m^^. 
 
 ■^K'.^-:-'" 
 
 
 yi'/jiv}sr>','Viiiyi:'VK'-a-:orx'j<,'';',j/^:yjKiy:- /.■.•n ■ :-hJ ■ ■: :■ i: : ;<,
 
 oou/; 
 
 P 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 
 LOS ANGELES 
 
 ^^T^^^
 
 ■* I 
 
 L^
 
 Pacific Coast Survey of 
 1849 and 1850 
 
 By LEWIS A. McARTHUR 
 
 PORTLAND, OREGON
 
 c « « 
 
 •• C«Cc«Cc«C
 
 F 
 
 no 
 
 "Pacific Coast Survey of 1849 and 1850" 
 was printed in the "Oregon Historical Quar- 
 terly", volume XVI, number 3, for Septem- 
 ber, 1915. 
 
 T!!3TC:iY
 
 PACIFIC COAST SURVEY OF 1849 AND 1850 
 
 By Lewis A. McArthur.* 
 
 The first survey of the Pacific Coast by the United States 
 Government was made in 1849 and 1850. The field work was 
 done principally by Lieut. Commanding" William P. McArthur, 
 U. S. N., and Lieutenant Washington A. Bartlett, U. S. N.,' 
 assistants in the Coast Survey. There are some details of 
 the life -of Lieut. Commanding McArthur and the work he 
 carried on on the Pacific Coast that may be of interest to stu- 
 dents of Oregon history. 
 
 William Pope McArthur was born on April 2, 1814, at Ste. 
 Genevieve, Missouri. He was the oldest child of John and 
 Mary Linn McArthur. His mother was a sister of Dr. Lewis 
 Fields Linn, who was later to become Oregon's champion in 
 the United States Senate. Dr. Linn took a decided interest 
 in his nephew, and at the uncle's request, the youth was ap- 
 pointed a midshipman in the United States Navy on February 
 11. 1832. The first few years of his service were spent in 
 the South Pacific Station, and in April, 1837, he was granted 
 three months' leave. Two months later he was granted per- 
 mission to attend the Naval School at Norfolk, to perfect him- 
 self in his studies. 
 
 Early in the winter of 1837-8 the government organized an 
 expedition to the Everglades of Florida, and placed it under 
 command of Lieut. Commanding L. M. Powell, U. S. N. 
 McArthur served as commanding officer of one of the two 
 small vessels of the expedition, with the temporary title of 
 lieutenant. The expedition was a mixed command of sailors, 
 soldiers and marines. Among the members was Joseph E. 
 
 'The author of this paper is a grandson of William P. McArthur and a son 
 of Lewis Linn McArthur. 
 
 ^Gertrude Atherton, in her "California, an Intimate History," says that 
 Bartlett was the first American alcalde at Verba Buena, and that he changed the 
 name of the village to San Francisco in 1846.
 
 
 o^ 
 
 / 
 
 <ia— /
 
 The Pacific Coast Survey 247 
 
 Johnston, who later became one of the greatest generals of the 
 Confederate Army. Johnston had graduated from West Point 
 in 1829, served in the Black Hawk campaign, was stationed 
 at several forts along the Atlantic seaboard, and in 1836 
 accompanied General Scott to Florida as a member of his staflf. 
 Shortly thereafter Johnston resigned from the army, and took 
 up the study of civil engineering. \\^hen the expedition of 
 1837 was sent to the Everglades, Johnston volunteered to ac- 
 company it as topographical engineer. Acting Lieutenant Mc- 
 Arthur and Johnston became firm friends, and continued so 
 until the death of the former.^ 
 
 The expedition landed at Jupiter Inlet about the 10th or 
 12th of January, 1838. Johnston and Mc Arthur warned 
 Powell as to the tricks of Indian warfare, but Powell would 
 not listen, and as a result the command was ambushed, and 
 had it not been for the bravery and coolness of Johnston, the 
 column would have been annihilated. 
 
 McArthur was badly wounded in both legs, and was carried 
 to the boats by a faithful negro sailor. Johnston kept the men 
 in orderly retreat and undoubtedly prevented greater loss of 
 life. Later a surgeon removed the ball from one of Mc Arthur's 
 legs, but the other could not be extracted, and annoyed him 
 imtil the day of his death. 
 
 McArthur was sent to the Naval Llospital at Norfolk, and 
 while recovering, courted and married Mary Stone Young, on 
 May 3, 1838. Ilis wife was the daughter of Lieutenant John 
 J. Young, at that time superintendent of the Naval Hospital. 
 During the next two years he saw service on various vessels, 
 and on September 24, 1840, was ordered to the brig Consort, 
 detailed to the Coast Survey. The cruise lasted over a year, 
 and during that time a survey was made of the Gulf of Mexico. 
 From that time on his work was almost entirely with the Coast 
 Survey, duty calling him to nearly every nook and corner of 
 his country's coast line. 
 
 In the fall of 1848 he received the following instructions, 
 
 3 "General Johnston," !)>■ Robert M. IIuRJics; Applcton, 1893, gives further 
 particulars of Scott's campaign, and the expedition described here.
 
 248 Lewis A. McArthur 
 
 dated October 27, and signed by A. D. Bache,* Superintendent 
 U. S. Coast Survey: "I have been directed by the Treasury 
 Department to make arrangements for commencing the survey 
 of the Western Coast of the United States. A land party has 
 been for some time organizing under the charge of Assist. Jas. 
 S. Williams. I am directed also to organize a hydrographic 
 party, to accompany or speedily to follow the land party, and 
 you have been assigned to the command of the party. You will 
 please therefore make all preliminary arrangements in con- 
 formity with oral instructions already received, or such as may 
 suggest themselves as proper to you under circumstances, ob- 
 serving the usual routine in regard to estimates, etc. If no 
 more suitable vessel for your purpose can be obtained, the 
 Schr. Ezving, the transfer of which from the Revenue Service 
 has been directed by the Sect'y of the Treasury, will be as- 
 signed to you. 
 
 "The fitting out of this vessel and her dispatch at as early 
 a moment as practicable is desirable, say before the first week 
 of November. 
 
 "I do not deem it desirable that you should make the voy- 
 age in the vessel, as you cannot complete work now in hand, 
 nor so well seize the most prominent objects of the Western 
 work as by making the journey over the Isthmus, and joining 
 the vessel at Panama or San Francisco. The specific duties 
 required of you will be stated later in instructions. 
 
 "You are authorized to go to New York in connection with 
 the transfer of the Ezving at such time as you may deem best." 
 
 Lieut. Commanding McArthur left New York on one of the 
 new Aspinwall steamers, and in due time landed at Chagres. 
 The only route across the Isthmus was up the Chagres River 
 in boats, and thence by mule train over the trail to Panama. 
 Chagres was congested with a motley crowd, from all quarters 
 of the earth, making its way to the California gold fields. 
 Among the fortune hunters were many characterless men, and 
 
 4 Alexander iJallas Bache was one of America's foremost scientists, and 
 was a grandson of Benjamin Frinklin. He was born at Philadelphia on July 19, 
 1806, and died at Newport, R. I., on February 17, 1867. He served in many 
 positions of note, and was superintendent of the Coast Survey from 1843 to 1867.
 
 The Pacific Coast Survey 249 
 
 even fugitives from justice. They threw off all restraint, and 
 perpetrated so many crimes, that the authorities were power- 
 less. Prominent residents appealed to the more responsible 
 Americans, and asked their co-operation in putting down the 
 violence. Lieut. Commanding McArthur spoke Spanish fluent- 
 ly and accurately, and this coupled with the fact that he was 
 an American officer, caused him to be put at the head of an 
 impromptu vigilance committee. He and his colleagues took 
 the lead so effectively that within forty-eight hours the law- 
 lessness was ended. 
 
 When he reached Panama, here too were found many gold 
 seekers, many ill from fever, and the place was over- 
 crowded because of insufficient transportation to San Fran- 
 cisco. Passage tickets were commanding exorbitant prices. 
 
 Anchored near the island of Taboga was the ship Humboldt, 
 500 tons burden, owned by a Frenchman. J. B. Ferand, used 
 as a store ship for coal, and bonded in a large sum to remain 
 there in that service. So great was the pressure to leave 
 Panama, that a delegation waited on Ferand, and persuaded 
 him to forfeit his bond, and send the ship to San Francisco, 
 if he could secure four hundred passengers at $200 each, and 
 providing that no cooked provisions were to be furnished by 
 him except as could be prepared "once a day in a large fifty- 
 gallon kettle." Hot coffee was to be distributed in the morn- 
 ing, and hot tea in the evening, and from the perusal of Lieut. 
 Commanding McArthur's letters, it seems probable that the 
 tea and coffee were prepared in the same large kettle with the 
 meat and vegetables. 
 
 Four hundred persons were found who would ]jay the price, 
 and Ferand had the hulk overhauled. When the Ilumboldt 
 was watered and victualled, Ferand found he had no captain, 
 and he opened negotiations with McArthur, who agreed to 
 navigate the ship to San Francisco, in order to clear the city 
 of Panama of as many men as possible, as the fever was daily 
 growing more prevalent. 
 
 McArthur boarded the ship after the passengers were on
 
 250 Lewis A. McArthur 
 
 board, and at once saw that there were more than the con- 
 tracted for number, and that the ship was badly overcrowded. 
 He made an investigation that showed that Ferand had sold 
 four hundred and eighty tickets. He ordered the last eighty 
 passengers to go ashore, and proceeded to enforce the order 
 without delay. Fortunately a British brig^ put into Panama 
 that day and her captain was willing to take the rejected pas- 
 sengers at the same rate. 
 
 The Humboldt sailed on May 21, 1849. Lieut. Commanding 
 McArthur enforced strict discipline, as being the only means 
 of securing safety and comfort of the passengers and crev*'. 
 Among the former was Collis P. Huntington, for many years 
 president of the Southern Pacific Company. In the spring of 
 1890, he recounted to Lewis Linn McArthur, the third son 
 of Wm. P. McArthur, some of incidents of the trip. He 
 stated that there was one exceptionally turbulent fellow aboard, 
 who endeavored to provoke a quarrel with him, and threatened 
 other passengers. When this reached Lieut. Commanding 
 McArthur's ears, he immediately sought out the disturber, 
 and cautioned him not to repeat his annoyances. The man 
 resented this violently and McArthur immediately took his 
 weapons from him and had him put in irons. In a few days 
 his spirits had cooled, and he asked for pardon and promised 
 that there would be no more troublesome conduct on his part. 
 
 The passage was very slow, requiring forty-eight days to 
 reach Acapulco. When the Humboldt reached that port the 
 passengers and crew were almost famished because of a short- 
 age of food and water. 
 
 After a week's delay, the Humboldt proceeded to San Fran- 
 cisco, which port she reached in due time. 
 
 By the middle of September, 1849, the Ezving had arrived 
 from New York, and Lieut. Commanding McArthur was in- 
 stalled aboard, but no sooner had he prepared for operations, 
 than an incident occurred which gave him great annoyance. 
 
 S Julius H. Pratt, in the "Century Magazine" for April, 1891, gives an account 
 of his trip to California in 1849, and describes the voyage of the Humboldt in 
 greater detail. He states that the British brig that arrived so opportunely was the 
 Corbiere.
 
 The Pacific Coast Survey 251 
 
 While the schooner was lying in San Pablo Bay, Past Mid- 
 shipman Gibson was ordered ashore for some purpose, taking 
 five men and a boat. When the boat had proceeded some dis- 
 tance and the men thought themselves out of sight of the 
 Ezmng, they seized Gibson and threw him overboard, and 
 made for the nearest shore. Fortunately McArthur was look- 
 ing through his glasses at the time, and saw the whole occur- 
 rence. He dispatched a boat to the relief of Gibson, who was 
 rescued, and the deserters were overtaken and captured. They 
 were tried by court martial, and two were condemned to be 
 hanged, and lashes were ordered for the other three, as was 
 the custom in those days. One of the leaders, John Black by 
 name, was hanged on board the Eit/ing. In all of his letters 
 McArthur mentions the inability to get men to carry on the 
 survey, which was greatly delayed, and this fact discouraged 
 him sorely at times. The high wages and allurements of the 
 gold fields kept men from entering the government service at 
 a few dollars a month, and such men as could be secured were 
 generally worthless. 
 
 San Francisco was in the midst of the gold excitement, and 
 in a letter dated September 23, 1849, McArthur wrote to his 
 father-in-law, John J. Young, who was now a commander in 
 the Navy, as follows: "People are still crowding here from all 
 parts of the world, and everybody seems to be as crazy as ever, 
 but good order seems to prevail, and you w(ju1(1 Ijc surprised 
 to see how quietly business is carried on — everything ship- 
 shape and orderly. There is already a good police in San 
 Francisco, and the same was established yesterday in Sacra- 
 mento City, so if a Vagabond comes out here to cut up his 
 capers, he is quite mistaken. 
 
 "There is no especial news here except that the convention 
 for forming a state and state laws has been in session for some 
 time, and have acquitted themselves with great dignity and 
 good sense. They will have good, wholesome laws, 1 have 
 no doubt. 
 
 "The joint commission for the selection of sites for Fortifi-
 
 252 Lewis A. McArthur 
 
 cations, Navy Yards, Docks, etc., etc., are all here on board 
 the Massachusetts. They are without men and have done ab- 
 solutely nothing. They have borrowed some men from the 
 Commodore^ to enable them to run over to the Sandwich 
 Islands and ship a crew. . . . It is asserted that the islands 
 are nearly depopulated already. I hope seamen may be had 
 there, as I may be compelled to recruit there myself." 
 
 On October 26, 1849, Lieut. Commanding McArthur wrote 
 to Commander Young, dating his letter from San Pablo Bay. 
 Among other things he says : 
 
 "This country is truly one of the greatest wonders of any 
 age. The increase of population is truly wonderful. Let us 
 estimate San Francisco at 100,000 souls, Sacramento City 
 40,000, and Stockton 35,000 or nearly. Eighteen months ago 
 there was scarcely 100 people in all three. There [are] many 
 other places springing up into importance, and I am now 
 making a survey of a place where great improvements must 
 take place. But as it is an island, it will probably be reserved 
 by Government, and I presume to think that it will be the 
 site for the Navy Yard. 
 
 "As soon as I get through with this work, I will go on a 
 cruise of reconnaissance to the nortliward, and hope to be re- 
 paid by some discoveries. At all events, I would be pleased 
 to leave San Francisco for a time. 
 
 "Captain Williams has not been able to do any work for 
 want of hands — his men all left him but one, and he is waiting 
 to know whether he may be authorized to give California 
 prices for assistants. He expects to hear from the Superin- 
 tendent on the subject by the next steamer. The joint com- 
 mission for Yards, Docks, Fortifications, etc., are used up. 
 They are on board the Massachusetts, and will go to the 
 Islands (Sandwich) in a few days for men. I may go there 
 
 6 Captain Thomas ap Catesby Jones, who had the frigate Sa'i'annali as his 
 flagship. He commanded the American naval forces in the battle with the British 
 near New Orleans in December, 1814, and it wis he who made tlie premature 
 attempt to capture Monterey, California, on October 19, 1842. When he found 
 that the United States and Mexico were not at war, and that California had not 
 been ceded to England, he withdrew his landing party.
 
 The Pacific Coast Survey 253 
 
 also bye and bye to run away from the incessant rains which 
 are said to prevail with winter. 
 
 "[October] 27th. Today I commence work investigating 
 the conveniences and inconveniences of Mares Island Straits 
 with a view of ascertaining whether it would be a suitable 
 place for a Xavy Yard. I sincerely believe it to be the only 
 good place in the whole bay. The weather is still warm and 
 pleasant — much more so than in August. Thousands of geese 
 and brandts cover the hills in every direction, eating the wild 
 oats, and the Coyotl, a small animal resembling a Fox, spoken 
 of by Prescott (see Conquest of Mexico), is also very abund- 
 ant. 
 
 "I am very much surprised to find so few fish here. We 
 have not caught the first one, and yet they are very abundant 
 further up the Rivers." 
 
 In December the Ezmng made an extended trip to the 
 Hawaiian Islands. Previous to his departure from San Fran- 
 cisco, McArthur was deeply concerned about his health, but 
 the beneficial climate of the islands restored him to his natural 
 condition, and he returned to San Francisco early in 1850, 
 greatly improved in body and in spirit. 
 
 This same spring, however, brought new disappointments to 
 Lieut. Commanding McArthur. Interested as he was in the 
 Coast Survey, the desultory way in which the government car- 
 ried on the work discouraged him. For weeks the Ewi)ig lay 
 idle in San Francisco Bay, while the government refused to 
 pay the wages demanded by sailors. Few if any could be 
 secured at the small pay offered by the Department. McArthur 
 chafed at the delays, and finally after much labor the vacancies 
 in the crew were filled, and on April 3, 1850, the Ezuing 
 sailed out of the Golden Gate headed for a reconnaissance of 
 the northern coasts. 
 
 Just before leaving for the northern coasts McArthur wrote 
 to Commanrlcr Young, dating his letter late in March. In 
 addition to certain family matters, he wrote as follows: "I have 
 made up my mind to be disappointed with regard to the prob-
 
 254 Lewis A. McArthur 
 
 ability of our usefulness on this coast. Capt. Williams has 
 as yet done nothing and Heaven only knows when he may be 
 able to proceed with his labors. I have abandoned the hope 
 of his being able to do anything. I feel confident that no 
 work can go on at the present wages of the country as it 
 would require the whole of the Coast Survey appropriation to 
 keep a party together. Wages are still from five to twelve 
 dollars per day, and if anything still rising as the mining sea- 
 son opens. I have written to the Professor and laid my views 
 fully before him. 
 
 "In a few days I go to the mouth of the Columbia River and 
 shall make a reconnaissance of the coast both on my way up 
 and returning. I propose also to choose Points for a Light 
 house, Buoys, etc., at the mouth of that river. I shall then 
 be at the end of my tether. It will take about 3 months to 
 perform what is at present required of me and the Superin- 
 tendent in that time will perceive how utterly vain it is to 
 think of carrying on work here. I am now under the im- 
 pression that we may be recalled or ordered to disband here 
 in less than six months. 
 
 "The country is improving very much in this vicinity and 
 I do not doubt but that San Francisco will be a large and 
 beautiful city, already it has its public Square and churches 
 and other Public Buildings which give it an air of importance. 
 The country is becoming daily more settled and improved, but 
 not so much as might be supposed from the great number of 
 immigrants." 
 
 On April 13 he wrote Commander Young from Trinidad Bay 
 as follows: "I may safely say that the only happy days I have 
 spent in the country have been spent since we started. I am at 
 last at work and most usefully employed in making a recon- 
 naissance of the Coast as we go up. Great success has so far 
 attended the undertaking, and I must say that I shall have 
 good cause to congratulate myself if I am permitted to com- 
 plete the work to the Columbia River. I am operating on my
 
 The Pacific Coast Survey 255 
 
 own hook (as the saying is) Capt. Williams being unable to 
 obtain men with which to operate. 
 
 "We have completed a very correct outline of the coast, its 
 headlands, Bays, Rivers and indentations from San Francisco 
 to this place, as well as carrying on our soundings as we go, 
 and the results are such as to please me very much. We have 
 discovered many important errors in the charts of the coast, and 
 shall probably discover greater discrepancies as we go to the 
 north, as less is pretended to be known of the country in that 
 direction. 
 
 "I shall start from here tomorrow and shall stop at Pt. 
 Georges, distant about 40 miles to the northward of this place. 
 . . . There are also vessels there and a settlement has been 
 made. Rogues or Klamet River is my next stopping place, after 
 that then the Columbia. I may be detained at point Georges Pt. 
 some days, as I shall endeavor to secure the bodies of Lieuten- 
 ants Ricd. Bache and Robert L. Browning, who were drowned 
 at that place.^ 
 
 McArthur's next letter to Commander Young is dated As- 
 toria, Oregon Territory, June 3, 1850. Among other things 
 he says : 
 
 "We are now in Oregon, where I shall remain until I re- 
 ceive further instructions or orders. I hope such will be given 
 me as will permit us to proceed at once to work. We can 
 live better and cheaper here than in any part of the coast. The 
 salmon is fine and abundant, but not so good as the shad. 
 Butter is plenty at 62 to 75 cts pr. Ih.. fresh beef 20 cts. pr. 
 lb. The climate is agreeable and healthy. The water is not 
 inferior to any in the world. The face of the country is too 
 uneven to permit as general cultivation, still it will and must 
 soon become a great agricultural and stock growing country. 
 
 7 Lieutenant Richard Hache and Lieutenant Ri)t)crl L. lirowninft were drowned 
 on the northwest coast of California on March 27, 1850, while in.'ikinK some special 
 surveying investigations. Lieutenant liache was the younger brother of Professor 
 Bache.
 
 256 Lewis A. McArthur 
 
 The scenery is beautiful and in some places and some points of 
 view the grandest that the eye ever beheld.^ 
 
 "Lt. Blunt who is now with me has traveled considerably 
 through the country and is so much pleased with it, that he has 
 taken a section of land and made a regular claim to it, he has 
 also taken one for myself and one for Lt. Bartlett, both ad- 
 joining his ! What do you think of that? I intend to have my 
 claim registered according to the custom of the country, and 
 protect it as long as I may be on the coast. I may be able to 
 sell it this fall to the emigrants. It lies in the Willammette Val- 
 ley and is represented to be a beautiful location. If I could 
 hold it for 5 years it would be a fortune. 
 
 "You can scarcely imagine the change in the prospects of 
 this country since the discovery of the new south channel, and 
 the arrival for the first time of the Pacific Mail Steamers. 
 Property has advanced materially, and points along the river 
 are of much importance, which have hither passed unnoticed. 
 
 "The greatest difficulty existing here at present is the want 
 of acts of Congress to define the extent of land claims and to 
 regulate all matters attending the surveying and giving titles, 
 etc. Nothing exists in the shape of law. There already exists 
 much confusion, which is not likely to decrease till laws be 
 passed. 
 
 "The great probability is that Oregon will develop more 
 rapidly for the next ten years than any other part of the 
 United States except California. You will soon be startled 
 with the cry that gold is found in Oregon. I have no doubt 
 of its existence myself. It has already been found as far north 
 as Rogues River and the mines on that River are being worked 
 successfully. Several exploring expeditions are scouring the 
 different directions. Their return is looked for with intense 
 interest. You may depend upon receiving letters by every op- 
 
 8 Among those who made the trip from San Francisco to the Columbia River 
 on the Eiving was William H. Packwood, now of Baker, Oregon, who is the sole 
 survivor of the Oregon Constitutional Convention of 1857. Judge Packwood was 
 one of a small party of the First U. S. Mounted Rifles that was transported from 
 San Francisco to Oregon in the Eiving. For his description of the trip, see the 
 Oregonian lor February 20, 19 15.
 
 The Pacific Coast Survey 257 
 
 portunity, but especially now by the regular mails. I do not 
 like to trust my letters to ships. They are neglected and lost." 
 On July 16,1850, McArthur wrote Commander Young as 
 follows from Astoria: "Since I last wrote you I have been 
 all through Puget's Sound, Hoods Canal, Admiralty Inlet, 
 etc., etc. I went over in the Steamer Carolina. We stopped 
 at Victoria on Vancouver Island, and spent a very pleasant 
 night with Governor Douglas of the Hudson's Bay Company. 
 In the morning we went over the farm, visited the dairy, and 
 garden and fields. Everything wore a charming aspect. The 
 wilderness is now in its incipient smile. In a few years it 
 will increase to a broad grin. 
 
 "The waters of the sound are a strange and peculiar anomaly. 
 The deep blue sea runs up inland passing between straits but 
 half a mile wide with a depth of over an hundred fathoms. 
 Bays, Harbours, Inlets and Roads startle you at every turn- 
 ing, forming a perfect labyrinth. We journeyed on to Nis- 
 qually in the steamer and there I took possession of the "Ship 
 Albion" siezed by the collector of the district. She was siezed 
 for a most flagrant violation of the revenue laws and also for 
 committing depredations on our timber, etc., etc. I would 
 have brought her here but could not obtain a crew. We then 
 came across the country traveling through a splendid grazing 
 country for the first 24 miles. Our horses being tired, we 
 tarried 'till morning with an old Missourian. The next day 
 we reached the Cowlitz, traveling all day through the most 
 excellent farming country I have ever beheld. We staid all 
 night at the house of an old Canadian who treated us very 
 kindly. We started the next day in a canoe down the Cowlitz 
 and arrived at the mouth of the Columbia without accident, 
 where I found I had been absent from the Raving just one 
 month! I found the sweet little craft all right. Whilst at 
 Nisqually we spent 4 days at the farm of the Puget's Sound 
 Agricultural Society, and witnessed the interesting process of 
 the shearing of ten thousand sheep ! 
 
 "We have now nearly completed our work here and will soon
 
 258 Lewis A. McArthur 
 
 top our boom southward reconnoitering the coast toward San 
 Francisco, stopping- there for provisions, etc., etc. From there 
 we shall go to Point Conception and perhaps San Diego. 
 
 "Notwithstanding the unfavorable circumstances under 
 which we have labored, we shall have obtained many very im- 
 portant results and now we have a land party under way we 
 wall proceed more rapidly. This winter I shall perhaps be at 
 San Diego, and the next by the blessing of God I shall be at 
 
 home." 
 
 The next letter is dated at San Francisco, August 27. "We 
 arrived here safely on the 22nd. from a cruise along the coast. 
 We have been successful in surveying the mouth of the Colum- 
 bia River and up the same as far as Astoria. You will be 
 surprised when I tell you that the dangers of the navigation 
 of this truly magnificent river have been vastly exaggerated. 
 We have crossed the bar sometimes as many as ten times a 
 day for weeks together. More vessels have visited the Co- 
 lumbia within the last year than perhaps ever before and not 
 the slightest accident has occurred. We have completed our 
 work faithfully. I feel sure the Superintendent will feel as 
 much gratified as I do. 
 
 "On our way from the Columbia River we were successful 
 enough to make a good reconnaissance of the whole coast 
 from Cape Disappointment to this place and the limits of 
 error may be estimated at one mile in longitude and an >4 
 mile in latitude. This I consider quite a triumph. We visited 
 every river, bay and headland, and in fact sailed nine-tenths 
 of the way within half a mile of the shore, anchoring every 
 night and resuming our work in the morning. My fame (if 
 any be merited) will rest upon this reconnaissance. I most 
 heartily wish I could send you a copy of it.^ The scale is ten 
 times as large as that of Captain Wilkes and every accessory 
 has been successfully attended to. 
 
 9 The three sheets of the Pacific Coast reconnaissance chart were engraved, 
 printed and published in 20 working days from tlie time the drawings v/ere first 
 received at the Coast Survey Office in Washington — a remarkable record. fhey 
 are on a scale of about 1-850,000 or approximately i inch to 13.5 miles. Jhey 
 may be found in the volume of accompanying papers to the annual report of the 
 Superintendent of the Coast Survey for 1851.
 
 The Pacific Coast Survey 259 
 
 "Upon my return here I find San Francisco very much im- 
 proved. The Bay is ahve with steamers of every size and 
 beautiful brick buildings adorn many of the streets. Busi- 
 ness is quite lively and the El Dorado is flourishing rapidly." 
 
 On September 15 McArthur wrote from San Francisco: 
 "For my own part I do not deem a geodetic survey required at 
 present. A reconnaissance and the establishment of Latitudes 
 and Longitudes of the principal points, headlands Bays, an- 
 chorages, harbors, etc., with a selection of points for Light- 
 houses and Buoys and general Sailing directions would in my 
 opinion meet the present exigencies and would enable us to 
 investigate the manner, the best manner, of operating for the 
 future. I have already expressed myself in these terms to the 
 Supdt. and I believe his opinion coincides with mine. 
 
 "Every day almost I meet some friend or acquaintance from 
 the States. Dr. Rutter, and Dr. Willson,i" a young brother of 
 Holt, is also here as well as several others from Portsmouth. 
 Washington is also represented and at the Columbia River 1 
 met two troupes of Artisans from Baltimore, all old acquaint- 
 ances. 
 
 "Commodore Jones is in many respects the finest naval offi- 
 cer I have ever met. In point of foresight and good judg- 
 ment he surpasses any." 
 
 On October 13, 1850, he wrote: "Since my arrival from 
 Oregon I have been very busily engaged in preparing our 
 work and reports for the past season and will comjjlete every- 
 thing tomorrow and place all in the hands of Lieut. W. A. 
 Bartlett, who is charged with the charts, etc., and takes them 
 on to Washington." Lieut. Commanding McArthur, in this 
 letter described briefly his visit to the Hawaiian Lslands the 
 year before and his entertainment at the hands of Ilis Hawaiian 
 Majesty Kamehameha HI. McArthur mentions the fact that 
 by this time wages in the vicinity of San Francisco were grad- 
 ually resuming normal figures. On Ocobcr 31 he wrote of the 
 gloom cast over the city by the bursting of the boilers of the 
 
 10 Dr. R. B. Wilson, for many years a prominent ohysician •>! I'ortland.
 
 260 Lewis A. McArthur 
 
 Mariposa, which killed some 30 persons. He had now been 
 away from home for two years, and the departure of Bartlett, 
 together with the knowledge that he would be away from his 
 family for another year at least doubtless prayed on his mind, 
 but on November 21 he received welcome news from Professor 
 Bache to the effect that a contract was being signed for a 
 225-ton steamer^i for the Pacific Coast work. McArthur was 
 directed to return to Washington at once to examine the vessel 
 and prepare plans for the season of 1851. Under these flat- 
 tering circumstances and overjoyed at the prospect of so soon 
 seeing the family he had for so long been separated from, he 
 set sail from San Francisco for Panama on the Oregon, on 
 December 1. Alas, he was never to reach his home. When 
 but shortly out of San Francisco an acute attack of dysentery 
 prostrated him completely, and despite medical assistance he 
 died on December 23, 1850, just as the Oregon was entering 
 Panama harbor. He was buried on the Island of Taboga. In 
 1867 his remains were moved to the Mare Island Navy Yard 
 by Lieut. Commander McDougall. 
 
 On February 8, 1851, the members of the Coast Survey met 
 in Washington to pay tribute to the memory of William Pope 
 McArthur. Professor Bache and Brevet Major Isaac I. 
 Stevens, U. S. Engineers, who was at that time attached to the 
 Coast Survey, addressed the meeting and appropriate resolu- 
 tions were passed. Professor Bache's words perhaps best 
 summed up the work of Lieutenant Commanding McArthur, 
 and showed the feelings of the Survey toward the deceased 
 officer. Professor Bache said : 
 
 We are met here, as you all know, to pay a melancholy tribute 
 of friendship and respect to one who was dear to us all — dear as a 
 brother to many of us. Instead of greeting his arrival among us as 
 we had fondly hoped, in health, in the full flush of success, we meet 
 to mourn together over his loss from our band. The work which 
 he has accomplished will live forever. Surrounded by circumstances 
 
 II The Conuin. Before the vessel was coinpleted it was decided th it time 
 could be saved bv sending the steamer Jefferson to the Pacific Coast. The Jefferson 
 was dismantled in a gale off Patagonia, and had to be abandoned. It, therefore, 
 became necessary to send the Corwin after all.
 
 The Pacific Coast Survey 261 
 
 the most difficult, perhaps, which ever tried the constancy, the 
 judgment, the resources of any hydrographer, he vanquished cir- 
 cumstances. His reconnoissance of the western coast, from Mon- 
 terey to Columbia river, and his preliminary survey there, were 
 made in spite of desertion, and even mutiny; in despite of the in- 
 adequacy of means to meet the truly extraordinary circumstances 
 of the country. Happy that in his officers he had friends devoted 
 to him and to their duty, especially happy in the officer next to 
 him in the responsibilities of the work. 
 
 Prostrated by an attack of fever of a malignant type, contracted 
 while preparing his vessel for sea, Lieutenant McArthur neverthe- 
 less persisted in volunteering for the charge of the hj-drographical 
 party on the western coast. A subsequent relapse did not abate his 
 determination to enter as a pioneer upon this arduous service, 
 trying alike to his powers of mind and body. Steady in the midst 
 of excitement, he laid his plans in the way to command success. 
 Seizing the peculiar wants of the hydrography of that coast, he 
 applied all his energies to supply them. The gratitude of his fellow- 
 citizens there is already his; the praise of a new country, the re- 
 sources of which he had aided in developing. 
 
 He has been called away just as his wishes were realized, ample 
 means provided, and the first and worst difficulties overcome. In 
 his letters and reports he urged strongly the necessity for enlarged 
 appropriations, and for a steam vessel for the hydrography. His 
 last letters from this office brought him news that both his wishes 
 were gratified, and called him home to make the enlarged arrange- 
 ments for continuing his work. The arrival of Mr. Cutts with 
 instructions, as late as the beginning of October, confirmed the 
 necessity of his return, and he took passage in the steamer Oregon, 
 commanded by his friend. Lieutenant Patterson. 
 
 An attack of dysentery prostrated him completely, and from this, 
 in spite of the best medical attendance, of such nursing and attend- 
 ance as only the circumstances to which I have referred could in- 
 sure, he rallied but for a time, and sunk to his final rest before he 
 could be landed at Panama. His remains were consigned to a 
 foreign soil, to be brought, let us hope, to his country, where all 
 his affections centered. 
 
 He has not lived in vain. His name will ever be bright in tlic 
 annals of our Survey, whether in the more usual labors on our 
 .Atlantic coast, or as the pioneer on the shores of the Pacific. 
 Always advancing as life advanced — the last his crowning work. 
 
 Professor Bache having concluded his remarks, Lieut. Wash- 
 ington A. Bartlett, U. S. N., arose and said: 
 
 Mr. Chairman and Gentlemen: After the appropriate and feel-
 
 262 Lewis A. McArthur 
 
 ing remarks of the chairman, it is unnecessary for me to add more 
 than to say that when I left Captain McArthur on the western 
 coast he was in excellent health and buoyant spirits, in view of 
 what had been, and what he hoped yet to accomplish. It was 
 my good fortune to be long associated with him., and that associa- 
 tion caused me to love him as a brother. I will not detain you, 
 but offer the following resolutions for your consideration: 
 
 1. Resolved, That the civilians and ofificers of the army and 
 navy engaged on the United States Coast Survey, now assembled 
 in Washington, have received with feelings of deep emotion the 
 melancholy intelligence of the death of Lieut. Commanding Wm. 
 P. McArthur, U. S. Navy, Assistant in the Coast Survey; and that 
 in his sudden and unexpected decease the navy has lost one of 
 its most gallant and accomplished officers, and the Coast Survey 
 one of its most zealous and efficient laborers. 
 
 2. Resolved, That the successful reconnoissance of the western 
 coast of the United States, from Monterey to Columbia river, and 
 the preliminary survey of the entrance to the Columbia, accom- 
 plished under the most peculiar and extraordinary diffculties, while 
 they are proofs of his unconquerable energy, determination, and 
 skill, have forever identified the name of Wm. P. McArthur with 
 the progress of the Republic in the West. 
 
 3. Resolved, That we most sincerely sympathize with the 
 bereaved and afflicted family of our generous and warm-hearted 
 friend in their irreparable loss, and commend the widow and or- 
 phans to the gratitude of the Republic to whose service the hus- 
 band and father was so ardently devoted throughout his life. 
 
 4. Resolved, That Professor A. D. Bache, Superintendent of the 
 United States Coast Survey; Brevet Major I. I. Stevens, of the 
 United States Engineers; Lieutenant M. Woodhull, of the United 
 States Navy; Mr. J. J. Ricketts, of the United States Coast Sur- 
 vey, and Passed Midshipman R. M. Cuyler, of the United States 
 Navy, be a committee to take the necessary measures to have 
 erected, in the Congressional burying ground, a suitable monu- 
 ment commemorative of the services and virtues of the deceased. 
 
 5. Resolved, That a copy of these resolutions be communicated 
 to the Navy and Treasury Departments, with a request that they 
 be placed on the files, and also to the family of the deceased, and 
 that they be published. 
 
 6. Resolved, That the officers of the Coast Survey will wear 
 a badge of mourning for thirty days in further testimony of their 
 regard for the memory of the late Lieutenant Commanding Wil- 
 liam P. McArthur.
 
 The Pacific Coast Survey 263 
 
 Major Stevens, in seconding the resolution, addressed the meet- 
 ing as follows: 
 
 I rise, Mr. Chairman, in the name of one of the co-ordinate 
 services associated on duty here, to pay a tribute to the memory 
 of Lieut. McArthur. I can add nothing to the remarks that have 
 been already made. I simply propose to pay a tribute of feeling 
 and respect. 
 
 It was not my fortune to know Lieut. McArthur personally. 
 But I feel that I know him well through his works. They hold up 
 his character as worthy of all respect and admiration. In prosecut- 
 ing his labors on the Pacific shore he exhibited a constancy, an 
 energy, and a rare force of command which enabled him to triumph 
 over almost insuperable difficulties. These qualities would have 
 made him conspicuous in any career. He possessed all the ele- 
 ments of the heroic spirit. Trials which bowed down the strength 
 of strong men gave his feeble frame almost superhuman strength; 
 and he accomplished, in the midst of sickness and physical de- 
 pression, of mutiny and desertion, labors that those most highly 
 favored by health and appliances would have shrunk from. His 
 example appeals to us with irresistible force. How can we yield 
 to despondency witnessing his lion heart accomplishing its great 
 purpose — giving vigor to a worn-out frame, and snatching success 
 from the elements of defeat? 
 
 McArthur was an ornament to both services with which he was 
 connected — to that larger service, the profession of his youth, in 
 which he took such pride; and to that other service to which his 
 maturer years have been applied. He has, in tlie words of the 
 resolutions, for ever identified his name with the progress of the 
 Republic in the West. It has gone into history, and will hence- 
 forth be associated with those of Decatur and of Perry. 
 
 The resolutions having been agreed to unanimously, the meet- 
 ing adjourned sine die. 
 
 (Signed) A. D. BACHE, Chairman. 
 
 THORNTON A. JENKINS, Secretary. 
 
 Under the date of December, 1850, and published probal)ly 
 early in 1851, the Coast Survey issued a small pamphlet en- 
 titled "Notices of the Western Coast of the United States." 
 This pamphlet contained eight notices, all of them by McArthur 
 and Bartlett, wliich dealt with Pacific Coast matters. A Ijrief 
 synopsis of these notices follows: 
 
 "No. 1. Sailing Directions to Accompany the New Chart 
 of the Western Coast of the U. S. First edition, published
 
 264 Lewis A. McArthur 
 
 December, 1850." We will omit the general directions and 
 the directions for Sheet No. 1, and part of Sheet No. 2. The 
 remaining directions are as follows : 
 
 "Klamath river has 15 feet on the bar at low water. It is not 
 difficult of entrance with a good breeze, but very difficult to get 
 out of, the current running so strong that sailing vessels must 
 come out stern foremost to be steered. There is a staff on the 
 south side of the river, on which a white flag, with black ball, is 
 generally hoisted. 
 
 "Port St. George is a safe anchorage in the summer at the point 
 indicated by the anchor. The reef off Cape St. George consists 
 of rocky islets. The in-shore channel is good and clear, and shown 
 by the track of the schooner Ewing. From Pelican Bay, with a 
 breeze, take this channel. 
 
 "From Cape St. George to the Toutounis, or Rogue's river, there 
 are no special dangers. In the summer, vessels may anchor any- 
 where along the coast, and there are landing places south of all 
 the rocky points. The Toutounis, or Rogue's river, has but 10 
 feet on the bar, is rapid, and passes between high mountains. 
 
 "Avoid the kelp, which indicates rocks under water, and do not 
 approach the shore at night. 
 
 "Ewing harbori2 is a safe anchorage in summer. There is no surt 
 in the landing cove." 
 
 "From Cape St. George to Cape Orford,!^ the coast is thickly 
 inhabited by bands of wild Indians, and care is necessary not to 
 be surprised by them. 
 
 "There is a reef of rocky islets off Cape Orford. 
 
 "From Cape Orford to Cape Arago, there is no danger clear of 
 the beach. 
 
 "The Kowes river^^ has not yet been examined. The anchorage 
 to the northward of the bluff is good. 
 
 "The Umpqua is accessible for steamers, and for small sailing 
 vessels only, under very favorable circumstances. 
 
 "When off Cape Arago, in clear weather, the high sand bluffs 
 of the Umpqua are plainly seen." 
 
 "The coast from the Umpqua river to the Columbia is generally 
 bordered by a sand beach, with white sand hills, and the interior 
 is densely wooded with fir or pine. The cliffs, when they occur, 
 are bold, but afford no shelter for anchoring. In the summer, a 
 vessel may anchor in twenty fathoms off any of these beaches. 
 
 12 Ewing Harbor is now known as Port Orford. 
 
 13 Cape Orford is now Cape Blanco. 
 
 14 Kowes River — Coos Bay.
 
 The Pacific Coast Survey 265 
 
 "The Alseya, Yaquinna, and Killamooki^ rivers require further 
 examination. 
 
 "In proceeding to the northward in winter, make Killamook 
 head, and if the weather renders approach to the bar of the Co- 
 lumbia undesirable, keep to the southward of Cape Hancock, (Dis- 
 appointment,) as the current is northwardly in winter. 
 
 "There are good pilots in attendance at the mouth of the Co- 
 lumbia, and the chart of the entrance and bar will give directions 
 for approaching. The pilots are usually off the south channel in 
 a small schooner showing a fly at the main. If not seen, fire your 
 guns. 
 
 "Cape Hancock (Disappointment) has several trees trimmed up, 
 showmg a 'broom top,' and may be thus known from the cape to 
 the northward of Shoal-Water bay. 
 
 "To avoid mistaking Shoal-Water bay for the mouth of the 
 Columbia (the soundings being similar), make Killamook head. 
 Never omit this in winter. There are no dangers of the beach 
 northward of Killamook head, and the soundings in approaching 
 it are regular. 
 
 "Note. — Notwithstanding the remarks as to the general fact of 
 the winds prevailing in the N. W. and N. N. W. quarter during 
 the summer, it is proper to state that, in the month of June, 1850, 
 the winds to the northward of San Francisco were light from the 
 southward and westward, with showers north of Mendocino for 
 the whole month, and the coasters ran to the northward with all 
 steering sails. 
 
 "It is, however, yet to be demonstrated whether June is a regu- 
 lar period of southerly breezes." 
 
 "No. 2. Islands and Rivers." McArthur states that he 
 considers the "Farrallones" to be the only islands deserving 
 of the name between Monterey and the Columbia River, and 
 recommends that a lighthouse be placed on them. Under the 
 head of "Rivers," he mentions the following Oregon streams: 
 
 "The Klamath. — On the bar of this river there arc 17 feet water 
 at mean low water. The channel is so narrow, and the current so 
 strong, that I deem it unsafe for sailing vessels. Steamers are re- 
 quired to make this river useful. 
 
 "Rogue's river. — This river has 10 feet water on the bar at the 
 mouth, at mean low water; but it is too narrow for sailing vessels, 
 as there is scarcely room to turn in the channel. 
 
 "The Coquille river is not available for any thing larger than 
 small boats and canoes. 
 
 15 The early spellings of Tillamucjk were nil with a K, iiulir.itiiiK 'i KUltiir.il 
 pronunciation.
 
 266 Lewis A. McArthur 
 
 "The Kowes. — This river was not so closely examined, but to 
 judge b}' appearances at the mouth, I do not hesitate to express 
 the opinion that it will be found to be available and very useful 
 for steamers. 
 
 "The Umpqua. — I crossed the bar of this river in the second 
 cutter, in 14 feet water, and passed into three fathoms on the inside 
 of the bar, the rollers breaking at the time all the way across the 
 channel. The channel, in my opinion, is practicable for steamers, 
 but dangerous to sailing vessels, unless under very favorable cir- 
 cumstances. 
 
 "The remaining rivers to the northward can only be entered by 
 small boats, except, perhaps, the 'Yaquinna,' which might be en- 
 tered by vessels of a larger class. 
 
 "In making my report, with regard to the navigation of these 
 rivers, I beg leave to be considered as only giving my opinion, un- 
 less in case when I mention particularly the depth of water, then, 
 of course, I speak authoritatively. I would recommend, however, 
 an earlj' and detailed examination of all; and for this purpose a 
 steamer is indispensable. All of which is respectfully submitted 
 by your obedient servant." 
 
 "No. 3. Columbia River, Oregon." This is the first hydro- 
 graphic notice ever pubhshed by the Coast Survey for the 
 Pacific Coast, and should be reproduced in full on that account. 
 It follovirs : ■ 
 
 "Sailing directions for entering the Columbia river^** as far as the 
 harbor of Astoria, by Lieut. Commanding W. P. McArthur, 
 U. S. N., Assistant in the Coast Survey. 
 
 "It is best under all circumstances to have a pilot; but should 
 it be necessary to enter the river without one, the directions for 
 the north channel are: First, bring Sand Island in range with 
 Point Ellice, and stand in towards Sand Island, passing the south 
 end of the north breaker; when Cape Disappointment and Leading- 
 in-Cliff are in range, haul up towards the Cape, keeping Leading- 
 in-Cliff in range until nearly abreast the Cape. Give the Cape a 
 small berth, and continue on towards Baker's Bay until the second 
 island in the bay can be seen; then keep off, and with the second 
 island and Cape in range astern, it will pass clear of the north part 
 of the Middle Sands. As soon as the soundings shoal on this course, 
 keep off towards Sand Island, and passing close by the east end 
 
 i6The Columbia River chart, on a scile of 1-4,000 or about one inch to five- 
 eighths of a statute mile, may be found in the accompanying papers to the annual 
 report of the Superintendent of the Coast Survey for 1851.
 
 The Pacific Coast Survey 267 
 
 of the island, get the beacon on the island in range with a tree on 
 Cape Disappointment (which is trimmed up like an umbrella), 
 and with that range astern, stand on up the bay until the custom- 
 house is on with Young's Point, when haul to the east, and keep 
 the last range on till nearly up with Young's Point. Pass along 
 the south shore, running by the lead until up to Astoria. 
 
 "To enter the south channel, bring the beacon on Sand Island 
 to bear north 40 degrees east, (true,) and Point Adams on the peak, 
 which can be seen east of Point EUice, and called ']'nn Crow,' 
 (upon which there is a notable tree.) nearly in range, the vessel 
 will be then on the bar in the south channel in the best water. 
 Steer for the beacon, taking care not to sag to the eastward; rather 
 keep close to the breakers on the Sand Island shore. Pass close 
 to Sand Island, and fall into the range of the beacon with the 
 trimmed tree on Cape Disappointment, and proceed as already 
 directed. 
 
 "The best time for entering -is on the first or last of the ebb tide. 
 The last of the ebb tide is preferable in either channel " 
 
 No. 4 consists of notes on the new chart of the Columbi.i 
 River, by Lieutenant Commanding- McArthur, and is worded 
 as follows : 
 
 "Notes on the new chart of Columbia river, from a preliminary 
 survey, by Lieut. Commanding W. P. McArthur, U. S. N., As- 
 sistant in the Coast Survey. 
 
 U. S. Surveying Schooner Ewing, 
 
 San Francisco, September 25, 1850. 
 
 Sir: 
 
 ******** 
 
 "When comparing our chart with that of the Exploring Expedi- 
 tion, the changes of the channels and shoals at the mouth of the 
 Columbia river will be found to be numerous and considerable. 
 Sand Island is nearly a mile further to the westward now than it 
 was in 1840-'41. The north channel seems to be gradually filling 
 up, whilst the new south channed is becoming both larger and 
 deeper. This change will go on until some violent storm will throw 
 up the sand again, and upon subsiding leave the water of the river 
 to find a new channel. 
 
 "I have examined all the charts that have been made of tlie 
 Columbia river from the time of its discovery to tlie present, and 
 find that there has been continued changes going on, but at all times 
 has there been a good deep channel at the mouth of liiis river.
 
 268 Lewis A. McArthur 
 
 To these changes in the channel is to be attributed the great dread 
 which navigators have had of the Columbia. 
 
 "There is now a good Pilot at the mouth of the Columbia, and 
 I have recommended a Light-house on Cape Disappointment, and 
 five buoys to be placed in such a manner as best to point out the 
 channel. I would also recommend that these be placed under the 
 superintendence of the Pilot, who will always know when any 
 change in the channel takes place, and he can move them to such 
 positions as he might think best. By this means, the dangers and 
 delays attending the navigation of the Columbia would be vastly 
 diminished. 
 
 "The greatly increasing commerce of Oregon demands that these 
 improvements be made immediately. The more especially since 
 the Columbia is the most important portion of Oregon for the pur- 
 suits of commerce. 
 
 "After crossing the bar, there is a good, unobstructed channel 
 for ships up as far as Astoria, beyond which Tongue Point bar 
 presents quite a serious obstacle to vessels drawing sixteen or 
 even fifteen feet water. The channel over this bar is very crooked 
 and shallow; vessels seldom pass it without delay. Once beyond 
 Tongue Point bar, vessels can easily go up the Columbia as far 
 as Fort Vancouver, on the Columbia, and Portland, on the Wil- 
 lammette river. I am of the opinion, however, that the time is at 
 hand when the navigation of the Columbia river will be conducted 
 by steam vessels as far down as Astoria. 
 
 "The harbor of Astoria is perfectly safe and capacious; abund- 
 ance of wood and water can easily be procured. The holding 
 ground is good. 
 
 "Within the last eighteen months, more vessels have crossed 
 the Columbia river bar than had crossed it perhaps in all time past, 
 and during that time no vessel has received the slightest injury; 
 and but few have met with much delay. 
 
 "I would request that our Chart of the Columbia may be pub- 
 lished as soon as may be practicable." 
 
 I am, very respectfully and truly yours, 
 (Signed) WM. P. McARTHUR, 
 
 Lieut. Com'g and Assistant U. S. Coast Survey. 
 
 "To Professor A. D. Bache, 
 
 Superintendent U. S. Coast Survey, Washington, D. C." 
 
 "Note. — This Chart will be published at the Coast Survey oflFice 
 about the tenth of March, 1851. 
 
 "No. 5. Columbia River, Oregon." This note by Bartlett 
 relates to the draught of vessels that may be taken over the
 
 The Pacific Coast Survey 269 
 
 Columbia River bar, and the statement is made that vessels 
 drawing 17 feet could be taken over the south bar at Yx flood 
 or ^ ebb without the least risk. In addition, this notice says : 
 
 "In addition, I would state that my experience at the mouth of 
 the Columbia, has convinced me that the south channel is the prac- 
 ticable commercial channel of that river for certainty and safety, 
 with the additional advantage of accomplishing the passage, to or 
 from the river, without waiting for a particular wind. Ships fre- 
 quently pass the bar inward in fifteen minutes after receiving their 
 pilot, and outward in thirty minutes after getting their anchors. 
 
 "A disabled ship, that can be sailed so as to have good steerage 
 way, can pass over the south bar in safety, when it would be im- 
 possible to get her in by the north channel. 
 
 "From the 18th of April, to the 5th of August, 1850, there was 
 no day that the south channel was not practicable for vessels, and 
 was in daily use. 
 
 "I crossed the bar (south channel) in the pilot-boat 'Mary 
 Taylor' during the 'heaviest bar' that occurred within the above 
 named period, beating out with the wind ahead. 
 
 "The principal pilot of the bar is Captain White, late pilot of 
 New York harbor; he is very intelligent, and competent to his 
 duties, and no accident has occurred at the mouth of the Columbia 
 since September, 1849, when he commenced his duties as pilot. 
 
 "The commerce of the Columbia river — the great artery of the 
 fertile valleys of the Columbia and its tributaries — is rapidly in- 
 creasing; the Pacific Mail Steamship Company's steamers now 
 proceed to Astoria, and return to San Francisco with the monthly 
 mails. A small steamer has been built at Astoria, and is now 
 employed in the river trade. A second steamer was on the stocks 
 when we left the river. 
 
 "Regular lines of sailing and steam-propeller vessels, are also 
 established between San Francisco and the various towns on the 
 Columbia; also to Nisqually, and other points in Puget's sound." 
 
 No. 6 relates to the lights deemed necessary for San Fran- 
 cisco Bay and its approaches. 
 
 No. 7 relates to the report of Bartlett on the proposed light- 
 house at Cape Disappointment, which is as follows : 
 
 Washington, November 29, 1850. 
 "Sir: In answer to your inquiries as to the character of the 
 Light-house, which should be erected at Cape Hancock or Dis- 
 appointment, at the mouth of the Columbia River, Oregon Terri-
 
 270 Lewis A. McArthur 
 
 tory, and for information as to the locality on which it should be 
 placed, &c.: 
 
 "I have the honor to state, that Cape Hancock or Disappoint- 
 ment, at the mouth of the Columbia River, Oregon Territory, 
 where it is proposed by a late act of Congress to erect the prin- 
 cipal Light-house for that river, is a bold cliff of columnar basalt, 
 rising perpendicularly from the sea to variable heights of from 
 200 to 300 feet, terminating in unequal rolling summits, covered 
 with a rich and fertile soil. 
 
 "These summits vary also in width from ten to fifty feet at the 
 apex, whence they slope by a quick descent to the northward; 
 the northern or inrshore face of the hills being covered by a dense 
 growth of gigantic pine, alder, and other trees, with a thick growth 
 of vines, 'Salmon Berry,' and other shrubbery. 
 
 "The summit of the sea-cliffs (which are not covered by the 
 forest) is the proper position for locating the Light-house, say 
 within two to four hundred yards to the westward of 'Broom Sta- 
 tion,' as given in our triangulation of the river: should the Tower 
 be placed there, it will show the light from the lanthorn around 
 three-fourths of the horizon, without the necessity of felling the 
 trees to the northward. 
 
 "In this position, the base of the Tower will be about 250 feet 
 above high water mark, and should the Tower be raised 80 feet 
 to the deck of the Lanthorn (and in my opinion it should not be 
 less) on a base of 25 feet diameter, it will be a prominent land 
 mark, for making the Cape in the day time. 
 
 "The lanthorn or light, which is to be placed on the tower, 
 should be of a power not less than the best Light on Navesink; 
 in other words, a Marine light of the first power. 
 
 "The Tower should be constructed of fire-proof materials, and 
 no wood whatever should be admitted into the construction of the 
 building; as there is at all times much danger of the forest being 
 fired to the northward, which, in such a case, would inevitably 
 destroy the building. 
 
 "From the cove in Baker's Bay, where the materials would be 
 landed, the distance is about 1,000 yards by a path, now greatly 
 obstructed by huge trees which have fallen across it. It must 
 ever be a difficult matter to transport any great amount of bulk 
 or weight to the summit; a good road must first be made. Whether 
 the tower is constructed of wood, iron, or brick, the material must 
 be transported in small parcels. 
 
 "When such a tower as I have contemplated is lighted up by a 
 light of the first power, it will be clearly visible for a distance of 
 nine leagues at sea, from the N. W. by the W. and S. W. to the
 
 The Pacific Coast Survey 271 
 
 south, and by the east for the entire width of the river, and for the 
 same distance up the Columbia. 
 
 "A light on Cape Hancock, or Disappointment, will be of vast 
 importance to the rapidly increasing commerce of Oregon, as it 
 will enable all vessels to approach the coast boldly, and then to 
 maintain their positions on pilot-ground till daylight, when they 
 will at once be taken into port by highly intelligent pilots now 
 fully established there. 
 
 "Very respectfully, sir, I have the honor to be. your ob't serv't, 
 "(Signed) WASHINGTON A. BARTLETT, 
 
 "Lieut. U. S. N., Assistant Coast Survey. 
 "To Professor A. D. Bache, 
 
 "Superintendent U. S. Coast Survey." 
 
 No. 8 is Lieut. Commanding McArthur's report on the 
 establishment of Hghts at "Cape Flattery and New Dungen- 
 ness, Oregon." This report is as follows : 
 
 "U. S. Surveying Schooner Ewing, 
 
 "San Francisco, September 25, 1850. 
 
 "Dear Sir: The portion of your instructions relating to the in- 
 vestigation of the necessity, or otherwise, of light-houses at Cape 
 Flattery and New Dungenness, has been attended to, and I beg to 
 report as follows: 
 
 "I have carefully examined the roadstead of New Dungenness, 
 and find it to be safe and capacious. The holding ground is ex- 
 cellent, and it is well protected from all winds except those from 
 the N. E. ; a quarter from which it seldom or never blows so hard 
 as to endanger shipping. 
 
 "The ingress and egress arc remarkably convenient. 
 
 "A point, two and a fourth miles in length, extends from the 
 main land, and completely shelters the anchorage from the strong 
 and prevalent northwest winds. This point is quite low and nar- 
 row, and not discernible at night. On the extremity of this point, 
 I would recommend a light-house of the first power to be built; 
 the shaft to be not less than 80 feet in height. Tims situated, it 
 would guard navigators against the spit, as well as point out the 
 anchorage. The entrance is entirely clear; but, as the profile of 
 the bottom is so precipitous, I would advise navigators to come to 
 anchor in not less than 10 to 13 fathoms water. 
 
 "A light-house is much needed also at 'Cape Flattery'; and 1 
 would recommend that it be situated on 'Tatoochi island,' a small 
 island almost touching tlie northwest extremity of Cape Flattery. 
 
 "To vessels bound from seaward, a light-house on this island
 
 272 Lewis A. McArthur 
 
 would be of much assistance. It would enable them to enter the 
 straits, when the absence of a light would frequently compel them 
 to remain at sea till daylight. Once inside the straits, vessels are 
 comparatively secure. 
 
 "The advantage of having the light-house situated on the island 
 instead of on the extremity of the Cape is, that it would serve as a 
 guide to vessels seeking Neap or Scarborough's harbor, a small but 
 secure harbor of refuge about four miles inside the straits. Strong 
 contrary currents will cause navigators to seek this little harbor 
 quite frequently. 
 
 "Traffic is very much on the increase in Oregon; and, while it 
 must be admitted that the great increase has been on the Colum- 
 bia river, yet it has also much improved on the Sound. Lumber 
 has become an extensive article of export, and it is quite probable 
 that there is no country on the face of the globe where it is so 
 abundant, so good, and so convenient. 
 
 "It seems to me that the Government should be informed that 
 ships are continually arriving at different points of the Sound to 
 obtain spars and lumber, (they of course take the best and most 
 convenient,) and it might be deemed advisable on the part of the 
 Government to take means to arrest these depredations. I had 
 occasion to witness them, and was called upon by General John 
 Adair, the collector for the district of Oregon, to assist him in 
 enforcing the revenue laws, and arrest even foreign vessels from 
 smuggling and cutting our timber. See his report on the subject to 
 the honorable Secretary of the Treasury. 
 
 I am, very respectfully, &c., truly yours, 
 "(Signed) WM. P. McARTHUR, 
 
 "Lieut. Commanding and Assistant U. S. Coast Survey. 
 
 "To Professor A. D. Bache, 
 
 "Superintendent U. S. Coast Survey, Washington, D. C." 
 
 Among the papers of Lieut. Commanding- McArthur was 
 found a letter apparently addressed to him, and signed by- 
 George Gibbs, dated at Astoria, November 23, 1850. There 
 seems no doubt but that it was written by the pioneer ethnol- 
 ogist of Oregon. It follows : 
 
 "Dear Sir : Mr. Frost forgot to procure from you a power 
 of attorney to sell lots at this place when he was in San Fran- 
 cisco. It is very desirable that some one should possess the 
 power of sale here, as it would take too long to send around to 
 the various owners in case a purchaser appeared. Will you 
 be good enough therefore to forward one and in case you write 
 to Mr. Bartlett, to request a similar power from him. I intend
 
 The Pacific Coast Survey 273 
 
 soon after the steamer is out to prepare some papers which 
 will place the affairs of the property in better order and will 
 advise you of them. When Mr. DeWitt was here I was in 
 some doubt whether Frost had deeded to you the exact amount 
 he intended to. I now propose to divide it into shares, which 
 will be a common divisor of every man's interest, and that 
 stock or scrip be issued accordingly. Please let me know what 
 you think of the proposal, and if you can assent to it on Mr. 
 Bartlett's behalf. If aye, whether I shall issue your scrip to 
 you jointly or severally. Very truly yours, etc., 
 
 George Gibbs. 
 
 "I see a letter in the Pacific News of Oct. 24, signed by a 
 man named Morse, puffing Pacific City in a most preposterous 
 style. He is a person whom Dr. White brought in on the 
 Ocean Bird to lecture up his town throughout Oregon. The 
 letter was written before the animal had ever seen the country. 
 I understand also that another of his new importations, a 
 "Professor Jackman," has written something in a similar vein, 
 but attacking Astoria, and a Weekly Cal. Courier of some- 
 time since had an article signed by Edmonds and Edwards 
 stating that they had piloted in or out over 200 vessels in three 
 years, and that Bakers Bay was the only good harbor. I be- 
 lieve that you yourself know that this statement is false on the 
 face of it, as that number of passages of the bar did not occur 
 previous to White's coming here and that Latty and Reve were 
 the pilots. Now is it worth while to answer these things over 
 two or three signatures, or say a dozen? I have only the 
 Pacific News of the 24th in my possession. If you think that 
 I can procure the other two papers, please send them. Jack- 
 man's article was in the News sometime in October — Edmonds' 
 in the Courier of I believe the same month. It struck me that 
 as there was one responsible or at any rate actual name, it 
 might be time to pounce on Dr. White as a humbug. But you 
 can best judge from your position whether he is effecting any- 
 thing. I have sent by this mail two memorials to Thurston 
 against the removal of the Custom house, and have one on the 
 desk signed by shipmasters and owners." 
 
 In 1876 the United States government built the schooner 
 McArthnr at Mare Island, California, and named her in honor 
 of Lieut. Commanding William Pope McArthur. For the 
 past 39 years the McArthur has been in prnctically continuous 
 service in the work of the Coast and Geodetic Survey on the 
 Pacific Coast. The vessel is 115 feet long and of 220 gross 
 tons, and has long since served her usefulness. In his last
 
 274 Lewis A. McArthur 
 
 annual report, Secretary of Commerce Redfield strongly con- 
 demns the government for requiring men to go to sea in such 
 a ship. 
 
 In 1886, Lieutenant James M. Helm, U. S. N., surveying 
 certain parts of the Alexander archipelago in southeastern 
 Alaska, was in command of the McArthur, and he named 
 McArthur Peak, 2239 feet high, on Kuiu Island, in honor of 
 his vessel, and he also named Port McArthur on the same 
 island for the McArthur. 
 
 The Coast and Geodetic Survey named McArthur Reef, in 
 Sumner Strait, off the mouth of Clarence Strait, in the Alex- 
 ander Archipelago, for the schooner McArthur.
 
 fco
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, LOS ANGELES 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 
 
 This book is DUE on the last date stamped below 
 
 1-/ 
 
 INTERLIBRARY 
 
 JUL 14 vn 
 
 TWO WEEKS FROM 
 NON-RENCWABU 
 
 JUL 2 8 72 
 
 ID 
 URL 
 
 LOAN* 
 
 EWJEOFRECEIPX 
 
 Form L-» 
 25m-10. "41(2401) 
 
 THE LIIix^ARY 
 UMvi.RSiTy OF CALIFORNIA
 
 UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 
 
 111 lli:^ III: ) 
 
 AA 000 527 369 
 
 HERBERT McLEAN EVAN 
 WESTERN AMER 
 
 UNCOLN t, ALLEN 
 Beak Biadui
 
 
 ii;<S 
 
 /tsV-i^ 
 
 '/'^^=/^,■^ 
 
 ■^??^ 
 
 ■•,>.?., 
 
 ,y~:^>¥' 
 
 .^i-i: 
 
 
 >C,'M 
 
 ^:1 
 
 >K'«ft 
 
 ■:!?r^; 
 
 r5^ 
 
 '^■:^ 
 
 ivv.*?* 
 
 w 
 
 ^^i' 
 
 =^0 
 
 i 
 
 3"^' 
 
 'S'^^lt 
 
 
 
 '■•if' 
 
 ■5!> 
 
 ** 
 
 
 V. ^ 
 
 'i\y/A 
 
 ■fi 
 
 <' t*!-.*,^- 
 
 «■•»» K 
 
 •S' 
 
 I 
 
 "nV ■;