Culinary Handbook By Charles Fellows The Most Complete and Serviceable Reference Book to Things Culinary Ever Published Published by THE HOTEL MONTHLY PRESS JOHN WILLY, Inc. 950 Merchandise Mart Chicago 54, 111. PREFACE. This book has been prepared with the aim of gathering into a single volume the largest practi- cable collection of every day recipes suited to the catering fraternity iu the English language, mak- ing it as nearly as possible the choicest and most complete work of its kind. The name which is given it indicates the principle upon which the book has been made: namely, that it might serve as a book of reference; as a comprehensive exhibit of the growth, and condi- tion of the requirements of the traveling public. The work is not a cook book, and does not pretend to teach cookery, yet to those that have al- ready received the fundamental ideas of cookery, it will be found to be the best theoretical teache- obtainable, as it clearly shows what the combinations of the dishes are and what they look like, and how they should be served. Necessarily limited in extent, it yet contains more practical matter than any similar publica- tion, presenting over four thousand selections. It is believed that of the culinary writers for the catering profession acknowledged by the intelligent and cultivated to be great, none, whether Foreign cr American have heretofore written the dishes in plain English without the foreign affec- tation of "A LA", an affectation when appearing on the Bill of Fare causing the guest to expect much, and disappointing him by receiving little. The dusty road traveled so much by other writers in making their books contain five times as many pages as are necessary has been avoided, and we hope that one of the special merits of this volume is its brevity. With these brief explanations, The Culinary Handbook is placed before the catering fraternity, with the hope that it will be deemed worthy of its title. , THB AUTHOR. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. ABSINTHE A liqueur made principally fromALMONDS The best for culinary purposes is wormwood, anise, angelica, coriander seeds and the Jordan; it is about an inch long, flat with a In alcohol, sometimes adulterated with aromatic resins and dangerous colorings; its uses are chiefly as a drink diluted with water, and in making many of the American mixed drinks. ACETIC ACID The foundation of all vinegars; used by confectioners when making icing from whites of eggs, to facilitate the beating, clear brown skin, sweet and rather tough, making almond soup seven-eighths sweet and one-eighth bitter almonds should be used. SALTED ALMONDS Made by blanching, skin- ning, and frying them in butter oil till nicely browned, then dusting with salt; make a nice appetizer, or hors d'oeuvre. AERATED WATERS Such as Vichy, Apolli- DEVILLED ALMONDS Made like salted al- naris, Carlsbad water, Friedrichshall bitter, monds, but after salting, well dusted with etc., are obtained from the springs of nature cayenne pepper. and recommended for the relief and cure of ALUM A white astringent salt, often used to different complaints of the human system. Imi- whiten flour, to quickly clear gin, to improve tation aerated waters mostly contain sugar, and the color of inferior red wines, are sold as pop, such as ginger ale, sarsaparilla, ANCHOVIES The Dutch are always cleaned of etc. The artificial waters are simply pure their scales. The French are not, and are larger. Anchovy paste bought on the markets is often adulterated with red-ochre and Veni- The artificial waters are simply pure waters sweetened, flavored and charged with carbonic acid gas. In Paris oyster shells are washed, and broken into small pieces, and, tian red. under the action of vitriol, yield the carbonic ANCHOVY CANAPES Slices of fried bread, acid gas. one-quaiter inch thick, spread with anchovy ALBUMEN An opaque fluid found plentifully paste or butter, a filleted anchovy on top, the in eggs, meats, fish and succulent vegetables, especially asparagus. It is the most nourish- edges decorated with minced whites of hard boiled egg. ing substance known; used in its raw state from ANCHOVY AIGRETTES Filleted anchovies washed, then laid for three hours in a pickle of olive oil, vinegar and red pepper; taken up, drained, dipped in batter and fried a light color in very hot fat; served garnished with lobster coral and sprigs of parsley. It is largely used in making flavoring extracts, ANCHOVY TOAST Slices of toast spread with by diluting the oil of the flavor required with a mixture made of three-fifths essence of an- chovies, one-fifth grated Parmesan cheese, and one-fifth minced filleted anchovies and chopped parsley. whites of eggs by cooks chiefly in clarifying purposes. ALCOHOL A colorless liquid obtained from fermenting sugar; is found in all wines and spirits and is the intoxicating quality of them. the alcohol. Wood alcohol obtained at any drug store is the best and cleanest material to be used in singeing poultry and game. ALLIGATOR PEAR A fruit found in the West ANCHOVY ALUMETTES Preserved ancho- Indies and Mexico, but can be bought at most vies in oil, drained, rolled in very thin pie paste, of the fruit stores in season; the large green fried; served garnished with fried parsley, ones are the best; they are served the same as ANCHOVY FRITTERS Filleted anchovies coiled up, dipped in batter and fried a light canteloupes, or sliced into a salad seasoned with pepper, salt and the juice of a lime. ALLSPICE The product of the pimento shrub, color in hot fat; served garnished with fried parsley. used as a food flavoring. When ground it has ANCHOVY TARTINES Circles of brown bread a graining of a ruby coloring; purchased in its spread with anchovy paste, decorated with ground state, is often adulterated with mustard thinly sliced gherkins alternately with white of husks. hard boiled egg. 2037845 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. ANCHOVY BASKETS Hard boiled eggs, part of the white cut away to form an oval basket, yolks removed and pounded to a paste with an- chovy essence, seasoned with lemon juice and cayenne pepper, colored lightly with carmine or cochineal, baskets refilled; served garnished with watercress. ANCHOVY CROUTONS A paste of three-fifths anchovy essence, one-fifth grated cheese and one-fifth melted butter and lemon juice, the paste spread on fancy cut slices of fried bread; served with a coiled anchovy on top. ANCHOVY SANDWICH Thin slices of bread cut into shape of circles, spread with the pre- ceding mixture, and filleted anchovies laid between. ANCHOVIES WITH OLIVES Anchovy toast garnished with slices of stuffed olives. ANCHOVY CANAPES, BERNE Triangle shaped pieces of fried bread, spread with an- chovy paste or butter, the edges garnished with minced whites of hard boiled eggs, minced yolks, and minced green pickles, with a stuffed olive in the center. ANCHOVY BUTTER Two parts of butter to one part of anchovy essence, a little grated Parmesan cheese and nutmeg, thoroughly mixed together. ANCHOVY PASTE Anchovies filleted, the fil- lets rubbed through a fine sieve, the head and bones boiled with a little water and thickened with flour, strained into the paste obtained from the rubbing, mixed; when cooled, a little coch- ineal, walnut catsup, and vinegar added to give the required color and consistency. ANCHOVY SAUCE Anchovy paste or butter worked into a rich brown sauce, or some pounded filleted anchovies, or anchovy essence, lemon juice and cayenne pepper worked into a cream or butter sauce. ANCHOVY CREAM Anchovy paste worked into a butter sauce, and finished with whipped cream. ANCHOVY STUFFING- Used very often for stuffing olives and small game birds. One cupful of breadcrumbs squeezed out of milk, one tablespoonful of minced fried onions, four minced fillets of anchovies, one teaspoonful each of minced capers and chopped parsley, the whole mixed; if used for stuffing birds; add the birds liver minced. ANCHOVIES POTTED Anchovy fillets pound- ed and rubbed through a sieve, mixed with ground allspice and cayenne pepper to taste, placed into small jars, pressed down, and one- eighth of an inch of melted lard poured over the top, to seal the contents. ANCHOVY SALAD Shredded fillets of salted anchovies garnished with small white pickled onions, capers and hard boiled eggs; tarragon vinegar sprinkled over the anchovies. Also shredded lettuce and shredded anchovies, a few minced shallots, all mixed together dry, then sprinkled with equal parts of olive oil and caper vinegar beaten together. ANCHOVY CATSUP Anchovies, onions, whole cloves, mace, peppers and ginger, sugar and old ale, brought to a quick boil, then slowly sim- mered till done, strained through a hair sieve, cooled, walnut catsup added; bottled for use. ANCHOVY FRITTERS Thin flour pancakes spread with chicken forcemeat, cut in strips twice the size of anchovy fillet, which is laid on one-half of the strip, the other half folded over, then breaded and fried; served garnished with fried parsley. ANCHOVY OMELET Beaten eggs seasoned with salt, pepper and chopped parsley, made into an omelet, the center enclosing some cooked fillets of anchovies; served with equal oarts of tomato and espagnole sauces mixed togetner. ANGEL FOOD A light, white, kind of sponge cake. ANGELICA A green preserved stalk resembling rhubarb, used to decorate cakes, also in iced puddings, ice creams, etc. ANILINE A chemical product of petroleum; the red is the cheapest and best for culinary purposes, besides being perfectly harmless. ANISE An herb, from the seeds of which is ex- tracted the oil of anise; a liqueur called anis- ette is made from the oil; a small proportion of oil of anise mixed with alcohol, produces es- sence of aniseed, used in flavoring cakes and confectionery. ANTELOPE A species of deer; the young are best for culinary purposes, as the meat, besides being treated in all the same ways as venison, is light enough in color to allow of being larded, which cannot be done to venison. Red meats should never be larded, on account of their loss of blood and gravy in cooking. APPLES About twelve really good kinds are obtainable by the steward, for hotel purposes Pound sweets, King, Baldwins, Spitzenbergs, Northern spy, Rhode Island greenings, Golden pippins, Johnathans, Wine saps, Snow, Shia- wasse beauty, Roxbury russets, Wageners. There are others, but these are among the first rank. APPLE BAVAROISE Apple sauce, flavored with sherry wine and lemon juice, with enough gelatine added to set it, the whole passed through a hair sieve, whipped cream stirred in according to quantity liked, then poured into molds and allowed to set till firm; served with whipped cream. APPLE BUTTER Peeled apples boiled down in cider to a pulp with a flavor of allspice, the pulp then passed through a fine strainer. APPLES BAKED Good firm apples cored, the core hole filled with a mixture of butter and sugar flavored with nutmeg, then placed into a pan containing a little water, and baked till done. APPLE CAKE Apple sauce and an equal quan- THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 3 tity of batter of the consistency of cream, made served with a sauce. of flour, milk, eggs and sugar, mixed together APPLES, PORTUGESE STYLE Firm apples and baked slowly till done; when nearly done. cored, peeled and simmered in a thin syrup the top dusted with sugar, returned to oven to till barely done, taken out, drained, the core get a glazed appearance. hole filled with apricot jam, placed on a dish, APPLE CHEESECAKES Patty pans lined the syrup then reduced to a glaze, and poured with puff paste, filled with apple marmalade over them. containing a little grated lemon rind and enough APPLE MERINGUE Apple pulp in a dish, a yolks of eggs to set. layer of fruit marmalade spread on it, whipped APPLE CHARLOTTE The bottom and sides whites of egg and sugar, tastefully spread over of a pan or mold lined with thin slices of but- all, then placed in oven till of a light fawn tered bread, the interior filled with thick apple color. marmalade, the top covered with slices of but- APPLE TART A pie plate lined with puff paste tered bread half an inch thick dipped in a mix- ture of milk and eggs, the charlotte then baked a fine color, turned out and served with whip- ped cream. APPLE CHUTNEY A pint and a half of vine- gar, two ounces of whole ginger bruised, one ounce of chillies, one ounce of mustard seed, two ounces of salt, twelve ounces of sugar, boiled slowly for forty-five minutes, then strained through a hair sieve; when cooled the vinegar thus flavored put on again with a large onion minced, one and one-half ounces of minced shallots, two ounces of sultana raisins, APPLE PANCAKES- -Minced apples worked and two and one-half pounds of peeled and into an ordinary wheat pancake mixture, the pancakes baked in the usual way, and served with butter and sugar. APPLE SHORTCAKE Two layers of cooked shortpaste spread between with apple marma- lade, the top ornamented with whipped cream; served with sweetened and flavored cream, lade containing soft breadcrumbs and egg yolks APPLE COMPOTE Cored and pared apples baked till set. When cold, cut in strips two simmered in a boiling syrup till thoroughly inches long and one inch thick, breaded, fried, done, remaining whole. and served with orange sauce. APPLE ROLY POLY A biscuit dough con- taining a little sugar, rolled out thin, spread with minced apples, seasoned with grated lemon rind, cinnamon, or ground cloves according to taste, rolled up, the ends tucked in, tied in a cloth for boiling (in a mold for steaming) (in a pan for baking); served with a sauce, or with sweetened cream. APPLE FLOAT Cream sweetened and flavored APPLES FRIED Good firm apples, peeled, with nutmeg poured in a dish or pan; apple cored, cut in slices half an inch thick, then marmalade containing whipped whites of egg, poured in the centre; baked till set. with a raised fancy edge to it; filled two-thirds full with apple marmalade and baked; when done, filled up with a boiled custard, the in- terior edge piped round with meringue, also a fancy centre; returned to oven till of a fawn color. APPLE SOUP Minced cooking apples, grated breadcrumbs, and water each one part, a piece of lemon rind and a flavoring of cinnamon, boiled till thoroughly done, the whole then passed through a fine strainer, and enough white wine added to form a soup consistency. sliced apples, the whole boiled till apples are pulpy, then placed into stone jars and tied down with skin. APPLE CREAM Sweet apple sauce, containing a little butter and whipped whites of egg. APPLE CROQUETTES Thick apple marma- APPLE CUSTARD Apple marmalade mixed with beaten eggs and cream, poured into a pan or dish, and baked till set. APPLE DUMPLINGS Cored and peeled ap- ples enclosed in pie paste, baked, boiled or steamed till done, served with a sauce or with cream. dipped in milk, rolled in flour, and fried in very hot lard. APPLE FRITTERS Slices of cored apples, APPLE JOHNNY CAKE Slices of peeled and dipped in batter and fried till done; served with a syrup or wine sauce. APPLE PIE Thin slices of apples, sweetened and spiced, enclosed between an upper and cored apples in a buttered baking dish, sweet- ened and flavored, a pancake batter poured over them; baked till done and served with or without currant jelly. APPLE MARMALADE Sweetened apple sauce boiled down till thick enough to cling to a spoon, orange juice, thinned with water, sweetened to APPLE PUDDING Basins or molds lined with taste, poured into a freezer and froze. a suet crust, filled with slices of apples, sweet- ened and flavored to taste, top crust put on, the basin tied over with a cloth, or mold cover placed on and tied, boiled rapidly till done. lower crust of pie paste; baked till done. APPLE ICE Apple marmalade flavored with APPLE CUSTARD PIE A pie dish lined with puff paste, filled with apple marmalade mixed with cream and yolks of eggs; baked till set APPLE CUSTARD FRITTERS Apple mar- APPLE PUFFS Minced apples fried a little so malade mixed with custard, baked till set; as not to break, flavored with cinnamon and when cooled, cut in slices, breaded, fried and sugar, placed on squares of puff paste, the THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. edges brought to a top centre and pinched to- gether, brushed over with beaten egg and baked. APPLE COBBLER A pan one and a half inches deep lined with a pie paste, filled with apple marmalade, top crust put on, baked and glazed, served with sweetened and flavored cream, or with whipped cream. APPLE TIMBALE A timbale mold lined with strips of short paste, filled with apple marma- lade, covered with a crust, baked or steamed till paste is set, turned out, served with apricot sauce, and garnished with preserved cherries. APPLES GLAZED Cored and peeled apples of an even size simmered in lemon syrup till just done, taken out, placed on a dish, the syrup reduced till thick, then poured over the apples; when cooled, decorated with angelica and cherries. APPLE FLORENTINE Apples cored and sim- mered till half done, in syrup, taken out, drained, the core hole filled with sweetened rice, the outside coated with a vanilla flavored chestnut puree; made hot again in oven and served with a sprinkling of chopped pistachio nuts. APRICOTS ON TOAST Stewed apricots on sweetened toast, garnished with whipped cream (called apricots au crouton). APRICOTS AND RICE FRITTERS Half an apricot, the other half formed of rice croquette mixture, put together, breaded, fried and served with apricot sauce (called apricots a la Colbert). APRICOTS WITH RICE Stewed or canned apricots in syrup, bordered with sweetened rice, whipped cream over the apricots, sprink- led with chopped pistachio nuts (called apricots a la Conde"). APRICOT BAVAROISE Stiff apricot marma- lade with whipped cream containing a little gelatine mixed in, filled into molds, set till firm, turned out on a dish, and the edge piped around with whipped cream. APRICOT CHARLOTTE A pan or mold lined with lady fingers, strips of buttered bread or toast, filled with stewed apricots, covered with the same material as the lining, baked, turned out, and served with a fruit sauce APRICOT COBBLER (Sometimes called "Ap- ricots D'Artois.") Two sheets of puff paste baked, one spread with apricot marmalade, the other laid on top, then cut in squares, diamonds or with a fancy shaped cutter, the edge orna- mented with piped meringue, dried in the oven to a straw color, the centre of top decorated with jelly. APRICOT COMPOTE Apricots simmered in thick syrup till done, served with the syrup they were cooked in. APRICOT CHARTREUSE A centre jelly mold decorated at bottom with stiffened cream, sides coated with jell", halves of cooked apricots fan- cifully placed around the mold, these again coated with jelly, the mold then filled with jelly, set, turned out, and the centre filled with Bavarian cream. APRICOTS IN CASES Fresh apricots halved, stoned, simmered in raspberry syrup, served in rice cases with angelica sauce. APRICOT FRITTERS Halves of apricots or spoonfuls of apricot marmalade laid on a thin circle of paste, another circle placed on top, edges pinched together, trimmed, fried till done. Also halves of apricots laid in diluted brandy and sugar for half an hour, then dipped in batter, fried, dusted with sugar, and served with a syrup sauce. APRICOT PATTIES OR VOL-AU-VENTS Very light patty shells, nearly filled with apri- cot marmalade, finished by filling and decorat- ing with whipped cream. APRICOT MARMALADE OR JAM Raw ap- ricots stoned and rubbed through a sieve. To every nound of the pulp is added ten ounces of sugar with a few of the kernels blanched and skinned; boiled till thick enough to coat a spoon. APRICOT SHERBET Apricots boiled in syrup; when done rubbed through a fine sieve, the syrup and pulp then poured into a freezer and frozen; when nearly done, a flavoring of mar- aschino and some whipped whites of eggs are added, then frozen five minutes. APRICOT SAUCE Water, sugar, apricots, lemon juice and a little grated orange rind, boiled, thickened with corn starch, then rubbed through a fine strainer. APRICOT TARTLETTES Small tartlette molds lined with puff paste, filled with apricot marmalade, baked; when done, the edges dec- orated with crystalized cherries, and the center piped with whipped cream. APRICOT OMELET Beaten eggs with a flavor- ing of vanilla made into an omelet, the inside enclosing some apricot marmalade or compote, omelet then placed on dish, dusted with sugar, marked with a hot wire, or glazed under a sal- amander. ARTICHOKES Are of two kinds, the green or globe, and the Jerusalem. The globe is some- times used for salads, and served with a French dressing hot with pepper; also boiled plain and served with any of the sauces appropriate to cauliflower. The Jerusalem resembles a rough knobbly potato. ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS BRAISED Arti- choke bottoms filled with chicken forcemeat, braised, served on a croflton, with a rich brown or mushroom sauce poured around. ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH FORCE- MEAT Artichoke bottoms spread with a puree of onions and rice mixed together, filled up with forcemeat, sprinkled with grated cheese and breadcrumbs, arranged in a pan, moistened with consomme and browned in the oven THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 5 Served with cream onion sauce around (called water till tender, taken up and drained, then Artichokes a la Soubise.) put in scallop shells or dishes, covered with an- ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH FOIE GRAS chovy sauce, sprinkled with grated cheese and Artichoke bottoms spread with a mixture of bread-crumbs, then browned in the oven, foie-gras and minced truffles, covered with a ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS STUFFED Arti- reduced white mushroom sauce, grated bread choke bottoms filled with forcemeat, covered crumbs sprinkled over, then browned in the with supreme sauce, sprinkled with grated oven; served with a truffle sauce poured around, cheese and bread-crumbs, browned in the oven, (called, Fonds d'Artichauts a la Strasbourg.) and served with sauce Supreme (called Fonds ARTICHOKE FRITTERS Cooked artichoke d'Artichauts a la Supreme.) bottoms seasoned, breaded, or dipped in batter ARTICHOKE OMELET Thin strips of the and fried in very hot lard; or mashed Jerusa- tender part of the globe artichoke seasoned lem artichokes mixed with egg yolks, and sea" with salt and pepper, lightly fried in butter, soned with nutmeg, taken up by spoonfuls and drained, added to beaten eggs containing chop- fried, ped parsley, made into an omelet; served with ARTICHOKE CHIPS Jerusalem artichokes cream sauce poured around the omelet, peeled and cut into very thin slices with a Sara- ARTICHOKES WITH EGG Artichoke bot- toga chip cutter, placed in cold salted water for toms boiled, served on toast, garnished with an hour, taken up a few at a time, dried, then quartered hard boiled eggs, and miitre d'hotel fried in very hot fat, drained, sprinkled with butter poured over the artichokes, salt. ARTICHOKES BOILED Globe artichokes, ARTICHOKES AU GRATIN Same as arti- the tips of the leaves cut and the bottoms chokes scalloped. Artichoke bottoms cut in rounded, the stalk removed and the under slices and mixed with Bechamel sauce, may be leaves trimmed away; well washed and soaked used. in salted water for an hour, placed in boiling ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH RAGOUT salted water, and boiled rapidly till tender, Artichoke bottoms filled with a mixture of taken up, drained, the choke removed, served diced truffles, mushrooms, tongue and breast with melted butter, or sauces appropriate to of chicken, all mixed with Allemande sauce, a cauliflower. thin layer of chicken forcemeat placed on top, ARTICHOKES, FAMILY STYLE Jerusalem sprinkled with grated bread-crumbs and cheese, artichokes peeled and trimmed to the shape of then browned, (called, Fonds d'Artichauts a la pears with a flat bottom, boiled in salted water Montglas.) till tender; a dish of mashed potatoes, arti- G7.OBE ARTICHOKES, COLBERT SAUCE chokes placed around it point upwards, and a Globe artichokes trimmed and the choke re- boiled Brussels sprout placed between each moved, parboiled in salted water, drained- artichoke. cooled, then arranged in a sauce pan with a ARTICHOKE SOUP Globe artichokes par- little butter, white wine and consomme; sim- boiled in salted water, the choke, edible part mered till done and glazy; served with Colbert and leaves rubbed through a sieve, the pure sauce poured around (called, Artichokes a la thus obtained one part; cream of chicken soup, Lyonnaise). one part; onion cream sauce one part, all in- GLOBE ARTICHOKES STUFFED Globe ar- corporated. and boiling milk added to obtain tichokes trimmed and the choke removed, the * h e desired consistency of thin cream, bottoms fried quickly in olive oil for three min- ARTICHOKE AND ONION SALAD Arti- utes, turned over and the leaves fried a minute, choke bottoms and onions both cooked and taken up and drained, the interior filled with a sliced, dished alternately, garnished with cooked savory stuffing of meat, herbs and bread-crumbs; beets and carrots cut with a fancy cutter; served arranged in a sautoir, then covered with thin either with French dressing or salad cream. slices of bacon, equal parts of white wine and ARTICHOKE AND TOMATO SALAD Cooked consomme, simmered till tender, taken up, artichoke bottoms and raw sliced peeled toma- drained, the braise reduced to a glaze, skimmed toes, same size as the bottoms, arranged alter- and added to an Italian sauce; served with the nately on dish, sprinkled with French dressing sauce poured around (called, Artichokes a la containing chopped chervil. Barigoule). ASPARAGUS Is of two kinds, the red and ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH ONIONS green; the red is large, thick and full; the green Artichoke bottoms filled with a mixture of fried is smaller, with a whitish stalk and green head, onions, bread-crumbs, and Parmesan cheese, of delicate flavor. sprinkled with lemon juice, then browned in ASPARAGUS STEWED Asparagus heads, also the oven; served with a brown sauce poured the tender part of the stalks cut into inch around (called, Fonds d'Artichauts a 1'Italienne). lengths, blanched, drained, then simmered till SCALLOPED ARTICHOKES Jerusalem arti- tender in a butter sauce, finished by adding a chokes cut to shape of oysters, boiled in salted liason of egg yolks and cream. 6 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. ASPARAGUS, SAUCE HOLLANDAISE As- juice, the asparagus covered with the cheese paragus heads with all the tender part of the and butter, browned in the oven and served, stalk attached, boiled in boiling water contain- ASPIC The name given to a clear savory jelly ing a small piece of common washing soda and made from meat, and is used to decorate en- salt till done, a piece of toast placed on a dish, trees, pies, hams, tongues, game, pigs' heads, the asparagus stalks resting on the toast with salads, prawns, vegetables, fish, etc. the heads in the dish, Hollandaise sauce poured ASPIC JELLY Plenty of veal knuckles, calf's over the heads. feet boned and blanched, and a fowl or two are ASPARAGUS Cooked like the preceding may covered with clear water, fetched slowly to a also be served with plain melted butter, cream, boil, skimmed, a little cold water then added, veloute", mousseline or bechamel sauce; also, again brought to the boil and skimmed, carrots, after cooking, allowed to become cold, and onions, celery, parsley, a little garlic, bay served without toast, but with either tartare, leaves, thyme, mace and whole peppers are vinaigrette or mayonnaise sauce. then added and simmered slowly for six hours, ASPARAGUS OMELET Asparagus tips fat taken off, then strained through a consomme blanched and drained, then fried lightly in towel, allowed to become quite cold and all fat butter, surplus butter poured off and a little removed, then placed over a quick fire, brought cream sauce added; omelet mixture containing to the boil, skimmed, removed to cool off a chopped parsley formed, enclosing a spoonful little; while cooling, gelatine at the rate of two of the asparagus, placed on a dish and a spoon- ounces to the gallon is added; some lean veal ful of asparagus placed at each end. is now chopped fine and mixed with some whip- ASPARAGUS POINTS WITH QUENELLES ped whites of eggs and egg shells, also a bottle Asparagus points and about two inches of of white wine, this mixture poured into the the stalk boiled, drained, laid on toast, bord- cooling stock and allowed to come to a slow ered with small quenelles of chicken, and Hoi- boil; when just at boiling point a little ice water landaise sauce poured over the tips. containing lemon juice is put in, and as soon ASPARAGUS SOUP Asparagus heads blanched as coagulation takes place it is drawn to one drained and lightly fried with minced shallots side and allowed to simmer slowly for an hour in butter, then laid aside, the stalks boiled in longer, then strained through a jelly bag and veal or chicken broth till tender, a little white set awa y for use - roux added, then rubbed through a sieve and ATELETTE Is a skewer generally made of mixed with equal parts of veloute and cream silver or plated metal, and is used to decorate sauce, brought to a simmer, the heads now not and co ^ pieces for banquet tables; combi- added and served. nations on the skewer according to the dish ASPARAGUS PUREE Asparagus points and and the * an cy of the cook can be made of cocks- the tender part of the stalks blanched and combs, button mushrooms, crayfish, prawns, drained, lightly fried in butter with some animelles (lamb-fries) carrots, turnips, green minced shallots, green onions, parsley and a peas, parsley, truffles, sweetbreads, crystallized little sugar, turned into chicken broth, brought fruits, preserved violets, cherries, strawberries, to a boil, thickened with white roux, the whole sweet jelly, aspic jelly, etc., etc. rubbed through a sieve, spinach juice added to ATTEREAUX Is a skewer generally used for help give a greenish color, seasoned and cooking dishes en brochette (see brochette). served. BABA A light yeast raised cake containing ASPARAGUS SALAD Two inch lengths with fruit and almonds, generally served as dessert the head of cold boiled asparagus served on a with a rum sauce. leaf of lettuce with a cream salad dressing. BAKING POWDER Is better made than ASPARAGUS AND SALMON SALAD A bought; the following receipt is cheap tnd spoonful of ice cold salmon en mayonnaise gar- effective: five pounds of tartaric acid, eight nished with asparagus tips in French dressing. pounds of bi-carbonate of soda, sixteen pounds ASPARAGUS AND CAULIFLOWER SALAD of potato flour, mixed and rubbed through a Cooked cauliflower in flowerets garnished ^ ne sieve. By the addition of a quarter of an with asparagus tips, served sprinkled with ounce of turmeric to eight pounds of baking chopped capers and cream salad dressing. powder you produce EGG POWDER,' which ASPARAGUS PATTIES Cooked asparagus saves e gg s and g ives richness of color. heads and mushrooms in equal parts mixed BANANA Semi-tropical fruit that grow in bun- with veloute" sauce, patty shells filled with the che s sometimes six feet in length and contain- mixture, tops placed on; served with a sauce in S f ur to ^ ve hundred bananas, that, when mousseline poured around the base. r 'P e . change either to a bright yellow or purple ASPARAGUS WITH CHEESE Cooked aspar- red color. The yellow are esteemed for their agus heads seasoned with salt and pepper, flavor, while the red are best for cooking, as placed in a vegetable dish, equal parts of butter they are more firm. The merchants in selling and grated parmesan cheese pounded together the fruit, fix the price according to the number with a seasoning of cayenne pepper and lemon of HANDS the bunch contains. A hand is a THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. section on the stalk and contains, according to the size of the fruit, from ten to twenty bananas. Bananas may be bought in a green state much cheaper than when ripe. When bought green, the way of ripening is to hang the bunches up in a dark room, and subject them to a steady heat of seventy-five degrees. BANANA FRITTERS Bananas cut slantwise in halves, laid for a while in diluted brandy and sugar, then dipped in batter and fried in plenty of hot fat, taken up, drained, rolled in powdered sugar, and serve with a fruit sauce. BANANAS BAKED Bananas split in halves lengthwise, laid in a buttered pan, dusted with powdered sugar, browned quickly in the oven; served with a cocoanut syrup sauce. BANANAS FRIED Bananas split in halves lengthwise, dipped in milk, then rolled in flour, fried in clear butter to a golden brown; served with currant jelly. BANANA COMPOTE Bananas cut in quarters slantwise, simmered in syrup till done; served on a bed of sweetened rice, with the syrup poured over them. BANANA ICE CREAM Bananas peeled and rubbed through a fine sieve; added to the cream to be frozen at the rate of one pound of pulp to the gallon. BANANA SALAD Alternate slices of bananas, peeled oranges, and dessicated cocoanut are placed in a fruit dish till full, over which is poured enough brandy and rum mixed with sugar to just moisten the salad. BACON Is known as salted and dried. The salted is generally used as boiling bacon, and the dried, which is subsequently smoked, is generally used for frying and broiling. In select- ing bacon discard any with yellow fat. Good bacon is red in the lean and the fat is white and firm. * * * Bacon fat is better than butter for many things that have to be fried, s.uch as liver, veal chops, onions for curry, etc., is also used instead of olive oil with potato salad, lettuce salad, combination salad, etc. * * * Bacon is appropriate boiled with cabbage, kraut and string, wax and haricot beans; it is an improve- ment to an omelet, and is the proper thing to eat with liver, eggs and fowls. BAIN-MARIE A foreign culinary term for a hot water bath in which are kept the pots or saucepans containing sauces, garnitures, en- trees, soups, etc., that require to be kept hot without reaching the boiling point. BALLOTINE Is the name given to a chaud- froid of poultry, game, foie-gras, spring lamb, etc., is made by mincing the flesh and forming it into forcemeat, then stuffing small boned birds such as larks, quails, snipe, woodcock, squabs, etc., cooking them and serving them cold. Sometimes the forcemeat is stuffed into the skin of a turkey leg, sewn up, cooked, shaped like a ham; when cold, one end is masked with a brown sauce, the other with a white sauce, imitating a ham skin; they are then ornamented with aspic jelly, atelettes, etc. BARAQUILLE Is the foreign culinary term for a patty or vol-au-vent filled with a mince of veal, chicken, partridge, truffles, small game, fresh mushrooms, sweetbreads, etc. BARBECUE Means an animal roasted whole; although in recent years the word has been applied to gatherings at places where an animal roasted whole and served to the guests is the principal feature of the party. BARON OF BEEF One of the olden-time dishes of Great Britain's banquet tables, the term applied to two short loins of beef left whole, resembling a saddle of mutton. BASIL The name of a favorite herb used in seasoning turtle soup. Cloves resemble it in taste and flavor, and since the herb is as a rule hard to procure, even in the large cities, the clove does duty for it in a very creditable manner. BAGRATION The name applied through a for- eign medium to a few dishes, principally soups that are composed of a medley of fish and vege- tables. BARLEY A grain used by brewers in malting; generally found on the market in two sizes or qualities known as Scotch and Pearl. The Scotch is larger and has the inner husk left on; the Pearl is smaller and completely freed from husk, which makes it better adapted for culi- nary use; chiefly used in soups and gruels. BASS A well known species of fish, especially adapted for culinary purposes on account of its shape and size as well as its firm meat and deli- cate flavor. There are four or five principal kinds chiefly used, the Black, Striped, Sea, Silver, and Spotted, of which the Black stands first. BASS BROILED The fish is chosen of as near a pound in weight as possible, if for club or restaurant use: scaled, trimmed, seasoned, scored slantwise, rolled in flour, brushed with melted butter or olive oil, broiled; served with a slice of broiled bacon, a spoonful of melted butter, slice of lemon, and a garnish of parsley. If used as a course of a dinner, before broiling it is filleted into portion pieces. BASS FRIED- -Prepared as the preceding, ex- cept it is not scored; fried a golden brown, and served as if broiled, or with tomato, anchovy or Genevoise sauces. BASS BOILED Scaled, trimmed, cut into por- tion pieces, placed into boiling water contain- ing slices of carrot and onion, bay leaves, whole peppers, salt and a dash of vinegar; served with either butter, cream, parsley, shrimp, an- chovy, oyster or hollandaise sauces; sometimes served with green peas. BASS BAKED Scaled, trimmed, (left whole for restaurant and cut in portions if for hotel use), placed in pan, seasoned with wine, broth, oil, salt, pepper and minced shallots, sheet of oiled THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. ^aper put over, baked; when nearly done equal quantities of parsley and espagnole sauces added to the pan; the fish served with the sauce, (called, Bass a la Conde"). BASS BRAISED Prepared as the preceding, placed in pan or sautoir containing slices of carrot, onion, celery and parsley, with enough Bordelaise sauce to moisten the fish, braised slowly till done; served with the sauce and garnished with shrimps, (called, Bass a la Bor- delaise). BASS BRAISED The fish cut into fillets, lard- ed, braised in equal parts of tomato and bech- amel sauces; when cooked, the sauce poured into saucepan, and added to it some pure of mushrooms, lobster roe, sliced truffles and sauterne wine; the fish served with the sauce, and garnished with fish quenelles, (called, bass a la Chambord). BASS SAUTE The fish prepared as for frying, rolled in flour, and fried plain; a little gravy made in the pan the fish was fried in with flour and fish broth, and served with the fish, gar- nished with fancy potatoes, (called bass a la Meunie"re). BASS CROQUETTES Cold cooked bass with the skin and bones removed, then picked and put in a thick fish cream sauce, seasoned with anchovy essence, salt, pepper and grated nut- meg, allowed to become cold, shaped into cro- quettes, breaded, fried, and served with either tomato, bordelaise, genoise or anchovy sauces, garnished with parsley and sliced lemon. BATTER A consistency of flour and liquids used to dip foods in before frying; also a pan- cake and pudding mixture. The following fritter batter is used for frying any foods of a plain nature: a pound of flour is gradually moistened with a half pint each of milk and water, added to which is the whipped whites of four eggs and half a cup of melted butter. BATTER for frying sweet foods and fruits is made of a pound of flour, a heaping teaspoonful of baking powder and half cup of sugar mixed together dry, then moistened with a cup and a half of milk and two beaten eggs. BATTER for frying vegetables is made of a pound of flour seasoned with salt, moistened with a pint of milk, one beaten egg, and a spoonful of olive oil. BATTER for French pancakes is made of a pound of flour very gradually moistened with a quart of milk and sixteen beaten eggs, the grated rind and juice of one lemon and a seas- oning of salt. This batter is fried in small HOT frying pans, very thin, tossed over, spread with preserves, rolled up and sprinkled with powdered sugar. They are also called JENNY LIND PANCAKES. BATTER for Swiss pancakes is made of six oun- ces of flour gradually moistened with six beaten eggs and a quart of milk with a seasoning of salt; they are fried like the preceding, but prior to tossing them over they are strewn with steamed currants. Served currant side up with powdered sugar, not rolled. BATTER for Yorkshire pudding is made of three quarters of a pound of flour gradually moistened with three pints of milk, nine beaten eggs, and half a cup of melted butter; one teaspoonful of salt and two of baking powder is beaten in just before putting into oven. BATTER for wheat griddle cakes is made of a pound of flour, one ounce of baking powder, two beaten eggs, three cups of milk, a little melted butter, sugar and salt. BATTER for corn griddle cakes is made of half a pound each of wheat flour and corn meal mixed dry with a little salt and one ounce of baking powder, then moistened with a pint each of milk and water, two beaten eggs, a little syrup and two table-spoonfuls of melted butter. BATTER for flannel griddle cakes is made of a pound of flour, a quart of water and a small cake of yeast, this is set to rise; when risen, two eggs, two ounces of melted lard, a little salt and syrup are beaten in. allowed to rise again before baking. BATTER for graham griddle cakes is made the same as for corn, except using graham flour for the corn meal. BATTER for rice griddle cakes is made of a pint each of sifted flour and dry boiled rice mixed together with a little salt, one teaspoonful of baking powder, moistened with half a pint of milk, three eggs and a little syrup. BATTER for buckwheat cakes is made of self- raising buckwheat flour prepared according to the directions given on the package; or one pound of buckwheat flour moistened with a pint and a half of warm water with enough yeast added to raise it; when risen, a little salt, syrup and melted lard or butter is beaten into it, and sometimes a little corn meal is appreciated. BAY LEAVES The leaf of the laurel tree dried and used in seasoning soups, sauces, etc.; they resemble in taste and flavor, bitter almonds. BEANS One of the most nutritious foods that can be used; the varieties most used are the lima or butter bean, the white haricot or navy bean, the red and the black haricot, the flag- eolet or kidney bean. LIMA BEANS BOILED The dried beans are soaked in water for a few hours, then boiled till tender, drained, seasoned with salt, pepper and butter, or mixed with cream sauce If canned beans are used they are first washed from their can liquor, then heated and seasoned as above; if fresh beans are used, they are put to boil in boiling water containing salt and a small piece of common washing soda; when done, drained, and seasoned as above. LIMA BEANS SAUTE The beans either dried, fresh or canned are prepared up to the season- ing point of the preceding receipt, then placed in pan containing either small pieces of cooked THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. bacon or salt pork, or just plain melted butter, then thoroughly tossed and heated in the pan, seasoned; sometimes they are sprinkled with finely chopped parsley before serving. LIMA BEANS SALAD Either dried, fresh or canned beans boiled till tender; when cold they are mixed with a cream, hollandaise or mayon- naise salad dressing and served on a bed of lettuce. LIMA BEANS PUREE Soaked dried beans put to boil with a piece of salt pork in white stock containing onions, carrots, parsley, and whole mace; when cooked the pork and vege- tables removed, the beans and stock rubbed through a fine sieve, then placed in a clean saucepan, brought to the boil, seasoned, a little flour and water thickening added to prevent coagulation; served with small toast. LIMA BEANS, cream of Equal parts of the finished puree of the preceding, and cream or veloute' sauce, made hot separate, then thor- oughly mixed without further boiling. FLAGEOLETS or kidney beans are obtainable in cans or in the dried state. The average patron does not know what a flageolet is, hence the call for them at table is small; but most people know what a kidney bean is, and if put on the bill of fare as such, the demand will be gratifying to the cook. KIDNEY BEANS IN CREAM Poulette, espag- nole or veloute" sauces. The beans if canned, washed from the can liquor; if dried they are soaked, then boiled tender, drained and re- heated in any of the four sauces above men- tioned. KIDNEY BEANS, GERMAN STYLE Soaked, boiled and drained dried beans, or canned ones washed off, then heated and tossed in butter, seasoned with salt and pepper with a little summer savoury; a few salted herrings skinned boned and cut into small pieces, either mixed with the beans, or served as a garnish to them. KIDNEY BEANS, FRENCH STYLE Soaked, boiled and drained dried beans, or canned ones washed off, a little minced onion and garlic lightly fried in olive oil to a golden brown color, oil poured off, beans put in with some chopped parsley, tossed together with the onions, then moistened with veloute sauce, brought to the boil, seasoned and served. KIDN-EY BEANS, ENGLISH STYLE The cooked beans, seasoned with salt, pepper and butter, sprinkled with chopped parsley and served. KIDNEY BEANS, PANACHES The word panaches means mixed. Cold cooked kidney beans mixed with equal parts of cold cooked navy or lima beans, are heated with a little butter, and seasoned with salt, pepper, chopped parsley and served. Another mixture is made of equal parts of cold cooked string beans (green ) and wax beans (yellow). HARICOT BEANS, BOSTON STYLE More often placed on the bill of fare as "baked pork and beans." The beans are washed and soaked over night; into the bean jar is put some black nolasses, salt, pepper and dry mustard, these are well mixed, cold water is then added to thin the mixture; the soaked beans now placed into the jar filling it two-thirds full, a piece of scored, or slices of salt pork is placed on top of the beans, jar filled with water, lid placed on, and put in a slow oven and baked till done; should be served with steamed brown bread. The more common way, however, that pork and beans are cooked, is to soak them over night, place them on to boil in the morning, when at boiling point they are skimmed, and the salt pork put to boil with them, when done the pork removed and cut in slices, the beans put into pans, seasoned, sometimes colored with caramel, the slices of pork arranged on top of the beans, sprinkled with sugar and placed in the oven till browned. HARICOT BEANS WITH BACON The cold beans are nicely fried with butter or bacon fat, seasoned with salt and pepper with a little sage, then served with a slice of broiled bacon. HARICOT BEANS PUREE Soaked beans put to boil with salt pork in white stock containing carrots, onions, celery or celery seed or salt, parsley and whole mace; when done the pork and vegetables removed, the beans and stock rubbed through a fine sieve, then placed in a clean saucepan, seasoned, a little flour and water thickening added to prevent coagulation, served with small toast. HARICOT SOUP, FAMILY STYLE Prepared same as the preceding, but instead of the beans being rubbed through a sieve, they are left whole in the soup, and the vegetables and pork cut up very small, returned to the soup and served with it, along with small toast. BEAN PUREE WITH ONIONS Is the pure"e above but considerable onions boiled in the stock, and rubbed through the sieve with the beans, (called, puree of beans, a la Soubise). HARICOT BEANS, CREAM SAUCE Cold boiled haricot beans with a flavoring of salt pork, mixed into a white cream onion sauce, seasoned with nutmeg, made hot, but not re- boiled. RED HARICOT BEANS Are mostly used as a garniture to salt leg of boiled pork. They are soaked, boiled with the pork, drained, placed in a saucepan, white wine added, then reduced to a glaze with a ladle of consomme; served with the pork in conjunction with small glazed onions. BLACK BEANS WITH RISSOTO The beans soaked and boiled with bacon; when done, the bacon cut up small and mixed w ; 'h the drained beans, then moistened with Spanish sauce, seasoned with anchovy butter, made hot again and served garnished with rissoto. GREEN AND WAX BEANS Are best suited 10 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. for culinary use when served as a plain vege- table boiled in salted water with the cover of the saucepan OFF. The beans have the strings removed, then shred or cut across; when boiled, drained, moistened with a little consomme, and seasoned with salt, pepper and butter, (time of boiling 15 to 35 minutes according to age). BEEF For culinary purposes is of two kinds, the steer and the cow. Steer beef is superior and the flesh should be of a bright red marble with yellow fat, and a thick outside layer of fat under a fine grained skin; the lean should be firm and elastic when pressed with the fing- ers; the suet should be dry and crumble easily. Cow beef is of closer grain, the fat is white in- stead of yellow, and the flesh of a darker red, BULL beef is sometimes worked off on the unwary by the packing houses when shipping to distant cities, especially so in the form of tenderloins; it is large, coarse, very dark in color, and unfit for table use. BEEF a la MODE Any piece of solid beef, preferably the silverside of the round, is larded with seasoned strips of larding pork, then laid in dilute vinegar containing slices of carrot, turnips and onions with whole spices, for sev- eral hours. It is then taken out and quickly roasted in oven to get the outside seared, then placed in saucepan, covered with a piquante sauce, lid of saucepan put on, then gently sim- mered till tender; served in slices with a gar- nish of braised vegetables and some of the sauce it was cooked in, (also called, "pot roast" and "sour pot roast.") BEEF STEW, GERMAN STYLE Cold beef a la mode is cut into small pieces and heated in a sour sauce; served garnished with potato pancakes. BEEF ROAST Preferably the set. or seven ribs from the shoulder to the loin is for hotel use. The lower end of the ribs, called SHORTRIBS, should be roasted with another pan over the top, so as to become more juicy and tender than by roasting them open. The usual accom- paniment to roast beef is some of the pan or dish gravy with a slice of Yorkshire pudding, while for the shortribs a little grated horse- radish and browned potatoes is best. BOILED BEEF The best pieces for boiling are the flank, brisket, and short ribs, they should be boiled tender with a flavoring of veg- etables, and served with horseradish sauce, cream sauce and carrots or suet dumplings, or mixed vegetables such as carrot, turnip, onion, cabbage and potato. CORNED BEEF Flank, short ribs, brisket or rump of beef is put to soak in brine made of twenty-five pounds of salt, twelve ounces of rock saltpetre, two pounds of sugar and fifteen gallons of water, all boiled together, skimmed, cooled, the beef then put in with a cover on and a weight on that to keep the beef under the brine, (ready for use in a week to ten days). BOILED CORNED BEEF The meat put to boil in cold water, scum taken off as it rises, then allowed to simmer till tender (about four hours) served in slices with cabbage, parsnips, carrots, sometimes with all three vegetables; also with suet dumplings; sometimes with a brown sauce and garnished with brussels sprouts. SPICED BEEF A whole flank of beef with bones, gristle and inner skin removed, laid out flat, outside skin downwards, then rubbed with a mixture of salt, ground pepper, mace, allspice, cloves and ginger; rolled up and tied, then put to soak for ten days with some pickle from the corned beef brine to which is added whole cloves, peppers, allspice and bay leaves. When to be cooked, it is taken from the pickle, wiped dry, dipped in fat that is near cool so as to take on a good coating, then rolled in a dough made of plain flour and water, placed in a medium oven and slowly baked (five to six hours). If to be served hot, cut in slices and serve with piquante sauce and garnish with small cut vege- tables. If to be served cold, as is generally done, the dough is left on till thoroughly cold, or till to be served; even for a month it will not spoil if the dough is not disturbed. Served cold in thin slices garnished with pickles. ALL SALT, CORNED OR SMOKED MEATS IF SIMMERED TILL DONE, INSTEAD OF QUICK BOILING, and allowed to cool in the water they were simmered in, will be found always more juicy and tender, and capable of longer keeping. DRIED BEEF The thick flank is the part gen- erally used; divided lengthwise in its natural section, it is put in a pickle of salt, saltpetre, sugar and molasses for two weeks, then hung up and smoked like hams, (also called smoked beef). CHIPPED BEEF IN CREAM Very thin slices or shavings of dried beef, blanched, drained, and mixed into cream sauce or reduced cream. SCRAMBLED BEEF WITH EGGS Very thin slices of dried beef, again cut into strips like short matches, blanched, drained, mixed with beaten eggs and a little milk, scrambled around in a pan with a little butter till eggs are set, served either plain, or on toast. FRIZZLED BEEF ON TOAST Very thin sli- ces of dried beef, blanched, drained, then tossed with frothing butter over a quick fire; served on toast. SMOKED BEEF WITH SPINACH Dried beef put to boil in cold water, scum taken off as it rises, then simmered till tender; served in slices on a bed of spinach. SMOKED BEEF SANDWICHES Very thin slices of dried beef placed on thin slices of but- tered brown bread, rolled up like fingers. BRISKET OF BEEF WITH VEGETABLES Lean brisket of beef boned, placed in sauce- pan with carrot, onions, turnip, celery, parsley, THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. II thyme, bay leaves, whole cloves and mace, covered with stock, saucepan cover put on, simmered till tender, taken up and placed on baking pan, little gravy poured over, put in quick oven till gravy has glazed the meat; served in slices with glazed vegetables and brown sauce. FLANK OF BEEF, ENGLISH STYLE Lean flank of beef that has been in corned beef brine for a few days, is washed, then put to boil in cold water with carrots, onions, and celery; after coming to the boil, skimmed, then sim- mered till tender, taken up and glazed in oven like the preceding, served in slices with a suet dumpling, brussels sprouts, shaped piece of carrot and turnip, a boiled onion, and some piquante sauce poured around. GLAZED RIBS OF BEEF WITH MACAR- ONI Lean short ribs of beef larded through the lean with seasoned strips of larding pork; put in sauce pan with carrot, onion, celery, parsley, whole cloves and mace with a little garlic, covered with consomme and sherry wine, cover put on, then simmered till tender, meat then taken up, the liquor strained, skimmed, and reduced, half of which is taken to moisten some boiled and drained macaroni, mixed with grated Parmesan cheese. The beef served in portions, garnished with the macaroni, and a spoonful of the remaining glaze poured over the meat, (called, BRAISED BEEF a la PIEMONTAISE). GLAZED RIBS OF BEEF WITH VEGE- TABLES The lean short ribs of beef cooked same as in the preceding receipt, served in por- tion pieces, garnished with glazed shapes of carrot, turnip, onions and artichokes, with a little of the glaze poured over the meat, (called, BRAISED BEEF a la BOURGEOISE). GLAZED RIBS OF BEEF WITH POTATO CROQUETTES Lean short ribs of beef larded through the lean with strips of seasoned larding pork; put in a sauce pan with a few shallots, half a cup of fresh grated horseradish, parsley and green onions, the meat barely cov- ered with consomme to which is added a bottle of Rhine wine, then simmered till tender and glazy; when done, meat taken up, the liquor strained and skimmed, little red currant jelly and grated orange rind added to it and reduced; the meat served in portion cuts, with a little of the glaze poured over, and garnished with po- tato croquette mixture rolled into small balls, dipped in beaten eggs, then in flour and fried very quickly in hot fat (called, BRAISED BEEF a la BADEN-BADEN). BRAISED BEEF, GERMAN STYLE A top sirloin of beef larded slantwise with strips of seasoned larding pork, put in sauce pan with carrot, onions, celery, parsley, bay leaves and a few caraway seeds, barely covered with stock and simmered till tender and glazy, then taken up, the liquor strained, skimmed and reduced to glaze, the meat served in slices with a little of the glaze and garnished with sauerkraut and small shaped potatoes boiled and sprinkled with parsley butter (called, BRAISED BEEF a 1'ALLEMANDE.) BRAISED SIRLOIN OF BEEF, GARNISHED The braised sirloin of the preceding, but the caraway seeds omitted in the seasonings; when done is served in slices and garnished with stoned olives, mushrooms, truffles, cockscombs and kernels, green peas and small pieces of sweetbreads, all made hot in the glaze with the addition of a little Espagnole sauce (called, BRAISED BEEF a la FINANCIERS). BRAISED BEEF WITH RAVIOLIS Top sir- loin of beef larded, put in sauce pan with car- rot, onions, celery, thyme, bay leaves, cloves, allspice, garlic, claret wine and enough con- somme to barely cover the meat, simmered till tender and glazy, taken up, liquor strained, skimmed and reduced to a glaze; meat served in slices with some of the glaze and garnished with small molds of boiled macaroni sprinkled with Parmersan cheese and small raviolis, (called, BRAISED BEEF a la MILANAISE). BRAISED SIRLOIN OF BEEF WITH QUE- NELLES Top sirloin larded and braised with vegetables, spices and consomme; served in slices and garnished with a ragout of small quenelles of poultry or game, cockscombs and kernels, and slices of braised poultry livers (called, BRAISED BEEF a la RICHELIEU). BRAISED SIRLOIN OF BEEF WITH MUSH- ROOMS Top sirloin larded and braised with vegetables, spices and consomme; meat taken up when done, the liquor strained and skimmed, sherry wine and Espagnole sauce added to it; meat served in slices, garnished with fried mushrooms, and sauce poured around. BRAISED SIRLOIN OF BEEF WITH TRUF- FLES Top sirloin larded and braised, meat taken up when done, the liquor strained, skim- med, Madeira wine added to it and reduced; meat served in slices, garnished with a ragout of truffles, diced sweetbreads, and small veal quenelles (called, BRAISED BEEF a la GOD- ARD). BRAISED SIRLOIN WITH RICE CRO- QUETTES Top sirloin larded and braised, meat taken up, liquor strained and reduced to a glaze, meat served in slices with some of the glaze poured around, and garnished with small croquettes of rice that have been seasoned with savory herbs and meat glaze, (called, BRAISED BEEF a TORSINI). BRAISED SIRLOIN WITH SPRING VEGE- TABLES Top sirloin larded and braised, taken up when done, liquor strained, skimmed and reduced to a glaze; meat served in slices with it, and garnished with glazed carrot, onion, brussels sprouts and red or green cabbage, (called, BRAISED BEEF a la FLAMANDE) 12 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. BRAISED SIRLOIN WITH STUFFED PO- [It is optional with the cook whether he adds TATOES Top sirloin larded and braised, asparagus points and small flowerets of cauliflower taken up when done, liquor strained, skimmed, to the above groups of vegetables, it is still a and reduced to a glaze; meat served in slices simple garniture of vegetables, appropriate to with it, and garnished with potatoes that have either braised or roasted tenderloin, understood been cut out with the largest size potato scoop, by the guest when written in plain English, and centre taken out of the potatoes with a column often uncalled for and consequently left over cutter, blanched, drained, 'he holes filled with when the "a la" is attached. Any of the fore- a savory forcemeat, then baked till done and going garnitures given to braised sirloins, apply brown with butter, (called, BRAISED BEEF equally to braised tenderloins of beef and need a la BIGNONNE). not be repeated under the heading of tenderloin; BRAISED SIRLOIN WITH HORSERADISH also the vegetable garnitures above given are Top sirloin larded and braised, taken up equally appropriate to braised sirloins of beef.] when done, the liquor strained, skimmed and TENDERLOIN OF BEEF, SAUCE BEAR- added to it is Espagnole sauce, red currant NAISE Tenderloin trimmed and larded is jelly, horseradish, grated lean ham, port wine either braised or roasted with vegetables; served and Harvey sauce; it is then rapidly boiled in slices with Bearnaise sauce, down to glaze; meat served in slices with some TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH CUSTARDS of the sauce, and garnished with steamed arti- Tenderloin larded and either braised or choke bottoms, filled with grated fresh horse- roasted with vegetables, served in slices with a radish, (called, BRAISED BEEF a la NAPOL- half glaze containing Madeira or Malaga wine. ITAINE). Garnished with slices or small molds of cus- BRAISED SIRLOIN WITH STUFFED TO- tards made of stirred yolks of eggs mixed with MATOES Top sirloin larded and braised, very small cut vegetables of various colors and taken up when done, the liquor strained, skim- a little consomme; this vegetable custard is med, and mixed with Espagnole sauce, minced then poured into a pan or small mold and fried mushrooms and sherry wine, then rapidly placed in a pan containing water, then, with a reduced to a glaze; the meat served in slices sheet of buttered paper over the mold, the pan with some of the sauce, and garnished with is put in the oven and the custard cooked, stuffed tomatoes and stuffed glazed onions, (called, FILET a la TALLEYRAND), (called, BRAISED BEEF a la PRO VENCALE) TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH CEPES TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH MUSH- Tenderloin trimmed, larded, and either braised ROOMS Tenderloin roasted with some sliced or roa sted with vegetables; the cepes drained vegetables in the pan, mushrooms lightly fried f rora t h e oil in the cans, cut into slices, lightly in butter, then put into a rich brown sauce f r j ec i i n butter, taken up and added to a rich containing sherry wine; the meat served in brown sauce, served with slices of the meat, slices and garnished with the mushrooms in TENDE RLOIN OF BEEF WITH ARTI- ^ e p CHOKES-Tenderloin trimmed, larded, and ??! of So ? ? , ^ , /^ I either braised or roasted with vegetables, served TABLES -Tenderloin trimmed larded and garnished with artichoke bottoms braised, the liquor strained, skimmed and filled with ragout o{ truffles , mushrooms and mixed with a rich brown sauce containing sherry Q smoked e Ued> FILLET O F or madeira wine, reduced to a half glaze; car- BEEF a la BAYARD) rots, turnips and celery are cut into neat pieces, ,.,,,-, nm nw m^p- WITH ^TTTFFFD boiled separately in white consomme with a TENDERLOIN OB BEEF WIT little sugar and butter, when done strained and PEPPERS - Tenderloin arded and roasted, mixed together with some French peas; meat served in shce * "** a '''tie Andalus.an sa ce served in slices with some of the sauce and gar- P oured around ' and f **"** . Wlth * 8tuflted nished with the vegetables (called. FILLET tomato at one end and a stuffed green pepper ri? RKvw * io rrftnnnftiw wi, M A. at the other, (called, FILLET OF BEEF a 1'ANDALOUSE). OF BEEF a la JARDINIERE). When the vegetables are cut into minute squares and diamonds it is (called, a la PRINTANIERE) TENDERLOIN STEAK, BORDELAISE - When the vegetables are scooped out with a Steak broiled and served Wlth a brown B rde " medium sized scoop it is (called, a la PARIS- laise sauce - or with some finel y minced shallots - IENNE). When taken out of cans or cut in 8 arlic and P arsle y fried in oil and butt f ' ~ very small fancy shapes and mixed with French lemon J uice added at the fimsh; g arnished Wlth string beans cut small and flageolets it is (called chips. alaMACEDOINE). When carrots, turnips, TENDERLOIN STEAK, PARISIAN POTA- celery, leeks and onions are cut in strips like TOES Steak broiled and served with some matches, it is Called, a la JULIENNE). When maitre d'hdtel butter poured over it and gar- the Julienne vegetables are mixed with a Hoi- nished with Parisian potatoes. landaise, Allemande or yellow cream sauce it is TENDERLOIN STEAK, SAUCE BEARNAISE (called, a la NIVERNAISE). Steak broiled and served with Bearnaise THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. sauce at one end, and Julienne potatoes with a sprig of parsley at the other. FILLETS OF BEEF WITH STRING BEANS Tenderloin steaks larded on one side, broiled, served with French string beans made hot in maitre d'hotel butter at one end, and a slice of fancy toast at the other. FILLETS OF BEEF, SAUCE PROVENCALE Tenderloin steaks larded on one side, broiled, served with some provencale sauce poured around the steak, and a small stuffed tomato at each end. TENDERLOIN STEAK SAUTEED, WITH PEPPERS Steak sauteed in butter; minced green peppers fried in butter, drained, mixed in- to brown sauce, served around the steak with a stuffed green pepper at each end, and some neat slices of pimentoes decorating the top of the steak. TENDERLOIN STEAK, SAUCE PERIGUEUX Steak broiled, served with sauce perigueux poured around it, top of steak decorated with slices of truffles, a few chip potatoes at one end of the dish, and a fancy crouton with a sprig of parsley at the other end. HAMBURG STEAK WITH ONIONS Minced raw beef and onions seasoned with salt and pepper, mixed thoroughly and formed into flat balls or steaks, fried in butter till done, served either plain or with a sauce. TOMATOED HAMBURG STEAK Minced raw beef and solid meat of the tomatoes sea- soned with salt and pepper, thoroughly mixed and formed into steaks; either broiled or fried in butter; served with tomato sauce poured around. SALISBURY STEAK WITH GRILLED PO- TATOES Minced raw beef seasoned with salt and pepper made into form of steaks, either broiled, or fried in butter; served garnished with sliced broiled potatoes (plain or sweet) and some maitre d'hotel butter on the steak. SALISBURY STEAK WITH MUSHROOMS Prepared and cooked same as the preceding; served with some fried mushrooms at one end of the dish, and chip potatoes at the other. ENGLISH BEEF SOUP Pieces of raw beef cut small, with carrots, turnips, onions and celery cut in dice, placed in soup pot with butter and lightly fried, flour then added and stirred to form a roux, moistened with boiling beef stock; when about half done, pearl barley is washed and added to the soup, also some whole allspice, peppers, cloves, thyme and bay leaves tied in a piece of muslin; when the soup is finished, the spices removed, seasoned with Worcestershire sauce and chopped parsley. SOME COOKS ARE IN THE HABIT OF PUTTING TOMATOES IN THIS SOUP, WHICH IS DECIDEDLY WRONG. BEEF BROTH WITH CELERY Into the soup pot is olaced plenty of roast beef bones and Clear gravy with slices of carrot, onions, roots and trimmings of celery; filled up with strong beef stock, simmered till done, strained and skimmed; meanwhile celery cut in inch strips like matches is fried lightly in butter, then sim- mered till tender and added to the soup. SCOTCH BEEF SOUP Prepared exactly the same as "English beef soup" above, except using Scotch oatmeal (procurable anywhere) instead of pearl barley, and adding Madeira wine at the finish. BEEF BROTH WITH RICE Prepared as for "beef broth with celery," but after the broth is strained and skimmed, allowed to boil up again, thickened lightly with corn starch, and well washed boiled rice added with a seasoning of walnut catsup. BEEF BOUILLON WITH CRUSTS Plenty of cold roast beef bones and clear gravy put into the soup pot with some chopped fresh beef, NO SPICES, but a carrot and onion; filled up with good beef stock, simmered for several hours, then strained through a consomme cloth, skimmed, seasoned with salt and pepper, served with small toast. Also served plain in cups with a thin slice of lemon. OX TAIL, THICK Prepare the "bouillon" above; ox tails cut in slices half inch thick, carrots and turnips cored out with large sized column cutter and sliced to resemble the tails but thinner, all placed with sliced onions in soup pot and fried lightly with butter or beef drippings, flour added to form a roux, moistened with the boiling bouillon, simmered till done, skimmed, seasoned with salt, pepper, Worces- tershire sauce and sherry wine. OX TAIL CLEAR Prepare the "bouillon" above and place it on the fire with some trim- mings of carrot, turnip, onions and celery, also the thick and thin ends of the tails that have been previously browned in the oven, simmered till done, then strained and clarified, the middle part of the oxtails cut in slices with carrot and turnip to match, boiled separately in consomme till tender and glazy, added to the clarified broth with sherry wine. BEEF CROQUETTES WITH PEAS A strong roast beef gravy thickened with roux and sea- soned with Worcestershire sauce is then reduced till thick, cold roast or other cooked beef is cut very small and stirred into the boiling sauce; when thoroughly heated through it is turned into a pan about an inch deep, smoothed with a knife, covered with a sheet of buttered paper and allowed to become cold, then divided into pieces of the size required, rolled into finger lengths, breaded and fried, served in twos laid slantwise across the dish, seasoned green peas placed between them, and mushroom sauce at each end, with croquette frills stuck in the cro- quettes if used. BEEF COLLOPS WITH MUSHROOMS Cold cooked beef is trimmed and cut in circles size of a dollar but thicker, made hot in a thick THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. rich beef gravy; served overlapping each other down the centre of the dish, with some fried mushrooms in sauce down both sides, and a fancy crouton at each end. This dish may also be served with a garnish of green peas, kidney beans, French string beans, mixed vegetables, small quenelles or fancy potatoes. BEEF CAKES WITH EGG Cold cooked beef minced and seasoned with salt and powdered savory, moistened slightly with roast beef gravy, made into cakes like Hamburg steaks, placed in pan with a glazy gravy poured over them; when thoroughly heated, served with a poached egg on top, and some thick roast beef gravy poured around. BEEF CUTLETS WITH PIQUANTE SAUCE The "beef croquette" mixture above, when brown) with vegetables, served with a dumpling and sprinkled with parsley; or the stew placed in a pan, soft dumpling mixture dropped in pieces all over it, put in oven and baked; or the stew left in the saucepan, dumplings put in, cover put on, then gently simmered till dump- lings are cooked. BEEF PAUPIETTES. MUSHROOM SAUCE Thin slices of cold cooked beef, trimmed to shape of envelope with the flap open, spread with a cooked forcemeat composed of minced bacon, chopped parsley, grated lemon rind, salt, pepper and savory herbs, rolled up from the broad end to the point, this pinned with a toothpick, dipped in a thin batter and fried, toothpick then removed; served with a rich mushroom sauce poured around. cold formed in the shape of veal chops, using a SCALLOPED BEEF WITH OYSTERS-Small pieces of beef already made tender in a brown stew seasoned with anchovy essence; oysters scalded and mixed with the stew, placed in scallop shells or dishes, sprinkled with bread crumbs and Parmesan cheese, baked in oven and served. mixed and seasoned with herbs, grated lemon DEVILLED BEEF WITH OYSTERS -Cold cooked tender beef cut in finger lengths an inch piece of macaroni to imitate the bone; when shaped, rolled in flour, then dipped in beaten egg and fried in hot dripping; served with Piquante sauce poured around. BEEF RISSOLES Cold cooked beef minced three parts, grated bread crumbs one part, rind, salt and pepper, bound with raw yolks of eggs, made into shapes and size of eggs, breaded and fried; served with a mound of mashed po- tatoes in the centre of dish, a rissole at each end and side, with some thickened roast beef gravy poured around, and a sprig of parsley put into the potatoes. This dish may also be served with kidney beans, green peas, French string beans or mixed vegetables instead of the pota- toes. BEEF RISSOLETTES Same as the preceding but, made smaller, served and garnished the same way. BEEF PATTIES WITH MUSHROOMS Cold cooked tender beef cut into small dice, mixed and made hot in a rich brown mushroom sauce, filled into patty shells; served with some fried mushrooms in sauce poured around. BEEF STEAK AND MUSHROOM PIE wide and half inch thick, laid in a mixture of salt, pepper, olive oil and Worcertershire sauce for an hour, then lightly fried in butter, sprink- led with parsley; served on slices of buttered toast same size as the meat alternately with broiled oysters, and Diable sauce poured around. CURRIED BEEF WITH RICE Either raw or cooked beef rolled in flour, then fried in butter with minced onions; when lightly browned, put in sauce pan with butter, flour and curry pow- der, stirred and moistened with white stock, boiled up, skimmed, then simmered with the addition of a grated green apple, lemon juice and a little chutney; when done, the meat re- moved to another saucepan, and the sauce strained over it; served with a border of dry boiled rice. Pieces of raw beef cut about an inch square MINCED BEEF WITH EGG-Either minced or finely cut cold cooked beef seasoned with savory herbs, salt and pepper is made hot in rich roast beef gravy, just enough to moisten the meat only being used; served with a fancy border of mashed potatoes, the mince in the centre, and a poached egg on top of the mince. three parts, button mushrooms (fresh or can- ned) one part, mixed; baking dish lined on the sides with short paste, meat and mushrooms put in with a little flour, salt, pepper, a minced onion and savory herbs, filled up with water to just cover the meat, top crust put on, brushed over with beaten egg and milk, put in slow oven ROAST BEEF HASH Minced onion lightly fried in butter added to finely cut roast beef two parts, and minced cold potatoes one part, mixed together, seasoned with salt, pepper and powdered marjoram with a very little roast beef gravy; the whole then tossed together, placed in a pan and baked; or kept in a sauce- pan over a slow fire till thoroughly heated; or portions put into a frying pan, browned on both sides, then formed into shape of an omelet; served either with or without a fried or poached egg, and with a crouton at ends of dish. and gently baked. BEEF STEAK AND OYSTER PIE Same as the preceding, but omitting the mushrooms and using scalded oyster liquor instead of water; when to be served, a few blanched oysters kept hot in a brown sauce placed with each portion. BEEF STEAK AND KIDNEY PIE Same as "beef steak and mushroom pie" but using pieces of blanched beef kidney instead of the mush- rooms. BEEF POT VIE A rich beef stew (white or THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. CORNED BEEF HASH Prepared, (onion op- tional) cooked, and served the same way as "roast beef hash" above, but omitting the herb, and using corned instead of roast beef. SPICED JELLIED BEEF Leg of beef freed from all bone, cut up in two inch pieces, put to boil in cold water, all scum taken off as it rises, then gently simmered till the meat falls to pieces; the liquor then strained from the meat, put to boil again for half an hour with savory herbs, salt and pepper, then strained, skimmed from all fat, and while cooling a very little gel- atine dissolved in it, the meat shredded and added to it, poured into molds to get perfectly cold and firm; served in slices garnished with thinly sliced green pickles. POTTED BEEF FOR SANDWICHES Lean roast or other cold cooked beef trimmings three parts, cold corned lean beef one part, minced fine, then pounded to a paste with two ounces of cold boiled bacon to each pound of beef, season with salt, pepper, ground mace and a very little anchovy essence; when in paste form, weigh it, then work in melted butter at the rate of two ounces to the pound; after thoroughly mixing, the paste is put away in jars with a one-quarter of an inch of melted butter poured over the top to seal them from air, (this mixture kept sealed will keep many weeks without spoiling.) TOURNEDOS OF BEEF WITH OLIVES Cold cooked beef tenderloin trimmed to a pear shape, slices of stale bread trimmed the same way, both cut in slices half an inch thick, the bread fried, the meat made hot in a Piquante sauce; served on the toast, garnished with slices of stoned olives, and the sauce poured around. MIROTON OF BEEF WITH VEGETABLES Cold cooked tender beef cut in circular pieces two inches in diameter and half an inch thick, sliced onions par-boiled, then fried a golden color in butter, the meat arranged in a pan and just covered with a brown Italian sauce, the onions spread over the whole, placed in oven and baked till the sauce is reduced to a glaze with a buttered paper over the onions; the cir- cles, with the onions still on them, served gar- nished with a mixture of small cut cooked vege- tables in brown sauce, and a fancy crouton at each end of the dish. EMINCE OF BEEF WITH PEAS Thin slices of tender cooked beef about the size of half dollars, made hot in a rich thickened roast beef gravy, served overlapping each other down the centre of the dish and the green peas as a border. SCALLOPS OF BEEF, SAUCE TRIANON Evenly cut thin slices of cold cooked beef ten- derloin sauteed with minced shallots in butter; served overlapping each other down the centre of dish, with a sauce Trianon down each side, and a fancy crouton at each end of the dish. TENDERLOIN WITH BLOOD GRAVY Thick tenderloin steak placed between two in- ferior steaks, then broiled till done, the tender- loin served on a hot dish with the gravy of the other two squeezed over it, garnished wit fancy potatoes, sprigs of parsley, and slices of lemon, (called, FILET a la CHATEAUBRIAND.) SAUTE OF BEEF, TRUFFLE SAUCE Smal/ tenderloin steaks, seasoned, then fried in butter, served garnished with a crouton at each end of dish, and truffle sauce poured around the steak, with some slices of truffles on top (called, MIG- NONS DE BOEUF AUX TRUFFES). SMALL FILLETS OF BEEF WITH OY- STERS Small tenderloin steaks, seasoned, then fried in butter, large oysters scalded, then tossed quickly over a fire in mSitre d'hotel but- ter containing a little anchovy essence; the fillets served in the centre of the dish garnished with the oysters, and their sauce poured around. SMALL FILLETS OF BEEF, maitre d'hotel Small tenderloin steaks, seasoned, then fried in butter, served garnished with fancy fried potatoes, and miitre d'hotel butter poured over the steak. These may also be garnished with a mixture of small cut vegetables. RAGOUT OF BEEF, CREOLE SAUCE Small pieces of beef simmered till tender in tomato sauce containing chopped sweet pep- pers, minced shallots, and a small quantity of madeira wine and madeira sauce; served with the sauce around, and croutons at end of the dish. BRAISED BEEF TONGUE WITH TOMA- TOES Fresh tongue soaked in cold water over night, put on in boiling water and blanched ior ten minutes, taken up, root and superfluous fat trimmed away, placed in sautoir with carrot, onions, celery, parsley, whole cloves and mace, covered with stock, and gently simmered till tender, then taken up and placed in another saucepan, the braise strained, skimmed, re- duced to a glaze with the addition of some madeira sauce, this poured over the tongue; served in slices with some sauce poured around, and a stuffed tomato at each end. SMOKED TONGUE WITH SPINACH The tongue soaked over night, put on to boil in cold water and simmered for an hour, taken up, placed in a sautoir with some vegetables and covered with stock, then simmered till tender; served in slices on a bed of spinach, with ma- deira sauce poured around. SMOKED TONGUE WITH SAUER KRAUT The tongue soaked over night, put on to boil in cold water and simmered for an hour, taken up, placed in saucepan with some well washed sauer kraut, an onion stuck wi*h cloves, carrot, and a bunch of parsley, moistened with stock to cover the whole, then simmered till tender; served in slices on a bed of the kraut, and gar- nished with glazed young carrots, with Poivrade sauce around. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. CORNED BEEF TONGUE WITH SPINACH The tongue put to boil in cold water and simmered till tender, taken up, skinned, and kept in hot broth; served in slices on a bed of spinach with some Espagnole sauce poured around. Brussels sprouts, or a jardiniere or macedoine of vegetables, form an appropriate garniture to boiled corned tongue; also the tongue served plain with either raisin or Hol- landaise sauce. BOILED BEEF HEART WITH HORSERA- DISH The heart washed and freed from blood, boiled till tender in white stock with whole mace, carrot and onions; served in slices with horseradish sauce poured around, and garnished with a small white turnip hollowed out, steamed, and filled with grated horseradish, or the tur- nip may be boiled with a little carmine in the water, giving it a reddish color. ROAST BEEF HEART, STUFFED The heart prepared and boiled till tender, as above; taken up, drained, the cavities cut out and the space filled with a sage and onion stuffing, placed in pan with brown sauce poured over it and baked till glazy; served in slices on a bed of the stuff- ing with some sauce poured around, and gar- nished with potato balls at one end and French beans at the other. BEEF KIDNEY SAUTE The kidneys cut in small pieces, put to boil in cold water, when blanched, poured into colander, washed and drained, then lightly fried in butter, sprinkled with flour, moistened with stock, simmered till tender, seasoned with salt, pepper and lemon juice; served with a border of potatoes on the dish, kidneys in the centre, sprinkled with chopped parsley. BEEF KIDNEY SOUP- -The kidneys cut small and prepared the same way as "kidney saute"." The soup made of thin Espagnole, the kidneys and their sauce added at the finish; served with small toast. BRAISED OX TAILS WITH KIDNEY BEANS The thick end of the tail is cut into portion pieces and placed in saucepan with carrot, onions, celery, bay leaves, thyme and parsley, covered with stock and simmered till tender and glazy, then taken up, the liquor strained, skimmed and added to a Madeira sauce, poured over the tails; served with a border of green kidney beans, and a fancy croflton at each end of dish. HARICOT OF OX TAILS The tails cut into pieces at the natural joints, fried with onions in a saucepan till onions are of a golden color, flour added to form a roux, moistened with stock, allowed to simmer for an hour, skimmed, turnips and carrots cut about size of the joints are then added, and simmered another hour, then small potatoes of an even size are added; when they are done, season with salt, pepper and walnut catsup; served, the tails in the centre of the dish, garnished alternately with the vegetables, the whole sprinkled with chop- ped parsley. CURRIED OX TAILS WITH SPAGHETTI The tails cut into sections at the joints, fried with onions in a saucepan till onions are of a golden color, flour and curry powder added, shaken together, then moistened with stock, simmered till tender, meanwhile adding to the sauce a grated green apple, juice of a lemon and some chutney; when done, the tails taken up into another saucepan and the sauce strained over them; served with a border of boiled spag- hetti cut in inch pieces, seasoned with Parme- san cheese. BEEF SAUSAGES Lean and fat raw beef trimmings two-thirds, soaked stale bread that is squeezed dry one-third, the meat is put through the chopping machine, then mixed with the bread and seasoned with salt, pepper, sage, thyme and a little farina, the whole is then put through the machine again; when it has all passed through cold water is added to the desired stiffness, the knife taken from the machine, filler screwed on; the salted skins having been softened in water, are blown and drawn on to the filler, meat placed in the ma- chine, the skins filled and tied. SAUSAGE CAKES WITH POTATOES The sausage meat purchased or made as in the pre- ceding recipe, formed into round cakes, and either fried or arranged in -a baking pan and baked till done; served on a bed of mashed po- tatoes with a little brown gravy poured around. BEETS Are of three colors and kinds red, white and yellow; the white is mostly used in produc- ing beet sugar, the red for culinary purposes, and the yellow for feeding cattle. BEET GREENS The leaves of the young beets are washed, put to boil in boiling salted water, containing a small piece of common washing soda; when done, they are strained, pressed, cut up fine, seasoned with salt, pepper and butter; served as a vegetable, or after being pressed they may be rubbed through a fine sieve, and the pure"e thus obtained, seasoned and served the same as spinach. PICKLED BEETS The small smooth beets washed and boiled till tender, skinned, cut in thin slices, placed in a crock, seasoned with salt, pepper, sugar, bay leaves, and covered with vinegar. BOILED BEETS IN BUTTER SAUCE Small new beets washed and boiled till done, skinned, cut in sections like those of an orange, placed into the serving crock, and a sauce composed of water, butter, salt, white pepper and vine- gar, thickened with flour poured over them. BEETS FOR GARNISHING The pickled beets above left whole and cut into the form of flow- ers, etc., or the slices cut or stamped with fancy cutters. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 17 BEET AND POTATO SALAD Small balls of to it the required amount of good white broth, cooked beets placed in tarragon vinegar; small bring to a boil, add the meat cut up from the balls of boiled potatoes placed in Ravigote tails and claws, a little lobster coral and serve sauce; served by arranging them alternately on with small toast, the dish. BISQUE OF HERRING Equal parts of fresh BEET AND EGG SALAD Slices of pickled and smoked herrings are boned, skinned and beetroot and hard boiled eggs, arranged alter- boiled with fresh or canned lobster in seasoned nately around a dish, with some pickled white fish stock; when done, it is rubbed through a onions in the centre; served with cream salad sieve; the puree then added to a clarified fish dressing. broth; served with small quenelles of fish and BEARNAISE Name of a sauce used with steaks small toast. and entries, composed of minced shallots BISQUE OF PRAWNS (OR SHRIMPS) Made braised with tarragon vinegar, to which is the same as "Bisque of crayfish" except using added a thin veloute sauce, then some beaten all prawns or shrimps. yolks of eggs, continually stirred over the fire BISQUE OF LOBSTER Meat of fresh boiled till like custard, removed, melted butter then lobsters cut into small squares, the tough parts beaten in at the rate of three ounces to the pint, with the shells and claws boiled for twenty seasoned with lemon juice and red pepper, minutes longer, the coral dried in a slow oven, strained, finished by adding chopped parsley the stock made of Bechamel sauce thinned with and tarragon leaves. Some cooks omit the the water the fish were boiled in, the coral veloute" sauce, and use only butter and egg then rubbed through a sieve and added to the yolks, thus making a kind of butter mayonnaise, soup giving it a pinkish appearance; finished that will very readily disintegrate if allowed to by adding the squares of meat and some small keep hot. quenelles of lobster. BECHAMEL Name of a white sauce composed BISQUE OF OYSTERS Scalded oysters and of reduced chicken broth with some essence of boiled rice in equal bulk rubbed through a mushrooms, an equal quantity of rich milk or sieve, added to a thin cream of oyster souj>, cream, boiled up, thickened with flour and flavored with mace rad bay leaves, butter, seasoned with salt, lemon juice and BISQUE OF SALMON Cooked salmon rubbed grated nutmeg, then strained for use. through a sieve added to stock composed of BENEDICTINE The name of a liqueur used equa i parts o f court-bouillon and veloute" sauce, as a cordial, as a flavoring to sauces and con- boiled up, seasoned, finished with chopped fectionery, in making punches and other drinks; parsley and Sauterne wine. it resembles "yellow chartreuse" in flavor and BIS g UE OF PLOVERS The plovers braised appearance, is made principally at the Abbey for an hour in madeira sauce> taken up and of Fecamp in Europe. pounded, then rubbed through a sieve; boiled BISQUE-The French term given to soups made farina> enough to thickeQ the quantity of the of a thick pure-e principally of shellfish and SQUp is rubbed through a sievei the two purges BISQUE OF CRABS-Half a pound of rice then added to a game stock, boiled up, skimmed, , , r , , , , seasoned, finished with port wine. boiled to each gallon of soup; when done add PARTRIDGE-Braised or roast half a pound of crab meat to each gallon, (good r > 13< *J UE - ^ r u**xi^Ma crab meat is obtainable any time of the year in partridge meat pounded and rubbed through a the form of "McMenamin's canned deviled crab sieve Wlth whlte bread crumbs and a P ure ^ of meat"), then rub the who\e through a fine sieve chestnuts, the whole then added to a game-flav- adding a little melted butter and a seasoning of ored stock ' ^^ U P- Dimmed, seasoned, fin- nutmeg. Make the stock of thin veloute. add lshed Wlth P ort wme ' the rice and crab puree, bring to a simmer, BISQUE OF TERRAPIN -Terrapin shells, then add sliced okras, minced red and green beads and trimmings simmered in consomme peppers, sliced tomatoes, season with marjoram, for four hours, strained, the meat rubbed thyme, red pepper and lemon juice, simmer through a sieve and put back into the strained slowly for one hour and serve. ' stock with some parsley, thyme, cloves, mace, BISQUE OF CRAYFISH Use all crayfish if bay leaves, whole peppers and minced onions, you can get them; if not, get a dozen or two, all tied in a muslin bag, brought to a boil, which boil in a little water containing salt, skimmed, an equal quantity of veloute- sauce whole peppers, parsley and onions, cook them added, simmered for a few minutes, finished by twenty minutes, drain, cool, pick out meat from the addition of some boiling cream. tails and claws, throw away the intestines. BISQUE OF JACK RABBIT The rabbit cat pound the rest, shells and head, also some up and braised with spices and vegetables in boiled fish, lobster and yolks of hard boiled consomme till tender, then pounded and rubbed eggs to a paste, adding some melted butter; through a sieve, the braise strained, the pure* boil this paste with a little veal stock for an put back into it, boiled up, skimmed, equal hour till dry, then rub it through a sieve, add volume of thin veloute" sauce added to it, sea- i8 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. soned, finished with sherry wine, and served running out, top cover placed on, washed over with some small quenelles of rabbit. with pie wash, baked, served with small pieces BLANCH OR BLANCHED Foods placed to of cheese. boil in cold water, removed after coming to the BLACKBERRY SHORTCAKE Two sheets of boil, poured into a colander and well washed; short paste, spread between with the fruit taken and in the case of almonds, etc., the skins are from a compote, the upper sheet spread with then easily removed. whipped cream and decorated with some fresh BLANC MANGE Milk put to boil, containing berries. sugar, grated orange rind, and a few bitter al- BLACKBERRY JAM Fresh picked over ber- monds; when boiled, strain into another sauce- ries mixed with ten ounces of sugar to each pan, boiled up again, then thickened with corn pound of fruit, gradually brought to a simmer, starch, and poured into molds, the bottoms then allowed to cook till fairly thick, or till it and sides of which may be decorated with crys- sets when dropped on a cold dish, tallized fruits. After the blanc mange is made BLACKBIRDS Can be obtained nearly all the it may be made into "ribbon cream" by separ- year round of the New York and Chicago game ating it into four vessels, coloring one green and poultry merchants; they are very cheap and flavoring it with pistachios, another red and make useful entries. with a rose flavor, another with some boiling BLACKBIRDS BROILED ON SKEWERS, chocolate; when filling the molds, the white is (en brochette) The birds drawn, wiped, picked, placed first and the chocolate last. and wrapped round with a very thin slice of BLANQUETTE A term often used in describ- bacjn, run on skewers, broiled, served on toast, ing a white fricassee of white meats, such as garnished with parsley and slices of lemon, sweetbreads, veal, animal brains, spring lamb, COMPOTE OF BLACKBIRDS The black- rabbit, chicken, etc., etc. birds picked, drawn, wiped and trussed, then BLACKBERRIES Also called "dewberries," quickly browned with butter in a hot oven, a fruit of the raspberry species, used as a table taken up, placed in a game sauce and simmered fruit, preserves, made into brandies and till tender; served in croustades with some cordials. sauce poured around. BLACKBERRIES WITH CREAM The ber- SALMIS OF BLACKBIRDS The blackbirds ries picked over, served in dishes with cream picked, drawn, wiped and trussed, quickly and powdered sugar. roasted, then placed in a game sauce with some BLACKBERRY PUDDING Picked over black- mushrooms and stoned olives; when done, berries 3 quarts, flour 2 pounds, baking soda served with a fancy crouton at ends of the dish, one ounce, New Orleans molasses one quart, and the sauce poured over the birds; garnish little salt, the whole mixed together without with the mushrooms and olives, water, put into molds, cover tied on, boiled BLACKBIRD PIE The blackbirds picked, three hours. Served with sauce DOREE com- drawn, wiped and stuffed with breadcrumbs posed of half pound of butter beaten till creamy mixed with salt, pepper, chopped parsley, nut- with half pound of powdered sugar, placed men ano ^ e gg s . trussed, quickly made brown in over the fire and two beaten yolks of eggs the oven, placed in pie dish, covered with game stirred in; when thick, work in half a pint of sauce and some sliced hard boiled eggs, cov- brandy, and season with grated nutmeg. ered with pie paste and baked. BLACKBERRY CHARLOTTE Molds or pans BLACKBIRDS IN POTATOES The blackbird lined with slices of buttered bread, sides and picked, drawn, wiped and an oyster placed in- bottoms, then filled with picked over berries, side, trussed, quickly browned in the oven with seasoned with sugar, covered with slices of butter. Evenly peeled potatoes (Irish or sweet) buttered bread, sprinkled with sugar, slowly split in halves lengthwise, hollowed out, the baked till brown and glazy; served with fruit bird placed in, tied with string, baked and sauce. basted with butter; when the potato is done, BLACKBERRY TARTLETTES Small fancy so is the bird; served with game sauce poured molds lined with puff paste with a crimped around, and fancy croutons at ends, edge, filled with a dry compote of blackberries; BLACKFISH A black skinned fish of the perch baked; when done, the centre decorated with species, found plentifully South, piped meringue. FRIED BLACKFISH WITH BACON The BLACKBERRY COMPOTE The picked over fish scaled, trimmed, seasoned, rolled in flour; berries put into a boiling syrup and simmered the bacon fried; the fish then fried in the till tender; served in small croustades of sweet- bacon fat; served with a slice of the bacon, ened rice. garnished with chip potatoes, parsley, and a BLACKBERRY PIE Pie plates lined with pie slice of lemon. paste, berries mixed with sugar and a dusting BROILED BLACKFISH WITH PARSLEY of flour, the plates filled, little baking soda BUTTER The fish scaled, trimmed, scored, sprinkled over the fruit to prevent the juice brushed with melted butter, seasoned, rolled in THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. flour, brushed again with butter and broiled; served with m&itre d'hotel butter poured over the fish, and garnished with Julienne potatoes. BLACKFISH SAUTE WITH FINE HERBS The fish scaled, trimmed, seasoned, rolled in flour, sauted in butter, then placed in another sautoir containing fines herbes sauce, simmered for a few minutes, served with some of the sauce poured around, and garnished with Par- isienne potatoes. BAKED BLACKFISH, OYSTER SAUCE The fish scaled, trimmed, seasoned, placed in a baking pan, brown oyster sauce strained over the fish, baked to a glazy appearance; served with a brown oyster sauce poured over the fish, and garnished with small potato croquettes. BOILED BLACKFISH, ITALIAN SAUCE The fish scaled, trimmed and put to boil in boiling water containing an onion stuck with cloves, slices of carrots, salt, bay leaves and a little vinegar, simmered till done; served with a white Italian sauce, and garnished with quart- ers of small potatoes sprinkled with parsley. BLACKDIVER Name of a wild duck held in great esteem by epicures, is at its best in the form of salmis, or braised and served with a little grated chocolate dissolved in the sauce. BLACK COCK Often seen on "bills of fare" as Coq de Bruyere, Heath fowl, Black game and Black grouse. BRAISED BLACK GROUSE The bird picked, singed, drawn and wiped, the breast larded with thin strips of seasoned larding pork; placed in a saucepan with some bacon trim- mings, carrot, onions, whole cloves and peppers, moistened with a game sauce and a dash of tarragon vinegar, simmered in the oven till tender; when done ; taken up, the braise strained Burgundy wine added to it, then reduced; the bird served with some of the sauce poured over it, and garnished with small sausage balls. BROILED BLACK COCK WITH JELLY The young birds picked, singed, drawn and wiped, split down the back, backbone and breast bone removed, seasoned with salt and pepper, brushed with butter, broiled; served on toast with a sauce made of jelly and butter melted and beaten together, poured over the bird, a little currant jelly served separate, garnished with chip potatoes, and a sprig of parsley. SALMIS OF HEATH FOWL The birds picked, drawn, singed and wiped, disjointed, roasted lightly; placed in a saucepan with game sauce, made from the head, feet, liver, heart, neck and gizzard; simmered till tender, seasoned with sherry wine and essence of mushrooms; served with some of the sauce poured over the bird, and garnished with fried button mush- rooms. ROAST BLACK GAME, BREAD SAUCE The bird picked, drawn, singed, wiped and trussed, roasted with a slice of bacon tied over the breast, when nearly done, the bacon re- moved, the breast dredged with flour and melted butter, then browned; served with bread sauce, and some of the gravy poured around. BLACK PUDDING Often seen on the bill of fare as "Boudin Noir," they are made of sheeps, or pigs' blood and chopped suet, seasoned, filled into intestines, smoked, boiled, and when cold, served in thin slices as an appetiser. BLOATERS Are smoked herrings, and the best are imported from "YARMOUTH" a sea port city of England, which city has never found an equal rival in this production. TOASTED BLOATERS The head removed with the entrails without opening the fish, which is done by cutting the neck across the back and drawing the entrails with the gills, they are then washed in cold water, wiped dry. and slowly broiled; served with melted butter, garnished with lemon and parsley. BAKED YARMOUTH BLOATERS IN SAUCE The fish drawn, then blanched, taken up and skinned, the flesh lifted off in fillets free from bone, then laid in pan, and covered with a thick anchovy sauce containing a little bloater paste, sprinkled with grated cheese and bread crumbs, baked; served garnished with fancy potatoes. YARMOUTH BLOATERS SAUTES The fil- lets prepared as in the preceding, then lightly fried in butter, seasoned with red pepper, sprinkled with chopped parsley; served on toast garnished with lemon and parsley. BLUEFISH A great favorite and in good de- mand in any form on the bill of fare, although baked or broiled have the most calls; a six pound fish cuts to best advantage for restaurant use, cutting five good portions; a four to five pound fish being too thin for restaurants, but just the thing for a course dinner. BLUEFISH STUFFED AND BAKED The fish scaled, trimmed, wiped dry and filled with a stuffing composed of cooked veal two parts, boiled bacon one part, and grated bread crumbs one part, the meat chopped fine, then mixed with the bread crumbs, seasoned with salt, pepper, marjoram, thyme, mace, and lemon juice, mixed thoroughly and slightly moistened with fish broth; when filled, the opening sewn np, the fish dredged with flour and put in a pan with carrot, turnip, onion, a few cloves, claret wine and consomme; baked; when done, taken up, and to the pan is added some Espagnole sauce; boiled up, strained; served with some of the sauce, and garnished with Duchesse potatoes. BLUEFISH STEAKS, ITALIAN SAUCE The fish cut into steaks, and arranged in a buttered pan containing some minced shallots, white wine and mushroom liquor, covered with a sheet of buttered paper, baked; when done, taken up, some Italian sauce strained into the pan, boiled up, and strained back into a rich THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. Italian sauce; served with some of the sauce a buttered baking pan, moistened with anchovy poured over, and garnished with Hollandaise sauce, sprinkled with grated bread crumbs and potatoes. melted butter, baked; served with anchovy BAKED BLUEFISH WITH TOMATOES sauce, and garnished with Parisienne potatoes. The fish cut in portions, seasoned, dredged BAKED BLUEFISH, MATELOTE SAUCE with flour, placed in a buttered pan, to which The fish cut in steaks, seasoned, brushed with is added minced onions, tomato sauce, and a butter, arranged in pan, moistened with claret can of tomatoes that have been strained from wine, baked; when done on one side, turned their juice; baked; when done, served with over and browned on the other, then taken up, some of the tomatoes poured around, and gar- and to the wine in the pan is added some Es- nished with small potato croquettes. pagnole sauce and mushroom liquor, boiled up, BOILED BLUEFISH, SHRIMP SAUCE The strained, skimmed, finished with grated nut- fish cut in portions, put to boil in boiling fish meg and anchovy butter, the fish served with broth containing salt, peppers, cloves, carrot some of the sauce poured around, and garnished and onion in slices, with a dash of vinegar; with Victoria potatoes. when done, served with a shrimp sauce poured BOUCHEE A French word which means around, and garnished with quartered steamed "mouthful;" it is used to designate certain potatoes sprinkled with maitre d'hotel butter. specimens of cookery, both savory and sweet, BROILED BLUEFISH WITH ANCHOVY that are filled into puff paste and sponge cake BUTTER The fish cut in portions, seasoned, patty cases, hence, a Bouche"e is a small patty, dredged with flour, brushed with butter, broiled; BOUCHEE OF OYSTERS Oysters scalded, the when done, served with some anchovy butter liquor made into a sauce, oysters cut into dice, on top of the fish, and garnished with chip po- added to the finished sauce, seasoned with tatoes, parsley, and a slice of lemon. lemon juice and anchovy essence, filled into BAKED BLUEFISH WITH FINE HERBS puff paste patty shells, and served. The fish cut in steaks, seasoned, dredge with BOUCHEE OF CHICKEN Breast of chicker flour, arranged in buttered baking pan, covered (cooked) cut into dice, mixed into a rich ve"loute with a fines-herbes sauce, baked; served with sauce, made hot, filled into patty shells and some of the sauce poured around, and garnished served. with potatoes chateau. Bluefish prepared as BOUCHEE OF GAME Any cold cocked game in the recipe just given, may also be served and may be used, and if desired can be so named baked with Piquante, Bordelaise and Tomato instead of the word "game," the meat cut in sauces. small squares, and made hot in a sauce approp- BLUEFISH SAUTE, ADMIRAL SAUCE riate to the game used, filled into small patty The fish cut in steaks, seasoned, dredged with shells and served. flour, fried in butter; when done, taken up, and BOUCHEE OF FOIE-GRAS This is served into the pan they were fried in, some butter cold. The foie-gras is cut into small pieces, sauce is added, boiled up, and strained into put into patty shells with limpid aspic jelly, another sautoir containing minced fried shal- and served when set. lots, capers, grated lemon rind, and pounded BOUCHEE OF SWEETBREADS The sweet- anchovies; boiled, skimmed, the fish served with breads broiled, cut into small squares, made the sauce poured around, and garnished with hot in a white Italian sauce, the warm patty Cond6 potatoes. shells filled and served. BLUEFISH SAUTE WITH ANCHOVIES BOUCHEE OF LOBSTERS Fresh boiled lob- Tbe fish cut into portions, seasoned, dredged ster meat cut in dice, made hot in a Supreme with flour, fried in butter, taken up; into the sauce, filled into the patty shells and served. pan is then put some minced shallots; when BOUCHEE WITH RAGOUT The patty shells browned, anchovy paste and lemon juice added, filled with a mixture of smoked tongue, breast with a little Bordelaise sauce, boiled up, of chicken, truffles and mushrooms; all cut strained; served with some of the sauce, and small and made hot in a Supreme sauce, cover garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. put on and served, (called, BOUCHEES a la STUFFED FILLETS OF BLUEFISH The REINE). fish filleted and cut in portions, seasoned, BOUCHEE WITH MARROW The spinal dredged with flour, quickly broiled on the cut marrow of beef cut in pieces, cooked in a sauce side, the broiled part spread with a thick Albert, filled into the patty shells and served. veMout( sauce containing grated ham, minced BOUCHEE WITH GAME PUREE Tlie patty fried shallots, mushrooms and chopped parsley; shells filled with a rich pure"e of any form of when all ire spread, placed skin side down in game, highly seasoned, (called, BOUCHEES k a buttered baking pan, with a little white wine, la ST. HUBERT). baked; served with parsley sauce poured around BOUCHEE OF CRAYFISH TAILS The meat and garnished with potato quenelles. from the tails of fresh boiled crayfish, cut up BAKED BLUEFISH IN CRUMBS The fish and made hot in a cream parsley sauce, filled cut into portion pieces, seasoned, arranged in into the patty shells and served. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. BOUCHEE WITH SALPICON Cooked poul- try or game cut small, made hot in a rich sauce, filled into the patty shells and served. 8OUCHEE WITH OX PALATES The patty shell filled with a mixture of small cut pieces of braized ox palate and mushrooms, made hot in Allemande sauce. BOUCHEE OF SARDINES The sardines made into a paste with Gruyere cheese, salt, pepper and chili vinegar, mix with a few scald- ed oysters cut small, the patty shells filled and served, garnished with hard boiled yolks of eggs rubbed through a sieve, resembling ver- micelli. BOUCHEE WITH MUSHROOMS Slices of button mushrooms lightly fried in butter, then put into a rich Madeira sauce, made hot, filled into the patty shells, and the opening filled with a cork made of a mushroom nicely glazed. BOUCHEE OF REEDBIRD The reedbird boned, stuffed, braized with wine, taken up. glazed, jointed, put in the patty shells, some Perigueux sauce poured in and served. BOUCHEE OF WOODCOCK Snipe, Larks, Ricebirds and Ortolans, may be prepared and served same as the preceding. BOUCHEE OF ANCHOVIES Coiled anchov^ ies in oil, taken out and drained, Mayonnaise sauce beaten with stiff aspic jelly and a dash of tarragon vinegar, the anchovies dipped into it, and filled into cold patty shells, the top then decorated with a cover made of aspic jelly, and served. BOUCHEE OF SOLE The sole filleted and braised, cut in small pieces, when cold, put into the patty shells, limpid fish jelly poured in, the top decorated with Montpelier butter and served. BOUCHEE OF SALMON- -Cold cooked salmon in flakes, mixed with Ravigote sauce, filled into the patty shells, the top decorated with Mayon- naise and studded with capers. BOUCHEE OF ORANGES The patty shell used for sweet bouchees is made of a rich stiff "lady finger mixture" forced out of a pastry bag in rings one on top of the other to the de- sired height, sprinkled with pink sugar, baked and glazed, the oranges peeled and separated in sections, then simmered in an orange syrup; when done, taken up and drained, put into the boucb^es, the top decorated with a flavored water icing(called, BOUCHEES a la SEVILLE) BOUCHEES OF PLUMS The shell made as in the preceding, the plums peeled, stoned and cut in slices, simmered in syrup, taken up and drained, put into the bouche'es, limpid sweet jelly poured in; when the jelly is set, the top decorated and served. BOUCHEE OF PEACHES Prepared the same as the preceding, substituting peaches for plums. Strawberries, cherries and red rasp- berries may also be treated this way. BOUDIN The French name for a pudding made of meats, game, poultry and fish, In the form of cakes or sausages. BOUDIN NOIR Or black pudding, see (blacK pudding). BOUDIN OF VEAL Finely minced veal and bacon seasoned with aromatic herbs, then made into small sausage shapes, poached in white stock, served with a sauce Perigueux, (called, BOUDIN DE VEAU). BOUDIN OF RABBIT Same as the preceding, substituting rabbit for the veal; served with a light game sauce, (called, BOUDIN DE LA- PIN). BOUDIN OF HARE Same as the preceding, substituting hare for rabbit, (called, BOUDIN DE LIEVRE). BOUDIN OF FOWL Cold white chicken or turkey meat pounded to a paste with a season- ing of nutmeg, salt, red pepper, lemon juice and herbs, the paste forced into a skin, plunged into boiling white stock till thoroughly heated through, taken up, served cold in slices alter- nately with slices of black pudding, (called BOUDIN BLANC). BOULETTES OF GAME The word boulette signifies "ball" and is used very seldom, except to describe a garnish. "Boulettes of potatoes" are what is better known as potatoes Victoria. Boulettes of game are made of a highly sea- soned mince of cold game, breaded and fried. BOUILLABAISSE A national soup of the Latin race, composed of pieces of fish (boned and skinned), garlic, chopped parsley, bay leaves, tomatoes, leeks, onions, lobster, savory herbs, potatoes, olive oil and saffron, fried, then sim- mered till done; served in platefuls with slices of toast dried in the oven. BROCHETTE A skewer on which are threaded small delicate meats, etc., to be cooked, and served with or without the skewer; also used by confectioners to thread fruit on before can- dying them. BROCHETTE OF OYSTERS Oysters, bacon and sweetbreads (optional), the bacon and sweetbreads cut in slices same length as the oysters, seasoned with salt, pepper, powdered thyme and chopped parsley, the oysters and sweetbreads dipped in beaten eggs, then rolled in fresh grated bread crumbs, threaded alter- nately on the skewer with the bacon; when full, fried in hot fat, served with some heated to- mato catsup, that is seasoned with anchovy essence poured around, and garnished with lemon and parsley, BROCHETTE OF LAMB KIDNEYS The kidneys with the skin removed and split in two without quite severing, threaded on the skewer flat, quickly broiled for an instant over a hot fire, then taken off and seasoned with salt, pep- per and ground mint, dipped in veloute 1 sauce, then fresh grated bread crumbs, brushed with melted butter and broiled over a slow fire till 22 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. done; served with a sauce Colbert poured pickled pork cut in slices same size as the kid- around, neys, threaded alternately on skewer, rolled in BROCHETTE OF SPRING LAMB Circular olive oil, then breaded and fried; served with steaks of the leg of raw lamb, one cutlet of the Robert sauce containing a dash of anchovy leg making about three steaks, laid for an hour essence poured around, and garnished with a in a mixture of minced shallots, chives, mint, small baked and glazed apple, garlic, lemon juice, nutmeg, melted butter, salt BROCHETTE OF MUTTON Cutlets from and pepper, then taken up, rolled in fresh the leg or loin, cut into even sized pieces, sea- grated bread crumbs, threaded on the skewer, soned with a mixture of salt, pepper, cinnamon broiled till done and served with Colbert sauce and powdered savory, threaded on skewer, ar- poured around. ranged in baking pan, moistened with a thin BROCHETTE OF VEAL Cold cooked veal and tomato sauce, roasted and basted with it; served boiled ham cut into even sized pieces, the veal with tomato sauce poured around, and gar- seasoned with salt, pepper and powdered mar- nished with chip potatoes. joram, threaded alternately on the skewer, BROCHETTE OF MUSSELS Prepared and breaded, fried, served with white Italian sauce served the same way as the recipe given for poured around, and garnished with watercress. "brochette of oysters." BROCHETTE OF DUCK LIVERS The liver BROCHETTE OF SWEETBREADS The is par-boiled, then prepared and cooked the sweetbreads soaked, blanched, then boiled till same way as "chicken livers" following; served tender with vegetables and spices, taken up, with Bigarrade sauce poured around, and gar- drained, skinned, pressed till cold, cut in pieces, nished with water cress and lemon. then cut circular with the largest sized column BROCHETTE OF CHICKEN LIVERS The cutter; slices of cold cooked tongue the same livers washed and dried, seasoned with salt and way; both dipped in cooling white Italian sauce; pepper, slices of bacon Rightly broiled, then cut when cold, rolled in fresh grated bread crumbs, in pieces same size as the livers, the skewer then threaded alternately on the skewer; when threaded with them alternately; when all on full, breaded, fried, served with white Italian rolled in melted butter or olive oil, then in sauce poured around. fresh grated bread crumbs, broiled, served on BROCHETTE OF SMELTS A judicious way a slice of narrow toast with miitre d'hotel but- of using up the small smelts; the fish wiped, ter poured over, and garnished with water after entrails are drawn, seasoned with salt and cress. pepper, rolled in flour, then in beaten eggs and BROCHETTE OF GEESE LIVERS The liv- fresh bread crumbs, threaded on the skewer ers boiled in stock till done, then cut into slices; through the gills, fried in hot fat, taken up, smoked cooked tongue the tip end cut in slices drained; served with or without tartar or to- same size as the livers; both dipped in cooling mato sauce, garnished with lemon and parsley. Perigueux sauce; when cold, threaded alter- BROCHETTE OF CALF'S BRAINS The nately on the skewer, rolled in grated bread brains soaked, skinned, washed, blanched in crumbs, then breaded and fried, served with boiling water containing a little vinegar, taken Perigueux sauce poured around, and garnished up, drained, cut in even sized pieces; also with water cress and lemon. bacon cut the same size; the brains seasoned BROCHETTE OF TURKEY LIVERS The with salt, pepper, nutmeg, powdered thyme and livers blanched, cut in slices, lightly sauteed chopped parsley, threaded on the skewer alter- with finely minced shallots, garlic and chives, nately with the bacon, rolled in melted butter, taken up, drained, seasoned with salt, pepper then in bread crumbs, broiled, served with and lemon juice, threaded alternately on skewer Ravigote sauce, and garnished with watercress with pieces of half broiled bacon, dipped in and lemon. melted butter, then bread crumbs, beaten eggs BROCHETTE OF LOBSTER Cold boiled and bread crumbs again, broiled, served with lobster meat cut in pieces and marinaded in a Hanover sauce poured around, and garnished mixture of salt, pepper, nutmeg and Worces- with watercress. tershire sauce for an hour, then threaded on 8ROCHETTE OF EELS The eels skinned skewer alternately with the large head of a and cut into inch pieces, steeped for an hour button mushroom, rolled in butter, then in. in equal quantities of olive oil and vinegar, fresh bread crumbs, broiled, served with mditre with salt, pepper, chopped parsley and thyme; d'hotel butter mixed with anchovy essence then placed on skewer alternately with bacon, poured around, and garnished with parsley and arranged on a baking pan with some of the lemon. marinade poured over them; roasted for ten BROCHETTE OF RABBIT Raw young rab- minutes, taken up, drained, breaded, fried and bit meat and cold boiled salt pork cut in even served with tartar sauce. sized pieces, the rabbit saute*ed in butter with 8ROCHETTE OF PIGS' KIDNEYS The kid- fine herbs, taken up and threaded alternately neys par-boiled, cut in slices, seasoned with on the skewer with the salt pork, seasoned with salt, pepper and powdered sage; told boiled a mixture of salt, pepper and powdered herbs, THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. Dreaded, fried, and served with brown Italian sauce poured around. BROCHETTE OF TURKEY Slices of light and dark meat of cold cooked turkey, seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, dipped in cool- ing Supreme sauce; when cold, rolled in bread crumbs, then breaded and fried; served with sauce Supreme. BROCHETTE OF LAMB FRIES Prepared, cooked, and served the same way as the recipe given for 'brochette of calf's brains," tomato sauce to be used instead of ravigote. BROCHETTE OF SCALLOPS The scallops drained, seasoned with salt, pepper and chopped parsley, breaded, placed alternately on skewer with pieces of bacon fried, served, with Alle- mande sauce contaiinng a little lobster coral. BROCHETTE OF REED BIRDS The birds picked, drawn, wiped, and trussed with the head tucked under the wing, a small ball of m&itre d'hotel butter and the liver of the bird minced and put inside, threaded alternately on the skewer with a piece of cold boiled bacon, seasoned, broiled, served on toast and garnished with parsley and lemon. BROCHETTE OF CRAYFISH TAILS The fresh boiled meat of the crayfish tails, prepared and served the same way as the recipe given for "brochette of lobster." BRINE A preserving and flavoring mixture of salt, spices, saltpetre and water is the best thing to put meats into that are just on the turn; after first washing them and rubbing them over with powdered charcoal or borax, and again thoroughly washing them. For mix- ture see "corned beef." BRIE Name of a very- rich cream cheese made near Paris, France, is of a circular form, an inch thick, wrapped in parchment paper, put into thin wooden boxes and imported to this country; it is, however, very much, and fairly well imitated by our own cheese manufacturers. BRANDY A spirit distilled from wines, is clear and sparkling. In the year 1878 the vineyards of the Charente were devastated by the phyl- loxera, causing the annual production, which averaged 170,000,000 gallons, to fall in 1898 to only 11,000,000; consequently, since 1878, only a very small quantity of genuine brandy has been shipped to this country, the bulk being a blend of grain spirit flavored with brandy. An oil distilled from brandy is used with a spirit in producing an imitation that is sold as cook- ing brandy. BRANDY SAUCE Water, lemon juice, sugar and grated nutmeg brought to the boil, butter and flour sizzling in another sauce pan, the flavored water strained into it, stirring at the same time, allowed to simmer for a few min- utes, taken from the fire, and brandy to the de- sired flavor added. BREAD A combination of flour, salt, sugar, water and yeast, mixed, set to rise, kneaded, risen again, molded, proved and baked. The different kinds of bread on the market is legion, and with all sorts of claims, principally for the benefit of health and digestion, such as "whole meal," "gluten," "aerated," "steamed," "die- titic," "diabetic," "buttermilk," "dyspepsia," etc., which argument may be based on sound doctrine or not, at least, doctors, chemists and anylists, are continually arguing the pro. and con. of the different claimants as the following quotation will show for itself. WHITE VERSUS BROWN BREAD There appeared in the St. Bartholomew's Hospital report a very interesting communication on the relative digestibility of white and brown bread by Drs. Lauder, Brunton and Tunnicliffe. While the authors admit that, regarded from a purely chemical point of view, the nutritive value of brown bread is greater than white, they maintain that this is not so when consid- ered from the physiological side. The authors point out that it is absurd to take the mere chemical composition as an index of the value of food stuff, as a stick of charcoal, the atmos- pheric air, a little water, some sea salt, contain all the elements of a typical diet. Hence, the greatest importance attaches not only to the composition, but to the ways in which the var- ious constituents are combined so that they can be readily and easily assimilated. The conclusion that the authors come to is mainly that, although brown bread, both on account of its large percentage of mineral matters and fat forming constituents, is chemically superior to white bread, yet these constituents do not so readily pass into the blood as in the case of white bread, and that, weight for weight, white bread is more nutritious than brown. In spec- ial cases where there is a deficiency of mineral matter, and especially in cases of growing children, when large quantities of these are required for production of bone and tissue, brown bread may be useful, but even in these cases, if these mineral salts, and especially salts of calcium, are supplied by other means, white bread is preferable to brown. BRAINS Of animals are esteemed by the cook in producing delicate entries, and are remuner- ative to the proprietor on account of their small cost. They must, before cooking, be thor- oughly cleansed of the skin and blood that covers them; they are easily digested, and fairly nutritious. SCRAMBLED BRAINS Pigs, sheep, calf or beef brains, as there is scarcely any difference in the flavor, being all composed of the same material, are cleansed, par-boiled in salted water with a dash of vinegar, taken up, drained, cut into small pieces, added to an equal volume of beaten eggs, seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, poured into a pan containing butter, and scrambled around till set. Served on toast (optional), garnished with croutons and parsley. THE CULIN/HY HANDBOOK. 24 BRAIN FORCEMEAT Cold boiled brains sauce, and garnished with parsley. minced, then pounded to a paste with flour, BRAISED BRAINS WITH STUFFED TO- MATOES The brains blanched, trimmed, and arranged in a sautoir with carrot, onion, pars- ley, bay leaves and cloves, moistened with white stock, covered with a sheet of buttered paper, braised till done, taken up, the liquor skimmed and strained into a Velout sauce, re duced, the brains served with some of the sauce egg yolks; seasoned with nutmeg, salt, pepper and chopped parsley. BRAIN CROQUETTES WITH PEAS The croquettes formed in cone shapes of "brain forcemeat" breaded, fried, served with a frill stuck into the croquette, and garnished with green peas at the ends of the dish, with Alle- mande sauce at side BRAIN CUTLETS, VILLEROI SAUCE The poured over them, and garnished with small stuffed tomatoes. cutlets size and shape of small lamb chops BRAISED BRAINS, SAUCE REMOULADE made of "brain forcemeat" with a piece of macaroni to represent the bone, breaded, fried; served with Villeroi sauce poured around. BRAIN CAKES WITH BACON The cakes size and shape of small codfish cakes, made of train forcemeat" breaded, fried, served with a slice of broiled bacon and Bechamel sauce poured around. The brains prepared and cooked the same way as in the preceding recipe, with the addition of a little white wine to the moistening stock; when done, the braise skimmed, strained and reduced to a glaze, then mixed into a hot Re- moulade sauce; served with the sauce poured over the brains, and garnished with fancy croutons. ROAST BRAINS WITH FORCEMEAT BALLS BRAISED BRAINS WITH MUSHROOMS Calf's brains par-boiled and trimmed, sea- soned with salt and pepper, dipped in melted butter, then rolled in flour, quickly roasted and basted with butter; served garnished with fried balls of "brain forcemeat" and fines herbes sauce poured around. SCALLOPED BRAINS IN SHELL Cold cooked brains in slices, mixed with a white Italian sauce, filled into scallop shells, sprinkled with grated cheese and bread crumbs, baked served in the shells (called, CERVEAUX EN COQUILLE AU GRATIN). BRAINS AND MUSHROOMS IN CASES Cold cooked brains and button mushrooms cut in neat pieces, tossed in butter over a quick fire to color lightly, then moistened with Su- prSme sauce; served in fancy paper cases. CALF'S BRAINS AND TONGUE, MUSH- ROOM SAUCE The brains par-boiled and trimmed, the tongues boiled, skinned, trimmed and cut lengthwise, dipped in cooling Piquante sauce; when cold, both breaded and fried; served with mushroom sauce. FRIED BRAINS WITH BROWN BUTTER The brains blanched and trimmed, seasoned, brushed with butter, rolled in flour, dipped in The brains blanched, trimmed, and arranged in a sautoir with slices of bacon, vegetables and spices, moistened with white stock and juice of a lemon, covered with thin slices of bacon, braised till done, taken up, the bacon cut in pieces, the braise reduced to a glaze, and strained over some button mushrooms and small glazed onions, the brains sprinkled with fried bread crumbs, and garnished with the bacon, mushrooms and onions alternately. BRAINS IN SAUCE POULETTE WITH RICE The brains blanched, trimmed and simmered in poulette sauce, served with the sauce poured over them and garnished with small timbales of rice, with a small sprig of parsley stuck in them. BRAINS WITH SORREL, SAUCE RAVIGOTE The brains blanched, trimmed and simmered till tender in white stock with the juice of a lemon. Served on a bed of puree of sorrel, the brains masked with Ravigote sauce. CREAMED BRAINS WITH KIDNEY BEANS The brains blanched, trimmed and simmered in cream sauce till done; served masked with the sauce and garnished with kidney beans (flageolets) that have been sauteed in butter. beaten eggs, then fried; served with brown CROUSTADES OF BRAINS WITH ARTI- butter poured over them, made by melting butter over a quick fire till it froths and browns, then adding to it the juice of a lemon and some finely chopped parsley (called, CERVEAUX AU BEURRE NOIR). FRIED BRAINS BREADED, TARTAR SAUCE The brains blanched, trimmed, and masked with Tartar sauce, then breaded and fried; served with Tartar sauce at the ends of the dish, and Parisienne potatoes down the sides. CALF'S BRAINS, SAUCE VINAIGRETTE The brains blanched, trimmed, and boiled till done in white stock, served with Vinaigrette CHOKES The brains prepared and cooked the same way as given for "braised brains with stuffed tomatoes"; when done, the brains cut in slices, mixed with the ve'loute' sauce, filled into paste croustades; served garnished with artichoke bottoms spread with " brain force- meat " and filled with small pieces of glazed calf's tongue. BROCHETTE OF CALF'S BRAINS See brochette dishes. BRAINS WITH RICE. TURKISH STYLE- Cold cooked brains worked into a creamy paste with cream, seasoned with salt, pepper, lemon juice and nutmeg; the rice boiled in white stock THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 25 with salt, butter, pepper and cinnamon; served, boiled beef and form a part of many garnitures. the rice in small molds, turned out onto the BRUSSELS SPROUTS BOILED As a veg- dish, and masked over with brains, sprinkled etable, trimmed, thoroughly washed, thrown with finely chopped parsley or chervil. into boiling water containing salt and a small BRAIN PATTIES OR VOL-AU-VENTS piece of common washing soda, boiled tifl ten- Cold cooked brains cut in small dice with der with the saucepan lid OFF about fifteen mushrooms, made hot in Supreme sauce, filled minutes, then turned into a colander, drained, into patty shells, cover placed on and served. tossed with a little melted butter and served. SAVORY OMELET OF CALF'S BRAINS BRUSSELS SPROUTS SAUTEES Prepared, The brains prepared as in the preceding, the boiled and drained as in the preceding, then omelet mixture made of beaten eggs, finely cut placed in a sautoir with butter and lightly chives, parsley, salt, pepper and nutmeg, the fried, seasoned with salt and pepper; served omelet formed, enclosing some of the mixture; either as a garnish or vegetable, served with more of the brains in sauce poured BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH PARSLEY around. BUTTER Same as the preceding, but served CALF'S BRAINS, PARSLEY SAUCE The with MSitre D'H6tel butter poured over them. brains blanched, trimmed, and boiled till done BRUSSELS SPROUTS IN CREAM Prepared in white stock; served on a slice of toast, pars- an d cooked the same as for "boiled" above, ley sauce poured over the brains and garnished then reheated in a good reduced cream (not with Hollandaise potatoes. cream sauce); served as a vegetable. BRAIN KROMESKIES, MADERIA SAUCE- OMELET WITH BRUSSELS SPROUTS- Slices of cold cooked brains dipped in glaze, The above sprouts in creanii enclosed in a encircled with a very thin strip of cold boiled ' savory omelet; served garnished with some of bacon, pinned with a toothpick, dipped in bat- the sprou ts around the omelet and the cream ter and fried, the toothpick removed; served poured over them, with madeira sauce poured around. PUREE OF BRUSSELS SPROUTS The BROILED BRAINS WITH PARSLEY BUT- sprouts prep ared as for " brussels sprouts TER- The brains blanched, trimmed and cut saut ^ e s"; after sautdeing they are rubbed in slices, seasoned, broiled; served on toast through a fine sieve, mixed with egg yolks and with Maitre D'Hfitel butter poured over them butter sea soned with salt and pepper; used as and garnished with Julienne potatoes. a garn i sh O r in a soup; if in soup, as follows: BRAISE AND BRAISING A term applied to the stoc k oi good veal or chicken, seasoned foods that are cooked by a top and bottom heat. with salt pork and vegetables, thickened lightly The pot or braiser has a cover that fits tightly with roux stra i n ed, the puree then worked into and a receptacle to hold lighted charcoal or it Served wlth small toast . coke, so that the heat descends on top of the BUCK The male deer. For dishes of Buck see foods. The general way of the average estab- "venison." lishment, however, who, as a rule, are not sup- BUCKWHEAT A meal ground from the seeds plied with a braiser, is to take a shallow sauce- o f buckwheat, principally used in culinary pan or sautoir, into which is placed the foods, forms for making batter cakes. For recipes together with onion, carrot, parsley, bay leaves see heading of "batter." and whole cloves (and according to the food, BUISSON A form resembling a bush; may be with other accessories, but the five mentioned made by taking two circular pieces of wood spices and vegetables are always included in a one-half the diameter of the other, used for top braise) and moistened with stock or sauces, as and bottom, then nailing strips of laths **i de- the recipe may require; the cover of the sautoir sired height, about half an inch apart, screwing is then put on and placed in the oven, so that small hooks into the laths, the spaces between it gives an even heat, top, bottom and sides. filled up with bunches of parsley and boiled When the foods are cooked to requirement they crayfish or lobsters hanging by the tails from are taken up and the remaining liquor is called the hooks. BRAISE. Braising, besides imparting delicate BUTTER Takes a very prominent part in cul- flavors to the foods thus cooked, is also an ex- inary matters, forms some special butters used ceptional good way of making tough meats for garnishing and scarcely enters at all into tender, as the toughest parts of beef can be what are now known as made into fine entries by braising them. See BUTTER CAKES Composed of ten potmus cf braised dishes under heading of " BEEF." flour, one ounce of soda, one ounce of salt BRUNOISE Name given to a consomme" with mixed together dry, then moistened with three small cut vegetables. See "consomme." egg yolks, two ounces of melted butter and two BRUSSELS SPROUTS- -Called (CHOUX DE quarts of buttermilk; this is mixed and well BRUXELLES) are small sprouts thatgiowon broken, then is added three quarts of butter- the stalks of cabbages. They are very green milk and one quart of sweet milk, this brings and about the size of large olives when trimmed. it to the consistency of biscuit dough; spread They make an excellent accompaniment to out on table, let rest half an hour, then rolled 26 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. out, let rest another half hour; again rolled out, adulterated with wheat, pea, potato flours, cut out with biscuit cutter, allowed to raise or chalk, potato starch, and variously colored with proof and baked on a griddle. yellow chrome, carrot juice, saffron, alkanet, ANCHOVY BUTTER Two parts of butter to marigold flowers and celandine juice, one part of anchovy essence, thoroughly mixed BUTTERINE OR MARGARINE Is a prepara- with a little grated Parmesan cheese and seas- tion of animal fats, made by working the fats oned with nutmeg, red pepper and a dash of at the natural heat of the animal, then pressing lemon juice. it by hydraulic pressure, the oil thus obtained CRAYFISH BUTTER Crayfish shells and is then churned with diluted milk or water. claws slowly dried in the oven with a little BUTTER BALL DUCK A small wild duck of lobster coral, pounded to a paste, then put with American origin. For receipes see " duck." butter and simmered for a few minutes, rubbed CABBAGE As sold in our markets are of three through a fine sieve into cold water, then gath- colors, white, green and red; appreciated by ered for use. the average guest in any of the following forms: LOBSTER BUTTER The head and coral of BOILED CABBAGE If young require about boiled lobster with its equal weight of butter fifteen minutes, if old twenty to thirty minutes pounded to a paste with a dash of anchovy are requ ired for boiling. They should be cut essence and a little dry mustard, then rubbed in qua rters, the stalks removed, and then the through a fine sieve; gathered for use. leaves be separated. It is quite a common MONTPELIER BUTTER Blanched water- thmg for the cooks to boil them simply ia cress, chervil, tarragon and parsley, with hard quarters without separating the leaves; not boiled egg yolks, a few anchovies, gherkins, only is this a dirty way> but se i dom is the inner capers and a clove of garlic are pounded to a part done till the outer i eaves are cooked too paste with their equal weight f butter, a little much and ren dered tasteless. After the leaves tarragon vinegar and lemon juice; when are separated they should be soaked in cold smooth, rubbed through a fine sieve and gath- water to which is added salt; i this precaut i n ered for use. is neglected slugs and various small insects may MAITRE D'HOTEL BUTTER To each cup be retained in the leaves. When thoroughly of melted butter is added a large spoonful of was hed put to boil in boiling salted water with chopped parsley, juice of two lemons, seasoned a small piece o{ common washing soda; cook with salt, red pepper and nutmeg. them with the saucep an lid OFF. As the smell PEPPER BUTTER Three medium sized green of boiling cabbage of ten reaches the guests- peppers pounded to a paste with one pound of rooms over the kitchen, a piece of stale bread butter, then rubbed through a fine sieve and crust or charcoal tied in a piece of muslin gathered for use. boiled with the cabbage, will be found to obvi- RAVIGOTE BUTTER Blanched chives, pars- ate the smell When done they should be ley, tarragon and shallots, pounded to a paste turned into a colander and the water pressed with butter, lemon juice and a dash of anchovy cut> then sea soned with salt, pepper and but- essence, then rubbed through a fine sieve and ter The too common way of sending cabbage gathered for use. to the tab i e fl oat i n g in the water it was boiled GARLIC BUTTER A few cloves of garlic are in cannot be condemned too strongly. pounded to a paste with olive oil and butter; BAKED CABBAGE WITH HAM -Fresh when smooth, rubbed through a fine sieve; boiled cabbage with the water pressed ontf gathered for use. ixed ith drawn b tt laced j baki HORSERADISH BUTTER-Four ounces of ink , ed wjth grated P cheese and ham g fine grated horseradish to each pound of butter baked> seryed wkh & slice Q roast ham Qn t pounded to a paste, then rubbed through a STEWED C ABBAGE-Fresh boiled and pressed sieve and gathered for use. Many people like . , , , . , this on broiled steaks instead of Mditre D'H6td C f> ba f Cut fine ' then sau teed in butter, sur- b plus butter poured off, covered with cream SHRIMP BUTTER-Equal weight of shrimp sauce - simmered for a few minutes and served, meat (canned or fresh), pounded to a paste with CREAMED CABBAGE Coarsely shred cab- butter, then rubbed through a sieve and gath- bage, thoroughly washed, boiled, drained, then ered for use. mixed with cream sauce. DRAWN BUTTER Half a pound of clear STUFFED CABBAGE Whole cabbage par- melted butter, put on fire in a saucepan with boiled, the heart removed, its place filled with two ounces of flour, mixed together, pint of a stuffing of finely chopped cooked meat and boiling water stirred into it, simmered for a sausage meat mixed together, the aperture minute, then ready for use. covered with a slice of salt pork, tied, placed BUTTER ADULTERATIONS Although on in a saucepan with white stock and a little account of the strict pure food laws are rare, sherry wine, cover put on, and simmered till still country butter as is often to be purchased done ; served with a good brown gravy poured by the steward na th open market is sometimes around. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 27 BRAISED CABBAGE Cabbage cut in halves, with fried or boiled sausages on top, and a thoroughly picked over and washed, boiled not brown gravy poured around, quite done, taken up and drained, the stalk COLESLAW Finely shred cabbage mixed with then removed and the two halves put together pepper, salt, sugar, oil and vinegar; also the and tied, resembling the whole cabbage, braised plain shred cabbage served as an adjunct to with white stock for an hour, then taken up, fried or stewed oysters. drained ; served as a vegetable or cut in shapes CABBAGE SALAD Finely shred cabbage, some to be used as a garniture. bacon cut in dice and fried ; while still in the FRIED CABBAGE WITH BACON Fresh pan, equal parts of water and vinegar, with a boiled, pressed, and seasoned cabbage cut fine, seasoning of salt and pepper added to it, boiled, fried in bacon fat ; served with a slice of boiled cooled, then mixed with the cabbage. bacon on top. RED CABBAGE SALAD The cabbage finely CABBAGE TIMBALES Cabbage prepared and washed, drained, then covered with vinegar, cooked the same as for "boiled cabbage"; then dredged with salt and pepper and steeped for a well pressed, finely chopped and mixed with few hours, then drained and mixed with French lightly fried minced onion, put in a safitoir with dressing; served garnished with shred celery a little butter and simmered with the lid on for in mayonnaise. fifteen minutes, then allowed to cool; while HOT SLAW Finely shred cabbage washed cooling, equal parts of sausage meat and fresh and drained, put in saucepan with butter, bread crumbs with a few beaten eggs and lid put on and simmered till nearly done, chopped parsley are thoroughly mixed together; water, vinegar, salt, pepper, and a little sugar the timbale molds are then buttered, a piece of then added, and finish cooking till tender ; bacon put in, the sides lined with blanched finished by working in some beaten eggs till cabbage leaves, the cabbage and stuffing then smooth, yellow and creamy, filled in the molds in alternate layers till full, PICKLED CABBAGE Finely shred red cabbage another piece of bacon put on the top, the tim- thoroughly dredged with salt and placed in large bales then baked in a moderate oven for about colander or sieve to drain for several hours, an hour, the bacon removed, cabbage turned then washed, drained, and packed in jars with out and the inner piece of bacon removed ; a few whole peppers, bay leaves and a little served with a good brown gravy poured over thyme, the jar then filled up with white wine and around. vinegar containing beet juice (or a boiled beet BAKED CABBAGE WITH CHEESE Fresh ma y be put in with the cabbage), cover of jar boiled and pressed cabbage seasoned with salt, pu t O n, kept in a cold place ; ready for use in pepper and butter, arranged in layers in baking about a month. pan, each layer sprinkled with grated cheese, PICKLED CABBAGE Two gallons of finely top layer with grated cheese and bread crumbs chopped cabbage, one pound of chopped onions, mixed, sprinkled with butter, baked and served half pound each of red and green peppers cut (called Cabbage au Gratin). in shreds, mixed together, with one pound of PAUPIETTES OF CABBAGE Blanched cab- salt, placed in a crock and stood over night; bage leaves, taken about four thick, the outer then taken out, put in colander and well pres- one being the largest, the inner one spread with S ed; then put in crock in layers, and on each sausage meat mixed with boiled rice, shallots, layer sprinkle mustard seeds and a few cloves chopped parsley and chives, then rolled up and till all in, covered with cider vinegar; when tied, arranged in a sautoir till full, little broth vinegar sinks, the next day, fill it up so that added, cover put on and simmered till done ; the cabbage is covered; ready for use in two served with brown gravy or as a garniture. days. BOILED CABBAGE, GERMAN STYLE The SAUERKRAUT This is finely shred cabbage cabbage boiled and pressed, chopped, then packed in barrels in layers with salt and allowed mixed with small pieces of boiled bacon and to sour. It is a nasty smelling troublesome Allemande sauce. thing to attend to in hotel life, and can really CABBAGE WITH EGGS Fresh boiled and be bought better and cheaper than by home pressed cabbage finely chopped, placed in a preparation. When to be cooked, it is thor- sautoir with a little drawn butter and vinegar, oughly washed and slowly boiled for two or stirred over a quick fire for a few minutes till three hours with carrot, onion stuck with clove? smooth and creamy; served garnished with and a piece of ham or bacon. If to be served quartered hard boiled eggs and sprinkled with with frankfurters, or sausages, they are boiled finely chopped eggs. in it. STEWED RED CABBAGE WITH SAUSAGES CAFE Pronounced KAFFAY. The name used Shred the cabbage as for cold slaw, wash, to signify a restaurant or place where coffee is drain, place it in a saucepan with butter and to be obtained. It is the French word for simmer it with the lid on for half an hour, then coffee, often seen on the bill of fare as "cafe" put in some slices of salt pork and white stock noir" which means black coffee or strong coffee, and cook till done ; take up and drain ; serve CASES Are fanciful shaped pieces of paper a8 THE cULINARY HANDBOOK. made to noia and serve delicate foods; also with minced truffle peelings and parsley, gar- made , by the cook of rice, potatoes, turnips, nished with saut^ed oysJers and the mushrooms, etc.; most of ten seen on the bill of fare as EN BAKED CALF'S HEAD, SAUCE MAINTE- CAISSE. NON Calf's head meat cut in slices, dipped CAILLES French name for "quails;" when in D'Uxelles sauce, then in cracker crumbs, spoken the two ELLS are silent. then breaded and arranged in a buttered baking CALIPEE AND CALIPASH The first is the pan, brushed over with butter, baked till brown, name given to the meat attached to the lower, served with a Maintenon sauce poured over, and the last to the meat attached to upper shells "See sauces." of a turtle. CALF'S HEAD WITH BACON AND PARS- CALF Is the name given to parts of the young LEY SAUCE Calf's head meat cut in slices of the cow (in a culinary way) such as the head, and made hot in velout sauce containing feet, liver, tail, heart, brains, kidneys and chopped parsley; served with some of the sauce sweetbreads; the other parts or meat is called poured over, and garnished with two thin slices veal, for recipes of which see "Veal". of boiled bacon or pork. CALF'S HEAD The head as purchased should CALF'S HEAD AND TONGUE, PIQUANTE be left entire with simply the hair cleaned off, SAUCE Slices of calf's head meat made hot and, if in the country towns or resorts, the cook in piquante sauce; served with some of the has to clean it himself, plunge it into boiling sauce poured over, decorated with scallops of water containing common washing soda, let it the tongue, and garnished with pieces of the remain for a few minutes, then scrape it per- brain breaded and fried. fectly clean with a fish sealer or curry-comb, CALF'S HEAD WITH FINANCIERE RA- then singe it like poultry; the head is then split GOUT Slices of calf's head meat arranged in in halves, the brains removed, washed, put to a safitoir with carrot, onion, parsley, bay leaves boil in cold water with salt and vegetables, and cloves, moistened with consomm6 and scum removed as it rises, simmered till tender, sherry wine, quickly braised for an hour, meat taken up and put into a pan of cold water, and taken up, the braise strained, skimmed and re- all bones removed which come away easily; duced to a glaze, then strained over the meat; then skin the roof of the mouth, and put the served with a fancy crouton at ends of the dish, head and tongue between two boards with a and garnished with cocks-combs and kernels, weight on top, and press till cold. The stock pieces of sweetbreads, mushrooms and small which the head was boiled in is good to use for quenelles made hot in Madeira sauce, soups and white sauces. The pressed meat will CALF'S HEAD, SAUCE ITALIENNE Calf's be called "calf's head meat" for the following head meat in slices, made hot in brown Italian recipes: sauce; served with the sauce poured over, and CALF'S HEAD BAKED WITH CHIPOLATA garnished with fancy potatoes. GARNISH Calf's head meat rut in portions, CALF'S HEAD AND BRAINS, MUSHROOM seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg and pow- SAUCE Slices of calf's head meat made hot dered thyme, arranged in baking pan with smal 1 j n mushroom sauce; served with a slice of onions, mushrooms, small veal sausages, pieces boiled brains on top, the brains decorated with of ham and chicken, blanched and peeled chest- slices of green pickles, garnished with button nuts, and small balls of carrots and turnips, the mushrooms, and sauce poured around, whole covered with a rich brown sauce, baked CALF'S HEAD, TURTLE STYLE Calf's head till the garnish is done and the head glazy; me at cut in squares, made hot with stoned served with a little of the sauce poured over olives, button mushrooms, small forcemeat and surrounded with the garnish. balls, and hard boiled yolks of eggs in equal CALF'S HEAD BAKED, ENGLISH STYLE par ts of tomato and madeira sauces; served, Calf's head meat cut in slices, arranged in bak- surrounded with the garnish, ing pan with a seasoning of salt, pepper, nut- CALF'S HEAD, SAUCE POULETTE Slices meg, an onion stuck with cloves, covered with o f calf's head meat made hot in poulette sauce; a white sauce made from the stock the head served garnished with balls of potatoes sprinkled was boiled in, baked for half an hour; served w ith parsley and button mushrooms. with some of the sauce poured over, sprinkled BRAISED CALF'S HEAD WITH VEAL with parsley and garnished with quenelles of QUENELLES The meat prepared and brain forcemeat and quartered eggs. braised the same as given for "with financiere CALF'S HEAD BAKED. GERMAN STYLE garnish"; served dipped in the glaze, and gar- Calf's head meat cut in portion pieces, seasoned, nished with small quenelles of veal dipped in arranged in pan with mushrooms, pieces of Ravigote sauce alternately with scallops of the sweetbreads, and the tongue cut in thin slices, tongue. covered with a sauce Bourgignotte and a sprink- CALF'S HEAD FRIED, TOMATO SAUCE ling of Parmesan cheese, baked half an hour; Calf's head meat seasoned with salt, pepper served with some of the sauce poured over, and nutmeg, dipped in a mixture of four beaten decorated with the slices of tongue, sprinkled eggs, yolks of two hard boiled eggs rubbed THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 29 through a sieve or grater, and half a cup of some small quenelles of brain forcemeat added melted butter, then breaded with grated fresh to the soup and served. crumbs, or dipped in batter and fried; served CALF'S HEAD SOUP, PORTUGUESE STYLE with tomato sauce poured under. CALF'S HEAD AND BRAINS, SAUCE POIV- RADE Prepared and fried same as the pre- ceding in crumbs, Poivrade sauce poured under, and the ends of dish garnished with the brains cut small and mixed in a thick Ravigote sauce. FRICASSEE OF CALF'S HEAD WITH The stock the head was boiled in strained into a good veal stock, m which is boiled a jardiniere of vegetables, some tomatoes and barley, thickened with roux ; when nearly done, the calf's head meat and tongue with a little calf's liver blanched, all cut in small squares, added to the soup and served. VEGETABLES- Calf's head meat cut in slices MOCK TURTLE SOUP. THICK Sliced car- with the tongue, made hot in a rich Allemande sauce, served with the sauce poured over and garnished with balls of carrot, turnip, potatoes and green peas that have been boiled separately in consomme' with a little sugar. BOILED CALF'S HEAD, SAUCE VINAI- GRETTE The meat and tongue cut in slices, made hot in white stock; served alternately with vinaigrette sauce poured over and gar- nished with Hollandaise potatoes. CALF'S HEAD WITH OLIVES, TOMATO SAUCE Slices of calf's head meat simmered in tomato sauce; served with it, and garnished with stoned olives that have been blanched in consomme 1 . STUFFED CALF'S HEAD, SAUCE PAPI- LOTTE Calf's head meat cut in portion pieces diamond shape, thickly spread with brain force- meat (see brains), arranged in a buttered baking pan, sprinkled with fresh bread crumbs and butter, slightly moistened with stock, baked slowly till brown; served with a sauce Papilotte poured around the base. RAGOUT OF CALF'S HEAD AND TONGUE Same as "calf's head turtle style," adding the tongue cut in scallops, and garnishing the ends of the dish with croutons. CALF'S HEAD CURRIED WITH RICE- Slices of the meat made hot in a good curry sauce made either of the stock the head was bo,led m or veal, or chicken stock, a border of dry boiled nee arranged as a border on the dish, with the curried meat m the center. OMELET WITH CALF'S HEAD- - Four-fifths rots, turnips, onions and shallots saut^ed in butter, then put in a sauce pan with some browned veal and beef bones, a little vinegar, sweet basil, thyme, bay leaves, mace and whole cloves, fill up with stock, boil up, skimmed, then add a calf's head and boil it till tender ; take it out when done, put it in cold water and remove the bones ; thicken the stock with roux ; into the soup tureen put the calf's head cut up small, some yolks of hard boiled eggs, slices of the white of egg, small quenelles of brain force- meat, salt, pepper, lemon juice, chopped pars- ley and sherry wine, then strain the thickened stock into it and serve. CLEAR MOCK TURTLE A consomme 1 made of veal and chicken stock in which has been boiled a calf's head and feet, the consomme 1 flavored with essence of anchovies, sweet basil, mushroom catsup, a little curry powder and lemon peel ; serve with small quenelles of brain forcemeat, the calf's head cut in dice, and finish with a little brandy. CALF'S EARS BOILED, SAUCE VILLEROI The ears cut off close to the head before the head is s P Ht for boiling, thoroughly washed, and boiled in white stock with vegetables and s P ices - takea U P '- served wilh Vatord sauce p TOMATO SAUCE - Thg earg ^.^ ag a theQ breaded and ^ ^ ag much a3 sible served J^ tomatQ s ^ e d arQund and ished with slices o broiled tomatoes th&t faave ^ inkled with cheese while broiling. of beaten eggs, one-fifth of cold consomme, and CALF'S EARS STUFFED, SAUCE BORDE- the brains of the head cleaned, beaten to a pulp, little chopped parsley, salt, pepper and nutmeg, all mixed together ; small squares of catf's head meat made hot in madeira sauce ; the omelet mixture fried in form, enclosing some of the meat in sauce, turned on to the LAISE The ears boiled not quite done, taken up> stuffed with a veal stuffing, smoothing the f ace from the opening to the tip, arranged in a sautoir, moistened with consommee" and sim- mered till done ; served with Bordelaise sauce poured over and around. dish, slit made in the top of the omelet, more RAGOUT OF CALF'S EARS IN CROUSTADES meat put in ; served with some of the meat and sauce poured around. CALF'S HEAD SOUP WITH QUENELLES The stock the head was boiled in and an equal quantity of chicken stock mixed, rice boiled in it till soft, then all rubbed through a pure"e sieve, Calf's ears boiled till tender, cut in small squares, saute'ed in butter with mushrooms, stoned olives, pieces of brains and tongue, but the ears predominating ; when colored, surplus butter drained off, moistened with madeira sauce, filled into paste croustades and served. the pure"e thus obtained mixed with an equal CALF'S EARS, TURTLE STYLE The ears quantity of supreme sauce and brought to the bolied and left whole, then made hot with whole- boil, calf's head meat in small squares, and stoned olives, button mushrooms, small force- THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. meat balls of the brains, and hard-boiled yolks of eggs in equal parts of tomato and madeira sauces ; served, the yolk of egg in the opening of the ear, and surrounded with the garnish. CALF'S EARS WITH TRUFFLES, SAUCE TRIANON The ears boiled and left whole, the part just below the tip studded with pieces of diamond-shaped truffle and the opening of the ear with a whole glazed truffle; arranged in a sautoir with a very little consomme\ the ears brushed over with glaze, made hot, and served with a Trianon sauce poured around. CALF'S BRAINS For the several receipes of which see heading of "brains." CALF'S FEET The hoof is split with a knife, then treated the same as calf's head; when done, the bones removed, and the meat pressed between boards. FRICASSEE OF CALF'S FEET -The cold meat cut in neat shaped pieces, made hot in Pascaline sauce ; served garnished with button mushroons and small Victoria potatoes. CALF'S FEET BOILED, POIVRADE SAUCE Neatly trimmed pieces of the cjld meat made hot in white stock ; served with Poivrade sauce poured over and garnished with fancy croutons. FRIED CALF'S FEET IN BATTER, ITALIAN SAUCE Cold cooked feet, seasoned with salt, pepper and lemon juice, dipped in plain batter. fried; served with brown Italian sauce poured ind garnished whh SmaU P tat cTTTAvrwn CAiir-TT T?T?MnTT * c, STEAMED SAUCE REMOU- LADE-Shces of the cold meat steamed; served with Remoulade sauce poured over and garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. CALF'S FEET WITH MUSHROOMS, SAUCE POULETTE- Squares of cold meat made hot in Poulette sauce ; served with the sauce, and garnished with button mushrooms that have been lightly fried in butter. CROUSTADES OF CALF'S FEET-Small squares of the cold meat made hot in a sauce prepared from the stock they were boiled in. brought to a simmer, then is added some finely minced yolks of eggs, a little dry mustard, salt. red pepper, white wine and lemon juice, quickly reduced, filled into paste croustades and served. CALF'S FEET CREPINETTES, SAUCE PROVENCALE The cold meat of the feet cut up small, seasoned with salt, pepper, lemon juice and nutmeg, mixed with an equal quantity of veal or pork sausage meat, made into shapes of small Hamburg steaks, broiled ; served with Provencale sauce poured around. CALF'S FEET JELLY Raw cleaned calf's feet chopped up, put to boil in cold water with a stick of cinnamon and the rind of a lemon, boiled till soft, and the liquor well reduced, strain, allowed to get cold, then all fat and skimmings removed, the liquor which should nave become like jelly then put back into a bright kettle with some beaten whites of eggs, sugar to taste, little white wine and lemon juice, brought slowly to the boil without stir- ring, then allowed to simmer till the coagula- tion turns a grey color, about twenty minutes, then strained and restrained through a jelly bag; when nearly cool, filled into glasses or molds, and served when set and cold. CALF'S HEART STUFFED, MADEIRA SAUCE The hearts soaked and the veins cut away, put in boiling water and simmered for ten minutes, then refreshed in cold water, taken up and wiped dry, the cavity made and filled with a poultry stuffing, crust of bread tied over the opening to keep the stuffing in, roasted and basted with gravy till done ; served split in halves, dressing side up, with Madeira sauce poured around and garnished with croutons. CALF'S HEART STUFFED AND BRAISED -Prepare, and stuffed as above, but the opening covered and tied with a slice of salt pork ; arranged in a sautoir with slices of carrot, onions, parsley, bay leaves and whole cloves, moistened with stock, braised and basted till tender, taken up, the braise strained, skimmed and added to a Madeira sauce, reduced to a half g i aze . t ^ e heart served cut in halves with some of the glaze pou red round the edges, and gar- nished with Parisienne potatoes. CALF>S HEART LARDED, SAUCE ANDA- L OUSE-The top of the heart larded with strips of seasoned larding pork, then prepared and stuffed - arranged in a sautoir and braised as di recei . servedi the whole ? ^ Andalusian sauce ' d ? J ^ ^ ^ endg ^ & , , . maced ' ne of vegetables. <*LFS KIDNEYS LARDED MADEIRA SAUCE-The kidneys blanched for a few mm- utes ' then *hened in cold water and after- wards wi P ed drv - larded th seas ned st "P of P ork ' ^ranged in a sautoir with a dash of tarra 8 on vinegar, powdered mixed herbs.melted butter and consomme, quickly braised and g laz u ed : f rved on a bed of mashed P tatoes Wlth Madeira sauce P oured around - BROCHETTE OF CALF'S KIDNEYS -See receipe under head of " Brochette." CALF'S KIDNEYS BROILED, PARSLEY BUTTER The kidneys blanched and cooled, then cut in two lengthwise, seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped in melted butter, rolled in fresh bread crumbs, broiled till done ; served on toast with Maitre D'Hotel butter poured over them, and garnished with cress and lemon. CALF'S KIDNEYS SAUTES WITH MUSH- ROOMS The kidneys lightly blanched and refreshed, cut in small slices, saut^ed with minced onion and sliced button mushrooms; when done, sprinkled with parsley, salt, pepper and a dash of tarragon vinegar, moistened with a little Colbert sauce and served on garnished with fancy croutons. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 3 PATTIES OF CALF'S KIDNEYS Puff paste fat in a sautoir, liver cut small and put with the patty shells filled with the preceding, saute, onions and tossed over a quick fire till set, su- but having the kidneys cut in very small dice. perfluous fat then poured off, flour stirred in, RAGOUT OF CALF'S KIDNEYS Kidneys moistened with stock, seasoned with salt and cut about the same size as button mushrooms, pepper, simmered till tender ; served garnished sauteed in butter with mushrooms and minced with a border of Victoria potatoes, shallots with a clove of garlic ; when browned, BRAISED CALF'S LIVER WITH VEGE- put into a Bordelaise sauce and simmered for TABLES The liver trimmed from veins, a few minutes ; served, a border of potato larded with seasoned strips of bacon, placed in croquette mixture forced through a fancy tube, a sautoir with some bacon trimmings, carrot, sprinkled with chopped parsley, and the ragout onion, parsley, bay leaves and whole cloves, in the center. moistened with consomme 1 and sherry wine, CALF'S KIDNEYS CROQUETTES WITH covered with a sheet of buttered paper, lid put PEAS Cold braised kidneys (see Calf's Kid- on, braised till tender, taken up, sauce added neys Larded, Madeira Sauce), minced and to the braise, boiled up, strained and skimmed ; seasoned, made hot in a thick Madeira sauce, the liver served in slices and garnished with turned into a pan to cool, smoothed with a knife, balls of carrot, turnip and small glazed onions, covered with a buttered paper ; when cold, cut CALF'S LIVER FRIED WITH FINE HERBS in pieces, formed into croquettes of the desired Slices of the liver seasoned with salt and shape, breaded, fried, and served with green pepper, rolled in flour, fried in bacon fat with peas at the ends of the dish and Madeira sauce minced chives and shallots, taken up, grease poured around, the croquettes decorated with a poured off, fines-herbes sauce added to the frill. pan, boiled up, served with the liver. CALF'S KIDNEYS FRIED, SAUCE COLBERT CALF'S LIVER BROILED, ITALIAN SAUCE The kidneys split lengthwise and seasoned Slices of liver seasoned with salt and pepper, with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, then fried rolled in flour, dipped in melted butter, broiled in butter ; served on toast with Colbert sauce till done ; served with brown Italian sauce poured over ; garnished with croutons. poured around and garnished with chip potatoes. CALF'S KIDNEYS IN CROUSTADES Broiled SCALLOPS OF CALF'S LIVER WITH kidneys and cold boiled ham both cut into small MUSHROOMS Small pieces of liver seasoned dice; minced mushrooms fried in butter, then and fried in bacon fat, taken up and put into a drained and added to the meats with a little brown Italian sauce, simmered for a few min- chopped parsley, all mixed, moistened with utes, served with a border of fried button mush- Bechamel sauce, made hot, filled into croustades rooms, and served. CALF'S LIVER AND BACON WITH SPINACH CALF'S KIDNEY OMELET The mixture The liver larded and braised, the bacon boiled given for "Patties of Calf's Kidneys," the tender, the spinach boiled in the bacon water, omelet made of beaten eggs, chopped chives, drained, pressed, chopped fine and seasoned parsley, salt, pepper and nutmeg, enclosing with salt and pepper ; served, the spinach as a some of the kidneys, and served with more of bed, the liver and bacon in slices alternately on the meat in sauce poured around. top, with some of the gravy from the braising CALF'S LIVER WITH CRISPED ONIONS poured around. The liver trimmed from veins, larded through BROCHETTE OF CALF'S LIVER WITH with seasoned strips of bacon, placed in a BACON See recipe under heading of sautoir with bacon trimmings, little consomme "Brochette." and sherry wine, cover put on, and roasted till CALF'S LIVER WITH SMOTHERED done and glazy, liver taken up, brown sauce ONIONS The liver in slices, seasoned, floured added to the residue of the sautoir, boiled, an( j fried, the onions sliced and steamed for a skimmed and strained, liver served in slices f ew minutes, then put in a sautoir with bacon with the gravy and garnished with rings of f a t an d smothered a light brown over a quick oniorrs that have been dipped in milk, rolled in fj re ; the liver served garnished with the onions, flour and fried in hot fat. LIVER CHEESE, ITALIAN STYLE Calf's CALF'S LIVER SAUTE WITH BACON liver four-fifths, salt pork one-fifth, finely Slices of liver and bacon, the bacon fried first, minced with a few shallots, seasoned with salt then the liver seasoned and rolled in flour, fried an d pepper, nutmeg, powdered thyme and in bacon fat; when done, flour added to the sherry wine; bread pans lined with thin slices pan, stirred, and moistened with stock, boiled o f bacon, the liver mince filled in, with slices up, strained, skimmed, juice of lemon added ; o f bacon and bay leaves on top, covered with the liver served with some of the gravy and buttered paper and slowly baked till done (about garnished with the bacon. three hours); served either cold in slices, or be- CALf'S LIVER STEWED WITH ONIONS tween bread as sandwiches, or in slices hot, Green spring onions chopped and fried in bacon with Italian sauce poured over. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. LIVER FORCEMEAT BALLS Made the same as "liver cheese" above, but adding some bread crumbs, raw yolks of eggs and chopped parsley; when thoroughly mixed, made into ball.: and poached till done in white stock; served with a Hollandaise sauce. The Germans call this dish "LIVER KLOSSE." TIMBALE OF CALF'S LIVER, PIQUANT SAUCE The "liver cheese" above filled into timbale molds, and steamed or baked till done; served with piquant sauce poured over. CALF'S LIVER QUENELLES IN CRUMBS The "forcemeat" mixture above, shaped like eggs between two spoons, poached, taken up, and rolled in fried bread crumbs; served gar- nished with parsley and lemon, and Allemande sauce served separately. POTTED CALF'S LIVER WITH ASPIC JELLY Slices of liver fried in bacon fat with minced onions and mushrooms, taken up and pounded to a paste with wine, powdered mixed herbs, salt, pepper and nutmeg, then rubbed through a fine sieve with its equal weight of fat bacon; into this puree is then mixed a minced clove of garlic, some ham and bacon fat cut in small dice; when thoroughly incorporatedi filled into bread pans, covered with thick but- tered paper, the filled pans put into roasting pans containing cold water half way up, put in oven and slowly baked till done (about two hours), taken out, allowed to partly cool, then turned out, trimmed; served cold in slices, decorated with aspic jelly. CALF'S TONGUE BRAISED, TOMATO SAUCE The tongues blanched and freshened, then larded with strips of seasoned larding pork, arranged in sautoir with carrot, onion, parsley, bay leaves and whole cloves, moistened with stock, braised and glazed; served in slices cut lengthwise, with tomato sauce. CALF'S TONGUE SAUTE, VINAIGRETTE The tongues blanched, freshened and skinned, then cut lengthwise in slices, saute'ed in butter with minced shallots; served with sauce vinai- grette. CALF'S TONGUE. SAUCE TARTARE The braised tongues above, allowed to become cold; served in slices with tartare sauce, garnished with strips of pickles. CALF'S TONGUE FRIED, SAUCE ROBERT The tongue boiled with vegetables, herbs and spices, skinned, cut lengthwise in slices, bread- ed, fried; served with a Robert sauce poured under. CALF'S TONGUE WITH POTATOES. MUSH- ROOM SAUCE The tongues boiled and skin- ned as in the preceding recipe, then cut in long slices, dipped in glaze, arranged on a bed of mashed potatoes, with mushroom sauce poured around. CALF'S SWEETBREADS BROILED, SAUCE COLBERT The sweetbreads soaked in cold salted water for a few hours, then boiled with a few whole spices, bay leaves, vegetables and a dash of vinegar till tender, taken up, put into cold water and all rough fat and skin removed, then pressed between boards till cold (for the following recipes the above directions will be called "prepared") when cold split in slices, dipped in melted butter, then in seasoned bread crumbs, broiled; served with Colbert sauce poured around. They may also be served with maitre d'hotel butter, and garnished with fancy potatoes. CALF'S SWEETBREADS SAUTES WITH PEAS Prepared sweetbreads split and sauteed in butter; served on a bed of mashed potatoes, with green peas in sauce poured around. CALF'S SWEETBREADS IN CREAM, ON TOAST Prepared sweetbreads cut in slices crosswise, made hot in reduced cream; served on toast, sprinkled with finely chopped parsley, with some of the cream poured around. CALF'S SWEETBREADS FRIED, SAUCE PERIGUEUX Prepared sweetbreads split, seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, dipped in flour, then in beaten eggs, fried a golden color; served with Perigueux sauce, and gar- nished with fancy croutons. CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH BROWN BUTTER Prepared sweetbreads split, sea- soned with salt, pepper and powdered herbs rolled in flour, fried in butter; served with brown butter, made by melting butter to the frothing point, then adding lemon juice and chopped parsley; poured over the sweetbreads on hot dish. CALF'S SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES WITH PEAS Prepared sweetbreads cut into small dice, mixed with half the amount of grated boiled ham, a few minced saute'ed shall jts and mushrooms, thoroughly heated in a thick V6- loute 1 sauce, seasoned with lemon juice and nutmeg, poured into a buttered shallow pan, smoothed with a knife, covered with buttered paper; when cold, cut into pieces of an equal size, shaped, breaded, fried, served with green peas in white sauce or half glaze as a border, with frills in the croquettes. RISSOLES OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH VEGETABLES The croquette mix- ture above, when cold, cut out and formed into balls, size of small egg; two sheets ot pufl paste rolled out, the balls put in sections all over one, covered with the other, edges pressed down, then stamped out with a fancy cutter, arranged on a baking sheet, washed over, baked; served garnished with a macedoine ot vegetables in brown sauce. RISSOLETTES are the same as rissoles, but smaller. CALF'S SWEETBREADS IN SHELL The croquette mixture above, filled into buttered scallop shells, sprinkled with grated thread crumbs and melted butter, browned in tne oven THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 3! and served, (called, SWEETBREADS EN COQU1LLE). SCALLOPED CALF'S SWEETBREADS The same as the preceding, with the addition of grated Parmesan cheese mixed with the bread crumbs; served in the shell, (called, SWEET- BREADS EN COQUILLE AU GRATIN). PATTIES OF SCRAMBLED CALF'S SWEET- BREADS Prepared sweetbreads cut into small dice, seasoned with salt, pepper, lemon juice and chopped parsley, mixed into beaten eggs with a little cream, scrambled in butter but kept soft, (best when scrambled to order) filled into hot patty shells and served with a little Ve'loute sauce poured around. CUTLETS OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH VEGETABLES The croquette mix- ture (see Calf's Sweetbread Croquettes with Peas) when cold, cat out and shaped like small lamb chops, with a piece of macaroni to repre- sent the bone, breaded and fried; served with a border of Julienne vegetables mixed into Hol- landaise sauce, (called, SWEETBREAD CUT- LETS a la NIVERNAISE). CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH FINAN- CIERE RAGOUT Prepared sweetbreads split and seasoned with salt, pepper and nut- meg, rolled in flour, sauteed in butter, taken up, kept hot in glaze, served on fancy croutons surrounded with a garnish of cock's combs and kernels, button mushrooms, small quenelles and truffles, all made hot in a rich Madeira sauce, (called SWEETBREAD SAUTE a la FINAN- CIERS). CALF'S SWEETBREADS IN CASES Pre- pared sweetbreads cut in small dice, seasoned with salt and red pepper, made hot in Veloute sauce, filled into paper cases, sprinkled with fresh bread crumbs and melted butter, arranged on a baking sheet and very quickly browned in the oven or with a salamander and served. VOL-AU-VENT OF SWEETBREADS AND MUSHROOMS The preceding with the addi- tion of an equal quantity of cut and sauteed mushrooms, filled into a good sized puff paste patty shell with a cover placed on and served. TIMBALE OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS Prepared sweetbreads larded and braised, al- lowed to become cold, then cut in thin slices. A rich forcemeat of cooked chicken and mush- rooms well seasoned, the sweetbreads and force- meat filled into timbale molds in alternate layers; when full, moistened with the reduced and strained braise, the opening covered with the same short paste as the molds are lined with, baked, turned out; served with a Madeira sauce containing a little chopped parsley and some mushroom tops, poured over and around. BOUCHEES OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS For recipe see heading of "Bouchees". BROCHETTE OR ATTEREAUX OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS For recipe see "Brochette" BRAISED CALF'S SWEETBREADS, GAR- NISHED Prepared sweetbreads larded with seasoned strips of bacon, then arranged in a sautoir on a bed of thinly sliced vegetables, with bay leaves and one or two cloves, covered with thin slices of bacon, moistened with stock, covered with buttered paper, lid put on and braised quickly for half an hour with frequent basting; when done, the lid, paper and bacon removed, then put back into the oven to dry the glaze on top of the sweetbreads, taken up, the braise strained and skimmed, then poured to a mixture of diced red tongue, truffles, mush- rooms and chicken breast, little Madeira wine and sauce then added; the sweetbreads served on toast surrounded with the garnish, (called, SWEETBREADS BRAISED a la MONT- GLAS). GLAZED CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH FRENCH BEANS Prepared sweetbreads larded and braised as in the preceding, the braise strained, skimmed and mixed with green French beans (Haricot Verts), the sweetbreads served surrounded with the beans. CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH DEMI- GLACE Prepared sweetbreads larded and braised as (see Braised Calf's Sweetbreads, Garnished), when done the braise strained over them, reduced with a little Madeira sauce and wine; served on toast rolled in glaze, and gar- nished. CALF'S SWEETBREADS LARDED AND BRAISED, MUSHROOM SAUCE- Same as "Braised Calf's Sweetbreads Garnished", the braise strained into a rich mushroom sauce, the sweetbreads served surrounded with the mush- rooms in sauce. CALF'S SWEETBREADS LARDED, SAUCE TOULOUSE Prepared sweetbreads larded and braised, served with asparagus points at one end, green peas at the other end of the dish, with Toulouse sauce at the sides. BLANQUETTE OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS Slices of prepared sweetbreads made hot in a light colored Allemande sauce, served with it and decorated on the top with slices of truffles. CASSEROLE OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS Slices of prepared sweetbreads and mushrooms made hot in Veloute" sauce, the serving dish con- taining a high border of potato croquette mix- ture glazed and browned, the sweetbreads filled into the centre, sprinkled with minced truffle peelings and served. FRICANDEAU OF SWEETBREADS WITH CHICORY Prepared sweetbreads larded and braised as in "Braised Calf's Sweetbreads, Garnished," when done the braise strained, skimmed, then poured over the sweetbreads and reduced to a glaze ; served on a bed of pure"e of chicory or spinach, with a rich Madeira sauce poured around. CROUSTADE OF CURRIED CALF'S SWEET- BREADS Prepared sweetbreads split and then sliced, made hot in a good curry sauce 34 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. prepared from the stock they were boiled in, bread crumbs, beaten eggs and again bread filled into paste croustade cases, served two crumbs, fried; served with Villeroi sauce poured cases full alternately with small turned-out around, and the ends of dish garnished with molds of dry boiled rice. green peas that have been sauteed in butter CALF'S SWEETBREADS FRIED, MUSH- FRICASSEE OF SWEETBREADS AND ROOM SAUCE Prepared sweetbreads split, seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, rolled in flour, dipped into beaten eggs, fried in hot MUSHROOMS Prepared sweetbreads split and simmered in sauce Albert, served with it, and garnished with button mushrooms that have been lightly fried in butter and sprinkled with chopped parsley. fat, served surrounded with button mushrooms in a Maderia sauce. RAGOUT OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS ON BRAISED SWEETBREADS, SAUCE BEARN- TO AST Prepared sweetbreads split and then AISE Prepared sweetbreads larded and cut in slices, mixed with half the amount of sliced mushrooms, made hot in a Maderia sauce, served piled on toast with the sauce around, garnished with fancy crofltons whose braised (as in Braised Calf's Sweetbreads, Gar- nished); served decorated at the ends and sides with slices of tuffles, and with Bearnaise sauce poured around. ends are dipped in sauce, then in chopped pars- SAUTE OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH ley. SWEETBREADS ANDTRUFFLES IN SHELL Prepared sweetbreads cut in slices, mixed with slices of truffles and mushrooms, made hot in a thick Allemande sauce, filled into scallop shells, sprinkled with bread crumbs and melted butter, browned in the oven or with a salamander, and served. STEWED CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH BAKED TOMATOES Prepared sweetbreads split, rolled in flour, sauteed in butter with minced shallots, strips of green peppers and a crushed clove of garlic ; when browned, equal parts of tomato and Napolitaine sauces added, simmered ten minutes, taken up, sauce strained over them. Served with some of the sauce and garnished with small stuffed and baked toma- toes. KIDNEY BEANS Prepared sweetbreads SWEETBREADS BREADED, SAUCE TAR- split, and made hot in Veloute 1 sauce containing minced shallots, whole mace, pieces of bacon and sweet herbs for half an hour, taken up, a liaison of egg yolks and cream then beaten into the sauce and strained over the sweetbreads ; TARE Prepared sweetbreads split and spread on both sides with tartar sauce, rolled in crumbs, then breaded and fried ; served with Tartar sauce served separately, and garnished with lemon and parsley. served garnished with sauteed kidney beans EPIGRAMME OF SWEETBREADS, SAUCE BECHAMEL Prepared sweetbreads split and trimmed to a cutlet shape, half of them dipped in cooling Bechamel sauce and when cold rolled in bread crumbs, then breaded and fried, the other half made hot in rich white stock, then taken up and dipped in glaze, then coated with Bechamel sauce ; served, one of each, sur- rounded with scallops of red tongue and sliced mushrooms in Bechamel sauce. SCALLOPS OF SWEETBREADS WITH TOULOUSE RAGOUT Prepared sweet- breads cut in slices, then cut circular with large sized column cutter, dipped in cooling Allem- ande sauce, then in bread crumbs, afterwards breaded and fried a golden color in butter; served overlapping each other round the dish, the centre filled with cocks combs and kernels, truffles cut in small squares, the trimmings of the sweetbreads, and button mushrooms all made hot in Allemande sauce. (flageolets) at ends, sauce at the sides. CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH CREAMED MUSHROOMS Prepared sweetbreads cut in slices and sauteed in butter piled on toast; served surrounded with sliced mushrooms boiled down in reduced cream. RAGOUT OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH MORELS Prepared sweetbreads cut in slices and sauteed in butter, then mixed into a rich Madeira sauce ; served on toast, surrounded with sliced morels that have been fried in their own oil. BRAISED CALF'S SWEETBREADS WITH SORREL Prepared sweetbreads larded and braised as in "Braised Calf's Sweetbreads, Gar- nished"; served on a bed of puree of sorrel, with some of the strained and skimmed glaze poured over and around. KROMESKIES OF CALF'S SWEETBREADS The croquette mixture (see Calf's Sweet- SCALLOPS OF SWEETBREADS WITH bread Croquettes with Peas) when cold, cut out and shaped like long corks, then rolled into a thin slice of cold boiled bacon, pinned with a toothpick, dipped into a plain batter and fried, toothpick then removed ; served with a rich ve"lout sauce poured around. CALF'S SWEETBREADS FRIED, SAUCE VILLEROI Prepared sweetbreads split and LARDED coated with cold Villeroi sauce, then rolled in POTATO CROQUETTES The sweetbreads cut and fried as in the preceding recipe, served overlapping each other around the dish, the centre filled with small potato cone-shaped croquettes, the points being dipped in white sauce, then in chopped parsley, with a sauce Poulette around their base. SWEETBREADS WITH TOU- LOUSE RAGOUT Prepared sweetbreads THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 35 larded through from top to bottom with alter- livers sauteed with an onion till tender, then nate strips of red tongue and truffles, so that pounded to a paste with a dash of anchovy es- they resemble a studding ; braised as in sence, salt, red pepper and butter, piled in "Braised Calf's Sweetbreads, Garnished"; pyramid form on fried shapes of bread, smoothed served surrounded with a Toulouse ragout as with a knife and made hot in the oven ; served given in ' ' Scallops of Sweetbreads with Tou- decorated with slices of pimen toes and rings of louse Ragout." red chillies. SWEETBREAD SALAD Slices of prepared CANAPES OF SHRIMPS Fancy shaped slices sweetbread dipped in flour and fried iu butter, of toast spread with shrimp paste and decorated allowed to become cold, shredded lettuce in with coiled shrimps. centre of the dish with cream salad dressing, CANAPES OF POTTED TONGUE Circles sweetbreads masked with mayonnaise arranged of brown bread toast spread with potted tongue around the lettuce, the lettuce decorated with and decorated in lattice form with strips of red alternate slices of radishes and stamped pieces cooked tongue, of pickled beet. INDIAN CANAPES Circles of bread fried in SWEETBREAD SOUP Minced ham and butter, spread first with potted ham, then with onions with prepared sweetbreads and a bunch chutney, strewed with Parmesan cheese, of sweet herbs slowly sauteed in butter for an browned in the oven and served. hour, then flour added to form a paste, this CANAPES OF POTTED HAM Strips of toast then rubbed through a fine sieve, the puree spread with potted ham, then sprinkled with then worked into a good veal or chicken stock, grated ham, decorated with thin slices of green boiled up and skimmed, seasoned with salt, gherkins. pepper, and a little sugar ; served with small SARDINE CANAPES Triangle-shaped pieces croutons browned in the oven (called POTAGE of toast spread with a mixture of equal parts of alaCOMTESSE). boiled egg yolks and sardines pounded to a CAMEMBERT Name of an imported cheese, paste and seasoned with red pepper and lemon put up in round flat boxes like brie. Is in its juice, decorated with a coiled anchovy out of prime when just soft and creamy with an in- oil in the centre. clination to run; served in small quantities CANAPES OF CAVIAR Circles of toast, the with toasted crackers. edges spread with anchovy butter, with an CANAPES A French term literally meaning a onion ring as its base, the ring filled with Rus- " couch," used in a culinary sense as a bed or sian caviar. something to rest savory foods on, usually in OLIVE CANAPES Circles of buttered toast the form of bread or toast covered with minces, with a coiled anchovy on it, and a stuffed olive pastes, etc., then decorated. in the centre of the coil. Also circles of toast ANCHOVY CANAPES Hard boiled eggs and fried in butter, then spread with anchovy paste, anchovies finely minced and spread on buttered minced olives and capers on top. toast. Also, very shallow gem pans lined with CANAPE CHASSEUR Triangle shaped pieces pie paste and baked, then filled when cold with of toast spread with a game forcemeat, the anchovies pounded to a paste with Gruyere edges decorated with another forcemeat of game cheese, inverted on a circle of buttered toast but of different color. and garnished with minced gherkins. Also, a CANAPES OF OYSTERS Strips of toast mixture of chopped anchovies, grated ham, spread with blanched and minced oysters mixed truffles and gherkins mixed and moistened with i to a Hollandaise sauce, sprinkled with parsley salad oil and caper vinegar, then filled into dust. Clams may be treated the same way and very small patty cases ; served garnished with named accordingly, pieces of toast and aspic jelly. SAVORY CANAPES Strips of toast spread CANAPES BERNE, OR SWISS CANAPES with a mixture of grated ham, cheese, cream Triangle-shaped pieces of toast spread with sauce and scrambled eggs, the edges decorated anchovy butter, decorated with minced whites with lobster coral. of eggs down one side, yolks on the other, and CANAPE MADISON Slices of toast on which the third with minced green gherkins, and a is laid a tbia slice of lean hara s P read with stuffed olive in the centre. French mustard, this again is spread with a CANAPES OF CRAB Circles of toast spread cold white sauce containing minced cooked with deviled crab meat, sprinkled with Parme- onions, garlic, and cheese; Parmesan cheese is san cheese and browned in the oven (called tQ en dredged on top, sprinkled with fine bread CANAPE LORENZO). crumbs, baked and served. CANAPES OF SMOKED SALMON Strips of CHICKEN CANAPES Circles of toast spread toast spread with anchovy butter, a thin circle with chicken forcemeat in which is worked of smoked salmon on top, the edges decorated cream and butter, dredged with Parmesan with hard boiled eggs minced and mixed with cheese and baked, then decorated in the centre chopped parsley. with a stamped piece of white of egg. CANAPES OF CHICKEN LIVERS Chicken CREOLE CANAPES Grated lean ham, onion, 56 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. garlic and chopped parsley with pieces of peeled vegetables, then colored with a coal tar product tomatoes and minced green peppers, seasoned and loaded with salicylic acid to prevent fermen- with salt and pepper, stewed down dry, then tation. Fruit butters are nothing but parings spread on strips of buttered toast, dredged and scrapings of fruit, to which glucose, starch with Parmesan cheese and baked. and colorings have been added, with salicylic SCOTCH CANAPES Breast of chicken, red acid as a preservative. Jellies are made from tongue and lean ham all cut into very small glucose, flavored with essential oils and colored, dice, seasoned with nutmeg and a little curry to which salicylic acid is added. Some fruit powder, then worked into a thick Veloute sauce, jellies marked as pure, have never seen a trace spread on slices of toast, dredged with Parme- of fruit. What is true of jellies is true of pre- san cheese and baked, (also called, CANAPE serves. Put together refuse material, the cheap- ABERDEEN). est sort of glucose, some coloring and salicylic CANAPE WINDSOR Strips of toast spread acid, and you have the composition of some of with a forcemeat of any kind of white fleshed the cheaper forms of preserves that are to be fish, seasoned with mustard and Worcester- found on the shelves of some of our grocery shire sauce, dredged with Parmesan cheese and stores. Of these coarser forms of adulterations baked. it will be unnecessary to say even a word; they CANAPE CABILLAUD Triangle shaped pieces are universally recognized as being unfit for use of toast spread with a forcemeat made of boiled and every honest dealer is of the opinion that tlie salt codfish, mixed with minced green peppers sooner they are driven out of the market the and spring onions seasoned with tarragon vine- better it will be for trade." gar, decorated with capers. CANTELOUPES Are of different kinds in our MADRAS CANAPES Circles of toast spread markets; although the "Nutmeg" is pronounced with a mixture of finely minced white fleshed the best, many have a distinct fancy for the fish, Madras chutney and sweet pickles, moist- "Osage" with its thick yellow fruit. In select- ened with Hollandaise sauce, dredged with ing the nutmegs, those which have a thick Parmesan cheese and baked, (also called, broad cording on the rind, and with the section CANAPE WINCHESTER). marks inclined to a yellow color, will be found CHEESE CANAPES Strips of bread hollowed the best fruit. To be served they are first kept out half their thickness, then toasted, the inner on ice, then scrubbed or washed, split in halves part sprayed with Worcestershire sauce, the lengthwise, pith and seeds removed, and the cavity then fitted with a slice of Swiss cheese, cavity filled with small broken ice; eaten by baked, and served very hot. some with powdered sugar, by others with salt CANNELONS Name given to hollow lengths of and pepper. noodle or puff paste made by twining strips of CAPERCAILZIE A game bird of the grouse the paste around a piece of pipe or tubing, species, the male bird differing greatly from then either baked or fried, the pipe removed, the hen in that it attains to twice the size, has the cannelons may then be filled with force- dark brown wings, and a dark greeny gold neck, meats, croquette mixtures, creams, preserves, while the hen in appearance and plumage is etc. very like a prairie hen. This bird must always CANARD French name for wild duck. Cane- be hung for a week or so to become tender; it ton for domestic duck or duckling. may then be cooked in all the ways of prairie CANNED GOODS The following quotation chickens. clipped from The Sanitarian is given for the CAPERS Are a berry of a plant cultivated in reader to form his own views: Europe and not in America; are spoken of in "Under one heading we may consider several the bible as "hyssop". They are imported groups of foodstuffs, which, while different in here in five sizes: "Nonpariels", "Capotes", composition, are alike in the form of adulteration "Capuchins", "Seconds" and "Thirds", in which is resorted to. These groups include the bottles and in bulk, the latter way being the varieties of canned vegetables, fruit butters, jel- cheapest for hotel use. Capers, however, are lies, preserves and catsups. The forms of adul- often mixed by unscrupulous dealers with terations. common to all of these, consist in the "nasturtium" berries which resemble them in use of coloring matter, of imperfect vegetables or size and appearance. The caper is only used fruits, of other vegetables and fruits than those * or making sauces, or in garnishing, called for of preservatives. In the case of can- CAPONS Are young fowls that have been steri- ned vegetables, there is an accidental adultera- Hzed, secluded and fattened, which improves tion from the ingredients of the can, such as lead the delicacy and flavor of their flesh, and also and tin, and which may, as a rule, be attributed allows them to grow to a much larger size. to a lack of care in canning. In all the groups They are best in the fall of the year. The city mentioned, the adulteration practised is one of of Philadelphia seems to have got the name of the most flagrant and extensive kind. Catsups producing the best, and when placed on the are made of skins and cores instead of the pure bill of fare, no matter what part of the country, THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 37 are generally designated, "Philadelphia Ca- gueux sauce; served with the sauce poured pon". around, and garnished with small quenelles o-* ROAST CAPON STUFFED WITH RICE chicken dipped into parsley sauce. Draw, singe and wash the birds, wiped dry, BOILED CAPON, MUSHROOM SAUCE the inside filled with rice that has been boiled in stock; seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a few herbs; when filled, trussed, breast covered with bacon and tied with string, roasted and basted; when nearly done, the bacon removed, the breast browned; served garnished with watercress, and some Veloute" sauce. ROAST CAPONS WITH NOODLES The birds drawn, singed, washed and trussed, the breast filled with a savory stuffing, bacon tied over the breast, then roasted; served with some boiled noodles that are mixed into Allemande sauce, with a little Parmesan cheese at one end, and Allemande sauce at the other. BRAISED CAPON WITH CHIPOLATA GAR- NISH Capons drawn, singed, washed, wiped. BOILED CAPON WITH TONGUE AND larded on the breast, trussed, put in sauce pan CAULIFLOWER The birds prepared and boiled as in Boiled Capon, Mushroom Sauce; served with a slice of braised smoked tongue, and garnished with flowerets of cauliflower in Bechamel sauce. with small sausages, blanched and peeled chest- BOILED CAPON WITH MILANAISE GAR- nuts, button mushrooms, small glazed onions NISH Prepared and boiled as above, and served surrounded with a garnish of boiled macaroni in inch lengths, with strips of cooked The birds drawn, washed, singed and trussed, bacon tied over the breast, boiled in white stock, sauce made from the stock, some mush- room puree worked into it, also some whole button mushrooms that have been sauteed in butter; served surrounded with the mushrooms in sauce. STEWED CAPON WITH VEGETABLES The birds 'prepared, then disjointed into por- tion pieces, lightly fried in butter, then ar- ranged in a sautoir with slices of carrot, onions and a bunch of sweet herbs, moistened with stock and a glass of Madeira wine, stewed slowly till tender; served garnished with a macedoine of vegetables made hot in Madeira sauce. with vegetables, herbs and spices, moistened half way up with white stock and a glass of white wine, covered with buttered paper, braised till done and glazy. Served garnished and pieces of cooked bacon all made hot in a good roast fowl gravy. BRAISED CAPONS, SAUCE SUPREME Prepared and braised as in the preceding; tongue, sliced mushrooms and minced truffle peelings made hot in a Veloute" sauce. served with Supreme sauce poured around, and BOILED STUFFED CAPON, CELERY SAUCE The birds prepared, then stuffed with celery, the skin rubbed with lemon juice, bacon tied over the breast, boiled in white stock, sauce made from it, into which is worked strips of blanched celery about an inch long, the celery then simmered in the sauce till ten- der; served with the sauce poured around, and garnished with green celery tops. decorated with strips of cooked tongue and watercress. ROAST CAPON STUFFED, GIBLET SAUCE - -The birds prepared, then filled with a savory stuffing, trussed, bacon tied over the breast, roasted and basted till done, bacon then re- moved, and the breast quickly browned; served with a sauce made from the residue of the roasting pan, with minced and sauteed giblets CAPSICUMS Are better known as chillies or worked into it; garnished with watercress. BOILED CAPON WITH SALT PORK The capon prepared and the breast filled with chicken forcemeat, then trussed, boiled in white stock with a piece of salt pork, served with a sauce poured around, made from the stock it was boiled in, to which is added chopped pars- ley and flanked with thin slices of pork. BRAISED CAPONS WITH TOMATOED RICE The birds prepared, the breast cov- ered with bacon, braised with vegetables and peppers; they are of two shapes, the long thin dark red, which is used in vinegars, pickles, and to grind into red pepper; and the round green bell shaped, which is generally stuffed and baked, or cut up into many sauces, soups and garnitures. CARAMEL Is a term used by cooks for burnt sugar thinned with water, and used to color soups, sauces, gravies, syrups, icecreams, etc., that require a brown tint without a pronounced flavoring. spices; when done, taken up, and the braise CARBONADE A French term applied to denote strained, skimmed, and added to a Ve'loute a stew composed of cold meats, generally sea- soned with onions and garlic, such as carbonado of beef, mutton, etc. with a small mold of the rice turned out on end CARAWAY Name of seeds of a wild plant used of dish with some of the sauce poured around. in distilling, for cordial and cake flavoring. QUENELLES, CARDINAL Name applied to foods, sauces and drinks, that are colored a bright red. sauce. Rice boiled in chicken stock till done, drained, mixed with a tomato puree; served BRAISED CAPONS WITH SAUCE PERIGUEUX Prepared and braised as in the preceding, the braise strained, skim- CARDOONS A vegetable resembling sea-kale, med, reduced to glaze, then mixed into a Peri- but the stalks are feathery. Plentifully grown THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. in Canada; may be treated the same as sea- kale. CARMINE A red coloring used for syrups, sauces, cakes, etc., obtained from the cochineal insect; made by bruising four ounces of coch- eggs, minced chives and shallots, seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg; sewn up, scored, rolled in oil paper, and slowly broiled till done through; served with fines- herbes sauce poured over and garnished with Julienne potatoes. ineal insects and soaking for a few minutes in FRIED CARP, PIQUANTE SAUCE The fish three pints of cold water, then put to boil with two ounces of common washing soda; when boiling, removed to where it simmers only, then slowly is added two ounces of rock alum, then four ounces of cream of tartar, boiled up for two minutes, strained, and when cold, bottled for use. CARP A fresh water fish, in season from Sep- tember to May; is highly esteemed, and.its roe is nearly equal to that of the Shad. BAKED CARP, SAUCE MATELOTE The fish scaled and trimmed, filled with savory stuf- scaled, trimmed, washed, dried, rubbed with lemon juice, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, dipped in beaten eggs, fried; served with Piquante sauce poured around, garnished with lemon and parsley, and sur- rounded with Parisienne potatoes. BOILED CARP ROES, SAUCE SUPREME The roes washed, then steeped for an hour in cold water with vinegar, slowly boiled in light consomm with lemon juice in it; served with supreme sauce poured over, and garnished with potatoes Anglaise. fing, sewn up, scored into cutting portions, the FRIED CARP ROES, SAUCE TARTARS The roes washed and steeped as above, then blanched in salted vinegar water, taken out and wiped dry, seasoned with salt, pepper and lemon juice, breaded, fried; served with tartar sauce poured around, garnished with lemon, parsley and chip potatoes. served with it, and garnished with Duchesse SCALLOPED CARP ROES IN SHELL-The roes cleansed, steeped and blanched, theu boiled in salted vinegar water till done; taken up, cut into dice with mushrooms, put into a Ve'loute sauce with a little lobster coral, then filled into scallop shells, sprinkled with bread crumbs and melted butter, baked and served. back dipped in beaten eggs, then in bread crumbs, laid in pan, back sprinkled with melted butter, moistened with a little red wine and consomme^ a few slices of onions added, slowly baked till done, taken up, the residue of the pan strained into a matelote sauce, the fish potatoes. BAKED CARP, SAUCE GENOISE The fish scaled, trimmed and stuffed as above, sewn up, scored, baked in Genoise sauce, served with it, and garnished with potatoes Bignonne. BRAISED STUFFED CARP, SAUCE ALLE- MANDE-The fish scaled, trimmed, stuffed PATTIES OF CARP ROES-The preceding mixture filled into patty shells; served with the top sprinkled with lobster coral, and Vlout6 sauce poured around. with fish forcemeat, sewn up, the skin then spread with more forcemeat, placed in a sau- toir with vegetables and spices, moistened with fish stock and white wine, covered with buttered CARP SAUTE, ADMIRAL SAUCE-The fish a pound each in weight, scaled, trimmed, washed, dried, scored, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, slowly fried in butter paper, slowly braised till done, taken up, braise strained, skimmed, and added to an Allemande sauce, served with it, and garnished with Hol- landaise potatoes. BOILED CARP, CAPER SAUCE The fish ** till done; served surrounded with Admiral sauce, garnished with parsley, lemon and Vic* toria potatoes. into portions, placed in sautoir with stuck with cloves and a bunch of herbs, cov- ered with good beef gravy and a little port wine, boiled slowly till done, sauce made from the liquor it was boiled in; when done, capers and caper vinegar added to it; served with the fish, garnished with Conde potatoes. BROILED CARP, LEMON PARSLEY BUT- TER The fish scaled, trimmed, washed, dried and filleted, scored across the skin, seasoned le, 01 at CARROTS A vegetable that in this country ters into almost every soup, sauce, ragout, etc., for its flavor, and in the early summer when new and about two inches long, are relished as an accompaniment to fresh boiled beef, New England dinner, etc. CARROTS m CREAM -The carrots washed and ed> theQ bojled tendef - n ^ Jng sahed water taken up and drained then simmere d in reduced cream or thin cream sauce; served as a vegetable. with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, then dip- SAUT O F NEW CARROTS Washed, scraped ped in olive oil, broiled, served with Maitre and boiled as above then sauteed in buiier> D'Hotel butter poured over and garnished with taken up and mixed into Maitre D - H 6tel but- chip potatoes, lemon and parsley. ter; served as a garnish. BROILED STUFFED CARP.FINES-HERBES BRAISED NEW CARROTS, PARSLEY SAUCE Fish a pound each in weight, scaled, SAUCE The carrots washed and scraped, trimmed and washed, filled with a forcemeat then braised in consomme 1 to a glaze, taken up; made of minced mushrooms, small pieces of served on small platters with some parsley any cooked fish, chopped parsley, hard boiled sauce at the end, as a vegetable. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 39 GLAZED NEW CARROTS WITH BUTTER Prepared and glazed as in the preceding, taken up, dipped in melted butter and used as a garnish. NEW CARROTS IN BROWN GRAVY Glazed as above, taken up, put into a rich brown gravy; served as a garnish sprinkled with parsley, or as a vegetable. STEWED CARROTS WITH GREEN PEAS New carrots cored with a column cutter, then cut in thin slices, stewed in consomme 1 till tender; green peas boiled in salted water with a bunch of fresh mint, strained off when done, and mixed with the carrots; served as a vege- table. NEW CARROTS IN POULETTE SAUCE Washed and scraped, then boiled in boiling salted water till tender, drained off and then mixed into Poulette sauce and served as a vegetable. CURRIED CARROTS WITH RICE Vegetar- ian entree The carrots prepared and cooked (as in Braised New Carrots, Parsley Sauce), then taken up and mixed into a good curry sauce made of cream; served in the center of a border of dry boiled rice. CARROT SALAD WITH ASPARAGUS TIPS The carrots glazed and when cold the tips dipped into Ravigote sauce, arranged alter- nately on dish with points of asparagus sprink- led with Vinaigrette sauce, and garnished with shred lettuce. CARROT SOUP Plenty of carrots with a few soup vegetables boiled in stock with a piece of corned beef; when meat is done, taken up, the soup then made thick with roux, then rubbed through a fine sieve, boiled up again, seasoned and skimmed; served with croutons, (called, PUREE CRECY). CARVING To carve a LOIN OF MUTTON OR VEAL, begin at the small end and cut between the ribs. A FILLET OF VEAL should be cut first from the top, and in a BREAST OF VEAL, the breast and brisket should first be separated, then cut across. A SIRLOIN OF BEEF should be placed with the tenderloin down, thin cut slices should be cut from the side next the carver, then turn over the roast and carve from underneath; a slice of both should be served. In restaurants the -sirloin is generally all used up in Porter- house steaks. A RIB ROAST should be put on the carving table thick end down and stand- ing upright, the first two ribs cut off to be used for well done orders, the chine removed, and broad level thin slices served, with gravy poured under. SHORT RIBS should be served with the bone left in. A LEG OF MUTTON should be carved across the middle of the bone first and then from the thickest part till the gristle is reached. A few nice slices can be cut from the smaller end, but it is usually hard and stringy. A HAM can be served in several ways: by cutting long delicate slices through the thick fat down to the bone; by running the point of the knife in a circle in the middle and cutting thin circular slices, thus keeping the ham moist; or, by beginning at the knuckle end and slicing upwards; the latter is the most economical. A TONGUE should be carved in very thin slices, its delicacy depending upon this; the slices from the center are considered the most tempting, and should be cut across and the slices taken from both sides with a portion of the fat from the root. In carving FISH, practice is required in order to prevent the flakes from breaking; the choic- est morsels of all large fish are near the head, the thin parts come next; the flavor nearest the bone is never equal to that on the upper part; a fish knife should always be used. FOWLS should be placed breast up, the fork put into the breast to steady the bird, then cut off the wings and legs, cut out the breast bone so as to leave a well browned skin over it and the white meat, cut off the side bones and di- vide what is left in two from the neck down, remove the second joint from the leg and wing. TENDERLOINS should have the tip cut off and then cut in medium thick slices across. HEARTS should be cut wedge shaped with some of the dressing. FOREQUARTERS OF LAMB should have the shoulder lifted off, and a slice of the shoulder and rib served to- gether. GOOSE should be carved lengthwise of the breast from the point downwards. DUCKLINGS should simply be cut into four quarters. DUCKS carved same as goose. PARTRIDGE and PHEASANTS same as fowls if large; if small partridge, split lengthwise in three, removing the backbone of the center cut. SQUABS, PLOVERS and QUAIL split length- wise in halves. All SMALL GAME left whole. CASSEROLE French name for a saucepan. It is also the name of a metal or earthenware tureen with a flat bottom, fitted with lid and handles. Various entries are cooked and served "en casserole", thus forming a pot roast or kind of braise. CASSOLETTE Are small cups formed of rice croquette mixture either sweet or savory; when formed, either rolled in flour only, or else breaded and fried; made to hold entries, jel- lies, fruits, etc. CASSIA Is the name of a small tree which yields a bark that has less aroma, but is hard otherwise to detect from cinnamon; it is ground and made into oils and extracts, and passed off for cinnamon generally without detection. CATFISH Are of two kinds or main varieties, the "sea catfish" and "river catfish". Both are good for food, yet they are not of the same species. They are seldom, if ever, put on hotel bills of fare other than as ' 'Fried catfish", "Catfish saute"", "Braised catfish with toma- toes", etc., or as "Catfish chowder". 40 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. BOILED CAULIFLOWER, HOLLANDAISE in cans; it is considered by epicures to be one SAUCE The cauliflower trimmed, laid in of the finest of appetizers. salted water for an hour, then boiled in salted CAVIAR ON TOAST WITH OLIVES One boiling water with a dash of vinegar in it till part each of Russian caviar, soft bread crumbs, tender, taken up and drained; served with and blanched and peeled Jordan almonds mixed Hollan'daise sauce poured around; may also be together and minced into a paste, spread on served this way with tomato sauce. strips of toast, the edges garnished with slices STEWED CAULIFLOWER The cauliflower of stoned olives. prepared and boiled as above, then taken up CAVIAR TARTINES Russian ^caviar^spread arranged in a sautoir, covered and sectioned, arranged in with butter sauce and simmered; served as a vegetable. BAKED CAULIFLOWER Stewed as in the preceding, then placed into baking dish, cov- ered with bread crumbs and grated cheese, sprinkled with butter and baked. SCALLOPED CAULIFLOWER Same as the preceding, but filled into scallop shells instead of baking dish; served in the shells. FRIED CAULIFLOWER, ALLEMANDE SAUCE The stewed cauliflower above, taken up, dipped into batter and fried; served with Allemande sauce poured around. CAULIFLOWER WITH MAYONNAISE Cold boiled cauliflower in flowerets, marinaded in French dressing, arranged on a leaf of let- tuce around the dish, with mayonnaise in the center. CAULIFLOWER SALAD Cold boiled cauli- flowerets covered with cream salad dressing, arranged in center of dish, garnished with small balls of beets. PUREE OF CAULIFLOWER One-third v&- Iout6 sauce, one-third chicken stock, mixed and brought to the boil, minced cauliflower stalks and roots boiled in it till tender with a little thyme and parsley; when done, rubbed through a fine sieve, brought to the boil again and one- third of the whole of cream sauce then added; served with croutons. CREAM OF CAULIFLOWER Same as the preceding, but when finished, very small flow- erets added before serving. CAULIFLOWER SAUCE Into a good butter sauce is worked some very small flowerets of boiled cauliflower with a little pure"e, (good for boiled poultry). PICKLED CAULIFLOWER Cauliflowers boiled till tender in flowerets, then put into jars, and covered with the following pickle: One pound of dry mustard mixed with one ounce of turmeric, then moistened with vinegar. One gallon of vinegar brought to the boil, the mustard and turmeric paste stirred into it, brought to the simmer and when beginning to thicken, one pound of sugar, half a pint of olive oil, and two ounces of mustard seed succes- sively added to it, simmered for a few minutes, then poured boiling hot over the cauliflowers in the jars. CAVIAR Is a preparation made from the roes of sturgeon, can be bought at the grocery stores on toast, and the edges decorated with finely chopped green gherkins, parsley and sweet peppers mixed together. CANAPES OF CAVIAR Circles of toast, the edges spread with anchovy paste, with an onion ring as its base, the ring filled with Russian caviar. EGGS STUFFED WITH CAVIAR Cut slices of hard boiled eggs, the yolks removed, its place filled with Russian caviar; served on thin slices of buttered brown bread. CAVIAR WITH EGG Slices of toast, the edges piped with beaten whites of eggs, caviar sprinkled on top, whole yolk of raw egg dropped in the center, baked till set, and served hot. CAVIAR CROUSTADES Very small paste croustades half an inch deep filled with caviar. on it placed a freshly opened blue point oyster; served garnished with lemon and watercress. CELERY Is an aromatic plant cultivated largely as a flavoring vegetable and for uses of salads. It is generally sent to table in a raw condition, is the one and proper thing to eat with "canvas back duck". Kalamazoo, Michigan, is the great celery raising spot in this country. When the celery industry was started in Kalamazoo, it was not for several years that the enterpris- ing pioneers in this industry discovered that the thousands of acres of river bottom lands surrounding the city were especially adapted in the raising of celery to the pinnacle of es- teem and popular favor it cow holds. Visitors to Kalamazoo ate it, and carried away marve- lous tales of its delicacy, orders to purchase and forward were sent back to friends and ex- press agents, and the industry that was destined to make Kalamazoo famous as the celery city was born. At the present time there are thous- ands of acres under cultivation, and celery finds its way from Kalamazoo to every part of the United States and special shipments have been sent by steamer to Liverpool and London. In raising celery the seed is first sown during the winter months in specially prepared hot houses, of which there are acres under glass, the plants are transplanted, thinned out, and about the first of May are again transplanted to the fields, being planted in specially prepared trenches in double rows. There it is carefully looked after, cultivated and irrigated, and when of the proper size, the rich black soil is drawn up around the plants from both sides, until it forms a bank reaching nearly to the top of the leaves. About fourteen days is required for THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 41 the plant to acquire that silvery whiteness and with salt, pepper and a little butter, the mix- delicate crispness so enjoyed by every lover of ture steamed till it thickens, then filled into celery. The shipping season then commences, patty cases and served hot. and celery is taken from the fields to the pack- BAKED CELERY WITH CHEESE The cel- ery cut into inch lengths like macaroni, boiled in salted water till tender, drained, mixed with a little grated ham and chopped green celery leaves, arranged in layers in baking dish, each layer sprinkled with grated cheese; when full, moistened with Veloute" sauce, sprinkled with grated bread crumbs mixed with cheese, then with melted butter and baked. ing rooms, carefully washed and tied in bunches of twelve heads each, packed and delivered to the express company for shipment. The fall crop, which is abundant later, is taken from the fields about the first of November, and is placed in specially constructed houses for pre- servation during the cold weather months. The season usually commences about the first of July and closes about February. From its CELERY WITH MARROW The stewed eel- start as the appetizer, in front of a good dinner, ery (as in Stewed Celery on Toast) served on toast spread with marrow; served garnished with slices of cooked marrow. The use of celery and its adaptability in the FRIED CELERY, SAUCE VILLEROI Three- preparation of table condiments is well seen on inch lengths of celery stalk boiled not quite done in salted water, drained, seasoned with salt and pepper, breaded and fiied; served with Villeroi sauce poured around, quality for use at any time in the preparation BOILED CELERY WITH ONIONS Stalks of salads; celery pickles, celery mustard, celery of celery about three inches long, small onions salt, celery pepper, celery extracts and tonic, of an even size, both boiled together in veal in fact everything that can be manufactured stock till tender; served, the celery on toast from it in any way. Chopped and canned masked with Bechamel sauce, garnished with celery are especially adapted to the wants of onions. the "Chef as they are always ready at any CELERY FRITTERS Celery stalks three season of the year, and particularly useful are inches long, tied in bundles three stalks thick, they at the season when good celery is not ob- boiled till tender in salted water, taken up and tainable. There is also manufactured a pre- drained, seasoned with salt, pepper and Par- pared salad ready for the table, whose flavor mesan cheese, string removed, dipped in batter and excellence is as surprising as it is delicious. and fried : served as a vegetable. CREAM OF CELERY -Into a good veal or BRAISED CELERY ON TOAST-Celery stalks all of an even size, boiled not quite done in salted water, then arranged in a sautoir, and moistened with strong chicken stock and a piece of glaze, stewed down rich; served on its rare beauty as a table ornament, etc., the rise of celery to popular appreciation was rapid. the grocers' shelves. There is canned celery for cooking only; chopped celery put up in such a manner as to retain its crispness and good chicken stock is put a knuckle of ham, a few onions, plenty of outside stalks of celery, and a few blades of mace; boiled till celery is soft, ham then taken out and the soup thickened with roux and rubbed through a fine sieve, toast with the glaze poured over it. boiled up again with the addition of an equal CELERY SAUTE-Celery stalks of an even size, quantity of Bechamel sauce, seasoned and served (also called puree). PUREE OF CELERY AND ONIONS Same as the preceding, but using a puree of onions or sauce soubise to add with the celery puree, instead of Bechamel. CELERY CONSOMME The vegetables in the consomme stock composed mostly of celery, to give it a pronounced flavor; when strained and skimmed, Julienne strips of boiled celery added to it, seasoned and served. STEWED CELERY ON TOAST Celery stalks all cut about the same size like asparagus, blanched, then arranged in a sautoir with some bacon trimmings and a minced shallot, heated thoroughly, then moistened with equal parts of tomato and Espagnole sauces, simmered till done; served on toast with the sauce poured over. MAYONNAISE OF CELERY The tender parts only should be used by cutting them into pencil strips an inch long, washing thoroughly, then drained and mixed with mayonnaise; served on a leaf of lettuce. CELERIAC--A form of celery with a bulbous root, used as a salad and for flavoring, but little used in hotel work. boiled tender in salted water, taken up and CEPES A strongly flavored flat headed mush- arranged in a sautoir, moistened with Veloute' room, imported in cans, preserved in olive oil. sauce, simmered; served with one end resting SAUTE OF CEPES ON TOAST Drained from their oil, lightly fried in pan, when thor- oughly heated, sprinkled with lemon juice and chopped parsley, arranged on toast, and served very hot. pounded to a paste with a cupful each of grated STEWED CEPES ON TOAST The cepes ham, cream, and fine bread crumbs, seasoned drained from their oil and then cut in slices, on toast, with some of the sauce poured over the ends. CELERY PATTIES The hearts of eight heads of celery boiled till tender, drained, then THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. arranged in a safitoir with chopped parsley, minced onions and garlic, moistened with Es- pagnole sauce, simmered; served on toast with sauce around. BROILED CEPES ON TOAST Drained from their oil, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in fresh bread crumbs, broiled; served on toast with Maitre D'Hotel butter poured over them, and garnished with lemon and parsley. OMELET WITH CEPES The cepes drained, cut in slices, fried in butter with a crushed clove of garlic, taken up and mixed with a little Colbert sauce; served enclosed in a savory omelet, with more of the cepes in sauce poured around. CERCELLES The French name sometimes seen on bills of fare for "Teal". CERVELAS The French name for a highly spiced small sausage of the bologna order; can be purchased at the Italian and Delicatessen stores. CEREALINE A white flaky pudding material prepared from Indian corn; also boiled plain and eaten with cream as a breakfast cereal; made into puddings according to the various recipes of the vendors, printed on the sides of the packets in which it is sold. CERVELLES French name for animal brains, for recipes, see "brains". CHABLIS The name of a white French wine, principally used for cooking purposes, but some of the brands of the genuine article are highly prized for their digestive and health giving qualities, such as Montrachet, Clos, Blanchot and Moutonne. CHAFING DISH A vessel heated from the underneath by a spirit lamp, also by electricity; is used for keeping and serving foods hot, or cooking on the table; for recipes, see "Chafing Dish Cookery" in the "CHEF'S REMINDER". CHAMPAGNE A wine prepared from grapes; the best varieties are manufactured at Epernay, Rbeims and Mareuil in France, but the vin- tages of each year are vastly different, and sometimes the grape crop is a dismal failure. Hence champagne drinkers in Europe and Great Britain are versed on the merits and de- merits of the various vintages. While in the United States, but very little attention has thus far been paid to the matter; the following clip- ping from the Hotel World of London, Eng- land, will doubtless be of interest: 1880 1879 1878 1877 1876 1875 1874 1873 1872 1871 1870 1869 1868 1867 Yield in Year gallons Character of the wines 1891 3,548,292 Passable, but very dear. Ib90 6,673,656 Ordinary quality, 1889 6,109.994 Very good, price excessively high. 1888 4,639,098 Passable. 18-7 10,409.278 Fairly good, light. 1886 6,525,398 Some good wines with abundance of vln- osity ; but for the most part the vintage is under suspicion, which time has not so far lessened 1886 8,199.070 Mediocre, resembling the 1883's. 1884 11,528,946 Fine elegant wines, highly prized by con- noisseurs. 1883 9,051.460 Mediocre and dear; acid. 1882 7,068668 Mediocre; acid; Immature. 1881 14,627,140 Passable. 2,423,236 Very good; lighter than the 1874's, exces- sively dear. 2 008.776 Complete failure, yield small, fortunately. 11.698.546 Good; fine; light. 10.407.694 Mediocre; acid. 16.120.786 Mediocre. 21.710.346 Passable. 8,178,644 Very fine, both as to vlnosity and color. has been greatly sought after. 1,138.718 Bad; acid, and notwithstanding that, dear. 4.480,960 Fairly good. 6,485,306 Mediocre. 4.960.010 Good. 8.542886 Passable. 12,316,700 Very good, elegant, and lighter than the 1865's. 3.889.3S6 Mediocre. 1866 19.44U.870 Bad. 1865 14,314,542 Wine of superior quality ; very vinous. CHANTILLY Is the title given by confectioners to a form of basket made of cakes, choux paste, candied peels, almond paste, etc., filled with whipped cream. Chantilly cream is simply whipped cream. CHANTILLY SOUP Fresh green peas, a bunch of fresh mint, some green onion tops and a piece of salt pork boiled together in good chick- en stock; when done the pork removed, the stock thickened with roux, then rubbed through a sieve, the pure boiled up again and seasoned; served with croutons. CHARCOAL One of the kitchen essentials for good broiling, should be kept dry in a good cellar; often times bought by the load, the load presumed to contain so many bushels; when happening to be delivered as many things are in bulk, during the steward's absence, the fol- lowing capacities of cribs and boxes for pota- toes and other root vegetables, coal, charcoal, etc., will be found reliable and useful: [The United States standard (Winchester) bushel, 18^ inches in diameter, and 8 inches deep, contains 2150.42 cubic inches.] One cubic foot equals four-fifths of a bushel. A box 3x3x3 27 cubic feet and holds 21 3/5 bushels A box 5x3x2 80 24 A box 5x.3 46 " " " 3 A box 5x3x4 60 " " " " 48 A box 7x5x3.9 131 X " " " " 1041/3 A box 7x7x7 343 A box 8x8x8 512 A box 10x10x10 1000 2742/5 4093/5 800 CHARLOTTE Is the name given to what might be called a shell of bread, cake, lady fingers, etc., cut to fit into a mold or pan, which is then filled with fruits, creams, custards, etc. CHARTREUSE Is the name of a liqueur made in three colors, green, yellow and white; origi- nally made by the monks of a French monastery at Dauphine, in the Alps mountains. There are, however, dishes dedicated to these monks, called "chartreuses"; they are made of various rich foods, such as prairie hens, fish, partridges, larks, snipe, squabs, chickens, fruits, etc., en- closed in a mold or shell of a much more com- mon material, being a disguise, inasmuch as the monks were under severe dicipline, and were supposed to be very frugal. Recipes for chartreuses will be found under the respective food which demands it. CHASSEUR Is the French word for "liunter"; a la Chasseur means hunter's style, sauce THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 43 Chasseur, hunter's sauce, made from the pro- ceeds of the hunt. CHATEAUBRIAND Is the name given to a style of cooking a tenderloin steak between two others of inferior cuts and then pressing the juice of the two outside ones over the fillet. But some cooks simply take a fillet steak, split, stuff and broil it, serve it with a Maitre D'Hotel butter mixed with beef glaze, and call that "Chateaubriand". History says the first is right. CHAUDFROID Literally means hot-cold, and is applied to dishes that are prepared hot, then made into a form more suitable to eat cold, such as chaudfroid of game, fowl, partridge, woodcocks, larks, reedbirds, pheasants, plovers, quail and turkey, for recipes of which see the sub-heading of the articles mentioned. CHEESE A most nutritious food, forming many excellent dishes; it is of various kinds, of which the following are to be found in good hotels: Skim, cream, full cream, cheddar, stilton, roquefort, camembert, brie, neufchatel, par- mesan, edam, gorgonzola, gruyere, port-du- salut, sage, sap-sago, and sometimes on the bar and in German clubs may be found Limburger, to describe which the following story will aid without further comment: LIMBURGER CHEESK. Ma sent me to pay a bill at the grocers last Saturday. The boss behind the counter made me a present of something wrapped in a piece of silver paper, which he told me was a piece of Limburger cheese. When I got outside the shop I opened the paper, and when I smelt what was inside I felt tired. I took it home and put It in the coal shed. In the morning L went to it again. It was still there. Nobody had taken it. I wondered what I could do with it. Father and mother were getting ready to go to church. 1 put a piece in the back pocket of father's pants, and another piece in the lining of ma's muff. I walked behind when we started for church. It was begin- ning to get warm. When we got in church, father looked anxious and mother looked as If something had happened* After the first hymn, mother told father not to sing againi but to keep his mouth shut, and breathe through his nose. After the prayer, prespiration stood on father's face, and the people in the next pew to ours got up and went out. After the next hymn father whispered to mother that he thought she had better go out and air herself. After the second lesson, some of the church wardens came round to see If there were any stray rats in the church. Some more people near our pew got up and went out, putting their handkerchiefs to their noses as they went. The parson said they had better close the service, and hold a meeting outside to discuss the sanitary condition of the church. Father told mother they had better go home one at a time. Mother told father to go the nearest way home and disinfect himself before she came. When they got home, they both went Into the front room, but did not speak for some time- Mother spoke first, and told father to put the cat out of the room, as she thought it was going to be sick. It was sick before father could get it out. Mother then turned round, and noticed that the canary was dead. Mother told father not to sit so near to the fire, as it made matters wor^e. Father told mother to go and smother herself. Mother said she thought she was smothered already. Just then the servant came in. and asked if she should open the windows, as the room felt very close. Father went upstairs and changed his clothes, and had a hot batb. Mother took father's clothes and offered them to a tramp, who said, "Thanks, kind lady, they are a bit too high for me." Mother threw them over the back fence Into the canal. Father was summoned afterwards for poisoning the fish. Mother went to bed. Father asked her 1C she had been fumigated. Just then father had a note sent him. Father came to wish me "Good Night" at 10 o'clock in the evening, with a note In one hand and a razor strop in the other. I got under the bed. The people next door thought we were beating carpets In the house. I cannot sit down comfortably yet. I have given my little sister what 1 had left of that Limburger cheese. I thought it a pity to waste it. WELSH RAREBIT A little butter placed in a small shallow sadtoir; when melted, finely cut cheese added to it, seasoned with salt, red pep- per, dry mustard and Worcestershire sauce as it begins to melt, ale added till it becomes of a creamy nature; a hot dish with slices of hot toast, the cheese poured over it and served. GOLDEN BUCK Is the preceding with a poached egg on top. YORKSHIRE RAREBIT Is a Golden Buck with a strip of broiled bacon on each side of the egg. OLD FASHIONED YORKSHIRE BUCK A slice of bread half inch thick thinly spread with mustard, placed in hot oven till brown, moist- ened with half a glass of ale, covered with a slice of cheese quarter inch thick, two thin slices of bacon placed on the cheese, returned to oven and cooked till the cheese is melted and the bacon done; served very hot. COTTAGE CHEESE A good way to use up sour milk; let the milk sour to clotness, boiling water then poured to it, stirred, turned into a colander, little cold water poured over it, salt added and again stirred, then placed into a muslin bag and drained dry; served either plain or mixed with cream. Sometimes a little cream and finely chopped chives are added to it before serving, especially for the bar lunch. CHEESE SCALLOPS Individual patty pans buttered, then lined with slices of cheese, an egg then broke into the center, seasoned with pepper, a table-spoonful of milk or cream poured over the egg, then dredged with grated cheese and slowly baked for twenty minutes, turned out and served on dry or fried toast. CHEESE STRAWS One pound of flour, three- quarter pound of grated cheese, four raw yolks of eggs, seasoned with salt and red pepper, made into a paste, rolled out thin, cut into strips and baked a straw color. CHEESE SAVORIES Water crackers split, and the open side thinly spread with anchovy butter; then, with a paste made of two parts of roquefort cheese to one part of butter, sea- soned with salt, red pepper and a dash of sherry wine; served garnished with thin slices of green gherkins. CHEESE BISCUITS Half a pound each of butter and flour, four raw egg yolks, ten ounces of grated Swiss cheese, one table-spoonful ol dry mustard and a little red pepper, the butter beaten to a cream, the eggs and dry ingredients then added, made into a stiff dough, rolled out, cut in square biscuits, baked twenty minutes in a rather slow oven and served. CHEESE RAMEQUINS Half a pound each of roquefort and Swiss cheeses, one pound of but- 44 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. ter, sixteen raw yolks of eggs, and the insides of four breakfast rolls boiled in cream till soft, the whole then made into a paste, and then mixed lightly with the beaten whites of sixteen eggs; filled into fancy paper cases and baked a fine brown; served very hot. CHEESE BOMBE Into a choux paste made of three-quarter pound of flour, one-half pound of butter and a quart of water, work in one at a time twelve raw yolks and eight whites of eggs, then three-quarter pound of grated Swiss cheese; cooked by frying small spoonfuls in not too hot fat; when done, served with Montpelier butter. CHEESE FLANS Scalloped circles of puff paste, on one half of it is spread a paste made of twelve ounces of parmesan cheese, eight ounces of butter, eight yolks and four beaten whites of eggs, the other half turned on to it, edges pinched down, arranged on baking sheet, brushed over with egg wash, baked, served with watercress. CHEESE CASSEROLES Slices of bread one and a half inches thick, trimmed circular, a center then cut out with column cutter leaving a bottom, dipped in milk, then breaded and fried, taken up and the center filled with a mixture made of two parts bread crumbs, one part grated cheese, and half a part each of melted butter and milk; seasoned with salt and red pepper, baked quickly till cheese is melted and served very hot. CHEESE CUSTARD Grated cheese, beaten raw eggs, dry mustard, salt and pepper beaten into milk at the rate of three eggs and four ounces of cheese to the quart; poured into hot buttered scallop dishes and baked; served in the dish. CHEESE PUDDING Is the same mixture as the preceding, but the scallop dish fitted with a slice of buttered toast, and the mixture poured over it before baking. CHEESE SOUFFLES Another name for "Cheese Ramequins", (which see). CHEESE FRITTERS Half a pound of grated Parmesan cheese seasoned with salt and red pepper worked into the beaten whites of eight eggs; cooked by frying small spoonfuls in hot fat, then taken up and rolled into grated cheese mixed with finely chopped parsley; served very hot. POTTED CHEESE Grated cheese, to every pound of which is added four ounces of melted butter and a tablespoonful of brandy, with a seasoning of dry mustard and red pepper, pressed into jars, covered with parchment paper and kept for use. This is also called "Club cheese" and can be bought in small jars. CHEESE CONES The paste given for "Cheese Straws" (which see), cut in squares and baked, then a cone of whipped cream mixed with grated parmesan cheese forced on top with a bag and fancy tube. CHEESE OMELET Beaten eggs with a little cream seasoned with salt and red pepper, fried in omelet form, but before being rolled dredged with grated cheese; served with a dredging of cheese on top, melted in the oven. CHEESE FINGERS Strips of puff paste finger lengths; with each fold of the paste, grated cheese is rolled in, then cut in strips, egg washed and baked. CHEESE SANDWICHES Thin slices of but- tered bread with a thin slice of cheese between, or spread with "Potted Cheese" (which see). CHEMISE A French term used to designate potatoes boiled in their skins, which they call "pommes de terre, en chemise". CHERRIES California produces our best table cherries, while most all of the states produce the red and black sour cooking cherries. The following clipping from the San Francisco Wave will show how an immense crop is handled at a California ranch: "Probably there is no better known and certainly there are few larger ranches in the state of California than that owned by the Meek estate. It is sit- uated a little way outside the city of Oakland, and it covers a huge tract of land between San Lorenzo and Haywards. It is spread over 3,300 acres of some of the finest fruit bearing country on the Pacific coast. A thousand acres of this extent is in fruit, for the most part cherries. The season's cherry picking goes on at a great rate, and a little army of pickers toil from tree to tree, stripping the branches like a swarm of locusts. The sight is picturesque, for the pickers come by families and live in the cherry orchard in a small village of tents. At the height of the season nearly 150 pickers are employed. They are of all ages and both sexes, as the work is of such a nature that it can be performed as well by women as by men; as well by a ten year old girl as by a grown man. The pickers are boarded at the expense of the ranch, and besides receive from 75 cents to $i per day, so that a wife and two or three chil- dren can make as much during the few weeks of the season as the head of the house in an entire year. After the picking, the cherries are taken over to the packing house and handled at once; the riper cherries are sorted out and put upon the local markets, while the more backward are shipped East. The force of packers can dispose of 420 boxes per day. Two thousand boxes go to the carload, and must be hurried to their destination as speedily as possible, for there is no fruit that loses its flavor quicker by overkeeping than the cherry. For the same reason the boxes must be rapidly marketed, for they will not keep many hours in the heat of an Eastern summer. There are plenty of difficulties in the way of getting the California cherry upon the tables of the Eastern consumer, but with ordinary care and a fair season the prices obtainable are not bad. In THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 45 Chicago a ten-pound box of California cherries with sugar, rolled up, ends tucked in, put in can be made to bring a dollar if properly pans and steamed or baked, or tied in wet handled, while in New York, though the East- floured cloths and plunged into boiling water, ern local market comes into competition, the kept boiling till done; serve with cherry sauce, same quality will sometimes fetch 12 cents per CHERRY TARTS Tart molds lined with puff pound. paste, filled with cherry meat mixed with sugar, CHERRY COMPOTE Sound, large sweet cher- baked, then meringued, browned and served, ries scalded for three minutes in a boiling CHERRIES IN CROUSTADES The crous- syrup made of two pounds of sugar to the quart tades made of sweetened rice croquette mixture, of water, the cherries then removed; the syrup the edges decorated; served hot, filled with flavored with noyeau, and when cold added to cherry compote. the cherries; served cold in sauce dishes, or CHERRY CHARLOTTE Small pans lined hot as a sweet entree with a border of sweet- with lady fingers, filled with cherry marmalade, ened rice. covered with fingers, baked and glazed; served BRANDIED CHERRIES Round, large, sweet with cherry sauce. cherries scalded for two or three minutes in a CHERRY MARMALADE Stoned cherries boiling syrup composed of one pound of sugar with some of their kernels boiled to a pulp with to each quart of water, then taken up and laid a very little water and twelve ounces of sugar on dishes to cool, afterwards filled into wide to each pound of fruit; when smooth and stiff mouthed bottles. The syrup they were scalded poured into crocks for future use. in then boiled up again with another pound of CHERRY COBBLER Shallow baking pans sugar added to each quart, scum removed as it li ne d with short paste, sides and bottom, filled rises; when clear, taken off the stove and al- w ith cherry meat mixed with sugar, covered lowed to become cold, then an equal quantity w ith short paste, egg washed and baked: served of brandy added. The brandied syrup then with cherry sauce. poured over the cherries in the bottles, which CHERRY TRIFLE Pieces of stale sponge cake are hermetically sealed and put away for use. moistened with equal parts of the syrup of BOUCHEES OF CHERRIES For recipes of brandied cherries and sherry wine, smoothed fruit bouchees see "Bouchees". down into a dish, then spread with cherry GLAZED CHERRIES WITH WHIPPED marmalade, over which is poured a boiled cus- CREAM Brandied cherries, the syrup poured tard flavored with noyeau, the custard decora- off and boiled down till thick and grainy, then ted with brandied cherries, flavored with Kirschenwasser, allowed to be- CHERRY FRITTERS Thin slices of fresh come cold, then poured over the cherries; bread spread between with cherry marmalade, served around a dome of whipped cream forced the sandwich then neatly trimmed, dipped into through a bag with fancy tube, (called, CER- a thin batter and fried, taken up, rolled in ISES GLACES, a la CHANTILLY). powdered sugar; served with cherry sauce. CHERRY JELLY Five pounds of stoned cherry CHERRY FLAWN A flawn mold lined with meat, juice of eight lemons, one pound of red puff paste, filled with cherry meat mixed with currant jelly and some bruised cherry kernels sugar, baked in slack oven till done, mixed and brought to the boil in a gallon of CHERRY WATER ICE One pound of stoned syrup, simmered and skimmed, removed from cherries and half pound of sugar to each quart the fire and four ounces of dissolved gelatine of water, with a dash of lemon juice and a added, then strained and restrained through a flavor of bitter almonds, the stoned cherries, jelly bag till clear, filled into molds or glasses; bruised kernels and sugar mixed and rubbed served when set. through a fine sieve into the flavored water; CHERRY PIE Stoned red sour cherries slight- then frozen. ly flavored with noyeau, mixed with sugar, CHERRY SHERBET --The water ice of the filled into a pie plate lined with pie paste, the preceding recipe, but when nearly frozen, fruit then sprinkled with carbonate of soda to whipped whites of eggs, two to the quart, are prevent the juice running over, covered with a added, then frozen till done, top crust, edges pressed and crimped, brushed CHERRY MERINGUE Sheet of sponge cake with egg wash and baked. spread thickly with cherry marmalade, then DEEP CHERRY FIE Sound red or black sour spread fancifully with meringue, dotted with cherries mixed with sugar, filled into a deep brandied cherries, baked a straw color, cut in lined pie dish, heaped high in the center, cov- shapes, served with cream or whipped cream, ered with top crust, egg washed, and baked. CHERVIL A garden herb with a combined CHERRY PUDDING Molds or bowls lined flavor of parsley and fennel. with short- paste, filled with cherry meat mixed CHESTNUTS The large ones obtainable at with sugar, covered with top crust, boiled or most Italian stores are the best suited for culi- steamed till done; served with cherry sauce. nary purposes, the small ones seen at the fruit CHERRY ROLY-POLY Sweet biscuit dough stalls being far too tedious. They should be rolled out thin, spread with cherry meat mixed first cut through the shell in the form of a THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. cross, so as to strip the shell off easily, then placed in a baking pan, put into a slack oven till done; or they may be boiled till done, and then husked. Some people like to eat boiled - chestnuts, the water being flavored with ani- seed; when husked, made hot again in a little melted butter. CHESTNUT FORCEMEAT Chestnuts boiled and husked, pounded to a paste with butter, mixed with a little grated ham, breadcrumbs, minced onion, grated lemon rind, yolks of eggs, seasoned with salt and pepper; used to stuff poultry and suckling pigs. DEVILLED CHESTNUTS Boiled, peeled, fried brown in butter oil, taken up and sprink- led with salt and red pepper. PUREE OF CHESTNUTS Boiled, peeled, pounded, then rubbed through a fine sieve. CHESTNUT SOUP A thin cream of chicken stock thickened with a puree of chestnuts, sea- soned and served. .CHIANTI A low priced yet good Italian wine with a Burgundy flavor. CHICORY A plant, the leaves of which are used for salads. The root is ground and used to mix with coffee, giving it a sweetish taste and dark color. Chicory should be discarded from coffee. Eminent physicians claim it has a debilitating effect, and a tendency to excite looseness of the bowels. Stewards who buy cheap ground coffee will invariably find it adulterated with chicory, and the chicory adulterated with Venitian red, acorns, beans, peas, coffee husks, rye, parsnips, damaged wheat, dried coffee grounds, sawdust, bark, logwood dust, etc. MORAL: do not handle it at all, buy whole coffee and see it ground yourselves. BROILED CHICKEN Spring chickens cleaned, split, the breast and backbone removed, thigh bone snapped, seasoned with salt and pepper, brushed with butter, broiled well done; served on buttered toast, garnished with lemon and watercress, using frills on leg and wing bones. FRIED CHICKEN- Spring chickens cleaned, split down the back, breast and backbone re- moved, thigh bone snapped, rolled in butter, then in flour, fried in skillet with a cover on; it may also be breaded, or dipped in batter, and fried in hot fat; the first way tastes the best. SMOTHERED CHICKEN Spring chickens split in halves, breast and backbone removed, thigh bone snapped, seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped in melted butter, rolled in flour, arranged in a baking pan with bacon fat, sliced vegetables and sweet herbs, moistened with a little chicken gravy, another pan put over as a lid, baked, basted and turned till done and brown, taken up; gravy made in the pan they were cooked in, strained, skimmed and served with the chickens. CHICKEN CROQUETTES Cold roast chicken cut into very small dice mixed with minced mushrooms, seasoned with lemon juice, salt and nutmeg, boiled down thick in Veloute 1 sauce, turned into a shallow buttered pan, smoothed with a knife, covered with buttered paper; when cold, cut into even sized pieces, formed into cone shapes, breaded, fried, served with mushroom sauce poured around and garnished with croquette frills. MINCED CHICKEN CUTLETS. SAUCE BOR- DELAISE The croquette mixture preceding with the addition of a seasoning of minced fried shallots, thyme and chopped parsley; when cold, cut into even sized pieces, shaped like small lamb chops, using a piece of macaroni to represent the bone; breaded and fried; served with Bordelaise sauce poured around, and gar- nished with heart shaped croutons dipped in tomato sauce and sprinkled with chopped parsley. FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN Tender chickens cut into joints, seasoned with salt, pepper add lemon juice, rolled in flour, lightly fried in butter, then put into Vlout sauce and sim- mered till tender; Parisienne potatoes steamed, then plunged into boiling fat and lightly browned; button mushrooms sauteed in butter; the sauce the chickens were stewed in finished with a liaison of egg yolks and cream. Served, the chicken with sauce poured over, and sur- rounded with alternate potatoes and mushrooms. Fricassee of chicken may also be made of boiled chickens the same way, or using cold boiled ones; the garnish may also be omitted or changed to the fancy of the cook. CHICKEN PIE Chickens boiled whole till ten- der with an onion and piece of salt pork; when done, taken up, the breasts and legs pulled off, the back bones thrown into the stock, the legs cut in halves, the under breast separated, and if the upper breast is large, cut in two, if small left whole; the pork cut into dice, the chicken then put into baking dishes with the pork, sliced hard boiled eggs, raw Parisienne pota- toes and some chopped parsley; covered with a sauce made from the stock they were boiled in, reserving some o'f it, the pie then covered with short paste, egg washed and baked. In serv- ing give liberally of the gravy, using the re- served sauce to replenish the pie. CHICKEN POT PIE Chickens boiled with salt pork and a few vegetables till tender, taken up and cut as for chicken pie preceding, put into a pan; sauce made of the stock, seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon juice and chopped parsley, poured over the chickens; spoonfuls of dumpling mixture dropped close together all over it; baked and served. Or the chicken when cut up, may be put into another saucepan, covered with the sauce, dumplings put all over it, lid put on, and the dumplings cooked by thus having the sauce boiled round them. THE CULINARi' HANDBOOK. 47 CHICKEN SAUTE WITH RISSOTO Young chickens fried in joints, of a light color with mushrooms, taken up, gravy made in the pan they were fried in, strained over the chicken breast resting on a fancy crouton flanked with a slice of the tongue, Supreme sauce poured over the chicken, garnished with button mush- rooms, turned truffles, cocks-combs and kernels. in a sautoir, simmered till done, seasoned with SUPREME OF CHICKEN WITH RICE, SAUCE PERIGUEUX The supreme pre- pared as in the preceding; served, a bed of dry boiled rice, breast of chicken masked with Su- pr6me sauce on top, flanked with two slices of the tongue, and Pe"rigueux sauce poured around, simmered till rice is well cooked, adding more STEWED CHICKEN, TURKISH STYLE salt, pepper and a glass of sherry wine. Ris- soto made by cutting some ham fat into small dice and frying it with minced onion in a sau- toir, little curry powder added, then rice, moistened with white stock, lid put on and stock if required. Served, the chicken in sauce in the center of the dish, flanked with small domes of rissoto formed by filling small molds and turning them out for each order. SMALL CHICKEN PIES, FRENCH STYLE Boiled tender chickens, the stock well re- duced till of a full flavor, meat taken from the chickens, cut into flakes of an even size; thick sauce made of the stock, seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg and chopped parsley, poured to the chicken. Puff paste cut out with large circular cutter, egg washed and baked; when done the paste split, the lower half covered Young chickens boiled whole with a rack of mutton, (the part that is under the shoulder) in white stock; when the chicken is not quite done it is taken up and drained, placed in a sautoir with butter and sliced onions and fried a golden color, then taken up and cut into joints, the onions removed and washed rice put into the sautoir, moistened with the stock the chicken and mutton was boiled in, cooked till dry and tender, sauce made of the remaining stock sea- soned with a little cinnamon; served, a bed of the rice, a chop and joint of the chicken rest- ing on it, with the sauce poured over and around. with the chicken meat in sauce, top put on; served surrounded with small balls of potatoes CHICKEN WITH RICE, MALTESE STYLE steamed, then moistened with MSitre D'Hotel Young chickens roasted whole not quite done, then jointed, then braised for a few min- utes with minced onions, garlic, and a few cloves, then one part of tomato sauce and two parts of white stock is added to the chickens, and when boiled up, washed rice is added and the whole simmered till the rice is tender; butter. CUTLETS OF CHICKEN WITH VEGE- TABLES Spring chickens should be used- boiled not quite done in white stock, then allowed to become cold, the breasts and legs then taken off, making four cutlets to each chicken, leaving the leg and wing bones a little long and scraping the same, so that it resem- served, a bed of rice with joint of chicken on top and sauce Trianon poured around. bles a chop bone; seasoned with salt and ROAST CHICKEN, OYSTER SAUCE Young pepper, breaded and fried; served surrounded with Julienne vegetables mixed into Hollandaise sauce. FRIED FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN Neat shaped pieces of cold fricasseed chicken with the sauce adhering, rolled in bread crumbs, then breaded and fried; served with a white Italian sauce poured around. STEWED CHICKEN WITH TOMATOES The chickens jointed, seasoned with salt and pepper, placed in a sautoir with olive oil, pars- ley , some small onions and a clove of garlic, lid placed on and fried or simmered in their chickens drawn, singed, washed, wiped dry, filled with a stuffing made of blanched and chopped oysters, chopped parsley, fresh bread crumbs, salt, pepper, nutmeg and a dash of anchovy essence, trussed, roasted and basted till tender; served with some of the stuffing underneath and oyster sauce poured around; made by blanching the oysters, then cutting them into neat pieces, saute"eing them with butter and fine herbs; sauce made of the liquor from the blanching, seasoned with salt, pepper and a dash of anchovy essence, the saute'ed oysters and herbs then added. own steam till tender, taken up and gravy made STEWED CHICKEN, SPANISH STYLE in the-safltoir they were stewed in; served, the chicken with some gravy over it, garnished with fried slices of tomatoes sprinkled with parsley dust. SUPREME OF CHICKEN WITH TOU- LOUSE RAGOUT Breasts of young chickens that have been boiled whole, so that their shape is retained; skinned and trimmed to a pear Cold boiled chicken cut into joints, seasoned with salt, pepper and mixed ground spices, saute'ed in olive oil with minced shallots, garlic and chopped parsley; when colored, the surplus oil poured off, and Espagnole sauce added, simmered a few minutes; served with the sauce and garnished with slices of hard boiled (hot) eggs. shape, then saute'ed lightly in butter, taken up CHICKEN STUFFED WITH CHESTNUTS, and placed into a Supreme sauce and simmered MADEIRA SAUCE Chickens drawn, singed gently for a few minutes; slices of cooked and washed, then boiled till tender in white smoked tongue trimmed to a pear shape and stock, taken up, cooled, stuffed with chestnut heated with a little butter; served, the chicken forcemeat, trussed, roasted quickly, being bast- 4 8 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. ed with butter and flour, served with a rich Madeira sauce poured around. CHICKEN WITH CHESTNUT PUREE AND VEGETABLES Cold roast chickens cut into joints and trimmed, bone removed and its place filled with a stiff pure"e of chestnuts moistened with a little cream, together with the grated rind of a lemon, the stuffed joints then dipped rolled in flour, fried a golden brown with butter, placed into a sautoir, brown sauce made of the stock they were boiled in, strained over the fried chicken, simmered till tender, the cooked vegetables cut into large dice, mixed with cooked green peas, moistened with gravy and kept hot in it; served, the chicken in sauce sur- rounded with the vegetables. in limpid aspic jelly and allowed to set, then BRAISED CHICKEN WITH MACARONI- Old fowls singed, drawn, washed and wiped, then steamed for an hour, taken up, cut into joints, placed in a safltoir with vegetables and spices, moistened with Madeira sauce, lid put on, sautoir placed in hot oven and the chicken braised till tender, then taken up into another sautoir and the braise strained over them; macaroni in inch lengths boiled in stock with an onion; when done, drained, sprinkled with Parmesan cheese and chopped parsley; served, the chicken in sauce surrounded with the mac- aroni. BROILED CHICKEN, HUNTER'S STYLE Spring chickens singed, split down the back, backbone and breastbone removed, steeped for an hour in a mixture of olive oil, minced onions, chopped parsley, salt, pepper and lemon juice, taken up, rolled in fresh breadcrumbs, broiled well done; served with sauce Chasseur poured decorated with a piping of Ravigote butter; served, a cold dish covered with crisp lettuce leaves, at the ends a triangular shape of mace- doine of vegetables mixed with salad cream, the chicken joints resting on the salad, and tartar sauce in the center. ROAST CHICKEN WITH MUSHROOMS AND BREAD SAUCE- Young chickens drawn, singed, washed, trussed with slices of bacon tied over the breast, roasted and basted, and when nearly done the bacon removed and the breast browned; served with bread sauce at one end of the dish, saute"ed mushrooms in sauce as a border, also a garnish of fresh crisp watercress. CHICKENS, MARYLAND STYLE Spring chickens singed, split down the back, the breast bone and back bone removed, left in halves for restaurant, and the leg and breast separated , , around, and garnished with lemon and parsley, for hotel orders, makmg four portions of each EpIGRAMME K QF CHICKENi TO MATO SAUCE Young chickens singed, drawn, washed and wiped, blanched, taken up and separated into four joints, the breast and under breast seasoned with salt and pepper, then breaded, arranged in a buttered safltoir, roasted and basted till tender and brown, the legs boned, then filled with chicken forcemeat, braised and glazed; served, a fancy crouton in center of dish with a glazed leg and browned chicken; seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped in beaten eggs, then fresh bread crumbs, ar- ranged in baking pan with slices of bacon, brushed with melted butter, roasted and basted with the bacon fat till done; served, the chick- en resting on a corn fritter, flanked with two slices of the bacon, and a ladle of Bechamel sauce poured around. BOILED CHICKEN WITH SALT PORK. PARSLEY SAUCE Small chickens about two pounds each in weight, singed, drawn, washed breast resting on either side, and a rich tomato sauce poured around. and put to boil with a piece of salt pork, an BLANCHED CHICKEN WITH VELOUTE onion stuck with cloves, carrot and celery; when tender, taken up, the breasts and legs carefully removed, backbone and trimmings thrown back into the stock, the joints kept hot in white stock, the sauce made of the liquor they were boiled in; served, a breast or leg and under breast flanked with a slice of the pork, and the sauce poured around. FRIED CHICKEN IN BATTER, TOMATO SAUCE Spring chickens blanched whole, then separated (not cut) into four joints, steeped for an hour in a mixture of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, minced shallots, lemon juice and olive oil, then taken up and wiped, dipped into a batter, fried in hot fat; served with tomato sauce poured around. HARICOT OF CHICKEN WITH VEGE- TABLES Chickens singed, drawn and washed, SAUCE Young white fleshed chickens singed drawn, washed, trussed with a piece of butter size of an egg mixed with the juice of a lemon and a seasoning of salt and pepper in the inside of each; arranged in a sautoir with slices of lemon and fat bacon, moistened with a little white stock, lid put on, steamed in this way till tender; served, masked with Ve'loute 1 sauce, and garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. MATELOTE OF CHICKEN Young chickens singed, drawn, washed, simmered for half an hour in white stock, taken up, jointed, put into Ve'loute' sauce with a glass of white wine, sim- mered till tender, then is added small white onions, balls of carrot and turnip (some use parsnip) each of which has been boiled in con- somme with a pincn of sugar; served, the chicken in sauce, garnished with vegetables. then boiled whole with carrots, turnips and CHICKEN SAUTE WITH MUSHROOMS onions; when nearly done taken up and cut Young chickens singed, drawn, washed, cut into joints, seasoned with salt and pepper, into joints, seasoned with salt and pepper, THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. fried in oil with herbs and garlic, when brown, taken up and placed into a safitoir, button mushrooms then fried in the oil, taken up and put with the chickens, surplus oil then poured off, flour added to the pan, stirred, moistened with chicken stock and Madeira wine, boiled up, skimmed, strained over the chickens, which are then simmered till tender; served garnished with the mushrooms (called, CHICKEN a la MARENGO). CHICKEN STUFFED AND STEWED, SAUCE MILANAISE Young chickens singed, drawn, washed, filled with a stuffing made of grated lean ham, chopped hard boiled eggs, fresh bread crumbs, chopped parsley, minced shal- lots, juice of a lemon, and a seasoning of thyme, trussed, arranged in a sautoir, covered with white stock, lid placed on, simmered and basted till tender; served in joints with some of the stuffing underneath, and Milanaise sauce poured around. FRIED CHICKEN WITH CUCUMBER PUREE Spring chickens singed, split down the back, separated into four joints, backbone and breastbone removed, blanched in white stock for a few minutes, then taken up and coated with thick cucumber sauce, rolled in bread crumbs, then breaded, fried; served sur- rounded with a puree of cucumbers. STEWED CHICKEN WITH DUMPLINGS Young chickens singed, drawn, washed and jointed, arranged in saucepan with carrot, onion, celery and turnip, moistened with white stock, simmered till tender, taken up, sauce made of the stock, the vegetables rubbed through a sieve into the finished sauce, dump- lings steamed; served, the chicken in center of dish, dumpling at each end, sauce poured over the whole, sprinkled with parsley dust. FRIED CHICKEN, INDIAN STYLE Spring chickens blanched whole, then jointed, sea- soned with salt, pepper and rubbed with curry powder, fried brown in butter; served with a garnish of stewed onions. BRAISED FILLETS OF CHICKEN, HAN- OVER SAUCE Old fowls singed, drawn, washed, steamed for an hour, then cut into fillets, arranged in a sautoir with spices and vegetables, moistened with consomme 1 , braised till tender and the consomme' has reduced to half glaze, fillets taken up into another sautoir, the braise strained into an Hanover sauce and poured over the chicken; served with it and garnished with fancy croutons. CHICKEN CURRIED, WITH RICE Young chickens singed, drawn, washed, boiled for an hour in white stock, taken up, drained, cut into joints, seasoned with salt, rolled in flour, fried brown in butter with sliced onions and a clove of garlic, chicken then taken up and placed in- to a sa-utoir, sprinkled with curry powder and flour, shook together, moistened with the strained stock they were boiled in, simmered till tender, with the addition of a grated green apple and the juice of a lemon; served in the center of a border of dry boiled rice. BLANQUETTE OF CHICKEN WITH TRUF- FLES Young white chickens singed, drawn, washed, arranged in a sautoir with slices of fat bacon and some lemon juice, moistened with white stock, lid put on and simmered till tender, taken up and cut into joints, placed into another sautoir, bacon and grease removed, Be'chamel sauce then poured in, boiled up, skimmed, strained over the chickens; served with it, sprinkled with minced truffle peelings. SPITCHCOCKED CHICKEN, CRAPAUDINE SAUCE Spring chickens singed, split, washed, backbone and breastbone removed, trussed out like a frog, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in olive oil, broiled well done; served on toast with crapaudine sauce poured around, garnished with parsley and lemon. STEWED CHICKEN WITH RICE Young chickens singed, split, jointed, fried with olive oil in a saiitoir; when brown, surplus oil poured off, minced green peppers and onions with a clove of garlic (crushed) then added and fried a little more, lightly sprinkled with flour, shook together, moistened with consomme, lid placed on and simmered till tender and glazy, then is added some slices of pimentoes and chutney with a glass of Madeira wine, boiled up; served within a border of dry. boiled rice that has been very slightly flavored and colored with curry. STEWED CHICKEN, MEXICAN STYLE Young chickens singed, split, jointed, fried with olive oil in a sautoir till brown, taken up in another sautoir, ham and garlic then fried in the oil of a light color, surplus oil poured off the onions, etc., then moistened with equal parts of tomato and Espagnole sauces, seasoned with thyme, sage, marjoram and sweet pepper, simmered for half an hour, skimmed, strained over the chickens which are then simmered till tender; raw tomatoes peeled and the seeds re- moved, cut into pieces and stewed down thick with chili sauce; served, the chicken in sauce with fancy croutons at ends of dish, garnished at the sides with the tomato and chili mixture. BRAISED CHICKENS WITH GREEN PEP- PERS Young chickens singed, drawn, washed, filled with a stuffing made by boiling yellow corn meal with chicken stock to mush; when done, mixed with fresh grated breadcrumbs, parmesan cheese, butter, salt and pepper, trussed with slices of bacon tied over the breast, arranged in a safitoir with onions, carrot, pars- ley, bay leaves, cloves and a crushed clove of garlic, moistened with consomme 1 , braised till tender and glazy, taken up, braise strained and skimmed, then added to some Espagnole sauce containing green peppers sliced, and a seasoning of curry powder; served, the chick- ens in portions with stuffing underneath, sauce poured over, garnished with the peppers. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. BOILED CHICKEN WITH VEGETABLES, ALLEMANDE SAUCE Old fowls singed, drawn, washed and trussed, put into saucepan with carrot, celery and onions, covered with salted water, lid put on, saucepan then placed in hot oven, chickens simmered till tender (about three hours), taken up, Allemande sauce made from the remaining stock; small balls of carrot simmered in consomme till tender, a can each of lima beans and flageolets opened and washed, then mixed with the carrot balls, sea- soned with salt, sugar and red pepper; served, the chicken in joints with sauce poured over, and garnished with the mixed vegetables drained out of the consomme'. BOILED LARDED CHICKEN WITH MAC- ARONI Old fowls singed, drawn, washed, the breasts larded, trussed, arranged in sauce- pan with carrot, onions and celery, covered with salted water, lid put on, simmered in hot oven till tender; a rich yellow sauce made from the reduced liquor, macaroni broken in inch lengths and boiled in salted water till done, taken up, drained, seasoned with paprika, par- mesan cheese and a little of the sauce for the chickens; served, the birds in joints with the sauce poured over and sprinkled with parsley dust, garnished with the macaroni. STEWED CHICKENS WITH ESTRAGON Old fowls singed, drawn, jointed, washed, put into a sautoir with some fat from the top of the stock pot, a few veal trimmings, a bunch of tarragon and some sherry wine, covered with white stock, lid put on and simmered in a hot oven till tender, then taken up into another sautoir, the remaining stock strained, skimmed, and added to a rich Poulette sauce containing chopped tarragon leaves; served, the chicken covered with the sauce and garnished with slices of hard boiled (hot) eggs. BRAISED CHICKENS WITH VEGETABLES Old fowls singed, drawn, washed, the breasts larded, trussed, arranged in saucepan with some bacon trimmings, spices and vegetables, moistened with white stock and Madeira sauce in equal parts, lid put on, simmered in hot oven till tender, taken up, the braise strained and skimmed, then poured over the chickens; cans of macedoines opened and washed, then kept hot in consomme"; served, the chickens in joints with the sauce over, garnished with the vegetables drained from the consomme". BRAISED CHICKENS WITH MUSHROOMS Old fowls prepared, bacon tied over the breast, arranged in a sautoir with vegetables and spices, moistened with consomme, lid put on, then braised till tender and glazy, taken up, braise skimmed, strained and added to button mushrooms that have been sauteed with butter and then mixed into Be"chamel sauce; served, the glazed pieces of chicken resting on neat shaped pieces of toast surrounded with the mushrooms in sauce. CHAUDFROID OF CHICKEN Spring chick- ens a pound and a half each in weight, singed, drawn, washed, trussed, wrapped in buttered paper, roasted without browning, taken up and allowed to cool in the paper, then separated into four joints, neatly trimmed; equal parts of aspic jelly and Poulette sauce made warm enough to mix, then stirred surrounded with broken ice till thick, the chicken then dipped into it, then arranged on a baking sheet to set; when set, decorate them with slices of truffles; the remaining sauce filled into timbale molds that have been lined with aspic jelly and set; served, the chicken joint resting on a crouton of aspic jelly, with the timbale turned out on the end of the chicken, the other end garnished with watercress. CHARTREUSE OF CHICKEN WITH STRING BEANS Cold cooked chicken three- fifths; lean cooked ham and fresh grated bread crumbs each one-fifth; the meats cut into very small squares, mixed with the crumbs together with some chopped chervil, capers and a sea- soning of tarragon vinegar, salt and red pepper; moistened with stock and beaten raw eggs; filled into buttered molds within half an inch of the top, lids put on and steamed for an hour; allow them to slightly cool before turning out; served, in slices surrounded with French string beans (haricots verts) taken from the cans; washed, then heated in Veloute" sauce. DEVILLED CHICKEN LEGS WITH BACON Skinned tender chicken legs, scored, laid for an hour in a mixture of olive oil, Worcester- shire sauce, lemon juice, red pepper and an- chovy essence, then taken up and slowly broiled; served resting on a crouton, garnished with strips of bacon, and some sauce Diable. CHICKEN FORCEMEAT White meat of cooked chicken three parts; white bread soaked in chicken stock, then squeezed dry, one part; pounded together to a paste with two ounces of outter to each pound of meat, seasoned with salti pepper, nutmeg and a little lemon juice, then rubbed through a fine sieve and mixed to a stiff consistency with egg yolks and cold Ve"loute" sauce. CHICKEN FORCEMEAT BALLS CURRIED, WITH RICE Balls of the preceding force- meat poached in a good curry sauce; served with it, being arranged on the serving dish alternately with small molds of dry boiled rice. FILLETS OF CHICKEN WITH ASPARAGUS POINTS Spring chickens one and a half pounds each in weight, singed, drawn, washed, boiled just done, taken up, cooled, skinned, separated into four joints neatly trimmed, re- heated in a rich Villeroi sauce; served masked with it, garnished with asparagus points sea- soned with butter. CHICKEN CUTLETS WITH GREEN PEAS Spring chickens singed, drawn, washed, steamed not quite done, taken up, cooled, skin- THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 51 ned, separated into four joints, seasoned with spoons; poached in white stock till they float, salt, pepper and nutmeg, dipped in cooling Vil- taken up and rolled in fried sifted bread crumbs; leroi sauce, then in bread crumbs, then breaded served surrounded with button mushrooms in and arranged in a buttered baking pan, roasted Ve'loute' sauce. and basted till brown and frothy; served sur- RISSOLES OF CHICKEN The salpicon as rounded with green peas moistened with con- given for "Kromeskies" when cold, cut out somme and butter. with a circular cutter, two sheets of puff paste SCALLOPED CHICKEN Cold cooked chicken rolled out thin, the chicken placed over one meat cut into thin slices, moistened with Alle- sheet, covered with the other, stamped out with mande sauce, filled into scallop shells or oval a fancy edged cutter, ananged on a baking deep dishes, sprinkled with fresh bread crumbs sheet, brushed over with egg wash and baked, mixed with Parmesan cheese, salt, red pepper SAUTE OF CHICKEN WITH BOUCHEES and nutmeg, then with melted butter, arranged Spring chickens singed, drawn, washed, then on a baking sheet, heated and browned; served steamed for five minutes, then separated into in the shell or dish, garnished with watercress. four joints neatly trimmed, scraping the little CHICKEN KROMESKIES, SAUCE PERI- meat off the wing and leg shanks to form GUEUX Cooked chicken and tongue, button handles; seasoned with salt, pepper and pow- mushrooms and truffles all cut into very small dered thyme, fried brown with butter, then put squares and boiled down thick in a rich Ve'loute' into Madeira sauce and simmered till tender; sauce, a liaison of egg yolks and cream added served, resting against a crouton with frills on just at the finish, then turned into a buttered the shanks, sauce poured over the meat, gar- shallow pan, smoothed with a palette knife, nished with very small patties filled with covered with buttered paper and allowed to salpicon. become cold, then cut into even sized pieces, VOL-AU-VENT OF CHICKEN WITH QUE- formed to the shape of long corks, wrapped NELLES Large patty shells with separate round with a thin slice of cold boiled bacon or covers filled with a salpicon of chicken, cover udder, pinned with a toothpick, dipped into then placed on, served with Madeira sauce batter and fried, toothpick then removed; poured under, and garnished with small served with Perigueux sauce. poached chicken quenelles. SALPICON OF CHICKEN WITH POTATOES ROAST BONED CHICKEN Large old fowls Cooked chicken, tongue, mushrooms and and young hens singed, skin laid open down truffles cut into small squares and made hot in the back and all bones removed, the old ones a rich Poulette sauce; served, the serving dish then laid out flat skin side down, seasoned with bordered with mashed potatoes forced from a salt, pepper, nutmeg and powdered thyme, al- bag and fancy tube, sprinkled with parsley ternate strips of larding pork and red cooked dust, the salpicon in the center. tongue then placed lengthwise down the center, CHICKEN PATTIES, SAUCE SUPREME then covered with forcemeat, the young hen The preceding salpicon, but cut smaller, filled without skin laid on top of it so that the white into patty shells; served with Supreme sauce meat covers the dark meat of the fowl, outer poured around. skin of the fowl then drawn together and sewn STEWED CHICKEN, GERMAN STYLE close, leaving no apertures; again sewn up into Old fowls singed, drawn, washed and trussed, a cloth, steamed for an hour, cloth then re- arranged in a saucepan with grated green ap- moved, roasted and basted till well done and pies and onions, covered with stock, simmered tender, taken up, pressed; when cold, string in hot oven till tender, Allemande sauce made removed, glazed; served cold in slices with from the reduced liquor, noodles boiled in salad. stock till tender, taken up and drained, then BOILED BONED CHICKEN Same as the mixed with some of the sauce; served, the preceding, but instead of steaming, it is sim- chicken masked with sauce, surrounded with mered till tender in white stock containing noodles. vegetables; when done, taken up, pressed in CHICKEN QUENELLE FORCEMEAT Raw the cloth; when cold, cloth and string removed, skinless chicken meat with a little beef suet all adhering grease removed with a hot cloth, it minced, pounded together to a paste, rubbed is then glazed; served cold in slices with salad, through a fine sieve with some bread that has GALANTINE OF CHICKEN Galantine molds been soaked in milk and squeezed dry, seasoned placed in a pan of broken ice, salt and water, with finely chopped parsley, grated lemon rind, limpid aspic jelly poured in to coat the sides, salt, red pepper and nutmeg, worked to a stiff which is then decorated with peas, strips of consistency with raw egg yolks beaten with a tongue, stamped slices of truffle and whites of little cream. hard boiled eggs, etc., the decorations then CHICKEN QUENELLES WITH MUSH- coated with more limpid jelly and allowed to ROOMS The forcemeat preceding made into set, the interior then filled with slices of boned balls or shaped like eggs between two dessert chicken and limpid jelly till full, (always see THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. that the slices of chicken are placed on edge, NOT LAID FLAT! so that when it is turned out, the slices may be removed with the jelly adhering merely by the use of a fork). When set, the mold is slightly warmed with a hot cloth, then turned out, the dish garnished with croutons of aspic jelly, cress, crisp shred let- tuce, fancy slices of pickled beet, or variations at the cook's fancy. FRIED BREAST OF CHICKEN WITH CORN FRITTERS Spring chickens singed, drawn, washed and simmered barely done, taken up, cooled, skinned, breasts removed, seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg and powdered thyme, rolled in melted butter, then in flour, then in beaten eggs and fried in hot fat, taken up and drained; served with sauce Supreme poured under, and garnished with small corn fritters and watercress. BREAST OF CHICKEN STEAMED, SAUCE SUPREME Spring chickens singed, drawn, washed, trussed and steamed till done, taken up, breasts removed and skinned, then put into Supreme sauce and served with it, garnished with kidney beans (flageolets). BROILED CHICKEN LEGS WITH GREEN PEAS The steamed legs of the preceding re- cipe, skinned, then laid for an hour in a mix- ture of olive oil, lemon juice, red pepper, salt and Worcestershire sauce, then broiled slowly to a golden color; served with a frill on the shank, resting on a slice of buttered toast, gar- nished with French peas made hot in tomato sauce. FRIED SPRING CHICKEN WITH ARTI- CHOKE BOTTOMS Spring chickens singed, split down the back, breastbone and backbone removed, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, then in beaten eggs and fried in hot fat till done; artichoke bottoms spread with chicken forcemeat arranged in a sautoir, moist- ened with a very little consomme', reduced and glazed, the chicken served with a little Colbert sauce, and garnished with the bottoms. FRIED SPRING CHICKEN WITH HOMINY FRITTERS The chickens prepared and fried as in the preceding; fine hominy boiled down to mush, cooled, cut in shapes, then breaded and fried, the chicken served with cream sauce and a strip of broiled bacon, garnished with the fritters. FRIED CHICKEN WITH RICE AND OKRAS Cold joints of cooked chicken dipped in thick cold tomato sauce, then in bread crumbs, then breaded and arranged in a buttered baking pan, roasted and basted with butter till brown and frothy; rice boiled dry, then mixed with boiled fresh or canned okras and a little tomato sauce, the chicken served with a little tomato sauce, and garnished with small mounds of the rice and okras turned out of a timbale mold. DEVILLED SPRING CHICKEN WITH GREEN PEAS Spring chickens singed, split down the back, breastbone and backbone re" moved, thigh bone snapped, seasoned, laid for an hour in Worcestershire sauce, olive oil, tarragon vinegar, chopped chives and chervil, taken up, rolled in flour, then in melted butter and slowly broiled well done; served with Diable sauce, and garnished with French peas that have been washed, drained and sauteed in butter. FILLETS OF CHICKEN WITH CARDINAL SAUCE Spring chickens singed, split, breast- bone and backbone removed, thigh bone snap- ped, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour and fried a golden brown with butter; served with Cardinal sauce poured under and around, garnished with slices of truffles that have been stewed in sherry wine. STUFFED BREAST OF CHICKEN, PERI- GUEUX SAUCE Breasts of young chickens split open and filled with quenelle forcemeat, arranged in a safltoir with slices of salt pork, white stock and butter, simmered till tender; served resting on fancy croutons with perigueux sauce. STEWED CHICKEN, SAUCE RAVIGOTE Old fowls singed, drawn, washed, jointed, then arranged in a sautoir with nutmeg, lemon, celery and sliced onions, moistened with white stock, lid put on, simmered in hot oven till tender. Chives, parsley, shallots, chervil and tarragon shred and blanched, onion rings steamed till tender; served, the chicken with ravigote sauce poured around, garnished wiih rings of onions filled with the blanched herbs. STEWED CHICKEN, SAUCE PROVENCALE Young chickens singed, drawn, washed, jointed, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, sauteed in olive oil with minced shal- lots and garlic, taken up into another sautoir with sliced tomatoes, moistened with claret wine and Espagnole sauce, simmered till ten- der, finished with lemon juice ?nd chopped parsley; served with the sauce and tomatoes. SPRING CHICKEN IN BATTER WITH FRIED ONIONS Spring chickens singed, split, backbone and breastbone removed, thigh bone snapped, blanched in white stock a few minutes, taken up and drained, seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg and powdered thyme, then dipped in batter and slowly fried in hot fat; rings of onions steamed for a few minutes, then dipped in milk, then flour, fried crisp in hot fat; served as a garnish to the chicken. STUFFED BREAST OF CHICKEN WITH CUCUMBERS Breasts of spring chickens that have been steamed whole not quite done, trimmed, spread with chicken forcemeat, then dipped in beaten eggs, then sprinkled with grated lean cooked ham, minced truffle peelings and breadcrumbs, arranged in a baking pan, moistened with a little melted butter, slowly heated and browned; served garnished with a pure"e of cucumbers. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 53 CHICKEN SAUSAGES, SAUCE HOLLAN- shred and blanched, both mixed and simmered DAISE Raw chicken meat without skin three- in a rich Ve"lout6 sauce; served on toast, fifths, cooked chicken meat one-fifth, cooked MINCED CHICKEN WITH POACHED EGG tongue and mushrooms mixed one-fifth, all minced together, seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg and powdered thyme, formed into sau- sage shapes, lightly breaded, arranged in bak- ing pan with bacon trimmings and butter, Cold cooked chicken without skin cut into very small squares, mixed into and heated with Be'chamel sauce; served on toast with a trim- med poached egg on top, the yolk sprinkled with parsley dust, slowly roasted and basted till done; served CHICKEN HASH WITH STUFFED PEP- with Hollandaise sauce. SOUFFLES OF CHICKEN Breasts of raw chicken pounded to a paste, then rubbed through a fine sieve and mixed with separately beaten whites and yolks of eggs, seasoned with butter, cream, salt, red pepper, nutmeg and lemon juice, filled into fancy paper cases, the PERS Small green peppers split, cleaned and blanched, filled with chicken forcemeat, ar- ranged in a sautoir, moistened with a little consomme 1 , lid put on and simmered till done; the minced chicken on toast of the preceding recipe served garnished with the stuffed peppers. top sprinkled with sifted bread crumbs and CHICKEN FRITTERS, PIQUANTE SAUCE melted butter, slowly baked, the served imme- Cold roast tender chicken in joints, laid for diately. an hour in vinegar with chopped chives, taken CHICKEN QUENELLES WITH TRUFFLES, up , breaded and fried; served with Piquante SAUCE SUPREME Chicken quenelle force- sauce. meat shaped like eggs between two spoons, CHICKEN PANADA WITH EGGS ON poached in seasoned white stock, taken up and drained, then dipped in Supreme sauce; served with it, arranged on serving dish in fours, two of them sprinkled with minced truffle peelings. CANNELON OF CHICKEN, TARTAR SAUCE Cannelon case made of puff paste (see Can- nelons) filled with chicken forcemeat, slowly TOAST Cold cooked chicken without skin minced and pounded to a paste, then rubbed through a fine sieve, seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, mixed with an equal quantity of fresh bread crumbs, moistened with cream, made hot; served heaped high on toast with a trimmed poached egg on top. heated through; served with tartar sauce, gar- p O TTED CHICKEN FOR SANDWICHES Two parts of cold cooked chicken meat without skin, one part cooked ham, one part butter, the meat minced and pounded to a paste with the butter, then rubbed through a fine sieve, sea- soned with mace, salt, red pepper and nutmeg, packed into small jars, sealed with melted but- ter, and stored away in ice box for use. TIMBALES OF CHICKEN WITH FORCE- MEAT BALLS Timbale molds lined with a quenelle forcemeat, then filled with scallops of braised chicken and slices of mushrooms and truffles, the bottom then covered with force- meat, molds arranged in a baking pan contain- ing a little water, baked till set; served turned out with sauce Bressoise poured around, and garnished with small balls of poached force- meat. nished with watercress. CHICKEN FORCEMEAT FRIED, TOMATO SAUCE Chicken forcemeat rolled with pointed ends size of a finger, resembling a cigar in shape, breaded, fried; served with tomato sauce. SAUT6 OF CHICKEN WITH RICE AND LEEKS Young chickens singed, drawn, washed, jointed, seasoned with salt and pepper, then lightly sauteed with minced onions and ham in butter, taken up into a sautoir, sauce made in the pan they were fried in, strained over the chickens, simmered till tender, rice boiled dry; then mixed with some of the sauce; served as a border to the chicken, which is further garnished with fried shredded leeks. CHICKEN SAUTE WITH POTATO BALLS Spring chickens singed, drawn, washed, CHICKEN SAUTE WITH OYSTERS Large steamed for five minutes, then taken up and separated into four neat joints, seasoned with salt and pepper, fried with butter to a golden color; balls scooped out of raw potatoes steamed nearly done, then fried in butter like the chick- ens, both of which are then sprinkled with fine parsley; served, the joints dipped in hot Col- bert sauce surrounded with the potatoes. CROUSTADES OF CHICKEN Fancy crofls- tades made of paste filled with a salpifon of chicken; garnished with watercress. CHICKEN HASH WITH PEPPERS ON TOAST Cold cooked chicken without skin cut into very small squares, green peppers oysters blanched and drained; young chickens singed, drawn, blanched, jointed, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, fried in butter, taken up into a sautoir, gravy made in the pan they were fried in, using stock and the strained oyster liquor, boiled up and skimmed, then strained over the chicken, which is now sim* mered till tender; the oysters sprinkled with parsley and sauteed in butter for each order; served, the chicken in joints garnished with tha oysters saute'es. CAPILOTADE OF CHICKEN Cold roast chickens cut into neatly trimmed joints, ar- ranged in a sautoir, covered with a brown 54 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. Italian sauce, simmered in it for fifteen minutes .STEWED CHICKEN LIVERS WITH MUSH- then served garnished with fancy croutons. ROOMS The preceding stew placed in the COLLOPS OF CHICKEN WITH MACAR- center of dish without toast, and served sur- ONI Cold cooked chicken without skin cut rounded with button mushrooms that have been into thin slices about the size of a quarter of a saute"ed in butter and sprinkled with chopped dollar, made hot in a rich Bechamel sauce; chervil. macaroni broken into inch lengths, boiled in CHICKEN LIVERS IN CASES The livers boiling salted water, taken up and drained, sautees above cut in dice, filled into fancy then mixed with Parmesan cheese and a little paper cases, that have been lined with chicken Bechamel sauce; served, the macaroni as a forcemeat and heated; mushrooms and truffles border sprinkled with parsley dust, the chicken in dice to be added to the livers, piled high in the center, garnished with strips CHICKEN LIVER FORCE MEAT Equal of cooked red tongue. weight of blanched chicken livers and lean HASHED CHICKEN AND HAM WITH RICE cooked ham with two ounces of butter to each Chicken cut the same as in the preceding pound of meat *he meat minced, pounded to a recipe, thin slices of lean cooked ham cut out paste, rubbed through a fine sieve, then thor- with a column cutter, both mixed and made oughly incorporated with the butter, together hot in Veloute" sauce. Rice washed and then with a little puree of mushrooms and truffles, boiled in chicken broth till moisture is all gone seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg and chop- and the grains soft, then mixed with a liaison P e( i parsley, then stored for use. of egg yolks and Ve-loute" sauce, seasoned with BROCHETTEOR CROUSTADES OF CHICK- red pepper and nutmeg; served, the rice as a EN LIVERS For recipes of which see "BRO- border, the ham and chicken in sauce piled CHETTE" and "CROUSTADE". high in the center. OMELET OF CHICKEN LIVERS The livers GIBLET AND POTATO PIE Gizzards, hearts, blanched then cut in slices with mushrooms, livers, necks and second joints of the wings of saute"ed in butter, moistened with wine and chickens stewed tender with pieces of salt pork, brown sauce, seasoned with salt, pepper and then put in a baking pan with slices of hard lemon juice, sprinkled with chopped parsley, boiled eggs, chopped parsley and a glass of enclosed within a savory omelet; served with sherry wine, (having plenty of sauce) the pie more of the livers in sauce poured around. then covered three-quarters of an inch thick ROAST CHICKEN LIVERS ON TOAST with mashed potatoes, edges crimped, washed Blanched chicken livers masked all over with over with beaten egg and baked. "chicken liver forcemeat" then wrapped in GIBLET PIE Pie pans lined on the sides with buttered paper, arranged in a baking pan and thin short paste, filled with the stewed giblets baked for fifteen minutes, taken up, paper re- of the preceding recipe, covered with short moved; served on toast with Madeira sauce paste, egg washed and baked. poured around. GIBLET POT PIE The preceding stewed gib. RAGOUT OF CHICKEN GIBLETS WITH lets either kept hot in the sautoir and dump- POTATO CROQUETTES Livers, hearts, lings dropped over it, lid put on and simmered gizzards, pieces of salt pork and button mush- till dumplings are done; or the stew turned into rooms sauteed, then mixed with Madeira sauce, a baking pan, the dumplings dropped close placed in center of dish garnished with small together all over it, then put in oven till dump- potato croquettes, lings are done. GIBLET SAUCE Gizzards, hearts and necks STEWED CHICKEN GIBLETS WITH RI3E boiled till tender with an onion, livers blanched, Hearts, gizzards, livers, necks and second then sauteed with butter, taken up, sauce made joints of the wings of chickens, also small in the pan they were sautued in with the stock pieces of raw salt pork and minced onions, all from the giblets; livers, hearts and meat from fried lightly with butter, then sprinkled with the gizzards then cut fine and mixed into the flour, shook together, moistened with stock, sauce, seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, simmered till tender, seasoned with salt, pepper finished with sherry wine and chopped parsley. and a bunch of sweet herbs (which are to be CHICKEN GIBLET SOUP Gizzards, hearts, removed when done); served in the center of a ' necks and wings boiled till tender with some border of dry boiled rice, or barley, or oatmeal. roast fowl bones in chicken stock, hearts and SAUTE OF CHICKEN LIVERS ON TOAST gizzards then taken up and cut into dice to- The livers with gall removed, washed and gether with some sauteed livers, roux made and wiped, then sauteed with minced onions in moistened with the stock, boiled up and skim- butter, taken up into a sautoir, seasoned with med; washed rice, finely cut carrots, turnips, salt, pepper and lemon juice, moistened with and onions then boiled in the soup till tender, Madeira wine and Espagnole sauce, simmered then is added the cut meats; finished by sea- for a few minutes; served on toast garnished soning with Worcestershire sauce, sherry wine, with croutons. salt, pepper and nutmeg. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 55 PUREE OF CHICKEN Roux made and moist- soned with salt and red pepper, then strained ened with chicken stock, cream and almond into another saucepan, containing flowerets of milk, when boiling, further thickened with some cooked cauliflower balls of cooked carrot, cooked chicken meat that has been pounded pieces of chicken meat, and some poached and rubbed through a fine sieve, seasoned with quenelles of chicken forcemeat, half of them to salt, nutmeg and red pepper; small squares of be colored green. cooked breast of chicken then added; served PUREE OF CHICKEN WITH TOMATOED with small croutons. QUENELLES A puree of chicken soup CHICKEN SOUP WITH VEGETABLES strained into another saucepan containing Cold roast fowl bones and gravy with some poached quenelles that have had a stiff tomato vegetable trimmings boiled in stock till well pure"e worked into the forcemeat; seasoned and flavored, roux made and moistened with the served. strained stock, boiled up and skimmed, shred- CHICKEN SOUP WITH RICE AND LEEKS ded cooked vegetables and shreds of chicken Poultry stock slightly thickened with roux, then added and served. plenty of shredded leeks boiled in it with some CHICKEN CONSOMME A few veal bones rice; when done and seasoned, pieces of chicken and chopped veal trimmings, slices of carrot, meat added. (The Scotch call this soup onions, celery, with whole mace, salt, red "COCK-A-LEEKIE"). pepper, broken egg shells and beaten whites of CHICKEN SOUP, CREOLE STYLE Raw eggs, stirred together with a little broken clean chicken meat cut into small pieces and fried ice, then moistened with skimmed and strained with minced onions in olive oil, then little flour poultry stock that has had a piece of salt pork added, stirred, moistened with consomme", boiled in it, brought slowly to the boil, then boiled up and skimmed, then is added shred simmered till clear, strained through a towel; lean ham and green peppers, simmered for half small squares of breast of cooked chicken then an hour, then raw peeled and sliced tomatoes added, seasoned (but use no wine) and served. together with well washed rice and a bunch of CHICKEN BROTH WITH RICE The strained soup herbs is simmered in it till done. and skimmed stock in which fowls and a piece CHICKEN SOUP, PORTUGUESE STYLE of salt pork and some vegetables have been Raw chicken meat cut small together with boiled, is slightly thickened with corn starch, minced onions fried in butter, flour added and dry boiled rice, and pieces of chicken meat stirred, moistened with poultry stock, boiled then added, seasoned and served. up and skimmed, then is added a Julienne of CHICKEN GUMBO Roast chicken bones. vegetables and a little well washed rice, sim- minced onion and some ham knuckle meat fried mered till done, seasoned and served, in butter with a few bay leaves and a pod of CHICKEN SOUP, SOUTHERN STYLE Raw red pepper, flour then added, moistened with chicken meat cut small, minced onions, shred- poultry stock, boiled up and skimmed, a half ded green peppers all fried together with butter, roasted chicken then added and simmered till little flour then added and stirred, moistened tender; chicken then taken up and the stock with poultry stock, seasoned lightly with curry strained into another saucepan in which is powder, salt and red pepper, boiled up and either canned okra, okra powder, or fresh okra skimmed, then is added equal quantities of lima sliced, also some boiled rice and pieces of beans and sugar corn together with half their chicken meat; boiled up till greeny and gela- bulk of okras; simmered till done, tinous; seasoned and served. CHICKEN SOUP, TURKISH STYLE Shred- CREAM OF CHICKEN Some veal bones and ded raw chicken meat, ham and green peppers trimmings with a little whole mace, celery and with sliced onions fried together with butter, onions are boiled in poultry stock, cold cooked little flour added and stirred, moistened with chicken meat pounded, then rubbed through a consomme", boiled up and skimmed, seasoned sieve, moistened with the skimmed and strained with si.lt, red pepper and a dash of curry pow- stock, boiled up, seasoned with salt, red pepper der, then is added washed rice and tomato and nutmeg, then finished with some boiling pure"e equaling half the bulk of the stock; when cream. rice is done, served. CREAM OF CHICKEN WITH RICE Roux CHICKEN SOUP, ENGLISH STYLE Roux made and moistened with strong poultry stock, made, moistened with poultry stock, boiled up boiled up and skimmed, little boiling cream and skimmed, then is added a liaison of egg then added together with pieces of chicken yolks and cream, when thickened, strained into meat and dry boiled rice; seasoned with salt a tureen containing squares of cooked chicken and red pepper. meat and chopped chervil, seasoned and served. CREAM OF CHICKEN WITH QUENELLES CHICKEN BROTH WITH CUSTARDS Roux made and moistened with poultry Good poultry stock seasoned, then lightly thick- stock, boiled up and skimmed, then is worked ened with corn starch, strained into a tureen into it a liaison of egg yolks and cream; sea- containing a macedoine of vegetables and shapes 56 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. of custard made by taking twelve yolks of eggs mixed shredded lettuce and endive, seasoned and a pint of cold chicken broth seasoned with with French dressing. salt and red pepper, thoroughly mixed without CHICKEN SALAD Two parts of mayonnaise beating, then poured into buttered pans, and one part of limpid aspic jelly beaten to- steamed till set, cut into shapes when cold. gether, individual patty pans or timbale molds CHICKEN BROTH WITH ASPARAGUS decorated and lined with the beaten mixture, TIPS Same as the preceding, using the shapes then filled with scallops of chicken dressed with of custards but substituting asparagus tips for Remoulade sauce, a few capers and slices of the macedoine of vegetables. stoned olives, covered with some of the beaten CHICKEN BROTH WITH SPRING VEGE- mixture, set till firm, then turned out on to a TABLES Strong poultry stock thickened very bed of shredded lettuce garnished with shred- lightly with corn starch, seasoned, boiled up ded anchovies and gherkins, and skimmed, then further thickened with CHICKEN MAYONNAISE Cold roast chickens young tender carrots, turnips, green onions. cut into joints, steeped for an hour in a mixture leeks and green cabbage all cut into small dice- of salt - Pepper, olive oil and tarragon vinegar, boiled in the stock with a handful of rice til 1 then taken U P and masked with mayonnaise done, then is added squares of chicken meat; sauce - served on shred lettuce, garnished with seasoned and served. quartered hard boiled eggs, pickled beets and CHICKEN BROTH WITH ARTICHOKES stoned olives or pimentoes. Strong poultry stock thickened lightly with corn C H c KEN MAYONNAISE Boned roasted starch, seasoned, boiled up and skimmed, then chicken, pressed, sliced, coated with mayon- further thickened with a liaison of egg yolks naise - served garnished with green peas and and cream, strained into a tureen with chicken asparagus points that are dressed with French meat and diced artichokes. dressing, and cubes of savory jelly. CHICKEN BROTH WITH POACHED EGG CHIFFONADE French term for a mixture of Same as "Chicken Broth with Custards" but shredded sorrel, lettuce, chervil and parsley substituting a soft poached egg for each plate. J hat 1S us . ed lo P ut in SOU P S a few minutes be- CHICKEN BROTH WITH SORREL Strong ^JV^T^! * ^' t r. i- .... , . , .. . CHIPOLATA Name of an Italian garnish com- poultry stock thickened with a liaison of egg Q{ ^ ^ ^ es ^ yolks and cream seasoned, strained into a carrot and chestnuts tureen containing boiled vermicelli and stewed p - eces of broiled P bacon and J^ mushrooms ; CHICKEN SOUP WITH NOODLES - Strong er winS * * " Ch bf Wn SaUC6 flaV red wUh poultry stock thickened with flour and butter, CHIVES A flavoring herb of the onion species seasoned with salt, red pepper and nutmeg, grows like the tops o{ spdng onions de Q straining it afterwards into a tureen containing in color and yery strong in flavor; such dishes boiled noodles, chopped chervil and pieces of as . cakes> etc . when served as a and green peas. drink it is made into a paste with milk then CHICKEN SOUP WITH PEAS PUREE- boiling milk added to the consistency of thin Fresh green peas boiled with a bunch of green cream allowed to simme r for a few minutes mint in chicken stock, thickened lightly with before serving. roux, mint then removed, and the soup* rubbed CHOCOLATE BLANC-MANGE Milk and through a fine sieve, boiled up again and skim- sugar brought to the boil in two separate sauce- med, seasoned, then strained into a tureen con- panSi then corn starch mixed with milk beaten taining chopped chervil and shred lettuce. i nto both, one to be flavored with vanilla, the CHICKEN SALAD Tender, juicy cold cooked other to have melted chocolate and a little chicken cut into small dice, with an equal quan- butter beaten into it, molds dipped into cold tity of hearts of celery, mixed, seasoned with water, the chocolate mixture poured in half salt, red pepper, mayonnaise and a dash of way up, then the vanilla used to fill with, set tarragon vinegar; a cold serving dish rubbed to cool, turned out, served with sweetened and with garlic, covered with crisp, tender, lettuce vanilla flavored cream. leaves, salad placed in the center masked with CHOCOLATE CREAM FRITTERS The choc- mayonnaise, smoothed, decorated with capers, olate part of the preceding recipe made a little beetroot and hard boiled egg. stiffer than for blanc-mange, turned into shal- CHICKEN SALAD Round croquettes made of low pans, allowed to set till firm and cold, then chicken, ham, tongue, mushrooms and truffles, cut into shapes, double breaded and fried, breaded and fried, allowed to become cold, served dusted with powdered sugar and with then split in halves and set around a bed of apricot marmalade or sauce poured around. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 57 CHOCOLATE CAKE One pound each of but- ter, powdered sugar and grated chocolate, sugar and butter creamed together, chocolate dissolved in a pint of milk, then worked into the cream with eight yolks of eggs, three-quart- just fall off from a spoon; from it is prepared "Bell Fritters", "Queen Fritters", "Cream Puffs and Eclairs", "Spanish Puffs", "Pra- lines", "Croquenbouchees", "Choux Croutons", etc.. etc. ers of a pound of flour and two teaspoonfuls of CHOW CHOW One gallon each of cut string- baking powder and the whipped whites of eight eggs then lightly stirred in, poured into but- tered and papered pans, slowly baked till done, about one hour. CHOCOLATE CREAM Three pints of double cream whipped stiff, to which is then added sugar to taste, one ounce of gelatine, juice of a lemon, and half a pound of melted chocolate, poured into molds, and sec on ice; the tops of molds may be decorated before pouring in the cream. C H O COLATE ICE CREAM Pure cream sugared to taste, half a pound of chocolate to the gallon, the chocolate dissolved and mixed into some LUKEWARM cream, then strained less beans, very small white onions, green gherkins and flowerets of cauliflower, two pounds of dry mustard, two gallons of white wine vinegar, two ounces each of turmeric and mustard seed, two pounds of sugar and one pint of olive oil. The cauliflower, beans and onions boiled separately till tender, the gherkins soaked in strong salted water for one day, then mixed together and filled into crocks; the vine- gar brought to the boil, mustard and turmeric mixed and moistened with a little vinegar, then stirred into the boiling vinegar; when it begins to thicken, the mustard seed, sugar and oil are stirred in, poured boiling hot over the vege- tables in the crocks, then put away for use. into the sweetened cream, flavored slightly with CHUTNEY A table condiment imported from anilla, strained into a freezer and frozen. CHOCOLATE CUP CUSTARDS Two quarts of milk, four ounces of chocolate and one pound of sugar mixed and brought to the boil, six yolks of eggs and two ounces of corn starch worked together with a little milk, the boiling mixture stirred into it, put back on the range and stirred till it just thickens, then flavored with vanilla, poured through a conical strainer into cups; when all filled, the cups arranged into a baking pan containing a little water baked slowly till done, served cold with cream poured around. CHOCOLATE ICING One pound of sifted the East Indies, and purchasable at the grocery stores in bottles, may be made as follows: One and a half pints of vinegar, two ounces of whole ginger bruised, one ounce each of chilies and mustard seed, two ounces of salt and twelve ounces of sugar all boiled together for three quarters of an hour, then strained through a hair sieve. Put the strained vinegar to boil again with one large onion shredded, one crushed clove of garlic, six shallots, two ounces of seedless raisins and two pounds of peeled and sliced apples, boil until they are quite soft, then put into stone jars, tie over with skin or parchment paper and keep for use. sugar (powdered) and six whites of eggs thor- CIDER Apple juice obtained by pressure, then oughly beaten till stiff, then flavored with van- fermented and matured. ilia and four ounces of melted chocolate. CHOCOLATE PUDDING Same mixture as given for "Chocolate Cup Custards" baked in a pan, served cold with whipped cream, or sweetened and flavored plain cream. CHOCOLATE PUDDING One pound each of butter and sugar creamed together, ten egges worked into the cream one at a time, fourteen ounces of sified flour and two ounces of grated chocolate then lightly stirred in, flavored with vanilla, poured into buttered molds, steamed till done, served hot with sauce. CHOCOLATE FLOAT Small cold "Chocolate Cup Custards" turned out into deep sauce dish, surrounded with a piping of whipped cream the cream then decorated with colored win, jelly chopped fine. CHOUX-PASTE Is the name of a batter made of a pint of water, eight ounces of lard or but- CINNAMON A spice which may be purchased ground or in stick form, used as a flavoring for cakes, puddings, liqueurs, cordials, syrups, sauces, etc. CISCO One of the small fish of the lakes, re- sembling in size and appearance the fresh water herring. FILLETS OF CISCO IN BATTER The fish scaled and filleted free from bone, seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped into a thin batter, fried; served with or without tomato sauce and garnished with parsley and lemon. BROILED CISCO, LEMON PARSLEY SAUCE The fish scaled, drawn, washed, wiped and the sides scored, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in olive oil, then in flour, broiled and basted till done; served with mSitre d'hotel butter poured over, and garnished with lemon and chip potatoes. ter. nine ounces of flour and ten eggs. Water CISCO SAUTE, JULIENNE POTATOES and lard is brought to the boil, flour then added all at once and worked over the fire till it is cooked into a smooth paste, allowed then to slightly cool, the eggs then beaten in one at a time; its consistency must be so that it will Prepared as in the preceding recipe, rolled in flour, slowly fried a delicate brown with butter, served with some of the butter over it, gar- nished with Julienne potatoes, lemon and parsley. THE CULINAEY HANDBOOK. CITRIC ACID A crystal obtained from acid fruits; used by confectioners and caterers, pop and soda water manufacturers. Street vendors at the fairs simply dissolve it in water, sweeten it, fill it into glasses, place a thin slice of lemon in and sell it for lemonade; also flavor it with a little oil of raspberry, strawberry, etc., adding a drop or two of carmine, and sell it as rasp- berryade, strawberryade, etc. CITRON A large fruit of the lemon species, the peel is blanched, then boiled in syrup and subsequently dried; used in cakes, puddings, ices, jellies, cordials, liqueurs, etc. CITRON CAKE One pound each of butter and sugar creamed together, ten eggs then worked in one at a time, then a wine glass of brandy, one pound of sifted flour, and half a pound of shredded citron. CLAMS A favorite American shellfish, the "Little Neck" clam being the favored kind for eating from the shell, the large hard clams for soups and chowders, and the soft clam for broiling and frying. CLAM CHOWDER Salt pork cut into dice and fried till light brown. Fish broth and clam liquor in equal parts brought to the boil, skim- med, sliced onions and potatoes then put in and boiled till barely done, then is added the fried salt pork and scalded clams cut in dice; sea- soned with pepper, ground mace and salt; brought to the boil again, and poured to an equal quantity of thin white sauce; finished with a few rolled crackers and chopped parsley. PHILADELPHIA CLAM CHOWDER Like the preceding but substituting tomatoes and tomato sauce for the white sauce and adding a flavor of thyme. CLAM BROTH- May be made to order at rest- aurants by simply chopping some large clams and scalding them in clam liquor, then straining into the serving bowl or cup. CLAM STEW Plain or with milk or cream; generally sold in restaurants by the half or dozen (it is customary to give seven and four- teen to the half or dozen); scald the clams with clam liquor, take off the scum, pour into a bowl, add a piece of butter and serve, if for plain; if for a milk or cream stew, scald the milk or cream separately, pour the clams and liquor into the bowl first, then add an equal quantity of the milk, season with butter and serve with crackers. ROAST CLAMS May be either served in the shell or on toast. Large clams washed, ar- ranged on baking sheet, put in hot oven till they open. If served in the shell the top shell is removed, the clam separated from the lower, little melted butter then placed in each and served. If to be served on toast, the toast should be cut in strips, buttered, the clams placed neatly on it, melted butter brushed over them; served with lemon and crackers. BROILED CLAMS The soft clam is best for this dish, but the ordinary large clam is ser- viceable; they should be drained, seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped in melted butter then rolled in fresh sifted bread crumbs, broiled; served on toast, garnished with lemon and watercress. FRIED CLAMS Drained, seasoned, dipped in melted butter, rolled in sifted bread crumbs, then in beaten eggs and again in crumbs; fried in clear butter or in hot fat; served garnished with lemon and watercress. STEAMED CLAMS Large clams scrubbed, arranged on the wire false bottom of a fish kettle with a little water under them, lid then put on, placed over a quick fire; when the upper shell is loosened, it is removed, the clam separated from the lower, little melted butter put in each, served very hot with lemon and crackers. CLAM FRITTERS Soft clams seasoned, then dipped in batter and fried; or large clams chopped, then mixed in batter and fried by spoonfuls in hot fat; served with a cream sauce made with clam liquor. SCALLOPED CLAMS Clams scalded and cut into neat pieces, sauce made of their liquor, the clams mixed in, and either filled into large clam or scallop shells, the tops sprinkled with sifted crumbs and melted butter, then browned in the oven; served in the shell. CLAM CROQUETTES Scalded clams cut into small neat pieces (not chopped). Thick sauce made of the liquor, the cut clams put back into it; when thoroughly reheated, poured into a buttered shallow pan, smoothed with a knife, covered with a sheet of greased paper and allowed to become cold and set, then cut in even sized pieces, shaped, breaded, fried; served with a clam sauce poured around. CLAM FORCEMEAT Scalded clams finely minced with an equal quantity of canned mush- rooms, a little minced onion fried in butter, flour added, moistened with the clam and mushroom liquor, boiled up, seasoned with salt, pepper, little dry mustard, a suspicion of garlic, and some chopped parsley; then is added the clams and mushrooms, boiled up slowly for ten minutes, remove and work in a few beaten egg yolks till of a stiff consistency, put away to cool for use. FRICASSEE OF CLAMS The clams scalded in their own liquor, then strained, equal amount of milk and liquor boiled separately, flour and butter in a saucepan seasoned with red pepper and a little nutmeg moistened with the liquor, then finished to the desired consistency with the boiling milk; when boiled up, finished with a few beaten yolks of eggs, the clams cut either in halves if small, or in neat pieces if large, added to the sauce; served either on toast, or with a border of fancy mashed potatoes, or in scallop shells. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 59 CLAM SOUP CREAM OF CLAMS Same as guest. The foreign term for this method of the preceding recipe, but having the soup of cooking eggs is (OEUFS A LA COCOTTE). the consistency of thin cream; when serving, a COCHINEAL Name of an insect obtained sprinkling of chopped parsley or celery leaves chiefly from tha shores of PH ONOECIA; used BE C AR e EF h U P L a NOT TO LET THE SOUP ***" * "* "** * . COCHON - A " times on bills of IT BAC TO SMOOTH *** tO desi g nate PIG - such as "P ied da **< tf " ro , CLARET-Name of a Southern French wine so COCK E-LEEKIE-Name gwen by the Scotch called abroad on account of its color which is f? 1 * for 8OU P ! Q * hich / cock fowl and distinctive. Used generally as a common din- leeks orm the P*P* ingredients. ner wine, although its best brands cannot be COCKIE-LEEKIE SOUP-Young fowls (cocks too well eulogised. Its use in cookery is largely or hens > Cashed, trussed and lightly roasted, for flavoring sauces, soups, braising meats and then P ut into a white stock of vea * or chicken fish and for ices and jellies. Wlth some white P arts of shredded leeks, salt, CLOVES Name of a valuable spice obtained and a few whole peppers; when the fowls are from the buds of the tree. Used in its whole nearl y done - the ? are taken U P- the meat P'cked form for seasoning many stews, sauces, soups, into shreds and P laced into another saucepan especially turtle soup, where it takes the place with aQ e 1 ual quantity of fresh shredded leeks, of the herb BASIL. It is a valuable addition the stock the fowls were boiled in bein g th en to apple dumplings, pies and sauces; in its strained over; this is then brought to the boil, ground state is often adulterated with pimentos skimmed, then simmered till the leeks are and other inferior spices. The word clove is tender ( about half an hour > seasoned with salt also used to designate a clove or section of and P e PP er ' thea served ' garlic COCKS-COMBS Called by the French "Cretes COBBLER-Name used in cookery to designate de ^" a ' e ^e crests of the male domestic a kind of pie used as a sweet entree; also in fowl cat off and blanched; used in cookery as the bartenders' guide to designate certain parts of certain garnitures; are of no value as mixed drinks. a flavor, but are valuable as pleasing the eye COCOA Name of a bean obtained from the while the sauce tickles the palate; may be pur- cocoa tree, from which is manufactured the chased at the large groceries already for use cocoa of commerce; used in cookery as a bottles, generally mixed with the cocks ker- breakfast and supper beverage; also the ex- nels (Spanish fries). pressed oil of the nut is used as cocoa butter, COCKS KERNELS The testicles of the male chiefly by confectioners. domestic fowl, situated in the middle of the COCOANUT--As generally seen in this country back of the bird; when to be cooked, they are is in shell form devoid of its fibrous husk. The washed, blanched, skinned, and made into shell when broken shows the enclosed nut; fricassees, supremes, breaded and fried, com- this is used in cookery (after having its dark ponent parts of garnitures, etc. Often called skin removed) chiefly by confectioners in mak- by gourmets, "Spanish fries"; purchasable in ing cakes, puddings, ices, macaroons, etc.; can bottles combined generally with cocks-combs. be purchased for such work in dessicated form. COCKLES Name of an English shellfish similar The milk of the cocoanut as the liquid is i n shape and flavor to the "little neck clam- called, is a valuable flavoring for curries, mulli- are imported into this country in small flat gatawney soup, almond soup, etc. cans (cooked). To be used they are taken from COCOTTE Name used in cookery to designate the can and thoroughly washed in cold water a way of cooking eggs. The cocotte cups have to rid them of a sandy sediment, they can then been recently placed on the market; they are be frizzled in butter and served very hot op in cup form without handles and with screw toast garnished with lemon and parsley, or covers; the cups when to be used are slightly mixed into cream, Hollandaise, Supreme or buttered, the eggs broken in (keeping the yolks Normande sauces and served either on toast or whole) a spoonful of cream poured carefully in croustades, paper cases, with rice, or border over them, the lid screwed on, the cups then of shrimps, or they may be curried and served placed into boiling water or into a steamer; with a border of rice. They are practically they require two minutes longer than is re- new to tne American public, and unless well quired for boiled eggs; they are sent to the washed from their sediment will not be much table in the cup and the lid is simply loosened, called for. so as to be removed by the guest at his or her COCKTAILS Name of a mixed drink; also ap- pleasure, or by the waiter at the request of the plied in cookery to oysters and clams. 00 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. OYSTER COCKTAIL Half a dozen freshly BOILED COD STEAK WITH ANCHOVIES opened small oysters dropped into a sherbet Sells well in restaurants. Cod steaks about glass, seasoned with a dash each of tabasco, three-quarters of a pound in weight, laid in Worcestershire, tomato and Harvey sauces. salted water for an hour, then boiled in salted CLAM COCKTAIL Same as the preceding, water and milk, taken up and drained well; using clams for oysters and omitting the Har- served garnished with Hollandaise potatoes, vey sauce on account of its saline flavor. butter sauce containing plenty of shredded NEPTUNE COCKTAIL Three each freshly salt anchovies poured over the steak. (Flem- opened small oysters and clams dropped into a sh and Aurora sauces also go well with a sherbet glass, seasoned with a few shreds of boiled cod steak.) fresh horseradish, a dash each of tomato and FRIED COD STEAK, TOMATO SAUCE walnut catsups, and a dash each of Worcester- The steaks laid in salted water for an hour, shire and tabasco sauces. then taken up and wiped dry; dipped in melted CODFISH A staple salt water fish fit for hotel butter, then flour, then in beaten eggs, fried a use all the year round; caught on the New golden color in oil; served garnished with Juli- England coast and in vast numbers off the enne potatoes and tomato sauce poured around, shores of Newfoundland. The Newfoundland COD STEAK BREADCRUMBED, PARSLEY fisheries make a specialty of salting, drying SAUCE The steaks laid in salted water for an and smoking it, besides making /'caviar" of hour, then taken up and wiped dry, sprinkled its roe and extracting the oil from its liver. with a little lemon juice, dipped in beaten BAKED CODFISH, CAPER SAUCE On ac- e ?g s and resh breadcrumbs, arranged in a count of its size the fish after cleansing is best buttered pan, brushed over with melted butter cut into portion pieces, seasoned with sa't and or bacon fat, baked and turned so that both pepper, rolled in flour, then dipped into melted sides are brown; served with parsley sauce at bacon fat or olive oil, arranged on a baking end of dish - and garnished with Parisienne pan, baked and browned on both sides, the potatoes head boiled with an onion and grated carrot; FRIED COD CUTLET, PIQUANTE SAUCE butter sauce made from the liquor, into which Steaks cut from the middle of the fish, is then added capers and caper vinegar; fish seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped in served garnished with lemon and parsley, with melted butter, rolled in flour, fried in pan with the sauce at one end of the fish. bacon fat, served with Piquante sauce at one BAKED CODFISH STUFFED WITH OY- end> Saratoga chips, lemon and parsley at the STERS Small cod about six pounds each, other - heads and fins removed, inside filled with an BROILED COD STEAK, COLBERT SAUCE oyster stuffing, sewn up, the back and sides The steaks seasoned with salt and pepper, scored into portions, arranged in pan with a dipped in melted butter, rolled in flour, slowly few shredded vegetables, moistened with a little broiled till done; served with Colbert sauce fish broth, brushed over with butter, baked and poured around and garnished with lemon and basted till done and glazy; served garnished parsley, also some fancy fried potatoes, with a potato croquette and oyster sauce poured CURRIED COD STEAK WITH RISSOTO around. Good way to use the tail steaks: cut them half BAKED CODFISH, BREADCR UMBED an inch thick, fry them a golden brown with a Slices of the fish free from bones, laid for an little minced onion, then place them in a sauce- hour in a mixture of olive oil, vinegar, salt and pan, flour and curry then added to the butter pepper, then taken up and drained, dipped in an d onions they were fried with, stirred, moist- butter, breadcrumbs, beaten eggs and again ened witQ equal parts of fish broth and cream, breadcrumbs, arranged in baking pan, moist- boil up, skim, add a little anchovy essence, ened with a little white wine and oyster liquor, strain the sauce over the steaks, put on range baked a golden brown; served garnished with aQ d simmer for a few minutes; serve with the Duchesse potatoes and lemon, with Hollandaise sauce over and garnish with small molds of sauce poured around. rissoto. BOILED CODFISH, EGG SAUCE The fish CREAMED FRESH COD ON TOAST cut into portion pieces, washed, then laid Shoulders and tails of cod are often bought up in salted water for an hour, taken up and cheap; boil them with an onion in salted water put to boil in cold salted water and milk; and milk, when cool, remove all skin and bones, as soon as the flesh is firm it is done, keeping the flakes whole; cream sauce made take up, drain, serve garnished with boiled from the liquor they were boiled in, finished small potatoes and egg sauce poured around. with a few beaten eggs, the fish flakes then re- Other good sauces to serve with boiled heated but not boiled; served on toast sprinkled cod are oyster, Be'chamel and Holland- with chopped parsley, and garnished with strips aise. of toast. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 61 SCALLOPED FRESH CODFISH The pre- roes blanched and skinned, then rolled in flour ceding recipe filled into scallop shells or oval and fried in butter ; served with a strained deep dishes, the top sprinkled with mixed grated piquante sauce well reduced with caper vinegar cheese and sifted breadcrumbs, then with and then add chopped capers, melted butter, baked a delicate brown and SMOKED COD'S ROES Are best either split served. and broiled, or split and fried in butter ; served CRIMPED COD, SHRIMP SAUCE To crimp with Maitre d'Hotel butter poured over, gar- a cod it must be fresh caught, then instantly nished with lemon. killed, cut and notched with a knife, then BOILED SALT COD, CREAM SAUCE Bone- boiled in salt water and milk; served with less codfish steeped over night, boiled up, water shrimp sauce poured around and garnished thrown away, again boiled up using cold water; with quartered hard boiled eggs, and small when done, taken up and drained; served with potatoes sprinkled with M&itre d'Hotel butter. cream sauce poured over, garnished with plain COD STEAK SAUTE, CLUB STYLE Steaks boiled potatoes or with potatoes in their skins. cut from the middle of the fish, seasoned with SALT COD SHREDDED AND CREAMED salt and pepper, dipped in melted butter, rolled The fish prepared as in the preceding, then in flour, fried a pale color in clear melted but- pulled into shreds, mixed into a reduced cream ter, taken up and drained, placed on serving or cream sauce ; served on very hot toast, with dish, the outer edge of the top garnished with a dusting of chopped parsley, fine parsley dust forming a horse shoe, lobster CODFISH BALLS ; OR CODFISH CAKES coral placed down the centre, and trianon The shredded codfish of the preceding and an sauce poured around. equal quantity of well maslied fresh boiled BOILED CODFISH TONGUES, EGG SAUCE potatoes, seasoned with salt, pepper and nut- The tongues steeped for a whole day, then meg) bound with a few yolks of eggs, mixed blanched for ten minutes, taken up, masked w^ ma d e into small flattened cakes, rolled in with egg sauce ; served on toast. flour, fried brown in bacon fat ; served with a SCALLOPED FRESH CODFISH TONGUES s ii ce o f bacon, and a little cream sauce poured The steeped tongues blanched for ten minutes, around. a thick Poulette sauce made from the blanching SCRAMBLED SALT COD ON TOAST The stock, tongues then mixed into it, filled into co d steeped, double blanched, shred, lightly scallop shells or deep oval dishes, the top fried in butter, seasoned with red pepper, equal strewn with mixed chopped parsley, grated quantity of cream and beaten eggs then mixed cheese and bread crumbs, browned and served. an d stirred into the fish, scrambled ligthly; FRICASSEE OF COD'S SOUNDS WITH served very hot on buttered toast. OYSTERS The sounds blanched till nearly SCALLOPED SALT COD, (COD AU GRATIN) done in salted milk and water, taken up and The shredded and creamed cod filled into drained, the oyster then blanched in the strained scallop shells or deep oval dishes, sprinkled stock; cut the sounds after blanching to the with mixed grated cheese and sifted bread- size of the oysters ; Poulette sauce made from crumbs, browned in the oven or under a sala- the blanching stock, to which is then added the mander. fish; served on toast with a dusting of finely CODFISH CHOWDER Can be made with chopped parsley. either fresh or salt fish ; if the salt soak it over STUFFED COD'S SOUNDS, OYSTER SAUCE night, blanch it twice so as to extract the salt, . The sounds blanched and allowed to cool, fry some small pieces of salt pork with an onion then spread with an oyster forcemeat (see minced, when of a light color, remove from the oysters) ; when spread, coiled around and fire, add the fish in flakes (freed from bone), pinned with a small skewer, rolled in flour, some raw peeled potatoes cut in squares, a sea- then in melted butter and then in sifted bread- soning of thyme, marjoram, pepper and a can crumbs, arranged in a buttered baking pan, of tomatoes, fill the saucepan half full with fish roasied and basted with butter till brown and broth, put on the lid, place in oven and let it frothy ; served very hot with oyster sauce. simmer for an hour, take out, and work in with- BOILED COD'S ROES, BUTTER SAUCE out breaking the potatoes an equal quantity of The roes blanched and skinned, then simmered thin cream sauce, add a little chopped parsley till doue in hot water with a dash of vinegar ; and serve. (After the cream sauce is in it must served with a good butter sauce containing a not be allowed to boil again or it will curdle), little anchovy essence and chopped parsley. COD AND OYSTER PIE, FRENCH STYLE- BROILED COD'S ROES, BUTTER SAUCE Fresh boiled cod in flakes, scalded oysters The roes blanched and skinned, then rolled in added, mixed with Aurora sauce, kept hot in flour and fried in butter ; served with the sauce bain-marie, platter shaped pieces of puff paste of the preceding recipe with an addition of split, cod and oysters in sauce placed on the chopped capers. lower crust, covered with the upper crust and FRIED COD'S ROES, CAPER SAUCE The served very not. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. CODFISH TONGUE PATTIES The tongues steeped and blanched, then fried with butter, drained, mixed with tomato sauce, filled into hot patty shells and served. SALT CODFISH HASH, NEW ENGLAND STYLE The shredded and creamed cod pre- viously mentioned mixed with an equal quantity of potatoes cut in thin strips like matches, which are then boiled in cream; when done and well reduced, mixed with the fish and served very hot on toast. COFFEE The national breakfast beverage; to be well made use a high grade of coffee, per- fectly roasted, properly ground, twelve ounces to the gallon of water for morning coffee, while for after dinner coffee (which is generally served in small cups) sixteen ounces to the gallon is required; fresh boiling water the moment it reaches the bubbling point, then only a little at first to open the pores of the coffee and get it ready to receive the remainder, which is to be put on a little at a time until ALL the good and NONE of the bitterness ^annin) is extracted, for if it be too strong for some, it can easily be diluted with boiling water when in the cups; HOT cups first, then the sugar, then warmed milk (not boiled), then the coffee, and if afforded, put on the top a teaspoonful of whipped cream, then you have a veritable nectar; the cream cleaves to the roof of the mouth, and the coffee slips down "like the oil down Aaron's beard". COFFEE ICE CREAM One quart of fresh made and cooled coffee, with three pounds of pow- dered and sifted sugar to each gallon of pure cream, mixed, strained into the freezer and frozen. COGNAC pronounced KONEYAK The term used by t'lie French for brandy. COLBERT Name given to a sauce and a soup. Sauce made of a pint of good Espagnole, into which is mixed a little meat glaze, lemon juice, chopped parsley, and red pepper, made very hot without being boiled, then very gradually beaten in a half pint of clear melted butter. The soup is made with a rich consomme" and contains shredded celery and lettuce blanched, diced artichoke bottoms and small button onions. COLBERT SOUP Another way is to make a rich cream soup ligh'ly thickened with a liaison of egg yolks and cream, into which is then worked a puree" of blanched hearts of endive, a fresh soft poached egg being served with each portion. COMPOTE A term used in cookery to signify something whole in a sauce. Hence a compote of fruit is the fruit either whole, or split and the stone or core removed, dropped into a thick boiling syrup till cooked without breaking, cooled, served with the syrup. A compote of birds such as larks, reedbirds, ortolans, etc. are the birds boned and stuffed, then lightly roasted, then finished cooking in a bright sauce; served with the sauce. CONDE pronounced KONDAY Term applied to a dish of stewed apricots served with rice; also to a soup of puree of red haricot beans, which dishes it is said the "Prince of Conde" originated. CONSOMME Name applied in cookery to a strong clarified soup, the different consomme's seen on bills of fare, called Consomme a la this and a la that, simply terrorizes the guests as Well as the young cooks, and are merely sig- nificant of the different garnitures that are placed in the soup or plate before being served, or else the flavor of the principal meat of which the consomme" was made. The ingredients for a good general every day consomme is here given. CONSOMME INGREDIENTS- To make five gallons (which quantity should serve 100 guests) take fifteen pounds of LEAN beef trimmings, six medium sized peeled carrots, same of onions, twelve leeks, two heads of celery, a bunch of parsley and a gallon of tomatoes all chopped fine, mix with them after chopping, one tablespoonful of whole peppers, twelve cloves, six bay leaves, eighteen beaten whites of eggs and their shells, a little salt, then add stirring all the time, eight gallons of good stock free from fat, COLD, or if hot, place a chunk of ice in the saucepan before pouring in the hot stock. Next, place saucepan on the range, add three hens, (they can be used as salads after) fetch to a slow simmer and reduce to about five gallons in four hours, then strain through a consomme towel (double cheese cloth). In the following numerous consomme's there will be stated certain flavors such as "veal," "chicken," "game," "mutton," "vegetable," "fish," etc. When the recipe has this statement, it means that the stock besides containing the in- gredients mentioned for making consomme should have an extra supply of the flavor called for, so that it will be distinct from the ordinary flavor of plain consomme\ CONSOMME AFRICAINE Cooked artichoke bottoms and egg plant cut in small squares, kept hot in consomme, spoonful placed in each pbte at time of serving; a teaspoonful of curry powder to each gallon of stock should be mixed with the ingredients before boiling so as to give the soup a light curry flavor. CONSOMME ANDALOUSE After the plain consomme" is strained and seasoned, some well washed pearl tapioca is simmered in it till per- fectly clear; small poached quenelles of force- meat are kept hot in a little consomme", and one or two added to each plate at time of serving; the soup should have strong tomato flavor with a suspicion of garlic. CONSOMME ANGLAISE Plain consomme" made with plenty of veal bones to give it a gela- tinous taste; served with green peas and small squares of white chicken meat in each plate. CONSOMME BAGRATION Make two sepa THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. rate consomme's, one plain, the other with plenty of fish heads, when both are strained and seasoned, mix together, so that the fish flavor slightly predominates; when serving, a spoonful of the following mixture is placed in each plate of soup; small fish quenelles, tails of crayfish, flakes of small fish, and small cut vege- tables of the season. CONSOMME BEAUVILLIERS Soup of vege- table flavor, served with slices of stuffed cucum- bers and small squares of toast. To stuff the cucumbers, cut off the ends, remove the seedy part with a column cutter, fill it with any force- meat you have on hand, then simmer in milk and water till done, remove and drain, and when cold cut in thin slices, CONSOMME BOURDALOUE A chicken-flav- ored soup served with small squares of cooked chicken breast, green peas, circular thin slices of rice that has been mixed with egg yolks and montpelier butter, then steamed and allowed to become cold. CONSOMME BARIGOULE A game-flavored soup seasoned with sherry wine, and served with slices of stuffed olives together with slices of button mushrooms. CONSOMME BRUNOISE A vegetable-flav- ored soup served with green peas, very small squares of carrot, turnip (white and yellow) celery and artichokes. CONSOMME BOURGEOISE To the con- somme" ingredients is added a couple of ham knuckles, thus giving the soup a slight ham flavor. It is served with shred cooked cabbage, leeks, very small balls of potatoes, and minute squares of carrot, turnip and celery. CONSOMME CARE ME A plain consomme 1 flavored with Madeira wine and served with small sippets of toast, together with small cir- cular slices of cooked carrot, white and yellow turnip, finely shred lettuce, sorrel leaves and a sprinkling of chopped chervil. CONSOMME CELESTINE A plain consomme" flavored with sherry wine, served with small sandwiches of the following: Make six French pancakes, spread three with forcemeat and grated cheese, place the other three on top, then stamp them with a medium-sized column cutter. CONSOMME CHATELAINE A plain con- somme served with green peas, shredded string beans and squares of custard, made of one pint of onion puree, 24 egg yolks, salt, red pepper, mixed and steamed. CONSOMME CHANTILLY A bunch of fresh mint should be boiled with the consomme" in- gredients, the soup to be served with blanched rings of green onion tops, and small squares of a stiff pure"e of green peas. CONSOMME WITH CHOUX A plain con- somme served with green peas, slices of button mushrooms and small balls of choux paste made like stoned olives, the centre filled with force- meat and baked ten minutes. CONSOMME CHIFFONADE A vegetable flavored soup served with shredded cabbage and lettuce, thin strips of carrot and turnip, together with green peas. CONSOMME CLAREMONT A plain con- somme" served with small rings of onions that have been dipped in milk, then flour, then fried crisp ; together with Royal custards cut in squares or circles, made of ten yolks of eggs, two whole eggs, and half pint of cold consomme"; mixed together, not beaten; slowly steamed till set. CONSOMME COLBERT A plain consomme" served with a freshly poached egg, and a spoon- ful of small cut vegetables of the season. CONSOMME WITH CELERY Plenty of celery trimmings should be boiled with the con- somme ingredients, the soup served with a spoonful of shredded cooked celery, thin strips of tongue, mushrooms and a little dry boiled rice. CONSOMME CUSSY With the consomme" in- gredients should be boiled plenty of game trim- mings to give the soup a game flavor. It is served with small blanched and peeled chest- nuts, a small timbale of game forcemeat mixed with mushrooms, finished with a little Madeira wine. CONSOMME DUCHESSE Strain off a plain consomme", then thicken it with corn-starch mixed with water, simmer it till it is perfectly clear and gelatinous; it is then served with strips of white chicken meat ; the soup to be of strong chicken flavor. CONSOMME WITH DARIOLES A consomme" of strong chicken flavor served with quarters of darioles made of a pound of lean grated ham, half a cupful of Soubise pure"e, half a cupful of tomato pure"e, two whole eggs, eight yolks of eggs, a wine glass of Madeira wine, same of cold consomme, with a dash of red pepper; make the whole into a paste, then rub it through a fine sieve, fill dariole molds, steam till set, cut in quarters when cold, and serve with the soup together with green peas. CONSOMME DESCLIGNAC A plain con- somme" flavored with sherry wine, served with circular slices of Royal custards. CONSOMME DOUGLAS A plain consomme* served with shreds of cooked celery, red tongue, mushrooms and a little dry boiled rice. CONSOMME DUBORG A plain consomme" served with dry boiled rice and some fancy shapes of Royal custards. CONSOMME D'ORSAY A strong chicken flavored consomme" served with an egg poached in consomme 1 , together with very small cut vegetables of the season. CONSOMME DAUMONT A sherry wine-flav- ored consomme" served with small pieces of cooked chicken breast, sweetbread, red tongue and tops of button mushrooms. 54 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. CONSOMME EPICURE A strong consomme" CONSOMME WITH MACARONI A roast poul- of game-flavor, seasoned with Madeira wine, try stock should be used to make the consomme"; and served with a freshly poached egg in each when strained off and seasoned, served with plate. macaroni that has been boiled, washed, drained, CONSOMME OF GAME The preceding, but and then cut into quarter-inch pieces. in place of the egg, it is served with quenelles CONSOMME MILAN AISE The preceding or raviolis made of uncooked partridge one part, made consomme - ser ved with the addition to the cooked calf's brains one part, Parmesan cheese macaroni, one i ncn lengths of boiled smoked half part, yolks of eggs to bind, pounded, tongue; a butter chip full of Parmesan cheese rubbed through a fine sieve, molded into should be served separately, quenelles and poached. CONSOMME MONTE CARLO A rich chicken CONSOMME GAMBETTA-A chicken-flavored flavofed consomme served whh slices of cooked consomme served with a poached yolk of egg etables stamped out with cutters repr esent- and three quenelles of veal, one of its natural . clubs, spades, hearts and diamonds; also color, the others being colored red and green circular slices of chicken {orcemeat that is dotted with truffles to represent dominoes; also circu- CONSOMME INDIENNE-Sameas "consomme , slices of ^ beetfOot) carrot and Afncame .adding, however, strips of cooked repres enting poker chips, chicken breast and a little dry boiled rice. , CONSOMME IMPERATRICE-A strong chicken CONSOMME MEFICIS-A rich chicken flavored flavored consomme" served with a freshly poached consomme" lightly thickened with corn starch; egg in each plate served with a freshly poached egg in each plate, CONSOMME ITALIENNE-A plain consomme ^ ether with a cana P e or s , ma11 P*"? of chicken slightly flavored with tomatoes and a suspicion forcemeat served separately. of garlic; served with green peas and small CONSOMME MONTMORENCY A rich flav- pieces of well washed macaroni. ored chicken consomme" served with noodles, CONSOMME IMPERIAL-A chicken flavored sma11 balls of chicken forcemeat, and some let- consomme" served with green ; peas, asparagus tuce leaves s P read with chicken forcemeat rolled points and small quenelles of chicken forcemeat. U P llke cigarettes and braised. CONSOMME JULIENNE-A vegetable flavored CONSOMME N APOLIT AINE-A game flavored consomme" served with fine shreds of green consomme" to which is added Madeira wine, stringless beans, carrot, turnip, cabbage, celery, served with sma11 cut and washed macaroni, leeks, spring onions, and green peas, the vege- cooked celery cut in small squares, and small tables should be saute"ed in butter first, before croutons of toast, simmering them in the consomme^ CONSOMME WITH NOODLES-A rich chick- CONSOMME JOINVILLE-A strong consomme" en flavored consomm ^ serv * d with **7 * hred well flavored with fish heads, pounded lobster no es ' - , heads and shells; when strained off, seasoned CONSOMME NIVERNAISE - A plain con- with white wine, served with small pieces of som ^ &a ed w j th sh , err y w ' ne; ^rved with lobster and croutons souffles. * ma11 q uenelles f veal, together with fancy X-.^ITO^.H***^ T^-TTT^OT-T *- , a j Italian paste, and a macedome of vegetables. CONSOMME KURSEL-A vegetable flavored CO NSOMME NAUDIER -A rich chicken fla- consomme served with a spoonful of cooked yored consomme served whh small quenelles of green peas, asparagus tips, shred lettuce, cut chicken forceme at of different colors; to make stringless beans, flageolets and green onions. wh - ch( takfi some chicken forcemeat and divide CONSOMME MARIE STUART-A mutton flav- h into four parts; into the first work some finely ored consomme" served with a spoonful of well chopped truffle peelings; the second finely washed, cooked pearl barley, and small cut minced red tongue; the third chopped pars i e y; vegetables of the season. the fourth> minced yolks of hard boiled eggs> CONSOMME MACEDOINE A chicken flav- CONSOMME NILSSON A rich chicken fla- ored consomme" served with a mixture of vari- vored consomme" served with small quenelles colored vegetables cut in very small squares, or O f chicken forcemeat in three colors shaoe of a else use the canned macedoines. pencil, an inch long; to make which, divide the CONSOMME MAGENTA A plain consomme" forcemeat into three parts, leave one plain, slightly colored with tomato juice, to which is color the others red and green respectively. added a macedoine of vegetables and some CONSOMME ORGE A plain consomme" served chopped parsley and celery leaves. with pearl barley, breast of cooked chicken cut CONSOMME MASSENA Made with plenty of in squares, carrots and turnips cut into small hare or jack rabbit trimmings mixed with the squares. consomme" ingredients, when strained off, flav- CONSOMME WITH PEAS A vegetable fla- ored with sherry wine; served with small que- vored consomme" served with green peas, to- nelles of rabbit. gether with black peas scooped out of truffles. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 65 CONSOMME POISSON A plain consomme" slightly flavored with fish stock, seasoned with sherry wine; served with green peas, dry boiled rice and small quenelles of lobster. CONSOMME PRINTANIERE A vegetable flavored consomme" served with plenty of green peas, asparagus tips, and other spring vegeta- bles cut small. CONSOMME PRINTANIERE ROYAL Same as the preceding, with the addition of Royal custards, in to which has been steamed a finely cut macedoine of vegetables. CONSOMME PAYSANNE A vegetable flavored consomme" served with a jardiniere of vege- tables, shred cabbage and lettuce. CONSOMME PRINCESSE A rich chicken fla- vored consomme" served with green peas, aspar' agus tips, pearl barley, diced chicken breast, and forcemeat quenelles. CONSOMME PATTI A plain consomme" served with rice, green peas, breast of chicken and truffles cut in small squares, together with some Parmesan cheese served separately. CONSOMME PATE D'lTALIE A chicken fla vored consomme" served with fancy Italian paste. CONSOMME PRINCE DE GALLES--A game flavored consomme, served with asparagus tips. Royal custards, breast of chicken and chicken forcemeat, all cut in diamond shapes. CONSOMME PALESTINE A chicken flavored consomme served with dry boiled rice, and thin slices of stewed Jerusalem artichokes. CONSOMME WITH QUENELLES, ASPAR. AGUS TIPS, TURNIPS, RICE, CORN, PEAS, OR ANY OTHER SIMPLE THING, AS OFTEN SEEN ON BILLS OF FARE- IS SIMPLY A PLAIN CONSOMME SERVED WITH THE ARTICLE NAMED. CONSOMME ROY ALE A plain consomme' served with circular slices of Royal custards, and flavored with sherry wine. CONSOMME RACHAEL A game flavored con- somme" seasoned with Madeira wine, and served with small quenelles of game together with shreds of cooked red tongue and truffles. CONSOMME RENAISSANCE A game flavored consomme" seasoned with Malaga wine; served with sliced mushrooms, dry boiled rice, green peas and croutons. CONSOMME RIVOLI A plain consomme* but highly spiced; served with noodles, also Parme- san cheese served separately. CONSOMME SEMOULE A plain consomm, when strained off has tapioca or semolina washed, then simmered till same is clear in the soup. CONSOMME SAGOU Same as the preceding, bat using sago instead of tapioca. CONSOMME DE STAEL A chicken flavored consomme" served with lozenge shaped pieces of fried bread, and small quenelles of chicken forcemeat. CONSOMMfi SEVEIGNE A chicken flavored consomme" served with asparagus tips, cut string- less beans, green peas, and Royal custards mixed with forcemeat. CONSOMME SOLFERINO A strong beef fla- vored consomme"; served with small quenelles of farina. Plenty of roast beef bones should be boiled in the stock. CONSOMME SUEDOISE A rich chicken fla- vored consomme" served with a small croustade in each plate filled with a mixture as follows: run a couple of carrots, turnips and a small cab- bage through a mincing machine, braise them till done, then mix with them a can each of flageolet beans and green peas, also a little Parmesan cheese; season to taste, CONSOMME TROIS RACINES A mutton fla- vored consomme" served with cubes of braised turnip, carrot and celery, CONSOMME TALMA A chicken flavored con- somme* served with grains of boiled rice, and shapes of Royal custards made of eggs and almond milk. CONSO MME ST. XAVIER A vegetable flavored consomme served with a Printanie"re of vege- tables, shred cabbage and the following: Cook together four ounces of butter, six ounces of flour, two ounces of grated cheese, one cup of cream; season it with pepper, salt and nutmeg; remove from the fire when done, and beat into it two whole eggs, two yolks of eggs, some chopped parsley; then rub it through a colan- der into the simmering soup. CONSOMME VERMICELLI-Is simply a rich veal flavored consomme" served with vermicelli that has been boiled, and then well washed and drained. CONSOMME VOLAILLE Is simply a rich chicken flavored consomme" served with strips of chicken meat. COQ The French word for "cock", hence they have "coqde Bruyere" which in English means black cock or heath fowl, "coq d'lnde" or turkey cock. COQUILLE Is the French word for shell, and we have many dishes served "en coquille".or in shell, generally in a scallop shell, either nat- ural, or of metal or earthernware to imitate it. CORBEILLE Is the French word for basket that is used to hold a display of crystallized fruits or flowers, etc , etc. CORDIALS Or liqueurs as the French call them, enter into many ices and drinks that are served at banquets, of which the following is a list of those most used. "Absinthe, Alkermes, Bene- dictine, Chartreuse, Curacoa, Kummel, Shrub, Kirsch or Kirschenwasser, Maraschino, Nectar, Negus, Noyeau, Punch, Ratafia and Vermouth. CORIANDER Name of an aromatic seed resem- bling whole peppers in size and shape, used by confectioners as a flavoring, also by the cook for seasoning green turtle soup. 66 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. CORN A most succulent and nutritious vege- table. In its green state it is generally boiled , for about twenty minutes in boiling water con- taining milk and salt, and is served on the cob. The dried corn or maize, (MAIS in French,) is ground coarse or fine for making the following dishes. CORN MEAL MUSH One gallon of water, one ounce each of salt and butter. The seasoned water is brought to the boil, into which is then strewn and beaten one and a quarter pounds of corn meal; when boiled up again, it should be removed to the back of the range where it must simmer for three hours with a cover on; served with cream or milk and sugar. FRIED CORN MUSH A popular breakfast dish. The mush of the preceding when cooked is poured into a buttered pan, smoothed, the top then brushed with melted butter to prevent a hard skin forming, allowed to become cold, cut in blocks or slices, fried plain in butter, or breaded and fried; served with maple syrup. CORN BATTER CAKES For recipe see head- ing of " Batters." CORN GEMS OR MUFFINS One and a half pounds of corn meal, three quarters of a pound of sifted wheat flour, three teaspoonfuls of bak- ing powder, half a cup of granulated sugar, one teaspoonful salt, all mixed together dry; one and a half pints each of water and milk, six beaten eggs, half a cupful of melted butter mixed together, the dry and wet mixtures then thor- oughly incorporated and poured into hot greased patty shells or muffin rings and baked; light and delicious. CORN BREAD, JOHNNY CAKE OR CORN DODGER The preceding mixture poured into greased hot shallow baking pans and baked well done with crisp corners. CORN MEAL GRUEL Well boiled corn meal mush two-thirds, slightly sweetened boiling milk one-third, mixed, then forced through a fine sieve or colander. CORN WAFFLES The mixture above given for "Corn Muffins," poured into hot waffle irons, baked and served dusted with powdered sugar. CORN BLANC-MANGE Equal quantities of white corn meal and corn starch mixed dry, beaten into boiling milk sweetened to taste, then allowed to simmer for an hour, removed, flavored, poured into decorated molds, turned out when set and cold; served with whipped cream, iruit syrups or stewed fruits. CORN MEAL OR INDIAN PUDDING Thick well boiled corn meal mush allowed to partly cool, into which is then mixed seedless raisins, grated lemon rind.ginger, butter.a little molasses beaten with a very little baking soda, beaten eggs, then baked and served with a fruit syrup sauce. POLENTA The Italian name for our corn meal mush; they also make a polenta from chestnut flour. HULLED CORN Dried white corn soaked in weak lye for two days is then well washed, boiled tender and served plain with milk. In the larger cities there are people who prepare it and sell it ready for boiling. TORTILLAS, A CORN CAKE MADE BY THE MEXICANS The tortilla is typical of old Mex- ico, and is encountered wherever the influence of the cactus republic has reached. It was found as the main article of food among the ancient Aztecs at the time of the Spanish con- quests, more than three and a half centuries ago; and the little hand ground and palm-fashioned corn cake has well held its own down through the ages, being today as popular and in as gen- eral use as ever. Shelled corn intended for this use is first soaked over night in lime water until the outer husk of the kernels is loose enough to be removed by being rolled between the hands, and is then ready for grinding. This is done by the Mexican women of the lower classes, who often work in the doorways of their homes, bending over the historic stone hand mill, called in Mexico a MAT ATE. The mill is simply a rough slab of stone supported by four stocky legs and is made of bolcanic tufa, the coarse grain of which is best adapted for the grinding of the corn, beans, chilli seeds, cheese or what- ever it maybe desired to finely pulverize. The stone mill is an indispensable item in the culin- ary outfit of the tropical home. The accompany- ing handpiece, looking like a rude rolling pin, is also of stone, and is briskly worked up and down the incline of the rude stone table by the woman as she bends to her work with a steady swing of body, shoulders and arms. It is claimed that the flour for the tortillas can be perfectly milled only by their ancient methods, and when one sees the result of the grinding he is ready to admit that possibly they are right. As the moist windrows of the meal roll off the grinding board it is caught in a basin and is then ready for being formed into cakes for baking. When ready to bake a woman takes a small lump of the heavy mixture and lays it in the palm of her hand; then with the other palm, she rolls it into a ball and begins to quickly pat it in to the de- sired thinness, deftly spreading the fingers to allow it to enlarge its size, and changing it from hand to hand until it is only an eighth of an inch in thickness and generally about six inches in diameter, although sometimes as large as a din- ner plate. The plastic cakes are tossed, one after another, as completed, upon the stove called a Brasero, and as fast as delicately browned and turned they are placed in a steam- ing heap and enveloped in a cloth to keep them warm. CORN FRITTERS Canned corn, or cooked corn cut off the cob, pounded, mixed with a little THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. flour, beaten eggs, salt, pepper and a little but- ter, dropped by spoonfuls into hot fat and fried brown; served as a garniture to chicken, Mary- land style, or as a vegetable. GRATED CORN PUDDING Two quarts of cooked corn grated off the cob, eight yolks of eggs, cup of melted butter, pint of milk, salt, pepper and nutmeg, mixed, poured into but- tered baking pans, baked; served with a sweet sauce. GREEN CORN SAUTE Boiled corn cut from the cob, melted butter in saute" pan, corn tossed and heated thoroughly in it, seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg; served very hot; after sante'eing, it may also be mixed with a cream or Bechamel sauce, and served as a vegetable. GREEN CORN BATTER CAKES Two quarts of cooked corn grated from the cob, twelve ounces of flour, salt, pepper, nutmeg, pint and a half of milk, four beaten eggs, thoroughly mixed, baked on a griddle; served with butter and sugar, or syrup. CORN SOUP Fresh green corn partly grated off the cob and placed aside; the rest on the cob boiled in chicken broth till tender, then strain it off on to the grated pulp, boil up, season with buttei, salt, nutmeg and a little sugar, then pass it through a fine sieve into an equal quantity of Ve'loute' sauce. Another way is to take canned corn, pound it, rub it through a sieve, boil it with milk, then mix it with Veloute" sauce. t.'ORN AND TOMATO SOUP Canned, or corn cut from the cob, passed through a mincing machine, then rubbed through a fine sieve, the pure"e thus obtained boiled in a Veloute' sauce, then combined with an equal quantity of tomato puree. ROAST CORN IN EAR Young green corn with with small claws and sand pouch removed, CRANBERRY PIE-Cranberries washed, then dropped into boiling salted water and simmered tQ ^ with and a Uttle water . ten minutes; served with VeloutS or parsley ^ hen donCi allowed tQ become cold; pie plates sauces. lined with short paste, spread with the cran- SOFT SHELL CRABS FRIED-Live crabs b ' err ies s trips of paste placed over the top, the with sand pouch removed, seasoned with salt te brushed with egg w ash, then baked, and pepper, dipped in milk, rolled in flour, CRANBERRY JAM _or sauce-is the preceding then in beaten eggs and again bread crumbs dowQ whh more J ^ fried in deep fat or slowly m butter; served T; : , t with tartar sauce, or with mayonnaise, garn- thick eD Ugh 4 "*"* * f ' ished with parsley and lemon. CRANBERRY JELLY- -Well washed cranber- SOFT SHELL CRABS BROILED-Prepared ries: tO ^f 11 ' bM * * M n * water ' P Ut and breaded as in the preceding, placed between to ^ d ^' led f f ^ " mnt ? 8 ' t , ,, ,. j . f ., . ., , mashed and squeezed through a a double hinged wire broiler, broiled and basted *J . J returned tQ g the fire with butter; served with tartar sauce, earn- --1,1 * ished with parsley and lemon. P ounds <* su ? ar < ^^"^ f J lon * ^ riTRRTFr. qnFT %HP-TT rRARQ Tu *i, berries, this is then rapidly boiled from fifteen D SOFT SHELL CRABS-Take the twen minu then d into molds and very small ones and boil them a few minutes, se ^ ed whh tufk Qr as a erve> then saute them with minced onion in butter, _,, -,_ T T . , ,. .. j L take up, and put into curry sauce, simmer a CRANBERRY ROLL - Light biscuit dough few minutes; served with a border of boiled sweetened and flavored, rolled out thin, spread rice in grains. with cranberry jam, rolled up, ends tucked in, TO THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. placed in buttered French bread pans and the fire, flavored, turned into a wet pan, allowed baked; or steamed; or tied in a floured cloth, to become cold and firm, then cut into shapes, plunged into boiling water and boiled; served double breaded, fried, served with the follow- in slices with sweet sauce. ing cream sauce. CRANBERRY TARTLETTES Fancy sets of CREAM SAUCE Two thirds milk and one third gem pans lined with puff paste trimmings, cream mixed and sweetened, brought to the boil, then thickened to the consistency of double cream with a little corn starch moistened with cream and egg yolks, strained, finished with a glass of Madeira wine. spread with cranberry jam, baked; served for dessert. THERE ARE TIMES WHEN THE STEWARD CAN BUY GOOD SOUND CRANBERRIES VERY CHEAP; HE SHOULD THEN DO CREAM PUFFS Choux paste (see recipe) piped SO, FOR THEY CAN BE KEPT SOUND FOR MONTHS IF FILLED INTO JARS AND KEPT IN A COOL PLACE, COVERED WITH WATER THAT IS OCCASIONALLY REPLENISHED. into dome shapes on a baking sheet, baked, hole then made in side and filled with a cream, made as given for "cream fritters" above, but softer. WHIPPED CREAM Good, heavy cold cream CRAPAUDINE A French term applied to whipped till it stands like beaten whites of eggs: small birds that are split down the back, then trussed out resembling a frog, such as spring a squab " a la crapaudine" would be a squab split, spread out and trussed like a frog, broiled and served with crapaudine sauce. CRAYFISH Also called "crawfish " is a diminu- tive looking lobster, found plentifully in our rivers. In Europe they catch a sea crayfish and often sell it as a lobster; cur river crayfish on account of its form and color brings it into use BAVARIAN CREAM May also be made with as an artistic garniture, while the flesh from the an ec l ual qual " " used for beverages, desserts, as an accompani- ment to shortcake, etc. BAVARIAN CREAM The whipped creaw above, when firm is sweetened and flavored, then melted gelatine at the rate of two ounces to the gallon is worked in quickly, rapidly poured into molds, shook level, set in ice box till firm, turned out on a dish; served eithet plain, or with cake, fruit, compotes, etc. tail forms many delicate entries, salads and sauces, also soups, that are much thought of on the European continent. CREAM Spelled by the French "cr&ne" it is the oleaginous part of milk, and forms the most delicate soups, sauces, custards, creams, ices russes, souffles, cheeses and pastries. . , In general hotel routine, the cook uses the word* cream, when little or no cream at all is used and with the following recipes such "creams' will predominate. CREAM SAUCE Boiling milk, melted outterin a saucepan with as much flour as it will take up, stirred together, gradually moistened while stirring with the boiling milk, seasoned with salt, red pepper, nutmeg, and lastly, when re- moving from the fire, the juice of a lemon is added, strained through a fine strainer, and some pure cream then mixed in. BECHAMEL SAUCE Boiling chicken broth flavored with the liquor from canned mush- rooms, flour and butter mixed, moistened gradually with the boiling liquor while stirring, seasoned with red pepper, salt, lemon juice and the "cream fritter" mix- ture above and the preceding recipe. The ends and sides of the molds may be previously decor- ated with fruits, and the ornamental top of th mold with plain sweetened cream flavored and colored, set with gelatine; also the cream be- fore being poured into the molds may have candied peels, seedless raisins, pistachio nuts, almonds, marmalades, stewed and fresh fruits, pieces of wine jelly, etc. stirred in. The flavor- ings used are different syrups, liqueurs, es- sences, etc; also coffee, tea and chocolate. the best being made of pure cream sweetened and flavored, then strained into a freezer and frozen. The other way is to boil milk and sugar, thicken it with a liaison of egg yolks and cream, or cornstarch, then with eggs, or milk and eggs, thus forming a frozen custard (but which is called ice cream) ; again, others thick- en or stiffen boiling milk with gelatine, Irish moss, etc., then flavor and freeze. . . All the different kinds of ice cream seen on "bills of fare" have either of the foregoing as a basis, the flavors, colors, shapes, etc. given after- wards. nutmeg, strained through a fine strainer, one CREAM OF TARTAR A most valuable ingred- fourth of its bulk of pure cream then added. CREAM FRITTERS Boiling milk with a small piece of butter, sweetened to taste, thickened with corn starch mixed with cream, allowed to boil up again, then further thickened with a liaison of egg yolks and cream, removed from ient of baking powders. It is also, for feverish people, one of the most perfect of blood coolers when made into a drink as follows: Grate the rinds of three lemons and add the juice of them to a cupful of granulated sugar and three des- sert spoonfuls of cream of tartar; on this po-;f THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. three quarts of boiling water, allow to cool, strain, and it is ready for drinking. CRECY The name of a French city, celebrated for its carrots grown in the neighborhood. A soup is named after it, hence we have " Pure"e Crecy" which is puree" of carrots. CREPES- The French word for a kind of pan- cake, much used on festival occasions by the Latin race. CREPINETTES Small, flat sausages of various delicate morsels, wrapped in pigs caul; it is a French term, caul being called "Crepine" in French. CRESS Called by the French "cresson" hence, dishes seen on "bills of fare" with the attach- ment "au cresson" are garnished with cress, watercress being generally used. Besides being a handsome garniture, it makes a fine salad, eaten plain or with a sprinkling of salt, or with a little salt, pepper and tarragon vinegar. Watercress canapes are made of finely minced watercress worked into fresh butter, and then spread on thin slices of graham bread. CROMESKIES Also spelled "kromeskies" are a sort of fritter made of fish, flesh, game and fowl. The meats are made into a form of sal- picon or croquette mixture, when cold formed into cork shapes, then either rolled in a thin short paste, or fritter batter, fried crisp, garn- ished, sauced and served. An oyster cromesky is an oyster dried with a cloth, wrapped with a a thin slice of parboiled bacon, pinned with a toothpick, dipped in batter and fried; when cooked, the toothpick removed before serving. CROQUETTES A mince of some cooked food, such as beef, lamb, mutton, veal, pork, sweet- breads, lobster, ham, all kinds of game, poultry etc., blended with a high seasoning, and asauce to bind it with; when cold, it is made into forms, such as cones, rolls, balls, cutlets, etc., rolled in flour, then breaded, fried in hot fat a golden color; served with sauces and garnitures that are appropriate to the food used. CROUSTADES-Are hollow crusts made with bread, pastry, or a mixture of flour, eggs and watergrain; they are used as receptacles for savories and sweets, such as oysters, oyster crabs, lobster, frogs, terrapin, sweetbreads, lamb, chicken livers, fresh mushrooms, all kinds of garnitures, mace'doine of vegetables, green peas; also sherbets, frozen punches, whipped cream, ice cream forms, fruit and wine jellies, etc. CROUTE-AU-POT Is literally crust in pot or . soup. It is a broth containing slices of carrot turnip, cabbage, and pieces of toast, the broth is generally made from roast meat bones with a piece of bacon or ham knuckle thrown in. CROUTONS As the word is used in a culinary sense, are pieces of bread cut in the size and shape of dice, fried in hot fat, or browned in the oven, to serve with soup; or slices of bread cut into block forms and fried, used to support small birds, etc. ; or slices of bread cut into fancy shapes and fried, then used to garnish hashes, minces, etc.; also used in connection with shapes cut or stamped out of aspic jelly' used to garnish salads and cold decorated foods. CUCUMBERS Are a vegetable fruit that is fav- orably received by the majority of guests, eaten plain with a seasoning of salt, pepper, and a lit- tle grated onion to offset the bilious effects. CREAMED CUCUMBERS Peeled, cut in slices X i nc h thick, steamed for a few minutes, then put into a Bechamel sauce, simmered till done; served either as a garnish or vegetable. GLAZED CUCUMBERS ON TOAST Peeled, cut in slices ^ inch thick, boiled till tender in salted water, taken up and drained, then dipped in hot glaze; served overlapping each other on a slice of buttered toast. FRICASSEE OF CUCUMBERS Peeled, cut lengthwise in finger lengths, then simmered in clear broth with a little sugar till tender, taken up and drained, then placed into Hollandaise sauce sharp with either lemon juice or white wine vinegar, to which has been added a sea- soning of Worcestershire sauce. BLANQUETTE OF CUCUMBERS Peeled, cut in slices # inch thick; steamed; then placed in a rich Ve'loute' sauce, simmered; served in the centre of a border of green peas. STUFFED CUCUMBERS WITH FORCE- MEAT Peeled, cut in slices an inch thick, cored, steamed, dipped into Veloute' sauce, ar- ranged on hot toast, the tops sprinkled with parsley dust, the holes then filled from a forc- ing bag and tube with a rich forcemeat of what- ever is on hand. CURRIED CUCUMBERS Cucumbers peeled and cored, cut into two-inch lengths, stuffed with mutton forcemeat, rolled in flour, quickly fried in butter, then arranged in a sautoir, cov- ered with curry sauce, simmered till tender; served with grains of boiled rice. FRIED CUCUMBERS WITH MARROW Cu- cumbers peeled and cored; marrow bones sawn into two-inch lengths and the marrow removed; cucumbers cut into two-inch lengths; both are then steamed for a few minutes, marrow then rolled into minced chives, chervil, tarragon and shallots, and inserted into the cucumber, which is then breaded and fried; served with cucum- ber sauce. PUREE OF CUCUMBERS Cucumbers peeled, then parboiled in boiling salted water, taken up and drained, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, simmered in clarified butter> little more flour added to form a roux, moist- ened with boiling milk, boiled up, the whole THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. then passed through a pure'e sieve; if to be used CURRY Name of a yellow powder composed gen- for soup, it is thinned to the desired consis- erally of turmeric, coriander seeds, cardamons, cumin seeds, red pepper, ginger, garlic, chillies, cinnamon and black pepper; used in making mulligatawney soups, and in flavoring food sauces that are called curries. tency with equal parts of white stock and milk, and seasoned with nutmeg and sugar. CUCUMBER SALAD Sliced cucumbers steeped in salted water and ice for an hour, then drained, dished up alternately with slices of CURING-By a safe and simple method applica pickled beet and quartered hard boiled eggs, dressed with oil and vinegar, salt and pepper. CUCUMBER AND ONION SALAD Sliced cucumbers steeped in salted ice water for an hour, a few spring onions also sliced; cucum- bers drained, then mixed with the onions; served with salad cream dressing. CUCUMBERS, FRENCH STYLE Slice the cucumbers very thin, steep them in salted water for several hours, then drain and mix with French dressing containing some chopped tar- ragon; serve on a crisp leaf of lettuce. CUCUMBER KETCHUP Large cucumbers peeled and cored, then grated; to each gallon of pulp after being drained, is mixed half a gallon of cider vinegar, two teaspoonfuls of red pep- per, eight teaspoonfuls of salt, and one pint of fresh grated horseradish; when thoroughly in- corporated it is bottled and sealed. PICKLED CUCUMBERS Small pickling cu- cumbers select and firm, well washed and wiped; take 400 of them and put them in crocks; make a boiling brine strong enough to float a potato the size of an egg, pour it over them at boiling point and let them stand for 24 hours, then re- move, wipe, and put into clean crocks and cover with hot vinegar spiced with cloves, mace, onion, and a % pound of mustard seed. CUMIN Name of a seed used in Europe as a flavoring for stews, in cheeses, and by the Ger- mans in bread. CURACOA Name of a liqueur made from bitter orange peel; in cookery is used as a flavoring to sweet sauces, creams, jellies, and blanc-manges. CURD Is the basis of cheese; the solid part of milk; used by confectioners in producing cheese cakes, blanc-manges, curds and whey, curd pudding, curd puffs, etc. CURRANTS Are of three colors and flavors red, white and black; they all make good pies; the white and red are also cooked in syrup, bottled, and named "Bar-le-duc" jelly; the black make fine jams and jellies, wine, vinegar, gin. DRIED CURRANTS Are a different variety, a ble to country hotels and small institutions, of hams and bacon. The conditions under which the curing of bacon may be conducted success- fully is a uniform coolness in cellar, a uniform strength of pickle, thorough cleanliness, the cellar temperature should not exceed 50 degrees F. Bacon is cured by simply rubbing the sides with powdered salt to which has been added a little saltpetre, then placing on the cellar floor; they are then covered with salt to which has been added 5 per cent, of saltpetre, and al- lowed to lie for a week. The salt is then re- moved, 'and the sides turned, rubbed again with salt, saltpetre and a little sugar, and allowed to lie covered with a fresh quantity of salt and saltpetre for another week; the salt is then all removed, and the sides are either hung up to dry, or allowed to lie in the cellar for another week, after which the bacon is ready in the "green state" ; or it may then be smoked. The best smoking materials are oak dust, oak chips, peat, wheat straw, ash dust, "or chips of other hard woods; the two of greatest value are the oak dust and peat, each imparting a characteristic flavor. The word sides is used allowing for whole halves of the bacon hog; but if bellies alone are required, the process is the same. CUSTARD Name applied to a mixture of eggs, milk and sugar, mixed together, then baked, steamed or boiled. The best proportion is: to each quart of milk, work ID eight beaten eggs, six ounces of sugar, then flavor; or the milk may be boiled with a flavoring, then allowed to cool; the custard to be in perfect condition must only be allowed to reach the boiling or settling point, as if allowed to cook longer it will disintegrate and become watery. CUTLETS Are really rib chops of lamb, pork, mutton and veal, but the term is also applied to neatly trimmed slices of the same meats; also to a slice cut an inch thick right across the middle of a leg of mutton; the term is also ap- plied to breasts of chicken, game and poultry; imitation cutlets are also made of croquette mixtures shaped into rib chop form. sort of small seedless grape that grows wild in CZARINA Name of a Russian sauce often parts of Greece; they are ripened on the vine, served in that country with boiled tongue. It then picked and packed into barrels, forming is composed of a good Espagnole sauce con tair.- a solid mass, and exported all over the world; in* minced gherkins, seedless raisins and lemon they are used in puddings, mince-meat, sauces, juice, simmered till the raisins are soft, pickles, dumplings, cakes, buns, pancakes, and DAMSON The name of a peculiar flavored small also made into a cheap wine. blue plum that if eaten raw would contract tne THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 73 jaws; it is therefore always served in a cooked centre; sometimes called "Berlin pancakes" or condition, in which form it is rich and delicious; "brioche fritters"; " alaDauphine" is used by it makes a fine preserve, jam, jelly, wine, com- some cooks when decorating food with dauphine pote, pudding, pie and tartlette. cakes. DANDELION Or as the French call it "dent- DEMI-GLAZE Is half glaze, or glaze mixed to de-lion" dent meaning tooth, inasmuch as its form a bright jellied gravy, pecuilar shaped leaves resemble lions' teeth. It DEVILS Devilled fish, meat, bones, etc., such makes a very pleasant salad, either by itself or as pork spareribs, ham, lobster meat, sardines, mixed with other salad leaves. The leaves kidneys, boned legs of cooked poultry, salmon should be gathered before the sun is strong steaks, etc., are the articles highly seasoned, or enough to toughen them. The most simple way spread with a highly seasoned paste, then broiled of serving and that mostly liked, is dandelion an d served with or without a pungent sauce ap- leaves with French dressing; dandelion leaves propriate to the food. and sorrel in equal parts, the dandelion cooked DIABLOTINS The French term for small balls half done before the sorrel leaves are added; of swee tmeats generally composed of almond is used as a vegetable by the French. paste rice pastei and grat ed orange peel, made DARIOLES The name of a small plain or fluted into balls, fried in very hot lard, drained, then mold, these are lined with thin paste, then filled rolled in flavored powdered sugar; also balls of with a cheese cake mixture, sweet custard mix- the mixture given for cheesestraws with an egg ture or whipped cream, turned out when done, yo lk added, then floured and fried, taken up and and served like a small charlotte russe. rolled in grated cheese. DARNE Name sometimes seen on "bills of fare." DIAMOND BACK Name of the terrapin that It is the French word for slice, and is generally inhabits the salt marshes of the Chesapeake, used in the term "Darne de saumon" which is and is generally sold by the inch, 7 to 8 inches a salmon steak. being in the best of condition, and bringing the D'ARTOIS Is the name given to a certain kind highest price, from $6 to $10 each, of cake made with puff paste and marmalade; DIGESTION Is something that every cook also in meat cookery to a sheet of puff paste should study. Foods cooked in different ways, spread with a salpicon of fish forcemeat, cray- digest in different times, the following table is fish tails, eel livers, oysters and mushrooms, medically correct. another sheet is laid on top, edges pinched to- A TABLE SHOWING THE TIME REQUIRED gether, brushed over with egg wash, baked; TQ D iQES T THE DIFFERENT FOODS served in slices twice as long as wide, on a folded WHEN COOKED IN DIFFERENT napkin. WAYS. DATES The fruit of the palm tree; the fruit in c a its green state is like a soft green pulp; when W 3 the tree is in flower, the native Arabs bore into Pork steak broiled 3-15 the stem and draw the sap, which they call fat and lean. roasted S -'5 , . , , . . . " recently salted raw 3-00 palm milk, and ferment it into wine, much the ,, ,, ,. stewed -t-oo same as we draw the syrup from the maple tree . .. '.'/.broiled 3-15 and convert it into sugar. Dates may be sub- fried 4-15 stituted for figs in cakes. They make a pretty " boiled 4-30 show on the fruit stand with slices of angelica; Turkey, wild roasted 2-18 also opened and the stone removed, and in its tame place a piece of walnut, the date then rolled in boiled 2-25 XSX- fuu' g ;own::::::::::::::S d ^ DATE PUDDING-One pound of chopped beef Fowls, domestic boiled 4^0 suet, % pound of stoned dates, 14 ounces of " " roasted 4-00 grated bread, i^ ounces of baking powder, 12 Ducks, tame roasted 4-00 ounces of flour, one grated nutmeg, two eggs wi '^ roasted 4-30 and enough milk to make a medium mixture, S up ' |" rley boiled 1-30 poured into molds, steamed three hours; served .. *f n ' ,, with wine sauce. ., muuon" .'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.".'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.".'. - 3^ DAUBE Name given to a strong meat seasoning oyster " 3-30 of salt, powdered herbs, pepper and spices; " beef, vegetables and bread.. " 4-00 used to roll strips of larding pork in prior to in- ' marrowbones 4-10 serting. The meat larded and daubed is named " *<> d t " "beefaladaube." Brains.' animal.'.'.' 1^ DAUPHINE A French term applied to a cake Spinal marrow, animal - 3-40 of the doughnut variety that has jelly in the Liver, (beef), fresh broiled a-oo 74 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. Heart, (animal) fried Cartilage boiled Tendon " Hash, meat and vegetables warmed Sausage, fresh broiled Gelatine Cheese, old, strong raw Green corn boiled ' beans Beans, pod Parsnips .' Potatoes roasted baked boiled Cabbage raw " with vinegar " boiled Carrots " Turnips, white " Beets " Bread, corn baked Bread, wheat, fresh " Apples, sweet, mellow raw " sour, " " hard " Milk boiled raw Eggs, fresh " " whipped . ...roasted 4 oo .soft boiled 3-00 3-30 hard " fried Custard baked Codfish, cured (dry) boiled Trout, salmon (fresh) fried Bass, striped " broiled Flounder " fried Catfish " " Salmon, salted boiled Oysters, fresh raw roasted ' stewed Venison, steak broiled Pig (suckling) roasted Lamb, fresh broiled Beef, fresh, lean, (dry) roasted Beef (with mustard) boiled Beef (with salt only) " Beef fried Beef, fresh, lean, (rare) roasted Beef iteak broiled Mutton, fresh " boiled ; roasted Veal " : .....broiled fried DINDON Is the French word for turkey; donneaux" is the French word for the spring turkey used for broiling, weighing 4 to 6 pounds. DOLMAS A term applied to leaves of cabbage parboiled, containing balls of forcemeat, and - served generally with rissoto. Take 50 cabbage leaves, boil them for ten minutes, drain, make 50 balls of forcemeat size of a walnut, place in centre of the leaf, wrap the leaf around, arrange them in a sautoir, pour over some rich chicken stock and a little melted butter, place the cover on and reduce to a glaze, arrange a little rissoto at each end of the serving dish, place the dolmas in the centre and pour the glaze over. 3-30 DOUGHBIRDS Are plentiful on the coasts; 3-*5 they are about 1% pounds in weight, when in prime condition, have a bill like a snipe, are delicious eating broiled, roasted or in a salmis. DUCKS AND DUCKLINGS That is the domes- tic ones, are in season all the year round, the duckling being in its best form about June. 3-3 BOILED DUCK, PARSLEY SAUCE Ducks singed and drawn, second joint of wings and feet removed, washed, filled with a stuffing of dry breadcrumbs mixed with salt, pepper, chopped parsley, nutmeg and grated lemon rind, trussed, then simmered till tender in seasoned white stock; served with parsley sauce. -30 BONED STUFFED DUCK WITH ASPIC 3-00 Two ducks singed, split down the backs, boned, 2 ~5 laid out flat, skin side down, seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, one of them spread with forcemeat, the meat of the other placed on top, skin then drawn together, sewn, then either roasted or braised till tender, taken up, pressed between two boards till cold, trimmed and glazed; served in slices with aspic. 3-3 ROAST DUCK, ORANGE SAUCE Ducks 2 ~-*5 singed and drawn; filled with a stuffing made of dry breadcrumbs, blanched minced onions, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, nutmeg and a sour apple grated; truss, steam till firm and plump (about half an hour) then roast and baste till brown and tender; served with sauce made of finely minced onion and bacon fried slowly till tender; add them to a rich poultry gravy containing port wine and the grated rind and juice of an orange. ROAST DUCK WITH PEAS, HANOVER SAUCE Ducks singed, drawn and washed, filled with a stuffing made of dry breadcrumbs, minced fried onions and bacon, also the heart and liver of the ducks, chopped parsley, salt, pepper and sage; truss, steam half an hour, then roast and baste till brown and tender; serve with green peas at one end of the dish and Hanover sauce at the other, made as fol- lows: poultry livers boiled, then rubbed through a sieve, added to a VeUoute 1 or cream sauce, sea- soned with lemon juice and Cayenne pepper. 5-5 2-30 3-20 2-30 3-45 2-30 2-30 2-30 2-30 2-30 4-3 3-13 3-3 3-45 3-15 3-30 2-00 3-15 2-00 1-30 2-15 2-00 I- 3 1-30 3-oo 3-30 3-30 4-00 3-55 3-15 3-4 i-35 2-30 2-30 3-39 3-10 3-36 4-00 3-0 3-0 3-oo 3-oo 3-iS 4-00 4-30 'din- BROILED DUCKLING WITH DEVILLED BUTTER Duckling singed, second joint of wing removed, split down the back, drawn, breastbone removed, laid out flat, seasoned with salt and pepper, slowly grilled till done and brown; served on a slice of toast, with devilled butter spread over the bird, garnish with cress and lemon * * * * Devilled butter; to each four ounces of butter work in a level teaspoon ful of THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 75 Cayenne pepper and half a teaspoon ful of black, X of a teaspoonful each of ground ginger and curry powder, and a little finely chopped chervil or parsley. SAUTE OF DUCK WITH OLIVES Ducks singed, drawn, washed and steamed for half an hour, taken up, seasoned with salt and pepper, brushed with melted butter, then rolled in flour, quickly browned and basted in hot oven, taken up, cut into portions; little minced onion lightly fried in butter, flour added to form a roux, moistened with poultry stock, boiled up and skimmed, ducks then added, also halves of stoned olives, simmered till ducks are tender, sauce seasoned and finished with little orange juice and port wine; served garnished with croutons. STEWED DUCKS WITH GREEN PEAS strainer over the ducks in another sautoir, sim- mered till tender; served garnished with slices of fried hominy. SAUTE Ot DUCK WITH CHESTNUTS Ducks singed, drawn and washed, steamed for half an hour, then cut into joints, seasoned with salt and pepper, powdered sage and thyme, rolled in flour, fried brown with bacon fat, taken up and drained, then put into a brown sauce to- gether with the minced giblets and some roasted and peeled chestnuts, simmer till tender, finish with port wine; served garnished with the chest- nuts and a fancy crouton. SALPICON OF DUCK IN CASES Cold braised duck and some of the sauce, the duck cut into small neat pieces with a few mushrooms, re- heated in the sauce; served in fancy paper cases on lace paper. Ducks singed, drawn and washed, lightly but quickly browned in oven, taken up and cut in CURRY OF DUCK WITH RICE-Ducks singed, drawn and washed, steamed for half an hour, taken up, jointed, rubbed with curry powder, rolled in flour; onions sliced and fried a light brown in butter, taken up, joints then fried in the same butter, onions then returned, flour added, shook together, moistened with poultry stock, seasoned with salt, pepper, curry powder portions, small pieces of bacon fried with some small cut spring onions; when brown, flour added to form a roux, moistened with poultry stock, boiled up and skimmed, ducks then added, with a few sprigs of green mint, simmered till tender, mint removed, seasoned with salt and pepper; served with a crouton at ends of dish, green peas at sides. BRAISED DUCK WITH VEGETABLES Ducks singed, drawn and washed, brasiere lined with thin slices of fat bacon, on which is placed slices of onion and turnip, carrot and pieces of grated green apple, the juice and grated rind of an orange, simmered till tender, duck then taken up into another saucepan, the sauce strained over it; served garnished with small molds of dry boiled rice. celery, a few cloves, bay leaves, whole peppers STEWED DUCK WITH TURNIPS Ducks and some sage leaves; ducks arranged on top moistened with white stock and the juice of a lemon with its grated rind, lid put on, braised and basted in oven till brown and tender, ducks then taken up, the braise strained and skimmed, poured over the ducks in serving pan; Julienne vegetables sauteed and seasoned; served, por- tions of duck with sauce over, garnished with croutons at ends of dish and the Julienne vege- tables at the sides. SALMIS OF DUCK IN CROUSTADE Neat shaped slices of cold duck made hot in a thick Madeira sauce, to which is added slices of mush- rooms and callops of salt pork that have been fried together, the sauce to be seasoned with powdered sage and orange juice; served in paste croustade cases, on lace paper. SALMIS OF DUCK WITH FRIED HOMINY Ducks singed, drawn and washed, seasoned with salt and pepper, floured, roasted and basted till brown and frothy, taken up and cut into por- tions; in the meantime the trimmings of the birds are sauteed in olive oil with minced shall lots, chives, thyme and bay leaves, then moist- ened with white wine and reduced; equal quan- tities of Bigarade and Espagnole sauce then added with a few minced mushrooms, the whole boiled up and skimmed; poured through a singed, drawn and washed, steamed for half an hour, taken up, rolled in flour, fried whole in butter, taken up and cut into portions; large balls of turnip fried in butter, taken up and placed with the duck; in the remaining butter is then fried some minced shallots with sage and thyme leaves, flour added to form a roux, moistened with poultry stock, boiled up and skimmed, strained over the ducks and turnips, which are then simmered till tender; served garnished with the turnips and croutons. BRAISED DUCK WITH SAUERKRAUT Ducks singed, drawn and washed, then trussed, arranged in brasiere with carrots, onion stuck with cloves, celery and parsley, moistened with seasoned white stock, covered with buttered paper, lid put on, braised till tender and glazy, taken up, braise strained and skimmed, ducks cut into portions and the braise strained over them. Sauerkraut well washed, put in a sautoir with a piece of bacon, a piece of small bologna, carrot, onion and parsley, moistened with some fat and broth from the stock pot, stewed slowly for two hours, then taken up and drained; vege- tables thrown away, bacon and sausage cut in slices; served, portions of duck flanked with the the kraut and garnished with the bacon and sausage. ?6 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. FILLETS OF DUCKLING, MACEDOINE parsley and bay leaves; when tender, taken up Ducklings singed, drawn and washed, then and cut into portions, the broth reduced to a steamed for ten minutes to plump them, taken half glaze with the addition of some Ve"loute" up, cooled, cut into four fillets, the backbones sauce, dried green peas boiled with a few sprigs then roasted with vegetables; when brown, of mint and a little sugar; when done, rubbed moistened with Bigarade sauce, boiled up and through a sieve, then mixed to a stiff consist- strained over a cooked macedoine of vegetables, ency with the reduced sauce; serve the duck the fillets seasoned with salt, pepper, powdered in portions masked with the peas puree, sage and thyme, rolled in flour, arranged in STUFFED DUCK, ITALIAN SAUCE Ducks buttered baking pan, roasted and basted till singed, drawn, washed, filled with a mixture of brown and frothy; served on a crouton garnished breadcrumbs mixed with small pieces of fried with the macedoine in sauce. lirer and bacon, thyme, truffles, seasoned with FRIED FILLETS OF DUCKLING, SAUCE salt, pepper and powdered sage, bound with BIGARADE Ducklings prepared as in the pre- egg yolks, trussed, steamed for half an hour, ceding, but instead of roasting, fried a golden taken up, rolled in flour, arranged in buttered color with butter; served on toast with Bigarade baking pan, roasted and basted till tender; sauce poured over, garnished with watercress. served in portions with the stuffing under, and ROAST SPRING DUCK, APPLE SAUCE Italian sauce (brown) poured over. Young ducks singed, drawn, washed and trussed, SCALLOPED DUCKS' LIVERS Livers sliced, steamed for five minutes, taken up, seasoned, seasoned with salt, pepper and mixed spices, rolled in flour, arranged in baking pan, roasted sauteed in butter with a few minced shallots and basted till done; served in portions with and mushrooms, chopped parsley and a minced unsweetened stewed apples that have been clove of garlic, pour off the remaining butter, rubbed through a sieve. add a few grated breadcrumbs, moisten lightly STUFFED DUCKLING, ORANGE SAUCE with Bigarade sauce, fill into deep oval or seal- Ducklings singed, drawn, washed, filled with a lo P dishes or shells, sprinkle with sifted stuffing composed of fresh grated breadcrumbs, crumbs, baste with batter, brown off the top grated apple and lemon rind, seasoned with and serve. salt, pepper, chopped parsley and a little sage BROCHETTE OF DUCKS' LIVERS Livers trussed, then steamed for ten minutes, arranged sliced, seasoned with salt, pepper and mixed in a baking pan, dredged with flour, roasted spices, lightly sauteed with butter, then run on and basted till done; served with a brown sauce > skewer alternately with thin slices of par- made in the pan they were roasted in, flavored boiled bacon; when skewer is full, rolled in with grated sour orange rind and its juice. melted butter, then in sifted breadcrumbs, SAUTE OF DUCK WITH NOODLES Ducks broiled till done; served on a strip of toast singed, drawn, washed and trussed, steamed with Hanover sauce at the sides, garnished for half an hour, taken up and cut into portions, with cress and lemon - seasoned with salt, pepper and powdered sage, STEWED DUCKS' GIBLETS IN BORDER- - rolled in flour, fried in butter, placed in a Livers and hearts sliced and sauteed with but- sautoir, dredged with flour, moistened with thin ter . gizzards sliced and simmered in white Bigarade sauce, simmered nil tender; noodles seasoned stock till tender, then taken up and boiled till done, taken up and drained, then drained; hearts, livers and gizzards then mixed mixed with a. little minced chervil, and the > nto a mushroom sauce; simmered till done; ducks' giblets minced and sauteed; served, the fancy border of mashed potatoes arranged on duck in portions flanked with the noodles. serving dish one inch from the edge, giblets STEWED DUCK WITH STUFFED TOMA- placed in the centre, with green peas around TOES Ducks singed, drawn and washed, the potatoes. filled with a stuffing composed of grated bread- DUCKS' GIBLET SOUP- Made the same as crumbs mixed with minced ham, mushrooms, chicken giblet soup (which see) substituting the anchovies, shallot, parsley, salt and pepper, ducks' giblets. trussed, steamed for ten minutes, arranged in D'UXELLES Name of a very thick sauce gen- sautoir, moistened with stock and white wine, erally used to coat cutlets before breading lid put on, simmered till done; served with the them, composed of ]^ each chopped parsley stuffing under each portion, garnished with and minced fried shallots and ^ minced sau- stuffed small tomatoes, tomato sauce poured teed mushooms, all worked into a thick Ve'loute' around. sauce; or instead of ^ minced mushrooms, % STEWED DUCK WITH PUREE OF PEAS need only be used and the other % be minced Ducks singed, drawn, washed and trussed, cooked ham or tongue. stewed till tender in white stock containing a DUTCH SAUCE Another name for Hollan- few cloves, a clove of garlic, onion, thyme, daise sauce, which is made by taking half a THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 77 cupful of white sauce and working into it a drained, breaded, fried; served with shrimp small piece of glace, half a cupful of melted sauce. butter, 6 yolks of eggs, bringing it slowly to a MATELOTE OF EELS River eels skinned, custard-like thickness over a medium fire, then cut into finger lengths, seasoned with salt and seasoning it with salt, nutmeg and lemon juice. ECARLATE A French term often seen on bills of fare as "a 1'ecarlate. It is used to signify that the food is red, and its natural color pre- served. ECLAIRS A hollow form made of "choux- paste" that is filled with pastry cream, with the top generally coated with chocolate glaze. EELS Are of two kinds, the river or fresh water eel, and the sea or conger eel. The flesh of pepper, rolled in flour, lightly fried in butter, taken up, add to the butter they are fried in some white or red wine, thyme, marjoram, fish stock, red pepper, a few cloves and minced shallots, rapidly reduce; then is added Ve'loute' sauce, boiled up, skimmed, strained over the eels in another sautoir, finished by adding some button mushrooms, blanched oysters or mussels, and season with lemon juice; served garnished with fancy crofitons. the river eel is sweet, fine grained and dainty; FRICASSEE OF EELS River eels skinned, that of the sea eel is coarse grained and oily; they must always be skinned before using: to do which a little silver sand is used to hold the the eel by the head. With a sharp knife make a circle round the neck, force down the skin an inch or so, and then with a steady pull the skin will strip off easily. STEWED EELS, LONDON STYLE A most cut into finger lengths, put to boil in fish stock with a little white wine, an onion stuck with cloves, a few minced shallots, bunch of herbs, salt and whole peppers; when done, taken up into a sautoir, the liquor reduced, then strained into a thick Hollandaise sauce, containing chopped parsley; eels placed into the finished sauce; served with a garnish of fancy crofitons. simple and dainty dish, made by cutting river BROCHETTE OF EELS, TARTAR SAUCE eels into two-inch lengths, boiling them till For recipe, see heading of Brochette. done in a parsley butter sauce seasoned with BRAISED EELS, ALLEMANDE SAUCE salt, pepper and a little vinegar; served in soup plates with bread and butter. GRILLED EELS, LONDON STYLE River eels skinned, coiled round and kept in shape with a small skewer, dipped into beaten eggs, then coated with a mixture of grated bread- crumbs, lemon rind, chopped parsley and thyme leaves, salt, pepper, nutmeg; broiled a golden color and served with horseradish, with the option of tartar sauce. BAKED EELS, LONDON STYLE River eels River eels skinned and cut into finger lengths, sprinkled with salt, allowed to remain with the salt on for half an hour, then washed in cold water, drained, arranged in a sautoir with a little butter, parsley, whole peppers, slices of lemon, minced shallots, salt, pepper, nutmeg and a few slices of bacon, moistened with a lit- tle fish stock and braised till done, taken up in- to another sautoir, braise strained and skimmed, then mixed into Allemande sauce which is poured over the eels; served with them, garn- ished with crofltons. skinned, coiled round, pinned into shape with a skewer, coated with D'Uxelles sauce, rolled BROILED BONED EELS River eels skinned and cut into finger lengths, split down the back and the bone removed, seasoned with salt, pep- per and nutmeg, dipped in beaten egg, then rolled in sifted breadcrumbs, seasoned with powdered herbs and pepper, broiled and basted in breadcrumbs, arranged in a buttered baking pan, the inside of the coil filled with a piping of fish forcemeat; brushed with butter, baked a golden brown; served with Admiral sauce. BOILED EELS. MAITRE D'HOTEL River eels cut into finger lengths, boiled fifteen min- utes in salted water; served with a border of till done; served on toast with anchovy butter, garnished with lemon. mashed potatoes, with some Maitre D'Hotel ORLY OF EELS Prepared and boned as in butter poured over the eels. the preceding, but instead of breading they are ROAST EELS, ANCHOVY BUTTER River eels skinned, coiled, fastened with skewers, seasoned with salt and pepper, wrapped in but- tered paper, roasted in medium oven till done, taken up, paper removed, spread with anchovy butter; served very hot with a sprig of parsley and slice of lemon inside the coiled eel. FRIED EELS. SHRIMP SAUCE River eels skinned, cut into finger lengths; marinade them over night in a mixture of vinegar, grated lemon rind, salt, pepper and thyme, then taken up, dipped in batter, fried, and served with rings of crisp fried onions. EEL SALAD River eels skinned and boned, cut into short finger lengths, laid in salted water for an hour, then taken up and wiped dry, ar- ranged in baking pan, sprinkled with salt, pep- per and mixed ground spices, moistened with water and a little vinegar, adding a little dis- solved gelatine, bake till done and glazy; served cold masked with ravigote or tartar sauce, garnished with slices of cucumber. 78 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. ROAST STUFFED CONGER EEL, ADMIRAL melted butter dripped over the eggs, placed in SAUCE Portion cuts skinned and boned, oven till set. laid for two hours in salted vinegar with SCRAMBLED EGGS Four-fifths broken eggs chopped sweet herbs, taken up, filled with veal ( no t beaten), one fifth cream, seasoned with salt stuffing, tied round with string, rolled in flour, an d little melted butter, ladleful (made to hold arranged in baking pan, roasted and basted till three eggs) poured into hot buttered frying pan, done; served with Admiral sauce. stirred about or shook till softly set; served BOILED CONGER EEL, ALLEMANDE either plain or on buttered toast. SAUCE Portion cuts skinned and boned, tied POACHED EGGS Eggs removed from shell, round with string, blanched, then placed in dropped into simmering salted water contain- sautoir with bay leaves, onions, parsley, whole i ng a dash of vinegar; when set, taken up peppers, little garlic, salt and vinegar; cover drained; served plain or on buttered toast, with water, simmered till done taken up and CURRIED EGG S-H a rd boiled eggs with their drained; served with Allemande sauce, garn- shells iem reheated - n a cu sauce made ishedw,th parsley and lemon. from u stQck; bed Qf ric(j - n centre FRIED CONGER EEL, TARTAR SAUCE- o{ dish sprinkled with finely chopped parsley; Portion cuts skinned and boned, steamed for whh the back o{ a spoon indentures made to ten minutes, then seasoned with salt and pep- receive the eggs; served with the sauce poured per, breaded, fried; served with Tartar sauce, arou nd the base, garnished with parsley and lemon. CURRIED CONGER EEL WITH RICE-Por- STUFFED EGGS-Hard boiled eggs with their tion cuts skinned and boned, marinaded for an she " s rem ? d ' s P ht gAwise. yolks removed hour in salt water and vinegar, taken up, and P ounded Wlth a chov y meat and bu " er ' rinsed in cold water, wiped dry, seasoned with fi^ back into the whites, smoothed over, dec- salt and pepper, rolled in flour, fried with but- orated and served ' ter, removed into a sautoir; minced onions, DEVILLED EGGS Hard boiled eggs with their chives and a clove of garlic fried in the remain- shells removed, split in halves lengthwise, ing butter, flour added to form a roux, moist- dipped in beaten egg, then in oil, sprinkled with ened with fish stock, brought to the boil and salt and red pepper, arranged in baking pan on skimmed, then simmered for half an hour; the a sheet of oiled paper, thoroughly heated; eels sprinkled with curry powder, sauce served on toast with sauce Diable poured over, strained over them, simmered till done, finished into which has been mixed some Bengal chut- with cayenne pepper and lemon juice; served ney. inside a^border of dry boiled grains of rice. MASKED EGGS, MADEIRA SAUCE Hard EEL-POUT Is a combination of eel, catfish and boiled eggs with the shells removed, coated some other kind of fish; breeds its young alive with chicken forcemeat, then dipped into beaten instead of with eggs; is more of ten called the egg, baked; served with Madeira sauce poured "BURBOT". It is good boiled and served with over, garnished with fancy croutons, oyster sauce. EQG RAREB IT Hard boiled eggs with the EGGS-That is, hen's eggs as most generally shells removed , cut lengthwise in slices, ar- used in cookery (other birds' eggs will be found ranged on ser ving platter, seasoned with salt under their respective headings) are very and p epper> covered with a mixture of grated nutritious, easily digested, and are used in a cheese mixed with butteri browned O ff in oven; multitude of ways, but the following recipes served very hot will be found to be those most applicable to T?,~/-Q T>T?rVT?\rr-AT T? CATT ordinary hotel, restaurant and club patronage. ^^P E ?5 5S : F 7 5t K [Inexperienced hotel butchers have spoiled Timbale molds brushed with butter, bottoms much meat through their brine, by using the egg sprmkled Wlth mi ced f " ed shallots - eggs then test for strength, the test being that when the brokeQ m ' h " e Cr in proportion of one-third EGGS, INDIAN STYLE Into a soubise sauce cheese to two-thirds beaten eggs, form the ome- is worked enough curry powder to lightly color let, when placed on the serving dish sprinkle a it, brought to a simmer, eggs poached in it; little grated cheese on top of the omelet an^ served on circular slices of toast with some brown off very quickly in a hot oven, sauce poured around. OMELET WITH CHICKEN LIVERS-Blanch EGGS BREADED, CREOLE SAUCE Eggs the livers, then cut them into dice, fry them boiled five minutes, shelled, dipped in thick lightly in butter for ten minutes with some Hollandaise sauce, then in breadcrumbs, then minced shallots and mushrooms, season with breaded and fried; served with Creole sauce or salt and pepper and add a little chopped pars- garniture, ley, enclose a spoonful within the omelet, and EGGS WITH BROWN BUTTER Eggs fried serve a little Hanover sauce at both ends of with plenty of butter that is hot enough to turn the omelet - a nice brown color and froth up; when set, OMELET WITH CHIPPED BEEF Scald, taken up on toast; to the frothing butter is then drain, and mince the dried beef, mix it with added a little tarragon vinegar, poured over the the beaten eggs, and form the omelet, ponr a eggs and served immediately. little cream sauce around when serving. FRICASSEE OF EGGS Yolks and whites OMELET WITH HAM Cooked minced ham steamed separately till set; when cold scooped made hot in Madeira sauce enclosed within the out with oval cutter, made hot in an onion omelet, cream sauce and served. Raw minced Ham with a little minced shallot EGGS WITH CAVIARE-Slices of hard boiled and P arsle y fried tiU done - omelet mixture eggs on buttered toast, the yolk covered with P oured over U - formed and served - caviare forced through a bag and star tube. Minced fned ham beaten up with the eggs, EGGS IN CROUSTADE-Whites and yolks of P UrCd m * " Omdet **' ^^ ^ ""^ eggs steamed till set; when cold, cut in form of OMELET WITH LAMB KIDNEYS. auMadSre dice with equa> quantities of ham, tongue and Cut the kidneys into small dice and fry them button mushrooms, reheated in Supreme sauce, with minced shallots for three minutes, add a filled into hot paste croustades and served. little Madeira sauce and chopped parsley, en- close a spoonful within the omelet and pour EGGS SCRAMBLED WITH TOMATOES- some of sauce around . One cupful of minced onions, 12 medium sized WTTW <;wFKTRT?FAnq Pook^ tomatoes rubbed through a sieve, mixed, seas- OMELET WITH SWEETBREADS Cooked oned with salt, pepper and butter, simmered sweetbreads, cut in dice, simmered in mush- till onion is done, 12 eggs then broken into the room sauce - a spoonful enclosed within the simmering mixture, tossed about till set; served omelet and a little sauce P oured around - in cases. OMELET WITH MUSHROOMS If fresh SCRAMBLED EGGS IN CASES-Eggs beaten mushrooms, peel, trim and cut into dice and with minced green herbs, salt and pepper, **?' If canned, cut them in thin slices and fry; scrambled with plenty of butter; served in drain and mix them into Madura sauce, enclose fancy paper cases a spoonful in the omelet, serve with a spoonful of the mushrooms at each end of the dish. EGGS WITH ONION PUREE-Slices of hot QHRTMPS MFXIPAN hard boiled eggs arranged around a centre of OMELET WITH SHRIMPS MEXICAN thick puree of onions in Veloute sauce. STYLE-Take fresh or canned shrimps, cut in halves, mix with some finely chopped green OMELET WITH BACON Plain or with Pi- peppers, put it into a V^lout^ sauce containing quante sauce. Cut the bacon into small dice, some lobster butter, simmer for five minutes, fry fairly well done, pour off most of the fat, enclose a spoonful within the omelet, turn on turn in the beaten eggs, mix and form. to the serving dish, place two whole shrimps on OMELET WITH VEAL KIDNEYS-Roasted to P- and P our some o the sauce around - kidneys cut in dice, and made hot in a little OMELET WITH FINE HERBS Beat up with demi-glaze and chopped parsley. Enclose the the eggs, some finely minced shallots, thyme, mixture within the omelet; serve with a Madeira marjoram, chervil, chives and parsley, season sauce poured around. with salt and pepper, form the omelet and serve. 8o THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. SPANISH OMELET Finely shred onions, sauce, make hot, enclose within the omelet, minced green peppers, minced mushrooms, serve with Veloute sauce poured around. solid tomatoes cut in small pieces, the whole CREOLE OMELET Chopped green peppers, fried in butter for five minutes, then add some onions, garlic, okras and a little boiled rica, tomato sauce, season with salt and pepper, re- made hot in thick tomato sauce, enclosed within duce till thick, enclose a spoonful within the the omelet, and spoonfuls served at ends of ths omelet; when on the serving dish, place a spoon- omelet on the dish. ful of the mixture at each end of the omelet and EGG PLANT, TURKISH STYLE Peeled egg garnish the top with fancy strips of Pimentoes plant in slices, sprinkled with salt; after having in oil. laid a few minutes, wiped dry, then fried a OMELET WITH PARSLEY Mix some finely golden color with butter; cold rare roast beef chopped parsley, pepper and salt with the beaten minced fine with a very little onion, mixed with eggs, form and serve. a few slices of peeled tomatoes, chopped pars- OMELET WITH TOMATOES-Stew fresh or le y- salt and P e PP er = stewed down thick - g ratin canned tomatoes with a little butter, sugar, salt dlshes buttered, bottom covered with the egg and pepper to a thick pulp, enclose within the P lant - mince next - this covered with more egg omelet, pour tomato sauce around, P lant - moistened with rich roast beef gravy, OMELET WITH TOMATOED RICE-Take baked half an hour and served. some boiled rice, and moisten ii with reduced FRIED EGG PLANT-Egg plant peeled, cut m tomato sauce, enclose within the omelet, and slices - sprinkled with salt and allowed to marin- pour tomato sauce around, ade for an hour ' then wi P ed ^ rolled in flour ' dlpped mt beaten CggS ' fried and served - BROILED EGG PLANT ON TOAST-P^d , , ... , . . egg plant cut in slices, sprinkled with salt and sauce, enclose a spoonful within the omelet; "J to remain for an hour, then wiped dry, when on the serving dish place three whole . , . . , , , .. , scalded oysters on top of the omelet, pour some r " ed "> fl ur tl \ en melted butter ' br lled oyster sauce over all and sprinkle whh parsley and baSted j > ^ V ! ) d *"T n ' , / t STUFFED EGG PLANT Small egg plant not OMELET WITH FRENCH PEAS -Simmer some French peas in reduced Veloute sauce till side; ^ ed ^ mixed thick; place a spoonful within the omelet and a cooked saU ^ buttoQ mushroomSi minced spoonful at each end of the omelet on the serv- shallots cfa d chiyes and j fijled . ntQ ing dish, with cream sauce poured around. Ae iled hi h smoothed over and OMELET WITH EGG PLANT Cut the egg baked plant into dice fry it in butter; when done add EGQ pLANT FRITTER s_p ee led egg plant cut a little meat glaze, enclose within the omelet fa ^ fof aQ faour weH ^ whh and pour some brown sauce around. ^ then wiped d djpped iQ ^^ slowly OMELET WITH SPINACH-Beat some puree {ried in hot fat; served plain as a ve g et able or of spinach with the eggs, season with salt and as ^ accompaniment to meat. pepper, form and serve. EGG PLANT WITH CHEESE Make "the OMELET WITH SPRING VEGETABLES broiled egg plant on toast" mentioned above; Cut a jardiniere or macedoine of vegetables when finished and on the toast, cover it with a (or use canned macedoine), boil till tender.drain, slice of ch eese, place in hot oven till cheese is moisten with a little demi-glaze or Supreme melted and browned; served at once. sauce, enclose within the omelet, and decorate EGG PLANT STEWED Peeled egg plant cut the top of the omelet with the vegetables, pour - n pieces size of small eggs cold roast bee{ or some of the sauce used around. mutton cut in small pieces and mixed into a OMELET WITH ASPARAGUS POINTS rich gravy with a minced onion and peeled to- Take cooked asparagus points, make them hot matoes, brought to the boil, egg plant then put in Allemande sauce, enclose within the omelet in, simmered till done, then served. and pour some of the sauce around. ENDIVE Also called CHICORY Is cooked as OMELET WITH OLIVES Take the olives, a vegetable same as spinach; also made into stone them, slice them into four slices, make salads, using the white leaves; dressed with them hot in Madeira sauce, enclose within the French dressing. omelet, decorate the top of the omelet with EPIGRAMME A term used in cookery to denote slices of olives, and pour some Soubise sauce one kind of meat served in two forms on the around. same dish, such as, two chops, one breaded and OMELET WITH MINCED CHICKEN Take fried, the other broiled; served resting on each minced cooked chicken, moisten it with Ve'loute' other. See heading of respective meats. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. ESPAGNOLE Name of a stock sauce, used as a basis to form many of the brown sauces; made by frying in a thick bottomed large sauce- pan till brown, ham, veal and beef in meat and bones; carrots, onions, turnips, celery and pars- ley; flour then added to form a roux, moistened gradually with good brown stock, seasoned with thyme, savory, marjoram, bay leaves, cloves, whole peppers, and whole allspice; when boiled np, skimmed, then is added a liberal quantity of tomatoes, together with one or two old fowls or roast poultry carcasses, simmered slowly for several hours, strained, skimmed, finished with sherry wine. EXTRACTS Or flavorings used in the making of ice creams, jellies, cakes, puddings, sweet sauces, etc., can be made much cheaper than buying at the stores and paying for fancy labels and bottles; the point is to obtain good oils and pure alcohol. EXTRACT OF CLOVES 2 ozs. oil of cloves, i pint of alcohol, mix and use. EXTRACT OF ANISEED i oz. of oil of anise, i pint of alcohol, mix and use. EXTRACT OF CINNAMON i oz. oil of cinna- mon, i pint of alcohol, mix and use. EXTRACT OF BITTER ALMOND 2 ozs. oil of bitter almond, i pint of alcohol, mix and use. EXTRACT OF LEMON 2 ozs. oil of lemon, i pint of alcohol, mix and use. EXTRACT OF WINTERGREEN i oz. oil of wintergreen, i quart of alcohol, mix and use. EXTRACT OF SARSAPARILLA i oz. each of oils of sassafras and wintergreen, i quart of al- cohol, mix and use. EXTRACT OF VANILLA 2 ozs. of vanilla beans, 6 ozs. of alcohol, 12 ozs. of water; cut the beans small and bruise them, put them in wide mouthed bottles, cover with the alco- hol and water, steep for two weeks, shaking it up every two days. FARINA A fine granular pieparation made from wheat. Of two kinds, white and graham, the lat- ter being used as a breakfast cereal, the former for puddings, quenelles and as a soup thicken- ing. BAKED FARINA PUDDING i gallon of milk, i pound of farina, ^ of a pound of sugar, ^ a pound of butter, 5 whole and 6 yolks of eggs; made by boiling the milk and sugar together, then sprinkling in the farina, stirring continu- ally till smooth, simmered for % of an hour, then is added the beaten eggs and butter; flav- ored to taste; poured into buttered pudding pans, baked till set; served with a sweet or wine sauce, preserved fruit, or compote of stewed fruit. BOILED FARINA PUDDING Generally served cold with sweetened or flavored cream, whipped cream, stewed fruit or fruit marma- lade; if after it is boiled it is poured into caps and set, they are called Farina cup custards. Made with ^ gallon of milk, j pound of sugar, YZ pound of farina, % ot a pound of butter and six yolks of eggs. FARINA FRITTERS The above mixture when boiled is poured into a shallow pan brushed with butter; when cold and firm cut into slices, double breaded, fried, taken up and rolled in powdered sugar; served with fruit sauce. FENNEL Name of a garden plant, esteemed as a flavoring to boiled salmon and mackerel; used in making "fennel sauce," which is the same as parsley sauce, simply substituting chopped fennel for parsley leaves. FIGS As seen in our markets are both fresh and dried; the fresh are used in compotes and for preserves, the dried for cakes, puddings, ices, pastilles; also used as a dessert, either plain or rolled in powdered sugar. FINANCIERS Name of both a sauce and garn- ish, much used; the sauce is composed as fol- lows: one pint of sherry wine with a chopped truffle and a seasoning of red pepper is rapidly boiled down to half its volume, then is added one pint of espagnole; boiled again for five minutes, then strained for use. For the garn- ish composition see heading of "garnishes." FINE HERBS Called by the French "fines- herbes"; it is a combination of minced shallots, mushrooms and parsley. FINE HERBS SAUCE is the ingredients mixed into some espagnole or other brown sauce. FINNAN HADDIE Is the name commercially given to smoked haddocks (see haddocks); they are imported to this country and sell generally at 10 cents per pound. BROILED FINNAN HADDIE Skinned, soaked in warm water for half an hour, taken up and wiped dry, the backbone removed from the bone side, seasoned with pepper, brushed with butter, broiled and basted; served very hot with a sauce composed of melted butter, contain- ing lemon juice, mustard and chopped parsley. BOILED FINNAN HADDIE Prepared as in the preceding, put to boil in cold water, (unless very thick three or four minutes boiling is suf- ficient) served with Maitre D'Hotel buttef spread on the fish, garnished with parsley. BAKED FINNAN HADDIE Prepared as for broiling, arranged in baking pan, moistened witk milk and melted butter, quickly baked and basted; served with the sauce given for broiled. FINNAN HADDIE, DELMONICO STYLE Prepared as for broiling, the fillets then arranged in a shallow sautoir, moistened with cream, boiled for five minutes, little Madeira wine then added, boiled up again, then is stirred in 82 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. a liaison of egg yolks and cream; when thick- ened like thin custard a little more Madeira wine added; served very hot in a chafing dish. FLAGEOLETS A green haricot bean put up in cans by the French and imported to this country; makes a very pleasing garnish, are cheap, the best being about $1.75 a dozen cans. FLANNEL CAKES A sort of pancake; for recipe see heading of Batter. FLOUNDERS A flat fish of the halibut species but much smaller, in plentiful supply, very often filleted, in fact generally used in this country for fillets of soles; the name flounder seldom appears on our bills of fare, hence its recipes will be found under that heading. FOIE-GRAS Literally fat liver, is made by taking the livers of fat geese, cooking them with sweet herbs, wine and bacon, then pound- ing it, rubbing it through a fine sieve, the paste thus obtained being put away in small jars, very often mixed with truffles; it is used for sandwiches, garnishes, in croustades with aspic jelly; cut in pieces and mixed with button mushrooms in a rich sauce, then filled into scallop shells, gratinated, baked and served; also for lining game pies and patties; as a stuf- fing for small game birds, etc. FONDU Is the name given by the French to a dish of eggs scrambled soft with grated cheese and butter; served very hot on toast, or filled into fancy paper cases, quickly browned on top and served. FORCEMEAT Name given to a highly seasoned mince that has been rubbed through a sieve; used in making quenelles, lining pies, etc. CHICKEN FORCEMEAT Raw breast of chick- en with the skin removed, pounded, rubbed through a tamis mixed with a little cream and strained whites of raw eggs, seasoned with salt, red pepper, nutmeg and lemon juice. VEAL FORCEMEAT OR GODIVEAU Equal quantities of veal or beef kidney suet and lean veal minced, pounded, rubbed through a sieve with chopped chives, then is mixed in yolks of eggs at the rate of two to each pound of meat, then finished to the proper consistency with some strained cold Ve'loute' sauce. HAM AND LIVER FORCEMEAT Light col- ored calf's liver and fat ham in equal quantities cut in small pieces, the liver laid in clear cold water long enough to extract the blood, so that the forcemeat will be whiter; after which it is drained and wiped, the ham sauteed over a quick fire, then the liver in the ham fat, of a golden color together with some chopped shal- lots, .parsley and mushrooms, seasoned with red pepper, salt and a little mixed spices, the whole then chopped fine, pounded, rubbed through a sieve; it is then ready for use. FRANGIPANE Name given to a cooked cus- tard cream used iu filling puffs, eclairs, tart- lettes, paper cases for souffles, open pies as cream pies, etc. Made by boiling half a gallon of milk with ^ of a pound of sugar, then pour- ing it to 12 yolks of eggs that have been beaten and mixed with y z a pound of sifted flour and a little cream; it is then returned to the fire with 4 ounces of butter, brought just to a boil, removed, flavored and strained for use. FRANKFORTS Name of a pork sausage that is generally served with "sauerkraut." Made of equal quantities of lean and fat pork minced finely, seasoned with 3 ounces of mixed ground coriander seeds, salt, nutmeg and pepper to every 8 pounds, the sausage skins filled in the ordinary way, then hung in a dry cool place till wanted. FRAPPE A French word that signifies a liquor is half frozen. FRENCH DRESSING Four parts of olive oil to one part of vinegar, white or tarragon, a little onion juice, finely chopped parsley, salt and red pepper, the whole thoroughly mixed. FRIANTINE French word sometimes used to designate a "bouche'e" or small patty shell, hence a small patty of game may be called a friantine of game. FRICADELLES, ALSO CALLED FRICAN- DELLES Are made of three-fifths cold cooked meat, one-fifth raw meat, one-fifth bread crumbs or boiled rice, the whole minced, sea- soned with salt, pepper, parsley, herbs and lemon juice, bound with beaten eggs, made up into balls, pats, cutlet shapes, etc., fried in dripping, or breaded and fried, then served with a sauce or garniture appropriate to the meat used. FRICANDEAU Name applied to the whole but- tock or cushion of veal, that is larded, braised, and served in broad slices with a sauce or garniture. FRITTERS Are either a mixture of fruits, veg- etables, meat or poultry combined with flour and eggs to form a batter; or the article en- closed within a batter, then fried crisp, or baked as for eclairs, etc. CANDIED PEEL FRITTERS Candied orange, lemon and citron peel chopped fine and mixed into a stiff batter composed of i pound of flour moistened with two-thirds sweet wine and one- third brandy; after all mixed, the whipped whites of ten eggs are stirred in, the mix- tare is then placed in a forcing bag with large tube, and forced out into boiling fat, fried crisp and done through, taken up, drained, rolled in powdered sugar; served with wine sauce, fruit pure"e or marmalade. Deviations may be made by using the imported "fruits glaces" such as angelica, poires, cerises, etc. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 3 FRUIT FRITTERS Blackberries, raspberries, in batter and fried; served with orange sauce dewberries, strawberries, etc. mixed into a me- made from the syrup they were blanched in. dium stiff batter without breaking the fruit, CONFITURE FRITTERS Also called "beig- dropped by spoonfuls into very hot fat, fried, nets aux confitures." Fruit marmalade spread drained; served with a sauce made of the fruit between two thin slices of plain cake, then used, the fritter being dusted with powdered dipped in batter and fried. su g ar - PEACH FRITTERS Halves of peeled fresh SPANISH PUFF FRITTERS Made by boiling fruit or canned ones drained, dipped in batter together 7 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of sugar, and and fried; served with a thick syrup sauce into one pint of water; when boiling, 9 ozs. of sifted which has been worked some peach butter, the flour is thrown in all av once, and stirred till fritters dusted with sugar, well cooked, about five minutes, then removed APRICOT FRITTERS Same as the preceding from the fire and ten eggs beaten in one at a but substituting apricots for peaches; an- time, each egg to be thoroughly incorporated other way is to form a half apricot from rice before the next is put in; with the last egg is croquette mixture, and putting the half apricot added a tablespoonful of vanilla extract; with it, pinning with a toothpick, dipped in dropped in small spoonfuls in medium hot fat batter and fried, toothpick then removed; they will expand into hollow balls about the served with sauce, size of an orange; room must be allowed to PINEA pp LE FRITTERS Slices of cored can- allow of their expansion and for them to roll ne( j pineapple drained, dipped in batter and over; when done, drained; served dusted with fried; served with a wine syrup glace sauce, powdered sugar, vanilla or wine sauce around. CORN FRITTERS _ Co oked corn cut from the QUEEN FRITTERS Same as the preceding, cob> or canne d corn, pounded, mixed with but omitting the sugar and vanilla in the mix- flour eggs and butter, seasoned with salt, ture; when done, they may be split in the side dropped by spoonfuls in hot fat, fried; served and filled with pastry cream, either as a veg etable or garnish. CUSTARD FRITTERS- -Boiling milk and sugar PARS NIP FRITTERS-The parsnips boiled, thickened stiff with cornstarch, some beaten then masned an d mixed with flour, eggs and eggs then worked in, flavored with extract butter> seasoned w ith salt and white pepper, poured into shallow pan; when cold, cut into, (the mixture should be medium soft) dropped diamond shapes, breaded, fried; served with by spoonfuls in hot f at; w hen done, served as a custard sauce. vegetable or garnish. CHOCOLATE FRITTERS-Same as the pre- FROG S-There are two kinds on the market, the ceding, but boiling some chocolate with the small marsh f aud the large bull {rog . the milk; served withvanilla cream sauce. bull is the most conveni ent for use and trade, APPLE FRITTERS Apples peeled, cored, giving the guest most satisfaction, and the cook leaving the stalk on, the core hole filled with i ea st trouble in preparation, stiff fruit marmalade; dipped into a stiff batter, FRmD FRQGS> TARTAR SAUCE-The legs slowly fried till done; served dusted with marinaded for an hour in lemon juice, salt and powdered sugar. pepper, w - pedi ^^ jn flouri theQ breaded APPLE FRITTERS Large good cooking apples and f r i ed; served with tartar sauce, garnished peeled and cored, cut in slices, dipped in bat- w j t h lemon slices and parsley, ter.fried; served with fruits, rum or wine sauce. BROILED FROG L EGS-The legs marinaded RICE FRITTERS Well boiled rice drained for an hour in O i ive oil, lemon juice, salt and and pounded, mixed with egps, sugar and a pepper, taken up, floured, broiled and basted little flour; flavored with grated lemon rind, with the mar i na de till done; served with Maitre made into flat round cakes with a depression in D'Hotel butter, garnished with lemon and pars- the centre, fried; served coated with powdered \ ey dl ^ depreSSi D *"* with marma ' STEWED FROG LEGS WITH PEAS-Frog legs blanched for a few minutes in salted vine- GERMAN FRITTERS Very light roll dough gar water, then drained and put into a rich cut out in thin -flats, little jam placed in centre Ve'loute' sauce, simmered till done; served with of one, covered with another flat, allowed to a border of saute"ed green peas, rise, then fried, drained, rolled in powdered FRICASSEE OF FROG LEGS-Frog legs lightly sugar and served; also called "Bismarks." saut^ed with butter and minced shallots, taken ORANGE FRITTERS Quarters of skinned up, the butter then lightly browned, flour added oranges with the seeds removed blanched in a to form a roux, moistened with chicken stock, thick syrup, taken up and drained, then dipped brought to the boil, skimmed, seasoned with THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. salt, red pepper and sherry wine, legs put back into it and simmered till done. FROG LEGS, SOUTHERN STYLE Frog legs saute"ed with butter and minced shallots, then taken up; to the butter and shallois is now added a little raw lean ham cut in small dice, together with a chopped green pepper; when ham is nearly done, add two quarts of chicken consomme, a quart can each of okra and toma- toes, brought to the boil, a cupful of well washed rice then added; when rice is nearly done, the frog legs are put in and simmered till tender. It should be a thick stew. Served, the legs in centre of dish with the vegetables around as a garnish. FROG LEGS SAUTE, PROVENCALE The legs seasoned with salt and pepper, then sau- te'ed with butter, taken up into a sautoir, cov- ered with Provencale sauce, simmered till tender; served garnished with small stuffed onions and tomatoes. FROG LEGS SAUTES, POULETTE The legs seasoned with salt and pepper, then sau- teed with butter and minced shallots, taken up into a sautoir, covered with sauce Poulette, simmered till tender; served with the sauce, garnished with flageolet beans and fancy crou- tons. FROG LEGS SAUTE, BORDELAISE The legs saute'ed with minced ham, garlic, shal- lots, thyme and butter, taken up, to the resi- due is then added sauce Espagnole with a glass of claret wine; this is then reduced to a demi-glaze and strained over the legs; served garnished with fried slices of beef marrow. FROG OMELET, SOUTHERN STYLE Shredded frog meat left over from either of the four preceding receipts, mixed into a sauce camposed of one-third each of tomato, Espag- nole and Creole sauce; a spoonful enclosed within a savory omelet; served with more of the frog meat down he sides. GALANTINE A name applied to fowl, some game, fish and meat that may be boned, stuffed, boiled, braised or roasted, then pressed and cut into slices for service when cold, either plain or filled into molds with aspic jelly and decor- ated. GALANTINE OF TURKEY OR CHICKEN Two birds, the larger one to be singed, the smaller skinned, the birds' skin split down the back from the head to tail, the carcass re- moved without further breaking the skin; the large one laid out flat, skin downwards, sea- soned with salt, pepper and powdered mixed herbs; the under fillets of the breast to be filled into the space which the breastbone occupied, the wing and leg meat drawn inwards and the sinews removed, the whole then spread with a force or sausage meat; two strips each of cooked tongue and fat salt pork arranged alternately down the centre, also some slices of truffles if at hand; the meat of the smaller bird then laid over the stuffing, the white meat covering the dark of the other bird, so that when cut, light and dark meat is served to each portion; the skin of the large bird is then drawn together and sewn closely, placed into a cloth which is again sewn and tied at the ends like a roly poly pudding, plunged into boiling seasoned white stock and simmered till done; taken up and while still hot, pressed into a mold with screw pressure or weight on top; when set and cold, the cloth removed, the bird wiped with a hot cloth to remove all grease and stains, it is then sliced for the table. If the birds are both young and juicy, instead of being boiled they may be braised or roasted (of course without being tied in a cloth), when done, taken up, pressed, trimmed and glazed. GALANTINES are however generally served with aspic jelly, and the nicest way is to take the birds when pressed, wipe and trim, cut in- to even slices; galantine molds lined with aspic jelly, then decorated with cooked peas, mace"- doines, fancy shapes of white of eggs, beet, car- rot and truffles, these decorations again coa ted with aspic to keep them in position, the slices of bird then laid into the mold EDGES DOWN- WARDS not laid flat; limpid aspic run between each slice; when the mold is full, set, turned out, decorated and sent to table. I have seen galantines served at banquets where the slices of meat have been laid flat in the mold, with the result that the waiters could not procure a decent slice to serve; had the edges been placed downwards, the waiter or serving man would have been able to move each slice with the jelly adhering simply by the aid of a fork. GAME Name applied in a culinary sense to birds and animals fit fat table use that are hunted by sportsmen, the animals and birds not being domesticated; these embrace wood- cock, quail, snipe, partridge, wild ducks, geese and brant, prairie chickens, grouse, pheasant, reed birds, rail sora, ortolans, rice birds, sage hens, wheat ears, larks, capercailzie, plover, etc., squirrels, hares, venison, moose, caribou, black bear, elk, antelope, mountain sheep and goat; recipes will be found under each respec- tive heading. GARDEN PARTIES Country club stewards and caterers are often called upon to prepare for and superintend garden parties, and as a rule the meal is served out of doors, under a marquee. When the steward or caterer has several through the summer season, invarably the same guests are to be found, he must there- fore rack his brains to continually change the card. Solid food is NOT REQUIRED. The refreshments should be tea and coffee, various THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. kinds of cups, delicate sandwiches of minced and creamed meat and fish, individual cakes, rolled bread and butter, ices, fruit; strawberries and cream are usually served from large silver bowls. The buffet should be well supplied with canapes, bouche"es, timbales, darioles, individ- ual galantines made in fancy gem pans all things to be of an individual form as far as pos- sible. Whatever wines are used should be of the light and sparkling variety, never anything heavy and heating. GARFISH Name of a fish with an elongated mouth resembling in body both mackerel and eel; they are prepared and served in all the ways applicable to eels. GARLIC Name of a podded or cloved form of onion of very strong taste and flavor, always to be used sparingly ; it enters into many soups, sauces and ragouts; in the recipes requiring it, the word clove, signifies one of the sections. dARNISHES Name given to mixture of small tasty foods in sauce, used as a garnish and appropriate sauce to the main article served. Unhappily there are so many garnishes, that the average cook has not the brain to retain but a limited number, and not one cook in a hun- dred could sit down and write the component parts of twenty garnitures right off the reel. It is the garnishes that stupefy the guests and make them order plain roast turkey; that cov- ers the "bills of fare" with worse than mongrel French; that spoils many a good dish because the garnish used is not appropriate to the food served; that makes the country hotel keeper ask the cook what he wants this and that for; that makes the guest when he looks at the bill of fare exclaim: What in thunder is a la Montmor- ency! a la this and a la that. The following garnishes are the most principal in use, are put in a simple way to memorize, not only their ingredients; but that most important point that up to date no cook book has ever attempted to show. THE DISHES THAT THE GARN- ISHES ARE APPROPRIATE TO. ADMIRAL Composed of shrimps, boiled cray- fish tails, fried tufts of parsley, oysters or mussels blanched, drained, dipped in Villeroi sauce then breaded and fried; appropriate as a garnish to WHOLE fish, the parts arranged in small groups around the fish with Admiral sauce served separately. ALLEMANDE For braised meat, is composed of stewed sauerkrout, prunes and potato cakes arranged around the meat, with Poivrade sauce poured under it. ALLEMANDE For boiled leg of pork: omit the stewed prunes and potato cakes, substitut- ing glazed pieces of carrot, turnip and small onions. ALLEMANDE For boiled chicken: the garn- ish is quenelles of potatoes poached, then cov- ered with fried bread crumbs, arranged around the chicken with Allemande sauce poured un- der. This same is applied to most fowl and game served a 1'Allemande. ALLEMANDE For braised fish such as carp or pike, the garnish is composed of small fish quenelles, button mushrooms, crayfish tails, and either small oysters or mussels, arranged around the fish with Allemande sauce in which has been worked some of the fish braise and anchovy butter. ALLEMANDE For roast or braised venison, the meat is garnished with prunes stewed in red wine, potato quenelles, and a sauce poured over the meat; made by taking equal parts of red currant jelly, Burgundy wine and Espag- nole sauce, boiling them together with the rind and juice of an orange, and a piece of stick cinnamon, then strain. ANDALOUSE Small stuffed tomatoes and green peppers, with a small mold of dry boiled rice, arranged alternately around a dish of braised or roast meat or fowl, with Andalouse sauce poured under the meat. AURORE Composed of small fish quenelles, button mushrooms and blanched oysters or mussels, the whole mixed into Aurora sauce; appropriate to garnish cutlets of fish, such as salmon trout, pike, cod, snapper, halibut, etc. ANGLAISE For boiled beef is composed of neatly trimmed plain boiled carrots and turnips, arranged alternately around the meat with suet dumplings; piquante sauce served separately. ANGLAISE For roast beef or fillet, is small browned potatoes at the side of the meat, with scraped horseradish at the ends. ANGLAISE For calf's head, is composed of a slice each of boiled bacon and glazed tongue, and served either with parsley or devil sauce. ANGLAISE For boiled chicken,, is composed of tufts of boiled cauliflower, a thin slice of ham, and Bechamel sauce poured around. ANGLAISE For roast goose, is garnished with plain sage and onion stuffing, a brown gravy poured over, and apple sauce served separ- ately. ANGLAISE For boiled leg of mutton, is garn- ished with a small mold of mashed white turnips, alternated with a trimmed boiled car- rot, and served with caper sauce. ANGLAISE For boiled leg of salt pork, is garn- ished with trimmed boiled carrots and turnips, arranged alternately around the meat with a puree of split peas. ANGLAISE For roast pork, is garnished with sage and onion stuffing in spoonfuls alternately with a small baked apple; brown gravy or apple sauce served separately. 86 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. ANGLAISE For boiled salmon, is garnished sauce, which is made of fried onions with a either with shrimp, mussel or parsley sauce. suspicion of garlic, moistened with Drown ANGLAISE For roast turkey, is composed of sauce, seasoned, then rubbed through a tamis; small pork sausages fried, a slice of boiled ham, small olive shapes of potatoes fried a light bacon, or salt pork, stewed chestnuts, arranged brown in butter, generally accompanies the alternately around the meat with stuffiing un- beans in the garniture. der it, poivrade sauce poured around. CARDINAL Composed of small quenelles of [THE ENGLISH WAY of serving salmis of lobster, small turned truffles and button mush- game is to simply garnish with button mush- rooms - a11 mixed into a Cardinal sauce; appro- rooms and croutons. Their roast venison is P riate to serve with stuffed baked P ik e, carp, served plain with Yorkshire sauce]. boiled salmon, turbot, halibut, fillets of sole. , , . boudins of lobster, paupiettes of sole, fillets of AFRICAINE Composed of stewed okras, arti- trout gtc choke bottoms and pieces of egg plant mixed into an Espagnole saSce; appropriate to serve CHAMBORD - Composed of fish quenelles with braised veal and fowls. truffles ' button mushrooms, crayfish, small fish roes, moistened with Genevoise sauce for the AU JUS-Dishes so named are served with their one part Crayfish tails, turned truffles, small natural juice or gravy. fisn roes moistened with Villeroi sauce for the BAYARD Composed of circular slices of red second part; appropriate to garnish WHOLE tongue, truffles, mushrooms and artichokes, all fi sn , such as salmon for a banquet table, the boiled down with a little Madeira wine, then two colored garnishes being used alternately, mixed into Espagnole sauce; appropriate to jntersticed with whole crayfish. serve with sweetbreads, lamb fries and other CHIPOLAT A Composed of small glazed onions, white meat entries, the ends of the dish being glazed balls of carrot and tumi chestnutSi garnished with croutons spread with foie-gras. cocks combs and kernels or pieces of chickejli BORDELAISE Composed of slices of parboiled pieces of braised bacon, balls of veal or pork ox marrow and Bordelaise sauce, or a sauce or sausages and button mushrooms, the whole butter composed of minced shallots, a suspic- moistened with Financiere sauce; appropriate ion of garlic, minced parsley and butter; served to garnish small birds on toast, braised cutlets with broiled steaks. of mutton, roast pheasants, roast suckling pig, BORDELAISE For matelote of eels, is com- roast turkey, saute" of rabbit, braised prairie posed of very small onions stewed, button hen - partridge with cabbage, braised capon, mushrooms and blanched sautded oysters, the cutlets of turkey, etc. whole sprinkled with chopped parsley, arranged CHIVRY Composed of blanched oysters coated alternately round the matelote with fancy crofi- with Villeroi sauce, then breaded and fried; tons; no sauce. small potato croquettes, small bouche>s of BORDELAISE For roast quails, is a garnish oysters, and crayfish tails dipped in Villeroi of slices of truffles and mushrooms mixed into sauce; a PPropriate garnish to whole fish. a Bordelaise sauce. DUCHESSE Composed of strips of red tongue BOURGIGNOTTE OR BOURGIGNONNE-Is and cocks combs mixed in V&out6 sauce; composed of very small onions stewed, then a PP r P" a * * white meat entrees. glazed, with an equal quantity of button mush- DAUPHINE Composed of Duchesse potatoes, rooms and small quenelles of forcemeat all fried tufts of parsley and Italian sauce; used for mixed into a Bourgignotte sauce; appropriate *"ed cutlets of chicken, veal cutlets, etc. to serve with croustade of quails, cutlets of DURAND Composed of trimmed slices of truf- sturgeon sautes, cutlets of mutton same's, fl es , chicken livers, mushrooms, ham, sweet- braised pigeon cutlets, salmis of small birds, breads, bacon, olives stuffed with truffle farce, etc. cockscombs, gherkins, and hard boiled yolks BOUERGOISE Consists of plain root vegeta- of eggs cut in halves, the whole moistened bles glazed; appropriate for simple dishes, with Espagnole sauce that is flavored with such as, glazed shortribs of beef, braised flank thyme; appropriate garnish to fricandeaus, of beef, rolled breast of veal, etc. roast or braised legs of mutton, cushions of BOHEMIENNE Composed of stoned olives, veal - etc - button mushrooms, small onions and balls of D'ARTOIS A fish garnish composed of strips or potatoes; appropriate to garnish braised and circles of puff paste containing a salpicon of roast meat, under which is poured Poivrade cooked crayfish tails, oysters, mushrooms and sauce. white fleshed fish. BRETONNE A garnish chiefly used with DUMAS A garnish to be used with game; corn- braised leg of mutton; composed of boiled navy posed of ham, veal kidneys, cooked and cut in- beans, drained, then moistened with Brelonne to small sections, then moistened with Madeira THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. sance containing chopped parsley, tarragon and lemon juice. ECARLETTE-Composed of pieces of red tongue, corned beef and mushrooms moistened with a Villeroi sauce; appropriate to garnish blanq- ettes, supreTnes, etc. Also consists of red tongue in tomato sauce; or lobster coral in a Ve'loute' sauce; these latter two should be used when the meat or fish is red, so as to preserve the color. FERMIERE Composed of Parisienne fried po- tatoes, glazed balls of carrot, braised small' lettuces and hearts'of cabbages; appropriate to garnish braised or boiled beef, pot roasts, a la modes, etc. FIN ANCIERE Composed of button mushrooms, turned truffles, pieces of sweetbreads, cocks combs and kernels, small quenelles of force- meat, the whole moistened with Financiere sauce; appropriate to garnish fillets of beef, poultry, calf's head, sweetbreads, pigeons, sal- mis of plovers, braised turtle fins, black game, braised saddle of lamb, salmis of partridge and pheasant, fillets of rabbits, necks of veal, veal cutlets, roast loin of veal, etc. FLAM ANDE Composed of small pieces of bacon and sausages, plenty of braised white cabbage, turned boiled carrots and turnips, glazed onions; or the dish served with Brussels sprouts in half glaze, or with Flemish sauce. Appropriate garnish to boiled beef, boiled or roast ham, fillets of beef, large steaks, etc, GODARD Composed of turned and glazed truf- fles, diced sweetbreads, godiveau quenelles and button mushrooms (cocks combs and kernels, optional) moistened with Madeira sauce; ap- propriate garnish to braised sirloin of beef, larded capons, braised saddle of lamb, etc., also as a filling for timbales of macaroni which are subsequently served with Perigueux sauce. GOURMET Composed of neat-shaped pieces of ox palate, artichoke bottoms, turned truffles and button mushrooms, moistened with Ma- deira sauce; used for garnishing larded and braised fresh ox tongue. GREQUE Composed of trimmed and blanched okras which are then simmered in a little Ma- deira sauce for ten minutes; used to garnish veal cutlets saute's, with a little Bearnaise sauce at ends of dish, also as a garnish to stewed veal. HUSSARD Composed of small circles of cooked red tongue, slices of mushrooms and small go- diveau quenelles, the whole moistened with equal parts of Madeira sauce and tomato pure'e; used for garnishing braised white meat. JOURNEAUX Composed of slices of saut^ed chicken livers, moistened with rich Madeira sauce; appropriate garnish to roast or braised chicken, and as a filling for timbales, patties, omelets, etc. MACEDOINE Composed of fancy shapes of cooked carrot, turnip, stringless beans, with green peas, moistened with Allemande, Supreme or Bechamel sauces, when served with white meat entries; or mixed with Espagnole sauce for dark meat entries. Appropriate garnish to fillet of beef, boiled capon, braised ducks, glazed fillets of ducklings, braised saddle of lamb, breaded mutton cutlets, glazed ox tongue, fri- candeau of veal, roast fillet of veal, epigramme of lamb, fillets of capon, braised quails, larded sweetbreads, etc. MARINIERE Composed of blanched oysters, crayfish tails, turned truffles and small fish quenelles; used to garnish boiled fish. MATELOTE Composed of pieces of fish roe, very small onions saut^ed in butter then drained, pieces of truffle, blanched mussels or small oysters and small fish quenelles, the whole moistened with a Matelote sauce; appropriate garnish to crimped codfish, eels, boiled salmon steaks, fillets of soles, baked stuffed bluefish, boiled carp, baked codfish, fried fillets of pike, boiled red snapper, braised trout, etc, MILANAISE Composed of inch pieces of boiled macaroni and red tongue, slices of mushrooms, a little boiled rice, chopped truffle peelings and Parmesan cheese, the whole moistened with equal parts of Madeira sauce and tomato pure'e (some raviolis optional); appropriate garnish to braised fillet of beef, boiled capon, boiled chicken, braised saddle of lamb, breaded mutton cutlets, fillets of chicken, stuffed breast of lamb, braised breast of veal, etc. NAPOLITAINE Composed of inch pieces of boiled macaroni dressed with Parmesan cheese; sultana raisins stewed in wine, and glazed ravi- olis, arranged alternately around the entree with Napolitaine sauce poured under. Appro- propriate garnish to roast fillet of beef, suckling pig, braised capon, larded and glazed sweet- breads. N I VERNAISE Composed of Julienne vegetables saute'ed in clarified butter with a little sugar, then drained, moistened with consomme 1 , and when nearly done, rapidly boiled down to glaze; used in this way or mixed into a Hollandaise sauce. Appropriate garnish to breaded chicken cutlets, braised beef and mutton, braised ducks, haricot of mutton, mutton cutlets, etc. PAYSANNE Composed of slices of stuffed and braised cucumber, slices of braised carrot and small sausages, the whole then moistened with strained braise; appropriate garnish to black game, pheasant, haricot of mutton, haricot of ox tails, etc. PERIGUEUX Composed of scallops of fat bird livers and truffles braised in a mirepoix, to which is then added some quenelles of forcemeat, cocks combs and kernels with button mushrooms, the THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. whole then moistened with Peiigueux sauce, boiled up for a minute or two. Appropriate garnish to roast black game, large boudins of poultry, salmis of partridges, roast pheasant, roast stuffed turkey, roast stuffed suckling pig, broiled stuffed boneless pigs feet, braised quails on fried croustades, fried quarters of young rab- bit, veal chops sautes (these are first trimmed, seasoned, dipped in whipped egg whites, rolled in minced truffles, smoothed with a knife, sauteed slowly with butter a delicate brown about twenty minutes). PARISIAN Composed of equal quantities of turned truffles, button mushrooms and cocks ker- nels, moistened with Parisian sauce. Appropri- ate garnish to roast larded fillets of beef, fillets of chicken sautes, fillets of Cartridges breaded and sauteed, sauteed fillets of quails on toast, larded and braised sweetbreads. (For a club dish, the sweetbreads should be served three to the por- tion, one larded with strips of truffles, one with parsley stalks, the third with strips of red tongue, served on toast with the garnish around.) Fillets of soles stuffed and sauteed, (this is done by filleting the fish, spreading them with force- meat, arranged on a baking sheet, moistened with a little white wine, covered with buttered paper, slowly baked till the fish is set, then allowed to cool, spread with a cold Allemande sauce, breaded, then gently sauteed a fine color with butter; served with the garnish.) PROVENCALE Composed of small stuffed and baked tomatoes, small onions with the centers removed after being steamed, the whole then filled with forcemeat in which is worked a lit- tle cheese and a flavor of garlic, they are then sauteed; the entree when being served is sur- rounded alternately with the onions and toma- toes, also a sauce Provencale poured under the meat; appropriate garnish to braised fillet of beef, fried cutlets of chicken, braised ducks, leg of mutton boned, stuffed and braised, braised mutton cutlets, salmis of partridges, roast stuffed sucking pig, fried calf's brains in batter, salmis of all wild fowls. REGENCY composed of small fish quenelles, cocks combs, button mushrooms, crayfish tails, truffles, and a little lobster coral, the whole moistened with some Regency sauce; appropri- ate garnish to WHOLE boiled salmon, trout, pike, halibut, turbot and red snapper. ROUENNAISE Composed of turnips turned to an even small size, sauteed in butter with a lit- tle sugar till of a fine golden color, then mois- tened with some sauce Espagnole and simmered in it till tender; appropriate garnish to roast ducks, roast or braised pheasant, braised leg of mutton, capercailzie and black game. ROUENNAISE Is also the name of a useful fish garnish and is composed for this use with blanched oysters and shrimps with button mushrooms, each in equal quantities, also some lobster quenelles, the liquor from the blanched oysters and mushrooms reduced with a little white wine, then added to a Velout sauce, fin- ished with a liaison of egg yolks and cream, lemon juice and chopped parsley, then is added the ragout. RICHELIEU Composed of small poultry quen- elles which have some brown puree of onions in their composition, slices of braised poultry livers and cocks combs, the whole moistened with a brown onion puree sauce; appropriate garnish to entries of game and poultry that are breaded and subsequently fried or broiled, also boneless pigs feet breaded, braised carbonade of mutton, crepinettes of partridge, etc. ROY ALE Composed of a ragout of button mush- rooms, cocks combs and kernels, small quenelles of chicken and turned truffles, the ragout to be moistened with the glazy strained braise from the meat. Appropriate garnish to braised loin of veal, breast of veal stuffed and braised, braised saddle of lamb, braised capon, braised rabbit, larded and braised fillets of chicken. ROYALE- -Garnish when to be used for game, such as braised venison, hare, pheasant, part- ridge, etc., is composed of pieces of braised pork sausages, braised bacon, button mush- rooms and green gherkins, the whole moistened with a Poivrade sauce. ROYALE This name is often applied to fish, but when so applied it has no garnish, but is meant to convey the form and style of cooking, which is the fish either filleted and fried, or boned, stuffed and stewed, then served with a white Ravigote sauce, sometimes garnished with fish quenelles. ROYALE This name when applied to soups and consomme's, has a garnish or filling composed of fancy shapes or small timbales of custard; made with consomme and egg yolks, or court- bouillon and egg yolks, with some lobster roe, minced mushrooms, minced truffles, parsley, shallots, a green pure"e, etc., etc., mixed in ac- cording to fancy, the custard steamed slowly, the eggs simply mixed without much beating. SOUBISE Composed of small potato croquettes and a purde soubise; made by saute"eing with butter some blanched onions, seasoning with nutmeg, red pepper and a pinch of sugar; when of a light color, moistened with white sauce; when done, the whole is rubbed through a tamis in conjunction with a boiled floury potato which keeps the pure firm. Appropriate gar- nish to braised black game, boudins of chicken, braised leg of mutton, larded neck of mutton, braised mutton cutlets, braised partridges, larded and braised pheasants, larded and braised pork cutlets, scallops of sweetbreads sauced, breaded and fried. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. STANLEY Garniture often served with steaks, composed of quartered fried bananas, small timbales of horseradish mixed with rice, minced shallots, cream and egg yolks; served with sauce Albert over or around the steaks. SUPREME Composed of a pure'e of white chicken meat and rice that has been boiled in chicken stock, the pure'e being mixed wi;h a lit- tle rich cream; arranged on the serving dish as a border, decorated with fancy shapes of truffle, the meat in the centre being covered with a Supreme sauce, such as, breasts of chicken, sweetbreads, capon, quails and partridges. TOULOUSE Composed of slices of geese livers saute'ed and glazed, button mushrooms blanched with lemon juice and butter, scallops of sweet- breads, turned truffles, cocks combs and kernels masked with Toulouse or Supreme sauce. Ap- proptiate garnish to larded and saute'ed fillets of chicken, fricandeau of veal, sweetbreads, capon, larded and sauce'ed ribs of veal. TORTU Composed of olive shaped pieces of truffle and green gherkins, stoned small olives, button mushrooms, scallops of blanched brains or sweetbreads, the whole moistened with a rich Madeira sauce; used to garnish calf's head, larded and braised turtle, stewed turtle fins. GHERKINS A small prickly cucumberused for pickling; to pickle them they are first washed and wiped, then placed in jars and covered with a boiling brine strong enough to float a potato the size of an egg; allowed to steep for 24 hours, then taken out, wiped, placed in clean jars and covered with hot vinegar spiced with an onion, whole cloves, mustard seed, bay leaves and mace; ready for use in two weeks. GIBLETS Are composed of the heart, liver, gizzard and neck of poultry, and as each take a different time to cook, they should be cooked in groups of each and afterwards amalgamated; all require blanching to remove the blood. GIBLET SAUCE Blanched and sauteed hearts, livers and gizzards, cut very small, then mixed into a thickened gravy from the roasted birds to be served with. GIBLET PIE Geese giblets blanched, stewed in stock till tender with some sherry wine, carrot onion and parsley; when done, the vegetables removed, sauce made from the stock and seasoned with minced shallots, mush- rooms, chopped parsley, red pepper, salt and a little sweet basil; the giblets then arranged in the pie dish together with some small pieces of tender saute'ed beef, the sauce poured over all, covered with a short paste, egg washed and baked. STEWED GIBLETS WITH GREEN PEAS Poultry giblets prepared as in the preceding, but instead of mixing with beef and placing in pie dish, served as they are within a border of green peas. RAGOUT OF GIBLETS WITH POTATO CROQUETTES The giblets blanched, then sauteed with bacon, finished by stewing till tender in a brown sauce with balls of carrot and small onions, adding at the last some button mushrooms, season with sherry wine; served within a border of small potato croquettes. GIBLET SOUP The necks and second wing joints cut into inch pieces, the gizzards into thin slices, saute them, boil the livers with some minced onions, split the blanched hearts and saute them, mix all together and moisten with roast chicken gravy, let simmer till tender; meanwhile prepare a soup to the consistency of thin cream made from veal or chicken stock that has been flavored with celery, carrots, tur- nips and onions in equal proportions, bayleaf, thyme, basil, savory and mace; when ready, strain into the soup tureen, add the giblets in sauce, finish with sherry wine and serve. GIBLET SOUP WITH RICE The giblets pre- pared and sauced as in the preceding, the soup made of equal parts of Espagnole, tomato and Veloute" sauces, thin to consistency with veal or chicken broth, brought to the boil, skimmed, rice added and simmered till tender, then poured to the giblets, finish with Madeira wine. CLEAR GIBLET SOUP Blanched giblets cut into neat size, simmered in white broth till tender, added to a chicken consomme together with some Julienne vegetables. GLAZE Or reduced meat juice, used to glaze or varnish cold meat, such as, boned roast fowls, tongues, hams, game birds, boars head, etc., to enrich soups and sauces; made by rap- idly boiling down clarified stock, consomme or very clear broths; these should have had veal and beef bones, roast game and poultry car- casses boiled in them so as to give the glaze a rich flavor. GODIVEAU Name used for veal forcemeat, made from 2 Ibs. of lean veal, 2 Ibs. of beef suet, i Ib. of cooked veal udder, the whole pounded till it is creamy, seasoned with red pepper, salt, nutmeg, 8 eggs and half a pound of fresh white grated bread crumbs, when all smooth, it is rubbed through a tamis, and placed away for use. It is valuable in making forcemeat balls, as a lining for meat pies, etc., quenelles. GOOSE One of the domestic fowls much appre- ciated by hotel patrons if young. Stewards can tell this by the upper bill test, if the upper bill will bend or cave in the middle it is young, the firmer it is, the older the bird; it is not a very profitable bird to the proprietor unless purch- ased very low in price, because "when from a goose you've taken legs and breast, wipe lips, thank God, and give the poor the rest." 90 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. Spring or green geese about three months served with a brown sauce made in the sauce- old are never stuffed for roasting: the best pan it was cooked in, and garnished with col- flavored geese are six to nine months old, and umns of glazed turnips. best from September to Christmas. BRAISED GOOSE WITH VEGETABLES- BOILED GOOSE WITH PICKLED PORK Prepare, truss and braise the birds with bacon, The bird singed, drawn and washed, plunged herbs and vegetables; served with brown gravy, into boiling salted water with an onion, sim- and garnished with even sized pieces of car- mered till tender; served in portions with a slice rot and turnip glazed, intersected with Brussels of boiled ham or leg of salt pork, accompanied sprouts, with celery sauce. STUFFED GOOSE WITH GLAZED APPLES ROAST GOOSE STUFFED WITH GODI- The birds prepared and filled with mashed VEAU Young birds singed, washed, drawn, potatoes mixed with minced and saute'ed onions, filled with godiveau, trussed, roasted; served trussed, roasted; served with brown gravy, with giblet sauce, accompanied with a garnish garnished with small apples baked whole and of sauteed green peas at one end of dish, and glazy, a mound of mashed potatoes at the other. ROAST GREEN GOOSE, GOOSEBERRY BRAISED GOOSE WITH SAUSAGES The SAUCE The bird singed, drawn, washed, bird prepared, stuffed with pork sausage meat trussed, with the inside seasoned well with flavored with sage, braised with bacon and veg- salt, pepper and powdered sage, roasted and etables; served with a garnish of Parisienne basted; served with gooseberry sauce, potatoes, broiled sausages, and gravy made GOOSEBERRY SAUCE Green gooseberries from the strained and skimmed braise. with a little sugar and just enough water to ROAST GOOSE, APPLE SAUCE The bird kee P them from burning, in a saucepan, lid prepared and stuffed with a mixture of dry P^ced on, simmered till done, then rubbed bread crumbs moistened with chopped green through a sieve like cranberries; when passed apples, minced onion boiled with a little water through a little butter is added, and butter; seasoned with sage, salt and pepper, GORGONZOLA Name of a prime cheese made trussed, roasted; served with dressing under in the North of Italy, somewhat resembling the the meat, apple sauce served separately. English stilton; it is of yellow color with rich ROAST GOOSE STUFFED WITH CHEST- green veins, firm and creamy. NUTS The birds prepared and stuffed with a GRAHAM FLOUR Name given to unbolted mixture made of two-thirds chestnut pure"e flour by Sylvester Graham, who claims for it mixed with one-third godiveau, trussed, roasted; more nutritive properties, but it has, however, served in portions: garnished with roasted and been proven to be less easy of digestion; it is peeled chestnuts, brown gravy made in the made into bread, pancakes, waffles, muffins, roasting pan poured under the meat. mush and crackers. ROAST GOOSE WITH OYSTER STUFFING GRAPES, FROSTED Bunches of grapes dipped The birds prepared and filled with a stuffing into whites of eggs whipped into a froth, then made of a quart each of oysters, bread crumbs, into powdered sugar, surplus sugar then shaken and rolled oyster crackers, one-half a pound of off, hung till set and dry, then served, soft butter, four eggs, salt and pepper, roasted; GRAPE JAM Pulp the grapes, keeping the pulp served with a brown oyster or brown celery and sking separate) pour the pulp into a porce . lain lined kettle and bring it to boiling point, GOOSE WITH KRAUT, GERMAN STYLE then press through a colander, add the skins The goose prepared and trussed, arranged in a and measure; to every quart allow a pound of deep sautoir with well washed and drained sugar, mix, boil rapidly for 20 minutes, stirring sauerkraut, bacon and small bologna sausage, occasionally, pour into tumblers or jars, seal, an onion stuck with cloves, moistened with a If green grapes allow one-half pound more little broth and some fat from the top of stock, sugar to the quart. fetched to the boil, then simmered till done; G RAPE JELLY-Use freshly gathered ripe Con- served in portions with a garnish of kraut, bacon cordi clinton or lsabella grapeSi put them into and sausage. stone crockSi place the crocks in the bain-marie STUFFED GOOSE WITH GLAZED TUR- of cold water, cover the tops and heat slowly NIPS The bird prepared and stuffed with till grapes are soft; now put a small quantity at grated bread seasoned with sage and thyme a time into a jelly bag and squeeze out the juice; leaves, parboiled minced onions, salt and pep- measure the juice and to each quart allow 2 per, placed in a sautoir with an onion stuck Ibs. of granulated sugar. Turn the juice into a with cloves, celery, parsley, little sherry wine porcelain lined kettle over a brisk fire, place and butter, lid placed on, then put into a hot the sugar in the oven to heat, boil the juice oven, baked and basted till done and glazy; rapidly for 20 minutes; then quickly add the THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. sugar, stirring till it is dissolved; dip the glasses into hot water, watch the liquid, and as soon as it comes to the boil, remove from the fire and fill the glasses. GREEN GRAPE JELLY Fox grapes are the best; put the stemmed grapes into a porcelain lined kettle, barely cover them with cold water, cover the kettle, and boil slowly till the grapes are very tender, then drain them through a flannel jelly bag; to every quart of the juice al- low 2 Ibs. of granulated sugar, put the juice in- to porcelain lined kettle, bring to the boil, then add the sugar, and boil rapidly till it jellies, about 20 minutes, skimming off the scum as it rises; as soon as it jellies, dip the glasses into boiling water and fill with the boiling liquid, stand aside till cold and firm, then seal the tops. GRAPE FRUIT Also called "shaddock" and "forbidden fruit" and the largest ones "pompol- eons", a fruit of the orange species, plentifully grown in the West Indies and Florida, are of an agreeable acii grape flavor; served cut in halves across, with the sections loosened and the seeds removed; eaten with powdered sugar, a little sherry wine being a valuable addition. GRAYLING A prime game fish of fine flavor weighing from i to 5 Ibs, ; cooked and served in all the ways applicable to brook trout. GREENGAGE Called by the French "Reine Claude" a species of plum that when ripe re- mains green; used as a table fruit, in compotes, pies, jellies, ices, and as a sweet entree with rice. GRENADINS Name applied to the fricandeau of veal cut in half inch thick slices, then stamped circular with a biscuit cutter, these larded with seasoned strips of ham or bacon, arranged in a sautoir, moistened with a light colored strong consomme, reduced to a half glaze and the larding is cooked; served overlap- ping each other with a garnish of green peas or glazed root vegetables in forms, or with gumbo and egg plant, or a chipolata garnish, or with small stuffed tomatoes and tomato sauce, or with a Financiere garnish. GRIDDLE CAKES For recipes, see heading of "batter." G R O U S E Under this heading comes the "spruce", "ruffled", pintail", moor fowl", "cap- ercailzie", prairie chicken", "ptarmigan", etc. STUFFED GROUSE, MUSHROOM SAUCE The bird singed, drawn and washed, filled with a stuffing made from the liver, minced onions and mushrooms, breadcrumbs, butter, salt and pepper, strips of bacon tied over the breast, roasted; served with mushroom sauce flavored with sherry wine. GLAZED GROUSE, SAUCE TRIANON The birds trussed and roasted plain, taken up, quartered, skin removed, dipped into a game glaze; served on a fancy croflton with sauce Trianon poured around. ROAST GROUSE, SCOTCH STYLE The birds trussed and roasted plain, taken up, cut in quarters, served on toast with Bigarade sauce poured over, and garnished with slices of oranges. SALMIS OF GROUSE The birds trussed and roasted plain, taken up and cat into quarters, placed in a sautoir, moistened with game sauce, fetched to the simmer, flavored with sherry wine; served with sauce over, garnished with fancy croutons, the top of the bird sprinkled with grated orange r nd and minced truffles. ROAST GROUSE, HUNTERS STYLE The bird trussed and roasted plain, taken up and cut into quarters; served on toast with sauce poured over, made of 2 parts of Espagnole and i part tomato sauces, seasoned with minced fried shallots, lemon juice, minced mushrooms and chopped parsley. STEWED GROUSE WITH GREEN PEAS Stuff and truss young birds, roll them in butter, quickly brown them in a very hot oven, take out and place in a deep sautoir, moisten with game sauce, put on the sautoir lid, lei stew slowly till tender, take up and cut into portions, keeping them hot in a little sauce, the sauce they were stewed in then strained and skimmed, seasoned with sherry wine; served poured over the bird, garnished with green peas sautee. BRAISED GROUSE WITH GLAZED CAR- ROTS Truss the birds, arrange in a braziere with slices of bacon, celery, onion stuck with cloves, bay leaves, slices of carrot and turnip, a bunch of sweet herbs and parsley, moisten with game gravy, slices of bacon placed on the birds and on the bacon a sheet of buttered paper, lid then put on, the birds braised till done and glazy, taken up, cut into portions, the braise strained and skimmed, then mixed with a rich brown sauce flavored with port wine; served with the sauce poured over and gar- nished with balls of sauteed and glazed carrots. ROAST GROUSE, BREAD SAUCE The breasts of the bird larded with seasoned strips of fat pork, trussed, seasoned with salt and pepper; rolled in melted butter, then in flour, roasted and basted till done; served with bread sauce at sides. STUFFED FILLETS OF GROUSE WITH QUENELLES Young birds trussed and roasted plain, taken up and filleted, the fillets spread with game forcemeat, arranged on a baking sheet, moistened and heated with game sauce; when to be served, dipped in a game glaze; served on a fancy crouton with game sauce and garnished with small game quenelles. BROILED GROUSE WITH BACON Young birds singed, split down the back, the back and THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. breastbone removed, thigh bone snapped, laid for half an hour in olive oil, seasoned with salt and pepper, broiled till done; served on toast with strips of broiled bacon, Maitre d'Hdtel butter, garnished with Julienne pota- toes. GROUSE CUTLETS BRE ADCRUMBED Young birds singed, trussed and roasted, taken up and jointed, skin removed, dipped into a thick cooling rich game sauce, then in sifted breadcrumbs, (not cracker dust) then breaded, and arranged on a baking sheet, sprinkled with melted butter, placed in oven, basted and browned; served garnished with Duchesse potatoes. GRUYERE OR SWISS Name of an imported cheese used both in cooking and for the table; is large, round, thick and flat in shape, has a peculiar nutty flavor and when cut is found to be full of small holes. G ROUPER- Name of one of our Southern fishes, found in three varieties, black, red and white; the shape is a cross between a carp and a bass, weighs from 5 to 10 Ibs.; the flesh is firm but coarse; a second class fish. BOILED GROUPER, CAPER SAUCE The fish prepared and boiled in salted water with a little vinegar (time to simmer about 40 min- utes), taken up and drained; served with caper sauce and garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. BOILED GROUPER, MATELOTE GARNISH The fish prepared and scored, boiled whole in court-bouillon with a bunch of sweet herbs whsn done, drained; served in slices with a lit- tle lobster coral strewn over, garnished with a Matelote (see garnishes). GROUPER STUFFED AND BAKED, TOMA- TO SAUCE The fish scaled and washed, back bone and entrails removed, stuffed, put back in shape and tied with twine, baked whole with slices of salt pork; served in portions with a strip of the pork and tomato sauce poured around. BAKED GROUPER, GULF STYLE The fish scaled, head removed, split down the back and the backbone removed, laid out on greased pan, seasoned with mixed peppers and salt, placed in oven till heated through and set, then taken out, moistened with melted butter, returned to oven, baked with frequent basting till done and brown; served in portions with tomato puree around, and garnished with lemons. GROUPER SAUTE, LOBSTER SAUCE The fish prepared, cut in steaks, laid in seasoned olive oil, sau teed with it; when done and brown, served with lobster coral strewn over the por- tion and lobster sauce around. BAKED RED GROUPER, SPANISH SAUCE The fish cleaned and scored, arranged in bak- ing pan, moistened with white stock and some fat from the stock pot, seasoned with salt, veg- etables and a dash of vinegar, place in medium oven; when about a third done, remove the up- per skin, then baste frequently till done and brown, (about one hour is required for a 7 Ib. fish); served in portions with Spanish sauce poured around. GUAVA Name of a Southern and West Indian fruit that is chiefly used in making preserves and jellies. Guava jelly is one of the best to serve with delicate flavored game. GUINEA HEN A domestic fowl smaller than the ordinary chicken, with darker flesh, often takes the place of partridge; is best to serve in the spring of the year when game is a bit scarce. ROAST LARDED GUINEA HEN The bird singed and drawn, the legs and breast larded with seasoned strips of fat pork, rolled in but- tered paper, baked till done and brown; served with a brown poultry gravy, garnished with watercress. BROILED GUINEA HEN, WITH BACON Young birds singed, split down the back, the breast and backbones removed, thigh bone snapped, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, then in melted butter, broiled; served on toast with strips of bacon, Maitre D'Hotel butter, and garnished with Julienne potatoes and watercress. ROAST GUINEA HEN, SAUCE BEARNAISE- The birds singed and cleaned, trussed, slices of fat larding pork tied over the breast, roasted; when about done, the pork removed, then quickly browned; served in portions, garnished at ends of dish with fancy croutons, and Bear- naise sauce at the sides. BRAISED STUFFED GUINEA HEN The birds singed and drawn, filled with a quenelle forcemeat, the breasts larded, arranged in a braizer with vegetables and spices, moistened with stock and white wine, covered with strips of bacon, braised and basted till done taken up, the braise strained and skimmed, then rapidly reduced to demi glaze, which is then added to a Financiere garnish, the bird served whole or in portions with the garnish around. GUMBO Another name for the vegetable okra; for recipes see "OKRA". HADDOCK A fish of the cod species but smaller; when dried and smoked is known as smoked haddock or Finnan Haddie, from the village of Finnan near Aberdeen, Scotland, which is as famous for its curing haddocks as Yarmouth is for its bloaters. BAKED STUFFED HADDOCK-The fish scaled and cleaned, backbone removed, filled with an oyster stuffing, baked and basted till done; served in portions with a brown oyster sauce. BOILED HADDOCK, OYSTER SAUCE The fish prepared and cut in portions, boiled till THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 93 done in salted water with a dash of vinegar; with milk and butter; served with a sauce made served with white oyster sauce and garnished of mustard, butter and lemon juice mixed to- with Hollandaise potatoes. (With boiled had- gether so that it is soft enough to melt when dock, egg, cream, Bechamel, parsley, shrimp, laid on the hot fish. lobster, crab and Hollandaise sauces are also HAGGIS Name of a Scotch national dish pre- pared by cutting into small pieces the heart, liver, milt and skirt, together with the lungs of a freshly killed sheep; after first blanching and boiling till tender each separate part, to each set of haslets as above is mixed one pound of finely chopped beef suet, one half pint each of minced onion and oatmeal, seasoned with salt, red and black pepper, nutmeg and lemon juice, the whole thoroughly mixed and moistened with a little beef gravy, the mixture is then filled in- to a well cleansed sheep paunch, sewn up, pricked with a fork to allow air escape, plunged into boiling salted water, and kept simmering till done, about two and a half hours; served without any garnish. BUTTER Prepared and cut in fillets, rolled HALIBUT A large flat fish of the flounder in flour, broiled and basted with butter; served species, the young and medium sized ones be- spread with anchovy butter, garnished with ing the best, and known as "Chicken halibut". Saratoga chips, watercress and lemon slices. BOILED HALIBUT STEAK, CREAM SAUCE CREAMED HADDOCK WITH OYSTERS The fish scaled and trimmed, cut into steaks, cold boiled haddock in flakes without skin, simmered in boiling salted water containing a heated in Hollandaise sauce with an equal quan- dash of vinegar; served sprinkled with parsley tity of blanched and drained oysters; served dust, cream sauce at the sides, piled high on toast, sprinkled with parsley dust. BROILED HALIBUT STEAK The steaks sea- BAKED FINNAN HADDIE, BUTTER SAUCE soned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, then The fish trimmed and skinned, arranged in in olive oil broiled; served with maitre d'hotel a baking pan with a little water, placed in oven butter, garnished with watercress and lemon, till set, water then poured off, seasoned with sometimes with a strip of broiled bacon, pepper, moistened with butter sauce, baked; BOILED HALIBUT The fish scaled and trim- served with the sauce, garnished with parsley med, cut into portions, boiled in salted water and croutons. with a dash of vinegar; served with either lob- FINNAN HADDIE SAUTE, PARSLEY SAUCE ster ' clam - cream or Hollandaise sauces. The fish skinned and trimmed, laid in warm BAKED HALIBUT, EGG SAUCE The fish water for a few minutes, then saute'ed with but- ter; served on toast with parsley butter sauce poured over, garnish with watercress. FINNAN HADDIE BOILED, CREAM SAUCE The fish skinned and trimmed, laid in warm appropriate). FILLETS OF HADDOCK, SAUTE The fish cleaned, boned, cut in fillets, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, saute'ed in but- ter, taken up, gravy made in the pan, strained, the fish served sprinkled with parsley dust, gravy at the sides, garnished with Parisienne potatoes. FILLETS OF HADDOCK, BREAD CRUMB- ED, DUTCH SAUCE Prepared and cut into fillets as in the preceding, seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped in beaten egg, then in sifted breadcrumbs, fried; served with Dutch sauce at the sides, garnished with cress and lemon. BROILED FRESH HADDOCK, ANCHOVY scaled and trimmed, cut into portions, arranged in baking pan, seasoned with salt and pepper, moistened with milk and butter, baked and basted till done; served with egg sauce, garn- ished with slices of hard boiled eggs. water for an hour, washed, then put to boil in FRIED HALIBUT STEAK, WITH BACON Slices of bacon blanched, then fried, the steaks seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, then dipped into beaten eggs, fried a golden brown in the bacon fat; served with strips of bacon. cold water; served with cream sauce poured over, garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. FINNAN HADDIE BAKED WITH TOMA- TOES The fish skinned and trimmed, laid in warm water for an hour, washed blanched cut in portions, arranged in baking pan with HALIBUT STEAK SAUTE, TOMATO SAUCE sliced peeled tomatoes, minced fried shallots - The steaks seasoned with salt and neoner. and chopped parsley, baked; served on toast with the tomatoes around. FINNAN HADDIE BROILED, LOBSTER BUTTER The fish skinned, trimmed, blanch- ed, dried, seasoned with pepper, rolled in olive oil, broiled, served on toast, spread with lob- ster butter, garnished with watercress. FINNAN HADDIE BAKED, ABERDEEN STYLE The fish skinned and trimmed, baked The steaks seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, slowly saute'ed a golden color with butter; served with a sauce composed of equal parts of tomato pure"e and tomato catsup. CREAMED HALIBUT WITH MUSHROOMS Flakes of cold boiled halibut mixed with slices of saute'ed button mushrooms, moistened with Bechamel sauce, filled into deep oval or scallop dishes, sprinkled with breadcrumbs and melted butter, baked a delicate brown and served. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. HAM A leg of pork salted and smoked. Hams to be boiled, steamed or baked, should be soaked overnight in cold water, thoroughly scrubbed in the morning, and when cooking should be allowed 20 minutes time for each pound in weight. If to be kept for serving when cold, they should be allowed to cool in the water they were boiled in, as that keeps them moist down to the last cutting, even for a week or more. STEWED HAM WITH SPINACH The ham prepared and steamed as directed above, taken up, skinned; served in slices on a bed of spin- ach with brown sauce at sides. BOILED HAM WITH LIMA BEANS Soaked overnight, scrubbed, boiled for 20 minutes to the pound; served in slices with a garnish of fresh lima beans in brown sauce. ROAST HAM, CHAMPAGNE SAUCE The ham prepared, then steamed two-thirds of its cooking time, taken up and skinned, placed in baking pan in medium oven, baked and basted till done; but five minutes before taking up, sprinkle with sugar to nicely glaze it; serve with champagne sauce at sides. ROAST STUFFED HAM The ham prepared, then boned, the bone holes filled with pork forcemeat, drawn together and tied with string then sewn in a cloth, steamed two-thirds of its cooking time, then finished in medium oven after removing cloth and skin; served with cel- ery sauce or sauce flavored with celery salt. BRAISED HAM WITH VEGETABLES Pre- pared, boned and stuffed as in the preceding, tied in a cloth and boiled till within half an hour of its cooking time, then taken up, cloth and skin removed, placed in a brazier with a pint of Madeira wine, rapidly braised and basted till done and the wine reduced, taken up, Espag- nole sauce added to the braise with a little cur- rent jelly, boiled up, strained and skimmed; the ham served in slices with the sauce over or under, garnished with glazed root vegetables. CROQUETTES OF HAM WITH GREEN PEAS Cold cooked ham finely cat two- thirds, mixed with one-third of fresh mashed potatoes and a few egg yolks, seasoned with nutmeg and pepper, rolled into the desired shape, breaded, fried; served surrounded with green peas in Ve"loute" sauce. MINCED HAM WITH EGG Cold ham trim- mings minced, mixed with a seasoning of minced and fried shallots, parsley, cayenne and a little horseradish mustard, moistened with a little sauce or gravy, thoroughly heated; served heaped high on buttered toast, with a poached egg on top, or garnished with slices of hot hard boiled eggs. Creamed young carrots, Parisienne vegetables, Jardiniere, and aspara- gus tips also make a desirable garnish for this dish. HAMBURGER Or Hamburg steaks are minced beef with a little onion, a suspicion of garlic, salt and pepper seasoning, fried or broiled, and served either plain or with any of the sauces appropriate to steaks. TOMATOED HAMBURGER The same as above but freely mixed with raw tomato meat freed from skin and seeds; should be served with tomato sauce. HARE Practically the dark fleshed rabbit which attains a larger size than the common or white fleshed one, and which is also of superior fla- vor. We commonly call it the "Jack rabbit". The steward should watch to buy young ones only; an old or soft limp one is beyond the chef's ingenuity to prepare for table service and give the patronage satisfaction; the young ones are EASILY told by tearing the ears with the thumb and finger, IF THEY DO NOT TEAR EASILY, LEAVE THEM ALONE. STUFFED SADDLE OF HARE WITH JELLY The saddle from the shoulders to the legs, cut in halves across making two portions, boned, stuffed with game or other forcemeat, tied round with twine, arranged in baking pan, each piece covered with a slice of fat pork, roasted and basted till done, taken up, little brown sauce added to the pan, boiled up, strained and skimmed, then poured to the hare; served with red currant jelly and garnished with fancy crofltons. FILLETS OF HARE, POIVRADE SAUCE The legs and saddles marinaded for two hours in a little white wine with slices of carrot and onion, salt, pepper and nutmeg, the whole then placed in a sautoir with a little fat pork, lid put on, placed in hot oven, roasted and basted till done, about 45 minutes, taken up, poivrade sauce added to the residue, boiled up, strained and skimmed; served with the fillets, garnished with croutons. BRAISED HARE WITH GAME CRO- QUETTES- -The legs and saddles prepared as in the preceding, the fore quarters of the hare used to make the croquettes; served, the fillets on a fancy bed of mashed potatoes, the sauce around, garnished with the croquettes. CIVET OF HARE, HUNTER'S STYLE The shoulders are the best for this dish, slices of bacon blanched, then cut into even sized small pieces and fried, the hare rolled in flour and fried lightly in the bacon fat, both then put into a sautoir; to the remaining fat flour is added to form a roux, moistened with stock and red wine, boiled up, skimmed, then strained over the meat, to which is added a bunch of sweet herbs, parsley, onions, salt, pepper and a few whole cloves, simmered till done, bare and bacon then taken up into the serving pan, the sauce further thickened with the liver made in- to a paste, and the blood, (it must not be boiled THE CULINARY HANDBOOK 95 after the blood is in) then strained over the meat; served, garnished with fried button mushrooms and small onions that have been blanched, then fried. FILLETS OF HARE, SAUTES The legs and saddles trimmed, then fried with butter, or bacon fat, taken up into a sautoir, moistened with Bourgignotte sauce, simmered till tender; served garnished with croutons and slices of truffles on the hare. FRIED FILLETS OF HARE The legs and saddles trimmed, then fried with butter, taken up into a sautoir, moistened with game gravy, simmered a little while; served garnished with small poached quenelles made from the fore- quarters. LARDED SADDLES OF HARE The saddles boned and trimmed, tied into shape with twine, larded with seasoned strips of pork, rolled in buttered paper, roasted till done, taken up, paper removed, rolled in game glaze; served on fancy shaped toast with Poivrade sauce poured around. JUGGED HARE The hare cut into fillets and boned, the bones and head pounded, then boiled with vegetables in stock and red wine, the fillets lightly fried in bacon fat; stone crock lined with bacon, the fillets put in, the bone liquor thickened, strained over the meat, baked slowly till tender (about three hours); when done, grease skimmed off; served. It may also be made in individual dishes and served in the one it was baked in. FILLETS OF HARE, TOMATO SAUCE The legs and saddles larded and braised; when done, the braise strained and skimmed, added to a rich tomato sauce; served with the meat, garnished with croutons. CUTLETS OF HARE, PIQUANTE SAUCE The legs fried in butter, then simmered in game gravy till tender, taken up and cooled, then breaded and fried, Piquante sauce made from the gravy they were simmered in; served with the cutlets, garnished with slices of stoned olives. SCALLOPS OF HARE WITH FINE HERBS Fillets of hare cut into scallops, flattened, trimmed, sauteed in clear butter, taken up into a fines-herbes sauce to which is added button mushrooms, simmered till done; served piled high in centre of dish, garnished with small cone shaped croquettes made from the inferior parts. SCALLOPS OF HARE WITH TONGUE, SAUCE PERIGUEUX Prepared and sauteed as in the preceding recipe, taken up intoape'ri- gueux sauce; served piled high in centre of dish with circles of tongue overlapping each other around the base, garnished with small croquettes as in the preceding. HERRING The Lake Superior herring is the best for filleting, as its fillets are boneless; the fresh water herring of the lower lakes is not so! The blue backs or sea herrings are packed into barrels and shipped all over the States when in season, which is a very short one. BOILED FRESH HERRING, SHRIMP SAUCE Prepare by cutting off the head and fins, then scale, draw, wash and score the sides, put into boiling salted water and simmer for 15 minutes, take up, drain; serve with shrimp sauce. BROILED FRESH HERRING, MUSTARD SAUCE Prepared herrings marinaded for an hour in olive oil seasoned with salt and pepper, taken up, broiled; serve with a good anchovy sauce finished with mustard and lemon juice. FRIED FRESH HERRINGS, MUSTARD BUTTER Prepared herrings seasoned, rolled in flour, fried in clarified butter, served spread with melted butter mixed with mustard, garn- ished with parsley and lemon. BOILED FRESH HERRINGS, CREAM SAUCE Prepared herrings boiled in salted water slowly for 15 minutes, taken up, drained; served with cream sauce poured over. BAKED FRESH HERRINGS, FENNEL SAUCE Prepared herrings arranged in baking pan with a few bay leaves, moisten slightly with equal parts of fish broth and vinegar, baked and basted till done, taken up; served with a spoonful of the liquor over them, fennel sauce at the sides. BAKED STUFFED HERRING Prepared her- rings filleted and boned; spread with fish force- meat, the two sides then again put together as if the fish was sandwiched with farce, arranged in buttered baking pan, baked and basted; served with a Maitre d'Hotel sauce. CURRIED FRESH HERRINGS, WITH EGGS Boneless sides of herrings sauteed in clarified butter, taken up into a curry sauce made from fish broth, simmered a few minutes, taken up, coated with sauce; served on a long strip of toast, garnished with slices of hot hard boiled eggs. (Good dish for Fridays). BONED FRESH HERRING ON TOAST Split, boned, sprinkled with pepper, salt, thyme, rolled from tail to head, tied with twine or tape, baked in court-bouillon with a dash of tarragon vinegar; served on circles of toast with lemon parsley sauce. SOUSED HERRINGS Scale and draw the fish, cut off the heads, wash and drain, arrange in porcelain lined baking pans, seasoned with salt and pepper, ground allspice, a few bay leaves and shallots, moisten to two-thirds of their height with white wine vinegar, cover with another pan, place in oven and bake very slowly for an hour; served cold, wiped dry, garnished with watercress. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. HICKORY Name of one or. the common nuts, also called Pecans; used in cake making, decor- ating, flavoring, etc. HOE CAKES-Name of a Southern pancake made of ground maize, salt and water. HOT POT OR HOTCH POTCH A soup stew made and baked in a pot as follows: take a large eartbern crock, into it put four Ibs. of lean beef trimmings cut into inch pieces, one Ib. of small balls of pork sausage meat, one- half a cupful of sliced onions, one cupful each of sliced and peeled cucumbers, carrots and asparagus points, one pint each of green peas and skinned tomatoes, a handful of washed rice, one cupful of chopped green peppers and a small heart of cabbage shredded, season with salt and pepper (NO SPICES), add four gal- lons of cold water, place on the crock cover, put in a moderate oven at 6 a. m. and it will be ready for 12 o'clock dinner. Another hot pot is made with scrags of mutton instead of the beef and pork, substituting leeks and barley for the peppers and rice. HOMINY Is hulled maize, marketed in differ- ent grades as to size; the large is generally known as "hulled corn" is boiled like rice and served with milk; or boiled very soft, turned out into a buttered pan, when cold, cut into strips rolled in flour (never bread it), fried a delicate brown .and served either as a garnish, or for breakfast with maple syrup. When boiling hominy which is to be fried, always add towards the finish, some flour, as that will hold it together and stop it from breaking and spit- ting when being fried. BOILED HOMINY A breakfast cereal: fine hominy soaked overnight, boiled for two hours in a farina kettle; served with cream and sugar. HOMINY CROQUETTES The preceding when boiled mixed with a little grated cheese and flour, beaten egg yolks, salt and red pepper, poured into buttered pan, when cold, made in- to form, breaded and fried. HORSERADISH Name of a pungent root, grated fine and used as a table condiment, and in flavoring sauces; as a condiment is best as follows: One pint of grated horseradish, one- half a pint of white wine vinegar, salt, little sugar, mix and use. HORSERADISH BUTTER Equal parts of grated horseradish and butter well pounded to- gether with a seasoning of salt and lemon juice, then rubbed through a fine sieve; served spread over broiled steaks. ICES These include sherbets, cream ices, water ices, etc., in infinite varieties. CUP ICES Small fluted cups or glasses filled with fruit syrups and placed in a large tub or tray, with pounded ice and salt around them; when frozen a sufficient thickness, the remain- ing liquor poured out, the cups then replaced so as to solidify the part where the liquid re- mained, the cups then turned out, filled with any form of ice different in color to the cup. ORANGE ICES Oranges with a slice cut to form a lid, the interior and pith scooped out, the skins then soaked in water for an hour, then dried and filled with orange water ice mixed with French fruits glaces that have been soaked in a liqueur; they are then frozen and served. IMPERIAL ICES Ice cups made as above, then filled with strawberry water ice flavored with champagne Pineapple Water Ice flavored with Santa Cruz rum Cherry Water Ice fla- ored with Noyeaux, etc. FANCY WATER ICES Freeze solidly all forms of water ices in equal quantities, such as Nut Cream Ice, Madeira Ice, Claret Ice, Pistachio Cream, Raspberry and Strawberry Water Ices, Curacoa Cream Ice, Orange and Lemon Ices, Cherry Water Ice, Caramel Cream Ice, etc., then fill individual forms in shapes of fruit and flowers, close the molds, pack, freeze, turn out and serve. The same to be done with all kinds of ice creams such as Vanilla, Cherry, Chocolate, Tea, Coffee, Currant, Grape, Chestnut, Almond, Pistachio, Noyeaux, filled into individual forms of fruit and flowers, vegetables, etc , the idea being to have varigated colors, flavors and shapes. ICED SNOWBALLS Rice boiled very tender, in water, sweetened, flavored with orange or lemon juice, frozen in the shape of balls, then taken out, rolled in whipped cream, served if possible in a shallow green glass dish, the top of the ball sparingly spotted with green pista- chio gratings. NEAPOLITAN BRICKS Brick molds filled in three colors of ice cream or one of them may be water ice, so as when cut to show three dis- tinct layers, frozen solid, turned out, cut in slices. ICED FROTHS Fancy shaped glasses filled with whipped cream piled high, sweetened, frozen; served in the same glasses. IRISH MOSS An edible seaweed, gelatinous, reddish brown in color, good for those with delicate digestions in blanc-mange, creams, flawns, farinas, etc. IRISH STEW The neck chops of mutton that are under the shoulder, trimmed, gristle re- moved, boiled with the shanks from the legs and shoulders and other mutton trimmings till half done, taken up and stewed with potatoes and onions till tender in the strained and skimmed stock from the boiling, seasoned with salt and pepper, lightly thickened; served sprink- led with chopped parsley. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 97 ISINGLASS A form of gelatine prepared from the swim bladder of the sturgeon; more expen- sive than gelatine without any appreciable bet- ter results. JARDINIERE Name applied to a garnish of small cut mixed vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, asparagus tips, cauliflower, stringless beans and some green peas, cooked in seasoned broth, drained; served plain or tossed with half glaze or meat gravy. JELLY A clarified, gelatinous combination of sugar, water, spices and colorings, flavored with wine, fruit juices, etc.; also made from calf's feet (see calf). To make the stock jelly use 2 qts. of water or fruit juices, 3 ozs. of dissolved gelatine, the grated rind and juice of 4 lemons, i Ib. of granulated sugar, the broken whites and shells of 6 eggs, mix well, bring to the simmer; after it coagulates, allow the scum to assume a grey color, so as to perfectly clar- ify, then strain through a flannel bag three times and use for the following: FRUIT JELLY Stock jelly flavored with sherry wine, fancy molds filled an inch deep, allowed to set, then fruit arranged as a border; if cur- rants or grapes arranged in bunches; molds then gradually filled with limpid jelly and set. WEST INDIAN JELLY Stock jelly strongly flavored with Jamaica rum, fancy molds filled an inch deep and allowed to set, slices of bananas and sections of seeded oranges then arranged as a border, jellied and set, the mold then filled with limpid jelly, set, turned out and served. RIBBON JELLY Stock jelly in three parts, one colored with strawberry juice, one with cara- mel and flavored with brandy, the third whipped to a froth on ice, and flavored with benedictine, arranged in molds with six layers, each to be set before the other is put in, com- mence with the red, then the whipped, and lastly the caramel. These three colors and flavors look well in three triangles as follows: hold the mold so that you form a triangle shape of red jelly, set that, then reverse the side and form a triangle with the caramel, that leaves a wedge shape from the tip to the base, then fill up with the whipped jelly. PINEAPPLE JELLY Stock jelly flavored with noyeaux, the mold filled with ii and pieces of pineapple. STRAWBERRY JELLY Stock jelly flavored with strawberry juice, the mold filled with it and whole strawberries. RASPBERRY JELLY Stock jelly flavored with red raspberry juice, the mold filled with it and whole raspberries. BLACKBERRY JELLY For this use a border mold, and when turned out, fill the centre with whipped cream. APRICOT JELLY Stock jelly flavored with maraschino, the mold filled with it and halves of peeled apricots. MACEDOINE JELLY Stock jelly flavored with maraschino, the mold filled with it and small whole fruits. RUSSIAN JELLY Stock jelly flavored with liqueur, then whipped to a fioth on ice, filled into molds and set. PISTACHIO JELLY Stock jelly flavored with Dantzic brandy, mold filled half an inch deep, shredded pistachios then strewn in, the mold then filled in with layers of jelly strewn with pistachios. ORANGE JELLY When making the stock jelly add the grated rinds of oranges and a little cochineal to give it the orange tint; when done and strained, fill into molds. LEMON JELLY Made the same as orange jelly except use grated lemon rinds, and omit the cochineal. JULIENNE Name applied to a garnish of shredded root vegetables, also to shredded potatoes. JUNIPER Name of a blue berry used for flav- oring gin; also adds a nice flavor to corned meat when a muslin bagful of crushed berriei is added to the brine. KALE A vegetable in appearance like endive, and in taste like green cabbage, cooked tho same as spinach. KHULASH OR GOULASH Name of a ragout much esteemed by the Hungarians; made by taking pieces of beef and sau toeing them with onions in butter, seasoning with salt and pap- rika, moistened with brown sauce, simmered till tender; served garnished with Hollandaise or Parisienne potatoes. KIDNEYS Recipes will be found under the name of the animal to which it belongs. KINGFISH Name of a Southern fish, exquisite in flavor, and of a nice size for restaurant and club service. BOILED KINGFISH, SAUCE NORMANDE The fish prepared, boiled in salted water with a dash of vinegar, when done, drained; served with Normande sauce, garnished with Hollan- daise potatoes. KINGFISH WITH FINE HERBS Prepared and trimmed, arranged in buttered baking pan, baked and basted with butter; served with fines- herbes sauce, garnished with Julienne potatoes. BROILED KINGFISH, LEMON BUTTER Prepared and trimmed, split down the front, laid open and the backbone removed, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, brusned with butter, broiled and basted till done; served spread with MSitre D'Hotel butter, garnisfisd with chip potatoes, lemon and parsley. g8 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK KINGFISH SAUTE, SAUCE COLBERT SAUTE OF LAMB The shoulder boned and cut into neat pieces, saute'ed with minced onions and a flavoring of garlic in butter, raw skinned tomatoes cut in halves, and lightly fried with butter, taken up and added to the lamb, the whole then cooked for 20 minutes; served garnished with fancy croutons. Boneless sides of the fish seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, saute'ed with butter a delicate brown; served with Colbert sauce and garnished with Colbert potatoes. FRIED FILLETS OF KINGFISH, BREAD- CRUMBED Boneless sides of the fish sea- soned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, BLANQUETTE OF LAMB The breast or dipped in beaten eggs, then breadcrumbs, fried; served with Maitre D'Hotel butter, garnished with lemon and parsley. KIRSCHWASSER Name of a liqueur made from cherry juice; obtained by crushing the fruit, stones and kernels, then fermenting; used as a flavoring to sherbets, cakes, icings, ices and confectionery. KOHL-RABI Name of the cabbage turnip; may be peeled, boiled, mashed and seasoned same EPIGRAMME OF LAMB Breasts of as turnip; or, as is best, peeled, cut in quart- ers, boiled in salted water till done, drained, then simmered in butter sauce a few minutes before serving. KOUMISS A milk preparation tasting like but- termilk, used as a health beverage; made by filling quart champagne bottles up to the neck with pure milk to which is added a syrup made by dissolving two tablespoonfuls of white sugar in one of water, also ^ of a 2-cent cake of yeast; corked and tied securely, shaken well, stood for six hours in a warm room, then cooled overnight by placing in ice box. KROMESKIES Name applied to any form of croquette mixture made into form of corks, finger lengths, wrapped in a thin shaving of cold boiled bacon, dipped in batter and fried. KUMMEL Name of a liqueur prepared from cumin and caraway seeds in sweetened spirit. ROAST LAMB Any joint roasted a quarter of an hour to each pound in weight in a medium oven; must be frequently basted; about 10 minutes before taking up, should be dredged with flour and basted with melted butter, so as boned shoulder cut in neat pieces, seasoned with salt and white pepper, rolled in flour, quickly without coloring, saute 1 them with butter and a few minced shallots, take up in to a sautoir, make a cream sauce in the butter, etc., they were saute'ed in, strain over the lamb, simmer till done, adding some button mushrooms and a little chopped parsley; serve in a casserole, or with a border of fancy mashed potatoes. lamb simmered in seasoned white stock till the bones are easily removed (keeping the little rib bones) press the breasts ; when cold, trim and cut into cutlet shapes, point the rib bones and in- sert into the pieces of lamb, bread and fry one- half of them, roll in flour and saute 1 with butter the other half; served at the side of a croflstade filled with garnish, and a sauce at the sides; the saute'ed one should be brushed with light colored glaze; the croustade may be filled with Toulouse garnish, saute'ed lamb fries, mace 1 - doine of vegetables, green peas, asparagus tips, button mushrooms, diced lamb sweetbreads or brains, etc. FRICASSEE OF LAMB Breast of lamb cut into neat pieces, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, saute'ed lightly with butter, taken up into a sautoir, moistened with thin white sauce, simmered till done, skimmed, sauce then thickened with a liaison of egg yolks and cream, seasoned with nutmeg and cayenne; served with a garnish of green peas, inverted molds of dry boiled rice, macedoine of vegetables. to take on a delicate color; served either with CURRIED LAMB Cold roast lamb cut into mint sauce or currant jelly in separate dishes, neat P ieces with tfa e skin removed; curry sauce with a spoonful of gravy under the meat. made from lamb or mutton stock, simmered in BRAISED LAMB-The shoulder lifted off and h tiu thorou K hl y heat ed; served within a bor- boned, leaving the shank for a handle, lay it der of dr 7 boiled nce ' out flat, season with salt and pepper, spread CURRIED LAMB Rack of lamb cut into chops, with forcemeat, roll up, tie in neat shape, trimmed, saut^ed with minced shallots, taken up into a sautoir, sprinkled with flour and curry powder, seasoned with salt, lemon juice and a dash of cayenne, moistened with white stock, simmered with a sprig of green mint till done, mint then removed; served within a bor- braise it with vegetables; served with the strained and skimmed braise, or with a garnish of turned vegetables green peas, glazed col- umns of turnips, stuffed egg plant and okras, Brussels sprouts, Milanaise garnish, asparagus, larded lamb's sweetbreads, etc. BOILED LAMB The legs simmered in white der of rice, potatoes, green peas, button mush- rooms, etc. stock with a bunch of sweet herbs till done, STEWED LAMB Scrag of lamb and the chops sHowing 12 minutes to the pound; served with from under the shoulder cut in neat pieces, simmered in white stock till done, sauce made of the broth; served with a sprinkling of pars- ley and a garnish of vegetables. cream sauce, caper sauce, spinach pure'e, sorrel puree, haricots verts, shred wax or stringless beans, macedoine of vegetables, asparagus tips. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 99 CUTLETS OF LAMB The rack of lamb cut into chops and trimmed, then either breaded after seasoning, sauteed; spread on one side after lightly broiling with forcemeat or D'Uxel- les dressing, then finished in oven; served with a garnish of green peas, or any of the follow- ing: asparagus points, macedoine, button mush- rooms in sauce, Maitre D'Hotel butter, print- aniere, Villeroi sauce, Godard garnish, slices of stuffed cucumber, Toulouse or Financiere garnish, small new potatoes, pure"e of mint, stuffed tomatoes, pur suet and they will drive out any or all of the foreign mixed er tfae whole then bound with lemons. They are used by the catering frater- tfae lemoQ mixed wkh jg beaten Q{ nity in large quantities for flavoring and gar- {orm into dumpling shapeS| boilin acloth. nishing soups, sauces, salads, meats fish, pies, J*^ tm done ^ * ; ^ best) . serve with puddings, cakes, jellies, extracts, confectionery, & sweet Jemon flayored cream sauce mixing with drinks, ices, sorbets, creams, etc. LEMON MARMALADE-Three dozen lemons, LENTILS-Name of a brownish red, flatted their equal weight in granulated sugar, lemons sma11 P ea ' cultivated on the European conti- halved and their juice extracted and strained, Dent and Asia as a f od = ll ! s a most nourishing the rinds boiled till tender in plenty of water, article - ^taming about twice as much nounsh- then drained, pith scooped out, the skins then finely shred, the juice and sugar then boiled to LENTIL SOUP Lentils boiled till done in sea- a syrup, after which is added the shredded soned white stock lightly thickened with roux, skins, boiling continued till reduced to the seasoned with salt, pepper, tomato catsup; marmalade consistency; used for steamed roly- served with crofltons. poly puddings, tartlettes, layer cakes, etc., etc. LENTIL SOUP Lentils boiled till tender in LEMON MINCEMEAT Useful for mince pies white stock, with leeks, celery, parsley and a in temperance hotels and other temperance piece of salt pork; when done, pork removed, functions. Made of 2 Ibs. of lemons, 4 Ibs. of the soup lightly thickened, then rubbed through sour apples, 2 Ibs. of beef suet, 4 Ibs. of cur- the tamis; served with croutons. rants, 2 Ibs. granulated sugar, y z Ib. each of CREAM OF LENTILS The preceding pure candied citron and lemon peel, ij^ ozs. grated mixed with an equal quantity of Veloute' sauce; nutmeg, ^ oz. of mace. The apples cored and served with croutons. minced, the candied peels finely shred, the LETTUCE One of the best of salad plants; suet finely chopped, the currants washed, seen on our mar k ets i n three shapes, called the picked and drained, the lemons pared and the cabDag e lettuce, Cos lettuce and Romaine let- juice extracted, the rinds boiled tender, then tuce minced, the whole then thoroughly mixed, al- LETTUCE SALAD _ Well washed , wiped and lowed to stand a week before using; brandy and P port wine may be added if used for other than , . . r rencn dressing'. LE e MO e N a CRE P AM-Two quarts of milk brought LETTUCE AND ONION SALAD-Same as the to the boil with a pound and a half of sugar; Preceding, adding very finely shred spring grated rinds of four lemons mixed with six onions. ounces of sifted flour, then made into a smooth LETTUCE SALAD Hearts of cabbage lettuces thickening with milk; when smooth, poured to washed and wiped dry, sprinkled with chopped the boiling milk and stirred till creamy, then is chives, chervil and tarragon leaves, then dashed added three ounces of butter, juice of the lem- with a dressing of oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, ons and the yolks of 12 beaten eggs, continue LETTUCE AND TOMATO SALAD Well stirring till of a custard consistency; then re- washed, wiped and shred lettuce tossed with move and use for filling puffs, eclairs, lemon French dressing, garnished with peeled and cream pies, tartlettes, spreading layer cakes, sliced tomatoes having a drop of Ravigote etc. sauce on each. LEMON SOUP A rich cream of chicken soup LETTUCE AND TOMATO S A L A D Well nicely flavored with the grated rinds and juice was hed, wiped and shred lettuce tossed lightly of lemons. ^itb Remoulade sauce, add minced capers, LEMON SAUCE Lemons with seeds removed garnish with sliced peeled tomatoes spiinkled finely minced or passed through a mincing ma- with French dressing. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. LETTUCE AND CUCUMBER SALAD Well washed, wiped and broken lettuce leaves tossed and glistened with a dressing composed of 2 tablespoons of olive oil well beaten with 3 whole eggs, then add a dessert spoonful of rich cream and one of tarragon vinegar; served garnished with very thin slices of cucumber sprinkled with French dressing. BAKED STUFFED LETTUCE Trimmed, washed and drained lettuces, parboiled a few minutes, the insides then filled with sausage meat, the heads tied, arranged in a shallow sautoir, moistened with white stock and Ma- deira sauce, seasoned with salt and pepper, cov- ered with buttered paper, placed in oven and cooked till done, about 20 minutes; served with the string removed and the sauce poured over. LIMES A small kind of lemon, used in the bars for Rickeys and other drinks; served with oysters in preference to lemons, also with veal cutlets, fried soles, smelts and bass. At Mont- serrat the limes are cut in halves, the juice ex- tracted and bottled, then supplied to most ships at sea as a preventive of scurvy, British ships using it by law, so that an English ship is known amongst sailors as a "Limejuicer." LIVER For the following recipes either sheep's, lamb's, calf's, pig's or ox liver will do. RAGOUT OF LIVER Wash and dry a liver, steam it till quite tender, then cut it in slices, add it to a rich brown sauce or gravy, stew it till thoroughly heated through; served garnished with slices of lemon and hard boiled eggs. FRIED LIVER WITH ONIONS Liver washed and wiped dry, cut in slices, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour, fried in bacon fat; served with sliced onions that have been fried, drained and lightly moistened with brown sauce. SAUTE OF LIVER Thin slices of liver and bacon, the bacon fried not crisp, the liver seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour and lightly fried in the bacon fat, then taken up and placed with the bacon in a sautoir; lightly fry then a little minced onion in the bacon fat, add flour, stir, moisten with stock, boil up, skim, pour it to the liver and bacon, simmer till done; served sprinkled with chopped parsley, garnished with croutons. LIVER AND SALT PORK Same as the pre- ceding, substituting salt pork for the bacon. LIVER PUDDING Liver and bacon cut in squares, stewed in brown gravy, seasoned with salt and pepper, then filled into pudding molds lined with paste, covered, cloth tied over, boiled or steamed for an hour and a half; serve. CURRIED LIVER WITH FORCEMEAT Equal quantities of udder and liver minced, then pounded and rubbed through a sieve, seasoned with salt, pepper, sweet herbs and a little sifted breadcrumbs, add an egg or two; when thoroughly mixed, form into balls, rolled into sifted breadcrumbs, fried brown, then simmered in curry sauce till done through; served with the sauce and garnished with slices of broiled liver dipped in Maitre d'Hotel sauce. LOBSTER SALAD Lobster meat with lettuce or celery and mayonnaise, arranged on a disb and decorated with shapes of beet root, capers, pickles, whites of eggs and quartered hard boiled eggs. MIROTON OF LOBSTER Slices of lobster meat, half of them dipped in cold white sauce, the other half in a cold cardinal sauce, served on a bed of shred lettuce with mayonnaise down the centre. MAYONNAISE OF LOBSTER-Lobsters (hens) boiled in court- bouillon, when cold, the tail and claw meat sliced into a dish, the creamy part of the head with the coral mixed with yolks of eggs, mustard, oil and lemon juice, then worked to form a mayonnaise, when done, mixed with the lobster meat; served garnished with shred lettuce. LOBSTER IN ASPIC CREAM Also called "Mazarins of Lobster". Lobster meat in slices, molds thinly lined with aspic and decorated with coral, truffles and egg whites. Aspic cream made by taking a pint of light colored aspic jelly, melt it and place in a bowl sur- rounded with broken ice, add to it a short half cup of white wine vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar, a level teaspoon of dry mustard, two teaspoons of salt and a seasoning of red pepper, beat with a whisk, and as soon as it thickens add oil and vinegar alternately, a little at a time till of a mayonnaise consistency, finish with a dash of lemon juice; when ready, add the lobster meat, fill into the decorated molds, and when finally set, wipe the mold with a hot cloth, turn out on the dish, decorate with green stuff and serve. LOBSTER CHEESE Same as the preceding, but the molds not decorated (larger molds); when serving, the meat cut in slices like bead cheese. DEVILLED LOBSTER The lobster boiled, cooled, split in halves, all meat taken from the shells without breaking them, the inside of shell then brushed with olive oil or butter. Fry some minced shallots with the brown meat of the claws in butter, add little white sauce, season with salt, red pepper and Bengal chutney; when thick, add the lobster meat cut in small squares, then fill the shells, sprinkle with bread crumbs and melted butter, brown off in a brisk oven and serve garnished with cress. SCALLOPED LOBSTER Also called "Lobster au gratin". Equal quantities of lobster meat and button mushrooms cut in small squares. 102 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. added to a reduced Bdchamel sauce, with lob- taste, mix into a smooth paste with tomato ster coral or lobster butter and a little glaze, catsup, place between thin buttered bread, cut fill into lobster shells as in the preceding, finish on the bias and serve on a lettuce leaf. off and serve as above. LOBSTER TOAST Minced lobster meat sea- LOBSTER CROQUETTES Lobster meat and soned with salt and red pepper, then moistened button mushrooms in equal quantities cut into with rich cream, made thoroughly hot and very small dice, measure them, and for each served on buttered toast. pint, allow a pint of Ve'loute' sauce; boil the LOBSTER, BORDELAISE Lobster meat sau- sauce till reduced one third, then work in some t e"ed with a little minced onion, moistened with lobster butter and a liaison of egg yolks and equal quantities of Madeira and Chablis wines, cream, then add the lobster meat and mush- reduce to half glaze, then add equal parts of rooms, stir thoroughly, turn out into a buttered Espagnole and tomato sauces, bring to the boil, pan, cover with a sheet of oiled paper; when finish with chopped parsley and cayenne; serve cold and firm, shape into croquettes, bread, i n chafing dish. fry; serve with Perigueux, Poivrade or tomato LOBSTER NEWBURG Meat of two lobsters sauces. cu t j n j nc jj pj eces w jth some sliced truffles, LOBSTER CUTLETS Same as the preceding, saute 1 in butter for five minutes, then add a half forming them into shape to imitate a mutton cup of Madeira wine and reduce to one half; chop, using the small claws to imitate bone beat a cupful of cream with five egg yolks, add handle. it to the lobster, shuffle about till thick; serve RISSOLES OF LOBSTER-Same preparation in a chafin S dish ' as for croquettes, but instead of breading them, SALPICON OF LOBSTER Diced lobster meat, they are rolled into paste and fried. truffles and mushrooms added to a reduced LOBSTER PATTIES-Lobster meat cut in dice, Bechamel sauce; served either in paper cases mixed into a lobster sauce, patty shells filled or fanc y croustades. with it, top placed on; served on ornamented BAKED LOBSTER IN SHELL Lobster meat dish paper. cut into very small dice, seasoned with salt, red BOUCHEES OF LOBSTER Same as the pre- P e PPer, mustard, onion juice, Worcestershire ceding but smaller, (bouch^e means mouthful). sauce . chopped parsley and Bechamel sauce, STUFFED LOBSTER-The croquette prepara- filled into lobster shells - covered with bread ' tion filled into lobster shells, covered with crumbs, basted with butter, baked brown and sifted crumbs, basted with butter, baked brown served. and served LOBSTER WITH TOMATOES Small pieces STEWED LOBSTER-Lobster meat simmered o lobster in Bfechamel sau ", small tomatoes in a flour and butter sauce, seasoned with vin- stuffed with " P^ced inverted in patty pans, egar, mustard and red pepper, finished with a steamed . se ed hot h lobster sauce or cold , , glass of sherry wine; served on very hot toast, W1 | h as P 1C J 6 "^ or masked Wlth as ? ic garnished with lemon slices. BROCHETTE OF LOBSTER-Slices of lobster LOBSTER OMELET-Lobster meat in lobster meat from the tail, and very thin slices of par- sauce - enclosed within an omelet; served with boiled bacon, arranged alternately on a skewer, Aurora sauce down the sides. rolled in a mixture of melted butter, seasoned ESCALLOPED LOBSTER Lobster meat cut with Worcestershire sauce, salt, pepper and in dice made hot in either Normande or Hollan- nutmeg, broil, carefully turning them; served daise sauces, filled into scallop shells or oval on a slice of very hot toast, with a little Miitre dishes, strewn with breadcrumbs and melted D'Hotel butter. butter, browned off and served. BROILED LIVE LOBSTER At least that is FRICASSEE OF LOBSTER Lobster meat cut what it is called, but the lobster is dead im- in slices, made hot in a rich Veloute sauce, mediately the head is split, even though the finished with a liaison of egg yolks and a dash flesh may quiver. The lobster split, the un- of lemon juice; served garnished with strips of eatable parts removed, seasoned with salt and buttered toast or toasted crackers. pepper, placed within a wire hinged broiler, LOBSTER AND OYSTER PIE Individual pies brushed with butter, broiled; served with for restaurants and clubs; blanched oysters and melted butter and lemons. lobster meat in equal quantities, a thick lobster CURRIED LOBSTER Lobster meat made hot sauce thinned a little with the oyster liquor, in a good curry sauce lightly flavored with individual pie dishes with the lobster and anchovy essence; served within a border of dry oysters, moistened with the sauce, strewn with boiled rice. chopped parsley, covered with puff paste, egg LOBSTER SANDWICH-Mash some cheese and washed and baked, (A RATTLING GOOD lobster coral, add mustard, pepper and salt to SELLING DISH). THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. , 103 LOBSTER SOUP Equal parts of fish broth and MACARONI, ITALIAN S T Y L E Macaroni white stock thickened with roux, boiled up and broken into three-inch lengths and put to boil skimmed, seasoned with salt, red pepper and with a seasoning of salt and a pat or two of Harvey sauce, into the soup tureen place lob- batter; when done, turned into a colander and ster meat cut in dice together with the claws drained dry; meantime heat some tomato sauce and upper shell of the lobsters that have been and work into it a little butter and glaze. Into pounded and rubbed through a fine sieve, add a buttered pan place a layer of the macaroni, the strained soup with a glass of sherry wine; moisten it with the sauce, then strew with serve with croutons. Parmesan cheese, renew this operation till pan LOBSTER SOUP, CREOLE STYLE Court- is ful1 - strew the top plentifully with cheese, bouillon mixed with an equal quantity of Creole bake for half an hour in medium oven and sauce, boiled and skimmed, the soup tureen to serve hot. contain diced lobster meat, boiled rice, and a MACARONI AND CHEESE (PLAIN) Break little chopped green mint, add the soup and the macaroni and boil in salted water with a serve pat of butter till done, then drain, place back LOBSTER SOUP, MARINER'S STYLE-Court- int the sautoir and add to it a cupful each of bouillon seasoned with carrot, turnip, onion, melted butter, Parmesan cheese, grated Swiss celery and anchovy essence, thickened with ? eese ' and crea u m ' tos " '* wel1 OV * T a ^ uick corn starch, simmered till clear, soup tureen to fire; serve g^'shed with fancy croutons, contain lobster meat, lobster butter, small BAKED MACARONI AND CHEESE- Also claws, small boiled onions, soup poured to it called "macaroni au gratin"; the preceding with a little sherry wine and served. when prepared, turned into a buttered pan. LOBSTER MULUGATA^EY-M*. .UI- S^.T^ed gatawney soup from court-bouillon, soup tureen to contain lobster meat and a little dry boiled baked a dehcate brown and served ' rice, soup poured to it and served. MACARONI (as the Monks like it)-Macaroni _ Tr ,^... T _ _._ T _._ _, ,, , , , , .. , broken, boiled and drained, then mixed with a BISQUE OF LOBSTER-Meat of fresh boiled ^ Q{ d ^^ and m ^ lobsters cut in dice, the tough parts with the shells and claws boiled for 20 minutes, the MArARONI AND r <, , FRENCH coral dried in a slow oven, little rice boiled in M ^?, o ? fish broth, make a thin Bechamel sauce from STYLE)-Broken lengths of macaroni boiled fish broth, add the liquor from the shells, 2O minutes ' drained ' *"* into a guttered then the rice and coral rub the whole through P an; mix ' nto ^ch pound ha f a cup of melted a tamis. bring to the boil again and skim, then bu " er a d a cu P ful / coarsely chopped cheese. pour it to the diced lobster meat; serve with to thls add a ^ uart of haison made <* water, 4 lobster quenelles in each plate. e & 5 and ahttle fl " r ' P lace m a medmm . 9 for ten minutes, then pour over all, without BISQUE OF LOBSTER-Pieces of ham, salt stirringi a pint and half of Bechamel parsley pork, parsley, sweet herbs, onions, lobster saucei bake brown and serve, meat and shells fried together with butter, lit- MACARON I AND TOMATOES - Macaroni tie flour then added, moistened with fish broth broken boiled and drained; ret urned to sau- boiled an hour, then rice added and boiled till toir and tQ each d of macaroni add half a tender, the whole then rubbed through a tamis. int each of minGed cheese browQ saace> and seasoned finished with sherry wine; served roast meat gravy also a pint of thick stewed atons - tomatoes; when thoroughly reheated it is ready LOCUSTS A curious sight in the market place to serve; or it may be turned into a buttered of FEZ is the daily arrival of wagon loads of pan, sprinkled with cheese and simmered for locusts. With the Moors who inhabit this part half an hour in a medium oven. of North Africa, locusts form a regular article MACARONI AND OYSTERS, MILAN STYLE of food; they are eaten in almost every style, Macaroni broken, boiled and drained, placed pickled, salted, dried or smoked, but never raw. in layers in buttered pan, the top of each layer The negroes on the northern coast of Africa covered with drained raw oysters, a sprinkling show a great partiality for locusts and eat from o f me lted butter, pepper and salt; when full, 200 to 300 at a sitting. They remove head, the whole moistened with a thin cream sauce, wings and legs, and boil them for half an hour baked till set. Cooked and served in individual in water, take out and drain, season with salt dishes this is a good seller in clubs and res- and pepper, then fry with vinegar. taurants. MACARONI Name of a preparation of wheat MACARONI, CREOLE STYLE A pound of flour and water, that which is of home manu- macaroni broken, boiled and drained, one large facture being equally as good in grades as the onion minced with two cloves of garlic and imported. fried in oil; when of a pale brown, add two io 4 . THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. minced red peppers and a quart of tomato sauce, then add the macaroni, simmer and serve. MACARONI, GENOISE STYLE Macaroni broken, boiled and drained, then kept hot. drained; buttered mold, macaroni coiled close all round the inside, rilled with a *orcemeat of chicken, then steamed till firmly set, turned out; served with white Italian sauce poured over. Equal parts of tomato and Espagnole sauces MACARONI WITH SAUSAGES Macaroni mixed and fetched to the boil; served, sauce in bottom of shallow dish, macaroni on it, this then strewn with Parmesan cheese. TIMBALES OF MACARONI Macaroni boiled and drained, then cut into inch lengths, sea- soned with Parmesan cheese, pepper and salt; broken, boiled and drained; pork sausages boiled, skinned and cut into slices; buttered pan, layer of macaroni, then sausages, strewn with grated cheese, repeat till full, then a rich veal gravy poured over, baked half an hour in a medium oven, then served. to each pound of the macaroni is then added a MACARONI CROQUETTES Macaroni boiled half pint each of sliced button mushrooms, braised chicken livers and smoked tongue, a truffle or two, the whole mixed and slightly moistened with Italian sauce. Timbale molds butte r ed, coated with cracker meal, filled with the mixture, brushed with butter, baked brown, turned out; served, a little Spanish sauce on dish, timbale in centre, the top piled high with Parmesan cheese. MACARONI WITH LOBSTER BUTTER Macaroni broken, boiled and drained, a deep pan buttered, layer of macaroni, on it is spread lobster butter, that again strewn with Par- mesan, theu a little Bechamel sauce, repeat till pan is full, then place in oven and thoroughly heat without browning; served in portions decorated with slices of lobster meat alternated with slices of truffle. BUTTERED MACARONI Macaroni broken, boiled and drained; while still hot, each por- tion served by putting a spoonful of melted butter in oval dish, then the macaroni, tossed and drained, cut in small pieces, returned to sautoir, to which is then added grated ham and tongue, minced mushrooms and truffles, Parm- esan cheese and a little thick Veloute' sauce; reheat thoroughly, turn into a buttered pan 2 or 3 inches deep, cover with buttered paper and allow to set firm; then stamp out with the larg- est sized column cutter, the columns then rolled in Parmesan cheese, then breaded, fried and served with Trianon sauce composed of equal parts of Bearnaise and reduced tomato sauces, carefully mixed together. MACARONI PUDDING Macaroni broken, boiled with sweetened milk, grated lemon rind and a stick of cinnamon; when done drained, the milk returned to the fire, brought to the boil, thickened with a liaison of egg yolks, cream and a little corn starch; when to cus- tard thickness, removed, seasoned with nutmeg; macaroni in deep buttered pan spread with preserves or marmalade, the custard poured over, baked and served. in the butter and strewn while tossing with MACARONI WITH HAM Take cold ham trim- Parmesan cheese. mings, put through a mincing machine, use it instead of cheese, and bake, au gratin. MACARONI CREAMED WITH EGGS Mac- aroni broken, boiled and drained, then tossed over a quick fire with butter; meantime make some scrambled eggs with cream, equal the amount of eggs with Parmesan cheese, add both MACARONI WITH FISH FLAKES Proceed as in recipe given for macaroni and oysters; substituting either flakes of boiled fresh cod- fish, redsnapper, salmon, salmon trout, white- fish or pike for the oysters. MACARONI WITH LAMB KIDNEYS Maca- roni broken, boiled and drained; lamb kidneys sliced and sauteed with butter; buttered pan, to the hot macaroni, keep hot and serve as called, (do not let it boil). layer of macaroni, on it, a layer of the kidneys, MACARONI WITH TOMATO PUREE Mac- moisten with tomato sauce, repeat till pan is full, the top then covered with slices of hard boiled eggs, these thickly strewn with Parme- san cheese, placed in oven till of a delicate brown, then served. MACARONI WITH SPINACH PUREE Mac- aroni broken, boiled and drained; spinach well washed, boiled, drained, rubbed through sieve, moistened with rich roast veal gravy; buttered pan, layer of macaroni, then spinach; strew with Parmesan, repeat till full, then bake half an hour in a medium oven, and serve. TIMBALE OF MACARONI AND FORCE- MEAT Macaroni boiled in full lengths, aroni broken, boiled and drained; tomato puree thick, containing a little grated ham and a slight flavor of garlic, layers of each strewn with Parmesan in buttered pan till full, bake and serve. MACARONI SOUP Macaroni broken, boiled and drained, add to a rich beef broth, or in tomato soup, or chicken broth, etc. When turning the soup into the tureen on steam table, place some Parmesan cheese in the bottom, or else serve a butter chip full with each portion, (club or restaurant service). CREAMED MACARONI Macaroni b r oken, boiled and drained, returned to sautoir, moist- THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 105 ened with Ve'loute' sauce; served strewn with ter; served with a brown fish sauce at the sides, Parmesan and garnished with puff paste crou- garnished with green stuff and lemon, tons (made in leaf shape from trimmings). SOUSED MACKEREL Heads and tails re- MACE The inner shell that covers the nutmeg; moved, the fish drawn and wiped, arranged in used in its blade form as a flavoring to soups pan with whole peppers, allspice, bay leaves and sauces; in its ground or powdered form, and cloves, cover them with equal quantities of as a flavoring to sweet sauces, puddings, mince- white wine vinegar and water, bake slowly for meats, cakes, etc. one hour, serve cold, either plain or with Rav- MACEDOINE A French term used to indicate igote sauce. a mixture of fancy cut vegetables or fruits; the BAKED STUFFED FILLETS OF MACKEREL former either plain or mixed with sauce is used Split, bone and wipe the fish, season with in soups or as a garnish, the latter generally in salt and pepper, quickly set the cut side by sweet jellies. lightly frying in butter; make the stuffing of MACKEREL A fine salt water fish enjoyed by fresh grated breadcrumbs moistened with Alle- most people; it should not be washed, wipe it mande sauce and seasoned with minced fried dry with a clean cloth, cut off the fillets, sea- shallots, chopped parsley, anchovy essence and son with salt and pepper, score the skin lightly, Harvey's sauce; spread it on the fried side, squeeze a little lemon juice on the flesh, broil smooth, arrange on buttered baking sheet, it skin side down first, serve it with maitre d' bake; serve garnished with potato croquettes hotel butter, garnish with Julienne potatoes, and lemon. and you have the dish of an epicure. BOILED SALT MACKEREL No. i mess are BOILED MACKEREL Draw and wipe the the best; soak them overnight in cold water, then fish, boil it plain in salted water; serve with rinse in clear running water, then lay them for melted butter separate, garnish with Hollan- an hour in milk, put to boil in cold water, when daise potatoes and half a lemon. done, serve with melted butter, miitre d'hotel, BOILED MACKEREL Head removed, cut in mustard, or parsley sauces. halves across, drawn, wiped, boiled in sea- BROILED SALT MACKEREL Extract the soned fish broth containing an onion, bunch of salt as in the preceding, then wipe dry after parsley and a little Chablis wine; when done taking them out of the milk, season with pep- (about 12 minutes) serve either with parsley, per, brush with butter, broil; serve with melted caper, olive, drawn butter or Ravigote sauces. butter, garnished with parsley and lemon. BUTTERED MACKEREL Fillets of mackerel MADEIRA Name of a wine. Sauces, cakes, wiped dry, placed into a sauce made of melted ices and jellies so named are supposed to con- butter seasoned with anchovy essence, a little tain some of it, which rarely happens, sherry mustard, lemon juice, ground mace and red and Marsala usually being substituted, pepper, stew slowly for twenty minutes, then MADELINES Name given to small cakes baked serve. io fancy patty pans, made of a pound mixture, BROILED STUFFED MACKEREL Draw the viz: a pound each of butter, sugar, sifted flour, fish and wipe dry; make the stuffing of cold but- e gg s ( ten ) and a wine g lass of c g nac : some ter with a very little fresh grated bread crumbs, also add sultana raisins, currants and candied chopped chives and shallots, lemon juice, salt peels. and pepper, stuff the opening where drawn, roll MAITRE D'HOTEL Name applied to a sauce in buttered paper, tie the ends, broil slowly till and a garnish (the literal meaning of the name done, remove the paper; serve at once garnished is a steward). The sauce is composed of melted with green stuff and lemon. butter, chopped parsley and lemon juice, and BAKED FILLETS OF MACKEREL The fish is used chiefly with broiled meat and fish; quar- wiped and filleted, the fillets baked and basted tered boiled potatoes in the sauce is the garnish with maitre d'hotel butter; served with a for boiled fish; and quartered lemons with the brown fish sauce centaining chopped chervil, meat is the garnish. tarragon, minced truffle peelings and a flavor- MALLARD Name of our best and largest wild ing of port wine. duck. FRIED MACKEREL, BUTTER SAUCE Fil- ROAST MALLARD, AMERICAN STYLE The lets of mackerel wiped, seasoned with lemon birds plucked, singed, drawn and trussed, then juice, salt and red pepper, dipped in flour, roasted rare 30 to 40 minutes, jointed, the then into beaten eggs, fried in hot fat; served joints kept hot; the carcasses stewed down with with lemon butter sauce, garnished with Parisi- herbs and seasonings, sauce made from it, fin- enne potatoes. ished with currant jelly and port wine, served FILLETS OF MACKEREL, SAUTES The with the J n ts- fillets wiped seasoned with salt, red pepper and MALLARD, PROVENCALE STYLE The lemon juice, rolled in flour, saute"ed with but- birds plucked, singed, drawn, stuffed, trussed, THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. roasted and served in portions with the gravy from the birds mixed with shallot sauce. BROILED MALLARD, MAITRE D'HOTEL The birds plucked, singed, split down the back; back and breastbones removed, laid skin down- wards in a pan, seasoned with salt, pepper and olive oil, marinaded in this for 15 minutes, then broiled rare; served with mHitre d'hotel butter and garnished with water cress. FRIED MALLARD, ORANGE SAUCE The The birds prepared, split down the back, back and breastbones removed, thigh bone snapped, marinaded for an hour in olive oil with a few chopped onions, parsley and mushroom ketch- up, taken up, fried rare with a little olive oil; served with Bigarade sauce. FILLETS OF MALLARD, GAME SAUCE Prepare and roast as for American style above; when done, take off the fillets, stew down the carcasses in game sauce with a few shallots, port wine and a piece of game glaze, strain through a fine chinee cap, finish with cayenne and lemon juice; served with the portions. SALMIS OF MALLARD The birds plainly roasted very rare, jointed, the joints skinned; carcasses and skins then boiled down with herbs, cloves, whole peppers, bay leaves and fried shallots; when reduced, made into a sauce, strained and skimmed, finished with a little glaze and port wine, joints then put in and simmered for 15 minutes, afterwards kept hot but not allowed to boil; served garnished with croutons. MANGO Name of a most superb torrid climate fruit, about the size of a large lemon, the inter- ior of a pulpy nature attached to a stone in size like that of a large peach stone. On account of its perishability in transport, we obtain it chiefly as a pickle, jelly, chutney or preserve. MARASCHINO A very fine liqueur of Italian origin, obtained from the Marasca cherry, plum and peach kernels; used both as a drink and a flavoring to jellies, ices, sauces, puddings, meringues, etc., etc. MARINADE A pickling mixture made of oil, vinegar, lemon juice; salt, pepper, herbs, Wor- cestershire sauce, anchovy essence, onions, bay leaves, whole peppers, whole cloves, and parsley, the different ingredients above being variously added to the oil; vinegar or lemon juice according to the fish, flesh or fowl to be marinaded, the article being steeped for an hour or so prior to being cooked so as to either en- rich or bring out the flavor in cooking. MARJORAM Name of a garden herb used as a flavoring to soups, sauces and stuffing for fish and fowl. MARMALADE Another name for jam, marma- lade being the word mostly used in this coun- try. Recipes for its making are found under the fruit headings which can be used. MAR RONS French name for chestnu.s. The French take the large nuts and preserve them by candying, then export them either in cans with syrup, or crystalized. MARROW The contents of leg of beef bones, especially the bone of the buttock, which runs between the thick flank, top side and silver side, the buttock generally being termed the round. The top side of the buttock makes very fine steaks indeed, and in England fetches 250 per pound; the silver side of the buttock being used for boiling either fresh or salt, and fetches i6c per pound. The marrow bone should be sawn in three pieces, the marrow taken out, blanched in boiling milk and water for a minute, cooled, then cut in slices to lay on a steak, over which may be poured fines-herbes sauce, or it may be cut in pieces and mixed with chopped mush- rooms, onion and parsley, and filled into paper cases that have been buttered and lined with breadcrumbs, then baked and served; or into fancy paste croustades; or it may be cut into small dice, seasoned, mixed with cream and beaten eggs, filled into patty pans lined with puff paste and baked; or again simmered in white Italian sauce and used as a bcuch^e or small patty filling; again cut into long pieces, dipped in a frying batter, fried and served with a tomato pure"e; made into quenelles by adding an equal quantity of bread crumbs, a little flour, salt, pepper and egg yolks, pound, rub through a sieve, form with spoons, then poach. MARZIPAN Name given to an almond paste used by confectioners; made of 14 ozs. of sweet almonds, two of bitter, one pound of powdered sugar, a flavoring either of orange flower or rose water; the almonds are blanched, dried, pounded with the sugar and flavoring to a paste, then put into a preserving pan and stirred over the fire till it clings in a mass to the spat- ula, it is then formed into rolls, cut in slices and baked in a very cool oven till of a light brown color, or forced through a bag and tube into ring shapes, dusted with sugar and baked. MASTIC An aromatic resin used for flavoring chewing gum. MATELOTE Name of a fish stew or garnish for fish, (a la Matelote means in sailor's style). See garnishes. MAYONNAISE Name of a salad dressing, also as a decorative sauce for cold fish. Made with a pint of olive oil, half a pint of white vinegar, juice of two lemons, five raw egg yolks, one ounce of dry mustard, salt and red pepper to taste; place the cold yolks and mustard in a cold bowl, thorougly mix, then drop by drop stir in one-fourth of the oil, when like butter gradually thin with some of the liquid, then add the salt, when it will be found to have thickened right up again; then finish stirring in the remaining oil and liquid at alternate intervals, finish with THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 107 the red pepper (some add a little powdered sugar with the pepper). When finished it should be thick enough to mask a fish or salad without running off. ASPIC MAYONNAISE Equal parts of mayon- naisse and bright aspic jelly barely melted, beaten together, used to set mazarins. MAZARINS Molds of decorated fillets of fowl, game or fish, set with aspic mayonnaise, turned out when cold and firm, decorated and sent to table. MEDALLIONS Name given to medal size and shaped pieces of savory foods, such as f oie-gras, potted tongue, ham, etc., jellied meats. They are always nicely decorated and generally used as an appetizer or hors d'oeuvre. MELONS Name of a fruit largely contained of water; the watermelon and the different varie- ties of canteloupe; the latter being used gener- ally as a breakfast appetizer, and the former as a dinner dessert; preserved watermelon rind makes a fine preserve for the summer tea. MELON PRESERVE Cut the watermelon rind into small pieces, place 20 Ibs. into a tub, sprinkle it well with a pint of salt, just cover it with cold water and allow it to marinade for five hours, then drain, and again cover it with cold water and soak for two hours, changing the water three times, then drain, put on the fire in a preserving pan, cover with boiling water, bring to boiling point, then drain again; make a syrup of ten pounds of sugar and six quarts of boiling water, boil and skim, then add Menus in the languages of Europe. They do not print the Menus in France in the American language; then why should we print our Ameri- can bills of fare in French, or as is generally the case in half French and half American? For example: "Veal cutlet a la Francaise," or "Small patties de volaille," why not put Small patties of chicken"? Everyone knows what chicken is and will order it, but all do not know that volaille translated means fowl. One of my first thoughts in 'writing' this handbook vjas to abstain from French terms. I said to my self, I WILL WRITE AN AMERI- CAN CULINAR Y HANDBOOK FOR AMERI- CANS. I have heard it frequently stated that the terms for the bill of fare could not be prop- erly represented in the American language. I SAY IT CAN, and as a proof positive you have it here. There are no French terms used for the receipts of this book, and the headings as given are what should in my opinion be placed on the bill of fare, as perfectly adequate in describing the dish. MERINGUE Name given to a mixture made by whipping whites of eggs to a stiff froth, then working in sugar, and sometimes flavor- ings and colors; used as a covering to cup custards, puddings, cream pies, shortcakes, florentines, etc., as an icing for cakes; also when of a firm mixture forced through a bag and tube into shapes, then baked dry without much color, the insides are then scooped out and used as a receptacle for ices, ice creams, creams, etc. the melon rind, and slowly simmer till tender; MILANAISE Name of a garnish composed of skim out the rind, place it on draining sieves strips o{ white chicken meat, red ham, black truffles and pipe macaroni worked into a ve'loute' sauce, finished with a little Parmesan cheese. MILT Name of the soft roe of fish. for two hours in a warm place to set; when hardened place into cold crocks; boil up the syrup again with the sliced peel and juice of eight lemons and two ounces of sliced ginger, boil ten minutes, then strain over the fruit in MINCEMEAT Ten pounds of sound cooking the crocks. MENU French term for "bill of fare". Why should the word MENU head our American dinner bills? Why should the progressive Ameri- can ape dying France? Why should the Ameri- can culinary student detest the kitchen be- cause he cannot twist his tongue around the French culinary a la this and that? Is not the American flag dear to the American? Then why net the American language? Does not the farmer, mechanic, layman and every American who patronizes hotel, restaurant and club life know the meaning of the term "bill of fare"? Then why put the French word "MENU" at the apples chopped fine, ten pounds of raisins seeded and chopped, five pounds of currants thoroughly cleaned and freed from grit, % pound each of orange and lemon candied peel, two pounds of citron all shredded, ten pounds of granulated sugar, a mixture of ground spice (made of five grated nutmegs, a dessert spoon- ful each of cloves, mace, allspice, cinnamon and black pepper), seven and a half pounds each of beef suet and boiled lean beef chopped, half a cup of salt, mix well, then moisten with the juice of ten oranges, a quart each of good brandy and Jamaica rum and enough old cider to form a stiff consistency. head, and the generally mongrel Frenchy terms MINT A garden herb, used as a soup and sauce throughout the bill of fare? When in Rome do as the Romans do; then when in America do as the Americans do. Let those from France, or the French scholars, read the plain home- like American language on our bills of fare, the same as the traveling American has to read the flavoring; mint sauce for lamb made by finely chopping fresh green mint, then place it in a tureen adding to it the grated rind and juice of a lemon; bring to the boil with enough sugar to be palatable, one pint of good vinegar, pour it to the mint, let cool and serve. i 08 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. MOLASSES A thick liquid obtained from sugar in its process of refining; used for cakes, pud- dings, candy, etc. MULLET A small sea fish of the Southern coasts, seldom seen at table, as the gray is too common, and the red too scarce. The red should be just wiped, the entrails drawn, leav- ing the liver and trail in the fish, roll them in olive oil, sprinkle with parsley, broil them in paper cases and serve with Italian, Ravigote or fine herb sauce. The gray mullet may be treated in any of the forms applicable to herrings MUSHROOMS An edible fungi, umbrella shaped, dark gills, with easily removable skin; if those sold you have white gills and the skin will not strip easily, but breaks off in bits, dis- card them, they will probably be found to be toadstools. At least 70 per cent, of the mush- rooms used in culinary preparations are canned button mushrooms and morels. Fresh mush- rooms are seldom used in sauces on account of their color. The following recipes will use canned, except where stated. PUREE OF MUSHROOMS Canned button mushrooms minced, saute*ed with butter for five minutes, moistened with ve*loute" sauce, reduce quickly, then add some thick cream and lemon juice, reduce five minutes more, then rub through a tamis for use. MUSHROOM GARNISH Canned mushrooms drained, the liquor reduced, the mushrooms boiled down with a seasoning of salt, lemon juice, butter and a little white stock, when nearly dry, the liquor added, the whole then put into a thick Allemande sauce and used to garnish white entries, or put into a rich Espag- nole sauce to garnish brown entries. STUFFED MUSHROOMS, ITALIAN SAUCE Large fresh mushrooms skinned, stalk removed, placed skin side downward in a buttered baking pan, filled with the following: Mince the stalks with some shallots, parsley, fat bacon, lean ham and thyme leaves, saute" them in olive oil for five minutes, then work in some egg yolks, season with salt and pepper; when filled, sprinkle with breadcrumbs and melted butter, bake till nicely browned (about 20 minutes); serve with brown Italian sauce poured around, garnish with fancy croutons. BAKED MUSHROOMS ON TOAST Medium sized fresh mushrooms skinned and the stalks removed, wash in cold water containing a dash of vinegar, drain, arrange in a buttered baking pan skin side downward; into each then place half a pat of butter, bake till done (about 20 minutes) basting with the butter once or twice; serve on buttered toast garnished with tufts of fried parsley. BROILED MUSHROOMS Large fresh mush- rooms skinned and the stalks removed, dipped in melted butter, seasoned with salt and pepper, placed in wire hinged broiler, broiled till done; meantime slice the stalks very thin and saute them with butter and a little chopped parsley; serve the mushrooms on toast, or as an accom- paniment to steaks, cutlets, etc., adding the sauteed stalks. MUSHROOMS IN CROUSTADES Small fresh button mushrooms peeled, washed, drained, saute'ed with butter, chopped chives and pars- ley, seasoned with salt and pepper, just moist- ened with Allemande sauce and a dash of lemon juice, filled into fancy paste, or fried bread croustades and served. SAUTE OF MUSHROOMS Medium sized fresh mushrooms peeled, washed and drained, sauteed with butter and minced shallots, seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, moistened slightly with chicken broth, then reduce; serve on toast, or on platter garnished with strips of buttered toast, or as a garnish. STUFFED MUSHROOMS, CREOLE STYLE Medium sized fresh mushrooms peeled and washed, stalks removed and minced with a lit- tle celery and green peppers, saute the mince in olive oil, then moisten with chicken liquor, re- duce, then thicken with fresh grated bread- crumbs, remove from fire and add strips of truffle peelings, chopped parsley, salt and pap- rika, fill the mushrooms, smooth, brush with beaten eggs, press on some breadcrumbs, arrange in a shallow sautoir, saute on both sides, when nicely browned, take up and serve on toast with Creole sauce separate. STEWED MUSHROOMS Canned mushrooms drained, the liquor reduced, the mushrooms fried light brown with butter, seasoned with salt and pepper, when brown add a little flour, shake, moisten with the liquor, juice of lemons, Espagnole sauce and sherry wine, simmer and skim; when bright, use as a garnish to larded fillet of beef, etc. FRICASSEE OF MUSHROOMS Canned but- ton mushrooms drained, the liquor reduced, the mushrooms fried a light brown with butter and minced shallots; when colored, drained, and placed with the reduced liquor into a rich Poulette sauce, season with nutmeg, salt, cay- enne and lemon juice; served on toast, in cases, croustades, or as a garnish to white entries. MUSHROOM SAUCE Canned mushrooms drained, the liquor reduced, the mushrooms sauteed lightly with butter, then added to a Veloute sauce with the reduced liquor, season with cayenne and lemon juice for white entries, or use Madeira or Espagnole sauces for brown entrees. CREAMED FRESH MUSHROOMS-Fresh but- ton mushrooms peeled, washed and drained, thick pure cream fetched to the boil, mush- THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 109 rooms cooked in it till done (about 7 minutes), season with salt and cayenne; serve in chafing dish. MUSHROOM CATSUP Fresh mushrooms wiped (not washed) and placed into crocks in layers till full, each layer being well sprinkled with salt; when full, cover with a folded cloth and stand in a warm place for 24 hours, then mash and strain through a very coarse towel or a sack; to each gallon of the liquor thus obtained add a quarter of a pound of whole peppers and simmer for half an hour, then add one ounce of whole cloves, one ounce of whole allspice, two ounces of bruised ginger and half an ounce of whole mace, simmer for another half hour, then remove from fire; when cold, strain through a jelly bag, bottle, cork and seal. STUFFED MUSHROOMS ON TOAST Fresh mushrooms, the stalks minced and saute'ed with a few shallots and parsley, added then to a lit- tle minced chicken in sauce Supreme, the mushrooms stuffed with it and baked; served on circles of buttered toast. FRICASSEE OF MUSHROOMS Fresh mush- rooms peeled, broiled on outside till brown, simmered in thin Bechamel sauce till done; served with fancy croutons. MUSHROOM RISSOLES A quart of minced fresh mushrooms, two minced medium sized onions, pepper, salt, a pinch of ground mixed herbs, simmered in thick sauce till the onion is done, a spoonful then placed in rounds of pas- try, edges folded over, pinched round, sprink- led with breadcrumbs and fried in oil. MUSHROOM OMELET Use either canned or fresh mushrooms, saute" till tender with a few minced shallots, drain, add them to a Madeira sauce, simmer, make the omelet, enclose the mushrooms, pour the sauce around it and send to table. MUSCALLONGE A large fish of the pike species found in the great lakes; may be cooked and served in all the ways for pike (which see). MUSSELS A large almond shaped shellfish found along the coasts, equally as good as oys- ters, but on account of their cheapness not so much used; are eaten raw the same as oysters, but generally first blanched, the usual way be- ing to thoroughly wash the shells, then to % fill a saucepan with them, adding just a little water, put on the lid, then steam till they open their shells, when the fish is removed, they may then be used as follows: SCALLOPED MUSSELS Large fat mussels raw, simmered till plump in a little fish broth with bay leaf, thyme and parsley; taken up, drained, added to a thick Bechamel sauce, filled into scallop shells, smoothed over, sprinkled with breadcrumbs and grated cheese, browned off and served. BROCHETTE OF MUSSELS Blanched mus- sels threaded on skewers, dipped in melted butter and breadcrumbs twice, then broiled, or may be dipped in butter and fried in deep fat. FRIED MUSSELS Raw mussels drained, rolled in flour, then in beaten eggs, fried a golden brown in a little very hot fat in a frying pan. FRICASSEE OF MUSSELS Blanched mussels in Hollandaise sauce; served on toast sprinkled with parsley dust. STEAMED MUSSELS, LEMON BUTTER SAUCE Blanched mussels simmered in mai- tre d'hotel butter; served on strips of hot toast, sauce poured over them. STEWED MUSSELS Blanched mussels, boil- ing milk %, mussel liquor strained */$, butter, salt, red pepper; same as oyster stew. STEWED MUSSELS Blanched mussels, thin white sauce made of % milk and l /$ strained mussel liquor, mussels added with chopped parsley, salt and red pepper; served with oyster crackers or thin brown bread. MUSSELS BREADED, VILLEROI SAUCE Blanched mussels dipped into cooling Villeroi sauce; when set, dipped into sifted bread- crumbs, then egg and breadcrumbs, fried in dripping a golden color; served garnished with tufts of fried parsley, and lemon. MUSSELS SAUTES WITH FINE HERBS Blanched mussels saute'ed with butter, minced chives, parsley, garlic and sifted breadcrumbs, seasoned with salt and pepper; served in cases. MUSSEL SAUCE Blanched mussels in sauce Normande. CREAMED MUSSELS Raw mussels dropped into hot butter and saute'ed till plump, Becha- mel sauce then added, simmered; served on toast with sauce poured over. MUSSELS, ITALIAN STYLE Raw mussels saute'ed in butter with minced onions; when onions are slightly brown, the oysters taken up into a sautoir, tomatoes added and reduced till thick, then added to the mussels with white sauce and chopped parsley; seasoned with salt, pepper, butter and a dash of anchovy essence; served in scallop dishes garnished with sippets of toast. MUSSELS, FISHERMEN STYLE Raw mus- sels dried between cloths, butter fried to a nut brown, mussels then added and fried till plump, taken up; light brown sauce then made with the butter, flour, salt, pepper and fish broth, mus- sels arranged on toast, sauce poured over and served . PAN ROAST OF MUSSELS Raw mussels dropped into frothing butter and fried till plump, seasoned with salt and cayenne; served on strips of toast with enough of the liquor to moisten it, sprinkled with parsley dust and garnished with cress and lemon. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. MUSTARD A yellow flour produced by finely grinding the seeds of the mustard plant; prepared for table as a condiment by simply mixing to a thick cream with cold water and a taste of salt. The French prepare mustard for table use by boiling together equal quantities of tarragon and cider vinegars, pouring it to the mustard flour and when thickened, simmered a few min- utes, meanwhile adding a flavoring composed of white wine which has had soaked in it in a warm place for an hour or so some celery seeds, whole spices and a clove of crushed garlic, salt and a taste of sugar. MUSTARD AND CRESS These are the first sproutings of the cress seed and the mustard seed, used in equal proportions mixed, after being thoroughly washed and drained. To form sandwiches between brown bread and butter simply sprinkled with salt, or used as a breakfast salad by lightly tossing with a sprink- ling of salt, olive oil and lemon juice. MUTTON What a tremendous difference there is in mutton, brought about by its different pastures and breeds. The steward should al- ways buy WETHER mutton, leaving the EWES entirely alone, unless they are MAID- ENS. The best cutting sheep are from sixty to seventy pounds in weight. The skin should be dry. Leave the oily skinned ones alone as they will eat TOUGH. See that they are mod- erately lean by noting the shoulder meat show- ing through the skin, and also that the meat of the leg outwards can be seen through the skin extending well down towards the loin. Cheaper to buy the whole sheep and use all its parts (except the head) then to keep on buying racks, racks, racks. The butcher is going to cut those racks LONG, and you have to cut off two or three inches, before you can send them to the broiler, and the chops then come very expen- sive. The loin chops which are infinitely the best should be used with the neck chop, one of each, thus making the pair of chops usually called for, the trimmed bone of the neck one carrying the frill and a croquette tip stuck into the loin one. In cutting up the sheep, split it straight through the spinal column, then sep- arate the quarters, cut off the legs close to the pin bone. The loin will yield three half pound trimmed chump chops, and ten six ounce trimmed loin chops. With the forequaiter, lift off the shoulder, cut off the breast, then cut off the scrag with the first two bones of the rack adhering; you now have eleven neck chops to each quarter, or forty-eight chops to the sheep, two legs and two shoulders for joints, the breasts and scrags for the multitude of en- trees and the helps hall. BOILED LEG OF MUTTON Cut off the shank bone, put to boil in cold water with salt whole carrots and white turnips; when done, take up, cut the vegetables into finger sizes; make a white sauce from the stock, adding capers and caper vinegar; serve in portions with the sauce at ends of dish, using the vege- tables as a garnish. ROAST LEG OF MUTTON Cut off the shank bone, rub with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, roast till done with frequent basting, take up, pour off surplus fat from the pan, add a little flour to ihe remaining gravy, moisten with stock to make a sauce, strain, add capers and caper vinegar, or let it remain plain and serve with each portion some red currant jelly separate. BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON Cut off the shank bone, put the leg into a brasiere with some fat bacon trimmings, onions, carrots, bay leaves, bunch of sweet herbs, whole peppers and allspice, moisten with mutton stock, place on the lid, then put the whole into a hot oven, cook till done and glazy, take up, then reduce the braise to half glaze, strain, skim; serve with the portions and red currant jelly separ- ate; or you may garnish it with glazed balls of carrot and turnip, also some glazed small onions. BRAISED STUFFED LEG OF MUTTON Bone the leg, and where the bone was, insert a filling composed of minced mushrooms, pars- ley, shallots, grated ham, little grated lemon rind, seasoning of salt, pepper and nutmeg, mix these well, then work in some forcemeat, sew up the openings, place the stuffed leg into a brasiere with carrots, turnips, celery, clove of crushed garlic, whole cloves and mace, moisten with stock, braise and glaze; when done, take up, and reduce the braise, strain and skim it, add it to a Ve'loute' sauce containing capers; serve with a stuffed tomato at ends of dish, with the sauce poured around. BRAISED LARDED LEG OF MUTTON- - Bone and stuff the leg of mutton as in the preceding recipe, then lard the outside with seasoned strips of bacon, place in brasiere with carrot, turnip, onion, celery, bunch of sweet herbs, cloves and mace, moisten with stock, braise and glaze, take up when done, reduce the re- maining braise, strain and skim it; serve with onion pure'e at one end of the dish, potato cro- quette at the other, and send the sauce to table separate. BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON, WITH BEANS Cut off the shank, insert six cloves of garlic into the leg at different places, braise with vege- tables and spices, take up when done, then re- duce, strain and skim the braise. Meanwhile boil some navy beans; when done, drain, and mix them into a sauce of brown onion pure'e; serve the portions of mutton on top of a spoon- ful of the sauced beans, pour a little of the THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. m braise around and garnish with a few Parisi- GLAZED BREAST OF MUTTON Lean enne potatoes. breasts of mutton boiled till tender in seasoned BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON WITH VEGE- br tb ' taken . U P and boned ' ! ben P ress f tiU TABLES-Bone the leg, season it inside with Cold ' Cut ! n ^ ces ' seasoned with salt and pep- salt, pepper, nutmeg and thyme, sew up, braise P er ' saut<5 m butter then place in hot demi- with vegetables and spices, take up when done, glaze; Serve g arnished Wlth sma11 lazed OQ1ODS - reduce, strain and skim the braise; serve garn- FRIED BREAST OF MUTTON-Breasts of ished with glazed young carrots, - small whole mutton boiled tender in seasoned stock, taken new turnips, flowerets of caulifflower, green U P- boned - Passed, cut in shapes, dipped in peas, points of asparagus, small new potatoes, beaten e gg- rolled in fresh breadcrumbs, ar- quartered artichoke bottoms, a macedoine or ran g ed in a buttered baking pan, sprinkle with jardiniere, stringless French beans (haricots melted butter - browned and frothed in a sharp verts), flageolet beans, new lima beans, stuffed oven; served surrounded with tomato sauce, cucumber, baked tomatoes, etc.. etc. If when BROILED BREASTS OF MUTTON Lean using any of the moistened garnishes by them- breasts of mutton steamed long enough to draw selves, place it on the bill of fare as Braised the bones, taken up, skin scored, a seasoning of leg of mutton with such and such garnish. powdered thyme, salt and pepper then rubbed ROLLED SHOULDER OF MUTTON OYS- in - di PP ed in beaten egg, then in fresh bread TER SAUCE-Bone the shoulder; where the crumbs; placed two whole breasts at a time in bone was. spread with oyster croquette mix- wire hinged broiler, broiled, basted with butter; ture,- roll up tight, tie closely with string, when mcelv browned, served in two-inch wide place it in a steamer and steam till done; serve stri P s with piquante sauce under the meat, in portions with white oyster sauce; or if after it Tbis dish is wel1 appreciated at breakfast or has been steamed two-thirds done, take it up and luncheon. finish cooking in a sharp oven, take out when HARICOT OF MUTTON Lean breasts of mut- of a deep fawn color and serve it with brown ton in strips seasoned with salt and pepper, oyster sauce. fried quickly a light brown, taken up into a BOILED MUTTON WITH TURNIPS-Use sau ' oir ' s P rinkled wel1 with flour - f aken to ' either the leg or the shoulder, boil it medium gether moistened with seasoned broth, brought done in salted water with a few root vegetables; to the bci1 and skimmed; column cut slices of serve portions on a bed of mashed turnips, with r Ot ***U<* *& in butter with a htt e caper sauce around the base. su S ar ' drained - added to the meat - the whole then simmered till half an hour before done, STUFFED BREAST OF MUTTON, SAUCE small balls of raw potatoes then added with ROBERT Lean breast of mutton, pocket small saute'ed onions, finish cooking, season with made the entire length between the meat and salt and p aprika; serve d with the vegetables as rib bones, filled with a stuffing made of sausage a arn i s h meat mixed with minced onions, parsley, mush- CURRY OF MUTTON WITH RICE - Lean rooms and a few fresh breadcrumbs, sew up the breastj . Q mmton J Q stf . seasoned with salti opening, steam till done; serve m portions with fubbed w - th curry powd ^ gaut(ed whh buttef a light brown color; taken up into a sautoir, BREAST OF MUTTON WITH TURNIPS- spri nkled and well shook with flour and little Lean breasts of mutton boiled tender in sea- more curry powder> moistened with seasoned soned broth; when done, bones removed, white broth> brought to the boil, skimmed, pressed till cold and firm, then cut in strips, ring3 of saute - ed onions then added, simmered breaded, fried; served on a bed of mashed tur- and skimmed till done ; serve within a border of nips with gravy round the base. dry boiled rice ROLLED STUFFED BREAST OF MUTTON IRISH STEW Lean breasts of mutton cut in Broad cut lean breasts of mutton, boned, strips, blanched, rinsed, put back into a clean spread with veal or chicken forcemeat, rolled, sautoir with balls or column cut slices of root tied with twine, baked slowly in roast mutton vegetables, moisten with white stock, simmer gravy; served garnished with a jardiniere of an d skim; when nearly done, balls of raw pota- vegetables. toes ad ded; finish cooking, thicken with flour BRAISED BREAST OF MUTTON, ITALIAN and butter, season with salt and pepper; serve SAUCE Breasts of mutton simmered in sea- sprinkled with chopped parsley, soned broth till the bones are easily removed, RAGOUT OF MUTTON WITH TOMATOES then press till cold, cut in triangular pieces, Lean breasts of mutton in strips, fried a light braise them in the reduced stock they were brown with butter and shallots, taken up into a simmered in, then take up and strain the braise sautoir, sprinkled and shook well with flour, into a brown Italian sauce, which serve with moistened with mutton gravy, simmered and the portions. skimmed, seasoned with salt, pepper and pap- 112 rika; served garnished with a stuffed tomato at one end, and balls of glazed turnips at the other. RISSOLES OF MUTTON, SAUCE HOLLAN- DAISE Cold pieces of stewed mutton free of bones, minced finely, seasoned with salt chopped parsley, paprika, thyme and mace, mixed into one- third of its bulk of fresh mashed potatoes; when thoroughly mixed, allow to be- come quite cold, then form into finger lengths like sausages, double bread, fry; serve with Hollandaise sauce. CASSEROLES OF MUTTON Make a stiff po- tato croquette mixture, shape pieces of it like a patty, double bread and fry; now cut a lid scoop out the inside, thus leaving a case, fill the interior with mutton mince of the preceding recipe (heated), put on the lid, keep them hot; with the potatoes you scooped out, form into Duchesse potatoes and use as a garnish. HASHED MUTTON WITH PEPPERS Cold breasts of mutton from any of the forgoing recipes, cut small in dice shape, saute'ed with minced onion, moistened with some Espagnole sauce. Green peppers, tops cut off, insides scooped out, double blanched, drained, filled with the mince, graduated, slowly baked and basted till of a nice brown color; served with a rich tomato sauce poured around. BREADED MUTTON CHOP WITH BEANS PUREE Best neck chops seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped in beaten egg, then bread- crumbs, fried medium done with butter; navy beans boiled, drained, rubbed through a tamis, little Bechamel sauce added, used as a bed on which to lay the chops; served with a demi-glaze around the base. MUTTON CHOPS SAUTES, SAUCE SOU- BISE Best neck chops trimmed, seasoned with salt and paprika, sauteed with butter and minced shallot; served on a bed of onion puree mixed with Ve'loute' sauce, garnished with fancy crofltons. MUTTON CHOP WITH POTATO BORDER Best neck chops trimmed, fried a golden brown in butter, fresh mashed potatoes mixed with a little chopped parsley forced through a bag and tube around the dish, chop in centre with maitre d'hotel butter spread on it. BREADED MUTTON CHOP WITH MUSH ROOM PUREE Best neck chops trimmed, seasoned with salt and paprika, breaded, fried with butter; mushrooms stewed in Ve'loute' sauce till soft, then rubbed through sieve; chop served resting on fancy shape of buttered toast with the pure'e around. MUTTON CHOPS. PROVENCE STYLE Trimmed neck chops sauteed half done with butter, equal parts of onion and mushroom purees with a Savor of garlic and a little THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. chopped parsley, brought to the boil, thickened with egg yolks, stirred till of a thick paste; this spread on one side of the chop, arranged in a buttered baking pan, sprinkled with Par- mesan cheese, finished in a quick oven; served with a brown sauce poured around. MUTTON CHOP WITH GLAZED NEW CAR- ROTS Best neck chops trimmed, seasoned and broiled medium done; new carrots trimmed, blanched, then sauteed till tender with butter and a little sugar, taken up, drained, then tossed in maitre d'hotel sauce; served as a garnish to the chop. (Plain broiled chop as in the recipe here given may be served with a garnish of either Bretonne pure'e, stuffed egg plant, stewed okras, haricots verts, macedoine or jardiniere of vegetables, flageolets, green peas, vegetable pure'e, fried parsley, spinach pure'e, mashed potatoes, saute'ed balls of turnip, and simply named on the bill of fare as Mutton chop with such or such garnish, as prepared). MUTTON CHOP WITH TRUFFLES Loin chops trimmed, seasoned, broiled; served with a Madeira sauce containing plenty of sliced truffles. COATED CUTLETS OF MUTTON Trimmed loin chops, quickly saute'ed with butter half done, dipped into a thick sauce containing minced ham and mushrooms, they are then breaded and slowly fried till done; served rest- ing on a fancy crouton, or they may be coated with an onion pure'e and served with a Soubise sauce. MUTTON CHOP, SOUTHERN STYLE- Loin chops trimmed, seasoned, saute'ed till done with butter and minced shallot; served on a fancy croihon garnished with a mold of dry boiled rice, a stuffed baked tomato and some stewed okras. MUTTON CHOP WITH PEAS PUREE Loin chops trimmed and partly saute'ed, then dipped into a thick yellow parsley sauce, breaded, fried; served on a bed of peas pure'e and surrounded with Ve'loute' sauce. BAKED MUTTON CUTLETS WITH APPLES Take the chops of the the neck under the shoulder, place them in a buttered pan with some sliced apples and onions, season with salt and pepper, just cover with a nice clear gravy, place another pan over as a lid, bake about 45 minutes, remove when glazy; serve the chop in centre of dish with apples at one and onions at other side, garnishing the ends of dish with fancy croutons. MUTTON CHOPS FRIED, ITALIAN SAUCE Best neck chops trimmed, spread with a sauce containing minced onions, little garlic, Parme- san cheese and hard boiled egg yolks rubbed through a sieve; when set, double breaded, fried and served with a brown Italian sauce. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. "3 BREADED MUTTON CHOP, SAUCE PERI- a delicate brown; served with tomato sauce GUEUX Best neck chops trimmed, spread poured around, with a thick truffle sauce; when set, double CROUSTADES OF MUTTON WITH POACH- breaded, fried; served with Perigue'ux sauce. MUTTON CUJTLETS FRIED, REFORME GARNISH Loin chops trimmed, seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped in beaten eggs, then in grated ham, again in eggs, then in a mixture of grated ham and fresh breadcrumbs, arranged in buttered baking pan, placed in a medium oven, browned and basted with butter; served with a garnish of shredded ham, slices of carrots and truffles, also rings of whites of hard boiled eggs in a sauce Supreme. MUTTON STEW WITH VEGETABL ES Scrags and lean breasts of mutton cut in neat pieces, seasoned with salt and pepper, saut<5ed a golden color in butter with a few small onions, flour then added to form a roux, moisten with boiling stock, then boil up and skim, season to taste with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a clove of garlic; when half done, cubes of carrot and turnip then added, also some lima beans, sim- mer till done; serve. (Varieties of stew as above may be made by garnishing with rice ED EGG Cold roast mutton cut in small dice, then placed in a sautoir and moistened with a light consomme* and a pint of demi-glaze to each four Ibs. of meat. Reduce it to about half over a medium fire; half a dozen each of green peppers and shallots minced and lightly fried with butter then added to the hash, mix; fill in- to fancy croustades to order, placing on top of each a freshly cooked and trimmed poached egg, garnish with watercress. MUTTON CHOPS WITH BUTTERED CORN Take a rack of mutton, remove the meat from the bone in one piece, trim, cut it up into four ounce cutlets, season with salt and pepper, broil between a wire hinged broiler a golden brown; meanwhile cut corn from hot cooked cobs, season with salt and cream, fill into oval dishes, cover the top with breadcrumbs and sprinkle with melted butter, bake brown quickly; when done, place a chop on the corn, a few Julienne potatoes around the edge, and send to table. timbales and small stuffed tomatoes instead of MUTTON CUTLET SAUTE WITH FINE the vegetables; also instead of the vegetables, HERBS Trimmed chump chops fried with use stewed tomatoes and an extra clove of gar- butter, fried minced shallots, parsley and lie; or using a plain garnish of either green mushrooms, sprinkled over when sending to peas, flageolets, stringless beans, butter beans, table. haricot beans, glazed new carrots, braised MUTTON PIE, ENGLISH STYLE Middle neck chops trimmed and shortened, arranged in a deep pie dish around the sides, the centre filled with balls of potatoes or small new ones; make a rich white sauce from strong mutton stock, season with pepper and salt, chopped stalks of celery, fried egg plant, rice and okras; small white turnips hollowed out, steamed, then filled with a macedoine, jardiniere; green peas, flageolets, etc., potato croquettes, slices of stuffed cucumber, stuffed artichoke bottoms, etc., and named accordingly). REMEMBER ALWAYS THAT IT IS THE STEWS WHICH KEEP DOWN THE KITCHEN parsley and capers, cover the mutton and pota- toes with it plentifully, place on a short crust, egg wash, bake one hour in a medium oven. EXPENSES, AND ARE ALWAYS IN BRAISED BONED LOIN OF MUTTON Take STRONG DEMAND BY THE PATRONS, IF WELL COOKED, SEASONED, AND VERY NEATLY GARNISHED; IT THEN APPEALS TO THE EYE AND ITS SAVORI- NESS TO THE PALATE. DO NOT LET YOUR VEGETABLE OR FRY COOK JUST DISH IT OUT ON TO THE PLATTER WITH A LADLE SIMPLY BECAUSE IT IS A STEW; PLACE THE MEAT NEATLY ON A DISH, THEN GARNISH IT WITH CARE. HASHED MUTTON IN PEPPERS Four ibs. of cold cooked mutton cut in small dice, four medium sized onions minced and lightly fried with butter, then added to the mutton, mix, a loin of mutton and remove the chine bone, (this can be done without injuring the meat by loosening the tenderloin first); where the bone was, fill with a stiff forcemeat, roll over the flap and tie with twine; arrange in a brasiere with vegetables and spices, moisten with stock enough to just cover the mutton, braise and baste till done and glazy; serve in portions with a garnish either of green peas, macedoine, jard- inere, asparagus tips, new carrots, stringless beans, small glazed turnips, stuffed and glazed cucumbers, flowerets of cauliflower, etc It should be noted that glaze should be over and around slightly the meat portion, and the veg- etable garnish should be moistened with either a Veloute, Bechamel or Allemande sauce. then moisten with a little Espagnole sauce, BRAISED MUTTON CHOPS, GARNISHED season to taste, then bring to a simmer. Two Racks of mutton trimmed, chine bone loosened dozen medium sized green peppers, tops cut off, and the yellow gristle that runs the full length seeded, double blanched, then filled with the of the chine removed, arranged in the brasiere hash; gratinate the tops, bake in a slow oven to with carrot, onion, celery, parsley, whole cloves THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. and mace, moistened with stock just enough to cover, braised and basted till done and glazy, taken up, the braise strained and skimmed; served in chops, each chop rolled in the glaze; served garnished with small stuffed tomatoes, Brussels sprouts, glazed small onions, flageo- lets, green peas, asparagus tips, sauerkraut, new carrots or turnips, potato quenelles and stewed prunes (German style), potato cro- quettes, Sofibise puree", jardiniere or a mace- doine of vegetables. BROILED MUTTON CHOPS, GARNISHED Racks of mutton trimmed, chine bone and gristle removed, cut into cutlets, seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped into melted butter, broiled medium done of a golden color; served on a triangle of toast, garnished with either brown Italian, tomato, Provenpale, Poivrade, piquante. shallot or fines-herbes sauces, or with mashed potatoes in shapes, mashed turnips, spinach puree", endive puree", Soflbise puree", Bretonne beans puree", jardiniere, macedoine, asparagus tips, Brussels sprouts sautee"s. green peas, Julienne vegetables in Allemande sauce, small new potatoes boiled, then moistened with maitre d'hotel butter, pure6 of artichoke, chip- olata garnish, French beans (haricots verts), new lima beans, button mushrooms sautees, stuffed olives. NASTURTIUM Name of a plant whose seeds are extensively used as a substitute for pickled capers. NAVARIN A French word given to a brown mutton stew with vegetables, the same as our "haricot of mutton." NESSELRODE Name given to an iced pud- ding, named after a Russian statesman, com- posed of a puree" of chestnuts, whipped cream, glazed fruits, a flavoring of maraschino, mixed and frozen. NEUFCHATEL Name of a cream curd cheese imported from Switzerland. But most of that used in hotel life is made in our own dairies and equally as good as the imported. NIVERNAISE Name given to a garnish of Julienne vegetables mixed in Allemande sauce. NOISETTE French name for nut. Sometimes seen on "bills of fare" as "Noisettes of mut- ton", "Noisettes d'agneau (nuts of lamb)", "Noisettes de veau (nuts of veal)". To prepare thisldish I will quote LEON CIEUX, a Parisian chef: "NOISETTES OF LAMB, A LA MAIN- TENON Take the two fillets and small fil- lets (filets mignons) from a saddle of lamb, take out the nerves, trim them, and divide each fillet into six parts and the small fillets into three parts, beat them, season with salt and pepper, saute" them quickly on both sides with clear batter; as soon as sauteed, put in a good Peri- gorde sauce, this stops the wasting and pre- vents the meat from giving up its gravy. Place each noisette of lamb on a crust of breadcrumb passed through butter and the shape of the noisette; arrange in a crown on the dish, cover each noisette with a Soflbise a la Bechamel. Powder with grated Parmesan cheese, moist- ened with melted butter, glazed in a hot oven; pour in the middle of the dish some Perigord sauce, put on each noisettte a fine slice of truffle and serve hot, the cooking must be quick. This recipe is for twelve persons." I will here quote the author of the EPICUR- EAN, Charles Ranhofer. "NOISETTES OF MUTTON, AU MADERE Cut eight chops of four ounces each from two racks of mutton. Remove the noix (centre of chop), beat them lightly, trim all to the same size, season with salt and pepper. Heat four ounces of butter in a frying pan, when it is very hot add to it the noix, saute them over a quick fire, taking care to turn them when they have a good color, let them cook several minutes more, arrange them on crofi tons of bread fried in butter and of the same size as the noix. Dry out the butter from the pan, add half a gill of Madeira, cook it down, add a little brown sauce, cook it down again until it is a light sauce, pass through the strainer and pour on the noix." NOODLES A stiff paste made with sifted flour and yolks of eggs, then rolled out very thin in sheets, place several sheets one on another, then with a sharp knife cut in strips; for soups or to be used for all purposes in place of mac- aroni; for all the recipes given for macaroni, noodles may be substituted; from the sheets may be stamped out fancy shapes for decorating raised pies, etc. NOYEAU Name of a very fine liqueur prepared from the kernels of fruit stones, almonds, brandy, gin, flavoring extracts and syrup. NUTMEG The kernel of the fruit of the nnt- meg tree. The fruit itself is in size and shape that of a small pear, which on ripening, bursts, exposing its kernel covered with a netting; this netting is known as mace, the kernel itself as nutmeg; it is used as a flavoring to soups, sauces, puddings, custards, etc. The nutmegs from PENANG are considered of most com- mercial value. OATMEAL As the word implies it is the meal of oats; the oat grains are skinned, dried, then ground in a mill and placed into commerce as coarse and fine oatmeal. This is then used to make in conjunction with wheat flour, cakes, biscuits, bread, gruel, drinks, mush, puddings, thickening soups, etc., etc. A mistake is there- fore made when writing "bills of fare" to say "oatmeal porridge" unless you use the meal; and seldom is the meal used. It is customary nowadays to use rolled oats, flaked oats, and the different names given by manufacturers, THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 115 such as H. O., Quaker oats, etc., which are all medium oven and cooked till tender. It is rolled and not meal. Groats is the proper name served as a family dish by placing the vegetables for the dried oat grains which are neither at the bottom of a platter as a garnish to the crushed or ground. three meats, the sausages on top of the vege. OKRA-Name of an American vegetable chiefly tables - and the broth P oured over the whole - grown in the South; of a seed pod shape like OMELET Slightly beaten eggs seasoned with the long pepper. It is preserved and canned, salt and a little melted butter so as to prevent this being generally used in making gumbo '* from sticking to the pan in cooking; see that soups when the fresh is not obtainable. The the P an is free from anv Stick 7 substance on the fresh is trimmed at both ends, boiled in salted mside - bottom and flange; place in a little melted boiling water till tender, taken up and drained, butter - let i4 8 et hot ( not burnt), pour in a ladle seasoned with salt, pepper and melted butter and of e gg s - shuffle a und till nearly set, then take served as a vegetable, or used as a garnish, or in the handle in the left hand, depress the pan, conjunction with other vegetables as a garnish. then with the right hand knock the handle near The Creoles like it slippery, and after trimming the pan.and the omelet will roll up from the furth- it they place it in a sautoir with just enough est end - thus forming a roll with pointed ends, water to moisten, cover with oiled paper, place hold to the fire for a moment and the centre on the lid and stew it till tendered muscilag- wil1 P uff U P- tnm on to a P la er, garnish one inous, then it is further seasoned with olive oil, end with a s P"g of cris P cress or parsley and salt, pepper and a little minced green or red send the P lain omelet to the table at once, peppers Okras are esteemed slewed with I HAVE SAID POUR A LADLE OF EGGS, tomatoes, keeping the okras whole; also by tak- BECAUSE I HAVE FOUND THAT THE ing peeled raw tomatoes and okras, cutting ORDERS ARE SERVED MORE EQUAL them both into quarters, then stewing with BY ITS USE - HAVE A LADLE MADE butter, pepper and salt; also the whole okras THAT WILL HOLD EQUAL TO THREE trimmed, then stewed tender in a rich tomato LIGHTLY BEATEN EGGS. ONE LADLE- sauce; also tipped at both ends, breaded and FUL WILL BE FOUND THE RIGHT fried, like egg plant. QUANTITY PER PERSON. OKR A SALAD-Okras trimmed and boiled in boil- OMELET WITH BACON -(Plain or with Pi- ing salted water, then drained and cooled; strip- J uante sauce >- Cut the bacon into small dice, ped endive washed and crisp arranged on dish, r j, * 1 ? wel1 done ' P f ur off the fat - P ur in . a the okras quartered and laid on top, the whole ladle f e ^ s ' m ' x and form; served Wlth a S P"S sprinkled with a French salad dressing contain- f S reen ' r Wlth P '1 uant e sauce at the ends, ing chopped chives. OMELET WITH VEAL KIDNEYS-Roasted ^ T T , rT , , kidneys cut in dice and made hot in a little OLIVES-The fruit of the ohve tree picked demi . glaze with chopped parslev> enclose the green prepared and salted, then packed into mixture whhin thce fry in butter for a ew minutes, pour off Spanish and Italian Olive oil is prepared from the butter add a ladle of eggs, form and serve the ripe fruit. Olives are used as an appetizer, Wlth a httle Itahan Sauce at ttle Sldes ' either plain or stoned and stuffed; as a decor- OMELET WITH CHEESE Mix grated cheese ative to salads, as a flavoring to sauces, as an with the beaten eggs in proportion of one-third addition to garnitures, etc. cheese to two-thirds eggs, form the omelet; when placed on the serving dish sprinkle a lit- OLLA PODRIDA-One of the national dishes of ^ ^ cheese OQ of the F omelet and Spam; a rich soup stew, made in the style of a brown off ickl in Qven or under a salaman . pepper-pot. A large earthernware pot into der ctc^kXtcSrt' ^etaS 2SJS OMELET WITH CHICKEN LIVERS-BUnch cabbage and endive, a piece of flank of beef, a the livers - then cut in dice - fr ? them U 8 htl 7 fowl, a piece of streaky bacon and sausages. with butter ' minced shallot s and mushrooms The sausages are made of equal quantities of for ten minutes, season with salt, pepper and minced lean and fat pork, seasoned with garlic chopped parsley, enclose a spoonful within the and red pepper; when mixed it is macerated in omelet while * rmin g: s ved with Hanover dry sherry wine for four days till it has ab- sauce at tbe Sldes " sorbed all it can, it is then filled into sausage OMELET WITH CHIPPED BEEF Scald, casings, tied in links, hung till dry in a cool air. drain and mince the dried beef, mix it with the The contents of the pot are seasoned with salt eggs, form the omelet; serve with cream sauce and pepper, moistened with water, placed in poured around. n6 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. OMELET WITH HAM Cooked minced ham moistened with Madeira sauce enclosed within the omelet. 2. Raw minced ham with a little minced shallot and parsley fried till done, ladle of eggs poured in, formed and served. 3, Minced fried ham beaten up with the eggs, poured into the omelet pan, formed and served. OMELET WITH LAMB KIDNEYS Cut the kidneys into small dice and fry them with minced shallots in butter for three minutes, add a little Madeira sauce and chopped parsley, enclose a spoonful within the omelet while forming; serve with Madeira sauce poured around. 2. Stew the kidneys in a sherry wine flavored brown sauce, season well with red pepper or a minced red pepper; when done, strain the sauce on to some unsweetened apple sauce passed through a fine sieve; into the beaten eggs put some finely chopped green mint, enclose a spoonful of kidneys within the omelet while forcing; serve wither of the sweetbreads cut in dice, simmered in _ mush- room sauce, a spoonful enclosed within the omelet white forming; served with mushroom sauce poured around. OMELET WITH MUSHROOMS-If fresh mushrooms, peel them, trim, cut into dice and fry with butter; if canned, cut them in thin slices and fry, drain, then mix them into Madeira sauce; enclose a spoonful within the . , - , , , . omelet; serve with a spoonful of mushrooms m shrimps, cut in halves, mix with some finely chopped green peppers, put them into a Vel- oute sauce containing some lobster butter, sim- mer for five minutes, enclose a spoonful within the omelet, turn on to the serving dish, place two whole shrimps on top, and pour some of the sauce around. OMELET WITH FINE HERBS Beat up with the eggs some finely mmced shallots, thyme marjoram, chervil, chives and parsley season with sa It and pepper form the omelet, and serve plain or with fine herbs sauce poured around SPANISH OMELET-Finely shred onions, minced green peppers minced mushrooms, solid tomatoes with the juice and seeds ex- pressed, cut in smal pieces, the whole fried with butter for five minutes, then add tomato sauce, season with salt and pepper, reduce till thick, enclose a spoonful within the omelet, tarn on to the serving dish, garnish the top with fancy strips of pimentoes and place a spoonful of the mixture at each end of the omelet. OMELET WITH SPINACH Beat some puree* of spinach with the eggs, season with salt and pepper, form and serve. OMELET WITH PARSLEY Mix some finely chopped parsley with the beaten eggs, season with salt and pepper, form and serve plain or with Veloute sauce at the sides. OMELET WITH TOMATOES Stew fresh or canned tomatoes with a little butter, sugar, salt and pepper till of a thick pulp, enclose a spoonful within the omelet; serve with tomato sauce poured around. OMELET WITH TOMATOED RICE Take some boiled rice grains and moisten them with a good tomato pure6i enclose some within the omelet; serve with tomato puree" poured around. QMELET WITH OYSTERS -Scald the oys- , . . J ter *' **" m ^ uarters ' P lace them , into a ichthick > er sauce ' elose a spoonful with- whole and sprinkle with QMELET WITR FRENCH O R SMALL ^^^ _ ._ . * EE f PEAS-Simmer some peas in reduced Veloute sauce with a little mmced green mint, tiu thick> ^^ sQme whhin the ^^ ^ on to the serving dish, garnish each end with more o f t h e peas and t h e sides with cream sauce. ,,,,,.,,,,, TTTTTII Tr/-r- T>T A-MT /- * *u OMELET WITH EGG PLANT-Lut the egg plant into dice, fry it with butter, when done, enclose wit macedome of vegetables (or ^canned ones) boil till tender, drain, moisten Wlth a llttle dean-glaze or sauce Supreme, en- close within the omelet turn on to the serving d ' sh - Decorate the top of omelet with more of the vegetables and pour some of the sauce around mande endosewithin the omele ^ OQ serv - d - sh decorate and se K rve Allemande P sauce at the within the omeleti turned on to servi dish Q{ omelet decorated with ali of B stuffed * OMELET WITH ONIONS- Fry some thin shces of onions with a clove of garlic in butter, enclose within the omelet; serve with Souubise sauce at the sides - OMELET WITH MINCED CHICKEN Take minced cooked chicken, moisten it with Vel- THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. "7 oute sauce, make hot, enclose within the ome- within the omelet; served with some Hollan- let; serve with Veloute sauce at the sides. daise sauce at the sides. CREOLE OMELET-Chopped green peppers, OMELET WITH TURKEY LIVERS-Braised onions, garlic, okras and a little boiled rice, turke r livers cut in scall P s and nio.stened made hot in a thick tomato sauce, enclosed with fine herbs sauce - enclosed within the within the omelet; served with a spoonful of omelet : served Wlth more o the sauce at the the mixture at the sides. Q ^ ANCH OVIES-Filleted an- ALGERIENNE OMELET-Rissoto moistened chovies cut in shredSi moiste oed with Aurora and reheated with tomato puiee. enclosed with- Of Genevoise sauceSi enclosed within the ome- in the omelet; served with tomato puree" at the , et; seryed whh tfae sauce used at tfae sides> the top of the omelet to be garnished with strips of OMELET WITH TRUFFLES Slices of truf. the anchovies in lattice work form, fles moistened with truffle sauce, enclosed with- OMELET WITH FOIE-GRAS Foie-gras cot in the omelet; served with truffle sauce at the in dice with a little chopped truffle peelings, sides. moistened with Madeira sauce, enclosed with- OMELET WITH PUREE OF GAME A rich in the omelet; served with Madeira sauce at the game pure is enclosed within the omelet; sides, the top of the omelet to be decorated served with game sauce at the sides. with a slice each of foie-gras and truffle. IKDIAN OMELET Minced onion lightly fried OMELET CHIPOLATA A spoonful of chipo- then mixed with the beaten eggs, adding a lata garnish (see garnishes), enclosed within seasoning of curry powder and a spoonful of the omelet; served with Madeira sauce at the thick cream, boiled rice enclosed within the sides, the ends of the omelet to be garnished omelet; served with curry sauce at the sides. with Parisienne potatoes. OMELET WITH CHICKEN PUREE A rich OMELET WITH JELLY With the omelet puree" of chicken enclosed within the omelet; mixture add a spoonful of cream and a very served with Veloutfe sauce at the sides. little sugar; before starting to roll the omelet, MILANAISE OMELET Boiled macaroni s P read with J 611 ?- then ro11 h U P ; when turned chopped fine, mixed with Parmesan cheese and on the servin g dish - dust with Powdered sugar, a spoonful of tomato puree", enclosed within the mark the to P in latfcice work st y le with a red hot omelet; served with Milanaise sauce at the wire - P lace a little more J 611 ? at the sides and sides. serve - OMELET WITH SHRIMP PASTE-Omelet OMELET WITH MERINGUE-Little cream spread with shrimp paste just before forming; and su g ar mixed with the beaten *%%* before served with shrimp sauce at the sides. rolling, spread with jam. then form; when on the SHRIMP OMELET-Chopped shrimps in Au- serving dish, spread with meringue, decorate rora sauce enclosed within the omelet, turned the meri g ue W1 ' h P' nt f kn ' fe - P lace 1Q oven on to the serving dish, the top decorated with tlU f a dehcate fawQ C lor and Serve at nCe ' coiled shrimps; served with Aurora sauce at the OMELET WITH CUSTARD CREAM Little sides. cream and sugar mixed with the beaten eggs, a OMELET WITH SCALLOPS-Scallops blanched spoonful of rich custard cream enclosed within then fried with butter, cut in dice, moistened the omelet - turned on to the serving dish; served with Bechamel sauce, enclosed within the ome- with a little a P ricot P ure< at the sides - let; served with the top decorated with a whole OMELET WITH MARMALADE Little cream iried scallop, Bechamel sauce at the sides. and sugar mixed with the beaten eggs; before OMELET FINANCIERS A spoonful of finan- rolling, spread with fruit marmalade, form, ciere garnish enclosed within the omelet; served P^ce on serving dish, dust with powdered vith-some more of the garnish at the sides. sugar, then place in hot oven to glaze, or glaze OMELET WITH CALF'S HEAD Useful to with a salamander. use up the remains of entree "Calf's head, tur- OMELET WITH RUM Little cream and sugar tie style". Cut the meat small, enclose within the mixed with the beaten eggs, omelet formed, omelet; served with more of the garnish at the turned on to the serving dish, dusted with sides. powdered sugar, marked with a red hot wire, OMELET WITH CAPON Cold capon cut in rum made warm and poured around the omelet; dice and moistened with Veloutfe sauce, enclosed then set on fire - either at the entrance to the within the omelet; served with Supreme sauce dining room or on the table at the request of at the sides. the guest. OMELET WTTH CALF'S BRAINS Scalded OMELET SOUFFLE One teaspoonful of sugar and trimmed calf's brains cut in dice and to each egg, yolks and whites whipped separ- moistened with Hollandaise sauce, enclosed ately, the sugar and a teaspoonful of cream u8 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. with the yolks, then all stirred together, poured GLAZED ONIONS Peeled onions of a uniform into oval dish or pan, baked partly on top of size arranged in a shallow sautoir, seasoned the range, then finished in oven; when nicely with salt, pepper and sugar, slightly moistened puffed, dust with powdered sugar, and glaze with stock, covered with a sheet of buttered with a salamander; the omelet mixture may be paper, simmered till done and brown, and the flavored with most any liqueur or cordial. liquor to a glaze. ONIONS FRIED Large sized onions peeled, ONION PUREE Onions peeled, blanched, cut in fairly thick slices, the rings then separ- drained, chopped, placed in a sautoir with but- ated, seasoned with salt, dipped in milk, then ter and lightly fried without color, flour then shaken up with flour till coated, fried till done added to form a roux, moisten with white or in very hot deep fat like French fried potatoes; brown stock according to whether it is to be when done, drained, sprinkled with salt; served served with boiled or roast meat, simmer till plain or as a garnish. very tender, season with salt and a little sugar, ONIONS FRIED Thinly sliced onions fried then rub the whole through a tamis. with butter, bacon fat, beef dripping, etc., till PICKLED ONIONS Small button onions peeled, well done and brown, surplus fat then poured placed in crocks, boiling brine poured over off; used as a garnish to steaks. them, allowed to stand for 24 hours, brine then ONIONS IN CREAM SAUCE Small onions drained off, onions then covered with scalding peeled, boiled in salted water till tender, taken ho * ( n t boiling) cider vinegar spiced to taste up and drained, then put into cream sauce; used with mace - chilies, whole peppers and a little as a vegetable. horseradish. BOILED ONIONS Medium sized onions peeled, ONION VINEGAR Two quarts of white wine boiled well done in salted water, taken up and vinegar, one dessert spoonful of salt, two dessert well drained, kept very hot; served with a spoon- spoonfuls of granulated sugar, two pounds of ful of melted butter poured over them; used as peeled Spanish onions; grate the onions, mix vegetable. them with the sugar and salt, allow to macerate CREAMED ONIONS Small button onions for three hours, then pour over the vinegar; fill peeled, steamed till tender, drained, then put f fuit Jars % full, screw the lid on, shake well into a Poulette sauce; served as a garnish or every day for a couple of weeks, then strain vegetable. ff through cheese cloth, fill into bottles and BAKED ONIONS STUFFED Large onions cork Ii 8 ht : tnis is very useful when a delicate peeled, steamed till nearly done, centres re- ion flavor is desired with mayonnaise, salads, moved in ONE PIECE which can be used etc - the following day for the recipe preceding, the ONION SALAD Take either the Bermuda or aperture filled with sausage meat, baked and Spanish onion, peel, slice in rings % of an basted till brown and glazy; served with a inch thick - steam tiu half cooked, let become little meat gravy poured around. verv cold : serve on ^ttuce leaves with Ravigote ONIONS ON TOAST Onions steamed till very sauce - well done, then mashed through a colander or ONION SOUP WITH CRUSTS-Make a thin tamis, seasoned, simmered with meat gravy cream of chicken soup, thinly slice half a pound fancy cut slices of toast then spread thickly of onions to each g allon of SOU P- f T them with with the onions and served very hot, (a good butter to a & olden color ' then add them to the thing for a cold on the chest) SOU P and simmer for ten minutes; served with STEWED ONIONS-Onions cut in quarters, a small unsweetened rusk to each plate, steamed till half done, then simmered in a pars- PUREE OF BERMUDA ONIONS-Bermuda ley butter sauce till done; served as a vegetable. onions H g htl y fried with butter and little Su 8 ar - BRAISED ONIONS Medium sized onions flour added to form a roux - moi stened with peeled, blanched, drained, arranged in a pan chicken stock - simmered till done, the whole or brasiere, baked and basted with slices of then rubbed through a tamis, and added to % bacon and its fat till brown and glazy; served of . its bulk of cream or cream sauce; served as a garnish or vegetable. Wlth croutons. ONION SAUCE -Well boiled onions mashed A variation of the above recipe is, after it is through a tamis, slightly moistened with sauce P assed throu g h the tamis, place it back on made from mutton stock; to be served with the ran S e - brm S to the boil - then add a rich boiled mutton liaison of egg yolks and cream, finish with a ONION SAUCE-Onions peeled and parboiled Httle Very finely ch Pped parsley> then cut up small and blanched again, then ONION SOUP WITH CHEESE CANAPES- allowed to simmer in a white sauce if to be A cream soup made of white stock with plenty served with boiled meat, and in a brown sauce of minced onions boiled in it till very tender, if to be served with roast or braised meat. adding a little chopped parsley; fancy cut slices THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 119 of toast spread with cheese and melted on in ORANGE PIE One dozen sound oranges cut into thin slices, seeds and cores removed, cov- ered with six quarts of water, allowed to soak for 24 hours, then put all on to boil; boil slowly for three hours, then add seven pounds of granulated sugar, and boil till clear, pour off into a crock, allow to set, and you then have the filling. Line pie plates with puff paste trimmings, making a raised edge, spread well with the filling, bake; when done, spread with an orange flavored custard, on it pipe a fancy meringue, brown quickly; serve. This is one of the most delicious pies it is possible to make. ORANGE MARMALADE 24 oranges, 8 lem- ons; oranges peeled and the pith removed, the peel then boiled till tender, about three hours, changing the water three times, the first time it is put on in cold water, the chang- ing time in boiling water; when tender, drain, shred very fine; meanwhile extract every drop of juice from all the oranges and lemons, meas- ure it, then add one-fourth of its bulk of clear water, measure it again, and to every pint, add one and a half pounds of granulated sugar, then the shredded rinds, bring to the boil, skim, then continue boiling till thick enough to set. the oven, one in each plate, the soup poured over it and sent to table. BROWN ONION PUREE Fried onions, flour added to form a roux and browned, moistened with roast veal gravy and stock, the whole then rubbed through a tamis; served with croutons. ONION PUREE WITH FISH QUENELLES Make the white "Pure< of Bermuda onions" of a preceding recipe, and serve with quenelles of fish that may be on hand. BUTTON ONION SOUP WITH PEAS A cream of chicken soup with plenty of very small button onions boiled in it, also fresh or canned green peas. OPOSSUM A Southern animal found in hollow trees, hunted for by trained dogs, is killed, scalded, scraped, split, skin scored like a suckling pig, arranged in a pan surrounded with peeled and split sweet potatoes, roasted and basted till done; served with the potatoes and corn bread. ORANGE JAM Four pounds of oranges, one pound of lemons, four pounds of sugar, one pound of butter, 32 yolks and 4 whole eggs. The fruit grated, the juice extracted, the juice, sugar and grated rinds then boiled together, butter melted and beaten up with the yolks and eggs, added to the boiling juice, constantly stirring till of a jam consistency; used for pie filling, layer cake spreading, filling darioles, cheesecakes, patty-pan tarts, etc., etc. BAKED ORANGE PUDDING Two pounds of stale sponge cake; juice of 8, and grated rinds of 2 oranges, i cup of sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 6 beaten eggs, i pint of milk. Boil the milk, pour it to the sponge cake, whip dients, fill into molds, bake; serve with orange sauce. ORANGE FRITTERS Large oranges peeled, pith removed, pulled into quarters, simmered for five minutes in boiling syrup, drained, dipped in frying batter (see batters), fried in hot deep fat, taken up, dusted with powdered sugar; served with claret sauce. COMPOTE OF ORANGES Small oranges (the seedless variety) peeled, pith removed, blanched, drained, blanched again, then simmered in the left over syrup of the preceding recipe, the peel of the oranges boiled tender in two or three waters, then finely shredded and added to . the syrup; when done, allow to become cold; served, an orange decorated on top with the shredded peel, the syrup poured around. CANAPE OF ORANGES Oranges peeled and the pith removed, pulled apart in sections, the sections boiled for a few minutes in syrup, taken up and arranged on fancy shapes of bread that have been fried a golden brown with butter. JELLIED ORANGES Oranges with the stem end cut to form a lid, emptied of their contents with a spoon, the shells then soaked overnight, they are then drained, then half filled with a colored fruit jelly and allowed to set, then filled with another colored fruit jelly, closed, set away in ice till firm; served by cutting in halves or quarters, and arranging on serving dish with the colors alternating. ORANGE SAUCE Roast duck carcasses boiled down with some Espagnole sauce, then strained, orange juice then added to taste for the quantity made, finely shredded and boiled rinds then added. [The natural sauce for roast domestic ducks] . ORANGES WITH RICE Quartered and peeled oranges with the pith and seeds removed, boiled in syrup till tender, the syrup then thickened with corn starch and allowed to sim- mer till clear; when done, add a little maras- chino; to serve, dry boiled rice grains arranged as a border on an oval platter, the rice sprink- led with finely chopped pistachio nuts, the oranges and sauce in the centre, (this is always an acceptable sweet entree). ORANGE TRIFLE Slice of orange-flavored sponge cake spread with marmalade, this spread with custard, the custard piped with whipped cream, the edges sprinkled with finely choppea pistachio nuts. ORTOLAN A very small game bird, a native of lao THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. Southern Europe. Our rice bird does duty for them in a serving casserole, moisten with a rich it here generally. truffle sauce containing plenty of sliced truffles, ORTOLANS IN CROUSTADE The bird bake for ten minutes in a quick oven; serve in plucked and singed, neck and gizzard only of the casserole. the inside removed, season with nutmeg, salt QX-TAIL SOUP-Saw the tails into neat pieces and pepper; large truffles hollowed out, the hal{ inch thick( soak over night in salted water; bird placed in the truffle, arranged in a sautoir, with a large sized column cutter stamp out with bacon over the breasts, moistened with a s i ices of white and yellow turnipi carrot; drain mirepoix and some Madeira wine, cooked about and wipe the pieces o{ ox . tail| then saute - them twenty minutes, taken up and placed in a fancy with the vegetables, add them to a rich brown bread croustade; reduce the sauce in sautoir to stock fl avor ed with sweet herbs and celery, a demi-glaze, remove the bacon, mask with the s i mmer till tails are tender and gelatinous, glaze; serve surrounded with watercress. then thicken the soup with roux, season with ORTOLANS IN CASES Make (or use t h e salt and pepper, port wine and mushroom cat- bought ones) a fancy paste croustade case, line sup. it with foie-gras; ortolans plucked and singed, CLRAR QX . TAIL SOU P-A consomme" of rich feet, beak and skm of head removed truss, poultry and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, place one & flayor Q{ fa fa which ^ jJJJJ and m each lined case cover with a strip of fat bles as fa the di reci finish bacon, roast in moderate oven about 20 mm- flav0 ring of porf wine, utes, remove the bacon; serve with a spoonful of Madeira sauce over the bird. HARICOT OF OX-TAILS Tails separated in BROILED ORTOLANS-Pluck and singe th e their natural J oints - the Iar 8 e end s P Ht - P laced birds, wipe with a damp cloth, remove beak m a dee P sautoir with fat from the stock top- and feet, truss, but do not draw, season with P in 8 s and some sliced onions, fry a nice brown, salt, pepper and nutmeg, wrap in a buttered stock then added to wel1 cover - stewed for paper case, broil over a raked clean space of about three hours ' then taken U P- the stock the grill, in ten minutes the bird will be done; strained and freed from grease, the tails placed serve with the paper, surrounded with water- in another sautoir with slices of braised carrot cress, paper to be removed by waiter at the and turni P- sauce made from the strained guest's request, just as about to be eaten. stock - then P oured over the ta ^ and vegeta- ROAST ORTOLANS-The birds plucked and bles> se / SOD whh salt ' P^per, mushroom cat- singed, wiped, slit made in the side and the SU P * d P ort wme: ser d w ' thm , a ^f f gizzard removed, cut off beak and feet, skin Cashed potatoes, sprinkling the tails with finely the head, which place inside where the gizzard was, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, CURRY OF OX-TAILS Tails separated in their wrap around each a thin slice of bacon, or natural joints, the large end split, lightly fried wrap each in a vine leaf if procurable, roast with onion, then taken up into a sautoir, covered about ten minutes; serve on a fancy cut slice of with a rich curry sauce, simmered till tender; bread fried a delicate brown with butter, pour serve within a border of boiled grains of rice, round a rich Madeira sauce. SAUTfe OF OX-TAILS Tails separated in their BROCHETTE OF ORTOLANS Pluck, singe natural joints, the large end split, seasoned and wipe the birds, remove the gizzard, rub with powdered mixed herbs, rolled in flour, the body with lemon, then roll each one in soft sautee"d a light brown with butter, taken up in- maitre d'hotel butter, then in grated bread to a sautoir, covered with sauce Robert, sim- crumbs (not cracker dust), then thread them on mered till tender; served garnished with a a skewer, broil; serve on toast buttered with braised jardiniere of vegetables, the drippmgs from the broiling, garnish with O X-TONGUE BOILED-Salted ox-tongue, put lemon and watercress. to boil in cold water and CQoked tm tender( FRIED ORTOLANS-The birds plucked and according to size, but generally about three singed, feet and beak removed, gizzards drawn, hours> then take up and skini remov e the bones head skinned and placed where gizzard was, from t h e root and trim off the waste fat, then rubbed with lemon, dipped in maitre d'h6tel keep hot in seasoned broth; to serve, cut in thin butter, then in grated breadcrumbs, then in sliceSi p i ace them overlapping each other down beaten eggs and again in the crumbs, plunged in the centre of the dish, first dipping each slice boiling hot fat, fried ten minutes; served with into a jellied gravy or demi-glaze, then garnish a rich brown Italian sauce. t h e sides with either a pure"e of spinach, flageo- TRUFFLED ORTOLANS Pluck and singe let beans, a macedoine or jardiniere of vegeta- the birds, remove beak, feet and gizzard, skin bles, Brussels sprouts, pieces of cauliflower, the head and place where gizzard was, arrange stringless green beans or asparagus points. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 121 BRAISED FRESH OX-TONGUE Blanch and DRY STEW Same as preceding, no milk and trim a good sized tongue, then place it in a but little oyster liquor. braisiere with slices of carrot, turnip, celery BOX STEW Dry stew of the very largest onions, a few cloves, bay leaf, mace, salt, pep- oysters placed on a slice of buttered toast, then per and a glass of cooking brandy, cover with boiling cream with a little butter poured over good stock, then biaise slowly till tender; when the whole. done, taken up and placed in a sautoir, the BOSTON STEW Simply a milk stew of count braise then strained and skimmed, then mixed oysters, but the oysters on toast as in box stew, with some Madeira sauce and reduced to half INDIAN STEW Box stew, but using equal glaze, this is then poured over the tongue and parts of chicken curry sauce with the cream, kept hot in it; served in thin slices overlapping PHILADELPHIA STEW Very large oysters each other down the centre of dish, covered in their shells placed on a very hot grill; mean- with the glaze, and garnished with small que- time scald and skim some oyster liquor, season nelles or croquettes of potatoes. it with salt, red pepper and butter; when the SMOKED OX-TONGUE, GERMAN STYLE oysters are broiled, remove them from their Smoked tongue soaked over night in cold water, shells, place them in the boiling liquor; serve then scrubbed, parboiled for half an hour, taken in soup plate, garnished with strips of buttered up and trimmed, then placed in a sautoir with toast. well washed sauer-kraut, onion stuck with BROILED SHELL OYSTERS Scrub the shells cloves, carrot and a bunch of soup herbs; mois- clean, lay them on a very hot grill, when they ten with stock, lay slices of fat salt pork over open their shells, take them up and remove the the top, put on the lid and place in a medium flat shell, also loosen the oyster from the deep oven, cook till tongue is tender, about two shell, place a few drops of melted butter or hours, take up; serve in thin slices with Poiv miitre d'hotel butter on each oyster, then rade sauce, flanked with the sauer-kraut. serve very hot. BOILED SMOKED TONGUE, SAUCE PI- BROILED OYSTERS Very large oysters wiped QUANTE Smoked tongue soaked overnight dry, seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped in in cold water, then scrubbed, put to boil in flour, arranged between a wire hinged broiler, cold water, cooked till tender, taken up, skinned brush with melted butter, broil till done, bast- and trimmed; served in slices with Piquante ing with butter while broiling; serve overlap- sauce, garnished with gherkins. ping each other on buttered toast, garnish with BRAISED FRESH TONGUE, SAUCE ITAL- c fess and quartered lemons. IAN Fresh ox-tongue put to boil in cold BROILED OYSTERS BREADCRUMBED water, boiled one hour, taken up, skinned and Same way as the preceding, but after dipp ng trimmed, then larded with seasoned strips of in flour, they are dipped in beaten eggs, then fat pork and lean strips of ham, arranged in rolled in bread (not cracker) crumbs, braisiere with sliced vegetables, herbs, spices DEVILLED OYSTERS Oysters scalde d , and pieces of fat bacon, moistened with stock, drained, cut in squares, the liquor with a little braised till tender, taken up, the braise re- cream made into a thick butter sauce with an duced, strained and skimmed, then added to a added egg yolk or two; season with salt, red thick rich brown Italian sauce, the tongue pepper and chopped parsley, then add the oys- served in slices with the sauce and garnished ters, fill into large deep oyster shells, then with sauteed button mushrooms. strew the top with breadcrumbs and melted OYSTER STEW Bulk oysters (selects) for butter, bake off a delicate brown and serve very hotels when served for dinners, breakfasts, sup- hot. pers, luncheons, and catering parties. Counts PANNED OYSTERS Another form of dry for restaurant orders, club and European plan stew; oysters washed and drained, very hot orders. The oysters scalded in their own frying pan with a little melted butter, oysters liquor, taken up, the liquor skimmed and thrown in and shuffled about till they sizzle, poured back to the oysters, milk brought to the turned out into a small hot soup plate, season boil; bowl or serving dish containing a piece of with salt and cayenne. GOOD butter, salt, dash of red pepper; oysters ROAST SHELL OYSTERS-The shells scrubbed and liquor poured to it, then filled up with dean> arrange d in a baking pan, placed in a boiling milk; served with oyster crackers: a dish yery hot oven; when they open remove the of finely shred cabbage is sometimes served flat shell and i oosen t h e oyster from the deep with it- -but why? shell, place a little melted butter in each, serve CREAM STEW Prepared as above, using quickly with strip of hot buttered toast aside, cream instead of milk. SCALLOPED OYSTERS Baking pan inch and PLAIN STEW Same as oyster stew above, us- a half deep, brushed with butter, oyster crack- ing more oyster liquor and no milk. ers rolled fine with rolling pin, the buttered THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. pan well lined with them, oysters drained, laid all over the rolled crackers, seasoned lightly with salt and pepper (mixed), then well cov- ered with more of the crackers, this then sprinkled well with a mixture of oyster liquor, milk and melted butter, then another layer of oysters, season as before, cover with the rolled crackers, moisten well with the mixed liquors, bake quickly well done, but a delicate brown; cut out in squares; serve very hot, garnish with cress and lemon. [For individual orders in scallop shells, they should be prepared the same way]. STEAMED OYSTERS Shell oysters well scrubbed, placed in a steamer, turn on full steam, time three minutes; meantime take a small deep soup plate, in it have melted butter, salt and a dash of red pepper, open out the oysters and their liquor into it; serve very hot with strips of buttered toast. GLAZED OYSTERS ON TOAST-Large oysters wiped dry, sautee'd quickly with butter, take up, pour the liquor from the sauteeing into a rich Madeira sauce, adding a piece of glaze, reduce this rapidly to half glaze; have the serving platter hot with strip of buttered toast down the centre, dip the oysters into the half glaze aud arrange them overlapping each other on the toast, garnish with cress and lemon. BACON COATED OYSTERS, FRIED Large oysters wiped dry, very thin slices of parboiled bacon rolled round the oysters and pinned with a toothpick, dipped in batter, fried, toothpick withdrawn; served with tomato sauce. SAUCE COATED OYSTERS, FRIED Large oysters wiped dry, clipped into a thick Villeroi sauce, allowed to set, then dipped into beaten eggs, rolled well in sifted breadcrumbs, fried a golden brown; served garnished with quartered lemon. OYSTERS STUFFED AND BROILED One pint cf egg yolks stirred without much beating, poured into a buttered pan and steamed till set firm, allowed to cool, then grate them; one pound of cooked fat salt pork minced very fine, added to the grated yolks with some chopped parsley ; season to taste with salt and pepper; five dozen large oysters wiped dry, slit made in their sides, stuffed with the mixture, rolled in sifted breadcrumbs, then rolled in melted but- ter and again in the crumbs, arrange between a wire hinged broiler, broil a golden brown, basting with butter; serve garnished with quartered lemon and fried parsley. BROCHETTE OF OYSTERS Mince some thyme, parsley and shallots very fine, add a little salt and pepper; wipe large oysters dry, roll them in the herbs, then dip in beaten eggs, then in sifted breadcrumbs, then arrange them alternately on a skewer with pieces of sweet- bread and bacon, fry; serve on toast with maitre d'hotel butter and quartered lemon. CROUSTADE OF OYSTERS Oysters scalded in their own liquor, taken up, the liquor then added to equal quantities of Velout6 and an- chovy sauces, reduce till thick, then add the oysters, fill into fancy croustades, sprinkle over the tops a mixture of grated Parmesan cheese and breadcrumbs, bake a delicate brown in a quick oven and serve on hot plate with paper doily. OYSTERS BAKED WITH MUSHROOMS Fricassee the oysters and mushrooms, having the sauce thick, fill into individual molds or shells, sprinkle the top with mixed cheese and breadcrumbs, bake a delicate brown; serve very hot. FRICASSEE OF OYSTERS Oysters scalded till plump in boiling milk, taken up, butter melted in sautoir and allowed to frizzle with- out becoming colored, flour then added to form a roux, made into thick sauce with the milk, seasoned with salt, red pepper, lemon juice and a dash of Harvey sauce, finished with a liaison of egg yolks and cream. Hot serving platter, buttered toast down the centre, oysters dipped in the sauce, placed overlapping each other down the toast; served with more of the sauce at the sides. BAKED OYSTERS WITH CHEESE Oysters wiped dry, then rolled in sifted breadcrumbs that are mixed with Parmesan cheese and chopped parsley, seasoned with salt and pep- per, moistened with little white wine; arrange in scallop shell, strew with more cheese, bake a delicate brown and serve very hot. FRIED OYSTERS Count oysters rolled in cracker dust or yellow corn meal, then in beat- en eggs, then in the meal again, fried; served with quartered lemon. FANCY FRY- Count oysters wiped dry, sea- soned with mixed salt and red pepper, dipped in flour, then in mixed beaten eggs and whipped cream, then in sifted breadcrumbs, pressed slightly between the hands, fried a golden brown with butter; served with quartered lemon and garnished with green stuff, OYSTERS BAKED WITH POTATOES Large oysters wiped dry, seasoned with salt and pep- per. Duchesse potato mixture rolled out thin, cut out in diamond shapes, oysters laid in the centre, edges folded over and pinched into shape, arranged in a buttered baking pan, brushed over with beaten egg, baked a golden brown; served very hot. OYSTER LOAF Small French rolls, insides hollowed out, the loaf shell then fried a golden brown with butter, the interior then filled with a fricassee of oysters. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 123 CURRIED OYSTERS Oysters scalded and OYSTER PATTIES The Supreme above filled drained, curry sauce made from the liquor, into puff paste patty shells, finished with a liaison of egg yolks and cream. OYSTER POT PIE The Supreme above, keep- Rice boiled in some scalded oyster liquor; served as a border to the curried oysters in the centre. BAKED OYSTERS, ITALIAN STYLE Maca- roni boiled in one inch lengths in oyster liquor from the scalded oysters, Fricasee sauce made of the liquor after the macaroni is drained. Buttered baking pan, alternate layers of the macaroni and oysters, the top strewn with mixed grated cheese and breadcrumbs, dashed with melted butter, sauce then poured over, baked till set; served very hot. OYSTERS IN CASSEROLE Line the casserole ing out the oysters till the pie is finished, i. e., prepare the sauce.put it into the saucepan, bring to the boil, drop light dumplings all over it close together, place on the lid, and cook till dumplings are done, then remove the centre one, place in the oysters, replace the dumpling, keep very hot, but do not let it boil again; this method keeps the oysters plump and tender; serve with a sprinkling of chopped parsley. Cod and oyster pot pie may be prepared the same way, and is useful when oysters are few and you have some cod that wants using up, such as the shoulders that cannot be cut into nice steaks. ^r i rr^^^ n l a c. to ^EP I GR^ME^OFOYM l ^A^^to. lightly and serve. CREAMED OYSTERS ON TOAST Scalded oysters placed into a rich cream sauce, then arranged on buttered toast; served with the sauce poured over. OYSTERS WITH CELERY To each portion as above, having the sauce thick enough to stay on the oyster when lifted out; arrange them down the centre of the serving dish, flanked with neatly fried oysters; serve garnished with triangle shaped pieces of buttered toast, the point dipped into the sauce, then into lobster coral. of oysters allow a tablespoonful of minced white SAUCE-Oysters blanched and drain- celery and the same of sherry wine, saute all together with butter, season with salt and red pepper; serve on toast with the liquor poured over. ed, liquor strained through muslin, brought to the boil, a butter and flour roux moistened with the boiling liquor, seasoned with salt, red pepper and lemon juice, finished with some boiling cream; this is used for white foods. OYSTER TOAST Oysters scalded and drained, then pounded to a paste with cream, seasoned with lemon juice and red pepper, spread on OYSTER SAUCE For brown foods such as circles of brown bread toast. steaks, fried fish, meat pies, oyster pies, roast OYSTER OMELET-Scald the oysters, add the turkfi y- roast ca P n ' etc ". is Prepared same as liquor -to a sauce Normande, reduce, put the the preceding, but substituting a good brown oysters into the omelet, dip two of them into sauce for the boilin g cream ' the sauce and place on top, then pour the sauce STEAK AND OYSTER PIE Tender pieces of around the omelet. SUPREME OF OYSTERS Oysters scalded and drained, the liquor strained through muslin and added to a rich Veloute sauce, brought to the boil, piece of chicken glaze then added, then finish by adding a little thick cream and the juice of a lemon, add the oysters; serve on toast. OYSTER PIE Diamond shaped pieces of puff pastry % of an inch thick when baked, split, the under side laid on the serving platter, the beef cut into small neat pieces, seasoned with pepper and salt, quickly sautee'd a nice color with butter, taken up and placed into the pie dish, oysters scalded and drained. Into the pan the beef was sautee'd in add a little more but- ter, then flour to form a roux, moisten with the strained boiling liquor, boil, skim, strain over the meat and let simmer till meat is nearly done, then add the oysters, some good brown sauce, a seasoning of salt, pepper, lemon juice and Harvey sauce, cover with puff paste, bake quickly; serve hot. Supreme above laid on it. the upper part of the OYS TER CROQUETTES-Two quarts of Se- pastry laid on; served immediately. Another way, take the Supreme of oysters, add some chopped hard boiled eggs and parsley, fill in to a pie dish, cover with a puff paste, bake off quickly without letting the oysters come to the boil in the pie. AND OYSTER PIE The Supreme above with the addition of flakes of fresh boiled cod- fish, prepared and served in the ways given for oyster pie. lects or Standard oysters, one can of mush- rooms, the liquor of the mushrooms poured to the oysters, which are then scalded and drained, the scalded liquor then strained through mus- lin; mushrooms minced and sauted a golden color with butter, taken up, flour then added to form a roux, thick sauce then made with the boiling liquor, adding a little cream and a sea- soning of salt, pepper, lemon juice, Anchovy and Harvey sauces, the chopped oysters and I2 4 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. mushrooms then added, boiled, finished to sprinkle with chili sauce, cover with another proper thickness with a liaison of egg yolks slice of toast, trim the edges, cut across and and cream; turned into a buttered shallow pan, serve. smoothed, covered with a sheet of oiled paper, BREADED OYSTERS, CELERY SAUCE allowed to become firm and cold, then formed Large oysters wiped dryi sea soned with salt into shape of sausages, breaded, fried; served and pe pp e r, dipped in melted butter, then in with brown oyster sauce. f resh gratec j breadcrumbs, place between a OYSTER CUTLETS MINCED The croquette w i re hinged broiler, broil rapidly a delicate preparation made into the shape of rib chops, brown, then place on a narrow strip of hot breaded, fried; served with brown oyster sauce. f res h buttered toast; serve with celery cream OYSTER RISSOLES Crimped circles of puff sauce poured around. paste, the centre containing some oyster cro- QYSTER BOUCHEES For two dozen, blanch quette mixture, edges then folded over and four dozen oysters in their Qwn Hquor take up pinched, brushed with egg wash, baked. and p j ace two in each bouche(i strain the liquor OYSTER STUFFING For fish and poultry: through muslin, add its equal volume of rich oysters blanched and drained, cut in quarters, tomato puree", then season with butter and or if using Standards, leave them whole. Moist tabasco sauce, bring to the boil, keep the stale bread grated one part, rolled oyster crack- bouchees hot, and when serving, fill up with ers one part, the third part of oysters, the the boiling sauce. whole mixed together and seasoned with salt, O YSTER PLANT, FRIED-Scraped clean and pepper and chopped parsley, the liquor brought ^^ COQtaini JJ and a Hule to the boil with an addition of butter, poured wfaite yin ^ fQ be g cookedt first boil to the dry mixture, stirred, then ready for use. ^^ tfaen take up and ^.^ d . Qto {ry - ng OYSTER SOUP-Scald the oysters, drain, strain batter> plunge intQ hot fat f a delicate browDi the liquor through muslin, bring to the boil, take sprinkle with salt and serve as a veg - season with salt, red pepper, mace, Harvey e t a ble and Anchovy sauces, flour and butter roux, moistened with the strained liquor, boiled up, OYSTER PLANT, BOILED-Pr e par e as skimmed, then poured to an equal quantity of above - then boil tender - take U P and drain - Bechamel sauce, add the scalded oysters; serve P lace in vegetable steamer, cover with cream with oyster crackers. sauce; serve as a vegetable. OYSTER SOUP-Oysteni and their liquor scalded OYSTER PLANT.SAUCE POULETTE-Scrape in strong fish broth, taken up and drained, the clean - t cut sma11 P ieces - lav acidulated liquor strained; a can of mushrooms opened, water for an hour - then boil tlU tender m bo11 ' liquor poured to the broth, the mushrooms in g water containing salt and and a little white minced with some shallots, fried with plenty of vine g ar : whsn done - taken U P- turned into hot butter, then taken up and added to the scalded Poulette sauce and served, oysters; flour added to the frying butter to OYSTER PLANT FRITTERS Prepared and form a roux, this then thinned to soup consist- boiled as above, when drained, mashed thor- ency with the boiling broth, season to taste, oughly, then seasoned and stiffened with salt, oysters, etc., then added with some chopped pepper, yolk of egg and flour, spoonfuls then parsley and a glass of white wine; serve with fried in hot fat, taken up, sprinkled with salt oyster crackers. and served. OYSTER GUMBO Minced onions, green pep- STEWED OYSTER PLANT The plant pre- pers and ham fried with plenty of butter, then pared and boiled as above, then stewed in a taken up, oysters scalded in their own liquor rich meat gravy sauce; served on hot buttered and fish broth, taken up and drained, half a toast. gallon can of tomatoes rubbed through a fine OYSTER PLANT SAUTE-The plant prepared, sieve then added to the strained liquor and boiled draine d, then rolled in flour. sauteeM a boiled, skimmed, Jflour added to the butter to golden brown with butter; served on toast with form a roux. moistened to soup consistency hot mahre d>hotel sauce poured over with the boiling liquor and tomatoes, seasoned, two cans of okra then added with a little Doiled PANCAKES-Known to us in every household rice, then the oysters and other fried ingredi- "as "batter cakes' . For recipes, see heading ents; served with oyster crackers. of " batter "- OYSTER SANDWICH-Three or four dozen PARMESAN-Name of an Italian cheese; see oysters dried with a cloth, melted butter in a beading of "cheese". frying pan, drop in the oysters and saute" them PARSLEY A garden herb used as a garnish; to brown, take up, chop fine, season with salt and ornament dishes, chopped and mixed in sauces, pepper, spread on hot thin buttered toast, stews, soups, salads, etc. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 125 PARSNIP A root vegetable, peeled, cut in finger lengths, boiled in salted water, taken up and drained; served as an accompaniment to boiled salt leg of pork. PARSNIPS, CREAM SAUCE Boiled in finger lengths, drained, placed in cream sauce; served as a vegetable. PARSNIPS FRIED IN BATTER Boiled in finger lengths in salted water, taken up and drained, dipped in batter, fried in hot lard, taken up, sprinkled with salt and served. PARSNIP FRITTERS Boiled, mashed, sea- soned and stiffened with salt, pepper, yolks of eggs and flour, fried by spoonfuls in hot lard, taken up, sprinkled with salt, served. PARSNIP SAUTEES-Boiled tender in finger lengths, drained, seasoned with salt and pep- per, rolled in flour, sautee*d a delicate brown with butter, taken up, sprinkled with chopped parsley and served MASHED PARSNIPS- Boiled tender, mashed. seasoned with salt and pepper, milk and butter; served as a vegetable. rjAT^T-* T^A-DOXTTT-,O T, , j j BAKED PARSNIPS-Peeled, quartered, steamed till nearly done, taken up and arranged ma buttered baking pan, seasoned with salt and pepper, moistened I with rich gravy and butter, baked tender and brown. PARTRIDGE BROILED Young birds split down the back, breastbone removed, trussed. seasoned with salt and pepper, brushed with olive oil, broiled and basted well done; served on buttered toast with maitre d'hotel butter, garnished with jelly and parsley; may also be garnished with slices of fried hominy or bacon, or after broiling, served with either Colbert, Italian or Madeira sauces. ROAST PARTRIDGE Young birds singed and drawn, wiped with towel, trussed with a slice of fat bacon tied over the breast, roasted about half an hour; served with game sauce and red currant jelly. BOILED PARTRIDGE Singed, drawn, wiped and trussed, boiled in white stock till tender; served with a rich cream sauce. BOILED PARTRIDGE, GARNISHED Part- ridges singed, drawn, wiped and trussed, put to boil with cabbage, bacon, pork sausages, frankforts, parsley, white stock and a little sherry wine; when tender, taken up, the meats also, parsley thrown away, cabbage pressed dry, then chopped, the remaining liquor strained into a rich game sauce. To serve, place a spoonful of cabbage in centre of dish, portion of bird on it, flanked with a piece of bacon, sausage, frankfort (skinned), sauce poured over - PARTRIDGE SAUTfe Young birds singed, drawn, wiped, jointed, seasoned with salt and pepper, sauteed with butter a delicate brown, taken up, minced shallots then added to the butter with button mushrooms and fried; when browned, surplus butter poured off, part- ridge put back, covered with Espagnole, boiled up and skimmed, seasoned with Madeira wine, simmered till tender; served garnished with fancy croutons. SALMI OF PARTRIDGE The birds singed, drawn, wiped, trussed, roasted, cooled, quart- ered, the back and breastbones with other trimmings then placed in some Espagnole with bacon, minced onion, bay leaf, thyme and crushed peppers, brought to the boil and rap- idly reduced, skimmed, strained over the birds in another sautoir, seasoned with sherry wine, simmered a few minutes; served garnished with croutons. PARTRIDGE LARDED AND BRAISED The birds singed, drawn and wiped, the breasts larded, trussed, arranged in brasiere with slices of root vegetables and sweet herbs; place a few slices of bacon on top, moisten with a little stock, cover with a sheet of buttered paper, place on the lid and put in a slow oven to cook in its own steam for about two hours; when done, take up, add a game sauce to the liquor in the brasiere, reduce, strain, flavor with sherry wine, glaze the birds; serve with the sauce. PARTRIDGE SAUTE WITH RISSOTO-Young birds singed, drawn, wiped, jointed, seasoned with salt and pepper, fried lightly with butter, taken up; into the butter they were fried in, add flour to form a roux, moisten with game stock made from the backbones and trimmings, add the juice and a little of the grated rind of a sour orange, put in the fried birds, simmer slowly till tender; served with a border of ris- soto. BREAST OF PARTRIDGE LARDED AND FRIED Take the breasts, trim and lard them, season with salt, pepper and powdered thyme, dip in beaten egg, then roll in freshly grated breadcrumbs, arrange in a sautoir, pour over melted butter, placed in a moderate oven and brown nicely on both sides; serve on a fancy crouton with a little Richelieu or Sultana sauce poured around. EPIGRAMME OF PARTRIDGE WITH MUSHROOMS Take young birds, remove the breasts, lard them, bread and fry as pre- ceding one half of them, slowly broil the re- maining half, (so that you have one plain and one breaded), dish up one of each, points cross- ing each other, garnish with fried mushrooms in a Fumet sauce. BREAST OF PARTRIDGE, SAUCE COL- BERT Take the breasts of young birds, lard them, slowly broil them till done; served on 126 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. bnttered toast with sauce Colbert poured PARTRIDGE RISSOLES, SAUCE RICHE- around. LIEU Make a croquette mixture with cold BREAST OF PARTRIDGE, GLAZED VEGE- cooked partridge and game sauce, stamp out TABLES Take the breasts of young birds, crimped circles of thin puff paste, place a little lard and roast them. With an half inch sized col- of the mixture in the centres, fold over the umn cutter, cut inch lengths of carrot and tur- edges and pinch close, fry or bake them of a nip, braise and glaze them together with but- golden color, and serve with a Richelieu sauce. ton onions, use them as a garnish to the breasts, EMINCE OF PARTRIDGE Take cold roast and pour game sauce around. partridge, cut in broad thin slices, simmer it in PARTRIDGE BRAISED WITH CABBAGE equal parts of white game and Godard sauces; Take old birds, braise them with sliced vege. ser ve on toast, garnished with sautee"d fresb tables and sweet herbs till three parts done, button mushrooms. take up into a sautoir, add cut cabbage, pour SALPICON OF PARTRIDGE-Take cold cooked over the strained liquor they were braised in, partridge, cut the meat in small dice, also soms add some thin slices of bacon (if not enough truffles> red tongue and button mushroomSi cul liquor add some white stock), simmer till done, same size as the birdj mix moisten wit h either lightly thicken the liquor with flour and butter; game Bechamel or Supreme sauces; serve serve portion of bird with slice of bacon on g arn i she d with small potato croquettes. top, cabbage around, and a little game sauce C ROUSTADES OF PARTRIDGE-Take cold over the bird. cooked partridge, cut the meat in small squares, PARTRIDGE BREADCRUMBEDAND simmer it in a rich game sauce, thenaddarag- BROILED-Truss the bird out like a frog, out of mushroomSi cocks combs and sweet - season with salt and pepper, dip twice in beat- breads; serve in paste croustadeS| garnish with en eggs and fresh grated breadcrumbs, broil {ancy croutons ^lt^n^ucr taCle "^ e '' SeTVe0llt0aSt HASHED PARTRIDGE WITH EGG-Take 1 . -wTTTiT r-i?Av cold cooked partridge, cut the meat in small FILLETS OF PARTRIDGE WITH CRAY- H ht , { it with butt add flour to FISH-Take the upper and lower fillets from ^ a ^ ^ J eQ ^ J simmer the breasts, trim and lard them, arrange them for fi{teeQ minut serve on toast with a in a sautoir with slices of bacon, moistened with trimmed and drained hed Qn then little stock and white wine, cover with a sheet Jsh the ends whh { crofltons- of buttered paper, place on the lid, braise in OATT^? T>TTT?T the oven; when done, glaze them, strain and P * R J W R T J G J ^ ROQ , U ^ TTE S - SAUC skim the braise, then add it to an Allemande GUEUX-Cold cooked partridge minced, thick sauce. To serve: place a ragout of crayfish ^ me ^ au , ce heated ' P art " d g e worked in, stirred tails in centre of dish, large fillet of partridge tlU ll b lls ' two r . three wh !PP ed J' ks ? f e ^ at each end with points meeting over the rag- ma >' e , WOrl ? d t " rn in ' bu ", er j d P an ' out, small fillets at each side, points upwards, sm 1L Oth ' let r l1 beC me thor f ou g hl y cold '. f rm x m ' ,.,..,. to shapes of corks, bread, fry; serve with Peri- spnnkle over all a little lobster coral, and pour Rueux sauce the sauce around ' PARTRIDGE PATTIES Prepare the mixture cr .? A In J PARISIAN asgiven for "croflstades of partridge", fill either STYLE-Take the fillets and coat them with ^ Qr vol . au . vent ca P ses R J serve . Allemande sauce, then in beaten eggs and sifted _ . . , breadcrumbs, then sprinkle with melted butter STEWED PARTRIDGE-Old birds, lard them, and press on a little more of the crumbs, sautS P lace thera "> * sautoir with a piece of fat them of a golden color with clear butter, when bacon ' sweet herbs - vegetables, moisten with done, take up and drain; meanwhile, prepare a white wine and stock ' let them stew slowl y tl11 ragoflt of crayfish tails, button mushrooms, cocks ^nder, then take up and cut into quarters kernels and small truffles, moisten with a little J f" n the ^ uor the j ^" ^ewed in, skim off game glaze, Allemande sauce, crayfish butter the r at ' [ educe lt '. tben add l4 and <*e birds to and lemon juice. To serve: place the ragout a Chipolata garnish "(see garnishes)', serve in centre of dish, the fillets around it, decorate the bird Wlth the S arnish around ' the base with scallops of tongue, and serve PARTRIDGE SALAD-Cold roast birds skinned, some more of the sauce from the ragout separ- trimmed into neat pieces, moistened with one ate part of tarragon vinegar to two of olive oil, PARTRIDGE WITH BACON, CELERY add a little chopped chervil and chives, season SAUCE Take old birds and boil them with with salt and cayenne, mix all together with an salt pork, carrots, onions and turnips in white ec l ual quantity of Julienne cut celery (like stock till tender; serve in portions with a slice matches); serve on a bed of curly endive, garn- of the pork at the sides, and a puree" of celery ish with rings of hard boiled eggs and filleted in a white game sauce poured over. anchovies. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 127 PAUPIETTE Name given to a thin slice of meat spread with forcemeat, rolled up, tied at each end, stewed with meat gravy; the house- hold name for them is "meat olives". PEACH One of our choice fruits, the two var- ieties chiefly used in hotel life being the "free- stone" for dessert, and the "clingstone" for cooking purposes. PEACHES WITH CREAM Freestone peaches skinned, cut in slices, sprinkled with powdered sugar, covered with thick cream and served. COMPOTE OF PEACHES Halves of peaches skinned, simmered in syrup till tender; served cold with a small pitcher of cream separate may also be served hot as a sweet entree. An improvement to the syrup is to take the kernels from the stones, blanch and skin them, then boil in the syrup. PEACH AMBROSIA-Peaches peeled and sliced, simmered in the above syrup till tender, taken serving kettle, cover, heat slowly to boiling point, whisk till thoroughly mashed, then rub through a fine sieve, then add the sugar, boil up, boil and stir thoroughly for fifteen minutes, fill into small jars; when cold, tie over with air-proof paper. PEACH JELLY Two gallons of pared and sliced peaches, one pint of water, two dozen of the kernels blanched and pounded and mixed with the fruit, put all into a stone crock, stand in the bain-marie, cover closely and let boil for an hour, stirring till the fruit is well broken, then turn into a jelly bag and let drip thor- oughly; to each quart of juice add the juice of two lemons and two pounds of sugar, bring quicky to the boil, then boil fast for twenty minutes, skim as the scum rises, roll the glasses in boiling water, fill with the boiling jelly, let cool for 24 hours, then cover with air-proof papers; keep in a cool place. up, arranged in centre of dish flanked with SPICED PEACHES Twenty-eight pounds of peaches, sixteen pounds of granulated sugar, two quarts of white wine vinegar, two ounces of bruised ginger, ounce of ground cloves, two ounces each of ground allspice and cinnamon and half an ounce of ground mace, mix all the spices together and fill into two muslin bags, tie tight, bring the sugar and vinegar to the boil, put in the spices, then the peaches peeled but left whole, when they come to the boil again, remove from the fire and carefully place them in a stone crock, allow to cool overnight, then pour off the liquid into a preserving kettle, gradually bring to the boil, then pour back over the fruit, repeat this with the liquor every day for ten days and on the last day reduce the liquor till there is only just enough to cover the peaches, then place the crock in the bain-marie and bring to boiling point, fill into fruit jars and use as wanted. slices of peeled and pipped oranges, then cover the peaches with some of the syrup, and pipe a fancy centre over them with whipped cream. PEACHES WITH RICE Rice boiled in sweet- ened milk with a vanilla bean till dry in grains; served as a border to the compote of peaches as above. PEACHES WITH RICE CROQUETTES-Rice boiled very tender in sweetened and flavored milk, then taken up and whisked till creamy, set with the addition of egg yolks; when cold, made up into two forms of croquettes, one like a small egg nest, the other like a small pyra- mid; bread them lightly, fry a golden color, depress the centre of the egg nest shape, and place in half a peach from compote, pipe the edge with peach marmalade, garnish with the pyramids, decorating the point with whipped cream and chopped pistachio nuts, pour syrup r>-n ANDY from the compote flavored with Madeira wine around the base, then serve. PEACH MARMALADE Peaches wiped but not pared, halved, stoned, weighed; to each pound of fruit allow half a pound of sugar; take a porcelain lined kettle, pour in just enough water to cover the bottom, then put in the peaches, place on the lid and heat slowly to boiling point; then stir and mash the fruit till fine; then add the sugar and a few blanched and pounded kernels, boil up again and con- tinue stirring for fifteen minutes, then diaw to a cooler part of the range and let simmer for twenty minutes with an occasional stir; place in stone crocks and use as wanted. PEACH BUTTER Yellow mellow peaches peeled and stoned, weighed; to each pound of fruit allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar, put peaches with just a little water in the pre- PEACHES Large firm freestone peaches placed in a preserving kettle and cov- ered with boiling water, lid then put on and allowed to remain till the water becomes cold, then drain off the water and repeat with an- other scalding and cooling, then take each peach out of the cold water and allow to drain and dry between two towels, then put the fruit into small stone crocks and cover with brandy; cover with air-proof paper and allow to macer- ate for a week; at the week end take out and weigh the fruit; to each pound of peaches make syrup of one pound of sugar and a cupful of water, bring to the Doil and skim, then put in the fruit and simmer, when tender, take out and drain, put into fruit jars, allow the syrup to cool; when cold, make a mixture of equal quantities of the syrup and brandy, pour over the fruit in the jars, seal up, keep in a cool dark place, use as wanted. 128 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. BOTTLED PEACHES-Ripe, large juicy peaches peeled and halved, then weighed; to each pound, allow one pound of sugar. Take a stone crock, fill it with alternate layers of peaches and sugar, let macerate for 24 hours, then turn all carefully into preserving kettle with some of the kernels blanched and skinned, bring rapidly to the boil, then simmer till the fruit is tender and the syrup clear, take up gently and fill in- to fruit jars without breaking the halves, allow the syrup to become cold, then pour over the peaches, screw on the covers, use as wanted. PEACH COBBLER Shallow buttered baking pan lined with a good short paste, halves of peeled peaches filled into it, covered with powdered sugar, upper crust of short paste placed on and pinched down at edges, egg washed and baked in a medium oven for half an hour; served cut in squares dusted with powdered sugar and a small pitcher of cream served separately. PEACH SHORTCAKE Ripe freestone peaches peeled and chopped, mixed with sugar to taste, shortcake baked, split, the peaches then spread between and on top, the top layer then piped with whipped cream; served cut in squares, with or without a separate pitcher of cream. PEACH CHARLOTTE Buttered baking pan, slices of an evenly trimmed stale loaf dipped in melted 'butter and arranged around the sides and bottom of the pan leaving no cracks, peach marmalade then put in half an inch thick, cov- ered with more slices of the bread, brushed with beaten egg, then well sprinkled with gran ulated sugar, baked brown and glazy; served with or without sauce. PEACH CROUTONS WITH GLAZED FRUITS Sponge cakes baked in a long round mold; when one day old, cut into slices inch and a half thick. Compote of peaches, the syrup flavored with Kirschenwasser, after peaches are done, removed, and into the syrup is put pieces of angelica with other "fruits glaces". To serve: dip the slice of cake in the syrup, on it place the fruit, then decorate with the "fruits glaces" finish with a little of the syrup poured over. PEACH CHARTREUSE Ornamental jelly molds, fancy slices of "fruits glaces" peach butter stiffened with gelatine. Line the molds with a thin layer of stiff Madeira wine jelly, dip each slice of fruit in some more of it and decorate the sides of the mold in a pretty de- sign, then pour in some more jelly to set the design, then fill up with the stiffened peach butter, put away in ice box to set firm, turn out on a fancy glass dish, pipe a fancy border with whipped cream, sprinkle it with very finely chopped pistachio nuts and serve. PEACH TARTLETTES Fancy patty pans lined with puff paste, halves of preserved peaches placed into each, baked, then a piping of meringue round the edges sprinkled with chopped pistachio nuts, returned to oven till the meringue takes on a delicate fawn color; when serving, pipe the centre fancifully with whipped cream. PEACH FRITTERS Freestone peaches peeled and halved, coated with frying batter, plunged into hot lard, fried a golden brown, taken up and drained; served with wine sauce. PEACH DUMPLINGS Large peaches peeled and stoned, enclosed with short paste, steamed till done; served with any pudding sauce. PEACH PIE Peaches peeled and cut in slices, and made up same as apple pie. PEACH TRIFLE A sheet of sponge cake moist- ened with sherry wine, this spread with a puree of peaches, the peaches with whipped cream, cut orders in a diamond shape, and serve with whipped cream piped around the edges. PEACH ICE Pure"e of peaches flavored with ratafia mixed with water and sugar to taste, frozen; served in ice cups. ICED PEACHES-Large freestone peaches peeled, halved; stone removed; where the stone was, filled with the peach ice above; place the halves together, then coat the outside of the peach with more of the ice, place in refrigerating box till firm, then serve with whipped cream piped around the base. PEANUT One of the most nutritive of foods, is the peanut kernel, as they contain 7.8556 of water, 2.7756 of ash, 29.4756 of protein, 4.2956 of fiber, 14 .2756 of nitrogen free extract, 49 2956 of fat, 4.6756 of nitrogen. * * * In describing the uses of peanuts it is scarcely necessary to more than refer to that use which fully three- fourths of the American raised crop is devoted. The not is sorted in the factory into four grades, the first, second and third being sold to vendors of the roasted peanut, either directly or through jobbing houses. The fourth grade, after pass- ing through a shelter, is sold to confectioners, to be used in the making of "burnt almonds", peanut candy and cheaper grades of chocolates. The extent of the use of the peanuts by the American people will be more fully appreciated when it is remembered that they use 4,000,000 bushels of nuts yearly (at a cost to the con- sumers of $10,000,000) which do not form a part of the regular articles of food, but are eaten at odd times. PEAR A delicious fruit, produced at its best in California. The Bartlett is the best for serv- ing plain or in the fruit stands. May be used in almost all the ways just previously described for peaches. PRICKLY PEAR The fruit of a cactus named Opuntia, is peeled, sliced, moistened with THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 129 brandy and the juice of an orange, then served with powdered sugar. PEAS Garden peas shelled and washed, the toppings removed from the water, put to boil in boiling water with salt, little sugar and a small bunch of green mint, boil rapidly without a cover till tender, about ten to fifteen minutes, take up and drain, remove the mint; serve plain as a vegetable or garnish, or mix with cream or gravy, or butter sauce. The dried green peas of commerce may, after soaking in cold water over night, be treated the same as fresh garden peas. GREEN PEA SOUP Garden peas shelled and washed, boiled till tender in good chicken broth, seasoned to taste, then is added some shredded chervil and lettuce. GREEN PEA SOUP Peas shelled and washed, boiled in white stock till tender, slightly thick- ened with roux, then rubbed through a tamis, seasoned; served with crofitons . . Tothepure may also be added finely cut chervil, chives, spring onions, asparagus points, stringless beans . . . also may be mixed in for a change, two or three cans of macedoines ... or a julienne of vegetables , . royal custards . . rice grains . . flageolet beans . . etc. PUREE OF PEAS Dried green peas soaked over night, put to boil in white stock with a ham knuckle, mint, onion, carrot, spring onions and chives; when tender, remove the ham, rub the rest through a tamis, season to taste, bring to the boil again and slightly thicken with roux, to avoid settling; cut the ham in small dice and add to the soup; serve with croutons. PUREE OF PEAS Dried green peas put to boil with salt pork and and a bunch of pot herbs in veal broth, boil till soft and pork is done, then remove pork, thicken a little with ronx to prevent settling, then rub through tamis, bring to boil again, season to taste, cut the pork in dice, add to the soup; serve with crofitons. SPLIT PEA SOUP Split peas soaked over night, put to boil in white stock with onion, celery, carrot and salt pork; when done, thicken lightly with roux to prevent settling, remove the pork, rub the rest through a tamis, bring to boil again, season to taste, add the pork cut in small dice; serve with crofltons. PEAS PUDDING An English dish used with boiled salt pork, salt beef, etc. Split peas soaked over night, then put inco a cloth allow- ing room to swell, put to boil in cold water with salt and a small piece of common washing soda, boiled till soft, taken up, the cloth hung to allow all water to drain ont, then untied, turned on to a dish and served with the accom- panying meat. PEPPER Black, White and Mignonette the berry of the pepper vine. The Black is the unripe berry dried; Mignonette is the black crushed (not ground) used in seasoning foods or stocks, etc., that will be strained; White is the kernel of the ripe berry. RED PEPPER is the ground seeds and pods of the small capsicum; also called cayenne pepper. PEPPERMINT Name of a combination plant of pepper and mint, one of the mint species; a volatile oil is extracted from it which is used for medicinal purposes, also as a flavoring to many things in the confectioners' trade. PEPPER POT Name of the national soup stew of the West Indies; composed of pieces of beef, veal, ham. chicken, game, all sorts of vege- tables, chopped green marjoram, savory, basil, parsley, small potatoes and dumplings, finished and seasoned with sauce cassareep and chili pepper. PERCH A delicate dainty flavored small fish abundant all summer in our fresh water lakes, rivers and streams. As the skin is hard they should be skinned by first running a sharp knife down either side of the back fins, lifting the fin out, then with a sharp jerk pull off the skin from the sides, empty the entrails, cut off the other fins, season with salt and pepper, roll in flour, then in beaten eggs, then bread- crumbs, fry a golden brown; serve with lemon, garnish with parsley, and you have a dish ac- ceptable to all. . . . Or, after preparing, season, roll in flour, broil and baste till done; serve garnished with chip potatoes and a little maitre d'hotel butter, . . . prepare and boil in salted water with a bunch of parsley, take up and drain; serve with Allemande, parsley butter or anchovy cream sauce, . . . prepare, season with salt and pepper, roll in flour, saute in butter; serve with a strip of bacon and a little anchovy butter spread on it ... prepare, season, roll in flour, bake with a little bacon fat till done and delicate brown in color; serve with Allemande sauce. PERIGUEUX Name given to a sauce made by frying a delicate brown together some minced shallots, onion and ham, then moisten with a glass of white wine and allow to simmer till half reduced, then add an equal quantity of brown roux and good meat gravy, also some truffle peelings and a piece of meat glaze, sim- mer the whole for ten minutes, then pass through the china cap, add plenty of thinly sliced truffles and set in bain-marie for use. PERSIMMON Name of a fruit resembling in appearance a smooth tomato, in color between the red and yellow sorts; best when having caught the frost; has a flavor from its pulpy in- terior like a mixture of a rough banana and tamarinds; its taste must be cultivated to be 130 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. liked as a fruit. It is prepared in the Southern states as a beer, cider and wine. Also its pulp is rubbed through a sieve, mixed with corn meal instead of water and made into a sweet corn bread. PHEASANT A fine game bird; should be hung by the tail for at least a week or till its gamy flavor is pronounced, then pluck, draw, singe, wipe and truss, plunge him into boiling salted water with an onion and some celery stalks; when he is tender take out; serve in portions with a good combined celery pure"e sauce con- taining an eqnal quantity of rich oyster sauce. BROILED PHEASANT Take the very young birds, and after hanging, pluck, singe, split down the back, remove back and breast bones; season with salt and pepper, brush well with olive oil, place in a wire hinged broiler, broil over a cleared space of the charcoal till tender; serve with a brown game sauce. ROAST PHEASANT Hung birds plucked, singed, drawn, wiped, trussed, breasts larded, bacon tied over the larded breasts, roasted and basted till done; served in portions with bread sauce. BRAISED PHEASANT Hung birds plucked, singed, drawn, wiped, stuffed with aFinanciere ragofit mixed with grated stale bread and a little grated lemon rind, trussed, braised with bacon, sweet herbs and a little game stock; when done, taken up, the braise strained and skimmed, then poured to a game sauce, reduced, finished with a glass of port wine; served in portions with some of the ragout under, the sauce over. . . . May also be braised without being stuffed, and served with a pure"e Soubise. . . also braised with cabbage lettuces and pork saus- ages; served garnished with the sausages and a game sauce poured over . . .also braised, served garnished with glazed sweetbreads, and a Financiere ragout. PHEASANT MAY BE USED TO PRODUCE ALMOST ALL THE ENTREES GIVEN WITH PARTRIDGE, AND NAMED AC- CORDINGLY. fICALLILI Cut the following vegetables rather fine, crush the garlic, then add, pack all into stone crocks and cover with slightly salted water, and stand in a cool place for one day and night, then drain on sieve and press with cloths till dry; then place back into the crocks, cover with the boiling vinegar and spices, her- metically seal on the crock covers while con- tents are at boiling heat 100 small cucumbers, 3 small white cabbages, 18 small heads of cel- ery, 6 medium cauliflowers, 6 quarts of string- less beans, 9 each of medium sized green and red peppers, 4 cloves of garlic, 6 ozs. of mus- tard seed, 2 level teaspoonfuls each of ground allspice, mace and ginger, 2 heaping teaspoon- fuls of ground black pepper, enough cider vine- gar to well cover. PICKLES When making any pickles from the receipts given under their respective headings, always use the best cider vinegar, scald to boil- ing point but do not let it boil, prepare always in either granite or porcelain lined kettles, use wooden spoons or paddles. A piece of horse- radish root in the jars will prevent the vinegar from becoming moldy. They should always be kept in stone or glass, and in a dry dark place. PICKLE Aromatic salt pickle (German) Take seven and half gallons of water, one pound of Indian cane sugar, half pound of pulverized cleaned saltpetre, three ounces of coriander seeds, half a dozen bay leaves, three cloves of garlic. Boil all for five minutes, let it cool, strain into brine tub through a fine strainer, throw away the refuse. This brine will keep all SUMMER, and can be used for every kind of meat. All meat from this pickle will have a fine red color and a pleasant taste. PICKLE PUMPS There is perhaps no process so important in the curing of meat as pumping. Meat is liable to very quick decomposition un- less it is immediately brought in contact with a preservative of some kind, such as salt, borax, etc. In ordinary course if these preservatives were laid on the surface of the meat, they would mingle with the meat juices, dissolve and percolate slowly through the tissues; but this process is slow and under many conditions of temperature, dangerous. Hence the neces- sity of an appliance which brings the preserva- atives at once into operation. The salt brine or pickle is filtered so that it runs clear, and is then injected by the pickle pump into the meat to be cured. PICKLING BEEF AND HAMS To 100 pounds of beef or hams, use 7 pounds of rock salt, 5 pounds of brown sugar, 2 ounces of saltpetre, half an ounce of salaratus, mix together and boil in four gallons of water, skim while boil- ing and pour on to the meat hot. For hams to cure well, they should remain in the pickle for six weeks. PIG PRODUCTS Under the name of fresh pork is comprised generally all the lean and fresh parts of the pig destined to be roasted or broiled, particularly the cutlets, the loin and small fillet. The loin is the fleshy part between the cutlets and the ham; it furnishes an excel- lent roast. The "filet mignon" as the French call it, is the long and narrow fleshy part under the kidney along the dorsal spine known to us as the pork tenderloin. It is the most delicate morsel of pork and weighs from half to a pound in weight. HAMS Nearly always entire hams are salted (cured); sometimes they are used for cooking THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 13* after several days coring; sometimes for smok- collared brawn, etc. The tongue can also be ing or preserving a longer or shorter time; used for converting into savory tongue. sometimes they are boned and used for the PIGS FEET-The handling of which, so as to manufacture of different kinds of sausages. SHOULDERS These are used to make rolled or boned hams; sometimes they are cured and smoked, and are then called fore hams or Cali- fornia hams; most often they are used for the manufacture of sausages. CAUL The caul is mostly used for wrapping around different stuffed pieces such as truffled feet, stuffed cutlets, flat sausages, broiled liv- ers, etc. FRESH LARD-BACK FAT-LARDING PORK ^Fresh lard or back fat. The fat between the skin and the flesh is called fresh lard or simply lard. There are two kinds, melting fat and hard fat; the first, or that nearest the flesh, is SKIN The skin of the pig can be easily tanned. easily known by the touch; it yields to a mod- It furnishes a leather superior to that of the ox. erate pressure of the fingers, and is used for making lard. The other, or hard fat, adheres to the skin and is not easy to melt; it is used for larding and in the preparation of a great number of products in the pork butchers' trade. KIDNEY FAT --Is the fat that covers the kidney and tenderloin; it is used for fine force- meats and in black puddings, to which it gives a delicate taste. From this fat also is obtained a very fine white lard superior to ordinary melted lard. GUT FAT The fat that adheres to the intes- tines. If melted alone, lard of second quality is produced; more often it is melted with other lard so as to produce lard of ordinary quality. LUNGS, LIVER, HEART, KIDNEYS, BRAIN, SPLEEN The lungs and liver form part of the ingredients of various kinds of sausages, BONES The bones are used in the making of produce a profitable return requires scientific method and absolute cleanliness. The feet should be used fresh as cut from the pig. The front feet are always used first as they are the best for turning into edible delicacies, and the hind feet contain more bone. The toes are pulled off and the hair clean shaved; the feet should then be well washed and scraped, tak- ing care not to cut them, as this causes them to break when cooking; after cleaning, fresh water should be kept running on them until they are to be cooked. The constantly changing of the water removes the blood and makes them more inviting and whiter when cooked. It forms an important element in the making of jellies. Skin left on salt meat preserves it from the ravages of insects, and from the effects produced by the air. BLOOD The blood of the pig is very valuable for the manufacture of blood puddings. It is used in cooking to thicken sauces; and it clari- fies jellies and gives them a beautiful golden tint. HAIR The hair or bristles are used extensively in brush making. The bristles en the back serve as needles for hand sewn boot and shoe manufacturers. HOOFS Pulverized hoofs make a very rich manure. They are also used in the manufac- ture of glue and Prussian blue. liver pates, broiled and fried liver, etc. The heart, kidneys and brain are prepared by the culinary processes which are used for other similar pieces of butchers' meat. The spleen is generally used in sausages of an inferior quality. soups and jellies. After being cooked they may be pulverised and used for manure. BLADDERS The bladders after being well washed, blown and dried, are used for wrapping round sausages, and for filling with lard, also for hermetically sealing pots of preserves. STOMACH Comprises the small intestines, the GALL The liquid contained in the gall bladder coecum, the colon and the rectum. The small is very good for taking out grease stains with- intestine is used as a casing for different kinds of sausages, black pudding (boudin noir) etc. The coecum, called also the bag or pocket, is out taking out the color of even the most deli- cate stuffs. Hence the products of the pig are, taken together, of immense value. used, as also the colon and the rectum and fat BRINE FO R HAM, PICKLES, ETC. Before j r~ *i i _* j? end for the packing of different sausages to keep, and for the making of stuffed chitterlings. The stomach or paunch requires long cooking, after which it is used in common sausages and chitterlings. TONGUE, EARS, SNOUT, FEET, HAMS AND TAIL All these different pieces can be cooked alone, or with vegetables without any special preparation being necessary. Very often they are put for some days in a brine. The tongue, ears and snout are used also for head cheese, proceeding with the subject of pork I will draw the "hotel butcher's" attention to the subject of his pickling, and as in some parts of the country the hotel keepers raise their own pigs and desire their cooks to use up every part of it to advantage I will give the receipts of ham pickles. Many butchers prepare their brines in a way as simple as it is DEFECTIVE. They are con- tent to dissolve a certain quantity of salt and saltpetre in cold water. THIS BRINE DOES 132 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. NOT PRESERVE, and must not be used for delicate meats. Put into a boiler and let boil for ten minutes 6 gallons of water, 21 pounds of salt, 6 pounds of sugar, 2 pounds of saltpetre, stir well during cooking, then empty out the brine and all that remains undissolved, allow to become quite cold, then add a quarter of a pound of mixed whole spices; rub the meat with powdered saltpetre and salt, place in the brine tub, pour over the brine. This brine is excellent and can be used for all kinds of meat, and notably for meat where special brines are not indicated. Boil as in the preceding 5 gallons of water, 8 pounds of white salt, 2 pounds of gray salt, 2^ pounds of sugar, 2> pounds of saltpetre; allow to cool, flavor with % pound of whole spices. Boil and cool as above 10 gallons of water, 50 pounds of white salt, 4 pounds of gray salt, 4% pounds of saltpetre, 5 pounds of sugar, flavor with ^ pound of spices. In some Italian provinces an excellent brine is prepared, composed of 1% gallons each of Barola wine and water, 8 pounds of white salt, % pound of gray salt, % pound of saltpetre, flavored with thyme, bay leaves, basil, savory, and juniper. In Westphalia the hams are pickled with a brine made with, 2> gallons of water, 8 pounds immediate contact with the salt are impreg- nated too strongly. This difference in result is easily explained through the action of the salt. In both methods this condiment clears out the aqueous portions of the blood in the tissues and thus preserves the meat from taint. With dry salting it is pure salt which saturates the meats. In the wet process the brine, which acts like salt, be- ing a solution of it, impregnates in a much less degree the flesh, as it is so much weaker being in solution. If the wet process is used, noth- ing must be done until after the meats are thoroughly chilled, which is not often complete (according to temperature) before twelve to eighteen hours. If this precaution is neglected, and the warm meats were heaped into a brine tub, not only would they become unshapely, but they would become hot and ferment, the inevi- table consequence of which would be their cor- ruption and that of the brine. With the dry process the meats can be salted immediately after slaughter, which is favor- able to the success of the operation. In fact, it is known by the reason of its chemical com- position, meat tends to decomposition as soon as the animal ceases to live, and it is therefore apparent that the less advanced is the tainting, the greater is the success of the salting. of salt, 2 pounds of sugar, */ 2 pound of salt- PICKLING OF ROLLED HAMS Choose hams petre, 2 ounces of spices tied in a muslin bag. For Bayonne hams, the following brine is used, \ l /i gallons each of good red wine and cold water, 8 pounds of white salt, 2 pounds of gray salt, 2 ounces of saltpetre, and a flavoring of sage, rosemary and lavender. There are two principal processes for salting meats: the wet process and the dry. Both that are not very fat, bone and trim them, pickle in brine for two weeks, wash in fresh water for an hour or so, brush the hams, beat with a mallet so as to make them round and uniform, tie with string, dry them in the air, then smoke them. When these hams are dry they can be served raw, but usually they are served cooked. have their merits, and their combined use of- FORE HAMS OR CALIFORNIA SHOULDERS fers advantages. THE WET PROCESS con- sists in steeping meats in a brine for some time, according to the thickness of the pieces of meats; it is carried out by the big packing com- panies, where the system of curing has reached Trim the shoulders, cut them round, put through the dry process (as above) for three days, then through the wet process for ten days, take out of the brine, wash, scrub, dry, smoke, and finish like ordinary hams. most perfect condition. THE DRY PRO- PICKLING OF OX TONGUES Cut away the CESS: place the meats on the salting table, powder them with fine saltpetre, rub well into the meat, rub afterwards? with gray salt (sea salt). Arrange them one beside the other in such a way that they will not get out of shape, then cover evenly with white salt; this opera- tion is renewed every two or three days until the salt has been well soaked into the inside of the flesh, a result which is obtained in from one to four weeks, according to the size of the pieces. This process is generally carried on by salt meat exporters. By the wet process the necessary salt flavor is obtained, inasmuch as they are immersed in brine more or less salted. With the dry pro- cess, on the contrary, the meats coming into dead flesh, the gristle, and the fat which is found at the root. Make on each side of the root slight incisions to facilitate the salting. Wash the tongues in running water, brushing them well, dry with a cloth, rub them with saltpetre, then with a mixture of 9 parts salt and i part sugar, and put them in a good brine for 12 days. Ox tongues, like those of pigs, calves and sheep, have on their thick side a slimy liquid, which easily taints the brine. This is why it is important to well wash and dry them before putting into the brine. For the same reason tongues should always be pickled alone in a special brine tub in which only the necessary quantity of brine should be put. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 133 PIGS HEAD STUFFED More often called "Boars Head (glazed)". Select a perfect head with good ears; the head must be cut off full, that is with two or three joints of the neck bone left on; carefully bone it; the head is then well washed in cold water to remove all blood, and put into a spiced pickle for six days; it is then well washed and stuffed tightly with pork sau- sage meat, a piece of rind being stitched on Dack of head to keep the stuffing in. The head is then placed on a thin board and another piece placed alongside each cheek and tied in position to keep head in shape; the whole is now tied up in a cloth, and cooked gently, so as not to break the ears, but long enough to cook thoroughly; allow to cool, taking care to place in position, so that it cools to a good shape with ears erect; when cool insert glass eyes, and, if available, a pair of tusks, then glaze and dec- orate. PIGEONS The young ones called squabs, are best split down the back, breastbone removed, trussed, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in melted butter, broiled; served on toast with maitie d'hotel or piquante sauces. ROAST PIGEON Young birds plucked, singed, drawn, wiped, trussed with bacon over the breast, roasted; served with their own gravy, garnish with cress. BREASTS OF PIGEON Breasts of young birds, seasoned, breaded, and broiled, or fried; or coated with sauce then breaded and fried; or the breasts saute^d then breaded and fried; served with any garnish appropriate to dark fleshed birds or game. STEWED PIGEON WITH MUSHROOMS Separated into four joints, sautee'd with butter, taken up into a sautoir to which is added little lean ham, button mushrooms sautee'd, bunch of pot herbs, seasoning, little red wine and stock, the whole simmered till tender; served with the mushrooms as a border. PIGEON PIE Into a deep pie dish place on the bottom some thin slices of beef, then halves of young pigeons, slices of bacon, some forcemeat balls, mushrooms, and yolks of hard boiled eggs, little chopped parsley, moisten with sea- soned gravy, cover with a short paste, brush the top with egg wash, and bake gently till done, about an hour and a half. POTTED PIGEON-Young birds plucked, singed, drawn, wiped, stuffed with a mixture of grated bread, chopped parsley, chopped suet, grated hard boiled egg yolks, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, trussed, placed into a crock with celery, thyme, parsley, an onion stuck with cloves, glass of Madeira and a little stock, cover, place in oven, and cook gently till tender; served with the strained gravy, garnished with cress and lemon. COMPOTE OF PIGEON Practically the same as above, generally garnished with sautee'd button mushrooms. PIGEON CROUSTADE Young birds prepared and trussed, arranged in a sautoir with slices of bacon, moistened with chicken broth, stewed till tender, taken up and placed in a toasted fancy bread croflstade; served with financiere garnish poured around. CURRIED PIGEONS Small young birds, one to the portion, prepared and trussed, placed in oven with bacon fat and quickly browned and basted, taken up into a curry sauce made of chicken and game stock, to which is added a grated green apple, simmered till tender; served garnished with timbales of rice or ris- soto. CURRIED PIGEONS WITH RICE Split the birds in halves, take out the breast bone, sea- son with salt and pepper, roll them in curry powder and then in flour, mince some onions and a clove of ga rlic, fry them without much color in oil of butter, take up the onions; then fry the pigeons, moisten with stock, return the onions, add a grated sour apple, also a spoonful each of tamarinds and Bengal chutney with a little preserved ginger, simmer slowly till done, take up the birds, skim off any grease from the curry, strain it over the birds; make a border of dry boiled rice around the serving dish, place two halves of birds in the centre with some of the sauce poured over them. STUFFED PIGEON WITH POTATOES-Draw the bird as for roast, take out the breast bone, stuff with a mixture of bread crumbs, parsley, its own liver and heart minced with a little bacon, grated lemon rind, salt and pepper. Ar- range them in a sautoir, cover with stock and simmer slowly till tender. Make a mound of mashed potatoes on the serving dish, place a pigeon on top, pour over some of the gravy made from the stock the birds were simmered in. STUFFED PIGEON WITH VEGETABLES Prepare the birds and cook as in the preceding recipe; when tender, take up the birds, then boil some Julienne cut vegetables in the stock the birds were simmered in, season, place the bird on a slice of toast, pour the gravy over it, and garnish with the drained vegetables. LARDED PIGEONS, GARNISHED Lard the breast of the birds with bacon, arrange them in a sautoir, moisten with chicken stock and simmer till tender, take up, reduce the gravy to a glaze, roll the birds in it, and serve each one on a fancy croustade, pour over a little finan- ciere sauce, and garnish the base with a ragout of truffles, mushrooms, cocks combs and que- nelles of chicken. SALMIS OF PIGEONS Take cold cooked birds, split in halves, arrange in a sautoir, moisten THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. with a game sauce, add a glass of sherry wine, serve the birds on a fancy crouton, pour over a little of the sauce and garnish with stoned olives. BRAISED PIGEON WITH FLAGEOLETS Prepare and stuff the birds as for "Stuffed pigeons with potatoes," braise them slowly till tender, take up, add a good brown sauce to the contents of the brasiere, reduce, then strain it over the pigeons; serve the bird on toast with a spoonful of the sauce poured over; garnish with some flageolets that have been saute'ed in butter. FRICASSEE OF PIGEONS Draw the birds as for roasting, take out the breast bone, stuff the aperture with a veal forcemeat, tie up, blanch, arrange in a sautoir, cover with a Veloute" sauce, put on the cover and simmer slowly till tender; serve with green peas, and a fancy crouton at each end of the dish. BRAISED PIGEON, GARNISHED Braise the birds till tender, split them in halves, arrange neatly on toast, pour over some of the strained and skimmed braise, garnish with stoned olives, button mushrooms, small quenelles, olive shaped pieces of carrot and turnip that have all been simmered in chicken or veal stock till done. ROAST PIGEON WITH TOMATOES Take young birds and stuff them with breadcrumbs seasoned with salt, pepper, butter, minced parsley and onions parboiled in broth, add an egg to bind, cover the breasts with broad thin slices of bacon, roast, take up, add to the pan they were roasted in some Espagnole sauce, and a seasoning of Worcestershire sauce, boil op and strain, then add to it a little tarragon vinegar and chopped parsley; serve a spoonful over each bird, and garnish with saute'ed toma- toes. SAUTE OF PIGEON Split the birds down the back, remove the breast bone, flatten with the cleaver, season with salt and pepper, roll in flour, fry in butter* when done, take up and add flour to the butter they were fried in, moisten with stock, boil up and strain over the birds, add some chopped estragon leaves and a spoon- ful of tarragon vinegar, simmer a little while, then serve. SQUABS, SAUCE CRAPAUDINE Draw the birds as for roasting, then without detaching the parts, cut the breast from the tip to the wing joint, turn the two ends so as to look like a frog, flatten with a blow of the cleaver, dip in melted butter, then in fresh grated bread- crumbs, broil slowly till done; serve with sauce crapaudine. BROILED PLOVER ON TOAST Wipe the birds but do not draw them, broil over a clear fire, basting often with butter; serve on toast, garnish with a croflton spread with currant jelly. ROAST PLOVER Wipe the birds but do not draw them, spread a thin piece of fat bacon over the breast, roast quickly till done; serve on a fancy crodstade with a little game sauce poured over. BREAST OF PLOVER, EN SALMI Wipe but do not draw the birds, roast, take off the breasts and simmer them in a game sauce containing minced mushrooms, take the trail of the birds, spread it on fancy croutons; serve the breasts on a Duchesse potato, pour the sauce around, and garnish with the crofi tons. BREASTS OF PLOVER WITH SWEET- BREADS Roast the birds, then remove the breasts and place them in a sautoir with a lit- tle demi-glaze and some stoned olives. Take small sweetbreads lard and braise them; serve one of each with the sauce poured over them. PINTAIL Name of one of our common wild ducks, is good stuffed and roasted, and in a salmi. PIQUANTE Name of a sauce made with an equal number of chopped shallots and green gherkins, boiled till shallots are done in caper vinegar, then is added some capers, bay leaf and a few sprigs of thyme, boiled again till vin- egar is reduced to one third of its original vol- ume; remove the bay leaf and thyme, add enough good Espagnole sauce and a little chicken broth, till of the proper sauce consist- ency. PISTACHIO Name of a pea green nut of al- mond flavor, used by pastry cooks and confec- tioners. PLUMS As there are so many varieties grown, and all good for dessert, compotes, etc., I will simply here append a few ways of taking care of them when they are to be had very cheap. PLUM MARMALADE Rub the plums but do not pare them, cut in halves and remove the stones, weigh them, and allow half a pound of sugar to each pound of fruit. Put the fruit in- to a preserving kettle, add sufficient "water to cover the bottom, cover, and bring slowly to the boiling point, then stir and mash the fruit until fine, add then the sugar and some of the kernels blanched and minced, boil and stir continually for fifteen minutes, then draw to one side and allow to simmer for twenty min- utes more; pack away in stone crocks. PLUM BUTTER Select mellow fruit, peel and remove stones, weigh the fruit then, and to each pound allow three quarters of a pound of sugar, place the fruit in preserving kettle, heat slowly to boiling point, then mash till smooth, then rub through a fine sieve into another kettle; add the sugar and boil for fifteen minutes, stir- ring continually; pack away in small jars. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 135 PLUM JELLY Take common blue plums, wash in cold water, place in preserving kettle, adding two quarts of water to each bushel of fruit, cover the kettle and heat slowly until the fruit is soft and tender, then turn into flannel jelly bag and let drip till fruit is dry. To every pint of this juice allow one pound of granulated sugar, put the juice into preserving kettle and bring it quickly to the boil, add then the sugar and stir till dissolved, then boil rapidly till it jellies, about twenty-five minutes; remove scum as it rises; as soon as it jellies, take jelly tum- blers, roll them in boiling water, fill with the boiling liquid, stand aside for 24 hours, then screw on the covers. PLUM PUDDING As each and every pastry cook has his own favorite recipe for this dish, which is usually associated with Christmas, I will simply append one that has always given satisfaction to the best of critics: Pound and a half of raisins stoned and freed from stalks. . . Pound and a half of currants, rubbed and freed from stones. . . Pound mixed of citron, orange and lemon candied peels. . . Two and a half pounds of finely chopped beef suet. . . Two pounds of sifted flour. . . One and a half pounds of brown sugar freed from lumps . . . Eight eggs. . . One and a half pints of rich milk. . . The grated rind and juices of two lem- ons and two oranges. . . One ounce of mixed ground nutmeg, cloves and cinnamon. . . Half a pint of Cognac and a teaspoonful of salt. Mix overnight before to be boiled in the morning; fill into molds or into a buttered and floured cloth; boil steadily for five hours; serve with hard and brandy sauces. PLUM CAKE The finest wedding cake as made by a late employer of mine: Pound and a half of sifted flour . . . Pound and a half of pure butter. . . Pound of powdered sugar. . . Pound of French cherries cut in halves (cerises glaces). . . Pound and a half of seeded raisins and cleaned currants (three- quarters of each). . . Half a pound each of shredded citron, orange and lemon candied peels. . . Half a pound of finely chopped al- monds. . . Eight whole eggs. . . Grated rind and juice of four oranges. . . Half an ounce of mixed ground cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. . . Half a pint of Cognac and a teaspoonful of salt. POMPANO A most delicious nutty flavored fish of the Southern waters, broiled whole, or', if large, filletted and broiled; served with maitre d'hotel sauce, or melted butter and Tartar sauce aside, garnished with lemon and fancy potatoes. . . Broiled fillets of Pompano served spread with Montpelier butter and garnished with Julienne potatoes. . . Filleted Pompano saute'ed with strps of bacon, served with it and fancy potatoes. . . Small Pompano fried a deli- cate brown with butter, butter oil then poured off into another pan, browned, then is added lemon juice and chopped parsley; served over the fish, garnished with Saratoga chips. PORGIE Name of a small fish plentiful in the Eastern States markets; served in every way applicable to perch. PORK TENDERLOIN WITH SWEET POTA- TOES Season the meat with salt, pepper and sage, roll in flour, then in melted roast pork drippings, arrange in baking pan with small whole, or halved, peeled sweet potatoes, bake till done with plenty of basting, about three- quarters of an hour; serve with gravy made in the pan they were cooked in. STUFFED PORK TENDERLOIN The meat split and stuffed with sage and onion dressing, tied with twine (which is afterwards removed), baked and served as the preceding. BROILED PORK TENDERLOIN Split, sea- soned with salt, pepper and sage, rolled in flour, broiled well done, basting with butter; served with apple sauce, sauce Soubise or sauce Robert. BRAISED PORK TENDERLOIN Braised with vegetables and bacon; when done, the braise strained and skimmed, then added to a sauce Robert or Lyonnaise, the tenderloin dipped in the sauce, then laid on a neat centre of pure"e of sweet potatoes, little more of the sauce poured around the base. CURRIED PORK TENDERLOIN Take any unused tenderloins of the preceding receipt, cut them in neat scallops quarter inch thick, reheat them in a good curry sauce; served garnished with small glazed onions at the sides and a small mold of rice at the ends. CORNED PORK TENDERLOINS Use tender- loins that have been in a good brine for three days, wash, boil slowly for three-quarters of an hour, take up and drain, then split in halves, season with pepper and powdered sage, roll in flour, arrange in baking pan, bake a delicate brown, basting with sausage drippings, serve garnished with Julienne vegetables in a cream sauce. ROAST LOIN OF PORK With a boning knife separate the joints on the chine bone of the loin of pork (better than chopping it), season with salt, pepper and sage, score the rind, ar- range on a meat rest in baking pan, with sage and onion dressing under the meat, bake in a medium oven well done and brown; serve in chops on a spoonful of the dressing, gravy at the sides, and apple sauce served in a separate dish; also roasted without dressing, and served with Remoulade sauce. ROAST LEG OF PORK Legs 10 to 12 pounds in weight are of best quality and most eco- nomical. Remove the foot, score the rinds in- 136 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. to dice shape, roast in a medium oven well done two and a half to three hours; serve with sage and onion dressing, gravy, and apple sauce separate; or with tomato sauce, or Rob- ert, or Piquante sauce, or with baked apples. STUFFED LEG OF PORK For serving cold. Lay the leg on table skin side down, remove the aitchbone, then cut along the leg bone to the knuckle joint, remove the leg bone leaving the knuckle bone in, fill the cavity with a stuffing composed of fresh mashed potatoes, minced and saute'ed onion, salt, pepper, sage, pork sausage meat and one whole egg to each leg of pork, draw the meat together close, tie tightly, score the rind, bake slowly with a few apples in the pan, till done, basting with the apple juice and gravy; then take up and allow to get thoroughly cold; serve for luncheon or supper, in slices garnished either with small pickled onions, sliced gherkins, Tartar sauce, Remoulade sauce, pure'e of cranberries or pure"e of apples. After you have got the guests (especially in a family hotel) to try this dish, you will have to keep two or three on hand all the time to keep up the demand. BONED BOILED SALT LEG OF PORK For serving cold. Use a 12 pound leg, get it fresh, remove the foot, rub with salt, wash it, pump it with brine; then lay it in brine for four days, take up, drain, remove the bones as in the pre- ceding recipe, draw the meat together, letting the thin side come right over the thick, tie tightly with twine, put to boil in cold water with a few bay leaves and an onion stuck with cloves, boil slowly for one hour and a quarter, then allow it to become thoroughly cold in the water it was boiled in; serve in slices with a garnish of horseradish mustard and a few pickles, or sliced tomatoes with Tartar sauce, or German potato salad. COLD ROLLED BELLY OF PORK(STUFFED OLIVES) Nice lean bellies of pickled pork, may be boned, rolled, tied, then wrapped in a cloth and tied again like a roly poly pudding, boiled till tender, taken up and allowed to be- come cold in the cloth it was boiled in, the cloth then removed, the pork wiped with a hot wet cloth; served in slices garnished as above. BROILED PORK CHOPS Remove the rind, cut the chops to an even thickness, trim off any superfluous fat, season with salt and pepper, roll in butter then in breadcrumbs and broil a golden brown, or broil them plain, and serve plain or with apple sauce, or with Robert, Tar- tare, Anchovy, Curry, Bretonne, Soubise or Lyonnaise sauces, or serve plain and garnished with fried sweet potatoes or fried apples. FRIED PORK CHOPS Remove the rind or leave it on (some like it on), season with salt and pepper, roll in flour, fry with pork fat a golden brown; serve plain or with tomato, Robert, Piquante, Curry, Soubise or sage sauces, or with fried apples. PORK CHOPS SAUTEES-Trim the chops, sea- son with salt and pepper, fry them a golden brcwn with butter. Make a stiff puree of split peas, place a heaping spoonful in centre of dish, place chop on it, and pour a little gher- kin sauce over. PORK CROQUETTES, ANCHOVY SAUCE Make the pork croquette mixture from cold roast pork trimmings, season it with a little sage, adding to stiffen it some pork sausage meat; serve with a brown thick roast pork gravy flavored with anchovy essence. EMENCE OF PORK WITH FRIED APPLES Take the lean of cold roast leg of pork and cut in circular slices size of half dollars, dust them with salt, pepper and powdered sage, re- heat them in sauce Robert; serve on toast; garnished with slices of fried apples. SALT PORK WITH PARSNIPS Lean pickled belly of pork, boil it with whole parsnips for half an hour, take up and drain, then slice the pork and quarter the parsnips, now fry the pork a golden brown, then the parsnips in the pork fat; serve two slices of each. MINCED PORK WITH FRIED APPLES Lean minced fresh pork three parts; white bread soaked in milk, then squeezed dry one part; season with salt, pepper and powdered sage, add a few beaten eggs, mix all thoroughly; place it in a buttered baking pan, cover with a sheet of buttered paper and bake in a medium oven for an hour and a half, cut out in squares or diamond shape when done and served with fried apples. FRIED SALT PORK WITH APPLES- -Take the cold rolled belly of pork of a preceding recipe, slice it in quarter inch thicknesses, roll the slices in corn meal. Take sour cooking apples, core them, slice in half inch thick- nesses, then arrange the pork and apples alter- nately in a baking pan, brown off of an even color in a quick oven and serve. FRIED PORK KIDNEYS Take the kidneys and split them, remove the white centres, soak them in salted water containing a little vinegar for an hour; then wipe dry, season with salt, pepper and powdered sage, roll in flour, fry a golden brown with butter; serve on toast, garn- ish with Brussels sprouts and pour over the kidneys a spoonful of maitre d'hotel butter. PORK SAUSAGES These may be made in var- ious ways according to the price per day or meal of the hotel or restaurant. They are rarely made of the pure meat, as when so made they are too rich and unpalateable. If, how- ever, a large proportion of the meat used be lean the richness will to a great extent disap- THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 137 pear. It is in all cases, however, advisable to CERVELATPOLSE OR DANISH BEEF AND have present some cracker meal, bread or gran- ulated rice, even if added only in small quanti- ties, as by that means only, FIRMNESS can be obtained. The hotel butcher or cook should make all the sausages used for every purpose, and not have them purchased from the meat pur- veyor. In the case of the sausages that are smoked, etc., and served as a relish, that part of it can be always done by the people from whom your hams are purchased for a mere trifle. Further, it is my very firm convic- tion, that, the ordinary hotel butcher knows but little about sausage making. He should know! and I shall here devote several pages of this book to that teaching, with the hope that it will enable the hotel butcher to become of much more value to his employer, by economy, and also to become a man proper to use the title of butcher. Butchering is not merely cut- ting roasts, chops, steaks, hams, bacon, and do- ing general "garde mange" work; it consists of PORK SAUSAGE For this recipe, use 25 pounds each of beef and pork, twelve and a half pounds of pork fat cut in small dice, one and a half pounds of salt, 30 gram, powdered saltpetre, 50 gram, ground white pepper, 50 gram, powdered sugar, 13 gram, each of ground ginger and nutmeg. Remove all sinews, then chop the beef and pork together quite fine, adding the seasonings towards the finish, then add the diced fat and thoroughly mix. When mixed placed into the filler and fill TIGHTLY into beef casings, tying into i8-inch lengths; hang in the air for 24 hours, then smoke in very warm smoke till the skins are brown; then boil them until the sausage is as elastic as an indiarubber ball and will bounce if dropped on the table. This is a sure proof that the saus- age is thoroughly cooked. When done, dry them and glaze the skins. Serve as in the first recipe, in slices, as an appetizer or Hors d'oeuvre. a knowledge of what to do with meat in its KNOCKPOLSE OR HARD SMOKED DANISH every use, and how to utilize every particle to advantage, hence, as you have read so far in this book, I have been profuse in explanations of the uses of meat and how to properly take care of it; as the BUTCHER'S BILL is al- ways the heaviest one for the proprietor to meet for the back part of the house. DANISH SMOKED SAUSAGE The following recipes have been obtained from the largest and best sausage factory of Copenhagen, Denmark. For this recipe, use 25 pounds each of lean beef and pork, 12 pounds of fat cut fine and 8 pounds of fat cut into small dice, two and a half pounds of salt. 30 gram, powdered salt- petre, 70 gram, powdered sugar, 85 gram, ground white pepper. Remove all sinews, then chop the beef and pork together; when about SAUSAGE For this recipe, use 21 pounds of beef, 12 pounds each of veal and pork and 5 pounds of pork fat cut into small dice, one and a quarter pounds of salt, 30 gram, powdered saltpetreris gram, ground nutmeg, 20 gram, each of ground cinnamon and ginger, 60 gram, ground white pepper, 4 garlic cloves and 4 small shallots finely grated. First chop beef and veal together half fine, then add the pork and finish chopping till fine, adding the season- ings towards the finish; then thoroughly work in the pork fat cut in small dice. Place the meat in the sausage filler and fill into hog cas- ings, tying in six inch lengths, meat NOT to be filled too tightly. When filled, hang to dry for a day and smoke in warm smoke. Boil for eat- ing hot or cold. half chopped, add the 12 pounds of fat and fin- WEINERPOLSE OR BAVARIAN SAUSAGE ish by chopping all fine, adding the seasonings toward the finish; then work in thoroughly the 8 pounds of fat cut in small dice. When well mixed the whole mass should be packed tightly (n a wooden trough for 24 hours so as to allow the saltpeter to effect its color and also render the mass more firm. The meat is then placed into the sausage filler, and filled into beef cas- ings as TIGHTLY AS POSSIBLE. The tighter the skin is filled, the better the sausage will be for cutting when dried. When the casings aie filled, they should be laid in a pickling tub and lightly covered with coarse salt, place a board on top and let them remain till the salt has turned into pickle, then lift them out and hang in the air until ALL moisture has run off them. When dry, they should be smoked in cold smoke until they are a rich dark brown in color. The sausage is then ready for eating, and will keep for several months. Length, about eigh- teen inches. For this recipe, use 25 pounds of pork, 12 pounds of veal, 12 pounds of pork fat, 20 ounces of salt, 30 gram, powdered saltpetre, 30 gram, ground coriander, 50 gram, powdered sugar, 60 gram, ground white pepper, 2 garlic cloves and 4 shallots grated fine. Use only the best meat and CAREFULLY remove all sinews. Mince the pork and veal together first, then mince the fat, then thoroughly mix all to- gether, adding the seasonings. Place into the sausage filler and fill into sheep or lamb cas- ings, tying into five inch links. Let them hang for 24 hours, then smoke in warm smoke until of a bright brown color; boil five to eight min- utes, when they are ready for the table. LEVERPOLSE OR LIVER SAUSAGE For this recipe, use i large pig's liver, 10 pounds of veal (from the neck), 10 pounds of belly of pork, 8 pounds of pork fat, 3 pounds of salt, 40 gram, powdered thyme, 50 gram, each of 138 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. ground nutmeg and ginger, 60 gram, of pow- dered marjoram, 140 gram, ground white pep- per, 5 pounds of lean pork, 4 small onions in winter, NONE in summer, as they easily cause acidity. Remove sinews and gristle from the pork and veal, boil them and mince together. The fat to be cut into small dice, the liver to be skinned, and the thick veins removed and to be boiled in the boiling broth for five minutes; then chop it a little, add a little salt, and mince quite fine. Now throw the minced veal and pork, diced fat and liver into the mixer along with the five pounds of minced RAW lean pork, add the spices and a cupful of the fat and water from the broth and mix altogether thoroughly. Place the meat into the sausage filler and fill into hog casings NOT too tight, tying into 18- inch lengths. Then boil the sausages in boil- ing water 20 minutes, take up, wash them and lay them on a table to cool. They are then ready for the table, cut in slices cold. Are also used fried in slices warm. This sausage can be smoked in cold smoke in winter, and keeps well. LEVERPOSTEJ.LIVERWURST OR DANISH LIVER SAUSAGE 10 pounds of pigs' flare, 3 or 4 pig's livers according to size, 4 to 5 pounds of minced lean pork, 10 eggs, 6 to 12 anchovies according to size. Add pepper, salt, nutmeg and cinnamon to season according to taste. Fill into beef casings, boil two hours. These are well liked by most people. BEEF SAUSAGES A good article for the "help's hall". Take 20 pounds of flank of beef freed from skin and bones, cut it up into inch pieces and mix thoroughly into it 10 ounces of salt, 4 ounces of pepper, half an ounce of ground nutmeg, and 2 ounces of robbed sage, then mince through the machine; meanwhile soak 4 loaves of bread (eight pounds) squeeze it dry and amalgamate with the meat, then add DRY, three pounds of sifted cracker meal; then place the whole into the sausage filler and fill into sheep casings, link them; then separate the links, arrange in baking pan, and bake till done and brown, about 15 min- utes. BLOOD SAUSAGE Use cheek meat, heart, lungs, and pork rinds in any quantity that is convenient. Cut the pork rinds into small pieces, boil in clean water until three parts cooked, saving the broth and the rinds. Cut the balance of the meat together quite fine, and boil it slowly with the pork rinds and broth, allowing the broth to cover the meat. Remove the fat that comes to the surface, cook until it is well done. Take one gallon of calf's or pig's fresh blood immediately after killing. Stir it in a vessel 10 to 15 minutes until it will retain its fluid condition. Then pass through a fine sieve to break up any lumps. Mix 15 pounds of the cooked meat as above with one gallon of blood and season to taste. Pour through a funnel into beef middle casings, fill- ing three parts full, the end being tied. Tie the open end, and place the sausage in the broth and allow it to boil. The blood, in cook- ing, will expand and fill out the remaining part of the casing. Stir continually, or the blood will all collect in the lower side of the casing. When cooked, the sausage will rise to the sur- face, owing to the expansion of the air. Where ever air collects, pierce with a fork or fat will fill these places. When of a good appearance, remove and wash in clean cold water and allow it to remain there till cold. The sausage may be improved by smoking cold over a low fire of shavings and sawdust. A hot fire will cause it to sweat and spoil its appearance. BLOOD SAUSAGE (NORTH GERMANY) Boil iaJt pork till not quite cooked and then cut it into small dice. To every 10 pounds boil 2 pounds of well dried pork rinds, and a calf's or pig's lungs, or, instead of that, a corresponding quantity of pork trimmings. When these are boiled tender, put the rinds and lungs or trim- mings through the mincing machine, scald the pork dice, and add enough well beaten pig's blood to make the whole moderately liquid, then get the exact weight (reckon 12 pounds to the gallon). To every gallon add 6 ounces of salt, i ounce of white pepper, % ounce each of ground cloves and marjoram. Stir all well together and fill into casings. Boil about an hour and a half until no blood oozes out on the sausages being pricked. On coming out of the boiler, wash in warm water, and lay on a table to cool, and afterwards smoke for a few days in cold smoke. (To every 10 pounds of sausage meat, reckon about one and a half pounds of blood). BLOOD SAUSAGE (FRENCH) Take equal quantities of lean and fat pork and boil it till tender; then cut the fat into small dice and the lean meat into small pieces. Meanwhile have some onions, leeks and shallots steamed soft, added to the above meat. To every 10 pounds of this sausage meat add 2 pounds of pig's blood, 5 ounces of salt, ^ ounce of white pep- per and one tenth of an ounce each of ground mace and thyme. Stir all well together and fill into narrow hog casings. Boil until no blood exudes on being pricked. Then remove and wash in warm water, and let cool on a table. BOLOGNA SAUSAGE Use lean fresh meat, trimmings and cheek meat. Chop together very fine; while chopping add spices and sea- soning, and from 25 to 30 ounces of salt to every 100 pounds of meat. To every 100 pounds of beef add 5 pounds of pure fat, either fresh or salted pork. When the beef is nearly THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 139 chopped add from one to one and a half pounds of farina and sufficient water to suit; mix thoroughly. Stuff into beef middle casings. Tie the ends together into rings 24 inches long. MO SAIC SAUSAGE Take an 18 pound leg of out pricking them, then take them up into cold running water, letting the water run till they are cold and firm. Smoke with hickory wood and hickory sawdust, remove when well colored, cook in boiling water. When the bologna is sufficiently cooked it will rise to the top. Pepper and coriander are the spices used for bolognas. BOLOGNA SAUSAGE (ITALIAN) Take 27 pounds each of raw lean pork, cooked pickled pork and raw veal, 5 pounds of anchovies finely chopped together. Then add 14 pounds of raw fat pork cut in small dice; season with 18 ounces of salt, n ounces of white pepper, 4 ounces of ground caper, 21 ounces of peeled pistachio nuts cooked in wine. After carefully mixing the meat and spices, distribute amongst it six pickled and cooked tongues cut in slices. Then fill into beef middle casings or bungs. Wrap each sausage in a clean cloth, tie round with twine, then boil one hour, take up, lay them out in a cool place for 24 hours, remove the cloth, wipe with a warm cloth, pour over them either colored or uncolored fat, then dec- orate. BRUNSWICK, CERVELAT SAUSAGE For every block of fifty pounds take 28 pounds of lean pork, 10 pounds of lean beef freed from sinews, 12 pounds of bacon fat cut in shreds, 2 pounds of salt, 3 ounces of coarse ground white pork, bone it out and remove all skin and sinews, this will leave 15 pounds of meat; cut this up, put into a stone crock after first rub- bing into it 12 ounces of salt, i ounce of cane sugar, and y z an ounce of powdered saltpetre; put on the cover and allow to macerate for 24 hours, then take it from the crock and mince it with 5 pounds of lean veal, adding during the mincing i ounce of white pepper, l /$ of an ounce each of mace and ginger and one-sixth of an ounce of cardamons. Then fill into skins 6 inches thick and 8 inches long, three parts full. To make the mosaic work use long inch square pieces of red cooked tongue each wrapped neatly with a thin shred of bacon fat, also a column each of blood sausage, Frankfort sau- sage and liver sausage, each wrapped like the tongue. To insert these columns, take a stick a little thicker than the column, dip it in- to cold water, push it into the sausage, with- draw it, then slip in the mosaics at equal dis- tances, then tie the sausage, hang up in smoke for one hour, then boil very gently for an hour and three-quarters, then smoke again lightly. [N. B. Both while smoking and simmering, keep the sausage in an upright position so that the inlaying may be kept straight] . pepper, i ounce of powdered^ saltpetre, 2^ CAMBRIDGE S AUSAGE-This makes a nice breakfast sausage: Take 12 pounds of lean and 6 pounds of fat pork, cut it into small pieces and rub well into it 9 ounces of prepared sausage seasoning, pass through the mincing machine, then mix into it 3 pounds of scalded rice, 2 pounds of cracker meal. Place the whole then into the filler, fill into sheep casings, link up and use. ounces of powdered sugar. First mince the beef very fine, then add the pork and mince and mix the two together till the pork is about the size of peas; then add the pork fat which must be mixed until it shows amongst the rest in pieces the size of beans; then add the mixed spices and salt, mixing well. After a thorough mixing, place into the filler and stuff tightly in- to small middle beef gut casings. They must now be hung in a well ventilated room of 60 COBLENZ SAUSAGE-A good seller for restau- degrees temperature for two weeks until they rants: Take 10 pounds each of veal and pork cut it up and allow to macerate for 24 hours after being rubbed with 12 ounces of salt and y z an ounce of powdered saltpetre. First chop the veal very fine, then add the pork and chop all together, adding i ounce of white pepper, >$ of an ounce each of ground ginger and peppermint, three shallots and three cloves of garlic. Mince till the fat shows through the rest like pin heads, then add water as much as the meat will take, leaving it very stiff; place then into the filler, fill into sheep casings, link them up into 6 to the begin to look red under the skins; then smoke them in cold dry smoke until they take on a cherry red color; then keep in a well aired room for use or sale. SARDINE AND LIVER SAUSAGE For this recipe, use 8 pounds of pigs liver, 7 pounds of lean and 4 pouuds of fat fresh pork, 6 pounds of fresh bacon and ^ a pound of sardines, 12 ounces of salt, i^ ounces of white pepper, ^ an ounce each of ground ginger and marjoram, and ^3 of an ounce of ground thyme. Cut the liver into strips, wash it, then blanch it; drain dry, then chop it. Boil the lean pork for half an hour, then chop with the liver; blanch the fat pork and add it with the bacon and season- pound; hang up for some hours to dry: then smoke with mixed sawdust at a temperature of 100 Fahr, till they are a beautiful dark orange color, about i hour. To serve, simmer them for 10 minutes. ing and sardines, mincing all fine and thor- oughly mixing. Fill this into skins nine inches EPPING SAUSAGE (i). 23 pounds of lean long, not too tightly, boil for half an hour with- beef, 7 pounds of fat pork, 8 pounds of bread, THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. soaked and pressed dry, 4 ounces of white pep- per, 13 ounces of salt, % f an ounce each of ground nutmeg and ginger, X f an ounce of rubbed marjoram. Mix the seasonings with the meat, mince fine, then work in the bread; place into the filler, fill into sheep casings, link them, and use by frying and broiling. EPPING SAUSAGE (2). 30 pounds of pork fat and lean, 8 pounds of bread soaked and pressed dry, 4 ounces of white pepper, 13 ounces of salt, ^ of an ounce each of mace and rubbed sage. Prepare and use as above. FRANKFORT SAUSAGES (WEINERWURST) 9 pounds of veal, 36 pcunds of lean pork and 5 pounds of fat pork. Chjp finely, adding a seasoning of i pound of salt, 6 ounces of white pepper, and one head of garlic; when ready place into the filler and fill into sheep casingsi linking them at about four to the pound. Smoke for 48 hours, boil for 5 minutes before serving plain or with sauerkraut, etc. CHICKEN HAM AND TONGUE SAUSAGE 10 pounds of lean pork, 4 pounds of fat pork, 4 pounds of veal, 2 pounds of ox tongue, 4 pounds of granulated rice scalded, 2 pounds of cracker meal, the meat from one fowl and six hard boiled eggs, 9 ounces of salt, 3 ounces of pep- per, % an ounce each of ground mace and finely chopped parsley, and % of an ounce of powdered thyme. Cut the meats into pieces, add the seasoning and rice, mince altogether till fine, then the eggs minced, and the meal, fill into weasand casings, simmer slowly for an hour, use cold in slices. TRUFFLED LIVER SAUSAGE-Take 5 pounds of pig's liver and 3 pounds of fat pork. Mince these together very fine, and add a X of a pound of truffles cut into narrow strips and cooked in wine. Add a seasoning of salt and pepper and knead together. Fill into narrow hog casings, simmer for about half an hour, wash well in cold water and hang up to dry. If to be kept any time, smoke for a dry. Take care to use no spices, otherwise the flavor of the truffles will be spoiled. GOOSE LIVER SAUSAGE, TRUFFLED-Take 2 pounds of well blanched calf's liver cut in pieces the size of small nuts, 4 pounds each of lean and fat firm fresh pork both minced very fine. Next add 4 shallots sliced and fried with butter to a golden color. Season with 5 ounces of salt, l /t an ounce of white pepper, one-fifth of an ounce each of ground ginger and mace. Then cut from a fine red cooked tongue half a pound, cut in very small dice also a quarter of a pound of truffles; mix all well. Then take 5 pounds of geese livers blanched and sliced. Fill into the filler alternately the truffled meat and the sliced geese Jlivers. Then press into very wide pig skins not more than 12 inches long. Boil them gently one hour in fresh clear water. When done, take up into cold running water, which will make them beautifully white. LIVER SAUSAGE To every two hog's livers add one calf's liver; cut in thin slices. Scald well with hot water until the livers look white and clean. Chop well, adding one-eighth the amount of pure pork fat, boiling the fat for half an hour before mixing. Mix and chop together very fine, adding four ounces of fat pork to every five pounds of the balance. Then boil for half an hour, adding the following spices to each 100 pounds: 7 ounces salt, 2 ounces pep- per, i ounce ground marjoram, ]/ 2 ounce each of ground sage, basil and thyme, 2 minced onions and a small head of garlic. Stuff from stuffer into narrow hog casings 13 to 18 inches long (not filling very full) tying the ends with twine. When filled and tied, they are cooked in water just below the boiling point for thirty minutes (to give the white appearance) contin- ually stirring them. Care must be taken to prick the air places, or they will fill with fat. After cooling, hang for three days in the open air, then smoke for six days over a slow fire. SARDINE LIVER SAUSAGE Use 40 pounds boiled pigs' livers, 7^ pounds boned and trimmed sardines, 15 pounds cooked veal, 7^ pounds cooked lean pork, 20 pounds cooked fat pork, 10 pounds raw fat pork. Chop together very fine, and add 14 ounces salt, 10 ounces white pepper, i ounce each ground thyme and marjoram. Stuff into beef middle casings. Cook and smoke the same as the liver sausage (German recipe). The Lyons sausage (Saucisse de Lyon) was intro- duced into Germany in ths year 1852 by Lill on his return from his tour in France. Sausage makers throughout Germany then tried to make it, because of his success with it, but no one else succeeded. It can only be manufactured to keep by taking the greatest of care. When it is well made and well dried, it would pass for Cervelat sausage. It is prepared in the follow- ing manner: For a quantity of 40 pounds take 25 pounds of well fed pork, 10 pounds beef from a young bullock, which should be chopped up when warm and then pounded in mortar, 5 pounds pork fat, cut into dice the size of peas and then cooked for a little in boiling water, 12 ounces salt, 2 ounces Indian cane sugar, i ounce powdered saltpetre. Mix the two lean meats, then mix the salt, saltpetre and sugar. Rub them into the meats, and let it stand for 48 hours in a cool room in summer, and a warm room in winter. Now chop up the meat fine, then mix the seasonings and add them. They are 2 ounces white pepper, ^ ounce each of ground white ginger and nutmeg, 2 shallots salted and grated. Before the pork fat is put THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 141 amongst the rest, the spices should be well cracker dust, adding cold water to it as it be- mixed up amongst the other things and a little comes too stiff. When of the proper sausage water worked into the mass. Now mix in consistency, place into the filler, and fill into lightly and quickly the pea diced pork fat. Put pork casings, linking them six to the pound. the meat into medium wide beef runners, 15 PORK SAUSAGE SEASONING Thoroughly inches long, pressing it in very tight. Now m i x together, then keep in tight covered tins, DRY the sausages WELL before smoking. g pounds table salt, 6 pounds pure ground When they are smoked a fine red color, put white pepper, ^ pound each of ground mace, them at once into a saucepan, and cook for half ground nutmeg, and rubbed sage leaves, i ounce an hour at a heat of 203" Fahr. When the each of ground cloves, ginger and rubbed basil, sausages are cool, there are usually some and */ 2 an ounce of cayenne pepper, wrinkles in the skin; this can be remedied by SALAMI Use 50 pounds of beef free from fibre, putting them in pairs into boiling water not 25 pounds each of lean and fat porki c hop very more than fifteen seconds. After they are coc 1 fine and add lg ^ Qunces o salt> ^ ounces again, they should be smoked in cold smoke for ground white pepp er, x# ounces ground salt- eight hours; they are then ready. petre) with 8 glasses o{ Rhine wine , in which OBERLAND LIVER SAUSAGE Take a previously has been soaked one pound of garlic, shoulder of pork and remove the bones and (I n place of Rhine wine, rum may be used). skin. Boil it well with three pounds of bacon Stuff into calf's bladders. Let them hang in cut in dice. Then mince the shoulder with the open air for two or three weeks, then smoke half its weight of raw liver and a large onion for 12 days. chopped very fine; add the diced bacon and VERONA SALAMI (Salami de Verona)-Use 18 season with salt pepper and grated nutmeg, dg Qf deaned beef lg ds o lean k> and mix m a little fat if the paste ,, too stiff. poundg Q{ back fat> 2 pounds of sah x ounce Stuff into ox skins and boil gently for 40 min- o{ powdered sa l tpe tre, 3 ounces each of ground utes Then take up into cold running water, ^gj j x m of old and keep them in it until quite stiff. French cognac. First mince the meat, then POLISH SAUSAGE-This is the national sau- chop the {at in amongst it t he size of pecan sage of Poland, liked by rich and poor: Take DUts; then mix in the spiceSi and chop unt il the 25 pounds of pork, % lean, and */ 3 fat, which {at is the size of peas> wipe the knives o f ten has been salted for a few days with i pound while mincing Three sticks of garlic finely salt and a little sugar. Grate finely three large ted may be added . Use skins for ho i ding cloves of garlic, salt them, stir in amongst them this _ and bind with pretty thick string aU the a quart of water Then add the meat which over> For the rest prepare i ike "Cerve- O^P^ 0^^ nu N t m W eg add M?x lat sausage" but do not smoL^only let the salami well and put into narrow pig skins very full. han * for four r five weeks tO dry ' When filled, tie into fifteen inch lengths; hang SMOKED SAUSAGE OR KNACKWURST to dry for a day; then smoke them with beech Take 6o pounds of lean pork, 14 pounds of wood at a heat of 133" Fahr., and let them hang lean beef and 26 pounds of fat pork. Chop very till they are thoroughly cooked inside merely fine > tnen add x pound salt, 5^ ounces ground with the hot smoking. pepper, i l /2 ounces ground saltpetre, 2^ ounces PORK SAUSAGES (first class) Take 15 pounds whole caraway seeds, a small quantity of grated of .ean and 6 P ounds of fat P ork, cut it UD into 8 arlic - Stuff in beef rounds or ho ^ casin g s - two inch P ieces and mix with it 14 ounces of Han g in the air for 8 da y s - then smoke for 6 pork sausage seasoning, (from reci P e below); da y s - the y mav then be P reserved in a CDo1 cho P together fine, or run through meat cutting drv P^ ace - machine with a fine P late; then thoroughly in- TENDERLOIN SAUSAGE Take the pork corporate with it 3 pounds of crumb bread tenderloins and trim them as near the shape of soaked and pressed. When mixed, further a sausage as possible; rub with hot salt, and work in one pound of sifted cracker dust. place for two weeks in a vessel containing a Place the mass then into the sausage filler, and solution of 17 ounces of salt boiled in 5 pints of run into pig casings, linking them at six to the water. Remove, wash, and stuff tightly in pound. beef bungs. Smoke for two weeks. PORK SAUSAGES(good ordinary sausage)-Take THURINGIAN RED SAUSAGE 14 pounds 15 pounds lean and fat P ork and pork trim- thick streaky pork off the belly part (half tend- mings, cut it up into two-inch pieces and mix erly cooked) cut in quarter inch dice, 3 pounds with it ii ounces of pork sausage seasoning; of boiled pigs rinds, 4 pounds raw liver and chop fine, then thoroughly incorporate with it 4 lungs finely minced. This may be varied by pounds of crumb bread soaked and pressed. substituting boiled tongue or salted boiled When mixed, further work in 4 pounds of sifted heart, cut into pieces of equal size. Now put 8 J4 2 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. pounds of blood in a tin dish, and then into a hour, boil them with a small piece of saltpetre big pot, and stir CONSTANTLY until hot. and the sweet taste will be removed. Add first the rind, liver and lungs, and stir POTATOES BAKED IN THEIR SKINS, will well, and then the pork. Season with 24 ounces always come out more dry and mealy> if a smail of table salt, 3 ounces ground wnite pepper, i iece be cut off QNE end( tQ allow steam tQ ounce ground marjoram, ^ of an ounce each g g . Q cooki of ground caraway seeds and ground cloves. Work all thoroughly together, and as quickly POTATOES WHEN BOILING are sometimes as possible fill the hot meat into the widest allowed to much water - so that " boils over pigskins you have. Give plenty of room, and on to the ran g e - producing a very disagreeable then put at once into water which is BOILING sme11 - A little bakin 8 soda thrown on to any HARD- stir constantly. Prick this sausage burning overflow of this nature will immed- often, and cook at a temperature of 212" Fahr. iat *ly d " v e away all odors. It is ready when, on pricking, the fat which ex- FRENCH FRIED POTATOES Raw peeled udes is perfectly clear. Smcke in cold smoke, potatoes cut in strips about the size of the little with some juniper berries in the sawdust. finger, fried in hot fat till done, taken up and TOMATO SAUSAGES-Lean mutton 6 pounds, drained - sprinkled with salt, then served, mutton fat 8 pounds, canned tomatoes 3 pounds, PARISIENNE POTATOES-Balls about the size sifted cracker dust i> pounds, scalded granu- of small cherries scooped out of raw potatoes; lated rice i pound, 10 ounces sausage season- cooked and served the same as French fried, ing. Cut the meat up fine in the machine, take LYONNAISE Cold boiled potatoes, either out into a mixer.andadd the rice and tomatoes, minced or sliced thinly, seasoned with salt and then the seasoning and the cracker dust. Place pepper, mixed with a little chopped parsley and in the filler, fill into sheep casings, and link minced fried onions; fried with butter in the them 6 to the pound. (When cheap enough, form of an omelet. use fresh tomatoes). SAUTE Also called HOME FRIED, COT- VEAL SAUSAGES Chop together 22 pounds of TAGE FRIED, GERMAN FRIED: are thinly veal freed from sinew and n pounds of bacon, sliced cold boiled potatoes, seasoned with salt and make very fine; season with 12 ounces of and pepper, browned on both sides in a fry pan salt, T-Yz ounces ground white pepper, 3 nut- containing butter. For RESTAURANT serv- megs grated and YZ ounce of ground mace. ice they should be served in the form of an Knead all together, adding a pint of milk. Fill omelet, nicely browned. into narrow skins. STEWED IN CREAM Raw potatoes cut in WESTPHALIAN SAUSAGE Take three parts very small dice, boiled till perfectly done, of lean and one part of fat pork, and cut into drained, put in a stew pan with a piece of good pieces like small dice; then season with salt, butter, seasoned with salt, covered with cream, pepper and cloves, so that it tastes mildly of simmered for two or three minutes, then served, the spices, and knead all together. Stuff into HASH ED IN CREAM Same as the preceding, long narrow casings, and let dry out of doors but having the potatoes minced a f te r whole for several days; then smoke yellow. NOTE: boilingi i nstea d of cut in dice. The above sausage is made almost exactly like SCALLOpED PO TATOES-Same as stewed In cream above; when rerdy to serve, put into SASTER SAUSAGE of the country people of scallop or vegetable dishes, sprinkle with grated Scotland, only the Scotch omit the smoking, chee se and breadcrumbs, brown off quickly in and the "sasters" are dried by hanging from a the oven or under a salamander, string attached to the ceiling in the kitchen. HASHED BROWNED-Same as the minced The Scotch sausages are usually kept for sev- L yonnaise, but omitting the parsley and onion, eral months before being used. JULIENNE-Raw peeled potatoes cut in shreds POTATOES are much improved if peeled and i ike matc hes, fried a delicate brown in very hot laid in cold water overnight. It saves time in i ard taken up and drained, sprinkled with salt the morning, and they are nicer and whiter in and fj ne p ars i e y dust. consequence. STEWED WITH BACON Bacon cut in small IN STEAMING POTATOES, put a cloth over dice, fried well done, drained, mixed in with them before placing on the steamer lid, they potatoes stewed in cream, will then take less time to cook and be much POTATOES REITZ Shapes of the parallelo- more mealy than when steamed without the % ^ m< Qt long square (about two inches long and an inch square) cut with a ribbed scallop TO EXTRACT FROST FROM POTATOES knife, steamed two-thirds done, then plunged After paring, put them in cold water for an into hot fat and finished like French fried. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 143 POTATOES VILLAGEOISE Cold boiled pota- to a sautoir with butter and a seasoning of sait, toes, minced and simmered in Bechamel sauce. put the lid on and stew gently till done; served SARATOGA CHIPS Very thin shavings of sprinkled with parsley dust, peeled potatoes cut with a machine, steeped in CURRIED POTATOES Same as the preced- ice water to draw out the starch and become ing, adding a spoonful of curry powder while crisp; fry a few at a time in very hot lard. stewing. POTATOES BROILED Either plain or sweet POTATO RAGOUT Same as the stewed Pari- potatoes, cold boiled, cut lengthwise one-fourth sienne, but when nearly done, taken up and of an inch thick, seasoned with salt, dipped in drained, then placed into a good Espagnole melted butter, then in flour, broiled between a sauce, and simmered till done, a wire hinged broiler; served with miitre POTATO QUENELLES The croquette mix- d'hotel butter over them. ture rolled into 'very small balls, dipped in STUFFED POTATOES Whole peeled pota- beaten eggs, then in flour, fried very quickly toes, made hollow with a column cutter, ends (else they burst) in very hot lard, levelled, the both then steamed, the column POTATO PUFFS Cut out with a large column pieces mashed, and mixed with one-third of its cutter the inside of large raw potatoes, level bulk of grated Parmesan cheese; seasoned with the ends, then cut into four pieces each column, salt and pepper, grated nutmeg and bound with lengthwise. Have two French friers on the some whipped eggs; stuff the potatoes with the rang e half full of lard, one hotter than the mixture, arrange in a baking pan with butter other; fry the potatoes five minutes in the one, and brown off quickly. then take up, and plunge into the very hot one; STUFFED POTATOES Large oval shaped po" they will then puff out quickly, tatoes, peeled, hollowed out as above, filled with POT ATOES BERNHARDT-Twirled out like any kind of forcemeat, placed in a we'.l but^r-d a cud whh a cutterf fried in hot lafd> taken np pan, and baked a delicate brown. and draine d, sprinkled with salt and parsley POTATO CROQUETTES Steamed potatoss' dust. mashed dry, seasoned with salt, butter and a POTATOES VICTORIA The croquette mix- few raw egg yolks, formed into shapes like ture shaped like walnuts, breaded and fried, corks, breadcrumbed and fried. Also shaped GLAZED POT ATOES-Very large balls scooped like olives with two tea spoons, dipped in bat- out of steamed potatoes, seasoned with salt, ter and fried. dipped in beaten eggs, browned quickly in a STUFFED POTATO CROQUETTES Small hot oven. croquettes in the form of cones, breaded and POTATOES NAVARRAISE Cut with a seal- fried, drained; inside then partly hollowed out. lop knife very large dice from peeled raw pota- and replaced with a salpicon; served upright. toes, steam them till barely done, finish of a POTATOES DUCHESSE Potato croquette fine color in boiling oil. mixture, only a little softer, with butter and POTATOES MAITRE D'HOTEL Raw pota- yolks of eggs, forced from a bag with a star toes peeled, cut in sections like a section of an shaped tube, on a buttered pan, brushed over orange, steamed till barely done, then sim- with egg wash and baked. mered till done in a thin Veloute sauce contain- POTATO FRITTERS The croquette mixture- ing chopped parsley, lemon juice, and a grat- with some beaten whites of eggs worked in, ing of nutmeg. shaped, breaded, fried; served with parsley POTATOES INDIENNE Marinade for threa sauce poured over. hours some minced onions and hot green POTATOES ORSINI One part croquette mix- chillies in lemon juice, add a little French ture, one part well cooked rice, one part grated mustard at the finish. Mix all into some light tongue, the whole mixed, formed into small dry mashed potatoes, season with salt, use as a balls, breaded, fried and served. border to a curry, with, or instead of, boiled POTATO CASSEROLES The croquette mix- rice or "ssoto ture shaped liked a small nest, brushed over POTATOES IN CASES Very thin slices of with beaten egg, baked a delicate brown; used cold boiled potatoes and onions, mixed together to receive salpicons. with a little minced parsley, filled into fancy POTATO PATTIES-Very small casseroles, paste cases with a little butter sprinkle with filled with a salpicon of game or fowl. L^^rouT' POTATOES CREOLE-Like the patties preced- poTATOES^HOLLANDAISE-Cut like sec- ing, but filled with a Creole garniture; these tions Qf u steamed; served with maitre make fine entree garnishes. d . hotel sauce Qver them STEWED PARISIENNE POTATOES Scoop POT ATOESMARIE-Steamed potatoes, mashed, out small balls from raw potatoes, put them in- made soft and rich with cream and butter. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. POTATOES GASTRONOME (i) Raw, cut with column cutter, size and shapes of corks, steamed barely done, then fried with butter till done and of a golden color; served sprinkled with salt and parsley dust. (2) Cut same as No. i, parboiled in water containing a little vin- egar, drain, then saute with butter till done, take up and serve with Perigueux sauce. POTATOES MAIRE Cut with a large column cutter tubes of raw potatoes, cut these into slices six to the inch, boil till barely done, then simmer till done in reduced cream. POTATOES MONACO Slices same as Maire, cooked same as Gastronome No. i. POTATOES GENEVOISE Take small fancy patty pans, butter them well, then coat the in- side with grated cheese, fill with mashed pota- toes, sprinkle with grated cheese, bake half an hour in a medium oven. POTATOES CONDE Scoop out balls of raw potatoes with a large scoop, steam barely done, then fry till done and brown in clarified butter, serve sprinkled with salt and parsley dust. POTATOES COLBERT Cold boiled and peeled potatoes, cut in large dice, simmered in Colbert sauce; when serving, sprinkle with parsley dust. POTATOES CHATEAU Olive shapes of pota- toes turned out with an oval scoop, blanched, drained, fried a light color in clarified butter. POTATOES BARIGOULE Take small round new potatoes, steam till barely done, then plunge into boiling oil till brown; serve sprinkle i with salt, pepper and tarragon vine- gar. POTATOES BRETONNE Cut cold boiled potatoes in squares with a scallop knife, saute with a little chopped parsley, then simmer in Bretonne sauce. POTATOES BRABANT Cut like for Bre- tonne, sauteed with minced shallot and parsley. POTATOES BIGNONNE Scoop balls out of raw potatoes with largest sized scoop, take the centre out with a column cutter, blanch, drain, fill centres with forcemeat, then bake till done and brown with butter. POTATOES BRABANCONNE Dry mash some steamed peeled potatoes, mix in some minced parboiled onions, a little chopped parsley and Parmesan cheese, with a little cream sauce, bake in paper cases. POTATOES ANGLAISE (i) Scoop balls out of raw potatoes with a very large scoop, par- boil with a little salt and vinegar in the water, take out, drain, then fry till done and brown in roast meat drippings. (2) Raw potatoes peeled, trimmed, quartered, steamed; served with maitre d'h6tel sauce over them. POTATO SOUP (i) One pound of mashed potatoes rubbed through the tamis, added to one gallon of very thin cream sauce, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, finish with a sprinkling of chopped chervil; serve with crou- tons. POTATO SOUP (2) One pound of mashed potatoes rubbed through the tamis, added to one gallon of thin creamy soup made from white stock, in which has been cooked onion, carrot, celery, salt pork and a ham knuckle; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, finish with a sprinkling of chopped parsley; serve with croutons. POTATO SOUP (3) One pound of mashed potatoes rubbed through the tamis (they should have been boiled in water that hams have been boiled in); use this water in conjunction with veal stock, to make a thin creamy soup, then add the puree" of potatoes, finish with a liaison of egg yolks and cream, remove from the fire, and pour the soup over a braised Julienne of vegetables. POTATO SOUP (4) Three pounds of peeled potatoes sliced with a Saratoga cutter, one large onion peeled and sliced and one head of celery sliced, the whole put into a sautoir with a cupful of melted butter, a seasoning of salt, pepper and nutmeg, put on the lid, and let simmer with an occasional stir till quite done, then rub the whole through the tamis; add this puree to a gallon of chicken consomme, boil up, skim, then add a pint of good cream; serve with croutons. POTATO SOUP (5) Prepare the puree" as given in the preceding (4), add to it the consomme, then finish it with asparagus points, and green stringless beans cut in diamond shapes. POTATO SALADS (See salads). POULETTE The French name for a hen chicken, hence POULETTE SAUCE is made from chicken broth, as follows: Half a cup of melted butter, flour added to form a roux, moistened with one quart of good chicken broth (strained), seasoned with salt, red pepper and nutmeg, brought to the boil and skimmed; then is worked in a liaison of egg yolks and cream, finished with a little lemon juice and chopped parsley. PRAIRIE CHICKEN Is best cooked in three ways, ROASTED, BROILED and in a SAL- MIS. To roast it, first pluck, singe, draw and wipe clean, truss it with slices of bacon tied over the breast, roast it rare; serve with the gravy from the roasting strained into a sauce Bigarade; serve garnished with watercress. . . To broil it, pluck and singe YOUNG birds, split down the back, remove the breast bone, truss out fiat, season with olive oil, salt and pepper, place between a wire hinged broiler; broil rare done; serve on toast with maitre d'hotel sauce poured over, garnish with cress. . . . For salmis, simmer the cooked joints in THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. Madeira sauce; serve garnished with mush- rooms, stoned olives and fancy croutons. Or simmer in Bigarade sauce; serve with sliced oranges and fancy crofitons. In HUNTER'S STYLE is to roast the birds rare, cut in joints, then simmer in sauce Chasseur; serve garn- ished with fancy croutons. . . Another nice way to serve the bird is to take cold roast birds, joint them, trim the joints to a wing shape, dip in sauce Richelieu, roll in fresh grated bread- crumbs, then dip in beaten egg and again roll in the breadcrumbs, arrange them in a well buttered pan, sprinkle the tops with melted butter, place in oven, and let come to a nice brown color, with the butter frothing on them; serve at once with sauce Richelieu. PRO VENC ALE Name of a splendid sauce; also applied to the Southern French style of cook- ing. For the sauce (see sauces). PUFFS Forms of hollow pastry (see fritters). PUMPKIN Name cf a large vegetable fruit of the melon species, grows on vines, the young shoot leaves of which make a most splendid substitute for spinach in the summer months. BAKED PUMPKIN Slices of peeled pumpkin arranged in buttered pan, seasoned with salt, moistened with roast meat gravy, baked and basted till done, served as a vegetable. . . Also not peeled, but baked plain in slices and served like baked potatoes. . . Also slices of peeled pumpkin, steamed for ten minutes, then placed in buttered pan, seasoned with salt and pepper, sprinkled with Parmesan cheese, baked till done and glazy, then served at once. PUMPKIN PUREE Slices of peeled pumpkin, steamed till done, then rubbed through the tamis, seasoned with salt and nutmeg, finished with a little cream and butter; served as a vegetable. PUMPKIN PIE The pumpkin sliced, peeled, steamed and rubbed through the tamis, mixed with a rich custard, flavored with cinnamon and rose water, baked in custard pie pans lined with puff paste. PRESERVED PUMPKIN RIND The thick cut rind of the pumpkin may be preserved in exactly the same way as melon rind(see melon). PUREE Name applied in cookery to vegetables, etc., first cooked then rubbed through a fine sieve; used as a basis to soups, also as a garn- ish to entrees. I will here append the princi- pal purges in general use. PUREE OF ARTICHOKES Peel and slice Jerusalem artichokes, place them in a sautoir with butter and a seasoning of pepper, salt and nutmeg, moisten with a little white stock, boil till done and the broth reduced, then add some cream, reduce and mash till like mashed pota- toes, add a pat of butter, then rub through the tamis. PUREE OF POTATOES made ex- actly the same way, snbstituting potatoes for artichokes. PUREE OF CARROTS Young carrots peeled and sliced with a Saratoga cutter, place them in a sautoir with butter and a seasoning of salt, nutmeg and sugar, place on the lid and let sim- mer to a light brown color, then add a little good white stock, and simmer down to a glaze, rub through the tamis and use as required. PUREE OF CELERY- Celery cut up small, blanched for five minutes, drained, placed in sautoir with butter, season with salt, sugar and nutmeg, moisten with a little white stock, and simmer till soft; when soft and the stock re- duced, add a little Bechamel sauce, rub the whole through a tamis and use as required. PUREE OF PEAS Shelled green peas with a bunch each of mint and parsley and a few spring onions boiled tender, drained, pounded, taken up into a sautoir, seasoned with salt and a little thick white sauce, then rub through the tamis for use. PUREE OF CHESTNUTS Slit large chest- nuts and steam them for twenty minutes, then remove the husks and brown skin, put the cleaned nuts in a sautoir and moisten with a little consomme and simmer till soft and the consomme 1 reduced to glaze, then pound them; season with salt, nutmeg and sugar, add a lit- tle cream sauce, then rub through the tamis for use. PUREE OF SPINACH Wash the spinach free from sand, blanch it, then take up and let it drain well, now chop it very fine, then pound it; place in a sautoir, season with salt, sugar and nutmeg, add a little white sauce, reduce rapidly to preserve its color, add a little butter and a piece of glaze, then rub through the tamis for use. PUREE OF ASPARAGUS Take the green parts of asparagus, wash free from sand, place in a sautoir with some spring onions and a bunch of parsley, boil in salted water till asparagus is tender, then drain all, return to another sautoir, season with salt, sugar and nutmeg, add a little butter and some white sauce, also some white grated breadcrumbs, reduce rapidly, finish with a little green coloring paste and a small piece of glaze, then rub through the tamis for use. PUREE OF TOMATOES Into a santoir put some butter, lean raw ham, minced shallots, a few whole peppers, mace and cloves, two or three bay leaves and a few sprigs of thyme, fry together to a golden color, then add either fresh or canned tomatoes with a little Veloute sauce, reduce rapidly till thick, add a seasoning of salt and sugar, with a piece of glaze and a pat of butter, then rub through the tamis for use. PUREE OF ONIONS Sliced onions blanched for five minutes then drained, placed in a sautoir I 4 6 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. with butter, seasoned with salt, sugar and nut- meg, moistened with a very little white stock, simmered till soft and the broth reduced to glaze, then add some thick white sauce, reduce rapidly, then rub through the tamis for use. PUREE OF SEAKALE Seakale cut small and blanched, then drained, placed in a sautoirwith butter and a little white stock, season with salt, sugar and nutmeg. Simmer till soft, then add some thick white sauce, reduce rapidly till thick, then rub through the tamis for use. PUREE OF MUSHROOMS Canned button mushrooms drained, chopped fine, placed in a sautoir with butter and allowed to fry to a light straw color, then is added the juice of a lemon, and a good cream sauce made with cream aud the liquor from the canned mushrooms; sea- soned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, reduce rapidly, then rub through the tamis for use. PUREE OF LIMA BEANS Fresh green lima beans boiled for a few minutes with some spring onions and a bunch of parsley, also a few sprigs of chives, drained, placed in a sautoir with butter and a small bunch of savory, sea- soned with salt, sugar and a little white sauce, simmered till very tender, then add a piece of glaze and a little green coloring paste, rub through the tamis for use. QUAIL Pluck and singe the quail, split down the back, remove the breast bone, season with salt, brush with butter, broil done to a golden brown; spread the trail on buttered toast, pop it in the oven a few minutes during the broil- ing, place the bird on the toast, brush over with butter, garnish with a little cress and send to table. ROAST QUAIL Pluck and singe the bird, draw it, return the liver, truss; run half a dozen on a long steel skewer; place acrcss a baking pan, letting the ends of the skewer rest on the edge of the pan; sprinkle with salt, dredge with melted butter, roast; serve on toast garnished with a little cress. Sauce Perigueux, or a Financiere garnish may be served with it, but is far from being essential. QUAHAUG or quahog. One of the clam species, the tender part only should be used; in every way of cooking applicable to oysters and clams* QUINCE HONEY Five large quinces grated, one pint of water, five pounds of granulated sugar, boil the sugar and water, add the grated quinces, boil fifteen minutes, pour into glasses, allow to cool before covering. QUINCE JELLY Wipe, but do not peel the fruit; slice it, and remove all seeds. Put them in a porcelain lined kettle and barely cover with cold water, put on the lid, and boil slowly till very tender, then pour all into a flannel jelly bag and let drain without squeezing. To each Dint of juice allow one pound of sugar, put the juice into the kettle, bring to the boil, add the sugar, stir till it is dissolved, then boil rapidly, (skimming the while) till it jellies (about twenty five minutes), then roll the jelly glasses in boil- ing water, and pour in the boiling jelly. Stand aside for twenty-four hours until set firm, then screw on the lids. Keep in a cool dark place. QUINCE MARMALADE Peel, core and slice the fruit, boil with just enough water to cover them, stirring and mashing them till soft; when reduced to a paste, allow eleven ounces of granulated sugar to each pound of fruit, boil twelve minutes, stirring constantly; remove from fire, allow to cool, then fill into jars for use. STEWED RABBIT, GERMAN STYLE Yonng rabbits cut in six pieces, the two legs, breasts and shoulders, and the back cut in halves; wash well, drain, then steep them for a few hours in vinegar containing thyme, carrots and onions sliced; when ready, take the nieces, roll them in flour and fry lightly in butter, put them in a sautoir when fried; now fry some pieces of salt pork in the remaining butter, add them to the rabbit, with some flour, shake to- gether, moisten with stock, simmer and skim; then add some button onions, a little thyme and enough of the vinegar they were steeped in to give a sharp flavor, simmer till tender and serve. FRICASSEE OF RABBIT Legs, backs and shoulders of young rabbits, washed and wiped dry, then lightly fry with butter till the flesh is firm; take up into a sautoir, add some flour, moisten with white stock, simmer and skim; when about half done, add some button onions and mushrooms, also a glass of white wine; when about finished, thicken the sauce with a liaison of egg yolks and cream, season with nutmeg, salt, red pepper and the juice of a lemon. POTTED RABBIT Legs, shoulders and backs of young rabbits, remove the bones from each joint, then place the pieces in individual jars (like bean jars) with diced bacon and mush- rooms. Take the bones and bead, pound them, boil them with carrot, celery, onions and a lit- tle thyme, thicken it slightly, strain, and cover the meat in the jars with it, put on the lids, and bake slowly till tender; serve in the jars. BRAISED RABBIT WITH TOMATO SAUCE Legs and backs of young rabbits, lard them with seasoned strips of bacon, place in a bras- iere with bacon, onions, carrots and a bunch of thyme, moisten with white stock and a glass of white wine, braise till tender and then remove to another sautoir; strain the braise, boil up, skim, then add it to a thick tomato sauce; serve it over the rabbit, garnished with fancy croutons. BROILED SADDLE OF RABBIT Take the THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. whole of the back of the rabbit, soak it in warm salted water for an hour, then take it up and wipe dry, season with salt and pepper, roll in melted butter, dredge with flour, place between a wire hinged broiler and broil it well done over a clear fire, basting with butter during cooking; serve on tcast with m&itre d'hotel butter in which has been incorporated a little red currant jelly. SAUTE OF RABBIT Take the legs and sad- dles of the rabbits, soak in warm salted water for an hour, then drain and wipe each piece dry, season with salt and pepper, roll in flour, fry a golden color with butter, make the sauce in the same pan, boil up and skim, put back the rabbit, add some sliced mushrooms, sim- mer till tender, finish with the addition of a little sherry wine. SMOTHERED RABBIT WITH ONIONS Take the legs and saddles, blanch and drain them, then arrange them in a sautoir, cover with a light brown sauce and let simmer for half an hour; meanwhile fry lightly plenty of onions (the small button ones), add them to the rabbit, simmer till tender; serve garnished with the onions and a fancy crofiton. RABBIT PIE Take the legs and saddles, cut into inch pieces, make them into a saute"; take the hearts, livers and brains, and with the ad- dition of a little grated bacon, breadcrumbs, chopped parsley and a flavoring of thyme make forcemeat balls; lay the rabbit in the pie dish, add the forcemeat balls and some diced bacon, pour over the sauce, cover with a good short crust and bake for one hour. May also be done in individual pie dishes for restaurant and club service, where it is a good seller. RABBIT CUTLETS, TOMATO SAUCE Take thvj legs, roll them first in a mixture of salt, pepper and poultry seasoning, then in flour, dip in beaten eggs, then grated breadcrumbs, place in a buttered baking pan, sprinkle with melted butter, bake slowly for half an hour; serve with tomato sauce. EPIGRAMME OF RABBIT Take the legs and lard them with seasoned strips of bacon, fry one half of them slowly till tender, and braise the other half; when serving, place a line of mashed potatoes down the centre of the dish; on one side place a braised leg dipped in a brown Italian sauce, on the other side place the fried leg dipped in a white Italian sauce, garnish the ends with fancy shaped quenelles made of the hearts, liver and brains. DEVILLED RABBIT Take the legs and sad- dles, boil them for fifteen minutes, let cool, then score them slantwise in three or four places to the bone; make a mixture of melted butter, cayenne, Worcestershire sauce, mus- tard and tarragon vinegar, thoroughly rub into the cuts with the mixture, then slowly broil them of a light color; serve garnished with crofitons and a little of the devil mixture made hot and poured over. BLANQUETTE OF RABBIT Legs and sad- dles of rabbits blanched, then lightly fried with butter, taken up into a sautoir, covered with Veloutfe sauce, simmered till tender; served garnished with button mushrooms that have been saute"ed with butter. FRIED RABBIT CUTLETS Legs of young rabbits, bones removed and their place filled with forcemeat, steam them for ten minutes, then take up and spread a little of the force- meat on the outside, then bread them; arrange in a buttered pan, sprinkle with melted butter, brown off in the oven; serve with a sauce made from the inferior parts. STEWED RABBIT WITH VEGETABLES Prepare the blanquette of rabbit of a preced- ing recipe; serve garnished with balls of carrot and turnip, green peas and small onions. BROILED RABBIT Young rabbits, the legs and saddle cut in one piece, like frogs are cut, seasoned with salt and pepper, broiled well done; served with bacon and maitre d'hotel sauce. RAGOUT OF RABBIT Legs, saddles and shoulders of rabbits, cut into even sized pieces, seasoned with salt and pepper and sauted with butter to a golden color, then add some chopped truffle, mushrooms, parsley and shallot, sim- mer all in the butter for ten minutes, then pour off the waste, moisten with some good espagnole, boil up and skim, then add a piece of chicken glace, juice of a lemon, and a grav- ing of nutmeg, let simmer till nearly done, then add some forcemeat balls prepared from the inferior parts; serve garnished with the quenelles and fancy croutons. RABBIT FILLETS GARNISHED, SAUCE PERIGUEUX Legs and saddles of young rabbits seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, sauteed with butter to a golden color, taken up and drained, placed into a rich Perigueux sauce, simmered in it till done; served with the sauce poured over and garnished with small quenelles of rabbits made from the inferior parts, alternately with button mushroom sau- tees. SALPICON OF RABBIT Take the whole rab- bit and roast it of a light color, well basting it to keep it moist; take up and allow to cool, then cut in small dice, the meat only, add also a few mushrooms, and truffles, a little tongue and sweetbread all cut in small dice, moisten the whole with a rich Veloutfc sauce; serve in fancy croustade cases. MINCED RABBIT ON TOAST Cold cooked rabbit, the meat cut into very small dice, I 4 8 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. moistened with a brown Italian sauce; served on toast with or without a trimmed poached egg. CURRIED RABBIT WITH RICE Legs, sad- dles and shoulders of rabbits lightly fried with minced onions in butter, then taken up into a sautoir, sprinkled with curry powder and flour, moistened with white stock, simmered till done; served with rice. RASPBERRIES A delicions fruit used chiefly as a table fruit, being picked over, then served with cream. Made into puddings, charlottes, ices, creams, meringues, tarts, jellies, trifles, etc., by the pastry cooks; into syrup for flavor- ing; also used as a drink in summer for cooling the blood known as RASPBERRY VINEGAR; made by taking equal measurement of rasp- berries and vinegar, and steeping them for a week, then straining off the liquor, allowing a pound of granulated sugar to each pint of juice; it is boiled, skimmed and bottled for use. RAVIOLES Are essentially poached rissoles or rissolettes; they are made up from any kind of croquette mixture, rolled up the sizeand shape of an egg, then slightly flattened, and laid on a small square piece of NOODLE or SHORT paste, the four ends brought over the top to a centre and slightly pressed together; they are then poached in white stock for six or seven minutes, drained, placed on the serving dish; an appropriate sauce to the croquette mixture is poured over them, then sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese. RAVIGOTE Name given to a sauce, made with plenty of melted butter, flour to form a roux, moistened with good white stock, seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and containing plenty of chopped chives, chervil, tarragon, burnet and parsley. . . Also a cold sauce, which is mayonnaise containing finely minced chives, shallot, tarragon, parsley and chervil. REDSNAPPER, BOILED Clean and scale the fish, place in the fish kettle, cover it with hot water, adding salt and a little vinegar, sim- mer till done (from half to one hour according to size), then raise and drain; serve in portions garnished with Hollandaise potatoes and either caper, matelote, Allemande, Admiral, diplo- mate or Venitienne sauces. REDSNAPPER, BAKED Clean and scale the fish, split it down the back and lift off the two sides free from bones; lay these skin side down in a buttered pan, season with salt and pepper, place in oven till set, then brush liberally with melted butter; bake done and brown, basting well with butter during the cooking; serve in portions with a quarter of a lemon, and a rich tomato sauce made with court-bouillon. REDSNAPPER, SAUTE Prepare the fillets as in the preceding recipe, then cut them in por- tion pieces, season with salt and pepper, roll in flour, saute" them a delicate brown color with plenty of melted butter; when done, take up and drain, sprinkle the surface with finely minced parsley; serve with Parisienne potatoes and either lobster, Genoise, Aurora, Cardinal, Chambord, or Normande sauces. REDSNAPPER, BROILED Clean and scale the fish, split down the back and remove the sides free from bones, season with salt and pepper, brush with melted butter, pass it through flour, place between the wire hinged broiler, broil till done, well basting with butter during cooking; serve garnished with chip or Julienne potatoes, and either Maitre D'Hotel, Genoise, Bearnaise, Eschalote, or Nantaise sauces. REDSNAPPER, STUFFED Clean, trim and scale the fish; cut from the belly part deep enough at sides of bone so as to withdraw it without cutting the skin of the back; stuff with a fish forcemeat, then sew the opening, score the sides, bake with slices of salt pork; serve in portions garnished with Duchesse potatoes and tomato sauce. RHUBARB COMPOTE Young rhubarb cut in finger lengths, placed in enameled pan covered with cold water, slowly brought to the scalding (not boiling) point, then drain. Measure the scalded water, and add to it a pound of sugar to each pint, boil together till of a thin syrupy nature, then pour over the rhubarb. RHUBARB PIE Line the sides of pie dish with short paste, cut the rhubarb into half inch thick pieces, sprinkle well with sugar, a little grated nutmeg and lemon rind, just a little water, cover with short paste, egg wash the top, bake and serve. RHUBARB WITH CUSTARD Cut the rhu- barb into finger lengths, place it in an enam- eled pan, adding sugar and a few strips of candied lemon peel, a little water, place the pan in a slow oven and let simmer till done without breaking the fruit; serve with a spoonful to each portion of thin boiled custard, flavored with vanilla. RHUBARB ] AM Wash the young rhubarb and cut into pieces about an inch long, do not peel it, weigh, and to each pound allow three-quart- ers of a pound of granulated sugar, boil in a porcelain lined kettle, bringing slowly to the boil, then boil and stir continually for forty-five minutes, fill into Mason jars, screwing the lids on tight. RHUBARB JELLY Wash the young rhubarb and cut it into inch lengths, put the cut fruit into a stone crock, put on the lid, stand it in the bain marie, and heat slowly till the fruit is soft; now put a small quantity at a time into your jelly bag, and squeeze out all the juice. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. Measure the juice, and to each pint allow one pound of granulated sugar. Turn the juice in- to a porcelain lined kettle, and stand over a brisk fire. Put the sugar into earthern dishes and stand in the oven to heat. Boil the juice rapidly and continuously for twenty minutes, then turn in the sugar quickly, stirring all the while till the sugar is dissolved. Dip jelly tumblers into hot water, watch the liquid care- fully, and as soon as it comes to the boil, take it from the fire and fill the glasses. RHUBARB FRITTERS Take pieces of the rhubarb from the compote of a preceding recipe, dip in frying batter, fry in deep, hot lard, drain, dust powdered sugar over; serve with rum sauce. RHUBARB MERINGUE Wash young rhu- barb, then cut it into inch lengths; fill a pie dish with the rhubarb, sugared alternately with slices of stale sponge cake; bake in a moderate oven about half an hour, then cover with a meringue sprinkled with colored sugar; return to oven and bake till of a light fawn color. RICE To boil it properly so as to have it in grains when cooked instead of pasty: Take a large saucepan containing plenty of boiling water with a little salt, then sprinkle in the rice, let it boil up, then shift it to a cooler part of the range where it will just simmer, do not stir it, but let it swell itself tender, then turn it into a colander, place the colander in the saucepan, take it to the sink and thoroughly wash it clear with running cold water, then allow to drain dry, then put the drained rice into a receptacle of the bain marie, put on the cover, and let the boiling water surrounding it reheat the rice. . . Rice cooked as above is good to serve with curries, compotes, as a breakfast cereal with cream and sugar, etc. . . Also mixed with a little butter, plenty of tomato sauce and Parmesan cheese it forms Rissoto . . . added to consommes it does not cloud the soup . . . mixed with wheat flour, baking powder, sugar and milk for making rice muffins. KICE CROQUETTES Well washed rice boiled till soft in milk with a seasoning of sugar, a stick of cinnamon, and the peel of a lemon; when done remove the lemon and spice, add a piece of butter, then work in a liaison of egg yolks; turn out into a buttered pan, allow to become cold, then form into cakes with a de- pressed centre, bread and fry them, drain, sprinkle with powdered sugar; when sending to table fill the depression with preserve, and pour a vanilla or wine sauce around the base. CROUSTADES OF RICE Well washed rice boiled till soft in white stock; when done, season with salt, butter and nutmeg, then whip it creamy, adding some Parmesan cheese. Now turn it out into a buttered pan, smooth it well, place a sheet of buttered paper over it, on that a board with a weight; when thoroughly cold, stamp out with a biscuit cutter, double bread, then fry them, drain, scoop out the centres and use the shell for the reception of salpifons, macedoines of fruit or vegetables, etc. RICHILIEU Name of a garnish (see garnishes). RISSOLES Another form of savory croquette; but instead of being breaded and fried, the croquette mixture is divided into even sized pieces, and laid on a sheet of pie paste, cov- ered with another sheet (thin), then stamped out with a fluted biscuit cutter, then fried like cro- quettes in deep hot lard. RISSOLETTES Same as rissoles, but made much smaller and used for garnishing. ROE The eggs of fish, those chiefly used being taken from the shad, codfish, carp and mullet. Recipes will be found under their respective headings. ROLY POLY Name applied to puddings made from a sweet biscuit dough, rolled out thin, then spread with chopped fruit, currants, sul- tanas, etc., then rolled up, tied in a cloth, plunged into boiling water, and boiled; or else placed in a cake or bread tin and steamed till done; served in slices with sauce appropriate. ROMAN PUNCH To lemon water ice when nearly frozen is added Jamaica rum, brandy, and sherry wine in equal parts, and enough meringue to whiten it, then finish the freezing; served in punch glasses with the dinner. ROQUEFORT Name of a French cheese (see cheese). ROULADE Name given to savory rolls of steak. Take thin steaks, spread with a forcemeat, roll up, tie the ends with twine, arrange them in a sautoir with some bacon fat, brown them, then add a little flour, moisten with stock, then let them simmer in the gravy till tender, take up, serve with the twine removed, and garnished with vegetables, mushrooms, etc. ROUX The name given to an equal mixture of butter and flour, used to thicken sauces and soups. Take the sautoir, place in the butter; when melted, add the flour and stir till thor- oughly smooth and heated, then moisten with the stock, milk, etc. . . If for a brown sauce or soup.allow the roux to brown before moistening. ROYAL CUSTARDS Name applied to a com- bination of eggs and a liquid either plain or in conjunction with a solid; used to decorate soups, and also with garnishes; also for garn- ishing galantines, etc. Yolks and whites of eggs separated, stirred to amalgamate (must not be beaten light) with a little milk or stock, then poured into a buttered basin or tin, cov- ered with a sheet of oiled paper, and placed in ISO THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. the steamer where they must be gradually decorated with capers; garnished with aspara- steamed till set; they are then removed and gus points dipped in French dressing, allowed to become cold; they may then be cut BEAN SALAD Take the French beans, bought in slices and afterwards into all sorts of fancy shapes for the purpose required. Into the eggs may also be mixed a macedoine of vegetables, chopped truffles, chopped mushrooms, force- meat, lobster coral, 'green peas, chopped chervil, parsley, chives, tarragon, etc.; and when re- quired for garnishing whole pieces they, after in cans and called "Haricots Verts". Wash and drain them, then moisten with French dressing and send to table in one of the num- erous shaped croustade cases, placed on a leaf of lettuce ... (2) Fresh green lima beans boiled tender, drained, mixed with cream dressing; served garnished with cress, being mixed with whatever solid is used, should BEETROOT AND POTATO SALAD Cut out be filled into small timbale molds so that they of cold boiled b e troo ts small balls; the same can be turned out and used whole. RYE Name of a cereal, used in distilling for whisky, ground into flour for making rye bread, muffins, batter cakes, mush, etc. SALADS. ALLIGATOR PEAR It is either eaten raw with salt and pepper; or sliced and dressed with French dressing; served on a bed of shredded endive. ANCHOVY SALAD (i) Shredded fillets of salted anchovies, garnished with small white pickled onions, capers, and sliced hard boiled eggs; sprinkle a little tarragon vinegar over the anchovies . . .(2) Shredded lettuce and shredded size balls also to be cut out of raw peeled pota- toes; then steamed till done; when cooled, place the potatoes in a Ravigote sauce, the beet balls in tarragon vinegar; dish them up alternately. BEET AND EGG SALAD Large beetroots boiled and cooled, then with the largest sized column cutter stamp out cork like pieces; these slice, also do the same with steamed whites and yolks of eggs. Place some grated horseradish down the centre of the dish, on it place alter- nately a small white pickled onion and a caper; surround the horseradish with the yellow slices, and those with the alternate slices of beet and white egg; serve with cream dressing aside. anchovies, a few minced shallots, all mixed to- CABBAGE SALAD Cut some bacon into dice, gether dry; then moistened with equal quanti- ties of olive oil and caper vinegar thoroughly beaten together. ARTICHOKE SALAD (i) Artichoke bottoms and medium sized onions both cooked and cooled, then sliced and dished alternately; garnished with small balls of cooked beetroot and carrots; served sprinkled with either French or a cream dressing ... (2) Cooked arti- choke bottoms, skinned raw tomatoes; slice both and arrange alternately on the serving dish, sprinkle with finely chopped chervil, then with a French dressing ... (3) Hearts of lettuce finely shred; artichoke bottoms cooked and fry; when done, add a cup of vinegar, a cup of water, season with salt and pepper, bring all to the boil, pour over very finely shred cab- bage, set away to get cold, then serve ... (2) Finely shred white cabbage, seasoned with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar and a little sugar . . . (3) Take a firm green and a firm red cabbage, quarter them, soak in salted water for an hour, then steam them till tender, take out and cool; when cold, shred them very finely, arrange them on the serving dish alternately, two rows of each, placing between each centre row some salad cream dressing containing chopped cher- vil and shallots. cooled, then shred; mixed, then moistened with CAULIFLOWER SALAD (i) Cooked cauli- French dressing and served. ASPARAGUS SALAD (i) Two-inch lengths of cooked asparagus with the head; served on let- tuce leaves, the points piped with cream dress- ing or mayonnaise ... (2) Cooked asparagus heads; raw, skinned, sliced tomatoes. Place the asparagus in the centre of the dish, garnish with the tomatoes; serve with mayonnaise . . . (3) Flowerets of cooked cauliflower in centre of dish masked with cream dressing; garnished with asparagus points moistened with French dressing, decorate with capers ... (4) Flakes of cooker" salmon dipped in a thin Ravigote sauce, flower in flowerets in centre of dish, masked with mayonnaise, garnished with a macedoine of cooked vegetables dressed with French dressing ... (2) Flowerets of cooked cauli- flower in centre of dish masked with a sauce Remoulade; garnished with fancy cut strips of cooked and pickled beetroot. CELERY SALAD~(i) Cut the white celery in two-inch lengths like matches or macaroni; serve dressed with mayonnaise ... (2) White celery cut in dice, mixed with Livournaise sauce; served garnished with slices of stuffed olives. placed overlapping each other down centre of CHICORY SALAD Sbred chicory (endive), twc the dish; garnished with asparagus points, the parts, shred celery, one part, mixed, dressed tips of which should be piped with mayonnaise. and served with French dressing. ... (5) Canned salmon drained; a spoonful in CODFISH SALAD Salt cod well soaked and centre of dish masked with a mayonnaise and boiled in two separate waters. coole Steam them , tiU half ^ sprinkled with salt and pepper, then sprayed with then , let them be > me ver ? cold ' serve on let ' mixedoliveoilandtarragon vinegar. . ^) Well tuce leaves - w ' th Rav 'g te sauce " washed and drained lettuce leaves finely shred OYSTER PLANT SALAD Cold boiled oyster and served with French dressing. . . (3) Broad P lant - cut in fin g er lengths; when very cold, shred lettuce leaves and finely shred spring season them with salt and pepper, dip the ends onions, sprinkled with salt and pepper, then in Ravigote sauce, arrange on fancy strips of sprayed with mixed olive oil and tarragon vin- cooled toast (like asparagus) and garnish with egar. . . (4) Finely shred lettuce seasoned with as P ic J ell y- THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 153 OKRA SALAD Okras blanched, drained and with salt and pepper to taste, then moisten with quartered; served on a bed of shredded endive; one part of vinegar to three parts of olive oil; pour over French dressing containing chopped serve on a bed of shredded lettuce and garnish chives and chervil. with eggs. PARTRIDGE SALAD Cold trimmed joints of SALSIFY SALAD Cold boiled salsify, mixed roast partridge, marinaded in tarragon vinegar with French dressing, in centre of dish, garn- and olive oil. (One in two add salt, pepper, ished with small balls of steamed potatoes minced chives and chervil); serve on a bed of moistened with cream dressing, shredded lettuce, pour the marinade over, SCOTCH SALAD Two parts of diced celery to the marinade over, garnish with sliced eggs, capers and gherkins. ... (2) Cold roast partridge cut in dice, marin- aded for two hours in French dressing, drain it, then mix the partridge with an equal amount of diced white celery; place the salad on a leaf of lettuce, mask with a mayonnaise, garnish with minced pickle and chopped capers. POTATO SALAD Cold boiled potatoes sliced, little minced onion and chopped parsley, mixed and seasoned with salt, pepper, oil and vine- gar. . . (2) Slices of cold boiled potatoes, shred- ded salt anchovies, chopped parsley, pepper, salt, French mustard, tarragon vinegar and cream salad dressing, all mixed together and served on lettuce. . . (3) Sliced thin cold boiled potatoes, thoroughly mixed with French dress- ing, adding a little more vinegar. . . (4) Sliced cold boiled potatoes, sliced onion, chopped parsley, fried bacon in dice with its fat, salt, pepper and cream salad dressing, all mixed together and served on lettuce. . . (5) Balls of potatoes scooped from peeled raw ones, steamed till done, then cooled, moistened with Hollan- daise sauce; served on lettuce and sprinkled with finely chopped chives and chervil. ROMAINE SALAD Broad shredded Romaine lettuce leaves, sprinkled with salt, pepper, oil and tarragon vinegar. RUSSIAN SALAD Cooked salad of carrots, parsnips and beetroots cut in shapes; pieces of fowl and shredded anchovies, mixed together and seasoned with combined oil, vinegar and French mustard; served garnished with olives and caviar. one part of flakes of cooked salmon; season with oil, salt and vinegar; serve on lettuce, mask with mayonnaise, garnish with sliced egg and stuffed olives. SHR P SALAD Shrimps marinaded in oil and vinegar, drained, mixed with shredded celery in inch lengths, dressed with mayon- naise, garnished with stoned olives, capers, hard boiled eggs and coiled shrimps. SPANISH SALAD Peeled tomatoes sliced and arranged on dish with pickled small white onions, mayonnaise in centre. . . (2) Shredded endive garnished with quartered peeled toma- toes and quartered eggs, yolk removed and its place iilled with shrimp paste. The endive to be sprinkled with minced sweet peppers and shallots, oil, salt, pepper and vinegar. SOUTHERN SALAD Take tender okras, trim the ends, boil till tender, drain, let become very cold. Dip some sweet peppers in hot fat and take off the skins, then finely shred them like matches, mix them with the okras and serve with mayonnaise. . . (2) Boil till done some green peppers, let them become very cold, then shred them like matches and serve with French dressing. SWEDISH SALAD Cut into dice an equal quantity of cold meat, boiled potatoes, green apples, pickled herring and salted anchovies, mix into it some chopped gherkins, capers and hard boiled eggs, mix all; serve on lettuce with French dressing and garnish with stoned olives. . (2) Cooked ham, smoked tongue, roast SWEETBREAD SALAD-SI ices of cooked sweet- bread dipped in flour, fried with butter, then cooled and trimmed; shredded lettuce in centre of disb with salad cream dressing; sweetbreads masked with mayonnaise, arranged around the lettuce; garnish with slices of radishes and beetroot. beef, chicken and mutton cut in dice, shredded salt anchovies; season and mix with Tartar sauce;serve within a border of shredded lettuce. RADISH SALAD Take round red and white radishes, thoroughly clean them, then cut in halves, arrange the halves alternately, skin side up, on a bed of shredded lettuce, sprinkle TARTARE SALAD Shredded lettuce, pickled cucumbers, pickled onions and pickled her- ring; slice the cucumbers and cut the herring in dice, mix together, season with a little oil with French dressing and garnish with stuffed olives. and vinegar, and finish with Tartare sauce* serve on lettuce. SARDINE SALAD Hard boiled eggs and boiled onions in slices, sardines in fillets, dished up in alternate layers, sprinkled with French dress- ing containing chopped parsley, chives and TOMATO SALAD Sliced peeled tomatoes mar- chervil. inaded in French dressing, drained, sprinkled SALMON SALAD Equal quantities of cooked beet and raw celery minced, then mixed to- gether; boiled salmon in flakes added; season with salt and pepper. . . (2) Sliced peeled to- matoes sprinkled with Parmesan cheese mois- tened with Rhine wine and olive oil. 154 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. VEAL SALAD Equal quantiti.ss of cooked veal and boiled potatoes cut in dice with some white celery; seasoned with salt, pepper and cream salad dressing; served on lettuce, garnished with eggs. WATERCRESS SALAD Crisp, cleaned and picked watercress, seasoned with salt, pepper and vinegar. COMBINATION SALADS Slices of cold boiled potatoes, Brussels sprouts boiled and cooled, flowerets of boiled cauliflower, and shredded celery, arranged neatly in salad bowl with trench dressing. . . (2) Shred lettuce, endive, sliced tomatoes, spring onions and radishes, tossed lightly together with French dressing. . . (3) Slices of potatoes even in size, slices of truffles and minced shallots, dressed with oil and caper vinegar. . . (4) Yolks of eggs rubbed through a sieve, chopped egg whites, gherkins, chervil and soy, mixed with a little dressing composed of French mustard, essence of an- chovies, pepper and white wine vinegar, garn- fshed with sliced potatoes, beetroot and celery. FRENCH DRESSING Four parts of olive oil to one part of vinegar, white or tarragon, a lit- tle onion juice, finely chopped parsley, salt and pepper. CREAM DRESSING One cup each of white vinegar and melted butter, one dessert spoon of dry mustard, one teaspoon of paprika, eight yolks of eggs, one quart of whipping cream. Boil the vinegar, butter and seasonings to- gether; pour it ihen to the beaten yolks, stir over the range till like custard, remove and cool, then whip the cream and beat it into the dressing. HOLLANDAISE DRESSING One pint of white vinegar, one quart of milk, one cup of oil or melted butter, one basting spoonful of dry mustard, one teaspoon of red pepper, one tablespconful of paprika, twelve eggs, salt to taste. Boil the vinegar with the seasonings; meanwhile separate the yolks and whites, and beat them separately; bring the milk to the boil and pour it to the yolks, then add the boiling vinegar, stir on the range till it just thickens like mstard (do not let it boil or it will curdle). \Viien of the custard consistency, remove from the fire and beat in the whipped whites with ue melted butter or oil, then put away to cool lor use. SALAMANDER Name given to a heated iron plate used for quickly browning the gratinated surface of certain dishes of escalloped foods, etc. In some kitchens the dish is placed on the ashes under the hot bars of the grate; in others a small shovel is made hot. Where there is a gas oven with a top cooking surface the dish may be placed under the grill. All tend to the same purpose, thai or quickly obtaining a brown surface without further cooking the in- terior. SALMI SALMIS These two words each sig- nify a form of stew, and seldom are they prop- erly used. It is always applied to game. SALMIS is used when the stew is made from cold cooked game that has been left over from a previous meal. SALMI is a stew made from fresh cooked game specially roasted at the time required to make the stew for the coming meal. SALLY LUNN Name applied to a light sweet yeast raised tea cake; served split and buttered, fresh and hot. SALMON, BOILED If small, boil whole; if large cut in two or three. Put to boil in boil- ing salted water, laying the fish on a drainer, boil a minute, raise the drainer, let the water boil very rapidly, then plunge fish and drainer in again, then repeat the operation and allow to boil till done. By this method the albumen of the fish coagulates and the flesh eats much better. Serve with plain melted butter, Hol- landaise, Allemande, caper, Bechamel, fennel, cream or butter parsley sauce. SALMON, BAKED The fish should be small. Scale, trim, wash and dry it, turn the thin flap of the belly inwards and tie it with thin twine; cover the fish then with a fish forcemeat; bake and baste till done; serve in portions with Genoise or Perigueux sauces. SALMON, BROILED Scale, trim, wash and dry the fish, then cut in equally thick slices, season with cayenne pepper and salt, dip in olive oil, roll up in oiled paper, tuck in the ends and pin with a toothpick, plunge into hot fat and cook for 7 to 10 minutes according to the thickness, then raise the frying basket, let it drain for a minute; then put the cutlet, still in the paper, on the broiler, broil till nicely marked, remove the paper, place on dish; serve with Tartar, Genevoise, fine-herbs or mSitre d'h6tel sauces or with anchovy or Montpelier butter. SALMON STEAKS OR CUTLETS Boil them in boiling seasoned white fish stock till done and serve with lobster, oyster, cucumber or supreme sauces. Saute them with clear butter a delicate brown and serve with Aurora, Milan- aise, Veloute, gherkin, piquante, or ravigote sauces. SALMON (COLD, BOILED) May be served with sliced cucumbers, Tartar, ravigote or mayonnaise sauces. SALMON CROQUETTES Take flakes of cold boiled salmon and shred them, season with red pepper and salt, also a dash each of anchovy and Harvey sauces. Then mix the fish wifh one-third of its bulk of fresh mashed potatoes; turn on to a dish, smooth it over, allow to be- come cold, then shape pieces of the mixture THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 155 into small flat cutlets like a cutlet from the tail of the fish; bread and fry them and serve with cream or fennel sauces, garnish with Hol- landaise potatoes. SALMON, SMOKED May be boiled and served with cream sauce. . . Broiled and served with devil or drawn butter sauce. . . Fried in oil and served with lemon sauce. . . Toasted and served with maitre d'hotel sauce. SALMON, MAYONNAISE OF Take the center cut of a salmon, curl the flaps under and tie with cayenne pepper, some pounded anchovies of anchovy essence. Used for boiled fish such as: boiled bass, cod, plaice, haddock, halibut, her- ring, kingfish, pike, rockfish, weakfish, and shd roe. ANDALUSIAN SAUCE Into a rich tomate sauce, work some grated lean cooked ham, and a little minced (fried) garlic. Used with braised meats, such as larded tenderloin of beei, fri- candeau of veal, legs or saddles of mutton, and haunch of venison. twine, boil in seasoned fish stock till done, re- APRICOT SAUCE A syrup sauce containing move and skin, then allow to become cold apricct marmalade and a flavoring of Catawba (retaining its shape), place on dish, mask well wine. Used for timbale of apples, charJotte of with mayonnaise, decorate the mayonnaise with apples, apple puddings, apple fritters, lobster coral, garnish with watercress; serve. AVIGNON SAUCE Equal quantities of a Sou- bise puree" and a good Bechamel sauce com- bined together with the addition of a little crushed garlic, Parmesan cheese and olive oil; bring it to the boil, then thicken with a liaison of egg yolks, strain and use for boiled legs of mutton, boiled fowls and capons, stewed part- ridge, boiled pheasant, boiled salt leg of pork, fried sweetbreads, chicken croquettes, sweet- bread croquettes, pickerel . . . pike or muskallonge . . . boiled sheephead . . . boiled weakfish . . . Mackinaw AURORA SAUCE-Into some reduced Espag- nole sauce work enough lobster butter to give SALSIFY For recipes, see "Oyster plant". SAUERKRAUT See "cabbage". SAUCES AND THEIR USES. ADMIRAL SAUCE Into a good butter sauce made with white seasoned fish stock, work some pounded anchovies, minced fried shal- lots, chopped capers, o.. d a. little grated lemon rind. . . Serve with bluefish saute . . . boiled trout. ALBERT SAUCE Into a good butter sauce made from veal or other white stock, work some grated horseradish, minced fried shallots, chopped parsley, tarragon vinegar; boil up again, then strain, then finish with a liaison of egg yolks, a pinch of mustard and chopped parsley. Serve with braised fillet of beef, any braised beef. . . It is also used to poach eggs in when an addition of curry is given to it for "Eggs Indienne style". See eggs. ALLEMANDE SAUCE Into a good Veloute sauce, work some lemon juice, a little mush- room catsup, cayenne, butter, yolks of eggs, a grating of nutmeg, then strain. It should be yellow, and smooth as velvet. Serve with boiled pig's feet . . . braised eels . . . fried carp . . . paupiettes of sole . . . boiled codfish . . fried haddock . . . fried fillets of mackerel . . \ baked perch . . . baked shad . . . baked trout . . . boiled chicken . . . boiled pheasant . . . fried pike. It is also the foundation of many other sauces, fish especially. ALMOND SAUCE A sweet custard sauce con- taining pounded and shredded almonds, also a dash of ratafia. Served with fig fritters . . . almond custard fritters, etc. ANCHOVY SAUCE Anchovy butter worked in- to a good Espagnole sauce. Used for broiled steaks, baked fish, and as a filler for steak and oyster pie. ANCHOVY SAUCE Into a well made butter aauce work in the juice of a lemon, a dash of the sauce an orange color ... Or work lobster butter into a Bechamel sauce ... Or take two parts Bechamel and one part tomato sauce, adding also a little mushroom catsup and lob- ster butter. In either of these combinations add the juice of a lemon, a dash of cayenne pepper and tarragon vinegar. Used for baked carp, boiled cod steak, baked fillets of soles, halibut steak saute, salmon steak saute, fillets of trout saute", boiled trout; also used in pre- paring "eggs a 1'Aurore" (see Eggs). BAVARIAN SAUCE Boil some vinegar to half its original volume with some butter, a little horseradish, salt and grated nutmeg; beat some yolks of eggs, then pour the boiling mixture to it to make like mayonnaise, strain, then beat in a little more butter, and some lobster roe, beat till creamy and frothy, then use for cold fish, and fish salads. BECHAMEL SAUCE Into some reduced cl?. : ck' en broth, add some mushroom essence or puree", an equal quantity of rich milk or cream, a season- ing of mace; bring to the boil, then thicken with roux (flour and butter), strain. Used for boile* chicken, scalloped codfish, scalloped halibut, scalloped turbot, scalloped sweetbreads;chickeru turkey and sweetbread croquettes: also for mix- ing with green peas, asparagus points, mace- doine of vegetables, etc. when used for garnish- ing. BEARNAISE SAUCE Braise some shallotr with a little tarragon vinegar, add some rich- thin Veloute sauce, simmer, then add some I 5 6 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. beaten yolks of eggs; when like custard, re- croquettes, roast capon, omelet of chicken liv- move from the fire, then beat in melted butter ers, and quenelles of turkey. at the rate of three tablespoons to the pint, BRETONNE SAUCE, HOT Into some Espag- work in the juice of a lemon, a little cayenne nole, work a pure< of fried onions, finish with pepper, then strain and finish with some finely chopped parsley. Used with roast mutton, chopped parsley and tarragon. Used for braised saddle of mutton, cutlets of mutton, broiled steaks, roast fillet of beef, broiled braised ox cheek, and grenadins of pork. sweetbreads, lamb fries, veal and lamb cutlets. BRETONNE SAUCE, COLD A spoonful each BEYROUT SAUCE Fetch to the boil one and a of mustard and sugar, with two spoonfuls of half pounds of butter with two minced medium grated horseradish, worked into a half pint of sized onions, a basting spoonful of tarragon vine- tarragon vinegar. Used with cold roast or gar and the same of common vinegar, a half pint braised mutton, beef, ox tongue, roast pork, of Espagnole, a half cupful each of mushroom e tc. catsup and Harvey sauce; simmer, skim, then CAPER SAUCE Into a good butter or Veloute boil till creamy, remove from the fire, finish sauce> work in some whole capers and a little with a litcle sugar and anchovy essence. Used tarragon vinegar. Used with boiled mutton, with cold fish and fish salads. boiled fresh ox tongue and boiled pigs feet BIGARADE SAUCE- -Take equal quantities of C APER SAUCE FOR FISH Make a white game and Espagnole sauces, and work in the rouXi moisten it with a light CO nsomm<, season juice and grated rind of Seville or other bitter it with cayennei grated nutm eg, essence of orange. Used for braised fillet of beef, stewed anc hovies, lemon juice, and capers, with a dash duck, fried duckling, roast duck. of caper vinegar. Used with broiled salmon BOHEMIAN SAUCE Make some panada with ste ak, broiled carp, baked codfish, boiled red chicken or veal broth, and work into it some mullet, boiled pike, boiled sheephead, boiled grated horseradish and a little butter. (A re d snapper, boiled shad, and braised salmon white bread sauce, used with roast partridge). trout. BOUERGOISE SAUCE Into a pint of thin CARROT SAUCE Into some Veloutfe sauce Espagnole, work a spoonful each of chopped WO rk a pure of young carrots. Very good for parsley, chervil, tarragan, meat glaze, French boiled beef. mustard and sugar, bring it to a simmer, then CARDINAL SAUCE-Into a good Veloute sauce add the juice of a lemon. Used with forcemeat work some lobster butteri a little anc hovy es- balls; in garnishing fricandeaus of veal, car- sence lemon j uice) cayennei essence of mush- bonades of mutton, roulade of veal. sautS of rooms> ^ lobster roe or shrimps> rubbed pigs feet (boneless), and braised ox heart. through a tamis. Used with boiled chicken BOURGIGNOTTE SAUCE Into some Espag- and caponi bou dins of lobster, paupiettes of nole, work some minced fried onions, sliced so i e s, ragout of mullets, fillets of perch, stuffed truffles and mushrooms, finish with some Bur- and bra i se d carp and pike, boiled salmon, fillets gundy wine. Used with braised small game o f turbo t and halibut, fillets of soles and boiled birds, braised carp, whole carp stewed in red sturgeon. wine fried cutlets of sturgeon mutton cutlets CAULIFLOWER SAUCE-Into a good butter butter sauce work some minced fried shallots, chopped parsley and white wine. Used with CELERY SAUCE, WHITE-Into some hght matelote of eels, paupiettes of soles, boiled Allemande sauce work a puree of celery. Good mackerel, crimped cutlets of pike, boiled hali- with boiled turke y and white entre<5s of turke y but, turbot. wings. BORDELAISE SAUCE, BROWN-Into some CELERY SAUCE, BROWN-Into a good thick- Espagnole, work some minced fried shallots, ened roast poultry gravy work in some finely and garlic, red wine, cayenne pepper, chopped cut celer y and simmer it till done. Very good parsley, lemon juice and slices of beef marrow . * roast poultry, and dry, brown entrees of Used with broiled steaks and almost any braised poultry. red meat . . . Omit the marrow and add fillets CHASSEUR SAUCE Into equal parts of Es- of anchovies and a little anchovy essence, it is pagnole and tomato sauces, work some minced then used with braised fish, also baked and fried onions, sliced mushrooms, chopped pars- broiled fish. ley and lemon juice. Used with mutton cut- BRESSOISE SAUCE Into some Madeira sauce, lets sautee"s, saut of partridge, veal cutlets, work a puree 1 made of chicken livers, panada, roast prairie chicken, roast black game, braised fried minced shallots, grated rind and juice of small game birds, venison steak, cutlets of roe- an orange. Used with roast chicken, chicken buck, roast young rabbit, 'egs of rabbit saute, THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 157 fillets of hare or jackrabbit, and braised larded ribs of beef. CHANTAUSEN SAUCE A syrup sauce flav- ored with cloves, cinnamon, bay leaves and Chantausen wine. Used for puddings and sweet entree's. CHATEAUBRIAND SAUCE One pint of Es- pagnole, a half pint of meat glaze, a half pint of white wine, simmer, strain, then beat in a half pint of maitre d'hotel sauce. Used with broiled steaks, fillets of beef. CHAMBORD SAUCE Into a pint of Veloute, work a half pint of white mushroom puree, a piece of chicken glaze, a glass of sauterne, and a spoonful of lobster butter. Used with fillets of bass, baked bass, pike, carp, fish croquettes. CHAMPAGNE SAUCE Into a pint of Espag- nole, simmer a half pint each of sherry wine and vinegar with a little sugar. Good with roast ham. CHADEAU SAUCE A foaming sauce of eight yolks and two whites of eggs, juice of a lemon, half a pound of sugar, a quart of chablis, whipped over a slow fire to boiling point. Used for sweet entree's. CHAUDFROID SAUCE Take some carcasses of roast game or poultry and a bunch of mixed garden herbs, cover with good stock, simmer for several hours, strain, skim, boil up again and add enough gelatine to make a brown jellied gravy. Used with roast poultry. CHERRY SAUCE Sweet, butter sauce, con- taining cherries that have been stewed with port wine and sugar, then rubbed through a sieve. Used for sweet entree's. CHEVREUIL SAUCE Into one-third part Es- pagnole sauce, one-third tomato sauce and one- third stock, add a little thyme, a bunch of pars- ley, two or three bay leaves, some minced fried shallots, a spoonful of white pepper, some tar- ragon vinegar and butter; reduce it to one-half of its original bulk, strain, finish with currant jelly, Harvey sauce and port wine. Used with roebuck and venison, roasted, filleted, braised, etc. CHILI SAUCE Chop together six tomatoes, four green peppers, one onion, add them to a pint of white wine vinegar, with one teaspoon of sugar and a little salt, simmer for one hour, strain, bottle. Used as a table condiment. CHILI SAUCE Into a good Bechamel sauce, work some minced red peppers, tomatoes, shal- lots and minced parsley, finish with melted batter, catawba wine and lime juice. Good with veal cutlets, pork tenderloins, boneless pigs feet, stewed catfish, lamb fries, fricadelles, broiled beef palates, pickled lamb tongues. CLAREMONT SAUCE Minced onions fried in oil, drained, then added to a thick veal gravy. Good with roast veal. CLARET SAUCE A foaming sauce of grated lemon rind, powdered cinnamon, eggs, sugar and claret, whipped over a slow fire to boiling point. Used with puddings and sweet entrees. COLBERT SAUCE Into a pint of Espagnole, work in a spoonful of meat glaze, a little cay- enne, lemon juice and chopped parsley, make very hot, but do not boil, then very gradually beat in a cupful of melted butter. Used with broiled meats, and most cutlets. COURT - BOUILLON SAUCE Into a butter sauce that has been made from the stock of boiled fish, add some rings of boiled onions and chopped parsley. Used with boiled codfish, boiled haddock, braised eels, boiled rockfisb, boiled plaice, boiled weakfish, boiled redsnap- per, and boiled salmon trout. CRAPAUDINE SAUCE Take equal quantities of Espagnole and tomato sauces, combine them, then add some minced gherkins, shallots, chives, olives and capers, a little mustard, tarragon vinegar, minced mushrooms and a glass of sherry wine. Used with braised brisket of beef, broiled pork chops, frog legs, boiled calf's head, broiled pigeons, fried saddles of rabbit, calf's liver saut6, braised fillets of hare, broiled opossum, braised turtle fins, and venison. CREOLE SAUCE Into a good tomato sauce, work in some chopped blanched sweet peppers, minced fried shallots, a little Madeira sauce and Madeira wine. Used with scallops of fillet of beef, ragout of beef, chicken saute, pork rissoles, honeycomb tripe cut in finger lengths and stewed down rich in it, catfish steak saute, tomatoes stuffed with crab meat, fried oysters, timbales of spaghetti, boiled spaghetti with minced ham made hot in it, broiled pork kid- neys and lamb fries, pork tenderloins, fried spareribs, veal chops sautees, timbale of calf brains, croquettes of beef, beef sweetbreads sautees, minced mutton cutlets. CREVETTE SAUCE Into a cardinal sauce work some pieces of shrimps and anchovies. Used with boiled crimped codfish, boiled plaice and flounders, fillets of Spanish mackerel, boiled trout and whitefish, fried soles. CUCUMBER SAUCE Into a good butter sauce work a puree of cucumbers or some slices of encumber fried with butter. Good for boilec 1 salmon and trout. CURRY SAUCE Into a Veloute sauce, boil r ham knuckle for an hour, then remove anr. work in a liaison of egg yolks beaten with curry powder; simmer, strain. Used with pork chops, pork tenderloin, fried veal chops and cutlets, and tripe. CZARINA SAUCE Into some Espagnole work the juice of a lemon, some minced gherkins and I 5 8 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK seedless raisins, boil till the fruit is soft, then serve with boiled ox tongue. CURACOA SAUCE A butter syrup sauce con- taining curacoa. Used with puddings and some sweet entrees in the fritter line. CUSTARD SAUCE Boiling milk or cream poured to and whipped in to half a pound of sugar and six beaten eggs to each quart of milk; flavored as desired, but generally with nutmeg or vanilla. Used with puddings and sweet en tree's. CRANBERRY SAUCE-Cranberries stewed with tugar tih soft, then rubbed through a sieve. Used with roast turkey. DIABLE SAUCE Three tablespoonfuls of melted butter, three of meat glaze, one of sugar, half a cupful of mushroom catsup, and the same of white wine, juice of a lemon, and enough cayenne pepper to make it as hot as its name implies; thoroughly incorporate while making it hot, but do not allow it to boil. Used with broiled steaks, broiled kidneys, broiled ham steaks, broiled live lobster, broiled pork FINE HERBS SAUCE veal, a shin of beef, and let them fry brown; then add slices of carrots, onions, turnips, cel- ery, parsiey, thyme, marjoram, savory, bay leaves, cloves, allspice, peppers; when browned, add sufficient flour to form a roux. Let the flour brown also Then moisten gradually with a rich clear brown stock; boil up and skim, then add plenty of tomatoes; boil and skim again, then add two or three chickens (old ones, useful for salad afterward) or roast fowl car- casses; simmer slowly for several hours, then strain off into a clean sautoir; then add a gallon of consomme", and reduce rapidly till of a good consistency; strain off again and finish with good sherry wine. This is one of the grand stock sauces which form the basis of most of the brown sauces used. YOU CANNOT BE TOO PARTICULAR IN ITS PREPARATION, FOR IF THE FIRST PROCESS IS NOT SUCCESSFULLY EFFECTED, NO SUB- SEQUENT CARE WILL REMEDY THE MISCHIEF. Saut^ together with chops and spareribs. DIABLE SAUCE Another way of making is to take one-third stock and two-thirds of good Espagnole, and work into them some Worces- tershire sauce, cayenne pepper and made mus- tard, then simmer and strain. DIPLOMATE SAUCE Into a good Bechamel sauce, work some crayfish butter and a little court-bouillon. Good for most boiled white fleshed fish. DUCHESSE SAUCE Into a pint of tomato butter some minced parsley, shallots and mush- rooms, season with a little pepper and nutmeg; after about five minutes, pour off the waste butter, and add a ladle of good Espagnole if for brown, or a ladle of good Veloute sauce if for white. Used with scallops of mutton, scallops of hare and rabbit, fried reed and rice birds, saute" of soles, brook trout baked in cases of paper spread with the sauce, roulade of beef , stuffed calf's heart, roulade of veal, veal chops and cutlets, broiled steaks, brains, sweetbreads, lamb fries. sauce work in half a pint of lean cooked ham FENNEL SAUCE Into a good butter sauce, in small dice, half a cupful of white wine, a work a spO onful of chopped fennel leaves, little glaze, bring to the boil, remove from the fire, and then beat in a half pint of Hollandaise sauce. Used with pork, veal and mutton chops> plain macaroni, Vienna steaks, pork tenderloin and spareribs, ham croquettes, fried tripe, epi- gramme of sweetbreads, braised breast of veal, roulade of mutton, fried boneless pigs feet breaded, rechauffe of mutton, fried chicken D'UXELLES SAUCE Into a Veloute sauce, work some white wine, minced mushrooms, grated tongue and chopped parsley ... Or else use Bechamel sauce and work in minced pars- ley, shallots, mushrooms and grated ham. It is used for coating cutlets prior to their being breaded and fried. EGG SAUCE Into a butter sauce, work in some chopped hard boiled eggs and the juice of a lemon. Useful for all kinds of plain boiled fish. ESPAGNOLE SAUCE Two pounds of good cooking butter placed in the bottom of a large sautoir; into it then place, chopped in good sized pieces, two ham knuckles, three shins of Looks like parsley sauce. Used with boiled mackerel and boiled salmon. FINANCIERS SAUCE Into a quart of good Espagnole, work a little meat glaze, cayenne, a half pint of Madeira wine, a half pint of mush- room liquor or mushroom catsup, and a few minced mushrooms and truffles Used with roast or braised black game and grouse, . . . boudins of game, . . . sauteed fillets of fowls, . . . larded and braised legs of fowls, . . . boned, stuffed and braised saddle of lamb, . . . paupi- ettes of ox palates, . . . for heating a salmis of partridge, . . . for a filling to raised pies of game, rabbits and quails, . . . roast pheasant, . . . boned, stuffed and braised quails, . . . larded and braised fillets of rabbits, . . . braised sweetbreads, . . . turkey stuffed with veal force- meat and roasted, . . . veal chops larded and braised, . . . larded and braised fricandeau of veal, . . . larded and braised woodcocks. FLEMISH SAUCE (i) Into a butter sauce, work a little grated nutmeg, chopped parsley tarragon vinegar, and a liaison of yolk of eggs THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 159 with a little mustard. (2) Make a quart of veg- thick, work in half a pint of brandy and a grat- etable cream sauce, then take a cupful of the ing of nutmeg. A good pudding sauce, red part of carrot, mince it, boil till done, add GOOSEBERRY SAUCE Into a Veloute sauce, it to the sauce, together with some chopped work a pure 6 O f stewed green gooseberries. It is liked by many with boiled mackerel. HAM SAUCE Into a Madeira sauce, work some minced shallots and grated ham that have been fried together, finish with the juice of a lemon. Used with roast veal. cucumber, pickles, parsley and grated horse radish. Used with boiled beef. FUMET SAUCE Into a good Espagnole, boi' some game carcasses, strain and finish with port wine. Used with roast game. GENEVOISE SAUCE-Into a good Espagnole, HANOVER SAUCE-Take chicken livers and add a little grated ham, carrots, minced onions, boil them< ^^ rub throagh the tamiS| add a few bay leaves, cloves, a clove of garlic, some thyme and parsley, boil fifteen minutes, add some claret wine, strain, and finish by beating in anchovy essence and butter to taste. Used with braised eels, baked pike, broiled salmon, broiled red snapper, fricandeau of sturgeon, baked trout, baked whitefish, brook trout, braised sheephead, baked pickerel, baked Span- ish mackerel, baked and stuffed bluefish, black- fish saute. GENOISE SAUCE Equal quantities of Espag- nole and court-bouillon sauces boiled together cream sauce, lemon juice and a dash of cay- enne, little salt, make hot but do not boil. Used with roast poultry. HARROGATE SAUCE After roasting veal and poultry, take the roasting pan, add sonv* minced shallots and grated lemon rind, bak till shallots are brown, then add some flour and stir it with the residue in the pan from tht roasting, moisten with stock to the proper con- sistency of sauce, then add some mushroom catsup, cayenne, claret wine and lemon juice, boil up, strain and skim. Used with roast veal and poultry. for ten minutes with the addition of some port wine, ground mace, essence of anchovies and AT ,T^ ATT /-.T- ^ walnuf catsup, then strain, finish with a little HARD SAUCE-One pound of powdered sugar chopped parsley. Used with larded and braised eels, fillets of bluefish, roast carp, baked cod steak, roast eels, baked haddock, baked Span- ******* UDCeS f g d butter worked to ~ ff th ? r *&<*"** Some add grated nutmeg. Used wlth P lum P uddin *' ish mackerel, baked mullet, braised pike and HA VRAISE SAUCE- Make a good butter sauce pickerel, baked salmon, braised sheephead, with stron g broth from boiled fish, then beat broiled fillets of red snapper, baked sturgeon, in * liaison of egg yolks and cream. Good for baked trout, baked or braised carp, boiled char, a11 P lain fi sh boiled. matelote of eels, broiled mackerel, boiled HOLLANDAISE SAUCE One cupful each of salmon steak, roast turbot and halibut. GERMAN SAUCE A foaming sauce, made of twelve eggs beaten fifteen minutes. Now place into a sautoir half a pound of powdered sugar and a pint of Marsala wine, make hot, but do not boil, then beat in the eggs with the juice of a couple of lemons, whip till thick and frothy without boiling. A rich pudding sauce. GIBLET SAUCE The trimmed and finely shred gizzards, livers and hearts of poultry stewed tender and added to the thickened and strained gravy of roast poultry and served with it. GODARD SAUCE Fry some slices of ham, car- rots and onions in butter till brown, then add a quart of good cider, simmer for half an hour, then add a can of mushrooms minced, and their liquor, reduce for ten minutes, then strain it into a quart of good Espagnole, and boil till creamy. Used with braised fowls, braised capons, braised turkey, roast ham, boned, stuffed and braised saddle of lamb, braised leg of mutton, carbonade of mutton. GOLDEN SAUCE (Sauce Doree*) Half a pound of butter beaten till very creamy; into it dis- solve half a pound of powdered sugar, now beat in the yolks of two eggs over the fire; when white vinegar and butter, a half cup of lemon juice, two cupfuls of chicken stock, little salt and cayenne, boil, then pour it, beating the while, to a liaison of egg yolks till thick like custard. Used with boiled sea bass, boiled cod- fish and haddock, fillets of codfish, boiled eels, boiled plaice and flounders, boiled halibut, boiled kingfish, boiled perch, boiled rockfish, boiled salmon, boiled sheephead, boiled weak- fish, boiled sturgeon, boiled whitefish, cauli- flower, asparagus. HORSERADISH SAUCE Fresh grated horse- radish boiled in white stock, seasoned with pepper and nutmeg, then is worked in a liaison of egg yolks and tarragon vinegar. MUST NOT BOIL after liaison is added. Used with boiled beef, broiled steaks . . . Another form for roast beef is to add the grated root to thickened and strained roast beef gravy, add- ing a little Worcestershire sauce . . . Again, for cold roast beef, simply grated horseradish seasoned with salt and white vinegar. Some add to this a little cream sauce. INDIENNE SAUCE Braise together some ham trimmings, a few anchovies, onions, green apples, thyme and whole peppers, then add i6o THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. curry powder to taste, fill up with Veloute sauce, boil, add the juice of a lemon and a few beaten yolks, beat till creamy, then strain for use with pork chops, pork tenderloin, fried veal chops and cutlets, fried tripe, fried chicken, roast veal, fried calf's head, fried sweetbreads and lamb fries, cannelons of ox palates, fried pigs feet, fried saddles of rabbit. ITALIAN SAUCE, WHITE Into a Veloute sauce, work some minced and fried shallots and mushrooms, chopped parsley and white wine. For ITALIAN SAUCE, BROWN, substitute Espagnole for Veloute, and Madeira for the white wine. Used with calf's head, boiled calf's tongue, broiled calf's liver, fried pigs feet, attereaux of rabbit, broiled tripe, stuffed turkey legs, sautee'd artichokes, braised black game and grouse, fried calf's feet, capilotade of chicken, boiled chicken, boudins of salmon, sautee'd fillets of haddock, fried larks, rice and reed birds, roast pheasant, croquettes of rabbit, chicken and turkey, fried skate, boiled trout, fillets of turbot and halibut, scallops of veal and ham, breaded pork tenderloin. JARDINIERE SAUCE Take a small column cutter and cut out columns of carrots, white and yellow turnips; slice them quarter inch thick, add some very small button onions; fry all in butter with a little sugar; when brown, add a little stock and simmer till done, then drain them; when drained, place them into a rich Espagnole sauce, adding some cooked green peas, finely cut stringless beans and very small pieces of cauliflower Used with braised beef- boudins of partridge, braised calf's liver, braised capon, braised duck, braised neck of mutton, larded and roast leg of lamb, boned and braised leg of mutton, braised ox cheek, boiled salted ox tongue, fricandeau of veal, roast breast of veal, boned, stuffed and braised breast of veal fOLIE-FILLE SAUCE Half a pint of panada two small onions sliced, two yolks of hard boiled eggs, one pound of veal or poultry meat, all boiled with one quart of Veloute sauce; when done, rub through the tamis, and bring to the sauce consistency with boiling milk; fin- ish with a little chopped parsley. Used with boiled chicken, boiled capon, boiled turkey, sweetbreads, croquettes of veal, fowl, turkey, sweetbreads, lamb, and boudins of white meat. LIVOURNAISE SAUCE Into a mayonnaise work some pounded anchovies and chopped parsley. Used with cold fish. LIVERNAISE SAUCE Out of carrots, white and yellow turnips, scoop very small balls steam them till barely done, then drain, and fry with a little butter and sugar to glaze them; then add them to equal parts of Espagnole and tomato sauces; simmer till done. Used with saut6ed cutlets of veal, mutton, fricandeaus of veal, braised legs and saddles of mutton, fillets of beef, braised fowls and capon. LYONNAISE SAUCE Into a combined sauce of two-thirds tomato and one-third Espagnole, add rings of onions that have been lightly fried with butter and then drained. Used with sau- te"ed fillets of fowls, broiled pork cutlets, roast leg or sparerib of pork, saute"ed legs or saddles of rabbit. LOBSTER SAUCE Into a butter sauce work some lobster roe, pieces of lobster meat, lemon juice and a dash of cayenne. Used with cro- quettes of lobster, boiled haddock, cod, pike, whitefish, pickerel, plaice, saut6 of red snap- per, lobster cutlets, croquettes of shad roe. MADEIRA SAUCE Powdered sugar, Madeira wine, yolks of eggs and grated lemon rind beaten together over fire till thick. Used with puddings and sweet entries. MADEIRA SAUCE Equal quantities of Espag- nole and tomato sauces well flavored with Madeira wine. Used with steaks, cutlets, ten- loin of beef, broiled liver, fried chicken, broiled calf kidneys, braised fillets of hare, partridge, roast pigeon, roast prairie chicken, brochette or epigramme of rabbit, cutlets, croquettes and rissoles of rabbit, glazed sweetbreads, broiled turtle steaks, braised turtle fins, broiled veal cutlets, kromeskies of veal, broiled venison steak. MAITRE D'HOTEL Sauce Into melted butter add lemon juice, chopped parsley and a little grated nutmeg. Used with broiled steaks, fried calf brains, broiled boneless pigs feet, broiled snipe, broiled sweetbreads, brochette of fowl and turkey, broiled woodcock and partridge, artichoke bottoms, broiled soft shell crabs, broiled frog legs, broiled lobster, broiled fresh mushrooms, broiled oysters; broiled fish such as sea bass, blackfish, fillets of striped bass, bluefish, cisco, haddock, finnan haddie, hali- but, herring, kingfish, Spanish mackerel, fresh mackerel, salt mackerel, gray mullet, fillets of pike and pickerel, smelts, salmon trout, brook trout and whitefish, shad. MATELOTE SAUCE Into a butter sauce work some boiled button onions, scalded mussels and oysters, a flavor of garlic, essence of anchovies, lemon juice and a dash of cayenne. Used with boiled carp, crimped codfish, conger eel, skate, sturgeon, bluefish, baked codfish and boiled red snapper. MATELOTE SAUCE Equal quantities of veal broth and white wine, some tarragon, parsley, bay leaves, pepper and salt; boil ten minutes, add a little Veloutfc sauce and strain. Used with veal entrees, roast veal and boiled calf brains. MAINTENON SAUCE Braise some ham trim- mings, chopped shallots, parsley and mush- THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 161 rooms with a little sugar and lemon juice; take out the ham, add some Veloute sauce, reduce, finish with a liaison of egg yolks, then strain. Used with croquettes of white fleshed meats and fowls, boudins of white meat, etc., and for heating pieces of cooked white meat, etc., for developing into entries. MAYONNAISE SAUCE Take raw yolks of eggs, beat in a little olive oil; when it becomes like butter, add some salt, then a little more oil, then dry mustard and cayenne; then alter- nately oil, vinegar and lemon juice, till thick enough to spread. Used with salads, cold fish, and with aspic jelly to make aspic mayonnaise. MILANAISE SAUCE Into equal quantities of Veloutfe and Supreme sauces, work some Par- mesan cheese. Used with boiled capon, calf's sweetbreads, boiled chicken, boiled leg of lamb, breaded mutton and veal cutlets, quen- elles and boudins. MINT SAUCE Finely chopped green mint and a little grated orange rind placed in a tureen, vinegar brought to the boil with enough sugar to take off the rawness; poured to the chopped mint, etc. ; served with roast lamb. MUSHROOM SAUCE (WHITE) Into a Vel- oute or Bechamel sauce work a pure of mush- rooms, and some sliced button mushrooms that have been lightly fried with butter; season with lemon juice and cayenne. Used with boiled chicken, capon, pheasant, partridge, sweet- breads, legs and saddles of rabbits, turkey wings, croquettes and rissoles of poultry, sweet- breads, veal, etc. MUSHROOM SAUCE (BROWN) Into equal quantities ox Espagnole and tomato sauces, work in some mushroom pure"e and sliced but- ton mushrooms that have been fried with but- ter; a little chopped parsley, lemon juice and Madeira wine. Used with roast fillet of beef, braised sirloin of beef, broiled steaks, braised ox and calf tongues, scallops of calf's liver, braised veal, braised fowls, broiled pigeons and young rabbits, cromeskies of sweetbreads, broiled sweetbreads, broiled tripe, braised turkey legs, roulade of veal, stuffed shoulder of veal, fricandeau of veal, venison chops, broiled veal chops and cutlets, broiled chicken, Ham- burgher and Vienna steaks, braised ox heart, stuffed calf's and sheep hearts. N ANTAISE S AUCE-Into a white Ravigote sauce, work in some pounded lobster and coral. Used with fillets of fish such as soles, pompano, kingfish, bass, pickerel, red snapper, trout, whitefish, also with carp and shad roes. NAPOLITAINE SAUCE Into some Espagnole, work a little currant jelly, seedless raisins and port wine. Used with braised capon.braised sweetbreads, braised fresh ox tongue, braised venison, braised turtle fins. NEAPOLITAN SAUCE Braise some vegetables and bacon with garden herbs; when done, add equal quantities of Espagnole and tomato sauces, some game glaze and Madeira wine, simmer twenty minutes and then strain. Used with braised game chiefly. NEAPOLITAN SAUCE Into a good Espagnole, work some currant jelly, grated horseradish, grated ham, port wine and Harvey sauce. Used with braised meat. NICEOISE SAUCE Into some cold Veloute sauce work a liaison of hard boiled yolks of eggs rubbed through a sieve and mixed with oil vinegar, mustard, chopped chives and pars- ley. This is a good cold sauce for cold meats. NORMANDE SAUCE Equal quantities of court-bouillon and scalded oyster liquor thick- ened lightly with roux, then with a liaison of egg yolks and cream. Use with eels, filleted sole, plaice, trout, pike, pickerel, whitefish, halibut NONPAREIL SAUCE Into a Hollandaise sauce work some sliced fried button mushrooms, minced truffles, lobster coral, lobster butter and some slices of hard boiled whites of eggs. Used with boiled white flesh fish ONION SAUCE, WHITE AND BROWN Into a Bechamel sauce simmer minced onions till tender. Into equal quantities of Madeira and Espagnole sauces simmer till tender some minced fried onions. The white is generally used with boiled mutton, and the brown with roast and braised mutton. ORANGE SAUCE Into a brown poultry thick- ened and strained gravy, simmer till tender some shredded orange peel and finish with the -juice of an orange. Used with roast and braised ducks. OYSTER SAUCE Into a sauce Poulette, work some scalded and cut up oysters, also some of the scalded and strained oyster liquor. Used with boiled white flesh fish, boiled capon, boiled chicken and boiled turkey. PARSLEY SAUCE Into a butter sauce, work some chopped parsley. Used with plain boiled fish, boiled chicken, calf's head; dipping cut- lets of meat and fowl in before breading; also for mixing in with foods in preparing various entries. PASCALINE SAUCE Take some thin white Italian sauce and raw egg yolks with the juice of a lemon, simmer till creamy, strain, add some chopped and blanched parsley. Used with boiled poultry, sweetbreads, for reheating entrees of the same, calf's head, calf brains, pigs feet, turkey wings, grenadins of veal. PERIGUEUX SAUCE Into a Madeira sauce work some minced and fried shallots, a little meat glaze, anchovy butter, sliced truffles and 162 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. Madeira wine. Used with fillets of beef, sweet- breads, croquettes of poultry and game, stuffed pheasant legs, quenelles of turtle, cromeskies of veal, braised small game birds, roast black game, boudins of poultry, carp stewed in wine and drained, fried fillets of hare and rabbit, roast turkey, roast pheasant, larded and roasted pork, veal cutlets, filleted woodcock. PIQUANTE SAUCE Minced pickles, shallots, olives, capers, a spoonful each of lemon juice and caper vinegar, mixed into a Madeira sauce, simmered for a few minutes and served with boiled beef, pigs feet, calf's head, boiled tongue, calf's liver, carbonade of mutton, fried or broiled young pigeons, pork chops and pork tenderloin, braised venison, venison rissoles, broiled and fried tripe, antelope, bear, veni- son and buffalo steaks. PORTUGUESE SAUCE Reduce with half a pint of sherry wine, a bay leaf, thyme, mace, peppercorns, cloves, for ten minutes, then add half a pint of Espagnole and half that quantity of consomme"; let the whole boil slowly till of the required consistency, skim, then strain and use with braised fillet of beef. POIVRADE SAUCE Fry together with butter of a light brown color a diced carrot, diced onion and a head of celery, a slice of lean ham diced, some thyme, parsley, blade of mace, bay leaf, and a few bruised peppercorns; then moisten with half a pint of sherry and the same of white vinegar. Reduce to half its volume, then add a ladle of Espagnole and a little con- somme 1 ; boil up, skim, strain, and use with braised mutton, braised roebuck, cannelons of ox-palates, saute of rabbits and hares, roast young rabbit, broiled legs and saddles of rab- bit; legs and saddles of cooked rabbit, cooled, then breaded and fried; larded fillets of veni- son, venison chops and braised venison. Another way of making POIVRADE SAUCE is to take equal quantities of Espagnole and tomato sauces, work in some minced shallots, a bunch of parsley, bay leaves, a tablespoon of white pepper to each quart, along with two ounces of butter and two tablespoonfuls of vin- egar; reduce to half its volume, strain, then finish with a little Harvey sauce, port wine and red currant jelly. POLONAISE SAUCE Make a sauce with veal broth and boil in it some grated horseradise, juice of a lemon, chopped fennel or parsley leaves and a little sugar; season with salt and nutmeg, strain and use with roast veal. PAPILLOTE SAUCE Fry together for five minutes slowly a slice of bacon scraped, two scraped onions and two cloves of garlic, and some minced mushrooms, then moisten with a quart of Madeira sauce, boil up, finish with chopped parsley. Used with cutlets of food that are first sauteed, cooled, dipped in sauce, then placed in cutlet papers and slowly broiled, such as salmon cutlets, mutton cutlets, part- ridge cutlets, halves of boned squabs, cutlets of veal. POULETTE SAUCE Make a white sauce with strong chicken broth, then work in a liaison of egg yolks and cream; strain, finish with the juice of a lemon and some chopped parsley. Used with artichoke bottoms, blanquette of lamb fries and lamb sweetbreads, boudins of poultry, boiled capon, boiled chicken, boiled turkey, entree of calf or lamb tails, inch lengths of stewed cucumbers, eels that have been stewed with a little wine, lamb's feet simmered in white broth till tender, scallops of sweet- breads, scallops of veal, boiled calf's head, stewed pig's feet, stewed turtle fins, stewed breast of veal, lamb and mutton. PROVENCALE SAUCE Four hard boiled egg yolks, four anchovies, a spoonful of capers, a little chopped tarragon, parsley, chervil, a clove of garlic, a seasoning of salt, pepper, a wine glass of olive oil and half of vinegar. Pound the whole, then rub through a tamis; finish with a little chopped parsley and lemon juice. Used with broiled eels, but mostly with fish salads. PROVENCALE SAUCE Stew together for five minutes, four bruised cloves of garlic, some thyme, parsley stalks, spoonful of capers, bay leaf, and the pulp of a lemon with a little olive oil; then moisten with a ladle of espagnole, add a pinch of pepper and a piece of glaze. Let the whole simmer for a quarter of an hour, then rub through the tamis; finish with a little anchovy butter. Used with roast fillet of beef, calf's brains fried in batter, carp stewed in white wine, braised ducks, braised leg of mutton; braised cutlets of mutton, cooled, then spread with a stuffing on one side only, re- heated and served; braised boned ox cheek, salmis of partridge, scallops of sweetbreads, scallops of veal. PROVENCALE SAUCE Into some espagnolt work some minced fried mushrooms, onions, tomatoes and a clove of garlic. Used with braised beef. RAVIGOTE SAUCE Into a Veloute sauce work a pure"e of parsley and tarragon leaves, some minced fried shallots and a little white vine- gar. Used with calf brains, ox piths fried in batter, roast partridge, skinned perch boiled in white wine, fillets of turbot, fillets of halibut and other white fleshed fish. RAVIGOTE SAUCE Into a mayonnaise work a pure"e of chives, chervil, parsley, tarragon and shallots. Used with cold meat and meat salads. RAVIGOTE SAUCE Take a small teacup and THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 163 put in a third each of tarragon vinegar, chili lightly fried grated ham, minced shallots and vinegar and Harvey sauce; pour the cupful garden herbs. Used with boiled beef and thus obtained into a small sautoir and boil it tongues. . . (3) Made mustard, tarragon vine- down to half the quantity, then add half a pint gar, salt, pepper, sugar, and grated horseradish of butter sauce and a ladlespoon of mixed stirred together. Used with cold meat, chopped chives, chervil, parsley and tarragon. SAGE SAUCE Good for roast pork and goose. Used with boiled poultry and fillets of fish. Make a brown gravy in the pan with the resi- REGENCY SAUCE Braise some ham trim- due of the roasting, add some chopped sage mings, shallots and onions, then add equal leaves, simmer for 15 minutes, then strain and quantities of chicken glaze, espagnole and to- skim. mato sauces, boil slowly for twenty minutes STE MENEHOULD SAUCE Make a cream then strain and use with braised meat, game sauce and boil in it some minced onions till and poultry. tender, strain, then add some chopped parsley REGENCY SAUCE Cut an eel of a pound and minced mushrooms, simmer for ten min- weight into thin slices and boil gently with a utes, skim, then use with boiled pigs' feet, pint of claret, adding cloves, mace, thyme, bay boiled calf's head and feet, calf's brains and leaf, carrot, mushrooms, an onion and a little ears, salt pigs' head, ox piths and ox palates, salt, for half an hour, then rub the whole SCALLOP SAUCE Into a good butter sauce, through a tamis. Put the essence then into a wor k some cut cooked scallops and their sautoir and aid a ladleful of espagnole; boil, strained and skimmed liquor. Used with plain skim, finish by working in some essence of boiled fish. truffles, anchovy butter, nutmeg, lemon juice SHALLOT SAUCE Into a sauce made from and a knob of sugar. This sauce is admirably the res idue of roasting poultry, game or suck- adapted for every sort of colored fleshed fish. ling pig _ work some butter and minced shallots RAIFORT SAUCE Into a Veloute sauce work that have been stewed in sherry wine, and use some grated horseradish and a little white vin- with the meats mentioned, egar. Used with fresh boiled beef, salt beef SICILIAN SAUCE Take some veal stock and and fresh boiled ox tongues; also some like it boil in it a ham knuck i e , a head of celery, a with steaks. ck)ve o{ crus h e d garlic, the peel of a lemon, a REMOULADE SAUCE Pounded hard boiled f ew cloves and crushed coriander seeds with a yolks of eggs rubbed through a sieve, mixed bay leaf; reduce to one half, add a little roux with olive oil, vinegar, dry mustard, minced and white wine, strain, skim, and use with garlic, chopped parsley and parsley juice. roast or boiled poultry. Used with frog legs, cold meat and meat salads. SHRIMP S AUCE-Into a good butter sauce, REFORM SAUCE -Another form or name of work some cut shrimps, lemon juice, cayenne Poivrade sauce, (which see). pepper and anchovy essence. Used with RICHELIEU SAUCE Into a white game sauce, boiled fish, fish croquettes, and many fish work some minced fried onions and a little entrees. white wine. Used with game birds. SORREL SAUCE Into a Veloute sauce work a ROE SAUCE Into a butter sauce, work apure*e pure"e of sorrel. Used with boiled beef, of fish roes, using the soft roe or milt. Used S OUBISE SAUCE Boiled onion pulp worked with plain boiled fish. into a Supreme sauce. Used with boiled mut- ROYAL SAUCE Into a Veloutfc sauce, work a ton ... roast and braised black game and pure"e of chicken and bread panada; finish with grouse . . . boudins of poultry . . . braised legs a liaison of egg yolks and cream. Used with and necks of mutton . . . larded and braised boiled capon, boiled chicken, sweetbreads, pheasants and partridges . . . larded and roast boiled turkey, boiled partridge, pheasant, neck of pork . . . larded and braised sweet- cushion of veal. breads. ROBERT SAUCE Minced fried onions, dry SUPREME SAUCE Make a rich Veloute sauce mustard, a little meat glaze and white wine with reduced chicken liquor, then finish with mixed into espagnole or other brown sauce. pure cieam. Used with delicate entees such Used with roast pork, broiled or fried pork as boudins of breasts of chicken, lamb sweet- tenderloins, pork chops, and many entrees of breads, and delicate white fleshed fish . . . pork. saute"ed fillets of chicken, garnished with scal- RUSSIAN SAUCE-Into a Veloute sauce work lo P s of ton S ue ^iled capon . . . boiled some grated horseradish and vinegar, then P rairie hen sweetbread and chicken pat- work in a liaison of egg yolks and cream. . . (2) ties - and vol-au-vents. Into a Veloute sauce work some grated horse- SULTANA SAUCE Into a good game sauce, radish, vinegar, sugar, white wine, then some work some seedless raisins, simmer till tender, 164 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. finish with port wine and use with roast game espagnole till soft, then strain. Used with in general. roast ducks. TART ARE SAUCE Into a mayonnaise sauce VERTE-PRE SAUCE Into a Veloutfc or white work some finely chopped parsley, gherkins, ravigote sauce work a pure'e of chives, spinach chives, capers and shallots. Used with breaded and tarragon leaves. Used with boiled eels. and fried fillets of chicken and capon . . . frog VINAIGRETTE SAUCE Minced shallots, legs . . . sweetbreads . . . eels cut in fiuger chopped parsley, oil, vinegar and a little salt lengths . . . broiled salmon steak . . . fried calf and caye nne carefully blended together and brains . . . fried tripe . . . fried butter fish. used with cold pigs - eet and pick i e d lamb TOULOUSE SAUCE One pint of Hollandaise tongues. sauce, half cup of white wine, half cup of YORKSHIRE SAUCE Into some espagnole, minced mushrooms, little chicken glaze, mix work a little currant jelly, por t wine, orange together, then bring to the simmer, without j uice and . fine i y shredded boiled orange peel. breaking or curdling. Used with boiled and Used with roast ham stewed poultry . . . sweetbreads. SAUERKRAUT-A preparation of cabbage (see TOMATO SAUCE Take equal quantities of cabbage). good stock and tomatoes, a veal and a ham gCALLOPS-A broad flat shelled fish, white in shank, a few herbs, sliced vegetables, and bay color _ whh pink gills Used in many ways as leaves; two or three cloves of garlic are option- ters; such as .. saut( ed", "scalloped", "fried al; boil all till vegetables are done, thicken with - n ^^ ,, breaded and f^^ ,- baked and roux, strain, add a little sugar. Used with served on the half shell", "stewed" and in soup. broiled steaks, chops, veal and pork chops SCRAPPLE-Generally termed "Philadelphia pork tenderloin . . . fried sweetbreads and lamb , , , . , . W is pigs' head brawn with corn meal ries . . . broiled calf kidneys . . . fried chicken , , . . . , boiled together, then set in blocks, afterwards breaded or in batter . . epigramme of sweet- . Q J^ ^ {ried for breakfas ; of s breads . . . quenelles of turkey . . . grenadms of veal . . fried or broiled tripe . . . ham- SEA KALE-A vegetable resemb ing in appear- burger steaks . . . fried or broiled pigs' feet . . . f nce a head of "^ " 1S cooked .' fried ciscoes . . . codfish steaks . . . fried had- llke asparagus, boiled and served with butter, dock and halibut . . . filleted pike and muskal- Hollandaise or Espagnole sauces; also after be- longe . . . fried smelts . . . broiled weakfish, in g boiled and cooled, is cut up and mixed whftefish and trout ... broiled and fried oys- ^ith endive and lettuce and used as a salad with ters . . . venison chops and steaks, etc. etc., French dressing. and is used in conjunction with other sauces. SEMOLINA Name given to a preparation of TORTUE OR TURTLE SAUCE Equal parts wheat like Farina. It is used in the making of of tomato and espagnole sauces, into which puddings; as a soup and sauce thickening; also work some sliced mushrooms, garden herbs mixed with pressed bread in the preparation of and sherry wine, the grated rind and juice of a sausages, as it takes up more fat and water. lemon, and a few minced shallots. Used with SHAD Name of one of our best fish. To be calf's head. broiled it should be split, back and rib bones TRIANON SAUCE Equal parts of Bearnaise removed, seasoned with olive oil, salt and pep- and reduced tomato sauces carefully blended per, then placed between the wire hinged together. Used with broiled steaks, sweet- broiler, cooked over a medium fire, served with breads, calf brains, etc. maitre d'hotel butter, and garnished with pars- VELOUTE SAUCE Into some strong chicken le X and quartered lemon. and veal broth boil a small piece of pickled PLANKED SHAD The fish cleaned, split, pork, a small bunch of garden herbs, a few car- bones removed, made fast to the plank, cooked rots and onions, a little salt, sugar and pepper, under a salamander or in a quick oven; served simmer slowly till the pork and vegetables are on the plank, with maitre d'hotel butter. done, then thicken with white roux; simmer B AKED SHAD Take a full sized shad, clean gently, taking off the fat and scum as it rises trimi score the sideS( wipe dryi t h en season till of a smooth velvet appearance; then strain with salt; place them in a buttered pan and through a hair sieve. It is used as a basis for cover the fish with sma n pieces of butter; put other sauces. j n a medium oven and cook for fifteen minutes, VENITIENNE SAUCE Court-bouillon thick- then pour over the fish a small ladle of stock, ened with white roux, simmered and skimmed; some tabasco sauce and a cupful of cream; re- add chopped parsley and lemon juice; finish turn to oven and bake till nicely done; then lift with a liaison of egg yolks and cream. Used the fish on to the serving platter, garnish with with boiled fish. maitre d'hotel potatoes, pour the strained and VERJUICE SAUCE Boil some green grapes in skimmed sauce over the fish and serve. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 165 BOILED SHAD Clean, trim and score the SHORTBREAD A name given to a sort of cake, sides of the fish, place on the drainer of fish much used by tlie Scotch people, kettle, cover the fish with boiling water, add a SHRIMP Name of a thin shelled fish, used gen- little salt, simmer till done (about thirty min- erally after being boiled, trimmed and shelled; utes), lift, drain; serve with either caper or lob- always to be had in cans. The Barataria shrimp ster sauce, and garnish with small boiled pota- j n cans are as good as can be purchased. Made toes- into salads, sauces, omelets, patties, bouchee*s, FRIED SHAD Fillet the fish into serving por- croquettes, in the preparation of appetizers, etc. tions, season with salt and pepper, dip into SMELT Name of a small delicate fish which beaten eggs containing flour enough to make a has the flavor of cucumbers. To be cooked is soft batter, then fry a delicate golden color in drawn from the gills, seasoned with salt, rolled deep fat; drain; serve with chips and lemon. in fl our and S autee"d with butter, or breaded BAKED STUFFED SHAD Scale and trim the and fried . . . Broiled; or run on skewers and fish, split down the belly and withdraw the broiled. bones; season with salt and pepper; stuff with SNIPE _ A small game bird; may be roas ted, forcemeat made of a pound of whitefish broiledi riedi made into bou dins, pies, galan- pounded in the mortar with half a pound of tines salmis soaked and squeezed dry bread, quarter pound of butter, four yolks of raw eggs, juice of a SOLES-Name of a delicate flat fish As there lemon, chopped parsley, salt and pepper to are few to be had m the Umted States the taste. When stuffed, sew up the opening, flounder and plaice is substituted. For recipes score ihe sides, place in buttered pan, brush of cookin g- see F1 d *r. over with melted butter, bake till done; serve SORREL Name of a vegetable. Used in soups, whoie or in portions with miitre d'hotel sauce sauces; served plain or mixed with spinach as a and a garnish of fancy potatoes. vegetable; puree"d as spinach, and used as an SHAD ROE Keep the roes whole, lay them in accompaniment to veal, pork, fried sweet- cold water for an hour, trim, wipe dry; then breads, brains, etc. season with salt and pepper, roll in flour, fry in SOUFFLE Name given to a very light pasty lard; serve with chip potatoes, a slice of bacon, preparation of meats, or sweets; of the omelet and quartered lemon . . . Also boiled and served order. with cream sauce and garnished with Hollan- SOUPS See heading of any meat, etc., wanted; daise potatoes . . . Breaded whole if small, or a i so "consommes", blanched, split, then breaded and fried; served with Parisienne potatoes, lemon and parsley. . . Broiled and served with bacon, garnished with SPAGHETTI An Italian solid paste like maca- roni. Used in every way like macaroni; for Julienne potatoes and lemon . . . Made into cro- recipes of which, see "Macaroni". quettes and served with lobster sauce . . . Also SPINACH A vegetable good for the stomach, blanched, mixed with Hollandaise sauce and scalloped. SHADDOCK A dessert fruit from the West Indies (see grape fruit). SHALLOT Name of a small onion, very mild in flavor. Used in the preparation of delicate sauces and soups. SHEEPSHEAD Name of one of our seafish, so called on account of the shape of its mouth be- ing like that of a sheep; also its having two because not only its own properties are ab- sorbed but the life sustaining qualities of that with which it is prepared: for spinach from Greenwhich plain boiled and eaten as a greens may be all right; but to those who live at hotels, clubs, etc., it is prepared as a puree", richly endowed with cream, butter, gravies, etc., well seasoned with salt, pepper and NUT- MEG; and when used either as a vegetable, garniture, in an omelet, or as an accompani- ment to roast or borled ham, it is good. similar rows of teeth^ It is boiled and served SQUAB _ Name iven to a young pigeon . For with caper sauce and garnished with Hollan- ~~.. __ .. p f geon 7 daise potatoes . . . Baked and served with pi- ecipes ' quante sauce, garnished with Parisienne pota- SQUASH - A vegetable of the melon order, toes . . . Broiled and served with Venitienne peeled, cut in pieces, plain boiled or mashed, butter, garnished with Saratoga chips . . . Sau- then served as a vegetable; cut in slices and te(d and served with brown Italian sauce, baked or steamed, then the pulp removed, garnished with Duchesse potatoes . . . Braised mashed and used instead of pumpkin for pies, and served with Creole sauce, garnished with SQUIRREL Either the red, gray or black, may small potato croquettes. be practically used in all the ways of spring SHERRY Name of a Spanish wine. Used with chickens; and are relished too. dinner service, in making cobblers, jellies, STILTON Name of a prime English cheese sauces, etc. (see "Cheese"). 166 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. STRAWBERRIES One of the choice table CASSEROLE OF SWEETBREADS Line the fruits eaten with cream and sugar; crushed and casserole with boiled rice, arrange the interior mixed into ices; made into tarts and pies, jel- with lamb sweetbreads in fricassee, bake and lies, shortcakes, meringues, charlottes, etc. serve in the casserole. STURGEON Name of a large fish that is sold CROUSTADES OF SWEETBREADS Into skinned as catfish are. Used baked and served the fancy croustade cases (now to be purchased with Remoulade sauce . . . larded as a frican- by the dozen or barrel), serve the fricassee of deau and served with bacon and mushroom sweetbreads above. sauce . . . braised with herbs and vegetables BLANQUETTE OF SWEETBREADS Slice and served with the strained aad skimmed the sweetbreads into even slices with corre- braise . . . broiled in steaks and served with spending slices of truffles, moisten with a su- piquante sauce . . . stuffed, baked and served prSme sauce; served within a border of well with Bourgignotte sauce . . . boiled and served cooked rice grains. with Genevoise and Hollandaise sauces. EPIGRAMME OF SWEETBREADS Lard, STERLET Name given to the young sturgeon. braise and glaze one half of the quantity of SUCCOTASH Name given to a combination of sweetbreads required, the other half to be cooked corn and lima beans. Used as a vege- breaded and fried a golden color; place one of table. each against fancy toast; serve with tomato SWEETBREADS The name given to two sue- sauce. culent pieces of flesh of the calf, ox and sheep, CURRY OF SWEETBREADS Beef sweet- that adhere to the throat and heart. Before breads are as good as any {or this> Take the using in the preparation of dishes, they must breads, soak for two hours in warm water, boil first be blanched, trimmed and skinned. till tender, clean and trim them, then press be- SWEETBREADS WITH SPINACH Lard the tween plates till cold; slice them and fry with sweetbreads with seasoned strips of pork, ar- butter a golden color; then fry sliced onions, range them in a brasiere with bacon, herbs, add flour to form a roux, moisten with the vegetables and stock; when done, take out; strained and skimmed stock the sweeetbreads serve on a bed of spinach puree 1 , with the were boiled in, add curry powder to taste, sim- strained and skimmed braise poured over them. mer, skim; serve within a border of well boiled SCALLOPED SWEETBREADS Sweetbreads grains of rice. and button mushrooms cut into dice, sautee'd SWEETBREADS WITH KIDNEYS Take with butter, surplus butter then poured off, large veal sweetbreads, blanch, cool, press and moistened with Veloute sauce, filled into seal- trim them, then lard them with strips of truffles, lop shells or dishes; sifted breadcrumbs and a Beat to a froth .he whites of three eggs, into little Parmesan cheese strewn on top; baked a it then mix some finely chopped pistachio nuts; delicate brown and served. roll the truffled sweetbreads in the egg, then in- FRICASSEE OF SWEETBREADS Sweet- sert in buttered paper cases, bake till of a nice breads cut in even sized pieces; button mush- color, remove the paper, place the sweetbread rooms sautee'd, added to the sweetbreads; moist- on a circle of buttered toast, then flank it with ened with Ve'loute' sauce, simmered; served broiled lamb or sheep kidneys, and serve with within a fancy piped border of mashed potatoes. port wine sauce. FRIED SWEETBREADS, COLBERT SAUCE MEDALLIONS OF SWEETBREAD Take The sweetbreads split, seasoned with salt smooth skinned tomatoes, cut them in halves, and pepper, dipped in butter, then in beaten place cut side down in baking pan and dry them eggs and sifted BREAD crumbs, fried a deli- down in a medium oven; then place a slice of cate brown with butter; served on fancy toast sweetbread in each half, put the two halves to- with Colbert sauce. gether, pin them with a toothpick, then bread BRAISED SWEETBREADS WITH VEGE- and fr X tn e m . drain, remove the pick; serve on TABLES The sweetbreads larded, braised circles of toast and Supreme sauce, with herbs, vegetables and stock, taken up LARDED SWEETBREADS, TOULOUSE when done, the braise strained and skimmed; GARNISH Take veal sweetbreads, lard them then used to moisten a macedoine or jardiniere with seasoned strips of bacon, braise till done of vegetables; served, the sweetbreads on fancy and glazy with herbs, vegetables and stock; toast, the vegetables around. serve on circles of toast with Toulouse garnish FRIED STUFFED SWEETBREADS Split the around, (see Garnishes), sweetbreads, then spread it on both sides with CROQUETTES OF SWEETBREADS Take a D'Uxelles sauce containing minced mush- the trimmings of sweetbreads and some boiled rooms and onions, then double bread and fry; sweetbreads from the ox, cut them up very fine, serve with a rich brown sauce containing adding some minced mushrooms and shallots, sherry wine. then boil them down thick with Veloute sauce, THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 167 (a little chopped parsley may be added if de- sired) tarn oat into a buttered pan, smooth, cover with a sheet of buttered paper and set away to get thoroughly cold; then make up into croquettes, or form into small cutlets, bread, fry and serve with a white Italian sauce, or garnish with peas in a Veloute sauce, or with some flageolet beans in a Madeira sauce. . . KROMESKIES OF SWEETBREADS are made of the croquette mixture shaped like a core, then rolled round with thin slices of boiled bacon, dipped in batter and fried. . . RIS- SOLES OF SWEETBREADS are made from the croquette mixture shaped like a finger, then enclosed with a thin piece of pie paste and fried. BROILED SWEETBREADS Prepare and trim the sweetbreads, then season with salt and pepper, rou in melted butter, then in flour, and broil a delicate brown; serve on toast with or without a strip of bacon and some maitre d'ho- tel sauce. ROAST SWEETBREADS Prepare and trim veal sweetbreads, season with salt and pepper, roll in melted butter, then in flour, place in a battered baking pan, roast gently till of a deli- cate color, then serve on a circle of buttered toast with Supreme or Madeira sauces. PATTIES OF SWEETBREADS Take the pre- pared veal sweetbreads and cut them into small dice, adding a small quantity of iced and fried button mushrooms, moisten them with either Veloute, Italian or Madeira sauces, simmer, then fill into patty cases . . .VOL-AU- VENTS are the same thing but much larger. . . BOU- CHEES are the same thing but smaller than the patty case. SALPICON OF SWEETBREADS Take the prepared veal sweetbreads and cut them into medium-sized dice, adding also the tops of small button mushrooms, small diced pieces of cooked red tongue, and some small diced truffles; moisten the whole with a white Italian sauce, simmer, then serve in fancy cases. BROCHETTE OF SWEETBREADS Take the prepared veal sweetbreads and slice them into squares or circles with an equal number of -slices of parboiled bacon, run them on a skewer alternately, with a button mushroom; season with salt, pepper and the juice of a lemon, then dip in beaten eggs, then roll in sifted breadcrumbs, and fry a delicate brown in but- ter; serve with Italian sauce. FRIED SWEETBREADS Take the prepared veal sweetbreads and cut them into slices, sea- pon with salt and pepper, roll in flour, then fry a delicate brown with butter; take up and moisten with a little Madeira sauce, just enough to keep them hot in the bain-marie; place within a border of veal forcemeat piped on the dish with a bag and tube, then pour Perigaeax sauce over the sweetbreads and serve. SCRAMBLED SWEETBREADS WITH EGGS Take all the trimmings of the sweetbreads which may have accumulated from the two or three previous days, cut them into small neat pieces, then scramble them with eggs, after- ward moistening them with white Italian sauce; serve on buttered toast. SWEETBREADS WITH BROWN BUTTER Slices of the prepared veal sweetbreads fried a golden brown with plenty of good butter; taken up and laid on toast, the butter then frothed up and seasoned with lemon juice, or tarragon vinegar, browned well, and poured over the sweetbreads. SWEETBREAD SOUP- -Mince some ham and onions, blanch and slice some sweetbreads, add a bunch of herbs and saut6 the whole gently with butter for an hour, add flour to form a paste, then rub the whole through the tamis, make hot again and bring to the soup consist- ency with a combined veal and chicken broth, season with salt, white pepper, a little sugar; serve with croutons. TAPIOCA A form of starch obtained from the root of a plant; used in the making of puddings and jellies; also in soups and custards. TARRAGON An aromatic herb; used in soups, sauces, and as a flavoring to vinegar. TARTARIC ACID A powder obtained from cream of tartar; used in conjunction with it to form baking powder. TEAL Name of the duck next best to the can- vas back; delicious when broiled, roasted or in a salmis. TERRAPIN Name of the most costly of the tor- toise family, having to-be purchased by the inch, the diamond back being the best. To kill it, plunge into boiling water and let it remain there with the lid on for fifteen minutes, then take it out and peel the skin off the back and re- move the nails from the claws; remove the un- der shell by cutting with a sharp knife where it joins the upper one, then remove the sand bag and gall bladder; save the blood, and remove all the meat and eggs; cat off the head and use it and the shell for soups; keep the meat, eggs and the green fat found at the shoulders in water till wanted for use. BAKED TERRAPIN Take the terrapin meat, eggs and fat, pat into the upper shell, moisten with a little Madeira sauce, add the juice of a lemon, season with salt, pepper, butter, a glass of Madeira wine; cover with a sheet of buttered paper, bake till done and serve in the shell. TERRAPIN, MARYLAND STYLE Terrapin meat simmered in butter with the liquor ob- tained from the cutting up; flour added to form a roux, then moistened with boiling cream, till i68 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. like a fricassee; seasoned with salt, pepper and SALMON TROUT SAUTE Cut the fish into mace; finish by adding the eggs, simmer, then add sherry wine. TOMATOES One of the best of the vegetable fruits. Used in making pies, preserves, soups, sauces, salads, as a vegetable, baked and stuffed as a garnish; used as an accompaniment to steaks when broiled, as a pickle, and in the prepara- tion of piccalili, as an ingredient to chutney; and used by the cook in more ways than any other fruit vegetable known. TRIFLE Name given to a combination of sponge cake, sherry wine, preserves, custard, and whip- ped cream. TRIPE The first stomach of the ox. Used after being prepared by the butchers. It is easily di- gested, contains good nutrients. It may be broiled and served with melted butter . . . Fried steaks, season with salt and pepper. Fry some slices of bacon a delicate brown, then roll the fish in flour and fry in the bacon fat till of a golden brown; take up, aid flour to the pan, stir, moisten with boiling fish broth, add the juice of a lemon, and a little tomato catchup, strain over the fish in a clean sautoir, simmer for a few minutes, then serve with some of the sauce and a strip of the bacon on the top. BAKED STUFFED TROUT Take the lake trout, trim and scale it, stuff with a fish force- meat, sew up the belly, score the sides in por- tion cuts, season with salt and pepper, brush with butter, dredge with flour, place in a but- tered pan, bake and baste till done; serve with an anchovied Espagnole sauce, garnish with Duchesse potatoes. either after breading, or dipping in fritter bat- BROILED SALMON TROUT Take the whole ter and served with fried onions or with a pure'e of onions in either brown or white sauce . . . Stewed plain with onions in white sauce . . . Stewed with tomatoes, a clove of garlic, red peppers, olive oil, Worcestershire sauce, sliced sides freed from bones, moisten with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, broil well done over a clear fire; serve in por- tions with maitre d'hotel butter, garnish with Parisenne potatoes, lemon and parsley. onions and meat gravy. This is called "in CRE- SALMON TROUT BAKED WITH TOMA- OLE style" . . .Stewed in Espagnole sauce with an addition of fried onions . . . Stewed down rich in tomato sauce . . . Stewed in a sauce Poulette and served with toast . . . Baked in a rich white onion sauce . . . Grilled and served with tartar sauce . . . Curried and served with fancy croutons . . . Made into a fricassee by TOES Take the sides of fish freed from bones, season with salt and pepper, dust with paprika, dredge with flour, arrange in a buttered baking pan, cover with canned tomatoes, add a minced green pepper, bake and baste till done; serve with the tomatoes, and garnish with Victoria potatoes. stewing in a sauce Veloutfe . . . Laid out in FILLETED TROUT FRIED, WITH BACON lengths, the inside spread with sausage meat, rolled up into cannelons, baked and basted with tomato sauce; served with some of the sauce and garnished with sausage balls . . . Sauteed and served with Bordelaise sauce . . . Sim- mered down till nearly dry with a little white broth, chopped parsley, and strips of lean ham, then moistened with a sauce Toulouse, finished with a few gherkins finely minced. TROUT One of the most delicate flavored fish, LAKE TROUT, SALMON TROUT and the BROOK TROUT. The delicate brook trout is either broiled or fried, and served with a mditre d'hotel sauce . . . The lake and sal- mon trout may be cut in steaks and broiled; served with a Hollandaise sauce . . . Cut in steaks and fried, served with a slice of bacon; garnish with fancy potatoes . . . Boiled and served with Anchovy sauce . . . Baked and served with Italian sauce. BAKED SALMON TROUT Scale and cleanse the fish, score the sides where the portion is to be cut, rub the scores with mixed salt, pepper and ground herbs, lay in buttered pan, bake and baste with butter and court-bouillon; when done, lift off gently on to the steam table; serve in portions with either Genevoise or Espagnole sauces, garnish with small potato croquettes. Take the sides of salmon trout freed from bone, cut them into portion pieces, season with salt and pepper, have ready some frying oil, very hot. Make a batter of beaten eggs and a very little flour, dip the fillets in the batter, fry in the oil; serve with a strip of bacon on the fish, garnish with Saratoga chips, lemon and parsley. TROUT STEAK, SAUCE TRIANON Take the centre cut steaks of salmon trout, season with salt and pepper, moisten with olive oil, dredge with flour, broil over a clear fire, bast- ing with butter; serve with a sauce Trianon poured around. LAKE TROUT FRIED, TOMATO SAUCE Scale and trim the trout, cut in steaks, season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, fry in bacon fat to a golden color; serve with tomato sauce poured around. Or may be served with a strip of bacon, garnished with Reitz potatoes. BOILED TROUT, SHRIMP SAUCE Lake or Salmon trout, scaled and trimmed, scored in portion cuts, placed on the drainer of fish ket- tle, covered with cold water containing a bunch of garden herbs, a little salt and vinegar, brought to the boil, skimmed, simmered till done, lifted up and drained; served with shrimp sauce, garnished with Hollandaise potatoes. THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 169 PAKED TROUT STEAKS Take the lake trout, soale and trim, cut in steaks, arrange in but- tered pan, cover with Allemande sauce, bake gently till done; serve garnished with Villa- geoise potatoes. BRAISED TROUT, MATELOTE Scale and trim the fish, score the sides in portion cuts, braise with bacon, herbs, and fish broth; when done, take up, strain and skim the braise, glaze the portions with it; serve garnished with a Matelote. BROOK TROUT WITH QUENELLES Clean and trim the fish, stuff with a fish farce, ar- range in a well buttered pan, season with salt and pepper, add a few mixed herbs and a glass of white wine with a little fish broth; bake about fifteen minutes, well basting with the liquor; then take up, strain the residue into some Espagnole sauce, boil up and skim; then add sliced truffles and mushroom, some blanched oysters and a little lobster coral; serve with the oysters as a garnish and the sauce poured over. BROILED BROOK TROUT Scale and trim the fish; draw it through the gills, then stuff it through the mouth with butter mixed with finely minced sweet herbs, slightly score the sides, season with salt and pepper, pass the fish through either melted butter or olive oil; broil gently without breaking the skin; serve with Poivrade sauce. TRUFFLES Name of an aromatic tuber. On the European continent are served baked, boiled, gratinated, broiled, stewed in wine, etc. But on account of their very high price in this country, the cook uses them in sauces, forcemeats, omelets, salads and turkey stuffing. TUNNY "THON MARINE" As it generally appears on the bill of fare, under the heading of hors d'ouevrs or appetizers, is the name of a fish of the appearance and flavor of Spanish mackerel. It is generally imported in tins, pre- pared in olive oil. TURKEY One of the native American poultry birds found wild in Mexico. And the wild bird is as superior to the domestic one as the can- vas back duck is to the domestic duck. BROILED SPRING TURKEY Plump young birds, singed, split down the back, breast and back bones removed, thigh bone snapped, the sides then cut in halves; season with salt .and pepper, brush with butter or olive oil, broil a golden brown; serve on slices of buttered toast and garnish with two roast mushrooms on the bird, flanked with slices of tomatoes breaded and fried, a little miitre d'hotel butter sprink- led over the whole. STEWED SPRING TURKEY, SOUTHERN STYLE Take young plump birds singed, drawn and washed, cut into joints, leaving the the leg and wing bone a little exposed. Place the pieces in a baking pan, season with chili pepper and salt, sprinkle with melted butter and roast slowly till brown; then take up into a sautoir, add flour, shake together, moisten with chicken or turkey stock, bring to the boil, skim, then add the grated rind and juice of an orange, simmer till the bird is tender. Take one pound of raw ham and one medium sized onion, cut in small squares, fry them lightly with plenty of butter in the sautoir, then add a pound of well washed rice, moisten with half a gallon of chicken or turkey stock, place on the cover and let simmer till rice is well done. To serve: place the rice neatly on serving platter, the portion of bird on the rice with a croquette frill in it; or on the wing or leg bone; pour some of the gravy over the whole and flank the rice with small roasted potatoes. BOILED TURKEY, OYSTER SAUCE Take very large plump birds, singe, draw, wash, truss them with the legs forced well into the body, then boil them with a piece of salt pork, carrots, onions and celery, for about three hours; take up, and serve portions with plenty of oyster sauce poured over. A well made celery sauce is also very appropriate. ROAST SPRING TURKEY, OYSTER SAUCE Take young plump birds, singed, drawn, washed and trussed (not stuffed). Roast about an hour, well basting with butter. Serve in portions with a good brown oyster sauce, (see Sauces). ROAST TURKEY, STUFFED Take plump young birds, singe, draw, wash, stuff with a mixture of white bread soaked and squeezed dry, seasoned with salt, pepper, mixed herbs, melted butter and yolks of eggs. Truss with the legs well into the body; season the bird with pepper and salt, roast for about two hours, wel basting during roasting; serve portions with the stuffing under the meat, and a dish of cranberry sauce or jelly separate . . . The turkey may also be stuffed with mashed sweet potatoes . . . Again with veal forcemeat containing a liberal quantity of peeled boiled chestnuts, then served with chestnut sauce; that is, with boiled chest- nuts peeled, rubbed through the tamis, and the puree thus obtained mixed into the turkey gravy . . . They may also be stuffed with an oyster dressing and served with a brown oyster sauce . . . They may also be stuffed with stewed truffles and served with Perigueux sauce, and garnished with quenelles of poultry . . . Also stuffed with pork sausage meat in which has been mixed some boiled and peeled chestnuts, and served with a Chipolata garnish, (see Garnishes) . . . Also stuffed with veal forcemeat and served with a Financiere garnish. In 170 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. England the common way of the people is to stuff the turkey with ordinary dressing as given above, and to serve it with roast pork sausages, and a slice of boiled salt leg of pork, always handing round sticks of fine white celery. BOILED STUFFED TURKEY Take young plump birds, singe, draw, wash, stuff with veal forcemeat; trussed with the legs well into the body; boil it till tender with a carrot, onion, celery, and a salted ox tongue; serve with a couple of slices of the tongue on the bird, the stuffing underneath, and a sauce made from the liquor it was boiled in poured around ... It may also be stuffed with grated breadcrumbs mixed with minced and boiled celery, raw eggs, salt, pepper and butter, and served with Hol- landaise sauce ... Or with egg sauce, Veloute sauce, parsley sauce . . . Also garnished with a slice of boiled ham and a spoonful of spinach puree. BONED TURKEY This dish is always served cold, either plain or with aspic or in a galan- tine. It is a favorite with ball parties, and other luncheon or supper gatherings. Take two birds, one smaller than the other. Remove the head, feet and wings, then split the skin down the spinal column; remove the flesh with- out breaking through the skin, and leave the carcass with entrails entire. Lay the birds out on the table skin side down. On the larger on place a column of pork sausage or veal forcee meat down the breast centre; on that, lay a- column of cooked tongue, and on either side of it a smaller column of pickled belly of cooked pork. Season with salt, pepper and thyme. Remove the flesh from the skin of the smaller bird and place the white meat over the dark of the stuffed bird, and the dark over the white meat. Then draw the two sides together, sew it up into a good shape; then sew it into a cloth and boil till tender (about two hours). Take up and drain, then place it between two boards; put a weight on top and let become thoroughly cold; then remove the cloth, trim the bird, wipe clean with a hot wet cloth, glaze it and cut portions to order. If to place on a table whole, then decorate the glazing with fancy piped butter, and take off the first slice ... It may also be roasted instead of being in a cloth and boiled ... To make a GALANTINE OF TURKEY, take the bird when the cloth is removed, have a galantine mold nicely decor- ated with aspic jelly and fancy forms of green peas, white and yolk of hard boiled egg, mace- doine of vegetables; then fill the mold with slices of the boned bird, placing the edges downwards (not one on top of the other), then fill up with limpid aspic jelly, allowing the jelly to get be- tween each slice of turkey, so that in serving there is no cutting to be done, simply remov- ing the slice with the jelly adhering. When serving, place at either end of the dish a small quantity of aspic and currant jelly. BLANQUETTE OF TURKEY Slices of cold cooked turkey freed from skin, a can of good button mushrooms also sliced. Put the two into a rich Veloute sauce, bring to the simmer, skim, add juice of a lemon; served within a border of green peas, or grains of rice, or finely shred noodles. BRAISED TURKEY Singe and truss the bird without stuffing as for roasting; then roast, quickly basting with butter to get on a nice brown color. Take up as soon as browned, and place it into a deep sautoir with a few slices of veal at the bottom; cover the bird with slices of fat bacon, then fill up with good white stock; add a bunch of sweet herbs, a little salt, then simmer till done; take up the bird, reduce the stock to half glaze, skim, strain and serve with the bird. Garnish with small potato cro- quettes. STUFFED YOUNG TURKEY LEGS-Cut off the leg and thigh, thus making four portions from each bird. You can stuff the other part of the bird and roast in the usual way, as everybody wants a slice of the breast . . . Re- move the bone from the leg cuts, season them with salt and pepper, then stuff the opening with a white forcemeat in which is incorpor- ated minced ham, truffles and mushrooms; roll them into shape, sew the ends, wrap each one in a piece of bacon, then boil gently in white stock till tender; take up and cool; then removs the sewing; meantime reduce the stock till of a sauce consistency; place the legs in again, to reheat, then take up and roll in fresh grated breadcrumbs; place in a buttered pan, sprinkle with butter, place in oven and get on a good color; serve on a bed of boiled rice with the sauce poured around. CREAMED COLLOPS OF TURKEY Slices of cold cooked turkey freed from skin, cut into neat thin slices; then place into a Supreme sauce and simmer tor ten minutes; serve on a slice of toast, sprinkle the top with finely minced truffles and lean ham mixed together; garnish the sides with fancy croutons spread with foie-gras or liver paste. HASHED TURKEY WITH EGG For this dish, buy a big old gobbler weighing twenty pounds or so, truss as for boiling, then steam it till tender; when cooled, remove the skin, and take off every particle of meat, cut it into very small dice, moisten it with Veloute sauce, bring it to the simmer; serve on buttered toast with a poached egg on top. TURKEY CROQUETTES Take the preceding recipe, and when brought to the simmer, work in some well boiled rice, so as to thoroughly stiffen it; then pour into a buttered pan, cover THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 171 with oiled paper and let become cold, then shape it into the shape desired; bread, fry and serve with a white Italian sauce. TURKEY PATTIES AND VOL-AU-VENTS Take the cold white meat of cooked turkey, cut it into small dice, season with salt and nutmeg, then moisten it with a rich cream sauce (made green fat is served with the soups, the white and dark meat used for entrees and steaks, etc. The white meat may be used in all the ways given in the recipes for veal. The red meat in all the ways given for beef. The fins are gen- erally stewed in any of the ways applicable to fowl. with cream); fill into patty or vol-au-vent cases GREEN TURTLE SOUP Place in a large and and serve. SALPICON OF TURKEY Take cold cooked turkey freed from skin, three-fifths; lean cooked ham, one-fifth; truffles and mushrooms in equal parts to make the last fifth; cut the whole into neat small dice, moisten with a Supreme sauce, simmer for ten minutes, then serve in fancy paper cases. CROUSTADES OF TURKEY Take the salpi- con of the preceding recipe and fill into fancy croustade cases and serve. FRICASSEE OF TURKEY WINGS Take the middle joints of the wings, pick out all the dark feathers, trim the edges, singe them, boil them very slowly with a heart of celery, salt and a few blades of mace; when tender take up; make a good white sauce from the boiling liquor, skim and strain it over the wings in another san- toir, then add some good button mushrooms cut into slices, bring all to the simmer and serve with a border of finely cut noodles. TURKEY SALADS AND SOUPS ARE MADE THE SAME AS THE RECIPES GIVEN WITH CHICKEN. TURNIPS A nutritious vegetable both white and yellow; used plain boiled or boiled and mashed; cut into shapes and used as a garnish; or stewed in a cream sauce and used either as a garniture or as a vegetable; they are very use- ful in soups. The young green turnip tops also make a most excellent vegetable. Young deep sautoir half a pound of butter, three pounds of sliced raw ham, the meat from three shins of beef and three knuckles of veal, two old fowls, a dozen cloves, four blades of mace, a handful of parsley roots, a bouquet of parsley tied up with shallots, thyme, green onions and two bay leaves, a pint of Madeira wine and a gallon of good stock; boil this down sharply to a half glaze, then fill up with stock, adding the turtle head, fins, shell and the coarse meat, turnips, carrots, onions and a head of celery; simmer for six hours, then work in a roux to the consistency of thin sauce, boil and skim till smooth and velvety, then strain off in to another sautoir. . . Make a pure"e of herbs by boiling together in a quart of consomme, one-third of sweet basil, and the other two-thirds of herbs to be used are equal quantities of savory, thyme and marjoram, a good handful of parsley, a small bunch each of spring onions and shal- lots, and some mushroom trimmings; boil for one hour, then rub all through the tamis; add the puree to the soup with a pint of Madeira wine; some of the turtle eggs, some forcemeat balls made from the white turtle meat, the cooked green fat cut in pieces, and the juice of one lemon to each gallon of soup. For CLEAR TURTLE SOUP, proceed and finish in the same way, but instead of adding a roux to the stock, let it cool and clarify it into a consomme". A good sherry wine may be used instead of Madeira. white turnips of an even size may be peeled, the inside scooped out, steamed till done, then VANILLA-The fruit or pod of the vanilla plant; used as a receptacle for green peas, etc., and used as a flavori g to sauces, ices, puddings, served as a vegetable, the parts scooped out be- blanc-manges, fritters, creams, liqueurs, souf- ing used next day as a vegetable; also the tur- fles - eclairs - s y ru P s - caramels - etc. nip can be used for a nice entre'e by taking VEAL ROLL WITH TONGUE This is a de- white turnips all of an even size, peel them, lightful cold dish for luncheons, suppers, etc. cut off a lid, scoop out the inside, fill the space with-minced mutton (thus using up your mut'. ton trimmings), replace the lid, arrange in a shallow sautoir, moisten with white stock and simmer till tender; serve with a good gravy poured over them. TURTLE To kill it, hang it up by the hind fins, cut off the head and let it bleed overnight into a bucket; then lay it on its back, cut off the fins, then the under shell, remove the entrails and gall; save the eggs and green fat, the white flesh, and the red meat, and the fins. The shell is then sawn into pieces and boiled with the Take a large breast of veal, bone it, then place in the brine tub for two days; prick it and punch the air out if it has been blown, remove from brine and wipe dry, then spread thick with a layer of seasoned pork sausage meat; on that place down the centre four cooked pickled pigs tongues, cover them with more of the sausage meat, draw the sides together and sew up with twine, then tie it in a cloth like a roly poly pudding; boil for two hours in white stock, take up and let cool in the cloth, then remove the cloth, wipe with a hot cloth, glaze and serve in slices. head to make the stock for turtle soup; the VEAL CUTLETS, GARNISHED Take the rib I72 THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. chops, remove the chine bone and gristle, trim scallops; also about one-third of the amount the bone so as to leave a handle for a frill to be similar cut scallops of raw ham; fry them all of a placed on when serving, lard the flesh with delicate brown color with clarified butter; then strips of bacon, ham, tongue, truffle, or sweet- pour off the surplus, add some button mush- bread and truffle according to desire; then place rooms, and brown Italian sauce, simmer till in a brasiere on a bed of sliced root vegetables, done; serve with the sauce, and garnish with parsley, spring onions, cloves, mace and whole the mushrooms ... Or they may be served with peppers, cover with slices of fat bacon, moisten either tomato or an Espagnole sauce and garn- to the height of the cutlets with stock and a ished with quenelles of veal forcemeat, glass of sherry wine, braise till done (about an EMINCE OF VEAL For this dish use the shin hour), then serve with a brown Italian sauce . . . taken from the shoulder, also the leg and the mushroom sauce . . . Financiere, Toulouse or trimmings from the neck and scrag; boil it in Perigueux garniture. These cutlets after being seasoned stock till done, then allow to become braised, may be cooled, trimmed, masked with cold; cut it up into small dice with some mush- sauce, then breadcrumbed and fried, and rooms, ham, tongue and truffles, then moisten served with Allemande sauce containing seal- the whole with just enough Bechamel sauce to lops of tongue and button mushrooms ... Or keep it together; serve heaped on a slice of with tomato sauce. toast; place a neatly poached and drained egg VEAL CUTLETS SAUTEED Take the rib on top. chops and trim as in the preceding recipe. CROQUETTES OF VEAL Take the parts of Season with salt and pepper, fry a delicate the preceding recipe, but instead of cutting brown on both sides with clarified butter; when them all into dice, run them through the mine- nearly done take up and in the butter fry some ing machine, moisten with enough Veloute shallots, mushrooms and parsley, then add some sauce, and stir over the fire till thoroughly Espagnole sauce, boil up and skim off the fat, heated and stiff; then pour into a buttered pan, add the cutlets and simmer till done; serve smooth with a knife, cover with oiled paper, garnished with thin scallops of fried ham. put away to become cold, then form into cro- FRICANDEAU OF VEAL WITH VEGETA- quettes or cutlet shapes, bread, fry and serve BLES Take the leg of veal and remove the with either mushroom, tomato, Italian or Peri- thick flank, lard it with seasoned strips of gueux sauces. bacon, braise with carrot, celery, onions, pars- VEAL AND OYSTER PIE For this dish use ley, green onions and slices of bacon with mace, the scrag end of the neck and the middle neck cloves and peppers in the usual way, for about under the shoulder, boil in one piece in seas- two and a half hours; when done, take up, oned white stock; when done, take up and cool, strain, boil and skim the braise, add some then cut into neat shaped pieces, place into the sherry or Madeira wine; use it as a sauce to the pie dish with a liberal quantity of scalded oys- fricandeau; serve garnished with any vegetable ters, make a good white sauce from the stock garnish or puree described in this work. It and oyster liquor, season with salt and nutmeg, may also be garnished with either Chipolata, add a little chopped parsley; pour over the con- Financiere or Toulouse garniture. tents of the pie dish, cover with a good short GRENADINS OF VEAL WITH SPINACH paste, glaze with egg wash, bake and serve. After removing the thick flank for fricandeau ROAST LOIN OR NECK OF VEAL Take the from a leg of veal, you have the buttock and loin or neck of veal, allowing the tops to be aitchbone left. Bone out the aitch on the leg; long, remove the bones and gristle, season with remove the marrow bone, split the buttock in salt and pepper, roll up and tie with twine, the natural seam, then slice the two sections roast gently without drying the skin into into cutlets or grenadins, lard and braise them; strings; serve with Bechamel sauce and garnish serve on a bed of pure"e of spinach . , . pure"e with small potato croquettes. of celery . . . pure"e of green peas . . . pure*e of CROUSTADE OF VEAL Take the blanquette red haricot beans, etc. of veal of a preceding recipe but cutting the BLANQUETTE OF VEAL Take cold roast meat into large dice, and serve in croustade or braised veal, remove the brown skin, and cases. then cut into neat scallops, add some button SALPICON OF VEAL Take the eminceofveal mushrooms, or scallops of truffle or tongue, of a preceding recipe and serve it in croustade moisten the whole with Allemande sauce, sim- cases, paper cases, or steamed and hollowed mer; serve garnished with small croquettes of out white turnips, rice ... or potatoes ... or veal forcemeat. BOUDINS OF VEAL TIMBALES OF VEAL SCALLOPS OF VEAL, ITALIAN SAUCE For Take the remains of cold veal, trim off the this dish use up the thick end of the loin, neck, skin, run it through the mincing machine with aitchbone, or leg; cut them into neat shaped some cooked bacon and button mushrooms, THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. 173 then moisten with a very little sauce, thor- oughly stir over the fire till thick; butter some timbale or boudin molds, line them with browned bread crumbs, fill in the mince, steam them for about twenty minutes, then turn out and serve with mushroom, tomato, white Italian, brown Italian, Perigueux or Veloute sauces. They may also be garnished with finely shred noodles, green peas, macedoine or Jardiniere of vegetables, button mushrooms, etc. BROILED VEAL CHOPS Use either the loin or rib chops, trim, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, brush with butter, broil and baste to a golden color; serve with maitre d'hotel, Col- bert, tomato, or Madeira sauces. CURRY OF VEAL For this dish use up the breasts, cut them into even sized pieces, remov- ing the thick bones, season with salt and pep- per, fry a very light color with clarified butter; take up and into the butter then fry a liberal amount of thinly sliced onions, add flour to form a roux, then the curry powder to taste, bring to the boil and skim; simmer for half an hour till the onions are well cooked, then rub through the tamis on to the pieces of breast; simmer then till the meat is done; serve within a border of rice, rissoto, macaroni, spaghetti or noodles. GALANTINE OF VEAL Take a large breast of veal and remove the bones, prick it and punch out the air if it has been blown, season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a little powdered thyme all mixed together, then spread it with a layer of veal forcemeat; on it lay a thinly beaten season it with salt and pepper, brush it all over with melted butter, then enclose it with a crust made of plain flour and water, bake it about an hour, then take up and remove the crust, place it in another baking pan on a stand, pour in a melted mixture of a half pint each of melted butter, red currant jelly, and boiling water; with the residue of the first pan it was baked in, if any, finish roasting and basting till done; serve with the gravy from the pan . . . The sad- dle or double loin, is generally encased with buttered paper instead of the crust . . . The rib and loin chops, are generally broiled and served with a jelly, piquant, Colbert, poivrade, finan- ciere, Portugaise or Bigarade sauces, or fried, or saute'ed and served with the same sauces or with a chestnut pure"e . . .The scrag and breasts are generally formed into a stew or a "CIVET OF VENISON." Made the same way as jugged hare (which see). . . The shoulder or the whole forequarter may be roasted and served with poivrade sauce, and red currant jelly sent to table separately. The cold cooked parts left over may be made into croquettes and cutlets and served with a game sauce made from the bones stewed down with herbs, and a little jelly and Madeira wine. The rougher parts may also be made into pies, and the cutlets made into a good VENISON PIE or patties or vol- au-vents. A good soup is made from the shanks, shins and head, boiled down rich, finished with a little Espagnole sauce, Madeira wine, lemon, cayenne pepper; served with game forcemeat balls and croutons. out and skinned sheet of pigs flare, down the centre place a column of red cooked tongue, on VERMICELLI A fine form of Italian paste either side of it a smaller column of cooked used in most of the ways applicable to maca- boiled salt pork, then sprinkle over a mixture of roni and spaghetti (which see). chopped whites and yolks of eggs with minced VERMOUTH A form of liquor cordial; used in pickled gherkins, cover with another lajer of making mixed drinks especially. veal forcemeat, draw the sides together and VINEGAR A distilled acid liquor of the wine sew into a neat roll with twine, then tie in a formation; used as a flavoring and a condiment. cloth and boil in wliite stock for two and a half VOL-AU-VENT A small hollow form of puff hours, take up and press till cold in the cloth pastry, used as a receptacle to viands. WAFFLES A form of batter cake pastry baked in waffle irons and eaten generally with powd- ered sugar or syrup. WALNUT A hard shelled nut, the interior of which is used for dessert, candies, etc. When plucked green they are used as a pickle after going through the pickling process. with a garnish of green peas, lima beans, chip- WHITEFISH A delicious fish obtained in our olata garniture, glazed carrots, mushrooms, lakes. It may be cooked and served in all the ways applicable to our lake trout. WOODCOCK A delicious game bird; cooked The leg and and served in all the ways of small game birds de- between two boards, then remove the cloth, wipe clean, glaze; serve in slices with crofltons of bright aspic jelly. STEWED BREAST OF VEAL Take the breast of veal and boil it whole till tender enough to take out the bones, then let become cold, cut into even sized pieces and stew it in a sauce made from the liquor it was boiled in; serve forcemeat balls, fried oysters, cauliflower, small white turnips, rice, mushrooms. VENISON The flesh of the deer, saddle are usually roasted. To roast the leg, scribed in this work. INDEX TO THE CULINARY HANDBOOK. Absinthe Page prlcot omelet patties or vol-an- vents Page i'i'is avarlan cream . 70 Acid acetic 1 sausage 4.137 68 167 85 156 incases a la Colbert * ean puree with onions 9 salad 160 Aerated waters I Bsarnaise sauce 17 & 155 Albert sauce -. 155 with rloe Beef 10 1 1 117 Artichoke bottoms braised 4 wlthfolegras.... 5 with forcemeat.. 4 with onions with ragout " stuffed. 5 Artichoke chips 5 fritters fi 65 bouillon with crusts 13 Beef, braised, a 1* Allemande 11 ala Baden-Baden 11 a la Bignonne 12 a la Bourgeois* 11 a la Financier* 11 a la Flarnande 11 alaUodard 11 alaMilanalse 11 a la Napolltalne it a I'Orslni 11 85 156 Alligator near " salad Allspice ISO 1 J deviled omelet 1 156 salad 160 Alum 1 soup .... 1 a la Piemontalse 11 a la Provencale 12 alaKlcheliea 11 Anchovies 1 Artichokes bouchee of J] ala Barlgoule 2 boiled 8 1 Bef, braised sirloin of, garnished. . . 11 " " " wlthhorserad 1 " witnmushrms 11 "with quenelles 11 " with rice cro- quettes 11 " with sp veg'ls 11 " " " with stuffed potatoes.. . 12 " " with stuffed tomatoes . . 12 " with truffles.. 11 Beef, brisket of, with vegetables .... 10 . ... 1 5 batter 2 & 26 1 1& 86 a laSoubise "6 & 2 j and cauliflower salad 2 fritters 1 * 2 omelet salad ' 2& 150 Band wloh ....1 2 &165 .641 stuffing . .... cakes with egg... 14 tartlnes j j col lops with mushrooms 13 Andalonse (garnish) 85 155 stewed Angel food jelly Angelica 2 1 cutlets with piquante sauce.... 14 Anglalse(garnlah) devilled with oysters 14 ... 86 Aniseed, extract of 81 Aurora sauce 155 ... . 86 Beef, fillet of, al'Andalouse 12 " a la Bayard 12 " a la Chateaubriand .. 15 " a la Jardiniere 1* " sauee provencale 18 " with string beans .... 13 " " a la Talleyrand 12 Bepf. flank of . English style 11 Beef, frizzled, on toast 10 Apple bavarois* 16F 2 Baba cake . < iy charlotte 122 j cobbler Baking powder compote s cream ' Ballotlne ( Beef, glazed ribs of, with macaroni. . 11 " " with potato cro- quettes 11 " with vegetables 11 Beef hash corned 15 i fritters fried i Beef heart, boiled, with horseradish 16 float salad fritters .... 3 A 8 Ice Barley Bsef, minced, with egg 14 mirotonof, with vegetables.... 15 marmalade meringue Bass patties with mushrooms 14 pancakes pie boiled pickling 130 pot pie 14 broiled a laChambord ragout of, Creole sauce 15 rissoles 14 tart fried roast . 10 timbale a la Meunlere Apples sausages 16 & 138 baked.... Batter saute of, truffle sauce i5 scalloped with oysters 14 scallops of. sauce Trianon 15 fried for buckwheat cakes .... for corn griddle cakes glazed Apricot bavarolse cobbler for French pancakes for frying sweet foods & fruits for frying vegetables for graham griddle cakes for rice griddle cakes for Swiss pancakes .... for wheat griddle cakes for Yorkshire pudilng sbortrlbs 10 Beef, small fillets of, maltre d 'hotel. 15 " " " with oysters... 15 Beef sandwiches, smoked 10 Beef, smoked, with spinach 10 Beef sonp, English and Scotch U fritters 4 A 83 jelly marmalade or jam.. " Jellied.... ... 15 Pa/e Beef steak and kidney pie 14 ' and mushroom pie 14 " and oyster pie 14 Beef stew, German style 10 Beef tongue, smoked, with spinach. . 15 tteef tenderloin with blood gravy. . " with artichokes . . . " with oepes " with custards " a la julienne " a la macedoine . . . " with mushrooms.. " a la Nlvernalse . . . " a la Parislenne ... ' ' a la Printaniere . . " with stuffed peppers 12 " with vegetables 12 Beef tenderloin steak, so. Bearnaise. 12 ' bordelalse . . . . 12 ' Parls.potatoes 12 " sc.iPerlguenx. 13 " " saute, peppers 13 Beef tongue, braised, with tomatoes 15 " corned with spinach... 16 Beef, tournedos of, with olives 15 Beet and egg salad 17 & 150 greens IS and potato salad I Beets...... 16 boiled in butter sauce for garnishing It pickled 16 Beetroot and potato salad 15( Bell fritters 57 Benedictine 17 & 65 Berlin pancakes 75 Bermuda onions, puree of u< Beyrou t sauce ' }' Bigarade sauce 15( Biscuits, cheese 4! Bisque 17 of crabs 17 & B9 of " Creolestyle 6 r of crayfish 1 of herring 1 of Jack rabbit 1 of lobster 17 & 103 of oysters I 1 " Of partridge 1' of plovers 1 Of prawns (or shrimps 1' of salmon 1' of terrapin 11 Bitter almond, extract of 8 Black beans with rissoto ' Blackberries 18 steaks, Italian sauce 19 stuffed fillets of 20 and baked 19 oars head, glased 133 ohemian sauce 156 lohemlenne (garnish) 86 Joiogna sausage 138 " (Italian) 139 Boned turkey 170 tones (pigs) 131 Jordelaise (garnish) 86 sauce, brown and white 166 stew (oyster) 121 with cr charlotte . compote.. jeUy '.'.'.'.'.' pudding shortcake tartlets 1 Blackbirds 1 broiled on skewers 1 compote of In potatoes salmis Of Blackcock " broiled, with jelly Blaokdl ver Blackflsh baked, oyster sauce boiled, Italian sauce broiled, with parsley 1 fried, with bacon 1 saute with flue herbs 1 Black gome, roast, bread sauce 1 Black grouse, braised " Black pudding 1 Blanc mange " chocolate " corn 6b Blanch or blanched Blanquette Bladders (pigs) 13 Bloaters 1 toasted Blood (pigs) ....13 sausage 138 " (French) lc " (North Germany! 13 Blueflsh baked, In crumbs " matelote sauce " with fine herbs " with tomatoes Page lueflsh, boiled, shrimp sauce 20 broiled, with anchovy butter .. 20 saute, admiral sauce 20 chovies 20 oz stew (oyster) 121 ouohee 20 & 167 of anchovies 21 of chicken 20 of crayfish tails 2u of fole-gras 20 of game 2(1 i game puree 20 of lobsters 20 & 102 with marrow 2C with mushrooms 21 of oranges 21 of oysters 2 with oz palates 2 of peaches 21 of plums 2 with ragout . a la Ueii alaSt. Hubert 20 of salmon with salpicon . of sardines.... a la Seville. .. of sole of sweetbreads of woodcock... Bondin blano of fowl of hart delapln dellevre nolr 19 & of rabbit of veal de veau Bouergolse (garnish) 86 sauce 166 Roulettes of gume Bouillabaisse Bouillon, beef, with srusts. . Jourglgnotte or bonrglgnonne(garn ) Si Bourglgnotte sauce 156 Brain cakes with bacon 2 croquettes with peas 2 cutlets, Villerol sauce 2 kromeskies, Madiera sauce 25 patties or vol am vents 26 pigs 18 Brains 23 braised, with mushrooms " sauce Remonlade " with stuffed tomatoes. broiled, with parsley butter. . . . creamed, with kidney beans. . . . croustades of , with artichokes. fried, breaded, Tartar sauce ' with brown butter and mushrooms In oases with rice, Turkish style roast, with forcemeat balls .... in sauce Poulette with rice scalloped. In shell crambled with sorrel, sauce Ravlgote Braise and braising K ran died cherries ' Brandy Bread. white versus brown S Bressoise sauce 1! Bretonne (garnish) 8 sauce, cold and hot 156 Brie ... Brli for ham. pickles, etc If Brioche fritters 73 Brochette of calf's brains . of chicken livers.. ...... rochette of duck livers 23 of crayfish tails 23 of eels 22 of geese livers 22 of lamb fries 29 of lamb kidneys 21 of lobster 22 of mussels 18 of mutton 22 of ortolans 120 of oysters 21 & 122 of reed birds 23 of pigs' kidney* 22 of rabbit 22 of scallops 23 of smelts 23 f spring lamb 22 of sweetbreads.. of turkey 23 of turkey livers 23 of veal 22 rook ti out with quenelles 189 " broiled 169 Jroth, beef , with celery 13 chicken, with artichokes 56 with asparagus tips... 56 " with custards 65 ' wlthonions 66 with peached egg 16 " with rice 65 " with sorrel 16 " with spring vegetables 54 clam 68 runolse irunswlck, cervelat sausage 139 Brussels sprouts 25 boiled 25 in cream 25 with parsley butter. 25 puraeof 25 sautees 25 Buck 25 Buckv heat cakes Bulsson ...! Burbot ................................ 78 ........ 25 Butter 25 adulterations 26 anchovy 2& 26 apple 2 cakes 25 crayfish 26 drawn 26 garlic 28 horseradish 26 & 96 lobster 26 maltred hotel 26 montpeller 16 peach 127 pepper 26 plum l.ii ravigote 26 shrimp 26 Bntterball duck 26 Butterlne or margarine 26 Button onion soup with peas. 119 Cabbage 26 baked, with cheese 27 " with ham 26 boiled 26 " German style 27 braised 27 creamed 26 wltheuga 27 fried, with bacon 27 an gratln 27 paupiettesof 27 pickled 27 salad 27*150 stewed 26 stuffed 26 timbalM 27 Cafe 27 Callles 28 Cake.apple 2 chocolate 57 citron 58 plum ........................... 135 Cakes, batter .......................... 8 beef, with egg ................... 14 brain, with bacon .............. 34 butter .......................... 25 codfish ........................... 61 erab ........................... 87 flannel .......................... 8t sausage, with potatoes 22 Cairs brains, broonette of 2 Calf 176 Pa^e Calf's brains, parsley sauce sauce vlnalgreite... savory omelet of Calf's ears, boiled, sauce villeroi...~.~ 29 fried, tomato sauce 29 Calipee and calipash ragout of, in croustades. 29 Cambridge sausage i;;i " " stuffed, t-auce bordemibe 29 " with truffles, so. trianon. 30 " turtlectyie 29 Calfsfeet 3U " boiled, poivrade sance... 30 " crepinettes, sc prov'caie 80 " croustades of " " f rlcasee of 3U ' in batter, Italian sauce. 30 " jelly 80 " witb mushr'm, BC.poulett 30 " steamea, sc. remoulade. 30 Calf's head . . . " with bacon & parsley sc. 28 " baked with chipolatagar 28 ' English style 2& " German style 28 " " sance main tenon.. 28 " boiled, sauce vinaigrette il- ' and brnlns, mush room sc. 28 " " " sauc poivrade 29 " braised, with veal quen'Js !28 " curried with rice 29 " withflnanclereragomt... 28 " fried, tomato nance 28 " fricassee of .wlthveg'bles i'. 1 " with olives, tomato sauce *9 " sauce Itallenne 28 " sauce poulette 28 " soup, Portugese style.... 29 " with quenelles 29 " muffed, sauce papilotte. 29 " and tongue, plquante sc. 28 " " " ragout of.... 29 " tu-t'e style Calf's heart, larded. sauce Andalouse 30 ' stuffed and braised " Madiera sanoe.. 30 Calf's kidneys, broiled, parsley butter 3o " croquettes with peas. 31 In cronstades 31 " fried, sauce colbert. . . 31 larded, Madeira sanoe 30 " omelet 31 " pattlesof 81 " ragout of 81 " sautes with mushr'ms 30 Calf's liver and bacon with spinach . 31 " broiled, Italian sauce 31 " braised, with vegetables . 31 " with crisped onions 31 " frid, with fine herbs 31 " potted, with aspic Jelly... 32 " quenelles In crumbs 82 saute, with bacon " scallops of, with mushr'm 31 ....... " tlmbale of , piquant sauce 32 Calf's tongue, fried, sauce Robert.... with potatoes.mush.so 3 sauce tartare saute, vinaigrette California shoulders, pickling of ... .132 Cam* m oert 3S Canapes 36 Abei deen 36 anchovy 14 2 Borne, or 8wls canapes.... Cabillaud Of caviar 3o & 40 chasseur cheese 36 chicken 35 of chicken livers 35 of crab 35 it 6a Creole 35 In Ian 86 Lorenzo 85 Madison 35 Madras olive 35 of oranges liu of oysters 36 of potted ham 35 of potted tongue 36 sardine 36 savory Bcotch 36 of shrimps 36 of smoked salmon 36 Swiss 36 Windsor Winchester 36 Canard Candied peel fritters 82 'aimed goods 36 'au nelons 36 Canteloupes 86 - pers 36 Caper sauce .156 " forflsh 156 Capercailzie )apor s boiled stuffed, celery sauce 37 " with mllanaise garnish.. 37 " mushroom sauce 37 ' with sait pork 87 " with tongue & cauliflower 37 braised, with chlpolata garnish with quenelles, sauce periguenz 87 sauce supreme 37 " with tomatoed rice .... 37 roast, with noodles 37 " stuffed, glblet sauce. ... 37 " " with rice 37 Capon, stewed, with vegetables 37 Capsicums Calf's sweetbreads, blanqnette of . . . . :-;:>! (garnish) braised, garnished... 33 sance. broiled, sauce colbert 32 with brown butter... 32 In cases Si casserole of 83 withcream'dmush'm X4 In cream, on toast... 32 croquettes with peas 32 cronstade of curried. s:i outlets of. with veg'bl 33 with demt glace 33 fried, mushr'm sance 34 " sauce perlgueuz 32 ' sauce villerol... 34 itb financier ragout 33 Carp saute, admiral sau glazed. French beans kromeskies of 84 larded and braised, mushroom sance . 3" larded, sauc touiouse 33 patties of, scrambled 33 ragout of, with morels 34 " on toast.... 34 rissoles of .vegetables 32 saute of. with baked tomatoes 84 sautes with peas 32 scalloped 8. In shell 82 stewed, kidney beans 34 tlmbale of 83 Calt>s tongue, braised, tomato sance. 32 Cardoons 8! Carmine Sf Carp... baked, sauce genose ' sauce matelote boiled, caper sauce braised stuffed SHUceallpruar.de 38 broiled stuffed, flnes-herbes sc. lemon parsley butter... fried, piqnante sauce Carp roes, boiled, sauce supreme fried, sauce tartare pattlesof scalloped, in shell Carrots 8* carried, with rice 39 braised new, parsley sance glazed new, with butter 39 new, in brown gravy 89 " in cream 88 " poulette sauee 89 pnree of 146 salad with asparagus tips 39 sauce 15 saute of new SOUP stewed, with green peas Carving 39 < 'ases 97 Casserole 89 Cassia Cassolett* s Catfish 89 Catsup, anch mushroom 109 CanHpigs) 131 Cauliflower, baked 40 boiled, Hollandaise sauce 40 cream of 40 fried, allemande sauce 40 with mayonnaise 40 pickled 40 puree of 40 salad 404HO sance 40 & 156 scalloped 40 stewed 'avlar. 40 witb egg 40 eggs stuffed with 40 tart I nt s 40 on toast with olives 40 ^elerlac 41 Celery 40 baked, with eheese 41 boiled, with onions 41 braised, on toast 41 consomme 41 cream of 41 fried, sauce villeroi 41 fritters 41 41 41 with marrow mayonnaise of... patties pnree of 145 " and onions 41 salads Ho sauce, brown and white 156 saute 41 wed, on toast ................ 41 Cepes ................................. 41 broiled, on toast ................. 42 omelet with .... ............... 42 saute of . on toast ............. 41 ed, on toast ................. 41 stev 42 sreal 'erises glaces a la Cbantilly 46 Cerveauz an beurre noir 24 en coqullle au gratin 24 Cervelas 42 Cervelat sausage, Brunswick 139 Cervelatpoise or Danlh beef and pork sausage 137 Cenrelles 42 hablls 43 hadeau sauce 167 Chafing dish 42 )hambord (garnish) 86 sauce 167 Champagne 43 ..157 ..157 auc hantansen sauce hantilly. cream 41 soup 4* Charcoal 42 harlotta 43 blackberry 18 peach 1S8 cherry 46 Chartreuse 42 & 65 peach 128 r 43 sauce 156 Chateaubriand 48 sane* 167 Jhaudfroid 48 sanoe 157 Cherries 44 brandled 45 In croustades 46 glazed, with whipped cream.... 46 berry charlotte 46 cobbler 46 compote 46 flawn.... 46 meringue 46 pie 46 ' deep 46 pudding 46 rol y-poly 46 sanoe 167 sherbet 4ft tarts 4ft trifle 4ft 177 Page Cherry water ioe 4 Cheese 43 biscuits... boinbe camera bert canapes 8 club cones cottage 48 custard 4 fingers 44 flans 44 fritters 4 gruy ere 92 liver, Italian style 3 lobster 101 omelet 4 parmesan 124 potted ramequlns sandwiches savories scallops 43 souffles 44 straws 4 Swiss 95 Cheesecakes, apple Chemise 4 Chervil 45 Chestnuts 45 devilled 46 forcemeat 46 puree of 46 & 145 soup 46 Cbevrenll sauce 157 Chiantl Chicken, blanched, with veloutesauc 48 blanquette of, with truffles boiled larded, with macaroni... 50 ' with salt pork, parsley sc 48 " with veg'bl.allemandesc 50 " boned 61 boucheeof 20 Cklcken, braised fillets of, Hanover sc 49 " with green peppers 49 " with macaroni 48 " with mushrooms... i>0 supreme 52 broiled 46 " hunter's style 48 Chicken broth with artichokes 56 " with asparagus 66 " with custards 5 " with onions 66 " with poached egg 6fi " with rice 65 " with sorrel 66 " with spring vegetabl's 56 Chicken canapes 35 cannelon of, tartar sauce 53 capllotade of 63 chartreuse of, with string beans 50 chandfrold of 60 with chestnut puree and veg'bls 48 co 1 1 ops of, with macaroni 54 consomme 6f> Chicken, cream of 55 " " with quenelles ... 65 " " with rice 65 ' with tomatoed quenelles 68 Chicken croquettes 46 croustades of 63 curried, with rice Chicken cutlets with green peas 60 mlncpd sc bordelalse 46 ' of, with vegetables.. 47 Chlcken.epigramme of, tomato sauce 48 Chicken, fillets of, with asparagus pts 50 ir4inal sauo 52 Pag Chicken giblets stewed, with rice .... 54 gumbo 6 Chicken halibut 98 and ham hashed with rice 6 ham and tongue sausage 140 haricot of. with vegetables 4 hash with peppers on toast. . . . " with stuffed peppers kromeskies, sauce perlguenx.. legs, boiled, witb green peas.. " devilled, witb bacon Chicken livers, brochette of " canapes of ... 22 ' forcemeat " omeletof roast, on toast " saute of, on toast.. " stewed, with mush'rs 64 Chicken, Maryland style 41 mateloteof 41 mayonnaise 56 & 16 a la Marengo 4! minced, with poached egg K panada with eggs on toast K patties, sauce supreme 61 pie 4i pies, small, French style 4' potted, for sandwiches K potpie puree of 66 quenelle forcemeat 5 " with mushrooms 61 " with truffles.BC supreme 63 with rice, maltese style 47 rissoles of 5 roast boned 5: ' with m ushr'ms & bread sc 48 " oyster sauce 4' salad 56&12 salpicon of , with potatoes 5 sausages, sauce Hollandaise ... 63 'hlcken, saute of, with bouchees .... 61 ' with mushrooms 4> " with oysters 6J " with potato balls 63 with rice and leeks . . with rlssoto Chicken, scalloped. Chicken soup, Creole style. '.'.'.'.'.'. '.'.'..'. 6 English style 55 with noodles with peas puree Portuguese style 65 with rice and .eeks 6 Southern style 66 Turkish style 56 with vegetab es 65 Chicken, ipitchcocked.crapandlne so. 49 Chicken Chicken forcemeat 50& 82 Chili sauce 167 ' balls curried, with rice 50 Chipolata. . . , 66 " fried, tomato sauce... 63 (garnish) 86 Chicken, fricassee of 4K Chi Chicken, fried 41; Chlvry (garnish) ' In hatter, tomato sauce 4R Chocolate breast of, corn fritters 52 ' with cucumber puree.. 4!' ' fricassee of 47 Indian style 49 " with rice and okras . . . . 52 Chicken fritters plquante sauce .... 53 galantine of 61 & 84 giblets, ragout of, with potato croquettes 64 glbletsoup 64 hlcken, stewed, with dumplings ' wlthestragon 60 " German style 61 " Mexican style 49 with rice 49 " sauce provenoale.. 62 " sauce ravigote 62 ' Spanish style 47 " with tomatoes 47 " Turkish style 47 tufled with chestnuts, Ma delra sauce 47 11 breast of, cucumbers 62 " " " sc.perigueu f 2 " Astewed.sc.mllanals 49 of, with rice. perigueux 47 " " with toulouse ragout 47 tim bales of .with f orc'meat balls 53 vol-au-vertof, with quenelles.. 51 Chicory 46480 salad 150 Chlffonade 66 Chillies 37 blancmange 56 cake 57 cream 67 " fritters M cup custards 67 float 67 fritter* 88 Icecream 67 Icing 76 Pudding 67 Choux de bruxelles croutons Chow chow 67 Chowder, cla codfish Philadelphia Chutney apple Cider Cinnamon extract of ... El ................................... broiled, lemon parsley sauce. . . 67 fillets of, in batter .............. 67 saute, julienne potatoes 57 Citric acid... ......... . ............... 58 Citron ................................. 58 cake ........................... 68 Civet of venison ....................... 173 Jlams.. broiled ........................... 6$ broth ............................. 68 chowder ........................ 68 cocktail .......................... 60 cream of ......................... 59 croquettes ....................... 58 forcemeat ....................... 68 fritters roast scalloped ionp steamed .. stew. 68 68 Claremont sauce 157 Claret sauce 167 Cloves 9 extractor 81 Club cheese 44 Cobbler 59 apple 4 cherry 45 peach 128 Ooblenz sausage 139 Cochineal 69 Coohon 69 delait.... 69 Cock-a-leekle soup 65 Jockie-leekle soup 69 Cookies... 69 Cocks-combs 59 Cocksk.rnelB 59 Cock tat Is 59 Neptune 60 oyster 60 Cocoa 69 Jocoannt 69 3ocotte 69 Cod, boiled salt, cream sauce 61 creamed fresh, on toast 60 crimped, shrimp sauce 61 cutlet fried, plquante sauce. . . . 60 an gratln 61 and oyster pie 123 French style 61 tod's roes, boiled, butter sauce 61 broiled, butter sauce 61 fried, caper sauce 61 smoked 61 'Od, salt, shredded and creamed 61 scalloped 61 scrambled, on toast 61 tod's sounds, fricassee of , with oystrs 61 stuffed, oyster sauce.. 61 'od steak, boiled, with anchovies... 60 breadcrumbed, parsley sc 60 broiled, colbert sauce 60 curried . with rlssoto 60 fried, tomato sauce 60 saute, club style 61 odflsh 60 baked, caper sauce 60 stuffed with oysters 60 breadcrumbed 60 " balls . boiled, egg sauce.. cakes chowder 81 hash, salt. New England style . 2 scalloped fresh! .'.'.'......... 61 odflsb tongues, boiled, egg sauce ... 61 patties 63 scalloped fresh .... 61 x>ffee 2 Icecream 63 Ognac 3 C-D Pa< 62 Pa< 65 Creamed fresh mushrooms 109 macaroni 104 sanoe 157 with turnips 65 Cole slaw 62 27 vermicelli volatile P5 65 onions oysters on toast Crecy 118 123 U Combination salads 154 Coq 66 Compote , 62 3 d. Brurere d'Inde 65 65 Creole canapes ""so'&m 18 Crepes . 18 Cordials 65 cherry 45 Coriander 65 66 Creplnettes 71 119 127 66 salad. 1 ] of pigeon 133 K2 Corned beef hash 15 71 Corn blanc mange 66 bread, jobnny cake or corn dodgr 66 dodger .... 5 Cretesdecoq 5!" 167 Conttture fritters 83 Conger eel, boiled, allemande sanoe . 78 " curried with riCd 78 " fried, tartar sauce 78 11 roast stuffed, admiral sc. 78 71 fritters ...66&8S 66 Croquenbouchees 67 71 67 ... . 3 g bass 62 hulled. 66 13 ... .62 Corn meal or Indian pudding 6 66 brain, with peas chicken S4 . 62 with asparagus tips 65 62 " mash . 66 clam 68 crab 63 mush fried 66 of ham with green peaa hominy beauvllllers 63 67 96 63 salad 67 112 . 63 67 104 brunoise 63 63 starch 87 .. . 123 67 partridge sauce Perlgu enz. ...126 13t> 41 & 63 67 ..63 66 potato 143 chantlHy 63 . ... 63 43 lot chicken Courtbouillon 67 stuffed potato . 63 157 16*5 63 63 turkey 170 63 baked n 71 with corn 66 63 17 & 69 caviar 40 67 67 cakes 126 ... 63 35 A 68 of rice 149 65 Creole style 68 63 71 71 d'Orsay ... 63 croustade of devilled 68 68 68 Cucumbers 71 71 63 63 71 63 . 68 curried 71 64 68 72 64 68 71 64 68 fried, with marrow 71 64 68 71 imperial '.".". 64 68 ketchup and onion salad pickled ::::::::: 8 73 Indienne 64 a la Reine 68 68 & 151 62 . 64 . . .69 71 64 salad 72 A 151 julienne 64 scalloped 68 157 Kurael 64 stuffed, with forcemeat 71 64 68 72 64 toast 67 68 Cap custards, chocolate .. .. ices 67 96 64 Marie Stuart 64 69 654 72 Massena. 64 Pranberrv iam 69 sauce 158 64 Card 64 je 7 ...... 69 Curing 64 roll . . . 69 72 64 158 dried 64 70 Naudier 64 70 64 157 70 Costard with noodles 64 bisque of 17 apple 3 Palestine 65 butter 20 cheese fritters |* 65 " brochette of 23 70 pattl 65 65 anchovy ;;;;;;;; > 3 Cutlets 77 Bavarian 72 Prince de Galles 65 40 Dandelion 73 65 41 salad. printaniere 65 chantllly 42 U Danish beef and pork sansag e 137 with quenelles Rachael. 65 66 ' " with quenelles .... 55 " " with rice -- >> Darloles... 73 66 67 73 of olnms 59 78 nvoll 66 dressing ...164 D'Artols .... 73 70 86 66 100 Dates 73 Bt. Xavier 65 65 of lentils 100 67 & 70 Date pudding Daube 73 73 66 flau "...70 73 65 . 121 (garnish) 86 65 70 73 talma ... 66 whipped. ... 70 Dent-de-llon 73 D-E Devils ................................. 73 Devilled almonds ..................... 1 .101 E-F F-G 179 oysters 121 rabbit 147 Dewberries 18 Diable sauce 168 Dlablotlns 73 Diamond back 73 Digest, medical table of time 73 Digestion 73 Eggs, shirred 78 stuffed 78 " with caviar 40 EKK plant, broiled, on toast 80 with cheese 80 fried 80 fritters 80 salad 151 stewed 80 stuffed 80 " Turkish style 80 Emlnce of crab (58 Dindon 74 Diplo mate sauce 158 Dolmas 74 Doucette (corn salad) 67 Doughbirds 74 Brawn butter 26 Dressing, cream 154 French 154 Hollandalse 164 Dry stew (oyster) 121 Duchesse (garnish) 86 sauce 168 Dumas (garnish) 86 Dumplings, apple 3 lemon 100 peach 128 Dnrand (garnish) 86 Dutch sauce 76 D'Uxelles 76 & 158 Duck, boiled, parsley sauce 74 boned stuffed, with aspic 74 braised, with sauerkraut 75 " with vegetables 75 curry, with rice 76 Ducks and ducklings 74 Ducks' giblet soup 16 " stewed, in border 76 Ducks' livers, brochette of 22 & 76 scallops 76 Duck, roast, orange sauce 74 " with peas, Hanover sauc 74 Duck, salplcon of, In cases 75 Duck, salmis of, in croustade 7i> " " with fried hominy.. 75 Duck, saute of, with chestnuts 75 " " with noodles 76 " " with olives 75 Duck, stewed, with green peas 76 " with puree of peas.... 76 with stuffed tomatoes. 76 " with turnips 75 Duck, stuffed, Italian sauce 76 Duckling, broiled.wlth devilled buttr 14 fillets of, macedoine 76 fried fillets of, sauce bigarade.. 76 stuffed, orange sauce 76 Ears, pig's 131 Kcarlate 77 Ecarlette (garnish) 87 Eclairs 57&77 Eel-pout 78 Eel salad 77 & 151 Eels 77 baked, London style 77 boiled, maitre d'hotel 77 brochette of 22 broiled boned 77 braised, Allemande sauce 77 fricassee of 77 fried, shrimp sauce 77 grilled, London style 77 matelote of 77 orly of 77 roast, anchovy butter 77 stewed, London style 77 Egg patties 78 powder 6 rarebit 78 salad 161 En caisse. dive lad. English beef soup. Splgramme Kpplng sausage Espagnole sauce.. Extracts Extract of Aniseed 81 of bitter almond 81 of cinnamon 81 of cloves 81 of lemon 81 of sarsaparilla 81 of vanilla 81 of wlntergreen 81 Tancy fry (oysters) 122 Farina 81 pudding, baked 81 " boiled 81 fritters 81 Fat, fresh lard-back 131 pigs gut 1 31 pigs kidney 131 Fennel. 81&158 Fermlere (garnish) 87 Figs 81 Flnanciere 81 sauce (garnish) Fine herbs sauce innanhaddie Eggs. breaded, Creole sauce 79 with brown butter 79 with caviar 79 In croustade 79 curried 78 devilled 78 fricassee ef 7J an grat In 7f Indian style 7{ masked. Madeira sauce 78 molded, provencale sauce 78 with onion puree 79 poached 78 salplcon of 79 scrambled " In oases 71 " with tomatoes 79 " Aberdeen style.. " butter sauce " with tomatoes... boiled.. " cream sauce 98 broiled 81 " lobster butter... 93 Delmonico style 81 saute, parsley sauce. . . 93 Flageolets 9&82 Flamande (garnish) 87 flannel cakes 82 Flannel griddle cakes flemish sauce , Float, chocolate 57 Flounders 82 chocolate 83 chocolate cream 56 confiture j-3 corn 66483 crab 68 cream 70 custard 83 egg-plant 80 farina 81 fruit 83 German 83 orange 83&119 oyster plant 124 parsnip 83*126 peach 83&128 pineapple 83 potato 143 Queen ts rhubarb 149 rice 83 Spanish puff 83 Progs 83 fried, tartar sauce 83 omelet, Southern style 84 Frogs legs, broiled 83 " fricassee of 83 " saute, bordelaise 84 poulette 84 " provencale 84 " Southern style 84 " stewed, with peas 83 Fruit fritters 83 jelly 97 Tnmet sauce 169 Gala Flour.graham 90 Foie-gras.. : 82 bouchee of 20 Fonds d'artlcbauta a 1'Itallenne 6 alaMontglas.... 5 a la Strasbourg.. 6 a la Supreme .... 6 Forbidden fruit.... Forcemeat .., Forcemeat balls, chicken, curried. liver Forcemeat, brain 34 chestnut 46 chicken 50 & 82 fried, tomato sauce 63 " liver 54 " quenelle 61 clam 68 crab ham and liver veal Fore hams or California shoulders. . .132 Fowl, boudin of : 21 Frangipane 82 Frankforts 82 Frankfort sausages (welnerwnrst) . . .140 Frappe 82 French dressing 82 & 15 French salad 161 Frlantine Fricadelles: also called Fricandelles. 82 Fricandean 82 78 Fries, lamb 99 Fritters 89 apple 8A83 Fritters, apple custard. Page anchovy ...lit 2 apricot 4*83 artichoke banana 7 brioche 73 candied peel '." 82 celery 41 cheese 44 cherry 45 chicken, piquante sauce 53 olai tines . f-4 93 Game. Galantine of turkey 170 Sail (pig's) 131 bouchee of I.'.'.'.'.'.';.".";;.'!.'!''.'.'.' 20 boulettes of 21 salad li2 puree, bouchee with 20 Garden parties 84 Gardener's salad 151 Garfish 85 Garlic 85 batter 26 Garnishes 85 158 Garniih, admiral Africaine Allemande Andalouse Anglaise D'Artols.. Aurora.. Bohemienne 86 Bordelaise 86 Bourgeoise 86 Bourgignonne 86 bourglgnotte 86 Bretonne 86 cardinal 86 chambord 86 chi polata 86 ohlvry 86 86 Dauphine Duchesse 86 Dumas 86 Dnrand 86 ecarlate 87 f ermlere 87 flnanclere 87 flamande 87 godard 87 gourmet . . 87 Greque 87 Hussard 87 Journeanz 87 an jns 86 macedoine , 87 Marinlere 87 matelote 87 Mtlanalse 87 mushroom 108 Napoli taine 17 NlverralM 87 88 i8o Q Page Garnish, paysanne perigueux , provencale Regency Hichelieu 8f Rouennalse 88 Royale boubise Stanley supreme 89 tortu 8S Toulouse t>9 Geese livers, brochvtte of 2S Gems, corn Geneveise sauce Genoise sauce 159 German fritters potato salad 152 sauce 159 salad 161 Gherkins Giblets 89 pie 64489 pot pie 64 and potato pie 64 ragout of, with potato croquette 89 sauce 54&89&159 soup " clear with rice stewed, with green peas Glace 89 Globe artichokes, Colbert sauce " stuffed Godard sauce 159 (garnish) Godlveau 82 ^ Goidenbuck 43 sauce 159 Goose boiled, with pickled pork 90 braised, with sausages 90 " with vegetables 90 with kraut, German style 90 roast, apple sauce 90 ' green, gooseberry sauce.. 90 " with oyster stuffing 90 " stuffed with chestnuts... 9U " stuffed with godlveau... 90 Stuffed, with glazed apples 90 " with glazed turnips.... 90 Goose liver sausage, truffled 140 Gooseberry sauce 90 & 159 Gorgonzola 90 Goulash Gourmet (garnish) Graham flour 90 griddle cakes 8 Grape fruit 91 Jam 90 Jelly 90 Grapes, frosted 90 Gray llngr 91 Green corn batter cakes 67 " roast 67 " saute Green grape Jelly 91 Green pea sou p 129 Green turtle soup. 171 Greengage 91 Green and wax beans. . . 9 Grenadins 91 Greque (garnish) 87 Griddle cakes 8 Grouper 92 baked, Gulf style 92 boiled, caper sauce 92 " matelote garnish 92 ante, lobster sauce 92 stuffed and baked, tomato sane 92 Grouse 91 broiled, with bacon . 91 braised, with glazed carrots.... 91 cutlets breadcrum bed 92 glazed, sauce trianon 91 roast, bread sauce 91 " hunters style 91 " Scotohstyle 91 salmis of 91 stewed, with green peas 91 stuffed fillets of. with quenelles 91 mushroom sauce 91 Gruel, cdrn meal 66 Gruyereor Swiss (cheese) 92 (iuava 92 Guinea hen 92 " braised stuffed 92 " broiled, with bacon 92 " roastlarded 92 - " sauce Beam also... 92 G-H H-I-J-K-L 66 oyster 124 Gut fat ( pigs) 131 Haddock 92 baked stuffed 92 boiled, oyster sauce 92 broiled fresh, anchovy butter.. 93 creamed, with oysters 93 fillets of, breadcrmb'd, Dutch sc " " saute 93 Haggis 93 Hair (pigs) 13 Halibut 93 baked, egg sauce RS boiled 93 creamed, with mushrooms 93 Halibut steak, boiled, cream sauce.. 93 " broiled 93 creamed, with mushr's 93 " fried, with bacon . . . " saute, tomato sauce.. 93 boiled, with lima beans 9* braised, with vegetables 91 croquettes of, with green peas and liver forcemeat 82 minced, with egg 94 Hams.... ....131) pickling 13U " ofrolled 182 Ham, roast, champagne sauce 94 " stuffed 9 sauce 159 stewed, with spinach 94 Hamburg steak with onions 13 tomatoed 94 mover sauce 169 ird sauee It9 Hare 94 braised, with game croquettes. 94 bondln of 21 civet of, hunters style 94 cutlets of, plquante sauce 95 fillets of, sautes 91 " " polvrade sauce 9 ' " tomato sauce 9 fried fillets of 95 jugged 95 larded saddles of 95 scallops of, with fine herbs 95 ' " with tongue, sauce perigueux ... stuffed saddle of, with Jelly Haricot beans, Boston style with bacon cream sauce puree Haricot soup, family style H arrogate sauce 159 Hash, beef 14 chicken, with peppers, on toast. 53 ' with stuffed peppers.. 63 corned beef 15 salt codfish, New England style t>2 Hashed chicken and ham with rice.. 64 Havraise sauce 169 Heart, pigs LSI Heath fowl, salmis of 19 Herbs, fine 81 Herring baked fresh, fennel sauce 95 " stuffed 95 bisque of 17 boiled fresh, cream sauce 9 " fresh, shrimp sauce 96 boned fresh, on toast 95 broiled fresh, mustard sauce... 95 curried fresh, with eggs 95 fried fresh, mustard butter 95 alad 152 soused 95 Hickory 96 Hoe cakes 98 Hollandalse dressing :64 sauce 159 Horseradish 96 butter 26 & sm Hominy 96 boiled 9 croquettes 96 Honey, quince 140 Hoofs (pigs) 131 Hot slaw 27 ot pot or botch potch 96 Hulled corn 66 Hunter's style Hussard (garnish) 1 ce, ap pie '. '. . ] ] i . "3 Icecream 70 banana : . . . 7 chocolate 67 coffee 6S Iced froths 96 peaches 128 snowballs . 96 Imperial 96 Tcing, chocolate... Imperial ices Indian canapes-... 67 omelet pudding stew (oyster). Indlenne sauce hi Irish stew 96 & 111 Isinglass 97 Italian salad 152 sauce, white and brown 160 Jack rabbit, bisque of 17 Jam.apricot 4 blackberry 18 cranberry 69 grape 90 orange 119 rhubarb 148 Jardiniere (garnish) 97 sauce 160 Jell led oranges 119 Jelly 97 apricot 97 aspic 6 blackberry 97 calf's feet 80 cran berry 69 cherry 45 fruit 97 grape 90 green grape 91 lemon 97 macedoine 9i orange 97 peach 127 pineapple 97 pistachio 67 plum 135 quince 146 raspberry 97 rhubarb 14S ribbon 97 Russian 97 strawberry 97 West Indian 97 nle Li nd pancakes 8 inny cake 66 " apple 3 Jollefille sauce 160 Journeaux (garnish) 87 Jugged hare 95 JulUnne 97 Juniper 97 Kale. salad 152 Ketchup, cucumber 72 Khulash or goulash 97 Kidney bea^is 9 ' incream 9 English style 9 French style 9 German style 9 panaches 9 Kidneys 97 fat (pigs) 181 pigs LSI Klrsch or klrsohenwasser 6- Kirschwasser 98 Kingflsh 97 boiled, sauce Normade 97 broiled, lemon butter 97 with fl e herbs 97 fried til lets of, breadcrumbed. . 98 saute, sauce Colbert 98 Knockpolse or hard smoked DacUh sausage 137 i) rabl 98 Coumlss P8 Kromeskies 71 & 9 of sweetbreads 107 K'immel 65 & v8 _.ake trout fried, tomato sauce 168 Lamb, blanqnetteof 98 boiled 98 braised 96 Lamb, curried 9f cutlets of 99 emlnoeof 99 eplgramme of '.' fricassee of 98 hashed, with poached egg '..'. fries " broohetteof 23 kidneys, brooheue of 21 noisettes of, alaMalntenon....lU ragout of santeof 98 scallops of , with rice 99 stewed 98 " garnished sweetbreads in cases 99 Larding pork 181 Larks, bouchee of 21 Lasagnes 9 Leek 99 soap, Scotch style 99 Leeks, boiled 99 Lemons 100 cream 1 OC dnmpllngs 100 extract of Jelly 97 marmalade 100 mincemeat 100 ance 100 sonp 100 trifle 100 Lentils 100 cream of 100 sonp 100 Lettuce 100 baked stuffed 101 and cucumber salad 101 and onion salad 100 salad 100 & 162 and tomato salad ....100 Lererpolse or liver sausage 137 Lererpostej, llverwnrst or Danish liver sausage 138 Lima beans boiled cream of 9 puree. 9 " of 146 salad 9&152 saute 8 LImejulcer 101 Limes iOl Limburger cheese 43 Liver 101 cheese, Italian style 31 curried, with forcemeat 10 forcemeat balls 32 fried, with onions 101 klosse 32 pigs 131 pudding 101 ragout of 101 and salt pork 101 saute of 101 sausage 137 & 140 Llvernalse sauce 160 LI vournaise sauce 160 L '.verwurst sausage 138 Lobster in aspic cream 101 baked, in shell 102 bisqueof 17 & 103 Horde la i se 102 bouchee of. 20 & 102 brochetteof 22 & 102 broiled live 102 butter 26 cheese 101 croquettes 102 curried 102 cutlets 102 devilled 101 escalloped 102 fricassee of 102 an gratin 101 mayonnaise of 101 mazarlns of 101 in 1 ro ton of 101 mulllgatawney 103 Ne wburg 102 omelet 102 and oyster pie 102 patties 102 rissoles of 10S salad 101&152 salpioon of 102 sandwich 102 scalloped 101 oup L-M Lobster sonp, Creole style Mariner's style 103 stewed 10S stuffed toast 102 with tomatoes 102 usts 108 Lungs, pigs 181 Lyons sausage 140 Lyonnalse sauce 16U Macaroni 108 baked, and sheese 103 buttered 181 creamed. piaii 04 with eggs 104 Creole style 108 croquettes 1-4 with fish flakes 104 Genoise style 104 an gratln KB with ham 104 Italian style 113 with lamb kidneys 1(M with oyster butter 104 as the Monks like it 108 and oysters, Milan style 103 pudding 104 with sausages uu with spinach puree 104 tlmbales of 1U4 " " and forcemeat 104 and tomatoes Macedoine 105 (garnish) 87 Jelly 97 salad 162 Mackerel 106 baked fillets of 106 stuffed fillets of 105 boiled 105 " salt 105 broiled salt ,.. ..105 " stuffed 105 buttered 105 fillets of. sautes 106 fried, butter sauce 105 soused 105 Madeira 106 mce 160 Madelines 106 Madras canapes 36 Maintenon sauce 160 Maitre d'hotel butter 26 sauce 105&160 Mallard 106 broiled, maitre d'hotel 106 " fillets of. game sauce 106 fried, orange sauce 106 salmis of 106 provencale style 106 roast, American style 105 Mango 106 Maraschino 65 & 106 rinade 106 M arln iere (garnish ) 87 Margarine 26 arjoram 106 armalade 1C6 & 134 apple 3 apricot 4 cherry 46 Marrong lemon _ orange 119 peach 127 quince 146 Marrow bouohee with Marzipan 1P6 Mastic 106 Matelote (garnish) 87 & 106 sauce 160 Mayonnaise : 106 aspic 107 of celery 41 chicken 66 & 151 of lobster 101 of salmon 166 sane* 161 Mazarlns 107 of lobster 101 Meat olives (pauplettes) 127 Medallions 107 Melons 107 103 Melon preserve 107 Meringue 10T cherry 46 Ignons de boeuf aux truffle* 16 Mllanatse (garnish; 67 & 107 omelet 117 sauce 161 Milt 107 Mincemeat 107 lemon 100 Mint 107 sauce 161 Mook turtle soup, elear 29 " thick 99 Molasses 108 Montpelier butter'.!.] '.'.... .V.'.'.'. ....'.. 28 Mosaic sausage 139 Muffins, corn f9 Mullet. . Mulligatawny, lobster 108 Muscallonge 109 Mushrooms 108 baked, on toast 108 bouchee with 21 broiled 108 catsup. creamed fresh ................... 1C8 tnoroustades .................... 108 fricassee of ................ 108 A 109 garnish ......................... 108 omelet .......................... 109 pureeof ................. 108 & 148 rissoles .......................... 109 sauce .......................... 108 (brown and white) ........ 191 sauteof ........................ 108 stewed ......................... 108 stuffed, Creole style ............. 108 ' Itallansance ............ 108 " on toast ................. 1C9 Mussels ............................... 1C9 bread ed.vllleroi sauce .......... 109 brochetteof .............. 224109 creamed ......................... 1 09 fisherman style ................. 109 fricassee of ..................... 109 fried ............................. H9 Italian style ..................... 109 pan roast of ..................... 109 sauce ........................... It 9 sautes of fine herbs ............. li 9 scalloped ........................ 109 steamed, lemon butter sauce. . 1C9 stewed .......................... li 9 Mustard .............................. 113 and cress ........................ 110 Mutton ................................ 110 boiled leg of ..................... 110 " withturulps .............. Ill Mutton, braised breast of, Italian so ill larded leg of ......... 110 leg of ............... 110 " " with beans ...110 " wlthveget'blslll boned loin of ....... 1:3 stuffed leg of ........ 110 Mutton, breast of. with turnips ...... Ill broohette of ..................... 23 broiled breasts of ............. Ill casseroles of .................... 112 Mutton chop, breaded, beans puree. 112 " mushroom pureel 12 " perlgneux sauce!13 braised, garnished... .113 broiled, garnished.. ..114 with buttered corn.... 118 fried Italia* sauce... 112 with glazed siew carotsl 12 with peas puree ....... 112 with potato border. ... 112 provence style ........ 112 saute, sauce Sonblse.. 112 Southern style ........ 112 with truffles ........... 112 Mutton, coated cutlets of ............. Ill croustades of, with poached eggl!3 curry of, with rice. ............. 1 ' 1 Mutton cutlets, baked, with apples.. 112 f ried.ref orm e ga rnlsh 1 1 3 saute, with fine herbs 113 Mutton, fried breast of ............... Ill glased breast of ................. Ill harlcotof ...................... Ill hashed, with peppers ..... 112 & 113 noisettes of, an Madere ......... 114 pie, English style .............. ."? ragout of. with tomatoes ...... ill rissoles of. sauce Hollandalse. .112 roast leg of ...................... HO rolled shoulder of, oyster sanoelll X82 M-N-0 0-P Pave Mutton, rolled stuffed breast of Ill tew with vegetables 113 staffed breast of, sauce Robert 111 Nantaise sauce . . 161 Onions boiled 118 braised 118 in cream sauce 118 fried 118 sauce-coated, fried 122 scalloped 121 Napolitaine (garnleh) 87 glazed . 118 Nasturtium 114 pickled 118 stuffed and b'rol led 123 " brown 119 " with flsh quenelles 119 Onion salad 118 & 152 suprems of 123 Negus . . 66 Onion sauce .118 " whlteand brown 161 Onion soup with cheese canapes 118 " with crusts 118 Newburg 69 Nenfchatt.1 114 Niceoise sance 161 Oyster plant, boiled 124 vinegar 118 " fritters 124 de veau 114 Oranges, bouchee of 2] " sauce poulette 124 saute .... 124 Noodles 114 canape of 119 fritters 83 & 119 Noyeau . 65 & 114 ices 96 apple 3 Nutmeg- 114 jam 118 Berlin 73 jellied 119 French 8 jelly. ... 97 Jenny Lind 8 Oenf s a la oocotte 69 Okra 116 marmalade 119 pie 119 Swiss 8 salad 115&153 baked, pudding 119 Paplllote sauce 162 Olives.^. . 116 sauce . 119 & 161 trifle 119 Parsley . 124 Ua podrida 116 broiled 120 Algerienne 117 bouchee of 21 baked 125 brochette of 120 cream sance 125 In cases 120 apricot 4 Incroustade 120 fritters 83 & 125 fried 120 roast IzO mashed 125 with asparagus points 80 & 116 with bacon 79 & 115 truffled 120 Partridge *lth bacon, parsley sauce. U (5 bisque of 17 Ox tails, braised, with kidney beans. 16 " clear 13 " curried, with spaghetti 16 boiled 125 with calf's brains 117 with calf's head 29 & 117 braised, with cabbage 126 breadcrumbed and broiled 126 breast of, glazed vegetables 126 " " larded and fried 125 " sauce colbert 125 broiled 125 croquettes, sauce terlgueux . . . 126 calf's kidney 31 " haricot of 16 & 120 wlthoepes 42 & 79 & 115 cheese 44 with cheese 9 & 115 " soup 12( " " clear 120 ' thick 13 of chicken livers 64 & 79 & 115 with chicken puree 117 Chlpolata 117 Ox tongue, boiled 120 " braised fresh 121 ' plokllngof 132 " smoked, German style. . .121 Ox palates, bouchee with 21 with chipped beef 79 & 115 crab 68 Creole 80 & 117 epigrammeof, with mnsbrooa125 fillets of , with crayfish 1S6 with custard cream 117 with BKK plant 80&116 financiers 117 Oysters, baked, with cheese 122 Italian style 123 withiausbrooms.. ..122 " with potatoes 122 bashed, with egg !."..126 larded and braised 125 with fine herbs 79&116 rissoles, sance Richelieu 126 with French or small green peas 80 & 116 frog, Southern style 84 with bam 79 & 116 salmi of . 1?5 boucheeof 20 salpicon Of 128 saute .. 126 Indian 117 broohetteof 21&122 broiled 121 " with rlwoto. 126 with jelly 117 with lamb kidneys . 79 it, 116 " breadcrnmbed . . . 121 " shell 121 with marmalade 117 In casserole 123 Mllanalse 117 with celery 123 with minced chicken 80 A 116 mushroom 109 cocktail 60 brain. 25 creamed on toast 123 of calf's kidneys . . 31 of carp roes 88 celery.. 41 with olives 80 & 1 16 croquettes 123 with onions 116 chicken, supreme sauce 61 cod flsh tongue 62 eeg ...... 78 oyster 128 curried 123 with oysters . . 80 & 116 outlets minced 124 with parsley 80 A 1 16 devilled 121 lobster 1' 2 dry stew. 122 with rum 117 savory, of calf's brains 26 fancy fo 122 partridge 126 fricassee of 122 shrimp 117 with shrimps, Mexican sty 79 & 116 fried 122 of scrambled calf's sweetbr'ds . 83 of sweetbreads 167 turkey . 171 souffle 117 Indian stew 121 Spanish 80 A 11'' loaf 122 'auplettes of cabbage 27 with spinach . 80 A 116 omelet 123 with spring vegetables.... MIX in; with sweetbreads 7!tJtll patties 123 Peach . 127 panned 121 Philadelphia ttew 121 ambrosia 127 with tomatoes 60 & 1 16 with tomatosd rice 80 & 116 with truffles. .. .. 117 pie 123 with veal kidneys 794 Ii5 Onions, baked, stuffed 118 rissoles 124 croutons with glazed fruits 128 dumplings.... 128 roast shell. ... ....121 jelly 127 marmalade 1V7 pie 128 shortcake 18 tartlettes 128 trifle 128 Peaches, bonchee of 2; bottled 128 brandy 127 compote of 127 with cream 127 Iced 128 with rice 127 with rice croquettes 127 spiced 127 Peanut 128 Pear 128 alligator 1 Peas 129 pureeof 129&145 pudding 129 Pepper 129 butter 26 Peppermint 129 Peppdr pot 129 Perch 129 Perlgueux (garnish) 87 (sauce) 129&161 Persimmon 129 Pheasant 130 braised.. broiled 130 roast 130 Philadelphia capon 37 clam chowder 68 scrapple 164 stew (oyster) 121 Ple.apple.... 8 " custard 3 beefsteak and kidney 14 " mushroom. 14 " " oyster 14 blackberry 18 blackbird.. cherry 46 " deep 45 chicken 4 " small, French style 4 cod and oyster 123 French style 61 cranberry 69 glblet 54*89 " and potato 54 lobster and oyster 102 mutton, English style 113 orange 118 oyster 123 peach 128 a 133 pumpkin '45 rabtlt 147 rhubarb 148 steak and ojster 123 veal and oyster 172 venison 178 Picallili 130 Pickle 130 Pickles 130 Pickle rumps 130 Pickled beets 16 cabbage 27 cauliflower 40 cucumbers 72 onions 118 Pickling beef and hams 130 for bams or Calif, shoulders.. . .132 of oxtongues of relied hams 132 Pieddecocbon Pigeon* 133 braised, with flageolets " garnished 184 breastsof 134 compote of 133 croustade curried " with rice 133 fricassee of 134 larded, garnished pie 133 potted 133 roast. ~_ " with tomatoes) 134 salm Is of 138 saute of 134 tewed, with mushrooms U3 tuffed, with potatoes 133 " with vegetables 183 Pi i Die fritters 83 jelly 97 Pintail.. Piquante (sauce) 134 & 162 Pistachio 13* jelly 97 Pig products 130 Pigs bladders 131 blood 531 DOPCB 181 brain 131 caul 131 ears 181 feet 131 gall 13i gut fat 131 ham 131 head stuffed 131 heart 131 kidneys 181 brochetteof 181 kidney fat 131 liver 131 Inngs 131 shoulders 131 kin 131 snout 131 spleen 131 stomach 131 tall 131 tongue... 131 Plain stew (oyster) 121 Planked shad 164 Plovers, bisque of 17 breast of. en salmi 134 " " with sweetbreads.... 134 broiled, on toast 134 roast 184 Plum butter. Plums Jelly marmalade pudding .134 185 135 .. ..134 135 134 boncheesof 21 Poivrade sance 162 Polenta 66 Polish sausage 14 Polonaise sauce 162 Pompano 185 Pop corn 67 Porgle 135 Porte and be* ns, baked Pork, boned boiled salt leg of Pork chops, broiled 136 " fried .136 " sautees Id6 Pork, cold rolled belly of, stuffed olivel36 croquettes, anchovy sauce 136 emlnce of . with fried apples. .. .136 fried salt with apple* 136 " kidneys ISP larding 136 minced, with fried apples 136 roast loin of 136 " lego* 186 salt, with parsnips 136 sausages 136&141 sausage seasoning 141 stuffed leg of 136 Pork tenderloin, braised ~ broiled 136 corned 135 curried 13f stuffed 135 with sweet potatoes 135 Portuguese sance 162 Potage a la comtesse Potato casseroles 143 croquettes 143 " stuffed 143 fritters 143 patties 143 puffs 143 quenelles 143 ragout 143 salad 15S| soup 144 Potatoes 142 Anglaise 144 baked in their skins 142 barlgonle 144 Bernhardt 14* Msrnomip 144 when boiling 142 brabanconne 144 brabant 144 bretonne 144 broiled 14? in cases 143 Potatoes, chateau 144 colbert 144 oonde 144 cottage fried. 142 Creole 143 curried 148 duchesse 143 to extract frost from 142 French fried '42 Genevolse 144 German fried 142 glazed 143 home fried 142 gastronome 144 hashed brown 142 " Incream 142 Hollandaise 143 Indienne 142 julienne 142 Lyonnalse 142 Marie 143 maitre d'hotel 143 Monaco 144 Navarraise 148 Orstnl 143 Farisienne 142 ruree of 145 RiU 14 ante 142 " home fried, cottage fried, Germanfrled 142 scalloped 142 In steaming 143 stewed with bacon... 142 " Incream 142 " Parisienne 143 stuffed 143 Victoria 143 Tlilageoiie 1 43 Pot pie, beef 14 Chicken 46 giblet 64 oyster 123 Pot roast. ... .......................... 10 Potted cheese ......................... 44 chicken for sandwiches ......... F3 ham, canapes of ................. 35 tongue, canapes of ............. 35 Ponlette .............................. 144 sauce ...................... 144 &1R2 lines ................ .............. 67 Prairie chicken ....................... 144 broiled 144 roasted 144 salmisof 144 Prawns, bisque of 17 lelor Preserved pumpkin rind 145 Prickly pear 128 Provencal* (garnish) 88 sauce 146 & 162 ld 'ba*ke a d P f aVinal '..'."'. .\'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.\ 81 " orange 119 black 19 blackberry is boiled farina 61 cheese 44 cherry 46 chocolate 67 date 73 farina, baked, boiled 81 grated corn FT Indian 66 liver 101 macaroni 104 peas 1 plum 1?5 Puffs 145 appl* 3 Pumpkin 146 baked 146 pic 145 rind, preserved 145 Punch 66 Roman .149 Puree 146 of artichoke* 146 asparagas 6 of asparagus 1*5 beans with onions 9 of beans a la eoublse 9 of Bermuda onions 118 brown onion 119 of carrots 146 of celery 1*> i8 4 P-Q-R R-S S Puree of celery and onions of chestnuts 146 of chicken 66 " " with tomatoed quenelles So crecy 39&71 of cucumbers 71 haricot beans 9 Rolypoly. Page! ...149, Of mushrooms 108 & 146 onion " with flab qt of onions of peas pumpkin of seakale. 146 apple cherry 46 Romaine salad. Koman punch. Roquefort cheese 1491 Salmon trout, baked. . Hi uennaise (garnish) 88' " w Royal custards. Roynle (garnish) Russian jelly 97 Rye. Had. sauce . 153 .164 160 of spinach 145 Sage sauce 163 of tomatoes H5 Salad, alligator pear 160 .146 ....146 roast ............................ 146 Queen fritters ........................ 83 Quince honey .......................... 146 Jelly ............................. 140 in ar ni alade ...................... 146 Babbit, blanquette of ................. 147 boudin of ....................... 21 braised, with tomato sauce ____ 146 brochetteof .................... 22 broiled .......................... 147 " saddle of ................ 146 carried with rice .............. 1481 cutieta, fried .................. 147! " tomato sauce ........... 147 devilled ......................... 147 enlgranime of .................. ]47 fillets garnished, sc. perigueux.147 fricassee of ..................... 146 minced, on toast ................ 147 pie ........... .................. H7 potted ...................... . ..146 ragout of ....................... 147 saute of .......................... 147 salpicon of ...................... 147 smothered, with onions ......... 147 stewed, German style .......... 146 " with vegetables ........ 147 Radish salad ......................... )!3 Raifort sauce .......................... 1<3 Rameqnins, cheese .................. 43 chovy 2 & 150 Saratoga chips artichoke 16U ~ and onion.. " and tomato asparagus and cauliflower 6 banana .......................... 7 bean ......................... ....150 beet and egg ................ 17 &l. U " and potato ............ 17 & 150 cabbage ..................... 27 & 150 carrot, with asparagus tips. .. cauliflower ................. 40 & 150 Yorkshire ...................... 43 Raspberries .......................... 148 Raspberry Jelly ........................ 97 vinegar ............... ......... 14H Ratafia ................................. 65 Ravigote butter ....................... 26 sauce ....................... U8&162 Ravloles ............................... 148 Reform sauce ........................ 163 Regency (garnish) .................... H! sauce ....................... ..... 163 Red cabbage salad .................... 27 stewed, with sausages.. 27 Red grouper, baked, Spanish sauce.. 92 Red haricot beans .................... Red pepper ...................... ..... 129 Kedsn ap per , baked ......... ......... 148 boiled ............................ 148 broiled ....... . ................. 148 saute ............................ 148 stuffed ......... .............. ..148 Reedbirds, bonchee of ............... 21 brochette of ..................... 23 Relne Claude .......................... 91 Kemouiade sauce ..................... 163 Rhubarb compote ..................... 148 wtthcubtard ....... . ............ 148 fritters ........................... U9 Jam ............................. 148 Jelly ............................ 148 meringue ...................... 149 pie ............................... 148 Ribbon Jelly. .......... ................ 97 Rice. .................................. 149 croquettes ....................... 149 croustadesof ..... fritters.... griddle cakes ... Rlceblrds, bouchee of 21 Richelieu (garnish) 88 Sally Lnnn sauoe lf.3 Salmi Salmis. Rissoles 149 of sweetbreads 1W Rissolettes ... 32 & 149 Robert sauoe 163 Roe. 149 sauce 163 BOIl, cranberry 68 chicory codfish combination corn crab cre*s mayonnaise of 166 alad 168 smoked 166 " cans steaks or cut 168 ith tomatoes. . 168 broiled 1 8 ' aaute 168 Salpicon, bonchee with 21 Salsify 155 salad 153 Baited almonds 1 Sandwich, anchovy 2 cheese 4* lobster 102 oyster 124 potted beef for 15 ;oga chips 143 rdines, bouchee of 21 Sardine canapes 36 liver sausage 139&140 salad 153 Sarsaparilla, extract of nd salmon.... 6 Saster sausage 142 15 ItOi 154i 671 68 & 151 151 cucumber ................... 72 & 1.' 1 " and or ion ............ 73 dandelion ....................... 151 eel ............ . ............. 77&151 egg ............................... 161 egg plant ....................... 151 endive ......................... 161 French .......................... 161 game ........................... 162 gardeners. ....................... 151 German ......................... 151 " Potato ................. 162 herring .......................... 112 Italian ........................... 152 kale .............................. 152' lettuce ..................... 100 & 152 and cucum her 10 1 1 chasseu r . ace, ad m iral 156 A 1 bert 155 allemu nde 156 almond If 5 anchovy 2 & 155 andaluslan ir.5 aprlcct 44155 aurora 156 avigno n 1 56 Bavarian 155 Bearnaise lf>6 bechamel 70*155 Bey rout 166 biprarade 166 Bohemian 166 Bordelaise, brown and white... 1R6 bourgeoise 156 bourglgnotte. . . 156 brandy 23 Bressoise 166 Bretonne, hot and cold 156 caper 156 ' forflf-h 1.S6 cardinal 156 carrot 15 cauliflower 40 & 156 celery, white and Drown 156 chadeau 157 chambord 157 champagne 157 chautauKcn 167 .166 " andonicn IWJi " andtomato 100 lima bean 9 & 152 lobster 101 & ]52 macedoine... 152 okra 1 1 :> & 153 onion lis &J52 oyster 152 oyster plant 15* partridge 12fi&153 jotato 1-3 red cabbage 27 radish...?! 153 Romaine J53 Russian 153 salsify 153 salmon }*f sardine }<> Pcotch }53 shrimp 153 Southern '68 Spanish 153 Swedish 153 sweetbread 35 & } tartare ^ tomato J3 turkey J'l veal 154 watercress Salamander J64 .149 Salami ....141 de Verona 141 8 Salisbury steak with grilled potatoes 13 with mushrooms 13 154 154 Salmon, baked 154 boiled 154 bouchee of 21 broiled 154 bisque of 17 (cold, boiled) 164, .154) Chateaubriand 157 chaudfroid If 7 cherry 1 57 chevreutl 157 chili 157 C 1 aremon t 167 claret 157 Colbert 1 57 court- bouillon 157 crab 69 cranberry 158 crapaudlne 157 cream 70 Creole 167 crevette 157 cucumber 157 Curacoa 168 curry 167 custard 168 Cznrina 1*7 diable 158 d iplomate 158 dovee 159 duchesse 158 Dutch IS d'uxelles 168 egg 158 espapnole 163 fennel 81 & 158 flnanciere 158 fine herbs 81 & 158 flen-lsh 168 f umet 1 69 Genevolse 169 Genolse 189 German 159 giblet 64&89&159 Godard 169 gol en 169 gooseberry 90&159 ham... 169 Hanover 159 bard 169 159 Sausa 1 ver Pace Page Soup, chicken, with peas puree 66 " Portuguese stvle 66 ' with rice and leeks. ... 66 " Southein style 66 " Turkish style 66 " with vegetables 65 Soup, clear mock turtle 29 . 159 138 159 .... 138 15! liver Indienne '::::. 159 Lyons (German recipe) . . . ... .141 139 [ la'jan. white and brown 16( 160 oberland liver Poiibb 141 141 160 lemon 101 pork 13B&141 dam 69 Jl vernal*!? sardine and liver saster 139 & 140 142 Cuck-a leekie 65 .. .160 1 vonnalse 141 160 . 160 Thunnglan red 141 142 crabgumbo 69 maitre d'hotel 160 Ml niavnni aisfi 161 142 161 137 141) mushroom . ..108 Weatphalian 142 Soup, green pea 129 ' white and brown.. ..16 Sarory canapes 36 " turtle 171 haricot, bean, family style 9 leek, Scotch style 99 lemon loo lentil 100 Nantalse 161 161 broobette of 23 43 163 Nlceolse nonpareil 161 16! . ...161 Scotch beef soup canapes 3b lobster ..VJ8 " Creole style 103 118 1R4 161 Seakale 164 mock turtle, thick 29 onion, with cheese canapes.... 118 " withcrubts 118 ox tall 120 orange 119 & Uil .123 & 161 162 pnreeof Reasoning, porksautage 146 141 164 Darslev 101 Shad 164 16] baked .. . 164 161 " stuffed 165 potato 144 Scotch beef 13 .. 162 boiled 16ft 162 fried . ... 165 ' 164 split pea 129 162 . .. Itf2 166 poulette 144 & 162 162 Shaddock Shallot 91 & 165 165 turtle, clear 171 Raif ort . 163 163 Spanish fries ... 69 ravigote 148 & 162 . ...13 45 remoulade 163 163 Shortbread... ....165 salad 153 163 18 Spinach 166 163 roval 163 Shortrlbs, beef Shoulders (pigs) Shrimp 10 ....131 166 Spleen, pigs 131 Split pea soup 129 Spring chicken In batter, fried onions 52 devilled green peas., f 2 " fried, artich'k bot'n.s 62 " fried, hominy fritters 52 Spring duck, roast, applesauce 76 Spring lamb, brochetteof 22 Spring turkey, various ways 169 S-quabs. 165 H3 163 163 17 . .. 163 26 shallot 163 ::::. 35 163 omelet salad. 117 53 .... 163 163 sauce Shrub :::::i63 65 Ste Menehould 163 Sultana 163 Sicilian sauce 163 sauce crapaudlne 134 supreme 168 164 Skin (pigs) 131 165 Squash 165 Squirrel 165 164 22 Stanley (garnish) 89 tortu 164 Smoked sausage or knackwurst 141 165 Steak and oyster pie 123 Ste Menehould bauce 163 Sterlet 166 164 164 21 164 131 . . 164 Sno* balls iced 96 Verjuice... 16* 164 Soft shell crabs, boiled " " broiled 69 69 69 Strawberries 168 Strawberry jelly VI 164 Yorkshire 164 " fried 69 Sturgeon 166 Pance coated oysters, fried... . 122 27 " " steamed Soles 69 165 Succotash 166 Sausage Bavarian beef 137 16 & 138 Sole, bouchee of :::.: 165 Supreme of chicken 47 blood :38 fiance 163 of oysters 123 " French 138 138 Sonblse (garnish) 88 163 sauce ....163 Swedish salad If 8 Bologna " -Italian 138 139 Souffle 165 .... 44 10 Swiss canapes 36 16 Sour not roast Cambridge 139 139 95 Southern alu 1 163 braised a la Montglas 83 " sauce Bearnalse 34 11 with vegeta hies If6 cervelata poise chicken, ham and tongue, sauce Hollandais Coblentz 137 140 .166 apple 3 g brochette of 22 & 167 68 M broiled . .167 Danish beef and pork.... liver smoked 137 138 137 button onion, with peas 119 calf's head, Portuguese style. .. 29 with quenelles. ... 29 with brown butter 187 calf's, different styles 83 Frankfort 140 140 137 chantllly 42 46 en coqullle 3 goose liver, truffled bard smoked Danish 65 " glblet 54 f ififl knockpolse .... ....137 ' with noodles .... ... 66 croustadesof 165 186 S-T T-V V-W-Y Page Sweetbreads, curry of 166 outlets a la Nlvernaise 33 eplgramme of Iht *' " sauce bechamel. 34 frieanrteau of, with chicory 33 Iricasbew of . li> and mushrooms .... 34 Page Tongue, smoked, with sauerkraut... 15 Page Veal, forcemeat or godlveau 8} Tortu ( garnish ) 8V galantine of grenadins of, with spinach 172 Toulouse (garnish) 89 roast loin or neck of 172 Trl anon sauce 164 lemon 100 " stuffed 166 with kidneys 1(6 lamb, In cases . ... 99 larded, Toulouse garnish 166 " Toulouse ruguut 34 medallions of 166 orange 119 peach 128 scallops of, Italian sauce 173 Tripe, Creole style 188 various ways 168 Trout 168 baked stuffed 168 timbales of 172 Vegetables, fry in batter 8 Veloute sauce 164 Venison 173 patties of . 167 boiled, shrimp sauce 168 civet of 173 salad 35 & 153 pie 178 sal pi con of 167 saute a la flnanclere 33 scalloped 166 filleted, fried, with bacon 16 Trout steaks, baked 169 " sauce trlanon 168 Truffles 169 Venitienne sauce 164 Verjuice sauce 164 Vermicelli 173 Vermouth 65 & 173 scallops of with potato croquets 34 "with Toulouse ragout 34 scrambled, with eggs 162 soup 35 & 167 Tunny, ''Thon Marine" 169 Turnips 171 Verte pro sauce 164 Vinaigrette sauce 164 and truffles in shell 34 vol-an- rent of, and mushrooms 33 Tall, tigs 131 Turkey 169 blanqnetta of 170 Vol-au-veut 167 & 173 Tapioca itvj Tartare salad 163 boned 170 of chicken with quenelles.... 51 of sweetbreads and mushrooms 33 sauce 164 braised . 170 Tartarlo aold 167 Waffles .!' " 173 caviar 40 corn 66 Walnut 173 blackberry 18 cranberry 70 peach 128 Tart, apple 3 galan tine of 84 & 17li bashed, with egg 170 salad 154 Water ices, fancy (several kinds) . . . . 9 " cherry 43 livers, brocbette of 22 pat'.les and vol-au- vents 171 roast spring, oyster sauce !". " stuffed 169 Teal 167 Wax beans 9 Wienerpolse or Bavarian sauiage. . .137 Welnerwurst sausage 140 Tenderloin sausage 141 Terrapin. 167 baked 167 bisque of 17 West Indian jelly 97 Maryland style 167 stewed spring. Southern style. . 1' 9 wings, fricassee of 17 1 Vanilla 171 Tlmbales cabbage 27 Thon Marine 169 Whipped cream 70 Whlteflsh 173 Tomatoes 1 68 puree of 145 Veal, blanquetteof 172 boudln of 21 & 172 Woodcock 173 alad... .153 sauce 14 chops, broiled 173 Yarmouth bloaters, baked, In sauce. . 19 " sautes 19 Yorkshire buck, old fashioned 43 pudding 8 rarebit 43 sausages 142 cronstadeof 172 curry of 173 cutlets, garnished 171 Tomatoed Hamburger .... 94 Tongue, braised fresh, sauce Italian. 121 boiled smoked sauce piquante 121 Pigs 131 emlnceof 172 sauce 164 Popular Handbooks for Hotel, Restaurant, Transportation Catering, Institution and Club Use The Epicurean (Ranhofer) .................... $7.00 The king of cook books is "The Epicurean," by Charles Ranhofer, of Delmonico's. This book is 1,200 pages and weighs about ten pounds. It is the most extensive, the most complete, the most readable, the most attractive and the best all- around cook book that has ever been published. The first chapter is devoted to table service, with instruction in menu-making and the care and service of wines, the decoration of the table, the fixing of the sideboard, complete dining room instructions for the service of course dinners. French and Russian service is explained. There are lists of china, glass and silver, etc. ; a table of supplies in which the French and English names are given, and a market list. Then follows 144 pages of menus for breakfasts, luncheons, dinners, buffet or standing suppers, collations, hunting parties, garden parties, dancing parties, etc. All dishes in these menus are numbered to conform with recipes for them in the body of the book. There is a chapter on elementary methods, in which even the drudgery work in the kitchen is explained, and all the work done by apprentices in the early stages of hotel kitchen work. The chapter on kitchen utensils is very full, every utensil illustrated. Then come the recipes: 200 soups, 251 sauces, 133 garnishes, 191 sids dishes, 101 shell fish, 218 fish, 165 beef, 165 veal, 75 mutton, 109 lamb, 48 pork, 224 poultry, 163 game, 198 miscellaneous entrees, 67 salads, 172 vegetables, 100 eggs, 37 farinaceous foods, 233 sweet entrees, 170 cakes, 17 breads, 189 ices and iced drinks, 90 confectionery, and several illustra- tions of centerpieces. There is an exhaustive chapter on wines, several recipes for mixed drinks, and 64 pages devoted to a collection of Delmonico menus. The index occupies 44 double- column pages. There are more than 800 illustra- tions. A most excellent feature of The Epicurean is that every recipe in it appears under a good honest English name, alongside of which is the translation of it into French. It is beautifully bound in Keratol Levant grain, embossed in gold. The Palmer House Cook Book (Amiet) ......... $3.00 Here is the book you have been waiting for . . . the new Palmer House Cook Book . . . newly revised, new recipes . . . illustrated with 20 beautiful natural color and 20 black and white illustrations. The new Palmer House Cook Book contains all the menus and recipes that made the first edition a best seller, plus many new recipes and color il- lustrations. Recipes for world-famous dishes just as they are prepared by Chef Amiet in Chicago's Palmer House, and in other leading hotels, clubs, restaurants and in private homes. Yet, the in- structions are so clear and simple, even a begin- ner can produce the dishes with wonderful re- sults. The book is divided into two sections. The first section gives menus with recipes for seventy- six consecutive days. The second part is devoted to a choice of 339 recipes which may be substi- tuted" for any of those on the daily menus ; and instructions for preparing the sauces, garnishes and dressings called for on the menus. Outstand- ing feature of this book is its 40 beautiful color ing proper manner of service, and how the finished ng nd black and white illustrations showing the dish will look. The new Palmer House Cook 'Book is truly a masterpiece of culinary literature . . . a book which every manager, chef and steward ... in every hotel, club, and restaurant should own and use. 318 pages of recipes and menus, plus 40 pages of illustrations, 5%x8 inches, cloth bound. The Hotel St. Francis Cook Book (Hirtzler) ...... $3.00 The author was chef of Hotel St. Francis, San Francisco. Adapted for hotels, restaurants, clubs, coffee rooms, families and every place where high-class, wholesome cuisine is desired. This is the most important culinary book that has come from any press in the last twenty-five years. Mr. Hirtzler is known thruout Europe and America as one of the ablest chefs of the day. He made the cuisine of the Hotel St. Francis world-famous. A feature of the Hotel St. Francis Cook Book that will be appreciated by thousands of hotel people, caterers, families and all interested in home economics, is the selection and preparation of foods in season ; the presentation of breakfast, luncheon and dinner menus for every day in the year the selections appropriate, and all dishes actually prepared and served in the Hotel St. Francis. This feature of the book gives a sug- gestive quality, a reminder attribute, and a knowledge of food economies and food attributes that is hereby brought to the aid of the proficient and the learner, also enables even the inexperienc- ed to produce the well-balanced menu. The Hotel St. Francis Cook Book is indexed and cross in. dexed so that every recipe can be referred to on the instant. The Edge water Salad Book (Shircliffe) $5.00 Contains more than 600 tested recipes for salads and salad dressings. Mr. Shircliffe has not only given the recipes, but in many cases has supple- mented them with author's notes, calling atten- tion to special health-giving features, and sug- gesting diets for the different ailments that af- flict humans. He also takes opportunity to preach many a short sermon on the importance of right eating and what is best for health from the cradle to old age. He also intersperses much of human interest in the way of anecdote, legend and historic events. In this way it is more than a cook book it is readable to those who are not so much interested in how to make salads as in the enjoyment of them. The great charm of the book is the illustrations, which are from direct photographs in the natural colors, so that the dishes illustrated have the eye-appeal and the enticing qualities of the real dish. It is a book that fits into every kitchen home, hotel, club, hospital, restaurant, lunch room, cafeteria, steam- ship, dining car, industrial catering plant, insti- tution, army mess in fact, wherever information is desired as to the why and how to prepare for the table. The Edgewoter Salad Portfolio (Shircliffe) $2.00 A set of beautiful illustrations of salads taken from the Edgewater Beach Salad Book. They are mounted on heavy green cover stock, 8% x 11% inches, each showing one or two of the salads, and are suitable for framing. The portfolio may be used by the maitre d'hotel to assist him in sell- ing party menus. The illustrations are so natural and appetizing that they make strong appeal to patrons when selecting the salad course for special menus. Also these pictures serve as a guide to pantry girls, showing them how the finished salad should look. The Edgewater Sandwich Book (Shircliffe) $2.00 Supplemented with chapters on hors d'oeuvres, supremes, canapes and relishes. More than 600 recipes. This book is by the author of the Edge- water Salad Book, the most important culinary book produced in recent years. There are thirty illustrations of sandwiches and hors d'oeuvres. It will meet the requirements of all kinds of re- freshment places from the soda fountain to lunch room, tea room and high-class restaurant. Bound in convenient pocket size. A Selection of Dishes and the Chef's Reminder (Fellows) $1.00 The book that has met with the largest sale and is in most demand from managers, stewards and cooks. It is in vest pocket form, 220 pages. The most complete and serviceable pocket reference book to culinary matters that has ever been pub- lished. It is not a cook book, in the general sense of the word, but is full of ideas and suggestions regarding bill-of-fare dishes. Chapters are de- voted to entrees of all kinds, salads, soups, con- sommes, fish and their sauces, sauces in general, garnishes, fancy potatoes, miscellaneous recipes, hints to cooks and stewards, suggestion for break- fast, lunch and supper dishes, chafing dish cook- ery, menus, and a pronouncing glossary of culi- nary terms. Hundreds of the dishes listed are given with their bill-of-fare names only, as the cooks understand the basic work in preparing dishes, and the sauces and garnishes are treated separately, with information as to their com- ponent parts. Thousands of men who possess a copy of this book say it is their greatest help. Printed on bond paper, bound in flexible cover. The Hotel Butcher, Garde Manger and Carver (Frank Rivers) $2.00 The author has cultivated a new field in culinary literature, and produced a book both novel and useful. His experience as butcher, carver, chef and steward enabled him to compile facts regard- ing meats and meat economics, from the butcher shop to the dining-room table, that will be in- valuable to managers, stewards, chefs, and all persons employed in culinary work. His book digests the subjects of buying, handling, sale, and service of meats, poultry and fish for hotels, restaurants, clubs and institutions. It is varied with suggestions for the use of meats and trim- mings for particular dishes; the composition of these dishes set forth in concise form. The infor- mation is clarified by the use of about 300 illus- trations. The index is so comprehensive that any item may be referred to on the instant. 125 pages. Ideas for Refreshment Rooms $1.00 This book is composed mainly of expositions of catering systems, in particular, tea room, lunch room, department store, cafeteria, school, indus- trial plant, dining car, club and outside. A valu- able feature of it is the illustrating of different accounting systems and report forms ; also plans of lunch rooms, kitchens and pantries, showing consistent lay-out. There are more than a hun- dred beautiful half-tone illustrations picturing refreshment rooms of many kinds, their decora- tion, and furnishment. Complete sets of menus of famous catering establishments are presented ; also a large number of menus to fit the lunch room, cafeteria, industrial plant, or school. Thru- out the book there is a plea for the balanced ration and right eating, the advocacy of plain foods simply prepared and appetizingly served, the nutritive value given careful consideration. There is a chapter on service; a chapter on the brewing and serving of tea and coffee ; several pages devoted to pantry prepared foods ; illustra- tions of kitchens, of restaurant checks, and of many interesting things, as electric equipment ; questions of fuel economy, illumination, and a hundred and one clever ideas in the marketing of prepared foods in public eating houses. The book is thoroly indexed and cross indexed to assure quick finding. 385 pages, cloth bound. The Culinary Handbook (Fellows) $2.00 Presents in concise form information regarding the preparation and service of nearly 4,000 dif- ferent bill-of-fare dishes ; also gives much infor- mation of encyclopedic nature regarding foods of all kinds. Quick reference to every dish de- scribed is facilitated with an index of 39 columns arranged in alphabetical order, and cross indexed so that no matter what one is looking for, all he has to do is to find the initial letter and under it, in alphabetical order, for second, third and fourth letters, etc., the article wanted, with page on which it is found. Referring, for instance, to a sauce of any particular kind. Find the word Sauce in the index, and under it will be found in alpha- betical order 149 different sauces; and under Salads 71 different kinds, exclusive of the varia- tions in making. Under head of Sausage there are 45 different kinds described, with directions for making as well as cooking and serving. In fact, the sausage information in this book is more complete than in any other published. 190 pages ; 7 x 10 inches. The Menu Maker (Fellows) $2.00 This is the last of the successful ready reference books compiled by Chas. Fellows, author of "A Selection of Dishes and the Chef's Reminder" and "The Culinary Handbook." In this book Mr. Fellows has compiled in concise form thousands of suggestions for daily changes on the bills-of- fare, both American and European plan, for breakfast, luncheon and dinner cards, and so ar- ranged as to give popular changes from day to day to give acceptable variety. The book is sup- plemented with 110 pages of sample menus and bills-of-fare, several of them photographic repro- ductions, and representing the cards of hotels and restaurants of both first and second class, lunch rooms, transportation catering menus, club menus, wine list, caterer's list, and several illustrations of glass, china and silverware and banquet scenes. The book is indexed ; printed on fine quality paper; page 7x10 inches, cloth bound. Paul Richards' Pastry Book $2.00 This is the title in brief of "Paul Richards' Book of Breads, Cakes, Pastries, Ices and Sweetmeats, Especially Adapted for Hotel and Catering Pur- poses." The author is known as one of the most skillful all around bakers, pastry cooks and con- fectioners in America, and has demonstrated the quality of his work in leading hotels. In writing this book he took particular pains to have the recipes reliable and worded in such simple fashion that all who read them may readily understand and work from them. The book is in seven parts. Part I is devoted to fruit jellies and preserves ; jams, jellies, compotes and syrups ; preserved crushed fruits for sherbets and ices ; preserving pie fruits ; sugar boiling degrees ; colors. Part II, pastry and pie making, pastes and fillings ; pastry creams, patty cases, tarts and tartlets ; icings. Part III, cake baking; Part IV, puddings and sauces. Part V, ice creams, ices, punches, etc. Part VI, breads, rolls, buns, etc. Part VII, candy making and miscellaneous recipes; bread econo- mies in hotel ; caterers' price list. The recipes are readily found with the aid to 36 columns of index and cross index in the back of the book, this index forming in itself a complete directory, so to speak, of breads, pastry, ices and sugar foods. Printed on strong white paper ; pages 7x10 inches, 168 pages, bound in cloth. Pastry for the Restaurant (Richards) $1.00 A vest pocket book of 158 pages, is, as its title indicates, especially produced for the use of bak- ers employed in restaurants and European plan hotels. The style of work required for the Amer- ican plan hotel with table d'hote meal, and that for the European plan hotel restaurant, where each article is sold for a separate price, has brought about a demand for a book with recipes and methods especially adapted for the prepara- tion of bakery and pastry goods for individual sale. The first chapter is devoted to French pastries, which are now so generally sold, yet so little understood, because of the misnomer title ; then follows cakes and tarts of every kind ; pies, in great variety ; puddings, hot and cold ; ices, ice creams, and many specialties, all set forth with ingredients, quantities, and methods of mix- ing and preparing, and instructions for oven or temperature control. Mr. Richards' other books ha^e become standard the world over, and this one will be equally reliable. The index to this book makes a very complete reference to popular pastry goods and will be found valuable as a re- minder. The book is printed on bond paper. Candy for Dessert (Richards) $1.00 Ice Cream for Small Plants (Etta H. Handy). . . .$2.50 Whether you make your own ice cream or buy it on specification from a local manufacturer, you need this book. It has many practical suggestions for retailing and service ; also special chapters on the selection of manufacturing and storage equipment. There are 23 pages of pictures of specialty dishes. The book shows how high grade frozen foods can be made economically and ad- vantageously in small quantity, as in the hotel or restaurant. It is a practical handbook on the making of ice cream, and is written in non- technical language so that it can be easily under- stood by those not familiar with ice cream pro- duction. The formulas are written for use in a forty-quart freezer, but may be easily adapted to one-half or one-quarter that amount, or for even smaller quantity. The recipes are carefully standardized and have been successfully used to yield products of uniformly high quality that can be sold at a consistent profit. For those who buy ice cream from a local manufacturer, and want to control the quality, Ice Cream For Small Plants enables them to specify formulas for an almost unlimited variety of frozen desserts. 180 pages, 5 x 7% inches, durable cloth binding. The Vest Pocket Pastry Book (Meister) $1.00 This little book contains 500 recipes, includes 57 for hot puddings, pudding sauces, etc. ; 77 for cold puddings, side dishes, jellies, etc. ; 90 for ice creams, water ices, punches, etc. ; 68 for pastes, patties, pies, tarts, etc.; 77 for cakes; 17 for icings, colorings, sugars, etc. ; 60 for bread, rolls, yeast raised cakes, griddle cakes, etc., as well as 55 miscellaneous recipes. Mr. Meister wrote this book at the request of the editor of The Hotel Monthly, who had heard his work highly compli- mented by his employers, who said they believed him to have no superior as a first-class work- man. The recipes, while given in few words, yet are easily understandable and have helped thou- sands of bakers to improve their work. Book is indexed; printed on bond paper. The Vest Pocket Vegetable Book (Moore) $1.00 This book has done more to popularize the cook- ing and serving of vegetables in hotels and res- taurants than any other book ever published. It was written with this idea. The author took particular pains to make this little volume a classic and his masterpiece, and he succeeded re- markably well. Into 120 pages he has condensed more information regarding the history, cultiva- tion, nutritive qualities and approved forms of cooking and serving vegetables than can be found in any other book, no matter how large; and it has been demonstrated to be a book with- out mistakes. Recipes for soups, sauces, garnish- ings and salads supplement the general recipes. There are 78 ways of preparing potatoes, 19 of mushrooms, 19 of onions, 15 of cabbage, etc., 27 of beans, 15 of rice, 25 of tomatoes, and others in number in proportion to their importance. The vegetables are given with their English names and the French and German translations. The book is indexed and printed on bond paper. The Book of Sauces (Senn) $1.00 Mr. Senn is the author of the famous Twentieth Century Cookery Book, The Menu Book, Practical Gastronomy, and ten other culinary books that have become standard in Europe, and that have extensive sale in America. His Book of Sauces is the most complete work of the kind that has ever been produced. It treats the subject thoroly from every angle and covers all kinds of sauces for meat, poultry, fish and salad dishes ; also sweet sauces. This book is adapted not alone for the hotel and catering trades, but also for family use the world over. Epicures will find it invaluable for the suggestions and practical in- structions, together with the culinary lore there- in contained. Book is vest pocket size, printed on bond paper. The Fish and Oyster Book (Kientz) $1.00 The author was for many years chef of Rector's (the noted sea foods restaurant in Chicago), is a handy vest pocket volume, the leaf measuring 3x6% inches. In this book Mr. Kientz tells in concise manner how to cook practically every kind of fish that is brought to the American market; and not only explains the method of cooking, but also the making of the sauces and the manner of service. Every recipe is given with its bill-of-fare name in English and its translation into the French. The recipes include also such dishes as frogs' legs, all kinds of shell fish, snails, terrapin, and the fish force-meats. Also there is an appendix with specimen fish and oyster house luncheon and dinner menus, with and without wines. The book is indexed, printed on bond paper, bound in flexible cover. Economical Soups and Entrees (Vachon) .$1.00 This book was written in response to a demand for a book that would tell how to prepare savory dishes from inexpensive materials at small cost; and, in particular, how to use up leftovers ; by which is meant good cooked foods not served at a previous meal, and which have not in any way lost their marketable value in the sense of de- terioration of quality, but which can be served in hotel or restaurant in the same appetizing manner that leftovers are served in well-to-do families. Mr. Vachon was selected to write this book because of his reputation as an economical chef. In it he has given recipes in particular for meat entrees of the savory order, stews, pies and croquettes, hash, salads and fried meats. The soups include creams, broths, bouillons, chowders, purees, pepper-pots and the like. It is two books in one, separately indexed, printed on bond paper, leaf 3x7 inches, bound in flexible cover. Eggs in a Thousand Ways (Meyer) $1.00 This book gives more reliable information regard- ing eggs and their preparation for the table than can be found in any other book. Is indexed and cross indexed so that any method of cooking eggs and any of the garnishings can be referred to on the instant. The book starts with boiled eggs. Then (following the departmental index in al- phabetical order) are cold eggs, 79 ways; egg drinks, 22 kinds ; eggs in cases, 25 ways ; in cocottes, 24 ways; mollet, 79 ways; molded in timbales, 29 ways; fried, 33; fried poached, 38; hard eggs, 32 ; miscellaneous recipes, 27 ; omelets in 210 ways; poached, 227 ways; scrambled, 123; shirred, 95 ; stuffed, hard, 34 ; surprise omelets, 9; sweet eggs, 16; sweet omelets, 38. The recipes are in condensed form. The book is vest pocket size, 150 pages, printed on bond paper. Drinks (Jacques Straub) $1.00 This book is full of genuine pre-prohibition re- cipes for mixed Drinks. The author was wine ste- ward of the famous Blackstone Hotel Bar in Chicago. It is an authoritative treatise on how mixed drinks should be made. In addition to 700 practical recipes, it has a preface by "Oscar" of the Waldorf, and an opening chapter outlining the care and medicinal value of wines. We recommend "Drinks" as the book being used by the finest hotels and clubs, by connois- seurs of beverages, and as a book that is author- itative and exceedingly practical because it was written by one who knew how, and was first published in the days before prohibition, (1914). The Menu Translator (Duchamp & Jenning) .... $3.00 This book was formerly known as the "Uni- versal Dictionary of Menus" and served as a guide to thousands of menu-makers, stewards, and chefs. Today, it has been completely re- vised, greatly enlarged and lists about 12,000 translations in French, English and German. Items are carefully arranged under 25 head- ings, making it easy to find any item. Now in its seventh edition, and one of the newest and most complete works of its kind. 137 pages, 5x7% inches. Advertising of Hotels (Clarence Madden) $2.00 This is the first practical, comprehensive inquiry into hotel advertising ever made available. It is the only book which treats the problem of selling rooms and service in its entirety promotion, publicity, "in-the-house", "word-of-mouth", copy, appropriation, media selection, and agency con- tact. Mr. Madden is acquainted with both sides of the advertising picture. His book brings the two into sharp focus and shows their proper re- lationship. . . Anyone who is in any way affected by hotel advertising should be sure to have on hand a copy of "THE ADVERTISING OF HOTELS" for study, reference, and guidance. The Von Ormon System of Hotel Control $ .50 A book illustrating and describing the many forms used in the hotels of the Van Orman Chain of hotels. American Plan Check System (Lewis) $1.00 Hospitality (McGovern) $1.00 The American Waiter (Coins) $1.00 This is the only published book that treats in- telligently of the waiter's work from bus boy to head waiter, for both hotel and restaurant re- quirements. Interspersed are chapters on the care of table wares, salad making, table setting, carv- ing, dishing up, handling of sea foods, building of banquet tables, and many other useful items of information. The book is illustrated, vest pocket size, printed on bond paper. The Hotel Monthly Bookshop John Willy, Inc. 950 Merchandise Mart Chicago 54, Illinois 1 ^ IB fflf ffi 'IB 1ft > sAs^ - A 000 027 164 ' &# ^^*# *# --*f -^f *** "Y^ -**# -*j^* -^7 *^7 *