;y of California ?rn Regional iry Facility I UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA AT LOS ANGELES i.\V OWE N's TRAVELS INTO DIFFERENT PART'S OF EUROPE, In the Years 1791 and 1792. VOL. I. TRAVELS INTO DIFFERENT P4RTS OF EUROPE, 5 IN THE YEARS 179! AND 1792. WITH FAMILIAR REMARKS ON PLACES MEN^- AND MANNERS, BY JOHN OWEN, A.M. LATE FELLOW OF CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE. Mores, ei Studio, tt Populos Vl RG. Georg. Lib. 4. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: PRINTED FOR T. CADELL JUN. AND W. DAVIES, (SUCCESSORS TO MR. CADELL,) IN THE STRAND. 1796. PREFACE. 1 K^ 1 TT is a fubjedl of equal notoriety and regret, that prefaces have funk into general difufe, or loft to a great degree their jUft and original character. The abrupt appearance of an author be- fore the bar of the public is an enter- prize of moll anxious uncertainty. He feems to be bound by a fort of re- fpeci, to prefent fome credentials or SS fubmit to fome formalities, before he fioned to the procefs of printing by the author's diftance from the metropolis and the prefs, the hiflory of this delay will have been completely given. The reafons for fpecifying thefe caufes with fo much minutenefs, will be fuf- ficiently obvious to thofe who are ac- quainted with the bufy inlinuations of calumny and malice. Events of a 4 late viii PREFACE, late occurrence have fplit fociety into fo many factions, that jealoufies are now excited, againfl which too much precaution cannot be employed. The author expects to hear it infinuated, as it has been already candidly rumoured, that the publication was delayed for the convenience of adapting it to the humour of the times. If the cir- cumftances already enumerated had not fufficiently done away this imput- ation, the very difficulty itfelf of effecting fuch a tafk, in the varying circumftances of the prefent period, would difcover the folly of the charge. Tothefe, however if thefe fhould yet be inefficient- the author is ready to annex his mod ferious declaration ; that in no inftance, the moft trivial parti- culars alone excepted, has he fhaped or accommodated the original fpirit and PREFACE. ix and train of the journal ; and that a confiderable number of the Letters have been printed, with no other al- teration, than that of a literal or ver- bal correction. A third objection may poffibly arife in the minds of fome, from the inter- nal character of the Letters them felves, the cireumftances of which they treat, and the unreferved rreedom with which thefe circumftances are treated. To this it may be replied, that the author has availed himfelf, in travel- ling and in writing, of that liberty which has in fuch cafes ever been deemed admiffible : and that as he travelled to fee and report, he con- ceives that he could only do juftice to himfelf, the public, and his fub- ject, by depicting, as he has done, manners and fentirnents in their na- tural x PREFACE, tural colours; and exprefling, on juft occafions, the unduTembled feelings of his own mind. If the reader main- tains a flrict attention in adjudging thefe Letters to the particular periods in which they were written; if he coniiders the circumftances of the times and the ftate of public opi- nion ; the author is convinced that his enthufiafm will be pronounced to have been of a venial, if not of a com-* mendable character. But events of fuch variety, and in many particulars of fuch importance, have taken place during the lapfe of the three laft years, that the mind will not, without fome difficulty, acquire that temper with xvhich ic ought to perufe the reports of a preceding period. Labouring under the influence of fome recenc impreffions, the reader will probably be PREFACE. xi be led to confound thofe dates which ought to be kept religiouily diftinct ; and thus condemn, by a reference to fubfequent tranfa&ions, what in the then circumftances he might have been forward to approve. It muft not be diflembled, that the largeft portion of the author's anxiety for the fate of his work is founded in an apprehen- fion of this dangerous, yet almofl in^ evitable, confufion in the public mind of dates and feelings. For his own part, he is free to confefs, that though his mind has been affected with the moft fenfible emotion at the horrors which have deformed the name of Liberty^ he yet can fee no reafon for reverling all the maxims of the wifeft men and the beft times ; he ftill can contemplate it in its genuine charac- iters of benignity and order as the 6 friend xii PREFACE, friend of man, and the happieft ce- ment of civil fociety. Not all the diforders which have deluged Europe fince the ^era of the French revolution have induced him to depart from the principles* which fupported his ori- ginal admiration of this extraordinary event. The downfal of limited mo- narchy, the irruption of Jacobinifm, BrilTotinifm, and all the modifications of republican tyranny, have cruelly inverted the original picture ; buc the very hoftility which thefe declared againft the fr-Jl reformers, and which themfelves have experienced from the prefent lefs outrageous and de- mocratic rulers, is an argument in favour of the firft legiflative aiTembly, which cannot be defeated by any fpecies of regular and ingenuous rea- * Vide Preface to Retrofpe View from Saint Luke Decollation of Sf. Paul Z/ Injlituto Palace Sampieri Abraham and Hagar* Chrifl and the Pharifec CONTENTS. *H Pharifee St. Paul and St. Peter Its effe&s defer ibed Bcft objecJ of pilgrimage \ Page 360 LETTER LXXV. Churches Giovanni in Monte, Cecilia of Raphael Dominican, Majjacre of Inno- cents, Tomb of Dominique, Death of Virgin Agnes, Martyrdom Petronius, Meri- dian, &c. Muficals Route from Bo- logna Pietra Mala, &c. 366 LETTER LXXVI. Florence Gallery Liberality of Grand Duke Tribune Venu$ de Medici s Progrefs of artift imagined Arrutino Different hypothefes Conclusion. - 369 L E T T E R LXXVII. Wreftlen Dancing faun Cabinets of mi- nerals, portraits, &c.' Eufl of Alexander Different opinions Euft of Brutus Why unfnifhcd Conjefture. - 373 *lii CONTENTS. LETTER LXXVIII. Streets Entrance of city Palace Pitti, Ceilings, Madonna Ricardi, Evangelifts, &c. General character of place and peo- ple. Page 378 LETTER LXXIX. Cathedral San Lorenzo, tombs of Michael Angelo, Chapel di Medic is Santa Annun- tiata, has reliefs. Madonna, &c. Domini- cans SanSpirito Santa Croce, Monument of Michael Angelo, Galileo Reflection on the loft. ~ - 381 LETTER LXXX. Reluflant departure Peruggia San Fran- cefco Refurreclion Raphael indebted to " Pie fro Perugino Affumption of Virgin Analogy of painting and mufic Palace Delia Penna Salvator Rofa General character of Peruggia, 385 CONTENTS. xliii LETTER LXXXI. Foltgno Village politics Madonna of Raphael Delicious route to Spoletto*> Gothic aqueduct Importance of Spoletto. Page 390 L ETTER LXXXII. Cafcade of Term River Velino Hi/tor y Piano del Alarmore Track from village Points of 'view Mode of defcent Height General cffecJ. - 394, LETTER LXXXIII. . High eft point of Appennlne Birth place of Tacitus Route to Narni Nera-bridge Otriculum Flexions of Tiber Cltta Caf- tellana Decrcafe of natural beauty En- trance of Rome. - - 397 CONTENTS, VOLUME THE SECOND, LETTER LXXXIV. rable embarrqflment Roman capital Reflection Mufeum Confined fpace of capital Campo Vaccino Vejliges of an- tient Jlrufturcs Contrqft of aqtient and modern Forum. Page I LETTER LXXXV. emple of Peace Imperial Palace Arch of 'Titus Prefent Jlate Jewffi delicacy Sonnet of Ealdi Tranjlafion. 6 LETTER LXXXVI. emple of Antoninus and Fauftina Peter s miracle Amphitheatre of Vefpafian Ex- tent, flrength) and remains Miraculous anecdote Arch of Conftantine Magnifi- cent view Refleflion. - JQ C O N t N f & *lv LETTER LXXXVIL Prelude to Chr'iflmas Ceremonies of Nati- vity Character of his Hollnefs-^-General effett Papal power on the decline. Page 1 7 LETTER LXXXVIII. Multitude of antlent monuments Baths, Dioclejian, Titus Circufes Pantheon theatre of Marcellus Aquedufts and laths beft tejllmomes of antieni grandeur* 20 LETTER LXXXIX. Roman burials Sepulchre ofElbulus Toriibs Vault of the Scipios Capo dl Bove-~- Pyramid of C. Cejlius Moles Adriani Maufoleum of Augujlus Real char after of that prince. * 24 LETTER XC. fountain of Egeria Temple of Minerva^ Medica Mifcellaneous temples, &c. Co- lumn of ^T raj an and Anfbninus Roots of bridges xlvi CONTENTS* bridges Clean/ing of 'Tiber Colour Diminijtied reputation. Page 28 LETTER XCI. EffecJ of French revolution upon the Pope Religious precautions Devotion of city~ ProceJJion Its efecl Religion and traf- fic of Rome Rules for calculating the po- pulation. - - 33 LETTER XCIL ConducJ of the Pope tipon efc ape of Louis XV L Extraft from brief Spirit of the de- mand. - ~ ~ 37 LETTER XCIII. Barberini Palace Four Evangelifts^fick fa- tyr, Jleeping faun Spada Statue of Pompcy Rufpiglioji, Aurora Villa Al- bani, Mcdicis^ Borghefe Cur tins Sling- ing David Fighting Gladiator Effect upon the mind. - - 42 CONTENTS. LETTER XCIV. St. Peter s Street conducing to Area before Facade Ornaments of interior Afcent to Crofs Vatican Mufeum Additions of Pius Superiority of antient to modem Rome Apollo Laocoon, &c. Page 46 LETTER XCV. St. 'John Laterally relics, &c. Baptiftery Triclinium, injlrument of Popes authority Scala Santa Climbing devotion Mi- raculous image Religious grants. 5 i LETTER XCVL Santa Maria Maggiore, ornaments, Culla Sa- cra, &c. San Paolo, its magnificence, fpeaking crucifix, &c. Memorable altars en Oftian way Santa Maria della Croce Catacombs of Sebqflian, &c. San Pietro in Car cere, Peter s prifon In Montorio 9 TransJigurationIn V'mculis, miraculous union of chains, &c. Mifcellaneous mi- racles, - *- 55 14 fclviH CONTENT 3. LETTER XCVII. Coffee-hottfes General fubjijlence Fondneft for theatricals Serious opera Defcrip- tion of comic ^ Roman more thaji Italian. Page 6 1 LETTER XCVIII. BenedicJi n of borfes Strictly regarded Romance offcourge Funeral proceffibns Efficacy of candles Exijlence of mira- cles. - 64 LETTER XCIX. Excutfwn to Tivoli Solfaterra, &c. Car- dinal d^Efte ^Lucan Bridge Sybils Te??t- ple -Villas of M Temple of Venus ^ Mer- cury r , &c. Eaidi Pifcina Mirabile Elyfian Fields Live only in defcription Grotto del Cane Phenomenon yet unac- counted for Baths of Nero Pifciarella Soil generally impregnated 'with heat. 118 LETTER CX. Mtifaum at Portici Court-yard Repofi- tory of antiques Different cabinets d 2 Ruins lii CONTENTS. Ruins of Herculaneum Entrance of lava into boufes, &c.-r-Infenfibility of na- tives Provifion of naturt' Uncertainty of foil Climate ) &c. Page 124 LETTER CXI. Farnefe Bull Hercules Tomb of Virgil* Happy tradition -Cicerones "Their cba- racJer Cafe of conference decided Ho- norable credentials. 129 LETT E R CXII. Eruption ofVe/xviiis Af cent of the mountain Appearance Flow of LavaCrater^ &c. defcribed View upon mountain Na- ture of the dif charge- Departure . 133 LETTER CXIII. Re- entrance of Ro?ne Difference of impref- Jion Little attraction in Roman fociety- Excetknce of Roman accent Oaths Re- verfe of Cardinal de Bernis Royal aunts Abbt Mauri Decline of papal power 8 Potitif* CONTENTS. Hii Political precautions Emigrants difl'm- gttijked. - Page 138 LETTER CXIV. Route to Sienna Highefl point of Appennlns Slenna^cathedral Itinerant preacher Religions policy. - 144 LETTER CXV. Contrajl of Campagna and Tufcany At- tempt to account for evils of the former Severe impoft -Magnitude of farms ^ &c. Means of reformation Obflacle to ex- periment. - . - 148 LETTER CXVI. Leghorn defcrlbcd Political rumours M- effecJ on commercial cities Cofitrafl of ob- jecJs at Leghorn and Rome Corruption oj Romlfh church Probable mifcbiefs of its overthrow. - - i r2 liv . C O N.T E N T S. LETTER CXVII. Voyage to Genoa Felucca defcribed Pajfen- gers Their character Subjecl of Lotto Trench revolution Sailors judgment- Virtuofi s amendment. Page 156 LETTER CXVIII. Carrara Its marbles Port of Lend Entertainment-^ &c. - Spe-zia Engliflj navy C A p I T A N o Cook Englifh prodi- gies PaJJionfor Jlones, bejl attachment Succefsful virtu Piedmontcfe education Prince of Carignano and E?igliJJy prince. 160 LETTER CXIX. Coojl from Lend Land route Robbers -Francefcom Port of Camucci^Genoefe orator French and Evglijh character contrajled Virtuofo difcouraged - trance into harbour of Genoa. 1 66 CONTENTS. i e LETTER CXX. Approach to Genoa defcribed-^-Stritcliirc of houfes, &c. Streets, &c. Ponte di Ca- rignano Indujlry and public fpirit. Page 170 LETTER CXXI. Palaces Francefco Balbi Palazzo Roffo Head of Holof ernes Ornaments of inte- rior, &c. Ditrazzo Shiecdote of pof- M>'- 174 LETTER CXXII. Albergo dc PoveriIts good adm'uujlration and nfes ^Paupers Church, &.c..~~-Proeef- fwn of children Extent of building Hof- pital Sola de Fcriti Church of Carig- nano Statues, &c. Sedan Doge- Ge- neral cjf eft of city, f 178 LETTER CXXIII. Departure from Genoa Sailors devotion Lerici Rencontre Company Crijis d 4 Contrary Ivi CONTENTS. Contrary 'wind Land expedition Ar- rangement. - Page 1 84 LETTER CXXIV. Exchange of Sarzana and Leghorn Car- riages defcribed Order of procejjicn - Day -light German gutturals Arrival. iSS LETTER CXXV. Pifa Cathedral, &c. Torre Pendente Mechanics no defence againfl fear Baths , &c. Route to Florence Drefs of fe- males.' - - 191 LETTER CXXVL Rigours of >uarefima, &c. Second view Ponte della Trimta Police Fair J ex Morals, - - 195 LETTER CXXVII. Appennine- Pietra Mala AfpecJ of ground, &c Cicerone Loiano Sanclity of Good Friday C O, N T E N T S. Ivii Friday Advantages of mechanical devo- tion. - - Page 198 LETTER CXXVIIL Funclions at Bologna Sepulture of Chrift Italian oratory Mufical folemnity San Micbaele in Bofco Pleafures of its vici- 7iity Revijit to SampierirPainting re- fonfidered, &c. 203 LETTER CXXIX. EaJter-Eve Pilgrims, proceffions, &:c. EaJter-Day^ Cardinal Legate, Gonfalonier, &.C. Wealth, &c. of city Defeated by fuperjlition Papal yoke Probability of its decline. - - 207 LETTER CXXX. Route to Ferrara Altered afpetJ of town*- State of fuperjlition Humours ofRovigo- Delicious village Communicative landlord Mountain oftbefeven churches Relics of Saints Terrace Religious curiofities. 212 Jviii CONTENTS. LETTER CXXXI. Change of miracle Defcent of Brenta - Banks of canals^ &c. Approach to Ve- nice Tour of city Place of St. Mark - Columns^ caffes^ &c. Rendezvous Ca- finos, &c.r - Church of St. Marker dies ^ &c, Page 218 LETTER CXXXII. Church of San Zacharia y Angel and violin San Giovanni e Paolo , Saviour and the Levitt Sf. Roche Santa Maria dclla Salute ScalxiFrari Precious depofit ^itian s tojnb ReJJeffioji. T 223 LETTER CXXXIIL Palac Pifani) Family of Darius Sajt Georgio Maggiore, Marriage of Cana Luxuries of the convent Grand Canal Ponte di Rialto Prices of gondolas Po- pulation Paths and gondolas. 228 CON TENTS. Toe LETTER CXXXIV. Origin of Venice ^Advancement State of 'Defence P erf on of Venetians Drcfs Mq/king Amufcments Gondola defcrlbed Gondoliers Political reftraints. Page 232 LETTER CXXXV. Police defective Ufe of the knife Sklr- mi/Jjes of Sclavonlans Licentiotifnefs tole- rated Reafon ajjlgned Departure from Venice Village gratitude. 237 LETTER CXXXVI. Padua Sarcophagus, Antcnor Church^ St. Antony Santa jujlina Prato della Valley Livy, &c. Univerjity town Vi- cetiza Olympic Theatre, interior defcrlbed Madonna del Monte Berrico Inhabi- tants Court efy. - Ix CONTENTS. LETTER CXXXVII. Route to Verona Amphitheatre^ interior dc- fcribed Churches , &c. Reflection* on having Italy Route to 'Trent Bolzano^ loquacious landlord- Route to Brixen Change of country Faffing to Infpruck- Drefs and manners of Tyrolians. Page 246 LETTER CXXXVIIL German tragedy State of Infpruck^ &c. Change of cojlume Review of route through Tyro! Objefts of fuperjlitlon Different in Italy and Tyrol Catholic church -yard Alliance of Catholic to poetic rite. 253 LETTER CXXXIX. Augslourg) Jlate of country ^ &c. Gold and fdver head-drefs Political events Route to Lindau Boden See Circuit of lake Rojbacb) &c. Conjlance Emigrant ren~ dezvous Power of adverfity. 259 CONTENTS, Ixi LETTER CXL. Sympathy Emigrant fiifferings Surviving PoliteffcPolonefe princefs State of Con- Jlance Environs, &c. Route to Schqf- houfe Encounter. - Page 264 LETTER CXLL Equilibrium reft or ed Fall of Rhine Lev el , rocks y &c. Points of view Imagination indulged Minute beauties Sole dcfeti* Bridge of wood Safety againjl /pecu- lation Route to Zurich- Eglifau Di- verting landlord. - 269 LETTER CXLII. Mind's caprice Zurich defer ibed Fair ftx Government fevere Effects of politics on Geneva Only objccls not changed. 274 LETTER CXLIII. Villa at Lmifanne Its beauty Change of PJfcJfir Reafons Bad effecJs of defeated cppofition Ixii CONTENTS. oppojttion New law re/peeing travellers Its operation Gibbon Changes felt in fociety Not felt by lower orders. Page 279 LETTER CXLIV. Amufements difcover nature- Flajk and valz Sunday diver/tons Jeu de FEpingle Quejlions et -reponfes Arioflo quoted^ Intellectual character of the Swift Plea- fant repartee. - - 283 LETTER CXLV. Ruflic enthujiafin Heltife Forcible addrefs to pajjions Corrupt tendency > Merits confidered Character of writer Epi- taph on RonJJeau Id. on Voltaire. 288 LETTER CXLVI. Polifhprincefs Political character Vivacity^ &c. Eon-mot of Staniflaus Forced mar- riage Italian law Anecdote Ariofto wrote from other models Englifo manners con t rafted. - - 292 CONTENTS. Ixiii LETTER CXLVII. Stvi/s mourning for majjacre of jotb of Augujl New plans of travel ProjecJ to Egypt defeated Courteous adieu of emi- grants Advantage of difficulties. Page 297 LETTER CXLVIII. Second tour to Glaciers Review on route Jura, Geneva^ &c. Track to Bonneville^ environs , &c. PiEturefque approach to Clufe Valley of Maglan Cafcade New hotel at Salcncbe Cafcade of Chede^ lake, &c. Boiffons Montainvert Guides^ Cachat His achievements Saujfure, &c. Unfttccefsful expedition to Mo?it Blanc Aiguille de Dru Source of Arveron changed Arrival at Geneva Profpecl of change of fcene. - 302 LETTER CXLIX. Excurfwn to Lyons Addition of company Patriotic adieu Drench boundary Co- longes JxiV CONTENTS. longes Village taffies National troops-^-* Cerdon Expenfive privilege Montluel Female politician Entrance of Lyons Place Bellecourt Hotel ^ &c. Page 3 1 3 LETTER CL. Table aHoleDifcu/ionCity defcrlbed Low population Indignities of Jlatue of Louis XIV. Gala proccffion . 318 LETTER CLL Burning of royal portraits, and books, &c. Order of proceeding Setting Jire to pile AJhcs of Louis XIV. Temper of populace Dialogue Farther Introduction Bour- geois guard Finale effete. 323 LETTER CLII. PicJure in verted Prediction Theatre Pnyfan Magiftrat Marfeillois march Symptoms of dlf order Confirmation In- fur reftlon MaJJacre Fi rji victim Con- fequences -ProceJJion of mob New victims ~-Difco- CONTENTS. Ixv very Calm Morning deliberation - Paffports Retreat projected. Page 328 LETTER CLIIL Plan of mob Unfortunate officer Origin of mob Conduct of Municipality Affi- cbes Counter advertifements Orderly defence Carriage engaged--' Manners brutalized Efcape anticipated. 336 LETTER CLIV. Return to Geneva Second addrefs of Mayor IJJuefrom Lyons Montleull Fugitive prieJis-Nantua Patriotic volunteers Guard Priejis undifguifable Rencontre Englift character refpetted Arrival Refaction upon events^ &c 342 LETTER CLV. Tour into Germany projected Attack upon Savoy rumoured Effect upon Geneva Arrival at Berne Deferter Genewus patriot Embarras Dulnefs of Berne. 349 VOL. I. Ixrf CONTENTS. LETTER CLVI. Military fejlivities Swift officers Precis Hiflorique Aaraw Broug Dilemma. Pa g e 354 LETTER CLVII. Route from Broug Pqflilion vanquifoed Pojlilion victor Cafcade ofSchaffhaufe re- viewed Table d^Hote Swifs politics Religious economy. 359 LETTER CLVIIL Swifs towns, their characler German lan- guage Little analogy with other lan- guages Plan of tour Decijion French travellers Swifs phlegm EngliJ]} im- patience. - 365 LETTER CLIX. Departure from Schaffhaufe German wag- gon Company German characler Ac- cident Embarrajpnent. 370 CONTENTS. Ixvii LETTER CLX. Simile EmbarraJJment renewed Route con- tinned Pojl-houfe Eclairciffement Dinner 'Journey refumed* Page 375 LETTER CLXI. Society Further difficulties in German lan- guage Riedlingen Pleafant difcovery Journey to Ulm continued Ulm dejcribed, c. 3 8i LETTER CLXII. Embarking for Vienna Frenchmen obnoxi- ous PaJJengers, &c. Landing French characJer in youth and age Inquijitivenefs *Table d'tiote when agreeable. 387 LETTER CLXIII. Departure from Gunjburg Mode of pajjing the day Character of paj/engers Bajle merchant Hungarian teacher Maflame Vogel Darmftadt lieutenant Swifs IJ/uefrom barge. - 392 C 2 Ixvlii CONTENTS. LETTER CLXIV. Battle of Blenheim Scene depicted Mar- qulfate of Baden Donaveri Neuberg Bavarian troops Adventure Pajftng under bridge. - - Page 397 LETTER CLXV. Forcible current Ingolftadt Errors in German character corrected Diver/ions of evening Arrangement of day's voyage Amufements. - - 402 LETTER CLXVI. Majeftic courfe of Danube Military fenjibi- llty Ratijbon Jealoufy of French Re- flection -Comedy of dogs Departure. 408 LETTER GLXVII. Village mifery Delicate arrangement F/7/z- hofen Apology for trivial details Chance of greater adventures. - 413 LETTER CLXVIII. View of Pajfau Nature undefcrlbable DreJ/es of females Scrutiny Engel- kartzel Aufirlan officer Infer iff ion. 417 CONTENTS. Ixix LETTER CLXIX. Conrfe to Linfz Lintz Interejling fcenes Strudels Enchanting picJure Pilgri- mage of Morbacb Religious falute Crems Vienna. - Page 422 LETTER CLXX. Entrance upon Vienna Caernerthore thea- tre defcribed Wiedner theatre^ its fpecies of amufement Remark on German ferious fong Theatre in Jofephftadt. 428 LETTER CLXXI. The JLmperor defcribed Het%, or combat of wild beajls Departure of the HeJ/ian. 433 LETTER CLXXII. Change of refidence German hauteur exhi- bited in language- maJJers Manner of living at Vienna Diverting embarfajf- ment. - - - 438 Ixx CONTENTS. LETTER CLXXIII. Knowledge of life how obtained Italians at Vienna Independence maintained by a reformation In drefs By avoiding three Jbrts of characters Adventurers, good fort of people. Englishmen Rule llluf- trated. - - Pag 6444 LETTER CLXXIV. Contraft of Sunday In England and In Vienna Summer rendezvous Prater Augar- ten Dancing Humours of a Tanzfaal defer ibed. - - 450 LETTER CLXXV. Streets of Vienna Squares Platz Graben Platz of the Hof Reception of the Em- peror and Emprejs at the Opera General freedom of manners in this city. 457 LETTER CLXXVI. Phafure of unobferved fptculatlon Dmmg- houfes, &c. defcrlbed Mufic Debate Political tirator. - 463 CON T E NT S. . lixx LETTER CLXXVII. Situation of Vienna Extent Promenades Climate Ufe of o fens State of Jlreets Houfes Lights Hackney coaches Or- der of city Police of Berne reprobated. Page 469 LETTER CLXXVIII. Singular rencontre Difcovery of Madgmc Y Reflection upon the character of the Hejjian, 47$ LETTER CLXXIX. Public buildings Court Univerjity Aca- demy Lombard Liberal inftitutions* Churches Cathedral St. Peter s Hof, or Court Church 'Tomb of Marefchal Laudohn Reflections upon fepulchral tr-o-' fbies. 479 LETTER CLXXX. Church of the Reformed Curious epitaph Intention of departure Cujlom of Ange- dencken Propofed route. Ixxii CONTENTS. LETTER CLXXXI. Pride of office Entrance upon Bohemia - Particulars refpeSting the country Bohe- mian beauty ^-Grievances of Wagen-travel- Ung. Page 488 LETTER CLXXXIL Travelling philofophy, 'what Vexatious de- but Prague defcribed Reflexions on its biftory Alliance of cruelty and religion. 49* LETTER CLXXXIII. Character of the inhabitants French politics Language of Bohemia Union 'with PruJJian infcheme of travel. 495 LETTER CLXXXIV. Departure from Prague Carriage defcribed - Price of travelling Dangers of the night Arrival at Peterfwalda. 498 LETTER CLXXXV. Village poft-hQiife Route to DrefdenDref* den defcribed Gallery Theatre Ap - 2 pearance: CONTENTS.' Ixxiti pearance of the Eleftor at the theatre compared with that of the Emperor Fair/ex Political landlord. Page 504 LETTER CLXXXVI. Route to Leipfig Leipjig dcfcribed Popu- lation Univerfity Church Promenade Character of the inhabitants. 509 LETTER CLXXXVII. Free difcujjion at Leipjig Departure for Berlin Adventure Injury repaired Arrival at Potsdam. - 512 LETTER CLXXXVIII. Advance ofpofting progrejftve Vifit to Sans- Souci Parade at Potxdam P ruffian fen- fibility. - 517 LETTER CLXXXIX. Journalise The fcarch Berlin defcrlbed ' Houfes contrajled with the inhabitants Opera y &c. Abfence of the King', its effetl Probable change infyftem. 522 CONTENTS. LETTER CXC. Landlord^ &c. Attendants on Jiranger Uving cofily Mode of life amongji the natives Cafes School of /peculation. Page 526 LETTER CXCI. Society Language Accent of Berlin and Vienna contrajled Eulogium ort the lan- guage Libraries Manners of people*- Humours of a dance Englifh rule of fafhion Pipes ^uejlion of trade. 530 LETTER CXCII. Severity of climate Schlofs PruJJian Count AJJimilation of German and Etigli/h cha- racler Study of government negleffed. 536 LETTER CXCIII. Diver/ions Theatre Rotunda Thiiregar- ten Charlottenburg Faflmnable ball Splendor Projetl of departure Morals of city German acutenefs. CONTENTS. Ixxv LETTER CXCIV. Courage defined Retreat from Berlin ac- counted for Entrance of Pojl-ivagen Wagen defcrlbed Inconveniences of route Conductors Arrival at Hamburg Ta- ble d* Hote. Pa ge 543 LETTER CXCV. Society defined Members of Table d'Hote defcrlbed Minifter HeJJian officer Lu- becker Hamburg officer Violent Antigal- licanifm of HeJJian Ear on Trench Anecdotes of Jofepb II. and laft Frederic HeJJtan Royalifm. 548 LETTER CXCVI. Pleafures of a commercial to'wn Storms Route projected Pofition, &c. of city Mode of life Military Burlefque dif- ticb Fete of Chrlftmas Anxiety for French and Englijb Intelligence. 554 LETTER CXGVIL Sequel of adventures Travelling Jlock of Elbe Haarburg Waggon^ Jxxvi CONTENTS. &c. -Luxuries of Bremen Journey re- fumed Rencontre Englifo pilot The contrast. Page 559 LETTER CXCVIII. Route to Leer Pilofs harangue Scrutiny Varieties on ivay to Neuejkans Gala Panic in Friejland Paffage to Gronin- gen Country defer ibed Cojtume Land- lord and pilot Strobufch Lemmer Pajfage rf Zuyder See Refidue of Jlock. LETTER CXCIX. Senfations on profpecl of port Calculations Dialogue CompacJ Refult Political ajpecl of country Route to Rotterdam Event at entrance Finances flrengthened Adventures on route to Helvoet Em- barkation View v of Harwich slpojlrophe of emigrant Landing Exit pilot Ar- rival at metropolis Change of cofiume Final reflexion. - - 570 LETTER I. Bruflels, April 21, 1791; MY engagement with you on leaving England Hands full in my recollec- tion. The delay, be afliired, has not arifen from any change of inclination or purpofe, but folely from circumftances of accidental embarrafTment. The channel is now open- ed, and you fhall have no reafon to charge me with a want of punctuality. That your expectations may not how- ever be unreafonably elevated, I will juft ftate the fort of entertainment I under- take to furnifh. The track of Europe, which we are to purfue, is already ex- plored: all that could create wonder or & afford 2 LETTER I. afford delight, has been fo often and fo fully difplayed in the volumes of ancient and modern travel, that curiofity feems nearly exhaufted. What in ages paft were marvels, are now bagatelles; and if afto- nifhment yet remains to be excited, Man- deville and Munchaufen have written in vain. I undertake not to unlock the cabinets of princes, or to difentangle the intrigues of courts: tranfient obfervation muft ill fucceed in developing the myfteries of political fyftems. Mine will neither be the voyage of the connohTeur, nor the journal of the naturalift: I can neither pretend to throw light upon the fchools of painting, nor the fcience of phyfics. If I climb the mountain, it will not be to gauge the atmofphere, to analife the foil, or to clafs the pebbles: if I range among the vallies, it will not be to gather the lilies, or catch the butterflies. But to human nature in all her varieties, to the 4 manners LETTER I. 3 manners of men and the temper of the times, to the habits of life and the Hate of opinions, my attention will be directed ; and my observations will be delivered, with only fo much of order or ornament as may happen to fuggeft itfelf at the moment of impreflion. Apprized therefore of my plan, you will not, if I depart from the ftrict line of gra- vity or criticifm, cenfure me as volatile, nor condemn me as fuperfkial. I appeal from your judgment, to your candour ; from the critic, to the friend : and if, after all, the merit of originality be wholly wanting ; you may at leaft derive a fort of pleafure from that variety^ under which the moft ex- haufted fubje&s rarely want fuccefs. Fa- fhions the moft obfolete are daily advanced by fome new colourings ; and an old play feldom wants attractions, when revived with new fcenes and drefies, [ 4 ] LETTER II. is fomettiing very peculiar in * the firft fenfations of a man who finds himfelf transferred to a foreign clime, whofe afpeft exhibits a groupe of novel images. This fenfation is perhaps felt with additional force by the inhabitant of an ifland who has been accuftomed to regard him- felf as " penitus toto divifus orbe." The coun- try he leaves, feems explored in every recefs, though he may not have traverfed half its pro- vinces : all before him forms a mighty vifta, which he contemplates with eager anxiety. I confefs the firft fight of the French coaft operated upon me like enchantment. With it feemed aflbciated all the images which bore relation to the hiftory of this wide extended empire the magnificence of its kings, and the luftre of its heroes ; its celebrity L E T T E R II. $ celebrity in arts, in letters, and in arms. When I confidered that this gallant nation, once the admiration and the dread of Eu- rope, was become the feat of internal dif- traction and the theatre of political experi- ment, I fighed over the recollection of its departed grandeur. But when I traced with deeper reflection the foundation of thefe divifions, and the objects of this ex- periment when I viewed in impartial retrofpect, the ambition and perfidy which fo remarkably characterized the govern- ment of that nation; how incompatible its wars with the principles of reafon or humanity, how formidable a rival it had ever proved to the power, how deter- mined an enemy to the repofe, of Britain' when I reflected how the cabals of this court had perpetuated diflenfion in the kingdoms of Europe, to gratify the paflions and aggrandize the power of its princes ; and in how many inftances the blood of nations had been facrificed to the caprice of 3 a miftrefs, 6 E T T E R II. a miftrefs, or the intrigues of a confeflbr, I could not but exult in the changes effected by the united energies of philofophy and patriotifm. The diforders which accompany every revolution of political moment, are the indifpenfable terms upon which fuch feli- city is to be obtained ; torrents of blood have been deemed not wantonly fpent, to procure a lefs good : and I could not but anticipate the coming asra, when the lafl touches {hall be put to a revolution, which has aftoniihed, and .may inftruct mankind: when out of the ruins of tyranny and fer- vitude, fhail arife a government, flourishing in all the luftre of reafonable authority and juft fubordination ; a government whofe internal policy {hall exhibit a king ruling by law, and a people obeying by choice ; whofe external policy fhall difplay the happy effects of an unambitious and equitable fyftem of conduct, in the permanent tranquillity of Europe. The L E T T E R II. 7 The ancient prejudices of this nation ac- knowledged no heroifrrL but that of the fword, and applauded no atchievements but thofe of conqueft. It was refe.rved for a later sera, and a more enlightened legiflature, to eftablifh the dominion of reafon on the ruins of prejudice; to annex to the life of each individual, an importance hitherto unfelt; to convert the laurels of war into civic wreaths ; arid decree thofe triumphs to the defenders of liberty, which had been pre- fcriptively appropriated to the defolators of their country, and the deftroyers of man- kind. C 8 J LETTER III. T7E landed at Oftend, and took the route by Ghent to Bruflels. This gave us .an opportunity of feeing a town, which has occupied an important place in the hiftory of Europe. Ghent, or Gand, poflefTed in ancient times a population far fuperior to its prefent numbers ; and was of fuch extent as to occafion a humorous boafl of Charles V,, that he could put all Paris in his glove, " dans fon Gand." This town, the capital of Auftrian Flanders, was long the feat of commerce in time of peace, and the bulwark of defence in time of war; no place has acquired more military fame, nor been witnefs to more heroic ads. The early records of its hiftory report the fpirit and intrepidity of the Gantois, The L E T T E R III. $ The pacification of Ghent forms a great epoch in their hiftory. This was formed in 1576, by a union of the eftates for the eftablifhment of their religious and civil pri- vileges, and ratified by Philip II. Famed for revolt and fedition of old, it became again the feat of tumult in 1787. Ghent had till that moment taken no decided part, but the entrance of the Brabanters in military force, joined to the infolence of the Auftrian foldiery, drew the citizens to the party of the infurgentSj and the Auftrian army quitted the place with difgrace. If we may credit the accounts given of this defeat, it redounds infinitely to the difcredit of the Auftrians, who, to the amount of feveral thoufand difciplined troops, abandoned the town, citadel, and magazine, to the depre- dations of three or four hundred vaga- bonds, " flying," as a writer exprefles it, " devant quelques malheureux de la po- " pulace, fans chefs, fans armes, and fa*ns ? c culottes." The lo LETTER HI. The iflue of thefe revolutional tumults had caft a gloom over the place. It wore the afpecl; of war, though in aftate of actual tranquillity. The majority of its inhabitants feem compofed of foldiers and ecclefiaftics ; and promenades, ftreets, and avenues were thronged with huffars, priefts, and beggars. The churches are the grand ornament of Ghent, as of every country under the influence of fuperftition. Thefe fa- cred edifices are adorned with all that art and riches can contribute to conftitute fplert- dour; but what renders them mod the object of a traveller's attention is, that they are the grand repofitories of the chefs d'ceuvres of the Flemifh fchool. The cathedral of St. Gedule is a mag- nificent building, and crowded with paint- ings of the Flemifh matters. Though it was paffion week, and the priefts were con- ftantly upon duty, the altars were not as ufual thronged with devotees. The popu- lation of a Catholic town may be eafily inferred LETTER III. n inferred from the afped of its churches at this facred feafon. Some few miferable wretches only were to be found engaged in their devotions, and bowing round the de- ferted fhrines. I fhall not enter into a detail of the works of the admirable artifts which embellilh this place, nor attempt to defcribe the fenfations created by them. I fufFered my fenfibilities to be fpontaneoufly excited, and probably often felt emotions at variance with academical law. Criticifm may decree what ought to pleafe ; but in painting, as in poetry, an appeal will not fail to be made from the underftanding to the heart Shake- fpeare has charmed, not only without^ but even againji rule : and yet the Englifli na- tion would rather facrifice the laws that control, and tbe critics that cenfure, than yield to oblivion and obfcurity one drama of the immortal bard. A town in the circumftances of Ghent, could not long find amufement for a travel- ler 5 the ferocious afpect of the military, whofe 12 L E T T E R III. \vhofe numbers and difcipline are fcarcely fufficient to retain in fubj edition the turbu- lent malcontents, added to the gloom of evacuated houfes and a deferted theatre, induced us to quit Ghent on the following day, and purfue our route to Bruflels. I could not leave the town without lamenting the evils which have defaced and depopu- lated a place, that once poflefled fuch ilrength, fplendour, and opulence. The miferies of unfuccefsful revolt are here ao>- cumulated upon the head of the laborious and peaceful citizen. Political grievances when extended to an enormous height demand political reform ; and this can, in certain cafes, only be effected by popular oppofition. That there exifted circumftances fufficiently aggravating, and fufficiently oppreffive, to warrant the re^- monftrances preferred by the Brabanters, cannot be difputed. The cabals of his mi- nifters and agents, rather than the dif- pofition of the Emperor, prevented the equitable LETTER III. ,3 equitable arrangements at firft required ; till the fpirits of either party became heated, and ineffectual remonftrance was fucceeded by- outrageous revolt. The knavery and mif- conduft of thofe who headed the refractory Belgians, were the caufes of thofe diftrefles and diftra&ions which afterwards attended them. The conceflions of Leopold are a demon- ftrative proof of the injuftice of Jofeph. Had Belgiojafo poflefled the conciliating talents of Merci d'Argenteau, the fword probably had never been drawn ; and had there been prudence and patriotifm in the leaders of the revolt, had the pofts of Van- dernoot and Van Eupen been fupplied by a Mirabeau and a Fayette, the fword had not been (heathed till Belgic independence had been eftablifhed. 1 have ever commiferated the lot of a country, which by conqueft or ceffion has become the appendage of a great empire. An arbitrary monarch may poflefs in fome 2 happy H LETTER III. happy moments the feelings of a man, and all that lies within the compafs of his own adminiftration comes more or lefs under his own infpection; but a government by agent, fuffragan, or viceroy, is furely a government moft formidable to the liberties of a people. How are they to prefs through that phalanx of minifters, penfioners, and courtiers, which fill up all the avenues of appeal ? The diftarice from the fountain of authority extinguifhes hope of redrefs, and urges them to remedies the moft violent and defperate. C '5 1 LETTER IV. tT7E find BrufTels invefted with the fame military terrors, and deformed by the fame melancholy rites, as Ghent. That part of the town in which the people of faftiion refide, is of modern date; the houfes are built of Hone, the apartments fpacious, and the general afpeft of the place is magnificent. The gloomy ceremonies of the holy week have thrown a veil over the ufual gaieties of this capital, and interrupt for the prefent the tide of amufement. Even active occupation is in great part fuf- pended ; and the church has fupplanted the theatre, the ball-room, and the exchange. The avenues of the cathedral are crowded from morning to night. All ranks and 1 conditions feem unanimous in the celebra- tion of the facred feafon. The 16 LETTER!^. The carnival, which I under/land was uncommonly brilliant, has left behind it the memory of fome irregularities ; but if the moft afliduous and uninterrupted attendance upon the ceremonies of the church can avail, there will not remain a folly to blufh for, or a crime to repent of. It is really amu- fmg to fee the multitudes that throng around the facred porticoes, and the ardour of the devotional penance which they difcover. Not content with worfhipping at one fhrine, and making intereft with one faint, they fly from altar to altar, feek an intereft in every facrifice, and mingle their devotions with the incenfe of every order. In England, it is deemed unneceflary for the great to in- terfere in the fervices of religion ; fafhion and convenience are there paramount to reafon and duty; but here the greatefl blend with the meaneft in all the fervices which are called religious, however jealous of rank and fuperiority in civil and focial life. A card- L E T T E R IV* 17 A card-party was formed on Friday evening, being the Vendredi Saint, the fingular object of which induces me to mention it. It was held at the apartments of the Comtefie de Choifeul, and attended by moft of the fafhionable people. Agreea- bly to the law of the afiembly, the gains of the evening were to be difpofed of, at the difcretion of the lady of the houfe, in pur- pofes of charity. This is a cuftom of ancient eftablifhment. An afiembly of this nature, where plea- fure and religion are combined, muft give birth to many fingular impreflions. No day in the calendar can wear a more gloomy face, or excite more devotional fentiments in the breaft of a catholic, than the day of the crucifixion. Every means are employed to excite fuperflidous horror, and recal to the mind the memory of that darknefs which en- veloped the face of the earth. All thar breathes the air of diffipation muft be en- tirely banifhed, and amufement fo qualified c fry i8 L E T T E R IV. by motive, and fo chaftifed by aufterity, as to receive the ferious caft of religious exer- cife. To-morrow is, I underftand, the con- cluding day of this fevere penance: con- folation will then be admmiftered to the confciences of the devotees, who will emerge, fully acquitted of all paft guilt, arid at liberty to commence a frefii account. The ftreets, parade, and promenades will refume their brilliancy : at prefent, they ex- hibit a ftriking picture of fpiritual indolence. Superftition has long fince confecrated this week to purpofes which are deemed incom- patible with fecular occupation. The days being too facred for labour, and too long for devotion, a great part of time is yawned away in liftlefs ennui.- The confecration of days* is a cuftom of barbarous origin; and the pious enthufiafm of the firft chriftians gave it the fanction of their own obfervance. The church of Eng- * This is only to be underftood in reference to days con- fecrated to particular ferfons. land, LETTER IV. 19 land, which has had the merit of reftoring to fociety the days and weeks hallowed by bigotry, ftill retains fome few, which fhe refufes to fecularize, and which ferve, like the ancient hangings in a modernized man- fion, to mark the date of the edifice, and perpetuate the tafte of thofe who undertook its reform. It is plain, the contract between pried and people in thofe regions of fuper- ftition, is very much in favour of the former, though equally to the fatisfaclion of each. The latter furrender without reluctance the fruits of their labour to the ufe of the former, who only engage for an undefined retribution a bright reversion in the fky at fome future and diftant period. C 2 LETTER V. Bruflels, April 24, V AM juft returned from aflifting at a cere- mony, in which I appeared to myfelf to make no very refpedable figure. A pro- clamation, pofted in a public fpot near the Hotel de Ville, announced the return of a celebrity, in which all pious catholics take great intereft, and from which, agreeably to the tenor of the advertifement, every devout chriftian might derive great advantage. It was the celebration of an event mod im- portant to the caufe of religion, in the pre- fervation of the Image of the Virgin Mary, from the anti-catholic zeal of the reformers of Scotland. The attachment of her friends induced them to hazard much for her fafety. They fled beyond fea with her, and after a thoufand L E T T E R V. 21 thoufand miracles, and experiencing nu- merous viciflitudes, " per varies fluctus et u tot difcrimina rerum," they aufpicioufly reached Brufiels. Mafny honours were paid her upon her arrival on the Continent, and particularly at the ceremony of her folemn reception among the Auguftine monks. Succeflive popes concurred in granting plenary pardons to all who would commemorate the anniverfary of her happy deliverance. The Image was placed in the centre of the church, and illuminated with numberlefs tapers. High mafs was fung, to which fucceeded a variety of religious di- vertifementS) intended to reprefent the hair- breadth efcapes the Virgin had experienced, and the efficacy which this wonderful Image ftill poflefled. All feemed eager to croud around her, and fome never quitted her feet. A fplendid proceflion concluded the fervice : and the holy fathers chaunted their lays, preceded by all kinds of myfterious infignia, from their own to the church of St. Gedule. e 3 As 22 L E T T E R V. As I was not fo deeply interefted in the ceremonies as the reft of the congregation, I had more leifure to comment on the drama. The devotion of the people was ynqueftionably fmcere. They bowed, and proflrated themfeives, with an energy and fer- vour, which indicated the moft unfufpicious faith in her more than magnetical virtue. I obferved feveral walking round the fhrine, and bowing with the utmoft inconvenience to themfeives, left they fhould accidentally turn their backs upon her. As I had dif- pofed myfelf in the middle of the aiile, the proceflion pafied me, and gave me an oppor- tunity of admiring the happy influence of a religious life upon thefe holy fathers, who leemed to have profited much from the refidence cf the Virgin among them. Coun- tenances more expremve of pleafure and feftivity could not be found, even in the paradife of Mahomet. It was not a little furprifmg to fee fo great a multitude af- lifting at thofe fervices, confidering the regent L E T T E R V. 23 recent penance performed in the holy week. It fhould feem that the people of Bruflels muft be defperate finners, or exemplary faints. The quantum of holinefs, including all the beads that are counted, and the Ave- Marias that are faid, bears certainly, if any allowance be made for human frailty, more than a juft proportion to the ordinary quantum of fin. But here mankind are perfuaded that none of thofe pious duties will be loft. When fufficient has been done to cancel their own crimes, all fuper- numerary ads become a fort of clear gain, which refts entirely at their own difpofal. The canons of the church allow the tranf- fer of this, with the fame eafe as any other fpecies of alienable property. If a man die inteftate, it naturally reverts to the church, and becomes a part of the eccle- fiaftical fund. This commerce, in paft ages fo productive to the proprietors, has fuf- fered confiderably in its revenues. A great c 4 part 24 L E T T E R VI. part of Europe, however, continues pioufly attached to the old traffic, and multitudes yet facrifice folid pofleffions for this imagi- nary property; convinced, it fhould feem, that the exchange is decidedly in their favour. BETTER VI, Bruffeb, April 27, 1791. E gloom is diflipated, the curtain is drawn up, and the gay orgies of plea- fure fucceed to the melancholy folemnities of penance. The theatre is opened, the artificers refume their occupations, and the circles of the fafhionable world their amufe- ments. If I read aright the countenances of thofe who are emerged from religious aufterity to pleafurabie relaxation, they are not a little gratified by the change. The torrent of feftivity, which is now opened, appears L E T T E R VI. 25 appears to infmuate, that religious aufterity has had its effect ; that its devout fubje&s have amply cancelled all paft guilt, and made, as it were, Heaven their creditor for future fins. The theatre is under very bad manage- ment. The edifice itfelf is fufficiently large and commodious, but the fcenery and the performers are much below mediocrity; though the enormous price paid for the boxes, which are engaged by particular per- fons, brings in a revenue fully adequate to its fupport. The fociety here is numerous and brilliant ; regular evenings are appro- priated to thofe ladies who lead the ton. In addition to thofe which are eftablifhed, and of ordinary recurrence, concerts and dances are occafionally given. An intro- duction once effected, and the regular ceremonies of etiquette performed, the whole field of amufement is opened, and wherever you hear mention of feftivities, you are at liberty to participate them. The 2 Comtefle 26 L E T T E R VI. Comtefle de Choifeul is at the head of thefe parties ; at a very advanced period of life, {he pofieflfes found health and hilarity of fpirits. The duties and the pleafures of life occupy the whole of her attention, and her time is divided between amufement and devotion. The dignity of her age and fiction, and the courteoufnefs of her mariners, give her the higheft importance in the fafhionable aflemblies. The modem champion of chivalry has expreffed in terms of brilliant lamentation, his iorrow for the extinction of the ancient gallantry of France. But this I affure you, that, however expatriated, and rooted from its native foil, gallantry flourifties here with increafing vigour: and in no part of Eu- rope, perhaps, is the empire of the fair fex fo firmly eftabiiihed. All who would move in the fphere of polite life, muft pafs the ordeal of female fcrutiny. The " Ladies club," is by far the moft brilliant fociety here, and this club difpofes of LETTER VI. 27 of the fates of every ftranger, who folicits a part in the amufements of the place. The ladies who compofe it have their regular times of meeting, and of fettling bufmefs. The ftranger who fues for initiation muft in due form be propofed ; and, under the direction of the lady prefident, the club proceeds to a ballot. Nor is this always an ineffective form. The club gave a ball lately at the hotel " Prince de Galles." Each female member has the privilege of introducing a gentleman for the evening, and it was in virtue of this privilege that I obtained admittance. The company were numerous, and exhibited a fplendid {how of beauty and rank. The greater part was formed by the fugitive noblefle of France. Here were rallied the fcattered members of the dif-embodied phalanx ; and, in defiance of decrees and fpoliations, gave brilliancy and hilarity to the aflembly. E 28 3 LETTER VII. Bruffels, May I, 1791. pOLiTENESSisa term with all mankind of familiar and continual life ; all fup- pofe they underftand it; and to requeft a definition, would be to offer an affront. I had an opportunity a few evenings paft, of feeing it exemplified, at leaft in a manner very entertaining, by the Marquis de , who has lately purchafed an eftate in the vicinity of BrufTels, upon the excellence of which, he was enlarging to fome Englifh ladies the convenience of his houfe,and the elegance of his gardens, in which he had exactly copied the Englifh ftile. He had ftored his cellars with excellent wine, and nothing was wanting to his felicity, but the honour of their opinion upon the tafte and execution LETTER VII. 29 execution of the whole. The ladies gave him to underftand, that his defcription had fo fafcinated them, that they would certainly not lofe fo fair an opportunity of being amufed. This was what the Marquis neither in- tended nor expected, yet the embarraflment caufed no vifible interruption of his conver- fation. Nothing could indeed charm him more than the honour the ladies intended him, but he muft not at the fame time ne- glect to inform them that his houfe had fufFered confiderably in the late tumults his ground had been ravaged his plant- ations deflroyed his cellars robbed and, in a word, fuch diforders committed, that the prefent fituation of his villa would not recompenfe the ladies for the trouble they would be at in vifidng him ; and, conclud- ing with a turn of pleafantry and a hand- fome bow, left the room with an air " par " faitement .bien" I was 3 to this placet The church and- theatre are flill in exiftence, but all around proclaims the matter's fall. Upon returning from Voltaire's villa, we found the gaieties of the ball-room were commencing ; but,, adopting the prudence of the " conviva- " iatur," we entered our whifkey for Ge- neva. As- we drove through the town, we were received with fhouts, and waving of hats. Thefe compliments we returned in the bed manner we could ; and bade adieu to Ferney, not a little fatisfied with the adventurer of the day. LETTER XLIII. Laufanne, July 20, 1791 . BY a change of fyftem, our refidence at Geneva was Shortened by two months, and we are now at Laufanne or rather in the environs, whkh are delicious beyond compare. The fcenery wants indeed that foftnefs and harmony whkh the Genevefe territory pofleffes ; but then it has to boaft magnificence, boldnefs, and variety. The lioufe we inhabit, is in the village of Ouchy, nearly a mile and half from the town. It is fmall and ruftic, fituated within a dozen yards of the Lake, and confronted by the mountains of Savoy, and the rocks of Mil- lerie. Since we have been here, the Lake ^which is fubject to ebb and flow has been more than once worked into a ftorm, and rifen to a considerable height. This is a phenomenon for the folution of which jnany 2i8 LETTER XLIU. many hypothefes have been offered. That moft approved is Mr. Bertrand's, who fup- pofes, that eledric clouds elevate the waters to various degrees of height, in proportion to the quantity of the eledric fluid ; and that the fubiequeut fall, or finking of the wa- ters particularly in the narrow parts of the Lake, where thefe fetches^ as they are called, are moft violent occafions thefe fudden ftorms. Here is a good circulating library, and gazettes of every kind. But Laufanne is now fo much frequented by foreigners, and particularly Englilh, that every thing pe- culiar and original is extirpated. In com- pliance with fafhion and intereft, every thing is anglic'ifed ; and you may now have the fatisfadion of .paying as much for the hire of a horfe, a carriage, or a houfe, as at the moft fplendid place of Englifh re- fort. Gibbon is the grand monarque of lite- rature at Laufanne : I have feen, converfed, and LETTER XLIII. 2,9, and dined with him. Thefe are, I think, the three requifites, in order to know fome- thing of a man. His converfation is correct and eloquent j his periods are meafured, and his manner of delivering them folemn. He appears rather inditing to an amanuen- fis, than holding converfation with a ftran- ger. But though he talks too oracularly, he is at his table cheerful, frank, and convi- vial. His hofpitalities are however not ftrictly patriotic ; his predilection for the Swifs is notorious ; and, as a love of pre- eminence may not be clafled amongfl the lead of his failings, he feems to have decided well in the choice of his fociety. The ftate of the weather here is remark- ably fine, but hot to a degree of fuffocation. We purpofe taking advantage of this part of the feafon, and making in a few days a viiit to the Glaciers of Chamouni. I have now full in my recollection, the firft glimpfe I caught of thofe wonderful regions. It was on my way from Paliere to Laufanne, and 219 LETTER XLIII. and within about a league of this latter place. We had alighted from our carnage, while the horfes afcended a hill j - and as we ap- proached the fummit, one of the mod mag- nificent fights in nature prefented itfelf on a Hidden to our aftonifhed eyes : it was a dif- tant view of the Glaciers; and the unufual appearance they made, would not naffer me to fuppofe that they were of a folider tex- ture than the fleecy and tranfparent cloud ; till the reports of thofe better acquainted with the country, rectified the errors of an indiftincT: vifion. It was at the clofe of the day, and all the luflre of a fetting fun was playing upon their fpotlefs fummits. The fcenery was at once novel, and fublime. I anticipate a thoufand pleafures in vifiting thefe fmgular regions, where an external conflict is kept up between heat and cold ; and mountains of ice experience no fenfible diminution from the fcorching rays of a fol- ftitial fun* 3 [ 22! ] LETTER XLIV. Laufanr.e, Aug. 10, 1791. JAM now returned from a tour among the Glaciers ; and what my recolle&ion, aided by an occafional note made on the way, can fupply, fhall now be penned down for your amufement. It was on Thurfday, July 28, that we left Laufanne on this expedition. We compofed together a party of feven, not including fervants. The morning of the 2gth, we left Geneva, at an early hour ; and croflfmg the brook at Chefne, little more than a mile from the town of Geneva, we entered the territory of Savoy. The road to Bonneville, the town where we firft halted, became gra- dually mountainous, and we at length found purfelves at the foot of the Mole. Of this mountain I have before remarked, that its appearance 222 LETTER XLIV. appearance from Geneva prefents a conical form ; but this vaniflied as we approached : and, agreeable to the teftimony of Mr. Sauf- fure, fome who have made an expedition to Bonneville in order to examine the Mole, have returned without feeing it having miftaken for it fome other mountain whofc figure refembled moft nearly the form under which this appears at a diftance. We began, in this part of our journey, to enter the land of fprings, and the heat being immoderate, often regaled ourfelves with draughts from thefe icy waters. We were drefled in the lighteft clothing, yet fuffered very much from the fcorching rays of the fun, and their reflection from the fides of the moun- tains. We took fome refrefliment at Bon- neville, and found melter there for fome hours from the fervors of the day. I ftrolled to the church for amufement, and found it not behind its fellows in faintly dignity. Many cafkets were placed upon the different altars, containing moft unqiieftlonaUe frag- jo ments LETTER XLIV. ^23 ments of ancient worthies. I tranfcribed from one of thefe precious repofitories the following infcription I leave the Monk who wrote it, to defend the purity of its concords. " Reliquias Sanclae Vincentice rite cognitas " in hoc capfulo inclufas generation! fide- *' Hum Bonopolis in facello S d Petri exponi " permittuntur." We left Bonneville after repofing two or three hours, and pafled by a very fmgular and romantic route to Salenche. Every pot- fible diverfity of fcenery is to be found in this latter ftage. Springs and cafcades iflue from the roots of the rocks which inclofe the track, or fcatter their waters down the (helv- ing fides. The heat raged unabated, till the approach to Salenche gave us a diftant view of the Glaciers, whofe icy fummits af- forded to the imagination at lead fome relief. Salenche terminated our journey of the day, and the evening was employed in making the necefiary arrangements for our conveyance to Chamouni, and viewing a cafcade 224- LETTER XLIV. cafcade at fome little diftance j I know not its name. The approach to it was over rough and loofe ftones, fome of which lay fo far under the water, that it was problemati- cal whether the feet would alight upon them or not. The cataract guihed from a hollow rock, and was not without its grotefque or- naments ; but when the difficulties of egrefs and regrefs are calculated, the balance of pleafure preponderates but little in its fa- vour. From a neceffity to which we were conr drained to fubmit-- we were not provided with (har-a-bancs on the following day till near eleven o'clock. The char-a-banc is a fmall ftrong carnage, in which two or three may ride. Upon this you fit, with your feet near the ground, reding upon a fwinging board, and are drawn Tideways. It is fur- prizing how faft the mules trot with thefe vehicles at their heels, over fome of the roughed and mod craggy tracks ; their feet are at once Hire and invulnerable. Qur char- a-bancs LETTER XLIV. 225 a-bancs halted at the village of Chede, and we were very greatly entertained with a view of the cafcade. The water appeared to fall from a height of about 150 feet: as it defcends it is very regularly fcattered, till in the lower -part of its defcent it is diffipat- ed in the gentleft diftillatiori. There was much beauty in this fine cafcade, the effect of which is not a little improved by the fur- rounding fcenery. We had loft the hour at which it is viewed to the greateft advan- tage, the guides affuring us that had we arrived fomewhat fooner, we fhould have had the pleafure of feeing a rainbow formed upon this trarifparent fliower. Re- entering our char-a-bancs, we pafled over a rpugh and broken track, blocked up in fome parts by hideous mafles of rock, inter- cepted in others by furious torrents that poured from the heights, till we entered upon a charming plain, in which was lituat- ed St. Gervais. Here all was gaudy. The Cure had given an entertainment : VOL. i. Q mafs 226 LETTER XLV. mafs was juft over, and the villagers had commenced their dance. We partook under a tree of the refrefhments of the place, and diverted ourfelves with feeing thefe peafants perform the evolutions of the Valz. Short- ly after this we entered the valley of Cha- mouni, and arrived by five o'clock at the foot of the Glacier de Boifons, LETTER XLV. / /-TAKE Glacier de Boifons is the firft to which ftrangers are generally intro- duced. It makes fcarcely any figure from the valley, (landing among many others of much greater magnitude. Being feverally fur- nifhed with a long (lick pointed with iron, we afcended with eafe the lower part of the mountain, which was covered with turf and not very fteep ; but the approach to- wards the ice was difficult, and the (licks were eminently ufeful. Previous to our ar- rival LETTER XLV. 227 rival upon the level with theMer-de-glace,we were flopped by the guides in order to view the magnificent profpect before us. It pre- fented a range of icy pyramids of the pureft complexion, and of the boldeft forms : we were filled with aftonifhment at a fpectacle which blended fo perfectly the grand and the beautiful. Arrived at the fummit of the mountain, we entered upon the Glacier, but found great difficulty in keeping our feet. The fun had glofled the furface, and rendered it almoft impoffible to tread with any degree of fecu- rity. In paffing amongft thefe frozen tracts, we came to many wide chafms and gulphs of a formidable depth. We threw down flakes of ice or ftones, whofe fall returned a tremendous found. It was curious to ob- ferve upon the higheft parts many malTes of ftone ready to precipitate ; and upon the mountains in defcending we faw fome of dreadful bulk, which had at different times been tumbled from the fummit of the Glacier. 0^ 2 Pierre 228 LETTER XLV. Pierre Balmat, our principal guide, related to us, that he was witnefs to the fall of one of the largeft of thefe ; and that it was at- tended with the moft tremendous circum- ftances. Indeed it appears extraordinary that men fhould be found to inhabit regions, where they are continually expofed to thefe impending dangers. All the way as we de- icended, we obferved the ruins of trees whofe trunks had been fplit afunder, or their roots torn from the ground, by the violence of thefe Avalanches. We had fuffered but little fatigue by the whole of this expedi- tion ; the ice afforded us water of the moft refrefhing coolnefs, and ftrawberries abounded upon the mountain over which we palled on leaving the ice. Evening was now advancing : we re-entered our char- a-bancs, and ihortly arrived at the Priory of Chamouni. Pierre Balmat undertook all the necefTary arrangements for the bufmefs of Montan- vert, which we were next to undertake ; and LETTER XLV. 229 and the following morning, after an early mafs, came to announce that all was in rea- nefit LETTER XLIX. 247 nefit of their fouls. The pious pilgrim was in a garment refembling' that which honeft Bimyan has defcribed his hero to have re- ceived from one of \hzjhining ones. It was variegated with the brighteft colours, adorn- ed with {hells, mottoes, and portraits of the moft fuccefsful interceflbrs in behalf of thofe who praclife pilgrimage and pe- nance. He bore a tall ftaff, his feet were bare, that is to fay the upper parts, and thus he was about to crofs the rugged flints of St. Bernard ; in order to vifit the holy fhrine of Loretto, and in the fpirit of an*. tient fuperftition " to feek him dead who lives in Paradife," LETTER XLIX. |T was about ten o'clock when we entered the village of St. Pierre ; and, as the Convent of St. Bernard was but three kagues diftant from this place, we deter- K 4 mined 248 LETTER XL T X. mined upon making ourvifit immediately, an4 returning to St. Pierre in the evening. We requeued our hoftefs to prepare us a fupper. The good woman talked of honey and goats- milk ; we questioned her upon the articles of bread and meat ; Die affured us that there was neither butcher nor baker in the town, but that me would fend up to the moun- tains to kill a fheep for our accommodation. It. was indeed our fate, wherever we flop- ped, to fpread {laughter and devaftation. We had fcarcely entered our quarters at St. Blanchier, when the moft difmal fcreams aflailed us from the hen-rooft. Scarcely had we quitted St. Pierre, on our route to St. Bernard, before we faw a remorfelefs clown, deputed to that ferviceby our hoftefs, fcaling the mountain, and feizing the af- frighted and defencelefs fheep. We blufhed for the diforders we had introduced into thefe Arcadian regions, where all was inno- cence- as in the age of Gold, and the peace- ful reign of Saturn. Here the flocks feem- 3 ed LETTER XLIX. 249 qd proprietors of the mountains, and the, wants of men were fatisfied without the ef- fufion of blood ; here the woods appear- ed facred to folitude and filence. Where the rude axe with heaved ftroke Was never heard the nymphs to daunt, Or frighrthem from their hallowed haunt. In leaving St. Pierre the track divides- that to the left, opening into the Valforey; that to the right, conducting to St. Bernard. From ihefe oppofite directions iflue two dreams, which are feverally denominated from the Valforey and the St. Bernard; and which uniting a little below, form that tor- rent which pours along the valley of Entre- mont. St. Pierre is the laft village of the Valais in this route; and from this to the Convent of St. Bernard, they eftimate three leagues or hours. Soon after leaving the village, we entered upon a coarfe and rugged plain, ftrewed with fragments of flone, which had been wafhed down from the 250 LETTER XLTX the heights ; and from this we continued to afcend over rocks of fh-apelefs afperity. In pafllng thefe I was indebted to my mule, whofe dexterity in running up the fteep de- clivities excited my aftonifhment, and I ought to add, my gratitude. The moft provoking property of thefe animals is, that they will always coaft upon the preci- pice. I more than once laboured to force my mule to abandon this dangerous fyftem, but he taught me acquiefcence, by either making a full ftop, or, if I perfiftcd, in be- taking hirnfelf to a fit of kicking. I am perfuaded, that no one ever reached thq heights of St. Bernard in this mode of tra- vel, without having learnt more of paffive obedience and moral refignation, than he would ever have acquired from Sir Robert Filmer, or the Whole Duty of Man. \Ve had now climbed about two leagues and a half over a very rugged and flinty track, difcovered rather by the induflry of our guides and the recollection 6f our mules, LETTER XLIX. 251 than by any veftiges of former footfteps. We at length crofled the torrent which takes its rife a little above us, and now entered upon the mod dreary and melancholy fcenes. The mountains on every fide were rugged and naked, except where the fnow continued undiflblved the whole of the year, nearly a quarter of a league. Before we reach- ed the Convent, we pafled through a track of fnow, many parts of which were more than a foot deep. This fnow liquidates very {lowly : it is a part of the mountain exptffed to the north, and which enjoys but for a few mo- ments the rays of the fun. A few years pad it continued undiflblved the whole of the fummer; and the pious fathers began to feel alarm, left it fhould accumulate and form a Glacier. We arrived by three o'clock at the door of the Convent. Our guide demanded ad- mittance, when one of the order came to the door, and invited us to enter and par- take of the refrefhment of their " pauvre hofpice." a 5 2 LETTER XLIX. hofpice." He was indeed particularly forty it fhould have been a day of penance, and feared left the kitchen could not afford us a fuitable repaft. He accompanied us over the Convent, fhowed us the feveral apart- ments, library, chapel, &c. We were Jeated in a gloomy faloon, after due obfer- vation of the rarities of the place ; and a very frugal meal was ferved up, the. brother of the order himfelf waiting upon us. \Ve urged him to partake with us-?-he excufed himfelf, by faying that he had dined at their ufual hour of half paft ten. We en- treated him not to ftand ; he refifted our entreaties, by afluring us that it became him, and fupplicating us to receive the hofpitalities of the Convent " au nom da ' Dieu" t LETTER L. I UR venerable hoft had, in the interval of preparation for dinner, conducted us round the environs of the Convent, and wretched indeed was the fcenery which fur- rounded thefe pious fathers. The whole mountain is of fo obdurate and untradable a nature, that no art or labour can render it a fubject of cultivation. There were two or three fmall interfaces between the rocks, in which thefe induftrious men had difpofed fome mould imported from the foil of St. Pierre ; by means of which with the greateft difficulty they raife a few vege- tables. The whole crop would have fcarce- ly filled an ordinary plate : but elevated into thefe regions of cold and folitude, they have recourfe to any little expedient which may occupy their hopes, and diflipate the ennui of perpetual imprifonment. Theirs is indeed a fate, 254 L t T T E & t. a fate, though felf-impofed, beyond the ri- gors of the fevered punifhment. From the cheerful ways of men Cutoff, and for the book of knowlege fair Prefenred with an univerfal blank Of Nature's works, to them expunged and rafed. The good father who performed the ho- nours of the place, told us, that he had been twelve years in this Convent j and, though be was not in reality more than thirty years of age, his countenance was fo haggard, fo fallow, and fo fickly, that he appeared quite a veteran. We afked him after the reft of his comrades ; he faid, they were gone " fe promener." It is diverting to hear of a promenande, in regions where every ftep leads to frefh dangers, and every change of fcene is only an aggravation of horrors. He fpoke of a journey to St. Pierre, as a boy would of his holidays ; and made as much of an excurfion to Martigny, as an Englifh- man would of a trip to Newmarket.- 1 -" On y va," faid he, " des fois pou$ s*egayer" He L E T T E R L. 255 He fhewed us a fmall lake near the Convent, in which they had attempted to keep fome fifli; but the coldnefs of the water almoft inftantly killed them. This lake is, he faid, feldom free from ice, and was fro- zen over laft year fo late as the month of Auguft* Indeed the water he gave us to mix with our wine was prodigiouily cold. He afiured us it was two degrees below the flandard of freezing. We were {hewn a fpot upon which once flood a temple of no mean fame, and the ground is ftill fcattered with fragments of ftone. It has been a fubjecl: of much difpute among the learned what route Hannibal purfued in crofting the Alps. An attempt has been made from the evidence collected on thefe Tuins, to fix this route in the paf- fage over St. Bernard. This opinion is not new, as M. SaufTure has remarked. It wat prevalent in the time of Livy, and he oppofes it as deftitute of foundation. Pliny was afterwards of opinion, that he padccl by 256 L E T T E R L. by the Mons Jovis, or Penninus. The lat- ter of thefe appellations is referred to the Celtic word Pen^ which fignifies high. M. Sauffure fpeaks of numerous ex-votos, which he has himfelf feen; the greater part of which are of bronze, and bear infcribed, fome, JO VI PENNING; others, JO VI POENINO. From the latter of thefe it has been concluded, that Hannibal erected a temple here to the God of his country, in teftimony of gratitude for the difcovery of the paiTage. The ftatue of the Jupiter in queftion, is proved to have been deftroyed by Conftantine, from a pillar which now" (lands at the foot of the mountain at St. Pierre : it is infcribed to Conftantine the younger. St. Bernard was a Savoyard, and arch- deacon of Aofte in the year 962. Since his time the bofplce has been twice deftroyed by fire. This inftitution was formerly very opulent ; it pofiefTed lands in Sicily, Eng- , the Low Countries, &c. of which it is now L E T T E R L. 257 now pretty well fhorn. For Its fupport at prefent, it is in great meafure indebted to the alms collected in different parts of the country. There is upon the mountain near the Convent, a ftone, which marks the boundary of -the Vallais on the one fide, and the king cf Sardinia's eftates on the other. The contiguity of this Convent to the latter has produced fome altercations ; and, at the beginning of this century, the king of Sardinia difputed with the Swifs the right of nominating a Provoft, or Head. This, after much oppofition, was decided in favour of the Swifs; who deemed it of importance, that a foreign king fhould not nominate to a benefice within their dominions, parti- cularly to one fo important, as that of St. Bernard has always been efteemed. I know not the precife number of this fo- ciety : they are all regular Auguftines : the Provoft is elected by the Chapter, and con- firmed by the Pope. He refides at Mar- tigny. Next to him, is aPrieurClauftral, who VOL. I. s ads i" 5 8 L E T T E R L. acts as Prefident, and refides at the Convent. Beildes thefe, there is a Sacriftan, who has the care of the chapel ; a Cellerier, who fuperintends the provifions ; a Clavandier, who diftributes to travellers ; and an Infir- mier, who takes charge of the Tick. Ufually not more than eight or ten refide ; and powerful muft be that motive which deter- mines men, who can exift elfewhere, to fuch a mode of life. T LETTER LL HE principal duties of thefe Bernar- dines fall in the feafon when fnows and ftorms are moft frequent. At that time they are conftantly in the habits of watch- ing occafions for the exercife of their ho- fpitable functions : a fervant, whom" they call the Maronnier, goes before the travellers who pafs this way during the perilous feafon, with a large dog, peculiar to the mountain. This dog is of an enormous fize, and of fingular LETTER LI. 259 fingular fagacity. We faw two of them at the Convent. Thefe dogs have the wonder- ful talent of difcovering the way through fogs and fnows, as alfo of fcenting out the bodies of thofe who have perifhed by the feverity of the cold. During the whole of the winter, the brothers at the Convent are employed in fearching for miferable objects who have loft their way, or have been bu- ried in the fnows, by the terrible avalanches which happen in the fevere feafon. Each is furniflied with a ftick pointed with iron. With thefe they found, wherever the dogs direct ; and by lhaking, chafing, and other remedies, they frequently reftore thofe who are fortunate enough to be found before animation is totally extinct. The height of this mountain is eftimated at about 7542 Englifh feet perpendicular above the level of the Mediterranean. The nature of their fituation expofes them to a tnoufand maladies. Indeed they looked like the fa- mily of death. It was fo cold in the Convent, that they requefted permifHon to kindle a s 2 fire 260 L E T T E R LI. fire for us ; and yet it was the third of Au- guft. I corifefs to you, I could not view their fituation, nor hear the detail of their fufTerings, without afking myfelf the queftion, whether the fervices rendered to fociety by thefe men were at all pro- portioned to the pain with which they are effected. I am of opinion that few would, in modern days, undertake a pilgrimage over St. Bernard, if they were not fure of three * days entertainment on the way : and I cannot think highly of an inftitution calculated only to keep alive an almoft obfo- lete fuperftition. M. SauiTure has taken fome pains to defend this inftitution in its prefent ftate; and certainly if, as this au- thor affirms, the paffage of St. Bernard is of great importance to the Vallais on one fide, and the Lombards on the other ; if the communication between thefe two divided countries be of fuch reciprocal advantage; the labours of thefe religious, and their So much is allowed by charter to every pilgrim. feclufion LETTER LI. 2 6i feclufion from fociety, merit the approba- tion of the world. There was fomething fo unufually dreary and ungenial in the afpect of this place, that we were impatient, after due gratifi- cation of our curiofity, to leave it. We had ordered our mules; and while thefe were preparing, the ikies blackened prodigioufly, and a heavy ilorm of hail and thunder came on. The monks were urgent with us to pafs the night in the Convent ; but we were unanimous in wiftring to take our leave of thefe grim and ftormy regions. We de- fcended through a deluge of rain, from which we fhortly iflued, and left behind us the ftcrms and the hail, to drench the Convent of St. Bernard. Doubtlefs thefe fa- thers muft be actuated by fome powerful principle, infixing their abode in thefe re- gions of mifery : by their voluntary fuffer- ings here, they no doubt hope to' mitigate the pains of purgatory hereafter. I know not what purgatory is, but I {hould think s 3 it 262 L E T T E R LI. it almoft worth hazarding, rather than en- dure the penance of a refidence during life upon the mountains of St. Bernard. Mil- ton has attempted to give us fome idea of another place ; and I could not difmifs the images from my recollection, when I turned my eyes upon this miferable fcene, " A difmal fituation, wafle and wild ; " Regions of forrow, doleful (hades ; where peacs " And reft can never dwell ; hope never comes, " That comes to all." Defcending partly upon our feet and partly upon our mules, we arrived in the evening at St. Pierre. The activity of our hoftefs and her co-adjutors for it appeared by the buftle that me called in the affiftance of the neighbourhood had prepared our fupper. On the following day we had, on our way to St. Blanchier, an opportunity of feeing the full difplaj of mulifh refiftance. A watch had been left by one of the party at St. Pierre. We were now a full league from the place, and the guide was directed to re- turn LETTER LI. 263 turn in fearch of it. The guide prepared to return, but his mule faid, " NO." At every effort the former made, the latter added his " VETO." He ufed every mea- fure of violence, but he might as well have attempted to flog the Trojan horfe into a gallop. Muth manoeuvring was difplayed on both fides ; at length victory declared in favor of the beaft, and the great Pierre Balmat who had fo often conquered mountains was himfelf compelled to yield to the invincible ftubbornnefs of his mule. LETTER LIT. 'TpHE appearance of St. Blanchier is pic- turefque indeed, but . partakes too much of the horrid. It ftands upon the borders of the Drance, at the confluence of three vallies, and in the very heart of mountains, which project in awful forms over its cottages, and feem to menace 84 its 264 LETTER LIT. its deftruction. It was a feftival with the inhabitants; the church bell was ringing a hollow found, and the peafants were crowding the porch, in order to confecrate the feftivities of the day by an at of devo- tion. As we pafled through this village, we were alarmed by an explofion, the effect of which among the mountains was tre- mendous. We took it for thunder, and its echoes were prolonged by the rever- beration of the rocks with which we were enclofed. A volume of fmoke ifluing from a diftant eminence convinced us, that it was but the report of gunpowder. Martigny, where we repofed ourfelves and mules, is confidered as of fome im- portance in the Vallaisj they called it a city, and fpoke of it in high terms. It has, how- ever, from the figure it makes, no great pretenfions to diftinclion. It is the head- quarters indeed of bufmefs and gaiety in this country. Our landlord introduced us into a very fpacious room, in one corner of which fat a man, whofe figure and manner rather LETTER LII. 2 5 5 rather excited our curiofity. We had taken from the table a large pair of flappers, . and were feverally offering our conjectures upon their ufe, when, obferving our embarraff- ment, the ftranger came up, claimed the flappers, and told us, they were " pour at- * e traper les papillons." The inn-keeper informed us when he had retired, that it was a German baron, whofe penchant for butterfly-hunting was extraordinary; that he expofed himfelf to a thoufand dangers and fatigues in this whimfical purfuit; " et, Mef- " fieurs, (continued he,) ce baron lamettroit " huit jours pour attraper un feul papillon." Our hoft was a lank meagre man : his figure was remarkably tall, ghaftly, and puritanical : his head was crowned with a white cap, which did not diminifh the folemnity of his appearance. He harangued us the whole of dinner upon the dif- ferent purfuits of mankind. He treated the butterfly-hunter with the moft farcaftic contempt. u A fellow, faid he, who runs u over a66 LETTER LII. * over bogs, lakes, and brambles after a * c fliadow; a phantom; a being that is not M touched without falling to pieces ; a 44 thing that has neither body nor foul." Our landlord argued, and we fed ; and his harangue finifhed only with our dinner. We then refumed our journey to Bex. I have not feen during my excurfion many goitrous or idiotic perfons. At Salenche I faw fome few of the latter ; and in dif- ferent other places I have obferved the former. You know the opinions of medi- cal men are much divided upon the probable caufes of thefe wens, and of the concomi- tant diforder of idiodfm. Thefe phenomena have by many been referred to fnowy or calcareous waters, which are here drank by the inhabitants by others to the marfhy air, &c. but M. SaufTure affirms, that in the higher parts of the mountains, where the fnows and ice for the moft part prevail; and in the vallies open to the plains, where the marfhes are principally found ; neither 5 wens LETTER LTI. 167 wens nor idiocy are common. Thefe are almoft folely to be met with in the vallies elevated a little above the plain. In order to account for this phenomenon, M. Sauflure fuppofes, that the warmth which the en- clofed air receives in this fituatiori, relaxes the fibres of infants ; and produces thefe in- flations of the neck, and that inertia^ which is the ftrong charadteriftic of the Cretin. This .he eftablifhes, by. remarking, that on the fide of the valley, where the heat from direcl: and reflected rays is greateft, thefe diforders moft abound ; infomuch that it is now cuftomary for thofe whofe cir- cumftances are not too contracted, to fend their wives to lie-in, and their infants to be nurfed upon the mountains ; and this experiment has, in no inftance, failed of pre- ferving the health and faculties of the . children. [ 268 LETTER Lllf. XT7E were now entered into the valley of the Rhone, and fhortly arrived upon that plain, confecrated to fame by the caf- cade of the Piflevache. The body of water ruflies between the divided projections of a rock, whofe furnmits are rounded off, and overfpread with a piclurefque umbrage. Its waters dafh with the force acquired by a fall of near three hundred feet againft the rocky fragments below, and remount in a cloud of foam. In comparifon of thefe ftu- pendous phenomena of nature, how little are the achievements of art ! St. Maurice, through which we now palled, is the laft town of the Vallais ; and is famous for having been the Agaunum of the ancients, where the maflacre of the Theban Legion happened. The Roman bridge LETTER LIIL 269 bridge of one arch, built acrofs the Rhone, is ftill in exiftence. Their excellencies of Berne, whofe territory here commences, have a fmall garrifon in the place; and fome frivolous queftions, of our names, country, defigns, &c., put by a few invalids, notified our entrance upon this fovereign foil. We arrived in the evening at Bex, and finally difmifled our guides. Before I take my leave of them, let me commend their activity, fidelity, and gratitude. Men more ready to ferve, and more difpofed to be fatisfied, I have never yet met with: their underftandings are in general good, their information found, and their man- ners pleafmg and ingenuous. This is an eulogium due to the guides of Chamouni. Bex is famous for the falines, or fait works, which are carried on in its neigh- bourhood. We vifited thefe the following day, having obtained permiffion from the fuperintendant. Our char-a-bancs carried us to the foot of the mountain which con- 4 tains $7$ LETTER LIIL tains thefe fait fprings, and a guide con- cluded us to the mouth of thofe caverns by which we were to enter the heart of the mountain. I muft obferve, that it is now one hundred and twenty years fmce thefe fprings were difcovered ; and the Seigneurs of Berne, who are the proprietors, have fpared among which we were now moving, prefented, under a deep coating of fnow, made a very curious appearance. In a village through which we pa fled, fome violent fhouts excited our curiofity. We found they were occafioned by an event of great importance to the inhabitants, the fhooting of a bear, which had rnade fre- quent defcents upon this wretched hamlet, and borne off cohfiderable booty ; till the lofs of an infant^ whom he was fuppofed to have ftolen, enraged the peafants, who purfued this inhuman depredator into the favage wilds in which he refided, and, at the moment of our arrival, Bruin was drag- ging in triumph through the village. The approach to Lannefbourg offered a curious fpectacle. The valley through VOL. I. X which 3 o6 LETTER LXI. which we had been journeying for forrte days, and which had gradually narrowed, now appeared to terminate j and the moun- tain over which we were to pafs feemed to oppofe, by the tracklefs fnow which inve- loped it, an infuperable barrier. We en- tered Lannefbourg before the day clofed, and were inftantly furrounded by a number of men, who demanded permiffion to pull our carriages to pieces by royal authority. I refpect governments wherever I go, and would not wantonly pour contempt upon any of his Sardinian Majefty's fubjeds ; but I think in my confcience, that an aflemblage of more ill-looking wretches never acted under government authority. A commif- fioner foon fhowed himfelf at the head of thefe raggamuffins, and throwing out a ta- riffe, in length " a full cloth-yard or more," gave us our choice of travelling accommo- dations, with the prices fettled by order of the police. Our negotiation with him was expedited by the prefling defwe of finding the LETTER LXII. 307 the comforts of a blazing fire, and a trout fiflied out of the Lake of Mount Cenis. A very convertible madamoifellej the daughter of the landlord^ attended on us at fupper, and did credit to the vivacity and nai'vete of the Savoyardes. The hotelj which is newly fet up, ilands a very fair chance of fucceeding j for, in addition to the bad reputation under which the other labours, of being the worft and moft impofing inn in Chriftendom, I have no where feen a little fyren better calcu- lated for detaining travellers, who are not violently prefled to crofs the mountain. LETTER LXIL i T was not by the aid of mules and porters, fedans and fledges, that the hero of Car- thage made his entree into Italy : and yet I much queftion whether the Carthaginian foldiers complained more emphatically of x 2 cold, 3 o8 LETTER LXII. cold, fatigue, and inconvenience, than we did. I am impatient to carry you over this mountain, or I could expatiate very largely upon the murmurs I uttered and heard in the afcent from Lannefbourg. The air was indeed impregnated with particles of intenfe cold, and made its way through all the ar- mour with which we were provided. One hour brought us upon the plain, when, to recover from the effects of thefe feverities, we were conducted to a fhed, in which a fire recovered us to fomething like good humour. From this fhed we were feverally drawn in a fledge to the fouthern extremity of the plain, by mules who trotted with confiderable fwiftnefs through the fnows. The poft is fituated a mid-diftance on this route, and was carefully announced to us by the guides and muleteers. At the Grande Croix, in the extremity of the plain, were fome objects upon which I could not but beflow a Ihare of attention. To the right was the lake fo celebrated for the LETTER. LXIf. 329 the excellence of its trout ; to the left, the hopital. This hopital was founded, like that of St. Bernard, for the relief and refrefhment of thofe pilgrims whom devotion might in- duce to feek the fhrines of Loretto, or foli- cit the benediction of Chrift's vicar. At fome diftance flood the " Chapelie de tran- fis" a ccemetery conftructed for the burial of thofe who may chance to perifti on thefe pious expeditions. Numerous huts are alfo raifed upon different parts of this moun- tain, the refidence of fhepherds during the fummer, as very excellent pafture .is found in the bofom of thofe rocks, which, inclofe the upper level, and whofeHpiQ^nteaife to a very confiderable height. In .fact, when upon this plain, which covers the fummit of the mountain, we feemed tQ be in a val- ley, enormous ridges of rock rifmg on ei- ther fide, fome of which appear to bear the fnows of ages. It was from this point, the beginning of the " defcenjte. 4& J&helles," x 3 that 310 LETTER LXII. that we entered the fledge, in order to flide down in the whimfical fafhion in ufage here, when the fides of the mountain are incruft- ed with fnow. A hundred travellers have told you what this mode is, and by what expedients and under what fears it is ef-? fefted. I lhall not, however, be deterred from telling you what I found it. You are then to. imagine me feated in a fledge. To this fledge are fattened two flicks pointed with iron, in the form of a fhaft. The guide feated in the front, by the afliftance of thefe fhafts, and his feet, which are alfo eminently ferviceable, haftens or retards the motion of the machine, conduces it along precipices with wonderful dexterity, and makes, as occafion requires, yet oftener to ihow his fkill, the mod fharp jind difficult turns. In fome parts we defcended with Vaft rapidity ; and the zig-zag courfe which thefe ingenious conductors fometimes pur- fued, in order to pafs each other on the way, was really diverting. This LETTER LXII. 3 u This was a very pleafant as well as novel defcent. The objects by which we glided compofed an aflemblage of wild and gro- tefque fcenery a torrent amongft thefe if- fuing from the brow of that plain which we had quitted, precipitated its ftream in the form of a beautiful cafcade. Ten mi- nutes brought us to the miferable village of Ferriere, the regular defcent to which is called an hour. The fledges were dif- charged here as no longer ufeful, and the remainder of the diftance to Novaleze per- formed on foot. The whole of this defcent is eftimated two hours or leagues, for time and fpace ftand for each other in thefe coun- tries; and thusreckoning the commencement of the rife from Chamberri, the height which isafcended by a track of twenty-five leagues, is defcended in two. In this calculation, the perpendicular height of the mountain maybe reckoned at more than feven thoufand Eng- Ufli feet. Our journey, though fatiguing, Abounded in objects of curiofity and iiitereft. * The 3 i2 LETTER LXIJ. The memory of the great hero who, fand years ago, fought his way through this valley, was frequently a prop to my declining patience. What were our toils, in compa- rifon of thofe fuftained by men who had to fcale the towering rock under the preffure of arms, expofed to the furly temped, with no refources but the habit of combating danger, and the hopes of future conqueft ! While I was entering my fledge at the point of defcent, I eyed the opening through which Hannibal, probably, pointed out to his exhaufted followers the fpoils that await- ed them in the delightful plains of Lom- bardy : for .all circumftances confpire to fix the paflage of the Carthaginians into Italy acrofs the Mont Cenis. The line of fepa- ration between Savoy and Piedmont is the little Doria, a ftream which rifes in the Lake of Mont Genis, and afterwards unit- ing with the great Doria, the waters of both are borne to the Po, at a little diftance from Turin. At Novaleze, our carnage difTecled at LETTER LXII. 313 at Lannefbourg was very dexteroufly and completely re-conftructed, a fubjecl: of juft congratulation, when it is confidered how much more difficult it is to reftore than to deftroy. The courfe of the little Doria conducted us to Suze, a town agree- ably fituated, and in high reputation among the' inhabitants on the northern fide of the Alps ; who furnifhed us with no article of luxury or convenience, but what they pre- tended to import from the fruitful treafures of Suze. This town has the reputation of being founded by Pompey. A triumphal arch is among the monuments of antiquity which it ftill preferves, and which is by Gruter carried up to the time of Tiberius. Our equipage pafled rapidly through this place, in order to reach the inhofpitable vil- lage of St. Ambroife j but in this the con- venience of the horfes was much more con- fulted than that of their matters, the flages of our journey being regulated by the diftri- frution of the pofls. LETTER LXIII. E road in pafling from Rivoli, the laft village on the route to Turin, gra- dually opens into a confiderable width, and announces with much magnificence the ap- proach to a great capital. Turin cannot be too handfomely fpoken of as a town. Regularity and beauty are terms appropriate to its character, I was extremely diverted by the appearance of the inhabitants. Drefs, air, countenance, and language were full of novelty. Etiquette here holds fovereign fway. I faw numbers, whofe thread-bare fuit could fcarcely maintain its place, fqueez- ing with the utmoft formality a chapean Iras a burnifhed fword vibrating by their fide. Turin wears all the marks of a vigilant police. Every quarter of the town is tran-r quil LETTER LXIII. 315 quil in the night. I went the morning af- ter my arrival to view the palace. His Sar- dinian majefty was there, and we could not be admitted till he (hould fet off for his maifon de ChaJJe. The firing of guns, and the beating of drums, fhortly announced his majefty's intention of quitting the palace. All who were on the fpot drew themfelves up in order and formed an alley, through which his majefty and his fuite pafled. This obtained me a fight of the monarch ; but the fqueeze was fo great, that I had little leifure to take cognizance of the royal fea- tures. I am not in general very curious in exa- mining the interior of palaces, except fo far as they are reputed to enclofe the works and monuments of art. I was however unex- pectedly gratified in this inftance, by the uncommon fplendor and rich decorations of the apartments. The number of them was prodigious, and they formed a laby- yinth almoft as intricate as that of Crete. I fliall 316 LETTER LXIII. {hall only mention a few of thofe rarities which ftruck me raoft forcibly : Victor Amadeus, an equeftrian ftatue. This monarch him- ielf, in bronze, is mounted upon a horfe of marble, trampling upon the bodies of flaves in chains, with all the wild barbarity of a conqueror and a tyrant. One (lands afto- nifhed at the corruption of that mind, which can find a feaft in fuch bafe and unfeeling adulation. " Parcere fubjectis," was the favourite maxim of Henry IV. of France ; and the arts are miferably degraded, when they are employed to celebrate the abettor, rather than the vanquifher of tyranny, and to immortalize him who impofes, rather than him who breaks the chains of fervi- tude. The four feafons, by Albani, were curious objects of fpeculation. There ap- peared to enter much ingenious compofition into thefe works of the pencil, and you will readily perceive, that a fine imagination can alone embody thofe phantoms of the mind. I know not whether Albani has executed i thefe LETTER LXIII. 3I7 thefe pieces as well as he ought ; but I can- not conceive how he could have executed them better. The portrait of Charles I. of England, and his children, is a finemorceau, from the animated pencil of Vandyke. But my attention was very highly engaged by a fmall groupe which paries for the chef d^euvre of Gerard Dow. The fubject is a dropfical woman feated in a chair. The phyfician is examining the water. The maid fervant is at the fame time adminifter- ing a fpoonful of phyfic to the patient ; and calling her eye upon the afflicted daughter at her mother's knee. Every circumftance, the moft minute, is exprefled with an accu- racy, and a fmifh, which furpaffes concep- tion. This piece is faid to have coft the late king twenty thoufand livres. LETTER LXIV. , like age, is garrulous j and merely to fee, without relating, is but to have half feen. I have made my debut as an Italian connoifTeur, and am now about to appear in my new character of an antiquary. My knowledge is about equal in the one and the other fcience ; but a man cannot travel fouth of the Alps, without either being, or becoming fo much of both, as to take off that ilupid ftare with which a perfect novice regards the works of art. From the palace of his Sardinian majefty we went to the univerfity, fituated in that very handfome ftreet, the Strada di Po. The univerfity is announced by a portico, bearing the infcription, " Regium Athe- " nseum," and confifts of an extenfive range of buildings, comprehending various ob- LETTER LXIV. 319 jects ; among which the " Mufeo del Re," or " the King's Mufseum," was pointed out to us as an object of importance to tra- vellers. This Mufseum forms indeed a very extenfive and valuable collection of antiques in every kind, ftatues, bulls, and ancient fragments. Among a great variety of ele- gant works in bronze, were a delicious little figure of Venus in the whimfical attitude of cutting her toe-nails : this is executed with the moft perfect accuracy and beauty. The famous Tripod, which contracts or increafes its dimenfions at pleafure. A foot of a horfe of the natural iize, of the moft exqui- fite execution : this, together with the leg of a man, fuppofed to be its rider, were purchafed by accident of a founder who had employed the other parts to make bells, and was about to convert thefe precious relics to the fame ufe. There are alfo fomc thunders of Jupiter, which yet retain ftrong veftiges of the brilliant gold with which they once glittered : to thefe muft be added, 5 vafe* 320 LETTER LXIV. vafes of filver, and fepulchral lamps, in all the forms which ingenuity could fupply. The collection of Egyptian antiquities is alfo extremely curious and valuable : nume- rous penates, talifmans, ckc. are here depo- fited. The objects which were held up as of the greateft eftimation, were, " a head of " Ifis, and the Ifiac table." The firft is of bronze admirably executed, and covered with hieroglyphics. The fecond, or Ifiac table, is confidered as one of the moft pre- cious monuments of ancient times, which Italy preferves. It is of red copper, nearly four feet long, and fomething more than two in width. Ifis, who is reprefented fitting, forms the principal figure in this table, which thence derives its name. She is fup- plied with two bulls horns as fymbols of fecundity. It appears to have been, in its original ftate, adorned with filver plates, as fome of thefe ornaments ftill remain ; and it is like the head of Ifis before named, and, indeed, any relic of Egyptian origin, co* vered LETTER LXIV. 3 zi vered with hieroglyphics. This myfterlous table has furnimed a wide field of difcuffion, and enquiry for the learned, to whom hie- roglyphics yet continue an inexplicable lan- guage. Themoft rational opinion yet offered, refpe&ing the defign of this table, is, that the Egyptians, who came to fettle in Italy, formed it, in order that the epocha of their worfhip, their ceremonies, habits of their priefts, &c. might not pafs' into oblivion. This folves, however, no part of thofe myf- terious fymbols which croud the table ; for, after all the efforts of antiquarian refearch, or happy conjecture, the Egyptian conti- nues, in refpedt to his hieroglyphics, yet mafter of the field. The collection of medals appeared to be numerous and well arranged ; the greater part of thefe, and of the valuable antiques in general, with which this mufseum abounds, were taken from the ruins of " Induftria," a well-known colony of the Romans, whofe fcite and veftiges were not VOL. i. y difco- 322 LETTER LXV. difcovered till the year 1745* The atten- dant at this mufasum was an Abbe, intel- ligent and polite, who declined any gra- .tuity offered, as contrary to ufage. The flranger is, however, permitted to indulge his liberality to the fervants at the door, the objects of whofe bows and forward civilities cannot eafily be. miftaken. I thought to have drawn the curtain upon Turin in this letter, but the mufeum has carried me beyond the bounds I had pre- fcribed, and I have too much refpect for the Italian opera to mention it in a poftfcript. LETTER LXV. E Italian opera is the touchftone of fafhion ; and no man, who has any regard for his reputation, would venture to diflike what good breeding obliges him to approve. The ferious Italian opera is, in the LETTER LXV. 323 the judgment of profeffional men, better prefented on theEnglifti than upon the Ita- lian ftage. This arifes from the liberal en- couragement given to all the fingers of repu- tation, and from the very expenfive deco- rations which thefe exhibitions receive in a country whofe refources and prodigality feem to keep equal pace with each other. The Buffo, or Comic Opera, is that which a ftranger will vifit to moft advan- tage in Italy, this being the fpecies of com- pofition in which modern fmgularities are held up to ridicule; while the ferious opera reforts to fome tale of ancient hiftory, choofmg, for the moft part, that into which the greateft number of fplendid characters can enter. I went, the evening after my arrival at Turin, to the Theatre di Carig- nano, and was agreeably entertained with a comic reprefentation of La Serva Inamorata. My knowledge of Italian is as yet but very flenden neverthelefs, without underftand- ing any confiderable portion of the dialogue, Y 2 I found 3 24 LETTER LXV. I found an excellent fcholium in the gefture, play of the mufcles, and mufical expreffion, with which the whole was accompanied. To judge from the only two fpecimens I have as yet had, the Italians have a very extraordinary talent at mufical inflection upon fubjetts of humour ; and can render, with the greatefl effect, by artificial modu- lation, the eafy familiarities of colloquial tvit. On a foreign ftage the fame freedom is not felt, becaufe it is with reafon fup- pofed, that what will be ill underftood where humour is concerned, cannot be highly relimed ; and every attempt to me- thodize or accommodate, muft in fuch cafes deftroy thofe features of nature which he who fludies mankind would wifh princi- pally to find. Italian dancing has been frequently com- mented upon with great feverity : and in- deed, the meafure of cenfure has never yet reached the demerit of the performance* Such outrageous (Irides, jumps, and fo- merfets, LETTER LXVI. 325 merfets, I never before had witneflfed, as were exhibited in the ballets annexed to the operas. The dance formed a direct contraft to the fong, and produced in me as lively emotions of difguft, as it did in the audience of applaufe. A dance of favages round a cannibal banquet could not have been more wild and extravagant. I could not but feel aftonifhed, that a people, who excel fo decidedly in the arts of mufical ex- preflion, fhould judge {p corruptly on a fubjecl: which appears to turn upon prin- ciples fo nearly analogous. LETTER LXVI, T HAVE fpoken with fufficient emphafis of * the general beauty of Turin, arid I ought to add, that the details will not fuffer by examination. They reckon no churches in this capital, of which many are of great architectural beauty. y 3 The 326 LETTER LXVI. The place or fqtiare which precedes the palace prefents a magnificent appearance. Eight ftreets there concentre ; and conti- nued arcades, or piazzas, favour the expofi- tion of every kind of merchandize. The place San Carlo divides, at nearly its centre, the Strada Nuova, and adds confiderably to the fplendour of the city. The promenades are delicious. They confift in an efplanade between the town and the citadel, and alfo in a beautiful diftribution of the ramparts. The ftreets are for the mofl part wide, clean, and regular 1 ; and many of the houfes are conftruded upon a grand fcale. The Po, near the city, appears not yet to have recovered from the commotion into which the mufe of Ovid has thrown it. Addifon tells us, on the authority of fome botanifts, that larch-trees, and not poplars, are thofe which fhed a gum, and are found on the banks of the Po. And Apollonius could not have been very accurate when he tells us, that the thunderbolt of Jupiter fo affeded LETTER LXVI. 327 affected the waters, as to render it fatal to a bird to fly acrofs the ftreara. But this was a favourite image with the poets ; and the lake of Avernus was not efteemed by Virgil fufficiently corrupt without this qua- lity. There is a pleafure of no common magnitude in contemplating thofe realities which have been wrought by claffic fancy into fuch fplendid vifions, It would afford a ftill higher pleafure, if it were pofiible to diveft them completely of the veil which covers them; for after all that Hefiod, Apol- lodorus, and ftill more rationally Ariftotle, and others, who have improved upon this fyftem,have taught us, the fable of Phaeton, and the combuftion he occafioned, is one among thofe amufmg myfteries whofe ma- chinery is enchanting, whofe moral is ob- vious, but whofe precife meaning has pe- rifhed with the records of the times. The fpirit of trade feems to be very active, at Turin, if any judgment may be formed from the lively buftle of the ftreets. Ar- y 4 tides 328 LETTER LXVI. tides of Englifh manufacture are vended in every part of the town, and a very confi- derable traffic is reported here to be carried on with Great Britain. How greatly is the ftate of empires changed fince Virgil pronounced the Britons " penitus toto di* ** vifos orbe ?" I am aware that their in- fular fituation formed a part of that fenti- ment; but the very ftriking contraft which modern Britain prefents to the more ge- neral conftruction of the expreflion, I am called upon continually to remark. Bria- reus-like, fhe now extends her hundred arms over the different diftrids of the con- tinent, and maintains, by the vigour of her commerce, and the extent of her political influence, a ccnne&ion with every nation of the globe. LETTER LXVII. Feliflano, Nov. u, 1791. A T the end of two days journey, we have got into a miferable village, and though {hivering with an aguifti cold, contracted amidft the fnow of Mount Cenis, I mail endeavour, by attention to my journal, to forget my maladies. Imperious circum- fiances, rather than choice, fhortened my ftay at Turin; and as I had forefeen that our departure might be precipitate, I had availed myfelf of every opportunity to gra- tify my curiofity upon objects of intereft and information. Being either too little or too great to quit without notice the capital of Piedmont, in attempting to crofs the bridge over the Po, we were fuddenly com- manded to halt, and take off a pair of horfes, it being contrary to the eftablimed rules of the place to fuffer one man to drive out c four 330 LETTER LXVII. four horfes. ' This was rather a trial of pride than of patience, for the remainder of the town was of no great length ; and our horfes being again put to, we proceeded in quiet pace along the banks of the Po. It was morning, and all that remained of dying vegetation was illumined by a clear and temperate funmine. Although the fea- fon of the year has greatly abridged the beauties of the fcenery, objects were not wanting to infpire the landfcape with inte- reft. A charming diftribution of country villas covered a wide and variegated tract. The Alps, at diftance, prefented their fnovvy fummits in a vaft and ftupendous chain, while befide us rolled in peaceful motion the turbid waters of that ftream, confecrated to claffic fame. Imagination was not idle in thefe moments fo favourable to fancy. All the fictions which had crowded my childifla memory embodied themfelves be- fore me ; and I feemed to be moving over enchanted ground, till I arrived at Villa Nuova. LETTER LXVII. 331 Nuova. I muft tell you, that I never yet entered any town at fo late an hour. For upon afking the padrone of the inn the time of the day, he aflured me it was leaft 3 and 20 o'clock. On remarking to our hoft that this was a fmall village, he replied, with fome degree of difpleafure, padrone I This word padrone is a term of moft comprehenfive fignifica- tion ; infomuch that I, who am but an /- ceptor in the language, feel fome difficulty in determining the intention of the party by whom it happens to be ufed. In the falutation of friends, I have obferved pa- drone enquired on the one part, and the fingle term padrone returned on the other; and, in this cafe, it implies the " How do " you do ?" and the " Pretty well, thank " you," of the Engliftiman. But the fenfe in which my hoft employed it was, as I have fince underftood, a very common and a very civil one j namely, " I beg your par- " don.'* In order to imprefs me more ilrongly 33 i LETTER LXVII. ftrongly with the importance of the place, he added, that it contained a convent. I was not quite fatisfied with this proof; but fearing that my Italian might not bear me out in the difpute, and dreading the confe- quences of an attack upon the church, I fuf- fered myfelf to be beaten out of the field. It was in our plan of this day's journey to reach Ale{randria,biit the inevitable fiownefs of our pace, from the extreme badnefs of the road, and the counfel of an old man, who was queftioned upon the remaining diftance, determined us to ftop at FelifTano for the night. Two beds of ftraw, with fcanty coverlids, juft leave fpace for a ricketty table, upon which my pen is now moving ; and the chilling winds, which enter by the pa- pered cafement, are playing moft wantonly about my fhoulders. If ever you fhould be tempted to crofs the Mont Cenis, at a period when the fnows are almoft knee-deep, and one or both of your boots may happen to admit water, LETTER LXVIII. 333 water, let me caution you not to exchange your carriage for your feet. A raging fe- ver of laft night, and a thoufand aches and ftiiverings all this day, enable me to afliire you that the pains attending on fuch indi- cretion, are as fevere as thofe which punifti fome of the moft important follies of human eccentricity. LETTER LXVIII. Cafle! San Giovanni, Nov. 13, 179 1, R hoft at FeliiTano made up in atten- tion, for the deficiences of his mifer- able accommodations. Aleflandria, through which we pafled in our road to Tortona, detained us no longer than was neceflary to procure a dinner, for which we paid at a rate which left no room for regret on the part of the landlord. The country from Aleflandria is for the moft part flat, and ia a ftate 334. LETTER LXVIIL a ftate of high cultivation to Tortona, where we arrived in the evening. I am not in the habits of retailing the ar- ticles of provifions which I find on the way, but our yefterday's fare may ferve as a fpe- cimen of what I am given to underftand is confidered as an excellent Italian fupper. A dim of macaroni was our firft fervire. This was followed by a faucer containing fome fcraped parmefan. A plate was then introduced with fome morfels of pigs liver, and a fecond adorned with omelettes and garlick. Three fmall birds, and a hand- fome defert, clofed this petit fouper^ which, however deficient in weight and eflentials, may, in the language of the Latins, be at leaft allowed to have been " numeris abfo- " luta fuis." Horace has told us of fome meals in his time, in which variety appears to have been not lefs confulted. Nafidienus's fupper made certainly a better figure ; and was on that account more deferving of recital : but I thjnk LETTER LXVIII. 335 tliink that, taken upon a fmall fcale, the gufto of antient times is not badly preferved in the modern arts of Italian catering. As I have brought Horace upon the ftage, in vindication of my bill of fare, I fhall make him do me another fervice before I difmifs him. His vifits to Msecenas were frequent, and their repafts convivial. Some animat- ing topic had engaged him at one of thefe " no&es coenseque Deuin ;" and inattentive to the objects of fenfe, which were doubt- lefs fet before him in profufion, he impru- dently fwallowed >fome garlick. How he felt upon that occafion, his mufe has ara- phatically told us. My feelings are fo per- fectly in unifon with his, upon all that re- lates to this naufeous vegetable, that though I am not prepared to confider it as a fuffi- cient punifhment for the crime of parricide, yet I can never fee it cordially digefted without exclaiming, O dura mefforum Ilia ! 6 E 336 ] LETTER LXIX. Piacenza, Nov. 14, 1781. A VERY diverting Signora, who attended upon us at Tortona, gave us the firft fpecimen of the, Italian face, fuch, at leaft, as I have been taught to expert it. It is not beauty, or rather it is not lovelinefs ; but it poflefles great fymmetry, and there is much in it to excite admiration. I re- marked to the Signora that the town muft be dull, as I underftood from her that it could boaft no theatre. She replied, that at prefent there was indeed but one battalion of foldiers at Tortona, but that their ufual compliment was three. One was gone off towards France, and another into Savoy. I found by this, that a red coat was not without its charms beyond the Alps ; and that the Signoras of Italy were of an opi- nion. LETTER LXIX. 337 iuon, not peculiar to this country, that " where troops were quartered, there could " be no want of amufement." Our journey from Tortona to Caflel San Giovanni, where we flopped laft night, brought the Apennines before us : but the country is in general fo flat, as to furnifh little variety. I would not fay, of any part of Italy, that it is uninterefting. It was the theatre of all that is great in hiftory for many ages ; and not a fpot of it exifts that has not been the feat of fome celebrated event. The claflic enthufiafm of Mr. Ad- difon was able to difcover fome veftiges of its antient grandeur, even in the rudeft parts of this country. " There is," fays he, " fcarce any part of the nation that is not " famous in hiftory, nor fo much as a " mountain or river that has not been the " fcene of fome extraordinary action." I could however learn nothing of Caftel San Giovanni from any of its inhabitants. The place feemed funk in wretchednefs and po- VOL. i. z vertyj 338 LETTER LXIX. verty ; yet an old wall, mouldering into ruins, appeared to commemorate fome loft importance. The ftrolling ecclefiaftics, of whom I enquired refpecting thofe ruins, could give me no information, though they appeared to have fufficient leifure for anti- quarian ftudies. No lefs than eight churches and three convents were enumerated in con- fequence of my enquiries; and notwith- ftanding the deplorable wretchednefs which covered the inhabitants, it was eafy to fee that the honour in their eftimation out- weighed the burden. Indeed, I could not but be ftrongly im- prefled with this infatuation, upon pafling a few minutes in their cathedral. It was curious to obferve the contrail that appeared between the worfhippers and their fhrines. While the one were covered with rags, the other were ifiVefted with coflly ornaments. Columns of marble fupported the altars, while the thread-bare cloke fcarcely covered thofe who knelt and crawled around it. On the LETTER LXIX. 339 the one, precious odours were afcending in votive clouds ; from the other, proceeded only the vile fcent of garlick. Yet the countenance of the worfhipper fpoke a fentiment above content. He eyed, with fomething more than complacency, the range of coftly ftatues which enkindled his devotion, and feemed to forget the depth of his mifery in the fervor of his prayers. How ftrong is the grafp of fuperftition, when it has once fattened upon its victim ! The comforts of life really feemed to thefe deluded people, a very mean price for the religious trumpery they received in ex- change, and the privilege of worshipping at a golden altar : content to exift upon macaroni, and to ftretch their bodies upon beds of ftraw, provided their faints and demi-gods may feed upon frankincenfe, and inhabit fhrines of alabafter ! Z 2 [ 54* I LETTER LXX, Parma, Nov. 15, 1791. T KNOW not how a town can be viewed to lefs advantage than during a fall of un- decided rain. By undecided rain, I mean that diftillation which fcatters a dufky mid over all the works of art. Such was the itate of the atmofphere upon my arrival and during my ftay at Piacenza ; and per- haps it is to this that I owe the impreffion of dullnefs which I have brought away with me from that town. It is not, however, without its ornaments. The Piazza Publico (which is a fquare) partakes of the grand; it is difficult, how* ever, to be fatisfied with more than one of its fides. Two noble equeftrian ftatues commemorate in bronze, at two angles of this fquare, the virtues of Aleflandro I. and his LETTER LXX. 34I his fon. I ought to have admired, as books inftruct me, the painted cupola of the ca- thedral ; but, alas ! the height of the cupola, and the gloom of the cathedral, had ravifhed thofe beauties from my fight. I was ob- liged to content rnyfelf with gazing upon an object which had the advantage of a better light I mean the dial ; as this was the firft I had obferved defcribed after the Italian method of keeping time, and pre- fenting on one circumference the twenty*, four hours of the day. I was very much pleafed with a fmall painting of the Virgin and Child in a glafs frame, and hung over one of the altars in the church of St. Francifco il Grande ; it had fo much in it of fweetn-efs and nature, that I cannot but hazard a word in its praife, though I have not yet found it in that lift which travellers are inftrudted to admire. A very elegant altar in the fame church attracted my par- ticular curiofity ; it was defigned with art, and fmifhed with beauty. The richeft z 3 marble, 342 LETTER LXX, marble, and the pureft alabafter, were here expended with equal fymmetry and profu- fion. I was anxious to know what Saint or Martyr claimed this altar. If it were my lot to be canonized, I know not a fhrine I fhould more earneftly covet. A little invocation, and fome few infcriptions, foon led me to its lawful claimant, who ' was no lefs a perfonage than St. Anthony, the great apoftle to the fifties. All the good things in the province of Milan feem confecrated to this powerful Saint, whofe head- quarters are at Padua. He was fpoken of in very high terms upon the tablets which beftrewed this altar, and re- prefented as very dear to Jefus Chrift, and a great favourite of the Holy Virgin. The church of San Agoftino is a rifing ornament to the town of Piacenza, and promifes to end in a building of great tafte and beauty. The fide aides are fitted up in a very elegant ftile, and the new front which it is now receiving, r prefents the out- line LETTER LXXI. 343 line of a noble fagade. The Auguftines, to whom this church belongs, are in pof- feflion of vaft property. It is at their ex- pence that this church is now receiving its finiih. " The fayade^'.faid an old mendi- cant, " has already cofl 14,000 fechins." " What then," faid I, " thefe gentlemen " are rich?" " Rich!" faid he, " richif- u fimi-fono i noftri principi." As the diftance from Piacenza to Parma was not confiderable, we pafled from thence in the afternoon, and entered Parma in the dufk of the evening. The country in the whole of this route was delectable ; not a rood of ground was to be feen, but what poflefled the higheft degree of cultivation. LETTER LXXI. Parma, Nov. \6, 1791. TV/TV fpeculations of to-day upon the cu riofities of this place have been fo extenfive, that though I burn with impa- Z 4 tience 344 LETTER LXXI. tience to communicate, I fcarcely know whether the late hour at which I attempt this fketch will allow me to complete my report. It was a grand day at the cathe- dral, fo that I had the pleafure of hearing high mafs performed. The church of San Giovanni Evangelifta, which I next entered, was very highly ornamented, and the pencil of Correggio has pourtrayed upon its cu- pola fome animated figures; that of St. John is eminently beautiful. The academy afforded me a large field of amufement. A variety of mifcellaneous paintings and defigns is here preferved, and fome curious fragments of antiquity ; amongft which was a very noble head of Jupiter. But the principal ornament of this academy, and one of the greateft orna- ments of Europe I might add, is the chef d^aeuvre of Correggio preferved here with great care, and ftill in high prefervation. The groupe is formed by the Virgin, who has the Infant in her lap. Mary Magda- len LETTER LXXI. 34S len is to the left of her, having her head reclined. St. Jerome, an angel, and the Infant Baptift, enter into the compofition, and a more exquifite production never iflued from the fchool of painting. I did not think it poffible for imagination to pourtray a countenance of fuch delicacy, grace, and fweetnefs. She feemed to be occupied in affection, veneration, and rap- ture. Thefe paffions were blended like the mellow colours of the immortal painter into the happieft unity. The bold figure of St. Jerome, the attitude, the folidity and fainted gravity of his countenance, com- pofed a ftriking counter-part to thefe fofter paffions. The infant was vivacious and benign. The Magdalen penfive and de- jeded ; melancholy veiled the full luftre of her countenance, and preferved the pro- prieties of her character. The angel was what an angel mould I had almoft faid, all that an angel can be. Such is this won- derful painting. If I might make fo free 9 with 34 6 LETTER LXXL with the terms of art, I would fay, that it has all that foftnefs, finifh, keeping, and vigour can contribute to animate the works of the pencil. Days and years might be fpent in admiring it; and genius might exhauft the power of language in its praife. A copy is now taking of this inimitable groupe, which promifes to catch fome por- tion of its fpirit. But, alas! fuch are the imperious limits of this art, that no tran- fcript can be made of its excellencies ; and the pencil of the artift can alone perpetuate his own fame. The theatre which joins the academy is Sufficiently known as a building of wood, particularly conftructed for the conveyance of found without echo or confufion ; and reports of travellers are perfectly correct as to this fact : for upon experiment made in a whifper at one end, the words were diftindly heard at the other. The form of the theatre is light and elegant. It is now, however, falling into decay, and the fole LETTER LXXI. 347 ufe to which it is at prefent applied, is the occafional exhibition of Naumachiss, for which the arena is very conveniently adapted. I could defcant upon a fecond production of Correggio's, to which I was introduced after quitting the academy, but I am fearful that my epithets would fcarcely hold out through another defcription ; and, indeed, to fpeak the truth, it fucceeded the other too rapidly to find a particle of admi- ration difengaged. I have been relaxing this evening at the theatre, being previoufly acquainted that a tragedy of Shakefpeare's would be per- formed, and wifhing to know in what manner our immortal bard would be han- dled by thefe cognofcenti. The tragedy was nothing lefs than Amletto (Hamlet) ; and, alas ! my poor countryman has feldom fallen into worfe hands, fince Voltaire at* tempted to tranflate him. The jokes and the idle play of words which were the fide- arms of this poet, were all that this caterer for 348 LETTER LXXL for the Italian ftage had relifhed or im- derftood. Thefe were lavifhed, and not without effect, upon the audience, who feemed to have taken the whole for a bur- lefque, and expreffed their approbation of thefe flights of humour with tremendous peals of applaufe. It was only in fome moment when Hamlet himfelf occupied the ftage, that any thing like gravity appeared in the houfe. Then, indeed, a call of fi^ lence was raifed and echoed from different parts, and attention was erect till Hamlet, who was drafted in black, and brandifhed a white handerchief in his hand, had done ranting. So much for Italian tragedy. It is painful to fee fuch inattention to the convenience of travelling in countries of fuch wealth and fertility. A fmall deduc- tion from the palace would clear the pea~ fant's path. Almoft all the rivers in thefe opulent duchies, are deftitute of bridges, and fome are not pafled in ferry-boats without danger. t 349 J LETTER LXXIL Bologna, Nor. 18, 1791. T TPON commencing our route to Modena, we entered upon the old ^milian way. I amufed myfelf, during this part of our journey, with reading a letter of Pliny to Trajan, in which he mentions the Cura Viae jEmilise as an object of great advan- tage, and thanks the Emperor for having given the appointment to a friend of his. It was fome addition to this train of plea- furable images to be informed, that on pafT- ing through Reggio, I was viewing a place which, befides its antient fame, was revered as the birth-place of Ariofto. Modena is a delicious town, and has every advantage of buildings and fituation. Taflbni, in his poem of the Secchia Rapita y has given a very 3so LETTER very animated and juft defcription of this his native place : " Modana Siede in una gran pianura," &c. The cathedral is rather fmgular than handfome, and fufficiently fombre for all the purpofes of occult devotion. One of thofe who ftand in the place of Levites, and ferve about the altar, offered to conduct me to fome obje&s of curiofity. They confifted of a number of antient maufoleums, whofe infcriptions were not difficult to decipher. My guide was however fo intolerably ftupid, that I got no information from him as to their hiftory. They were all found in the town, he affured mej and when I afked him how long it was fmce their difcovery, he talked to me of more centuries than I fhould chufe to repeat. All that I could draw from him was, that they were " tro- " vati nel piazzo," (found in the fquare,) " tranfportati qui,' J (conveyed here,) c< & '/ tutti di marmore," (all of marble.) This 7 laft LETTER LXXII. 351 laft he repeated with great energy. He next introduced me, having previoufly lighted two candles, into a chapel, which he called the Chapel of San Geminiano. This faint, of whofe hiftory I cannot in- form you, is in great eftimation amoBg the Modanefe, as Petronius is at Bologna. Taf- foni, in his poem before quoted, calls the former Gemignani^ as he does the latter Pe- tronj, from thefe refpe&ive faints : " Che tolfero a' i Petronj, i Gemignani. CANTO I. This chapel was fufficiently curious. There were two very well executed portraits in it. I wifhed to know the artift, but the only- anfwer I could get was " San Geminiano," and *' tutto di marmore !" My guide now led me to the back part of that monument, on which the portraits were hung, and pointing to a fmall door, refembling the entrance into a vault, he rehearfed a hiflory refpdcling it, which I was far from thoroughly com- prehending. He fpoke of creeping and crawling 351 LETTER crawling upon his knees, and accompanied his words with geftures, which made me conclude that this was the opening into fome fubterraneotis pafTage. He afked me, if I would enter it ? I made no objection ; on which he unlocked the door, and point- ed to the infide. I was furprifed on look- ing, to find that it was but a fmall area un- der the monument or vault, the roof of which was fupported by fix or feven marble pillars, at fuch intervals as to leave room for a perfon to crawl on his knees. Upon feeing me hold back, he explained the whole of the myftery, by telling me " Chi vuoP " obtenere una grazia di Dio bifogna fer- " pere qui.'* (He who would obtain a bleff- ing from God, muft creep through here.) And Hooping down, I obferved that this operation had actually worn a channel upon- the marble. I afked him how long it had been the fafhion to creep among thefe pil- lars ? He told me, five hundred years. Whether his chronology was accurate or not, LETTER tXXit. 353 not, I had no opportunity to afcertain. The man feemed not a little aftonifhed at my retiring without making this religious tour. Unfortunately he detained me fo long in his recital of miracles performed at this tomb, and in the exhibition of a moft marvellous and wonder-working crucifix, that I loft the opportunity of feeing the Seccbia, which is preferved among the ar- chives of this cathedral. It pafles for a fpecies of miracle, that the mere theft of a bucket fhould become the foundation of a war ; and it does at firfl fight prefent a fubjedt of furprife, that the blood of nations mould be fpilt for '* un " infelice e vil fecchia di legno." It is however to be feared, that in reviewing the wars of Europe, too many cafes will be found, in which fo valid a pretext, cannot be afligned for the efFufion of human blood. VOL. i. A A [ 354 ] LETTER LXXIII. Florence, Nov. zi. T>OLOGNA is a town, the remembrance of whofe beauties will not readily be ef- faced from my mind ; and yet I have feen fo fmall a portion of them, and been com- pelled to take fo rapid and curfory a glance, that I almoft blufh to attempt any thing like an enumeration of its curiofities. The churches are ufually in all places the firft object of attention : and I had heard fo much of the celebrity of St. Luke at Bo- logna, that I immediately, requefted to be conducted thither. The path to this church is, a continual afcent; but pilgrims of all ages, and labouring under whatever infir- mities, feemed to tread it without reluc- tance or fatigue. The church bears the name of the Madonna di San Luca, from the LETTER LXXIII. 355 the famous portrait of the Virgin, painted by the hand of the Evangelift, and which it is the boaft and glory of the Bolognefe to poflefs. A portico of three miles conducts the pilgrim to this object of adoration. This portico has confiderable beauty,, and ftili more convenience, as it affords at once the means of fhelter and of reft. It was raifed by voluntary contribution ; fix hundred and forty-eight arcades compofe the whole range ; all of xvhich were built at different periods by the zealous devotion of private perfons, or different corporations, and they were conftructed in reference to each other, fo as now to compofe an uniform piazza to the entrance of the church, adorned with frefcoes, fome of which have no fmall merit. The church is an elegant building, and bears on its walls fome tablets, commemora- tive of miracles performed by this marvel- lous picture. This ineftimable treafure is provokingly covered with a cafe, ornamented A A 2 with 356 LETTER LXXIII. "with jewels, and different offerings of devo* tion ; fo that I could only judge of St. Luke's pencil by its miraculous effects. A firing of beads, which I purchased to ef- cape the fufpicion of herefy, entitled me to a little tracl:, written by the Abbe' Calindri, from which I learned the very high value fet upon this precious depofit, the folemnity with which it is venerated at Bologna, and the innumerable benefits which have been derived by this city from its refidence among them. The Abbe, fpeaking of the annual ceremony of carrying this image in proceflion, fays, " Molte altre volte e ftato, " &c. /. e. This ceremony has alfo been " performed in cafes of public emergency, 41 as was the cafe in 1779, on account of " repeated earthquakes. The confequence ** was, that though thefe mocks were fo *' violent, and fo frequent as to agitate the ** country for three years, the city of Bo- * c logna fuftained no fenfible mifchiefs from " this fcourge, which, during its continu- " ance, LETTER LXXIH. 357 " ance, committed fuch ravages in the cir- " cumjacent cities." The Abbe, full of the authenticity and influence of this magical piclure, has an- nexed to his abridged account of this hi- tory, the means by which it pafled into the hands of thofe who founded the prefent church. As fuch a curiofity may not often come before you, I will endeavour, for your amufement, to put this portion of monkifh Latin into a decent Englifh drefs*. " In * Anno Domini millejimo centifimo fexagefimo, Die oc- tava intrante Madis. Atftum in Monte de Guardia Cub feeremaiico Domne Azoline & Beatrixie, prefentibus Domro Rambertino de Guezis, Domnus Marcheximus Ottonellus, Judex ; Domnus Angelettus de Urfis, et alii plures teftes, Domnus G. Epifcopas Bonon dedi: et affignavit fupradidlis Azoline et Beatrixie unam capfolam de ligno, cum tabula, ubi pifta eft imago Beate Marie manu beati Luche Evange- liite, quam portavit de Conftantinopoli, in civitate Bononie Theoclys Kennya hermitanationisGrecus ibi prefers ad con- fervandam, tenendam, et cullodiendam in heremitatico de monte de Guarda pro fe et earum fjcce/Toribus, in dido hercmitico ad honorem Dei et didte imaginis. Prenominati Dominus EpiTcopus et Theoclys heremita hocinftrumentum aflignaiionis ut luper legitur fcribere rogaverun:. Ego Vi- talis Bibiicie Dei gratia didVi Domni Epifcopi notarius in- terfui ; et hanc cartam inftrumenti conHgnationis rogatus {cripfi et figillavicom figillo didi Domni Epifcopi indi&iooe A A 3 " the 358 L E T T E R LXXIiL " the year of our Lord 1160, and the 8th " day of May, in the Monte di Guardia, at " the hermitage of the ladies Azolina and " Beatrice, and in the prefence of Signior " Rambertino de Guezi, Signior Marche- " fmo Ottonello, Judge, Signior Angioletto " del Orife, and many other witnefies, i Gerard, Bifhop of Bologna, gave and " afligned to the aforefaid Azolina and " Beatrice, and their fucceflbrs, a box, con- " taining a tablet, upon which is an image " of the bleffed Virgin, painted by the hand " of Sr. Luke the Evangelift, and brought *? by Theocles, a Greek hermit, then and " there prefent, from Conftantinople, to " have, to hold, and to keep in the hermit- " age of Monte Delia Guardia, to the ho- " nour of God, and of the laid image. " The afore-named bifhop of Theocles, " the hermit, have called upon me to make naged the fculptor's hand. Such circunv* ftances muft combine to give perfection, and perfection is the only attribute which can characterize this ftatue. The Arrotino of Whetter, who ftands to the left of the Venus, is a fubject both of admiration and perplex-*- ity. Pofition of body, call of countenance, and circumftance of occupation, denote fome myftery which they do not develop. He is felling on one knee, and whetting a knife or cutting inftrument. His head is elevated inclining to the left, as though he were liftening to fomething faid. It is curious to obferve what ingenious conjectures have been indulged upon the hiftory of this Arro- tino : he is liftening to Cataline's confpiracy, he overhears the plot of Brutus's fons to re- ftore the Tarquins : it is Cincinnatus ; it is Manlius Capitolinus ; and laftly, as though there were not already fufficient hypcthefes to obfcure the fact, the Abbe Palli has found out that it is the Scythian who afiifted 9 at LETTER LXXVIT. 373 at the duet between Apollo and Marfyas, and who afterwards flayed the latter. Now, that he is liftening, cannot be difputed : and that he may be liftening to the Catali- narian or the Tarquinian faction, are con- jectures equally probable. And whether or not he reprefents the Scythian who was to flay Marfyas, it muft be owned his heart feems ripe for a murderous deed. The hi- tory of this character is, in fhort, among thofe records which have flipped through the fingers of time, and whofe place can only be fuppiied by fancy and conjecture. LETTER LXXVII. Florence. A s I have ventured fo far into the field of *^ defcription, it would be treafon to the remaining ftatues not to allow them fome fliare of encomium. The Wreftlers, fo oft BB 3 and 374 . LETTER LXXVII. and fo defervedly admired, is a moft beauti- ful and energetic production of the chifel ; the mind of the artift muft have been filled with the jufteft conceptions of human pro- portions and anatomical accuracy. My ig- norance of antient fculpture had led me to form falfe and vulgar expectations of this groupe. The figures are of a moderate fize and a perfect form ; and exhibit an happy union of beauty and ftrength, of grace and vigour, of mufcular force and perfonal come- linefs. The inter-twining of the limbs is moft artfully rendered, and evinces at once, the power of the fuperior, and the difadvant- age of the fallen combatant: while the coun- tenances refpectively exprefs, by emotions of confidence and agony, the triumph of the victor and the defpair of the vanquifhed. The dancing faun is certainly the moft face- tious and mirthful character ever brought out of marble. This grotefque figure- is prefented with one leg elevated, in the atti- tude of dancing. His head is inclined with much LETTER LXXVIL 37S much natural expreflion, and in his counte- nance is painted a lively image of luxurious joy. Every lineament difcovers the abfence ' of folicitude and the annihilation of care. It is indeed a charming ftatue, full of antient thought, and in perfect unifon with the feftive imagery of the Grecian mufe. I might now conduct you, as I was conduct- ed myfelf, through a feries of cabinets feve* rally furnifhed with diftinctly arranged curio- fities. Among others were thofe that con- tained collections of precious ftones and mi- nerals wrought into a thoufand varieties of form. Here were columns, vafes, and urns of agate, rock-cryftal, lapis lazuli ; and, in fhort, a large profufion of antient and mo- dern valuables, diftributed and aflbrted with great tafte. The cabinet of portraits was not among the ieaft interefling of thefe fe- condary departments. Thefe portraits are of different painters, painted by themfelves, Madame Le Brun and Angelica KaufFmaa are not among the Ieaft attracting. The B B 4 very 376 LETTER LXXVII. very noble urn di Medicis, on which is re-. prefented, in relievo, the facrifice of Iphi- genia, forms a grand central ornament to one of thefe faloons. The Cabinet of the Hermaphrodite, and the Hall of Niobe, con- taining this defcendant of Jupiter and her fourteen children, are treafures of ineftima^ ble value. Amongft a variety of urns, fe- pulchral fragments, and different morceaus of antiquity, are the known and celebrated bufts of Alexander the Great, and Brutus, the lad of which may well deferve a place amongft the productions of the Grecian fchocl. Thefe bufts have alfo fet the learned afloat upon the ciccean of conjecture. The firft of thefe is the buft of a coloflal figure, and bears in the countenance a ftrong expreflion of agony. What circumftance this alludes to in the hiftory of Alexander is the queftion at iffue. " He fighs for new worlds," fays Mr. Ad- difon. " He is difturbed, beyond a doubt ^ fay *' others, with remorfe for the murder of *' Clitus." There is certainly an expreflion of LETTER LXXVII. 377 of pain in the countenance more deeply co- loured than the fretful emotion of pining difcontent could infpire ; and fuch as might be expected from the man, who had rafh- nefs enough to kill, and fenfibility fufficient to repent. The buft of Brutus has alfo fur- nifhed work for the critics. The buft is excellent, but unfimfoed. All the myflery is, why fhould Michael Angelo have left it in this ftate? Cardinal Bembo has afligned a reafon which will fcarcely pleafe beyond the pale of a court. Dam J5ruti effigiem fculptor de marmore illicit, Jn mentem fceleris venit, et abftinuit. But Michael Angelo has left many unfi- nimed works. All his figures upon the tombs in the chapel of St. Lorenzo, are un- couthly and imperfectly fculptured. Per- haps this great man, enamoured with the rougher ftrokes of his chifel, and pleafed with the expreflion of his outline, would rather leave the buft unfinifhed, than efface the bolder parts by an addition of the laft poliili. E 378 3 LETTER LXXVIII. Florence, *-pHis city appears conftruded, in all its parts, to fill the eye of the traveller with pleafure. The ftreets, which are paved with even flag-ftones, chifeled as occafion requires, for fafety are generally clean ; and where they open upon the Arno, are illumined by wide and varied views, ex- tending on either fide of this noble ftream. The entrance from Bologna is not impro- perly called a defcent upon the town : for at the diftance of fome leagues the whole appears extended below the brow of the Appennines ; and the traveller feems to be plunging from the lofty precipice into the bofom of thofe viftas and parterres, which interfeft and adorn the vale below. A tri- umphal LETTER LXXVIII. 379 umphal arch receives him at the foot of this defcent, and announces his entrance into the Tufcan capital. The palace Pitti, refidence of the Grand Duke, is fombrous in its af- pedt, but has an air of Gothic mcjeity. The interior is noble, and adorned with all that art, riches, and good tafte can contribute to dignify the palatial refidence. Here Pietro de Cortona has lavifhed the fineft touches of his pencil upon the ceilings ; and among the pendents is preferved the Ma- donna of Raphael, to which the connoif- fetirs aflign the higheft rank. It is but juftice to the patron of this palace to fay, that it is exhibited with the fame liberality as the gallery : and that ftrangers are con- dueled through all its chambers with an at- tention and refpeG, which in other places is confidered as involving the expectancy of an exorbitant fee. The palace Ricardi is a ftructure of noble architecture, raifed, for the mofl: parr, upon the defigns of Michael Angelo. It is impoffible not to be delight- ed with the very elegant and mafterly pieces of 3 8o LETTER LXXVI1I. of Luca Giordano which cover the fpacious roof of the grand faloon. Of the four Evan- gelifts painted by Guercino, each had its proper merits ; but the portrait of St. John was a faithful tranfcript of the Evangelift's pen. It was a countenance animated with as much fire and intelligence as can confift with fweetnefs and fenfibility. Of other palaces I can only fpeak from a view of their exterior, and the reports of others. Their inhabitants are reputed to hold an high rank in polite accomplifhments ; and, thofe who have leifure to cultivate their fociety by a longer refidence, bear teftimony to their domeftic hofpitality. Amufements of every defcription are in this city at their zenith. Their opera has indeed its feafons, and the tide of gaiety its flux and reflux ; but from what I have feen and ftill more from what I have heard no city has a fairer ground of pretenfion to detain thofe travellers, whom ennui and hypochondria have driven to feek the cure of their melan- choly from the hands of pleafure. [ 381 ] LETTER LXXIX. Florence. E cathedral of Florence is a very large and ponderous edifice, conftru&ed of black and white marble, and therefore pre- fenting a very fhadowy afpect. The ftatues of the twelve Apoftles, and the noble baffb relievos which furround the altar, hardly compenfate the gloom which over-hangs the general mafs. The brafs gates which adorn the baptiftery, an octagonal building detached from, but belonging to this cathe- dral, were by Michael Angelo deemed wor- thy of opening and (hutting the entrance to Heaven. Next in order is the church of San Lorenzo. Here, -in the chapel of the princes, are the two celebrated tombs of Michael Angelo. They are, like his buft of 382 LETTER LXXlX. of Brutus, imperfectly fculptured ; and pre*- fented to me little beyond the rude outline. Two figures of bold defign adorn each of thefe monuments the firft of which repre- fent Day and Night the fecond Crepufcu- lum and Aurora. The chapel di Medicis in this church is defervedly efteemed amongft the ornaments of Florence. It contains fix tombs conftructed upon the deiigns of Michael Angelo. The form of the chapel is octagonal ; and the monuments are, in point of defign and execution, ftriking and magnificent. Oriental granite of the moft beautiful vein, lapis lazuli, coral, and, in fhort, every fpecies of ftone and mineral is here difpofed and arranged by the hand of a mailer. And were the chapel completed in a ftyle fuited to the original plan, the world would not be able to fhew fo perfect a model of tafte and magnificence. The church of Santa Annuntiata is adorned with fome handfome altars of marble, and paintings of no mean execution. The las reliefs in 8 bronze LETTER LXXIX. 383 bronze by Jean de Bologne, compofe rather an interefting than fplendid ornament to the Chapelle de La Vierge, in which an image of high character is depofited. The flagel- lation of Chrift is, among thefe brazen ^tablets an extraordinary effort of genius, replete with vigour and fenfibility. Among the contiguous cloifters are fome admirable frefcoes. The wafteful hand of time, and expofure to the damps and dews have brought into decay a beautiful Madonna of Andrea del Sarto, whofe buft and epitaph are affixed againft the walls of this cloifter. The church of the Dominicans is of inferior reputation to the convent. This contains a grand ela- boratory for balfams, fimples, &c. and is efteemed to produce fome of the beft efTences and perfumes which ever ihed their fra- grance around the perfons of beau or belle. The church of San Spirito, prefents a bold defign of folid but fimple architecture. It is as yet fo little 'advanced, that the paintings it contains are perfectly eclipfed. It pro- mifes, 3*4 LETTER LXX1X. mifes, however, to exhibit in its finifhed ftate that fpecies of grave and decent edifice; which eorrefponds with the rational idea of a Chriftian Temple. My regifter of the churches fhall clofe with that of the Santa Croce. It had for me only two objects the firft of which was the monument of Michael Angelo a monument worthy of the fubjecl:. Three of his fcholars united to form this memorial of their illuftrious pre- ceptor equally {killed in the rival arts of painting, fculpture, and architecture. The tomb of the great Galileo was the fecond, A fimple buft and tablet of marble record his memory. Peace to his afhes ! May no facrilegious hand deftroy the pile on which his name is infcribed ! may his memory for ever flourifh ! and may it appear from the concurrent plaudits of all fucceeding ages, how perifhable are the decrees of fuperftition and error, how immortal the difcoveries of reafon and truth ! LETTER LXXX Foligno, Dec, i. TT was not without great reluctance that I left Florence, after fo fliort a ftay. An offer of introduction to fome of the principal in- habitants, rendered this abrupt departure (till lefs palatable ; but change and reverfe are the lot of man, and the chances of travel, like thofe of life, are not all in favour of the adventurer. It was by a tardy movement of more than two days, that we reached the antient and venerable town of Peruggia. The journey to Rome, by this route, is lefs frequently taken, than that of Sienna, as it is a. track extremely circuitous; but thofe who fludy the wear and tear of horfes and carriages* prefer this route, as more than compenfating for its length, by VOL. r, cc the 3 86 LETTER LXXX. the fuperiority of its roads. Among the curiofities of this place, are to be feen many of the productions of Pietro Perugino, the matter of Raphael, whofe beft and greateft works are here preferved. At the church of San Francefco, is one reprefenting the Refurrection, on which I fixed with a great degree of admiration. The outline was faithfully fketched ; and there appeared a great degree of accuracy and chaftenefs in the drawing, and diipofition of the colours. In what I had ever before feen of this mafter, there was fo great a drynefs and formality, that it was difficult to trace, without a deeper knowledge of the art than I can pretend to, any thing like the touches of an able and animated pencil. But from this and other fpecimens at Peruggia, it appears, that Ra- phael may have flood confiderably indebted to the lefTons of his preceptor. Superadding to his own genius the principles of Pietro, he has fhewn the fublime effects which re- fult from the union too feldom exifting of LETTER LXXX. 387 of ftrong talents and attentive ftudy. This church was rich in excellent paintings. From viewing fome defigns, more remarkable for their quaintnefs and antiquity, than their merit, I pafled to the contemplation of an affiirnption of the Virgin, which pafles with me for the beft Raphael I have yet feen. The Virgin is reprefented in Heaven, and Jefus Chrift placing the crown upon her head. The Apoftles below are collected about her tomb, and gazing upwards with countenances full of attention and rapture. There was in this painting a fort of expref- fion, which made its way more fuccefsfully to my admiration, than the Cecilia at Bo- logna, or the Madonna at the Palace Pitti. I had formed very erroneous conceptions of the pleafure I was to derive from the pro- ductions of Raphael expecting to know them at firft fight, and toVormip them al- moft by inftinct. Painting has however its myfteries, I find and it requires fome ftudy and knowledge of its principles, to be able c c 2 to 3-88 LETTER LXXX. to admire what is moft excellent. Like ths fifter arts of poetry and mufic, it feems to hide its excellencies from thofe who are ig- norant of its laws. A good painting feems therefore to ftand very much in the predica- ment of a good poem, and a well wrought concerto. Some fimple delineation fhall fafcinate in the^/fr^, beyond a regular and ftudied production ; while in the lqfl y an art- lefs tale and a popular air fhall pleafe more, than the ftately mufe of Milton, and the learned melodies of Pergolefi. At a palace belonging to the noble family of Delia Penna, I was gratified with the fight of fome of the beft and moft finifhed pieces, from the hand of Salvator Rofa. Numerous productions of this extraordinary mafter were fhewn me, in which all the wild and grotefque fancies which genius could create, were brought upon the canvas. To thefe were added four land- fcapes in his beft ftile, two of which pre- fent nature in lefs uncouth forms, and are 3 in LETTER LXXX. 3^9 in all refpects deferving of the higheft eulogium. I was completely occupied, during the time we pafled in this town, with the various and valuable fpecimens of art which I had opportunity to vifit. The town is Sufficiently gloomy in its afpecl the marks of antiquity, defertion, and decay, are ftrongly vifible in all its extent: and it is among the very few cities in Italy which are ftruck out of the lift of the travellers route. It is however certain, that though little vifited, it wants not its importance in the fcale of art. Its churches and its palaces have indeed little to boaft of fplendor or ornament: the intelligent traveller will, neverthelefs, be repaid, for entering apart- ments feldom inhabited, and churches little frequented, by defigns and ftudies appropri- ate to this place, and of a clafs which is iq, vain fought for in cities of greater refort. cc 3 t 39 ] LETTER LXXXI. Terni. Foligno to this place, the road was flanked on either fide, by doping lands of rich and laboured cultivation. Foligno is a town of fome traffic, and much fraud. The Britifh minifter refident at Florence, (Lord Harvey,) was by fome accident paffing on this route; Whatever be the fubject of his journey, it is certain that he went incog. to the confines of Rome, and is returning to Florence by this little-frequented route. The politicians of this place are greatly per- plexed to account for his Lordfhip's appear- ance amongft them ; under fuch circum- ftances, they regard it as full of myftery. He paid us a vifit with much politenefs, and I had an opportunity of laying before him a fpecimen of that fort of information which the LETTER LXXXI. 391 the politicians of Foligno pofTefled. For iu a newfpaper of the place, which I was not a little furprized to meet with, it was hinted with fome confidence, that an union was in agitation of the crowns' of England and France, by the marriage of the Prince of Wales with Madame Royale. This may ferve to fhew you, how much thefe people are admitted into the fecrets of ftate. I rofe early on the following morning, in order to obtain, before my departure from Foligno, a fight of the Madonna of Raphael, preferved in the convent Des Gomtefles. My guide arid myfelf had concerted the hour and the means, but alas ! when I approached the door of the chapel and demanded admit- tance, a number of Francifcans, who were aflembled at their devotions, growled refufal. From Foligno to Spoletto the track- con^ ducked us through a country whofe beauties have not difappeared in the month of De- cember. The air was foft, the fky delici- pufly ferene above us, and every where c c 4 around 39* LETTER LXXXI. aronnd were fcenes of that ornamental de- fcription, which confound, in the traveller's eye, all diftiriction of feafons. In propor- tion as we advanced, the ftate of the coun- try ftill improved ; mountains of the moft pidurefque forms prefented themfelves. Embofomed upon the heights of thefe, were caftles, monafteries, and towns, interfperfed with olive gardens, the bloom of vvhofe fruit reflected in various hues the rays of the fun. We alighted on our route, to view the little temple by the road fide, confecrated, as the lovers of antiquity affirm, to the god Clitumnus ; and as men of lefs enthufiafm, and therefore probably of more judgment, fey, to fome modern Divinity. Spoletto was the boundary of this day's journey, and the hour of our arrival was fufficiently early to vifit the Gothic Aqueduct, which here con- nects the mountain of St. Francis with Spo- letto.. It is a ftupendous building of ten arches, the loweft of which is eftimated to {land more than fix hundred feet above its founda-- LETTER LXXXI. 393 foundation. Its hiftory is carried back to the times of Theodoric, and it forms in its prefent ftate, an object of great magnificence. The mountain againft which it refts, has many wild and piclurefque beauties. A loofe and irregular fhrubbery overfpreads it from the fummit to the narrow channel be- low ; and intermixed with the mafles of ftone which hang upon its flopes, the tang- ling {hoots exhibit thofe light and negligent ornaments, which art can never fuccefsfully imitate. I was given to underftand that a portrait of the Virgin by St. Luke, was among the ineftimable rarities of Spoletto but I heretically contented myfelf with the report of its miraculous properties; and, glan- cing fimply at the pompous infcriptions which announce the pride of this place, as the " caput umbrise," and the town fo cele- brated by the flight of Hannibal compofed myfelf to an anticipation of thofe beauties yphich I was to fee in the Caicade of Terni. t 394 ] LETTER LXXXII. Citta Caftellana. E Cafcade of Terni is formed by the fall of the Velino into the Nera, (an- tiently the ' Nar " Narque albefcentibus aquis in. Tiberim properans." Si!, fiat.) The Velino is a pretty confiderable river of a navigable depth, and takes its rife in Monte Abruzzo ; feparating, in its paflage to the point of defcent, the town of Rhieti, from its fuburbs. There are many circumftances at- tending this Cafcade, which render knot only an object of aftonimment to the traveller, but of intereft to the naturalift. The river Velino once formed a marfh in the valley of Rhieti, highly prejudicial to the country, and whofe waters had the fingular property of petrifaction. This circumftance is atteft- ed by Pliny : " In lacu Velino lignum de- jectum lapideo cortice induitur." The chan- *i nel LETTER LXXXII. 395 nel through which the Velino now pafles, in its way to the point of defcent, was dug by order of Clement VIII. The calcareous particles with which the water is impreg- nated, have here concreted in their pafiage, and overlaid the whole fuperficies of this bed with a fubflance refembling the folidity of marble. Hence this level has acquired the name of Piano del Marmore, or the Marble Level ; and the Cafcade itfelf, La Caduta del Marmore, or the Marble Cafcade. The track from which it is approached from the town of Term, is fingularly pic- turefque. Cut for the greater part out of the folid rock, it purfues a winding courfe, and furnifhes, by a gradual yet conftant afcent, numerous and varied views of the fur- rounding fcenery. The rapidity of the river in that channel, which is hewn out of the rock to give paffage to its watery, is fcarcely to be imagined. It is here that the fpectator is ufually conducted firft, in order that he may fee the quantum of force with which this body 396 LETTER LXXXil. body of water haftens to its fall. It is im- poflible, to regard without dizzinefs, the ex- treme velocity of this part of the current. Stones of confiderable weight are buoyed up by the rapidity of the motion. The next point of view, is that which from a fmali terrace conveys to the eye this powerful fcream, precipitated from the extremity of its marble level with all that violence which it has already acquired by the compreilion of its waters. The ftream thus precipitated is received in a rocky bafon, fcooped out by the force of the waters, and from whofe bafe it is difcharged to a fecond receiver, amidft a vaft profufion of foam and uproar. Defcending thus with a rapidity regularly diminimed by the re-acT:ion of two fuc- ceffive rocks, the river enters the Nera, and proceeds to join the imperial Tiber. A fcene of greater and more terrific magnificence cannot be pictured by the imagination. The force and velocity of the current, in the point preparatory to its defcent, is mod tremend- ous* LETTER LXXXIII. 397 ous. It is difficult to decide fo different are the calculations upon this fubject its accurate meafurement. The Pere Carrara has fixed its total height from the Piano del Marmore to the level of the Nera, at 1871 Roman palms. The tumult of its waters, reverberated in a thoufand directions ; the frothy clouds which iffued from the valley; the arching rocks which overhung the gulph; and the luxuriant flirubs which icattered their delicate {hades ; formed together a picture of romantic fublimity, too impreflive to be eafily fupplanted by any fcenes of fecondary beauty. LETTER LXXXIIL Rome, Dec. 7. TT was bet ween Spoletto and Terni, that we paused the higheft point of Appennine upon this route, and we have been fince re- gularly defcending. I could not pafs through Terni, 398 LETTER LXXXIII. Terni, without feeling an emotion of claf- iical pleafure. It was the birth-place of Tacitus, and the mind is forcibly imprefTed with fcenes thus connected with thofe it has learned to admire. Johnfon has exprefled, in his mafterly imitation of the Roman poets, the fame fentiment : Struck with the fpot which gave Eliza birth, We kneel, and kifs the Confecrated earth. IMIT. Sat. 3. Juv. Our route from Terni lay along the beau- tiful valley which connects this town with Narni. The waters of theNera, gracefully difcompofed, and rendered mufically fono- rous by the influx of the Velino, roll along this charming vale, in their way to the point of junction with the Tiber. The ruins of the great bridge, which once connected the two oppofite mountains, and over which pafled the high road to Peruggia, (lands at no great diftance from the town of Narni. The only entire arch which now remains, difcovers it to have been, whatever were its form, LETTER LXXXIII. 399 form, of bold and fublime conftrucYion. Blocks of ftone compofed without cement, and compacted into an apparently folid mafs, convey an high idea of the perfection to which the arts were carried in the age of Auguftus. What was once Otriculum, is now a little dirty poft town, and preferves more of its name than its fubftance, ftill retaining the appellation of Ocricoli. Nume- rous veftiges of ruined monuments are vifi- ble in its environs, and different fides of the roads yet ihew the remains of antient fabrics, and heaps of crumbling materials. The very ierpentine courfe which the Tiber purfues, engaged particularly my attention in paffing from Narni. The level furface of the coun- try allowed the eye to obferve the flexions of this ftream over a confiderable fpace. The beauties of cultivation gradually difappeared as we approached Citta Caftellana. It was from this miferable town, once the capital feat of the Falifci, and taken by Camillus, A. U. 359, that we yefterday fmifhed our journey 400 LETTER LXXXIII. journey to this metropolis. Scenes of na'J tural beauty had been for fome time reced- ing ; and now, in proportion as we ad- vanced, the afpect of the country increafed in that deformity which neglected agriculture and reduced population have introduced into the moft fertile and productive foil under the Heavens. A few fcattered huts, and thefe for the moft part finking into ruins, ferve rather to heighten the picture of defo- lation ; and to awaken a more lively degree of fenfibility in the bofom of the contempla- tive traveller. At length the dome of St. Peter's rifmg amidft this weary wafte, indi- cated our approach to ROME, which receiv- ed us by an entrance majeftic, and expreffive of the genius of this antient capital. END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. A 000006863 5 University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 405 Hilgard Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90024-1388 Return this material to the library from which it wds borrowed. 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