GRF" B/EDEKER'S GUIDE BOOKS m T-(T-»Trn a t-vt ^•j.i, i /? "»«• o/\ "m — J C( MajNUAI^ Ut UUIN Vl^.JtlSATlurN, 111 lour langiiag ^his book is DUE on the las* Tiar ,h lar] GREAT BRITAIN \ GREAT BRITAIN HANDBOOK FOH TEAVELLERS K. BAEDEKER WITH 16 MAPS, 30 PLANS, AND A PANORAMA FOURTH EDITION Revised and Augmented LEIPSIC : KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLISHER LO^'DOxN: DULAU AND CO., 37 SOUO SOL ARE, W. 1897 ^•1// rights reserved. 'Go, little book, God send thee good passage, And specially let this be thy prayere Unto them all that thee will read or hear, Where thou art wrong, after their help to call. Thee to correct in any part or all.' STACK ANNEX PREFACE. The Handbook to Great Britain, which now appears in a fourth edition, is intended to help the traveller in planning his tour and disposing of his time to the best advantage, and thus to enable him the more thoroughly to enjoy and appre- ^ elate the objects of interest he meets with. The writer is 3fr. N?. J. F. Muirheacl, M.A., who has for many years taken part in li^ the preparation of the English editions of Baedeker's Hand- books, and has personally visited the greater part of the dis- >^ tvicts described. >A No one is better aware than the Editor himself of the im- \. perfections almost inseparable from the early editions of a ^ guide-book. For the improvement of this work, however, he confidently and gratefully looks forward to a continuance of those valuable corrections and suggestions with which trav- ellers have long been in the habit of favouring him. Hotel- i^ bills, with annotations showing the traveller's opinion as to ^ his treatment and accommodation, are particularly useful. The fourth edition of the Handbook to Great Britain has «^ been carefully revised and brought down to date. The descrip- tion of London is, of course, only a brief abstract of the most ^^ important points, summarized from the Editor's separate Handbook to London; while the section devoted to Scot- land, though carefully brought down to date so far as it goes, is still so condensed as to form merely a stop-gap for the spe- cial Scottish volume which the Editor hopes to publish on some future occasion. In the preparation of the Handbook the Editor has re- ceived most material aid from numerous English friends. In particular he desires to express his acknowledgments to the Deans of the English and Welsh cathedrals ; to several re- sident members of the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge; to Professor Klrkjiatrick of Edinburgh; to the Rev. Robert Gwynne, B.A.; to the late Rev. W. S. Lach-Szyrma ifor data on Cornwall); to Professor Tout of Manchester; to Professor Campbell Brown of Liverpool; to the superior officials of most of the leading Railway Companies; and to 3fessrs. Baddeley and Ward, whose 'Thorough Guides' may be recommended vi PREFACfe. to those in search of more detailed information regarding any particular district. The Introductory Sketch of Architecture in England , from the pen of the late Professor Edivard A. Freeynan, also materially enhances the value of the Handbook. On the Maps and Plans the Editor has bestowed special care, and he believes that they will often render material ser- vice to the traveller, and enable him at a glance to ascertain his bearings and select the best routes. Hotels. The Editor has endeavoured to enumerate, not only the first-class hotels, but others also of more modest pretensions, which may be safely selected by the 'voyageur en gargon', with little sacrifice of comfort and great saving of expenditure. Those which the Editor has reason to believe good of their class are denoted by asterisks; but doubtless there are many of equal excellence among those that are un- starred. Although changes frequently take place, and prices generally have an upward tendency, the average charges stated in the Handbook will enable the traveller to form a fair estimate of his expenditure. To hotel-proprietors, tradesmen, and others the Editor begs to intimate that a character for fair dealing and courtesy towards travellers forms the sole passport to his commen- dation, and that advertisements of every kind are strictly excluded from his Handbooks. Hotel-keepers are also warned against persons representing themselves as agents for Bae- deker's Handbooks. Abbreviations. R. = Room; A. = Attendance; B. = Breakfast; D. = Din- ner; L. = Luncheon. — N. = North, Northern, etc.; S. = South, etc. ; E. = East, etc. ; W. = West, etc. — M. = Engl, mile ; ft. = Engl, foot ; min. = minute ; hr. = hour. — Z. = pound sterling; s. = shilling; d. = pence; g. = guinea (21 shillings). — L.N.W.R. = London & North Western Railway; G.W.R. = Great Western Railway ; N.B.R. = North British Railway, and so on. ■ — E.E. = Early English (architecture); Dec. = Decorated; Perp. = Perpendicular. The letter d with a date, after the name of a person, indicates the year of his death. The number of feet given after the name of a place shows its height above the sea-level. The number of miles placed before the principal places on railway-routes indicates their distance from the starting-point of the route. Asterisks are used as marks of commendation. CONTENTS. Page I. Money. Travelling Expenses. Passports. Custom House. Time xvii II. Routes to and from England xvili III. Railways, Coaches, and Steamboats xx IV. Plan of Tour. Excursions on Foot xxii V. Hotels xxii VI. Sports and Pastimes xxiv VII. Outline of English History xxvi VIII. Wales and the Welsh Language xxx IX. Bibliography xxxi Historical Sketch of Architecture in England, by Edward A. Freeman xxxiii Ancient Monuments, by General Pitt Rivers .... Ixii Route Page 1. London 1 2. From London to Dover 12 a. South Eastern Railway via Tunbridge and Folkestone 12 Knole. Chevening, 13. — From Tunbridge to Eedhill .Junction. Penshurst Place, 13. — From Paddock Wood to Hawkhurst, 14. — From Ashford to Canterbury. Hythe, 14. b. London, Chatham, and Dover Railway via Canter- bury 17 Hayes Place. Cesar's Camp. Holwood, 17. — Gad's Hill, Cobliam Hall, 21. — From Faversham to Margate and Ramsgate. Reculver, 23. — Goodwin Sands. From Ramsgate to Richborough, Sandwich, and Deal, 24. — From Canterbury to Ramsgate^ to Shorncliffe, 32. ■ 3. From London to Maidstone 33 West or Town Mailing. Boxley Abbey. Leeds Castle, 35. 4. From London to Hastings 35 Excursions from Tunbridge Wells, 36. — From Tun- bridge Wells to Ea'^tbourne. Bodiam Castle. Battle Abbey, 37. — Normanhurst, 38. — From Hastings to Rye and Ashford, -41. 5. From London to Eastbourne. Newhaven 42 From I- ewes to Newhaven, 42. G. From London to Brighton 43 From Croydon to Sanderstead. Addingtou, and Wick- ham, 44. — From East Croydon to Lewes. From Merst- ham to Chipstead and to Reigate. From Reigate to Guildford, 45. — Worth. Hustpierpoint Park, 47. — Excursions from Brighton, The Devil's Dyke. From' Brighton to Hastings, 51. viii CONTENTS. Route Page 7. From Brigliton to Cliirliester and Portsmoutli 52 From Shoreham to Horsliam, 52. — Goodwood. Box- grove, 55. — Porchester. From Portsmouth to South- ampton, 59. 8. From London to Dorking (Guildford) and Ford .... 59 Environs of Dorking, From Dorking to Guildford on foot, 60. — From Pulborough to Midhurst and Chichester, 61. 9. From London to Portsmoutli C2 Environs of Guildford, 64. — From Haslemere to the Hindhead. From the Hindhead to Farnham, 65. — Selborne, 65. 10. Isle of Wight 66 From Ryde to Quarr Abbey and Fishbourne, 67. — From Ryde to Newport; to Ventnor. Bembridge, 68. — From Venlnor to Freshwater Bay and Alum Bay, 70. — From Newport to Yarmouth and Freshwater. From Yarmouth to Southampton, 72. — From Newport to Cowes, 73. 11. From London to Winchester and Southampton. New Forest 74 Aldershot. Farnham, 75. — Hursley. Utterbourne, 79. — F»-om Bishopstoke to Stokes Bay, 79. — Netley Abbey. From Southampton to Salisbury \' to Andover .Junction, 82 — Beaulieu Abbey, b3. 12. The Channel Islands 84 Guernsey, 86 — Alderney. Sark, 89. — Jersey, 90. 13. From Southampton to Bournemouth, Dorchester, and Weymouth 94 Lymington, 96. — (Jorfe Castle, 96. — Swanage. Pur- beck Island. Portland Island, 97. 14. From London to Salishury and Exeter 98 Old Sarum. Stonehenge, 100. —Wilton. Longford Castle. Fonthill Abbey. Shaftesbury, lOi. — Lyme Regis. Char- mouth, 102. — Excursions from Exeter. From Exeter to Exmouth ; to Barnstaple, 105. 15. From London to Bath and Bristol 106 From Reading to Basingstoke, Silchester. Strathfields- aye, 106. — From Reading to Bath via Devizes and Bradford-on-Avon, 107. — The Ridge way. The Blowing Stone. White Horse Hill, 107, 108. — From Swindon to Marlborough and Andover Junction. Avebury Circle. Silburv Hill. From Swindon to Cirencester and Chelten- ham, iOi. — Bowood, 109. — From Bath to Wells; to Gloucester; to Templecombe; to Salisbury, 113. — From Bristol to Portishead ; to Avonmouth; to Severn Tunnel Junction: to Frome, 121. 16. From Bristol to Exeter. Wells 122 Clevedon. From Yatton to Wells, 122. — Glastonbury, 125. — Sedgemoor. Nether Stovvey. (juantock Hills, 127. — From Taunton to Minehead ; to Barnstaple, lli:8. 17. From Exeter to Plymouth 129 a. Great Western Eailway 129 From Newton Abbot to Bloreton Hampstead; to Torquay and Dartmouth, 130. — Kenfs Cavern. Anstey's Cuve. Babbacombe. Compton Castle. Bri.vham, 132. — From CONTENTS. 1 ^ Route Page Dartmoutb up tlie Dart to Totnes. Salcoinbe, 133. — Berry Pomerov Castle. From Tutnea to Ashburton. Kings- bridge, 134. b. South Western Railway 135 From Lidford to Launceston; to Plymouth by Great Western Piailwav, 135. — From Yelverton to Princetown, 135. — DartmooV Forest, 136. — Cbagford, 137. — Ex- cursions from Plymouth, 141-143. 18. From Plymouth to Truro and Penzance. Falmouth. . . 143 Looe. Polperro. St. Neofs. Dozmare Pool, 143, 141. — From Par to Fowey, 144. — From Truro to Falmouth. Pendennis Ca-tle. From Falmouth to Helston, 145. — The Lizard, 146. — St. Ives. St. Michael's Mount, 148. — From Penzance to Laniorna and the Logan Rock, 149. — From Penzance to St. Buryan and the Logan Rock. The Land's End, l-oO. — From Penzance to St. Just; to St. Ives. 151. — The Scilly Isles, 152. 19. From Exeter to AVadebridge and Newquay 152 a. Great Western Railway 15'2 From Bodmin Road to Wadebridge, 1.52. b. South Western Railway 153 From Halwill Junction to Bude. Ilolsworthy, 153. — From Wadebridge to Padstow, 15 i. 20. From Camelford to Bideford 155 From Tintagel to Eosca^tle by the Cliffs, 156. — Mor- wenstow, 157. — Hartland. Lundy, 159. — Westward Ho. Appledore. Torrington, 160. 21. From Bideford to Barnstaple and Ilfracombe 160 From Ilfracombe to Lee and Morthoe, 162. 22. From Ilfracombe to Lynton (Lynmouth) and Minehead . 163 a. By Road 163 Exmoor Forest, 164. — Dunkery Beacon, 165. b. By the Coast 165 Duty Point, 166. — From Lynmouth to Watersmeet, Rockford, and the Doone Valley, 167. — Simonsbath, 168. 23. From London to Gloucester and Hereford. Valley of the Wye 170 From Kemble to Cirencester and to Tetbury, 170. — KyminHill. Raglan Castle. Usk,176. — Caldicot Castle. Forest of Dean, 177. —From Hereford to Shrewsbury, 18'. 24. From Bristol to Gloucester, Cheltenham, Worcester, Birmingham, and Derby 181 Thornbury, 181. — Berkeley, 182. — Environs of Chelten- ham. Tewkesbury, 183. — Deerhurst, 184. — From Worcester to Shrewsbury, 187. — From Worcester to Oxford. 188. — Tutbury^ 190. 25. From Worcester to Hereford and Newport 190 Worcester Beacon. Eastnor Park, 191. — From Ledbury to Gloucester. Sugarloaf. Blorenge, 192. — Crickliowell, 193. 26. From Gloucester to Cardiff. Swansea, and Milford ... 193 Penarth. From Cardiff to Caerphilly and Rhvninev Bridge. From Cardiir to Merthyr Tydvil, 195. — Llantwi't Major. ^ CONTENTS. P.oute Page St. Donafs Castle, 197. — From Keatli to Merthyr Tydvil. Vale of Neath, 19S. — From Swansea to the Mumbles, 199. — The Gower Peninsula, 200. — From Whitland to Cardigan. Fish;j,uard. Picton Castle, 203. 27. From Hereford to Brecon and Swansea 204 From Three Cocks Junction to Moat Lane, 20i. — Pen-y- Crug. Frwdgrech Waterfalls. Brecon Beacons. From Devynock to Llandovery, 206. 28. From Craven Arms to Llandrindod, Llandovery, and Carmarthen 207 Vale of Towy. Carmarthen \ an, 2U8. — Uynevor Castle. From Llandilo to Llanelly and Swansea. From Car- marthen to Aberystwith, 209. 29. From WMtland to Tenby and Pembroke 210 Llawhaden Castle. 210. — From Tenby to Penally; to Sanndersfoot, 211. — Carew Castle. Cliff Walk from Tenbv toLvdstep Caverns and Manorbier. 212. — Stackpole Court. St.' Govan^s Head. The Stack Rocks, 213, 214. 30. From Haverfordwest to St. David's 214 31. From London to Oxford 217 a. Great Western Hallway via Didcot 217 From Radley to Abingdon, 217. b. Great Western Railway via Maidenhead and High Wycombe 218 Hughenden Manor, 218. c. London and North Western Railway 218 From Verney Junction to Banbury, 218. 32. From Oxford to London by the Thames 219 33. Oxford 224 Excursions from Oxford. Woodstock. Blenheim. Stanton Harcourt, Cumnor Hall, 2il. — Godstow Nunnery, 242. 34. From Oxford to Leamington, Warwick, and Birmingham. Kenilworth 242 Edgehill. Sulgrave, 243. — From Leamington to Coventry, 243, — From Warwick to Kenilworth by road, 245. — Stoneleigh Abbey, 246. st^ 35. From Warwick to Stratford-on-Avon 247 a. By Railway 247 b. By Road 247 36. From London to Verney Junction via Harrow andAylesbury 251 Chess Valley. Chenies. Chesham, 252. — Brill, 253. 37. From London to Birmingham via Rugby and Coventry . 253 Dravton Beauchamp. Mentmore. From Leighton to Dunstable and Luton. Woburn Abbey, 254. — From Northampton to Market Harborough; to Peterborough, 256. — From Rugby to Leamington, to Market Har- borough, and to Leicester, 256. — Whitley Abbey. Combe Abbey. From Coventry to Nuneaton, 258. — From Birmingham to Lichfield-, to Walsall, 263. 38. From Birmingham to Shrewsbury via Wolverhampton and Wellington 263 v/y wv CONTENTS. ^^ Route Page From Swan Village to Dudley. From Dudley to Stour- bridge and Kidderminster, 263. — Boscobel. From Wol- verhampton to Stafford, 265. — From Wellington to Market Drayton, 265. — Environs of Shrewsbury. Wroxeter, 267. 39. From Shrewsbury to Aberystwith. Central Wales . . . 267 Powys Castle, 267. — Breidden Hills. From Welshpool to Oswestry and Gobowen. Offa's Dyke, 268. — From Machynlleth to Corris. Plinlimmon. From Machynlleth to Llanfihangel by road. From Glandovey Junction to Barmouth, 269. — From Glandovey to Machynlleth by the Llyfnant Glen and Pistyll-y-Llyn, 270. — Environs of Aberystwith. Devil's Bridge, 271. 40. From Slire'W'sl}ury to Chester 271 a. Via Whitchurch 271 b. Via Ruahon 272 From Wrexham to Ellesmere; to Birkenhead and Liver- pool, 273. — Excursions from Chester. Eaton Hall, 28<3. — Hawarden. Beeston Castle. From Chester to Mold and Denbigh, 281. — From Chester to Manchester via War- rington or via Northwich, 281. 41. North Wales 282 a. From Chester to Bangor and Carnarvon. Llandudno. Anglesey 283 Dvserth Castle. Bodelwvddan. From Ehvl to Corwen, 284. — Fairy Glen. Dwygyfylchi, 239. — Aber Glen, 290. — Penrhvn Castle and Quarries. Bethesda. Carnedd Dafydd. Carnedd Llewelyn, 291, 292. - Menai Bridges. Isle of Anglesey, 293. b. From Carnarvon to Afon Wen, Port Madoc, and Barmouth 296 From Nantlle to Snowdon Station and Quellyn Lake. Clynnog. From Afon Wen to Pwllheli. Lleyn Promon- tory, 297. — Cwm Bychan. Rynogs. Bwlch Drws Ar- dudwy, 298. — Panorama Walk. Llanaber and Cors-y- GedoL Road from Barmouth to Dolgelley, 300. c. From Barmouth to Dolgelley, Bala, Llangollen, and Chester 301 Ascent of Cader Idris from Arthog, 301. — Excursions from Dolgelley. Torrent Walk. Precipice Walk. Tvn- v-Groes, Rhaiadr-Du, and Pistyll-y-Cain , 302-30i. — Ascents of Cader Idris from Dolgelley, 30 i 305. — The Arans, 306. — Lake Vyruwy. From Bala to Ffestiniog, 307. — Excursions from Llangollen. Dinas Bran Castle. Moel-y-Geraint. Plas Newydd, 309. — Valle Crucis Abbey. Eliseg's Pillar. Moel-y-Gamelin. Eglwyseg Rocks, 310. — Chirk Castle. Wynnstay, 311. d. From Llandudno to Bett\vs-y-Coed and Ffestiniog . 311 Environs of Bettws-y- Coed. Capel Garmon. Swallow Falls. Moel Siabod. Fairy Glen, etc., 313, 814. — From Bettws-y-Coed to Bangor. Nant Ffrancon, 314. — Ex- cursions from Ffestiniog. Cvnfael Falls. Tomen-y-Mur. Rhaiadr-Du. Raven Fall, 3i6. — From Blaenau Ffest- iniog to Port Madoc by the Narrow Gauge Railway, 318. e. From CarnarvoTi to Llanberis and Bett\v5-y-Coed . . 318 X" CONTENTS. Route Page Ascent of Snowdon by the Mountain Tramroad. From Llanberis to the Snowdon Ranger, 319. — From Llan- beris to Bethesda, 320. f. From Carnarvon to the Snowdon Ranger, Rhyd-Ddu, and Beddgelert 321 From Beddgelert to Port Madoc; to Ffestiniog, 323. — Ascent of Moel Hebog, 324. g. Snowdon 324 Ascent from Llanberis, 325. — Ascent fiom Capel Curi^. Ascent from Beddgelert and Snowdon Station, 326. — Ascent from Beddgelert via Nant Gwynant. Ascent from the Snowdon Ranger, 327. 42. From Chester to Birkenhead and Liverpool 328 From Liverpool to Birkenhead, Xew Brighton, Hoylake, and West Kirby. Knowsley. Childwall Hall. Croxteth Hall. Speke Hall. From Liverpool to Preston and to Southport, 336. 43. From Liverpool to Manchester 337 a. Via Newton-le-Willows 337 b. Via Warrington and Glazebrook 337 c. Via Atherton 338 The Manchester Ship Canal. From Blanchester to Bolton and Blackburn. Whalley. Stonyhurst. Valley of the Ribble, 314. — From Manchester to Bury and" Bacup ; to Oldham; to Rochdale and Halifax; to Hudderstield and Leeds ; to London via Crewe ; to London via Derbv, 344-346. 44. The Isle of Man 34G 45. From Liverpool to London 351 a. Via Crewe and Rugby 351 From Crewe to Chester; to Uttoxeter, 351. — From Ut- toxeter to Macclesfield. From Crewe to Whitchurch, 352. — From Staflord to Shrewsbury; to Uttoxeter; to Wolverhampton, 353. — From Lichlield to Walsall; to Derby, 356. b. Via Matlock and Derby 35G Bradgate Park. Bardon Hill. From Leicester to Meltnn Mowbray; to Burton, 360. — From Kettering to Hun- tingdon and Cambridge: to Oakham and Nottingham, 3(3L — Elstow. From Bedford to Northampton ; to Cam- bridge; to Hitchin; to Bletchley, 363. c. Via Sheffield, Grantham, and Peterborough .... 365 From Sheffield to Buxton, 367. — The Dukeries. Sher- wood Forest, 36S. — Stamford, 369. — Crowland Abbey. From Peterborough to Sutton Bridge, 370. — St. Ives. Hatfield House. Hertford, 371. d. Via Shrewsbury, Birmingham, and Oxford .... 371 46. The Derbyshire Peak 371 47. From Liverpool or Manchester to Carlisle 380 From Preston to Blackpool and Fleetwood. Morecambe. Kendal, 331. — Eden Hall. From Penrith to Keswick. Cockermouth. and Workington, 332. — Great Roman Wall, 3SB. — From Carlisle to Maryport; to Silloth. 384. CONTENTS. ^iii Route Page 48. From Cainforth to Ulverston, Windermere (Lake Side), Furness Abbey, and Whitehaven 384 From Ulverston to Lake Side, 384. 49. The Lake District 385 a. Windermere Section 386 From Bowness to Coniaton, 388. — Coniston Old 3Ian. . Uuddon Valley, 389. — From Coniston to Dungeon Gill. From Windeiinere to Ambleside, Grasmere, and Keswick, 390. — From Ambleside to Coniston, 392, — The Lang- dales, 393. — Helvellyn. From Grasmere to Ullswater ; to Borrowdale. From Windermere to nisvvater, 395. b. Ullswater Section 396 From Patterdale to Hawes Water. Mountain Ascents from Patterdale, 398. c. Keswick and Derwentwater Section 399 Circuit of Pervventwater, 400. — From Keswick to Buttermere. 401. — From Keswick to Thirlmere bv the Vale of St. John; to Dungeon Gill by the Stake JPass; to Patterdale, 403, 404. — From Keswick to Wasdale Head, 404, 405. — Mountain Ascents from Keswick (Skid- daw, etc.), 406. d. Wast Water and Soafell Section 407 Ascent of Scafell Pike, 4aS. 50. From London to Sheffield, Leeds, and Carlisle .... 408 Hardwick Hall. Bolsover Castle, 409. — Kirkstall Abbey. From Leeds to Ilkley , Otley , Bolton Abbey, and Skipton, 410. — From Leeds to Bradford and Halifax ; to Selby; to York. Haworth, 411. — Ingleton, 412. 51. From London to York, Durham, Newcastle, and Berwick 412 From York to Harrogate. From Pilmoor to Malton. to Pickering, and to Knaresborough. Eievaulx Abbey, 416. — From Northallerton to Stockton and Hartlepool ; to Leyburn and Hawes. Wensleydale, 417. — From Dar- lington to Barnard Castle and Tebay. High Force, 418. — Finchale Priory. Brancepeth Castle. From Durham to Sunderland; to Bishop Auckland, 420, 421. — Jesmond Dene. Tynemouth and the Tyne. Alnwick Castle. Aln- mouth, Bamborough, 421. — Chillingham. Lindisfarne, 425. 5'2. From Carlisle to Newcastle 425 Naworth Castle. Lanercost Priory, 425. — The Roman Wall, 426. 00. From York to Scarborough and Whitby 4*26 Oliver's Mt. Filey. Bridlington Quay. Flambi>rou£:h Head, 428. — From Whitby to Saltburn and Redcar, 429. 54. From Leeds to Harrogate, Kipon, and Thirsk 429 From Ripon to Fountains Abbey, 431. 55. From York to Beverley and Hull 432 Hornsea. From Hull to l^arnsley, 433. 56. From Hull to Lincoln and Nottingham 433 Great Grimsby. Cleethorpes, 434. — From Lincoln to Boston: to Gainsborouuh. Southwell, 437. — Newstead Abbey. Wollaton Hall^ 439. xiv CONTENTS. Koute Page 57. From London to Cambridge 439 Edmonton. Enfield. Saffron Walden, 439. — Grant- chester. Madingley. Cherry Hinton, 448. 58. From Camtridge to Ely and Hunstanton 448 From Ely to Thetford and Norwich, 449. — From Hun- stanton to Wells, 450. 59. From London to Colchester, Ipswich, and Norwich . . 450 Little Maplestead. Sudbury, 451. — Clacton-on-Sea. Walton-on-the-Naze. 452. — Felixstowe, 453. — Caistor St. Edmund. Heigham. From Norwich to Yarmouth; to Cromer; to Fakenham and Lynn, 455. 60. From London to Lowestoft and Yarmouth 456 Lowestoft. Oulton Broad, 456. — The Norfolk Broads, 457. — From Yarmouth to North Walsham, 468. 61. From Cambridge to Newmarket and Bury St. Edmunds . 458 62. From London to Tilbury and Southend 459 Scotland. I. Travelling Expenses. Hotels 460 IL Railways, Coaches, and Steamers 460 III. Plan of Tour 461 IV. Outline of Scottish History 462 V. Notes on the Gaelic Language . 464 63. From London to Edinburgh or Glasgow 464 a. Yia Leicester, Leeds, and Carlisle 464 From St. Boswells to Kelso and Berwick. Jedburgh, 465. — Abbotsford, 466. — Dryburgh. From Galashiels to Selkirk. St. Mary's Loch. From Galashiels to Peebles, 467. b. Via York, Newcastle, and Berwick 468 Coldingham. St. Abb's Head. Fast Castle, 468. — Ex- cursions from North Berwick. Bass Rock. Tantallon Castle, 469. - Musselburgh, 470. c. Via Crewe and Carlisle 470 Birrenswark. Environs of Moffat, 470. d. By Sea 471 64. From Carlisle to Dumfries and Stranraer 471 Lincluden Abbey. Caerlaverock Castle. Sweetheart Abbey. Criffel. From Dumfries to Glasgow, 472. — Kirkcud- bright. From Newton Stewart to Whithorn, 473. 65. Edinburgh 474 Excursions from Edinburgh. Craigmillar Castle. Cor- storphine. Blackford Hill. Pentland Hills. Eoslin. Haw- thornden. Dalkeith. Queensferry, 484, 485. 66. From Edinburgh to Glasgow 485 a. North British Railway 485 b. Caledonian Railway 486 Excursions from Glasgow. Hamilton. Bothwell. Falls of Clyde. Paisley. Ayr. Arrochar. Gareloch. Loch- goilhead. Rothesay. Ardrisliaig. Arran. Campbeltown. Inveraray. Loch Awe. Belfast, etc., 490 - 492. CONTENTS. XV Eoute Page V^GT. From Glasgow to Edinburgh via Loch Lomond , Loch Katrine, and Stirling 493 Ascent of Ben Lomond. Ardlui, 493. — Falls of Bracklin. Ben Led], 494. — Bannockburn. Cambuskenneth. Abbey Craig. From Stirling to Kinross ^ to Aberfoyle, 495, 496. — From Glasgow to the Trossachs via Aberfoyle, 498. 68. From Glasgow to Oban. Western Scotland 496 Lochgilpbead, From Ardrisbaig to Oban via Loch Awe. 498. — Excursions from (Jban. DunstatTnage. StafTa and lona. Taynuilt and Loch Awe. Loch Awe and Melfiirt. Circular Tour by Glen Etive, Loch Etive, and Glencoe to Ballachulish, and back by Loch Linnhe. The Isle of Skye, etc., 499-501. — From Oban to Glasgow bv rail- way, 502. 69. From Oban to Inverness by the Caledonian Canal . . . 502 Glencoe, 5u2. — Ascent of Ben Is^evis, 503. — Excursions from Inverness. Craig Phadrig. Culloden. Loch Maree and Gairloch. Stornoway, etc. From Inverness to Aber- deen, 505. — Peterhead, 5C6. 70. From Glasgow to Fort William (Inverness) 506 71. From Edinburgh to Aberdeen 507 a. North British Railway, via the Forth Bridge and Fifeshire^ 507 St. Andrews, 508. b. Caledonian Railway via Perth and Forfar 510 Crieff. Comrie, 510. — Kinnoul Hill. Scone Palace. From Perth to Dundee. From Forfar to Kirriemuir and Edzell, 511. c. Via Perth, Blair Atholl, and Braemar 512 Ben Muich-Dhui, Cairngorm. Lochnagar. From Braemar to Blairgowrie through Glenshee, 513. 72. From Edinburgh to Inverness 516 From Dunkeld to Aberfeldy. From Aberfeldy to Loch Tay and Callander. Ben Lawers. From Pitlochry to Rannoch, 617. — From Boat of Garten to Egin and to Keith, 518. 73. From Inverness to Thurso and Wick 519 Falls of Kilmorack. Struy. Glen Afl'ric. Falls of the Glomach. Fortrose. Cromarty. From Dingwall to Strathpeffer and to Strome Ferry, 519. — Dornoch. From Lairg to Loch Inver; toScourie; to Tongue, 520. — Thurso. John o' Groat's House, 521. 74. From Gairloch to Ullapool, Loch Inver, Durness, and Thurso 522 75. The Orkney and Shetland Islands 524 1. The Orkney Islands 624 2. The Shetland Islands 526 Index 527 MAPS AND PLANS. Maps. 1. Kailway Map of England and Wales: before the title- page. 2. The Envieons of London: RR. 1, 2, 3, 6, 9, 15, 36, 37, 45, 57, 59, 62; p. 12. 3. The Enyibons of Doeking and Guildfobd : RR. 8, 9; p. 64. 4. The Isle of Wight: R. 10; p. 65. 5. The Channel Islands: R. 12; p. 84. 6. The North Coast of Dbyon: RR. 20, 21, 22; p. 163. 7. The Valley of the Wye : R. 23 ; p. 175. 8. The Environs of Stkatfobd-on-Avon : RR. 34, 35; p. 247. 9. The Valley of the Conway : R. 41 ; p. 312. 10. Snowdonia : R. 41 ; p. 324. 11. The Debbyshibe Peak: RR. 46, 45b; p. 372. 12. The Lake Distbict : R. 49 ; p. 385. 13. Railway Map of Scotland : p. 460. 14. The Environs of Edinburgh : R. 65 , p. 484. 15. Loch Lomond and the Trossachs : R. 67; p. 492. 16. Key Map of Great Britain, after the Index. Plans. 1. Railway Plan of London (p. 1); 2. Canterbury Cathe- dral (p. 27) ; 3. Brighton (p. 48) ; 4. Chichester Cathedral (p. 54); 5. Portsmouth (p. 55); 6. Winchester Cathedral (p. 76); 7. Salisbury Cathedral (p. 99); 8. Bath fp. 114); 9. Bristol (p. 115); 10. Wells Cathedral (p. 115); 11. Torquay (p. 138); 12. Plymouth (p. 139); 13. Gloucester Cathedral (p. 174); 14. Worcester (p. 184); 15. Worcester Cathedral (p. 185); 16. Oxford (p. 225); 17. Kenilworth Castle (p. 246); 18. Birmingham (p. 258); 19. Chester (p. 274); 20. Chester Cathedral (p. 275); 21. Liverpool (p. 328); 22. Manchester (p. 338); 23. Lichfield Cathedral (p. 354); 24. York Minster (p. 416); 25. Durham Cathedral (p. 417); 26. Lincoln Ca- thedral (p. 435); 27. Cambridge (p. 440); 28. Ely Cathedral (^p. 441); 29. Edinburgh (p. 474): 30. Glasgow (p. 486). Panorama from Snowdon, p. 325. INTRODUCTION. I. Money. Expenses. Passports. Custom House. Time. Money. In Great Britain alone among the more important states of Europe the currency is arranged without much reference to the decimal system. The English Gold coins are the sovereign or pound (I. = libra, livre) equal to 20 shillings, and the half-sover- eign. The Silver coins are the crown (5 shillings), the half-crown, the double florin (4 shillings ; seldom seen), the florin (2 shillings), the shilling (s. = solidus), and the sixpenny and threepenny pieces. The Bronze coinage consists of the penny (d., Lat. denarius), of which 12 make a shilling, the halfpenny, and the farthing (1/4^.). The Guinea, a sum of 215., though still used in popular reckon- ing, is no longer in circulation as a coin. A sovereign is approxi- mately equal to 5 American dollars, 25 francs, 20 German marks, or 10 Austrian florins fgold). The Bank of England issues notes for 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 pounds, and upwards. These are useful in paying large sums ; but for ordinary use, as change is not always readily procured, gold is preferable. The number of each note should be taken down in a pocket-book, as there is, in this case, a bare possibility that it may be traced and recovered, if lost or stolen. The notes of certain provincial banks circulate locally, and in Scot- land the place of the sovereign is very generally taken by the one- pound notes of several privileged banks, which circulate freely throughout the country. Foreign Money does not circulate in Eng- land, and it should always be exchanged on arrival, A convenient and safe mode of carrying money from America or the Continent is in the shape of letters of credit, or circular notes, which are readily procurable at the principal banks. A larger sum than will suffice for the day's expenses should never be carried on the person, and gold and silver coins of a similar size (e.g. sovereigns and shillings) should not be kept in the same pocket. Expenses. The cost of a visit to Great Britain depends of course on the habits and tastes of the traveller. If he frequents first-class hotels, travels first-class on the railways, and systematically prefers driving to walking, he must be prepared to spend 30-405. a day or upwards. Persons of moderate requirements, however, will have little difficulty, with the aid of the information in the Handbook, in travelling comfortably with a daily expenditure of 20-255.. while the pedestrian of moderate requirements may reduce his expenses to 10-155. per diem, or even less in some of the remoter districts. Baedeker's Great Britaini 4th Edit. b xviii PASSAGE. Passports are not necessary in England, though occasionally useful in procuring delivery of registered and poste restante letters. Custom House. Almost the only articles likely to be in the possession of ordinary travellers on which duty is charged are spirits and tobacco, but a flask of the former and V2^b. of the latter are allowed for private use. Three pounds of tobacco may be passed on payment of a duty of 5s. per pound, with the addition (in the case of cigars) of a slight fine for the contravention of the law for- bidding the importation of cigars in chests of fewer than 10,000. Foreign reprints of copyright English books are liable to confis- cation. The custom-house examination is generally lenient. — Dogs are not at present allowed to land in Great Britain without a licence previously obtained from the Board of Agriculture (4 White- hall Place. London, S.W.). Time. Uniformity of time throughout GreatBritain is maintained by telegraphic communication with Greenwich Observatory. In Ire- land, Dublin time is observed. II. Boutes to and from England. The following is a list of the principal routes from Great Britain to America and to the Continent, which may prove serviceable to travellers in either direction. The times and fares are liable to alteration. On the Atlantic steamers fares are reduced during the winter-season, and children under 12 are generally charged half-fare. Koutes to England from the United States of America and from Canada. Cunard Line. A steamer of this company starts every Sat. and every second Tues. from New York and every Sat. from Boston for Queens- town and Liverpool. Saloon-fare 60-175 dollars, according to accommoda- tion and season. Steamers from Liverpool for New York every Sat. and every second Tues., for Boston every Thursdav. Saloon - fare 12-35^. — London Offices: 93 Bishopsgate St., E.C., and 13 Pall 3Iall, S.W. White Star Line. Steamer every Wed. from New York to Queenstown and Liverpool. Saloon 60-175 dollars. From Liverpool to New York every Wednesday. Saloon 12-35/., return 24-70?. 5 second cabin 81. iOs. — London Office: 34 Leadenhall St., E.G. American Line. Every Wed. from New York to Southampton; saloon from 75-100 dollars. From Southampton to New York every Sat. at noon; fare from 15-20/. Also, from Philadelphia to Liverpool every Sat., and from Liverpool to Philadelphia every Wednesday. Second cabin from 11. 5«., return-ticket from 14?. London Offices: 116 Leadenhall St., E.G., and 3 Cockspur St., S.W. North German Lloyd Line. From New York to Southampton every Tues. and every Thurs. in summer; from Southampton to New York every Wed. and every Mon. in summer; first saloon from 15/., second saloon from 10/. London Offices: 2 King William St., E.G., and 32 Gockspur St., S.W. Hamburg -American Line. From New York to Plymouth every Thurs. ; saloon 112'/2-275 dollars; second cabin 60-75 dollars. From Southampton to New York on Frid. ; saloon from 20/. London Offices : 22 Gockspur St., S.W., and 158 Leadenhall St., E.G. Anchor Line. From New York to Glasgow on Sat. ; from Glasgow to New York on Thurs. ; saloon from ^gs.. second cabin from 6i. 10». Allan Line. From Liverpool every Thurs. to Quebec and Montreal, and every alternate Sat. from Liverpool to St. .John's and Halifax. Saloon iO-2Qgs. Also services from Glasgow and London to Canada and the United States. PASSAGE. '^i^ Dominion Line. From Liverpool weekly in summer to Quebec and Montreal; in winter from Liverpool fortnightly to Halifax and Portland. Saloon i0-20gs. Also from Liverpool to Boston regularly. Saloon 15-30^. Leyland Line. From Liverpool weekly to Boston. Saloon passengers only; fare from lOi. Warren Line. Steamer 'Canada' from Liverpool regularly to Boston. Saloon-fares from lOZ. Atlantic Tran^jwri Line. From London to New York every Thurs. ; returning every Sat. Saloon passen^^ers only; fares 10-22^5. ; return 19-42/. The average duration of the passage across the Atlantic is 6-10 days. The best time for crossing is in summer. Passengers should pack clothing and other necessaries for the voyage in small flat boxes (not portmanteaus), such as can lie easily in the cabin, as all bulky luggage is stowed away in the hold. State-room trunks should not exceed 3 ft. in length. 2 ft. in breadth, and 15 inches in height. Dress for the voyage should be of a plain and ser- viceable description, and it is advisable, even in midsummer, to be pro- vided with warm clothing. A deck-chair, which may be purchased at the dock or on the steamer before sailing (from 6s. or Is. upwards), is a luxury that may almost be called a necessary (comp. p. 329). This should be dis- tinctly marked with the owner's name or initials, and may be left in charge of the Steamship Co.'s agents until the return-journey. The Ocean Com- fort Co., represented on the wharves at New York and Liverpool, lets chairs at is. ($ 1) for the voyage, and the American Steamship Co. provides its passengers with the same convenience for 2^. Seats at table, retained throughout the voyage, are usually assigned by the Saloon Steward im- mediately after starting; and those who wish to sit at a particular table or beside a particular person should apply to him. It is usual to give a fee of iOs. (2V2 dollars) to the table steward and to the state-room steward, and small gratuities are also expected by the boot-cleaner, the bath-steward, etc. The state-room steward should not be 'tipped' until he has brought all the passenger's small baggage safely on to the landing-stage or tender. From the steamers to Snuthampton (except those of the American line which enter the docks), landing is efTected with the aid of a steam-tender. Routes from England to the Continent. The following are the favourite routes between London and the Continent: — From Dover to Calais., thrice daily, in I'/vl'Ahr.; cabin 10«., steerage 85. (Railway from London to Dover, or vice versd., in 1 V4-2V4 hrs. ; see R. 2). From Folkestone to Boulogne, twice daily, in l'/2-2 hrs.; cabin 8«., steerage 6s. (Railway from London to Folkestone in'2-4 hrs. ; fares same as to Dover, except 3rd class, which is 6s.) From Dover to Ostend., thrice daily, in 4-5 hrs.; fares 8s. 6rf., 6*. Id. From London to Ostend., twice weeklv, in 12 hrs. (6 hrs. at sea); 7s. 6rf., 6s. From London to Rotterdam., twice a week, in 16-18 hrs. (12 hrs. at sea); 17s. or lis. From Harwich to Hoek of Holland and Rotterdam., daily, in 8-9 and 11- 12 hrs.; Great Eastern Railway from London to Harwich in 1V-2-2V2 hrs. (fares 13s. 3d., 5s. 111/2^.); fare from London or any Great Eastern station to Rotterdam, 29s. or IBs. From London to Antwerp., twice or thrice weekly, in 17-20 hrs. (8-9 hrs. of which are on the open sea); 16«. or 11<. From Haricich to Antwerp., daily (Sun. in summer only), in 12-13 hrs. (train from London to Harwich in li/2-2V'2 hrs.); 26<. or 15s. (from any Great Eastern station). From Harwich to Hamburg., twice weekly (train from London to Har- wich in 2-3 hrs.); fares from London U. 17s. 6d., 1/. 5s. 9d. From Harwich to Esbjerg (Denmark), thrice weekly in 30 hrs. (from London to Harwich, see above); fare from London, 1/. 17s. 6f/, 1/. l.os. From London to Bremen., twice a week, in 86-40 hrs.; 25s., I5s. From Queenborough to Flushing, twice daily in 8 hrs. (4 hrs. at sea); train from London to Queenborough in IV4 hr., from Flushing to Amsterdam in 6-9 hrs.; through-fare 36». Id. <>r 26s. b* XX RAILWAYS. From Newhaven to Dieppe^ daily, in 5-7 hra.; 14s. 7d., il«. id. (Rail from London to Kewhaven, or vice versd, in 2-3 hrs.; fares 2s. Qd., bs. 8d., 4«. Sd.) From London to Hamburg, thrice weekly, in 36-40 hrs.; il. 10s. or il. P>om Southampton to Havre, every evening (except Sun.), in 7-8 hrs, (fares 23«., 17s.). Rail, from London to Southampton, or vice versd, .seeR.ll. From Southampton to Bremerhaven ., by North German Lloyd steamer (p. xviii) in 25 hrs. ; 21. 10s., il. 10s. From Flpnioyth to Cuxhaven (Hamburg), by Hamburg-American steamer (p. xviii); 3Z. 10s., 21. 10s. From Southampton to Cherbourg., thrice a week ; 20s., 145. From Southampton to St. Malo, thrice a week; 23s., 17s. Steamers also ply regularly from Hull to Norway., Sweden., Denmark., etc. -, from Grimsby to Hamburg ., Antwerp., Rotterdam., Denmark., etc. ; from Leith to Hamburg., Kmigsberg, Noi'way., etc. ; from London and from Liverpool to Spain, Portugal, Egypt, etc. On the longer voyages (10 hrs. and upwards), or when special attenlicm has been required, the steward expects a gratuity of Is. or more, according to circumstances. Food and liquors are supplied on board all the steam- boats at fixed charges, but the viands are often not very inviting. An official Interpreter accompanies the chief trains on the Dover and Folkestone routes. III. Railways. Coaches. Steamboats. Railways. The railway-system of Great Britain is entirely in private hands, by far the greater part of the traffic being mono- polised by ten or twelve large railway-companies. The carriages (1st, 2nd, and 3rd class) are generally clean and comfortable, but those of some of the lines to the S. of London, as well as of most of the minor railways still surviving throughout the country, leave much to be desired. Several of the chief railway companies to the N. of London have discontinued the use of second-class carriages, with the effect of inducing a superior class of travellers to use the improved third-class accommodation, especially on long journeys. On the lunger routes 'corridor trains', with dining-cars (dinner Ss. 6c?., 2s.6rf.), somewhat after the pattern of the American vestibule trains, have been introduced ; though the former custom of halting for 20 -30 min. at a halfway station for dinner has not yet disappeared. Luncheon-baskets (2s. 6d.-3s.) may also be obtained at the prin- cipal stations. Sleeping-oars are run by the chief night-trains; and pillows and rugs are offered for hire (Is.) at the starting-points. Each company is bound by Act of Parliament to run at least one train daily ('parliamentary train') at a fare (3rd cl.) not exceeding Id. per mile; but the 3rd class fares in many of the fast trains are considerably in excess of this rate. Return -tickets are usually granted on very liberal terms ; and circular tour tickets and special 'tourist return-tickets' are issued in all the districts chiefly fre- quented by tourists (comp. pp. 282, 460). The N.E. Railway issues •1000 mile railway-tickets' (1st cl. only), at a reduction of about 20 per cent, entitling the purchaser to travel for 12 months in any direction over the company's system until the coupons are exhausted. Smoking is not permitted except in the compartments provided for the purpose. The speed of British trains is usually much higher COACHES. ^xi than that of Continental railways, and a rate of 40-50 M. an hour is not uncommon (comp. pp. 106, 464). On all the English lines the first-class passenger is entitled to carrv 112/6. of luggage free, second-class 80/6., and third-class 60/6. The com"- panies, however, rarely make any charge for overweight, unless the excess is exorbitant. On all inland routes the traveller should see that his lug- gage is duly labelled for his destination, and put into the right van, as other- wise the railways are not responsible for its transport. Travellers to the Continent require to book their luggage and obtain a ticket for it, after which it gives them no farther trouble. Transatlantic passt-ngers also are atlbrded facilities for 'checking' their baggage to and from the steamers. The railway porters are nominally forbidden to accept gratuities, but it is a common custom to give 2d-Qd. to the porter who transfers the luggage from the cab to the train or vice versa. Travellers accustomed to the formalities of Continental railway ofiicials may perhaps consider that in England they are too much left to themselves. Tickets are not invariably checked at the beginning of a journey, and travellers should therefore make sure that they are in the proper com- partment. The names of the stations are not always so conspicuous as they should be (especially at night); and the way in which the porters call them out, laying all the stress on the last syllable, is seldom of much assistance. The officials, however, are generally civil in answering ques- tions and giving information. In winter foot-warmers with hot water are usually provided. It is 'good form' for a passenger quitting a railway- carriage where there are other travellers to close the door behind him, and to pull up the window if he has had to let it down to reach the door-handle. Bi'adshaiv''s Railway Guide (monthly; Qd.) is the most complete; but numerous others (the ABC Railuaij Guide, etc.), claiming to be easier of reference, are also published. Each of the great railway-companies pub- lishes a monthly guide to its own system (price l-2d.). Coaches. In some of the most frequented tourist-districts, such as Wales, the Lakes, Devon, and Cornwall, coaches with two or four horses run regularly in the season , affording a very pleasant mode of locomotion in fine weather. In some places (e.g. between Camelford and Bideford ; R. 20) coaches afford the only regular communication. Coaches also ply from London to various points in the vicinity. The coaches are generally well-horsed and the fares reasonable. The best places are on the box-seat, beside the driver, ■who usually expects a small gratuity. — The regular charge for one-horse carriages is Is. per mile, carriage-and-pair Is. 6rf.-2s. per mile (half-fare in returning; i.e. the one-horse carr. fare to a point 10 M. off, and back, should be about 15s.); driver extra. Steamboats. Steamboats play by no means so important a part in the tourist-districts of England and Wales as they do in those of Scotland (see p. 461); but lovers of the sea will And no difliculty in indulging their taste, as the coasts of England are alive with steamers plying between the various ports. In summer steamers run between the chief sea-bathing resorts and the near- est large towns, and small pleasure-steamers ply on some of the lakes in the Lake District and on a few of the prettier rivers, par- ticularly in the S. of England (comp. pp. 133, 141, 145, 456). Steamers to the Isle of Man, seep. 346; to Scotland, see p. 471 ; to the Isle of Wight, see p. 66; to the Channel Islands, see p. 84. IV. Plan of Tour. The plan of tour must depend entirely on the traveller's taste and the time he has at his disposal. It may, however, he stated here that all the attractions of the island cannot possibly be visited in the course of a single summer. Among the most attractive dis- tricts are the English Lakes (R. 49); Edinburgh and the Scottish Highlands (RR. 65, 67-7*2) ; North Wales (R. 41) ; Devon and Cornwall (RR. 17-22); South Wales (RR. 26-30) and the Valley of the Wye (R. 23); the Shakespeare Country (RR. 34, 35); the Derbyshire Peak (R. 46); Surrey (R. 8) ; the Isle of Wight (R. 10); and the Channel Islands (R. 12). A glance at the map will show which groups can be most easily combined, always keeping in mind the admirable and speedy service of the railway-system. A round of the English cathedral cities makes a most delightful tour, while a visit to two or three can easily be added to an excursion in any of the districts above named. Among the more important cathe- drals may be mentioned those of Canterbury (p. 27), Lincoln (p. 435), York (p. 414), Salisbury (p. 98), Durham (p. 419), Ely (p. 448), Gloucester (p. 171), Norwich (p. 453), Lidifleld (p. 354), Peterborough (p. 369), Winchester (p. 76), and Wells (p. 123). Those who can manage it should not omit a visit to either Oxford (R. 33) or Cambridge (R. 57), or both. The pedestrian is unquestionably the most independent of travellers, and in exploring the Scottish and Welsh mountains he will have many advantages over the traveller by rail or coach. For a short tour a couple of flannel shirts, a pair of worsted stockings, slippers, the articles of the toiiet, a light waterproof, and a stout umbrella will generally be found a sufficient equipment. Strong and well-tried bods are essential to com- fort. Heavy and complicated knapsacks should be avoided; a light pouch or game-bag is far less irksome , and its position may be shifted at plea- sure. A m< re extensive reserve of clothing should not exceed the limits of a small portmanteau, which may be forwarded from town to town by railway. The sheets of the Ordnance Survey, published at a very moderate price, will be found invaluable for the pedestrian (see p. xxxii). — For hints to cyclists, see p. xxv. Good mountain-climbing may be obtained in Wales, the Lake District, and Scotland; though the experienced mountaineer will probably meet with no serious diflicully unless he seek it. In misty or doubtful weather, however, mountain-expeditions should never be attempted w^ithout a guide, ifr. W. P. Haskett Smith's 'Climbing in the British Isles' ('England'. 1894, 3.<. 6c/.; 'Wales and Ireland', 1895, 25. 6f/.) will be found useful. V. Hotels. The flrst-class hotels in the principal towns, fashionable water- ing places, and most frequented tourist-resorts throughout England and Wales are generally good and somewhat expensive ; but in many of the large commercial and industrial centres the require- ments of the 'uncommercial traveller' are very inadequately met. When ladies are of the party, it is advisable to frequent the best hotels, as the charges of the second-best are often not appreciably lower, while the comforts are considerably less. Gentlemen HOTELS. ^^^1^ travelling alone, however, will often find comfortable accommo- dation at a moderate rate in smaller inns of quite unassuming appearance. — Temperance Hotels, i.e. houses in which no intoxi- cating liquors are supplied, abound throughout the country. Their charges are moderate, but as a general rule their cuisine and flitting up do not entitle them to rank higher than second-class. The average charges in a lirst-class hotel are as follows : room 2s. 6d.-45. ; attendance Is. Bd.\ plain breakfast is. Gd., with ham and eggs or meat 25.-24. Qd., with fish 2s. &d.-3s.; table d'hote dinner 4-5s.', tea, same charges as for breakfast; hot bath 1«., cold bath in bedroom Gd. As a rule the price of dinner, whether fable d'hote or a coffee-room dinner of 3-6 courses, may be approximately stated as equal to the charge for room and attendance. No charge is made for lights. 'Pension' as used throughout the Handbook includes board, lodging, and attendance; D. means table d'hote dinner. At many hotel^i in watering-places, it is customary to supply breakfast also on the table-d'hote system, at a charge of 2s. 6d.-3s. Luncheon is generally ordered d la carte; for bread and cheese the or- dinary charge is is. The head- waiter, who presents the bill, and the 'boots' expect a gratuity when the visitor leaves •, but the services of the former are, strictly speaking, included in 'attendance'. As compared with Continental hotels, English hotels may be said as a rule to excel in beds, cleanliness, and sanitary arrangements, while their cuisine is on the whole inferior. The English table d'hote dinner is usually dear and seldom so good as its prototype on the Continent; while the culinary art of hotels off the beaten track of tourists scarcely soars beyond the preparation of plain joints, steaks, chops, vegetables, and puddings. Those, however, who are content with simple but substantial fare will find little to complain of. Beer is the customary beverage (2-3d. per glass, i-Qd. per pint or tankard), but wine is more usual at fashionable tables-d'hote, where beer is sometimes not supplied except in bottles and at higher rates. Restaurants are not nearly so common in England as on the Continent, and in most provincial places it is better to go to a hotel for meals. The dining-room is called the Cofee Room. Smoking is not permitted except in the Smoking Room and the Billiard Room. Re- freshments ordered in either of the last are generally paid for on the spot. Billiard-rooms are not usually found at second-class hotels except in large towns; the charge is Gd. per game of oO points. In all first-class hotels the visitor has a right to expect a high degree of comfort; and he need have no hesitation in requiring such^ small conveniences as hot water In the morning and before table d'hote, an abundant supply of towels, pen and ink in his bedroom, etc. In hotels not lighted throughout with gas there should be a supply of bedroom- candles on every floor, and not merely at the foot of the staircase. Station hotels are sometimes convenient, but often noisy. At some of the fashion- able spas (Harrogate, Buxton, etc.) it is usual to make a fixed charge per day, covering everything; and if visitors do not wish to be tied down to the hotel-meals they should make a special agreement. The Hydropathic Establishments , now so numerous in the popular tourist-districts of England, Wales, and Scotland, are frequented by pleasure- seekers as much as by patients, and may almost be described as large temperance hotels, in which the guests take their meals in common at prescribed hours and submit to various other general regulations. The hydropathic treatment may be followed or not, as the visitor pleases. The usual charge is about 8-10*. a day or 2V'2-3 guineas a week. Apartments. The expenses of a tour are greatly reduced by engaging apartments instead of frequenting hotels. Apartments, even for a night or two, are easily found in all the smaller towns, cathedral cities, etc., either by bills in the windows or on enquiry at respectable shops, etc. In London and the larger towns, however, strangers should not take apartments without a satisfactory reference. VI. Sports and Pastimes by W. Blew. Although there are few places in Great Britain which do not offer the visitor more or less facility for sport and pastime , the stranger will find the most varied programme when he locates him- self in some large town. The tendency of the time is to hring as many amusements as possible within the limits of enclosed grounds. These enclosures are , almost without exception , the property of a club, for the members of which the best accommodation is reserved. The public, however, can obtain admission by payment to the grounds and to stands not set apart for members. Forth-coming events are advertised in the papers, and any information on sporting matters may be obtained by addressing a letter to the editor of one of the sporting journals , such as the Field or the Sporting News. Horse Racing. The chief Kace Meetings held in enclosed grounds are those at Sanduwn and Kempton Park (see Baedeker^s London), Manchester, Leicester, Derby, Four Oaks (near Birmingham), and Gosforth Park (near Ifewcastle-on-Tyne). There are several annual meetings at each of these places: and owing to the large sums raced for, and the superior nature of the arrangements, these 'Gate-money' meetings are very popular. Many of the old-fashioned 'open" meetings, however, still survive. There is no charge for going on the course at Newmarket (p. 459), Epsom, Ascot (see Baedeker's London), Goodwood (p. 55), and many other places, though, of course , payment must be made for entrance to the stands and paddocks. "When the racing season closes, towards the end of November, the enclosed grounds are used for steeplechases and coursing meetings, the hares being kept in a pen and 'enlarged' as required. The chief steeplechase of the year is the Liverpool Grand National, run for in March: the course is upwards of 41/2 M. long and the value of the stakes is about 1000?. The Grand National Hunters'' Steeplechase is for horses coming under the definition of hunters, and takes place on a different course each year. Hunt Steeplechases, confined for the most part to horses which have been ridden with specified packs of hounds, are frequent in March and April, and are growing more and more popular. Hunting. Nearly the whole of England is hunted over by hounds of some kind or another, and no difficulty need be experienced in seeing a pack at work. In most counties hunters may be hired at a charge of 2-3 guineas a day. — The Devon and Somerset Staghounds hunt over Ex- moor (p. 164) and the Quantocks , pursuing the wild red deer which is found by the 'tufters.' Horses may be hired at Dulverton (p. 128J, Taun- ton (p. 127), etc. Vfix^ the exception of the New Forest Pack, all other packs of staghounds hunt the carted deer. Fox-hunting, however, is the most popular branch of this sport, and is seen in its glory in the so-called 'Shires', including Leicestershire (the chief), Northamptonshire, and parts of Rutland and "Warwickshire. Most packs are maintained by subscrip- tion ; and though anyone may hunt with them for a day or two without giving anything, more frequent visitors are expected to contribute to the support of the hounds. The packs of harriers are very numerous. The hunting season is opened by the Devon and Somerset Staghounds in the second week in August:, cub-hunting begins in September: and the Royal Buckhounds meet for forest -hunting al Ascot on the first Tuesday in October. Regular hunting begins on Nov. 1st, and lasts till about the middle of April, though in some counties a May fox is killed. Fishing. Wherever there is a river in England and "Wales, some kind of fishing may be had: and full information as to the conditions may generally be obtained at the local fishing-tackle shops. A good deal of the water is free, but in some cases a charge is made to anglers, while SPORTS AND PASTIiMES. ^^' in others fishing is granted as a favour only. Slapton Lea near Dartmouth merits notice, as the lake is close to the sea, and salt and fresh water lishing can be had within a stone's throw of each other. Deep-sea fishing can be indulged in at any of the seaside-resorts, but it is useless for 'the stranger to try it without a lisherman. Shooting. Though a few hotels advertise the right of shooting over a considerable area as open to their visitors, this is seldom of much account ■, and this pastime is practically confined to the owners and hirers of shootings and their friends. Aquatics. Boating is practised on all rivers wide and deep enough. The beauties of the Thames are well-known, and a favourite trip is to descend from Oxford to London by boat (see p. 219). The chief rowing tixture of the year is Henley Regatta (p. 221). — The Yachting season begins on the Thames and ends with the regattas on the Devonshire Coast in September. Comp. pp. 74, 131. — Sailing on the Norfolk Broads, see p. 458. Cricket is played everywhere, and the visitor who makes a prolonged stay will find no' difficulty in joining a club. The best cricket is to be seen at Lords and the Oval in London, on the grounds of the 'first-class' counties, and at Oxford and Cambridge. The 'first -class counties" are Surrey, York, Middlesex, Nottingham, Lancashire, Kent, Sussex, Somerset, Gloucester, Derby, Warwick, Essex, Hanipsliire. and Leicester, The cricket weeks at Canterbury (p. 32; in Aug.) and at Scarborough (p. 427: Sept.) also deserve notice. The Marylebone Club (at Lord's) is the chief govern- ing body in the cricket world. Lawn Tennis. Courts open to strangers on payment are found here and there in old skating-rinks, drill-halls, public gardens, etc., but as a rule this game cannot be seen to perfection except in the grounds of clubs or private persons. Tournaments, open to visitors on payment, take place in London, Buxton, Leamington, Torquay, and many other centres. Tennis lawns are often attached to the large hotels in fashionable resorts. Golf. Golf-links are to be found at almost every seaside and summer resort, as well as near most large towns. Strangers ai-e usually permitted to play for a weekly fee of 2s. 6c?.-10«., or on introduction. The head- quarters of the game is 67. Andrews. Other good links in Scotland are those at North Berwick. GvUane., Prestwick, Campbeltown.^ Troon. Dornoch, etc. Among the best English links are those at Saiulwich, Hoylake., Westward Ho, Felixstowe, Aldebiirgh, Alnmonth, etc. Comp. the Golfing Annual ( Fieli Office. London). Lack of space forbids more than a mere mention of the following sports and pastimes, all more or less popular in England : Polo., Archery, Foot'jall, Hockey, Otter-hunting, and La Crosse. Cycling (communicated by Mr. E. R. Shipton, Editor of the C. T. C. Gazette). Cycling prospers to an amazing degree in the United Kingdom, where it is "estimated that there are about l,f 100,000 cyclists, men and wo- men, while about 100,000 hands derive employment, directly or indirectly, from the manufacture and sale of bicycles and tricycles. The English roads, though inferior to some of the 'chanssees' of the Continent, are upon the whole above the average; and the American cyclist will probably find them far better adapted to his requirements than the ordinary highways of the United States. Speaking roughly, cycling in Britain is circumscribed only by the area of the island; but as a general rule the gradients of the roads inland will be found less severe than those along the coast, while their surfaces are also generally better. The roads of England and Scot- land are usually preferable to those of Wales and Ireland. The tourist, however, should not plan his route without regard to the configuration of the country, a knowledge of which is best attained by consulting a good map. [Bartholomew's map on the scale of 4 miles to an inch, mounted on linen, is portable and well adapted to the cyclist's use; it may be ob tained in sections (at 2s. per sheet) from any bookseller.] The American traveller who lands at Liverpool and has either brought his machine with him or has arranged to have one sent to meet him may profitably begin riding at once. If he turn to the S., he may proceed via xxvi OUTLINE OF ENGLISH HISTORY. Chester, Stafford^ and Birmingham to Coventry, whence he may diverge to take in Stratford-on-Avon, Kenilworth, and Leamington, continuing the jour- ney to London either direct or via Oxford. Should time admit, the run may be continued to Reading, Bristol, and through Mid -Devon to the Land""* End; or in shorter stages, as betits the roads, along the beautiful coast of North Devon. From Cornwall he may return to London via Ply- mouth and Exeter; or he may skirt the S. coast to Southampton, Brighton, and Ramsgate, running thence to London through Canterbury and Maid- stone. Should the traveller elect to go northward from Liverpool, he may visit the English Lakes, Carlisle, the Land of Burns, the Scottish Lakes, the Highlands, and so to John o' OroaVs House; returning hy Aberdeen, Perth, Edinburgh, Newcastle, York, Cambridge, etc. The cyclist, landing at Dover, Harwich, or any of the other usual steamboat harbours, may also begin his riding at once. North Wales is also an excellent tield for cyclists. The cyclist who contemplates even the shortest tour in Great Britain will find it decidedly advantageous to become a member of the Cyclists' Touring Club, which now possesses nearly 40,000 members. It has a re- sident Chief Consul in the United States [Mr. F. W. Weston, Savin Hill, Boston) and also Chief Consuls for Continental Europe. The entrance fee of this club is is., and the annual subscription bs. American cyclists who wish to become members may apply to Mr. Weston. Should they arrive in England without having been enrolled, they should communicate with the secretary {Mr. E. R. Shipton , 47 Victoria St., Westminster, S.W.), who, should their credentials be satisfactory, will send them a provisional cer- tificate of membership on payment of an additional fee oils. 6d. The new member should then at once buy the British Handbook of the C. T. C. (is. 6i/. ; sold to members only). This contains a list of 5000 hotels throughout the country, which charge members of the Club reduced tariti's; the ad- dresses of "nearly 1000 consuls {i.e. local resident wheelmen, who are pledged to help their fellow-members by information and advice) ; the names of over 2000 cycle repairers; and much other useful information. The Club publishes a similar handbook for Continental Europe; and has made an arrangement with various foreign Governments by which the wheels of members of the C. T. C. on tour are admitted duty-free on production of ticket of member-ship. The C. T. C. has published a Road Book of Eng- land and Wales (3 vols., 15s.; bs. per vol. extra to non-members); and Scottish and Irish volumes are in preparation. VII. Outline of English History. Roman Period (B.C. 55-A. D. 446). B. C. 55-54. Of Britain before its first invasion by Julius Caesar in B. C. 55 there is no authentic history. Caesar repeats his invasion in B. C. 54, but makes no permanent settlement. 43 A. D. Emp. Claudius undertakes the subjugation of Britain. 78-S5. South Britain, with part of Caledonia, is overrun by the Roman general Agricola, and reduced to the form of a province. 412. Roman legions recalled from Britain by Honorius. 445. The Britons are unable to resist the attacks of the Picts, and summon the Saxons, under Hengist and Horsa, to their aid. Anglo-Saxon Period (445 1066). 445-577. The Saxons, re-inforced by the Angles, Jutes, and other Germanic tribes, gradually overrun Britain and thus lay the foundations of the kingdom uf England. To this period belong the semi-mythical ex- ploits of King Arthur and his knights. 5S8-685. The Xorthumbrian Kingdom. Christianity re-introduced by St. Augustine (597). Caedmon (about 665). 6S5-823. The Three Kingdoms (Xorthumbria, Mercia, Wessex). The Venerable Bede (d. 735). 828. Egbert of Wessex recognized as overlord of all English kingdoms. 835-871. Contests with the Danes, who repeatedly invade England. OUTLINE OF ENGLISH HISTORY ^^vu 871-901. Alfred the Great defeats the Danes, and compels them to make peace. Creates navy, establishes militia, revises laws, reorganises institutions, is a patron of learning, and himself an author. 979-1016. Ethelred the Unready draws down upon England the ven- geance of the Danes by a massacre of those who had settled in England. 1013. The Danish "king Sweyn conquers England. 1016-1035. Canute the Great, the son of Sweyn, reigns over England. 1035-1040. Harold Harefoot, illegitimate son of Canute, usurps the throne. 1040-1042. Hardicanute, son of Canute. — The Saxon line is restored iu the person of — 1042-1066. Edward the Confessor, who makes London hi.s capital, and builds Westminster Abbey. His brother-in-law and successor — 1066. Harold, son of Earl Godwin, loses his kingdom and his life at the Battle of Hastings, where he opposed the invasion of the Normans, under William the Conqueror. NoKMAN Dynasty (1066-1154). 1066-1087. William the Conqueror, of Normandy, establishes himself as King of the English. Introduction of Norman (French) language and customs. 1087-1100. William II., surnamed Ru/us, after a tyrannical reign, is accidentally shot by Sir Walter Tyrrell while hunting (p. 83). 1100-1135. Henry I., Beaucler'c, defeats his elder brother Robert, Duke of Normandy, at the battle of Ti^nchebvai (1106), and adds Normandy to the possessions of the English crown. He leaves his kingdom to his daughter Matilda, who however, is unable to wrest it from — 1135-1154. Stephen, of Blots, grandson of the Conquercr. David, King of Scotland, and uncle of Matilda, is defeated and taken prisoner at the Battle of the Standard (1138). Stephen appoints as his successor Matilda's son, Henry of Anjou or Plantagenet (from the planta genista or broom, the badge of this family). House of Plantagenet (1154-1399). 1154-1189. Henry II. Strife with Thomas Beckel, Archbishop of Canter- bury, regarding the respective spheres of the civil and ecclesiastical powers. The Archbishop excommunicates the King's followers, and is murdered by four knights at Canterbury (1170). Conquest of Ireland (1170-72). Robin Hood, the forest outlaw, flourishes. 1189-1199. Richard I., Coevr de Lion, takes a prominent part in the Third Crusade, but is captured on his way home, and imprisoned in Germany for upwards of a year. He carries on war with Philip 11. of France. 1199-1216. John, surnamed Lackland, is defeated at Bouvines (1214) by Philip II. of France, and loses Normandy. Magna Charta, the groundwork of the English constitution, is extorted from him by his Barons (1215). 1216-1272. Henry III., by his misrule, becomes involved in a war with his Barons, headed by Simon de Montfort , and is defeated at Lewes. His son Edward gains the battle of Evesham, where De Montfort is slain. Hubert de Burgh defeats the French at sea. Provisions of Oxford (1258). Commons summoned to Parliament (1265). Roger Bacon, the philosopher. 1272-1307. Edward I., Longshanks, overcomes the Welsh under Lie- icellyn, and completes the conquest of Wales. The heir -apparent to the English throne thenceforward bears the title of Prince of Wales. Robert fi/'Mce and /o/i/i £a^■o/ struggle for the crown of Scotland. Edward espouses the CMMC of the latter (who swears fealty to England), and overruns Scot- land. The Scots, led by Sir William Wallace, otVer a determined resistance. Wallace executed at London (1305). The Scots defeated at Falkirk and Methuen, and the country subdued. Establishment of the English Par- liament substantially in its modern form (1295). 1307-1327. Edward II. is signally defeated at Bannockburn by the Scots under Robert Bruce the younger, and is forced to retire to England (1314). The Queen and her paramour Mortimer join with the Barons in xxviii OUTLINE OF ENGLISH HISTORY. taking up arms against the King, who is deposed, and shortly afterwards murdered in prison. 1327-1377. Edward III. defeats the Scots at Ealidon Hill and NevilWi Cross. Lays claim to the throne of France, and invades that country, thus beginning: the Hundred Years' War between France and Enerland. Victories of Ships fnaval; 134U), Cricy (1346), and Poitiers (1356). John the Good of France, taken prisoner by the Black Prince., dies in captivity (1364). After the death of the Black Prince, England loses all her French possessions, except Calais. Order of the Garter founded. Movement against the corruption of the clergy, headed by the reformer John Wyclife. House of Commons holds its meetings apart from the House of Lords. 1377-1399. Richard II. Rebellion of Wat Tyler, occasioned by in- crease of taxation. Victory over the Scots at Ottevhurn or Chevy Chase. Henry of Bolingbroke, Duke of Lancaster., leads an army against the King, takes him captive, and according to popular tradition, starves him to death in Pontefract Castle. Geoffrey Chaucer., the father of English poetry. House of Lancaster (1399-1461). 1399-1413. Henry IV,, Bolinghroke., now secures his election to the crown, in right of his descent from Henry III. Outbreak of the nobility, under the Earl of Northumberland and his son Percy Hotspur, is quelled by the victory of Shrewsbury, at which the latter is slain (1403). 1413-1422. Henry V. renews the claims of England to the French crown, wins the battle of Agincourt (1415), and subdues the N. of France. Persecution of the Lollards, or followers of Wvclitfe. 1422-1461. Henry VI. is proclaimed King" of France at Paris. The Maid of Orleans defeats the English and recovers French possessions. Outbreak of the civil contest called the '■Wars of the Roses", between the houses of Lancaster (red rose) and York (white rose). Henry becomes insane. Richard, Duke of York, grandson of Edward III., lays claim to the throne, joins himself with Warwick, the 'King-Maker, and wins the battle of Northampton, but is defeated and slain at Wakefield. His son Edward, however, is appointed King. Rebellion of Jack Cade. House of Yokk (1461-1485). 1461-1483. Edward IV. wins the battles of Towton, Hedgley Moor, and Hexham. Warwick takes the part of Margaret of Anjou, wife of Henry VI., and forces Edward to flee to Holland, whence, however, he soon returns and wins the victories of Barnet and Tewkesbury . Henry VI. dies sud- denly in the Tower (1471). Edward's brother, the Duke of Clarence, is said to have been drowned in a butt of malmsey. 1483. Edward V., the youthful son of Edward IV., is declared ille- gitimate, and murdered in the Tower, along with his brother, by his uncle, the Duke of Gloucester, who takes possession of the throne as — 1483-1485. Richard III., but is defeated and slain at Bosworth by Henry Tudor. Earl of Richmond, a scion of the House of Lancaster. House of Tddor (1485-1603). 1485-1509. Henry VII. marries Elizabeth, daughter of Edward IV., and so puts an end to the Wars of the Roses. The pretenders Lambert Sim- nel and Perkin Warbeck. 1509-1547. Henry VIII., married six times (to Catherine of Aragon, Anne Boleyn, Jane Seymour, Anne of Cleves, Catherine Howard, and Cath- erine Parr). Battles of the Spurs and Flodden. Separation of the Church of England from that of Rome. Dissolution of monasteries and perse- cution of the Papists. Cardinal Wolsey and Thomas Cromwell, all--Ti (|w p.r- ful ministers. Whitehall and St. James's Palace built. 1547-1553. Edward VI. encourages the Reformed faith. 1553-1558. Mary I. causes Lady Jane Grey, whom Edward had ap- pointed his successor, to be executed, and imprisons her own sister Eliza- beth. Marries Philip of Spain, and restores Roman Catholicism. Perse- cution of the Protestants. Calais taken by the French (1558). 1558-1603. Elizabeth. Protestantism re-established. Flourishing state OUTLINE OF ENGLISH HISTORY. ^^i^ of commerce. Marp, Queen of Scots, executed after a long confinement in England (1587). Destruction of the Spanish 'Invincible Armada' fl588i. Sir Francis Drake, the celebrated circumnavigator. Foundation of the East India Company. Golden age of English literature : Shakexpeare, Bacon, Spenser, Jonson, Beaumont, Fletcher, Marloice. Drayton. HousK OF Stuart (1603-1714). 1603-1625. James I., King of Scots, and son of Mary Stuart, unites by his accession the two kingdoms of England and Scotland. Persecution of the Puritans and Roman Catholics. Influence of Buckingham, Gun- powder Plot (1605). Execution of Sir Walter Raleigh (1618). 1625-1649. Charles I. imitates his father in the arbitrary nature of his rule, quarrels with Parliament on questions of taxation, dissolves it • repeatedly, and tyrannically attempts to arrest live members of the House of Commons {Hampden, Pym, etc.). Rise of the Covenanters in Scotland. Long Parliament. Outbreak of civil war between the King and his ad- herents (Cavaliers) on the one side, and the Parliament and its friends (Roundheads) on the other. The King defeated by Oliver Cromwell at Marston Moor and Naseby. He takes refuge in the Scottish camp, but is given up to the Parliamentary leaders, tried, and executed at Whitehall. 1649-1653. Commonwealth. The Scots rise in favour of Charles II., but are defeated at Dunbar and Worcester by Cromwell. 1653 1660. Protectorate. Oliver Cromwell now becomes Lord Pro- tector of England, and by his vigorous and wise government makes Eng- land prosperous at home and respected abroad. On CromwelPs death (165S), he is succeeded by his son Richard, who soon resigns, whereupon Charles II. is restored by General Monk, John Milton^ the poet ; Thomas flobbes, the philosopher; George Fox, the founder of the Quakers. 1660-16'^5. Charles II. General amnesty proclaimed, a few of the re- gicides only being excepted. Arbitrary government. The Cabal. Wars with Holland. Persecution of the Papists after the pretended discovery of a Popish Plot. Passing of the Habeas Corpus Act (1679). Wars with the Covenanters. Battle of Bolhwell Bridge. Rye House Plot. Charles a pen- sioner of France. Xames Whig and Tory come into use. Dryden and Butler, the poets; Locke, the philosopher; John Bunyan. 16^5-1688. James II., a Roman Catholic, soon alienates the people by his love for that form of religion, is quite unable to resist the invasion of William of Orange, escapes to France, and spends his last years at St. Germain, near Paris. Sir Isaac Newton (Principia', 1687). 1688-1702. William JII. and Mary II. William of Orange, with his wife, the eldest daughter of James II., now ascends the throne. The Declaration of Rights. Battles of Killiecrankie and The Boyne. Grand Alliance against Louis XIV. Peace of Rvswick (1697). First Partition Treaty (1698). Second Partition Treaty (1700). Act of Settlement (1701). 1702-1714. Anne, younger daughter of James II., completes the fusion of England and Scotland by the union of their parliaments. Marlborough^ s victories of Blenheim., Ramilies, Oudenarde, and Malplaquet. Capture of Gibraltar. The poets Pope, Addison, Sicift, Pnor, and Allan Ramsay. Hanoveeian Dynasty (1714 et seq.). 1714-1727. George I. succeeds in right of his descent from James I. Rebellion in Scotland (in favour of the Pretender) quelled. Sir Robert Walpole, prime minister. Daniel Defoe. 1727-1760. George II. Rebellion in favour nf the Young Pretender, Charles Edicard Stuart, crushed at Culloden (1746). Canada taken from the French. William Pitt, Lord Chatham, prime minister; Richardson, Fielding, Smollett, Sterne, novelists; Thomson, Young, Gray, Collins, Gay, poets. 1760-1820. George III. American War of Independence. War with France. Victories of Nelson at Aboukir and Trafalgar, and of Wellington in Spain and at Waterloo. British conquests in India. The younger Pitt, prime minister; Edmund Burke; Charles Fox; Shelley and Keats, poets; Adam Smith's 'Wealth of Nations' (1776). XXX WALES AND THE WELSH LANGUAGE. 1820-1830. George IV. Roman Catholic Emancipation Bill. Daniel O'Connell. The English aid the Greeks in the War of Independence. Vic- tory of Navarino. Byron, Sir Walter Scott. Wordsworth^ Coleridge^ Southey. ' 1830-1837. William IV. Abolition of slavery. Reform Bill, The present sovereign of Great Britain is — Q,ueen Victoria, born 24th Blay, 1819; ascended the throne in 1837; married, on 10th Feb., 1840, her cousin, Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg- Gotha (d. 14th Dec, 1861). The children of this marriage are ; — (1) Victoria, born 21st Nov., 1840: married to the Crown Prince of Germany (afterwards Emp. Frederick), 25th Jan., 1858. (2) Albert Edward, Prince of Wales, Heir Apparent to the throne, born 9th Nov., 1841; married Alexandra, Princess of Denmark, 10th March, 1863. (3) Alice, born 25th April, 18i3; married to the Grand-Duke of Hessen- Darmstadt, Ist July, 1862; died 14th Dec, 1878. (4) Alfred, Duke of Edinburgh, born 6th Aug., 1844; married the Grand Duchess Marie of Russia, 23rd Jan., 1874. (5) Helena, born 25th May, 1846; married to Prince Christian of Schles- wig-Holstein-Sonderburg-Augustenburg, 5th July, 1866. (6) Louise, born 18th March, 1848; married to the Marquis of Lome, eldest son of the Duke of Argyll, 21st March, 1871. (7) Arthur, Duke of Connaught, born 1st May, 1850; married Princess Louise Margaret of Prussia, 13th March, 1879. (8) Leopold, Duke of Albany, born 7th April, 1853; married Princess Helen of Waldeck-Pyrmont, 27th April, 1852; died 28th March, 1884. (9) Beatrice, born 14th April, 1857; married Prince Henry of Batten- berg, 23rd July, 1885; widow, 20th Jan., 1896. VIII. Wales and the Welsh Language. The formerly independent Principality of Wales (Welsh Cymru), with an area of 7363 sq. M. and (1891) 1,518,914 inhab., has been an integral and undisputed part of the British monarchy since 1535. Wales is by far the most mountainous part of South Britain, fully one-quarter of its surface being incapable of cultivation, and it con- tains, especially in its N. half, a great abundance of picturesque scenery (comp. R. 41). In all essential jmrticulars travelling in AVales is similar to travelling in England, and the tourist requires no special directions. Except in the remoter districts English is everywhere understood, but a few data in regard to the Welsh lan- guage are given below to aid in the pronunciation of proper names. — The national Welsh costume is now rare. Language. Welsh (Cymraeg) is a branch of the great family of Celtic languages to which the Armoric of Brittany, Cornish, Manx, and the Gaelic of Scotland and Ireland also belong. Its orthography is at first somewhat startling to Saxon eyes, but with the exception of one or two characteristic sounds, the difficulty is not so form- idable as it appears on the surface. •Most of the consonants of the Welsh alphabet are pronounced as in English; but / is pronounced like i', while c and g are always hard. Dd is pronounced like th in thus, th like th in think, ff like /, and ch like the German ch (guttural). The sound of II, perhaps the most difficult for a stranger, is produced by forming the mouth as if to pronounce I and then blowing. This sound bears the same relation to / as / does to v. A passable imitation of it is thl {e.g. Llangollen = Thlangothlen). The vowels BIBLIOGRAPHY. ^^^i a, e, t are pronounced as in the Continental languages (ah, eh^ ee), o almost as in English, and « is a kind of wide sound, the nearest approach to it in English being i as in fit. When used as a vowel (more often than not) ui is pronounced oo-, y is invariably a vowel and is equivalent to the Welsh « in the last syllable of a word and to « (as in but) in other positions. The circumflex C'^) is often used to denote a long vowel. The letters j, k, q, X, and z do not occur in Welsh. In combination the initial letter of a word is often transmuted ; thus d and t interchange; also f and b, and f and m. This change of letter often corresponds to a change of gender. In pronunciation the accent is always on the penultimate, except in a few cases when it is on the last syllable. The following list of Welsh words occurring in the names of places will be useful. Aher^ mouth of a river, confluence of rivers; afon., river; bach., hychan (fem. fach., fecftan), small; bedd, a grave; bod, a dwelling; brt/n (fryn), hill; btclch, pass, delile; caer (gaer), fort; cam, carnedd, cairn, heap of stones, rocky mountain; cefii, back, ridge; clogwyn. precipice; crib (pi. cribau), comb, crest; cwm, valley (comp. combe); din, dinas, a fortified post; dries, door, passage; du (ddu), black; dwr, dwfr, water; eglwys, church; ffynnon, a well or source; glyn, glen; gwy, water; gwyn, wyn (fem. gwm, teen), white, fair; llan, church or church-village (lit. en- closure); llyn (pi. llynnati), lake; maen, faen, vaen (pi. meini), a stone; maes, faes, a field; mawr,fawr, vawr, great; moel, foel, bare, bald; mynach, monk; mynydd, mountain; nant, brook, valley (also common in this sense in French Switzerland); netcydd, new; pant, a hoUow ; pen, top, head; pistyll, spout, cataract; pldi, palace, mansion; ponf , bout, brid!j:e; porih, borth, port, harbour; pwll, pool; rhaiadr, waterfall; rhiw, steep, slope; rhos, moor; rhudd, red; rhyd, a ford; sych, dry; tal, front, high, head; tan, under; tomen, a mound; traeth, beach; Irwyn, a point (lit. nose); twll, a pit; ty, a house; tyddyn, a farm; uchaf, highest, upper; y, yr, the; yn, in, into; ynys, island; ysirad, vale. If an opportunity presents itself, the traveller in Wales should not fail to attend an Eisteddfod (pron. eistethvod; lit. a 'sitting'), or gathering for competition in music, literature, etc. The best is the National Eisteddfod, held once a year; but the local 'Eisteddfodau' are also interesting. IX. Bibliography. The following is a small selection of the most recent, the most interesting, and the most easily accessible topographical and other books relating to England and Wales. Bulky works, such as county histories, and older books of which the value is mainly antiquarian have been purposely omitted. Numerous other works of local in- terest are referred to throughout the text of the Handbook. A full list of British topographical works will be fnund in the 'Book of British Topography' hy John P. Anderson (Satchell y R. W. Emerson One Hundred Davs in Europe, by 0. W. Holmes (1887). England, Without and Within, by R. O. White (Boston, 1881). Passages from the English Note -Books of Nathaniel Hawthorne (2 vols. Bdston, 1870). •English Towns and Districts, by E. A. Freeman (London, 1883). ^^^" BIBLIOGRAPHY. Gilpin's Forest Scenery, edited by Fra7tcis Q. Heath (London. 1879). Rural Rides in tlie Countiea of Surrey, etc, during the vears 1821-1832, by Wm. Cobbett (new ed., 2 vols.; London, 1885). Rambles by Patricius Walker (London, 1873). Old England and its Scenery (6th ed.5 Boston, 1879). England, Picturesque and Descriptive, by J. Cook (Philadelphia, 1882). Portraits of Places, by Henry James (188Q). Visits to Remarkable Places, by Wm. Hewitt (new ed., 1888). Bicycle Tour in England, by A. D. Chandler (Boston, 1881). ^Pennanfs Tour in Wales; new ed., by Rhys., 1883 (kept in many of the Welsh hotels). Wild Wales, by Geo. Borrow (3 vols.; 2nd ed., 1865), •Handbook to the Cathedrals of England and Wales, by JR. J. King; 6 vols., illus. (new ed., 1876 et seq. ; London, Murray). This is the standard work on English cathedrals. English Cathedrals, bv Mrs. Van Rensselaer., illus. bv Joseph Pemiell. Cathedral Churches of England and Wales; illus.; C'assell ^ c ^ CQ K i K > WILLESOEN GReEl 1. London.^ Arrival. Cabs (see p. 3) are in waiting at the railway-stations and landing-stages, and Private Omnibuses^ holding 6-10 persons, may be ob- tained at the chief stations on previous application to the Railway Co. (fare Is. per mile, with two horses Is. 6c?.-2s. , minimum charge 3-4s.). Those who arrive by water have sometimes to land in small boats (6^. for each per.son , 3d. for each trunk). The watermen with badges are alone bound by the tariff. Railway Stations. There are over 300 railway-stations in London, including those of the Underground Railway and the suburban stations of the ordinary lines. The following are the terminal stations of the chief lines. 1. Euston Square Station, near Euston Road and Tottenham Court Road, for the trains of the London and Xorth Western Railway to Rugby, Crewe, Chester, N. Wales, Holyhead (for Ireland), Birming- ham, Liverpool, Manchester, Carlisle, and Scotland. 2. St. Pancras Station, Euston Road, for the trains of the Midland Railway to Bedford, Derby, Nottingham, Leeds, 3Ianchester, Liverpool, Newcastle, and Scotland. 3. King^s Cross Station, Euston Road, adjoining the last, for the trains of the Great Northern Co. to Peterborough, Sheffield, York, Hull, Lincoln, Manchester, Liverpool, Newcastle, and Scotland. 4. Paddington Station, for the trains of the Great Western Railway to the West and South-West of England, Windsor, Oxford, Birmingham, Liverpool, Manchester, and Wales, b. Victoria Station, Victoria Street, S. W., a double station for the trains of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, the London, Bright- on, and South Coast Railway, and various suburban lines. 6. Waterloo Station, Waterloo Road, for the trains of the London and South Western Railway to Reading, Windsor, Southampton, and the South-West of Eng- land. 7. London Bridge Station, for the Brighton and South C<^tast Rail- way. 8. Charing Cross Station, close to Trafalgar Square, for the trains of the South Eastern Railway to Tunbridge, Canterbury, Folkestone, Dover, etc., and of local lines. 9. Cannon Street Station, the City terminus for the same lines as Charing Cross. 10. Ludgate Hill, 11. Holborn Viaduct, and 12. St. Pauls (near Blackfriars Bridge). City termini of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, and of local lines. 13. Liverpool Street Station, for the trains of theGreatEastern Railway to Cambridge, Lincoln, the Eastern Counties, and local stations. 1^. Broad Street Station, adjoining the la-'^t, for the local trains of the North London Railway. 15. Fenchurch Street Station. near the Bank, for Blackwall, Tilbury, Gravesend, Southend, etc. IB. Baker Street, for Harrow, Rickmansworth, Aylesbury, etc., and suburban stations. 17. Marylehone Station, for the trains of the Central Railway to Nottingham, Leicester, Sheffield, Lincoln, etc., is to be opened in 1888. Steamers. Steamers from the Continent of Europe, Scotland, etc. land their passengers at wharves below London Bridge (landing, see above), while the large Oceanic liners enter the docks lower down the river, the passengers, when necessary, being sent on to London by special trains. American visitors to England usually land at Liverpool (p. 328) or South- ampton (p. 80). Custom-house, see p. xviii. — Thames Steamboats, see p. 3. Steamers also ply in summer to Margate. Ramsgate, Southend, Clacton-on-Sea, Harwich, Ipswich, Yarmouth, Ostend. and Boulogne. Hotels. The following are large railway-hotels, with rooms at various rates: "Midland Grand, St. Pancras Station; Euston, Euston Square; Great Northern , King's Cross; Great Western, Paddington Station: Charing Cross, Charing Cross Station, Strand; Grosvenor, Viitoria + For a detailed description of London the traveller is referred to Baedeker's Handbook for London (iOth edit., 18P6). Baedeker's Great Britain. 4th Edit. 1 2 Route 1. LONDON. Hotels. Station ; Holborn Viaduct, Holborn Viaduct Station ; Cannon Steeet, Cannon St. Station; Geeat Eastern, Liverpool St.; Geand Centeal, Marylebone Station (building). — Jn or near Charing Cross and (he Strand: Hotel Cecil, R. & A. from 55., Savot, R. Si A. from 7s. Qd., both on the Thames Embankment, overlooking the river; *Metropole, 'Victoeia, *Grand, Northumberland Avenue, R. &■ A. from 5s. : 'Morleys, Trafalgar Square, R. &. A. from As. Gd. ; Golden Cross, 352 Strand ; Tavistock (for gentlemen only), R., A., & B. 7s. 6d., in the Piazza, Covent Garden: Covent Garden, corner of Southampton St., peas, from lUs. The streets leading from the Strand to the Thames contain a number of quiet and comfortable hotels with reasonable charges: Aecndel, Temple, Arandel St., Nos. 19 and 28; Howard, Kent, Norfolk St.; Loudoun, Lax's, Rotal Surrey, Norfolk, Nos. 24, 5, 14, and 30 Surrey St.; Adelphi, Adam St.; Caledonian, 10 Adelphi Terrace. — In or near Piccadilly: "ALBEiiARLE, Berkeley, Avon- dale, Bath, all in Piccadilly; ••'Long's, 15 New Bond St.: '■'Bristol, Bur- lington Gardens; "^Limmee's, George St., Hanover Square, R. &. A. from 5s. Cd., D. 4s.; "^Brown's & St. George's Hotel, Albemarle St. and Dover St.; Buckland's, 43 Brook St.; Cobueg, Carlos St., Grosvenor Square (rebuilding); HARVEr's, Curzon St., Mayfair. The following are all in Jermyn St., to the S. of Piccadilly: Waterloo (85), R. & A. from 3s. 6d. : Cavendish (81), R. & A. from 5s". 6d. : British (82), Brunswick (52), Cox's (55), Rawling's (37), Mobles (102), five comfortable houses for single gentlemen. The accommodation at these West End hotels is gener- ally good and the terms high (R. Ic^^^^; ;^ < ■lOCC l^'co ' o • ( "" t CO .5 1 I > l^> I I 8 S ■ •■^i 's.:^' •■Is S 5 II' It IS «?. ^ 6 s -s -:; « ft. w 2 « a •« fe^ 5 s e s* IM ea-o- c r Ot3 t^ ii p. lg S fl O O , c 00 a c Is." « .a „SCO pj ^^ o ^r s-s-ra ^ S 1 1? c . r, => « a I si 13 ^ .^C^COCD 5 a a - ° ^ fa- S '^ ^ •» S fl ■Is. 1 -th oa oj ^^ CJ Oco t« >--CD . l> a bi"'-^ P, ^3 . o a °' i a . . rf a w 2 S ''s tn 2i tf fl 'k «- «C> il7 i^s Situation. LONDON. /. Route. 5 Theatres. London contains about 50 theatres, most of which are in or near the Strand. Opera is performed at the Royal Italian Opera or Covent Garden Theatre. The largest theatre is Drury Lane Theatre., for spectacular plays, pantomimes, etc. Among the other leading theatres are the Lyceum (Sir Henry Irving and Miss Ellen Terry), the Haymarket, St. James's^ Savoy., Princes.'s's, Adelphi., Strand, Gaiety, Vaudeville, Globe, Royal Court, Criterion, TooWs, Garrick, Shaftesbury, Lyric, Dah/s, Terry'^s, Olympic, Comedy, Avenue, Duke of York, Prince of Wales, Her Majedys, and Royalty. Music Halls. Alhambra, Empire, Leicester Square (with elaborate ballets); Palace, Cambridge Circus; London Pavilion, Piccadilly Circus; Tivoli, Strand; Oxford, 14 Oxford St., and many others. — Concerts of high-class music are given at St. James's Hall, Queen s Hall, the Royal Albert Hall, the Crystal Palace, etc. Places of Entertainment. Mme. Tussaud^ Waxworks, Marylebone Road; Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly; Moore and Burgess Minstrels (Christy Minstrels), St. James's Hall; St. Georges Hall ('Matinee Theatre'); Royal Aquarium, Westminster; O^yT/iptft, near the Addison Road Station, Kensington; EarVs Court Exhibition Grounds; Agricultural Hall, Islington; Niagara Hall Skating Rink (real ice), York St., Westminster (adm. in the afternoon 5s., other times 35.) ; National Skating Palace, Argyll St., Regent St. Exhibitions of Pictures. Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Burlington House, Piccadilly (exhibition of works of modern British artists in summer; adm. Is.); New Gallery, 121 Regent St. {is.); Royal Society of Painters in Water- Colours, 5a Pall Mall East (1«.); Royal Institute of Painters in Water- Colours, 191 Piccadilly (Is.); Grafton Gallery, Grafton St., Bond St.; Royal Society of British Artists, 6 Suffolk St., Pall Mall; Lemercier Gallery, 35 New Bond St. (Is.); and numerous smaller galleries in Bond St. and Haymarket. 'United States Minister, Hon. Col. John Hay, 123 Victoria St., S.W. (11-3); Consul-General, William M. Osborne, Esq., 12 St. Helen's Place, Bishopsgate, E. C. The Lady Guide Association, 852 Strand, gives information of all kinds to travellers. Principal Sights. The table on p. 4 shows the principal sights of London, with the hours and other conditions of admission. London, the metropolis of the British Empire and the largest city in the world, lies in the S.E. of England, on both banks of the river Thames, and embraces parts of the four counties of Middlesex, Essex, Kent, and Surrey. At the census of 1891 the aggregate pop- ulation of the metropolitan parliamentary boroughs (conterminous with the County of the City of London) was 4,211,056. The city has doubled in size within the last half-century, being now about 15 M. long from E. to W., and 9 M. wide from N. to S., and cover- ing 122 sq. M. of ground. The area included in the Metropolitan Police District, extending for a radius of 15 M. from Charing Cross, amounts to 690 sq. M. and contains 5,633,332 inhab. (including the 'City' proper). The principal and larger part of London lies on the N. bank of the Thames, and includes the City, or commercial and money-making quarter on the E., and the fashionable West End, with the palaces of the Queen and the nobility and most of the sights frequented by visitors. The manufacturing quarters on the right bank of the Thames, and also the outlying districts to the N. and E. are com- paratively uninteresting to strangers. 6 Route 1. LONDON. National Gallery. Charing Cross, which is the official centre of London, from which the cab-radius, etc., are measured, and also practically the centre of the London of the sight-seer, is the open space to the S. of Trafalgar Square, between the Strand and Whitehall. *Tra- falgar Square, one of the finest open spaces in London, contains the Nelson Column and statues of Sir Henry Havelock, Sir Chas. Napier, George IV., and Gen. Gordon. To the N.E. is the church of St. Martins in the Fields, by Gibbs. On the N. side of Trafalgar Square stands the **National Gal- lery, erected in 1832-38 and enlarged in 1860, 1876, and 1887 (adm., see p. 4 ; catalogues Is. and 6d.). From the large number of artists represented, the collections it contains are of the highest value to the student of art, and there is no lack of master-pieces of the first rank. The Italian and Netherlandish Schools are admirably represented, the French and Spanish less fully. The Older British Masters are well illustrated, and the large collection of Turner's landscapes is unrivalled, but the English water-colourists are al- most unrepresented. About 1100 pictures in all are exhibited. Rooms I-IX, reached by the central staircase, contain the Italian pictures; RE. X-XII the Flemish and Dutch; R. XIII the late Italian; R. XIV the French ; R. XV the Spanish ; RR. XVI-XVII (at the head of the staircase to the right) the old British-, RR. XIX-XXI the modern British; and R. XXII the Turner Collection. In the basement are a collection of water-colours by Turner (right), water-colour copies of early Italian painters, and copies of Velazquez and Rembrandt (left). Among the chief treasures of the Gallery are RaphaeVs 'Madonna degli Ansidei' (No. 1171, R. VI; bought in 1884 for 70,000/.), 'Garvagh Madonna' (744, VI), Vision of a Knight (213, VI), and St. Catharine (168, VI); Titian's Bacchus and Ariadne (35, VII), Holy Family (635. VII), and 'Noli me tangere' (270, VII); Veronese's Family of Darius (294, VII); portraits by Moroni (697, 1316, 1022, VII) and Morelto (299, VII); good specimens of Oiov. Bellini (280, 189, 1440, 726, VII); the Rais- ing of Lazarus, by Sebastian del Piombo (1, VII); Madonna and Child, ascribed to Leon, da Vinci (1093, I); a portrait by Andrea del Sarto (690, I); Fra Angelica's Christ with the banner of the Resurrection (663, II) ; Botii- celWs Nativity (1034, I) ; a Madonna by Perugino (288, VI) ; works by Cor- reggio (23, 15, 10, IX); portraits and other works by Rembrandt (775, 672. 243, 757, 45, X); Charles I., by Van Dyck (1172, X; bought for 17,500/.); the Idle Servant, by Maas (207, X); Triumph of Julius Caesar and the 'Chapeau de Paille', by Rubens (278, X, and 852, XII) ; Peace of Miinster, bv Terburg (896, X) ; three beautiful little works by Jan van Eyck (222, 186, 290, IV) ; The Ambassadors, by Holbein (1314, IV); good specimens of De Hooghe (834, 835, XII), Cuyp, ffobbema, Hals, Van der Heist, I. van Ostade, etc.; landscapes by Claude Lor rain (R. XIV); characteristic examples of Velazquez and Murillo (R. XV); numerous works of Hogarth, Reynolds, Gainsborough (XVI. XVII). Constable (XIX), Turner (XXII), etc. ; two works by Rossetti (XVIII and XX). The **National Portrait Gallery, adjoining the National Gal- lery on the N.E., was built in 1890-96 and contains a collection (founded in 1856) of over 1000 portraits of men and women eminent in British history, literature, science, and art. In the earlier rooms are specimens of Holbein^ Van Dyck, More, Mierevelt, Reynolds, Kneller, Gainsborough. Romney, and others; in the modern rooms is a fine series of portraits by G. F. Watts. Westminster Abbey. LONDON. I. Route. 7 From Trafalgar Square Pall Mall, with the principal Clubs, Marlborough House (Prince of Wales), and St. Jumes's Pulace, leads to the S.W. towards the Green Park. A little to the S. of Pall Mall lies St. Jameses Park, at the W. end of which is Buckingham Palace, the London residence of the Queen, containing a fine picture gallery (access difficult of attainment). NoRTHUMBBRLAXD AvENUE, leading to the S.E. from Trafalgar Square to the Thames, contains three huge hotels and the Consti- tutional Club. On the Embankment is the National Liberal Club. Whitehall, leading to the S. from Trafalgar Square, passes the Admiralty, the Horse Guards (headquarters of the military authorities), and various Government Offices (all to the right). On the other side is the palace of *Whitehall, the only relic of which is the fine Palladian Banqueting Hall, which now contains the United Service Museum (adm., see p. 4). Whitehall is con- tinued by Parliament Street, leading to Parliament Square, which is embellished with statues of Peel, Palmerston, Derby, Beaconsfield, and Canning. To the left rise the *Houses of Parlia- ment, a huge building in the richest late-Gothic (Tudor) style, by Sir Charles Barry. The exterior is adorned with innumerable statues, and the interior is fitted up with great taste and splen- dour (adm., see p. 4; adm. to sittings of the House of Lords or House of Commons through a member; the former open to the public when sitting as a Court of Appeal^. The Victoria Tower, the largest of the three which adorn the building, is 340 ft. high. — Westminster HaU, adjoining the Houses of Parliament on the W. and forming a kind of public entrance-hall, is part of the ancient palace of Westminster and dates mainly from the 14th century. The fine oaken ceiling is a master-piece of timber architecture. To the S. of Parliament Square, opposite the Houses of Parlia- ment, stands **Westminster Abbey, said to have been founded in the 7th cent., rebuilt by Edward the Confessor (1049-65), and dat- ing in its present form mainly from the latter half of the 13th cent., with numerous important additions and alterations. The chapel of Henry VIL dates from the beginning of the 16th cent., and the towers from 1722-40. With its royal burial-vaults and long series of monuments to celebrated men, Westminster Abbey may claim to be the British Walhalla or Temple of Fame. Admission, see p. 4. The 'Interior produces a very fine and imposing etTect, though this is somewhat mnrred by the egregiously bad taste of many of the monu- ments with which nave, aisles, and transepts are filled. The most inter- esting monuments are, perhaps, those in the Poets' Comer (S. transept). Of the chapels at the E. end of the church (adm., see p. 4) the most note- worthy are those of Edward the Confessor and the beautiful Perp. **'Chapel of Henry VII.; but all contain interesting tombs. The Cloisters and Chap- ter Iloute should also be visited. To the N. of the abbey stands St. Margaret's Church, with some interesting monuments and stained-glass windows. On the S. it is adjoined by Westminster School, one of the oldest and most im- 8 Route 1. LONDON. Kensington Museum. portant schools in the country. The Westminster Column, to the W. of the Abbey, commemorates former pupils killed in war. From Westminster Bridge, whicli crosses the Thames here, the ''Vic- toria Embankmekt runs to the N., along the left bank of the river, to Blackfriars, while the Albert Embankment extends to the S., on the oppo- site bank, to Vauxhall Bridge. The former is embellished with Cleopatra's Needle (an obelisk brought from Egypt), several Staines, and pleasantly laid-out gardens. Among the chief buildings adjoining the Victoria Em- bankment are JVew Scotland Yard (headquarters of the police), Montague House (Duke of Buccleuch). the National Liberal Club (p. 7), the Cecil Hotel (p. 2), the Savoy Hotel (p. 2), IYlq Medical Examination Hall. Somerset House (p. 12), the School Board Office, the Temple (p. 11), Sion College, the Citi/ of London School, and the Royal Hotel (p. 2). Near the N. end of Vauxhall Bridge (see above), on part of the site formerly occupied by Millbank Penitentiary, is a large new Gallery of British Art (to be opened 1898) for the reception of a collection of modern paintings presented to the nation by Mr. Tate. We may now return to Trafalgar Square and proceed to the N.W. to Piccadilly, a handsome street extending to the W. from the Haymarket. To the right is Burlington House, the headquar- ters of the Royal Academy, Royal Society, and several other learned bodies. To the left is the Museum of Practical Geology (adm., see p. 4; entr, from Jermyn St.). The W. half of Piccadilly, skirting the Green Park, contains many aristocratic residences and clubs. Piccadilly ends at Hyde Park Corner, the S.E. entrance of *Hyde Park, the most fashionable of the London parks, covering an area of nearly 400 acres. The favourite drive extends along its S. side from Hyde Park Corner to Kensington Gate and is thronged with carriages from 5 to 7 p.m. in the season. Parallel to the drive is Rotten Row, the chief resort of equestrians. The large piece of artificial water is named the Serpentine. To the W., Hyde Park is adjoined by Kensington Gardens , containing Kensington Palace, now occupied by the Duke of Teck and various royal pensioners. The line of Piccadilly is prolonged towards the W. by Knights- bridge (with large cavalry barracks) and Kensington Gore, skirting the S. side of Hyde Park. To the right, within the park, rises the Albert Memorial , a magnificent Gothic monument to the late Prince Consort. Opposite is the Albert Hall, a huge circular structure in brick and terracotta, used for concerts and oratorios and accommodating about 10,000 people. Behind the Albert Hall is the Imperial Institute, opened in 1893, with permanent and loan collections illustrating the natural and industrial resources of the British Empire, the Colonies, and India. Adm. (p. 4) by the E. and W. entrances. The Exhibition Galleries farther to the S. con- tain the *India Museum (E. gallery), a fine collection of Oriental works of industry and art, and other collections connected with South Kensington Museum (see below). **Soutli Kensington Museum, situated at the corner of Exhi- bition Road (leading S. from Kensington Gore ) and Cromwell Road, includes a museum of ornamental or applied art, a national gallery British Museum. LONDON. 7. Route. 9 of British art, an art-library, an art training-school, and a school of science (adm., see p. 4). The *'Art Collection, one of the largest and finest in the world, is exhibited in three large glass-roofed courts and in the galleries adjoining them. We first enter the Architectural Court, chiefly containing casts, but also a few fine original works. The South Court contains small works of art in metal, ivory, amber, porcelain, etc., many of which are on loan. The North Court is devoted to Italian art, comprising numer- ous original sculptures of the Renaissance. — The National Gallert of British Art, on the upper floor, contains an extensive and representative ■Collection of British Water- Colours, the Sheepshanks Collection of modern paintings, the famous ""Cartoons of Raphael, etc. On the same floor are the '"Ceramic Gallery, the "Jones Collection of French Furniture, a "Collection of Enamels (Prince Consort Gallery), and other valuable works of art. To the W. of this museum is the *Natural History Museum, a handsome and most convenient structure, containing the extensive natural history collections of the British Museum. On the N., Hyde Park is bounded by the Uxbridge Road, the prolongation of which to the E. forms perhaps the most important line of thoroughfare in London. Oxford Street, the first of this magnificent series of streets, begins at the Marble Arch, or N.E. entrance of Hyde Park, and is about I'^M. in length. The squares near its W. half contain many of the most aristocratic houses in London, while its E. half is an unbroken series of attractive shops. Among the chief streets diverging from it are Edgware Road^ Bond Street (with fashionable shops and picture-galleries), Regent Street (see below), Tottenham Court Road, and Charing Cross Road (lead- ing to Charing Cross). In Manchester Square, to the N. of Oxford St., is Hertford House, containing the ^Hertford Collection, the finest private collection of paintings in England, bequeathed to the nation in 1897 by Lady Wallace, but not yet thrown open to the public. Oxford Circus, where Oxford St. intersects Regent St., is one of the chief centres of the omnibus traffic. Regent Street, one of the finest streets in London, containing many of the best shops, extends from Waterloo Place, Pall Mall, to Portland Place, which ends at the Regent's Park. 'Regent's Park, 470 acres in extent, is well worthy of a visit and contains the gardens of the "Zoological Society (adm., see p. 4) and the Botanical Societij (adm. Mon. (fe Sat. is. ; alternate Wed. 2s. Qd.; foreigners also on application). Both park and street take their name from the Prince Regent, afterwards George IV. On the S. the park is bounded by Martlebone Road, with Tussaud's Waxworks (adm. is.; Chamber of Horrors' 6rf. extra; close to Baker St. station, p. 1). To the N. of Regent's Park rises Primrose Hill, beyond which lies Hampstead. From New Oxford St. , beyond Tottenham Court Road (see above), two short streets lead to the left (N.) to the **Biitish Mu- seum (adm., see p. 4), a huge building with an Ionic portico, containing a series of extensive and highly valuable collections. Ground Floor. To the right of the entrance is the section for Print- ed Books and Manuscripts, containing numeroiifl incunabula, autographs, and other objects of the greatest interest and value. — The galleries to the left contain the Greek and Roman Sculptures, including the famous "'"Elgin Marbles. — Other galleries on this side (W.) contain the almost equally important Egyptian and Assyrian Collections. — The door imme- 10 Route 1. LONDON. St. Paul's. diately opposite tlie main entrance leads to the huge circular *Reading Koom, which is shown to visitors, on application T'» the official at the entrance. Upper Floor. The W. wing contains the Ethnological Department, the Mediaeval Antiquities, the Glass and Ceramic Gallery, and the Col- lection of Prints. — In the E. wing are the "Vases, Bronzes, Terracotta Works, and Gold Ornaments. — The N. galleries are devoted to the smaller Etruscan, Egyptian, Assyrian, and Phoenician Antiquities, including an extensive collection of miimmies; and to the Religious Collections. Oxford Street is continued by Holborn, *Holborn Viaduct (a clever piece of engineering), Newgate St., and Cheapside. To the left diverges the wide Charterhouse Street^ leading to the extensive Smithfield Markets and to the Charterhouse, an interesting old building used as an asylum for old men ( adm.. see p. 41. Adjoining Smithfield are St. Bartholomew' s Hospital and the *Church of St. Bartholomew, with a fine Norman interior, recently restored. In Newgate Street, to the left, is Christ's Hospital ('Blue-coat School"), a school for 1000 boys and 350 girls, founded by Ed- ward VI. The boys still wear their curious original dress. Just beyond it are the large buildings of the General Post Office, the W. section containing the telegraph-department. A few yards to the S. of Newgate Street rises *St. Paul's Cathedral (adm., see p. 4), an imposing classical building with a beautifully proportioned dome, erected by Sir Christopher Wren in 1675-1710 on the site of the older building destroyed by the Great Fire (1666). The Interior, though somewhat bare and dark, is imposing from the beauty and vastness of its proportions. It is second to Westminster Abbey alone as the burial-place of eminent men. particularly naval and mili- tary officers. As in the Abbey, the monuments are seldom of artistic value, but a prominent exception is the monument of the ''Duke of Wellington^ by Stevens. The Duke and Lord Nelson are buried in the Crypt (6d.)- The visitor may ascend to the Whispering Gallery., with its curious acoustic properties," and to the !•) Chels- field, was for 40 years the home of Charles Darwin (d. 1882). Tun- nel. Beyond (I6V2 M.) Halstead, 21/2 M. to the S.W. of which are '■IWuGn^ ^ )i- 4.rxjE3k lOff arqrjiQ ,'iapitnDjj Surj' tJNIVBRSITY of rATTT?ot>. LOS A "^,f ""o rh t iL I i-ti ^A-^^ i jb-*iA,^ ■!"« ^^^ "'j^ *■!> '( DkieTrll V f/ \ M^f i. " < ( '_^ l ^ to Dover. TUNBRIDGE. 2. Route. 13 the Knockholt Beeches (see below) , we traverse another tunnel, 13/4 M. long, and, passing through rich park-like scenery, reach (2OV2 -VI.) Dunton Green, the junction of a short branch to Wester- ham (King's Arms; Crown), ascending the valley of the Darent. Westerham was the birth-place of General Wolfe (1727-59) , to whom a memorial has been erected in the church. 22 M. Sevenoaks (*Crown) , with 7514 inhab. , may also be reached from London by the L., C, & D. Railway via Swanley (comp. p. 18). The S.E. station is known as Tubs Hill, that of the L., C, & D. Railway as the Bat & Ball Station. The church of St. Thomas of Canterbury was erected as a memorial of Cardinal Manning. To the S. E. lies *Knole, the seat of Lord Sackville (minister at Washington, 1881-88), one of the noblest baronial mansions in England, almost unchanged both inside and outside since the times of James I. and Charles I. Visitors are admitted onFrid. by order obtained from Messrs. Glasier & Sons, 7 St. Jamess St., London, S'.W. (1 pers. 2«., 4 pers. 6*., 7 pers. lOs.). The rooms shown to visitors include the G^reat Hall, the Brown Oallery (with portraits by Holbein and others), the Spangled Bed- room db Dressing Room (portraits by Lely), the Leicester Oallery (portraits by Van Dyck, Mytens, etc.), the Ball Room, the Crimson Drawing Room (portraits by Reynolds), the Cartoon Oallery (with copies, by Mytens, of six of Raphael's cartoons), Lady Betty Oerviaine's Bedroom, the Venetian Ambassador''s Bedroom, and the King^s Bedroom. The magnificent park, with fine beeches, is open to visitors. — Sevenoaks is also a good centre for many other pleasant walks, one of the most interesting being that to the N.W. to the famous Knockholt Beeches (*View) and (37-2 M.) Chevening, the beautiful seat of Earl Stanhope (son of the historian) , with a fine park open to the public. — About 3Vi! M. to the E. is "Ightham Mote, one of the best specimens of a moated manor-house in England, with a fine domestic chapel of the time of Henry VIIL Beyond Sevenoaks the train penetrates a range of low hills by a tunnel, 27-2 M. long. — 27 M. Hildenborough. 291/2 M.Tunbridgei'fiosecJ- Crown; Rail. Rfmt. iJoomsj, a market- town with 10,123 inhab., an old Castle (adm. by permission of the owner), and a grammar-school dating from 1553, now in a large modern building, is the junction of the S.E. line from London via Redhill and of the main line to Tunbridge Wells Sind Hastings (R.4). From Tdnbridge to Redhill Junction, 21 M., railway in 40 min. (fares is. 9d., 3s. 2d., is. V/id.). — 5 M. Penshurst (Leicester Arms, in the village, 2 M. from the station). 'Penshurst Place, the lovely seat of Lord de Lisle and Dudley, dating in part from the 14th cent., contains a fine picture-gallery, to which visitors are admitted on Mon., Wed., and Frid. (12-1 and 3-6). The hall. 64 ft. in length, has the hearth in the centre. Its chief historical interest lies in having once belonged to the Sidneys, portraits of many of whom hang on the walls, including two of Sir Philip Sidney (who was born here) and four of Algernon Sidney. The trees in the park are very fine; one avenue is known as 'Sacharissa Walk', from Dorothy Sidney, the 'Sacharissa' of Waller. The walk from Penshurst to Edenbridge, through the quaint and pretty village of C hid ding stone ., and thence via (41/2 M.) Hever is very picturesque. Hever (raih stat., p. 36) is an old embattled mansion-house (14th cent.-, shown on W^ed.), where Henry VIU. often visited Anne Boleyn, and afterwards occupied by Anne of Cleves, who is Baid to have died here-, it is now a farm-house. The church of Hever contains several monuments of the Boleyn family. — 10 31. Eden- bi'idge (Crown), also a station on the L. B. S. C. R. (p. 45); 15 M. Oodstone. — IS'/a M. Nut field. The village (Queen's Head; Crown), 1 M. to the N. 14 Route 2. ASHFORD. From London of the railway, possesses several pits of fuller's-earth. 21 M. Redhill Junction^ and thence to London (21 M.), see R. 6. The next station beyond Tunbridge is (341/2^-) PaddockWood, whence a branch-line diverges on the left to (10 M.) Maidstone (p.34), traversing the best hop-district in the kingdom. Fkom Paddock Wood to Hawkhvrst, 12 M., branch-railway in '/•; hr. (fares 2s., Is. 3f/., iV/od.). — 472 M. Borsmonden. About 4M. to the S.W. is Lamberhurst ("Chequers), described by Cobbett, in his 'Rural Rides', as 'one of the most beautiful villages that man ever set his eyes upon'. Though situated partly in Kent, Lamberhurst was the capital of the Sussex iron industry, which lingered as long as the forest furnished charcoal enough for smelting: almost the only trace of it now preserved is in such names as Forge and Furnace Wood. About 1 M. to the S.E. is the ruined Scotney Castle; and 2 M. to the W. lies Bayham Abbey (Marquis Camden), comprizing a mansion in the Elizabethan style and the picturesque remains of the Prsemonstratensian Abbey of the' 13th cent, (shown on Mon. and Wed.). Lamberhurst and Bayham Abbey may also be visited from Tunbridge Wells (p. 36). — 6V2 M. Gondhurst. — 10 M. Cranbrook (George ; Bull), a small town with a Perp. church and an old grammar-school. — 12 M. Hmckhurst (Queen's Hotel). 42 M. Staplehurst. — 56 M. Ashford (Saracen's Head ; Kent Arms; Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms), with 10,728 inhab., is the site of the large workshops of the S.E. Railway. The parish-church has a good Perp. tower. Lines diverge here on the left to Canter- bury (see below), and on the right to Hastings (p. 41). About 31/2 M. to the N. of Ashford is Eastwell, with a beautiful park. Fkom Ashfoed to Canterbury, 12 M., railway in 72 hr. (fares 2s. 6d., Is. Id., Is. 2^l2d.). — This line descends the valley of the Slour, parts of which are very picturesque. — 2 M. Wye, with the SouthEasiern Agricultural College, opened in 1894; 7 M. Chilham (Inn), with a ruined Norman castle; 9 M. Chariham, with an interesting E. E. and Dec. church, containing some fine brasses and old stained glass. The pretty tracery in the windows of the chancel is of the pattern known par excellence as 'Kentish'. — 12 M. Canterbury, see p. 26. 60 M. Smeeth. At (64'/2 M.) Westenhanger is a farm-house in- corporating the remains of an old royal manor-house, said to have been the bower of Fair Rosamond. — 65'/2 M. Sandting Junction, for (2 M.) Hythe and (31/2 M.) Sandgate. Hythe (Seabrook Hotel; Swan), a town with 4350 inhab., has lost its significance as one of the Cinque Ports, but is now an important mili- tary station, with the chief School of Musketry of the British army. It possesses an interesting P2.E. Church, with a raised chancel and a remark- able groined crypt, containing a huge collection of bones and skulls, the origin of which is doubtful. Either from Westenhanger or Hythe a visit may be paid to the (1 M. to the N.W, of Hythe) ruins oi Saltwood Castle, formerly belonging to the Archbishops of Canterbury. Near West Hythe is Stud/all Castle, an ancient Roman camp. — Sandgate (Royal Kent; Royal Norfolk; Sea View) is a small watering-place, with one of the coast castles built by Henry VIII. Beyond Westenhanger Saltwood Castle (see above) comes into view to the right. At (69 M.) Shorncliffe Camp is a permanent mil- itary camp, with accommodation for 5000 men ; the huts are visible to the right. Line to Canterbury, see p. 32. — Beyond (70 M.) Radnor Park the train crosses a lofty viaduct and reaches (71 1/2 M.) Folkestcne^v/lieiice a short branch-line leads to Folkestone Harbour. to Dover. DOVER. 2. Route. 1 5 Folkestone. - Hotels. Leas, on the promenade of that name, new: •Royal Pavilion, near the harbour, R. & A. frum As. 6t?., B. 2«., I), bs. \ West Cliff; Qceen's, Sandgate Road; M£tropole, new; Wampach's, R. 33., B. 2s., D. 4s. ; Hundeet'3, Bouverie Road. — Clarendon, commercial; Rose. — Boarding Houses and Private Hotels. — Central Cafi, Sandgate Road. Folkestone, a cheerful and thriving seaport and watering-place, is an ancient town with 23,700 inhab., in a romantic situation. Mail -packets start here daily for Boulogne. Folkestone was the birthplace of Dr. William Harvey (1578-1657), discoverer of the circulation of the blood, to whom a monument was erected here in 1881. The Parish Church occupies the site of the old priory-church of St. Eanswith, founded in 1095, but has been to a great extent rebuilt. The old Castle has almost entirely vanished. The favourite promenades are the Lees, a grassy expanse on the top of the cliff (fine views ; band ; hydraulic lift from the beach) ; the Neiv or Victoria Pier (band); and the Pleasure Gardens, with a large glass pavilion containing a very good little Theatre. The walk along the beach to (13/^ M.) fiandgute (see p. 14) is very pleasant, and longer excursions may be made to Dover, Hythe, Saltwood Castle, etc. The Sugar Loaf and other chalk-hills to the N. also afford pleasant objects for a walk. Facilities are also afforded for circular trips to Boulogne, Calais, etc. Between Folkestone and Dover the railway is carried through the chalk-cliffs by numerous cuttings and several long tunnels, the last of which {^l\ M.) passes under the Shakespeare Cliff (j^. 16). — 77 M. Dover town. The boat-trains run on to the Admiralty Pier, where the steamers for the Continent start. Dover. — Hotels. Lord Warden Hotel, near the Pier and Railway Station, a large house with a view of the sea, R. & A. from os., B. 2 4s., L. frum 2s. 6t7., D. 5s. 6t/. ; *DovER Castle, King's Head, both in Clarence St., with a view of the harbour; Grand, near the Parade. R. &; A. from as., D. 4s. 6d.: Shakespeare, Bench St., well spoken of; Harp, near the harbour, R. & A. 3s. 6c?.; Esplanade, facing the sea; Antwerp, Market Place, commercial; Royal, Clarence St.; *Royal Oak, near the rail, stat., commercial. Porter from the station to the steamer or the town, each package under i41bs. 2d., over 14lbs. 4d. ; from the steamer to the station or to\Mi, including detention at the custom-house, under 561bs. Qd., over 56lb3. Is. Steamers to Calais and to Ostend thrice daily (p. xix). Cabs. To or from any part of the town, for 1st class cabs (drawn by horses) Is. Qd., for 2nd class cabs (drawn by ponies, mules, or asses) Is.; tu or from the Castle or Heights 2s. 6d. ; per hour 2s. %d. or Is. 8o?., each addit. !/•-' lir. Is. 3d. or lOd. ; for each article of luggage 4d. Post Office, Northampton St., on the N. side of the inner harbour. Sea-Baths, at the E. end of the Marine Parade. Dover, the Roman Dubrae, and the first of the Ciuque Ports, is finely situated on a small bay, bounded by lofty chalk-cliffs, which are crowned with barracks and fortifications. Near the centre of the bay the line of cliffs is broken by the narrow valley of the Dour, on the slopes of which great part of the town is built. Its shel- tered situation and mild climate render Dover a favourite bathing- place and winter-resort. The population, including the garrison, is about 38,500. 1 6 Route 2. DOVER. From London In tlie Eoman and Saxon periods Dover was a place of comparative insignificance, but after tte Xorman Conquest it became a harbour and fortress of considerable importance. In the reign of King John (1216) Dover Castle offered a long, obstinate, and successful resistance, under Hubert de Burgh, to the combined forces of the Dauphin Louis and the re- volted barons. It was off Dover that the Armada received its first serious check in July, 1588. At the opening of the Civil War Dover Castle was garrisoned by the Royalists, but it fell into the hands of the Parliament- arians by stratagem in 1642. Charles II. landed here in 1660. On the height to the E. of the town rises *Dovek Castle (375 ft. ahove the sea), to which visitors are freely admitted, except to the underground works, for which a special pass is necessary. This fast- ness, originally founded by the Romans and afterwards strengthen- ed and enlarged by the Saxons and Normans, is still kept in repair as a fortress. The remains of the Roman Pharos and the Church of St. Mary de Castro, an almost unique specimen of a Roman-British edifice (restored ; roof modern) , are interesting. Splendid view of the town and harbour , especially from the top of the Keep, built by Henry II. (92 ft. high; walls 23 ft. thick). The coast of France, 21 M. distant, is visible in clear weather. The old towers of the castle bear the names of the various Norman Governors. See 'The Church and Fortress of Dover Castle', by Rev. John Puckle (illus., Is.). Among the smaller objects of interest in the Castle are 'Queen Eliza- beth's Pocket Pistor (near the edge of the cliff), a brass cannon, 24 ft. long, cast at rtrecht in 1544, and presented by Charles V. to Henry VIII.; a Norman loophole in the groundfioor of the keep; a well in the top of the keep, 300ft. deep; and an old clock, dating from 1348. The principal feature of the new fortifications connected with the old castle is Fort Burgoyne, which stands on the hill to the N.W., beyond the Deal road, and commands the landward approaches. — On the cliffs to the E. of the castle is a large Convict Prison. The Haeboub, of Dover consists of a large outer tidal basin and two spacious docks. From the W. side projects the Admiralty Pier, a favourite promenade, whence the continental mail-packets depart. This huge structure is 780 yds. long and forms one arm of a har- bour of refuge, intended to be one of the most extensive in the kingdom. The fort at the end mounts two 81-ton guns. The found- ation-stone of a commercial harbour was laid and a Promenade Pier built in 1893. The Western Heights are also strongly fortified and afford exten- sive views. They are conveniently reached from Snargate St. by the so-called 'Shaft', which is ascended by a spiral staircase with 480 steps. On the Heights are large Barracks, the foundations of a Pharos, and an old circular church, known as the Knights Tem- plar Church. — Farther to the W., separated from the Western Heights by a deep valley , is Shakespeare Cliff, rising sheer to a height of 350 ft. ; it takes its name from the well-known passage in 'King Lear' (iv. 6). — Still farther on are the works in connection with the projected Channel Tunnel. A vertical shaft has been sunk here and the tunnel excavated for about 2200 yds. under the sea in the direction of the Admiralty Pier. to Dover. BROMLEY. 2. Route. 17 The Maison Dieu Hall , erected by Hubert de Burgh (p. 16) ill the first half of the 13th cent, as a pilgrims' hospital, has re- cently been restored, and is now incorporated with the new Town Hall in Biggin St., on the N. side of the town, near the Dour. The modern stained-glass windows illustrate scenes in the history of Dover. Adjoining the municipal buildings are the Public Baths. — The churches of *St. Mary and Old St. James are both ancient and exhibit some features of interest. In Strond St., near the Pier, is Trinity Church. — Near the Priory Station (see p. 32) are some remains of the old Benedictine Priory of St. Martin (1132"), now incorporated in the buildings of Dover College ; they include the Refectory, a good example of plain Norman work, and a Gate- house. The Museum (daily, 10-4, except Thurs. and Sun.), in Market Square, contains antiquities and objects of natural history. Pleasant walks may be taken along the shore from Dover in both di- rections, either westward to (6 M.) Folkestone, via the Shakespeare Cliff (p. 16), or eastward by St. Margaret's Bay (Granville Arms), with a fine Norman church, and the South Foreland to (9 M.) Deal (comp. p. 25). The geologist will find much to interest him in the formation of the cliffs. The A'orth Fall Footpath, a path leading through a tunnel from the E. end of the town to the top of the cliff, is closed when rifle- shooting is being practised in the North Fall Meadow. — Other walks may be taken to Whilfeld, 3V2 M. to the N., with an ancient church restored in 1894; and to St. Radegund's Ahhey, 3 M. to the N.W. ; the ruins are those of a Prsemonstratensian foundation dating from the end of the 12th century. — During summer numerous cheap excursions are arranged to Canterbury, Hastings, Ramsgate, etc.; also a circular tour to Calais, Boulogne, and Folkestone. b. London, Chatham, and Dover Railway via Canterbury. 78 M. Railway in 2-31/2 hrs. (fares the same as by the South Eastern Railway, p. 12). The trains start from Victoria, Holborn Viaduct, Jliudgate Hill, and St. Paul's (see Baedeker^s London). The line from Victoria unites with that from Holborn Viaduct^ Ludgate Hill, and St. PauVs at (31/2 ^1-) Heme Hill. The train passes through a long tunnel below the grounds of the Crystal Palace (see Baedeker s London). 7 M. Penge; 8^/4 M. Beckenham. 103/4 M. Bromley (White Hart; Bell), a town of 21,685 inhab., pleasantly situated on the Ravensbourne, derives its name from the broom that still flourishes in the neighbourhood. It contains an old palace of the Bishops of Rochester, now a private residence, and a college, or alms-house, founded 200 years ago for the widows of cler- gymen. In the church is the tomb of Dr. Johnson's wife ('Tetty'), with a Latin inscription by her husband. A pleasant walk may be taken to (3 xM.) Chislehurst (p. 12) and (6V2 M.)Eltham (p. 33). About 2V2 M. to the S. of Bromley and 1 M. from the railway (to the right) is Hayes Place, where Lord Chatham died (1778) and William Pitt (1759-1806) was born. It was here that Benjamin Franklin visited Lord Chatham in 1775 before the latter's famous speech on the American question. Visitors to Hayes should prolong their walk to (2 M.) Keston Common, where there are the remains of an extensive Roman settlement, known as Caetar's Camp. In the park of the neighbouring mansion of Holwood is the 'Emancipation Oak\ beneath which William Wilberforce is said Baedeker's Great Britain. 4th Edit, 2 18 Route 2. ROCHESTER. From London to have announced to Pitt his intention of beginning his parliamentary agitation for the abolition of slaverj'. From Beckenham onwards the line traverses the fair and fertile county of Kent , where the extensive Hop Gardens soon become one of the characteristic features of the scenery, presenting an espe- cially picturesque appearance in August and September, when thousands of hop-pickers are employed in gathering the beautiful golden blossoms. Kent is also famed for its fruit, especially for its apples and cherries. The S. E. part of the county, known as the Weald of Kent, is particularly fertile. The hop-picking season is very short and requires the employment of far more labour than the local resources can supply. Large numbers of men, women, and children therefore come down from London and other towns to help, and 'hopping' affords a much prized annual outing to thousands of dwellers in the slums. The hops are dried in the 'oast houses', the curious, extinguisher-like ventilators (or cowls) of which are so conspicuous among the gardens. The best gardens are round Maidstone, and the most delicate variety of hop is the 'golding' of E. Kent. Hops were introduced into England from Flanders about the beginning of the 15th cent, and now occupy about 55,000 acres of English soil, nearly two- thirds of which are in Kent. A curious distinction between the 'Men of Kent', to the W. of the Medway (who claim the superiority), and the 'Kentish Men', to the E. of it, has been maintained down to the present day, and is generally re- ferred to the belief that the former were the original inhabitants of the country, or to the determined resistance they offered to William the Conqueror on his march to London after the battle of Hastings. 12 M. Bickley. — 143/4 M. St. Mary Cray, with a large paper- mill and a Perp. church containing some good brasses. This is one of four contiguous parishes taking their surname from the small river Cray. At St. PauVs Cray, 2/4 M. to the N., is an interesting E.E. church, with a shingle spire. — From (171/2 M.) Swanley Junction a branch-line diverges on the right to (8 M.) Sevenoaks (p. 13) and Maidstone (p. 34). Within easy reach of (2OV2 M.) Far- ningham Road are the interesting old churches oiHorton Kirhy (3/4 M. to the S.E. ; E. E.) , Farningham (Lion Inn; IV2 M. to the S.), Sutton-at-Hone (IV4 M. to the N.), and Darenth (2 M. to the N.; early-Norman, with Roman bricks). A large Roman Villa has re- cently been discovered at Darenth. Beyond Farningham Road a branch-line diverges to (41/2 M.) Southfleet, (6V2 M") Rosherville, and (7 M.) Gravesend (see Baedeker's London). 23 M. Fawkham; 251/0 M. Meopham, with a large Decorated church (to the left); 27 M. Sole Street. The castle and cathedral of Rochester now soon come into view on the right, beyond the Medway. — 33 M. Rochester Bridge (Strood). Strood, on the left bank of the Medway, is a suburb of Rochester, with which it is connected by a handsome iron bridge, constructed in 1850-56 on the site of a much earlier bridge of stone. Below are the two railway-bridges. 331/2 M. Rochester [Crown; Victoria ^' Bull; King's Head, all three in the High St.) is a very ancient city, with a pop. of 26,309. Rochester was inhabited successively by the Britons, under whom its name was Doubris; by the Romans, who called it Durobrivae ; by the to Dover. ROCHESTER. 2. Route. 19 Saxons, whose name for it, Hrofesceastre (perhaps a corruption of Rufiis?), is the rugged prototype of its modern form; and by the Normans. It was made a bishop's see early in the 7th century. It was at Rochester that James II. embarked in disguise on his flight in 165-8. On crossing the bridge -we turn to the right into the Esplanade., from which we enter the castle-grounds, now laid out as a public garden. The present *Castlb , standing conspicuously on an emi- nence, was built in 1126-39 by William Corbeil , Archbishop of Canterbury. The square Keep, 104 ft. in height, which now alone remains, along with the outer walls, is a fine specimen of Norman architecture, and commands an extensive view (adm. 3d.). To the E, of the castle rises the Cathedral, a building of con- siderable interest. St. Augustine founded a missionary church on this site about the year 600 and consecrated the first Bishop of Rochester in 604. At the time of tlie Conquest, however, this church was in a completely ruinous condition, and Gundulf, the second Norman bishop, architect of the White Tower at London, undertook the erection of a new church, which was completed and consecrated in 1130, Gundulf also replaced the secular clergy of the old founda- tion by a colony of Benedictines. This church was afterwards partly destroyed by fire, and the choir and transepts were rebuilt in the E. E. style by Prior Wiiliam de Hoo (1201-27), who is, perhaps, identical with English William of Canterbury (p. 28). The Cathe- dral was restored in 1825, in 1871-77, and (W. front and towers) in 1888-93. The internal length of the Cathedral is 306 ft., breadth of nave and choir 68 ft., across the W. transepts 120 ft. In plan it resembles Canterbury Cathedral, having double transepts, a raised choir, and a spacious crypt. The chief external features are the W, front (Norman), with its fine recessed doorway; the so-called Gun- dulf's tower, in the angle formed by the N.W. transept and the choir; and the mean central tower, erected by Cottingham in 1825. The figures of Henry I, and Queen Matilda (or Henry II. and Queen Margaret) at the sides of the W. doorway are two of the oldest English statues now extant. Interior (daily services at 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. in winter and 5.30 p.m. in summer; crypt and choir shown by the verger, small fee). The Nave is Norman in style, except the two easternmost bays, where the junction between the Norman and later work is eflected in a way more curious than beautiful. The triforium arches are elaborately adorned with diaper patterns and have the peculiarity of opening to the aisles as well as to the nave. The W. window and the clerestory are Perpendicular. The W. Transepts' are in the E. E. style, the N. being the earlier and richer. In the S. transept are the quaint monument of Richard Wattx (see p, 20) and a brass tablet to the memory of Charles Dickens (d. 1870), who lived at Gads Hill, near Rochester (p."21). The chapel adjoining this transept on the W. was built as a Lady Chapel in the Perp. period. From the transepts we ascend by a flight of steps to the E. E. Choik, The statues on the W, side of the Choir ScrefiU were placed as a memorial of Dean Scott (1811-87), joint-compiler ofLiddell and Scott's Greek Lexicon. The stalls are new, but some of the old misereres have been preserved. The tiled pavement was constructed after old patterns. Opposite the modern bisliop's throne is the fragment of an old mural painting of the Wheel of Fortune. In the N. Choir Transept is the tomb of St. William of 2* 20 Route 2. ROCHESTER. From London Perth (13th cent.), a Scottish baker, murdered near Rochester when on a pilgrimage to Canterbury \ this tomb afterwards became a frequented pil- grim-resort and a source of great wealth to the cathedral. Adjacent is the tomb of Bishop Walter de Merton (d. 1277), founder of Merton College, Oxford (p. 230). To the E. of this transept is Bishop Warner's Chapel, in the archway between which and the presbytery is the beautiful effigy of Bishop John de Sheppey (14th cent.), discovered behind the masonry here and repainted in 1825. The windows in the S. Choir Transept are memorials of Gen. Gordon, Capt. Gill (Professor Palmer's companion in his ill-fated expedition to the Sinaitic Desert in 1S82), and other officers of the Eoyal Engineers. A plain stone coffin in the Sacrarium , or E. end of the choir, is shown as that of Bishop Gnndulf (p. 19). The great glory of the choir, however, is the beautiful Dec. "Doorway in the S. E. angle, leading to the Chaptee House (copy in the Crystal Palace; s&e Baedekers London). The figures at the side represent the Synagogue and the Church; originally both were female figures, but the latter was mistakenly restored as a bishop in 1S30. The Chapter House contains the Library. The *Crtpt, reached by a flight of steps adjoining St. Edmund's Chapel, on the S. side of the choir, is^ one of the most extensive in England. The W. end belonged to Bishop Gundulf s church and is very plain in style. A fragment of the old Priory of St. Andrew, coeval with the Cathedral, is preserved in the garden of the Deanery, to the E. Three of the old o:ateways of the cathedral-precincts still remain, the most important of which is the Prior s Gate to the S. Turning to the S. (left) on leaving the Cathedral, passing through the Prior's Gate [see above), and again turning to the left, we have to the right the wall enclosing the old Grammar School, founded hy Henry VIII. We next turn to the right and pass through a small gate into the Vines Recreation Ground, formerly a vineyard attached to the priory. On the N. (left) side of this are some remains of the old city-wall, and at its S.E. end is Restoration House, a picturesque redhrick mansion with many windows, where Charles II. passed a night on his return to England in May, 1660. From this point Crow Lane leads to the left to Eastgate, reaching it a little to the left of Eastgate House, an interesting Elizabethan structure, about to be converted into a public library and museum. It has been identified with the 'Nun's House' in 'Edwin Drood". Proceeding to the W, along the High Street we soon pass (on the right) the Watts' Charity House, founded in 1579 by Richard Watts for 'six poor travellers, not being rogues or proctors', and described in Dickens's 'Tale of the Seven Poor Trav- ellers'. — On the other side of High St., nearer the bridge, Is the old Bull Inn (now Victoria ^^ BuW), extolled by Mr. Alfred Jingle ('good house -nice beds'). — Satis House, the residence of Richard Watts, situated to the S. of the castle, is said to owe its name to the gracious praise of its accommodation by Queen Eliza- beth , who stayed here on her visit to Rochester; the house has, however, since been rebuilt. In summer pleasant steamboat- excursions on the Medway (pier just above the bridge) mav be made from Rochester to (11 M.) Sheerness (p. 22) and (IS 31.) Southend (p. 459), at the mouth of the Thames, affording good views of Cpnor Castle, Chatham Dockyards, etc. Small boats may be hired at the Esplanade; charge to (3 M".) Upnor Castle (p. 22), about 3s. to Dover. CHATHAM. 2. Route. 21 About 21/2 M. to the N. W. of Strood, on the road to Gravesend, is Gad's Hill (Talstafif Inn), the scene of FalstafTs encounter with the 'men in buckram' (Henry IV., Part I., ii. 4) and also mentioned by Chaucer. It commands an extensive view. Gad's Hill Place, the residence of Charles Dickens (who died here in 1870), is an old-fashioned red-brick house near the inn. In the 'Wilderness', reached by a tunnel below the road, are some magnificent cedars. About 4 M. to the K. are the ruins of Cooling Castle, the home of Sir John Oldcastle , the supposed prototype of Fal- stafiF; Cooling Marshes are the scene of the opening incidents in Dickens's 'Great Expectations'. A very favourite excursion from Rochester is that to Cobham Hall, which lies about 5 M. to the W. of the town and IV2 M. to the N. of Sole Street station (p. 18). Walkers ascend Strood Hill and turn to the left at the top, into Woodstock Road; at the end of W^oodstock Road the lield-path to Cobham diverges to the right. *Cobham Hall, the fine seat of the Earl of Darnley, lies in the midst of a magnificent park, 7 M. in circumference. (Tickets of admission to the house, which is open to visitors on Fridays from 11 to 4 only, may be obtained from Caddel & Son, 1 King Street, Gravesend, from Wildish, 49 High Street, Rochester, or from C. Snoad, Cobham, price is. •, the proceeds are devoted to charitable pur- poses.) The central portion of this fine mansion was built by Jnigo Jones (d. 1653) ; the wings date from the 16th century. The interior was restored during the present century. The fine collection of pictures includes a ■^Portrait of Ariosto and 'Europa and the Bull by Titian, *Tomyris with the head of Cyrus by Rubens, and examples of Van Dyck, Lely, Kneller, etc. — The church of the village of Cobham, at the entrance to the park, is celebrated for its splendid array of brasses (14-16th cent.). The village inn is the 'Leather Bottel', in which Mr, Tracy Tupman sought solitude and solace after the unhappy issue of his affaire de coeur. Matthew Arnold lived at Pains Hill Cottage from 1873 till his death in 1888. A good view is obtained from * Windmill Hill, the path to the top of which is reached by crossing the bridge, turning to the right, passing the S. E. Railway Station on the left, and crossing the canal locks, "Walkers may reach Maidstone (p. 34), 8 M. to the S., by a road lead- ing through luxuriant hop-gardens (railway, see R. 3). About 41/2 M. from Rochester we pass Kits Cot/j House (p. 34); those who do not dread a slight detour should descend thence to (IV2 M.) Aylesford (p. 33) and follow the Medway to (3 M.) Maidstone. 34 M. Chatham (Sun, close to the pier; Mitre; Rail. Refresh- ment Rooms) is continuous with Rochester, though its bustling and noisy streets form a striking contrast to the old-fashioned quiet of the latter. It contains 59,400 inhah., and is one of the principal naval arsenals and military stations in Great Britain. Much of the town is irregularly and badly built. The 'Lines' which enclose the dockyard and military establishments are often the scene of mili- tary manoeuvres, reviews, and sham-fights, but for defensive pur- poses have been superseded by a series of outlying detached forts. There are also strong forts on the Medway. In 1667 the Dutch fleet under De Ruyter ascended the Medway as far as Chatham, doing, however, no harm to the town. A Statue of Lieut. Waghorn (1800-1850), one of the chief advocates and promoters of the over- land route to India, a native of Chatham, was erected here in 1888. The * Royal Dockyard (^didm. 10-1.30; special permission neces- sary for the ropery, machine-shops, and foundries; foreigners only through their ambassadors), founded by Queen Elizabeth, extends along the Medway for nearly 3 M., and embraces an area of 22 Route 2. CHATHAM. From London about 500 acres. The wet-docks, graving-docks, building-slips, wharves, etc., are all on a most extensive scale, one immense basin having a width of 800 ft. and a quay frontage of 6000 ft. The largest vessels in the navy can be built and fully equipped here. The metal mill, for making copper sheets, bolts, etc., is particularly interesting. From 3000 to 5000 workmen are employed in the dockyard, according to the business in hand. The Melville Hospital is a huge establishment for sailors and marines. The barracks for the Royal Marines here are very spacious. The military features of Chatham are nearly as conspicuous as the naval. It is the depot for a large number of infantry regiments, and about 6000 soldiers are usually in quarters here. The artillery barracks are very extensive. Chatham is also the headquarters of the Royal Engineers, with the School of Military Engineering. In front of the Royal Engineers' Institute is a bronze Statue of Gen. Gordon (d. 1885), seated on a camel, by E. Onslow Ford, erected in 1890. Troops bound for India usually embark at Chatham. The best view of Chatham is obtained from Fort Pitt, above the railway-station, which contains a large military hospital and an interest- ing museum. On the opposite side of the Medway, farther down, stands Upnor Castle, built in the reign of Elizabeth, and afterwards used as a powder-magazine. Two tunnels. 35^/2 ^' New Brompton. To the left are seen the Brompton Lines. On the same side is GiLlingham, with an old hall of a palace which once belonged to the Archbishops of Canter- bury, now used as a barn, and a handsome Perp. church, with a very fine E. window. Gillingham is the headquarters of the re- ligious sect known as Jezreelites or the New and Latter House of Israel, which has built a 'temple' and large schools here. Gilling- ham Fort dates from the time of Charles I. This district is famous for its cherry-orchards. — 39 M. Rainham ; IV2 M. to the N.E. is Vpchurch, known for its deposits of Roman pottery. The line now runs parallel with the highroad , the Roman Watling Street. — 41 '/qM. Newington, with a church containing mediaeval brasses. — 441/2 M. Sittingbourne (Bull ; Lion ; Rail. Refreshment Rooms), a brick-making town, formerly visited by pilgrims on their way to Canterbury and by kings on their way to the Continent. Sittingbourne is the junction of a branch-line to (41/2 M.) Queenborough, the starting-point of the steamers to Flushing, and (7 M.) Sheerness (Foun- tain, well spoken of; Wellington), an uninteresting town (13,850 inhab.) at the mouth of the Medway, with strong fortifications and a dockyard established in the reign of Charles II. Queenborough was so named in honour of Queen Philippa, wife of Edward III., but a castle built here by that monarch has vanished. A walk may be taken along the cliffs from Sheerness to (3 M.) Minster-in-Sheppeii . with the church of SS. Mary and Saxburga, founded about 664 and claiming to be the oldest abbey church in England. The building, restored in the 12th, 14th, and 15th cent, and finally in 1881, still retains some Saxun features. It contains several interesting tombs, including that of Sir Robert Shurland, whose story has been commemorated in the 'Ingoldsby Legends' ('Grey Dolphin'). 52 M. Faversham, pronounced Fevversham (Ship^ Rail. Rfmt. to Dover. MARGATE. 2. Route. 23 Rooms)^ an ancient town with 10,500 inhab. , was once the seat of a famous abbey, where King Stephen, his wife Matilda, and his son Eustace were buried. The parish-church is a fine E. E. build- ing, with curious old paintings and carvings. Faversham is the junction of the branch-line to Margate and Ramsgate (see below). From Faversham to Margate, 22 M., railway in ^/^ hr. (fares 3s. 8d., 28. 4d., is. lOd.); TO Ramsgate, 27 M., in 1 hr. (fares As. 6d., 2s. lOd., 2s. 3d.}. Fares from London to Margate or Rams- gate 15s., lOs. 6d., 68. 1d.\ return 22s. 6cZ., 16s., 10s.; special cheap fares in summer. — This line runs to the E. along the coast. 6V2 M. Whitstable (Bear and Key), celebrated for its 'nat- ives', considered the finest oysters in England. — 10 V2 ^I- Heme Bay (Dolphin; Pier; Cunnaught), a small watering-place with two piers and a fine esplanade. Steamers ply hence to London in sum- mer and a coach runs to (7^ ^ M.) Canterbury (p. 26). An excursion may be made to the E. along the cliffs to (.351.) Reculver (KiH(/ Ethelbert Inn), the Roman Eegulbium, cue of the fortresses erected to defend the channel then separating the district known as the Isie of Thanet from the mainland. Some remains of the castrum still exist. King Ethelbert afterwards had a palace here, and still later a Christian church rose on its site. The church was taken down in 1804, but its two towers, known as 'The Sisters' and originally erected, according to tradition, by an Abbess of Faversham, to commemorate the escape of herself and her sister from drowning, were restored by the Trinity Board as a landmark for seamen. The sea is here steadily encroaching on the land. Both (187-2 M.) Birchington (Bungalow Hotel; Sea View), with the grave of Dante Gabriel Rossetti (d. 1882 ; memorial window in the church), and (20 M.) Westgate-on-Sea {Be&ch Konse ] AVest- cliffe; St. Mildred's) are also frequented for sea-bathing. 22 M. Margate ( York; Cliftonville ; Metropole; Queen's^ R. & A. 4s., B. 2s., D. 5s.; Hlyhcliffe; Nayland Rock; White Hart; numer- ous private hotels, boarding-houses, and lodgings; Railway Re- freshment Rooms)., one of the most popular, though not one of the most fashionable watering-places in England, is situated on the N. coast of the Isle of Thanet. Pop. 18,400. Its sandy beach is admirably adapted for bathers, and the Jetty (1240 ft. long), the Pier (900 ft.), and the Marine Parade afford excellent promenades. Its other attractions include a Hall-by-the-Sea (concerts), a Theatre, a Marine Palace and Baths^ a Grotto (adm. 6d.), etc. On Saturdays and Sundays, in the season, both Margate and Ramsgate (p. 24) are iincomfortably crowded with excursionists from London, brought in thousands by railway and steamer. The Church of St. John is a Norman edifice restored. On the cliffs a little to the W. is the Royal Sea-Bathing Infirmary, founded in 1791. In summer steamers ply daily from Marinate to Ramsgate and to Lon- don (return-fare Ss. 6t/.), and thrice weekly to Boulogne and to Ottemi. Coaches ply to (4V'2 M.) Ramsgate and (16 M.) Canterbury (p. 26), while numerous special trains (S. K. R.) run to Canterbury in time for the daily services. The walk to Ramsgate along the cliffs (about 6 M.) is a 24 Route 2. RAMSGATE. From London very pleasant one. On the way we pass (3 M.) Kingsgate (Inn), so named because Charles 11. and the Duke of York landed here in 1683, with a modern castle. About 1/2 BI. farther to the S. is the North Foreland^ the Promontorium Acantium of the Romans, off which the English fleet was defeated by the Dutch in 1666. Visitors are admitted to the Lighthouse (small gratuity). Broadstairs (see below) is IV4 M. farther on. — Other walks may be taken to the old mansion of Dandelion and the village of Oavlinge, 2 M. to the W. ; to Westgate (p. 23) •■, to Quex, Acol, Minster (51/2 M.), Salmstone Grange (3/4 M.), etc. The railway now crosses the isthmus, at some distance from the sea, reaching the coast again at (25 M.) Broadstairs (Grand ; Albion; Balmoral), a quieter watering-place than Ramsgate or Margate, named from the breadth of its 'stair', or gap in the cliffs, affording access to the sea. The old flint arch in Harbour St., called York Gate, was erected to protect this passage. Broadstairs was a favourite resort of George Eliot and Charles Dickens ; the residence of the latter is named Bleak House. About 1 M. inland is the pretty little village of St. Peter s, containing a church of the 12th cent., with a fine flint tower added in the 16th century. — Tunnel. 27 M. Ramsgate C^ Granville, East Cliff, with good Turkish and other baths, R. & A. from 4s. 6d., B. 2s., D. 5s. Qd.-, Al- bion; Royal; Royal Oak; Bull; Railway Refreshment Rooms), a bathing-place and seaport with 24,680 inhab., which maybe de- scribed as a somewhat less Cockneyfied edition of Margate. In the height of the season (July and Aug.), however, it is overrun by nearly as many excursionists , and George Eliot calls it 'a strip of London come out for an airing'. The N. sands, extending towards Broadstairs, are beautifully firm and smooth. The port is formed by two stone piers, with a joint length of 3000 ft., and is of great importance as a harbour of refuge. There is also an iron promen- ade-pier (adm. 2cZ.). The Roman Catholic church of *St. Augustine, on the W. cliff, is perhaps, the masterpiece of the elder Pugin, whose house, tne Grange, also designed by him, is close by. The Jewish Synagogue and College were built by Sir Moses Monteflore. About IV2 M. to the W. of Ramsgate is Pegwell Bay (Inns), famous for picnics and shrimps. It may he reached either on foot or by an excursion-brake. Ehhsfleet, near the centre of the bay and about 3 M. from Ramsgate, was the actual landing-place (memorial cross) of St. Augustine and his monks, and traditionally that of Hengist and Horsa. Steamers ply regularly in summer from Ramsgate to London, Margate, Deal, and Dover, and coaches and brakes run to Margate, (17 M.) Canter- bury, Pegwell Bay, Richborough (p. 25), etc. Special trains run to Canter- bury in summer, in time for the daily services in the cathedral. — The dangerous sandbanks called the Goodwin Sands, on which several ships are still lost every year in spite of the light-ships, lie about 7 M. from Ramsgate and may be visited by sailing-boat. At low water the sands become quite firm, and cricket-matches are sometimes played on them. According to tradition these sands were once a fertile island, with a mansion belonging to Earl Goodwin, which totally disappeared during a tremendous gale, the funds intended to maintain the sea-wall having been diverted to build Tenterden church (p. 41). See ^Memorials of the Goodwin Sands\ by A. B. Gattie (1890). From Ramsgate to Deal, 15 M., railway (S. E. R.) in ^y^hr. (fares 2s. 2(i., Is. bd.,is. id.). — The first station is (1 M.) St. Lawrence (for Pegwell Bay) and to Dover, SANDWICH. 2. Route. 25 tLe next (4M.) Mi»ster-in-Thanet (Kail. Rfnit. Rooms), where the Deal line diverges to the ri-iht from that to Canterbury (see p. 32). The handsome parish-church of Minster (St. Mary's), with a Norman nave and E.E. chancel and transepts, contains some interesting old stalls and miserere carvings. The nunnery of Minster, founded by King Egbert of Kent in the 8th cent, in expiation of the murder of his cousins, was at one time of considerable importance. The high ground above Minster affords a splendid *View. Soon after leaving Minster the train crosses the Slour and passes *B.ichborough (to the right), the Roman fortress of Butupiae, constructed to command the S. entrance of the channel , the N. end of which was guarded by Regulbium (p. 23), and the principal landing-place of the Roman troops from Gaul. Incredible as it now seems , there is no doubt that Richborough was formerly close to the sea, and that a broad chan- nel, forming the regular water-route from Northern France to London, extended from Sandwich to Reculver. Ebbstleet (p. 24) also is now at a considerable distance from the sea. The deep channel made by the Stour in the otherwise shallow Pegwell Bay is a relic of this ancient water- way. The remains at Richborough are among the most interesting sur- vivals of the Roman period in Britain and should certainly be visited either from Ramsgate (5 M.) or Sandwich (2 M.), The best-preserved por- tion is the N. wall of the fortress, 460 ft. in length. Near the N.E. corner of the enclosure is ^St. Augustine s Cross\ a cruciform basement of rubble, resting on foundations of solid masonry and now believed to have support- ed a lighthouse. Many thousands of Roman coins have been found at Richborough, and also Saxon coins and other relics. 9 M. Sandwich (Bell; King^s Head; Fleur-de-Lis), one of the oldest of the Cinque Ports (p. 40), was formerly one of the most important har- bours and naval stations on the S. coast, described in the 11th cent, as '•omnium Anglorum portuum famosissiTnus\ but it is now 2 M. from the sea in a direct line, and accessible only by small river-craft. The singular cognisance of the Cinque Ports, a half-lion and a half-boat, is still every- where visible at Sandwich. It was surrounded by walls, the site of which is now occupied by a public promenade; one of the old gates, the Fisher Gate, and a Tudor tower, called the Barbican, still exist. A colony of Flemish artizans settled here in the time of Queen Elizabeth and have left their mark in the names of the present inhabitants. The most inter- esting buildings are Si. ClemenCs Church, with its Norman tower; the ^os- pital of St. Bartholomew, of the 12th cent.; the Orammar School, 1564; and St. Thomas s Hospital, founded in 1392 but rebuilt in 1864. Queen Elizabeth visited the town in 1572, and the house she occupied is pointed out in Strand Street. To the S.E. of Sandwich are excellent goHing-links. 15 M. Deal (Victoria; Royal; Black Horse; Walmer Castle; Beach House Temperance), another of the Cinque Ports, is also frequented for sea-bathing and golfing. Deal Castle, now the residence of Lord Herschell , was built by Henry VIII., like those of Sandown and Walmer, as a coast defence. Sandown Castle, where Col. Hutchinson, the Parliamentary leader (p. 438), died in 1664, has been demolished; it stood at the N. end of the town. The 'Downs", between the Goodwin Sands (p. 24) and the mainland, form an ex- cellent harbour of refuge in stormy weather; but the Deal boatmen have still no lack of opportunity of displaying the courage and skill in aiding distressed mariners for which they have so long been famous. On the S. Deal is adjoined by Walmer, with Walmer Castle, the official residence of the Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports. The Duke of Wellington died here in 1852, and the rooms occupied by him (various relics), as well as that in which William Pitt, another Lord Warden, held consultation with Nelson, are shown in the absence of the present Warden, the Marquis of Salisbury. Loicer Walmer is an important military depot, with large barracks and a naval hospital. The low shore near Deal is generally believed to have been the first landing-place of Julius Ctesar in Britain, — Deal is connected with (9 M.) Dover (p. 15) by a joint line of the S. E. R. and L. C. D. R. ; but fair walkers will tind it pleasant to go by the cliffs, passing Kingsdown, St. Margaret s Bay (p. 17), and the South Fore- land Lighthouses. 26 Route 2. CANTERBURY. From London Continuation of Main Line. Beyond Faversham the train turns to the S. E., passes (551/2 M.) Selling, and soon reaches — 62 M. Canterbury (County Hotel, new, well spoken of; Foun- tain^ R. & A. 4a. 6d., B. 2s. 6d. ; Rose; Fleur-de-Lys ; Railway Refreshment Rooms) , the ecclesiastical metropolis of England, containing 23,000 inhabitants, and pleasantly situated on the Stour, which runs through it in two main branches. It is an ancient city, with numerous quaint old houses , and has been the seat of an archbishop since the 6th century. St. Augustine was appointed Archbishop of All England, but Archbp. Theodore (668-693) was the first who obtained the practical recognition of his primacy from the English bishops , and it was not till after the murder of Thomas Becket (IITOJ that Canterbury became the undisputed centre of the religious life of England. The archbishop of York bears the title Primate of England (comp. p. 413 ). The site of Canterbury was occupied in pre-Roman times by the Brit- ish village of Durwhern Cdwr\ water) , which the Romans converted into one of the first military stations on the highroad to London, Latinizing the name as Durovernum. When the Saxons or Jxites invaded England they named it Cantwarabyrig^ or burgh of the men of Kent, whence its present name is derived. Towards the end of the 6th cent. Queen Bertha found a .small Christian church on St. Martin's Hill, and in A.D. 597 St. Augustine arrived here from Rome to convert heathen England. King Ethelbert received him with great friendliness, and embraced Christianity with 10,000 of his people, while Augustine became the first Archbishop of Canterbury. The subsequent history of Canterbury merges, through the archbishops, to a great extent in that of the countrv at large. The names of Dunstan (960-988), Lanfranc (1070-89), Anselm (1093-1109), Thomas Becket (1162-70), Stephen Langton (1207-29), Cranmer (1533-56), Pole (1556-59), Laud (1633-60), and many others are inseparably connected with English political and social history. Since the Revolution, however, the attention of the primates has been more strictly confined to ecclesiastic- al affairs. — The present archbishop is the Most Rev. Frederick Teniph. D. D., created in 1896. The income of the see is 15,000J. The archbishops have no official residence at Canterbury. The Cathedral lies near the middle of the town, about V2M' ^^ova each of the railway-stations. Emerging from the London, Chatham, ^' Dover Station, on the S. side of the town, we see in front of us the pleasure-grounds of the Dane John (Donjon), bounded on one side by part of the old city-wall ; the Dane John itself is a tumulus 80 ft. high, surmounted by an obelisk and commanding a good view. We turn to the left and then enter Castle St. to the right , where the Norman keep of the Castle , now used as gas- works, rises on the left. (At the back of the Castle, on the river Stour, stands St. Mildred's Church, containing some Roman work.) At the end of Castle St. we cross Watling Street (p. 22), which runs through Canterbury, and then follow St. Margaret's St., pass- ing St. Margarets Church , to High Street, which we reach oppo- site Mercery Lane, leading to the Cathedral. The South Eastern Station is on the W. side of the town. We first follow Station St. to the right for about 100 yds., to the point where it joins the line of streets leading straight (to the left) CAiWTERBUKY QATHEORAL, to Dover, CANTERBURY. 2. Route. 27 to High Street. We may first, however , follow St. Dunstan St. to the right, which leads in 3 min. to St. Dunstari's Church, an edifice of the 14th cent., with a square and a semicircular tower. It contains the burial-vault of the Koper family, in which the head of Sir Thomas More (d. 1535) is said to lie, placed here by his daughter, Margaret Roper. On the other side of the street is the gateway of the Ropers' mansion. Returning to the end of Station St., we now follow the street called Westgate "Without to the West Gate^ a handsome embattled structure, built at the end of the 14th cent, on the site of a more ancient one, and the only city-gate now remaining. To the left, just outside the gate, is the quaint little Falstaff Inn , with its sign hung from an iron standard. Just inside the gate, to the right, is the venerable-looking Church of the Holy Cross (rebuilt at the same time as the gate), containing an ancient font, an old panelled ceiling (chancel), and some 'mi- serere' carvings. A little farther on we cross the Stour and enter the High Street, in which, immediately to the right, is St. Bar- tholomew's Hospital , originally erected by Thomas Becket for the accommodation of poor pilgrims (visitors admitted). On the oppo- site side of the street, farther on, is the Guildhall, which contains some ancient arms and portraits of local notabilities. In Guild- hall St., here diverging to the left, is the Museum (open 10-11, free), with interesting collections of Roman and Anglo-Saxon anti- quities, natural history, and geology. We have now again reached Mercery Lane (see p. 2B), so called because it used to be devoted to the sale of small wares to the pilgrims (medallions of St. Thomas, phials of holy water, etc.). At the S. W. (left) corner stood the Chequers Inn, the regular hostelry of the pilgrims (comp. Chau- cers 'Canterbury Tales'); some remains of the old inn may be traced in the court -yard entered from High Street. A monument to Christopher Marlowe (1564-93), the dramatist, a native of Canter- bury, was unveiled near this point in 1891. From the end of Mercery Lane we enter the cathedral-precincts by Christchurch Gate, a fine late-Perpendicular structure, erected by Prior Goldstone in 1517. From the gateway we obtain a good general view of the Cathedral, with its W\ towers, its noble cen- tral tower, and its double set of transepts. The present *Cathe- dr&l ( Christchwch), which is the third church on the same site, represents architectural history extending over four centuries (1070-1495), but its general external appearance , at least when viewed from the W., is that of a magnificent building in the Per- pendicular style. 'The history of Canterbury Cathedral has been so carefully preserved by contemporary records , and these have been so thoroughly investigated by Professor Willis, and compared with the existing structure, that we may almost put a date upon every stone of this magnificent fabric; it is, therefore, our best and safest guide in the study of the architecture of that period in Eng- 28 Route 2. CANTERBURY. From London land' (Parker). It is said tliat a Christian cliurcli, afterwards used as a pagan temple, was built here in Roman-British times by King Lucius ; and that this was presented by Ethelbert, along with his palace, to St. Augustine (p. 26), who converted the buildings into a cathedral and monastery. Augustine's cathedral afterwards fell into decay and became more than once the prey of the flames and of the pillaging Danes, who carried off and murdered Archbp. Alphege in 1011; and at the time of the Norman Conquest it had almost entirely disappeared. Lanfranc (1070-89], the first Norman arch- bishop , accordingly undertook the erection of a completely new cathedral , a work which was continued by his successor Anselm and the Priors Ernulph and Conrad, and finished in 1130. The last-named completed the choir in such a magnificent style, that it was known as the 'Glorious Choir of Conrad'. The choir of this second or Norman cathedral (the church in which Becket was murdered) was burned down in 1174; and the present choir, in the Transition style from Norman to Early English, was erected in its place by the architect, William, of Sens, who may almost be said to have introduced the Pointed style into England, and his successor William the Englishman (1174-80). The old Norman nave and transepts remained intact for 200 years more, when they were replaced by the present Perpendicular structure (1378-1410), the main credit for which is generally given to Prior Chillenden (1390-1421). The great central tower, called the Bell Harry Tower, was added by Prior Goldstone in 1495. The N. AV. tower is modern, the older one having been pulled down, with doubtful wisdom, to make one to match its S. W. neighbour. The principal dimensions of the cathedral are : total length 514 ft., length of choir 180 ft. ; breadth of nave and aisles 71 ft. ; height of the nave 80 ft., of choir 71 ft. , of central tower 235 ft., of W. towers 162 ft. The Cathedral is open to visitors from 9.30 a. m. to the close of the evening-service, except during the daily services at 10 a. m. and 3 p. m. (4 p. m. in Nov., Dec, Jan., Feb.); a fee of Qd. is charged for admission to the choir and crypt. The principal en- trance is by the South Porch, built by Prior Chillenden in 1400, above which is a panel with a curious old sculpture representing the altar of Becket's Martyrdom, and a sword lying in front of it. The figures of the murderers have long since been removed from the niches, which are now, like those on the W. front , filled with modern figures of kings, archbishops, and other dignitaries con- nected with the history of the cathedral. Comp. Dean Stanley s 'Historical Memorials of Canterbury' and Williis 'Architectural History of Canterbury Cathedral'. Interior. The Nave produces an eflfect of wonderful lightness in spite of its huge proportions. It is mainly the work of Prior Chillenden (see above). The stained glass is modern, except the great W. window, which is put together from fragments of old glass, pieced out where necessary by modern additions. The monuments are of little general interest. Archbp. to Dover. CANTERBURY. 2. Route. 29 Benson (1882-96), the first Proteatant archbishop interred in the cathedral (comp. p. 30), is buried below the N.W. tower. On the arches of the piers of the great central tower may be seen the rebus of its builder. Prior Goldstone. The Nave Transepts are similar in style to the nave, though differ- ing from it and from each other in details. Paris of Lanfranc's masonry seem to have been retained as the kernel of the walls and of the piers supporting the tower. The X.W. transept is of special interest as the scene of Thomas Becket's murder on Dec. 29th, 1170. The four barons approached by the door on the W. side of the transept, leading from the cloisters, through which the Archbishop with his clerks had previously entered the church, where Vespers were being sung. Becket refused to take refuge either in the vaults or roof of the cathedral and was cut down by the murderers, standing in front of the wall (still in situ) between the chapel of St. Benedict and the passage to the crypt. What is believed to be the exact spot where he fell is still pointed out and is marked by a small square incision in the pavement. The large window of this transept con- tains figures of Edward IV. (1461-83) and his queen. ElizabethWoodville, who presented the window to the cathedral. Another window represents the life and death of Becket. To the E. of the transept, and separated from it by an open screen, is the Ladi/ Chapel (1449-68). also called the Deans' Chapel, from the number of these dignitaries buried in it. It occupies the place of fheXorman chapel of St. Benedict, mentioned above, and has a rich fan -vaulted roof. The corresponding chapel, opening from the S.W. transept, is dedicated to St. Michael and known as the Warriors' Chapel. It contains the tomb of Archbp. Stephen Langton (1207-29), the champion of national liberty against King John. Here also is the monument of Mar- garet Holland ,d.&n^\x\ev of the Earl of Kent, with her two husbands, the Earl of Somerset and the Duke of Clarence (son of Henry IV.). The *Choik, one of the longest in England (180 ft.), is elevated several feet above the nave, a peculiarity which occurs elsewhere among English cathedrals only at Rochester, the cathedral of which is evidently an imi- tation of Canterbury (comp. p. 19). The beautiful Screen between the nave and the choir is a work of the 15th cent., and is adorned with stat- ues of six English kings. The grand Norman arches, supported by circular and octagonal piers alternately, here furnish a striking contrast to those of the nave. The triforium arcade with its combination of circular and pointed arches is an excellent example of the transition from Romanesque to Gothic, and recalls, in some respects, the cathedral of Sens, with which the architect must have been familiar. The visitor will note the singular curved outline of the choir, caused by the manner in which the walls trend inward at the E. end. This is due to the fact that William of Sens, wishing to preserve the towers of St. Anselm and St. Andrew, which had survived the fire that destroyed the earlier buildings, narrowed his choir here so as to pass between them. The screens separating the choir from its aisles were executed by Prior Estria in 1304-6; they are broken at intervals by the canopied tombs of archbishops, the most conspicuous of which is that of Archbp. Chichele (141443), founder of All Souls Col- lege (p. 237). Nearly opposite is a memorial o{ Archbp. Tail (d. 1882; comp. p. 44). The reredos, altar, and archbishop's throne are modern. The organ is ingeniously concealed in the triforium, and nothing of it is visible below except the manuals. Part of the stained glass of the choir-aisles dates from the 13th century. At the W. end is a painting of Becket's Death, by Cross. This aisle incorporates some remains of the earlier Norman choir, and the triforium windows of the N. E. Tkansept are also by Prior Ernulph. At the E. end of the N. aisle is the entrance to St. Andrew's Tower (see above), the groundfloor of which is now used as a vestry. At the E. end of the S. aisle of the choir is the corresponding Tower of St. Anselm, also a survival from the older church, with a Decorated window inserted about 1335. The chapel contains the tombs of Archbps. Anselm (d. 1109; no monument), Bradtcardine (d. 1319), and Meopham (d. 1333). Above it is a small room, with a grating looking into Trinity Chapel, used by the guardian of the treasures at Becket's shrine (p. 30). Among the mom.i- 30 Route 2. CANTERBURY. From London ments in the aisle are those of Archbishops Simon of Sudbury (1375-81 ; behead- ed bv Wat Tyler), Stratford (1333-69), Kempe (1462-54), Fitz-Walter (1193-1207), and Reynolds (1313-28). From the E. end of the choir-aisles flights of steps ascend to the Trinitt Chapel, which, with the 'Corona'' behind it, is the work of William the Englishman^ 'small in body, but in workmanship of many kinds acute and honesf, who succeeded William of Sens, when that unfortunate architect was crippled by a fall from the clerestory. This was the site of the Shrine of Thomas Becket, who was canonized soon after his death and became the most popular of English saints. It was, indeed, the fame of St. Thomas that made Canterbury Cathedral, which had previously been overshadowed by the adjoining Monastery of St. Augustine, the greatest centre of interest among the ecclesiastical establishments of England. His body was interred here in 1220, and the shrine was adorned with such magnificence that Erasmus, who visited it in 1512, tells us 'gold was the meanest thing to be seen'. The shrine was destroyed, its treasures confiscated, and the body of St. Thomas burned by Henry VIII. (1538); and the only remaining trace of the shrine is the pave- ment that surrounded it, worn away by the kuees of thousands of pious pilgrims. [According to one version of the story, however, the relics were not burned but re-interred ; and some remains found below in the crypt in a stone coffin in 1888 are believed by many to be those of Thomas Becket] The Stained Olass Windows of the chapel, of the 13th cent., depict the miracles of St. Thomas. On the N. side of this chapel is the handsome marble Monument of Henry IV. (1399-1413), the only king buried in the cathedral. His tomb is shared by his second wife, Joan of Navarre. Behind the tomb is the Chantry of Henry IV. On the opposite side of Trinity Chapel is the Monument of Edward , the Black Prince (d. 1376), with a brazen effigy ; above hang the prince's surcoat, gauntlets, helmet, and shield. St. Dunstan''s Shrine used to be in the Black Prince's Chantry, where the head of the effigy has lately been discovered. Some remark- able diaper work and other remains of it are incorporated in the S. E. screen, near Archbp. Stratford's memorial. The extreme E. part of the Cathedral is formed by the beautiful chapel called the Corona, which formerly contained an altar with a frag- ment of Becket's skull. On the N. side stands the Monument of Cardinal Pole {A. 1559), the last Roman Catholic Archbishop. The Corona also contains the so-called C'/iajV of St. Augustine (13th cent), in which the archbishops sit at their installation. The entrance to the Cetpt, which is very spacious, is from the N.W. transept. This is the crypt of the early Norman church, and it has been supposed that some of its pillars may even have belonged to the original Roman church on this site. About 1576 Queen Elizabeth placed the crypt at the disposal of the French and Flemish refugees in England, and part of it, including the Black Prince's Chanirt/, is still occupied as a French church by their descendants. The unfounded tradition that the refugees erected their silk-looms in the crypt seems to be of comparatively recent date. The E. part of the crypt formed the Chapel of Our Lady Undercroft and was formerly very richly decorated. The body of Thomas Becket lay here for 50 years, and this was the scene of Henry II. 's penance. Traces of old painting have lately been brought to light in a chapel on the S. side of the crypt. It is also worth noticing that some of the capitals in the crypt are only half-carved, their execution having probably been stopped by the fire of 1174. Recent restorations in the crypt have laid bare the original floor and revealed some old paintings on the ceiling. The precincts contain some interesting remains of the monastery, originally founded by St. Augustine and re-established by Lanfranc. The Cloisters , "in the late-Perpendicular style, are entered from the N.W. transept and are in good preservation. The coats-of-arms at the intersections of the arches are those of benefactors of the cathedral. On the N. side are two fine doorways, and in the N.W. corner is a curious hatch communicating with the cellarer s lodgings. — To the E. of the cloisters is the Chapter House, or Sermon House (restored 1897), to which to Dover. CANTERBURY. 2. Route. 31 the congrefiation retired after prayers; the lower part is E.E., the upper part was built at the beginning of the 15th century. The panelled ceiling is of Irish oak. The Chapter House is adjoined on the N. by the Library, an old Norman structure (restored), containing; a collection of Bibles, Prayer Books, and MSS. Farther to the E. is the Norman Baptistery. — A pass- age called the 'Dark Entry'' (see the 'Ingoldsby Legends"), reached by steps descending from the N.E. transept, leads from the cathedral to the Prior's Gateway and the Green Court, which was formerly surrounded by monastic buildings. To the E. of it now lies the Deanery, and on the N. is the old Strangers^ Hall. The gate in the N.E. corner of the Green Court was formerly the entrance to this hall. — To the N. of the E. end of the cathedral is a passage called the Brick Walk, on the right side of which is a row of arches in an early-Norman style, belonging to the Monks'' Infirmary. At the end of the Brick Walk is an old house called the Maister Honours, formerly the state-room of the priory. To the N.W. are the remains of the old Archbishop's Palace, including a fine arched gateway in Palace Street. — Visitors who wish to enjoy the view from the top of the Bell Harry or Central Tower (235 ft.) must obtain permission from the Dean or one of the Canons in residence. At the N.W. corner of the Green Court (see above) is the King's School, founded by Archbp. Theodore (7th cent.), 'for the study of Greek', and refounded by Henry VIII, ; it numbers Marlowe (p. 27), Thurlow, Harvey (p. 15), and Robert Boyle among former pupils, and still enjoys a considerable reputation. The approach to the upper hall is by a beautiful external *Staircase, with open arcades at the sides, the only Norman structure of the kind in the country. Next to the Cathedral, perhaps the most interesting object in Canterbury is the quaint little *Church of St. Martin, the 'Mother Church of England'. It lies on the hill to the E,, 3/4 M. from the Cathedral, and is reached from Mercery Lane byBurgateSt., Church St., and Longport St. The keys are kept at No. 26 in the last, but during the day the verger is generally at the church. There is little doubt that there was a Christian church here in pre- Saxon days, which had been fitted up as a chapel for Queen Bertha, wife of Ethelbert (p. 26), prior to the arrival of St. Augustine. King Ethelbert is said to have been baptized here in the old font, the lower part of which is probably of Saxon date. An old stone cotlin is shown as that of Queen Bertha. Part of the walls, which contain numerous Roman bricks, may belong to the original church; the chancel was rebuilt in the E. E. period. The stained glass is modern. — The churchyard commands a fine view of the city. On the tomb of Dean Alford (d. 1871) is the touching epitaph: 'Deversorium Viatoris Hierosolxmam Proficis- centis' Cthe inn of a traveller on his way to Jerusalem'). On the way to St. Martin's we pass , at the corner of Longport St., one of the gates of the old *Monastery of St. Augustine, now restored and occupied as a Missionary College (adm. free after 3 p.m.; all day in vacation). It is, however, better to diverge here to the left and enter by the main *Gate (1300), a little farther down. The monastery, established by St. Augustine, was seized by Henry VIII. for a palace, and after pa?«ing through various private hands, was bought in 1844 by Mr. Beresford Hope, who converted it from a brewery into the present college, incorporating as much as possible of the old mon- astery. — On passing through the main gateway we find ourselves in a fine court, with the tasteful modern buildings of the College to the left. These include a large Library, with a valuable Oriental collection (below, an ancient crypt); a Chapel; picturesque Cloi^ttrs; and a Hall, being the 32 Route '2. CANTERBURY. Guest Hall of the old monastery, with its original oaken roof. To the right are the remains of the old Church. Within the grounds is the Kent and Canterbury Hospital. St. Augustine, King Ethelbert, and Queen Bertha were buried in the cemetery of the monastery. Among the remaining points of interest in Canterbury may be enumerated St. John's Hospital, founded by Lanfranc, in North- gate St., to the N. of the Cathedral ; St. Alphege's Church, near the W. end of the Cathedral, dedicated to the martyred archbishop (p. 28) and containing some old brasses ; St. Stephen's , with some Norman work, near the S.E. Station; the ruins of St. Sepulchre's Nunnery, where Elizabeth Barton, the 'Holy Maid of Kent', was a nun (temp. Henry VIII.), to the S. of the city; the modern Roman Catholic Church of St. Thomas, with an elaborately adorned interior ; the large Open-Air Swimming Bath, on the Stour, to the S.W. of the town, and the extensive Barracks , to the N. E. Parts of the old City Wall are visible in Broad St., to the E. of the Cathedral. About 1^/2 M. to the W. of Canterbury, on the London road, is the village of Harhledown (perhaps the 'Bob up-and-down' of Chaucer), with the Hospital of St. Nicholas, originally founded for lepers by Archbp. Lan- franc. No part of the present buildings is ancient, except portions of the church, which' has Norman pillars and arches on one side, E.E. on the other, and an open timber-roof. Fine view of Canterbury. — Bavfreston Church (see below) is 10 M. to the S.W. — Coaches to Heme Bay, Margate, and Ramsgate, see pp. 23, 24. From Canterbuet to Ramsgate, 15 M., S. E, Railway in '/z-'A li^- (fares 25. 8c?., Is. %d., is. 4d.). — At (11 M.) Minster we join the Ramsgate and Deal railway (see p. 24). From Canterbury to Shorncliffe, 18 M., railway (S. E. R.) in 3/4 hr. The first station is (1 M.) South Canterbury, close to the county cricket- ground, where the cricket-festival known as the 'Canterbury Week' is celebrated in the first week of August. The line runs through the Elham Valley. At (18 M.) Shorncliffe we join the line mentioned at p. 14 (for Folkestone and Dover). A short line runs from Canterbury to (6 M.) Whitstable (p. 23). Canterbury may also be reached from London by the S. E. Railway via Ashford (see p. 14), a somewhat longer route (TO M.-, same fares). Beyond Canterbury the train passes (65 M.) Bekesbourne and (68 M.) Adisham, with an E. E. church. From (72 M.) Shepherd's Well or Siebertsxcold the ecclesiologist should pay a visit to Barfres- ton Church (pronounced 'Barson'), a small but highly interesting Norman building, situated V/2 M. to the N. E. The walk may be continued to the S. to Waldershare, the Earl of Guilford's house and park, 2 M. to the E. of Shepherd's Well. — The train then pene- trates a long tunnel and reaches (75 M.) Kearsney, the junction of the line to Deal (see p. 25). Kearsney Abbey, the residence of the Marquis of Ely, is modern. To the N.E. , 1/2 M. from the station, is the village of Eivell, where King John had his first interview vdth Pandulf, the Pope's Legate, before resigning his crown at Dover (1213). — We now thread another tunnel, pass (77 M.) Dover Priory, and reach (78 M.) Dover Town. Passengers for the Conti- nent are carried on to the Admiralty Pier, where the steamers start. Dover, see p. 15. 33 3. From London to Maidstone. 421/2 M. South Eastern Eailway from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, and London Bridge in l'/2-2 hrs. (fares Is., 45. 3d., 3s. i^/id.; return 12<., 8«. 6d., 6s. 9d.). — The Lo.vdon, Chatham, and Dover Line to Maidstone (41 M.; same times and fares) from Victoria and Bolborn diverges froa the Rochester line at (iVh M.) Swanley (see p. 18) and runs thence via Otford (for Sevenoaks, p. 13), Wrotham (31 M.), and Mailing (p. 35). As far as (17 M.) Dart ford the South Eastern Railway has two lines, one running via (lOM.) Woolwich and the other via (9M.) Eltham, both of which are described in Baedeker 8 London. 17 M. Dartford (Bull; Victoria) is a busy town of 12,000 in- hab., with several factories and the City of London Lunatic Asyl- um. The first paper-mill in England was erected here in the reign of Elizabeth (1558-1603). The tomb of the founder is in the church, and from his crest (a fool's cap) foolscap paper derives its name. Dartford was the abode of Wat Tyler, who began his revolt here by killing the poll-tax collector (1381). We now cross the Darent and skirt the bank of the Thames. 20 M. Greenhithe , with villas and chalk-qnarries. In the river here are moored two or three training-ships. Near Greenhithe are Stone Churchy supposed to have been built by the architect of West- minster Abbey, and Ingress Abbey ^ at one time occupied by the father of Sir Henry Havelock. 22 M. Northfleet, with chalk-pits, cement- factories, a fine old church containing some monuments of the 14th cent., a college for indigent ladies and gentlemen, and a working-man's club (a con- spicuous red and white brick building). 24 M. Gravesend (Clarendon; New and Old Falcon; Talbot; Rosherville), a favourite river-resort of the Londoners, with the pop- ular Rosherville Gardens, is described with more detail in Bae- deker's London. A steam-ferry plies to Tilbury (p. 459). A branch-line runs hence through the Hoo District to (16 M.) Port Victoria, in the Isle of Grain and at the mouth of the Medway, opposite Sheerness (p. 22). — Coiham Hall lies about 4 M. to the S. (tickets, see p. 21). 28 1/2 M. Higham, IV2 M. to the S. of which is Gad's Hill (p. 21). We then pass through a long tunnel (2 M.) , with a break in the middle, and reach (31 M.) Strood (for Rochester, see p. 18). The train now runs along the left bank of the Medway, afford- ing a fine view of the cathedral and castle of Rochester. Beyond the river are the chalk-hills forming the 'backbone of Kent'. Near (34 M.) Cuxton and (36 M.) Snodland the beauty of the valley is seriously marred by the numerous chalk -quarries and lime and cement works. The scenery, however, improves greatly at — 39 M. Aylesford (George Inn), charmingly situated on the river, with its church rising high above the red-roofed cottages. This was the birthplace of Sir Charles Sedley, the poet (1639-1701). The Churchy partly of Norman workmanship, contains some interesting monuments of the Colepepper family. Baedeker's Great Britain. 4th Edit. 3 34 Route 3. MAIDSTONE. From London Aylesford (the Saxon Eglaford) is the traditional site of a great battle between the British prince Vortigern and the Saxons under Hengist and Horsa, whose direct northward march seems to have been deflected to the E. at Rochester (comp. Green's 'Making of England', p. 35). Aylesford is the best starting-point for a visit to the interesting cromlech called *Kits Coty House , which lies on the chalk-hills, IV2 M. to the N. E., close to the road from Rochester to Maidstone. The crom- lech consists of three upright stones of 'Sarsen' sandstone, each about 8 ft. high, with a fourth, 12 ft. long, lying transversely across them. Each stone weighs from 8 to IO1/2 tons. Tradition makes this monument the tomb of a British chief, and the name may mean simply the 'tomb in the wood' fU''elsh coed, 'wood"). Recent investigation seems to indicate that this was the site of a British cemetery and that the whole district was consecrated to religious uses. In a field between Kits Coty House and Aylesford is another group of monoliths known as the 'Countless Stones', from the superstition, frequently met with elsewhere, that they cannot be counted twice with the same result; and there would seem to have been a complete avenue of similar stones extending from Kits Coty House to the village of Addington (p. 35), 6 M. to the W. Aylesford is about 3 M. from Maidstone, the walk to which along the river, via (IV2 M.) Allington (see below), is very attractive, especially in the hop-picking season. Beyond Aylesford the train passes Allington Castle (see above; to the left), birthplace of Sir Thomas Wyatt, the poet (1503-42), and (41 V2 M.) Maidstone Barracks station. 421/2 M. Maidstone. — Hotels. Stak, MiTEE,High St.; Bell, "Week St., an old-fashioned house, commended in 'Pepys's Diary' ; Railway Hotel, adjoining the S.E. Station, R., A., & B. 55. 3d. — Bail. Rfint. Rooms. Railway Stations. The S. E. R. Station is at the W. end of the town, beyond the bridge; the i., C, d- D. Station is at the N. end of Week St. Maidstone (the 'town on the Medway'), the county-town of Kent, a prosperous-looking place with 32,150 inhab., is pleasantly situated on both banks of the Medway, which is here crossed by a substantial modern bridge. The chief object of interest is the formerly collegiate '^Church of All Saints ., a fine Perp. structure, of which a striking view is obtained from the bridge. It was mainly built by Archhp. Courtenay, who died here in 1396, and contains good stalls and sedilia, the interesting tomb of Wootton, first Master of the College (1417), some old monuments of county families , and an arcaded screen between the nave and chancel. Adjoining the church is the College of All Saints, established by Archbp. Courtenay and dissolved by Henry YIII. The buildings, which include a fine arched gateway and two towers, are inter- esting specimens of 14th cent, architecture. To the N. of the church is the former Palace of the Archbishops of Canterbury, now a school of art and science; and opposite, to the E. of the church, is a range of out-buildings, with a singular external stair- case, probably older than any part of the palace itself. The *Maidstone Museum, in Faith St., is installed in Chilling- ton Manor House, a well-preserved specimen of a town-mansion of the 16th cent., now flanked on the £. by the Bentlif Art Gallery and on the W. by the Public Library and the School of Science and Art. The institution, one of the most valuable provincial museums to Maidstone. LEEDS CASTLE. 3. Route. 35 in the country, contains collections of natural history, archaeology and antiquities , ethnology , pottery, and paintings, and is open free daily from 10 to 5 in summer ("Wed. 10-9), 10 till dusk in winter. Curator, Mr. Frederick James, F. S. A. Environs. The walk to AWngton, (3 M.) Aylesford, and (IV2 M.) Kits Coty House lias been described in the reverse direction on p. 34. — At West or Town Mailing, a station on tlie L.C.D. Railway, 6 M. to the W. of Maidstone, are the remains of a Benedictine abbey founded by Bishop Gundulf of Rochester (p. 19). To the S. is the so-called St. Leonard's Toicer^ the keep of a castle also erected by Gundulf (ca. lOTOj, the archi- tecture of which is, according to Parker, of earlier character than that of any keep in Normandy. At Offham Green, V2 M. to the W., are the remains of an ancient quintain. Addinglon, with some British remains (see p. 34), lies about 21/2 M. to the N.W. of Town Slallin-. — About 2 M. to the N.E. of Maidstone is Boxley Abbey, a Cistercian establishment of the 12th cent., now incorporated with a modern mansion. To reach it we follow the Rochester road to a point a little beyond CIV2 M.) Sand- ling, where we diverge to the right by a footpath skirting a small affluent of the Medway. We may return to Maidstone across Penenden Heath, famous for its ancient folkmotes and modern political meetings. The Ashford road, leading E. from Maidstone, passes (1 31.) Mote Park (to the right) and (IV2 M.) Bearsted, with a Perp. church- tower, and soon reaches (2 M.) the park of *Leeds Castle, one of the finest country-seats in Kent, dating mainly from the 13th cent., though other parts of it are more ancient and more modern. It stands in the midst of a lake, and its defences were very strong. The castle was given by William the Conqueror to the family of Crevecoeur, but it reverted to the crown about 1800, and has since passed through many hands, its present proprietors being the Wykeham-Martins, From Maidstone travellers may continue their journey by the S. E. R. branch to its junction with the main line at (9^/2 ^^O Paddock Wood, running through a rich hop-district; or they may take the L. CD. line to (I83/4 M.) Ashford (p. 14), traversing one of the prettiest parts of Kent. In the opposite direction the L.C.D. line runs tt) (10 M.) Sevenoaks (p. 12) and (^IM.) Su-anley (p. 18). 4. From London to Hastings. 62 M. South Eastern Railway from Charing Cross, London Bridge, and Gannon St. in 13/4-3 hrs. (fares 10s. Gd., 6s. Id., 6s. ^jid.; return, available for a month, 18s. 4d., 13s. 2d., 10s. id., on Wed., valid on day of issue only, 15s., 10s. (id., 6s.). There is also another and longer route (76 M. in 21/2-4 hrs.; same fares) by the London, Brighton, d- South Coast Railway from Victoria and London Bridge via Lewes and Polegate. From London to (29V2 M.) Tunhridge, see 11. 2a. The Ash- ford and Folkestone trains here turn to the E., while the Hastings train runs due south. 341/2 M. Tunbridge Wells. — Hotels. Calverley, near the S.E. Railway Station, overlooking Calverley Park; Wellingtok , Royal, Mount Ephraim. on Mount Ephraim, with view of the Common; Royal Kentish, facing the Common, and about equidistant from both railway stations, pens, from i'2s.; Molyneux Park; Spa, facing the Common; Swan, Castle, commercial. — In the vicinity: Camden, at Pemhury, 3 M. to the N. ; Hand A; Scmptre, at Southborough ("p. 37). — Bishop's Down Spa, a hydropathic establishment. — Numerous Boarding Houses and Lodgings. 3* 36 Route 4. TL'NBRIDGE WELLS. From London Railway Stations. S. E. R. Station, near the top of Higti St. •■, L. B. S. C. Station, Eridge Road, near the Pantiles. Cabs. Per mile, 1st class (1-5 pers.) 1*., 2nd class (1-4 pers.) 10c?., 3rd class (1-2 pers.) 8d.; each addit. 1/2 M, Qd., bd., 4c/.-, per hour 3s., 2s., Is. %d. Between midnight and 6 a.m. fare and a half. Luggage free. Baths in the isew Parade and at the Bishop's Down Spa; Open-Air Suimming Baths, at the foot of Quarry Ptoad. Music. A band plays in the Pantiles every day at 11 a. m., and either there or in some other part of the town in the afternoon and evening. Tunbridge Wells, one of the most popular inland Tvatering- places in England, Tivith 28,000 inhal). , is finely situated in a Mlly district on the borders of Kent and Sussex , and owes its present favour rather to its pretty surroundings and invigorating air than to its somewhat weak chalybeate springs. The springs were discovered hy Lord North ahout 1606, and Tunbridge soon became a fashionable watering-place. Somewhat later it seems to have been a favourite resort of the Puritans , who have left traces of their partiality in such names as Mount Ephraim and Mount Zion ; and it is still specially affected by adherents of the Evangelical school. The season is at its height in August and September. The most prominent architectural feature of the town is the Pantiles, or Parade, deriving its name from the earlier style of pavement. Many of the houses in the Parade are very quaint and picturesque; and it is still, as in the days of Queen Anne and the Georges, the favourite promenade of the visitors. It also con- tains many of the best shops , including several for the sale of 'Tunbridge Ware', or small articles in wood-mosaic. The Assembly Rooms and the Pump Room, with the chief mineral spring, are at the lower end of the Pantiles (water 2d. per glass, 2s. per week). Tunbridge Wells is adjoined on the W. by a breezy Common, with an area of about 170 acres; and Calverley Park is' a pleasant open-air resort within the town. The Environs of Tunbridge Wells are undulating and beautifully wooded, affording charming rambles in every direction. The soil dries quickly after rain. The favourite short walks are to the Toad Bock, on Ru'sthall Common, 1 M. to the W., and to the High Rocks (adm. 6cf.), 11/4 M. to the S. W., both good examples of the fantastic shapes assumed bv sandstone rocks in the process of unequal disintegration. A round of about 31/2 M. will include both. One of the most popular of the longer excursions is that to Pens- hurst Place (p. 13), 6 M. to the N. W., which may be reached by railway via Tunbridge (comp. p. 13). "Walkers, however, will find the route via Bidhorough very pleasant: and they may extend their excursion to Hever (p. 13) and Edenhridge (p. 13), returning from the last by train. — About 6 M. to the S.E. lies Bayham Ahley (p. 14) and about 2 M. farther on is Lamberhurst (p. 14). The return walk may be shortened by taking the train from Frant (see below). — A very pleasant round may be made as follows. We follow the road leading S* from the Wells to (2 M.) Frant, and walk thence to the W. across *£'r;d9'e Pavl- (Marquis of Abergavenny ; castle not shown), and past the * Eridge Rocks (open to visitors on Thurs.) at Eridge Green, to (2V2 M.) Eridge station. Or we may turn to the X.W. at Eridge Green and cross Broadwater Wood, either to (2 31.) Groombridge (p. 37), another railway-station, 8 M. nearer Tunbridge Wells, or to the (2 M.) High Rocks (see above). — Excursion to Bodicfhi Castle, either from Etchingham or Robertsbridge, see p. 37. to Hastings. BATTLE. 4. Route. 37 The little town of Southborough, halfway between Tunbridge Wells and Tunbridge, also possesses a chalybeate spring and is frequented by those who wish quieter and somewhat cheaper quarters. From Tunbridge "Wells to Eastbodbxe, 30 31.. railway in I1/4 hr. (fares 45. 6c?., 2s. 10c/., 2s. 2^-2(1.). — 3 31. Groombridge, the junction of lines to Three llridges (p. 46), Lewes (p. 42j, and Edenbridge (p. 37), Croy- don, and London. — 11 31. Alayfield, a village with some quaint timbered houses and an old ''Palace, of the Archbishops of Canterbury, now a nunnery (adm. 3-4). This was a favourite residence of the archbishops from Dunstan (d. 988) to Cranmer (d. looG) and dates mainly from about 1350, with later additions. The Great Hall, now the Chapel, is nearly 70 ft. long. — 221,2 31. Hailsham., 3'5/4 31. to the W. of Hurstmonceaux (p. 52); 25 M. Polegate Junction (p. 42). — 30 31. Eastbourne., see p. 42. Beyond Tunbridge Wells the train enters Sussex. 37 M. Frant; the village (*Inn) lies on a hill 1 M. to the W., on the E. edge of Fridge Park (p. 36). — 39 M. Wadhurst , with curious iron tombstones in the church and churchyard. An omnibus plies hence thrice a day to the village of Ticehurst^ which may also be reached from the next station, (447-2 M.) Ticekurst Road. 471/2 M. Etching- ham, with a fine Dec. church. — ■491/4 M. Robertsbridge (George), with the scanty remains of a Cistercian abbey of the 12th cent., 1 M. to the E. of the station. Robertsbridge is the nearest station to Bodiam Castle, which by road is nearly 5 31. off, but by the following route only 81/2 M. We follow the cart-track passing the abbey, pass through a gate at the end of it, and take the path along the right bank of the Rather. After about 1 31. we reach the highroad, which we follow to the N. for some distance, and then finish the walk by a path on the left (N.) bank of the stream. "Bodiam Castle (adm. 6rf., on Frid. Is., by tickets obtained at the iS^ational School , near the gate) is a splendid example of a 14th cent, fortress (ca. 1396), surrounded by a broad moat and possessing fine gateways, machicholated parapets, a portcullis, etc. It is nearly square in ground- plan, with circular towers at the corners and rectangular ones between them. A good echo may be awakened on the X. side. Xear the gate is the Castle Hotel, a good inn. Bodiam is a favourite excursion from Hastings (see p. 41). 551/2 M. Battle (Star; George)., an old town with 3150 iuhab., fam- ous for the abbey founded herebyWilliam the Conqueror (see below). To reach the (V2 ^^^0 abbey, we turn to the left on leaving the station and then to the right, soon skirting the wall enclosing the abbey precincts. To the right lies the Parish Church of Battle, a build- ing in the transition style between Norman and E.E., with Dec. and Perp. additions (restored). It contains a few brasses and the fine tomb of Sir Anthony Browne (p. 38), with effigies of him and his wife. In the churchyard, close to the E. end of the church, is the grave of Isaac Ingall, a servant of one of the owners of the abbey, stated on his tombstone to have died in 1798 at the age of 120. — A little beyond the church we come in sight of the abbey gateway, in the open space in front of which still remains the old ring used in bull-baiting (50 yds. from the gate). *Battle Abbey, one of the most interesting and venerable historic- al monuments in England, was founded by William the Conqueror in fulfilment of a vow made by him during the battle fought here 38 Route 4. BATTLE ABBEY. From London with Harold, the English king, in 1066. Though generally known as the 'Battle of Hastings', the battle is more accurately named after the heights of Senlac , on which William found the Saxons entrenched behind a stockade on his march from Pevensey (p. 52), and which lie a short distance to the S.E. of the town of Battle. The abbey, indeed, stands on the very spot where Harold fell. The abbey was entrusted to the care of the Benedictine Order, and the minster was consecrated in 1095. At the Reformation (1538) it was presented to Sir Anthony Browne^ Henry VIII. 's Master of the Horse, who con- verted the monastic buildings into a private dwelling-house and added the banqueting-hall. Since then it has passed through various hands, and it now belongs to the Duchess of Cleveland. The abbey is open on Tues., from 12 to 4, to visitors provided with tickets (free) obtained from Ticehurst, the bookseller, in the main street near the gateway. Visitors are conducted through the ruins in parties by a guide (who expects a small gratuity), and in the summer months the crowds of excursionists from Hastings are very large. We enter the precincts of the abbey by a fine late-Decorated ^Gate- house (1338), described by ITathaniel Hawthorne ('English Note-Books') as 'the perfect reality of a Gothic battlement and gateway, just as solid and massive as when it was first built, though hoary and venerable with the many intervening centuries'. The longer (E.) wing was formerly the almonry, while the W. wing is now fitted up as a porter's lodge. On entering the gateway we find ourselves in a large grassy court, on the E. Geft) side of which stand the abbey-buildings, the portions visible to us (named from left to right) being the Abbofs Lodge, the Porch, the Abbofs Hall, and the Library (modern). "We pass the front of the building and make our way to the Terrace, at the S. end, where we await our cicerone, and in the meantime enjoy a fine view of the battle-field, with the heights of Telham, whence the Normans first caught sight of their foe, on the other side of the valley. This terrace marks the site of the old Guest House, afterwards replaced by Sir Anthony Browne's Banqueting Hall, itself pulled down about 1750. Two turrets at the W. end and some traces of the windows and fireplaces are the only remains. From the terrace we are conducted past the "W. front of the abbey and round the_N. end of it to the old Cloisters, one fine arcade of which is still visible, forming the E. external wall of the present edifice. Farther to the E., on some- what higher ground than the rest of the abbey, lie the picturesque E. E. ruins of the "Refectory (wrongly described as the dormitory), with inter- esting vaulted chambers below, described as the Day Room, the Monks'' Parlour, and the Kitchen (perhaps the Calefactory or Scriptorium?). The last part of the ruins shown on ordinary occasions is the Abbey Church of St. Martin, which extended from the N. side of the Abbot's Lodge on the W. to a point opposite the Parish Church (outside the wall) on the E., a distance of fully 3(X) ft. The scanty remains of this large edifice consist merely of a few piers and stones at the E. end; and nearly the whole area is now a garden, containing some fine old yews and cedars. The guide points out the site of the High Altar, supposed to be the spot on which the body of Harold was found after the battle. — The Abbofs Hall, shown only in the absence ofthefamih-, contains relics of the Battle of Hastings, some good tapestry, and portraits of the Duke and Duchess of Cleveland. — The so-called 'Roll of Battle Abbey', containing a list of the Norman nobles who came over with the Conqueror, is a forgery com- posed at a time when a Norman lineage had become fashionable. The original is believed to have been burned in 1793 at Cowdray (p. 61). On leaving the abbey-gateway the tourist will find vehicles ready to take him to "Normanhurst, the handsome modern residence of Lord Bras- sey, which lies 3 M. to the "W. (fare there and back 2s. each; adm., on Tues., Is., bv ticket obtained at the Battle booksellers' or at Dorman's to Hastings. HASTINGS. 4. Route. 39 Library, St. Leonards). The house is finely situated, commanding a most extensive *View. — Those who prefer it will also generally find an op- portunity of driving to Hastings instead of taking the train. Beyond Battle the train descends towards the sea and soon reaches the (61 Y2 M.) Warrior Square Station of St. Leonards (see helow). 62 M. Hastings. — Railway Stations. Central or Hastings Station of the S. E. R., at the top of Ilavelock Road, Hastings, also used by the L. B. S. C. trains; Warrior Square Station, the St. Leonards Station of the S. E. R.; Bopeep or West Marina Station, the L. B. S. C. R. Station for St. Leonards, situated at the extreme W. end of the town, nearly 1 M. from the Victoria Hotel. — The hotels send Flys to meet the principal trains; Cab to most of the hotels is. Qd. (first-class) or is. (sec- ond-class). Hotels. *Queen's, Carlisle Parade, facing the sea, V-J M. from the rail- way-station and the pier; Marine, ALBIO^f (R. from 2s. 6d.), on the Marine Parade, farther to the E. ; Albany, Robertson Terrace, near the Queen's; Palace, a new house, to the W. of the Pier, with lifts and electric light ; Castle, Wellington Square, a little back from the sea; Rotal Oak, Castle St., commercial; Grosvenor, White Rock, pens. 85. — At St. Leonards: Rotal Victoria, Marina, R. & A. 45. Qd., B. 2s., D. 5s., facing the sea, well spoken of; Grand, Verulam Place, opposite the Pier; Eversfield, R. & A. As. 6d., B. 2, D. 5s., Alexandra, R. & A. 4s. 6d., B. 2s., D. 5s. Qd., both in Eversfield Place; Rotal Saxon, Grand Parade, all these close to the sea; Warrior House, Edinburgh, Gifford's (pens, from 7s. 6d.), three private hotels in Warrior Square. — Hydropathic Establishment, Old London Road, Hastings. — Furnished Apartments a,ni Boarding Houses in all parts of the town. Restaurants. At the Queen s Hotel, see above; Ballard, 17 Castle St. ; Addison, 32 Rock Place; Buffet at the Hastings Station. Omnibuses ply at frequent intervals from the Albert Memorial to the Victoria Hotel, Bopeep, the Alexandra Park, the top of High St., Ore, and Silverhill (fares Id.. 2d., 3rf.). Cabs. First-class cabs for 1-5 pers. 3s. per hr., each addit. 74 tr. 9d. ; per mile Is. Qd., each addit. 1/2 ^I- 9(f. ; second-class cabs for 1-4 pers. 2s. 6c/., Vj^d., Is., Qd.; no extra charge for luggage. Carriage drawn by hand or by donkey or mule, Is. per hr. for 1 pers., each addit. 1/4 hr. 3d. Pleasure Boats. Rowing Boat, per hr. 2s. 6(/., each addit. 1/2 lir. Is.; Sailing Boat, 5-lOs. per hr. according to size. Excursion in Sailing Yachts, is. each person. — An Excursion Steamer also plies in summer to East- bourne, Brighton, Dover, etc. Baths. Hastings Baths, White Rock Place, with a very large swim- ming-basin, baths l,?.-2s. 6d. ; Faulkner's Turkish Baths, adjacent, bath 2s. 6c?., after 5 p.m. Is. 9d. ; Royal Baths, at St. Leonards, opposite the Victoria Hotel; Pelham Baths, Pelham Place, Hastings; Fublic Corporation Baths, Bourne St. Bathing Places for ladies and gentlemen at several points along the beach, indicated by notice-boards. In rough weather the bathers are ad- vised not to quit their hold of the rope attached to the bathing-machines. Hastings and St. Leonards are now virtually one town with abont 60,000 inhah., in great repute as a bathing-resort and winter-residence. St. Leonards, beyond the Archway, forms the W, end of the double town and is purely a watering-place, consistingmainly of rows of well- built lodging-houses, while the easternmost part of Hastings retains the picturesque appearance of an old-fashioned fishing-town and seaport. The sea-front of 3M., along which runs a fine esplanade, is very striking, and in many respects more than holds its own with any other watering-place on the S. coast. The best view of it, with the hills behind and the ruins of the castle, is obtained from the end of 40 Route 4. HASTINGS. the Promenade Pier (adm. '2d.'), wMcli runs out into tlie sea for more than 900 ft. Other suhurhs are growing up on the hills at the "bact of the town, the most important of which is Ore, a group of pleasant villas on St. Helen's Down (stat., see p. 41). The name of Hastings is indissolubly connected witli the battle by wbicb the government of England passed from the Saxons to the Nor- mans, though it was fought at a spot 7 M. distant (p. 38). Hastings was also one of the Cinque Ports (i. e. the 'live" great ports on the S. E. coast; originally, Hastings, Dover, Sandwich, Romney, and Hythe), but its harbour has now practically disappeared. Traces of an early settle- ment here have been discovered submerged in the sea, which seems to have made great encroachments on this part of the coast. On the West Hill, above Hastings, are the ruins of the old*Castle (adm. 3d.), of the history of which little is known, though it claims William the Conqueror as its founder or restorer. The ruins are, to use Hawthorne's phrase, 'somewhat scanty and scraggling', hut the grounds in which they stand command a splendid view of the town and sea, extending on the W. to Beachy Head. A tunnel has been driven through the cliff from the sea-front , and a lift con- structed for easy access to the castle. A little to the E. of the Castle the hill is partly undermined hy St. Clemenfs Caves (adm. 6d. ; illuminated on Mon. and Thurs. after 2 p.m.), originally excavated for obtaining sand, and afterwards a resort of smugglers. Near the entrance to the caves is St. Clement's Church, one of the oldest in Hastings (Perp.; restored), whence we may proceed to the left (N.) along High Street. At the upper end of this street is the Roman Catholic church of St. Mary Star of the Sea. Close by is the old Church of All Saints, a Perp. edifice with a fine W. window. We may return hence to the beach through All Saints' St. and visit the quaint fishing quarter of Old Hastings, with its boats drawn up on the beach and its lofty black sheds for holding the nets. The fish are sometimes sold on the beach here by 'Dutch Auction', and there is also a covered Fish Market. The W. part of Hastings and St. Leonards contain little calling for special mention. In the centre of the town is the Albert Me- morial, a Gothic clock-tower erected in honour of the late Prince Consort, and in Queen's Road are the Municipal Buildings and the Gaiety Theatre. A little to the W. , in Claremont, is a Public In- stitution, presented to the town by Lord Brassey. — At St. Leonards are two handsome modern churches : Christchurch, London Road, in the E. E. style, and St. Paul's, Church Road, in the Dec. style (elab- orate interior, with marble pillars). Farther to the W., the hand- some St. Leonard's Pier, opened in 1891, projects into the sea from the Marina. "Walks. The prettiest short walk from Hastings is that to Ecclesbourne Glen, Fairlight Glen, and the Lovers" Seat (3V2 M.). The best route is the path crossing the East Hill (250 ft.; reached by steps from the Fish Market: fineview of Hastings) and then descending to (1 M.) the prettily wooded Ecclesbourne Glen. Crossing this little valley, we ascend again on WINCHELSEA. 4. Route. 41 its E. side and follow the path along the top of the cliffs to (IV2 M,) Fair- light Glen, another little wooded valley. Here we turn to the left and ascend along the W. side, rounding the head of the valley and passing the (V2 M.) 'Dripping WelT, now almost dry, 1)eyond which we continue to follow the path leading along the side of the glen towards the S.E. This soon brings us out again to the open cliff and O/2 M.) the "Lovers' Seat, a rocky ledge commanding a splendid view. Good walkers may vary the return-route by turning landward from the Dripping Well, at the head of Fairlight Glen, and ascending past a farm to OA M.) the highroad. Here we may turn to the left (below, to the right, the Hall, Fairlight) and make our way to '■Nortits Sea(\ on the top of Fairlight Down (600ft.), occupying the circular site of Old Fairlight Mill C'View). We now descend via Ore (p. 40) to Hastings. — Excursion-waggonettes ply at intervals to the farm above Fairlight Glen, allowing 1 hr. for a visit to the glen and the Lovers' Seat (return-fare is. Qd.). F^xcuRSio- Brakes ply daily in summer to (7 M.) Battle and (9 M.) Normanhurst (see p. 38; fare for the round 4s. Gd.), and this drive may be extended to Ashburnham Place (not shown), the seat of the Earl of Ash- burnham, containing some relics of Charles I. (shirt worn at his execution, etc.). — Another lovely drive may be taken to (12 M.) Bodiam Castle (p. 37), via the charming village of (ijM.j Sedlescomhe, with its interesting church, and back by Novthiam (near which is an old timbered house) and Brede. — Crowhurst, 6 M. to the N.W. and 3 M. from Battle, is another good point for a walk or a drive; it possesses the remains of an old manor-house and a gigantic churchyard-yew. — Other excursions may be made (usually by railway) to Hurstmonceaux Castle (p. 52), Pevensey (p. 52), Winchelsea (see below). Rye (see below), etc. From IIastixgs to Rye axd Asiiford, 27 M., South Eastern Railwav in 1 hr. (fares 4s. 10c/., 3s. id., 2s. 2V2f?.). — IV'2 M. Ore (p. 40). 9 M. Winchelsea (New Inn), an ancient but decayed town, formerly attached to the Cinque Port of Hastings, possesses various memorials of its former importance, the most immediately striking of which are the width and regularity of its streets. The "^Church of Sf. Thomas (Becket), an important early-Decorated structure (ca. 1300), of which the nave has long since been destroyed, contains some good monuments. A little to the S.E. of the church is the Friars, a modern mansion built with the materials of an old Franciscan monastery, of which part of the chapel (1310) remains (adm. on Mon.). Winchelsea was formerly a walled town, and three of the old gates are still standing : Pipe Well Gate, Strand Gate, and Land Gate. — IXear the sea. about halfway between Winchelsea and Rye, is Camber Castle, one of the coast-defences erected by Henry VIII. About I1/2 M. to the W. is Icklefham, with a Gorman church. 11 M. Kye (George; Cinque Ports) is another decayed seaport, ruined, like Winchelsea, by the retirement of the sea; it was also one of the secondary Cinque Ports. Its harbour is still frequented by a few vessels. The large Church, restored in 18S3, is partly Norman and partly E. F]., with windows inserted at a later date. The Ypres Tower, at the S.E. corner of the town, now the police-station, was erected as a watch-tower in the 12th cent, and is said to derive its name from William de Ypres, Karl of Kent. The only town-gate remaining is the Land Gate, on the London road. Mermaid Street is one of the most quaintly picturesque streets in England. After the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes many French refugees settled in Rye, and have left their mark on the names of the present inhabitants. At a later date it was a ureat resort of smu^iirlers. — An omnibus plies from Rye to (10 M.) Tenterden (White Lion), with a fine church, the Perp. tower of which has been held responsible for the Goodwin Sands (see p. 2i). Beyond Rye the train traverses Tfowm^y ITarsA, an extensive level tract with rich pastures. From (18 M.) Appledore a branch-line diverges on the right to Lydd , Dunjeness, and New Romney (Ship), formerly one of the Cinque Ports. There is aliu^hthouse on Dunireness Point. — 21 M. Ilam Street. 27 M. Ashford, see p." 14. 42 5. From London to Eastbourne. Newhaven. 65 M. London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway, from Victoria or London Bridge, in 13/4-31/4 hrs. (fares 10s., 6s., As.Sd.-^ return, available for a month. 17s., 11*.. 9s. 'id.; Frid. to Mon. return-tickets 15s., 10s. 6d., 6s.). — To Newhaven, 57 M., in I3/4-21/2 lirs. (fares 9s. 4d., 5s. 8rf., 4s 8d.; return, available fur a munth, 16s. 8d., 10s. 2d., 8s. 4d. ; Sat. to Mon. return-tickets 14s., 8s. 6d., 7s.). Cheap day-tickets are issued in the season at greatly reduced fares. From London to (STi/o M.) Hayward's Heath, see R. 6. At (401/2 ^I-) Keymer Junction our line diverges to the left. — 44 M. Plumpton ; 47 M. Cooksbridge. 50 M. Lewes (White Hart, opposite the County Hall; Crown, High St. ; Rail. Eefreshmt. Rooms), the county-town of Sussex, with 11,000 inhab., is a quaint old place, situated in the heart of the South Downs. It is the junction of lines to Brighton on the W. (see p. 52}, to Newhaven and Seaford (see helow) on the S., and to East Grinstead, Groombridge, East Croydon, etc. (p. 45), on the N. The old Castle dates from the Xorman period, and has a good gate- way and a well-preserved keep containing a small museum (adm. Qd.); fine view from the top of the tower. The Priory of St. Pancras, a pic- turesque ruin to the S. of the town (adm. ^d.), was founded by Gun- drada, step-daughter of William the Conqueror. Adjacent is Southover Church, with a Xorman chapel, now containing the leaden coffins of Gun- drada and her husband, William de Warrenne. The Town Hall (built 1893) contains a fine old staircase of carved oak. The Fitzroy Memorial Library was designed by Sir G. G. Scott. About 2V2 M. to the W. is Alt. Harry, where Henry III. was defeated by Simon de Montfort in 1264. Feom Lewes to Xewhaven, 7M., railway in 15-20 min. The trains go on to Newhaven TTTiar/ (London and Paris Hotel, R. 3s.. D. 3s. 6d.), whence steam-packets ply twice daily to Dieppe in 4-5 hrs. (through-tickets from London to Paris issued by this route). Newhaven (Bridge Inn), at the mouth of the Ouse, possesses a modern fort and an interesting church with a Xorman tower and apsidal chancel of the 12th century. — About 2 M. to the E. (railway) is Seaford (Seaford Bay Hotel; Esplanade Hotel), a sea-bathing and golfing resort. The li)ie now skirts Mount Caburn and Firle Beacon (720 ft.}, both of which command extensive views. 53 M. Glynde. About 21/2 M. to the S. of (571/2 M.) Berwick is Alfriston (Star), with an interesting church and a 14th cent, clergy- house (recently restored). — To the right is the '■Long Man of Wilmington', a figure, 240 ft. high, cut out on the side of the hill (p. 43); it is supposed to be of Celtic origin, perhaps the 'God of Journeying' mentioned by Ccesar, and has recently been restored. 61 M. Polegate Junction (Rail. Refreshmt. Rooms), the point of divergence for lines to Hailsham and Tunbridge Wells (p. 37), Hastings (p. 39), and Eastbourne. 65 M. Eastbourne. — Hotels. *Q,ueen"s, r. South Coast Railway, in 11/3-2 hrs. (fares 6s. lOd., 4s. 6c?., 3s. 8(Z.). To (28V2 M.) Chichester in 50-70 min. (4s. 5d., 2s. lid.. Is. 4c?.). — View of the English Channel on the left. On both sides are pleasant meadow-land and trees, with numerous windmills. The first station is [IV2 M.) West Brighton, just before whicli our line is joined by the branch from Preston Park (p. 47), while beyond diverges the branch to the Devil's Dyke (p. 51). — 6 M. Shoreham (Royal George ; Buckingham Arms), which carries on a considerable trade with the opposite coast of France. The anti- quarian will be repaid by a visit to the churches of Old and New Shoreham, in the Norman and Early English styles, dating from the time of the Crusades. There is a popular resort here called the Swiss Gardens. Feosi Shoreham to Hoksham (Guildford, Dorking)., 20 31., railway in 3/4 hr. (fares 35., 2s., Is. Sd.). — 4 31. Bramher, with a ruined castle. — 41/2 31. Steyning has a church mainly of the I2th century. About 2 31. to the X.W. is Wiston, at the foot of Cluinctonhury Ring (814 ft.), on which are traces of a Roman-British camp. — 8 31. Henfield. I21/2 31. West Grin- stead. In the park of West Grinstead House is 'Pope's Oak\ under which Pope is said to have composed the 'Rape of the Lock", while visiting his friends the Carylls. About 1 31. to the W. is Enepp Castle, a ruin 1/2 M. from which is the modern house containing portraits (Holbein, A. More, Vandyck, Lely, etc.) and a valuable topographical library. An omnibus plies "from West Grinstead to (2 M.) Cow/old., near which is the Cistercian monasterv of St. Huah (built 1873-86), said to be the largest in England. — 20 31. Horsham (p. 61). Beyond Shoreham the train crosses the wide estuary of the Adur, which is also crossed by a fine suspension-bridge (left). — At (8M.) Lancing is a large public school (to the right). 1072 M. Worthing (Marine; Steyne Hotel; *Royal Sea House^; to Portsmouth. CHICHESTER. 7. Route. 53 West Worthing ; Albion) ^ a favourite watering-place (16,600 in- hab.), -witli a line sandy "beach and a long iron pier, frequented "by those who like quieter quarters than Brighton. At West Worthing (stat.) are large baths and tennis-courts. Excursions may be made to the X. to the interesting churches of (I 51.) Broadwater and (2 M.) Sompting (p. xxxvi), and to the N.W. to (IV2 31.) West Tarring^ with fig-gardens (adm. 2(i.) and an E.E. church, and (2 M.) Salvington, the birthplace of Selden (1584-1654). Cisshury Hill^ 0,^/2 M. distant, is the site of a British or Roman encampment. Chancton- hury Ring (see p. 52), 5 M. to the N., and Eighdoicn Hill, 41/2 M. to the N.W., command extensive and beautiful views. On the summit of the latter is the tomb of a miller (d, 1793), buried here at his own request. 191/2 M. Ford Junction, with a branch-line to the S.E. to (2 M.") Littlehampton (Norfolk ; Terminus ; Beach), a small watering-place at the mouth of the Arun. Another branch runs N. to (^Yg M-) Arundel, Amberley, and (IV/o M.) Horsham (see p. 61). 22 M. Barnham, the junction for a short line to (81/2 ^0 Bognor (Norfolk,- Pier ; Bedford ; Victoria), a quiet bathing-place, with a pier and esplanade. — 26i/<> M. Drayton, the nearest station for (31/4 M.) Goodwood (p. 55). " The train now traverses a level and fertile tract of country, and reaches (in 50-70 min. from Brighton) — 28V2M. Chichester (^Dolphin, Anchor, Eagle, all in West St., facing the cathedral ; omn. from the station), a town of great an- tiquity (7850 inhab.), the Regnum of the Romans, the Cissa's Ceaster of the Saxons. It became the seat of a bishop after the Norman Conquest , when William transferred the ancient see of Selsey or Selsea (founded in the 7th cent.) to this place. The diocese of Chichester is conterminous with the county of Sussex, the only instance of such identity in England. As at Chester, the characteristic square ground-plan of the Romans is marked by the four principal streets, which are named after the points of the com- pass and meet each other at right angles in the centre of the town. At the point of intersection is the handsome ''^Market Cross, erected in 1500, but much damaged by the Puritans. The line of the town walls (date unknown) can still be traced throughout almost their whole circuit ; and on the N. and E. sides of the town portions of them have been converted into public promenades. From the station we approach the centre of the town through Southgate and South Street, passing, on the right, the ATu^eum of the Philosophical Society (open 10-4 ; adm. 3d.) , containing Ro- man antiquities and natural history specimens. A little farther on, to the left, wc reach the Canon Gate (15th cent.), leading to the cathedral-precincts. Immediately to the right, within the arch- way , is the small Vicars' Close , with its fine Hall of the 14th cent., now used by the Chichester Theological College. Going straight past the Vicars' Close, we reach St. Richard's Walk, named after Bishop Richard de la Wych (p. 64), a narrow passage on the right leading to the Cloisters (Perp. ; 16th cent.) , which it 54 Route 7. CHICHESTER. From Brighton reaches opposite the S. door of the cathedral. It is better, however, to turn to the left, quitting the cloisters (good view of the Cathe- dral), and enter the Cathedral by the E. E. Galilee Porch on the W. The *Cath.edral, originally begun about 1085, completed in 1108, and burned down in 1114, is in its present form substan- tially a transitional Norman building of the 12th cent., with some pointed details introduced after a second fire in 1186. The Lady Chapel dates from 1288-1304; the spire (277 ft.), erected in the 15th cent., collapsed in 1861 and was rebuilt in 1861-66. The de- tached Bell Tower, a feature peculiar to Chichester among English cathedrals, is, despite its weather-worn appearance, one of the most recent parts of the building, dating from the 15th century. The absence of the N. W. tower, which fell in 1634, gives a somewhat lop-sided appearance to the W. facade. The whole edifice was restored in 1848-66. The total length of the church is 410 ft. ; nave 172 ft.; width of nave and aisles 91 ft.; across transepts 131 ft.; height of nave 62 ft., of choir 65 ft. Comp. 'Architectural History of Chichester Cathedral', by R. Willis. The Interior (services at 10 and 4; adm. to choir Qd.), which was sadly defaced by the iconoclasts in 1643, shows in many respects a strong resemblance to the early French Gothic style , particularly in the super- structure of the choir, the arcades and detached shafts of the presbytery, and the double aisles of the nave. The outer aisles (E. E.), a peculiarity which Chichester shares with Manchester alone among English cathedrals, consisted originally of a series of chapels, afterwards thrown into one. The Nave proper, with its eight bays, is somewhat narrow in proportion to its height. The stained glass is all modern. Among the most interesting monuments are effigies of an Earl and Countess of Arundel (14th cent.; restored) and of a lady (13th cent.?), a "Tablet to Collins, the poet, a native of Chichester (1719-59), by Flaxman, and a statue of Huskisson, by Ccirew^ all in the N. aisle; and the monuments of Agnes Cromwell and Jane Smith, in the S. aisle, both by Flaxman. !Near the N. porch is an ancient wooden Chesty brought from Selsey Cathedral (see p. 53). The only old brass (1592) now left hangs against one of the piers in the S. aisle. The modern Pulpit is a memorial of Dean Hook (d. 1875), author of 'Lives of the Arch- bishops of Canterbury". — The N. Transept, formerly used as a parish church, contains a worthless series of portraits of the bishops, from St. Wilfrid (680) to Sherburne (1508-36), painted in the 16th cent, by an Italian named Bernardi. This transept is adjoined by the Chapel of the Four Virgins (entered from the N. aisle of the choir), now used as the Cathedral Library^ and containing some interesting relics. Among the manuscripts is a copy of the prayer-book of Hermann, Archbishop of Cologne, with the autograph of the martyr Cranmer, Archbishop of Can- terbury. The S. Transept possesses a fine Dee. window, filled with execrable Munich glass, and two other paintings by Bernardi (see above), representing the foundation of the see at Selsey (680) and the confirmation, by Henry VIII., of Bishop Sherburne's gifts to the Cathedral. Below is the tomb of Bishop Moleyns (1446-50). The Choir, elevated by four steps above the nave, extends three bays eastward from the tower. The oaken Choir Screen is new (1890). The carving of the Choir Stalls and misereres is very fine. The modern Rere- dos, with its carved group of the Ascension, has been left unfinished on the score of its excessive bulk. The mosaic pavement in front of the altar deserves attention. The choir is divided from its aisles by beauti- ful hammered iron screens in imitation of ancient work. In the S. aisle are two very interesting and well-preserved 'Saxon Sculptures, brought CHICHESTER CATHEDRAL Ms the Anin. — 54 M. Amberley has a ruined castle of the 14th century. About 4 M. to the E. is Bignor, with the remains of a *Roman Villa (adm. Is.). 571^ 2 M. Krundel (Norfolk Arms; Bridge), a small town situated on the river Arun. In the vicinity is *Arundel Castle, the magni- ficent seat of the Duke of Norfolk, which was founded as early as 62 Route 9. WEYBRIDGE. From London the 10th century. In 1102 it was besieged by Henry I., and after- wards by Stephen, and it was again attacked in 1644 by the Par- liamentary troops and left in ruins. The portion of the building now used as a residence was begun in 1791. The ancient *Keep, dating from the 12th cent., and the Dairy (to the E.) are shown on Mon. & Frid. (12-4) by tickets obtained gratis at the Norfolk Arms. Entrance by the principal gateway at the upper end of the town ; the top commands a line prospect of the surrounding country. The *Park is open to the public. — The '^Parish Church, erected in 138Q, with the adjoining chapel of a Benedictine Abbey which once stood here, is worthy of notice. The Fitz-Alan Chapel, or chancel (no admission), contains old monuments of the Arundel family. The Park affords several charming walks. The fine modern Church of St. Philip Neri (Rom. Cath.) was built by the Duke of Norfolk at a cost of lOOjOOOZ. The Arun is noted for its mullet, a dish of which may be obtained at the hotel. 60 M. Ford Junction, see p. 53. 9. From London to Portsmouth. 74 M. London and South Westeen Railway from Waterloo in 21/2-3 lirs. (fares 12s. 2c/., Is.Sd., Qs.id.., return-tickets, valid for one month, 21«. Ad., i'Ss. 6c?., Il5. 6) High Down (485 ft.), which is marked by a beacon and affords a splendid *View of the sea to the S., the Solent and the Hampshire coast to the N., and of the "W. part of the island. Totland Bay (see below) lies below us on the N. Con- tinuing to follow the edge of the chalk-cliffs for 2-27-2 M. more, we come in sight of Alum Bay and the Needles. (The best view is obtained from the fort at the point, but visitors are not always ad- mitted.) At the point we are about 1 M. from the Needles Hotel (see beiow), which lies a little inland from the bay. In fine weather it is, perhaps, preferable to make the excursion from Freshwater Bay to Alum Bay by boat, as this affords a better view of the Needles and the fine cliffs (boat with boatmen 10-i5». or more). The perpendicular Freshwater Cliffs, 400-500 ft. high, consist of chalk with clearly defined layers or ribbons of flint. The finest are those of 'Main Bench, where numerous sea-fowl breed in spring. Before reaching the Needles we pass the entrance of *Scratchell's Bay, a small but imposing recess, where the action of the water on the lower strata of the chalk cliffs has formed a magnificent natural arch, 200 ft. in height. *Alum Bay (*Royal Needles Hotel, R.& A. As., luncheon 2^. 6(i.), so named because alum is found here, is remarkable for the curious and pleasing effect produced by the vertical stripes of red, yellow, green, and grey sandstone, contrasting with the white chalk of the rest of the cliffs. The *Needle8 are three white, pointed rocks of chalk, resting on dark-coloured bases, and rising abruptly from the sea to a height of 100 ft. On the outermost is a lighthouse. A new pier has been built in the bay, and numerous excursion steamers call here in summer. Totland Bay (Totland Bay Hotel), about li/.j M. to the N. of Alum Bay, is another charming little watering-place, with a pier and good boating and bathing. Steamers ply to Lymington, etc. From Newport to Cowes, 4M,, railway in 16-20 min. (fares Is., 9d., Ad.). — The road (4^0 M.) passes the Union Workhouse (right) and (left) Albany Barracks and Farkhurst Prison. Those who prefer it may descend the Medina in a rowing-boat. 74 Route 10. COWES. West Cowes. — ^Marine; *Glostee; Fountain; Vine 5 Pier; Globe. — Steamboats to Southampton and to Ryde and Portsmontli several times daily. West Cowes , a busy little town , prettily situated, containing 7768 inhab., and possessing the best harbour in the island, has yacht-building yards, and is the headquarters of the Royal Yacht Squadron, the 300 members of which are the owners of craft vary- ing in size from 40 to 500 tons, and employ 2000 of the best English sailors as crews. Since 1856 this club has been located in the old Castle, once used as a state-prison. Regattas take place frequently in summer and autumn, the chief one in August. There is a good bathing-beach to the W. of the pier. Opposite West Cowes, on the other side of the estuary of the Medina, which is about 1/2 M. broad, lies the quiet and pleasant little town of East Cowes (Medina Hotel ; Prince of Wales) ; steam- ferry (V2^-) every few minutes. In the environs are the fine country-seats of East Cowes Castle and Norris Castle (Duke of Bed- ford). The grounds of the latter are bounded by those of the royal marine residence of Osborne, which is beautifully situated and fitted up with great magnificence (not shown to visitors). Travellers intending to return to London may now take the steam- boat from Cowes to Portsmouth (40 min. 5 fares 2s. id. and Is. Id.), which calls at Ryde on its way. The passage along the coast from Cowes to Pi.yde is picturesque; the shores are luxuriantly wooded, and good views are obtained of Xorris Castle and Osborne. — Travellers bound for Southamp- ton may either go direct by steamer (1 hr. *, fares 2s. Id. and Is. Id.) or to Portsmouth by steamer, and thence by railway. In the former case they enjoy a pleasant sail up Southampton Water, the mouth of which is protected by Calthot Castle, one of the forts built by Henry VIII. About 21/2 M. farther up, to the left, lies ffythe (Drummond Arms), and on the opposite shore is seen Netley Hospitul (p. 82; abbey not visible). In mid- stream lies the guard-ship 'Invincible'. 11. From London to Winchester and Southampton. Neiv Forest. South Western Railway from Waterloo to (66'/2 M.) Winchester in IV4- 21/2 hrs. (fares lis., 55., 55. 6c?.; return-ticket, 19s. 3c/., 12s. 2(7, 10s. 6(f.); to (79 M.) Southampton in 2>/4-3»A hrs. (fares I3s.. 8s. 2d., 6s. 6d. ; return, 23s., 14s. Qd., lis. Qd.). Return-tickets are valid for a month. From London to (24'/2 M.) Woking, see R. 9. Beyond Woking the train passes Woking Convict Prison, for invalid prisoners, and the Brookwood Lunatic Asylum (both to the right), and reaches (271/2 M.) Brookwood. To the left lies Woking Necropolis, an im- mense cemetery, 2000 acres in extent , to which a special funeral train runs daily from London (private station in Westminster Bridge Road). In one corner is a crematorium. — About 1/2 M. to the N. of Brookwood station is Bisley Common, the meeting-place of the National Rifle Association since 1889. About IV2 M. beyond Brookwood, on the left (S.), diverges the loop- line to aV2 M.) AldershoU, (IOI/2 M.) Farnham, (19 M.) Alton, and (35 M.) Wi7ichester. ALDERSHOT. //. Route. 75 Aldershotf ffoya^- Imperial), now a busy town with 25,600 inhab. (includ- ing the soldiers), has grown to its present size through the establishment here in 1854 of a lar^e Military Camp, 9 sq. M. in extent, and capable ot accommodating 20,000 men. The military manoeuvres which take place here from time to time are on an extensive scale and well worth seeing. The most commanding point of view is the eminence called Caesar s Camp, on which stands the equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington, formerly on the top of the Green Park Arch in London. Farnham (Bush, well spoken of; Lion d- Lamb) is a pleasant little town with 5545 inhab., situated in the midst of a hop-district second in importance to Kent alone. The Castle, now the palace of the Bishop of Winchester, was originally built in the 12th cent., but dates in its present form mainly from 1662-84; the Keep is probably of the 13th century, William Cohhett (d. 1835) was born at Farnham in the 'Jolly Farmers', Bridge Sq. — About l'/2 31. to the E. of Farnham is Moor Park, where Swift acted as secretary to Sir William Temple (d. 1699) and made the acquaintance of 'Stella'. Waverley Ahhey, see p. 65. From Alton (Swan) a visit may be paid to Selborne (p. 65), which lies 5 M. to the S.E. — Near (33V2 M.) Alres/ord is Tichborne Bouse, a name well known from the notorious law-suit, which is said to have saddled the estate with a debt of 90,000^. — 35 M. Winchester, see below. The train now passes between the Chobham Ridges on the right and the Fox Hills on the left, and crosses the Guildford and Read- ing railway (p. 64). — 33 M. Farnborough (Queen's, at the North Camp"), one of the stations for Aldershot (Damp, which begins a little to the S. of it. To the right lies Farnborough Hill, the present home of the Empress Eugenie, who has built a chapel (^to the left of the railway) for the remains of her husband and son. About 250 acres of ground in the environs of Farnborough are occupied by strawberries, cultivated for the London market. — Near (361/.2 M.) Fleet the line skirts a small lake; on the right (2/4 M.) is Elvetham House, where Queen Elizabeth was entertained in 1591 by the Earl of Hertford. — 39 M. Winchfield, with a fine church partly Norman, partly Gothic. About 2 M. to the S.W. (omn.) is Odiham (George), with an old castle where King David of Scotland was imprisoned after his capture at Neville's Cross fp. 421). To the N. lies Eversley^ the home of Charles Kingsley (_d. 1875) for 33 years. The line now passes through (_41 M.l Hook and the village of Old Basing, where a battle took place between the Saxons and Danes in 871. It contains the scanty ruins of Basing House, built by the first Marquis of Winchester in the reign of Edward VI., which resisted the Parliamentary troops for four years and was finally stormed by Cromwell himself (1645). 48 m. Basingstoke (Red Lion; Rail. Rfmt. Rooms), with 7960 inhab.. Is the junction of lines to Salisbury (R. 14) and Read- ing (p. 106 ). Close to the station, on the right, is the ruined Chapel of the Holy Ghost (16th cent.), in an ancient cemetery. The Parish Church is a Perp. building, restored. From Basingstoke to Heading (Silchester; Strathfieldsaye), see p. 106. The route to Winchester now traverses the chalk downs. 661/2 M. Winchester. — Hotels. George, corner of High St. and Jewry St., well spoken of, R. k A. 55., D. 5s., board i'2s. per day; 'Rotal, 76 Route 11. WINCHESTER. Cathedral. St. Peter St., with a garden, quiet; Black Swan, R. & A. 4s. 6d.', Eagle, near the S.W. station, unpretending. Restaurants. Easton, 55 High St.; Oeorge Hotel Grill-Room, Jewry St. Cabs. From either of the stations to most of the hotels Is. ; from station to station Is. Gd.-. per hr. 3s., each addit. 1/2 lir. Is. 3d. Each article of luggage carried outside 2d. Railway Stations. South Western Station., at the upper end of the town-, Great Western Station (for Oxford and the North, London via Did- cot, etc.), at the lower end of the town, near the river. Fishing in the Itchen ; apply to Mr. Chalklep , fishing-tackle maker near the Cathedral. Winchester, a city of great antiquity and the seat of a bishop, with 19,000 inhab., is situated on the W. bank of the lichen. Before the Roman invasions Winchester was known under the name of Caer Gwent (white castle), which was Latinised as Venta Belgarum, the Belgae being the British tribe which had its settlement here. In 495 the Saxons took possession of the town, and named it Winteceasier (ceaster = . castrum). Winchester was the capital of the Saxon kingdom of Wessex, was converted to Christianity by Birinus, the Apostle of the West of England, in 635, and was afterwards the seat of government of Alfred the Great, Canute the Dane, and William the Conqueror. After the Norman Conquest Winchester for a time rivalled London in commercial impor- tance, but soon lost its pre-eminence, especially after its visitation by a serious fire in 1141. Down to the Reformation, however, it maintained a position of great ecclesiastical dignity. Now-a-days the city has that quiet and venerable appearance which we are wont to associate with the seat of a cathedral; and the woollen manufacture for which it was once famous has entirely died out. See Bean £itchin''s 'Winchester' ('Historic Towns' series; 1890). To reach the Cathedral we descend the High Street to the curious old arcade, and turn to the right by a narrow passage close to the City Cross ^ a monument of the 15th cent, (restored). The *Cathedral (daily service at 10 and 3, with fair music), a stately edifice , incorporating every style of English architecture from the Norman to the Perpendicular, was founded by Bp. Walk- elin in 1079, close to the site of a Saxon church of the 10th cent, which had replaced one of the 7th. The choir and transepts wore finished in 1093, the conversion of the nave from Norman to Perpendicular was begun by Bishop Edington before 1366, and the whole was completed in 1486. The builder (or transformer) of by far the greater part of the nave was Bishop William of Wykeham, the renowned architect, ecclesiastic, and statesman, who occupied the see from 1366 to 1404. The church is the longest in England, measuring 560 ft. in all ; the breadth across the transepts is 208 ft. The arms of the transept are flanked with aisles, and still retain the form of a pillared basilica with arcades. The first employment of Pointed architecture is seen in the addition to the choir on the E. The *W. Fa^adeyf&s begun in 1350 by Bishop Edington, finished in the 15th cent., and restored in 1860; the statue of William of Wyke- ham is modern. The general effect of the exterior is somewhat heavy and unimposing, and the stunted proportions of the only tower detract considerably from its dignity. The Dec. and Perp. work at the E. end is, however, very fine. The Cathedral is dedicated ;lB.|i^iiiTomb — r^ CLOSE or Site of CLOISTER S UNlCHrSTER CMHiEDRAL Cathedral. WINCHESTER. 11. Route. "7 to SS. Peter and Paul and the Holy Trinity; the choir is also popul- arly supposed to 1)6 dedicated to St. Swithin (day, July 15th), whose traditionary connection with the weather is ascribed to the un- historic legend that the removal of his body to the shrine prepared for it was delayed for 40 days by rain. The Interior of the church is very impressive owing to the beauty of its proportions, the great length of the Nave, and the fine groining. Visitors should notice the remaining traces of Wiilkelin's Norman nave, such as the masonry of the pier?. The fact that the core of the piers is also Norman perhaps accounts for their unusual massiveness. One of the most characteristic features of Winchester is its fine -Chantry Cfiapels, most of which were founded by Bishops of Winchester between 1350 and 1486. The most interesting of all is that of Bishop William of Wykeham, designed by himself (1366-1404), in the fifth bay on the S. side of the nave; and the nave also contains that of Bishop Edington (p. 76). On the wall of the N. aisle, nearly opposite the chantry of William of Wykeham, is a brass tablet to the memory of Jam Austen (1775-1817) , who is buried beneath the pavement in front of it. Above it is a curious old epitaph. In the next bay of the N. aisle is the ancient sculptured Font, in black marble, dating from the 12th century. At the W. end of the K. aisle is a Cantoria, or singing gallery. Much of the old stained glass was destroyed by the Puritans, but that in the ^W. Window dates in part from 1350. The Transepts are the oldest part of the church as it now stands, and show the Norman work of Bishop Walkelin almost untouched (1079-93). The later Norman work, necessitated by the fall of the tower early in the 12th cent., is easily recognized by its finer jointing. The S. arm con- tains memorials of Bishop Wilber/orce (d. 1813) and of Izaak Walton (d. 1683; in the Silkstede Chapel), whose memory is indissolubly associated with the Itchen and other streams of the neighbourhood. The mural paint- ings in the Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre, in the N. transept, are curious, though much damaged by past neglect (13th cent.). The Choik is separated from the nave by an oaken screen, designed by Sir G. G. Scott. On passing it we are struck with the immense thickness of the piers supporting the tower, which owe their unusual solidity to a desire to prevent a repetition of the fate of the first tower, which fell soon after its erection. Under the tower is the tomb of an ecclesiastic, which used to be said to hold the bones uf William Rufus (d. 1100). The oaken 'Stalls of 1296, darkened with age, are richly carved. The pulpit was presented by Prior Silkstede in 1498, but the bishops throne is modern. The painted glass of the ^E. Window dates from about 1620. Prolonging the choir towards the E. is the Presl'ptery, con- taining a fine reredos of the 15th cent, (restored) and an altar-piece (Rais- ing of Lazarus) by West. The marriage of Queen Mary with Philip of Spain was celebrated here in 1554, and the chair preserved in Kishop Langton's chapel (see p. 78) is supposed by some to be that in which she sat during that ceremony. The presbytery is enclosed at the sides by handsome stone screens (1500-1525), upon which lie six richly coloured wooden mortuary chests, containing the bones of Ethelwolf, Egbert, Canute, William Rufus, and other kings, preserved from the old cathedral. The identity of most of the skeletons, however, has long been lost. Behind the reredos is the feretory, a raised platform for the shrines of the patron saints of the cathedral. The E. end of the feretory is adorned with fine tabernacle-work, and in the middle is the entrance to a vault called the Holy Hole, probably a receptacle for relics. To the right and left (N. and S.) of the feretory are the chantries of Bishops Gardiner (1555) and Fox (1528), and farther to the E. those of Bishop Waynflete (1447-86) and Cardinal Beavfort (d. 1447). Between the last two is the site of the once famous Shrine of St. Swifhin (see above). The part of the Cathedral to the E. of the feretorv, including the aisles, is mostly in the E.E. style, and the work of Bishop Lucy (1189-1204). To the E. it terminates in the Lady Chapel, flanked by two smaller ones. 78 Route 11. WINCHESTER. Winchester School. The Lady Chapel, one bay of which is E.E and the other Perp. (15th cent.), is adorned with mural paintings of about 1500, representing the Miracles of the Virgin, The statue of Bishop North (d. 1820) in the Lady Chapel is by Chantrey. The chapel to the S. was fitted up as a chantry by Bishop Langton (d. 1501) , who is buried here , and that to the N., the Chapel of the Guardian Angels (12th cent.), contains the monuments of two bishops and of Westnn, Earl of Portland (d. 1634), Lord High Treasurer of Charles I. In the N. transept is the entrance to the Crypt, the W. part of which, recently cleared out, shows Walkelin's original plan and is a fine specimen of early -Norman substructure. The E. part is the work of Bishop Lucy (p. 77) and the easternmost bay was added by Priors Silkstede and Hunton. The Slype, a passage constructed in 1636 as a substitute for a public right of^vay through the Cathedral, leads from the S.W. corner of the W. fagade (note the curious inscriptions) to the Close to the S. of the church. This, with its smooth turf and abundant foliage, forms a striking contrast to the grey and venerable Cathedral. The passage between the Norman arches of the old chapter-house and the S. Transept leads to the Library^ which contains a fine copy of the Vulgate and some relics taken from the coffin of William Rufus, The entrance to the Deanery, which contains the old Prior"s Hall, is distinguished by its three pointed arches of the 13th century. We quit the Close by a gate in the S. E. corner, pass through King's Gate above which is St. Swithins Church, and turn to the left into College Street, which soon brings us to the College, the second lion of Winchester. (Apply at the porter's lodge at the sec- ond gateway to the right ; fee.) *Wiiicliester School, or the College of St. Mary Winton, which is connected with New College, Oxford, was also built by William of Wykeham in 1373-96, and, though extensive new buildings have become necessary , the older parts remain nearly unaltered. It has ranked for centuries among the lead- ing public schools of England, and is attended by 400 boys. The parts shown to visitors include two quadrangles, surrounded by the picturesque old School Buildings; the entrance to the Kitchen, with a singular picture of a 'Trusty Servant'; the Chapel, containing a carved oak pulpit from New College, Oxford; the Cloisters, with the names of Bishop Ken (1646) and other eminent Wykhamists cut in the stone; the Dining Hall; and the old lavatory, know'n by the boys as '■MoaV, while they call the shoe-blacking place '^Edom" (Ps. Ix. 8). — The new buildings, also in the form of a quadrangle, lie to the W. of the old. — At the back are the *Cricket Fields, prettily situated on the river, and affording a good view of the College and of St. Catharine's Hill or 'Hills'. Farther along College Street, on the left side and beyond the river, are the ruins of Wolvesey Palace, a Norman structure built by Bishop Henri de Blois in 1138. There are interesting^ remains of the Saxon keep. Queen Mary resided here in 1554 (p. 77). From Wolvesey Palace the visitor may skirt the river to Soke Bridge , at the foot of High St. If time allow, he should cross the bridge and ascend to ('^hr.) the top of St. Giles's Hill, which affords an admirable *Yiew of the city. — St. John's Church, in St. John St., at the foot of St. Giles's Hill, has aisles considerably wider than the nave. The style is partly Norman, and partly E.E. Hosp.ofSt.Cross. WINCHESTER. 11. Route. 79 At the foot of High St. are the Abbey Grounds^ a public garden opened in 1891, on the site of St. Mary's Abbey, founded by Eals- with, queen of Alfred the Great. Adjoining is the Guildhall, a modern building by Sir G. G. Scott, containing a small museum (open daily 10-1 and 2-4 or 6). — At the top of the High St. is the West Gate, a fortified gateway of the 13th century. — Adjacent (left) is the County Court, with a fine hall , belonging to a castle erected here by William the Conqueror , but afterwards altered and heightened by Henry III. On the wall hangs a curious relic known as 'King Arthur's Round Table', said to date from the 6th cent, but repainted in the time of Henry VIII. — King Alfred was buried in Hyde Abbey, Jewry St., part of which is now a barn. About 1 M. to the S.W. of the town lies the 'Hospital of St, Cross (adm. by ticket at the lodge, Qd,, 3 pers. 1<;.), which may be reached either through Southgate Street, or by a path along the bank of the Itchen. This peculiar institution vvaa founded in 1136 by Bishop Henri de Blois for the mainten- ance of 13 poor men, unable to work, and for the partial support of 100 others. A remnant of the ancient hospitality is still maintained, any one who applies at the porter's lodge being entitled to the refreshment of a horn of ale and a slice of bread, unless the daily quantum has al- ready been distributed. The "Church, completed before the year 1200, and lately restored, is a beautiful example of the transition from the Norman to the E.E. style of architecture. Among the most interesting features are the exquisitely delicate late-Norman mouldings, a curious triple arch at the S. transept (external), and the modern polychrome painting (by Butteriield) in the supposed original style. The quadrangle and its surroundings also form a most delightful picture. Visitors are conducted to the Refectory, with its fine open roof, and to the Kitchen. The former contains an ancient triptych, attributed to Mabuse. On the opposite bank of the Itchen, not far from the hospital, is *St. Catherine's Hill , crowned by a group of trees and a labyrinth cut in the turf, and affording an admirable view of the ancient town. From St. Cross we may continue our walk along the Itchen to (3 M.) the pretty villajie of Tioyford (see below). — Admirers of the 'Christian Year' may combine in one excursion from Winchester a visit to (5 M.) HursleiJ and (4V'i M.) Otterbourne, livings held by the Rev. John Keble (d. 1866), who is buried in the churchyard of the former. The church was rebuilt by him with the profits of the 'Christian Year'. Hursley Bouse occupies the site of the house of Richard Cromwell, many of whose family are buried in the church. Beyond Winchester the Railway continues to descend the valley of the Itchen. — In the village of Twyford, near (70 M.) Shawford^ Franklin wrote part of his autobiography. — 73 M. Eastleigh and Bishopstoke (Junction Hotel), the junction of lines to Portsmouth on the left and Salisbury on the right. Bishopstoke, pleasantly situated on the Itchen, is a thriving town with the South Western Railway Carriage Works. From Bishopstokk to Stokes Bat (Ooxport), 14 M., railway in '/z-V* br. (fares 3s. 6(f., 2s. '2d., is. Cid.). This is part of the through-route to Ryde via Stokes Bay (comp. p. 66). — Beyond (6 M.) Botley the line crosses "the small river Humble. About 6 M. to the E. lies Bishop s Wallham (branch line), with the ruined castle of the Bishops of Winchester. — The train passes through a tunnel 200 yds. in length and shortly afterwards another 600 yds. long. — 11 M. Fareham (p. 58), on the line from Portsmouth to Southampton. — 12'/2 M. Brockhurst, beyond which a short branch diverges 80 Route 11. SOUTHAMPTON. Steamers. to (3/4 M.) Gosport^ see p. 58. 13 M. Gosport Road. — At (14 M.) Slokes Bay the trains run alongside the steamers for Ryde ('/4hr.''s passage). 76 M. Swathling ; 77 M. St. Denys ; 78 M. Northam. 79 M. Southampton. — Hotels. Radlet's, opposite the station, R. & A. from 4s. , D. from 3s. 6d. ; South Western Railway Hotel, a large house at the terminus ; Matcham's Dolphin, Rotal, Stak, Crown, all in High St. ; Pier, on the Quay. — *Flower''s Temperance, Queen's Terrace; Goodridge's, Railway, near the station. Restaurants. Stiiste., High St. ; Bail. Refreshment Rooms. Cabs. Per mile is., for each addit. '/i M. 3tf. ; per V2 ir. Is. Qd., 3/4 hr. 2s,, 1 hr. 2s. Qd., each addit. 1/4 l^r. Qd. With 2 horses Is. 6(7., id., 2s., 2s. 6c?., 3s., Sd. — Luggage, conveyed by barrow-porter from the hotels or station to the docks: 1/2 cwt. (56 lbs.) Qd., 1 cwt. Is., 2 cwt. Is. 6rf., 3 cwt. 3s. ; small parcel 3d!., two or more parcels, Qd. each. Luggage taken from the station to the hotels by hotel-porter, gratis. Boat to Netley Abbey with one man 3s., with two men 4s.: there and back, including stay of 2 hrs., 7s. By time : first hr. 2s., each addit. hr. Is. — Small boats at the West Quay, without rower, Qd. per hr. Tramway from the Terminus through High St. and Above Bar to the Park, and thence on the left to Shirley and on the right to Portswood (2d. or 3d.). — Omnibuses from the Bar Gate to Bitierne, Totton, etc. — Floating Bridge across the Itchen to Itchen. Steamers to the Channel Islands, see R. 12; to the Isle of Wight, see R. 10. To HytJie, Portsmouth, and Southsea, several times daily. To Havre (London to Paris service), .daily at midnight: to St. Malo, every Mon., Wed., and Frid. ; to Cherbourg, every Tues., Thurs., and Sat. at 10.30 p.m. To Plymouth, Liverpool, and Glasgow, once a week •, to London, twice a week. Southampton is the starting-point of the mail-packets to S. America, the West Indies, and the Cape of Good Hope. — Since March, 1893, Southampton has been the starting-point for the passenger steamers of the American Line to New York (every Sat. at noon; see p. 1). The steamers of the North German Lloyd (Sun., Tues., h more generally spoken than in Guernsey. St. Heller's. — Hotels. BRfiE's RoTAL Hotel, David Place, at some distance from tlie harbour, pens. 8.?. 6d.-125., R. & A. from 3s. ; United Service Hotel, David Place, near Bre'e's, pens. Is.-, Roval^ Yacht, near the pier, pens. 8s. 6d., R. & A. from 2.<. 3d.; Graxd, pens. 10s. 6d., well spoken of, with swimming and Turkish baths, Minor's Private Hotel, pens. 8s. Gd., these both facing the sea, at the W. end of the Esplanade-, British, Broad St., pens. Is. Of/., Halket, Broad St., 7s. — York, Royal Square, Is. 6d. ; Star, near the Pier, Franklin, unpretending; Temperance Hotel, Broad St., pens. 6s. — French Houses: Pomme d'Or, facing the sea, pens, from 7s. ; Hotel de l'Europe, Mulcaster St., 10 fr. — Board- ing Houses and Lodgings numerous, but often full in the season. — Restaurants at most of the hotels. Theatre, Gloucester St., adm. Qd.-3s. — Pavilion, near the Grand Hotel and the Public P;irks, concerts several eA'enings weekly. — Band on the pier and in the People's Park, each once a week in summer. Post Office, Grove Place. — Baths. Victoria Baths, George Town; at the Grand Hotel, see above. Steamers from .Jersey to Granville and St. Malo (fares 10 fr., 6 fr. 25 c; return, available for a month, 16 fr., 9 fr. 40 c.) ply daily in summer ; to St. Brienc (8s., 6s., 5s., return available for two months 12s., 10s., Ss.) once weekly. — To Guernsey., daily, comp. p. 84. — The Southampton steamers start from the Victoria Pier, the farthest from the town, the Weymouth steamers from the Albert or S. Pier. — From Gorey Pier (p. 92) a steamer plies daily in summer to Cartaret in France in 80 min. (return-ticket, valid on day of issue or from Sat. to Mon., Os. Qd., 3s. Qd.). Cabs. For the first mile Is., each additional mile or fraction 6d.; from the harbour to the town Is. 6(f . ; per hour 2s. 6d., each addit. ^/zhr. Is. — Omnibus from the harbour to the town Qd. Excursion Cars, see p. 84. — Carriages, 20*. per day. Railway to Corbiere, 7V2 M., in Vz hr. ; to Gore;/ Pier, G'/z M., in 22 min. Trains several times daily. Return-tickets entitle the holders to break the journey at any intermediate station, U. S. Consular Agent, E. B. Renovf, Esq., 15 Royal Square. St. Heliers, the capital of Jersey, is picturesquely situated on the beautiful Bay of St. Aubin, on the S. of the island. It is a well-built and flourishing town with 29,13.^ inhab. and combines the character of a busy seaport with that of a fashionable watering- place. It is a favourite residence for retired officers of the army and navy and it contains many schools, the chief of which is Vic- toria College, a handsome building on the E, side of the town (1852). The harbour is enclosed by substantial piers, but is dry at low water. To the N. is the Town Church, a Gothic edifice of the 14th cent., lately restored. Opposite the E. end is Royal Square, the former market-place, with a curious gilt statue of George II. The square was the scene of the death of Major Pierson at the Battle of Jersey in 1781, when an attempt by the French to seize the town 92 Route 12. JERSEY. The Channel v/as siicoessfully repulsed. On the S.E. side of the square is a block of buildings containing the Cohiie Royal or court-house, the Salle des E(!at5, or parliament-house, and the Public Library (17,000 vols.). The two former are shown by an usher (small fee) ; in the Cohue Royal is a copy of Copley's 'Death of Major Pierson' (see p. 91), and a portrait of Gen. Con-way, by Gainsborough. Broad St., lead- ing W. from Royal Square, contains an obelisk in memory oi Pierre Le Sueur (1811-1853), five times mayor of St. Helier's, and is con- tinued by York St., with the Hotel de Ville, to the Parade^ an open space planted with trees and embellished with a monument to Gen. Don, a former governor. Farther to the W. is the People's Park, above which rises the Gallows Hill. — To the N.E. of the town is the Maison St. Louis, a house of the Jesuits. On a ridge to the E. of the harbour rises Fort Regent (no adm.), a strong and massive modern fortress, erected at a cost of nearly l.OOOjOOOi. In size, and as a defence, this stronghold eclipses the picturesque old Elizabeth Castle, situated on a rock in the middle of the harbour (permit for the latter on application at the Governor s Office, No. 8, Stopford Road). On an adjoining rock are the ruius of a very ancient structure, which tradition names the Hermitage of St. Holier or Elericus (p. 85). The excursions from St. Helier's may be conveniently grouped into the following three sections, which comprise all the most inter- esting parts of the island. They may be made by the excursion-cars (p. 84), or partly by rail (p. 91) and partly on foot. The pedestrian, however, may perform the circuit of the island without returning at night to St. Helier's, as there are fair inns at many different points (comp. pp. 93, 94). 1. From St. Helier's to Gorey and E. Jersey. Eastern Railway to Gorey Pier in 22min., skirting the fiat coast most of the way, affording a view of the wide Grouville Bay with Fort Henry in the centre. There are several intermediate stations. 11 min. Pontac (Old Pontac Hotel) is the station for the village of St. Clement, with an old church containing some curious frescoes. 13 min. La Rocque is the chief Ashing station in the island. 16 min. Grouville, near Gorey Common, on which are a golf-course, rifle-range, and race- course. 19 min. Gorey Village. — 22 Gorey Pier (British Hotel) lies at the foot of a lofty headland crowned with *Mont Orgueil Castle, an imposing and picturesque ruin, part of which is said to date from the Roman period. The Chapel of St. George , with short thick piers and colonettes, is interesting. Charles II. resided here for some time during his exile, and for three years (1637-40) it was the prison of William Prynne, the pamphleteer, who wrote a poem on the castle. On a clear day the spires of Coutances Cathe- dral can be seen from the battlements. Steamer to Cartaret, p. 91; frequent steamers also to Port Bail. Beyond Gorey we proceed on foot along the coast to the N. Islands. JERSEY. 12. Route. 93 Beyond Anne Port and St. Catharine's Harbour is (1 hr. from Gorey) the breakwater of Pierre Mouillie. This massive work, 800 yds. long, was constructed in 1843-55 at a cost of 250,000^. as the be- ginning of a harbour of refuge, before it was discovered that the set of the tides, etc., rendered the enterprise entirely useless. Beyond Verciut Point is FLicquet Bay^ bounded on the N. by an almost de- tached headland called La Coupe. On the next headland, the Cou- peron, is a dolmen ; and beyond it is the secluded little bay of *Rozel (Hotel), a favourite point for picnics from St. Helier's. From this point we may return by the road leading to the S. through the interior of the island, passing first St. Martin's Church (I'ith cent.), with an elegant tower disastrously 'restored'. Farther on is La Hogue Bie, or the Prince's Tower (adm. 6d.), a modern structure erected on an interesting ancient tumulus. The *View from the top is very fine, embracing the whole island, with its park-like interior and indented coasts ; to the E. the coast of Normandy is visible. About 1 M. farther on is the hamlet of Five Oaks, beyond which we pass St. Saviour's Church, the Government House, and Victoria College (p. 91), reaching St. Helier's after about 10 M. walking from Gorey. Those who have less time to spare may proceed from Gorey direct to St. Martin's Church or to La Hogue Bie, reaching St. Helier's after a walk in the former case of 6 M., in the latter of about 4i/2M. The direct road from Gorey to St. Helier's via Grouville is about 3 M. 2. From St. Helier's to St. Aubin's, Corbiere, and W. Jersey. The Western Railway (p. 91) and the road skirt the edge of the broad, flat St. Aubin's Bay. At low tide the sands may be crossed on foot. St. Aubin's (^Sommerville, well spoken of, 8s. Qd.-iOs. 6rf.) is a small town with a harbour and an old castle built on a detached rock like Elizabeth Castle at St. Helier's. Beyond St. Aubin's the road leads to the W. to (I1/2 M.) St. Brelade\<^ Church, one of the oldest churches in the Channel Islands (illl ; under- going restoration), situated on the W. shore of the attractive St. Brelade's Bay (Hotel). Adjoining the church is the Fisherman''s Chapel, a still earlier structure. At high tide the sea washes over the churchyard. The little inlet of Beauport, on the W. side of the bay, contains some very pic- turesque rock-scenery. About 2 M. beyond the church is La Corl iere (see below), which may also be reached by the cliffs. To the S. of St. Aubin's are the pretty grounds of Noirmont Manor (admission usually granted on application at the lodge). The avenue leads to Noirmont Point, to the W. of which is Portelet Bay, with granite quar ries. Janvrin Island in this bay (accessible at low water) derives its name from a sea-captain who, with his whole crew, died here of plague in 1721, while in quarantine. The railway runs inland from St. Aubin's (only G trains daily beyond St. Aubin's), crossing the sandy plateau of Le Quenvais. LaMoye, the fourth station from St. Aubin's, is the most convenient for those desiring to explore St. Ouen's Bay, etc. (see p. 94), on foot. The terminus of the railway is at (71/2 ^J-l -^ci Corbitre, the S.W. extremity of the island, where there is a lighthouse (permit 94 Route 12. JERSEY. obtained at the Hotel de Ville in St. Heller's). Fantastic rocky scenery. La Corbiere forms tbe S. headland of the wide and open Bay of St. Ouen, which occupies almost the whole of the W. coast. At the opposite end of the bay, 5V2 ^^- to the N., is the Etac, another detached mass of rock. Accommodation may be obtained at the inn in the adjoinina: village. About 3/4 M. farther on is a detached pinnacle of rock, 160 ft. high, known as La Pule, and ^/^ M. beyond is Cape Grosnez, the N.W. point of the island, marked by a picturesque ruined arch. The adjoining *Greve au LanQon is frequently visit- ed for its curious caverns and fissures, which, however, are most easily reached from Plemont Point, on the opposite side. A good view is obtained here of the other Channel Islands. A walk of 1V2^' along the coast brings us to the *Greve de Lecq (Hotel and Inn), another fine bay. with some curious caves and a ruined breakwater. The return to (j^/o ^1^0 St. Helier's may be made hence through the heart of the island, passing M. Slough (Crown; Royal) is the junction of the line to Eton and (3 M.l Windsor (p. 222 ). Windsor may also be reached from London by the L. S. W. railway (from Waterloo station): fares by either route 3s. Qd., 2s. 3d.., Is. 9(f. Slough is also the station for Stoke Poges, Burnham Beeches., etc. ; see p. 252 and Baedeker''s Handbook for London. A view of Windsor Castle is obtained to the left as we leave Slough. The scenery of the Thames Valley between Slough and Goring (see p. 107) is very pleasing. 24 M. Maidenhead (p. 2223, prettily situated on the Thames, is the junction of a line to Wycombe and Oxford (see p. 224). From (31 M.) Twyford a branch diverges to Henley-on-Thames (p. 221). 36 M. Reading [Great Western, at the station; Queen's; Vastern Temperance ; George, unpretending, R. & A. 3s.), the county-town of Berkshire, is an ancient and flourishing town with 60,054 in- habitants. The Benedictine Abbey, founded by Henry I. in 1121, and containing his grave, was once one of the wealthiest in England; a few ruins now alone remain. The gateway was restored in 1861. Several parliaments were held in the great hall of the abbey. The University Extension College, the first of its kind, near the station, occupies the site of the old Hospitium of St. John, and has accom- modation for 600 students. Its agricultural department is a centre for investigation and instruction for the southern counties. The college is affiliated to Oxford University. The churches of St. Mary (16th cent.), St. Lawrence (15th cent.), and Grey friars are interest- ing. Adjoining the Free Library is a Musemn containing a collection of Romano-British antiquities from Silchester (see below). The antiquities include a hoard of 253 silver denarii (40 B.C. -211 A.D.), found in an earthenware pot: objects in bone, glass, gold, bronze, and other metals-, pottery, including some good specimens of Samian ware; and a fine slab of Purbeck marble. Archbishop Laud (1573-1645) and Justice Talfourd (1795- 1854) were natives of Reading. Huntley ^' Palmers' biscuit manufactory (nearly 5000 hands) and Sutton and Sons seed-farms (3000 acres) are situated at Reading. Reading may also be reached from London by the S. W. Railway via Ascot (431/2 M.), "or bv the circuitous route of the S. E.R. via Reigate and Guildford (67 M. •, comp. p. 63). From Reading to Basixgstoke, I4V2M., railway in 1/2 hr. (fares 25. Gd., Is. 8d., is. 31,2^.). — 6 M. Mortimer. About 21/2 M. to the S.W. lies SUchester, with interesting remains of the Romano-British town of Caer-Segeint, called Calleva by the Romans and Silceastre by the Saxons. The town walls (2760 yds, in circuit), a large amphitheatre, the foundations of numerous other buildings, and some fine pavements have been discovered. WANTAGE. 25. Route. 107 Recent discoveries indicate tliat the ancient town contained numerous dye-works. The smaller antiquities discovered are preserved at Reading (see p. 106). About 2 M. to the E. of Mortimer is Strathfieldsaye, the seat of the Duke of Wellington, with the camp-bed and other memorials of the Iron Duke, of whom a bronze statue has been erected here. His charger 'Copenhagen', which he rode at the battle of Waterloo, is buried in the garden. — 9M. Bramley. — 141/2 M. Basingstoke^ see p. 75. Fi:oM Reading to Bath via Devize.s, 70 31., railway in 31/2 hrs. (fares II5. lU'i., 7s. 6-dox Towx to Marlborough and Axdovek Junction (South- ampton), 35 M., railway in l-l'/2 hr. (fares 5s. Qd., 3s. Qd., 2s, 9d.) — 14 M. Marlborough (Ailesburv Arms; Castle d: Ball) is known for its College, established in 1S45 and now one of the great public schools of England (500-600 pupils). The oldest part of the college was formerly the mansion of Lord Seymour, where Thomson wrote part of his 'Seasons' while the guest of the Countess of Hertford. A beautifal new chapel was opened in 1886. — About 6 M. to the W. is *Avebury Circle (p. Ixii), the largest stone-circle in England, and generally looked upon as older than Stone- henge. To the S. of it is Silbury Sill, a large artificial mound 170 ft. high, supposed to be of British origin. — 19V2 M. Savernake, see p. 107, — Four small stations are passed. — 35 M. Andover Junction (p. 98). From Swindon Town to Cirencester and Cheltenham, 36 M., rail- way in IV4 hr. (fares 65. , 3*. 9d. , 35.). This line , the N. extension of the preceding, runs via (8V2M.) Cricklade, on the Thames, an ancient but now unimportant place. 15M. Cirencester, see p. 170. — Three small stations are passed. 28 M. Andoversford d- Dowdeswell is the junction for the line from Chipping Norton to Cheltenham. — 36 M, Cheltenham (p. 182). 83 M. WoottonBassett. From (88 M. )Daunfsey a branch diverges to (6 M.)Malmesbury r^m/s Arms j, the birthplace of Thomas Hobbes (1588-1679) , with the ruins of a fine *Abbey Church (12th cent.) and a Gothic market-cross. Pop. 2964, William of Malmesbury, the to Bristol. BATH. 15. Route. 109 chronicler (d. ca. 1143), was a monk in the abbey. Abont 2 M. to the S. of Dauntsey station is Bredenstoke or Clack Abbey, incorporat- ing the remains of an Augustine priory of the 12th century. 94 M. Chippenham (Angel; George), with 4618 inhab., is well known for its corn and cheese markets. It also possesses manufac- tures of cloth, churns, and condensed milk. Fine old Norman church. About 31/2 M. to the S. E. of Chippenham (2 M. from Calne) is Bo- wood, the handsome seat of the Marquis of Lansdowne, with a fine col- lection of paintings of all schools. The park is open to the public. To the S. of Chippenham (3 M.) lies Lacock Abbey, founded in 1232 as a nun- nery, but now a private residence. Chippenham is the junction of lines to Calne (51/4 M. to the E. ; Lans- downe Arms) , with important pig -killing and bacon-curing industry, and to Trowbridge^ Westhury (for Weymouth, Salisbury, etc.), Frame, Witham (Wells, etc.), and Yeovil (p. 102). Beyond Chippenham the train follows the pretty valley of the Avon. Near (981/4 M.) Corsham (Methuen Arms) is Corsham Court, the seat of Lord Methuen, containing a valuable collection of pic- tures (upwards of 220, exclusive of family portraits), to which strang- ers are admitted on written application. The train then enters the^ox Tunnel, 13/4M.in length, constructed at a cost of 500,000 i., and near (102 M.) Box, famous for its stone quarries, passes into Somersetshire and re-enters the Avon Valley. — i0l^l2'!A.Bathampton. 107 M. Bath. — Railway Stations. Great Western Station, at the end of Manvers St., on the S. side of the town; Midland Station (for Gloucester, Worcester, Birmint;ham, the Somerset and Dorset line, etc.), in Green Park, to the W. of the town. — Hotel omnibuses meet the chief trains. Hotels. *Grand Pump Room Hotel (PI. a; C, 2), a large establish- ment adjoining the baths; 'York House (PI. b; C, 2), York Buildinjis, quiet ; Lansdowne Grove, near St. Stephen's Church (PI. F, 2); Castle (PI. c; C, 2), Northgate St.; 'Christopher (PL e; C, 3), near the Abbey, commercial, E. & A. 3s. 6c?.; Royal (PL f ; B, 3), Railway (PL g; B, 3), both opposite the G. W. R. Station; Francis' Private Hotel, Queen Square (PL C, 2); Fernley's Temperance (PL h ; B, C, 3), near the Abbey. Cabs. For 2 pers., with 1 horse, is. per mile, 2s. ^d. per hr. ; to certain high levels Qd. extra is charged. Double fare between midnight and 6 a.m. For each package carried outside, 2d. — Bath Chairs, is. per mile or hr. Tramways starting from the G. W, R. station run through some of the principal streets to Orosvenor, on the N. side of the town (fares 2d. and id.). Music. Band twice daily in summer (May to Sept.) in the Victoria Park, Sydney Gardens, OT Instilution Gardens (season-ticket 55.) ; once daily in winter in the Pump Room, where vocal concerts are also given (season ticket IO5.). — Hiiih-class concerts take place in the Assemhli/ Eoom^. Theatre Royal (PL C, 2), Beaufort St. Post Office (PL D, 2), close to the top of Milsom St. Branch post and telegraph oftice, in the High St., opposite the 3Iunicipal Buildings. Bath, the chief place in Somerset, is a handsome town of 51,844 inhab. , beautifully situated in the valley of the Avon and on the slopes of the surrounding hills, and is perhaps unrivalled among provincial English towns for its combination of archaeological, historic, scenic, and social interest. It is a city of crescents and terraces, built in a very substantial manner of a fine yellow limestone (oolite) , and rising tier above tier to a height of about 600 ft. no Route 15. BATH. History. Tradition ascribes the discovery of the springs of Bath to an ancient British prince named Bladud , who was afflicted with leprosy and ob- served their beneficial effects on a herd of swine suffering from' a similar disease. The therapeutic value of the waters did not escape the keen eyes of the bath-loving Romans, who built here a large city, with ex- tensive baths and temples, of which numerous remains have been discovered (comp. p. 111). Their name for it, Aquae Sulis, was taken from a local deity Sul, whom they identified with Minerva. For a century and a half after the departure of the Romans. Bath remained in possession of the Britons, but about 577 it was taken and destroyed by the Saxons, whose name for it was Akemanceaster (from a local corruption of ^^wae. and man = place). At a later date it reappears in history under the name oi Aet Bathum ('at the bath'), and after the Norman Conquest it became the seat of a bishop (1092). The beginning of its modern reputation as a watering-place may be placed about 1650, but it did not reach the zenith of its prosperity till the following cent. , when it became for a time the most fashionable watering-place in England. This was mainly due to the indefatigable exertions of the famous master of the ceremonies, Beau Nash (d. 1761), who introduced order and method into the amusements and customs of the place. Among the innumerable visitors of eminence in the 18th and early 19th cent, may be mentioned Chatham, Pitt, Canning, and Burke, Kelson, Wolfe, and Sir Sidney Smith, Gainsborough and Lawrence, Smol- lett, Fielding, Sheridan, Miss Burney, Goldsmith, Southey, Landor, Miss Austen, Wordsworth, Cowper. Scott, and Moore. Perhaps no other English town of the size has oftener been the theme of literary allusion — from 'Humphrey Clinker" and the 'School for ScandaF down to the 'Papers of the Pickwick Club'. The competition of the Continental Spas and other causes afterwards diverted a great part of the stream of guests, and the 'Queen of all the Spas' subsided into a quiet and aristocratic-looking place, patronised as a residence by retired officers and visited by numer- ous invalids. Of late years , however , Bath has shown marked signs of revival as a fashionable resort. For some time it was an important cloth -making centre, and it is mentioned in connection with this in- dustry in Chaucer's 'Wife of Bath's Tale'. The hot Mineral Springs to which Bath owes its name are what is known as a 'lime carbonated water', and are efficacious in rheumatism, gout, dyspepsia, biliary and liver complaints, and skin- diseases. The daily yield of the springs is upwards of half-a-million gallons. The water, used both for bathing and drinking, rises at a temperature of from 116 to 120° Fahr. , which is reduced, when required , by means of cooled mineral water. The Pump Room [PLC, 2), close to theW. end of the Abbey Church (p. ill), is a large edifice in the classical style , with a motto from Pindar f'Apiaxov [JL£V u6(op3 on the portico. Visitors are admitted free to the Pump Room, as well as to inspect the various baths, etc. The charge for a single glass of the mineral water is Id. At one end of the room is a statue of Beau Nash (see above). A large concert-room and suite of baths were erected in 1893-94 in connection with the pump-room. — Below is a list of the baths, all of which are within a stone's throw of the Pump Room. New Royal Baths, adjoining the Grand Hotel (bath 2s.-35. 6ji M. farther on, a track on the right leads to the Vitiftr Tin Mine and (2 M.) Grimspitmd, a curious enclosure, the object of w hich is uncertain. After 8 M. more we reach Bector, where the road to (2'/'2M.) Chagford diverges to the lett, while that to (3 M.) Moreton Hampstead (p. 130) continues in the same direction. Chagford (Moor Park; Globe; Three Crowns; King's Ai-ms) is a small town with 1500 inhab., conveniently situated for various interesting ex- cursions in Dartmoor (information given by Mr. James Perrott). Among the most attractive spots in the vicinity are Hush/ord Castle (I'/^M. to the N. ; modern), Gidleigh Castle, a Norman ruin (21/-.: ^I- to theN.W.), and Cran- brook Castle (a British camp) and Fingle Bridge (872 and 4 M. to the N.E.). A longer excursion may be made to Castor Rock., the Gidleigh Antiquities^ l^S Route 17. PLYMOUTH. Hotels. and Cranmere Pool^ a round of about 18 M. (7-8 hrs.; guide desirable). The antiquities are spread over a wide area, and include several curious stone circles and avenues, a British slab-bridge, cromlechs, etc. Cranmere Pool (drained) is a lonely hollow surrounded with morasses, and not easily- found without help. The ascent of Cawsand Beacon (p. 135) may be com- bined with this excursion; and those who do not wish to return to Chag- ford may make their way from Cranmere Pool to (8 M.) Lidford, (9 M.) Two Bridges, or (6^/2 M.) Okehampton. From Chagford omnibuses ply twice dally to Moreton Hampstead, once to Yeoford. From Two Bridges (see p. 137) the active pedestrian may explore much of the most characteristic scenery of Dartmoor bv walking due N. to (16 M. ; 7 hrs.) Okehampton (p. 134). The route leads by (6 M.) Cut Hill (1970 ft. ; top marked by a turf mound) and (2 M.) Cranmere Pool (see above); and Yes Tor (2050 ft.; 'p. 134), the highest point in Dartmoor, may be included by a digression to the left. No inn is passed on the way. From Princetown (p. 136) a pleasant route for walkers leads through the S. part of Dartmoor to (14 M.) Ivy Bridge (p. 134). The most inter- esting points passed on the way are the (2V2 M.) Nuns Cross, a granite cross, 71/2 ft. high, (5 M.) Erme Pound, and the (21/2 M.) Three Barrows (1524 ft.), a line point of view. Beyond Tavistock the L. S. W. R. runs considerably to the W. of the G. W. R. — 48V2 M. Beer Alston, 1 M. from Calstock (p. 142). Beyond (51 Y-2 M.) Beer Ferris we cross the Tavy and skirt the E. bank of the Tamar(i^. 141). To the right is the Royal Albert Bridge (p. 141). 553/4 M. St. Budeaux (for Saltash, p. 142) ; 57 M. Ford ; 58 M. Devonport (see p. 141). We then pass the suburban stations of Mutley and North Road and enter the Friary Terminus at (621/2 M.) Plymouth. — Some trains go on to Plymstock (omnibus to Modbury. 9 M.), Oresion, and (10 min.) Turnchapel. Plymouth. — Hotels. Duke of Cornwall (PI. a; D, 8), opposite Mill Bay Terminus: Royal (Pl.b; D,3), Millbay Road, near the station; 'Grand (PL c; D. 3), finelv situated on the Hoe, the only hotel with a view of the Sound, R. & A. 5s.; Albion (PI. e; D, 3), Millbay Road; Globe (PI. m; E, 2), Bedford St.; Lockyer's Hotel & Restaurant; West- minster, Princess Sq., Mount Pleasant (PI. f; D, 3), adjoining the Duke of Cornwall, unpretendins, these two are temperance hotels. ' Chubbs (PI. g; E, 2), Old Town St.; Farlets (PI. h; D, 2), Union St. — In Devonport: Royal (PI. j), Thomas's (PI. k), both in Fore St. (PI. A, 2). — In Stone- house: Brunswick. — Matthew's Restaurant, 11 Bedford St., table-dhote 1-8 p.m. 2s. Qd. ; Raihcay Refreshment Rooms at the principal stations. Cabs. Under 1 M., 1-2 pers. 8d., 3-4 pers. Is. ; each addit. V2M. 4d. or 6 ^tc Theatres. Grand Theatre, Union St. (PLC, 2), Stonehouse; Theatre Royal (PL D, 3), in the same building as the Royal Hotel. Railway Stations. 1. Millbay Station (PL D, 3), terminus of the G. W. R., near the Docks and the Hoe; 2. Friary Station (PL F, 2), terminus of the L. S. W. R., in the W. of Plymouth; 3. North Road Station (PL E, 1), in the N. suburb, a joint station of both lines ; 4. Devonport and Stone- house Station (PL B. 2), belonging to the L.S.W.R.; 5. Cornwall Station (PL B, 1), of the G.W.R., at Devonport; 6. Mutley Station (PL E, 1), G.W.R., see above; 7. Ford Station, L.S.W.R., see above. Steamers. To London (15s., lis.) and Southampton thrice weekly; to % ^s^. The Hoe. PLYMOUTH. 17. Route. 139 Portsmouth, Falmouth (5s., Ik$.),Dnhlin. Glasgow (25«., 12s. 6f7.), twice weekly; to Newhaven (15.«f., 75. 6(i.l, Cork (20«., 1U«.), Wattrford, Belfast^ Bristol, once weekly, etc. — Tu the Channel Islamjls, see p. 84. — Liners also call here to and from Australia (Orient Line), Xew Zealand, ^oulh Africa, etc. — Excursion Steamers (Rowe's , etc.) ply in summer at frequent intervals, and at moderate fares, to the Breakwater, Ml. Edycumhe. Eddystone Light- house, the Tamar, the Yealm, etc. — Ferries from the Admiral's Hard (PL B, 3) to Cremill (Mt. Edgcumbe); from Mutton Cove (PL A, 3) to Cremill; from the Barbican (PI. E, 3) to Turnchapel and Oreston ; from Ferry Road (PL A, 2) to Torpoint. Fares Id. or 2d. Also, from North Corner (PL A, 2) to Saltash, at 30 min. past each hour. Post Office, in Guildhall Sq. — U. S. Consul, Mr. Joseph J. Stevens. Chief Attractions. The Hoe (see below); Devonport Dockyard (p. 141); Breakwater (p. 140); Mt. Edgcumbe (p. 141); trip up the Tamar (p. 141); Eddystone Lighthouse (p. 142; for good sailors only); Barbican (p. 140j; Municipal Buildings and Guildhall (p. 14U) ; the Museum (p. 140); the collection of drawings in Plymouth Library (p. 140). Plymouth, Stonehouse, and Devonport, the 'Three Towns', with a joint population of ahout 190,000, together form one of the most important seaports in England, thanks to the Sound, in which the largest vessels can ride safely at anchor, and to the excellent harbours afforded by its arms, the Cattewater, or mouth of the Plym, Sutton Pool, and the Hamoaze, or estuary of the Tamar. Plymouth was first fortified in the 14th cent., and it is now a stronghold of the first class, its defences including a girdle of outlying forts. The various barracks can accommodate a garrison of 5000 men. Plymouth has long been known as one of the chief naval and mer- cantile harbours of Great Britain, and it witnessed the departure of many of the most noted expeditions of Drake, Hawkins, Cook, and other famous mariners. Lord Howard of Effingham sailed hence to encounter the Armada (1588), and here the Mayflower set sail for America on Sept. 6th, 1620 (comp. p. 80). In the Civil War Plymouth held out for the Parliament- arians when all the rest of Devon and Cornwall was in the hands of the Royalists and defended itself successfully during a siege of four years. It was also the first large town to proclaim William of Orange king. The town now carries on a considerable trade with the West Indies, South America, Australia, the Cape, the Baltic, and the Mediterranean, and numerous large merchant vessels are almost always to be seen in the Cattewater. The chief exports are copper, lead, "tin, granite, marble, china-clay, bricks, and fish. Many of the emigrant ships for Australia, New Zealand, and British North America start from Plymouth. The Hamoaze is reserved for men-of-war. On the sea-front of the town is the*Hoe(Pl. D, E, 3), an elevat- ed promenade commanding an admirable view of the Sound. In the middle of it rises a Statue of Sir Francis Drake (p. 136), who is said to have been playing bowls here when news was brought him tliat the Armada was in sight (see Kingsley's ' Westward Ho /', chap. xxx). The statue , erected in 1884, is a replica of that at Tavistock (p. 136). Close by is the Armada Tercentenary Memorial. erected in 1890. To the E. is the upper part of Smeaton's original Eddystone Lighthouse (adm. Id.) , re-erected here in 188'2-84 (comp. p. 143). The *View from the top is very extensive, in- cluding (on a clear day") the Eddystone Lighthouse, 14 M. to the S. Beyond Smeaton's Tower is the Citadel (PI. E, 3), erected in 1670, and now somewhat out of date as a fortress (view from the ram- no Route 17. PLYMOUTH. The Syund. parts). Outside its walls is a Marine Laboratory, opened in 1888, with an aquarium below. Below the Hoe are a fine Promenade Pier (adm. Id. ; hand) and the Bathing Places for ladies and gentlemen. The *Sound, or roadstead of Plymouth, about 3 sq. M. in ex- tent, is one of the finest bays on the S. coast of England. In the middle lies the small fortified St. Nicholas or Brake's Island (PI. C, D, 4). To the W. rises Mount Edgcumbe (p. 141). To the E. is the rocky islet of Mewstone. On the S. side the entrance to the Sound is defended by the * Breakwater, a stupendous piece of gra- nite masonry, 1 M. in length , constructed in 1812-40 at a cost of 1.580, 000 i. The top forms a pleasant promenade, and it may be reached from Plymouth by an excursion-steamer (Qd. ; landing in boat Id.) or by small boat [about 2s.). At the W. end is a small Lighthouse, the top of which affords a good view (small gratuity to the keeper). Just inside the Breakwater is a circular fort like those at Portsmouth (p. 56). The entrance to the Cattewater (PI. F, 4) is also sheltered by a breakwater. 1000 ft. long, projecting from Mount Batten Point. 'Kitchen Middens' found here prove the existence of a prehistoric population near Plymouth. From the back of the Citadel we may descend to the quaint bit of old Plymouth known as the Barbican, which lies on the edge of Sutton Pool ['P\.E,Y, 3). The 'Dutch auctions' of fish here are amusing. On the ground in front of the Custom House is a slab and on the adjoining wall is an inscription, placed here in 1891 to commemorate the departure of the 'Mayflower' (p. 139) in 1620. — Ferry across the Cattewater, see p. 139. We next make our way through Southside St., Notte St., and St. Andrew's St. to the Churcli of St. Andrew (PI. E, 2), dating from the 15th cent., and restored by Sir G. G. Scott in 1874-75. It contains some interesting monuments. Adjoining the church is a Perp. building named the Prysten House. — The church faces Guildhall Sq., on the right side of which are the Municipal Offices and on the left the Guildhall, two handsome modern Gothic edifices. The fine hall in the latter. 148 ft. long, is adorned with stained-glass windows representing scenes from the town's history (including the Departure of the Pilgrims). The Mayor s Parlour, on the other side, contains a portrait (with quaint inscriptions) of Sir Francis Drake (1545-96), 'fellow traveller of the Sunn', who once sat for Ply- mouth in Parliament and presented the town with the aqueduct, which supplies it with water from Dartmoor, 24 M. distant. — The fourth side of the square is occupied by the Post Office (PI. E, 2). Among the other objects of interest in Plymouth are the building comprising the Royal Hotel and the Theatre (Pl.D, 3), with an Ionic por- tico; the Roman Catholic Cathedral (PI. D. 2): the Home of the Sisters of Mercy, North Road; the Clock Tower, at the junction of George St. and Lockyer St.: the Athenaeum (PI. D, 3), containing a museum and a gal- lery of art; the Plymouth Library, Cornwall Sfr., near the Market (PI. E, 2), with a line collection of prints and drawings (Da Vinci, Rubens, Ruysdiel, Correggio, etc) and three paintings by Reynolds (open on Mon. ; Devonport. PLYMOUTH. 17. Route. 141 at other times on application to the librarian). — George SI. Baptist Chapel occupies the site of the huilding in which the 'Pilgrim Fathers' were entertained hefore setting sail. Stonehouse (PI. C, 3, 4) is the seat of the *Royai William Vic- tualling Yard, a huge establishment for the victualling of the navy, constructed in 1835 at an outlay of 1 ,500,000^ and covering 14 acres of ground. The gateway (Durnford St.) is surmounted by a colos- sal figure of William IV. Visitors are admitted during working hours and are escorted by a police-constable. The bakehouse and the cooperage are of special interest. From two to three million pounds of salt-meat are always kept on hand in this yard, and the other stores are in like proportions. — To the N. stands the Royal Naval Hospital (JP\.G, 2), which has accommodation for 1200 patients. In Durnford St. are the Royal Marine Barracks (PI C, 3), with room for 1500 men (handsome mess-room); and at the back of them are the Great Western Docks. Devonport (PI. A, B, 2, 3), situated to the W. of Plymouth, and at a considerably higher elevation, is the headquarters of the naval and military offlcials, and is the most fashionable part of the town for residences. (Tramway, seep. 138, ending close to the entrance to the Dockyard; boat from the Adrnirais Hard, PI. B, 3, 2d. or 3rf.)- The *Dockyard (PI. A, 2, 3) resembles that at Portsmouth (p. 56), but is not so large (visitors admitted at 10, 11, 2, 3, and 4; special order requisite for the Eopery) ; it affords regular employment to about 3000 workpeople. To the N. of the Dockyard is the Gun Wharf (PI. A, 2), and beyond that is the Keyham Steam Yard (P\. A, 1), a most imposing establishment with huge steam-docks and a steam hammer capable of striking with a force of 100 tons. The finest private houses are in Higher Stoke. The blockhouse at the top of Stoke Hill commands an excellent view, and so does the top of the Devonport Column (PI. A, 2; 125 ft.). Mt. Wise is a fine promen- ade, with parade-ground and batteries. Excursions from Plymouth. 1. Strangers should not omit a visit to *Mount Edgcumbe, the seat of the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe, which is reached by the ferry from Ad- miral's Hard (fare 2d. or 3d.) to Cremill (PI. A, 4; 3l"t. Edgcumbe Arms); excursion-steamers also ply to Cuicmnd (Kings Arms), in Cawsand Bay, opposite the Breakwater. The house itself i*! not shown, but the park is open to the public on Wed. (on t>ther days by special permission obtained at the Manor Office, Emma Place, Stonehouse). The "Park, which occupies the whole peninsula between the Sound and the Hamoaze, contains magni- ficent trees and is traversed by beautiful walks. Camellias and palms grow here in the open air. The Gardens (special order necessary) are tastefully laid out in the Italian, the French, and the English styles, and include a large orangery. A visit to Mt. Edgcumbe requires at least 2 hrs. ; guide to the chief points Is. 6(i. 2. Btj the Tamar to Weir Head. This excursion may be accomplished by steamer (return -fare is. 6(f . ; half- a- day) or by a boat chartered for the occasion (a day). The Tamar ("great water') separates Devon from Cornwall. Passing throutrh the Hamoaze, we reach the actual mouth of the Tamar, 3 M. to the N.W., which is crossed by the -Royal Al- 142 Route 17. PLYMOUTH. bert Bridge of the G.W.E. line to Cornwall. This gigantic iron structure, 750 yds. long, 10 yds. wide, and 100 ft. above the water, was built by Brunei in 1859 and cost 250,000^. The two chief arches have each a span of 450 ft. The tubular principle (comp. p. 293) has also been adopted here , but the train runs on a roadway suspended from the tubes. Considerable difficulty was experienced in its construction owing to the depth of the water (65 ft.), and the foundations of the piers are 20 ft. below the bottom. At the W. end of the bridge lies Saltash f ff rce« Dragon)^ a quaint-looking fishing-town (2745inhab.), whence visitors may walk on to the bridge (3d.). The women of Saltash are famous for their rowing, often beating the men at regattas. Ferry to St. Budeaux, see p. 188. Coaches to Callington, see p. 136. Beyond the bridge the Tamar again expands, and at high water resembles a" beautiful lake. To the N.W. the Great Mis Tor (p. 137) is visible. The second branch to the right is the Tavy. To the left, opposite the mouth of the Tavy, is Landulph., in the church of which is buried Theodore Paleologtis (d. 1637), a scion of a famous race. On the left, 4 M. above Saltash, is Pentillie Castle^ with beautiful grounds. At Cotehele^ 2' 2 M. farther on, the river is very narrow. Cotehele House, a Tudor mansion, with a fine baronial hall and interesting old tapestry and furniture, is generally open to visitors. The river now makes a bend to the right and reaches Calstock ( Ashburton Hotel) and Morwellham Quay (Ship Inn). Time for tea is generally allowed at Calstock by the steamers. Fine view from Calstock church. The most picturesque part of the river begins here, the *Morwell Rocks rising precipitously to a height of3(X)ft. The steamers rarely get quite so far as Weir Head (about 20 M. from Ply- mouth), but there is much fine river-scenery farther on, which may be visited by small boat. 3. To St. Germans and Port Eliot, 10 M. This excursion is made by boat on the St. Germans River or Lynher Creek, which diverges from the Hamoazeto the left, below Saltash. On the right, 2M. from Saltash, laTrema- lon Castle .1 the grounds of which are open to the public on Wednesdays. Opposite (ferry Id.) is Antony House , situated in a fine park , and con- taining a good collection of pictures (special permission necessary). Farther up, the river is luxuriantly wooded. St. Germans (Eliot Arms), a station on the G. W. R., possesses a Church (restored in 1894) showing an in- teresting mixture of the Norman (doorway), E. E., and Perp. styles. St. Germans was the seat of the old Cornish bishopric, and the names of 12 bishops are preserved in the church. Close by is Port Eliot, the seat of Earl St. Germans, with a park to which visitors are admitted by the gardener. 4. To Oreston Quarries and Saltram, 4 M., a charming small-boat trip on the Catfewater. Saltram House, the seat of the Earl of Morley, contains a fine collection of pictures, including 16 portraits by Sir Joshua Reynolds and specimens of Titian, Rubens, and Correggio. Visitors re- quire an order from the Earl. The finely-wooded park is open to the public on Mondays. This excursion may be combined with the following by walking from Saltram to Plym Bridge and Marsh Mills (see below). 5. To (he Vale of Bickleigh. This excursion is most conveniently be- gun at Marsh Mills (p. 136), whence we may walk through the narrow wooded valley to (41/2 M.) Bickleigh (p. 136). The road through the vale is not open except on Mon., Wed., and Saturdays. To the right is Bo- ringdon House, lying high and commanding a wide view. Beyond Bick- leigh the walk may be extended to Shaugh Prior, the valley of the Cad, and the villages of Meavy and Sheeps Tor (comp. p. 136). 6. To Eame Head and Whitesand Bay. This excursion is best made by taking the excursion -steamer to Cawsand (p. 141), which is about 2 M. from *Rame Head, the southernmost promontory of the peninsula on which Mt. Edgcumbe stands. Whitesand Bay, with its fine sandy beach and background of clififs (bathing dangerous), extends in a beautiful curve from Rame Head to Looe Island. Walkers may return to Cremill (p. 141). either by the coast via Penlee Point and Cawsand (6 M.) or via Millbrook (4 M.). 7. To Eddy stone Lighthouse, 14 M. Excursion-steamers ply frequently LISKEARD. 18. Route. 143 to the lighthouse in summer, but passengers are seldom landed. The first lighthouse erected here in 1697 was washed away six years after its com- pletion; the second, of wood, was burned down in 1755. The third, or Smeaton's Lighthouse, a tower of masonry, 95 ft. high, stood here from 1757 to 1882, but had then to be removed, owing to the insecurity of its base (comp. p. 139). The pre.sent lighthouse, 135 ft. in height, was built by Sir J. N. Douglass, at a cost of 80,000/. The light-keepers are three in number, each of whom has a month''s holiday in summer. From Plymouth to Truro and Penzance^ see R. 18. — Dartmoor^ see p. 136. 18. From Plymouth to Truro and Penzance. Falmouth. BOM. G.W.RAiLWATin3-4hrs. (fare8l3«.3d.,8«. 4(i., ^s.l^l^d.). Trains start from Millbay Station (p. 138) and stop again at the Devonport Station, The line is remarkable for its numerous lofty viaducts. — Steamboats also ply at intervals from Plymouth to Falmouth and Penzance. The county of Cornwall, which this railway traverses, offers much to interest, the chief attraction being the grand rocky scenery of the coast near the Land's End. The climate is exceedingly mild; myrtles and certain kinds of palms thrive luxuriantly in the open air, while orange-trees and vines only require the protection of matting in winter. The average tem- perature in winter is 50", in summer GO" Fahr. The great economical importance of Cornwall arose from its rich mines of copper, tin, lead, and silver; but foreign competition has for some years past closed many mines. The tin-mines of Cornwall were worked by the Phoenicians long before the Christian era. The maximum production of copper ore in Cornwall and Devon was reached in 1861, when 180,000 tons, worth upwards of 1,000,000/., were brought to the surface. Nowadays, it has been said, one must go to Nevada to see Cornish miners. The pilchard and other lisheries are also important. The Celtic origin (if the inhabitants is still often perceptible in their dark hair and complexions. Their ancient language, closely akin and to Breton Welsh, is now extinct. The last person who spoke it is said to have died in 1777 (see p. 149) ; but the Rev. W. S. Lach Szyrma in his 'Short History of Penzance' states that he found two or three persons in Mousehole who could count up to 20 in old Cornish. The prefixes 'Tre\ 'PoF, and 'Pen', which occur so frequently in names, mean 'dwelling', 'pool', and 'summit' or 'head'. Several books in Cornish are extant. Cornwall is famous for its 'squab" and other pasties, made out of such heterogeneous materials that the devil, accord- ing to a local proverb, will not enter the county for fear of being put into a pie. The Prince of Wales bears the title of Duke of Cornwall, and has valuable estates in the county. — Geological travellers should procure Sir Henry de la Beche^s 'Geology of Cornwall, Devon, and West Somerset'. Soon after leaving Devonport (p. 141) the train crosses the Tamar by the Royal Albert Bridge (p. 141 ; *View), and reaches (4'/2 M.) Saltash (p. 142). The line skirts the Lynher, a scene of great beauty at high tide. d^/oM. St. Germans (p. 142); 14'/2 ^I- Menheniot (omn. twice daily to Looe; 7 M. ; is. Gd.). 18 M. Liskeard (Webb's, on the Parade; Stag), a small town with 3984 inhab., is a good centre for a fe^v pleasant excursions. On the coast, 8 M. to the S., is Looe (Ship), a small seaport, embowered in myrtles and other exotics. It may be reached bv a narrow-iiauge line in 1 hr. from Moorswafer, 1V« M. to the W. of Liskeard. The road (9 M.) skirts a canal and passes St. Keynes Well, the subject of a ballad by Southey. About 4 M. to the W. of Looe lies Polperro ("Oliver's Tourist; Ship), perhaps the quaintest and most characteristic of Cornish fishing- villages, tightly wedged into a narrow ravine, beyond which we may follow the road to the W. (no coast-path) to (6M.) Bodennick ferry, opposite Fowey (p. 144). — To the N. a picturesque walk of about 7 M. may be taken from 144 Route 18. TRURO. From Plymouth Liskeard to (2^4 M.) St. Cleer (with remains interesting to the anti- quarian), the (3',4 51) ffurlers, three stone circles, and the (1 M.) DeviVs Cheesewring (i.e. cheese-press), a curious pile of granite rocks. 30 ft. high. Ahout 1 M. to the E. of St. Cleer is Trevethy's Cromlech. — At St. Neofs (Carlyon Arms), 0V2 M. to the N.W. of Liskeard, is a f5ne Perp. church of 14S0, with celebrated stained-glass windows of the 14-15th cent. (comp. below). Between St. Neots and the Cheesewring is Dozmare Fool, the lake into which King Arthur is said to have thrown Excalibur (p. 1.56). The Cornish man-demon Tregeagle is condemned to empty the pool with a limpet-shell, a penalty for unjust stewardship when in his human form. — Coach from Liskeard to (18 M.) Tavistock, see p. 136. Beyond Liskeard the train crosses the lofty Moorswater Viaduct and reaches (2i M.) Doublebois. Several viaducts. 27 M. Bodmin Road (Rail. Restaurant), on the Fowey, is the junction of a branch- line to (III/4M.) Wadebridge (p. 154; coach to Padstow). The train now turns to the S. , passes, on the right, Lanhydrock, the seat of Lord Robartes (visitors admitted), and Rest ormel Castle^ built in the reign of Henry IlL, and reaches (301/2 ^^O Losticithiel (Royal Talbot) , a small town on the Fowey. It is a good trout- flshing centre and possesses a fine church-steeple, surmounted by an open-work lantern. The sj-cal led *Pa7ace of the Dukes of Corn- walV is interesting to antiquarians. — 35 M. Par (Royal), ^ith silver smelting- works and china- clay works , is the junction of railways to Newquay on the N. (p. 154), and to (4M.") Fowey on the S. From Par to Fowet, 4 M., railway in 20 min., via St.Blazey., the junc- tion for (21 3L) Xewquay (see p. 154). — Fowey (Fow^y Hotel; Ship; Si. Catharine House, private hotel), pron. ^Foy\ which has been described as a 'miniature Dartmouth", is a small seaport, with a picturesque harbour, at the mouth of the Fowey. The 'Gallants of Fowey' in the 14th cent, are said to have helped largely in the foundation of England's naval greatness before the time of Drake and the other 'Sea-dogs of Devon'. — To Polperro and Looe, see p. 143. The beauty of the district now traversed is marred by numerous mines and the white refuse of kaolin, or china-clay, which is found here in great abundance. 40 M. Si. Austell (White Hart; Globe) is a busy little mining-town. The handsome church is in good preservation ; and its exterior , together with the interior of St. Neot's (see above), aifords a good idea of a Cornish mediaeval church. About 3 M. to the N. rises Hensbarrow Beacon (1030 ft. ; view), which Carew (1602) calls the 'Archbeacon of Cornwall' ('Survey of Cornwall"; p. 138). — 47 M. Grampound Road, the sta- tion for (272^1') Probus, with a fine church-tower, and (4 M.) Tregony. Near Truro we cross two long viaducts. 54 M. Truro (*Red Lion, R. & A. 3s. Qd. ; *Royal), the mining capital of Cornwall, is an ancient town with 11,131 inhab., situated at the head of a pretty creek of the Fat. In 1877 it became the sea of the resuscitated bishopric of Cornwall, and a handsome E. E. Cathedral, by Pearson, is being erected on the site of the old church of St. Mary , a part of which fPerp.) has been incorporated in the new building (S. side of choir). The E. end and transepts were consecrated in 1887; the nave has yet to be built. The Bap- to Penzance. FALMOUTH. 18. Route. 145 tistery is a memorial of Henry Martyn (1781-1812), the missionary, a native of Truro. — The * Museum ( adra. Gd. ; free on Wed. 11-5) contains Cornu-British antiquities and Cornish birds. The Red Lion Hotel, dating from 1671, was the birthplace of Samuel Foots (1720-77), the actor and playwright. Among the interesting points near Truro are the grounds of (3 M.) Tre'jothnan, on the E. Lank of the Fal ; the ancient ruined church of St. Firan^ 8 M. to the N.W., long hidden by the sand which had been bbtwn over it, and believed to be the oratory where St. Piranus officiated in the 6th cent. ; and the Isnioc Cross, at St. Clemeni's, IV2 M. to the S.E. Numerous pleasant excursions may be made on the Fal (to Falmouth, see below), and omnibuses ply to Probus, St. Agnes, etc. From Truro to Falmouth, II1/2M., railway in 20-30 mi n. (fares 2*., Is. 3d., is.). Near (5 M.) Perranwell is the country-seat of CarcUw, with fine gardens containing many exotic plants. — 9 M. Fenryn (King's Arms), at the head of Fenryn Creek (view to the left), carries on an extensive trade in granite and contains some traces of the once famous Glasney Abbey. An omnibus [^Is.) plies hence to (iU 31.) Helston (p. 146). [A much pleasanter way of proceeding from Truro to Falmouth is by the little steamer which plies up and down the Fal every day in sum- mer (10 M., in l'/4 hr, ; fare Is.). For the first 2 M. we descend what is known as Truro Lake or River, a ramification of the Fal. On entering the Fal proper we have Tregothnan (see above) to the left, while farther on the woods of Trelissick cover the bank to the right. The steamer then reaches the Carrick Road, or wider part of the Fal estuary, passes the mouth of Restronguet Creek (to the right), and enters Fenryn Creek, at the mouth of which Falmouth lies.] Falmouth {Falmouth, Fendennis, both on the neck of the peninsula, near the station, with a sea-view both to the back and front; "Oreen Bank, IV2 M. to the N.W. of the station and 3/4 M. from the landing-stage, with a view of the harbour, R. & A. 4s., table dhote As.Qd.; Royal, in the town, well spoken of), a small and somewhat foreign-looking seaport with 4787 inhab., was formerly an important mail-packet station, but is now chiefly known as a watering-place. It is still, however, a port of call for vessels waiting for orders and for yachts. U. S. Consul, Howard For, Esq., 48 Arwenack St. The scenery of the estuary of the Fal is very picturesque, and charming water-excursions may be taken in Falmouth Harbour (sailing -boat 2s., row-boat Is, per hr.). In fine weather ex- cursion-steamers ply to the Lizard, Penzance, etc., and trips are also made by sailing-yachts. Falmouth has bi-weekly steamboat communication with London (I'/'j day) , Dublin, etc. The bathing is good. Palms and other tropical plants grow here in the open air without protection, and the visitor should try to obtain access to one of the lovely private gardens. The chief object of interest at Falmouth is Pendennis Castle, an old Tudor fastness at the E. extremity of the peninsula on v^hich the town stands (2/4 M. from the station). It is celebrated for its siege in the Civil War and is still maintained as a fortress. The 'View from it is very fine. A pleasant drive has been constructed round the promontory, passing below the castle. On the opposite side of the estuary (steam-ferry; return -fare BVW.) is Si. Maices Castle, another coast-defence erected by Henry VIII. — On the way to Pendennis we pass the remains of Arwenack House, the seat of the once powerful but now extinct family of the Killigrew^ (memorial obelisk in front). Excursions may also be made to (2 31.) Fenfyn (see above), at the head of Penryn Creek, and to Flush- ing (ferry '/ati?., starting behind the GreenBank Hotel) on itsN. bank, whence we may walk across the hill to Mylor, on Carrick Road (see above). A coach plies daily in summer from Falmouth to Fenryn and (12'/2 31. ; fare 2s. 6t/.) Helston (see p. 146), where it corresponds with coaches for the (11 31.) Lizard and (13 31.) Penzance (see p. 148). The direct road from Falmouth to the Lizard (18 31.) leads by Oweek, at the head of the Hel- ford Estuary, and through Trelowarren Park (carr. and pair 30s.; driver 5s.); Baedekers Great Britain. 4th Edit. 10 146 Route 18. REDRUTH. From Plymouth in the season a four-horse brake runs by this route from Falmouth to Lizard Town and Kynance Cove (see p. 147). Near Trelowarren House is a very singular series of underground chambers, a standing puzzle to archaeologists. The coast-route (for pedestrians; about 25 M.) leads via (2 M.) MaenpoT-th, (2 M.) Mawnan Smith, (2 M.) Helford Passage (ferry), (1 M.) Manaccan, and (4 M.) St. Keverne (Inn), and thence by the cliffs to (31/2 M.) Coverack., (2 M.) Black Head, (4 M.) Poltesco (serpentine works), (I M.) Cadgwith (p. 147), and (3 M.) Lizard Town (p. 147). The direct walk- ing distance from Helford Passage to Lizard Town, via Newtown, is 10 M. At (59 M.) Chacewater we cross the valley by a Mgh wooden viaduct. In the distance, to the N.W., rises St. Agnes's Beacon (630 ft.). 63 M. Redruth (Tail's; London), a market-town with 10,300 inhab., is a chief centre of the tin-mining industry. The Hunt Memorial Museum contains minerals. About II/4M. to the S.E. is Owennap Pit^ a grassy amphitheatre in the side of Cam Marth, where Wesley used to preach to the miners ; open-air meetings of 20-30,000 Wesleyans still occasionally take place here. — Near (65 M.) Cam Brea Station, to the left, rises Carnlrea Hill (750 ft.), with British remains and a curious old castle or house perched on the top. 66 M. Camlorne (Abraham's; Commercial), a mining town with 14,700 inhabitants. The Dolcoath Copper Mine here is 2250 ft. deep. — From (681/2 M.) Givinear Road a branch-line runs to (8 M.) Helston (Angel; Star), the usual starting-point for a visit to the interesting coast-scenery of the Lizard (see below). Coaches run hence to Falmouth (p. 145), to (11 M.) the Lizard (see below; fare 2s., return Ss. Qd.), and to (13 M.) Penzance (p. 148; fare 2s.). The name *Lizard (Cornish, Meneage') is given to the whole peninsula S. of a line drawn from Gweek, at the head of Helford River, to Looe Pool, but is more specially applied to the town and headland at its S. extremity. The peninsula is an elevated plateau, descend- ing in cliffs to the sea, and its interior is as unattractive as its coast scenery is the reverse. The rare and beautiful Cornish heath, Erica Vagans, grows here in abundance. Tourists usually proceed direct from Helston to Lizard Town, and make the latter the centre of their excursions, but those with leisure should spend a night both at Mullyon on the W. and Cadgwith on the E. — The road from Helston to (11 M.) Lizard Town is uninteresting. About halfway the prettily-situated mansion of Bochym is passed on the right. Good walkers, with time to spare, will prefer to follow the coast (15 M.), the chief points of interest on which are (2/4 M.) Looe Pool; 2 M. Looe Bar, formed of pebbles cast up by the sea (supposed to be caused by Tregeagle, p. 144); 31/2 M. Gunwalloi, with a church of the 15th cent. ; 1/2 M. Poljew Cone (Hotel projected). Mullyon (Old Inn; King's ATms)"lies about 1 M. inland. The Perp. church has some features of interest, including some remarkable carved oaken pews. We return to the coast at (3/4 M.) Polurrian Cove (Polurrian Hotel), or at (1 M. ; 21/2 M. direct from Gunwalloe) *Mullyon Cove to Penzance. THE LIZARD. 18. Route. 147 and Cave; the cave, which is entered by a beautiful natural archway, may be penetrated at low tide for 200 ft. (fine view from within). It was once a great resort of smugglers. Continuing to follow the cliff-walk (coast-guard route marked by white paint) , we pass the bold headlands of Pradanack Head and Vellan Head and reach (5 M.) *Kynance Cove (small lodging-houses ; refreshments), one of the most celebrated points on the Cornish coast. The serpentine cliffs here are beautifully veined and roloured, and numerous pic- turesque rocks are scattered about the little bay, with its floor of silvery sand. Various more or less appropriate names have been given to the different features of the Cove, such as Steeple Rock and Gull Rock. On Asparagus Island , the semi-detached pro- montory on the W. side of the Cove , is the BeviVs Bellows , a narrow interstice formed by one rock overlying another, through which the water is propelled in clouds of spray (seen to advant- age at low tide only). Adjacent is the Letter Box, a curious fissure in the rock. The cave in Asparagus Island is known as the Devil's Throat; those on the mainland are called the Kitchen and Par- lour. Geologists will notice that the action of the sea causes the granite to cleave in cubes, while the serpentine assumes the most varied forms. From Kynance Cove we may either proceed direct to (l'/4M.) Lizard Town, on theE. side of the promontory, or continue our walk round the coast to the (2^ 2 -^^O Lighthouses (open to visitors, except onMon. and after the lamps are lit; fine view), on Lizard Head, the most southerly point in England (49° 57' 30" N. lat.). On the way we pass Pistol Meadow, so called from the weapons cast up by the sea after the wreck of a man-of-war at the beginning of last century, and the little harbour of Polpeor. Farther on are the columnar Bumble Rock and the Lions Den , formed by the falling in of the roof of a cavern in the cliffs. The Lighthouses are about 1/2 M. from Lizard Town. Lizard Town (^Hill's Lizard Hotel, R. & A. 2s. Qd.- Eddy's; Housel Bay Hotel; Mrs. Rowes Boarding House, and several others, on the promontory, with sea-view), a small village, is frequented as summer-quarters. The bathing-place is at Housel Cove, to the E. of the lighthouses. The church of the Lizard, the southernmost church in England, is at Landewednack, a little to the E. Serpen- tine is freely used here as building material. The Raven Hugo (or Ogo"), Dolor Hugo, and other caverns on the E. coast are best explored by boat. — Cadgwith (*Star), 2^ o -^I- to the E. of Lizard Town, is chiefly visited for the sake of the Devil's Frying Pan, a singular natural amphitheatre somewhat resembling the Lion's Den. The coast between Cadgwith and Helford River is also very fine, though not so much frequented by tourists (comp. p. 146). Those who have come to Lizard Town by the E. coast, and have not time to follow the whole of the W. coast of the peninsula, are recom- mended to visit the Lighthouses and go on thence to Kynance Cove, Mull- yon Cove, and Mullyon , in time to catch the afternoon coach from Li- 10* 148 Route 18. ST. lYES. From Plymouth zard Town to Helston , which passes the cross-roads IV2 to the E. (in- land) of Mullyon. This will be in all a walk of 91/2 M. The coast-guard path all round the coast is clearly marked by whitewash on stones and rocks, at intervals of 50 yds. or less. The Coach Route from Helston to (13 M.) Penzance (see below; fare 2s.) calls for little remark, except that a good view of St. Mi- chael's Mt. (see below) is enjoyed towards the end. Walkers, how- ever, will find the coast-route (20 M.) interesting; no inn between (372 M-) Porthleoen and (17 M.) Marazion (see below). Continuation of the Railway. 71 M. Eayle (White Hart), with engine-works. 73 M. St. Erth is the junction of a line to (4 M.) St. /ves, via Lelant and C arb is Bay [UoteV), the latter agolflng-resort. St. Ives {"Tregenna Castle, charmingly situated above the station, with view, R. .&A. 3s., table d'hote 3s. 6(i. ; *RedLion, small, at the pier, R. & A. 3s.), decidedly the quaintest and perhaps the most beautiful little village in all Devon, lies in a narrow and richly-wooded combe, descending ab- ruptly to the sea. It consists of one main street, or rather a main staircase, with a few houses climbing on each side of the combe so far as the narrow space allows. The houses, each standing on a higher or lower level than its neighbour, are all whitewashed, with gay green doors and lattices, and the general effect is curiously foreign- looking. Clovelly is a Paradise for artists, and exquisite subjects for sketches present themselves at every corner. One of the most characteristic views is that looking down the main street, with the sea far below and in the background. The views from the quaint little pier and (better still) from the sea , with the pier in the foreground, are also very striking. The foundations of the cottages at the lower end of the village are hewn out of the liv- ing rock. The New Inn , which contains an interesting collection of china, is often full in summer and it is advisable to telegraph for rooms beforehand. Otherwise visitors may have to put up with the clean but lowly accommodation of a fisherman's cottage. Clovelly, heing the only harbour in Bideford Bay, W. of the Taw, has long been an important herring -fishing place. Its name occurs in Domesday, and some authorities even maintain that there was a Roman station here and that the name is a corruption of 'Clausa Vallis\ After familiarising himself with the quaint beauties of Clovelly, not forgetting to explore the 'back-staircases', the tourist makes his way to the *Hobby Drive, an avenue 3 M. in length , affording at intervals charming views of land and sea, including the coast of South Wales (adm. 6d., weekly ticket Is.; carr. Is. 6d., with two horses 2s. ; closed on Sun.). We enter the drive by the New Road Gate (see above) and emerge at the other end on the Bideford road, near the 8th milestone from Bideford. We may vary the route in returning by following this road to (8/4 M.) Clovelly Cross (see above), to Bide ford. HARTLAND TOWN. 20. Route. 159 and visiting the adjacent circular earth-works known as Clovelly Dikes or Ditchen Hills (extensive view). Hohby Drive belongs to the OY/nex of Clovelly Court, the grounds immediately surrounding which are entered by Yellery Gate, op- posite the New Road Gate and a little farther to the W. (adm. 6d. ; closed on Tues. and Sat., but open free on Sun.). The walk along the seaward side of the park to (I74M.) Gallantry Bower (390 ft.), affords , perhaps , the most perfect combination of sea and wood- land scenery in England. The *View from the lofty bluff is magnificent. From Gallantry Bower we descend to (1/2 M.) *Mouth Mill, a romantic , rock-strewn little cove at the end of a wooded combe , through which we may return to the road a little to the W. of Clovelly. Perhaps the best plan is to take the higher of the two tracks on the E. side of the cove ; this leads back through part of the grounds of Clovelly Court (fine trees) and brings us out (bending to the left) on a road near the house and church. But we can scarcely go wrong in following the general direction of the stream. The whole round is about 5 M. In calm weather Mouth Mill may be reached by small boat (about 2s. 6d.), an excursion which reveals Gallantry Bower to full advantage. Those who are equal to a very rough and uncomfortable walk may at low water scramble along the shingle to the E. of Clovelly as far as (2V2 M.) Bucks Mill, whence a lane ascends to the Bideford Road. On the way we pass a curious natural archway of rock and one or two small waterfalls descending from the cliffs (apt to disappear in dry wea- ther), the first of which is the Freshwater of 'Westward Ho!' (chap. v.). According to a local tradition the inhabitants of Bucks are the descendants of ship-wrecked Spaniards. The road running due W. from Clovelly Cross leads to (4 M.) Hart- land Town (King's Arms), and thence to (2M.) Stoke and (1 M.) Hartland Quay. [A mail-brake runs daily from Clovelly to Hartland Town ; fare Is.] The church at Stoke, sometimes called the 'Cathedral of North Devon", is a handsome edifice with a lofty Perpendicular tower and a fine rood- screen. Hartland Alley, 1/2 M. to the N. E. of Stoke , is a modern man- sion, built on the site of an Augustine monastery and incorporating some remains of the E.E. cloisters. The cliff- scenery at Hartland Point, the extreme N.W. angle of Devon, 2 M. to the N. of Hartland Quay and 4 M. by road from Hartland Town, is very imposing. There is a light- house here. A pleasant drive may also be made to Blackmouth Mill , on the coast 3/4 M. to the N. of Hartland Quay, by a private road through the grounds of Hartland Abbey (permission obtained at the King's Arms). Clovelly is the nearest point for a visit to (17 M.) Lundyt (sailing- boat 20-30s.), which should not be attempted except in calm weather. Mail-skiff from Instow, see p. 160; steamer from Ilfracombe, see p. 16'2. The island, which was formerly a great resort of pirates and smugglers, is 3V2 M. long and V2-V4 M. broad. It belongs to a family named Heaven, and contains about fifty inhab., who occupy themselves in farming and in the lobster and other fisheries. The Church of St. Helena, with a tower 70 ft. in height, was completed in 1897. A walk round the island reveals ranch fantastic rock scenery, to many points of which appropriate names have been given. Probably the best-known is the towering Shutter Rock at the S. end of the island, which plays a prominent part in one of the most powerful scenes in 'Westward Hoi' (chap, xxxii). A good view is obtained from the top of the Lighthouse, about 2V2 M. from the Shutter. i 'Island' is a pleonasm, as the 'y', i. e. 'ey', in Lundy means island. 160 Route 20. BIDEFORD. In flummer Clovelly is frequently visited by an excursion -steamer from Ilfracombe, by which some may prefer to continue their journey; but it is not convenient for the transport of luggage, as passengers embark in small boats. — Besides the tri-weekly coach from Bude, passing Clovelly Cross, Clovelly has daily direct communication with (11 M.) Bideford by a mail-brake (fare Ss.)? starting from New Road Gate. From Clovelly to Bideford. For this part of the route even pedestrians may follow the road ; hut whether walking or driving the traveller should go by the lovely Hobby Drive (p. 158) for the first 3 M. The mail-brake takes this route in summer, and it is as easy to catch the Bude coach at the London Lodge of the Hobby as at Clovelly Cross. The road for 5 M. or so beyond the Hobby Gate lacks interest, though relieved by views of the sea. It passes the hamlets of West and East Bucks (comp. p. 159). Refreshments may be obtained at the Hoops Inn, halfway between Clovelly and Bideford. Beyond (2 M.) Fairy Cross and (3/4 M.) Ford the road becomes pleasantly shaded. Those who have time should diverge to the left at a point about 1 M. beyond Ford and follow the some- what longer road via Abbotsham, a village with a small but inter- esting church. As we approach Bideford we have a view to the left of the estuary of the Taw. Bideford (*Royal, on the right bank of the river, near the station ; New Inn, in the highest part of the town, with view •, Tan- ton's, on the river, near the bridge ; Newfoundland, unpretending; Rail. Buffet), a busy port and lishing-town (7831 inhab.}, is pleas- antly situated on the Torridye, about 3 M. above its estuary. The 'little white town of Bideford' (pron. 'Biddyford'), well known from the description in 'Westward Ho !', contains little to arrest the tourist; but before leaving it he should ascend to (1/4 hr.) Chud- leigh's Fort for the sake of the view. We cross the long bridge (24 arches), built in the 14th cent, but afterwards widened, and ascend past the station, soon turning to the left and passing through a farm gate (2rf.). Omnibuses (fare I5.) and mail-brakes (6d.) run daily from Bideford Station to Westward Ho (Royal Hotel, 9s. 6d. per day, well spoken of 5 Febble Ridge Hotel), a rising little watering-place, 2V2 M. to the K.W,, named from Kingsley's well-known novel. To the N. are the Northam Burrows, one of the best golflng-grounds in England. — Still farther to the N. (21/2 M.) , at the point where the Torridge flows into the estuary of the Taw, lies Appledore (Inn), the busy little foreport of Bideford. From Bidefoed to Torkington, 5 M., railway in 12 minutes. Tor- rington (Globe) is a small and ancient town, where General Fairfax won a decisive battle over the Royalists in 1646. From Bideford to Barnstaple and Ilfracombe, see R. 21. 21. From Bideford to Barnstaple and Ilfracombe. 24 M. Railway in IV4-IV4 hr. (fares is., Is. U., is. UVzd.). Bideford, see above. The train descends the E. bank of the Torridge to (3 M.) Instow Quay (Marine Inn) , a small watering- place and port at the mouth of the river, opposite Appledore (see above). A mail-skiff plies hence every alternate Thurs. to Liindy BARNSTAPLE. 21. Route. 161 (p. 159 ; fare 5s., return 7s. 6rf.). — The train now turns to the right and ascends the S. bank of the estuary of the Taw. 6 M. Fremington. 9 M. Barnstaple (Golden Lion, well spoken of; Fortescue Anns ; Rail. Rfmt. Rooms)., locally Bariim, a thrivin? and well-built town with 13,058 inhab., is situated on the N. bank of the Taw, about 8 M. from the sea. It was an important seaport at an early period in English history, and still carries on a considerable trade. Its pottery ('Barum ware') is celebrated. It possesses three railway-stations, all connected with each other: Barnstaple Junction (L. S.W.R.)^ for London via Exeter and Salisbury, and for Bideford and Ilfracombe ; Barnstaple (G. W. R.), 3/^ M. from the first, for London via Taunton and Bristol, and for Ilfracombe ; and Barnstaple Town Station, V2^^- from the first, on the N. side of the Taw. The only buildings of interest are the Parish Church, dating in part from the 14th cent., but freely restored; the Grammar School, formerly St. Anne's Chapel; Queen Annes Walk, a colonnade of last century; and the Athenaeum. The Bridge, ^yidened in 1834, dates from the 13th cent. There are interesting churches at Pilton, ^j-i M. to the N., and at (4 M.) Swimbridge (p. 128). A Promenade skirts the river on the E. side of the town, and the Rock Park may also be mentioned. From Barnstaple to Tattnton , see p. 128; to Exeter., see p. 105. — Coaches also run from Barnstaple to (18 M.) Lynton (3 hrs.j fare 5s.); railway approaching completion. The Ilfracombe train crosses the Taw to the Town Station (see above), and runs along the N. bank of the river. It then turns to the right (N.) and stops at (14 M.) Wrafton and (15 M.) Braunton, the church of which has an E.E. chancel, a Perp. tower, and some good carved pews. Braunton Burrows lie to the S.W. — 21 M. Morthoe Sf Let (Fortescue Inn). The village of Morthoe (see p. 163) lies 2 M. to the W., and Lee (p. 162) about the same distance to the N. The train then descends the E. side of the Slade Valley to — 24 M. Ilfracombe. — Hotels. Ilfracombe Hotel, an extensive building facing the sea, with large swimming and other baths, etc., R. & A. from 4«., table d'hote B. 2s. 6c/., D. 5s., pens, in winter 3l. 3s. per week; *Royal Clarence, High St., R. & A. from 3s. Gel., table dhote B. 2s. 6(7., D. 4.f. 6(i. ; *Belgkave Private Hotel, near the Ilfracombe Hotel; Dldley Private Hotel, near the Capstone Hill, highly spoken of, 5-lOs. per day. il. 10s. Qd.-Sl. 3s. per week, ac-ording to season; Britannia, at the Pier; Qdeen's, Great Western, Victoria, all in High St. — Hotel and railway omnibuses meet the principal trains. Cabs. With 1 horse (for 1-2 pers.) Is. per mile; each addit. V2 M. 6d.', each addit. pers. 3rf.; with 2 horses Is. 6(i., 9d., 6d.; by time (1-4 pers.) 2s. Gd. per hr. and Is. each addit. 1/2 hr. for one-horse cabs; 3s. 9d. and Is. 6d. for two-horse cabs. To Water mouih Castle and back (1-4 pers.) 4s., with stay of 1 hr. 5s.; to Lee Beach and back, with stay of 1 hr., 1-2 pers. 6s., 3-4 pers. 7s.; to Morthoe Church and back (1-4 pers.), with 2 hrs. stay, 8s.; to Comhe Martin, with stav of 1 hr., 7s. Donkev-carria'ies, V2 M. Gd., 1 M. 8d., each addit. 1/2 M. 4rf.; per hr. Is., each addit. V2 hr. 6d. (bargaining desirable for the longer excursions, to the Downs, etc.). Sailing Boats per hr. for 1-5 pers. 2s. 6f/., each addit. p«rs. 6rf. — Rowing Boats 10s. Grf. per day. Is. Qd. per hr. (1-4 pers.), each pers. beyond four 6rf. extra. Boat to or from a steamer 3d. each person. Baedeker's Great Britain. 4th Edit. 11 162 Route 21. ILFRACOMBE. Steamers ply regularly to Swansea (6s., 4s.) and Bristol, and excursion steamers also ply occasionally to Clovelly (return-fares 4s. 6c?., 3s.), Lundy (4s. 6d., 3s.), and Lynmouth (single 2s, 6rf., return 3s. 6re TlicPorelaru >.nka-toii[ Norkfoid Joor " Statute ilile.' ^lEfQliRm BAT 1. I 11 J^Trr ""*" " " ^S?&^^''™) ^««5V^-ta*'', _ V-i- a R A, i, T Ii c so MLB SLl MORTHOE. 21. Route. 163 second of which is a sign-post showing the way to Bull Point, At the gate which we next pass we descend to the left along the hedgerow and soon strike the path again. On crossing the brook at the bottom of the combe we take the higher path, ascending to the left, which soon brings us to the (1 M.) road, close to a white gate. To visit Oh M.) Bull Point Lighthouse we pass through this gate, to which we have to return in any case to pursue our route to Morthoe. For the latter we follow the road towards the left, passing through several other gates, to (IV2 M.) Morthoe (Chichester Inn), with an E.E. church (restored), containing the interesting tomb of William de Tracey (1322), generally confounded with Thomas Becket's murderer (see pp. 28, 130). About 1/2 M. farther on is Barracane Bay, with a beach of shell-debris; and adjoining this are the extensive sands of Wollacombe Bay (Hotel; coach from Ilfracombe and back, 8s.). (Donkey from Barracane Bay to Morthoe 3-6d. ; seat inn a vehicle from Morthoe to Morthoe station 6c?.) About 1 M. due W. of Morthoe is Morte Point, a savage rocky promontory that does not belie its name, commanding a fine view. It is reached by passing across the land of a farmer who charges 2d. for the privilege. There is a local saying to the effect that 'Morte is the place on earth which Heaven made last and the Devil will take first'. We may now return to Ilfra- combe by coast, road, or railway (see p. 160). Another popular short walk is to Two Pots (730 ft.), 21/2 M. to the S. We may go by the old Barnstaple road along the ridge, leading S. from Church St., and return by the new road through the valley. A third favourite excursion is the walk or drive to (4^/4 M.) Combe Martin, which is described below (R. 22). Coach to Berry Doicn, returning by Combe 3Iartin and Watermouth (fare 35. 6d.)- ^ele. Berry Sarhor, and Watermouth. see below. Excursions may also be made to Chamber combe, to (7 M.) Braunton and Braunton Burrows (p. 161), to (6 M.) Oeorgeham, Bide- ford. Barnstaple (coach via Braunton 3s., return-fare 4«. 6d.), etc. No one should leave Ilfracombe on his return towards the E. without having seen Clovelly (p. 158). 22. From Ilfracombe to Lynton (Lynmouth) and Minehead, 37 M. This route may be accomplished either by road or by cliff- path along the coast. All tolerable pedestrians are strongly advised to choose the latter, which is one of the most charming walks in England. In either case the journey should be broken for at least a night or two at Lynton or Lynmouth (p. 166). — During summer Coaches ply daily from Ilfracombe to (17 M.) Lynton (fare 4-5s. ; return 7s.), and from Lynton to (20 M.) Minehead (Gs. Gd.); and it is possible to make the entire journey in one day. Walkers may obtain night-quarters at Combe Martin, Hunter's Inn, Lynton, and Par lock. a. By Road. We leave Ilfracombe by Larkstone Terrace and skirt the S. base of Heleshorough (p. 162) to (l'/2 M.) Hele, below which, to the left, is the pretty little Hele Bay. The old road to Lynton here diverges to the right, passing [2 M.) Berry Narb or, the birthplace of Bishop Jewel (1522-71), a village with a Perp. church and an old manor- house (now a farm), and rejoins the new road at (I'/o J^IO Combe Martin (p. 164). We continue to follow the coast- road. 1V4^1- (23 4 M. from Ilfracombe) Watermouth, a picturesque little harbour, with a large modern castle. By crossing a small stone bridge to the left we may visit the Smallmouth Caves , in a rocky little glen 11* 164 Route 22. EXMOOR. From Ilfracomhe descending to the sea. Opposite the castle is an iron gate admitting to a path by which the foot-passenger may cut off ahout 72 M. After about 1 M. more we reach Sandabay, and V2M. farther we find our- selves at the seaward end of the long village of Combe Martin (King's Arms), which stretches inland for a distance of 1^4 M. The church, partly E.E. and partly Perp., has a beautiful Perp. tower, 100 ft. high. The hill to the left is named the Little Hangman (755 ft.) ; and beyond it, farther to the E., is the Oreat Hangman or Gurt Doxcn (1080 ft.). At the end of Combe Martin a rough cross-country road diverges to the left to Trentishoe (p. 165) and so to Lynton, but the coach-road ascends to the right (inland), affording good retrospects of the coast. At (41/4 M.) Blackmore Gate (formerly a toll-bar) we turn to the left and descend to (1^/4 M.) Parracombe (Fox and Goose), 6 M. from Lynton, beyond which we again ascend and soon obtain a view of the sea near Heddon's Mouth. The last part of the route descends through the valley of the West Lyn , which beyond (4 M.) Barbrook Mill is very picturesque. From (3/4 M.) Lyn Bridge (Inn) the descent to Lynton is rather steep. At the (3/4 M.) fork those bound tor Lynton (p. 166) keep to the left, while those for Lynmouth (p. 166) descend to the right. To continue our journey to Minehead we cross the bridge at Lynmouth and ascend the long and steep hill (fine retrospects) to the right to (2 M.) Countisbury (Blue Ball Inn). About halfway up, a path on the left diverges to Sillery Sands. Beyond Countis- bury the road skirts the N. margin of Exmoor Forest. Exmoor Forest, a tract of hilly moorland, about 30 sq. M. in extent, in many respects resembles a miniature Dartmoor (see p. 136), though the granite tors of the latter are here replaced by the less rugged out- lines of slate and sandstone formations. It is known for its ponies, of which the genuine breed is now rare, its red cattle, and its sheep. It is the only part of England where the red deer still occurs in a wild state, and the Exmoor stag-hounds attract numerous visitors (comp. p. 128). Good fishing is atTorded by the numerous streamlets traversing the Forest. The highest point of Exmoor is Dunkery Beacon (see p. 165), and many of its other hills attain an elevation of 1200-1600 ft. For excursions into or across Exmoor, see pp. 167, 168. About 1 M. from Countisbury a road on the right descends to the valley of the Brendon (p. 167). To the left we have fine views over the Bristol Channel, with the Welsh coast in the background. Farther on we pass, on the left, the Old Barrow (1135 ft.) and the entrance to Glenthorne (p. 169 ; seen below, to the left), and then, at (21/2 M.) County Gate (1060 ft.), we leave Devon and enter Somerset. To the right are Malmsmead and the Badgeworthy Glen (p. 167). A road on the same side diverges to (1/2 M.) Oare Church and the Exmoor Kennels (seen below, to the right). On the right, 31/2 M. farther on, a road diverges to Oareford^ and at the so-called (1 M.) White Stones another on the same side leads to (5M.) Exford (White Horse), an angling resort on the Exe. The old road to West Porlock and Porlock (good views) diverges to the left about to Minehead. PORLOCK. 22. Route- 165 1/4 M. farther on, while the easier but less attractive new road leads in a straight direction to (21/2 M. ; 13 M. from Lynmouth) — Tovloc^ (Lorna Doone ; *Ship, unpretending; Castle)^ a pictur- esque little village about ^2 ^^' from the sea, between Porlock Hill and Bossington Beacon. About 1 M. to the W., on the old road, is West Porlock^ and V2 M. beyond it, on the coast, is the little har- bour of Porlock Weir (*Anchor Inn). Porlock is the best startinij-point for an ascent (2-3 hrs.) of Dunkery Beacon (1707 ft. ; -View), which rises about 4 M. to the S. Drivin',' is practic- able, via Lttckham, to a point within easy reach of the top, but the best pedestrian route is by Horner Woods and Cloutsham. — The descent may be made on the S.W. side to (SVa M.) Exford (p. 164), whence we may go on to (41/2 M.) Simonshath (p. 168). Beyond Porlock the road leads somewhat circuitously to (2 M.) Holnicote, where it skirts the park of Sir Thomas Acland (to the right). The coach goes straight on to (41/2^^0 Minehead, but carriages should diverge to the left and follow the much pret- tier road through Selioorthy Green. The two roads reunite at a point about 2^/2 M. from Minehead (see p. 168). b. By the Coast. As far as (4'/4M.) Combe Martin this route coincides with that just described. Instead, however, of traversing the whole length of this village, we turn to the left at the fountain, nearly oppo- site the King's Arms Hotel and ascend towards Holstone Down (1185 ft.). [We may, however, go on to the end of the village before turning to the left. The roads unite on the top of the Down, and sign-posts keep us right.] The steep ascent from Combe Martin is the worst bit of the walk, and the view is limited. After about 2 M., however, we reach the top of the moor, beyond which we have easy walking and views of increasing attractiveness. As we descend to (3 M. ; 5 M. from Combe Martin) Trentishoe, we have a good view of the sea in front of us. From Trentishoe we descend rapidly to a beautifully-wooded little combe , through which we proceed to (3/4 M.) ''Hunter s Inn (unpretending), charm- ingly situated in a valley about 1 M. from the sea (angling-ticket is. per day). From this point we may go on to (5 M.) Lynton by road, joining the coach-road (p. 164) after 3 M. Walkers, however, turn to the left and follow the path along the side of the combe in which the inn lies. This is finely wooded at first, but changes its character completely before reaching the sea at (1 M.) *Heddons Mouth, where the scene is one of singular wilduess. From Heddon's Mouth a path has been cut along the cliffs to (l^/oM.) *WoodaBay, one of the finest walks in England. Here our path merges in a cart-track , and at the fork we take the lower branch to the left, soon, however, again ascending. Beyond AVooda Bay we reach Lee Bay, and at its farther side we pass through (l'/2 M.) a gate 166 Route 22. LYNTON. From Rfracombe opening on a private road across the grounds of Lee Abbey , a modern mansion, which we pass on the left. The promontory to the X. of the Abbey is called *Duty Point, and permission to visit it may be obtained at the house. A legend relates that a lady of the family of Whichehalse, the former owners of Lee Abbey, here put an end to her grief by throwing herself into the sea. — To continue our walk to Lynton we need not return to the Abbey, but may make our way along the cliffs to the Valley of Rocks (see below). We leave Lee Abbey grounds by another lodge-gate and enter the so-called (1/2 M.) *Valley of Eocks, with the Castle Rock (good view from the top) to the left and the Cheesewring to the right. The road through the valley leads to (I1/.2 M.) Lynton, but it is better to follow the cliff-path (the *North Walk), which diverges to the left and leads round the rocky mass known as Ragged Jack, beyond the Castle Rock. This path brings us out about halfway between Lynmouth and Lynton, the one lying below us to the left and the other above us to the right. Continuation of the route to Minehead, see p. 168. Lynton and Lynmouth,. — Hotels at Lynton: 'Valley of Rocks, table-dhoteSs., R. een used by choristers. The 'Cloisters (135l)-1410), which have no rival in England, are en- tered by a door at the E. end of the N. aisle of the nave. The exquisite fan-vaulting is the first known instance of its kind in the country. The S. walk of the cloisters contained the Scriptorium of the monks, and the N. walk their Lavatory. — From the E. walk of the cloisters we enter the Chapter House, which is Norman, except at the E. end, where a large Perp. window has been inserted, A staircase ascends from it to the '^Cathedral Library, which contains a copy of Coverdale's Bible (1535) and an Anglo-Saxon MS. of the 10th century. The Crypt, entered from the S. Transept, is mainly of Norman work- manship, though probably including relics of the Saxon abbey (p. 171), and preserves the original plan of the E. end of the church. to Hereford. GLOUCESTER. 23. Route. 173 The top of the Tower (225 ft. ; visitors seldom admitted) commands a very extensive view. In the lower part of it hangs 'Great Peter\ a bell weighinf^ nearly 3 tons. The chimes play at 1, 5, and 8 p.m. The triennial musical festivals held alternately in the cathedrals of Gloucester, Hereford, and Worcester, for the performance of oratorios and other pieces of sacred music, are very numerously attended. To the N. of the Cathedral lie some remains of the Monastic Buildings of the Benedictine abbey in which the see took its rise (see p. 171). These include the so-called 'Little Cloisters' (Perp.) and several E. E. arches. Three or four ancient Gateways to the cathedral -precincts still remain, the most interesting being the West Gale (12th cent.}, in St. Mary's Sijuare. The modern cross opposite the latter is a memorial to Bishop Hooper, who suffered martyrdom on this spot in 1555. The new Episcopal Palace adjoins the monastic remains. The picturesque ''Deanery, to the N. of the W. front of the cathedral, carefully restored by Sir G. G. Scott, is the old Prior s Lodge. The E. end of the fine room now used as the Deans Library, and once probably the Prior's Chapel, is pure Korman of the lith or early 12th cent.; and the curious 'slype' beneath it is of the same period. The back part of the Deanery is of timber and dates from the 12th or 13th cent. ; it contains a large room in which the Gloucester Parliament of Richard II. (1377-91)) was held. Gloucester contains about 12 other churches, of which the most interesting are St. Mary le Crypt (Perp.), St. Nicholas (Perp.), St. Mary de Lode, and St. Michael, from the tower of which the curfew is still sounded every evening. Near the docks are the scanty remains of Llanthony Priory , originally an offshoot from the priory of that name in Monmouthshire (p. 192). The New Inn is an interesting brick and timber edifice, erected about 1450 for the accommodation of pilgrims to the shrine of Edward II. (p. 172). — On the S.E. side of the town is a Public Park, with a chalybeate spring. The Museum, in Brunswick St., contains Roman antiquities found in the neighbourhood, the horns of the cow from which Dr. Jenner (p. 171) procured his original stock of lymph, etc. In Southgate St. is a timber-framed house once occupied by Robert Raikes (1735-1811), a native of Gloucester and the founder of the first Sunday School in England ; and there is another interesting old house in a passage opposite the Fleece Inn in Westgate St. — Numerous pleasant walks and drives may be taken in the environs. — The 'bore' on the Severn may be seen from Westgate Bridge, or to greater advantage, about 2 M. below Gloucester. From Gloucester to Bristol and to Bath, see R. 15; to Chellenhum and Birmingham, see R. 24. Excursions may easily be made to the Forest of Dean (p. 177) and the Valley of the Wye (p. 174). Passengers for Ross and Hereford sometimes change carriages at Gloucester and proceed by the South Wales Railway (G.W.R.). On quitting the town we obtain a good retrospect of the cathedral, and afterwards enjoy a succession of fine views of the valley of the Severn. About 2 M. from Gloucester we pass (on the right) Highnam Church, the interior of which was elaborately painted by the late Mr. Gambier Parry (p. 172), whose house, Highnam Court, is seen on the same side farther on. — At (1211/0 M.) Grange Court our line diverges to the right from the line to South Wales (K. 25). Farther on we pass Blaisdon Hill on the right, while 1 M. to the 174 Route 23. ROSS. From London left is Flaxley Abbey ^ the residence of Sir Roger de Coverley's 'Widow' (Mrs. Boevy). To the right, at (125 M.) Longhope, rises May Hill (1000 ft.). 1271/2^. Micheldean Road, the station for (I1/2M.) Micheldean, a small town on the N. margin of the Forest of Dean, with a church containing a fine oaken roof. The train now enters Herefordshire, a pleasant cattle - grazing district, which, according to Camden (''Britannia ) 'would scorne to be considered seconde to any other county throughout all England for fertilite of soile', adding 'that for three W.W.W. — wheat, wool, water — it yieldeth to no shire in England'. The traveller should not omit to taste its perry and cider. To the left, in front of us, rises the Penyard. 132 M. Ross (*Royal, near the church, with a fine view, R. & A. from 4s. 6d., B. 2-3s., D. 3s. Qd.-bs. ; Swan; King's Head), a pretty little town with 3575 inhah., stands on a hill overlooking the Wye, which Is here crossed by a picturesque bridge. The *Church, a hand- some Dec. and Perp. building, with a lofty spire, conspicuous in all views of the town, contains the tomb (in the chancel) of John Kyrle (d. 1724), the 'Man of Ross' immortalized in Pope's well-known poem, as well as some interesting monuments of theRedhall family. Kyrle also planted the elms in the churchyard, and inside the church are two offshoots from one of these (now dead) , which forced their way below the wall. The house [now a shop) of this eminent philanthropist on bOOl. a year is in the market-place and is marked by his bust. Opposite is the Town Hall, a quaint little building, supported by pillars of red sandstone. A lovely view of the Wye is obtained from the Prospect Walk, adjoining the churchyard. *Valley of the Wye. Ross is the starting-point for a visit to the Lower Wye, the 'devious Vaga of the poet, which presents some of the finest river-scenery in the country. The river also flows past Tintern Abbey, one of the most beautiful of England's ecclesias- tical ruins, while Raglan, one of the most interesting of English castles, is within easy reach of its banks. The Wye flows to the S. from Ross, passing Monmouth, and joins the Severn near Chepstow (p. 177), which is 27 M. distant as the crow flies, but about 40 M. by the windings of the river. The traveller has his choice of road, rail, and river; the last route is preferable, and it may be combined with digressions on foot. A boat with one boatman from Ross to Goodrich Castle costs 6*., to Symond"s Yat 10*., to Monmouth 15«., to Tintern 25*., to Chepstow 30s.; with two men about one-half more. For boats apply at the Hope & Anchor Inn. Boats may also be hired at (IOV2 M.) Monmouth. Perhaps the best plan is to go by boat to Tintern and to walk thence to (SV* M-) Chepstow, as the lower (tidal) part of the Wye, except at high tide, is disfigured by ugly mudbanks. This walk also includes the Wyndclifif (p. 177), con- sidered the finest single point in the valley. Those who have only one day at their disposal should visit Symonds Yat and Tintern by rail, and walk from the latter to Chepstow by the Wyndcliflf. Monmouth is the best stopping-place for those who devote two days to the trip. The rail- way skirts the river nearly the whole way, and most of the stations are close to its banks. The times and fares 'from Ross are as follows: to Slorn here, and a build- ing (_of much later date) is known as 'Geoffrey's Study'. The caps for which Monmouth was formerly celebrated ('wearing leeks in their Monmouth caps', Henry V., iv. 7), are no longer made here. — There are two railway-stations at Monmouth : May Hill^ near the bridge, and Monmouth Troy, to the S. of the town. Passengers for Tintern and Chepstow sometimes have to change carriages at the latter, the train going on to Raglan, Usk, and Pontypool Road (see below). The -View from (2^/2 M.) Kymin Hill (700 ft. above tbe river ; ascent 1 hr.), on the opposite bank of the Wye, is very extensive and beautiful. About 1 M. to the S.E. of this hill is the Buclstone, a rocking-stone, or 'Logan Stone' ('View). Jlonmouth is a good centre for numerous charming excursions , and the tourist is advised to interrupt his descent of the Wye long enough at least for a visit to Raglan (Beaufort Arms), 7 M. to the S.W. ; railway (G. W. R.) in 1/4 hr.; fares I5. 2d., dd., Id. 'Raglan Castle (adm. 6rf.), now a picturesque ruin, was built in the 14-15th cent., and in 1646 was gallantly defended against the Parliamentarians for 10 weeks by the Marquis of Worcester, then in his 84th year. It was the last fortress to hold out for the king. The second marquis, the son of the heroic royalist, is distinguished for having invented and constructed the first steam- engine, which was set up at Raglan as a pumping engine. Lord Raglan, the British commander in the Crimean War, took his title from this spot. — Beyond Raglan the train goes on to (12 M.) TJsk (Three Salmons), an ancient place with an old church and castle and a noted salmon-fishery, and (18 M.) Pontypool Road (p. 193). — Other interesting places near Mon- mouth are (8 M.) Skenfrith Castle, (131/2 M.) Grosmont Castle, and (91/2 M.) White Castle. Below Monmouth the valley of the Wye soon again contracts, and is enclosed by steep wooded hills. The railway from Monmouth to Chepstow skirts the river nearly the whole way. On the right bank, 2 M. from Monmouth, lies Pennalt , near which is Troy House, a seat of the Duke of Beaufort. On the opposite bank are various traces of the industries carried on in the Forest of Dean. At (4 M.) Bigsweir we reach the highest point where the flow of the tide is perceptible. About 2 M. to the E. is St. Brlavels (p. 178). The train next passes (3^/2 M.) Tintern Parva and Tintern Station, both on the right, and after rounding another loop reaches (IV2 ^^O the ivy-clad *Tinterii Abbey, one of the most romantic ruins in Eng- land, lying in a green meadow on the right bank of the Wye (adm. 6d.). The abbey was founded by Cistercian monks in 1131, but the church, the chief feature of the ruins, dates from the end of the following cen- tury. The building, which is 228 ft. long, is a fine specimen of Dec. Gothic. The roof and central tower are gone, but the rest of the struc- ture is still well preserved. The window-tracery and other decorations are very beautiful. The secular buildings are much smaller and less im- portant than those of Fountains Abbey (p. 431). The village of Tintern (Beaufort Arms, R. (feA. 4s., sometimes over-crowded in summer; George; Rose & Crown) is close to the abbey. The railway-station (see above) is 1 M. distant by road. The river -scenery between Tintern and (7 M.) Chepstow is very charming, though it loses much of its attraction at low tide to Hereford. CHEPSTOW. 23. Route. 177 (see p. 174). We skirt the "base of the wooded Wyndcliff (see below), and farther on pass the fine rocks known as the *Twelve Apostles (to the right). As we approach Chepstow we have a good view of the castle. As, however, the Wyndcliff is one of the points that no visitor to the AVye should miss , many will prefer to walk from Tintern to (5V4 M- ) Chepstow. We follow the road leading to the S. from the Abbey to (21/4 M.) the 'Moss Cottage', and pass through the cottage (fee Gt/.) to a winding path which ascends, partly in steps, to the top of the * Wyndcliff (900 ft.). At the top we turn to the right and descend a little to reach the small out-look plat- form, which commands one of the finest views of river-scenery in Europe, remarkable for the beauty and variety of its foliage. The Severn is seen in the distance. In descending we do not return to the Moss Cottage, but keep to the S. (left) at the point on the summit where we turned to the right, and regain the road at a point 1/3 M. nearer Chepstow. After 1/9 M. more we turn to the left, and then follow the main road to (2Y4 M.) Chepstow. On a Tuesday, however, we may walk through *Piercefield Park, from near the point where we regain the road to within 3/^ M. of Chepstow. In summer a coach plies daily between Tintern Abbey and Cliepstow (fares I5. Gd., return 2s. Qd.), starting from the latter about 11 a.m. Chepstow (*Beaufort Arms, R. & A. 4s. ; George), a town with 3380 inhab., is picturesquely situated on the W. bank of the Wye, which is here crossed by two bridges, 21/2 M« above its junction with the Severn. It is a station on the S. Wales line from Gloucester to Cardiff (see p. 193). *Chepstow Castle (adm. 6d.), on a height com- manding the river, dates mainly from the 13-l4th cent, and is an extensive and interesting ruin, enclosing four courts. The third court, known as the Chapel, seems to have been the original Nor- man keep. Mart'ms Tower was for 20 years the prison of the regi- cide of that name (d. 1680; buried in the church), and Jeremy Taylor was also confined here in 1656. A good view of the castle is obtained from the bridge. The Church of St. Mary , near the bridge, has a Norman nave and a fine Norman W. doorway. Some parts of the town-walls and an old gateway are still in situ. From Cliepstow an excursion may be made to Caldicot Castle (adm. on previous written application), 5V-''M. to the S.W., and to CaerwenI, a Roman camp (Venia Silurum), i^j-z M. to the N. of the castle. Freeman descrilies Caldicot as surpassing in masonry and details every military buildin-j; he had seen, being fully equal to the best ecclesiastical work. The Forest of Dean, the triangular district between the Wye and the Severn, as far N. as a line drawn from Koss to Gloucester, was formerly a royal domain like the New Forest (see p. S2); and the crown land still amounts to about 25,C(X) acres. It is now in great part a liusy mining dis- trict, producing large quantities of coal and iron; but there are also exten- sive tracts of picturesque woodland, whicli repay exploration. It is tra- versed from X. to S. by the railway from /lerkeleu Head to Lydhrook : and visitors may conveniently alight at Speech House Station and make the Speech House Inn (well spoken of) their headquarters. The Speech House contains the Verderers' Court (comp. p. 83). The trees of the Baedekek's Great Britain. 4th Edit. 1*2 178 Route 23. -HEREFORD. Forest are chiefly oaks and beeches. Among the pleasantest points are the Holly Wood., close to the Speech House; the High Beeches, 2 M. to the N.W. ; the Spruce Drive and Danhy Beeches. 31/2' M. to the S.E. •, the Great Oak, 4 M. to the W.; Pleasant Stile, Langham Place, the Ruardean Hill (855 ft.), the highest point in the Forest, and St. Briavels (p. 176), with a ruined castle and an interesting church. Visitors interested will easily find an opportunity of inspecting a colliery or an iron-mine. Beyond Ross the Hereford line passes several country-seats. Sta- tions Faivley and Holme Lacy. The grounds of Holme Lacy House (Earl of Chesterfield), a large red mansion to the right, are open to the puhlicin summer; the fine gardens on Tues. forenoon. The Wye is crossed several times. 144 M. Hereford (*Green Dragon; City Arms, commercial; Mitre, R. &A. 3s. 9d., these three in Broad St. ; Greyhound, Merton, unpretending ; Railway Refreshment Rooms), an episcopal city with 20,267 inhah., pleasantly situated on the left bank of the Wye, is of very ancient origin. It was at one time strongly fortified, and remains of the old walls are still traceable. The see dates from 673, when it was detached from that of Lichfield. The Castle, built to hold the Welsh in check, and described by Leland as 'one of the fayrest, largest, and strongest castles in England', has almost wholly disappeared; but its name survives in Castle Green, a pleasant prom- enade on the river near the cathedral. In the centre of the Green, which occupies the site of the outer ward of the Castle, is a Column to the memory of Lord Nelson. Hereford carries on an extensive trade in the agricultural produce of the district. The cattle and sheep of Herefordshire are highly valued. Hereford was the birth- place of David Garrick (1716-79) and Nell Gwynne (d. 1687). The *Cathedkal (SS. Mary ^^ Ethelbert), the fourth church on the same site, begun in 1079 on the destruction of its predecessor by the Welsh (1055) , and not finished tiU 1530, naturally shows an interesting mixture of architectural styles. The nave, S. tran- sept, choir, and piers of the tower are Norman ; the Lady Chapel is E.E. (1226-46); the N. transept was rebuilt in 1250-88; the N. porch was erected about 1290. The central tower dates from the 14th, and the cloisters from the loth century. The addition of the outer N. porch (about 1530) completed the building as it now stands. The W. facade was marred at the end of last century during the 'renovation' undertaken by Wyatt (p. 99) in consequence of the fall of the W. tower (1786), but the whole building was after- wards restored with success by Sir G. G. Scott (1856-63). The daily services of the cathedral are held at 10 a.m. and 4.30 p.m. Visitors are requested to inscribe their names in a book and contribute 6d. to the building-expenses. The usual entrance is by the ^North Porch, the outer portion of which is Perp. and the inner E.E. (see above). The principal dimensions of the Cathe- dral are: length 342 ft., breadth of nave and aisles 73 ft., length of transepts 146 ft., height 64 ft. HEREFORD. 23. Route. 179 Interior. The first thing to strike the visitor on entering the Xave is the contrast presented by its severe and massive piers and arches to the Dec. features of the exterior. The arches are adorned with chevron mouldings. The clerestory and triforium are poor, dating only from the restoration of last cent, (see p. lT8j, and the unsuitable ornamentation of the ceiling is also modern. The oak pulpit is .Jacobean. Among the monuments in this part of the church are those of Bishop Booth (1516-35), in the N. aisle, and Sir Richard I'embridge (d. 1375), in the S. aisle. Near the latter is the Norman Font, of the 12th century. — The N.W. Transept, perhaps the most beautiful part of the edifice, is a fine specimen of the Early Dec. style, with tall, narrow windows, arches of unusual form, and elaborate diaper ornamentation. The modern stained-glass window in memory of Archdeacon Freer, by Hardman^ is very rich. The transept contains numerous monuments, of which the most interesting are those of Bishops Peter de Aquahlanca (1240-68) and "Thomas de Cantilupe (1275-82; the last Englishman canonized before the Reformation). The exterior of this transept should also be examined. — The S.W. Traxsept is Norman, with later alterations, and some authorities believe it contains part of the oldest work in the building. On its W. side is a curious old lireplace, an unusual feature in a church. Its E. aisle, now used as a Vestry^ con- tains a glass-case, with various interesting objects, including the 'Here- ford Use' of about 1270. — Above the crossing rises the Great Central Tower (165 ft.), the curious work in the lantern of which resembles a large cage with bars of stone. The *Choir is separated from the nave by an elaborate Metal Screen^ executed by Skidmore from a design by Sir G. G. Scott, and there are also good metal gates at the ends of the choir-aisles. The main arches and triforium of the choir are Norman, the clerestory E. E. The E. extremity was rebuilt in the present century. The Episcopal Throne and the Stalls date from the 14th cent.; Xhe Altar, Sedilia, Reredos, Stained Glass Windows, and Tiled Pavement are modern. To the left of the altar is an interesting old Bishop's Chair, dating from the 11th century. Opening off the N. choir-aisle is Bishop Sfanburi/'s Chantry, a small chapel of the end of the 15th century. To the W. of it is a door leading into the Cathedral Library , which was formerly ac- cessible only by the gangway across the large window in the N.W. transept (see above). The library contains many volumes of great interest and value, nearly all of which are chained to the shelves. In the S. choir-aisle the famous ^Hereford Mappa Mundi, a quaint map of the world executed at the end of the 18th cent., is hung in its original frame, protected by modern doors of oak. Both aisles contain the monuments of several bishops. — The choir ends at the E. Transepts, which date in their present form mainly from the 14th century. From the S.E. transept a passage called the Vicars' Cloister, with a carved wooden roof, leads to the Vicars' College (see below). The easternmost arm of the cathedral is the Ladt Chapel, a good example of E.E., containing, among others, the fine tomb of Baron de Grandison (d. 1358). On the S. side, behind a lofty stone screen, is the Chantry of Bishop Audley (1492-1502), who, however, is buried in the chantry he built at Salisbury after his translation to that see (p. 99). A door at the N.W. angle of the Lady Chapel leads to the Crypt, said to be the only one in England of later date than the 11th century. — The Cloisters (15th cent.) are entered from the S. side of the nave. In the E. walk is the doorway of the old Chapter House, of which little else remains. The tower at the S.E. angle of the cloisters is traditionally known as the 'Ladye Arbour'. The College of Vicars Choral, to the S. of the cathedral, is in the Perp. style (1476-1500). The Episcopal Palace, between the cathe- dral and the river, contains a Norman hall. The Cathedral Orammar f^chool, to the E. of the Cathedral, was founded in the 14th cent. After the cathedral the most interesting building is probably the so-named *Old House, in the square called the High Town, a 12* 180 Route -23. HEREFORD. picturesque example of a half-timlDered dwelling (IGth or early ITtli cent.), now used as a bank. In St. Peter's Sq., a little to theE., is St. Peter s Church, containing 14 oaken stalls of the 15tli century. The Church of All Saints, in High St., to the W., contains similar stalls of somewhat later date. Both churches have lofty spires. From High Town (see p. 179) Widemarsh St. leads to the N. to (1/3 M. ) Coningsby Hospital, a neat little building (1614) for old soldiers and servants, on the site of a commandery of the Knights Templar , of which a Norman archway still remains. It is also known as the Black Cross Hospital, from the ruins of a priory of Black Friars in the garden. The most striking of these relics is the *Preaching Cross. Opposite the Shire Hall is a Statue of Sir George Comeicall Lewis (1806-63), M.P. for Herefordshire, 1847-52. — Another walk may be taken westwards from High Town through High St. and Eign St., across the railway bridge, and along White- cross St. and Whitecross Road to (I74M.) the White Cross, erected in the 14th cent, to commemorate the cessation of the Black Death (1349). To the left, about 200yds. from the road, are the Kennels of the North Herefordshire Hunt. — A good view is obtained from the Town Waterworks, 1 M. to the S.W., reached from High St. by Broad St., King St., Nicholas St., Barton St., and Broomy Hill. — The Museum, in Broad St., contains local antiquities, fossils, and birds. — There are two railway-stations at Hereford: the Barr's Court Station of the G.W. and L.N.W. railways, on the N.E. side of the town, and the Barton Station of the Midland Railway, adjoining the above-mentioned bridge. Hereford is a fairly good centre for excursions , of which those up and down the Wz/e are the tirst to suggest themselves. In both directions the pedestrian or cyclist will meet with much characteristic English river- scenery, and numerous small but comfortable inns make it a comparatively easy matter to extend the walk in the one direction to Ross, Monmouth, or Chepstow (comp. p. 174 et seq.), or in the other to Hay, Builth, or E^hayader (comp. p. 205). — Among other places of interest within the compass of a days excursion are Leominster (see below); Malvern (p. 190); the Black Mis. (p". 192); Dinedor Hill, a Roman camp 3 M. to the S. (view); Holme L'.cy, 4 M. to the S.E. (p. 178); Ellpeck Church, 71/2 M. to the S.W., with grotesque Xorman sculptures (see p. 1^2); St. EthelberVs Camp, 6 M. to the E.; and Tewkesbury (p. 183). From Herefoed to Shrewsbury, 51 M., railway in 1^/2-21/3 hrs. (8s. 6d. , bs. id., is. Sc/.). — The train traverses rich pasture-land, pen- etrates Dinmove Hill, 'a specula to see all the country about" (Leland), by a tunnel (3/4 M.), and passes several unimportant stations. — 13 M. Leo- minster, pronounced ZeOT5