5C 
 
 G 
 
 TRANSLATORS PREFACE. ] 
 
 J- HE avidity with which travels into 
 Africa have been read by the public, pro- 
 mises to secure to this work a favourable 
 reception. The travels hitherto published 
 may be said to give merely a glimpse into 
 the interior of that vast continent, and a 
 thousand miles in a straight line from the 
 coast, has been the extremity of every for- 
 mer excursion, while our present author has 
 explored an extent of ten thousand miles 
 through the very heart of the country. 
 Vaillant, Parke, Bruce, Browne, and 
 Sonnini added but little to our knowledge, 
 and after all their efforts, the map of Africa 
 remained still disfigured by a blank space 
 entitled " Parts wholly unknown to Euro- 
 peans." a 2 Through
 
 iv the translator's preface. 
 
 Through this space a path has at last 
 been opened : a German on foot has, with 
 the perseverance characteristic of his coun- 
 trymen, measured the extent of Africa. 
 He has passed through the midst of it, from 
 the Cape of Good Hope to the sea of Mo- 
 rocco. We are by his means made ac- 
 quainted with kingdoms and countries, 
 whose names never before struck our ears. 
 In the kingdom of Haoussa, of which 
 Mr. Parke gives so meagre an account, our 
 traveller resided a considerable time in high 
 favour with the monarch ; he wandered 
 with tribes under the equator, where no 
 steps of a white man had till his time been 
 seen ; and he travelled over the burning de~ 
 sart of Sahara, noted for its monsters, and 
 deemed an impenetrable barrier between 
 the north and middle of Africa. 
 
 The difficulties and dangers to be en- 
 countered in such an expedition may be 
 easily conceived from the relation of the 
 travellers already mentioned, who can 
 scarcely be said to have gone beyond the 
 
 bounds
 
 THE TRANSLATOR S PREFACE^ V 
 
 bounds of civilised humanity, and their 
 path was, comparatively speaking, a turn- 
 pike road to that of our author's. But he 
 seems to have been formed both in mind 
 and body for this enterprise. He was exact- 
 ly the man whom the African Associa- 
 tion would have rejoiced to select for their 
 laudable purposes of exploring unknown 
 regions, and he throws such light upon 
 manners and customs, and proper mode of 
 conduct, and travelling in these countries* 
 as will be highly serviceable to its future 
 projects; indeed,we natter ourselves that the 
 publication of this work in our own lan- 
 guage will be honoured with its highest ap- 
 probation. 
 
 Our author did not visit Africa with a 
 view to discover curious animals or plants ; 
 to form a new system, or extend the limits 
 of one already established: he describes 
 chiefly men and manners, and these not 
 from a cursory view, but from a continued 
 residence in various kingdoms and repub- 
 lics. Sometimes he was in the highest fa- 
 vour with princes, at other times an object 
 of contempt to the lowest of the people. 
 a 3 Sometimes
 
 Vl THE TRANSLATOR^ PREFACE. 
 
 Sometimes he enjoyed all the comforts 
 which the nature of the country admitted, 
 at other times he was exposed to all the 
 miseries which a burning sun and a burning 
 soil could inflicl. Alternately he was a 
 freeman, a servant, or a slave. 
 
 To literary merit our traveller makes no 
 pretensions : he tells a simple artless tale : 
 what he saw, and what he suffered he des- 
 cribes accurately : he takes us with him in 
 his tour, interests us in his feelings, and at 
 every moment rouses us to new objects of 
 curiosity, which he never fails to gratify. 
 If amusement only is desired by the reader, 
 he will here find again realised the tale that 
 caught the ear of Desdemona. 
 
 But though th's would have been a suffi- 
 cient justification for the appearance of the 
 work in an English dress, we have had 
 much higher points in view ; contem- 
 plated in a Moral and Commercial light, 
 thefe Travels hold put to this country very 
 important objefts of enquiry. In the first 
 place indeed we feel with considerable grief 
 
 and
 
 THE TRANSLATOR S PREFACE. Vll 
 
 and shame the reproaches cast on this coun- 
 try, in common with other countries, by the 
 blacks. The name of Christian is every 
 where held in contempt and abhorrence. 
 It is, in the language of a black, the name 
 for every thing which is vile, base, cruel, 
 rapacious, unjust and wicked : and as long 
 as christians debase their character by the 
 abominable wickedness of the Slave Trade, 
 so long is all access barred to the civiliza- 
 tion of Africa, and to the spreading of the 
 religion of Our Saviour among its oppressed 
 and injured inhabitants. To the moralist 
 this is a severe reflection, and the observa- 
 tions on the Slave Trade in this work, must 
 pierce the heart of every Englishman who 
 has the least regard for his religion or his 
 constitution. 
 
 Destroy the Slave Trade, and this work 
 opens to the view new sources of wealth, 
 which avarice itself could scarcely exhaust. 
 A new world is opened for our arts, and 
 will yield in its turn treasures inexhaustible. 
 A factory may, with no great difficulty, be 
 a 4- established
 
 Vlll THE TRANSLATOR S PREFACE. 
 
 established at Haoussa, and commerce be 
 the means of making an Englishman a bles- 
 sing to the country to which he is now a 
 curse. 
 
 In rendering this singular production 
 into English, it has been the great object of 
 the translator to give the unvarnished tale 
 as simply as the author would himself have 
 told it, had he written in our language. 
 The inequalities in the translation fre- 
 quently arise from those of the original, 
 and whenever they are the fault of the tran- 
 slator, will, we hope, be pardoned by the 
 candid, as they arise from causes which it is 
 not necessary to present to the public. In 
 every point of view we can confidently offer 
 the work as the most instructive as well as 
 the most interesting that has hitherto ap- 
 peared on the subject of Africa. 
 
 London, Dec, 13, 1800. 
 
 THE
 
 THE 
 
 idUTHOKS PMEF*/1JE< 
 
 XT was not a vain ambition, of feeing my 
 name added to the lift of the Authors of the 
 prefent times, that e xcited me to publilh 
 this Account of my Travels ; but the defire 
 exprefled by my Friends and Patrons, that 
 I would contribute to the enlargement of 
 our ilock of geographical knowledge, by 
 communicating what I had feen or learned 
 in the diflant regions of Africa. Many 
 perfons, who have made an excursion to 
 the diftance of forty or fifty miles from their 
 homes, favour us with their travels, fpeak 
 of the dangers and difapocintments they 
 
 had
 
 3C AUTHOR S PREFACE. 
 
 had to encounter; defcribe cities and re- 
 gions, which they haftily viewed ; praife 
 and cenfure, as they think proper: And 
 yet their productions are read, and them- 
 felves encouraged to make further re- 
 fearches. Now, as I can, without prefump- 
 tion afTert, that, before me, no German ever 
 undertook fo dangerous a journey into that, 
 for the mod part, yet unexplored land, 
 through the interior parts of which I tra- 
 velled, alone and on foot, for not lefs than 
 fixteen years, I believe I thall not do an 
 unimportant fcrvice to the public, by com- 
 municating my obfervations. Thefe ot> 
 fervations, wear not an air of learning or 
 deep fcience ; but I can with confidence 
 affirm, that I /peak of every thing, as an eye- 
 witness, with truth and fidelity. When 
 I occafionally correct Errors, which have, 
 from the accounts of preceding travel- 
 lers, as Vaillant for example, been adopted 
 as matters of fact ; or when I fupply 
 
 what
 
 AUTHOR S PREFACE. XI 
 
 what is defective in them ; it is done from 
 no other motive than the love of truth. For 
 the miftakes of which I myfelf may have 
 been guilty, I crave the indulgence of the 
 reader. The names of nations, towns, 
 countries, &c. may perhaps be written other- 
 wife than I have written them ; but I wrote 
 them as I heard them pronou need ; for in 
 moft of the countries through which I paf- 
 fed, there were no written documents. To 
 feveral countries and towns I have likewife 
 given the names which they ufually have in 
 maps ; but many of the names are entirely 
 wanting both in charts and in geogra- 
 phical books. In the map accompanying 
 this work, many things are corrected and 
 fupplied. Of the countries of which we al- 
 ready poffefs accurate defcriptions, I have 
 faid little ; that I might not repeat what is 
 generally known. Refpecting fome objects, 
 which could not be well defcribed by words, 
 I have fuperintended the labours of an ar- 
 
 tift,
 
 Xll AUTHOR S PREFACE. 
 
 tift, who has done complete juflice to my 
 inftructions. 
 
 If this account of my travels be favour- 
 ably received by the public, I intend to pub- 
 lilh, if I remain in Europe, as a fequel to 
 it, a more circumftantial and equally ac- 
 curate defcription of the countries and 
 kingdoms which are lead: known, namely 
 Bahahara, Haoufla, &c. 
 
 CHRISTIAN FREDERIC DAMBERGER. 
 
 Joiner, a Native of Scf't**, and now residing at IVittenburg. 
 
 Written during my journey through Saxony , 
 in the month of Auguft, 1800. 

 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 Arrival of the Author in Amfiicrdam Departure for 
 the Cape of Good Hope Hofpitals of the Cape 
 The Author is taken from the Ranks, aud appointed 
 Houfe -Steward to M. Brand Learns the Dutch 
 Language The Motives which induced him to de~ 
 fert Journey toivards the Interior of the Country, 
 and jirfi to Stieleno-liufch Account of the Revenue 
 and Expences of the Dutch Eaft India Company at 
 the Cape - - - page 1 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 The Author commences his Journey into the Interior of 
 the Country He purchafes a new Carabine of the 
 Head-bailiff at Stielens Bufch Powder and Ball he 
 partly receives as a Prejhit, and partly endeavours 
 to procure the like Neceffaries by other Means, and 
 then purfues his Journey At firft he paffes the 
 Night at the Iloujes of fome of the Planters ; but 
 afterwards avoids them, and either takes flielter in 
 the Kraals of the Hottentots, or remains all Night in 
 the open Air, kindling afire that he may deep fecure 
 from the Attacks of Wild Beajis The Author often 
 contradicts the Accounts publijhed by Vaillant, and 
 even maintains that he did not travel through this 
 Part of the Country - 39 
 
 CHAP.
 
 AOO 
 XIV CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 After taking fo me Rcpofe. in a Hottentot Village^ the 
 Author bends his Courfe to the Eaflward, to the Fi/Ii- 
 river, and to take Advantage of the Winter Seafon, 
 the mojl favourable for travelling, he purfues his 
 Journey with increajed Zeal, avoids the Hamlets of 
 the Hottentots and Habitations oj Planters, and quits 
 the Territory of the Company Manners and Cufloms 
 of the Hottentots Le Vaillant is re/uted by the Au- 
 thor, who vifits M. Habrath, a Planter, and at length 
 enters Caffraria on the &gth of March Manners, 
 Cufloms, and Ceremonies of the Caffres The Author 
 in the Hope of meeting with Europeans, undertakes a 
 Journey in Company with twenty -/even Cajfrees to the 
 Sea Coafl, to fearch a French Vejfel which was fhip- 
 wrecked, obtains fome' Booty, and gains by his JuccefT- 
 ful Enterprize the Love and Efleem of the whole Tribe, 
 by whom he is elecled Deputy, or Under-mampa, and 
 entreated to remain with them for Life - 62 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 The Author's Departure from the friendly Caff res to pur- 
 fue his Journey Defriptton of the Dangers and 
 Troubles which he had to encounter He is kindly 
 received by another Horde of Caffres y and afjifls them 
 agamfl the Tamboukins Boundaries of Caffraria 
 and of other neighbouring Parts The Author being 
 robbed of his EffeBs in another Kraal of Caffres, he 
 recovers them by the Interpojition of the Chief with 
 the Exception of the Carabine, which had been broken 
 in Pieces by a Caff re Account of a Jamatian Kraal, 
 and of their Cufloms and Manners - - 103 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 - 
 The Author leaves the Territory of the J amatians, and 
 goes to that of the Muhotians, where he is treated at 
 frjl with feverity, but on every Occa/ion favoured by 
 the Women The Bodies of five murdered Europeans 
 are fhezvn him He is in Danger of becoming the Vic- 
 tim
 
 CONTENTS. XV 
 
 tim of unnatural Lull Makes his Efcape, and arrives 
 at another Kraal of the Muhotivns, whence h* is freely 
 fuffered to depart Arrives at the Mucumbo-river, 
 arid the Village of the Kamtarians Defcription of 
 that Nation, their Charatler, Cufloms, Manners, Lan_ 
 guage t &c. - - - 147 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Account of the warlike Cufloms of the Kamtarians 
 Departure from the Kingdom ofBiri Arrival at Bit. 
 hagari, the first Town in that Kingdom National pe- 
 culiarities and mode of Living of the Inhabitants 
 The Author meets with a kind reception Profecu- 
 tion of his Journey on the Banks of the Ma.kumbo . 
 Charatler oj the Gohawanians Defcription of the 
 Kingdom of Mataman National Charatler, Man- 
 ners, and Cujioms of the Inhabitants Journey to 
 the chief Town fSeenhofaJ The Author is admitted 
 into the Retinue of the King Eff.;cls his efcape, as 
 he is in danger of being fold for a Slave Receives a 
 wound in his flight ; an inflammation takes place in 
 his Foot, which is increafed by cruel treatment from 
 two Inhabitants of Drofah, but is cured by one of 
 the Inhabitants - \6j 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Hiflory of the Seegerines National Charatler of that 
 People The Author arrives hi the first of the Seege- 
 rines called Murcofah On the Slave Trade Account 
 of a Tiger Hunt Profecution of the Journey The 
 Author is carried as a Prijoner into the Province of 
 Porquhomat, called in the Maps Ofilla : but is zoeil 
 treated The Author is ordered, in company with other 
 men, to march to the Frontiers to attack an hoflile 
 trader in Slaves with a large tranfport of Negroes; 
 he is. taken Pnfoner, and labouring under great diffi- 
 
 . culiies, is conducled lo the SoviansDefcription ,of 
 this Nation, which bears a clofe rejemblance to the 
 Inhabitants of Angola Difference in point oj .Lan- 
 guage The Author is made a cow-herd in thefervice 
 1 of
 
 xvi CONTENTS. 
 
 ef the Mani-The fourth Wife of the Mani entertains 
 4/1 illicit pa/fion for him He rfcapes from kerfnares 
 by flight to Angola -Account of that Kingdom -its 
 IL fluty, Boundaries^ and Produce- On the King, the 
 zeal Confutation, Religion, Mznners, Cufioms, 
 an { National Drefs- The Author is robbed of his 
 M ' y and Journal by an Eaanga, (Judge) and is 
 7n . - viojl imminent danger oflqfingnisLifc; but is 
 liberated through the King's Justice and Humanity 
 Dtfcnption of the Town of Makakak y the rcfidence of 
 the King on the River Coanza - - 192 
 
 CHAP. VIII * 
 
 Departure of the Author. The King makes him Pre- 
 sents on taking leave, and orders two Attendants to 
 conduct him on his Journey northwards by the Vil- 
 lage if M I the Town of Metbekaba Defcrip- 
 ticrh and liijioiy of the Azaborans, of the Villages 
 Mahiny, and Emxcaliut y and of the Copra ferpents, 
 with wktili thry abound The Village Mohakam, its 
 Situation on the Borders of the former Kingdom of 
 Loango, its geographical Situation and Hfory De- 
 fcnption of the prefent State oj the Country, its Pro- 
 . dace, Inhabitants, and Trade P^ffage over the River 
 Bambo to the Robber -Villages, IVodoniha and Ogho 
 At the latter the Author gams a Companion, a Miner, 
 who was carrying Metal to Malemba, with whom he 
 (rax/els a Day and a halfHiflory and Defcription of 
 Malemba The Author is here very jlr icily examined, 
 and brought to the King, who makes him firjl a Ser- 
 vant, then a Page /if the Body ; buffoon after he falls 
 tnto tfjfgrace, and is condemned to Slavery, from 
 which he - [capes, and pojjls over to the Jagans ' 2$j 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 itiflory and Drfription of the Jagans- Their Manners, 
 
 I jloms. natii >ia.' Character Defcription of the 
 
 War-buff loes, I r-bottl'S made of Elephants* 
 
 Entrails Journey ove> the Akaf Mountains, 
 
 h the City Grab, b\ the frontier Village 
 
 VViihhala, in the 7< nfory of Mugari (Minto)- 
 
 - 1 ' ' 
 
 +. lu ri:c or.-m.;) ;,,..<. ;% therm chrp'cr of tho second volume ; the 
 < n punted cpfOglcte 111 one vviumc to reduce the cx- 
 fcaLC' Id M.' ; Tchascr. 
 
 Def
 
 CONTENTS. XVli 
 
 I)efcription of it and its Inhabitants - Journey 
 through the thick Wood of a mountainous Country ', to 
 the Village Sowoh'm-Hiflory and Defcription of the 
 Kingdom of Ma /fi and Mamkam the Metropolis- The 
 little Hamlets, Muhotahu, whofe Inhabitants subfifl 
 by Robbery -Journey through the. Villages, Domch, 
 Bathym, and Iiata, to the Mathians- Defcription of 
 this Nation- --Kingdom of Juhkodego, or Monoemu- 
 gi, its Situation, limits, Hiflory, and Defcription 
 Two different Origins of its Inhabitants- Form of 
 Government, Religion^ Manners, and Cu/toms Jour- 
 ney over Axvakana, the Lake and City of Zambre- De- 
 fcription of this City and its Royal Palace Charac- 
 ter of the King-Drefs of the Officers- The Author 
 repairs a Watch for the King, is taken into Favour, 
 and Travels with him to the Lake of Zambre Im- 
 provement of Maps- Departure from Zambre -The 
 Author goes over the Akmaho Mountains, through 
 Serra, Mehar, and Jelloh, Etaham, Mufs, Himogu, 
 Mojatu and Gohamy, over the Border Mountains, 
 through Paatam and Kohlogom, the lafl Village in 
 this Kingdom - - - - 296 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Arrival of the Author at the Firfl Border -huts of the 
 Moobatans---llijiory and Defcription of the Nation 
 On Account of the rainy Seajon, the Author was 
 compelled tojlay, under difagreeable circumjlances^ 
 in the Tillage of Mytob, when he travelled with 
 fonie Buffalo-drivers from the Territory of MofJ'e- 
 guejos, on the Eaft-jide of the Kingdom of Monoe- 
 mugi, who were going into the Kingdom of Otoba, 
 over the River Druma, and by the Border-village 
 Nahvat Meets an Army of Kinonians, feparates 
 from his Company, afeends a great Mountain, and 
 comes to the Mophans, who live in Holes. Here he is 
 well received, and prefented to the King Dejcrip- 
 tion of this Nation, their Manners, Cuftoms, Country, 
 and Confiitution, their King, their Religion, and. 
 various remarkable Productions Geographical cor- 
 rections The Author pur pofes to travel in a Cara- 
 van to Guinea, and to go back to Europe Journey 
 through the Villages of Ohgothen, Uhwoh,and Ma 
 toh, to Ocymoroh, the King's Rejidence The Av- 
 b thor
 
 via CONTENTS. 
 
 t hoVii pUced among the King's .Slaves, e/'capes sver 
 fundi) frcjrrts, afeends the Mountains of the Moon, 
 andcotkestetkrWomahens - - 343 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 J he Author's Arrival among the WomaJianiansS'om' 
 Account of the fe People They receive him kindly, 
 end entertain him with Tyger'-s flesh He proceeds on 
 his Jdurvey through Day ham ta, northward to the 
 ' Kingdom ofWohjagtamfn this part of his Journey 
 ht falls in with the free and wandering Negroes on 
 the Borders, who are distinguished by the' Name of 
 TaomuhSome Account of them, and of the Arts 
 they praftisr The Author travels in company with 
 them to their Habitations on the Borders of Baha- 
 hara Short Uiftory of their Nation On the \9th 
 of November he goes with their Caravan for Wan- 
 gar^a, by the way of Wadgain, Ohwuto, Yomy, Re. 
 He falls fiek by the way, is unable to keep up with 
 the Caravan, and remains behind Speedily recover- 
 ing, he travels by Yomy baok to Yandoka and Baha- 
 
 haraln the last of these places, he is for a fhort 
 time detained as j Slave; but mending the King's 
 Arms, he is Jet at Liberty , and with a pafs from 
 the King goes to Rahoratho Defer iption of that 
 Country and of its Capital City - - .379 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Journey of the Author from Kahoratho through the. 
 Tillages Abatamy, Sahmedi, and a Country without 
 Water -De) 'enption of 'tin: Rijong fruit Arrival of 
 the Author at the fii ft Border- village of the King- 
 dom 'oflJoKjtd, where he is very ill -treated by the 
 Samtygoelys, a Nation of Robbers, one of whom, 
 however, protects him, and Jets, him forward to. the. 
 Gainbouru, or Rircer Niger--The Author comes to 
 the Tillage Ccmgao, whfri he is Jcized and conveyed 
 to HouJ/a, the Metropolis At liovjj'a he is condutt- 
 d to the King, and tuh'VH tiy him.:into. the. Royal 
 Service Some envious Perj'ons try to ruin him in 
 the King's Favour ; but he strengthens himjelf in 
 his Friendship, by performing fame Carpenter's and 
 Smith's Work Remarkable Example of the King's 
 
 great
 
 CONTENTS. XIX 
 
 great Love of JuCtice, by which the Author efcapes 
 from Danger By his Acquaintance in the Town, 
 the Author gains Information rejpecling the neigh- 
 bouring Nations, and makes himj't If acquainted with 
 the Road to Great Barbary Description of the War 
 between the King of HouJJ'a and the King of Wan- 
 garaTheHoufanspreJsontoWangara, the Me- 
 tropolis, and take it The Author is an Eye-witnefs 
 of the' Battle Conditions of Peace Dejcription of 
 the City of Wangara Return to Hoiif'a The Au- 
 thor efcapes out of the Kingdom, and turns towards 
 the Kingdom of Feene, which is only at a dijlance of 
 three days journey and a quarter An ample De- 
 jcription of Houjja, and the Royal Rejidence Tke 
 
 Author travels as a Gunfmith, through the Villages of 
 Jelly and Pugohjity to Feene, where he repairs 
 arms, for which he is xcell maintained and paid / 
 here he lives jix Months very happily, and then tra- 
 vels to Sille xvith Infiruments, Cloaihs, and Provi- 
 jions, being furnished with Letters of Recommenda- 
 tion in a f mall caravan of the Country - 403 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 Dejcription of the Town of Feene, and fur rounding Ter- 
 ritory ' Correction of the Narrative of Mungo Park 
 The Author proceeds from Feene to Nahga, where 
 he takes flipping, and Jails on tke River by Mttatak and 
 Parafiet, to Sitlc Description of the Town of Sille - 
 from this Place the Author proceeds with a, cara- 
 van to Muta, Saatata, and the Sanoho or Gold 
 Mountain, on the Border of the Kingdom of Ny-- 
 tokka, to the Siegrnartons, a free Tribe, inhabiting 
 caves Dejcription of the Sandy Defert-^-The Com- 
 pany proceed to the Arabs, living in Huts, and to the 
 Brave Mukojadenes, a fir on g and handfome race of 
 People, and one attached, but without fuffer in g any 
 detriment, by tke Caroates Remarks . caqcerriing 
 that Lxjt Nation. On the <i\tk of lS\ay the Caravan a/- 
 
 b 2 cended 
 
 . %&%
 
 XX CONTENTS. 
 
 cended a great hill : From the ztfh to the %otk the 
 continue their Journey through the Sandy Defart, On 
 ike \ft of June they arrive at a Village, in the Kingdom 
 ofWatomrth, and there reft for a Day to refrejli them, 
 selves On the tfh of June the Caravan crofses over a 
 Chain of Mountains, and fwim with difficulty through 
 the Rivrr Sampi, which is greatly fwoilcn. They then 
 pafs over a Sandy Plain, and Arrive on the Confines of 
 the Kingdom of Tamohata or Targa. They arc at- 
 tacked by a MoorifJi Horde, lofe two men and a Camel, 
 but reach, at lafl, the Mountains bounding the Deftrt 
 cfSahara . . _ _ 4 . 5 , 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 Pcfcriptiori of various Inhabitants of the Desert of Sa- 
 hara The Caravan comes to the Border-village .of 
 MathhyMungo Park's exaggerated Praifes of the 
 Border- Inhabitants corretled Account of the Inha- 
 bitants of Billtdulgerid, their Trade Of the Mufjul- 
 men, their Manners and Cujloms, National Characler, 
 and Religion The Caravan coma to the village, of 
 Na\kakoh, to the Hamlets of Hatynay, and to the lit- 
 tle Town of Evyfack, where the Author falls ill of a 
 Fever, and is left behind by the Caravan The 
 Author lodges in the next Village, as a Patient, 
 with a Jew, and upon his Recovery travels onward 
 with fome Moors on Ilorfeback, through the Lands of 
 the Prince Akumba Mahomet, to Tegorarin, where the 
 Moors fell him to a Slave-dealer, who employs him as 
 a Joiner, and conveys him, on the zotk of February, 
 1790, with four young female Slaves, to Amozab, and 
 sells him to a Mussulman Journey to Mezzabath De- 
 scription of that Town The Author is sold to a Native 
 
 who, four Months after, sells him to a Trader from 
 Morocco, with whose Caravan he travels to Morocco. 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Departure of the Caravan from Mezzabath to 
 Morocco. Between the Cozul Mountains and 
 the River Tegtat, the Caravan is attached by a 
 Band of roving Arabs ; who kill four Slaves 
 and three Camels, but are vanquijhed and put to
 
 CONTENTS. XXI 
 
 flight. The Caravan rejts two days at Zali- 
 tamy, a Tripoline' Village. The Iunahy, or 
 Rainy Mountains. Arrives at Azafia. De- 
 scription of the Kingdom of Morocco. Account 
 of the People, of the Manners, Cuftoms, Reli- 
 gion, and Form of Government of the Empire, 
 and of the City of Azqfia.- The Author is treat- 
 ed kindly by his Mafter, who dijlinguifhes him 
 from other Slaves. lie is redeemed from Slavery 
 by a private Agent of the French Republic, in 
 the year 1796, in confequence of the Repre- 
 fentation of his Cafe made by the Captain of a 
 Dutch Ship, with whom he embarks for Hol- 
 land -. h 510 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 Voyage from Morocco to Holland. The Vejfel 
 meets with two heavy Gales; lofes her Fore- 
 majl, but the Damage is repaired. Is detained 
 by an Englifa Frigate. The Author is at- 
 tacked by a Fever. The Ve/J'el arrives in the 
 Texel.The Author proceeds to Amjierdam in 
 a J mailer Vejfel ; on his Arrival in that City, 
 is arrejled, and detained in Prifon until the 
 2d of May, when he is fentenced to ferve two 
 Years in a Dutch Regiment. A Captain of a 
 Frufjian Ship, from Dantzic, protects him., arid 
 obtains his Difcharge. With this Captain, the 
 Author fets fail, and after a profperotis Voyage 
 of eighteen Days, arrives at Dantzic. His 
 Friend procures him a Pa ([port, by means of 
 which he returns to his native City 529 
 
 Construction of the Map - - - 557 

 
 ERRATA, 
 which the Reader is requelted to correct with the pen. 
 
 Page Line 
 16 13 for choose rw*/ chose. 
 
 32 J// /<r r - dele the whole line in a few copies and sub- 
 
 iiitutc " The graziers are obliged to deliver whatever" 
 44 AW. According to Hutton's Mathematical Diction- 
 ary the German mile contains 4000 geometrical paces, 
 and the Engliflx 1200; so that their proportion is as ten 
 to three; or, in other words, a German mde is three 
 miles one-third Englilh. 
 45 10 lor calebaih read calabash. 
 
 J I - tinder-bov read tinder-box. 
 18 dele Here, 
 
 18 of I he note, for of gourd read of* gourd. 
 66 4 for truii read touch. 
 
 J>3 24 - Arica read Africa. 
 
 295 3 - mode read made. 
 
 338 25 - of read and. 
 
 360 J - accordingly read exceedingly. 
 
 N. B. In the proper names, the orthography of the original 
 has, in general, been preserved ; but, in a few, in which 
 there previoufly exifted an eftablifhed orthography, both 
 have been occasionally adopted, .as, Haoufla, or Houlfa ; 
 Tambuko, or Tombuctoo \ Sahara, or Zahara, &c. &c. 
 
 DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. 
 
 The Author in Caffraria to face the title. 
 
 The map - - I 
 
 A man and woman of Bahahara - - 38 + 
 
 A Moor in the Desert of Sahara - - 484 
 
 N. B. Tissue-paper should be placed before the coloured 
 
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 INTERIOR. OF AFRICA. J 
 
 received orders to hold myfelf in readinefs to de- 
 part in a fliort time for Batavia, in the Ihip called 
 the Morning Star. My new friends were to fail 
 in the fame lhip : the agent of the Company paid 
 me 42 Dutch guildres bounty-money, with which 
 I purchafed a cheft, tobacco, tea, coffee, cloaths, 
 % &c. My hoft very ofEcioufly offered me his fer* 
 vices to aflift me in buying thefe articles ; and his 
 feemingly honeft and upright behaviour induced 
 me to place entire confidence in him 5 but four- 
 teen days after, when we were ready to go on 
 board the fhip, he prefented to me a bill amounting 
 to 1 00 livres. Being deftitute of money, I was 
 under the neceffity to affign over to him a part of 
 my future pay. On the 16th of June we em- 
 barked, cheared by the found of mufie on board 
 our fhip, which was a three-decker, and lay before 
 Herfort-Sluis : here we found every thing ready 
 for our departure, and On the 21ft we were able 
 to fet fail. Our commanders were, Captain Gray, 
 a native of Brabant j the chief-mate, Volkers, a 
 Hollander ; the fecond-mate, Rindolfi, an Italian ; 
 and the ailiftant fteerfman, Koch, a native of 
 Konigiberg. The whole crew, including the fol- 
 diers, confided of three hundred and fixty men, 
 one half of whom were Germans. As a fupply 
 of frelh provifions, twenty young oxen, twenty* 
 four hogs, forty Iheep, feventy fowls, and thirty 
 
 B 2 pair
 
 4 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 pair of pigeons, had been put on board. Three 
 days before our departure three other Eaft India 
 fhips had failed ; and the Ileuftcrfpcuth, a three- 
 decker, failed along with us. On the 29th we 
 had reached the Spanifti leas ; on the ninth of July 
 a ftorni overtook us, and we loft two of our 
 malts, but did not fuffer any conliderable damage 
 belides. We now proceeded fomewhat flower, 
 and did not arrive at St. Jago till the 1 6th : here 
 we might have landed and refitted, but our cap- 
 tain was unwilling to feparate from the other 
 fliips, and was perhaps likewife loth to pay the 
 anchorage-money, amounting to two hundred 
 guildres ; and therefore we continued to fail with 
 jury-mafts. On the fourth of Augult we pined 
 the line. Old experienced feamen alfured us, that 
 the heat was not at this time fo great as when they 
 patted it before. Difeafes now began to prevail 
 among the crew : on the 20th of Auguft three had 
 already died, and one hundred and twenty-one 
 were lick, moft of them being attacked with the 
 feurvy and a malignant fever. I too had a fevere 
 attack of die fcurvy ; but foon began to recover. 
 On the 1 oth of September we efpied the Cape of 
 Good Hope, and came to anchor on the 21ft. It 
 was with much difficulty that our captain obtained 
 permiuion to continue in the road ; as the phy- 
 iicians of the Cape maintained that we had an in- 
 fectious
 
 iNTKRIOR. OF AFRICA, jf 
 
 fectious dilcalc on board, and therefore ought to 
 land at the Ryc-lfland, Which is nine miles diftant 
 from the Cape. We actually lay two days at an- 
 chor before frefh provifions were allowed to be 
 brought to us from the town ; and had not our 
 captain ventured to go on more without leave, and 
 reprefented to the governor the urgent neceflity 
 of affording us fome relief, we mould probably 
 have buffered much inconvenience and diftrefs, 
 though fo near land. Now, however, they fent us 
 a Sufficient fupply of refreshments, and even re^ 
 ceived our fick into an hofpital, I myfelf was 
 ordered to be taken to the hofpital, having been a 
 fecond time attacked by the fcurvy : as foon as 
 we reached the fhore, we were carried by the 
 Company's Haves in chairs to the hofpital. The 
 number of the fick brought from the fhip amounted 
 to eighty-four : here they likewife interred two, 
 who had died the preceding day before we came 
 to an anchor. 
 
 The old failors had indeed frequently given us a 
 melancholy account of the wretched treatment of 
 the lick in the hofpitals at the Cape ; but we found 
 not only that, but every thing elfe even worfe than, 
 we had expected. On being received into the hof- 
 pital each of us was allowed a coarfe woollen co- 
 verlid fuch as are ufed for horfes, which fwarmed 
 
 B 3 with
 
 6 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 with vermin ; and a wretched matrafs, fluffed 
 with woo^ to lie on. Our chefts and hammocks 
 they depofited in a ftorehoufe, but gave themfelves 
 no further concern, whether or not they were 
 fafe there. I frequently obferved thofe who had 
 in part recovered their ftrength, flipping into this 
 ftorehoufe to fetch fomething out of their chefts ; 
 but they found them either empty, or perhaps va 
 nifliad altogether, The attendants themfelves ge- 
 nerally commit thefe thefts : if any one makes an 
 application to them concerning his property, they 
 anfwer that the cheft had perhaps been carried by 
 miftake to another place, and will be found there j 
 found however it is not. If the lofer, at laft, in- 
 fifts on having his property produced and reftored 
 to him, inquiries are indeed made about it, but al- 
 ways without fuccefs : nay, he even runs the rifk of 
 being rewarded only with ttl ufege for the pains he 
 takes to recover his loft property ; for the atten- 
 dants, when hard pufhed, carry their effrontery 
 fo far, as to maintain that their accufer had not 
 brought a cheft with him from the fhip, and onty 
 endeavoured in this roguifh and fradulent manner. 
 to obtain one. 
 
 Each qt the fick is, without diftinction, allowed 
 twelve ounces of bread, half a pound of meat, and 
 a pint of barley or rice broth ; j die attendants take 
 
 for
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 7 
 
 for themfelves the portion of fuch as from weak- 
 nefs are able to eat little or nothing : thofe who are 
 reduced to extreme weaknefs live almoft entirely 
 upon tea. If the patient be fo far reftored, as to 
 require only better food and frefh air to effect, a 
 perfect cure, the enjoyment thereof is frequently 
 denied him ; and he only is allowed more li- 
 l)erty, when he is able to bribe the attendants. The 
 diet is the fame throughout the year, the only va- 
 riation being with refpecl to the flefli-meat ; viz. 
 mutton four times, and beef three times a week ; 
 but thefe are of a very bad quality, and fometimes 
 quite uneatable, appearing^ quite black from its 
 having been cooked in iron pots. Three times a. 
 day the phyficians,* accompanied by two of the 
 
 attendants, 
 
 * During my ftay here, three phyficians attended the fick in 
 the hofpital : the name of the firlt was Madens, an Alfacian. 
 This man had never iludied medicine, and perhaps never had 
 a book in his hand, from which he could derive medical 
 knowledge : in a word he was a moft ignorant empiric. Hft 
 had been a considerable time fervant to a phyfician in Cape- 
 town, into the favour of whole wife he found means to 
 ingratiate himfelf, and married her after his mafter's death. 
 As this lady poflefTed wealth and iufiuence, he received per- 
 miffion to cure wounds and external fores and difeafes ; he 
 likewife made fome trials on flaves to cure internal diforders, 
 and it fo chanced that they recovered. This fuccefs procured 
 him the place of an affiftant at the hoipitai ; and in the courfe 
 
 B 4 of
 
 8 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 attendants, and by a furgeon or apothecary and 
 two Haves, who carry the medicines, go their 
 rounds, and enquire into the ftate of the lick. Ac- 
 cording to the fymptoms and the anfwers of the 
 patient, they prefcribe a medicine, which is im- 
 mediately adminiftered by the apothecary ; but 
 herein much irregularity takes place ; for as the 
 apothecary willies immediately again to rejoin the 
 phyficians, to receive their orders refpecting other 
 patients, it often happens that in his hurry he 
 gives a wrong medicine, or perhaps none at all. 
 When the phyficians are gone, patients, who had 
 been thus forgotten, fometimes apply to the at- 
 tendants, who then adminifter fome fort of medi- 
 cine, very rarely that which the phyficians had pre- 
 ferred, but a dofe of whatever they firft lay their 
 hands on. In the evening a pfalm is read by a 
 Calvinifl minifter, and a ftanza of a hymn fung in 
 every ward of the hofpital. If any one of the fick 
 
 of time he was appointed one of the phyficians, although he 
 was entirely deftitute of medical knowledge and flail ; he was 
 at laft promoted to the rank of firft phyfician. The fecond 
 phyfician was named Dampfie, a native of Switzerland, and 
 equally deftitute of medical fkill. The third was Mader, a na- 
 tive cf r.rlangen, where he had acquired fome knowledge of 
 his profeffion ; and this latter joined to his fkill a benevolent 
 heart. But he feldom came to the hofpital, having a great 
 pf bulinelib as an accoucheur,
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 9 
 
 die, hdis laid in the fame ftate he died in, clothed 
 or nak ed, upon a bier covered with cloth, and car- 
 ried away by four flaves, who have orders to bury 
 him : but as no overfeer goes along with them, it 
 often happens that they throw the corpfe either 
 among bufhes or into a ditch to fave themfelves 
 the trouble of digging a grave. Thofe who reco- 
 ver, muft either do duty at the guard-houfe,* or if' 
 any Dutch fliip happens to be at anchor, they are 
 
 * A long building on the ou'ifide of the fort, where there are . 
 twenty foldiers, two non-.co.uimiffion.ed officers, twelve ca- 
 noneers, and a bombardeer on guard. They are placed there 
 chiefly for the purpoie of keeping a proper and neceflary watch 
 over another adjoining building - , in which thofe diicharged 
 from the hofpital are maintained,, till fhips arrive to carry them 
 farther. But I have feen perfons there, who had jufr. come 
 from the hofpitals, treated like the flaves, and forced to drag 
 the cart and mend the roads; yet their diet was very bad, and 
 if they teemed to be remifs in their work, the corporals, under 
 whole fupeiintendance they were, fl:rupled not to inflict blows 
 upon them. I know that the Eaft India Company had ordered 
 better food and treatment to fuch perfons : but it is to blame 
 that it does not demand a ftricter account from the chief offi- 
 cers at the Cape. Schall, the officer who had the command 
 over this houfe of reception for convalefcents, was a good ho- 
 neft man : but he was not made acquainted with the many 
 acts of injuftice committed here ; eipecially as it was' not cuf- 
 tomary for him to vifit the place himfclf, trufting to the reports 
 brought him, which we*e drawn, up by thofe interelted in con- 
 cealing the abules, 
 
 put
 
 JO TRAVT.Ls TN THE 
 
 put on board to be conveyed to their place at <k~ 
 tination. I lay four weeks in the hofpital, \\a% 
 then removed to the guard-houk, and was, after 
 fourteen days, felected by Mr. Brand, and taken 
 to the poft over which he had the command, 
 in Falfe-Bay,* There I remained a year, and had 
 various kinds of labour to execute, and among 
 others the following : If mips arrived, I aflifted in 
 loading and unloading them ; when the fhips were 
 gone, I was obliged to cut wood in the mountains, 
 to procure ftones from the rocks, anci the like. 
 But all this did not laft long ; I was promoted to 
 another poft, on the following occafion. My maf- 
 ter's houfe-fteward, Rapeh by name, a taylor, and 
 native of Bremen, an honeft worthy man, but 
 given to drunkennefs, had once fo intoxicated 
 himfelf, that he was utterly incapable of execut- 
 ing the duties of his office ; which confuted in 
 
 * At FaJfe-bay there are confiderable buildings. M. Vailr 
 lant has given us a full and accurate defcription of thefe and 
 the famuitkling country. Twenty-eight foldiers and feveral 
 feaint-n keep guard, under the command of one ferjeant and two 
 corporals. The corporals at that time were Helmer, a Hano- 
 verian ; and Coiky, a Dutchman : the ferjeant's name was 
 Scbcnko, and he was a a native of Germany. M. Brand, mv 
 mafler, had the fupcrlr. tendance over the whole port, and held 
 here the rank of a captain; and he wqs likewife in the town, 
 prclidcnt of the council of burghers. 
 
 attending
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. II 
 
 attending upon the foreign guefts: and at that 
 time there happened to be a great deal to do, as 
 fome Englifh fliip lay at anchor, and the officers 
 had come ailiore to my mailer's houfe. His fon 
 accordingly fetched me away from my work, and 
 I was appointed hpufe-fteward in the flead of ho- 
 ned Rapeh, who had been already fix years in the 
 family. I was but badly qualified for my new em- 
 ployment : as I knew no other language but my 
 mother-tongue, and therefore was not able to con- 
 verfe with the ftrangers, or to underftand them 
 when they called for any thing. Herein my mat- 
 ter's fon generally affifled me, and by degrees I 
 learned many phrafes of other languages. I had 
 executed the duties of my office almofl a whole 
 year, to the entire fatisfaction of my mailer and 
 his children ) but the miflrefs of the houfe was not 
 pleafed with me, becaufe I was a man of few words; 
 {he therefore on every occafion endeavoured to 
 throw obflacles in my way ; and even when I was 
 fitting quietly in my chamber, often faid to her 
 huiband: " The German is certainly picking the 
 vermin from his Hurt, as he is fo Hill in his cham- 
 ber : Manus (fo me called my predeceffor Rapeh, 
 his chriflian name being Hermannus) was a much, 
 better man; for he was at leaft lively and convert- 
 ible. "-Such fpeeches caufed me much vexation, 
 *ir d I fpoke thereof to my mailer's fon : but he as 
 
 well
 
 12 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 well as his father advifed me not to make myfelf 
 uneafy on that account. My matter had a houfe 
 in Cape-town, whither he now removed, it being 
 the feafon of the year when no fhips arrive in 
 Falfe-bay ; and he took his whole family and me 
 likewife along with him. Here a feparate apart- 
 ment Was afligned mc ; and as I had very little do- 
 meftic employment, my matter gave me Dutch 
 copies, that 1 might cxercifc myfelf in writing. 
 His fon acted the part of tutor, and corrected my 
 errors. By thefe means I not only learned the 
 firft elements of writing, but likewife acquired a 
 more intimate acquaintance with the Dutch lan- 
 guage. My matter exprefled great fatisfaction at 
 my progrefs, and exhorted me to continue thefe 
 exercifes, that on fome future occafion he might 
 be able to recommend me to a profitable place. In 
 the fequel, however, I found that he did not fulfil 
 his promife ; and on no other account but be- 
 caufe the miftrefs of the houfe was inimical to me. 
 My matter had a great deal of bufinefs to tranfacr. : 
 whatever was imported or exported patted 
 through his hands ; he was paymafter of the 
 troops ftationed here ; had the charge of forward- 
 ing the goods to other countries -and quarters of 
 the globe ; and was in a manner the agent of the 
 land-owners and color.ifts with refpect to the fo- 
 reign articles they purchafed and the products 
 
 they
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 13 
 
 they fold. He kept two clerks, who were often 
 obliged to work night and day, when many fhips 
 lay in the road ; and he placed me in the count- 
 ing-houfe as an afliftant to them, to -dictate to 
 them the accounts and lifts which they were co- 
 pying. I had now been two years in the fervice 
 of this family, and was on the whole fatisned with 
 my lot. I laid hold of every opportunity to in^ 
 creafe my ftock of knowledge and cultivate my 
 underftanding : this induced my mafter to com- 
 mit to me feveral affairs, which he ufed to execute 
 himfelf: he gave me feveral fmall accounts to 
 write out, and my performance met with his ap*- 
 probation ; nay, he even ordered me feveral times 
 to diftribute in the magazines of the Company the 
 monthly rations to the fervants of the Company, 
 and to deliver to them rice, flour, cotton, and 
 the like ; and I had the good fortune to commit 
 no miftake. 
 
 My mailer poffefTed an eftate* in the country, at 
 the diftance of three day's journey from the Cape, 
 on the road to the warm baths ; this eftate he vi- 
 fited every year for a few weeks, to make regu- 
 
 * My matter's fon was the oftenfiblc poiTeflbr of this eftate ; 
 for a fervant of the Company is allowed only to have a houie 
 at Cape-town, but no eftate in the country. 
 
 Jations
 
 *4 TRAVELS tNntHE 
 
 fations for the future, and to give orders relative 
 to the management of the farm to Ms fteward; 
 Barenfntahl by name, a native of the bifhoprick 
 cf Munfler, a rude feverc man, who before my 
 arrival at the Cape had been accufed of murder; 
 I {hould molt willingly have gone along with my 
 mafter ; but as, befides his two eldeft daughters 
 and Lieutenant Miiller,* his fon likewife accom* 
 panied him, I was obliged to remain at the Cape, 
 to fuperintend various affairs, to copy fome ac- 
 counts, and, in cafe he {hould not return before 
 the commencement of the following month, to 
 take charge of the diftribution of the rations in the 
 Company's magazines,. I foreboded that I {hould 
 not have many chearful hours during his abfence ; 
 and as I expected, fo it happened. Even on 
 the firft day of the departure of my mafter, I had 
 a quarrel with my miftrefs : he had confided 
 to my care the keys of his cabinet, with the ex- 
 prefs command, that whenever his wife or the 
 clerks went thither, I fhould accompany them. 
 But my miftrefs infifted that I mould give her the 
 keys, and remain in my own apartment. I replied* 
 that I muft obey the orders of my mafter, and 
 attend her to the cabinet. This anfwer roufed her 
 
 - - i ... . , 
 
 He was a native of the bifhoprick of Wurzburgh, and had 
 fcrved ao apprenticeship ta a butcher. 
 
 anger
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. I J 
 
 anger to the higheft degree ; flic furioufly {hatched 
 the keys out of my hands, and abufed me in terms 
 that could have been expected to flow only from 
 the mouth of the loweft flave-wench. I bore it 
 all patiently, and returned to my apartment, to 
 confrder what I mould now do. At laft I came to 
 a refolution to leave the houfe, and to repair as 
 fpeediry as poffible to my mafter in the country. 
 Juft as I was on the point of putting it in execu- 
 tion, my matter's third daughter, whofe name was 
 Kate, came to me. When I had informed her of 
 what had happened, and of my determination to 
 go to the country, me earneftly begged me to re- 
 main ; and at the fame time told me, that if I 
 would come to the Company's garden in the even- 
 ing, flie would wait for me there, as fhe wifhed to 
 have fome converfation with me about affairs of 
 importance. 
 
 She was fourteen years of age, pretty, and well- 
 grown ; was fond of being employed where I 
 was, and took great pleafure in hearing the Ger-, 
 man language. After dinner I went to the fort to 
 wait upon Major Blumer,* an intimate friend of 
 my mafter, and related to him how I had been 
 treated : he advifed me to have patience, and of- 
 
 * By birth a Heffian, an <1 formerly a baker. 
 
 fered,
 
 l6 TRAVELS IN 
 
 fered, in cafe I fhould meet witfi any farth* ir ill 
 ufage, to give me a lodging at his own houf'e till 
 the return of my matter. At four o'clock I re- 
 paired to the Com nan y's garden, to lean* from 
 little Kate what affairs of importance flic had to 
 communicate to me. I found her at the entrance, 
 flie laid hold of my arm, and we walked about the 
 garden : the things flic informed me of were of 
 no confequencc ; but the flattering expreffions flic 
 ufed towards me, gave me reafon to believe that I 
 was not indifferent to her. She aflured me, that I 
 might in time become a man of confequencc, if I 
 continued with her father, and choofe myfelf a wife 
 out of a rich family of diftinction ; that her father 
 had raifed himfelf by fimilar means.* As the 
 tender-hearted girl was beginning to tell me wfyat 
 
 i s , i 
 
 * He came to the Cape as a common foldier, and had tne-good 
 fortune to be appointed orderly-man to the Governor, and to 
 improve' birhfelf in reading and writing ; while in this nation 
 he like wife became acquainted with his prefent wife, who had 
 been pregnant by an Englifh officer. She took a liking to 
 the young foldier. When the Governor, who loved Brand, 
 oblervcd this, he endeavoured to diftinguifh and - recom- 
 - mend him ftill more ; and accordingly the marriage was hap- 
 pily concluded. Brand, being an Englishman by birth* was 
 Hopoinfed a clerk, and employed at the counting-houfes, in 
 which bufinefs was tranfadted with the Englilh (hips that 
 tone lied at the Cape. He role higher and higher, till at length 
 he obtained his prefent ikuation. 
 
 her
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. I J 
 
 her mother hud refolved upon with regard to me, 
 we. faw her coming towards us with her two 
 youngefl daughters: and as me had efpied us, we 
 durft not endeavour to avoid her. I was not a 
 little difturbed at this unexpected meeting; efpe- 
 cially when me approached nearer to us, and I was 
 able, from the anger flaming from her eyes, to 
 form a conjecture of the inward workings of her 
 mind. I addreffed her, and begged pardon for 
 having prefumed to walk with her daughter ; that 
 us I was returning from the fort, I had acci- 
 dentally met her in the garden, and afked her per- 
 million to attend her home-. Contrary to my ex- 
 pectation, I received a friendly ahfwer from the 
 mother, was defired to remain with them a little 
 longer in the garden, and afterwards to accompany 
 them to a beautiful vineyard near Cape-town, 
 called the Rcd-Ffower.- Accordingly I walked with 
 them to the vineyard r ; we converfed about various 
 fubjects, and did not return till the evening ; when 
 I [even had the honour to fup with my miftrefs. 
 After fupper I retired to my apartment, where I 
 continued fome hours fettling fome accounts : 
 while in the midft of my work, a female Have 
 brought me orders immediately to attend my mif- 
 trefs. I haftcned to her room, and was received 
 in the moft friendly manner ; at laft fhe faid to 
 me, " Now that we are without witnefles, t:ll me 
 
 C the
 
 1 8 TKAVlU I2C. T 
 
 the truth : did you not make an afiignation frith 
 my daughter to meet in the Company's garden ? 
 and have yon not deiigns upon her ? for I have 
 obferved that me frequently enters your room." 
 I was at a lofs what to fay, but at length repeated 
 what I had told her in the garden, pleaded my 
 caufe as well as I could, and endeavoured to con- 
 vince her that her daughter had never vifited me 
 but in company with her brother, and had always 
 convcrfed with me upon indifferent fubjecb, and 
 efpecially upon the fedatenefs of my conduct. All 
 my excufes were rejected, and fhe continued : " my 
 daughter has confefled to me the whole bufinefs, 1 
 am acquainted with your views ; by vain attempts 
 to conceal any thing from me,- you will therefore 
 greatly injure yourfelf, for I alone am able to pro- 
 mote your profperity, and to make you 1 a man of 
 refpectability and fortune." This fpeech was fol- 
 lowed by menaces and promifes ; but I perfifted m 
 what 1 had faid before, wifhed her a good night j 
 and left the room, while fhe was calling out after 
 me, " I fhall know, Sir, how to render you more 
 Communicative." From all this, and from the 
 whole tcnour of her conduct, it was eafy lo difcern 
 her views * I was therefore obliged to proceed with 
 the utmoft prudence and caution, left 1 mould 
 plunge myfelf into the moft abject mifery by firft 
 gratifying her dciires, and afterwards becoming 
 
 the
 
 INTERIOR" OF .AFRICA. 1 9 
 
 the object of her perfecution and malignity. In- 
 ftances of this kind happened frequently during 
 my refidence at the Cape ; I fhall, however, relate 
 only one, from which a judgment may be form- 
 ed on the character of the women at the Cape: 
 A refpectable gentleman, of the name of Munch, 
 was married to a beautiful young lady ; and in 
 order to remove every temptation, he admitted no 
 ftrangers into his houfe ; he kept a tutor how- 
 ever, for his three children, of the name of Lup- 
 mann, a native of Pruflia.* His wife endeavoured 
 to gain the affections of this young man, and to 
 engage him in a criminal intercourfe. He went 
 one day after the hours of bufmefs into the garden 
 behind the houfe, and amufed himfelf with prun- 
 ing the vines; his miltrefs, perceiving him from 
 the window, called to him, and defired that he 
 would come up into her room and difpel her ennui. 
 He obeyed ; and either from hurry or miftake 
 took the pruning knife with him into the room. 
 The lady locked the door, and then made him pro- 
 portions which it was not in his power to repel. 
 Hearing on a fuddcn the voice of her hufband, 
 whofe return fhe had not expected fo foon, the 
 
 * He was bora at Haufbergen, in the vicinity of Minden, 
 where he held the place of a foreiter. Throi:s;h the intereft of 
 Colonel GerJoti he afterwards obtained a more lucrative office. 
 
 C 2 bafe
 
 0. TlLAVtLS IN" TI 
 
 bafc woman, in order to fave her Idf from reproach 
 and difgracc, ihrieked in the fnoft dreadful man- 
 ner, and called for afiiftance. Her hufband bat- 
 tened to her room but found the doors locked, 
 which Ire pretended to be unable to open. He 
 therefore ordered fome of his flavcs to break it 
 open, and found the tutor, in whom he had 
 hitherto placed a boundlefs confidence, in a ftate of 
 apparent perplexity and conftcrnation, and his wife 
 in tears. She immediately flew to him, mowed him 
 the knife and faid " With this knife the bafe vil- 
 lain has threatened to murder me'bccaufc I would 
 not comply witli his wicked defines ; I was com- 
 pelled to exert myfelf to the utmoft to wreft it 
 from him, and prevent his murderous defign ; your 
 prefence alone has refcucd me from death.'* The 
 unfortunate tutor being ftruck dumb with fear, 
 and unable to utter a word in his defence, his 
 filence became an additional motive with the huf- 
 band to credit the aflertions of his wife ; lie there- 
 fore caufed him immediately to be lodged in the 
 Drunk,* to be tried on the two-fokl charge or adul- 
 tery and murder. He was found guilty, and con- 
 demned to be tranfported in irons for thirty a ears 
 to a neighbouring ifland. This rigorous fentence 
 was, however, foon altered through the mterccf- 
 
 .,. i - - - a. - - - - - . 1 .. _ 
 
 * lfte principal *ol ..t the t an.-. 
 
 lion
 
 INTERIOR, OF AFRJQA. 21 
 
 /ion of Colonel Gordon, who, being acquainted 
 with, the character of Mrs. Jvlnnch, gave full credit 
 to the declaration of the tutor, and contrived to 
 gain the confidence of her favourite {lave. By 
 this means he was confirmed in his opinion of 
 the veracity of the tutor, took him under his pro- 
 tection, and ordered him to be, removed to the 
 Cafcie; informing the Court that he was con- 
 vinced, by the teftimony of irreproachable wit- 
 neffes, that the tutor was by no means lb guilty 
 as he was fuppofed to be, and }:hat, if. they perflfted 
 in the fentence palled, he fhould report the cafe 
 to the government of the United Provinces, and 
 alfo fend two witneifes to Holland. Munch, it 
 firft would not relax ; but his wife, being aware 
 Jihat in the end Ihe might be called to an accoupt 
 and puniihed, contrived to put a period to tfie 
 whole bufmefs, by representing to her huiband 
 that he would do well to fave the enormous ex- 
 pence attending; proceedings of this nature, and 
 to refign the bafe tutor to pie vengeance of heaven. 
 Thefe arguments fitisfied the huiband ; the pro- 
 ceedings were ftopped, and the tutor was fet at 
 liberty. I could relate a great variety of fimilar 
 ftories, but I {hall refume fhe ^arratiye of my own 
 events.: I ufuaily received my brcakfaft at feven 
 o'clock, but this morning none was fent to me. 
 At ten o'clock I fent a Have to my miftrefs to alk 
 
 C 3 for
 
 22 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 for my breakfaft ; fhe font it me, accompanied 
 however with this intimation, that I muft myfelf 
 fetch the breakfaft, as well as whatever elfe I might 
 want. After dinner I was ordered to bottle off 
 fome wine ; I did fo, but as a few bottles, which 
 had been damaged by the flaves in cleaning them, 
 broke, I was reprimanded in the moft violent 
 manner, nay, threatened with blows. This treat- 
 ment excited my utmoft indignation ; I threw the 
 letter, which I held in my hand, on the ground, 
 haftened into my room, dreffed myfelf, and left 
 the houfe. I went to the Caftle, and informed 
 Major Bllimer of what had happened, who advifed 
 me to ftay with him until the return of my maf. 
 ter. This advice met with my fulleft approba- 
 tion ; I returned, however, once more to my ha- 
 bitation, packed up what fmall effects I poffeffed, 
 and wrote a note to my miftrefs, wherein I in- 
 formed her that I was going to join my mafter, 
 and that therefore it would not be in her power 
 to report me to the Governor as a deferter. I 
 thought it my duty to follow my mafter, although 
 I was perfectly fenfible that I could not long con- 
 tinue in his fervice, being perfecuted by his wife, 
 wno completely governed him. I muft here de- 
 clare, that in the courfe of my travels I have vi- 
 fited no country 'where the women Q-overn their 
 hu Id an as in fp defpotic a manner as at the Cape. 
 
 The
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 2^ 
 
 'The major gave me alfb a letter for my mafter, 
 and I let oflj happy in having elcaped the ill 
 treatment of a bafe woman. On my journey it 
 ftruck me, that as, according to my engagement, 
 I had to fcrve live years longer, it would be better 
 to entreat my mafter either to replace, me in my 
 firft poll, or among the guards of the line. My 
 mafter was aflonifhed .at my arrival ; I was obliged 
 to acquaint him with the caufe of my journey, 
 which I did, adding my requeft, to be releafed from 
 my prefent employment, and to be placed again in 
 .my former poft or among the guards of the line. 
 *' At prefent," he replied, " I can do nothing for 
 you ; as foqn as I return to Cape-town I will pro- 
 vide you with fome place or other ; in 'he mean 
 jtime you fhall ftay with me." 
 
 On the fifth day after my arrival came an exprefs 
 with the intelligence, that three Englifh mips had 
 dropped anchor in the .bay, which caufed my maf- 
 ter to return immediately to town, where we ar- 
 rived the next day. No body took the leaft notice 
 of me on my arrival in the houfe ; my room was 
 locked and nobody offered to open it. I remained 
 therefore in the pafiage, until my mafter, coming 
 put of his room, found me there ; he afked, why 
 I did not go into my room r and on telling him in 
 reply, that it was locked, he fetched the key and 
 
 C 4 returned
 
 14 TRAVELS IN THH 
 
 returned to his room while I went into mine. I 
 found every thing therein the utmoil confufion, 
 and was employed in arranging fome books and 
 writing, when I was called by my mafter. It 
 clearly appeared from his countenance that fome- 
 thing 1 had 'happened ; he bid me follow him into 
 his room. The confufion was frill greater there 
 than in my own room ; letters, bills, writings, lay 
 all tumbled together. I was ftruck with terror 
 and arrtazement, and called to an account by my 
 mailer ; but I anfwered him, that long before my 
 departure the key had been taken from me. I af- 
 litted him in collecting and arranging the fcattered 
 papers, but we foon found that many of them were 
 miffing, a difcovery whkh enraged my mafter to. 
 fuch a degree, that he bid me go about my bufinefs, 
 and locked the door. His wife was firft called to 
 an account, but fhe was prepared to meet the 
 charge ; becaufe me had deliberately removed the 
 papers for the fole purpofe of Injuring me. She 
 told her huiband with the utmoft impudence, that 
 immediately after his departure 1 had been in the 
 room, rummaged and fcarched it all over, and put 
 fome papers into my pocket which had induced 
 her to take the key from me. She then ran up to 
 me with the vifage of a fury, attempted to feize 
 me by the hair, and to ill-treat me. My mafter, 
 who had followed her, endeavoured to keep hor 
 
 off
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA* 2$ 
 
 off, raid allured her that I mould be fcverely pu- 
 ni(hed ; but {he attacked me again, collared me, 
 and {truck me in the face. Enraged at this treat- 
 ment, I threw her on the ground,left thehoufe and 
 haftenedi to the caftle. Major Blumcr not being at 
 home, I applied to Colonel Gordon, gave him a 
 faithful account of what had happened, and re- 
 qucfted him to place me on military duty. He re- 
 plied, that he muft firft fpeak to my mafter, on 
 whoie interference in my favour he mould fee 
 what he could do for me ; in the meanwhile he 
 ordered i.e to remain with Serjeant Schufcr.. 
 The id titer ibon difclofed to me what would be my 
 fate ; they would not fuller me, he faid, to remain 
 in the Cattle, but would fend me by the firfl fhip 
 to Batavia, where I fhould be obliged to remain all 
 the future term of my fervitude. He at the fame 
 time depicted to me both the country and fervice 
 of Batavia in fuch frightful colours, that I loft all 
 my courage. Lieutenant Von Baalan,* who joined 
 us loon a tier, confirmed the truth of Schu/ier^s ac- 
 count, adding, that I might have made my for- 
 tune at the Cape had I flattered the vanity of Mrs. 
 Brand, and had better underftood the vaju^nofjier 
 whhes. [jsvlfi} of i 
 
 ; -. r c ; j ~ ~ 
 
 * 'ihib gentleman, who embarked in Holland as a common 
 
 faifor; by three years of* fervice had obtained' a lieutenant's 
 
 rr ', ' . 
 
 co mm anon. 
 
 But
 
 26 'I RAVELS IN THr. 
 
 Bat what was I now to do ? To remain at the 
 Cape was, under the prefent circumftanccs, utter- 
 ly impoflible ; and I could not think of going to 
 Batavia, of wi\ich I had received fo difgufling a 
 description. I refolvcd, therefore, to defert ; but 
 whither? That was the queftion. I could not 
 venture on board an Englifh fhip, iince Mr. Brand, 
 on being informed of it, would certainly have in- 
 fixed on my, being delivered up to him. Without 
 confidering the great diiHcultics and fatigues, the 
 extreme dangers and mifery to which I expofed 
 myfelf, I therefore determined upon returning to 
 urope by land, and executed this defign in the 
 following manner : 
 
 xlbout dulk I went to my matter, and entreated 
 him to keep me in his fervice, but to fend me 
 back to Falfc-bay, as he muft be fenfible that I could 
 not exift under the fame roof with his wife. At 
 firft he difapproved of my propofal, but at length 
 confented, on my affuring him that I would rather 
 join the Company than remain under the orders 
 of fuch a woman. I was however obliged to ftay 
 a few days longer, as fome Engliih oflicers were 
 expected, and as Rapch^ who was ordered hither 
 from Falfi-bay to fupply my place, was not yet ar- 
 rived. On the following day fix Englifh oflicers 
 
 actually
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. If 
 
 a&ually arrived, and in the evening Rapeb alfo 
 made his appearance. 
 
 On the 4th November, 1783, 1 fet out for the 
 bay, delivered my trunk to the driver of the Com- 
 pany's waggon, and fold the arrears of my wages, 
 as well as thofe effects which became ufelefs, from 
 the refolution which I had embraced. Among 
 the garrifon of the Meifenberg (Meifenmount) was 
 a corporal of the name of Martens,* a native of 
 
 the 
 
 * Frorq this gentleman M. Vaillant received a variety of 
 ufeful information, and probably alfo much of that which he 
 afterwards published as his own obfervations, and as the refult 
 of his own refearches. Whoever is in the leaft acquainted 
 with the Cape, mull know that it cofts conliderable trouble to 
 obtain pefmiiiion to undertake a journey into the country, 
 even on foot, and without the leaft baggage, &c. ; and yet at 
 a time when the beft undcrftanding did not prevail between 
 between Holland and France, M. \ aillant pretends to have 
 travelled there with a great retinue. It is well known that a 
 French regiment in the pay of the Company was obliged to 
 Jeave the country, merely becaufe the officers uied to relide 
 feveral weeks with the planters, without the leaft attempt to 
 make, fuch enquiries as M. Vaillant pretends to have made. 
 He endeavours to render his affertions plaufible by faying, that 
 he did not travel by the common road, and that he carefully 
 avoided the habitations of the planters. But admitting this to 
 be triui, at the time of his journey, his undertaking at leait 
 could not have remained unknown at the Cape; nor can his 
 collection of natural curioiities be alledged as a proof of his 
 
 having
 
 aS TRAVELS IN TIIK 
 
 the Electorate of Hanover, who, having attended 
 Colonel Gordon on a journey into the interior, 4s 
 far as Caffrcria, had projected a map of the country 
 which he had traverfed, and preferred it to tfte : 
 company, in the hope of receiving a handfome re* 
 ward ; but inftead of obtaining any recompe- 
 he was ordered never in future to attempt draw- 
 ing a fimilar map, on pain of thirty years impri- 
 fonment in irons; yet, regardiefs of this threat, 
 he would frequently fnut.himfeif up in his room, 
 and draw fimilar maps. I courted and obtained 
 his friendfhip ; but neverthelefs, he always care- 
 fully concealed ins work as foon as I entered the 
 room. One day, however, I took an opportu- 
 nity of telling him that I knew perfectly well what 
 he was about, and that he had no reafon to be 
 afraid of me, as I was likewife extremely fond of 
 things of this kind, and entreated him to let me 
 
 having actually performed his pretended journey, for they may 
 be bought in Cape-town of the inhabitants, flaves and Hotten-* 
 tots. I fliouhl not, however, deny, that the Governor 
 may have given M. Vailknt leave to vitit fonu individual 
 planter ; but I incline to think, that he appropriated to him- 
 fe!f the obfervations made by Colonel Gordon, in the courle 
 of the voyage which he undertook in the name of the Gover- 
 nor. I am alfo to oblerve, that every nrw Governor is bound 
 to perform a journey in the country as far as it belongs to the 
 Company; but Gov.cnor Pkthenberg fent Cck>r.d Gordon 
 in his ftead. 
 
 have
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 2Q 
 
 have one of his maps of the interior of the coun- 
 try. This he refufed, but allowed me to take 
 ibme conies of his original drawings, I immedi- 
 ately let to work, and fucceeded tolerably well. 
 Within a fhort time I was fully prepared for my 
 journey, but could not depart till the 24th Decem- 
 ber, when I requefted and obtained leave of Ser- 
 jeant Schneclo to go to the Cape. I left the bay 
 about noon, and (leered my courfe towards a plan- 
 tation which, from a former governor of the name 
 of Stiel,has taken the appellation of Bi&eft'b Bush, 
 or Giore. But before I enter upon the narrative 
 of my arrival in Stiel's Buih, and my fubfequent 
 travels, 1 mall here infert a table of the company's 
 yearly revenue and expence. Byfo doing, I truft 
 i mall render an acceptable fervice to many of my 
 readers, as my ilatement may be relied upon, it 
 being chiefly extracted from authentic papers in 
 the pofieffion of my mafter. 
 
 According to the general account for the year 
 1782, the Company's annual revenue and expen- 
 diture flood as follows : 
 
 REVENUE. 
 
 dollars. 
 
 Chr. Bamm, to whom the duty on wine 
 
 w T as let, paid 43,000 
 
 Maier,
 
 30 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 dollars. 
 
 Maier, who farmed the duty on meat, j 9,30a 
 
 Gottfried Jan farmed the duty on wine, 
 
 coffee and fugar, at 8,600 
 
 The Company's own houfes on the Cape, 
 
 and in Stoellen-bufli produced 3^72 
 
 Each houfe, whatever bulinefs may be 
 carried on in it, pays eight dollars per 
 annum, and thefe buildings are 409 in 
 number. In addition to this fum every 
 burgher pays an excife duty on every 
 article confumed in his houfe, and pro- 
 vides an uniform for himfelf, and a 
 variety of accoutrements and imple- 
 ments. In war-time- every burgher is 
 compelled to do duty as a foldier. The 
 greateft part keep horfes and ferve as 
 cavalry, and the reft do duty as foot 
 foldiers in the newly erected large bat>- 
 tery called New Amfterdam. 
 
 Houfe-keepers, who are not burghers?, 
 emancipated flaves, and the Company's 
 fervants, who rent houfes, which are at 
 the fame time held in fee limple by 
 burghers, pay each of them twelve dol- 
 lars for the ufe of the houfe. The 
 number of thofe houfes being 1 1 o, the 
 fum which they produce is - - l i3 2 
 
 Every
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 3I 
 
 dollars. 
 Every planter being obliged to pay the 
 tenth part of his income in ready 
 money, or to fuffer himielf to be af- 
 fcffed at that rate, the Company's re- 
 venue under this head is as follows : 
 
 From the low grounds, chiefly laid out in 
 
 Gardens - - - 2,007 
 
 From the large and fmall Conftanze - 1,240 
 
 From Steinberg, tlie Round-bum, and 
 
 Red-flower - - - - 2,370 
 
 From the Black-land, Red-fand, and Cart- 
 wrights' quarter, - - - i?79o 
 
 From Falfe-bay, Snake's-head, Nothen- 
 
 hook, and Three-heads - - 2,076 
 
 From Stiel's-bufh, which is the largeft 
 plantation, contains ic6 burghers, and 
 a church, and is governed by a Lord 
 Lieutenant - - - 3> 00 7 
 
 From the French-back, Hottentot Vifland, 
 
 and Socorws*dale - 1,090 
 
 From Sheep-mount, Mothergate, and 
 
 Battle-bay - - - - 9,7 s 
 
 From Drane-rock, Horfe-mount, and Sil- 
 ver-mine - - - - - 1,212 
 
 From Simon's-dale, Perlmount, and Wag- 
 gon-dale - - - - i>39 
 
 From
 
 3C TRAVELS IN THK 
 
 dollars. 
 
 From Rictbcck's cairle, barracks, and 
 
 Honey-mount - 2,o#o 
 
 From Piquet-mount, Hand-mill, and the 
 
 twenty^four rivers - - - 1,958 
 
 The reft of the planters, who refide at a 
 greater diitance in the country, likewife 
 contribute to the public revenue; in 
 1782 their number amounted to 338 
 (27 of whom were yet yet enjoying an 
 exemption from taxes), and paid in the 
 whole 7,34^ 
 
 For each Have, purchafed by a burgher or 
 planter, a duty of 10 dollars is paid ; the 
 number of Haves thus bought, amount- 
 ing annually to about 50, the revenue 
 is, upon an average - - 500 
 
 The annual poll-tax for each Have is 5 dol- 
 lars ; fuppofmg their number to amount 
 to 8000, the ium total is 40,000 
 
 Total of the Revenue 1 44,44 1 
 
 The planters are moreover bound to fell fome 
 articles to the Company at a certain reduced price; 
 e.g. ico pounds of barley, wheat, beans, peafe, 
 &c. for 1 2 grofticn. 
 
 The meat-farmers are alfo obliged to deliver to 
 
 the
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 3 j 
 
 the company ftands in need of, at a certain rate ; 
 for inftancc, a iheep for 1 2 grofhen,* a bullock for 
 1 dollar and 1 2 grofhen. 
 
 The company pay alfo very low prices to the 
 planters for wine, that is, 12 dollars for a cafk of 
 about 800 cans. 
 
 The anchorage paid by foreign bottoms, goes 
 alfo into the Company's chefts, but cannot be 
 placed to account, as the Company itfelf muft pay 
 the fame anchorage in foreign harbours, and the 
 revenue and expenditure under this head are 
 nearly balanced. 
 
 EXPENDITURE. 
 
 dollars. 
 To repairs of the fortifications and bat- 
 teries - - - - - 2,000 
 
 To the Governor - - - 25,000 
 
 This officer is obliged to keep four clerks 
 and twelve horfes 
 
 To the deputy -governqr or vice-prefident 1 0,000 
 To the Company-mailer as intendant of 
 
 fhipping - - - - 15,000 
 
 To the chief magiftrate of the city or pre- 
 fident of the civic council, who is ob- 
 liged to keep two clerks and fix horfes .18,000 
 
 * A grofh is about one "penny three farthings Engliih inoney, 
 
 D To
 
 34 Travels in the 
 
 cfollars.. 
 To the Attorney-General - - 8,ooo 
 
 The other perfons who hold places under 
 government, and are called affiftants, 
 have all 1006 dollars a year ; the oldeft 
 of them having fomething more, the 
 whole expence under this head amounts 
 for 27 to - - 30,00c 
 
 The officers who do not belong to the mi- 
 litary, and are called bas, receive very 
 little pay, amounting uiually to about 
 240 dollars per annum : they are 14 in 
 number, and receive in the whole 3,36c 
 
 The warrant-officers, who do not properly 
 belong to the military, receive ftill lefs, 
 in general 59 dollars each; which a- 
 mounts for 20 to - - - ix8o 
 
 The artiians employed by the Company > 
 fuch as ninths, rope-makers, &c re- 
 ceive 59 dollars ; they are 300 in num- 
 ber, and the whole of their pay amounts 
 to i, 77 c 
 
 Two quartctmen, and ten fhipwrights, re- 
 ceive 70 dollars, making in the whole 84? 
 
 - 
 Seamen who are constantly employed at 
 
 different
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 
 
 different places, as for inftance, in the 
 dockyards, or in Falfe-bay, &c. each in 
 proportion to his fervices, from 3 to 6 
 dollars, and free rations of rice, &c. the 
 whole amounting to 
 
 The head bailiff receives - 
 
 The two under bailiffs receive 
 
 Three Calvinift clergymen, in the fervice 
 of the Company - 
 
 The three phyficians belonging to the hof- 
 pital - 
 
 To the maintenance of the 140 flaves be- 
 longing to the Company 
 
 The under-ftaff, i. e. the public execu- 
 tioner, his adiftant, &c. &c. 
 
 Twelve Caffrees, who are appointed over- 
 feers to maintain ftrict difcipline among 
 the flaves - - 
 
 Thofe foldiers who are employed at Cape- 
 town in felling wood, burning lime, or 
 as labourers, and therefore are not in- 
 cluded in the regular lift of the military, 
 receive in proportion to their merit, 
 D 2 from 
 
 35 
 dollars. 
 
 6>943 
 
 2*500. 
 
 600 
 
 500 
 
 3,000 
 
 IjOOO 
 
 I,50Q 
 
 300
 
 -6 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 dollars, 
 from 9 to 12 florins* each, and even 
 more. There are about 160 of them, 
 and their pay amounts to * * 1 6,ooo 
 
 The pay of the garrifon, confuting of 500 
 foldiers, 180 artillerymen, &c. amounts 
 to ----- 183,100 
 
 
 
 Total Expenditure 33>993 
 
 The hofpital cofts the Company nothing, as there 
 is a fufficient ftore of beds, kitchen utenfils, mat- 
 rafTes, and other articles ; and as every patient 
 muft give up his pay for his maintenance as long 
 as he remains there : indeed if he is only a few 
 days in the hofpital, he muft give up his month's 
 pay. For the reception, maintenance, and attend- 
 ance on the fick brought from other (hips, the re- 
 fpeftive captains muft provide, paying for each pa- 
 tient immediately on his admittance, in advance 
 for fourteen days, a Dutch florin for each day. 
 
 For rice ana arrack, winch the Company brings 
 to the Cape from the Kaft Indies, they receive in 
 return bread and wfne for the fhips. 
 
 
 - The florin is \vo!!h about Is. ?d. of Knglifli money. 
 
 Many
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 37 
 
 Many readers will be furprifed to find from the 
 above ftatemerit, that the I)utch Eaft India Com- 
 pany draws fo inconfiderable a revenue from the 
 Cape, and have fuch heavy expences to defray : but 
 they muft confider, that the poffeffion of the Cape 
 is almoft indifpenfably neceflary to them for the 
 fecurity of their mips failing to India, as . they arc 
 there fupplied with frefh provifions, water, wine, 
 &c. &c. I omitted above another heavy expence 
 which the Company have to defray : namely, the 
 maintaining a foreign regiment here. Not deem- 
 ing the ufual garrifon fufheient for the defence of 
 the Cape againft an attack of the enemy, they took 
 into pay for feveral years fucceffively, a Freneh re- 
 giment, and ftationed it here. It is eafy for every 
 reader to form to himfelf an idea of the great ex- 
 pence which fuch a regiment of from twelve to 
 fourteen hundred men muft occafion, And as 
 thefe mercenaries, when they had formed ac- 
 quaintances at the Cape, and in a maimer become 
 orientalized, were ufually brought back to their 
 own country, and others fent to the Cape in their 
 Head t confiderable additional funis muft have 
 been expended for tranfports, See. In the courfe 
 of a few years, four French regiments were in gar- 
 rifon here. 
 
 The
 
 38 TRAVEDS IN THE 
 
 Tlie Company might derive many other advan- 
 tages from the Cape, and might diminifh their ex- 
 pences, if their fervants in power acted with more 
 uprightnefs, and with greater attention to the in- 
 terefts of their employers. On the form of govern- 
 ment at the Cape, on the manners of the inhabi- 
 tants, &c. &c. Vaillant and other travellers have 
 communicated to the public important and juft 
 obfervations. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ;<:> 
 
 ch w
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 39 
 
 CHAP. IL 
 
 The Author commences his Journey into the Interior of 
 the Country He pur chafes a new Carabine of the 
 Head-bailiff at Sticlcns Bofch Powder and Ball he 
 partly receives as a Prefcnt, and partly endeavours 
 to procure the like Neccffaries by other means, and 
 then purfues his Journey At firfi he pciffes the 
 Night at the Houfes of feme of the Planters ; but 
 afterwards avoids them, and either takes shelter in 
 the Kraals of the Hottentots, or remains all night in 
 the open Air, kindling a Fire that he may flecp fc cure 
 from the Attacks of wild Beqjls The Author often 
 contradicls the Accounts published by Vaillant, and 
 even maintains that he did not travel through this 
 Part of the Country. 
 
 ON the 25th of December, in the evening, J 
 fofely arrived at Stielens Bofch : here I was 
 acquainted with the head-bailiff, who had often 
 feen me at Brand's : I repaired, full of confidence, 
 to his houfe, and was well received. He queftioned 
 me concerning the object of my journey : and I 
 told him, that I had many things to regulate at 
 my mailer's eftate. Here I purchafed a new cara- 
 i>ine, which I did without difficulty, as I pretended 
 
 D 4 that
 
 40 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 that I wanted it merely for the purpofe of defend- 
 ing myfelf, in cafe I fhould be ill-treated by Brand's 
 land-fteward, Barenfmahl, againft whom many 
 complaints had been made to my maiter. On the 
 26 th, accompanied by the two fons of the head- 
 bailiif, I proceeded about feven Engliih miles far- 
 ther to the eftate of another acquaintance, named 
 Munch. He was juft on the point of fetting out 
 1 om Cape-town : this intelligence greatly terrified 
 me ; but I endeavoured immediately to recollect 
 and compofe myfelf, for fear of exciting fufpicion ; 
 and I met with a very friendly reception on tel- 
 ling him that I was on my way to Mrs. Brand's 
 eftate. I requefted Mr. Munch, to whom I fhewed 
 the carabine, to furnifli me with a pound of gun- 
 powder, either for ready money, or upon condi- 
 tion to return him the fame quantity again. He 
 made me a prefent of two pounds and of thirty 
 balls ; and promifed fometimes to vifit me after 
 his return from the Cape, for the purpofe of going 
 with me on a hunting expedition. I exprcfled 
 great joy at this propofal, and promifed to make 
 every thing as agreeable to him as poilible. After 
 refrefhing myfelf I took my leave of Mr. Munch, of 
 whom I begged that he would not mention at the 
 Cape that I had been with him, as my miftrefs 
 had forbidden me to call at Kis houfe. It is not 
 indeed ufual at the Cape to purfue a deferter who 
 
 flees
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 41 
 
 flees towards the interior of the country, as they 
 believe that he cannot eafily efcape in that direc- 
 tion : there was not, therefore, any abfolute necef- 
 fity to requeft Mr. Munch to be filent about my 
 arrival at his houfe ; I deemed it, however, more 
 prudent to take that precaution. 
 
 
 
 On the 27th I arrived in the neighbourhood of 
 Brand's eftate ; but concealed myfelf till nigh 4 - ^nd 
 then went directly to the habitation of the Haves, 
 that I might not be obferved by Barenfmahl. I 
 likewife forbade the flaves to notify my arrival 
 to him, as I intended to proceed further the next 
 day. I fupped on fome rice and fifli, but my 
 mind being opprefled with care and anxiety, I was 
 unable to fleep. Before break of day I defired the 
 herdfmen to put me into the way to Gerhard Mut- 
 ter's Settlement, which is fiiuated four miles* far- 
 ther. Before I parted from him I requefted fome 
 gun-powder of him, pretending that I had loft 
 my own ; and promifed to fend him from Cape- 
 town double the quantity he might lend me. He 
 accordingly gave me half a pound, referving only 
 a fmall quantity for himfelf to defend the cattle 
 from the attacks of wild animals. The road led 
 
 * The German mile, to which the author alludes, is equal to 
 about three Englifh miles and a quarter. 
 
 through
 
 42 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 through a thicket, where I faw feveral tygers 
 which were balking in the fun, and lying itretched 
 out upon the rocks : I was much terrified when 
 I obferved tliat they had feen mc ; but none of 
 them ftirred from their fituatiom To the right 
 and to the left of me I efpicd habitations belonging 
 to the -planters ; but I carefully avoided them, 
 though much tormented by hunger and thirft. 
 Quite exhaufted, I at length arrived at Mr. II tit- 
 ter's, who was juft returned from hunting, and was 
 taking fome refreshment. He welcomed me ia 
 a friendly manner, enquired after my mafter, and 
 queftioned me concerning the object, of my jour- 
 ney, and feveral other things. I related to him 
 the moft recent occurrences at the Cape, and told 
 him that I had been commiflioned by my mafter 
 to purchafe ikins from Thomas Dreyer.* Mr. 
 Hiitter believed all I (aid, entertained me in a hol- 
 pi table manner, and on the following morning 
 rurniihed me with a horfe as far as Thomas 
 Dreyer's habitation, which lay two miles and a 
 
 * Dreyer had been a game-keeper ; he poffefled a corrfide-r 
 eftate, and kept leventy-fix flaves. Brand bought the furs 
 and fkins of him; and had them lb far drefled and prepared, 
 {hat they might be lent by fca to England. 
 
 half
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 43 
 
 half further up the country. When I arrived at 
 Dreycr's I font back the horfe by the Hottentot 
 who had been ordered to accompany me. Dreyer 
 wi!s not at home : his wife informed me that he 
 was gone to Stielens Bofeh, and would not return 
 till fix days after : but told me I might remain at 
 her houfc as long as I pleafed. I accepted her of- 
 fer, and ftaid there three nights. I now formed a 
 l'efolutien to avoid entering in future any of the 
 houfes of the planters, left I mould perhaps at laft 
 be detained as a defer ter ; in purfuing my journey 
 I therefore kept at a diftance from all habitations. 
 I halted for the night in the vicinity of the planter 
 Meyback's dwelling, at a place where cattle had 
 been feeding. I fiept foundry till towards morn- 
 ing, when I was awakened by the howling of 
 wolves. The dew had penetrated my cloaths, and 
 I mivered with cold ; I therefore rofe, puriued my 
 journey, and after walking two hours, came to the 
 fields of a planter of the name of Muhlmann : here 
 I found his flaves, of whom I requefted fome food; 
 two of them presented to me their portions of 
 rice and fifh, and in return I gave each of them a 
 guilder, and then proceeded forwards. Towards 
 evening I arrived at Satani-bay ; I afcended the 
 adjoining mountain, from which I could overlook 
 the fea and an extenfive tract of country. ; here I 
 made a large fire, and lay down to fleep without 
 
 any
 
 44 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 any apprehenfion of danger. At break of day I 
 relumed my journey, and foon reached the neigh- 
 bourhood of the eftate of one Woltmann; Wifh- 
 ing to fpeak to the ilaves, I fent to their habitation 
 and found there the mafter of the fettlemcnt : he 
 took me to his apartment, hofpitably entertained 
 me, and enquired concerning the object, of my 
 journey.* I replied, that my mafter had given 
 me permiflion to make an excurfion of pleafure as 
 far as Blettenberg-bay. I halted three days at 
 Woltmann's houfe, and then in company with a 
 (lave, who was fent along with me as a guide to 
 carry my baggage, and proceeded to Mr. Spittler's 
 cftatc, which lies on the Salt-rivicre, at the diftance 
 of three miles from Satani-bay. After I had taken 
 fome refreshment at this place, I purfued my jour-. 
 ney through thickets and tracklcfs parts, for the 
 purpofe of avoiding all habitations : when in want 
 of food, I repaired to the pafturcs and fields, and 
 bought fome provifions of the flaves. The fmal- 
 ler rivers were for the moft part dried up, and 
 were therefore croflfed without danger. Mr. Vail- 
 i 
 
 * Moft of the planters knew jnc ; as the arhclcs delivered by 
 them into the ftorehoufes under my mailer's fupcrintendance, 
 were generally weighed or meafurtc! by me : and every planter 
 was ul'ually, during his iiay in the town, invited once or oftener 
 to dinner by Mr. Brand. 
 
 lant
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 45 
 
 lant maintains, that in this part of the country he 
 found an extraordinarily great quantity of wild 
 beafts : but every one who is acquainted with the 
 Hate of the country, muft be aware how many 
 coloniils are fettled there, and how intent thefe 
 colonifts are upon the deftroying thefe wild beafts, 
 will confequently perceive that M. Vaillant's affer- 
 tion is unfounded. 
 
 On this occafion I fhall make a few obfervations 
 reflecting the colonifts; and then proceed with 
 the narrative of my journey. 
 
 The colonifts of the Cape of Good Hope are not 
 poiTeiTed of much ready money : their riches con- 
 fift chiefly of cattle and Haves. The pooreft of 
 them has at leaft ten flaves, which, on his lirft form- 
 ing a fettlement, are lent him by the Eaft India 
 Company, the colonift paying an annual intereft 
 of ten guilders* for each. If he wifhes to have the 
 llaves as his own property, he muft give a bond 
 of two hundred guilders for each, payable within 
 ten years, either in money or with corn, or fome 
 other products of his farm. Moft of the colonifts 
 follow the chace ; and each of them receives from 
 the Company annually four pounds of gun-powder 
 -and one pound of lead, and likewife Ihot-money, 
 
 * A guilder is worth about Is. Qd. Englifli. 
 
 if
 
 46 travels in- the 
 
 
 if he delivers the fkins to the Company's agents. 
 The remuneration for killing wild beafts is paid 
 according to the following table : 
 
 
 
 rix dolls, groflics* 
 
 For an elephant 
 A rhinoceros 
 
 * 
 - 
 
 3 o 
 * 3 
 
 A camel 
 
 A wild buffalo 
 
 - 
 
 r 2 12 
 I 18 
 
 An elk 
 
 - 
 
 2 12 
 
 A lion 
 
 - 
 
 I O 
 
 A tyger 
 
 A zebra 
 
 
 
 I o 
 I o 
 
 A wild-boar 
 
 A gems-bock 
 
 - 
 
 2 O 
 
 o 6 
 
 A wild dog 
 
 - 
 
 o 16 
 
 A tyger-cat 
 
 - A liya.ua 
 
 - 
 
 12 
 
 1 12 
 
 A giraffe 
 
 - 
 
 2 O 
 
 
 But it is more to their advantage to carry the 
 (kins for fale to the mips, where they receive a 
 higher price for them. It has been remarked by 
 the hunters that fevcral of the wild animals of this 
 country migrate from place to place, either at the 
 rutting feafon, or at the time of coupling, or when 
 there is a deficiency of water in their ufual haunts. 
 That hejtxls of fevcral hundred wild beafts are here 
 
 fcen
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 4? 
 
 icon together, is likewife an unfounded aiTertion, 
 except perhaps the calizcs. 
 
 The by-way on which I now entered was very 
 fatiguing, for the thickets, and broken pieces of the 
 rocks, rendered it almoft impaffable. It is the ' 
 lame which Vaillant pretends to have paffed with 
 his caravan. But I may venture to maintain that 
 he never travelled through this part of the coun- 
 try ; for the whole tract is fo rough and pathlefs, 
 that even a fingle perfon muft often with great la- 
 bour and difficulty force a paflage through it, as 
 for inftance at the place called the Hollow Cliff, 
 where I was obliged to climb up the rocks with 
 Great danger. I thought I had overcome all ob- 
 ftacles, when I reached the fummit of the rocky 
 mountain ; but I foon difcovered my error ; for 
 then I difcovered that I muft defcend again, and 
 that before me were precipices and fteep fhelving 
 rocks. As there was no alternative, I was under 
 the neceflity of making the attempt ; but was fe- 
 veral times in danger of tumbling down headlong, 
 as, while I hung by the hands to one piece of rock, 
 I could not reach with my feet that beneath me. 
 
 On the 1 9th of February I arrived at Bletten- 
 bergh-bay, and immediately repaired to the houfe 
 of Mr. Vortmeyer : I found only his wife at .home, 
 
 and
 
 48 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 and from her I learned that her hufband was gone 
 to Schwellendamm, and would not return within 
 three days. She prefled me to wait his return, 
 and afijgned me a chamber in an out-building to 
 fleep in. I willingly accepted her offer, and dur- 
 ing my flay took a view of the country, endea- 
 voured to gain from the Hottentots in her fervice 
 fome information refpe&ing the roads, and to fur- 
 nifh myfclf with feveral neceflary articles. I had 
 the good fortune to obtain a calebafh,* feveral 
 pounds of gun-powder, a tinder-bov, brimftone, 
 and fome other ufeful articles. The tract of coun- 
 try in the neighbourhood of Blettenbergh-bay is 
 very beautiful and fertile ; and I am furprifed that 
 the commodioufnefs of the fituation did not long 
 ago fuggeft the project of building a city here ; 
 for within a compafs of 200 miles there is to be 
 found here excellent water, abundance of fire- 
 wood and of timber fit for building, larger and 
 more delicious fruits than I have feen elfewhere, 
 and the harbour is capable of containing about 
 fifty fhips. The Danes, French and Portugueze 
 often vifit the bay, as provifions are cheaper 
 here than at the Cape. The Eaft India Company 
 
 It generally coniifts of gourd fcooped hollow and dried 
 in the fun, and i ufed inftead of a flafk for the purpofe of car- 
 rying water. 
 
 has
 
 INTERIOR Qi? AFRICA. 49 
 
 has indeed ordered that no foreign flaps, unlefs 
 driven into the bay by a florin, fhould be permit- 
 ted to remain at anchor there, or receive from the 
 fhore more than three days water and provifions ; 
 otherwise if* fliips were permitted to lay in a f'uifi- 
 cient fupply here, the Company would lofe the an- 
 chorage-dues, which are now paid at the Cape. 
 For the purpofe, therefore, of preventing an un- 
 lawful intercourfe with foreign fliips, a ferjeant 
 and fix foldiers are ftationed here as a guard : but 
 thefe men, being more attentive to their own in- 
 terefl than to th^t of the Company, accept bribes, 
 and coKfequently fuffer an uninterrupted inter- 
 courfe and traffic between the colonifts and the 
 fliips which touch there. The name of the fer- 
 jeant who had the command here was Von Schell; 
 he was a native of Denmark, and had been in 
 the Pruffian fervice. 
 
 On the 25th Vogtmeyer returned home : he 
 received me in a very friendly manner, but at the 
 fame time told me that he well knew I was a de- 
 ierter, and that he fhculd conduct me back to 
 Cape-town, for which fervice he mould certainly 
 receive thirty florins from Mr. Brand. I was 
 thunderftruck on hearing this, and already pic- 
 tured to myfelf in imagination the cruel treat - 
 
 E ment
 
 5<5 TRAVEL? iti THE 
 
 ment that would folk.w fuch a ftep. My fcarS, 
 however, were foon dispelled when he added, that 
 if he mipht receive an hundred florins, yet he 
 would not betray me ; on the contrary, if I would 
 fincerely confide to him my defigns, he would do 
 every thing in his power to afliit mc. I told him 
 that I was relblved to travel through the interior 
 countries of Africa, whatever might be the event 
 of fuch an undertaking. He laughed, called me 
 a headftrong madman, and endeavoured to per- 
 fuade me to relinquiih my deiign. When he 
 found that his arguments produced no effect upon 
 me, he wilhed every fuccels to attend me, and iup- 
 plicd me with a knapfick made of calves' fkins, 
 a fmall hatchet, and Icvcral other articles, which 
 might prove of fervicc to me on my intended 
 journey. 
 
 On the ^ 6th of February, Vogtmeyer put mc 
 into the road to Caffrana, and we then took 
 a friendly farewell of each other. The diftance 
 from this place to the borders was yet twenty fe- 
 ven German miles, and I was already feventy-four 
 from Cape-town. I avoided the fcttlements of the 
 planters, and for that purpofe kept to the fouth- 
 eaft, leaving them to my right. I parted through 
 large fdrefts, and croited imrncnfc mountains. On 
 
 o/l l the
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 5 1 
 
 the following day I arrived at the firli Hottentot- 
 Kraal,- which confifted of about twenty huts, and 
 was called, after the name of the chief, \\'ahhab\ 
 Kraal. A herdfman efpied me coming, and haf- 
 tened to the kraal to announce my arrival : imme- 
 diately two ftout fellows, young Hottentots, came 
 forth, with javelins in their hands, viewed me, 
 and then advanced towards me, inquiring whe- 
 ther I came alone, whether I belonged to the co- 
 lonifts, and to what place I intended to go. I an- 
 fwered their queftions as well as I could, and was 
 then conducted by them into the kraal to the 
 Montur, for fo the chief is called. He ordered 
 them to give me fome milk, and he himfeli: pre- 
 fented me with fome maize which had been roaft- 
 ed, for' which I paid a Dutch florin. I requefted 
 a night's lodging : he not only granted my re- 
 queft, but gave me an invitation to remain in the 
 kraal as long as I pleafed, and added that he would 
 take care to fupply me with proviftons. Towards 
 evening almoft all the inhabitants of the kraal af- 
 fembkd on a green before the hut of the chief, 
 and diverted themfelves with flnging and dancing. 
 Soon after the dancing had commenced, fome 
 young women came into our hut, and requefted 
 us to join them : we immediately complied. 
 The young girls quite naked mingled in the dances 
 with the voungr men, manv of whom were like- 
 
 K 2 ^wife
 
 5* 
 
 f RAVLS IN THE 
 
 wife naked.* I knew that the habitation of the 
 colonift Wakher, who diftilled brandy-wine, was 
 not above three Englifli miles diftant from the 
 
 kraal: 
 
 - , i I 
 
 ; 
 
 * The unmarried female Hottentots- wear no cloathing; but 
 the married women wear a fmall apron to cover their nudities. 
 Many of the young girls, efpecially if they are pretty, are mar- 
 ried as early as the ajc of eight or nine years. The Hotten- 
 tots do not appear to have any laws againft fornication; for 
 among them married men, under certain rettri&ions, are allow- 
 ed to cohabit with unmarried women, and unmarried men have 
 ftill greater liberties. M. Vaillant, then, is miftaken when he 
 extols the young Hottentot girls as particularly chafte and 
 virtuous. Adultery on the part of the wife is feverclv punilhed 
 by the whole horde: but a hufband is permitted to have fex- 
 ual intercourfe with an unmarried girl, during the time that 
 his wife is in child-bed. At this place I likewife had an op- 
 portunity of confirming by the evidence of fight a fact in natu- 
 ral hiftory, which 1 had before met with in feveral books of 
 travels, and had often heard related at the Cape, viz. the Angu- 
 lar conformation of the external parts of generation of fomeof 
 the Hottentot women. I firft obferved this variation in a 
 young naked girl ; and I fpoke to her concerning it. She told 
 me that thefc parts in grown-up women were alfb formed in 
 the fame mannr.r, and promifed, for a reward, to fetch one of 
 them t6 me. I gave her a florin; fhe quickly ran, and actu- 
 ally brought with her a married woman, but this woman wore 
 an apron. Another florin, however, obtained for me perraif- 
 fion to make the necefl3ry examinations, and 1 obl'erved both 
 in her and the unmarried irl the following circuinitances ? 
 The labia fnuknJi were from three to four inches long, and 
 
 formed,
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 53 
 
 kraal : I accordingly wrote a note to the propri- 
 etor, enclofing three guilders, for which I defired 
 him to fend me fome ihirts. The chief difpatched 
 a man with this note, who, in a few hours, re- 
 turned with a fmall cafk of fpirits, the three florins 
 1 had fent to pay for it, and a letter from Walther, 
 containing an invitation to viiit him the following 
 
 The leader, or chieftain, to whom I delivered 
 the brandy, gave a dram to every one prefent, 
 
 formed, over the orifice, where they were folded one over another, 
 a fort of a luck, which opens of itieif, when excited bj T the ex- 
 panding of the labia. M. Vaillant drives an extravagant de- 
 fcription of this fact, and even fays, that thole who wifh to 
 have the parts thus fhaped, hang itone* or pieces of heavy 
 metal to the labia, by which means they are lengthened as 
 above described. Every one will eaiily perceive the abfurdity 
 of this afferticn. At the Cape I heard this lingular appear- 
 ance accounted f.,x in the fame manner : bat many of the Hot- 
 tentot women with whom 1 converted on the fubjectj laughed 
 at the idea, and afiurcd me that the afsertion was iaife, and that 
 no inch means were employed. In his description of the beauty 
 and cleanlinefe of the Hottentot women, IvI. Vaillant likeulie 
 exceeds the bounds of fobe.r truth. Among the baftard Hot- 
 tentots there are indeed many beautiful and -cleanly wO: ( i>en and 
 girls; but J ohferved tew few ifuch among thole who live in 
 kraals. A high forehead, hollow eyes, fiat nofes, th"t:k lips, 
 and ihaggy woplly heads, do not in my idea comutute tyeauty. 
 
 E \ and
 
 54 TRAVELS IN' Tin; 
 
 and ordered the reft to be depofited in his hut. 
 About midnight wc went to reft ; I flept tolerably 
 well on a mat in the back part of the hut. About 
 eight o'clock in the morning r was wakened by 
 my hoft, who offered me fome milk and a piece 
 of broiled mutton ; he at the fame time entreated 
 me to ftay with him a few days longer, to which 
 I agreed. At noon I paid a vifit to Mr. Walther, 
 who received me kindly, and forbore afking any 
 queftion refpecHng the purpofe of my journey. 
 On taking leave of him, I offered to pay for the 
 brandy, but he declined accepting any money, 
 adding, that if fome day or other he fhould come 
 to the Cape, I might be able to do him a favour 
 in return, which I promifcd I would. On my re- 
 joining the kraal, I was informed, that moft of 
 the men were gone a hunting. A girl, eight years 
 old, a daughter of my hoft, was the only human 
 being I found in the hut. For fome time I was 
 unable to account for her indecent behaviour, till 
 I perceived that me had made free with the brandy 
 and Mas intoxicated. She treated me as a Hot-' 
 tcntot, with whom fhe had been long acquainted, 
 embraced me, and at laft threw hcrfelf down on 
 the ground. I endeavoured to get her to reft ; 
 ihe grew quiet, and flcpt till the evening. In the 
 meanwhile I lay down on the grafs before the hut. 
 Her father, on his return, enquired after his 
 
 daughter j
 
 IIVI IKIOH (4' AFRICA. 55 
 
 daughter ; i told him that oa my coming home, 
 I had immediately laid down in this place, and 
 therefore could not tell whether ihc was in the 
 hut or not: he went in and found her, but 
 remained ignorant or' what had happened. I con- 
 tin ued.nine days with this horde, and made fo 
 many acquaintances, that they at lalt endeavoured 
 to prevail upon me to fettle here and take a wife. 
 1. declined tui,s propofal as well as I could, but pro- 
 mifed to pay them another viht, and found an op- 
 portunity of purfuing my journey, in company 
 with four Hottentots of another kraal, "who had 
 cpme to purchafc fome fheep. All my acquaint- 
 ance were extremely concerned at my departure, 
 and I fhould have felt happy in rendering myfelf 
 ufsful to thefe good-natured people, if the plan 
 and pnrpofe of my journey had permitted me ta 
 remain longer with them. Our road lay over the 
 Milkrmountain, where we encountered many dif- 
 ficulties and troubles, our v/ay being conftantiy 
 obil rueted by brambles and reed-grafs, fo that the 
 .firft day, though we travelled only two miles, 
 we were neverthelefs extremely fatigued. We 
 palled the night on the banks of the Silver-river,* 
 
 without 
 
 * This riv.er is fmall, hut it contains water all the year 
 fouud. M. Vaihimf ha? made r;6 mention of i', ulthough, 
 
 y. i.
 
 56 Travels in the 
 
 without enjoying one moment's fleep, as the 
 wolves gathered around us, endeavouring to fall 
 upon our fheep. We durit not venture to kindle 
 a fire, left we mould be burnt in the high half- 
 dried grafs ; my fellow travellers, the Hottentots, 
 therefore, applied themfelves to making mats of 
 reed-grafs* by the light of the moon. 
 
 In the morning we reached the fummit of the 
 Milk-mountain, where we found good grafs, fat 
 down to breakfaft, and turned the fheep to graze. 
 I had fcarcely began to eat, when on looking round 
 I perceived ten men haftening up to us with the 
 utmoft fpeed : I alked my fellow travellers, who 
 
 he pretends to have croffed other rivers in the neighbourhood, 
 he mutt neccffarily have meet with the Silver-river. The wa- 
 watcr is of a good flavour, and filver colour. From the latter 
 circumllance it has, by the account of the Hottentots, obtained 
 its name. 
 
 * With this grafs they cover their huts, and render them lb 
 tight that not a drop of water can foak through them : the 
 lame is the cafe with the baikets, in which they keep the milk. 
 M. Yail'ant is miitaken when he fays that they cover their 
 huts with {kins. They had perhaps hung up Ibme fkins at 
 the top of the huts .to dry, when he enquired into their man- 
 ner of roofing their habitations. Thry drefs the {kins in this 
 way : thry take off the hair with fharp-edgcd bones, efpecially 
 with the skulls of ftieep and bullocks* greal'e them well, and 
 tc the fun to dry. 
 
 had
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 57 
 
 had not yet fecn them, whether they knew who 
 they were, and what their intentions were by their 
 making up to us. They were fo terrified at fight 
 of them that they could hardly give me an anfwer : 
 at kit, however, I underftood from them that 
 they were Bofchmen, and intended to rob them 
 of their iheep. I exhorted them to take courage, 
 prepared for defence, charged my carabine, and 
 directed my companions how to act. : I then fired 
 on the Bofchmen, and one of them fell ; the reft 
 threw fome javelins and fled.* My companions 
 were highly pleafed with my conduct, and ex- 
 prefied their efteem for me both by words and 
 geftures. We now quitted the mountain, and 
 foon reached a hamlet, where we refrefhed our- 
 felves, and afterwards purfued our journey. The 
 
 * It has been aflerted by feveral travellers, that thefe Bofchmen 
 are a baitard fpecies ot" Hottentots. M. Vaillant is of the fame 
 opinion ; but I am thoroughly convinced that there are as 
 mnny individuals of other nations among them as Hottentots. 
 Xav, Europeans fometimes take fheker among the Bofchmen, if 
 thev deiert from the fhips or the garrifons. in the very neigh- 
 bourhood of Cape-town, between Table-mount and Lion- 
 head, exius a band, compofed of fugitives of feveral nations, 
 who fubiift entirely on plunder, and at times do considerable 
 damage to the inhabitants of the town. Their nightly fires 
 W-'" ; - viiiblc from the town. 
 
 night
 
 5 S TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 night being very fine we took advantage of it, 
 and continued our journey ; in the morning we 
 reached the village where my companions lived : 
 being worn out with fatigue, and not having en- 
 joyed the lead flecp for feveral nights together, 
 1 laid down before the hut, and fell afleep. When 
 I awoke both my watch and carabine were gone : 
 fcverely hurt and terrified at this lofs, I ran into 
 the hut, but here I could obtain no tidings of 
 either ; at laft one of my fellow-travellers took me 
 into his hut, and delivered me my carabine and 
 watch. He told me that he had taken them with 
 him by way of precaution, left I mould be robbed 
 of them during my ilecp : he regaled me with 
 milk and mutton. While I was eating this Jiomely 
 meal the chieftain entered the hut, drefFed in his 
 richeft attire, bowed to me feveral times, and 
 thanked me for the afliitance I had given to his 
 comrades, relating, at the fame time, that the fame 
 Bofchmen, a few days fmce, had robbed the hamlet 
 of thirty fheep. I enquired into the ftrength of the 
 horde, and their place of refidence, and Jearned 
 that they were about thirty in number, and inha- 
 bited the Schlangenberg (Snake-mountain) about a 
 league diftant, where they had fecured themfelvcs 
 againft attack by an abattis, and by heaps of ftoncs. 
 I told the chief that it was not impoilible to fubdue 
 
 tliem^
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 59 
 
 them, and that I would lead his people on to the 
 attack, if they would affift me. Although the 
 chieftain was much pleafed with my plan, ef pe- 
 nally as it afforded an opportunity of recovering 
 the ftolen fheep, yet he made feveral objections, 
 which being refuted by me, he warmly embraced 
 my defign, encouraged his comrades to take a ihare 
 in its execution, and obferved to them that unlefs 
 the Bofchmen were diflodged from the neighbour- 
 hood, they might commit many more robberies. 
 Out of the eighty male inhabitants of the village, 
 about twenty offered to join in the expedition 
 againft the Bofchmen under my command. I de- 
 livered the neceilary inftructions, and gave orders 
 that every one fhould provide themfelves with 
 a good cudgel, a bundle of dry grafs, and fome 
 fmall dry wood. They did fo ; at the fall of night 
 we put ourfelves in motion, and advanced without 
 the leaft noife towards the mountain. Here I du 
 vided our corps into two troops ; one divifion I 
 commanded myfelf, and the other I put under the 
 orders of the chieftain. We now advanced againft 
 the firft entrenchment, which was fet on fire, and 
 the wind fnreadin<r the flames, the whole moun- 
 tain was foon in a blaze. We then took pOft again 
 at the foot of the mountain, on the {pot where 
 we thought the enemy would fally forth : we had 
 
 fcarcely
 
 60 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 fear Try occupied our poft, when we heard dread- 
 ful howls, and diicovered feveral Bofchmen, halt 
 burnt by the fire ; to terrify them ftill more, and 
 to give the Hottentots the fignal agreed on, I fired 
 upon the fugitives, who were now attacked and 
 flain by the Hottentots. Thus was this band of 
 robbers entirely deftroyed, and my friends not only 
 recovered their own fheep, but took many others 
 belonging to the enemy, which were found on the 
 other fide of the mountain. The number of Bofch- 
 men killed could not be afcertained, but the moun- 
 tain continued to burn the whole of the following 
 day. 
 
 On our return to the village we were received 
 with fhouts of acclamations, and the joy of the in- 
 habitants increafed when they faw the return of 
 their fheep, and learned that their enemies were 
 cither flain or difoerfed. I was fatigued and re- 
 tired to reft in the hut of the chieftain, but the Hot- 
 tentots palled the whole night in merriment and 
 joy. I continued about a fortnight with thefe 
 good people, by whom I was loved and refpected, 
 and who vied with each other to fupply me with 
 milk and meat, and to procure me all the comforts 
 which they had the power of bellowing. But as 
 
 the prefent feafon was the beft for travelling, I re- 
 
 lblved
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. Ct 
 
 folvcd to purfue my journey, and to avail myfelf, 
 for that purpofe, of the winter, as it is called, which 
 begins in April, and is merely diftinguifhed by fome 
 cool and rainy weather. 
 
 
 
 
 
 CHAP,
 
 6a TRAVELS IN Tilt 
 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 After taking fume Repofe in a Hottentot Village, the 
 Author bends his Courfe to the Eajlward, to the 
 Fish-river, and to take Advantage of the Winter Sea' 
 Jon, the mcji favourable for travelling, he purfues 
 his yourney with increafed Zeal, avoids the Hamlets 
 cf the Hottentots and Habitations of Planters, and 
 quits the Territory of the Company Manners a fid 
 Cujloms of the Hottentots Le Vaillant is refuted by 
 the Author, ivho vi/its MiHabrath, a Planter, and 
 at length enters Caffraria on the 2gth of March 
 Manners, Cujloms, and Ceremonies of the Cajfres 
 The Author in the Hope of meeting with Europeans 
 undertakes a Joufney in Company with twenty-feven 
 Caffrecs to the Sea Coajl, to fearch a French VeJJ'el 
 which was shipwrecked, obtains fome Booty, and 
 gains by his fuccefsful Enterprise the hove and EJleem 
 of the whole Tribe, by whom he is eleclcd Deputy, or 
 
 Under-mampa, and entreated to remain with than 
 for Life. 
 
 1LEFT the Hottentot village on the 25th of 
 March, and purfued my route to the eaftwaru, 
 to the Fifh-river, but was obliged to proceed with 
 
 considerable
 
 ANTERIOR OF AFRICA. '3 
 
 cohfiderable caution left I mould find my fclf among 
 the habitations of planters, which arc rather nu- 
 merous in this part of the country. I palled by 
 one hamlet and fpent the night in another, where 
 I was well received and entertained. This was 
 the extremity of the Company's territory, and 
 although the boundaries of Caffraria are up- 
 wards of a day's journey diftant, yet other villages 
 are to be found on the road thither. The above 
 hamlet is fituated on the Fifh-river, where it 
 branches out into two arms, one of which flows 
 between the mountains and the plantations of the 
 colony, and the other empties itfelf to the fouth- 
 ward in the above-mentioned Silver-river. 
 
 M. Vaillant has given us a defcription of the 
 manners and cuftoms of the Hottentots ; but as 
 it is not altogether true and faithful, I mall add a 
 few obfervations on the fame fubject. 
 
 The chief or chieftain of a horde is called Mon- 
 tur. This is not an hereditary dignity ; a Hotten- 
 tot, who has diftinguifhed himfelf by lbme heroic 
 exploit, for inftance, by the deftruction of a feroci- 
 ous beaft, or a victory over his enemies, is gene- 
 rally elected to that office. Each kraal, whether 
 fituated within or without the poueilion of the 
 Company, receives from them a large ftick with-a 
 
 iarge
 
 64 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 large filver knob, on which the Company's arms 
 arc engraven, and which remains conftantJy in 
 the pofletfion of the chieftain, who makes ufe of 
 it on folemn occafions. Every Hottentot receives 
 .aifo yearly two pounds of tobacco and two gal- 
 lans of brandy, in return for which he is obliged 
 to acquire fome knowledge of the Dutch tongue. 
 They who refide among the planters learn it eallly ; 
 but the reft, who inhabit diftant parts of the coun- 
 try mull endeavour to learn it by other means ; 
 for in (lance, when the Monturs go to Cape-town 
 they are obliged to take with them each a man, 
 who is employed at the Caftle to cut wood or do 
 other work, on which occaiion he learns the lan- 
 guage in his intcrcourfc with the inhabitants and 
 (bidicrs.. When the Montur comes again the fol- . 
 lowing year, he brings with him another man and 
 the former returns to his kraal.* Their filthinefs 
 
 C zi , __ : 
 
 rX 
 
 * To pronounce the language of the Hottentots, as it is pro- 
 nounced by the nati\cs, is extremely difficult to foreigners, nor 
 can the found and true pronunciation of the wotds beexprcfied 
 or roprcjciited in wjiring. It miift be heard to be imitated with 
 any dje<jf<# r{ correctneis. M. Vaillant obferves very juilly, 
 that the 1 Itjttcntot language rr>ay be learrjed, but he'fliould have 
 added, that ihe difficulty of pronouncing the confonants cor- 
 he fu'rmburitea tiy a foreigner, who, by his pro- 
 nunciation, mil afways bremliy diltinguifhej from a native. 
 
 IS
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 6$ 
 
 is almoft incredible, for they arc extremely lazy, 
 nay, are perhaps the lazieft people in the known 
 world ; in addition to which, in many parts of 
 the country they are in great want of water. The 
 mod fruitful foil remains without culture, and it 
 is only here and there the traveller meets with 
 fome Indian corn. The rearing of cattle and hunt- 
 ing form their chief employment, and indeed they 
 only refort to the latter, when compelled by necef- 
 fity or want the means of fubfiftence. They oc- 
 cupy themfelves very little with the nfhery, al- 
 though they might catch plenty of fifli, efpecially 
 during the winter. Several inftances are known of 
 the Hottentots preferring feveral days hunger to th 
 trouble of procuring proviiions. A variety of of- 
 fers have been made them on the part of the Com- 
 pany, fuch as nets, corn, and habitations, in the 
 vicinity of the Cape, if they would become more 
 induftrious and active. But all thefe offers have 
 been rejected, left they mould be forced to do more 
 work than they chofe to do. They prefer their 
 indolent life in their deferts, amidft all manner of 
 mifery and hlthinefs, and are fuch cowards that 
 they fuffer themfelves to be driven by the CafFres 
 to the fouth, and again by the Bofchmen to the 
 eaft, whereas if they chofe to act with fpirit they 
 might foon render themfelves formidable to their 
 enemies.' The women occupy themfelves chiefly 
 
 F with
 
 66 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 with the management of the houfe, but are rather 
 vain and fond of drefs. A child is a great trea- 
 sure for the mother ; the hufband has no right to 
 truil his own child, as long as it fucks, although 
 the wife is his flave. This privilege of the mo- 
 ther is owing to the favage cruelty of fome fathers, 
 who, at the time when the Portuguefe were in the 
 habit of vifiting the country, fold their little chil- 
 dren for fome brandy or tobacco. A child fucks 
 four months, and is carried by the mother in day- 
 time on her back, and in the night before her, 
 wrapped up in a fhcep-fkin. After that time it is 
 put on mats on the grafs, and receives the fame 
 food as the reft of the family. The women apply 
 thcmfelves with much care to the breeding of 
 cattle, but M. Vaillant's account " that in milking 
 their cows, while one woman holds the animal's 
 teat another blows with great violence into her 
 vagina,' * is void of foundation. I have paid parti- 
 cular attention to their way of milking, and never 
 obferved any fuch thing ; nor can I agree to his 
 aiTertion, u that if a calf happens to die, the Hot- 
 tentots preferve the fkin very carefully, and wrap- 
 it round the body of another calf," for they are 
 ti.o c.aitious in this refpect, as is evident from their 
 general cuftom of interring all kinds of dead cattle- 
 at fome leagues diftance from the kraal. Their 
 ncr i managing the dead has given me great 
 
 fitisfaction.
 
 int;;hior ofafrica. 67 
 
 fatisfaction. They bury none without having 
 previoully made repeated attempts to recall him 
 to life. Such as die of chronical difeafes are 
 beaten and fhaken, and if there appear no figns 
 of life they are buried the fame day, after another 
 trial has been made to reftore them to life ; but at 
 the death of a young perfon, efpecially when the 
 deceafed died fuddenly, many other experiments 
 are made. The foles of the feet are ripped open 
 with a haffagay,* a red hot iron is held under the 
 nofe, and the whole body is rubbed. If no veftiges 
 of life can be difcovered, the deceafed is interred 
 on the following evening. Dead perfons are im- 
 mediately removed out of the hut and watched 
 by fome of the family, and this is continued twen- 
 ty-eight days after their interment, to prevent 
 wild beafts from fcratching the dead body out of 
 the ground. As to the ceremonies and feveral 
 peculiar cuftoms of the Hottentots, M. Vaillant's 
 travels may be confuited. I have here defcribed 
 fuch cuftoms only as have not been correctly de- 
 lineated by that writer. 
 
 On the 25th I continued my journey along the, 
 banks of the Fifli-river. On my fetting out I ob- 
 
 * The points of the haflagays are only poifoned wjben they 
 inarch againfi enemies. 
 
 F 2 ferved
 
 63 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 fervctl feveral kraals on my right and left, which 
 are very numerous in this part of the country, on 
 account of the rich paftures and good water ; but 
 thefe were the laft i could difcover. I paffed the 
 night in a bum near the river, made a meal of the 
 mutton which 1 had taken with me, and kindled a 
 fire. The next morning I reached the neighbour- 
 hood of Mr. Habrath's plantation ; I endeavoured 
 to pafs unnoticed, but was difcovered by Mr. Ha- 
 brath himfelf, who was engaged in a hunting ex- 
 curfion. He treated me with apparent civility, and 
 invited me to his houfe ; this invitation I endea- 
 voured to decline, becaufe I thought it rather un- 
 fafe to accept it. But Mr. Habrath obferving my 
 embarrailment, told me that he perceived I was a 
 deferter, but that he mould not ftop me. I replied, 
 that if he did, he ihouki at leaft not take me back 
 tp the Cape alive. He thereupon requefted that I 
 would ftay with him for fome length of time, and 
 provilionally accept the place of a mafter, whom he 
 was iti want of. I promifed to comply with his 
 with, but alked leave, before I fettled with him, to 
 make a journey into Caffraria, to which he agreed. 
 I let out accordingly, and reached Bruynhoogte 
 (BruynVheight), which is ajfo called Brunynejies 
 Hftogte, where I found a horde of Hottentots. To 
 the fouthward I law the laft plantation, clofetothe 
 borders of CafTVaria : here I found a delightful 
 
 country,
 
 INTERIOR OI* AFRICA. 69 
 
 country* and a fine plain, -which is twelve miles in 
 length, and five in breadth, ami ft retches along the 
 CafTrarian mountains. On the 29th I entered Caf- 
 fraria, v/liere I encountered many difficulties and 
 dangers : I had to afcend fteep mountains, and it 
 was with confiderable trouble that I reached the 
 valley before the fall of night. I found feveral old 
 empty huts, -one of which I chofe for my night 
 quarters : the inhabitants had probably quitted 
 them on account of the want of water. At break 
 of day I was awakened by the howling of a imall 
 herd of wolves, which approached my hut, but 
 ibon retired. I now purfued my route to north- 
 eaft, and paffed a fmall mountain, covered with 
 high reed-grafs, which greatly obftructed my pro* 
 grefs. Shortly after I waded through a river fix 
 feet broad and four feet deep, which flowed from 
 eaft to weft, and whofe water was of a reddifh caft 
 and fourifh tafte. On the ift of April I travelled 
 on a good and eafy road, and traverfed a fine and 
 fruitful valley between two ridges of mountains. 
 At noon I difcovered to the fouthward fome huts, 
 built on the heights ; I made towards them, and 
 reached them in the evening, Near them I met 
 three armed Caffres, who accofted me, and, as far 
 as I could interpret their words and geitures, ad- 
 drefled to me the following queries : Whither are 
 you going ? Whence are you .coming ? Are you a 
 
 F 3 planter ?
 
 jq TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 planter ? I anfwered, that I came from the Cape, 
 and -was a deferter. I was now permitted to enter 
 the kraal, which I did, but at the fame time in- 
 fmuated to them with words and geftures, that 
 they mould not take my firelock from me. The 
 kraal confuted of twenty-two huts, and, feemed to 
 contain a confiderable number of inhabitants in 
 proportion to its fize. On my arrival they were 
 ftanding before their huts, and ftared at me ; fome 
 of them, however, ventured to draw near, and 
 feemed to afk my attendants who 1 was, and what 
 was my buiinefs in their kraal. The xnampa, 
 that is, the chieftain, a young man, viewed me 
 from head to foot, and afked whether I chofe to 
 drink fome milk ? I feigned not to underftand him, 
 but he took me by the hand, conducted me into 
 his hut, where a mat was fpread on the ground, 
 and made a fignal that I fhould fit down, lie was 
 then going to take my firelock from me, and put 
 it in a corner, but I would not permit him ; I 
 mowed him that it was loaded, extracted the ball, 
 and kid the firelock in a corner near mc. I won- 
 dered at my hoft's mowing fo much indifference 
 on this occafion, which I afcribed to his being un- 
 acquainted with that kind of weapon, but was on 
 the next day convinced of my error. His wife 
 brought me fome milk in a very fine bafket, and 
 &me roafted Indian corn : when I had fmiflied my 
 
 flipper
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 71 
 
 fupper I lay down on the mat ; they rave me a 
 buffalo's hide for a covering, and my knapiack 
 ferved infteadof a pillow ; thus I flept quietly and 
 fecurely in the midlt of thefe rude ions of nature, 
 who have been decried as cruel and lavage bar- 
 barians, It was eight o'clock on the following 
 morning before I awoke : I found no one in the 
 hut but myfelf, and on turning my eyes towards 
 my baggage, I miffed my gun and my powder and 
 ball. Suppofing that they had perhaps been re- 
 moved to fome other part of the hut, 1 fearched 
 for them but in vain. I refolved to sro out in 
 queft of my hoft : juft as I was palling through the 
 opening of the hut, I met the mampa coming to- 
 wards me with the gun in his hand, He began to 
 laugh aloud, and made various motions with the 
 gun, like one who well knew how to ufe it, It 
 gave me great pleafure to fee my gun again ; and 
 the powder and balls were likewife reftored to me. 
 In the mean while fome warm milk and broiled 
 mutton was brought me for breakfaft : I ate hear- 
 tily, while my hofpitable holt endeavoured to enter 
 into converfation with me. Although I did not 
 underftand him, yet I conjectured that he was 
 fpeaking about mooting, as he often put himfelt 
 in the pofture of a perfon in the act. of firing a gun. 
 At length two of his friends, who dwelt in the 
 
 F 4 lame
 
 ;_ TRAVFL? IN'TIW 
 
 fame hut with him, brought an umripat,* in 
 which I immediately obferved the wound caufed 
 by the ball with which it had been mot ;| and 
 this circumftance explained to me what had 1 been 
 the purport of the mampa's previous converfation. 
 They fkinned it and cut it in pieces } fome of 
 which they immediately broiled on the coals. Af- 
 ter dinner I expreffed a wifh to puriue my journey, 
 but was requefted to prolong my ftay, and to ac- 
 company them to the chafe. Four other Cafires 
 joined us, one of whom underftood a little Dutch, 
 which he had learned at the Cape ; he defired me 
 to (hoot at a gems-buck ; I replied, that we mould 
 probably meet with fome more valuable game ; 
 but if the mampa wimed to make a trial with my 
 gun, it was at his fervice. He accepted my offer 
 with pleasure, and mot, out of a herd Of twenty, 
 an old and a young buck ; at which fuccefs he 
 greatly rejoiced. 1 alked where he had learned to 
 ufe fire-arms, as I had not fecn any in the kraal. 
 
 
 *-A kind of antelope, having a fpotted fkin like a tyger. 
 
 v,nc carried a ball weighing two ounce*, and 
 moft of thole ufed at the Cape are of the fame width of bore, 
 therefore they kill the wild beans with the greater certainty. 
 Theft-, as woU a? thofr rarning a ball of three or four our. 
 arehnpoVt^frcrnEngl^ . i. 
 
 The
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 75- 
 
 The Cafire now related to me, that they had onee 
 purchafed fome fire-arms, in exchange for flieep, 
 from their neighbours, the Tambukinians : but 
 hoftilities having -fubfifted between them and. their 
 neighbours for a confiderable time paft, no more 
 powder and lead could be obtained j they had, 
 therefore, with much trouble, converted the muf- 
 kets into javelins. When we returned to the 
 kraal, the mampa, with; myfelf and fome others, 
 went round in proceffion to invite the horde to a 
 feftivai, which was to be celebrated the next day, 
 in commemoration of a victory that had been. 
 gained over their enemies three years before. This 
 evening all was very ftill and quiet in the kraal; 
 but early in the following morning, I heard people 
 talking! and walking about, when no one in our 
 hut, except myfelf, was yet awake. I arofe, and 
 tried to open the door, but in vain, it was fattened 
 in a hngular manner. In the kraals of the Caffres 
 the doors are not fecured by locks made of iron, 
 but by feveral pieces of wood, ingenioufly con- 
 trived to anfwer that purpofe. Soon after they 
 knocked at our hut and at others where the ihha^ 
 bitants were yet afleep, and began to fing. All 
 now ftarted from their couches, and upon quitting 
 the hut, we found that the ground in front of it, 
 and the hut itfelf, were covered with palm-branches. 
 The people now preffed around the mampa, and 
 
 decorated
 
 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 decorated him with two branches of palm, which 
 they ituck under the belt with which he had in- 
 circled his hair, fo that it feemed as if he wore a 
 pair o flag's horns on his head. Two fimilar 
 branches were put into his hands ; and the procef- 
 iion then began to move. They paraded three 
 times round every hut of the kraal, which cere- 
 mony lafted two hours : a large fire was then kind- 
 led in the middle of the kraal, around which moft 
 of them feated themfelves, and began to fing. As 
 yet the women had taken no part in the celebra- 
 tion of the feftival ; but as foon as the men had 
 taken their feats, they too made their appearance. 
 Each of them bore in their hands two palm- 
 branches, which were prefented, with various ce- 
 remonies, by the married women to their huf- 
 bands, and by the maidens to the fingle young men. 
 All then joined in a dance around the fire, into 
 which they at laft threw the palm-branches. The 
 women then repaired to their huts and brought 
 milk, which was drank by the men j who had again 
 feated themfelves. Two young men and two 
 maidens were now conducltd within the ring, to 
 be joined in wedlock, which ceremony was per- 
 formed .in the following manner : the mothers, 
 leading their daughters with one hand, and bear- 
 ing in. the other hand two balkets with milk, ap- 
 proached the fire ; when about fix paces dittant 
 
 from
 
 INTERIOR OB AFRICA. J$, 
 
 from it, they halted, and then the fathers of the 
 two young woman Hepped forth, took off their, 
 daughters' fmall aprons, and conducted them quite 
 naked to their future hufbands.* Thefe received 
 their brides, and were informed what dower they 
 were to have with them. The dower confifled o 
 a few fheep and buffaloes, with fome other articles. 
 During the treaty about the dower, the mother 
 approached fome what nearer, and prefented to each 
 of the new-married folks, a fmall bafket with milk, 
 whereupon the neareft relatives likewife approached 
 to conclude and fettle the barsrain about the dower. 
 As foon as they had come to an agreement on that 
 point to the fatisiaction of all parties, milk was 
 handed round the ring, and each father delivered 
 up his daughter's apron to his fon-in-law, w*hc, 
 again bound it round his bride, with many cere- 
 monies, which fignified that no other perfon had; 
 a right to tie or untie it in future. Several fheep, 
 were immediately killed, the flefli of which was 
 broiled and diftributed to all prefent, who conti- 
 nued to divert themfelvcs with finging and danc- 
 ing till iate at night, when they retired, the two 
 your.g brides returning to the habitations of their 
 
 * The father performs this ceremony for the purpofe of prov- 
 ing the chaftity of his daughter, and to {hew to the bridegroom. 
 that fiie never had connexion with any man. 
 
 fathers.
 
 76 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 fathers. On the following day, a hut is built, for 
 the young couple by their neareft relatives, which 
 is covered with hides, till proper mats can be pre- 
 pared : the bridegroom and bride, accompanied 
 by their friends, then go and take pofTefiion there- 
 of, and of their dower. The oldeft perfon of each 
 family punifhes and decides flight offences and 
 difputes. But on capital crimes the whole horde 
 paffes fentence, 
 
 Though the mampa treated me as a friend, yet 
 I was not invited to join the company, but re- 
 mained quietly fitting before the hut, whence 
 I could diftinctly obferve every thing that pafled. 
 The young man who underftood a little Dutch, 
 brought me fome milk and fleih, and told me, 
 that, being a ftranger, I could not be admitted to 
 take part in this feaft. In the evening I lay down 
 behind the hut, and, after having fpent fome hours 
 in pondering on my future fate, I fell into a pro- 
 found fleep. At break of day I awoke, and found 
 that my hoft had covered me with a buffalo-hide. 
 I arofe, and refolved to recommence my journey : 
 but the door of the hut was fattened, and my ca-, 
 rabine and baggage I could not leave behind me. 
 'Ihe fun had riien to a coniidcrable height before 
 the hut was opened ; and then the mampa's wife 
 came, forth to go to nulk her cows. I requefted 
 
 of
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. Jj 
 
 of her by figns to bring out my baggage ; but flie 
 gave me to underftand that ihe durft not do fo 
 without the knowledge of her hufband, who was 
 yet afleep. She invited me to accompany her y 
 which I did without reflecting on the danger I 
 might thereby incur, iis the men are exceflively 
 jealous. She called to the women in the neigh- 
 bouring huts, who came out and followed hen 
 The herd was feeding on a beautiful plain at the 
 diftance of about a quarter of a mile from the 
 kraal : it was very numerous, and looked better 
 than feveral others which I had already feen. Two 
 perfons are generally employed in milking one 
 cow ; one holding the animal, whilft the other 
 milks her with great dexterity and expedition : 
 two houfewives, therefore, generally go as part- 
 ners, mutually to ailift one another in this employ- 
 ment. The cows of this country give very little 
 milk. I obferved that my hoftefs obtained fcarcely 
 five quarts from fix cows, and yet this was the 
 feafon of the year when they generally yield the 
 greateft quantity. Perhaps the exceflive heat may 
 have, in this refpect, an unfavourable influence. 
 The herdfmen likewife often defraud the proprie- 
 tors, by clandeftinely milking the cows. The 
 Caffres are accuftomed to twift the horns of their 
 cattle into many different forms, and to engrave 
 various figures upon them. This they do from 
 
 motives
 
 78 Travels in the 
 
 . 
 motives of prudence. Their herds are fomefimes 
 
 difturbed and difperfed by wolves and tygers ; and 
 if on fuch occafions any of the cattle ftray into 
 other herds, the herdimen are able from thefe 
 figures to diftinguifh to what kraal they belong. 
 Sometimes they fplit the horns, and turn each 
 part in an oppolite direction, every one endea- 
 vouring alio to add fome private marks diffe- 
 rent from thofe of the other inhabitants. 
 
 The mampa had, during my abfence, been look- 
 ing for me through the whole kraal ; and when 
 he faw me returning with the women, he expreiled 
 great joy, came to meet me, and afked me, by 
 means of %ns, where I had been. When I had 
 informed him, he laughed, took me by the hand, 
 and con dueled me to the hut, where Ills wife 
 handed round fome warm milk to drink, and he 
 himfelf brought me a piece of flefh, preffing me to 
 eat heartily. m Here I muft remark that the Caifres 
 are very temperate in eating- and drinking, for I 
 could frequently have taken more than my por- 
 tion of meat and milk. 
 
 When I had breakfalled, I fignified to my hofpi- 
 table hoft that 1 wifhed to purfue my journey, and 
 put two florins into his hand. He looked at them 
 for fome time, but at length gave me them back 
 
 again,
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. J(J 
 
 again, and taking my baggage from me* requefted 
 me to remain with them that day at leaft. Hav- 
 ing delivered my baggage to his wife, he took me 
 by the hand, and pulled me after him, for at fir ft I 
 made fome rehftance ; thus he conducted me to 
 a thicket, where we found feveral men bunly em- 
 ployed in breaking branches from the bufhes, and 
 cutting down fome of the larger trees. They in- 
 vited me to join them ; and accordingly I collect- 
 ed a bundle of boughs, and taking it upon my 
 moulders, followed the others, who had laden 
 themfelves with the branches and the larger Hems 
 for building. With thefe materials, in lefs than 
 two hours, two huts were conftructed for the 
 young folks who had been married on the pre- 
 ceding clay. After this work was finifhed, they 
 indulged freely in mirth, danced and fung, and 
 formed a ring round each of the huts. Oghaiig, 
 (plums) baton 7, (a kind of millet) and metis, (In- 
 dian corn) were diflributed as a refrefhment to the 
 company, and fome of the fame articles were hung 
 upon the huts, as a wedding-gift to the newly- 
 married folks. Not to be behind in liberality, I 
 fufpended a guilder to each of the huts, and per- 
 ceived that the brides and bridegrooms were very 
 much pleafed with this prefent. I became very 
 cheerful, and only lamented, that I did not under- 
 ftand their language. I danced with one of the 
 
 young
 
 8o TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 young women, and fung fome German fongs, to 
 which the company liftencd with great attention. 
 When I rofe to dance, I by miftake finglcd out a 
 young married woman for my partner, but was 
 immediately reproved by her hufband, and fhould 
 probably have received fome ill ufage from him, 
 if the mampa had not interpofed, and told him 
 that I was unacquainted with the cuftoms of the 
 country. They then brought me a young maiden, 
 without an apron, with whom I was at liberty t 
 dance and fkip about as much as I pleafed. 
 
 On the following morning, being firmly re- 
 folved to take my leave of the mampa, I prefented 
 two florins to him, which he refufed to accept ; 
 but finding that I perfifted, he at length took them 
 and gave them to his wife ; however, when I like- 
 wife made her a prefent of two florins, he took his 
 , own again, and heartily thanked mc. Having given 
 mefome roafted meat to take with me, and conveyed 
 me to the extremity of his territory (about half a 
 German mile) where we cordially took leave of each 
 other. I now directed my courfe towards the Eu- 
 rekoha. The kraals which I had left confided of 
 twenty-two huts, containing about three hundred 
 inhabitants. It was fituated on the right of the 
 Fifh-river between a chain of mountains, which 
 is faiil to be eight days journey in length, and is 
 
 interfered 
 
 r
 
 Interior of Africa. 8i 
 
 interfered more than once by the above-men- 
 tioned river, which here and there branches out 
 into feveral diftincl: ftreams ; but thefe afterwards 
 ^oin again.* Towards evening I croffed this river, 
 its depth being at that time no more than three 
 feet ; and halted for the right at a fmall thicket, 
 on an eminence near the oppofite bank, where I 
 kindled a fire, and having gathered fome mufcles 
 I roafted them for my fimpcr. In the night I per- 
 ceived a large fire on the mountains before me ; 
 from. which circumftance I conjectured that there 
 muft be a kraal in the neighbourhood, and that 
 the herdfmen belonging to it had kindled the fire 
 for the purpofe of fecurity of their cattle againfl 
 the attacks of wolves and tygers. This gave me 
 ;great pleafure. Having fallen aileep I did not 
 
 * M. Vaiilant's defcription of the courfe of this river is in- 
 accurate. It takes its rite in the Hahoromto Mountains, lying 
 oppofite to the Snowy Mountains, and thence flows with many 
 winding* as fax as the mountain Jacata, the highefi within a 
 -compais of three hundred miles ; whence it runs in a ftraight 
 direction to the fea. M. Vaillant pretends to have made an 
 excurfion out of his way, for the purpofe of vifiting the Fiih- 
 Tiver : but this is not piobable; for in that cafe he muft not 
 only have travelled fix or eight days before he could reach it, 
 but he muft likewife have croifed a large chain of mountains, 
 in the vallies of which there are immenfe morafies. It was not 
 the Fifli- river, therefore^ that he faw, but the Sangue-river. 
 
 G awake
 
 8* TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 awake till eight o'clock on the following morning', 
 when I immediately fet forward, and at noon 
 fafely arrived at the place where I had fcen the 
 fire burning the preceding night. Here I met 
 two young Caffres : who at firft ran away, nor 
 would they ftop till I had called out to them : taba 
 hara, i. e. 5f I am a friend." I endeavoured to 
 learn from them where the habitations of their 
 horde were fituated : and they fignified to me 
 that the kraal lay at no great diftance, immedi- 
 ately behind the mountain. The younger of them 
 accompanied me thither as a guide ; and when 
 we arrived, lie exclaimed, ma hara tuko, ma 
 hara tuko ! i. e. " A white friend, a white friend 1" 
 on which more than fifty perfons of both fexes 
 came running out of their huts towards me. An 
 old man, who yet remained at fome diftance, held 
 out his hand towards me, and laid Hogafamaytuko? 
 i. e. " Whence comeft thou, friend r" 1 anfwered, 
 Bikagari Knatuore : i. e. " I am a Dutch deferter." 
 My young guide was now ordered to conduct me 
 to the hut of the old man, where they fpread out 
 a mat for. me to lit down on. Old and young 
 crouded round me, ftared at me, laughed, and at 
 kft began to teafe me ; one pufhing me with his 
 fmger, another pulling me by the hair, and a 
 third by the coat. This gave me fome uneafmefs, 
 and I was at a lofs as to what I mould do to get 
 
 rid
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 83 
 
 nil of them ; at length I iliewed them my carabine, 
 but to no purpofe. The old man, however, ob 
 ferving that this treatment was difagreeable to 
 me, endeavoured to make me comprehend, that 
 they had no intention to infult or offend me, 
 and that it was merely from curiofity that they 
 handled me fo, as they had never before feen a 
 white man. My fears now vanifhed ; and when 
 they again began to pull me by the hair I quickly 
 feized one of the young girls by the arm and killed 
 her ; whereupon all the by-ftanders burft into a 
 loud laugh. Several of them exclaimed, Naghaip- 
 H 9 naghaipti I i. e. " That is pretty, that is pretty 1" 
 As for the girl, fhe lay quietly in my arms, and 
 feemed very well pleafed. When the old man 
 brought me fome melis and milk, this girl ran 
 and fetched me a veffel full of excellent goat's milk. 
 She had told her mother that I had kiffed her, 
 which brought the old woman herfelf to the hut 
 where I was, and I concluded, from the fatisfaction 
 apparent in her countenance, that me was pleafed 
 with me ; (lie even offered me a hut, and expreffed 
 to me by figns her wiih, that I would remain 
 there ; and this feemed likewife to be the wiih of 
 the old man. That I might not feem to reject 
 their kind offer with difdain, I anfwered, that I 
 fhould firll make a journey through the country, 
 and then return, if their countrymen did not kill 
 
 G 2- me.
 
 84 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 me. This propofal was approved of; they acfc- 
 vifed me, however, to avoid the roving hordes of 
 Tambukinians, who, for the lake of a trifling 
 booty, would not fcruple to rob and murder even 
 the natives of the country. It may not be impro- 
 per to remark here, that in the fequel I experi- 
 enced quite the contrary, and found other tribes 
 more rapacious than the Tambukinians. I was 
 very careful not to produce any of my money 
 here, left I mould excite their cupidity, and thus 
 expofe myielf to the danger of being robbed. My 
 heart became even more and more oppreffed with 
 anxietv, when I reflected that I was now wander- 
 ing about among lavage tribes, in continual danger 
 of being murdered, and that greater danger and 
 hardlhips yet awaited me than thofe to which I had 
 hitherto been expofed. I was ignorant of the 
 roads, under flood but very few words of the lan- 
 guage, and was unacquainted with the qualities of 
 hardly any of the roots and herbs growing in the 
 country. My cloaths were already in rags, and 
 others could not be obtained. My fmall flock of 
 gun-powder could not laft much longer ; and 
 when it was expended how fliould I be able to de- 
 fend myfelf from the attacks of hoflile men and 
 ferocious animals ! After pondering for fome time 
 on thefe impending evils, I could fcarcely relifli 
 any food, and my body became weak and emaci- 
 ated.
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 85 
 
 ated. Convinced however that, unlefs I chofe to 
 remain among the Caffres, I mull purfue my jour- 
 ney; I fubmitted with refignation to the will of 
 Providence, and tlie agitation of my mind iub- 
 fided 
 
 Before I departed on the following morning, the 
 old man told me that, about lago o'utp (i. e. accord- 
 ing to their mode of reckoning, fifteen full-moons) 
 before, he had feen in the Koro Khaia (Salt-moun- 
 tains) fome perfons who reiembled me in colour, 
 and wore fimilar cloaths and hats. I enquired in 
 what direction thefe mountains lay, and he pointed 
 towards the eaft, where I faw a fmall chain of 
 mountains before me. The old man was likewife 
 of opinion, that the fea, whence the white ftran? 
 gers had come, was only about five days journey 
 diftant from thefe mountains. On hearing this 
 intelligence, my defpondency immediately gavQ 
 way to joy ; for I confidently hoped to meet with 
 fome Europeans, in company with whom I might 
 continue my journey. It may be necerTary here 
 to inform my readers, that whenever I fpeak of 
 having converfed with the Caffres, it is to be un? 
 derftood in a limited fenfe : we only endeavoured 
 mutually to communicate our ideas fometimes by 
 fmgle words, but ftill more generally by figns and 
 geftures. To reach that part of the country to 
 
 G 3 which
 
 $6 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 which the old Caffre had pointed, I was under 
 the necefiity of going back halt" a day*s journey, 
 for the purpofe of eroding the Fifh-river : and I 
 halted again at the fame place where I had flept 
 two nights before. In the morning I purfued my 
 journey hi an oblique direction acrofs the chain of 
 mountains ; but had innumerable obftades and 
 difficulties to overcome Expofed to the fcorch- 
 ing rays of the fun, I was obliged to climb from 
 rock to rock, in continual danger of tumbling 
 down headlong, and miferably perifhing in the 
 abyfs below. If I came to a place where the trees 
 might afford me fome flielter, I was under the ne- 
 ceffity of forcing my way through the high reed- 
 grafs ; and I was continually difappointed in my 
 fearch for freih water. Among the reed-grafs 
 indeed I fometimes met with fmall pools, but the 
 water emitted a horrid ftench and fwarxned with 
 infefts. I therefore once fhot a gems-buck, and 
 rcfreihed myfelf with his blood. I likewife took 
 one of the haunches with me, but was obliged to 
 throw it away, as the fcent of it attracted the 
 wolves and tygers. 
 
 At length on the third, day, I defcended from 
 this ridge of mountains, and entered a fruitful 
 plain, where however I could not find any water < 
 Of the many different kinds of trees that grew 
 
 here,
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 8j 
 
 here, one of them refembled an oak, and produced 
 a yellow fruit fimilar to fome of our plums. I 
 eagerly devoured five or lix of them, the tafte of 
 which was at firft agreeable, but at length fo ex- 
 ceedingly acerb, as to make my mouth bleed. I 
 took, however, a few of them in my poqket, to 
 be ufed in cafes of extreme neceflity ; , and having 
 roafted them on the coals, in the evening, I found 
 that they then tailed much better. In the interior 
 of the country I afterwards met with many fuch 
 trees, but was more cautious in eating their fruit ; 
 which by fome is called ohegma, and by others, 
 beyond Cam-aria, ogheyhe Being now quite ex- 
 haufted with thirll and fatigue, I began to look 
 around for fome wholefome water, and whilft thus 
 employed, I efpied a large kraal : this gave me 
 mexpreiuble joy, as 1 was fure to find water in its 
 neighbourhood. Accordingly I foon came to a 
 fpring, and immediately lay down to quench my 
 thirft. Certain I am, that this water was more 
 delicious to my palate than is the moft coftly wines, 
 to that of the pampered epicure. I did not intend 
 to enter the kraal, partly becaufe I was .afraid of 
 being ill-treated there, and partly becaufe I wifhed 
 to proceed with all poffible expedition, towards 
 the place where the old CarTre had fcen-.-the Euro- 
 peans ; but juft as I was fitting out, fcveral young 
 women came to the well to fetch water. l?5e 
 
 G 4 moment
 
 88 TRAVELS IN TH 
 
 moment they faw me, they threw down their 
 pitchers, fcreamed, and fled to the kraal. Having 
 filled my calebafh, I followed them, and when 
 within a few yards of the neareft huts, I met about 
 twenty Caffres armed with clubs advancing to- 
 wards me : one of thefe demanded, to what nation 
 I belonged? upon which I pointed towards the weft. 
 The man then feized my carabine, which I fur- 
 rendered to him without refinance ; acquainting 
 him, however,by means of %ns,that it was loaded. 
 He cautioufly laid hold of it with boih hands, 
 pointing the muzzle upwards ; and giving me a 
 wink to follow him, he conducted me to a grafs- 
 plot in the centre of the kraal, where I fat down, 
 and fcon faw myfelf furrounded by feveral hun- 
 dred perfons. In the mean time my conductor 
 had walked off with my carabine : I rofe up, looked 
 round, and not feeing him, bcggel of the by- 
 ftanders, by means of figns, to inform me whither 
 he was gone. They fhewed me his hut, and en- 
 deavoured to quiet my apprehenlions ; whereupon 
 I refeated myfelf, and having requefted fome food, 
 pne of them immediately brought me a cake * 
 
 Th?s cake is made of a kind of millet called Myluova. 1$ 
 is p-nmded in the excavated trunk of a tree, and then boiled 
 with milk and water; the parte thus prepared is laid in- the i'ua 
 $o dry,' and afterwards baked on the coals. 
 
 which
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. Sty 
 
 *vhich was full of coals and allies, and of an un- 
 plcafant tafte, but which my appetite being keen, I 
 ate greedily. Two Caffres now approached me; 
 and fomc of the by-ftanders intimating, by means 
 of a fignificant wink, that one of them was the 
 perfon who had carried away my gun, I looked 
 earneftly at him, which he perceiving, behaved in 
 a friendly manner towards me, and made me fomc 
 expreflive figns, from which I might conclude, that 
 he had only put my carabine in a place of fafety, 
 without intention to keep it. His companion, a 
 man more advanced in years, but tall and robiift, 
 W^s ftill more kind and confiderate. He advifed 
 the by-ftanders to give me femething to drink, and 
 not to fuffer me to fit fo expefed to the rays of the 
 fun. .At length he fignified to me by a motion of 
 his club, to follow him ; and he conducted me to 
 a bench in the {hade, behind his hut, where I fat 
 down, and partook of fome milk, which was pre- 
 fented to me by a young woman, in a veflel made 
 of an excavated piece of wood. When I had relied 
 and refreihed myfelf, I fignified, that I wimed to 
 proceed on my journey: whereupon my holpita- 
 ble hoft |ent the young woman to fetch my 
 gun, with which me returned without delay; 
 at the fame time a man made his appearance, who 
 iinderftood fomething of the Dutch language, 
 and he afked me, whence' I came, and whither I 
 
 was
 
 go TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 was going, &c. I told him, that I had come from 
 the Cape, and was going to that part of the globe, 
 from whence (hips failed*. My landlord fet up a 
 loud laugh on hearing the purpoie of my jour- 
 ney, and bid the interpreter to inform me, that I 
 could not traverfe the poffeflions of die other na- 
 tions, without expohng my life to the moft immi- 
 nent danger; and that, therefore, it would be 
 moft prudent to remain where I was fure to find 
 affiftance and fupport. The interpreter told me 
 further, that a fhort time before, a veflel had been 
 wrecked near the coaft, many people belonging 
 to which, had taken refuge in this diftrict, but, on 
 proceeding further, had been robbed and mur- 
 dured by the neighbouring nations. My landlord 
 fetched two fwords, a new piftol, and fome gold 
 coins out of his hut, which he had received from 
 thefe people*. The French arms were engraved on 
 
 every 
 
 * The fea being at po very confiderable diftance, they were 
 not unacquainted with ihips. 
 
 f Moft of thefe people difplayed tljeir riches in a manner fo 
 inconfiderate and ill-judged, that their atfldTination was entirely 
 owing to this circmnftance. A ihort time before my departure 
 from the Cape, two fcamen were apprehended by the planters, 
 and imprifoncd; they belonged to the fame fhip, but could not 
 point out the place where ihe was wrecked. By their account 
 an mfurrc&ioa had had taken place on board the fhip, in 
 
 which
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA, 9t 
 
 every one of thefe articles, and I regretted moil 
 fincerely, that I had not met with their former 
 owners. In order to afcertain the point, whether 
 the neighbouring diftricts were actually as barba- 
 rous as they had been defcribed, I determined to 
 ftay here a few days longer, in order to collect au- 
 thentic information on that head. Being treated 
 with much kindnefs and refpect, and frequently 
 invited to ftay as long as I pleafed, I continued 
 here four weeks, before I fet out on my further 
 journey. I had many opportunities of obferving 
 the manners and cuft6ms of this horde, but fhall 
 confine myfelf to fuch particulars as have not been 
 
 corre&ly 
 
 which all the officers had loft their lives; that thereupon the 
 inlurgents had run the fhip on ihore, fupplied themfelves with 
 money and other valuable articles, and proceeded into the in- 
 terior of the country ; that for two month? together the whole 
 troop had wandered from place to place, and had afterwards 
 been attended by a great number of Africans, who had robbed 
 and killed 'many of them, fo that of the whole four men only 
 had made their efcape. Two of thefe afterwards died of their 
 wounds, and they being the only two furvivors, had journied 
 on in f earth of the Cape. They pretended to have taken no 
 fhare in the infurredtion, and for this reafon to have been feyc- 
 ral times in danger of being murdered by their ferocious com- 
 rades. The French Conful caufed them to be conveyed to the 
 jfiand where prisoners are confined, and lent them afterwards 
 where' they were probably condemned to imprifonment for life, 
 or fuifercd death,
 
 " TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 correctly delineated by M. Vaillant. This gentle- 
 man pretends to have feen, that the women in Caf- 
 fraria fabricate earthen ware ; an aflertion, which 
 I muft fiatly contradict. In a trad of country, of 
 from fifteen to eighteen hundred miles in extent, 
 earthen-ware is an article utterly unknown. It is 
 manufactured at the Cape, and on the coaft of 
 Congo, but in the intermediate fpace, no fuch ma- 
 nufactory is to be found. Bafkets made of 
 twigs and rufhes, excavated trunks of trees, and 
 fhells of gourds fupply the place of earthen ware. 
 Vaillant frequently attributes to the tribes which 
 he pretends to have vifited, things which they are 
 entirely ignorant of, and on the other hand takes 
 to himfelf the merit of having inftrucled them in 
 matters, with which they have been acquainted for 
 ages. Thus he ftates with a deal of complacency the 
 wonderful impreffions which a pair of bellows of 
 his conftruction made upon the Cafires ; but the 
 truth is, that they actually made ufe of that 
 " more eflential inftrument in metallurgy" at the 
 time, when the governor Van Stiel formed the 
 fettlement, which from him and a neighbouring 
 wood took the appellation of Stielen's bofch *. As 
 early as that period they knew how to make ham- 
 
 * La Y/illant calls this fettlement Stellcmbofch. 
 
 mers,
 
 INTERIOR. OF AFRICA. 93- 
 
 mors, tongs, chains, and the like articles ; travelled 
 by caravans to the Cape, and exchanged their ma- 
 nufactures for un wrought iron, kettles, brandy, 
 and bugles. In proportion as the Dutch planters 
 encreafed in number, and extended their planta- 
 tions, the CafFres were neceflitated to remove to a 
 greater diftance from the Fifh-river, which formed 
 the boundary of their country ; and being perfe- 
 cuted by the planters as well as the Hottentots, 
 they relinquifhed not only trade and commerce, 
 but alfo moil of their manufactories. Mr.Dulbach 
 of JBatavia being afterwards appointed Governor of 
 the Cape, he concluded with the Caffres an armi- 
 iUce for twenty years, on condition that they 
 mould fend every year twelve young men to the, 
 Cape, who were not to be treated as flaves, but as 
 fervants of the Company, and at the end of the 
 year to be relieved by twelve others. The young 
 men acquired at the Cape, not only a know- 
 ledge of the Dutch idiom, but they alfo learned to 
 make a variety of ufeful inftruments and tools. 
 It will hardly be fuppofed, that they mould not 
 have feen bellows at the Cape, or would not in- 
 troduce them in their native country! The ufuai 
 mode of forging iron has aifo been long kngwn in 
 Caifraria. 
 
 In the year 1739, a Portugueze fhip being 
 
 wrecked
 
 94 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 wrecked on the coaft, forty-three of the crew whtf 
 were faved, refided among the Caffres until 1 743, 
 gave them the iron and feveral article:;, which 
 were on board the fhip, and inftrucicd them in 
 the art of forging Spanifh fpears, feveral of which 
 are ftill preferved at the Cape; Yet thefe fpears 
 from their inconvenience, were foon converted 
 by the Caffres into javelins. Moft of the hordes 
 which I have vifited, pollened forges provided 
 with every necefiary implement, fuch ds a ftone 
 anvil, hammers broad on one fide, and on the 
 other formed like a chifel, tongs and other hmi- 
 lar inftruments. In lieu of files, certain itones 
 are ufed, which anfwer nearly the fame purpofe. 
 The huts of the Caffres refemble thofe of the Hot- 
 tentots, and are alfo covered with mats. M. Vail- 
 hut's affertion, " That the Caffres do noto inter their 
 dead, but that they are tranfported from the 
 kraal by the family, and depofitedina ditch, whi- 
 ther favage animals go, to feed at their leifure,' , 
 I. mull alfo contradict. They bury their dead 
 in feparate graves, and take care that wild beafts do 
 not fcratch them out of the ground. Vaillant's 
 defcription of the arms, and drefs of this nation is 
 perfectly correct, but he is miftaken when he 
 fays, " That the Caffres have a king;" they have 
 no fuch. chief, and his further affertion, " That 
 the fovercign power is hereditary in the king's fa- 
 mily,"
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. <)$ 
 
 mily," is of courfe equally erroneous. At the 
 Cape, it is true, they are ufed to fay of any dirty, 
 filthy fellow, " That he may be the king of Caf- 
 fraria;" but this does not prove the real exiftence 
 of fuch a king. 
 
 About feventy years back, feveral kraals were 
 governed by one common chfef, who might per- 
 haps have been filled king. The laft of thefe po- 
 tentates was called Pharao, and killed by the plan- 
 ters in the courfe of an incurfion into Caffraria. 
 At the time of Vaillant's travels there exifted but 
 few CafTres, acquainted even with the name of 
 Pharao, and not one was living, who had known 
 that King, a portrait of whom I faw at Colonel 
 Gordon's, at the Cape. Every horde has a chief ; 
 this dignity, however, is not held by right of in- 
 heritance, but the moft worthy and moft valiant 
 is elected to that ftation. I am alio perfectly fatis- 
 fied, that circumcifion is not in ufe among the- 
 Caffrcs. So much for the correctnefs of Vaillant's 
 remarks ; I fhall hereafter add fome further obfer- 
 vations on the manners, cuftoms, and inftitutions 
 of that nation. The horde with whom Ifo long 
 continued, contained fourteen thou&nd fouls, and 
 three hundred and nineteen combatants, who in- 
 habited one hundred and twenty -feven huts. By 
 way of amufement I ufed to carry wood, into the 
 
 huts,
 
 96 Travis in ttiK 
 
 huts, for which I received milk from the womeft* 
 The men bufy themfelves but very little with houfe*. 
 Bold affairs, procure no wood, do not attend the 
 cattle, nor take much notice of their children ; alt 
 this is left to the wife, who, in cafe of ficknefs, 
 requefts another woman of her family to fupply her 
 place. If the wife dies, her relation muft take 
 care of every thing, until the widower has chofen 
 another wife, in return for which ihe inherits the 
 cattle which was the property of the deceafed. If 
 there are children, the hufband keeps the boys, 
 and the relations bring up the girls. During my 
 refidence in this kraal, I learnt the place where the 
 fiiipwrecked Frenchmen met with their fate, and 
 was informed v that their lhip was lying at the dif- 
 tance of two days journey from this village. I re- 
 folved to viiit the fliip, mentioned this idea in the, 
 courfe of conversation with the Caffre who con- 
 verted with me moll frequently, and requefted 
 him to accompany me thither. He did not re- 
 ject this propofal, but obferved, that if the lhip 
 was lying off the eaftern coaft, it would be ex- 
 tremely difficult to carry my project into execu- 
 tion, without being attacked, nay, murdered by 
 the wandering Muhcrisnis, and that even fup- 
 pofing the ftiip Ihouki He in a convenient place, 
 yet we could make no ufe of her, and fhould of 
 courfe reap but little benefit from our entcrprize. 
 
 Still
 
 INTERIOR. OF A1RICA. rj'j 
 
 Still I did not deftft from my dcfign, and endea- 
 voured to render it more palatable to the Carfrc, 
 by telling him, that we could at at leaft break off 
 ;the iron, which lie might keep hiurfelf. He was 
 much pleafed with this offer, but endeavoured to 
 prevail upon feveral of his friends to join us in the 
 enterprise. He communicated his delign to the 
 mampa and other Gaffres, who approved of it 
 unanimoullyj and at laft twenty -feven men declared 
 themfelves ready to attend us on our journey : 
 they were armed with javelins, and I took with 
 me mv carabine, and forne hammers and ton<s, 
 and other implements. On the 27th of April we 
 put ourfelves in motion, and proceeded over the 
 chain of mountains towards the fpot where it 
 was laid the ihip lay. Taking but little reft, we 
 reached in the evening the mountain towards the 
 fea-iide, kindled a fire and lay around it. In the 
 night my companions difcovcred, at forne difiance, 
 a fire at the foot of the mountain; from the tone 
 in which they converted on this difegvery, I per- 
 ceived that they were afraid of being attacked by 
 robbers. I -endeavoured to fupport their fpirits, 
 and ftarted the idea thatwe might perhaps find 
 people belonging to the ihip. We fet out at a very 
 early hour, and took our route towards the fire : 
 at a coniiderable diftance from it my comparion-s 
 grew rrK>re lively., for they faw no robbers, but 
 
 H Cahres
 
 9$ TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 CafTres before them. On our reaching the fire< 
 we found that they had alfo been at the fhip, and 
 had brought away a corifiderable quantity of iron, 
 glafs-ware, fmall chefts, pieces of copper, and other 
 articles. They fhowed us the place where the 
 fhip was lying, and entreated us, on our journey 
 home, to pafs the night in their village. During the 
 reft of our journey I could fcarcely keep up with 
 my companions, who were now full of ipirit and 
 courage. We croffed a river, and arrived in the 
 evening at the wreck of the fhip : (lie lay between 
 the Fim-river and the river St. Lucie, in a bay 
 formed by the fea behind the mountain. She was 
 a brig, and her name, which I could difcern on her 
 flern, was St. Wemburg. We found feveral bodies 
 in a Hate of putrefaction, and pierced through in 
 feveral places, befides kettles, chefts, and alfo cot- 
 tons and fiiks$ which the fea-water had rendered 
 unfit for ufe. Iron being the moft interefting ob- 
 ject to my companions, they endeavoured to draw 
 out of the timber as many nails, bolts, and cramp- 
 irons as they were able. I kindled a fire, and pre- 
 pared the fupper, which confifted of the meat which 
 we had brought with us. The fupper being ready, 
 I called my companions, and fhowed them that 1 
 had procured a tolerable quantity of iron without 
 much trouble, by putting on the fire boards and 
 beams which contained bolts and nails, and being 
 
 contained
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 99 
 
 voniumed by flames, the iron lay in a mafs on the 
 ground. Having witneffed this operation, the 
 Caffres ran to the fliip, and fetched whole beams, 
 two of which were generally fattened together with 
 ftrong iron bars, and put them on the fire. The 
 next morning the iron was picked up among the 
 allies, and by this means a large quantity of it col- 
 lected. On fearching the beach, we found in a 
 calk, covered with fand by the waves, feventy 
 fire-locks, but which unfortunately were all fpoiled 
 by ruft. We put them in the lire to burn off the 
 wood, and afterwards found, farther on the beach, 
 lome fwords with the French arms engraved on 
 them. At noon every thing was ready for our 
 departure, but, as fome of the Caffres pretended to 
 be worn out with fatigue, it was refolved to take 
 fome repofe till the next morning. Walking on 
 the beach I perceived a human body, which, al- 
 though in a ftate of putrefaction, retained the 
 marks of two wounds, received in the breaft, and 
 was decorated with a badge of diitin&ion, pro- 
 bably the crofs of St. Louis. I manifefted a defire 
 to inter it ; my companions approved of my pro- 
 pofal, fetched four other dead bodies, and they were 
 all live depolited in a deep pit, dug out for that 
 purpofe, and covered with earth. The. funeral be- 
 ing performed, my companions warned themlelves 
 
 II 2 about
 
 1&0 TRAVDS IN THE 
 
 about twenty times with fea-water and aflies, and 
 did not eat a morfel tlie whole day ; whether-from 
 religious motives, or from a love of cleanlinefs, I 
 could not learn. In the evening a large lire was 
 again kindled ; we lay down and fell ailecp. Early 
 in the morning every one took up his load, and 
 we fet out on our march, confidering whether we 
 fiiould proceed toward the horde, who had invited 
 us to pafs the night with them, or ftrike into our 
 former road ; the majority inclining to the former 
 opinion, we took that route, reached the horde in 
 good time, and met with a very kind reception. 
 We found there large ilores of the remains of the 
 fliip's cargo and furniture, clothes, fhoes, whole 
 pieces of filks and cottons, fevcral new fire-lock > 
 and fwords, two large coppers, faucepans, pots, 
 bottles, and a confiderablc fum of money. They 
 prefented us with fome of thefe articles, especially 
 with one of the large coppers, which, however, 
 the four men, who carried it in the profecution ot 
 our way, were almoft neceflitatcd to abandon, 
 as it proved extremely troublefome to them on 
 climbing up the mountains. We learned that the 
 crew of the Clip, after having remained here fome 
 time, let out for the kingdom of Monomotapa, to 
 folicit the protection of the Portuguese govern- 
 ment of that country. Among the prefents which 
 
 fell
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. IOI 
 
 fell to my fhare, J was happy to ffnd a compafs. 
 On our drawing nigh our kraal the next day, we 
 were met by women and children, who, on the 
 view of our booty, received us with as lively fhouts 
 of joy as thousrh we had returned from the con- 
 quell of a kingdom ; in the kraal we experienced 
 the fame reception. The fuccefsful ifiue of this 
 enterprife raifed my character very high in the efti- 
 mation of the horde ; the women and children vied 
 v\ :th each other in fupplying me with good milk, 
 :md my friends readily fhared with me whatever 
 they had in their poffeffion ; they even appointed 
 me their deputy, or under-mampa, as an induce- 
 ment to me to fettle in their kraal, with the ad- 
 ditional offer of building, and furnifhing a hut for 
 my habitation. I declined their offer in a manner 
 which feemed to fatisfy them, promifing to return, 
 after having traverfed the neighbouring country, 
 to marry one of their girls, and to fpend w r ith them 
 the remainder of my life. I found alio other 
 means of conciliating their friendship. A young 
 fat buffalo, for inftance, being killed in the hut 
 where I reiided, I carefully collected the blood, 
 which they ufed to throw away, cleaned the guts, 
 which they ufually put under ground,* minced 
 
 * Left wild beafts fhould be attracted by the fmell. 
 
 H t, the
 
 102 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 the meat, made black puddings, and, boiled them 
 in the copper which we had brought with us. 
 They very much reliflied this novel kind of 
 food, thanked me heartily for my having ac* 
 quaintcd them with the mode of preparation, and 
 refolved to adopt it. 
 
 
 
 CHAP.
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. IO3 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 The Author's Departure from the friendly Cajfres to 
 purfue his Journey r Defer iptiw of the DangfS and 
 'Troubles which he had to encounter He is kindly 
 received by another Horde of Caff-res, and affifis 
 them againfi the Tambouhins Boundaries of Caf 
 fr urici and of other neighbouring Farts The Au- 
 thor being robbed of his Effects in another Kraal of 
 Cuff res, he recovers them by the Interpcfition of the 
 Chief, with the Exception of the Carabine, which 
 had been broken in Pieces by a Caf re Account of 
 a Janiatian Kraal. } and of their Cufloms ard Man- 
 ners. 
 
 /"\N the 20th of May I took my leave of this 
 \^r good-natured people. I was prefented with 
 roaft meat, and caiebafhes full of milk, and re- 
 minded of my promife to return. Several 
 CafTres accompanied me as far as the mountain, 
 when I turned towards the north-eaft, conftantly 
 wandering on rocks, until I reached a creek, 
 formed by the Fifh-river, on whole banks I took 
 fome repofe; and then purfued my journey, climb- 
 ing at one time over mountains, and at others wander- 
 ing through pleafant vales. The next day I reached 
 
 ade-
 
 104 iK.AM.I-:; I] 
 
 a delightful plain, covered with fine reed-grafs, and 
 interiperfed with ihrubs and trees, many of which 
 bore the yellow plums I have already mentioned. 
 At laft I came to another kraal, where I palled the 
 night : they gave me milk and a piece of meat, but 
 iecured my carabine.* On my letting out the next 
 morning, I was accompanied by a great many chil- 
 dren as far as a flat mountain, which lay in my 
 road. This was rather a meafure of precaution 
 than a matter of curiofity, their fields lying that 
 way ; for on our palling by a piece of land, fown 
 with Indian corn, a ftalk of which I was going to 
 pluck up, they cried out- goner urn daro pr.fy 
 kamd krujulfay (don't touch it, elfe you will be 
 ihot by my father). On the mountain, called by 
 the Cailres Ffadc/j, (Salt-hill), I found much falt- 
 petre. The foot of the mountain was warned by 
 a fmall river, which branched into two arms. The 
 laft mentioned horde moft probably obtain their 
 water at this place, which lias a brackiih taite. 
 Whether this water is originally impregnated with 
 {al|, or attracts faline parts from the rocks over 
 which it flows, I am not able to determine. 1 
 came next to a thick wood, which I intended to- 
 
 * This was q meafure of precaution, left my carabine fLould 
 l>e handled bv unucflful or imprudecr. perfon?, ana uuicnicf 
 
 enfue. 
 
 pais.
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. IO5 
 
 pais, but was not able to effeft my mirpofc, though 
 in attempting it I was detained half a day. Near 
 this wood I faw a troop of about forty elephants. 
 1 was much alarmed, being obliged to traverfc 
 t he place which they occupied, but efcaped unhurt, 
 and paffed the night clofe by the wood. I kindled 
 a lar^e fire, but was neverthelefs much haraffed 
 by wolves and lions, who approached very near 
 me, but had not the courage to attack me. This 
 wood was by my calculation from twenty-one to 
 twenty-eight miles in length, and confifted of 
 kakoiay and monapacka-trees. The fruit of the 
 kakolay-tree refembles our wild chefnuts,' but the 
 pulp is of a reddiih colour, and of a four tafte. 
 The fruit of the monopacka-tree is a fpecies of 
 apple, the kernels of which are of the fize of a large 
 vetch and fweet. I was now compelled to ftay a 
 confiderable time by the hre, as it was very late be- 
 fore the wild bcafts withdrew into the forefr, and 
 1 did not think it prudent to pafs through them. 
 About noon a tremendous ilorm arofe, which I 
 conlidered as a joyful event in as much as it cooled 
 the air. I was not able to travel more than fix 
 miles, the road frequently being obltru&ed by 
 ftagnant waters, which I was obliged to wade 
 through or to go round. Thefe were alio infefted 
 by wild animals which fallied forth from the woods 
 to quench their thirit. The following night I was 
 
 compelled
 
 106 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 compelled to be conftantly on my guard, to keep 
 off their attacks, as I could not venture into the 
 foreft to fetch the neceflary fire-wood. I there- 
 fore palled this night without fleep, walked con- 
 stantly to and fro, and ate fome meat, which was 
 not altogether untainted. At break of day I crofted 
 the ridge of rocky mountains, which lay before 
 me, and which run from weft to eaft. I met with 
 barren heights, unfruitful valleys, without fhrub 
 or trees,and covered with long-reed grafs,fcorched 
 by the fun. Wild beafts. abounded every where. 
 I found large fupplies qf rain water in the clefts 
 of the rocks. The .following day I fired at a roe- 
 buck, but having wounded him but flighdy he 
 effected his efcape. I intended to pafs the night 
 in a neighbouring kraal, bu not being able to 
 reach it I fat down on a hill, and conudercd whe- 
 ther I had better turn towards aother quarter or 
 purfue the fame road. Unable to fatisfy the 
 cravings of my ftomach I grew melancholy, but on 
 a'fudden was roufed from my dejection by the 
 found of human voices. 
 
 I looked round, and faw a party of men ad- 
 vancing towards me, armed with clubs and javelins. 
 Had I been lefs tormented with hunger, I fhould 
 have endeavoured to efcape from them ; but now I 
 was glad to fee them approach me. At the diftance 
 of ten paces they all halted ; and one of them callec} 
 
 out
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. I Cj 
 
 put to me in the CaiFrarian language : " What doit 
 thou here?" I anfwered, that I was dying with 
 hunger. " Haft thou no food then," aiked a 
 fecond. I relied that I had none. Who art 
 hou?" cried a third. I am a native of the weft, 
 our fhip has been wrecked on the coaft. " Whither 
 art thou going?'"' To my native country. Many 
 other queftioris were put to me, and in particular 
 I was afked whether I had come aione ? 1 anfwered 
 them as well as I could, by means of fmgle words 
 and figns, and then intreated them to give me fome 
 food. They ordered me to accompany them; 
 but on my alluring them that I was fo fatigued 
 and weak as to be unable to follow them: a con- 
 futation was held, in which one of them laid, that 
 J lr.uft be compelled to go with them ; another 
 propofed to kill me with their javelins ; but this 
 was dppofed by a third, who happened to be of a 
 gentler and more compamonatedilpciidon. This 
 difcourie terrified me exceedingly : at laft one of 
 them ieized me by the arm, and gave me to un- 
 clerlland, that I muft go along with them. I 
 willingly followed them into a thicket, where they 
 halted and- kindled a fire. One of them crave me 
 
 o 
 
 a piece of raw meat, which I broiled on the coals : 
 others of them let me drink out of their water- 
 bottles. When I lay down to fleep, I placed my 
 knapfack as a pillow, under my head j but they 
 
 took
 
 TRAVELS W -Tlir 
 
 . 
 
 took it away from ir.c, to examine its contents. 
 In it they found powder, balls, a knife, a pair of 
 fciffars, and two ftiirts: the knife and fchfars they 
 kept, but the other articles were reftored to me. 
 I had luckily fewed my money into n.y waiftccat, 
 and thus preferred it. I flept fbundiy, birt was 
 awaked very early in the morning, and ordered to 
 follow them. They travelled in a north-eaft di- 
 rection, and with fo much fpeed, that I was con- 
 ftantly at fome diftance behind them ; one of 
 them therefore threatened me with his club, and 
 towards evening another even ftruck me feveral 
 times acrofs the moulders, and threatened to re- 
 peat this chaftiiement if I did not make more hafte. 
 I felt much pain from the blows; and the blood 
 Kkewife began to run out of my fhoes # ; for we 
 were obliged to climb over rocks, and to force a. 
 paflage through bufhes and high reed-grafs. It 
 was aimoft dark before we arrived at the kraal y 
 where they took me to a hut and gave me fome 
 milk, and cakes made of India^ corn. I did not 
 yet know, whether I was among Caffres or rob- 
 bers : but fufpe&ed the latter, as I had never be- 
 fore been treated with fuch rigour by other hordes 
 of Caflres. I now recollected that at feveral of 
 
 
 
 * My {hoes confined only of a piece of raw hide cut from a 
 buffalo, and fitted to t'ue foot whillt wet. 
 
 the
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 1C<) 
 
 the kraals which I had vifited, they Jtad cautioned 
 me to beware of falling into the hands of tile Mu- 
 hotians ; and, believing that I was now a prifoner 
 to thefe lavages, I gave myfelf up for loft. Hence 
 though much fatigued, 1 was unable to fleep all 
 night ; often flatting at the iiighteft noife in the 
 hut, and expecting every moment to be murdered. 
 Towards the dawn of day, I entertained fomc 
 thoughts cf attempting to make my efcape, as 
 my guards were yet fafc afleep, and I heard no 
 human voice on the outiide of the hut ; but, on 
 maturer confederation, I refoived to remain there, 
 and patiently to await the event, rather than to run 
 the riik of being detected in my flight and retaken : 
 beildes, they had had the precaution to carry my 
 bundle and carabine to another hut ; I, therefore, 
 laid myfelf down again on the mat, and fell afleep. 
 I mould probably have ilept a long time, had I 
 not been awakened by a young woman who 
 brought me fome milk and cakes. There being 
 now no one in the hut except her and myfelf, 1 
 entered into conversation with her, and afked her 
 the following queftions : Art thou a CafTre ? fiie 
 anfwered, yes. Whither arc the people belonging 
 to this hut gone? " I do not know/' When will 
 they return? " I do not know." I, too, wifh to 
 be gone ; give me my gun and my bundle. " Thou 
 muft not go j my father has carried thy gun to 
 
 another
 
 1IO TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 another hut." But why fhould I remain here? 
 " Becaufe thou art fo beautifully white.'* Thy 
 Father will probably kill me, and eat my fleih? 
 " We have plenty of buffaloes ; however, I do not 
 know whether thy fiefh may not likewifebe eaten." 
 She now left me, and faftened the door on the out-* 
 fide ; I was therefore ftill uncertain what fate 
 awaited me here, but believed that I fhould either 
 be killed privately, or immolated in public on fome 
 day of feftivity. Full of fuch gloomy forebodings, 
 I again refigned myfelf to fleep. In the mean time 
 the men belonging to the hut had returned, and 
 being informed by the girl of the queftions I had 
 afked her, one of them feized me by the feet and 
 fhook me violently ; but even before this had 
 fully awaked me, I involuntarily fcreamed out 
 aloud ; for I had at that moment been dreaming 
 that my enemies were going to flaughter me. All 
 the by-ftandcrs laughed at my terror, and One of 
 them affuming an air of great fiercenefs and fe- 
 verity, ordered me to rife and pull off my cloaths, 
 as he was refolvcd to kill me immediately. I 
 flowly raifed myfelf up, fixing my eyes on the man 
 who had thus threatened me ; but ir.ftcacl of being 
 infulted or ill-treated by him, 1 received from him 
 a piece of roafced meat, and fomc milk from the 
 young woman. He then afTured me, that I need 
 not be under any apprehenfions of being killed, as 
 
 his
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. lit 
 
 his countrymen were not accuftomed to eat human 
 Hem. The hut being full of fmokc, we adjourned 
 to a grafs-plot in its front, and there having feated 
 ourfelves in a ring, I was obliged to communicate 
 to them an account of my adventures; which I 
 did more by means of iigns and geftures than by 
 words. The man who, during the preceding 
 day's journey, had given me fome blows, now ex- 
 preffed much kindnefs towards me, and faid: 
 " Stay here with us, none of us will hurt thee ; 
 for we are CafFres, who kill their enemies indeed, 
 but protect the fir anger who takes refuge among 
 them: flay here, we will protect thee, and will 
 provide for thee: do not leave us, for if thou 
 fhouldeft happen to fall into the hands of thofe 
 cruel robbers the Muhotians, they will certainly 
 murder thee. But fhouldeft thou not like to re- 
 main always with us, yet wait, at leaft, till goka 
 makkah (a full-moon) is paft, for then the robbers 
 will leave the tract of country through which thou 
 art going to travel." I now began to breathe 
 more freely, and gladly accepted their friendly 
 offer. 
 
 During my flay at this kraal, I endeavoured to 
 render myfelf ufeful and agreeable to my kind en- 
 tertainers, by partaking in their labours, carrying 
 wood to their hut,, accompanying them to the 
 
 chace,
 
 112 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 chace, and making various trifling articles which 
 were well received. Every four days a party ot 
 twelve men fct out from the kraal, to range through 
 the country to the diftaiice of from fix to nine 
 Englifh miles, in order to lie in wait for the rob- 
 bers, in cafe they fhould attempt to fteal any of 
 their cattle. If they meet with no robbers, they 
 .go in purfuit of the wild bealts, that they may not 
 return home without fome prey. About a fort- 
 night after my arrival, the mampa> who had be- 
 fore returned me my carabine, lent me out with 
 One of thefe foouring-parties ; and I had the good 
 fortune to render fome fervice to my hofpitable 
 friends. We directed our courfe towards the 
 fouth-eaft, where moll of the cattle were feeding* 
 and had paned through a wood which was a mile 
 in length, when we faw, as we emerged out of it, 
 feveral men advancing towards us. My companions 
 immediately knew them to be Tambouki robbers, 
 who would probably attack us. They accordingly 
 exhorted me to fight with the fame determined 
 bravery as they fhould, that fo we might not be 
 overcome by thefe favages. My carabine was al- 
 ready loaded; but, in my hurry, I put into it 
 eight flugs more, and fired among our enemies, 
 as foon as they approached within gun-mot. Tiiq 
 halted ; and I immediately leaded and fired at 
 them again ; whereupon they lied with precipita- 
 tion,
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. i I 3 
 
 tion, leaving two of their wounded companions 
 behind. Thcfe priibners we took with us to the 
 kraal ; and though they were the moft inveterate 
 foes of the Caffres, they were not treated with 
 cruelty. When their wounds were healed, they 
 were employed as Haves to carry wood and water. 
 'This action procured me much honour and dif- 
 tinction among my new friends, who endeavoured 
 by every means in their power to render my 
 abode as agreeable as poffible. This kraal con- 
 tained four hundred and ninety-three inhabitants, 
 among whom there were one hundred fixty men 
 capable of bearing arms. It is the laft in Caffraria 
 proper, on the north-eaft fide, and lies at the dis- 
 tance of about one day's journey from the borders 
 of the country inhabited by the Jamatians. The 
 Jamatians, indeed, call themfelves Caffres alfo, but 
 they are not acknowledged as fuch by the Caffres 
 properly lo called, from whom they differ in 
 many refpecls. 
 
 This being the proper place, I fhall here intro- 
 duce fome farther account of the manners, cuf- 
 torns, and the laws of the Caffres, properly. fo 
 called. All that tract of country which, on the 
 maps of Arica,is defignated by the general name of 
 Caffraria, mould be divided into five parts accord- 
 ing to the five nations which inhabit it. Thefe 
 
 I nations,
 
 114 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 nations, indeed, change their places of residence 
 every year : but they take care that no one mall en- 
 croach upon the territories of another. The fouth- 
 ern Caffres, or thofe properly fo called, inhabit the 
 tract of land from Brugehoogte. to the Tumbo- 
 ver, about 140 miles in length, and between 50 
 and 60 in breadth, from the fea to the kingdom 
 of Biri. But as many other nations pretend to be 
 CafFres, or are confidered as fuch by travellers, we 
 muft not be furprized that thefe latter have given 
 fuch various accounts of the extent of the coun- 
 try called Caffraria. Within that tract of land 
 which extends in length from fbuth to north 
 two hundred miles, from the Tumbo-river to the 
 Franzis-river, and from eighty-iix to one hundred 
 miles in breadth, dwell the following nations: 
 1. The Jamatians, whofe territory borders on that 
 of the fouthern or proper CafFres, lying to the 
 fouth-eaft. 2. The Muhotians, bounded on the 
 fouth by Caffraria Proper, and to the eaft by the 
 Jamatians. 3. The Kamtorrians, whofe territory 
 forms a triangle, and borders fouthward that of 
 the Muhotians, and weftward on the kingdom of 
 Biri. 4. The.Birians, in the kingdom of Biri ; 
 thefe are fubdivided into three tribes, viz. the Bi- 
 rians, properly fo called;' the Cohavnn.s, who mi- 
 grated thither from a country fituated far- 
 ther fouthward; and the Tnmbcukis. 5. The 
 
 Kaininrukl^,
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. I I 5 
 
 Itaminrukis,* a patient race of men, who are 
 greatly oppreffed by their neighbours. 6. The 
 Monikans, in the kingdom of Monika; who are 
 powerful and very numerous ; their territory bor- 
 ders to the fouth on the kingdom of Biri, and to 
 the call on a country yet unknown. 7. The 
 Jamampaus ; who fubfift by plundering their 
 neighbours, on which, account they were expel- 
 led from Monomotapa. The name Jamampau 
 fignifics a robber. 8. The Inhambans, inhabiting a 
 fmall kingdom fituated on the river of the fame 
 name. They have permitted the Huyjamins to 
 fettle among them: thefe Huyjamins formerly 
 dwelt in a fertile tract of country on the Aroe, 
 whence they were expelled by the Batanzans. 
 9. The inhabitants of the kingdom of Sabla. 10. 
 The inhabitants of the kinrdom of Sofala. 11. 
 The f nhamois. 1 2. The Inhamafibas. Thefe four 
 l.-ft- mentioned nations have formed a defensive 
 
 * I am fin-prized that M. Vaillant mould pretend to have 
 been in the country of the Kaminrukis, as it lies about two 
 hundred miles diftant from his route. Admitting that 
 he may have occalionally made excurfions fr6m his cara- 
 van, yet it is hardly poi'fible that during any of thefe he 
 could have penetrated fo far. This nation is not numerous, 
 confining only Of about three thoufand fouls. They are much 
 hated by the Southern Caffres, who are holiile to them on 
 '.-(' rv ore ail 01:. 
 
 1 2 league
 
 !l6 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 - 
 
 league againit their common enemies, and carry 
 on a continual war with the king of Monomo- 
 topa, who is endeavouring to fubject them again 
 to his dominion. 13. The kingdom of Chicaro* 
 which is inhabited by the four nations that were 
 formerly governed by kings of their own, viz. 
 The Machubis, a warlike r ace , the Chainuquos, 
 who fubfift by pafturage; the Matinapis, who 
 were expelled from the kingdom of Butua, for re- 
 fufing to pay tribute, and even attempting to kill 
 the king ; andthe Monglas, who are a gentle but 
 a brave race of men. Their king having fold 
 numbers of his fubjects as flaves to the French, 
 an infurrecHbn was the confequence, in which the 
 king loft his life. Among the above enumerated 
 nations there are bcfides feveral fmaller tribes, 
 who fometimcs are diftinguifhed by a flight va- 
 riation of manners and cuftoms, but who yet on the 
 whole conform to thofe of the more powerful 
 nation, in whofe territory they are fettled. All 
 the above-mentioned nations are by fome travel- 
 lcrs and geographers comprehended under the 
 general name of Caffre's; to which ethers add, 
 even the Monomotopans, thus making Cafiraria 
 extend as far as the river ' Chireyra. Other divi- 
 fions have likewife been made, and other, bounda- 
 ries given ; but by mpft Of the inhabitants of the 
 '.ouhtries through' which I travelled, the above- 
 
 mentioned 

 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. I I 7 
 
 itions are held to be Caffres 
 more extended fenfe of the denomination. 
 
 mentioned nations are held to be Caffres in the 
 
 7 ' 
 
 The country upon the whole is fruitful, al- 
 though there are many mountains and morafles ; 
 and were it better cultivated, few tracts in Eu- 
 rope would exceed it in fertility. The places, for 
 inftance, where nothing now grows except reed- 
 grafs, might be made to produce the beft wheat. 
 There is no want of minerals, but no advantage is 
 derived from them, the natives being deftitute of 
 the requisite knowledge for digging and fmelting 
 the ore. There is an abundance of wild and 
 tame amimals, as likewife of various herbs and 
 fruits, which are yet but little known in other 
 countries. 
 
 The reader has already been informed, that the 
 country commonly called Caffraria, is inhabited by 
 feveral nations. In this place I fhall only give an 
 account of the mode of liie, manners, and cuf- 
 toms of that particular nation, of which I acquired 
 fo accurate a knowledge, and from which the 
 whole country derives its name, viz. the Southern 
 Caffres. The Caffres acknowledge a Supreme Be- 
 ing, and likewife woriliip the fun and moon; 
 but they have neither temples nor priefls. Every 
 one is at full liberty to woriliip the Divinity in his 
 
 1 3 own
 
 1 I 3 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 own way, and according to his own ideas : the 
 oldcft perfons of each family inftruct the children; 
 as, for inflance, the grandfather the boys, and the 
 grandmother the girls. The cloathing of the Caf- 
 fres refembles that of the Hottentots : they wear 
 a fhort apron round their waift, and on their 
 lhoujders a fort of cloak made of a fhcep's-fldn. 
 The long thick hair of the men is plaited, and 
 bound with a cloth into a tuft on the top of the 
 head. The women likewife form their hair into 
 braids, which hang down over their fhoulders. 
 
 The 'chief , perfon of each kraal Is called the 
 mampa, and he fettles all trifling difputes : but on 
 matters of great importance, all the men of the 
 kraal decide : thus for inftancc, they adjudge the 
 punifhment for the crime of adultery ; and here 
 it may be obferved, that the adultercfs is puntfhed 
 with the greatcil fevcrity, whilft the adulterer 
 meets with a comparatively milcl treatment. Tl6 
 men too are allowed to have more than one wife. 
 
 In war they behave with great bravery, fcldom 
 giving way except when overpowered by fupcrior 
 force and numbers. They are fond of war, and 
 therefore often commit unprovoked acts of hoflility 
 againu their neighbours. Their weapons ccnfiil 
 of lances and clubs. When in the year 1 709 they 
 
 were
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. I 10, 
 
 were oppreffed by the Butch colonifls, they alone 
 raifed an army of forty thoufand men ; and if the 
 other nations, namely thofe from the borders of 
 the Dutch colonies to the kingdom of Biri, had 
 lent their auxiliary troops with more difpatch, an 
 army of from eighty to ninety-thoufand men 
 might have been brought into the field ag;ainft the 
 
 o o o 
 
 Dutch : and Cape-town would not have been 
 able to hold out againft their irreliftible attack. 
 For the purpofe of conveying intelligence with 
 the greater! difpatch to the difperfed hordes when, 
 a war breaks out, the horde ncarcft the borders 
 of the enemy's country erecls on an eminence the 
 trunk of a certain tree,* deprived of its branches 
 and bark, which, having fmcarcd it all over with 
 t allow, they fct it on fire. On feeing this fignal, 
 the warriors of the other kraals haften to the aflift- 
 ance of their countrymen. 
 
 The CafFres are extremely fond of tinging and 
 dancing, and other feftive fports ; and therefore 
 frequently indulge in feafts and merry-makings ; 
 efpeciaily when the nights are clear and the moon 
 mines bright ; for while the fun continues to 
 
 * This tree bears fruit refernbling our goofeberries. It like- 
 wife produces a kind of greenifh wax, which is much fought 
 after by the Dutch colonifis, who make candles of it. 
 
 1 4 fhine
 
 120 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 fhine they abflain from dancing and gambling, 
 left they fhould thereby give offence to that divine 
 luminary. When they have gained a victory 
 over their enemies, when they have deitroyed a 
 ferocious beaft of prey, or when they elect a 
 mampa, they never fail to celebrate a festival. 
 
 To point out the time when a feftival is to be 
 celebrated, the mampa flicks -feme branches of 
 the palm on the top of his hut. The young men 
 who are not yet capable of bearing arms are not 
 allowed to aflift at the celebration of fome parti- 
 cular feflivals ; nor are the children permitted to 
 be prefent while the parents dance. Time is here 
 computed by days, moons, and years ; ten lunar 
 months making one year. 
 
 Though among the Cadres the women are not 
 held m much eftimation, .but are even confidered 
 as little better than flaves ; yet certain rights and 
 privileges arc fecured to them by the cuftom of 
 the country. When a woman is delivered of a 
 child, her, hufband is not allowed to enter the hut 
 where me Hes-in till the end of three days : if 
 fhe be delivered of a fon, the hufband muft give 
 an entertainment ; but if fhe brings forth a daugh- 
 ter, fhe mull furnifh the feaft herfelf. To iuch 
 feafls, however, the ncarefl relatives only are in- 
 vited.
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. J2J 
 
 vited. In each kraal certain huts are fct apart for 
 the women to be delivered in, which no man is 
 allowed to approach. In fome Jiordes each family 
 pofleffes fuch a lying-in hut. Under certain reftric- 
 tions they have the liberty to fue for a divorce ; 
 in this refpecT:, however, the hufbands have much 
 more in their power than their wives. The wife 
 is obliged to cohabit with the hufband as long as 
 he pleafcs ; if however fhe peremptorily infills 
 upon being parted from him, her requeft is com* 
 plied with, but fhe is forced to leave the kraal. 
 The law prohibits the hufband from ftriking 
 his wife ; in this point then the Caffrefs hath 
 greatly the advantage of the more polifhed Eu- 
 ropean dame, whom fhe views with difdain- 
 ful contempt. A Caffre who beats his wife 
 would be defpifed by every one, and confidered 
 an unworthy member of the kraal. During my 
 ftay among this people, I never once knew a man 
 quarrel with his wife, or treat her with opprobri- 
 ous language; for they regularly, and in the befl 
 manner they are able, perform the buiinefs and 
 duties which cuftom has reflectively allotted them. 
 If the hufband become fick, one of his relations 
 undertakes the management of his affairs'; if the 
 wife fall fick, one of her female relations is in like 
 manner obliged to aflift her. I now return to the 
 journal of my travels. 
 
 Having
 
 122 T-nAYLLS IX THE 
 
 Having tarried fix weeks with this horde, 
 where I acquired much ui'cful information, how 
 and in what direction I might, with the greateft 
 fafcty purfuc ray journey, I at bit left the kraal 
 on the i ith of July, and turned to the eaft, though 
 contrary to the advice of my friends the Caffres. 
 I hoped that by that route I fhouid be able to 
 reach Egypt. Having travelled all day over 
 ground which was tolerably eafy to pafs, without 
 feeing any kraal or human being, in the evening 
 I afcended a woody ridge of mountains, and re- 
 ferred to halt there for the night. In this part of 
 the country there arc a great number of gems* 
 bucks : whole flocks of them approached the fire 
 at which I lay ; and I had the good fortune to kill 
 one of them with the butt-end of my gun. This 
 carcafe afforded me an excellent meal. Water I 
 found in abundance ; in fomc of the valleys I was 
 obliged to wade through it up to my knees. On 
 the following day at noon, I left the ridge of 
 mountains in my rear, and entered upon a beau- 
 tiful plain, above two miles in length, through 
 which flowed a river feven feet broad. The water 
 was fomewhat brackifh, but not to fuch a degree 
 as to render it unthinkable. On account of the 
 great heat I tarried here fome hours, and bathed 
 in the river. Towards evening, I had reached the 
 end of the plain, and efpied huts at fome diftance : 
 
 but
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 1 23 
 
 but it was impofilble for mc to reach them before 
 nisrht. I therefore feated mvfelf in the crrafs, and 
 rcl'olving to pafs the night here, lay down on my 
 bundle. I had lain about an hour, when I felt 
 ibmcthing feize me by the feet : I had placed my 
 carabine between my legs, and by way of precau- 
 tion, held the fling in my hand; I therefore in- 
 flantly pulled it up and drew the trigger. I now 
 ilarted up, andfaw four men, who terrified by the 
 explofion, had retired to fome diftance. Obferving 
 that they would not again approach me, I called to 
 them in the Caftrarian language : ' What would 
 you have of me ?' Whereupon they afked me : 
 " Why art thou come into our country, and 
 whence corned thou ?" I again queftioned them : 
 ' Are ye CafFres ?' They anfwered, " Yes." s If 
 then ye are of as kind and hofpitable difpofition as 
 your countrymen, tell me, may I go to lodge ail 
 night at your kraal, without being made a pri- 
 foner ?' " We muft hrft be informed who thou 
 art ;" anfwered they, and were going away. *'I 
 am a native of the Weft Country, and am return- 
 ing to my own country.' " Follow us," cried 
 they ; " but firft give us the Takayudma" (the 
 murderous-thing). I furrendered my carabine to 
 them, and followed them. They brought me to 
 a hut, in which a lick old man lay, whom I fup* 
 pofed to be their chief. After they had fpoken to 
 
 him,
 
 J24 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 him, they fhewed me a buffalo's hide near the 
 door of the hut, on which I lay down, and foon 
 began to indulge in no very pleafing reflection 
 on my prefent fituation ; for I apprehended they 
 would murder me for the fake of my bundle. 
 However, fleep at length overpowered mc, and I 
 flept foundly till the morning. An old woman 
 then brought fome milk and mdis for the fick 
 man. I addreffed her in the Caffrarian language : 
 but though fhe earneftly looked at me, me went 
 out again without making me any anfwer. An 
 hour after, the man who had brought me to the 
 hut on the preceding evening came in. I begged 
 of him to give me fome milk : but he defired me 
 to have patience, converged a fhort time with the 
 old man, and then left us, I now approached the 
 fick man ; and repeated my requeft to him : but, 
 fay what I would, he only fhook his head, and 
 anfwered not a word. I now took up my bundle, 
 and went to the adjoining hut, where I begged of 
 a man whom I fpund {landing at the door, to give 
 me fome food and milk ; but he referred me to 
 his wife, whom I could not find. I then placed 
 myfelf in front of the ikk man's hut, hoping to 
 fee the perf(in who firit took my carabine from 
 me ; and refuelled every one that palled by, to 
 {hew me his hut : but received no anfwer. In a 
 fhort time a great crowd of ]>eoplc aflemblcd about 
 
 mc,
 
 INFERIOR OF AFRICA. 1 25 
 
 me, and fome of them took my bundle from me ; 
 I remonftrated as loudly as I could: but in vain. 
 Finding my entreaties difregarded, I feized the 
 man by the hair who held my bundle ; but was 
 obliged to let go my hold, being attacked on every 
 fide. I exclaimed againft them with great voci- 
 feration : but that only ferved to increafe the 
 mirth Of the by-ftanders. In fear of my life, I ex- 
 pected every moment to receive the death-blow, 
 when a man haftened up to us, with a club in his 
 hand, which he applied as freely to my affaiiants as 
 to me, and at laft thruft me into the hut with a 
 degree of violence which took away my fenfes. 
 I foon recovered, but ftill received no food ; I was 
 under conftant apprehenfion of being murdered. 
 The patient grew angry, and talked a good deal, 
 of which, however, I did not underftand a word ; 
 at length the old woman I have already mentioned, 
 brought fome milk and a flick of fugar, put it 
 down and went away ; although I did not know 
 for whom thefe articles of food were intended, I 
 helped myfelf without hefitation, and inftantly de- 
 voured them. 
 
 At noohj three of thofe men who had carried 
 me into the kraal entered the hut. )ne of them 
 was the man who had taken away my carabine j I 
 entreated him to bring it to me, as I intended to 
 
 purfue
 
 Il6 TRAVELS IN THt 
 
 purfue my journey, and alfo mentioned that I had 
 been robbed of my bundle. "Without giving any 
 anfwer, he went away and foon returned, attended 
 by the man who had cudgelled and thruft me into 
 the hut. At the clofe of a long converfation, in 
 an idiom which I did not undcrftand, they at laft 
 informed me in the language of the Cafires, that 
 my effects fhould be returned. Some told me 
 that he who had beaten me was the caujata (vice 
 or deputy chieftain), and that to him I was in- 
 debted for my life ; for having witneffed the ill 
 ufage I experienced, he had haftened up to us to 
 fettle the difference ; the by-ffanders, they added, 
 had no intention to keep my bundle, but were 
 only defirous to fee what articles it contained. 
 My deliverer endeavoured to prevail upon me to 
 remain longer with them, and promifed to fetch 
 the effects of which I had been robbed, which pro- 
 mife he inftantly performed. My carabine and 
 knapfack being alfo returned, he deilred me imme- 
 diately to examine into the contents of the latter, 
 and fee whether any thing was milling. On my 
 affuring him that nothing was wanting, he faid, 
 " Well, you may now go whither you pleafe, but 
 if you pleafe to flay, ycu may live in my hut: 
 fhould ycu go towards the quarter where the fun 
 rifes, you will End five more kraals of our friend 1 ; 
 if any of them fearch ycur bundle, ne\er fear, 
 
 vcu
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 1 2J 
 
 you will not be robbed. Stay in my hut tn! you 
 go, I will fhoWyou the way." The evening was 
 fpent in the moil pleafant manner ; a number of 
 people afiembled round our hut, plaecd the chief 
 in the midft of them, and went in proceflion to a 
 held before the kraal, where a large fire was 
 kindled, and the company fang and danced. This 
 entertainment lafted three hours ; they then fe- 
 parated, after having previouily conducted the 
 caujata into his hut, which every one prefent de- 
 corated with a bough. This feftival is celebrated 
 at every full moon, if the moon be not covered 
 with clouds ; it is called mihaphikm (God's-day), 
 but if it be ovcrcaft, the whole kraal grieves, from 
 a fuppolition that the Divinity is difpleafed. They 
 draw the fame conclufion with refDcct to the fun, 
 whom they alfo worfhip ; if he rifes overfpread 
 with clouds, they fay, that the nation over which 
 he Hands, has made him angry ; if at noon, when 
 the fim itands over them, the clouds difperfe, they 
 rejoice in the idea that they have appeafed his wrath 
 by good actions, and celebrate a feftival ; but if 
 the contrary happens, and the fun which role 
 in fplcridour be overhung with clouds at noon, 
 they mourn, and alienable to try and pxmifh thofe 
 who have offended ao:ainft the law ; if. in this cafe 
 the fky brightens, the judge is deemed to have 
 acted right and fair ; but if a ilorm fucceed, they 
 
 conclude
 
 I2& TRAVELS IN THZ 
 
 conclude that he has pronounced an unjult leu- 
 tence, and they afk pardon of the punifhed. 
 
 Being taken ill in the night with fevere pains in 
 my bowels, I arofe to go out of the hut, but 
 tumbled over my hoft, who fet up a dreadful 
 fcream. On my afking his pardon, and acquaint- 
 ing him with my indifpofition, he grew calm, arofe, 
 kindled a fire, brought fome dry leaves, which he 
 directed me to chew, and led me out of the hut ; 
 a violent vomiting enfued, and the pains abated. 
 The next morning I purfued my journey, attended 
 by my hoft, who fhowed me the way, and gave 
 me fome more of the above dry leaves, which did 
 me much good : until noon my road was good, 
 and lay through a wood, where I found large 
 quantities of yellow plums and apples. I reached 
 afterwards an arm of the river Tumba or Tambu, 
 which by the natives is called Mb-kyfab; it abounded 
 with fifh,a number of which I caught with my hand ; 
 kindled a fire to roaft them, and made an excellent 
 meal. On my left hand I perceived fcveral huts, 
 but being neither in want of food nor drink, I 
 avoided them and turned a little to the north-eaft. 
 About the fall of night I faw thirty huts before 
 me, walked towards them, and met a young wo- 
 man, whom I addrefTed in the language of the 
 Caffres. She looked at me, but returned no an- 
 
 f wer s
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. I2Q. 
 
 fwer : I made a fign that I was thirfty, and fhe 
 pointed, in reply, to the river from whence I came. 
 On my exprefling further by figns, that I wifhed 
 to fleep in a hut, the pointed to the grafs on which 
 we flood. I then offered to go with her, but fhe 
 puflied me back ; I therefore let her go before me, 
 and followed : at the firft hut I came to, I faw 
 thirty men armed with clubs, whom I afked 
 whether they intended to kill me ? "Yes," they an- 
 fwered,"if you are a robber." I told them that I was 
 not ; they drew near, viewed my firelock, took 
 my bundle from my back, and examined it. One 
 took my axe, another my firelock, and the whole 
 party withdrew : I collected the things which they 
 had fcattered about, went to the firft hut, and en- 
 quired after the caujata. Inftead of an anfwer, I 
 received two blows with a club from a young man, 
 who rufhed out of the hut and thruft me away. I 
 went to a fecond hut, and met with the fame re- 
 ception : night coming on, I was neceflitated to 
 quit the kraal, w v here inftead of hofpitality I met 
 with ill-treatment, and to lay down on the grafs. 
 Unable to fleep, I confidered in what manner I 
 fhould a& to recover my firelock and axe : at break 
 of day I faw three men coming out of the kraal ; 
 I thought they were in fearch of me, arofe, walked 
 up to them, and addreffed them in the moft refpecT:- 
 ful manner, and entreated that they would pro- 
 , K cure
 
 I30 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 cure me my axe and firelock, and thus enable me 
 to purfue my journey. They afeed me from 
 whence I came, and whither I was going ? Hav- 
 ing heard my anfwer, they went back to the kraal, 
 and I lay down on the grais in expectation of 
 the event ; but as none of them returned, I took 
 courage, and went to the kraal, to feck for my axe 
 and carabine. At the very entrance of the village 
 I faw the men with whom I had converfed before ; 
 they threatened me with their clubs, but I perfifted 
 in my demand, drew my cutlafs, and went ftraight 
 up to the huts. They retreated, but at the fame 
 time called out bokatotago kokhmahoo (if you enter 
 our huts, we will kill you on the fpot) ; I took no 
 notice of their threats, and advanced with intre- 
 pidity and fpirit. But it ftruck me that it would 
 be more prudent to apply to the chief, and I went 
 immediately to the fourth hut, which was deco- 
 rated with boughs, and thereby diftinguifhed as the 
 reiidence of the chieftain. I haftened up to it, for 
 I was followed by a whole troop of armed men, 
 and expofed to the utmoft danger : on my arrival 
 at the hut, the chief fallied forth, holding a large 
 club in his hand. I entreated his afliftance and 
 protection againft his conuades, who threatened 
 to kill me, becaufe I demanded my property, of 
 which they had robbed me the preceding evening, 
 fie lifted with the_utmoil attention, conducted 
 
 me
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 131 
 
 me to the hut, and pointed to the grafs on which I 
 was to fit down. Having done fo, I was afked by 
 him, " from whence I came, and whither I was 
 going?" I anfwered him, and particularly ac- 
 quainted him that I had already fpent fix months 
 among his countrymen, had hitherto met with 
 a kind reception, and no where with ill treatment, 
 but in his kraal. I fnould not have come here at 
 all, I added, but that the neighbouring chiefs had 
 allured me, that here alfo I ihould receive protec- 
 tion. This fpeech had its effect; he anfwered, 
 " Here too thou liialt be fate ; thy effects fhall be 
 reftored ; ftay here, I will go and fetch them." He 
 faid a few words to the by-ftanders, which I did 
 not underftand, and went away : in a fhort time 
 after he brought me the axe and the Itock of 
 the firelock, but the barrel of which was already 
 broken in pieces, to convert into haiiagays. I was 
 happy in having recovered my axe, but com- 
 plained to him that the gun was rendered uklefs, 
 by its barrel being broken. He fent for the man 
 who had taken it, talked with him, and was 
 about to ftrike him with his club ; but I fprung up 
 from the ground, embraced the chieftain, and en- 
 treated him not to hurt the poor fellow. I fuc- 
 ceeded in allaying his paffion, and he laid down his 
 dub : I was obliged to refort to this means of 
 
 o 
 
 conciliating the friendihip of the by-ftanders, left 
 K 2 they
 
 Ill I'KAVLS IN fHE 
 
 ihould way-lay me on my departure. Having 
 eaten fome more phims and milk, I quitted this 
 odious kraal, attended by the chieftain, who fliowed 
 me the right road* In the evening I reached the 
 river Tambu, and perceived kraals both on my 
 Tight and left : and though my flock of provifions 
 was very fcanty, confifting only of fome meat 
 and plums, I did not venture to vifit them, but lay 
 down on the bank of the river, where I cut down 
 a tree to ferve me as a raft for eroding it. The 
 next morning I effected my paifage, and began 
 to fifh j but could not catch any thing except fome 
 mufcles which I broiled on a fire and made a good 
 meal. Before me lay a plain, chequered with fand 
 and rced-grafs ; I took my road acrofs it, as I wifhed 
 to avoid the huts, which I perceived on the chain 
 of mountains to the eaflward. In a kind of mea- 
 dow I found on a little fand-hill an oftrich neft 
 with feven eggs, which gave me much plcafure. 
 Although I had travelled but fix miles, I determined 
 to flop here for the night, cfpccially with a view to 
 drefs fome of the eggs. While I was gathering 
 firewood I found a number of good apples, and 
 collected alfo other provifions fuflicient for two 
 days. In the night I was vifitcd by wolves, tygers, 
 and elephants, at whofc fight I was not alarmed 
 half fo much, as at the fight of fome wild dogs, 
 who chaced fome buffaloes at a few paces diflance 
 
 from
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 131 
 
 from me. In order not to attract their attention, 
 i moved as clofe to the lire as I could poffibly bear, 
 and flirred it conftantly, that the fparks might 
 fprcad around, I thus remained without moleftation, 
 but was obliged to keep awake the whole night. 
 Towards morning, having llept a few hours, I 
 journeyed onward ; two hours after I arrived at 
 another arm of the river Tamba, perceived the ri- 
 ver itfelf towards the north-eafl, and on itsbank$ 
 feveral huts were vifible, which I could not poffibly 
 avoid. I therefore purfued the fame route, and 
 reached the river at five o'clock in the afternoon ; 
 it had overflowed its banks and inundated the ad- 
 jacent country. From the heavy falls of rain, 
 which generally attend a thunder -ftorm in thefe 
 parts, fuch inundations are frequently effected in a 
 few hours. 
 
 I came to the huts near the river, the inhabi- 
 tants of which I found engaged in fifhing. On 
 my aiking permiffion to Hay all night in their kraal, 
 they looked at each other, but returned no anfwer. 
 My bundle proving rather troublefome to me, I 
 put it on the ground, and endeavoured to afiifl 
 them in fifhing, which they did not object to. At 
 laft one of them addreffed me in a language which 
 I did not comprehend ; apparently angry on ac- 
 
 K 3 count
 
 I 34 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 count of my ignorance, he left me and joined his* 
 companions ; I followed, and- addreffed ieveral of 
 them, but none could give me an anfwer. I now en- 
 deavoured to exprefs my defires by looks and gef- 
 tures, afked for fome milk, and obtained a potful, 
 for which I gave an oftrich egg to the man who 
 brought it ; at firft he would not accept of it, but 
 he took it at length. I fat down near the huts, 
 and was foon furrounded by a crowd, who did 
 not do me the leaft harm. The circumftancc that 
 I could not make myfelf underftood gave me 
 great concern, as 'they would probably have be- 
 llowed on me many other favours. Having ex- 
 prefied by figns my wifh to take repofe on this 
 fpot, and placed my bundle under my head, fome 
 of the girls fetched immediately fome fheep-fkins, 
 to ferve me for bedding and covering. Convinced 
 of their friendly fentiments towards me, I feized 
 one of the girls and drew her down on the fkins ; 
 fhe fhrieked out, but foon grew quiet, as fhe faw 
 that the by-ftande'rs were laughing at her. I let 
 her go, but the by-ftanders puflied her back again ; 
 I kept her accordingly until the evening, when fhe 
 haftencd away with the reft of the company. I 
 fell aflecp, though I was tortured by hunger, 
 having been kept awake feveral fucceffivc nights, 
 by the fear of wild beafts. 
 
 Early
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 135 
 
 Early in tli morning I was awakened by the 
 above-mentioned girl, who brought me fome 
 milk and a roafted fifli. Having" finiihed my meal 
 flic beckoned me to follow her, which I did with- 
 out the leaft hefitation. She conducted me to a 
 hut, where I was furrounded by a number of 
 people, who fupplied me with plenty of milk. A 
 young man invited me to flay with them, becaufe 
 the river had overflowed, an invitation which I 
 accepted. The girl then carried my bundle into 
 the hut, and feeing that a fire was burning, I 
 followed and put an oftrich-egg into it, to prepare 
 a meal. In the meantime the mother returned 
 from milking: ; me :ave me fome warm from the 
 cow, and treated me very kindly. She was a 
 widow, to whom their law gave permillion to 
 entertain a ftranger. I muft confefs upon the 
 whole that I was much aftonifhed at the kind 
 treatment which I experienced, as the horde was 
 part of the fame nation as the kraal was, where I 
 had been fo ill ufed. I affifted them in fifhing, 
 hunting, cutting up the game, and the like. I 
 made in particular another and better fort of fifli- 
 ing tackle than was in ufe, and thereby gained 
 their particular friendihip and efteem. Gn my 
 enquiries, whether I could travel in fafety on the 
 other fide of the river, I learnt that the people who 
 inhabited thofe parts were extremely ferocious, 
 
 K 4 and
 
 I36 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 and at the fame time very poor, from the ftcrility 
 of their jtbil,and yet I could not avoid them without 
 taking a very circuitous route. I therefore, after 
 ftaying nine days with this friendly horde, refolved 
 to pafs the river and turn north, in which direc- 
 tion I knew I mould find fome other kraals of the 
 f$tne nation. The above-mentioned girl and three 
 men accompanied me as far as the mountain, 
 where they took leave of me in the mod affectionate 
 manner. ?rom the fummit of the mountain I 
 perceived the fea at a confidcrable diftance, and 
 faw before me an immenfe chain of mountains, 
 interfperfed with fome infulated huts. On de- 
 fending the mountain, and walking through a 
 narrow dale, I obfervedon my right fix high huts, 
 towards which I fliaped my route. When I ar- 
 rived at the firft and faw nothing of the inhabi- 
 tants,. I called for fomebody to come out, but re- 
 ceived an unintelligible anfwer, and no perfon ap- 
 peared. At length I took courage and entered the 
 hut, where 1 heard the found of a man's voice ac- 
 companied with groans. I afked, who was there, 
 but received no anfwer. As I was turning round to 
 quit the hut a man came crawling after me, whole 
 afpeft was truly frightful. He had the fmall-pox* 
 
 1 . 
 
 * Probably this was not the true Furopean fmall-pox, but 
 ionic endemic cutaneous diftemper of that part of Africa. 
 
 in
 
 Interior of Africa. J37 
 
 in a degree of malignity, which I have never 
 obferved in any European ; added to which the 
 red and white appearance of the eruption formed 
 a lingular contraft with the black colour of the 
 body of the patient. The fright with which I 
 was ftruck at firft was foon turned into pity ; I pre- 
 fented the object, with an oftrich egg, and haftened 
 away to vifit the habitations of the healthy. Thefe 
 fix huts were deftined folely for the reception of 
 fick people, who, from the dread of their diforder, 
 were very badly attended. The fmall-pox is 
 dreaded here as the moil horrid difeafe ; whoever 
 is afflicted with it muft quit the horde, and retire 
 to feparate huts ; where being vilited by no perfon 
 he muft perifli in want and mifery, unlefs he has 
 fupplied himfelf with provifion, or preferves fuf- 
 ficient ftrength to leave the hut in queft of food. 
 I hailened away left I mould be noticed by the in- 
 habitants of the kraal, fituated at fome diftance 
 from thefe huts, and in confequence either refufed 
 admifiion or ill ufed. On my drawing near to 
 the kraal, which corififted of about feventy huts, I 
 was furrounded by fo great a crowd, that I could 
 not move. At laft I was accofted by the chief, a 
 handfome young man, who conducted me to the 
 kraal, and opened an empty hut, which I entered. 
 I addreiled the chief, who, to my great joy, under- 
 
 ftood
 
 1$$ TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 flood at leaft fome exprefilons of the idiom of the 
 Caffres, and told him whence I came and whither 
 I was going. He heard me with attention, but 
 now and then caft a look at my bundle, which 
 (eemed to indicate that he wanted fome of its con- 
 tents. Having three {hillings in my pocket I gave 
 them to him > he was extremely pleafed, looked 
 frequently at the money, and was more ready td 
 afhft me. I a&ed for fome milk ; he went away, 
 and in a fhort time a young woman brought me 
 milk and cakes. When others reft few him they 
 Ekewife brought milk. In the evening I was 
 going to prepare my couch, but was prevented by 
 the people, becaufe this hut had been inhabited by 
 perfons afflicted with the fmall-pox. I therefore 
 made my bed before the hut, and feveral of the 
 by-ftanders brought me hides and (kins for a cover- 
 ing. The next morning I was feized with a head* 
 ach, and a confiderable degree of fever. I did not 
 get up as I was in hopes of bringimjon a perfora- 
 tion ; but was furrounded by a great crowd. Se- 
 veral of them being apparently of opinion that I 
 had caught the fmall-pox, I fhowed them the 
 pock-holes in my body and in my face to allay 
 their fears, and told the chieftain, who underftood 
 me tolerably well, that my illneis was occafioned 
 by my Having laft night drank milk immediately 
 after eating plums. The next day I was perfectly 
 
 recovered,
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. I39 
 
 recovered, but I bruifed into a powder fome of 
 the leaves, which fometime ago I received from 
 a mampa, the falutary effects of which I had 
 already experienced ; I took this powder, and it 
 produced fuch ftrong evacuations that the fever 
 entirely left me. They probably would have in- 
 lifted on my continuing here fometime longer, 
 had not fome of them been apprehenfive that my 
 indifpofition might prove to be an infectious dif- 
 cafe. Before the kraal I faw feveral fields of mil- 
 let and Indian corn. 
 
 I travelled over a fruitful vale fifteen miles in 
 length, in front of the above-mentioned chain 
 of mountains, and I found variety of fruit-trees. 
 I did not tafte of the fruit, my appetite being 
 taken away by the exceflive heat of the weather. 
 At night I kindled a fire, near a brook which 
 watered this vale, on a fpot where I intended to 
 pafs the night, but was prevented from fieeping by 
 the great number of laro;e and imall fnakes which 
 
 o o 
 
 were attracted by the fire. In the morning I faw 
 alio a great many baboons, feveral of which were 
 three feet and half in height. They were perched 
 upon the neighbouring trees. I could not intimidate 
 them, either by throwing ftcnes at them, or by 
 hallooing ; feveral of them even came up to me, 
 ad flared me in the face. On account of thefe 
 
 animals
 
 l.p TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 animals I could not Hart early, but was obliged to> 
 wait until they had retired into the woods. On 
 quitting the vale, I came to a fine plain, thinly 
 intcrfperfed with huts. Not far from hence is the 
 boundary between the Jamatians and Muhatians, 
 about half a day's journey from the river Ma- 
 kumba. I took the route towards the next horde, 
 confuting of about forty huts, and was well re- 
 ceived. The inhabitants danced around me, 
 brought milk and millet-cakes, and mewed me 
 great kindnefs. My company did not leave me 
 till late in the night ; a couch was afligned me 
 before the hut of the chieftain, and covered with 
 hides and fkins, brought by the inhabitants. 
 When I awoke, I found a crowd aiTembled round 
 me, and was regaled with a plentiful breakfaft. I 
 fliould have been happy to have offered them fome 
 prefents in return, but having fewed up my money 
 in my waiftcoat, I did not think fit to open it, 
 left it mould tempt their rapacity. I refolved to 
 flay here a few days, to gather, if pofiible, fome 
 information refpecting the neighbouring tribe, 
 which, by fome other kraals, had been defcribed 
 as a cruel and rapacious nation, but which, from 
 what I now learnt, did no injury to Hangers, 
 when vifiting their kraals. An old man took 
 particular notice of me, admired in particular my 
 drefs, and evinced a ftrong defirc to put on my 
 
 breeches.
 
 INTERIOR OF. AFRICA. I4I 
 
 breeches. The pair I wore being full of vermin, 
 I took fome clean linen drawers out of my bundle, 
 which he accepted with a deal of pleafure. I pre- 
 fented his daughter, a fine girl about fifteen years 
 old, with a drift, and put it on her rnyfelf. The 
 whole company were highly pleafed with it, and 
 endeavoured to exprefs their fatisfaefcion by en- 
 creafed kindnefs. At this place I made rnyfelf an 
 apron of two fheep fkins, which reached round 
 my whole body, and to prevent vermin from 
 harbouring in it, I greafed it all over with the flit 
 of a Iheep's tail ; this apron rendered me much 
 fervicc. I likewife excrcifed rnyfelf, under the di- 
 rection of the above-mentioned fenior, in throwing 
 the javelin, went a hunting, and endeavoured to 
 acquire fome knowledge of their language. During 
 my ftay among them they prefled from a fruit, 
 which they call gagaboguha, a kind of wine which 
 tailed exceedingly well. I infenfibry became tipfy 
 by drinking it, fo that I began to be very merry 
 and to fing. When they heard this in the kraal, 
 numbers, efpecially young women, crowded around 
 me. The young women brought me more of the 
 wine in excavated gourds, and emulou fly prefled 
 me to drink it. Thefe copious draughts at length fo 
 completely intoxicated me, that I laid hold of, and 
 kifled feveral of the girls, and danced ancl gamboled 
 about with them. This was quit to their tafte, 
 
 and
 
 143 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 and fecured me their favour. From that time 1 
 was fuperabundantly fupplied with proviiions, and 
 treated with great refpect. If I appeared to be 
 dejected, the by-flanders would likewife aifume an 
 air of melancholy : and when I became cheerful, 
 they e^prefied great fatisfa&ion and joy. ><L 
 
 
 This is not an improper place to give fome ac- 
 count of the origin, manners and cuftoms of the 
 people of this nation, efpecially as they, and fome 
 other of the tribes inhabiting this trad of country, 
 have been defcribed as fanguinary and ferocious 
 favages. 
 
 The Jamatian* and their neighbours conquered 
 at the fame time the kingdom of Angola from 
 the fouthern Caffres : but at what period of time 
 this event took place cannot now be accurately 
 determined. They themfelves fay, that it hap- 
 pened auroreup, i. e. 300 years ago ; but thefe 
 years confuting of only ten lunar months, do not 
 correfpond with an equal number of our years. 
 Others place this conqiiefr as far back as four hun- 
 dred years. The moft probable opinion is, that the 
 Jamatiuns invaded Angola at the time when the 
 Portugueze landed on the African coaft, and who 
 endeavoured to propagate chriftianity by means of 
 fire and fword. 
 
 lie
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 143: 
 
 The language of the Jamatians is no longer 
 unmixed, many words and phrafes of it being 
 borrowed from that of the fouthern Cafires, fe- 
 veral of whofe cuftoms they have likewife adopted. 
 The following ufages are peculiar to this nation.. 
 The chief poflenes an almoft unlimited pow r er 
 over the horde ; he enacts laws and inflicts punifli- 
 ments. Like the Cafires, they generally choofe 
 a gloomy day for the execution of their crimi- 
 nals. In war time they are commanded by 
 their chief: but there being no proper fubordi- 
 nation of ranks, every individual is in general 
 left to act according to his judgment. Sometimes 
 forty or fifty of them form themfelves into a clofe 
 body and fall upon the enemy. If their leader be 
 killed or badly wounded, they choofe in his ftead 
 the perfon whom they think beft qualified by his 
 knowledge and courage. This nation may -be 
 eftimated to confift of about three thoufand fouls. 
 The men are moftly employed in hunting, and 
 the women in the management of domeftic 
 affairs and in the care of the cattle. The father 
 inftructs the fons, and the mother the daughters, 
 in their refpective employments ; and the grand- 
 father and grandmother teach them the maxims 
 of morality and the religious ceremonies. Cir- 
 cumciiion is not practifed among them. A young 
 Jamatian cannot obtain poileiiion -of his bride, 
 
 even
 
 144 TRAVELS IN THf 
 
 even after marriage, until he has given fome proof 
 of his courage and prowefs, as for inftancc, by 
 his killing fome ferocious beaft of prey, or the 
 like ; but having once performed fome valourous 
 action, he may many two or even more wives. 
 Adultery is punifhed with death. The women 
 are here treated much better than among many 
 other of the neighbouring nations, efpccially if their 
 flrft child happen to be a fon. Divorces feldom 
 take place ; complaints, are however made againil 
 a wife on account of barrennefs. The hufband 
 firft mentions it to the grandfather and grand- 
 mother, or, if they be dead, to the parents of his 
 wife , and they apply to the chief of the horde, who 
 ufually grants permiflion to the wife to make trial 
 of another partner. If fhe now prove pregnant, 
 her hufband muft, in the prefence of the whole 
 community, afk her pardon, and likewife invoke 
 the gods not to punifh him for having wrongfully 
 accufed her. The women bring forth their chil- 
 dren without much difficulty. When they feel 
 the pains of child-birth coming upon them, they 
 retire to one of the huts fet apart for the purpofe, 
 and are attended by their female relations. No 
 man, not even their own hufbands are allowed to 
 go near thefe huts. Four days after delivery, the 
 wife returns to the hut of her hufband. If the 
 newly -born child be a boy j the hufband has 
 
 already 
 
 1
 
 INTER] )R OF AFRICA. 1 45 
 
 already made preparations for a feaft : but if it be 
 a girl, the wife muft give an entertainment to her 
 female friends, at which however none of the 
 men are allowed to be prefent. The Jamatians, 
 and many other African nations and tribes, have 
 been accu fed of indolence: but I am convinced, 
 that if laborious Europeans were tranfplanted into 
 this country, they would not effect, more than the 
 natives. The exccAlve heat opprefTes the labourer 
 and exhaufts all his ftrength : to which it may 
 be added, that moft of thefe tribes are deftitute 
 of proper tools and implements of hufbandry, 
 mch as fpades, rakes, and other agricultural in- 
 ftruments, and that the ground is fometimes fo 
 parched and hard, that it is neceffary to cleave it 
 with a kind of axe. The preparing of the few 
 acres which they fow with millet and Indian corn, 
 requires much time and labour. I obferved here, 
 that two ftrong active men could not, with their 
 tools, prepare in one day more than fix fquare feet 
 of ground. After they have fown the Teed, they 
 cover the earth with fand, two inches deep, to 
 prevent the moifture from evaporating too quick- 
 ly, and the ground from cracking, if exccihve 
 heat fhoulcl immediately fucceed to rain. It is' 
 not then to be wondered ^t, that they nedeefc the 
 cultivation of the foil;" as from minting, ufliing, 
 and the keeping of numerous herds of cattle, 
 
 L they
 
 U6 . *&*Wi HI ni 
 
 they can derive greater advantages witli Ids totl 
 and trouble. The Jamatians are indeed much 
 addicted to pillage : but they are feldom guilty 
 of murder, nor do they ever devour their pri- 
 foners. Several European travellers, * who pre- 
 tend to have viiited this nation, alien that the 
 Jamatians were very fond of human flefh ; but 
 the aflertion is not true, at leaft, I never met with 
 an inftance of cannibalifm among them. A tra- 
 veller who underftands their language has nothing 
 to fear ; cfpeciaily if he be badly dreffed, and 
 carry no article of value .about him. 
 
 
 
 They bury the dead at a difrance from the 
 
 kraal ; and the relatives of the deceafed keep up 
 a fire on the grave for three days, that fo wild 
 beafts may not be attracted by the fcent of the 
 dead body. Few perfons die in the kraal. The 
 fick are in general removed to huts fituated 
 at fome diftance from it j for the Jamatians be- 
 lieve every difeafe to be infectious, and that 
 it is the duty of thofe in health to endeavour to 
 efcape the infections by every precaution in their 
 power. 
 __ ^ ^ u_j 
 
 * Koibf,.Spurmsuin, Patteribn, jTihI otlwrs* 
 
 .
 
 KNTIZRIOR OF AFRICA. I47 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 The Anther leaves the Territory cf the Jamatians, 
 and gees to that of the Muhotlahs, where he is 
 treated at firfi with Severity, but en every Occajion 
 favoured by the Women The Bodies of five mur- 
 dered Europeans arc fhewn him He is in Dan- 
 ger of becoming the Viclim cf unnatural Lufi 
 Makes his Efcapc, and arrives at another Kraal cf 
 the Muhoiians, whence he is freely fuffcred to de- 
 part Arrives at the Mucwnbo-river, and the 
 Village of the Kamtarians Defeription cf that Na- 
 tion, their Characler, Cufloms, Manners, Lan- 
 guage, &c. 
 
 FTER a refidence of three weeks among 
 them, I left the kraal of the Jamatians, and 
 purfued my journey in a direction more to the 
 north than the eaft, hoping thus to be able to 
 crofs the Macumbo with left difficulty. Having 
 travelled through a beautiful plain, five German 
 miles in length, and half a mile in breadth, I, 
 towards evening, palled the river on a raft which 
 
 L 2 I had
 
 I48 TRAViLS IX 'TH 
 
 I had made for that purpofe. On the oppollte 
 bmk I kindled a fire, rc(b] ving to Kali tore for 
 the night. My cloaths being full of vermin, I 
 here burnt them, preferving only my waiitcoat, in 
 the lining of which I had fewed my moi:e\ ] 
 Some gems-bocks approaching clofe to the fire, 
 I had the good fortune to kill one of them with 
 my hatchet, and roailed part of the carcafe for 
 my {upper. 
 
 In the morning I began to afcend a chain of 
 mountains, which divides the territory of the Ja- 
 matians from that of the Muhotians, and had 
 reached its fummit before noon. Towards even- 
 ing I had left thefe mountains in my rear, and 
 before me lay a large fandy level. Here I dug a 
 bed for myfclf in the land, and flept undilrurbcd 
 all night. I had not proceeded far on the follow- 
 ing day, when, for the firft time, I law ibme Mu- 
 hotians. It was a hunting party coniifting of fix 
 men. They probably would not have fcen me, 
 if I had not 'called to theni. On heating my 
 voice, they halted. I went up to them, and ad- 
 tlrefling them in the Calrrerian language, afked, 
 whether they had been fuccefsful in the chace ; 
 whereupon one of them aniwered : " Yes ; for wo 
 have caught an uncommon animal ^**JSHftthfe% 
 
 me 
 : 1 '
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 1 49 
 
 me. Their looks and whole appearance were 
 wild and lavage. Thev had killed a larsje roc- 
 buck, which they forced me to carry. My 
 ftrength failing me, I ievcral times funk under my 
 burden ; but was forced by blows to take up my 
 load again, and to follow them feveral miles 
 through bullies and high reed-grafs, to the great 
 diversion of my companions, who laughed at the 
 plaintive tones with which I implored their com- 
 panion. It was near evening before we reached their 
 kraal, which was iituated on a level adjoining to 
 an arm of the river Macumbo, and conhTted of 
 about forty badly-conftructed huts. Moft of the 
 inhabitants of the kraal came running out to fee 
 the ftrange animal, as my conductors called me. 
 As foon as I had thrown down the roe-buck, they 
 began to rummage my bundle, and even pulled 
 off the apron I had tied round my loins, expofmg 
 me as a flicw to the curious eyes of the croud. 
 A number of women and young girls viewed me 
 in thi>, flate, and laid to the by-fhmders, that I was 
 very handfome ; they, likewife begged of the men 
 to reitore my apron to me, but were told in reply, 
 that I looked much better without it. At night 
 they put me into the farther corner of a hut, to 
 prevent my efcaping, and gave me only a hide to 
 lie down on. I was much deje&ed, for I expected 
 nothing but ill ufage here ; however I was under 
 L 3 the
 
 I50 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 the neceffity of refigning lnyfelf patiently to my 
 fate. Being exceffively thirily, I rcqucfted fome- 
 thing to drink ; and they gave me milk and a 
 cake made of millet. On the following morning, 
 being refreshed by fleep, and feeling my ftrength 
 and courage revive, I firmly refolved, to refill if 
 they attempted to repeat the harm treatment I 
 had endured tie preceding day, even iliould it 
 cofl me my life. Moll of the inhabitants of the 
 hut being gone, I arofe, and, as they had not re- 
 florcd my apron to me, I fattened the hide, on 
 which I had flept, round my body, and then went 
 to the door of the hut, where I found the .miiirJ> 
 of it, and demanded of her the articles 1 had loll. 
 She couid not anfwer me ; but intimated to me by 
 means of %ns, that I mud remain in the hut, or 
 her hufband would beat me. I repeated my re- 
 ejueft, and me now iignified to me that the things 
 belonging to me weic, indeed, depoiitcdin the hut, 
 but that fhe durit not deliver them up to me. She- 
 gave me fome milk and millet, and I fwallowed 
 both with the greater! avidity. I then began to 
 <kin and cut up the roe -buck in die manner 1 had 
 feen it done in Europe ; and while I was thus cm- 
 ployed, my hod returned, who feemed to be well 
 pleafed with what I was doing. However, lie at- 
 tempted to pull off the hide which I had wound 
 round mc :,but 1 refitted. My refoiute behaviour 
 
 flartled
 
 INTERIOR OF .M'KdCA. ic'l 
 
 Jhirfled him, and he fecmed to aajtueuVej'he went, 
 however, into the liut to fetch his club, with. 
 which he menaced me, but I took courage, and, in 
 my turn, threatened htm with the knife* which 1 
 then held in my hand. This imprudence might 
 have coft me my life ; for the by-fbnders laughing 
 aloud at myantagonift's expence, it ib enraged him, 
 that he leaped towards me with'k deiign to knock 
 me down with his chibi I parried the blow, 
 wrenched the club from his hand, and brandiihed 
 it at him. Juft as I was aiming a blow at his head, 
 ieveral other men laid hold of me, and dragged 
 me away ; my antagonifl following with loud vo- 
 ciferation, and attempting to ftrike me.' I was 
 conducted to another hut, where I found an old 
 man, who feemed to be their chief. He viewed 
 me attentively, then lifted up my apron, probably 
 to difcover my lex, and at length, turning to my 
 enemy, he fpoke to him for a confiderable time 
 with great vehemence; but of their difcourfe, I 
 was only able to underftand a few unconnected 
 words. After they had apparently come to an 
 agreement on the matter in difpute, the old man 
 was going to lead me into his hut ; I requeited 
 
 * The blades of these knives are a foot long and two inches 
 feroad, an.1 not unlike the knives ased by fhoenitkcrs. 
 
 L 4 him
 
 IC 2 TRAVELS IN THK 
 
 . 
 
 him firft to order the articles, which had be-Jii 
 taken from me, to be reftored to inc ; and in par- 
 ticular my axe, but he aid not understand what 
 I meant. At length, however, my late hoft j \- 
 plained to him what. I wanted, and immediately 
 difpatched a boy, who foon returned with them. 
 I now went into the hut, glad to find a inciter 
 
 into 
 it t 
 
 where I micdit '-"take fome reft without bcjns ex 
 
 a 
 
 pofed to the croud and to the execfiive heat : but 
 the men allembled at the door of the hut, ftill 
 continued to talk about me, and I learned from 
 their converfation, that it had been refolved upon 
 to detain me, at leaft, till I fhould have begotten a 
 white child with one of their young women. In 
 the evening I was conducted to a place behind the 
 kraal, where the young women were dancing. 
 The old man invited me by figns to partake of 
 the diverfion ; but I was too hungry and faint to 
 be able to join them, and therefore flood ftill. lie, 
 however, foon began to encourage me again, and 
 rven brought me a handfomc young girl to be my 
 partner, i took hold of her hand, but did not 
 follow her to the dance. The girl gave me a look 
 which feemed to folicit me to dance with her ; 
 and when I told her, by means of figns, that I was 
 himcn-v, flic ran and informed the old man of it, 
 who immediately ordered a millet-cake and a large 
 piece of meat to be brought me. When I had 
 
 fatkfied
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 1 53 
 
 Satisfied my appetite, I fiarted up, laid hold of the 
 trirl, and mingled with the dancers. About half 
 an hour after, the old man returned to his hut, 
 whither 1 followed him, and my partner in the 
 dance went with us, with the intention of ileep- 
 h\g with me. Very early on the following morn- 
 ing, I attempted fecretly to make my efcape ; but 
 my bdci-rellow clifcovered my defign, and betrayed 
 me. My old hbft was going to ftrike me, but the 
 girl interceded in my favour. However I receiv- 
 ed no breakfaft, and, as a punifhment, was obliged 
 to carry wood to the hut. While thus, employed 
 1 made another attempt to efcape, and had tjie 
 good fortune to fuccecd. Having brought feveral 
 loads of wood to the hut, I pretended that I was 
 going to fetch fome more, but ran awayi n a direc- 
 tion quite oppofitc, and foon reached a ridge of 
 mountains, where I thought myfelf fecute from 
 purfuit. In this precipitate flight I had not been 
 able to bring away any thing except my waiftcoat 
 and axe : (till I was very glad to have, got off fo 
 well, and ran with as much fpeed as I pofiibly 
 could ; but became at length fo faint, that I was 
 unable to proceed to a kraal, which I faw at a coii- 
 fiderable diftance before me. Exhaufted by fatigue, 
 and tormented with hunger and thirft, I lay down 
 on the ground in a ftate of mind .bordering on 
 defpair, as I faw no profpect of relief or afliftance.
 
 : 54 TRAVELS m THE 
 
 length raifmg myielf up again, I efpied a herd 
 of cattle; and, exerting ail my remaining ftrength, 
 T went towards it, to requeft fome water of the 
 herdfman attending it. When I flrft addreffed 
 him, he threatened to ftrike me : but the fight of 
 
 wilder, which I had taken from my waiftcoat 
 on purpolc, fofjtoied his furiineis j and lie gave me 
 ibme milk an4F a millet-cake, and allowed me to 
 remain with him all night. At the nrft dawn of 
 day, however, I fecretly decamped, without taking 
 leave of the herdfman, who was yet afleep, and 
 foon entered a wood, winch extended in a north- 
 eafterly direction. At noon I had pafTed this wood, 
 and continued to purfue my journey through a 
 plain, where I found reed-grafs and a number of 
 trees which produced fruit fimilar to our plumbs. 
 Here I kindled a fire, intending to flcep ; but 
 was- driven away by a herd of elephants, and forced 
 to walk all ni^ht. At fun-rife I arrived at the 
 end of the plain, and faw on both fides of me huts 
 and mountains. Being exceflively fatigued, I lay 
 down in the grafs, ?.nd began to deliberate, whe- 
 ther, or not, I mould approach the huts. Having 
 rcfolved to avoid them, 1 began to fearch around, 
 in hopes of finding a fpring in the' neighbourhood 
 of the kraal ; for this purpofe I had proceeded in 
 an eafterly direction, but "finding none, was on the 
 point of turning to the north- eaft, when I per- 
 ceived
 
 IXri.RlOR OF AFRICA. I55 
 
 celved four pvVplc, with water-veiTels, crofTing my 
 rr,A obliquely from weft to cafL I ran asTaft as 
 i could towards them .: but foon discovered that 
 they were coming towards me. They were 
 women, who had been to, fetch water,- and who 
 alked me, by ugns, whence i came, and whither H 
 was cro-mor. I fiirnihed to thern, tfat I was looking 
 For water, whereupon one of thdft gave me her 
 pitcher, which I almbil emptied. She viewed, me 
 attentively, and winked to me to <;o with her to 
 the kraal. At Grit., indeed, J had refolved .not to 
 go thitjier ; but, being very hungry, I followed 
 them. On my arrival there, I was im mediately 
 furrounded by a great concourfe of people, among 
 whom, however, there were but few men. Thefe, 
 began to handle me in the fame indecent manner 
 as at the kraal I had laft efcaped from, and even 
 pulled me from one another, each attempting to 
 keen poiTenjon of me. I fat down on the ground, 
 and refolved to refill, if they mould again treat me 
 with fuch brutal rudenefs. The women, obferving 
 that I was hungry and thirfty, brought me meat 
 d milk, and while I was eating, formed them- 
 ielves into a circle around me, to hinder the men 
 from interruntins; me. An old man, who was the 
 chief of the kraaJ, now made his appearance. 
 After viewing me attentively, he ordered the 
 women to lift me up, and lead me to his hut, 
 
 iuppofing,
 
 1$6 TRAV.fLS- IN THE 
 
 fuppofiji:-, perhaps, that I was not able ta walk 
 alone. He ordered fbrne fleih and milk to be 
 given me, and after I had eaten it, obliged me to 
 accompany him and his ion -in-law to a 'th: 
 diftant about half an hour's walk from the* kraal. 
 My conductors itdfpped at a fad-hilloeJk, from 
 which they reflppved the brum-wood with whiui 
 it was covered, and, O God ! what a horrible 
 fpeclacle prefented itfelf to my view ! the bodies 
 of five whke men, pierced with in numerable 
 wouuds, and M'ho had probably been murdered 
 with javelins ! Surprife and terror fo over- 
 powered me, that I had nearly fallen down fenfe- 
 fels on the dead bodies; for I believed that I too 
 had been brought thither to be murdered. My 
 two companions afked me, by means of %ns, 
 whether I had known tlieie men ; and I anfwered, 
 that 1 1 had not. I carefully examined the bodies, 
 hoping to difcover to what country they had be- 
 longed : but found no diflinguiming national 
 marks, except the figure of a crofs, and under it 
 the letters H. I. E. M. and the date of the year, 
 1799, on the right arm of one of them j but they 
 were in fo putrid a ftate, that I did not attempt 
 to turn them. Having a^ain covered the bodies 
 with the bruin-wood, and returned to the kraal, 
 I fignified my defire to proceed on my journey, 
 hut was not allowed to depart. I therefore firmly 
 
 refolved
 
 INTERIOR Of 1 AFRICA. I57 
 
 refolved, tliat if I found they attempted to im* 
 molate me as they had done the Europeans, 
 I would prevent them by piercing my own heart 
 with a fliarp-pointed piece of iron. 
 
 My new mafters employed me in carrying 
 wood, fetching water, and cutting up the game, 
 which they happened to kill : but a perfon always 
 attendee! me as a guard, commonly the fon-in-law 
 of the old chief. As I performed with eafe and 
 difpatch the talks impofed upon me, I had leifure 
 every day to walk about the kraal, and, as they 
 began to treat me with more mildnefs, I refolved 
 to remain here fome weeks in order to acquire a 
 knowledge of the country and language ; but I 
 foon altered my intention. One morning, when 
 I was at a neighbouring thicket cutting* fome 
 wood, attended, as ufual, by the fon-in-law of the 
 old chief, the villain made me a propofal of a moit 
 {hocklng nature. I ftaried back with abhorrence, 
 and refifted his infamous attempt : but he began 
 to employ force, threw me on the ground, and 
 beat me fo unmercifully, that my whole body wa& 
 covered with brinies' 'and Kvid fpots. Oics and 
 tears had 'no effect upon hiin ; at la; J however, 
 when' he Maw that 1 not even the moil - violent treat- 
 ment could extort inyconfent to the gratmcaikm 
 of his abominable defires,he deMsd,arid fct itie ]*& 
 
 I was
 
 l& TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 I was fcarcely able to wait, but was, notwithfland- 
 ing, banged to take a bundle of wood upon my 
 mouldcr^, and carry it to the kraal. 1 was froirftr, 
 to inform the old man of what had happened, bttt 
 the fon-in-law threatened to kill me With h: < 
 javelin, and told him that I had endeavoured to 
 cfcape, and Ithat, when he had ilrovj To 
 hinder me, I had attacked him with a piece of 
 wood. In confequence of this falfe accufation, 1 
 received no breakfaft, and was treated with greit 
 contempt and harfhnefs. At laft, 'being alone with 
 the old man, I informed him by means of figns, 
 how his fon-in-law had behaved towards me, and 
 for what rcafon he had beaten me. The old man 
 laughed, and feemed to confider it as nothing un- 
 common. This made me more attentive, and I 
 now difcovered, that the contention at my firit 
 arrival in the kraal arofe from every one's wifhing 
 to obtain poflefiion of me for the fame abomina- 
 ble purpofe ; and indeed, other attempts were 
 afterwards made to feduce me. I likewife learn- 
 ed, that a quarrel had taken place between this 
 horde and a horde of the Kamtarians refpecting 
 the above-mentioned Europeans, whofe bodies I 
 had feen ; each party having endeavoured to feize 
 them, for the fake of their property, and for the 
 gratification of their diabolical lufts. The hoflile 
 horde, I was told, had at laft killed, and robbed 
 
 them,
 
 IN YE UXOR O? AFRICA. I 59 
 
 them, and left their naked bodies ; and' that the 
 Muhotians had carried them to the place where I 
 had feen them, and covered them with the brufh- 
 Vv'ood. r riiefe Kamtarians, who poflefs a tract of 
 country to the north-call of the territory of the 
 Muhotians, were deicribed to me as a favagc 
 and cruel race of men ; and they were then at war 
 with the Muhotians ; for thefe reafons therefore 
 I was afraid to proceed directly into their country ; 
 neither could I proceed in another direction, as 
 the broad and deep river Lorenzo would foon 
 hinder my farther progrefs. But as the fame ab- 
 horred propofals were repeatedly made to me, and as 
 I feared that I mould, fome day or other, be again 
 aflaulted in the wood, and be killed for refilling 
 their unnatural deiires, I determined, however 
 great the danger, to make my efcape 'die firft fa- 
 vourable opportunity, and proceed on my journey. 
 An opportunity foon occurred : they were cele- 
 brating a war-feaft,* and in the evening, amidft 
 their dancing, and rejoicing, neglected to watch me 
 with their ufual ftrictnefs and attention. 
 
 * This was a feafi, at which they were to determine upon 
 war, and to enquire, whether in the pretention of it thiey 
 might be luccefsful or not. . The following is their manner -cf 
 proceeding on fuch pecaiions. 
 
 it a neighbouring nation has declared war agaiftft them, or 
 
 he
 
 l6o TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 B 01 Will 
 
 I therefore feized my axe, haftened to tin? 
 foreft, whence I bad frequently fetched wood, and 
 effected my efcape. I ioon readied a mountain, 
 pafled it with all poflible ipced, and journeyed on, 
 though wild bcafts occaiionally checked my progrefs. 
 At dawn of day I flit down on a rock and ate 
 the meat and millet-cake, which I had brought 
 with me. Having refted an hour, I purfued my 
 journey, and reached a fruitful vale covered with 
 numerous trees, where I quenched my thirft with 
 the afore-mentioned fruit, Gegahoguha. At noon 
 
 if they are in want of provhions, and their neighbours have an 
 abundance thereof ; the oldest men of the horde affemble at the 
 hut of the chief, and deliberatehow tofubdue their enemies or rob 
 them of their property. If the rcfult oftheix deliberation turns 
 out favourable to the cntcrprizc two of the moft (kilfulhunters 
 are diipatched to kill two roe-bucks, which are roatfed.on the 
 following, day, when- the war-feafc is properly, celebrated. 
 While the bucks are roafting the chief informs the .multitude of 
 the refolution, taken by him and the elders, and then begins to 
 cut up the rnafted game, at the fame time exclaiming, " I 
 " figM for you, and your welfare, and in the fame manner as I 
 " cut up this game, and devour part of it, fo will we deftroy 
 'I and burn, our enemies." Everyone of tbe company then 
 tears a piece from the roalied buck, repeats the words of the 
 chief, and eats the meat. This ceremony bcin^ fnni(l;<'d, tbe 
 bones a'rethrbwH into the fire, which they dsroce at< 
 They commence from that moment the neccflafy prepara- 
 tions foe war, and march in a few Mays. 
 
 I came
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. l6l 
 
 I came to a rivulet eigftt feet in breadth, and from 
 three to four feet deep, the iiame of which, as I 
 afterwards learned, is Ouapakabp : it takes its rife 
 in a mountain, fituated to the weftward, and 
 bends its courfe to the fouth eaft, where it empties 
 itieif into .the river Makumbo. At the extremity of 
 the vale I perceived a kraal ; I wifhed to avoid it, 
 but was already too near, and perceived two men, 
 about twenty paces diftant, who were prepared to 
 receive me with their javelins. I threw myfelf on 
 the ground, and cried out. as they were drawing 
 near ft topar on/jako//' (the gods greet you.) On 
 their coming up to me, I obferved they were Mu- 
 hotians, and taking courage, requefted they would 
 give me fome water. They then directed me 
 to a fpring, on the other fide of their huts, where 
 I threw myfelf on the grafs, and refrefhed myfelf. 
 In a fhort time, upwards of an hundred perfons 
 crouded about me, who appeared to commifer- 
 ate my iituation. One gave me a piece of meat, 
 another, millet-cake and plums, and I was invited 
 by iigns, to enter their huts. I pretended not to 
 comprehend their iigns, and did not move, when, 
 fome of them endeavoured to drag me along. 
 Enraged at their treatment, I prepared to defend 
 myfelf with my axe, but was immediately feized, 
 deprived of my weapon, and dragged into the 
 kraal. There they fcrutuaked my drefe, and began 
 M to
 
 1 62 TRAVELS IK THE 
 
 to diicufs the queftion, to what nation I belonged. 
 From what I could undcrftand, the majority 
 were of opinion, that I was a Watadulihao, (man- 
 eater,) and ought either to be killed, or be clofely 
 confined and well treated, left I mould do mifchief 
 to their children. 1 however intimated to them, 
 that I was obliged to purfue my journey, a propo- 
 rtion, to wMch they did not object., and on the 
 fourth day after my arrival, three men attended 
 me out of the kraal, pointed out to me the direc- 
 tion in which I was to proceed, and fuffered me to 
 depart in peace. This happened onthe 26th of Sep- 
 tember ; between that day, and the ift of October, I 
 met with few other kraals of the fame nation, 
 palled another mountain, and reached the river 
 Makumbo, which was fwolicn fo much, that I 
 could fcarcely diftinguim the oppofite bank, and I 
 perceived, that huts for feveral miles extent, were 
 entirely covered with water. 
 
 1 . 
 On the 2nd of October, I faw the firft iKamtar- 
 rians. This nation inhabits a diftrict, on the 
 I r.nks of the river Tambo. Their chief means of 
 fubiiftence are hunting, and breeding of cattle. 
 The men are mod of tfiem oi' a fmall fi/e ;; they are 
 of a lighter colour than the three laft mentioned 
 nations, whom theyfurpaiis inipirk and courage, 
 and, from their Tupexior lkiJL in handling the 
 
 javelin,
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA 1 63 
 
 javelin, generally defeat them, although they 
 are not fo numerous. Their population is efti- 
 mated at from fix to feven thoufand combatants 
 and women; the latter are taller than the men, 
 and are lull of f'pirit and courage; the majority of 
 them are prilbners taken from other nations, and 
 detained .here. No girls are brought . up by this 
 nation ; thei'e are put to death as foon as they are 
 born. They have no prieits, although- it, may be 
 mppofed, the nation is not entirely without reli- 
 gion. The oldeff man of the village (their places 
 of refidence are not called kraals) is wholly the 
 chieftain and judge. Polygamy is permitted; and 
 the firit wife, who is in general more reipe&ed 
 than the reft, enjoys the right, in cafe, flic does 
 not become pregnant by her hufband, of chooiing 
 another man, and if flic bears him a boy, me be- 
 comes his wife. They are exceedingly fuperfti- 
 tious ; if, for infta.nce, one of the nation is wound- 
 ed, or killed by a wild beaft, in the day-time, they 
 iy, that he had offended the great goddeis; and if 
 it happens by night, efpecially when th& moon 
 mines, they are fatisfied, that he has offended the 
 little goddeis, and has thus been puniflied for his 
 mifconducl. In dark hazy weather, they lie in 
 their .'huts, in a ffate of abfolute inactivity and 
 floth, and the women perform only iuoh work as 
 h abfolute neceflary. If a woman dies in chikl- 
 M 2 birth,
 
 164 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 birth, (which however happens very ieldom j fhe 
 is buried in a feparate place, and her family is 
 obliged to pafs fix months, at a diftance from the 
 village, in feparate huts, without holding the> 
 fmalleil intercourfe with the reft of the tribe. If 
 a woman be delivered of a boy, in dark hazy 
 weather, or when the moon does not fhlnc, it is 
 concluded that his father has offended the gods, 
 and the boy is not deemed worthy of being a true 
 member of the nation ; confequently, when he 
 grows up, he is kept to menial labours, fuch as 
 cutting wood, looking after the cattle, and fuch 
 things. Neither circumcifion, nor any iimilar 
 cuftom is known to this nation. The dead are 
 ufually interred by their relations, under trees. 
 On the day of interment, a fire is kindled, to burn 
 the effects of the deceafed, and the alhes are thrown 
 into his grave. The fire is kept in, until the next 
 full moon. He who (teals from other tribes, a 
 wife or a girl, may keep her for his wife, or ic 1 
 her, in which latter cafe, he generally gets in c: - 
 change, a deep, or from four to fix hailagays, ac- 
 cording as me is more or lefs handfome. Stran- 
 gers are treated with hofpitality and kindnek. 
 
 A variety of opinions prevail, in refpect to the 
 origin of. this nation. Some aflert, that .they are 
 defcendedtfrom prince Nampagango,. a tyrannical 
 
 i l/l ruler,
 
 INTERIOR OF 'AFRICA. 
 
 165 
 
 ruler, who drove them out of his dominions, in 
 conference of which, they applied to the king of 
 Brigudis for protection, and by means of his ailift- 
 ance, put their tyrant to death. Others maintain, 
 that they owe their origin to Congo, but were ex- 
 pelled from that country. This latter opinion, 
 however, is confuted, by the idiom of their lan- 
 guage. I have not recognized a Angle word, 
 which is in ufe in Congo ; as a proof of this, I 
 mall mention a few words, efpecially the numbers, 
 in which a great many nations approach each 
 other the neareft, but which are widely different, 
 in the prefent inftance, i. e. 
 
 In Kamtarria. 
 
 In Congo, 
 
 Tohna, one. 
 Silka, two. 
 Sehafe, three. 
 Kutoy, four. 
 Jahi, live. 
 Mihita, fix 
 jahiau, feven. 
 Ajada, eight. 
 Lujah, nine. 
 Tahfa, ten. 
 Jalikaro, father. 
 Mohara, mother. 
 
 M 3 
 
 Alag, one. 
 Mazay, two. 
 Karij, three. 
 Prigo, four. 
 Abjet, five. 
 Wuifu, fix. 
 Emgui feven. 
 Mahzo, eight. 
 Benjoo, nine. 
 Nades, ten. : 
 Akalaj ah, father. 
 Eguanda, mother. - 
 Jujuh,
 
 I 
 
 1 66 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 /// Kiimtarrhu In Congo: 
 
 Jujuh, good. Kalrah, good. 
 
 Bryito, wicked. Luharahje, kicked. 
 
 Adulo, to fteal. Talhikah, to ileal. 
 
 In the dialect of Congo, the letter O, is pro- 
 nounced at the end of words, like U. The Kam- 
 tarrians pronounce the J, as ie. 
 
 - 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 .. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 Interior of africa. 167 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Account of the warlike Cujhms of the Kamtarrians.-* 
 Departure for the Kingdom of Biri Arrival at 
 Buhagari, the firji Town in that Kingdom Na- 
 tional peculiarities and mode of living of the Inha- 
 bitants The Author meets with a kind reception 
 Profecution of his Journey on the Banks of te 
 River Makumbo Chafacler of the Gohawanians 
 Defcription of the Kingdom of Matama?i-*-Na* 
 1io?ial Characler, Manners and Cujloms of the In- 
 habitants Journey to the Chief Town CSeenhofaJ 
 The Author is admitted into the Retinue of the 
 King, effects his Efcape, as he is in Danger of being 
 fold for a Slave ; receives a Wound in his Flight ; 
 an Inflammation takes place in his Fsot 9 which is 
 increafed by cruel Treatment from two Inhabitants 
 of Drofah ; is cured by another Inhabitant* 
 
 W' HEN I arrived at the huts, at firft I faw 
 few people, but a crowd foon gathered 
 around me, who feemed to exprefs joy, for they 
 were dancing and linging. Having intimated to 
 them by iigns that I was hungry and thirfty, they 
 brought me a handful of millet-meal and fome 
 M 4. four
 
 f()8 1 RA\ I.I.S IN TIU. 
 
 four milk. I was going to drink the milk, but 
 one of the by-ftanders took the vellel out of my 
 hand, put the flour into the milk, ftirred it with 
 a bone, which lupplied the place of a ipoon, and 
 returned it. At lirft I did not like this dim, but 
 was obliged to fwallow it, for want of fomething 
 better. I wifhed to purfue my journey, but as 
 the^' would not fuffer me to depart, they afligned 
 me an empty hut to lodge in, and gave me a 
 buffalo-hide for a covering. The next morning 
 they brought meat and four milk, and again in- 
 vited me to remain with them. Moft of the in- 
 habitants of both fexes marched againft their ene- 
 mies, the Muhotians, to give them battle (otako.) 
 The troop confuted of four hundred perfons, and 
 f law with pleafure that they obferved more order 
 than I had reafon to expect. The Wooliha (the 
 chief) made a fpeech, which was fucceeded by 
 a war-fong, at the clofe of which the troop, 
 formed four deep, began to move. The talleft and 
 ftrongeft' men marched in the front, and were 
 followed by thofe of a fmaller fize. They were 
 all armed with javelins and battle-axes, three feet in 
 length, and made entirely of hard wood ; then the 
 Women followed, ami the youth of both fexes, armed 
 with battle-axes, brought up the rear. I remained 
 behind in the care of a good old man, who w;k 
 continually addrefling me, without being able to 
 
 _ S ive
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. t6g 
 
 give him an anfwcr. He prefented me with a 
 new calabafh, and wanted my waiftcoat in return, 
 which gave me great uneafinefs, all my money 
 being fewed up in it. I pretended not to under- 
 Hand him, and he infilled no farther. The village 
 confided of one hundred and thirty-four huts, of 
 a srood conftruction : it was fituated in a fruitful 
 country, well provided with good water, and 
 called Afatehaji. 
 
 The third day after the march of the warriors", 
 a long was heard at fome diftance, which pro- 
 duced uhiverfal joy in the village; it was a trium- 
 phal hymn, and proclaimed the return of the 
 conquerors, that meat might be immediately 
 roaited, which was accordingly done without the 
 fmalleft delay. I haftened to meet the victors. 
 They returned in complete order, had had forty 
 wounded and feven killed, and had made fixteen 
 priibners, five of whom were women. In the 
 center of the village they formed a circle ; the 
 chief delivered a Ipeech, at the clofe of which 
 milk and meat were ierved up, and merriment 
 and joy appeared in every countenance. The pri- 
 loners were alfo fupplied with plenty of provi- 
 iions, and treated with- great kindnefs. The 
 wounds of the wounded were warned with a cer- 
 tain
 
 170 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 tain juice.* After dinner palm-branches were 
 diftributed among tliofe who had particularly dif- 
 timniifhcd themfelves in the battle. The female 
 prifoners were afligned to their captors, and from 
 that moment treated like the reft of the women* 
 The male prifoners obtained huts, and were con 
 fidered as natives of the village. I was not allow- 
 ed to fhare in the triumphal feaft, but was permit- 
 ted to aflift as a fpectator, and received the fame 
 portion or meat as the reit* 
 
 On the 7th of October, I obtained leave to pur- 
 fue my journey, and three perfons attended me 
 out of the village. At noon I reached a plain, 
 bounded on both fides by villages, which I endea- 
 voured to avoid. In the evening I afcended a 
 mountain, in the kingdom of Biri, on which I 
 pafled the night. The next day at noon I arrived 
 at Buhagari, the border-town, which contains 
 about feven hundred huts, and is fituated on an 
 arm of the river Makumbo. The inhabitants of 
 this kingdom are not altogether fo ferocious as 
 they are defcribed to be by their neighbours : 
 they receive and treat ftrangers with generofity 
 and kindnefs. The king enjoys but few preroga- 
 
 _- , 
 
 * The juice of the fruit of a tree, which !>y the inhabitants 
 is called ogmatyme, and alfo huluniu. 
 
 tives
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 171 
 
 tives above the chieftains of the villages and 
 towns. The latter are generally governed by two 
 of them, called monibaja (judges) ; they are, how- 
 ever, at the fame time priefts, inftructors of the 
 children, fortune-tellers, and prophets ; they alone 
 poffels the privilege of wearing mantles, made of 
 tyger and zebra-fkins. A mantle of this defcrip- 
 tion is called algohara bumkara (the prophet's drefs), 
 and procures to the wearer various marks of re- 
 fpeft, e. g. all who meet him are obliged to lay 
 the right hand on their head, the left on their 
 breaft, and remain in this pofture until he is gone 
 by. If any difputes of conlequence take place, 
 the chiefs are bound to inform the king of their 
 nature, and make a full report of the judgment 
 they have palled. In time of war, the chiefs lead 
 the combatants to battle, while the King remains 
 at Buhagari, his ufual place of refidence, and if 
 this city fhould be at any time expofed to an atr 
 tack, he withdraws to Azahhuia, another town, 
 fituated on the confines of Kaminaukais, which 
 is under his protection. 
 
 The population of this kingdom amounts to 
 about fixteen thoufand fouls ; the country is for 
 the moll part fruitful and well cultivated, yet the 
 breeding of cattle forms the principal branch ' of 
 induflry. The inhabitants derive confidcrable ad- 
 vantages
 
 ifi TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 vantages from a mine of rock-falt, which they ex- 
 change for young cattle. The men are fond of 
 hunting, yet do not neglect the cultivation of the 
 foil. They are tall and ftrong, and wear aprons 
 made of palm-leaves. The women are fhort and 
 hifty, wear aprons fimilar to thofe worn by the 
 men, and cover their breads with palm-leaves, 
 which they faften with ftrings tied behind : they 
 are upon the whole extremely baihful and modeft. 
 The colour of this nation is rather yellow than 
 brown. The bufmefs of education is conducted 
 with much feverity and rigour ; the father inftrucls 
 the boys, and the mother the girls, until they are 
 fix years old, at which time they are placed under 
 the inftruction of the Monibaja. Of their religious 
 principles, and cuftoms, I could learn but very 
 littic ; I obferved, however, that every morning 
 and evening they performed acts of devotion in 
 the open air, and practifed circuincifion though 
 without any attendant ceremony. No marriage 
 can be contracted without the knowledge of the 
 Monibaja ; nor is any divorce permitted, but in 
 cafe of barrennefs on the part of the wife. The 
 punifhmer.t of adultery confifts with refpect to 
 the adulterer in the lofs of his cattle, and the adul- 
 tercf:i is expelled from the communit y. Polygamy 
 is permitted. The ufual articles of food are milk, 
 t, and-flour; the latter is eaten mixed with 
 
 milk:
 
 INTERIOR OF APRICA. 173 
 
 milk : meat is rather fcarce. The huts ixp, ipad- 
 ous, and of a circular form ; the fides arc covered 
 with the bark of trees, and the top with reed- 
 graft. 
 
 I met with a kind reception, was iupplied with 
 plenty of provifions, and the Monihaja entertained 
 me in his hut. Being invited to remain here for 
 ibmc time, I readily accepted the invitation, this 
 being the hotteft of the year. I witneffed the 
 manner of gathering in their harveft, which was 
 conducted rather flowly, but in good order. The 
 day before the harveft began, all the magazines * 
 were fearched, and the grain that was found there 
 was diftributed among the inhabitants.! On the 
 liril day of harveft all the reapers affembled in one 
 place, offered up their prayers, and then marched 
 in proceffion, headed by the Monihaja ', to the field, 
 where the ears of the corn were cut off, and imme- 
 diately threlhed on hides. This was done with 
 a kind of roller moved backwards and forwards. 
 The grain freed from the chaff was carried into 
 the magazines, and the ftraw burnt. In a few 
 days the harveft-feaft was celebrated ; it lafted two 
 
 * Thefe arc a kind of cellars, which beleng in common to 
 all the inhabitants. 
 
 f TvVo children received as much as one adult. 
 
 daysj
 
 174 TRAVELS m .THE 
 
 days, and the third was a fail-day. The inhabi- 
 tants aifembled before the hut of the Monihaja, 
 every one carrying a palm-branch j and went 
 from thence in procefTion round the village, kin- 
 dled a lire, fat down around it and fmoaked to- 
 bacco. They cultivate barley, millet, and Indian 
 corn. I continued here twelve days, and was 
 treated with great hofpitality ; they even fupphed 
 me with provifions for the continuance of my 
 journey, which 1 purfued on the 21ft of October 
 on the banks of the river Mutumbc, 
 
 
 About noon I reached the village Amahkai, con- 
 futing of about forty huts ; here I was well receive 
 cd and luppiied with food and drink. I now 
 iiiaped my route to the north-eaft to avoid a large 
 mountain which lay before me, and arrived at a 
 lake, where I was obliged to itop. I kindled a 
 fire and ejideav cured to catch ibme fifli : I had gar 
 thered fome mufcles, when fuddenly 1 heard a 
 voice, crying " DobabahnJio Notbiaofer laba" 
 (ilrangcr, keep away from the lake) and turning 
 about law three mm approaching, who cautioned 
 me \ijl.h gen^rcs to beware of the lake, as it was 
 de^p, and in that iVafon contained hill perni- 
 cious .U> Lb Theyiinvite<I me to follow 
 
 wondered
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRTC?A. I75 
 
 wondered that my pfefehce attra&ed fo little no- 
 tice from the inhabitants, who, it mould feem, 
 wifhed me to believe that they had {ecn many 
 
 while people. 
 
 On the 2 2nd I travelled over a mountain at 
 ibme diftance from the afore-mentioned river, on 
 which I found a great number of fruit-trees, and 
 
 efpecially of plum-trees. 
 
 . 
 
 There are many wild beafts here : tygers and 
 lions pafTed me, without mewing any difpolition 
 to attack me ; this I afcribed to their having plenty 
 of food, as the whole tract of country abounds with 
 gazelles. The above-mentioned ridge of moun- 
 tains is of great length, extending from the north- 
 caft to trie weft, through the kingdoms of Ma- 
 tamba and Biri. I was obliged to pafs the night 
 on them, but met with no interruption from any 
 wild animal. 
 
 About eight o'clock on the following morning, 
 I had paffed beyond thofe mountains, and found 
 myfelf again on the banks of the above-mentioned 
 river, where I faw fome villages to my right, and 
 likewife before me. Being extremely thirfty, and 
 the plums, of which I had eaten a few during the 
 preceding night, having again caufed a violent 
 
 pain
 
 IjS TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 
 pain in my bowels, I haftened to the neareft vil- 
 lage, and fortunately found its inhabitants com- 
 panionate and humane. I begged of them, by 
 means of figns and geftures, to give a'fick man 
 leave to remain there a few hours. They net only 
 granted my requeft ; but two of their women 
 brought me fome new milk, and a piece of a cer- 
 tain root, which they defired me to chew. I then 
 lay down on the grafs, and foon fell a ileep. 
 When I awoke I found myfelf covered with fome 
 buffalo-hide^, and in a profufe fweat, for it now 
 appeared, that the root which I had chewed, 
 was, a powerful fudorific. When I got up I feU 
 myfelf quite reftored ; I ftaid, however, all night 
 at the village, and learned that it was called 
 Muiha. 
 
 On the following day, I proceeded to within a 
 fiSort diftance of the Satamaha, a large ravine near 
 the borders, without feeing a fmgle village. A 
 tall robuft man came up to me, and afked me, 
 whither I was going ? I anfwered, To my native 
 country. He adviied me to leave that road, as k 
 was not fafe, and to go with him. On my inquir- 
 ing to what country he belonged, he laid, that he 
 a y>ohawa\an, and that the borders of his 
 roiHitry were not more thai a quarter of a day's 
 journey diibuit. 1 to accompany him, and 
 
 * we
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 1 77 
 
 we fuon arrived at Zahmago, the firft village be- 
 yond the border. Here likewjfe every jone was 
 6urious to fee me ; my drefs efpecially excited, 
 much attention. Some feetned to take me for a 
 white flave, and (hewed an inclination to employ 
 me as fuch. But when they found that I did not 
 undei'fland their language, nor they mine, they 
 took me; for an Oriental j as I had intimated to 
 them by figns. They* therefore, behaved .very 
 friendly -to me, as they themfelyes derive their 
 origin from the Orientals* This nation is ycry 
 poor, as -they neither breed cattle* nor, ^cultivate 
 the foil, but fubfift entirely by hunting, and re- 
 ceive corn from the Birians, in exchange for the 
 fkins of the animals which they kill. They here 
 obtain, by preffure from a kind of plums, a li- 
 quor which taftes exceedingly- well, when mixed 
 with water. The number of inhabitants in the 
 whole ftate does not now exceed feyen thoufand 
 five hundred... This nation is faid to have r been 
 formerly very powerful, but by inceflanfc wars they 
 fo weakened themielves, that they Were driven 
 from their ancient territory, utuated, as they 
 themfelves fay, in a molt fertile tract of country 
 under the line. The King of Biri took compaffioa 
 on them, gave them an afylum in his kingdom. 
 They have become more peaceable, and have adopt-* 
 ed the laws, manners and cuftoms of the Birians, 
 
 N with
 
 178 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 
 with whom they are clofely allied by frequ I 
 marriages. They arc diftinguifhcd however from 
 the Birians by their fuperior Rrength of body, and 
 tallnefs of ftature ; by their flat nofcs and large 
 eyes, and by the cuftorn of wearing rings of the 
 teeth of animals in their nofes. Although they 
 are poor, they' entertain every ftranger twenty- 
 four hours : but unfortunately they are too much 
 addicted to theft ; for inftance, immediately after 
 my arrival in the village, a ftout young fellow took 
 my hatchet out of mv hand, and ran off with it. 
 Others, taking a fancy "for the buttons on my 
 waiftcoat, attempted to pull them off; and to 
 prevent them from ftripping me of the waiftcoat 
 itfelf, and with it of all my money, I cut off four of 
 
 the buttons, and prefented them to the chief, who 
 
 o , fin , , 
 
 protected me agjainlt any further attacks. 
 
 On the following morning 1 requeued the chief, 
 in whofe hut I had flept, to grant me a fare con- 
 duct through his territory : but probably he did 
 not underftand me, as he only pointed to the tract 
 through which my route lay. I therefore pro- 
 ceeded alone ; and foOn came to a thicket ; here I 
 fat down, and cut off all the remaining buttons 
 from my waiftcoat, that I mieht travel with more 
 fecurity in future, by thus removing every thing 
 that might tempt the natives to ill treat me. 
 
 After
 
 INFERIOR OF AFRICA. 1 79 
 
 After an hour's walk I arrived at a village ; 
 which was iituated on the fide of a hill, and conflfted 
 of feventy huts. I entered it for the purpoie of 
 lilling my calahafh with Water, and fortunately 
 made myfelf underftood by the inhabitants, as 
 one of them comprehended feveral of my words. 
 When I requeued fome water, they conducted me 
 to the well, and brought me a flick, to which was 
 fattened the half of an excavated gourd, with which 
 I drew up fome water, and filled my calabafh. 
 Though numbers of the inhabitants flocked round 
 me, from motives of curiofity, yet I was permitted 
 to purfue my journey without moleftation. t 
 now had to climb, with much danger and diffi- 
 culty, over a rocky chain of mountains, which 
 flretched towards the north : and with fatigue, 
 after a journey of three leagues, arrived at Ba- 
 jaka, almofl fainting with thirft and heat. Here, 
 after I had refrefhed myfelf with food and drink, 
 I laid down by the fide of a hut, and flept all night 
 in the open air, without any covering; in confe- 
 quence of which I was alllicled with a violent 
 catarrh and ccu^h. 
 
 On the 26th and 27th the road was /again very 
 bad, and rugged ; and I found only one village, 
 conliftincT of feventeen huts. 
 
 '-}- ' ., >,j i 
 
 Na On,
 
 iNo TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 On the 20th and 29th I travelled a plain, in 
 which I here and there found bufhesand clumps of 
 trees. On the latter day, I was obliged to take re- 
 fuge iu one of the trees, being purfucd by fix wild 
 dogs. After remaining there fomc hours, I ven- 
 tured, to fet forward again ; but proceeded with 
 great difficulty and pain, having neither provifions 
 nor water, and being obliged to fubfift entirely on 
 rpots and leaves. 
 
 On the 39th, I entered a valley, and foon after 
 arrived at the borders of the kingdom of Mataman, 
 which is bounded by the river Sohxnoh. This 
 river runs through the valley ; it is in general not 
 more than eight or nine feet wide, but in winter it 
 frequently fwells to fuch a degree, as to overflow 
 the whole valley, which is two miles in breadth. 
 This kingdom is mountainous : there are, how- 
 ever, many fruitful vallies, moil: beautiful mea- 
 dows, and an abundance of fruit trees ; but the 
 natives are too indolent - to improve' what the 
 bountiful hand of nature has beftowed upon 
 them. 
 
 The King of this country governs with unli- 
 mited power : lie is fiyled Sohaazvoia (the elected 
 by the gods) ; the office is hereditary, and in failure 
 
 of male iffue, evert femaks inherit it. .When a fe- 
 male 
 
 '*
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. Ibl 
 
 male fucceeds to the throne, me is allowed to 
 choofe one of her fubjecls for a hufband, who go- 
 verns conjointly with her. The elders or chief 
 men of the land, however, previoufly examine 
 whether he is properly qualified. The King of 
 this country is at the fame time high-prieft and 
 augur, and likewife chief inftru&or of youth. 
 His decifions are refpecled and obeyed, even when 
 he decides unjuftly. He alone enjoys the privilege 
 of having more than one wife ; and appoints the 
 fubordinate judges and priefts, &c, He never 
 takes the field in perfon, but commits the com- 
 mand of his troops to another. The foldiers are 
 brave, and particularly expert in the ufe of the 
 bow : I was told, that the King could raife an army 
 of thirty thoufand men. In the whole kingdom 
 there are only three large towns, of which Seen- 
 hofa, the refidence of the King, and diftant two 
 days journey from that part of the borders where 
 I entered the country, contains the greateft num- 
 ber of inhabitants, The King appoints in every 
 town and village a chief, who is called the Moh- 
 woia, and who at the fame time executes the office 
 of prieft : but the Mohwoia cannot decide by his 
 own authority, but muft make a report to the 
 King on all matters of importance. With refpect 
 to their religious rites, this nation has fome things 
 in common with the Mahometans, as, for inftance, 
 
 K 3 circum-
 
 l8 TRAVELS IN TH 
 
 circumcifion,with certain concomitant ceremonies. 
 Their meetings for the performance of religious 
 worfhip are held in the morning in the open air, at 
 a place which the prieft choofes. Their form of 
 worfhip is very fimple : the congregation forms a 
 ring, and the prieft, ftanding in the centre, ad- 
 drelfes a difcourfe to them. Matiimonial con- 
 tracts are concluded here, as among the Southern 
 Caf!*res, without any religious ceremonies. The 
 men love and efteem their wives, and therefore 
 do not overwhelm them with exceffive drudgery, 
 but take upon themfelves many of thofe laborious 
 employments, which among others of the African 
 tribes are afligned to the women. Till about their 
 fourth year, the children are wholly under the 
 care of their parents ; but after that period, the boys 
 are inftructed by the Mohwoia, and the girls by 
 his wife. 
 
 Their drefs confifts of aprons, which reach down 
 to the knee. Thefe aprons are made of palm 
 leaves. The men twift their hair round pieces of 
 bone, generally the ribs of fheep ; and I have feen 
 fpine who hud fix or eight fuch ornaments on their 
 heads. The women tie their hair with flips of lea- 
 ther, and many of them have nolefs than fix of thefe 
 
 hanging over the face. They have only one prin- 
 cipal
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 1 83 
 
 cipal meal in a day, namely, after fun-fet ; at other 
 times of the day they occafionally eat fome millet 
 and corn with four milk. From their extreme in- 
 dolence, thefe people are often in want of provi- 
 fions ; for 'they will rather endure hunger for a 
 few days than ufe any extraordinary exertion to 
 procure food. Salt is feldom to be met with in 
 this country : they procure it from Mazumbo, in 
 exchange for fkins ; but fometimes are for years 
 without a requiiite fupply, when they happen to 
 be at war with the inhabitants of that kino-dom. 
 
 o 
 
 When no other can be obtained, fome of them ufe 
 a bad kind of fait, obtained by burning the bones 
 of animals, 
 
 When I arrived at the firft village in the Mata- 
 man territory, I was immediately taken to the hut 
 of the Mohwoia, from whom I received fome milk 
 and a handful of barley. When I had eaten this, 
 the man, who had conducted me to the village, 
 likewife brought me fome milk and barley : this 
 difpleafed the Mohwoia, and a violent difpute 
 arofe between them, which however was not at- 
 tended with any bad confequences. The Moh- 
 woia contended, that he alone had the riant to 
 entertain me, becaufe he was the chief ; the other, 
 on the contrary, afferted that he was entitled to 
 
 N 4 that
 
 184 TRAVELS -IN THE 
 
 that privilege, as he had brought me with him to 
 the village *.' 
 1 
 
 On the following day I fet out for Secnhofo, 
 with the intention to pay my refpe&s to the King; 
 the Mohwoia ordered fome of the men of t,he vil- 
 lage to put me into the right road, and gave me a 
 calabalh of water and a handful of meal to take with 
 me. Till towards noon I had to march over fteep 
 mountains, and found moll beautiful meadows in 
 the interjacent valleys. I pafied the village Yeau- 
 hon, and arrived about mid-day at the village Ka- 
 foho, cctfilifung of about forty neat well-built huts. 
 I repaired to the Mohwpia's, and was fupplied with 
 fome meal and water. The road now led through 
 a very fruitful valley, in which, beftdcs other trees, 
 I met with a number of trees bearing a fort of 
 apples. I ate fome of the fruit, and refolved to 
 pafs the night under one of the trees : but a herd 
 of buffaloes paying me an unwelcome vifit, I was 
 obliged to take refuge among the branches. At 
 break of day the buffaloes left me at liberty to 
 purfue my journey, and I foon afterwards arrived 
 
 
 
 _. 1 ; , a. , 
 
 * I fbund in the fcqucl, that the Mohwoia was in the r'^ht ; 
 as, according to the laws of the country, he muft receive and 
 entertain 'ftrangcrs; and i allowed to take corn for their uie 
 out of the corn magazine, of, which he h&s the faperiattadancc. 
 
 at
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 1^5 
 
 at a village called Okohama, where however I did 
 not ftop, but proceeded with all poflible fpeed to- 
 ward Seenhofa, As I approached nearer that ca- 
 pital, I palied through feveral fruitful vallies a 
 abounding with fruit trees ; and at length came to 
 an aqueduct, which conducted water to the town 
 from a diftance of half a German mile. On the 
 fide of this aqueduct I now proceeded, and reached 
 the town before fun-fet. I immediately went to 
 the Mohwoia's, who gave me fome barley and four 
 milk, and then conducted me to a hut adjoining 
 his own, where I ilept without being difturbed, the 
 Mohwoia having carefully faftened the door. 
 
 My wiih to fee the King was foon gratified : for 
 early in the morning the Mohwoia came into my 
 hut, and winked me to follow him. He conducted 
 me through a long ftreet, with huts on both fides, 
 to agrafs-plot, where a number of men formed a 
 circle, in the centre of which I faw the Sohaawoia 
 (or King), He appeared to be about forty years 
 of age,- was feated upon a round block of wood, 
 and held his battle-axe in his hand. I had on the 
 preceding day taken out four guilders from be- 
 tween the lining of my waiftcoat for the purpofe 
 of preferring them to the King ; and with thefe 
 in my hand I entered the ring. His Majefty en- 
 Quired of me (through the medium of one of the 
 
 by-
 
 186 TRAVPfiS X#m& 
 
 by-ftanders, who feemed to have utftiei'S&kcn the 
 office of interpreter), whence I had come, -'whither 
 I was going, and why I vifited his dominions. I 
 had much difficulty to underftand thefe (queftions : 
 but the interpreter was ftill more puzzled to com- 
 prehend my aniwers ; for he had but a very (light 
 knowledge of the Caffrarian language. Having 
 explained to the King what I had anfwered, he was 
 ordered to alk me whether I were a Moor or a 
 Chriftian. I anfwered that I was an Arab ; for I 
 fuppofed that they were not acquainted with that 
 name. I now prefented the four guilders to the 
 King, and requefted him to grant me a fupply of 
 the neceffaries of life. He viewed the money for 
 ibme time, and then ordered one of his "wives to 
 fetch ibme meal and milk. She Immediately 
 obeyed ; and I (at down on the ground to eat the 
 mixture which fhe prepared for me. I then ac- 
 companied his Majefty to his hut, where a mat was 
 given me to lit on. He now examined me with 
 greater attention, and bade the interpreter tell me 
 that, if I gave him more pieces of money, he would 
 retain me here and appoint me a Kayfeeto, i.e. a 
 iervant. I protetled that I had not a fingle piece 
 of money left ; but his offer I accepted with plea- 
 sure, hoping thereby to acquire an accurate know- 
 ledge of the language, laws, and cuftomsofthe 
 country. But in the courfe of a lew days, I found 
 
 that
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 187 
 
 that they confidered me as no better thnn a com- 
 mon Have, and that I was in danger of being, 
 fopner or later, bartered or ibid to fome other na- 
 tion *. I was plentifully fupplied with provilions j 
 but I was not futisfied with the behaviour of the 
 King towards me in other refpects. The royal 
 houfehold confuted only of his wife and children , 
 and of a few fervants, all of whom lodged in fe- 
 parate huts. The King being very jealous, I was 
 not allowed to go near the women, but ufually at- 
 tended him in his own hut, or when he went to 
 the chace. The latter part of my employment was 
 ibmelimes very laborious, for I was obliged to 
 carry home the game which we killed. But, for- 
 tunately for me, the King never went a hunting 
 except when his ftock of provilions happened to 
 be exhaufted ; for, whilft a fufficiency remained, 
 his Majefly, as well as the greater part of his fub- 
 
 * When the Europeans discovered the coafts of Africa, they 
 perhaps learned the fiave-trade from the natives ; for among all 
 the African nations which I viiited, the Southern CafFres ex- 
 cepted, the practice of feiling human beings exifts ; and in the 
 courfe of a few years the fiaves often pafs through the hands of 
 feveral nations ; as, for inftance, the Matamanians barter them 
 away for fait to the Muzumbonians, and the Muzumbcnians 
 for grain to the inhabitants of Congo ; and thus they are trans- 
 ferred from one matter to the other, till at length they come into 
 the poffeffion of the Europeans. 
 
 jects,
 
 tS8 Ivffts in thjt 
 
 lecTs^ gave himfelf up to indolence and fleep ; which 
 was likewife difagreeable to me, tor whilft he flept 
 I was obliged to remain quite ftill in the hut. 
 My daily fare confided of about a pound of meal 
 or corn, and a quart of four milk; but when I 
 was allowed flem meat, my ufual portion of meal 
 was not given me. The King was a man of mid- 
 dling ftature and good appearance ; he had fix 
 wives and fourteen children. His fon refided in 
 the eaftern divifion of the town, being appointed 
 Mohwoia there. The King one day took me with 
 him to the habitation of this fon, and ihewed me 
 to his two' children, girls of the age of feven and 
 nine. The girls began to fkip round me, and ex* 
 claimed, Tono Koh! i.e. a beautiful "White! But 
 their mother having exprefTed the fame favourable 
 opinion of me, the Mohwoia became jealous, and 
 fpokc for a confiderable time to his father con- 
 cerning me. The others having left the hut, the 
 eldeft daughter endeavoured to explain to me what 
 had been determined upon during this converfa- 
 tion j which was to this eflect, that as they feared 
 left I fhould attempt to feduce the wives of the 
 King and his fon, they purpofed to fell me to 
 anot her nation. In confcquencc qf this intelligence, 
 I refolvcd to make my efcape, if I mould be refilled 
 penniiTion id depart. 
 
 On
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. iSgf 
 
 On the following day I requefted the king to 
 permit me to continue my journey to my own 
 cquntry, but >hc told me that I muft wait here a 
 few days longer, and then might travel in company 
 with fome of his fubjects, who intended to carry 
 fome commodities to barter with a neighbouring 
 nation. I well knew that I myfelf was one of the 
 commodities which they meant to barter away, 
 and therefore eagerly looked for an opportunity to 
 make my efcape ; and a favourable one occurred 
 on the 29th of November. On that day I attended 
 my matter to the chace, carrying a calabafh full of 
 water, feme millet in a leathern bag, and a fpear j* 
 but was ordered not to quit him fo often, nor go 
 to fuch a diftance from him as I had been accuf- 
 tomed to do, but to be at hand, ready to affift him 
 with the fpear, in cafe of danger. We proceeded 
 towards a beautiful wood, fituated to the weft of 
 the town. As foon as we had entered this wood, 
 I pretended that I had been feized with a violent 
 pain in my bowels, and fat down on the ground. 
 
 * The head of this fpear was two inches in breadth, a foot 
 long, and an inch thick, and faftened with thongs to a pole. 
 Hunters general]'/ carry fucli fpears,to defend themfelves in cafe 
 they "ihould be attacked by "wild beafts, efpecially fuch as haVc 
 been rendered more ferocious by wounds. They are likewife 
 vied in war; and then the points of them are poifened, 
 
 Mr
 
 J90 TRAVELS IK TH 
 
 My mafter believing me to be really ill, gave me 
 leave to remain there till he mould call me, took 
 his fpear and went on. The moment I had left 
 light of him I fprang up and turned to the north, 
 endeavouring to reach ibme mountains in that di- 
 rection. Though the heat was exceflive, and 1 
 was extremely tormented by thirft, I exerted all 
 my ftrength, and ran as faft as I poflibly could, not 
 even {topping to take a draught of water from the 
 calabafh. In three hours I reached the banks of 
 a river, called, as I afterwards learned, the Cayelbo y 
 i. e. " Sweet River." Fortunately for me this 
 river was not deep, and I could ford it without 
 danger ; but in my hurry I {truck my foot with 
 iiich violence againfl a {harp {tone in the water, 
 that I fell down, and mould certainly have been 
 drowned, had the current of the river been more 
 rapid. Fortunately, however, I was able to get up 
 again, and reached the oppofite bank in fafety. I 
 immediately continued my flight, and altho' I faw 
 villages to the right and the left of me, I carefully 
 avoided them, and luckily none of the inhabitants 
 law mc. Towards evening I reached a wood, where 
 I was forced to ft op, the wound in mv foot having 
 become executively painful. I flept little, and in 
 the morning was fcarcely able to put my foot to 
 the ground ; therefore, as I had fome millet left, I 
 relolvedto remain where I wa,s, and applied fome 
 
 green
 
 INTERIOR C1P AFRICA. 191 
 
 green leaves to the wound, which fomewhat alle- 
 viated the pain. 
 
 On the firft of December I limped flowly on, 
 and at noon reached the town called Drofah. This 
 town has four ftreets, and confifts of about two 
 hundred and fifty huts, lying in the form of a half- 
 moon. There is a great deal of good pafture*- 
 ground in the neighbourhood. I enquired for the 
 JYIohwoia, and was immediately conducted to him ; 
 lie behaved in a very friendly manner, towards 
 me, especially after I had made him a prefent of 
 three guilders ; but when he obferved the hurt in 
 my foot, he refufed me admihlori into his hut, 
 from an appreheniion that he might catch a fimilar 
 hurt. No one would now receive me : at laft, 
 however, an old man, who, probably, was free 
 from this ridiculous prejudice, took pity on me, 
 and led me to his hut, where he gave me fome 
 milk ; after which he fetched fome green leaves, 
 bruited them with a ftone, and applied them to 
 my foot. On the following morning the pain had 
 abated, and therefore as I was afraid of being pur- 
 fued, 1 took leavecf the hofpitable old man, giving 
 him a guilder in return for the kindnefs he had 
 fhewn me. I proceeded in a north-eafterly direc- 
 tion, and about noon arrived at a village called 
 Akilah, but flopped there only a few hours, as the' 
 
 inhabitants
 
 V$i TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 
 
 inhabitants feemed inclined to detain and make a 
 fiave of me ; but perhaps my ragged drefs, the 
 hurt in my foot, and my long beard, deterred 
 them. Having obtained a little milk from one of 
 them, I continued my journey. About an hour's 
 walk from the village, at a narrow pafs between 
 the mountains, three ftout men ran towards me, 
 and put feveral mieftions to me, moft of wliich I 
 underftood, namely, whence I came, whither I 
 was going, and to what country 1 belonged ? I 
 anfwered, that I was a native of the weft, and was 
 travelling towards my own country : but that did 
 net hinder them from putting many other quef- 
 tions to me ; and, as I did not underftand their 
 queries, and therefore could return no anfwer, two 
 of them laid hold of me by the arms, whilft the 
 third took my calabafh, and led me to a place 
 where they had killed a young wolf, which they 
 ordered me to take upon my fhouldcrs and carry 
 after them. I hefitated, and fliewed them the hurt 
 in my foot, but in vain, for one of them gave 
 me fome blows with a fpear, and threatened to 
 run mc through if I would not carry the carcafe 
 of the wolf. I took it upon my back and followed 
 them, but flowly ; they therefore pufhed me on 
 by repeated blows. The great heat, fatigue and 
 pain, b overpowered me, that I feveral times funk 
 under my load. I implored them to have pity on 
 
 me ;
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 1 93 
 
 me ; but their hearts being Heeled againft all my 
 entreaties, they beat me" fill I again got up. At 
 laft I arrived, half dead with pain and fatigue, at 
 the village which I had left a few hours before. 
 When I had deported iny load, my cruel tor- 
 mentor^ bid me be gone. Not being able to walk, 
 Tfat down by the fide' of their hut to reft myfelf ; 
 but even this indulgence was denied me. I there- 
 fore crawled along as well as I could, till I came to 
 the hut where I had received fome -milk at noon. 
 The owner of it happened to be looking out at the 
 door, and I begged of him to take pity on me. 
 He afked me, what hindered me from .walking ; 
 and when I mewed him the hurt in my foot, he 
 exprefTed his willingnefs to affift me. Perceiving 
 that my whole body was Covered with blood, part 
 of which, however, had .flowed down my waift- 
 coat, from the carcafe of the wolf, he became ftUl 
 kinder, and even exprefTed by his geftures how 
 much he was incenfed againft thofe who had treated 
 me with foch cruelty. He fpread out a -meep-ikin 
 before the hut, and bade me lit dowrren k ; he 
 then looked at my foot, and immediately "fpoke 
 to a jnrl, who foon returned with fevefal kinds of 
 leaves, which he carefully examined, and then 
 applied to my foot. I then received force meal 
 and milk, and was in every refpec~t treated as- if I 
 had been a native of the country. A couch was 
 
 O prepared
 
 194 TRAVELS WTffi 
 
 prepared for me in the hut, and fome fkins w 
 given me to cover rnyfelf. At firft I was not able 
 to fleep, partly on account of the pain which I fuf- 
 fered, and partly through fnfnicion, as I did not 
 yet altogether trul >ny hoft. But my fufpicions of 
 his integrity were quite erroneous ; for he was a 
 truly benevolent philanthropic, as his fubfequent 
 behaviour clearly proved. At dawn of day he 
 arofe and afked, whether the pain had abated ? 
 On my anfwering in the negative, he feemed fur- 
 prized, becaufe he hadfuppofed the leave's would 
 operate ftronger. He now bid me come before 
 the hut. I crawled out ; he looked at the fore, 
 and was much terrified at the fight, as it was 
 worfc. He fent, however, without herniation, for 
 another kind of leaves, refcmbling thofe of our 
 willows, bruifed them on a ftone, and made them 
 up with greafe into falve, with which he rubbed 
 my leg with fo much violence, that I had nearly 
 loft my fenfes ; he then tied a thong or frrap around 
 the fwollen part and bade me lay down. I did fo, 
 and the pain growing lefs violent, I fell afleep. 
 When I awoke in the evening, I found that my 
 foot had been wrapped up in palm-leaves, and that 
 the pain had abated very much. Full eight days 
 elapfed, however, before I could put my foot to 
 the ground. During this time a man came into 
 the hut , whom my i hoft acquainted with the 
 
 circumftances
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 195 
 
 circumftances of my cafe, and in particular with 
 the ill-treatment I had experienced from fome of 
 the inhabitants, at which he expreffed great indig- 
 nation. When he had left the hut, I learned that 
 he was the Mohwoia, fon-in-law of my benefac- 
 tor, and that he promifed to punifh thefe cruel 
 wretches. On the tenth day I intended to de- 
 part, but my benefactor's wife having been deli- 
 vered of a boy, I was obliged to ftay till the next 
 day, to affift at a feftival, celebrated on that occa- 
 lion. On my departure I was prefented with fome 
 provifion for my journey. Having pafTed through 
 three villages, I reached, in the evening, the boun- 
 daries of the Seegerines, where I ftaid the night 
 in the village of Mukofah, feated on a hill. 
 
 O 4 CHAP,
 
 ig6 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Hi /Tory if the Seegerines National Character of tltat 
 People The Author drrives in the f.rji ViUage^f 
 the Seegerines , called Mukofah On the Slave 
 Trade Account of a Tyger Hunt Profecution of 
 the Journey The Author is carried ', as a Prifoner, 
 into the Province of Porguhomat (called in the 
 Map Oftla) but well treated Hijlory and Descrip- 
 tion of that Nation The Author is ordered, in Com- 
 pany ivith other Men, to march to the Frontiers, to 
 attack an hoflile Trader in Slaves, ivith a large 
 Tranfport of Negroes, but being taken Prifoner y 
 and labouring under great Troubles and Difficulties, 
 is conducledtothe Sovians Defcription of tins Na- 
 tion, which bears a clofe Refemb lance to the Inha- 
 bitants of Angola Difference in point of Language 
 The Author is made a Cowherd in the Service of 
 the Mani The fourth Wife of the Mani entertains 
 an illicit- PaJJion for him He efcapes from her by 
 Flight to Angola Account of that Kingdom, its 
 Hiflory, Boundaries, and Produce On the King, 
 the Political Conflitut'ion, Religion, Manners, Cuf- 
 toms, and National Drcfs The Author is robbed 
 by an Evanga (Judge) of his Money and Journal, 
 and is in the mo/l imminent Danger oflofwg his Life* 
 
 but
 
 INTERIOR Of AFRICA. 197 
 
 but is liberated through the Kings jft/Jftce, and 
 
 Humanity Defcription of the Town of Mahakah y 
 the Refidcnce of the King on the River Coanza, 
 
 THE Seegerines are a poor and lazy people, 
 who live almoft entirely by hunting. They 
 were formerly a powerful nation, and poffefTed a 
 vail empire; but in confequence of the numerous 
 wars in which they were encraffed with their 
 neighbours, they loft by far the greateft part p 
 their pofleflions. Their territory is at prefent 
 about two days journey in length, and half a day's 
 journey in breath ; the population of the country 
 exceeds not eight thoufand inhabitants, and they 
 live in miferable huts, each compofed of four 
 poles or (takes, and covered with reed grafs. The 
 villages in general conhTt of ten or twelve huts. 
 The colour of the Seegerines is of a reddrfh cafe, 
 iomewhat tinctured wi*h brown. They are fmall 
 in flzi, and wear no other drefs than a fmall 
 apron: their hair is fhort and curled, and they 
 have flat nofes. They enjoy the reputation of 
 being good markfmen, and bear an excellent cha- 
 racter for hofpitality, but are juftly cenfured 
 for the vicious habit, which is fanclloned by their 
 laws, of robbing well dreffed ftr angers of their 
 cloaths. This nation has no king, but is governed 
 by a chief, called Koojamah. They procure their 
 
 O 3 fait
 
 I98, "TRAVELS m THL 
 
 fait from a mountain, fituated to the weftward, 
 and exchange part of it for the produce of neigh- 
 bouring diirrlcts: The prifonen. whom they take, 
 efpetially 1 from the Malamans, with whom they 
 are frequently at war, are exchanged for other 
 commodities, and fall at laft into the hands of 
 the Have merchants on the coaft. of Congo. 
 
 I {hall here fay a few words on the Have-trade. 
 The dealers in flaves arc Moors, who make in^ 
 curiions as far as the defert of Sahara, fteal children 
 and young perfons in the interior of Africa, and 
 give them to the chiefs of towns in exchange for 
 cattle, guns, gunpowder, and lead. The chiefs 
 colle& thefc unfortunate people, and fell them in 
 couples, of from twenty to fixty head, to the 
 Portuguese, French, and Engliih, on the coaft, on 
 their way to which, they are frequently obliged 
 to travel on foot ten, or perhaps twenty days, and 
 are uled worfb than cattle. Had not the inha* 
 bitaiits of the^e . ountries got acquainted with 
 Europeans and their wares, the Have-trade could 
 never have taken place. The friends of mankind 
 are juitly fitted with horror at the barbar 
 treatment -which the unfortunate iiaves experience 
 
 m theic Chriftian canrtiba&s. In how many 
 countries- has the rc-i^ion of Chriit been fliame- 
 fully mifuiedj for the purjSoic of oppreifion; and,
 
 INTERIOR Of AFRICA. I99 
 
 "by aligning free-born men to a ftation as it were 
 between men and brutes, been made the abomi- 
 nable inilrument of acquiring power, and amailing 
 wealth. We are not therefore to wonder, that in 
 countries where, tor thi^ very purpofe 3 ,the religion 
 of Chriit was forced upon the inhabitants with 
 lire and fword, could gain no ground, and that 
 the name of a Ciiriflian became the watch-word 
 of .persecution. 
 
 But to return to my journey. On my arrival 
 in the village of the Seegerines, they allembled 
 around me, and conducted me to the chief. By 
 him I was refreshed with water, mixed with the 
 juice of . plums, and bade to fit down. Unac- 
 quainted with their language, I endeavoured to 
 exprefs by iigns from whence I came, and whither 
 i was going. On my pointing to the region, to- 
 wards which I intended to travel, they made a 
 variety of gehures, from which I had reafon to 
 infer, that they wiihed to dhTuade me from pro- 
 ceeding thither. 
 
 rhe next day I collected what information I was 
 able to obtain as to the neighbouring country, and 
 in the afternoon went on a hunting- partv, in com- 
 pany with four men of the village. The iirftgame 
 
 O 4 they
 
 20 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 they faw was a tyger, which they refolved imme- 
 diately to purfue, laughing at the fear which I ex. 
 prefied on this occalion. They actually fucceeded 
 in killing the tyger j without receiving the leaft in- 
 jury themfelves. While two men were throwing 
 javelins at him, the next ftood by them, holding 
 in their right hand a fpear, and in the left a piece 
 of buffalo or elephant's hide, that they might be 
 able to defend themfelves, in cafe that the tyger 
 fhould not be mortally wounded and attack them. 
 This was here really the cafe ; he tried to feize the 
 foremoft by the throat, but this man, undifmayed 
 by the rage of the ferocious animal, thruft his hand, 
 wrapped up in leather, into his throat, and thus 
 prevented him from biting : he at the fame time 
 pierced him with the fpear he held in his right 
 hand, and the tyger was foon killed by the other 
 three. 
 
 On the 1 5th of December I purfued my journey 
 through a valley, where I found a fpring of water, 
 of a yellowiili colour and acrid taftc.* I pafied by 
 three villages, but ftopped in the fourth, called 
 
 * Probably vitriolatcd water, impregnated with ferruginous 
 particles, 
 
 AimahtOj
 
 INTERIOR IGF AFRICA. 20T 
 
 Aimahto, where I refted an hour under a finerna- 
 tahora-trce,* and was cloieiy viewed by the inha- 
 bitants. One of them preieiiUd me with " piece 
 of wolf's fiefli, which I loathed at firft, but having 
 tried it ot laft, from want of other food, I irraft 
 confefs that it tailed better than buffalo flefh. 
 Six miles from this village I met, in the profecu- 
 tion of my journey, in a fmall wood, with an im- 
 menfe number of turtles, winch tempted my appe- 
 tite. I refolved accordingly to ftop there for the 
 night, kindled a fire, and prepared an excellent 
 fupper of a roafted turtle ; but ate fo much that I 
 did not lleep till towards morning. I had fcarcely 
 refted an hour, when feeling fomething move at 
 my feet, I ftarted, and faw a fnake, three ells in 
 length, and a foot thick,! which devoured the re- 
 remains of my meat. Struck with terror and dif- 
 may, I fprung up and ran to a coniiderable dis- 
 tance. When I recovered the ufe of my fenfes, I 
 miffed my calabafh, and was of courfe obliged to 
 
 * The leaves are narrow yet long, the branches bent down- 
 wards, and the bloflbms of a red call. The fruit is of the fize 
 of a large pea, round, and yields flour of a fine flavour; of 
 this they make cakes, which are not inferior in tafte to our 
 heft bifcuits. 
 
 * This fpecics of fnake? , whofe thicknefs hears no propor- 
 tion to their length, is, I believe, unknown to naturaliits. 
 
 return :
 
 *02 TRAVELS 'IN THE 
 
 return : I found it at the place where I had flept, 
 but the make had difappeared. On quilting the 
 wood, I entered a fine plain, in which the village 
 of Ogtih is fituated, confifting of about thirty hut.;. 
 Unwilling to ftop in tiiis village, I was walking 
 ftr.aight through it, without afking, for proviiion ; 
 but one of the inhabitants gave me a tortoiie- 
 Ihell with water and the juice of plums, which I 
 emptied, and went on without being in the leaft de- 
 tained. 1 then came again to a fmall dale, wafhed 
 by a fmalj river, whofe water was not drinkable ; 
 yet it fupplied me with feme fine mufcles, of which 
 I. made a comfortable meal, and reached in the 
 evening a chain of rocky mountains, which formed 
 tlie boundary of the country, and where I palled 
 the night. 
 
 I^arly in the morning I heard the found of hu- 
 man voices, and foon faw about twenty armed 
 men, who efcorted a troop of priibners, coupled 
 together two and two. One of the former -feized 
 and conducted me to the commander of the ef- 
 cort, who, after {bine confideration, tied my hands 
 with a ftrap, and bid me follow him. Untii in 
 our road lav over mountains ; the armed men were 
 rough and noify, bu ! >ners appeared mourn- 
 
 ful and dejected. At noon -we reached the large 
 village of iiuojaha, where we halted and received 
 
 water.
 
 lNTitMOR OF AFRICA. 2>3 
 
 water. This was t he firft village in the province of 
 Porguhoma, called Oilla in the maps. Our guard 
 belonged to this nation, and lived ibiue miles far- 
 ther northwards. The province of Porguhoinat 
 is about a four days journey diftant from the fron- 
 tiers of Congo ; it podeiles a fruitful foil, and fup- 
 piies the inhabitants with a variety of productions 
 in great abundance. They are a warlike nation, 
 and defend their poflerTion with great fpirit. Some 
 told me that the nation was able to fend from 
 eighteen to twenty thoufand men into the field; 
 but this, I think, is a palpable exaggeration, for the 
 country is but thinly peopled. In former times 
 this country was iubjeclcd to the kings of Bcngula, 
 who drew from it their belt and molt valiant fol- 
 diers, but frequently requited their fervice with 
 ingratitude and wanton cruelty 
 
 King ivhiguan having rendered himfelf guilty of 
 a fimilar conduct., the nation railed, in the year 
 1776, the ftandard of revolt, put the King to death, 
 and rendered itfelf nearly independent. Althousdi 
 the ion of the murdered King was placed on the 
 throne, yet he is bound to act with and by the ad- 
 vice of the ciders, who form his privy council. 
 This nation has many cuftoms in common with 
 the neighbouring tribes ; but fome are alio found 
 acre, which are peculiar to their country. 
 
 From
 
 234 TRAVELS IN - THE 
 
 From the fmall number of women, the men 
 have frequently but one wife, yet never quarrel 
 about the right of enjoying their joint property. 
 The women are refpected, and lefs rudely treated, 
 than in other parts of Africa. The men apply 
 themfelves alfo to the management of houfehold 
 affairs, take care of the catde, and tranfact other 
 domeftic bufinefs while the women drefs the vic- 
 tuals, clean matahora, or convert it into flour and 
 grits. 
 
 In point of language and drefs, this nation per- 
 fectly agrees with the inhabitants of the coaft of 
 Congo. Boys are circumcifed the day after their 
 birth, and held in higher eftimation than girls. I 
 have feen mothers furrounded by twelve, nay, 
 eighteen male children, and refpected by them* 
 Upon the whole, I am much pleafcd with the 
 mode of education which prevails in this pro- 
 vince. A child, as foon as it can talk, enjoys the 
 inftruction of its grandfather, or, if he mould be 
 dead, of its father, who acquaints it with fuch 
 plants and fruit as are fit for food, and points 
 out thofe which are noxious and pernicious to 
 health. It is alfa taught to weave mats of reed- 
 grafs ; and, as it grows older, to affift in a variel y 
 of houfehold-work ; the boys, in particular, are 
 made to apply thcinfelvcs to hunting, and thereby 
 
 acquire
 
 INTERIOR OF' AFRICA. 2,0$: 
 
 acquire agility and courage. He who kills an ele* 
 phant is no longer claiTed among boys but men. 
 
 Though all ftrangers, not engaged in any branch 
 of traflick with the nation, are confidered as Haves, 
 yet they are treated with great kindnefs, and not 
 ibid ; for they dcteft the Have-trade, and make it 
 their bufinels by main force to wrcft from other 
 nations fuch Haves as are deilined for fale. Priibners 
 of war experience alfo a kind treatment, and if 
 they wifh it, arc incorporated with the nation. 
 
 I was at length carried into the village of Sol- 
 taho, the place of reiidence of the nominal King, 
 and delivered to that petty fovereign with many 
 ceremonies. He received me kindly, and ordered 
 my hands to be untied, to be regaled with apiece 
 of elephant lleih roafted, and conducted me into 
 a fmall hut. The reft of the prifoners were alfo 
 diftributed, and met all of them with a kind re-< 
 ception. 
 
 Unacquainl ed with the language of the coun- 
 try, I was not able to learn what would be my 
 future fate, yet felt no uneaimefs on this point, 
 as I enjoyed a preference to the reft of the pri- 
 ibners. While the latter were obliged to work. 
 
 o 
 
 in the held, to cut wood and the like, I was em-: 
 
 ployed
 
 206 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 ployed in fetching, cleaning, drying and bruifing 
 mutahora. 
 
 After having been a month in this village, I 
 obferved that they began to treat me with more 
 coolnefs. As far as I could difcover the caufc of 
 this change, it confrfced in the fuppoiltion, that 
 I was a mambutaja (Portugueze) ; yet I continued 
 to enjoy liberty and advantages in preference to 
 the reft of the prifoners ; nay, they affured me, 
 that I fhould conftantly be better treated thart 
 their countrymen were ufed by the Portugueze. 
 
 I endeavoured as much as pofiible to convince 
 the Buliha (King) that I was no Portugueze, but 
 an achkahrey (a native of the eaft country), and 
 that my nation was at war with the Portugueze. 
 My endeavours proved fuccefsful ; I obtained per- 
 mifiton to ileep in the King's own hut, and was 
 prefented with a fine fheep-lkin. 
 
 By way of amufement, I made a potter's difh 
 for the women, who ufed to form their earthen- 
 ware in their hands, in a manner as troublefome 
 as it was aukward ; I alfo confiructed a fmall 
 oven, and fliewed them that meat was roaftcd 
 there mucli better in pans than over coals. On 
 account of thefe and other things, I was much 
 
 refpected
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 1&] 
 
 refpe<5fced by the nation, but was neverthelefs fre- 
 quently obliged to go to reft very hungry, becaufe 
 the people live here in a very frugal manner, and 
 conlume but little food. 
 
 Having lived here feveral months, I at Iaft fell 
 
 into the hands of another people, the Sovians,* 
 through a peculiar* accident', which I ftiall relate 
 in a few words. 
 
 On the 7th of June 1785. two (laves arrived in 
 the village where I redded, who had efcaped from 
 a troop of Haves, efcorted by a ftrong body of So- 
 vians on their way to Bengula. Thefe flaves de- 
 pofed that, on the 1 9th, the above troops, confin- 
 ing of thirty flaves, would pais clofe by the fron- 
 tiers of Porguhomat, in confequence of which ad- 
 vice, preparations were immediately made in the 
 village, to difperle the efcort or take them prifon- 
 ers along with the troop of flaves. I learned at 
 the fame time, that although the countrv of An- 
 goh was about an eight days journey diftant from 
 theii province, yet . they were here conftantly 
 ready to injure them as well as the Sovians, and 
 to deftroy their flave -trade. I had formerly been 
 
 * Inhabitants of the kingdom Sova, fubjected to the King 
 of Angola. 
 
 prefent
 
 268 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 prefent at feveral tncuriions, made for the mere 
 purpofe of defending or protecting the frontiers, 
 but this time I was called upon to aflift in fur- 
 prifing the enemy. 
 
 We put ourfelves in motion on the 17th in 
 the evening, forty-feven in number, half of 
 whom were armed with javelins and hunting- 
 fpears, and the reft with battle-axes. Wc march- 
 ed the whole night over mountains and through 
 forefts, taking our route towards the north- 
 eaft, and halted the next morning a few hours on 
 a mountain, from whence we proceeded to a vil- 
 lage which lay on the declivity thereof, and 
 was called Wakulaho, and belonged to our nation. 
 Being joined here by twenty men we purfued our 
 march, crofTed in the evening a fmall river, march- 
 ed again the whole night, and faw at break of day 
 a village lying before us. We refolved to fearch 
 this village, and to collect information relative to 
 the time when the troop of flaves was expected. 
 Two other combatants who had fore feet, and 
 myfelf, were ordered to remain in our refting 
 place until the reft fhould return from the village. 
 
 Much pleafed with this order of our commander, 
 whofe name was Kydomoh, we lay down behind a 
 rock and awaited the return of our troop, which 
 
 was
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 269 
 
 Wis expected in the evening; but nobody came. 
 Having waited the whole night in turn, we pro- 
 ceeded the next morning to the village, without 
 either finding our troop, or obtaining the leaft in- 
 telligence whither they had directed their march. 
 Having proceeded a little way farther on we found 
 two roads, both marked with frefti footfteps. 
 Uncertain which road we ought to purfue, agreed 
 at laft to feparate into two parties, one of us turned 
 to the north-eaft, while I and another of my com- 
 panions took the route towards the eaft. 
 
 We had not proceeded far, when we loft all trace 
 of the road ; at Lift, however, we reached the vil- 
 lage through which the party muft pafs, and 
 found there that which had a few hours before 
 taken another road. We requefted an old man to 
 give us a night's lodging : he immediately granted 
 our requeft. A little after midnight we heard a 
 great noife in the village, and believing that our 
 friends were coming back, we haitened out of the 
 hut to fhew ourfelves to them, but we were 
 grievoufly miftaken ; for it was the enemy, who, 
 having received intelligence of the intended attack 
 upon them. had taken a different route,and arrived 
 here without any oppolition. They carried oif 
 with* them, befides us, fome young women belong- 
 
 P ing
 
 210 TRAVELS IN TH1 
 
 ing to the village ; and continued their march all 
 the following day through woods and over moun- 
 tains. In the evening we arrived at a village called 
 Brhtyho, which lies in the territory of the Sovians. 
 The captives were all conducted to the Mani, 
 (Judge), who ordered us fome four milk and 
 medabahat, (a kind of pear) for fupper. The place 
 where we lodged all night was very inconvenient, 
 as about fixty perfons were obliged to lie in one 
 hut ; and confequently none of us were able to 
 fleep. 
 
 In the morning they fattened us together by 
 threes, and marched us farther. The road was 
 extremely bad, and moft of us were incapable of 
 proceeding farther, as the wounds in their feet 
 caufed them great pain. Although in the evening 
 we faw villages on both fides of the road, yet we 
 were obliged to pafs the night in the open air, as 
 they were afraid of being attacked. The villages 
 of this tract of country generally confift of from 
 fixteen to twenty wretched low lquare huts, which 
 are covered with reed-grafsi 
 
 After midnight we again decamped and marched 
 till about noon over a large fandy plain. At laft 
 we reached a imall town, where we were con- 
 dueled
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 211 
 
 dueled to a hut adjoining the Maui's : here they 
 took oft the thongs with which they had tied us to- 
 gether, and gave us fome peafe-rneal and milk. 
 Man)- of the captives had their feet fo fwelled as to 
 he unable to walk. The foles of my feet were 
 likewise covered with bliilers, and the feet and legs 
 wounded in feveral places by thirties. Every one 
 now endeavoured to cure, himfelf as well as he 
 could. Among the natives I obferved many who 
 feemed to feel companion for our fufferings. 
 
 This nation agrees in manners, cuftoms, religion, 
 drefs, and mode of life with the Angolans : in their 
 language only is there fome difference, but not of 
 any importance. Indeed the Angolans, Ofikns, 
 and Sovalans fpeak the fame language, but in the 
 Ofilan dialed : /, u, b, g, and w, are never, or at 
 leaft very rarely pronounced. The following may 
 ferve as an example. 
 
 WORDS OF THE OSILANS. 
 
 As they are 
 
 As they are 
 
 
 written. 
 
 pronounced. 
 
 
 Lngalo 
 
 Enalo 
 
 a wild boar. 
 
 Algagia 
 
 Alaia 
 
 a zebra cat. 
 
 Bongo 
 
 Pono 
 
 a baboon. 
 
 Ouvanda 
 
 Ovanda 
 
 rice. 
 
 Qghcghe 
 
 Ole 
 
 plums. 
 
 
 P2 
 
 The
 
 2 12 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 The Sovalans, on the contrary, pronounce thefe 
 words very harfhly, viz.Enggalo, Algaggia,Pongo. 
 
 On the 23d all the captives were marched to a 
 i^reen near the town, and there minutely examined 
 whether they were properly qualified to be flavesj 
 and to inch as had wounds- in their feet, a healing 
 falve was given. The Mani likewife called me, 
 viewed and examined my whole body, and alked 
 me if I were a Chriftian. I anfwered in the nega- 
 tive, and pretended to be an Oriental. After the 
 examination was finished, thirty of the captives, 
 among whom were fix women and two young 
 girls, were taken to a feparate hut; but the others, 
 and myfelf along with them, were re -conducted to 
 the hut where wc had pafled the night. 
 
 
 
 On the third day both divifions were fent off to 
 Mahpangoh , but a young handfome Matamannian 
 and myfelf, the Mani kept with him. I was ap- 
 pointed cow-herd, but the Matamannian, whom 
 they could not truft out of fight, becaufe they 
 knew him to be acquainted with the country, was 
 employed in cutting wood and making mats. A 
 hative of Bengula, who had fold himfclf'to the 
 Mitni f<rr his dally fubfiilence, was my fellow- 
 herdfmam Wc had feventy fheep and twenty - 
 fevcif goats under our care ; thefe we drove to the 
 
 pafhire-
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 2I3 
 
 paflure-grounds in the day time, but always 
 brought them back in the evening to a hut built 
 on purpofe for them j and where we likewife 
 flept. 
 
 Every morning each of us received a handful of 
 meal and a pot of milk. But tills portion was far 
 from fuftlcient to fatisfy us ; and we therefore 
 uled privately to milk the goats and ewes. The 
 Mani was of a good-natuied humane man ; but 
 his fix wives were very fevere and quarrelfome : 
 his fourth wife, in particular, whofe name was 
 Natahar, was very libidinous, and when fhe came 
 to milk the goats, watched every opportunity of 
 being alone with me ; holding out temptations to 
 me, which however I avoided as much as poflible, 
 and pretended not to underftand her wifhes. 
 
 My comrade acted differently, and complied 
 with her foiicitations as often as he defired it, 
 and did not fcruple to converfe too freely with 
 her even in my prefence. When this luftful wo- 
 man found that all her arts and flattery were loft 
 upon me, her love was converted into hatred, 
 and flie feemed to be attempting fome means of 
 putting me out of the way, as fhe feared that I 
 jliould inform her human d of her behaviour ; in 
 
 P 3 which
 
 214 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 which cafe a fevere punifhment would await 
 her. 
 
 She one day told my comrade that me had de- 
 termined to get rid of me ; and he immediately 
 informed me of it, and advifed me to be upon 
 my guard. I began to confider with myfelf that, 
 though me would not fell me, as I parted for an 
 Oriental, yet fhe might fend me to the Portu- 
 gueze, and demand a large ranfom, which 1 mult 
 have repaid by feveral years fervitude and hard 
 labour.* Nay, perhaps, the revengeful woman 
 
 * If the Portu^ucie had ranfomed me, I muft have ferved 
 feveral years as a fokiier and thus have repaid the raut'om- 
 money : and, in cafe of my refufal to conform to the Romim. 
 Church, I (hould have been expo fed to much ill-treat ment. 
 The affertion is entirely without foundation, that the Portu- 
 gucze, Dutch, and Enghfh, have frequently liberated unfortu- 
 nate Europeans from flavery, and immediately carried them to 
 Europe. Tq have the arms marked with crofTes, names, and 
 figures, and the like, is no proof that a perfon has been a Have 
 amon" the Airican nations. On board of fhip, every failor is 
 ready, for a piece of tobacco or a glafs of brandy, to prick fucn 
 figures in the arms, thighs, or legs. They perfoim this with 
 two or three pins or needles tied together; the part which they 
 intend to thus ornament being iirft tightly hound. In the Imall 
 wounds made by the needles they rub gun-powder, which gives 
 them a blue colour. At St. Helena, St. Jago, St. Clare, and
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 215 
 
 wight abfolutcly poifon me. To avoid the latter, 
 I every d;iy exchanged my own portion of pro- 
 vifion for my partner's ; but at laft determined to 
 endeavour to effect my efcape, as the beft means 
 of fecuring myfelf from her fnares and perfe- 
 ction. 
 
 As I knew I might confide in my comrade, I 
 difcovered my defign to him, and eafily obtained 
 from him a promife to ailift me in putting it in 
 execution. I endeavoured to perfuade him to ac- 
 company me ; but this he refufed, for he was too 
 lazy and faint-hearted to engage in any enter- 
 prize attended with fatigue and danger. 
 
 at the Gape of Good Hope, there are many negroes, who can 
 thus indejibly fix in the ikin very neat figures and devices. 
 
 Nor would mv lot have been much better, if one of the mer- 
 chants on the coaft had xanfomed me ; for him too muft I have 
 reimbursed, by leveral years fervitude. Many Europeans, who 
 by fhipwreck had fallen into the hands of the Africans, and 
 who have been by them fold to the European factories, now 
 languifh there in flavery. They are not fuffered to depart, till 
 they have either repaid the ranfom-money, or earned it by 
 hard labour. The Endifh, who boaft of their humanity, pay 
 large iums for fuch unfortunate captives, and then tranfport 
 them to their colonies, thus depriving them of the fatisfaclion 
 of returning to their dear native foil. The Dutch aCl in the 
 fame manner : many Europeans, whom they have pretended 
 to xanfom, are detained m their iflands and colonies. 
 
 P 4 I now
 
 2l6 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 I now began to make preparations for my de- 
 parture, by drying in the fun feveral kinds of 
 fruit, as, for inftance, kihsry (a kind of plums,) and 
 guajavas (a kind of pears, with a reddifh pulp,) 
 and refolded to let out at the time of the next 
 full moon, when the Sovalans celebrate a feftival, 
 and do not go a-hunting. This happened on the 
 i'2th of October. In the morning we drove our 
 flacks to fome grounds lying to the north of the 
 town,- and where I had fome days before hidden 
 my ftore of dried fruits. When the women had 
 retired after milking the ewes and goats, I took 
 leave of my comrade, and ran as faft as poilible 
 through a neighbouring wood, and in two hours 
 reached a ridge of mountains, which extended 
 from north to fouth. As I now thought myfelf 
 out of danger, and had only three villages to pafo 
 before I reached the borders of Angola, which 
 was only four days journey diltant from this 
 place, I fat down :it the foot of the mountain, 
 and ate fome of my dried fruit. But, on looking 
 to the welt, I efpied three lions advancing majcf- 
 tically towards me. Hitherto, indeed, I had pafied 
 unmolefted by fuch animals', but I neverthelefs 
 thought it prudent to fecure myfeif, and ran to- 
 wards the mountain. When I looked round, I 
 obferved that they had turned away to the eaft. 
 I here found feveral kinds of fruit, j but as I had 
 
 yet
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 217 
 
 yet a fuflkient ilock of dried ones, and did not 
 know whether they might not be noxious or 
 poifonous, I did not touch any of them. I lighted 
 a fire, roafted fome land-tortoifes for my fupper, 
 and lay undifturbed near the fire all night. 
 
 In the morning I purfued my journey, and 
 came to a broad valley, through which a imaU 
 river flowed, At this river I relted myfelf feve- 
 ral hours, and took three guilders out of the fin- 
 ing of my waiftcoat, that they might be at hand 
 in cafe they mould be wanted. I faw fome vil- 
 lages at a diflance, but endeavoured to avoid 
 them, as I wanted neither water nor food. But 
 toward evening I came very near another village, 
 the name of which is Akhimy : I was retiring 
 from this a!fo ; but I had been obferved, for fe-. 
 veral people came running towards me, and forced 
 me to go with them to the village. .1 iirfr. re* 
 <juelted fome meal, winch was immediately given 
 me; and then enquired for the Mani; and the 
 perfon to whom I was fpea^ing faid, that he was 
 the Mani, I begged of him to give me a hofpi* 
 table reception, whereupon he faid : " That thou 
 already hail." I then alked per minion to pals 
 the night in the village r He anfwered, " If thou 
 art nof a Chriiiian." I replied, " I am an Arab." 
 
 "For
 
 2l8 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 K For what purpofe art thou come hither ; pro-, 
 bably to fteal Haves :' ; " That I am not guilty 
 of; 1 only wiih to bo allowed to travel through 
 the country towards my native land." " How 
 far diftant art thou from thy native land ?" " I 
 muit yet travel four moons towards the eaft." 
 At laft he faid, " If thou art not a Chriftian, thou 
 mayeft fleep in my hut, and no one mall moleft 
 thee: in the mean time, fit down here." I ac- 
 cordingly fat down in front of the hut, and he 
 continued to view me with great attention. At 
 kft, he aiked me, " how and where I had learned 
 the language of the country r" I anfwered, " That 
 I had remained with one of the kings for three 
 months, and had been well treated by him." 
 
 The moft inquifitive of the inhabitants continued 
 to view, and put queftions to me till about mid- 
 night ; yet in fuch a manner that I had no caufe 
 to be offended. 1 ficpt quietly in the back part of 
 the hut ; and when 1 took leave of the Mani on 
 the following morning, he again gave me fome 
 meal, and adviied me to keep more to the eaft ; 
 for if I proceed td towards the north, I muft tra- 
 vel a large ioreft, where I ihould be in danger of 
 rxrirg c'etcihitd iind ill-treated by the roving par- 
 yjana. Notwithftanding this friendly 
 
 advice,
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 21$ 
 
 advice, I continued to go dire&ly northward, and 
 having paffed clofe to another Sovalan village, at 
 noon reached the foreft, which is half a day's jour- 
 ney in length, and forms a crefcent from tnc north- 
 eaft to the fouth-weft. A fmall river that runs 
 through it forms the boundary between the ter- 
 ritory of the Sovalans and the kingdom of Angola. 
 Towards evening I arrived, quite faint with fa- 
 tigue and thirit, on the banks of this fmall river, 
 lay down and reirefhed myfelf with its excellent 
 water, and refolved to ftav there all nisjht; 
 
 Early on the morning of the 25th of October, 
 I left the wood, and entered a beautiful plain, 
 where I faw fome very line and high reed-grafs. 
 About noon, as I palled near a fmall thicket, I met 
 ten Matambans, who were dealers in fait. They 
 civilly faluted me, and put many questions to me, 
 relating, as far as I could underftand them, to the 
 object of my journey. I anlwered as 'well as I 
 could, and they feemed to have underftood me, 
 for they ceafed queftioning me ; they endeavoured, 
 however, to perfuade me to accompany them. I 
 refufed ; for they were proceeding more to the 
 weft than to the north ; and I parted from them at 
 a village called Gality. This village is the firit a 
 traveller comes to on entering the kingdom of 
 
 Angola
 
 S20 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 Angola by this route, and is very populous. I re- 
 paired to the cottage of the Mani, to requeft his 
 protection : at firft I met with a rude and furly re- 
 pulfe ; but, on prefcnting three guilders to him, 
 he gave me fome milk, meal, and dried pears, and 
 permitted me to pais the night in a hovel among 
 his fheep and goats. 
 
 The kingdom of Angola is fourteen days jour- 
 ney in length from eail to weft, and ten days jour- 
 ney from north to fouth. The country is inter- 
 fered by a number of rivulets ; and the large ri- 
 ver Bambo, which to the north divides it from 
 the kingdom of Congo, waters and fertilizes with 
 its numerous arms the adjoining tracls. Fruitful 
 valleys and excellent pafture-grounds, which al- 
 ternately fucceed to mountains and naked rocks, 
 feem to invite the hand of the cultivator, and pro- 
 mife a rich return for his labour : but the natives 
 are too indolent to improve the advantages which 
 nature has beftowed upon them. To the eaft, 
 Angola borders on the kingdom of Matamba ; 
 to - the fouth, on Bengula and Suva, and to the 
 
 Wreft, on the lea. 
 
 - 
 
 Angoh produces ftltpctrc, filvcr, tin, and ivory, 
 wJhlfcS. the Pdmiguc2e endeavour to obtain from 
 
 the
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 22t 
 
 the natives, in exchange for European commo- 
 dities. They likewife purchafe here a number of 
 fkins. The whole country abounds with various 
 kinds of wild animals, whence the inhabitants de- 
 rive the means of fubfiftence without much trouble, 
 and therefore neglect the breeding of cattle. The 
 elephant and the rhinoceros are here, as it were, at 
 home, whole herds of them being frequently 
 feen. 
 
 The kings of t Angola were formerly dependent 
 upon the kings of Congo ; but the prefent fove- 
 reign has freed himfelf from that ftate of vaffalage,. 
 and thereby gained the efteem and affections of 
 his fubjects to fuch a degree, that even women 
 and children take up arms, whenever war is de- 
 clared againft him. His retinue of flate qonfifts 
 of twenty Mani's, fifty priefts, and a body-guard 
 of two hundred and fifty foldiers, armed with 
 firelocks, which were taken from the Portugueze 
 in 1763 j and in the ufe of which they are very 
 expert. The fuperintendance of every town is 
 committed to two Mani's, and that of every village 
 to one Mani ; but thefe inferior judges cannot give 
 a final decifion in any cafe, but mufl make a report 
 thereof to the King, When I faw him, the King 
 wasabout thirty -fix vears of age; his drefs confifted 
 
 of
 
 522 TRAVELS ftf THI 
 
 of a pair of blue trowfers, and a fcarlet cloak, macfe 
 of very coarfe cloth. He is an enemy to the Por- 
 tugueze, and confeuuently to all ChriiHans, and 
 therefore he reftricted, by various means, Lhe free 
 trade which they formerly enjoyed with his fub- 
 jeetei, and feems only to wait ior a favourable op- 
 portunity to refufe them admittance into his do- 
 minions. The military force confiits of thirty thou- 
 iand well-difciplined foot foldiers j but as there 
 are few horfes in the country, and the many wild 
 beafts prevent their incFeafe, the King keeps no 
 cavalry. Buffaloes are ufed to carry the heavy 
 baggage cf the army. 
 
 The king ufually gives audience in the open air, 
 furrounded by his body-guard, the officers fland 
 
 behind him with drawn fwords. Thefe lie ftyles 
 
 ft * 
 
 lidolgos*, (faithful attendants), and the guards 
 mocarani, (moft excellent foldiers), although they 
 never take the held againft an enemy. The 
 priefts, called Evanga, are - next in rank to the 
 king ; and next to them is the Tambocado, a kind 
 of fuperior judge, to whom the reports of cafes 
 
 
 
 * This word ;'origin;rf!y a Portuguetc wtfof, afid fi^nifos a 
 Aobktr.un. 
 
 from
 
 INTiiRIOJt OF AFftPCA. 22} 
 
 from die inferior judges or Mani's are committed 
 for re-examination : after which he, either him- 
 felf, or through the' medium of the priefts, lays 
 them before the King for his final decifion. 
 
 The inhabitants of Angola do not adore idols ; 
 but worfhip the fun and moon. Every time the 
 moon enters into a new quarter a day of reft is ce- 
 lebrated, on which no one is allowed to go a-hunt- 
 ing. Fail days are ufually appointed when thun- 
 der-ftorms arife ; for they then fay " The great 
 Lord is angry :" and on fuch occafions they ab- 
 ftain from all food, and efpecially when it thunders 
 in the night, leave their huts, and proftrate them- 
 felves with their faces to the ground, till the ftorm 
 ceafes. The harveft-feaft, which lafts three days, 
 is celebrated with the utmoft folemnity. Though 
 they are heathens, yet circumciiion is pra<5tifed 
 among them as a religious rite ; they have likewise 
 huts appropriated to the celebration of divine wor- 
 fhip, and ailemble there on days appointed by the 
 prielts. 
 
 Their domeftic economy is very fimple ; and 
 though nature has amply provided for them va- 
 rious kinds of animals ancl fruits, they are remark* 
 ably temperate in their diet. Agriculture is prac- 
 
 tifed
 
 B24 Travels m the 
 
 tifed only in a few places ; where they fow a kind 
 of millet, barley, and Indian corn. The gourds. 
 and water-melons produced here are excellent. 
 Mufcles are reckoned a great dainty : fo fon<l are 
 fome of the Angolans of that fpecies of ihell-nm, 
 that they will travel for miles in fearch of them. 
 
 Marriage is folernTiized with various ceremo- 
 nies : the bride and bridegroom feat themfclves 
 on the ground ; the prieft then blcfles them with 
 certain formulas which no one underftands, and 
 then walks round them with a flick in his hand* 
 and drives away the evil fpirits. After this the 
 family kindles a fire, and the prieft's Hick is 
 burnt to allies, which are mixed with milk, bleu* 
 ed by the prieft, and fwallowed by the bride 
 and bridegroom. This they think promotes fe- 
 cundity, and keeps off many evils. Polygamy is 
 permitted and is very common ; but divorces are 
 not allowed by their laws ; many of the women, 
 however, are forced by ill ufage to leave their 
 hufbands. The children are educated with great 
 care, being inftrucled by the prieft in reading, 
 writing, and the laws and religion of their country. 
 Inftead of paper, they ufe Ikins covered with fat 
 and foot ; and a fharp-pointed bone fupplies the 
 place of a pen. The priefts ufoally inftruft their 
 
 fcholars
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 225 
 
 "fcholars in the open air ; and I obferved that the 
 children were much more attentive here, than 
 they generally are in the European fchools. The 
 boys all belong to the king, who caufes them, 
 when arrived at the proper age to be trained to 
 the ufe of arms ; and in return grants a certain 
 remuneration to their fathers, as, for example, 
 every one who furniflies a full-grown fon to the 
 king, is maintained one year free of all expences. 
 To enable the king to defray this heavy charge, 
 a third part of the produce of the chace, of all cul- 
 tivated fields, and of all fpoil, which is obtained 
 by any other means, belongs to him. 
 
 As to their drefs - fome wear only aprons made 
 of palm-leaves ; others add to this, an ah-grey 
 cloak of coarfe cloth or linnen, which they pur- 
 chafe from the Portuguefe ; and others wear 
 On their back the Ikins of animals : Their hair 
 k fhort and curly : and they ornament it with 
 mufcle-fhells, or with beads, and other trinkets, 
 which they obtain from the Portugueze. Their 
 cheeks they paint blue or red. They never cut 
 their nails ; and therefore fome of them, who wiffi 
 to fhine as peculiarly fafhionable, carefully pre- 
 ierve the nails of their fingers from all accidents 
 that might break them ; and the nails of fuch 
 
 Q may
 
 2 26 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 may almoft be miitaken for the claws of an 
 eagle. 
 
 Towards natives of Africa they are very hof* 
 pitable, but will not give a night's lodging to a 
 Chriftian. Indeed it is with great reluctance that 
 they permit Christians to come into the country, 
 and therefore they convey to the Portugucze, on 
 the back, of buffaloes, fuch commodities as they 
 wifh to barter for European goods, and bring 
 back what they, receive in exchange. From the 
 Portugucze factories at Soanda and Gambamda, 
 deputies are fent twice every year to Manpango, 
 the rcfidence of the King, to endeavour to pacify 
 him in fome meafure ; as he is greatly incenfed 
 againil them, for kidnapping fo many of his fub- 
 jeefcs, and making flaves of them. Should the 
 projected alliance with the king of Mataman take 
 place, it is not unlikely that the Portuguese wou!d 
 ftill meet with the iamb fate that befell them in 
 Japan. 
 
 On the 1 6th, I informed the Mani that I wimed 
 to purfue my journey ; but he told me, that I 
 mult not depart till I had obtained permiflion from 
 the King to travel through his dominions. Ori 
 my peremptorily declaring that I would not turn 
 
 back,
 
 INTERIOR OP AFRICA. 227 
 
 back, and that I was under the neceflity of palling 
 through this country, he ordered four men to 
 efcort me to the refidence town, that the King 
 himfelf might have an opportunity of feeing me. 
 
 On the following day we arrived in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Malpa,* where we had intelligence, 
 that the king was expected to review the warriors 
 who were encamped near this village. I was after- 
 wards conducted to an Evanga, who treated me 
 very rudely ; and under a perfuafton that I was a 
 Portuguese fpy, ordered me to be tied with ftraps, 
 and, deaf to all my remonftrances and entreaties, 
 told me, that I muft expect to be punched with 
 the utmoft feverity, and that my feeing the king 
 was quite unneceffary. He then ordered my efcort 
 to ftrip me of my waiftcoat, left fome poifon or 
 murderous weapon fhould be concealed there for 
 ailaflinating the king, Thus, to my exceilive 
 grief, my waiftcoat, which contained not only all 
 my money, but alfo my journal, was taken from 
 nie; and the guards leaped for joy, when, on 
 tearing the waiftcoat, the filver- coin fell to the 
 ground. I fcreamed out, and endeavoured to 
 
 * This is a fine village, in a delightful country, about one 
 day's journey from Mapata. The King palfjs two months 
 pvcry year \i\ a camp in its vicinity. 
 
 Q 3 tear ;
 
 3,28 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 tear the ftraps with my teeth, to fecure my pro- 
 perty, but the guards aiTailed me fo violently with 
 their broad iron fpears, that my fpirits began to 
 fail me. They then dragged me into a narrow 
 hut, where my feet was tied to the corner {takes, 
 and I could neither get food nor drink. Tortured 
 by the keeneft pangs of hunger, I aiked my guards 
 whether I was to be ftarved to death; they ani- 
 wered pertly, I might eat kohla (dirt) nor was 
 any food brought me the whole night. 1 was 
 even neceflitated to eafe nature on the fpot where 
 I was lying, becaufe they would not untie me. 
 When the guards were relieved, 1 received halt a 
 handful of millet and a pint of water, wldch was 
 my allowance for the whole day. The guards, 
 who were on duty the next day, told me, that the 
 Evanga intended to caufe me to be fecretly exe- 
 cuted,* without the king's knowledge, and that 
 
 The execution of criminals is effected in th - foilo mg 
 manner. The unfortunate furferer is ltretched on the ground, 
 as though he were to be broken on the wheel, large rods arc 
 fattened between his arms and legs, and long fpears are driven 
 into the ground through his hands and feet. Under thjs torture 
 many ill-fated wretches languifh four, or even fix days, wnntt 
 birds of prey tear the flefh from their bones. When capital 
 punifhment is to be inffiftfd in a milder manner, u fpea, is 
 thruft through the delinquent's body fome hours after he has 
 been expanded on the ground, as above defcribed, 
 
 I mould
 
 I 
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 22g 
 
 I fhould perhaps fuffer that very day. I was there- 
 fore thunder-ftruck at this news, as I knew the 
 king was in the camp, and I hoped that, as I had 
 been miilaken for a fpy, they would have informed 
 him of my being apprehended and fecured. On 
 mature confideration it itruck me, that the Evanga 
 had embraced the aforementioned refolution with 
 a view to feize on my money, as, if he preferred 
 me to the king, he would be obliged to deliver my 
 property into his hands ; at the fame time, I com- 
 municated my fufpicions to the guard, and afked 
 them whether they thought the king would ap- 
 prove of the proceedings. They anfwered, that 
 I was a notorious fpy, and had come to the village 
 to murder their king; that the priefts had con- 
 firmed this ftatement, and the truth of their affer- 
 tioiis would not be doubted. Struck with terror 
 at this unexpected news, I was on the point of 
 fainting away, when my guards proftrating them- 
 felves at the entrance of the hut, with geftures 
 expreffing the moil profound refpeci, I concluded 
 that the king was palling before the hut, and ex- 
 erting myfelf to the utmoft, I cried out ekomah, 
 ekomah (help, help.) One of the guards cut me 
 feverely with a whip, and charged me to. be filent. 
 Not difcouraged by this treatment, I called out 
 harahky, harahky (mercy, mercy.) The king 
 
 hearing
 
 
 *3 l , hf-Ei5s vtr vat 
 
 hearingthefe words, came to the entrance of thfc 
 hut, and enquired what was the matter. One or* 
 my guards anfwered his queftion, and, as well as 
 I could underftand him, repeated frequently the 
 words fpy. murder, death. In confluence of this 
 explanation, the king ordered that I mould be 
 brought out, adding, that he would diipatch me 
 with his own hand, if he found me guilty of the 
 charge. My feet being untied, I was ordered to 
 walkout of the hut, but was fo extremely weak, 
 and had been fo feverely hurt by the (traps, that I 
 could not ftand. They then dragged me out of 
 The hut, and threw me on the ground before the 
 king. He ordered a prieft, who acted as inter- 
 preter, to afk me what motive I had for coming to 
 his country to murder him. I anfwered, that I 
 had not come with any fuchview, but W& aihip- 
 wrecked feaman, and that I merely wifhed to re- 
 turn, through his dominions, towards my native 
 country. " What is the name of thy country ?" 
 <c Arabia." " But thou art a Chriftian, and it is 
 thy defign to explore the ftrength of my domi- 
 nions, and to feduce my fubjecb." I replied, 
 " That I had no fuch defigm, and that fome days 
 back I told his Mani, at Akhimy, that all I wanted 
 rvrmirlion to return through his country to 
 r.ative ki:d, and by the orders of that Mani, I 
 
 to4
 
 Interior of africA. 2:31 
 
 had been efcorted to this village, to fcdicit-thepcr- 
 million, of fo juft and gracious a prince as I knew 
 he was." 
 
 " The Mani mould have ordered thee inftantly to 
 leave my dominions, which I fufFer no Chriftian to 
 enter." " It would have been fortunate for me had 
 he told me Co, for then I mould not have been 
 robbed and ill-treated by thy people." This an- 
 fwer raifed him to a pitch of phrenzy ; he fprung 
 up from the ground., feized me by the arm, and 
 exclaimed, " What doft thoU fay, thou Chriftian 
 dog; arife and prove thy affertion." I anfwered, 
 " Had not thy barbarous fubjects ufed me in a 
 brutilli manner I fhould now be able to rife, and 
 not be obliged to remain lying on this fpot ; but I 
 rely on him who is above thee, and will inflict a 
 pimifhment on thyfelf as well as on thy (ubjecrs. 
 Thou beHeveft not that I have been robbed, but it 1 
 is thy will to kill me and defile thy honour." ft \ 
 charge thee, lie exclaimed, to tell me whence thou 
 cameft, where thou waft robbed, and by whom ?" 
 "Thou believeft not my words," I replied, "if. 
 the robbers deny the fact, and if thou fpareft my 
 life, they will anaftinate me." This encreafed his 1 
 wrath ; he fprung up, kicked me in the fide, and 
 exclaimed, " Speak out, dog, fpeak out, elfe I will 
 
 trample
 
 32 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 trample thee to death." " Kill me if thou findefl 
 me guilty, but hear what I flvall fay in my de- 
 fence." I now gave him a full account of the pro- 
 ceedings of the Evanga, and told him that I had 
 been informed of his intention to execute me fe- 
 cretly. This roufcd his attention ; at laft, after 
 fome confideration, he ordered me to be carried 
 before his hut, where I was prefented with two 
 wolves' hides for a covering, and with fome pieces 
 of elephant's flelh for my food. I was informed 
 foon after that the priefts had attempted to pcr- 
 fuade the King to order me for execution, as I was 
 a madman, and would otherwife certainly murder 
 him. But the King would not liften to this pro- 
 posal, faying, that as I was confined I could not 
 hurt him, and that as yet he had no proof of my 
 being a madman. 
 
 ' The King vifited me the next morning, ordered 
 
 a ialvc,conipofedof herbs and greafe to be applied 
 
 jy feet, and told me that he had given orders 
 
 apprehend the four guards, who had cut my 
 
 \\ '.riflco.it from my body in the Evanga's hut, that 
 
 they might be brought to trial. While he was 
 
 .dipg by me, three or four men were brought 
 
 i and ordered to be carried into the hut of the 
 
 - =g's caftk. 
 
 The
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA 233 
 
 The next morning the King interrogated them 
 in my prcfence, Whether tney had robbed me ? 
 They anfwered in the negative, but added, that 
 by the FA'anga's order they had delivered to him 
 my waiftcoat, fome pieces of money, and another 
 thing of which they were not able to give a de- 
 fcription. The Evanga was immdiately fent for, 
 and on his arrival the King addrefTed him to the 
 following purport : " Thou fhouldfi be jufl, and 
 not unjult ; thou fhouklil endeavour to ward off 
 the wrath of the gods, and thou inviteft their 
 wrath, by robbing and infulting a harmlefs {hun- 
 ger. Begone ! the punimment, to which this 
 ftranger was devoted, fhail be inflicted on thee." 
 He was tied, and carried into the hut of the Kinef's 
 caftle, where, being ftripped of his clothes, fen- 
 tence of death was alfo paneci on him. My money 
 and journal were then produced, and from the 
 latter I was ordered to read to the King- the names 
 of the nations, towns and villages, which I had 
 vifttcd in the courfe of my journey. I com- 
 plied : this being an additional proof of my in- 
 nocence, I was treated with great kindnefs, and 
 obtained my full liberty. The money and journal 
 were reftored to me, as my property, but from 
 motives of gratitude, I prefented the King with 
 twenty guilders, which were moft gracioufly ac- 
 
 R cepted,
 
 234 
 
 X RAVELS IN THE 
 
 cepted, and in return for which I received double 
 their value in gold-duft. 
 
 The day being come on which the Evanga and 
 the four guards were to be executed, I was ordered 
 to aflift at the execution, and to remain near the 
 King. The priibners were removed from the hut, 
 and conducted to the place of execution. The 
 Evanga getting light of me, approached to. beg my 
 pardon, and was going to lay more, but the King 
 ordered him to be taken away, and the ientence 
 to be executed. The prifoners were immediately 
 feized by the executioners, and they were prefently 
 difpatched. The dead bodies were then cut in 
 pieces, and burnt at fun-fet. 
 s 
 
 From this moment I was ordered conftantly to 
 attend the king and three weeks after I joined in a 
 military expedition againft the-Angolans, which was 
 fpeedily crowned with complete fuccefs. We took 
 three hundred and fixty prifoners, forty of whom 
 were of the ravage nation of the Kahyniircs, who 
 inhabit the fouthern part of the kingdom of Ben- 
 gula. 
 
 During my leiiure hours I employed myielf in 
 cleaning the Ibldiers' firelocks, and putting them 
 
 in
 
 INTERIOR -OF AFRICA. 235. 
 
 in a good condition ; they were fo extremely ig- 
 norant in this point, that at my taking off the 
 locks, they were ftruck with aftonifhment. * 
 Moors, who poffefs fome knowledge of the art of 
 making guns, now and then vifit thofe parts, to 
 mend guns and firelocks, but none had been here 
 the laft eight years. I was now a favourite of the 
 King, as well as of all the great men of the coun- 
 try, and was to be appointed an officer in the 
 army, but ncverthelefs I afked permiffion to pur- 
 fue my journey. It was not immediately granted, 
 the King being defirous, that before my departure 
 I mould attend him to his refidence-town, which 
 has the appearance of a fortrefs, feated on a 
 mountain. It is called Mahakah, and is fituated 
 near the river Coanza, on a fteep mountain, on 
 the other fide of which lies the village of Mu- 
 pango, which in 1779, was nearly deftroyed by 
 the Portuimeze. This village, iince it has been 
 rebuilt, enlarged, and embellifhed, well deferves 
 the name of a town, as it contains about four 
 
 * In the profecutlon of my journey in the defert of Sahara, 
 I fell in occaiionallv with ibmc travelling gun-fmiths, who 
 were natives of Abyilinia. They generally make a tour of fix 
 months, during which they can earn as much as will keep 
 them and their families the other fix months at home. They 
 make alio new guns ; but oi this I mail fay more hereafter. 
 
 hundred
 
 1 $6 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 hundred huts. The caftle, which is the King's 
 residence, is of confiderable ftrength ; the Portu- 
 gueze, who have attempted to take it i'jveral 
 times, have been always obliged to raife the fiege 
 with confiderable lofs. One narrow road leads' 
 up to the fiimmit of the mountain, on which it 
 is built ; and here the eye meets every where 
 with heaps of large ftones, with a Ihower of which 
 the aflfailants are fure to be received. I alfo faw 
 pieces of rocks from fifteen to twenty ells in 
 length, which are roiled down the mountain on 
 the bejQegefs, at their approach. At the entrance 
 by the fore-mentioned narrow road, four rows 
 of thick palliladcs are driven into the ground, and 
 the rear is fecured with pieces of rock. The 
 cafde itfelf is badly conftructed, and but one ftory 
 high, but in the centre is a fpriiig, that furiplics 
 the ditch with water, which is four feet deep and 
 wide. The wings are occupied by the foldiers, 
 and in the middle is a temple and another build- 
 ing, inhabited by the eight wives of the king. 
 Having continued here fix days, and experienced 
 the kindeft and mod honourable treatment, I ob- 
 tained frefh liberty to go whither I pleafed ; I de- 
 parted accordingly on the 26th day of February 
 1786, attended by the beft wifhes of the king and 
 the whole court. 
 
 CHAP. V1IL
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 1$*] 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 departure of the Author. The King makes him Pre* 
 fents on taking leave, and orders two Attendants to 
 conducl him on his "Journey northwards by the Vil- 
 lage of Muhag, and the Town of Metbekaba 
 Defcription and Hi/iory of the A-zaborans, of the 
 Villages Mahiny, and Emwahat, and of the Copra* 
 ferpents, with which they abound^ The Village Me- 
 hakam, its Situation on the Borders of the former 
 Kingdom of Loango, its geographical Situation and 
 Hijlory Defcription of the prefent State of the 
 Country, its Produce, Inhabitants and Trade- 
 Paffage over the Paver Bambo to the Robber-Vil- 
 lages, Wodolaha and Ogho At the latter the Au- 
 thor gains a Companion, a Miner, who was carry* 
 ing Metal to Malemba, with whom he travels a 
 Day and a half Hijlory and Defcription of Ma- 
 lemba The Author is here very Jlriclly examined, 
 and brought to the King, who makes him ' firfi a 
 Servant, then a Page of the Body ; but foon after 
 ' he fills into D if grace, and is condemned to Slavery, 
 from which he cf capes, and pajfes ever to the 
 
 Jagans. 
 
 S ON
 
 2$& TRAVELS IN THt 
 
 ON my departure, a new calepafch, or travel- 
 ling bottle, fome pounds of flefh, and a bag 
 of meal, fufficient for four days, were, by the 
 King's order, delivered to me ; and he himfelf 
 prefented me with three hundred zimpo, or fhells, 
 which are ufed for money. Four active young 
 men were alfo ordered to be my guides for two 
 days, and to give me every afliftance poflible on 
 my journey. We had fcarcely gone half a mile, 
 when I obferved, that, though it was my inten- 
 tion to travel eaftward, we were going towards 
 the north. On queftioning my conductors, I 
 learned that we made this turn to the north by 
 the King's orders, that I might not according to 
 my fuppofed wiihes go to the Portuguefe facto- 
 ries. It ftruck me immediately, that the King 
 had always fufpected me of a connection with the 
 Portugueze, and now wifhed to remove me from 
 them. It was in vain for me to make oppofition, 
 I followed my leaders. About mid-day we palled 
 over a fmall river, and came into the fruitful 
 plain of Muhag, a large village, containing about 
 fix hundred perfons ; though I faw very few men, 
 the reft being, as I was informed, employed in the 
 filver mines, about a league and a half farther to 
 the eaft. I rcquefted my guide to conduct mc 
 thither, but they were unwilling to tranfgrefs the 
 
 King's
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 259 
 
 King's command : 1 was compelled to Hop, and 
 my curiofity was not to be gratified. We dined 
 here, and the judge, on hearing that I was the 
 King's friend, provided us with milk, meal, and 
 dried hih in abundance ; and gave us an invita- 
 tion to fpend lbme days with him. Not accept- 
 ing the invitation, we proceded on our journey, 
 and about evening reached the little town, Ma- 
 thekaka, by Matois, a rocky mountain. Here 
 are about three hundred ill built houfes and huts, 
 and a fmall river runs through the town. The 
 inhabitants cultivate millet, barley, gourds, me- 
 lons, and a little Turkifh corn : they poffefs but 
 little cattle, for tigers and wolves are their neigh- 
 bours, and are continually on the watch for prey. 
 On walking round the place I found to my afto- 
 nifhment two fmiths' mops and two potteries : 
 the earthen ware was particularly well made and 
 durable, and was an article, as I learned, of exten- 
 five commerce. We lirft viiited the judge, and 
 requefted his protection, but he fent us to the 
 Evanga, who retained me with him, and fent my 
 guides to other huts. For fupper I had only a 
 handful of meal, mixed with a little milk and 
 water, and for my night's lodging was Ihewn 
 into the goat's hovel, whole door my hoft barri- 
 
 S 2 caded,
 
 26(5 t RAVELS IN THE 
 
 caded without with a wooden crofs.* The flench 
 and the heat prevented me from fleeping ; and 
 on the return of my guides in the morning, I 
 arofe almoft fainting from fatigue. I complained 
 of my night's lodging, and my guides loaded the 
 Evanga with reproaches, threatening to acquaint 
 the King with his ill conduct. He was affected ; 
 for he brought us inftantly milk, meal, and dried 
 fifh, infilled not only on our eating, but on our 
 taking away the remainder ; intreated alfo my 
 guides to pafs the night with him on their return, 
 and to accept of his hofpitality. 
 
 Our path was to the north-eaft over a mountain, 
 which veering from the ealt to the north forms a 
 triangle : here we law many wild fruit trees, and 
 towards mid-day fell in with fome Azahorans,who 
 inhabit this mountain, living on fruits and roots, 
 but chiefly by robbery. I expected ill-treatment 
 from them ; but as wc fliared our provifions with 
 them, they were very friendly, and infilled on our 
 fitting down and refling with them. We com- 
 plied, and afterwards travelled fome leagues far- 
 ther. My guides now informed me, that the Aza- 
 
 * Thefe crcflcs have the fh;ipe of a chevaux-de-frize, in 
 which are fixed long fliarp pointed thorns, to keep the tigers, 
 and wolves from t*ic hovels and ftables. 
 
 horan*
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. z6l 
 
 Iiorans lived without huts, agriculture or pafhire, 
 Ilept in the open air, and wandered conftantly 
 among the mountains. Their whole number con- 
 lifted of between feven and eight hundred perfons, 
 bust it was increafmg every year, and might here- 
 after become formidable to their neighbours. Some 
 ailert, that they derive their origin from the city 
 Zohara, in the territory of Jaga, where they were 
 once far more numerous. In the year 1623 King 
 Manimugy attacked Jaga, took poneffion of the 
 greater part of it, and fummoned Zohara to fur- 
 render. The fummons was rejected, and a fmall 
 army marched out againft them. Enraged at this 
 conduct, the King advanced his army, beat the Za- 
 harans, purfued them into the city, put to death 
 every inhabitant who had not efcaped, and fet the 
 town on fire. The fugitives applied to the King 
 of Angola for protection, who received them wil- 
 lingly, and affigned them a place for their refidence. 
 In time of war they form a free corps, and in moft 
 expeditions are fuccefsful : but their javelins and 
 war-axes remain with them only during the war, 
 and on the return of peace they are delivered back 
 to their protectors. The men are large and ftrong, 
 with a complexion inclining to a red rather than a 
 brown black, with a (hock head, which they adorn 
 with fmall bones. Their religion is heathenifh : 
 the oldeft man among them is both judge and prieft, 
 
 S 3 but
 
 262 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 but he decides only in trifling cafes ; for crimes of 
 a higher nature the criminal is delivered up to the 
 King, and punifhed according to the laws of the 
 land. Here a lingular diftinefcion between the 
 fexes is worthy of mention, which confifts in the 
 hair, that of the women in this nation being long 
 and beautiful, and the girls, when they are only a 
 few weeks old, are remarkably diftinguifhed by 
 their hair from the boys of the fame age. 
 
 About evening, after pafling feveral troops of 
 Azahorans, we reached, on our defcent from the 
 mountain, the little village Kamoh, in an agreeable 
 and fruitful fituation on the Molo, a ftream about 
 four feet wide, which runs round the mountain 
 towards the north-eaft. Here I faw fome tolerable 
 paftures of cattle and well cultivated fields. The 
 judge gave us a good night's lodging, and provi- 
 fions as good as he could procure. On the next 
 morning my efcort returned back; but the judge, 
 having heard that I was a friend of the King's, 
 gave me a meffenger to conduct me to Mahiny. 
 The road was exceedingly bad 1 and with the ut- 
 moft toil we made our way through thickets, like 
 barricarioes, and fometimes, where they were im- 
 penetrable, we were compelled to go a long way 
 round. Infects and ferpents were every where in 
 fVarms, and fome young lions, who intimidated 
 
 my
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 263 
 
 my guide more than myfelf, followed us for nearly 
 a league. We palled through fcveral vallies, 
 without finding either drinkable water or vil- 
 lages, and it was quite evening before we came to 
 Hatagna, a little village with between fixteen and 
 twenty miferable huts. I wifhed to pafs the night 
 here, but my guide allured me, that he was ordered 
 to bring me to Mahiny on this day ; fo I grafped 
 my ftafif again and walked a league farther. When 
 we came to Mahiny, we found the judge was re- 
 tired to reft : he was cajled up by my guide, who 
 informed him, that he had conducted me hither 
 by the King's command, and that I hoped to meet 
 with a hofpitable reception. The furly fleepy 
 judge gave us his word for a night's lodging, 
 threw me out a mat, and promifed to fetch us both 
 milk and meal. This however I did not expect, 
 but threw myfelf on my mat, and fell alleep. 
 When I awoke, I miffed my guide, and on enquir- 
 ing after him was informed that he was gone back 
 to his home. The judge in the morning looked 
 on me with greater attention, and obferving that 
 my complexion was quite different from that of 
 the natives, and perceiving that I was foinewhat 
 acquainted with their language, he became more 
 friendly and good-tempered, and intreated me to 
 fpend the day with him, and to put up with his 
 humble fare : I accepted his invitation with plea- 
 
 S 4 lure,
 
 264 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 lure, repofed myfelf, cat and drank, and converted 
 with my hoft. Here I again partook of elephants 
 flefli drefled with metabah * milk and ogheghe- 
 bonitahs, and made a moft excellent dinner. The 
 metabah and the foup had made the flefh very ten-*, 
 der, and given it a good rich flavour. 
 
 On the third of June I refumed my journey, 
 and was conducted by a flave of the judge to the 
 next village, called Emwahat, diftant about a half 
 day's walk. Before we came into the village, we 
 were to go the north-eaft : but my guide would 
 not take that path, and turned eaftward, that he 
 might fhew me in the neighbourhood, through 
 which I was to go, two barren peaked mountains 
 at a diftance, between which there was, he faid, a 
 hole, called Nunquiata (the ferpents' hole), where 
 there was a prodigious number of ferpents, that 
 came into the country around for food. When 
 we were about half a league from the village, he 
 pointed out to me, at a little diftance from the fer- 
 pents' hole, two men, who were, he faid, placed as 
 
 * Metabah are a kind of peak that grow from fifty to a 
 hundred in a plant on very fine threads. In the proper fenfe 
 of the word they are not pcafe, as they do not grow in pods 
 but like grain. 
 
 guards
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 265 
 
 guards by the village to watch and deftroy the fer- 
 pents that came from the hole. 1 afterwards 
 learned the art and method of taking and killing 
 thefe moil dangerous creatures in the befl and 
 ikfeft way ; which is to feize them, that their tail* 
 may be cut off firft with fecurity, iince the poifon 
 is there lodged : there they are broiled over a 
 charcoal fire, and eaten as a very delicate difh. In 
 the village I faw fome of the ferpents thus killed, 
 which the natives called Copra, probably from the 
 Portugueze word Cobra : they were of confider- 
 able length, and might weigh from twenty to 
 thirty pounds each. The head was round though 
 rather flat at the top ; the ground of the colour was. 
 alii grey, with a green ftripe running round the 
 body about a quarter of an inch in breadth. In 
 the kingdom of Bahahara I found fome of the fame 
 kind, but not fo larsre. 
 
 l t>" 
 
 Emwahat confrfts of about thirty huts, being 
 within the kingdom of Angola, from whofe bor- 
 ders it is diftant about a half day's journey, fituat- 
 ed on a fruitful foil by little hills to the north, and 
 to the fcuth by a river which I took for an arm of 
 the river Bambo. My guide wifhed at this place 
 to turn back, but was prevailed on by my entrea- 
 ties to conduct me (till farther. After a reft of 
 two hours we purfued our journey through a 
 
 pleafant
 
 *66 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 pleafant wood, well ftocked with fruit trees, till wc 
 came to the borders of the kingdom ; where my 
 conductor left me, after hearty wifhcs of a good 
 journey to me, and returned to his own home. 
 After walking a league farther I fpent the night at 
 the end of the wood. 
 
 On the fifth of June I came to a narrow pafs, and 
 foon after to the village ofMohakam, once a bor- 
 der town in ,the kingdom of Loango *. I fhould 
 have miffed the village, which lies between fome 
 eminences, if a good-tempered old woman, who 
 was picking up fticks, had not brought me to if, 
 where fhe firft gave me fome milk, and then con- 
 dueled me to the judge. The judge, a fenfible 
 young man, queftioned me firft on the nature of 
 
 * This tract of land, which once formed the kingdom of 
 I.oango, was fifty-iix German miles in length from weft to 
 eafr, and fifty of the fame miles in breadth from fouth to north. 
 Jt lies to the north-eaft, between Guinea and the month cf the 
 river Zaire. The king was defeated in the year 1778 by the 
 Portugueze and the king Siaoakuly from Cacongo, and foon 
 after the battle was murdered by his fubjecls. The inhabitants 
 this country arc now free ; they yield indeed to the king of Ca- 
 congo an insignificant tribute, which is paid by the Portu- 
 guei~, for which they enjoy a free trade in Loango. The 
 eldeft arechofen always by th:: nation as judges, and willing 
 deference is paid to their dtcifions. 
 
 my
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. l6j- 
 
 my journey, and then ordered me fome milk and 
 millet meal in a large tortoife-fhell : he endea- 
 voured alfo to perfuade me either to flay with him 
 or to turnback, as there was no poflibility of tra- 
 velling through fome wild and favage nations in 
 my way without danger. I was not to be per- 
 fuaded, but enquired further after the road, and 
 fafeft manner of travelling ; particularly after the 
 nature of the road to the city of Malemba, which 
 my former guides defcribed to me as wide and well 
 built. The judge was of opinion, that I fhould 
 not eafily find my way without a guide ; and, as he 
 allured me that he could foon find me one for thirty 
 zempo a day, I begged of him to procure me one. 
 Curiofity had brought together a number of by- 
 ftanders, from whom he felected a ftrong man with 
 wild afpeel, whofe looks terrified me, when he 
 was prefented to me, as I could not confider myfelf 
 fafe under his guidance and protection. The judge 
 took notice of my embarraffment, encouraged me, 
 and advifed me to place confidence in this man, 
 who was both well acquainted with the way, a very 
 good man, and particularly one not to be intimi- 
 dated by danger. I paiTed the night with the judge, 
 who had provided for me a good lodging, and 
 there was no want of milk, meal and tortoife flefh. 
 Before 1 fet out in the morning, I counted out to 
 
 my
 
 ?68 Travels in thb 
 
 my guide Iiis thirty zempo, and thus made my own 
 burden lighter. 
 
 This fcems to be the place to give fome account 
 of the nation defcribed to be fo favage, which I 
 was now going to vifit. This country is divided 
 into three parts, very mountainous, but very fruit* 
 ful. The minerals found here are, copper, lead, 
 tin, and fome gold dull. The vegetables produced 
 are millet, Turkey corn, peas, gourds, fugar-cane 
 and tobacco. A tolerable kind of palm wine is 
 made here, and their plum juice is moil excellent. 
 Their gain from cotton is inconfiderable, as the 
 cultivation of it has from the continual wars with 
 the neighbouring nations been very much injured, 
 and in 1780 the fine wood by the city Alemith- 
 angoy (ango) about a league in length and nearly 
 as much in breadth, and producing a great deal of 
 cotton, was burnt down to the ground. Here are 
 wild and tame animals in abundance, elephants 
 valuable for their ivory, lions, tigers, and wolves, 
 with whofe fkins a coniidcrable traflkkis carried on 
 at Malcmba, the principal trading town in this 
 country, and thencewith feveral European nations, 
 particularly the Dutch. Buffaloes, bulls, peacocks, 
 red and blue flriped ring-doves of confiderable fize, 
 and partridges, are here alfo to be found. The hares 
 
 of
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 2 6$ 
 
 of this country, called Mayzahto, arc about the (ize 
 "of the Weil Indian hare, but their hair like that of 
 their fheep, which is very much like our turnfpits, 
 is very unprofitable. The great lake above the city 
 Malemba produces good fifh, particularly large and 
 well-tafted mufcles. The three parts of the coun- 
 try are thefe following : firft, the upper part by 
 the fea-fide belonging to the Portugueze : the fe- 
 cond inhabited by the Malembans, which is the 
 middle of the country, and on the weft bordering 
 on the Portugueze factories : the third or lower 
 part is the kingdom of Cacongo. The two laft 
 mentioned nations were about an hundred and 
 fiftv vears as:o under the fame Kin2\ but foon after 
 that time feveral great men at the court of the 
 King of Loango, took advantage of his violence 
 and carelefihcfs, and endeavoured to erecr. king- 
 doms for themfelves : thus the kingdoms of Ma- 
 lemba and Cacongo were formed, which however 
 have been fubjeel: to feveral revolutions. 
 
 Tliefe two head nations, which kept within 
 bounds the ambition of the Portugueze. can with 
 the affiftanee of their allies bring into the field 
 thirty thoufand men in arms : their weapons in- 
 deed are only bows and arrows, but they ufe them 
 with great bravery. The whole army confifts of 
 
 iniantrv.
 
 270 
 
 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 infantry. Their religion is heathenifh, without 
 many ceremonies and without fuperftition, for 
 they acknowledge only one fupreme Being, to 
 whom prayers are offered daily, morning and 
 evening, in ill-conftrucfced temples. The priefts 
 have litde influence in the government, and are not 
 fo much efteemed as by other heathenifh nations* 
 Great pains have been taken by the Portugueze, 
 but without fuccefe, to extend Chriftianity in thefe 
 countries: for the multiplicity of their ceremonies, 
 and ftill more their doclrines, which reafon cannot 
 comprehend, are an abfolute barrier to the con- 
 verfion of heathens accuftomed to the worfhip of 
 God in fimplicity. Here are no houfes for fchools ; 
 the children are taught on a green in the open air. 
 The art of writing has been long known : inftead 
 of paper, palm leaves areufed; and inftead of pen s, 
 little bones of birds or fifh. The colour of the in- 
 habitants inclines more to the dark brown than the 
 red, and gives them a wild afpect : they are in ge- 
 neral large and ftrong, with large eyes, long hair, 
 adorned with little bones and fhells, and flat nofes 
 and thick pouting lips. The body down to the 
 middle is ufually bare: round the waift are fattened 
 aprons of palm leaves or the fkins of wild beafts, to 
 cover the nudities. Thofe in the vicinity of the 
 Portugueze fetdements, wear aprons of blue and 
 
 ftriped
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 2] I 
 
 ftriped linen, as thin as that of which our boulters 
 are made. The women have this Angularity, that 
 they part their hair into four, five, or fix locks ; 
 which they bind round the head ; ornamenting 
 them with {hells, bones, or glafi beads* They all 
 belinear their bodies with fat from the tails of their 
 fheep, which remains always fluid. I was myfelf 
 obliged to comply with this difgufting cuftom, on 
 account of the exeeiTive heat of the fun, by which 
 the Ikin was liable to be moil painfully fcorched. 
 The houfes are framed with reeds, wood, and 
 clay ; fometimes, too, of rough unpolifhed ftones. 
 They are, however, but poor hovels ; and have 
 each a round roof, with a hole in it for the tranf- 
 miilion of the fmokc. The ordinary food of thefe 
 people confifts of four milk, meal, fifh, and frefh 
 venifon. For occafions of feftivity, they flay fome 
 of their tame animals. They live better in the 
 town than in the houfes fcattered over the coun- 
 try- They are no ftrangers to veffels for cookery ; 
 which, however, they havenot in common, ufe. The 
 ufeoffpices is very ancient among them: and of 
 thefe, they are ftill exceedingly fond. Hofpitaiity 
 is more eminently practifed toward ftrangers in 
 this than in any other part of all Africa. A tra- 
 veller unacquainted with the country is never left 
 to explore his way alone and in uncertainty, but 
 
 is
 
 2J1 TRAVELS IN IKt 
 
 is kindly attended from one village to another, of 
 guided to where he can be in no danger of miftaking 
 his way. Thefe people are remarkable for warm 
 open-hearted kindnefs : they cheerfully fliare with 
 you any thing they have ; not, however, without 
 expecting fome return, on your part. Injuries 
 are furioufly revenged ; and jealoufy is here one 
 of the reigning mifchiefs of life. If a man have 
 but the flighted fufpieion that his wife has held 
 any converfation with another man ; if they have 
 had but a lingle interview at which he himfelf has 
 not been prcfent ; it becomes infinitely difficult to 
 perfuade him that his honour has not been be- 
 trayed. The men are moftly occupied in the 
 purfuits of hunting and fifliing, and in the cxer- 
 cife of arms. Some, however, manufacture ear- 
 then ware, forge arms, or weave nets. I pafled, 
 with my guide, through the villages of Magay, 
 and Seehang; and flopped for the night at the 
 town of Kungoha. This laft ftands in a fwampy 
 fituation, at the foot of an inconfiderable hill. I 
 here counted about two hundred and feventy 
 houfes of mean appearance : the water had a pu- 
 trid fmell, and was drawn at the diilance of a 
 quarter of an hour's walk from the town. The 
 inhabitants are chiefly miners, who are, for the 
 greater part of their time, employed among the 
 
 adjacent
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 273 
 
 adjacent hills. King Mafahwah, of Cacongo, is 
 lord of the town ; and its ordinary government is 
 by two judges who refide here for this purpofe, 
 under his authority. I was hofpitably received ; 
 but had fcarcely fet out, next morning, when an 
 attempt was made to detain me as a white Have. 
 I. contrived, however, to ilip a piece of money into 
 the hand of the judge before whom I was carried j 
 and he let me at liberty. 
 
 On the 8th we held our way over the hill of 
 Mahta, the higheft in thofe parts. It joins, at one 
 end, thofe which are named the Mountains of the 
 Moon. Palling here we faw, on our left hand> 
 the town of Moohog, which bears alfo the name of 
 Niederbemde. Beyond the hill, we came within 
 light of a number of men at work. When we had 
 come up to them, we found they were forty per* 
 fons occupied in digging ore cf tin. I afked if they 
 knew how to fmelt it themfelves ? and was in* 
 formed that they did not, but fold it to fmelting- 
 houfes at Malemba. From thefe people I procured 
 fome milk. J offered them a guilder, and received 
 in change for it three hundred and lixty zimpo. 
 At this I was exceedingly Jurprized ; having hi* 
 therto fuppofed that- the people in thefe parts 
 were utterly Grangers to the ufe of coined money. 
 M.y guide foon after afked me to give him one of 
 
 T thofe
 
 i/4 1 RAYI.LS IN THE 
 
 thofe pieces ; and upon infpccHng it, he faid that 
 he had fometimes before feen fimilar pieces. To- 
 wards evenings we met with fome men on their 
 return from hunting;, who were going to Wodo- 
 laha *, where they had their dwellings. They en- 
 deavoured to perfuade us to go with them ; but 
 my guide would not confent. When they had 
 left us, he told me that the place was in no good 
 repute, and could not be fafely vifited by travellers. 
 At the diftance of an hour's walk from the village 
 of Ohgo, where was a ferry over the river, we 
 halted, and attempted, but without fucceis, to 
 kindle a fire. At hit, being greatly fatigued, wtf 
 threw" ourfclves down on a heap of leaves, and flept 
 nndiftuvbod till the morning. We tlien entered 
 the village. After an hoar's delay we were ferried 
 over the river, for which we were required to pay 
 Jixty zimpo. We fell here into company with a 
 fellow-traveller, a man who was carrying ore for 
 fale at Malemba : he was a man of great informa- 
 n, fo that I exceedingly regretted I cOuld not 
 underitand his fpeech. By the way from the river 
 to Malemba, which was a day and a halPs journey, 
 we found every where abundance of fine well- 
 taftcd fruits, and wholefome frefh water. An ex- 
 cellent well at fome hours diftance from the town, 
 __ __ __ 
 
 Wcclolaha lonlifls of a few hoi^cs on the weft fide of th- 
 Bumbo, whys it a ferry over the river. 
 
 and
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 275 
 
 and which affords the beft water, is named by the 
 inhabitants Bonhi Bckoma, the Golden Well. 
 
 On the nth we reached the extremity of the 
 town ; but we were not permitted to enter it, till 
 a meflenger had been difpatched to the Malfutta 
 (a fort of Qovernor) to inform him of our arrival, 
 and to aik his permiffion for us to go into the 
 town. Alter an hour's delay came an officer, at- 
 tended by three other men, who queftioned me in 
 terms nearly fimilar to thofe which are put to 
 ftrangers at the gates of all the great towns in 
 Germany. They were furprized to hear me fay 
 that I was from the eaft country, as I was in the 
 common drefs of the neighbourhood, and there 
 was nothing lingular in my whole appearance. 
 The officer upon this turned from me, and (aid to 
 the guard, Manwnailibuta- (a Portugueze Lord). 
 We were now detained in a hut in the fuburbs, in 
 the cuftody of four men appointed to watch us. 
 I foon perceived that I was taken for a fpy, and 
 was likely to be very feverely dealt with. The 
 officer went away, but quickly returned, and took 
 my guide with him. The guide was probably in- 
 terrogated concerning my character, and the ob- 
 ject of my journey. When he came back to me, 
 he faid that he muft now return home. I counted 
 out to him the number of zimpo which I by agree- 
 T 2 ment
 
 276 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 ment owed him, giving him over and above two 
 guilders on account of the kindnefs and fidelity 
 with which he had ferved me. One of the guards 
 conducted him out of the fuburbs. All this day I 
 was left to reft in the hut, and was well fupplied 
 with water, prunes, apples, and a little milk with 
 fome flour in it. My keepers were inquifitive con- 
 cerning the adventures of my travels ; and I an- 
 fwered readily to all their enquiries. In the even- 
 ing returned the officer whom I before mentioned ; 
 and with many excufes and pretences he informed 
 me that the Kingy whom he had not expected be- 
 fore next morning, wa now arrived. The King 
 being curious to fee me, ordered me to be carried to 
 his houfe. The moment I entered he put to me the 
 following queftions, to which I was obliged to 
 anfwer : 
 
 " What want you in this town ? Are you a 
 merchant or a fpy ? Anfwer. " I want nothing. 
 " I am an unfortunate man, that has efcaped from 
 fhipwreck ; and I have a curiofity to fee this fine 
 town, having heard it much fpoken of, many days 
 journey backward in the country through which 
 I have panned hither." 
 
 " Of what nation are you ? Whence came you ?" 
 " I am an Arab, from South Caffre-land : our 
 Ihip was wrecked on thofe mores." 
 
 " If this be fo, you muft have had companions 
 
 in
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 277 
 
 in your misfortune : where are they ?" " Only 
 two befidc myielf efcaped alive. They travelled 
 with me tili they both fell fick ; when, being uiir 
 able to proceed, they were murdered by the 
 Caffrcs." 
 
 " How far diftant from hence is the place where 
 your fhip was wrecked ?" r" Between fix and 
 feven hundred miles." 
 
 " Had you the drefs you now wear when you 
 were on board the fhip r" " No ; my cloaths 
 were taken from me by the Cafes. " 
 
 " How far is it to your native country ?" * 
 " That I cannot tell." 
 
 " Here you ihall be entertained till a fhip arrive, 
 that may convey you to you;* friends." 
 
 He then gave his orders to the officers to con- 
 duct me back to where I had been under guard, 
 and to furnifh me with clgaths. I there received a 
 body-guard, for fo it was called being blue and of 
 half the length of a mantle : it reached not lower 
 on the body than to the buttocks. With it was 
 given me a fliort apron, and a piece of cotton-fuifF 
 for a turban which I was to wear on my head. 
 When I was dreffed, the fame officer conducted me j 
 back to the King, who did me the honour to ap- 
 point me attendant on his baggage-buffalo, which 
 I was to load and unload from time to time. This 
 poftl held for three months, till the King returned 
 to the place of his ordinary relidence. 
 
 T x Malcmba
 
 278 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 Ma'.cmba was once the capital ttf a fmall princi- 
 pality. Its fovereign had the title of Maleinba 
 Nahany, or Prince of Rights. The laft of thefe 
 princes entered into an alliance with the Zoggo^ 
 reern,* the object of which was, to make him 
 king of two nations, and to fpoil his neighbours 
 of their territories. He was, however, defeated 
 by the King of Cacongo, made prifoner, and 
 -(tripped of his dominions. The whole kingdom 
 of Cacongo, to which Malemba now belongs, is 
 in length about feventy German miles, in breadth 
 about forty. It is very fertile ; abounding in 
 vegetables, minerals, and other productions, par- 
 ticularly bcalts for the chace, of all forts, which 
 are flain in great numbers chiefly for the fake of 
 their (kins. Here too is found enough of fait for 
 the common ufes of life, with abundance of me- 
 tallic ores, which laft are, however, lefs fkilfully 
 wrought here than in various other places. The 
 river Bambo, and the fea-coaft of Sahmoja, afford 
 plenty of fifh of all forts. Europeans trade to 
 great advantage with this place. For things of 
 linall value, fuch as trinkets, bar-iron, glafs-beads, 
 eoarfe ftufl's, linen, and cotton, with arms of very 
 
 * Tho'e were tributaries to \hr Kir.r; of Angola, andpolIWl- 
 cd a narrow tract of country adjacent to the eaft fide of that 
 liilc of that kingdom. 
 
 indifferent
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 279 
 
 indifferent fabrication, they obtain, in return, 
 great, quantities of hides of the beft quality. 
 
 The royal army conliils of about twelve thou- 
 fand men, who can be affemblcd within the 
 ipace of eight-and-forty hours. The King is, 
 himielf, a brave foldier, leads his warriors, in 
 perfon, into the field ; and, for his policy and 
 valour, is dreaded by the moft formidable of his 
 neighbours, who would otherwife be fuilicicntly 
 ready to attempt encroachments upon his domi- 
 nions. He is not lefs haughty than valiant. When 
 he goes abroad, he is attended by four principal 
 officers, and by twelve men who compofe his 
 life-guard. When he gives audience, all prefent 
 are obliged to kneel before him. His principal 
 officers arc at the fame time judges in the towns 
 and villages : but in matters of great importance, 
 they have not authority to determine without 
 laying the affair before the King. He is very re* 
 iigious, and goes" morning and evening to public 
 prayers. The priefts, if they deiire to win the 
 King's favour, mull live very circumfpectly, and 
 perform their functions with the utmoft punctua- 
 lity. Polygamy is allowed. The male children 
 belong from infancy to the King, who devotes 
 > v hem to the military profeHion, and makes them 
 excrcife themielvcs in arms from their earlier]: 
 
 T 4 years.
 
 C$0 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 years. Mothers educate their daughters : the boys 
 are educated by the priefts. The King has twenty 
 wives, who are treated with the harlhnefs and in- 
 difference uied towards flaves, and are rarely al- 
 lowed to ihew themfelves in public. Moft of the 
 fons of thofe wives are appointed in their early 
 years to high oftices. In time of war, the offi- 
 cers have pay and provifions from the King ; but 
 the common foldiers mult find provifions for 
 themfelves ; for which reafon they are ufually 
 attended by their wives, whofe bufinefs is to fup- 
 ply them with victuals. The King has in his do- 
 minions two towns, eight-and-thirty villages, 
 with a caftle that flands on a high hill. Malemba 
 is the capital. It contains feven hundred houfes 
 or huts, three ftreets ineafuring its length, and 
 two crofs-ftreets. The handlomeft and befl 
 occupied of thefe is, the KofTa, or tradefman's 
 ftreet. The market is held here ; the Portuguefe 
 and Dutch merchants have in this ftreet their 
 counting-houfes and warehoufes ; and this is like- 
 wife the place where moft of the handicraftfmen 
 cxercife their occupations. The Rifuhao-ftreet 
 has alio the advantage of a market-place, in which 
 fruits and ail forts of cattle are ibid. Every one 
 of the long ilreets has at each end a gate, guarded 
 by fixteen or twenty men, whole buiinefs is to 
 take care that victuals, wares, &c. be neither 
 
 brought
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 201 
 
 brought in nor carried forth, without paying a 
 (Certain toll, limilar in its nature to the excife of 
 Germany or Britain. The town is furrounded 
 with a dry wall of rough unhewn ftones, with-, 
 out any ibrt of cement, and with a ditch. The 
 prefent caflle in which the King, when he comes 
 here, refides, is but a ferry building, one ftory 
 high, and about five hundred feet in circumfer- 
 ence. Its exterior apartments are occupied by 
 foldiers : the king's wives are confined in its in- 
 terior recefies. It Hands on the more of the river 
 Malempo, at no great diflance from the fea, and 
 enjoys a good profpecl. I faw it mounted with 
 four pieces of artillery, three-pounders ; the pur- 
 chafe of winch coil the King a great expence. I 
 muft remark, that ivory and gold-duft are brought 
 to market at this place, and are fold for pieces in 
 money, or bartered for European wares. Chriftian 
 traders are obliged to pay here a duty of five per 
 cent, on all goods which they buy or fell. While 
 I continued here, a Dutch merchant-fhip came into 
 the river, whofe captain, by name Vofenmeyen, 
 wiiiied to purchafe from my mailer thirty ele- 
 phants' teeth. For thofe he offered a piece of red 
 doth, fome ells in length, as a turban three 
 firings of yellow glafs beads four knives with tin 
 handles 2nd a woollen fhawl into the bargain. 
 The King feeined to be more than half inclined 
 
 to
 
 28l TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 to accept his offer. But I took the liberty to ob- 
 ferve, when he had delivered to the Captain ten 
 of the teeth, that the goods offered were mere 
 trifles, and not worth more than two or three of 
 the teeth ; that, however, to afford him the means 
 of exorbitant profit, he fhould have the whole ten 
 for them ; that the thirty he could by no means 
 have at fuch a rate ; and that, if he delired to 
 have the other twenty, he mull pay for them with 
 other goods. The Captain ftared at me, and 
 afked jeeringly, if I were the King's keeper ? 1 
 anfwered, " That I am not : but I have under- 
 taken to fee that thefe elephant's teeth {hall not 
 be given away for nothing, but fold for a fair 
 price." Provoked at this, he ftrove to perfuade 
 the King that I whTted to difcourage the trailick, 
 becaufe the goods offered were not to my tafte. 
 The King feeing that I was angry at this imputa- 
 tion, aiked why I would not deliver all the 
 teeth? I took courage, and replied "The ten 
 elephant's teeth which 1 have delivered to the 
 Captain, were much more valuable than the goods 
 .with which he was to pay for them ; and I can- 
 ' not -agree that my kind and worthy maftcr fhould 
 be o egrcgiouily impofed upon as to give more 
 for thofe goods." This anfwer foothed the King, 
 fo that he faid, " Thouknowcit better than I how 
 to deal with him, I leave it to thee." lie then 
 
 arofe
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 283 
 
 arofe and left us. The Captain then thought pro- 
 per to alter his tone ; and for the thirty elephant's 
 teeth I obtained, befide the goods which he had 
 before offered, two hatchets, fix pairs of fciffars, a 
 looking-glafs, and twenty guilders. The money 
 I kept to myfelf ; the goods I delivered to the 
 King, who was fo overjoyed, and fo much pleafed 
 with me, that he upon this occafion relieved me 
 from my accuftomed labour, promoted me to be 
 one of his body-guards, and even gave me, with 
 other new clothes, a mantle of confiderable value, 
 which he himfelf had juft laid afide. From this 
 time I. was obliged to be in conftant attendance 
 upon him, a thing not at all agreeable to me, as 
 it left me lefs at liberty than I had hitherto been. 
 I once went a hunting with him ; and on that 
 occafion I killed a ftag with a javelin, with which 
 he was fo much pleafed, that he gave me liberty 
 from that time to go a hunting whenever I chofe. 
 The Evanga, however, though pretending to be my 
 friend, was at heart my enemy, and ilrove to ex- 
 cite the King's fufpicions againft me. He foon 
 found opportunity to gratify the malignancy of 
 his difpofition in this refped. He commanded 
 me, in the King's name, to go, and pluck fome 
 plums, and to carry them into the apartments in 
 which the King's wives lived. I alked to whom I 
 was there to give the plums. He informed me, that 
 
 they
 
 2 #4 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 they were to be given to an old woman whom 1 
 fhould there and expecting them. I plucked the 
 fruity and took it into the feraglio, but the old 
 woman I could not find. I called, but no perfon 
 made anfwer ; I called ftill louder, and then came 
 the Evanga, whofe apartments were near. He for- 
 bade me to call aloud left the women fhould be 
 difturbed and alarmed. I then recollected the 
 King's command, and was all at once filent. He 
 ordered me to retire and leave the fruit with him, 
 without faying any thing of it, unlefs it fhould be 
 enquired for by the King. I wiftied to be gone, 
 upon which he told me that I might go to my 
 mafter's wives if I wifhed to lofe my life in 
 the morning. I well knew that going into the 
 women's apartments was forbidden under the fe- 
 vereft penalties. But the authority of the King's 
 command made me eafy on this fcore, and \ was 
 without fear of confequences. The Evanga again 
 fpoke to me, and propofed that I fhould accom- 
 pany him to his abode. I followed him, and he 
 entertained me with Embetth, or palm-wine, with 
 which I was fo much intoxicated, that I forgot 
 the fruit. I ftaggered to my own dwelling, and 
 there concealed as well as I could my diigrace. 
 This anfwered the purpofe of the Evanga, who, 
 while I was aflecp, took the fruit to the King, 
 telling him how much I had alarmed the women, 
 
 and
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 28$ 
 
 and that I had threatened the lives of the guard, 
 and had endeavoured to force fny way, iti fpite of 
 oppofition, into the apartments of his Majefty's 
 Wives. The guards not having been on their duty 
 at the time when I went towards the apartments 
 of the women, were in great difficulty how to 
 act ; but, as they had gone out of the way with- 
 out leave, found it necefiary to fide with the 
 Evanga. The King gave orders that I mould be 
 arrefted and examined. Two foldiers came to 
 awake me, and carry me to examination. Being 
 in a ftate of intoxication, I faid things which in 
 another fituation I mould have been incapable of 
 uttering. 
 
 I was accordingly put in fetters, and confined in a 
 wretched hut without the caftle, the door of which 
 was bolted and made faft with leathern thongs. 
 There I lay till next day at noon, forely afflicted with 
 thirft and hunger. At laft came four foldiers, who 
 bade me follow them. I did as 1 was bidden, and 
 was conducted by them into the King's prcfence, 
 who appeared to be angry with me. From the 
 foldiers I could learn but little either of what had 
 happened to me, or what I had faid when examin- 
 ed on the preceding day. I came therefore un- 
 prepared to anfwer the queftions which were now 
 to be put to me, and to defend myfelf againft the 
 
 accu-
 
 286* Travels in the 
 
 actufations of the Evanga. What I now faid. 
 feemed not to give fatisfaclion. The King* 
 therefore, ordered me to be carried to my 
 hut, and there to be fupplied with fome milk 
 and flour for my fubfiftence. After I had 
 lain in the hut for fome hours longer, I called 
 to the guard, and requefted them to loofe my fet- 
 ters. They gave me fome hearty curfes* and 
 retired, commanding me to be quiet. Next morn- 
 ing I was carried back, and was again fharply 
 examined. I could do nothing more than own 
 that I was drunk, and afk forgivenefs for the of- 
 fence. This was not enough* But at the end of 
 my examination two foldiers were ordered to give 
 me with thongs of leather twenty lafhes, of which 
 I fcverely felt the fmart. I was conveyed back, 
 and left without other confolation for what I had 
 funered, than half a pint of water and a handful 
 of grains of millet to fupport nature. My fituation 
 had for fome days before been altered greatly for 
 the worfe ; and I was now treated like a flave, 
 forced to cut and bring in wood, and degraded to 
 other menial fervices equally painful and ignomi- 
 nious. The food allowed me was alfo bad and 
 fcanty, fo that I had not half enough for my ade- 
 quate fubfiftence. Every one fcoffed and derided 
 me ; and my hardfhips were fo great, that I de- 
 fired to die. Though the Evanga pretended that 
 
 he
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 28? 
 
 he pitied mc, yet, that he felt no - kind of pity- 
 in his heart will appear hereafter. But the 
 ltorm mull at length be over, and give place 
 to calm and funftiine. I had remained in this 
 wretched condition for about fix weeks, and 
 without any profpect of relief, or of aught but 
 the utmoft wretchednefs ; when, on a certain 
 occafion, the overfeer of the King's flaves received 
 orders to go with a part of the Haves under his 
 care to the mountain of Comoh* in fearch of firing. 
 Next day, the 6th of October, to the number of 
 iixty flaves, with twenty foldiers, departed for the 
 execution of this defign. Among thofe flaves I was 
 one. We were to go by the coaft of Sohmoea, at 
 the diftance of one and a half day's journey from 
 the town, and there fearch for ihell-fifh. This talk 
 was a very hazardous one ; as, in collecting the 
 {Jiell-fifli, we were often fathoms deep in the mud* 
 and were in danger of being fwallowed up by it. 
 Our feet too were apt to be bitten and torn by the 
 tortoifes and other creatures in fearch of their food 
 in the mud. To this danger I freely expofed my- 
 lelf, as it was what at any rate I could not avoid. 
 I, for my own {hare, procured thirty of thofe fhell- 
 
 * It divides the country at its eaftern confines from that of 
 Jago or Jomhage. It is a tract fix days' journey in length 
 from eaft to weft, and produces abundance of palm-trees and 
 
 ruit-trc:. 
 
 fifhes.
 
 tgfi TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 filhes *. Thefe I was to bring into the town ; 
 though I felt very fenfibly that I could not travel 
 far with them. The party to which I belonged 
 were gone half an hour's walk before me. I could 
 not follow with the activity neceflary to overtake 
 them. The foldiers* for this reafon, beat me with 
 their leathern thongs fo long and fo feverely, that 
 I at laft fank to the ground, and the blood gufhed 
 from my mouth. Even in this lituation I found 
 no pity, but was urged to rife and proceed with 
 my burden. To proceed was, however, to me im- 
 poflible. This fome of my unfortunate compa- 
 nions faw ; upon which they relieved me by divid- 
 ing my burthen amongft them. I exerted myfelf 
 then to the utmoft, and at laft with great difficulty 
 reached the town. The overfeer informed the 
 King of the great quantity of fliell-fifli which we 
 had brought ; adding farther that three of the men 
 were in danger of lofing their feet, and that the 
 new flave, meaning me, had fallen down under his 
 
 * Thefe {hell-fiflies ?.rc round, and when of the full fixe, as 
 large as a common table plate. They have a gre^nifh hue, 
 and contain pearls which are not much regarded. The 
 fhells are ufed as elegant dimes for the table ; they receive a 
 polifh- with {lories that greatly improves their appearance : the 
 flcftiy fubftance within, is white but very hard, and when it i? 
 to be dreiTcd,is beaten and minced with an inftrurrtfcc* of wood. 
 At the Cape this fpecies of fliell-fifli was named Klepp Kijcbcn. 
 
 burthen*
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 289 
 
 burthen, and could not bring it home. Of the 
 cudgelling which I had been obliged to bear, he 
 faid not a word. 
 
 As loon as the King heard this account, he or- 
 dered that I fhould be brought to him, but it re- 
 quired time to wafh the blood away, witli which 
 I was covered from head to foot, and they repre- 
 fented to him that I was again ill, and not in a fitua- 
 tion to appear before him. At day -break the 
 Evanga came to me to enquire after my health. I 
 gave him four guilders, and requefted him to pro- 
 cure from the King my liberty. He went away, 
 and in a fhort time after fent one of the King's 
 fervants to fetch me, and as foon as I made my ap- 
 pearance in the King's prefence, the following dia- 
 logue took place : 
 
 King. What do you want ? 
 
 Anfwer. I want nothing but my liberty, and for 
 this I humbly petition you. 
 
 K. As you are not ill, why did you not come 
 yefterday evening, when I fent for you ? 
 
 A. I knew nothing of the order. 
 
 K. I was told that you had a fpitting of blood, 
 and on that account could not come to me ? 
 
 A. That is true. Your inhuman fubjects have 
 treated me worfe than a beaft, as you mall fee this 
 inftant. Here I threw my cloak off, and fhewed 
 
 U him
 
 29O TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 him the wounds and bruifes over my whole 
 body. 
 
 K. You probably deferved fuch a punifliment ? 
 
 A. Hear me, I befeech you, and then judge 
 whether I deferved it. They laid upon my back 
 thirty bags of fhells, when the others carried only 
 from twelve to fifteen bags. 
 
 K. That was your punifliment,. for not being 
 more obedient in my fervice, when you were a free 
 fervant. 
 
 A, My refolution was never to tranigrcfe your 
 orders ; your Evanga made me tranfgrefs them. 
 
 K. The Evanga has informed me of your dif- 
 obedience, and defcribed to me your licentiouf- 
 nefs. 
 
 A . I have not been licentious. I wifhed to fol- 
 low your commands punctually, but the Evanga 
 prevented me. 
 
 I now related to him every circumftance, en- 
 treated him to reftore me to my liberty, repre- 
 fenting to him that he had no right to make me 
 a flave, fmce I was a foreigner, who wifhed only 
 to travel through his country, and made no claims 
 on the rights of hofpitality, but was willing to pay 
 for all my want^. I begged alio to pay him for 
 every thing that he had done for me when I was 
 his fervant. The officers who flood by looked on 
 me with aitonimment, and fcemed to cxprefs their 
 
 dif-
 
 Interior of Africa. 291 
 
 diipleafure at the freedom of my language, but the 
 Evanga felt himfelf particularly offended. He 
 here reprefented to the King that I was a liar, that 
 I had fpoken very little that was true, and that it 
 .would be better to exchange me for a flave in ibmc 
 other neighbourhood. His advice was taken ; but it 
 was determined that I mould fir ft be fent in queft of 
 elephants* teeth. On the following day the journey 
 took place ; but before we fet off 1 received a dozen 
 lafhes, ordered, as I afterwards learned, by the 
 Evanga, and a charge was given to our com- 
 mander to keep a ftric~t eye over me. 
 
 On the 1 2th of October we departed from Ma- 
 lemba, and on the third day after reached the place 
 where we were to encamp, by a narrow river, 
 probably an arm of the river Bambo, between two 
 chains of hills bending to the north-eaft. On the 
 firft three days we did not get a fingle tooth, and 
 on the fourth encamped farther to the eaft in the 
 woods. On the fifth day we found three teeth, 
 but not without fome rifque, as the elephants were 
 ftill in that neighbourhood. On the 19th we 
 retired under the mountains, and encamped over 
 againft the village of Wakat*. About mid-day 
 
 * This village contains about twentv huts, and is the lad on 
 the eaftern border of this country. 
 
 U 2 our
 
 292 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 our leader feparated us into three parties, to beat 
 about the thickets ; and with a flave and three fol- 
 diers I went on the right wing towards the bor- 
 ders. About evening we found a tooth, weighing 
 nearly fixty pounds, with which we returned back, 
 and arrived at our camp about midnight. The 
 next day was a day of reft. On die 2 2d we went 
 out again as before in fmall parties, and I proceed- 
 ed with my old comrades to our former polls. 
 After a march of fome leagues wc hurried towards 
 the north-eaft,but found nothing, though wckept 
 up the fearch till evening. Determined to return 
 that night to the camp, we fnft fat down among 
 the buihes. to eat a few handsful of millet. The 
 foldiers, as they were tired, and the camp was 
 nearly three leagues off, refolved now to pals the 
 night in this place, and we gathered fome flicks 
 to make a fire; but one of our comrades, who had 
 bem exploring our fituation, prevented us on his 
 return, by faying, that he had feen a light not far 
 from us, and that it would be better for us not to 
 light a fire, left we fhould be difcovercd. It was 
 probable that the Jagans *, on whofe borders we 
 
 f* W hcthtr tbefr are the Jaggas placed in fame geographical 
 -works in the kingdom at Monoeinugi, 1 cannot afcertain ; but 
 f his I maintain, that there are no Jaggas fid>je.& to the King of 
 tigiJ 
 
 were
 
 INTERIOR or AFRICA. 293 
 
 were tying, had made this fire, and were come hi- 
 ther in fcarch of elephants' teeth. I gathered aheap 
 of ruihy grafs, flung myfelf upon it, and pretended 
 to fail aOeep. For about half an hour my com- 
 rades chatted together, refpccHng the fire which 
 had been ken, and then compofed themfelves for 
 fleep. 1 refted quiet about two hours, then got 
 vent about thirty fteps off under pretence of 
 neceffary occafions, and as no one was looking 
 after me, and I had reafon to believe that my com- 
 rades were uileep, I doubled my pace towards the. 
 fpot where the lire was burning. I did not reach 
 the heights till day-break, and found nobody by 
 the fire, though the allies were ftill glowing. 
 Around were the traces of footfteps, which I fol- 
 lowed, and after an hour's walk through a thicket, 
 I faw at laft three men armed with javelins and 
 hunting fpears. I ftopped and called out to them, 
 Mara, mah, jakoho (my friends, where am I ?). 
 They ran to me inftantly, and afked me whence I 
 came, and whither I was going ? I gave a fhort ac- 
 count of my journey from the beginning, but de- 
 fcribed to them circumftantiaiiy the mifery and 
 want under which I had lately laboured. I was 
 cmeilioned where the men were who were on the 
 fearch for elephants' teeth, what was their ftrength, 
 and with what arms they were provided. I gave 
 them accurate intelligence, and they conducted 
 
 U 3 me
 
 294 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 mc after a good hour's march farther into the 
 wood to their village, which is fituated in it, and 
 confifts of eighty huts. Here I was defired to re- 
 peat again to the Majka (or head man) what I had 
 already related, who confidered the dignity of his 
 nation as infulted, by another nation pretending 
 to hunt and look for teeth on his borders. He 
 inftantly ordered every one to feize his arms, and 
 to attack the enemy ; but they came too late, for 
 as foon as I was miffed my comrades probably com 
 je&ured that I mould betray their encampment. 
 
 CHAP.
 
 INTERIOR OP. AFRICA. 295 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 Hiftory and Defcriptlon of the Jagans, their Manners, 
 Cufloms, national Character Defcription of the 
 War-buffaloes, and Water-bottles mode of Elephants* 
 
 Entrails Journey over the Akaji Mountains, 
 
 through the City of Groh, by the frontier Village 
 Wahhala, in the Territory of Mugari (Minto) 
 Defcription of it and its Inhabitants Journey 
 through the thick Wood of a mountainous Country, to 
 the Village Sowohm Hijlory and Defcription of the 
 Kingdom ofMaJfiand Mamham the Metropolis-The 
 little Hamlets, Muhotahu, whofe Inhabitants fubjifi 
 by Robbery Journey through the Villages, Doemoh, 
 Bathym, and Haka, to the Mathians Defcription 
 of this Nation Kingdom of Jukkodego, or Monoe- 
 mugi, its Situation, Limits, Hiflory, and Defcrip- 
 tion Two different Origins of its Inhabitants 
 Form of Government, Religion, Manners, and Cuf- 
 toms Journey over Awakana, the Lake and City 
 of Zambre Defcription of this City and its Royal 
 Palace Character of the King Drefs of the Offi- 
 cers The Author repairs a Watch for the King, 
 is taken into Favour, and Travels with him to the 
 Lake of Zambre Improvement of MapsDcpar- 
 
 V 4 tUTQ
 
 296 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 ture from Zambre The Author goes over the Ak- 
 maho Mountains, through Serra, Mehar and Jel- 
 loh, Etahaniy Mujs, Himogu, Mofaku and Gohamy, 
 over the Border Mountains, through Paatam and 
 Kohlogom, the lajl Village in this Kingdom. 
 
 THE Jagans, a fmall and poor nation, reiide 
 chiefly in the forefts, and live on fruits and 
 roots. The chacc produces little, for the tigers 
 are too numerous to permit other animals to 
 tlirive, and elephants and tigers only are found in 
 abundance ; for the teeth of the former javelins 
 and hunting fpears are exchanged. The track of 
 land, poflened by this nation, belongs properly to 
 Maleinba ; but having obtained their liberty they 
 poffefs eight villages fo fituated, that the inha- 
 bitants can affemble in a day in one place. Each 
 village has its head-man, chofen from the braveft 
 of the villagers. I could gain no intelligence con- 
 cerning the origin of this nation, but it Teems not 
 improbable that they fprung from the Congoans. 
 The number of men capable of bearing arms 
 amounts, as they told mc, to a thoufand perfons, 
 and they pride themfelves much on the bravery of 
 their nation. The King of Cacongo, who calls 
 himfelf the protector and fovereign of the Jagans, 
 cannot depend on the afliftance of this nation, un- 
 lefs he gives them proofs of his efleem ; for they 
 
 will
 
 INTERIOR OS AFRICA. 297 
 
 will not receive from him unlimited commands. 
 He has indeed, in his own kingdom, far more 
 warriors, yet he can do but little injury to thin 
 fmall nation from its lituation on mountains, ia 
 woods, and diilicult panes. They are accuied of 
 being much addicted to robbery, and even canni- 
 balifm ; but I faw not the leaft trace of either, 
 and even here it was told me, that their neigh- 
 bours, the Monomotapans, plundered whatever 
 they could, and ate the flefh of their prifoners. 
 Hoipitality is univerfal : the itranger is prefented 
 with the befl which the country affords ; and the 
 traveller who trails himfelf to the protection of 
 this nation may be allured that they will never do 
 him an injury. 
 
 They acknowledge neither king nor prieft, 
 leading a life of fimplicity, and according to na- 
 ture. If water fails in any part they move north- 
 wards, particularly to an arm of the river Bambo, 
 which Hows all the year. The children grow up 
 without any initruction, and their education is 
 left entirely to themfelves. The employment of 
 the men, the chace excepted, is very infignificant ; 
 for the women gather the wood, keep up the fire, 
 and collect the fruit. Neither mats nor ihirts 
 are made here ; their beds are of flraw, and they 
 go entirely naked. Moil of them lie very often 
 
 the
 
 298 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 1 
 
 the whole day, through inactivity, on their 
 couches ; and I can confidently auert, that they 
 are the lazieft people of all Africa. I never faw a 
 religious ceremony here, nor could I learn that 
 any were obferved. 
 
 
 The Chief begged me to ftay with him as long 
 as I mould remain here ; he ufed to fay, " Stay 
 ftranger ; whilft you are here it goes well with 
 us, and you will never hunger." The laft circum- 
 ftance was not exactly true ; for in the very hot 
 weather they fcarcely eat any thing, but ftretch 
 themfelves out on their ftraw and indulge in 
 lazinefs ; at fuch times I was obliged to go in 
 fearch of fruit and roots for myfelf ; and, that I 
 might not equal them in idlenefs, I made an ac- 
 quaintance with a young woman who carved 
 figures on whitened bones. Thefe bones fhe co- 
 vered firft with moiftened fand, which was ex- 
 pofed to the heat of the fun ; after this they were 
 fcraped, and fhe carved on them with ftones all 
 forts of figures. She worked with fuch difpatch 
 and dexterity, that many a moderate artift would 
 perhaps find it difficult to furpafs her figures. 
 The fexual connection is never denied here to 
 any one, for it is coniidered as a natural want 
 which no one mould oppofe. I remained with 
 this good tempered people to the end of the year^ 
 
 went
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 29<> 
 
 went fometimes with them againft their enemies, 
 and my fhare of the plunder was two war-buf- 
 faloes * and a half, which were killed for our fef- 
 tive dinner, in honour of the victory. My refo- 
 lution to proceed on my journey affected mod of 
 the inhabitants of the village with ibrrow ; and 
 when I requefted their alTrftance to put me on the 
 right road to the kingdom of Maili, the greater 
 part offered me their fervices to conduct me to 
 their borders. They gave me alfo dried roots 
 and a water-bottle f for my journey. 
 
 On 
 
 * I fhould have defcribed thefe buffaloes before. They are 
 prepared for their deftination very early ; their horns are fplit 
 jn many places, and afterwards bent in various directions, fo 
 as to give the animal a terrible appearance. They are fo well 
 taught, that on being fpurred on by the man, who either tits 
 on their back or goes behind them, with a fharp-pointed ftick, 
 they rufh forwards with the utmofr, fpeed. In this manner 
 they are urged on againft the enemy, where they do infinite 
 mifchief, by tolling about with their many ended horns every 
 thing that comes in their way. In general a piece of elephant's 
 fkin doubled is hung on their head and breaft, partly that they 
 may not receive fo much huit from javelins, and partly that 
 they may not be terrified by the number and attacks of the 
 enemy. 
 
 I Thefe bottles are. made from the entrails of elephants, 
 rubbed in the afhes, and dried in the fun. They ferve for wa- 
 ter veffels, particularly on journies; when filled they are tied 
 round the body, and to make the water drink frefh, they are 
 
 hun
 
 3<> 
 
 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 On the 2d of December, 1786, I fet off with 
 two guides, and foon reached Tomoh, a village 
 with about iixty huts, where we breakfafted, and 
 then afcended the Akafi mountain. x\t mid-day 
 we came to Groh, which might be called a town, 
 as it contains three hundred huts, in general well 
 conftructed, and is fituated on a fine fruitful 
 plain. I ftaid here that day, as I wifhed to fpend 
 as much time as poflible with my guides, who 
 were here to take leave of me. The Majka gave 
 us a good lodging, and collected every thing 
 eatable in his hut for us. The next morning, as 
 foon as my guides had fet oft for their homes, I 
 proceeded on my journey, through a wilderness 
 three leagues in length, the thickeft that I had 
 hitherto fcen : many times I was obliged to creep 
 for a hundred paces or more under bufhes clofely 
 grown together, and to crawl fometimes with 
 my whole length on the ground. In five hour's 
 time I came to Mahhala, the border village, on a 
 fmall ftream, which, flowing from eaft to weft, 
 ruflies down a long chain of mountains, empties 
 itfelf in the lake above-mentioned, Sohmoja. The 
 village contains between fixty and feventy huts, 
 
 hung up in the air between two (licks or trees, that the water 
 may be cooled. Sach a bottle is of great uie to a traveller, 
 who can always thus procure himfelf a cool draught. 
 
 lies
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 30I 
 
 lies in a grove on an eminence, and has moft 
 beautiful fruit-trees, particularly palm-trees, and 
 in its neighbourhood fome tamarind trees. Of 
 the laft the inhabitants do not know how to make 
 
 any ufc. 
 
 My hoft here, the chief of the village, was a 
 furly, and as it feems a covetous fellow ; he. gave 
 me fome water and plums, and threw down be- 
 fore his hut a bundle of ftraw for my night's 
 lodging. Unluckily in the night a violent thun- 
 der-ftorm came on, accompanied with a deluge of 
 rain. My hoft was fo vexed that he fcarcely 
 knew what to do ; but as I was wetted to the 
 Ikin, he let me come into his hut. At day -break 
 1 fet off, travelled eaftward through the wood, 
 and came at laft to the above-mentioned chain of 
 mountains on the borders of the territory of Mu- 
 gari, which the people of the country call Minto.* 
 
 Minto is a fmall country, thinly inhabited : the 
 pcqple are ill-mannered, giving themfelves little 
 concern about the traveller whofe language they 
 
 * Their nation is placed by all geographical writers too far 
 to the north ; for though they lead a roving life, the track of 
 hind over which they wander, is affuredly not three hundred 
 German miles in length in the two kingdom*. 
 
 do
 
 30* 
 
 TRAVELS IN Tilt 
 
 do not underftand, or they will treat him ill From 
 the filly prejudice, that he who fpeaks differently 
 from themfelves means to affront them. They 
 are little and dilagrecable in their perfons, in no 
 efteem with and ill-treated by their neighbours, 
 the above-mentioned nation, and by the Maflians. 
 Little as they are, they are the molt lkilful of all 
 the neighbouring nations in the chace of elephants, 
 by whofe Ikins and teeth they procure their liveli- 
 hood. The collective number of inhabitants does 
 not amount to more than three thoufand, of whom 
 the greater part live in the mountains in holes, fo 
 furrounded by bufhes, that a traveller my pafs a 
 dozen times without feeing them. Strangers who 
 can converfe with the inhabitants, and underftand 
 the language of the country, are kindly received 
 and treated with hofpitality. Though their only 
 meat is the flefli of elephants, they underftand fo 
 many different methods of drefling it, with various 
 kinds of herbs, that it is excellent food. They cut 
 it, for example, into thin pieces, which they lay in 
 brine, rubbing in afterwards fait and herbs : they 
 arc left in this manner for fome days, and then 
 hung up for fome time in the air, after which they 
 are placed on the fire and dreffed flowly, and tafte 
 better than our Weftphalia hams. A part only of 
 the mountain is theirs, the reft belongs to the Maf- 
 lians. Their language is different from that of both 
 
 the
 
 INTJERiOR OF AFRICA. 3QJ 
 
 the neighbouring nations, by whom theirs is nut 
 underftood, yet they themfelves underfland the 
 language of both countries. They have a dock 
 head, flat nofe, large eyes, pouting lips, and flvarp 
 teeth, whofe points they fharpen flill more with 
 ftones. Their complexion inclines more to the 
 yellow than to the black, and they burn all forts o 
 figures into their foreheads and cheeks. They go 
 entirely naked, and are both very lazy and very 
 lafdvious. Their whole land may be travelled over 
 in half a day. 
 
 On the 5th, 6th, and 7th, I had a very bad path 
 through forefts and over mountains, law neither 
 villages nor men, and fuffered terribly from thirft. 
 Nature provided me with food, for here are carob 
 trees in great pienty. There is alfo abundance of 
 game, particularly chamois and wild boars ; of 
 which the latter gave me great anxiety, and I ef- 
 caped from their attacks by taking fpeedy flight and 
 climbing the trees. I found a boar's fang eight 
 inches long and three inches thick, which would 
 be taken by every one for moft beautiful ivory. 
 On the 7th towards evening I reached Sowohm, a 
 village very ill built, and confuting of thirty huts, 
 lying in a row from north to eaft between fome 
 fmall eminences. Here the inhabitants were very 
 curious j for they affembled on my arrival and 
 
 ftepped
 
 434 TRAVELS IN TKK 
 
 ftepped round me, fomc feeling my mouth, others 
 handling my head, and I was obliged to fubmit, 
 like a ftrange animal, to their examinations. I did 
 not underftand a fingle word of their language, 
 but mine was underftood by fome of them. Not 
 one of thefe people probably had fecn white men, 
 which may eafily be conceived, fincc the many 
 mountains and almoft impenetrable woods prohi- 
 bited accefs to them. I mould think it an un- 
 dertaking, which would amply be repaid, to form 
 a commercial company to explore this nation, in 
 whofc mountains in all probability great treafures 
 are hidden. They could make no refinance, for 
 they are much too weak ; and befides,, by good 
 treatment they might eafily be managed. Skin* 
 and ivory would be the chief articles, which might 
 be conveyed in ilx days in fmall veffels down the 
 river Zambcce, to the former Portugueze fort St. 
 Martial, and thence other wares might be carried 
 back in return. 
 
 ^he Mumkaham, the prefent King, was elected 
 in the year 1783. Mafli, the King from whom 
 the nation takes its name, has been dead thefe fifty 
 years, and iince him fourteen Kings have held the 
 reigns of government. The King is as poor as any 
 of the inhabitants ; his pre-eminence confifts in de- 
 claring war and peace, and he is the fupreme in 
 
 leading
 
 INtERlbk OF AFRtfcA. 305 
 
 leading his fubjects in the field. They have neither 
 priefts nor under officers. In the whole country, 
 which is about fix days journey. long and four 
 wide, there is not a fingle town, but feveral villages 
 and two hamlets, of which the one called Mamham - 9 
 containing about four hundred miferable huts, is 
 the royal refidence ; the other, called Muhokahu, 
 h finaller. Every moon a market is held at Mam- 
 ham, which is two days journey from the lake 
 of Mamre, whither numbers come from all the 
 country, partly for the fake of trading, and partly 
 to obtain from the King an audience, which is 
 given only on thofe days, and in the open market- 
 place. Muhokahu is fituated in the northern part 
 of the country, on an arm of the river Zambece. 
 The villages are very ill built, and the houfes 
 thatched with ftraw. In war this nation cannot 
 bring fo many men into the field as many other 
 nations ; they have no weapons of iron, but in 
 their ftead wooden war axes and javelins, which 
 they arm at the point with bone. Here I again 
 found fheep, which are highly prized ; and, that 
 they may not fall a prey to the tygers, they are 
 taken at night into the huts. Hoftile excurfions 
 are made even from this country, but only to- 
 wards the north, againft the Melekgos and the 
 Wahyoys^ who are their neighbours in that 
 Quarter. 
 
 X With
 
 306 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 With their neighbours on the eaft-fide, the Mal- 
 hihas, and Halo^rcs, who are Hkewife robbers, 
 they maintain a good underllanding. Of their 
 manners, cufloms, &c. I fhall fpeak in describing 
 thofe of other nations, who in thefe particulars 
 agree with them. 
 
 On my arrival at Sowohm, I was taken before 
 the judge of the place, an old man with grey hairs. 
 None but old men are appointed to the functions 
 of judges. After thofe had departed who came out" 
 of curiolity to gaze at me, or to touch me with their 
 hand?, I was entertained in the judge's houfe 
 with a mefs of flour and water, and was then di- 
 rected to reft for the night on a bundle of ftraw 
 that was laid in a corner. Having had little lleep 
 for the laft three days, I threw myfelf down on 
 the ftraw and flept foundry. Towards noon I 
 awoke, with a burning and itching all over my 
 body ; and obferving my fkin, I faw with furprize 
 that it was covered with red fpots. Upon exa- 
 mining the place on which I had flept, I found that 
 it fwarmed with fand-lice *. I . fhevved my old 
 
 * Thefe infc&s arc white, and rather larger in fizc than our 
 common ph'unrcs. They depodt their eggs in the fun ; and 
 thefe are within four and twenty hours hatched by the heat. 
 When the human body is bitten by them, the fores arc anoint- 
 ed with the fat fram the foot of the elephant. 
 
 holt
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 307 
 
 hoft what I had fuffcred ; he laughed, gave me a 
 tortoife-fhcll containing fat, and bade me anoint 
 myfelf. As I took it, the buffalo's paunch in which 
 I kept my money and gold-dull, and which I had 
 fattened under my arm, dropped to the ground. I 
 took it up as fail as poiliblc, but not without being 
 obferved by the old man. Though very old and 
 feeble, he was as active and nimble as any youth r 
 and he fprang to fnatch it from me. I turned my- 
 felf about, and ftepping quickly to the door, hid 
 it in fome ftraw. I then held in my hand fome 
 fliells which I had about me, and coming in pre^ 
 tended that thofe were what I had before dropped 
 on the ground. He matched. at thefe; and I cafily 
 fuffcred him to take them, that he might not fuf- 
 pecl: mc to poifefs any thing of greater value. I 
 remained all day within the hut, in order to avoid 
 being troubled by the people, who crowded to fee 
 me. The old man faw that I had not quite ^reco- 
 vered from my fatigue, and that I had ftill a num- 
 ber of fores on my body : he therefore would 
 not allow me to be troubled by the curiofity of his 
 neighbours. And though I gave him but twenty 
 fhells for my entertainment, he believed that thofe 
 were all I had, and treated me with all poiTible 
 kindnefs, giving me a cup of milk with two hand- 
 fuls of flour, by which I was greatly refrefhed. 
 JPleafed with this apparent honefty and kindnefs,! 
 
 X 2 took
 
 308 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 took out a guilder and gave it to him. Overjoyed 
 at this, he went out to his neighbours. I was much 
 alarmed in his ablence, left he mould have gone to 
 confult wilh them about plundering me. He re- 
 turned ; and I then hinted to him my fufpicions 
 with rcipect to his behaviour : but he mailed, and 
 bade me lay afide all fear. It however happened as 
 I had fufpected. On the following night, while I 
 was on my couch afleep, I fuddenly felt my mantle 
 pulled from about me. I would have cried out ; 
 but one of the robbers preffed my breaft with his 
 knee, and I was obliged to be quiet. I mould pro- 
 bably have been ftrangled, if it had not been for 
 the old man, whom my groans awakened, and 
 who by his clamours drove away the thieves. I 
 lay half dead ; and the old man ftood trembling 
 by my fide. A number of other perfons hearing 
 his cries, came running into the hut, and afked 
 what had happened? The old man told them what 
 he thought proper, and fhewed them where the 
 thieves had made their way into his hut. It 
 was perceived that they had entered by a breach 
 which they had made in the back part. Four men 
 were fet as a guard round the cottage till the next 
 morning. When morning came, ftricl fearch was 
 made to find the thieves j I know not with what 
 iucceis. If difcovered, they probably bribed the 
 old man who was judge to let them off with impu- 
 nity.
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 309 
 
 nity. I was glad to have thus favcd my money 
 and my life; and though fick and feeble, fet out at 
 mid-day, and proceeded on my journey. My good 
 old hod accompanied me, for an hour's walk, on 
 the way, and then with many kind wifhes bade 
 me farewell. I quickened my pace, and in order 
 to afcertain whether I had any reafons for further 
 iiifpicion, I afcended a hill, but could fee no perfon 
 in purfuit of me. In my anxiety and alarm, I had 
 brought neither victuals nor water ; and here was 
 neither fruit nor fpring. I was tormented with 
 thirit, and had no means to allay it. At laft, I put 
 fome pebbles into my mouth, and purfued my way. 
 Towards evening I came to a pleafant plain, but 
 which was destitute of fruit and water. I fell to 
 the ground, overcome by faintnefs, and looked 
 for immediate death as an inevitable event. This 
 idea was too horrible to my imagination, to allow 
 me to fleep : I fprung up and tried to proceed. 
 Ere I had gone an huadred paces farther, I found 
 fome reeds in full growth. One of thefe I haftily 
 plucked, and chewed the lower part of it, which 
 though bitter to the tafle, refrefhed me exceed-, 
 ingly. Sleep now came upon me, I fell on the 
 ground, and ilept undifturbed till next morning, 
 I then renewed my journey over a defert of no 
 great extent, and by noon the following day reach- 
 ed the village of Kamolio. The heat was excdiive ; 
 
 X 3 and
 
 3IO TRAVilLS IN THE 
 
 and I found nobody out of doors. I however en- 
 tered the firft hut I came to, and afked for fome- 
 thihg to drink. No one aniwered me, nor made 
 me an offer of any thing ; but all feemed to be 
 greatly frightened at my appearance. I made trial 
 at fevcral huts with the like ill fuccefs. Once 
 more drawing afide the mats at the doors I call- 
 ed bitterly in all the different languages I could 
 think of, Give me water ! give me water ! A 
 young man at laft came out, and ^ccofting me 
 with great civility, by figns, aiked me to come 
 nearer. I let him know - that I wanted fome- 
 thing to drink. He comprehended my mean- 
 ing, uttered a few words which were to me unin- 
 telligible, and within a very few minutes prefented 
 me with fome flour and water. The neighbours 
 hearing the noife, looked out of their huts to fee 
 what was the matter, and obferving me, gathered 
 about me. Thefe by -(landers fhewed great com- 
 panion for me : one brought milk, another meal, 
 others fruits and roots, for my refrefhment. Some 
 took me into their huts, in which there were 
 rank naufeous fmells too ftrong for my fenfes ; fo 
 that I returned to reft myfelf out of doors. I then 
 continued my journey to the north-caft, towards 
 the place of the King's refidence. But before fet- 
 ting out, I procured a leathern bottle, and took it 
 with me full of frefh water. Had I not been fo 
 
 feeble,
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA.. 3 1 '1 
 
 feeble, I might have reached Ahmigo in fix hours ; 
 but was obliged to pafs the night in a forcft, in con- 
 ftant alarm on account of the danger from the 
 wolves, tygers, lions, and buffaloes with which it 
 was inhabited. 
 
 On the nth I proceeded among low buflies, and 
 over ileep hills, and after 1 had walked for ibme 
 hours, came to a beautiful plain, in which, to my 
 great joy, I perceived a fpring of water bubbling 
 up among the lands of the foil. Here, therefore, 
 I refted about an hour and refeefhed myfelf. After 
 my thirft was allayed, 1 began to feel the gnawings 
 of hunger to fuch a degree, that I even fainted 
 and fell as I attempted to rife, and proceed on 
 my journey. When I was fomewhat recovered, 
 I looked about for traces of human footfleps, 
 but could perceive none. I went on therefore 
 in a very melancholy mood toward the north, 
 when I faw before me a fmall hill. Having reached 
 it, I fought about for fruit, but could find none : 
 and the roots of the plants growing on it were not 
 lit to be eaten. I found at laft a great land-tor- 
 toife ; and this, though I had no means of kind- 
 ling a fire, I took on my back and carried with 
 me. After I had t^one on for another hour, I re- 
 folved, in the extremity of my hunger, to kill st 
 and devour it raw. Juft then I perceived behind 
 X 4 me
 
 312 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 me a troop of elephants. This made me to forget 
 at once both my thirft and hunger , and I took to 
 flight in all hafte. Towards evening I difcovered 
 a path traced by human footfteps, in which, though 
 it was now dark, I walked on with all my ftrength, 
 I came at laft to a few cottages, where feeing none 
 of the inhabitants, I late me down on the fand be- 
 fore that which I firft came to, waiting till fome 
 perfon mould appear. At length came an old wo- 
 man, who, after gazing on me a few moments, 
 uttered fome words in a low voice, which brought 
 about me to the number of twenty young men 
 and old. I afked them for food ; but they under- 
 ftood me not. I then ufed nVns to let them know 
 
 o 
 
 what I wanted. They understood my. meaning, 
 and brought me feme flefh and water. The flefh 
 had, however, fo noifome a fmell, that but for my 
 extreme hunger I could not have tailed it. I then 
 roafted my tortoife on the fire where thefe people 
 were preparing their evening meal, ate a part of it, 
 and laid me down to reft on a wolf's hide which 
 they fprcad for me. In the morning I ate the re- 
 mains of my tortoife; and having procured from 
 thpfe good people another bottle of water, again 
 proceeded on my journey. By noon I reached 
 Muhotahu. It is a market-town, fituate on a fmall 
 hill, and confifts of an hundred and iixty houfes 
 of very poor appearance. It Hands, however, on 
 
 an.
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 313 
 
 an arm of the river Zambece, in a fertile territory. 
 The cottages Hand in three rows ; and in the 
 middle is a fort of temple. Here were three 
 old men who held the diitinction of being Galy- 
 gos of the place. Thefe men, however, did not 
 entertain ftrangers, who were left to look out for a 
 place of hofpitable reception for themfelves. A 
 young man took me to his hut, and there treated 
 me with great kindnefs. I exceedingly regretted 
 my inability to make anfwer to the queftions of 
 thefe good people, in a language that they might 
 underfland. 
 
 On the 13th I continued my journey towards 
 the country of the Melekgohs and Mahyhoys, who 
 are reprcfented as being very barbarous and cruel 
 nations. At noon I reached the village of Domoh, 
 where, in a commodious hut, I refted for feveral 
 hours. Then, through a fertile country, by a way 
 that was fhaded by trees, but without feeing any 
 wild animals, I travelled on to Bathym. There 
 I paired the night ; but, not putting confidence in 
 the people, could not ileep. 
 
 On the 1 4th and 1 5th I travelled on, by a rugged 
 road, over rocky hills, through Hata, a mean vil- 
 lage. On the 15th, towards evening, I entered a 
 plain forming the boundary of the diftrict. I met 
 
 here
 
 314 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 here with two of the people of Mathiana gather- 
 ing wood ; but at the fight of me they fled away. 
 Ihafteited after them, and within half an hour 
 reached the village in which they lived. It ccm- 
 fifts of about lixty cottages, built in a circular ar- 
 rangement, and inclofed by a fmall wall, within 
 which the inhabitants have introduced water from 
 a mountain-fnring, which is fomewhat brackifh. 
 To hinder this water from being heated by the 
 rays of the fun, they made it with a thatching 
 of reeds, forming a roof over the wall. 
 
 The inhabitants of the territory of Mathiana 
 are in all about eight thoufand fouls. Their 
 country is in length equal to a journey of two 
 d:r- s and a half, and is accounted as part of 
 the kingdom of Maffi. They fupport theirs 
 felves by rapine, and are often engaged in enter- 
 prizes of pillage on the coaft. They are low in 
 Itature, but flout, with large eyes, thick fnubbed 
 nofes, and thick lips. Their bodies are of a dark 
 copper-colour.- They keep their hair long, and go 
 naked. The whole nation have but one Chief, 
 who is called Kilihotonca, is the judge in all dif- 
 ferences, and alfo executes the functions of their 
 pricit. '1 hefe people arc active and indubious. 
 A fourth p^rt of them go out upon their military 
 er.Ljrprizes j another fourth part go a hunting; 
 
 and
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 31$ 
 
 and the reft are ufefully employed at home in 
 their villages. I few here fome fine cattle, which 
 I learned had been taken as booty from other na- 
 tions. Travellers, however, are not plundered or 
 otherwife injured, but are treated with kindnefs 
 andhofpitality by thefe people. Their language has 
 a great refemblance to that which is fpoken on the 
 coaft of Congo. When I entered the village, feve- 
 ral of the inhabitants came up with clubs in their 
 hands, and called to me in a loud voice. I allow- 
 ed them to come clofe to me; and then, in the 
 dialect, of Conor), informed them that I was a 
 ftranger and their friend, and wanted nothing but 
 refreshment and a night's lodging. An old man 
 drawing: near, viewed me with a keen eve, and 
 i]i[ c \ " If you be not a Chriftian, come with us." 
 I followed without reply, and was conducted to 
 his hut, where he feated me befide himfelf on a 
 bundle of reeds, and afked the particulars of 
 my travels. To what I faid he liftened with 
 attention, then bade them give me fome meal and 
 Water. Thofe who Hood around were furprized 
 to fee with what eagernefs I devoured what was 
 given me, and faid to one another He mufi have. 
 been long without food ! but offered me nothing 
 more. The old man afked if I had no prefent to 
 give him ; but I put him off till next morning, 
 laying, that I wifhed to go to fleep. He then 
 
 difmiffed
 
 31 6 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 difmuTed the reft to their own dwellings, and 
 afligned me a place in his hut, where I could fleep 
 quietly. In the morning I privately took a guil- 
 der out of my purie, and gave it to the old man 
 by whom I had been thus entertained. He thank- 
 ed me for it, taking both my hands and fhaking 
 them. At my departure he gave me a handful of 
 meal, and fet me on my way. I travelled eaft-. 
 ward, croffed over a hill to a village confiding of 
 forty huts, where I procured a few handfuls of 
 meal, and then continued my journey. On my 
 right and left, however', I faw other villages, 
 which, as it was not evening, and as I had fufti- 
 cicnt fupplies of meal and water, I did not choofe 
 to viilt. This I found reafon to repent of when 
 it began to grow dark, and I faw no more habi- 
 tations to which I might retire for the night. I 
 had then no refource but to pafs the night in 
 the open air, expofed to the attack of whatever 
 beafts of prey might be around. Though the 
 moon did not fhine bright, yet I renewed my 
 journey before the morning, and by funrrife came 
 to a hamlet of fixteen cottages. At the diftance 
 of twenty paces from thefe dwellings, as I faw 
 nobody near them, I fat myfelf down, to wait till 
 the inhabitants fhould come out. I fell afleep. 
 When i awoke, I found myfelf in a cottage, and 
 T>bund.- - 1 was ftruck with terror, and felt for my 
 
 puife,
 
 INTtRIOR OF AFRICA. 317 
 
 purfe, which was fafe under my arm. I then 
 looked around the cottage within which I was 
 confined, but faw in it no men, nor any thing 
 in any degree remarkable. I then lay ftill and 
 llept till evening. Awaking, I faw in a fmall re- 
 cefs near me, a female. I ftood up and aiked her 
 for fome water, which me readily gave me. I 
 next afked her for food, and was anfwered, that 
 I mould have it when her rather returned from 
 hunting. I then alked, how I had come into the 
 hut, and the girl told me, that her father and bro- 
 ther had brought me in, that I might not be feized 
 by the tygers,* which came often to the very 
 doors of their cottages. The father and brother 
 coming in foon after, welcomed me kindly, and 
 gave me fleih, milk, and meal. Although it was 
 now evening, I fate me down before the' hut to 
 gratify the curiofity of the people of the village ; 
 and after I had anfwered their enquiries, I was 
 rewarded with fleih, milk, and meal, which I 
 carefully took into the hut, to be there kept 
 for me. 
 
 * The tygers, imlefs provoked, feldom attack an European ; 
 the Africans, however, have great reafon to keep upon their 
 guard. Of this I faw forne inilances. The mod likely reafon 
 for tiic ..;:Ur.&ion is, that the Africans rub their bodies with 
 fat, the inaell of which attra&s the tygers. 
 
 On
 
 31 8 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 On the 21ft I went^on, with provisions for twd 
 days. By noon I came to an arm of the river 
 Zambece, on which ftood a few huts. I was not 
 tempted to halt long at this place, but paffed on 
 into the kingdom of Juhkodcgo, named in the 
 maps Monocmugi ; and after an hour's walk ar- 
 rived at the village of Awakana. The kingdom 
 of Juhkodego, , or Monoemugi, is from fouth to 
 north about feventeen day's journey in extent ; 
 from weft to eaft, about thirteen day's journey. It 
 is in figure a long fquare, on its eaft fide bor- 
 ders on Abyifinia : on the fouth fide, on the. 
 kingdom of Monomotapa ; on the weft, on the 
 kingdom of Maili ; and on the north, on the terri- 
 tory of King Majaphar (Mangas). The river Zam* 
 bece, which divides near the town of Juhkora, 
 into five arms, likewife interfects this territory, 
 and at the diftance of half a day's journey from 
 the town of Zambre is expanded into a great 
 lake, which is of the fame name as the town.. 
 This territory is interfecled by a double range of 
 mountains, extending from north to fouth, on 
 which are great forelts and wild beafts innume- 
 rable. Thefe mountains afford much faltpctre, 
 which is not however put to any important ufe 
 by the people of the country. On account of 
 the horrid heat, and the fandy nature of the foil, 
 little grafs grows here ; and the fruit trees which- 
 
 thrive
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 319 
 
 thrive well in moil other parts of Africa prove 
 here ftuntcd and barren. Water-melons, gourds, 
 Turkiih-corn, millet, and pcafe, the fruit of a 
 certain tree, are the chief produce of this dif- 
 tricl. Here are fifli, tortoifes, &c. in great abun- 
 dance, particularly in the lake already mentioned- 
 BufFaloes . and fheep are not bred in this coun-r 
 try, but are procured in exchange from the 
 people of Monomotapa, for hides, ivoiy, and 
 faltpetre. The inhabitants are of two different 
 races : iff. The Mifahomi, the old inhabitants, 
 diftinguifhed by wearing aprons of palm-leaves, 
 by .plaiting their hair, by living in willing fub- 
 miflion to their pricfts, and by marrying only 
 within their own community. 2d. The Jahko- 
 degi, or Monuemugiancfe, wiio go quite naked, 
 rarely covering even their nudities with a palm- 
 leaf, wear the hair long: and flowinz loofelv, have 
 fiat nofes, thick lips and fmall eyes. Both thefe 
 people and their neighbours, the Maifiancfe, are 
 accuifomed to fcratch on their cheeks a diverfity 
 of figures with the bones of fowls and Mies. Both 
 nations are of middle ftature, ufe the fame lan-r 
 guage, and excel as foldiers and hunters, but are 
 much given to floth, and often lounge in their huts 
 for days and nights together, without {lining to 
 do any thing. The repairing of the huts, and the 
 culture of the ground, is. left to the women. At 
 
 marriages
 
 $ZO TRAVELS IK THE 
 
 marriages, the pridts practife a number of otfc! 
 ceremonies, which they conclude with blefling the 
 young couple. It is accounted heinoufly criminal 
 for a man to part from his wife ; nor is this ever 
 allowed but in the cafe of barrennefs. A barren 
 wife may be abandoned to common prostitution ( 
 or fold or bartered aWay as a flave. Marriages 
 are celebrated in the following manner. When" 
 a young man has chofen a maid for his bride, he 
 goes to her parents and demands her, who do 
 not refufe him without the weightieft reafons; If 
 he obtain his bride, fhe does not leave the dwel- 
 ling of her parents, but muft work mats of reeds* 
 till the old people fix upon a place for his hut, 
 find wood and palm-leaves> and creel: the new 
 habitation. The bridegroom, meanwhile, is not 
 idle, but goes a hunting with his father. Againft 
 the day of marriage, which is ufually the fixth 
 after that on which the confent of the bride's 
 parents was obtained, he muft produce the fkin of 
 fbme beaft of prey killed by himfelf, and the car- 
 cafes of two deer for the marriagc-feaft. The 
 hide of the beaft of prey is hung upon the ncw^ 
 built hut : and the young man is henceforth ac- 
 knowledged to have attained to manhood, and to 
 have become fit to be a hulband, If in the firft 
 chace he fail to procure the hide of a beaft of prey* 
 then a new and more diftant day is fixed for the 
 
 wedding,
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 32 1, 
 
 wedding, and the young man goes a fecond.time 
 out a hunting. When the wedding-day. arrives, 
 the parents and friends of the young couple afTem- 
 ble at the new-built hut, make a lire in it, and roaft 
 the two deer whole. While this is doing, the 
 young couple muft, not be prefent, but muft go 
 to the prieft and abide with him till the flefh bq 
 roafted, when the guefts go to bring both them 
 and the prieft with fongs of joy to the new hut, 
 and before the fire. The prieft takes in his hand, 
 two ftalks of Turkifh corn, goes before the young 
 pair, and cries as loud as he can, all the guefts 
 joining him. In this manner they pafs three times 
 round the fire and the hut, then they ftand in a 
 circle round the fire, and the. prieft lays the two 
 ftalks of Turkifh corn on the fire till they be 
 roafted, then gives to the bride and bridegroom, 
 to each one of the ftalks, with moft of the grains 
 upon it ; the reft of the grains he diftributes to 
 the people Handing around. The corn is ufed to 
 reprefent the fruitful nefs of the marriage-bed- of 
 the young couple, who are to have as many chil- 
 dren as there remain grains on the ftalks which 
 they receive from the prieft. The diftribution of 
 the reft to the perfons around, is intended to fig- 
 nify, that to diftant pofterity they and their pro- 
 geny are to be as clofely united as the perfons 
 ftanding in the ring. The company now fit down, 
 
 Y and
 
 j22 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 and the roafted deer arc fet before the prieit, who 
 gives the hearts of the animals to th? bride and 
 bridegroom, and then leaves the reft to help them- 
 felves at their pleafure. The company then dance 
 the whole night ; and with this feftivity the wed- 
 ding-entertainment ends. The men are permitted 
 to have as many concubines. as they pleafe. But a 
 woman if caught in adultery, is put to death. Few 
 have more than one wifej by whom, in a fpace of 
 twelve or fourteen years, they have rarely more 
 than three or four children. The women do not 
 fuffer much in child-bearing ; and in a fewi hours 
 after that event,- are again lit for their ufual work. 
 Till their fixth year, both boys and girls remain 
 under the care of their mother. At that age the 
 boys begin to receive inftructions from the priefts, 
 and to go out a hunting with their fathers. The 
 girls remain with their mothers, feldom receiving 
 mitructions from the priefts ; as for them this is 
 not accounted neceflary. The religion of the coun- 
 try is Paganifm, to which the fun and moon are 
 objects of worfhip. They celebrate feafts at every 
 change of the moon, after every victory obtained 
 over their enemies, at the election of a new King, 
 and upon the flaughter of any beait of prey that 
 has been exceedingly formidable and deftructivc. 
 The King is fupreme ruler, tarring unquestioned 
 power of Hfe and death over all his fubjects. If 
 any one be condemned to death, for what others 
 
 think
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 323 
 
 think a flight venial crime, the priefts fay, his the 
 will of God! and this quiets all murmurs. The 
 King maintains great ftate ; and when he goes 
 abroad, is attended by a train of four, five, or fix 
 elephants. When he travels, he rides on a fpotted 
 buffalo, which is led by two of his moft trufty fer- 
 vants. In the town he rides ufually on a zebra. 
 On thefe occafions he is attended on each fide by 
 twenty officers, walking on foot. Although the 
 priefts have great influence over the people, yet 
 they dare not intermeddle in the government. 
 The army, as every man is a foldier, confifts of 
 between forty and fifty thoufand infantry, and has 
 the refutation of bravery. In war the buffalo is 
 ufed, and they live in a conftant ftate of warfare 
 with the neighbouring nations. Chriftians are 
 not tolerated in this country, as they are accufed, 
 and perhaps not without reafon, of having at- 
 tempted privately to feize the fovereignty. The 
 Portugueze were on this account driven out in the 
 year 1 7 63, and their return for ever prohibited. The 
 officers are at the fame time judges in towns and 
 villages ; but affairs of any importance are referred 
 to the King. Every ftranger, who does not con- 
 fefs that he is a Chriftian, may travel in fecurity 
 through the country, will be very well treated, and 
 in general entertained without expence. Travel- 
 lers, who are known to be Chriftians, are conveyed 
 from one village to another, and mud pay for 
 every thing they ufe. 
 
 Y 2 As
 
 324 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 As I came to Awakana, I was furrounded by the 
 inhabitants, who were curious to fee me, and 
 treated me in a very friendly manner. I was quef- 
 tioned by one well acquainted with the Congo lan- 
 guage, whether I was a Chriftian ? As foon as I 
 had denied it, they brought me meal and water 
 in plenty, and prepared for me ( a good night's 
 lodging. 
 
 From the 2 2d to the 24th my road was very 
 goixi, and in all the villages which LipafTedthro*, 
 or in which I fpent the night, I was well enter- 
 tained. On the 25th I came to the lake of Zambre, 
 and pafled the night in Keha, a village three leagues 
 weft of the city of Zambre. Here I was taken into 
 the hut of the judge, who was an officer, and hof- 
 pitably received. He behaved very politely, fent 
 on my account to the city for an interpreter, who 
 undcrftood the Congo tongue, and when he knew 
 the purport of my journey, requefted me to make 
 ufe of his fcrvices. 1 was placed on a flraw mat 
 clofe to him to flecp on, and on the next morning 
 he accompanied me to Zambre (or Zembre). 
 
 Zambre contains about four hundred huts, and 
 from fifty to lLxty houfes. The firft are of wood 
 and rnfhes, the laft of mud and flint. The King's 
 palace, which is built like the houfes, of mud and 
 
 flint,
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 325 
 
 flint, is fituatcd on the fouth-caft fide of the town, 
 and is Unrounded witli a flint wall. The city forms 
 a triangle on the right bank of the river Zambrc, 
 lus two principal and three crofs ftreets, and is 
 guarded by a wall only from the well to the north. 
 'The houfes are one ftory high, as is the palace alfo ; 
 the eight temples in the city are of ruflies and wood, 
 but one in the palace is conftructed with mud and 
 flint. Mofl of the inhabitants are exceedingly dirty, 
 and work only from extreme neceflity, except the 
 potters and fmiths, of whom the laft are employed 
 by the King, and make his arms. 
 
 The palace is long, and of a quadrangular form. 
 The court-yard, where the weapons are kept, has a 
 guard of fifty men, who are however employed in 
 various fervices. The King has only two apart- 
 ments, which are on the eaft-fide of the court, has 
 but one wife, who cannot approach to him by day, 
 and his two high-priefts are under the fame prohi- 
 bition. In the dayrtime he is employed with the 
 officers* in civil and military affairs, hears the com- 
 
 * The officers are diftinguilhed from, the other inhabitants 
 by their (hirts of zebra fkins, and a turban of jackal {kin, 
 which is adorned with bones of lhells. When they come to 
 the royal reiidence, they are entertained at the King's expence : 
 but befides this, neither officers nor common men have the 
 Ipaft pay. The plunder they get in war they keep for them- 
 felves, and wherever they go as enemies, they carry off every 
 thing of value, even the ftakes of the huts.
 
 326 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 plaints, petitions, and reprefentations of his fubjecfr, 
 and converfes with travellers who vifit his king- 
 dom. In the evening audience is given to the 
 priefts, who muft however retire as foon as the 
 Queen is announced. Entrance is free to every- 
 one, and ftrangcrs muft particularly come to the 
 King on their arrival at the city, or who intend to 
 travel through the land, and beg his protection. 
 He is punctual, active, warlike, and is both rc- 
 fpc&ed and dreaded by his moil powerful enemies. 
 
 When I came to the city, the guard qucftioried 
 me whence I was ? My guide replied, that I was a 
 ftranger, and he had undertaken to announce me 
 to the King. The guard confidered a few mo- 
 ments, and then let us pafs. I expreffed my fur- 
 prize to the interpreter, who alfo came into the 
 city with me, that the guard mould take time to 
 confider, when I was under the protection of an 
 officer ; but I learned that the guard were held in 
 very high refpect, and that it was in their power to 
 have detained me, and to have announced my ar- 
 rival to the King. When we came to the palace 
 another guard took me in cuftody, and notwith- 
 ftanding the reprefentations of the officer, would 
 not permit me to pafs. The officer went inftantly 
 to the King, announced my arrival, and brought 
 back to the guard a piece of wood, on which fomc 
 
 marks
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 327 
 
 marks were burnt, and I wasfet at liberty, and 
 went into the palace. The King received me at the 
 door of his tent with a ftout-elub, which impreffed 
 me with terror ; but his friendly good-tempered 
 countenance loon calmed my fears, and his future 
 conduct entirely compofed me. His hair was 
 frizzled, and adorned withfhells. The lower parts 
 of 'us body were covered with a palm leaf, the 
 upper part was entirely naked. He fpoke to me by 
 an interpreter, though he himfelf underftood moft 
 of the words in my language. 
 
 O. Whence came you ? 
 
 A. I cannot exactly fay, for I do not know the 
 name of the country on which I was fhipwrecked. 
 
 O. Are you a Chriftian ? 
 
 A. No; I am an Egyptian, andwifh to go back 
 into my own country. 
 
 O. How long have you been on your journey ? 
 
 A. Fourteen changes of the moon. 
 
 O. Is that the drefs of your country, which you 
 now have on ? 
 
 A. No ; this cloathing I had from the South 
 CarTres. 
 
 O. Did you travel without moleftation through 
 fo many countries ? 
 
 A. Yes ; no one did me any harm, as they faw 
 
 that I was poor ; and they gave me every .where 
 
 flefh, peafe, meal, milk and water, and took me 
 
 Y 4 willingly
 
 328 TRAVELS IN TJIE 
 
 willingly into their huts, that I might fleep at my 
 eafe. 
 
 Q. You mall be treated here in the fame man-? 
 ner : but I underftand your language, fo that you 
 cannot be far from your own country ? 
 
 A. If I were to fpeak the language of my own 
 country you would not underftand me ; the lan- 
 guage I ain now fpeaking I learned of the King of 
 Angola, who took care of me when I was ill, and 
 detained me with him till I was perfectly reco- 
 vered. 
 
 King. You mall have my protection and fupport 
 as long as you pjeafe. Come, fit down. 
 
 A mat was immediately brought for me and I 
 fat down, and foon after a pot of milk was pre- 
 fented to me ; and upon my anfwering to their 
 queftions that I was hungry, fome meal was 
 brought for me. About evening I was permitted 
 to retire, and ftiewn into a hut near the palace, 
 where I remained till the next morning, when I 
 was again introduced into the royal prefencc. The 
 Khig carried me into his hail, and fhewedmehis 
 treafures, which he prized very highly, though 
 they were of trifling value : fuch as fome engrav ? 
 ings, which had probably been there from the time 
 that the Portugueze Mere in the country ; two 
 looking-glaifes, a calendar of the year 1 743 \ fome 
 leaves of printed paper y four little cannon, fuch as 
 
 children
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 
 
 3*9 
 
 children, play with, feveral infignificant wooden 
 toys, and a wooden clock, that flood ftill and 
 feemed to be falling to pieces. The King com- 
 plained through the interpreter that the clock did 
 not go now as it ufed to do, though he had taken 
 all the pains pofiible to bring it into order. 
 
 As foon I was alone with the interpreter, I told 
 him that I would try to put the clock in fuch a 
 ftate that it mould go again, if the King gave me 
 permiffion. He run away joyfully, and acquainted 
 the King with my intentions. The King gave his 
 confent, but ordered the interpreter to {layby me 
 ah 1 the time, that I might not carry away any part 
 of his clock. Hence I was conftantly in the royal 
 apartments to look after my work, which how- 
 ever went fiowly on, as I had very little knowledge 
 of clock-making. That I might not confound 
 the different pieces, I marked each of them as I 
 took it out with a number, and inferibed thefe 
 numbers, for want of paper, in my journal, with 
 charcoal and vermiilion. On the next morning I 
 began my work very early, and by the time that 
 the King came it was almoft all put together. I 
 hung it up, and faw to my great joy, as well as that 
 of the King, that it went. The King was amazingly 
 aitonilhed, and conceived that I mull be a very 
 capital artiil:, who could. put fo rights a machine, 
 
 which
 
 330 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 which none of his fubjecb would undertake to 
 repair. 
 
 From this time I arofe ftill higher in the royal 
 eftimation, was treated with the fame fare as the 
 King, and attended him every where. This af- 
 forded me an opportunity of vifiting lake Zambrc, 
 whither the King went, both for mooting and fiHi- 
 ing. It is in length three good days journey, con- 
 tains forty fmall iflands, ftocked by an incredible 
 number of birds, which are either taken or robbed 
 of their eggs. The lake is of an uniform appearance, 
 and is about a half day's journey in breadth in the 
 middle, but only a quarter of a league at the nor- 
 thern extremity. The King keeps here a guard of 
 two hundred men, who are to preferve the birds 
 and fifli for his ufe : but I learned that their belt 
 dilhes were made of the fifh and fowl which they 
 took for themfelves. In fome maps this lake is 
 put in the wrong place, that is, with its greateft 
 part in the kingdom of Mafli ; and by molt geogra- 
 phers its length is made too great. They alio place 
 between the kingdoms of Maffi and Monoemugi a 
 third lake, but notwithftanding much enquiry I 
 could gain no intelligence of it. 
 
 Wherever I attended the King, I endeavoured to 
 be ufeful to him in little matters, which were how- 
 ever
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRITA. 33I 
 
 ever highly cfteemed in his fight ; for example, I 
 taught him i'ome new methods of catching birds 
 and fifh, I made him a dial, I dreiled his meat in a 
 different way from that of the country, and made 
 it tafte better, and many other things. I became 
 very intimate with moft of the officers, was 
 efteemed by them, and oftentimes taken into the 
 councils: and they would even have been very 
 wed pleaied, if I had gratified the King's wifhes 
 by accenting the place of an officer. To retain me 
 with him and to bind me for ever, the King pro- 
 pofed a wife to me, but I declined the propofal. 
 Three times I accompanied him with his army, af- 
 filed by my counfel and actions in feveral expedi- 
 tions, and returned back highly honoured and 
 efteemed. As I was now well acquainted with the 
 language of the country, I could converfe with the 
 King without an interpreter, and could impart to 
 him many an obfervation, which in the prefence of 
 a third perfon would have been improper. When 
 the King went to his houfe of prayer, to perform 
 his religious duties, I. accompanied him, clafped 
 my hands and prayed at the fame time. This 
 made him believe that I had embraced his religion, 
 and he efteemed me fo much the more, fo that he 
 would rarely be without me : as, the greateft proof 
 of his love for me, he gave me permiffion to eat in 
 his prefence with his wife, yet I was never per- 
 mitted
 
 332 TRAVELS IN TH 
 
 mitted to be alone with her, nor could I enter her 
 apartment, for that was not allowed to any other 
 man. 
 
 After I had fpent five months here, I was feized 
 with a defire to travel farther, and I looked out for 
 a proper opportunity to make known my wiihesr 
 to the King. This foon occurred, as I was to at- 
 tend him to the chace. Here I told him that I was 
 refolved to go from him to my own home, to my 
 kinfmen and friends, who were probably thinking 
 that I was dead, and after comforting them and 
 ietting my family affairs in order, to return back 
 to him, to end my days in his country, and by 
 trufty fervice to make fome return for the kind- 
 nefs which he had hitherto fhewn me, and which 
 I could never repay. He made no reply, but 
 feemed to be forrowful. In the evening, as I was 
 fupping with him, he led the converfation to my 
 requeft, and faid, " You really then wim to return 
 to your friends :" I anfwered, " Yes; if I have 
 your permiilion, and you require no payment for 
 the many acts of kindnefs you have (hewn me.'* 
 r " I promifed you (he replied) hofpitality, and 
 you owe me nothing : but I fhould be very happy 
 it you would ftay here." As I made fome objec- 
 tions, he faid at laft, "You may go when you 
 pleaic. I will take care that you lhail have a guide 
 
 through
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 333 
 
 through my country, and that you fhall be well 
 received ; but I beg of you to come back again 
 foon, and you fhall hold the firft place in my 
 friendfhip." After I had returned him thanks, 
 he afked me when I would go ? I replied, in three 
 days time. He inftantly ordered that they fhould^ 
 two days after, hunt a chamois, drefs the hind 
 quarter, and give it to me for my journey. 
 
 On die 28th of May, 1787, 1 left my friends, 
 who were much affected on my taking leave of 
 them, and travelled to the north-eaft. I had a 
 guide with me, who carried my provisions, and 
 was charged with my fafety over the Akmafoo 
 mountains, where the lions are numerous. On the 
 firft day we travelled through Serra and Mehar, 
 two ill-built villages at the foot of the mountain, 
 and took up our lodgings for the night at Jellah, 
 a village containing eight or twelve huts, half way 
 up die mountain. The inhabitants are very poor, 
 have a league to go for their water to a valley, 
 and poffefs very little fruit. They treated us widi 
 toiled tortoife, meal and water. 
 
 On the 29th, in the forenoon, we came to a 
 faltpetre work, where ten men were empoyed. I 
 examined it attentively, and found, at the depth 
 of about two fathom, the richeft faltpetre. About 
 
 eighty
 
 334 TRAVELS IN THf 
 
 eighty fteps farther, under a hill to the north, % 
 hot fpring was fhewn to me, which emitted a ful- 
 phurous fmell, and was of a reddifh colour. Here 
 we reded ourfelves, then afcended another part of 
 the mountain, and arrived about evening at Eta- 
 ham, a large village on the north fide of the moun- 
 tain, in which I counted [about a hundred and 
 forty huts. From this place we overlooked a flat 
 three leagues in length, covered with fruit trees, 
 and reed grafs, and watered on the weft by a fmali 
 arm of the river Zambece, which alfo glides along 
 by the mountain. From this river alfo the inhabi- 
 tants of the village muft fetch their water, which, 
 in the months of June and July, overflow*, and 
 inundates the whole neighbourhood. Before the 
 inundation the inhabitants of the village dig large 
 holes in the earth, not far from their huts, that 
 when the river returns again to its own banks, 
 the water may be retained for fome time longer 
 near their huts. We paffed the night at the hut 
 of an Awollo, or prieft, who treated us- very ill, 
 and for our couch pointed out the bare ground 
 to us. On the next morning my guide returned 
 back, and I continued my journey over the plain. 
 
 Juft.as I faw Mufs, a village then very near 
 to me, and was not under any apprehenfions of 
 danger, on a fudden a dreadful howl arofe from 
 
 behind
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 335 
 
 l>ehind me, and on looking round I perceived a 
 herd of cattle galloping towards me, purfued by 
 a number of wild dogs. I ruined forward with 
 all my might to efcape if pofiible from thefe dan- 
 gerous animals, and fucceeded, though not till I 
 was entirely worn out and fainting from fear and 
 anxiety. On reaching the village I fell to the 
 ground breathlefs, and did not recover for an 
 hour. The inhabitants ran up to me, had pity 
 on my Htualion, and when I told them of the in- 
 cident, they informed me, that in this tract qt 
 country I mould be frequently liable to fimilai: 
 danger, as in the rainy feafon, or the overflowing 
 of the waters, the cattle retire to higher ground, 
 and are followed by the dogs. This was the pre- 
 cife time, when they were going to the higher 
 lands. I began to confider whether it would be 
 belt to remain here, or to travel farther : I en- 
 quired how long the dogs would be in this neigh- 
 bourhood, and was informed, that they would 
 remain two months longer. I now began to la- 
 ment that I had not previoufly made better, en- 
 quiries, and that I had not ftaid two months lon- 
 ger with the Kingr lnv benefactor. 
 
 On the following morning I confumed the frag- 
 ments of the meat prefented to me by the .King, 
 and determined to go onwards. I fet off inftantly, 
 
 examined
 
 33^ TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 examined the country, and refolved to go round 
 to the eaft of a wood which I faw near me. I 
 could have vifited three villages in the direct road, 
 which I faw on my right hand, but then I muft 
 have travelled through the wood. That night I 
 was obliged to pafs in a tree, and to be always on 
 the watch, left I mould tumble to the ground. 
 Very early I defcended from my refting-place, and 
 looked out for fprings, but not finding any, en- 
 deavoured to quench my thirft with tamarinds. 
 After a time the tamarinds produced quite the 
 contrary effect, and I was fo thirfty, that I would 
 have drank the moft ftinking water that could be 
 produced. I was now fo weakened that I could 
 creep on but flowly, and every moment expected 
 to become a prey to mad dogs. At every ftep I 
 flirieked out, and then an immenfe multitude of 
 baboons, fuch as I had not hitherto feen, made 
 fuch a continual chattering, that I thought the 
 hounds were at my back. 
 
 Without hurt, but weak and fainting, I reached 
 Himpgu in the evening, a village at which I pro- 
 pofed to reft and take care of myfelf, for I thought 
 nothing more certain than to find good quarters, 
 as I had the wooden ftick marked with the King's 
 lignature to infure me a good reception from his 
 Subjects. I was, however, rejected by the firft 
 
 and
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA* 337 
 
 and Tecond huts, and not without great entreaties 
 received into the third. Many out of curiolity 
 furrounded me, and accompanied me as as foon 
 as I entered the village, the children particularly 
 thronging about me, and exclaiming, " Solleboa, 
 Solleboa a Chriflian, a Chriflian." The (upper 
 confided of very {linking meal and bad water ; 
 and for a night's lodging I was fhewn into a fmall 
 hovel with four and twenty kids and goats, who 
 all the night long were fpringing from one fide to 
 the other, and bruifing me with many a tread. 
 I left my miferable couch as tired as when I laid 
 myfelf down ; but juft as I was on the point of 
 quitting the hovel to go to the large hut, it began 
 to rain, and a great florm blew up. I ftaid quietly 
 contemplating the goats, and considering which 
 way I mould travel, when two claps of thunder 
 roufed me, and led me to look out at the door to 
 lee how long the tempeft was likely to continue. 
 Here I faw my hoft with all his family coming out 
 of their hut, and in the utmo-x terror throwing 
 themfelves down with their faces to the ground. 
 I could not look on this ceremony without fmil- 
 ing, for each fcreamed out, " Ollahawjungo goh- 
 libing ye Gods, do not plunge us into the- abyls." 
 A fhorfc time after, when the thunder-elaps-grew 
 fainter, they arofe up, ftepped to me, and en- 
 quired whether I had not been calling .upon the-, 
 
 Z god.
 
 33$ TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 gods. I replied, " I do this every day ; but I am 
 not (id upon every ftorm, but cheerful, as it does 
 good to my health." " All ! (faid they) if the 
 gods were angry, and ftruck you with thunder, 
 would that too be good for your health?'* " The 
 gods, (I anfwercd) will not do this whilft I keep 
 theirs and the King's commands. But ye will 
 be puniflied by them, for ye have not obeyed their 
 commands." They looked at me for fome mo- 
 ments, when my hoft took me by the hand, led 
 me into his hut, prepared a good breakfaft for me 
 of goats' milk, Indian corn, and a piece of boiled 
 tortoifo, and begged me to flay the whole day 
 with hinu 1 accepted the Gift propofal, his break- 
 faft, but rejected the fecond \ and, after filling 
 my water-bottle, I travelled on northwards, vifit- 
 ing in my way three thinly inhabited villages. In 
 the fourth village I palled the night, and was bet- 
 ter treated than I expected, for the ten huts, in 
 which there ihight he about thirty perfons, looked 
 very miferably, and betrayed the poverty of their 
 inhabitants. J obtained here, however, a good 
 piece of boiled tortoife, meal and good water, and 
 they very carefully prepared for me a couch o 
 reed-ftraw, of palm-leaves, on which I flept very 
 foundry. The next day I made a day of reft, and 
 accompanied my hoft, a friendly young man, to 
 amadjacent plain, where I foon found four tor- 
 
 toifes,
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 339 
 
 toifes, two of which were inftantly dreffed, and 
 the other two fet apart for ray journey. 
 
 From the 2d to the 5th of June I travelled over 
 a faiall defart, where I did not fee a perfon, but 
 found fruit trees and good water, and was not at* 
 tacked by any wild beafls. As I could here fatisfy 
 my hunger and thirft at proper times, I was ftrong 
 enough in thefe four days to go over from eight 
 and twenty to thirty German miles. I looked 
 continually around me for villages, but difcovered 
 none, and mould have found very few, as I learned 
 afterwards, in a very great circuit, as the northern 
 part of the country, through which I was travel- 
 ling, was almoft uninhabited. 
 
 In the evening of the 5th I arrived at Mofaku, 
 a place with about eighty huts, built fo far afun- 
 der, that it takes half an hour to walk through, 
 the place. Every one who was without the huts 
 ran up to me, as foon as they faw me, and gazed 
 at me : I prefented to them the King's wooden 
 paffport, which mould have encouraged them to 
 hofpitality, but they made no preparations to con- 
 duct me farther. At laft I gave it to an old man ; 
 he looked on it, then gave it to another, and io 
 it went in fuccefiion ; and when the laft had takei^ 
 it into his hands, ail the by-ftanders ran away, 
 
 Z 2 and
 
 340 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 and left me to myfclf. I ran at laft after them, 
 and demanded my pafiport, but before I came* 
 near to the huts, feveral came running to me, fome 
 bringing pure milk, others milk and water, others 
 meal and meat, fo that in a few minutes Iliad pro- 
 vifion enough for a week. Sitting down by the 
 ncareft huts, I fatisfied my hunger with the provi- 
 fions before me, and took feveral draughts of 
 milk. The ftandcrs-by were much aftoniihed at 
 the quantity I ate, and ordered more food and 
 milk to be brought : but as I had fuilicient, I for- 
 bad the order, and gave them to underftand that 
 I wifhed for a hut to flecp in. Several inftantly 
 offered to conduct me : I arofe, followed them, 
 and was conducted to the prieft of the place, who 
 welcomed me in the moft friendly manner, fhewed 
 me a good couch, but would not let me flecp till 
 midnight. He aiked me a thoufand queftions, 
 iuch as, whence I came, whither I was going, whe- 
 ther I was a cjiriftian, whether- 1 hadfeen the king, 
 and the like. 
 
 On the 6th, half a dozen men fet off with fome 
 buffaloes, laden with earthen ware, for Gohamy, 
 who encouraged me to go with them, which I 
 did. We moved on very flowly, on account of 
 the animals, who were very heavy laden, and ar- 
 rived late in the evening at Gohamy. My com- 
 rades
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 34I 
 
 rades fixed themfclvcs on a green place in the 
 middle of the village, where they fet out their 
 wares for fale. I ftaid by them, and flept undis- 
 turbed. The village coniifts of from -eighty to a 
 hundred huts, is fituated in a beautiful valley, and 
 fliews, by the conftruction of the huts, the com- 
 forts of the inhabitants. 
 
 On the following day I examined the earthen- 
 ware, which was indeed not quite fo good as that 
 of Europe. It is ill worked, dried in the fun, and 
 fmeared with the juice of palm and tamarind 
 leaves, like our flower -pots, with this difference 
 only, that they are of the fame breadth at the top 
 and bottom, and have a long ear or handle pro- 
 jecting from them. There were alfo plates and 
 difhes, which were however very ill made. 
 
 On the 7th, I afcended the Border-mountain, 
 which coniifts of two ranges of hills, running cir- 
 cularly from eaft to weft, and in many places here 
 and there have high hills joining to them. I tra- 
 velled obliquely over them, and with great labour 
 got over the firft range. At Paakam I lodged 
 with the overfeer, who was alio an officer, and 
 was well received by him. As it rained very 
 much, Iftaid upon his invitation three days there, 
 and out of gratitude paid him a florin, and 
 
 Z 3 changed
 
 342 TRAVELS IK Tft 
 
 changed another, for which I received three hun- 
 dred (hells. I made enquiries of the diftance of 
 the borders from this place, and was informed 
 that the laft place on them, named Bohlogom, was 
 billy a day's journey off. 
 
 CHAP.
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 343 
 
 CHAP. "X. 
 
 Arrival of the Author at the Firji Border-huts of the 
 Moobatans Hi/lory and Defcription of the Nation 
 On Account of the rainy Seafon, the Author was 
 compelled to Jlay, under difagrecable Circumjlanccs, 
 in the Village cf Myrob, when he travelled with 
 fame Buffalo-drivers from the Territory of Mofje- 
 gucjos, on the E aft -fide of the Kingdom of Monoe- 
 mugi, who were going into the Kingdom of Otoba, 
 over the River Druma, and by the Border-village 
 Nahvat Meets an Army of the Kinonians, fepa- 
 rates from his Company ', afcends a great Mountain, 
 and comes to the Mophans, who live in Holes. Here 
 he is well received, and prefented to the King De- 
 fcription of this Nation, their Manners, Cujloms, 
 Country, and Confutation, their King, their Reli- 
 gion, and various remarkable Productions Geogra- 
 phical Corrections The Author purpefes to travel 
 in a Caravan to Guinea, and to go back to Europe- 
 Journey through the Villages of Ohgothcn, Uhwoh, 
 and Matoh, to Ocymoroh, the King's Rejidcncc 
 The Author is placed among the King's Slaves, cfcapes 
 over fandy Defarts, afcends the Mountains of the 
 Moon, and comes to the IVcmahans, 
 
 z 4 on*?
 
 344 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 ON the nth, after turning my back to the 
 mountain, I reached Kphlogom, the laft \\U 
 lage in this kingdom, and confuting of two-and r 
 twenty huts. Here I refted two hours, then tra- 
 velled over the borders, and arrived about evening 
 at fome huts which were inhabited by the Mooha- 
 tans. This nation is ftrpng and warlike, inhabits 
 a track of land in the kingdom of Monocmugi, on 
 its borders, to whofe King they are fubjecls. They 
 inhabited formerly a different country under the 
 dominion of the King of Mufchako : but he wifhed 
 to force his brother on them as prince, and to fub- 
 jecl: them to greater oppreflion. As he was very 
 cruel, they revolted with fome other nations, 
 whom he attempted to rule over, fell upon him 
 and murdered him. This enraged the King his 
 brother, who levied an army to punifh thefe na- 
 tions ; but on his firft attack he was beaten and 
 driven back. He now collected a much ftronger 
 army, and determined to root out and deftroy all 
 the rebels, who did not wait for his approach, but 
 withdrew thcmfelves under the protection of fo- 
 reign kings. The Moohatans fubmitted in 1728 
 to the King of Monoemugi, who prefented them 
 with a miferable track of country on the borders, 
 where hills and unfruitful vallies prefent themfelves 
 alternately. Their country is about two days jour- 
 ney
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 345 
 
 jiey in length, and the number of inhabitants 
 about fixteen thoufand. In many things they 
 have aflimilated themiclvcs to the Monoemugians. 
 
 They do not pay any taxes to the King, but afiift 
 him in war, and protect the borders which they 
 inhabit from hofrile invafions. Their chiefs named 
 Bingpo are old men, who never march into the 
 held, but give up the command of the army to 
 perfons younger than themfelves. The nation 
 probably derived its name from the King of Mo* 
 noemugi, in whofe language Moohaka means a 
 ftrana:er. 
 
 The two days that I fpent in this little village, I 
 was well provided with victuals, but not permitted 
 to go into any hut ; for the inhabitants took me 
 for a Chriftian. On the 14th I could travel only 
 three leagues farther to fome huts, for the waters, 
 which owing to the rainy feafon rufhed down from 
 the mountains, were collected in the plains, and 
 formed as it were a lake. I begged the inhabitants 
 pf thofe infulated huts to orive me lodging; for fome 
 days, promising them for each day fixty gauers or 
 (hells. They accepted my terms with pleafure, and 
 J itaidw ith them till the 24th. It rained every day, 
 the wind blewftrong from the north, and the wa- 
 fers, increafed. Here and there the cattle were 
 
 feen
 
 346 TRAVELS IN TlfE 
 
 fcen fwimming about till they were drowned. The 
 inhabitants relate that they were driven down the 
 mountains by ftrong torrents of rain, and plunged 
 into the waters below. As a remarkable circum- 
 ftance, I obferved that in the ftrongeft fhowers and 
 tempefts the heavens did not appear black with 
 clouds, but of a fiery red. I was tired of waiting 
 2nd idling, particularly as I was not permitted to 
 Eve in the huts, but in a fmall hovel with the 
 goats, and fome days I faw only an old woman, 
 who brought me my meals very fparingly of meal 
 and four milk. More than once too I was deprived 
 of this fcanty food, for the woman fet it down on 
 the ground at the entrance of the hovel, and ran 
 back as faft as me could. If I was not by at that 
 time the goats attacked it, and as they were very 
 31 fed, I was obliged to fail. 
 
 On the 24th I fet off again, wading up to my 
 loins in water, and after fome hours of confiderablc 
 rift, reached a hill, the middle point between the 
 huts I had left and the village Mytob. I refted 
 there about an hour, furvcyed the neighbouring 
 country, then purfued my journey, and arrived in 
 good health at Mytob. The inhabitants were 
 much furprized that I mould have attempted a 
 pafiage through the water, and treated me with 
 kindnefs. Here I remained till the 1 9th of the 
 
 following
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA, 347 
 
 following month, for the floods were fo much out, 
 that if I had gone on I fhould have found my death 
 in them. Artcr I had been there fome days, the 
 conduct of the inhabitants was changed ; they 
 treated me no longer with refpeft, but thruft me 
 to the far theft part of the hut among the goats, 
 where at laft, as this part was ill built, and the rain 
 poured in, I was fo wet through, that for a week 
 my whole body was in perpetual moifture, and I 
 fell into a fever. My mifery now increafed : they 
 thought that mine was an infectious diforder, 
 pufhed me from one corner into the other, and 
 threatened to turn me out of doors, left, as they 
 feared, I fhould infect the cattle near whom I 
 lay. 
 
 The village confifted of fix-and-thirty huts, and a 
 temple, to which, as I was told, people travel from 
 countries far and near, to the diftance of thirty 
 days journey. The place where the temple ftands 
 is fuppofed to be that where the holy King Amah- 
 ratus of Jaga was murdered, and where the mur- 
 derers were inftantiy destroyed by thunder-bolts *. 
 
 The 
 
 * Whether this relation is agreeable to truth, I cannot afceiw 
 tain. The itcry is differently told, but the fubftance is as fol- 
 lows : The Kin; of Jaga had invaded this country, taken and 
 
 put
 
 348 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 The whole country, as far as one could fee, was 
 flooded by an arm of the river Druma, and the 
 water rofe fo high, that the huts were in danger 
 f being overwhelmed. Fortunately the weather 
 changed, the inn fhone out again, and warm breezes 
 enliyened the face of: nature. 1 offered my hoft 
 two florins for my entertainment, but he would 
 not accept them, not knowing their value, fo I 
 gave him an hundred fliells, with which he was 
 better pleafed. 
 
 On the 19th a great number of travellers arrived 
 with buffaloes, from the territory of Mofieguejos, 
 
 put to death the King of Moncemugi. On his march into the 
 enemy's country, he had faidto his foldiers, " Murder all the 
 enemy that refill you, and do not fpare the children." Thefe 
 orders were given, becaufe the Monoemugians had roafted alive 
 feme prifoncrs whom they had taken from his army. His 
 army went on a little before him, and he followed it with afmall 
 efcort. The fugitive Monoemugians, wholiad taken fhelter rn 
 holes and woods, gained intelligence of thefe orders of the hoi- 
 tile monarch, haftened after him, took him prifoner witb his 
 fmall efcort, threw his body like a log on the fire, and hurried 
 away from it. The army foon miffed their King, and on march- 
 ing back found his miferable remains. As they were endea- 
 vouring to find out the murderers, they came to this temple, 
 where they faw the murderers all dead except one, who was 
 very much hurt. He related to them every circumftance, par- 
 ticularly that his comrades and he were punifhed by the gods 
 for the murder of the pious King. 
 
 on
 
 iNfERIOR OF AFRICA. 349 
 
 tfn the eaft-fide of the kingdom of Monoemugi, 
 who were going into the kingdom of Otoba thence 
 to fetch fait. Thefe people were defcribed to me 
 as cannibals, but every thing that I could collect on 
 the fubject contradicted the report. On hearing 
 that they were travelling northwards, I begged 
 permiflion to travel with them, and they willingly 
 confented. We fct off on the 20th at day-break, 
 before which time the buffaloes had been coupled 
 together. An hour after we arrived at the above- 
 mentioned river, where I was placed en a buffaloj 
 who carried me fafely over. We then turned 
 round a mountain to avoid a fandy^ plain, and 
 came to Nahvat, a village with fixty huts, where 
 as ufual I begged for provifion. This was refufed 
 me, as it was fcarce here, and I obtained only a 
 draught of frefh water. The village .is properly 
 the border of the kingdom of Monoemugi, where 
 on theleft is the kingdom of Mufchako,on the right 
 that of Ortoba begins. We palled another river, 
 and fpent the night on a mountain, where I af- 
 fuaged my hunger with two tortoifes. 
 
 For feveral days we had not feen any wild 
 beafts, but in this country they fwarmed. In 
 the night that we palled on the mountains, tygers 
 and wolves were our vifitors, and in the morn- 
 ing feveral liens approached us. This harafied 
 
 the
 
 350 Travels in thb 
 
 the caravan accordingly, and I had much to da 
 to compofe it. My fellow travellers were poor, 
 Kving on fruits and roots, and frequently fafting a 
 whole day, as at this feafon no fruit was to be 
 found. They told me that they made this journey 
 twice a year, in which they encountered many 
 difficulties, lighting with wild beafts, and defend* 
 ing themfelvcs againft robbers. 
 
 Before ttoon we met an army of the Kinonians, 
 a nation called Bamba in the maps, who were 
 armed with javelins and battle-axes. They faid 
 that the Otobans had attacked them twelve days 
 ago, burnt feveral villages, and {lain above one 
 hundred perfons ; but they were now prepared 
 to go againft them in confiderable force, and to 
 chaftife them. As thefe people were going away, 
 I afked my comrades, whether as a ftranger I could 
 travel with tolerable fafety in the territory of the 
 Otoban ? They replied, that it was not advife* 
 able to attempt it ; but I mould be aiTu redly fafe as 
 long as I was with the caravan : and the moun- 
 tain, whence they fetched their fait, was only two 
 days journey off, and then I muft travel by myfclf* 
 This day I kept with the caravan, as we did not 
 pafs through a village, but on the next morning I 
 took leave, and turned to the weft to a lugli 
 mountain, for m^il of the plains were {till 
 
 covered
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 3^1 
 
 covered with water. I faw neither man nor bcaft 
 the whole day, and found neither fruit nor roots, 
 for the foil is too rocky to produce them, and I 
 was obliged to lay myfelf down on the fharp 
 rocks without fatisfving my hunger. 
 
 On the following day the 23d, I came up to 
 eight men at the end of the mountain, who were 
 returning from hunting. When they faw me, 
 they were determined to go forward, but I cried 
 after them, for I was tortured by hunger, and to 
 my great joy they ftocd ftill, afked me what I 
 wanted, and who I was, and other queftions of 
 the fame kind. When I had anfwered their quet 
 tions, they turned to go away, as my cloathing 
 did not pleafe them, but I begged to accompany 
 them, to which they at laft contented. They con- 
 ducted me to the weftern fide of the mountain, 
 where I law a great number of men but no huts. 
 I was foon however conducted to fomething 
 better, for they led me into a hole, and I found 
 that here were fifty of the fame kind near each 
 other. Roots, water, and a fmall piece of meat 
 compofed our fupper, after which I laid myfelf 
 down and went to fleep. Early in the morning; 
 I was deiired by a voice at the mouth of the hole 
 to come out, which I did inftantly, and on coming 
 
 out
 
 35 3 xRAVrr* IN TIIK 
 
 out received fome meal and wetter, and the ncign* 
 bours ran together to fee and to queftion mc. 
 Nov%* was 1 obliged again to anfwer all the ^ud 
 tions as I had done the day before, and to "with- 
 ftand the objections of various kinds made by the* 
 examiners. Some took me for a. Chriftian, others 
 for a Mahometan, others for a runaway flave, and 
 each endeavoured oh good grounds to maintain* 
 Bis opinion. Some propofed^ that I mould be? 
 fent to king Majaphar,* others, particularly thd 
 women, advifed that I mould be kept here as T 
 looked white and nice. Some few at lair were of 
 opinion, that I might be a fpy of another nation, 
 and probably more might follow me, fo that it 
 would be bed to put me to death, as a terror to 
 thole who were to follow me. To my great joy 
 this proportion was rejected, and a grey-headed 
 old man took me under his particular attention, 
 laying, provide the ftranger with food, treat him 
 hofpitably, and permit him to go away in peace. 
 Hereupon he afked mc, whither I wifhed to go ? 
 I replied to Egypt. I then told him that I mould 
 not originally at firft have come into this country, 
 
 * This is the name of the kin^ of this country, called in the 
 maps Mufhako. 1 never heard the name of the country men- 
 tioned, but when they fpoke of the inhabitants, they called 
 them Mophans. 
 
 but
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 353 
 
 but as I had heard two days before that there was 
 Avar between the two neighbouring nations, I 
 thought it better to come this way, that I might 
 travel in Safety and without difturbance. 1 now 
 begged him to procure me the liberty of proceed- 
 ing on my journey. He anfwered, " this you {hall 
 have, but we muft lirft lend you to the king, to 
 whom you may prefent your petition. For the 
 prefent come to my hole, and be welcome to 
 whatever I have." I was fo much pleafed with 
 this honourable old man, that I fpent three days 
 with him, and on my departure prefented him, 
 out of gratitude, with a florin, for which, though 
 he did not know its value, he teftified great fatis- 
 faction. 
 
 The king of this country is defpotic, and pof- 
 ieffes a vaft tract, of land, ten days journey in 
 length from eaft to weft, and feven days journey 
 in breadth from north to fouth. It abounds with 
 mountains and eminences, but there are many 
 fruitful plains, of whofe produce the inhabitants 
 do not underftand the advantage. In the northern 
 mountains there is gold ; but the king does not 
 fearch for it with his own people, but lets them 
 out to his neighbour the king of Mohopharo for 
 a yearly rent. Here is plenty of wood, and animals 
 of all kinds : the zebra is domefticated, and its Hem 
 A a is
 
 354 travels in thb 
 
 is confidered as a very great delicacy. Among 
 other fruit-trees there is one which bears a fort of 
 apple, without feed, taftes like a citron, is the fize 
 of an hen's egg, and of a yellow coloiir : it grows 
 on mountains, has long narrow lance -fhaped 
 leaves, and is about the height of a cherry tree ; 
 the bark very mucli refembles that of the cinna- 
 mon : this, as well as the fruit, is collected in 
 great heaps, and is ufed throughout all the year 
 as a ftrengthener. The inkobak tree has a nutty 
 fruit about the lize of an egg ; has a long red bark, 
 from which, in all probability, a good colour might 
 be extracted- I perceived that earthen-ware was 
 coloured with it, and that the colour did not lofe 
 its brightnefs in the fire. The kernel of the fruit 
 is white, and taftes like cinnamon. The tree is 
 about the iize of our oaks, and bears all the year 
 through fruit and bloffoms. The leaves are like 
 fig leaves, but far larger. In time of war the king 
 can bring into the field from twelve to fourteen 
 thouiand men, good foldiers. Mod of the inha- 
 bitants of this country live in holes, for they are 
 too lazy to build huts or fmall houfes. The king 
 lives at very great expencc, and in great ftate, 
 When he appears in public, in general fifty colo- 
 mays or officers attend him. The oldeft perfons 
 of each family determine the difputes in the family. 
 The officers are cither the funs of the royal concu- 
 bines,
 
 INTERIOR "OF AFRICA. 35 
 
 bines, or thofe who have diftinguifhed themfelves 
 in war, and are to numerous, that for every fix 
 men there is an officer. 
 
 The king is lord of eVery thing that his fubjects 
 poffefs, even of their wiv es. If he fees one that 
 pleafes him, he fends for her, and her hufband fol- 
 lows with many thanks for the honour conferred 
 upon him. Beautiful unmarried women muft all 
 he prefented to the king before they are married : 
 and it is efteemed a fpecial mark of favour, if the 
 king mould beftow on an officer one of his eight 
 hundred concubines, when he is tired of her. * 
 The king is very much addicted to fuperflition, 
 and is ftill more confirmed in it by the priefts, of 
 whom there are always fix about him. Here alfo 
 is to be feen, as in many European countries, the 
 injurious influence of the priefthood over. the ftate. 
 No man, except the priefts, is admitted, under 
 pain of death, to the concubines. The king gene- 
 rally wears a long mantle of mifsrable red cloth> 
 and has a large fword by his fide. Moft of the 
 foldiers wear their fwords, and fhort mantles made 
 of goats' hair. In the whole country not a town is 
 to be found, nor any fuch villages, as in the other 
 neighbouring countries. Moft of the inhabitants 
 live in holes, fome few in tents at great diftance 
 A a 2 from
 
 356 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 from each other, and in no place except where lie 
 the royal tents or holes are a hundred to be found 
 together. Their dwellings are changed feveral 
 times every year, and are fixed generally near the 
 water, or in fruitful neighbourhoods. Their pro- 
 vifion confifts of millet, Indian corn, and goats' 
 milkr Their religion is heatheniih ; the fun and 
 moon are adored, and their religious fervices are 
 performed in the open air, when the priefts, around 
 whom the people make a circle, direct the prayers, 
 at which both they and the by-ftanders frequently 
 proftrate themfelves with their faces to the ground. 
 There are no temples in the whole country : and 
 except the king and the priefts no one is allowed 
 to have more than one wife* 
 
 They arc too phlegmatic for the breeding of 
 children, and four or five from the fame married 
 couple are confidered as a very great rarity. At 
 the birth of a child neither circumcifion nor any 
 other ceremonies are ufed. The dead are in ge- 
 neral buried on high mountains, or placed Under 
 a heap of ftones, with their faces to the eaft ; and 
 food, firft blefTed by the prieft, is placed with them 
 in the grave. The men are more addicted to lazi- 
 nefs than the women, for, except when they are 
 hunting, they lie inactive in tlieir holes. The 
 
 womej*
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 357 
 
 women make tents and mantles of goats' hair*, 
 manufacture pottery, dry hides, and do the house- 
 hold work. The pottery and the hides are dif- 
 pofed of to other nations jn barter for utenfils of 
 iron. 
 
 The language of thele people is nearly the fame 
 as that of Congo. Inftead of A- in the language 
 of Congo, however, this dialect ufes (X It pre- 
 vails, with fome flight diverfities of dialect, as far 
 as to the river Nicer. The children sro twice a 
 
 o o 
 
 day to receive inftruction from the prieits, in the 
 open air. 
 
 On the 26th I left the village above mentioned, 
 and under the direction of a p:uide, travelled to- 
 ward the relidence of the king. We journeyed 
 to the north-weft, palling over fome hills, which 
 lay in one continuous range. They were inhabit- 
 ed by Mophanefe, who, when they heard that I 
 was the king's ftranger, fuffered me to proceed on 
 my way unmolefted. In the afternoon my guide 
 returned home ; and I, following my direction, 
 proceeded in the fame ftraight line. Coming to a 
 plain, however, which was ftill flooded, I was 
 
 * Thefe'are as fine as lilk ; and from the Cape to the 
 Pefe.rt, the wool of the fheep is like clod's hair, and is rarely 
 
 A a 3 obliged
 
 358 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 obliged to pafs on by a circuitous path for a fhort 
 way. Towards evening, I came to a hollow place 
 in which twenty men dwelt together; they thought 
 me a Have from the king of Haphai,* and that I 
 was going on a meflage to their own king. I was 
 at no pains to undeceive them ; as this notion of 
 my character and bufinefs ferved to make them 
 treat ine fo much the more kindly. They gave 
 me abundance of meal mixed with milk and water, 
 made a foft bed of fkins ; and next day con- 
 ducled me an hour's walk forward on my journey. 
 With difficulty I croflfed two rivers by fwimming, 
 as they were at that time much fwollen by the 
 rains. I faw alio lions on my way, fome of 
 which feemed as if they were coming to attack 
 me. I therefore climbed up a tree, and waited 
 till they were gone to a diftance. They however, 
 followed till I approached a village ; and even then, 
 though purfued with cries and fhouting, retired 
 but flowly. Eaftward from the path on which I 
 travelled is a chain of mountains, that extends in 
 a waving line to the Niger ; I paifed by the fide of 
 thefe mountains, and found on them ialtpctre in 
 
 * In the map?, Hnphai is marked by the name of Makoko 
 and Anzeko : but it is there extended tV.rther than it really 
 towards the Couth. 
 
 abundance,
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 359 
 
 abundance, with gold and copper ores, and only 
 here and there fome ftunted trees. The people of 
 this neighbourhood ufe reeds inftead of timber ; 
 the reeds were to be fcen in heaps before the village. 
 Within half a day's journey of the relidence of the 
 king, I came to a village lituated in a hollow : I 
 went firft to the prieft, and a&ed him to entertain 
 me for the night ; but he refufed, and only offered 
 me a heap of ftraw, on which I might lleep out of 
 doors. I went to other houfes, where I was alfo 
 denied : an old man, for fifty zempo, gave me fome 
 meal and flefh, and would have taken me into his 
 houfe if he had not known that the prieft refufed 
 to let me lodge in his. In vexation and ill-humour, 
 I threw myfelf on the reeds, flept a little, and next 
 morning, at a very early hour, continued my jouiv 
 ne\ r . By mid-day I reached the relidence of the 
 king, which ftands on a hill, and was conducted 
 into his tent. The king, who is a ftout young 
 man, came up to me, and aiked whence I . came, 
 and whither I was going ? When I had anfwered 
 theie queftions, he faid-r-" Thou art probably . a 
 Moor, and haft fome private bufmefs which thou 
 doft not choofe to declare. If I be right in my con- 
 jecture, thou fjialt feel the weight of my refent- 
 ment, but if it be otherwife, thou fhalt travel 
 through this country in. perfect freedom and 
 iafety." Upon this I was taken into the tent of 
 A a 4 the
 
 360 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 the guards, where I found thirty foldiers, who be- 
 haved to me with civility : by the king's command 
 J was fupplied with flour, water, and flefh, and 
 was treated in all refpecls as the king's gucft. I 
 remained under the care of the guard till the 6th 
 of Auguft, without being farther enquired after. 
 On the 7th I had again to appear before the king ; 
 he late on the ground before the. tent, with priefts 
 and foldiers around him. " Haft thou brought 
 me jio prefents from thy native country r" faid he. 
 '* I have, as I faid before, loft all," anfwered I. 
 " Art thou a Chriftian?" " No ; an Arab." " Thou 
 faidft that thou waft not on thy right road ; what 
 was thy purpofe in coming into my country V y 
 " The nations, your neighbours, were at war with 
 one another, and I did not think myfelf fare among 
 them, therefore I came into this country, which I 
 heard of at a great diftance, as being famous for the 
 virtue, genius, and valour of its inhabitants." " In 
 my territories thou art iafe ; but on the borders 
 are robbers, who will feize and murder thee : 1 
 would, therefore, have thee to remain with me." 
 " I will return after I have feen my' brother, my 
 fifters, my two wives, and my children." " Bring 
 thy wives and thy children to me, I will give thee 
 and them a tent : thou muft however remain here 
 a. few days, for the plains are overflowed with wa- 
 ter, and on the hiils-are multitudes of rapacious 
 
 bcafts
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA, 361 
 
 beafts of prey." I was fenfible of the reafohable- 
 nefs of what he faid ; but I wifhed to go on forty 
 miles farther, to Kammoh (Kururfa), whence I 
 might proceed, when the floods were abated, with 
 a caravan which goes every year to Guinea. Upon 
 farther confideration, I thought it beft to abide 
 here till I might be able to proceed without en- 
 dangering my life. In a few days I was able to 
 make mantles and coverlids of goats' hair as well 
 as the natives. The apparatus for weaving is here 
 very different from that of Europe ; inftead of 
 having treddles, heddles, and reeds, by which the 
 threads of the warp are, in our weaving, moved 
 up and down to receive thofe of the woof, the 
 children are here taught, from early infancy, to 
 move the diviiions of the warp alternately up and 
 down, while other perfons infert the woof. Their 
 pieces of cloth are, in length and breadth, from 
 one to three ells ; they ijpin the hair into threads 
 with a diftafF; the loom ftands on four feet or 
 poles, fixed in the ground; theie poles fupport a 
 frame on which the yarn is mftained ; beneath fits 
 the child who moves the warp up and down ; on 
 each fide ftands a grown-up perlon to pais the 
 woof from fide to iide, as the movements by the 
 child open the divifions of the warp. I introduced 
 an improvement on this loom, by employing, in- 
 ftead of the child, a treadle beneath, and by wind- 
 ing
 
 362 TRAVELS IX THE 
 
 ing the warp on a beam, I fucceeded ; but the 
 people were too much devoted to their old prac- 
 tice to adopt any improvements. In the begin- 
 ning of September I became anxious to renew my 
 journey ; I made known my wifh to the king, and 
 received permuTion to depart whenever I chofe. 
 
 On the 3d I fet out, and proceeded north- 
 wards, to avoid the great plains which were ftill 
 covered in places with water. This time of the 
 year is here the beft for travelling, the waters 
 being dried up by the heat of the fun. All nature 
 feems re-animated ; and the heats are not fo fcorch- 
 ing as they would be a month later. I faw here 
 and there huts and tents, but as I was in no want 
 of provifions did not enter any of them. At fun- 
 fet I halted, and afked lodging at fome tents ; this 
 I obtained, but I could procure no victuals. By 
 noon, on the following day, I reached the moun- 
 tain of Kohango (or the Treacherous Mountain) : 
 it is fo called on account of the lions which frequent 
 it, and often rufh out of their lurking places upon 
 travellers, and deftroy them. This mountain is 
 fmall, and lies not above half a day's journey dif- 
 tant from thelaft mentioned range of hills : it was 
 evening when I reached it ; and it required fome 
 courage and exertion to enable me to pafs on over 
 a tracl of country that is faid, by its inhabitants, 
 
 to
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 363 
 
 to be haunted by an evil fpirit. Few perfbns crofs 
 over it : travellers generally taking a circuitous 
 way, which requires fome hours more to pafs, 
 
 From the 5th to the 9th, I palled every night in 
 the open air, not having, during all this time, ar- 
 rived at any village. The road was here and there 
 very bad ; but I was cheered by the general beauty 
 of nature around me. In this part of my jour- 
 ney I, for the firft time, faw a touykoham*, at 
 which I was much alarmed, fearing it might at- 
 tack me ; but it fuffered me to pals on unmolefted. 
 I afterwards learned, to my great fatisfaction, that 
 it was not a ferocious animal ; and I killed, at dif- 
 ferent times, feveral young ones, whofe flefli I 
 broiled and ate. 
 
 On the 10th, about noon, I came to two-and- 
 fifty huts, where I bought, for twenty cowries, 
 fome milk and flour, and went on farther to a few 
 other tents, where I was hofpitably entertained for 
 the night. From this place I was accompanied by 
 
 * An animal in form fomevvhat like a greyhound. It has 
 long hair, and a tail like a lion. Its {ide-teeth are like the front- 
 teeth of the bear. Its hair is half an ell long, and as loft as 
 filk. Being unikillcd in natural hiftory, J cannot fay whether 
 this animal be not known to zoologifts under ibme. other name. 
 
 fome
 
 3 6 4 
 
 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 - 
 
 fomc men to the Golden Mountains, which we 
 reached in two days. There were many men en- 
 gaged in working gold mines, at a confiderable 
 depth in the earth. They aiked me to flay with 
 them ; but I expected no good of them, and chofe 
 rather to go to the corahaty (overfcer) himfelf. 
 This man was glad to find that I came to pafs the 
 night with him ; his tent was large : and he had 
 in it heaps of dried fruits, roots, and fiefh : he bid 
 me- take as much of thefeas I chofe, made ready a 
 plentiful meal, and gave me every encouragement 
 to avail myfelf freely of his proffered hofpitality. 
 I did as he defired ; and ftaid with him for fome 
 days : he fliewed his treafure of gold,* which was 
 in grains, each of the fize of a millet feed. To pro- 
 cure it, they fink pits in the mountains which have 
 many fubterrancous dreams and fprings ; into 
 thefc they put nets filled with ruflies or reeds, on 
 which the grains of the gold are depofited by the 
 water. 
 
 With this worthy man I continued fix days. 
 He treated me as kindly, and fliewed as great 
 
 * King Mohophara rents thefe mines from King Majophar, 
 paying for them in meal, fruit and flefli, and entertaining the 
 workmen, who arc for the moll part fubjects of King Majo 
 phar. 
 
 anxiety
 
 interior of africa. 36$ 
 
 anxiety for my welfare as if I had been his brother. 
 He could write in the fafhion of the country ; and 
 he infcribed words and figures on the bark 'and 
 leaves of trees, which I attempted to imitate. At 
 another time 1 fhcwed him the forms of our Ger- 
 man letters ; and he made them with great exacT> 
 nefs of imitation. I mould have ftaid longer with 
 him, had not an opportunity occurred for me to 
 proceed on my journey, in company with four of 
 the perfons under him, who were going with gold 
 to the king. 
 
 On the 1 7th, leaving my good hoft with regret, 
 I fet out in company with the perfons above men- 
 tioned. For two days we had to make our way 
 with difficulty through woods, and acrofs putrid, 
 noifeme mbrafles, and over fteep and rugged rocks : 
 lions, tygers, and buffaloes, roamed on all hands' 
 around us, and put us in great terror. The firft 
 night we flopped on the limimit of a very fteep 
 hill, to avoid the attack of thofe bealts. At fun- 
 rife we renewed our journey, which we continued* 
 palling a few houfes only, till the evening, when 
 we came to a fmall river, named Wohalar, which 
 is the boundary of the kingdom. We palled the 
 night on an open plain ; but beafts of prey came 
 too near to allow us to fleep. Faint and fearful, 
 we renewed our journey by fun-rife.j and in the 
 
 forenoon
 
 306 "TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 forenoon, to our great joy, reached the village of* 
 Ohgotha,- confiding of iixty-feven cottages. 
 
 The curiofity of the villagers Was greatly ex- 
 cited by our appearance : they crowded about me; 
 and every one wiftied to be my friend and protect 
 tor. 
 
 In language, cuftoms, and manners, this nation 
 nearlv refembles that which has been laft defcribed ; 
 with this difference, however, that they have none 
 who are priefts by profefTion ; but every father of 
 a family acts as prieft to his own houfehold. They 
 are generally poor ; yet this country may be called 
 the richeft in all Africa, as it contains gold in abun^ 
 dance, with which, by diligence, the inhabitants 
 might eafily enrich themfelves* The king is fo- 
 vereign lord of the country ; and all the gold found 
 in it belongs to him* This he difpofes of chiefly 
 to the Portugueze and Spaniards, but fometimes 
 alfo to the Englifli, on the coaft of Guinea, in ex- 
 change for cloth, looking-glafles, fciflars, knives, 
 nails, trinkets, and other European goods of (mall 
 value. By this traffic, as is eafy to fee, he cannot 
 but be a great lofer. The imports are, at the ut- 
 moft, not worth more than two thouiand dollars ; 
 and for thefe are exported gold, ivory, and hides* 
 to the vafcte of fixty thoufund dollars. The Portu- 
 gueze,
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 367 
 
 gueze, Spaniards, and Englifh, drive a fimilar trade 
 with other nations of Africa, equally to their own 
 profit and to the real lofs of the Africans. Here 
 we again find villages covered with reeds ; as it k 
 not neceflary in this diftrict to wander about from 
 place to place in fearch of water. In all the villages 
 are fome buffaloes : the men, when not lounging 
 in idlenefs, go a-hunting, and the women do the 
 houfehold work. I cannot ftate the extent of 
 this territory ; a part fpreading out to the eaft 
 and north remains an uninhabited defert, becaufe 
 the chain of mountains which runs through it, is 
 occupied by ferocious beafts of prey. The breadth 
 of this land too is very various and unequal. 
 Some of the nations in thefe parts are reputed to 
 be eaters of human flefli, a charge which I know 
 to be abfolutely groundlefs. I know not what can 
 have given rife to this report, unlefs it be, that the 
 greater number of thefe people have their teeth, 
 from early youth, fharpened into points ; and that 
 other people who have the teeth fo pointed are can- 
 nibals ; fo that, without further enquiry,_the cha- 
 racter of cannibals has been attributed to thofe alfo, 
 from the appearance of their teeth. I mull own, 
 however, that thefe people are favage, and ad- 
 dicted to robberies ; but I have remarked, that in 
 robbery they make a great diftinction between, 
 thofe who have not much to fpare and T t^ofe who 
 
 pofl'efs
 
 $6S TRAVELS IN TH*! 
 
 poficls abundance : the latter alone are in clanger 
 from their rapacity ; on which account caravans 
 are not very fafe in palling this way. The number 
 of this people is more considerable than it has been 
 (aid to be : they inhabit a narrow tract of land on 
 both fides of the river Wohala, which is about two 
 days and a half's journey in length, and the molt 
 fertile in all the region. On the confines are fome 
 villages, the inhabitants of which are placed there 
 to protect the country from hoftile inroads. The 
 river Wohala meanders through this country from 
 caft to weft, and affords water wholefome and 
 pleafant to the tafte. 
 
 I have alreadv mentioned, that the inhabitants 
 of the villages on the borders gave me a very 
 kind reception. They admitted me within their 
 circle round the fire, danced, fung, and leaped 
 around me, and were all in the livelieft emotion. 
 After about an hour they took me to their cot- 
 tages : and a conteft arofe among them concern- 
 ing who mould have me as his gueft for the night. 
 At length came the chief of the village, with his 
 daughter ;> and- after liftening fome minutes to the 
 contention, he took me by the hand and led me 
 into his own hut. A bundle of rufties were given 
 me, and on thefe I inftantly ftretched myfelf down. 
 I had been here about half an hour when my hoft 
 
 fuppoiing
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 369 
 
 JTuppofing me to be afleep, faid to his daughter 
 fomething in which I could hear myfelf men- 
 tioned. This man's own name was Khnewo. I 
 Hftened, and foon began to underftand why they 
 had made fo much to do about me. " We fhall 
 receive," faid he, " a nobler prefent from our king 
 when we offer him this fine white Have." The 
 ypung woman bethought her for a moment j and 
 then, inftead of approving her father's defign, 
 begged him to fay nothing more of it, but to per- 
 mit her to lie down befide me. The father made 
 fome objections which me removed, and ceafed to 
 urge her requeft. She would have fucceeded, 
 however, if juft at the moment when fhe was. 
 about to obtain her wifh, her mother had not 
 come in, and begun to fpeak of other things. 
 Fatigue hindered me from hearing more, but my 
 fleep was anxious and broken. I could hear no- 
 thing of my fellow travellers. Next morning, upon 
 enquiry, I found that they had gone the night before 
 by moon-light to Acymiroh, a large village where 
 the king relided. I awoke very early, for anxiety 
 for my fate had not fufFered me to fleep. I looked 
 round the infide of the cottage, and faw that none 
 were yet awake ; I then went out, early as it was, 
 and looked about me. In an opening nearly 
 twenty paces diflant I found a pool of water, at 
 which, probably, the goats might drink. Here I 
 
 Bb ' felt
 
 370 TRAVELS IN THI 
 
 felt a defire to bathe, which I had experienced in 
 all the preceding part of my journey ; and throw- 
 ing afide my cloaths I went into the pond. It ex- 
 cited a great emotion in my whole frame, and I 
 felt myfelf, as it were, animated with double 
 ftrength. I then went back to the hut, the maf- 
 ter of which was already up, and had gone out, 
 they faid, to feek me. I told him where I had been^ 
 and what I had been doing; and they were pleafed 
 with me on account of it. My landlord came 
 back with a gloomy countenance : but when he faw 
 me it cleared up, and he was pleafed with me. His 
 daughter gazed on me with eyes of fondnefe. No 
 fboner had the old folks gone out of the hut, than 
 he fprang to me, embraced me clofely, and afked 
 if I would not remain with her. I anfwered, " that 
 I was travelling a great way eaftwarcL" " Stay 
 here," returned flie, " and you ihall be my huf- 
 band." I endeavoured -to foothe her, and fhe be- 
 came as much fatisfied and as familiar with me as if 
 we had been acquainted for many years. Her father 
 feemed contented to fee me on fiich good terms 
 with his daughter ; and when I declared my in- 
 clination to remain with her, and to take her to 
 wife, he made no objection. About noon how- 
 ever, while we fat c.hearful together in the cot- 
 tage, the people of the village came in a body, and 
 afked my hoft if he would not this day fend me 
 
 t*
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. tft 
 
 to the king, that they might have the prefent 
 which they expected. He put them off by faying 
 that I was ftill very much fatigued, and muft have 
 time to reft myfelf. This pacified them for the 
 prefent, but they infifted that I fhould go on the 
 morrow, and fo it happened. By day -break there 
 came fix men to the door of the hut, who faid 
 they were ready to attend me. My hoft and his 
 daughter made themfelves ready, ?nd within an 
 hour we all fet out together. The road wr.s bad ; 
 lands, fragments of rocks, and buflies, made our 
 progrefs very flow. Early in the afternoon we 
 pafied the villages of Uhwoh and Matoh, befides 
 fome folitary huts, ar.d came afterwards to Ocy- 
 moroh, where more than an hundred perfons 
 came around us, out of curioRty to fee me. As 
 it was evening they would not then take me to 
 the king, but conducted me into a hut where one 
 fet of envious vifitors after another came all night 
 Ion 2f to fee me. 
 
 o 
 
 On the 2 1 ft, about mid-day, I was carried before 
 the king, and was by him graciouily received. 
 He was juft fetting out from home, and therefore 
 fpoke but few words to me. In the end, however, 
 he fiid, that I mud not remain long in this coun- 
 try ; that he fuppofed I was a Moor and came 
 with fome fecrct purpofe. Thofe who brought 
 B b 2 me
 
 37 2 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 me were thus disappointed of the reward they 
 had expected ; but. I was glad of the king's pur- 
 pofe in regard to me, as it was fo much better 
 than I expected ; and I was eager to fet out as 
 I could receive directions how to travel. I ftill 
 Tetained my intention of endeavouring to join 
 the caravan already mentioned, and of travelling 
 with it to Guinea, whence I might take my paffage 
 in a ChritHan fhip to Europe. I was then weary 
 of my journies, and fenfible that in travelling far- 
 ther through the inland country, I fhould have to 
 encounter numberlefs difficulties, I ftopped to gain 
 fome information ; and my enquiries were, in 
 many particulars, fatisfactorily anfwered. I had 
 been five days here, and no one took any particu- 
 lar care of me; but I fubhfted partly by begging, 
 and partly by the kindnefs of fome young women, 
 who out of affection fupplied me with four milk 
 and flour. I had no certain place where to pafs 
 the night; but flept one nigtt in one cottage, and 
 another night in another cottage, when I might fo 
 far prefume as to enter any of them. On the 26th 
 while the day was very hot, and moft of the people 
 were fainting with the heat, I laid myfelf down in 
 the {hade behind one of the cottages; not fufpect- 
 ihg that the fun would fpeedily {nine on that 
 place, aud fcorcii my head if I fhould fall afleep. 
 I did fall afleep; nor did I awake till 1 felt fome 
 
 perfon
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 373 
 
 perfon make me. I fprung up, and faw fume men 
 near me, and others looking on at a fmall diftance, 
 but I had then no fufpicion that they meant to 
 laugh at me. I was going to run off, but he 
 who ftood next me, held me faff, and faid that I 
 muft go with him to the King. The King, as he 
 was going to the river to bathe, had feen me aflcep, 
 in the fun, behind the hut; and aiking who I was, 
 had been told that I was a ftranger who had been 
 fome days in the place. He then ordered me to 
 be awakened and brought beforejiim. This order 
 was quite agreeable to me, as I expected now to 
 obtain his exprefs permiflion to proceed on my 
 journey. The King afked me how it happened 
 that I was here, when he had fuppefed me to have 
 been gone fome days. I anfwered,that I had de- 
 layed with a defign to reft myfelf after my fatigue, 
 and in hopes of having permiffion to continue my 
 journey through his dominions. He afked in re- 
 turn, who gave me perirnmon to come into his 
 country? " That permiflion no one could give me 
 but you; I came hither to find you, at my peril. ,, 
 - c I told you, when you were prefented to me, that 
 you muft leave my country as foon as poflible; yet 
 iiere you areftill, fo remain with my fervants till 
 { have time to talk further with you : for the pre- 
 sent, you may now come along." I followed him 
 to the river j and after we had bathed, came back 
 
 Bb 3 again
 
 374 
 
 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 again with him to his habitation. He then put 
 me into a hut beiide his own, faying, " remain 
 here till I give further orders concerning you." 
 This hut was the rendence of his flaves, who re- 
 ceived me very kindly. Here, for the ufual price, 
 I procured black meal and water, as alfo three 
 pieces of flclh dried in the fun, each of which was 
 about a finger's breadth. I was obliged to fleep 
 on the bare ground between two of the Haves, 
 from whom 1 caught inch a quantity of lice, that 
 1 could take them almoft in handfuls from my hair. 
 The flaves laughed to fee my anxiety to rid myielf 
 of them, faying it was labour in vain ; and that 
 the King himfelf, though he bathed every day, 
 was not quite free from them. My appointed talks 
 were to gather reeds and thorns for fuel, to at- 
 tend the King in the bath, and to afiift in the 
 fmithery. 
 
 My comrades, through mere icllenefs, and as 
 being the King's flaves, were above doing any 
 thing for their own fubfiftence. The difpofition is 
 common here to the flaves of the pricfts and offi- 
 cers of ftate, as well as to thofe belonging to the 
 King: yet, they may be fet to hard work at plea- 
 lure ; and they are never fure of not being fold to 
 fome foreign fiave-merchant, and tranfported to a 
 diitant land. If any flave-merchant had appeared 
 
 during
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 375 
 
 during -my ftay here, I fhould certainly have been 
 fold or bartered away as a Have. 
 
 A female flave had attached herfelf to me fince 
 my arrival, followed me every where,, and made 
 herfelf my companion at different forts of work. 
 With her I went on the 1 2th of October to bring 
 reeds to the King's huts: and as {he had hitherto 
 {hewn me fo much kindneis, I now let her know 
 that I had a deiire to make my efcape, afked her 
 help and advice, and offered either to take her 
 with me or to reward her amply. She agreed to 
 aflift and accompany me, and made preparations 
 for our departure. As my mantle of fkins was 
 very loufy, fhe made me an apron of palm-leaves, 
 and faved for me part of her daily allowance of 
 flefh, &c. On the 15th we were again at our 
 work together and alone, fhe then laid that all 
 was ready ; that we might let out next morning ; 
 and that I muft be in the way in good time, with- 
 out alarming my fellow Haves. I arofe earlier than 
 ufual, and came to the place appointed, where I 
 found her waiting. I thought we ought to fet out 
 immediately; but fhe firft afked what I would 
 give her for thus favouring my efcape: I gave 
 her three guilders; but required, that fhe fhould 
 at leaft accompany me over the river, to the moun- 
 tains of the moon. After forne hefitation, fhe took 
 B b 4 our
 
 376 TRAVELS IN THF, 
 
 cur baggage on her back, and bade me follow, 
 her. She led me by an eafy paflage over the 
 river; and we went on, bearing fometimes to the 
 light, fometimes to the left, that we might avoid 
 the villages. By mid-day we were at the foot of 
 the mountains, and my fears began to vanifh. 
 Here we once more took fome food together, and 
 then parted in fadnefs. For fix days fuftenance 
 1 had one pint of meal, four pints of water, and 
 about two pounds of flefh. Of money I ftill pof- 
 ieffed 27 guilders, and about 50 couries. I had 
 purchased from the good overfeer of the gold- 
 finders a fmali axe, which he fometimes gave me 
 to cut thirties. I with difficulty climbed the moun- 
 tain, and there palled the night, but without 
 kindiiug any fire, left it mould betray me. It was 
 ftill my intention to pafs to the kingdom of 
 Akomako, or Wangara; there to join the caravan 
 for Guinea, of which I have feveral times made 
 mention. I went on therefore, with the eager ex- 
 ertion of all myflrength: before day-break I was 
 again on my way; but I was foon obliged to halt, 
 becaufe I heard the hideous bowlings of lions in a 
 narrow pafiage by which I was to proceed. I fat 
 down on a pinnacle of a rock, and there waited 
 till they were gone. The mountain, feen from a 
 diftance, appeared to be but one great pointed rock, 
 it is, however, half an hour's walk over its fummit. 
 
 On
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 37Jt 
 
 On the left from the road was a gold mine un- 
 wrought ; but I went not near it, left I Ihould be 
 known, and fent back to the King. I wenf: on as 
 fail as I could, to reach the extremity of thofe 
 hills; though exceedingly fatigued and retarded 
 by fcrambling among the rocks. I was obliged 
 to hold, and even hang by my hands from rock 
 to rock, till I couM advance my feet to ftep upon 
 another. At a place where I was concealed among 
 thirties, grafs, and brufh-wood ; I halted to make 
 a lire, and roaft three crabs. When I had re- 
 frefhed myfelf with food, I ftr etched myielf down 
 before the fire, and flumbered uncertainly for fome 
 hours. 
 
 On the 19th in the forenoon, I travelled over a 
 fine plain: in the afternoon, I palled through a 
 tracl: of barren fand, in which however I found a 
 well. From the 20th to the 24th I law neither 
 wild beafts nor men, found neither water nor fruit, 
 but was obliged to pafs on with wearinefs and 
 hunger, over a fandy defart, on which fome fmall 
 hills were here and there difcerfed. Mv leathern 
 bottle was emptied of the water, and I found no 
 well at which I misfht fill it aeain: thirft made me 
 almofl fink down in defpair. On the 25th I came 
 to the borders of the kingdom, where I faw fome 
 cottages ranged in a ftraight line from eaft to 
 
 well.
 
 37& TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 weft : at the fight of thefe dwellings I did not long 
 hefitate whether I fhould approach them, my burn- 
 ing throat compelling me to enter that which I 
 firft reached. I afked for meal and water, but ob- 
 tained only fome brackifh water without meal. 
 The water produced a great commotion in my 
 ftomach; and I had hardly tafted it, when I felt 
 a general uneafinefs over my whole frame ; at Jaft 
 my ftomach entirely rejected it by vomiting. In 
 a fhort time curiofity brought a number of the 
 people about me ; none of them afked me any 
 queftions, but I was obliged to place myfelf in the 
 fituation they defired. At lad one that feemed to 
 be the chief among them took me by the hand, 
 conducted me to his hut, and there fupplied me 
 with meal and water ; I gave him a guilder, which 
 lie gladly received. For the prefent my hunger 
 and thirft were abundantly fatisfied; and when I 
 went away, he filled my bottle with water, and 
 gave me befides flour enough for two other meals. 
 I then croffed the borders, and in the evening came 
 to a hut in the country of the Womahanians. 
 
 CHAP.
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 37^ 
 
 CHAP. XT. 
 
 The Author's Arrival among the Womahanians Some 
 Account ofthefe People They receive him kindly , 
 and entertain him with Tyger's flejh He proceeds 
 on his Journey through Dayhamla, northward to the 
 Kingdom ofWohjagtam In this part of his Journey , 
 be falls in with the free and wandering Negroes on 
 the Borders, who are dijlinguifocd by the Name of 
 Caomuh Some Account of them, and of the Arts 
 they praclife The Author travels in Company 
 with them to their Habitations on the Borders of 
 Bahahara Short Hi/lory of their Nation On the 
 igth of November he goes with their Caravan for 
 Wangara, by the way of Wadgain, Ohwuto, Tomy^ 
 &c. He falls fick by the Way, is unable to keep up 
 with the Caravan, and remains behind Speedily 
 recovering, he travels by Tomy back to Tandoka and 
 Bahahara- In the loft of thefe places, he is for a 
 fhort time detained as a Slave ; but mending the 
 King's Arms, he isfet at Liberty; and with a Pafs 
 from the King goes to Rahoratho Defcription of 
 that Country and of its Capital City. 
 
 THE nation of the Womahanians fcarcely ex- 
 ceeds the number of three thoufand men able 
 bear arms. They are faithful to their chiefs, 
 
 generous,
 
 380 TRAVELS IN TH2 
 
 generous, frank, bold, and friendly. In manners 
 and cuftoms they have a near refemblance to the 
 great nation with which they are in alliance. They 
 are fometimes guilty of rapine and murder. The 
 oldeft men in the tribe are commonly both judges 
 and priefts, and are held in thehigheft veneration. 
 They are ufually accounted negroes, though' not of 
 negro defcent. They were formerly matters of a 
 different territory, from which they were expeHed 
 by a people more potent than themfelves. But 
 where that territory lies, and by what people they 
 were driven out of it, no one among them can 
 teO. 
 
 I was conducted to the chief of a fmall village, 
 ;md was by him kindly received, prefented with 
 milk and meal, and gratified with a good night's 
 lodging. I would have paid him with cowries, but 
 he would not accept them ; and faid, ' that it was 
 Jus duty to entertain travellers who ftood in need 
 of his afliftance.' He gave me, in the morning, a 
 prefent of meal and tyger's flefh, which I did not 
 refufe. He afterwards fhewed me fomediftance 
 on my way, and wifhed me a good journey. About 
 noon I reached the river Faham : it is fmall, but 
 its water is good, though of a reddifh colour. 
 Here I refted for fome hours, and devoured wkh 
 a good appetite a piece of my tyger's flefb, which is 
 
 in,
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 3S* 
 
 in fad better to the tafte than goat's flefli. For e- 
 veral days 1 had met with no trees, and i'eldom 
 even with a few Hunted fhrubs. But I now per- , 
 ceived fome line palm-trees, and faw fome wild ani- 
 mals. For a circumference of an hundred miles, 
 the lion is the chief beaft in the defart, yet he is 
 lefs terrible than men luppofe. When not pro- 
 voked he does not attack, but quietly fufFers the 
 traveller to pafs on. Before night I paffed within 
 light of three villages, but halting at none of them, 
 went on to Dayhamla, where I expected better 
 entertainment. Here I learned that if I w r ent north* 
 I mould arrive within three days on the borders of 
 the kingdom of Wohjagtam *. 
 
 On the 27th I crofted over a fmall mountain to 
 the north-weft, and came in the evening to a vil- 
 lage of the Womahanians. I was here kindly 
 treated, and went onward next day with the belt 
 wifhes of the inhabitants for my fafety. I was 
 fupplied with water and meal for two days to 
 come ; whicli was very fortunate for me, it being 
 fo long before I could again meet with either water 
 or fruits. 
 
 * I could not afcertain whether this be the kingdom called 
 Pauma on the maps. But Dauma is marked near the fpot where 
 Wohjagtam lies. Only Dauma goes on one hand farther to 
 the eaft, and oh another farther to the north. 
 
 On
 
 3&1 TRAVFLS IN THE 
 
 On the 28th and 29th, rvy journey was partly 
 through a track of underwood, and partly over a 
 fandy plain, and agreeably to what had been told 
 me by the people with wjiom I lodged on the night 
 of the 27th, I fawnot a iingle beaft of prey on 
 the road. 
 
 On the 29th in the evening, I made a fmall fire, 
 and gathered grafs for fuel to it. But I had 
 fcarcelylaid me down, when I heard the found of 
 human voices. I iay (till, liftened, and found, as 
 they came nearer, that there v/ere feveral perfons 
 in converfe together. When they were within a 
 few paces of me, I fpran'g up, and ftood before 
 them, but without fpeaking. They afked, " What 
 are you doing there ?" I anfwered, "I am keep- 
 ing up the lire to "frighten wild beaft s away." 
 " Who are you?" " An unfortunate travelling 
 ftranger." " How came yoU here ? where is your 
 houfe ?" I replied, as I had ufually done before, 
 that I was an Arab, and had been fhipwrecked. 
 When they heard that I underftood the language, 
 they alked me to go with them, and promifeu me, 
 on that condition, food and lodging. I left my 
 lire burning, and followed thern. We went on 
 for two hours, then flopped for the night at the 
 foot of a hill, in a cave that had been particularly 
 formed, and ate of what provifions they had with 
 
 them.
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 385 
 
 them. The perfbns were in number fix-and- 
 twenty, and were of the race of the negroes, who 
 live on the confines of the kingdom of Wohjagtajxi. 
 They are free, being fubject to no king, and carry 
 on a conhderable trade of barter between the coaft 
 and the remote inland country. From thePortu- 
 gueze, Englifh and French, on the coaft, they pro- 
 cure utenhls of iron, mirrors, Nuremberg wares, 
 &c. for which they give ivory, gold-duft,fkins,&c. 
 in exchange. They are generally favoured by all 
 nations with which they have intercourfe, are ne- 
 ver put under reftraints, nor are ever difturbed in 
 the enjoyment of their natural rights. They owe 
 thefe advantages to their poffefiions, the Europeans 
 being glad to obtain from them the natural pro- 
 ductions of the country ; and the kings in the in- 
 land parts being, on the other hand, well pleafed to 
 procure, through the hands of thefe negroes, look- 
 ing-glaffes, iron wares, beads, rings for the ears and 
 fingers, with various other things, in exchange for 
 their gold-duft. Whoever molefts them, if. they 
 complain of him to the kings, is always either put 
 to death or fold for a flave. They deal alfo in 
 flaves, which they bring for fale to the Euro- 
 peans on the coaft. They call themfelves Taomuh. 
 Their whole number does not exceed two thou- 
 fand perfons of both fexes. They would not be- 
 lieve but that I was a Chriftian ; yet did not treat 
 
 me
 
 3$4 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 me worfe on that account, as they were well ac- 
 quainted with Europeans. They expreffed their 
 readinefs to convey me to my countrymen, when 
 they mould next return to the coaft, or to the 
 ifland of Fernando, whence they were now com- 
 ing. I told them that this was not the neareft 
 way to my native country, but that I muft go far- 
 ther inland. With this they were well pleafed % 
 and they told me I might have an opportunity of 
 travelling alfo with them the very way I defired 
 to go. 
 
 On the 30th we reached the confines, and patted 
 the night between two ranges of hills on the river 
 Tron, in a part that divides the territories of three 
 different nations. On the weft-fide thofe hills ex- 
 tend into a part of the kingdom of Bahahara *, 
 which they divide from the kingdom of Wangaoa. 
 As the part of the mountain on the fouth-fide is 
 the boundary of the kingdom of Wohjagtam, 
 which is farther limited by the above-mentioned- 
 river. That river rifes from the lake Rihmaf 
 
 (Burnu) 
 
 . . 
 
 This kingdom hnsno placeon the map which I have in ray 
 hand. No geographer gives any account of it. According to 
 the account of the negroes, its name ought to be written Baha- 
 hara. 
 
 t This lake derives its waters from the river Niger, is about 
 a day and a half s journey in length, and four miles broad, and 
 
 has
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 385 
 
 (Burnu), and runs to the foutli-weft. By mid-day 
 we reached their tents, on the confines of Bahahara. 
 The inhabitants of the huts received me with ear- 
 ned joy and curiofity, fuppofing me to have come 
 with their friends from the ifland of Fernando. 
 When, however, thcv heard that I was not a 
 Chriftian, but an Arab, they became lefs civilly 
 difpofed towards me. At this I was furprized, 
 it being fo firikingly oppolite to the feelings and 
 conduct of other people of Africa on fuch an oc- 
 cafion. But I learned that the Arabs and Moors 
 were fworn enemies to the trade of thefe negroes. 
 From this place goes every year a great caravan, 
 which in twenty clays paiTes the kingdom of Furno, 
 and has frequent contentions with the Moors by 
 the way. The attendants of the caravan go armed 
 and on horfbback. I now heard, though my com- 
 rades had talked differently, that a caravan was 
 foon to fet out for Wangara, there to difpofe of 
 the goods which they had brought from the. ifland 
 of Fernando. Upon further enquiry I learned, 
 that I might, without any material inconvenience 
 
 has three coniiderable rivers which take their rife from it. 
 l.The Kahmgtho, running to the fouth-eaft. 2. The Trangoht, 
 which runs fouth-weft. And 3d, The Gambaru, which ,takes 
 its courfe to the eaft. Bef.de thefe three rivers, this lake "feeds 
 a number of fmaller ftreams, which are, however, often dry. 
 
 Cc to
 
 3 86 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 to nyfelf, travel with that caravan ^.^np^ bolides 
 in their company, I might pais the river Niger, 
 over which it would be impoflible for me to go 
 alone. I therefore aiked thofe who were going on 
 this journey, to allow me to accompany them. 
 They were not willing ; but faid, that when I 
 ihould have arrived with them in Wangara, I 
 fhould fooa fall into the hands of the robbers of 
 thofc parts, who would fell me for a flave. This 
 did not hinder me from alluring them that I was 
 willing to go with tliem, and to take my chance as 
 to whatever might be my fate. 
 
 This ihiall nation is mucli more civilized than 
 moft others, carrying on an intercourie with the 
 Europeans, cultivating the ground, and furnifhing 
 itfelf with annual ftores, Lc. The goats of this 
 country are remarkably large and tat,becaufe they 
 are wdl fed and kept in the ftate of domefticated 
 animals. This nation once inhabited a different part 
 of the country, where they lived in iubjection to 
 the King of Ilaouila. Thence they were expelled 
 by the Moors of thofe parts. They came lull to 
 Tambucta ; and not thinking thcmlelves in. that 
 place luriiciently feeurc, retired to this country 
 whvre they now live in tranquillity and fafety. 
 
 
 On the 9th of November there fet out on the 
 
 intended journey an hundred and forty am 
 
 men
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 387 
 
 men on horfeback, I following them on foot. At 
 noon we reached the village of Wadgaju, where 
 we refrefhed ourfelves and the horfes with food. 
 That I might not be left behind by the caravan, I 
 afked one of the company if he would allow me 
 to ride his pack-horfe ; and he gladly agreed to 
 the propofal. After we had left the village which 
 belongs to the kingdom of Bahahara, or Baha- 
 hora, we were obliged to alight from the horfes, 
 and to drive them before us over a fteep hill. I 
 now learned that we were not travelling by the 
 accuftomed road, which led for the fpace of twenty 
 or four and twenty German miles acrofs a coun- 
 try, in palling which it would have been neceffary 
 to carry with us much forage for the horfes. 
 
 On the 10th, we travelled all day, either over 
 or between hills. About noon we, came to the 
 village of Ohwuto. It confifts of about eighty 
 huts, and is inhabited by negroes. Thefe people 
 raife on their hills melons and gourds, fome of 
 which we procured, but not without paying very 
 dear for them. We continued our journey to the 
 north-eaft, and came to two poor villages, where 
 we could procure nothing, and were obliged to 
 pais the night in the open air. 
 
 C c 2 O4
 
 388 Travels in the 
 
 On the nth, we had the mountains at a fmali 
 diftance from us ; and till the 16th continued our 
 journey along a good level way, without coming 
 to any villages. 
 
 On the 1 5th we reached the village of Yomy. 
 On the preceding day feveral perfons from the 
 caravan had gone, on account of their traffic, to 
 Mooha, a fmall town in the kingdom of Wangara^ 
 Thefe fent a meffage, on the evening of the 1 6th, 
 to inform us, that they were going to the other 
 fide of the lake Burnu, and hoped to rejoin us in 
 Wangara. 
 
 We were this evening to ride over a part of 
 the mountain ; and though it was dark, I having 
 neither faddle nor pad on the back of my horfe, 
 was unable to continue my journey with the com- 
 pany. If I rode quick, I fell from my feat, and 
 when I rode flowly, my companions told me that , 
 I muft ride falter, and keep up with them. As I 
 had fallen feveral times from the horfe, and was 
 coniiderably hurt, I at laft told my companions, 
 that I could no longer keep up with them, but 
 would continue my journey on foot. This they 
 would not agree to. They faid that thefe moun- 
 tains fwarmed with robbers and beails of prey. 
 
 They
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 389 
 
 'fhey therefore put me by force on horfeback 
 again, and two of the beft riders were directed 
 to keep near me. We then proceeded with re- 
 newed fpeed, and by day -break we reached Fahja. 
 ['here relumed. my intention of flopping, becaufe 
 I found myfelf unable to (land, and was fore all 
 over my body. However, after we had taken ' 
 fome hours reft, I was obliged again to get on 
 horfeback, and go on. Scarcely had the horfe 
 bepun to move, when I was fliaken from his back, 
 and fell lenfelefs to the ground. Having revived,. 
 I found myfelf in the cottage of a good-hearted 
 negro, who told me that my comrades were gone 
 on, but had left fome meal and dried flem for my 
 ufe. I could neither. walk nor ftand, and at laft 
 found myfelf in a fever. I lay in defpair on' 
 the ftraw, and more than once wifhed for- death. 
 I had befides been brought out of the dwelling- 
 iioufe to the hut in which the goats lay. Fever 
 is there unknown ; and when the good people faw 
 me writhe my body under it, they thought I was . 
 ill of a peftilential difeafe. Yet they did not 
 wholly defert me. A humane negro, feeing me 
 drink a great deal of water, prepared me a decoc- 
 tion from roots and green leaves, which, though 
 difagreeably bitter, threw me into -fweating and 
 ileep, by which I was much refrelhed. For twelve 
 days I had twice a day a lit of the fever. And I 
 C c 3 believe
 
 390 TRAVELS IN HIE 
 
 believe that my recovery, was chiefly owing to the 
 favourable efficacy of the negro's decoclion. 
 
 By converting with the people who came about 
 me, I learned that the way to Wangara was very 
 unfafe; that there were robbers in the defart 
 through which we muftpafs to it; and that Wan : 
 gara was not fo large and fine a place as I had fup- 
 pofed. On the whole I concluded, that I could 
 not now do better than turn back for a few. 
 miles, and take the road to Bahahara. 
 
 For my lodging and the little provision I had 
 taken here, I gave the good-natured negro two, 
 florins, for which he returned me hearty thanks, 
 and prefented me with meal and a fine melon. As 
 I went out, he was alfo ready, and conducted me 
 over the mountain that I had pafTed the night be- 
 fore. At mid-day I came again to Yomy, ob- 
 tained there milk and meal from my old hoft, and 
 then travelled farther to the north-weft. 
 
 . 
 During the two next days I faw no huts, but 
 had a tolerable road, and found fruits of all kinds, 
 as well as here and there good fprings. This coun- 
 try fwarms with oftriches, whofe eggs arc a Secu- 
 rity to the traveller for a good dinner. 
 
 About
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 39I 
 
 About five in the evening I reached fourteen ill* 
 built huts, where the inhabitants were dancing on 
 the fcaft day, and obtained permiflion to ftay with 
 them. Without having ate or drank, I threw 
 myfelf down behind a hut, and flept till the next 
 morning, when I found myfelf covered with a 
 goat's fkin. A young man brought me flefh, 
 meal and milk, converted with me whilft I was 
 eating, and imparted to me very good tidings. 
 When I had told him that I was from Syria, (for 
 I changed the name of my country, left the fame 
 accident mould befal me as had done a little time 
 before) he faid, that when I came to Bahahara I 
 fkould find the caravans that were come from Sy- 
 ria. I thanked him for the news, and afked him 
 what I was to pay for my eating ? He replied, that 
 they never permitted ftrangers to pay here for any 
 thing. He went away again, but ran back foon, 
 bringing the agreeable intelligence that two inha- 
 bitants of the place were travelling to Wohmy to 
 fetch fait, whom I might, if I thought proper, ac- 
 company. 
 
 On the 8th, I let off with thefe people : we tra- 
 velled over a beautiful plain, but were very much 
 opprefled by the heat, and arrived exceflivcly fa- 
 tigued at a village. At the firft huts we begged 
 for a night's lodging, and obtained our requeft 
 C c 4 immediately,
 
 32 TRAVELS IN Tj#r... 
 
 immediately, but we found a very poor holt, who, 
 could not let us have, even for our money, either 
 victuals or drink. We gave lrim money, there- 
 fore, and fent him to the Dorifata, or judge, to 
 buy fome provifions of him. He foon brought 
 back fiefh, meal, and alio the money. We were 
 furprifed ; but he told us, that the Dorifata had 
 charged him to fay, that benevolence and hofpita- 
 lity fhbuld be exercifed towards ftrangers, that he 
 could not accept of payment, but that he mould 
 be happy to fee his guefts if they could come to 
 him for a few minutes. We vifited him next 
 morning, and then travelled three leagues farther 
 over eminences and hills, to Yandoka, a hamlet 
 with about two hundred houfes. Here Tbreak- 
 fafted once more with my companions, of whom, 
 as they were to ftay here, I took leave, and pro- 
 ceeded on my journey alone. I foon reached a 
 mountain that might be* about fix leagues in 
 length, and covered with date and cotton trees. 
 Upon this mountain I ftopped, as I found that I 
 could not for feveral hours reach the city of Baha- 
 hara. 
 
 On the icth, in the forenoon, i Came to the 
 above-mentioned city, where I was inftautly taken 
 into cuftody by fix foljicrs, and carried to the 
 King's refidence. He fent word to the guard that 
 
 as
 
 JN?E4U0R OF AFRICA. 393 
 
 is he could not fpeak with me this day, they 
 fliould convey me back again, and take good care 
 of me. They brought me to a goat hovel, and 
 gave me food in abundance. On the next morn- 
 ing an order came to carry me to the King. I fol- 
 lowed, and was introduced to him. As I entered, 
 feveral queftions were propofed to me by one of 
 his Minifters,* fuch as thefe : Why I was come intg 
 the country ? Whether I had brought any prefents 
 for the King ? Whither I was going ?. and, Whe- 
 ther I was a chriftian? I replied, I confidered my 
 molt direct and fafeft road to be through this, 
 country. I am an unfortunate feaman, who has 
 toft ail his goods, and not a chriftian. I defire no 
 afliftance, except a night's, lodging, and, if conve* 
 nient, meat and drink for a day : but if my pre- 
 fence is difagreeable to the King, I am ready to 
 leave the town immediately. I obtained per miflion 
 to ftay, as the King himielf intended to fpeak to ( 
 me, was then re-conducted to my hut, and provid- 
 ed with victuals and drink. Mere I was very well 
 off tili the 14th : I ate, drank, and flept; but now 
 
 * The King underftood my language, but his ideas of great- 
 nefs obliged him to ipeak to me through the Minifter ; he only 
 iptaks by word of mouth to the officers and grandees of his 
 court. It was a very great proof of royal favour and conde- 
 fcenfion that he afterwards entered into perfonal converfatioa 
 with me. 
 
 .my
 
 *94 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 my condition was altered. An officer fetched ant! 
 carried me to the Haves' huts, where I wafr'obhVcd, 
 next morning, to get up very early, and, on the 
 command of the overfeer, to feed the horfes, then 
 beat the dates, and at laft carry the hunting imple- 
 mentSyVhich were a fpear, two fufds, and a water- 
 veflel, to the wood. This was my occupation for 
 a few days only, for as I was once carrying the 
 King's fufils to the wood, I examined them atten- 
 tively. The King obferving this* afked me what 
 I was looking at. I replied, to fee whether I 
 could not repair them, as they were at prefent m 
 a bad ftate. The lock had probably not been 
 cleaned out or oiled for feveral years, and was co- 
 vered all over with raft. The King, after look- 
 ing earneftly at me, afked, whether I would put 
 his arms into a better condition 2 and on my con- 
 senting, he told me, that I mould, on that very 
 day, have another dwelling, and better accommo- 
 dations. 
 
 It has been mentioned before, that there are 
 people travelling round Bahahara and the neigh- 
 bouring countries, whofe employment is to clean 
 and repair fire-arms ; and it may hence be fup- 
 pofed that I fhould find but little occupation. ThQ 
 following relation will rectify this miftake ; 
 
 -. 
 
 on}e
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 395 
 
 $ome years before my arrival, the King of Ha- 
 oufia declared war againft the King of Bahahara, 
 ad did him confiderable injury. The gunfmiths, 
 as I may here call them, had juft at that time put 
 in good order the arms of' the laft King, and were 
 on the point of travelling farther. The King if- 
 fued an order that they mould not depart, but re- 
 main at fcis reiidence, left they fhouid clean and 
 repair the arms of his enemy. But as they would 
 fct off, after this order, fmce nothing more was 
 to be gained in the place, the King ordered them 
 to be taken up, caft into prifcn, and kept there 
 till the war was ended. From that time they 
 would never fet foot again in the kingdom, though 
 the King gave them every pofiible aiTurance of fe- 
 curity. 
 
 On the fame evening a roomy hut was prepared 
 for me near the King's palace. I had victuals and 
 drink whenever I required either, and a Have to 
 wait on me. I now took my own time, worked 
 at my leifure, but made myfelf of great impor- 
 tance by my work. On the third day I prefented 
 to the King the firft piece that I had repaired, was 
 praiied to the ikies, and difmifled with aHurances 
 of royal favour. A fhort time after* I was called 
 again to the King, and inftrucled to clean and re- 
 pair all the fpldiers' pieces, and tq teach a few fol- 
 
 dier*
 
 jqS. f TRAVELS IN THE | 
 
 diers how they might manage- their arms them- 
 felves. With refpecl to the firft point, it was imv 
 poflible for me to give a fatisfact-ory anfwer, but 
 I reprefented to the King that as I could hot make 
 new locks and firings, I could not ' repair all, 
 though I could mcft of the foldiers' arms. He 
 condefcended to accept my reprefentations, and 
 defired me to do only what was poilibfc, as the 
 arms might ftill be ufed without lock or fpring. 
 I enquired fome time after how this was done, 
 and learned that the foldicrs who went with fuch 
 arms into the field, held either a_ lighted match or 
 a coal to the pan, and thus fired their gum. 
 
 M/ time pafied now very pleafarrtry ; ' I worked* 
 when I chofe, and at leilure hours walked about; 
 the town, both to form acquaintance, and to learn 
 the manners, cuftoms andufages. of the country. 
 Very often I accompanied the king to the chace, 
 and thus enjoyed a great deal of diverfion. The 
 kind would frequently prefs me to take a wife, 
 and he did not feem diiinclined to refign to me 
 one of his four hundred concubines ; but I excuied 
 mielf, by faying, that I had already in my own 
 country a wife and three children, whom with his 
 perminlon I would fetch and bring back with mc 
 into -his dominions. At the beginning of March, 
 1788, the King informed me,, that the time drew 
 
 near t
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 397 
 
 siear, when, on account of the badnefi oi the water 
 at this feafon, lie mould leave Bahahara and retire to 
 Zoffo, where a canal, derived from the river Gam- 
 bia, fupplied the place with good and freili water. 
 I could eafily perceive that I was to accompany 
 him, but I was determined, either with his leave, 
 or privately, to proceed on my journey. Two 
 days before the King's departure I received actual 
 orders to prepare for the journey, and to accom- 
 pany his majefty. I thanked the King for his order 
 and his confidence, bilt petitioned, at the fame 
 time, that he would permit me to prepare for my 
 journey home, that I might be able to return 
 to him before the rainy feafon. " How many 
 days journey," faid the king, " are there to your 
 houfe ?" " More than thirty," I replied. " You 
 fhall then have two trufty perfons to accompany 
 you thither and back again." " Your gracious 
 favour," I anfwered, " I cannot except, partly be- 
 caufe it would be impoflible for me to keep thefe 
 perfons on my "journey, and partly becauie their 
 arrival in my country would be much talked of, 
 and might move the King to ilvs.it me in prifon, to 
 prevent me from returning : for I am under the 
 neceiHty of keeping my own King's- guns in order, 
 and cannot therefore come away by day, but muft 
 take an opportunity of getting; out of the country 
 privately by night, to come hither again." On this 
 
 reprefentatioa
 
 39$ TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 
 reprefentation I obtained permiflion in a fhort tim* 
 *o leave the country. On the 13th we marched 
 out of Bahahara with the whole court, that is, 
 with twenty priefts, four hundred men on foot, 
 two hundred on horfeback, and about a hundred 
 of the King's wives. 
 
 Bahahara is about a league in length, and three 
 quarters of a league in breadth, contains few houfes^ 
 but a great many huts conftruc*ted with -ftraw and 
 palm leaves, and plaiftered around with mud.--^ 
 The town is furrounded with double pallifadoes* 
 contains a hundred temples, as wretchedly built 
 almoft as the huts, and four ftreets* for the huts 
 are placed in five rows. The palace is, as well 
 as the other houfes, only one ftory high, but 
 very extenfive, for it occupies a fixth part of the 
 town. It Is furrounded by a wall, built with flints 
 andftones, five feet high, and three feet wide, but 
 of very irregular conftruction. In the court-yard 
 (hind nine feparate buildings, in which refide the 
 priefts, the concubines, and the officers. On the 
 north fide of it is a quadrangle, furrounded with 
 ftones, in which the horfes of the nightly guard 
 ftand at night. The king's refidence is on the 
 fouthiide, and conftfts of four apartments, which 
 might be taken for ftables. One of them I plaif- 
 ttrtd with mud, and painted witk a green colour, 
 
 drawn
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 399 
 
 drawn from young palm leaves and tamarind juice, 
 which afforded the king inconceiveable pleafure. 
 There are two market-places in the town, the one 
 near the palace for fruits and corn, the other on 
 the well iide of the town for nfh, fowl and cattle- 
 The traders, of whom there are ten or twelve, 
 have the Mondays and Wednefdays, acccrding to 
 our diviiion of the week, for trading days, on 
 which they hang up their wares for fale-on poles 
 ranged in order. There are alfo tv/o yearly mar T 
 kets, frequented by foreign traders, from the di 
 tance of twenty days journey : but as neither of 
 them was kept during my flay in the kingdom, I 
 can fay nothing further about them. 
 
 Our march t>ut of the town and over the moun- 
 tain was very flow, yet 1 could not conveniently 
 keep up with it , for though I had the honour of 
 going in the firft ranks, yet as I was laden with, 
 two fufils, a veiTel in which were three pots of 
 water, fome pieces of flefli, two tortoifes and very* 
 nearly a bumel of meal, and as the weather: was 
 exceedingly hot, I was obliged to fit down upon a 
 {tone. My comrades laughed at me, but were 
 rebuked by the commanding officer, who thought 
 that I was ill, and inftantly announced it to the 
 King. By his order my two fufils were taken 
 from me, and a horfe was given, me*, on which, i 
 
 foon
 
 40O TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 foon recovered myfelf. In the afternoon we ar- 
 rived at Kaharatho, where we found huts pre- 
 pared and every thing in order : twenty men had 
 been fent three days before to make the necef- 
 iarv preparations. 
 
 T r i \ r i I r i >> 
 
 Kaharatho icarcely deierves the name of a town, 
 for the huts are very ill conftrucled, and the in- 
 habitants are too lazy to procure fuijident wood, 
 though it is only two leagues from them. Hence 
 they live in halt tumbling huts, or frequently, as 
 I have feen, day and night in the open air. This 
 place is iituated on a large plain, through which 
 runs the above-mentioned canal. At a diftance 
 beyond the plain are mountains, with fruit-trees of 
 every kind, on whofe fruit the inhabitants live all 
 the year through. Fifh, land and water tortoife, 
 and fowl of all kinds, are found here in great 
 
 Before I continue my narrative, let me here in- 
 
 made, during: my ftay in it, adual obfervations. 
 
 ^i m - i 
 
 This kmcraom is nine davs lournev from Man 
 gara eaftward, and twelve days journey weRward 
 frcWrt Tahtbnko. Its length from eaft rtrwett is 
 
 * ' *bout ' 
 
 .
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 401 
 
 about fix days journey, and from north to fouth 
 three days journey and a half. It contains three 
 cities, Bahahara, the metropolis, which is in the 
 heart of the country : Mahoora, on the weftern 
 fide, and Kahoratho, on the north-eaft, about a 
 day's journey from the metropolis. The foil is 
 fruitful, and is here and there cultivated. There 
 are wild and tame animals, and fifti in very great 
 abundance. The Gambia flows through a part of 
 the country to the north-eaft, and carries off the 
 water of two firiall lakes. On the mountains, 
 which go through the country, from the eaft to 
 the north-weft, there are many fruit-trees, among 
 which the date tree is the principal : and the val- 
 iies produce good pafture for horfes, oxen and 
 goats. In the waters and rivers of this country, 
 there are, as geographers maintain, crocodiles. Of 
 the manners, cuftoms, and ufages of this nation 
 little need be faid, and even that may be thought 
 fuperfluous, fince fo many perfons have defcribed 
 the manners and cuftoms of the negro flaves, who 
 are carried into Afia and America, and make an 
 article of trade in this as well as the neighbouring 
 countries. The King is fupreme, his fubjects are 
 at his difpofal, fo much fo, that he may even fell 
 them.* Next to him in importance are the priefts, 
 
 * Many of his fubje<5ts, when they cannot find fupport in 
 
 tfieir villages, betake themfelves to the Kjng, and work as flavca 
 
 Dd for
 
 402 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 but they cannot oppofe the King in any thing. 
 after he lias decreed it. In every village there is 
 a Dorifata, fuperintendant, or judge, appointed 
 always by the King himfelf. Each town has three 
 judges : in general officers, who if they ftand well 
 in the King's favour, very often decide at their 
 own difcretion. The King's forces confift of fix- 
 teen thoufand infantry, and three thoufand ca- 
 valry. The latter are in very bad condition, they 
 have neither bridles nor faddles for their horfes, 
 but to guide them ufe a few {traps. There is a 
 traffic in dates, cotton and fkins, to Syomohatony, 
 fix days journey from Tamfiuko, and ftill farther 
 by water and in caravans. 
 
 for their living, but they are in general fold to the flave-dealer 
 to make room for others, 

 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 403 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Journey of the Author from >Kahor<atbo through the Vil- 
 lages Abatamy, Gahmech, and a Country without 
 Water Dcfcription of the Bijong-fruit Arrival of 
 the Author at thefirjl Border-village of the Kingdom 
 of Houffa, where he is very ill-treated by the Samty- 
 goetys, a Nation of Robbers, one of xvhom^ however, 
 protects him, andfeis him forward to the Gambouru, 
 or River Niger r-The Author comes to the Village 
 Congao, where he isfeized and conveyed to Houffa, 
 the Metropolis At Houffa he is conducted to the 
 King, and taken by him into the Royal Service 
 Some envious Perfons try to ruin him in the 
 King's Favour ; but he Jircngthcns himfelf in his 
 Friendjhip, by performing fomc Carpenters and Smiths 
 Work Remarkable Example of the King's great 
 Love of*J>flice, by which the Author cfcapes from 
 Danger Bv his Acquaintance in the Town, the Au- 
 thor gains Information refpecling the neighbouring 
 Nations , and makes himfelf -acquainted with the Road 
 to Great Barbary Dcfcription of the War between 
 the King of Houffa and the King of Wangara The 
 Houjfans prefs on to Wangara, the Metropolis, and 
 take it The Author is an Eye-wit?iefs of the Battle 
 Dd 2 Conditions
 
 404 TRAVELS IN TH 
 
 Conditions, of Peace Dcfcription of 'the City of 
 Wangara Return to Houffa-> < The Author cf capes 
 , out of t Jj is Kingdom, and turns towards the Kingdom 
 n $jfefflgdiUl$fifi '^J at a diflance of three Days 
 journey and a Quarter An ample Dcfcription of 
 Houfja and the Royal Refidcnce The Author tra- 
 vels, as a Gunfmithy through the 1'illagcs cf Jelly 
 and Pygqebjity to Fccne, inhere he repairs Arms, 
 for which he is ivcll maintained and paid Here he 
 lives J?ft.fb/lonths very happily, and then travels to 
 SUM,, with biftruments, Cloaths, and Prov[fion i 
 being furnifocd -with Letters of Recommendation, in 
 afmall Caravan of the Country. 
 
 lb i 
 ^N the 17th of March I proceeded on my jour- 
 ney. The King .made me a prefent of two 
 hundred fheJls and fomc provifions, and ordered 
 two guides to attend me. I turned to the north- 
 i.iilo\er a mountain, bordering on the plain, in 
 \yhich Cahoratho is lituated. I Hopped a little 
 time only in Abatamy, but pailcd tfie night at 
 Gahmeeh, where my guides left me. On the fol- 
 iowing day 1 did not Gnd a lingle village -in my 
 road, and my lodging for the night was on a marp- 
 pointed rock. Both here and farther on there was 
 abundance of fruits and eatable routs, but there 
 was a great want of water. 1 {Lurched theyallies, 
 and the ckft. in the rocks, but not a drop, of water 
 
 was
 
 INTERIOR" OF AFRICA. 405 
 
 was to be found ; fo that I was forced to travel on 
 to the 23d without feeing an individual, or obtain- 
 ing any water. On that day I faw a fcwhuis. and 
 joyfully haftened to them, but found ? them unin- 
 habited. The inhabitants had forfaken them- on 
 account of the want of water, and had taken up 
 their reiidence for fome time in another part of the 
 country. Hence I turned more to the eaft than 
 to the north, to go round a mountain which was 
 to the north of me, and came about evening to a 
 beautiful wood, where I found all forts of fruit, 
 particularly the bijong,* with which I fatisfied my 
 hunger and quenched my thirft. I made a fire and 
 laid myfelf down by it, but was difturbed in an 
 hour by the yilit of fix men, who had been fitting 
 not far from me, and on feeing the fire, had come 
 forward to examine by whom it was lighted. 
 They {ct tiiemfelyes down by mc, and informed 
 me they were the inhabitants of the huts which I 
 had found forfaken, and that they had made other 
 
 * This fruit is like quinces, has a red colour, fvveet tafle, and 
 is of the fize of a hen's egg. The inlide, which is of a pale 
 red and meal}", lias no feed in it. The tree producing this fruit 
 has a white bark, large circular leaves, and ftrong branches like 
 our oaks. The inhabitants of the country make mats of the 
 leaves for the covering of their huts; they dry the fruit in the 
 iun, (crape them fine, and make cakes of their duft. 
 
 D d 3 huts
 
 406 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 huts behind the wood, and were come hither to 
 gather fruit. They remained with me, and in 
 the morning I followed them to their huts, where 
 the firft thing I afked for was water, which I ob- 
 tained in abundance. It was brought from the 
 river Gambouru*, k% a little diftance from the huts. 
 Here I enquired which road I mould take, what 
 nations I ihould find, and whether I could travel 
 fafely. They advifed me to keep on the north fide, 
 and I followed their directions. A little hill was 
 before me, which I afcended, and here I found fo 
 many fcorpions,that at every ftep I trodonfomeof 
 them. I had turned a little too far to the north- 
 weft, and about evening came to a village, which I 
 might have reached by noon. As I faw no inha- 
 bitants before the huts, I prefumed that they were 
 forfaken, and was going into one of them ;,but on 
 my ftepping in, two negroes jumped up and made 
 an attack on me. I cried out, I ran, but they did not 
 defift till they had knocked me down, and then 
 they quitted me. As foon as I had a little reco- 
 vered, I took courage and limped flowly on to ano- 
 ther hut. Here I found a young girl, who feemed 
 to take pity on me. I fhewed her my back and 
 my loins, which were bloody, feized her hand, and 
 
 * This is the river Niger, which here goes by a ciiff'uer.t 
 pamc, 
 
 made;
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 407 
 
 made every gefture to excite compaflion ; for nei- 
 ther the girl nor the barbarians, who had Ill-treated 
 me, underftood my language. She pointed to mc 
 to ftay where I was, then ran out, fetched her fa- 
 ther, and brought me in a piece of dried flefh. The 
 old man fpoke a few words to his daughter, and 
 questioned me by figns, whence I came, whither I 
 was going, and what I wiflied to have? He winked 
 at me, but his daughter took me by the hand and 
 led me to the hut. All the inhabitants now aflem- 
 blcd, fome making figns, as if they would again 
 beat me ; but the old man prevented them, and 
 led me into the hut, where I fpent the evening, with 
 n'o ftnall anxiety for the future. Before the other 
 inhabitants of the village were up, the old man 
 conducted me to the river and ferried me over in a 
 boat, made of two trees, ftripped of the bark and 
 tied together. 
 
 This village, as I learned afterwards, does not 
 belong to the kingdom of Bahahara, but to HouiTa, 
 The inhabitants being borderers, they are for the 
 moft part robbers, living firfl at one place then at 
 another, and are called Samty-goety. They were 
 formerly fubjecls of the kingdom of -Gratulagi 
 (Kaugha), but were thence driven away on ac- 
 count of their robberies. They 'pofTefs no cattle, 
 have no knowledge of agriculture, and rnufc lead 
 
 D d 4 miferable
 
 408 TRAVELS IN THE , 
 
 miferabk lives ; for they never fpt out, on tlieiffi 
 plundering excuruons, till they are compelled by 
 hunger. The Hpuflans, to whom I came after- 
 wards, were much aftoniihed that I had efcaped fa 
 well from theie robbers ; for travellers, they told 
 me, were frequently murdered by them. Their 
 
 number amounts to fifteen hundred fouls, Thev 
 
 * 
 
 give themfelves no trouble to bring up children^ 
 but fell them, and fteal others in their ftead who 
 are grown up, iilT 
 
 '- 
 On the 26th I faw two more, villages, but I avoid- 
 ed them, affuaged my hunger, with fruit, and, at 
 night, flept in a tree, that I might not fall a prey to 
 the lions, whom I heard roaring on all fides. 
 
 After a walk of fome hours, I came to Congao, 
 a village inhabited bj HoufTans, who would have 
 prohibited my entrance, on a fufpicibn, ; tfrat I 
 was the forerunner of the .ilave-ftcalcrSk . When 
 they heard, however, that I could not fpeak their 
 language, and therefore could not be one of the 
 robbers, they conducted me to a goats' hovel, 
 where, whilft they were foddering the goats, I got 
 fome meal and milk. Whop the gpats were 
 driven out the next morning, I would have quit- 
 ted the hut, but was thiuft back, and the door 
 barred againft me. Al?out mid-day, an old man j 
 
 opened
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 439 
 
 .opened the door, looked at me Attentively ', and 
 thenbyfigns ordered me to follow hjmi' When 
 we came to his hut, I found there about an hun- 
 dred men collected, who queftioned me by frgns 
 jvhither I was going, whether I had money, &C 
 $cc^ I endeavoured by figns to anfwer thefe 
 queftions, and to excite their companion, ihewed 
 f hem my back and my loins, which were black and 
 blue, from the blows 1 had received from the rob- 
 bers. This produced an erTecl, for they brought 
 me fome tortoife, milk, meal, and fruits j but 
 in an hour after I was obliged to return back to my 
 hovel. 
 
 On the 28th of March, before day-break, four 
 men armed with fpears came to my hovel, gave 
 me meal and water, with which I filled my bottle, 
 and then ordered me to follow them. As refiftance 
 would have been vain, I took up my little baggage 
 and followed them. We {ravelled to the ncrth- 
 eaft over a plain, where we fawfome fcattefed vil- 
 lages, but did not go near them. At mid-day we 
 refted by . a lake, that had been dried *v p ;- then 
 afcendeda mountain cov>rii with -fruit tr&s and 
 long grafs, and on the other fider came 'do^n to 
 Joomako, a village containing forty-fou'f'* huts, 
 where we paffed the night together in the 1 fame 
 )iut. By the appearance and geftures of the inha- 
 bitants,
 
 41 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 bitants, I could perceive that they pitied me, and* 
 they gave me to underftand that I mould have no 
 reafon to complain of my deftiny. I was fo ex- 
 ceedingly tired, that I could not take a morfel of 
 food, which was brought in great abundance, but 
 fell afleep. Early in the morning we continued 
 our journey, but I was foon obliged to fit on the 
 ground, as my feet were fore, and the nfegr 
 walked very fait. They had pity on my fituation, 
 made bandages for my feet, and walked flower. 1 
 followed and kept up with them till the evening. 
 J\t the fourth village we came to this day, we took 
 up our quarters for the night, and foon went to 
 fleep. This village, called Zooto, coniifts of about 
 flxty huts, and is fituated on a fruitful plain, about 
 three leagues from the river Niger; and here barley, 
 Indian corn , and gourds are raifed. On the next 
 morning they gave me fome ointment for my 
 fwclled feet, and out of companion for me, refted 
 till mid-day, when a dinner was got ready for u>, 
 
 confifting of gourde drefled in Okonnota faucc . 
 
 i 1 , hj , ... , i | ,. 
 
 * This faucc is of a pale green colour, and is made from 
 berries, about the iizc cf our chenics. They are puffed, and 
 then the Juice is boiled to a fyrup that is not ill tafted, This 
 fjrup is nfed inftead of butter or grcafe, in cakes and other 
 things, The tree, which produces the berries, is like the iir 
 tcee, and, from the bottom to the top, (hoots out bra:;chcs and 
 leaves obliquc'v. It bears the whole rear round both bloilbm. 
 
 .Jit. 
 
 This
 
 IN rjb'Riou of avrica. 4ii- 
 
 This diih is confidercd as a very great delicacy* 
 but I was not fond or it, for it melted before I 
 could get a morfel into my mouth. 
 
 After dinner we fet off again and climbed -a 
 ftnali mountain, from whofe top we law a btav.fi- 
 ful plain lying below us, with Houffa at a diitatice 
 in the back ground, and near to us the great river, 
 the Niger. Here the country feemed to be en- 
 tirely changed : as flu* as the eye could reach, 1 
 faw huts, houfes, charming groves, paftures -v/itli 
 goats, horfes and camels; belidesmen on foot and 
 on horfeback, engaged in various employments. 
 This fpot, I nvay fairly affert to be one of the moil 
 beautiful countries, or rather the moil: beautiful 
 country in all Africa, it was a good hour's walk 
 from the hill to the Niger, which we intended to 
 pais over ; but fix Moors in the Oftkatho, or ferry- 
 houfc, gave a prohibition to the ferrymen, would 
 have lint my conductors back, and detained my- 
 feif. While they were queftioning me, as I did not 
 underiland their language,! could make no anfwer, 
 but remained lilent. This ftrengJiened their 
 opinion that I was a Chriilian; and they told my 
 conductors, as I was altcrwards informed, that 
 they would not permit me to enter into the city. 
 JVly comrades would willingly have had me lent 
 }}*cL again, but the reward would then be loft
 
 ***. -TRAVFI.S IN TH/. 
 
 which tjiey. expected to receive from me; thcyob- 
 jectecj, therefore, f.o the proportion of the Moors, 
 and at laft a capitulation took place: our conduc- 
 tors were fent oyer the river to the little town 
 Boofu, ancl I was in cuftody detained by the Moors. 
 Here is a guard always ftationed to take notice of 
 fufpkious people, who v'ifl 1 to crofs at this fern', 
 and to fend them in cuftody tP the King. The 
 guard is not, however, faithful to its truft, for they 
 fometimes take a man fpr themfelves, and fell 
 him to the flave-dealers ; or fend the Chriitians. 
 whom they feize, to the coaft, to the Chriftian 
 traders, and thus gain a coniiderable f um for their 
 ranfom. 
 
 On the following evening, qur mefTcngcrs came 
 back, attended by three armed Moors on horfe r 
 back, who were to be our efcort ; and at day-break 
 they conducted us over the river, where each perfon 
 is obliged to pay fix zimpo for his fare. We foon 
 came to Boofu, a fmall lively town, containing" 
 about two hundred houfes, and a hundred huts, 
 and Ctuatcd about half a day's journey from 
 KouG'a. Here the caravans which go f^pm rJpufTa,. 
 Feene, Silia aud Tambuko, to Wangara and the 
 kingdom of Mohopharo, ftop to lay in provifions, 
 and fodder for their horle*, which are much 
 cheaper here than at HouiTa. We were carried to 
 the Ahomokoni, or judge, w}io firft entertained 
 
 us
 
 t^TFlRIOR OF AFRICA. 413' 
 
 usftofpitably, and then queftioned me, by an inter- 
 preter, cm the purpofe of my journey. When I 
 had anfwered his queftions, he endeavoured to 
 make a bargain with my conductors, to whom he 
 offered fix hundred zimpo for my perfon, that he 
 might afterwards fell me at a much higher rate for 
 a Have : his offers were reje&ed, and they appealed 
 to the King's order, that all foreign travellers mould 
 be brought before him. We were now to be 
 efcorted farther, by fix perfons with arms, and 
 brought to the metropolis, to the King. The 
 diitance was three German miles, but the way did 
 not feem tedious to me, as people were conftantly 
 pafling us, and various objects excited my atten- 
 tion, it was quite dark when we entered HoufTa, 
 which is fituated on a hill, and may be feen from a 
 very great diftance. The King had retired to reft, 
 and we were obliged to ftay at the guard-houfe, 
 where we were very well entertained, and particu- 
 larly with fome excellent goat foup. 
 .. 
 
 About eight o'clock in the morning, we were 
 brought to the palace 1 , and prefented to the King, 
 lie put feveral queftions to me ; and my travels, 
 of which he wifhed for a circumftantial account, 
 interefted him particularly. To convince him that 
 I was-not a fpy, and to fatrsfy his curiofrty, I drew 
 my journal out from my waiftcoat, and related to 
 
 rf ! him
 
 4T4 TRAVELS tN THR 
 
 him fdkcr.r)a{Tages, fuch as I thought would giver 
 him the moil: pleasure* The interpreter wrote on 
 a piece of wood various matters of intelligence, 
 which he then delivered to the King; who after 
 reading them, ordered that victuals and drink 
 ihouid be given to me; that I ihoiild be kept in his 
 houfe as a fervant, and provided with a robe, 
 This was inftantly done, and I laid alide my {beep- 
 .{kin and waiftcoat. The robe was, according to 
 ti v cuftom of the country, made very long, and of 
 areddiia linen; and the number of royal icrvants 
 was encreaied, by my admifficn, to eighty perfons. 
 Our employment was chiefly to attend the King 
 daily, twice to the temple, and once to the place 
 whence he iilued his orders; and when he went 
 out of the city, we fupported his chair by turns : 
 for the laft purpofe, eight perfons generally were 
 employed, fo that after ten weeks, each man's 
 turn came round acrain. After I had been there 
 
 o 
 
 a fortnight, the King was pleafed to take a journey 
 to Boofu, and to make feveral vifits from that 
 place. For this journey I was to prepare myfclf, 
 as my turn was come; and it gave me great un- 
 eafineft, as the bearers are aecuftomed to go on a 
 trot. At iirft, I went on very well, but as no halt 
 was made, I became fo weak and tired, that I fell 
 to the ground. The Moors, my comrade*, would 
 have railed me up- again: but as I could not help 
 
 myfelf,
 
 l2fT$RK>R OF AFRICA. 415 
 
 xpyfcif, they drew their poles from the clair, and 
 were going to beat me. I began to cry out vehe- 
 mently that the King might hear me, who ordered 
 t hem to ftop, made ftrict enquiries into the matter, 
 and ordered one of the Moors who attended him 
 on horfeback, to diiinount, give me his horfb, and 
 take my place. Tills drew on me the hatred of 
 feveral of the attendants, but, out of reverence to 
 the King, they kept it fecret; particularly as they 
 obfewcd that he treated me with kindnefs. After 
 an excursion of fix weeks the King returned back 
 to his reiidence, and on his departure, gave orders 
 that I fhould not be a bearer, but accompany him 
 on horfeback : I did fo, as he ordered, and on my 
 return gave back the herfe. Asno work was given 
 to me, I -made a little employment for myfelf, and 
 particularly ufed to vifit a man engaged in carpen- 
 ters and joiners work, who was very happy to fee 
 me, as he was in hopes of gaining from me much 
 mftruvlion. I made at his houfe a four cornered 
 table and a box; not indeed fo well as an European 
 joiner, for I had not theneceuary inftruments, but 
 ufed a knife inftead of a chiilel, and Hones inflead 
 of a fine plane. After I had gone about ten. times 
 backwards and forwards to this man, the King lent 
 for me, and prohibited my walks in future . into 
 the city; for fufpicions had been excited againn; 
 me, and they had endeavoured to perfuade him, 
 
 thaj
 
 4i6 travels in rat 
 
 that I could not have any good intentibns. I ex- 
 culpated myfelf by laying, that I had done nothing 
 amifs, and had gone occafionally to the carpenters, 
 merely becaufe I was one of that trade. This 
 pleafed him* and he replied, that,- as I was a car- 
 penter, he would give me employment. I under- 
 took it, and he ordered immediately wood to be 
 brought, and gave me permiflion to fpend two 
 hours every day in the city. I made a cheft firft 
 for the King with eight drawers, and then a fmall 
 cabinet, which I painted with red and yellow; 
 both pieces gave him the utmoft fatisfaction, for 
 he was continually looking at them, fending thefrt 
 firft to one place then to another, and putting in 
 or taking out fomething. I next made three pair 
 of knife and fork handles out of bone, with filver 
 rings, on which I engraved fome letters of his 
 name, M. H. Y. (Maohaouffary), and polifhed the 
 whole as well as I could : theie he received with 
 heartfelt fatisfa&ion, and promifed that I fhould 
 foon be rewarded. 
 
 One feaft-day I petitioned for leave to take 4 
 walk before the town, to look around me, and the 
 king not only granted my requeft, but gave me a 
 pafs, which was a ftick of wood with the royal arms, 
 half a tyger engraved on it, and added, that I might 
 ftay away till fun-fet,whenl was to'attend him tothe 
 
 temple.
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 417 
 
 temple. I now went out of the north gate, towards 
 Walraiua, a village about a league from the city : 
 as I drew near to it, three men came from it on 
 bdrfcbacl^ and directly up to me, taking me for -a 
 deierter, and faying, that* mould immediately re- 
 turn to the city, of they would carry mc thither 
 bound as a prifoner. On my refufal they alighted 
 from t their Lories, and attacked me with their 
 arms. I ihewed them my pafs, which they feized, 
 then tied my hands, - fixed me between two horfes, 
 and fo dragged me into the city to the king. He 
 was told? that I had intended to run away, but had 
 iallen into their hands. The king was aftonifhed, as 
 he had given me a paft, which he now demanded ; 
 and, they* 'put it into his hands, faying they had 
 taken it from me to prevent me from putting my 
 defigns into execution. ' One of them inftantly in- 
 vented feveral falfehoods, afferted that I nad at- 
 tacked them, and the like. I faid not a "word, but 
 iimptytiiftened to their accufations. The king was 
 ftruck with my conduct, and now afked me whe- 
 ther thefe complaints were well-founded. I excul- 
 jfcited myfelr, appealing to the liberty which had 
 been allured to me in the pafs ; and I represented 
 to ]iim;<thcu rts I was not Well acquainted with the 
 language,., thefe people might'- probably 'have mif- 
 underftood me, -and-mifcoriceived that I 'had ffl- 
 trofrtedit&em. The kin -was verv mild. diifM's: 
 
 K e the
 
 41$ TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 i 
 
 the whole examination, and feemed particularly 
 defiroiis to give me confidence. At laft he gave 
 orders that I fhould be taken into cuftody, and 
 that the chief accufer fhould ftay till the next day 
 to fee the manner in which I was to be punifhed. 
 I was wretched in the extreme, thought that my 
 death drew near, and had not got a wink of fleep, 
 when four foldiers on the following morning came 
 to me, with orders to follow them. All the way 
 I went, I faw people moved with pity for me ; 
 but here and there fome were ftanding, who feemed 
 to rejoice at my fate. On the place where I was 
 to be punifhed, thirty foot foldiers, and twenty ca- 
 valry had formed a circle, in the middle of which 
 was a buffalo's hide ftretched out, and near it ftood 
 fix young men, of whom two of the ftrongeft had 
 twitted thongs in their hands. * I trembled from 
 head to foot, and was very near fainting, as I ex- 
 pected either deatli or a very fevere flogging. As 
 foon as the king arrived with his officers, he or- 
 dered the principal accufer to be called, who fprang 
 into the circle with great vivacity and plcafurc. 
 The king now queftioncd me whither I was going ? 
 I anfwered to Wahafua.* Where -did you find 
 
 o 
 
 , J _ 
 
 * J his is the way to F ccne, by which many people efcape 
 privr.tny 'cot of this country. 
 
 ftrangcr ?
 
 Interior of africa. 419 
 
 this ftranger I faid he to the accufcr, who an- 
 fwered, on the way fide behind Wahafua. In an 
 an inftant the king ordered him to be ftript, to be 
 thrown on the buffalo's hide, and to receive a hun- 
 dred lafties on his belly. Every one was aftonifhed 
 that the puniihment defigned for me, fhould be 
 afligned to the complainer ; but they were foon 
 better inftructed by the king's fpeech : " Let no 
 one deceive me, or act unjuftly by a ftranger, qr 
 endeavour to bring down upon him unmerited pu- 
 nilhment." The wretch was forthwith driven away, 
 and fent beyond the borders of the country : I was 
 placed in his office, and had his horfe. The king 
 now informed me how it happened that he had 
 difcovered the exile's criminality. He had ob- 
 served that this was the fame man, who on the 
 journey to Boofu, had alighted from his horfe, and 
 was obliged to be a chair-bearer in my room. He 
 had perceived alfo, that this man looked malici- 
 ouily and fcornfuljy at me, and had thence inferred 
 that the complaint was laid out of revenge. His 
 two comrades, whom he examined ftrictly, con- 
 firmed his fufpicion. 
 
 I now undertook to petition the king for leave 
 
 to depart ; but he would not: confent, faying, you 
 
 muft obey my orders. The Matially (an under 
 
 tifficer) of the Moors then took me with him, gave 
 
 F e 2 up
 
 420 TRAVELS IN THE * 
 
 up to me my horfe, with a halter, and a goat-fkin 
 inflcad or a'faddle, at which I was aftonifhcd. As I 
 perceived that I could not eafily accommodate my- 
 felf to this furniture, but fhould probaUy cxpoie 
 myfelf to great danger, I refolved to beg the king 
 either to let me proceed on my journey, or to place 
 me at leaft in fome other office. On the following 
 morning I was to appear before him : he afked me 
 inftantiy whether I could ride, to which I aniwered 
 in the negative. You muft learn then, he faid, for 
 T have thought of a better place for you, if you 
 will ftay with me. I was afraid now to petition 
 again for my departure, as he oppofed it, and 
 talked of my longer ftay ; for if I had been ftre- 
 nous in my petition, I fhould have run the rifque 
 of being fent to his brother-in-law, Soomahaty,* 
 where I could not depend on many days* good 
 treatment. I refigncd myfelf to my fate, deter- 
 mined to take the firft opportunity of efcaping, and 
 learned to ride in a fhort time, that is, to fit faft 
 on my horfe whilft I was loading and firing my 
 gun. I was in attendance about the king's perfon 
 
 King of Zanfara, who was a man of a very cryel difpolition. 
 :>rcUiu wile was filler to the King of Haoulfa, ami bclidcs 
 be kept four hundred concubines, of whom, fuch as no 
 longer pie* '.fed him were fold to the ' flave-ckalers, and in I 
 :s were 'fought for i'n'thc country. 
 
 when
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 421 
 
 when he was carried out, or rode on his great 
 camel, which was led by tour perfons ; the reft of 
 the time I employed in cutting little trifles, or 
 going about the town to make enquiries concern- 
 ing the neighbouring nations. 
 
 Twice the caravans from Weft Barbary paflfedby 
 in their road to Wangara, which I would willingly 
 have joined, but I could not accomplifh my pur- 
 pofe. J made an acquaintance now with the richeft 
 Trader in the town, whole name was Koobi, who 
 kept on foot constantly two caravans, with a hun- 
 dred and fixty beafts of burden, and fcveral (lave:;, 
 and was a man of conliderable bufinefs. One of 
 his flaves, a facetious active young man, enter- 
 tained me fometimes with the account of his tra- 
 vels ; and from him I obtained the route of the 
 journey into Great Barbary. The rainy feafon 
 row came on, in which the king never went out, 
 except merely to the temple, or to give his orders 
 in the court of the palace. I had thus more time 
 to make fecret preparations for my efcape, cxer- 
 ciling myfelf in the pronunciation of the difficult 
 words in the language, and learning, from the 
 above mentioned flave, the m oft ufual expreffions 
 in the lansaia^es of the neighbouring nations. 
 During this interval, the king fliewed me a fufil, 
 of which the butt-end was broken, and afked me 
 
 Ec 3 whether
 
 422 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 whether the carpenter cf my acquaintance, was 
 fkilful enough to make another. I replied that I 
 would fhew him theftock, and taking it with me, I 
 made a new frock, which fo pleafed the king, that 
 lie made me a preient of fifty zimpo. 
 
 At the end of the rainy feafon I was determined 
 to flip av. ay privately, but my purpofe was fi ni- 
 trated, as war broke out between my king and the 
 Idng Oi Wangara. We took the field firft, and 
 our army was muflered by the 14111 of July. As 
 the rainy feafon was not entirely gone by, our fol- 
 uici\s were obliged to march half the day up to their 
 bodies in water, but they were chearful, and in 
 Jrigfi fpirits. The king of Wangara could not con- 
 cave it pofiibic for our army to advance through 
 rallies filled with water into his territories ; but 
 he was miftaken. Our king alfo made ufe of an 
 artifice, that the king of Wangara might not dif- 
 cover the march of our army. 
 
 
 On the 1 id of July, about mid-day, an officer (a 
 herald) came from the enemy, guarded by four 
 Moors, to the metropolis, with a declaration of 
 war. This was written on fmall white bands of 
 leather- rolled round two poles. On delivering 
 them, be added, that the king his mailer would 
 foon fetch them back again. Our king received it 
 
 in
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 423 
 
 in a gracious manner, treated the officer moil hoi- 
 pitably ; but gave fecret orders for his army to be 
 prepared to march, and then told the officer, that 
 when the water had retired from the plains and 
 vallies, he would carry the poles back, or in other 
 words, begin the war. 
 
 On the 23d, before fun-rife, the infantry marched 
 onwards, and was followed, at noon, by half of the 
 cavalry. The hoftile officer wifhed alio to return 
 on this day, but the king deiired him to ftay, and 
 promised to accompany him on the day following, 
 that he might not be infulted. 
 
 On the 24th at noon, the king marched with 
 his officers and the herald, and took me with him, 
 in his body guard. On the firft day wc came to 
 Taahafa, a little town, with about two hundred 
 huts, where live hundred Moors joined us'. 
 
 On the 25th we paffed over the Niger with fbme 
 lofs, for we could not prevent the drowning of 
 twenty men in the waves, the river being very 
 much fwollen, and the cavalry, which could not be 
 ferried over, were obliged to fwim through on 
 horfeback. We that day reached Maatoh, a vil- 
 lage with forty huts, in the valley through which 
 the Niger flows. 
 
 E e 4 On
 
 424 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 On the 26th and 27th we marched over a chain of 
 mountains to the caft, and came at mid-day to Cra- 
 hoto, the Golden Mountain. Here we halted, and 
 the herald was fent back to his King with the mef- 
 fige, that King Maohouflary was coming with ail 
 force to pay him a viiit in his own country, 
 far as Cahfuto, a little town in Wangara, the herald 
 was efcorted by a guard of twenty men. As foon 
 as- he was gone, news was brought that the infantry 
 was now upon the enemy's ground j waiting for 
 farther orders. 
 
 
 An European army, except that which Buona- 
 parte led over the lofty mountains of Switzerland, 
 would never attempt what I here faw done by- 
 troops without difcipline. We had now again be- 
 fore us the two inonftrous ranges of mountains, 
 which we had already climbed over by another 
 way, and here the paflage was far more difficult and 
 abrupt, ib that I really thought it impofliblc to 
 conquer it ; but I faw that done, which I thought 
 could never have been executed. At day-break 
 the King ifiued his orders to the officers, and in 
 half an hour the cavalry, with us, took its poft, 
 fhook their firelocks, and raifed an immenfe fhout, 
 wluch was re-echoed by the mountains. They 
 cried out- Ofothfigo, koato aqulaty (death "and hell 
 fhali not deter us) ; they ruined up the mountains 
 
 inftantlv,
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 425 
 
 lnftantiy, pieces of rock tumbled down, but not a 
 imui was hurt, The royal tents were now {truck, 
 and it was my turn to climb up the mountain. 1 
 got oil my horie, and with great duTicuky reaahisl 
 the top. The King fat quiet upon his camql, 
 fmoked a pipe of tobacco, and was not in the lealfc 
 tliicompofcd. 
 
 A new obftaclc prefented irfeK: for at the bot- 
 tom of the monntain on the other hde, an arm of' 
 the river Niger was to be palled over. The king 
 remained on his camel, which was guided by Have* 
 iwimming, and they pahed through in fafety.. I 
 followed on horfeback, and was equally fortunate ; 
 yet I felt great pain in my feet, for the cords that 1 
 ufed inftead of ilirrups had rubbed the fkin 
 from my feet, and the blood flowed from them. 
 We had now the fecond mountain to climb over, 
 and during this arduous talk evening clofed upon 
 us ; upon hoftile ground, at the foot of the moun- 
 tain, we halted and pitched our camp. At two 
 leagues diftance from us we faw clouds of fmoke 
 and lire, railed by the infantry, which had marched 
 onwards, and was already employed in plundering 
 deftroying, and burning. In our camp this excited 
 great joy, which was difplayed in fhouts and 
 fongs. On the next morning powder and ftoncs, 
 inftead of ball, were diitributed throughout the 
 
 whole
 
 426 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 whole camp, to fervants, (laves and foldiers, and 
 eventothepriefts, that we might refift any attack 
 which, however, was not expected. At mid-day 
 iixty-two prifoners were brought in, and then 
 conveyed farther in our rear. The fate of thefe 
 people might well raife pity and compafiion, for 
 they were miferably treated ; fome were fhot, 
 others cut down, others wounded with fpears ; all 
 were naked, for every thing had been ftript off 
 them, and their huts were burnt to afhes. 
 
 Here were neither hofpitals, nor furgeons, nor 
 preparations, of any fort, for the care of the 
 wounded^ and when the prifoners complained 
 of their pains, wept and howled, by the king's 
 particular favour they burnt their wounds. We 
 marched on very flowly, for we only this day ar- 
 rived within two leagues of Kahfuto, where we en- 
 camped again. Through the whole night a firing 
 was heard, and officers were continually coming 
 with reports to the king, of which I learned no- 
 thing. At day break a hundred of our army 
 were brought in wounded, and thirty of the 
 enemy prifoners. We now heard that the main 
 army was attacking Kahfuto, which was obfli- 
 nately defended by the enemy. Our Haves were fent 
 off to reinforce the army, but they were not want- 
 ed, for they had fcarcely been gone an hour when 
 
 we
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 427 
 
 We faw the flames arife from Kahfuto, and foon re- 
 ceived the intelligence that the enemy had retired, 
 after fetting the town on lire. We now advanced, 
 as the main army was marchnigon, and the whole 
 day we had a bad way through thickets, and over 
 ikndy plains, and law feveral villages burning. 
 
 We encamped by the river Emog, on whofe op- 
 poiite lide was the main army. This river runs 
 iiom the north and iiows fouthward, through the 
 whole land of Wangara. Here we found ourfelves . 
 uncomfortably iituated,. for the plain near the river 
 was here andthere itill under water ; there w r as 
 not! iine - but ilime and mud under our feet, and we 
 could not light a lire, much lefs take any re- 
 poic. On the right hand indeed there was -a high 
 hill, but we could not turn thither, as we wiihcd 
 to keep up a clofe connection with the main army. 
 They who had horfes fat the whole night upon 
 vhera, as the only way of getting any reft. At day- 
 break we were ferried over the river and marched 
 towards the metropolis. As foon as the enemies 
 army appeared in fight, the baggage was fent into 
 the rear, under the guard of forty ilaves, and fifty 
 foklicrs, and the king took upon himfelf the com- 
 mand of the army, and advanced. After a few 
 hours the attack commenced with a fliouting and 
 howling on both fides, fo that we ourfelves were 
 
 alarmed
 
 423 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 alarmed at it. Our army, which had not refted 
 for feme days, was feveral times driven back, but 
 it always returned to the attack. The battle re- 
 mained undecifive till the evening, at one time 
 our army at another that of the enemy retreated ; 
 but at iength, when night came on, our army took 
 poueflion of the field, and the enemy retreated into 
 the city. We took two hundred prifeners, but 
 our plunder was inconiiderable. The brunt of the 
 war was now over ; for in the whole enemy's COW* 
 try there were no more open plains, where .both 
 ariries could oppofe each other; nothing tut 
 thickets, woods, fmall vallies and mountains, co- 
 vered the whole country. 
 
 I obferved that both armies were entirely unac- 
 quainted with tactics, and that every thing de- 
 pended on courage and fuperior ftrength. The 
 batde lifted feveral hours, yet in all that time our 
 people, and probably the enemy, fcarcely fired 
 twenty times. The army drew back every time 
 the guns were charged, and then advanced again : 
 there was alfo a want of powder. We refted two 
 days, and as, on the third, no offers of peace arrived 
 we advanced farther. We now laboured under a 
 icarcity of provifion ; that which we had brought 
 with us being confumed, and in the enemy's coun- 
 try nono was to be found. Hence the king iiTued 
 
 a pro-
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 429 
 
 a proclamation, that it was not adviieable to retreat 
 for provilion, and that he who wanted food mult 
 advance farther with him, and conquer the metro- 
 polis. What a king does the army muft do alfo ; 
 and we advanced, and we marched the whole of 
 that day and half of the night without finding any 
 nouriihment for either man or horfe. At day- 
 break we were ftill a league from the city, which 
 we could fee very plainly ; every way that we 
 turned our eyes men were to be feen in multitudes, 
 either of our own, or of the enemy's army. Our 
 troops were to make the attack, but the enemy an- 
 ticipated us by fuddenly rufhing down upon us 
 from a hill which furrounds the city on the north 
 fide, and the battle commenced with the utmolt 
 impetuoiity. The fight raged on every fide, and 
 we mould have been loft, if the Moors had not 
 fought heroically, and at laft prcfled on and taken 
 pofleiTion of the city. As foon as they had entered 
 it they fent an exprefc to the king to give him the 
 intelligence ; and we received orders inftantlv to 
 charge, and to follow the king into the city. We 
 followed joyfully, expecting to find proviiion for 
 man and horfe, but we were deceived, for not the 
 Icaft particle remained ; that which the fugitive 
 mijabitants could not carry away with them, and 
 what remained in polfdlkm of thole who ftaid be- 
 hind, was confumed by fuck of our army as firft 
 
 took
 
 4$<> TRAVEL?, Hi THE 
 
 took pofleflion of the place, and who had fet the c i ry 
 on fire on the north fide* The king gave inltant 
 orders that the fire fhould be extinguHhed, and 
 then took counfel with his officers what fart I 
 fteps mould be purfucd. I took up my quarters in 
 the former dwelling of an officer, where I found 
 every convenience except what was nccefiary for 
 the ftomach. For thofe indeed who had had no 
 fhare in the plundering, a little meal was distri- 
 buted, but this was not fufficient to fatisfy us for a 
 few hours* The following was a day of reft for 
 the whole army : the king, however, was fully em- 
 ployed in making preparations. I attended him 
 through the city to fee whether any provifion could 
 be procured, but we faw no figns of any, and 
 every where the greateft mifery prevailed. Mo- 
 thers and children proftrated themfelves on the 
 ground before the king, and cried out to him ; he 
 difregarded them, and ordered, that if they did not 
 retire, but hindered the paiTage, they mould be put 
 to death. I was extremelv affected, and felt an 
 averfion to the king, though I well knew that here, 
 in time of war, compaffion is laid afide, and at 
 other times I had perceived in him many proofs oi 
 a fympatluzing difpofition. I foon after changed 
 my opinion, for that very evening he commanded 
 that the army fhould leave the city the next morn- 
 ing, but not fet it it on fire, as is generally the cafe, 
 
 nor
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 43 1 
 
 nor carry away its feeble inhabitants as prifoners 
 and flaves, unlefe they were in arms, but leave 
 them undifturbed in their huts. 
 
 The city of Wangara is a league in length, and 
 nearly half a league in breadth ; with fix rows of 
 houfes and huts, and three principal ftreets, which 
 run in a line from north to fouth. The houfes are 
 built of mud and unhewn Hones ; the huts of mud 
 and reed-grafc. At each end of a ftreet ftands a 
 temple, and the middle of the town ferves for a 
 market place, as there the crofs ftreets run through 
 the principal ftreets. The palace is built of mud 
 and plain ftones, furrounded by a wall fix feet 
 high, but here and thereout of repair, and it has a 
 miferable appearance. The town is furrounded 
 with palifadoes, which are in ill condition and rot- 
 ten. On the ibuth fide of the town is a water- 
 pond iix feet deep, where the cattle drink, and 
 whence, in time of fcarcity, the people fetch their 
 water. 
 
 At day break we left the city and retired to err 
 old camp on the borders, at the foot of the moun- 
 tains ; the cavalry led the way, and the infantry 
 followed. 
 
 On
 
 43*" TRAVELS IN THi. 
 
 On the 23d an officer cune from thdqefiiemy 
 with propof als of peace. The king accepted them , 
 on condition that the King of Wangara would 
 come himfelf and treat with him. Thin took pi.: 
 and a mutual contract of friendihip and peace was 
 entered into on the following points : 1. The Kin 
 of Wangara mall give every year to t he King 
 Hioufia or lioufia, twenty ilavcs. 2. The King of 
 Wangara fliall afiift the King of Houlla when he is 
 attacked by other nations, for which he mail retain 
 the plunder which his people have made in this 
 war. 3. The cattle which the fubjeefcs of the King 
 of Wangara have driven out of the kingdom of 
 Houfia mall be reftorcd. 4. Both Kings confirm 
 the freedom. of trade between the two nations. 
 
 As foon as peace was concluded, the two Kings- 
 
 \cd each other in a very friendly manner, 
 
 fmoked tobacco together, converfed on d liferent 
 
 fubjechs, and walled not a moment's thought on 
 
 the unfortunate perfons who had been taken | . 
 
 :s in the campaign, and of courie configned to 
 flavcry; for they were left with the power which 
 had taken them. The war colt on both ikies about 
 a thoui'i mi men ; feveral villages and towns ffityg 
 destroyed, and many thoufmd inhabitants $&& 
 otl*eir huts and their property. On the 20th of , 
 
 ilU;;Uil
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 433 
 
 Auguft peace was proclaimed ; and on the 28th 
 we returned back to our metropolis. 
 
 In this campaign I tried to form feveral intima- 
 cies, particularly with fome of the Moors, from 
 whom I endeavoured to gain fome intelligence 
 ufeful to me in my farther travels. I was fixed in 
 my refolution to take the firft opportunity of 
 efcaping, and going into the kingdom of Feene, 
 which is about three days journey and a quarter 
 from Houffa : but of this expedition I will fay- 
 nothing, till I have given a fuller defcription of 
 the country which I had made my refidence for 
 feveral months* 
 
 The kinGrdom of Houffa is the moft beautiful 
 country that I have feen in Africa, in my whole 
 way from the Cape. It borders caftward on the 
 kingdorii of Mophaty or Zanfara, northward on 
 the territory of Fomingho, weftward on the king- 
 dom of Feene, and fouthward- on the kingdom of 
 Bahahara. The river Niger flows through part of 
 the country which it fertilifes ; it is alfo very ad- 
 vantageous to commerce, for many veflels go from 
 Tambuko, or Tombuctoo, to Boom, and their 
 mcrchandife is conveyed farther in caravans. This 
 country is very fruitful, and if it were inhabited 
 by a civilized people, would attract great wealth 
 
 F f to
 
 
 $4 travi-.i.s i m 
 
 fjMj ?r MrMt anlnuls of evorv Unci; 
 tolieiies a.iuperfluity of wood, and various fruits. 
 The mountains produce fait, and faltpetre ; the 
 WQp'tJs, I 1 .;- 1 faax: and if the inhabitants 
 
 aid fc:v-rh tor thsm in the bowels of the hills, 
 tne\ would find numerous treafures. There are 
 property three kinds of inhabitants in this country, 
 r. The Samtygoetys who dwell on the fouthem 
 bdta - . .:. The Kahmofans" on the eaftcrn fide. 
 Ar.d, y Trie Houflans in the middle. Moft of the 
 inhabitants wr-nr ftttig coloured lmcn mantle-r, 
 which are f lilened round the bodv, and inftead bf 
 inoes thongs of leather, which are bound crofswavs 
 over the Foot. Around the head a coloured linen 
 pr woollen cloth is bound. The fokiiers. alone 
 wear round the head a red cloth made of goats bail- 
 or cotton, but in other refpects they wear the 
 unial drefs. 
 
 The Moors have morf red niar.tlcs of linen; 
 
 icefs and traders are generally clad in fills. The 
 men are large and firong, and mew great courage 
 
 the field : the women are of lefs lizc, and agree- 
 able in their perfons. Men and women are' of a 
 char prow n colour, with flat holts, beautiful white 
 
 and
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 435 
 
 andfervc as foldiers for their food and cloathing. 
 They can all ride well, and by their fkill and activity 
 keep the enemy in conftant employ. They rcfide 
 in towns and villages in their own huts and houfes, 
 but are in no eftimation with the natives. They 
 take great pleafure in Healing, but do not exercile 
 their ikill in this art ; for he who is found guilty of 
 Healing, receives a certain number of lafhes on the 
 belly from the pcrfon whom he has robbed, and is 
 then driven out of the country. The natives are 
 a good tempered people, who will neither infult a 
 ftranger, nor fufler him to be infulted. Every one 
 takes all poflible pains to entertain the ftranger 
 who addrefles him, and then to fct him on the right 
 road* which they are particularly attentive to, left 
 the Moors mould fall upon and rob the ftranger, 
 or carry him oil privately and fell him. In their 
 houfehoid they are cleanly and fond of order* 
 Before any one goes to his work he fays his pray- 
 ers, either in the open air or in the temple. On 
 bad weather they do no work in the fields though 
 it mould be neceiiary. but they are more given to 
 agriculture than any of the nations that I had 
 hitherto vifited. The Moors are Mahometans, 
 and the natives Heathens. Here are priefts in 
 plenty, but they have no privileges over the other 
 inhabitants, and rnuft take care of their lands and 
 houfehoid affairs if they wifh for a maintenance. 
 
 F f 2 Thev
 
 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 They fuperintcnd the education of children, and ge- 
 nerally live in the temples. Circumcifionis eftabliih- 
 ed and praclifed every full moon ; the child may 
 be either one day or twenty-fix days old. The art 
 of writing is known here, and children to exercife 
 themfelves in it uie their boards ftrewed with land, 
 on which they Write with fifh or other fine bones. 
 From the fixth to the tenth year the children re- 
 ceive education, and from that time are accuftomed 
 to domefttc labour. For the whole education of 
 a child the prieft is rewarded with a goat. 
 
 The feftivals are announced by the priefts ; for 
 example, the feaft of the new moon, on which they 
 go to the temple at fun rife, walk about with their 
 pupils, till the congregation is affembled, when 
 they make their prayers ftanding, white the audi- 
 ence is lying proftratc with their faces toward the 
 fun. The children ftand by in a circle, and fecm 
 to be very devout. When prayers arc over, the 
 infants, if there are any, are brought forward for 
 circumciiion. When this is finimed the prieft lays 
 the circumcifed child on the ground, delivers a 
 fcrmon, and then returns the child with various 
 monies to its mother. The temples are con - 
 ftrucTed with great fimplicity ; in the villages they 
 are made, like the huts, of reed-flraw and thatched 
 with pa-lm-kaves ; plaiftcred with mud in the in- 
 
 fide,
 
 INTERIOR Ok AFRICA. 437 
 
 tide, and painted or rubbed over with a red colour 
 which is round in the country. In the towns they 
 are built with rough hones, and remarkably orna- 
 mented within : that is, one hone is painted blue, 
 another red, a third black, and fo forth: andfome- 
 times they are adorned with figures engraven 
 upon them. 
 
 The King is fupreme, and enjoys unlimited au- 
 thority over his country. He has, properly fpeak- 
 ing, r.o minifters ; his oflieers perform the oilice 
 of counfellors in the towns ; but cannot decide 
 without his approbation on affairs of any impor- 
 tance. He is very Uriel in the adminiftration of 
 juitice j punifhes flight offences oftentimes with 
 thirty or lixty lames on the belly, which are laid 
 on bv thonirs of leather twilled together. Thieves 
 arc generally hanged, and in the following manner : 
 a poft is fixed in tlie ground, to which two pieces 
 of iron are fattened, that run about half a foot out 
 of the wood, are crooked before, and have (hanks 
 like a nfli-hook : on. thefe the malefactor is hanged 
 under the chin, and his hands and feet are at the 
 fame time tied together to them. One hanged in 
 tliis manner lives in general from fix-and-thirty 
 to eight-and-forty hours : fometimes the punifh- 
 m&nt is mitigated. The malefactor is Ranged by 
 
 F f 3 the
 
 43 3 travel*; in t; li- 
 
 the neck upon the hooks and then remains alive 
 only about two hours. 
 
 The military force confifts in eighteen cr twenty 
 thoufand native infantry, and fix thoufand Moor- 
 iili cavalry. Mod of the foldiers carry guns and 
 large iron axes in war time, the others lances four 
 feet long. The King goes always hiinfelf into the 
 iickl, and commands the army. He is dreaded by 
 his neighbours, though they are in poffdlion o 
 much ftronger armies. The trade carried on in 
 and through this cpuntry is confiderable, id which 
 its fituation and fertility is very favourable. The 
 caravans halt here, take in provifions and fodder, 
 and make arangements for their return. The ex- 
 ports from this country arc manna, dates, and cot- 
 ton to Tambuko ; amber, gums, and mufk to, 
 liarbary ; ivory, fkins, and ollrich feathers to the 
 kingdom of Tookahat.* 
 
 Hculfa may be efleemed one of the largeft cities 
 
 in Africa, for it is half a day's journey in length, 
 
 . . ' - 
 
 and two German miles in breadth. f 
 
 ; 
 
 * Infa kingdom is about twenty days journey from Iloulia, 
 and borders on the coalts of Guinen. 
 
 t Mr. Mungo Park has inaccurately placed tin? city at, the 
 (Uliance of two divs journey from the Niger ; defending on 
 the account given to him by an ignorant pcrfon. 
 
 I could
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 
 
 439 
 
 I could never learn exactly the number of its 
 inhabitants, or of their huts and houfes. There arc 
 nine ftreets from eaft to weft, named after" the nine 
 Jirlt months of the year : lfc, Jpeh. 2d, Waa- 
 hatiy. 3d, Teethojoty. 4th, Saawgo. 5th, Nim- 
 joto. 6th, Nahary. 7th, Terankjato. 8th, Mili- 
 kotoala : and 9th, the Sattomklly ftreei, that is, 
 .ift, the Fleih. 2d, Fire. 3d. Lion. 4th, Calf. 
 5th, Porcupine. 6th, Camel. 7th, Moon. 8th, 
 Dark : and 9th, Commerce Streets. 
 
 Belidcs the principal ftreets, there are fixtcen 
 crofs and half ftreets: they are not clofely paved, 
 but covered with land to a conilderable height. 
 The lioules and churches are, for the moil part, of 
 ftone and lime, and are not above one ilory high. 
 They are not built clofe, one to another, but with 
 pailages l>etween them, to prevent danger from 
 iire. I was told, that in this town alone there 
 are two hundred and fifty churches. Here are 
 alio four market-places : one for men or /laves ; 
 a fecond, where the merchants of the caravans 
 expofe their goods to fale ; a third for ficfh or 
 cattle ; and the fourth, a place for exercifes. The 
 caftle is on the ibuth iidc, and is reckoned very 
 flrong ; it is furrounded with a double wall, and a 
 deep ditch. In the town and caftle are u.fuaUy 
 three thpufand men in garrifon. Here are manu- 
 F f 4 factures
 
 440 TRAVELS IX in;. 
 
 fachires of linen and earthen wares, which are 
 conveyed by the caravans to other countries for 
 fale. There are reckoned to be in this town three 
 hundred merchants, who carry on a confiderable 
 trade, and even furnif|i out for themielves cara- 
 vans, by which their trnflic is widely extended. 
 Strangers are protected in the exerciie of a free 
 trade here. Numbers of Jews come at ftated u \ 
 and exchange filver, gold, ivory, and materials 
 for dying, for iron wire, fwords, gun-powder, balls, 
 looking-glaiTes, &c. In the fuburbs there are better 
 and finer houfes than in the town itfelf, though 
 the former are inhabited onlyby fmiths andpotters. 
 An hour's walk to the weft of the town, is a brook 
 on which there is a bath for the King and his of- 
 ficers :. it is covered with ftraw and palm-leaves, 
 and on the infide lined with cotton. The water 
 iffucs hot from the ground, and throws up a quan- 
 tity of gold dull : fo, at leaft, I was told, but I do 
 not vouch for the truth of the report, as 1 was ne- 
 ver in the infide of the great bath, it being death 
 to enter it without the king's permifiion. 1 ob- 
 served, indeed, that the King had gold-dull to ex- 
 change, though there was none publicly gathered 
 wit inn his territories. 
 
 
 iivcry year, in the month of Scptcml>er . w 
 the weather h the linen: of the \thulc year, t!,r 
 
 King
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 
 
 44? 
 
 Ming goes to a lodge which he has at Boofu, an.} 
 there exercifes his foldiers in arms. For the pux- 
 pofe of acquiring more information, and acquaint-: 
 ing myfelf with the environs, I often went, with 
 the king's permiilion, to the iuburbs and other ad- 
 jacent parts. The only reflraint I fufiered was, 
 that, by the King's command, I was attended by a 
 Moor, who had orders to accompany me every 
 where, and to protect me againft all injury. Since 
 a former accident, the King had given notice, that 
 whoever mould fuffer me to run into any harm 
 through my ignorance of their cuicoms and man- 
 ners, ihould iufTer death. Though this was, on 
 the one hand, very agreeable to me, as aflurmg 
 me that no one would do me any harm ; yet, on 
 the other, it had the unpleafant effect of making 
 every perfon take to flight at fight or me. I wis 
 therefore obliged to take another courfe to effect 
 my purpofe. I went no more abroad, but remained 
 at home under pretence of iiineis. The officer 
 who commanded the Moors afked me, on the fe- 
 cond day, what was the matter with me ? I an- 
 iWered, that I was ill of a fever. The Kin 2: no 
 iooner was informed of my condition, than he en- 
 quired of the pricfh what could be done for my 
 recovery. They adyifed, agreeably to my wifh.es, 
 that 1 Ihould bathe once a day. The king fent no- 
 tice to me, that I muit go - thrice a day, and bathe 
 
 in
 
 MBOESfcj m 
 
 in the fmall Like before. the town r tor the recovery 
 of my health. I aniwered, that I was too feeble to 
 goib&r.i A Moor then received orders to con- 
 duel: me thither, and to take all care of me. For 
 eigfrtdays I remained under cure, without having 
 any bnft of effecting my purpofe, as my attendant 
 never left me for a moment. On the ninth day 1 
 pretended to he very w Jk, and faid when we went 
 out in the morning, that I mould not return im- 
 mediately, as I had permuTton to remain tijl the 
 evening. My attendant believing me, laid he 
 would then go back to the town, and in the even- 
 ing return to fetch me. I went toward the lake, 
 and my companion returned to the town: but 
 icarcely had he turned his back upon me, when 
 I ran off as fait, as I could, and bent my way to- 
 wards the kingdom of Feene. After walking about 
 two hours,'! fell in with fome Moors on horfe- 
 rack, who afked whither I y/as going? 1 an- 
 swered, that being is ill health, 1 had been ordered 
 by the King to take exercife for my recovery. 
 They believed me, but bade me not go farther that 
 way, becaufe there were ufually rpbbers in the low 
 woods to the north-well, 1 thanked them for 
 their good advice, turned to go a different way, 
 and laid that I would walk another hour, and then 
 retutn to the town. They rode on, but did not 
 take the way to the town, acircumftance at which 
 
 I rejoiced,
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 443 
 
 I rejoiced, ,as they might otherwife have given in- 
 formation which way I went. I then paiied on as 
 quick as poilible, and thought 1 law hcpe and 
 there feveral people in the fields ; I avoided them. 
 Arriving at a wood, I refted myfelf there for an 
 hour, and then proceeded on my journey. I had tor 
 a long time kept my compafs and my journal under 
 my vcfr, in a piece or' goat's ikin, fattened with a 
 fmall thong, that things of iuch confcqueirce might 
 not, by any negligence, be left behind me in my 
 flight. I faw men here and there ; but no one-de- 
 tained inc. I v ate fome dates, and thought not of 
 Other food, but only of my fafety. Beyond the 
 wood I faw feveral pther villages, but entered none 
 of them, as I iunpofed them to be inhabited by 
 Moors. In the night I approached two villages, 
 and left I mould mils the right way, addrefled my- 
 felf to fome Moors, who fnppoiing me to be upon 
 the king's bttfinefs, made no attempt to detain me, 
 although I was known to them. On the third 
 day, I reached the kingdom of Feene, rejoiced td> 
 line! myfelf once more at liberty. Between this 
 and Biledulgerid is an extenfive waftc, named the 
 Defert of Salhara. 
 
 In the morning of the 1 7th of September I met 
 with a troop of Moors on horfeback, who afked 
 jne who I was, and whither I was going ? ' I an- 
 
 , fwered
 
 44# TR AVE HE 
 
 fwered, tliat I was a gun-maker * of l&icxiulgerid, 
 and. came hither in fearch or' work. " Go to 
 Feene, there you will find work : you are not, 
 however, on the proper road; you muft go farther 
 to the right." I thanked them for their informa- 
 tion ; and as I was renewing my walk, took th<- 
 liberty to aikthem for fome fleih and meal. They 
 allured me that J mould be able to procure both at 
 the next village. It was named Jelly, and conlifted 
 of .fifty huts, which were all fo built, that they 
 might with little diiliculty be taken to pieces. As 
 ftitfj place is not far from the Niger, and is liable 
 j.o be oversowed in the raijry fcafon, its inhabitants 
 go at tint time of the year for two months to the 
 mountains. After making here a plentiful meal 
 on Hour ami crab's Heih, I continued my journey 
 to the mountain by a deep miry path, in which I 
 often iunk to the knees. The mountain was bare, 
 and pretented to the view nothing but rocks 
 and fand. Its eait-iidc is, however, inhabited. I 
 
 * fn I l-'UHiHi I had i< en peopje of ttyis defciiption, and though 
 
 uUt \'o ttyjjc in complexion, yet I could fcarccly bethought 
 
 a foreigner, wliilr my bod*- and features were dark with dirt, 
 
 . .' ' , 'J 
 
 and mv hair curled iutt like a trim-maker. Thcle are allowed 
 
 to travel cvery-where, to make and mend arms ; and thev have 
 
 Aoifcttled- relidence. it is common in November that they 
 
 come Uhhcr from Rarbary ; but 1 meant to Jay, that,- onac f 
 
 ,r, they woukl not let me pals ibonu. 
 
 fpent
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 44C 
 
 fpent the night in a village whofe inhabitants fup- 
 port themfelves by gathering fait, and carrying it 
 for iale to Feene and Sille. They were poor, but 
 they gave me ibmc rhcul and lodging for the night. 
 
 I )n the 1 8th I entered a fertile plain, at the 
 <litiance of an hour's walk from the river Niger, a 
 line village, named Pygohiity, inhabited by Arabs 
 and aborigines of the country, and confuting of 
 an hundred houfes. The governor of this place, 
 whofe name was Jonhaty, received me in a very 
 friendly manner, and as he heard that I was a gun- 
 maker, alked me to repair his arms. I told him, 
 with fecret unealinefs but without any confulion 
 of manner, that 1 had been robbed of my tools, 
 and remit iirit try to recover them. The good man 
 heartily pitied me, and as he was very tfefirottS to 
 have his arms mended, brought mc an old knife, 
 a fmall hammer, with a pair of pincers, and afked 
 mc to try if i could not, with theie at leait,fomcwhat 
 improve the condition of his weapons. I made a 
 trial s and he was fatished. One thing left me frill 
 open to the fufpicion that 1 was not a gun-maker, 
 and therefore a character different from .what I 
 pretended to be, namely, that I did not fpeak the 
 accuftomed dialect of thofe people. I underftood 
 indeed fome words andphrafes of their language, 
 but could not fpeak it rnyfclf. The gun-makers. 
 
 who
 
 44-6 TRAVELS IN THI 
 
 who are accuftomcd to comfe into thcfe parts are 
 very expert in Speaking ail the languages of the 
 countries into which they travel for work, it is 
 the Mongrarefh tongue that is fpoken in Barbaryi 
 In Houfia, the Somathalefah is the common lan- 
 guage. In this reipecc I did the boil I could : and 
 as the village chieftain was little fkillcd in this art, 
 my endeavours parted not unfuccefsfully. I lt.iicl 
 here two days, and mended fomc arms as well as I 
 could with the indifferent inflrumcnts which were 
 put into my hands. I aked no money for my 
 work, but received as a prefent fomc wire, a pair 
 of pincers, and a hammer. 
 
 On the 20th Ifet out again, and pafled on my 
 way fome huts, and alio a village. In the Lift teil 
 hours* journey to the town of Feene, I was tak- 1 
 under the care of a Moor and carried to the to 
 of Jonhaty. He was furprized that, being a gun* 
 maker, I did not fpeak the language of the coun- 
 try. My excufe was, that this was the iirlt time 
 in my life that I ever travelled into thefe parts, But 
 though my hair was curled, and the colour of my 
 body fufiiclently dark and dirty, yet he faw fome- 
 thing fufpicious in my appearance which did not 
 fail to provoke his enquiries. He entertained me 
 this night in his houfe, and next day informed the 
 King of my arrival. The King's orders were, that 
 
 he
 
 INTERIOR OF SIRICA- 44^ 
 
 he ihould find work for me, keep ine in Jhi.s houie, 
 and attend to my coin cnience. My hoft accord- 
 fn^ly erected a temporary wooden hut .for me to 
 work in, gave me his own weapons to repair, ami 
 then made my arrival known to his neighbours. 
 "I was not fuffered to want meat or drink, but 1 
 was forced to work hard, as the people were ex- 
 ceedingly impatient to have their arms mended. 
 One morning my holt bethought him to alk me 
 why I went not to the temple to prayers ? I an- 
 lwercd, that I would gladly have done fo, if I had 
 not fo much work to perform, but was now 
 ready to go with him. I took my upper garment 
 and followed, and fo behaved myielf, that I was 
 taken by all to be a perfon of the fame religion 
 with themfclvcs. It was indeed not difficult for 
 for me to go through the different ceremonies, as 
 J had fecn and had taken part in them in Ifouila. 
 Befides, thefe people arc not fuch bigota as thofe of 
 many Kuropean and Chriftian countries, but think 
 thofe fufliciently religious who go often to the 
 temple and to prayers. I have feen Moors come to 
 the temple with the tobacco-pipe in their mouth, 
 without giving oflence. I had been already a 
 month here, without attending to any thing eile 
 than my work ; and as I went daily to the temple, 
 I now became, more known, and got more work. 
 Many of the merchants brought me guns and 
 
 iwords
 
 4-4$,. travit ' ::: nit 
 
 i words Vo^tepair and fharpcfi, and paid mferfrery' 
 well far my work- At the end of z quarter of a 
 year 1 h$4 Cfttfted means of iuWiftehce for the 
 whole year, bfelide a great deil of cloathing, 
 which my landlord laid I (hould be robbed by | 
 way. The King agairrtook fofne notice or I 
 being induced by what the Moors fa-id of my work 
 nndm> inoffenfive conduct. He lent therefore lor 
 my landlord and aiked him how 1 worked and 
 behaved myief ; and as this man alio gave a fa- 
 vourable account, of me,- the King lent for me him- 
 i'elf, gave me his damaged arms to repair,- alked meifH 
 how 1 happened to come into his country, -and 
 when I would come again r I anfwered as Liuppofed 
 would be agreeable to him, that I Ihould ftay. only 
 while I could find work. He Was pleafed with my 
 repU -, and difmiiled me with ailurances of h\> 
 vour. An iiiy holt himfclf was a man of &w.,wor 
 I conwi .ok wiivii not at work in my hut, with 
 thefJav.es \\ ho had been ordered to afiift me, and 
 by that means learned the language of theicoiuitry". 
 To.imprcve my acquaintance with thoft^^iorn 
 I was indebted tor preients, 1 aikedmy go^'Urn^u/ 
 lor^ to carry inc to wait upou them, that I irught 
 tender ttlu;m > thanks. , die took nuc firft to the 
 merchai^^oqmo, who had given me a mantle. that 
 
 fy&k(P8f9x\ mi Wil * *$' good. This man wa 
 iri ^^*4l^*4- fh4^ n^ thei|i fet -l^orfc 
 ;v me
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 449 
 
 me a melon and fomc goat's milk, gave me a fmall 
 faw anil a chiflel, and prornifed to do every thing 
 in his power for me* Another gave me a knife, a 
 a piece of cloth for a turban, and fomc nails. After 
 I had repaired and fliarpened the King's arms, I 
 made for my landlord a fmall table and a go-cart 
 for a child, which excited much wonder, fo that 
 there was more work of this fort required of me 
 than I could poffibly engage to do, as I was de- 
 termined to proceed on my journey. It was, how- 
 ever, impoilible to go ftrait towards the borders of 
 Biledulgeridy as thofe van 1 defarts were occupied ' 
 by men who lived folely by rapine : I might in- 
 deed go wefhvard ; but even there, if taken for a 
 ChrifUan, I fhould probably be very ill treated. 
 
 I had already remained here Iht months without 
 finding any opportunity of travelling with a cara- 
 van. Great anxiety was entertained reflecting a 
 large caravan which comes annually from Tunico, 
 and proceeds to Tombucto : on former years it 
 had arrived and departed before this time. It was 
 fuppofed therefore, fince they had not yet arrived, 
 that they muft have been plundered and difperied 
 "by the way* At laft, my landlord told me, that 
 as the arrival of the great caravan was now de- 
 fpaired of, a fmall caravan was therefore preparing 
 
 to fet out for Tombuclo, with which I might tra- 
 
 G g vel.
 
 450 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 vel. He likewife offered to recommend me to the 
 attention of his brother, who dwelt in that town ; 
 and accordingly gave me a i'mall roll o linen, on 
 which were written certain characters, which was 
 my letter of recommendation to his brother. I 
 then took leave of my friends, the merchant's, 
 who gave me provifions for my journey ; and 
 with their good wifhes in my favour, fct out on 
 the feventh of April. 
 
 
 
 
 CIIAF.
 
 INTERIOR O* - AFRICA. 45 1 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 Defcription of the Town of Feene, and furrounding 
 Territory Correction of the Narrative of Munga 
 Park The Author proceeds from Feene Nahga, 
 where he takes flipping, and fails on the River by 
 Met at ah and Prafiet, to Si I la. Defcription of the 
 Town of Silla. From this Place the Author pro- 
 ceeds with a Caravan to Muta, Saatata, and the 
 Canoko or Gold Mountain, on the Border of the 
 Kingdom of Nylokka, to the Siegmarta?is, a free 
 Tribe, inhabiting Caves Defcription of the Sandy 
 Defart. The Company proceed to the Arabs, living 
 in Huts, and to the Brave Muhojadenes, a ftrong 
 and handfome Race of People, and once attacked, 
 but without fuffering any detriment, by the Cacoa- 
 ierenes Remarks concerning that lafl Nation. On 
 the lAth of May the Caravan of c ended a great 
 Hill : From the i$th to the 30th they continue their 
 Journey through the Sandy-Defert. On the ifi of 
 June they arrive at a Village in the Kingdom of 
 Watmeth, and there refv for a Day to refrefh them- 
 f elves On the $th of Jane the Caravan crofs over 
 a Chain of Mountains, and fwim with difficulty 
 
 through the River Sampi, which is greatly fwollen. 
 
 Gg2 They
 
 4$ * TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 . 
 
 They then pafs over a Sandy Plain, and arrive on 
 the Confines of the Kingdom ofTanwhata or Targa. 
 They are attacked by a Moorifi Horde, lofe Hvq 
 -men , and a Camel, but reach, at laft,thc Moimiair.s 
 bounding the Defart of Sahara. 
 
 OF the nations inhabiting between Fecne, the 
 defort of Sahara, and the confines of Bile- 
 dtdgerki, I fliall give an account hereafter, as well 
 as-of many of thefe in the defert of Sahara. Hen 
 I mean to fpeak only of the town and country of 
 Feene.* This town lies on barren eminence, 
 which in the rainy feafon, in the months of June 
 and July, is entirely furrounded with water, fo 
 that you cannot reach, on any fide, to above half- 
 in-hour's diftance from the town. Thofe whofe 
 bufinefs obliges them to go farther, muft have a horfc 
 or a camel, and are in danger of being drowned. 
 The town is about two hours walk in circumfer- 
 ence, and is in the beft fryle of building that is 
 known in thefe parts. There are four principal 
 ftreets* and in the middle a market-place, where 
 you may find a good deal of both African aud 
 
 : f 1 ' 
 
 * Mungo Park has erroneoufly rcprcfented this town as. ly- 
 ing beyond Haoufia, and dclcribcs Silla &$ two days diltant 
 from it. But Feenc is full three days journey from Silla. You 
 may %o either bV lane! or water. 
 
 rsu .' European 
 
 i
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 453 
 
 European goods. The latter of thefe are brought 
 by the caravans, and confiil of lookir.g-glaffes, 
 buttons, needles, Nuremberg goods, iron utenfils, 
 &c. On the weft fide frauds the caftlc, furrounded 
 with a wall which, on one fide, has a connexion 
 with the wall of the town. The walls are o 
 {tones and pebbles of red colour : but the houfes, 
 though fo'me of them are two {lories high, are 
 confirucfced of fcraw, leaves, wood and clay. 
 There arc in all, about three hundred houics, and 
 a thoufand huts. The town coniuts of two parts ; 
 one of thefe, containing the houfes, extends be- 
 tween eaft and fouth ; is named Konko Horrch 
 jamgaia, that is, the free place or town .of the 
 hill i and is inhabited by merchants, priefts and 
 other pcrfons of eminence. The other .part, .ex-, 
 tending between well and north, is named Hiny 
 Daho Konkoa the Black Land Hill probably 
 becaufe the huts inhabited moflly by Arabs and 
 poor floors, {lands on a black foil. Befide eighty 
 public temples and mofques, there are alfo in the 
 houfes of .the gentlemen feveral private temples. 
 But what I had not for a long time feen, here 
 were eight fine public wells, built round with walls 
 of ftonc, and having handfome winding icairs, that 
 led down to the water, in each of them, They 
 did not afford fpring water, but in the rainy 
 afoa were filled with rain-water, and were, at 
 G g 3 other
 
 454 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 other times, fupplied by fluices from the Niger. 
 They are cnclofed and placed under the direction 
 of one or more rcfpecrablc perfons, who have 
 under them inferior people, whofe bufinefs is, to 
 open and flvut the wells. They are never opened 
 by night unlefs when caravans arrive, and then to 
 afford water to the people and their cattle. 
 
 For extinguishing fires, find, not water, is ufed. 
 Each houfe has commonly fand in readinefs upon 
 it, fo that it does not ealily take fire, even though 
 the next houfe be in flames. The King refides 
 here but four months in the year, palling the reft 
 of it at Silla, at other towns, and at fome of his 
 lodges. The Arabs follow agriculture ; for, 
 though the ground be fandy, it affords abundance 
 of good vegetable produce. It is manured by 
 being laid under water, partly by otfrer more la- 
 borious means. Lemons, gourds, barley, Turkey 
 corn, with fome dates, tamarinds and plums, are 
 its chief produce. Fruit-trees do not thrive here, 
 which is probably owing to the moifhire in the 
 atmofphere from the rains and floods. Befides, 
 the fruits cannot be eafily faved from thieves. In 
 this town are various handicraftsmen, fmiths, pot- 
 ters, linen-weavers, carpenters, mafons, &c. 
 
 When
 
 INTERIOR OF AfRICA. 455 
 
 When I left the town, on the 7th of April, Jo- 
 haty gave me two Moors for a guide, and pro vi- 
 llous for two days. We went to fee Nahga : but 
 there was no pcrfon going thence to Mctatah. We 
 ftaid till noon, and had the good fortune to pro- 
 cure a boat, into which we went with two travel- 
 ling merchants who were going to Tambucto. 
 We failed againft the ftream, and came by night 
 to Metatah. Between . Metatah and Prafiet the 
 Niger is augmented by the influx of the Agatra, 
 or Gray river, which falls from the north. The 
 Niger was at this place as broad as the Rhine at 
 Cologne. My attendants went from this place 
 to Feene, while I paffed on with the merchants 
 through Metatah and Praliet, at which places there 
 are good caravanferas for the reception of mer- 
 chants and fea-faring people-. We faw here fe- 
 i^eral warehoufes, in which we were told that the 
 merchants and failors depofited their goods when 
 they had cccafuon to pafs the night here, taking 
 them again on board their vcfTcls in the morning. 
 For watching thefc cargoes, the iliip -mailers pay 
 fixty zimpo each night, and for this fmail fum are 
 mfurcd that they fhall lofe nothing. The goods 
 are unfhipped every night on account of the pi- 
 rates who infeft the Niger* When the fkippers 
 have very valuable cargoes, they will often receive 
 pailengers without afking any fare, but on condi- 
 G g 4 tk*
 
 40 TRAVELS- IN TIfS 
 
 tioii thftt in the cafe of an attack: by robbers, the 
 paflengers fliali aiiiit in the defence of the veffel 
 ancl goods. 
 
 We had a favourable paflage from Frafict to 
 Silla, where we landed on the morning of the i ith 
 of April. Here the Moors carried us before the 
 Janhaty, by whom we Were examined. My com- 
 panions-, the merchants, for thirty zimpo procured 
 a pafs, and then went on. But as I laid that I was 
 a gun-maker, and had an introduction to the mer- 
 chant Soota, two Moors were ordered to conduct 
 me to him. When I produced my roll o linen, 
 the merchant faid " I mall keep the ilranger 
 who Is recommended to me by my brother, and 
 when he is to go away, I will fpeak to the Jan- 
 haty." The Moors demanded forty zimpo for 
 having brought me ; and the merchant paid them. 
 He gave me a hut behind his houfe to live in, and 
 bade me continue there as long as I fhculd remain 
 in this place. He added that he would do every 
 thing in his power to ferve me , and I mentioned 
 to him' thqf i mould wifh to take the Srft oppor- 
 tunity oft-ravelling homewards with a caravan. I 
 repaired; his own arms, and as he was fatisfied with 
 my work, he recommended me to others. I did 
 not get many weapons to mend, as there h:*:, been 
 other 'gwi<-imkers hereojjly about a month before 
 
 me.
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA, 
 
 57 
 
 me.- But not to remain idle, I made for my good 
 lioft different pieces of houfehold furniture, -a 
 cheft, a table, &c. When my friend went out, he 
 took me with him ; and by this means I became 
 acquainted with many people, efpecially merchants. 
 
 On the i ft of May came a caravan that was 
 going: to Tunis, from Nubia, with a quantity of 
 rich merchandife. It confuted of forty camels 
 and ninety men. My friend fpoke to the leader 
 of the caravan, to take me with him, and take 
 care of me on my journey. That perfon came to 
 me the fame day and aiked, what I would give 
 liim for the journey ? Not being acquainted with 
 the ufual terms, I defired him to name the furn. 
 After fame confideration, he faid he would take 
 nothing, but that I muft arm myfeif well, and in 
 cafe of an attack, fight for the defence of the cara- 
 van. This I promifrd, but was much at a lok 
 where to buy a gun, powder, balls and a fword, 
 as they were not here to be purchased but at an 
 enormous price. My landlord, when he faw my 
 concern, relieved me from my difficulty: kealked 
 what was the ftrength of my purfe, that lie might 
 buy victuals and arms for me. I produced my 
 zimpo, concealing the guilders. He faid that 
 they. were far from fuffrcient. He then, to my 
 great joy, brought out a gun and a fabre, faying, 
 
 that
 
 45 K TK.AV.EL* IN THE 
 
 that he looked on me as an honeft man* who 
 would return at a future time to repair them ; 
 that he would lend me thefe, and I might reftore 
 them to him next time I mould come this way. 
 For three hundred zimpo, which was one half of 
 my purfe, he brought me meal, dried Ilefh, pow- 
 der and ball. He gave me alfo many good rules 
 for my conduct by the way. 
 
 The town of Silla is alfo fubject to the King of 
 Feene, and is his fecondary place of reiidence. It 
 lies on the Niger, and is larger than Feene, but of 
 much worfe architecture. It has but two high 
 ftreets and a crofs ftreet. For the reft it connfts 
 of many low houfes and huts*, irregularly fcattered 
 about. Through the crofs-ilreet is a canal which 
 runs to the Niger, and ferves to fupply the town 
 with water. As ftone is brought from a diftance, 
 there are not above an hundred buildings of this 
 material : but the huts are rather numerous, 
 though I cannot ftate their exact number. They 
 are formed of the wood of the palm-tree, and co- 
 vered with its leaves. The mofques and temples, 
 about an hundred in number, are all of the 
 branches of palm-trees, interwoven in a fort of 
 bafket-work, and covered with leaves. My good 
 holt, though himfelf a. pious man, never queftioned 
 me about religion, nor aiked me to accompany 
 
 him
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 459' 
 
 lim to the mofques. One mofque befide the royal 
 cattle is built of ftone, and even bricks which are 
 brought fr om a great diftancc weftward by the ca- 
 ravans, at fcarcely lefs expence than a dollar each. 
 The caille is a ilrong building of round ftones* 
 and fragments of rock, and is encompafied, on the 
 north and well fides, with a wall. It is lar<re and 
 is garrifoned by three hundred Moorifh horfemen, 
 and three hundred infantry of the native inhabi- 
 tants of the country. Trade is here considerable. 
 Here are both cotton and woollen manufachires. 
 A duty of ten per cent is levied on ail foreign 
 goods fold here. The market-place, though large, 
 i:j on market-days fo full of people, that it is dif- 
 ficult to make one's way through it. The inhabi- 
 tants arc Moors, Arabs, natives and Jews-: the laft 
 ?re die flaves, who belong chiefly to the Arabs, 
 and have much hard work to do. Almoft every 
 Arab has from ten to twenty flaves, w r ho are ne- 
 groes, and perform all work, whether in the houfe 
 or the field. By the Mahometans, who. are fo 
 much decried, flaves are much better treated than 
 by the Chriinans in the colonies. Chriftians arc 
 rarely reduced to flavery in this country, yet are 
 treated with much contumelious oppremon- 
 
 On the 3d of May I left this town and proceeded 
 with the caravan. They went northward, tra- 
 velling
 
 tx- 
 
 4 G& TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 veiling very flow, partly becaufe the heat was 
 cefiivc, and in par t becaufe the camels were heavily 
 loaded. The road was good, but after travelling 
 five miles through the village of Muta, and over a 
 kill which we were two hours in crofling, we Hop- 
 ped at the village of Saatata for that night. 
 
 On the 4th of May we patted three villages in a 
 fandy tract of ground, and halted for the night in a 
 khan in the Sanobo, or Gold-mountain, where we 
 had for ten zimpo a good fupper of wolf's flcfh. 
 
 On the 5th we made our way with difficulty up 
 the fold mountain, which is cntirelv barren : ex- 
 hibitingon its furface nothing but bare rocks and 
 fand. I was told that gold was formerly procured 
 from mines on this mountain, but that the King 
 of Bambara, fmce he loft the towns of Fccne and 
 Siila, had fuffered the mines to go to ruin. It coft 
 us three days to make good our rJaflfage over this 
 mountain. On the fecond day, we came to a well 
 that*was inclofed, and which had ierved to furnifh 
 water from - the mines. Two-and-twenty Arabs 
 were leading their goats to drink at it- Had wc 
 been inferior in force, they would have attacked 
 and plundered us. We took the loads off our car 
 mels," gave them food and water, and difpofed 
 them for the night in a circle round ourfelves and 
 
 the
 
 IKTERIOB OF AFRICA. 461 
 
 the goods. Beiidcs which, at the diftance of every 
 ilxty freps, there was a man fet to watch, left we 
 might be furprized by any fudden attack of robbers. 
 
 On the 7th wc Hopped at fome huts inhabited 
 ny Arabs, and belonging to the kingdom of Nytok- 
 ka* Wc here relied a day, and in exchange for 
 provisions, procured fome forage for our cattle. 
 
 On the 9 th of May we entered die Galla Wa- 
 hara, or the JDefart of Lions, which is fix days' 
 journey in length ; in breadth, two ; and comes 
 to the Doratah, or Poor Lake, which is fo named 
 probably, became, except- in the rainy feafon, k 
 docs not afford water, and never good water. 
 
 Whilli we took our noon refremment in this 
 place, fome of our travellers went upon the fands, 
 where there had been no water for fix months, 
 and found fome large fhcll-fiih, which we roafted, 
 and ate with great appetite. We came next, to a 
 place where a community of people lived in caves 
 
 * I know not whether this may not be the kingdom diulri- 
 
 guifhed on the map by the name of Guby. It belongs to a poor 
 
 king, who, in his neceflities, traSicks lor flaves and hides with 
 
 his neighbours. His country is a wikierne.ls or. . deiart., and '19 
 
 but ten or twelve miles lo:i;r, and lour broad. 
 
 * ... 
 
 on
 
 462 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 on the mountains. They were named Seigmartoir, 
 had no king nor chief > but lived happily together 
 without any government, and were good ibldiers. 
 When war arifes among their neighbours, thefe 
 people ferve thofe who pay them the befo They 
 are brave and high fpirited. For hire, they are 
 ready to attend as guides and protectors on cara- 
 vans, which, however, they themfelves rob at 
 times of their cattle and goods. From this place 
 we palled a great fend, fix days journey in length. 
 It was not without the greatefl difficulty we could 
 make our way farther over the rocks and fand- 
 hills. There are many inftances of caravans tra- 
 velling over thefe defarts, having been entirely 
 overwhelmed and buried in the fand by the north 
 or weft wind. Even in the defarts there are huts 
 of the Arabs fcattered among the fand-hills. With 
 a horde of thefe people not exceeding the number 
 of two hundred fouls, we refted to refrefli our- 
 felves all day on the 1 3th, and they were fufficiently 
 kind to us : they obferved what we wanted, 
 brought us wood from a diftance to roaft a goat 
 that we killed, and were conftantly about us. We 
 gave them in return an hundred zimpo, the re- 
 mains of the goat, and fome other flefh. 
 
 On the 14th in the evening, we proceeded far- 
 ther, taking with us from thofe huts twenty men 
 
 to
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 463 
 
 to explore the way before us, and kept watch on 
 both fides of the caravan, leil we mould be fur- 
 prized by robbers. We found every day channels 
 of brooks of confiderable width ; but they were at 
 this time moftly dry. We found no more huts ; 
 but law here and there a few Arabs and Moors, 
 who came no nearer than to fee that we were well 
 armed. 
 
 On the 19th in the morning, we fell in with a 
 horde of Muhojadenes : this ftrong and warlike 
 nation inhabit a territory fifty miles in diameter.* 
 They found here and there fertile fpots in the 
 fandy wafte,on which they raife gourds and millets. 
 They have alfo goats which they procure in barter 
 from the neighbouring nations. They may be 
 reckoned the mod refpeclable of the inhabitants of 
 the defart : with the Moors they are conftantly at 
 variance. At our arrival here they gave us aflift- 
 ance to unload our camels, fupplied the animals 
 with water and forage, and fupplied ourfelves with 
 curdled milk and water. It was fortunate for me 
 
 * They pofTefs a final! tract north-weft from this defart, 
 which is not above 2i iqua're roods in extent. 1 know not 
 whether they be of the Zv.renzegas whom the maps reprefent 
 in the fame place. The people of the caravan called them 
 Carcater, and faid they h?.d no Chief. 
 
 that
 
 46**^ TRAVELS IN- THE-*: 
 
 that I had a fu&eient fupply of proviuons, f >r the 
 inhabitants 7 are- exceedingly poor, and have little ' 
 elfe to iuMft on beiides indifferent reots, and tlie 
 inner bark of fome trees* 
 
 
 
 Towards evening we renewed our journey, and 
 proceeding towards the north-caft, came neat J 
 morning to a village of more than five hundred 
 huts. Here dwelt the Chief of the Muhojadenes, 
 to whom we were obliged to pay for each pe$fon, ; 
 a toll of ten zimpo* In the afternoon we afcended 
 another great fand-hill, and were attacked by a 
 horde of Carcaters, whom however we - repuUtfd 
 without fuffering any injury from them. In the 
 evening we refted by the fide of a brool&j nftar to 
 which wc. caught three young oftriches, of which 
 we made a good fupper. The night, was a&rnaing* ; 
 4br there arofe a thunder-ftorm with a tempeftu 
 wind, whicli threatened to overwhelm us with 
 land. The famjs were driven in heaps upon us) 
 and we muft have found our graves &ere if the 
 ftofflvhajA. laited longer. The wind luckily blew 
 at I4II /rojen jhe fouih, and" was then lets dangerous 
 according to the. account of my fcllow-travejiers, 
 than ijbey had often known it. When we were to 
 fet ^<Wiiftij$ ^?AH%g*ift'<P; :were confined .from 
 talfuag^ut-qne way \ and the wind blew- ftr^ight 
 fru^gMk^rfceiv.fcward M^h. w$ feVfiur &*- 
 
 c- dH We
 
 INTERIOR Of ATRrCA. 465 1 
 
 We ftru^gled on, and in the evening came to the 
 Zooto river, which was nearly dry. We patted 
 the night in a village befule it, which was named 
 Wohga ; and refted there likewife on the follow- 
 ing day. The tfaefc in which this lies, is two days 
 journey in length, and one in breadth ; and is in- 
 habited by a {mail agricultural nation who afe 
 named the Tahlatenefi. They have no intercourse 
 with either Moors or Arabs, but live in peace and 
 freedom. Their Ikin is of a reddifh brown colour, 
 their countenance fomewhat of the expreflion of 
 that of a fpaniel ; they are fliort and thick, and-go 
 entirely naked; and they are good-natured and hof- 
 pitable. They let us have their huts, and flept them- 
 f elves in the Open air. The country they inhabit 
 is moderately fruitful ; and it is enriched in the 
 rainy feafon by the overflowing of the river which 
 interfects it. 
 
 On the 24th, in our afcent up a mountain, we 
 fell in with troops of Moors, who offered us no 
 injury, but, as is ufual for thefe people, alked us 
 for a prefent, and obtained it. In the evening we 
 came to a horde of Arabs, with whom we lodged. 
 
 From the 25th to the 30th, we came again into a 
 fandy defert, with rocks here and there fcittered 
 over it, We were paffing on in a melancholy 
 
 H h mood. 

 
 4^6* T.RAV1LS. IN THI 
 
 mood, when we came to two brooks,, whkh t* 
 our difappointment were dry ; and for three 
 clays, under a fcorching heat, we iuftered jurat* 
 preilible torments by thirft. We hoped at hit to 
 find the expeded river, but were again miftakciu 
 Faint and exhaufted we came, on the ill of June, 
 in the evening, to fixty-four huts belonging to the 
 kingdom of Watometh.* The leader of the cara- 
 van, alked the villagers, whether the caravan 
 might reft in lafety, and whether the cattle be- 
 longing to it could have fodder there ? the chief 
 alkq|l, whether he was to have a prefent ? Hewas an- 
 fwercd that he mould, and that neither he nor his 
 people mould be molefted by us. He immediate- 
 ly ordered his people to bring water for our cattle, 
 to provide them fodder, and to take off their loads* 
 All was done in great order. For the greater fe- 
 curity, our moft valuable goods were pi aced in fepa- 
 rate huts. When the cattle were fatisfied, we 
 were likewife alked to appeafe our hunger and 
 thirft, but our food was from our own ftores - r 
 
 i . , 1 
 
 * By the account of my fellow travellers, thefe people once- 
 lived in Barbary, under King Athgomedi ; but after freeing him- 
 ielf from the paymeruU>f a tribute to Trepali, he opprefTed hi 
 f objects, and fufreccd many of them to be murdered by foreign 
 foldiers. Thofe who ffed from his tyranny formed u free ftate 
 in Wctomath. 
 
 and
 
 Interior of Africa. 467 
 
 rmd we were obliged to be content with very in- 
 different water. Our leader alone was fupplied, by 
 the people of the village, with meat and milk. 
 Next day, twenty of the bell ihooters of our party 
 went out, and brought in fome oftriches, and a 
 wolf to be dreffed. We palled this day of reft, 
 iufiiciently to our fatisfaction ; forming a clofe 
 friendihip with the people by whom we were en- 
 tertained. At noon we fet ourielves in a row be- 
 fore the huts, and were numbered by the ehief and 
 alked for payment. Our leader then, took out his 
 purfe, and gave for each of us ten zimpo^ for 
 the inhabitants of the village, and three zimpo, 
 for the chief himfelf. When the money was di- 
 vided, the inhabitants gathered round us, made a 
 fire, and danced about it. Our commander laid 
 himfelf, down to deep, but gave orders that fome 
 men mould keep watch, and that the reft mould hold 
 themfelves in readinefs to rife, and fight for their 
 defence, at the firft Ihot they mould hear firecj* 
 On the third at day break, we left the village. 
 We had not gone more than a few hundred paces, 
 when it began to rain, and the wind grew tempes- 
 tuous. We halted about half an hour ; and then, 
 the ftprrn ftill continuing, went back to the village, 
 where the inhabitants were very glad to fee us. 
 On the cth, the wind and rain ceafed. We then 
 went on, over a chain of mountains extend- 
 II h 2 - ing
 
 468 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 ing towards the weft ; and had to fwim, at the 
 peril or our lives, over an arm of the river Sampi, 
 which was much fwollen by the rains. We pafletl 
 the night under fhelter of a clump of trees, and 
 early in the morning, proceeding along a fandy 
 plain, we came to the boundary of the kingdom 
 of Tom'ohata or Targa ; where we were ordered 
 by our leader to be-on our guard, as we were 
 about to encounter a rude and fierce nation. 
 We had not travelled above another hour, when 
 a troop of Moors came fuddenly upon us, and de- 
 manded a prefent. Our leader laid, he would not 
 refufe a prefent, but would only give it at a village, 
 and to the chief. They, thereupon, fired on u< r 
 killed one of our camels and its two drivers, and 
 were advancing upon us. We fired in our turn, 
 and fome of them fell ; but their company did r:ot 
 give way. We fired three times, killed fome others 
 ok them, and brought them to halt, but not yet to 
 flee. While we were conlidering what fteps to 
 take, came' a troop of Arabs, who had their refi- 
 derice on a height at no great diltance. The Moors, 
 upon this took to flight ; they were cloathed only 
 with racjs, very like their brethren whom F law in 
 one of the kingdoms already mentioned. We bu- 
 our dead friends in the fond, diftributed the 
 burthen -of the camel in equal portions upon 
 the other camels, and proceeded to the Arabian 
 
 villages.
 
 INTERIOR Ob AFRICA. 469 
 
 villages. The people there told us, that it was 
 not on our account they had come out, but 
 that, when they heard the firing, they fuppoied 
 that the Moors had attacked a caravan of their 
 own, which they expected to arrive with fait. 
 We had brought the flefh of the " flaughtered 
 camel, and we now roafted it for our meal, 
 giving, at the fame time, a part to our hofts, 
 by whom we were fupplied with milk and flour. 
 The country around this village is exceedingly 
 fruitful, affording dates and pium-trecs, wild qua- 
 drupeds and fowls in abundance. Men who are 
 induftrious and active require no more. I faw 
 here fevcral birds called the wild Flagy, of different 
 ilzes. Enquiring concerning the Chief of this 
 country, I learned, that at, the diftance of a day's 
 journey was a village in which dwelt a King, who 
 pofiefTed other villages, with the domain in which 
 they ftood. The}' knew here little of the other 
 villages, but only of the King's, to whom they 
 paid a tribute, and were governed for him by an 
 Emir, his deputy. I was curious to fee this man, 
 and found him to be a very old and a good man. 
 When he heard that I had. been attacked by the 
 Moors, he called the horde together, and fent out 
 a party to meet the caravan which had gone for 
 iak. 
 
 II h 3 The
 
 4;o EKfffcEfli \m i < r 
 
 Thcdircel road hence would properly liave been 
 tot he north-eaft, but, as we law an imnidifc (knot 
 hill, where alfo we expected lome robbers to W 
 lodged, for our better iaiety we turned to 
 north-weft. On the 8th we let off, puffed through 
 the beautiful plain, in which the village is fituateel 
 that we left, and -on the right and left of our road 
 found about three hundred feparate huts, but we, 
 however, made no flop till we came, in the evening, 
 to another horde of Arabians. We relied only a 
 few hours, for as the moon fhone very clearly we 
 marched on, and were followed by a number of 
 Kons, who feveral times feemed on the point of at- 
 tacking us, but at the heat of day they left us. On 
 the ninth at mid-day our conductor fhewed me at 
 a diftance a mountain, which, he told me, was 
 the border mountain of my country, and that I 
 Ihould enter it on the next day. I was much fui^ 
 prifed that this man mould mention my country-, 
 as If it were in the neighbourhood, but I foon re- 
 collected, that on my firft feeing him, I had faid, 
 that 1 was agunmaker from Biledulgcrid, 1 now 
 pondered in my mind, how 1 ihould conduce m\- 
 felf on entering into this country ; 1 could no: 
 rid of my 'anxiety, though my hair, which was now 
 quitc frizzled, my long beard, and my complexion 
 turned into a brown by the fun, fweat and dirt, 
 made me look exactly like an African : and I could 
 
 fcarcely
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 47 1 
 
 fcarcely myfelf conjecture that I was a Chriftian ; a 
 character which no one would afiumc who wifhed to 
 travel in fafety in thcic countries. The chief ob- 
 stacle, however, was in my language, by which my 
 comrades, as foon as we came into Bilcdulgerid, 
 would have discovered the fraud, for I could nei- 
 ther fpeak nor underftand the language of the 
 country. 
 
 On thefe confidcrations I made a rcfolution to 
 leave the caravan at a favourable opportunity, and 
 to travel farther, either alone or with the caravans 
 I might meet, and I made enquiries of fever al 
 camel leaders as to the difpolition of the neighbour- 
 ing nations; I could, however, obtain no certain in- 
 telligence, for iome defcribed them as a good fort 
 of people, and others, on the contrary, as a nation 
 of cruel robbers. We pafled the night in a wood; 
 when fome Arabians and Zuenzigans, who dwelt 
 on the well, vifked us, felling us milk and melons 
 at a very low rate, and treating us in a very 
 friendly manner. Pdy comrades informed me 
 that the Zuenzigans were a poor, but a very weli 
 clifpofed people ; that they had no fixed abodes* 
 but rcfided chiefly to the weftward. I afked a man 
 of this nation, whether, if I were willing to travel 
 into his country, to repair arms, I mould be well 
 received by his countrymen. He returned me no 
 
 H h 4 anfwer,
 
 . . 
 
 472 TRAVEL IN:.TH>- 
 
 anfwer, for he could not, as I perceived, underftand 
 me ; but he pointed to our conductor, fignifying 
 that he underftood his language, and would inter- 
 pret for us. In the night I altered my plan, and 
 proceeded on the nth onwards with my couu 
 pany, After a march of fix hours we arrived at 
 the range of border mountains, which run fr*om 
 north-eaft to weft in a double range, of a fickle* 
 formed fhape, inclofing the country. 
 % - '-' t . . 
 
 - 
 V 
 
 . \ . - 
 
 - ^ V 
 
 
 
 
 CHAP.
 
 JNTE1U0R OF AlillCA. 4;$ 
 
 
 
 
 
 chap. xiv. 
 
 
 Defer) piion of various Inhabitants of 'the Defer! cfSa- 
 jjgra The Caravan comes to. the Bordcj-vdiage 
 M at hhy Mango Park's exaggerated Prafes. of 
 the Border-Inhabitants, corrected Account of tly 
 Inhabitants of Biledulgerid, their Track Of tit 
 Mujfubnen, their Manners, C iff lows, National 
 Character and Religion The Caravan , comes te 
 the Village of Naykakoh, to the Hamlets ofHatynay.? 
 and to the little Town of Fvy/ach, where the Au- 
 tl.'OK falls ill of a Fever, and is left behind by the. 
 Caravan-- The Author lodges in the next Village 
 as a Patient with a few, and upon his Recovery 
 Travels onward with fome Moors on Horfeback, 
 through the Land of the Prince Akmnba Mahomet, to 
 Tegorarin, where the Moors fell him to a Slave- 
 dealer, who employs him as a foincr, and conveys 
 hire, on the 20th cf February, 1790, with four 
 young female Slaves, to Amozab, and fells him to a 
 Mujjulmen journey to Mezzabath-Dcfcripiion of 
 
 this Town The Author is fold to a Native 
 
 who, four mouths af'c.?\ feds him to a Trader 
 from Morocco* with whufc .Caravan he travels to 
 Morocco. 
 
 AS
 
 47-* TRfWiil.-S N ",;' 
 
 Ab I have defciibed the defert of Sahara, cmd 
 am now i landing upon its border:., it may 
 here be proper l o lay fomething on the manners and 
 .cuitoms of its inhabitants. . The defert of Sahar.-* 
 k inhabited by different nations, who differ from 
 each other m language, cuftoms, and manners. 
 The principal nations are the following, i. The 
 Moors, who refide here and there from the king- 
 doms of Suez, Fez, and Morocco, to the Niger, 
 and inhabit aifo a tract of country without the de- 
 feat, on the fcuth of Biledulgerid, are little efteem- 
 ed by the mcorilli inhabitants of the defert, from 
 whom they have either been driven away cr dc- 
 ferted. They have each their feparate chiefs, who 
 are generally felected from the oldeft among them, 
 and are fometimes called Emirs. They wander about, 
 conftantly armed with funis and fabres, and think 
 it no crime to attack and plunder a traveller. Mur- 
 der, whether of a native or flranger, is punifhed 
 with death. 2. The Arabians are alfo numerous, 
 and live in conftant dread of the Moors. They 
 are too well known to require any farther defcrip- 
 tion from me. * The Mograns are a ftrong wcll- 
 difpofed people,, given to trade and agriculture, 
 and have among them fome manufacturers. 4. 
 Ti ,\\\u %i a v e a weak and ftupid nation, trading 
 mii'v the Europeans, by whom they are highly ef- 
 leemcd, as they are ealily cheated, and live -very 
 
 peaceably.
 
 JV H'H'IOR A 1- RICA. 
 
 peaceably. 5. The Brakhards areiokrnbly ilrong, 
 curry cm trade with the French ^Engtoli^ andSpa- 
 xufh, ty whom they convey flaves in abundance, 
 cither ftolen from or purchafed in other nntfc 
 
 6. The Jews, who live fcattcred here and thorn, 
 and either carry on trade or do flavifh wink. Be- 
 iides thefe, there are about twenty fmaikr nations, 
 of little eflimation, 
 
 The neighbourhood of the Niger, inhabited hy 
 feveral fmall tribes, is fruitful ; as this river, like 
 the Nile, every year overflows and fertilizes the 
 country. On the north-fide, however, the coun- 
 try is barren and covered with fa;:d ;' final! fpots 
 only are to be found here and there, fituated in the 
 fands, like ii'lands, and producing trees and vege- 
 tables ; thefe are alfo tilled and cultivated by the 
 Arabians. The inhabitants of the defert are fond 
 of freedom, but from want of union with each 
 other, they cannot always maintain it; and there 
 arc kings to be found in feveral nations. The 
 Arabians only, when their freedom is attacked, 
 v. ill defend it to the laft drop of their blood. They, 
 indeed, felccr. from the oldeft aiiiong them ' their 
 Emirs, who cannot, however, undertake any thing 
 without the co-operation of the eld eft of their na^- 
 lion or circle. The Moors are addicted to lasinefs, 
 without either agriculture or cattle, living either 
 
 by
 
 t& TRAVELS iff THF 
 
 by robbery, or when fuch means iail, gomg into 
 the fervice of* neighbouring princes and chiefs. As 
 to religion, the Arabians are Mahometans, but it 
 is not eafily afcertaincd to what religion the Moors 
 and the other nations belong. Their creeds and 
 ceremonies are a mixture of Mahometan, Jewifli, 
 and heathenifh doctrines and ceremonies : hence 
 every one is ignorant, fuperftitious, and led away 
 by defignmg priefts. Every fpecies of religion is 
 tolerated, eafily taken up and as eafi]ylaid down. 
 Clfcumcifion prevails alrnoft univerfally, and is 
 generally performed at the full moon. The moft 
 common weekly day of reft here is Friday, but, 
 as in moft towns the market is held on this day, it 
 is kept as with the Jews, and begins on the Friday 
 evening. On Saturdays devout perfons nevex 
 handle money, nor do bufmefs of any kind. The 
 pftefts arc poor, can poflefs neither herds nor 
 lands, but are maintained by their communities. 
 They run about the country, like begging friars in 
 CHthcIic countries, in quell of a maintenance, for 
 which they educate the children. They alfd em- 
 ploy thcmfelves in prophefying, telling fortunes, 
 and" the like. ; :er priefts nor parents are pcr- 
 
 jnfttcd to' beat a child, for this belongs only to the 
 older? or 'grey-headed men in the family, as, tnej 
 iay that, 'did others beat a child, they wkw lofir 
 iirlove entirely. As thefcgrcy-neadedrncii ,- now- 
 ' ever,
 
 IKTF.isiOTv OF. .AFRJCA. tyj 
 
 ever, from their weaknefs aud age, had jather ftay 
 in their huts than run after children, many dii- 
 agreeable qualities arc permitted, which the other* 
 cannot correct. Thieving alone is .excepted, which 
 any perfons may puniih, tliough it be fuppofed that 
 this is not occaiioncd by any bad difpolition in the 
 child, but by an evil fpirit. The children of the 
 Moors are for the moil part infiruefced in the art 
 of writing- The priefts copy their letters, words 
 or fentences chiefly out of the Koran, and as paper 
 is very fcarce and dear, they write on flates. 
 Among thofe nations, which are without a King, 
 the cldeft of the Families, or villages decide in all 
 cafes, but with tins reftriciion, that in weighty or. 
 criminal cafes the grey-headed men oi feveral vil- 
 lages are called together, to concur in the fentence, 
 Alio, in thofe parts where kings arc allowed to 
 govern, the grey-headed men are very highly 
 efiecmed, fo that, if the King fentence any one to 
 death, they are liSened to in mitigation of the fen- 
 tence, which is feldom pailbd in oppcfition tp their 
 opinion. 
 
 In moft parts of this great defert hofpitaHty is 
 left exercifed than in the other neighbouring coun 
 tries. If a traveller has money he muft pay ; as only 
 poor and plundered travellers are taken care of for 
 nothing, Near the hut of the elder and judge of 
 
 a village,
 
 47* TRAVF.I.S lit THE 
 
 a sillage, fhnd generally two huts, kept in goccf 
 order b^ the community ; one for the traveller 
 bimfclf, and the other for his horfes and cattle : 
 each member of the community contributes to 
 
 the judge, at certain times, meal or milk, or meat, 
 or millet, or fomething or another for the ufe of 
 travellers. Bciides, every traveller has a right to 
 expect from the inhabitants of the firft hut which 
 he enters, milk, or in failure of it, water, and then 
 he is conducted to the judge, where he may flay 
 four-and-twenty hours. Travellers without mo- 
 ney are, however, alas! very ill entertained, and 
 fometimes driven inftantly out of the village, often 
 nfter a ftay of a few hours, but they are then con- 
 dueled to the next village or the next horde. If 
 the traveller isfeen to have money, they give liim 
 to underfland, that he muft make a prcfent to the 
 judge or to the community ; if he does fo, he ob- 
 tains a good night's lodging, is well entertained, 
 and on his departure a very friendly leave is taken 
 of him. At any rate, a traveller may trull the pro- 
 perty he carries with him with his hoft : for. whe- 
 ther he make a prefent or not, it will certainly be 
 reftorcd to him again, undifturbed and without 
 injury. 
 
 j 
 
 The men purchafe, ileal, or otherwife procure 
 their livelihood ; but the women mud get their 
 
 meals
 
 meals ready, and it they have no female flaves f 
 muft milk the cows, rodder them, and drive them 
 to pailure. Their chief daily meal is in t!i,c evening, 
 when the whole houfehold is afTcmblcd. Thofe who 
 have employment in the, fields, begin at fun-rife, 
 and end at fun-fet. The men go every day, to 
 the chace if the weather permit, or to their 
 trade, or fometimes to plunder. Potters, fmiths, 
 linen and filk- weavers are here to be found. Their 
 clotnes or mantles are wretchedly bad, which ac- 
 cording to the wealth or refpect of the wearer arc 
 long or fhort, edged with abroad or fmall border. 
 On the head a turban is worn : about the feet 
 leathern thongs are bound. Many of the women 
 drefs their hair. None ever takes his wife into 
 company, for the fexes are kept conftantly apart. 
 On folemrs reftivals, the women cannot appear at 
 the plays or dances till the fun is gone down. Un- 
 married women can only in the day take, part in 
 fuch ainufements. 
 
 til 
 Every where the women are very flavifhiy 
 
 treated, and muft not eat with their hulbanus, but 
 can only get what is left by them and their children, 
 from which alfo they muft give the {laves their 
 por'tions. A man may marry as many wives as. 
 he pleafes ; but adultery on the part of the wo- 
 man, is pumihed with death. Divorces are not 
 
 allowed,
 
 43* TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 
 allowed, unlefs the woman be barren, In which cafe 
 fhe has the right of taking back what flie brought 
 into the hut, and to form another matrimonial 
 connection. The fons poffefs the inheritance or 
 theirTathers, the girls that of their mothers. If 
 on- the death of a man there are no fons, his inhe- 
 ritance goes to the next male relations; that of the 
 wife to the next female relations. If both parents 
 die, and leave children under age, they fail with 
 the inheritance into the guardianship of the next 
 of kin, or in failure of fuch relations, to the judge 
 of the place. 
 
 Their chief riches confift of goats and fheep, of 
 which fome poffefs from two to three hundred. 
 Only on high feftivals one of their cattle is flain ; 
 for example, at acircumcifion, a marriage, a re- 
 joicing day, and the like. Goats and fheep that 
 liave died a natural death, are alfo eaten. The pro- 
 duce of the ground is keptj after harveft, in maga- 
 zines under ground, and covered with palm leaves 
 and earth. In many parts thefe magazines are in 
 common; the judge has the infpection over them, 
 and makes the divifion of the whole provifions. 
 They deliver nothing into them, take nothing out, 
 the fick and the children excepted. What remains 
 at the end of the year is fold, and the money 
 ariiuag from the fale, is divided proportionally. A 
 
 woman,
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 48' 
 
 wShdaxi, on the birth of an infant, mud fpend fouf 
 Weeks together in a feparate hut, of which each fa- 
 mily Has one, without appearing in publick, or re- 
 ceiving vifits. She is there attended by a female 
 Have, or a female friend. At the end' of four 
 weeks, (he is conducted by her friends to a bath, 
 and a fcaft is given in honour of her. The dead 
 arc buried in general on hills, with many ceremo- 
 nies. The pric it of the place goes before the corpfe 
 with the next of kin to the cieceafed, and the body- 
 is followed by the inhabitants of the' village. - 
 When it is placed in the ground, the bye-ftanders~ 
 make a great howling, to keep off evil fpirits, 
 that fo the deceafed ' may reft in peace. When 
 the corpfe is in the grave, and before it is filled up, 
 the relations light a fire, at which the prieft, with 
 various ceremonies and reprefentations, divides 
 among the bye-ftanders, pieces of root, which-they 
 taft into the fire, and burn to allies. The allies 
 are then ftrewed over the face of the deceafed, 
 and the ceremony concludes, by raifm'g- a hillock 
 of earth over the grave, hi ibmc nations the ce- 
 remony varies a little, but in general the culloms 
 are much the fame. In feme towns are 'public' 
 houfes, where a man may dine for ten zimpo. 'Be- 
 fore he is ferved, he puts down- the money, for 
 which a dill) is filled with vegetables, tc/ be eaten 
 with a foooiv .If another Merlon com?? in* the"* 
 
 x J. 
 
 I i lame
 
 - 
 4S2 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 fame dim filled with victuals is brought to haau 
 and fo in fucceflion; for during the time of eat- 
 ing, the dim and the fpoon are never cleaned. 
 
 When we had paffcd over the top of this range 
 of mountains, we faw two other ranges, one of 
 which runs from north-eaft to fouth, the other 
 from north to weft. The way was very bad, 
 fometimes we had to clamber over fharp rocks, 
 at other times leap over clefts, and we met with 
 many other difficulties. On the thirteenth Ave, 
 came to a valley, which was for the greater part 
 under water, and we were up to in our knees in 
 going through it. In the high places was very 
 fine grafs, on which our cattle paftured; and here 
 and there we faw fome palm trees. 
 
 On the 13th, in the afternoon, we reached 
 Mathhy, the firft border village, confuting of an 
 hundred huts, and about twenty miferablc houfes. 
 In the firft lived Arabians, in the fecond Moors 
 Here the defart of Sahara properly terminates ; but 
 before us were ftill fome immenfe forefts, fwarm- 
 ingwith wild beaus, and abounding with ferpents. 
 The inhabitants of the borders refemble the Moors-. 
 and the Arabians of the defert, in refpecl of man- 
 ners and cuftoms. They feem however to have 
 no religion. Some geographers beftow too great 
 
 en co-
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 483 
 
 encomiums on this people, when they defcribe 
 them as mild and well difpofed; and MungoPark, 
 in particular, celebrates their fame in a manner 
 which thev do not deferve. 
 
 The inhabitants of Bilcdulgerid near the borders, 
 are free and independent ; but thofe whpfe rcfi- 
 dence is within the country, are mere flavcs to 
 their chiefs, whom they muft ferve with limbs and 
 life. They are fimplc and ftupid, offering themfelves 
 up willingly to their chiefs, for the fake of a good 
 name: but they bear their mifery and flavery with 
 mildnefs and good temper. Some geographers 
 call this land fruitful, but I mull maintain the di- 
 rect contrary. In the eafi and fouthern parts, there 
 are defarts and rocks ; in the weft, ridges of fand 
 hills and barren heaths. Here and there only, are 
 fome fruitful ipots, which are cultivated by the 
 inhabitants. The woods to the north produce date, 
 palm, and tamarind trees, but part of them belong 
 to Tripoli, and their produce can fupply but a fmaji 
 part of the inhabitants with fruit. Here are wild 
 beafts in abundance, but tame ones are fcarce. 
 When the harveft is over in the fruitful country, 
 the remainder of the laft harveft is fold or ex- 
 changed, in the following manner : the provilions 
 : t re carried to the top of a mountain, a fir-e is made, 
 1 long pole h ft uck in the ground, to which a cloth 
 
 I i 2 is
 
 484 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 is fufpended on the top, as on a flag-ftafT. The lfl* 
 habitants of the villages, who want provifions, on 
 feeing it, come together and purchafe or traffic for 
 the fruit on (ale. The infpectors, who are there y 
 raife a tax both on the fruit which is fold, and on 
 whatfoever is bought or exchanged for it. If both 
 parties are contented the bufinefe foon ends. Skins, 
 Rides, oftrich feathers, and camels hair are brought 
 to the great towns and there expofed to fale. In 
 the market-places, as in Europe, there are tents and 
 booths. In the former, fruits, colours, corn, and 
 the like, are fold ; the latter are provided with 
 poles, fldns, oftrich feathers, and ivory. The po- 
 pulation of theMulTulmen, who are the proper inha- 
 bitants or natives of this country, is not conlider- 
 ab!e~; and it feems, that the barrennefs of the coun- 
 try extends itfelf to the human fpecies : for there 
 are few families here with more than two children. 
 When war breaks out, all the male capable of bear- 
 ing arms muft take the field, except the refident 
 Moors and Arabians, who levy a determinate num- 
 ber of troops and are excufed; the firft, be- 
 caufe in times of peace they are for the moit part 
 under arms, and defend the country againft rob* 
 bers; the others, becaufe they cultivate the ground 
 fake care of the cattle, and are necelTarily em- 
 ployed in railing fupplies for the army. 
 
 The
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 485 
 
 The religion of this country is the Mahometan, 
 but there arc to be found heathens and idolators; 
 and no where is religion attended to with 
 the utmoft flrictncfs: there is no bigotry, every 
 one may think and believe as lie pleafes, provided 
 that lie does not fay he is a Chriftian. From 
 this difpofition they arc little given to profelytifm. 
 The pricils enjoy great liberty and peculiar privi- 
 leges. If any of them are guilty of great crimes, 
 they are not to be punimed either by the chief 
 or the elder; but the caufe is to be decided by the 
 reft of their brethren. Their maintenance is de- 
 rived from the congregation, over whom they 
 are cntruftcd with the direction. In general 
 twenty or thirty families join together in the 
 fupport of a prieil and a mofch. It is cuftomary 
 for the priefts to go to mofch at fun-riling and fun- 
 fetting, to deliver there a prayer, and to read to the 
 perfons prefent a leffon out of the Koran : befides 
 this they keep fchool thrice a day in the open air, 
 and inftrucf the children in the Koran, in writ- 
 ing, and in accompts. In the months of June and 
 Julv no inftruction is given, for they have then 
 holidays. Molt of the pricils have from two to 
 four wives, who arc very much honoured and 
 efteemed. The priefts alio praclife phyiick, which 
 however thev never give to a lick man till lie is 
 f ecovering: for they believe arid give it out, that 
 
 J i 3 h
 
 - j 
 
 436 . TRAVELS IN TH 
 
 it is againft the command of God and his pro- 
 phet, and that ficknefs is a punifhment, which 
 ought not to be removed by tfye phyfician. When 
 figns of recovery are perceivable, they fay, that 
 God and the prophet have removed the punifh- 
 ment, and it is now lawful to aflift the weaknefs 
 of the body. They are alfc\ foothfayers at mar- 
 riage contracts, and when a lover has made choic^ 
 of a female, their opinion is alked, which they give 
 after a great deal of buffoonery, faying, " God 
 and the great prophet are pleafed with the con- 
 tract; or they are not pleafedwith it." Circiim- 
 cifion is praclifed here according to the Maho- 
 metan cuitom; and the eldeil of the family 
 muft always be prefent at it. When children 
 quit their fchool, which is at their tenth or 
 twelfth year, the ion come,- under the fpecial in- 
 fpetlion, of the father, and the daughter under that 
 of the mother, by whom they are prepared for 
 their future mode of life: but if a young man 
 wiiis.es to go into Orders, he enjoys the instruction 
 of the.priiil for a jjftnoar time, and refides in his 
 houfe, and the father muft then provide for the 
 child's maintenance. The men employ them- 
 ielves partly in hunting, partly in'bufmefs; work 
 with earth, wood, none, and iron; make linen 
 and filk, and arc engaged in various other ways. 
 The women and female Haves take care of the 
 
 houfe
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 487 
 
 houfe and work in the field ; but the men take 
 care of the cattle, which are foddered by ilaves. 
 Moll of the inhabitants of this country keep 
 (laves, who go willingly into fervice, as they are 
 .here very well treated. 
 
 Among their moveables, there is nothing prized 
 fo much by the men as their gun and their fabre," 
 which they take with them, if they go only fifty 
 or a hundred fteps from home. Every, inha- 
 bitant is permitted to carry thefe with him on the 
 road, the Jews only excepted, who are prohibited 
 from ufing them. The chiefs and governors 
 cannot determine arbitrarily in weighty matter:-: ; 
 they rruift take counfel with the elders, and may 
 then execute or mitigate the puniihment decreed, 
 but they cannot increafe It. Thieving, if the 
 thief be caught in the acl, is pimiihed ieverely. 
 But if a perfon be fufpe&ed only, no one can 
 ipeak of it, jior fearch the lioule. If a Jew be 
 iufpeefed, his houfe may befearched by the fuf- 
 peclor and &n elder, the latter being requefted to 
 attend : and if the ieaft thing be found here, ftolen 
 from him or any other native, the Jew is irrftantly 
 laid on his back, and fipgged, on th,c belly, till he 
 dies. 
 
 I i 4 Moil
 
 4-S8 travels in the 
 
 Moft people are cleanly in their cloathing. The 
 women daub their lips and eyeballs with a red 
 colour, frizzle their hair and powder it with a 
 red powder. This is not the cafe every day, but 
 always on Fridays, which is their weekly Sabbath. 
 The dead are carried, if it be any way poilible, 
 and buried on high mountains, with their faces 
 turned to the earth. Over the grave are raifed, 
 in general, fmall round blocks of ftone, on which 
 the relations of the deceafed, at certain times, 
 place flowers, food, and wood, and inferibe what 
 has lately happened in the county in their family. 
 - 
 
 I return now to my journey : it fcemed likely to 
 be foon ended ; but I was deiiined to more troubles 
 and perplexities. On the 14th we had a day of 
 repofe : on the 15th we travelled onward, and left 
 the chain of mountains rather on the eaft. About 
 mid-day we came to the firlt village inhabited by 
 the Muflulmen, and called Naykakoh. Several ot 
 the inhabitants came running half a league to us, 
 and afking whether we would pafs the night with 
 them, and on our declining it, appeared very for- 
 rowful, itill walking with v.s. In the village 
 oftrich flcth and millet cakes were dillribut^d 
 among us, for which our conductor paid ten aiij*- 
 po a head. "With this they were very well con- 
 tented
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 489 
 
 tented, and laid, that if we would flay the night 
 there, nothing farther would be required from us. 
 As we had predetermined to go on to Hatynaji, 
 we loon fet off again, and went over a (and hill, 
 which from the late rains was as hard as ice, and 
 covered with a wet greafy duft, on which we ran 
 great rifque of Hiding and falling down. At fun- 
 iet we reached Hatynaji, and palled the night in a 
 caravan houfe. This place contains about four 
 hundred houfes and huts, and is iituated in a fruit- 
 ful country, a league from the river Coemt.mi. 
 
 From the 16th to the 1 9th, during conflant rain 
 and wind, we paffed over a high mountain, and 
 faw nothing of importance, excepting fome mifer- 
 able villages. Near fceep mountains, and on barren 
 plains, we faw here and thei e fome palm-trees ; and 
 in the morning were obliged to keep a good look 
 out, as at times lions, tygers. wolves, baboons, and 
 other animals were making their way to the river 
 to drink. 
 
 On the 19th at mid-day we came to the little 
 town of Evyfach, but found none of the con- 
 veniencies which we expected, and had bcfkles a 
 very bad night's lodging. This place is inhabited 
 by Arabians, Moors, natives, and Jews ; is exten-' 
 five in its buildings, which however, arc only mifer* 
 
 able
 
 490 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 able houfes and huts on the declivity of a hill run- 
 ning from fouth to north. Here, unfortunately, 
 1 was feized with a fever, owing to the rain ot 
 the laft three days, which had kept me conilantly 
 wet to the ftdn. The attack was fo violent that 
 1 could not ftand on my feet, hut was obliged to 
 lie on the ground. The caravan refufed to take 
 me' with them on their departure, for they thought 
 that my diibrder was infectious, and when they 
 were gone, our holt too, would not permit me to 
 ftay in the carayan houle. By many entreaties I 
 obtained a delay of a few days ; but as on the 23d 
 I obferved no fymptoms of recovery, he turned 
 me out of the houfe. I went to feveral houies 
 and huts, and begged to be admitted, but no one 
 >iad pity on me, fo that I crawled out of the city 
 to Omothy, a village about a league to the weft T 
 ward. 
 
 , On my way to Omothy I was caught in a vio- 
 lent mower, which wet me through, and fo weak- 
 ened me, that I could fcarcely ftand. WhiLft I 
 was bending over my ftaff juft to reft myfelf, fome 
 Jews, who came out of the village, and were going 
 into the town, ftepped up to me, and afked me 
 whether I was ill. I replied, yes, and yet no one 
 Will take pity on me, or give me a lodging. One 
 of the Jews, a young man, fpoke privately a few 
 
 words
 
 INVKklOR OS AFRI. 49J 
 
 words with the oldeft, who then affced mc whethev 
 I had any money ? Not much 1 replied, for I am. 
 
 only a working man, and have not had any work 
 for ionic lime. Upon this rne cave ir.c his ft:ck 
 and faid, " Go on into the village, my houfe is 
 the fixth on the left hand, ihew this ftick, and fay 
 that its mailer has promifed you a lodging." -JL 
 crawled on and got fare to the village. Before 
 this houfe I found a lad, to whom I mewed the 
 flick, and afked, whether the man to whom the 
 ftick belonged was mafter of that houfe. Yes, he 
 replied, the ftick belongs to my father. Whilfl I 
 was fpcaking to the boy, two Moors ftepped up, 
 and afked me who I was, and whom I wanted r I 
 am a workman, I replied, who fell ill of a fever 
 in the town about a league off, and as no one would 
 give mc a lodging, was compelled to travel farther. 
 On my way hither a man met me, whofe ftick 1. 
 have here in my hands, enquired what was the 
 matter with me, and on my begging a lodging, 
 fent me hither to his own houfe. What is your 
 bufinefs ? What work can you do ? I am a carpen- 
 ter and joiner. What are yen ill of? I now told 
 them what had happened to me in the way, and 
 how I had caucrht mv illnefs, but thev did notun- 
 derftand me, for they are not acquainted with the 
 fever, and they afked whether I fhould die of. this 
 diforder ? I anfwered, no ; for it only weakens 
 
 the
 
 492 TRAVELS rif THE 
 
 the frame. Upon this one of them faid, -(ve will 
 come to fee yon again to-morrow, and if you are 
 well, will procure you feme work, and take care 
 of you, and then they went away. 
 
 The lad -cor! dueled me into a little hovel behind 
 the houfe, brought me a bundle of ftraw and fome 
 palm leaves, and left me. Here I did not lie much 
 better than in the open air, for it rained through 
 at all quarters, and there was no door. The fever 
 weakened me by another (till more violent attack, 
 and I thought, that, as in fo miferable a lodging I 
 could not expect to get better, my end was not far 
 difrant. In the evening my hoft came to me, to 
 whom I complained of my diftrefs, and particu- 
 larly of exceffive thirft.' He brought me a pot of 
 water, coloured over with milk, for which he in- 
 stantly demanded twelve zimpo. As I faw, that I 
 mould be obliged to pay, I entered into an agree- 
 ment with this man, paid him the twelve zimpo he 
 required, and promifed on every day following to 
 pay him ten zimpo. No one had companion on 
 me ; I was kept like a wretched beaft in a mifer- 
 able hovel and thorough air, and could not expect 
 to recover. In the evenine: onlv mv hoft let me 
 fee him, when he came- for his promifed ten zim- 
 po, and took the opportunity of bringing me fome 
 meal and water. Once I expreflcd my fufprife, 
 
 that
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 49$. 
 
 that they fliould leave me in fo milerablc a place, 
 and refufe mc entrance into the houfe. I foon 
 heard, however, that this Jew was infected with 
 falfe notions of religion ; for he told mc, that 
 God had puniflied me, and fo long as he was 
 angry with mc, no one could receive me, left my 
 punifhment mould fail upon him. One day when 
 the fever was not upon me, I wiflied to go out, 
 but was charged by my hoft to flay within, for 
 he (aid, that, if his neighbours faw that he had 
 lodged a lick liranger, i mould be thrown into 
 prifon,.and a fine would be iinpoied upon him. 1 
 believed this at iirft, but was foon after better in- 
 ftructed : for fome days after> one of his female 
 fla\~es vifited me> and told me, that her mailer 
 took me for a Frenchman in difguife, and con- 
 jectured, that I had brought a good deal of money 
 with me, which he would take to himfelf, when 1 
 died, as he hoped, and then he would privately 
 bury me. If I did not die, and did not, on my 
 departure, make him a coniiderable prefent, he 
 would raife a falfe report about me, and then fell 
 me/probably, as a Have to fome trader. 
 
 It rained hard till the fixth of July, during 
 which time I remained quietly in my hut, but as 
 foon as the fun ihone out again, I forced myfelf 
 up, and got out to enjoy the frefh air. My heft 
 
 endeavoured
 
 494 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 endeavoured to frighten me by all forts of 
 fpeeches, but I paid no attention to them, ami 
 kept firm to my purpofe. He then wifhcd to 
 keep my papers and my mantle, for he thought 
 that the Moors would quickly take thefe things 
 from me. I would not however allow of this, 
 for I faw clearly that he fpoke fo merely out of 
 covetoufnefs : and I told him he ought not td 
 think that I war, his Have, for I owed him no- 
 nothing, and could, in fpite of any oppofition on 
 his part, at any time go away to another lodg- 
 ing. When he faw that he could not detain 
 me, he let me go, but fent his fon with me as a 
 guard, that; as he (aid, he might know where I 
 chofe to ftay. The above mentioned Have had 
 fpread it abroad, that I was a Chriftian,on which 
 account the Moors, who paifed me at every ftep, 
 had no companion on me. 
 
 On the 7th the two Moors, who had fpokcn to 
 me on my arrival in the village, paid me a vifit, and 
 enquired after my welfare ; and when I defcribed 
 to them my wretched fituation, and pointed out 
 to them my miferablc hut, they advifed me to leave 
 the Jew, and to travel to 'fcgoarin, where I mould 
 be better taken care of, and mould alfo find work. 
 They offered alfo to take me with them, as they 
 ^ere going thither in a few days. I thanked them' 
 
 fop
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 4*95 
 
 for their goodiiefs, but represented that I -was un- 
 able to ftir two hundred fteps farther on foot. 
 They then prbfnifed to procure me a horfc, and to 
 fetch me, and delired me particularly to be ready 
 by the next morning for my departure; 
 
 A foon as they were gone, the Jew ran inftantly 
 up to me, to know what thefe people had iaidy 
 and whether 1 was acquainted with them. " I 
 am very well acquainted them," I replied, " and 
 mall foon take my journey with them, for Ifhall 
 never recover my health in this hovel." Tliii 
 furprifed him, and he became more friendly, ad- 
 vifing me not to travel with Moors, who would 
 certainly fell me, and promifing to take me to 
 Iiis brother, about four days journey off, where 
 I might work, and have better conveniences.* 
 " Who can fell me," laid I, " I am neither 
 Chriftian nor Negro : I am a free man, and may 
 work where I pleafe in the country." The Jew 
 looked at me with afloniihment, and aiked me. 
 Where is your home ? Not far hence. My King 
 would certainly take vengeance of thofe who 
 mould fell me as a i'lave. I now ag;am comolained 
 of his ill treatment, but received no correlation, 
 for he left me. On the following day I did 
 not ftir out, as the Jew had told me, that 
 lie would bring me fome plvyfick; and, in fact he 
 
 brought:
 
 
 4g6 TRAVELS IN TH 
 
 brought me in the evening a powder, which, 
 when he was gone, I ftuck under my ftraW ; as* 
 I placed no confidence in him, I did not take it. 
 On the ninth, four armed Moors came to the 
 houfe on horfeback, with a led horfe, and afkecf 
 my hoft whether I was awake. He anfwered, 
 that I could not fet off fo early in the morning, as 
 he had given me fome phyfick to take. The Moors' 
 not being fatisffed with this anfwer; two of them 
 difmounted and came into the yard, and as the 
 Jew attempted to pufh them out, they drew theif 
 fabres ; the Jew then ran away, and they came to 
 the hovel, and called out to me to follow them. I 
 did fo, but was held back by the Jew, who now 
 hurried up to me, and afked me what I was doing. 
 I am going away, I replied. I have paid you for 
 every day, what more can you defirc of me ? You 
 have not paid me, he faid, for my labour and phy- 
 fick ; and till that is done you have no right to go. 
 He now feized me by the arm, and would have led 
 me back again ; but the Moors would hot permit 
 him, and added menaces. This, however, did not 
 prevent him from holding me f'aft, and the better 
 to keep me, he feized me by the hair. Upon this 
 the Moors were in a paflion, drew their fabres* and 
 beat him ; and during this difturbancc, I ran out 
 of the houfe, got on horfeback, and rode away, fol- 
 lowed by the Moors. 
 
 A horrid
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 497 
 
 A horrid wood was in our way ; we faw only 
 fingle huts, till we came to a beautiful village, 
 where we palled the night. Here Arabians> 
 Moors, Jews, and Muflulmen live together. As 
 foon as I came into the public or caravan houfe, 
 I threw myfelf down on the ground, entirely over- 
 come with fatigue. My comrades entered into 
 converfation for fome time with the hoft, who was 
 an Arabian ; he brought me a difh of young date 
 fprouts, and aiked me, what my difeafe was, and 
 whether I exper.ed to recover my health again. 
 I replied, that I mould foon recover, with good 
 lodging and reft. He examined me for fome 
 time, and then left me. From feveral circum- 
 ftances I conjecture, that the Moors had an in- 
 clination to fell me here ; but as the hoft found an 
 objection in my iilnefs, they could not come to an 
 agreement. A female Have brought a heap of 
 palm leaves, on which I laid myfelf down, and 
 fell quietly afleep, without any fort of care about 
 my future deftiny. In the morning the fever 
 came on me again very violently, and as I was 
 tormented with thirft, I ran into the hoft's room 
 to feek for water ; here I faw a difh of four 
 milk, which I inftantly feized, and, from my tor- 
 ture, emptied it almoft completely. On returning 
 back to the couch my fever left me, and indeed 
 for this time it quitted me entirely. I had to 
 K k thank
 
 498 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 thank the four milk alone for my recovery, and I 
 was heartily glad to get rid thus of my mifery. 
 I muft add here, that the villages and places which 
 I pafTed through from the borders hither were 
 Republican, and did not pay taxes to any prince. 
 
 Travelling onward on the nth, we palled by fe- 
 veral villages, belonging to the prince Akumba, 
 Mahomed*, very ill built, and with feemingly very 
 poor inhabitants. Between thefe villages we 
 found fome Arabian hords, in which I every 
 where remarked great poverty. Bad as the coun- 
 try isi for it is every where covered with fand hills, 
 with only here and there a few date-trees ; the 
 population is very great, and from twenty to thirty 
 villages are feen in a day's journey. We palled 
 the night with an Arabian horde, confifting, as 
 they faid, of three thoufand perfons, and which is 
 the largeft in this country. Their Emir refides in 
 his own palace, a half day's journey off to the 
 north. On the i2th we afcended a part of the 
 chain of mountains, twelve days journey in length, 
 
 * I do not find this country in any of my maps. It is four 
 days journey in length, fromeaft to weft, and a day's journey 
 In breadth, from north to fouth. It is governed by an Emir, 
 who, by his knowledge in various ways, difcovers a manifeft 
 fupcriortty over the other princes of Barbary 
 
 covered
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRTCA. 499 
 
 covered with forefts, and filled with tygers, lions, 
 wolves; and other wild beafts, which make the 
 paflage very unfafe, and here particularly great 
 herds of elephants are feen. My guides, who 
 were born and bred in this country, faid, that they 
 had never heard of any one who had pafled 
 through this woody range, from fouth-eaft to 
 north-weft, as every one was in dread of the nu- 
 merous monfters to be found in the journey; and 
 if any one had attempted it, he would moft allur- 
 ed ly have been torn to pieces by ravenous beafts* 
 Before we reached the little fpot adjoining to this 
 range, my guides ftood ftill in terror, expecting 
 every moment a herd of wild beafts, but we faw 
 nothing except a few hundred porcupines, and. 
 other fmall animals. We now arrived at a vaft 
 lake, deriving its waters from the mountains, and 
 on the fouth fide a river flowing from it, named by 
 the Moors Serobago, or Mountain River. Leav- 
 ing the lake on one fide, we reached in a few 
 hours, juft as it was dark, Tinefalb : here it was 
 intended to fell me, and not to convey me to Te- 
 gorarin, which lies two leagues farther off. We 
 took up our lodgings at the public-houfe, and 
 found there tolerable entertainment. Three-of my 
 guides went out, as I obferved, to fee whether 
 they could fell me ; one remained with me, and 
 talked of our farther journey, probably to lull me 
 K k 2 into
 
 500 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 into fecurity. An hour after the other three came 
 back, and foon made known their intentions, for 
 one of then faid, " You may (lay here, and to- 
 morrow you fhall have fome work." " Not as a 
 flave, however," I replied. " No, no," was the 
 anfwer. When I rofe in the morning, two of my 
 guides led me to an inhabitant of the village, who 
 aflced me, from what country I came, and what 
 work I could do. I replied that I was born a 
 fubjecl: of the king of Haoufla, and travelled 
 as a carpenter and joiner, and gun-maker. After 
 fome converfation, the man afked me, whether I 
 had recovered my health, and whether my fa- 
 ther was aMoor. I aflented to both questions. 
 " Good," faid he," then ftay with me, and I will 
 give you employment." Meal and milk were 
 now brought to me ; my guides carried away 
 two goats and two fheep, and took leave of us. 
 After I had eaten my new hoft, who was now 
 my matter, as well as a carpenter and (lave-dea- 
 ler, ordered me to look out for fome pieces of 
 good timber, and to make fomething as a proof 
 of my expertnefs. I looked out for fome pieces, 
 and went into the workfhop, where I found a 
 large broad hatchet, two great duffels, two 
 borers, fome knives, like (hoemakers-knives, and 
 a faw. With thefe inftruments I made a little 
 clofet, with four (helves, with which, as I eafily 
 
 faw,
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 501 
 
 faw my mafter, who was a mere houfe-carpenter, 
 was very much pleafed. Guns were now brought 
 to me, which I repaired, to the great fatisfaciion of 
 their pofleflbrs. Good eating and drinking I had 
 in plenty, but no money ; for my mafter kept that 
 to himfelf, but did not let me perceive that I was 
 his Have. I made fome childrens* coaches, fome 
 running chairs, for little children, litle feats and 
 the like, and could fee that my hoft was well 
 paid for my work ; for example, he fold a child's 
 coach for two good fheep. 
 
 On the 13th of February 1790, he brought four 
 young female flaves into his houfe, and took them 
 on the 20th to Omozab *. For this journey he took 
 me with him, without faying that I mould not return 
 again, but merely pretended that I mould ferve 
 as a guard. He gave me his gun ; I went be- 
 hind, and he himfelf rode on before. When we 
 had gone about a league, the youngeft and pret- 
 tied: of the Haves looked at me feveral times with 
 a moft piteous afpeft, but I did not underftand 
 her figns , and after going another half league, (he 
 could walk no farther, but fet herfelf on the fandj 
 
 * A little town in the kingdom of Mezzab, a day's journey 
 from Mezzabath, a town on the river Oniwoh. 
 
 K k 3 and
 
 502 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 and (hewed me her feet, which were fore from the 
 fand over which we had been travelling, I called 
 out to my mafter that if he did not ride flower, 
 this flave would perifli, and that 1 mould for my 
 own pleafure go flower. This fo incenfed him, that 
 he advanced towards me, and threatened that if I 
 either ftaid behind, or attempted to run away, he 
 would ihoot me dead on the fpot. " You (hall 
 firft be fliot yourfelf." faid I, pretending to be 
 very angry. I had fcarcely pronounced thefe 
 words, when he began to change his tone ; he 
 then difmounted, placed the female flave on the 
 faddle, walked very flowly by my fide, offered me 
 a piece of turtle, and behaved in a very friendly 
 manner. 
 
 About noon we arrived at a village, where he 
 procured plenty of victuals and milk for us, and, 
 after an hour's flay, we were ordered to proceed. 
 When it began to grow dark, we crofled the Ri- 
 ver Oniwoh, in a boat conftru&ed of eight planks, 
 fimilar to what is called a flying ferry-boat, drawn 
 from one fide to the other by means of a rope 
 flretched acrofs the river. We entertained fome 
 hopes that our mafter would now flop, but in this 
 we were deceived, and were obliged to continue 
 on our way till midnight, when we arrived at 
 Cartoh, a beautiful village, inclofed on one tide 
 
 with
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 503 
 
 with a wall. We paffed the night in ahoufe def- 
 tined for the ufe of the caravans ; and here the 
 youngeft of the female flaves, who was about 
 twelve or fourteen years of age, was exchanged 
 for three flieep. As it rained all the next morn- 
 ing, we halted fome time, and then continued our 
 journey, through feveral villages, till the following 
 day, when we reached Cofjahata. Here we were 
 again obliged to crofs the river already mentioned, 
 and having arrived, towards evening, atOmozab, 
 we had to crofs it once more. Omozab is a neat 
 little town, confiding of about three hundred 
 houfes, and thirty or forty huts; the latter (landing 
 by themfelves on the north fide of the town, and 
 inhabited by Arabs and Jews. At this place, to 
 my great furprife, I was exchanged for three 
 flieep and a horfe, and became the property of a 
 Muflulman, who was a merchant. I heartily 
 curfed my old mnfter, and much more the deceit- 
 ful Moor; but this repining did not better my 
 fituation, and I was forced to fubmit to my fate. 
 Fortunately, however, I found my new mafter to 
 be a good-natured, worthy man, who, although 
 a Mahometan, efteemed and refpe&ed all, even 
 thofe who were not of his own religion; and he 
 rewarded fuch of his flaves as diligently executed 
 his commands. On the firft day he addrefled me 
 in the following manner : " You are a Chriftian, 
 K. k 4 but
 
 504 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 but I will not hurt you on that account ; I bought 
 you at a high price, but I (hall not regret my bar- 
 gain if you are diligent, aud behave as you ought ; 
 nay, if, after fome time, I find you to be an ho- 
 ned man, I will provide for you in fuch a man- 
 ner as you have but little idea of at prefent." His 
 friendly afpect, and mild manner of fpeaki ng, as 
 well as his kind behaviour towards the other 
 flaves, entirely gained my affection, and made me 
 refolve to render myfelf deferving of his care and 
 attention. A fmall cottage was affigned me where 
 I could once more fleep comfortably, in the con- 
 fidence that I was in the hands of a worthy man. 
 On the next day the merchant afked me whether 
 I had tools proper for repairing fire-arms. I (hewed 
 him the few I pofleffed, and told him I had been 
 robbed of the reft. He immediately conducted 
 me to the houfe of a perfon who dealt in tools, 
 and ordered me to take fuch as I wanted. This 
 day he would not permit me to do any work, but 
 on the next I took his beft piece, repaired it, and 
 put it in the beft order poftible. As my mailer 
 now perceived that I was an expert workman, 
 and that my labour would produce him confider- 
 able profit, he became ftill more kind to me, and 
 ordered me to be fupplied with the fame food and 
 drink as himfelf ufed, nay, he would fometimes 
 fave for me part of a rare or favory diih. I had 
 
 lived
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 505 
 
 lived with this worthy man a year and three weeks, 
 when he propofed to take me with him to 
 Mezzabath, where he had bufinefs to tranfact. I 
 was at once to guard him on the road, as well as alTift 
 him in his commercial tranfacrions. We departed, 
 on the 3d of May 1791, travelled through a wood, 
 and acrofs fome vallies, and, in the evening, arriv- 
 ed at Mezzabath. This is a handfome and rather a 
 large town, on the River Oniwoh, confiding of 
 about a thoufand houfes, fome of them tolerably 
 good, and others very indiiTerent, the whole 
 arranged in three principal ltrects, with few 
 crofs ftreets. The former are fixty feet wide, 
 raifed near the buildings, but low in the middle. 
 The ftreets are thus formed, in order that the river, 
 when it overflows, may run freely through them. 
 On the north fide of the town ftands a caftle, fur- 
 rounded with a ditch and a wall, which inclofes 
 alfo that fide of the town. People of different 
 nations are to be found here, as indeed, is the 
 cafe over the w T hole country. A confiderable 
 trade is carried on at Mezzabath; a number of 
 caravans having chofen it as a general place of 
 rendezvous, because many articles of commerce 
 can be purchafed here ; and the country around 
 being fertile, affords good and cheap fodder 
 for beads of burthen. On our arrival we 
 found the town full of people and cattle ; a kind 
 
 of
 
 506 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 of fair being now held, to which feveral caravans 
 had brought goods for fale. There were many 
 merchants from the kingdom of Morocco, with 
 whom my mafter did a great deal of bufinefs ; ex- 
 changing ivory, oftrich-feathers, and fkins, for 
 other merchandize. I was not an idle fpedtator, 
 having to convey the purchafed goods to a place of 
 fafety, and to deliver fuch articles as my mafter 
 would not carry along with him, to the caravans 
 which propofed to pafs through his place of refi- 
 dence. 
 
 On the firft day my mafter employed himfelf 
 entirely in trading, and, as I could eafily perceive, 
 made confiderable profits. He paid away con- 
 fiderabie fums of money, and our tiger Ikin, or 
 money-bng *, which I was obliged to carry every 
 where after him, became, like Efop's burthen, 
 lighter and lighter. 
 
 Several merchants fixed their eyes on me, and 
 appeared to be much pleafed with my diligence 
 and activity ; one of them, a friend of my mafter's, 
 laid a fnare for me, which involved me in great 
 diftrefs. One evening, while I was looking after 
 
 * It is made of a whole tiger's (kin, and fattened on the 
 horde's back, in the same manner as our portmanteaus. 
 
 my
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 507 
 
 my horfes, and giving them fodder, this perfon, 
 with the concurrence of the landlord, took away 
 the tyger's fkin which contained our money, and 
 hid it in a corner. On my return I afked the land- 
 lord, whom I had previoufly requefted to keep an 
 eye on the bag, what was become of it ? He defired 
 me to go about my bufinefs, faying that he had 
 fomething elfe to do than to watch my bag; I 
 now became extremely uneafy, ran up and down, 
 in the greateft diftrefs, enquiring for my bag of 
 every one I met, and, at length ^feeing my matter's 
 friend, I afked him alfo.' But he, inftead of an 
 anfwer, gave me a blow on the head, and threa- 
 tened that he would order his flaves to give me 
 the baftinado. This put me out of temper, es- 
 pecially as the Spectators were laughing at my ex- 
 pence. I flew at him in a moment, and gave him 
 some fmart blows about the head. Enraged at 
 this falutation, he called aloud for his flaves, and 
 ordered them to bind me, and keep me fafe in 
 cuftody j but as I was as little difpofed to fubmit 
 to them as to their matter, I knocked down the 
 flrft that approached me, flew to my matter's muf- 
 ket, and, having got hold of it, defired them to re- 
 tire, or I would blow their brains out! Upon 
 this, none of them, ventured to approach me 
 but only threatened and fcolded. Fortunately, 
 my mafter returned at this moment. On entering 
 
 4 the
 
 508 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 the place, and feeing me with his mufket in my 
 hands, he exclaimed, "What is the matter here?'' 
 He then wrefted the piece from me, and would 
 have ftruck me with it, but for the intervention 
 of his friend, who then told him that he intended 
 only to try me, and that he himfelf had been the 
 caufe of the confufion. " You have a faithful and 
 courageous (lave, faid he, let me have him, and I 
 will give you three fat goats in exchange for him.'* 
 They then entered into a conversation refpeting 
 the propofed bargain, and much praife was be- 
 llowed upon me, while they fat drinking of fung- 
 fus *. After feveral bowls had been emptied, 
 and both were fomewhat intoxicated, the bargain 
 concerning me was concluded. My matter, at 
 firft, refufed to fell me, but at length, he agreed to 
 part with me for four fat goats. My new matter 
 was highly pleafed that he thus got me into his 
 fervice, but my old mailer, when recovered from 
 his intoxication, attempted to Hart objections, 
 which, however, were not admitted, and I was 
 obliged to go with my new mailer, whofe name 
 
 * Sungfus is a fort of palm-wine, or beverage, prepared by 
 boiling the tender branches, and black, berries of a particular 
 fpecies of pnim-tree, and bears fome refemblance to the Ger- 
 man beer at Hirfchberg. 
 
 was
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 509 
 
 was Zalaman Mahomed, refiding at Mezza- 
 bath. 
 
 I expected hard treatment from this man, but 
 was, happily, difappointed. lie made me a kind 
 of overfeer, to look after fourteen of his flaves ; and 
 in refpecr. to food, he provided for me much better 
 than the former had done. I remained only four 
 months in the pofleffion of this worthy man, when 
 he fold me to a merchant, who was returning to 
 .Morocco, with a caravan from Mecca. 
 
 CHAP.
 
 510 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Departure of the Caravan from Mezzabath to 
 Morocco. Between the Cozul Mountains and 
 the River Teglat, the Caravan is attacked by a 
 Band of roving Arabs ; who kill four Slaves 
 and three Camels, but are vanquifhed and put to 
 flight. The Caravan rejls two days at Zah- 
 tamy, a Tripoline Village. The Innahy, or 
 Rainy Mountains. Arrives at Azqfia. De- 
 fer iption of the Kingdom of Morocco. Account 
 of the People, of the Manners, Cufoms, Reli- 
 gion, and Form of Government of the Empire, 
 and of the City of Azqfia. The Author is treat- 
 ed kindly by his Maf.er, who dijlinguijhes him 
 from other Slaves. He is redeemed from Slavery 
 by a private Agent of the French Republic, in 
 the year 1796, in confequence of the Repre- 
 fentation of his Cafe made by the Captain of a 
 Dutch Ship, with, whom he embarks for Hol- 
 land. 
 
 /^VN the 6th of September my new matter and I 
 ^^ departed with the caravan. It confided of 
 merchants from various nations, of perfons of dif- 
 
 tin&ion
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 511 
 
 ftin&ion who had been performing a pilgrimage to 
 Mecca, and of flaves. We proceeded flowly on 
 our journey, as the roads were bad, and our beafts 
 were very heavily laden. Every day fome of our 
 company left the caravan, as we approached 
 or paffed their respective deftinations. We 
 travelled over mountains where the path was 
 fometimes fo narrow as only to permit the paf- 
 fage of one perfon at a time. We were conftant- 
 ]y on the watch in thefe parts to prevent being 
 furprifed by the Arabs, as our caravan conveyed 
 many valuable articles, which would have afford- 
 ed rich plunder to thofe robbers. That which we 
 apprehended actually happened on the feventh 
 day after our departure, namely, on the 13th of 
 September. A number of armed Arabs attacked 
 us between the Cozul Mountains and the River 
 Tegtat ; killed four of our flaves and three camels, 
 and, though Jiey loll feveral men in the attack, 
 obilinatelv continued the combat. We defended 
 ourfelves to the utmoll of our power, and at length 
 had the good fortune to repel the whole 
 troop. The victory however w T as not obtained 
 till two of our merchants and five flaves were 
 wounded, befides the four that were killed. We 
 preferved all our property, and the burthens of the 
 flain camels were diftributed among thofe that re- 
 mained. My fervitude now became extremely 
 
 laborious.
 
 512 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 laborious. One of the flaves belonging to my 
 matter had run away, two others were among 
 thofe who were killed, and thus the care of two 
 camels and two horfes neceflarily devolved upon 
 me. 
 
 Wc remained two days at a fmall village named 
 Zahtamy, which belongs to Tripoli, and is a very 
 chearful, bufy place, as feveral caravans touch 
 there in their journies to Egypt and Mecca. Some 
 of thefe remain there during what is termed their 
 winter feafon. At this village we repacked our 
 goods, and dreffed the wounds of thofe who had 
 fuffered in our combat with the Arabs. From 
 this period I could pay but little attention to the 
 villages, towns, and other places we paffed 
 through, my time being too much engaged, 
 having as much bufinefs on my hands as had been 
 previoully manag-sd by three flaves. During the 
 day I was on horfeback, leading the two camels ; 
 in the evening I was obliged to feed them, to un- 
 load the bales, and in addition to all this keep 
 watch every third night. When I wifhed to be 
 informed of any thing I found myfelf greatly at a, 
 lofs for want of a perfect knowledge of the lan- 
 guage, as in t;he whole caravan there were only 
 four merchants with whom I could converfe. I, 
 however, ohffrved that the country fituated to the 
 ' weftward,
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 513 
 
 vvcilward, is in many places fertile, and in others 
 barren ; but it is in general well inhabited. As far 
 as the Innahy or rainy mountains, which lie in the 
 centre of the kingdom of Morocco, and are from 
 fouth to north, ten days journey in length, and one 
 in breadth, we every clay met with villages and 
 cottages, particularly near the rivers, where we 
 found good pairure for the cattle. Six refting days 
 excepted, we had travelled eight-and-twenty days 
 and three nights fucceflively, when w r e arrived 
 on the 1 1th of October, at Azafia. 
 
 The empire of Morocco is one of the moft 
 beautiful and fertile countries upon earth, but is 
 not cultivated, as we might expect it to be, undef 
 a milder government. The defpotifm and ca- 
 pricious humour of the emperor proves an infur- 
 mountable bar to any efforts which the fpirit of 
 induftry might produce among the natives, and 
 reduces them to a ftate of indolence and indiffe- 
 rence, bordering upon apathy. He who, by his 
 provident and fuccefsful labour, has improved 
 the foil which he cultivates, is on that very account 
 deemed, as it were, obnoxious, and is forced to 
 contribute in a larger proportion. Let the hafveft 
 be ever fo abundant, the farmer mull fcarcely hope 
 to retain a bare fufficiency for the fupport of him- 
 felf and family. Either the emperor in perfon, or 
 I, 1 his
 
 H TRAVELS IN THE - 
 
 his rapacious prefers, take every thing to them- 
 feivcs, and even employ force when the arts of 
 cunning and fraud fail in obtaining their pur- 
 pofes. The prefent emperor, it is faid, is not of fo 
 cruel and ferocious a temper as his predeceflbr 
 was, yet a day feldom pafles in which fome unfortu- 
 nate wretch is not executed by his orders, or even 
 put to death by his own hands. The cruelty of this 
 barbarian is neverthelefs endured with thegreateft 
 patience; and the deluded victims even efteem 
 themfelves fortunate when they learn that they are 
 to fuffer by the emperor's own hands ; indeed they 
 revere him as a defcendant of the great prophet, 
 and confider all his commands as the decree of 
 heaven. In the wildeft and moft unexplored re- 
 gions of Africa, men more ftupid and ignorant 
 are no where to be found than in this empire. 
 
 As every male above the age of fifteen years, 
 mud ferve as a foldier, when called upon, the em- 
 peror has it in his power to raife an army of 
 200,000 men within a few days ; but little depen- 
 dence can, however, be placed on fuch troops, 
 as moft of them, the moors excepted, are raw, and 
 undifciplined. 
 
 The emperor's body guard confifts ( f fix hun- 
 dred mooriih horfemen, who have been accuflom- 
 
 ed
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 515 
 
 ed to enjoy every poflible privilege, and who, in 
 return, are guilty of every kind of excefs and bru- 
 tality. The fuprcme power is lodged in the hands 
 of the governors, but in inferior plaees, fubordinate 
 magiitrates or officers rule according to their own 
 pleafure j the emperor feems to give himfelf very 
 little trouble about them, or their proceedings, 
 provided they treat his fubjects with fufficient 
 harlhnefs, and rigour. When a fubjecl: ventures 
 to conceal any of his effects, or any part of his 
 grain, after it has once been demanded in the name 
 of the emperor, or a governor, and perfifts in 
 denying that he has any, fhould the effects or grain 
 happen afterwards to be difcovered in his poffef- 
 fion, the poor man is forthwith adjudged to have 
 forfeited his life and property ; nay he muff con- 
 fider it as a great favour, if the punifhment be 
 mitigated by putting him in irons for life* and by 
 baniihing his family out of the country. 
 
 The Mahometan priefts, who are not very nu- 
 merous in this country, frequently perpetrate, with 
 impunity, the moil horrid ats of infamy, injuftice; 
 and murder. 
 
 It is a common practice among them, to carry 
 
 the Koran about with them, and they wifti it to 
 
 be thought that they employ great care in the 
 
 L 1 2 itudy
 
 516 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 fludy of it. They exhort the people to attend 
 prayers, and to follow the precepts of that book; 
 they run three times a day to the mofque, and 
 like the priefts of Baal, bellow as if defirous to 
 awake the Deity, whom they pretend to adore, out 
 of a profound fleep. The prophet too is implored, 
 that he may fuffer his fon the emperor to reign 
 Jong on the earth ; but their real aim is not to 
 preach morality, much lefs to enlighten the peo- 
 ple; on the contrary, theironly wifh is to ftrengthen 
 themfelves in their own authority, and fecure an 
 Unlimited afcendancy over the public mind. They 
 appear to pray, however, with great fervour and 
 devotion when imploring God and the prophet to 
 deftroy the infidels, and caufe them to perifli. 
 They employ themfelves feveral times daily in 
 inilxucYirtg youth, but their leilbns tend only to 
 ftifle the fuggeftions of reafon in the young mind, 
 and to imprefs a flavim fear of the prophet, and of 
 themfelves, whom they would have them confider 
 as his fervants. 
 
 Polygamy is common in this country, it is not 
 unufual with the Moors to have from four to fix 
 wives at a time, but they as frequently find oppor- 
 tunities of getting rid of them. When the wife 
 of a moor dies fuddenly, no enquiry is made re- 
 flecting the caufe, and if any one mould come 
 
 forward
 
 INTERIOR OF A1-1SCA, , 517 
 
 forward to prove that murder has been committed 
 on the deceafed, he would not obtain a hearing. 
 
 When a moor thinks fit to afk in marriage the 
 daughter of a working tradeiman, the mull be 
 inevitably delivered up to him, unlefs her rela- 
 tions chufe to run the riik of having their houfes 
 plundered, or of being themfelves fecretly aflaffi- 
 nated. The women are obliged to live very re- 
 clufe in feparate apartments. 
 
 Among the firfr. clafs of inhabitants, confiding 
 of merchants, priefts, officers, and the like, fome 
 men of integrity, and of a liberal turn of mind 
 may be met with, but the greateft part may be 
 termed with propriety bafe and unprincipled 
 villains, efpecially the priefts and the officers, who 
 are extremely treacherous and malignant. The 
 merchants are obliged to pay the tenth part of all 
 merchandize as a tax to the emperor, or his gover. 
 nors, and they muit alfo pay a capitation tax, a 
 war tax, and a tax for their personal fafety * ; be- 
 tides thefe ufual taxes, free contributions, as pre- 
 fents to the emperor, are very frequently demanded, 
 
 * This tax is levied by the governor, who provides a guard 
 to protect the merchants warehoufes during the night. 
 
 and 
 
 L 1 3
 
 518 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 and in addition to all thefe impofts, every one 
 muft pay a certain regular tax for the fupport of 
 the priefts. 
 
 Jews are neither permitted to follow any trade, 
 nor pofTefs property, but they are forced, like pub- 
 lic flaves, to perform the lowed: menial fcrvices, 
 and to endure the hardeft treatment, without daring 
 to complain. 
 
 The town of Azafia is about one-fourth as large 
 as the city of Morocco ; it is handfomely built, 
 and carries on a confiderable trade, which is like- 
 wife daily increafing. It is faid that between 
 eighty and ninety foreign fhips, laden with mer- 
 chandize, come to anchor annually in the road. 
 
 My mafter poflefTed eight negroe flaves, and two 
 moorifh fervants, who were not fubje&ed to hard 
 or cruel treatment, as no more labour was requir- 
 ed of them than they could perform by moderate 
 exertions. I was entrufted with the care of four 
 horfes ancf three camels, and although I received 
 the fame allowance as the reft of the flaves, I 
 was almoft daily provided with other dimes by my 
 mafter. He was much pleafed with my diligence ; 
 I repaired two faddlcs and the furniture belong- 
 
 ing
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 519 
 
 ing to them as well as I could ; I dreflfed the 
 leather, fuch as is commonly ufed here for fi- 
 milar purpofes, with afhes and fait, and made it 
 pliable with fat taken from (heep's tails; I like- 
 wife repaired all the fire-arms which were in the 
 houfe, and fuggefted a number of improvements 
 in my mailer's domeftic ceconomy. 
 
 When I firft entered into his fervice I received 
 the common flavc-drefs, confiding of a blue fhirr, 
 blue ilriped trawlers, and a coarfe woollen cloak, 
 but I was foon defired to lay thefe afide, and my 
 mailer made me a prefent of fome half-worn cloaths, 
 among which was a good cloak. 
 
 When my mafler travelled to other towns I ge- 
 nerally accompanied him, and on thefe occa/ions 
 was treated by him as his intimate friend ; I en- 
 joyed the fame fare, flept on the fame fort of 
 couch, and tranfacled bufinefs for him in the 
 courfe of his commercial affairs. 
 
 On this occafion I could not but recollect the 
 tales of thofe who pretended to have been flaves in 
 this country, and who fpoke of nothing but the fe- 
 vered and moil cruel treatment. I muft, however, 
 beg leave to contradict them, as I had many oppor- 
 tunities of obferving, that faithful and diligent Chrif- 
 
 L 1 4 tian
 
 520 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 tian flaves are often treated here with great le- 
 nity. When I had remained almoft a year in this 
 place, my mafter took me with him on board a 
 Spanilh veiTel, which had lately arrived, that I 
 might, with the afljftance of other flaves, carry 
 home fuch goods as he might purchafe. As foon 
 as 1 had fet my foot on the deck I was furrounded 
 by feveral of the officers and foremaft men, who 
 aflced me a number of queftions, but finding that 
 J was unacquainted with their language, they 
 called in a failor who underftood the Englifli and 
 Dutch, and who on this occafion ferved as an inter- 
 preter. The officers defired him to demand of 
 me whether I was a Christian ? How I came to be 
 a Have ? How long I had been here ? and if I had 
 any defire to be fet at liberty? I anfwered their 
 firft queftions agreeably to truth, and in reply to 
 the latter, told them that I had no reafon to be 
 diflatisfied with my fituation, as I was treated by 
 my mafter more like a friend or relation, than a 
 flave. My mafter, who was Handing clofe to the 
 captain, and at a little diftance from me, was high- 
 ly pleafed to hear me thus exprefs my affeclion and 
 efteem for him. When the officers and foremaft- 
 men found that they could make no imprcffion 
 upon me in refpect to changing my religion, the 
 
 4 fhip's
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 521 
 
 (hip's chaplain approached, and attempted to pcr- 
 fuade me, by reprefenting that I could not openly 
 profefs my own religion here, and had therefore 
 much better throw myfelf on the generofity of the 
 Spaniards. To this prieft I returned no anfvver, 
 but advanced towards my mailer. The prieft ftill 
 accofted me, and offered me fome beads to fay 
 my prayers by : but on refufing to accept them, 
 He branded me as a heretic, undeferving of the kind 
 intentions they had expreffed towards me. My 
 mafter feemed highly delighted with my beha- 
 viour, and promifed to reward me at a proper 
 time. I mould have been very willing to depart 
 with an Englifli, French, Dutch, Daniih, or Swe- 
 diih veflel, but the Spaniards and Portuguefe I 
 detefted, as I was no ftranger to their ill treatment 
 of redeemed flaves in general, and efpecially of 
 fuch as are Proteftants. 
 
 The next day about noon, my mafter charged 
 both his free fervants to confider me hereafter not 
 as a Have, but as their comrade ; and they were 
 ordered alfo to give me a ihare of the prefents 
 which they received at different times. This w r as 
 far from being agreeable to them, and they there- 
 fore made it their ftudy to impede me in my occu- 
 pations, and toharafsme by every means they could, 
 on every occafioiij but I patiently fubmitted to 
 
 this
 
 522 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 this treatment, as thinking myfelf happy in the 
 favour of my matter. One day one ofthefe fellows 
 gave me fuch a violent blow on the head, that 
 the blood gufhed from my nofe and mouth ; even 
 this treatment I intended to bear with patience, 
 to avoid drawing upon myfelf the hatred of other 
 Moors ; but it fo happened, that my matter, a few 
 minutes after, entered our room, and feeing the 
 blood flow, afked what had happened ? I then 
 informed him what I had been obliged to fuffer 
 for fome time paft, and of the blow I had juft re- 
 ceived. The narrative did not fail to excite my 
 mailer's indignation"; he immediately laid hold of 
 the offender, and after correcting him with a (lick 
 as long as he had any ftrength remaining, turned 
 him out of doors. 
 
 
 In the fpace of a year and four months I had faved 
 feventy Spanifh dollars from the prefents which I 
 now and then received when I hadcommiffions to 
 execute, which I always did punctually, efpecially 
 on board the French mips, and at the French 
 counting-houfes. Among the Europeans I had 
 gained many friends, particularly a Mr. Le Creger, 
 belonging to a French mercantile houfe, who, on 
 Fridays, when I had leave to vifit him, for a few 
 hours, entertained me with news from Europe, 
 'lliere were fome other French gentlemen, who 
 
 had
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 523 
 
 had arrived here in the year 1793, and had obtain- 
 ed leave to fettle here, among whom was a M. de 
 Fabre, who redded iix months in my mailer's 
 houfe, and who teftified much friendfliip for me ; 
 he treated me without referve, gave me good ad- 
 vice, made me prefents of old cloaths, and when 
 he quitted our houfe, prefented me with a louis 
 d'or. 
 
 In the month of November, 1796, an Englifli 
 veffel, and in a few days after, a Dutch one, under 
 Pruihan colours, arrived in the roads. I was 
 obliged to go on board both thefe veffels on my 
 matter's bufinefs, but particularly the latter, where 
 I faw a number of Frenchmen, belonging to the 
 fhip. Captain Grade, the commander, a native 
 of Flanders, laid me under many obligations, often 
 converfed with me, enquired into my circum- 
 fiances, and took every opportunity of fpeaking 
 to others in my favour. As I generally went on 
 board twice a day, I foon became acquainted with 
 the Dutch failors and the mate, and they offered 
 to take me to Europe, if I would quit my fitua- 
 tion as a flave, and purchafe my liberty. 
 
 The mate, whofe name was Manke, a native 
 of Zwoll, repeated the offer, as often as I came 
 on board, and oppofed many arguments, to my 
 
 wifli
 
 524 TRAVELS IN THE 1 
 
 wifti of flaying a little longer with my matter, 
 urging, that in cafe of his mailer's death, I 
 might fall in the hands of fome fellow, of a brutal 
 difpofition, or that I might be flandered, and 
 rendered miferable by Moors, or even by my fellow 
 flaves. I ferioufly reflected for a few days, on 
 the arguments he made ufe of; and at length 
 told him, that I had refolved to accompany him 
 to Europe, if he would take the trouble to a(k 
 my mafter, what fum he required for my liberty. 
 This he did the very next day, when he came 
 to our houfe, in company with the captain, who 
 had feveral accounts to fettle with my mafter. 
 
 After their commercial matters were ad- 
 jufted, he -proceeded to aik my mafter, what 
 fum he would take for my ranfom? His anfwer was, 
 that hitherto, I had (hewn no defire to return to 
 my own country, but that if I now felt an incli- 
 nation to go, he would not be the means of 
 detaining me. I was then called in, and afked, 
 if I had any defire to return to my native country ? 
 I replied, " That I fhould have no objection to 
 end my days where I was, provided, I could be 
 allured my parents were not alive j but as it was 
 natural to think, they mutt be extremely uneafy, 
 refpecting my fate, an inclination to return to 
 Europe existed in my breaft ; and therefore I re- 
 quefted he would grant me my liberty." My 
 
 mafter
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 525 
 
 mafter anfvvercd, ** I do not wifh to part with 
 you, becaufe you are a good, worthy man, and 
 fuperiorto many mu(TuImcn,but I will not oppofe 
 your wifh, and therefore afk for your releafe only 
 200 * mardens or piafters." I (hook my head, and 
 told him, that as it was out of my power to raife 
 fuch a fum, I fhould be obliged to remain fome 
 time longer ; but the captain and the mate, after 
 fome further conversation, promifed to call on 
 me again in the afternoon, and try what could be 
 done. I immediately replied, that if I could pur- 
 chafe my liberty with my own money, I would 
 go with them ; but that I would not accept of any 
 advance from them, as I fhould then, in order to 
 repay that fum, find myfelf under the neceffity 
 of entering, for fome years,into the Dutch fervice, 
 which I thought far below that of mv good maf- 
 ter. They defired me to confider the matter, and 
 departed, promifing to return in the afternoon. 
 I now thought no more about my liberty, as I 
 was' determined not to be redeemed with the 
 money of ftrangers : but in an hour after, a Dutch- 
 man of diftincYton, came to the houfe, and called 
 
 * A Spanifh marden and a piaftre, are of the fame value, 
 though the impreffion is different. The marden has on one 
 fide two pillars, with the Spanifli arms between them, and the 
 round ones are of inferior value to the fruuire ones. 
 
 ' for
 
 526 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 for my matter. This gentleman had refuled a 
 year in the city, in no public character, but feemed 
 to be a fecret agent of the French republic. He 
 informed my mailer, that a Dutch captain and a 
 mate had juft called upon him, of whom he had 
 learned, that I wiihed to return to Europe, if I 
 could raife the money fufficient for my redemp- 
 tion ; that he intended to redeem me from 
 flavery, and was ready to advance the money 
 expected. My mafter then fent for me, and men- 
 tioned to me, in prefence of this gentleman, whofe 
 name was Van der Haft, what had been propofed. 
 1 thanked the gentleman refpeclfully ; but added, 
 that my intention was to purchafe my liberty, at 
 a future day, by my own induftry, that I might 
 not be under the obligation, to ferve my deliverer 
 for a term of years, and perhaps, be forced at laft 
 to go to America, or to the Cape ; and that, be- 
 fides, I mould be deemed a deferter, and puniihed 
 as fuch, if I arrived in Holland, without having 
 completed my fervice to the company. After 
 fome remarks, this gentleman informed me, that 
 the company had very little authority at prefenr, 
 and that the money he intended to pay tor my 
 ranfom, did not belong to them, but to frimfelf 
 alone ; that he made me a prefent of it, and woukl 
 give me ample fecurity in writing, that no man 
 living mould ever have it in his power to trouble 
 
 me.
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 527 
 
 ine, on account of my redemption. I was greatly 
 aftonifhed at what I heard, but remained doubt- 
 ful, and not perfectly fatisfied in my mind, appre- 
 hending that he might have fome private views j 
 but when my mafter himfelf appeared to take 
 pleafure in the good fortune which had befallen 
 me, and began to perfuade me to accept the of- 
 fered donation, I returned the mod refpeclful and 
 fincere thanks to my benefactor, and embraced 
 his kind offer. He immediately paid down the 
 ranfom, wrote the promifed indemnity, and re- 
 turned me my own feventy dollars, which I had 
 offered him in part of payment, wifhed me a 
 profperous voyage, and took his leave. 
 
 In the afternoon, the captain returned, and 
 enquired, whether I intended to perfift in my 
 intention of flaying. I related to him what had 
 happened; but he diffembled, and pretended he 
 had not the leafl knowledge of my benefactor : 
 when I mentioned, however, that my deliverer had 
 told me his name, he could no longer deny, that 
 it was through his means, that my fituation had 
 been made known to him. In the mean time, 
 he defired rne to prepare myfelf to go on board, 
 as he propofed to fail at the expiration of three 
 days. My mailer then made me a prefent of fome 
 mats, dried meat, flour, old clothes, and other 
 1 ai tides
 
 528 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 articles ; and on the 1 1th of November 1796, ac- 
 companied me on board the veflfel, which was to 
 carry me to my native land, tears all the while 
 flowing copioufly from his eyes. As the wind 
 was contrary, we could not fail inftantly , but no 
 time was loft, and every preparation was made 
 for our departure. The whole fhip's company, 
 including officers, confided of thirty-four perfons. 
 
 CHAP.
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 529 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 Voyage from Morocco to Holland. The VeJJel 
 meets xvith two heavy Gales; lofes her Fore- 
 majt, but the Damage is repaired. Is detained 
 by an Englijh Frigate. The Author is at- 
 tacked by a Fever. The VeJJel arrives in the 
 Texel. The Author proceeds to Amjierdam in 
 a /mailer VeJJel , on his Arrival in that City, 
 is arrefted, and detained in Prifon until the 
 2d of May, when he is fentenced to ferve two 
 Years in a Dutch Regiment. A Captain of a 
 PruJJian Ship, from Dantzic, protects him, and 
 obtains his Dif charge. With this Captain, the 
 Author Jets fail, and after a profperous Voyage 
 of eighteen Days, arrives at Dantzic. His 
 Friend procures him a Pq/Jport, by means of 
 ivhich he returns to his native City. 
 
 /^\N the 13th of November, we fet fail with a 
 fair wind, and foon had the fatisfation to 
 come within light of Gibraltar ; but before we 
 could make the bay, we were overtaken by a 
 ftorm, and loft our fore-mail: ; when the gale had 
 abated, we worked in, repaired the damage we 
 M m had
 
 530 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 had fuftained, and replenifhed our water-ca(ks. 
 Near Cadiz, we encountered another heavy gale, 
 and were likewife detained by an Englifli frigate, 
 the officers of which fearched our veflfel with 
 great ftri&nefs. They found nothing to authorife 
 them to capture the veflel, but they took two men 
 out of the fhip, who had formerly been in the 
 Englifli fervice. 
 
 After this period, we had much bad weather, 
 rain and fnow fucceeded each other, and we 
 were expofed to a great deal of fatigue. In con- 
 fequence of the wet weather, I caught cold, and 
 fell ill of a fever, which foon reduced me to a very 
 low ftate. We were fo fortunate, however, as 
 to reach theTexel; and on the 9 th of February 
 1797, we caft anchor in the roads. 
 
 I embarked immediately on board a fmall vef- 
 fel *, and the next day proceeded to Amfterdam. 
 I had fcarcely fet my foot on fhore, when I was 
 flopped by a French guard, confiding of an officer 
 and four foldiers. The officer afked me, " h\ 
 what fliip I had arrived?" I anfwered, "In a 
 
 * Small vefii-ls of this kind, are employed to carry merchan- 
 dize up to Amsterdam, to and from the large fh ; p?, winch are 
 too heavy to pal's over the Ihoals. 
 
 merchant
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 531 
 
 merchant brig, named the New Jagter Huis." 
 " What countryman are you?" added he. " A 
 German." " Are you a failor or a paflenger ?" 
 " I am a paflenger, and come from Morocco, 
 where I have been a Have." " Where is your 
 paffport ?" " The captain told me, that I wanted 
 no paflport, as he intended to be anfwerable for 
 me." " You rauft flop here, until your captain 
 arrives," replied the officer. I was then con- 
 ducted by a foldier to the guard houfe, where I 
 was again queftioned, and told that I mutt remain 
 there until the captain's arrival. In lefs than an 
 hour, above two hundred people had aflembled, 
 who, having learned that a Have was arrived from 
 Morocco, eagerly wiflied to fee me. I fent for 
 fomething to eat and drink, purchafed fome 
 clothes, and made myfelf perfectly happy ; but 
 when I found next day, that I was not at liberty 
 to go where I pleafed, I became uneafyj 
 efpecially, as I confidered, that as I was a de- 
 ferter, ranfom-money might be demanded ; or I 
 might be again forced into the company's fervice. 
 
 On the 6th day of my confinement, a young 
 and humane officer, who came on duty as com- 
 mander of the guard, entered into converfation 
 with me. To hirn I related whence I came, and 
 what hardfhips I had fuiTered; and at length 
 
 M m 2 afked
 
 I 
 
 532 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 alked him, " Why I was not fet at liberty ?" He 
 replied, " That information had been received, 
 that I was a deferter, and that enquiries were now 
 making to find out the truth." " If I am con- 
 fidered as a deferter," faid I, " Why am I not 
 maintained at the public expence ; and why am I 
 obliged, for my fupport, to fpend the few (hillings 
 which I earned and faved with fo much labour 
 and trouble, while I was a flave ?" To this I re- 
 ceived no anfwer. The officer left me; and, in 
 about an hour after, three Dutch millings *, were 
 given to me ; for which, however, I could fcarcely 
 obtain a pound and a half of bread, as the necef- 
 faries of life were, at this time, exceffively dear. 
 Every morning, I received the fame fum, which 
 only procured me a breakfaft. In the courfe of 
 eight days, I was examined three times at the 
 guard houfe ; but obtained no further informa- 
 tion. I was defired to deliver up the papers 
 which I had in my poflellion ; but this, 1 obfti- 
 nately refufed to comply with, and maintained, 
 that no mr,n had the fmalleft right to take them 
 from me. I now became very impatient, and told 
 thofe who demanded them of me, " That I had 
 been better treated in the heart of Africa, and even 
 in Morocco. On the fecond of May, a fecretary 
 
 A Dutch fhilling is worlh fixpence Englifli. 
 
 brought
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 5S3 
 
 brought me intelligence, that I was condemned 
 to ferve three years as a foldier or failor; and that 
 within three days, I muft give in my anfwer. I 
 made no reply, but felt mueh dejected. I formed 
 plans of efcape, but none likely to fucceed ; my 
 deliverance, however, was nearer than I ex- 
 pected. 
 
 On the 5th of May, while I was fitting, deeply 
 immerfed in thought, before the guard-houfe, I 
 raifed my eyes, and faw three failors, who wore 
 ftriped faflies round the middle. One of them 
 looking towards me, I beckoned him to approach 
 me. He came ; and I afked him, whether they 
 were in the Dutch fervice ? He replied, that they 
 were Pruffians, and belonged to Dantzic. " I 
 am a Pruffian, alfo," faid I, " but am detained 
 here, in confinement. " You mull fpeak to our 
 captain," replied he ; " here he comes, that is 
 he in the Pruffian uniform ; he is a good man, 
 his name is Rofmer." They then left me ; and 
 when the captain paffed, I addreffed him by his 
 name, and requeiied to fpeak with him. I then 
 related, in few words, the caufe of my confine- 
 ment, and begged his advice and affiftance. " Do 
 you wifli to return to your native place," faid he. 
 " Yes, Sir, I do not like to remain among thefe 
 boorMi Dutchmen." " Well," added he, " I 
 M m 3 will
 
 534 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 will do what T can, to liberate you from your pre- 
 fent difagreeable fituation ; and if you'll work 
 your paflage, I'll take you along with me." u That 
 I will with pleafure," replied I. He immediately 
 went to the officer of the guard ; a(ked him, why 
 I was detained, and prevented from returning 
 home ; and what was intended to be done with 
 me ? The officer anfwered, that I was a defer- 
 ter. " He can no longer be confidered as a de- 
 ferter," faid the captain, " he is free ; and if he 
 is not inftantly fet at liberty, I (hall write to the 
 king, my matter." The officer referred him to a 
 fuperior officer; and the captain retired, as foon as 
 he perceived, that nothing further could be done 
 at this time; and afterwards fent a failor to me, 
 with a bottle of wine and fome roaft meat, and 
 ordered him to ftop with me, left I fiiould be fent 
 away to fome other place. About an hour after- 
 wards, four officers, the above-mentioned fecretarv, 
 and the Pruffian captain, returned to the guard- 
 houfe, and I was examined once more. When the 
 examination was finifhed, the major faid, " How 
 can we acl otherwife, the man is a deferter ? He 
 ought at lead to ferve out the remainder of the 
 time, for which he was bound at the Cape." The 
 Pruffian captain replied, "That the company had 
 no occafion to trouble themfelves any longer 
 about deferters from the Cape of Good Hope, 
 
 fincc
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 535 
 
 fince it was now in the poflellion of the Englifh ; 
 and at prefent," added he, " you have no autho- 
 rity in any thing rcfpeeling that place." The 
 Dutch officers ftarted new objections ; but the 
 captain would not be put off. " The man fhall 
 go along with me," faid he, " he is no criminal, 
 confequently, he ought not to be detained." They 
 ftill refufed, however, to fet me at liberty ; and 
 the captain declared, in the moll pofitive manner, 
 that he would immediately forward my cafe to the 
 king, his mailer, and would not fail till he had 
 received his majefty's determination upon the 
 fubjecl. When the major heard this, he lowered 
 his tone, and agreed, that if I would pay the ex- 
 pences of my examination, and of my mainte- 
 nance, he would releafe me. " Make out your 
 bill, gentlemen," faid the captain, " it lliall be 
 paid by the king." Then defiring his fervant to 
 accompany me to his lodgings, and to remain 
 with me, I hurried away with my conductor, 
 On the captain's return, I fincerely thanked him 
 for his kindnefs, and behaved towards him, a$ 
 was my duty, towards fo aclive a benefactor ! 
 
 We remained on fhore till the 1 4th of May, 
 
 when having purchafed the neceffary provifions, 
 
 we left Amfterdam, and fet fail in our fmall Pruf- 
 
 fian veflel, having eighteen hands on board. 
 
 M m 4 Aftet
 
 536 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 After a profperous voyage of thirteen days, we 
 arrived at Dantzic. I was now at a lofs how 
 to obtain a paflport ; but in this affair, the cap- 
 tain was equally kind, and procured me one. 
 
 With tears of gratitude, I took my leave of 
 this generous and benevolent man, quitted Dant- 
 zic, and proceeded to my native city, happy and 
 thankful that I had overcome fo many dangers. 
 
 OF
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 537 
 
 OF THE 
 
 CONSTRUCTION OF THE MAP. 
 
 OF all the parts of the earth, there is none, 
 refpecting which we are fo deficient in geogra- 
 phical knowledge, as Africa ; every fact, therefore, 
 which tends to make us better acquainted 
 with the ftill numerous unknown diftricls of this 
 extenfive quarter of the world, is highly inte- 
 refting. 
 
 Notwithftanding the great zeal, which at prefent 
 prevails, for exploring the interior of Africa, it will 
 be a long time before we fhall become inti- 
 mately acquainted even with all its principal di- 
 vifions, and be able to determine with precifion, 
 their relative fituations. 
 
 Can it be believed, that in examining the 
 maps of the interior of this country, we often 
 1
 
 538 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 caft the eye over three or four hundred leagues, 
 without meeting with a (ingle place laid down 
 aftronomically, or the fituation of which has been 
 accurately determined ? 
 
 The only probable means of remedying this de- 
 fect is, to employ travelling dijlances> by which, 
 to determine as nearly as is practicable, the fitua- 
 tion of places. It is true, indeed, that geogra- 
 phers have always employed this method, and 
 muft do fo every where ; but it is capable of 
 being further extended, than is generally be- 
 lieved, 
 
 The manner of travelling in Africa, does not, 
 however, permit us to apply this mode with the 
 fame precifion, that we can in cultivated 'and 
 civilized ftat.es, and furnifhes us only with refults 
 for a very fmall portion of this quarter of the 
 world. Thefe refults are moreover extremely 
 uncertain, as the few travels now exifting, Hill 
 want the precifion neceffary for this purpofe, 
 and do not fupply us with the number of correct 
 data, which in better explored countries, give a 
 mean, not very remote from the truth. 
 
 Confidcring thofe difficulties, the publication 
 of the prefent journey, will certainly be received 
 
 as
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 539 
 
 as a valuable contribution towards the geogra- 
 phical furvey of Africa. Nor will its value in 
 this refpect be lessened, even if feveral points in 
 the journey fhould be difputed, which, however, 
 this is not a place to examine. 
 
 The intention of the map is, not fimply to 
 afford a guide to the reader, in following the 
 traveller, but rather to excite and facilitate in- 
 quiries into the interior of this vaft continent. 
 
 An account of the manner in which it has been 
 conftrucled, and of the authorities that have been 
 followed, is therefore the more neceffary. This 
 will ihew, it is hoped, that though it was neceffary 
 to complete it in a very fliort time, it has been 
 conflrucled with confiderable care. In regard to 
 the projection, that of Mercator was chofen, be- 
 caufe it is the moft convenient for laying down 
 thofe parts of the world, which the author has 
 traversed ; and although it has the difadvantage 
 of extending the higher latitudes too much, yet, 
 as the equator cuts nearly through the middle of 
 Africa, this inequality is the lefs obfervable. 
 In calculating: the latitudes for everv five de- 
 grees, the well known formula for thefe latitudes 
 of 79.3010 Parifian miles; and for every five 
 degrees of longitude 0.81 166 inches have been 
 adopted. It is much to be wifhed, that the con- 
 
 ftruclor
 
 540 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 frruclor of every map would give in numbers, 
 the fcale employed as the bafis in conftrucling it ; 
 and geographers would certainly not confider 
 this information as fuperfluous. 
 
 The author traced out a track of his journey 
 on a chart, made by Mannert, which was pub- 
 limed in the year 1794, by Weigel and Schneider, 
 without the name of its meritorious draughtfman. 
 It might, perhaps, be fuppofed that I had only 
 to copy that track, by applying the declination of 
 the magnetic needle, according to Major Ren- 
 nel's hypothecs; it was, however, very often 
 impracticable to follow his directions, fo as to fall 
 upon the places he mentioned. I was therefore 
 obliged to infert thefe places according to the 
 beft fources of information, and to make the map 
 coincide with the author's route, in the beft manner 
 I could. The compafs, which the author made 
 ufe of, feems to have been inaccurate. 
 
 The known aftronomieal points are but few, 
 and the greateft part of thofe communicated in 
 Niehbuhr's, Bruce* s, and Brozcn's Travels, with 
 the late difcoveries of the French in Egypt, were 
 too remote from the track of our author, to enable 
 me to make any ufe of them. 
 
 In
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 541 
 
 In the northern part of Africa, the coaft from 
 Cape Spartel as far as Cape Verd, is accurately- 
 laid down in a voyage of the Ifis frigate, publiflied 
 by Fleuriku, at Paris, in two volumes 4to, 1793. 
 Thefe points were admitted as a bails, but a few 
 principal points mentioned in that voyage, were 
 laid down, as given in La Connoifance des Temps 
 pour Can xi. and others, were corrected on the 
 authority of that book. Thence to Cape Negro, 
 the charts given by Bellin, in the General Hiftory 
 of Voyages, form very good helps for the conti- 
 nuation of the coaft. Cape Negro is a point 
 aftronomically determined. Thence to the Cape 
 of Good Hope, Mr. Arrowsmith feems mod 
 corre&ly to have laid down the coaft, in his fecond 
 map of the world, published in 1795 ; he had the 
 advantage, in this track, of two aftronomically 
 determined points, not afcertained in any other 
 chart *. 
 
 The pofition of the Cape of Good Hope, and 
 eipecially of Cape Town, has been accurately 
 determined by La Caille ; but from thefe points, 
 as far as the Red Sea, where Niehbukrs deter- 
 
 * The tranflator is happy to add this teflimony in favour of 
 the great and acknowledged merit, of all the maps and charts 
 conflrucled by Mr. Arrowsmith. 
 
 minations
 
 542 TRAVELS IN THE 
 
 minations commence, that coaft, Madagascar ex- 
 cepted, is one of the leaft known parts of the 
 earth. 
 
 I have availed myfelf in this line, as well as I 
 could, of Mr. Arrowsmith's two maps of the 
 world; of Vaugondy's chart, in three meets; of 
 that of Mannert, and of the laft map of Dr. 
 Reineke. CapcGuarda Fui> has been admitted 
 to lie in 12 45" north latitude. 
 
 In the interior of the northern part of Africa, I 
 had no choice. Major Rennel has reclined the 
 polition of almolt every place in his laft map, and 
 his determinations will remain, for a long time, the 
 ftandard of geographers. The juftnefs of this 
 conclufion, will be readily admitted, on comparing 
 the firft map of the northern part of Africa, which 
 the Major prefented in 1793, to the Society for 
 making Difcoveries in the Interior of Africa, with 
 the new map, which he conitru&cd for Mr. 
 Par k's Travels. That future travellers will throw 
 new light on many points, and that at prefent 
 the beft informed writers determine the fituation 
 of particular places very differently, for inftance, 
 that the ftate of Darfui\ fhould be placed five 
 degrees more fbutherly, by Major Rennel, than 
 by Mr. Browne, r.re circumitances rather occa- 
 4 fioned
 
 INTERIOR OF AFRICA. 5** 
 
 fioned by our little acquaintance with Africa, 
 than by any faults of this learned and able geo- 
 grapher. 
 
 It is, however, to be regretted, that the labours 
 of thofe who may follow him, will be rendered 
 more difficult by the circumitance, that the fte- 
 reographic projection, which he ufually employs 
 in his maps, is not always accurate. Of the 
 fouthern parts of Africa, J. R. Forster has given 
 a map, publifhed by Schneider and Weigel ; but 
 I cannot conceive, how it has happened, that the 
 Cape of Good Hope, as well as the principal 
 points in the whole map, are placed one degree 
 too far to the weftward, of courfe, all points in 
 that chart, fhould be rectified, and brought one 
 degree more to the eaftward. 
 
 Of the lower part of the eaftern coaii of Africa, 
 the kingdoms of Monomotapa, Sqfala, and a few 
 neighbouring countries, and on the weltern fide, 
 Loango, Congo, Angola, and Benguela, with two 
 other itates near them, are the only countries ac- 
 curately known. Thefe are laid down from Mr. 
 Arrowsmith's two maps, becaufe, in reality, 
 the one contains fometimes more, and fome- 
 times fewer places than the other; and from Bel- 
 li n. whofe deficiencies have been fupplied from 
 
 Vau gondii,
 
 544 TRAVELS, &C, 
 
 Vaugondy, Rcineke, Manner t, and a map by 
 Janvier, which appeared in 1753, confequently 
 three years after Danville 1 s chart. 
 
 I was obliged to be fatisfied with Janvier's 
 map, which follows Danville's very clofely, as I 
 could not procure the other. This great geogra- 
 pher, publilhed a mod valuable diflertation in the 
 26th volume of the Memoirs of the Academy of 
 Infcriptions, on the rivers of the interior of 
 Africa. 
 
 The few other maps, which I have made ufe 
 of, I do x not mention, for inftance, a map of 
 the Algerine dates, annexed to a defcriptio'n of 
 thofe countries, which was publifhed at Altona, 
 a few years ago; and although it is the beft, it 
 furnimed me with only a few points. 
 
 Leipzic, the 11th of 
 Oaober, 1800. 
 
 C. F. GOLDBACH. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 9* 
 
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