
 ger of an erroneous judgment. Pre- 
 fenting in many inftances a picture of 
 the times, and embracing a variety of 
 circumftances and events, they may 
 be conlidered as bearing upon modern 
 hiftory ; and therefore, like that, en- 
 countering the jealoufies, fufpicions, 
 and prejudices of minds varioufly in- 
 terefted, and affected by different, and 
 yet exifting, impreflions. Thefe obfta- 
 cles can only be with any colour of ex- 
 pectation diminifhed, by the eftablifli- 
 a 2 merit
 
 iv PREFACE, 
 
 ment of fome premifes, which the 
 reader may adopt, and to which he 
 may refer, as a rule for interpreting 
 the author's mind on points of cri- 
 tical and delicate decifion. 
 
 The volumes of travel with which 
 the public are now prefented profefs 
 to ftand on more hazardous ground, 
 in refpect to a fair and equitable judg- 
 ment, than any fimilar work with 
 which they might be compared; and 
 the author is unwilling to commit 
 them to the world, without anticipat- 
 ing, in fome premonitory remarks, the 
 leading objections by which they may 
 be attacked. 
 
 i. It may be urged, that books of 
 travel have been greatly multiplied, 
 and that the route which the author 
 purfues has in it no chance of novelty. 
 To this the author, with little varia- 
 i tion,
 
 PREFACE. r 
 
 tion, concedes. He is ready to admit, 
 that the cabinet is already fupplied 
 with a numerous catalogue of enter- 
 taining travellers ; he is ready to ad- 
 mit, that the outline of his tour differs 
 in very few refpects from the ordinary 
 track of fafhionable travel ; and that 
 the places alluded to in the fucceed- 
 ing volumes are, with few excep- 
 tions, fuch as have been repeatedly 
 viewed and repeatedly defcribed. The 
 attention of the public to travelling 
 journals has however, he pre fumes, 
 not yet been fatiated by all that has 
 been, nor will probably be fatisfied by 
 all that may be faid, of foreign coun- 
 tries and foreign manners. The ne- 
 ceffity of fupplying fome fpecies of 
 light and unelaborate reading is felt 
 by all who are acquainted with the 
 public tafte : and no productions are, 
 a 3
 
 vi PREFACE, 
 
 generally fpeaking, more readily di^ 
 gefted, than thofe which conduct the 
 fire-fide traveller through an extenfive 
 tract of country without diflurbing 
 him from his arm-chair; and intro- 
 duce him to all the beauties of a 
 country without expofing him to any 
 of its ftorms. Relying upon this pa 
 fion for travelling journals, and the 
 endlefs variety of an aftive mind, the 
 author engaged in a correfpondence 
 for furnifhing exprefsly the materials 
 of the prefent volumes. Whether he 
 has rightly judged of the public feel- 
 ings, and his own powers will be 
 hereafter decided. 
 
 A fecond objection may probably 
 arife, from the interval which has 
 been fuffered to pafs between the 
 clofing of the Letters and the period of 
 publication. In accounting for this it 
 
 is
 
 PREFACE. vii 
 
 is necefTary to remark, that a confider- 
 able portion of the Letters had been 
 transferred to private hands for the fe- 
 curity of conveyance, at the time of the 
 author's proceeding upon his expedi- 
 tion into Auilria ; and that the non~ 
 arrival of thefe at the period expected 
 very confiderably delayed the compiU 
 ation. The publication of Mr. Grey's 
 tour at nearly the fame period was 
 alfo a ground of difcouragement. If to 
 this be added the obftruction occa-> 
 fioned to the procefs of printing by the 
 author's diftance from the metropolis 
 and the prefs, the hiflory of this delay 
 will have been completely given. The 
 reafons for fpecifying thefe caufes 
 with fo much minutenefs, will be fuf- 
 ficiently obvious to thofe who are ac- 
 quainted with the bufy inlinuations 
 of calumny and malice. Events of 
 a 4 late
 
 viii PREFACE, 
 
 late occurrence have fplit fociety into 
 fo many factions, that jealoufies are 
 now excited, againfl which too much 
 precaution cannot be employed. The 
 author expects to hear it infinuated, as 
 it has been already candidly rumoured, 
 that the publication was delayed for 
 the convenience of adapting it to 
 the humour of the times. If the cir- 
 cumftances already enumerated had 
 not fufficiently done away this imput- 
 ation, the very difficulty itfelf of 
 effecting fuch a tafk, in the varying 
 circumftances of the prefent period, 
 would difcover the folly of the charge. 
 Tothefe, however if thefe fhould yet 
 be inefficient- the author is ready to 
 annex his mod ferious declaration ; that 
 in no inftance, the moft trivial parti- 
 culars alone excepted, has he fhaped 
 or accommodated the original fpirit 
 
 and
 
 PREFACE. ix 
 
 and train of the journal ; and that a 
 confiderable number of the Letters 
 have been printed, with no other al- 
 teration, than that of a literal or ver- 
 bal correction. 
 
 A third objection may poffibly arife 
 in the minds of fome, from the inter- 
 nal character of the Letters them felves, 
 the cireumftances of which they treat, 
 and the unreferved rreedom with 
 which thefe circumftances are treated. 
 To this it may be replied, that the 
 author has availed himfelf, in travel- 
 ling and in writing, of that liberty 
 which has in fuch cafes ever been 
 deemed admiffible : and that as he 
 travelled to fee and report, he con- 
 ceives that he could only do juftice 
 to himfelf, the public, and his fub- 
 ject, by depicting, as he has done, 
 manners and fentirnents in their na- 
 tural
 
 x PREFACE, 
 
 tural colours; and exprefling, on juft 
 occafions, the unduTembled feelings 
 of his own mind. If the reader main- 
 tains a flrict attention in adjudging 
 thefe Letters to the particular periods 
 in which they were written; if he 
 coniiders the circumftances of the 
 times and the ftate of public opi- 
 nion ; the author is convinced that 
 his enthufiafm will be pronounced to 
 have been of a venial, if not of a com-* 
 mendable character. But events of 
 fuch variety, and in many particulars 
 of fuch importance, have taken place 
 during the lapfe of the three laft years, 
 that the mind will not, without fome 
 difficulty, acquire that temper with 
 xvhich ic ought to perufe the reports 
 of a preceding period. Labouring 
 under the influence of fome recenc 
 impreffions, the reader will probably 
 
 be
 
 PREFACE. xi 
 
 be led to confound thofe dates which 
 ought to be kept religiouily diftinct ; 
 and thus condemn, by a reference 
 to fubfequent tranfa&ions, what in 
 the then circumftances he might have 
 been forward to approve. It muft not 
 be diflembled, that the largeft portion 
 of the author's anxiety for the fate of 
 his work is founded in an apprehen- 
 fion of this dangerous, yet almofl in^ 
 evitable, confufion in the public mind 
 of dates and feelings. For his own 
 part, he is free to confefs, that though 
 his mind has been affected with the 
 moft fenfible emotion at the horrors 
 which have deformed the name of 
 Liberty^ he yet can fee no reafon for 
 reverling all the maxims of the wifeft 
 men and the beft times ; he ftill can 
 contemplate it in its genuine charac- 
 iters of benignity and order as the 
 6 friend
 
 xii PREFACE, 
 
 friend of man, and the happieft ce- 
 ment of civil fociety. Not all the 
 diforders which have deluged Europe 
 fince the ^era of the French revolution 
 have induced him to depart from the 
 principles* which fupported his ori- 
 ginal admiration of this extraordinary 
 event. The downfal of limited mo- 
 narchy, the irruption of Jacobinifm, 
 BrilTotinifm, and all the modifications 
 of republican tyranny, have cruelly 
 inverted the original picture ; buc 
 the very hoftility which thefe declared 
 againft the fr-Jl reformers, and which 
 themfelves have experienced from 
 the prefent lefs outrageous and de- 
 mocratic rulers, is an argument in 
 favour of the firft legiflative aiTembly, 
 which cannot be defeated by any 
 fpecies of regular and ingenuous rea- 
 
 * Vide Preface to Retrofpe<a. 
 
 foning.
 
 PREFACE. xiii 
 
 Ibning. The evils which have been 
 ingrafted upon this convenient ftock, 
 the factions of diforder and equali- 
 zation, are indifputably lefTons of in- 
 ftructive caution againft hafty enthu- 
 fiafm and rafh experiment. A torrent 
 of political iicentioufnefs has certainly 
 poured in upon the peaceful and pru- 
 dent inftitutions of fociety; and thofe 
 who occupy refponfible fituations are 
 loudly called upon to fupport the tot- 
 tering pillars of civil fubordination. 
 In the difcharge, however, of this duty, 
 no compromife ought to be made of 
 truth and juftice ; nor fliould zeal 
 tranfport us to criminate, what pru- 
 dence may have forbidden us to ad- 
 mire. So much it feemed expedient 
 to fay for the publication of fenti- 
 ments, whofe bearings upon prefent 
 opinion might elfe be expofed to mif- 
 
 conftruction.
 
 xiv PREFACE, 
 
 confirmation. The author is aware that 
 expreflions may have been curforily 
 employed, which the faftidious fcru- 
 pies of fome might wifh amended or 
 expunged. But he cannot difcover 
 any fentiment, with which a candid 
 mind can, or a Britifli mind ought, to 
 be offended. His opinions on the 
 leading political changes are already 
 before the public ; and thefe will af- 
 ford a fuificient clue for unravelling 
 and reconciling what might elfe ap- 
 pear myfterious and inconfiftent. 
 
 After fo much faid by way of anti- 
 cipation, it may now be neceffary to 
 fay fomething of the execution. The 
 Letters are fhort, for the commodiouf- 
 nefs of detached reading; and as they 
 were in moft inftances difpofed in 
 packets containing a number, they 
 were originally conftructed upon this 
 
 concife
 
 PREFACE. xv 
 
 concife model, in order to fupport the 
 analogy of chapters in a regular jour- 
 nal. Dates are for the mod part fu- 
 perfcribed; but where this is omitted, 
 the Letter is to be confidered as form- 
 ing a part of a packet, and referred to 
 the date of the preceding. As they 
 are intended for the amufement of 
 the dome ft ic traveller, they are not 
 charged with any fyilematic calcula- 
 tions of diftance or coin, or any cri- 
 tical adjuftment of names and hif- 
 tories. Charts and Itineraries are beft 
 fuited to the minutenefs of the firft, 
 and profefled difquifitions to the gravity 
 of the laft. The ftyle, it is hoped, will 
 be found not wholly unfuiting the 
 familiarity of the occafions ; and the 
 errors and redundancies if fuch 
 fhould appear will probably be view- 
 ed with fome portion of indulgence, 
 
 when
 
 xvi PREFACE, 
 
 .when it is confidered, that the Letters 
 were written in the warmth of youth- 
 ful impetuofity and that it would 
 have been a breach of tacit faith to 
 introduce any further emendations, 
 than thofe which are juftified by ufage 
 and acknowledged licence.. That the 
 volumes have appeared at all, and 
 that they have not appeared in a lefs 
 correct Hate, are owing to the flatter- 
 ing encouragement and the critical 
 fervices of W. Belfham Efq. to whom 
 thefe Letters were originally addreifed^ 
 and whofe judicious revilion they had 
 the good fortune to receive. In re- 
 vealing this circumftance, the author 
 is but difcharging a debt of gratitude 
 to a man, of whofe character while 
 the public may reafonably differ his 
 friends can entertain but one opinion. 
 The foundnefs of his judgment, and 
 
 the
 
 PREFACE. *vii 
 
 the accuracy of his tafte,were a fecu- 
 rity to the author for the juftnefs of 
 his corrections; and a friendfhip of 
 long and ftrift familiarity, undifturbed 
 by the divifions of politics and theo- 
 logy, have afforded him occafions of 
 general improvement, which it is 
 equally his duty and his pride to ac- 
 knowledge. 
 
 In taking leave of the reader the 
 author has only to requeft, that a can- 
 did diftinftion may be made in peruf- 
 ing his volumes, between the caft of 
 his mind at the period of. his travels, 
 and that which he now profeffes to 
 have received. The demands of a 
 lituation the moft grave and import- 
 ant have now engaged him in duties 
 and concerns, which neceflarily oc- 
 cupy and folemnize his thoughts; 
 and to the faithful difcharge of which, 
 VOL. i. b he
 
 xviii P .R E F A C E. 
 
 he is delirous of rendering the expe- 
 rience he has acquired, in every re- 
 fpeft fubfervient. He cannot there- 
 fore confign his volumes to the pub- 
 lic, without cOnfeffing, that the Let- 
 ters difcover, in particular inftances, a 
 levity, which in his prefent chara&er 
 he fliould feel himfelf bound to con- 
 demn. Amongft thofe errors in the 
 progrefs of his tour which he has 
 rao& to regret, and with which the 
 public have the moft concern, are the 
 little refpeA for the folemnities of 
 the Sabbath, and the rare acknow- 
 ledgment of a beneficent Providence. 
 Thefe it is judged expedient the ra- 
 ther to mention; as they are errors of 
 eafy growth, and which it is of the 
 firft importance to difcountenance and 
 
 deftroy. 
 
 The
 
 P R E F AC E.- xix 
 
 The cuflom of travelling on the 
 Sabbath is of great aild notorious 
 prevalence r but certainly the law, 
 which devotes it to religious offices, 
 is broken by fuch abufe. The loo fe- 
 nefs of Catholic,- forms no juit prece- 
 dent for an equal licence: in Pfoteftant^ 
 difcipline. Vice is the fame on an 
 ifland or continent, and cannot alter 
 its nature by any change of meridian. 
 The fame rule will with equal ftricl:- 
 nefs apply, to the general views of 
 events and circumftances. For if it 
 be an obligation of Chriftian piety to 
 afcribe the turns of human felicity to 
 the wifdom and benevolence of the 
 Deity, this acknowledgment ought in 
 juftice to pervade the details of a long 
 and eccentric tour, befet with hazards, 
 and interfperfed with adventure. 
 
 b 2 With
 
 xx PREFACE. 
 
 With thefe preliminaries, the author 
 is content to meet the public eye. 
 Convinced that the fentence of the 
 world, when fairly tolle&ed, is rarely 
 unjuft, he has endeavoured to furnifh 
 in the remarks premised, the means of 
 eftabliihing an equitable judgment. 
 
 Speak of me as I am nothing extenuate, 
 Or fet down ought in malice 
 
 Such is the rule, by which, as he 
 Ihould judge of others, he wifhes 
 himfelf to be judged. 
 
 JlNVARY 7, 1796.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 VOLUME THE FIRST. 
 
 L E T T E R I. 
 
 and plan of correfpondence Jlated 
 Variety afpecies of originality. Page I 
 
 LETTER II. 
 
 irft fenfatlon of a traveller Fre neb c oafl 
 Evils of the antlent fyjlem-r- Profpeft of 
 
 Jinal good from . the prefint- diforders 
 Eulogium on the. new laws, - 4 
 
 LETTER III. 
 
 Qft end Ghent -Particulars refpeElittg the 
 
 Gantois-**4fpeft of .the place Churches 
 
 b 3 St.
 
 xxii CONTENTS. 
 
 -St. GedukGriticifm and nature not 
 
 always agreed -DigreJJion on Belgic po- 
 litics. - Page 8 
 
 LETTER IV. 
 
 BruJJels Gloomy afpett in Holy Week 
 Strength of devotion Religious card' 
 party ProfpecJ of concluding penance 
 Confecration of days. - - 15 
 
 LETTER V. 
 
 Defcripfion of a religious ceremony Devout 
 character of common people Catholic pe- 
 nance transferable property. - 20 
 
 LETTER VI. 
 
 Penance concluded Gonfequent changes 
 Theatre Societies Comteffe de Choifeul 
 * Chivalry not extincJ at Bru/els " La- 
 " dies Club." 24 
 
 LETTER VII. 
 Politenefs exemplified. <*-\ 28
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER VIII. 
 Pbilofophy of the heart Inftanced in French 
 NobleJ/e Their conduct defcribed- Cha- 
 racier of a, Frenchman traced in his lan- 
 guage Condujion in favour of philofo- 
 pby. - - Page 30 
 
 LETTER IX. 
 
 National varieties four ce of travellers pleafure 
 Law of etiquette Fourth law of mo- 
 rals Defined Example to the rule 
 Relation of trifling occurrences defended. 35 
 
 LETTER X. 
 
 Park Palace of the arch- due hefs Pillage of 
 the revolutionifts Compared 'with mili- 
 tary law. - 39 
 
 LETTER XI. 
 
 Intention of quitting Bruffets Character of 
 Flemings Anecdote Conclujion againjl 
 them. - - - 43
 
 xxiv CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER XII. 
 
 Entrance upon Antwerp Church of Notre 
 Dame General Jlate of Antwerp T 
 Amujements Remains of revolutionary fpi- 
 rit Political eonjeQurej* Page 47 
 
 LETTER XIII. 
 
 ViciJJitudes in the hi/lory of Antwerp Siege 
 in 1585 Treaty of Munjler No change 
 in the fpirit of fanaticifm Portrait of 
 Van Eupen his machinations, defeat, and 
 fight. - r - $1 
 
 LETTER XIV. 
 From Antwerp to Breda Country defcribed 
 Contraft between Dutch and Aujlrian 
 Brabant Breda defcribed Rendezvous 
 of the late revolutionifts- Sketch offome 
 particulars previous to the capture of Bruf* 
 fels Apology for alluding to Belgic affairs^ 
 Different views of PruJJia and Hoi" 
 land. r ~ - J
 
 CONTENTS. **f 
 
 LETTER XV. 
 
 Convenience of travelling through Holland* 
 Entrance of a vej/el for Rotterdam Ab~ 
 rupt feparation-r-Agrtmens of land tra- 
 vellingPaJJage of the Biejbock Embar- 
 raffed route by land. - Page 64 
 
 LETTER XVI. 
 
 J)utch Cabaret Hollanders mduftrious 
 Route to Rotterdam Rotterdam defcribed 
 Statue of Erafmus- Prudent manage- 
 ment of literary honours* <- 72 
 
 BETTER XVII. 
 
 Peculiar character of Rotterdam Trade the 
 predominant concern Precipitate depart- 
 ure. . 77 
 
 LETTER XVIII. 
 
 Delft Its rarities The Hague Prome- 
 nade to Scheveling Village, &c. Houfes 
 Palace of the Stadtholder Churches, 
 
 Preachers^
 
 xxvi CONTENTS. 
 
 Preachers? &# The fair Drcfs of 
 Dutch girls Singular hats Apology for 
 f eventy. - - Page 80 
 
 LETTER XIX. 
 
 PaJJage to Amjlerdam Mode of travelling 
 Manners of Paffengen Ley den and 
 Haerlem Banks of Canals Firjl coup 
 d'csil of Amjlerdam Paufe from narra- 
 tion. - - - 86 
 
 ' 
 
 LETTER XX. 
 
 City of Amfterdam Eiiloglum on Its com- 
 mercial character Compared with its quon- 
 dam rival Antwerp- Aclivity of the city 
 Streets Stadthoufe Churches Carri- 
 
 ~ ages Bridge Proofed account of a con- 
 \ trajledfcene. - -90 
 
 LETTER XXI. 
 
 *Tfip to Broek View of Amjlerdam from 
 BuyJifloodt^-Approach to Broek Broek 
 defcribed Elegant neatncfs of the houfes 
 
 Grotefque
 
 CONTENTS. xxvii 
 
 Grotefque forms of the gardens, &c. In- 
 tenor of the boufes. Singular cujloms 
 Difficulty of accounting for this neatnefs 
 Return to Amjlerdam. - P a g e 96 
 
 LETTER XXII. 
 
 Pajjage to Utrecht 'The city defcribed 
 Glance at Its hi/lory Anecdote from Du- 
 clos Route to Bommel Bois-lc-duc - 
 Country defcribed Preparation for ad- 
 vancing. - . - 103 
 
 LETTER XXIII. 
 
 Neatnefs of Hollanders confidercd Princi- 
 pally refolvable into necejjity No great 
 perfonal neatnefs Hollanders reputed 
 knavi/Ii Accounted for Different cha- 
 racier of towns and villages Vindication 
 of the lajl Religious anecdotes Conclufwn 
 in favour of their moral virtues. 109
 
 xxviii CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER XXIV. 
 
 Singular filiation of Holland confidered* 
 Goldfmitb referred to Samenefs in the 
 qfpecJ of its towns Gardens criticifed 
 Uncouthnefs in thefc conjiftent with their 
 general habits. Page 1 1 j 
 
 LETTER XXV. 
 
 Reflections on the national policy of Holland 
 ' Orange cockade univcrfal Attempt to 
 account for this fubmiffion Political difaf- 
 feffion of Hollanders Spirit of Hollanders 
 unforgiving-r-Aneedote in proof. 123 
 
 LETTER XXVI. 
 
 Route from Bois-le-duc described Maef- 
 tricbt, its lively afpeft Liege ^ the picJurc 
 rcvcrfed Sfa, its fituation Salubrity of 
 its fpr ings not its only attraction Dear- 
 nefs of living- Water not the only beve- 
 fage at Spa. - 129
 
 LETTER XXVIL 
 
 Necejfity becoming a virtue Illuflrated in 
 the drefs of the female Hollander- Rule 
 applied to falubrious fprlngs~~- Advantage 
 of the union between amufement and regi- 
 men Its greater dif advantage Conclu- 
 fion again/I Spa* - Page 134 
 
 LETTER XXVIII. 
 Singular grant of indulgence Departure for 
 Aix Difgufting effecJ of invalids Ca- 
 tbedral) devotion of its voorfhippersSame 
 obferved at Jullers Arrival at Duffel- 
 dorf. - 138 
 
 LETTER XXIX. 
 
 Works of art bejl viewed in company Gal" 
 lery of the Eleffor Chamber of Rubens 
 Of Vander-Werf Italian " La lumlere 
 " vraiment foufflee" The 'wife andfoolifo 
 virgins Holy family Moral reflecJion. 
 
 142
 
 xxx CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER XXX. 
 
 Cologne defer ibed Bonn y palace , &c. 
 Pi3urefque route to Remangen-^- Improve- 
 ment of country to Andcrnacb Reflexion 
 on its ruins. - Page 147 
 
 LETTER XXXI. 
 
 Pof.tion ofCobkntzFairfex--drefs of men 
 Deception offcenery Two evils which 
 exercife a traveller s fortitude Singular 
 coachman Arrival at Mayencc. 152 
 
 LETTER XXXII. 
 
 Mayence defer ibed High mafs Table 
 d'Hote Abbes Comparifon of manners at 
 French^ Dutch^ and German tables Hau- 
 teur of Ecclefiqftics Worms Entrance 
 into Manheim Rendezvous of emigrants 
 Refactions on their fate. - r$6 
 
 LETTER XXXIII. 
 
 Difcipline of Manheim Entrance upon AI-* 
 face Goodeffefts of the revolution Gaiety 
 
 f
 
 CONTENT S. 
 
 of the people -Route to Strafboitrg Vejlige 
 ~ of corruption Religious procejfion Apo- 
 logy for defective defcriptions. Page 162 
 
 LETTER XXXIV. 
 
 The revolution confideredIts effects on lan- 
 guage ^Changes in Strafbourg -Contrqfl 
 between revolutionifts and emigrants Po- 
 litical afpeft of the place Contraft ofan- 
 tient and modern decrees Moore ?io pro- 
 phet. 167 
 
 LETTER XXXV. 
 
 Wanfof fpecie at Stra/bourg Dread of pa- 
 per-payment Orderly Jlate of inhabitants 
 National emolument Religious worfhip 
 protected Rencontre at Mulhaufen 
 Dialogue. - - .172 
 
 LETTER XXXVI. 
 
 Advance of clock at BaJIe Three kings 
 Beauty of the Rhine Cbarafttr of Eqfle 
 $ Simple
 
 xii CONTENTS; 
 
 Simple manners of inhabitants Beftfpc-* 
 ties of poetry. - Page 178 
 
 LETTER XXXVII. 
 
 Drefs of women Eulogium on Bafle Route 
 to Berne Mountainous varieties Sin- 
 gular pojition of ' BieJlal-Soleure Arrival 
 at Berne. - - 183 
 
 LETTER XXXVIII. 
 
 Gout for amufements inflanced in an emigrant 
 Pojition of Berne Political difcujjion 
 Inqui/itive character Route to Geneva. 
 
 188 
 
 LETTER XXXIX. 
 
 Pojition of Geneva Lake Its banks 
 Mountains Grand Saleve Petit Mole 
 Glaciers Aiguilles Mont Blanc - 
 Rhone and Arve. - 194 
 
 LETTER XL. 
 
 Effetl of King's fight on police of Geneva 
 on the people Commotion upon bis arrefl 
 
 4
 
 CONTENTS. xxxiii 
 
 Effeft upon Laufanne Promenades Po- 
 liticians " La belle democrats" Love- 
 Language. - Page 199 
 
 LETTER XLT. 
 
 Drefs, &c. Goutc Genevefe dinner Di- 
 vifions of Sunday evening Political ftate 
 of Geneva. - - 204 
 
 LETTER XLII. 
 Federation celebrated at Ferney Introduc- 
 tion to company Speech of Commandant 
 EnglifJ} toajled Compliment returned 
 EffefisGood order of the whole F<?/- 
 taires hwtfe. - 209 
 
 LETTER XLIII. 
 
 Laiifanne ^Environs Swell of lakt Cha- 
 racter of Laufanne Gibbon Firft view 
 of Glacier s -Projecl of tour. 217 
 
 LETTER XLIV. 
 
 Route to Cb amount Bonneville Singular 
 infer if tion Cajcade at kalencheCbar- 
 VOL, fc c Z-bancs
 
 xxxiv CONTENTS, 
 
 a-bancs Cafcade of Ghedc Gaieties of 
 $t, Gervais. - Page 221 
 
 LETTER XLV. 
 
 Glacier de Boffins Its beauty Dangers of 
 its vicinity A/cent of Montanvert Mer- 
 de -glace Environs. - 226 
 
 LETTER XLVI. 
 
 Blair s Cabin Char after of guides Mont 
 Blanc Def cent from Montanvert Source 
 of the Arveron Difcontetits of Savoyards 
 Divifion of lands. - 231 
 
 LETTER XLVIL 
 
 Evening contemplation PaJ/age of Col-de- 
 Balme Valley of 'Trent Village. 238 
 
 LETTER XLVI1L 
 
 Pqffage of For clay St. Blanchier Valley of 
 
 Entremont Infcriptions on houfes Po- 
 
 Jition of Liddes Pilgrim. 242
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 XXXV 
 
 LETTER XLIX. 
 
 /. Pierre Fle/h of animals- Afccnt to Sf. 
 Bernard Mule good injlru&or Barba- 
 rous route Meal at the convent* Page 247 
 
 LETTER L. 
 
 Environs of convent Language of the bro- 
 thers Lake PaJJage of Hannibal In- 
 Jlitntion of the co?ivent Members. 253 
 
 LETTER LI. 
 
 Employment of the brothers Their utility 
 queftioned Storm Defcent from S/. Ber- 
 nard'' sMuli fjj rejljlance. - 258 
 
 LETTER LIL 
 
 Pojltion of St. Blanchier 'St. Martigny 
 
 Butterfly-catcher Eloquent landlord 
 
 Goitrous and Cretins Saujfures hypothe- 
 
 fis. - 263 
 
 LETTER LTII. 
 
 Cafcade of PiJJevache Entrance on territo- 
 ries of Berne Bex Salines Poff&ge 
 through the mountain. - 268 
 
 c a
 
 xxxvi CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER LIV. 
 
 Appearance upon ifftiing from the Salines* 
 Bex defer ibed Church dlfpute Route to 
 Vevai Chateau de Cbillon Arrival at 
 Laufanne Reflection on the tour. Page 273 
 
 LETTER LV. 
 
 Beauties of the country Rocks of Millerai 
 Character of the Swifs Marquis de Lan- 
 gle Chevalier Mehegan Balance of 
 opinion. - - 278 
 
 LETTER LVI. 
 
 Political dijlurbances Their origin Strong 
 meafures of the Eernois Reality of the 
 plot doubted Alledged grievances eonfi- 
 dered. - 283 
 
 LETTER LVII. 
 
 Vineyards Climate Prohibition of French 
 language Severity of government* 289
 
 CONTENTS, xxxvft 
 
 LETTER LVIII. 
 Decline of fociety and natural beauty 
 Preparation for Italian tour. Page 293 
 
 LETTER LIX. 
 
 Departure from Lanfannc Rencontre at 
 Rolle-~Geneva Judgment again/} thea- 
 tres. - 296 
 
 LETTER LX. 
 
 Entrance upon Savoy Aix les Bains- 
 Chamber ri Aigue-belle route defer ibed. 
 
 300 
 LETTER LXI. 
 
 Inhabitants of Valley -Village triumph 
 Lannejbourg Diflocation of carriages^ 
 &c. - - 304 
 
 LETTER LXII. 
 
 A/cent of Mont Cenis Appearance of fum* 
 mit-^Defcent injledge Comparifon ofan- 
 tient and modern travellers NovaJeze 
 ^Particulars ofSuxe, &c. 307
 
 xxxviii CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER LXIII. 
 
 Approach to Turin Drefe of inhabitants 
 His Sardinian Majefty s palace Equef- 
 trian Jtatue Four feafons, &c. Chef 
 of Gerard DOIV. - Page 3 14 
 
 LETTER LXIV. 
 
 UniverJity-^Mufeo del Re Venus, Tripod, 
 &c. I/me table, &c. General hypothefis 
 
 Indujlria. - - 318 
 
 LETTER LXV. 
 
 Italian opera Serious bejl in England 
 Buffo tn Italy Theatre de Carignano 
 Italians cxcell in humorous fong Dancing^ 
 vicious tqfle. - - 322 
 
 LETTER LXVI. 
 
 Churches Places, promenades, &c.-r-Po 
 Its poetical hi/lory not Jlriffily intelligible 
 
 Trade of Turin Refleftion on commerce 
 of Britain* - - 325
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 L- E T T E R LXVII. 
 Departure from Turin 'Trial of pride- De- 
 fer ipt ion of route Late arrival at Villa 
 Nugva Padrone defined Village confe- 
 quencc Italian accommodations -Counfet 
 to travellers, _ Page 329 
 
 LETTER LXVIII. 
 Akjfandna Tortona Italian fupper- Na- 
 Jidienus Gar lick. - . 333 
 
 LETTER LXIX. 
 
 ItaTian Signora Charms of a red coat No 
 part of Italy uninterejling Cajlel San Gio- 
 vanni Cathedral Contrajl of temple and 
 *w<jrj}npprs Reflection on fuperjlition. 
 
 33* 
 
 LETTER LXX. 
 
 Placenta Piaz%a Publico Statues, &c. 
 
 Cathedral Dial Madonna^- Altar of 
 
 St. Anthony Church of San Agojlino 
 
 Wealth of Augujlines -Route to Parma. 
 
 C4 ' 340
 
 xl CONTENT S. 
 
 LETTER LXXL 
 
 Parma Cathedral Church San Giovanni 
 
 Academy Chef a" auvre of Corregglo 
 
 Its cbaracler DefecJ of the art Wooden 
 
 theatre Amletto Italian tragedy Ob- 
 
 Jlacles to travelling. - Page 343 
 
 LETTER LXXII. 
 
 JEmilian 'way Modena T'affbni Calhz- 
 dral Singular guide- Chapel San Gemi- 
 mano Religious creeping- Sccchla 
 Groundlefs wars, - 
 
 LETTER LXXIIL 
 
 Bologna Madonna dl San Luca Portico 
 Virtues of the image Hiflory of its 
 transfer Moral of the fable. 
 
 LETTER LXXIV. > 
 View from Saint Luke Decollation of Sf. 
 Paul Z/ Injlituto Palace Sampieri 
 Abraham and Hagar* Chrifl and the 
 
 Pharifec
 
 CONTENTS. *H 
 
 Pharifee St. Paul and St. Peter Its 
 effe&s defer ibed Bcft objecJ of pilgrimage \ 
 
 Page 360 
 
 LETTER LXXV. 
 
 Churches Giovanni in Monte, Cecilia of 
 Raphael Dominican, Majjacre of Inno- 
 cents, Tomb of Dominique, Death of Virgin 
 Agnes, Martyrdom Petronius, Meri- 
 dian, &c. Muficals Route from Bo- 
 logna Pietra Mala, &c. 366 
 
 LETTER LXXVI. 
 
 Florence Gallery Liberality of Grand Duke 
 Tribune Venu$ de Medici s Progrefs 
 of artift imagined Arrutino Different 
 hypothefes Conclusion. - 369 
 
 L E T T E R LXXVII. 
 
 Wreftlen Dancing faun Cabinets of mi- 
 nerals, portraits, &c.' Eufl of Alexander 
 Different opinions Euft of Brutus 
 Why unfnifhcd Conjefture. - 373
 
 *lii CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER LXXVIII. 
 Streets Entrance of city Palace Pitti, 
 Ceilings, Madonna Ricardi, Evangelifts, 
 &c. General character of place and peo- 
 ple. Page 378 
 
 LETTER LXXIX. 
 
 Cathedral San Lorenzo, tombs of Michael 
 Angelo, Chapel di Medic is Santa Annun- 
 tiata, has reliefs. Madonna, &c. Domini- 
 cans SanSpirito Santa Croce, Monument 
 of Michael Angelo, Galileo Reflection on 
 the loft. ~ - 381 
 
 LETTER LXXX. 
 
 Reluflant departure Peruggia San Fran- 
 cefco Refurreclion Raphael indebted to " 
 Pie fro Perugino Affumption of Virgin 
 Analogy of painting and mufic Palace 
 Delia Penna Salvator Rofa General 
 character of Peruggia, 385
 
 CONTENTS. xliii 
 
 LETTER LXXXI. 
 
 Foltgno Village politics Madonna of 
 Raphael Delicious route to Spoletto*> 
 Gothic aqueduct Importance of Spoletto. 
 
 Page 390 
 
 L ETTER LXXXII. 
 
 Cafcade of Term River Velino Hi/tor y 
 Piano del Alarmore Track from village 
 Points of 'view Mode of defcent 
 Height General cffecJ. - 394, 
 
 LETTER LXXXIII. . 
 
 High eft point of Appennlne Birth place of 
 Tacitus Route to Narni Nera-bridge 
 Otriculum Flexions of Tiber Cltta Caf- 
 tellana Decrcafe of natural beauty En- 
 trance of Rome. - - 397
 
 CONTENTS, 
 
 VOLUME THE SECOND, 
 
 LETTER LXXXIV. 
 
 rable embarrqflment Roman capital 
 Reflection Mufeum Confined fpace of 
 capital Campo Vaccino Vejliges of an- 
 tient Jlrufturcs Contrqft of aqtient and 
 modern Forum. Page I 
 
 LETTER LXXXV. 
 
 emple of Peace Imperial Palace Arch of 
 'Titus Prefent Jlate Jewffi delicacy 
 Sonnet of Ealdi Tranjlafion. 6 
 
 LETTER LXXXVI. 
 
 emple of Antoninus and Fauftina Peter s 
 miracle Amphitheatre of Vefpafian Ex- 
 tent, flrength) and remains Miraculous 
 anecdote Arch of Conftantine Magnifi- 
 cent view Refleflion. - JQ
 
 C O N t N f & *lv 
 
 LETTER LXXXVIL 
 
 Prelude to Chr'iflmas Ceremonies of Nati- 
 vity Character of his Hollnefs-^-General 
 effett Papal power on the decline. Page 1 7 
 
 LETTER LXXXVIII. 
 
 Multitude of antlent monuments Baths, 
 Dioclejian, Titus Circufes Pantheon 
 theatre of Marcellus Aquedufts and 
 laths beft tejllmomes of antieni grandeur* 20 
 
 LETTER LXXXIX. 
 
 Roman burials Sepulchre ofElbulus Toriibs 
 Vault of the Scipios Capo dl Bove-~- 
 Pyramid of C. Cejlius Moles Adriani 
 Maufoleum of Augujlus Real char after 
 of that prince. * 24 
 
 LETTER XC. 
 
 fountain of Egeria Temple of Minerva^ 
 Medica Mifcellaneous temples, &c. Co- 
 lumn of ^T raj an and Anfbninus Roots of 
 
 bridges
 
 xlvi CONTENTS* 
 
 bridges Clean/ing of 'Tiber Colour 
 Diminijtied reputation. Page 28 
 
 LETTER XCI. 
 
 EffecJ of French revolution upon the Pope 
 Religious precautions Devotion of city~ 
 ProceJJion Its efecl Religion and traf- 
 fic of Rome Rules for calculating the po- 
 pulation. - - 33 
 
 LETTER XCIL 
 
 ConducJ of the Pope tipon efc ape of Louis XV L 
 Extraft from brief Spirit of the de- 
 mand. - ~ ~ 37 
 
 LETTER XCIII. 
 
 Barberini Palace Four Evangelifts^fick fa- 
 tyr, Jleeping faun Spada Statue of 
 Pompcy Rufpiglioji, Aurora Villa Al- 
 bani, Mcdicis^ Borghefe Cur tins Sling- 
 ing David Fighting Gladiator Effect 
 upon the mind. - - 42
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER XCIV. 
 
 St. Peter s Street conducing to Area before 
 Facade Ornaments of interior Afcent 
 to Crofs Vatican Mufeum Additions of 
 Pius Superiority of antient to modem 
 Rome Apollo Laocoon, &c. Page 46 
 
 LETTER XCV. 
 
 St. 'John Laterally relics, &c. Baptiftery 
 Triclinium, injlrument of Popes authority 
 Scala Santa Climbing devotion Mi- 
 raculous image Religious grants. 5 i 
 
 LETTER XCVL 
 
 Santa Maria Maggiore, ornaments, Culla Sa- 
 cra, &c. San Paolo, its magnificence, 
 fpeaking crucifix, &c. Memorable altars 
 en Oftian way Santa Maria della Croce 
 Catacombs of Sebqflian, &c. San Pietro 
 in Car cere, Peter s prifon In Montorio 9 
 TransJigurationIn V'mculis, miraculous 
 union of chains, &c. Mifcellaneous mi- 
 racles, - *- 55 
 
 14
 
 fclviH CONTENT 3. 
 
 LETTER XCVII. 
 
 Coffee-hottfes General fubjijlence Fondneft 
 for theatricals Serious opera Defcrip- 
 tion of comic ^ Roman more thaji Italian. 
 
 Page 6 1 
 
 LETTER XCVIII. 
 
 BenedicJi n of borfes Strictly regarded 
 Romance offcourge Funeral proceffibns 
 Efficacy of candles Exijlence of mira- 
 cles. - 64 
 
 LETTER XCIX. 
 
 Excutfwn to Tivoli Solfaterra, &c. Car- 
 dinal d^Efte ^Lucan Bridge Sybils Te??t- 
 ple -Villas of M<zcenas, Horace, &c. 
 Latter difputed Temple ofTofa Fall of 
 An'io Elegant points Gardens of Eft e 
 Adrian s Villa Village comedy. .68 
 
 LETTER C. 
 
 Roman jurlfprudencc Puniflment of the 
 chord Stiletto Roman temper vindictive 
 
 Anecdote
 
 CONTENTS. xlix 
 
 Anecdote Street affajjination Roman 
 feelings illujlrated. P a ge 74 
 
 LETTER CL 
 
 Amufement of evening Mildnefs of 'winter 
 Roman cloak Sacred days Pleafures 
 of higher and lower ranks Celebrated 
 emigrants Academia Englijh and 
 Roman dance Defective education of la- 
 dies Reafon ajfigned Morals Dark' 
 nefs of Jlreets. 80 
 
 LETTER GIL 
 
 Carnival Promenade ofmajks Interchange 
 of drejjes between the fexes Races Pro- 
 jccJ of retiring Ultimate effect of carnival 
 en the mind. - - 86 
 
 LETTER GUI. 
 
 Change in travelling fince Horace Velldri 
 Humours of place Tre-ponti Im- 
 provement of P on tine MarJJj by reigning 
 Pope Approach to 'Terracina Charac- 
 terijlic of Terracina Monte C'-rcello 
 VOL. I. d Route
 
 1 CONTENTS. 
 
 Route from T'erracina Beauties of Fondi 
 Sinuejfa Gael a Modern Capua 
 RefleSfion on its change. - Page 89 
 
 LETTER CIV. 
 
 Morals of Naples Clofe of carnival Maf- 
 queradc Singular majlt Language of na- 
 tives corrupt Great nfe of term mo Ob- 
 jection to its Jlndy. - 95 
 LETTER CV. 
 
 2^av Profpecl from hotel Promenades 
 Beauties of country Corruption of man- 
 ners Accountable in loivef orders 
 La-z-zaronis Their char after and #/ 
 sljfojji nation Royal decifion. - 99 
 
 LETTER CVI. 
 Profligacy of higher orders not eafdy account- 
 able Opera Academla Difplay of 
 apartments Mufic no objecl of meeting. 
 
 103 
 LETTER CVII. 
 
 Vljit to Vefuvins Afcent View from bafe-*- 
 
 Lava Cicerone Caccia del Re Pain de 
 
 4 Sucre
 
 CONTENTS. H 
 
 Sucre Difficult afcent to Crater Its ap- 
 pearance Defcent to Hermitage Inha- 
 bitants Dangers reconciled Power of 
 habit. - - Page 106 
 
 LETTER CVIII. 
 
 Pompeia P erf eft Jlrect- Plan of houfes 
 and Jhops^ &c. Subterraneous vaults 
 Slow progrcfs of charing Reafons 
 Anecdote of King of Naples. 1 1 2 
 
 LETTER CIX. 
 
 Changes npon coajl Poxzuolo, Temple of Se- 
 rapis^ &c. Bai<z> Temple of Venus ^ Mer- 
 cury r , &c. Eaidi Pifcina Mirabile 
 Elyfian Fields Live only in defcription 
 Grotto del Cane Phenomenon yet unac- 
 counted for Baths of Nero Pifciarella 
 Soil generally impregnated 'with heat. 
 
 118 
 
 LETTER CX. 
 Mtifaum at Portici Court-yard Repofi- 
 tory of antiques Different cabinets 
 d 2 Ruins
 
 lii CONTENTS. 
 
 Ruins of Herculaneum Entrance of 
 lava into boufes, &c.-r-Infenfibility of na- 
 tives Provifion of naturt' Uncertainty of 
 foil Climate ) &c. Page 124 
 
 LETTER CXI. 
 
 Farnefe Bull Hercules Tomb of Virgil* 
 Happy tradition -Cicerones "Their cba- 
 racJer Cafe of conference decided Ho- 
 norable credentials. 129 
 
 LETT E R CXII. 
 
 Eruption ofVe/xviiis Af cent of the mountain 
 Appearance Flow of LavaCrater^ 
 &c. defcribed View upon mountain Na- 
 ture of the dif charge- Departure . 133 
 
 LETTER CXIII. 
 
 Re- entrance of Ro?ne Difference of impref- 
 
 Jion Little attraction in Roman fociety- 
 
 Excetknce of Roman accent Oaths Re- 
 
 verfe of Cardinal de Bernis Royal aunts 
 
 Abbt Mauri Decline of papal power 
 
 8 Potitif*
 
 CONTENTS. Hii 
 
 Political precautions Emigrants difl'm- 
 gttijked. - Page 138 
 
 LETTER CXIV. 
 
 Route to Sienna Highefl point of Appennlns 
 Slenna^cathedral Itinerant preacher 
 Religions policy. - 144 
 
 LETTER CXV. 
 
 Contrajl of Campagna and Tufcany At- 
 tempt to account for evils of the former 
 Severe impoft -Magnitude of farms ^ &c. 
 Means of reformation Obflacle to ex- 
 periment. - . - 148 
 
 LETTER CXVI. 
 
 Leghorn defcrlbcd Political rumours M- 
 
 effecJ on commercial cities Cofitrafl of ob- 
 
 jecJs at Leghorn and Rome Corruption oj 
 
 Romlfh church Probable mifcbiefs of its 
 
 overthrow. - - i r2
 
 liv . C O N.T E N T S. 
 
 LETTER CXVII. 
 
 Voyage to Genoa Felucca defcribed Pajfen- 
 gers Their character Subjecl of Lotto 
 Trench revolution Sailors judgment- 
 Virtuofi s amendment. Page 156 
 
 LETTER CXVIII. 
 
 Carrara Its marbles Port of Lend 
 Entertainment-^ &c. - Spe-zia Engliflj 
 navy C A p I T A N o Cook Englifh prodi- 
 gies PaJJionfor Jlones, bejl attachment 
 Succefsful virtu Piedmontcfe education 
 Prince of Carignano and E?igliJJy prince. 
 
 160 
 
 LETTER CXIX. 
 
 Coojl from Lend Land route Robbers 
 
 -Francefcom Port of Camucci^Genoefe 
 
 orator French and Evglijh character 
 
 contrajled Virtuofo difcouraged - 
 
 trance into harbour of Genoa. 1 66
 
 CONTENTS. i e 
 
 LETTER CXX. 
 
 Approach to Genoa defcribed-^-Stritcliirc of 
 houfes, &c. Streets, &c. Ponte di Ca- 
 rignano Indujlry and public fpirit. 
 
 Page 170 
 
 LETTER CXXI. 
 
 Palaces Francefco Balbi Palazzo Roffo 
 Head of Holof ernes Ornaments of inte- 
 rior, &c. Ditrazzo Shiecdote of pof- 
 M>'- 174 
 
 LETTER CXXII. 
 
 Albergo dc PoveriIts good adm'uujlration 
 and nfes ^Paupers Church, &.c..~~-Proeef- 
 fwn of children Extent of building Hof- 
 pital Sola de Fcriti Church of Carig- 
 nano Statues, &c. Sedan Doge- Ge- 
 neral cjf eft of city, f 178 
 
 LETTER CXXIII. 
 
 Departure from Genoa Sailors devotion 
 
 Lerici Rencontre Company Crijis 
 
 d 4 Contrary
 
 Ivi CONTENTS. 
 
 Contrary 'wind Land expedition Ar- 
 rangement. - Page 1 84 
 
 LETTER CXXIV. 
 
 Exchange of Sarzana and Leghorn Car- 
 riages defcribed Order of procejjicn - 
 Day -light German gutturals Arrival. 
 
 iSS 
 
 LETTER CXXV. 
 
 Pifa Cathedral, &c. Torre Pendente 
 Mechanics no defence againfl fear Baths , 
 &c. Route to Florence Drefs of fe- 
 males.' - - 191 
 
 LETTER CXXVL 
 
 Rigours of >uarefima, &c. Second view 
 Ponte della Trimta Police Fair J ex 
 Morals, - - 195 
 
 LETTER CXXVII. 
 
 Appennine- Pietra Mala AfpecJ of ground, 
 &c Cicerone Loiano Sanclity of Good 
 
 Friday
 
 C O, N T E N T S. Ivii 
 
 Friday Advantages of mechanical devo- 
 tion. - - Page 198 
 
 LETTER CXXVIIL 
 
 Funclions at Bologna Sepulture of Chrift 
 Italian oratory Mufical folemnity San 
 Micbaele in Bofco Pleafures of its vici- 
 7iity Revijit to SampierirPainting re- 
 fonfidered, &c. 203 
 
 LETTER CXXIX. 
 
 EaJter-Eve Pilgrims, proceffions, &:c. 
 EaJter-Day^ Cardinal Legate, Gonfalonier, 
 &.C. Wealth, &c. of city Defeated by 
 fuperjlition Papal yoke Probability of 
 its decline. - - 207 
 
 LETTER CXXX. 
 
 Route to Ferrara Altered afpetJ of town*- 
 State of fuperjlition Humours ofRovigo- 
 Delicious village Communicative landlord 
 Mountain oftbefeven churches Relics 
 of Saints Terrace Religious curiofities. 
 
 212
 
 Jviii CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER CXXXI. 
 
 Change of miracle Defcent of Brenta - 
 Banks of canals^ &c. Approach to Ve- 
 nice Tour of city Place of St. Mark - 
 Columns^ caffes^ &c. Rendezvous Ca- 
 finos, &c.r - Church of St. Marker dies ^ &c, 
 
 Page 218 
 
 LETTER CXXXII. 
 
 Church of San Zacharia y Angel and violin 
 San Giovanni e Paolo , Saviour and the 
 Levitt Sf. Roche Santa Maria dclla 
 Salute ScalxiFrari Precious depofit 
 ^itian s tojnb ReJJeffioji. T 223 
 
 LETTER CXXXIIL 
 
 Palac Pifani) Family of Darius Sajt 
 Georgio Maggiore, Marriage of Cana 
 Luxuries of the convent Grand Canal 
 Ponte di Rialto Prices of gondolas Po- 
 pulation Paths and gondolas. 228
 
 CON TENTS. Toe 
 
 LETTER CXXXIV. 
 
 Origin of Venice ^Advancement State of 
 'Defence P erf on of Venetians Drcfs 
 Mq/king Amufcments Gondola defcrlbed 
 Gondoliers Political reftraints. 
 
 Page 232 
 
 LETTER CXXXV. 
 
 Police defective Ufe of the knife Sklr- 
 mi/Jjes of Sclavonlans Licentiotifnefs tole- 
 rated Reafon ajjlgned Departure from 
 Venice Village gratitude. 237 
 
 LETTER CXXXVI. 
 
 Padua Sarcophagus, Antcnor Church^ 
 St. Antony Santa jujlina Prato della 
 Valley Livy, &c. Univerjity town Vi- 
 cetiza Olympic Theatre, interior defcrlbed 
 Madonna del Monte Berrico Inhabi- 
 tants Court efy. -
 
 Ix CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER CXXXVII. 
 
 Route to Verona Amphitheatre^ interior dc- 
 fcribed Churches , &c. Reflection* on 
 having Italy Route to 'Trent Bolzano^ 
 loquacious landlord- Route to Brixen 
 Change of country Faffing to Infpruck- 
 Drefs and manners of Tyrolians. Page 246 
 
 LETTER CXXXVIIL 
 
 German tragedy State of Infpruck^ &c. 
 Change of cojlume Review of route 
 through Tyro! Objefts of fuperjlitlon 
 Different in Italy and Tyrol Catholic 
 church -yard Alliance of Catholic to poetic 
 rite. 253 
 
 LETTER CXXXIX. 
 
 Augslourg) Jlate of country ^ &c. Gold and 
 
 fdver head-drefs Political events Route 
 
 to Lindau Boden See Circuit of lake 
 
 Rojbacb) &c. Conjlance Emigrant ren~ 
 
 dezvous Power of adverfity. 259
 
 CONTENTS, Ixi 
 
 LETTER CXL. 
 
 Sympathy Emigrant fiifferings Surviving 
 PoliteffcPolonefe princefs State of Con- 
 Jlance Environs, &c. Route to Schqf- 
 houfe Encounter. - Page 264 
 
 LETTER CXLL 
 
 Equilibrium reft or ed Fall of Rhine Lev el , 
 rocks y &c. Points of view Imagination 
 indulged Minute beauties Sole dcfeti* 
 Bridge of wood Safety againjl /pecu- 
 lation Route to Zurich- Eglifau Di- 
 verting landlord. - 269 
 
 LETTER CXLII. 
 
 Mind's caprice Zurich defer ibed Fair ftx 
 Government fevere Effects of politics on 
 Geneva Only objccls not changed. 274 
 
 LETTER CXLIII. 
 
 Villa at Lmifanne Its beauty Change of 
 PJfcJfir Reafons Bad effecJs of defeated 
 
 cppofition
 
 Ixii CONTENTS. 
 
 oppojttion New law re/peeing travellers 
 Its operation Gibbon Changes felt in 
 fociety Not felt by lower orders. 
 
 Page 279 
 
 LETTER CXLIV. 
 
 Amufements difcover nature- Flajk and valz 
 
 Sunday diver/tons Jeu de FEpingle 
 
 Quejlions et -reponfes Arioflo quoted^ 
 
 Intellectual character of the Swift Plea- 
 
 fant repartee. - - 283 
 
 LETTER CXLV. 
 
 Ruflic enthujiafin Heltife Forcible addrefs 
 to pajjions Corrupt tendency > Merits 
 confidered Character of writer Epi- 
 taph on RonJJeau Id. on Voltaire. 288 
 
 LETTER CXLVI. 
 
 Polifhprincefs Political character Vivacity^ 
 &c. Eon-mot of Staniflaus Forced mar- 
 riage Italian law Anecdote Ariofto 
 wrote from other models Englifo manners 
 con t rafted. - - 292
 
 CONTENTS. Ixiii 
 
 LETTER CXLVII. 
 
 Stvi/s mourning for majjacre of jotb of 
 Augujl New plans of travel ProjecJ to 
 Egypt defeated Courteous adieu of emi- 
 grants Advantage of difficulties. 
 
 Page 297 
 
 LETTER CXLVIII. 
 
 Second tour to Glaciers Review on route 
 Jura, Geneva^ &c. Track to Bonneville^ 
 environs , &c. PiEturefque approach to 
 Clufe Valley of Maglan Cafcade New 
 hotel at Salcncbe Cafcade of Chede^ lake, 
 &c. Boiffons Montainvert Guides^ 
 Cachat His achievements Saujfure, &c. 
 Unfttccefsful expedition to Mo?it Blanc 
 Aiguille de Dru Source of Arveron 
 changed Arrival at Geneva Profpecl of 
 change of fcene. - 302 
 
 LETTER CXLIX. 
 
 Excurfwn to Lyons Addition of company 
 Patriotic adieu Drench boundary Co- 
 
 longes
 
 JxiV CONTENTS. 
 
 longes Village taffies National troops-^-* 
 Cerdon Expenfive privilege Montluel 
 Female politician Entrance of Lyons 
 Place Bellecourt Hotel ^ &c. Page 3 1 3 
 
 LETTER CL. 
 Table aHoleDifcu/ionCity defcrlbed 
 Low population Indignities of Jlatue of 
 Louis XIV. Gala proccffion . 318 
 
 LETTER CLL 
 
 Burning of royal portraits, and books, &c. 
 Order of proceeding Setting Jire to pile 
 AJhcs of Louis XIV. Temper of populace 
 Dialogue Farther Introduction Bour- 
 geois guard Finale effete. 323 
 
 LETTER CLII. 
 
 PicJure in verted Prediction Theatre 
 Pnyfan Magiftrat Marfeillois march 
 Symptoms of dlf order Confirmation In- 
 fur reftlon MaJJacre Fi rji victim Con- 
 fequences -ProceJJion of mob New victims 
 
 ~-Difco-
 
 CONTENTS. Ixv 
 
 very Calm Morning deliberation - 
 Paffports Retreat projected. Page 328 
 
 LETTER CLIIL 
 
 Plan of mob Unfortunate officer Origin 
 of mob Conduct of Municipality Affi- 
 cbes Counter advertifements Orderly 
 defence Carriage engaged--' Manners 
 brutalized Efcape anticipated. 336 
 
 LETTER CLIV. 
 
 Return to Geneva Second addrefs of Mayor 
 IJJuefrom Lyons Montleull Fugitive 
 prieJis-Nantua Patriotic volunteers 
 Guard Priejis undifguifable Rencontre 
 Englift character refpetted Arrival 
 Refaction upon events^ &c 342 
 
 LETTER CLV. 
 
 Tour into Germany projected Attack upon 
 Savoy rumoured Effect upon Geneva 
 Arrival at Berne Deferter Genewus 
 patriot Embarras Dulnefs of Berne. 
 
 349 
 
 VOL. I.
 
 Ixrf CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER CLVI. 
 
 Military fejlivities Swift officers Precis 
 Hiflorique Aaraw Broug Dilemma. 
 
 Pa g e 354 
 
 LETTER CLVII. 
 
 Route from Broug Pqflilion vanquifoed 
 Pojlilion victor Cafcade ofSchaffhaufe re- 
 viewed Table d^Hote Swifs politics 
 Religious economy. 359 
 
 LETTER CLVIIL 
 
 Swifs towns, their characler German lan- 
 guage Little analogy with other lan- 
 guages Plan of tour Decijion French 
 travellers Swifs phlegm EngliJ]} im- 
 patience. - 365 
 
 LETTER CLIX. 
 
 Departure from Schaffhaufe German wag- 
 gon Company German characler Ac- 
 cident Embarrajpnent. 370
 
 CONTENTS. Ixvii 
 
 LETTER CLX. 
 
 Simile EmbarraJJment renewed Route con- 
 tinned Pojl-houfe Eclairciffement 
 Dinner 'Journey refumed* Page 375 
 
 LETTER CLXI. 
 
 Society Further difficulties in German lan- 
 guage Riedlingen Pleafant difcovery 
 Journey to Ulm continued Ulm dejcribed, 
 
 c. 3 8i 
 
 LETTER CLXII. 
 
 Embarking for Vienna Frenchmen obnoxi- 
 ous PaJJengers, &c. Landing French 
 characJer in youth and age Inquijitivenefs 
 *Table d'tiote when agreeable. 387 
 
 LETTER CLXIII. 
 
 Departure from Gunjburg Mode of pajjing 
 the day Character of paj/engers Bajle 
 merchant Hungarian teacher Maflame 
 Vogel Darmftadt lieutenant Swifs 
 IJ/uefrom barge. - 392 
 
 C 2
 
 Ixvlii CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER CLXIV. 
 
 Battle of Blenheim Scene depicted Mar- 
 qulfate of Baden Donaveri Neuberg 
 Bavarian troops Adventure Pajftng 
 under bridge. - - Page 397 
 
 LETTER CLXV. 
 
 Forcible current Ingolftadt Errors in 
 German character corrected Diver/ions of 
 evening Arrangement of day's voyage 
 Amufements. - - 402 
 
 LETTER CLXVI. 
 Majeftic courfe of Danube Military fenjibi- 
 llty Ratijbon Jealoufy of French Re- 
 flection -Comedy of dogs Departure. 408 
 
 LETTER GLXVII. 
 
 Village mifery Delicate arrangement F/7/z- 
 hofen Apology for trivial details Chance 
 of greater adventures. - 413 
 
 LETTER CLXVIII. 
 
 View of Pajfau Nature undefcrlbable 
 DreJ/es of females Scrutiny Engel- 
 kartzel Aufirlan officer Infer iff ion. 417
 
 CONTENTS. Ixix 
 
 LETTER CLXIX. 
 
 Conrfe to Linfz Lintz Interejling fcenes 
 Strudels Enchanting picJure Pilgri- 
 mage of Morbacb Religious falute 
 Crems Vienna. - Page 422 
 
 LETTER CLXX. 
 
 Entrance upon Vienna Caernerthore thea- 
 tre defcribed Wiedner theatre^ its fpecies 
 of amufement Remark on German ferious 
 fong Theatre in Jofephftadt. 428 
 
 LETTER CLXXI. 
 
 The JLmperor defcribed Het%, or combat of 
 wild beajls Departure of the HeJ/ian. 
 
 433 
 
 LETTER CLXXII. 
 
 Change of refidence German hauteur exhi- 
 bited in language- maJJers Manner of 
 living at Vienna Diverting embarfajf- 
 ment. - - - 438
 
 Ixx CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER CLXXIII. 
 
 Knowledge of life how obtained Italians at 
 Vienna Independence maintained by a 
 reformation In drefs By avoiding three 
 Jbrts of characters Adventurers, good 
 fort of people. Englishmen Rule llluf- 
 trated. - - Pag 6444 
 
 LETTER CLXXIV. 
 
 Contraft of Sunday In England and In Vienna 
 Summer rendezvous Prater Augar- 
 ten Dancing Humours of a Tanzfaal 
 defer ibed. - - 450 
 
 LETTER CLXXV. 
 
 Streets of Vienna Squares Platz Graben 
 Platz of the Hof Reception of the Em- 
 peror and Emprejs at the Opera General 
 freedom of manners in this city. 457 
 
 LETTER CLXXVI. 
 
 Phafure of unobferved fptculatlon Dmmg- 
 houfes, &c. defcrlbed Mufic Debate 
 Political tirator. - 463
 
 CON T E NT S. . lixx 
 
 LETTER CLXXVII. 
 
 Situation of Vienna Extent Promenades 
 Climate Ufe of o fens State of Jlreets 
 Houfes Lights Hackney coaches Or- 
 der of city Police of Berne reprobated. 
 
 Page 469 
 
 LETTER CLXXVIII. 
 
 Singular rencontre Difcovery of Madgmc 
 
 Y Reflection upon the character of 
 
 the Hejjian, 47$ 
 
 LETTER CLXXIX. 
 
 Public buildings Court Univerjity Aca- 
 demy Lombard Liberal inftitutions* 
 Churches Cathedral St. Peter s Hof, 
 or Court Church 'Tomb of Marefchal 
 Laudohn Reflections upon fepulchral tr-o-' 
 fbies. 479 
 
 LETTER CLXXX. 
 
 Church of the Reformed Curious epitaph 
 Intention of departure Cujlom of Ange- 
 dencken Propofed route.
 
 Ixxii CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER CLXXXI. 
 
 Pride of office Entrance upon Bohemia - 
 Particulars refpeSting the country Bohe- 
 mian beauty ^-Grievances of Wagen-travel- 
 Ung. Page 488 
 
 LETTER CLXXXIL 
 
 Travelling philofophy, 'what Vexatious de- 
 but Prague defcribed Reflexions on its 
 biftory Alliance of cruelty and religion. 
 
 49* 
 LETTER CLXXXIII. 
 
 Character of the inhabitants French politics 
 Language of Bohemia Union 'with 
 PruJJian infcheme of travel. 495 
 
 LETTER CLXXXIV. 
 
 Departure from Prague Carriage defcribed 
 - Price of travelling Dangers of the 
 night Arrival at Peterfwalda. 498 
 
 LETTER CLXXXV. 
 
 Village poft-hQiife Route to DrefdenDref* 
 
 den defcribed Gallery Theatre Ap - 
 
 2 pearance:
 
 CONTENTS.' Ixxiti 
 
 pearance of the Eleftor at the theatre 
 compared with that of the Emperor 
 Fair/ex Political landlord. Page 504 
 
 LETTER CLXXXVI. 
 
 Route to Leipfig Leipjig dcfcribed Popu- 
 lation Univerfity Church Promenade 
 Character of the inhabitants. 509 
 
 LETTER CLXXXVII. 
 
 Free difcujjion at Leipjig Departure for 
 Berlin Adventure Injury repaired 
 Arrival at Potsdam. - 512 
 
 LETTER CLXXXVIII. 
 
 Advance ofpofting progrejftve Vifit to Sans- 
 
 Souci Parade at Potxdam P ruffian fen- 
 
 fibility. - 517 
 
 LETTER CLXXXIX. 
 
 Journalise The fcarch Berlin defcrlbed 
 ' Houfes contrajled with the inhabitants 
 Opera y &c. Abfence of the King', its 
 effetl Probable change infyftem. 522
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER CXC. 
 
 Landlord^ &c. Attendants on Jiranger 
 Uving cofily Mode of life amongji the 
 natives Cafes School of /peculation. 
 
 Page 526 
 
 LETTER CXCI. 
 
 Society Language Accent of Berlin and 
 
 Vienna contrajled Eulogium ort the lan- 
 
 guage Libraries Manners of people*- 
 
 Humours of a dance Englifh rule of 
 
 fafhion Pipes ^uejlion of trade. 530 
 
 LETTER CXCII. 
 
 Severity of climate Schlofs PruJJian Count 
 AJJimilation of German and Etigli/h cha- 
 racler Study of government negleffed. 
 
 536 
 
 LETTER CXCIII. 
 Diver/ions Theatre Rotunda Thiiregar- 
 ten Charlottenburg Faflmnable ball 
 Splendor Projetl of departure Morals 
 of city German acutenefs.
 
 CONTENTS. Ixxv 
 
 LETTER CXCIV. 
 
 Courage defined Retreat from Berlin ac- 
 counted for Entrance of Pojl-ivagen 
 Wagen defcrlbed Inconveniences of route 
 Conductors Arrival at Hamburg Ta- 
 ble d* Hote. Pa ge 543 
 
 LETTER CXCV. 
 
 Society defined Members of Table d'Hote 
 defcrlbed Minifter HeJJian officer Lu- 
 becker Hamburg officer Violent Antigal- 
 licanifm of HeJJian Ear on Trench 
 Anecdotes of Jofepb II. and laft Frederic 
 HeJJtan Royalifm. 548 
 
 LETTER CXCVI. 
 
 Pleafures of a commercial to'wn Storms 
 Route projected Pofition, &c. of city 
 Mode of life Military Burlefque dif- 
 ticb Fete of Chrlftmas Anxiety for 
 French and Englijb Intelligence. 554 
 
 LETTER CXGVIL 
 
 Sequel of adventures Travelling Jlock 
 of Elbe Haarburg Waggon^
 
 Jxxvi CONTENTS. 
 
 &c. -Luxuries of Bremen Journey re- 
 fumed Rencontre Englifo pilot The 
 contrast. Page 559 
 
 LETTER CXCVIII. 
 
 Route to Leer Pilofs harangue Scrutiny 
 
 Varieties on ivay to Neuejkans Gala 
 
 Panic in Friejland Paffage to Gronin- 
 gen Country defer ibed Cojtume Land- 
 lord and pilot Strobufch Lemmer 
 Pajfage rf Zuyder See Refidue of Jlock. 
 
 LETTER CXCIX. 
 
 Senfations on profpecl of port Calculations 
 
 Dialogue CompacJ Refult Political 
 ajpecl of country Route to Rotterdam 
 Event at entrance Finances flrengthened 
 
 Adventures on route to Helvoet Em- 
 barkation View v of Harwich slpojlrophe 
 of emigrant Landing Exit pilot Ar- 
 rival at metropolis Change of cofiume 
 Final reflexion. - - 570
 
 LETTER I. 
 
 Bruflels, April 21, 1791; 
 
 MY engagement with you on leaving 
 England Hands full in my recollec- 
 tion. The delay, be afliired, has not arifen 
 from any change of inclination or purpofe, 
 but folely from circumftances of accidental 
 embarrafTment. The channel is now open- 
 ed, and you fhall have no reafon to charge 
 me with a want of punctuality. 
 
 That your expectations may not how- 
 ever be unreafonably elevated, I will juft 
 ftate the fort of entertainment I under- 
 take to furnifh. The track of Europe, 
 which we are to purfue, is already ex- 
 plored: all that could create wonder or 
 & afford
 
 2 LETTER I. 
 
 afford delight, has been fo often and fo 
 fully difplayed in the volumes of ancient 
 and modern travel, that curiofity feems 
 nearly exhaufted. What in ages paft were 
 marvels, are now bagatelles; and if afto- 
 nifhment yet remains to be excited, Man- 
 deville and Munchaufen have written in 
 vain. 
 
 I undertake not to unlock the cabinets 
 of princes, or to difentangle the intrigues 
 of courts: tranfient obfervation muft ill 
 fucceed in developing the myfteries of 
 political fyftems. Mine will neither be 
 the voyage of the connohTeur, nor the 
 journal of the naturalift: I can neither 
 pretend to throw light upon the fchools 
 of painting, nor the fcience of phyfics. 
 If I climb the mountain, it will not be 
 to gauge the atmofphere, to analife the 
 foil, or to clafs the pebbles: if I range 
 among the vallies, it will not be to gather 
 the lilies, or catch the butterflies. But 
 to human nature in all her varieties, to the 
 4 manners
 
 LETTER I. 3 
 
 manners of men and the temper of the 
 times, to the habits of life and the Hate of 
 opinions, my attention will be directed ; 
 and my observations will be delivered, with 
 only fo much of order or ornament as may 
 happen to fuggeft itfelf at the moment of 
 impreflion. 
 
 Apprized therefore of my plan, you will 
 not, if I depart from the ftrict line of gra- 
 vity or criticifm, cenfure me as volatile, nor 
 condemn me as fuperfkial. I appeal from 
 your judgment, to your candour ; from the 
 critic, to the friend : and if, after all, the 
 merit of originality be wholly wanting ; you 
 may at leaft derive a fort of pleafure from 
 that variety^ under which the moft ex- 
 haufted fubje&s rarely want fuccefs. Fa- 
 fhions the moft obfolete are daily advanced 
 by fome new colourings ; and an old play 
 feldom wants attractions, when revived 
 with new fcenes and drefies,
 
 [ 4 ] 
 
 LETTER II. 
 
 is fomettiing very peculiar in 
 * the firft fenfations of a man who 
 finds himfelf transferred to a foreign clime, 
 whofe afpeft exhibits a groupe of novel 
 images. This fenfation is perhaps felt with 
 additional force by the inhabitant of an 
 ifland who has been accuftomed to regard him- 
 felf as " penitus toto divifus orbe." The coun- 
 try he leaves, feems explored in every recefs, 
 though he may not have traverfed half its pro- 
 vinces : all before him forms a mighty vifta, 
 which he contemplates with eager anxiety. 
 I confefs the firft fight of the French 
 coaft operated upon me like enchantment. 
 With it feemed aflbciated all the images 
 which bore relation to the hiftory of this 
 wide extended empire the magnificence 
 of its kings, and the luftre of its heroes ; its 
 
 celebrity
 
 L E T T E R II. $ 
 
 celebrity in arts, in letters, and in arms. 
 When I confidered that this gallant nation, 
 once the admiration and the dread of Eu- 
 rope, was become the feat of internal dif- 
 traction and the theatre of political experi- 
 ment, I fighed over the recollection of its 
 departed grandeur. But when I traced 
 with deeper reflection the foundation of 
 thefe divifions, and the objects of this ex- 
 periment when I viewed in impartial 
 retrofpect, the ambition and perfidy which 
 fo remarkably characterized the govern- 
 ment of that nation; how incompatible 
 its wars with the principles of reafon 
 or humanity, how formidable a rival it 
 had ever proved to the power, how deter- 
 mined an enemy to the repofe, of Britain' 
 when I reflected how the cabals of this 
 court had perpetuated diflenfion in the 
 kingdoms of Europe, to gratify the paflions 
 and aggrandize the power of its princes ; 
 and in how many inftances the blood of 
 nations had been facrificed to the caprice of 
 3 a miftrefs,
 
 6 E T T E R II. 
 
 a miftrefs, or the intrigues of a confeflbr, I 
 could not but exult in the changes effected 
 by the united energies of philofophy and 
 patriotifm. 
 
 The diforders which accompany every 
 revolution of political moment, are the 
 indifpenfable terms upon which fuch feli- 
 city is to be obtained ; torrents of blood 
 have been deemed not wantonly fpent, to 
 procure a lefs good : and I could not but 
 anticipate the coming asra, when the lafl 
 touches {hall be put to a revolution, which 
 has aftoniihed, and .may inftruct mankind: 
 when out of the ruins of tyranny and fer- 
 vitude, fhail arife a government, flourishing in 
 all the luftre of reafonable authority and juft 
 fubordination ; a government whofe internal 
 policy {hall exhibit a king ruling by law, 
 and a people obeying by choice ; whofe 
 external policy fhall difplay the happy effects 
 of an unambitious and equitable fyftem of 
 conduct, in the permanent tranquillity of 
 Europe. 
 
 The
 
 L E T T E R II. 7 
 
 The ancient prejudices of this nation ac- 
 knowledged no heroifrrL but that of the 
 fword, and applauded no atchievements but 
 thofe of conqueft. It was refe.rved for a 
 later sera, and a more enlightened legiflature, 
 to eftablifh the dominion of reafon on the 
 ruins of prejudice; to annex to the life of each 
 individual, an importance hitherto unfelt; 
 to convert the laurels of war into civic 
 wreaths ; arid decree thofe triumphs to the 
 defenders of liberty, which had been pre- 
 fcriptively appropriated to the defolators of 
 their country, and the deftroyers of man- 
 kind.
 
 C 8 J 
 
 LETTER III. 
 
 T7E landed at Oftend, and took the route 
 by Ghent to Bruflels. This gave us 
 .an opportunity of feeing a town, which has 
 occupied an important place in the hiftory 
 of Europe. Ghent, or Gand, poflefTed in 
 ancient times a population far fuperior to its 
 prefent numbers ; and was of fuch extent as 
 to occafion a humorous boafl of Charles V,, 
 that he could put all Paris in his glove, 
 " dans fon Gand." This town, the capital 
 of Auftrian Flanders, was long the feat 
 of commerce in time of peace, and the 
 bulwark of defence in time of war; no 
 place has acquired more military fame, nor 
 been witnefs to more heroic ads. 
 
 The early records of its hiftory report 
 the fpirit and intrepidity of the Gantois, 
 
 The
 
 L E T T E R III. $ 
 
 The pacification of Ghent forms a great 
 epoch in their hiftory. This was formed in 
 1576, by a union of the eftates for the 
 eftablifhment of their religious and civil pri- 
 vileges, and ratified by Philip II. Famed for 
 revolt and fedition of old, it became again 
 the feat of tumult in 1787. Ghent had 
 till that moment taken no decided part, but 
 the entrance of the Brabanters in military 
 force, joined to the infolence of the Auftrian 
 foldiery, drew the citizens to the party of 
 the infurgentSj and the Auftrian army 
 quitted the place with difgrace. If we may 
 credit the accounts given of this defeat, it 
 redounds infinitely to the difcredit of the 
 Auftrians, who, to the amount of feveral 
 thoufand difciplined troops, abandoned the 
 town, citadel, and magazine, to the depre- 
 dations of three or four hundred vaga- 
 bonds, " flying," as a writer exprefles it, 
 " devant quelques malheureux de la po- 
 " pulace, fans chefs, fans armes, and fa*ns 
 ? c culottes." 
 
 The
 
 lo LETTER HI. 
 
 The iflue of thefe revolutional tumults 
 had caft a gloom over the place. It wore 
 the afpecl; of war, though in aftate of actual 
 tranquillity. The majority of its inhabitants 
 feem compofed of foldiers and ecclefiaftics ; 
 and promenades, ftreets, and avenues were 
 thronged with huffars, priefts, and beggars. 
 
 The churches are the grand ornament 
 of Ghent, as of every country under 
 the influence of fuperftition. Thefe fa- 
 cred edifices are adorned with all that art 
 and riches can contribute to conftitute fplert- 
 dour; but what renders them mod the 
 object of a traveller's attention is, that they 
 are the grand repofitories of the chefs 
 d'ceuvres of the Flemifh fchool. 
 
 The cathedral of St. Gedule is a mag- 
 nificent building, and crowded with paint- 
 ings of the Flemifh matters. Though it 
 was paffion week, and the priefts were con- 
 ftantly upon duty, the altars were not as 
 ufual thronged with devotees. The popu- 
 lation of a Catholic town may be eafily 
 
 inferred
 
 LETTER III. n 
 
 inferred from the afped of its churches at 
 this facred feafon. Some few miferable 
 wretches only were to be found engaged in 
 their devotions, and bowing round the de- 
 ferted fhrines. I fhall not enter into a detail 
 of the works of the admirable artifts which 
 embellilh this place, nor attempt to defcribe 
 the fenfations created by them. I fufFered 
 my fenfibilities to be fpontaneoufly excited, 
 and probably often felt emotions at variance 
 with academical law. Criticifm may decree 
 what ought to pleafe ; but in painting, as in 
 poetry, an appeal will not fail to be made 
 from the underftanding to the heart Shake- 
 fpeare has charmed, not only without^ but 
 even againji rule : and yet the Englifli na- 
 tion would rather facrifice the laws that 
 control, and tbe critics that cenfure, than 
 yield to oblivion and obfcurity one drama 
 of the immortal bard. 
 
 A town in the circumftances of Ghent, 
 could not long find amufement for a travel- 
 ler 5 the ferocious afpect of the military, 
 
 whofe
 
 12 L E T T E R III. 
 
 \vhofe numbers and difcipline are fcarcely 
 fufficient to retain in fubj edition the turbu- 
 lent malcontents, added to the gloom of 
 evacuated houfes and a deferted theatre, 
 induced us to quit Ghent on the following 
 day, and purfue our route to Bruflels. I 
 could not leave the town without lamenting 
 the evils which have defaced and depopu- 
 lated a place, that once poflefled fuch 
 ilrength, fplendour, and opulence. The 
 miferies of unfuccefsful revolt are here ao>- 
 cumulated upon the head of the laborious 
 and peaceful citizen. 
 
 Political grievances when extended to an 
 enormous height demand political reform ; 
 and this can, in certain cafes, only be effected 
 by popular oppofition. That there exifted 
 circumftances fufficiently aggravating, and 
 fufficiently oppreffive, to warrant the re^- 
 monftrances preferred by the Brabanters, 
 cannot be difputed. The cabals of his mi- 
 nifters and agents, rather than the dif- 
 pofition of the Emperor, prevented the 
 
 equitable
 
 LETTER III. ,3 
 
 equitable arrangements at firft required ; till 
 the fpirits of either party became heated, and 
 ineffectual remonftrance was fucceeded by- 
 outrageous revolt. The knavery and mif- 
 conduft of thofe who headed the refractory 
 Belgians, were the caufes of thofe diftrefles 
 and diftra&ions which afterwards attended 
 them. 
 
 The conceflions of Leopold are a demon- 
 ftrative proof of the injuftice of Jofeph. 
 Had Belgiojafo poflefled the conciliating 
 talents of Merci d'Argenteau, the fword 
 probably had never been drawn ; and had 
 there been prudence and patriotifm in the 
 leaders of the revolt, had the pofts of Van- 
 dernoot and Van Eupen been fupplied by a 
 Mirabeau and a Fayette, the fword had not 
 been (heathed till Belgic independence had 
 been eftablifhed. 
 
 1 have ever commiferated the lot of a 
 
 country, which by conqueft or ceffion has 
 
 become the appendage of a great empire. 
 
 An arbitrary monarch may poflefs in fome 
 
 2 happy
 
 H LETTER III. 
 
 happy moments the feelings of a man, and 
 all that lies within the compafs of his own 
 adminiftration comes more or lefs under 
 his own infpection; but a government by 
 agent, fuffragan, or viceroy, is furely a 
 government moft formidable to the liberties 
 of a people. How are they to prefs through 
 that phalanx of minifters, penfioners, and 
 courtiers, which fill up all the avenues of 
 appeal ? The diftarice from the fountain of 
 authority extinguifhes hope of redrefs, and 
 urges them to remedies the moft violent and 
 defperate.
 
 C '5 1 
 
 LETTER IV. 
 
 tT7E find BrufTels invefted with the fame 
 military terrors, and deformed by the 
 fame melancholy rites, as Ghent. That 
 part of the town in which the people of 
 faftiion refide, is of modern date; the 
 houfes are built of Hone, the apartments 
 fpacious, and the general afpeft of the place 
 is magnificent. The gloomy ceremonies of 
 the holy week have thrown a veil over the 
 ufual gaieties of this capital, and interrupt 
 for the prefent the tide of amufement. 
 Even active occupation is in great part fuf- 
 pended ; and the church has fupplanted the 
 theatre, the ball-room, and the exchange. 
 The avenues of the cathedral are crowded 
 from morning to night. All ranks and 1 
 conditions feem unanimous in the celebra- 
 tion of the facred feafon. 
 
 The
 
 16 LETTER!^. 
 
 The carnival, which I under/land was 
 uncommonly brilliant, has left behind it the 
 memory of fome irregularities ; but if the 
 moft afliduous and uninterrupted attendance 
 upon the ceremonies of the church can avail, 
 there will not remain a folly to blufh for, 
 or a crime to repent of. It is really amu- 
 fmg to fee the multitudes that throng around 
 the facred porticoes, and the ardour of the 
 devotional penance which they difcover. Not 
 content with worfhipping at one fhrine, and 
 making intereft with one faint, they fly 
 from altar to altar, feek an intereft in every 
 facrifice, and mingle their devotions with 
 the incenfe of every order. In England, it 
 is deemed unneceflary for the great to in- 
 terfere in the fervices of religion ; fafhion 
 and convenience are there paramount to 
 reafon and duty; but here the greatefl 
 blend with the meaneft in all the fervices 
 which are called religious, however jealous 
 of rank and fuperiority in civil and focial 
 life. 
 
 A card-
 
 L E T T E R IV* 17 
 
 A card-party was formed on Friday 
 evening, being the Vendredi Saint, the 
 fingular object of which induces me to 
 mention it. It was held at the apartments 
 of the Comtefie de Choifeul, and attended 
 by moft of the fafhionable people. Agreea- 
 bly to the law of the afiembly, the gains of 
 the evening were to be difpofed of, at the 
 difcretion of the lady of the houfe, in pur- 
 pofes of charity. This is a cuftom of ancient 
 eftablifhment. 
 
 An afiembly of this nature, where plea- 
 fure and religion are combined, muft give 
 birth to many fingular impreflions. No 
 day in the calendar can wear a more gloomy 
 face, or excite more devotional fentiments 
 in the breaft of a catholic, than the day of 
 the crucifixion. Every means are employed 
 to excite fuperflidous horror, and recal to the 
 mind the memory of that darknefs which en- 
 veloped the face of the earth. All thar 
 breathes the air of diffipation muft be en- 
 tirely banifhed, and amufement fo qualified 
 
 c fry
 
 i8 L E T T E R IV. 
 
 by motive, and fo chaftifed by aufterity, as 
 to receive the ferious caft of religious exer- 
 cife. To-morrow is, I underftand, the con- 
 cluding day of this fevere penance: con- 
 folation will then be admmiftered to the 
 confciences of the devotees, who will 
 emerge, fully acquitted of all paft guilt, arid 
 at liberty to commence a frefii account. 
 The ftreets, parade, and promenades will 
 refume their brilliancy : at prefent, they ex- 
 hibit a ftriking picture of fpiritual indolence. 
 Superftition has long fince confecrated this 
 week to purpofes which are deemed incom- 
 patible with fecular occupation. The days 
 being too facred for labour, and too long for 
 devotion, a great part of time is yawned 
 away in liftlefs ennui.- 
 
 The confecration of days* is a cuftom of 
 barbarous origin; and the pious enthufiafm 
 of the firft chriftians gave it the fanction of 
 their own obfervance. The church of Eng- 
 
 * This is only to be underftood in reference to days con- 
 fecrated to particular ferfons. 
 
 land,
 
 LETTER IV. 19 
 
 land, which has had the merit of reftoring 
 to fociety the days and weeks hallowed by 
 bigotry, ftill retains fome few, which fhe 
 refufes to fecularize, and which ferve, like 
 the ancient hangings in a modernized man- 
 fion, to mark the date of the edifice, and 
 perpetuate the tafte of thofe who undertook 
 its reform. It is plain, the contract between 
 pried and people in thofe regions of fuper- 
 ftition, is very much in favour of the former, 
 though equally to the fatisfaclion of each. 
 The latter furrender without reluctance 
 the fruits of their labour to the ufe of the 
 former, who only engage for an undefined 
 retribution a bright reversion in the fky 
 at fome future and diftant period. 
 
 C 2
 
 LETTER V. 
 
 Bruflels, April 24, 
 
 V AM juft returned from aflifting at a cere- 
 mony, in which I appeared to myfelf 
 to make no very refpedable figure. A pro- 
 clamation, pofted in a public fpot near the 
 Hotel de Ville, announced the return of a 
 celebrity, in which all pious catholics take 
 great intereft, and from which, agreeably to 
 the tenor of the advertifement, every devout 
 chriftian might derive great advantage. It 
 was the celebration of an event mod im- 
 portant to the caufe of religion, in the pre- 
 fervation of the Image of the Virgin Mary, 
 from the anti-catholic zeal of the reformers 
 of Scotland. The attachment of her friends 
 induced them to hazard much for her fafety. 
 They fled beyond fea with her, and after a 
 
 thoufand
 
 L E T T E R V. 21 
 
 thoufand miracles, and experiencing nu- 
 merous viciflitudes, " per varies fluctus et 
 u tot difcrimina rerum," they aufpicioufly 
 reached Brufiels. Mafny honours were paid 
 her upon her arrival on the Continent, 
 and particularly at the ceremony of her 
 folemn reception among the Auguftine 
 monks. Succeflive popes concurred in 
 granting plenary pardons to all who would 
 commemorate the anniverfary of her happy 
 deliverance. The Image was placed in the 
 centre of the church, and illuminated with 
 numberlefs tapers. High mafs was fung, to 
 which fucceeded a variety of religious di- 
 vertifementS) intended to reprefent the hair- 
 breadth efcapes the Virgin had experienced, 
 and the efficacy which this wonderful Image 
 ftill poflefled. All feemed eager to croud 
 around her, and fome never quitted her feet. 
 A fplendid proceflion concluded the fervice : 
 and the holy fathers chaunted their lays, 
 preceded by all kinds of myfterious infignia, 
 from their own to the church of St. Gedule. 
 
 e 3 As
 
 22 L E T T E R V. 
 
 As I was not fo deeply interefted in the 
 ceremonies as the reft of the congregation, 
 I had more leifure to comment on the 
 drama. The devotion of the people was 
 ynqueftionably fmcere. They bowed, and 
 proflrated themfeives, with an energy and fer- 
 vour, which indicated the moft unfufpicious 
 faith in her more than magnetical virtue. 
 I obferved feveral walking round the fhrine, 
 and bowing with the utmoft inconvenience 
 to themfeives, left they fhould accidentally 
 turn their backs upon her. As I had dif- 
 pofed myfelf in the middle of the aiile, the 
 proceflion pafied me, and gave me an oppor- 
 tunity of admiring the happy influence of a 
 religious life upon thefe holy fathers, who 
 leemed to have profited much from the 
 refidence cf the Virgin among them. Coun- 
 tenances more expremve of pleafure and 
 feftivity could not be found, even in the 
 paradife of Mahomet. It was not a little 
 furprifmg to fee fo great a multitude af- 
 lifting at thofe fervices, confidering the 
 
 regent
 
 L E T T E R V. 23 
 
 recent penance performed in the holy 
 week. 
 
 It fhould feem that the people of Bruflels 
 muft be defperate finners, or exemplary 
 faints. The quantum of holinefs, including 
 all the beads that are counted, and the Ave- 
 Marias that are faid, bears certainly, if any 
 allowance be made for human frailty, more 
 than a juft proportion to the ordinary 
 quantum of fin. But here mankind are 
 perfuaded that none of thofe pious duties 
 will be loft. When fufficient has been done 
 to cancel their own crimes, all fuper- 
 numerary ads become a fort of clear gain, 
 which refts entirely at their own difpofal. 
 The canons of the church allow the tranf- 
 fer of this, with the fame eafe as any other 
 fpecies of alienable property. If a man 
 die inteftate, it naturally reverts to the 
 church, and becomes a part of the eccle- 
 fiaftical fund. This commerce, in paft ages 
 fo productive to the proprietors, has fuf- 
 fered confiderably in its revenues. A great 
 c 4 part
 
 24 L E T T E R VI. 
 
 part of Europe, however, continues pioufly 
 attached to the old traffic, and multitudes 
 yet facrifice folid pofleffions for this imagi- 
 nary property; convinced, it fhould feem, 
 that the exchange is decidedly in their 
 favour. 
 
 BETTER VI, 
 
 Bruffeb, April 27, 1791. 
 
 E gloom is diflipated, the curtain is 
 drawn up, and the gay orgies of plea- 
 fure fucceed to the melancholy folemnities 
 of penance. The theatre is opened, the 
 artificers refume their occupations, and the 
 circles of the fafhionable world their amufe- 
 ments. If I read aright the countenances 
 of thofe who are emerged from religious 
 aufterity to pleafurabie relaxation, they are 
 not a little gratified by the change. The 
 torrent of feftivity, which is now opened, 
 
 appears
 
 L E T T E R VI. 25 
 
 appears to infmuate, that religious aufterity 
 has had its effect ; that its devout fubje&s 
 have amply cancelled all paft guilt, and 
 made, as it were, Heaven their creditor for 
 future fins. 
 
 The theatre is under very bad manage- 
 ment. The edifice itfelf is fufficiently large 
 and commodious, but the fcenery and the 
 performers are much below mediocrity; 
 though the enormous price paid for the 
 boxes, which are engaged by particular per- 
 fons, brings in a revenue fully adequate to 
 its fupport. The fociety here is numerous 
 and brilliant ; regular evenings are appro- 
 priated to thofe ladies who lead the ton. 
 
 In addition to thofe which are eftablifhed, 
 and of ordinary recurrence, concerts and 
 dances are occafionally given. An intro- 
 duction once effected, and the regular 
 ceremonies of etiquette performed, the 
 whole field of amufement is opened, and 
 wherever you hear mention of feftivities, 
 you are at liberty to participate them. The 
 2 Comtefle
 
 26 L E T T E R VI. 
 
 Comtefle de Choifeul is at the head of thefe 
 parties ; at a very advanced period of life, 
 {he pofieflfes found health and hilarity of 
 fpirits. The duties and the pleafures of life 
 occupy the whole of her attention, and her 
 time is divided between amufement and 
 devotion. The dignity of her age and fiction, 
 and the courteoufnefs of her mariners, give 
 her the higheft importance in the fafhionable 
 aflemblies. 
 
 The modem champion of chivalry has 
 expreffed in terms of brilliant lamentation, 
 his iorrow for the extinction of the ancient 
 gallantry of France. But this I affure you, 
 that, however expatriated, and rooted from 
 its native foil, gallantry flourifties here with 
 increafing vigour: and in no part of Eu- 
 rope, perhaps, is the empire of the fair fex fo 
 firmly eftabiiihed. All who would move 
 in the fphere of polite life, muft pafs the 
 ordeal of female fcrutiny. 
 
 The " Ladies club," is by far the moft 
 brilliant fociety here, and this club difpofes 
 
 of
 
 LETTER VI. 27 
 
 of the fates of every ftranger, who folicits a 
 part in the amufements of the place. The 
 ladies who compofe it have their regular 
 times of meeting, and of fettling bufmefs. 
 The ftranger who fues for initiation muft 
 in due form be propofed ; and, under the 
 direction of the lady prefident, the club 
 proceeds to a ballot. Nor is this always an 
 ineffective form. 
 
 The club gave a ball lately at the hotel 
 " Prince de Galles." Each female member 
 has the privilege of introducing a gentleman 
 for the evening, and it was in virtue of 
 this privilege that I obtained admittance. 
 The company were numerous, and exhibited 
 a fplendid {how of beauty and rank. The 
 greater part was formed by the fugitive 
 noblefle of France. Here were rallied the 
 fcattered members of the dif-embodied 
 phalanx ; and, in defiance of decrees and 
 fpoliations, gave brilliancy and hilarity to 
 the aflembly.
 
 E 28 3 
 
 LETTER VII. 
 
 Bruffels, May I, 1791. 
 
 pOLiTENESSisa term with all mankind 
 of familiar and continual life ; all fup- 
 pofe they underftand it; and to requeft a 
 definition, would be to offer an affront. I 
 had an opportunity a few evenings paft, of 
 feeing it exemplified, at leaft in a manner 
 
 very entertaining, by the Marquis de , 
 
 who has lately purchafed an eftate in the 
 vicinity of BrufTels, upon the excellence of 
 which, he was enlarging to fome Englifh 
 ladies the convenience of his houfe,and the 
 elegance of his gardens, in which he had 
 exactly copied the Englifh ftile. He had 
 ftored his cellars with excellent wine, and 
 nothing was wanting to his felicity, but the 
 honour of their opinion upon the tafte and 
 
 execution
 
 LETTER VII. 29 
 
 execution of the whole. The ladies gave 
 him to underftand, that his defcription had 
 fo fafcinated them, that they would certainly 
 not lofe fo fair an opportunity of being 
 amufed. 
 
 This was what the Marquis neither in- 
 tended nor expected, yet the embarraflment 
 caufed no vifible interruption of his conver- 
 fation. Nothing could indeed charm him 
 more than the honour the ladies intended 
 him, but he muft not at the fame time ne- 
 glect to inform them that his houfe had 
 fufFered confiderably in the late tumults 
 his ground had been ravaged his plant- 
 ations deflroyed his cellars robbed and, 
 in a word, fuch diforders committed, that 
 the prefent fituation of his villa would not 
 recompenfe the ladies for the trouble they 
 would be at in vifidng him ; and, conclud- 
 ing with a turn of pleafantry and a hand- 
 fome bow, left the room with an air " par 
 " faitement .bien" 
 
 I was
 
 3<J LETTER VIIL 
 
 I was forcibly ftruck by the addreffe with 
 which the Marquis extricated himfelf from 
 this delicate diftrefs, without any fymptom 
 of alarm, or violation of gallantry. His 
 advance and retreat were equally finifhed 
 in their kind ; and we were compelled to 
 acknowledge, that no man could make an 
 offer with more politenefs, than a French- 
 man ; and no man could relieve himfelf from 
 the pain of fulfilling it, with a better grace. 
 
 LETTER VIIL 
 
 Bruffels, April 29, 1791. 
 
 is a philofophy which can tri- 
 umph over the accidents of life, which 
 can fmile in the face of the moft calamitous 
 events, and blunt the fhafts of the moft 
 adverfe fortune. It is the philofophy of 
 the heart, and has no connection with the 
 fabricated fyftems of the fchools. No na- 
 tion upon earth exemplify fo ftrongly the 
 
 truth
 
 LETTER VIII. 3E 
 
 truth of this maxim, nor give fuch evi- 
 dence of the operation of its principle, as 
 the French. Expelled a country which 
 gave them birth diverted of all that gave 
 them importance ftript of their hereditary 
 honours and patrimonial fortunes, they 
 retain what gold or titles could never give, 
 and what no decree can take away, " la 
 " gaiete de cceur? BrufTels, at this moment, 
 proves an afylum to almoft all the ex- 
 patriated noblefle of France. Every hour 
 announces fome new arrival, and hotels and 
 promenades are thronged to excefs. 
 
 The accumulated evils which purfue 
 thefe fplendid fugitives, the fatal diflodgment 
 they have experienced from the feats which 
 their anceftors had occupied for ages, and 
 which the fanction of government, the pre- 
 fcription of time, and the temper of their vaf- 
 fals,feemed to augur eternal, would be fuffici- 
 ent to deprefs a people lefs infenfible of cala- 
 mity. The morning is however occupied 
 in councils, the evening in cards; the pref- 
 3
 
 31 LETTER V1IL 
 
 fing exigencies of bufinefs have not weak-* 
 ened in them the thirft of pleafure ; though 
 plots, aflaffinations, and all the horrid ma- 
 chinations of defeated ariftocracy fill the 
 hours of cabal, they find no place in the 
 circles of fociety. Counter revolutions fall 
 before " La bagatelle" No plots are agi- 
 tated beyond intrigue ; and no aflaffinations 
 meditated but of time and fpleen. 
 
 No man who mixes with the evening 
 parties would imagine that the counte- 
 nances he beholds on thofe occafions, are 
 worn by men who are bankrupts in fortune 
 and in title. The charms of fong, the 
 movements of the dance, and the evolutions 
 of Faro equally intereft the whole: the 
 fame gefture, the fame volubility, the fame 
 enchanting vivacity animate the aflemblies, 
 that prevailed in days of better fortune. 
 
 The moft vigilant obferver would not 
 difcover a moment in which the memory 
 of annihilated grandeur induces a tranfient 
 gloom. If reports tranfpire of any new 
 
 patriotic
 
 LETTER VIIL 33 
 
 patriotic ravages, an involuntary figh efcapes, 
 which is inftantly replaced by returning 
 gaiety ; and neither air nor feature are 
 fuffered to betray the moft diftant fymptoms 
 of dejedion or defpair. An Englifhman 
 in fimilar circumftances would fly for refuge 
 to folitude, perhaps to fuicide. 
 
 The character of a Frenchman is to be 
 found in his language. A moderate man can 
 fcarcely fatisfy himfelf with the terms fuited 
 to the temper of his mind. All is exaggerated 
 and exceflive. If you attempt to be natural, 
 you will yet be figurative ; and can fcarcely 
 make yourfelf comprehended, without a 
 metaphor. 
 
 Such is the tone of this language, that 
 
 praife and blame, pleafure and pain, joy and 
 
 forrow, admit of no mediums. Charmant and 
 
 fuperbe is the lead you can fay of what is 
 
 recommended to your approbation : if you 
 
 fay lefs than vilaine of what you diflike, you 
 
 will be deemed phlegmatic; if you are 
 
 pleafed, you muft be rvw/; if you are 
 
 D vexed,
 
 34 LETTER VIIL 
 
 vexed, you muft be defole\ if yoft are not 
 in extacies, you muft be au defejpoir. All 
 thefe you may heighten by a thoufand arts, 
 and you will do the language very little 
 juftice without thefe augmentatives. If 
 charmant is not fufficient, repeat it, and you 
 will talk more like a Frenchman. There 
 are a million little prefixes which you may 
 employ to great advantage, tres 9 forty in- 
 jiniment) &c. which ferve to colour your 
 fenfations, and raife your expreflions as far 
 beyond nature as imagination extends. 
 
 The genius of the people accords exactly 
 with their language. The mod lively 
 forrow or rapturous joy is excited by the 
 moft trivial incident : but lively fenfations, 
 like vivid colours, are not made for per- 
 manence. Thus the man endued with this 
 temper of mind, will triumph over all the 
 efforts of malice or misfortune. He is 
 pcOefled of refources, which will illumine 
 the darkeft fcenes of mifery. He will 
 combat with undiminifhed confidence, 
 though thoufands fall ; and continue to hope, 
 where all others would defpair.
 
 t 3S 
 
 LETTER IX. 
 
 Bruflels, April 30, 1791* 
 
 varieties form the grand 
 fource of entertainment to a traveller: 
 nor is it of confequence to him, whether the 
 manners and cuftoms of the people he vifitSj 
 claim any manifeft fuperiority over thofe of 
 his own country ; it is fufficient for the pur- 
 pofes of his curiofity that they differ. No- 
 velty is the charm which commends them 
 to his attention, and the merit of the differ- 
 ence is a fubjecl: of fubfequent reflection. 
 
 A celebrated moral philofopher has af- 
 figned three laws for the government of 
 man, and as the rules of human conduct 
 the law of honour, the law of the land, and 
 the divine law. Thefe are certainly very 
 competent to the decifion of any queftion 
 D 2 la
 
 36 L E T T E R IX. 
 
 in morals, but had he chofen to have 
 been more univerfal, he might have added 
 a fourth law I mean, the law of etiquette ; 
 for the law of honour, in which fome might 
 fuppofe it included, only prohibits the per- 
 petration of any ad which would degrade 
 the gentleman, or interrupt the offices of 
 focial harmony. This, therefore, applies 
 only to the more prominent parts of conduct, 
 and thofe actions which border upon mo- 
 rality. The law of etiquette confines itfelf 
 wholly to thofe minutiae of deportment, 
 which have as little connection with morals 
 as with phyfics. A word, a look, or a mo- 
 tion, contrary to etiquette, fixes upon you 
 the ftain of culpability. And then, though 
 you had obferved the other three with the 
 fpirit of a man, the fidelity of a citizen, and 
 the virtue of a faint ; you would ftand no 
 fairer chance of maintaining your rank in 
 polimed fociety, than a Hottentot. And fo 
 various are the character and fentiments of 
 the people of different countries, that a man 
 
 might
 
 L E T T E R IX. 37 
 
 might as well attempt to find the reafonings 
 of Newton in the fyftem of Des Cartes, and 
 deduce the doctrines of the Koran from the 
 writings of Voltaire, as to determine from 
 the general principles of politefle the max- 
 ims of national etiquette. 
 
 I was led to thefe reflections by a circum- 
 ftance which took place the evening of the 
 ball given by the ladies club. An Englifh 
 gentleman, who had been introduced as a 
 ftranger, and whofe ignorance of French 
 etiquette might feem to plead his excufe, 
 was actually obferved holding converfation 
 with his partner when the dance was ended. 
 Had (he been a married lady, this would 
 have attracted no notice. The circumftance 
 would have been imputed to gallantry, or in- 
 trigue, in either of which cafes, the lady is fub- 
 ject to no authority, and the gentleman re- 
 fponfible to no tribunal but that of her huf- 
 band. He is in all probability engaged in 
 too many funilar intrigues, to find leifure 
 for fo irkfome a bufinefs. Thus a tete-a-tete 
 of this nature would neither have been 
 D 3 deemed
 
 38 L E T T E R DC. 
 
 deemed criminal nor dangerous. But the 
 lady was unmarried^ and the extraordinary 
 conduct of the gentleman was referred to 
 the fudden influence of a foft attachment. 
 The eyes of the company were upon him. 
 " Le pauvre homme! il eft amoureux," 
 was circulated in whifpers. This fudden 
 paiiion filled up the chafm of converfation 
 in the morning circles; and my friend, 
 who had hitherto continued unfufpicious, 
 was furprifed the following evening, by 
 finding the eyes of the company pointedly 
 fixed upon him. He received with aftonifh- 
 ment the congratulations of fome, the con- 
 dolences of others, and the affurances of 
 all that he was really in love. It was in vain 
 that he denied the charge, and perfifted 
 againft the exiftence of the paflion j it was in 
 vain that he urged the fhortnefs of the con- 
 verfation, and the innocence of its object; all 
 were unanimous in deciding againft him : 
 and it was refolved nem. con. that when a 
 gentleman holds converfation with an un- 
 married
 
 L E T T E R X. 39 
 
 married lady, love muft be either the caufe 
 or the confequence. 
 
 I fhould perhaps intreat your indulgence, 
 when I record thofe trivial details. But 
 though the bold and prominent lines of 
 character are to be found in ads of higher 
 importance ; though heroifm is moft fuc- 
 cefsfully traced in the field, and fagacity in the 
 cabinet ; manners are only to be deciphered 
 in the lefier incidents of focial intercourfe. 
 It is the zephyr and the fhower which dif- 
 clofe the foliage of the rofe or the myrtle, 
 though ftcrms and tempefts may be neceflary 
 to prove the ftrength of the oak or the cedar. 
 
 LETTER X. 
 
 E park at Bruflels is a very charming 
 promenade. The walks are indeed 
 for the moft part ftraight, cutting each other 
 at right angles, and ornamented with ftatues. 
 There are, however, fome varieties in thofe 
 walks, not ufual in continental gardens. 
 D 4 The
 
 40 LETTERS 
 
 The buildings which face the park on each 
 fide, appear very magnificent from the dif 
 ferent avenues. In addition to the amufe- 
 ment of walking, you may retire into fome 
 rooms, which are to be found in the recefles 
 of the gardens, to drink cvjfee^ liqueurs, &c, 
 and read the papers of the day. The 
 fafhionable people are to be feen upon the 
 walks ufually from twelve to one, and 
 mixed ranks of people in great numbers 
 promenade here in the evening. 
 
 I have been to vifit a place in the en- 
 virons of Bruflels, which is efteemed one of 
 the moft ftriking beauties of the vicinity ; 
 it is the palace of the arch-duchefs, and built 
 of a beautiful ftone. It merits well the 
 eulogium that has been pafled upon it. The 
 apartments are large and well finifhed, and 
 the fituation commands a very charming 
 and extenfive profpect. The grounds are, 
 agreeable to the reigning fafhion on the 
 continent, laid out a 1'Angloife, and dif- 
 
 cover
 
 L E T T E R X. 4 , 
 
 cover feme tafte. The furniture of the 
 Palace, which is faid to be uncommonly 
 elegant, was removed, in confequence of the 
 outrages committed during the late troubles. 
 It is now about to be replaced, and the 
 arch-duchefs is daily expected to refume 
 her court at BrufTels. 
 
 All the accounts I have received here, 
 refpe&ing the dernier coup of the revolu- 
 tionifts, are rilled with the tragical horrors 
 experienced by the inhabitants of Bruffels 
 and its environs. Public men and public 
 meafures were at firft the fole objects of the 
 popular indignation ; but upon the ill fuc- 
 cefs of the Brabanters, and the triumphs of 
 the Auftrians, the face of affairs changed, 
 and private property fell a facrifice to the 
 madnefs of the multitude. Abandoned by 
 their leaders and purfued by their enemies, 
 thefe unhappy wretches formed the defpe- 
 rate refolution of reftoring their ruined 
 hopes and .fortunes by a general pillage. 
 The ravages committed on this occafion 
 
 were
 
 4* LETTER^. 
 
 were unparalleled in number and enormity, 
 Not bounding their infolence to the public 
 roads and ftreets, they entered private 
 houfes, and committed all the outrageous 
 acts of an unprincipled banditti. The 
 entrance of the Audrian troops terminated 
 thofe depredations, and reftored to the dif- 
 ordcred town the appearance of tranquil- 
 lity. I fay, the appearance^ for I cannot re- 
 concile myfelf to the afpedt of a place in the 
 fituation of Bruflels at this moment. The 
 ftern countenances of the huzzars, who are 
 ftationed in all poflible avenues who eye 
 all our motions with the moft favage jea- 
 Joufy and who are authorized to fire upon 
 us at their difcretion, ftrike me with a 
 horror which I fhould fcarcely have felt 
 in the tumults which preceded their en- 
 trance. 
 
 The diforders of a mob are hideous, yet 
 if property is to be fecured at the expence of 
 liberty, and perfonal fafety to be bartered 
 for general protection, I cannot conceive 
 
 the
 
 I, E T T E R XL 43 
 
 the fituation greatly meliorated. For my 
 own part, I can as eafily imagine mifery to 
 prevail in a free government, as enjoyment 
 to exift under the control of military 
 law. 
 
 LETTER XL 
 
 BruflHs, May 2, 1791. 
 
 Y~\UR refolution is formed for quitting 
 BruiTels to-morrow, and entering upon 
 the tour of Holland. I leave with regret 
 this court of amufement, though the objects 
 which lie before me moft warmly interefl 
 my curiofity. A traveller fliould not long 
 reft at one place. He may refide with 
 fafety the period neceflary for obfervation ; 
 but if he pafs that limit, curiofity ripens 
 into attachment: he ftrikes his roots into 
 the foil, and is not torn away without re- 
 luctance. A longer refidence at BrufTeU 
 might produce this effect:. 
 
 If
 
 44 L E T T E R XI. 
 
 If I have framed juft fentiraents of the 
 character of a modern Fleming, this people 
 have fuffered confiderable degeneracy. In 
 the higher ranks of life, the intercourfe of 
 nations has very much affimilated the ex- 
 ternal characters of men, and the genuine 
 traits of nature are only to be developed, 
 where neither force nor fafhion have been 
 employed to new- model or refine. 
 
 The opinions which I have eftablifhed, 
 from my heft inveftigation, are very dif- 
 advantageous to the prefent race. The 
 moft prominent features in their character 
 are ignorance, dulnefs, and obftiriacy. A 
 jnore provoking trio of evil properties can- 
 not be imagined. It was our misfortune, 
 in more than one inftance, to be the victims 
 of them. In the high road between Ghent 
 arid BruflTels, we efcaped by a miracle, 
 from the accidental fracture of the fhaft 
 of the carriage, the confequences of 
 an overthrow. The alarm occafioned by 
 this cataftrophe foon brought around us 
 
 the
 
 L E T T E R XI. 45 
 
 the boors of the adjoining village, who, 
 with folded arms and vacant countenances, 
 encircled the chaife, offering no affiftance, 
 and talking, as if each were emulous to out- 
 croak his fellow in their horrid guttural 
 jargon. At length the arrival of the poft- 
 mafter was announced. Scraps of cordage 
 were immediately employed, and this expert 
 veteran, having ended his job, bade the 
 poftilion lead forward. " Allez," faid he, 
 and turning to me, " Soyez tranquilles 
 " meflieurs tout ira bien, vous ne rifquerez 
 " rien ; J'en reponds." Thefe words were 
 fcarcely uttered, when every knot gave up 
 its hold, with an explofion which induced 
 us to difmount with all convenient fpeed ; 
 the carriage was then dragged to the neareft 
 town, and put into the hands of a profefled 
 artificer. It was difficult, among the multitude 
 of workmen, to diftinguifh who was prin- 
 cipal, not fewer than fifteen or twenty being 
 employed in this paltry bufmefs. We foon 
 perceived -that this Herculean tafk furpafTed 
 
 2 their
 
 46 L E T T E R XI. 
 
 their talents, and urged to them the ineffi- 
 ciency of their contrivances; but our advice 
 and directions were treated with equal con- 
 tempt, and the confequence was, that the 
 {haft broke from its hold before we had 
 loft fight of the town. 
 
 The inhabitants of the Belgic provinces 
 were always a brave and a hardy people, 
 but never famed for quicknefs or pene- 
 tration. The pillars of their fame are 
 monuments rather of induftry than of 
 genius. They have acquired the praife of 
 agricultural {kill, for the patient labour 
 which they beftowed upon the improve- 
 ment of their marfhy lands. Their tapef- 
 tries were the admiration of Europe, before 
 the reign of good tafte commenced ; and if 
 their fchool of painters be excepted, they 
 have, I believe, little elfe to boaft. As to 
 their moral qualities, they rank, if poffible, 
 ftill lower than their intellectual. Impo- 
 fition and extortion circumvent you on all 
 fides no vigilance of your own will avail 
 
 you;
 
 LETTER XII. 4? 
 
 you; and no magiftrate will attend to 
 your complaint. Againft fraud and dif- 
 honefty there are no laws, or the laws have 
 no energy. You even frequently become 
 the victim of rapacity to the very organ of 
 juftice ; and the man whom you would 
 punim, is the judge to whom you muft 
 appeal. 
 
 LETTER XII. 
 
 Spa, May 17, 1791. 
 
 ^T-HE fcenes which have intervened fince 
 my laft, are fo numerous, and their 
 fucceffion fo rapid, that I feem to have 
 made a vifionary journey. In thirteen 
 days we have defcribed a courfe which 
 might well have occupied thrice the num- 
 ber. Our route lay by Antwerp, where 
 we pafled the firft day after quitting Bruf- 
 fels. No town has been more celebrated' 
 for its fplendour and its importance than 
 4 Antwerp,
 
 4 8 LETTER Xlt. 
 
 Antwerp. Entering it with expectations 
 raifed to no common height, my difap* 
 pointment was proportionately fevere. Its 
 buildings are, indeed, formed upon a bold 
 model, and exhibit fine fpeciments of an- 
 cient architecture. 
 
 The church of Notre Dame is a cabinet of 
 rare workmanfhip and exquifite paintings. It 
 has not the polimed elegance of St. Bavon at 
 Ghent, but it is in my opinion more majeftic 
 and venerable. The grand altar piece by Ru- 
 bens, however, made me regard all other 
 objects with comparative indifference. This 
 celebrated painting is a defcent from the 
 crofs, and pofleffes an energy, a beauty, 
 and an expreffion, which entitle it to rank 
 with the firft productions of this mafter. I 
 believe it is generally allowed of this paint- 
 ing, that it has the united excellencies of 
 defign and colouring in a very eminent 
 degree, and connoifleurs give it a place 
 in the higheft clafs of crucifixion pieces. 
 
 The
 
 LETTER XII. 49 
 
 The churches and convents are fo nu- 
 merous at Antwerp, that no one but an 
 amateur of the fine arts, of the moft ex- 
 hauftlefs patience, could attend to a par- 
 ticular inveftigation of the whole. For my 
 own part, I could fcarcely refolve upon 
 undertaking the routine, fuch a melancholy 
 afpect clouded the face of every thing- the 
 ftreets appeared depopulated the beft 
 houfes cleared of the inhabitants neither 
 the buftle of trade, nor the rattle of amufe- 
 ment, were to be heard. The channel of 
 commerce has been diverted, and pleafure 
 flown to other climes: fix thoufand Auftrian 
 troops were in poffeffion of this town, the 
 fanaticifm and violence of which made fo 
 confpicuous a figure in the late Belgic revo- 
 lution. Though Leopold's clemency pafTed 
 an act of amnefty and oblivion, numbers 
 refufed to return, either from obftinacy or 
 diftruft. 
 
 We went to the theatre in the evening, 
 
 which exhibited a melancholy picture of 
 
 E defertion.
 
 5 o LETTER XII. 
 
 defertion. The only amufement which 
 attra&s at prefent, is derived from the evo- 
 lutions of the parade, which are performed 
 in the Place de Mer. Here you may ob- 
 ferve a motley aflemblage, of which Abbes 
 compofe the greater part, ranged on the 
 feveral fides, and with folded arms feeking 
 fome occupation for the heavy hours. 
 Scarcely any provifions are to be purchafed 
 in the town, and the fmall market which 
 has furvived holds up a price beyond the 
 capacities of all but the rich. 
 
 The ftorm, though humed, is not 
 diflipated. Many unquiet fpirits remain, 
 whom neither force nor favour have yet 
 fubdued. Secret combinations ftill exift; 
 the cap of liberty is occafionally exhibited, 
 and the name of VANDERNOODT devoutly 
 invoked. A convivial meeting had, fome 
 few evenings paft, expanded the hearts of 
 fome old rebels ; and the orgies of Bacchus 
 having rekindled the flames of freedom, this 
 fally of intemperance was not terminated 
 
 without
 
 LETTER XII. 51 
 
 without the intervention of the military. 
 Dangers more ferious may be apprehended 
 from the ambition of the Pruffian court, 
 which will doubtlefs lofe no opportunity 
 of re-animating the Belgic difcontents ; nor 
 is it quite clear that the Houfe of Orange 
 will hold itfelf bound by the faith of the laft 
 treaty to continue neuter. 
 
 The manoeuvres of the Houfe of Branden- 
 burg are generally known in the late revo- 
 lution, and the negotiations of Vandernoodt 
 with the Houfe of Orange have not loft 
 their impreilion. The fate of Belgia is not 
 yet decided, and Leopold holds on a very 
 unfure tenure this part of his dominions. 
 
 The general temper of the people may 
 be inferred from the general afpect of the 
 country, in which nothing is to be read but 
 dejedion or difcontent. Were the over- 
 tures of the Emperor cordially embraced, 
 cheerfulnefs would have relumined the 
 countenance; induftry and amufement 
 would have been profecuted as ufual, and 
 2 every
 
 52 LETTER XIIL 
 
 every thing ere now -have recovered its 
 tone. But, when all Magnates when trade 
 has no vigour, and pleafure no attraction 
 a juft foundation exifls for fufpicion, that 
 the wound is not yet healed ; - that though 
 quelled by terror, the fpirit of fedition yet 
 rages in fecret ; and only wants a favourable 
 moment for breaking forth with aggravated 
 fury. 
 
 LETTER XIIL 
 
 N TWERP is one among thofe numerous 
 cities which have experienced the 
 viciflitudes of fortune. For near two cen- 
 turies it aftonifhed Europe by the mag- 
 nitude of its riches, and the extent of its 
 commerce. Equally celebrated for the arts 
 of war and peace, it fuftained with firm- 
 nefs the attacks of its enemies. The ob- 
 flinate refiftance made by this city to the 
 Duke of Parma, and the ten months fiege 
 7 *
 
 LETTER XIII. 53 
 
 it fuftained in 1585, form a very honour- 
 able part of its hiftory. In common with 
 the other Belgic towns, it has repeatedly 
 changed its matters, and been repeatedly 
 the fubjed: of war and pillage. Rubens 
 and Vandyke, Cramage, Plantin, and Mu- 
 retus, are among the number of thofe who 
 have diftinguifhed Antwerp as a mother of 
 the fine arts, and a nurfe of literature. 
 
 Weakened by fucceflive afiaults from its 
 neighbours, and its tyrants, Antwerp ex- 
 perienced its laft and moft decifive blow 
 from the Hollanders, by the treaty of 
 Munfter. This treaty, configning to Hol- 
 land the exclufive navigation of the Scheld, 
 cut off the refources of commercial wealth, 
 and precipitated the declining grandeur of 
 this ancient city, the gloomy and deferted 
 edifices of which ftill remain the monu- 
 ments of its paft fplendour. One trait 
 which ever diftinguifhed this city, is ftill to 
 be found in its .decayed and fallen ftate. 
 Fanaticifm has fuffered no diminution, nor 
 E 3 have
 
 54 LETTER XIII. 
 
 have any of thofe rude aflaults which fub- 
 verted its wealth and its commerce, weak- 
 ened or impaired its rooted attachment to 
 the Catholic faith. 
 
 No place in Europe is fo immediately 
 under the influence of every religious ab- 
 furdity. All the long feries of monkifh 
 iniquities has not convinced thefe people of 
 the poflibility of error in ecclefiaflics ; and 
 their confciences, their faith, and their 
 purfes, are ftill at the difpofal of priefts and 
 prelates. The late revolution owed much 
 of its energy to the religious prejudices of 
 this deluded people ; and Antwerp and 
 Malines difcovered the genuine fury of 
 fanatiSifm. The notorious Van Eupen, 
 who acted fo principal a part in that poli- 
 tical drama, was originally a canon of this 
 place; and if we may credit the intelli- 
 gence received in thofe parts, and the uni- 
 verfal tone of the writings of that time, his 
 hiftory is not greatly to the credit of ecclefi- 
 aftical purity. In the capacity of Grand 
 9 Peniten-
 
 LETTER XIII, 55 
 
 Penitentiary, to which he was exalted by 
 the liberal patronage of the Bifhop of Ant- 
 werp, his province comprehended all fpi- 
 ritual jurii'didion over the numerous inha- 
 bitants of this great fee. All cafes of con- 
 fcience, doubts of faith, and religious em- 
 barrafTments, came under his review, and 
 were determined by his decifions. The 
 duties of his office introduced him into the 
 clofets of all, and the illapfes of the fpirit 
 were fometimes made fubfervient to the 
 impulfes of the flefh. * * * * * 
 
 Such was the man who moved the prin- 
 cipal fprings in thofe tumults, which fo 
 lately fhook the Belgic ftates. Vandernoodt, 
 though foremoft in name, was but the organ 
 of this arch-politician ; who, expatriated by 
 crimes which infult heaven and earth, had 
 no hope of recovering his forfeited fortunes, 
 but by entering his country fword in hand. 
 To compafs his re-eftablifliment, he praclifed 
 all the arts of political hypocrify. He is 
 naturally cool, iubtle, and enterprifing 
 E 4 under
 
 56 LETTER XIII. 
 
 under the garb of fanctity, he has a heart 
 capable of any crime. Patriotifm was the 
 lure he held out, and by his addrefs he con- 
 trived to obtain credit, till he was detected 
 in embroiling, by infidious artifices, the feve- 
 ral parties of the date ; afperfmg by his 
 emiflaries the intentions of thofe, who from 
 principle efpoufed the caufe of the Bel- 
 gians covering with the mantle of religion 
 the machinations of rebellion ; and la- 
 bouring to eftablifh the empire of the 
 church and the noblefle, upon the blended 
 ruins of imperial authority and democratic 
 freedom. The conciliatory meafures of Leo- 
 pold were very ill calculated to ferve the ends 
 of this arch-hypocrite. He therefore em- 
 ployed every fmifter engine to prevent a union. 
 The reconciliation which took place between 
 the contending parties defeated his defigns 
 of perfonal aggrandizement, and compelled 
 him to fly from juftice into fome diftant 
 clime, where his hypocrify may hereafter 
 play a more fuccefsful game upon the cre- 
 dulity of mankind.
 
 [ 57 
 
 LETTER XIV. 
 
 T TE took the route by Breda into Holland, 
 and for a few leagues rolled along a 
 
 good paveg) and then entered upon a road, 
 which, had we not actually pafTed it, might 
 very fairly have been deemed impaffable. 
 A deep fand formed the foil, elevated into 
 mounds on one fide, funk into hollow pits 
 on the other, and in many places com- 
 pletely buried in water of confiderable ex- 
 tent; every ftep the horfes took required 
 great exertion, and their utmoft efforts 
 could never accelerate them beyond a foot- 
 pace. It was near ten o'clock when we 
 entered Breda, and it was fortunate for us 
 that the gates do not finally clofe before 
 that time. 
 
 All the country between Antwerp and 
 Breda, for many miles, exhibits a melan- 
 
 choly
 
 5$ LETTER XIV. 
 
 choly fcene vaft wilds and deferts which 
 feem to defy the hand of culture, and upon 
 which the moft laborious induftry would 
 operate in vain. The latenefs of the even- 
 ing concealed from our view the change 
 of country which takes place as you ap- 
 proach Breda, which is a neat and well 
 fortified town. 
 
 We experienced a very ftriking change 
 in every object around us ; the houfes and 
 ftreets had neither the awkwardnefs nor the 
 filthinefs of the Brabant towns. An air 
 of eafe, vivacity, and content pervaded the 
 countenances of all the foldiers wore a 
 lefs hoftile afpect neither folded arms nor 
 fauntering paces were to be feen ; activity, 
 vigour, and induftry feemed to prevail ; 
 and each appeared emulous to perform the 
 duties of his occupation. 
 
 Breda may claim no inconfiderable merit 
 from the public places which adorn it. The 
 palace of the Prince of Orange 'is delight- 
 fully fituated, and the gardens which fur- 
 round
 
 LETTER XIV. 59 
 
 round it are a great ornament to the town. 
 The church of the Proteftants is a very 
 noble edifice it is hung with efcutcheons, 
 which diffufe a gloom around the facred 
 walls, and are but an indifferent fucce- 
 daneum to the mafterly paintings which fill 
 the Romim churches. The monuments 
 which are raifed againft the walls in tfie 
 Englifli churches oftener deface than adorn 
 the buildings; but the numerous efcutche- 
 ons which inveft the walls of the beft 
 churches in Holland give them more the 
 air of maufoleums, than of places of 
 worfhip. There is a very ancient tomb 
 of marble in one of the :recefles, now 
 crumbling into ruins. What remains is 
 however a curious monument of early 
 tafte and primitive fculpture. 
 
 Breda was diftinguimed as the head- 
 quarters of the late revolutionary intrigues. 
 It was here that the firft committee was 
 formed under the joint conduct of Vander- 
 
 noodt
 
 6o LETTER xiv. 
 
 noodt and Van Eupen. This committee, 
 at which the factious nobles of Brabant 
 attended, declared Vander-Merfch general 
 of the troops which they refolved to raife ; 
 and publifhed a manifefto, dated at Hoogf- 
 traten, in the name of the people of 
 Brabantt This manifefto was, by a de- 
 cree of the Auftrian government, defiroyed 
 at. Bruflels, and feveral members of the 
 fecret committee taken into cuftcdy. Three 
 thoufand infurgents upon this attacked 
 and captured the forts of Lillo and Lief- 
 henfhoek. This was the firft blow ftruck 
 by them, and the government diftracled 
 by internal divifions now loft all energy. 
 The defeat of Chroeder at Turnhout foon 
 followed, which gave fpirit to the revo- 
 lutionifts, and excited the higheft alarm at 
 the court of Bruflels. The entry of the 
 rebels into Ghent, and the difhonourable 
 retreat of D'Arbers with his four thoufand 
 troops, gave to the revolution a force and a 
 
 refpecta-
 
 LETTER XIV. 61 
 
 refpedability, which profelyted thofe who, 
 averfe to its principle, would yet profit 
 from its fuccefs. 
 
 The impolitic meafure of concluding an 
 armiftice at Tirlemont by D'Alton, at the 
 head of an army fully competent to anni- 
 hilate the rebels, was the finifhing ftroke of 
 this ill-judging infatuated miniftiy. The 
 armiftice opened a channel for commu- 
 nication between the regular troops and 
 the vagrant rebels ; and the glow of patri- 
 otifm being thus difieminated, not lefs than 
 joo men deferted at once -filling the air 
 with the moft outrageous fhouts of liberty 
 and revolution. Thefe were of the regi- 
 ment of Murray ; their example operated 
 upon others- defertions took place from 
 all quarters, and every part of Bruflels 
 refounded with the popular cry of" Vivent 
 cc les Patriotes ! Au Diable les Royalifles 1" 
 This was fhortly after fucceeded by the de- 
 parture of the Auftrian troops from Bruf- 
 fels, which Vandernoodt on the iSth De- 
 cember
 
 62 LETTER XIV. 
 
 cember 1789 entered with all the tri- 
 umphal honours of a proud victor ; was 
 hailed with the loudeil acclamations as the 
 fubverter of tyranny, and the author of 
 Belgic independence. 
 
 I muft entreat your pardon for the frequent 
 .reflections with which I trouble you on the 
 iBelgic affairs. Every part of Brabant bears 
 flie veftiges of the late commotions, and in- 
 terefts by its melancholy afpect our pity and 
 indignation. The court of Berlin had doubt- 
 lefs fome objects of profound policy to 
 compafs in fomenting the difcontents of the 
 Belgian^ againft the Auftrian government. 
 The transfer of the Belgic provinces to the 
 Pruffia n fovereignty would have furnifhed 
 that p ower with a vaft afcendant, and en- 
 abled it to aflume a tone with the Emperor 
 very much to the advantage of its autho- 
 rity. Holland, ever attentive to the main 
 point , contemplated xvith a feeling beyond 
 indifi ference the apprehended difunion of 
 the 1 3elgic ftates from the Auftrian govern- 
 ment-
 
 LETTER XIV. 63 
 
 ment regardlefs who fways the fceptre, 
 provided they occupy the market, thefe 
 prudent fpeculators promifed themfelves an 
 augmentation of their commercial advan- 
 tages. This is the notorious object of Dutch 
 intrigue, and their neighbours, who ex- 
 perience its effects, were not at a lofs to 
 account for the fecret fuel added to the 
 flames of rebellion. " Le feul avantage 
 " qu'ils en veulent tirer," faid the Bra- 
 banters ; " c'eft de vendre aux Beiges 
 " de mauvaifes munitions a tres-haut 
 " prix."
 
 LETTER XV. 
 
 TTOLLAND is certainly a very convenient 
 country to travel through, provided a 
 man will make up his mind to difpenfe with 
 thefplendourof equipage. All the roads which 
 communicate with its environs are intolerably 
 bad, but a carriage of the country will roll 
 over them without difficulty, yet not always 
 without alarm to the traveller. Had we avail- 
 ed ourfelves of the precaution given before 
 we quitted BrufTels, of leaving our carriage 
 at Antwerp, we fhould have experienced 
 lefs difficulty in paffing the moor between 
 that place and Breda. The grand advan- 
 tage in making the tour of Holland arifes 
 from the canals which pierce the country, 
 and form an agreeable mode of communi- 
 cation between the feveral places. 
 
 We
 
 L E T T E R XV. 65 
 
 We had been led into an error by the in- 
 ftru&ions furnifhed us at Breda, and had 
 entered a veflel for Rotterdam, which we 
 foon found ill-adapted for the conveyance 
 of paflengers. Our fituation in it became 
 irkfome the veflel was dirty the cabin 
 filled with children. The air without was 
 extremely cold, and the Captain could only 
 reply to our complaints in a language we 
 did not underftand. Thefe difagreeables, 
 added to the apprehenfions of a long paf- 
 fage, the wind blowing hard and contrary, 
 induced us to form a refolution of abandon- 
 ing the veflel the firft opportunity, and try- 
 ing our fortune by land. 
 
 Shortly after our forming this determination 
 the veflel came to a mooring in the vicinity 
 of fome few houfes, from which we promifed 
 ourfelves information refpecting the route to 
 Rotterdam by land. We difembarked, to 
 reconnoitre ; and after many fruitlefs experi- 
 ments, had the good fortune to difcover a 
 fchool-m after, who underftanding French, ac- 
 I. p quainted
 
 65 L E T T E R XV. 
 
 quainted us with the particulars which we 
 \vifhed to learn. 
 
 Inftructed by him that we could procure 
 a cabriolet in the adjacent village, we re- 
 turned to the veffel, in order to fettle with 
 our Captain. It was a work of no fmall dif- 
 ficulty to make him comprehend our inten- 
 tions. We endeavoured, by figns, to teftify 
 that we were completely ennuled of this 
 mode of travelling. Every motion we made" 
 embarrafled him, till paying him the whole 
 fare of our pafiage, we threw our luggage 
 over our moulders, and left him to meditate 
 on the fingularity of our conduct, at which 
 he had little reafon to repine. By the good 
 offices of the village fchool-mafter we ob- 
 tained a carriage, and traverfed upon a 
 wretched road, through the moft wild, fwam- 
 py, and defert country, for more than a 
 league and a half. In our driver we had 
 the firft picture of a real Dutchman. In his 
 figure he was iliort, with broad hips, and 
 fpherical fhoulders : his features were fharp,. 
 i yet
 
 L E T T E R XV. 67 
 
 yet fteady a two-inch pipe iflued from his 
 mouth, and completed his profile. 
 
 One of the agremens of travelling in thefe 
 cabriolets, which are the only carriages that 
 can run over the heavy roads, is, that if the 
 wind fhould fet againfl you, it always comes 
 ftrongly impregnated with tobacco. It was 
 our fate, whenever we travelled, in thofe 
 carriages, to receive the incenfe which thofe 
 amateurs of the pipe are conftantly offering 
 to thofe who fit behind them. Our fitua- 
 tion reminded me of the inhabitants of the 
 upper regions^ who are ufually reprefented 
 as riding in cabriolets, inverted with circum- 
 ambient clouds. 
 
 By eight o'clock in the evening, we ar- 
 rived at the extreme limit of our journey 
 by land. Mynheer transferred us to the 
 commiffaire^ who was to anfwer for our con- 
 veyance over the Biefbock, ufually ftiled 
 the Moerdyke. There are no harlequins in 
 Holland. There may be fuch a thing as 
 difpatch^ in the warehoufes and manufac- 
 tures ; but I queftion if the language con- 
 F 2 tains
 
 68 LETTER XV. 
 
 tains an expreffion fynonimous to the En* 
 glim word hqfte. 
 
 All I mean by this, is, that though the 
 evening was fo far advanced, and we had fo 
 much water to crofs, thefe fteady-pacing 
 wights would not accelerate their move- 
 ments in arranging the few preliminaries 
 neceflary to embarkation. At length we 
 entered the boat, and caught a breeze, 
 which continued in our favour but a fhort 
 time; then veered and blew a head, and in 
 the third and laft place funk into a dead calm. 
 Night had now thrown a gloomy veil over 
 heaven and earth a pale and ill-formed 
 moon afforded a few faint glimmerings, 
 which opened our eyes to the tracks which 
 furrounded us. A mighty wafte of water, 
 whofe boundaries were only to be difcerncd 
 on one fide, prefented a moft chilling fcene ; 
 and the defolate fwamps, which furrounded 
 it, fcarcely wore a lefs melancholy afpecl:. A 
 - man and a boy were all who compofed tha 
 crew of the veflel conveying us over this 
 jo raelan-
 
 L E T T E R XV. 69 
 
 melancholy lake. We were barbarians to 
 each other : we could neither animate them 
 to activity, nor queftion them of our dan- 
 ger. How often have I deplored in my tour 
 through this country, the fatal ambition of 
 thofe proud architects, who, by their rafh 
 defigns upon heaven, provoked the divifion 
 of tongues, and the annihilation of univerfal 
 language. 
 
 Not to aggravate our perils by water, I 
 fliall remark that all was perfectly calm 
 that, if you except the extreme cold that pre- 
 vailed, the little profpect of coming to an 
 anchor in any reafonable time, the apprehen- 
 fion natural to a fituation of the moil dreary 
 defcription, at the mercy, and under the 
 direction of two ftrangers, whom we could 
 neither foften by promifes, nor alarm by 
 threats ; if you except thefe, and fome tri- 
 fling concomitant inconveniences, we en- 
 countered no evil of moment. But I muft 
 tell you, that our perils, which appeared at 
 their zenith on the water, were confiderably 
 F 3 augmented
 
 yo L E T T E R XV. 
 
 augmented when we gained the land ; for, 
 weaned with their exertions, our conduo 
 tors brought us to a mooring, which fuited 
 their convenience, but was very little to 
 our accommodation. No veftige of a houfe, 
 or habitable fpot, appeared. Our guides 
 pointed to us that we were to ufe our feet ; 
 and one preceding, and one bringing up the 
 rear, we traverfed a region of the moft 
 doleful appearance. Like the fiend that 
 bewilders the lorn traveller, our pilot carried 
 us over marfhes and fens, where we could 
 with difficulty find ground fqfEciently firm 
 to bear our feet. 
 
 The facility with which our leader fur- 
 mounted thofe embarraflments, was an ag- 
 gravation of our diftrefs. It was important 
 to our fafety that we kept clofe : we could 
 not check him, becaufe we could not ex^ 
 plain; and fome part of the track over 
 which he hurried us, was piled into heaps 
 of fwalhy clay, and, at numerous intervals, 
 dividkd by ftreams that broke from the ad- 
 joining
 
 LETTER XV. 7 i 
 
 joining canal. At length a gleam of light 
 Parted upon us, and preffing with anxious 
 exertion we arrived at a cabaret, where it 
 was deflined we iliould pafs the remainder 
 of the night. 
 
 If you tell me that I have drawn a me- 
 lancholy picture of thefe pigmy perils, I 
 aflfure you that they appeared to us in gi- 
 gantic forms. Though 1 guarded you 
 againft the expectation of prodigious events, 
 I did not intend to encounter danger, or 
 combat terrors, without making you a party 
 in our adventures. If it fuit the mournful 
 temper of your foul, you may commiferate 
 our painful fenfations. If, on the contrary, 
 this finds you in the moment of gaiety, you 
 are welcome to laugh at our embarralT- 
 ments, provided you triumph in our fuccefs,
 
 [ 7' 3 
 
 LETTER XVI. 
 
 HE Dutch are reprefented as very 
 trickifh and impofmg. This charac- 
 ter applies in the great towns, but I have a 
 better opinion of the villagers. They have 
 all the marks of honefly, and certainly all the 
 agremens of cleanlinefs. An old woman 
 opened the door to us, after having fatisfied 
 herfelf by queftions to our guides of our 
 good intentions. She conducted us into a 
 chamber, which, from its fituation, I fhould 
 rather ftyle a cellar. We were thoroughly 
 wetted by, what an Hibernian alone would 
 call, our land expedition ; and a very few 
 figns made the old matron comprehend that 
 we wifhed for a fire, which, by her induf- 
 trious attentions, ibon blazed before us. 
 
 She
 
 LETTER XVI. 73 
 
 She then opened, what appeared to us, a 
 cupboard-door, full three feet from the 
 ground; when a voice from within ad- 
 drefled us in French. We held a fhort dia- 
 logue, in which the invifible perfon engaged 
 to furnifh us a carriage in the morning, 
 when, wifliing us a good night, the old 
 woman clofed the door upon him. 
 
 The Dutch are very induftrious, and rife 
 very early men of all ranks drink coffee in 
 great abundance. The labourers fip their 
 coffee before they go out to their tcils, and 
 appear to eat very little. This may, in all 
 probability, be owing to the quantities of 
 fpirits which they are accuflomed to fwallow. 
 I have repeatedly feen the moft robuft men 
 taking their morning's meal, previous to the 
 fatigues of the field, and this has confided 
 in two or three cups of weak coffee, a glafs 
 or two of Hollands then the pipe is kin- 
 dled, and with one, fcarcely fquare inch of 
 bread, thefe laborious hinds are equipped for 
 the moft fturdy fervices. Our old hoftefs had 
 
 kindled
 
 74 LETTER XVI. 
 
 kindled a fire, and boiled our coffee by five 
 o'clock ; and notwithftanding the late hour 
 at which we entered, all were up and ac- 
 tive, and by fix o'clock we were feated in a 
 cabriolet, and took leave of this curious 
 company. 
 
 A great change of fcenery takes place as 
 you proceed to Rotterdam. The country 
 is ftill open, but lefs deformed with wild 
 waftes, or marmy grounds. The roads alfo 
 improve, and you have an agreeable variety 
 of villages and rivers. The Old Maefe, 
 which we firft paffed, exhibited a noble 
 view. This is navigable for veffels of 
 confiderable burden. Numbers of thefe were 
 lying in the river, and gave a very commer- 
 cial appearance to the country, Our route 
 after this lay through fome villages, whofe 
 extreme neatnefs attracted our particular 
 attention. Nothing can equal the purity 
 of thefe cottages. The exceffive labour they 
 beftow on every article of the moft minute 
 importance, leaves nothing to offend the 
 
 eye,
 
 LETTER XVI. ^ 
 
 eye, and gives the humbleft cot that air of 
 elegant fimplicity which palaces do not al- 
 ways poflefs. 
 
 Rotterdam is a fine object for many miles 
 before you reach it. The country is quite 
 open, and the road purfues a very ferpentine 
 courfe, which gives you fufficient time to 
 meditate on the fingular beauties of that ce- 
 lebrated city. Rotterdam will ftrike the 
 traveller with wonder ; perhaps no town in 
 Europe poflefles objects fo expreffive of 
 commercial importance. The canals are 
 numerous and large ; crouded with vefTels 
 in all parts, and covered with numerous 
 draw-bridges, they exhibit a magnificent 
 fcene. All thefe canals are bordered with 
 trees and promenades. Wherever the eye 
 turns, objects of commercial grandeur ftrike 
 it with aflonimment. The public buildings 
 are all confecrated to the fame purpofes. 
 The churches are heavy and taftelefs. There 
 are cabinets of paintings in the poffeffion of 
 foine private individuals ; but the only pub- 
 lic
 
 7 6 LETTER XVI. 
 
 lie monument of letters and the fine arts, is 
 a ftatue to the memory of Erafmus, who 
 was a native of this place, and among the 
 few luminaries of fcience which this coun- 
 try has produced. The artift has infpired 
 the countenance with wonderfully fine in- 
 telligence. 
 
 The different degrees of zeal with which 
 the memory of Erafmus was cheriilied, be- 
 fpoke in paft times a growing tafte for lite- 
 rature. The ftatue firft raifed in honour 
 of this great fcholar, A. D. 1540, was of 
 wood. Seventeen years refined their feel- 
 ings, and blufhing for the little refpecl they 
 had fhewn to the memory of the man who 
 had immortalized their city, the ftatue of 
 wood was exchanged for a ftatue of Jlone . 
 A fucceeding age, emulous of its predecef- 
 fors, gave to the Apotheofis of Erafmus the 
 laft touch, and raifed this ftatue of bronze. 
 Doubtlefs this ceconomical people had 
 at the firft well calculated the extent of the 
 future expenditure, if literary characters 
 
 fhould
 
 LETTER XVII. ?7 
 
 {hould abound in the republic ; but finding 
 this fwampy foil unpropitious to genius, 
 and productive only of 'dull commentators 
 and fombrous logicians, they converted the 
 image of wood into a flatue of fane, ^with- 
 out rifquing, in confequence of this prece- 
 dent, any material diminution of the public 
 revenue. In the fixty-five years which fuc- 
 ceeded, no rival Erafmufes yet appearing, the 
 utmoft extravagance of civic honours was 
 exhaufted upon him, and a ftatue of bronze 
 erected, all apprehenfion of future claim 
 being at length entirely diffipated. 
 
 LETTER XVII. 
 
 TT7 HAT Rome is to the antiquary, and 
 Florence to the connoifleur, that is 
 Rotterdam to the merchant. The manoeu- 
 vres of a Pruffian army are grand and ftrik- 
 ing ; but the ftrength there displayed excites 
 
 reflections,
 
 7S LETTER XVII. 
 
 reflections, at which the heart revolts. When 
 the olive is exchanged for the laurel* 
 though the eye may be dazzled with mili-* 
 tary fplendor, the heart fickens with grief. 
 Commerce is the only art of national ag- 
 grandizement which reafon fanclions, and 
 humanity approves. This increafes the 
 ftrength, and extends the limits of an em- 
 pire, without abridging the liberties, or fried- 
 ding the blood of mankind. 
 
 Regarded in this view Rotterdam claims 
 a diftinguifhed rank among the objects 
 of curiofity. Streets, markets, and quays, 
 are crouded with the fons of active in- 
 duftry. Every cofFee-houfe is a bourfe, and 
 all the fociety that is there cultivated, re- 
 fers to bargains, transfers, and contracts. 
 Here are no theatres, but warehoufesj 
 no routs, but on the Change ; no amufe- 
 ments, but counting of gains. They have 
 little deference for a ftranger, particularly if 
 he appears to take no intereft in their com- 
 mercial trunfa&ions. You may dine in 
 
 company
 
 LETTER XVH. 79 
 
 company with them, yet fcarcely obtain the 
 interchange of a minute's converfation : 
 this being with them ufually taken up by 
 topics of infinitely higher moment, than 
 thofe which the vague cutioflty of a tra- 
 veller would ftart. Their language, it muft 
 be 'owned, feems formed for them, arid they 
 for their language. Rude, harfti, and guttu- 
 ral it never was intended for the polite in- 
 tercourfe of fociety, nor the foft effufions of 
 an amorous paffion. But gallantry and 
 politenefs are playthings to tare and trett ; 
 and all the courtly graces of language are 
 baubles, compared with thofe finewy terms 
 that tie and untie with effect the knots of 
 trade. 
 
 We foon fatisfied ourfelves with the ra- 
 rities of Rotterdam, and as we did not enter 
 feelingly into the fublime fpeculations of 
 thefe, we could not help regretting the 
 dearth of public entertainments. The ob- 
 jects which ftruck us at firft, foon loft their 
 energy. Familiarized in a few hours to 
 
 their
 
 8o LETTER XVIII. 
 
 their canals and their warehoufes, we pant- 
 ed to find fome new fcene; and parting 
 from this mart of traffic, this depofitary 
 of commercial wealth, we entered a pafT- 
 age-boat at the clofe of the Saturday 
 evening, and made the beft of our way to 
 the Hague. 
 
 LETTER XVIII. 
 
 H E latenefs of the evening obliged us 
 to pafs between Rotterdam and the 
 Hague, more rapidly than we wimed. On 
 our way we fcarcely flopped at Delft, which 
 is a pretty town of no great extent, but dif- 
 tinguifhed by two churches, in one of 
 which is the monument raifed to the me- 
 mory of the famous Admiral Van Tromp. 
 The china manufacture has been long cele- 
 brated throughout Europe, and ftill preferves 
 its vigor and reputation. The town is 
 charmingly fituated, and the canal runs 
 by iL 
 
 We
 
 LETTER XVIII. 
 
 \Ve quitted the barge at Delft, and took 
 carriage, in order to reach the Hague before 
 the gates fliould (hut. Here a new fcene 
 opened upon us. The Hague exhibits a 
 finking contraft to Rotterdam. It is a 
 tow v n built in a ftile of uncommon elegance, 
 with all the air of fafhionable refidence. It 
 has not the buftle, the population, nor the 
 crouded objects of Rotterdam, yet it has 
 the afpect of cheerfulnefs, and combines the 
 vivacity of trade with the polifh of pleafure* 
 The promenade towards Scheveling is one 
 of the fineft things in Holland, and perhaps 
 in Europe. It extends more than two En- 
 glifh miles in length, and is kept in the 
 moft delightful order. The village at Sche- 
 veling, which terminates it, forms a very 
 agreeable boundary, and the ocean rifmg 
 above the land clofes the vifta, and gives 
 to the whole a wonderful fublimity. Sche- 
 veling is a fifhing town, and is fituated on 
 a fine fand the view of the fea from this 
 fand is beautiful and extenfive. As to the 
 VOL. i. Q gardens
 
 s* LETTER xvm. 
 
 gardens of Count Bentinck and other mat" 
 Jons de platfance^ they are certainly curiofi- 
 ties in Holland, where the moft uncouth 
 diftribution of grounds prevails, but merit 
 little the attention of an Englifh traveller, 
 who will have feen in his own country 
 more tafte difplayed in the green which 
 furrounds the cottage, than in the moft ad- 
 mired villas * of Holland. 
 
 When I remarked that the houfes were 
 built in a ftile of elegance and grandeur, I 
 did not mean to applaud the tafte of 
 the architects, as many of them wear a 
 heavy and fombrous afpect; but the ge- 
 neral effed is ftriking. The palace of 
 the Stadtholder is more celebrated for the 
 paintings and cabinets which adorn it with- 
 in, than the face it exhibits without. The 
 churches are fpacious, but not numerous : 
 the whole town poflefles but three; of 
 which one is the church of the reformed, 
 
 * Mr. Hope's manfion at Hacrlem is a known exception 
 to this general character; 
 
 the
 
 LETTER XVIII. 83 
 
 the fecond the Lutheran, and the third Ro- 
 miih. The firft is the handfomeft, and 
 was, at the time I faw it, filled with a fplen- 
 did audience. The preachers here preferve 
 thofe immenfe wigs, which in England or- 
 nament only the heads of the judges. Thus 
 accoutred, and with only a fmall bible be- 
 fore them, they wear a very oratorical ap- 
 pearance refort to an action by no means 
 ungraceful, and appear animated and ener- 
 getic. The ftill filence which prevailed 
 throughout the hallowed edifice, convinced 
 me that the impreflive ardor of the preacher 
 was not without its defired effect. 
 
 We were fortunate in being at the Hague 
 during the fair. This began on the Sunday 
 afternoon, agreeable to the practice in thefe 
 countries, which, if it does not enjoin 
 Sunday as the beginning, ufually includes 
 it within the number. This fair may pof- 
 fibly have given us a more cheerful idea of 
 this place, than it would ordinarily excite. 
 Theatres, reviews, public breakfafts, and every 
 o 2 fpecies
 
 84. LETTER XVIII. 
 
 fpecies of amufement, took place; all the 
 public roads were filled with carriages, 
 patting and repaying, and the ftreets were 
 crouded with puppet-fhews, mountebanks, 
 and wild beafts. What amufed me beyond 
 other novelties, was the fmgular drefs of 
 the Dutch girls. Any one would have ima- 
 gined, that the figures which Appeared on 
 thefe occafions were mafques, or defigned 
 as caricatures ; but: the numbers which 
 crouded all the public ways, and the win- 
 ning airs they affected, convinced me, that 
 nothing but my want of tafte refifted the 
 influence of fuch fmgular attractions. Ima- 
 gine a fhort figure, with more breadth than 
 goes to the proportion of elegance, and 
 with very little alteration in the width 
 downwards to the waift, the petticoats de- 
 fcending half way only below the knee. 
 Imagine further, a round face, ufually fmall, 
 covered with a hat of near three feet in 
 diameter, perfectly circular, and applied to 
 the head in a part contiguous to the ciiv 
 3 cumferencea
 
 LETTER XVIII. 85 
 
 cumference. You will readily perceive, 
 that the hat, thus difpofed, will project be- 
 fore the face, nearly the fpace of the whole 
 diameter, touching the head, agreeably to the 
 property of . fpheres, only in one point. 
 Now you have nothing to do but to con- 
 ceive a number of thefe figures in motion, 
 brandifhing their horizontal hats, rolling 
 their diminutive eyes, and affecting a thou- 
 fand ridiculous graces^ under cover of this 
 extenfive canopy. The tout enfemble brought 
 to my recollection thofe fculptural vagaries, 
 in which a human figure is often made the 
 prop of a cathedral feat, the fupport of a 
 wainfcot pulpit, or the (land of a mahogany 
 table. If you deem my obfervations fome- 
 what fatirical, I muft, in my own vindica- 
 tion, fay, that this is a country in which 
 few objects are to be foupd for panegyric or 
 applaufe. The fingularity of its fituation, 
 and the extent of its commerce, are almoft 
 the only topics on which curiofity would 
 dwell, without terminating in cenfure : and 
 G 3 our
 
 86 LETTER XIX. 
 
 our daily obfervation evinces, that a nation, 
 great in the arts of commerce, and poffefled 
 of all the refources of fplendor and affluence, 
 may yet be ignorant of the arts of refine- 
 ment, and yield to nations lefs important, 
 and lefs opulent, in the more fafcina- 
 ting attainments of elegance and good 
 tafte. 
 
 LETTER XIX. 
 
 *T* H E paflage by water from the Hague 
 to Amfterdam exhibits fome pleafant 
 fcenery, and the boats are under fo dextrous 
 management, that you never travel flower 
 than four miles an hour. They will pre- 
 tend to greater fpeed, but I never found the 
 motion exceed this. People are ufually 
 counfelled to engage the ruffle^ which is the 
 name diftinguifhing the beft cabbin ; and for 
 thofe who are averfe to mixing with a pro- 
 mifcuous fociety, and have a decided anti- 
 pathy to fmoke, it is certainly a very wife 
 
 precau-
 
 LETTER XIX, 87 
 
 precaution. Motives of curiofity always de- 
 termined us to prefer the oppofite meafure ; 
 and we had many opportunities, by this 
 means, of commenting upon the manners of 
 this fmgular people. 
 
 Every man who enters the boat, what- 
 ever v be his condition, either brings a pipe in 
 his mouth or his hand. A flight touch of 
 the hat, upon entering the cabbin, franks him 
 for the whole time of his flay ; and the laws 
 of etiquette allow him to fmoke in filerice to 
 the end of the paflage. We fee, as at a meet- 
 ing ofquakers, fixed features and change- 
 lefs poftures ; the whole vifage myfterious, 
 and folemn, but betraying, it muft be con- 
 fefTed, more of abfence than intelligence. 
 Hours will pafs, and no mouth expand, but 
 to whiff the fmoke ; nor any limb be put in 
 motion, except to rekindle the pipe. The 
 foutume of thofe focieties, in the liberal ufe of 
 the crachoir^ does not preferve that attention 
 to delicacy which fome conftitutions would 
 require. 
 
 04 On
 
 88 LETTER XIX. 
 
 On our way to Amfterdam we had an 
 opportunity of taking a tranfient view of 
 Leyden, and of Haerlem. The Dutch 
 towns have fo clofe a refemblance to each 
 other, in their canals, their bridges, and their 
 buildings, that a traveller's curiofity is foon 
 fatiated. The univerfity of Leyden owes its 
 celebrity more to the talents of its profeflbrs, 
 than the fplendor or magnitude of its edifices. 
 The oil painting by Jean de Leyde, is the 
 only attraction which the Hotel- de-Ville . 
 poffefles. Haerlem boafts Laurentius Gof- 
 ter, one of the inventors of printing, as a 
 native. The great church, and the fuperb 
 organ which it contains, are known 
 throughout Europe. 
 
 A fhort time fuffices to examine all the 
 objects of curiofity in thofe towns, which 
 are a perpetual repetition of the firft impref- 
 ilon; The banks of the canals are orna- 
 mented with various gardens and pleafure 
 grounds, which the mailers of the veflels 
 are induftrious to difplay. I fhall fufpend 
 
 my
 
 LETTER XIX. 89 
 
 my obfervations upon this clafs of curiofi- 
 ties till a future occafion. The firft coup- 
 d'ceil, as we approched Amfterdam, was fm- 
 gular. I counted between 70 and 80 wind- 
 mills, as we were coming down the canal. 
 A grander objecl foon prefented itfelf the 
 harbour crouded with veflels, and exhi- 
 biting all the apparatus of commercial opu- 
 lence. 
 
 We entered this city at the clofe of the 
 evening, and took up our quarters at 
 Young's Hotel, which is ufually efteemed 
 the beft, but for fituation and convenience 
 does little credit to a city of fuch magni- 
 tude. 
 
 I mall indulge you with the privilege 
 of recreating your fpirits, and recovering 
 from the ennui which this uriinterefting 
 recital muft have occafloned, before I ven- 
 ture my remarks upon Amfterdam. If the 
 paflage has appeared dull and heavy in the 
 relation, I affure you it was not lefs fo in the 
 
 performance, The equable motion of the 
 
 barge,
 
 $o L E T T E R XX. 
 
 barge, the uniform folemnity of our fociety, 
 and the unvaried face of the country, gave 
 birth to a fombrous depreffion, diffipated 
 only by the change of fcene, which took 
 place in the great and populous town of 
 Amfterdam. We quickly perceived, that 
 Amfterdam had few attractions for delicate 
 curiofity. Amufement, however, we could 
 not fail to derive from the novel fcenes it 
 inclofed, though they were ufually deform- 
 ed by fome offenfive appendages : fatisfac- 
 tion was, in moft inftances, lowered by dif- 
 guft, and one fenfe generally gratified at the 
 expence of anqther. 
 
 LETTER XX. 
 
 / TpHE city of Amfterdam is renowned 
 
 throughout Europe for its population, 
 
 its traffic, and its opulence. Nothing can 
 
 equal the grandeur of its port, which is 
 
 thronged
 
 L E T T E R XX. $ r 
 
 thronged with veflels of all magnitudes. 
 Wherever the eye ranges, mafts and fails 
 appear, covering the whole fphere of vifion, 
 and exhibiting the proud triumphs of com- 
 mercial enterprize. It is contended of this 
 harbour, that it wants depth ; and that veflels 
 of great burden, which enter the Texel, are 
 reduced to numerous inconveniences: yet 
 the toiling induftry, and the perfevering ta- 
 lents of this laborious people, have baffled all 
 the oppofition, and furmounted all the dif- 
 ficulties of nature and fituation. They have' 
 ftripped the furrounding nations of their re- 
 fources, and concentrated the rays of com- 
 merce in their own republic. Not content 
 with barricadoeing their realms againft the 
 rude affaults of Neptune, carrying off his 
 waves by artificial channels, and preferving, 
 by daily efforts, their empire from diluvian 
 deftru&ion they have fought a good be- 
 yond the narrow pittance which their chill 
 and cheerlefs foil produces, have emulated 
 the greateft powers in navigating the ccean, 
 8 and
 
 9 z L E T T E R XX. 
 
 and in importing from diftant parts of the 
 globe the luxuries of happier climes. 
 
 While I viewed this harbour, and rumi- 
 nated on the fucceffive advances of this 
 people to the higheft pinnacle of national 
 profperity *, I turned my eye to that city 
 which once difputed the palm of commerce 
 with this republic, and which, by the grow- 
 ing importance of this neighbouring power, 
 had been reduced to iniignificance. The 
 treaty of Weftphalia raifed the grandeur of 
 Holland upon the ruins of Antwerp. The 
 forts of Lillo and Liefenfhoek determined the 
 fate of that unfortunate city, and the antient 
 majefty of the Scheld now bows to the 
 ufurped authority and furtive honours of 
 the Texel. 
 
 The ardour, the activity, the croud, and the 
 buftle, which prevail in all quarters of the 
 
 * The trade of Amrtcrdam has of late years been very 
 much on the decline, and now confifts chiefly in the nego- 
 ciation of bills of exchange. The real imports and ex- 
 ports do not probably much exceed one half of what they 
 
 were fome years paft. 
 
 port,
 
 LETTER XX, 93 
 
 port, are inconceivable. Bells are founding, 
 and veflels parting, at all hours. Piles of 
 merchandize, and throngs of paflengers, fill 
 all the avenues. It appears the mart of 
 exhauftlefs plenty, and the grand depofitary 
 of Europe. The ftreets of Amfterdam are 
 narrow and filthy the whole city pierced 
 by an infinity of canals, which cut each 
 other in every poflible direction. The 
 Bourfe is convenient, and not inelegant. The 
 Maifon de Ville, or Stadthoufe, is fpacious 
 and magnificent encumbered neverthelefs 
 with fanciful ornaments, and ill-propor- 
 tioned in its feveral parts ; but the fcale on 
 which it is built is immenfe, and the gene- 
 ral effect ftupendous. The churches are 
 raifed after no very fuperior model, and can. 
 boaft of few attractive ornaments. I en- 
 tered three the fecond evening of our ftay, 
 where fervice was performed ; numerous con- 
 gregations hung attentive on the preacher's 
 accents, and zeal on the one part was return- 
 ed by corresponding emotion on the other. 
 
 It
 
 94 LETTER XX. 
 
 It requires no fmall perfeverance to 
 run over the objects moft deferring atten- 
 tion at Amfterdam. The uniformity of the 
 ftreets, and the uncleannefs incident to a 
 erouded population, offend the eye, while 
 the action of the fun upon the ftagnant 
 waters increafes in a high degree the dif- 
 ficulties of being pleafed. 
 
 Nothing can wear a more aukvvard ap- 
 pearance than the carriages, the bodies of 
 which are placed on low fledges, and drawn 
 by one horfe. The driver is on foot ; and 
 in addition to the concern of the horfe, he 
 is obliged to watch every movement of the 
 fledge, that the carriage may not be over- 
 fet. The origin of this cuftom is well 
 known to be founded in the apprehenfion 
 of danger to the houfes by the violence of 
 wheel-carriages, and all \hzfacres are there- 
 fore, by authority of the government, con- 
 ftructed upon fledges. Some few years 
 paft, no four-wheel carriages were to be 
 feen. Later refinements have at length in- 
 troduced
 
 L E T T E R XX. 9S 
 
 troduced them, and this inelegant and in- 
 expeditious mode of vifiting and airing 
 is abandoned to perfons, whofe fortune 
 or frugality admit not a more coftly equi- 
 page. 
 
 The bridge over the Amfiel isconfidered as 
 a choice morceau of antient architecture, and 
 is a great ornament to the river, which rolls 
 beneath its arches. 
 
 I faw nothing beyond thefe, which merits 
 a moment's difcuffion ; and I haften from, 
 thofe fcenes of uncleanly afped, this com- 
 pound of villanous fmells, as Falftaff would 
 call it, to one of the moft charming vifions 
 that ever feafted my eyes where all that 
 prefented itfelf gave birth to oppofite fenfa- 
 tions, and banifhed for a moment every ob- 
 noxious image this city had excited. But 
 I muft referve this account for a fubfequent 
 letter. Your nerves might furFer by too fud~ 
 den a tranfition, and fome interval may be 
 neceflary to purify the channel of thofe 
 ideas which have fo long dwelt upon pol- 
 luted
 
 96 LETTER XXL 
 
 luted objects. The fcenes to which I fhall 
 conduct you, will repay the penance of a 
 fhort delay. They are curious, on the fcore 
 of fingularity, if not upon the principle 
 of tafte. They boaft a neatnefs unexampled 
 in courts or palaces, and in a certain mode 
 of ornament have no parallel in Europe. 
 
 LETTER XXL 
 
 TN my laft I engaged to furnifh you with 
 a relation of a little excurfion made into 
 North Holland, for the purpofe of vifiting 
 the village of Broek. It was early in the 
 morning, that, curious to examine a place of 
 which report had fpoken fo loudly, we en- 
 tered a vefTel for Buyk-floodt. This paflage 
 took up an hour, and gave us a very grati-^ 
 fying view of the fcenes which moft adorn 
 Amfterdam. Parting from the port, we 
 turned our eyes to contemplate the mighty 
 
 mart 

 
 LETTER xxi. 97 
 
 mart of commerce we had quitted the ob- 
 jects were crouded, and the groupe fub- 
 lime. 
 
 The city appeared invefted with nume- 
 rous flotas, which reared their towering 
 mafts, Irke foreft-trees, into the air. All that 
 offends the eye, and deforms the afpect of 
 this celebrated city, was obfcured and con- 
 cealed by the more prominent objects which 
 ibrm its grandeur. The opening fcenes oT v 
 North Holland preferred a beautiful con- 
 traft to the country behind. All was foft, 
 ftill, and flourifhing the houfes exhibited 
 the appearance of eafe, affluence, and neat- 
 nefs: the lands, highly cultured, difplayed 
 the marks of laborious induftry, and grow- 
 ing fertility. 
 
 From Euykfloodt, which is charmingly, 
 fituated, at an equal diftafice from Amfter- 
 dam and Broek, we entered a fecond boat, 
 which was to convey us to the latter the 
 canal ran along a moil pleafmg country 
 the banks were occafionally crowned by 
 
 vol., I. H fome
 
 98 LETTER XXI. 
 
 fome neat villa of private refidence, or fome 
 beautiful rendezvous of public refort. 
 
 We were gradually prepared by the dif- 
 ferent cottages on the banks of this canal, 
 for the fcenes to which our ardent curiofity 
 tended. Broek at length caught our eye. 
 It is a village of no great extent, fituate on 
 the weftern fide of the canal, and forming 
 the moft ravifhing landfcape. As we eyed 
 it from the boat, it refembled a finifhed 
 picture, and appeared to exift only in ima- 
 gination, or upon canvas. We landed with 
 anxious curiofity, and purfued fome wind- 
 ing-paths, in order to examine, with more 
 minute attention, this enchanting vifion. 
 Tlaced within the bofom of thefe furround- 
 ing beauties, I fancied myfelf in that Ely- 
 lium, which poets have defcribed, where all 
 that meets the fenfes is creative of pleafur- 
 able tranquillity. The houfes were painted 
 with the moft vivid and varied colours. The 
 windows were tranfparent as chryftal ; and 
 the tiles which roofed thefe pure abodes, 
 jo adorned
 
 LETTER XXI. 99 
 
 adorned with varnifhed furfaces, reflected 
 a thoufand hues from the rays of a meri- 
 dian fun. The gardens were framed with' 
 fingular art and ingenuity, and were diftri- 
 buted into the mod fanciful divifions. 
 Each feveral department exhibited a groupe 
 of fantaftic forms. The fli-rubs, which had 
 fliot their roots deep into the foil, were 
 fculptured into all the forms of real and 
 imaginary nature. Birds, beafts, and rep- 
 tiles of every defcription, were here con- 
 gregated in peaceful union, as in the ark of 
 old : all wore the fame livery, and derived 
 their nutriment from the fame elements. 
 The church, however, was excepted from 
 the law of univerfal decoration. The only 
 ornaments of this facred building were 
 finimed fimplicity, and fpotlefs purity 
 happy emblems of thofe facrifices which 
 alone adorn the altar of religious adoration. 
 Wherever the eye could penetrate, or the 
 feet could ftray, throughout this fafcinating 
 village, all was completely correfpondent. 
 H 2 The
 
 ico LETTER XXL 
 
 The areas which furrounded the lioufes 
 the winding walks, alleys, and avenues^were 
 equally correct. 
 
 Nor is it alone exterior elegance to which 
 thefe people afpire the infides of many 
 houfes are richly decorated, and rinifhed 
 with the moftcoftly ornaments. We obtained 
 admittance into one, and were aftonifhed at 
 the polifhed furfaces which erery article of 
 the moft minute defcription pofleffed. One 
 apartment, which we entered, was paved 
 with fmall fquare tiles, put together with- 
 out any cement, and prefenting the mofl 
 pleafmg afpect. The furniture of a cham- 
 ber in the fame houfe was very fumptuous, 
 eompofed of filken ornaments, richly em- 
 broidered. This is, agreeably to antient 
 prefcription, bequeathed from father to fon, 
 and preferved as an offering to Hymen 
 fuch is the cuftom of thefe Arcadian vil- 
 lagersfrom generation togeneration. There 
 is alfo a praclice prevailing here, common, 
 I believe, to all the natives of North Hol- 
 land;
 
 LETTER XXI. 101 
 
 land : To every houfe, of whatever quality, 
 there is an artificial door, elevated near 
 three feet above the level of the ground, 
 and never opened but upon two occafions. 
 When any part of the family marries, the 
 bride and bridegroom enter the houfe by 
 this door ; and when either of the parties 
 die, the corpfe is carried out by the fame 
 door. Immediately after the due ceremo- 
 nies are performed in- either of thofe cafes, 
 this door is fattened up, never to turn on 
 its hinges again, till feme new event of a 
 fimilar nature demand its fervices. The ex- 
 traordinary neatnefs which prevails through- 
 out the whole is a prodigy. 
 
 On a vifit which the late Emperor Jofeph 
 made to this village, he is faid to have ex- 
 perienced the rigour of thofe injundions, 
 which are laid upon all who view the 
 Orphan Houfe ; and before he was ad- 
 mitted to tread the facred floor, he conform- 
 ed to the ceremony of taking off his fhoes. 
 That care and attention may preferve the 
 H 3 feveral
 
 102 LETTER XXI. 
 
 feveral apartments in a ftate of internal 
 neatnefs, is readily conceivable ; but that 
 the outfides of their houfes, roofs, and 
 fronts/ their gravelled grounds, and open 
 paths, fhould exhibit no marks of occafional 
 violence, mould betray no fymptoms injuri- 
 ous to their lyftematic correlnefs, is a 
 myftery for which I cannot account. The 
 natural action of the elements the blow- 
 ing ftorm, and the driving mower, might 
 well be deemed, too ftrong opponents of art 
 and nature : yet, expofed to all the vicif- 
 fitudes of the feafons, not a veflige of injury 
 could be traced. How patient muft be that 
 affiduity, which watches thofe accidents, 
 which imperceptibly repairs their ravages, 
 and gives' to thofe unexampled -produc- 
 tions of induftry, uniformity and perma- 
 nence. 
 
 I quitted this fmgular fpot with re- 
 ludance. As the barge moved flowly along, 
 my eyes feafled upon the parting fairy 
 landfcape. I could not govern my fenfa- 
 
 tions.
 
 LETTER XXI F. 103 
 
 tions. Did ever poet image aught fo fair? 
 
 Dreaming in whifpering grove?, by the hoarfe brook, 
 Or prophet, to whcfe vifion heaven defcends! 
 
 The picture gradually difappeared, as the 
 colours faded, and was at length ravilh- 
 ed from my fight. The vulgar fcenes 
 of Amfterdam reduced my ideas to a lefs 
 rapturous ftandard. Were I to meafure 
 exiflence with the antediluvian antients, I 
 fhould never be able to erafe thofe fcenes 
 from my mind, nor entirely convince my- 
 felf, that the whole was not a delightful illu- 
 fion of the fancy. 
 
 LETTER XXII. 
 
 T WAS fo extremely delighted with the 
 
 little I faw of North Holland, that I 
 
 could, with great pleafure, have penetrated 
 
 farther; but our time did not admit of any 
 
 extenfion of the tour. At a very fhort dif- 
 
 H 4 tance
 
 104 LETTER XXH. 
 
 tance from Broek lies Saardam, a village in 
 many refpeds fimilar to that we vifited, but 
 more particularly celebrated for the tem- 
 porary refidence of the Czar Peter the 
 Great, who fpent a confiderable time here ; 
 and Peterfioff, or Peter's houfe, is fhewn to 
 the prefent day. We contented ourfelves 
 with viewing it as we pafled, and quitted 
 Amfterdam the following day. We con- 
 tinued to travel by water, and the paflage 
 between Amfterdam and Utrecht difplaycd 
 a greater variety of fcenery, than we had 
 yet met with in any part of Holland. The 
 country wore a more fertile afpect, and the 
 banks of the canal were covered with gar- 
 dens. 
 
 Utrecht is built very much upon the mo- 
 del of the towns we had before feen. Its 
 public buildings poflefs no particular beauty. 
 Its univerfity owes none of its celebrity to 
 the magnificence of its ftructures. The 
 great tower of St. Martin is indeed a very 
 noble remnant of antient art. The view 
 
 from
 
 BETTER XXII. ,05 
 
 from the fummit of this tower is very ex- 
 tenfive. Near twenty cities may be difco- 
 vered by the eye, within a very bounded 
 fpace. I afcended the tower with great 
 eagernefs, and was impatient to reach the 
 point of obfervation. But, when arrived at 
 a certain height I took a furvey of the 
 country my fituation was not perfectly to 
 my fatisfaction : the ftone, mouldered by 
 the ringer of time, and apparently loofened 
 by decay, wore a tremendous afpect. Hav- 
 ing climbed within a few paces of the fum- 
 mit, I defcended, with a fober determination 
 to take in future my views from fome lefs 
 afpiring eminence, where, if I faw objects 
 to lefs advantage, I fhould alfo fee them 
 with lefs trepidation. I took little pains to 
 examine the town. It wore a very dull 
 appearance, and was animated only by the 
 images it revived, of its political importance. 
 This city was diftinguiihed in 1572, for 
 the union of the provinces, which was there 
 formed. And the celebrated Congrefs of 
 
 1712,
 
 jc6 LETTER XXII. 
 
 1712, has interwoven the name of Utrecht, 
 with the hiftory of the greateft ftates in 
 Europe. Duclos's Hiftorical Records of 
 thofe Times, have fome particulars of a very 
 interefting nature, refpecting the conduct 
 of the Dutch in this Congrefs. One anecr 
 dote related by him, I will tranfcribe. Vil- 
 lars, you recoiled, had gained an important 
 victory over the allies at Denain. The 
 Dutch minifters ftill however prefumed, 
 notwithftanding this difafter, and the ar- 
 miftice concluded between England and 
 France, to talk in a ftyle of great haughti- 
 nefs, But the Cardinal de Polignac arofe 
 and filenced them, by declaring in a firm 
 and decifive manner, that the period for 
 haughty and imperious language was paft. 
 " Meflrs." faid he, " les circonftances 
 " font changees il faut changer di ton. 
 u Nous traiterons chez vous, de vous, & 
 " fans vous/* 
 
 From Utrecht we took cabriolets for Bois- 
 le-duc, or, as the Dutch call it, Hertzogen- 
 
 bofche.
 
 LETTER XXII. 107 
 
 bofche. This occupied a night, and. part of 
 the following day. The route we purfued 
 is not very frequently travelled. It gave us 
 however an opportunity of feeing another 
 part of the country. It was between ten 
 and eleven o'clock when we reached the 
 banks of the JLeck, and the latenefs of the 
 hour was pleaded as an excufe for not paf- 
 fing the river ; fo we flept in our clothes till 
 morning, and pafTed the river at fun-rife. 
 We then proceeded to Bommel, crofling 
 that arm of the Rhine which bears the 
 name of the Waal. 
 
 From Bommel to Bois-le-duc, we had to 
 encounter a road worfe than any yet feen, 
 and which admonimed us momentarily to 
 prepare for the chance of an overthrow. 
 The country around was wretched, barren, 
 and fwampy. After crofling the Maefe, we 
 arrived fafe in the middle of the day at 
 Bois-le-duc, where the carnage waited for 
 us. It had been our plan, previous to com- 
 mencing the expedition, to take this courfc, 
 
 and
 
 ic8 LETTER XXII. 
 
 and iffue by Bois-le-duc, which formed a 
 more extenfive tour than is ufually made. 
 The cufiomary track is to quit Holland by 
 way of Gorcum and Breda, on which fide 
 the country is more fertile," and the roads 
 infinitely better, than by the route we took ; 
 and I know of no advantages which can be 
 mentioned, to counterbalance thofe incon- 
 veniences, except that of traverfing more 
 extenfively the country, and making our- 
 felves acquainted with fome of its worft 
 parts. 
 
 Bois-le-duc had nothing to attract us ; 
 but for the purpofes of refrefliment, we de- 
 termined to continue there the day. We 
 had travelled very hard for a week pall, 
 and had feldom refted night or day. The 
 inn at which we were lodged, offered us 
 comfortable quarters, had we refolved to 
 fpend a longer time ; but, impatient to enter 
 upon the preffing parts of our tour, we 
 fettled every preliminary for our journey to 
 Maeftricht, and held ourfelves in reaciinefs 
 for an early departure.
 
 E IC 9 
 
 LETTER XXIII. 
 
 E DutcTi are univerfally celebrated for 
 their attention to cleanlineis ; and ar- 
 tifice is not more proverbial of this nation, 
 than neatnefs. I have before remarked, 
 how well this obiervation is founded with 
 refpect to the villages: here, indeed, it pre- 
 vails in every pofTible fhape, and pervades 
 all ranks. No labour is fpared to give or- 
 naments and luftre to the meaneft cottage, 
 nor is it in the power of the painter to do 
 more than juftice to thofe polifhed fcenes. 
 But this extraordinary attention to neatnefs 
 has a nearer connection with neceflity than 
 choice. The moift exhalations which arife 
 from the fwampy foil they inhabit, would 
 be an over- match for inferior induftry ; 
 and without thofe repeated exertions, their 
 health and their property muft be defolated 
 
 by
 
 no LETTER XXIII. 
 
 by their invariable foes, Damp and Mildew. 
 What was firft their irkfome duty, is now 
 become their pleafure and their pride. 
 
 In many houfes the baft chambers are 
 kept conftantly clofed. Suites of apart- 
 ments are in many inftances referved for 
 the fingle purpofe of oftentatioiis neatnefs, 
 while the rich pofleflTor himfelf inhabits a 
 garret, or a cellar. A Dutchman is not re- 
 markable for perfonal cleanlinefs, and the 
 crachoir, of which they make fo general a 
 ufe, demonftrates that they have at leaft a 
 fet of feelings not ftrictly in unifon with 
 delicacy. 
 
 It is univerfally remarked ( of this people, 
 that they are knavifh and extortionate 
 their trading avarice would feem to render 
 this charge not wholly undeferving of cre- 
 dit. The extreme paffion for wealth which 
 actuates them, and the credit attached to 
 extended poflefiions, are not very favour- 
 able to the cultivation of uncorrupt inte- 
 grity. The mind abforbed in the adoration 
 
 of
 
 LETTER XXIII. m 
 
 offuch an idol, is often found flipping: the 
 darling purfuit will not fufFer check from 
 flight obftacles, and the progrefs from one 
 ftage of avarice to another, is imperceptibly 
 rapid. The tender feelings of honour and 
 honefty once repulfed, become lefs obtrufive 
 in their monitions, till at length the moft 
 erTential principles of morality are regarded 
 as madowy diftinetions. 
 
 That fuch reafonings are ftridly applica- 
 ble to the Hollanders, I mall neither pre- 
 tend to affirm or deny. Such is at leaft 
 the turn of general opinion ; but I think, 
 however, that juftice has not always been 
 done to thofe laborious people. The character 
 they may have merited in the great towns, 
 and the moft notorious places of refort, is 
 ill-applied to the hardy inhabitants of the 
 humble cot : and a numerous clafs undoubt- 
 edly exifts, who, fecluded from the crouded 
 mart, have not yet become tinctured with 
 the national foible. Were I to pronounce 
 upon thefe, agreeably to the experience I have 
 
 had
 
 H2 LETTER XXIIL 
 
 had of fome, and the obfervation I made 
 upon Others, I fliould rank them with the 
 more meritorious part of mankind, over 
 whom honefty, virtue, and content j maintain 
 an equal influence. There was an expref- 
 fion in the countenance of thofe toiling vil* 
 lagers, which difarmed fear in the moft pe- 
 rilous fituation. 
 
 When we entered the dark abode, after 
 croffing the Biefboch, and found ourfelves 
 furrounded with men whofe language we 
 could not fpeak the folitary and defert 
 fituation infpired alarm ; but a few mo- 
 ments interview with thofe uncouth cot- . 
 tagers difcovered how groundlefs had been 
 fuch terrors. The language of nature fpake 
 in their looks the integrity of their hearts, 
 and we pafled the evening with lefs depend- 
 ence upon the arms we carried, than the un- 
 fufpicious honefty we found. The little apart- 
 ment which, we occupied, exhibited a cir- 
 cumftance rarely found in houfes appro- 
 priated to the purpofes of a cabaret. In 
 
 one
 
 LETTER XXIII. 113 
 
 One corner of the chamber was a book, ap- 
 parently deftined for general ufe. One of 
 our guides had taken up the volume, and 
 was occupied great part of the night in 
 ftudying its contents. Curious to know the 
 object of his amufement, I intreated his per- 
 miffion to view the book, and found that the 
 lad was regaling himfelf with fcripture hif- 
 tory, and though nearly exhaufted with the 
 fatigues of the voyage, he fpent great part 
 of the night in reading the Bible* 
 
 Our paflage between Leyden and Haer- 
 lem gave me an opportunity of remarking 
 another circumftance of fimilar report to 
 their religious character. The mafter of the 
 veflel had prepared his dinner, which con- 
 fifted of fome potatoes, boiled to a powder 
 over the little fire-pan which kindled the 
 pipes. He had placed his little difh upon 
 a bench when, taking up his hat, he held 
 it before his eyes for fome moments ; and 
 having Confecrated by this act of devotion 
 the provifion before him, he devoured it 
 
 VOL. I. I without
 
 ii 4 'LETTER XXIII. 
 
 without apprehenfion or delay. I obferved 
 his partner, who fucceeded him, perform the 
 fame facred rite upon beginning his fimple 
 meal. 
 
 Thofe circumftances made me decide, that 
 great refpecT: was paid to religious obliga- 
 tions, fmce the prefence of ftrangers did not 
 interrupt the order of duty. An equal cu- 
 riofity induced me to take up a book which 
 lay open upon a table at the cabaret on the 
 banks of the Maefe, of which I confefs I 
 could hot report fo : favourably. The ba- 
 lance, however, yet ftands on the better 
 'fide ; and if I were to draw any conclu- 
 fions from my own obfervations in relation 
 to religion and morals, it would certainly 
 contain an encomium upon their virtue, 
 ivhich I am willing to believe the Hol- 
 Janders deferve in a higher degree than is 
 confiftent with general opinion.
 
 t '15 
 
 LETTER XXIV. 
 
 If KNOW not any thing which ftrikes a 
 traveller more, in entering upon Holland j 
 than the nature and general face of the 
 country, prefled by the rifing ocean j whofe 
 mighty waves are elevated beyond the level 
 of the land. It appears the country of art, 
 wreitecl by the induftry of its natives from, 
 the realms of Neptune, and guarded by eter- 
 nal toils againft his irruptions. Nothing 
 can equal the impfefliort excited by a view 
 of the diftant waveSj whofe fwelling furges 
 feem ready tb fwallow Up lands, cities, and 
 hamlets, in primaeval ruin. Goldfmith's ac- 
 curate picture of this country recurred to 
 my memory, as I meditated upon its mira- 
 culous exiftence : 
 
 To men of other minds my fancy flies, 
 Embbfom'd in the deep, where Holland lies : 
 Methinks her patient fons before me (land, 
 Where the broad ocean leans againft the land, 
 
 t ^ And
 
 ii6 LETTER XXIV* 
 
 And fedulous to (lop the coming tide, 
 Lift the tall rampire's artificial pride ; 
 Onward, methink.-, and diligently flow, 
 The firm compacted bulwark feems to grow, 
 Spreads its long arms amidft the watery roar y 
 Scoops out an empire, and ufurps the fhore : 
 While the pent ocean, rifing o'er the pile, 
 Sees an amphibious world beneath him (mile, 
 The flow canal, the yellow-bloflbm'd vale, 
 The willow tufted bank, the gliding fail, 
 The crouded mart, the cultivated plain, 
 A new creation refcued from his reign. 
 
 It will naturally be imagined, that a coun- 
 try under fuch circumftances, can boafi; 
 little beauty. Flat, fwampy, and open, it 
 exhibits no variety to the eye the foil ap- 
 pears coarfe, the profpects dreary, and the 
 atmofphere chilled, and impregnated with 
 conftant exhalations. 
 
 But if no pleafmg varieties exift in the 
 general afpecl: of the country, a ftill greater 
 uniformity appears in the bed and raofl po- 
 pulous towns. Divided and fub-divided by 
 an equal multiplicity of canals pierced by 
 ftreets, and crouded by buildings in the 
 fame mercantile (tile of taftelefs grandeur, 
 
 they
 
 LETTER XXIV. n; 
 
 they afford only a perpetual repetition of 
 the fame impreflion. The water, which 
 ufually contributes to variety, here adds to 
 the uniformity, and is indeed its grand 
 fource, conducted, as it invariably is, in 
 thofe channels which beft fuit the purpofes 
 of commodious navigation. The gardens 
 are only fo far eftimable, as they exhibit at 
 one period of the year a fhow of beautiful 
 flowers, and ferve to convince the traveller 
 that vegetation attually exifis, amidft the 
 profufion of water, which overfpreads the 
 face of the country. In all other refpecls, 
 the Dutch gardens are proverbially at vari- 
 ance with every principle of tafte arid ele- 
 gance. 
 
 I dwelt with rapture on thofe which or- 
 namented the village of Broek, becaufe they 
 pretended to no magnitude or ftile. They 
 were confident with every other part of the 
 fyftem, and contributed efientially to the 
 decoration of that artificial fcene. They 
 had a merit in that fituation, which they 
 j 3 would
 
 ii8 LETTER XXIV. 
 
 would have wanted in another, where 
 any thing beyond neatnefs and Angularity 
 were attempted. But to examine thofe 
 mangled grounds which cover the banks of 
 their canals, and which are denominated 
 gardens, is only to fee how far depraved 
 tafte can extend. Nature is, in thofe re- 
 gions, wholly out of repute. From fome fe- 
 cret fufpicions of her awkwardnefs, they im- 
 pofe a code of vegetative laws, agreeably to. 
 which it fhould feem {he mujl aft, and con- 
 demn all deviations from it as inelegant 
 luxuriances. Hence the pruning knives, 
 and a thoufand inftruments, are perpetually 
 in hand to keep her in order. They think 
 that trees ought to grow like animals- like 
 door-pofts like walls or in fhort like any 
 thing but what they were intended for. 
 Hence you fee what thefe people call a 
 garden, is often a range of parapets, a firing 
 pf alleys, or a very menagerie. They feem to 
 have found out the art of effecting what 
 the elder fages thought impracticable, and 
 j weakened
 
 LETTER XXIV. n ? 
 
 weakened my faith in that maxim of Ho- 
 race, which I before deemed univerfal : 
 
 " Naturam expellas furca, tamen ufquerecurret." 
 
 A more complete victory of art over na- 
 ture never exifted. Proftrate, enchained, 
 expiring, the latter feems now to fubmit 
 without a ftruggle to the tyranny of the for- 
 mer, refolving to wage no longer a war 
 upon fuch unequal terms. Moft of the 
 gardens, I faw, led to thofe reflections : they 
 were adorned with the trophies of victori- 
 ous art. Shaped into the fantaftic forms of 
 dragons, griffins, or dolphins the defpair- 
 ing fhrubs feemed to meditate no further 
 irregularities, but conformed their vigorous 
 {hoots to thofe arbitrary laws by which 
 they had been difciplined. A garden a 
 TAnglo'ife^ is not without its imitators in 
 Holland, yet almoft the whole country is 
 ftill over-run with thofe Gothic devices. 
 They are ftill held in fecret refpect, and 
 cultivated with unwearied attention. They 
 I 4 are
 
 120 LETTER XXIV. 
 
 are efteemed the precious monuments of 
 anthnt art the invaluable bequefts of their 
 induftrious anceftors, and the chief orna- 
 ments of their country. 
 
 There is certainly a confiftency in this 
 predilection : it is very much in character 
 with the air, the drefs, and the habits of 
 life, which thofe people cultivate in them- 
 felves. Moulded perfonally on no principle 
 of elegance, they borrow no improvements 
 from their drefles, which are equally at war 
 with convenience and beauty. Nature feems 
 to have hewn them with a rough chifel, 
 and formed them upon a plan of bufmefs. 
 All their purfuits bear reference to the fame 
 principle : tafte is intjuftripufly excluded 
 from all their defigns, to whatever they ap- 
 ply ; and their buildings and gardens are 
 not more grotefque and uncouth, than their 
 habits and manners. Any man, however, 
 who fees the intenfenefs with which they 
 purfue their plans of traffic, will ceafe to 
 wonder that fo wealthy a nation ihould yet 
 
 be
 
 LETTER XXIV. I2 i 
 
 be fo far removed from refinement. The 
 elegancies of life have fcarcely a name in 
 their vernacular tongue : the vortex of trade 
 ingulphs all confiderations ; and wealth is 
 fufficiently refpectable, to atone for the ab- 
 ience of every other quality. Thefe maxims, 
 \vhich are here reverenced by all ranks, are 
 fufficient to preclude the introduction of 
 thofe improvements which adorn fociety, 
 and give a luftre to ftates. It would indeed 
 be a novel event in the hiftory of mankind, if 
 any thing great in arts or refinements fhould 
 arife from, a nation, whofe fole talent is 
 mduftry, and whofe ruling paflion is the 
 love of gain.
 
 LETTER XXV. 
 
 E kings of Spain, from the time they 
 became ma.fters of the mines of Mexi- 
 co and Peru, have been confidered as the 
 cafhiers of Europe ; and it was well faid by 
 Boccalini, that Spain is to Europe, what the 
 mouth is to the body, " tout y pafie, et rien 
 n'y refte." However Holland may (land 
 in the fame predicament in one refpecl:, it 
 certainly differs very widely in the other, 
 The Dutch are at this moment the cafhiers 
 of Europe, and the bankers of every ftate ; 
 but with a policy peculiar to themfelves, 
 they convert the weakneffes of other na- 
 tions, into the inftruments of their own ag- 
 grandizement. Their fpeculations are ufu- 
 ally formed upon folid principles ; and 
 though they appear to hazard much, they 
 feldom fuftain lofs. So completely are they 
 
 occupied
 
 LETTER XXV. ,23 
 
 occupied by the predominant concerns of 
 negotiation, that they appear indifferent 
 about their governmeut. Naturally they 
 are bold, fteady, and enamoured of liberty, 
 Europe has witnefled their courage when, 
 provoked. Few nations have entered the 
 Jifts of war with more reluctance, or quitted 
 them with more renown. A flight injury 
 will not aroufe, nor a flight revenge appeafe 
 them. Inveigled into treaties by hope or 
 fear, never by choice, they ufually relieve 
 themfelves from fuch obligations. They 
 hold them no farther binding, than their in- 
 tereft dictates, and never fcruple to traffic 
 with the declared enemies of their allies 
 provided it can be done with fecrecy and 
 fafety. Confidering themfelves rather in 
 the capacity of a commercial aflbciation, 
 than a ftate of Europe, they regard the ca- 
 bals of cabinets, and the revolutions of em-: 
 pires, with political indifference. Unambir 
 tious of thofe laurels for which monarchy 
 too often interrupt the peace of mankind, 
 
 they
 
 124. LETTER XXV. 
 
 -V 
 
 they calmly cultivate the arts of indufhy, 
 and ftudy to fill their coffers ; while king- 
 doms, inflamed by trivial animofities, are 
 exhaufting their treafures to equalize do- 
 minion, and preferve the balance of power. 
 The fame phlegmatic inattention is appa- 
 rent to the political movements which take 
 place in the bofom of their own country. 
 Gonftitutionally averfe to monarchical au- 
 thority, and inheriting from their anceftors 
 a rooted attachment to republican govern- 
 ment, they yet fubmit to forms which fha- 
 dow fortn a fubjecYion that their forefa- 
 thers had blufhed to acknowledge. We 
 were under the neceffity of wearing the 
 orange cockade, throughout every part of 
 Holland. All ranks of people continue to 
 wear this badge of princely authority. For- 
 merly it marked the diftinclion of parties 
 at prefent it covers thofe divifions, famili- 
 arizes thefe tame defcendants of a hardy race 
 to a yoke at which they fecretly revolt, and 
 tends to eftablifh the authority of a power 
 8 whole
 
 LETTER XXV. 125 
 
 "vvhofe exiftence at one moment appeared 
 equivocal. 
 
 The reafonings which determine the 
 Hollanders to fuch paffive meafures, are not 
 founded on the extinction of antient pre- 
 judices, or the forfeiture of original fpirit; 
 but the inconveniences which would refult 
 to trade from an oppofition to the victori- 
 ous power. The grand wheels and fprings 
 muft be for a period neglected revolutions 
 would generate confufion, and arrefl for a 
 time the tide of commerce : nor can plans 
 of revolt be fuccefsfully fupported, without 
 great expence of time, labour, and manu- 
 factures. 
 
 It is evident, that confiderations of this 
 nature muft influence the Dutch to their 
 prefent conduct, as they are by no means 
 reconciled to the authority of the Stadt- 
 holder. Perfonal fafety was pleaded as the 
 reafon for affuming thus univerfally this 
 badge of fervitude,* yet difcontents are nu- 
 merous, and the throne of the Stadtholder 
 
 appears
 
 126 LETTER XXV. 
 
 appears but ill-fecured. The government 
 which exifts at this moment is certainly ill- 
 fuited to the temper and genius of a people 
 whofe reigning prejudice is an averfion to 
 princes. It is a government, whofe parts 
 do not well aflimilate, and which never 
 have accorded. The fuperaddition of an 
 hereditary Prince to the pre-eftablifhed au- 
 thority of the ftate, has counteracted their 
 antient labours has deftroyed the unifor- 
 mity, the purity, the correctnefs of their re- 
 public, and opened a channel for political 
 Interference from the Powers of Europe. 
 Louis the XIV. and XV. by turns, gave 
 them a Stadtholder ; and the late commo- 
 tions, which fhook the Houfe of Orange* 
 were not viewed with political indifference 
 by the Powers of Europe. 
 
 What will be the iffue of thofe difcon- 
 tents, which, through quelled, are not com- 
 pofed, time can alone decide ; but certain it is, 
 that the temper of the Hollander is not the 
 in oft placable, nor the raoft difpofed to forgive- 
 
 ne/s-
 
 LETTER XXV. 127 
 
 nefs. Princes are, in general, obnoxious to 
 this people, who acknowledge no diftinc- 
 tions but thofe of property ; and if a Hol- 
 lander has ever imagined the reigning Prince 
 tinctured with principles of tyranny if he 
 has at any period detected him in defigns to 
 aggrandize his own authority, and contract 
 the public liberties, he will ever regard him 
 with fufpicion, and no after-acts can purge 
 the memory of this delinquency. 
 
 Louis XV. experienced in this ftubbom 
 people, the lafting- effects of firft impre- 
 fions. Mafter of Flanders, and in poflefTion 
 of 35,000 Dutch prifoners, he prefied them 
 to accept a peace, which their fituation 
 would have rendered a more proper requeft 
 on their part ; but they obftinately refufed 
 to attend to his offers. Imprefled with the 
 hauteur of Louis XIV. in 1672, they could 
 not confider a fucceflbr of the fame name^ as 
 diverted of the fame qualities. Deeming 
 that what a prince could offer, a republic 
 ihould not accept, they viewed with a fti- 
 
 fpicious
 
 ii8 LETTER XXV. 
 
 fpicious eye all his overtures referring his 
 moft fpecious declarations to artifice or ne*- 
 ceffity, and deeming every effort to effect a 
 conciliation, a fymptom of weaknefs, or a 
 fnare for their feduction. 
 
 Voltaire has remarked this conduct in 
 the Dutch with his ufual animation : c< L'ir- 
 " ruption de Louis XIV. & 1'annee 
 " 1672, etoient encore dans leurs cceurs, 
 " etj'ofe dire que je me fuis apperfu plus 
 " d'une fois que leur efprit frappe de la 
 " hauteur de Louis XIV. ne pouvant coucc- 
 " voir la moderation de Louis XV. ils ne 
 " la crurent jamais fmcere. On regardoit 
 <6 toutes fes demarches pacifiques, et tous fes 
 " menagemens, tantot comme des preuves 
 " de faiblefTe, tantot commes d^s pieges."
 
 t 1*9 
 
 LETTER XXVI. 
 
 / ~T~Mi E journey from Bois-le-duc to Maef- 
 tricht was very laborious for the horfes, 
 and very irkfome to ourfelves. The road 
 continued to exhibit numberlefs difficulties ; 
 it was almoft the whole way compofed of a 
 fandy foil, ploughed into deep and danger- 
 ous furrows ; and we had the mortification 
 to be dragged for two days, at a foot pace, 
 over a country which wore the moft defo- 
 late afpect. The only objects which rofe 
 out of this barren foil were fome fcattered 
 gibbets, which well aflbrted with the mur- 
 derous face of the country. 
 
 Our firft night was, however, parTed at a 
 very pretty village, whofe name was fo 
 guttural, that I could not divine how many 
 confonants went to the formation of it ; for 1 
 you know, both in Dutch and Flemifli lore, 
 a few vowels go a great way. I muft 
 content myfelf, therefore, with telling you, 
 
 VOL. I. K that 

 
 i 3 o LETTER XXVI. 
 
 that it was about halfway between Bois-le- 
 duc and Maeftricht was furrounded in its 
 immediate precincts by fome charming vil- 
 lage fcenery, and wore a very pidurefque 
 appearance : and this will, I hope, compen- 
 fate for the omiffion of a hoarfe name, 
 " quod verfu dicere non eft.'* 
 
 Our fecond day's journey was equally 
 forlorn, and equally difgufting, till our eyes 
 caught the banks of the Meufe, and the 
 lofty bulwarks of Maeftricht. It was fair- 
 time when we entered it. All were dreffed 
 in their holiday attire the ftreets were 
 crowded with old and young, and the air 
 was filled with the founds of mirth, inter- 
 rupted by the diflbnant braying of trumpets. 
 We faw nothing in Maeftricht beyond the 
 ordinary run of towns. Its fortifications 
 are, indeed, pofTefled of immenfe ftrength, 
 and exhibit an impregnable fyftem of de- 
 fence. There is a cave into which the curi- 
 ous fometimes venture; but the circum- 
 flances accompanying it did not induce us to 
 add to that number. 
 
 Our
 
 LETTER XXVI. 131 
 
 Our next day was taken up in the journey 
 from Maeftricht to Spa, which gave us an 
 opportunity of feeing Liege. I have before 
 remarked, that Amfterdam was the moft 
 uncleanly town I ever faw. I fhall now 
 except Liege. I never could have imagined 
 a town in fuch a fituation deformed by fo 
 much filth; The ftreets were paved, the 
 buildings faced, and the houfes lined with 
 dirt of the blackeft colouring. In" addition" 
 to this, the whole town was in uproar; 
 Huflars, with naked fabres, were Rationed 
 at regular intervals throughout every ave- 
 nue of the town ; and the favage counte- 
 nances of thefe rude barbarians, were to be 
 encountered at every ftep. The cathedral 
 is noble, the bourfe fpacious and commodi- 
 ous. We were not a little rejoiced to quit 
 this town in the afternoon, and I think we 
 left behind us the aggregate of every thing 
 that is dark, tremendous, and offenfive. 
 
 Our route then lay upon a good pavee y 
 
 with no inconfiderable hills, to Spa, and we 
 
 entered this fingular place in the dufk of 
 
 K 2 * the
 
 , 3 2 LETTER XXVL 
 
 the evening. The great charm of Spa con- 
 fifts in the blended fociety, which is there 
 found from various motives. The country 
 is romantic, and the promenades pleafant. 
 The places of ufual refidence are embofom- 
 ed by hills of no great magnitude, but 
 whofe relative fituation to the town gives a 
 pidurefque air to the fpot. The falubrity of 
 the fprings firft formed the importance of 
 this place : but as mankind are oftener af- 
 flicted with imaginary than real complaints, 
 as the diforders of the fpirits are more nume- 
 rous than the maladies of the body, Spa is 
 lefs in repute for its medicinal noftrums 
 than its more potent attractions the ball- 
 rooms, the concerts, and the galas. 
 
 If one may judge from the exorbitant 
 charges here made, health is not purchafed 
 upon moderate terms; and though the 
 fprings gufh unbribed from the foil, their 
 waters do not continue to flow with equal 
 liberality. A Spa refidence, of the (hortefc 
 duration, is not made without confiderable 
 expence. Were a palace to be converted 
 
 into
 
 LETTER XXVI. I33 
 
 into a caravanfera, fcarcely would an higher 
 price be fixed upon the apartments than is 
 here demanded. .Yet our kiqd landlords 
 aflure us, that the price of our apartments 
 will increafe in, what appears to me, a geo- 
 metric progreflion with the advancement of 
 the feafon. 
 
 One would imagine, that in a place which 
 nature deftined as an afylum for the fick, as 
 a kind of grand hoipital of invalids, wine 
 would be a fuperfluous article, and fcarcely 
 fetch any price. The contrary is the fact : 
 the afflicted multitude who crowd here, feem 
 to fwallow down no doubt by the advice 
 of their phyficians larger potions of this fa- 
 vourite beverage than even of the pure and 
 unadulterated element : by which judici- 
 ous medical arrangement, this place main- 
 tains its reputation, as the grand continental 
 mart, not only of health, but of feftivity 
 and pleafure.
 
 [ '34 3 
 
 LETTER XXVII. 
 
 Spa, May 20, 1791. 
 
 r 
 
 T% /j- A N K I N D have almoft uniformly con- 
 * = verted neceiTity into a virtue, and what 
 has been originally fubmitted to with reluc- 
 tance has ufually terminated in choice. The 
 fwampy foil of Holland, and the numerous 
 nervous fevers which arofe from this cir- 
 cumftance, gave birth to thofe black patches 
 upon each temple, which, by the fuperfti- 
 tion of antient times, were deemed fpecifics 
 againft nervous affections. Thefe are now 
 become a part of the Dutch drefs. In vain 
 does " La petite Hollandoife" put on her 
 broad orbicular bonnet, or coiff herfelf in 
 uncouth luftre ; till the large black patche.s 
 are affixed, fhe can expect to make no 
 conqueft. She may difplay her rounded 
 ihoulder, and exhibit her ilip-lhod heel ; yet 
 
 \vill
 
 LETTER XXVII. 135 
 
 will her artillery prove ineffectual without 
 the aid of thefe proud ornaments. 
 
 Something fimilar has taken place in the 
 numerous fprings and baths throughout 
 Europe. Accident difcovered their falubri- 
 ous effecls in remedying diforders, and re- 
 floring fluttered conftitutions. Amufe- 
 raents are deemed neceflary to the diflipa- 
 tion of that languor, which ill health and 
 medicinal regimen are apt to engender. The 
 colours of pleafure are never difplayed in 
 vain. The votaries of amufement foon 
 crowded to that ftandard, where the banners 
 of their goddefs were exalted, and the em- 
 pire thus became divided between the vale- 
 tudinarian and the voluptuary. 
 
 This commerce is not without its advan- 
 tages. Doubtlefs the aflbciated fupplicants of 
 Efcuiapius had formed a. ghaftly band, and 
 might have pafled a miferabley^wr in the 
 fociety of each other. The pallid face, the 
 leaden eye, the hollow cheek, and the ema- 
 ciated frame required the introduction of 
 K 4 fome
 
 i 3 6 LETTER XXVII. 
 
 fome more cheerful countenances ; the com- 
 mixture of thofe in whom the tide of blood 
 is not chilled by age, nor tainted by malady, 
 would enliven the fcenes thus deformed, 
 and tend to accelerate the falutary effeds of 
 the fprings. But mankind know no me- 
 dium ; at prefent the rivulets of health are 
 fwallowed up in the torrents of pleafure, 
 the feverity of regimen relaxes into the 
 luxury of debauch, and the medicinal po- 
 tion is fupplanted by the Bacchanalian 
 draught. Nor is this all the harpies of 
 fortune are difpofed in every quarter of this 
 Circean Elyfium. The young and the in- 
 cautious are inveigled by the fpecious ap- 
 pearances of perfonal fplendor and titled 
 confequence. Fortunes are thus committed, 
 not to the mercy of a card, or the chance of 
 a die, but to the artifice of thofe, whofe fole 
 talent is impofture, and whofe fole property 
 is vefted in the funds of human weaknefs. 
 
 The anecdotes which are here circulated, 
 and the eftimates here formed upon the iflue 
 
 of
 
 LETTER -XXVII. J37 
 
 of former feafons, render it more than pro- 
 bable, that the vaft influx of company in 
 the prefent, will exhibit various revolutions 
 of fortune in the gaming circle. Charmed, 
 as I am, with the afpecl of its hills, and the 
 fame of its waters, I cannot but confider 
 Spa as firft amongft thofe places of general 
 refort, which fwell the tide of human cor- 
 ruption. 1 cannot but believe, that . more 
 morals are debauched by the contagion of 
 its vices, than nerves braced by the vigour 
 of its air; and that more fortunes are ruin* 
 ed by the fafcination of its amufements, 
 than conftitutions reftored by the falubrity 
 of its fprings.
 
 t 138 1 
 
 LETTER XXVIII. 
 
 Duffeldorf, May 25, 1791* 
 
 HE man \vho travels for higher pur- 
 pofes than thofe of pleafure, will not 
 make a long refidence at Spa. We left it 
 after having beftowed a whole week upon 
 contemplating its deferted fprings, and ftrol- 
 ling Ainongft its filent promenades. I 
 glanced on the Sunday over the tablets 
 whiph decorate the church ; and found, that 
 fuperftition has once enjoyed as great domi- 
 nion here as pleafure now does. I could 
 not forbear remarking one in particular, 
 which held out a variety of indulgences to 
 the confreres of the holy facrament. One 
 of thofe grants purported, that if any one of 
 this fraternity vifit the fick with the holy 
 facrament; or, if indifpofed, write " Pater 
 * Nofter," and " Ave Maria," five times, he 
 fhali be entitled to indulgence for fixty days 
 
 next
 
 LETTER XXVIII. , 39 
 
 next enfuing. This appears a very reafon^ 
 able purchafe, and is, I imagine, the only- 
 article at Spa, which has not advanced in 
 price. Aix-la-Chapelle fmimed our journey 
 of Monday. The road pafled for the greater 
 part through a hilly country, and ill-aiir 
 riounced, by its vaft inequalities in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Aix, the entrance to an afy- 
 lum of invalids. 
 
 Aix is, indeed, a grand infirmary; the 
 baths are falubrious and convenient ; they 
 are deemed highly reftorative of decayed 
 conftitutions ; and are, therefore, frequent- 
 ed by numbers, whofe debaucheries have 
 fcarcely left them the ilrength to complain. 
 That quarter of the town in which the 
 hotels ftand, is alfo the fituation of the 
 baths, and for the moft part, the refidence 
 of the invalids. There is an air of vivacity 
 in the fliops, the porticoes, and the aflembly 
 rooms ; and the general exterior is not with- 
 out a pleafant and cheerful efFed. But fo 
 <nany ghaftly figures are perpetually mov- 
 ing
 
 ( i 4 o LETTER XXV III. 
 
 ing before you, wrapped in fedans, or 
 crawling from .feat to feat, that cheerfulnefs 
 is crofTed by a thoufand painful emotions; 
 and amufement in fuch a fcene would 
 fcarcely have upon me a better effect, than 
 a dance in a dungeon, or a concert in a 
 lazaretto. 
 
 . The cathedral of this town is a very 
 noble monument of antient times, and 
 ftands in high repute for the regalia of 
 Charlemagne, and other precious toys, 
 which it is known to contain. The greateft 
 curiofity it had for me, was the groupe of 
 wormippers, which was planted round one 
 of its altars. An old Francilcan was con- 
 ducting the religious ceremonies ; and the 
 people, who were of various qualities and 
 conditions, had thrown themfelves for the 
 mod part into the attitude refembling a crofs. 
 They extended their arms as they knelt, 
 and preferved both thefe and their counte- 
 nance immoveably fixed, notwithstanding 
 the interruption they might be fuppofed to 
 
 experience
 
 LETTER XXVIII. I4 , 
 
 experience from the paffing and repafling 
 of ftrangers.. An equal fervor of devotion 
 prefented itfelf at Juliers, to which we 
 pafled in the evening of yefterday. The 
 rain was falling inceflantly ; yet this did not 
 deter a number of people from repairing to 
 an altar erected in the open dreet, facing 
 the window of our hotel, in order to per- 
 form their vefpers. For nearly an hour 
 they fucceeded each other in thefe facred 
 fervices, kneeling upon the naked dones, 
 without the lead precaution, in contempt of 
 the frowns of weather, or the fmiles of the 
 rude fpectator. 
 
 I confefs I feel rebuked, rather than di- 
 verted, by fuch examples ; nor can I with- 
 hold my refpect from thofe, who, after the 
 way which we call fu perdition, fo fervently 
 worfhip the God of their fathers. We left 
 Juliers this morning by fun-rife, and taking 
 a breakfafl with an honed German, three 
 leagues on our way, obtained from him in-, 
 ftrudions for our route j and having crofTed 
 
 the
 
 I 4 2 LETTER XXIX. 
 
 the Rhine, in face of Duffeldorf, find our- 
 
 felves agreeably accommodated by the good 
 
 offices of Zimmerman, at the Hotel de Deux 
 
 Fonts. 
 
 LETTER XXIX. 
 
 May 26, i; 9 r. 
 
 T KNOW not how others may feel, but I 
 muft confefs very little pleafure is by 
 me derivable from thefo/ifarj contemplation 
 of works of art. When the eye has feaftecf 
 upon the charming tints of a captivating 
 picture, and is called to gaze upon others in 
 fucceffion, it appears as though fome dif- 
 euffion of the firft, and fome communica- 
 tion upon its excellencies were indifpenfa- 
 ble. Such at lead was the temper of my 
 mind in viewing the gallery of Dufleldorf ; 
 and as we are now houfed under the roof 
 of an honeft poft-mafter, five leagues on our 
 way to Cologne, I am impatient to difcloftf 
 3 to
 
 LETTER XXIX. 143 
 
 to you the imprefiions I received from the 
 invaluable collection that place contains. 
 
 You muft not expet as yet much fcience 
 in my defcriptions ; for I have not yet 
 learnt the technical phrafeology. From fome 
 motive which has efcaped me, I chofe to 
 invert the ufual order of obfervation, and 
 intreated to fee the chamber of Rubens firft. 
 The three principal paintings in this depart- 
 ment were the Adoration of the Shepherds, 
 theDeath of Seneca, and the Laft Judgment* 
 In the firft of thefe the countenance of the 
 Virgin was wonderfully expreflive of folem~ 
 nity and joy the looks of the fhepherds- 
 of furprize and congratulation. The Death 
 of Seneca made me fhudder. Of the Laft 
 judgment, I ought to fpeak in raptures, but 
 {hall refer you to thofe, whofe optics are 
 better qualified to do juftice to this vaft arid 
 fublime groupe. 
 
 The fecond chamber was that of Vander- 
 Werf. The paintings of this mafler, whofe 
 polifhed pencil defies the ftridnefs of criti- 
 
 cifm,
 
 ,44 LETTER XXIX. 
 
 cifm, prefent little that can move the heart. 
 I gave him biut a fhort trial, and haftened 
 to the third, or Italian chamber. Where 
 Raphael formed his gay and youthful idea 
 of St. John the Baptift, I know not, but 
 I fhould rather have expected to find this 
 great preacher of repentance in the Hermit 
 of Salvator Rofa, which hangs in the fame 
 apartment. 
 
 Two admirable productions of Carlo 
 Dolci, of very different characters, fhared 
 my next attention. The firft prefented our 
 Saviour bearing his crofs. I was particu- 
 larly ftruck with the delicacy of execution 
 in the livid hue, which the burden of a 
 crofs, and the anguifh of a crown of thorns 
 muft naturally induce. The fecond was a 
 St. Agnes the Martyr, in whofe counte- 
 nance the painter had contrived to intro- 
 duce fuch touches of fweetnefs, that I could 
 have gazed upon it for ever. 
 
 Two paintings of Schalken interefted me 
 greatly. The firft reprefented " la lumiere
 
 LETTER XXIX. 145 
 
 " vraiementfouffiee," or "the candle actually 
 " blown out.". This is one of the pleafant- 
 eft things I ever faw. A girl is pictured as 
 holding in her hand a lighted candle, which 
 a boy endeavours to blow out, and (he 
 by a counter-action of breath to recover. 
 The boy's lungs are, however, too ftrong 
 for the girl's refiftance : he gives a fteady 
 blaft, and the candle is feen upon the point 
 of lofmg its flame. All thefe circumftances 
 and effects, with the correfponding fluctua- 
 tions of light and (hade, are rendered with 
 inimitable accuracy. 
 
 The fecond of this maftcr was of a more 
 ferious defcription, and reprefented " the 
 *' wife and foolilh virgins." The painter 
 has chofen the moment, when the call is 
 heard of, " Behold the Bridegroom cometh! 
 " Go ye out to meet him." The wife vir- 
 gins are defcribed, as obeying with promp- 
 titude the fummons ; their countenance? 
 wear the air of confidence, and fpeak the 
 language of 'preparation. Their lamps are 
 
 VOL. i. L trimmed,
 
 i 4 6 LETTER XXIX. 
 
 trimmed, the lights are brilliant, and they 
 appear to have heard the fudden call with- 
 out fear or furprize. On the other hand, a 
 greater fcene of confufion and derangement 
 cannot be imagined, than that in which the 
 foolifh virgins are found. Their air is that 
 of perfons perplexed and diiconcerted : fome 
 of their lamps are already out, in others the 
 light is expiring. They are bufied in fruit- 
 lefs endeavours to preferve the fading, or 
 rekindle the extinguished flame. The agita- 
 tion, \vith which they fupplicate a fupply of 
 oil from their wifer companions, is extreme. 
 Thole : latter regard their ill-timed petitions 
 with looks ex'preffive of aftonifhment at 
 their improvidence, and inability to fupply 
 them. This is furely a mafter-piece of 
 painting for the artful difpofition of lights, 
 and the ftrong delineation of circumflance 
 and character. -. 
 
 The beauteous groupe of the Holy Fa- 
 mily, by Raphael, came unfortunately too 
 late to produce its perfect eifed. Sehalken 
 
 had
 
 LETTER XXX. 147 
 
 had full pofleffion of me, and while diligent 
 to ftudy the chafter lights of that perfect 
 matter, the flafhes of the Dutchman danced 
 like a meteor before my eyes.' Such is the 
 influence of firft impreffions on future 
 habits ; and to indulge a tranfient moral 
 refledion he has ill ftudied life and nature, 
 who lhall think it indifferent, which of two 
 oppofmg principles fhall have been 
 inculcated. 
 
 LETTER XXX. 
 
 Coblentz, May 30, 1791. 
 
 /COLOGNE was the firft town we en- 
 tered after leaving the poft-houfe from 
 which I laft wrote. It is a very antient and 
 dignified city. The Romans knew it by the 
 diftinction of Colonia Agrippina ; and it has 
 been befieged and plundered as often as its 
 rank and dignity demanded. Would you 
 wifh for more honours ? It is an Hanfe 
 L 2 town,
 
 r 4 3 LETTER XMX. 
 
 town, pofleffes ail univerfity, boafts an arch- 
 bimopric, a principality, and a thoufand 
 other important appendages. The city is of 
 wide extent ; its churches are numerous and 
 fplendid, its fortifications ftrong, and its inha- 
 bitants civil and obliging. You will, by this 
 time, affuredly allow, that I have not made 
 a bad ufe of my time, in learning fo much 
 of the hiffory and manners of a town, in 
 which I pafledycwr hours. 
 
 Before we entered Cologne, we had to 
 pafs the Rhine. Ourfelves and equipage 
 were embarked in a large ferry-boat, and 
 quickly whirled acrofs. The inn, where we 
 flopped, abounded in German barons and 
 French counts : a peep at the cathedral, 
 and a ftroll about the ftreets, were all the 
 actual obiervations I had opportunity to 
 make. 
 
 We pafled the night, and a confiderable 
 portion of the following day at Bonn, 
 which, in refpect of fituation, far furpafles 
 Cologne. The palace of the Elector com- 
 mands
 
 LETTER XXX. , 49 
 
 inands a very fine landfcape of mountain- 
 ous country,, and, at the time I entered the 
 gardens, a groupe of velvet fuits retired 
 from the ennui of the drawing-room were 
 cooling themfelves with a promenade. I at- 
 tended the mummery of the- cathedral- <a 
 mixed emotion of indignation and refpedl: 
 poflefled me; and I knew not whether moft 
 to defpife the abfurdity of the wormip, or 
 admire the devotion of the worshippers. 
 
 The village where we pafled laft night 
 is called Remangen, between four and five 
 leagues diftant from Bonn. The country 
 now begins to wear an interefting appear- 
 ance, and the road which conducted us 
 from Bonn to Remangen was diftinguifhed 
 by beauties of a peculiar nature mountains 
 on the one hand clothed with vineyards, 
 the Rhine flowing in filent majefly on the 
 other. 
 
 The approach to Remangen was marked 
 
 with circumftances of fingular fublimity. 
 
 The road pafled under a rock, upon whole 
 
 L Q bofom
 
 i 5 o LETTER XXX. 
 
 bofom were thrown, as it were in rude ccn- 
 fufion, houfes and vineyards ; and from 
 whofe fhady futnmit glittered the fpire of a 
 church. This mafs of rock over-arched the 
 road, which was here very narrow ; and the 
 whole appeared to projed in formidable 
 magnificence over the Rhine that rolled be- 
 low. I ftrolled in the evening over thefe 
 picturefque fcenes ; and, feated upon the 
 heights, was charmed with the landfcape 
 foftened by the laft tints of the fetting fun, 
 and the harmony of three ruftic voices, 
 which fung a trio upon the rocks below 
 me a practice very frequent among the 
 Germans. 
 
 We left Remangen the enfuing morning, 
 and pafied through a continuation of that 
 fcenery I have defcribed, but ftill improving 
 in beauty. The mountains to our right 
 were of confiderable magnitude, and fhaped 
 in various forms ; yet all appeared in an 
 high ftate of fertility and culture. Ander- 
 nach, where we breakfafted, is a curious 
 
 remnant
 
 L E:T T E R XXX. 151 
 
 remnant of antient ftrength. It is fur- 
 rounded by ramparts mounted with a co- 
 vert way^ by which one can make the tour 
 of the whole place, and view from a fuf- 
 ficient eminence the houfes beneath. I 
 know not thehiftory of this place, but judge, 
 from the magnitude of its fortifications, that 
 it has once been of confiderable note, and 
 not unfrequently the feat of war. My mind 
 was occupied by ferious reflections, when I 
 trod among its ruins, and counted its dila- 
 pidated towers. " And inch, faid I, is 1 hu- 
 " man grandeur, and fuch the boafted 
 <c monuments of arms and heroifm-r " I had 
 continued my reverie, but the crack of the 
 whip announced the moment of departure ; 
 and I was dragged in fullen filence to the 
 place from which I now write.
 
 LETTER XXXI. 
 
 Mayence, Jure 2, 1791, 
 
 SITUATED at the confluence of the Rhine 
 and Mofelle, and flanked with moun- 
 tains overfpread with fhrubs and ruins, Coh- 
 lentz prefents a very charming picture to 
 the traveller's eye. I have kept a tolerable 
 look-out upon the countenances of the fair- 
 fex as I afcended the Rhine, and have 
 found their beauty upon the increafe as I 
 advanced into the country. 
 
 The drefles of the men are ftifF, for- 
 mal, gothic. It is truly ridiculous to look 
 from the window upon the bag- wigs, 
 fwords, and chapeaus-bras that pafs. I told 
 you above of mountains and ruins that en- 
 tered into the fcenery of Coblentz ; but 
 crofftng the Rhine to the oppofite vine- 
 yards,
 
 LETTER XXXI. ,53 
 
 yards, the fairy vifions faded, the objects 
 grew lefs interefting in proportion as they 
 were rnoi nearly viewed ; and my difficul- 
 ties increafed, when I had flattered myfelf 
 with the idea of conquering them. After 
 encountering much heat and fatigue, I re- 
 linquimed my project, and retired to my 
 old (ration. Thus, like the greater part of 
 human profpects, thefe diflant delights ap- 
 peared to advantage only in the expecta- 
 tion. 
 
 There are two evils in travelling, for 
 which a man muft prepare himfelf with 
 fortitude, a change of language, and of 
 money. This latter is extremely perplex- 
 ing in running through the different Elec- 
 torates and Principalities. Every tranfition 
 of half a dozen leagues has introduced us to 
 a people not indeed of a different fpeech 
 but of 3. different coin ; and it would re- 
 quire profound fkill in calculation to pafs 
 without detriment from DufTeldorf to May- 
 ence, 
 
 I have
 
 I 5 4 LETTER XXXI. 
 
 I have viewed the town of Coblentz, and 
 read its hiftory ; but as the firft has furnifli- 
 ed me with nothing extraordinaflk and the 
 fecond would prefent to you nothing in- 
 terefting I fhall neither amufe you with the 
 meafurement oF its ftreets, or the detail of 
 its revolutions ; ftudious to avoid (though 
 not always with fuccefs) the foible of thofe 
 travellers, who, in the hope of giving im- 
 portance to their temporary journals, forget 
 themfelves into hiftorians while the rea- 
 der is left to murmur at being introduced 
 to a people, not of modern, but of antient 
 manners. 
 
 In the room, then, of erudite intelligence, 
 I fhall relate to you two grievous evils, 
 which we experienced at Coblentz, in the 
 extortion of our landlord, and the defertion 
 of our coachman. The firft is an old and 
 uninterefting complaint, the latter has fome- 
 thing more of novelty and importance. Our 
 coachman he, alas ! I mean, who once oc- 
 cupied the office was known at Bruflels, 
 
 his
 
 LETTER XXXf. , 5 
 
 his native town, by the name of Antoine: 
 all our intercourfe with him discovered but 
 orie^wjMand one virtue. His fault was 
 obftinacy^-his virtue univerfal language. His 
 obftinacy was cool, phlegmatic, and invin- 
 cible. It (hewed itfelf in a flric~t adherence 
 to firft habits ; and, in defiance of advice 
 and remonftrance, he to the laft continued 
 to carry his long green whip like a weeping 
 willow bending folemnly over his right 
 ihoulder. 
 
 But juftice muft be done to his virtue. 
 As an univerfal linguift, he fervfd us far 
 guide, interpreter, caterer and in.iliort, in 
 every poffible way of mediation. Such 
 were the powers of his tongue, that he 
 would argue with equal volubility in Dutch, 
 Flemim, French, or German. He turned 
 reflive at Coblentz, where he feemed to 
 have found a fociety he approved ; and 
 folding his arms, when fummoned to his 
 duty, peremptorily refufed us the further 
 fervices of his whip, and his tongue. 
 
 Thus
 
 Z 5 6 LETTER XXXII. 
 
 Thus difappointed, we continued out 
 route, not without difficulty, to this place. 
 We were amufed, as we pafle^Lwith the 
 varying views of a very fine country, vifit- 
 ed fome hot fprings in our way, and arrived 
 without accident before Mayence at the 
 Clofe of yefterday. 
 
 LETTER XXXII. 
 
 Spire, June 4, 1791, 
 
 A YENCE, or, as it is ftiled in German 
 orthography, Mentz, is a very fine 
 town. The approach to it from the bridge 
 of boats here thrown acrofs the Rhine is 
 ftrikingly beautiful. It pofTefies a very no- 
 ble quay, extending along the banks of the 
 river ; and is rendered, by its fortifications, 
 capable of a ftrong defence. 
 
 The day after our arrival was the feuival 
 of the Afceniion, and I attended the celebra- 
 tion of high mafs at one of the principal 
 
 - churches.
 
 LETTER XXXII. 157 
 
 churches. It was a grand folemnity, ac- 
 companied with very excellent mufic, and 
 the audience very crowded. I was parti- 
 cularly fcruck with the beautiful counte- 
 nances of a long range of children, who at- 
 tended the performance. But what has 
 furprized and diverted me, at this and fome 
 other towns through which we have lately 
 pafled, is, that boys eight or nine years of 
 age walk the ftreets with queues literally 
 reaching half way down their legs. 
 
 The table d'hote where we dined was 
 attended by a very brilliant circle of officers 
 and Abbes. The latter appeared of more 
 than ordinary confequence, were drefTed in 
 very fhowy fuits, and wore half a dozen 
 ftars, crofles, &c. Their hands were wrap- 
 ped up in very wide ruffles, and their pro- 
 feffion was only to be traced in the fhort- 
 nefs of their hair. 
 
 I have often been led to remark the very 
 
 ftriking fuperiority in accommodation, 
 
 which a ftranger finds in a French fociety, 
 
 1 * above
 
 J5 3 LETTER XXXII. 
 
 above that of every other nation. By what-* 
 ever name it be called, and from whatever 
 caufe it proceed, the attention of a French- 
 man to the embarrafiment of a ftranger is 
 v r onderful. I have witnefled on many oc- 
 cafions the exercife of this difpofition. At 
 a Dutch table d'hote, one finds the reverfe 
 of this. Bufmefs fwallows up all. The. 
 concerns of the change, the rate of mer- 
 chandize, the rife and fall of the flocks, are 
 the objects which take place of every con- 
 fiderntion ; and leave them neither leifure 
 nor inclination to confult the eafe, or relieve 
 the embarrafTment of a ftranger. One is 
 but little bettered at a German table : them- 
 fetves are the parties whom they are anxi- 
 ous to oblige, and their attentions are ex- 
 cited to provide in the beft manner for their 
 own entertainment. I fhall not draw the 
 compnrifon between either of thefe, and 
 what prevails at our public tables in Eng- 
 land, left my national vanity fliould be 
 humbled by "the conclufionr 
 
 4 . I was
 
 LETTER XXXII. 159 
 
 I was not at a lofs to account for the 
 hauteur of the ecclefiaftics in this town, as 
 the chapter is compofed of dignified cha- 
 racters ; and no man can become a canon, till 
 he has proved himfelf noble four generations 
 deep. The wines drank here were exceed- 
 ingly good. The richeft vineyards are to 
 be found in the neighbourhood ; and Ho- 
 cheim, which has given name to the Hock, 
 is at no great diftance from Mentz. 
 
 We employed the clofe of the day in 
 making a journey of four leagues to Oppen- 
 heim, a town no longer of confequence. It 
 Hands clofe upon the Rhine, and is fur- 
 rounded with fcenery of no ordinary beauty. 
 We pa{Ted our night here, and advanced 
 the following day through Worms to Man- 
 helm. You will not expect me to defcribe 
 with minutenefs a town where I only took 
 a breakfaft. I fhall content myfelf, there- 
 fore, with faying, that Worms is a pleafant 
 town, fituated about five leagues front 
 Mentz. As to its antient hiftory, you will 
 
 find
 
 i6o LETTER XXXII. 
 
 find it more celebrated in ecclefiaftical than 
 civil records. Within this town, that in- 
 trepid champion of reformation, Martin 
 Luther, made his celebrated defence before 
 the ftates of the empire. 
 
 Our entrance into Manheim was ob- 
 ftru&ed by fome military formalities, and 
 the treatment we received indicated much 
 feverity and vigilance. I was very much 
 ftruck with the beauty of Manheim, whofe 
 appearance eclipfes, indeed, all the towns I 
 have feen upon the Rhine. On entering 
 the ftreets, we could difcover little befides 
 French officers ftrolling arm in- arm, bear- 
 ing the white cockade. We very foon 
 learnt, that this place is the rendezvous of 
 the emigrants ; that here they are fuffered 
 to poffefs, not only an afylum againft dan- 
 ger, but a nurfery "of vengeance ; that here 
 they are indulged with a particular fpecies 
 of protection and countenance ; and that 
 hopes the moft fanguine are by them en- 
 tertained of recovering their forfeited do- 
 mains.
 
 LETTER XXX1L 161 
 
 mains, and humbling in their turn thofe by 
 xvhotn they have been humbled. All the 
 inns were crouded with thofe dignified Re- 
 fugees ; and the day after our arrival, great 
 preparations were making to receive the 
 Comte d'Artois. 
 
 I could not but reflect, when I faw them 
 affembled on the parade, and confidered the 
 impoflibility of their return, how ftrikingly 
 public juftice is executed upon them, as a 
 body, in their profcription. A century paft, 
 Germany received into its hofpitable bofom, 
 Proteftants, exiled by the anceftors of thofe 
 who are now paying the forfeit of ancient 
 oppreffions. So true is it, that the ways of 
 Providence are filled with equity ; and the 
 revolutions of empires refolve themfelves 
 into fo many difpenfations of retributive 
 juftice. 
 
 VOL. I. M
 
 [ ,62 
 
 LETTER XXXIII. 
 
 Strafbourg, June 7, 1791. 
 
 T TOLD you in my laft, that the difcipline 
 of Manheim appeared very ftrit ; and I 
 found upon enquiry, that regulations of 
 great feverity were enforced. I was cau- 
 tioned, by the waiter at our inn, when pro- 
 ceeding to xvalk with my fword-Jlick^ to- 
 difarm myfelf before I left the roc/m as or- 
 ders the moft rigorous had been iffued on 
 that fubject. I muft refer you, for parti- 
 culars of this beautiful town, to thofe who 
 have feen more of it; and. you will not have 
 any great difficulty in finding defcriptiona 
 of its palace, its gallery, its fquares, and its 
 fortifications. I pafTed but a day here, and 
 flept at Spire the following evening. There 
 is nothing very remarkable in Spire, ex- 
 cepting
 
 LETTER XXXIII. 163 
 
 ctpting its remote antiquity. It flands 
 about fix leagues from Manheim. 
 
 The following morning, we entered the 
 province of Alface. This was announced 
 to us by an Office of the cuftoms, bearing 
 the infcription of " Bureau National," and 
 fuperfcribed " La Loi et Le Roi." We 
 were commanded to halt, and the Officers 
 infpected all our luggage. We were happy 
 to be informed, that this is the fole incon- 
 venience of this nature we fhall experience 
 till we quit the kingdom. This, therefore, 
 is one of thofe improvements in the police 
 of the country, for which we ftand indebted 
 to the wifdom of its Reformers. The re^ 
 collection of what we experienced in Flan- 
 ders, and of what was praclifed in France 
 under the old fyftem, difpofed us to wiih all 
 poflible profperity to the new Government. 
 
 Pa/ling the wood, which conduces to the 
 town of Lauterbourg, we were incommod- 
 ed with a deep and hot fand, and purfued 
 by flies of an extraordinary magnitude. \ 
 M 2 was
 
 i6* LETTER XXXIII. 
 
 was amufed with the very fudden change 
 which I difcovered in the appearance, the 
 drefs, and the air of the inhabitants, in paf- 
 fing from the head-quarters of Ariftocracy. 
 The people all wear, without exception, 
 the national cockade ; and each town has 
 its Garde Nationals. I never faw people 
 more at their eafe. They appear not yet 
 to have recovered from thofe paroxyfms of 
 tranfport, into which the Revolution firft 
 threw them j and they are frolicking with- 
 out apprehenfion, at a time when the exiled 
 noblefle are plotting fchemes for their de- 
 ftrucYion, at the diftance of half a dozen 
 leagues from their frontier. 
 
 The town of Lauterbourg was enlivened 
 by the notes of military mufic ; and the po- 
 pular air of " Ca ira" refounded in every 
 ftreet. The wine in this town was delici- 
 ous, and appeared more abundant than we 
 had yet feen it. We rofe at an early hour, 
 and made a journey of twelve leagues, 
 which brought us to Strafbourg. The heat 
 
 continued
 
 LETTER XXXIII. 165 
 
 continued to perfecute us all this day, but 
 we found relief by bathing in the Rhine. 
 
 Our entrance into Strafbourg was ob- 
 flruded for a fliort time by the demand of 
 a paflport. Againft this we flood out with 
 fome violence, perceiving the object of the 
 officer was to obtain a fee, and were at 
 length .victorious. So difficult is it for the 
 wifeft and beft regulations to defeat, in every 
 inftance, the attempts of corruption. The 
 heavings of fubdued oppreffion will occa- 
 fion fome temporary interruption ; but 
 truth, juftice, and order will finally triumph. 
 
 I have, I believe, omitted in its place to 
 mention, that our route from Coblentz was 
 obftrudted by a long religious proceffion. 
 A very large crofs was borne at the head of 
 thofe devotees : priefts in furplices fucceed- 
 ed ; and a promifcuous throng of men, 
 women, and children brought up the rear. 
 They chaunted as the proceffion moved 
 various fervices ; and produced a very 
 agreeable harmony. \Ve had fome dif- 
 M 3 faulty
 
 j66 LETTER XXXIII. 
 
 ficulty to pafs them ; and foon encountered 
 a fecond fett, who were defcending the hill 
 to meet them, and chaunting their matins 
 with the fame mufical folemnity. The pic- 
 turefque fcenes through which we were 
 paffing, received an interefting colouring 
 from thofe ceremonies of fuperftitious devo- 
 tion. 
 
 My mind is, indeed, full of the varied 
 imagery, which a rapid movement through 
 fuch an extent of country has introduced. 
 I have a thoufand pictures continually be- 
 fore me, of lofty mountains and level plains, 
 of craggy rocks and cultured fields j but the 
 fucceffion has been fo quick, that I can hard- 
 ly review them with diftinctnefs. You will 
 have much to fupply, as you travel with 
 me, from the hiftories of thofe who have 
 gone before. Such obfervations as circum- 
 ftances fuggeft, {hall be duly regiftered as I 
 pafs; and fo much fhall be recorded for your 
 entertainment, as the current of thought 
 may at that moment fupply; but I pretend to 
 
 anfwer
 
 LETTER XXXIV. 167 
 
 anfwer for no higher amufement than can 
 be found in the imperfect colourings of a 
 rapid pencil faithful rather to the idea im- 
 prefTed, than to the fubjeft which may give 
 Jt birth. 
 
 LETTER XXXIV. 
 
 Bafle, June 10, 1791. 
 
 \T7H AT a ftupendous event is this Revo- 
 lution! The evil which has baffled 
 ages of refiftance, and which feemed to 
 know no, limits of duration^ has in a mo- 
 ment vanifhed. Surely, it is an interefting 
 fight to contemplate upon the fpot, thofe 
 changes which have taken place upon a 
 people, bound in the chain of immemorial 
 tyranny. There is fomething fo novel in 
 the phrafeology now employed, that the very 
 language feems animated by the Revolution- 
 ary ipirit. Liberty, Law, Conftitution, Rights 
 
 of
 
 i68 LETTER XXXIV, 
 
 of men, are terms indeed of no new crea*- 
 tion ; but they had flept for ever in the ca-r 
 binets of the learned, if the event now the 
 fubject of univerfaj celebration had not 
 awakened them into life and action. 
 
 I told you in my laft, that we entered 
 Strafbourg on the evening of the 6th. The 
 following morning I amufed myfelf in exa- 
 mining the different parts of the town. You 
 have heard fufficiently of the Cathedral, its 
 brazen gates, its ftupendous tower, its won- 
 derful clock, &c. On thofe fubjeds no- 
 thing can be added ; but the temper of the 
 people has afTumed a new feature ; and thofe 
 long converfant with the country, are alone 
 competent to tell, how great are the changes 
 which have been introduced into the man- 
 ners, the fentiments, and converfation of the 
 Prencru 
 
 For myfelf, who have not had that ad- 
 vantage, I find it tolerably fupplied by the 
 intercourfe I held with the Emigrants at 
 BrufTds, upon whom no change whatever 
 
 had
 
 LETTER XXXIV. 169 
 
 hadpafled, except a tranfient chagrin, which 
 yielded to the firft occafion of merriment. 
 I find a very finking contraft between the 
 manners of the Revolutionifts and the Arifto- 
 crats. The turn of politics which the firft 
 have adopted has coniblidated very greatly 
 their natural vivacity, and reduced the buoy-* 
 ancy of their former levities to an agreeable 
 humour. 
 
 All is political at Strasbourg. The cor- 
 ner of every ftreet is covered with Program- 
 mas y and the walls of every church deco- 
 rated with Proclamations and Decrees. The 
 greater part of the latter, advertife the fale 
 of the national effects. It is very gratify- 
 ing to fee, how rationally the language of 
 the Preamble is worded; and what juft mo- 
 difications of expreflion now convey the 
 fandion of royal authority : " Louis XVI. 
 " par la grace de Dieu et la loi conftitu- 
 ?t tionelle de 1'etat, Roi de Fran9ois, falut. 
 " L'AfTemblee Nationale a decretee, et nous 
 
 " voulons et ordormons," &c. O Spirit 
 
 of Louis XIV ! what a contraft does this 
 
 prefent
 
 i 7 o LETTER XXXIV. 
 
 prefent to the ancient form of the Royal 
 decrees ; and what a complete reformation 
 of fyftem does it befpeak, in thofe who wil/ 9 
 and thofe who obey ! One fcarcely walks 
 twenty yards now, without meeting in places 
 of public obfervation a declaration of civil 
 rights; and all the ihops of mufie and prints, 
 are hung with national ballads and political 
 caricatures. 
 
 The counterpart to this, may be read in 
 an extract from one of the late King's let-p 
 ters to Marechal Richelieu : " Je ne puis 
 " plus difFerer a faire fentir a mon parle- 
 ** ment, que je fuis le maitre abfolutg*-~& que 
 " mi ptilffance abfohte vient deDiEU, etque 
 *' je n'en dois compte qu'a //', le jour ou il 
 ftt me retirera de ce monde." And again, in 
 another letter, he tells him : " Je leur ferai 
 " voir, que je ne tiens inon pouvoir que 
 " deDiEU, que je n'ai de compte a rendre 
 ft qu'a ////, et que perfonne dans mon roy* 
 *', aume ne doit s'cppofer a ma volonte." 
 It forms a very mterefling fpeculation to 
 
 bring
 
 LETTER XXXIV. 17I 
 
 bring together thofe fentiments of a few 
 years paft, and the patriotic declarations of 
 the reigning fovereign. Louis XVI. is faid to 
 have expreffed on every occafion the great- 
 eft readinefs to accommodate his conduct to 
 the wifhes of the nation, " Je ne veux que 
 *' le bien de mon peuple," is a fentiment 
 jn which he has frequently indulged. 
 
 Moore was certainly no mean ftuderit 
 of the French character. Perhaps no man 
 ever caught with more accuracy, or ren- 
 dered with more felicity, " the living man- 
 " ners" of this nation. But he was not 
 endued with the fpirit of prophecy. The 
 Jleadieft fight fees diflant objects darkly and 
 confufedly. Let him fpeak for himfelf; 
 " If any of .their kings were to behave in, 
 *' fuch an imprudent and outrageous man- 
 ^ ner as to occafion a revolt, and if the 
 " infurgents adually got the better, I que- 
 f< ftion if they would think of new-model- 
 tc ling the government, and limiting the 
 V power of the crown, as was done in Bri-
 
 i 7 2 LETTER XXXV, 
 
 ** tain at the Revolution, fo as to prevent 
 " the like abufes for the future. They never 
 " would think of going farther, I imagine, 
 " than placing another prince of the Bour- 
 " bon family upon the throne, with the 
 " fame power that his predeceffor had, and 
 " then quietly laying down their arms, 
 " fatisfied with his royal word, or declara- 
 <e tion, to govern with more equity." Let- 
 ter VL Q*L France. Upon fuch predic- 
 tion, the events that have fmce happened 
 are a fufEcient commentary. 
 
 LETTER XXXV. 
 
 Bafle, June 10, 1791. 
 
 E general complaint at Strafbourg was 
 want of money. Nothing is to be 
 found in circulation, but paper and copper. 
 " Tout iroit bien," faid an old man, " fi 
 ** on avoit de 1'argent." At all the fhops, 
 the greateft apprehenfions are entertained 
 
 of
 
 LETTER XXXV. J73 
 
 of being paid for their merchandize in pa- 
 per. This, amongft each other, they are ob- 
 liged to admit ; but in their intercourfe with 
 ftrangers, they ftruggle very hard for fpecie. 
 I turned into the fhop of a Marcbandc 
 de modes to purchafe fome articles. The 
 bargain was ftruck, the feveral particulars 
 wrapped up, and I was fearching in my 
 pocket for the money ; when obferving me 
 draw out fome paper by accident, fhe laid 
 immediate hold upon the packet I had pur- 
 chafed, and demanded with haAe, " Allez- 
 " vous me payer en papier, Monfieur?" 
 " Si fait," faid I. " Eh bien done," replied 
 ihe, " je garderai ma marchandife." I foon 
 relieved her of the anxiety fhe felt, and 
 brought a glow upon her cheek, by count- 
 ing out upon the table the fum agreed. 
 This is indeed the greateft I had almoft 
 faid the only grievance that I have dif- 
 covered among them ; and they fcruple not 
 to predict, that the very favourable fale of 
 the national domains will raife the credit of 
 3 their
 
 i74 LETTER xxxv. 
 
 their paper, and give them as rnuf.Ii money 
 as they have liberty. 
 
 I mud afiure you, that I found the ftate 
 of the* people in this part of France very 
 different from what it had been reprefented. 
 At Manheim and Worms, reports prevailed 
 of the mofl ferious tumults now reigning in 
 France ; and we were more than once cau- 
 tioned againft trufting ourfelves amongil a 
 canallk^ who would hang us up at the lamp- 
 poft for a word or a look. This fiatement 
 has fo little connection with truth, that every 
 thing paries with the utmoft order; and, fofar 
 as I can judge from obfervation and report, 
 freedom of remark encounters lefs danger 
 here than at the court of Mariheim. Nor 
 thing could furpafs the ftriclnefs which 
 prevailed in every quarter where the fugi- 
 tive nobility are received ; and if I might 
 draw conclufions refpecting the country at 
 large from what I fee around me, reftraint 
 of opinion is exiled with thofe who owed 
 to its exiftence their guilty pre-eminence. 
 
 The
 
 LETTER XXXV. I?J 
 
 The day after our arrival, was rendered 
 feftive by a new enrolment of National 
 guards. This was formed out of the citi- 
 zens over the age of eighteen years, and 
 was efTe&ed without the leaft fymptom of 
 diforder. Befide the guard thus regularly 
 embodied, the citizens are feen every even- 
 ing in different parts of the town, learning, 
 againft an emergency, the ufe of arms. It 
 certainly is animating to read, in a thou- 
 fand confpicuous places, proclamations fet- 
 ting forth the right of private judgment ; 
 allowing to every man the free exercife.^f 
 his opinion in matters of religion ; and e- 
 ftablifhing to each individual the liberty of 
 adopting that mode of worfkip he. beft ap- 
 proves. 
 
 This would, nowever, be nugatory and ; 
 ridiculous, were the flighted encourage-* 
 ment given to contumacy and diforder. 
 This has been &id out of the country ; but 
 the contrary has appeared wherever I have 
 enquired. I read upon the door of the ca- 
 8 thedral
 
 176 LETTER XXXV. 
 
 thedral at Strafbourg an advertifement 5 
 which ftated, " That a young man having 
 cc behaved improperly in the Cathedral du- 
 " ring the performance of divine fervice j 
 " and, after admonition from the centinel, 
 " perfifted in a conduct unbecoming the Jb- 
 ** lemnity of the place and occafion^ was, by 
 " the officers of the police, fentenced to im* 
 u prifonment for this infult offered to religious 
 '* Tjoorjkip" This accords but ill with a 
 toleration of diforder. 
 
 Before I left Strafbourg, I vifited the 
 niuufoleum of Marechal Saxe, at the church 
 of St. Thomas ; and had an offer of feeing 
 the National armoury, but it came too late to 
 ferve me. We reached Colmar in the e- 
 vening, after a journey of fixteen leagues. 
 Yefterday we made a very fatiguing one of 
 fourteen leagues, and reached Bafle in the 
 evening. The heat and the duft were ex- 
 cefiively troublefome. It was not without 
 difficulty that we procured a bafon of milk 
 at a village where the horfes were baited. 
 
 Coffee
 
 LETTER XXXV. I?7 
 
 Coffee is in general abundant in thefe parts 
 of the country; and this is one of the firft 
 inftances of diftrefs which we have expe- 
 rienced upon the article of breakfaft. 
 
 At the village of Mulhaufen, eight leagues 
 from Colmar, we alighted to dine,. The 
 houfe was ordinary ; and four travellers, 
 wrapped in white night-caps, apparently of 
 mean condition, were about to commence 
 their meal. I enquired of the hoftefs, if 
 we could be alfo accommodated with a din- 
 ner. She told me with an air of great un- 
 concern, that we might dine with thofe 
 gentlemen ; or if that did not pleafe us 
 we might take what they left ; for that was 
 the whole that her kitchen could produce. 
 We did not long deliberate upon the choice 
 which our landlady had given us. The 
 dinner was indeed better than the company. 
 They were Germans, except one, who 
 converfed with us in French, and afked me 
 many queflions refpecling the opinions en- 
 tertained abroad of their Revolution. I told 
 
 VOL. i. N hirn,
 
 178 LETTER XXXVI. 
 
 him, I had feen many Ariftocrats at Man- 
 heim. He aCked me, if they had raifed any 
 troops? I told him, No; there were none 
 but Officers. " Ah, ma foi, Menfieur," 
 faid he, " une arme'e d'officiers s'avancera 
 " peu;'* Another, with whom I after- 
 wards converfed, declaimed with fome vio- 
 lence againft the propriety of Alface being 
 continued under the French government : 
 " On nous fait payer," faid he, " 80,000 
 " livres pour etre Fran9ois ; et c'eft payer 
 * e affez cher, le privilege d'etre gouverne' par 
 " des etr angers" 
 
 LETTER XXXVI. 
 
 Bafle, June 11, 1791. 
 
 f T7E entered Bafle at what would elfe- 
 where^ be called eight, but what is 
 fcere called nine, o'clock. I have never yet 
 heard a fatisfadory account of this advance 
 of an hour in the time of the day, or what 
 
 were
 
 L~E T T E R XXXVI. 179 
 
 were the real circumftances that occafioned 
 it. An old traveller, who pafled this way 
 near two hundred years ago, reports of it, 
 that a confpiracy had been formed to betray 
 the city, and that the falfe (Inking of the 
 clock difconcerted the plot. He further 
 fays, that they preferved a certain ftone, 
 called the Hiiftelne^ upon which the heads 
 of the confuls and other conl'pirators were 
 ftruck off; unluckily adding, however, that 
 people were not agreed upon this piece of 
 hiftory, and that fome referred the advance 
 of the clock to a defign of haftening the 
 proceedings of the council. It is, however, 
 a curious circumftance, to fee a whole city 
 one complete hour in all their tranfactions 
 before their neighbours ; and to a ftranger, 
 it occafions fome etnbarraflment, as the fun 
 will neither rife nor fet in conformity to the 
 decrees of Bafle. 
 
 The hotel of the Three Kings is that to 
 
 which all the world goes; and I ihould 
 
 fuppofe there is not a pleafanter Inn in Eu- 
 
 jsr 2 rope.
 
 i8o LETTER XXXVI. 
 
 rope. Situated on the weftern banks of the 
 Rhine^ it commands a delightful view ; and 
 the faloon appropriated to the table d'hote 
 is the moft cheerful apartment I ever was 
 in. The walls are hung with various en- 
 gravings, reprefenting fome of the choked 
 fcenery in Switzerland. The Rhine is here 
 in its greateft beauty, and fills a wider bed 
 between this place and Stralbourg, than in 
 any other part of its courfe. Nothing can 
 furpafs its colouring. The fea, in all its 
 azure and ferenity, can alone furnifh a pa- 
 rallel to the cerulean tranfparency of its 
 waters. It has confiderable rapidity in its 
 defcent towards Strafbourg, and the boats 
 which pafs thither are broke up and fold. 
 The fame is done upon the Rhone and the 
 Panube, it being impracticable, without 
 infinite labour and coft, to bring up a verTel 
 againft fo ftrong a current. 
 
 The place and the people prefented to me 
 an appearance particularly gratifying, by the 
 ftrong characters every where obfervable, of 
 
 fimplicity,
 
 LETTER XXXVI. i% t 
 
 fimplicity, cleanlinefs, and induftry. Bafle 
 has been a place of no fmall dignity in the 
 earlier periods of its hiflory; though I que- 
 ftion if it ever poffefled, in the days of its 
 Imperial grandeur, fo folid a profperity as 
 it now derives from its union with the Can- 
 tons of Switzerland. Bafle counts among 
 its citizens, feveral men of eminence in arts 
 and literature. Holben and Buxtorf were 
 once, in their feveral departments, the or- 
 naments of this town ; and the great Eraf- 
 mus is honoured with a monument in the 
 Cathedral, upon the fpot that contains his 
 aflies. In addition to thofe diftinctions, ic 
 claims the merit of having invented paper 
 in the year 1417. 
 
 I took a walk in the evening through 
 the different parts of the town, which are 
 connected by a bridge over the Rhine. The 
 {hops appeared abundant in commodities : 
 every one active in his occupation, and con- 
 tent with his condition. It was fun-fet 
 when I returned from my walk ; and I 
 N 3 found
 
 iSz LETTER XXXVI. 
 
 found the {hops fhut, and the families 
 feated upon benches at the doors of their 
 houfes. Here they enjoy the cool breeze 
 of the evening, and relax from the fa- 
 tigues of the day in cheerful converfation. 
 I found this the cafe throughout all quar- 
 ters of the town ; and I teemed to myfelf 
 paffing through a faloon, the company in 
 which was ranged in the higheH order on 
 both fides. This favours ftrongly of ancient 
 and uncorrupt fimplicity. Goldfmith has 
 drawn the picture of it in his " Deferted 
 Village." I had the images in my mind 
 before I faw Bade, and was the more gra- 
 tified in the revival of them, than I mould 
 have been by the firft impreffion. Surely 
 the nobleft effect of the Mufe is to learn to 
 appreciate nature ; and that Poetry is of the 
 higheft character, which conveys the faith- 
 fulleft images of unadulterated life. It is 
 on this principle that I confider Thomfon 
 and Goldfmith, as the oracles of genuine 
 poetry, and the very bed inftructors of mo- 
 ral
 
 LETTER xxxvn, 183 
 
 ral fentiiiient. What volumes of verfe have 
 been written with ufelefs elaboration ! 
 
 41 To me more dear, congenial to my heart, 
 *' One native charm, than all theglofs of ar^" 
 
 LETTER xxxvit. 
 * 
 
 Berne, June rz, 1791. 
 
 E drefs of the women -at Bafle was 
 very fingulaf. Their hair was comb- 
 ed fmooth back from the forehead bound 
 at the crown with a fillet and brought be- 
 hind into two plaits of confiderable length. 
 Thefe are further lengthened by black rib- 
 bons appended to them, which descend al- 
 moft to their heels. Their countenances, 
 without much beauty, were very pleafant 
 and cheerful. They appeared very affable 
 and unreferved. The generality of them 
 drefs in black. This I had at firft fuppofed 
 to be particular to the Black Forefters, but 
 I find it is not confined to them ; and that 
 N 4 the
 
 i8* LETTER XXXVII. 
 
 the univerfality of this ufage originates in 
 oeconomical reafons. The fliort petticoats 
 fo much the favourite of the Hollandoife 
 is here worn with much greater advantage; 
 and difcovers a well-fhaped leg, ufually a- 
 dorned with a fcarlet ftocking, forming in 
 the opinion of the females of Bade a fine 
 contrail to \hzfombre fliades of their accuf- 
 tomed habit. 
 
 I cannot difmifs the article of Bafle, with- 
 out afiuring you, that I was never more 
 pleafed \vith a place which pretends to fo 
 little. It owes all its beauties to nature and 
 to induftry. Its only ornaments are, the 
 landfcapes which furround it, and the fimple 
 manners of thofe who inhabit it. Men, 
 women, and children, all appeared engaged 
 in the common caufe of enriching its mar- 
 kets, and fupporting its commerce. Here 
 are no paftimes for the gay, no indulgences 
 for the vicious : but the heart which can 
 tafte of purer pleafures, and rejoice ia the 
 felicity of the human race, may here receive 
 
 no
 
 LETTER XXXVII. ,85 
 
 no common gratification, in contemplating 
 a virtuous, a united, and a happy people. 
 
 We left Bafle in the morning of the I ith, 
 and have arrived at Berne, after a journey 
 of two days. I will endeavour to give you 
 a faint fketch of the country through which 
 we have pafled : but eloquent indeed muft 
 be that pen, and animated that pencil, 
 which can do adequate jufiice to fuch fcenes 
 of pre-eminent beauty. As we left Bafle, 
 we gradually entered upon a mountainous 
 country, with the Rhine flowing to the left 
 of us. The road continued tolerable, ex- 
 cepting that in different parts it was fcat- 
 tered with loofe and inconvenient fragments 
 of ftone. The courfe is ferpentine, for the 
 facility of afcent ; and this gives a greater 
 fcope for variety in the different landfcapes 
 that prefent themfelves. 
 
 At Lieftal, where we refted during the 
 heat of the day, the mountains appeared to 
 gather round us. I was induced, by the 
 fingular appearance of one of thefe, to 
 
 make
 
 i86 LETTER XXXVII. 
 
 make an ineffectual attempt at reaching ite 
 fummit, by catching at the roots, fhrubs,, 
 and mafles of (lone which covered its fur- 
 face. From Lieftal we entered upon a 
 route which exhibited to our eyes the 
 grandeft pictures imaginable. Mountains 
 piled on mountains feemed to inclofe us 
 on all hands. Thefe were of various forms 
 and complexions. Some rofc in conical 
 beauty ; others prefented afpets more rude 
 and majeftic. Some were clothed with 
 verdure ; others with dufky umbrage ; and 
 others, difplaying their bofoms of naked 
 flint, feemed to fet vegetation and culture 
 at defiance. The road in many parts pierces 
 thefe rocks j among which, as you pafs, you 
 hear the roar pf waters defcending from 
 precipice to precipice ; and trace, among the 
 ftupendous fcenery, the hut that protects 
 the peafant from the ftorm. The approach 
 of Bieftal pafles over a mountain, efteemed 
 a league in afcent. The entrance to this 
 place was particularly finking. On our 
 
 right,
 
 LETTER XXXVII. ,87 
 
 right, were mountains of uncouth form and 
 prodigious height on our left, vallies 
 clothed with verdure, and fcattered with 
 human habitations. It was dufk when we 
 entered, and the fun had given place to the 
 fofter {hades of twilight. 
 
 This morning we left Bieftal, and palled 
 through Soleure to Berne. The fcenery in- 
 creafed in beauty and magnificence as we 
 advanced. Soleure is a town of very plea- 
 fant appearance, and the Church is a very 
 elegant building. This place is the capital 
 of the Canton which bears its name ; is of 
 the Catholic religion, and the ordinary re- 
 fidence of the French ambaflador to the 
 Helvetic Union. It being Sunday, all the 
 villagers and inhabitants of the town were 
 parading in groups, with their fhort cloaths 
 and their fcarlet (lockings. At the table 
 d'hote there were many Emigrants; but 
 no articles of intelligence tranfpired. Our 
 object was to reach Berne in the evening, 
 which we. effected ; and the neceffity of 
 
 fome
 
 ,88 LETTER XXXVIII. 
 
 fome repofe, muft plead my excufe for 
 withdrawing myfelf thus abruptly from your 
 fociety. 
 
 LETTER XXXVIII. 
 
 Geneva, June 17, 1791. 
 
 AT-MIE night of our arrival at Berne we 
 fupped at the table d'hote, and met 
 fome agreeable company. Among others, 
 was a Frenchman, who appeared a well- 
 bred man. We afked him fome queftions 
 refpecting Berne. He pictured it in moft 
 deplorable colours. " Ah mon Dieu ! tout 
 ** eft tranquille ici : il n'y a point de fpec- 
 " tacles, ni de caffe, ni de fociete." His 
 countenance interpreted very fully the ca- 
 lamitous fituation in which he found him- 
 felf. " Je me mourai !" was his conclufion. 
 He was particularly complimentary upon 
 the Englifh nation as a nation of fplendor 
 
 and
 
 LETTER XXXVIil. ,89 
 
 and amufements. A On y trouve tant de 
 " belles chofes," faid he j and then began 
 enumerating Bath, Vauxhall, &c. I could 
 not help reflecting on this principle, which 
 feems to enter fo univerfally into the cha- 
 racter of a Frenchman. This man was, to 
 appearance, a well-educated man at leafl 
 upon the fyftem of French Education ; and 
 he was an exile from his country : yet the 
 gout for amufements (till continued to pre- 
 vail over every other feeling ; and the Re- 
 volution of his country, appeared to him 
 only fo far inconvenient, as it had robbed 
 him of his amufements and his rank. 
 
 The fituation of Berne is extremely fine. 
 The fcenery around it is indeed magnificent* 
 The town is almoft encircled by the river 
 Aar ; the houfes are remarkably well built 
 with Arcades ; and the utmoft neatnefs is 
 kept up in every quarter. Berne is not 
 entirely without its amufements. Thefe are 
 principally the pleafures of the Prome- 
 nade ; and perhaps no city in Europe can 
 
 boaft
 
 ige LETTER XXXVIII. 
 
 boaft a terrace whofe view commands a 
 more fublime collection of natural objects. 
 Our table d'hote was enlivened, the day 
 after our arrival, by a political difputation 
 upon the interefts of Europe ; and it was 
 warmly contended, a Vunanlmc^ that Eng- 
 land fhould unite with/ Spain, and ftrike a 
 blow at the Emprefs of RuiTia. 
 
 We encountered at table, in the evening, 
 one of thofe inquifitive characters who of- 
 fer no fmall annoyance to ftrangers. He 
 was a man of a certain age, but of a moft 
 voluble tongue. He attacked us the mo- 
 ment we were feated, with a fucceflion of 
 interrogatories, of " What place we came 
 " from ? Which way we were going ? 
 " Whether we had made the tour of Swit- 
 " zerlarid, or whether we intended it :" 
 and then began, unafked, to give us Iiis 
 advice. He infifted upon it, we nuift make 
 an excurfion in the neighbourhood of 
 Berne that we muft not content ourfelves 
 with a direct route to Geneva and enu- 
 merated
 
 LETTER XXXVIII. , QI 
 
 ineratod a variety of objects to which we 
 ought to attend. Finding the anfwers we 
 gave, were not likely to filence him we be- 
 gan to be more laconic in our replies. This 
 induced a calm of a few minutes ; when, 
 turning his head from us, he broke out 
 aloud with, " D'ou venez-vous, Monfieur?" 
 to an officer at trfe further end of the room. 
 A Frenchman makes great allowance for 
 frivolous enquiry The officer replied with 
 the utmoft readinefs to this firft queftion, 
 and to thofe which fucceeded; and thus 
 we became perfectly acquainted with his 
 hiftory. " Ou allez-vous ? Qnand par- 
 " tez-vous ? Etes-vous marie ? Madame 
 " doit etre malheureufe pendant votre ab- 
 " fence." Such was the nature of his at- 
 tack upon the officer. 
 
 I feared the arrival of fupper would 
 bring our affairs again into play : and it 
 happened juft as I had furmifed. He took 
 his chair by me, and renewed the charge, 
 with the fame perfevering curiofity, during 
 10 the
 
 J9 2 LETTER XXXVIII. 
 
 the whole of the fefiion. " Eh bien, vous 
 *' allez a Geneve. II faut, cependant, faire 
 " des petites tours ; ou bien, il faut revenir 
 " a Berne. Comptez-vous refter a Geneve? 
 " J'y feral en quinze jours-moi. Je ferai 
 " mortifie de ne pas vous trouver." Such 
 were the perfecutions I experienced during 
 fupper. Fortunately for me, he recollected 
 that a gentleman, \vho fat cppofite him, 
 had not yet been catechized. He opened 
 the trenches againft him, and drew out in 
 a few feconds the whole of his hiftory. 
 We took advantage of this diverfion made 
 in our favour, and withdrew ourfeives 
 from his farther importunities. I had HOT 
 race full in my recollection, during this 
 adventure ; and when he opened his at- 
 tack upon me, with " Comment vous va- 
 " t-il, mon cher ?" I thought I heard, 
 " Quid agis dulciffime rerum ?" 
 
 We left Berne the following morning ; 
 
 and dining at the charming town of Morat, 
 
 paffed in the evening to Paliere; where we 
 
 3 had
 
 LETTER xxxvm. 193 
 
 had fome difficulty to find accommodations 
 fuch were the numbers of French emU 
 grants who are on their way to Worms 
 and Manheim. From Paliere we proceeded 
 early the next day, and arrived by the fet- 
 ting of the fun at Laufanne. It was not 
 our intention to make any ftay at Laufanne ; 
 and as the journey from Bruftels had been 
 long and fatiguing, we haftened to the 
 place of our deftination. Repofing there- 
 fore the night at Laufanne, we made out 
 laft day's journey, in the fineft weather and 
 upon fuch a road as we have not before 
 witnefled, and arrived yeflerday evening 
 at Geneva. Here we fix for fome time 
 our refidence, and fuch is the general afpect 
 of the country, that I think we may promife 
 ourfelves a very agreeabley^/0;//*. 
 
 VpL. I,
 
 [ 194 3 
 
 LETTER XXXIX, 
 
 Geneva, June 28, I79'i 
 
 T HAVE now been near a fortnight at Ge- 
 neva, and have little more to report to you 
 than the ftate of the weather. Our mode 
 of life is perfectly reclufe. The fcenery 
 with which we are furrounded is the object 
 of our eonftant contemplation, and our 
 evenings are invariably pafled in fauntering 
 upon the banks of the Lake. 
 
 Here let me indulge for a moment in 
 drawing fome faint outline of this magni- 
 ficent country. The Lake, which in mag- 
 nitude is rivalled only by that of Conftance, 
 is fituated in a valley between the Alps and 
 the Jura, which runs through Switzerland 
 as the Appenine through Italy. The width 
 of this Lake is well proportioned to the 
 height of thofe mountains which inclofe it ; 
 
 and
 
 LETTER XXIX. 195 
 
 and the form of its bed is fuch as to give 
 fcope for all the varieties of fcenery. Its 
 waters are delicioufly pure, and exhibit- 
 particularly at their ifTue the moft enchant- 
 ing tranfparency. 
 
 At the head of this Lake is fituated Ville- 
 heuve, at the rectilinear diftance of fifteen 
 leagues. Along the banks of the Lake, on 
 either fide* are fcattered towns and villages^ 
 whofe magnitude is fo reduced by the ftu- 
 pendous mountains which tower behind 
 them, that they appear but clufters of di- 
 minutive, fheds, and fearceiy feem to rife 
 out of the waters. The mountains of which 
 I fpeak, are thofe which ftand on the fide 
 of Savoy, and form a part of the Alps. 
 Thefe prefent a very noble range of bold 
 and majeftic objects : their forms, their 
 magnitude, .and their afpect, have every 
 variety neceflary to the harmony of the 
 fcene. The grand Saleve is the firft in 
 order, proceeding from Geneva, which it 
 flanks. This is a mountain of no pre-emi-* 
 0*2 nent
 
 196 LETTER XXXIX. 
 
 nent height. Its furface is covered with 
 an agreeable verdure, and fcattered with 
 fome cottages in thofe declivities which ap- 
 proach the town. Its fummit exhibits the 
 form of a wedge whofe angle is rounded 
 off. Next to this ftands the Petit Saleve, 
 which bears a more pointed form, and 
 whofe roots approach more nearly the bor- 
 ders of the Lake. The Mole rifes next- 
 of a very dufky hue, and conical figure, 
 which contrails well with the long and uni- 
 form appearance of the Voifons (landing 
 beyond it. The real figure of the Mole is 
 faid to be by no means confonant with its 
 apparent form, which is indeed conveyed 
 to the eye in the ftric~t character of the cone. 
 Here are the mountains which ftand along 
 the fouthern bank of the Lake, and which 
 form to the imagination the rear-guard of 
 the Alps. 
 
 Behind thefe darker mafles are ranged 
 the Glaciers, which exhibit through the in- 
 ter flices of the former their lucid fummits. 
 
 This
 
 LETTER XXXIX. 197 
 
 This chain of icy fubftances prefents to the 
 eye no uniform appearance : in fome of 
 ks parts are glafly promontories difcovered, 
 fhooting their filver points into the clouds. 
 Thefe are known by the name of Aiguilles^ 
 from the figure they reprefent. In others 
 the blended fnows and ice are fwelled into 
 unequal mafles, and exhibit different con- 
 figurations of the moft tranfparent materials. 
 Parent of all the Mont Blanc ftands 
 clothed in a robe of the pureft white, and 
 appears indeed fovereign of the furround- 
 ing fcenes. The fummit of this mountain 
 rifes much above the reft ; and, though by 
 no means fo in reality, has the appearance of 
 a conical figure rounded at its point. Such is 
 the outline of thofe objects which form the 
 back-ground of this majeflic pifture ; and 
 the foftened light which beams at the fetting 
 of the fun, paints them to the eye in all 
 the chafteft colouring which fancy ever 
 imagined. 
 
 o 3 The
 
 j 9 8 LET T E R XXXIX. 
 
 The Rhone uTues from the Lake at Ge- 
 neva. This noble river takes its courfe 
 through the town, and its fleep waters ex- 
 hibit a colouring of the richeft blue. The 
 Arve, rolling down its torrent from the 
 fnowy Alps, forms its junction with the 
 Rhone in the vicinity of Geneva ; and at an 
 angle, which occafions great turbulence to 
 the commixing waters. Our houfe is fitu- 
 ated at fome little diftance frdm the town, 
 and our communication with it is not likely 
 to be great. It participates, in common 
 with all the flates of Europe, of that poli- 
 tical ferment to which France has given 
 birth ; and, though the ariftocratic party ad- 
 minifter the government at prefent, they are 
 not without apprehenfions from the refllefs 
 activity of their democratic rivals.
 
 [ J 99 
 
 LETTER XL. 
 
 Geneva, July 12, 1791. 
 
 QINCE I laft wrote, very important intel- 
 ligence has tranfpired. The news of 
 the King's flight was very foon conveyed to 
 this place, and every precaution was taken to 
 prevent its operating any mifchief in this 
 little republic. All the avenues were befet 
 with .guards, to prevent a Granger's pafling 
 the territory ; and patroles of horfe paraded 
 the whole of the night. I heard fome pri- 
 vate letters from Paris read, which an- 
 nounced the moft perfect unconcern, on the 
 part of the Parifians, at the departure of 
 their king. The converfation in the public 
 places of refort was faid to have been, " Le 
 " roi a pris la fuite." -" Eh bien !" faid the 
 reft, " on s'en pafiera." 
 
 o 4 This
 
 2co L E T T E R XL, 
 
 This event, and the fubfequent aired, 
 were varioufly received here, and in the 
 Pah de Vaud. Many of the Genevefe af- 
 fembied evsry evening upon the prome- 
 nades, comparing the feparate accounts 
 which each ho/' privately received, as many 
 had fons, couims, or nephews in the na- 
 tional guard of Paris.. " Le roi eft parti," 
 laid one ;" " Tant mieux," faid an old de- 
 mocrat, " on fera moins embarraffe." The 
 evening after the retaking of the king, the 
 promenade was in fmgular commotion ; 
 and the people were divided by fentiments 
 of joy and iqrrow. f On 1'a repri," faid 
 one " Tant pis pour eux," faid another 
 " Apparemment on lui tranchera la tete,'* 
 faid a third. Such were the remarks upon 
 the promenades of Geneva at this event. 
 
 At Laufanne, I underftood, that political 
 fentiment exprefled itfelf in a more public 
 manner. The news of the king's efcape 
 occafioned fo great joy at this lafl place, that 
 the ajriftocrates who compofe by far the 
 
 majority
 
 LETTER XL. 2O i 
 
 majority indulged themfelves in public il- 
 luminations. This triumph was however 
 to undergo a mortification : the king was 
 arrefted, and the news was not long in 
 making its way to Laufanne. The demo- 
 crates would not lofe fo favourable an op- 
 portunity 'of difturbing their antagonifts; 
 they illuminated in their turn, and had the 
 advantage of the laugh on their fide. 
 
 I have mentioned the promenades at 
 Geneva: they merit indeed more than a 
 fimple notice, at lead thofe which are with- 
 in the walls of the town. But as the gates 
 are fhut * irrevocably at half paft eight 
 o'clock a time at which one fcarcely be- 
 gins to find the air fufficiently cool for re- 
 fpiration I am obliged to confine myfelf 
 to thofe walks which lie without the gates. 
 Thefe are frequented of an evening by large 
 companies, with whom I am become in 
 fome degree familiarized, without the affift- 
 ance of letters recommendatory. The grand 
 
 * The (hutting of the gates is regulated by the hour of 
 funfet. 
 
 enquiry
 
 202 LETTER XL. 
 
 enquiry on the fubjecT: of politics relates to 
 Paine and Pierce by which they mean 
 Price a name they cannot pronounce. I 
 told them all that I knew about them, i. c. 
 juft fo much as they knew, and all the 
 world knew before that they were reputed 
 champions of no mean flrength in the field 
 of politics. 
 
 Of this grcupe is a veteran, lefs diftin- 
 guifhed by his own character than by a very 
 elegant daughter, whofe perfonal charms 
 and brilliant converfation have given her 
 much celebrity. Expert in every fubjedt 
 of general intereft, fhe is more particularly 
 attached to political difcuffion, and has, by 
 her beauty and her principles, acquired the 
 appellation of " La belle democrate." She 
 is very fond of enquiring into the character 
 of the Englifh ladies, for whom fhe has the 
 higheft refpect. She wished to know, what 
 particular fyftem of politics the Englifh wo- 
 men now defended. I told her, the ladies 
 with us feldom interfered in political dif- 
 cuffion.
 
 L E T T E R XL. 203 
 
 cuiion. She took it for a rebuke c< Ap- 
 f< paramment Monfieur penfe que les dames 
 " ne doivent pas fe meler de la politique." 
 <c Pardonnez moi," faid I. Madamoifelle 
 is often attended upon the promenade by 
 a German, who appears deeply captivated 
 with her 'charms, without however being 
 fortunate enough to excite a reciprocal paf- 
 fion. u II ne fait que parler de la meta- 
 " phyfique," fays fhe- " L'amour ne 
 " s'ouvre pas ordinairement comme ca." 
 His accent offends her ear. " The Germans 
 " murder our language," fhe fays, " more 
 * c than any people in Europe," I obferved to 
 her, that theEnglifh feldom attained to a juft- 
 nefs of pronunciation. " J'en conviens," 
 fays fhe, " mais les Allemands travaillent a 
 " prononcer notre langue, au lieu que vous 
 " autres ne vous en embarraffez point ; et 
 * c j'aime plutot celui qui ne la prononce pas, 
 f ' que celui qui la prononce mal."
 
 [ 204 j 
 
 LETTER XLI. 
 
 Geneva, July 15, 1791. 
 
 HE drefs of the Genevefe is fashioned 
 * upon a very agreeable model. The 
 generality of females of every condition 
 are far removed from ficklinefs or de- 
 formity, and thofe of the higher clafles 
 are pleafing in their perfons and their man- 
 ners. Rouffeau has indeed charged them 
 with want of parental tendernefs, in fend- 
 ing their infants to be nurfed, or rather ne- 
 gledted, by the inhabitants of the moun- 
 tains : but in this, as in other refpects, 
 modern Geneva bears little refemblance to 
 the ancient. 
 
 The cuftom of taking agoute, correfpond- 
 
 ing to our tea, I have not feen elfewhere ; 
 
 though I underftand it is not peculiar to 
 
 this place. I was invited to one of thofe 
 
 3 repafts
 
 LETTER XLI. 205 
 
 repafts by the old patriot, and was furprized 
 to find fuch variety of eatables at fuch an. 
 hour; it was five o'clock in the afternoon. 
 The moment the company were feated, 
 bafkets of bread were handed about j thefe 
 were followed by anchovies, and tarts of 
 an extraordinary (ize. In the mean time, 
 coffee, tea, wine, liqueurs, &c. were put in, 
 circulation ; in fo much that I, who had but 
 juft rifen from dinner, made a very con- 
 temptible figure amongft them. *' II mg 
 " femble que les Anglois mangent peu," 
 faid one of the company. I replied in the 
 affirmative, to avoid being further folicite& 
 ** Us s'en tiennent beaucoup a leur rojbeef? 
 exclaimed another of the party, who had 
 deftroyed a hoft of eatables. At the found 
 ofro/beef, Monf. A. fecmed fuddenly flruekj 
 and apologizing for not having provided 
 ro/beeffor my goitte, infifted upon my con* 
 fenting to dine with him at noon on the 
 following Sunday. I waited on him the 
 day appointed, and was much amufed with 
 
 my
 
 2 o6 LETTER XLI. 
 
 my entertainment. A variety of articles 
 were ferved up ; and I was urged to feaft 
 upon foup, dimes of- rice, &c. till I had 
 quite loft fight of the grand defideratum. 
 At length, when the defert Ihould have 
 come, enters a piece of roaft beef of an im- 
 moderate fize. It was diverting to fee the 
 buftle it created among the company, whofe 
 eyes were fixed alternately on me and the 
 beef^ and each appeared to wait with anxi- 
 ous cUriofity the havoc my appetite was 
 to make upon this huge mafs of flefh. No- 
 thing but the very marked intention of gra- 
 tifying me, prevented my refifting their in- 
 treaties in toto : and their difappointment 
 was fo great at the very fmall progrefsl made, 
 that I queftion if Monfieur will ever think 
 it worth his while to confult again the pa- 
 late of an Englifhman. 
 
 The great feftivities here are on the Sun- 
 day ; and, notwithftanding the ftritt devo- 
 tion which prevails during three parts of 
 the day, the evening is celebrated with the 
 
 moll
 
 LETTER XLI. 207 
 
 moft cheerful gaieties. The principal ainule- 
 ment is upon the Lake, which is ufually 
 covered with pleafure-bosts, and affords a 
 very delightful fpectacle. Some of thefe 
 boats are of a very confiderahle fize, and are 
 decorated -with -very brilliant ornaments, 
 In thefe they amufe themfelves with mufic, 
 dancing, and playing off fireworks prin- 
 cipally thofe of a violent explofion. The 
 reverberation of this, from the vaft chain? 
 of mountains which furround the Lake, re"- 
 fembles very accurately the rolling of thun- 
 der, and is liftened to with the moft eager 
 attention. 
 
 This little republic is not without its pa-* 
 litical ferments. It fKo'uld Teem, from their 
 numerous precautions, that fome great dan- 
 ger was apprehended. The orders of the 
 Syndics are unufually ftrict. The vigilance 
 of the magiftrates and the bourgeois-^guard 
 is unremitting. For greater fecurity, the 
 gate, which formerly faced the Swifs quar- 
 ter, has been within thefe two or three 
 i weeks,
 
 *og LETTER XL!. 
 
 Weeks, with great labour and expence, turn- 
 ed towards the French territory : whence, 
 it ftiould feem, that hoftilides were even- 
 tually expected. During the whole affair 
 of the king's flight, every fpecies of cau- 
 tion was employed j and the circumfpec- 
 tion which this government thought ne- 
 ceflary] to exercife on that occafion, con- 
 vinces me that they conceive much of their 
 own fecurity to depend upon the particular 
 turn of French affairs. Their fortifications 
 are undergoing repair; the inhabitants have 
 lately been inrolled ; and all the meafures 
 which vigilance can dictate, are now put in 
 practice, with a view to guard againft the 
 defigns of the democratic minority.
 
 { 2D 9 ] 
 
 LETTER XLIL 
 
 Geneva, July 15, 1791. 
 
 T RECEIVED yefterday a very high degree 
 * of entertainment, and am anxious to re- 
 port to you the journals of my proceedings. 
 Jt was, as you will recolkcl:., the commemo-!- 
 ration of the French revolution ; and, as 
 agreeable to a decree of the National Afiem- 
 bly, the day was to be celebrated throughout 
 France. Ferney, the ancient refidence of 
 Voltaire, was among the number of thofe 
 towns which announced an intention of ob- 
 ferving this anniverfary. I had for fome 
 time paft determined upon making a vifit 
 to Ferney, in order to view the manfion 
 once occupied by this illuftrious man ; and 
 my curiofity to witnefs this extraordinary 
 feftival, decided me to put my plan in exe- 
 cution on this day. I knew not the date of 
 the place; nor could for efee, whether my 
 perfon might be fafe among a number of 
 VOL. I, p , men.
 
 no LETTER XLTI. 
 
 men, aflembled to celebrate the orgies of 
 Liberty and Bacchus. I was unwilling 
 therefore to be a folitary gueft, and an order 
 of council had been iflued forbidding any 
 fubject of the Republic to be found at Fer- 
 ney during this feftival. I fhortly however 
 picked up an Englishman, of whom I had 
 fome flight knowledge; and who, though 
 profoundly ignorant of the language, had 
 as much curiofity as was neceflary for my 
 purpofe. We placed feverally a cockade in 
 our hats, and drove to Ferney. 
 
 The village wore a very gay appearance : 
 all the inhabitants, and many from the en- 
 virons, were parading in numerous parties, 
 drefled in all the trappings of their Sunday 
 wardrobes. Having found with fome dif- 
 ficulty a ftand for our whifkey and horfe, 
 we repaired to a part of the town, which 
 from the crowds aflembled there feemed to 
 be the place of rendezvous. We pafTed 
 through many ranks of fpectators, and came 
 to a large area, in the centre of which was 
 
 elevated
 
 LETTER XLII. an 
 
 elevated the national flandard, and the co- 
 lours infcribed with " Vivre libre, ou mou- 
 " rir," were dreaming in the air. This fpace 
 was not inclofed with any fixed barrier, but 
 preferved for the company by the National 
 guard ; who aded alternately as centinels, 
 and kept' the line unbroken by the fpeda- 
 tors. Within this area were two long ta- 
 bles, very nearly filled with company, and 
 two fmaller ones, occupied by felect parties. 
 At the head of the upper table fat the 
 Commandant ; and befide him, the lady 
 prefident. The reft were for the moft part 
 officers of the guard, or, what is the fame 
 thing, volunteers ; for the duties and the 
 honours are taken in rotation. I under- 
 ftood from fome of the attendants, that we 
 {hould find no difficulty in being admitted 
 to the table. I therefore applied to a very 
 genteel man, who was doing the duty of 
 centinel, for permiffion to fit at the table. 
 He aflured me, it would do them fingular 
 honour. We therefore took our feats, and 
 p 2 were
 
 212 LETTER XLTI. 
 
 were ferved with fome refrefhment upon 
 paying our quota. 
 
 The attention of the company was foon 
 drawn upon us ; and thofe neareft us at the 
 table were felicitous to recommend them- 
 felves by drinking our healths. A band of 
 military mufic regaled us during dinner. 
 This ended, proclamation was made for 
 filence : and the Commandant delivered an 
 addrefs upon the important advantages of 
 the revolution. After commenting with 
 fome warmth upon thefe, and recommend- 
 ing as efTential to their continuance, order 
 and obedience to the conftituted authori- 
 ties, he toafted the magiftrates, the national 
 aiTernbly, &c. Every tpaft wa.s dr^nk with 
 loud acclamations, and accompanied with the 
 mufic of fome popular air. When the 
 Commandant had got through the toafts of 
 office, he demanded filence, and begged 
 leave to drink, " A la fantee des Anglois, 
 " nos meilleurs amis." This was received 
 with the loudeil burfts of applaufe. It was 
 
 echoed
 
 LETTER XLU. 213 
 
 echoed from every quarter, and the mufic 
 ftru'ck up " 93 ira;" which was fung by the 
 greater part of the company. The nature 
 ef this toaft turned the eyes of all upon us ; 
 and as my companion was not linguift 
 enough to return the compliment, I mount- 
 ed the bench. " Silence le plus prbfondi^,"' 
 was called for on all hands ; and I pro- 
 claimed aloud, " A la fantee des Francois, 
 " fucces a la nouvelle conftitution, fondee 
 " fur des principes eternelltfs, comme na- 
 " turell'es." This had its efTed : mufic, : 
 fliouts, and fongs^ expreffed their fenfe of 
 gratitude : we were immediately handed 
 by an officer to the upper table, prefented 
 to the Lady Prefident, who invited us to the 
 ball. Ten thoufand courtefies were now* 
 {hewn us. They threw to the ground thd 
 burgundy we had purchafed, and gave us 
 in exchange fome of the firft quality. They 
 fpoke in terms of the warmeft regard of the 
 Englifh nation, whofe example they pretend- 
 ed only to follow ; and commended that 
 p 3 generofity,
 
 SH LETTER XLII. 
 
 generofity, which declined to take advan- 
 tage of their prefent detractions. 
 
 An officer now hurried us away to drink 
 coffee. I was glad of the opportunity of 
 being relieved from the fuperabundant ci- 
 vilities of the company. He conducted us 
 to a houfe where liqueurs, &c. were ferv- 
 ed up, and many patriotic fongs were fung 
 by the different Officers. My friend, who 
 was rather warmed by the burgundy and 
 liqueurs, than enlightened by the converfa- 
 tion, de fired me to exprefs to thefe French- 
 men the refpect he had for them : I inter- 
 preted his intentions, and all fhook hands 
 with him ihouting at the fame time, 
 " Bravo, le bon Anglois !" The liqueur was 
 forcible,, and the vivacity of the fongs ani- 
 mating : thefe had a mechanical effect up- 
 on the humours of my companion. He 
 defired me to affure thefe Frenchmen, that 
 he loved liberty as much as they did, and 
 that he had an eftate in England, but that 
 he would willingly facrifice it all for the fake 
 
 of
 
 LETTER XLII. 215 
 
 of liberty. I again became his interpreter, 
 and his hand was again demanded with a 
 repetition, in a ftill higher tone, of " Bravo, 
 le bon Anglois !" The afternoon was indeed 
 pafled in the greateft hilarity, and without 
 the lead infringement of decorum. Never 
 did I fee men whofe air, converfation, and 
 gefture difcovered more happinefs. They 
 harangued, they danced, and omitted no 
 poflible expreflion of gaiety. What parti- 
 cularly ftruck me in the midft of all this 
 enthufiafm was, that not a term of reproach 
 was ufed againft the king ; nor a fentiment 
 of revenge breathed againft thofe from 
 whofe yoke they had fo recently efcaped. 
 Their feelings feemed to be engrofled by the 
 fmgle confideration of their prefent felicity, 
 and not an evil paffion was fuffered to dif- 
 turb the ferenity of their pleafures. Upon 
 the whole, no feftival which had for its ob- 
 ject the commemoration of fuch an event, 
 could have been conducted with greater 
 harmony, propriety, and good order. 
 
 P 4 We
 
 216 LETTER XLIL 
 
 We contrived to withdraw ourfelves from- 
 the company at the approach of evening, 
 and made a vifit to Voltaire's houfe. This 
 was a gratification I could not refufe myfelf. 
 The fituation is fine - t in the houfe itfelf 
 there is nothing remarkable. We were 
 ihewn the apartment in which Voltaire ufu- 
 ally pafled his time. This is hung round 
 with the portraits of eminent men, and 
 adorned with the urn containing his hearty 
 which he bequeathed, or pretended to be- 
 queath> to this placet The church and- 
 theatre are flill in exiftence, but all around 
 proclaims the matter's fall. Upon returning 
 from Voltaire's villa, we found the gaieties 
 of the ball-room were commencing ; but,, 
 adopting the prudence of the " conviva- 
 " iatur," we entered our whifkey for Ge- 
 neva. As- we drove through the town, we 
 were received with fhouts, and waving of 
 hats. Thefe compliments we returned in 
 the bed manner we could ; and bade adieu 
 to Ferney, not a little fatisfied with the 
 adventurer of the day.
 
 LETTER XLIII. 
 
 Laufanne, July 20, 1791 . 
 
 BY a change of fyftem, our refidence at 
 Geneva was Shortened by two months, 
 and we are now at Laufanne or rather in 
 the environs, whkh are delicious beyond 
 compare. The fcenery wants indeed that 
 foftnefs and harmony whkh the Genevefe 
 territory pofleffes ; but then it has to boaft 
 magnificence, boldnefs, and variety. The 
 lioufe we inhabit, is in the village of Ouchy, 
 nearly a mile and half from the town. It is 
 fmall and ruftic, fituated within a dozen 
 yards of the Lake, and confronted by the 
 mountains of Savoy, and the rocks of Mil- 
 lerie. Since we have been here, the Lake 
 ^which is fubject to ebb and flow has 
 been more than once worked into a ftorm, 
 and rifen to a considerable height. This is 
 a phenomenon for the folution of which 
 
 jnany
 
 2i8 LETTER XLIU. 
 
 many hypothefes have been offered. That 
 moft approved is Mr. Bertrand's, who fup- 
 pofes, that eledric clouds elevate the waters 
 to various degrees of height, in proportion 
 to the quantity of the eledric fluid ; and 
 that the fubiequeut fall, or finking of the wa- 
 ters particularly in the narrow parts of 
 the Lake, where thefe fetches^ as they are 
 called, are moft violent occafions thefe 
 fudden ftorms. 
 
 Here is a good circulating library, and 
 gazettes of every kind. But Laufanne is 
 now fo much frequented by foreigners, and 
 particularly Englilh, that every thing pe- 
 culiar and original is extirpated. In com- 
 pliance with fafhion and intereft, every 
 thing is anglic'ifed ; and you may now have 
 the fatisfadion of .paying as much for the 
 hire of a horfe, a carriage, or a houfe, 
 as at the moft fplendid place of Englifh re- 
 fort. 
 
 Gibbon is the grand monarque of lite- 
 rature at Laufanne : I have feen, converfed, 
 
 and
 
 LETTER XLIII. 2,9, 
 
 and dined with him. Thefe are, I think, 
 the three requifites, in order to know fome- 
 thing of a man. His converfation is correct 
 and eloquent j his periods are meafured, 
 and his manner of delivering them folemn. 
 He appears rather inditing to an amanuen- 
 fis, than holding converfation with a ftran- 
 ger. But though he talks too oracularly, 
 he is at his table cheerful, frank, and convi- 
 vial. His hofpitalities are however not 
 ftrictly patriotic ; his predilection for the 
 Swifs is notorious ; and, as a love of pre- 
 eminence may not be clafled amongfl the 
 lead of his failings, he feems to have decided 
 well in the choice of his fociety. 
 
 The ftate of the weather here is remark- 
 ably fine, but hot to a degree of fuffocation. 
 We purpofe taking advantage of this part 
 of the feafon, and making in a few days a 
 viiit to the Glaciers of Chamouni. I have 
 now full in my recollection, the firft glimpfe 
 I caught of thofe wonderful regions. It 
 was on my way from Paliere to Laufanne, 
 
 and
 
 219 LETTER XLIII. 
 
 and within about a league of this latter place. 
 We had alighted from our carnage, while 
 the horfes afcended a hill j - and as we ap- 
 proached the fummit, one of the mod mag- 
 nificent fights in nature prefented itfelf on a 
 Hidden to our aftonifhed eyes : it was a dif- 
 tant view of the Glaciers; and the unufual 
 appearance they made, would not naffer me 
 to fuppofe that they were of a folider tex- 
 ture than the fleecy and tranfparent cloud ; 
 till the reports of thofe better acquainted 
 with the country, rectified the errors of an 
 indiftincT: vifion. It was at the clofe of the 
 day, and all the luflre of a fetting fun was 
 playing upon their fpotlefs fummits. The 
 fcenery was at once novel, and fublime. I 
 anticipate a thoufand pleafures in vifiting 
 thefe fmgular regions, where an external 
 conflict is kept up between heat and cold ; 
 and mountains of ice experience no fenfible 
 diminution from the fcorching rays of a fol- 
 ftitial fun* 3
 
 [ 22! ] 
 
 LETTER XLIV. 
 
 Laufanr.e, Aug. 10, 1791. 
 
 JAM now returned from a tour among 
 the Glaciers ; and what my recolle&ion, 
 aided by an occafional note made on the 
 way, can fupply, fhall now be penned 
 down for your amufement. It was on 
 Thurfday, July 28, that we left Laufanne on 
 this expedition. We compofed together a 
 party of feven, not including fervants. The 
 morning of the 2gth, we left Geneva, at an 
 early hour ; and croflfmg the brook at 
 Chefne, little more than a mile from the 
 town of Geneva, we entered the territory 
 of Savoy. The road to Bonneville, the 
 town where we firft halted, became gra- 
 dually mountainous, and we at length found 
 purfelves at the foot of the Mole. Of this 
 mountain I have before remarked, that its 
 
 appearance
 
 222 LETTER XLIV. 
 
 appearance from Geneva prefents a conical 
 form ; but this vaniflied as we approached : 
 and, agreeable to the teftimony of Mr. Sauf- 
 fure, fome who have made an expedition 
 to Bonneville in order to examine the Mole, 
 have returned without feeing it having 
 miftaken for it fome other mountain whofc 
 figure refembled moft nearly the form under 
 which this appears at a diftance. We began, 
 in this part of our journey, to enter the land 
 of fprings, and the heat being immoderate, 
 often regaled ourfelves with draughts from 
 thefe icy waters. We were drefled in the 
 lighteft clothing, yet fuffered very much 
 from the fcorching rays of the fun, and 
 their reflection from the fides of the moun- 
 tains. We took fome refrefliment at Bon- 
 neville, and found melter there for fome 
 hours from the fervors of the day. I ftrolled 
 to the church for amufement, and found it 
 not behind its fellows in faintly dignity. 
 Many cafkets were placed upon the different 
 altars, containing moft unqiieftlonaUe frag- 
 jo ments
 
 LETTER XLIV. ^23 
 
 ments of ancient worthies. I tranfcribed 
 from one of thefe precious repofitories the 
 following infcription I leave the Monk who 
 wrote it, to defend the purity of its concords. 
 " Reliquias Sanclae Vincentice rite cognitas 
 " in hoc capfulo inclufas generation! fide- 
 *' Hum Bonopolis in facello S d Petri exponi 
 " permittuntur." 
 
 We left Bonneville after repofing two or 
 three hours, and pafled by a very fmgular 
 and romantic route to Salenche. Every pot- 
 fible diverfity of fcenery is to be found in 
 this latter ftage. Springs and cafcades iflue 
 from the roots of the rocks which inclofe the 
 track, or fcatter their waters down the (helv- 
 ing fides. The heat raged unabated, till 
 the approach to Salenche gave us a diftant 
 view of the Glaciers, whofe icy fummits af- 
 forded to the imagination at lead fome 
 relief. Salenche terminated our journey of 
 the day, and the evening was employed in 
 making the necefiary arrangements for our 
 conveyance to Chamouni, and viewing a 
 
 cafcade
 
 224- LETTER XLIV. 
 
 cafcade at fome little diftance j I know not 
 its name. The approach to it was over 
 rough and loofe ftones, fome of which lay fo 
 far under the water, that it was problemati- 
 cal whether the feet would alight upon them 
 or not. The cataract guihed from a hollow 
 rock, and was not without its grotefque or- 
 naments ; but when the difficulties of egrefs 
 and regrefs are calculated, the balance of 
 pleafure preponderates but little in its fa- 
 vour. 
 
 From a neceffity to which we were conr 
 drained to fubmit-- we were not provided with 
 (har-a-bancs on the following day till near 
 eleven o'clock. The char-a-banc is a fmall 
 ftrong carnage, in which two or three may 
 ride. Upon this you fit, with your feet 
 near the ground, reding upon a fwinging 
 board, and are drawn Tideways. It is fur- 
 prizing how faft the mules trot with thefe 
 vehicles at their heels, over fome of the 
 roughed and mod craggy tracks ; their feet 
 are at once Hire and invulnerable. Qur char- 
 a-bancs
 
 LETTER XLIV. 225 
 
 a-bancs halted at the village of Chede, and 
 we were very greatly entertained with a 
 view of the cafcade. The water appeared 
 to fall from a height of about 150 feet: as 
 it defcends it is very regularly fcattered, till 
 in the lower -part of its defcent it is diffipat- 
 ed in the gentleft diftillatiori. There was 
 much beauty in this fine cafcade, the effect 
 of which is not a little improved by the fur- 
 rounding fcenery. We had loft the hour 
 at which it is viewed to the greateft advan- 
 tage, the guides affuring us that had we 
 arrived fomewhat fooner, we fhould have 
 had the pleafure of feeing a rainbow 
 formed upon this trarifparent fliower. Re- 
 entering our char-a-bancs, we pafled over 
 a rpugh and broken track, blocked up in 
 fome parts by hideous mafles of rock, inter- 
 cepted in others by furious torrents that 
 poured from the heights, till we entered 
 upon a charming plain, in which was lituat- 
 ed St. Gervais. Here all was gaudy. 
 The Cure had given an entertainment : 
 VOL. i. Q mafs
 
 226 LETTER XLV. 
 
 mafs was juft over, and the villagers had 
 commenced their dance. We partook under 
 a tree of the refrefhments of the place, and 
 diverted ourfelves with feeing thefe peafants 
 perform the evolutions of the Valz. Short- 
 ly after this we entered the valley of Cha- 
 mouni, and arrived by five o'clock at the 
 foot of the Glacier de Boifons, 
 
 LETTER XLV. 
 
 / 
 
 /-TAKE Glacier de Boifons is the firft 
 to which ftrangers are generally intro- 
 duced. It makes fcarcely any figure from the 
 valley, (landing among many others of much 
 greater magnitude. Being feverally fur- 
 nifhed with a long (lick pointed with iron, 
 we afcended with eafe the lower part of the 
 mountain, which was covered with turf 
 and not very fteep ; but the approach to- 
 wards the ice was difficult, and the (licks 
 were eminently ufeful. Previous to our ar- 
 rival
 
 LETTER XLV. 227 
 
 rival upon the level with theMer-de-glace,we 
 were flopped by the guides in order to view 
 the magnificent profpect before us. It pre- 
 fented a range of icy pyramids of the pureft 
 complexion, and of the boldeft forms : we 
 were filled with aftonifhment at a fpectacle 
 which blended fo perfectly the grand and 
 the beautiful. 
 
 Arrived at the fummit of the mountain, 
 we entered upon the Glacier, but found great 
 difficulty in keeping our feet. The fun had 
 glofled the furface, and rendered it almoft 
 impoffible to tread with any degree of fecu- 
 rity. In paffing amongft thefe frozen tracts, 
 we came to many wide chafms and gulphs 
 of a formidable depth. We threw down 
 flakes of ice or ftones, whofe fall returned a 
 tremendous found. It was curious to ob- 
 ferve upon the higheft parts many malTes 
 of ftone ready to precipitate ; and upon the 
 mountains in defcending we faw fome of 
 dreadful bulk, which had at different times 
 been tumbled from the fummit of the Glacier. 
 0^ 2 Pierre
 
 228 LETTER XLV. 
 
 Pierre Balmat, our principal guide, related 
 to us, that he was witnefs to the fall of one 
 of the largeft of thefe ; and that it was at- 
 tended with the moft tremendous circum- 
 ftances. Indeed it appears extraordinary 
 that men fhould be found to inhabit regions, 
 where they are continually expofed to thefe 
 impending dangers. All the way as we de- 
 icended, we obferved the ruins of trees whofe 
 trunks had been fplit afunder, or their roots 
 torn from the ground, by the violence of 
 thefe Avalanches. We had fuffered but 
 little fatigue by the whole of this expedi- 
 tion ; the ice afforded us water of the 
 moft refrefhing coolnefs, and ftrawberries 
 abounded upon the mountain over which 
 we palled on leaving the ice. Evening was 
 now advancing : we re-entered our char- 
 a-bancs, and ihortly arrived at the Priory 
 of Chamouni. 
 
 Pierre Balmat undertook all the necefTary 
 arrangements for the bufmefs of Montan- 
 vert, which we were next to undertake ; 
 
 and
 
 LETTER XLV. 229 
 
 and the following morning, after an early 
 mafs, came to announce that all was in rea- 
 <linefs. We were but four who refolved oil 
 this expedition ; and we began to afcend the 
 mountain, having Pierre Balmat at our head, 
 and another ,guide bringing up the rear, each 
 charged with their portion of luggage, pro- 
 vifion, &c. The firil league, or hour as it is 
 called, was rugged, but not fteep. It is fo 
 much of the way as is ufually made by the 
 mules. We began from this boundary to 
 experience fome difficulties: the track, with- 
 out being lefs rugged, became more fteep ; 
 and we had occafionally to pafs along a pre- 
 cipice, which could not be regarded without 
 dizzinefs, and from which a falfe ftep muft 
 inevitably have terminated the journey. 
 The profpect before us annihilated all fenfe 
 of fear or fatigue ; and, after an arduous 
 ftruggle of about three hours, we gained the 
 fummit of the Montanverr, and had the 
 glorious Mer-de-glace full in view. 
 
 Q_ 3 We
 
 230 LETTER XLV. 
 
 We had afcended the mountain very lightly- 
 clad, and had been much opprefled by heat. 
 The tranfition was inftantaneous to a chil- 
 ling cold. The guides admonifhed us to 
 wrap ourfelves up fpeedily, as the air from 
 the Glacier might have a dangerous effect. 
 The Mer-de-glace refembles exactly a bil- 
 lowy expanfe of water frozen- while the 
 waves were yet fwelling with the majefty of 
 the florm. We^defcended by a rugged path 
 to the level of the ice ; and by a proper 
 union of courage and caution, afcended and 
 defcended over the vaft columns of ice which 
 covered this furface. Wherever the eye 
 ranged, nothing prefented itfelf but objects 
 of terrible grandeur; precipices, over 
 which hung the loofening rocks gulphs, 
 where the projected ftone could fcarcely find 
 a bottom. The whole valley appeared, as 
 ftill heaving with the .tempeft. Before I 
 quitted the ice, I caft a parting view at the 
 vaft range of rocky fpires and columns that 
 
 inclofed
 
 LETTER XLVI. 231 
 
 inclofed it. To the left, I faw the vale of 
 Chamouni far below ; and to the right, the 
 Glacier extended more than twenty leagues 
 among regions inacceffible to human dif- 
 covery. I felt an enthufiafm, which is re- 
 vived in the narration but which the moft 
 elaborate defcription is ill calculated to com- 
 municate, 
 
 LETTER XLVI. 
 
 y^vuR repaft was prepared by the induftri- 
 ous guides in a ihed known by the 
 name of Blair's Cabin. It is principally 
 formed by (tones, placed without cement 
 upon each other ; and the table is of one 
 fingle ftone. It was, as Balmat reported, 
 erected by a gentleman of the name of Blair, 
 in confequence of a violent hail-ftorm not 
 unufual in thefe regions from which him- 
 felf and his friends had fuffered. The tra- 
 veller owes Mr. Blair gratitude for this piece 
 of philanthropy. The interior of this cabin
 
 232 LETTER XLVI. 
 
 is covered with a regifter of names engraved 
 upon the walls by thofe who have vifited 
 thefe fcenes. 
 
 Nothing can fiarpafs the intrepidity aryl 
 zeal of the guides of Chamouni. There are 
 no dangers, however formidable, that they 
 will not face. When Mont Blanc was, 
 deemed inacceffible an opinion which pre- 
 vailed till within a few years the exertions 
 of the guides were neverthelefs indefatigable. 
 An accident at length unfolded what the la- 
 bour of years perhaps of ages- might have 
 explored in vain. The cafual wanderings 
 of Jacques Balmat to a cpnfiderable height 
 opened to him a track, by. which he deemed 
 the afcent practicable. This fecret he com- 
 municated to Paccard, who ha4 cured him 
 of an illnefs contracted on the mountain. 
 They agreed t,o make the attempt, in 
 which they perfectly fucceeded Aug. 1786. 
 Upon thisM.Sau{rure,whofe long refearches 
 in that particular line had led him to offer 
 rewards for any difcoveries of this nature, 
 
 repaired
 
 LETTER XLVI. 23J 
 
 repaired to Chamouni the following year ; 
 and, with eighteen guides furniihed with a 
 tent, provifions, and inftruments of obferva- 
 lion, afcended, with unparalleled hardihood 
 and extreme danger, Mont Blanc Aug. 1787. 
 Having finifhed our repaft, and allowed 
 due time for our guides to refrefli them- 
 felves, we began to defcend. The begin- 
 ning of the defcent was not accompanied 
 with any particular difficulties : but the lat- 
 ter part, which purfued a track different 
 from that by which, we afcended, was fteep 
 and hazardous. We were occafionally 
 ilartled by the diftant rumbling of thpfe 
 Avalanches, which are (particularly during 
 the heats) detaching loofe mafles of ice or 
 ftone, and precipitating them with violent 
 explofion. Thefe mountains are not with- 
 out their luxuries. We were prefented in 
 different ftations of the defcent with ftraw- 
 berries and goats-milk of delicious flavour. 
 Thofe who have felt the heat can alone ima- 
 gine how grateful thefe refrefhments prov- 
 ed.
 
 234 LETTER XLVT. 
 
 ed. Having at length effected our defcenr, 
 we traverfed a valley through which flowed 
 the Arveron - t this, like all the bottoms in 
 the neighbourhood of thefe mountains, was 
 ftrcwed with thofe fragments of ftone, 
 which once occupied a higher fituation. Our 
 guide now conducted us along this uncouth 
 track to one of the nobleft objects in nature 
 the fource of the Arveron. It is a recefs 
 hollowed out by the hand of nature, and all 
 the colours that enrich it are of her own 
 pencilling. Imagine the openings cf a 
 mighty cavern fcooped in the centre and 
 over-arched by various mafles of ice in forms 
 the moft wild, yet the moft majeftic. 
 Picture to yourfelf the pureft tints, blending 
 into each other with the moft enchanting 
 foftnefs, and the moft regular gradation. 
 From the centre of this cave thus artfully 
 formed, thus fublimely coloured, imagine 
 a torrent iffuing with violence, #nd tu- 
 multuoufly rolling among mafles of rock, 
 which obftruct the channel and fpread its 
 2 waters
 
 LETTER XLVI. 335 
 
 waters into foam. If the picture be not 
 entire, throw into the canvas the furroilnding 
 fceneryj the vale of Chamouni decorat- 
 ed in all the charms of induftry and cul- 
 ture ; the hoary magnificence of the 
 Glaciers ; and the fombre majefty of thofe 
 flubborn rocks, which retain no trace 
 of vegetation : - let the fetting fun throw 
 his laft rays over this groupe ; and thoa 
 tell me, whether it be enthufiafm to clafs 
 this with the nobleft productions of nature. 
 J muft remark, from fome converfation 
 I had this day, that the Savoyards parti- 
 cipate thoie difcontents, which feem to have 
 become fo general in Europe. The yoke of 
 the Catholic church is a caufe of great diflatif- 
 faction, and they treat with ridicule the idea 
 of papal fupremacy. They fpeak of the 
 riches which the church amafles, as an un- 
 merited exaction from their labours ; and 
 even confider the difme^ or tithe, as a very 
 high price for occafional abfolution. This 
 I was rather fqrprized to hear : but there is 
 
 another
 
 2^6 LETT E R XLVI. 
 
 another and very ferious fubject of difcon- 
 tent, in the preference given by the court to 
 Piedmont, to the prejudice of Savoy. The 
 Savoyards affirm, that they are treated with 
 neglect; that their inferiority is marked 
 by an" exclufion from pofts of distinction 
 and emolument ; and that in all cafes where 
 honour, profit, or authority are annexed to 
 any places at the difpofal of the govern- 
 ment, they have the mortification to fee a 
 Piedmontefe preferred. The greateft fer- 
 ment prevails in thofe parts which border 
 on the lake, or conned with Geneva. The 
 frequent communications which thefe hav 
 with the inhabitants of the Pays de Vaud 
 many of whom are ftrongly inclined to 
 French principles have contributed to the 
 diffufion of that fpirit of revolt, which reigns 
 among them. At the mineral fprings of 
 Thonon and Evian there are occafional fetes, 
 and this keeps up a perpetual intercourfe 
 between the Savoyards and the inhabitants 
 of the other fide of the lake ; and $a ira 
 3 has
 
 LETTER XLVT. s 37 
 
 has been trumpeted at their feftive meetings 
 with no fmall fhare of applaufe. The clergy 
 in the neighbourhood of Chamouni are by 
 no means numerous ; at Salenche and its 
 environs they abound, and exhibit all the 
 marks of fovereign pride. 
 At firft entering Savoy, I was embar- 
 rafled to conceive how the land could be 
 divided ; as it difcovered no vifible parti- 
 tions. I was however told, that it is par- 
 celled out with great accuracy, and pre- 
 ferved fufficiently diftindT:, though in many 
 places by imaginary boundaries. Land is here 
 preferred to every other fpecies of property ; 
 each man is emulous of acquiring a portion ; 
 and fuch are the happy manners of the valley 
 a flick or ftone, the moft trifling mark 
 ferves to define the meum and tuum; and, 
 with few exceptions, his property is facred 
 from violation.
 
 T 
 
 LETTER XLVII. 
 
 HE evening after our defcent from 
 Montanvert, I amufed myfelf with 
 walking about in various parts of the val- 
 ley, and gazing at the different furrounding 
 objecls of magnificence. It was within a 
 quarter of an hour of fun-fet that rinding 
 myfelf fomewhat fatigued, I ftretched along 
 a bank, watching the decline of the fun- 
 now about to retire among the Glaciers. 
 The Aiguille de Midi, the Dome, and 
 Mont Blanc were at that time richly illu- 
 minated ; and I waited with anxious curio- 
 fity the iiTue. The rays of light gradually 
 pafied from the Dome and the Aiguille, till 
 the former was enveloped in fliadow, and 
 the points of the latter glittered only at the 
 extremities. All this time Mont Blanc pof- 
 fefTed a large portion of folar luftrc ; and, after 
 
 the
 
 LETTER XLVU. 239 
 
 the Aiguilles were enveloped in the gathering 
 fhades of evening, the rays of the parting 
 light flill refted on the fuperior mountain. 
 
 It was this day determined by four of us 
 to continue our expedition along the valley, 
 and vifit as much as mould be convenient 
 of this extraordinary country. We were 
 joined the following morning by two other 
 gentlemen, whofe intentions co-incided 
 \vith our own ; and under tb-j conduct of 
 Pierre Balmat, feverally mounted upoix 
 mules, we began at an early hour to afcend 
 the Col-de-Balme. This is a mountain 
 which bounds the valley of Chamouni, and 
 gver which is the fhorteft paffage into the 
 Pays de Valais. A more ufual, becaufe 
 more practicable track is over the Tete 
 Noire. The afcent of the Col-de-Balme is 
 attended with little difficulty. The greater 
 part is and all may be made upon mules. 
 The defcent is hideouily fteep; and, though 
 the track is fufficiently ferpentine, yet it is 
 not defcended without confiderable fatigue. 
 
 From
 
 4 o LETTER XLVII. 
 
 From the fummk of this mountain we eii- 
 joyed a very noble and extended view* 
 M. Sauflure calculates that it rifes 1181 
 toifes, or 7086 Englifh feet, above the level 
 of the Mediterranean. On completing our 
 defcent we found ourfelves in the valley of 
 Trent, fo called from a torrent of that 
 name which iffues from a contiguous Gla- 
 cier. On the higheft part of the Col-de- 
 Balme there is a ftone, defining the limits 
 of Savoy; and from this land-mark com- 
 mences the territory of Valais. We turned 
 a little into the valley of Trent, in order to 
 flop at the village of that name, and give 
 fome repofe to our mules. Our guide con- 
 ducted us to a fmall hut, where the good 
 folks did all in their power to entertain us. 
 They fucceeded better with the mules, 
 than with their riders ; for all the effufions 
 of honeft hofpitality could not atone for 
 the poverty of their fare. They fet before 
 us a dim of honey and fome bottles of 
 meagre and acid wine. 
 
 This
 
 LETTER XLVII. v 241 
 
 This village is very curioufly fituated, at 
 the bottom of immenfe and innumerable 
 mountains, and compofed of an handful of 
 diminutive huts. The largeft of thefe were 
 very little above the fize of an' ordinary ftye, 
 and conftru&ed in a very grotefque ftyle. 
 They refembled a kind of wooden box, fet 
 upon four beams, which are laid upon a 
 foundation of uncemented ftones; and upon 
 the roots are ftones placed, as a provifion 
 againft the violent winds, which are not un- 
 frequent in thefe mountainous climes. The 
 people did not appear unhealthy, nor did I 
 fee any goitrous perfons here. The flopes 
 of the mountains bore the marks of induftry 
 and fertility : all was fimple, and primitive ; 
 and we felt our infirmity, when we faw cur 
 guides devour as a luxury what revolted 
 our palates. The fhoes of our mules being 
 repaired, and their ftomachs replenifhed, 
 we, paffing from Trent over the Forclay, 
 arrived at St. Blanchier in the evening. 
 
 VOL. I, R
 
 LETTER XLVIII. 
 
 E paflage of the Forclay had nothing 
 in it either formidable, or difficult. 
 Wherever the track pafTes, which it did in 
 many places Upon the edge of a precipice, 
 the imagination was amufed with a flight 
 fence ; which was indeed rather a fecurity 
 againft fear, than a protection from danger. 
 The defcent was extremely rough, and 
 ftrewed with a multitude of large and loofe 
 ftones. It took us up nearly two hours to 
 defcend into the valley of Martigny. From 
 the Forclay we enjoyed a very fine view of 
 the city of Sion, the Mont St. Gothard, and 
 the Glaciers of Grindelwald. As our inten- 
 tion was to take Martigny in returning from 
 St. Bernard, we purfued a courfe to the 
 right from the Forclay ; this track defcribed 
 a fort of femi-eirde round a hollow vale 
 watered by a river, or rufhing torrent, over 
 
 which
 
 LETTER XLVIII. 243 
 
 clufters of trees hung in the moft ro- 
 mantic forms. 
 
 We fhortly after entered the valley of 
 Entremont. The road by which we pafled, 
 ran along the fteep declivities which flanked 
 the valley to the right ; and on either hand 
 of us were mountains of correfpondent 
 height and magnificence* The Drance a 
 very powerful torrent which takes its rife 
 from the Glaciers round St. Bernard rolls 
 down the valley with noify impetuofity. It 
 was between feven and eight o'clock when 
 we entered the village of St. Blanchier. Our 
 guides conducted us to a fpecies of Inn, 
 where we were to pafs the night. \Ve 
 found our landlady very untractable : all 
 our toute-fuites were coolly returned with 
 tmit-ci'Theures. We had not however in the 
 iflue, reafon to complain of any thing but 
 the pertinacity and dilatorinefs of our hoftefs; 
 for in her own good time, an excellent and 
 fmoaking fupper was introduced. Our night 
 patted well, and the morning found us fuf- 
 R a ficiently
 
 244 LETTER XLVIII. 
 
 ficiently recovered to refume our march. We 
 obtained feme bowls of lufcious milk of our 
 landlady, who began to improve upon us 
 by acquaintance ; and having mounted our 
 mules, we put ourfelves in motion for St. 
 Bernard. 
 
 Very foon after ifiuing from the village. <pf 
 St, Blanchier, we entered upon a part of 
 the valley of Entremont, beautiful beyond 
 defcription ; and this continued with little 
 variation to St. Rene',- a courfe of three 
 leagues. Between Martigny and St. Blan- 
 chier the whole fcenery was wild,; the 
 mountains rocky and barren,: and the tor- 
 rent below us obftructed by prodigions 
 mafies of ftone. On the contrary, from St. 
 Blanchier to St. Pierre all is fmooth, harmo- 
 nious, fruitful. The mountains are ranged 
 in the nobleft and moft beautiful forms, and 
 connected with the utrnoft regularity. Their 
 fides are clothed with a charming verdure 
 of various hues according to the different 
 fpecies of cultivation. The Drance rolls 
 
 along
 
 LETTER XLVIII. 245 
 
 along in one continued fheam of foam, and 
 fills the valley with its echoes. I thought,- 
 as I beheld thefe fcenes, that the fables of 
 Romance and the vifions of Arcadia were 
 more than realized to my fenfes, My ima- 
 gination feemed not to experience a want, 
 nor could I figure to myfelf one abfent 
 charm which could improve this wonderful 
 valley. All the varieties of nature were 
 here delicioufly blended. Here were view- 
 ed all the different fhades of verdure, and 
 every artful diftribution of culture. Add to 
 thefe, the finuous channel of the torrent, 
 its frothy furface, its hollow roar, and 
 then fay what is there left for poetry to feign ? 
 Between St. Blanchard and St. Pierre we 
 pafled two villages the firft of which is 
 Orfieres, the laft Liddes. As we entered the 
 firft of thefe, we pafled the Drance by a 
 wooden bridge. They appeared in this part 
 of the valley to be in a way of refinement. 
 Some few houfes were undergoing repairs, 
 and fitting up in what I prefume may have 
 R 3 been
 
 246 -LETTER XLVIII. 
 
 been the flile of acentury paft in the civilized 
 parts of the world ; and what may pafs for 
 modern tafte, in a valley, where the vifits of 
 the fun are but juft long enough for the 
 purpofes of exiftence. It appeared much 
 the falhion along this valley to confecrate 
 the houfes by pious infcriptions. I obferv- 
 ed upon many doors, which had been lately 
 painted, the names of faints infcribed, or 
 fome religious motto. Juft upon the part 
 where in a mercantile town would have 
 been advertifed the name and occupation 
 of the inhabitant, were infcribed on many 
 doors the three names j4fut-~M&ne~r- 
 Jofob. 
 
 We now pafied from Orfieres to Liddes, 
 having the Drance to our right. Liddes is 
 romantically fituated in the narrowed part 
 of the valley, the mountains of which ap~ 
 proach fo near each other as almoft to com- 
 prefs and entomb it. In patting through this 
 place, we overtook one of thofe good induk 
 trious Penitents who travel far for the be*> 
 
 nefit
 
 LETTER XLIX. 247 
 
 nefit of their fouls. The pious pilgrim was 
 in a garment refembling' that which honeft 
 Bimyan has defcribed his hero to have re- 
 ceived from one of \hzjhining ones. It was 
 variegated with the brighteft colours, adorn- 
 ed with {hells, mottoes, and portraits of 
 the moft fuccefsful interceflbrs in behalf of 
 thofe who praclife pilgrimage and pe- 
 nance. He bore a tall ftaff, his feet were 
 bare, that is to fay the upper parts, and 
 thus he was about to crofs the rugged flints 
 of St. Bernard ; in order to vifit the holy 
 fhrine of Loretto, and in the fpirit of an*. 
 tient fuperftition " to feek him dead who 
 lives in Paradife," 
 
 LETTER XLIX. 
 
 |T was about ten o'clock when we entered 
 
 the village of St. Pierre ; and, as the 
 
 Convent of St. Bernard was but three 
 
 kagues diftant from this place, we deter- 
 
 K 4 mined
 
 248 LETTER XL T X. 
 
 mined upon making ourvifit immediately, an4 
 returning to St. Pierre in the evening. We 
 requeued our hoftefs to prepare us a fupper. 
 The good woman talked of honey and goats- 
 milk ; we questioned her upon the articles 
 of bread and meat ; Die affured us that there 
 was neither butcher nor baker in the town, 
 but that me would fend up to the moun- 
 tains to kill a fheep for our accommodation. 
 It. was indeed our fate, wherever we flop- 
 ped, to fpread {laughter and devaftation. 
 We had fcarcely entered our quarters at St. 
 Blanchier, when the moft difmal fcreams 
 aflailed us from the hen-rooft. Scarcely 
 had we quitted St. Pierre, on our route to 
 St. Bernard, before we faw a remorfelefs 
 clown, deputed to that ferviceby our hoftefs, 
 fcaling the mountain, and feizing the af- 
 frighted and defencelefs fheep. We blufhed 
 for the diforders we had introduced into 
 thefe Arcadian regions, where all was inno- 
 cence- as in the age of Gold, and the peace- 
 ful reign of Saturn. Here the flocks feem- 
 3 ed
 
 LETTER XLIX. 249 
 
 qd proprietors of the mountains, and the, 
 wants of men were fatisfied without the ef- 
 fufion of blood ; here the woods appear- 
 ed facred to folitude and filence. 
 
 Where the rude axe with heaved ftroke 
 Was never heard the nymphs to daunt, 
 Or frighrthem from their hallowed haunt. 
 
 In leaving St. Pierre the track divides- 
 that to the left, opening into the Valforey; 
 that to the right, conducting to St. Bernard. 
 From ihefe oppofite directions iflue two 
 dreams, which are feverally denominated 
 from the Valforey and the St. Bernard; and 
 which uniting a little below, form that tor- 
 rent which pours along the valley of Entre- 
 mont. St. Pierre is the laft village of the 
 Valais in this route; and from this to the 
 Convent of St. Bernard, they eftimate three 
 leagues or hours. Soon after leaving 
 the village, we entered upon a coarfe and 
 rugged plain, ftrewed with fragments of 
 flone, which had been wafhed down from 
 
 the
 
 250 LETTER XLTX 
 
 the heights ; and from this we continued 
 to afcend over rocks of fh-apelefs afperity. 
 In pafllng thefe I was indebted to my mule, 
 whofe dexterity in running up the fteep de- 
 clivities excited my aftonifhment, and I 
 ought to add, my gratitude. The moft 
 provoking property of thefe animals is, 
 that they will always coaft upon the preci- 
 pice. I more than once laboured to force 
 my mule to abandon this dangerous fyftem, 
 but he taught me acquiefcence, by either 
 making a full ftop, or, if I perfiftcd, in be- 
 taking hirnfelf to a fit of kicking. I am 
 perfuaded, that no one ever reached thq 
 heights of St. Bernard in this mode of tra- 
 vel, without having learnt more of paffive 
 obedience and moral refignation, than he 
 would ever have acquired from Sir Robert 
 Filmer, or the Whole Duty of Man. 
 
 \Ve had now climbed about two leagues 
 and a half over a very rugged and flinty 
 track, difcovered rather by the induflry of 
 our guides and the recollection 6f our mules,
 
 LETTER XLIX. 251 
 
 than by any veftiges of former footfteps. 
 We at length crofled the torrent which takes 
 its rife a little above us, and now entered 
 upon the mod dreary and melancholy 
 fcenes. The mountains on every fide were 
 rugged and naked, except where the fnow 
 continued undiflblved the whole of the year, 
 nearly a quarter of a league. Before we reach- 
 ed the Convent, we pafled through a track of 
 fnow, many parts of which were more than a 
 foot deep. This fnow liquidates very {lowly : 
 it is a part of the mountain exptffed to the 
 north, and which enjoys but for a few mo- 
 ments the rays of the fun. A few years 
 pad it continued undiflblved the whole of 
 the fummer; and the pious fathers began 
 to feel alarm, left it fhould accumulate and 
 form a Glacier. 
 
 We arrived by three o'clock at the door 
 of the Convent. Our guide demanded ad- 
 mittance, when one of the order came to 
 the door, and invited us to enter and par- 
 take of the refrefhment of their " pauvre 
 
 hofpice."
 
 a 5 2 LETTER XLIX. 
 
 hofpice." He was indeed particularly forty 
 it fhould have been a day of penance, and 
 feared left the kitchen could not afford us 
 a fuitable repaft. He accompanied us over 
 the Convent, fhowed us the feveral apart- 
 ments, library, chapel, &c. We were 
 Jeated in a gloomy faloon, after due obfer- 
 vation of the rarities of the place ; and a 
 very frugal meal was ferved up, the. brother 
 of the order himfelf waiting upon us. \Ve 
 urged him to partake with us-?-he excufed 
 himfelf, by faying that he had dined at 
 their ufual hour of half paft ten. We en- 
 treated him not to ftand ; he refifted our 
 entreaties, by afluring us that it became 
 him, and fupplicating us to receive the 
 hofpitalities of the Convent " au nom da 
 ' Dieu"
 
 t 
 
 LETTER L. 
 
 I 
 
 UR venerable hoft had, in the interval 
 of preparation for dinner, conducted 
 us round the environs of the Convent, and 
 wretched indeed was the fcenery which fur- 
 rounded thefe pious fathers. The whole 
 mountain is of fo obdurate and untradable a 
 nature, that no art or labour can render it a 
 fubject of cultivation. There were two or 
 three fmall interfaces between the rocks, in 
 which thefe induftrious men had difpofed 
 fome mould imported from the foil of St. 
 Pierre ; by means of which with the 
 greateft difficulty they raife a few vege- 
 tables. The whole crop would have fcarce- 
 ly filled an ordinary plate : but elevated into 
 thefe regions of cold and folitude, they have 
 recourfe to any little expedient which may 
 occupy their hopes, and diflipate the ennui 
 of perpetual imprifonment. Theirs is indeed 
 
 a fate,
 
 254 L t T T E & t. 
 
 a fate, though felf-impofed, beyond the ri- 
 gors of the fevered punifhment. 
 
 From the cheerful ways of men 
 Cutoff, and for the book of knowlege fair 
 Prefenred with an univerfal blank 
 Of Nature's works, to them expunged and rafed. 
 
 The good father who performed the ho- 
 nours of the place, told us, that he had been 
 twelve years in this Convent j and, though 
 be was not in reality more than thirty years 
 of age, his countenance was fo haggard, fo 
 fallow, and fo fickly, that he appeared quite 
 a veteran. We afked him after the reft of 
 his comrades ; he faid, they were gone " fe 
 promener." It is diverting to hear of a 
 promenande, in regions where every ftep 
 leads to frefh dangers, and every change of 
 fcene is only an aggravation of horrors. He 
 fpoke of a journey to St. Pierre, as a boy 
 would of his holidays ; and made as much 
 of an excurfion to Martigny, as an Englifh- 
 man would of a trip to Newmarket.- 1 -" On 
 y va," faid he, " des fois pou$ s*egayer" 
 
 He
 
 L E T T E R L. 255 
 
 He fhewed us a fmall lake near the Convent, 
 in which they had attempted to keep fome 
 fifli; but the coldnefs of the water almoft 
 inftantly killed them. This lake is, he 
 faid, feldom free from ice, and was fro- 
 zen over laft year fo late as the month of 
 Auguft* Indeed the water he gave us to 
 mix with our wine was prodigiouily cold. 
 He afiured us it was two degrees below the 
 flandard of freezing. We were {hewn a 
 fpot upon which once flood a temple of no 
 mean fame, and the ground is ftill fcattered 
 with fragments of ftone. 
 
 It has been a fubjecl: of much difpute 
 among the learned what route Hannibal 
 purfued in crofting the Alps. An attempt 
 has been made from the evidence collected 
 on thefe Tuins, to fix this route in the paf- 
 fage over St. Bernard. This opinion is 
 not new, as M. SaufTure has remarked. It 
 wat prevalent in the time of Livy, and he 
 oppofes it as deftitute of foundation. Pliny 
 was afterwards of opinion, that he padccl 
 
 by
 
 256 L E T T E R L. 
 
 by the Mons Jovis, or Penninus. The lat- 
 ter of thefe appellations is referred to the 
 Celtic word Pen^ which fignifies high. M. 
 Sauffure fpeaks of numerous ex-votos, which 
 he has himfelf feen; the greater part of 
 which are of bronze, and bear infcribed, 
 fome, JO VI PENNING; others, JO VI 
 POENINO. From the latter of thefe it 
 has been concluded, that Hannibal erected 
 a temple here to the God of his country, in 
 teftimony of gratitude for the difcovery of 
 the paiTage. The ftatue of the Jupiter in 
 queftion, is proved to have been deftroyed 
 by Conftantine, from a pillar which now" 
 (lands at the foot of the mountain at St. 
 Pierre : it is infcribed to Conftantine the 
 younger. 
 
 St. Bernard was a Savoyard, and arch- 
 deacon of Aofte in the year 962. Since his 
 time the bofplce has been twice deftroyed 
 by fire. This inftitution was formerly very 
 opulent ; it pofiefTed lands in Sicily, Eng- 
 , the Low Countries, &c. of which it is 
 
 now
 
 L E T T E R L. 257 
 
 now pretty well fhorn. For Its fupport at 
 prefent, it is in great meafure indebted to 
 the alms collected in different parts of the 
 country. There is upon the mountain 
 near the Convent, a ftone, which marks the 
 boundary of -the Vallais on the one fide, 
 and the king cf Sardinia's eftates on the 
 other. The contiguity of this Convent to the 
 latter has produced fome altercations ; and, 
 at the beginning of this century, the king 
 of Sardinia difputed with the Swifs the right 
 of nominating a Provoft, or Head. This, 
 after much oppofition, was decided in favour 
 of the Swifs; who deemed it of importance, 
 that a foreign king fhould not nominate to 
 a benefice within their dominions, parti- 
 cularly to one fo important, as that of St. 
 Bernard has always been efteemed. 
 
 I know not the precife number of this fo- 
 ciety : they are all regular Auguftines : the 
 Provoft is elected by the Chapter, and con- 
 firmed by the Pope. He refides at Mar- 
 tigny. Next to him, is aPrieurClauftral, who 
 
 VOL. I. s ads
 
 i" 5 8 L E T T E R L. 
 
 acts as Prefident, and refides at the Convent. 
 Beildes thefe, there is a Sacriftan, who has 
 the care of the chapel ; a Cellerier, who 
 fuperintends the provifions ; a Clavandier, 
 who diftributes to travellers ; and an Infir- 
 mier, who takes charge of the Tick. Ufually 
 not more than eight or ten refide ; and 
 powerful muft be that motive which deter- 
 mines men, who can exift elfewhere, to fuch 
 a mode of life. 
 
 T 
 
 LETTER LL 
 
 HE principal duties of thefe Bernar- 
 dines fall in the feafon when fnows 
 and ftorms are moft frequent. At that time 
 they are conftantly in the habits of watch- 
 ing occafions for the exercife of their ho- 
 fpitable functions : a fervant, whom" they call 
 the Maronnier, goes before the travellers 
 who pafs this way during the perilous feafon, 
 with a large dog, peculiar to the mountain. 
 This dog is of an enormous fize, and of 
 
 fingular
 
 LETTER LI. 259 
 
 fingular fagacity. We faw two of them at 
 the Convent. Thefe dogs have the wonder- 
 ful talent of difcovering the way through 
 fogs and fnows, as alfo of fcenting out the 
 bodies of thofe who have perifhed by the 
 feverity of the cold. During the whole of 
 the winter, the brothers at the Convent are 
 employed in fearching for miferable objects 
 who have loft their way, or have been bu- 
 ried in the fnows, by the terrible avalanches 
 which happen in the fevere feafon. Each 
 is furniflied with a ftick pointed with iron. 
 With thefe they found, wherever the dogs 
 direct ; and by lhaking, chafing, and other 
 remedies, they frequently reftore thofe who 
 are fortunate enough to be found before 
 animation is totally extinct. 
 
 The height of this mountain is eftimated at 
 about 7542 Englifh feet perpendicular above 
 the level of the Mediterranean. The nature 
 of their fituation expofes them to a tnoufand 
 maladies. Indeed they looked like the fa- 
 mily of death. It was fo cold in the Convent, 
 that they requefted permifHon to kindle a 
 s 2 fire
 
 260 L E T T E R LI. 
 
 fire for us ; and yet it was the third of Au- 
 guft. I corifefs to you, I could not view 
 their fituation, nor hear the detail of their 
 fufTerings, without afking myfelf the 
 queftion, whether the fervices rendered 
 to fociety by thefe men were at all pro- 
 portioned to the pain with which they are 
 effected. I am of opinion that few would, 
 in modern days, undertake a pilgrimage 
 over St. Bernard, if they were not fure 
 of three * days entertainment on the way : 
 and I cannot think highly of an inftitution 
 calculated only to keep alive an almoft obfo- 
 lete fuperftition. M. SauiTure has taken 
 fome pains to defend this inftitution in its 
 prefent ftate; and certainly if, as this au- 
 thor affirms, the paffage of St. Bernard 
 is of great importance to the Vallais on one 
 fide, and the Lombards on the other ; if the 
 communication between thefe two divided 
 countries be of fuch reciprocal advantage; 
 the labours of thefe religious, and their 
 So much is allowed by charter to every pilgrim. 
 
 feclufion
 
 LETTER LI. 2 6i 
 
 feclufion from fociety, merit the approba- 
 tion of the world. 
 
 There was fomething fo unufually dreary 
 and ungenial in the afpect of this place, 
 that we were impatient, after due gratifi- 
 cation of our curiofity, to leave it. We had 
 ordered our mules; and while thefe were 
 preparing, the ikies blackened prodigioufly, 
 and a heavy ilorm of hail and thunder came 
 on. The monks were urgent with us to 
 pafs the night in the Convent ; but we were 
 unanimous in wiftring to take our leave of 
 thefe grim and ftormy regions. We de- 
 fcended through a deluge of rain, from 
 which we fhortly iflued, and left behind 
 us the ftcrms and the hail, to drench the 
 Convent of St. Bernard. Doubtlefs thefe fa- 
 thers muft be actuated by fome powerful 
 principle, infixing their abode in thefe re- 
 gions of mifery : by their voluntary fuffer- 
 ings here, they no doubt hope to' mitigate 
 the pains of purgatory hereafter. I know 
 not what purgatory is, but I {hould think 
 s 3 it
 
 262 L E T T E R LI. 
 
 it almoft worth hazarding, rather than en- 
 dure the penance of a refidence during life 
 upon the mountains of St. Bernard. Mil- 
 ton has attempted to give us fome idea of 
 another place ; and I could not difmifs the 
 images from my recollection, when I turned 
 my eyes upon this miferable fcene, 
 
 " A difmal fituation, wafle and wild ; 
 " Regions of forrow, doleful (hades ; where peacs 
 " And reft can never dwell ; hope never comes, 
 " That comes to all." 
 
 Defcending partly upon our feet and partly 
 upon our mules, we arrived in the evening 
 at St. Pierre. The activity of our hoftefs 
 and her co-adjutors for it appeared by the 
 buftle that me called in the affiftance of the 
 neighbourhood had prepared our fupper. 
 On the following day we had, on our way 
 to St. Blanchier, an opportunity of feeing 
 the full difplaj of mulifh refiftance. A 
 watch had been left by one of the party at 
 St. Pierre. We were now a full league from 
 the place, and the guide was directed to re- 
 turn
 
 LETTER LI. 263 
 
 turn in fearch of it. The guide prepared 
 to return, but his mule faid, " NO." At 
 every effort the former made, the latter 
 added his " VETO." He ufed every mea- 
 fure of violence, but he might as well have 
 attempted to flog the Trojan horfe into a 
 gallop. Muth manoeuvring was difplayed 
 on both fides ; at length victory declared in 
 favor of the beaft, and the great Pierre 
 Balmat who had fo often conquered 
 mountains was himfelf compelled to yield 
 to the invincible ftubbornnefs of his mule. 
 
 LETTER LIT. 
 
 'TpHE appearance of St. Blanchier is pic- 
 
 turefque indeed, but . partakes too 
 
 much of the horrid. It ftands upon the 
 
 borders of the Drance, at the confluence of 
 
 three vallies, and in the very heart of 
 
 mountains, which project in awful forms 
 
 over its cottages, and feem to menace 
 
 84 its
 
 264 LETTER LIT. 
 
 its deftruction. It was a feftival with 
 the inhabitants; the church bell was ringing 
 a hollow found, and the peafants were 
 crowding the porch, in order to confecrate 
 the feftivities of the day by an at of devo- 
 tion. As we pafled through this village, 
 we were alarmed by an explofion, the effect 
 of which among the mountains was tre- 
 mendous. We took it for thunder, and 
 its echoes were prolonged by the rever- 
 beration of the rocks with which we were 
 enclofed. A volume of fmoke ifluing from 
 a diftant eminence convinced us, that it was 
 but the report of gunpowder. 
 
 Martigny, where we repofed ourfelves 
 and mules, is confidered as of fome im- 
 portance in the Vallaisj they called it a city, 
 and fpoke of it in high terms. It has, how- 
 ever, from the figure it makes, no great 
 pretenfions to diftinclion. It is the head- 
 quarters indeed of bufmefs and gaiety in this 
 country. Our landlord introduced us into 
 a very fpacious room, in one corner of 
 which fat a man, whofe figure and manner 
 
 rather
 
 LETTER LII. 2 5 5 
 
 rather excited our curiofity. We had taken 
 from the table a large pair of flappers, . and 
 were feverally offering our conjectures upon 
 their ufe, when, obferving our embarraff- 
 ment, the ftranger came up, claimed the 
 flappers, and told us, they were " pour at- 
 * e traper les papillons." The inn-keeper 
 informed us when he had retired, that it 
 was a German baron, whofe penchant for 
 butterfly-hunting was extraordinary; that he 
 expofed himfelf to a thoufand dangers and 
 fatigues in this whimfical purfuit; " et, Mef- 
 " fieurs, (continued he,) ce baron lamettroit 
 " huit jours pour attraper un feul papillon." 
 Our hoft was a lank meagre man : his 
 figure was remarkably tall, ghaftly, and 
 puritanical : his head was crowned with 
 a white cap, which did not diminifh the 
 folemnity of his appearance. He harangued 
 us the whole of dinner upon the dif- 
 ferent purfuits of mankind. He treated the 
 butterfly-hunter with the moft farcaftic 
 contempt. u A fellow, faid he, who runs 
 
 u over
 
 a66 LETTER LII. 
 
 * over bogs, lakes, and brambles after a 
 * c fliadow; a phantom; a being that is not 
 M touched without falling to pieces ; a 
 44 thing that has neither body nor foul." 
 Our landlord argued, and we fed ; and 
 his harangue finifhed only with our dinner. 
 We then refumed our journey to Bex. 
 
 I have not feen during my excurfion 
 many goitrous or idiotic perfons. At Salenche 
 I faw fome few of the latter ; and in dif- 
 ferent other places I have obferved the 
 former. You know the opinions of medi- 
 cal men are much divided upon the probable 
 caufes of thefe wens, and of the concomi- 
 tant diforder of idiodfm. Thefe phenomena 
 have by many been referred to fnowy or 
 calcareous waters, which are here drank 
 by the inhabitants by others to the marfhy 
 air, &c. but M. SaufTure affirms, that in the 
 higher parts of the mountains, where the 
 fnows and ice for the moft part prevail; 
 and in the vallies open to the plains, where 
 the marfhes are principally found ; neither 
 5 wens
 
 LETTER LTI. 167 
 
 wens nor idiocy are common. Thefe are 
 almoft folely to be met with in the vallies 
 elevated a little above the plain. In order to 
 account for this phenomenon, M. Sauflure 
 fuppofes, that the warmth which the en- 
 clofed air receives in this fituatiori, relaxes 
 the fibres of infants ; and produces thefe in- 
 flations of the neck, and that inertia^ which 
 is the ftrong charadteriftic of the Cretin. 
 This .he eftablifhes, by. remarking, that 
 on the fide of the valley, where the heat 
 from direcl: and reflected rays is greateft, 
 thefe diforders moft abound ; infomuch that 
 it is now cuftomary for thofe whofe cir- 
 cumftances are not too contracted, to fend 
 their wives to lie-in, and their infants to 
 be nurfed upon the mountains ; and this 
 experiment has, in no inftance, failed of pre- 
 
 ferving the health and faculties of the 
 
 . 
 children.
 
 [ 268 
 
 LETTER Lllf. 
 
 XT7E were now entered into the valley of 
 the Rhone, and fhortly arrived upon 
 that plain, confecrated to fame by the caf- 
 cade of the Piflevache. The body of water 
 ruflies between the divided projections of 
 a rock, whofe furnmits are rounded off, 
 and overfpread with a piclurefque umbrage. 
 Its waters dafh with the force acquired by 
 a fall of near three hundred feet againft the 
 rocky fragments below, and remount in a 
 cloud of foam. In comparifon of thefe ftu- 
 pendous phenomena of nature, how little are 
 the achievements of art ! 
 
 St. Maurice, through which we now 
 palled, is the laft town of the Vallais ; and 
 is famous for having been the Agaunum of 
 the ancients, where the maflacre of the 
 Theban Legion happened. The Roman 
 
 bridge
 
 LETTER LIIL 269 
 
 bridge of one arch, built acrofs the Rhone, 
 is ftill in exiftence. Their excellencies of 
 Berne, whofe territory here commences, 
 have a fmall garrifon in the place; and 
 fome frivolous queftions, of our names, 
 country, defigns, &c., put by a few invalids, 
 notified our entrance upon this fovereign 
 foil. We arrived in the evening at Bex, 
 and finally difmifled our guides. Before I 
 take my leave of them, let me commend 
 their activity, fidelity, and gratitude. Men 
 more ready to ferve, and more difpofed to 
 be fatisfied, I have never yet met with: 
 their underftandings are in general good, 
 their information found, and their man- 
 ners pleafmg and ingenuous. This is an 
 eulogium due to the guides of Chamouni. 
 
 Bex is famous for the falines, or fait 
 works, which are carried on in its neigh- 
 bourhood. We vifited thefe the following 
 day, having obtained permiffion from the 
 fuperintendant. Our char-a-bancs carried 
 us to the foot of the mountain which con- 
 4 tains
 
 $7$ LETTER LIIL 
 
 tains thefe fait fprings, and a guide con- 
 cluded us to the mouth of thofe caverns by 
 which we were to enter the heart of the 
 mountain. I muft obferve, that it is now one 
 hundred and twenty years fmce thefe fprings 
 were difcovered ; and the Seigneurs of Berne, 
 who are the proprietors, have fpared <fto ex- 
 pence to derive from them every poffible ad- 
 vantage. The great Hallerhadfor fomc years 
 the fuperintendance of thefe works, which 
 are now under the direction of Mr. Wild. It 
 was fuggefted to the republic, that there 
 muft be fome bed of fait funk deeply under 
 the mountain; becaufe, in proportion as 
 they dug into the earth, the water ran more 
 copious, and was more ftrongly impreg- 
 nated with fait. An experiment was there- 
 fore made at animmenfe coft ; and upon dig- 
 ging below the bed of the Rhone, they heard 
 the found of a fpring, to which they feemed 
 faft approaching. This animated their la- 
 bours : they penetrated to the fpring, arid 
 
 to
 
 LETTER LIII. 271 
 
 to their infinite mortification found it per- 
 faBtij facet. 
 
 A labourer met us at the entrance of the 
 mountain, and furnifhing us with frocks and 
 lamps, conducted us along a narrow paf- 
 fage bored through the folid rock, and lined 
 with fulphureous matter. After viewing 
 in our way the refervoir, we continued 
 along this channel, which kept afcending, 
 till we came to the centre of the mountain. 
 Here a large wheel of thirty-fix feet diameter 
 was playing with the eafe of a clock wheel, 
 and the iky was viiible above, the mountain 
 being here pierced from the fummit to the 
 centre. We now defcended from this emi- 
 nence, retracing our former fteps, till we 
 came to another bore of the mountain 
 which opened a paffage to the right. This, 
 our guide told us, penetrated one thoufand 
 feet, and we fhould, he added, find the work- 
 men extending it ftill farther. We* entered 
 upon it, but had not gone many paces be- 
 fore we felt a great difference in the at- 
 
 znofphere.
 
 272 LETTER LIU. 
 
 mofphere. As we advanced, we found the 
 air ftill lefs fit for refpiration : our lamps 
 went out frequently, and we felt a painful 
 preflure upon the lungs. Yet here the poor la- 
 bourers were employed in chiflellingthe hard 
 rock, and hewing out a paflage, in an air 
 poifoned by fulphureous exhalations, and to 
 us unfamiliar with its vapours totally 
 fuffocating. We were at this moment, as the 
 guide informed us, four thoufand feet deep 
 in the mountain. Thefe poor people have 
 but eight batz, or about one {hilling per day. 
 Their day confifts of eight hours; at the ex- 
 piration of which, the fet that goes off, is 
 fucceeded by another, without interruption ; 
 fo that the works are never fuffered to ftand 
 ftill. We haftened to emerge from this dif- 
 mal dungeon ; and were on our way, when 
 a hollow found rumbled through every ca- 
 vity of the mountain, and was conveyed to 
 our ears in thundering claps. We were 
 thrown into alarm, and imagined that the 
 fulphureous air had kindled from the lamp, 
 
 and
 
 LETTER LIV. 273 
 
 and occafioned the explofion ; nor did we 
 find ourfelves much relieved by the intelli- 
 gence of our guide, that it was only occa- 
 fioned by fome labourers below, who were 
 blowing up parts of the rock with gun- 
 powder. 
 
 LETTER LIV. 
 
 CUCH was our exterior when we left the 
 hollow windings of the Salt Mountain, 
 that we were obliged to perform half a 
 dozen luflrations before we were reftored to 
 humanity. What will not curiofity atchieve 
 A more difagreeable expedition could not 
 have been undertaken. A frock, thick-fet 
 with greafe, hanging over our fhoulders * 
 our heads bent, to watch our footfteps over 
 the rank fmoke of a lamp noxious exhala- 
 tions hovering round the walls and a con- 
 taminated air entering into our lungs. 
 Such were the circumftances attending our 
 VOL. i. T defcent
 
 t74 LETTER LIV. 
 
 dcfcent into thefc abodes of mifery and hor- 
 ror. Speaking in the language of a tra- 
 veller, it is one of thofe objects which it is 
 more pleafant to have feen, than to fee. 
 
 Bex is a town of no great extent, plea- 
 fantly fituated, in a foil that has enriched 
 its inhabitants to a degree incommodious 
 to the traveller. Their indifference to fur- 
 ther gain is fuch, that they will rather fuf- 
 fer their cattle to continue unemployed, than 
 let them out to ftrangers at a reafonable 
 payment. The grand eatable at Bex is po- 
 tatoes. Thefe they grow of an enormous 
 fize, and a very admirable quality. They 
 ufually fervethem up,drefled in various ways, 
 in the fame courfe. Some troops were en- 
 tering this town, at the moment in which we 
 were quitting it. The occafion was fuffi- 
 ciently whimfical. A difpute had ariferi 
 among the inhabitants, refpedting the church 
 pews. This quarrel had at length affumed 
 a ferious fhape, and a holy war was ex- 
 peded. Their Excellencies of Berne had 
 
 been
 
 LETTER LIV. 375 
 
 been requefted to march fome troops into 
 the town, in order to quell thofe religious 
 feuds, and reduce this church militant to a 
 peace eftablifhment. I fufpect that the fpi- 
 rit of difcontent, which is gaining fo rapidly 
 among the provinces dependent on the go- 
 vernment of Berne, has excited them to this 
 meafure of precaution ; and the ftruggle for 
 church pews, has only afforded the pretext 
 for putting it in execution. 
 
 We now pafled byAigle and Villeneuve 
 to Vevai. This was a very delicious part 
 of our journey. It was on this day that we 
 regained our view of the Lake of Geneva, 
 at the extremity of which Villeneuve ftands. 
 Between Bex and this laft mentioned place $ - 
 we faw the entrance of the Rhone into the 
 lake. There is nothing peculiarly flriking 
 in this, beyond the confideration, that this 
 river continues its courfe through the Lake 
 till at Geneva a diftance of more than forty- 
 miles from the point of entrance its waters 
 are again collected into a ftream, acquire a 
 T 2 new
 
 zj6 BETTER L1V. 
 
 new velocity, and move in a rapid current 
 towards the fea. 
 
 We patted the Chateau de Chillon, as we 
 drove to Vevai. It is a very beautiful or- 
 nament to this part of the Lake, and reminds 
 one forcibly of antient fable. This Chateau 
 is built upon a ftupendous rock, running 
 far into the Lake; on the other extremity of 
 which are the heights of Milleray, immor- 
 talized by the pen of RoufTeau. It was in 
 this Chateau that the bailiffs of Vevai had 
 their antient refidence; and, previous to 
 the introduction of artillery, this fort was 
 confidered as impregnable. The garrifon 
 has lately been augmented by the provi- 
 dence of the Bernois, who do not view, 
 without ftrong fymptoms of apprehenfion, 
 the eclat which the French revolution has 
 obtained in the different provinces depen- 
 dent upon their authority. We patted the 
 night at Vevai a very lively little town 
 upon the banks of the Lake, furnifhed with 
 
 very
 
 LETTER LIV. 277 
 
 very agreeable promenadesand the next 
 morning arrived at Laufanne. 
 
 I have now brought my journal of this 
 expedition to a concltifion. Nine days 
 were fpent in accompliming this object ; and 
 fuch has been our induftry, that we have in 
 the courfe of this fhort period gone over a 
 track of near two hundred miles. I retrace the 
 journey with great fatisfa&ion. The fcenes 
 with which it has been crouded, will never 
 perhaps, in my experience, meet a parallel. 
 Where ihall I feek again the contiguous 
 elements of heat and cold ? Where fhall I 
 find the tranfparent pyramids of Boiflbns, 
 or the icy magazines of Montanvert ? What 
 climes will {how me a parallel to the chryf- 
 tal arches over the Arveron, or the magni- 
 ficent varieties of the valley of Entremont ? 
 Where, in its darkeft moments, fhall the mind 
 borrow more fombre colours, than from the 
 caverns and perforated rocks of Bex, or the 
 flinty deferts of St. Bernard ? My foul is 
 chilled when I confider the wretches who 
 T 3 toil
 
 2 ;8 LETTER LV. 
 
 toil in the one, or refide on the other. But 
 Heaven has moulded us to every variety of 
 fituation ; and, when the wifhes of man are 
 bounded by his wants, there are few fitua- 
 tions which can exclude pleafure; when 
 they are not, no condition can banifh pain. 
 
 L E T T E R LV. 
 
 Laufanne, Aug. 26, 1791. 
 
 TT7HAT a wonderful country is this ! He 
 who has fojourned on the banks of 
 the Leman Lake, will tell you, that the 
 fcenery around prefents an ever-fruitful, 
 ever-varied picture to the eye. The won- 
 ders of the univerfe feem here to be com- 
 bined in one magnificent groupe, and all the 
 fublimities of nature collected into a focus. 
 Each recovering day gives birth to fome new 
 beauty, The clouds are diftributed into 
 more fantaftic forms. The mountains are 
 
 illumined
 
 L E T T E R LV. 279 
 
 illumined with a richer luftre, and the trees 
 are embrowned with deeper and more vivid 
 tints. But it is in the rocks of Millerai that 
 enthufiafm delights to dwell thofe rocks 
 where the wild and difconfolate St. Preux 
 uttered his accents of defpair. Oft as my 
 eye fixes upon thefe awful precipices, the 
 lover of Heloife is prefent to my view. I 
 fee him frantic with the agonies of difap~ 
 pointment, meditating, amidft thefe frown- 
 ing heights, the rafh refolve, as he furveys the 
 gulph below. His notes of anguifh feem 
 flili to live in faint and languid echoes* 
 " Les rochers font efcarpes, 1'eau eft pro- 
 " fonde, et je fuis au defefpoir." 
 
 I ihould tell you, perhaps, that thefe 
 mountains face directly that part of the Lake 
 upon which our villa is planted ; and it is 
 among the chief amufements of the place, 
 to pafs# bateau to the very mountains them- 
 felveS. The paflage is eafily effected in 
 three hours ; and a romantic repaft is made 
 on the {helving declivities of Millerai. The 
 T 4 baths
 
 *8o LETTER LV. 
 
 baths of Evian form the principal rendez- 
 vous; and here, on the Sunday evenings, 
 the fong and the dance are celebrated. 
 Numbers pafs the Lake from Laufanne and 
 its environs, to partake of thofe feftivities in 
 Savoy, which the rigid police of the country 
 denies them at home. 
 
 It has been remarked by many travellers, 
 that Switzerland would form a very noble 
 fchool of painting ; and it is a matter of 
 aftonifhment to thofe who furvey the very 
 rich and exuberant fcenery of this country, 
 that it fhould not yet have excited the la- 
 bours of the pencil, and that the canvas 
 Ihould not hitherto have glowed with its 
 original beauties. The author of the " Ta- 
 " bleau Pi&orefque de la Suiffe" indulges in 
 the warmefl raptures upon contemplating 
 the general flate of the country which he 
 calls an abftract of the known world ; and 
 then, adverting to the manners and genius 
 of the inhabitants, he breaks out into the 
 moil indignant ftrain of inventive: " Et 
 
 " pouy
 
 L E T T E R LV. 281 
 
 " pour qui cette fuperbe et magnifique ga- 
 " lerie? pour qui cette etonnanteet richecrea- 
 " tion? pour unpeuple infenfible,apatheque, 
 " et froid pour un peuple qui ne fent rien, 
 " qui n'imagine rien, qui ne pleure jamais, 
 " qui rien n]affe6te ; pour un peuple inca- 
 " pable demotions vives, de paflions pro- 
 " fondes ; pour un peuple qui ne connoit 
 " jamais le delire, Tenthoufiafm de la poefie, 
 " de la peinture ; ni les tranfports, les de- 
 *' lices, les douces fureurs, les accens frene- 
 " tiques et brulans des fentiments pai?- 
 < c fionnes." 
 
 Thofe who have ftudied more clofely the 
 manners of this people than I have been 
 able to do, will better decide how far this 
 delineation of character is accurate. A very 
 different, and far more favourable pidure of 
 this nation, is drawn by the maflerly pen of 
 the Chevalier Mehegan, which I am dif- 
 pofed to believe does them no more than 
 flrid: juftice. " La habite un peuple fim- 
 w pie, bienfaifant, brave, ennemi du fafte,
 
 a8i LETTER LV. 
 
 " ami du travail, ne cherchant point d'ef- 
 " claves et n-e voulant point des maitres." 
 Society is unqueftionably in many families 
 upon a very civilized footing, and all the 
 ,agre?nens of polifhed life are cultivated with 
 fuccefs. The peafants preferve for the moft 
 part the fturdy traits of antient character- 
 They live principally on vegetable diet; are 
 frugal, induftrious, and, generally fpeaking, 
 inoSenfive. Their habits of economy are 
 not wholly exempt from the meaner foibles 
 to which it is allied. Frugality too often 
 degenerates among them into a fordid at- 
 tachment to gain, and renders it difficult to 
 difpute the truth of that characteriftic pro- 
 verb M Point d'argent, point de SuifTe.'*
 
 LETTER LVI. 
 
 Laufanne, Sept; 20, 1791. 
 
 'TpHE harmony of this place muft now fuf- 
 fer interruption. Political intrigues 
 have been carried on, to introduce fome 
 changes into the government, and, as it is 
 rumoured, to effect a revolution, upon 
 French principles. Great rejoicings were 
 made at Rolle, a town not far diftant, upoa 
 the anniverfary of the French Revolution. 
 At this feftival were found fome of the moft 
 confiderable people in the Pays de Vaud 5 
 and toafts were drank, which carried no 
 fmall terror to the ruling Powers. Since 
 this memorable day, a very high tone of 
 language has been held by many, whofe in- 
 fluence in the country is great ; and in pri- 
 vate parties and public aflemblies, no icruple 
 has been made, of reprobating ariftocracy, 
 and holding up to ridicule the government 
 
 of
 
 3 g 4 L E T T E R LVI. 
 
 of Berne, which they ftile " Le gouvernement 
 ' d'Ours." 
 
 There were not wanting among the fe- 
 males of the higher rank, thofe who efpoufed 
 warmly the caufe of France, and carried 
 into public upon their head-drefs the na- 
 tional colours. The air of " 9a ira" was 
 demanded upon every occafion when mufic 
 was to be had ; and this was danced to in 
 their numerous aflemblies, with a degree of 
 enthufiafm which threatened ferious confe- 
 quences. The Genevefe have for fome time 
 paft prohibited this dance j and thofe who 
 have feen the effects it produces when per- 
 formed in the fpirit and with the vivacity 
 of the nation from which it is derived, will 
 not confider the.profcription of fuch an air 
 as a meafure of contemptible precaution. 
 
 At Laufanne the government flumbered, 
 or feemed to (lumber. The libraries were 
 refoited to for political difcuffion. There 
 the French gazettes were read and debated, 
 To fo great a licence had the fpirit of the 
 
 people
 
 LETTER LVI. 28$ 
 
 people proceeded, that the tranfacHons of 
 France were not commented upon without 
 fome bold application to their own govern- 
 . incnt ; and projects of reform, nay even, 
 of revolution, were more than whifpered. 
 At length the alarm was given, and the 
 energy of the ruling Powers was awakened. 
 It is not, indeed, to be fuppofed, that they 
 continued idle fpectators of the game that 
 was playing. It had, however, the appear- 
 ance of neglect, nay even of timidity. This 
 might be done with the defign of fuffering 
 the plot to attain maturity, in order to meet 
 the full mifchief, and crufh, with more fuo- 
 cefs, the partizans. News was quickly circu- 
 lated, that the Bernois were now inarching 
 three thoufand men, and feveral pieces of artil- 
 lery, towards Laufanne, where they fhortly 
 arrived, and were encamped before the town. 
 Meafures the moft vigorous were adopted, 
 both civil and military. Laufanne had all 
 the appearance of a befieged town: Cannon 
 were planted at the gates, with lighted 
 2 matches,
 
 286 , LETTER LVI. 
 
 matches, in a ftate of preparation. A fpe- 
 cies of inquifidon was inftituted ; and no 
 ceremony was ufed in quartering a fufficient 
 number of foldiers in the houfes of thofe 
 who were fufpe&ed to have been concerned 
 in the intended revolution. Some people 
 of confideration were arrefled ; and, if re- 
 port may be credited, their treatment was 
 marked with the moft rigid feverity. The 
 Chateau de Chillon is the Baftile of the 
 country: to this prifon have been configned, 
 thofe who were confidered as principals in 
 the plot; and informations are ftill paid 
 for at the price of fifty crowns. 
 
 What this plot was, which has brought a 
 camp to our gates, and aVi inquifidon into 
 our houfes, I am not able to inform you. 
 The government of Berne does not make 
 manifefl the details of its proceedings, and 
 fome people have affected to regard the 
 whole as a bubble. This, however, muft 
 be faid, that very ftrong fymptoms of dif- 
 content were difcoverable for fome time. 
 
 previous
 
 LETTER LVI. 287 
 
 previous to the arrival of the troops ; and 
 the general turn of converfation demon- 
 ftrafed, that fome movement might Shortly 
 be expeded. It is I think fufficiently clear, 
 that the lower ranks of people in this countf^ 
 never felt themfelves interefted in the pro- 
 jected revolution. The punifhments have 
 entirely fallen upon families of a certain 
 rank ; and the peafants are obferved to con- 
 tinue their labours of hufbandry, without 
 occafioning or receiving moleftation. 
 
 Indeed, the grievances alleged have never 
 appeared to me capable of interefting the 
 community at large : they are principally 
 felt by perfons of condition, and relate,for the 
 moft parti to civil and military rank. As a 
 province dependent upon Berne, it enjoys 
 not the full privileges of the fuperior coun- 
 try; and officers are impofed upon them, 
 both in the civil and military departments, 
 to the exclufion of thofe among the natives 
 who afpire to fuch rank. This is what I 
 have heard ftated by one who had the re- 
 zo putatioa
 
 288 LETTER LV1. 
 
 putation of being a principal in the confpi* 
 racy, as the moft formidable fpecies of op- 
 preffion. However invidious and unjuft 
 this may be however it may wound the 
 pride, and provoke the refentment, of the 
 higher clafles it cannot be fuppofed that 
 a rough and hardy peafantry, who are not 
 opprefled by taxes, nor abridged in the en- 
 joyment of the fruits of their labour, (hould 
 take any intereft in reforms, which fought 
 the redrefs of fuch grievances. The influence 
 of their lords, and the eclat of the French 
 revolution, might feduce the abject and ca- 
 pricious ; but the wifer, and by far the 
 greater part, would continue, as they ap- 
 pear to have done, firmly attached to the 
 government, under which they enjoy tran- 
 quillity and protection.
 
 LETTER LV1I. 
 
 Laufanne, Oft. 2, 1791. 
 
 country is now in its full beauty: 
 all the Hoping parts towards the Lake 
 are covered with vines, the grapes of which 
 are advancing faft to maturity. The vines 
 are remarkably low, and planted very thick. 
 They are fupported by flicks ; and fuch in- 
 deed is their exuberance, that they (land 
 greatly in need of fupport. 
 
 As I have underftood, the cultivation of 
 the vineyards is done upon this principle. 
 The farmer undertakes the whole of the 
 labour and experice; in recompence of 
 which he receives half the nett profit made 
 upon the produce. This fecures the eftates 
 from pillage. The farmers are very active 
 in protecting the vineyards, which lie fuffi- 
 ciently expofed to depredation. It is diffi- 
 
 VOL. I. U Cult
 
 490 LETTER LVII. 
 
 cult to make an excurfion, in any direction, 
 without pafling through many acres covered 
 with vines ; and the heat of the weather^ 
 added to the very feducing afpect of the 
 fruit, renders it not a little difficult to ab- 
 ftain from as of plunder. As the vintage 
 is now approaching, more than ordinary di- 
 ligence is ufed to guard this facred property; 
 and men, fuitably armed, are on the watch 
 day and night. 
 
 The heat here is very oppreflive, except 
 when the Bifc y which is a north-eaft wind, 
 blows. This is extremely (harp; arid pafling 
 over the fnowy mountains, comes charged 
 with a very penetrating cold. Though we 
 have now been a confiderable time in this 
 part of Switzerland, and are indeed looking 
 forward to our departure, I have not had 
 opportunity to make any excurfion beyond 
 the Glaciers and the Lake of Neuchatel, 
 But indeed the whole of Switzerland has 
 been fo accurately delineated in the journals 
 of Mr. Coxe, and fo warmly painted by the 
 
 Marquis
 
 LETTER LVII. a gi 
 
 Marquis de Langle, that I could not flatter 
 myfelf with being able to tread to advan- 
 tage the fame ground, without borrowing 
 largely from the induftry of the one, and 
 the animation of the other. 
 
 Such is the feverity now adopted by the 
 government of Berne, that the French lan- 
 guage is in many regiments forbidden to be 
 fpoken* Some gentlemen, lately returned 
 from an excurfion into the heart of the 
 country, related to me, that upon entering 
 an inn where the officers of a Swifs regi- 
 ment were quartered, they requefted as ufual 
 to be fhewn the room where the company 
 fupped. They were fcarcely entered, when 
 the Commandant demanded of the landlady 
 in a very angry tone, " Qui font ces Mef- 
 " fieurs la ?" " Ce font des Anglois," replied 
 the matron. He looked ftern, and with 
 fome degree of harfhnefs rejoined, " il eft 
 " defendu a mes officiers de parler Fran- 
 " cois ;" and they fupped together without 
 exchanging a word. Profcriptions are now 
 u 2 going
 
 29 i LETTER LV1T. 
 
 going on with great difpatch j but all is 
 conducted with fo much fecrecy, that it is 
 difficult to arrive at a knowledge of parti- 
 culars. Thus much however is certain, that 
 fociety has very confiderably differed by 
 thefe political machinations ; and many in- 
 dividuals of the firft character have been put 
 under arreft. This change of meafures in 
 the ruling powers has abridged very greatly 
 the freedom, and even the convenience of 
 ftrangers. The libraries are put under a 
 new law : all the gazettes from France, 
 deemed dangerous or offenfive, are pro- 
 fcribed ; and a notice has been affixed to the 
 walls, prohibiting the difcuflion of political 
 queftions threatening the librarian with a 
 fevere penalty, if he neglected to fee the 
 order enforced. The uniformity of my 
 prefent mode of life, and the ftrict military 
 law under which we now are, will not al- 
 low me to tranfmit to you more interefting 
 details and the dulnefs of the place muft be 
 my apology for the dulnefs of the letter.
 
 [ *93 1 
 
 LETTER LVIII. 
 
 Laufanne, Oft. 16, 1791. 
 
 TOLD you in my laft, that the pleafures 
 of refidence in the Pays de Vaud had 
 been very much abridged by the collifion of 
 political interefts. It was my fortune to 
 have fallen under the particular patronage 
 of the obnoxious party, and the deftru&ion 
 of their confequence has thrown me very 
 much upon myfelf for amufement. Socie- 
 ties are indeed not totally annihilated ; but 
 all the frank and open intercourfe of life is 
 at an end : the fhadow yet ftalks abroad, but 
 all the delicious fubftance is extinct. If 
 any defigns of a revolutionary nature were 
 ever ferioufly projected, it is difficult to fay 
 whether the weaknefs of the projectors or 
 the wifdcm of the governors appears to have 
 been the greateft. Difguife is confidered fo 
 u 3 eflen-
 
 294 LETTER LVIII. 
 
 eflential to plot, that nothing but refpedt for 
 the pointed cannon of their Excellencies of 
 Berne can prevail upon me to believe, that 
 half a dozen families of indifcreet enthufiafm 
 had really conceived the defign of detach- 
 ing the province they inhabit from its al- 
 liance to the mother country. The ruling 
 powers have at all events ftolen a march 
 upon them ; and whether the neceffity may 
 have been real or imaginary, it is certain 
 that the government has fuftained no lofs of 
 influence by this interference. 
 
 The livery of nature is now changing 
 rapidly in this delicious country, and the 
 completion of the vintage has ftript the long 
 hills of their beft ornaments. With the 
 fwallow I am now lingering in impatient 
 anxiety for the fignal of departure to a 
 warmer and more cheery clime. The ca- 
 bals of ftate, by arrefting the ftream of 
 amufement, have driven me to the ele- 
 ments of a new language ; and I mall hope 
 to mix with a new people, not indifferently 
 
 prepared
 
 LETTER LVIII. 29S 
 
 prepared to enjoy their fociety. My mind 
 is big with that expectation which books 
 and reports have taught me to form of the 
 country to which we tend. Endeared by 
 the fame of its heroes and its poets, and ex- 
 alted by the character of its local beauties, 
 it now fills up the void which banimed plea- 
 fures have left ; and my mind embraces, in 
 thefe its moments of folitude and feclufion, 
 a thoufand fairy vifions. 
 
 Some deduction muft doubtlefs be made 
 from anticipation, and proportionable al- 
 lowance muft be admitted for circumftances 
 of change and deterioration. Such would, 
 however, deftroy the pleafure of anticipat- 
 ing at all, which is then only exquifite, 
 when it fees no limit ; and as I have yet tp 
 encounter a few more blafts of the cutting 
 Bife, before I approach the reality^ I am yet 
 anxious to preferve the vifion entire. 
 
 Your amufement cannot have received 
 any fpecial addition by my late communi- 
 cations. The uniform progrefs of my days 
 u 4 opens
 
 j 9 5 LETTER LIX. 
 
 opens no difcovery in circumftance or re- 
 flection ; and you have little to expert on 
 the fcore of novelty, till the Alps are be- 
 tween us. 
 
 LETTER LIX. 
 
 Turin, Nov. 7. 
 
 T WAIT your congratulations on having 
 pafled the Alps. I feel as though we 
 had performed no mean atchievement. Un- 
 luckily fo many have been beforehand with 
 me, and fo many are likely to follow, that 
 my travelling pride muft fuffer, I fear, on 
 the reflection, a great abatement. 
 
 We lingered too long upon the northern 
 frontier to find a ready paflage over this 
 mountainous barrier. It was not till the 
 evening of the 28th ult. that we deter- 
 mined upon this enterprize. The Bife y 
 which is a very favage kind of wind, had 
 
 blown
 
 LETTER LIX. 297 
 
 blown for fome days, and carried off the 
 laft remains of autumn. Our friends had 
 feverally ftruck their tents, and had quitted 
 our neighbourhood in fucceflion. Solitude, 
 a barren foil, and the blafts of winter, now 
 prompted our final refolve, and at the clofe 
 of the day we bid adieu to the environs of 
 JLaufanne, and, paffing the night at Merges, 
 arrived the next morning at our old quarters 
 in Geneva. As friendfhip is faid to divide 
 the pains and double the pleafures of foci- 
 ety, we agreed to unite with two agreeable 
 companions, of whom we had fome pre- 
 vious knowledge, and who were, as we 
 found, loitering between refolution and ap- 
 prehenfion in the hotel at Geneva. The 
 remainder of my day in that city was pafled 
 in feeking out thofe from whom I had on 
 former occafions received marks of hofpi- 
 table attention. Madamoifelle A. had ar- 
 refted me at Rolle in the interim of prepar- 
 ation for breakfaft. I profited of an hour's 
 ^onverfatiori with her on the ftate of French 
 
 politics.
 
 298 LETTER LIX. 
 
 politics. Her talents for drawing had en- 
 abled her to indulge her veneration for 
 ibme of the leading characters at Paris, 
 whofe portraits, in fome cafes from recollec- 
 tion, in others from engraving, (he had de- 
 figned with much fpirit. Thefe fhe de- 
 fcanted upon as fhe feverally exhibited 
 them with enchanting volubility. " Voila 
 u des gens," faid fhe, " comme il y en a 
 " peu !" On La Fayette fhe was moft libe- 
 ral in her encomiums. " C'eft un homme 
 <c fait expres pour la revolution. 1 ' My time 
 was limited. Our political dialogue waa 
 interrupted by mutual adieus and recipro- 
 cal profeffions, *' d'une amitie la plus fin-*- 
 cere." 
 
 Geneva was rendered unufually gay by a 
 vaft influx of company from the neighbour- 
 hood to attend the comedy. This is, to be 
 agreeable to report, the laft feafon of thea* 
 trical indulgence ; and, by a decree of the 
 Council, no dramatical exhibitions are here-^ 
 after tp be tolerated within the jurifdidion 
 
 of
 
 LETTER L1X. 299 
 
 of the republic, Theatres are, according to 
 Roufleau, only juftifiable in great cities; 
 and I am of opinion with the puritanical le- 
 giflators of Geneva, that the permiflion of 
 a theatrical corps, in a town regulated even 
 by the ftrideft police, may yet ferve as a 
 paflport for the introduction of thofe vices 
 which the indolence and the diffipation of 
 this profefllon are too well calculated to 
 encourage. 
 
 But I have detained you too long at Ge- 
 neva, impatient as you muft no doubt be to 
 pufli acrofs the Alps. Bear then with this 
 delay in the outfet, and I promife you that 
 my narrative (hall now move with as little 
 interruption as the inequalities of the way 
 will allow.
 
 E 300 ] 
 
 LETTER LX. 
 
 p EPORTS had reached us the night pre- 
 vious to our departure from Geneva, 
 that heavy falls of fnow had been obferved 
 on the route, and that difpatch was necef- 
 fary, left the pafs fhould be rendered im- 
 practicable. We made therefore every pre- 
 paration to enter upon Savoy at an early 
 hour, but were after all compelled to put up 
 for the night at a village called Frangy. This 
 is about fixteen miles from Geneva. Here 
 we had early experience of that inexpref- 
 fible mifery characteriftic of the inns of Sa- 
 voy. The rooms into which we were con- 
 ducted were ftrewed with clods of grafs and 
 dirt, and the fupper was made up of vile 
 morfels fteeped in garlic. Our next day's 
 journey brought us to Chamberri. The 
 air was clear, and the mountains began to 
 
 be
 
 L E T T E R LX. 301 
 
 be diftin&ly vifible. Aix les Bains, which 
 lies between Frangy and Chamberri, ar- 
 refted our attention for half an hour. This 
 town is remarkable for the excellence of its 
 hot fprings. They are fulphureous, and re- 
 puted to poffefs very falubrious properties. 
 The baths are very commodioufly con- 
 ftruded. Excepting fome emigrants who 
 hare fought afylum here, very few ftran- 
 gers were to be feen. 
 
 Chamberri, where we next lodged, is, as 
 you know, the capital of the duchy of Sa- 
 voy. Its fituation is not among the leaft 
 of its beauties, commanding noble and va- 
 ried views of hills, plains, and vallies. I 
 faw the town in a difadvantageous hour. 
 It was a faint-day, and the rain fell hard. 
 Thefe were two circumftances equally un- 
 favourable to the refpecl of a trading town, 
 which is only rendered cheerful by the fpi- 
 rit and activity of commercial occupation. 
 The {hops were clofely barricadoed, and no 
 doors were feen open but thofe of the 
 
 churches^
 
 3 o* LETTER LX. 
 
 churches. Here I followed the multitude, 
 and encountered a hoft of beggars, more 
 ragged, importunate, and clamorous than 
 any of the fraternity of mendicants I ever 
 met with. I ought to remark, that, agree- 
 ably to cuftom, this fhould have been the 
 firft ftage from Geneva ; and the accommo- 
 dations here are at leaft fuch as ought to 
 filence complaint. Our third day brought 
 us to Aigue-belle, in the courfe of which 
 we paffed through Montmelian, fufficiently 
 known in the contiguous countries for the 
 excellence of its wines. It is at Chamberri 
 that the valley opens which conducts to the 
 foot of Mount Cenis. Down this valley 
 the river Aar purfues its courfe, and moves 
 with confiderable rapidity. In fome points 
 it is worked into foam, and breaks its way 
 with all the violence of the moft impetuous 
 torrent. In the journey of this day the 
 Alps began to open upon us, till on our ar- 
 rival at Aigue-belle they fhowed themfelves 
 in all their majeftic and tremendous forms. 
 13 Our
 
 L E t T E R LX. 303 
 
 Our fourth day brought us to St. Jean de 
 Maurienne, where we found no contempt- 
 ible quarters. 
 
 From St. Jean to St. Andre, for we were 
 now roving amidft the refidences of the 
 faints, we toiled the fifth day. The valley, 
 as we advanced, gradually narrowed, and 
 the mountains as regularly augmented in 
 number, height, and horrors. The torrent 
 of the Aar we pafled a variety of times, in 
 the courfe of this day, upon wooden bridges, 
 of what appeared to us the lighteft conftruc- 
 tion. We hinted fome apprehenfions re- 
 fpecYmg our fafety, but were aflured that 
 their ftrength was ill-judged of by their ap- 
 pearance. The road was as little calculated 
 to infpire confidence. It coafted almoft 
 uniformly along the moft hideous preci- 
 pices, exciting at times lively emotions of 
 terror, and exhibiting, through a fright- 
 ful alternation of afcents and declivities, all 
 the varieties of difficulty and danger.
 
 LETTER LXI. 
 
 TT was not till the evening of the fixth day 
 that our proceflion arrived at Lannef- 
 bourg at the foot of Mount Cenis. No- 
 thing but miferable fights of human infir- 
 mity had occurred in this latter part of the 
 valley. From St. Jean de Maurienne to 
 Mount Cenis I faw little befides fallow 
 countenances and emaciated forms. St. An- 
 dre appeared, indeed, the head-quarters of 
 goitrous idiotifm and wretchednefs. Moun- 
 tains on either fide feemed to comprefs, 
 within a moft gloomy and infalubrious fort 
 of dungeon, thefe woe- begone inhabitants, 
 who called to my mind 
 
 the wafteful hoft 
 Of pain and ficknefs, fqualid and deform M. 
 
 You will readily conceive that great falls of 
 
 fnow could not much improve a track which 
 
 8 pafled
 
 LETTER LXI. 305 
 
 Rafted over the declivities of mountains. 
 Sixteen miles performed between the hours 
 often and four, will enable you to judge of 
 our pace and patience. The diverfity of 
 fliapes and magnitudes, which the vaft cluA 
 ter.of Alps> among which we were now 
 moving, prefented, under a deep coating of 
 fnow, made a very curious appearance. 
 
 In a village through which we pa fled, 
 fome violent fhouts excited our curiofity. 
 We found they were occafioned by an event 
 of great importance to the inhabitants, 
 the fhooting of a bear, which had rnade fre- 
 quent defcents upon this wretched hamlet, 
 and borne off cohfiderable booty ; till the 
 lofs of an infant^ whom he was fuppofed 
 to have ftolen, enraged the peafants, who 
 purfued this inhuman depredator into the 
 favage wilds in which he refided, and, at 
 the moment of our arrival, Bruin was drag- 
 ging in triumph through the village. 
 
 The approach to Lannefbourg offered a 
 curious fpectacle. The valley through 
 
 VOL. I. X which
 
 3 o6 LETTER LXI. 
 
 which we had been journeying for forrte 
 days, and which had gradually narrowed, 
 now appeared to terminate j and the moun- 
 tain over which we were to pafs feemed to 
 oppofe, by the tracklefs fnow which inve- 
 loped it, an infuperable barrier. We en- 
 tered Lannefbourg before the day clofed, 
 and were inftantly furrounded by a number 
 of men, who demanded permiffion to pull 
 our carriages to pieces by royal authority. 
 I refpect governments wherever I go, and 
 would not wantonly pour contempt upon 
 any of his Sardinian Majefty's fubjeds ; but 
 I think in my confcience, that an aflemblage 
 of more ill-looking wretches never acted 
 under government authority. A commif- 
 fioner foon fhowed himfelf at the head of 
 thefe raggamuffins, and throwing out a ta- 
 riffe, in length " a full cloth-yard or more," 
 gave us our choice of travelling accommo- 
 dations, with the prices fettled by order of 
 the police. Our negotiation with him was 
 expedited by the prefling defwe of finding 
 
 the
 
 LETTER LXII. 307 
 
 the comforts of a blazing fire, and a trout 
 fiflied out of the Lake of Mount Cenis. A 
 very convertible madamoifellej the daughter 
 of the landlord^ attended on us at fupper, 
 and did credit to the vivacity and nai'vete of 
 the Savoyardes. 
 
 The hotelj which is newly fet up, ilands 
 a very fair chance of fucceeding j for, in 
 addition to the bad reputation under which 
 the other labours, of being the worft and 
 moft impofing inn in Chriftendom, I have 
 no where feen a little fyren better calcu- 
 lated for detaining travellers, who are not 
 violently prefled to crofs the mountain. 
 
 LETTER LXIL 
 
 i T was not by the aid of mules and porters, 
 fedans and fledges, that the hero of Car- 
 thage made his entree into Italy : and yet 
 I much queftion whether the Carthaginian 
 foldiers complained more emphatically of 
 x 2 cold,
 
 3 o8 LETTER LXII. 
 
 cold, fatigue, and inconvenience, than we 
 did. I am impatient to carry you over this 
 mountain, or I could expatiate very largely 
 upon the murmurs I uttered and heard in 
 the afcent from Lannefbourg. The air was 
 indeed impregnated with particles of intenfe 
 cold, and made its way through all the ar- 
 mour with which we were provided. One 
 hour brought us upon the plain, when, to 
 recover from the effects of thefe feverities, 
 we were conducted to a fhed, in which a 
 fire recovered us to fomething like good 
 humour. From this fhed we were feverally 
 drawn in a fledge to the fouthern extremity 
 of the plain, by mules who trotted with 
 confiderable fwiftnefs through the fnows. 
 The poft is fituated a mid-diftance on this 
 route, and was carefully announced to us 
 by the guides and muleteers. At the 
 Grande Croix, in the extremity of the 
 plain, were fome objects upon which I 
 could not but beflow a Ihare of attention. 
 To the right was the lake fo celebrated for 
 
 the
 
 LETTER. LXIf. 329 
 
 the excellence of its trout ; to the left, the 
 hopital. 
 
 This hopital was founded, like that of 
 St. Bernard, for the relief and refrefhment 
 of thofe pilgrims whom devotion might in- 
 duce to feek the fhrines of Loretto, or foli- 
 cit the benediction of Chrift's vicar. At 
 fome diftance flood the " Chapelie de tran- 
 fis" a ccemetery conftructed for the burial 
 of thofe who may chance to perifti on thefe 
 pious expeditions. Numerous huts are alfo 
 raifed upon different parts of this moun- 
 tain, the refidence of fhepherds during the 
 fummer, as very excellent pafture .is found 
 in the bofom of thofe rocks, which, inclofe 
 the upper level, and whofeHpiQ^nteaife to a 
 very confiderable height. In .fact, when 
 upon this plain, which covers the fummit 
 of the mountain, we feemed tQ be in a val- 
 ley, enormous ridges of rock rifmg on ei- 
 ther fide, fome of which appear to bear the 
 fnows of ages. It was from this point, the 
 beginning of the " defcenjte. 4& J&helles," 
 x 3 that
 
 310 LETTER LXII. 
 
 that we entered the fledge, in order to flide 
 down in the whimfical fafhion in ufage here, 
 when the fides of the mountain are incruft- 
 ed with fnow. A hundred travellers have 
 told you what this mode is, and by what 
 expedients and under what fears it is ef-? 
 fefted. I lhall not, however, be deterred 
 from telling you what I found it. You are 
 then to. imagine me feated in a fledge. To 
 this fledge are fattened two flicks pointed 
 with iron, in the form of a fhaft. The 
 guide feated in the front, by the afliftance 
 of thefe fhafts, and his feet, which are alfo 
 eminently ferviceable, haftens or retards the 
 motion of the machine, conduces it along 
 precipices with wonderful dexterity, and 
 makes, as occafion requires, yet oftener to 
 ihow his fkill, the mod fharp jind difficult 
 turns. In fome parts we defcended with 
 Vaft rapidity ; and the zig-zag courfe which 
 thefe ingenious conductors fometimes pur- 
 fued, in order to pafs each other on the way, 
 was really diverting. 
 
 This
 
 LETTER LXII. 3 u 
 
 This was a very pleafant as well as novel 
 defcent. The objects by which we glided 
 compofed an aflemblage of wild and gro- 
 tefque fcenery a torrent amongft thefe if- 
 fuing from the brow of that plain which 
 we had quitted, precipitated its ftream in 
 the form of a beautiful cafcade. Ten mi- 
 nutes brought us to the miferable village of 
 Ferriere, the regular defcent to which is 
 called an hour. The fledges were dif- 
 charged here as no longer ufeful, and the 
 remainder of the diftance to Novaleze per- 
 formed on foot. The whole of this defcent 
 is eftimated two hours or leagues, for time 
 and fpace ftand for each other in thefe coun- 
 tries; and thusreckoning the commencement 
 of the rife from Chamberri, the height which 
 isafcended by a track of twenty-five leagues, 
 is defcended in two. In this calculation, the 
 perpendicular height of the mountain maybe 
 reckoned at more than feven thoufand Eng- 
 Ufli feet. Our journey, though fatiguing, 
 Abounded in objects of curiofity and iiitereft. 
 * The
 
 3 i2 LETTER LXIJ. 
 
 The memory of the great hero who, 
 fand years ago, fought his way through this 
 valley, was frequently a prop to my declining 
 patience. What were our toils, in compa- 
 rifon of thofe fuftained by men who had to 
 fcale the towering rock under the preffure 
 of arms, expofed to the furly temped, with 
 no refources but the habit of combating 
 danger, and the hopes of future conqueft ! 
 While I was entering my fledge at the 
 point of defcent, I eyed the opening through 
 which Hannibal, probably, pointed out to 
 his exhaufted followers the fpoils that await- 
 ed them in the delightful plains of Lom- 
 bardy : for .all circumftances confpire to fix 
 the paflage of the Carthaginians into Italy 
 acrofs the Mont Cenis. The line of fepa- 
 ration between Savoy and Piedmont is the 
 little Doria, a ftream which rifes in the 
 Lake of Mont Genis, and afterwards unit- 
 ing with the great Doria, the waters of both 
 are borne to the Po, at a little diftance from 
 Turin. At Novaleze, our carnage difTecled 
 
 at
 
 LETTER LXII. 313 
 
 at Lannefbourg was very dexteroufly and 
 completely re-conftructed, a fubjecl: of 
 juft congratulation, when it is confidered 
 how much more difficult it is to reftore 
 than to deftroy. The courfe of the little 
 Doria conducted us to Suze, a town agree- 
 ably fituated, and in high reputation among 
 the' inhabitants on the northern fide of the 
 Alps ; who furnifhed us with no article of 
 luxury or convenience, but what they pre- 
 tended to import from the fruitful treafures 
 of Suze. This town has the reputation of 
 being founded by Pompey. A triumphal 
 arch is among the monuments of antiquity 
 which it ftill preferves, and which is by 
 Gruter carried up to the time of Tiberius. 
 Our equipage pafled rapidly through this 
 place, in order to reach the inhofpitable vil- 
 lage of St. Ambroife j but in this the con- 
 venience of the horfes was much more con- 
 fulted than that of their matters, the flages 
 of our journey being regulated by the diftri- 
 frution of the pofls.
 
 LETTER LXIII. 
 
 E road in pafling from Rivoli, the laft 
 village on the route to Turin, gra- 
 dually opens into a confiderable width, and 
 announces with much magnificence the ap- 
 proach to a great capital. Turin cannot 
 be too handfomely fpoken of as a town. 
 Regularity and beauty are terms appropriate 
 to its character, I was extremely diverted 
 by the appearance of the inhabitants. Drefs, 
 air, countenance, and language were full 
 of novelty. Etiquette here holds fovereign 
 fway. I faw numbers, whofe thread-bare 
 fuit could fcarcely maintain its place, fqueez- 
 ing with the utmoft formality a chapean 
 Iras a burnifhed fword vibrating by their 
 fide. 
 
 Turin wears all the marks of a vigilant 
 police. Every quarter of the town is tran-r 
 
 quil
 
 LETTER LXIII. 315 
 
 quil in the night. I went the morning af- 
 ter my arrival to view the palace. His Sar- 
 dinian majefty was there, and we could not 
 be admitted till he (hould fet off for his 
 maifon de ChaJJe. The firing of guns, and 
 the beating of drums, fhortly announced his 
 majefty's intention of quitting the palace. 
 All who were on the fpot drew themfelves 
 up in order and formed an alley, through 
 which his majefty and his fuite pafled. This 
 obtained me a fight of the monarch ; but 
 the fqueeze was fo great, that I had little 
 leifure to take cognizance of the royal fea- 
 tures. 
 
 I am not in general very curious in exa- 
 mining the interior of palaces, except fo far 
 as they are reputed to enclofe the works and 
 monuments of art. I was however unex- 
 pectedly gratified in this inftance, by the 
 uncommon fplendor and rich decorations 
 of the apartments. The number of them 
 was prodigious, and they formed a laby- 
 yinth almoft as intricate as that of Crete. I 
 
 fliall
 
 316 LETTER LXIII. 
 
 {hall only mention a few of thofe rarities which 
 ftruck me raoft forcibly : Victor Amadeus, 
 an equeftrian ftatue. This monarch him- 
 ielf, in bronze, is mounted upon a horfe of 
 marble, trampling upon the bodies of flaves 
 in chains, with all the wild barbarity of a 
 conqueror and a tyrant. One (lands afto- 
 nifhed at the corruption of that mind, which 
 can find a feaft in fuch bafe and unfeeling 
 adulation. " Parcere fubjectis," was the 
 favourite maxim of Henry IV. of France ; 
 and the arts are miferably degraded, when 
 they are employed to celebrate the abettor, 
 rather than the vanquifher of tyranny, and 
 to immortalize him who impofes, rather 
 than him who breaks the chains of fervi- 
 tude. The four feafons, by Albani, were 
 curious objects of fpeculation. There ap- 
 peared to enter much ingenious compofition 
 into thefe works of the pencil, and you will 
 readily perceive, that a fine imagination can 
 alone embody thofe phantoms of the mind. 
 I know not whether Albani has executed 
 i thefe
 
 LETTER LXIII. 3I7 
 
 thefe pieces as well as he ought ; but I can- 
 not conceive how he could have executed 
 them better. The portrait of Charles I. of 
 England, and his children, is a finemorceau, 
 from the animated pencil of Vandyke. But 
 my attention was very highly engaged by 
 a fmall groupe which paries for the chef 
 d^euvre of Gerard Dow. The fubject is a 
 dropfical woman feated in a chair. The 
 phyfician is examining the water. The 
 maid fervant is at the fame time adminifter- 
 ing a fpoonful of phyfic to the patient ; and 
 calling her eye upon the afflicted daughter 
 at her mother's knee. Every circumftance, 
 the moft minute, is exprefled with an accu- 
 racy, and a fmifh, which furpaffes concep- 
 tion. This piece is faid to have coft the 
 late king twenty thoufand livres.
 
 LETTER LXIV. 
 
 , like age, is garrulous j 
 
 and merely to fee, without relating, is 
 but to have half feen. I have made my 
 debut as an Italian connoifTeur, and am 
 now about to appear in my new character of 
 an antiquary. My knowledge is about equal 
 in the one and the other fcience ; but a man 
 cannot travel fouth of the Alps, without 
 either being, or becoming fo much of both, 
 as to take off that ilupid ftare with which a 
 perfect novice regards the works of art. 
 
 From the palace of his Sardinian majefty 
 we went to the univerfity, fituated in that 
 very handfome ftreet, the Strada di Po. 
 The univerfity is announced by a portico, 
 bearing the infcription, " Regium Athe- 
 " nseum," and confifts of an extenfive range 
 of buildings, comprehending various ob-
 
 LETTER LXIV. 319 
 
 jects ; among which the " Mufeo del Re," 
 or " the King's Mufseum," was pointed 
 out to us as an object of importance to tra- 
 vellers. This Mufseum forms indeed a very 
 extenfive and valuable collection of antiques 
 in every kind, ftatues, bulls, and ancient 
 fragments. Among a great variety of ele- 
 gant works in bronze, were a delicious little 
 figure of Venus in the whimfical attitude of 
 cutting her toe-nails : this is executed with 
 the moft perfect accuracy and beauty. The 
 famous Tripod, which contracts or increafes 
 its dimenfions at pleafure. A foot of a 
 horfe of the natural iize, of the moft exqui- 
 fite execution : this, together with the leg 
 of a man, fuppofed to be its rider, were 
 purchafed by accident of a founder who 
 had employed the other parts to make bells, 
 and was about to convert thefe precious 
 relics to the fame ufe. There are alfo fomc 
 thunders of Jupiter, which yet retain ftrong 
 veftiges of the brilliant gold with which 
 they once glittered : to thefe muft be added, 
 5 vafe*
 
 320 LETTER LXIV. 
 
 vafes of filver, and fepulchral lamps, in all 
 the forms which ingenuity could fupply. 
 
 The collection of Egyptian antiquities is 
 alfo extremely curious and valuable : nume- 
 rous penates, talifmans, ckc. are here depo- 
 fited. The objects which were held up as 
 of the greateft eftimation, were, " a head of 
 " Ifis, and the Ifiac table." The firft is of 
 bronze admirably executed, and covered 
 with hieroglyphics. The fecond, or Ifiac 
 table, is confidered as one of the moft pre- 
 cious monuments of ancient times, which 
 Italy preferves. It is of red copper, nearly 
 four feet long, and fomething more than two 
 in width. Ifis, who is reprefented fitting, 
 forms the principal figure in this table, 
 which thence derives its name. She is fup- 
 plied with two bulls horns as fymbols of 
 fecundity. It appears to have been, in its 
 original ftate, adorned with filver plates, as 
 fome of thefe ornaments ftill remain ; and 
 it is like the head of Ifis before named, and, 
 indeed, any relic of Egyptian origin, co* 
 
 vered
 
 LETTER LXIV. 3 zi 
 
 vered with hieroglyphics. This myfterlous 
 table has furnimed a wide field of difcuffion, 
 and enquiry for the learned, to whom hie- 
 roglyphics yet continue an inexplicable lan- 
 guage. Themoft rational opinion yet offered, 
 refpe&ing the defign of this table, is, that 
 the Egyptians, who came to fettle in Italy, 
 formed it, in order that the epocha of their 
 worfhip, their ceremonies, habits of their 
 priefts, &c. might not pafs' into oblivion. 
 This folves, however, no part of thofe myf- 
 terious fymbols which croud the table ; for, 
 after all the efforts of antiquarian refearch, 
 or happy conjecture, the Egyptian conti- 
 nues, in refpedt to his hieroglyphics, yet 
 mafter of the field. 
 
 The collection of medals appeared to be 
 numerous and well arranged ; the greater 
 part of thefe, and of the valuable antiques 
 in general, with which this mufseum 
 abounds, were taken from the ruins of 
 " Induftria," a well-known colony of the 
 Romans, whofe fcite and veftiges were not 
 
 VOL. i. y difco-
 
 322 LETTER LXV. 
 
 difcovered till the year 1745* The atten- 
 dant at this mufasum was an Abbe, intel- 
 ligent and polite, who declined any gra- 
 .tuity offered, as contrary to ufage. The 
 flranger is, however, permitted to indulge 
 his liberality to the fervants at the door, the 
 objects of whofe bows and forward civilities 
 cannot eafily be. miftaken. 
 
 I thought to have drawn the curtain upon 
 Turin in this letter, but the mufeum has 
 carried me beyond the bounds I had pre- 
 fcribed, and I have too much refpect for the 
 Italian opera to mention it in a poftfcript. 
 
 LETTER LXV. 
 
 E Italian opera is the touchftone of 
 fafhion ; and no man, who has any 
 regard for his reputation, would venture to 
 diflike what good breeding obliges him to 
 approve. The ferious Italian opera is, in 
 
 the
 
 LETTER LXV. 323 
 
 the judgment of profeffional men, better 
 prefented on theEnglifti than upon the Ita- 
 lian ftage. This arifes from the liberal en- 
 couragement given to all the fingers of repu- 
 tation, and from the very expenfive deco- 
 rations which thefe exhibitions receive in a 
 country whofe refources and prodigality 
 feem to keep equal pace with each other. 
 
 The Buffo, or Comic Opera, is that 
 which a ftranger will vifit to moft advan- 
 tage in Italy, this being the fpecies of com- 
 pofition in which modern fmgularities are 
 held up to ridicule; while the ferious opera 
 reforts to fome tale of ancient hiftory, 
 choofmg, for the moft part, that into which 
 the greateft number of fplendid characters 
 can enter. I went, the evening after my 
 arrival at Turin, to the Theatre di Carig- 
 nano, and was agreeably entertained with a 
 comic reprefentation of La Serva Inamorata. 
 My knowledge of Italian is as yet but very 
 flenden neverthelefs, without underftand- 
 ing any confiderable portion of the dialogue, 
 Y 2 I found
 
 3 24 LETTER LXV. 
 
 I found an excellent fcholium in the gefture, 
 play of the mufcles, and mufical expreffion, 
 with which the whole was accompanied. 
 To judge from the only two fpecimens I 
 have as yet had, the Italians have a very 
 extraordinary talent at mufical inflection 
 upon fubjetts of humour ; and can render, 
 with the greatefl effect, by artificial modu- 
 lation, the eafy familiarities of colloquial 
 tvit. On a foreign ftage the fame freedom 
 is not felt, becaufe it is with reafon fup- 
 pofed, that what will be ill underftood 
 where humour is concerned, cannot be 
 highly relimed ; and every attempt to me- 
 thodize or accommodate, muft in fuch cafes 
 deftroy thofe features of nature which he 
 who fludies mankind would wifh princi- 
 pally to find. 
 
 Italian dancing has been frequently com- 
 mented upon with great feverity : and in- 
 deed, the meafure of cenfure has never yet 
 reached the demerit of the performance* 
 Such outrageous (Irides, jumps, and fo- 
 
 merfets,
 
 LETTER LXVI. 325 
 
 merfets, I never before had witneflfed, as 
 were exhibited in the ballets annexed to 
 the operas. The dance formed a direct 
 contraft to the fong, and produced in me as 
 lively emotions of difguft, as it did in the 
 audience of applaufe. A dance of favages 
 round a cannibal banquet could not have 
 been more wild and extravagant. I could 
 not but feel aftonifhed, that a people, who 
 excel fo decidedly in the arts of mufical ex- 
 preflion, fhould judge {p corruptly on a 
 fubjecl: which appears to turn upon prin- 
 ciples fo nearly analogous. 
 
 LETTER LXVI, 
 
 T HAVE fpoken with fufficient emphafis of 
 * the general beauty of Turin, arid I 
 ought to add, that the details will not fuffer 
 by examination. They reckon no churches 
 in this capital, of which many are of great 
 architectural beauty. 
 
 y 3 The
 
 326 LETTER LXVI. 
 
 The place or fqtiare which precedes the 
 palace prefents a magnificent appearance. 
 Eight ftreets there concentre ; and conti- 
 nued arcades, or piazzas, favour the expofi- 
 tion of every kind of merchandize. The 
 place San Carlo divides, at nearly its centre, 
 the Strada Nuova, and adds confiderably to 
 the fplendour of the city. The promenades 
 are delicious. They confift in an efplanade 
 between the town and the citadel, and alfo 
 in a beautiful diftribution of the ramparts. 
 The ftreets are for the mofl part wide, 
 clean, and regular 1 ; and many of the houfes 
 are conftruded upon a grand fcale. 
 
 The Po, near the city, appears not yet to 
 have recovered from the commotion into 
 which the mufe of Ovid has thrown it. 
 Addifon tells us, on the authority of fome 
 botanifts, that larch-trees, and not poplars, 
 are thofe which fhed a gum, and are found 
 on the banks of the Po. And Apollonius 
 could not have been very accurate when he 
 tells us, that the thunderbolt of Jupiter fo 
 
 affeded
 
 LETTER LXVI. 327 
 
 affected the waters, as to render it fatal to 
 a bird to fly acrofs the ftreara. But this 
 was a favourite image with the poets ; and 
 the lake of Avernus was not efteemed by 
 Virgil fufficiently corrupt without this qua- 
 lity. There is a pleafure of no common 
 magnitude in contemplating thofe realities 
 which have been wrought by claffic fancy 
 into fuch fplendid vifions, It would afford 
 a ftill higher pleafure, if it were pofiible to 
 diveft them completely of the veil which 
 covers them; for after all that Hefiod, Apol- 
 lodorus, and ftill more rationally Ariftotle, 
 and others, who have improved upon this 
 fyftem,have taught us, the fable of Phaeton, 
 and the combuftion he occafioned, is one 
 among thofe amufmg myfteries whofe ma- 
 chinery is enchanting, whofe moral is ob- 
 vious, but whofe precife meaning has pe- 
 rifhed with the records of the times. 
 
 The fpirit of trade feems to be very active, 
 
 at Turin, if any judgment may be formed 
 
 from the lively buftle of the ftreets. Ar- 
 
 y 4 tides
 
 328 LETTER LXVI. 
 
 tides of Englifh manufacture are vended in 
 every part of the town, and a very confi- 
 derable traffic is reported here to be carried 
 on with Great Britain. How greatly is 
 the ftate of empires changed fince Virgil 
 pronounced the Britons " penitus toto di* 
 ** vifos orbe ?" I am aware that their in- 
 fular fituation formed a part of that fenti- 
 ment; but the very ftriking contraft which 
 modern Britain prefents to the more ge- 
 neral conftruction of the expreflion, I am 
 called upon continually to remark. Bria- 
 reus-like, fhe now extends her hundred 
 arms over the different diftrids of the con- 
 tinent, and maintains, by the vigour of her 
 commerce, and the extent of her political 
 influence, a ccnne&ion with every nation of 
 the globe.
 
 LETTER LXVII. 
 
 Feliflano, Nov. u, 1791. 
 
 A T the end of two days journey, we have 
 got into a miferable village, and though 
 {hivering with an aguifti cold, contracted 
 amidft the fnow of Mount Cenis, I mail 
 endeavour, by attention to my journal, to 
 forget my maladies. Imperious circum- 
 fiances, rather than choice, fhortened my 
 ftay at Turin; and as I had forefeen that 
 our departure might be precipitate, I had 
 availed myfelf of every opportunity to gra- 
 tify my curiofity upon objects of intereft 
 and information. Being either too little or 
 too great to quit without notice the capital 
 of Piedmont, in attempting to crofs the 
 bridge over the Po, we were fuddenly com- 
 manded to halt, and take off a pair of horfes, 
 it being contrary to the eftablimed rules of 
 the place to fuffer one man to drive out 
 c four
 
 330 LETTER LXVII. 
 
 four horfes. ' This was rather a trial of 
 pride than of patience, for the remainder of 
 the town was of no great length ; and our 
 horfes being again put to, we proceeded in 
 quiet pace along the banks of the Po. 
 
 It was morning, and all that remained of 
 dying vegetation was illumined by a clear 
 and temperate funmine. Although the fea- 
 fon of the year has greatly abridged the 
 beauties of the fcenery, objects were not 
 wanting to infpire the landfcape with inte- 
 reft. A charming diftribution of country 
 villas covered a wide and variegated tract. 
 The Alps, at diftance, prefented their fnovvy 
 fummits in a vaft and ftupendous chain, 
 while befide us rolled in peaceful motion 
 the turbid waters of that ftream, confecrated 
 to claffic fame. Imagination was not idle 
 in thefe moments fo favourable to fancy. 
 All the fictions which had crowded my 
 childifla memory embodied themfelves be- 
 fore me ; and I feemed to be moving over 
 enchanted ground, till I arrived at Villa 
 
 Nuova.
 
 LETTER LXVII. 331 
 
 Nuova. I muft tell you, that I never yet 
 entered any town at fo late an hour. For 
 upon afking the padrone of the inn the time 
 of the day, he aflured me it was leaft 3 and 
 20 o'clock. 
 
 On remarking to our hoft that this was a 
 fmall village, he replied, with fome degree 
 of difpleafure, padrone I This word padrone 
 is a term of moft comprehenfive fignifica- 
 tion ; infomuch that I, who am but an /- 
 ceptor in the language, feel fome difficulty 
 in determining the intention of the party 
 by whom it happens to be ufed. In the 
 falutation of friends, I have obferved pa- 
 drone enquired on the one part, and the 
 fingle term padrone returned on the other; 
 and, in this cafe, it implies the " How do 
 " you do ?" and the " Pretty well, thank 
 " you," of the Engliftiman. But the fenfe 
 in which my hoft employed it was, as I have 
 fince underftood, a very common and a 
 very civil one j namely, " I beg your par- 
 " don.'* In order to imprefs me more 
 
 ilrongly
 
 33 i LETTER LXVII. 
 
 ftrongly with the importance of the place, 
 he added, that it contained a convent. I 
 was not quite fatisfied with this proof; but 
 fearing that my Italian might not bear me 
 out in the difpute, and dreading the confe- 
 quences of an attack upon the church, I fuf- 
 fered myfelf to be beaten out of the field. It 
 was in our plan of this day's journey to reach 
 Ale{randria,biit the inevitable fiownefs of our 
 pace, from the extreme badnefs of the road, 
 and the counfel of an old man, who was 
 queftioned upon the remaining diftance, 
 determined us to ftop at FelifTano for the 
 night. Two beds of ftraw, with fcanty 
 coverlids, juft leave fpace for a ricketty table, 
 upon which my pen is now moving ; and 
 the chilling winds, which enter by the pa- 
 pered cafement, are playing moft wantonly 
 about my fhoulders. 
 
 If ever you fhould be tempted to crofs 
 the Mont Cenis, at a period when the 
 fnows are almoft knee-deep, and one or 
 both of your boots may happen to admit 
 
 water,
 
 LETTER LXVIII. 333 
 
 water, let me caution you not to exchange 
 your carriage for your feet. A raging fe- 
 ver of laft night, and a thoufand aches and 
 ftiiverings all this day, enable me to afliire 
 you that the pains attending on fuch indi- 
 cretion, are as fevere as thofe which punifti 
 fome of the moft important follies of human 
 eccentricity. 
 
 LETTER LXVIII. 
 
 Cafle! San Giovanni, Nov. 13, 179 1, 
 
 R hoft at FeliiTano made up in atten- 
 tion, for the deficiences of his mifer- 
 able accommodations. Aleflandria, through 
 which we pafled in our road to Tortona, 
 detained us no longer than was neceflary 
 to procure a dinner, for which we paid at a 
 rate which left no room for regret on the 
 part of the landlord. The country from 
 Aleflandria is for the moft part flat, and ia 
 
 a ftate
 
 334. LETTER LXVIIL 
 
 a ftate of high cultivation to Tortona, where 
 
 we arrived in the evening. 
 
 I am not in the habits of retailing the ar- 
 ticles of provifions which I find on the way, 
 but our yefterday's fare may ferve as a fpe- 
 cimen of what I am given to underftand is 
 confidered as an excellent Italian fupper. 
 A dim of macaroni was our firft fervire. 
 This was followed by a faucer containing 
 fome fcraped parmefan. A plate was then 
 introduced with fome morfels of pigs liver, 
 and a fecond adorned with omelettes and 
 garlick. Three fmall birds, and a hand- 
 fome defert, clofed this petit fouper^ which, 
 however deficient in weight and eflentials, 
 may, in the language of the Latins, be at 
 leaft allowed to have been " numeris abfo- 
 " luta fuis." 
 
 Horace has told us of fome meals in his 
 time, in which variety appears to have been 
 not lefs confulted. Nafidienus's fupper made 
 certainly a better figure ; and was on that 
 account more deferving of recital : but I 
 
 thjnk
 
 LETTER LXVIII. 335 
 
 tliink that, taken upon a fmall fcale, the 
 gufto of antient times is not badly preferved 
 in the modern arts of Italian catering. As 
 I have brought Horace upon the ftage, in 
 vindication of my bill of fare, I fhall make 
 him do me another fervice before I difmifs 
 him. His vifits to Msecenas were frequent, 
 and their repafts convivial. Some animat- 
 ing topic had engaged him at one of thefe 
 " no&es coenseque Deuin ;" and inattentive 
 to the objects of fenfe, which were doubt- 
 lefs fet before him in profufion, he impru- 
 dently fwallowed >fome garlick. How he 
 felt upon that occafion, his mufe has ara- 
 phatically told us. My feelings are fo per- 
 fectly in unifon with his, upon all that re- 
 lates to this naufeous vegetable, that though 
 I am not prepared to confider it as a fuffi- 
 cient punifhment for the crime of parricide, 
 yet I can never fee it cordially digefted 
 without exclaiming, 
 
 O dura mefforum Ilia ! 
 
 6
 
 E 336 ] 
 
 LETTER LXIX. 
 
 Piacenza, Nov. 14, 1781. 
 
 A VERY diverting Signora, who attended 
 upon us at Tortona, gave us the firft 
 fpecimen of the, Italian face, fuch, at leaft, 
 as I have been taught to expert it. It is 
 not beauty, or rather it is not lovelinefs ; 
 but it poflefles great fymmetry, and there is 
 much in it to excite admiration. I re- 
 marked to the Signora that the town muft 
 be dull, as I underftood from her that it 
 could boaft no theatre. She replied, that at 
 prefent there was indeed but one battalion 
 of foldiers at Tortona, but that their ufual 
 compliment was three. One was gone off 
 towards France, and another into Savoy. 
 I found by this, that a red coat was not 
 without its charms beyond the Alps ; and 
 that the Signoras of Italy were of an opi- 
 nion.
 
 LETTER LXIX. 337 
 
 iuon, not peculiar to this country, that 
 " where troops were quartered, there could 
 " be no want of amufement." 
 
 Our journey from Tortona to Caflel San 
 Giovanni, where we flopped laft night, 
 brought the Apennines before us : but the 
 country is in general fo flat, as to furnifh 
 little variety. I would not fay, of any part 
 of Italy, that it is uninterefting. It was the 
 theatre of all that is great in hiftory for 
 many ages ; and not a fpot of it exifts that 
 has not been the feat of fome celebrated 
 event. The claflic enthufiafm of Mr. Ad- 
 difon was able to difcover fome veftiges of 
 its antient grandeur, even in the rudeft parts 
 of this country. " There is," fays he, 
 " fcarce any part of the nation that is not 
 " famous in hiftory, nor fo much as a 
 " mountain or river that has not been the 
 " fcene of fome extraordinary action." I 
 could however learn nothing of Caftel San 
 Giovanni from any of its inhabitants. The 
 place feemed funk in wretchednefs and po- 
 
 VOL. i. z vertyj
 
 338 LETTER LXIX. 
 
 verty ; yet an old wall, mouldering into 
 ruins, appeared to commemorate fome loft 
 importance. The ftrolling ecclefiaftics, of 
 whom I enquired refpecting thofe ruins, 
 could give me no information, though they 
 appeared to have fufficient leifure for anti- 
 quarian ftudies. No lefs than eight churches 
 and three convents were enumerated in con- 
 fequence of my enquiries; and notwith- 
 ftanding the deplorable wretchednefs which 
 covered the inhabitants, it was eafy to fee 
 that the honour in their eftimation out- 
 weighed the burden. 
 
 Indeed, I could not but be ftrongly im- 
 prefled with this infatuation, upon pafling 
 a few minutes in their cathedral. It was 
 curious to obferve the contrail that appeared 
 between the worfhippers and their fhrines. 
 While the one were covered with rags, the 
 other were ifiVefted with coflly ornaments. 
 Columns of marble fupported the altars, 
 while the thread-bare cloke fcarcely covered 
 thofe who knelt and crawled around it. On 
 
 the
 
 LETTER LXIX. 339 
 
 the one, precious odours were afcending in 
 votive clouds ; from the other, proceeded 
 only the vile fcent of garlick. Yet the 
 countenance of the worfhipper fpoke a 
 fentiment above content. He eyed, with 
 fomething more than complacency, the 
 range of coftly ftatues which enkindled his 
 devotion, and feemed to forget the depth 
 of his mifery in the fervor of his prayers. 
 How ftrong is the grafp of fuperftition, 
 when it has once fattened upon its victim ! 
 The comforts of life really feemed to thefe 
 deluded people, a very mean price for the 
 religious trumpery they received in ex- 
 change, and the privilege of worshipping 
 at a golden altar : content to exift upon 
 macaroni, and to ftretch their bodies upon 
 beds of ftraw, provided their faints and 
 demi-gods may feed upon frankincenfe, 
 and inhabit fhrines of alabafter ! 
 
 Z 2
 
 [ 54* I 
 
 LETTER LXX, 
 
 Parma, Nov. 15, 1791. 
 
 T KNOW not how a town can be viewed to 
 lefs advantage than during a fall of un- 
 decided rain. By undecided rain, I mean 
 that diftillation which fcatters a dufky mid 
 over all the works of art. Such was the 
 itate of the atmofphere upon my arrival 
 and during my ftay at Piacenza ; and per- 
 haps it is to this that I owe the impreffion of 
 dullnefs which I have brought away with 
 me from that town. It is not, however, 
 without its ornaments. 
 
 The Piazza Publico (which is a fquare) 
 partakes of the grand; it is difficult, how* 
 ever, to be fatisfied with more than one of 
 its fides. Two noble equeftrian ftatues 
 commemorate in bronze, at two angles of 
 this fquare, the virtues of Aleflandro I. and 
 
 his
 
 LETTER LXX. 34I 
 
 his fon. I ought to have admired, as books 
 inftruct me, the painted cupola of the ca- 
 thedral ; but, alas ! the height of the cupola, 
 and the gloom of the cathedral, had ravifhed 
 thofe beauties from my fight. I was ob- 
 liged to content rnyfelf with gazing upon 
 an object which had the advantage of a 
 better light I mean the dial ; as this was 
 the firft I had obferved defcribed after the 
 Italian method of keeping time, and pre- 
 fenting on one circumference the twenty*, 
 four hours of the day. I was very much 
 pleafed with a fmall painting of the Virgin 
 and Child in a glafs frame, and hung over 
 one of the altars in the church of St. 
 Francifco il Grande ; it had fo much in it 
 of fweetn-efs and nature, that I cannot but 
 hazard a word in its praife, though I have 
 not yet found it in that lift which travellers 
 are inftrudted to admire. A very elegant 
 altar in the fame church attracted my par- 
 ticular curiofity ; it was defigned with art, 
 and fmifhed with beauty. The richeft 
 z 3 marble,
 
 342 LETTER LXX, 
 
 marble, and the pureft alabafter, were here 
 expended with equal fymmetry and profu- 
 fion. I was anxious to know what Saint 
 or Martyr claimed this altar. If it were 
 my lot to be canonized, I know not a 
 fhrine I fhould more earneftly covet. A 
 little invocation, and fome few infcriptions, 
 foon led me to its lawful claimant, who ' 
 was no lefs a perfonage than St. Anthony, 
 the great apoftle to the fifties. All the 
 good things in the province of Milan feem 
 confecrated to this powerful Saint, whofe 
 head- quarters are at Padua. He was 
 fpoken of in very high terms upon the 
 tablets which beftrewed this altar, and re- 
 prefented as very dear to Jefus Chrift, and 
 a great favourite of the Holy Virgin. 
 
 The church of San Agoftino is a rifing 
 ornament to the town of Piacenza, and 
 promifes to end in a building of great tafte 
 and beauty. The fide aides are fitted up in 
 a very elegant ftile, and the new front 
 which it is now receiving, r prefents the out- 
 line
 
 LETTER LXXI. 343 
 
 line of a noble fagade. The Auguftines, 
 to whom this church belongs, are in pof- 
 feflion of vaft property. It is at their ex- 
 pence that this church is now receiving its 
 finiih. " The fayade^'.faid an old mendi- 
 cant, " has already cofl 14,000 fechins." 
 " What then," faid I, " thefe gentlemen 
 " are rich?" " Rich!" faid he, " richif- 
 u fimi-fono i noftri principi." 
 
 As the diftance from Piacenza to Parma 
 was not confiderable, we pafled from thence 
 in the afternoon, and entered Parma in the 
 dufk of the evening. The country in the 
 whole of this route was delectable ; not a 
 rood of ground was to be feen, but what 
 poflefled the higheft degree of cultivation. 
 
 LETTER LXXI. 
 
 Parma, Nov. \6, 1791. 
 
 TV/TV fpeculations of to-day upon the cu 
 
 riofities of this place have been fo 
 
 extenfive, that though I burn with impa- 
 
 Z 4 tience
 
 344 LETTER LXXI. 
 
 tience to communicate, I fcarcely know 
 whether the late hour at which I attempt 
 this fketch will allow me to complete my 
 report. It was a grand day at the cathe- 
 dral, fo that I had the pleafure of hearing 
 high mafs performed. The church of San 
 Giovanni Evangelifta, which I next entered, 
 was very highly ornamented, and the pencil 
 of Correggio has pourtrayed upon its cu- 
 pola fome animated figures; that of St. 
 John is eminently beautiful. 
 
 The academy afforded me a large field of 
 amufement. A variety of mifcellaneous 
 paintings and defigns is here preferved, 
 and fome curious fragments of antiquity ; 
 amongft which was a very noble head of 
 Jupiter. But the principal ornament of 
 this academy, and one of the greateft orna- 
 ments of Europe I might add, is the chef 
 d^aeuvre of Correggio preferved here with 
 great care, and ftill in high prefervation. 
 The groupe is formed by the Virgin, who 
 has the Infant in her lap. Mary Magda- 
 len
 
 LETTER LXXI. 34S 
 
 len is to the left of her, having her head 
 reclined. St. Jerome, an angel, and the 
 Infant Baptift, enter into the compofition, 
 and a more exquifite production never 
 iflued from the fchool of painting. I did 
 not think it poffible for imagination to 
 pourtray a countenance of fuch delicacy, 
 grace, and fweetnefs. She feemed to be 
 occupied in affection, veneration, and rap- 
 ture. Thefe paffions were blended like the 
 mellow colours of the immortal painter 
 into the happieft unity. The bold figure 
 of St. Jerome, the attitude, the folidity and 
 fainted gravity of his countenance, com- 
 pofed a ftriking counter-part to thefe fofter 
 paffions. The infant was vivacious and 
 benign. The Magdalen penfive and de- 
 jeded ; melancholy veiled the full luftre of 
 her countenance, and preferved the pro- 
 prieties of her character. The angel was 
 what an angel mould I had almoft faid, all 
 that an angel can be. Such is this won- 
 derful painting. If I might make fo free 
 9 with
 
 34 6 LETTER LXXL 
 
 with the terms of art, I would fay, that it 
 has all that foftnefs, finifh, keeping, and 
 vigour can contribute to animate the works 
 of the pencil. Days and years might be 
 fpent in admiring it; and genius might 
 exhauft the power of language in its praife. 
 A copy is now taking of this inimitable 
 groupe, which promifes to catch fome por- 
 tion of its fpirit. But, alas! fuch are the 
 imperious limits of this art, that no tran- 
 fcript can be made of its excellencies ; and 
 the pencil of the artift can alone perpetuate 
 his own fame. 
 
 The theatre which joins the academy is 
 Sufficiently known as a building of wood, 
 particularly conftructed for the conveyance 
 of found without echo or confufion ; and 
 reports of travellers are perfectly correct 
 as to this fact : for upon experiment made 
 in a whifper at one end, the words were 
 diftindly heard at the other. The form of 
 the theatre is light and elegant. It is now, 
 however, falling into decay, and the fole
 
 LETTER LXXI. 347 
 
 ufe to which it is at prefent applied, is 
 the occafional exhibition of Naumachiss, 
 for which the arena is very conveniently 
 adapted. I could defcant upon a fecond 
 production of Correggio's, to which I was 
 introduced after quitting the academy, but 
 I am fearful that my epithets would fcarcely 
 hold out through another defcription ; and, 
 indeed, to fpeak the truth, it fucceeded the 
 other too rapidly to find a particle of admi- 
 ration difengaged. 
 
 I have been relaxing this evening at the 
 theatre, being previoufly acquainted that a 
 tragedy of Shakefpeare's would be per- 
 formed, and wifhing to know in what 
 manner our immortal bard would be han- 
 dled by thefe cognofcenti. The tragedy was 
 nothing lefs than Amletto (Hamlet) ; and, 
 alas ! my poor countryman has feldom 
 fallen into worfe hands, fince Voltaire at* 
 tempted to tranflate him. The jokes and 
 the idle play of words which were the fide- 
 arms of this poet, were all that this caterer 
 
 for
 
 348 LETTER LXXL 
 
 for the Italian ftage had relifhed or im- 
 derftood. Thefe were lavifhed, and not 
 without effect, upon the audience, who 
 feemed to have taken the whole for a bur- 
 lefque, and expreffed their approbation of 
 thefe flights of humour with tremendous 
 peals of applaufe. It was only in fome 
 moment when Hamlet himfelf occupied the 
 ftage, that any thing like gravity appeared 
 in the houfe. Then, indeed, a call of fi^ 
 lence was raifed and echoed from different 
 parts, and attention was erect till Hamlet, 
 who was drafted in black, and brandifhed a 
 white handerchief in his hand, had done 
 ranting. So much for Italian tragedy. 
 
 It is painful to fee fuch inattention to the 
 convenience of travelling in countries of 
 fuch wealth and fertility. A fmall deduc- 
 tion from the palace would clear the pea~ 
 fant's path. Almoft all the rivers in thefe 
 opulent duchies, are deftitute of bridges, and 
 fome are not pafled in ferry-boats without 
 danger.
 
 t 349 J 
 
 LETTER LXXIL 
 
 Bologna, Nor. 18, 1791. 
 
 T TPON commencing our route to Modena, 
 we entered upon the old ^milian way. 
 I amufed myfelf, during this part of our 
 journey, with reading a letter of Pliny to 
 Trajan, in which he mentions the Cura 
 Viae jEmilise as an object of great advan- 
 tage, and thanks the Emperor for having 
 given the appointment to a friend of his. 
 It was fome addition to this train of plea- 
 furable images to be informed, that on pafT- 
 ing through Reggio, I was viewing a place 
 which, befides its antient fame, was revered 
 as the birth-place of Ariofto. Modena is a 
 delicious town, and has every advantage of 
 buildings and fituation. Taflbni, in his 
 poem of the Secchia Rapita y has given a 
 
 very
 
 3so LETTER 
 
 very animated and juft defcription of this 
 his native place : 
 
 " Modana Siede in una gran pianura," &c. 
 
 The cathedral is rather fmgular than 
 handfome, and fufficiently fombre for all the 
 purpofes of occult devotion. One of thofe 
 who ftand in the place of Levites, and ferve 
 about the altar, offered to conduct me to 
 fome obje&s of curiofity. They confifted 
 of a number of antient maufoleums, whofe 
 infcriptions were not difficult to decipher. 
 My guide was however fo intolerably ftupid, 
 that I got no information from him as to 
 their hiftory. They were all found in the 
 town, he affured mej and when I afked 
 him how long it was fmce their difcovery, 
 he talked to me of more centuries than I 
 fhould chufe to repeat. All that I could 
 draw from him was, that they were " tro- 
 " vati nel piazzo," (found in the fquare,) 
 " tranfportati qui,' J (conveyed here,) c< & 
 '/ tutti di marmore," (all of marble.) This 
 7 laft
 
 LETTER LXXII. 351 
 
 laft he repeated with great energy. He next 
 introduced me, having previoufly lighted 
 two candles, into a chapel, which he called 
 the Chapel of San Geminiano. 
 
 This faint, of whofe hiftory I cannot in- 
 form you, is in great eftimation amoBg the 
 Modanefe, as Petronius is at Bologna. Taf- 
 foni, in his poem before quoted, calls the 
 former Gemignani^ as he does the latter Pe- 
 tronj, from thefe refpe&ive faints : 
 
 " Che tolfero a' i Petronj, i Gemignani. 
 
 CANTO I. 
 
 This chapel was fufficiently curious. There 
 were two very well executed portraits in it. 
 I wifhed to know the artift, but the only- 
 anfwer I could get was " San Geminiano," 
 and *' tutto di marmore !" My guide now 
 led me to the back part of that monument, on 
 which the portraits were hung, and pointing 
 to a fmall door, refembling the entrance into 
 a vault, he rehearfed a hiflory refpdcling 
 it, which I was far from thoroughly com- 
 prehending. He fpoke of creeping and 
 
 crawling
 
 351 LETTER 
 
 crawling upon his knees, and accompanied 
 his words with geftures, which made me 
 conclude that this was the opening into 
 fome fubterraneotis pafTage. He afked me, 
 if I would enter it ? I made no objection ; 
 on which he unlocked the door, and point- 
 ed to the infide. I was furprifed on look- 
 ing, to find that it was but a fmall area un- 
 der the monument or vault, the roof of 
 which was fupported by fix or feven marble 
 pillars, at fuch intervals as to leave room 
 for a perfon to crawl on his knees. Upon 
 feeing me hold back, he explained the whole 
 of the myftery, by telling me " Chi vuoP 
 " obtenere una grazia di Dio bifogna fer- 
 " pere qui.'* (He who would obtain a bleff- 
 ing from God, muft creep through here.) 
 And Hooping down, I obferved that this 
 operation had actually worn a channel upon- 
 the marble. I afked him how long it had 
 been the fafhion to creep among thefe pil- 
 lars ? He told me, five hundred years. 
 Whether his chronology was accurate or 
 
 not,
 
 LETTER tXXit. 353 
 
 not, I had no opportunity to afcertain. 
 The man feemed not a little aftonifhed at 
 my retiring without making this religious 
 tour. Unfortunately he detained me fo 
 long in his recital of miracles performed at 
 this tomb, and in the exhibition of a moft 
 marvellous and wonder-working crucifix, 
 that I loft the opportunity of feeing the 
 Seccbia, which is preferved among the ar- 
 chives of this cathedral. 
 
 It pafles for a fpecies of miracle, that the 
 mere theft of a bucket fhould become the 
 foundation of a war ; and it does at firfl 
 fight prefent a fubjedt of furprife, that the 
 blood of nations mould be fpilt for '* un 
 " infelice e vil fecchia di legno." It is 
 however to be feared, that in reviewing the 
 wars of Europe, too many cafes will be 
 found, in which fo valid a pretext, cannot 
 be afligned for the efFufion of human blood. 
 
 VOL. i. A A
 
 [ 354 ] 
 
 LETTER LXXIII. 
 
 Florence, Nov. zi. 
 
 T>OLOGNA is a town, the remembrance of 
 whofe beauties will not readily be ef- 
 faced from my mind ; and yet I have feen 
 fo fmall a portion of them, and been com- 
 pelled to take fo rapid and curfory a glance, 
 that I almoft blufh to attempt any thing like 
 an enumeration of its curiofities. 
 
 The churches are ufually in all places the 
 firft object of attention : and I had heard 
 fo much of the celebrity of St. Luke at Bo- 
 logna, that I immediately, requefted to be 
 conducted thither. The path to this church 
 is, a continual afcent; but pilgrims of all 
 ages, and labouring under whatever infir- 
 mities, feemed to tread it without reluc- 
 tance or fatigue. The church bears the 
 name of the Madonna di San Luca, from 
 
 the
 
 LETTER LXXIII. 355 
 
 the famous portrait of the Virgin, painted 
 by the hand of the Evangelift, and which it 
 is the boaft and glory of the Bolognefe to 
 poflefs. A portico of three miles conducts 
 the pilgrim to this object of adoration. This 
 portico has confiderable beauty,, and ftili 
 more convenience, as it affords at once the 
 means of fhelter and of reft. It was raifed 
 by voluntary contribution ; fix hundred and 
 forty-eight arcades compofe the whole 
 range ; all of xvhich were built at different 
 periods by the zealous devotion of private 
 perfons, or different corporations, and they 
 were conftructed in reference to each other, 
 fo as now to compofe an uniform piazza to 
 the entrance of the church, adorned with 
 frefcoes, fome of which have no fmall 
 merit. 
 
 The church is an elegant building, and 
 bears on its walls fome tablets, commemora- 
 tive of miracles performed by this marvel- 
 lous picture. This ineftimable treafure is 
 provokingly covered with a cafe, ornamented 
 A A 2 with
 
 356 LETTER LXXIII. 
 
 "with jewels, and different offerings of devo* 
 tion ; fo that I could only judge of St. 
 Luke's pencil by its miraculous effects. 
 A firing of beads, which I purchased to ef- 
 cape the fufpicion of herefy, entitled me to 
 a little tracl:, written by the Abbe' Calindri, 
 from which I learned the very high value 
 fet upon this precious depofit, the folemnity 
 with which it is venerated at Bologna, and 
 the innumerable benefits which have been 
 derived by this city from its refidence 
 among them. The Abbe, fpeaking of the 
 annual ceremony of carrying this image in 
 proceflion, fays, " Molte altre volte e ftato, 
 " &c. /. e. This ceremony has alfo been 
 " performed in cafes of public emergency, 
 41 as was the cafe in 1779, on account of 
 " repeated earthquakes. The confequence 
 ** was, that though thefe mocks were fo 
 *' violent, and fo frequent as to agitate the 
 ** country for three years, the city of Bo- 
 * c logna fuftained no fenfible mifchiefs from 
 " this fcourge, which, during its continu- 
 
 " ance,
 
 LETTER LXXIH. 357 
 
 " ance, committed fuch ravages in the cir- 
 " cumjacent cities." 
 
 The Abbe, full of the authenticity and 
 influence of this magical piclure, has an- 
 nexed to his abridged account of this hi- 
 tory, the means by which it pafled into the 
 hands of thofe who founded the prefent 
 church. As fuch a curiofity may not often 
 come before you, I will endeavour, for your 
 amufement, to put this portion of monkifh 
 Latin into a decent Englifh drefs*. " In 
 
 * Anno Domini millejimo centifimo fexagefimo, Die oc- 
 tava intrante Madis. Atftum in Monte de Guardia Cub 
 feeremaiico Domne Azoline & Beatrixie, prefentibus Domro 
 Rambertino de Guezis, Domnus Marcheximus Ottonellus, 
 Judex ; Domnus Angelettus de Urfis, et alii plures teftes, 
 Domnus G. Epifcopas Bonon dedi: et affignavit fupradidlis 
 Azoline et Beatrixie unam capfolam de ligno, cum tabula, 
 ubi pifta eft imago Beate Marie manu beati Luche Evange- 
 liite, quam portavit de Conftantinopoli, in civitate Bononie 
 Theoclys Kennya hermitanationisGrecus ibi prefers ad con- 
 fervandam, tenendam, et cullodiendam in heremitatico de 
 monte de Guarda pro fe et earum fjcce/Toribus, in dido 
 hercmitico ad honorem Dei et didte imaginis. Prenominati 
 Dominus EpiTcopus et Theoclys heremita hocinftrumentum 
 aflignaiionis ut luper legitur fcribere rogaverun:. Ego Vi- 
 talis Bibiicie Dei gratia didVi Domni Epifcopi notarius in- 
 terfui ; et hanc cartam inftrumenti conHgnationis rogatus 
 {cripfi et figillavicom figillo didi Domni Epifcopi indi&iooe 
 
 A A 3 " the
 
 358 L E T T E R LXXIiL 
 
 " the year of our Lord 1160, and the 8th 
 " day of May, in the Monte di Guardia, at 
 " the hermitage of the ladies Azolina and 
 " Beatrice, and in the prefence of Signior 
 " Rambertino de Guezi, Signior Marche- 
 " fmo Ottonello, Judge, Signior Angioletto 
 " del Orife, and many other witnefies, 
 i Gerard, Bifhop of Bologna, gave and 
 " afligned to the aforefaid Azolina and 
 " Beatrice, and their fucceflbrs, a box, con- 
 " taining a tablet, upon which is an image 
 " of the bleffed Virgin, painted by the hand 
 " of Sr. Luke the Evangelift, and brought 
 *? by Theocles, a Greek hermit, then and 
 " there prefent, from Conftantinople, to 
 " have, to hold, and to keep in the hermit- 
 " age of Monte Delia Guardia, to the ho- 
 " nour of God, and of the laid image. 
 " The afore-named bifhop of Theocles, 
 " the hermit, have called upon me to make 
 <c out the foregoing inftrurnent. I there- 
 <c fore, Vitale di Beliefa, by the grace of 
 " God notary of the faid bifhop, 'have 
 " written in their prefencej and at their in- 
 
 " fiance,
 
 LETTER LXXIII. 359 
 
 w fiance, this inftrument of conveyance, 
 " and have fealed the fame with the -feal 
 *' of the faid bifhop, in the 8th indie- 
 " tion." 
 
 I muft allow you to take a moment's re- 
 frefhinent after fo tedious a journey through 
 the fcrolls of fuperftition. And as the whole 
 refembles fo ftrongly the ftruclure of a fable, 
 I think you will not object to its ufual ap- 
 pendage a moral ! I am free to confefs, 
 that I could neither view, nor can reflect 
 upon the whole, without concluding, that 
 when religion is addrefled to the fenfes 
 rather than the underftanding, there is 
 nothing too ridiculous to become the ob- 
 ject of adoration ; and, for my own part, 
 I can difcern in the rationality of this fpe- 
 cies of devotion no difference between the 
 tomb of Mahomet and the crofs of Cal- 
 vary the image of Diana that fell down 
 from heaven, and the portrait of the Virgin 
 painted by Saint Luke. 
 
 A A 4
 
 LETTER LXXIV. 
 
 AMONG the advantages* I derived from 
 *^ my vifit to St. Luke, were the extenfive, 
 varied, and delicious views which I ob^ 
 tained of Bologna and the environs, from 
 different points of the arcades. Numerous 
 villages are fcattered over the circumjacent 
 country, which is adorned with the richeft 
 cultivation. The next objecT: of attention 
 which I found in my excurfion, was the 
 grand and beautiful church of St. Paul. It 
 is not eafy to imagine a more impreflive 
 piece of fculpture than that which ftands 
 before the grand altar, and reprefents the 
 decollation of St. Paul. The hand of the 
 executioner is raifed to ftrike, and the neck 
 of the calm and intrepid apoftle is bared to 
 receive, the blow. This group is difpofed 
 with fuch juft attention to light and eleva-
 
 LETTER LXXIV. 36! 
 
 tion, that no part of the effect produced by 
 the energy of the artift is loft. 
 
 The academy (L'Inftituto) being only- 
 viewed to advantage during a clear light, 
 was the next fcene to which my intelligent 
 and managing lacquey conducted rne. This 
 is a collection which, as it might not be cur- 
 forily viewed, fo it ought not to be lightly 
 criticifed. Among the more valuable trea- 
 Cures of this mufemn were a large variety 
 ef defigns and {ketches, by different mailers 
 of the Bologna fchool. I know fcarcely any 
 pleafure equal to that of tracing the growth 
 of a noble thought from the rude outline to 
 the laft perfection. In viewing the random 
 {ketches of the pencil, one is enabled to fe- 
 parate genius from art, and to discriminate 
 between imagination and mechanifm. I 
 wished to have dwelt longer upon the con- 
 templation of thefe draughts, but 1 was ob- 
 liged to obey the fummons which called me 
 to the Hall of Antiques, where my eye was 
 loft in beholding ftatues, and limbs of fta- 
 
 tues,
 
 362 LETTER LXXIV. 
 
 tues, pigmean heads, colofikl feet, Roman 
 wells, idols, tablets, and tomb-ftones. I 
 had fcarcely time to wonder, before I was 
 hurried into a library, faid to contain twelve 
 thoufand volumes, befides MSS. With the 
 fame rapidity, I laftly vifited various oa- 
 binets of minerals, petrefactions, and philo-* 
 fophical inftruments, halls of wax-work, 
 chambers of fortification, and naval tactics. 
 Of palaces I faw but one, viz. the Sam- 
 pieri, where the Labours of Hercules, by the 
 Caraccis, the Crucifix in ivory, by John of 
 Bologna, and other productions, attracted 
 their portion of admiration ; but my atten- 
 tion was chiefly fixed upon three paintings. 
 The firft of thefe was the very affecting 
 fcene of Abraham difmiffing Hagar, by Gu- 
 ercino. All the emotions which their re- 
 fpedtive fituatioris could infpire, have been 
 attended to by the painter. Sternnefs on 
 the one hand, and diftrefs on the other, 
 were never exprefled in a manner which 
 could fpeak more powerfully to the feel- 
 ings.
 
 LETTER LXXIV. 363 
 
 ings. There are dufky tints in the colour-* 
 ings of this mafter which ? aflbrt well with 
 the graver fubjects. The fecond was a por- 
 trait of Chrift, and the Pharifee who brought 
 the tribute-money. The countenances could 
 not be infpired with jufter exprelfion ; 
 plaufibility and artifice reigned in the one, 
 caution and penetration prevailed irx the 
 other. The painter appeared to have nicely 
 ftudied the fliades of fentiment and charac- 
 ter, and to have well diftinguifhed between 
 fubtilty and fagacity, between the fpeciouf- 
 nefs of art and the, fobriety of truth. The 
 laft is a painting, whofe fame is not con- 
 fined to the fpot which contains it. I mean 
 the celebrated production of Guido, in 
 which St. Paul is reprefented rebuking St. 
 Peter. Any other performance would have 
 acted in vain upon my nerves, whofe vi- 
 brations began to fail, exhaufted by repeated 
 impreffions of the fubliine ; but this was 
 irrefiftible. The firft glance quickened my 
 fenfes, and all my powers of admiration 
 fuffered a refurrection. 
 
 I declare
 
 364 LETTER LXXIV. 
 
 I declare to you, that in contemplating 
 this interesting work, I feemed to enjoy an 
 interview with the very perfonages whofe 
 portraits were exprefTed on the canvafs. And 
 what an interview! With what characters! 
 and on what occafion ! Two apoftles whole 
 equals for piety and chriftian heroifm are 
 yet to be fought men who, from the fimi- 
 larity of their views, their motives, and their 
 labours, muft have entertained for each other 
 the higheft reciprocal affection and efteem 
 are here found in a fituation the moft criti- 
 cal and interesting. " I rebuked him to his 
 " face, faid St. Paul, for he was to be 
 " blamed." I thought I favv in the counte- 
 nance of the firft, an inflexible attachment 
 to virtue and to truth, which filenced the 
 pleadings of private feeling ; and obliged 
 him to reprove the errors of a man, un- 
 equalled perhaps in the chriftian church, ex- 
 cepting by himfelf. In the latter I marked 
 manly'forrow and fober penitence. While 
 the former ftood with his hand raifed, his 
 finger pointed, and his attitude bold, the 
 
 latter
 
 LETTER LXXIV. 365 
 
 latter. fat with his head reclined, refting upon 
 his hand, and his eyes turned with confu- 
 fion from the countenance of the rebuking 
 apoftle. So much life, vigour, and intereft, 
 fuch an union of fentiment and pathos, I 
 have never yet feen in the productions of 
 the pencil : and I am much deceived if the 
 impreffion which this excited, will ever be 
 furpafied by any of the mafler-pieces of arc 
 which may yet lie before me. However 
 that be, I cannot but felicitate myfelf upon 
 having acquired that fund of noble images 
 which the recollection of this painting fup- 
 plies: and if I could with the pilgrims per- 
 fuade myfelf that the fight of a picture 
 would quiet my confcience, and fettle my 
 faith, I mould make no fcruple of turning 
 my back upon the Madonna di San Luca, 
 and feeking my abfolution at the Palazxo- 
 iSampieri.
 
 LETTER LXXV. 
 
 \OLOGNA is reputed to contain as many 
 paintings as Rome itfelf, and fome are 
 of opinion, even more. The churches of 
 Giovanni in Monte, that of the Dominicans, 
 St. Agnes, Corpus Domini, and Petronius, 
 were the chief of thofe which, in addition to 
 the Cathedral and that of St. Luke, I had 
 leifure or even difpofition to vifit. 
 
 The firft of thefe could not be neglected. 
 Refpect for the Cecilia of Raphael carried 
 me there, and I was repaid by the fight of 
 a countenance full of ferenity and beauty. 
 The church of the Dominicans contains the 
 Maflacre of the Innocents,- by Guido. This 
 is held to be one of his beft productions, but 
 it is a fubject which excites horror. The 
 church is one of the handfomeft buildings in 
 its kind that I have ever feen. A very ele- 
 gant
 
 L E T T E R LXXV. 3 6 7 
 
 gant tomb of pure marble here pretends 
 to preferve the relics of that Saint to whom 
 the church is confecrated. The guide un- 
 locked a fmall door, in order that I might 
 apply my hand to the place where the body 
 lay, and obtain, as I fuppofed, full demon-^ 
 ftradon of the fach In compliance with 
 his wifhes, I made the experiment, but not 
 feeling all that anxiety to be convinced^ 
 which he mowed to convince me, I dicj not 
 obtain fufficient evidence to remove my infi- 
 delity. I ought to cbferve that the Domi- 
 nicans have lately porTeffed themfelves of a 
 very beautiful painting, reprefenting the 
 death of the Virgin. It is a production full 
 of fweetriefs and delicate exprelTion, and 
 may be regarded as a valuable acquifition to 
 the treafures of this monaftery. The mar- 
 tyrdom of St. Agnes has given fufficient 
 celebrity to the church of that name : and 
 the powers of Dominichino are in this bold 
 defign very ably and fuccefsfully exerted. 
 St. Petronius had nothing to fhew me but 
 3 the
 
 368 LETTER LXXV. 
 
 the meridian line drawn by Caflini, and the 
 figure of that fon of Mars whofe hand was 
 arrefted in an attempt to wound the Virgin, 
 The hiftory is given at length by Moore. 
 
 The opera was very brilliantly fupported 
 by fome fingers, who will, I prefume, in due 
 time, follow the fortunes of their brother 
 Sepranos, in England. Crefcentini is the 
 favourite, and the Dilettanti have great ex- 
 pectations from his promifmg talents. Bo- 
 logna is indeed the fchool of Italian mufic : 
 and as the air is foft and temperate, the voice 
 muft have an advantage the lofs of which 
 is much felt in England. 
 
 I regret that the fhortnefs of my (lay 
 fhould have deprived me of the power of 
 communicating more extenfive information 
 upon the interefting curiofities of this de- 
 lightful rown. Its general afpecl is ftrongly 
 prepofleffing, and its details are fubjeds of 
 ftudy. We left it yefterday morning, and 
 began to afcend the Appennines. Thefe 
 mountains are diversified by a rich and la- 
 boured
 
 LETTER LXXVI. 369 
 
 boured cultivation ; and the two days pafTed 
 between Bologna and Florence were enli- 
 vened by fcenes of magnificence and beauty. 
 The lambent and fulphureous flames of 
 Pietra Mala, rifing near the village of that 
 name, and conftantly burning, lighted us as 
 we approached Cavigliaro, the boundary of 
 our firft day's journey: and early in the morn- 
 ing of the fecond, we defcended amid the 
 rays of the rifing fun upon the turrets, pa- 
 laces, bridges, gardens, and all the majeflic 
 fcenery of this celebrated capital. 
 
 LETTER LXXVL 
 
 Florence, Nov. 25, 1791. 
 
 is nothing that requires more art 
 than a juft felection of local curiofities* 
 It is difficult to difcern the faireft where all 
 are fair, and to fix upon the moft ufeful 
 VOL. i. B B where
 
 370 LETTER LXXVf. 
 
 where none are without their ufe. Florence 
 abounds fo greatly in objects of intereft to 
 travellers, is fo rich in natural fcenery, mo- 
 numents of architecture, and cabinets of art, 
 that the mind is rather diffracted than di- 
 rected, by thofe catalogues which undertake 
 to do the duty of guides. Whether I have 
 yet vifited one tenth part of its nominal, or 
 digefted one hundredth part, of its real beau- 
 ties, I am not anxious to know ; my time 
 has been wholly employed in feeing, and 
 much of what I faw has filled me with 
 wonder. The gallery, the great monu- 
 ment of Tufcan liberality, and the firft refort 
 of flrangers, has furnifhed me with a large 
 fund of ftudy and amufement. The princely 
 bounty of the Grand Duke, who has enlarg- 
 ed the falar.y of the guides, to throw open 
 the gates of this invaluable mufoeum, is a fub- 
 ject which calls for the traveller's eulogium. 
 All who have crofled the Appennines, have 
 indulged in the praife of this gallery ; and, 
 though the rarities of its cabinets have been 
 
 fo
 
 LETTER LXXVI. 371 
 
 fo often and fo varioufly ferved up, I cannot 
 deny myfelf the pleafure of reporting to you 
 in what manner I was affected by them. 
 The Tribune, which is ufually the loft dii- 
 played, was that into which I accidentally 
 entered^r/?. I knew riot the name of the 
 cabinet, and had followed fome ftrangers. 
 " This (faid our conductor) is the Tribune, 
 " and here," pointing to a ftatue that flood 
 before us " is the Venus de Medicis." 
 Thus taken by furprize, I remained for fome 
 time in filent contemplation of this " ftatue 
 " which enchants the world," and which is 
 confidered as the perfection of fculptural 
 art. Carrying my fpeculations back to the 
 firft rudiments of this wonderful production, 
 I pictured to myfelf, with the Abbe Du Palli, 
 the birth of this defign in the mind of the 
 fculptor, and the enthufiafm which fired him 
 when he firft viewed the mafs. Kindling 
 as I gazed, I traced the progrefs of the chi- 
 fel through all the ftages of its formation. I 
 admired the genius which actuated, the art 
 B B 2 which
 
 372 LETTER LXXVl. 
 
 which guided, and the delicacy which ma> 
 naged the fculptor's hand. Such circunv* 
 ftances muft combine to give perfection, and 
 perfection is the only attribute which can 
 characterize this ftatue. The Arrotino of 
 Whetter, who ftands to the left of the Venus, 
 is a fubject both of admiration and perplex-*- 
 ity. Pofition of body, call of countenance, 
 and circumftance of occupation, denote fome 
 myftery which they do not develop. He is 
 felling on one knee, and whetting a knife 
 or cutting inftrument. His head is elevated 
 inclining to the left, as though he were 
 liftening to fomething faid. It is curious to 
 obferve what ingenious conjectures have 
 been indulged upon the hiftory of this Arro- 
 tino : he is liftening to Cataline's confpiracy, 
 he overhears the plot of Brutus's fons to re- 
 ftore the Tarquins : it is Cincinnatus ; it is 
 Manlius Capitolinus ; and laftly, as though 
 there were not already fufficient hypcthefes 
 to obfcure the fact, the Abbe Palli has 
 found out that it is the Scythian who afiifted 
 9 at
 
 LETTER LXXVIT. 373 
 
 at the duet between Apollo and Marfyas, 
 and who afterwards flayed the latter. Now, 
 that he is liftening, cannot be difputed : 
 and that he may be liftening to the Catali- 
 narian or the Tarquinian faction, are con- 
 jectures equally probable. And whether or 
 not he reprefents the Scythian who was to 
 flay Marfyas, it muft be owned his heart 
 feems ripe for a murderous deed. The hi- 
 tory of this character is, in fhort, among 
 thofe records which have flipped through 
 the fingers of time, and whofe place can only 
 be fuppiied by fancy and conjecture. 
 
 LETTER LXXVII. 
 
 Florence. 
 
 A s I have ventured fo far into the field of 
 
 *^ defcription, it would be treafon to the 
 
 remaining ftatues not to allow them fome 
 
 fliare of encomium. The Wreftlers, fo oft 
 
 BB 3 and
 
 374 . LETTER LXXVII. 
 
 and fo defervedly admired, is a moft beauti- 
 ful and energetic production of the chifel ; 
 the mind of the artift muft have been filled 
 with the jufteft conceptions of human pro- 
 portions and anatomical accuracy. My ig- 
 norance of antient fculpture had led me to 
 form falfe and vulgar expectations of this 
 groupe. The figures are of a moderate fize 
 and a perfect form ; and exhibit an happy 
 union of beauty and ftrength, of grace and 
 vigour, of mufcular force and perfonal come- 
 linefs. The inter-twining of the limbs is 
 moft artfully rendered, and evinces at once, 
 the power of the fuperior, and the difadvant- 
 age of the fallen combatant: while the coun- 
 tenances refpectively exprefs, by emotions 
 of confidence and agony, the triumph of the 
 victor and the defpair of the vanquifhed. 
 The dancing faun is certainly the moft face- 
 tious and mirthful character ever brought 
 out of marble. This grotefque figure- is 
 prefented with one leg elevated, in the atti- 
 tude of dancing. His head is inclined with 
 
 much
 
 LETTER LXXVIL 37S 
 
 much natural expreflion, and in his counte- 
 nance is painted a lively image of luxurious 
 joy. Every lineament difcovers the abfence 
 ' of folicitude and the annihilation of care. It 
 is indeed a charming ftatue, full of antient 
 thought, and in perfect unifon with the 
 feftive imagery of the Grecian mufe. I 
 might now conduct you, as I was conduct- 
 ed myfelf, through a feries of cabinets feve* 
 rally furnifhed with diftinctly arranged curio- 
 fities. Among others were thofe that con- 
 tained collections of precious ftones and mi- 
 nerals wrought into a thoufand varieties of 
 form. Here were columns, vafes, and urns 
 of agate, rock-cryftal, lapis lazuli ; and, in 
 fhort, a large profufion of antient and mo- 
 dern valuables, diftributed and aflbrted with 
 great tafte. The cabinet of portraits was 
 not among the ieaft interefling of thefe fe- 
 condary departments. Thefe portraits are of 
 different painters, painted by themfelves, 
 Madame Le Brun and Angelica KaufFmaa 
 are not among the Ieaft attracting. The 
 B B 4 very
 
 376 LETTER LXXVII. 
 
 very noble urn di Medicis, on which is re-. 
 prefented, in relievo, the facrifice of Iphi- 
 genia, forms a grand central ornament to 
 one of thefe faloons. The Cabinet of the 
 Hermaphrodite, and the Hall of Niobe, con- 
 taining this defcendant of Jupiter and her 
 fourteen children, are treafures of ineftima^ 
 ble value. Amongft a variety of urns, fe- 
 pulchral fragments, and different morceaus of 
 antiquity, are the known and celebrated bufts 
 of Alexander the Great, and Brutus, the lad 
 of which may well deferve a place amongft 
 the productions of the Grecian fchocl. Thefe 
 bufts have alfo fet the learned afloat upon the 
 ciccean of conjecture. The firft of thefe is 
 the buft of a coloflal figure, and bears in the 
 countenance a ftrong expreflion of agony. 
 What circumftance this alludes to in the 
 hiftory of Alexander is the queftion at iffue. 
 " He fighs for new worlds," fays Mr. Ad- 
 difon. " He is difturbed, beyond a doubt ^ fay 
 *' others, with remorfe for the murder of 
 *' Clitus." There is certainly an expreflion 
 
 of
 
 LETTER LXXVII. 377 
 
 of pain in the countenance more deeply co- 
 loured than the fretful emotion of pining 
 difcontent could infpire ; and fuch as might 
 be expected from the man, who had rafh- 
 nefs enough to kill, and fenfibility fufficient 
 to repent. The buft of Brutus has alfo fur- 
 nifhed work for the critics. The buft is 
 excellent, but unfimfoed. All the myflery is, 
 why fhould Michael Angelo have left it in 
 this ftate? Cardinal Bembo has afligned a 
 reafon which will fcarcely pleafe beyond the 
 pale of a court. 
 
 Dam J5ruti effigiem fculptor de marmore illicit, 
 Jn mentem fceleris venit, et abftinuit. 
 
 But Michael Angelo has left many unfi- 
 nimed works. All his figures upon the 
 tombs in the chapel of St. Lorenzo, are un- 
 couthly and imperfectly fculptured. Per- 
 haps this great man, enamoured with the 
 rougher ftrokes of his chifel, and pleafed with 
 the expreflion of his outline, would rather 
 leave the buft unfinifhed, than efface the 
 bolder parts by an addition of the laft poliili.
 
 E 378 3 
 
 LETTER LXXVIII. 
 
 Florence, 
 
 *-pHis city appears conftruded, in all its 
 parts, to fill the eye of the traveller 
 with pleafure. The ftreets, which are paved 
 with even flag-ftones, chifeled as occafion 
 requires, for fafety are generally clean ; 
 and where they open upon the Arno, are 
 illumined by wide and varied views, ex- 
 tending on either fide of this noble ftream. 
 The entrance from Bologna is not impro- 
 perly called a defcent upon the town : for 
 at the diftance of fome leagues the whole 
 appears extended below the brow of the 
 Appennines ; and the traveller feems to be 
 plunging from the lofty precipice into the 
 bofom of thofe viftas and parterres, which 
 interfeft and adorn the vale below. A tri- 
 umphal
 
 LETTER LXXVIII. 379 
 
 umphal arch receives him at the foot of this 
 defcent, and announces his entrance into the 
 Tufcan capital. The palace Pitti, refidence 
 of the Grand Duke, is fombrous in its af- 
 pedt, but has an air of Gothic mcjeity. 
 The interior is noble, and adorned with all 
 that art, riches, and good tafte can contribute 
 to dignify the palatial refidence. Here 
 Pietro de Cortona has lavifhed the fineft 
 touches of his pencil upon the ceilings ; and 
 among the pendents is preferved the Ma- 
 donna of Raphael, to which the connoif- 
 fetirs aflign the higheft rank. It is but 
 juftice to the patron of this palace to fay, 
 that it is exhibited with the fame liberality 
 as the gallery : and that ftrangers are con- 
 dueled through all its chambers with an at- 
 tention and refpeG, which in other places is 
 confidered as involving the expectancy of 
 an exorbitant fee. The palace Ricardi is a 
 ftructure of noble architecture, raifed, for 
 the mofl: parr, upon the defigns of Michael 
 Angelo. It is impoffible not to be delight- 
 ed with the very elegant and mafterly pieces 
 
 of
 
 3 8o LETTER LXXVI1I. 
 
 of Luca Giordano which cover the fpacious 
 roof of the grand faloon. Of the four Evan- 
 gelifts painted by Guercino, each had its 
 proper merits ; but the portrait of St. John 
 was a faithful tranfcript of the Evangelift's 
 pen. It was a countenance animated with 
 as much fire and intelligence as can confift 
 with fweetnefs and fenfibility. Of other 
 palaces I can only fpeak from a view of 
 their exterior, and the reports of others. 
 Their inhabitants are reputed to hold an 
 high rank in polite accomplifhments ; and, 
 thofe who have leifure to cultivate their 
 fociety by a longer refidence, bear teftimony 
 to their domeftic hofpitality. Amufements 
 of every defcription are in this city at their 
 zenith. Their opera has indeed its feafons, 
 and the tide of gaiety its flux and reflux ; 
 but from what I have feen and ftill 
 more from what I have heard no city has 
 a fairer ground of pretenfion to detain thofe 
 travellers, whom ennui and hypochondria 
 have driven to feek the cure of their melan- 
 choly from the hands of pleafure.
 
 [ 381 ] 
 
 LETTER LXXIX. 
 
 Florence. 
 
 E cathedral of Florence is a very large 
 and ponderous edifice, conftru&ed of 
 black and white marble, and therefore pre- 
 fenting a very fhadowy afpect. The ftatues 
 of the twelve Apoftles, and the noble baffb 
 relievos which furround the altar, hardly 
 compenfate the gloom which over-hangs 
 the general mafs. The brafs gates which 
 adorn the baptiftery, an octagonal building 
 detached from, but belonging to this cathe- 
 dral, were by Michael Angelo deemed wor- 
 thy of opening and (hutting the entrance to 
 Heaven. Next in order is the church of 
 San Lorenzo. Here, -in the chapel of the 
 princes, are the two celebrated tombs of 
 Michael Angelo. They are, like his buft 
 
 of
 
 382 LETTER LXXlX. 
 
 of Brutus, imperfectly fculptured ; and pre*- 
 fented to me little beyond the rude outline. 
 Two figures of bold defign adorn each of 
 thefe monuments the firft of which repre- 
 fent Day and Night the fecond Crepufcu- 
 lum and Aurora. The chapel di Medicis 
 in this church is defervedly efteemed amongft 
 the ornaments of Florence. It contains fix 
 tombs conftructed upon the deiigns of 
 Michael Angelo. The form of the chapel 
 is octagonal ; and the monuments are, in 
 point of defign and execution, ftriking and 
 magnificent. Oriental granite of the moft 
 beautiful vein, lapis lazuli, coral, and, in 
 fhort, every fpecies of ftone and mineral is 
 here difpofed and arranged by the hand of a 
 mailer. And were the chapel completed in 
 a ftyle fuited to the original plan, the world 
 would not be able to fhew fo perfect a model 
 of tafte and magnificence. The church of 
 Santa Annuntiata is adorned with fome 
 handfome altars of marble, and paintings of 
 no mean execution. The las reliefs in 
 8 bronze
 
 LETTER LXXIX. 383 
 
 bronze by Jean de Bologne, compofe rather 
 an interefting than fplendid ornament to the 
 Chapelle de La Vierge, in which an image 
 of high character is depofited. The flagel- 
 lation of Chrift is, among thefe brazen 
 ^tablets an extraordinary effort of genius, 
 replete with vigour and fenfibility. Among 
 the contiguous cloifters are fome admirable 
 frefcoes. The wafteful hand of time, and 
 expofure to the damps and dews have brought 
 into decay a beautiful Madonna of Andrea 
 del Sarto, whofe buft and epitaph are affixed 
 againft the walls of this cloifter. The church 
 of the Dominicans is of inferior reputation 
 to the convent. This contains a grand ela- 
 boratory for balfams, fimples, &c. and is 
 efteemed to produce fome of the beft efTences 
 and perfumes which ever ihed their fra- 
 grance around the perfons of beau or belle. 
 The church of San Spirito, prefents a bold 
 defign of folid but fimple architecture. It is 
 as yet fo little 'advanced, that the paintings 
 it contains are perfectly eclipfed. It pro- 
 
 mifes,
 
 3*4 LETTER LXX1X. 
 
 mifes, however, to exhibit in its finifhed 
 ftate that fpecies of grave and decent edifice; 
 which eorrefponds with the rational idea of 
 a Chriftian Temple. My regifter of the 
 churches fhall clofe with that of the Santa 
 Croce. It had for me only two objects 
 the firft of which was the monument of 
 Michael Angelo a monument worthy of 
 the fubjecl:. Three of his fcholars united to 
 form this memorial of their illuftrious pre- 
 ceptor equally {killed in the rival arts of 
 painting, fculpture, and architecture. The 
 tomb of the great Galileo was the fecond, 
 A fimple buft and tablet of marble record 
 his memory. Peace to his afhes ! May no 
 facrilegious hand deftroy the pile on which 
 his name is infcribed ! may his memory for 
 ever flourifh ! and may it appear from the 
 concurrent plaudits of all fucceeding ages, 
 how perifhable are the decrees of fuperftition 
 and error, how immortal the difcoveries of 
 reafon and truth !
 
 LETTER LXXX 
 
 Foligno, Dec, i. 
 
 TT was not without great reluctance that I 
 left Florence, after fo fliort a ftay. An offer 
 of introduction to fome of the principal in- 
 habitants, rendered this abrupt departure (till 
 lefs palatable ; but change and reverfe are the 
 lot of man, and the chances of travel, like 
 thofe of life, are not all in favour of the 
 adventurer. It was by a tardy movement of 
 more than two days, that we reached the 
 antient and venerable town of Peruggia. 
 
 The journey to Rome, by this route, is 
 lefs frequently taken, than that of Sienna, 
 as it is a. track extremely circuitous; but 
 thofe who fludy the wear and tear of 
 horfes and carriages* prefer this route, as 
 more than compenfating for its length, by 
 VOL. r, cc the
 
 3 86 LETTER LXXX. 
 
 the fuperiority of its roads. Among the 
 curiofities of this place, are to be feen many 
 of the productions of Pietro Perugino, the 
 matter of Raphael, whofe beft and greateft 
 works are here preferved. At the church 
 of San Francefco, is one reprefenting the 
 Refurrection, on which I fixed with a 
 great degree of admiration. The outline 
 was faithfully fketched ; and there appeared 
 a great degree of accuracy and chaftenefs in 
 the drawing, and diipofition of the colours. 
 In what I had ever before feen of this mafter, 
 there was fo great a drynefs and formality, 
 that it was difficult to trace, without a deeper 
 knowledge of the art than I can pretend to, 
 any thing like the touches of an able and 
 animated pencil. But from this and other 
 fpecimens at Peruggia, it appears, that Ra- 
 phael may have flood confiderably indebted 
 to the lefTons of his preceptor. Superadding 
 to his own genius the principles of Pietro, 
 he has fhewn the fublime effects which re- 
 fult from the union too feldom exifting 
 
 of
 
 LETTER LXXX. 387 
 
 of ftrong talents and attentive ftudy. This 
 church was rich in excellent paintings. From 
 viewing fome defigns, more remarkable for 
 their quaintnefs and antiquity, than their 
 merit, I pafled to the contemplation of an 
 affiirnption of the Virgin, which pafles with 
 me for the beft Raphael I have yet feen. 
 The Virgin is reprefented in Heaven, and 
 Jefus Chrift placing the crown upon her 
 head. The Apoftles below are collected 
 about her tomb, and gazing upwards with 
 countenances full of attention and rapture. 
 There was in this painting a fort of expref- 
 fion, which made its way more fuccefsfully 
 to my admiration, than the Cecilia at Bo- 
 logna, or the Madonna at the Palace Pitti. 
 I had formed very erroneous conceptions of 
 the pleafure I was to derive from the pro- 
 ductions of Raphael expecting to know 
 them at firft fight, and toVormip them al- 
 moft by inftinct. Painting has however its 
 myfteries, I find and it requires fome ftudy 
 and knowledge of its principles, to be able 
 c c 2 to
 
 3-88 LETTER LXXX. 
 
 to admire what is moft excellent. Like ths 
 fifter arts of poetry and mufic, it feems to 
 hide its excellencies from thofe who are ig- 
 norant of its laws. A good painting feems 
 therefore to ftand very much in the predica- 
 ment of a good poem, and a well wrought 
 concerto. Some fimple delineation fhall 
 fafcinate in the^/fr^, beyond a regular and 
 ftudied production ; while in the lqfl y an art- 
 lefs tale and a popular air fhall pleafe more, 
 than the ftately mufe of Milton, and the 
 learned melodies of Pergolefi. 
 
 At a palace belonging to the noble family 
 of Delia Penna, I was gratified with the 
 fight of fome of the beft and moft finifhed 
 pieces, from the hand of Salvator Rofa. 
 Numerous productions of this extraordinary 
 mafter were fhewn me, in which all the 
 wild and grotefque fancies which genius 
 could create, were brought upon the 
 canvas. To thefe were added four land- 
 fcapes in his beft ftile, two of which pre- 
 fent nature in lefs uncouth forms, and are 
 3 in
 
 LETTER LXXX. 3^9 
 
 in all refpects deferving of the higheft 
 eulogium. 
 
 I was completely occupied, during the 
 time we pafled in this town, with the 
 various and valuable fpecimens of art which 
 I had opportunity to vifit. The town is 
 Sufficiently gloomy in its afpecl the marks 
 of antiquity, defertion, and decay, are 
 ftrongly vifible in all its extent: and it is 
 among the very few cities in Italy which 
 are ftruck out of the lift of the travellers 
 route. It is however certain, that though 
 little vifited, it wants not its importance in 
 the fcale of art. Its churches and its palaces 
 have indeed little to boaft of fplendor or 
 ornament: the intelligent traveller will, 
 neverthelefs, be repaid, for entering apart- 
 ments feldom inhabited, and churches little 
 frequented, by defigns and ftudies appropri- 
 ate to this place, and of a clafs which is iq, 
 vain fought for in cities of greater refort. 
 
 cc 3
 
 t 39 ] 
 
 LETTER LXXXI. 
 
 Terni. 
 
 Foligno to this place, the road was 
 flanked on either fide, by doping lands 
 of rich and laboured cultivation. Foligno 
 is a town of fome traffic, and much fraud. 
 The Britifh minifter refident at Florence, 
 (Lord Harvey,) was by fome accident paffing 
 on this route; Whatever be the fubject of 
 his journey, it is certain that he went incog. 
 to the confines of Rome, and is returning 
 to Florence by this little-frequented route. 
 The politicians of this place are greatly per- 
 plexed to account for his Lordfhip's appear- 
 ance amongft them ; under fuch circum- 
 ftances, they regard it as full of myftery. He 
 paid us a vifit with much politenefs, and I 
 had an opportunity of laying before him a 
 fpecimen of that fort of information which 
 
 the
 
 LETTER LXXXI. 391 
 
 the politicians of Foligno pofTefled. For iu 
 a newfpaper of the place, which I was not a 
 little furprized to meet with, it was hinted 
 with fome confidence, that an union was in 
 agitation of the crowns' of England and 
 France, by the marriage of the Prince of 
 Wales with Madame Royale. This may 
 ferve to fhew you, how much thefe people 
 are admitted into the fecrets of ftate. 
 
 I rofe early on the following morning, in 
 order to obtain, before my departure from 
 Foligno, a fight of the Madonna of Raphael, 
 preferved in the convent Des Gomtefles. My 
 guide arid myfelf had concerted the hour and 
 the means, but alas ! when I approached the 
 door of the chapel and demanded admit- 
 tance, a number of Francifcans, who were 
 aflembled at their devotions, growled refufal. 
 
 From Foligno to Spoletto the track- con^ 
 ducked us through a country whofe beauties 
 have not difappeared in the month of De- 
 cember. The air was foft, the fky delici- 
 pufly ferene above us, and every where 
 c c 4 around
 
 39* LETTER LXXXI. 
 
 aronnd were fcenes of that ornamental de- 
 fcription, which confound, in the traveller's 
 eye, all diftiriction of feafons. In propor- 
 tion as we advanced, the ftate of the coun- 
 try ftill improved ; mountains of the moft 
 pidurefque forms prefented themfelves. 
 Embofomed upon the heights of thefe, were 
 caftles, monafteries, and towns, interfperfed 
 with olive gardens, the bloom of vvhofe 
 fruit reflected in various hues the rays of the 
 fun. We alighted on our route, to view the 
 little temple by the road fide, confecrated, 
 as the lovers of antiquity affirm, to the god 
 Clitumnus ; and as men of lefs enthufiafm, 
 and therefore probably of more judgment, 
 fey, to fome modern Divinity. Spoletto was 
 the boundary of this day's journey, and the 
 hour of our arrival was fufficiently early to 
 vifit the Gothic Aqueduct, which here con- 
 nects the mountain of St. Francis with Spo- 
 letto.. It is a ftupendous building of ten 
 arches, the loweft of which is eftimated to 
 {land more than fix hundred feet above its 
 
 founda--
 
 LETTER LXXXI. 393 
 
 foundation. Its hiftory is carried back to 
 the times of Theodoric, and it forms in its 
 prefent ftate, an object of great magnificence. 
 The mountain againft which it refts, has 
 many wild and piclurefque beauties. A 
 loofe and irregular fhrubbery overfpreads it 
 from the fummit to the narrow channel be- 
 low ; and intermixed with the mafles of 
 ftone which hang upon its flopes, the tang- 
 ling {hoots exhibit thofe light and negligent 
 ornaments, which art can never fuccefsfully 
 imitate. I was given to underftand that a 
 portrait of the Virgin by St. Luke, was 
 among the ineftimable rarities of Spoletto 
 but I heretically contented myfelf with the 
 report of its miraculous properties; and, glan- 
 cing fimply at the pompous infcriptions 
 which announce the pride of this place, as 
 the " caput umbrise," and the town fo cele- 
 brated by the flight of Hannibal compofed 
 myfelf to an anticipation of thofe beauties 
 yphich I was to fee in the Caicade of Terni.
 
 t 394 ] 
 
 LETTER LXXXII. 
 
 Citta Caftellana. 
 
 E Cafcade of Terni is formed by the 
 fall of the Velino into the Nera, (an- 
 tiently the ' Nar " Narque albefcentibus 
 aquis in. Tiberim properans." Si!, fiat.) 
 The Velino is a pretty confiderable river of a 
 navigable depth, and takes its rife in Monte 
 Abruzzo ; feparating, in its paflage to the 
 point of defcent, the town of Rhieti, from its 
 fuburbs. There are many circumftances at- 
 tending this Cafcade, which render knot only 
 an object of aftonimment to the traveller, 
 but of intereft to the naturalift. The river 
 Velino once formed a marfh in the valley 
 of Rhieti, highly prejudicial to the country, 
 and whofe waters had the fingular property 
 of petrifaction. This circumftance is atteft- 
 ed by Pliny : " In lacu Velino lignum de- 
 jectum lapideo cortice induitur." The chan- 
 *i nel
 
 LETTER LXXXII. 395 
 
 nel through which the Velino now pafles, 
 in its way to the point of defcent, was dug 
 by order of Clement VIII. The calcareous 
 particles with which the water is impreg- 
 nated, have here concreted in their pafiage, 
 and overlaid the whole fuperficies of this 
 bed with a fubflance refembling the folidity 
 of marble. Hence this level has acquired 
 the name of Piano del Marmore, or the 
 Marble Level ; and the Cafcade itfelf, La 
 Caduta del Marmore, or the Marble Cafcade. 
 The track from which it is approached 
 from the town of Term, is fingularly pic- 
 turefque. Cut for the greater part out of 
 the folid rock, it purfues a winding courfe, 
 and furnifhes, by a gradual yet conftant 
 afcent, numerous and varied views of the fur- 
 rounding fcenery. The rapidity of the river 
 in that channel, which is hewn out of the 
 rock to give paffage to its watery, is fcarcely to 
 be imagined. It is here that the fpectator is 
 ufually conducted firft, in order that he may 
 fee the quantum of force with which this 
 
 body
 
 396 LETTER LXXXil. 
 
 body of water haftens to its fall. It is im- 
 poflible, to regard without dizzinefs, the ex- 
 treme velocity of this part of the current. 
 Stones of confiderable weight are buoyed up 
 by the rapidity of the motion. The next 
 point of view, is that which from a fmali 
 terrace conveys to the eye this powerful 
 fcream, precipitated from the extremity of 
 its marble level with all that violence which 
 it has already acquired by the compreilion 
 of its waters. The ftream thus precipitated 
 is received in a rocky bafon, fcooped out by 
 the force of the waters, and from whofe 
 bafe it is difcharged to a fecond receiver, 
 amidft a vaft profufion of foam and uproar. 
 Defcending thus with a rapidity regularly 
 diminimed by the re-acT:ion of two fuc- 
 ceffive rocks, the river enters the Nera, and 
 proceeds to join the imperial Tiber. A fcene 
 of greater and more terrific magnificence 
 cannot be pictured by the imagination. The 
 force and velocity of the current, in the point 
 preparatory to its defcent, is mod tremend- 
 ous*
 
 LETTER LXXXIII. 397 
 
 ous. It is difficult to decide fo different 
 are the calculations upon this fubject its 
 accurate meafurement. The Pere Carrara 
 has fixed its total height from the Piano del 
 Marmore to the level of the Nera, at 1871 
 Roman palms. The tumult of its waters, 
 reverberated in a thoufand directions ; the 
 frothy clouds which iffued from the valley; 
 the arching rocks which overhung the 
 gulph; and the luxuriant flirubs which 
 icattered their delicate {hades ; formed 
 together a picture of romantic fublimity, 
 too impreflive to be eafily fupplanted by 
 any fcenes of fecondary beauty. 
 
 LETTER LXXXIIL 
 
 Rome, Dec. 7. 
 
 TT was bet ween Spoletto and Terni, that we 
 paused the higheft point of Appennine 
 upon this route, and we have been fince re- 
 gularly defcending. I could not pafs through 
 
 Terni,
 
 398 LETTER LXXXIII. 
 
 Terni, without feeling an emotion of claf- 
 iical pleafure. It was the birth-place of 
 Tacitus, and the mind is forcibly imprefTed 
 with fcenes thus connected with thofe it has 
 learned to admire. Johnfon has exprefled, 
 in his mafterly imitation of the Roman poets, 
 the fame fentiment : 
 
 Struck with the fpot which gave Eliza birth, 
 We kneel, and kifs the Confecrated earth. 
 
 IMIT. Sat. 3. Juv. 
 
 Our route from Terni lay along the beau- 
 tiful valley which connects this town with 
 Narni. The waters of theNera, gracefully 
 difcompofed, and rendered mufically fono- 
 rous by the influx of the Velino, roll along 
 this charming vale, in their way to the point 
 of junction with the Tiber. The ruins of 
 the great bridge, which once connected the 
 two oppofite mountains, and over which 
 pafled the high road to Peruggia, (lands at 
 no great diftance from the town of Narni. 
 The only entire arch which now remains, 
 difcovers it to have been, whatever were its 
 
 form,
 
 LETTER LXXXIII. 399 
 
 form, of bold and fublime conftrucYion. 
 Blocks of ftone compofed without cement, 
 and compacted into an apparently folid 
 mafs, convey an high idea of the perfection 
 to which the arts were carried in the age of 
 Auguftus. What was once Otriculum, is 
 now a little dirty poft town, and preferves 
 more of its name than its fubftance, ftill 
 retaining the appellation of Ocricoli. Nume- 
 rous veftiges of ruined monuments are vifi- 
 ble in its environs, and different fides of the 
 roads yet ihew the remains of antient fabrics, 
 and heaps of crumbling materials. The very 
 ierpentine courfe which the Tiber purfues, 
 engaged particularly my attention in paffing 
 from Narni. The level furface of the coun- 
 try allowed the eye to obferve the flexions 
 of this ftream over a confiderable fpace. The 
 beauties of cultivation gradually difappeared 
 as we approached Citta Caftellana. It was 
 from this miferable town, once the capital 
 feat of the Falifci, and taken by Camillus, 
 A. U. 359, that we yefterday fmifhed our 
 
 journey
 
 400 LETTER LXXXIII. 
 
 journey to this metropolis. Scenes of na'J 
 tural beauty had been for fome time reced- 
 ing ; and now, in proportion as we ad- 
 vanced, the afpect of the country increafed in 
 that deformity which neglected agriculture 
 and reduced population have introduced into 
 the moft fertile and productive foil under the 
 Heavens. A few fcattered huts, and thefe 
 for the moft part finking into ruins, ferve 
 rather to heighten the picture of defo- 
 lation ; and to awaken a more lively degree 
 of fenfibility in the bofom of the contempla- 
 tive traveller. At length the dome of St. 
 Peter's rifmg amidft this weary wafte, indi- 
 cated our approach to ROME, which receiv- 
 ed us by an entrance majeftic, and expreffive 
 of the genius of this antient capital. 
 
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