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Cotton Spinning 
 
 A Complete Working Guide to 
 
 MODERN PRACTICE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF COTTON YARN, INCLUDING 
 
 THE NATURAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE DIFFERENT VARIETIES 
 
 OF COTTON, GRADING AND MECHANICAL TREATMENT OF 
 
 FIBER, AND CONSTRUCTION, OPERATION, 
 
 AND CARE OF SPINNING MACHINERY 
 
 By CHARLES C. HEDRICK 
 f r 
 
 Mechanical Engineer 
 Lowell Machine Shop, Lowell. Mass. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED 
 
COPYRIGHT 1908 BY 
 AMERICAN SCHOOL OF CORRESPONDENCE' 
 
 Entered at Stationers' Hall, London 
 All Rights Reserved 
 
Foreword 
 
 HE Textile Industry has shared to such an extent the 
 modern tendency toward specialization, and has been 
 marked by the development of such a multiplicity of 
 types of machinery and special mechanical and chem- 
 ical processes, that the various branches of this great 
 industry to-day constitute in reality distinct though closely re- 
 lated arts. The present volume is intended to supply a working 
 guide to the latest approved practice in the fundamental branch 
 of Cotton Spinning, covering every detail from the growth and 
 natural characteristics of the different varieties of cotton and 
 the grading of cotton fiber, to the mechanical treatment of the 
 raw material and the machinery and processes involved in the 
 creation of the finished product. 
 
 CL Special stress is laid on the practical as distinguished from 
 the merely theoretical or descriptive form of treatment, the. 
 work being based on a careful study of conditions and needs as 
 developed in the best American mills. 
 
 C, This volume will be found especially adapted for purposes 
 of self -instruction and home study, fitted not only to meet the 
 needs of the beginner in textile art, but also to serve as a ref- 
 erence work and instruction manual full of information and 
 suggestions of great practical value to the most advanced and 
 experienced textile worker. 
 
 241093 
 
COTTON FIBER. 
 
 found the cotton plant growing in that region which is now Texas 
 and Louisiana. 
 
 Summing the matter up, we are led to believe that on a belt 
 of the earth's surface coinciding very nearly with the cotton belt of 
 to-day, the plant was found either in a wild or cultivated state in 
 the earliest ages of which we have records. 
 
 At the present day the cotton-raising territory includes practi- 
 cally the whole of India, parts of China and Japan, Central Asia, 
 the valley of the Nile in Egypt, and Syria in the Old World. 
 In the New World, the Southern States and their islands, Mexico, 
 Brazil, Peru, and several islands in the Pacific. 
 
 The following diagram shows approximately the proportions 
 of the world's crop raised in the various countries mentioned. 
 The figures given represent bales of five hundred pounds each. ' 
 
 World's Crop 1892-93 11,950,000 
 
 United States 1892-93 6,700.000 
 
 India 1892-93 2,200,000 
 
 China 1892-93 1,200,000 
 
 Egypt 1892-93 1,000,000 
 
 South America 1892-93 225,000 
 
 COTTON IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 According to the most reliable records, the first cotton culti- 
 vated in the American colonies was in Virginia, in 1609. 
 
 A more extensive effort at cotton cultivation was undertaken 
 in the same colony in 1621, at which time "cotton wool " was 
 quoted at eight shillings per pound. English colonists in the 
 Carolinas undertook the cultivation of cotton about 1660. 
 
 The first export of any considerable amount of cotton occurred 
 in 1770, at which time twenty bales were shipped to Liverpool. 
 
 One hundred years later the exports amounted to about three 
 million bales, and at the present time the export of American 
 cotton is between six and seven million bales annually. 
 
 The following diagram allows a comparison between the 
 world's crop and the crop of the United States for the years 
 1893 and 1900. It will be seen that in 1900 Texas alone pro- 
 duced thirty-four per cent of the crop of the United States, and 
 about twenty-five per cent of the world's crop. 
 
 12 
 
COTTON FIBER. 
 
 World's Crop 1893 and 1900 
 
 United States 1893 and 1900 
 
 Texas 1900 
 
 The following table gives approximately the amounts of cotton 
 raised in the different state.* of the United States for the years 
 1870, 1895 and 1900. The figures given represent bales of five 
 hundred pounds each. 
 
 1870 1895 190O 
 
 Alabama 429,500 1,000,000 1,023,000 
 
 Arkansas 248,000 8')0,000 818,000 
 
 Georgia 474,000 1,300,000 1,203,000 
 
 Louisiana 351,000 600,000 705,000 
 
 Mississippi 565,090 1,200,000 1,046,000 
 
 North Carolina 145,000 465,000 477,000 
 
 South Carolina 224,500 800,000 748,000 
 
 Texas 350,000 3,270,000 3,438,000 
 
 All others 225,000 410.000 670,000 
 
 Total 3,012.000 9,901,000 10,123,000 
 
 BOTANICAL VARIETIES. 
 
 Cotton is the most widely cultivated and manufactured of all 
 the textiles, and is the product of a plant belonging to the Malva- 
 ceae or Mallow family, to which- family also belong the Mallow 
 Hollyhock and Okia. It is known scientifically by its generic 
 name, Gossypium. 
 
 Among the early botanists much confusion existed in regard 
 to the proper classification of the species growing in different parts 
 of the world, their classifications ranging from three to eighty-eight 
 species. It is generally agreed that Dr. Boyle's classification 
 covers those cottons known to commerce, and can be accepted as 
 satisfactory for all practical purposes. His classification gives 
 G. Arboreum, G. Barbadense, G. Herbaceum, and G. Hirsutum. 
 
 G-ossypium Arboreum, or Tree Cotton. This cotton is a peren- 
 nial, varying in height from six to twenty feet, and sometimes 
 attains a diameter of five inches; the flowers are brownish red, 
 seed green, and adhering strongly to the fibers. The fibers are 
 of a yellowish tinge, soft, silky, and an inch or less in length. 
 This cotton cannot be considered as a cultivated variety, and com- 
 paratively little is used. 
 
 Grossypium Barbadense. This species is so called from the 
 
 13 
 
6 COTTON FIBER. 
 
 fact that it is a native of Barbadoes. It lias a yellowish blossom, 
 a black seed which is free from the hairy covering of other varie- 
 ties, and is distinctly shrubby in growth. Height from six to ten 
 feet. Commercially, this is a very valuable- and important cotton, 
 being fine and long stapled. The long, silky cotton known as 
 Sea Island, and the more valuable of Egyptian cottons, belong to 
 this species. By cultivation this species has been extended to the 
 West Indies, the coast of the Southern States and their islands, 
 Central America, Jamaica, Porto Rico, Egypt, Island of Bourbon 
 and Australia. 
 
 The yield of lint from Sea Island cotton is in smaller propor- 
 tion than from any other kind of cotton grown in this country, 
 but on account of the length and quality of its fiber it is adapted 
 to the finest classes of goods, and on that account can be considered 
 a very valuable variety. 
 
 Gossypium Herbaceum. -This is undoubtedly the hardiest 
 variety of cotton, and on that account has the widest geographical 
 range. Most of the cotton produced in the Old World is of this 
 species, which is generally considered to be of Asiatic origin. It 
 is an annual, and herbaceous in nature ; average height, five feet. 
 It has yellow seeds covered with a gray down, fibers adhering 
 strongly to the seeds. Staple of medium length. This cotton is 
 grown in Arabia, India, China, Turkey and Egypt, as well as in 
 this country. 
 
 G-ossypium Hirsutum. This variety is so named on account 
 of the hairy character of the plant. Maximum height about six 
 feet, but varying greatly in different locations and soils. Seeds 
 are covered with a greenish down. Staple white, and regular in 
 length. The greater proportion of Gulf and Upland cotton culti- 
 vated in the United States belongs to this species, though some 
 varieties have more of the characteristics of the Herbaceum 
 type. 
 
 Another species of cotton, G. Peruvanium, is often given, but 
 many botanists include this with G. Barbadense. This cotton is 
 a native of Peru, and is of some importance. Its chief character- 
 istic seems to be a harsh, woolly condition of the fiber, though of 
 good length. 
 
 14 
 
COTTON FIBER. 
 
 CULTIVATION OF AHERICAN COTTON. 
 
 The methods of cultivation and the time of planting and 
 picking vary in the different localities of the cotton-raising por- 
 tion of the United States, and is due to differences in soil and 
 temperature. Planting is done as early as possible; in fact as 
 soon as danger from frosts has passed. There can be considered 
 two distinct periods in the life of the cotton plant. The first is 
 from the time of planting to midsummer, when every effort 
 is made to secure a strong, vigorous growth. At this time pleiit} r 
 of moisture, sunshine and cultivation are necessary, and tropical 
 conditions are desired to secure and store the strength which will 
 later go to the seed. The second period is from midsummer to 
 the time of picking. Cultivation is now stopped, 
 the ground is allowed to become hard and com- 
 pact, and dry, cooler weather is desirable. 
 These conditions tend to retard the further 
 growth of the plant, and allow the stored 
 strength to go to the seed. 
 
 Cotton is planted in rows three or four 
 feet apart, and appears above the ground in 
 about ten days. As soon as the plants are 
 large enough to give evidence of strength the 
 rows are "chopped out," leaving hills from 
 eight to fifteen inches apart, and from . these 
 hills the weaker plants are pulled. From this 
 time until about the end of June the crop is 
 constantly cultivated by means of shovel plows, 
 scrapers and "scooties," to retain the moistuie in the soil and to 
 keep the field clear from weeds and crab grass. 
 
 In seventy-five or eighty days after planting the blossom 
 appears, and the plant continues to blossom for some time. These 
 .blossoms are at first a. creamy white; the second day they turn 
 pink or red, and the third day a purplish blue, at which time 
 they drop off. After the dropping of the blossom the seed-pod, 
 or "boll,"' commences to form, and attains its full growth in from 
 six to eight weeks. 
 
 When fully developed the boll bursts, commencing at the 
 apex. ;iii<l th' separations extending down the sides disclose from 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 
 15 
 
COTTON FIIJKIi. 
 
 three to five cells, divided by walls of membrane. (See Fig. 1.) 
 These cells contain from six to eleven seeds each, or from twenty- 
 eight to thirty-six in each boll. Each seid is covered With the 
 cotton, fibers, which are attached at one end in the same manner 
 as the hair on one's head. (See Fig. 2.) 
 
 When a sufficient number of bolls are open, picking com- 
 mences and lasts until frost kills the plant, or until all the ripe 
 fibers are picked, which may be some time after frost in the more 
 northerly sections. It is desirable to pick the cotton as fast as it 
 ripens and before it can be damaged by rain, wind and dust. 
 Cotton fields are, as a rule, picked over three times, generally in 
 September,. October and November, although in the Gulf States 
 picking commences in August and sometimes lasts through De- 
 cember. 
 
 Picking is done entirely by 
 hand, and the cotton placed in 
 bags hung around the neck or 
 waist of the picker, leaving both 
 hands free to work. These b:igs 
 are emptied into baskets as fast 
 as filled, and a record of the 
 weight taken, as all picking is 
 paid for by weight. Seveial 
 
 forms of cotton-picking machines have been tried, but without 
 much success, as they gather too large a proportion of leaf and boll. 
 
 The price paid for picking is from forty to fifty cents per 
 hundred pounds of seed cotton, which would be equal to from 
 one dollar and twenty cents to one dollar and a half per hundred 
 pounds of lint. Pickers have been known to gather as much as 
 four hundred pounds of seed cotton per day, but this is the highest 
 record, and was accomplished under the most favorable 'conditions. 
 An average day's picking is one hundred pounds. 
 
 The foregoing prices for picking apply to Uphmd cotton 
 under ordinary conditions. The picking of Sea Island cotton 
 commands better prices. From a cent to a cent and a half per 
 pound is generally paid. The yield of Sea Island is less per acre, 
 and more territory must be covered by the pickers for each pound 
 secured. -Owing to the greater value of Sea Island cotton more 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 16 
 
COTTON FT HER. 
 
 care is taken in picking, and, as a result, the cotton is more fiee 
 from leaf and dirt than Upland cotton. The seed cotton is hauled 
 from .the field to the storehouse, or directly to the cotton gin, 
 where the seed and lint are separated. 
 
 GINNING. 
 
 Ginning is the operation of removing the cotton fibers from 
 the seed. Of cotton picked, two-thirds hy weight consists of seed 
 and only one-third is material that can be used in the manufacture 
 of cloth. Some cottons are much easier to gin than others, as the 
 seeds are smooth, free from down, and adhere less strongly to the 
 fibers. Sea Island and Egyptian cottons belong to this class. 
 
 There are two styles of gins in use: the roller gin and the saw 
 gin; there are also several forms of each, differing in mechanical 
 construction but similar in principle and operation. 
 
 The origin of the roller gin dates from the time of the early 
 cultivation of cotton in India. The original roller gin, known as 
 the foot-roller, consisted simply of a flat stone and a round wooden 
 roll. The cotton was spread over the stone and a rolling motion 
 imparted to the roll by the foot of the worker, the effect being to 
 detach the fibers from the seed and force the seed aw.iy from the 
 fibeis. Tins primitive form of gin was employed only for hard 
 seeded cotton, and the product of one person was only about five 
 pounds per day. 
 
 The next step in advance gave an improvement over the foot- 
 roller, and was known as the " Churka." This " machine " is of 
 very ancient origin, it was formerly used in most of the cotton- 
 growing countries, and can be found in some districts of India 
 to-day. It consisted of two rollers : an upper one of iron about half 
 an inch in diameter, and a lower one of wood about two inches 
 in diameter. These rolls were revolved toward each other, and 
 were fixed in rigid bearings, very close together. The cotton was 
 fed by hand to these rolls, which grasped the fibers and passed 
 them between the rolls. The fibers were freed from the seed by 
 this action, as the seed was too large to pass through the limited 
 space between the rolls. The action of this gin was very easy on 
 the cotton fiber, but the product was small, about eight or ten 
 pounds a day being the capacity of the machine. 
 
 17 
 
10 COTTON FIBER. 
 
 The modern roller gin, of which there are several forms used in 
 this country lor Sealsland cotton, may be briefly described as fol- 
 lows : The seed cotton is fed on a table, or by an endless apron, to 
 a leather roller, generally of walrus hide. Along the face of this 
 roller, where the seed is delivered, is a steel blade, the edge of 
 which is set close to the surface of the roll, and prevents the 
 passage of seed. The leather-covered roll revolves toward the 
 steel blade, or " doctor," and being rough on its surface draws 
 the fibers under the blade and away from the seed. 
 
 There is a rapidly oscillating comb which knocks the seed 
 away from the "doctor" after its fibers have been engaged and 
 drawn under by the rapidly revolving roll. The cleaned seeds 
 fall through slots in the feeding table, and the fibers are cleaned 
 from the roll and delivered by a revolving brush. 
 
 The cotton fiber receives little if any damage from the action 
 of the roller gin, and in this particular the roller gin is considered 
 far superior to the saw gin. The chief disadvantage of the roller 
 gin is its limited production, being under average conditions about 
 two bales per day. 
 
 A late form of roller gin, known as the Prior gin, differs 
 from others in the construction of the cylinder. In this gin the 
 revolving cylinder is covered with a lagging composed of horse- 
 hair and rubber, giving a rough surface, which readily grasps the 
 cotton fiber. The production of. this -gin is somewhat in advance 
 of that of the ordinary roller gin, but is much less than that of the 
 average saw gin. 
 
 Roller gins are built with both single and double rollers. 
 
 The saw gin (Fig. 3), w r hich is generally used in this country 
 for everything but Sea Island cotton, was invented by Eli Whitney 
 in 1794. The modern saw gin consists of a box or chamber, M. 
 into which the seed cotton is automatically fed by an endless spiked 
 apron. . One side of this receptacle consists of a grate of metal 
 bars or ribs, ('. Through the .slots of this grate project notched 
 steel discs or saws, B, from forty to eighty in number, arranged on 
 an arbor with collars between. The teeth of these saws, which 
 revolve at a speed of three hundred to five hundred revolutions 
 per minute, engage the fiber and pull it from the seed and through 
 the grate, allowing the cleaned seeds to fall through a slot, K, at 
 
 18 
 
COTTON FIBER. 
 
 11 
 
 the bottom of the box. The cotton fiber clinging to the teeth of 
 the saws is removed by a rapidly revolving brush, H, which, aided 
 by the current of air which it generates, throws the ginned cotton 
 on the floor of the ginhouse, or against condensing cages, which 
 deliver it. 
 
 Saw gins are also built with a double set of saws, but their 
 construction is substantially the same. A saw gin of sixty saws, 
 at a speed of four hundred revolutions per minute, will giu about 
 ten bales per day, although a smaller production would give a 
 better quality of product. 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 There are several conditions which will cause a decided 
 damage to the cotton in the operation of ginning. An experi- 
 enced judge of cotton can readily detect the result of improper 
 ginning by an examination of cotton in the bale. 
 
 Cut staple is the result of too high saw speed, or of having 
 the teeth of the saws too sharp on the edge. This damage is a 
 serious one, as it greatly, weakens the fibers that are not actually 
 cut by the operation. 
 
 IS 
 
12 COTTON FIBER. 
 
 Neppy cotton is another serious condition which may arise 
 from ovprfi'o \vdJng_thA-gtn7 or from the fact that the saws are set 
 too close to the Lars of the grate. Neps are little tangled fibers, 
 or tangled bunches of fibers, which are hard to remove from the 
 cotton in the after processes, and the presence of neps in any con- 
 siderable quantity condemns cotton which otherwise might grade 
 well. 
 
 Stringy or "tailed" cotton is the result of ginning when the 
 cotton is too_wet. Although not as serious a defect as the two 
 preceding, it has an influence on the grading of the stock and on 
 the action of the cotton in manufacturing operations. 
 
 The damage to the fiber in ginning is not present to any 
 extent when roller gins are used, and for that reason roller-ginned 
 cotton Avill bring a better price, other conditions equal, than saw- 
 ginned cotton. There has for some time been an effort to secure 
 the adoption of some form of roller gin in the South, some manu- 
 facturers claiming that roller-ginned cotton is worth to them one- 
 half to one cent per pound more than saw-ginned cotton. Up to 
 the present time no great advance has been made in this direction, 
 but many predict that the roller gin will eventually displace the 
 present form of saw gin. 
 
 BALING. 
 
 After being ginned the cotton is ready for baling. There 
 are several forms of baling press, the most common of which is 
 the screw press connected with the ginhonse. This press gives 
 a bale which on reaching the market or shipping point is again 
 compressed. 
 
 The square bale, or American bale (Fig. 4), though varying 
 greatly in size, is supposed to be fifty-four inches long, twenty- 
 seven inches wide, and to weigh five hundred pounds. The thick- 
 ness depends upon the amount of compression, and averages about 
 sixteen inches. This bale is covered with coarse burlap bagging 
 and bound with iron hoops or " ties." The American bale has the 
 reputation of being the poorest bale made. The ties, six or eight 
 in number, are hardly sufficient to confine the bale, the covers are 
 generally of poor quality, and the weight of bagging and ties a 
 large per cent of the gross weight. The loss of room in shipping 
 
COTTON FIBER, 
 
 13 
 
 and the loss of cotton and damage is considerable ; in short, the 
 bale is clumsy, dirty, expensive and far from satisfactory. 
 
 Egyptian cotton is received in this country in much better 
 shape. The cotton is completely covered by the bagging and 
 bound by eleven or twelve ties. The Egyptian bale (Fig. 5) is 
 compressed to a density of about forty-five pounds to the cubic 
 foot, and weighs on an average seven hundred pounds. 
 
 Peruvian cotton is received in smaller bales, of about two 
 hundred pounds weight, and generally in good condition. 
 
 There are two other systems of baling, of comparatively recent 
 date, 'which are attracting considerable attention among manufac- 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 Fig. 5. 
 
 turns and cotton planters. One of these is called the Bessonette 
 or "round-lap " system. By this system the lint as it comes from 
 the gin is blown into a reservoir or bat former, where it is con- 
 verted into an even, continuous sheet. - This sheet is wound around 
 an arbor or core under pressure, the pressure being light at first 
 and increasing with the size of the roll. The pressure is applied 
 by revolving iron rolls until the bale becomes of full size and 
 density. By this method of rolling under pressure, bales are 
 produced which are twenty-two inches in diameter, thirty-four 
 and forty-eight inches in length, and averaging 275 and 425 
 pounds each. The density of this bale is about thirty-five pounds 
 to the cubic foot as against about twenty-two pounds in the 
 American bale. With tlie Bessonette bale no hoops are needed, 
 
14 COTTON FIBER. 
 
 as the bale is covered with a strip of cotton cloth before the 
 baling pressure is released, and the ends of the bale are capped 
 with cloth, also. Of the cotton crop of 1900, about five hundred 
 thousand bales were of this type. 
 
 Another form of cylindrical bale is the " Lowry bale." This 
 bale is formed by feeding the cotton loose from the gin into a 
 receptacle, the bottom of which is a revolving plate containing 
 several slots radiating from a center to the circumference. -Undwr 
 this revolving plate is a cylindrical chamber, into which the cotton 
 is first packed by hand. The bottom of this chamber is held by 
 hydraulic pressure. The cotton in the receptacle passes through 
 the slots in the revolving plate, and by the circular motion of the 
 plate is drawn through and placed very compactly in the chamber 
 below. As the bale builds, the pressure of the cotton overcomes 
 the hydraulic pressure, and the bottom of the cylinder is forced 
 downward until the bale has attained the required length. This 
 bale is secured by several wire ties placed longitudinally around 
 the bale and afterward enclosed in cotton cloth. This bale is of 
 uniform size, eighteen inches in diameter and thirty-six inches in 
 length, and is compressed to a density of about forty-five pounds 
 per cubic foot, weighing, with cover, about 250 pounds. There 
 were 122 presses of this type operated throughout the country 
 for the crop of 1900, producing about 375,000 bales, 
 
 There are several advantages possessed by both of these 
 cylindrical bales over the old-style American bale. They. are 
 easier and cheaper to handle, less waste from sampling, cleaner, 
 smaller percentage of bagging and ties, less risk from fire and 
 greater salvage in case of fire. The insurance and freight are 
 also lower. The Bessonette bale is sometimes called the Under- 
 writers bale. 
 
 The tare, or bagging, and ties on the American bale amount 
 to twenty-four to thirty pounds per bale, or about five or six per 
 cent. On either form of cylindrical bale the cover weighs two 
 and one-half or three pounds per bale, giving less than two per 
 cent of tare. 
 
 The position of the cotton in the Bessonette bale can be com- 
 pared to a roll of wide tape. In the Lowry bale its form is more 
 that of a flat coiled spring. 
 
COTTOR FIBER. 15 
 
 COTTON FIBER. 
 
 Although a knowledge of the diseases to which a cotton plant 
 is liable^ the insects which affect its growth, and the cost of pro- 
 duction in various localities is interesting and valuable, a considera- 
 tion of the structure of the fiber and the commercial varieties and 
 gradings is far more important* 
 
 In every lot of cotton three classes of fibers can be recognized: 
 the ripe, half-ripe and unripe. A perfect cotton _fibexooftsits of 
 four parts : ^"'gty_aJi_iiiLt^_jiimbra^^ rpa ^ npll^lnsp^ 
 
 which constitutes about eighty-five per cent of the fiber; third, a 
 'central spiral_deposit of harder nature ; and fourth, a centraL 
 secretimi_corrfispDiiding to the pith of a quilL 
 
 Covering the fiber is a varnish amounting to less than one 
 per cent of the weight of the fiber, and known as "cotton wax." 
 This is the substance which makes the fiber slow to absorb mois- 
 ture, and which in absorbent cotton has been removed by chemical 
 action. 
 
 The cotton fiber, which appears to be a smooth, round fila- 
 ment to the naked eye, has under the microscope a very different 
 appearance. The ripe cotton fiber, when seen under the micro- 
 scope, has the appearance of a collapsed, twisted tube with corded 
 and slightly corrugated edges, and somewhat resembles an elon- 
 gated corkscrew. These convolutions or twists of the fiber are 
 peculiar to cotton, and are not present to any extent in any other 
 fiber, either .vegetable or animal. To these convolutions is due 
 to a great extent the value of the cotton fiber. The twisting 
 which the fibers receive in the process of spinning interlocks these 
 convolutions of the fiber and gives great strength to the yarn. It 
 also overcomes any tendency of the fibers to slip over each other 
 when tension is applied. Fig. 6 shows the appearance of various 
 fibers under the microscope. A and B represent the appearance 
 of fibers of wool, showing the scales which in spinning are inter- 
 locked, which gives considerable strength to woolen yarn. C 
 represents the appearance of a ripe cotton fiber, and shows the 
 twists or convolutions and the corded edges. D represents a fiber 
 of silk and E of camel's-hair. These twists of the cotton fiber are 
 not as numerous in half-ripe fiber, and are almost lacking in the 
 unripe or immature fiber. Owing to this fact the unripe fiber is 
 
16 
 
 COTTON FIBER. 
 
 of little value to manufacturers. It is also lacking in strength, 
 and is slow to take dye, as its structure is less porous. Unripe 
 fiber can be detected by the eye on account of its glossy, trans- 
 parent appearance. 
 
 Fig. 7 shows the appearance of several cotton fibers at dif- 
 ferent stages of maturity. A and B are the unripe fibers, C the 
 half-ripe, and D and E are the fully ripe or matu.re fibers. 
 
 Fig. 8 represents cross- 
 sections of the same. A rep- 
 resents the unripe fibers, B 
 the half ripe and C the fully 
 ripe. 
 
 The microscope can 
 therefore be depended upon 
 to identify the cotton fiber. 
 Other .tests, however, can be 
 
 v\ r^^^ 
 
 made. I The burning of the 
 fiber will distinguish between 
 cotton and wool or silk. The 
 cotton fiber burns with a 
 flash, leaving a white ash, 
 while wool or silk emit a 
 disagreeable odor, leaving a 
 small lump of carbonized mat- 
 Fig. G. (^ ter on the end of the fiber.! 
 
 |A strong solution of caustic 
 soda will entirely destroy wool or silk; the effect of wetting a 
 cotton fiber with caustic soda is to distend the fiber and almost 
 eradicate the convolutions, leaving it stronger than before.! It also 
 gives it the appearance of a round glass rod which has Ueen bent 
 in every direction. 
 
 The value of cotton depends principally on the lengtli, 
 strength and fineness of the staple. The diameter of cotton fibers 
 vary from %--$-$ inch to y^Q- inch, and length from -*- inch to 2| 
 inches. De Bowman estimates that there are 140,000,000 fibers 
 to t\\e pound. The number of convolutions or twists in the cotton 
 fiber is greater and more regular in some varieties than in others. 
 In Sea Island cotton the convolutions are very regular, and have 
 
 
 24 
 
COTTON FIBE1I. 
 
 17 
 
 been estimated as between three and four hundred per inch of 
 fiber length. Poorer varieties of cotton have less frequent convo- 
 lutions, as low in some cases as one hundred per inch of length. 
 
 As the authorities on 
 the lengths of cotton fiber 
 do not entirely agree in all 
 cases, it will be safe in 
 treating this subject to give 
 the average length, diam- 
 eter and general character- 
 istics of a few of the more 
 important commercial vari- 
 eties in the order of their 
 length of staple. The 
 numbers and kinds of yarn 
 for which the different 
 lengths and varieties of 
 cotton are used will be 
 
 found to vary widely in different locations and under different 
 conditions. These numbers are for warp yarns, and, in many 
 cases, the cotton can be spun into somewhat finer numbers for 
 filling yarn, as the required strength for filling is not as great. 
 
 Sea Island is by far the 
 finest cotton grown, and there- 
 fore careful attention is given to 
 the picking, ginning arid baling. 
 The best of Sea Island cotton is 
 grown on Edisto, Port Royal 
 and St. Helena Islands off the 
 coast of South Carolina, and the 
 Cumberland Islands off the coast 
 f Georgia. Some Sea Island 
 cotton is grown on the low por- 
 tion of the coasts of these States. It has a long, glossy, silky 
 liber, with regular convolutions, and contains much unripe fiber ; 
 it is usually combed. The black seed free from hairy covering 
 makes the ginning comparatively easy. It is ginned on roller 
 gins only. It is used largely for the manufacture of sewing thread 
 
 25 
 
18 COTTON FIBER, 
 
 and for the finest of lawns and muslins. It is regularly spun 
 from 150 to 300, and commercially as fine as 600 ; has been spun 
 experimentally as high as 2,000. 
 
 The territory adapted to the raising of this crop is very 
 limited, which accounts for the comparatively small amount 
 grown. The Sea Island crop of 1900 amounted to 88,294 bales, 
 a decrease of 8,985 bales from the crop of the preceding year. 
 The principal markets for Sea Island cotton are Charleston, S. C., 
 and Savannah, Ga. The average price obtained for 1900 was for 
 South Carolina, $.256 ; Georgia, $.20, and Florida, $.19 per pound. 
 
 Egyptian Cotton. The brown Egyptian cotton is used to a 
 considerable extent in this country. It is a long, silky, clean 
 cotton, from a dark to light golden color. It contains a large per 
 cent of short fibers and is generally combed. The color of this 
 cotton is due to the presence of a natural substance known as 
 " Endochrome." Length of fiber from 1^ to 1* inches, a large 
 proportion running about 1 ^ inches. This cotton ranks next to 
 Sea Island, and larger amounts are being imported each year. It 
 is largely used for the better grades of underwear and hosiery, and 
 to some extent for thread for lace work. The yarn made from 
 this cotton is one of the best for mercerizing, as the fiber is natu- 
 rally smooth. It is grow.n in the valley of the Nile in Egypt. 
 The principal market is Alexandria. The imports of this cotton 
 into the United States were about sixty thousand bales in 1895. 
 
 G-ulf cotton, or New Orleans as it is known in England, is 
 the best of strictly American cotton, for Sea Island cotton, 
 although grown in this country, is not generally ranked as an 
 American cotton, but occupies a class by itself. Gulf cotton 
 properly includes many varieties, known as Peeler-Benders, Red 
 River, Allan seed, etc. These last varieties of Gulf cotton some- 
 what resemble the poorer Sea Island grades. Peeler is one of the 
 best of the Gulf cottons that are raised in sufficient amounts to be 
 of commercial value. It is long, silky, and of bluish while color, 
 generally combed, and a fine working cotton, somewhat similar in 
 that respect to Egyptian. Gulf cotton, as a rule, ranges from 1| 
 to 1| inches in length of staple, though some of the better varie- 
 ties are longer. Gulf cotton is used for warps from 30 to 50, and 
 for filling from 50 to 70. 
 
COTTON FIBER. 19 
 
 Upland Cotton. This is the most common and useful cotton 
 grown and constitutes the greater part of the world's crop. The 
 fibers are very uniform in length ; color generally good, and is a 
 strong, reliable cotton. This cotton is grown in Georgia, North 
 and South Carolina, Alabama and Virginia. There are many 
 varieties of Upland cotton, taking their names from States or 
 localities where they are grown. Upland cotton is used for warp 
 yarns up to 38 and for filling to 48. Upland staple ranges from J 
 inch to 1^ inches in length, a large portion reaching li inches. 
 The average price for middling Upland 1| inches for the year 
 1900 was $.0896+ per pound. 
 
 Texas cotton is somewhat similar to Upland, but slightly 
 shorter and more harsh, though of very good quality. The char- 
 acter of the crop varies largely from year to year. During a dry 
 year it is likely to be unusually harsh, short and brittle, and is 
 often "tinged" or off color. The production of Texas cotton 
 is increasing, and more care is constantly being given to its culti- 
 vation and preparation. Texas cotton is especially suited for warp 
 varns from 24 to 36. Length of staple from I inch to li inches. 
 
 / o -L o 5 
 
 This is the best of American cottons for use in mixing with wool. 
 Principal market, Galveston. 
 
 Peruvian cotton is comparatively little used in this country. 
 It is very harsh and wiry. Red Peruvian is a deep reddish brown 
 in color, the white Peruvian being of a cream tint. The small 
 amount that is consumed is used largely for woolen adulteration, 
 as the fiber more nearly resembles wool in feeling than that of any 
 cotton grown. 
 
 GRADING. 
 
 The grading of cotton is entirely a matter of judgment and 
 experience, and no definite rules can be given. The cotton 
 grader is one who from long experience and numberless compar- 
 isons has educated his eye and hand to distinguish between the 
 grades and recognize the differences in quality which would add 
 to or detract from the market value of the cotton. Cotton is 
 universally sold (except in some districts of the South) by 
 samples and not by inspection of the bales. It is also graded in 
 the same way. 
 
 27 
 
20 COTTON FIBER. 
 
 In grading cotton the principal points to be taken into con- 
 sideration are : (First, the strength and evenness in length of the 
 staple; second, its freedom from "neps," "leaf-motes," sand and 
 other foreign substances, and third, the color or evenness of color.X 
 
 The strength of the staple is important in' determining the^ 
 grade, as that is one of "the principal points of value of the stock. 
 
 The evenness in length is also very important, for a cotton 
 that is of good average length and that is clean may contain a 
 large proportion of very short fibers, in which case the strength of 
 the yarn is considerably diminished. 
 
 The freedom of the cotton from foreign impurities is one of the 
 principal factors in determining the grade, for not only must the 
 impurities be considered as waste, but their removal, if present in 
 considerable amounts, adds greatly to the cost of the manufac- 
 tured product. The presence of foreign matter is largely due to 
 carelessness in picking and ginning. A certain amount of leaf, 
 boll, husk, seed and sand is present in any cotton, and if this 
 amount is considerable the grade of the cotton is lowered accord- 
 ingly. The presence of " neps," " motes " and immature fiber* 
 also detracts from the value of the cotton and influences the 
 grading. 
 
 "Neps" are tangled fibers or minute panglens of several 
 fibers. Their appearance is that of a small white "fleck," hardly 
 larger than a grain of sand, which, if examined under a micro- 
 scope, will be found to consist of a ball of fibers so rolled and 
 knotted together as to make their separation an impossibility. 
 " Neps " are caused by improper ginning when found in cotton 
 samples, though they are often produced in the manufacturing 
 process in the picker and card. 
 
 " Motes " are minute pieces of seed, or immature seeds, and 
 are hard to remove in the process of manufacture, especially if 
 they are "bearded motes," or small pieces of seed to which 
 adheres the downy seed covering. 
 
 Another condition to be taken into consideration in the grad- 
 ing is the color of the cotton. A pure white cotton is desirable, 
 and it is important that the color or tint shall be uniform through- 
 out a lot of cotton. This is especially true if the cotton is to be 
 used for filling yarn, as in this case it will show largely on the 
 
 28 
 
COTTON FIBER. 
 
 21 
 
 face of the goods, for it is used without any dressing or sizing, 
 which might effect or modify its color. Should a sample of 
 cotton show portions that were .staine.l, or off color, the grading 
 would suffer accordingly, and in some cases the cotton would be 
 classed as ;t tinged." 
 
 Cotton is usually graded according to a standard agreed upon 
 in the leading cotton markets. The American system consists of 
 seven full grades, the best of which is " fair." They are : 
 
 Fail- 
 Middling Fair 
 Good Middling 
 Middling 
 Low Middling 
 Good Ordinary 
 Ordinary 
 
 These grades are subdivided into quarter, half and three- 
 quarter grades, which express the minutest difference in condition 
 and cleanliness. In the market the quarter and three-quarter 
 grades are seldom recognized. The quarter, half and three- 
 quarter grades are expressed by the prefixes, "barely," "strict" 
 and " fully." 
 
 The following table presents the gradings of American cotton 
 in as comprehensive a manner as possible : 
 
 QUARTER GRADE. 
 
 Barely Fair 
 Barely Middling Fair 
 Barely Good Middling 
 Barely Middling 
 Barely Low Middling 
 Barely Good Ordinary 
 
 HALF GRADE. 
 
 Strict Middling Fair 
 Strict Good Middling 
 Strict Middling 
 Strict Low Middling 
 Strict Good Ordinary 
 Strict Ordinary 
 
 THREE-QUARTER GRADE. 
 
 Fully Middling Fail- 
 Fully Good Middling 
 Fully Middling 
 Fully Low Middling 
 Fully Good Ordinary 
 Fully Ordinary 
 
 FULL GRADE. 
 
 Middling Fair 
 Good Middling 
 Middling 
 Low Middling 
 Good Ordinary 
 Ordinary 
 Egyptian cotton is commonly divided into four grades. They 
 
 Good 
 
 Fully Good Fail- 
 Good Fail- 
 Fair 
 
 29 
 
2-2 COTTON FIBER. 
 
 Brazilian and Peruvian cotton usually have these grades : 
 Good Fail- 
 Fair 
 
 Middling Fail- 
 It will be seen from the foregoing that grade really means 
 the appearance of the cotton, particularly as to cleanliness. 
 
 In buying cotton for mill, use there are several important 
 points to be considered. First, the length of the staple. Second, 
 the strength of the staple. Third, the uniformity in length. 
 
 These facts are determined by a process known as " pulling 
 cotton." This process consists of grasping a small amount of 
 cotton' with both hands and pulling it apart. One-half is then 
 thrown away, and the ends of the fibers projecting from the half 
 which is retained are grasped between the thumb and forefinger 
 of the right hand with the thumb held uppermost and drawn from 
 the mass in the left hand, which is discarded. We now have a 
 tuft of cotton held at one end between the thumb and forefinger 
 of the right hand. With the left hand this tuft of fibers is 
 straightened out, the short fibers removed and the ends grasped 
 with the left hand. The right hand, or the forefinger and thumb 
 of the right hand, now straighten out the projecting fibers and re- 
 move the shorter fibars, leaving a little tuft of cotton, the fibers 
 of which are particularly uniform in length and parallel. This tuft 
 of straightened fibers can be measured to determine the length of 
 staple. They can be broken by firmly grasping the ends with the 
 forefinger and thumb of both hands, and the power required to 
 break gives the expert an idea of the strength of the staple. The 
 amount of short fiber removed in the pulling process determines 
 approximately the proportion of short fiber in the sample. 
 
 Something of harshness, strength and spinning qualities of 
 cotton is sometimes determined by noting the sound produced 
 by pulling apart a bunch of cotton held close to the ear. 
 
 After the length, strength and evenness have been determined, 
 the next points are : The amount of sand and foreign matter con- 
 tained ; the proportion of unripe fibers ; the color and evenness 
 of color, and the amount of moisture. 
 
 In examining a cotton sample to determine the amount of 
 impurity contained, it is fair to assume that a proportion of the 
 sand and dirt has been shaken out in the handling which a cotton 
 
 30 
 
COTTON FIBER. 23 
 
 sample receives, and on that account the sample will be slightly 
 cleaner than the original stojk. The amount of dirt in the cotton 
 must, however, be determined by the appearance of the sample 
 and the amount of sand and dirt on the paper in which the 
 sample is wrapped. 
 
 Unripe fibers can be detected by the eye on account of their 
 semitransparent, glossy appearance. " Neps " and " motes " are 
 also evident on close examination and inspection of the sample. 
 
 The color of a cotton sample can best be determined by com- 
 parison, and for such comparisons a north light is desirable. A 
 sample of cotton may seem of good color when examined alone, 
 and show a very decided tint when compared with other cotton 
 or with an object which is a clean white. The presence of blue 
 paper near a cotton sample has a tendency to neutralize the yellow 
 tint and make cotton appear a pure white. 
 
 " Tinged " cotton is cotton which is stained in spots from the 
 action of the juices from the crushed seed or plant, or from 
 the presence of coloring matter from the soil. Tinged cotton 
 should be avoided, especially for the manufacture of white goods. 
 
 The amount of moisture contained in the cotton cannot be 
 determined from the sample unless the sample be freshly drawn, 
 which is seldom the case. The odor of mildew, which is easily 
 detected, is an indication of excess of moisture in the bale from 
 which the sample is drawn. 
 
 In examining a bale of cotton at the mill, and in comparing it 
 with the sample by which the cotton was sold, which is commonly 
 done, the amount of moisture contained, if excessive, is easily 
 determined by the feeling of the cotton, or by holdii.j a handful 
 against the face. A more correct method of determining the 
 
 amount of moisture is by the " furnace test." 
 
 n j 
 n this case a handful of cotton from the bale is very care- 
 fully weighed on delicate scales and the weight noted. The cotton 
 is then subjected to the heat of a gas oven for several hours, at a 
 temperature from 170 to 180, and weighed again. This gives 
 the entire amount of moisture in the cotton. The cotton is now 
 allowed to remain for some time in the air, under normal condi- 
 tions, until it has absorbed a reasonable amount of moisture from 
 the air, after which it is again weighed. The difference between 
 
 31 
 
24 COTTON FIBER. 
 
 the first and last weighing gives the excess of moisture in the 
 cotton, which is often from two to four per cent. A certain 
 amount of moisture is desirable in working the stock, but manu- 
 facturers do not care to pay for large amounts of water/ (From 
 five to eight per cent of moisture is normal.) X 
 
 One very important condition to be kept in mind, in selecting 
 cotton for mill use, is to see that the samples are "even running" 
 as to length of staple. In other words, to see that one or more 
 bales of longer or shorter staple have not been mixed in with the 
 cotton. Long-staple cotton is more valuable than- short staple, all 
 other conditions being equal, but the presence of long staple with 
 the short causes an endless amount of trouble and annoyance in the 
 mill, as will be explained later, and on that account great care is 
 exercised to" be sure that the cotton in the several bales of one lot 
 is of about the same length of staple. 
 
 The purchase of cotton by the mills of New England is gen- 
 erally made from November to February inclusive, at which time 
 it is not unusual for a year's supply to be secured. 
 
 Cotton is generally sold to Northern manufacturers on cash 
 terms and delivered at New York, Full River or Boston. The 
 cotton is invoiced at gross weight, no allowance being made for 
 bagging and ties. Cotton shipped to England, or " The Conti- 
 nent," is invoiced at net weight, as it is the custom to purchase it 
 in that manner in those countries. 
 
 In invoicing cotton, or in purchasing cotton, the variety, 
 grade and length of staple are mentioned as well as the number 
 of bales and the weight of each. An order for-cotton might read 
 as follows: One hundred bales, Georgia Midland, Strict Middling, 
 inch and o'ne-eighth, or 
 
 500 Bales Texas Low Middling One inch. 
 
 OPENING AND MIXING. 
 
 The opening of the American bale simply consists in cutting 
 the ties, removing the bagging and ties, and breaking up and 
 shaking out the condensed mass of cotton. When the bale is 
 opened, the contents will be found in sheets, or layers, of condensed 
 cotton, due to the pressure exerted in baling. This cotton is hard 
 and compact, and before use must be allowed to expand. One 
 
COTTOX FIBER 
 
 25 
 
 advantage claimed for the round lap bale is that several bales can 
 be unrolled and fed to the opener, or breaker picker, at the same 
 time. In this case, however, the mixing is not as extensive as it 
 is when the cotton is taken from a pile consisting of many bales. 
 There is a machine in general use in England, but compara- 
 tively little known in this country, called the Bale Breaker. This 
 machine takes the condensed sheets of cotton as they come from 
 the bale aiid tears them apart, delivering them in smaller pieces, 
 and allowing the cotton to open or expand in the process. The 
 bale breaker, a common type of which is shown in Fig. 9, con- 
 sists of an endless apron, or lattice, on which the sheets of cotton 
 
 Fig. 9. 
 
 from the bale are placed. Directly in front of this traveling lat- 
 tice is a revolving feed roll which grasps the cotton from the 
 lattice and passes it over the pedals to the first pair of^fluted and 
 toothed rolls. There are usually three pairs of these rolls running 
 at increased speeds. As the cotton passes from the back to the 
 front of the machine the mass is pulled apart. 
 
 These rolls are driven by spur gearing and are posjtive in 
 their action ; the top roll in each case being weighted by stiff coil 
 springs. 7\The surface speed of the middle pair of rolls is about 
 three times that of the back roll, and of the front roll about seven 
 times that of the middle roll, which gives the surface speed of the 
 front roll about twenty-one times that of the back rollfor a draft 
 
 33 
 
26 
 
 COTTON FIBER. 
 
 of twenty-one.) The draft of the bale breaker, or the relation of 
 the surface speeds of the front and back roll, varies according to 
 conditions, but is commonly twenty to one to thirty to one, or a 
 draft of from twenty to thirty. 
 
 Another form of bale breaker is shown in Fig. 10. In this 
 case a swiftly revolving beater with projecting arms is employed 
 to still further open the cotton and remove a portion of the 
 heavier impurities. 
 
 The first process in the cotton mill after the bales have been 
 opened is the mixing. This is, or should be, a part of the process 
 of every mill, but in some cases its importance is underestimited. 
 By mixing we do not necessarily mean only the mixing of differ- 
 
 Fig. 10. 
 
 ent grades or varieties of cotton, but the mixing of different bales 
 of the same grade and variety. This is absolutely necessary to 
 produce the best results, for even when the different bales are of 
 the same variety, the same grade, and grown in the same locality, 
 and supposed to be of the same length of staple, there are likely 
 to be found slight differences in length, color and condition. 
 
 There is also a great difference in the amount of moisture in 
 different bales. Some are too dry to work well and some too 
 moist, and by mixing, the dry absorbs some of the moisture from 
 the damp bales, and a better average condition is secured. The 
 mixing also allows the "opening up" or expanding of the con- 
 densed cotton, leaving it in better shape for the action of the 
 beaters in the picking process. The common method of mixing 
 in this country is to provide extensive floor space back of the 
 
 34. 
 
COTTON FIBER. 27 
 
 feeders. The larger the better within reasonable limits. When 
 the bales are opened, a sheet or armful of cotton is taken from one 
 or more bales and scattered evenly over the floor. This is re- 
 peated with cotton from other bales until a pile or stack is formed 
 containing enough cotton for several days' run. This pile of 
 cotton is composed of many thin layers, each layer representing a 
 bale, more or less. When this cotton is fed to the machines it is 
 taken in as nearly vertical sections as possible, so that each armful 
 will contain parts of several bales. In this way a very thorough 
 mixing is secured, giving a uniform condition of cotton from start 
 to finish. Large mixings are to be preferred to small ones ; the 
 size being limited in many instances only by the floor space 
 available. 
 
 Many modifications of this process are to be found in dif- 
 ferent cotton mills. In some cases the bales are opened in the 
 storehouse, and the cotton from several bales fed into the hopper 
 of a distributor. From here the cotton is drawn by an air curmit 
 through sheet metal pipes and delivered on the floor of the picker- 
 room back of the feeders. 
 
 In some cases the mixing is done in large bins which have 
 movable floors, so that, as the cotton is used, the stack can be 
 moved forward to be at all times within convenient distance of the 
 feeders, and mixing can be carried on at the back of the bin. In 
 this case the cotton from several bales is thrown into the bin 
 through a hole in the floor above. With this arrangement the 
 mixing is a continuous operation and can be performed at the 
 back of the bin while the cotton from the front is being used. 
 
 In English spinning mills there are in many instances elal>- 
 orate preparations for very large mixings ; in some cases sufficient 
 amounts to last during a month's run. This is necessary on ac- 
 count of using so many different grades and varieties of cotton, in 
 which case the mixing of several kinds at a different price, each to 
 produce a certain result at a certain cost, becomes a fine art. 
 
 Variation in color or tint in the yarn produced is less liable 
 to occur where large mixings are used. 
 
 When different cottons should be mixed in exact proportions, 
 or when a combination of colored and white cotton is used to pro- 
 duce a certain tint, the mixing can be done more correctly at the 
 
28 COTTON FIBE1I. 
 
 intermediate or finisher picker. This will be explained more 
 fully later. If mixed in the stack, the proportion of each would 
 not run evenly from start to finish, therefore producing yarn 
 which would vary slightly in color from time to time. 
 
 36 
 
u 
 
 S5 C 
 
 as a 
 
 w <j 
 
 .e 
 
 . be 
 
 ou s 
 
 O o 
 Q "5 
 
 a : 
 
 a 
 
 Q cs 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 OPENING AND PICKING. 
 
 When upland cotton has been ginned, it is made ready for 
 transportation into loosely packed bales, in which form it is often 
 used in nearby cotton mills, but for shipment to any distance, by 
 railroad or steamship, the bales are collected at some central point 
 and compressed by heavy presses and made less bulky, saving 
 much space. 
 
 The dimensions of the standard bale are 54 inches length by 
 27 inches width, the thickness depending upon the pressure to 
 which it has been subjected, and is intended to weigh 500 
 pounds. But, as a fact, the bales vary from 52 to 72 inches in 
 length, from 24 to 30 inches in width, 18 to 24 inches in thick- 
 ness, and weigh from 400 to 600 pounds. 
 
 They are covered with bagging and bound with hoop-iron 
 bands, or ties, fastened together by iron buckles. The bagging 
 is of such coarsely woven stuff that it is very easily torn and 
 offers but scant protection against dust, rain and fire, and, as the 
 bales are often allowed to stay in a cotton yard some time before 
 shipment, the cotton on the surface becomes very much dam- 
 aged. It is certain that this method of baling and handling can- 
 not add to the value of the cotton, and custom alone seems respon- 
 sible for it. 
 
 Another form in which cotton is packed is the " round bale." 
 These, as the name implies, are cylindrical, and are of two 
 lengths, 35 and 48 inches ; and 22 and 25 inches, respectively, in 
 diameter. They are made by feeding the cotton to a revolving 
 core, or arbor, which is held in position between two iron rolls by 
 a heavy rubber belt. One of the rolls is stationary and the 
 other, which is kept firmly held against the bale by hydraulic 
 pressure, recedes as the bale increases in size. The friction of the 
 belt and rolls causes the bat to be wound into a hard, firm roll, 
 
 39 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 which weighs about 35 pounds to the cubic foot. When the bale 
 has reached the full diameter, and before it is removed from the 
 press, it is wound with one turn of cotton cloth, which is sewed on. 
 
 Cotton that is grown in different localities varies in quality, 
 and as bales from widely separated districts are likely to be used 
 in the same mill, careful selection i* necessary. Wide experience 
 and good judgment are required to get the be.st results. 
 
 To obtain as nearly as possible uniformity in quality, length 
 of staple, and, for some varieties of work, color, and the cotton is 
 mixed ; that is, the bales to be used are placed on edge, the ties 
 and bagging removed. "They are then turned on their sides, and 
 a sheet of cotton taken from each in turn, by hand, and thrown 
 into the cotton bin, ready for the opener. By this means an 
 average is obtained. 
 
 Cotton which is to be spun into fine yarn must be long 
 staple, uniform in color, and clean, while that to be used for 
 goods which are to be bleached may require long staple, while 
 color and cleanliness are not so essential, but no rule for mixing 
 the different varieties and grades can be followed. Some mills 
 use lower grades of stock than others for the same class of work 
 with apparently equally good results. 
 
 In many of the smaller mills it is the custom to mix enough 
 cotton to last three or four days, or even longer, if space in the 
 opening and mixing room will permit, and, by allowing it to air 
 for several days, an equalization of the moisture in the whole 
 mass takes place. In large mills, on the contrary, it is usually the 
 practice, because of the amount consumed, to take the cotton from 
 the bales and throw it directly into the feeder of the opener. It 
 is not necessary to air the cotton, as it is bought in large quantities 
 and stored in cotton houses, where it of ton remains for a long 
 period and is therefore partially dried. 
 
 Opening and picking, which is the first mechanical process 
 the cotton undergoes, is, briefly stated, the removal of as much 
 foreign substance as possible with the least injury to the fibers. 
 The foreign substances found are particles of sand, which have 
 been blown about and have become lodged in the bolls ; dirt, 
 which, during a heavy rain has spattered upon the bolls, which 
 grow low upon the stalks; particles of dried leaves and stalks, 
 
 40 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 gathered in picking, and pieces of eed and husks, broken in 
 ginning. 
 
 The various styles of machines used in picking differ but 
 slightly in principle and design, eacli having S'inie features pecul- 
 iar to each particular make. They are arranged, generally, in 
 sets of t\vo, three or four, the number of sets depending upon the 
 production required and the number of machines in each set; 
 upon the quality and condition of the stock being worked, very 
 dirty cotton requiring, of course, more picking and cleaning. 
 
 There are four systems into which the operation of picking 
 may be divided : 
 
 1. That in ivhich part of the machinery is on one floor and 
 part on another. 
 
 2. That in which all of the machinery is on one floor and no 
 cleaning trunk is used. 
 
 3. That in which all of the machinery is on one floor and a 
 cleaning trunk is used. 
 
 4- That in which the bales are opened in an adjoining build- 
 ing or room and the cotton is " blown " into the picker room. 
 
 The arrangement of the several machines necessary in each 
 system depends upon the location of the carding machinery; the 
 aim being to have the laps delivered from the finisher picker upon 
 the same floor, and as near the cards as possible, in order to save 
 time and expense in carrying them about and to avoid any unnec- 
 essary handling of the cotton. This, of course, cannot be done 
 always, especially in some of the old mills, but in planning a new 
 one this should be borne in mind. 
 
 SYSTEM ONE. 
 
 Fig. 1 is a plan of the opening room of a modern cotton mill 
 equipped with two sets of picking machinery, arranged on the 
 three-process system, a style in use in many mills at the present 
 time. Fig. 2 is a plan of the second floor of the same mill, and 
 Fig. 3 is a sectional elevation. 
 
 The machines on the first floor are an automatic feeder, A, 
 connected to an opener, B ; and on the second floor are a single 
 beater breaker picker, D, with a condenser and gauge-box, a single 
 beater intermediate picker, E, and a single beater finisher picker, 
 
 41 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 F. A cleaning trunk, C, connects the opener on the first floor 
 with the breaker on the second. 
 
 Beneath -the opening-room is the dust-room, into which the 
 
 o 
 O 
 
 M 
 
 O 
 
 a 
 
 08 
 
 if 
 
 
 
 dust, dirt and fine particles of cotton are discharged from the 
 picker by fans, through the galvanized iron pipes, H. These 
 pipes are provided with an automatic closing damper, K, which is 
 
 42 
 
cd 
 W 
 
 Pu, O 
 
 . 2 
 
 d 
 
 
 > s 
 
 H . 
 
 2 
 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 kept open while the picker is running by the pressure of air 
 in the pipe, but when the machine is stopped the pressure ceases, 
 and the damper closes of its own weight, assisted by the pressure 
 in the dust mom, produced by the other fans. This automatic 
 closing of the damper prevents the dust and dirt from blowing 
 back into any machine not running. 
 
 The dust-room is provided with a flue, or chimney, which 
 leads through the roof and which should have an area of about 3 
 square feet for e.ich fan. It usually occupies all of the space beneath 
 the opening-room the floor should be cemented, and the over- 
 head woodwork covered witli tin or any fireproof material. The 
 heavy dust and leaf settle to the floor, while the light dirt passes 
 out with the air. 
 
 In the systems shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, the cotton is 
 thrown into the hopper of the automatic feeder, A, and is then 
 delivered to the feed apron of the opener, B, by which it is car- 
 ried forward between the feed rolls to the beater. Most openers 
 have a three-bladed beater about 20 inches in diameter. Beneath 
 the beater is a grid, over which the dirt is driven as the cot- 
 ton is drawn through its surface and up through the cleaning 
 trunk, C, to the breaker picker, D. The starting and. stopping of 
 the feed of both opener and feeder are controlled by the breaker 
 picker. 
 
 The cleaning trunk is provided with a grid surface, over 
 which the cotton passes to the breaker picker. The dirt, which is 
 heavier than the cotton, settles between the grids into pockets 
 directly beneath, which can be cleaned out when necessary. 
 
 The cotton enters the breaker picker through a condenser 
 and gauge-box, which delivers it to 'the feed apron. It then 
 passes forward through the feed rolls to the beater, which is 
 usually three-bladed, where it receives a most thorough cleaning. 
 Passing forward over inclined grid bars, through which some of 
 the loose dirt falls, it is deposited upon two slowly revolving 
 cages or screens. From these cages it is drawn forward between 
 several calender rolls, formed into a sheet and wound upon a lap 
 roll. This is the first formation of a lap in the process. 
 
 The laps from the breaker are now taken to the intermediate 
 picker, E, to undergo another cleaning and picking. Four laps 
 
 43 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 are placed upon the apron of this machine, this being the first 
 doubling of the laps. The cotton next passes through the inter- 
 mediate and is formed into a lap in the same manner as in the 
 breaker picker. From the intermediate it passes to the third 
 
 machine, the finisher picker, F, which is substantially the same as 
 the two previously mentioned machines, the laps being doubled 
 four into one on the apron. Here the cotton is formed into a 
 
 44 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 9 
 
 finished lap, ready for the card. As before stated, both the inter- 
 mediate and finisher pickers are generally provided with eveners, 
 several styles of which will be shown. 
 
 ',^^S$^S!SJ$^ 
 
 CO 
 
 fcic 
 
 The Old Style Feeder contrasts strongly with the present 
 automatic or hopper feeder, and a description of it may be interest- 
 ing to some. In the old way the feed apron was divided off 
 
10 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 every yard or two, usually by painting some of the apron slats a 
 darker color than the rest, and the attendant would place an arm- 
 ful of cotton on a pair of scales set to some particular weight 
 and then spread the amount between the divisions on the apron. 
 The attendants were often careless, sometimes the weight of their 
 arms was included, while at other times they simply went through 
 the motions of Aveighing, not even looking to see if the scales 
 balanced or not. Frequently, when pressed for time, they would 
 take an armful from a bale and throw it on the apron, regardless 
 of the amount. It "will readily be seen that this method could 
 not be satisfactory. 
 
 The Automatic Feeder and Opener. Fig. 4 shows an auto- 
 matic feeder connected to an opener. The hopper A is kept about 
 two-thirds full, in order that the cotton shall be fed as evenly as 
 possible. The bottom of the hopper is formed by a horizontal 
 apron, B, called the bottom apron, or .lattice, by which the cotton 
 is carried forward against the elevating apron C 1 , which runs in 
 an almost vertical position, and which is supported at intervals 
 by carrier rolls, and consists of a heavy canvas belt' backed with 
 leather strips, to which are fastened wooden slats. Projecting 
 from these. slats are pins, by which the cotton is caught and car- 
 ried upwards. At the top of the elevating apron is situated the 
 spike roll D, which is about six inches in diameter and has steel 
 pins or spikes projecting about three-fourths of an inch from its 
 
 \ 
 
 surface. The object of this roll is that it should strike off any 
 surplus bunches of cotton which cling to the elevating apron, and 
 to regulate the amount of cotton carried forward to the opener. 
 Around the spike roll runs an endless leather apron, E, called the 
 spike-roll apron, which has slots or openings in it corresponding 
 in position to the pins of the roll, and through which the pins pro- 
 ject as the apron passes around the roll. Any cotton that is dis- 
 posed to collect on the pins is readily stripped off by this means. 
 The amount of cotton which is delivered to the opener is 
 regulated by the position of the spike roll, which is adjustable 
 horizontally ; thus, the greater the space between it and the elevat- 
 ing apron, the more cotton is allowed to pass. In order that the 
 spike roll shall stand parallel to the elevating apron, and that the 
 roll shall be moved parallel with it when, changing its position, 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 11 
 
 indexes are placed on the outside of either side of the hopper, by 
 which the exact position may be noted. Between the lower end 
 of the elevating apron and the end of the bottom apron is a space 
 of about I-*- inches, which allows dirt and foreign substances to 
 fall through into the hopper screen. This screen can be dropped 
 and the dirt removed. 
 
 The cotton which is left upon the pins of the elevating apron, 
 after it has passed the spike roll, is next acted upon by the doffer, 
 j\ This is driven from a countershaft by the belt, K, and is 
 about 15 inches in diameter, and has, extending across its whole 
 
 Fig. 4. Section of Automatic Feeder and Opener. 
 
 fare, four wooden blades faced with leather, which are slightly in 
 contact with the pins of the elevating apron, and, as the doffer 
 runs about 160 revolutions per minute, a continuous series of 
 blows is given, by which the cotton is stripped or beaten from the 
 pins and thrown against a screen or grid directly beneath the 
 doffer, called the doffer screen, through which any loose dirt will 
 fall. Beneath the doffer screen is a dust drawer, G, which receives 
 * lust and dirt that is beaten out by the doffer. From the doffer 
 
12 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 screen the cotton passes clown an incline on to the .feed apron of 
 the opener, H, being assisted by the current of air produced by 
 the doffer. 
 
 The cotton is next carried forward by the feed apron, pass* 
 
 48 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 13 
 
 ing under the press roll, Lj_to the feed_rolls. N. The press roll 
 condenses the cotton, th:it it may be drawn readily between the 
 feed rolls, which, being small in diameter, could not receive it in a 
 loose form. After passing the feed rolls the cotton is acted upon 
 by the blades of the rigid beater, P. This consists of three steel 
 blades running across the widtli of the machine, which are 
 securely riveted to four or five sets of arms or spiders, which are 
 fastened to the beater shaft. These blades are beveled slightly 
 
 nU*M**^i n*V<-A 
 
 Fig. 6. Section of Horizontal Cleaning Trunk. 
 
 on each edge, but not enough to cut the cotton, and as they 
 become dulled by constant use the beater can be reversed in its 
 bearings and the other edges brought into use, both ends of the 
 beater'shaft being made alike for this purpose. 
 
 The beater generally runs 1,200 revolutions per minute, there- 
 fore each inch of cotton delivered by the feed rolls receives a 
 great many blows, by which it is opened, cleaned and removed 
 from the rolls in small tufts, which are thrown with considerable 
 
 Fig. 7. Same as above, with pockets Dropped for Cleaning. 
 
 force against the beaterjrrid^ ]\L Thus the dirt, seed and heavy 
 impurities, which are struck down with the cotton, fall between 
 the bars into the space below, while the cotton, which is very 
 light, is prevented from passing through with the dirt by the cur- 
 rent of air which draws it through the trunk to the breaker and 
 which is produced by the fan in the gauge-lx)x section of the 
 breaker. 
 
 40 
 
14 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 Horizontal Cleaning Trunk. Figs. 5, 6 and 7 show details of 
 the trunk connecting the opener and breaker picker. Fig. 5 shows 
 the whole length of the grid, or cleaning surface, 40 feet being 
 usually sufficient for all but very dirty stock. The trunk i.s hung 
 from the undej>idj3j)fJJie^^ about 10 
 
 feet apart, lengthwise, and upon each side. As many of the fires 
 which occur in the picker room are caused by the beater in tha 
 opener striking some hard substance, means must be provided to 
 prevent injury to the .trunk, which, being of wood, takes fire 
 very easily ; hence ajitpjn^tic^rjrinklersLS, are placed at inter- 
 vals along the top of the trunk opening into the passage 
 through which the cotton is drawn, a very slight fire causing the 
 sprinklers to operate. At one end of the trunk is a galvanized 
 iron pipe, M, connected to a fan, X. This is for cleaning the trunk, 
 which must be done regularly. Usually the fan is connected to 
 the end of the trunk nearest the opener, as the greater portion of 
 dirt falls out of the cotton before it reaches the farthest end of the 
 grid surface ; but for convenience it i.s sometimes connected to 
 the other end, and in order to sliow the arrangement Avithout 
 obstructing the view of the opener, it is "placed in this position in 
 Figs. 1, 3 and 5. 
 
 Enlarged sections of the trunk are shown in Figs. 6 and 7. 
 The trunk is divided vertically into three sections. The top one, 
 0, through which the cotton passes to the breaker, is separated 
 from the middle one by a grid ...suifiicjv-iir- The middle section 
 consists of a series of pockets, or .compartments. A. into which the 
 dirt and leaf settle as the cotton passes slowly over the grid.^ The 
 bottom of these pockets, D, is hinged at one side, the hingo" being 
 connected to a handle, E, on the outside of the trunk, which is 
 held in a closed position by a spring, J. The lower section of 
 the trunk F is' a passage, connected to the exhaust fan L by the 
 pipe M. The bottom of the pockets opens into this passage, 
 which is closed at both ends by the doors G ami N. 
 
 When it becomes necessary to_cleaiL. 1jie_Jjmnk. which is done 
 
 from tWIL ^ fnnr t.impg ajj^LV-, the fepd. nn th" npminr JP n^aTty 
 
 stppped. The fan L, which is driven separately from the opener, 
 from a countershaft, is started, and the doors (J and N opened 
 as shown in Fig. 7, this producing a strong current of air through 
 
 50 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 15 
 
 the lower section or passage leading to the fan. TJie__sp_rings on 
 fhe outside of the trunk, which hold the bottom of "the pockets in 
 position, are pressed and release the handles and allow the bottom 
 of the pockets to_faJl_mtQ_jLJgertic.al position , a sh^w" -q-t-I^ -" 
 Fig. 7. The refuse falls into the passage and is carried along 
 by the air current and discharged into the dust room. Every 
 other pocket is usually taken at one cleaning. 
 
 Breaker Picker with Condenser and Grauye-box. When the 
 breaker picker is located at some distance from the opener 
 and is connected by a trunk, as in Figs. 1, 2 and 3. There must 
 be considerable cotton in transit between them when they are 
 in operation. As the feed of the opener is stopped, usually, 
 for a brief period while doffing the breaker, it is evident that the 
 cotton in the trunk would be drawn forward and deposited upon 
 the apron of the breaker. This would cause a thick place to be 
 formed in the first part of the next lap wound, followed immedi- 
 ately by a thin place, while the cotton is being drawn along the 
 trunk. This is, of course, for a short time only, but in order to 
 insure tlie laps being free from any irregularities in weight from 
 such cause, the receiving end of the breaker is provided with a 
 condenser and gauge-box, which is shown in the section of the 
 breaker picker in Fig. 8. 
 
 In the top of the condenser is a revolving screen, or cage,_A^ 
 on the inside of which is a stationary shiehl, or gradjg^Fl^which 
 covers a little more than one-half of its surface, the air current 
 passes through the perforations of the cage not closed by the 
 cradle. The cotton, which enters from the trunk C through 
 the top of the condenser box, is deposited upon the open side 
 of the cage. Each end of -this cage opens directly into a dust 
 passage, D (shown by dotted lines), on the outside of the gauge- 
 box. The air passes out through the ends of the cage and down 
 this dust passage to the fan E, from which it is forced out through 
 the pipe H to the dust room. 
 
 As the screen revolves slowly, the cotton which is deposited 
 upon its surface is brought around between the screen and the 
 roll F. At this point the cradle covers the screen, preventing 
 the passage of air; the cotton is thus very re.idily stripped from 
 its surface, being assisted by the roll G,. whose "surface runs in 
 
 51 
 
16 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 the opposite direction to the surface of the cage. The cotton 
 passes between the rolls, F and G, and falls upon the feed apron, J. 
 
 It will be seen that the roll, G, is held rigidly in its bearings, 
 but the roll, F, is supported at either end by a lever, G 1 , which is 
 centered at F 1 . The short end of this lever carries the roll, while 
 the long end, being heavier, keeps it pressed against the cage, sub- 
 ject to the varying thickness of the cotton passing through. 
 
 The gauge-box is divided into front and back compartments, 
 M and K, by a swinging partition, L, which regulates the amount 
 of cotton allowed to pass forward on the feed apron. The front 
 compartment, which receives the cotton as it falls from the con- 
 denser roll, is usually about half full, but with the stopping of 
 the breaker and feed of the opener, the cotton is drawn out of the 
 trunk and fills this compartment. Any surplus will fall over into 
 the back compartment, and can be removed by opening a door at 
 K 1 . With the starting of the breaker, the cotton that is contained 
 in the front compartment serves as a source of supply until the 
 cotton comes through the trunk. By narrowing the front com- 
 partment by the swinging partition, L, the feed may be made 
 lighter, as a smaller portion of the surface of the feed apron will 
 be covered. The position of the partition is regulated by a pin 
 which fits into a series of holes drilled in the under side of the 
 board, L 1 , which forms the bottom of the compartment, K. 
 
 From the feed apron the cotton is drawn between the feed 
 rolls, N 1 and N 2 , and brought into contact with the blades of the 
 rigid beater, P. This beater, which is constructed in the same 
 manner as the one previously described in the opener, runs about 
 1,500 revolutions per minute. The object of this beater is to con- 
 tinue opening and cleaning, the dirt being driven down between 
 the bars of the be'ater grid, G 2 , by the force of the blows it receives 
 from the blades of the beater. 
 
 It will now be seen that a double operation is going on, the 
 cotton being drawn along by the air draft, while the heavy im- 
 purities are being driven through the grid against the air draft 
 which enters from below and passes up between the bars. 
 
 The speed of the fan, F, which is about 1,000 revolutions per 
 minute, plays an important part in separating the dirt from the 
 cotton. If the draught is not strong enough the cotton will be 
 
 52 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 17 
 
 driven down through the grid 'with the dirt, making too much 
 waste, while if it is too strong, the dirt will be drawn along with 
 the cotton into the lap. 
 
 The beater grid consists of stationary bars, which extend 
 from side to side and around the beater for a quarter of its cir- 
 cumference. The first bar under the bottom feed roll is set 
 about | inch from the circle described by the beater blade, while 
 
 .< ::. c- E-- .;-.-. 
 
 Fig. 8. Section of Breaker Picker, with Condenser and Gauge Box Section. 
 
 the last bar is set about 1| inches away. The grid bars are sup- 
 ported by brackets, which arc adjustable, and are bolted to the 
 frame. ?The space between the bars is graduated, those nearest 
 the feed roll having the widest space between them, as the greater 
 part oiythe dirt is removed before the cotton passes to the last of 
 them. / 
 
 53 
 
18 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 The cotton is now under the influence of the fan draft, by 
 which it is dra\\rn forward over the inclined grate bars. R. and is 
 collected upon the revolving cages, C 1 and__C. The strip, N, 
 which is faced with leather, prevents it from collecting above this 
 point on the top cage. As the cotton passes over the inclined 
 grate bars, the dust and dirt which are shaken out of it settle 
 down between them into the box, T l . A dead-air sjmcejs formed 
 by every fourttLbaiLfixtending to the bottom of thejbox, Itnus pre- 
 venting the dirt from being drawn back into the cotton. The bot- 
 tom of the box is kept up in position by the lever,~"T, and the 
 weight, W, as shown by dotted lines on the outside of the picker. 
 When it is necessary to clean out the box the weight is raised, 
 allowing the bottom, which is hinged at one side, to swing down. 
 The stripping plate, J 2 , by reason of being set close to the 
 beater, p'revents the cotton from following around with the air 
 current caused by the beater. The air draft passes out at both 
 ends of the cages, through the openings, D 1 and D 2 , and down 
 the dust passage, E 1 , (represented by dotted lines), to the fan, 
 F. From this point the air is forced out through the pipe, H, 
 into the dust-room. The cages thus form a screen which assists 
 in cleaning the cotton, the fine particles of dust and lint pass- 
 ing through the perforations with the air draft. The openings, 
 D 1 and D 2 , can he closed by dampers when it is desired to throw 
 the draft all on one side of the cages, as the lap sometimes be- 
 comes thin on one edge. /The perforations, or meshes, in the top 
 cage are generally made larger than those in the bottom cage, thus 
 allowing a greater passage of air through the top cage, and conse- 
 quently a thicker sheet of cotton is formed. If the cotton is de- 
 posited equally on each cage, although formed into one sheet by 
 passing between, there is a tendency to separate, or split,&vhen 
 unrolled behind the finisher picker or card, but as the sheet from 
 the top cage forms the inside face of the lap, this trouble is in a 
 measure overcome.^ 
 
 'Another method for preventing the splitting of the laps, and 
 which is in use by some builders of machinery, is to have the top 
 cage considerably larger in diameter than the bottom one.\ By 
 this means the exposed surface of the top cage is made larger 
 and a thicker sheet of cotton is formed. When one cage is used 
 
 54 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 19 
 
 in the formation of a sheet the laps" are not as likely to split, since 
 there is only one surface upon which the cotton is deposited. 
 
 From the cages the cotton is stripped off by the stripping 
 rolls S 1 and S 2 , and drawn between the calender rolls L 2 . L 3 . 
 L 4 and L 6 t which are heavily weighted, and being slightly differ- 
 ent in diameter, thgjjices oi-the lap .are smoothed or ironedj which 
 also t-eii4a to prpypiit, them from splift.ing After leaving the 
 calender rolls the cotton passes forward under the press roll L 5 , 
 and is wound on lap roll N 3 . This lap roll is held down by fric- 
 tion and rests upon two fluted rolls, Y, called lap calender rolls, 
 which revolve and cause the lap roll to wind on the sheet of cot- 
 ton as it comes from the calender rolls. The lap is thus wound 
 very compactly and firmly. 
 
 Leaving the breaker picker, the cotton passes through the 
 intermediate and finisher pickers. The principle of these two 
 machines, so far as the opening and cleaning is concerned, is the 
 same as in the breaker picker, with the addition of an evener and 
 a long feed apron. The design is also practically the same, differ- 
 ing only in mechanical construction. 
 
 When the double-carding system was used almost wholly, not 
 so much attention was given to the weight of the picker laps, but 
 with the increasing tendency towards spinning finer yarns, and 
 the general introduction of the revolving flat card, it became neces- 
 sary to produce picker laps of a more uniform size and weight. 
 This led to the adoption of single beater pickers instead of using 
 two or three beater machines as formerly. 
 
 The first operation of doubling is placing four laps upon the 
 apron of the intermediate picker, so that the thin or light places 
 will be distributed over its surface. If the laps from the breaker 
 are unrolled and held to the light, there will be seen thick and 
 thin places, and as they are not always in the same portion of the 
 lap, by placing one lap over another we get a more even sheet, 
 hut one four times as thick. 
 
 Intermediate and Finisher Pickers. A section of an inter- 
 mediate picker is shown in Fig. 9. The laps M, B, A and G, from 
 the breaker, rest upon the feed apron D, by which they are unrolled. 
 It is advisable that they be of different diameters, so that a con- 
 tinuous sheet four laps thick may pass through the feed rolls. 
 
 55 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 If the laps are all of the same diameter, or nearly so, there is a 
 possibility of two or more running out at once, and, during the 
 time required to replace them, a break is likely to occur in the 
 continuity of the four thicknesses ; but with the laps of different 
 
 o> 
 bb 
 
 diameters, the replacement of one, which can be done very quickly, 
 makes a break in the doubled laps well-nigh impossible. The 
 laps are carried forward on the feed apron/ancfare drawn between 
 
 5G 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 21 
 
 X '' 
 
 10. Carding Beater. 
 
 the evener roll, J, and the sectional plates, E, then between the 
 
 feed rolls, N 1 and N' 2 . From this point the cotton is treated in 
 
 exactly the same manner as in the 
 
 breaker. The letters of reference are 
 
 the same on the sections of both ma- /' 1 A I \ 
 
 chines. 
 
 The cotton when taken from the ' 
 ' intermediate picker goes through the I 
 
 third process, that of the 'finisher picker.'\ 
 
 It is treated the same as in the previous 
 
 machiile, the only difference inJjie_JtsEQ 
 
 machines being the_car 
 
 generally in the finisher. 
 
 Beaters. Of the different styles of pin beaters which have 
 
 been in use from time to time, the carding beater gives the best 
 
 results. A section of this beater is 
 shown in Fig. 10. It will be seen that 
 it consists of three wooden lags, A, 
 securely fastened to the arms, C, of the 
 beater shaft. From these lags project 
 steel pins, B, arranged spirally, each 
 row being farther from the center than 
 the row preceding it. The carding and 
 beating action is combined in this beater, 
 
 Fig. 11. Two-bladed Beater, the pins penetrating the tufts of cotton, 
 
 thoroughly separating and dividing them. 
 
 In this way the cotton is deposited on the cages in a finer and more 
 
 even sheet, and the work of the card 
 
 is lessened slightly. Notwithstanding 
 
 the claim made by many to the contrary, 
 
 the carding beater is capable of remov- 
 
 \ 
 
 
 ing more dirt and leaf than the rigid 
 beater. Figs. 11 and 12 show sections 
 of two-bladed and three-bladed rigid 
 beaters. In comparing them, it will be 
 seen that the two-bladed one must be 
 run at a higher speed to get the same 
 number of blows per minute, and while 
 
 Fig. 12. Three-bladed Beater. 
 
 57 
 
22 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 some object to this necessary high speed, it is certainly cheaper 
 to construct this style. The three bladed beater is generally 
 used on openers, and the two bladed on breakers, intermediates 
 and finishers. 
 
 Some of the rigid beaters are made with the edges of the 
 blades of hardened steel, but these do not wear any better than 
 
 58 
 
Pi 
 I 
 a 
 i. 
 
 < ^ 
 
 Q - 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 23 
 
 the ordinary ones, and become dulled about as soon, and cannot 
 be sharpened without grinding, which is considerable trouble, 
 while the others can be sharpened by simply planing off the dulled 
 edges. 
 
 Picking Machinery on Different Floors. This is shown in 
 the sectional elevation of a cotton mill in Fig. 13, which 
 is very similar to the one shown previously in Fig. 3, also 
 
 Fig. 14. Section of Inclined Cleaning Trunk, with Pockets closed. 
 
 a three-beater system. The horizontal cleaning trunk is dispensed 
 with and an inclined trunk used in its place. One end of this 
 trunk is connected to an opener on the first floor, the other to a 
 one-beater breaker picker, with a screen section on the second 
 floor. The distance between the opener and the breaker is short 
 and does not require a condenser and gauge-box to receive the 
 cotton, otherwise the machinery used is exactly the same as in 
 Fig. 3. The inclined cleaning trunk is used quite extensively in 
 
 59 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 preference to the horizontal one, as the length of grid, or cleaning, 
 surface is considered by many to be sufficient for the removal of 
 nearly all of the loose dirt, and the cleaning of this style of trunk 
 can be very quickly accomplished. 
 
 Inclined Cleaning Trunk. Fig. 14 shows- a section of an 
 inclined trunk, with the pockets closed, as when the machine 
 is running. It is suspended from the floor above by rods R, 
 and consists of two parts : the top passage C, through which the 
 
 Fig. 15. Section of lucliiied Cleaning Trunk, with Pockets open. 
 
 cotton passes from the opener to the breaker ; and the pockets D, 
 which receive the dirt which falls out of the cotton. The top 
 passage is provided, in case of fire, with an automatic sprinkler, 
 S. The pockets are separated from the passage by the grid 
 surface, which consists of flat iron slats placed edgewise and 
 running across the trunk at right angles to the direction of the 
 cotton in transit. As the cotton is drawn along by the air draft, 
 eacli slat presents a narrow surface, against which it strikes, caus- 
 
 60 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 25 
 
 ing the dirt to be shaken out and to fall between them into the 
 pockets. 
 
 The bottom, E, of these pockets is made in one piece, extend- 
 ing the whole -length of the trunk, and is held up against the 
 under side of them by levers G, which are fastened at each end of 
 the bottom to a strip which runs along the under side. These 
 levers are controlled by a handle, F, the bottom forming a connec- 
 tion to the upper lever. Fig. 15 shows a trunk with the pockets 
 
 Fig. 16. Section of Breaker Picker, with Screen Section. 
 
 opened for cleaning. The handle is swung down into the position 
 shown, which draws the bottom away from the under side of the 
 pockets. The refuse slides down into a box, or basket, placed 
 beneath the lower end of the trunk. Sometimes the trunk is 
 provided with a connection, by which the dust is allowed to fall 
 directly into the dust room. 
 
 Breaker Picker with Screen Section. Fig. 16 shows a section 
 of a breaker picker. The cotton enters from the trunk C, and is 
 deposited upon two revolving screens, A and B, which form the 
 
 61 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 screen section and are simply for cleaning the cotton and form- 
 ing it into a sheet, to be fed to the beater. As the distance 
 traversed by the cotton between the opener and the breaker 
 
 be 
 
 be 
 
 
 
 is short, what little cotton there might be in the trunk would 
 not materially affect the weight of the laps by the stopping 
 of the feed of the opener while doffing the breaker, and this may 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 be entirely overcome by doffing without stopping the feed. Each 
 screen is provided with an opening, D, at each end, which leads 
 into a dust passage to the fan F, by which the dust and diit 
 are forced through the pipe H into the dust room. As the 
 screens revolve, the cotton is carried around to the stripping rolls 
 L and M, and removed by them. Passing forward between the 
 feed rolls P and R, it comes into contact with the blades of the 
 rigid beater T. From this point the cotton undergoes the same 
 treatment as in the machines previously described. 
 
 Three-storied Mill Arrangement. Fig. 17 shows a sectional 
 elevation with a three-beater system. The openers and feeders are 
 placed on the first floor and connected by a horizontal cleaning 
 trunk. The breaker is fitted with a condenser and gauge-box, 
 which provides for the long distance traversed by the cotton. 
 
 The second floor is used for opening and mixing the cotton, 
 after which it is dropped through a chute to the feeders on the 
 floor below. It will be seen that the fan for cleaning the trunk is 
 upon brackets which are fastened to the wall on the end of the 
 trunk nearest the opener, instead of the opposite end, as in the 
 first arrangement shown (Fig. 3). Sometimes only a part of 
 the second floor is used for opening and mixing, while often the 
 first floor is used for this purpose, and the second floor devoted to 
 some other process. 
 
 Another way of arranging this system is to divide the first 
 floor into sections, leaving only a small space around the feeders 
 for the cotton, the rest of the floor being used as a repair shop. 
 
 When the pipes leading to the dust room pass through the 
 rooms below, it is customary usually to bring them down near 
 the side walls or some of the columns, in order that they shall be 
 out of the way as much as possible. 
 
 SYSTEM TWO. 
 
 Fig. 18 shows an arrangement with all of the machinery on 
 one floor, as when space is limited, and the cotton is opened and 
 made into a finished lap on the same floor as the card room. With 
 this arrangement no cleaning trunk is used. The machinery con- 
 sists of a two-beater breaker with an automatic feeder, the first 
 section of the breaker corresponding to the opener, which is shown 
 
 63 
 
28 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 -i. 
 
 in the arrangement with the trunk system. The rest of the ma- 
 chinery is a single-beater intermediate picker, also with an evener 
 and a carding beater. Any of these single-beater machines can be 
 
 made with two or three 
 beaters when the nature of 
 the cotton requires a very 
 thorough cleaning and the 
 floor space is limited. 
 
 For spinning fine num- 
 bers of yarn which require 
 long staple cotton, the fib- 
 ers must be treated as care- 
 fully as possible, and as 
 the opening and cleaning 
 process is an unavoidable 
 evil, it is necessary to re- 
 duce the beaters in a sys- 
 tem to the least number 
 possible. Fig. 19 shows a 
 system which consists of an 
 automatic feeder, usually 
 provided with an evener, 
 connected to a single beater 
 breaker picker, and a 
 single-beater finisher with 
 an evener and rigid beater. 
 In all the arrange- 
 ments previously describ- 
 ed, the carding beater has 
 been recommended for the 
 finisher picker, as giving 
 the best results, but for 
 the treatment of very long 
 staple cotton, the rigid 
 beater is used in preference, as the action of the carding beater is 
 considered too harsh. 
 
 Combination Machine. When in small mills the production 
 per day is not large enough for even one complete set of machines, 
 
 be 
 
 
 
 64 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 21) 
 
 a combination breaker and finisher picker with a feeder attached 
 is used. This machine is shown in sectional elevation in Fig. 20 
 and is simply a finisher picker with a feeder connected to the end 
 of a long feed apron. 
 
 If the cotton is to undergo three processes, the number of 
 pounds required for the day's run is put through the picker and 
 allowed to fall in a loose pile in front of the calender head, and 
 then is carried to the rear end and thrown onto the feeder again 
 for the second process, when it is formed into laps. For the third 
 process the laps are doubled, three or four, on the apron and made 
 into the finished lap ready for the card-room. While this is the 
 
 Fig. 19. Section of Mill with two processes, and no Cleaning Trunk. 
 
 usual method of handling the cotton, it can be made into laps 
 after eacli process, if desired. When two processes only are re- 
 quired, the cotton should always be formed into laps the first time 
 it is run through the machine. 
 
 The combination breaker and finisher is fitted with an evener 
 specially adapted for running loose stock, and of which reference 
 will be made later. It should have also a rigid beater, as the pin 
 beater will not do when the cotton is put through three processes. 
 Sometimes this style of machine is made with two beaters, when 
 it is desired to give the cotton a very thorough cleaning and to 
 put it through twice only. The front section may then be pro- 
 vided with a pin beater and the rear with a rigid beater. 
 
 65 
 
30 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 66 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 31 
 
 SYSTEM THREE. 
 
 When the picking machinery is all upon the same floor, and 
 a trunk is used for connecting the opener and breaker, the machin- 
 ery may be arranged as in Fig. 21. The inclined cleaning trunk 
 which is used for this is connected to the condenser of the breaker 
 by a galvanized iron conveying pipe about 12 inches in diameter, 
 which extends horizontally above the finisher and intermediate 
 to the back of the breaker. In this way the loose cotton is fed to 
 the opener and returned in the form of a lap in about the same 
 part of the opening room. 
 
 Another method of arranging the machines all on one floor, 
 with a horizontal trunk, is shown in Fig. 22. The feeder and 
 opener are close to the breaker by having the trunk in two sec- 
 tions of 20 feet each, one just above the other. This saves con- 
 siderable space across the room. The trunk is cleaned in the 
 manner described in Figs. 6 and 7, one end of each section being 
 connected to the cleaning fan. 
 
 Both of these arrangements are frequently used in a one-story 
 building, but in the drawings shown the second floor is used for 
 a slasher room. 
 
 SYSTEM FOUR. 
 
 It often happens that the bales of cotton cannot be unloaded 
 near the opening room, and when this is the case an additional 
 handling is necessary, which is quite an expense, particularly in a 
 large mill. A method adopted by some of the leading manufac- 
 turers is to connect the opening room with the cotton house (where 
 the bales are unloaded) by a galvanized iron pipe 12 to 24 inches 
 in diameter and of any reasonable length. 
 
 In the cotton house is an automatic feeder which is connected 
 to one end of the pipe. The cotton is thrown into this feeder, 
 which delivers it to the pipe, through which it is drawn by a strong 
 current of air produced by an exhaust fan. This fan has a style 
 of wheel known as a wool wheel, which is ordinarily used for 
 blowing wool. The other end of the pipe is provided with a con- 
 denser, consisting of a revolving screen about 18 inches in diameter, 
 upon which the cotton is deposited. The screen is connected to 
 
32 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 H 
 
 be 
 a 
 
 be 
 
 68 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 33 
 
 69 
 
34 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 70 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 35 
 
 a fan, and being open at botli ends, the light lint and dust pass 
 through, while the cotton is removed as the screen revolves and 
 falls in a pile upon the floor. 
 
 A system of this kind is shown in Figs. 23 to 27, inclusive. 
 Fig. 23 is a plan and sectional elevation of a mill and storehouse, 
 with a galvanized iron pipe 14 inches in diameter connecting them 
 for conveying the cotton, arid Fig. 24 is a plan and elevation, on 
 a larger scale, of the automatic feeders for this system. 
 
 One end of the cotton house is partitioned off from the re- 
 mainder of the building by a brick division wall, which forms a room 
 where the bales are opened. In this room are two automatic feeders, 
 
 ELEVATION 
 OF PIPI NG 
 
 Fig. 24. Plan and Sectional Elevation of Feeders in Storehouse. 
 
 A and B, with especially large hoppers, which are driven by an 
 electric motor and which deliver the cotton to the conveying pipe, 
 C, through mouthpieces D. The fan, E, for drawing the cotton 
 through the pipe, is placed in the opener room at the top of the 
 upright pipe. 
 
 Fig. 25 is a plan and elevation showing the piping in de- 
 tail. Two condensers are used for supplying the five feeders. 
 Thus affords an opportunity for distributing the cotton in two piles, 
 so that it may be readily supplied to the feeders. 
 
 After the cotton passes through the fan, it enters an enlarged 
 part of the pipe, rectangular in section and in which is a gate, K, 
 
 71 
 
36 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 shown by dotted lines, which may be operated from the outside of 
 the pipe. From this point, the pipe divides, line, F, leading to con- 
 denser, G, and line, H, to condenser, J. If it is desired to send all 
 of the cotton through condenser, J, the gate is moved to the posi- 
 tion shown, which closes the opening in pipe, F, all of the cotton 
 passing through pipe H. But if both condensers are to be run, 
 
 Fig. 25. Plans and Sectional Elevation, showing details of piping for 
 Blowing System. 
 
 the gate is moved straightway of the pipe, leaving both branch 
 pipes open to the condensers. 
 
 The dust and dirt from the condensers are discharged into the 
 dust room through the pipe, L, by the fan, M. When only one 
 condenser is running, it is necessary to close the pipe leading to 
 the other so that the air will all be drawn from the one that is 
 running. This necessitates the wind gates, N and O. If thecon- 
 
 72 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 37 
 
 denser, J, is running, the gate, N, should be closed, while if G is 
 running, O is closed. When both are in operation, the gates 
 should both be left open, so that the air will draw equally from each, 
 but as the draft from the condenser nearest the fan is generally 
 the strongest, it is often necessary to slightly close one of the gates, 
 so that the draft from each condenser shall be equal. 
 
 When a small quantity of cotton is 
 to be run through a blowing system, in- 
 stead of having an automatic feeder as 
 in Fig. 24, the feed end of the pipe is 
 
 Fig. 26. Straight Pipe Mouth Pieces. 
 
 made as shown in Figs. 26 and 27. In Fig. 26 it is enlarged slight- 
 ly, so that the cotton may be thrown in readily. JThe pipe may 
 be inverted and the cotton drawn up instead of down which is 
 
 much better/ as it affords an op- 
 portunity for pieces of hoop iron, 
 nails etc., to drop out, while 
 with the pipe leading down, as 
 in the drawing, the heavy sub- 
 stances simply fall to the bottom 
 of the vertical part of the pipe 
 and have to be removed. Hand 
 holes are made in this part of 
 the pipe and in all parts where 
 it is necessary. 
 
 Fig. 27 shows another form 
 for the feed end of the pipe, which embodies the points of both 
 pipes previously referred to in Fig. 26. The shape of the pipe 
 permits the cotton to be dropped in and the vertical part allows 
 
 Fig. 27. Elbow Mouth Pieces. 
 
 73 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 the heavy dirt to fall to the bottom, where it can be removed. 
 
 It is considered advisable in all cases to use an automatic 
 feeder with a blowing system in the cotton house, as the lumps 
 of cotton are broken better by being tumbled about in the hop- 
 per, and the danger of fire is less from the fan striking a hard 
 substance, particularly when putting a large quantity through the 
 pipe. The production from one feeder may be called, safely, 
 8,000 pounds for a day of ten hours, without crowding the machine. 
 
 Eveners. One of the characteristics of good yarn is even- 
 ness. This is dependent upon the successful manipulation of the 
 cotton in all of the processes which it undergoes. Reference 
 has been made previously to the doubling of the laps upon the 
 aprons of the intermediate and finisher pickers. This is of great 
 importance in the process of evening, but the first stage in the for- 
 mation of the lap, which is upon the breaker picker, may be con- 
 sidered as the starting-point for this operation. While it is true 
 that a carefully made lap may be entirely spoiled by the careless 
 handling of the machines before it is spun into yarn, as is often 
 the case, the sooner we commence the operation of evening the 
 mass of cotton, the better final result will be obtained. 
 
 It is a well-known fact that when the hopper of the automatic 
 feeder is quite full, the lap is apt to be heavy, and if the cotton is 
 allowed to run low in the hopper, the lap will be found to be cor- 
 respondingly light. When an attendant is required to take care 
 of quite a number of feeders, the laps from the breaker picker vary 
 considerably in weight, owing to his inability to keep them filled 
 to near enough a uniform height. In order that the automatic 
 feeder shall deliver the same amount of cotton to the opener at all 
 times, many feeders are provided with eveners of some description. 
 
 Evener for Automatic Feeder. Fig. 28 shows a section of an 
 automatic feeder which, besides having an evening device, possesses 
 some points quite distinct from all other feeders. It consists of 
 a bottom apron r A r an elevating apron.B. supported by carrier rolls, 
 and a doffer, C. Beneath the doffer is a screen, D, and a dust 
 drawer, or box, E, while beneath the elevating apron is also a 
 screen, all of which parts are common to most feeders. Instead, 
 however, of having a spike-roll to remove the surplus bunches 
 of cotton from the elevating apron, '\lji feeder is provided with 
 
 74 . 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 a coinb x _F J , which is carried by several arms, jj. These arms are 
 fastened to the comb shaft, H, which is hung from the shaft, P, by 
 swing stands, M. The oscillations of the comb are obtained from 
 a pullejjjJ, in one arm of which is fastened a stud, T. This stud 
 is connected by a pitman, K, to a similar stud, V, in the arm, L, 
 which is fastened to the comb shaft. 
 
 Fig. '29 shows an enlarged section of a part of the feeder and 
 Fig. 30 an elevation of the same. 
 
 Fig. 28. Automatic Feeder with Evener Attached. 
 
 The device for regulating the feed is constructed in the fol- 
 lowing manner : In the back part of the hopper is a rac^_R, con- 
 structed similarly to a rake, with very long tines, which is sus- 
 pended from each side of the hopper by studs, U, which form a 
 center about which it swings. Projecting from the top of the rack 
 are stands, W, connected to the comb-shaft swing stands by arms, N. 
 By this arrangement, any swinging motion of the rack will be com- 
 
 75 
 
40 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 municated to the comb by the parts described. On the outside of 
 the hopper are springs, O, connected to the arms, S, which are 
 
 Fig. 29. Section Showing Evener Parts. 
 
 fastened to the outside ends of the studs, U, from which the rack 
 swings. The pull of the springs is such as to draw the rack 
 
 Fig. 30. Elevation Showing Evener Parts. 
 
 towards the elevating apron. When the hopper is full, or nearly so, 
 the cotton keeps the rack in an almost vertical position, but as it 
 
 76 
 
COTTON" SPINNING. 
 
 77 
 
42 
 
 COTTOX SPINNING. 
 
 gets low in the hopper, the springs draw the rack forward towards 
 the elevating apron while the comb is drawn slightly away from 
 it. By thus increasing the distance between the comb and the 
 apron (which is shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 29), more 
 cotton is allowed to pass forward to the opener, tending to keep 
 the delivery of the feed the same at all times. 
 
 Another style of automatic feeder, provided with an evener, 
 is shown in connection with an opener in Fig. 31. With this 
 feeder the supply of cotton delivered to the opener is regulated by 
 
 the speed of. the elevating 
 apron, which in turn is gov- 
 erned by the thickness of the 
 sheet of cotton passing be- 
 tween the evener rolls. As 
 the quantity of cotton in the 
 hopper grows less, the 
 amount fed to the opener is 
 lighter ; thus the speed of the 
 elevating apron and the feed 
 rolls on the opener are cor- 
 respondingly increased, so 
 that the amount of cotton de- 
 livered shall be always the 
 same. The elevating apron, 
 A, is driven by frictional con- 
 tact with the top apron roll, B, 
 
 on the end of which is a worm gear, C, which is driven from the 
 worm, D, upon the end of the eone^ E. This cone is driven from 
 the drum,. F,. by the belt, G, which passes around the carrier-rell, 
 H, and the binder_cone, J. 
 
 An end elevation of the cone is shown at the right in Fig. 31. 
 On the end of the beater shaft, and shown by dotted lines, is a 
 pulley, K^which drives the drum, F, by means of the belt, L, pulley, 
 M, and gears, N and O, the last being upon the end of the drum 
 shaft. On the top apron roll is a gear, P, which drives a similar 
 gear, R, and upon the hub of the latter is a sprocket whealr-S, which 
 drives, by means of the sprocket chain, T, the wheel, W. The feed 
 rolls, A 1 , are driven from the hub of this sprocket by the gears, C 1 . 
 
 Fig. 32. 
 
 Section Showing Evener Rolls 
 and Feed Rolls. 
 
 78 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 43 
 
 and D 1 , and the evener rolls, B 1 and B 2 , are driven by the gears, 
 C 1 and E 1 . It will be seen that by this arrangement any change 
 in the speed of thee levating apron directly affects the speed of the 
 evener and feed rolls. 
 
 Fig. 32 is a section showing the arrangement of the evener 
 rolls and feed' rolls. Fig. 33 is a view of the evener case showing 
 the rolls, levers and parts connected. 
 
 Fig. 33. Elevation Showing Evener Rolls and Levers. 
 
 The cotton passes along en the feed apron, F 1 , under the press 
 roll, G 1 , and" is drawn between tlie bottom evener rolls, B 1 , and 
 the top evener roll, B 2 , and then between the feed rolls, A 1 . The 
 bottom evener rolls, wrnBh are about 2 inches in diameter, are 
 made solid, while the top rofl> v which is driven from one of the bot- 
 tom ones by gears, H 2 and H :J V is about 3 inches in diameter 
 and is made up of a series of short rolls^eight in number,. each about 
 5 inches long and which are hollow and connected as shown in 
 Fig. 34. In the face of 
 the rolls, and near each 
 end, is a hole through 
 which is driven a steel 
 pin. These pins, A 2 , 
 are connected by dogs, 
 
 or universal joints, A 3 . In this way, rotary motion is communi- 
 cated from one to another, while a vertical movement of one or 
 more can take place, subject to the varying thickness of the cotton 
 passing between them and the bottom rolls. The whole arrange- 
 ment forms gLvery neat flexible roll. 
 
 On the.to U)f each of the short rolls (Fig. 33) rests one end of 
 a small saddle, G 2 . These saddles are connected by other saddles, 
 
 Fig. 34. Section of Flexible Evener Roll. 
 
 79 
 
44 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 H l , while a main saddle, J 1 , forms a connection between all of 
 them. On the top of the evener case is the evener lever, K 1 , 
 which is connected to the main saddle by the stem, L 1 . The ful- 
 crunmf the lever is at M 1 and the long end is connected to a rod, 
 
 Fig. 3.5 is a side elevation showing the connections between 
 the evener lever and the cone-belt guide. It will be seen that the 
 lower end of the rod, N 1 , is connected to a bell crank-lever, O 1 , 
 which turns on a stud, P l . A horizontal rod, Ri, connects the ver- 
 tical arm of this lever with the lever, S 1 . At the lower end of the 
 
 Fig. 35. Elevation Showing Connections from Evener to Cone Belt. 
 
 latter is a stud, T 1 , which forms n_-nLp,rnin aliont which the lever 
 turns and at the upper end is connected the cone-belt guide, W"i. 
 When the evener roll is raised, by reason of an unusual thickness 
 of cotton going through, the evener lever also raises and the con- 
 nections, just described, move in the direction shown by arrows. 
 This moves the cone belt towards the large end of the driven cone, 
 E (Fig. 31), -and a slower movement of the elevating apron takes 
 place, delivering less cotton to the opener. A light feed will cause 
 a reverse movement in the direction of the cone belt towards the 
 small end of the driven cone, thus increasing the speed of the 
 elevating apron. This style of evener, for regulating the feed of 
 
 80 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 cotton when in loose form, ''raw stock" as it is called, is one of 
 the most perfect in use. 
 
 Eveners for Pickers. The operations of the evener on the 
 intermediate and finisher pickers depend wholly upon the thick- 
 
 ness of the sheet of cotton which passes between two surfaces and 
 not upon the weight, as is also the case when the evener is applied 
 to the automatic feeder and, unless the cotton has been, thoroughly 
 
 81 
 
46 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 opened, the same weight in a lap may be slightly different in 
 thickness, consequently the evener is not always absolutely perfect 
 in its work. 
 
 A side elevation of a finisher picker provided with an evener 
 is shown in Fig. 36. The evener is driven from the draft gear, X, 
 on the calender head, or delivery end of the machine, by the side 
 shaft, A. On the back end of -this shaft is a drum, B, which drives 
 the evener cone, C, by means of the belt, F, which passes over the 
 carrier roll, G, and under the binder cone. H, which can be lowered 
 to take up the slack as the belt stretches. On the end of the 
 evener cone is a worm, K, which drives the worm gear, L, which is 
 connected directly to the evener and feed rolls. 
 
 Fig. 37 shows a section 
 through the evener and Fig. 
 38 shows a side elevation and 
 section of the same. 
 
 The laps are carried for- 
 ward on the feed apron, D, 
 and are drawn between the 
 evener roll, J, and the sectional, 
 plates, E, then between the 
 feed rolls, N 1 and N 2 . The 
 sectional plates, of which 
 there are sixteen, extend 
 across the whole width of the 
 face of the evener roll. Rest- 
 
 Fig. 37. 
 
 Section Showing Evener Rolls 
 and Feed Rolls. 
 
 ing in a socket on the top of each of these plates are short rods, 
 B l , which support saddles, C l . These saddles are connected to 
 the stem, D 1 , by other and larger saddles all of which act as levers, 
 the stem forming a connection between the top saddle, E 1 , and 
 the top lever, F 1 . The top lever, which has its fulcrum at G 1 , 
 is connected at its long end by a rod, H 1 , the lower end of which 
 terminates in a rack, A 1 , which is in gear with a pinion, C 4 , this 
 last being on the quadrant shaft, J 1 . On the outer end of the 
 quadrant shaft is a segment gear, K 1 , called the quadrant, the 
 teeth of which are in contact with the teeth of the cone-belt 
 guide, L 1 . 
 
 When the position of the sectional plates is changed, by reason 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 47 
 
 of a difference in thickness of the sheet of cotton passing under 
 them, the quadrant shaft is turned slightly, and -by the connections 
 jus.t described, the cone belt is moved to a different position on the 
 face of the cone, changing the speed of the evener and feed rolls. 
 This will continue until the thick or thin place, as the case may 
 be, lias passed by the sectional plates, when they will resume their 
 normal position. At the top end of the rod, H 1 , is a thumbscrew, 
 C 3 , by which the position of the cone belt maybe changed slightly 
 when adjusting the evener. 
 
 Fig. 38. Section and Side Elevation of Evener for Picker. 
 
 In order that the sectional plates shall not rise too easily, a 
 drum, or weight pulley^^G^., is fastened to the quadrant shaft. 
 Around this pulley, and fastened to it, passes a strap, B^, the lower 
 end of which is connected to a weight hook upon which hangs a 
 weight, D 2 . By this means, the sectional plates are pressed {Irmly 
 down upon the lap. 
 
 The gearing of the picker is so arranged that the feed and 
 delivery of the cotton can be started and stopped while the picker 
 is running. It will be seen that in Fig. 36 the gear, R, which is 
 upon the delivery calender roll, is driven from the pinion, S, 
 which is carried by the drop lever, M, and that the feed rolls and 
 evener rolls are driven from the draft gear, X, which is on the end 
 of the shaft, N. Both the pinion and draft gears are driven from 
 the calender pulleys on the opposite side of the calender head and 
 
 S3 
 
48 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 revolve all the time that the picker is running. The drop lever 
 turns on a stud at P. To the lower end of the lever is fastened a 
 rod, H 5 , which is connected to the lower end of the upright shaft, 
 T, by the arm, H 4 . When the feed rolls are started, the drop 
 lever is raised and the pinion, S, is brought into contact with the 
 gear, R, and at the same time, the evener and feed rolls are started 
 by means of a clutch being thrown into contact with the worm 
 gear. 
 
 An enlarged section, an elevation and a partial plan of this 
 clutch and worm gear are shown in Fig. 39. On the stud, W, is 
 a sleeve i- Li r ' with a 
 gear on one end which 
 drives the evener and 
 feed rolls and a dog, 
 or driver, L 2 , keyed to 
 the other end. The 
 clutch, K 2 , has two 
 lugs, or bosses, N, 
 which project be- 
 tween the arms of the 
 dog. The worm gear, 
 L, which runs loose 
 on the sleeve, has 
 teeth upon one side 
 which engage, 'with 
 the teeth in he 
 
 Fig. 39. Clutch and Worm Gear. 
 
 clutch. When the clutch is thrown out, the worm gear runs 
 without imparting motion to the evener and feed rolls but when 
 the calender head is started, the shipper rod, H 5 , which is drawn 
 forward by the raising of the drop lever causes the clutch to 
 engage with the teeth of the worm gear, the sleeve being driven 
 by the lugs projecting between the arms of the dog. 
 
 Another style of evener, which is applied to intermediate or 
 finisher pickers, is shown in three views, a section, an end elevation 
 and a partial plan in Fig. 40. On the end of the evenejrroll^, is 
 a wxmnjreai^rj, which is driven by a "worm, F, on the upper encTof 
 the driven cone, H. This cone is driven by a belt, J, from the 
 driving cone, L, which in turn is driven from the side shaft, It, 
 
 84 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 41) 
 
 by the gears, N amjJP. The cotton passes on the feed apron, A, 
 and between the evener roll, and the pedals, C, then between the 
 
 feed rolls, E and G. 
 These pedals, eight in 
 number, are made with 
 one end a flat surface 
 over which the cotton 
 passes, and are balanced 
 on a knife blade, K. 
 
 
 To the long end of the 
 pedals is connected a 
 series of links and sad- 
 dles, which are connect- 
 ed to a main saddle, M, 
 the whole arrangement 
 being similar to the 
 e v e n e r shown last. 
 Directly b e n e a t li the 
 main saddle is a shaft, 
 O, on one end of which 
 
 L:J 
 
 is a roll, or drum, Q, which is connected to the main saddle by 
 a thin steel band, S, and a yoke, U. One end of the band passes 
 
50 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 r* ' 
 
 partially around the drum and the other is fastened to the lower 
 end of the yoke. On the other end of the shaft is a quadrant, 
 W, which is connected to the cone-belt guide, Y, by a thin, steel 
 band, X, similar to the one connecting the main saddle. 
 
 When the position of the pedals is changed by a difference in 
 the thickness of the cotton passing between them and the evener 
 roll, the shaft, O, is rotated and the cone belt moved to a different 
 position on the face of the cones. An adjusting screw, A 1 , con- 
 nects the yoke and main saddle, by which the cone belt ma}' be 
 moved slightly when adjusting the evener for the correct weight 
 of lap. 
 
 The driven cone, H, is held rigidly in its bearings but the 
 driving cone, L, is held by arms, ( 11 and C 2 , which swing from 
 the shaft, D 1 . Fastened to the shaft is a lever, E 1 , on the end of 
 which is connected a chain, F 1 , and weight, G 1 , the chain running 
 over a pulley, H 1 . By this arrangement the cones are kept apart 
 and the cone belt tight. 
 
 Evener Cones. The question often arises as to why the out- 
 lines of the evener cones are curved instead of being a straight 
 taper. . The reason for this is very simple but, in order that it 
 shall be understood, a few words on the subject may not be amiss. 
 
 It is usually customary to double four laps on the apron of 
 the picker so that four thicknesses shall pass under the evener roll, 
 but, if one of the laps should run out, it is evident that the evener 
 roll ought to run proportionately faster in order that the same 
 weight of cotton shall be fed to the beater in a given time. 
 
 A diagram of a pair of. cones and an evener roll is shown in 
 Fig. 41. The roll, A, is 9 inches in circumference or 2| inches 
 in diameter. On the end of it is a worm gear, B, of sixty 
 teeth, which is driven by a single threaded worm, C, on the 
 upper end of the driven cone, D. The driving cone, E, runs 
 at a constant speed of 480 revolutions per minute and is driven 
 from the side shaft, H, by gears, F and G. Let us suppose that 
 four laps, each weighing 12 ounces per yard, are passing under 
 the evener roll, the speed of which is 8 revolutions per minute ; 
 now, as the i*oll is 9 inches in circumference, there would be fed 
 into the machine 72 inches, or 2 yards, of cotton weighing 48 
 ounces per yard, 9C ounces in all. With the evener roll at 8 
 
 86 
 
COTTOX SPINNING. 
 
 51 
 
 revolutions, the cone will make 480 revolutions C8 X 60 -f- 1 = 
 480) the cone belt being midway of the ends of the cone. Now 
 suppose one lap runs out, leaving only three thicknesses, or 36 
 ounces, passing into the machine, it is evident that the evener roll 
 should increase enough in speed to feed in an equal amount, weigh- 
 ing 36 ounces per yard in the same time as when that weighing 
 
 6 LAPS SPEED 3ZO 
 
 Fig. 41. Evener Cones with Correct Outline. 
 
 48 ounces per yard is going in. To accomplish this, the speed of 
 the roll must be increased to 10.66 revolutions per minute, which 
 will feed in 2.66 yards, which, weighing 36 ounces per yard, brings 
 the total to 96 ounces. To give the evener roll 10.66 revolutions 
 per minute, the driven cone would have to run 640 revolutions per 
 minute and as the driving cone runs 480 revolutions, it is easily 
 seen that the belt should move to a point on the face of the cones 
 
 87 
 
52 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 where the diameter will be such as to give 640 revolutions to the 
 driven cone. 
 
 The cones in the diagram are made with a difference in diame- 
 ter between the large and small ends to provide for a range in 
 speed adapted to pass in from two to six laps, and, as the cones 
 are 16 inches long, the difference of one lap in the thickness of 
 the sheet will move the cone belt up or down the face of the cones 
 4 inches. Therefore, with three thicknesses of lap going through, 
 the cone belt will move down the cones to the fourth position and 
 the speed of the driven cone will be 640 revolutions per minute. 
 The diameters of the cones at this point should be 5.14 inchea for 
 the driving cone and 3.86 inches for the driven cone. 
 
 The following table shows the speeds of the evener roll and 
 driven cones and the corresponding diameters of the cones neces- 
 sary for the different speeds. From the table, it will be seen that 
 the diameters of both cones, taken at the same points and added 
 together, give the same total. 
 
 
 
 
 CM *H 
 
 
 
 03 OQ 
 
 <2 *> 
 
 
 *" tH 
 
 O (U 
 
 O Q> 
 
 -*3 t- 
 JH 1> 
 
 a * 
 
 5 a> 
 
 V . 
 
 u *^ 
 
 00 
 
 
 CO " 
 
 MA 
 
 rt ^ 
 
 g 
 
 y g 
 
 S'O . 
 
 "2 .a" 
 
 C<1> 
 
 fl^i 
 
 '<l> 00 
 
 -- bC 
 S 
 
 58 
 
 M ^ 
 
 - 
 - 
 
 >0? 
 
 O C 
 
 - o 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 H O 
 
 o 
 
 .S 
 
 flfl 
 
 
 a v t> 
 
 -u O 
 
 
 d :: 
 
 A 
 
 **H ^ 
 
 
 '^ > 53 
 
 3 1 2 
 
 3 a-2 
 
 S h _2 
 
 fl 
 
 .9 3 
 
 QJ bC 
 
 _g'> 
 
 II 
 
 ill 
 
 . a 
 S'd u 
 
 III 
 
 Q3 S'S 
 
 S a =s 
 
 I.S 
 
 B 
 3 Sao 
 
 .1 
 
 K 
 
 <s o 
 
 * 
 
 3 
 
 * 
 
 05 
 
 o " ' 
 
 fc 
 
 Q 
 
 5 
 
 96 
 
 1.33 
 
 320 
 
 5.33 
 
 72 
 
 6 
 
 3.6 
 
 .5.4 
 
 96 
 
 1.60 
 
 384 
 
 6.40 
 
 60 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 96 
 
 2.00 
 
 480 
 
 8.00 
 
 48 
 
 4 
 
 4.5 
 
 4.5 
 
 96 
 
 2.66 
 
 640 
 
 10.66 
 
 36 
 
 3 
 
 5.14 
 
 3.86 
 
 96 
 
 4.00 
 
 960 
 
 16.00 
 
 24 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 Fig. 42 shows a diagram of a pair of straight taper cones which 
 serve for comparison with .those of correct outline shown in the 
 previous diagram. The large end of each is 6 inches in diameter, 
 the small end 3 inches in diameter and the middle 4 inches 
 in diameter; the speed of the driving cone is 480 revolutions 
 per minute. While the speeds of the driven cone, with two 
 and four laps going in, are 960 and 480 revolutions per minute 
 
 88 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 respectively and are correct, at all other points the diameters of the 
 cones are such as to give incorrect speeds as will be seen by com- 
 paring the two diagrams. 
 
 Friction Let-off. The friction let-off, by which the laps on the 
 picker are caused to be wound firmly, is constructed very similarly 
 by all builders. Three views, a front elevation, a side elevation 
 and a section of this device are shown in Fio-. 43. 
 
 480 REVS. 
 
 6 LAPS SPEED 240 _ 
 
 672 -3.75DIA. 4TH. 
 
 Fig. 42. Evener Cones with Incorrect Outlines. 
 
 The lap, which is wound upon the lap arbor, N 3 , is held in 
 contact with the lap roll, Y, by the racks, K and K 1 , which bear 
 upon either end of the lap roll. The top of the racks is recessed 
 to receive two rolls, A and B, which form roller bearings and 
 which greatly reduce the friction and wear upon the lap roll. The 
 lower end of the rack, K is in gear with the pinion, W, while K 1 
 
 89 
 
54 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 is in gear with the pinion, D ; both pinions are secured to the rack 
 shaft, G. The gear, R, also on the rack shaft, is connected with 
 the pinion, O, which is on the hub of the break pulley, N, by 
 the gears, S and P. These gears turri loose on the shaft, L, and 
 are held in position by the collars, F and H. The break pulley, 
 N, is free to turn on the rack shaft and is held hi position by the 
 collar, C. Loose upon the shaft, L, is the break lever, E, which 
 bears against the under side of the break pulley and is kept in con- 
 
 SIDE ELEVATION 
 
 Fig. 43. Friction Let-off. 
 
 fcact with it by the weight, M. The face of the break lever which 
 bears against the pulley is lined with leather. 
 
 As the lap increases in diameter, it draws up on the racks 
 which are kept from rising by the friction of the break lever against 
 the break pulley. When it has been wound to its full diameter, 
 the attendant presses down upon the break lever, releasing it from 
 contact with the break pulley; then the rack can be raised by 
 turning the handwheel, J, on the end of the rack shaft. 
 
 In order to bring both racks to the same height, so that the 
 lap will be wound equally in diameter on each end, the pinion, D, 
 which gears into the rack, KI, is keyed directly to the rack shaft 
 
 90 
 
Q S 
 
 W 2 
 
 < "S 
 
 i 1 
 
 s < 
 
 Crt 
 
 it 
 
 W 
 
 Z 
 
 8 I 
 
 BS 
 a 
 
 z =3 
 
 Cd _ 
 
 S B 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 55 
 
 while the pinion, W, which gears into the rack, K, is connected to 
 the rack shaft by a lug projecting between the arms of a dog, or 
 carrier, T, which is keyed to the rack shaft. In the arms of the 
 dog are adjusting screws, T 1 and T 2 , which bear against the pro- 
 jecting lug of the pinion and by turning these screws the pinion 
 can be moved a slight distance around the rack shaft in either 
 direction and the rack, K, brought exactly in line with the rack, 
 10. 
 
 On warm, damp days, the leather facing of the break lever 
 adheres closely to the break pulley and it is often necessary to 
 move the weight, M, in from the end of the break lever, thus re- 
 ducing the pressure of the lever against the break pulley. Some- 
 times it is necessary to remove the weight as too great pressure 
 tends to break the lap rolls and to wind too hard laps, which may 
 split when unrolled. 
 
 Care should be taken in oiling to avoid getting oil upon the 
 break pulley as the friction is rendered well-nigh useless and the 
 lap is consequently too soft. 
 
 Automatic Safety-stop. It is necessary that the laps, particu- 
 larly those from the finisher picker, shall be as free as possible from 
 foreign substances which, if by accident are wound into the lap, 
 cause considerable injury to the card. Most pickers are provided 
 "vvith some form of device to prevent this. Two views of an auto- 
 matic safety-stop are shown in Fig. 44, a side elevation and a 
 partial front elevation. 
 
 The calender rolls, feed rolls and cages are all driven by the 
 pinion, S, through the gear, R, which is upon one of the calender 
 rolls, consequently, by disengaging these gears, the calender rolls 
 and parts connected are stopped. This is accomplished in the fol- 
 lowing manner : The cotton, after leaving the cages, passes between 
 the top and second calender rolls, L and N. Resting on the top 
 of .the bearings, at either end of the top calender roll, is a lever, 
 F, called the top lever. The rolls, which are heavily weighted, 
 are connected to the weight by the top lever, the rod, H, and the 
 weight lever, G, upon which is the weight, J. The weight lever 
 has its fulcrum at K. Directly above a part of the weight lever 
 is the knock-off lever, A, which turns on the shaft, C, and has a 
 s-j -ew, D, near its inner end by which it is adjusted and which 
 
 91 
 
56 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 bears against a lug, projecting from the weight lever. When it is 
 in its normal position, its outer end is just clear of the under side 
 of the knock-off latch, E. This latch turns on the stud, T, and 
 has a notch, B 1 , in its upper end by which the drop lever, M, that 
 carries the pinion, S, is held in position. Should any foreign sub- 
 stance be drawn between the calender rolls, the unusual thickness 
 of the lap caused by it will lift the top calender roll, and, through 
 the connection just described, the knock-off lever will be raised 
 and its outer end brought in contact with the knock-off latch 
 
 Fig. 44. Automatic Safety Stop. 
 
 which in turn will be moved to one side, allowing the drop lever 
 to fall, disengaging the gears, R and S, and stopping the calender 
 rolls. The adjusting screw enables the picker to be set so that a 
 very slight increase of thickness in the lap will cause the picker to 
 knock off, as it will also when the evener fails to take care of 
 unusually heavy laps. 
 
 Knock-off Device. In order to get the best results, the laps 
 should be as near the same weight as possible ; not that each 
 square yard of lap must weigh the same, but the total wei^U 1 
 of each lap must be within one-half pound variation of a ion,}' 
 pound lap. In some cases, for very fine work, particularly with 
 
 92 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 57 
 
 single carding and the revolving flat card, each lap from the 
 finisher picker is weighed, and, if found to vary from the limit, 
 which has been established as a standard, is not allowed to p:iss 
 to the card-room. Sometimes every other lap is weighed and 
 often they are weighed every hour though 'in some mills it is not 
 considered necessary to weigh them more than once or twice a day. 
 
 Calculations. The weight of the lap is governed by the num- 
 ber of yards it contains and is measured by the revolutions of the 
 lap roll, the picker being stopped automatically after the required 
 number of yards has been wound. The device, by which this is 
 regulated, is called the knock-off, a diagram of the gearing of 
 which is shown in Fig. 45, which should be used in connection 
 with Fig. 44; 
 
 The knock-off, or change gear, K, is driven from the calender 
 by the side shaft, B. Loose upon the hub of this gear is a dog, 
 
 SINGLE: WORM 
 / 
 
 LAP ROLL 9"DlA 
 Fig. 45. Diagram of Knock-off Gearing. 
 
 CHANCC 
 GETAR 
 
 W, driven by a phi, V, which forms part of the gear. As the lat- 
 ter turns, the dog is brought against the upper end of the knock- 
 off latch, E, moving it out and allowing the drop lever, M, to fall, 
 disengaging the pinion, S, and the gear, R, and, as the .dog assumes 
 a vertical position, by reason of being loose on the hub of the 
 gear, the picker can be started immediately after it has knocked 
 off and the lap has been removed. The knock-off gear makes one 
 revolution for each lap wound, so a change in the number of teeth 
 it, contains gives a different number of yards in a lap. 
 
 When the weight per yard and the total weight of the lap 
 
 93 
 
58 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 have been established, the constant number or factor, by which 
 the number of teeth in the knock-off gear is calculated, can be 
 figured. The lap rolls are 9 inches in diameter, or 28.27 inches in 
 circumference, therefore 1.27 revolutions will be required to wind 
 one yard, thus : 36 -4- 28.27 = 1.27. 
 
 On the end of the lap roll is a gear of 37 teeth which is driven 
 from a pinion of 18 teeth. Compounded with the pinion is a gear 
 of 73 teeth, which is driven from the calender shaft by a pinion 
 of 14 teeth. On the right end of the calender shaft is a pinion, 
 S, of 13 teeth which, drives the gear, R, of 80 teeth. On the hub 
 of the latter is a single-threaded worm which drives a gear of 35 
 teeth which is upon the side shaft. On the opposite end of the 
 side shaft is a pinion of 18 teeth, which drives the knock-off, K, 
 through the intermediate gear of 30 teeth. 
 
 Following are the rules governing the calculations for tks 
 picker : 
 
 Rule 1. To find the factor for the knock-off gear, multiply 
 the drivers together and divide the product by the product of the 
 driven gears multiplied by the number of revolutions of the lap 
 roll necessary to wind one yard, leaving out all intermediate gears 
 and the knock-off gear. 
 
 35.X 80X14X18 87Q 
 
 Example : = .879 
 
 18 X 1 X 13 X 73 X 37 X 1.27 
 
 Rule 2. . To find the number of yards in a lap, multiply the 
 factor by the number of teeth in the knock-off gear, 30. 
 
 Example: .879 X 30 = 26.37 
 
 Rule 3. To find the number of yards in a lap, without using 
 the factor, multiply the number of teeth in the knock-off gear by 
 the product of the drivers, and divide that product by the product 
 of the driven gears multiplied by the number of revolutions of the 
 lap roll necessary to wind one yard, leaving out all intermediate 
 gears. 
 
 W 30 X 35 X 80 X 14 X 18 
 
 Exam P le: 18 X 1 X 13 X 73 X 37 X 1.27 : 
 
 Rule 4. To find the number of teeth in the knock-off gear, 
 divide the number of yards in the lap by the factor. 
 Example : 26.37 -f- .879 = 30 
 
 94 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 59 
 
 The weight of the laps from the finisher picker depends upon 
 the production required, the counts of yarn it is desired to make 
 and the class of cotton used. It will run from 10 to 16 ounces 
 per yard. T/he laps on the apron of the finisher picker will aver- 
 age about 15 ounces per yard, and as there are four laps on the 
 apron at one time, the combined weight of the laps entering 
 the finisher is 60 ounces per yard, and as the weight of the lap 
 from the finisher is between 10 and 16 ounces per yard, it is 
 evident that some means must be employed to reduce this weight 
 to that required. This is accomplished by introducing a certain 
 amount of draft between the feed rolls and the lap rolls. By the 
 word draft, as applied to cotton machinery, is meant the ratio of 
 the length of lap passing the lap rolls in a given time, to the length 
 of lap which passes the feed rolls in the same time. If the circum- 
 ferential velocity of the feed rolls is 25 feet per minute, while in 
 the same time the velocity of the lap roll is one hundred feet or 
 four times as much, there is a draft of four. It follows if the com- 
 bined weight entering the feed rolls is 60 ounces per yard, the 
 weight delivered will be one-fourth as much, or 15 cunces per 
 yard. 
 
 To make this clear to those not familiar with the subject, we 
 will call the weight of each of the laps on the apron of the finisher 
 16 ounces per yard and that of ihe lap delivered by the finisher 
 15 ounces per yard. The draft will be found in the following way : 
 
 Rule 5. To find the draft of the finisher, multiply the num- 
 ber of laps on the apron by the weight per yard and divide the 
 product by the weight of the lap being- delivered. 
 
 Example : = 4.2 
 
 15 
 
 Rule 6. To find the weight of lap being delivered, draft 
 being known, multiply the number of laps on the apron by the 
 weight per yard and divide the product by the draft. 
 
 4 X 16 
 
 Example : = 15. 
 
 4.2 
 
 After the draft has been calculated, which in this case we 
 have found to be 4.2, the draft factor, or constant number, must 
 
 95 
 
60 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 be found by which the number of teeth in the draft gear may be 
 determined. A diagram of the gearing of a finisher picker is 
 snown in Fig. 46. 
 
 Pi 
 
 it 
 
 The feed roll is 2 inches in diameter and has upon the end 
 a spur gear of 12 teeth, which is driven from the evener roll by a 
 gear of 16 teeth. Compounded with this gear is one of 28 teeth, 
 
 96 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 61 
 
 which is driven from the apron roll by a gear of 20 teeth. On 
 the outer end of the apron roll is a worm gear of 85 teeth that is 
 driven by a single-threaded worm which is upon one end of the 
 evener cone. The diameter of the evener cone is taken at a point 
 midway of the ends and is 3^ inches. The cone is driven from a 
 10-inch diameter drum on the side shaft. On the front end of the 
 side shaft is a bevel gear of 54 teeth, driven from a similar gear of 
 40 teeth compounded with a spur gear of 30 teeth, which is driven 
 from the draft gear, E, (on the end of the driving shaft) through 
 an intermediate gear of 60 teeth. On the other end of the driving 
 shaft is a pinion of 14 teeth, which drives the lap rolls through 
 gears of 76, 14, 73, 18 and 37 teeth. The last gear is upon the 
 lap rolls which are nine inches in diameter. 
 
 Rule 7. To find the constant number, or factor, of the picker, 
 multiply the diameter of the lap roll by the drivers and divide the 
 product by the product of the diameter of the feed roll multiplied 
 by the driven gears, leaving out all intermediate gears and the 
 draft gear. 
 . Example : 
 
 9 X 18 X 14 X 14 X 30 X 54 X 3} X 85 X 28 X 12 
 
 __ ^ 
 
 2| X 37 X 73 X 76 X 40 X 10 X 1 X 20 X 16 
 
 Rule 8. To find the number of teeth in the draft gear, divide 
 the draft factor by the draft, 42. 
 
 Example : 85.51 -4- 4.2 = 20 
 
 Rule 9. To find the draft, when the number of teeth in the 
 draft gear is known, divide the draft factor by the number of teeth 
 in the draft gear, 20. 
 
 Example : 85.51 -~ 20 = 4.2 
 
 Rule 10. To find the draft, without first finding the factor, 
 multiply the diameter of the lap roll by the drivers and divide the 
 product by the product of the diameter of the feed roll multiplied 
 by the driven gears and the draft gear, leaving out the inter- 
 mediate gears. 
 
 Example : 
 
 9 X 18 X 14 X 14 X 30 X 54 X 3* X 85 X 28 X 12 _ 1 2 
 2* X 37 X 73 x 76 X 20 X 40 X 10 X 1 X 20 X 16 ~ 
 
 97 
 
62 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 Rule 11. To find the speed of the beater, multiply the speed 
 of the countershaft by the diameter of the pulley, A, (24 inches) 
 and divide the product by the diameter of the beater pulley, B, (8 
 inches) . 
 
 ^ 500 X 24 1CA/ 
 
 Example: - = 1500. 
 
 8 
 
 Rule 12. To find the speed of the fan, multiply the speed of 
 the beater by the diameter of the pulley, C, (5 inches) and divide 
 the product by the diameter of the pulley, D, (8 inches). 
 
 Example: 150 X 5 = 937.5 
 
 Rule 1 3. To find the factor for the production of the picker, 
 multiply together the number of revolutions of the beater shaft, 
 the circumference of the lap roll and the drivers and divide the 
 product by the product of the diameter of the pulley on the calen- 
 der head (24 inches) multiplied by the driven gears and 36 (num- 
 ber of inches in a yard). 
 
 1500 X 28.27 X 14 X 14 X 18 
 
 Example: - = .8435 
 
 24 X 76 X 73 X 37 X 36 
 
 Rule 14. To find the production of the picker, multiply the 
 factor, the diameter of the feed pulley, F, (4| inches) the minutes 
 run per day (600) and the weight of the lap per yard (15 ounces) 
 together and divide the product by ounces per pound. 
 
 .8435 X 4J X 600 X 15 
 Example: ? == 2135.10 Ibs. 
 
 98 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 PART II. 
 
 CARDING. 
 
 After the cotton has passed through the opening and clean- 
 ing process, there still remains a considerable amount of leaf, 
 sand, particles of seed and small clusters of unripe fibers which 
 must be removed before it can be spun properly into yarn. If we 
 examine carefully a lap from the finisher picker, we shall see that 
 in addition to these impurities, the fibers lie in different direc- 
 tions in small tangled tufts of unequal thickness and density, 
 also that it is necessary to comb or card them to disentangle, 
 straighten and clean them. 
 
 Arrangement of Card Room. The cotton card, like all other 
 machines used in cotton spinning, has grown from a very primitive 
 form. At the present ,time, the revolving flat card is used almost 
 exclusively. Before entering upon a description of the card, some 
 attention should be given to the placing of the machinery in the 
 card room. An arrangement adopted in many mills is shown in 
 plan in Fig. 47 and in sectional elevation in Fig. 48. 
 
 The cards are placed in rows, extending lengthwise of the 
 mill, six to seven feet on centers except where a line comes 
 between columns. The alleys should be about four feet wide if 
 space will permit. This allows a lap truck to pass down the 
 alley, clear of the machines, a point which should be considered, 
 as laps are frequently torn by coming in contact with the machin- 
 ery. The cards in two adjoining lines should be placed with the 
 coilers towards each other, except when the width of the mill is 
 such as to cause an odd number of rows, us shown in the draw- 
 ings. In that case the odd row, is placed, usually, in the center of 
 the room. 
 
 The shafting for driving the cards should be placed over the 
 front or coiler alley, so that the driving belt will not interfere 
 with the application of the flat grinder which is attached at the 
 
 101 
 
64 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 back on most cards. In no case should the shafting be placed 
 over the cards, as oil is very apt to work out of the hanger boxes 
 and drop on to the clothing of the flats and destroy it completely. 
 The cards should be so arranged that each is driven from a 
 separate pulley. 'This is more necessary than it seems at first 
 
 thought. If the cards are not erected exactly parallelly with the 
 shaft, the driving belt may run to one side of the face of the 
 pulley and to overcome this the pulley is moved slightly along 
 the shaft. If two cards were driven from the same pulley, this 
 could not be done. With the old-fashioned top flat cards it was 
 
 102 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 65 
 
 customary to drive two from the same pulley, the pulley having a 
 flange in the center of the face, which formed a division between 
 the two belts. If the cards were not set parallelly with the shaft, 
 
 iSSSSS?^^!::^^^^^ 
 
 eS 
 
 6 
 
 QO 
 i* 
 
 bo 
 
 the belt would run to one side. To remedy this, the cards, instead 
 of the pulleys, were moved enough to cause the belt to run true, but 
 
 103 
 
66 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 bfl 
 
 p 
 
 > 
 
 "3 
 
 > 
 
 0) 
 
 K 
 
 be 
 
 E 
 
 104 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 67 
 
 with the revolving flat cards, it is not considered advisable to move 
 them, as the settings are easily disturbed. 
 
 Theory of Carding. In the sectional elevation shown in 
 Fig. 49, the lap, A, from the finisher picker, is placed in the lap 
 stands and rests upon the lap roll, B, by which it is revolved 
 slowly, the surface speed of the lap roll being just sufficient to 
 unwind the lap at the same speed that it is received by the feed 
 roll. It then passes forward on the feed plate, C, and under the 
 feed roll, E. As the fibers pass up over the curved part or nose 
 of the feed plate, they come in contact with the teeth of the 
 leader or licker-in, G, which is about 9i inches in diameter and is 
 covered with steel teeth, inserted in its surface, which resemble 
 the teeth of a saw. The action of the leader is twofold ; that of 
 removing dirt and that of combing and straightening the fibers. 
 When the teeth of the leader (the surface speed of which is about 
 1,050 revolutions per minute) strike the fibers, the force of the 
 blow strikes down and partially removes the dirt. The fibers, 
 which have now advanced far enough beyond the bite of the feed 
 roll, are removed and carried by the leader, while those which are 
 held by the feed roll are combed and straightened. The fibers 
 thus receive a very effectual cleaning, more dirt being removed at 
 this point than in any part of the card. As they are carried 
 around by the leader, the fibers are drawn over the top edge of 
 the mote knife, D, which also aids in cleaning. Directly under 
 the leader is a screen or grid, F, called the leader screen. The 
 part of the screen with which the fibers come in contact first con- 
 sists of a series of bars, running across from side to side of the 
 card; the rest of the screen, fcom the last bar to a point where it 
 is hinged to the cylinder screen, is perforated with small holes. 
 The object of this screen is to prevent the cotton from leaving the 
 leader, and to allow foreign substances, which, being heavier, are 
 thrown out by centrifugal force, to drop through these perfora- 
 tions. 
 
 The fibers, which have been brought around by the leader, 
 are now taken up by the cylinder, H; the surface velocity of 
 which is a little more than twice that of the leader. The wire 
 teeth (card clothing) of the cylinder are much finer than those of 
 the leader, and as both surfaces run in the same direction, the 
 
 105 
 
68 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 fibers are readily stripped from the teeth of the leader and are 
 carried forward under the flats, B 5 , to the doffer, L. The flats are 
 faced with card clothing, similar to that of the cylinder, and 
 embrace a little more than one- third of its circumference and 
 travel slowly in the same direction as the cylinder. As the fibers 
 are carried under each successive flat, they become more thor- 
 oughly cleaned and straightened. The speed of the cylinder 
 plays an important part in this operation. If the fibers are short, 
 they will be removed by the flats, but if sufficiently long, they will 
 hold to the cylinder and be combed by them. The fibers are now 
 transferred to the doffer. Just how this is done may be perplex- 
 ing to many, but if we stop to consider a moment, it will be found 
 very simple. Although the surfaces of the cylinder and doffer 
 run in the same direction, the clothing of each stands at a differ- 
 ent angle, the doffer clothing presenting a series of hooks upon 
 which the fibers are caught and drawn from the cylinder. If we 
 examine the cylinder closely, we will see that many of the fibers 
 stand out from its surface, not in straight lines parallel with the 
 circumference, but in a loosely tangled mass which is effected 
 partly by centrifugal force but more by the naturally irregular 
 disposition of the cotton, and, as most of the fibers are carried 
 around by the cylinder a great many times before they are trans- 
 ferred to the doffer, their repeated passing beneath the flats 
 changes their position and finally results in their withdrawal 
 from the cylinder. Then, too, the fibers cross and recross each 
 other, so the withdrawal of one or more easily affects the others. 
 
 Beneath the cylinder is the cylinder screen, K, which extends 
 from the leader screen almost to the doffer and which is made in 
 two parts, hinged in about the center. For the greater part of 
 the length, each half consists of a series of bars, running from side 
 to side. If no screen is used under the cylinder, its high surface 
 velocity (about 2,150 feet per minute) will cause the fibers to 
 stand out and finally become detached but with a screen, this can- 
 not happen while the heavier impurities, thrown out by centrifu- 
 gal force, fall between the bars. 
 
 The doffer, which is 24| inches in diameter outside of the 
 wire clothing, runs at a very slow speed, not over twenty revo- 
 lutions per minute at the most. Consequently the fibers are 
 
 106 
 
'Si 
 1/3 
 
 I fl 
 
 51 
 
 S B 
 
COTTOX SPINNING. 
 
 69 
 
 FEED ROLL 
 
 it is condensed 
 a soft, rope-like 
 
 Fig. 50. Feed Plate for short staple cotton. 
 
 deposited on its surface in a more condensed form tlia:i on the 
 cylinder and they are carried around and combed off by the 
 doffer comb, N, which draws them from the points of the teeth, 
 and, as they ,lie very loosely upon the surface of the doffer, they 
 are detached easily. 
 
 The fleece, or web, 
 is now passed between 
 the calender rolls,M, by 
 which 
 into 
 
 mass, called sliver. 
 From here it is drawn 
 upwards and enters the 
 coiler, R, where it is 
 coiled very compactly into the can, S. 
 
 Feed Plates. The operation of carding having been consid- 
 ered in general, the details of the card will now be described, 
 starting with the feed plate. 
 
 Figs. 50, 51, 52 and 53 show sections of different feed 
 plates, which provide for the various lengths of fibers, so that they 
 miy be coaibed without injury to the staple. Fig. 50 shows a 
 feed plate used for short staple and waste cotton. The distance 
 from the bite of the feed 
 roll to the lower edge, or 
 point where the teeth of 
 the leader are nearest 
 to the face, is quite 
 short. The next plate, 
 Fi;r. 51, is for medium 
 
 o 
 
 length staple and the 
 
 distance from the bite 
 
 of the feed roll to the 
 
 lower edge of the face of 
 
 the feed plate is considerably greater than in Fig. 50, and the nose 
 
 much sharper. Fig. 52 is for long staple Egyptian cotton. It 
 
 will be seen that the distance from the bite of the feed roll to the 
 
 lower edge of the plate is greater than in either of the others and 
 
 the nose is still more pointed. 
 
 FEED ROLL 
 
 Fig. 51. Feed Plate for medium staple cotton- 
 
 107 
 
70 
 
 COTTOX SPINNING. 
 
 FEED ROLL 
 
 Fig. 52. Feed Plate for Egyptian Cotton. 
 
 The last plate, shown iu Fig. 53, is for Sea Island cotton. 
 In this style, the length of the face is greater than on the plates 
 used for all other varieties of cotton. The exact size and outline 
 of the no.se and face of the plates are shown at the right hand of 
 
 the drawing in all four 
 views; the distance between 
 the bite of the feed roll and 
 the lower edge of the plate 
 is indicated by dotted lines. 
 in all cases, this distance 
 should be slightly more 
 (from |- to -| of an inch) 
 than the average length of 
 staple being worked, other- 
 wise, the fibers will be 
 broken by the leader teeth trying to take them away before they 
 are liberated from the bite of the feed roll. The angle of the face 
 of the feed plate should be such as to cause the teeth of the leader 
 to comb the fibers for about two-thirds their length before they 
 become detached. 
 
 In Fig. 54 is shown 
 a section of an adjust- 
 able feed plate, intended 
 to provide for different 
 lengths of fibers. This 
 plate consists of two 
 parts ; a top piece, A , 
 which is movable and 
 is adjusted by the screw, 
 C, and a base piece, B, 
 which is fastened to the 
 side of the card. Strips 
 of wood, D, of different 
 
 thicknesses, are used to fill the space between the pieces. This plate 
 possesses no merits, not giving good results when put into use. 
 
 Fig. 55 shows the method used for feeding the card before 
 the feed plate became generally adopted. It may be found still 
 on the old style of stationary top cards. Instead of a single feed 
 
 FEED ROLL 
 
 Fig. 53. Feed Plate for Sea Island Cotton. 
 
 108 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 71 
 
 
 roll, two rolls were used which were about 1| inches in diameter. 
 The cotton was carried forward between them to' the leader, or 
 cylinder, many of the older cards having no leader. The distance 
 from the bite., of the feed rolls to the point of contact with the 
 
 leader (indicated by 
 radial lines A and B) 
 was about 1| inches, 
 and, unless the h' b e r s 
 were at least 1] inches 
 long, they became de- 
 tached from the bite of 
 the rolls before they had 
 received any combing 
 
 Fig. 54. Adjustable Feed Plate. 
 
 FEED ROLL 
 
 and the cotton was de- 
 livered to the cylinder 
 in small tufts. . To 
 
 remedy this, the rolls were made small in diameter but this 
 
 introduced another evil ; the rolls would spring apart in the 
 
 center and cause the lap to be fed very unevenly. 
 
 The half-tone in Fig. 50 shows two sections of laps taken 
 
 from cards. The one marked A was from a card provided with a 
 
 feed plate while B was 
 
 taken from an old 
 
 style card with two 
 
 feed rolls. The point, 
 
 where the fibers were 
 
 liberated, is indicated 
 
 by a horizontal line 
 
 and it will be seen 
 
 that in section A, they 
 
 were combed and 
 
 cleaned for a much greater portion of their length than were 
 
 those in section B which received very little combing, before being 
 
 taken away by the leader. The fibers are always more or less 
 
 broken by this method. 
 
 Leader, Cylinder and Flats. A section of the leader, the 
 
 cylinder and the parts connected and a section of a flat in relation 
 
 to the cylinder are shown in Fig. 57. 
 
 Feed Rolls lor old style cards. 
 
 109 
 
72 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 The mote knife, D, is adjusted in either direction, horizontally 
 by moving the bracket^ D 1 , by which it is attached to the leader 
 shroud, and vertically by the screw, D 2 . The correct distance 
 from the teeth of the leader may be obtained in this way very 
 easily, and as the leader shroud moves with the leader shaft when 
 the position of the leader is changed, the mote knife moves with 
 it, avoiding the necessity of resetting; Over the leader is a steel 
 
 Fig. 56. Section of card sliver. 
 
 bonnet, J, called the leader bonnet. At the point where this cover 
 and the back plate, T, come together is placed a round iron rod, P, 
 covered with flannel, which serves as a fill-up piece, preventing 
 the dust and short fibers from blowing out. Resting upon the 
 feed roll and between it and the leader bonnet is another rod, P, 
 similar to the one just described. At this point, the rod performs 
 double duty, keeping the dust from blowing out and also acting 
 as a clearer for the feed roll. 
 
 In the section of the flat and the cylinder, it will be seen that 
 the space between the wires of each is greater at the toe, or point, 
 where the cotton enters than at the heel where it leaves. By 
 inclining the flat in this manner, the fibers receive combing from 
 
 no 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 73 
 
 the greater portion of its wires, and, as they stand out slightly 
 from the surface of the cylinder by -being drawn into a small 
 space, are more easily dealt with than they would be if the flat 
 were brought, close at the toe. 
 
 Cylinder Doffer and Flats. In Fig. 58 is shown a partial 
 section through the cylinder, doffer and parts directly connected. 
 The flats, B 3 , pass around the front block, W 1 , in the direction 
 shown by the arrow and the short fibers, or strippings, which 
 
 Fig. 67. Section of cylinder, leader and flat. 
 
 adhere to them, are removed by the stripping comb, W 2 . Passing 
 along toward the rear of the card, they are cleaned by a revolving 
 brush, W 3 , called the stripping brush which is itself cleaned by a 
 stationary comb, W 4 , called the stripping brush comb. Directly 
 beneath the stripping comb is the strip roll, W 5 . This is a 
 wooden roll about li inches in diameter, covered with flannel and 
 supported at either end by arms, W 6 . As the flats pass around 
 the front block, the strippings, which are removed by the comb, 
 
 111 
 
74 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 are wound upon the roll which revolves by being held lightly in 
 contact with the flats. 
 
 It was the custom, formerly, to allow the strippings to drop 
 upon the doffer cover in a loose mass and, when an amount had 
 collected, it was removed. With the strip roll the strippings are 
 wound in a neat and very compact form and can be removed very 
 
 Fig. 68. Section of cylinder and doffer. 
 
 quickly, and by reason of the compactness, the removal does not 
 have to be performed so often. 
 
 When it is necessary to grind, or strip, the cylinder, the door, 
 W 7 , which is hinged to the front plate, can be turned down as 
 shown by dotted lines. Over the doffer is a cover, L 1 , called the 
 doffer bonnet, which is fastened to the doffer shroud, L 2 , which, 
 in turn, is fastened to the doffer bearing, L 3 . 
 
 The main cylinder is made 50" in diameter by 40" or 45" face. 
 
 112 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 75 
 
 The doffer is made 24", 27" or 28" in diameter and 40" or 
 45" face. The clothing adds. ^" to the diameter. The flats are 
 1|" wide and there are 104 or 110 in a chain. With 104, there 
 are 39 at work arid with 110, there are 44 at work. 
 
 Settings. A few words may be said now in regard to the 
 settings of the various parts of the card, a detail which is very 
 often slighted .and the quality of the work suffers. 
 
 The construction of the revolving flat card is such as to 
 require -very fine adjustment and too much attention cannot be 
 given to grinding, setting, stripping and cleaning, as the results of 
 poor carding cannot be rectified in any of the subsequent processes. 
 Very close setting, with the card freshly ground, will produce 
 extra good work but the wires will become dull much quicker 
 than with more open settings, which are productive of good aver- 
 age carding from one grinding to the next. 
 
 Gauges. For setting the doffer, leader, feed plate, screens 
 and back and front plates, most machinery builders supply a four- 
 leaf gauge of the following sizes: ^o/, ^co"' i%" and iiJ/ 
 thickness. For setting the tops, three gauges with- detachable 
 handles are used; these are I-QQ-Q", ^V' and ikon" * n thickness. 
 
 To understand fully the setting points, reference 'should be 
 made to Figs. 49, 57 and 58. The settings given, although liable 
 to slight changes under different conditions, are recommended. 
 
 Cylinder Screen. For setting the cylinder screen, openings 
 are provided in the sides of the screen for inserting the gauge. 
 The front part, or nose, of the screen is adjusted by the rod, K 3 , 
 while at the back, where it joins the leader screen, the vertical 
 adjustment is obtained by the rod, K 1 , and the lateral movement 
 is governed by the rod, K 2 . The center of the screen is adjusted 
 by the lever, K 4 , which turns upon a stud, K J . One end of the 
 lever is connected to the screen by a pin, K*, the other end is 
 tapped to receive an adjusting screw, K 6 , which is held between 
 the projecting lugs of a stand, K 7 . 
 
 The usual setting of the screen, from the cylinder wire, at the 
 back and center, is about ^OT" (four gauges, 5, 7, 10 and 12). 
 At the front, or doffer end, it is set from " to " from the cylin- 
 der wire. The setting of the front half of the screen controls the 
 side waste and droppings under the doffer. By setting it away 
 
 113 
 
76 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 from the cylinder, it allows the fibers to be drawn gradually be- 
 tween the screen and cylinder. If set too close, a great amount of 
 waste is made as the fibers are thrown off the cylinder. 
 
 Sack Plate. The back plate, T, which extends from the 
 leader to the flats, is set, at its lower edge, about ^fa" (two 
 gauges, 5 and 10) from the cylinder ' wire. At the upper edge, 
 the best results are obtained by setting it about ^ fa" (four 
 gauges) from the cylinder wire. This allows the fibers to free 
 themselves and stand out a little from the cylinder before they 
 meet the flats. 
 
 Leader and Leader Screen. The leader is set to the cylinder 
 with a ^fa" gauge. The leader screen is set to the leader, at 
 the point where it is hinged to the cylinder screen, with a jo-f-g-" 
 gauge. The nose of the screen, with which the fibers first come 
 in contact, is set away from the x leader wires from -^f-g-" to 
 1 ^oo* r . This depends upon the condition of the cotton and the 
 amount of fly it is desired to remove. By so setting the screen, 
 the fibers are drawn gradually into a more compact space, as they 
 pass around on the leader, and present a more even sheet to the 
 teeth of the cylinder. When it is desired to use the cotton for a 
 very fine grade of work, it. is best to remove as much fly as possi- 
 ble, at this point, rather than let it fall out between the rolls of 
 the drawing frame or during other processes. This may be accom- 
 plished by setting the nose of the screen close to the leader, but 
 not too close, as it is possible to remove much good cotton. Cor- 
 rect setting depends upon the judgment of the carder. The screen 
 may be adjusted by the rod, F 1 , the lower end of which passes 
 through a bracket fastened to the card side. 
 
 Mote Knife. The mote knife is set from the leader with a 
 ^10.^" gauge, and care should be taken that it is set exactly paral- 
 lel with the leader. The percentage of waste may be increased 
 by changing the height of the knife which is adjusted by the 
 screw, D 2 . 
 
 Feed Plate. For setting the feed plate from the leader, the 
 gauge used depends somewhat upon the weight of the lap being 
 carded. For a lap weighing 12 ounces per yard or under, a ^-J-jj-ff" 
 gauge is generally used, while for laps above 12 ounces per yard, 
 the setting is sometimes as great as l ^l^" (two gauges). 
 
 114 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 77 
 
 Stripping Plate. Extending from the doffer to the flats is a 
 polished steel cover, W, called the front or stripping plate. Upon 
 the correct setting of this plate, depends the removal of the strip- 
 pings from the flats. Usually, it is set, at its lower edge, about 
 itffV fr ra the cylinder and about j $/' at the top edge. If set 
 too close at the top edge, the strippings will be removed from the 
 flats by the cylinder when they reach the edge of the plate, and, on 
 the other hand, if set away at the top, the fibers will cling to the 
 flats and be combed off when they reach the stripping comb. 
 
 Doffer. The doffer is set J-J/OT" from the cylinder, close 
 enough for any class of work. 
 
 Doffer Comb. For setting the doffer comb, the ^fa" S au o e 
 should be used, although with a very light sliver, a l -$--" gauge 
 may be used. 
 
 Stripping Comb. The stripping comb should be set to the 
 flats with a j^f Q"" gauge. 
 
 Flats. In setting the flats, it is necessary to remove five at 
 certain intervals in the chain, so that the gauge may be admitted 
 at points nearly under the sprocket stand, back block, center block, 
 quarter block and grinder bracket. The spacing varies, depend- 
 ing upon the number of flats in the chain and the make of the 
 card. 
 
 The flats should not be set closer than j^^-" to the cylinder, 
 and as the setting necessitates a thorough understanding of the 
 principles and construction of the flexible bend, it should be con- 
 sidered in reference to it. 
 
 Gearing. The method of driving the various parts of the 
 card will now be considered and illustrated by Fig. 59, an eleva- 
 tion of the right-hand side of a left-hand card, and Fig. 60, an 
 elevation showing the left-hand side. 
 
 To determine the hand of a card, the custom, followed by all 
 cotton machinery builders in this country, is to face the machine 
 at the delivery, or doffer, end and whichever side the driving pul- 
 ley is upon decides the question. Fig. 61 shows a right-hand 
 card. Upon the leader is a pulley, B, driven from a large pulley, 
 D 3 , which is upon the cylinder shaft, by the crossed belt, E. The 
 doffer comb is driven from the groove in this pulley by the band, 
 D 1 , which passes to a double grooved carrier pulley, C 1 , from 
 
 115 
 
78 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 which passes another band, E 1 , to the comb pulley, II, also double 
 grooved. 
 
 The flats, B 3 , which pass slowly over the cylinder in tlie 
 direction indicated by an arrow, are driven from a sprocket wheel 
 
 1 it. 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 79 
 
 which is fastened to the inside of the front block, "W 1 . Motion 
 is communicated to the latter from the small pulley, C, which is 
 
 r; 
 C 
 
 upon the cylinder shaft, by the belt, H 1 , the pulley, A 3 , the 
 worm, J, the worm gear, F 1 , the worm, L 1 , and the worm gear 
 
 117 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 A 1 , which is upon the front block shaft. The usual speed of the 
 flats is about three inches per minute. 
 
 The stripping brush is driven from a groove on the inside of 
 the pulley, A 3 , by the band, B 1 , and the pulley, J 1 , while the 
 dandy brush, by which the backs of the flats are cleaned before 
 they pass around the front block, is also driven from a small 
 groove on the inside of the pulley, A 3 , by the band, C 2 , and the 
 pulley, D 2 . 
 
 The feed roll is driven from the doffer by the gears, K l and 
 
 L 4 , the side shaft, C 3 , and the gears 
 G 2 and D. The front bearing for 
 the side shaft is made so that it may 
 be moved, horizontally, disengaging 
 the gears, K 1 and L 4 , when it is de- 
 sired to stop the feed roll. The lap 
 roll is driven from the feed roll by 
 the gears G, K, L and M 1 . 
 
 On the opposite side of the card 
 (Fig. 60) is the main pulley, A, 
 by which the card is driven. The 
 doffer is driven from a pulley, Z, 
 which is upon the leader by the belt, 
 T!,the barrowpulley, S 1 , the pinion, 
 T, and the gear, P 1 . Compounded 
 with P. 1 is a pinion, V 1 , which drives 
 the doffer gear, Q. The gears, T, 
 P 1 and Vi, and the barrow pulley 
 are fixed upon studs which are carried 
 by a lever, P, called the barrow bar. 
 
 By this, the driving of the feed roll, doffer, calender roll and 
 coiler is controlled. When it is desired to stop these parts, 
 the lever k dropped which disengages the pinion, V 1 , from the 
 gear, Q. 
 
 The calender rolls are driven from the doffer gear, Q, by the 
 gears U, H 2 and O. The gear, U, is called the rifle gear and 
 revolves upon a sleeve, or bushing, which is connected to a handle, 
 Y 2 . By turning this handle about one-quarter of a revolution, 
 the rifle gear is drawn sideways and out of gear with Q which is 
 
 Fig. 61. Plan of R. H. Card. 
 
 118 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 81 
 
 necessary when is it desired to stop the calender rolls and coilei 
 and still have the doffer turning. 
 
 Coiler. We will direct our attention now to the gearing of 
 the coiler, a vertical section of which is shown in Fig. 62. The 
 cotton, after passing between the calender rolls, M and D, enters 
 ths coiler, R, through the trumpet, C 4 , and is drawn between the 
 calender rolls, D 4 , and passes down an inclined hole (or spout) 
 in the coiler gear, S 2 , to 
 
 the can, S, in which it is auiilll>l ,^ c ^ h 
 
 laid in eyen and regular 
 coils. 
 
 The calender rolls are 
 driven from the upright 
 shaft, L 2 , by the gears, N 
 and N 1 . L 2 is driven 
 from the bottom calender 
 roll on the card by the 
 gears Y 1 , R 2 , V and Qi. 
 By the revolutions of the 
 coiler gear, the inclined 
 hole describes a circle of 
 a little more than half the 
 diameter of the can. 
 
 The can rests upon a 
 plate, L 3 , called the turn- 
 table, .by which it is re- 
 volved slowly in the oppo- 
 site direction from the 
 coiler gear and just fast 
 enough so that the coils 
 shall not overlap and 
 crowd each other. 
 
 On the under side of the turn-table is a gear, driven from the 
 upright shaft, L 2 , by the gears D^, O 1 , P 2 , Y, X and Z 1 . O 1 
 and P 2 are compounded and run loose on an upright stud, and Y 
 and X are compounded and run loose on the upright shaft. X 
 drives the turn-table through the intermediate gear, Z 1 . A plan 
 of this gearing is shown in Fig. 63. 
 
 Fig. 62. Vertical section of coiler. 
 
 lit 
 
COTTON Sl'IXMXCr. 
 
 Fig. 64 is a plan of the coiler top. .The trumpet, C 4 , is made 
 in the form of a large, flat plate which covers almost the whole of 
 
 the top. When it becomes necessary to 
 oil the calender roll bearings, it can be 
 done easily by pushing the plate to one 
 side, as shown in the drawing. By this 
 means, piecing is avoided, a feature which 
 will be appreciated by all carders who have 
 had to break the sliver to oil the coiler. 
 Fig. 65 shows a plan of a coiler with 
 the top raised. The calender rolls are 
 ke'pt together by a spring, N 2 , on the end 
 of which is a lever, L. When a wind-up 
 occurs on the calender rolls, the tension 
 upon the spring is removed by turning the 
 lever. 
 
 Stop Motion. One of the recent improvements, which has 
 been applied to the revolving flat card, is a calender roll stop- 
 motion which stops the revolutions of the feed roll and doffer 
 instantly, when from any cause, the sliver is absent from between 
 the calender rolls. 
 
 Fig. 63. Plan of turn- 
 table Bearing. 
 
 Fig. 64. Plan coiler top. 
 
 Fig 65. Plan of coiler with top raised 
 
 It happens quite frequently that the comb band breaks or 
 jumps from the score pulley, stopping the vibrations of tha doffer 
 comb. If this is unnoticed and the doffer runs for several minutes 
 
 180 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 the card wires get filled with fibers and the clothing of the cylinder, 
 doffer and flats becomes badly strained. 
 
 When the sliver breaks down from any cause, it often happens 
 that it will wind around the comb-blade. Should the doffer be 
 allowed to run in this condition, a bad jamb in the wires of the 
 doffer is likely to occur. 
 
 When the clothing is injured from causes of this kind, con- 
 siderable time is spent in stripping and brushing out the card, 
 straightening the wires and grinding. Frequently, the clothing 
 is rendered useless, as the foundation for the wires is strained so 
 badly that its elasticity is destroyed and it is necessary to redraw 
 it on both the cylinder and the doffer. 
 
 Fig. 66 and 67. Elevations of calendar roll stop motion. 
 
 The stop-motion is shown in three' views, irt Figs. 66, 67 and 
 68, which should be used in connection with Fig. 60. In Fig. 66, 
 which is a side elevation, the sliver, A, is shown passing between 
 the calender rolls, M and D. Upon the top calender roll, M, is a 
 segment gear, F, which rotates with the calender roll, while a 
 similar segment, L, is fastened to a sleeve, B, which is loose upon 
 the bottom calender shaft, N. On the outer end of this sleeve is 
 a lever, E, whose end rests under the handle of the lever, H, by 
 which the barrow bar, P, is thrown in and out of gear. The 
 barrow bar is raised and in gear, as shown by the horizontal posi- 
 
 121 
 
84 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 tion of the lever, H, and, with the silver between the calender 
 rolls, it will be seen that the teeth of the segment, F, are raised so 
 that it may revolve without imparting motion to the segment, L. 
 Should the sliver break or from any cause allow the calender rolls 
 to come together, the teeth of.F would engage with those of L and 
 give to the latter a partial revolution, which would turn the sleeve, 
 B, and with it the lever, E. This would cause the lever, H, to as- 
 sume the position shown in Fig. 67 and to drop the barrow bar, 
 P, and disengage the gears, driving the doffer. A plan of this device 
 is shown in Fig. 68. 
 
 Flexible Bend. As the flats pass forward over the cylinder, 
 they are supported, as we have already seen, by what is called the 
 flexible bend. The surface of the bend is concentric with the cyl- 
 inder. By this means, the distance between the wires of the flats 
 
 Fig. 68. Plan of calendar roll stop motion. 
 
 and the cylinder is maintained and upon' the correct se'tting, or 
 distance between the surfaces, depends, in a great measure, the 
 successful working of the card. If the flats are set too far away, 
 it will be found that the sliver contains little rolls of tangled 
 fibers, called neps, and if set too close, it will show raw, uncarded 
 places and look cloudy and rough, and the wires of the clothing 
 will become faced from rubbing together. These defects are 
 easily distinguishable in the fleece, as it passes from the doffer 
 comb to the calender rolls. The flats should be set as close as 
 possible without injury to the fibers. An average setting is 
 of an inch. 
 
 182 
 
X 
 
 I S 
 
 g * 
 
 < 2 
 
 u -3 
 
 H ffl 
 
 J 
 
 O 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 85 
 
 The wire teeth of the flats and cylinder require grinding, from 
 time to time, owing to their becoming dulled on the points, and, 
 as the grinding operation shortens them slightly, the space between 
 the wire surfaces is increased. In order to preserve the correct 
 relation between these two surfaces, the flats have to be reset, and 
 
 pq 
 
 <o 
 be 
 
 as the grinding also affects each of the flats, it will be understood 
 that they must be lowered, bodily, to the same extent towards the 
 center of the cylinder. This is accomplished by changing the radius 
 of the flexible bend. 
 
 The most common form of device for changing the radius is 
 
 123 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 called the five-point adjustment and is shown in Fig. 69. This 
 differs slightly in design among machinery builders but the prin- 
 ciple remains the same. The bend is supported at five equidistant 
 points, the sprocket stand, A, quarter block stand, B, top block 
 stand, C, grinder stand, D, and back block stand, E. At the 
 points, A and E, a stud, H, is screwed into the -bend, the outer end 
 of which passes through a slot in the stands, G. In the lower end 
 of the stands is an adjusting screw, L, which passes through the 
 web of the arch upon each side of which are nuts. At the points, 
 B and E, the bend is supported by another adjusting screw, M, 
 which also passes through the web of the arch, the upper end bear- 
 ing against the under side of the bend. At the center point, C, 
 the bend is supported by an adjusting screw, N, which passes 
 through the web of the arch, as at other points, and the upper end 
 of the screw is screwed into the under side of the bend. 
 
 When it is necessary to change the setting of the flats, the 
 screws and nuts on each side of the card, by which the bend is 
 secured to the stands, are loosened. The screw, M, at B and D, 
 should be dropped clear to the bend. The adjusting screws at 
 each of the five points are operated upon in turn, the center point, 
 C, first, then A and E, and last the points, B and D. By so doing, 
 the radius of the bend is made smaller and the flats are drawn 
 radially towards the center of the cylinder. It will be seen that at 
 the center point, C, the adjusting screw enters the bend so that in 
 lowering it this point must fall radially. But at the points, B 
 and D, the adjusting screws simply support the bend, while at 
 the ends, A and E, the studs, H, pass through slots in the stands, 
 G, permitting a slight movement of the bend endwise. The 
 reason for this is very simple. As the radius of the bend is made 
 smaller, it occupies a greater proportion of the circle, and as the 
 center point, C, falls in a radial line, the points A and E, and B 
 and D, must partake of a combined movement, radial and circum- 
 ferential. The slots in the stands at A and E permit this, while 
 at B and D, the screw, by simply bearing against the under side of 
 the bend, offers no resistance to this movement. 
 
 Another style, shown in Figs. 70 and 71, is called the scroll 
 adjustment. The bend, D, is supported at three points by arms, 
 A, B and C, instead of five, as in the first one shown, the bend 
 
 124 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 87 
 
 being made proportionately heavier and stiff er. The arms. A and 
 C, are connected to the bend by a stud, F, which passes through a 
 slot in the bend. The movement, endwise, is obtained by having 
 the slot in the bend instead of the arm. The center arm, B, is 
 not fastened to the bend, but acts as a support for it. A pin, E, 
 
 
 
 "s. 
 
 in the arm, prevents any circumferential movement of the bend. 
 The arms are all made in two pieces, partly for convenience in 
 manufacturing and in order to set them alike when the card is 
 first erected. Adjusting screws, L, are provided for the two end 
 
 125 
 
88 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 ones, which. afte v being set properly, are secured permanently by 
 dowel pins. The lower end of the arms is provided with teeth, 
 or threads, which work in the threads of a geared scroll, H, the 
 pitch of which is one-half inch. The scroll turns in a recess in 
 the arch which is concentric with the cylinder. Around the 
 periphery of this scroll is cut a gear of 110. teeth, which is in gear 
 with a pinion, J, of 11 teeth, which is fastened to one end of a 
 Btud, P ; an index wheel, K, having 50 teeth, or notches, is fas- 
 tened to the other end. 
 
 Fig. 71. Section and elevation of scroll. 
 
 It will be seen that, as the pitch of the scroll is one-half 
 inch, two revolutions will be necessary to give the arms and bend 
 one inch movement, radially, and, as the scroll has 110 teeth, to 
 give it two revolutions, would require twenty turns of the 11 
 toothed pinion, which would be equal to 1,000 notches. Thus, if 
 1,000 notches are required to change the radius of the bend one 
 inch, a movement of one notch will change the radius j-g^-g- of an 
 inch. After the card has been adjusted, a latch, N, can be pushed 
 between the notches of the index wheel and locked, preventing 
 the setting from being changed. 
 
 126 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 89 
 
 Flat Chain. After the card has been run some time, the 
 chain stretches so that it requires taking up. This is done, ulti- 
 mately, by removing a link in the chain, but not until it has 
 stretched enough for that ; in the meantime, it is customary to put 
 in a -quarter block of larger diameter, which is replaced by the 
 original when the link is removed. 
 
 A great deal of trouble comes from having the flat chain too 
 tight. All that is necessary is to keep the flats against the back 
 block. This point should not be overlooked. If the chain is 
 slack and the flats hang off as they pass around the back block, 
 they are liable to catch and give trouble, and on the other hand, 
 if very tight, the links and bushings will soon wear out and the 
 
 Fig. 72. Adjustable Cylinder Bearing. 
 
 flats will give trouble in grinding by not resting freely on the 
 grinding former. 
 
 Adjustable Cylinder Bearing. While a great deal depends 
 upon careful setting of the flats, many evils arise, such as the 
 wearing of the bearings, due to the weight of the cylinder, the puli 
 of the belt and various minor causes, all tending to alter the posi- 
 tion of the cylinder and thus destroying its concentricity with the 
 bend. When such wear takes place, some means must be pro- 
 vided to restore the cylinder to its concentric position. 
 
90 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 In Fig. 72 a section and a side elevation of an adjustable 
 cylinder bearing are shown. The cylinder boxes, or bearings, are 
 supported by pedestals, H 2 . The lower part of each pedestal 
 rests upon a slightly tapered plate, H 3 . Upon either side of the 
 pedestals are lugs, H 4 , which are securely fastened to the card 
 frame. From the plate, H 3 , projects a screw, C 2 , which passes 
 through one of the lugs, while from the pedestal, H 2 , projects a 
 screw, C 3 , which passes through the other lug. 
 
 When a vertical adjustment of the cylinder is required, the 
 tapered plate is given a horizontal movement by turning the nuts 
 on the screw, C 2 , but when a lateral adjustment is desired, the 
 pedestal and plate are moved together, both parts being fastened 
 to the card frame by cap screws, C 4 . 
 
 Sometimes, oil from'tlie cylinder bearings runs down on the 
 cylinder head, particularly if the card has been standing idle for 
 several days. When this occurs, the oil may get upon the cloth- 
 ing of the cylinder, softening the cement with which the several 
 layers in thejoundation are stuck together and causing them to 
 separate and puff up in places and destroy the holding power of 
 the wire teeth. To prevent this, the pedestal is made with a lip, 
 D 4 , projecting from the back side, directly under the bearing. 
 Any oil that drops will be caught by this lip and carried to the 
 outer side of the card frame, as indicated by the dotted lines. 
 
 Leader Clothing. The saw-tooth clothing, with which the 
 licker-in is covered, is made from thin, flit, steel wire, about one- 
 quarter of an inch in width and one-sixty-fourth of an inch thick, 
 with a shoulder on one edge. The teeth are formed by cutting 
 out a portion of the thin edge of the wire, making it resemble the 
 edge of a saw. The wire is inserted in grooves which are cut 
 spirally in the shell of the ricker-in, and there are, usually, eight 
 per inch, giving eight rows of teeth for each inch in the length of. 
 the face and about 112 teeth for each row in its circumference. 
 
 Two views of saw-tooth clothing are given in Fig. 73, show- 
 ing a, portion of the licker-in shell with the teeth inserted and a 
 side elevation of the teeth with the shell in section. 
 
 Fig. 74 is an enlarged front view of the teeth, showing the 
 depth to which the wire is let in to the shell, the shoulder of the wire 
 coining just below the surface. After the wire is inserted, the edge 
 
 128 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 91 
 
 <- a i INCH -> 
 
 of the groove next to the shoulder is upset slightly, by passing a 
 hardened steel disc over its surface, which prevents the wire from 
 pulling out. A licker-in, covered with 
 this style of clothing, requires no clean- 
 ing, stripping nor grinding and is sup- 
 erior in every respect to the licker-in 
 covered with leather clothing, which is 
 used on the old style stationary flat 
 cards. 
 
 Clothing for Cylinders, Doffer and 
 Flats. The clothing for the cylinder, 
 doffer and flats consists of a foundation 
 
 made up of from three to five thick- . 
 
 Fig. 73. Saw tooth clothing. 
 
 nesses of cotton, wool, linen or other 
 
 materials cemented firmly together, in whicli is set the wires, 
 forming the teeth, as shown in Fig. 75 a side elevation. The 
 wire extends from the back side of the foun- 
 dation at an angle, until a point nearly half way 
 of its length, called the knee, is reached and 
 then bends forward, the upper end returning 
 to a point about over the lower end, as shown 
 by the vertical line, A B. 
 
 Fig. *76, which is a front view, shows that 
 the teeth, which are made from a coil of wire, 
 are bent into the form of a staple. The two' 
 upward projecting prongs are called points and the horizontal 
 part connecting them is called the crown. 
 
 Defects in Cloth- 
 ing. A matter of 
 great importance, 
 often 
 
 the 
 
 B 
 
 Fig. 74. Section 
 of leader shell, 
 showing saw tooth 
 clothing. 
 
 one which is 
 overlooked, i s 
 amount of angle or 
 pitch given to the 
 tooth and the posi- 
 tion of the .point in 
 relation to the crown. 
 
 In one sense, the teeth are a series of hooks by which the 
 
 Fig. 75. Fig. 76. 
 
 Clothing for cylinder, doffer and flates. 
 
 129 
 
92 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 fibers are caught and carried forward. If the forward inclination 
 of the point is not sufficient, the teeth lose some of their holding 
 power, while if the inclination is too great, the holding power is 
 such as to cause serious defects in carding. To explain this more 
 fully, Figs. 77, 78, 79 and 80, which show several enlarged views 
 of card teeth, will be considered. 
 
 In Fig. 77, the crown of the tooth is marked A, the knee is 
 marked B and the point, C. The angle of that part of the tooth 
 between A and B is about fifteen degrees from a vertical line, and 
 this is the average of the wire for cotton card clothing. If the 
 angle is increased, as shown in Fig. 78, it is evident that the tooth 
 must have a much greater holding power, which will cause the 
 short fibers, neps and dirt to be forced to a considerable distance 
 
 
 Fig. 77. Fig. 78. Fig. 79. 
 
 Enlarged views of card teeth. 
 
 Fig. 80. 
 
 beneath the point. Otherwise, they would be caught by the flats 
 or thrown off, to fall through the screws. In this way, the spaces 
 between the teeth fill rapidly, which necessitates stripping the card 
 much oftener than would be required with the wire set properly 
 and it also makes the removal of the strippings much more difficult. 
 
 Another point in connection with the angle of the wire 
 being too great, is illustrated in Fig. 79. If the point of the tooth is 
 pushed back by a tuft of cotton, there is a liability of its straight- 
 ening at the knee, which, acting as a fulcrum, causes the point to 
 rise into the position shown by dotted lines. 
 
 Quite a common defect in card clothing is shown in Fig. 80. 
 If the point of a tooth stands too far forward of an imaginary ver- 
 tical line, drawn through the crown, and the tooth is forced back 
 while at work, it will rise above its natural plane to such an extent 
 
 190 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 93 
 
 as to cause the point to become faced by contact with the other 
 wire surfaces of the card. The height of the tooth from crown to 
 point is usually three-eighths of an inch and the knee is about 
 three-sevenths of the distance from the crown. Many times, the 
 causes of bad carding can be attributed to some of these faults 
 rather than to the construction of the machine. 
 
 Foundation for Clothing. The foundation for the teeth 
 should be of material that has the least possible amount of stretch, 
 in order to hold the wire firmly enough to carry around the fibers 
 which become attached and yet it should be flexible enough so 
 that the wires shall spring back to their original position when 
 they have been deflected by grinding, or by the strain put upon 
 them when the card is in operation. If the foundation is drawn 
 on too tightly, the wires are apt to break at the point where they 
 leave the foundation. 
 
 The material, composing the several layers of the foundation, 
 is varied somewhat to suit the different requirements. For the 
 cylinder and doff ere, it is generally four-ply : first a thickness of 
 twilled cotton cloth for the crown side, then a layer of coarse 
 linen threads, added to give strength and running lengthwise of 
 the clothing, next a thickness of heavy woolen cloth and last 
 another facing of twilled cotton cloth. Sometimes, an additional 
 facing of rubber is used, which answers a double purpose, giving 
 an elastic support to the wire where it leaves the foundation and 
 protecting the foundation from dampness. 
 
 For the flats, a three-ply foundation is almost always used, 
 called double covered or cotton wool and cotton. The crown and 
 face sides are of the twilled cotton and between them is 1 a layer of 
 closely woven heavy woolen cloth. The rubber facing is seldom 
 added, as the flats in passing back over the cylinder are often 
 exposed to the sun's rays, which cause the rubber to harden and 
 disintegrate. 
 
 A comparison of tests, made of several kinds of foundations, 
 show that a strip two inches wide of the four-ply above referred 
 to, when put under a tension of 300 pounds, became elongated 
 2 per cent. Four-ply foundation, cotton, wool and cotton, with 
 rubber face, became elongated 6^ per cent and leather foundation 
 elongated 14| per cent. 
 
 131 
 
94 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 Applying Clothing. The clothing for the cylinder and 
 doffer is made in continuous strips and . is called fillet. That used 
 for the cylinder is usually 2 inches wide and that for the doffer is 
 11 inches wide. It is drawn on to the surface by a device called 
 a clothing machine, which registers the tension put upon it, the 
 cylinder being clothed under a tension of about 350 pounds and 
 the doffer under about 275 pounds. 
 
 Fig. 81 shows a front and a rear elevation of a doffer. On 
 account of the fillet being wound, spirally, around- it, the teeth 
 must strike the fibers at a slight angle. It is desirous that this 
 angle be as small as possible, that the danger of the teeth break- 
 ing or being turned from their correct position will be reduced to 
 
 1 
 
 REAR VIETW 
 
 fRONT VIEW 
 
 Fig. 81. Front and Rear Views of Doffer. 
 
 a minimum and, as the doffer is about one-half the diameter of 
 the cylinder, the clothing is made narrower so that the angle 
 of the spiral shall be nearly the same as that of the cylinder. 
 
 In putting on the fillet, it is usually cut so as to form what is 
 called an inside taper, which leaves a straight edge extending the 
 whole distance around on the outside of each end of the doffer. The 
 clothing, which starts at A, is three-quarters of an inch wide and 
 continues this width until half around the doffer, where, at B, it 
 commences to widen, and when it has passed around to the point, 
 
 C, beside the starting point, A, it is the full width, l inches. 
 At C, the fillet is again cut down to half its width, the portion 
 cut out tapering until it reaches a point half around the doffer at 
 
 D. From here, it extends in full width to the opposite end of the 
 doffer where it is tapered to finish in the same manner as at the 
 starting point. 
 
 132 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 95 
 
 In Fig. 82 is shown a strip of fillet with the portion cut away 
 for an inside taper. The letters of reference used are the same as 
 in the preceding illustration. 
 
 The fillet for the cylinder is put on with an inside taper, also, 
 and in the same manner, but, as the cylinder is more than twice 
 the diameter of the doffer, a strip of considerable length has to be 
 cut away before the full width is reached. 
 
 Fig. 82. Strip of Doffer Fillet. 
 
 Number of Wire and Points per Square Foot in Clothing. 
 
 The wire teeth are set into the foundation of card clothing in 
 three different ways, known as open set, seldom used at the 
 present/ time, twill set, which is used 
 for the flats and rib set, which is 
 used for the cylinders and doffers. 
 The effect on the face of the clothing 
 is about the same, as far as the 
 arrangement of the points is con- 
 cerned, in all styles of setting. 
 
 A plan of the back or crown side 
 of a strip of fillet with the rib setting 
 is given in Fig. 83. The crowns, 
 extending across the width of the 
 fillet, are four to the inch, conse- 
 quently, across a strip of one and 
 one-half inch width, there are six 
 crowns, and, as the foundation is 
 about one-sixteenth of an inch wider 
 than the wire surface, a one and 
 one-half inch fillet covers a surface 
 
 h H 
 
 L- 4 Cf 
 
 ! 
 
 Fig. 83. Rib Set Fillet. 
 
 about one and nine-sixteenths inches wide. 
 
 The noggs, which run lengthwise of the fillet, are from ten to 
 twenty-eight to the inch. A nogg consists of a group of three 
 crowns, and, of course, to each crown are two points. The points 
 per square foot can be found in the following way: 
 
 Rule. To find the number of points per square foot, mtilci- 
 
 133 
 
96 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 ply together the number of noggs per inch, the crowns per inch, the 
 crowns per nogg, points per crown and the number of inches in a 
 square foot. Example : In Fig. 83, there are fourteen noggs to the inch ; 
 the points per square foot will be!4X4X3X2X 144, or 48,384. 
 
 Each nogg added per inch increases the number of points per 
 square foot 3,456. Thus, by multiplying the number of noggs 
 per inch, by this number, the points per square foot can be found. 
 
 Example: 3,456 X 14 = 48,384. 
 
 The twill set is shown in Fig. 84. The crowns extend length- 
 wise of the strip and are four to the inch. The noggs are counted 
 across and are from five to fourteen per inch. In each nogg there 
 are six crowns instead of three, as in the rib set, but the number 
 of points per square foot can be calculated in the same way. To 
 illustrate this, it will be seen that in Fig. 84, there are only seven 
 noggs per inch, but as there are just twice as many crowns to each 
 nogg, the points per square foot will be the same as in Fig. 83, which 
 has fourteen noggs per inch. 
 
 Example: 7X4X6X2X144= 48,384. 
 
 For the twill setting, each additional nogg per inch increases 
 the number of points per square foot 6,912. 
 
 When carding low grades of cotton, the wires of the clothing 
 are coarser and the number of points per square foot less, and when 
 carding long staple cotton, the wire is finer and the number of points 
 per square foot on all the clothed surface except the leader is gen- 
 erally increased. 
 
 Some machinery builders recommend that the cylinder and 
 flats be covered with the same clothing, while others think that 
 the doffer and flats should be the same. No rule can be given by 
 which the number of points per square foot and the size of the wire 
 can be determined that will fit all cases. For coarse work, No. 
 29 wire with 62,208 points per square foot is usually used for the 
 cylinder and flats and No. 30 wire with 65,664 points per square 
 foot for the doffer. For medium work, the cylinder and flats are 
 usually covered with No. 30 wire, 65,664 points per square foot 
 and the doffer with No. 31 wire, 72,576 points per square foot. 
 For fine work, the cylinder and flats should have No. 31 wire, 72,576 
 points per square foot and the doffer No. 32 wire with 79,488 points 
 per square foot. 
 
 134 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 97 
 
 The following tables give the points per square foot for both 
 rib and twill set clothing : 
 
 RIB SET CLOTHING. 
 
 Noggs per inch, Points per square foot. 
 
 10 34,560 
 
 11 38,016 
 
 12 41,472 
 
 13 44,928 
 
 14 , 48,384 
 
 15 51,840 
 
 16 55,296 
 
 17 58,752 
 
 18 62,238 
 
 19 65,664 
 
 20 69,120 
 
 21 72,576 
 
 22 76,032 
 
 23 79,488 
 
 24 82,944 
 
 25 86,400 
 
 26 89,856 
 
 27 93,312 
 
 28 96,768 
 
 TWILL SET CLOTHING. 
 
 Noggg per inch. Points per square foot. 
 
 5 34,560 
 
 &X 38,016 
 
 6 41,472 
 
 6# 44,928 
 
 7 48,384 
 
 7X 51,840 
 
 8 55,296 
 
 8> "... 58,752 
 
 9 _ 62,208 
 
 9> 65,664 
 
 10 : 69,120 
 
 10^ 72,576 
 
 11 76,032 
 
 UK 79,488 
 
 12 82,944 
 
 12# 86,400 
 
 13 89,856 
 
 13# 1 93,312 
 
 14 96,768 
 
 135 
 
98 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 Kinds of Wire for Card Clothing. In considering the kind 
 of wire to be used for the teeth, a question arises concerning which 
 there are many opinions. With the leather foundation used on 
 the old style stationary flat card, it is the universal practice to use 
 round iron wire, but on the revolving flat card, this kind be- 
 comes dulled quickly on account of the extra amount of work 
 done on this machine. We now use 
 mild steel wire which has been sub- 
 jected to a process of hardening and 
 tempering. It is claimed by many 
 that the round iron wire tooth is 
 preferable when quality of production, 
 and not quantity, is desired, as it deals 
 more gently with the fibers, conse- 
 quently they can be given a more 
 thorough carding without excessive 
 injury. 
 
 The various kinds of wire used 
 are shown on a very much enlarged 
 scale in plan and elevation in Fig. 85. 
 The one marked A is the ordinary 
 round wire. B represents the so- 
 called needle-pointed, or side-ground wire, and is made fron? 
 wire of round section by grinding two sides for a short distance 
 below the point. C is the plough-ground wire, also made from a 
 round section by grinding on 
 opposite sides about fifty per 
 cent of its original area as 
 far as the knee. The grind- 
 ing is done by drawing the 
 fillet over a flat surface, 
 crown side down, the teeth 
 passing between a series of 
 emery discs. The wire marked D is double convex and is oval 
 in section. E is made triangular in section by rolling and is 
 used for napping machines. 
 
 With regard to the respective merits of needle-pointed and 
 plough-ground wire, the latter seems to find the most favor, and 
 
 Fig. 84. Twill Set Fillet. 
 
 Fig. 8S. Card Tooth Wire. 
 
 136 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 137 
 
100 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 at the present time, is used almost wholly for the revolving flat 
 card. It is a matter hard to decide, how much better results are 
 obtained with it, but it certainly affords a trifle more space between 
 the wires for the reception of dirt, nep and short fibers. 
 
 When the card is first put into operation, it is difficult to re- 
 move the strippings from plough-ground wire, but after the sides 
 of the teeth become smooth, by constant stripping, they can be 
 removed much easier and better than with any other wire. 
 
 Grinding. It is necessary to grind the cylinder and doffer 
 after they are clothed to make the card work successfully. The 
 first grinding requires generally about ten days, depending upon 
 the condition of the clothing. If the wires are too hard, and if 
 some are higher than others, it often takes much longer. 
 
 After the first grinding, it is necessary, in the ordinary run- 
 ning of the card, to grind the cylinder and doffer about once in 
 four weeks. When carding long staple cotton, the time is reduced 
 to three or even two weeks. The period depends oftentimes on 
 the ability of the grinder to perform his allotted duty rather than 
 the actual need of the clothing. It is considered that frequent and 
 light grinding is better than to wait until the wires have become 
 so dull that a severe grinding is necessary to restore the points. 
 
 Fig. 86 shows a side elevation of a card with the grinder 
 rolls in position. The lap is withdrawn and the cylinder and 
 doffer are stripped and brushed clean. The card is run until all 
 the flats have passed the stripping brush and comb and have been 
 made clean. The main belt, C, is then changed and the cylinder 
 is run backwards or in the opposite direction from that which is re- 
 quired in carding. The side shaft is slid out of gear and the barrow 
 bar is dropped, the doffer being driven by a belt, F, and pulley, J, 
 from the pulley, D 3 , which drives the leader when carding. On 
 the end of the grinder rolls are score pulleys, N, which are driven 
 from two scores in the pulley, D 3 , by the bands, D and D. A 
 score pulley, E, is placed on the opposite end of the doffer for 
 driving the traverse motion of the grinder rolls by means of the 
 band, H, and pulley, P. 
 
 Another method of driving the grinder rolls, which is more 
 simple and is used considerably, is illustrated in Fig. 87. This 
 also requires the belt, F, band, H, and pulleys, J and E, but 
 
 138 
 
APPARATUS FOR GRINDING FLATS FROM THEIR WORKING SURFACES 
 
 Mason Machine Works. 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 101 
 
 
 
 139 
 
102 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 instead of using the two bands, D and D, for driving the grinders, 
 a single band, E 2 , is used that runs from the groove in the pulley, 
 D 3 , around the pulley, N, on the doffer grinder, then around the 
 pulley, N 1 , on the cylinder grinder, and then down around the in- 
 termediate comb pulley, N 2 , to the pulley, D 3 . 
 
 On sme makes of cards, this cannot be done, as there is 
 no intermediate pulley, the comb being driven directly from the 
 groove in the pulley, D 3 . 
 
 Long-roll Grinder. For the first grinding, the long-roll 
 grinder, shown in Fig. 88, is used. After this, in the periodical 
 grinding, unless the wires become jammed or badly worn, it is 
 seldom used. 
 
 It consists of an iron roll, seven inches in diameter, which 
 extends across the whole width of the surface to the ground. The 
 roll, which is wound with emery fillet, is supported at either end 
 by bearings, B, which are mounted in the grinder brackets, C. 
 
 Fig. 88. Long Roll Grinder. 
 
 On one end is a score pulley, N, by which the roll is driven, and 
 attached to the other end is a worm, D, which drives a worm gear, 
 E. This gear is enclosed in a case, F, which is shown in section, 
 and which forms a bearing for it to turn in. In the hub of the 
 gear is a pin, K, which is set eccentrically, so that as the gear 
 revolves, the pin describes a circle of about three-eighths of an 
 inch radius. Attached to the piri is one end of a yoke, H, the 
 other end of which is fastened to a downward projecting arm, J s 
 of the bearing. The revolutions of the grinder roll cause the 
 worm gear to turn, and, through the pin in its hub and the con- 
 necting yoke, the roll is given a movement, endwise, of about 
 three-fourths of an inch. This is done to prevent the high wires 
 of the clothing from receiving grinding from the same portion of 
 the face of the roll at all times, this preventing the emery fillet 
 from becoming worn and hollow in places. 
 
 140 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 103 
 
 Traverse Grinders. After the long grinder has been used a 
 sufficient time, the short or traverse grinder, shown in elevation 
 and section in Fig. 89, is used. The grinder roll, L, which is the 
 same diameter as the long grinder, is about four inches wide on 
 the face. It is mounted upon a shell, M, which has a slot, D, 
 extending throughout its length. Within the shell is a recipro- 
 cating screw, A, to which the grinder roll is connected bv a dog, 
 E, which slides in its threads. A score pulley, N, by which the 
 shell is driven, is fastened to one end while the screw is driven 
 from the other end of the shell by a train of gears, H, J, S and T, 
 which have 22, 16, 15 and 23 teeth, respectively. H is fastened 
 to the shell and drives J which is compounded with S and runs 
 loose on a stud, B. T is fastened to the screw and is driven by 
 
 F H 
 
 Fig. 8P. Traverse Grinder. 
 
 S. The gears are enclosed in a case, F, which, to prevent its 
 turning, is fastened to the grinder bracket, C, by a lug. By this 
 means, the shell, which carries the grinder roll, is run at a greater 
 speed than the screw, causing the grinder roll to move longitudi- 
 nally along the shell, and as the screw is cut with right and left 
 hand threads, a reciprocal movement is given to the grinder, which 
 causes it to move back and forth from one side to the other of the 
 surface being ground. 
 
 For each hundred revolutions of the shell, the screw turns 
 89.67 revolutions in the same direction (10.33 revolutions less 
 than the shell) and as the screw is one and one-half inches pitch, 
 10.33 revolutions will move the grinder roll 15i inches along the 
 shell. 
 
 141 
 
104 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 Another style of traverse grinder is shown in Fig. 90, which 
 consists of a roll, L, a screw, A, a dog, E, and a shell, M, with a 
 slot, D, all of which are the same as on the grinder shown previ- 
 ously. On one end of the grinder is a pulley, N, which drives the 
 shell ; on the other end is a similar pulley, P, of slightly different 
 diameter. The shell and screw are thus run at different speeds 
 and the roll is traversed to and fro on the shell. This style of 
 grinder requires the pulley, E, and band, H, as shown in Figs. 86 
 and 87 to drive the screw for the traverse. 
 
 U L 
 
 Fig. 00. Traverse Grinder. 
 
 Speed of Grinder Rolls. The surface speed of the cylinder 
 is about 2,200 feet per minute and that of the doffer is 1,921 
 feet per minute. The surface speed of the grinders is about 900 
 feet per minute in the opposite direction from the cylinder and 
 doffer. This gives a total surface speed for the cylinder grinder 
 of 2,200 feet plus 900 feet, which makes 3,100 feet per minute, 
 and for the doffer, it is 1,921 feet plus 900 feet, which makes 2,821 
 feet per minute. This is considered as high speed as hardened 
 and tempered steel wire will stand. The doffer is run at a slightly 
 slower surface speed as it does not require as much grinding as 
 the cylinder. 
 
 When grinding the flats, there is no loss in production from 
 stopping as the work is done while the card is in operation. 
 
 Flat Grinders. The flat-grinding device, which is a part of 
 the card, is attached in different positions. Upon some cards, the 
 grinding is done as the flats return over the top of the cylinder 
 between the front sprocket and center block ; other makers grind 
 just back of the center block, while upon some cards, the flats are 
 ground directly above the licker-in as they pass around the back 
 block. 
 
 With the grinding device attached in either of the first two 
 positions mentioned, the flats are ground in an inverted position. 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 105 
 
 By some, this is considered an evil, the claim being made that the 
 flats deflect slightly in the center by their own weight and cause 
 the grinding roll to bear harder on the ends and when they pass 
 around on to the cylinder, the deflection is in the opposite direc- 
 tion, which produces a convex surface, making' the wires in the 
 center a trifle closer to the cylinder than at the ends. This makes 
 an error in setting. 
 
 When the flats are ground as they pass around the back 
 block, their working face is downward, in the same position as 
 when they rest upon the bend. By grinding in this position, the 
 
 Fig. 91. Elevation of Grinder Roll and Flat. 
 
 disadvantage arising from deflection is eliminated. Opinions 
 are divided in regard to which is in the best position. The exist- 
 ing evil, if it can be called such, caused by deflection, is often 
 magnified and no perceptible difference in the working of the 
 card can be seen. 
 
 To have the flats alike and perfectly accurate, they should be 
 ground from the same surface which bears upon the bend, but 
 owing to their being closer to the cylinder at the heel than at the 
 toe, this surface is not parallel with the face of the flat. This 
 presents a problem which has been given considerable attention 
 
 143 
 
106 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 and which will be understood better by referring to Fig. 91. 
 The surface of the flat whicli bears upon the bend is indi- 
 cated by the horizontal line, A B, and the face by the line, 
 C D, the heel of the flat by E and the toe by F. The center of 
 the grinding roll is indicated by the vertical line, G H, which is 
 at right angle to the line, A B. As the flat which passes in the 
 direction shown by the arrow, comes over the center of the grind- 
 ing roll, the wires on the heel will receive grinding, but as it ad- 
 
 Fig. 92. Elevation Showing Position of Flat Grinders When in Use. 
 
 vances until the toe comes to this point, it is evident that it will 
 receive no grinding, owing to the inclination of the wire face. 
 The flats must therefore be tipped, as they pass the grinding roll, 
 so that they shall be ground parallelly to their Avorking face. 
 This necessitates a special surface, called a "grinding former," lor 
 the flats to bear upon. 
 
 144 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 107 
 
 A device for grinding the flats with the face down is shown 
 in Fig. 92. The grinding roll, L, is mounted in self-adjusting 
 bearings, D, which are supported by brackets, E, and which are 
 adjustable from the grinding former, A, by means of the screw, B. 
 The grinding former and bracket, which are connected to the lever, 
 F, are pivoted upon a stud, C. A weight lever, G, pivoted upon 
 
 Fig. 93. Elevation Showing Position of Flat Grinder When Not in Use. 
 
 a similar stud, H, is connected to the lever, F, by a curved arm, J. 
 The weight lever is thrown forward and holds the former firmly 
 in position against the bearing surface of the flats as they pass 
 around the sprocket wheel, M. The surface of the former is so 
 shaped as to tip the flats enough to cause grinding to take place 
 across the whole width of the face. 
 
 Fig. 93 shows the position of the grinding apparatus when 
 
 145 
 
108 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 the card is not being ground ; the weight lever is thrown back, 
 dropping the grinding former out of contact with the flats. 
 
 An attachment for grinding the flats, in an inverted position 
 over the cylinder, is shown in Figs. 94 and 95. The grinding roll, 
 L, is mounted in bearings, A, which are adjusted from the grinding 
 bracket, C, by the screws, B. The grinding former, D, is fastened 
 securely to the grinding bracket with the bearing surface down- 
 
 H 
 
 Fig. 94. Elevation Showing Flat Grinder. 
 
 ward. The flats are kept in contact with the former by a weight 
 lever, F, which is pivoted upon a stud, G, and which has a weight, 
 H, upon its outer end. As the flats pass along to the grinding 
 former, they are supported upon the projecting arms, E, of the 
 bracket, but as they come directly under the grinding roll, they 
 are raised slightly by the rounding end of the weight lever, and, 
 by means of the weight, are held firmly against the former. 
 
 Grinding Former. Figs. 96, 97 and 98 show the grinding 
 
 14 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 109 
 
 former with the flats in three positions. It will be seen that the 
 former is made with an offset, directly under the center of the grind- 
 
 Fig. 96. Section Showing Flat Grinder. 
 
 Fig 96. Position of Flat before Grinding. 
 
 ing roll, equal to the difference in the height of the bearing surface 
 between the heel and toe of the flat. 
 
 147 
 
110 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 In Fig. 96, the flat is shown advancing towards the grinding 
 roll with the wire face at an angle. Fig. 97 shows the flat in 
 contact with the grinding roll. The offset in the former tips the 
 
 Fig. 97. Position of Flat when Grinding. 
 
 flat just enough to cause the wire face to pass horizontally 
 beneath the grinding former. Fig. 98 shows the flat as having 
 
 Fig. 98. Position of Flat after Grinding,. 
 
 passed the grinding roll, its wire face assuming an angular posi- 
 tion. When the flats are not being ground, the weight lever is 
 raised and held up by the hook, J. (Figs. 94 and 95.) This 
 
 148 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 Ill 
 
 drops the short end of the lever out of contact with the flats 
 which pass along clear of the grinding former. 
 
 Burnishing. It is necessary, usually, to burnish the teeth of 
 the card clothing, after the card is first ground, to remove the 
 burrs and rough edges which are formed sometimes upon the 
 teeth, particularly when they are overground. Burnishing is 
 also resorted to when the teeth become rusty. Otherwise, the 
 sliver will show streaks of cloudy and uncarded cotton. 
 
 Burnishing is done by a re- 
 volving wire-toothed brush which 
 is mounted in suitable bearings. 
 Its teeth penetrate from ^ to Jg- 
 of an inch below the points of the 
 caid teeth and it is usually about 
 seven inches in diameter over the 
 points of the teeth. It is shown 
 in end elevation in Fig. 99. The 
 brush consists of a wooden roll, 
 wound with straight wire fillet, 
 number 32 wire being used, with 
 about 6^ noggs per inch. The 
 wires are about | of an inch high, 
 above the crown, and stand radially from the center of the roll. 
 
 An elevation of the card with the burnishing brushes in 
 position is shown in Fig. 100. The cylinder and doffer are 
 burnished at the same time. The device for driving the various 
 parts, although very simple, requires some explanation. The 
 brushes, D, D, are supported at each end by stands which are 
 adjusted from the arches of the cylinder and doffer. Upon the 
 ends of the brush shafts are pulleys, E and E. In place of the 
 usual barrow bar pulley is a pulley, H, the face of which has 
 grooves for the bands, B, M and N. 
 
 In the face of the loose pulley, A, on the end of the cylinder 
 shaft, is a groove which carries the band, B, for driving the pulley, 
 H, while the burnishing brushes are driven from H by the bands, 
 M and N. The doffer is also driven from the pulley, H, by the 
 gears, T, P 1 , V 1 and Q, the last being upon the doffer shaft. On 
 the opposite -end of the doffer, shown by dotted lines, is a pulley, 
 
 Fig. 99. 
 
 Elevation of Burnishing 
 Brush. 
 
 148 
 
112 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 113 
 
 J, by which the cylinder is driven through the belt, F, and pulley, 
 D 3 . As motion is transmitted to all parts of the machine 
 through the band, B, it must be kept reasonably tight. 
 
 The main belt, C, is run on the loose pulley, A, which should 
 be caused to turn backwards, or in the same direction as the 
 cylinder, when grinding and burnishing. This may seem, at a 
 glance, to be unnecessary, as the band, B, can be crossed to give 
 the proper direction to the cylinder and doffer, but should the belt 
 by any cause be moved on to the tight pulley, considerable damage 
 might be done to the teeth of the cylinder, as it would be turning 
 in the opposite direction to the loose pulley, but with the loose 
 pulley turning in the same direction as the cylinder, no accident 
 can happen to the cylinder clothing if the belt should slip on to 
 the tight pulley. 
 
 Stripping. Under ordinary 
 conditions, the card requires to be 
 stripped twice each day. For 
 waste and very short and dirty 
 cotton, it should be done four times 
 a day. 
 
 The operation consists in re- 
 moving the dirt and short fibers 
 which become lodged in the wires 
 of the cylinder and doffer while 
 the card is at work. 
 
 The stripping brush, shown in 
 end elevation in Fig. 101, is of 
 about the same size and general 
 appearance as the burnishing brush, 
 
 except that the wires are bent, similarly to the card clothing 
 teeth, instead of being straight. 
 
 Fig. 102 shows the card in elevation with the stripping 
 brush mounted in the stands in position for cleaning the cylinder 
 and doffer. It is set so that its wires penetrate about |- of an 
 inch into the card teeth and it is driven from a groove in the 
 loose pulley, A, by a band, P, and pulley, S. 
 
 The main belt, C, is run on to the tight pulley just far 
 enough to turn the cylinder around very slowly, one revolution 
 
 Fig. 101. Elevation of Stripping 
 Brush. 
 
 151 
 
114 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 being sufficient. The surfaces of thb cylinder and brush, which 
 are in contact, turn hi the same direction, but, as the brush runs 
 at a much greater speed, the dirt is removed very easily. The 
 band is then taken off and the brush is placed in position for 
 stripping the doffer, being driven by a band, E, in the same 
 manner as is the cylinder. Previous to stripping the doffer, the 
 driving belt is moved on to the tight pulley and allowed to 
 remain while the brush is being placed in position and is then 
 moved back on to the loose pulley for driving the brush. The 
 barrow bar, which has remained down, is now thrown into ge;ir; 
 the doffer is allowed to make one revolution and is driven through 
 the regular gearing, from the momentum acquired by the cylinder, 
 while the belt was on the tight pulley. 
 
 It -will be seen that the surface of the doffer runs in the 
 opposite direction from the brush, but the wires of each are bent 
 at such an angle that the work is easily accomplished. After the 
 card is stripped, the brush itself needs cleaning, which is done by 
 a hand card. 
 
 Calculations. The production of the card is governed by the 
 weight of the sliver per yard and the number of revolutions of 
 the doffer per minute. Although the doffer is not the actual 
 delivery roll, it is considered in the calculations. To have this 
 fully understood, diagrams, showing the gearing of four of the 
 leading makes of revolving Hat cards, are shown in Figs. 103, 104, 
 105 and 106. The gearing of all is very similar so that what- 
 ever calculations are made upon one may be very easily followed 
 through upon another. These calculations are figured from the 
 gearing shown in Fig. 106. 
 
 The doffer is 24|^ inches in diameter on the face of the cloth- 
 ing, therefore, each revolution that it makes will deliver a length 
 of sliver equal to its circumference which is 77.75 inches. But 
 after leaving the doffer, the sliver passes between the calender 
 rolls on the card and then between the calender rolls in the coiler 
 box, where in each case it is subjected to a slight draft. This addi- 
 tional draft, or elongation, reduces the weight of the sliver some- 
 what from what it weighed at the doffer, so that, as the calender 
 rolls in the coiler are the actual delivery rolls, the length de- 
 livered by them at each revolution of the doffer should be 
 
 1012 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 115 
 
 a 
 
 c 
 M 
 tc 
 
 c 
 
 'i 
 
 o 
 
 163 
 
116 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 considered in figuring the production. These rolls are 2| inches 
 in diameter and make 13.22 revolutions to one of the doffer. This 
 gives a delivery of 88.25 inches for each revolution, instead of 
 77.75 inches, as when taking the actual circumference of the doffer. 
 Rule 1. To find the production of the card: Multiply to- 
 gether the number of revolutions of the doffer per minute (13), 
 the number of inches delivered at each revolution (88.25), the 
 weight of the sliver per yard (60 grains) and the number of 
 minutes run per day (600). Divide the product by 7,000 (the 
 number of grains in one pound) multiplied by 36 (number of 
 inches in a yard). 
 
 Example: 13 X ^ * ^ X 6 - - i o 
 
 In the above example, the time run per day is given as 600 
 minutes, or ten hours, no allowance having been made for the time 
 lost in stripping and cleaning, which, under ordinary circum- 
 stances, amounts to about 5 per cent. 
 
 Rule 2. To find the factor for the production of the card in 
 10 hours : Proceed as in Rule 1 but omit the revolutions of the 
 doffer and the weight of the sliver. 
 88.25 X 600 
 
 Exampl6: 7000 X 36 : ' 21011 
 
 Rule 3. To find the production with factor given: Multi- 
 ply the factor by the number of revolutions of the doffer and the 
 weight of the sliver. 
 
 Example: .21011 X 13 X 60 = 163.89 
 
 Rule 4. - To find the speed of the doffer : Multiply together 
 the driving gears and the number of revolutions of the cylinder 
 (165 R. P. M.) and divide their product by the product of the 
 driven gears. [The driving gears are D 3 , Z, T (change gear, 30 
 teeth) and V 1 .] (The driven gears are B, S*, P 1 and Q.) 
 
 165 X 18 X 6 X 30 X 20 
 Exara P le : 7 X 12X40X192 = 16 ' 57 R ' R M ' 
 
 Rule 5. To find the factor for the speed of the doffer ; Pro- 
 ceed as in rule 4, but omit the doffer change gear. 
 
 Io5 X 18 X 6 X 20 
 Example: 7 X 12 X 40 X 192 = ' 52 
 
 154 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 117 
 
 L18 
 
 21 JE ii n 2>DIA 
 
 N I CALENDER ROLL 
 
 PH 
 
 o 
 
 *o 
 
 
 ce 
 
 c 
 5 
 
 I 
 t'c 
 
 155 
 
118 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 Rule 6. To find the speed of the doffer: Multiply the fac- 
 tor by the number of teeth (30) in the doffer change gear. 
 
 Example: .552 X 30 16.5G 
 
 Rule 7. To find the number of teeth in the doffer change 
 gear that will give the required revolutions of the doffer : Divide 
 the required number of revolutions by the factor. 
 
 Example: 16.56 ^ .552 = 30 
 
 In Rule 5, the factor for the speed of the doffer is figured 
 with the cylinder at 165 R. P. M., but as the cylinder is often 
 run at other speed, it is convenient to have a factor which can be 
 .used with the cylinder at any speed. 
 
 Rule 8. To find the factor for the speed of the doffer with 
 the cylinder at any speed : Multiply together the driven gears and 
 divide the product by the product of the driving gears, omitting 
 the doffer change g-ear. 
 
 . 7 X 12 X 40 X 192 
 Example: 18 X 6 X 20 
 
 Rule 9. To find the speed of the doffer: Multiply the num- 
 ber of revolutions of the cylinder by the number of teeth in the 
 doffer change gear and divide the product by the factor. 
 
 165 X 30 
 Example: . = 16.57 R. P. M. 
 
 Rule 10. To find the number of teeth in the doffer change 
 gear when the speeds of the cylinder and doffer are given: Mul- 
 tiply the' factor by the number of revolutions of the doffer and 
 divide the product by the revolutions of the cylinder. 
 
 298.66 X 16.5T 
 Example: ~T65~ " 29 '" 
 
 Rule 11. To find the draft of the card between the feed 
 roll and the calender rolls in the coiler box: Multiply together 
 the driving gears and the diameter of the coiler calender roll and 
 divide the product by the product of the driven gears multiplied 
 by the diameter of the feed roll, omitting all intermediate gears. 
 [The driving gears are G 2 , L 4 , Q, Y 1 , V and N, and the driven 
 gears are. D, (change gear 16 teeth) K 1 , O, R2, Q 1 and N*.] As L* 
 
 156 
 
COTTOX SPINNING. 
 
 119 
 
 Lie 
 
 IT! DIA. 
 
 CALENDER ROLL 
 
 M 15 
 
 157 
 
120 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 and K 1 , V and Q 1 and N and N 1 are in pairs, they may be omitted 
 in the calculation.' In order to avoid fractions, the diameter of 
 the feed roll, which is 2^ inches, can be called 18, as there are -^ 
 in 2| inches, and the diameter of the coiler calender roll, which is 
 2^, can be called 17. 
 
 120 x 192 X 31 X IT 
 Example : 16 X . 80 X 16Xl = 98 ' 68 
 
 Rule 12. To find the draft factor: Proceed as in Rule 11 
 but omit the draft change gear. 
 
 120 X 192 X 31 X 17 
 Exam P le: 30 X 15X18 
 
 Rule 13. To find the draft: Divide the factor by the num- 
 ber of teeth in the draft change gear (16). 
 
 Example: 1499.02 -f- 16 = 93.68 
 
 Rule 14. To find the number of teeth in the draft gear 
 when the draft is given : Divide the factor by the draft. 
 
 Example : 1499.02 4- 93.68 = 16 
 
 Rule 15. To find the draft of the card necessary to make a 
 sliver of a certain weight from a lap of a given weight: Multiply 
 the weight of the picker lap in ounces per yard (14) by the num- 
 ber of grains in one ounce (437.5) and divide the product by the 
 weight of the sliver in grains per yard, that it is desired to make 
 (60). 
 
 Example: ^^ = 102.08 
 
 In the foregoing rule, no allowance has been made for the 
 loss in weight in carding due to fly and stripping, which 
 amounts, on an average, to 5 per cent, which should be con- 
 sidered. 
 
 14 X 437.5 X 95 
 Example: -^- = 96.97 
 
 Rule 16. To find the length in, feet of fillet necessary to 
 cover a cylinder or doffer: Multiply together the length of the 
 face of the doffer (41") by its diameter and 3. 1410 and divide the 
 
 153 
 
COTTOX SPINNING. 
 
 121 
 
 2 " DIA - 
 
 CALENDER ROLL. 
 38 H A 18 K 
 
 159 
 
122 COTTON" SPINNING. 
 
 product by the width of the fillet (1^") multiplied by 12 inches. 
 
 41 X 24 X 3.1416 
 
 Example: 1 1 NX 10 -- = 171.74 
 
 i^ X -L^ 
 
 The following are the draft factors and factors for the speed 
 of the doffer for the cards shown in Figs. 103, 104 and 105. 
 
 Fig. 103. Draft factor . The driving gears are B, F, H, P and 
 N. The driven gears are D (change gear), E, S, M and L. E 
 and F are in pairs. The feed roll is 2| inches in diameter and 
 the coiler calendar roll is 2 inches in diameter. Their diameters 
 can be called 9 and 8 respectively 
 
 120 X 190 X 23 X 21 X 8_ 
 
 21 X 17 X 18 X 9 
 
 Factor for the speed of the doffer with the cylinder at 165 
 R. P. M. The driving gears are A, R and T (change gear). 
 The driven gears are C, G and H. 
 
 165 X 18 X 4 
 
 7X 18 X 190- 
 
 Fig. 104. Draft factor. The driving gears are B, F, H, P 
 and N. The driven gears are D (change gear) E, S, M and L. 
 E and F are in pairs. The feed roll is 2^g inches in diameter, or 
 |9, and the coiler calender roll is 1-J-l- inches in diameter, or ^|- 
 The diameters may be called 39 an'd 27, respectiv ly. 
 
 130 X 190 X 29X.24X 27 
 28 X 15 X 18 X 39 
 
 Factor for the speed of the doffer with the cylinder at 165 
 R. P. M. The driving gears are A, R and T (change gear). 
 The driven gears are C, G and H. 
 
 165 X "18x4 
 
 = - 5< 
 
 Fig. 105. Draft factor. The driving gears are S, E, M, C, J 
 and V. The driven gears are D (change gear),F, P, H, K and R. 
 E and F and V and R are in pairs. The diameter of the feed roll 
 and the coiler calender roll can be called 9 and 8, respectively. 
 
 160 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 25 DIA. 
 CALENDER ROLL 
 
 161 
 
124 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 160 X 192 X 39 X 36 X 8 
 
 ^ " 907^04. 
 
 . 27 X 38 X 18 X 9 
 
 Factor for the speed of the doffer with the cylinder at 165 
 R. P. M. The driving gears are N, L and T (change gear). 
 The driven gears are B, G and M. The diameter of L, which is 
 4^ inches, can be called 17, and the diameter of G, which is 15| 
 inches, can be called 62. 
 
 165X18X17 Q . 
 
 7 X 62 X 192 ' bl 
 
 162 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 PART m. 
 
 COMBING. 
 
 In the manufacture of the finer qualities of yarn which de- 
 mand long staple cotton, the combing process, which is necessary, 
 follows carding, although the card sliver is very often subjected 
 to one process of drawing before it is combed. Briefly speaking, 
 the operation of combing, which is entirely different from all other 
 branches of cotton spinning, consists in removing the short fibers 
 and neps which remain in the sliver after carding. 
 
 Combed yarns are used for various purposes, among which 
 may be mentioned hosiery and underwear, sewing thread, laces 
 and fine cotton fabrics. 
 
 In considering the uses for combed yarns, three important 
 points should be kept in view in order to thoroughly understand 
 the merits of combing ; first, the length of the cot.ton fibers, sec- 
 ond, the twist per inch in the yarn and third, the counts of yarn 
 spun. 
 
 Yarn depends, mainly, for its' strength upon the amount of 
 twist it contains and the length of the fibres. For hosiery and 
 underwear, it must be soft twisted so that it will be smooth to the 
 touch, and, in order that it shall be sufficiently strong, long staple 
 cotton must be used. 
 
 Yarn for thread and fine cotton fabrics is much harder 
 twisted, and, as the fine numbers of yarn contain comparatively 
 few fibers per cross section, they must be long enough to receive 
 a sufficient number of twists. It will thus be seen that the fibers 
 in combed yarn must be approximately uniform in -length which 
 result can be obtained only by combing. 
 
 Arrangement of Combing flachines. There are generally 
 three machines used in the combing process, viz : The sliver lap 
 machine, the ribbon lapper and the comb, although very often the 
 ribbon lapper is not used. In that case, the slivers, after leaving 
 the card, are put through one process of drawing and from the 
 
 165 
 
126 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 drawing frame are put through the sliver lap machine and made 
 into a lap for the comb. When all three machines are used, the 
 drawing process is usually omitted before combing and the ribbon 
 lapper, which corresponds to it, is used instead. But in all cases, 
 the sliver lap machine is necessary to prepare the laps for comb- 
 ing and two or three drawing processes are necessary after 
 combing. 
 
 To make this .perfectly clear, the different arrangements of 
 the machines used in combing are given below. 
 
 With the ribbon lapper the machines used are : 
 
 1. Sliver lap machine. 
 
 2. Rrbbon lapper. 
 
 3. Comb. 
 
 When the ribbon lapper is' omitted, the machines used are : 
 
 1. Drawing frame. 
 
 2. Sliver lap machine. 
 
 3. Comb. 
 
 When the drawing frame is used with the ribbon lapper, the 
 following machines are used: 
 
 1. Drawing frame. 
 
 2. Sliver lap machine. 
 
 3. Ribbon lapper. 
 
 4. Comb. 
 
 Sometimes double combiny is resorted to for the very best yarn. 
 The machines are then arranged in one of the two following orders : 
 
 1. Sliver lap machine. 
 
 2. Ribbon lapper. 
 
 3. Comb. 
 
 4. Sliver lap machine. 
 
 5. Ribbon lapper. 
 
 6. Comb. 
 
 If the ribbon lapper is omitted. 
 
 1. Drawing frame. 
 
 2. Sliver lap machine. 
 
 3. Comb. 
 
 4. Drawing frame. 
 
 5. Sliver lap machine. 
 
 6. Comb. 
 
 166 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 127 
 
 Sliver Lap riachine. The sliver lap machine prepares the 
 laps for the comb by If.ying the card or drawing frame slivers, as 
 the case may be, in the form of a narrow sheet which is wound 
 upon a wooden core, or spool, into a lap 12 inches to 14 inches in 
 diameter. The number of slivers at the back of the machine 
 
 depends upon their weight and the width of the lap to be made. 
 In the earlier types of these machines, the laps were made 7 to 9 
 inches in width but the present ones are built to make a lap 10 
 to 11 inches wide. This will require fourteen to twenty slivers, 
 
128 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 and, as the laps must be free from thin places, the machine is pro- 
 vided with a stop motion, which instantly operates, when a sliver 
 breaks or a can becomes empty. 
 
 An elevation of the machine is shown in Fig. 107 and a sec- 
 
 tion in Fig. 108. From the cans, A, the slivers are drawn over 
 the stop-motion spoons, B, and through the guides, C, and between 
 three pairs of draft rolls, D, E and F, where they are subjected to 
 a slight d.-aft, from two to three usually being sufficient, as all 
 
 168 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 129 
 
 that is required is to straighten the slivers slightly, so that the 
 needles of the comb may deal more gently with the fibers, particu- 
 larly when the ribbon lapper is omitted between the sliver lap 
 machine and' the comb. From 'the draft rolls, the slivers next 
 pass between two pairs of heavily weighted smooth calender rolls, 
 H H, and, H II, and are formed into a thin, fleecy sheet which is 
 drawn forward and wound upon a wooden spool into a lap, which 
 is revolved by contact with. a pair of fluted lap rollsj X X. The 
 ends of the laps are formed by a pair of plates, M, which revolve 
 with the lap, making very even selvages. 
 
 Directly beneath the lap rolls is a friction or break pulley, S, 
 which is keyed upon a shaft, T. Around this pulley is a leather 
 strap, W, both ends of which are fastened to a foot lever, O, 
 which is hung upon a stud, V. Upon the long end of the foot 
 lever is a weight, X. The lever is balanced so that the weight 
 keeps the strap tight at all times. Upon each end of the shaft 
 with this pulley is a pinion, R, in gear with a rack, P, the end of 
 which is connected to the lap roll arbor, L, which passes through 
 the spool upon which the lap is wound. As the lap increases in 
 diameter, it lifts the racks, the upward movement of which is re- 
 tarded by the friction of the strap around the break pulley. By 
 this means, the laps are wound very firmly and compactly. 
 
 In addition to the back stop-motion, the machine is provided 
 with a full lap stop-motion, or measuring device, whereby the size 
 and weight of the laps may be governed. This is operated by a 
 projecting piece on one of the racks which comes in contact with 
 the stop-motion arm as the lap reaches its full diameter. To 
 remove the lap, the attendant presses upon the foot lever, re- 
 leasing the strap from around the break pulley. The lap is then 
 raised clear of the lap rolls by the hand wheel, X, and the arbor is 
 withdrawn. 
 
 The draft rolls are dead weighted, each roll having an inde- 
 pendent weight, G 1 , hung by stirrups, in the usual manner. In 
 each weight is a square hole through which extends the shaft, G, 
 which has a cajn-shaped projection along its face. This shaft is 
 supported by bearings at each end and at one end is a handle, G 2 , 
 by which the shaft may be turned. When it is desired to remove 
 the weight from the draft rolls, this shaft is given a quarter revo- 
 
 160 
 
130 
 
 COTTON SPINNING* 
 
 lution and its cam-shaped face brought against the upper side of 
 the hole in the weights. In this manner, the weight may be 
 entirely removed from the rolls and transferred to the shaft. 
 
 The top pair of calender rolls is provided with a top clearer, 
 
 C 1 , which consists of a 
 heavy iron piece, lined 
 with clearer cloth. The 
 underside of this piece 
 is shaped to fit the out- 
 line of the calender rolls, 
 its weight holding it 
 firmly down upon them. 
 The clearer, F 1 , for the 
 under pair of calender 
 rolls is also shaped to 
 fit the rolls but is of 
 wood instead of iron. 
 It is held up against the 
 rolls by a counter- 
 weight, H 1 , which is 
 hung upon a stud, L 1 . 
 The draft rolls are also 
 provided with a clearer, 
 D 1 . In addition to their 
 own weight, the top cal- 
 ender rolls are lever 
 weighted, the rod, E 1 , 
 connects the yoke which 
 is over Ihe bearings of 
 the top rolls with the 
 weight lever, N % upon 
 which is the weight, P J . 
 
 BACK ROLL if'OIA 
 
 ^ B^^gg 
 ^B^HBM^B 
 MID. ROLL 1 1 DIA 
 
 Fig. 109. Diagram of Gearing of 
 Sliver Lap Machine. 
 
 The fulcrum for the weight lever is a projecting lug, S 1 , upon the 
 frame of the machine. 
 
 Calculations. Fig. 109 is a diagram of the gearing of the 
 sliver lap machine. 
 
 Rule 1. To find the draft: Multiply the number of slivers, 
 entering at the back (16), by their weight in grains per yard 
 
 170 
 
0. '- 
 
 < 1 
 
 ! 
 
 W S 
 
 > 2 
 2 s 
 
 in fl 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 181 
 
 (42.5) and divide the product by the weight of the lap in grains 
 per yard (272). 
 
 42.5X16 
 Example : 
 
 272 
 
 = 2.5 
 
 This will require a draft gear of 55 teeth which is shown on 
 the plan of the gearing. 
 
 Rule 2. To. find the production of the machine: Multiply 
 together the revolutions of the calender roll per minute (60), the 
 circumference of the calender roll (15.70"), the weight of the lap 
 in grains per yard (272) and the minutes run per day (600) and 
 divide the product by 7,000 (the number of grains in one pound) 
 multiplied by 36 (inches in one yard). 
 
 60 X 15.70 X 272x600 
 Example : 
 
 7,000x36 
 
 = 610.5 
 
 PULLEYS l2"X2i" 
 
 Fig. 110. Plan of Sliver Lap Machine. 
 
 From this amount should be deducted about ten per cent for time 
 lost in doffing. 
 
 An examination of the gearing will show that on the driving 
 shaft is a pinion of 29 teeth which drives the calender roll gear of 
 72 teeth. The driving pulleys thus make 2.48 revolutions to one 
 of the five inch calender rolls. The speed of the driving pulley is 
 from 125 to 250 revolutions per minute. 
 
 A plan of the sliver lap machine is shown in Fig. 110. The 
 floor space, occupied with 16 cans at the back, is 9' 0" long by 
 4' 2" wide. The driving pulleys are always on the left hand side. 
 
 171 
 
132 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 The following table gives the production of the sliver lap 
 machine per day with the lap weighing from 200 to 310 grains per 
 yard and the speed of the calender rolls from 50 to 100 revolutions 
 per minute. 
 
 SLIVER LAP MACHINE. 
 
 Production Per Day of 10 Hours, Less 10 Per Cent for Cleaning, etc. 
 
 gg 
 
 K 
 
 Weight of Lap In Grains per Yard. 
 
 fl f-H 
 
 3 3 
 
 
 fc.""^ 1 
 
 bo 
 
 tw_C _ 
 
 200 
 
 210 
 
 220 
 
 230 
 
 240 
 
 250 
 
 260 
 
 270 
 
 280 
 
 290 
 
 300 
 
 '310 
 
 o- a 
 
 "T<H E 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 > '.E 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 K 5 
 
 "3 
 
 tf 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 124 
 
 50 
 
 336 
 
 353 
 
 370 
 
 387 
 
 404 
 
 420 
 
 437 
 
 454 
 
 471 
 
 488 
 
 505 
 
 522 
 
 136 
 
 55 
 
 370 
 
 388 
 
 407 
 
 426 
 
 444 
 
 463 
 
 481 
 
 500 
 
 518 
 
 537 
 
 555 
 
 574 
 
 148 
 
 60 
 
 404 
 
 424 
 
 444 
 
 464 
 
 484 
 
 505 
 
 525 
 
 545 
 
 565 
 
 585 
 
 606 
 
 626 
 
 161 
 
 65 
 
 437 
 
 459 
 
 481 
 
 503 
 
 525 
 
 547 
 
 559 
 
 591 
 
 613 
 
 634 
 
 656 
 
 678 
 
 173 
 
 70 
 
 471 
 
 494 
 
 518 
 
 542 
 
 565 
 
 589 
 
 612 
 
 636 
 
 659 
 
 683 
 
 706 
 
 730 
 
 198 
 
 80 
 
 538 
 
 565 
 
 592 
 
 619 
 
 646 
 
 673 
 
 700 
 
 727 
 
 753 
 
 781 
 
 808 
 
 835 
 
 223 
 
 90 
 
 606 
 
 636 
 
 666 
 
 696 
 
 727 
 
 757 
 
 787 
 
 817 
 
 848 
 
 878 
 
 909 
 
 939 
 
 248 
 
 100 
 
 673 
 
 706 
 
 740 
 
 774 
 
 807 
 
 841 
 
 875 
 
 908 
 
 942 976 
 
 1010 
 
 1044 
 
 Ribbon Lapper. The ribbon lapper, which is used as an in- 
 termediate process, between the sliver lap machine and the comb, 
 is, in one sense, a drawing frame, with the exception that the fibers, 
 instead of being drawn in the form of a sliver, are spread out in 
 a sheet. 
 
 The laps are placed upon the lap rolls, side by side, at the 
 back of the machine, which is built usually to take six. The laps 
 are drawn full width between four pairs of draff rolls, having a 
 draft of about six. Passing downward around highly polished 
 plates and under calender rolls, they are brought together, one 
 above another, upon the sliver plate of the machine. This forms 
 a lap of six thicknesses, but, as each lap has been subjected to a 
 draft of about six, their combined weight is the same as was that 
 of each lap at the back of the machine. The laps are drawn 
 along the sliver plate by the calender rolls and then pass between 
 two pairs of heavily weighted calender rolls, which consolidate the 
 six laps into one sheet. This sheet now passes forward and is 
 wound upon a wooden spool by contact with two lap rolls into a 
 lap ready for combing. 
 
 172 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 The device for winding the lap is exactly the same in detail 
 as that used on the sliver lap machine. 
 
 The laps, put in at the back of the ribbon lapper, are usually 
 made about one inch less in width than those required for the 
 comb, as they spread some when passing through the draft rolls. 
 
 The ribbon lapper is provided with two stop-motions, one 
 which stops the machine immediately if a lap runs out at the back 
 and one, called a full lap stop-motion, which regulates the length 
 of the laps, so that they will all be wound to the same diameter. 
 
 Fig. Ill shows a diagram of the gearing of the ribbon lap- 
 per. The driving pulleys are 16 inches in diameter by 3 inches 
 
 12" O/A. 
 ELEVATION OF LAP ROLLS. 
 
 Fig. 111. Diagram of Gearing of Ribbon Lapper. 
 
 face and make three revolutions to one of the five inch calender 
 roll. The usual speed for the driving pulleys is from 250 to 300 
 R. P. M. 
 
 The draft of the ribbon lapper is principally between the 
 back and front rolls, but in addition, there is also a slight draft be- 
 tween the front roll and the calender rolls which is necessary to 
 draw the sliver along the- sliver plate. 
 
 The draft change gear is from 47 to 52 teeth which gives 
 a range in draft of 5.63 to 6.23. This is figured between the 
 back roll, which is 1^ inches in diameter, and the five inch calender 
 roll and can be found in the usual manner. 
 
 173 
 
134 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 The ribbon lapper occupies a floor space of 14' 2" length by 
 4' 7" width and is built both right and left hand. 
 
 For the production of the ribbon lapper, use the production 
 table for the sliver lap machine, as the calender rolls for both 
 machines are the same diameter. 
 
 Comb. After the laps have been fofmed on the sliver lap 
 machine, or the ribbon lapper, they are taken to the comb upon 
 which the actual operation of combing is carried on. The comb 
 is divided into either six or eight heads, or sections, a six-headed 
 comb being most generally used. 
 
 174 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 135 
 
 Each head is exactly like the others so that a description of 
 the movements of one answers for all and it should be understood 
 that, although the functions of one part depend closely upon those 
 of another, each movement will be considered a separate action. 
 
 Fig. 112 is a section through a comb, showing enough of the 
 principnl parts to enable its workings to be explained. 
 
 The lap is placed upon the fluted lap rolls, A and A, by 
 which it is slowly unwound. The cotton passes down a smooth 
 plate, B, and is drawn between the feed rolls, C and C. The move- 
 ment of these rolls is intermittent and is governed by the length 
 of the staple of cotton being worked and the draft of the machine. 
 
 From the feed rolls, the lap passes down between the cushion 
 plate, D, and the nipper, E 1 , which are at this particular instant 
 apart, to allow it to pass through. 
 
 When the length has been delivered by the feed rolls, their 
 movements cease and the nipper is brought into contact with the 
 cushion plate and the cotton, which is between them, is held 
 firmly. 
 
 Just beneath the cushion plate is the cylinder shaft, N, upon 
 which are the cylinders, one for each section. The cylinders are 
 made up of two parts, the fluted segment, O, and the half lap, P, 
 which are separated by a portion which is* smaller in diameter. 
 
 The surface of the fluted segment is similar to a feed roll 
 while the half lap is composed of a series of rows of needles each 
 row finer than the preceding one. The rotary motion of the cyl- 
 inders, unlike that of the feed rolls, is continuous and, as they re- 
 volve, the needles pass through that portion of the lap which 
 projects downward from between the nipper and the cushion plate 
 and removes the short fibers and neps. 
 
 Front of the nippers are the detaching rolls, E, F and G. 
 E is a steel fluted roll which is driven from one end of the comb. 
 F is a brass fluted top roll, driven by contact with E, and G is a 
 leather covered roll heavily weighted also driven by contact with 
 E. 
 
 All of these rolls have a rotary motion both backwards and 
 forwards, while F and G have in addition a slight movement, cir- 
 cumferentially, about E. The functions of these three rolls, in 
 connection with the fluted segment, are to detach the fibers, which 
 
 175 
 
136 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 have just been combed, from the mass held between the cushion 
 plate and nipper and to attach them to those which were combed, 
 previously, so as to make a continuous sliver. 
 
 After the needles have passed through the cotton, the rolls, 
 E, F and G, turn backwards a portion of a revolution so that the 
 cotton, which is between them, will be in a position to be attached, 
 or "pieced up." Meanwhile, the partial revolution of the cyl- 
 inder has brought the front edge of the fluted segment around 
 
 Fig. 113. Elevation of Feed .Roll Gearing. 
 
 against the combed fibers which are hanging from between the 
 cushion plate and nipper and as it continues to turn, they are 
 made to lie upon its surface. 
 
 At this point, the detaching rolls, which have ceased their 
 backward movement, now turn forward and the leather roll, G, 
 which during its backward movement was clear of the cylinder, 
 is moved circumferentially about the steel roll, E, until it comes 
 in contact with the fluted segment. When these surfaces touch, 
 the fibers are carried forward and are overlapped on the end of 
 
 176 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 137 
 
 those ahead and, as the forward movement of these rolls is consid- 
 erably, more than the backward, the fibers are drawn steadily 
 onward. 
 
 At the same time that the rolls commence to turn forward, 
 the top comb, H 1 , descends into the path of the cotton and the end 
 of the fibers that were between the cushion plate and the nipper 
 also receive a combing. 
 
 From the detaching rolls, the sliver is drawn forward through 
 the trumpet, L, by the calender rolls, M and M 1 , and along 
 the table with the other slivers where they pass through a draw 
 box that usually has a draft of five. From here, they pass, as 
 one^liver, through the coiler into a roving can. 
 
 The short fibers and neps are removed from the cylinder teeth 
 by a revolving brush, Q, which is placed beneath the cylinder. 
 The surface speed of the brush is slightly greater than that of the 
 cylinder and, as the bristles extend about one-eighth of an inch 
 below the points of the needles, these are thoroughly cleaned. 
 
 The fibers are removed from the brush by a slowly revolving 
 doffer, R, which is covered with very coarse card clothing, and 
 they are removed from the doffer in a thin fleece, by an ordinary 
 doffer comb, S, the cotton falling into a box below. Sometimes, 
 the comb is provided with a roll for winding the waste into a lap 
 as is done by the stripping roll on a revolving -flat card. 
 
 On each side of the cylinder and brush are covers, S ] and 
 T 1 , which prevent the fly from escaping. The brush is adjust- 
 able as the continual wear shortens the bristles very rapidly. The 
 doffer and differ comb are adjustable with respect to the brush. 
 
 Feed Plotiori. First in order, in considering the movements 
 of the comb in detail, comes the feed motion. The feed rolls are 
 driven from the main driving shaft of the comb and, as their 
 motion is intermittent while that of the driving shaft is .continu- 
 ous, a device called a pin and starwheel is used which is shown in 
 elevation in Fig. 113 and in section in Fig. 114. The cylinder 
 shaft, N, is driven from the driving shaft, A 1 , by the pinion, C 1 * 
 and the gear, D. Around the hub of the gear is an adjustable 
 plate, E' 2 , which carries the pin, F 1 . Upon one end of the stud, 
 G 1 , is the five-toothed starwheel, H 2 , and upon the other, the draft 
 change gear, D 2 , which ranges from fourteen to twent}* teeth. 
 
 177 
 
138 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 Running with the draft gear is another gear, J 2 , of thirty- 
 eight teeth. This is keyed to the end of the bottom feed roll, C, 
 any movement given to the star wheel would thus be communi- 
 cated to -the feed rolls. 
 
 During a portion of each revolution of the cylinder shaft, the 
 pin, F 1 , which describes a circle of about five inches in diameter, 
 engages one of the teeth of the starwheel, causing it to turn one- 
 fifth of a revolution, when it remains stationary until it is advanced 
 another tooth by the pin at the next revolution of the cylinder. 
 
 ROLJ. 
 
 38 TEETH 
 
 TIMING DIAL. 
 Fig. 114. Section of Feed Roll Gearing. 
 
 To prevent any movement of the starwheel, while it is not being 
 acted upon, the face of its teeth are made concentric with the 
 plate, E 2 , on the hub of the gear, D, with which it is in contact. 
 
 The movement of the feed roll, at each revolution of the 
 cylinder shaft, is very slight. The largest draft gear (twenty 
 teeth) will cause the feed roll, which is three-fourths of an inch in 
 diameter, to deliver only about one-quarter of an inch of cotton. 
 
 The lap rolls, upon which the lap rests, are also given an 
 intermittent motion, corresponding to that of the feed rolls, and 
 are driven at one end of the comb from the bottom feed roll. 
 
 Timing Dial. All of the various parts of the comb are 
 tiined to operate in regular order and, as each part is dependent 
 
 178 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 139 
 
 upon the others, any great variation from the proper timing will 
 cause bad work and is liable to injure the combs and needles. 
 
 The parts are set by the index, or timing dial, which is on 
 the head end/of the cylinder shaft and ishown in the section of 
 the feed roll gearing and in the diagram of the nipper cam, Fig. 
 120. 
 
 /^^^^ 
 
 Figures 115 and 116. Nipper Cam and Levers. 
 
 The dial is divided into twenty parts, numbered 1 to 20, 
 each part being subdivided into quarters. Above the dial is an 
 index finger, fastened to the comb frame. In setting, the driving 
 shaft is turned by hand until the index finger points to the proper 
 figure. The feed rolls are usually timed to commence turning 
 at 41. 
 
 179 
 
140 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 Nipper and Cushion Plate. Fig. 115 shows the cam and 
 levers for operating the nipper and cushion plate and Fig. 116 
 shows the parts detached from the cam. 
 
 The cushion plate, I), is generally of steel with a dull- 
 pointed edge and the nipper knife, E 1 , also of steel, is recessed to 
 receive a cushion of leather or rubber. This cushion prevents 
 the fibers from becoming cut, or otherwise injured, when the cot- 
 
 ton is gripped between the 
 cushion plate and nipper. 
 
 Both the cushion plate 
 and the nipper are carried by 
 a cradle, F 2 , which has a 
 slight r o c k i n g movement 
 around its fulcrum, Z. The 
 nipper arm, N 2 , is also hung 
 upon a fulcrum on the cradle 
 at V. In the upright cradle 
 arm, P-, is the nipper set- 
 ting screw, P 1 , which bears 
 against a stop, formed by 
 the frame of the machine. 
 The cradle is held in its nor- 
 mal position, which is with 
 the screw bearing against the 
 
 Fig. 117. Section showing Nipper and - s 'top, by a strong spring, L 3 , 
 Cushion Plate. one end of whjch is f astened 
 
 to a horn on the cradle, the other to the frame of the comb. 
 
 The connection to the nipper cam, T, by which the nipper 
 and cushion plate are caused to open and close, is by means of the 
 upright rod, L 1 , the horizontal nipper shaft lever, J 1 , and the 
 nipper cam lever, J 3 . The last named carries a roll, J 4 , that runs 
 in a groove, T 5 , in the face of the nipper cam. 
 
 The nipper cam lever, J 3 , is made in two parts which enables 
 a very fine adjustment to be made by means of the screws, T 4 and 
 T 6 . The part carrying the screws is keyed to the nipper shaft, 
 J. This shaft runs the whole length of the machine, and to it 
 are also keyed the horizontal nipper shaft levers, J 1 , which con- 
 nect with the back end of the nipper arms, N 2 , by the upright 
 
 180 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 141 
 
 rods, L 1 . The nipper cam makes one revolution to one of the 
 cylinder and, at each revolution, the opening and closing of 
 tlie nipper and cushion plate takes place which corresponds to the 
 movements of the cylinder. 
 
 To follow these movements, Figs. 117, 118, 119 and 120 
 have been made. Figs. 117 to 119 are sections showing the dif- 
 ferent positions of the nipper and cushion plate in relation to the 
 
 Fig. 118. Fig. 119. 
 
 Sections showing Nipper and Cushion Plate. 
 
 fluted segment and half lap. Fig. 120 is a diagram of the nipper 
 cam showing certain points which correspond to the figures on 
 the timing dial. 
 
 In Fig. 117, it is assumed that the needles have finished 
 combing and the nipper and cushion plate are open to allow the 
 fibers to be drawn forward by the fluted segment The opening 
 movement commences at about 3J by the timing dial. The front 
 edge of the fluted .segment comes against the fibers and is about 
 half by when the nipper and cushion plate are wide open which is 
 at 61. . 
 
 By referring to the diagram of the nipper cam (Fig. 120), it 
 will be seen that the point marked GI is just at the cam roll and 
 the index finger points midway between 6 and 7 on the dial. As 
 
 181 
 
142 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 the cam continues to turn, the nipper cam lever, J 3 , is depressed 
 owing to the shape of the groove in which the cam roll, T 4 , runs. 
 This depression causes the nipper shaft, J, to turn slightly and an 
 upward movement of the rod, L 1 , takes place through the nipper 
 shaft lever, J 1 . 
 
 The upward movement of the rod, L 1 , causes the nipper 
 arm, N 2 , to turn about its fulcrum at V which brings the nipper 
 
 Fig. 120. Diagram of Nipper Cam. 
 
 knife into contact with the cushion plate, gripping the cotton 
 firmly. This takes place when the dial is at 9| and the parts are 
 in the position shown in Fig. 118. 
 
 The back edge of the fluted segment has passed by the front 
 of the cushion plate and this brings that portion of the cylinder, 
 which is smaller in diameter than the segment and half lap, just 
 beneath the cushion plate and nipper and permits the end of the 
 lap, which is held suspended between them, to assume a position 
 so that the needles of the half lap may thoroughly comb the mass 
 of cotton. 
 
 182 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 143 
 
 We have seen in Figs. 117 and 118, that the movement of 
 the nipper arm, N 2 , is simply around its fulcrum, V, but, as the 
 nipper cam continues to revolve, the nipper cam lever is moved 
 away from the center of the cam, causing a still greater depression 
 of the nipper knife. It is evident that it must bear with consid- 
 erable more force against the cushion plate. This pressure 
 causes the spring, L 3 , to yield and the cradle to move slightly 
 around its fulcrum, Z, as shown by the position of the parts in 
 Fig. 119. 
 
 Fig. 121. Fig. 122. 
 
 Sections showing Detaching Rolls and Cylinder. 
 
 This double motion of the nipper knife, first around its own 
 fulcrum and then around the fulcrum of the cradle, brings the 
 cotton down near the needles just previous to the commencement 
 of the combing action. This occurs when the timing dial is at 
 about 12, the parts remaining in the position until all of the 
 needles have passed through this cotton which is at about 20. 
 The nipper and cushion plate then commence to raise, from the 
 cylinder, into a position so that the cotton may be detached and 
 they then open and the cycle of movements is repeated. 
 
 Detaching Roll fiction. Following in regular order, the next 
 feature, and one which requires considerable explanation, is the 
 detaching roll motion, by which the fibers are detached from be- 
 
 183 
 
144 
 
 .COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 tween the nipper and cushion plate and attached to those fibers 
 that have already been combed at a previous operation, as referred 
 to in the general description of the comb. 
 
 It will be less confusing to first follow the movements of the 
 detaching rolls and then the mechanism for obtaining these move- 
 ments. Fig. 121 shows the rolls in stationary position with the 
 end of the sliver protruding from between the leather covered de- 
 taching roll, G, and the steel detaching roll, E, in the position it 
 was left when the rolls ceased their forward rotary motion. The 
 
 Fig. 123. Fig. 124. 
 
 Sections showing Detaching Rolls and Cylinder. 
 
 leather covered roll is raised to its highest position above the 
 path of the fluted segment, O. 
 
 The first movement of the detaching rolls is to turn back- 
 wards to the position shown by the parts in Fig. 122. This move- 
 ment occurs just after the needles have finished combing, and is 
 sufficient to turn the sliver, which is shown hanging downwards in 
 the space between the fluted segment and half lap, back about one 
 and one-half inches. The front edge of the fluted segment is just 
 coming into contact with the fibers which are hanging from be- 
 tween the nipper, E 1 , and the cushion plate, D, and the leather 
 detaching roll has started to move around the steel roll in the 
 direction of the nipper. 
 
 Fig. 123 shows the rolls at the commencement of the forward 
 
 184 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 145 
 
 movement. The fluted segment has continued to revolve and its 
 front edge has swept along under the down hanging fibers which 
 are to be detached. This action causes them to lie on the surface 
 of the fluted segment and extended in the direction of the leather 
 covered roll which has moved around the steel roll into contact 
 with the fluted segment. The instant that these surfaces touch, 
 the detaching rolls commence to turn forward and the fibers, lying 
 on the surface of the fluted segment, are drawn forward between 
 it and the leather covered roll. 
 
 The finish of the forward movement of the rolls is shown in 
 Fig. 124. The front end of the fibers, between the fluted segment 
 and the leather covered roll, are over-lapped on the top of those 
 that were turned backward. The continued forward movement, 
 which is about two and one-half inches, draws them upward be- 
 tween the rolls, G and E, and F and E, until their back end is in 
 the same position as shown in Fig. 121. The pressure of the 
 leather covered roll on the steel roll incorporates the newly combed 
 fibers with those that were turned back. 
 
 The roll, G, moves around the roll, E, so that its surface is 
 raised from contact with the fluted segment. The rolls all cease 
 their forward movement an-d remain stationary, until the next revo- 
 lution of the cylinder, when the operation of detaching, and piecing- 
 up is repeated. The approximate gain in the distance the sliver 
 is moved forward is one inch. 
 
 It would seem on closely studying Figs. 123 and 124 that the 
 end of the sliver, which was turned back for piecing-up, would be 
 rolled up between the roll, E, and the. fluted segment, O, particu- 
 larly as these surfaces turn in opposite directions, while O is 
 passing E, but this cannot happen as there is a space of about 
 one-sixteenth of an inch between them and the sliver simply 
 touches lightly against the surface of O, as it is drawn upward 
 between E and G. 
 
 Top Comb. At this point, reference should be made to the 
 movements of the top comb, H 1 , which are connected closely with 
 the movements of the detaching rolls. When the fibers are being 
 combed by the needles, it is evident that the end, held between 
 the nipper and cushion plate, can receive no combing but as they 
 are liberated by the opening of the nipper and are carried forward 
 
 185 
 
146 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 for pieckig-up, the top comb, H 1 , descends into the path of the 
 cotton and it receives combing by being drawn through the teeth 
 as shown by the position of the comb in Fig. 123. It is then 
 quickly withdrawn and remains up> clear of the fibers, until the 
 movements of the detaching rolls are repeated. 
 
 Fig. 125. Elevation Showing Detaching Roll Cams. 
 
 Detaching Roll Cams. To obtain the various movements of 
 the detaching rolls, three cams are employed; those which impart 
 rotary motion to all of the rolls are shown in Figs. 125 to 130 in- 
 clusive and the lifting cam which causes the rolls, F and G, to move 
 around E is shown in Fig. 131. 
 
 Reference should be made first to Figs. 125 and 126 which 
 show respectively the extreme forward and backward positions of 
 
 186 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 the detaching roll cam lever. On the cam shaft, W, is keyed a 
 cam, B 1 , in one side of which is a groove, B 2 . In this groove 
 runs a roll, T 2 , which is carried by the detaching roll cam lever, 
 S 2 , the shaft, M 2 , acting as a center around which, S 2 ,is free to 
 turn. Upon this same shaft are fastened a wheel, U, having 
 
 Fig. 126. Elevation Showing Detaching Roll Cams. 
 
 twenty teeth, or notches, and an internal gear, C 2 , of 138 teeth. 
 A pawl, O 1 , which is fastened to a stud, K 2 , and which is carried 
 by the upper end of the detaching roll cam lever, engages in the 
 notches of the notched wheel and is held in contact with them by 
 a spring, F 3 , while the internal gear is in contact with the pinion, 
 L 2 , of eighteen teeth, which is fast on one end of the detaching 
 roll, E. 
 
 1ST 
 
148 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 As the cam- revolves, the shape of the groove in it is such as 
 to cause the pawl to move back and forth. The sides of the 
 notches are square which permits the pawl to engage with them in 
 either direction. This motion is communicated to the roll, E, by 
 the notched wheel, the internal gear and the pinion causing it to 
 rotate forward and backward. 
 
 By examining the drawings, it will be seen that on the side 
 opposite from the groove in the cam, B 1 , is another cam, A 2 , on 
 
 Fig. 127. Fig. 128. 
 
 Diagrams of Detaching Koll Cams. 
 
 the periphery of which runs a roll, X, which is fastened to the lower 
 end of the arm, Y. The other end of the arm is fastened to the 
 same stud as the pawl, O 1 . This cam simply acts on the pawl, 
 moving it in and out of contact with the notched wheel at the 
 proper time. 
 
 The next four drawings Figures, 127, 128, 129 and 180, show 
 the positions at different stages. All the parts, not absolutely 
 essential to explain these movements, are omitted. Fig. 127 
 shows the position of the cams after the detaching rolls have fin- 
 ished turning forward. The cam roll, T 2 , is on the largest diame- 
 ter of the cam which is indicated by the letter, A. The nose of 
 the cam, A 2 , has just come into contact with the roll, X, which 
 
 188 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 149 
 
 has lifted the pawl, O 1 , out of the notch in the notched wheel, 
 marked by the numeral, II. 
 
 Fig. 128 shows the cams as having made about one-half of 
 a revolution. This movement has advanced the cam roll from A 
 to B and has caused the pawl to move from above notch II to III 
 while the gradually decreasing diameter of the cam, A 2 , has caused 
 the cam roll, X, to drop and allow the spring, F 3 , to draw the 
 pawl into notch III. But it will be noticed that as yet no move- 
 ments of the detaching rolls has taken place. 
 
 Fig. 129. Fig. 130. 
 
 Diagrams of Detaching Roll Cams. 
 
 In Fig. 129, the cams are shown as having completed about 
 three-quarters of a revolution. The cam roll, T 2 , is on the smallest 
 diameter of the groove at C. The pawl, which is shown just en- 
 tering notch III in Fig. 128, has engaged the whole depth of it 
 and the continued revolution of the cams has turned the notched 
 wheel to its extreme backward position, as indicated by the arrow. 
 This movement through the internal gear, C 2 , and the pinion, L 2 , 
 rotates the steel detaching roll, E, and turns back about one and 
 one-half inches of sliver. The distance moved by the internal gear 
 is shown by the relativ e positions of a dark spot marked upon the 
 gears in Figs. 127, 128 and 129. 
 
 189 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 The completion of the revolution of the cams is shown in 
 Fig. 130. The cam roll has moved from C back to A and the 
 nose of the cam, A 2 , has come into contact with the cam roll, X. 
 This action lifts the paAvl out of notch III, the parts remaining in 
 the same relative positions as in Fig. 127, except that the notched 
 wheel lias advanced one notch, and at the next revolution of the 
 
 Fig. 131. Elevation showing Lifting Cam. 
 
 cam, the pawl will drop into notch IV. The point, marked by the 
 dark spot, has advanced in the same proportion as the notched 
 wheel, as will be seen by its position above the pinion. 
 
 The detaching rolls turn backwards at about 1| by the tim- 
 ing dial and continue until about 6. The forward movement then 
 commences and continues until about 11. 
 
 Pig. 131 shows the device for moving the leather covered de- 
 taching roll in and out of contact with the fluted segment. 
 
 190 
 
COTTON SPINNING. lf>l 
 
 On the cam shaft, W, is fastened the lifting cam, H 3 , with a 
 groove, A 3 , cut in its face. In this groove runs a roll, C 3 , which 
 is carried in one end of the lifting cam lever which is made in two 
 parts, E 3 and E 4 . The part, E 3 , which carries the cam roll, is in 
 reality loose on the lifting shaft, K, while the part, E 4 , is keyed 
 to K. The two parts are connected by the adjusting screws, D 3 
 andD 4 , which are screwed through lugs on E 4 and bear against 
 the sides of E 3 . This permits a very close adjustment to be made 
 when setting the parts. The lifting shaft, K, extends the whole 
 length of the comb and upon it are fastened the lifting shaft arms, 
 K 1 , which are connected to the top lifting lever, F 4 , by the up- 
 right arms, N 1 . 
 
 On the back end of F 4 is a block, B 3 , which bears against 
 the bushing, K 3 , on the end of the roll, G. These bushings are 
 made square on the outside so as to give ample wearing surface 
 against the 'blocks. A set screw, G 2 , in the end of F 4 , bears 
 against the block which allows for adjustment. A weight, not 
 shown in the drawing but connected to the stirrup, N 3 , by a 
 chain, holds the bushing firmly against the block. It also 
 keeps the roll, G, in contact with the steel roll, E, and the fluted 
 segment. 
 
 The drawing shows the position of the cam and* parts with 
 the roll, G, in contact with the fluted segment, the outlines of 
 which are shown by dotted lines. As the cam revolves, the 
 groove in its face causes the roll, C 3 , to move from the position it 
 is in towards the center of the cam to a point marked B, as shown 
 by dotted lines. This movement causes the roll, G, to move 
 around the roll, E, out of contact with the fluted segment. The 
 cam roll continues on the small diameter of the groove until it is 
 moved out at the next revolution. 
 
 Top Comb notion. Fig. 132 shows the eccentric for opera- 
 ting the top combs. These combs, H 1 , are carried by the comb 
 arms, M 3 , which are centered on the top comb shaft, N 3 , at one 
 end of which is an arm, W 1 , which carries a roll, S 3 . This roll 
 runs on an eccentric, O 2 , which is fastened on the cylinder shaft, 
 N. At each of the comb arms is a dog, N 4 , which is fastened to 
 the top comb shaft and through a lug on the dog is a set screw, 
 W 2 , which bears against the comb arms. The arms are thus 
 
 191 
 
152 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 free to be turned up out of the way for cleaning or repairing the 
 needles. As the eccentric turns, the top comb shaft is turned 
 slightly and the combs put in and out of contact with the cotton. 
 Timing and Setting. The successful working of the comb 
 depends almost wholly upon the timing and setting of the various 
 parts so that one movement will follow another at the proper time. 
 These can be varied, slightly, according to the length and quality 
 
 vv 
 
 Fig. 132. Top Comb Eccentric. 
 
 of the cotton being used and the judgment of the one in charge of 
 such work. The following are average timings and settings : 
 
 To set the cylinder: Turn the cylinder shaft around until 
 number 5 on the timing dial comes beneath the index finger, then 
 set the front edge of the fluted segment from the flutes of the 
 steel detaching roll with 1^-inch gauge and tighten the cylinders 
 on the shaft. 
 
 To set the feed roll: Use li|-inch gauge between the flutes 
 of the steel detaching roll and flutes of the feed roll, then tighten 
 feed roll slides into place. 
 
 To set the cushion plates to the nipper knives : Put the cushion 
 plate in place and set it up against the nipper knife with one 
 
 102 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 thickness of ordinary writing paper between it at each end. Press 
 the nipper firmly against the cushion plate and see that each piece 
 of paper is held securely. This sets the cushion plate parallelly 
 with the nipper knife. 
 
 To set the cushion plates from the steel detaching roll : Use 
 l|-inch gauge between the lip of the plate and the flutes of the 
 detaching roll. 
 
 To set the nipper knives from the fluted segments : First dis- 
 connect the upright rods, L 1 , and use number 20 gauge between 
 the edge of nipper knife and segment. The nipper stop screw, P 1 , 
 must project through the arm about one-quarter of an inch and a 
 i-inch gauge must be placed between the point of the screw and 
 the nipper stand. After setting the right-hand screw, remove the 
 gauge and bring the left-hand screw up against the nipper stand. 
 Ne"xt put a strip of writing paper between the point of each screw 
 and stand and see that it draws with the same tension from each. 
 The cylinder shaft should now be turned around until number 17 
 on the dial is under the pointer; the cam roll will then be on the 
 largest diameter of the nipper cam. Put on the right-hand con- 
 necting rod and spring, try ] inch gauge between the nipper 
 screw and stand, and adjust the nuts on the upright rod until the 
 gauge will draw out with ease. After this, put on the left-hand rod 
 and spring and have the gauge draw out with the same tension. 
 Turn the cam back to the first position and try number 20 gauge, 
 between the nipper knife and the half-lap, and see that everything 
 is free. 
 
 To set the leather detaching rolls: Turn the cylinder shaft 
 around until the dial is at 6|, then put the rolls in position with 
 the end bushings on and attach weights. Let the rolls rest against 
 the fluted segment. Use number 23 gauge between the lifter 
 block and bushing of roll. Set the right-hand side of one roll 
 first; then turn the detaching roll cam around so as to bring the 
 block up against the gauge. Next try the gauge between all of 
 the other blocks and bushings and set the blocks up so that the 
 gauge will draw from each with the same tension and tighten 
 blocks in place. Put a strip of writing paper between the fluted 
 segment and the leather detaching rolls at each end and adjust 
 the cam lever so that the rolls will touch the segments at G|. 
 
 193 
 
154 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 To time the nippers : Turn the cylinder shaft around until 
 9 1 comes under the pointer. Loosen the nipper cam and turn it 
 around until the nipper stop screws leave the stands at 9| then 
 make nipper cam fast on the shaft. 
 
 To set the top combs to the leather detaching rolls: Remove 
 the end bushings from the leather roll and put ^ inch gauge 
 between it and the steel roll and have it touch, lightly, against 
 the top comb, which should be inclined about thirty degrees, then 
 remove the gauge from between the rolls and see that the leather 
 roll is free from the comb. 
 
 To set the top combs to the fluted segments : Use number 20 
 gauge between the points of the comb needles and the segment. 
 Set the comb by the stop screws with a strip of paper under each 
 which should draw out with the same tension. Loosen the top 
 comb eccentric and turn it around until the throw is downward 
 and wedge the eccentric arm in place. Turn all the stop screws 
 against the top comb arms and set each witli a strip of paper. 
 After setting all the combs, turn the shaft around to number 5 on 
 the dial and set the top comb eccentric so that a strip of paper 
 will not draw from between the nipper stop screw and stand. 
 
 To time the feed rolls: Turn the cylinder shaft around until 
 the dial shows 4- under the pointer, then set the pin so that the, 
 feed rolls will start forward. 
 
 To time the detaching rolls : Turn the cylinder shaft around 
 until the dial is at 6, then set the detaching roll cam so that the 
 rolls will start to turn forward. The brass top rolls should be 
 set from the leather rolls with number 21 gauge and their flutes 
 should be in mesh with the flutes of the steel roll. 
 
 Owing to the naturally irregular disposition of cotton fibers, 
 it is impossible to remove the waste without removing more or 
 less long fibers, rior can the percentage of waste be known until 
 after the cotton has been combed, as some varieties are much cleaner 
 than others and contain fewer short fibers. The amount of waste 
 is often increased by the faulty timing and setting of the parts. 
 
 There are various ways of controlling the amount of waste. 
 In the top comb, the dropping varies from 4| to 6|-. If dropped 
 .at 4}. more waste is combed out, as the comb needles enter the 
 lap before it is drawn forward by the detaching rolls, while if 
 
 194 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 dropped at 6i, they do not enter the lap until after it has started, 
 consequently some of the fibers escape combing. 
 
 The angle of the top comb and its distance from the fluted 
 segment also control the amount of waste. The comb needles, 
 which act as hooks upon which the fibers are caught, enter the 
 lap at about right angles to the direction that it is drawn. Now 
 it is evident, that the more acute this angle the greater is the 
 retaining power, so that more waste will be removed. The nearer 
 the needles are allowed to approach the fluted segment, the more 
 they penetrate the mass of cotton, thus giving it a more thorough 
 combing. 
 
 The time of starting the feed rolls varies from 4 to 6 ; if 
 started at 6 more waste will be made than if started at 4, as the 
 later the feed rolls start, the more the lap is liable to curl and not 
 pass freely between the nipper and cushion plate. Curling causes 
 the lap to bunch in places and when these bunches are acted upon 
 by the cylinder needles, more of the long fibers are combed out 
 than would be the case if the lap were perfectly smooth and even. 
 
 The closing of the nippers take.s place from 9 to 10. If closed 
 at 10 more waste is made than at 9. The reason for this is very 
 apparent. If the nipper does not close until the comb needles 
 have commenced to work, the cotton will draw from between the 
 nipper and cushion plate. This late closing, as it is called, should 
 be avoided, as many of the long fibers will be combed out with the 
 waste which would otherwise be carried forward with the sliver. 
 
 The leather detaching roll is brought into contact with the 
 fluted segment at 6|. If brought into contact before 6| more 
 waste is made. 
 
 The length of time the leather detaching roll is allowed to 
 remain in contact with the fluted segment also controls the waste. 
 A number 25 gauge, used between the lifter blocks and the 
 bushings of the leather roll, will give more waste than a number 
 21 gauge, as it is thinner and allows the leather roll to remain in 
 contact with the fluted segment longer. 
 
 The leather detaching roll starts to turn forward at 6. If 
 started before this, more waste is made than if started after, as 
 the forward rotary movement of the roll together with the rotary 
 movement of the fluted segment detaches the cotton from between 
 
 195 
 
156 
 
 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 196 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 157 
 
 the nipper and cushion plate, and, if this movement commences 
 before the nipper is opened sufficiently to allow the cotton to be 
 drawn forward, the fibers are broken. 
 
 Gearing. In order to work, out the various calculations, a 
 diagram of the comber gearing is given in Fig. 133. The usual 
 speed of the driving pulleys, which are twelve inches in diameter by 
 three inches face, is about 300 revolutions per minute. On the outer 
 end of the driving shaft is a heavy balance wheel, which serves a 
 double purpose, namely, to enable the cylinder shaft to be turned 
 readily when setting the various parts and to prevent any fluctua- 
 tions in the speed of the comb, as the cylinder shaft turns much 
 harder while the needles are passing through the cotton than at 
 any other time. Were it not for this balance wheel, the comb 
 would run with considerable vibration, which tends to loosen the 
 screws and bolts, as well as to disturb the settings. 
 
 On the inside end of the driving shaft is a gear of 21 teeth, 
 in gear with one of 80 teeth which is fastened to the cylinder 
 shaft. The speed of the cylinders is therefore about 78 revolutions 
 or nips per minute. 
 
 The feed roll, which is | of an inch in diameter, is driven 
 from the cylinder shaft by a pin and a star-wheel having 5 teeth. 
 On the same stud as the star-wheel is the draft or change gear, D, 
 of from 14 to 20 teeth, by which the feed is regulated. 
 
 The calender rolls in front of the cylinders are driven from 
 the cylinder shaft by a gear of 80 teeth which drives a similar 
 gear of the same number of teeth. On the shaft with the latter is 
 another gear of 19 teeth, which drives one of 142 teeth, which is 
 upon the calender roll shaft. 
 
 The draft rolls are driven from the foot end of the cylinder 
 shaft by a gear of 25 teeth, which drives another of 25 teeth. 
 On this same shaft are two gears, one of 16 teeth, which drives 
 the back roll through an intermediate of 64 teeth and one of 46 
 teeth which is upon the back roll. 
 
 The front roll is driven from the gear of 50 teeth, through 
 the double intermediate of 45 teeth and the gear of 37 teeth. 
 The calender roll in front of the draft rolls is driven from the other 
 end of the front roll by the gears of 20, 80 and 43 teeth. The mid- 
 dle roll is driven from the back roll by the gears of 29,30 and 25 teeth. 
 
158 COTTON SPINNING. 
 
 The coiler is also driven from the cylinder shaft, through the 
 gears of 53, 90, 21 and 16 teeth, the last being upon the upright 
 shaft in the coiler. At the top of this shaft is a gear of 24 .teeth, 
 driving an 18 toothed gear which is upon the calender roll. 
 
 The lap rolls are driven from the feed roll by the gears of 23, 
 22, 20, 55, 35 and 47 teeth, The first and last mentioned are 
 upon the feed roll and lap roll respectively, and, as the motion of 
 the feed roll is intermittent, the lap rolls receive a corresponding 
 movement. 
 
 The doffer is driven by a single worm and worm gear of 32 
 teeth and a bevel gear of 25 teeth, from the same gear which drives 
 the draft rolls. The brush and the doffer comb are driven from 
 the driving shaft, the brush by the gears of 28, 35 and 30 teeth 
 and the comb by a connecting rod, one end of which is fastened to 
 an arm on the cam shaft and the other working on a pin set eccen- 
 trically in the 28 toothed gear on the driving shaft. By this 
 means, the comb is given an oscillating motion. 
 
 Calculations. The production of the comb is governed by 
 the weight of the laps per yard, the number of revolutions that 
 the cylinder makes per minute, the draft of the comb and the 
 amount of waste. A glance at the diagram of the gearing will 
 show that the calender rolls in the coiler are the last through 
 which the sliver passes, and the length delivered by them at each 
 revolution of the cylinder should be taken into account in figuring 
 the production. These rolls are 1 j* inches in diameter and make 
 1.03 revolutions to one of the cylinder, which gives a delivery of 
 5.3 inches for each revolution. 
 
 Following are the principal calculations for the comb. 
 
 Rule 1. To find the production of the comb in pounds: 
 Multiply together the number of revolution of the cylinder per 
 minute (80), the number of inches of sliver delivered at each 
 revolution (5.3), the weight in grains of one yard of lap, less the 
 percentage of waste (212.5), the number of laps (6) and the 
 number of minutes run per day, less 10 per cent for time lost in 
 cleaning (540). Divide the product by 7,000 (the number of 
 grains in one pound), multiplied by 36 (the number of inches in 
 a yard) and by the draft of the comb (24.47).- 
 80 X 5.3 X 212.5 x 6 X 540 
 
 7000 X 36 X 24.47 
 
 198 
 
 = 47 ' 34 
 
COTTON SPINNING. 159 
 
 In this example, the weight of the laps is given as 212.5 
 grains, or 250 grains less 15 per cent for waste which is a fair 
 average. 
 
 Rule 2. To find the draft of the comb between the calender 
 rolls in the coiler and the feed rolls : Multiply together the driv- 
 ing gears and the diameter of the coiler calender rolls and divide 
 the product by the product of the driven gears multiplied together 
 with the diameter of the feed roll. (The driving gears- are C, E, 
 G, I and K, and the driven gears are D, draft gear 18 teeth, F, H, 
 J and L.) To avoid fractions, the diameter of the feed roll, which 
 is | of an inch -can be called 12 as there are i| in | of an inch 
 and the diameter of the coiler calender rolls, which is 111 inches, 
 can be called 27. 
 
 38 X o X 53 X 21 X 24 X 27 
 Example: 18 X 1X90 X 1(3X18 X 12 : 
 Rule 3. To find the draft factor: Proceed as in rule 2 but 
 omit the draft change gear D. 
 
 Rule 4. To find the draft : Divide the factor bv the number 
 of teeth in the draft gear (1 8). 
 
 Example: 440.53-^-18 = 24.47. 
 
 199 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 PART IV 
 
 DRAWING 
 
 In all the processes previously described, except when comb- 
 ing was introduced before drawing, the principal object has been 
 to free the cotton from as much foreign substance as possible, and 
 no attempt has been made to form a thread. When the sliver 
 leaves the card, the fibers are in a very irregular and confused 
 mass and it is evident that "the fibers 'must be straightened and 
 parallelized to reduce the sliver to a thread. 
 
 The object of the drawing process is threefold: To make the 
 fibers lie in parallel order, to make the sliver as even in weight as 
 possible by doubling a certain number at the back of the machine, 
 and to reduce the weight of the sliver, if necessary, by a certain 
 amount of draft. 
 
 Drawing is carried out on two distinct types of machine, the 
 Railway Head and the Drawing Frame. 
 
 RAILWAY HEAD 
 
 Originally, the railway head was used in connection with the 
 stationary fiat card as the first drawing process, which was fol- 
 lowed by a second and, usually, a third process in which the draw- 
 ing frame was used. With the general adoption of the revolving 
 fiat card the railway head is gradually falling into disuse, but as 
 many of the older mills are still equipped with them and as they 
 are found, occasionally, in operation in some of the most recently 
 constructed mills, it seems fitting that a brief description of the 
 operations and arrangement of .the machine and its connection 
 with the stationary flat card shall be given. 
 
 Fig. 134 shows in plan two lines of stationary flat cards with 
 a railway head at the end of each line. The slivers, from the cal- 
 ende~ rolls of the cards in each line, are delivered into a railway 
 trough or box, and on to an endless belt and are carried to the 
 head end of the trough. Here they pass between a pair of rolls 
 
 201 
 
102 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 and are drawn between guides and passed between the draft rolls 
 of the railway head into a can which is then taken to the back of 
 the drawing frame. 
 
 The railway head is built both single and double. A single 
 head, or delivery, is designed to take care of the slivers from six to 
 
 Fig. 134. Plan of Two Single Lines of Cards. 
 
 twelve cards. In the illustration (Fig. 134) there are eight cards 
 in each line, delivering into one single railway head. 
 
 In most cases two single, or one double, railway heads are 
 used with a double line of railway troughs, placed as shown in 
 Fig. 135. This illustration shows two sections of seven cards in 
 each line, delivering into separate boxes. 
 
 The doffers are driven from the railway head to which they 
 are connected by feed shafts, running parallel to the troughs, and 
 with the stopping of the railway head, the delivery from the cards 
 
 nnn 
 
 D p p ; 
 
 I L I p D I I; B p 
 
 O O 
 
 Fig. 135. Plan of Two Double Lines of Cards. 
 
 also must cease. This brings about a condition for which the rail- 
 way head was primarily designed and which needs considerable 
 explanation. 
 
 As the cards require grinding periodically, it is evident that 
 one card at a time must be stopped. This reduces the number of 
 ends, or slivers, entering the railway head, and causes a correspond- 
 ing reduction in the weight of the sliver delivered. That is, if there 
 are eight cards, each delivering a fifty grain sliver, we shall have 
 four hundred grains entering the back of the railway head and 
 

 Q 2 
 
 Of 
 M 
 
 H 
 
 z 
 
 3 
 
 u 
 
 < 
 
 s 
 
 a* 
 <: 
 
 S5 
 
 O 
 03 
 03 
 
COTTON- SPINNING 
 
 with a draft of eight the sliver delivered at the front will weigh 
 fifty grains: 
 
 8 X 50 
 
 ' e = 
 
 o 
 
 Now, if we drop out one sliver, we will have three hundred and 
 
 Fig. 136. Section of Railway Head Showing Evener. 
 
 fifty grains only, entering the railway head and with the same 
 draft the delivered sliver will weigh 43.75 grains: 
 
 7X50 
 
 -FT =43 - 7;j 
 
 To overcome this difficulty, the railway head is provided with an 
 3vener motion which is shown in Fig. 136. 
 
 Evener Motion. The sliver from the railway troughs passes 
 between the draft rolls, D, C, B, and A and then through the 
 
 203 
 
104 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 trumpet, E, and between the calender rolls, F and G. The speed 
 of the back roll, D, is constant as a certain relation must be main- 
 tained between it and the speed of the card calender rolls, and to 
 increase or decrease the weight of the sliver, the speed of the front 
 roll must be changed. 
 
 The front roll is driven through a pair of cones, O and P, by 
 a belt, S. P is the driver, running at a constant speed, and drives 
 the back roll gearing. The speed of O is changed according to the 
 
 60 
 S fc BACK. ROLL 
 
 3 5"DIA. 
 
 CALENDER ROLL ^H 
 
 Fig. 137. Gearing Connecting Cards with Railway Head 
 
 position of the cone belt . If the sliver is too heavy, the front roll 
 must run faster to increase the draft and reduce the weight, while 
 if it is too light, a corresponding decrease in the speed must take 
 place. 
 
 The cone belt, S, passes through a guide, T, which is mount- 
 ed upon the screw, L. Fast upon one end of the screw is a gear, 
 M, while loose upon the same end is a shield, K, and a pair of 
 pawls, N and R. The pawls are given a reciprocal motion by the 
 eccentric, U, and arm, V, and the shield is connected to the trum- 
 pet by the rod, H, and the lever, J. 
 
 204 
 
COTTON SPINNING 165 
 
 The trumpet is balanced so that when the sliver is at its nor- 
 mal size, the shield, K, prevents either pawl from engaging the 
 teeth of the gear, M. But should there be a thin place, from an 
 end being out or from any cause, the trumpet will faU back im- 
 mediately and, through the connections, allow the pawl, N, to en- 
 gage the teeth of the gear. This turns the screw and moves the 
 cone belt towards the large end of the driven cone, O, making a re- 
 duction in the speed of the front roll and a corresponding reduc- 
 tion in the draft, which will continue until the light portion of 
 sliver has passed through the hole in the trumpet. 
 
 If the sliver is too heavy, the reverse action of the parts de- 
 scribed takes place and the speed of the front roll is increased. 
 
 The action of the evener depends wholly upon the friction of 
 the sliver in passing through the hole in the trumpet and, while 
 no great change takes place in the weight of the cotton entering 
 the back of the railway head, unless an end is out, the thick and 
 thin places in the sliver keep the trumpet moving back and forth 
 continually .changing, to a slight extent, the speed of the front roll. 
 
 The defect in the evener motion is very apparent. As the 
 evener is so slow in its movements, a considerable- length of sliver 
 
 o 
 
 must be delivered before the speed of the front roll is changed 
 enough to rectify the weight. 
 
 Gearing. The gearing, connecting the cards with the railway 
 head, is shown in Fig. 137. On the driving shaft, A, is a gear, B, 
 of twenty-live teeth, which drives another gear, C, w 7 hich has forty- 
 five teeth, on the feed shaft, D, through two carrier gears of 
 twenty-three and thirty-five teeth. On the feed shaft at each card 
 is a feed pulley, E, five inches in diameter, which drives the doffer 
 pulley, F, 9.8 inches in diameter, by a belt, and on the same stud 
 with the doffer pulley is a gear, G, of eighteen teeth, which drives 
 the card calender rolls, J, through the calender shaft gear, H, of 
 thirty-seven teeth and the doffer gear, K, of one hundred and 
 eighty teeth. 
 
 The railway trough drum, L, which is six inches in diameter, 
 is driven from the feed shaft by the bevel gears, M, of sixteen 
 teeth, and N, of ninety-two teeth, and the back roll of the railway 
 head is driven from the driving shaft by the bevel gears O,P,R 
 and S of thirty-seven, thirty, twenty-seven and sixty teeth respec- 
 
 205 
 
l()(i COTTON SPINNING 
 
 lively, shown in the detached sketch in the upper left hand corner. 
 
 Between the back roll of the railway head and the railway 
 trough drum, there is a slight draft and between this drum and the 
 card calender roll, there is also a draft which may be ascertained 
 in the usual manner. 
 
 Draft between railway head back roll and railway trough drum : 
 
 9 X 27 X 87 >: 45 X 92 
 60 X BO X 25 X 16 X 48 ~ 
 
 Draft between the railway trough drum and the card calender 
 rolls : 
 
 48 X 16 X 9..8 X 37 
 92 > 5 X 18 X 31 ~ 
 
 The revolutions of the railway head driving pulley determine 
 the speed of the card doffers and determine the production of the 
 card. Thus, when a change in the production of the card is re- 
 quired and the weight of the sliver is to remain the same, the 
 speed of the driving pulley must be changed. In Fig. 137, the 
 driving pulleys are shown as making 35.28 revolutions per minute 
 to one of the doffer. 
 
 180 X 9.8 X 45 _ 
 18 X 5 X 25~ 
 
 Fig. 138 shows a diagram of the draft gearing of the railway 
 to which reference will be made under the head of calculations. 
 DRAWING FRAMES 
 
 Arrangement. When drawing frames are used, they are ar- 
 ranged in two and often three processes, or sets, usually placed 
 across the mill as shown in plan in Fig. 139 anrd in elevation in 
 Fig. 140. They are built with from two to eight deliveries to a 
 head and from one to five heads to a frame. When more than one 
 head is used to a process, they are coupled together and all are 
 driven from an underneath shaft; thus in Figs. 139 and 140 each 
 process consists of one frame of fmir heads with six deliveries to 
 each head, or twenty-four deliveries to each process. On the right 
 end of each frame is a pulley, A, which is driven from a similar 
 pulley, B, on the main line by a belt, D. The pulley, A, is upon 
 an underneath shaft, F, which extends the length of the frame, and 
 upon it are the pulleys, C, for driving each individual head. The 
 shaft, F, is in motion all of the time that the main line is running, 
 
 jot; 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 167 
 
 motion being transmitted to the tight and loose pulleys of each 
 head by the belts, E. By this means the stopping of one head in 
 a process does not affect the others. 
 
 Sometimes the drawing frames are arranged longitudinally, as 
 shown in Fig. 141,. They are then coupled with coilers or deliv- 
 eries placed alternately as in the drawing, which shows three proc- 
 
 FRONT ROLL li DIA. 25 
 
 Fig. 138. Diagram of Railway Head Draft Gearing. 
 
 esses. The cans from F and H deliver in the same alley while those 
 from G deliver at the back of II. 
 
 When one Jhead is used in a process, it is referred to as a frame 
 and the underneath shaft is generally omitted, the frame being 
 driven directly from an overhead counter shaft in the same way as 
 in Fig. 142. 
 
 The most commonly used arrangement of drawing frames, 
 with respect to cards, is the one. shown in Fig. 139. 
 
 The principal point to be kept in mind is, that the cans of 
 sliver shall be taken in as direct a line as possible, from the card 
 coilers to the back of the first process of drawing, and that no un- 
 
 207 
 
K;S 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 necessary movements shall be made by the tenders of the drawing 
 
 / / 
 
 frame. 
 
 Operation. The actual operation of drawing is very simple 
 and consists of passing the slivers between several pairs of rolls, 
 each pair running at a greater speed than the preceding one. The 
 rolls are set at a certain distance apart, slightly more than the 
 length of the cotton fibers, so that two pairs cannot have any direct 
 contact with the same fibers at the same time. 
 
 AVhat actually takes place may be described best by referring 
 
 J J JJ J J J'J'O J J J J J MJ JJ^> J'^D JJJ j JJ 
 
 Fig. 1G9. Plan of Card Room Showing Drawing Frames. 
 
 to Fig. 143, which shows in section four pairs of drawing frame 
 rolls. 
 
 The cotton enters between the back rolls, 1)D, and is drawn 
 between the next pair, CC. Now as the speed of CC is slightly 
 more than that of DD, it is evident that the fibers, which are under 
 the influence of rolls, CC, will be withdrawn from the mass be- 
 tween DD, the friction existing among the fibers causing them to 
 straighten in being drawn one by another. This action is still fur- 
 
 208 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 Nil) 
 
 ther carried out as the sliver is drawn between the remaining rolls 
 in the set. 
 
 Fig. 144 shows a general section of a drawing frame. The 
 slivers, S, are drawn upward through the sliver guide, T, and be- 
 
 Fig. 140. Elevation Showing Drawing Frames. 
 
 tween the fluted carrier roll, P, and the top roll, N 1 , then between 
 the four pairs of draft rolls, D,G,B,A, where it receives a draft, 
 usually as great as the number of cans put up at the back. Thus. 
 
 Fig. 141. Plan of Card Room Showing the Drawing Frames 
 Arranged Longitudinally. 
 
 if there are six cans at the back, and the sliver from these cans is 
 drawn through as one sliver, or doubled six into one, the machine 
 is given a draft of six, so that the weight of the sliver being de- 
 livered is the same as the weight of that from each can. While 
 
 209 
 
170 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 this is the usual practice, it is not a rule to follow, as general con- 
 ditions and requirements determine the best draft and weight of 
 sliver to be adopted. 
 
 Upon leaving the draft rolls, the sliver is drawn over the 
 
 Fig. 142. Front Elevation of Drawing Frame Driven from Above. 
 
 sliver plate, J, through the trumpet, X, and between the calender 
 rolls, E and F. From this point, it falls through the spout of the 
 coiler, G, and is coiled in the can, II. 
 
 Stop Motions. The drawing frame is provided. with, four stop 
 motions: A full can stop motion which operates when a set of cans 
 
 ABC D 
 
 Fig. 143. Section Showing Draft Rolls. 
 
 at the front of the machine becomes full, two calender roll stop 
 motions which operate when the sliver is absent from between the 
 calender rolls or when a "wind-up" occurs on either of them, and 
 a back stop motion which causes the head to stop when the sliver 
 breaks at the back of the frame or a can becomes empty. 
 
 The necessity for a back stop motion becomes more apparent 
 when we consider that after the drawing processes there is no op- 
 portunity to rectify, to any extent, the inequalities in the weight 
 
 810 
 
S5 
 O 
 
 H -N 
 
 S3 
 
 Pu - 
 
 SS 
 
 O g 
 
 K !c 
 O ^ 
 
 la 
 
 H f- 
 
 2 -j 
 !^ o 
 
 
 cc 
 Q 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 171 
 
 of the sliver. When we realize that in doubling six into one, the 
 breaking of an end means 16% difference in the weight of the 
 sliver, we soon see the need of a stop motion. If six slivers, each 
 
 Fig. 144. General Section of Drawing Frame. 
 
 weighing sixty grains per yard, were doubled with a draft of six 
 we should still get a sixty grain sliver, but if an end should break, 
 the weight of the slivers would be fifty grains, or 16% lighter. 
 
 Of back stop motions, there are two styles used, mechanical 
 and electrical. Opinions are divided as to which is the better one. 
 
 Electrical Stop Motion. The principle, upon which the elec- 
 
 213 
 
172 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 trie back stop motion operates, depends upon the fact that cotton 
 is an insulator or non-conductor of electricity and that the slivers, 
 passing between two rolls connected with opposite poles of an elec- 
 tric generator, prevent the flow of the electric current. As long 
 as the sliver is between these rolls, the stop motion remains in- 
 operative, but should it break and allow the rolls to come together, 
 the circuit is completed and the machine stops instantly. 
 
 Fig. 145 shows a section of the electric back stop motion 
 magnet box which should be referred to in connection with Fig- 
 144. The electric current for operating this stop motion is con- 
 
 Fig. 145. Magnet Box for Electric Back Stop Motion. 
 
 ducted by means of rods, or wires, from the generator, which is 
 conveniently located and is usually furnished for a certain number 
 of deliveries of drawing. 
 
 The positive pole or wire, A 1 , is indicated by the sign -)- and 
 the negative wire, Z 1 , by the sign . The machine is practi- 
 cally divided into positive and negative poles by insulating material 
 throughout, the terminals of the poles being at the rolls P and N 1 . 
 The current flows from the generator, as indicated by arrows, to 
 the contact block, R 1 , through the contact springs, B 2 , contact 
 plate, C 1 , and the electro- magnet, M 1 . From the electro-magnet 
 it passes upward on the wire connection to the stop motion roll 
 stand, K, and terminates in the top roll, N 1 , which runs in con- 
 
 214 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 tact with K. The only point where the current can return to the 
 generator is through the bottom or carrier roll, P, which is con- 
 nected by the framing of the machine to the negative pole Z 1 . So 
 long as the sliver is between the rolls N 1 and P, the circuit is 
 broken and no flow of the electric current takes place, but, should 
 a sliver break or run out, the top roll, JX 1 , falls into contact with 
 the carrier roll, P, completing the circuit from A 1 to Z 1 . The in- 
 stant that the current flows through the electro-magnet, it attracts 
 the armature F 1 into the path of the vibrating arm G 1 . As aeon- 
 sequence, the movement of the arm is arrested and the stop motion 
 spring released, shipping the belt on to the loose pulley. The de- 
 vice for releasing the spring rod is the same for the electric stop 
 
 Fig. 146. Device for Releasing Stop Motion Spring. 
 
 motion as for the mechanical one and will be referred to in another 
 paragraph. 
 
 The carrier roll, P, is fluted and extends the whole length of 
 the head, but the top rolls, IX" 1 , are made in short lengths with two 
 bosses, one for each end of sliver. A lug on the stand, K, projects 
 into a groove between the bosses and prevents any movement of 
 the top rolls, longitudinally, on the carrier roll. 
 
 The sliver guide, R, which is pivoted at R 6 , has a longitud- 
 inally projecting arm, which is just clear of the underside of 
 the carrier roll. If the cotton should collect and wind up on the 
 carrier roll, its increased diameter would depress the horizontal 
 arm, causing the sliver guide to turn about the center R 8 and the 
 adjustable pin R in its upper end will come in contact with the 
 top roll. This completes the circuit and causes the frame to stop 
 just as if the top rolls and carrier roll were brought into contact. 
 
 For explaining the device for releasing the stop motion spring, 
 Figure 146 has been prepared. It shows a section of the drawing 
 
 215 
 
174 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 frame and all parts not actually necessary in the explanation are 
 omitted. The rocker shaft, <P, is operated by an eccentric, L", 
 and is connected with it by an eccentric arm K, and a rocker arm 
 K 1 . A pin, K", in the eccentric arm, rests in the bottom of a slot 
 in the rocker arm and is held in place by a spring K 2 . 
 
 When any of the stop motions operate, the movements of the 
 rocker shaft are arrested, and as the eccentric arm is positive in its 
 movements, the stopping of the rocker shaft causes the pin in the 
 eccentric arm to rise in the slot in K and in so doing, it is brought 
 
 o' O . 
 
 into contact with the latch lever, L 6 . This causes the latch lever, 
 which turns on a pin at C, to be withdrawn from a groove in the 
 
 Fig. 147. Mechanical Back Stop Motion. 
 
 spring rod, F 4 , releasing the spring, C 4 , and moving the belt on to 
 the loose pulley. 
 
 Mechanical Back Stop Motion. A drawing frame with a me- 
 chanical back stop motion is shown in section in Fig. 147. The 
 slivers are drawn from the cans between two rolls, L and M. The 
 roll, M, is continuous while L is made in short sections covering 
 
 O 
 
 two slivers. From these rolls, the slivers pass forward over stop 
 motion spoons, N 4 , and between the draft rolls, D, C, B, and A, 
 and finally pass as one sliver through the trumpet, N, between the 
 calender rolls, E and F, and are coiled up in the can, H, by the 
 coiler gear G. 
 
 The stop motion spoons- are mounted upon a knife edge, O, 
 and they are so balanced, that when the sliver passes over them, 
 the back ends, D 2 , are held clear of the path of the rocker arm C s . 
 If a sliver breaks, the back end, which is heavy, falls instant- 
 
 Sir. 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 175 
 
 ly into the path of the rocker arm and arrests its motion and the 
 machine is stopped immediately. 
 
 All parts, forward of the spoons, are substantially the same 
 as those shown and described for the electric stop motion, and 
 need no further explanation. 
 
 Some drawing frames, with mechanical back stop motions, 
 are built without the carrying rolls, L and M, shown in Figure 147. 
 This works very well for the first and second processes of drawing 
 after carding, but for stock which has been combed, it becomes 
 necessary to have these rolls to lift the sliver out of the cans, as 
 the slightest strain will cause it to pull apart. With very short 
 
 Fig. 148. Full Can Stop Motion. 
 
 cotton and waste, it is also a help toward preventing the sliver 
 from parting. 
 
 Full Can Stop Motion. The full can stop motion, as the 
 name implies, stops each individual head when the cans in that 
 head become full. This stop motion, which is connected with one 
 can in each head, serves as a guage for the others as the cans are 
 usually emptied in sets. 
 
 The stop motion is shown in Figure 148, which may be con- 
 sidered with Figure 144. Bolted to the table is a slotted stand, ES 
 carrying a lever, F 2 , which is mounted upon a pin,N 2 . In its nor- 
 mal position, one end of this lever rests lightly upon the top of 
 the coiler gear, G, and the other just above a projection of the arm, 
 J-. which is fastened to the rocker shaft, P 2 . 
 
 When the can becomes full, the cotton presses upward against 
 the underside of the coiler gear, G, causing it to raise the short 
 end of the lever, F 2 , and this lever turning about the pin, N 2 , its 
 long end is lowered into the path of the arm, J 2 , thus arresting the 
 motion of the rocker shaft, P 2 . This, as before described, releases 
 
 217 
 
176 
 
 COTTC )X S I L X X I X ( J 
 
 the stop motion spring which causes the belt to be shipped on to 
 the loose pulley. 
 
 The screw at II 2 serves as a means for a very line adjustment 
 of the stop motion. 
 
 Figure 149 shows a device for stopping the drawing frame if 
 the sliver should "wind up" on either of the calender rolls or 
 "break down" before it gets to them. This stop motion, which is 
 really two stop motions operated by one mechanical device, is 
 caused to operate by the rising and falling of the outer calender 
 roll, E. The bearing, E 4 , for the roll, is free to move in a slot in 
 the calender stand, while the bearing for F is fast. Against the 
 underside of E 4 is a lever, C 3 , pivoted at M 2 and heavier at its 
 
 Fig. 149. Calender Roll Stop Motion. 
 
 long end which is forked so as to engage the rocker sJiaft arm, J 2 , 
 when either raised or lowered. 
 
 If the sliver winds up on either calender roll, the increased 
 diameter caused will move the roll, E, away from the roll, F, and 
 in so doing will allow the lever, C 3 , to rise and its long end to 
 engage the rocker shaft arm, J 2 . While if from any cause the sliv- 
 er breaks down, the roll, E, will fall slightly against F and depress 
 the short end of the lever, C 3 , causing the long end to be brought 
 into contact with J 2 . 
 
 In the short end of the lever, C 3 , which is split, is an adjust- 
 ing screw, A 2 , for setting the stop motion. 
 
 Clearers. The electricity, generated by the friction of the rolls 
 and belts of the drawing frame, causes the loose fibers and flyings 
 to adhere to the draft rolls and unless some means are taken to 
 prevent this happening, the accumulation becomes detached from 
 time to time, and is carried along with the sliver. This makes the 
 
 218 
 
IMPROVED RAILWAY HEAD- FRONT VIEW 
 
 Saco & Pettee Machine Shops. 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 177 
 
 work dirty and uneven, and frequently causes the sliver to break. 
 The device employed to collect the loose cotton is called a 
 clearer and several styles are in use. The one most commonly 
 used is shown in Figure 150. For the top rolls, this consists 
 of a flat piece of wood, A, with wires, B, driven into the underside 
 and supporting a flannel apron C. The apron rests lightly against 
 the top of the rolls, and as they revolve the loose cotton is grad- 
 ually collected by the rough surface of the apron, which has to be 
 cleaned or u picked" at regular intervals. If the accumulation is 
 
 allowed to get too large it will 
 
 o o 
 
 become loose from the clearer 
 and pass in with the sliver, 
 hence the clearer should be 
 cleaned as often as the case 
 demands. 
 
 For -the bottom clearer, 
 strips of wood, D, covered with 
 flannel are used. They conform 
 in shape to the outline of the 
 rolls and are held in contact 
 with the flutes by weights, E. 
 The straps holding the weights 
 pass upward and around the 
 bottom rolls. 
 
 Another style of clearer is 
 shown in Figure 151. This 
 consists of two wooden rolls, 
 A and B, supported in a frame, C. Around the roll is an apron, 
 D, of heavy flannel or carpet. The roll, A, is covered with per- 
 forated tin and acts as a driver for the apron, while the roll, B, 
 is a carrier with an adjusting screw, E, for keeping the apron tight. 
 On the top of the frame is a comb, K, with the blade set close to 
 the apron. Motion is given to the comb by an arm, F, from an 
 eccentric, G. This arm also carries a pawl, H, which engages 
 with the teeth of the ratchet gear, J, and through the gears, L 
 and M, the roll, A, is turned slightly at each forward movement 
 of the arm, F. 
 
 By this means the apron, as it moves around slowly, wipes 
 
 Fig. 150. Common Top Clearer. 
 
 219 
 
ITS 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 the top of the rolls and the cotton, which is collected, is combed 
 into a roll as it reaches the comb when it is removed very easily. 
 
 A set screw, N, is for adjusting the frame so that the apron 
 shall just touch lightly on the top of the rolls, as any great pres- 
 sure will cause them to slip on the bottom rolls and make uneven 
 work. All that is necessary is to simply wipe them lightly and 
 not retard their rotation. 
 
 Diameter of Fluted Rolls. The size of the fluted rolls, on 
 most makes of drawing frames for ordinary length staple cotton, 
 is shown in Figure 152. Sometimes this is varied and the back 
 
 Fig. 151. Revolving Top Clearer. 
 
 roll is made one and three-eighths inches in diameter instead of one 
 and one-eighth inches diameter. 
 
 As a rule, when the frame is to be used for long staple cotton, 
 the rolls are made larger in diameter, as the large rolls lessen to 
 some extent the trouble from roller laps. The most common sizes 
 are shown in Figures 153. 
 
 For very, short lap cotton, and when a large percentage of 
 waste is to be used, the rolls are made of the diameters indicated 
 in Figure 154. 
 
 Setting of Rolls. In regard to setting the fluted rolls, no ex- 
 act rule can be given except that the distance between the centers 
 of the front and second rolls should be from one-quarter to three- 
 eighths of an inch more than the average length of staple being 
 worked, and this distance is made greater between the centers of 
 the second and third rolls, and still greater between the centers of 
 the third and back rolls. Thus, in Figure 152, the distance be- 
 
 220 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 179 
 
 tween the centers of the front and second rolls is one and three- 
 eighths inches, between the second and third rolls, one and one-half 
 inches, and between the third and back rolls, one and five-eighths 
 inches. 
 
 These .distances vary under different conditions. If a sliver 
 
 , . t 
 
 1| 1* IB i 
 
 Fig. 152. Draft Rolls for Ordinary Length Staple Cotton. 
 
 of eighty grains is being run, the distance between the centers of 
 the rolls should be greater than when running a fifty grain sliver. 
 This is due to the fact that not only the fibers directly in contact 
 with the bite of the roll are being drawn, but the surrounding 
 ones are acted upon also, and as the mass of cotton in a heavy 
 
 12 
 
 Fig. 153. Draft Rolls for Long Staple Cotton. 
 
 sliver is considerable, it is impossible to produce a sliver of even 
 weight unless there is more space between the bite of the several 
 pairs of rolls. 
 
 If the draft is short, the rolls may be set closer than when an 
 excessive draft is used, but with a very long draft the rolls, must 
 be set more open. In all cases the speed must be reduced with a 
 large draft or a large amount of wsiste will be made. 
 
 Top Rolls. There are two kinds of top rolls used, leather 
 covered rolls and metallic rolls. The leather covered rolls are 
 made in two styles, shell and solid. The shell roll, which is gen- 
 erally used for all four lines, is shown in Fig. 155. This roll is 
 
 221 
 
ISO 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 made in three parts, the arbor, the shell and the bushiny. The 
 arbor is stationary and the shell revolves upon it. This gives a 
 long bearing surface for the shell and a chance for a thorough 
 lubrication of the arbor. 
 
 The ends of both arbor and bushing are made alike and are 
 
 Fig. 154. Draft Rolls for Short Staple Cotton. 
 
 held in place in the slides of the roll stands. The shoulders, A 
 bear against the sides of the stands to prevent end movement to 
 the rolls and the weight hooks are hung upon the necks of the 
 rolls at B. 
 
 A section of the shell and bushing, in position upon the 
 
 BUSHING 
 
 ARBOR 
 
 SHELL 
 
 Fig. 155. Shell Top Roll. 
 
 arbor, is shown in the lower view of the drawing. The boss of 
 the shell, C, is first covered with specially woven cloth and then 
 with roller leather made from sheepskin. 
 
 The solid top roll, which is sometimes used, is the same in 
 
 222 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 181 
 
 outline as the shell roll. The weight hooks are hung iii the same 
 manner, but as the whole roll revolves, it necessitates oiling the 
 neck of the roll where the weight hook bears. 
 
 The weighting is so arranged that the pressure may be re- 
 moved from the top rolls when 
 the machine is to stand idle for 
 any length of time. This pre- 
 vents the leather from becoming 
 grooved by the flutes of the bot- 
 tom roller. 
 
 As previously mentioned, 
 the shell roll is generally used 
 for all four lines, but for the Fig. 156. Perspective view of 
 
 back line a steel fluted roll, cue Metallic Top Rolls - 
 
 same as the bottom roll, is sometimes used. 
 
 When metallic top rolls are used, the production of the draw- 
 ing frame is greatly increased, owing to the fact that the flutes of 
 the rolls interlock and the sliver, in passing between them, is made 
 to follow the outline of the flutes. This point may be seen by 
 examining Figures 156 and 157. The rolls are prevented from 
 bottoming by collars, A, at each end of both top and bottom rolls. 
 If the sliver follows the exact outline of the flutes, a one and 
 
 three-eighths front roll 
 will deliver, in one rev- 
 olution, five and seven- 
 ty-four one-hundredths 
 inches, while a common 
 roll, of the same diam- 
 eter, will deliver only 
 four and thirty-one one- 
 hundredths inches, 
 which shows that the 
 delivery of a metallic 
 roll is thirty-three per cent greater, but as a fact, unless the sliver 
 is extremely light, it will not follow the outline of the flutes closely 
 enough to deliver this amount. It is plain that on a heavy sliver, 
 the thickness prevents the flutes from interlocking as deeply as with 
 a light one; consequently, one revolution of the front roll will not 
 
 Pig. 157. Enlarged Section of Metallic 
 Top Rolls. 
 
 223 
 
182 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 deliver as great a .length and, for this reason, it is impossible to 
 figure the exact production of a drawing frame with metallic rolls. 
 It is, however, safe to estimate from twenty-five to thirty-three 
 per cent greater production than with the common roll. 
 
 The front metallic roll, one and three-eighths inches in diame- 
 ter, is made with forty-four flutesj and in figuring the draft, this 
 should be called y or 1| inches in diameter, which is thirty-three 
 per cent greater than a common roll. The second roll, 1| inches 
 in diameter, is made with thirty-six fiutes and should be called | 
 or l inches in diameter. The third roll, 1^ inches in diameter, 
 
 DRAFT GEAR 
 28 TO 64 
 
 or 1| 
 
 CALENDER ROLL 3 D I A. 
 
 Fig. 158. Diagram of Drawing Frame Draft Gearing. 
 
 is made with twenty-seven flutes and should be called 
 inches in diameter, and the back roll, 1| inches in diameter, is 
 made with eighteen flutes and is called y or 1| inches in diam- 
 eter. With these points, it is comparatively easy to figure the 
 draft. 
 
 A diagram of the draft gearing is given in Fig. 158 from 
 which the usual calculations may be made. 
 
 CALCULATIONS 
 
 Rule 1. To find the draft of the drawing frame between the cal- 
 ender rolls and the back roll: Multiply together the driven gears and 
 the diameter of the calender rolls and divide the product by the prod- 
 uct of the driving gears multiplied together with the diameter of 
 the back roll. The driven gears are L, J, 13^ (draft change gear, 
 -11 teeth) D, F and II, and the driving gears are M, K, A, C, 
 
 224 
 
COTTON SPINNING 183 
 
 E and G. The diameter of the calender rolls is 3 inches and may be 
 called 24, and the diameter of the back roll is 1| inches and may be 
 called 9. 
 
 61 X 22 X 41 X 65 X 28 X 27x24 _ 
 Lxam P le: 45X61X26X25X25X25X 9~ 
 Rule 2. To find the draft factor: Proceed as in the above 
 rule but omit the. draft change gear, B. 
 
 61 X 22 X 65 X 28 X 27 X 24 
 Exam P le: 45 X 61 X 26 X 25 X 25 X 25 X 9 = ' 15 ' 6 
 
 Rule 3. To find the draft: Multiply die factor by the num- 
 ber of teeth in the draft change gear. 
 
 Example: 0.1576 X 41 = 6.4616 
 
 .Rule 4. To find the number of teeth in the draft gear: 
 Divide the required draft by the factor. 
 
 6.4616 
 
 Example: O1576 = 41> 
 
 The draft of the drawing frame is divided between the rolls 
 in the following manner: Between the front roll and the second 
 roll, it is 3.08 draft and may be found by applying the same rule 
 as for the total draft. 
 
 Example: 25 X 25 X 9 = 3 - 8 
 
 An examination of the diagram of the gearing, Fig. 158, will 
 show that the draft between the front and second rolls is not 
 affected by changing the total draft of the machine, and unless the 
 total draft is made unusually short, the draft between these rolls 
 is not changed, but, between the second and third rolls, the draft 
 
 O ' 7 ' 
 
 is affected when changing the draft gear, B. Thus, with a 41 
 tooth .draft gear, which is correct for a total draft of 6.46, the 
 draft between the second and third rolls is 1.626. 
 
 25 X 25 X 41 X 65 X 9 
 Lxara P le: 45 X 35 x 26 X 25 X 9 = 
 
 The draft between the third and back rolls is 1.209 and is not 
 affected by changing the total draft as the back roll is driven from 
 the third. 
 
 27 X 28 X 9 
 
 225 
 
184 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 Between the front fluted rolls and calender rolls there is a 
 slight draft which can be regulated by changing the gear, L. 
 of 61 teeth. 
 
 24 X 61 X 22 
 
 Exam P le: 45 X 61 X 11 = 
 
 The total draft ina^ be found by multiplying together the 
 draft between the rolls. 
 
 Example: 3.080 X 1.626 X 1.209 X 1.066 = 6.45 + 
 
 Rule 5. To find the production of the drawing frame: 
 Multiply together the number of revolutions of the front roll per 
 minute (300), the number of inches delivered by the calender rolls 
 at each revolution of the front roll (4.60), the number of minutes 
 run per day (600) and the weight of the sliver in grains per yard 
 (60). Divide the product by the number of grains in one pound 
 (7,000) multiplied by the number of inches in one yard (36). 
 
 In figuring the production of the drawing frame, the number 
 of inches, delivered by the calender rolls at each revolution of the 
 front roll, should be considered as there is a draft of 1.066 between 
 them with a 61 tooth gear at L. The calender rolls deliver 4.60 
 inches at each revolution of the front roll. 
 
 300 X 4.60 X 600 X 60 
 
 Example: ~7000 X 36 = 1J7 ' U 
 
 From the number of pounds given hi the above example there 
 should be deducted about 20 per cent for time lost in cleaning, 
 oiling and piecing broken ends. 
 
 Rule 6. To find the factor for the production of the draw- 
 ing frame: Proceed as in Rule 5, but omit the revolutions of the 
 front roll and the weight of the sliver. 
 
 v 4.60 X 600 
 
 Example: 7000 X 36 = - 1095 
 
 Rule 7. To find the production with the factor given : Mul- 
 tiply the factor by the. number of revolutions of the front roll and 
 the weight of the sliver. 
 
 Example: .1095 X 300 X 60 = 197.1 
 
 Rule 8. To find the draft necessary to make a sliver of a 
 certain weight: Multiply together the number of slivers entering 
 at the back of the drawing frame (6) by their weight in grains per 
 
 226 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 1S5 
 
 yard (60) and divide by the weight in grains per yard of the sliver 
 being delivered. 
 
 Example: ^ =6. 
 
 Rule 9. To find the weight of the sliver being delivered: 
 Multiply together the nnmber of slivers entering at the back (6) 
 by their weight in grains per yard (60) and divide by the draft 
 (6). 
 
 6 X 60 
 Example: 
 
 6 
 
 = 60. 
 
 To find the draft of the railway head: Proceed as in Rule 1. 
 A diagram of the gearing is given in Fig. 138. The draft change 
 gear is on the end of the top cone shaft and the cone belt should be 
 considered midway of the ends of the cones when the diameters of 
 both are equal. The driven gears are S, P, E and G (draft change 
 gear 40 teeth) front roll 14 inches diameter. The driving gears 
 are R, Q, F and H, and the back roll is 1J- inches diameter. 
 60 X 30 X 72 X 40 X 12 
 
 Lxam P le: 2TX32X37X36X 9'= 
 
 It is usually customary to also change the draft between all of 
 the rolls when changing the total draft of the railway head. Be- 
 tween the back and third rolls, this change is effected by changing 
 the gear, B, and between the third and second rolls by changing 
 the gear, C. The table shown herewith gives the correct gears for 
 the changes in draft. 
 
 TABLE OF CHANGE GEARS 
 
 
 No. of 
 
 No. of No. of No. of 
 
 No. of No. of 
 
 Draft. 
 
 Teeth in 
 
 Teeth in Teeth in Draft. Teeth in 
 
 Teeth in Teeth in 
 
 
 Gear Q. 
 
 Gear B. ' Gear C. 
 
 Gear G. 
 
 Gear B. Gear C. 
 
 2.10 
 
 14 
 
 32 
 
 24 4.20 
 
 28 
 
 57 
 
 32 
 
 2.23 
 
 15 
 
 32 
 
 24 4.35 
 
 29 
 
 58 
 
 33 
 
 2.40 
 
 16 
 
 34 
 
 25 4.50 
 
 30 61 
 
 34 
 
 2.55 
 
 17 
 
 37 
 
 26 . 
 
 4.65 
 
 31 
 
 63 
 
 34 
 
 2.70 
 
 18 
 
 37 
 
 26 
 
 4.82 
 
 32 
 
 66 
 
 35 
 
 2.86 
 
 19 
 
 40 
 
 27 
 
 4.95 
 
 33 
 
 67 
 
 35 
 
 3.00 
 
 20 
 
 42 
 
 28 
 
 5.10 
 
 34 
 
 68 
 
 35 
 
 3.15 
 
 21 
 
 42 
 
 28 
 
 5.25 
 
 35 
 
 71 
 
 36 
 
 3.30 
 
 22 
 
 45 
 
 29 
 
 5.40 
 
 36 
 
 72 
 
 36 
 
 3.45 
 
 23 
 
 47 
 
 30 
 
 5.55 
 
 87 
 
 73 
 
 37 
 
 3.60 
 
 24 
 
 50 
 
 30 
 
 5.70 
 
 38 
 
 74 
 
 37 
 
 3.75 
 
 25 
 
 52 
 
 31 
 
 5.87 
 
 39 74 37 
 
 3.90 
 
 26 
 
 53 
 
 31 
 
 6.00 
 
 40 74 
 
 37 
 
 4.05 
 
 27 55 
 
 32 
 
 
 
 227 
 
186 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 FLY FRAMES. 
 
 In the process which follows drawing, the machines employ- 
 ed are called fly frames or roving machines. The fly frame con- 
 tinues the drawing process, but tha cotton is manipulated in a 
 
 different manner. Two, three, and sometimes four machines are 
 necessary, depending upon the number of yarn it is intended to 
 finally spin, as the cotton from the roving machine goes directly to 
 the spinning frame. 
 
 The machines are practically the same in mechanical detail, 
 differing only in size and weight. The machine first used is called 
 
 228 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 187 
 
 the slubber, the second is the intermediate, and the third is called 
 the fine frame. When a fourth is necessary to reduce the cotton 
 to the correct weight, it is called the jack frame. 
 
 The fly frames may be arranged longitudinally or transversely 
 of the mill. The most common arrangement is shown in Fig.159. 
 In this illustration there are three processes. The slubbers are 
 placed, as a pair, directly in front of the drawing frames, the inter- 
 mediates are placed on each side of the slubbers and the fine 
 frames extend across the mill in an adjoining row. 
 
 When practicable, each pair of machines should be driven 
 from the same counter shaft pulley, which has two faces divided by 
 a flange. The counter shaft should be placed about over the 
 
 Fig. 160. Sectional Elevation Showing Fly Frames. 
 
 center of the front or work alley. The reason for this is very 
 apparent if we examine Fig. 160, which is a sectional elevation show- 
 ing the fine frames illustrated in the previous drawing. The 
 driving pulleys, which are near the back side of the machine, turn 
 toward the back, which necessitates a cross belt for one and a straight 
 or open belt for the other. AVith the counter shaft over the work 
 alley, the point where the belts separate is high enough to allow 
 passage beneath, but if the shaft were in the back alley, there 
 would not be passage room. 
 
 Before entering upon a description of the fly frame, the 
 methods of numbering yarns and roving and the tables of weights 
 and measures, used in cotton manufacturing, should be fully un- 
 derstood. 
 
 In all processes, up to the present one, reference has been 
 made to cotton as weighing a certain number of grains or ounces 
 
188 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 per yard. After it has passed through the slubber, it is called 
 roving and the weight is based upon the number of hanks, of 840 
 yards each, there are in one pound. 
 
 The English table of weights is a combination of avoirdupois 
 and troy weights and enables a very iine adjustment to be made. 
 
 TABLE OF WEIGHT. 
 
 24 grains = 1 pennyweight (dwt.) 
 437.5 " =18 " + 5% grains = 1 ounce. 
 
 7000 " = 291 " + 16 grains = 1 pound. 
 
 TABLE OF MEASURE. 
 
 1.5 yards = 1 thread. 
 120 yards = 80 threads = 1 skein. 
 840 yards = 560 threads = 7 skeins 1 hank. 
 
 If we measure 840 yards of roving and find that it weighs 
 one pound, it is called one hank and weighs, per yard, 8.33 grains. 
 
 7,000 -- 840 = 8.33 
 
 If there are 1680 yards in one pound, it is called two hank, 
 and weighs, per yard, just half as much as one hank, or 4.1(3 grains. 
 
 7,000 -s- 1680 = 4.16 
 
 If 420 yards weigh one pound, it is half hank and weighs 
 16.66 grains per yard. 
 
 Number 1 roving, or one hank, and number 1 yarn weigh the 
 same per yard, but as the roving is twisted so much less than the 
 yarn, it appears to be much heavier. 
 
 For convenience and on account of the extreme delicacy of rov- 
 ing, it i a customary, in actual practice, to measure twelve yards to 
 ascertain the weight. The reason for taking just this length is as 
 follows: There are 840 yards in a hank and twelve yards is ^ of 
 this amount and if we divide twelve yards by -^ of a pound ( 100 
 grains), we get the same result as if we should weigh the whole 
 hank. 
 
 12 yards ^ of a hank or 840 yards. 
 100 grains = -fa of a pound or 7,000 grains. 
 
 The following table gives the weight and standard twist for 
 roving from .25 hank to 20.00 hank. 
 
 230 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 189 
 
 ROVING TABLE. 
 
 Hank 
 Roving. 
 
 Grains per 
 Yard. 
 
 Twist per 
 Inch. 
 
 Hank 
 Roving. 
 
 Grains per 
 Yard. 
 
 Twist per 
 Inch. 
 
 .25 
 
 33.33 
 
 .60 
 
 2.00 
 
 4.16 
 
 1.70 
 
 .30 
 
 27.77 
 
 .65 
 
 2.25 
 
 3.70 
 
 1.80 
 
 .35 
 
 23.80 
 
 .70 
 
 2.50 
 
 3.33 
 
 1.90 
 
 .40 
 
 20.83 
 
 .75 
 
 2.75 
 
 3.30 
 
 1.99 
 
 .45 
 
 18.51 
 
 .80 
 
 3.00 
 
 2.78 
 
 2.08 
 
 .50 
 
 16.66 
 
 .84 
 
 3.50 
 
 2.38 
 
 2.S4 
 
 .55 
 
 15.15 
 
 .88 
 
 4.00 
 
 2.08 
 
 1.40 
 
 .60 
 
 13.88 
 
 .92 
 
 4.50 
 
 1.85 
 
 2.55 
 
 .65 
 
 12.82 
 
 .95 
 
 5.00 
 
 1.67 
 
 9.68 
 
 .70 
 
 11.90 
 
 1.00 
 
 6.00 
 
 1.39 
 
 2.92 
 
 
 11.11 
 
 1.04 
 
 7.00 
 
 1.19 
 
 3.18 
 
 .80 
 
 10.42 
 
 1.07 
 
 8.00 
 
 1.04 
 
 3.40 
 
 .85 
 
 9.80 
 
 .11 
 
 9.00 
 
 .92 
 
 3.60 
 
 .90 
 
 9.26 
 
 .14 
 
 10.00 
 
 .83 
 
 3.79 
 
 .95 
 
 8.77 
 
 .17 
 
 11.00 
 
 .76 
 
 3.97 
 
 1.00 
 
 8.33 
 
 .20 
 
 12.00 
 
 .69 
 
 4.15 
 
 1.10 
 
 7.58 
 
 .26 
 
 13.00 
 
 .64 
 
 4.33 
 
 .20 
 
 6.94 
 
 1.31 
 
 14.00 
 
 .59 
 
 4.49 
 
 .30 
 
 6.41 
 
 1.37 
 
 15.00 
 
 .55 
 
 4.65 
 
 .40 
 
 595 
 
 1.42 
 
 16.00 
 
 .52 
 
 4.80 
 
 .50 
 
 5.55 
 
 1.47 
 
 17.00 
 
 .49 
 
 4,95 
 
 .60 
 
 5.21 
 
 1.52 
 
 18.00 
 
 .46 
 
 5.09 
 
 .70 
 
 4.90 
 
 1.56 
 
 19.00 
 
 .43 
 
 5.23 
 
 1.80 
 
 4.63 
 
 1.61 
 
 20.00 
 
 .42 
 
 5.37 
 
 1.90 
 
 4.38 
 
 1.65 
 
 
 
 
 The Slubber receives the cans of sliver at the back, from the 
 last drawing frame and it is put through the machine and wound 
 upon bobbins. These bobbins are then placed in the creel of the 
 intermediate frame and the roving is put through the same process 
 and delivered to the creel of the fine frame, where the operations 
 which occur on the other machines are repeated. 
 
 A section of a fine frame is given in Fig. 161. The bobbins^ 
 A, are placed in the creel, two ends for each spindle. The roving 
 passes around the rod, B, and through the trumpets, or guides, C, 
 and is drawn between the draft rolls, D, Eand F. From the front 
 roll it passes to the nose of the flyer, G, through the hole, H, and 
 down one leg of the flyer and through the eye of the presser, K, and 
 is finally wound upon the bobbin, L. 
 
 The flyers, of which there are two rows, fit snugly in the top of 
 the spindle, J, and revolve with it. This causes the roving to be 
 twisted, which gives it sufficient strength to enable it to be wound 
 upon the bobbins. 
 
 The spindles are stationary so far as any vertical movement is 
 concerned. They rest in steps, M, which are carried by the step 
 rail, KX 
 
 The bobbins, which are driven separately, from the spindles, are 
 carried by the bobbin, or bolster rail, N, which is made to traverse 
 
 231 
 
190 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 up and down so that the layers of roving shall be wound evenly. 
 
 A drawing of the spindles, bobbins and flyers is shown in Fig. 
 
 162. The upper part of the spindle is supported by the bolster, P, 
 
 Fig. 161. Sectional Elevation of Fine Fly Frame. 
 
 which is fastened to the bobbin rail and the bobbin, which seems 
 to be upon the spindle, is simply a loose fit around the bolster. 
 The spindles are driven from the spindle shaft, P 2 , by the 
 
 232 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 191 
 
 bevel gears, L 1 and T 1 , and the bobbins are driven from the bobbin 
 
 O ' ' 
 
 shaft, J 2 , by the bevel gears, M 1 and N 1 . The gear, M 1 , revolves 
 upon the bolster and the bobbin, which is slotted on the bottom, is 
 driven from the gear by a pin which 
 fits into one of the slots. The bobbin 
 revolves between the arms of the flyer 
 and in the same direction as the flyer, 
 but to wind the roving, it must run 
 faster or slower than the flyer. 
 
 Flyer Lead and Bobbin Lead. The 
 front roll delivers the roving at a con- 
 stant speed which accords to the hank 
 being spun, and the roving must be 
 wound upon the bobbin at the same 
 speed by which it is delivered. There 
 are two ways by which this is accom- 
 plished: "The Flyer Lead" and "The 
 Bobbin Lead". The first mentioned is 
 the older method and is used upon the 
 "Speeder", a machine which corresponds 
 to the fly frame and may be found in 
 operation in some mills at the present 
 time. 
 
 With the "Flyer Lead", the flyer 
 is run at a constant speed, which is 
 greater than that of the bobbin and the 
 roving is wrapped upon the surface of 
 the bobbin by the excessive speed of the 
 flyer. As the bobbin increases in diameter, its speed must be 
 accelerated so that it shall wind the same length that the front roll 
 delivers. 
 
 With the "Bobbin Lead" which is used upon the fly frame, 
 the flyer is run at a constant speed but less than that of the bobbin. 
 The roving is drawn onto the surface of the bobbin by the excess 
 of its speed over that of the flyer, and as the bobbin increases in 
 
 L / 
 
 diameter, its speed must be decreased gradually. 
 
 It would seem that, with the "flyer lead," to increase the speed 
 of the bobbin woald cause a greater length of roving to be wound 
 
 Fig. 162. 
 Enlarged View of Spindles. 
 
 233 
 
and, as this is puzzling to many, it will bear further explanation. 
 
 We will call the speed of the flyer 200 R.P.M. and "the speed 
 of the empty bobbin, which is one inch in diameter, 100 R.P.M. 
 As the circumference of a one inch bobbin is 3.14+ inches, each 
 revolution that the flyer makes, more than the bobbin, will wind 
 3.14-|- inches of roving, and while the flyer is making two hundred 
 revolutions, 314 -f inches of roving will be wound upon the bobbin. 
 
 When the bobbin is two inches in diameter, its circumference 
 is 6.28 -f inches, and if the flyer and the bobbin continue to run at 
 
 NO.2 
 
 Fig. 163. Diagram Illustrating Flyer Lead. 
 
 the same relative speed, two hundred revolutions of the flyer will 
 cause 628 inches of roving to be wound. 
 
 The diagrams, shown in Fig. 163, will help to make this plain. 
 Number 1 shows the flyer as having made one-half of a revolution, 
 from A to B, and the empty bobbin, which we will call one inch 
 in diameter, one-quarter of a revolution, from C to D. The length 
 of roving wound will be equal to the distance around the barrel of 
 the bobbin from D to E, which is one-quarter of its circumference 
 or about .78 of an inch. 
 
 Number 2 shows the bobbin as two inches in diameter; the 
 flyer has made one-half of a revolution, from A to B, and the bob- 
 bin has made one-quarter of a revolution, from C to D. The 
 length wound is indicated by the distance measured around the 
 bobbin, from D to E, which is 1.57 inches; twice as much as the 
 empty bobbin. 
 
 Now, as the speed of the flyer is constant and the length of 
 roving delivered is always the same, it is evident that the amount, 
 wound upon the bobbin, can be only what is delivered by the front 
 roll and as the larger the bobbin grows the greater is its circum- 
 
 234 
 
3 
 J 
 
 li 
 
 !> e 
 
 . a 
 
 S '? 
 o 3 
 
 fa 
 
 I 3 
 
 w < 
 
 < bo 
 
 fa I 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 193 
 
 ference, the only way that the same length of roving can be wound 
 is by increasing the speed of the bobbin so that the same ratio in its 
 
 circumferential velocity shall be maintained 'at all times between it 
 and the flyer. 
 
 239 
 
194 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 Number 3 shows the bobbin as two inches in diameter, and, in 
 order to wind the proper length of roving, it will have to make 
 about three-eighths of a revolution. The length wound is repre- 
 sented by the distance, D-E, which, measured on the circumference 
 of the bobbin, will be found to be the same as the distance D-E, 
 in the first diagram. 
 
 The bobbin lead needs no further explanation than has been 
 already given; the larger the bobbin grows, the slower it must run 
 to wind the roving at the same speed, at all times. 
 
 Gearing. The reduction in the speed of the bobbin is accom- 
 plished by a pair of cones in connection with the differential gear, 
 and to enable the student to follow clearly the gearing diagram, 
 Fi 7.164 has been made. 
 
 o 
 
 Speed of Flyer. The speed of the driving shaft, which is con- 
 stant, is 400 R.P.M., and the flyers are driven from the driving shaft 
 by the gears, G 1 , H 3 , T 1 and L l . They therefore run 1254.54 R. 
 P.M. 
 
 60 ? * X 400 = 
 
 40 X 22 
 
 Speed of front Roll. The front roll, which is 1^ inches in 
 diameter, is also driven from the driving shaft by the gears,A 3 , 
 N 2 , K 3 and L 3 . The speed of the front rolls remains constant, except 
 when a change is made in the number of roving being spun. This 
 is accomplished by changing the number of teeth in the twist gear, 
 A*. For 3.50 hank roving, the twist gear should have 40 teeth. 
 The speed of the front roll, therefore, is 157.72 R.P.M. 
 40X97X400 
 
 _ 1577g 
 60 X 164 
 
 Speed of Empty Bobbin. The barrel of the empty bobbin is 
 If inches in diameter and to wind onto its surface the roving de- 
 live-ed by the front roll, it must make 129.03 R.P.M. 
 
 157.72 X 1.125 (diameter of the front roll) 2q . 
 
 1.375 (diameter of empty bobbin) 
 
 As we have seen, the speed of the flyer is 1254.54 R.P.M., and 
 the speed of the empty bobbin, necessary to wind the roving, is 
 129.03 R.P.M. 
 
 Now, as the bobbins run at a greater speed than the flyers, the 
 
 236 
 
COTTON SPINNING 195 
 
 actual speed of the bobbins must be added to that of the flyers. This 
 will give 1383.57 R.P.M. 
 
 Revolutions of flyers 1254.5-4 
 
 Revolutions of empty bobbins 
 
 necessary to wind roving 129.03 
 
 Actual revolution of empty bobbins 1383.57 
 
 "When the bobbin is full, it is 3^ inches in diameter and to 
 wind the roving, it must make 50.09 R.P.M. 
 
 157.72 X 1.125 (diameter of front roll) _ ~ 
 
 3.5 (diameter of full bobbin) 
 
 To this sj>eed should be added, as before, the revolutions of the 
 flyer, which makes the actual speed of the full bobbin 1305.23 R. 
 P.M. 
 
 Revolutions of full bobbin required to wind roving 50.69- 
 Revolutions of flyers 1254.54 
 
 Actual revolutions of full bobbin 1305.23 
 
 The next step is to find the revolutions of the sleeve gear, T, 
 when winding upon the bare bobbin. The gears in the train are 
 M 1 , N>, U and T. The sleeve gear makes 441.13 R.P.M. 
 
 1383.57 X 22 X 42 
 
 - = 441.13 
 46 x 63 
 
 With the full bobbin, the revolutions of the sleeve gear will 
 be 416.16 R.P M. 
 
 1305.23 X 22 x 42 
 -- TO - rrrr = 416.16 
 .46 x 63 
 
 Now, we must find the revolutions of the sun wheel, S,but 
 before this is done, it will be necessary to refer to the compound, 
 or differential gearing shown in an enlarged view in Fig. 165. 
 The purpose of this train of gears is to connect the positive driv- 
 ing of the flyers with the necessarily varying speed of the bobbins 
 by a pair of cones and a belt. 
 
 The sleeve gear, T, runs upon a bushing on the driving shaft, 
 and turns in the opposite direction from it, as indicated by the 
 arrows. The two mitre gears, A 1 , of forty-two teeth, are carried by 
 a cross, the extended arms of which form bearings for the gears to 
 tnrn upon. The sun wheel and cross are fastened together and 
 
 237 
 
196 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 turn upon a bushing on the driving shaft, the same as the sleeve 
 gear. The mitre gear, L 2 , is fast upon the driving shaft and the 
 mitre gear, S 1 , is fast upon the hub of the sleeve gear. 
 
 The gears, S 1 and L 2 , turn in .opposite directions and, if they 
 are run at the same speed, the sun wheel will remain stationary. 
 But if S 1 is run at a greater speed than L 2 , each revolution it 
 makes in excess of L 2 will cause the sun wheel to make one-half 
 of a revolution in the same direction as S 1 . 
 
 To illustrate this: If S 1 is given four revolutions and L 2 , two 
 
 60 
 
 Fig. 165. Fly Frame Differential Gearing. 
 
 revolutions, in the opposite direction, the sun wheel will turn one 
 revolution or one-half the difference between the revolutions of 
 the gears, S 1 and L 2 , but in the direction of S 1 . 
 
 The speed of the driving shaft is 400 R.P.M. and, as we have 
 found, the speed of the loose sleeve is 441.13 R.P.M. but in the 
 opposite direction. The sun wheel, then, must make 20.56 R.P.M., 
 which is one-half the difference between the speed of the driving 
 shaft and the speed of the sleeve gear. 
 
 With the full bobbin, the sleeve gear makes 41(3.16 R.P.M., 
 
 o 
 
 which is 16.16 revolutions more than the speed of the driving 
 shaft. The speed of the sun wheel will be 8.0.8 R.P.M., a dif- 
 ference of only 12.78 revolutions between the full and the empty 
 bobbin. 
 
 We must find next the revolutions of the bottom cone, B 8 , for 
 
 238 
 
COTTON SPINNING 197 
 
 both the full and the empty bobbin. The sun wheel is driven from 
 the bottom cone by the gears, C 2 , R 2 , Q, P 1 and O. Starting with 
 20.56 revolutions we get 187.04+ R.P.M. for the bottom cone. 
 
 20.56 x 150 x 68 x 68 
 
 25 x 68 x 22 
 
 = 381.29 + 
 
 With the full bobbin, the speed of the bottom cone will be 149.84 + 
 R.P.M. 
 
 8.08 x 150 x6X8_ _ U9 84 
 
 25 x 68 x 22 
 
 Cones. We will find next the sizes the cones must be to give the 
 necessary range in speed. The top or driving cone, C 3 , is driven from 
 the driving shaft by the gears, A 3 , H 4 and N 2 . A 3 is the twist gear, as 
 already mentioned. The speed of the top cone is 266.66 + R.P.M. 
 
 400 * 40 . 266.66+ ' 
 60 
 
 The diameter of the large end of the top cone is six inches and the 
 small end three inches. The bottom cone is the same in diameter at 
 the ends as the top cone. With the cone belt upon the large end of the 
 top cone, the speed of the bottom cone will be 533.33 -f R.P.M. 
 
 266.66 X 6 
 
 = o33.33 + 
 
 o 
 
 With the cone belt at the small end of the top cone, the speed of 
 the bottom cone will be 133.33 + R.P.M. 
 
 266.66 X 3 
 
 6 
 
 = 133.33 + 
 
 With the cones of the diameter, at the ends, as given above, the 
 difference in the extreme speeds of the bottom cone is 400 R.P.M. 
 and the difference in the speeds, required to wind a full bobbin, is 
 231.45 R.P.M. 
 
 The cones may be made any diameter or length consistent with 
 the allotted space in the machine, but the difference between the diam- 
 eters of the small and large ends must be more than enough to give the 
 extreme speeds necessary to wind a bobbin. 
 
 The faces of the cones are curved, the top cone concave and the 
 bottom cone convex. 
 
 239 
 
198 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 The cone belt is upon the large end of the top cone when the 
 winding begins and, as each successive layer of roving is added, it is 
 shifted a little distance along the cones, according to the hank roving, 
 being spun. With coarse numbers, the size of the bobbin increases 
 rapidly, and it requires a greater movement of the cone belt than when 
 fine numbers are being spun. 
 
 To illustrate this: A pair of cones and four bobbins, in different 
 
 BOBBIN I' DIA 
 SPEED 1200 RPM 
 
 BOBBIN 2' DIA 
 SPEED 600 R. P.M. 
 
 BOBBIN 3" DIA. 
 SPEED 400 RPM. 
 
 BOBBIN 4' DIA. 
 SPEED300R.PM. 
 
 Fig. 166. Diagram of Cones. 
 
 stages of building, are shown in Fig. 166. The diameter of the empty 
 bobbin is one inch and that of the full bobbin, four inches. The rov- 
 ing, which we will call one-sixteenth inch in diameter, will add one- 
 eighth of an inch to the diameter of the bobbin for each layer wound. 
 We will call the speed of the empty bobbin 1200 R.P.M., which 
 is three times that of the bottom cone and, as the bobbin is 3.14 -f 
 
 240 
 
COTTON SPINNING 199 
 
 inches in circumference, there will be wound 3768 inches of roving. 
 
 3.14X1200 = 3768. 
 
 When eight layers have been added, the bobbin will be two inches 
 in diameter or 6. 28+ inches in circumference and to wind 3768 inches 
 of roving, its speed must be 600 R.P.M. 
 
 The belt will have made eight shifts along the cone, from A to B, 
 and the speed of the bottom cone will be 200 R.P.M. 
 
 When sixteen layers of roving have been wound the diameter of 
 the bobbin will be three inches and the circumference will be 9.42 
 inches. To wind 3768 inches, its speed must be 400 R.P.M. 
 
 The belt will have moved from B to C and the speed of the bottom 
 cone will be 133.33 R.P.M. 
 
 When the bobbin is full, twenty-four layers have been added to 
 make four inches in diameter and its circumference will be 12.56 -f- 
 inches. The speed must be 300 R.P.M. 
 
 = 300. 
 12.56 
 
 The movement of the cone belt, from A to B, is one-third the 
 length of the cones, but the speed of the bobbin decreases one-half, 
 from 1200 td 600 R.P.M. From B to C the distance is one-third and 
 the bobbin decreases in speed from 600 to 400 R.P.M., only one-third. 
 The remaining distance, C D, is one-third and the speed decreases 
 from 400 to 300 R.P.M. or one quarter the number of revolutions. 
 
 If the roving were twice the diameter, it would be necessary to 
 shift the cone belt just twice as far along the cones and there would be 
 four layers, only, for each inch added to the diameter of the bobbin. 
 
 Reversing Motion. The reversing motion, commonly called 
 rail motion and traverse motion, is the mechanism employed to change 
 the direction of the bobbin rail at each end of the traverse. 
 
 At the beginning of a set, the rail moves its greatest distance and 
 the roving is wound nearly the whole length of the bobbin, as shown in 
 
 241 
 
200 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 T 
 
 Fig. 167, by the distance C D. As each layer is added, the traverse 
 of the rail is shortened, slightly, until, at the completion. of the building 
 of the bobbin, it is a little more than one-half as much as at the start. 
 This is shown by the distance E F. The amount that the traverse is 
 shortened is governed by the taper gear F 3 (shown in Fig. 168), and 
 the speed that the rail is traversed, by the lay gear E 1 . 
 
 It is desirable to get as much roving upon a bobbin as possible, as 
 the machine will not have to be doffed as often but, at the same time, 
 
 if the traverse is not shortened enough, 
 the ends of the bobbins will be too square, 
 and the layers of roving will be apt to 
 "slough off" and the roving break when 
 unwound. 
 
 The reversing motion is shown in 
 Figs. 168, 169, 170, 171 and 172. 
 
 On the end of the top cone shaft, X 1 , 
 is a bevel gear, X, of nineteen teeth and 
 upon the top of the tumbling shaft, Y 2 , is 
 a bevel gear, Y, of forty teeth, called the 
 gap gear from the fact that several teeth 
 are omitted on opposite sides in its diam- 
 eter, leaving spaces in which the gear on 
 the cone shaft can revolve without im- 
 parting motion to the tumbling shaft. 
 
 In n ic rl ' 
 
 Fig. 167. Fly Frame Bobbin. 
 
 Lower, on the tumbling shaft is the tumbling dog, F 3 , and on the 
 extreme lower end is a mitre gear, H 2 . 
 
 On the horizontal shaft, K 2 , called the reverse shaft, is the reverse 
 crank, T 2 , starting cam, W, and mitre gear, H 2 . The last is in gear 
 with the gear, H 2 , on the tumbling shaft. 
 
 Builder. The builder, which should be described in connection 
 with the reversing motion, consists of a main piece, B 2 , builder screw, 
 D 2 , with right and left threads, builder rack, I 2 , and top and bottom 
 jaws, V, and, X 2 . A gear J 3 , which is upon the lifting shaft, A 2 , is in 
 contact with the builder rack. The rotations of the lifting shaft cause 
 the builder to slide up and down on the guide rod, W 1 . . 
 
 On the stem of the builder screw is a gear, Z 1 , of twenty teeth, 
 which is driven from a similar gear, V 2 , of twenty-eight teeth, which is 
 upon the stud with the taper gear, F 3 . Motion is given to the builder 
 
 243 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 201 
 
 243 
 
202 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 screw from the cone rack, I 3 , by the taper gear. At each end of the 
 traverse, the builder screw is turned a trifle and the jaws are brought 
 more closely together. The builder and parts directly connected are 
 shown on an enlarged scale in Fig. 170. 
 
 When the bobbin rail is moving upward, the builder is moving in 
 the opposite direction. In the drawing, Fig. 170 5 we will assume that 
 the builder is going downward. The upper arm of the tumbling dog, 
 F-, is pressed firmly against the top builder by the starting spring, U 1 . 
 When the builder descends enough to clear the arm of the tumbling 
 dog, several changes take place instantly. 
 
 The starting presser, T 3 , which is actuated by the spring, U 1 , 
 
 FLOOR LINE 
 
 Fig. 169. Elevation Showing Starting Cam. 
 
 turns the tumbling shaft slightly so that the bevel on the top cone shaft, 
 which is revolving rapidly, engages the toothed portion of the gap gear 
 and gives the tumbling shaft one-half of a revolution. 
 
 The reverse shaft, which is driven from the tumbling shaft, also 
 turns half around and shifts the reverse gearing, changing the direction 
 of the bobbin rail. 
 
 The tension gearing, which is driven from the bevel gear, E 5 , on 
 the reverse shaft, is turned a little and the cone rack is moved and 
 shifts the belt along the cones. 
 
 The taper gear is driven from the cone rack, and is turned part of 
 
 244 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 203 
 
 a revolution, and the builder jaws are brought together more closely, 
 thus shortening the traverse of the rail. 
 
 All these movements take place simultaneously, the half revolu- 
 tion of the tumbling shaft brings the opposite space in the gap gear 
 
 j 
 
 Q 
 
 (I 
 
 Q 
 
 n 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 SIDE VIEW 
 
 END VIEW 
 
 Fig. 170. Builder. 
 
 under the top cone shaft bevel, and the lower arm of the tumbling dog 
 is brought up against the lower builder jaw, where it is held firmly by 
 the starting cam and presser. This leaves the various parts in position 
 to operate, when the end of the traverse is reached again. 
 
 245 
 
204 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 The drawings of the reverse gearing, in Figs. 171 and 172, show 
 the method employed to change the direction of the traverse of the rail. 
 
 On the reverse shaft, K 2 , is a crank, T 2 , which works in a slot in 
 the end of the reverse arm, O 3 . The upper part of this arm is con- 
 nected to a plate, W 4 , which is mounted upon the shaft, U 2 , and carries 
 studs upon which are the gears, A 4 , B 5 and C 8 . The gear X 3 , is upon 
 
 Fig. 171. Elevation Showing Reverse Crank arid Gearing. 
 
 the lay shaft and D 8 is upon the shaft, U 2 . The connection of these 
 shafts and gears with the lifting shaft is shown in the diagram of gear- 
 ing (Fig. 164). 
 
 When the rail is rising, the lifting shaft is driven through the gears, 
 D 8 and C 6 , and gear, X 3 , is turned in the direction, indicated by the 
 arrow in Fig. 171. But when the reverse shaft makes the half revolu- 
 tion, the crank shifts the reverse arm, which turns about the shaft U 2 , 
 as a center, to the position shown in Fig. 172; This throws C 6 out of 
 contact with X 3 , and A 4 into contact with it, and X 3 is driven by the 
 gears, D 8 , B 5 and A 4 , which results in changing the direction of the lay 
 shaft, as may be seen by comparing the two drawings. 
 
 246 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 205 
 
 The teeth of X 3 , C 6 and A 4 are made pointed so that they may 
 engage readily. This overcomes also, in a measure, the danger of 
 breaking, always liable to occur with involute teeth if the points come 
 into contact. 
 
 Tension gearing for fly frames is shown in Fig. 173 and, to make 
 this drawing as simple as possible, all parts, which are -not required 
 in explaining the device, are 
 omitted. Reference should also 
 be made to Fig. 168. 
 
 The cone rack, I 3 , is driven 
 from the reverse shaft, K 2 , by 
 the gears, E 5 , F, G 5 , H 6 , B 1 , J 4 
 and V 1 . The bevel, E 5 , is keyed 
 to the reverse shaft but is free to 
 slide in and out of gear with F 6 . 
 
 When the machine is start- 
 ed, the shipper rod, K 4 , is moved 
 in the direction of the arrow and 
 the dog, L 4 , comes in contact with 
 the stop-motion arm, I 1 , which 
 turns about the stud, M 4 . This 
 moves the stop motion latch, Z 3 , 
 so that the notch, N 5 , catches on 
 the support, H 1 , and holds the 
 latch in place. 
 
 The bevel, E 5 , is formed with 
 an annular groove in which is a fork, Z, pivoted to a stand at Z 6 . 
 The upright arm of the fork is connected with the stop motion latch 
 by a rod, I. In starting the frame, the movement of the latch draws 
 the gear, E 5 , into contact with F 6 This completes the train of gears 
 so that the half revolution of the reverse shaft, which takes place at 
 each end of the traverse, causes the cone belt to be moved to a differ- 
 ent place on the cone. 
 
 The gear, B 1 , is the tension gear, which is changed to give the 
 correct distance that the cone belt must be moved, and, as this gear is a 
 driver, the greater number of teeth it contains, the greater will be the 
 distance that the cone belt is moved. 
 
 When the attendant wishes to stop the machine, the shipper rod 
 
 Fig. 172. Elevation Showing Reverse 
 Crank and Gearing. 
 
 247 
 
206 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 is moved in the opposite direction from that indicated by the arrow 
 and the belt is shifted onto the loose pulley. This movement does not 
 disconnect the train of gears, between the reverse shaft and cone rack 
 as the stop-motion latch is not moved. 
 
 Full Bobbin Stop Motion. When the bobbin has reached its full 
 diameter, it is stopped automatically, and while it is not necessary to 
 
 Fig. 173. Tension Gearing. 
 
 wait for this stop motion to operate before doffing, it acts as a safe- 
 guard, for, if the frame is allowed to run too long, there is danger of 
 the builder jaws coming together, which often results in stripping the 
 builder screw. There is also some difficulty in doffing, if the bobbin 
 is too large. 
 
 This stop motion, which is shown in Figs. 174 and 175, and in the 
 
 248 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 207 
 
 drawing of the reverse motion and builder Fig. 168, consists of three 
 pieces, a bracket, D, lifter, C, and cam, B. 
 
 The bracket, which is fastened to the cone rack, I 3 , by a screw, F, 
 carries the lifter, and the cam is fastened to the lifting shaft, A 2 , at a 
 point directly under the end of the stop-motion latch, Z', which pro- 
 jects through the rectangular slot in the support, H 1 . 
 
 As the lifting shaft revolves, the cam is brought into contact with 
 the lifter, forcing it upward against the underside of the stop-motion 
 latch and lifting the latch so that the notch, N J , in its underside, is clear 
 of the support. 
 
 The stop-motion spring, W 3 , is mounted upon the spring rod, M 3 . 
 One end of the spring bears against the support and the other end 
 
 A* 
 Fig. 174. Full Bobbin Stop Motion. 
 
 against a collar, P 6 , which is fastened to the rod and which may be set 
 to increase or decrease the tension upon the spring. The free end of 
 the spring rod passes through a hole in the support, and the other 
 end is connected to the stop-motion latch. 
 
 When the notch in the latch is clear of the support, the spring rod 
 pushes the latch in the direction shown by the arrow and this move- 
 ment is communicated to the shipper rod by the shipper arm, I 1 . 
 
 When the frame is to be doffed, the attendant raises the bottom 
 cone, B 3 , by turning the cone raise handle, W 8 , a half revolution. This 
 leaves the cone belt free and the cone rack is moved back, for starting 
 a new set of bobbins, by turning the hand wheel, S 6 . A collar on the 
 
 249 
 
208 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 rack comes against a stop, which insures the belt starting in the same 
 position, on the face of the cone, for each set. 
 
 When the stop motion operates, the movement of the lever, Z 3 , 
 disconnects the tension gearing by sliding E 5 out of contact with F 6 . 
 This allows the cone belt to be wound back which cannot be done with 
 these gears in contact, and as the builder screw is driven from the cone 
 rack, the winding back of the rack opens the builder jaws. 
 
 Before doffing, the frame is started with the bottom cone raised 
 and a few inches of roving are delivered by the front roll to be used for 
 
 Fig. 175. Full Boobin Stop Motion. 
 
 twisting around the empty bobbins. The bobbins are driven from 
 the bottom cone through the differential gearing and, with the cone 
 raised, they do not revolve, consequently, the roving is not wound. 
 
 The power for driving the bobbins and the traverse of the rail is 
 transmitted through the cone belt and, for this reason, there must be as 
 little slip as possible to this belt. The bottom cone is iron and it is 
 carried in a frame, H 8 , called the cone swing frame. It is hung from 
 the shaft, Y 3 . The weight of the cone hangs upon the cone belt, D 3 , 
 and keeps it tight. 
 
 The connection, from the bottom cone to the gearing, is through 
 the cone gear, C 2 , which has twenty-two teeth. This gear is some- 
 times changed when the diameter of the empty bobbin is so small that 
 the difference in the diameters of the cones, with the belt upon the large 
 end of the top cone, is not sufficient to wind the roving. ' When this 
 is the case, a cone gear of more teeth is put on the cone, which causes 
 
 250 
 
as "- 
 o 6 
 
 3 o 
 
 W * 
 
 s ? 
 
 w 3 
 
 S "E 1 
 
 CJ 
 
 5 
 
 Qu 
 (A 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 209 
 
 the bobbins to run at a greater speed. The cone belt is then shifted 
 along the cones until the position of the belt is such that the roving 
 "takes up" or winds correctly. 
 
 The taper gear, F 3 , has from eleven to fourteen teeth. This is a 
 driven gear and the fewer teeth it has, the faster the builder jaws close. 
 The end bearing, X 5 , for the top cone shaft, is open on the top so that 
 the cone may lift, if the tops of the tee " come together, when the gap 
 gear is thrown in. 
 
 Back Stop Motion. Sometimes, a back stop motion is applied to 
 the slubber, so the machine will stop when an end is out, but is not 
 applied to any other fly frame. By many, a back stop motion is con- 
 
 Fig. 176. Section of Fly Frame Showing Back Stop Motion. 
 
 sidered unnecessary because if there is none, the attendant will watch 
 for a broken end in the sliver, and will anticipate a can becoming empty 
 and piece the sliver onto a full can, whereas, with a stop motion, he 
 knows the machine will stop when an end is out and he becomes in- 
 attentive and allows the machine to stand idle too long before piecing 
 up. 
 
 Fig. 176 shows a section of a slubber fly frame fitted with a back 
 stop motion. The sliver, A, is lifted out of the cans by the carrier roll, 
 Q 1 , and passes over the stop-motion spoon, G 2 , and between the three 
 pairs of draft rolls to the flyer, G. 
 
 Directly beneath the tail of each spoon is a finger L, mounted on 
 the rocker shaft, T 2 . Motion is given to the rocker shaft from an 
 eccentric, J, which runs loose upon the top cone shaft, X 1 , but is driven 
 from the top cone shaft by a train of gears. By this means the eccen- 
 tric is given a much slower speed than the cone shaft. 
 
 The carrier roll, Q l , is driven from the end of the back roll by the 
 
 251 
 
210 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 sprocket chain, D 4 , and the sprocket wheels, L 2 and N. The connec- 
 tion between the rocker shaft and eccentric is through the eccentric 
 arm, S, rocker, T, link, P, and, arm, R. 
 
 . The rocker is hung in the bottom of a slot, Y, in the stand, V, and 
 
 the pin, M, upon which the rocker 
 is hung, projects into a hole in the 
 lever, X, and in its normal position, 
 is kept from rising by the spring, 
 W. The arm, R, is keyed to the 
 rocker shaft which is given a re- 
 ciprocal motion by the revolutions 
 of the eccentric. 
 
 The stop-motion spoons are 
 mounted in stands and are so bal- 
 anced that the friction of the sliver, 
 
 Fig. 177. Back Stop Motion. 
 
 in passing over them, holds the 
 tails clear of the path of the fin- 
 ger, L. 
 
 When the machine is started 
 the spring rod, K, which moves 
 with the shipper rod, slides 
 along until a slot cut in its upper 
 surface is beneath one end of 
 the lever, X. When this happens, 
 X, which is pivoted at Z, drops 
 into the slot and holds the rod 
 stationary until X is lifted out of 
 the slot. 
 
 If a sliver breaks or runs out, the spoon assumes a vertical posi- 
 tion, immediately, and the tail is brought into the path of the finger 
 which arrests the movements of the rocker shaft. As soon as this 
 occurs, the fulcrum of the rocker, T, is transferred from the pin, M, 
 
 Fig. 178. Back Stop Motion. 
 
 252 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 211 
 
 in the slot of the stand, to the pin, W 2 , in the lower end of the link, P. 
 The spring, W, yields and allows the eccentric to lift the pin, M, and 
 with it the lever, X, withdrawing X from the slot in the spring rod, 
 which is released and the belt is shipped. 
 
 Figs. 177 and 178 show the positions of the levers when the ma- 
 chine is running and when the stop motion operates. A weight, F, 
 mounted upon a rod, may be moved in or out as a counterbalance for 
 the spoon G 3 to accommodate a heavy or light sliver. 
 
 The roll stand, for carrying the steel fluted rolls, is shown in Fig. 
 
 Fig. 179. Roll Stand. 
 
 179. This stand consists of four parts: the main piece, A, the two 
 slides or bearings, B and C, for the middle and back rolls, and the 
 bracket, D, upon which the top roll clearer is hinged. The bearing 
 for the front roll is usually lined with bronze as the wear on the front 
 roll's bearing is much greater than upon the bearings for the other rolls 
 The slides are screwed to the main part of the stand and are ar- 
 
 253 
 
212 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 ranged so that they may be adjusted to suit the various lengths of 
 staple. The slide for the back roll is slotted for a bearing for the 
 roving traverse rod, L, and for the rod, O, upon which the wires, E, 
 supporting the cap bar nebs F, G, and H, are fastened. The front 
 neb, F, is made with projections above and below. The upper one 
 serves as a stop for the top clearer and the lower one as a support for 
 holding the nebs on center with the axis of the top rolls. A detached 
 view of the cap bar is shown in Fig. 180. 
 
 The wires, E, are flattened, slightly, upon the upper surface, 
 where the screws bear, to hold the nebs in place, which insures their 
 standing perfectly true with the top rolls. 
 
 The spaces in the nebs into which the gudgeons of the top rolls 
 
 a Ha 
 
 G H 
 
 PLAN 
 
 END VIEW 
 
 G H 
 
 SIDE VIEW 
 
 Fig. 180. Cap Bar. 
 
 project, are made wide enough to allow perfect freedom to the top rolls 
 but with not enough play to allow them to get out of line with the steel 
 rolls. 
 
 The top rolls, for the front line, are usually shell rolls and for the 
 middle and back lines, solid rolls. The top roll clearer is shown in 
 Fig. 179 and is similar to the common clearer used upon the drawing 
 frame. A flat board, K, is faced on the underside with clearer cloth, 
 supported by wires. The board, which is carried in a frame, R, is 
 hinged upon the rod, S, and is hung so that it adjusts itself to the posi- 
 tion of the top rolls. The under clearer, N, which is seldom used upon 
 anything but the slubber fly frame, is held in place by straps which 
 have a weight, P, suspended from the end. 
 
 Sometimes, self-weighted top rolls are used on fly frames intended 
 for working long stock and for fine counts of yarn. A roll stand, with 
 
 254 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 213 
 
 top rolls of this kind, is shown in Fig. 181. The front and back steel 
 rolls are one and one-quarter inches in diameter and the middle roll is 
 one and one-eighth inches in diameter. The front top roll is the usual 
 shell roll, weighed in the ordinary way by a hook, A, stirrup, B, and 
 weight, C. 
 
 The middle top roll usually is made of thin, brass tubing, one and 
 
 Fig. 181. Roll Stand for Self- Weighted Top Rolls. 
 
 one-eighth inches in diameter, filled with lead to give it additional 
 weight, and sometimes of cast iron. The gudgeons, for this roll, are 
 of iron wire put through the lead. 
 
 255 
 
214 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 The back top roll is made of cast iron, two inches to two and one- 
 half inches in diameter. Both of the top rolls are sometimes covered 
 with leather. 
 
 The top clearers for self-weighted rolls are usually rotary, either 
 conical or straight. They are shown in Fig. 182. 
 
 The conical clearer roll is made of wood, covered with clearer 
 
 Fig. 182. Top Clearer Rolls. 
 
 cloth. The large end bears upon all of the top rolls and the small end 
 bears upon the middle and front rolls only. As the front roll runs at a 
 much greater speed than the middle and back rolls, the clearer must 
 partake of an intermediate speed to collect the loose fibers. When 
 the frame is in operation, the conical shape of the clearer causes it to 
 travel along the rolls slowly. Upon reaching the end of the frame, it is 
 
 
 ROLL 24" LONG 
 
 DOUBLE BOSS ROLL 6" SPACE 
 
 I ROU. to" LONG ; 
 
 SNGLE BOSS ROUL 6" SPACE 
 
 Fig. 183. Single and Double Boss Rolls. 
 
 reversed by the attendant and it works back to the other end. A 
 straight roll is sometimes used with the conical roll, placed ahead and 
 pushed along by it. 
 
 When straight clearer rolls are used, they are made of a diameter 
 to bear upon all of the top rolls. They are made in short lengths, two 
 for each roll stand. 
 
 Fluted Rolls. The fluted rolls, for slubbers and intermediate fly 
 frames, are made "single boss." For fly frames of five and a quarter 
 and six inch space, they are made either "single boss" or "double 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 215 
 
 boss", but for all fly frames under five and a quarter inch space they 
 are made "double boss" only. 
 
 The terms "single boss" and "double boss" mean the number of 
 ends of roving to each fluted boss of the roll. On a slubber, nine and 
 one-half inch space, the rolls are nineteen inches long, which is the 
 distance between the centers of the roll stands. There are four bosses 
 
 ( 
 
 WEIGHT 
 
 WEIGHT 
 
 Fig. l&J. Weighting for Top Rolls. 
 
 and four spindles in this length and one end of roving for each boss 
 or single boss. 
 
 On a fly frame, four and one-half inch space, the length of the 
 roll is eighteen inches. There are eight spindles in this distance, 
 which is too short to allow eight separate bosses and still have room 
 for the weight stirrups and saddles, which must hang between every 
 two bosses. To provide for this, the rolls are made with bosses long 
 enough to permit of two ends of roving, side by side, or "double boss." 
 
 Fig. 183 shows two steel fluted rolls for a six inch space fly frame 
 
 257 
 
216 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 and the leather covered top rolls for each roll. The upper fluted roll 
 is double boss and is twenty-four inches long and the lower one is 
 single boss and is eighteen inches long. There are four bosses and 
 eight ends for the double boss and six bosses and six ends for the single 
 boss. The roving is represented by the lines, R, and the weight is 
 hung between the bosses at W. There is one weight for four ends on 
 the double boss and one weight for two ends on the single boss. The 
 double boss rolls are seldom, if ever, used on any space more than six 
 inches, as the length of the boss would be so great that the weights 
 would have a tendency to spring the steel rolls enough to cause the top 
 rolls to bear unevenly. 
 
 The usual method of weighting the top draft roll is shown in 
 Figure 184. For the front roll a separate weight is used which is hung 
 from a stirrup, 3, and hook, T. For the middle and back rolls, the 
 weight is divided. The stirrup is hung from a saddle, F, by a hook 
 T, and the saddle bears upon the middle and back top rolls. 
 
 For the slubbers, eight and one-half inch space and over, weights 
 are usually eighteen pounds. For intermediate frames, they are 
 seventeen pounds and for fine frames, seventeen pounds. For single 
 boss rolls, six inch space, they are twelve pounds. For fine frames, five 
 and one-quarter inch space or under, and all jack frames, the weights 
 are fifteen pounds. Sometimes a separate weight is used for each roll. 
 The weights may then be: 
 
 
 Front Roll 
 
 Middle Roll 
 
 Back Roll 
 
 Slubber 
 
 18 
 
 14 
 
 10 
 
 Intermediate 
 
 14 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 Fine and Jack - 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 Double Boss Fine Frame 
 
 18 
 
 14 
 
 12 
 
 Fly frames are built both right and left hand. A frame is said to 
 be right hand, when, in standing on the front or spindle side and facing 
 the machine, the pulley is on the right hand end. 
 
 By the gauge or space of a fly frame is meant the distance between 
 the centers of two adjoining spindles in the same row. The slubbers 
 are build eight and one-half inch, nine inch, nine and one-half inch, 
 and ten inch space. Intermediates are built seven inch, and seven 
 and one-half inch space. Fine frames are built five and one-quarter 
 
 258 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 217 
 
 inch and six inch space; and jack frames, three and three-quarters 
 inch, four and one-quarter inch, and four and one-half inch space. 
 
 Frame 
 
 Space 
 
 Size of 
 Bobbin 
 
 Speed of 
 Flyer 
 
 No. of 
 Spindle 
 per Roll 
 
 Weight of 
 Cotton on 
 Full 
 Bobbin 
 
 Length of 
 Roll 
 
 Traverse 
 of Frame 
 
 Slubber 
 
 10" 
 
 6" x 12" 
 
 625 
 
 4 
 
 44 oz. 
 
 20" 
 
 12" 
 
 Slubber 
 
 9%" 
 
 5%'xll" 
 
 700 
 
 4 
 
 32 oz. 
 
 19" 
 
 11" 
 
 Slubber 
 
 9" 
 
 5" x 10" 
 
 750. 
 
 4 
 
 24 oz. 
 
 18" 
 
 10" 
 
 Slubber 
 
 8%" 
 
 4%" x 9" 
 
 800 
 
 A 
 
 18 ox. 
 
 17" 
 
 9" 
 
 Intermediate 
 
 7%" 
 
 6" x 10" 
 
 82o 
 
 6 
 
 24 oz. 
 
 22%" 
 
 10" 
 
 Intermediate 
 
 7" 
 
 4i.i" x 9" 
 
 950 
 
 6 
 
 18 oz. 
 
 21" 
 
 9" 
 
 Fine 
 
 6" 
 
 4" x 8" 
 
 1100 
 
 8 
 
 14 oz. 
 
 24" 
 
 8" 
 
 Fine 
 
 *%" 
 
 3%" x 8" 
 
 1250 
 
 8 
 
 12 oz. 
 
 21" 
 
 8" 
 
 Fine 
 
 *%" 
 
 3%" x 7" 
 
 1250 
 
 8 
 
 10 oz. 
 
 21" 
 
 7" 
 
 Jack 
 
 %" 
 
 3" x 6" 
 
 1400 
 
 8 
 
 7 oz. 
 
 18" 
 
 6" 
 
 Jack 
 
 4M" 
 
 2%" x 5" 
 
 1600 
 
 8 
 
 4 oz. 
 
 17" 
 
 5" 
 
 Jack 
 
 3%" 
 
 21"x4V' 
 
 1800 
 
 12 
 
 3oz. 
 
 22%" 
 
 4%" 
 
 The fluted rolls for fly frames are made of the diameters shown 
 in Fig. 185. Those most commonly used for medium staple cotton 
 are shown in the upper view in the drawing. For Egyptian and Sea 
 Island cotton, the rolls are usually larger and of the diameters shown 
 in the middle drawing. For self-weighted top rolls, the usual diame- 
 ters are shown in the lower drawing. The diameter of the back top 
 roll is made from two to two and one-half inches to suit the weights of 
 the sliver. A heavy sliver and a long draft require the largest sized 
 roll. 
 
 Fig. 186 shows the sizes and dimensions of fly frame bobbins. 
 The dimensions vary but slightly for the different makes of fly frames. 
 The bottom of the bobbin is made with both four and six notches for 
 the dog or bobbin driver. The bobbins shown in the diagram have 
 six notches. To prevent splitting, the bottoms are either brass bound 
 or wired. 
 
 It is very necessary that the diameter of the holes in the bobbins 
 shall be exact, and to : avoid any mistakes, most mills have a standard 
 plug for each sized bobbin used, made similarly to the one shown in the 
 upper right hand corner of the drawing. This plug is made the small 
 end for the spindle hole, the large end for the bolster gear and the 
 
 259 
 
218 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 intermediate for the bolster hole. The diameter of the spindle hole 
 is about one sixty-fourth of an inch greater than the diameter of the 
 spindle; the hole in the bottom of the bobbin is one thirty-second of 
 an inch larger in diameter than the bobbin gear, and the bolster hole 
 is about one-sixteenth of an inch larger in diameter than the bolster. 
 
 SLUBBER AND 
 
 INTERMEDIATE 
 
 FINE: AND JACK 
 
 MEDIUM STAPLE 
 
 SLUBBER AND 
 
 INTERMEDIATE 
 
 FINE AND JACK 
 
 LONG STAPLE 
 
 i*-4 if > 
 
 INTERMEDIATES FINE AND JACK 
 
 SELF WEIGHTED ROLLS. 
 Fig. 185. S.zes of Steel Fluted Rolls. 
 
 To find the length of a fly frame: Multiply one half the number 
 of spindles by the space in inches and add 38 inches. 
 
 The power required to drive fly frame spindles is as follows: 
 Slubbers 35 to 45 spindles per H. P. 
 
 Intermediates 65 to 75 " " <' 
 
 Fine and Jack frames 95 to 105 " '' 
 
 Calculations. The general diagram of fly frame gearing, given 
 
 260 
 
COTTON SPINNING 219 
 
 in Fig. 164, shows all of the gears necessary in calculations, but, to 
 avoid confusion, the draft gearing is shown separately in Fig. 187 and 
 the twist gearing in Fig. 188. 
 
 Rule 1. To find the draft of the fly frame: Multiply together 
 the driven gears and the diameter of the front roll and divide the prod- 
 uct by the product of the driving gears multiplied together with the 
 diameter of the back roll. (The driven gears are E 3 and O 1 and the 
 driving gears are M 2 and D 1 .) The front roll is 1^ inches in diame- 
 ter and the back roll is 1 inch in diameter. 
 
 T-, 100X56X9 Kr 
 
 Example: - = o.OO 
 
 37X34X8 
 
 Rule 2. To find the draft factor: Proceed as in the previous 
 rule, but omit the draft change gear D 1 . 
 
 T-, 100X56X9 
 
 Example: - = 1/0.2/ 
 
 37X8 
 
 Rule 3. To find the draft: Divide the factor by the number of 
 teeth in the draft gear. 
 
 T-, 170.27 nn 
 
 Example: = o.OO 
 
 34 
 
 Rule 4. To find the draft gear: Divide the factor by the draft. 
 
 170.27 
 Example: 
 
 5 
 
 The draft between the back roll and the middle roll is very slight 
 and is only the difference of one tooth in the gears, as will be seen by 
 referring to the diagram. On the back roll is a gear of 21 teeth and on 
 the middle roll is a gear of 20 teeth. 
 
 Sometimes the crown gear is changed, as well as the draft gear, 
 when a very fine adjustment in the draft is needed, and a difference of 
 one tooth in the draft gears makes too great a change in the draft. 
 
 The definition of the word twist, as used in reference to yarn and 
 roving, is the number of turns that the spindles or flyers make to each 
 inch of roving that is delivered by the front roll. If the spindles make 
 100 revolutions and the front roll delivers 40 inches of roving, the 
 twist will be 2.5 per inch. 100 -h 40 = 2.5. 
 
 Rule 5. To find the twist per inch : Multiply together the driven 
 gears and divide the product by the product of the driving gears multi- 
 
 261 
 
220 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 3HOH 
 V30 NIS909 
 
 262 
 
COTTON SPINNING 221 
 
 plied together with the circumference of the front roll. Assuming the 
 twist gear to be a driving gear, the driven gears are L 3 , N 2 , G 1 , and T 1 . 
 The driving gears are K 3 , A 3 , H 3 , and L 1 , and the circumference of the 
 1J inch front roll is 3. 5343 inches. 
 
 r 164X60X60X46 
 
 Example: = 2.25 
 
 97X40X40X22X3.5343 
 
 Rule 6. To find the twist factor: Proceed as in the previous 
 rule but omit the twist gear. 
 
 Example: _164X_60X 60X46 
 
 97X40X22X3.5343 
 
 Rule 7. To find the twist : Divide the twist factor by the num- 
 ber of teeth in the twist gear. 
 
 ,, 90.02 _ 
 
 Example: - = 2.2o 
 
 40 
 
 Rule 8. To find the number of teeth in the twist gear: Divide 
 the factor by the twist per inch. 
 
 QO 0? 
 
 T1 1 t/V/.V/W A f\ 
 
 Example: _^ - 40 
 
 The standard twist for roving is the square root of the hank multi- 
 plied by 1.2, and is expressed thus I 7 Hank X 1.2 
 
 This multiplier is the one that is used by most machinery builders 
 in the construction of twist tables and is correct for cotton of ordinarv 
 length staple, but for Sea Island, Egyptian and other long staple 
 cottons, the multiplier may be as low as .8, and for very short staple as 
 high as 1 .5. 
 
 All that is required is sufficient twist to hold the roving together, 
 as too much twist destroys the effectiveness of the drawing operation 
 in the successive processes. 
 
 When there is very little twist put into the roving, the production 
 of the machine is increased as the speed of the spindles is constant and 
 the front roll must run faster to give less twist. 
 
 There are several things to be considered in figuring the produc- 
 tion of the fly frame; revolutions of spindle, hank roving, twist per 
 inch, weight of cotton upon full bobbin and time lost piecing-up and 
 doffing. With these factors known, we can find the approximate 
 production. 
 
 First, it is necessary, to find the time required to spin a set of 
 
 263 
 
000 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 bobbins, then the number of sets per day, and finally the production 
 per spindle in a day of ten hours. 
 
 Rule 9. To find the time required in spinning a set of bobbins 
 on 3^ hank roving: Multiply together the number of yards in one 
 hand (840), the number of inches per yard (36), the twist per inch 
 (2.25), the number of roving (3.5), and the number of ounces of cotton 
 upon a full bobbin (10), and divide this product by the number of 
 revolutions of the spindles per minute (1250) multiplied by the number 
 of ounces in one pound (16). 
 
 840X36X2.25X3.5X10 
 
 Example: 
 
 = 119.07 
 
 1250X16 
 
 Rule 10. To find the number of sets of bobbins spun in ten 
 hours: Multiply the minutes per hour (60) by the number of hours 
 
 DRAFT GEAR 16 TO 50 TEETH. 
 
 SACK ROLL 1"D1A. 
 20 MIDDLE ROLL l"DIA 
 
 Fig. 187. Diagram of Draft Gearing. 
 
 run per day (10), less 10%, and divide this product by the number of 
 minutes occupied in spinning one set plus the number of minutes 
 required to doff a set (15). 
 
 60X9 
 
 Example: 
 
 = 4.02 
 
 119.07+15 
 
 Rule 11. To find the production in pounds of a day of ten hours : 
 Multiply together the number of sets spun in ten hours (4.02), by the 
 number of grains of cotton on a full bobbin (10 oz == 4375 Grains) 
 
 24 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 223 
 
 and divide the product by the number of grains in one pound (7000) 
 
 4.02X4375 
 
 Example : 
 
 7000 
 
 = 2.51 
 
 The time required to doff a machine will vary from ten to twenty 
 minutes according to the number of spindles in the frame and the skill 
 
 I? 
 
 FRONT ROLL 1 DIA. 
 
 m r TWIST GEAR 
 \ 16T054-TTH 
 
 SPINDLE SHAFT 
 
 Fig. 188. Diagram of Twist Gearing. 
 
 of the attendant. The time, lost in piecing broken ends and cleaning > 
 varies from 3 per cent on very fine work to as high as 25 per cent on 
 slubber roving. 
 
 The number of teeth in the tension and lay gears cannot be figured 
 with absolute certainty as the character of the stock, the amount of 
 twist in the roving and atmospheric conditions affect the winding of 
 the roving. 
 
 a5 
 
224 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 When the roving is hard twisted, it is smaller in diameter than 
 when soft twisted and does not fill the bobbin as rapidly. This con- 
 dition demands a tension gear with fewer teeth so the belt will not be 
 shifted so far along the cones or the speed of the spindle be reduced 
 to such an extent as to wind slack roving. The tension gear is a driver 
 and the greater number of teeth it contains the more the speed of the 
 bobbin is reduced at each shift of the cone belt. 
 
 The lay gear is also a driver, and, with hard twisted roving, the 
 bobbin should have more coils per inch to be wound correctly. To 
 accomplish this, the rail must be run slower, which requires a smaller 
 number of teeth in the lay gear. 
 
 If the rail is not fast enough, the coils of roving will be crowded 
 and overlap each other and a very uneven bobbin will be the result. 
 If the roving winds properly at the beginning of a set, but gets too soft 
 towards the finish, it is evident that a smaller tension gear is needed so 
 that the bobbin will run faster. If, on the other hand, the bobbin 
 becomes too hard, and the roving pulls apart towards the end of a set, 
 it indicates that a larger tension gear is needed to reduce the speed of 
 the bobbin. 
 
 On a particularly damp day, the cotton fibers are heavy, and lie 
 closely together, which makes the roving smaller in diameter and in 
 consequence the bobbins do not fill so rapidly. This causes the roving 
 to drag and not take-up, which necessitates a tension gear of one, and 
 sometimes two teeth less, so that the speed of the bobbin shall not 
 decrease so rapidly. 
 
 In the practical operation of a mill, when starting up a fly frame 
 to make a certain number of roving, the table of change gears is usually 
 consulted for the correct tension and lay gears, and while two frames 
 may not start up with gears exactly alike, a change of one or two teeth 
 is most always sufficient to produce satisfactory results. 
 
 If no table of gearing is available, the following rules will be 
 found useful. 
 
 Rule 12. To find the tension gear to make 6 hank roving: 
 (Tension gear on frame 41 teeth. Roving being spun, 3.5 hank.) 
 Find the square root of the present tension gear, squared, multiplied 
 by the present hank, and divide this sum by the required hank. 
 
 Example: 1/4PX3.5 = 32 M 
 
 286 
 
H 
 
 Z 
 
 1 
 H 
 
 cc 
 
 Du 
 
 g| 
 SI 
 
 Q 5 
 W P^H 
 
 w ^ 
 
 S S 
 
COTTON SPINNING 225 
 
 Rule 13. To find the lay gear to make 6 hank roving: (Lay 
 gear on frame, 35 teeth. Hank roving being spun 3.5.) Find the 
 square root of the present lay gear, squared, multiplied by the present 
 hank, and divide this sum by the required hank. 
 
 Example: i/35 2 X3.5 = 2y 31 
 
 Rule 14. To find the twist gear for 6 hank roving: (Twist gear 
 for 3.5 hank, 40 teeth.) Find the square root of the present twist gear 
 squared, multiplied by present hank, and divide this sum by the 
 required hank. 
 
 Example: l = 30.54 
 
 Rule 15. To find draft gear: (Draft gear, 34 teeth.) Multiply 
 the present hank by the present draft gear and divide this product by 
 the required hank 
 
 Example: 3.5X34 = 28J6 
 
 267 
 
Eeo 
 s- 
 
 <e 13 
 
 o 
 
 SS Pi 
 
 I! 
 
 55 ra 
 
 w g 
 
 ll 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 PART V 
 
 SPINNING 
 
 In the final process of forming the cotton into yarn, there are 
 two wholly different types of machines used, the ring frame and the 
 mule. 
 
 The ring frame is used more extensively than the mule, owing to 
 its simplicity and the cost of operating being less. While the ring 
 frame is not adapted for spinning as fine numbers or as soft twisted 
 yarns as the mule, wherever ring-spun yarn can be used with satis- 
 factory results, the ring frame is generally used. 
 
 RING SPINNING 
 
 The placing of ring frames requires careful consideration. 
 There are two common arrangements. In a mill of a width of one 
 hundred feet or less, the frames should be placed as shown in Fig. 189. 
 This drawing shows a room seventy-five feet wide with two lines of 
 columns, making three spans, each about twenty-five feet wide. 
 Each span will accommodate four lines of ring frames with the proper 
 alleys, which should be from twenty-eight inches to thirty-six inches 
 wide. 
 
 There is one main line of shafting from which are driven the 
 countershafts. The frames are offset so that two can be driven from 
 a pulley which has a center flange. Each countershaft carries two 
 pulleys for driving four frames. The head or pulley ends of the 
 frames are about twelve inches apart, which is as close as they can be 
 placed to give ample room for removing the driving pulleys when 
 necessary. 
 
 When the room is intended for spinning only, the main line is 
 placed so that it will come between two rows of ring frames, to be 
 best adapted for driving. 
 
 When a mill is of sufficient width, the ring frames may be placed 
 crosswise of the room as in Fig. 190. This drawing shows a room 
 
 269 
 
228 
 
 about one hundred twenty-five feet wide with four rows of columns. 
 There are four ring frames in each line, across the room, and a wide 
 alley in the center, extending the length of the room, and also alleys 
 along the side walls. The machines pre arranged in pairs with the 
 pulley ends toward each other for convenience in driving. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 ffl D 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 M 
 
 4 B 
 
 J 
 
 1 1- 
 
 There are but two lines of shafting, which extend lengthwise 
 of the room at right angles to the machines, and upon these main 
 lines are the pulleys, each pair of frames being driven from one pulley 
 by the same belt. 
 
 A plan and an elevation of a drive of this description are shown 
 
 270 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 229 
 
 
 271 
 
230 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 in Fig. 191. The belt, A, drives downward from the pulley, B, on 
 the line, C, and around the pulley, D, on the frame at the left hand, 
 then upward over the carrier pulleys, E and F, downward around the 
 
 ELEVATION OF DRIVE 
 
 Fig. 191. Pulleys for Drawing Frames Placed at Right Angles to Main Line. 
 
 pulley, G, on the frame at the right hand, then up and around the 
 pulley, B. 
 
 This method of driving two frames from one pulley makes a 
 very neat and simple drive and saves shafting and belting compared 
 
 272 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 Fig. 192. Sectional Elevation of Ring Frame. 
 
 273 
 
232 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 to the arrangement shown in Fig. 189, but the room should be wide 
 enough to place four frames across the room so that an operative 
 can tend at least eight sides. 
 
 A sectional elevation of a ring frame is shown in Fig. 192. The 
 various parts of the machine may be referred to briefly as the creel, 
 C, for supporting the bobbins of roving, the roll stands, F 2 , carrying 
 the steel fluted roll, the top rolls, cap bars, trumpet rod, clearers, 
 weights, saddles, etc., thread board, G 1 , with the thread guide or 
 "pig tail", J 2 , roller beam, H 1 , for supporting the roll stands and 
 
 BETWEEN ROLL STANDS 2j 
 8 -SPINDLES PER ROLL 
 
 Fig. 193. Plan of Creel for Double Roving. 
 
 thread board, the ladder or spindle rail, I, spindle, N, ring rail, E 2 , 
 rings, L 1 , drum, F 1 , supports, I 1 , creel rod, O 2 , cross shafts, M 1 , 
 lifting rods, C 2 , separators, N 4 , adjustable feet, J 2 , and drum box, N 2 . 
 The roving, A, from the top row of bobbins, is drawn over the 
 rod, A 2 , and down to the trumpet, B, while the ends from the lower 
 bobbins draw directly to the trumpet. Both ends pass through the 
 same trumpet, as one end, then between the draft rolls, D, E and F, 
 and down through the thread guide, J 2 , to the ring traveler, H, and 
 are wound finally upon the bobbin, O. 
 
 274 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 233 
 
 The drum, F 1 , extends the whole length of the frame, and upon 
 one end of it are the driving pulleys. The spindles are driven from 
 the drum by the bands, B 2 , one for each spindle. 
 
 The ring rails are fastened to the top of the lifting rod, by 
 which they are traversed up and down for winding the yarn evenly 
 upon the bobbin. 
 
 Creels. The Creels are built one or two stories high and for 
 single or double roving. If for single roving, there is only one bobbin 
 
 Fig. 194. Elevation Showing Roll Stand and Weighting. 
 
 for each spindle and the creel is one story, usually. For double 
 roving, there are two bobbins or ends for each spindle and the creel 
 is two storied. 
 
 A plan of a creel for a two and three-quarter inch spaced ring 
 frame, for double roving with bobbins three and one-half inches 
 
 275 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 in diameter, is shown in Fig. 193 and an elevation is shown in Fig. 192. 
 The creel consists of bottom, middle and top boards. The top board 
 serves for a shelf upon which full bobbins can be placed. The 
 skewers, A 1 , for holding the bobbins, A, rest in porcelain steps which 
 
 WEIGHT 
 i" POUNDS 
 
 Fig. 195. Diagram of Weighting. ' 
 
 are flush with the boards, forming the creel. The porcelain offers 
 little resistance to the rotation of the bobbins. 
 
 The bobbins in the upper tier are shown by full lines and those 
 in the bottom tier by dotted lines. They are so spaced that the back 
 row can be removed without disturbing the front ones, a point which 
 
 276 
 
COTTON SPINNING 235 
 
 will be appreciated in a frame of this space and sized creel bobbins. 
 
 Roll Stands and Weighting. An elevation of a common roll is 
 shown in Fig. 194. The stand consists of a main piece, F 2 , which 
 carries the front steel fluted roll, F, and a slide, D 1 , in which are the 
 bearings for the middle roll, E, and the back roll, D. The slide is 
 adjustable so that the middle roll may be set to the front roll with 
 respect to the length of the cotton staple. 
 
 The roving rod, R, carries the brass trumpets, B, through which 
 the roving is drawn, and rests in a slot just behind the back rolls. 
 It is traversed a distance, a little short of the length of the fluted 
 portion of the steel roll, so that the wear will not come on the same 
 part of the boss at all times. 
 
 The cap bars, U, for holding the top rolls in place, are pivoted 
 in a slot in the extreme back end of the roll stand slide. 
 
 The scavenger, or waste roll, G, upon which the yarn collects 
 when an end breaks, thus preventing a roller lap, is a wooden roll 
 covered with denim or light weight flannel. In each end of the roll 
 are wire gudgeons which rest in open bearings in the scavenger roll 
 weights, J. The weights are pivoted at M and are balanced so that 
 the roll is held, lightly, against the steel front roll. 
 
 Sometimes, a spring is used in place of the welgnts for holding 
 the scavenger roll, as shown in Fig. 192, but this is not as satisfactory 
 as it is apt to break. 
 
 The top rolls are both lever-weighted and self-weighted. In the 
 drawing, a system of lever-weighting is sho\vn by which all the rolls 
 receive pressure from one weight. 
 
 There are two saddles used; front saddle, L, and back saddle, 
 S. The back saddle rests upon the middle and back top rolls and the 
 front saddle upon the front top roll and the back saddle. The 
 weight, X 2 , is hung from the lever, V, by a weight hook. The fulcrum 
 of the lever is at the lever screw., W, and the stirrup, Y, serves to 
 communicate the pressure from the weight to the front saddle. For 
 single boss rolls, the weight is from two to three pounds and for 
 double boss rolls about six pounds. 
 
 A diagram for use in figuring the distribution of weight on the 
 different rolls is shown in Fig. 195. 
 
 277 
 
236 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 Front Roll A 
 
 Middle Roll : B 
 
 Back Roll C 
 
 Front Saddle D 
 
 Back Saddle E 
 
 Fulcrum F 
 
 Power P 
 
 Weight W 
 
 To find the weight in pounds upon the front saddle: Multiply 
 the weight (2.5 pounds) by the distance, F-W, and divide by the 
 distance, F-P. 
 
 2.5 X 3.5 
 
 Example: - =17.5 
 
 .o 
 
 To find the weight in pounds upon the front roll: Multiply the 
 weight upon the front saddle (17.5 pounds) by the distance, E-D, 
 and divide by the distance, E-A. 
 
 17.5 X 1.25 
 
 Example: =12.5 
 
 1. i o 
 
 To find the weight in pounds upon the back saddle: Subtract 
 the weight upon the front roll from the weight upon the front saddle 
 
 Example: 17.5 - 12.5 = 5 
 
 To find the weight in pounds upon the back roll: Multiply the 
 weight upon the back saddle by the distance, E-C, and divide by the 
 distance, B-C. 
 
 T-, 5 X .75 
 
 Example: = 3 
 
 I . o 
 
 To find the weight in pounds upon the middle roll: Subtract 
 the weight upon the back roll from the weight upon the back saddle. 
 
 Example: 53 = 2 
 
 Sometimes, it is desired to run the frame with no weight upon 
 the middle .roll. Then, the saddle is pushed back until the curved 
 part, X, comes over the neck of the back roll arbor. This removes 
 the flat part of the saddle from the middle roll and the weight is borne 
 by the front and back rolls. 
 
 Roll stands are made with the rolls inclined from a horizontal 
 line at various angles from twenty-five to thirty-five degrees. For 
 spinning warp and other hard twisted yarns, the twenty-five degree 
 pitched stand, shown in Fig. 196, is largely used. For ring frames 
 to be used for spinning both warp and filling yarn, the thirty degree 
 pitched stand, shown in Fig. 197, is sometimes used. While for 
 
 278 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 237 
 
 filling yarn and any soft twisted yarn, the thirty-five degree pitched 
 
 stand, shown in Fig. 198, is often used. 
 
 The reason for inclining the rolls is very simple. As the yarn 
 
 leaves the bite of the front roll, it is important that it shall receive 
 
 twist at once, as the high speed that the spindles run and the tension 
 
 upon the yarn due to drawing the 
 
 traveler around the ring, tend to break 
 
 the yarn. If the yarn, after leaving 
 
 the bite of the roll, is caused to draw 
 
 around a portion of its circumference, 
 
 the twist will not readily pass this point 
 
 of contact and the yarn, between this 
 
 point of contact and the bite of the 
 
 roll, receives little or no twist. The 
 
 roll stands, therefore, are inclined 
 
 enough to allow the twist to run nearly 
 
 to the bite of the front roll. This is 
 
 particularly necessary when spinning 
 
 filling yarn, which has less twist than warp yarn, and not only are 
 
 the stands inclined at a great angle, but sometimes, the front roll is 
 
 set nearer over the spindles so that the yarn shall draw more nearly 
 
 in a straight line from the front roll to 
 the traveler. 
 
 J >xX A roll stand of this type is shown 
 
 in Fig. 199. The center of the spindle 
 is about four and one-quarter inches 
 from the face of the roller beam, and 
 the center of the front roll is about 
 midway of this space. 
 
 Self-Weighted Top Rolls. Ring 
 frames, for spinning long staple cot- 
 ton, are frequently provided with self- 
 weighted top rolls for the middle and 
 back lines. A frame with rolls of this 
 
 25 "ROLL STAND 
 
 Fig. 196. Warp Roll Stand, 
 25 Pitch. 
 
 30 ROLL STAND 
 
 Fig. 197. combination ROII stand, kmo! is shown in sectional elevation in 
 
 Fig. 200. 
 
 The front top roll, B, which is a shell roll one and three-eighths 
 inches in diameter, is weighted by a weight, G, which extends from 
 
 279 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 35 ROLL STAND 
 
 Fig. 198. Filling Roll Stand, 
 35 Pitch. 
 
 side to side of the frame and is connected to the top rolls by hooks, F, 
 
 and stirrups, E. Holes are drilled in the roller beams to allow the 
 
 hooks to connect with the stirrups. The hook shaped projection 
 
 on the top of the stirrups is to allow 
 the operative to lift the weight clear of 
 the top roll, when necessary, and the 
 round eye, formed on the top of the 
 hook, prevents the weight from drop- 
 ping down upon the drum when the 
 top roll is removed, as the eye is larger 
 in diameter than the hole in the roller 
 beam and can not pull through. 
 
 The top roll for the back line is 
 one and three-quarters inches in diam- 
 eter and for the middle line is three- 
 quarters of an inch in diameter. The 
 rolls are made of cast iron and are not 
 covered with leather, a saving in repairs. 
 The top clearer is conical and is the same as those used on fly 
 
 frames with self-weighted top rolls, as shown and described in a 
 
 previous chapter. 
 
 Sometiihes, a double cone 
 
 clearer is used with a device at each 
 
 end of the frame that tips the clearer, 
 
 automatically, when it reaches the 
 
 end, allowing it to work back. 
 
 In addition to the usual front 
 
 scavenger roll, a second roll is 
 
 sometimes used which bears against 
 
 the underside of the middle and back 
 
 steel rolls. It is one inch in diameter, 
 
 covered with denim, and supported 
 
 by springs held in sockets. The ar- 
 rangement is such as to allow the rolls 
 
 to be easily detached for cleaning. 
 
 The middle and back rolls are carried by the same slide and 
 
 are set about one and three-fourths inches between centers. The 
 
 adjustment is between the front and middle rolls. 
 
 30 "ROLL STAND 
 
 Fig. 199. Roll Stand, 30 Pitch, for 
 * Overhanging Front Rolls. 
 
 280 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 239 
 
 X Kw K!;:: 
 
 Fig. 290. Sectional Elevation of Ring Frame with Self-Weighted Top Rolls. 
 
240 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 In setting a frame with self-weighted top rolls, it is the practice 
 to "set on the staple," which means to make the distance between 
 the centers of the front and middle rolls a trifle less (one-sixteenth 
 to one-eighth of an inch) than the length of the cotton staple. This 
 is just opposite to the method of setting weighted rolls, which are set 
 from one-sixteenth to one-eighth more on centers than the length 
 of the staple. 
 
 It is frequently argued that no great range in counts can be spun 
 with self-weighted rolls, as the weight of a roll, correct for spinning 
 10's yarn is not right for 30's. This is, however, a mistake as from 
 10's to 80's can be spun with rolls of the sizes mentioned. 
 
 Thread Boards. The thread boards for supporting the thread 
 guides are made of wood or metal. Figures 192 and 200 show a 
 common wooden thread board, G 1 , consisting of a doffing strip, which 
 is secured to the roller beam by hinged brackets, and blocks for 
 holding the thread guides, which are hinged, to the thread board. 
 The thread guide is made with various shaped eyes and is screwed 
 into the block. 
 
 The metallic thread board is made of thin sheet metal, nickel 
 plated and secured to the roller beam similarly to the wooden one. 
 
 Metallic boards are considered to be an improvement over 
 \vooden ones, as there is an adjustment for the thread guide in all 
 directions in a horizontal plane, and the eye of the guide may be very 
 easily set in the correct position over the spindle. With the wooden 
 thread board, the eye can be adjusted only by screwing it in or out of 
 the block, and for any side movement, the only way is to bend the 
 guide to meet the spindle. This is apt to loosen the guide and cause 
 it to work out. 
 
 A large per cent of broken ends is caused by faulty setting of the 
 thread guides, a point which should not be overlooked. In setting 
 the guide, it is customary to put a round, wooden piece called a "set" 
 on the spindle. This is made with a pin in the top. The length of 
 the set is such as to bring the pin up just under the thread guide. 
 The guide is then set so that the thread will draw from the back side 
 of the eye to the center of the spindle. 
 
 Spindles. A type of spindle, commonly used on modern ring 
 frames, is shown in Fig. 201. It consists of a base, bolster, step, 
 spindle blade, whirl and cup. 
 
 282 
 
o = 
 
 s: 
 
 a 
 
 H a 
 
 S 3 
 
 * 5 
 
COTTON SPIXXIXG 
 
 241 
 
 The whirl is driven on to the spindle, and the. cup, which helps 
 center and rotate the bobbin, is forced on to the sleeve of the whirl. 
 The lower part of the bolster is covered with packing, tied with a 
 fine string. This gives greater steadiness to the running of the 
 spindle and better wearing qualities. 
 
 The step is made of hardened steel, has a flat top, and is screwed 
 into the bottom of the bolster. 
 
 The 'base is made with an upward projecting nose, or oil tube, 
 
 -BLADE. 
 
 -BOLSTER. 
 
 -PACKING. 
 
 BASE 
 
 -STEP. 
 
 Fig. 201. Spindle Parts. 
 
 S, the cover, C, of which forms a lock to prevent pulling the spindle 
 out of the bolster when doffing. The stem of the bolster is threaded 
 to receive a nut for securing the base to the spindle rail. 
 
 The cups are usually of brass and are made several sizes to suit 
 the different sized bobbins. They are called warp cups and 
 filling cups. Many prefer to have the cups all one size, particularly 
 
 283 
 
242 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 when frames are to be run for both warp and filling, so that the bobbins 
 will be interchangeable. 
 
 Fig. 202 shows a spindle and bolster assembled. 
 Separators. Separators are usually applied to frames for spin- 
 ning warp yarn and, sometimes, to those for filling yarn, as the high 
 speed of the spindles, and the long traverse of modern 
 frames, cause the ends to whip and break down. 
 
 The separator blades, N 4 , (Fig. 192) are thin, steel 
 plates, of a size to suit the length of traverse, and are 
 mounted upon light rods which extend parallelly with 
 the ring rails. They are connected with the traverse 
 motion from the cross shaft arm, M 1 , by the rods, L 8 , 
 so they rise and fall with the ring rail, and are arranged 
 so that they can be tipped back out of the way while 
 doffing. The blades are placed midway of the spaces 
 between the center of the spindles, and tlie ballooning 
 yarns are kept from whipping together 
 
 This ballooning is very apparent on warp frames, 
 when the rail is at the bottom of the traverse, as there 
 is considerable length of yarn between the thread guide 
 and the traveler. 
 
 Fig. 203. Spindle 
 Assembled. 
 
 Fig. 203. Double Ring in Cast Iron Holder. 
 
 Spinning Rings. Rings that are supplied with new ring frames 
 are usually double rings, set in either cast iron or plate holders. 
 The ring shown in Fig. 203 is such, in a cast iron holder with wire 
 traveler cleaner; A, is the holder, B, the ring, and, C, the cleaner. 
 A recess is formed on the inside of the holder and the traveler cleaner 
 lies around the recess, between the ring and holder. 
 
 The position of the upturned end of the traveler cleaner is such 
 that, as the traveler rotates, the loose fibers and fly, which are always 
 
 284 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 243 
 
 Double Ring in Plate Holder. 
 
 floating about a spinning room, and which are bound to gather on 
 
 the traveler, are wiped off and the traveler kept clean. Unless the 
 
 traveler is kept free from this accumulation, uneven yarn will be 
 
 caused. 
 
 The traveler cleaner is set just far enough away so that it cannot 
 
 interfere with the rotation of the 
 
 traveler. It cannot get out of 
 
 place, because the tail is always 
 
 set concentric with the ring. 
 
 Another style of "double 
 
 ring", in a plate holder, is shown 
 
 in Fig. 204. This is known as a 
 
 double adjustable ring. It is in a plate holder with part of the 
 
 plate turned up to form the traveler cleaner. A, is the ring, B, the 
 
 plate holder, and, C, is the part of the plate which forms the traveler 
 
 cleaner. 
 
 The advantage claimed for a double ring, is, that when the top 
 
 flange becomes worn, it may be reversed in the holder, the other side 
 
 used, prolonging very much the wear of the ring. 
 
 The plate holders are made round, oval or square. A round 
 
 holder is shown, with the ring, 
 in Fig. 204, and an oval plate 
 holder with a double ring is 
 shown in Fig. 205. 
 
 The oval holder has two 
 screw slots at AA, for securing- 
 the holder to the ring rail, and 
 two lugs at BB for fastening the 
 ring to the holder. The slots 
 permit the holder to be adjusted 
 so the ring can be set concentric 
 with the spindle. 
 
 A square holder is shown in 
 Fig. 206. This one has also two 
 
 slots, AA, for fastening it to the rail but has three lugs, BBB, for fast- 
 ening the ring to the holder. 
 
 The cast iron holder is secured to the ring rail by three screws, 
 
 two in front and one in the rear of the ring, and, by loosening one and 
 
 Fig. 205. Oval Plate Holder and Ring. 
 
 285 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 tightening the other two, the ring can be moved a slight distance for 
 setting it in position. The cast iron holder is made with a split so 
 that it can be sprung open, slightly, to remove the ring. 
 
 Rings, known as solid rings are also used. They are without 
 
 holders and are made to fit the 
 holes in the ring rail with a 
 very slight adjustment by 
 screws the same as the cast 
 iron holders. 
 
 Rings are often specified 
 as one and one-half inch ring 
 in a holder for one and three- 
 fourths inch ring. This per- 
 mits the holder to be removed 
 and a one and three-fourths 
 inch ring and holder to be 
 
 Fig. 206. Square Plate Holder and Ring. ^ use d in the same place. The 
 
 hole in the ring rail is made large enough that a one and three-fourths 
 inch ring may be used. 
 
 The flanges for the rings for ring frames are known as numbers 1, 
 2, etc. Number 1 flange is one-quarter of an inch wide, and is usually 
 used for rings up to one and three-fourths inches in diameter, while 
 number 2 flange, which is five thirty- 
 seconds of an inch wide, is used for sizes 
 up to two and one-fourth inches in di- 
 ameter. This is not an absolute rule to 
 follow but is recommended by some of 
 the prominent ring makers. 
 
 Enlarged sections of flanges, num- 
 bers one and two with the respective 
 sizes of the traveler, are shown in Fig. 207. 
 
 Ring Travelers. There is no rule by Flange of Rings and Travelers - 
 which the correct weight of travelers may be determined for a cer- 
 tain number of yarn, as the size of ring, speed of spindle, number 
 of yarn and twist per inch, introduce elements which affect the size 
 of the traveler, and, also, the different makes of travelers vary slightly 
 in the numbers of different sizes. 
 
 The following table gives approximately the correct size of ring 
 
 No I 
 
 No2 
 
 Fig 207. Enlarged Section of 
 
 286 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 245 
 
 travelers to use for spinning yarns of ordinary twist and of various 
 sizes of rings. This table is given as a guide to select travelers, but 
 it must be understood that the numbers will vary somewhat owing 
 to circumstances as referred to above. 
 
 No. Yarn 1%" Ring 
 
 iy s " Ring 
 
 IK" Ring 
 
 No. Yarn 
 
 154" Ring 
 
 1H" Ring 
 
 IK" Ring 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 30 
 
 u 
 
 * 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 32 
 
 * 
 
 5 
 Iff 
 
 1 
 u 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 34 
 
 1 
 
 A 
 TT 
 
 * 
 
 14 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 36 
 
 6 
 TT 
 
 T5 
 
 R 
 TJ 
 
 16 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 38 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 18 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 40 
 
 8 
 Ti 
 
 
 
 V- 
 
 20 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 42 
 
 9 
 
 T 
 
 1 
 
 TT 
 
 
 22 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 t ' 
 
 44 
 
 -v- 
 
 1 1 
 "TT 
 
 
 24 
 
 1 
 
 } 
 
 ff 
 
 46 
 
 1 1 
 TT 
 
 V 
 
 
 26 
 
 I 
 
 3 
 
 T 
 
 1 
 
 48 
 
 1 2 
 ~TT 
 
 1 3 
 TT 
 
 
 28 
 
 TF 
 
 
 
 * 
 
 50 
 
 V 
 
 V 
 
 
 Principle of the Traveler. The traveler receives its motion by 
 being dragged, by the yarn, around the ring, and, in the passage of the 
 yarn from the front roll to the bobbin, it is turned at a right angle 
 at the point where it passes through the traveler. Therefore, all of 
 the twist is introduced between the traveler and the front roll. In 
 fact, the traveler performs a double 
 duty, giving the twist to the yarn 
 and guiding it on to the bobbin. 
 
 The size and weight of the trav- 
 eler must be adapted to the number 
 of yarn being spun. This is neces- 
 sary so that the revolutions of the 
 traveler shall fall behind the revo- 
 lutions of the bobbin enough to 
 maintain a tension upon the yarn, 
 sufficient to wind the same length, 
 that is delivered by the front roll, 
 less a small amount due to contraction in consequence of the twist. 
 
 The smaller the diameter of the bobbin, the more revolutions are 
 necessary to wind the same length, and, as the speed of the bobbin is 
 constant, it is evident that the tension upon the yarn must relax and 
 
 Fig. 208. Diagram Showing 
 Principle of Traveler. 
 
 287 
 
246 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 allow the traveler to fall behind the bobbin and cause more yarn to be 
 wound. This may be understood by noting the two diagrams, Figs. 
 208 and 209. In these illustrations, R is the ring, T, the traveler, 
 S, the spindle, F, the full bobbin, and E, the empty bobbin. The 
 yarn is represented, as passing through the traveler, . by the line Y. 
 With the full bobbin (Fig. 209), the pull of the yarn is nearly 
 parallel with the ring, and the traveler is rotated with comparative 
 ease, but with the empty bobbin (Fig. 208), the pull of the yarn ap- 
 proaches a radial line and is not as 
 well suited to rotate the traveler. 
 ^^\ \ We will assume that the empty 
 
 bobbin is three-quarters of an inch 
 in diameter (2.35 inches circumfer- 
 ence) and the full bobbin is one 
 and three-quarters inches in diame- 
 ter (5.49 inches in circumference). 
 If the traveler is held stationary 
 and the empty bobbin given one 
 Fig. 209. Diagram showing revolution, there will be wound 2.35 
 
 Principle of Traveler. . 
 
 inches or yarn, while with the full 
 bobbin, one revolution will wind 5.49 inches. 
 
 If the rotations of the traveler were not retarded, it would travel 
 around the ring a distance equal to 2.35 inches, for an empty bobbin 
 and 5.49 inches for a full bobbin, and, as each rotation of the traveler 
 gives one twist to the yarn, a considerable difference in the twist per 
 inch will be produced, but as the traveler falls behind the bobbin 
 only enough to cause the yarn to be wound, the difference in the 
 twist is not appreciable. 
 
 If the bobbin makes one hundred revolutions and in the same 
 time the front roll delivers ten inches of yarn, the twist can be called 
 ten per inch. 
 
 The empty bobbin will have to make 4.25 revolutions. 
 
 fi ^ ,-.,'.:; 
 
 The traveler will make 95.75 rotations, or the speed of the bobbin 
 less the number of revolutions, necessary to wind the yarn. 
 100 - 4.25 ~ 95.75 
 
 288 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 247 
 
 At each rotation of the traveler, the yarn receives one twist, so 
 the actual twist per inch will be 9.57. 
 
 With the full bobbin, 1.84 revolutions are necessary to wind the 
 ten inches of yarn, delivered by the front roll. 
 
 10 
 
 5.49 
 
 = 1.84 
 
 The traveler will then make only 98.16 rotations. 
 100 - 1.84 = 98.16 
 
 The difference in twist per inch between a full bobbin, one and 
 three-fourths inches in diameter and an empty one, three-fourths of 
 an inch in diameter, is the difference between 9.81 and 9.57 or .24 
 of one turn in a length of ten inches. 
 
 Builders. There are three kinds of builders used upon the ring 
 frame. The warp builder is shown in Fig. 210, the filling builder in 
 
 M 
 
 N 
 
 Fig. 210. Warp Builder. 
 
 Fig. 213 and the combination builder, which can be changed for 
 either warp or rilling wind, in Fig. 215. 
 
 With the warp builder, the yam is wound the whole length of the 
 bobbin at first and the length of the traverse is gradually shortened 
 at each end as the bobbin increases in diameter, as shown by the 
 distance A-B, Fig. 211. 
 
 The warp builder consists of a main piece or arm, S 2 , rack, N 1 , 
 hook, M 2 , worm, W 2 , worm shaft, F 6 , ratchet gear, T, pawl, V 1 , 
 counterbalance weight, S 4 , and roll, Z. All these parts are mounted 
 upon the builder arm which is hung upon a stud at Q. The worm is 
 
 289 
 
248 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 ^r- A 
 
 fastened to one end of the worm shaft, and engages the teeth of the 
 rack, and the ratchet is fastened to the other end of the shaft and its 
 teeth are acted upon by the pawl. 
 
 The means for producing the up and down movement of the 
 rail is by a uniform motion cam, J 2 , which bears against the cam 
 
 roll and this motion is communicated to 
 the ring rail by a chain from the hook 
 fastened to the builder rack. 
 
 The connection from the chain to the 
 ring rail is shown in perspective in the 
 drawing Fig. 212. The cross shafts, M 1 , 
 by which the guide rods are operated, are 
 supported in hangers, V 2 , which are 
 bolted to the underside of the ladders. 
 An upward projecting arm, X 1 , carries a 
 swivel to which is connected the builder 
 chain, Y 1 , and a horizontal arm, C 7 , car- 
 ries a roll, Y 2 , which bears against a shoe 
 on the lower end of the guide rod, C 2 . 
 The ring rails, E 2 , rest upon brackets on 
 the top of the guide rods. A counterbal- 
 ance weight, not shown in the drawing 
 but attached to each cross shaft and shown 
 as G 2 in Fig. 192, keeps the builder cam 
 roll up against the cam, so that there shall 
 be no backlash at the end of the traverse. 
 The cam is fastened to the cam or heart shaft, K, which is driven 
 from the foot or gear end, P 1 , to which reference will be made later. 
 The rack is shown wound out to the extreme end of the arm, 
 and the ring rail moves the full length of its traverse, but at each 
 upward swing of the arm, the pawl is brought into 'contact with the 
 dagger, E 2 , which is fastened to the ladder. This gives the ratchet 
 gear a partial turn, and the rack is drawn back toward the fulcrum of 
 the arm and the -traverse of the rail is shortened. 
 
 The ratchet gears are made with various numbers of teeth and 
 the dagger is adjustable so that it can be set to take up more or less 
 teeth. 
 
 Fig. 211. Warp Bobbin. 
 
 290 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 249 
 
 When the bobbin is full, the rack is wound out to commence a 
 new set by the crank, Z 2 , called the builder key. 
 
 The filling builder (Fig. 213) is connected to the ring rail in the 
 same manner as the one just described, but with the filling wind, the 
 rail starts at the lowest point in the traverse and, instead of winding 
 
 the yarn the whole length of the bobbin, it is wound a short distance, 
 as shown by A-B in Fig. 214. The length of the traverse remains 
 the same throughout the whole length of the bobbin, but its position 
 gradually goes higher until it reaches the top of the bobbin. Thi3 
 
 291 
 
250 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 is accomplished in the following way: The worm, W 2 , instead of 
 engaging a rack as on the warp builder, is in gear with a worm gear, 
 V 2 , the hub of which is made as a drum upon which the builder chain, 
 T 5 , is wound. The ratchet gear is turned in the same manner as for 
 the warp builder. 
 
 At the beginning of the set, when the rail is at its lowest position, 
 the chain is wound around the drum, but as the ratchet gear is slowly 
 
 M 
 
 w 
 
 Fig. 213. . Filling Biiilder. 
 
 turned, it is gradually unwound and the traverse is allowed to go 
 higher on the bobbin. The builder is wound back with a key, the 
 same as the warp builder. 
 
 The filling cam, O 1 , is made with three lobes, so each revolution 
 of the cam shaft causes the ring rail to make three complete traverses 
 against one complete traverse of the warp cam. Owing to the 
 peculiar outlines of the filling cam, the rail -is made to traverse in one 
 direction faster than in the other. The cam can be put on to the cam 
 shaft so as to give either a fast or slow down traverse to the ring rail. 
 The slow down traverse is generally preferred, as the yarn draws off 
 the bobbin much better and with less danger of breaking when 
 afterwards used in the shuttle in weaving. 
 
 The object in having the rail ruri faster one way than the other 
 is to permit the coils, wound on the slow' traverse, to be covered by 
 the coils of the fast traverse which wind more openly and this, in a 
 measure, prevents the yarn from becoming tangled, and allows it to 
 unwind from the bobbin more freely. 
 
 292 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 251 
 
 i_ B 
 
 The combination builder (Fig. 215) may be used for either a 
 warp, or a filling wind, by making a slight change in the arrangement 
 of parts, but it is necessary to use both warp and filling cams to produce 
 this change. 
 
 The drawing shows the builder arranged for a filling wind. The 
 chain is fastened to the hook, formed in the end of the filling arm, 
 K 1 , which is pivoted on the builder at Z 1 . 
 Upon commencing to spin a set, the builder 
 is drawn out until the roll, J 1 , which is fas- 
 tened to the rack, N 1 , is brought against the 
 neck of the filling arm in the position shown. 
 
 The builder arm is caused to traverse 
 by the filling cam, O 1 , in the same manner 
 as the other builders, and the rack is grad- 
 ually moved back towards the fulcrum of 
 the builder arm, carrying with it the roll. 
 This movement allows the filling arm to rise 
 and the traverse of the rail to approach the 
 top of the bobbin. The length of the trav- 
 erse remains the same, as the position of 
 the point, to which the chain is attached to 
 the filling arm, is not changed. 
 
 When the builder is to be changed from 
 filling to warp, the filling cam is loosened 
 and slipped along the shaft, and the warp 
 cam is put in its place; the chain is then 
 unhooked from the filling arm and fastened 
 to the pin in the rack. 
 
 In setting the warp builder shown in Fig. 210, the rack, N 1 , is 
 first drawn out, as shown in the drawing, and the traverse is set by 
 running the ring rail down, to bring the traveler to the position wanted 
 on the bobbin. The rail is then raised to the desired point, and by 
 adjusting the length of the chain arm, Z 3 (Fig. 212), the exact length 
 of the traverse can be determined. 
 
 The length of taper, for the top or bottom of the bobbin, can 
 be varied by raising or lowering the fulcrum, Q, of the builder arm. 
 This may be understood by reference to Fig. 210. The builder is 
 set for the same length of taper for both ends of the bobbin. The 
 
 Fig. 214. Filling Hobbin. 
 
 293 
 
252 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 fulcrum of the builder arm is at Q; the throw of the cam is shown by 
 the distance between the center of the cam rolls, A and B. 
 
 When the rail is traversing its greatest distance and the rack is 
 wound out, the hook is at G and the length of the traverse is repre- 
 
 N 
 
 Fig. 215. Combination Builder. 
 
 sented by the distance between the horizontal lines, C-D. But when 
 the bobbin is full and the traverse is shortened to its extent, the point, 
 G, where the hook is attached, has moved in to H and the traverse 
 of the rail is represented by the distance E-F. The distance between 
 
 Fig. 216. Diagram Showing Taper at Top and Bottom of Bobbin. 
 
 C-E and F-D is the same and the bobbin has the same amount of 
 taper at each end. 
 
 If it is desired to have a long taper upon the top of the bobbin, 
 the fulcrum of the builder arm is dropped, as in Fig. 217, which 
 
 294 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 253 
 
 results in making a long nose on the top of the bobbin. The greatest 
 traverse of the rail is represented by the distance, C-D, and the 
 shortest traverse by the distance, E-F. Unlike the previous drawing, 
 the distance between the horizontal lines, D-F, which represents the 
 lowest position of the rail for both the long and the short traverse, 
 is much less than the distance, C-D. 
 
 If the long taper is wanted upon the bottom of the bobbin, the 
 fulcrum is raised. The length of the taper can be regulated to a 
 certain extent by raising or lowering the dagger so as to let off a 
 greater or lesser number of teeth. 
 
 In starting the filling builder, the chain should be wound up as 
 shown in the drawing (Fig. 213) until the double tooth, P 2 , comes 
 around against the worm, which forms a stop, so that the rail shall 
 
 Fig. 217. Diagram Showing Taper at Top and Bottom of Bobbin. 
 
 start in the same position each time. The length of taper may then be 
 regulated by raising or lowering the fulcrum of the builder arm and 
 also by letting off teeth on the ratchet gear 
 
 In using the combination builder, for a filling wind, the fulcrum 
 of the filling arm is raised or lowered in the slot, Z*, instead of raising 
 the fulcrum, Q, of the arm. 
 
 A word in regard to the respective merits of stick doffing and 
 twist doffing. The method, employed by most of the mills, through- 
 out the country, where modern spindles are used, is "stick" doffing. 
 This is done by running the ring rail to the lowest point in its traverse, 
 and winding a few coils of loose yarn around the cup, so that when 
 the full bobbin is drawn off, this loose yarn will wind closely around 
 
 295 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 the blade of the spindle. The empty bobbin is then pushed down 
 on the spindle, and the loose yarn is caught be.tween the spindle and 
 the bobbin, so when the frame is started, the yarn is ready to wind on. 
 
 The system, called "twist" doffing, is used where old style spin- 
 dles are used. This method consists in stopping the frame about 
 in the middle of the extreme ends of the traverse on both warp and 
 filling frames. When the full bobbin is removed, the empty one is 
 twisted around the loose yarn and pushed down on the spindle. When 
 the frame is started, a slight ridge is sometimes formed before the rail 
 begins to traverse. This is a serious fault, on a rilling wind, for as the 
 yarn grows less on the bobbin and begins to draw from a point below 
 the ridge, it breaks, causing frequent stopping of the loom when 
 weaving. 
 
 The "stick" method cannot be used successfully, on the old 
 style spindles, as the yarn cannot be wound around the base of the 
 blade without seriously interfering with the putting on of the empty 
 bobbins. 
 
 The "twist" doff takes considerably longer than the "stick" doff, 
 and for that reason, the latter is used whenever possible. 
 
 Gearing. An elevation, showing the gear end of a ring frame, 
 is shown in Fig. 218. The front rolls, F, are driven from the drum 
 shaft, G 6 , by the drum gear, A 4 , the stud gear, C 6 , the twist gear, K 6 , 
 intermediate gears, N 6 , and the front roll gear, S 4 . 
 
 The cam shaft, K, is driven from the sprocket gear, J 4 , on the 
 hub of the intermediate gear, N 6 , by a chain, A 4 , a sprocket gear, D 6 , 
 the bevel gears, E 6 and F 6 , the worm, W 6 , and the worm gear, J 7 , 
 which is upon the cam shaft. 
 
 The draft gearing is shown on the right hand side of the frame. 
 The gear, A, on the front roll drives the crown gear, M 6 , and on the 
 stud with the crown gear is the draft gear, D 8 , which drives the gear, 
 K 6 , on the back roll. The gear, O 6 , on the back roll drives the middle 
 roll through the carrier gear, P 6 and middle roll gear, R 6 . The draft 
 gearing is alike on each side of the frame and for extremely long 
 frames a set of draft gears is used upon each end; "double geared", 
 it is called. 
 
 The arrangement of the twist gearing is such that a combination 
 of gears may be applied that will give a wide range of twist. 
 
 The drum and stud gears are of twenty-four and ninety-one 
 
 296 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 teeth. These can be changed to thirty and eighty-five or forty and 
 seventy-five teeth. 
 
 The twist gear, which has from twenty to fifty teeth, is carried 
 by a link, A 7 , which swings on the hub of the drum box, and, as shown 
 
 Fig. 218. End Elevation Showing Gearing. 
 
 in the drawing, it is in gear with the intermediate gear on the left 
 hand side of the frame. 
 
 The driving belt should never be crossed, and it frequently 
 happens that the direction of the main line is such that the front roll 
 will turn in the wrong direction. To remedy this, the twist link is 
 
 297 
 
250 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 swung over so that the twist gear will engage the intermediate gear 
 on the opposite side from that shown in the drawing. 
 
 The drums are seven, eight or nine inches in diameter and the 
 whirl of the spindle is three-fourths, thirteen-sixteenths, seven-eighths 
 of an inch or one inch in diameter. The sizes, most commonly 
 
 s DRAFT GEAR 
 20 TO 45 TEETH 
 
 FRONT ROLL 
 I' DIA. 
 
 Fig. "H9. Diagram of Draft Gearing. 
 
 used, are seven inch drum and three-quarters or thirteen-sixteenths 
 inch whirl. 
 
 The spindle makes a certain number of revolutions to each 
 revolution of the drum, and this is called "relation of drum to whirl". 
 This relation must be known in figuring the speed of the spindle, hence 
 the following table: 
 
 Revolutions of Spindle 
 
 Dia. of whirl 
 
 1" drum 
 
 8" drum 
 
 9" drum 
 
 r 
 
 8.12 
 
 9.20 
 
 10.72 
 
 w 
 
 7.58 
 
 8.64 
 
 9.94 
 
 i" 
 
 7.05 
 
 8.10 
 
 945 
 
 
 6.48 
 
 7.18 . ;' 
 
 825 
 
 The speed of the cam shaft is often changed, as the filling wind 
 is run at a greater speed than the warp wind. The traverse must also 
 run at a greater speed for coarse yarn than for fine yarn. These 
 
 298 
 
w / 
 
 BS 
 
 I 
 
 K o 
 
 W to 
 
 * I 
 W ^ 
 J 
 
 D 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 257 
 
 changes in speed are made by having a different number of teeth in 
 either the upper or lower sprocket gear. The binder pulley, T 6 , 
 which is carried by an arm, V 6 , is for taking up the slack of the chain 
 when necessary. 
 
 To change the draft, various combinations are used. In the 
 drawing, a front roll gear of twenty teeth and a crown gear of seventy 
 
 TWIST GEAR 
 STUD GEAR 
 DRUM GEAR' 
 
 Fig. 220. Diagram of Twist Gearing. 
 
 teeth are shown. These may be changed to twenty and sixty-four 
 teeth or thirty and one hundred four teeth. 
 
 The back roll gear shown has fifty-six teeth but it is also supplied 
 with fifty, fifty-four or fifty-five teeth. 
 
 The regular draft gearing is sixteen pitch, but where a very fine 
 range is wanted, the gears are made twenty-four pitch so that a change 
 of one tooth will make a small change in the draft. 
 
258 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 Yarn is made both right and left twist. When it is to be doubled 
 on a twister, it is necessary to spin it with the spindle rotating in the 
 opposite direction from that of the twister spindle. If two threads 
 are to be twisted on a ring twister and given a right hand twist, they 
 must have a left hand twist in spinning. 
 
 A diagram of the draft gearing is shown in Fig. 219 and the twist 
 gearing is shown in Fig. 220. 
 
 Rule 1. To find the draft between the front and back rolls: 
 Multiply the driven gears by the diameter of the front roll and divide 
 the product by the product of the driving gears multiplied by -the 
 diameter of the back roll. The driven gears are M 6 and K 6 and the 
 diameter of the front roll is 1. inch. The driving gears are A and D 8 
 and the back roll is f inches diameter. 
 
 70 X 56 X 8 
 Example: 20 X 28 X 7 = 8 ' C 
 
 Rule 2. To find the draft factor: Proceed as in the previous 
 rule but omit the draft change gear D 6 . 
 
 70 X 56 X 8 
 Example: 20 X 7 
 
 Rule 3. To find the draft: Divide the factor by the number 
 of teeth in the draft gear. 
 
 224 
 Example: -~~- = 8.00 
 
 Rule 4. To find the number of teeth in the draft gear: Divide 
 the factor by the draft. 
 
 224 
 Example: -~- = 28.00 
 
 Rule 5 To find the twist per inch in the yarn: Multiply the 
 driven gears by the ratio of spindle to drum and divide the product 
 by the product of the driving gears multiplied by the circumference 
 of the front roll. The driven gears are C 6 and S 4 and the ratio of a 
 | inch whirl to a 7 inch diameter drum is* 8.12. The driving gears 
 are A 4 and K 6 and the circumference of the front roll is 3.14. 
 85 X 91 X 8.12 
 
 Exam P le: aoTxsnrsii == 21 ' 50 
 
 Rule 6. To find the twist factor: Proceed as in Rule 5 but omit 
 the twist change gear. 
 
 300 
 
COTTON SPINNING 259 
 
 85 X 91 X 8.12 
 
 Example: - -666.75 
 
 ^l.oU 
 
 Rule 7. To find the twist gear: Divide the factor by the required 
 twist. 
 
 V 666 ' 75 Q1 
 
 Example: ~-^ 
 
 Rule 8. To find the twist per inch: Divide the factor by the 
 number of teeth in the twist gear. 
 
 Example: ~ = 21.50 
 
 ol 
 
 The standard twist for warp yarn is the square root of the number 
 of yarn multiplied by 4.75. For filling yarn, multiply by 3.20. For 
 hosiery yarn, and other soft twisted yarn, the factor is as low as 2.50, 
 and for extra hard twisted yarns, as high as 5.00. The standard 
 twist tables are based on the multiple of 4.75 for warp and 3.20 for 
 filling. 
 
 Rule 9. To find the number of hanks per spindle: Multiply 
 together the revolutions of the front roll per minute (132), the circum- 
 ference of the front roll (3.14") and the estimated number of minutes 
 run in ten hours (570). Divide the product by the number of inches 
 in one hank (30,240). 
 _, 132 X 3.14 X 5.70 
 
 Exam P le: 30, 240 = '- 81 
 
 Rule 10. To find the number of pounds per spindle: Divide 
 the number of hanks per spindle (7.81) by the number of yarn (20). 
 
 7 81 
 Example: = .39 
 
 \) 
 
 Rule 11. To find the revolutions of the spindle per minute: 
 Multiply together the revolutions of the front roll (132), the twist 
 per inch (21.24) and the circumference of the front roll (3.14). 
 Example: 132 X 21.24 X 3.14 = 8803.55 
 
 Rule 12.' To find the weight in grains per yard of any number 
 of yarn : Divide the weight per yard of No. 1 yarn (8,333 grains) by 
 the number of yarn (20). 
 
 8.333 
 
 Example: =.416 
 
 i\) 
 
 The production of the ring frame is governed by the speed at 
 which the front roll can be run, and this speed is determined by the 
 
 301 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 quality and counts of yarn being spun. All machinery builders 
 publish tables giving the speeds of the front roll and the spindle for 
 the different numbers of yarn These speeds are based upon the 
 result of experiments, and may be increased ten to fifteen per cent, 
 when the nature of the stock is such that it will allow it. 
 
 In Rules 9 and 11, the speed of the front roll, which is 132 
 R. 1\ M., is the table speed for No. 20 warp yarn; and in Rule 11 
 the twist per inch, which is 21.24, is the standard for No. 20 warp 
 yarn also. 
 
 The actual time that the frame is stopped for cleaning and doffing 
 varies very much with the number of the yarn and the quality of the 
 cotton. This amounts to from 2 to 12 per cent. 
 
 The tables given show the speeds at which the front roll and the 
 spindles may be safely run, for both warp and filling yarn, from 
 numbers 4 to 60. 
 
 WARP YARN 
 
 Number 
 of Yarn 
 
 Revs, of 
 1 Inch 
 Front Roll 
 Per Minute 
 
 Revs, of 
 Spindle Per 
 Minute 
 
 Hanks 
 Per Day 
 Per Spindle 
 
 Pounds 
 Per Day 
 Per Spindle 
 
 Estimated 
 Time Run 
 Per Day 
 in Minutes 
 
 4 
 
 155 
 
 4600 
 
 8.64 
 
 2.16 
 
 537 
 
 5 
 
 153 
 
 5100 
 
 8.57 
 
 1.71 
 
 538 
 
 6 
 
 152 
 
 5600 
 
 8.50 
 
 1.41 
 
 539 
 
 7 
 
 150 
 
 5900 
 
 8.43 
 
 1.20 
 
 540 
 
 8 
 
 148 
 
 6300 
 
 8.36 
 
 1.04 
 
 540 
 
 9 
 
 147 
 
 6600 
 
 8.29 
 
 0.92 
 
 541 
 
 10 
 
 145 
 
 6900 
 
 8.22 0.82 
 
 542 
 
 12 
 
 142 
 
 7400 
 
 8.08 0.67 
 
 544 
 
 14 
 
 189 
 
 7800 
 
 7.93 
 
 0.56 
 
 546 
 
 16 
 
 136 
 
 8200 
 
 7.78 0.48 
 
 548 
 
 18 
 
 133 
 
 8500 
 
 7.64 
 
 0.42 
 
 550 
 
 20 
 
 130 
 
 8700 
 
 7.49 
 
 0.374 
 
 552 
 
 22 
 
 127 
 
 8900 
 
 7.34 
 
 0.333 
 
 554 
 
 24 
 
 124 
 
 9100 
 
 7.19 
 
 0.299 
 
 556 
 
 26 
 
 121 
 
 9200 
 
 7.03 
 
 0.270 
 
 558 
 
 28 
 
 118 
 
 9300 
 
 6.88 
 
 0.245 
 
 560 
 
 30 
 
 115 
 
 9400 
 
 6.72 
 
 0.224 
 
 562 
 
 32 
 
 112 
 
 9500 
 
 6.57 
 
 0.205 
 
 564 
 
 34 
 
 109 
 
 9500 
 
 6.41 
 
 0.188 
 
 565 
 
 36 
 
 106 
 
 9500 
 
 6.25 
 
 0.173 
 
 567 
 
 38 
 
 103 
 
 9500 
 
 6.09 
 
 0.160 
 
 569 
 
 40 
 
 100 
 
 9500 
 
 5.93 
 
 0.148 
 
 571 
 
 42 
 
 98 
 
 9500 
 
 5.83 
 
 0.138 
 
 573 
 
 44 
 
 96 
 
 9500 
 
 5.73 
 
 0.130 
 
 575 
 
 46 
 
 94 
 
 9500 
 
 6.63 
 
 0.122 
 
 577 
 
 48 
 
 92 
 
 9500 
 
 5.53 
 
 0.115 
 
 579 
 
 50 
 
 90 
 
 9600 
 
 5.43 
 
 0.108 
 
 581 
 
 60 
 
 85 
 
 9800 
 
 5.20 
 
 0.086 
 
 590 
 
 302 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 261 
 
 FILLING YARN 
 
 Number 
 of Yarn 
 
 / 
 
 Revs, of 
 linen 
 Front Roll 
 Per Minute 
 
 Revs, of 
 Spindle Per 
 Minute 
 
 Hanks 
 Per Day 
 Per Spindle 
 
 Pounds 
 Per Day 
 Per Spindle 
 
 Estimated 
 Time Run 
 Per Day 
 in Minutes 
 
 4 169 3400 
 
 9.22 2.30 525 
 
 5 168 8775 
 
 9.17 1.83 526 
 
 6 166 4100 
 
 9.12 1.52 
 
 527 
 
 7 165 4400 
 
 9.08 1.29 
 
 528 
 
 8 
 
 163 4650 
 
 8.99 1.12 
 
 529 
 
 9 
 
 162 4900 
 
 8.95 0.99 530 
 
 10 
 
 160 5100 
 
 8.85 0.88 
 
 531 
 
 12 158 5500 
 
 8.75 
 
 0.72 
 
 533 
 
 14 155 5850 
 
 8.65 
 
 0.61 
 
 535 
 
 16 151 6100 
 
 8.47 
 
 0.52 
 
 537 
 
 18 147 6800 
 
 8.28 
 
 0.46 
 
 540 
 
 20 144 6500 
 
 8.14 
 
 0.407 
 
 542 
 
 22 
 
 142 6700 
 
 8.03 
 
 0.365 
 
 544 
 
 24 
 
 136 6700 
 
 7.72 
 
 0.321 
 
 546 
 
 26 
 
 134 
 
 (5900 
 
 7.67 
 
 0.295 
 
 548 
 
 28 
 
 130 6950 
 
 7.47 
 
 0.266 
 
 550 
 
 30 
 
 126 6950 
 
 7.25 
 
 0.241 
 
 552 
 
 32 
 
 123 7000 
 
 7.09 
 
 0.221 
 
 555 
 
 34 
 
 119 7000 
 
 6.91 
 
 0.203 557 
 
 36 
 
 116 7000 
 
 6.74 
 
 0.187 559 
 
 38 
 
 114 7100 
 
 6.68 
 
 0.175 561 
 
 40 
 
 112 
 
 7150 6.58 
 
 0.164 
 
 563 
 
 42 
 
 110 
 
 7200 
 
 6.49 
 
 0.154 
 
 565 
 
 44 
 
 108 
 
 7200 
 
 6.37 
 
 0.144 
 
 567 
 
 46 
 
 105 
 
 7200 
 
 6.25 
 
 0.135 
 
 570 
 
 48 
 
 103 
 
 7200 
 
 6.14 
 
 0.128 
 
 572 
 
 50 
 
 101 
 
 7200 
 
 6.04 
 
 0.102 
 
 574 
 
 60 93 
 
 7300 
 
 5.69 
 
 0.094 
 
 585 
 
 The draft of the ring frame varies much with the quality of 
 cotton, the number of yarn being spun and whether the yarn is single 
 or double roving. 
 
 It is a fault, with many mill superintendents, to have the hank 
 roving, of the fine fly frame, coarse so the production will be large 
 which makes the draft of the ring frame long. This is productive 
 of uneven yarn, particularly when spun from single roving. In many 
 cases, the roving should be made fine enough so that the draft will be 
 from six to eight for single roving and from eight to twelve for double 
 roving. 
 
 The following program is for a mill, making flat duck, seven to 
 twelve ounces per yard, number ten warp, number five and one-half 
 filling from single roving. 
 
 303 
 
262 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 PROGRAM OF DRAFTS AND WEIGHTS 
 
 NO. 10 WARP. NO. 5$ FILLING 
 
 Weight of PicKer Lap 16 ounces 
 
 Weight of Card Lap less 5 per cent 6630 grains 
 
 Draft of Card 102 
 
 Weight of Card Sliver 65 grains 
 
 Double on Drawing Frame, 1st process 6 
 
 Draft on Drawing Frame, 1st process. 5.4 
 
 Weight of Drawing Sliver, 1st process 72.2 grains 
 
 Double on Drawing Frame, 2nd process -. . .6 
 
 Draft on Drawing Frame, 2nd process 5.4 
 
 Weight of Drawing Sliver, 2nd process 80 . 2 grains 
 
 Draft of Slubber 4.80 
 
 Hank Roving of Slubber 50 
 
 Double on Fine Frame 2 
 
 Draft on Fine Frame 4 . 00 and 5 .20 
 
 Hank Roving of Fine Frame 1 . 00 and 1 .30 
 
 Draft of Ring Frame 5.50 and 7. 70 
 
 No. of Yarn 5.50 filling and 1 warp 
 
 The slubber roving is .50 hank, and on account of the extreme 
 difference between the warp and filling yarn, it is necessary to make 
 two numbers of roving, on the fine frame, namely, 1.00 hank and 
 1.30 hank. 
 
 The weight of the picker lap is given in ounces per yard, but the 
 weight of the card lap is given in grains per yard, as the weight of 
 the card sliver is expressed in grains and the draft can be figured 
 more easily. 
 
 The weight of the card lap is figured as five per cent less than the 
 picker lap. Actually, there is no difference, as the lap from the 
 finisher picker goes directly to the back of the card, but as there is a 
 loss of about five per cent in carding, it is customary to take this 
 amount out of the weight of the lap. 
 
 The weight of slubber roving is given by the hank and, to find the 
 necessary draft to make the required hank roving, the following rule 
 may be used: Multiply the weight of the drawing sliver (80.2 grains) 
 by the required hank roving and divide by the weight of number one 
 hank roving (8.333 grains). 
 
 80.2 X .50 
 Example: * = 4.81 + 
 
 o.ooo 
 
 The next program is that of a mill, making cotton cloth, weighing 
 about three yards to the pound, thirty-six inches wide, number fourteen 
 warp and filling yarn, from single roving. 
 
 304 
 
COTTON SPINNING 263 
 
 PROGRAM OF DRAFTS AND WEIGHTS 
 
 NO. 14 WARP. NO. 14 FILLING 
 
 Weight of Picker Lap 14 ounces 
 
 Weight of Card Lap less 5 per cent 5818 grains 
 
 Draft of Card 97 
 
 Weight of Card Sliver GO grains 
 
 Double on Drawing Frame, 1st process 6 
 
 Draft of Drawing Frame, 1st process 6 
 
 Weight of Drawing Sliver, 1st process 60 grains 
 
 Double on Drawing Frame, 2nd process 6 
 
 Draft of Drawing Frame, 2nd process 6 
 
 Weight of Drawing Sliver, 2nd porccss 60 grains 
 
 Double on Drawing Frame, 3rd process 6 
 
 Draft of Drawing Frame, 3rd process. . . 6 
 
 Weight of Drawing Sliver, 3rd process 60 grains 
 
 Draft of Slubber , 5.00 
 
 Hank Roving of Slubber 70 
 
 Double on Fine Frame : 2 
 
 Draft of Fine Frame 5.70 
 
 Hank Roving of Fine Frame 2 . 00 
 
 Draft of Ring Frame 7 . 00 
 
 No. of Yarn 14 .00 
 
 The third program is for a yarn mill also making fourteen yarn 
 but from double roving. 
 
 PROGRAM OF DRAFTS AND WEIGHTS 
 
 NO. 14 HOSIERY YARN 
 
 Wright of Picker Lap 14 ounces 
 
 Weight of Card Lap less 5 per cent 5819 grains 
 
 Draft of Card 100 
 
 Weight of Card Sliver 58 grains 
 
 Double on Drawing Frame, 1st process G 
 
 Draft of Drawing Frame, 1 st process 6 
 
 Weight of Drawing Sliver, 1st process 58 grains 
 
 Double on Drawing Frame, 2nd process 6 
 
 Draft of Drawing Frame, 2nd process 6 
 
 Weight of Drawing Sliver, 2nd process 58 grains 
 
 Draft of Slubber 3.5 
 
 Hank Roving of Slubber 50 
 
 Double on Intermediate 2 
 
 Draft on Intermediate 4.4 
 
 Hank Roving of Intermediate 1.10 
 
 Double on Fine Frame 2 
 
 Draft of Fine Frame 5.5 
 
 Hank Roving of Fine Frame 3 . 00 
 
 Double on Ring Frame 2 
 
 Draft of Ring Frame 9.4 
 
 No. of Yarn 14 . 00 
 
 305 
 
264 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 Yarn, spun from double roving, produces a more even thread 
 than that spun from single roving, owing to the doubling of the two 
 ends. A thin or light place, in one end, will be offset by the other 
 end, but if an end breaks or runs out, the yarn spun from the remain- 
 ing end will be "single" and of incorrect weight. 
 
 The last program is for a mill making mule-spun hosiery yarn, 
 numbers ten to twenty-four, from 2.30 and 4.00 hank roving, double. 
 
 PROGRAM OF DRAFTS AND WEIGHTS 
 
 FROM 10's TO 24's HOSIERY YARN 
 
 Weight of Picker Lap 14 ounces 
 
 Weight of Card Lap less 5 per cent '. 5819 grains 
 
 Draft of Card 100 
 
 Weight of Card Sliver 58 grains 
 
 Double on Drawing Frame, 1st process 6 
 
 Draft of Drawing Frame, 1st process 6 
 
 Weight of Drawing Sliver, 1st process 58 grains 
 
 Double on Drawing Frame, 2nd process 6 
 
 Draft of Drawing Frame, 2nd process 6 
 
 Weight of Drawing Sliver, 2nd process 58 grains 
 
 Double on Drawing Frame, 3rd process 6 
 
 Draft of Drawing Frame, 3rd process 6 
 
 Weight of Drawing Sliver, 3rd process 58 grains 
 
 Draft of Slubber 3.83 
 
 Hank Roving of Slubber 55 
 
 Double on Intermediate 2 
 
 Draft of Intermediate 4 and 5 . 2 
 
 Hank Roving of Intermediate 1.10 and 1 . 43 
 
 Double on Fine Frame 2 and 2 
 
 Draft of Fine Frame 4.4 and 5 . 7 
 
 Hank Roving of Fine Frame 2 . 42 and 4 . 00 
 
 Double on Mule 2 and 2 
 
 Draft of Mule 9.1 and 12.00 
 
 No. of Yarn 1 1 . 01 and 24 . 00 
 
 NO. OF YARN 10's NO. OF YARN 16's 
 
 % 
 
 Hank Roving of Fine Frame ... 2.30 Hank Roving of Fine Frame ... 4 . 00 
 
 Double on Mule 2 Double on Mule 2 
 
 Draft of Mule 8.7 Draft of Mule 8 
 
 No. of Yarn 10.00 No. of Yarn 16.00 
 
 NO. OF YARN ll's NO. OF YARN 18's 
 
 Hank Roving of Fino Frame ... 2.30 Hank Roving of Fine Frame ... 4.00 
 
 Double on Mule 2 Double on Mule 2 
 
 Draft of Mule 9.6 Draft of Mule 9 
 
 No. of Yarn . . . . 1 1 . 04 No. of Yarn . . . . 18 . 00 
 
 303 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 265 
 
 NO. OF YARN 12's 
 
 Hank Roving of Fine Frame ... 2 . 30 
 
 Double on Mule 2 
 
 Draft of Mule 10.5 
 
 No. of Yarn 12.07 
 
 NO. OF YARN 14's 
 
 Hank Roving of Fine Frame ... 2 . 30 
 
 Double on Mule 2 
 
 Draft of Mule 12.2 
 
 No. of Yarn. . . .14.03 
 
 NO. OF YARN 20 's 
 
 Hank Roving of Fine Frame ... 4 . 00 
 
 Double on Mule 2 . 
 
 Draft of Mule -. . . 10 
 
 No. of Yarn 20 . 00 
 
 NO. OF YARN 24's 
 
 Hank Roving of Fine Frame ... 4 . 00 
 
 Double on Mule 2 
 
 Draft of Mule 12 
 
 No. of Yarn . . 24 
 
 MULE SPINNING 
 
 Briefly speaking, the mule consists of three parts : The beam for 
 supporting the rolls, creels, etc; the carriage which contains the drums 
 spindles, fallers and parts directly connected; and the headstock, or 
 mule head, which contains the various parts that control the move- 
 ments of the machine. The mules are placed in pairs, as shown in 
 Fig. 221, with the carriages toward each other, the headstock is located 
 a little nearer one end of the mule than the other, thus making a long 
 and a short side to the mule carriage, the short side always being to 
 the right hand of the headstock. 
 
 In explanation, the operations of the mule may be divided into 
 four stages. The first stage is called drawing and twisting; the 
 
 
 
 
 
 t-O/VG <S/OC 
 
 SHORT SIDE. 
 
 WORK 
 
 fl 
 
 
 ALLEY 
 
 SHORT S/OE 
 
 1 
 LONG <f/0f 
 
 
 
 Fig. 221. Plan of a Pair of Mules. 
 
 second, backing off; the third, winding and the fourth, re-engaging. 
 
 The roving is placed in the creels and passes through the rolls by 
 which it is drawn in the same manner as on the ring frame. 
 
 An elevation of the mule carriage is shown in Fig. 222 and a 
 plan of the gearing, in Fig. 223. The spindles, I/', and the drum, 
 C 6 , are in the carriage, E, which.moves back and forth in a horizontal 
 direction upon tracks, E 8 , which are called carriage tracks. 
 
 307 
 
266 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 When the operation of drawing and twisting commences, the 
 carriage is at the innermost point of its traverse, the point nearest 
 the rolls, and as the rolls revolve and deliver the yarn, the spindles 
 
 commence to turn and at the same instant, the carriage begins its 
 outward run and the yarn, being delivered by the rolls, is kept under 
 a slight tension and is twisted; when the carriage reaches the end of 
 
 308 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 2(>7 
 
 its outward run, or stretch, which is about sixty-four inches, it is 
 stopped and held for a brief period. 
 
 On the outward run, the driving belt is on the tight pulley, A, 
 and the spindles and rolls are revolving, the backing-off cone friction, 
 
 o < 
 
 Fig. 223. Plan of Gearing of the Mule. 
 
 B, is out of gear as is also the drawing-up friction, T 3 . The backing- 
 off friction is revolving, as it is driven from a gear on the hub of the 
 loose pulley, which revolves all the time, as the driving belt is slightly 
 wider than the face of the tight pulley and a portion of it runs upon 
 the loose pulley. 
 
 309 
 
2GS COTTON SPINNING 
 
 The speed of the driving pulley is 500 R. P. M. The spindles 
 are driven from the rim or twist pulley, A 2 , which is eighteen inches 
 in diameter and which is fast on the driving shaft, A 3 . The rim band, 
 C, runs from the rim pulley around the carrier pulley, C 1 , which is 
 fastened to the headstock. From this point, it passes forward and 
 around the carrier pulley, C 4 , which is upon the carriage, and then 
 passes back and around the drum pulley, C 3 , which is ten inches in 
 diameter. From here, the band passes forward around the carrier 
 pulley, C 2 , which is carried by an adjustable screw, E 5 , and which 
 is used for keeping the band tight, then it passes back and around a 
 carrier pulley, C 5 , and back to the twist pulley. 
 
 The drum, C 6 , is six inches in diameter and the whirl, C 7 , is 
 three-quarters of an inch. The speed of the spindles will be 7105 
 R. P. M. 
 
 Example: - X 500 =7105 
 
 10 X /-o 
 
 The front roll, D, is driven from the ma"in shaft by the twist gear, 
 D 1 , which has twenty-seven teeth, and the gears, D 2 , of fifty teeth, D 3 , 
 of twenty-five teeth and the front roll gear, D 4 , of fifty teeth. 
 
 The speed of the front rolls will be 135 R. P. M. 
 
 Example: }-?? X 500 == 135 
 
 The front roll is one inch in diameter, therefore, 135 revolutions 
 will give a delivery of 423.90 inches of yarn and during this time, 
 the spindles have made 7105 revolutions. 
 
 The twist, therefore, will be 16.76 twists per inch. 
 
 7105 
 Example: 423^0 = 
 
 The carriage, E, is drawn out by the back, or carriage shaft, E 1 , 
 which extends the whole length of the mule and has fast upon it three 
 scrolls, E 2 , one in the center and one at each end (the end ones are 
 not shown), which are about seven inches in diameter but terminate 
 at the ends in a smaller diameter. 
 
 The drawing-out bands, E 3 , which are fastened to the carriage, 
 pass back and around the scrolls and around carrier pulleys, E 2 . 
 The center carrier pulley runs loose upon the quadrant shaft while 
 the end ones turn on studs which are screwed to the ends of the mule 
 
 310 
 
COTTON SPINNING 269 
 
 framing. From the carrier pulleys, the bands pass back and are 
 fastened to the mule carriage. 
 
 The carriage shaft is driven from the front roll gear of fifty teeth 
 and through the intermediate gear of fifty teeth and the gears of 
 ninety-six and twenty-six teeth and the carriage shaft gear, D 7 , of 
 one hundred teeth. The speed of the carriage shaft is 18.28 R. P. M. 
 
 Xf) -y OA 
 
 Exam p' e: anna x 135 = 18 - 28 
 
 The scrolls are about seven inches in diameter and the scroll band 
 will be about seven and one-half inches in diameter when passed 
 around the scroll. 
 
 The traverse of the carriage will then be 430.67 inches per minute. 
 Example: 7.5 X 3.1416 X 18.28 => 43067 
 
 The stretch of the carriage is sixty-four inches and as the carriage 
 runs at the rate of 430.67 inches per minute, each stretch of sixty-four 
 inches will require about nine seconds time and as the rolls deliver 
 the yarn at the rate of 423.90 inches per minute, in nine seconds, they 
 will deliver g 9 ^ of 423.90 which is 63.58 inches. This shows that the 
 carriage travels a slight distance more than the inches delivered by 
 the front roll. This excess in travel is called the "gain" of the carriage 
 and amounts sometimes to two or three inches in each stretch, depend- 
 ing upon the quality and length of the cotton staple. 
 
 The advantage of the carriage gain is to subject the yarn to a 
 slight draft after it has left the rolls and as the twist in the yarn always 
 runs to the thin places, this additional drawing elongates the soft or 
 untwisted places which are thicker or larger in diameter and thus a 
 more even thread is produced." 
 
 Long staple cotton will permit of considerable draft, but with 
 short cotton little or no draft can be given the yarn after it has left 
 the rolls. 
 
 At the commencement of the outward run of the carriage, the 
 drawing-out bands are wound upon the large diameter of the scrolls 
 and the carriage runs at a uniform speed, but, as the scrolls terminate 
 in a smaller diameter, the carriage moves at a relatively slower speed 
 as it approaches the end of the run. 
 
 Backing-Off Motion. The next stage in the operations is called 
 the backing-off. By this is meant the reversion of all the necessary 
 parts from the position, occupied during the outward run, to the posi- 
 
 311 
 
270 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 tion which they are obliged to assume during winding. The mechan- 
 ism is shown in Figs. 224, 225 and 226. 
 
 At the end of the outward run, the carriage shaft clutch, H 1 , is 
 thrown out of gear, the rolls and spindles cease to turn and the carriage 
 is stationary. During this period, the spindles are caused to revolve 
 a few turns in the opposite direction to that which they turned in 
 
 B- 
 
 Fig. 224. Detail of Cam Shaft. 
 
 spinning. This unwinds the few coils of yarn that are around the 
 spindle between the top of the cop and the point of the spindle. The 
 winding faller, K 2 , which acts as a guide for the yarn, is brought down 
 into position and the counterfaller, K 3 , ascends, until it meets the 
 yarn, so as to maintain an even tension as it is wound upon the spindle. 
 The fallers are shown in this position in Fig. 226. This is brought 
 
 312 
 
COTTON SPINNING 271 
 
 about by the backing-off friction wheel, B, being brought into contact 
 with the tight pulley, A (Fig. 222). 
 
 The cone clutch on the cam shaft is put in gear, and, just 
 previous to the carriage arriving at the end of the run, the belt is 
 moved on the loose pulley, allowing the carriage to finish the stretch , 
 by its momentum. 
 
 At this point, it will be well to explain just how the backing-off 
 friction changes the direction of the rotations of the spindles. 
 
 The backing-off friction acts first as a stop for the rim, or driving 
 shaft, and secondly, to impart motion to it in the opposite direction. 
 The backing-off friction revolves all of the time because a part of the 
 driving belt is upon the loose pulley at all times and as the latter 
 drives the backing-off wheel by the gear of twenty-seven teeth, which 
 is fast upon the hub of the loose pulley, and the gears of seventy-seven 
 and eleven teeth, which are upon the backing-off shaft, W, and the 
 backing-off wheel of eighty teeth. The last is driven in the opposite 
 direction from the tight pulley at a very slow speed and, when suddenly 
 thrown into contact with the tight pulley, the friction acts first as a 
 brake and then turns the spindles a few revolutions, in the opposite 
 direction, before it is drawn out of contact. 
 
 In Fig. 225, is shown the device by which the backing-off friction 
 is operated. In the hub of the friction is a groove, in which runs a 
 clutch lever, P 1 , with its fulcrum at P 2 . The long end of the lever is 
 connected to a bell crank, P 3 . To the end of this bell crank is fastened 
 one end of the backing-off rod, B 1 , the other end being connected 
 to the backing-off lever, O 5 , by the spring, O 6 . The backing-off 
 lever is fastened to the headstock by a stud, S 7 . 
 
 As the carriage moves out, the tight pulley, A, and the backing-off 
 friction, B, are disengaged, but when the carriage arrives at the 
 end of the run, the backing-off arm, K 7 , comes against the roll, S 6 , 
 which is upon the lever, O 5 , the last, being raised. By so doing, 
 the rod, B 1 , is drawn forward in the direction shown by the arrow, 
 the friction is caused to engage with the tight pulley, and the spindles 
 are rotated in the opposite direction. 
 
 After the spindles have unwound sufficient length of yarn, by 
 their reverse movement, it is evident that they must be stopped else 
 too much yarn will be unwound. This is accomplished by the locking 
 of the fallers, whose movement causes the backing-off arm, K 7 , to be 
 
 313 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 314 
 
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 73 
 
 O ra 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 273 
 
 dropped, suddenly, out of contact with the roll on the backing-off 
 lever; this allows the spring, O 6 , to draw back on the lever which 
 comes against the collar, O 7 , upon the backing-off rod, moving the 
 rod back and the friction becomes disengaged. 
 
 The fallers are drawn down and locked in the following manner : 
 Upon the drum shaft, R 4 , is a plate, P, to the hub of which is fastened 
 one end of the backing-off chain, L 4 , the other end being fastened 
 to an arm, K 5 , which is upon the winding faller shaft, K 1 . During 
 the operation of drawing and twisting, the revolutions of the drum 
 
 FLOOR LINE 
 
 Fig. 236. Elevation Showing Details of Mule Carriage. 
 
 shaft have no effect on the plate, as it is loose upon the drum 
 shaft. But when the direction of the drum shaft is reversed, to unwind 
 the yarn from around the spindles, the plate also rotates, being driven 
 by a pawl and ratchet. The chain is thus wound around the hub of 
 the plate and the faller is drawn down into the position for winding 
 as shown in Fig. 226. 
 
 Resting upon the top of the builder, or copping rail, L 3 , is the 
 copping rail roll, L 2 , which is supported by an arm, L, called the 
 
 315 
 
274 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 trailer and which is fastened to the carriage by a stud, S 3 . The for- 
 ward end of this arm is free to swing up and down, and is supported 
 by a guide, P 4 . Just above the roll, L 2 , is a similar roll, L 1 , called 
 the locking roll against which rests the lower end of a lever, K 4 , 
 which is called the faller lock. This lock is hung from the arm, K 5 , 
 which is fastened to the winding faller shaft, K 1 . 
 
 When the carriage is on its outward run, the fuller lock rests 
 against the locking roll as shown in Fig. 225. But when the direction 
 of the drum is reversed and the faller is drawn down into position for 
 winding, the faller lock is drawn upwards, until the recess in its lower 
 part is raised high enough to fall forward over the locking roll, as 
 shown in Fig. 226, in which position the lock remains during the 
 inward run. 
 
 In transferring the driving belt on to the loose pulley, just previous 
 to the arrival of the carriage at the end of its outward run, a great 
 saving in time is made by a quicker backing-off. The device which 
 
 Fig. 227. Belt Relieving Motion. 
 
 controls this motion is called the belt relieving motion and is shown 
 in Fig. 227. As the carriage comes out, a projecting part, H 5 , comes 
 against the lever, H 4 , which through the rod, H 7 , bell crank, H 8 , and 
 connection, H 8 , moves the belt guide, D 6 , on to the loose pulley. 
 
 During the backing-off and while the fallers are being locked, the 
 carriage is held rigidly for a brief period to enable this motion to 
 operate before the carriage starts on its inward run. If some means 
 were not provided, the carriage, upon arriving at the end of the out- 
 ward run, would start back before the backing-off and the locking 
 of the fallers could take place. To prevent this, the mule is provided 
 with a holding-out catch which is shown in Figs. 225 and 226. Fas- 
 tened to the carriage by a stud, N 3 , is a lever, K 9 , called the holding-ouC 
 finger, while upon the fore part of the headstock is a lever, R 2 , called 
 the holding-out lever, one end of which is provided with a roll, R 3 , the 
 
 316 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 275 
 
 other end is fastened to the holding-out rod, R 6 , by collars, R 5 . This 
 lever has, for its fulcrum, a stud, R 4 . 
 
 When the carriage arrives at the end of the outward run, the hold- 
 ing-out finger comes against the roll in the end of the holding-out 
 lever and holds it firmly in position. By so doing, the drawing-up 
 friction, by which the carriage is drawn in, is held out of gear. When 
 the backing-off is completed and the fallers locked, the finger is lifted 
 clear of the roll and the holding-out rod allows the drawing-up 
 friction to drop into gear. 
 
 Backing=0ff Chain Tightening Motion. We have seen, 
 already, that at the end of the outward run, and after the carriage has 
 come to a dead stop, the winding faller descends and guides the yarn 
 
 Fig. 228. Elevation Showing Fallers. 
 
 on to the spindle, while the counter faller rises until it meets the 
 yarn, acting as a tension upon it. There remains to explain, in 
 connection with the fallers, the different conditions under which 
 they must work. 
 
 When drawing and twisting take place during the outward run 
 of the carriage, the fallers are in the position shown in Fig. 228. 
 The winding faller, K 2 , is above the yarn and the counter faller, K 3 , 
 is below, both clear of the yarn. But during the operation of'backing- 
 off, the fallers are made to assume the position shown in Fig. 229. 
 
 317 
 
276 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 The winding faller descends and guides the yarn on to the spindles, 
 and the counter faller rises until it meets the underside of the yarn and 
 acts as a tension upon it. 
 
 When the cop is in the early stages of formation, the length of 
 yarn, unwound from the bare spindle between the cop and point, 
 is considerable, as shown in Fig. 230 by the distance between the 
 point of the spindle, A, and the top of the cop, B. In order to move 
 the yarn from A to B, the winding faller wire must descend from C 
 to D while the counter faller wire rises from E to F. 
 
 As the cop grows longer and the position of the winding gradually 
 approaches the top of the spindle, the length cf yarn to be un wound- 
 is considerably less as shown by the distance between G and II in 
 
 Fig. 229. Elevation Showing Fallers. 
 
 Fig. 231. The winding faller will move from K to L only and the 
 counter faller, from M to N. It will thus be seen that the movements 
 of the fallers, during the early stages of the building of the cop, are 
 considerably greater than when approaching the finish and that the 
 length to be unwound, from around the bare spindle, is considerably 
 more, and it follows that the revolutions given to the spindle in a 
 reverse direction must gradually decrease. 
 
 The gradual decrease in the revolutions of the spindle and the 
 distance moved by the faller wires are regulated by the backing-off 
 chain tightening motion. 
 
 318 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 277 
 
 We have seen that the fallers are drawn down by .the backing-off 
 chain, which is wound around the backing-off plate, P, by the reverse 
 direction of the drum. 
 
 During the first part of the formation of the cop, a slack backing- 
 off chain is of no objection, as it gives the spindles an opportunity 
 to unwind the yarn before the faller wires 
 move down. In Fig. 230, the faller wire 
 moves from C to D in about the same 
 time as it does from K to L in Fig. 231. 
 This is a very much shorter distance, and, 
 unless the spindles have unwound a con- 
 siderable length of yarn, there is great 
 danger of the winding faller wire over- 
 taking and breaking the yarn. 
 
 As the cop grows longer, and the re- 
 verse movement of the spindles less, there 
 is not as much danger of this as the 
 movement from the position, occupied 
 during spinning, to that which is neces- 
 sary for winding, is considerably less and 
 the faller starts downward earlier at each 
 layer wound until, at the finish, it comes 
 down and just touches the yarn the mo- 
 ment the spindles commence their reverse 
 movement. 
 
 The device, by which this motion is 
 governed, is shown in Fig. 225 and is 
 operated in the following way. Attached 
 to the backing-off plate is one end of the 
 tightening chain, S 3 , the other end is 
 fastened to a lever, O 9 , called the chain 
 tightening lever, which turns on a stud, S 4 . As the carriage moves 
 out, this lever hangs in a position which causes its lower end to just 
 touch the chain tightening incline, O 8 . This incline is fastened to 
 the builder shoe connecting rod, O 4 , which connects the front and 
 back builder shoes. 
 
 As the building of the cop progresses and the builder shoes are 
 moved back, the incline is brought more and more into the path of the 
 
 Fig. 230. Diagram Showing 
 Movement of Fallers. 
 
 319 
 
278 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 chain tightening lever which causes the lever to unwind the tightening 
 chain and to wind the b'acking-off chain on to the plate. By this 
 movement, the slack, which exists in the backing-off chain during the 
 early stages of the cop building, is gradually taken out and the fallers 
 are drawn down a little earlier for each stretch of the carriage. 
 
 Winding. The third stage in the op- 
 erations of the mule is called winding. 
 
 Immediately after the fallers have 
 been brought into position and locked, 
 the carriage commences its inward run, 
 and the spindles rotate in the same direc- 
 tion as when twisting and, in so doing, 
 wind on to the cops the yarn that is re- 
 leased as the carriage runs in. The wind- 
 ing faller descends rapidly, and guides a 
 few coils down the cop and then rises 
 very slowly and arrives at the starting 
 point as the carriage reaches the end of its 
 inward run. 
 
 Before describing the winding opera- 
 tion, it is necessary to know what causes 
 the carriage to be drawn inward and also 
 to understand the changes that take place 
 by the partial rotation of the cam shaft 
 sleeve. 
 
 In Fig. 224 is shown a detail of the 
 cam shaft and in Fig. 232 an end elevation. 
 The cam shaft, D 1 , rotates all of the 
 time that the mule is running and is driven 
 from the backing-off shaft by the gears of 
 nineteen and thirty-eight teeth. 
 Covering almost the whole length of the cam shaft is a shell or 
 sleeve, D 8 , called the. cam shaft sleeve upon which are the various 
 cams. The first .one is the cam clutch and is made in halves, one 
 piece, D 2 , is fastened to the cam shaft and the other half, D 3 , to the 
 sleeve. The second cam is the front roll clutch cam, J 8 ; the third is 
 the carriage shaft clutch cam, H 3 ; and the fourth is the shipper cam, 
 I) 5 . 
 
 Fig. 231. Diagram Showing 
 Movement of Fallers. 
 
 320 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 279 
 
 On the outside of the headstock are two levers, B 6 and B 7 , called 
 the front and back change motion levers and which are connected 
 by a rod, B 5 , called the change motion rod. On the forward end of 
 the rod is the shipper dog, B 4 , which operates the cam clutch lever, B 2 . 
 
 Just as the carriage reaches the end of the outward run, a roll 
 B 9 , which is carried by a stand, forming part of the carriage, comes 
 against the lever, B 6 , and causes the rod to move forward and with it 
 
 Fig. 232. End Elevation of Cam Shaft. 
 
 the cam clutch lever. This movement causes the two parts, D 2 and 
 D 3 , of the cam clutch to engage and the cam shaft shell is given a half 
 revolution, causing all of the cams to assume opposite positions to 
 those which they occupied during the outward run. 
 
 When the cam sleeve has made a half revolution, the clutch is 
 caused to be disengaged by the peculiar shape of the cam clutch lever. 
 
 In Fig. 233, it will be seen, that both parts, J and J 1 , of the front 
 roll clutch, are engaged and we will assume that the front roll is 
 revolving, which is the case when the carriage runs out, but when the 
 cam sleeve changes, the position of the cam is directly opposite from 
 that which is shown in the drawing. This disengages the clutch 
 and stops the rotation of the front roll. 
 
 Fig. 234 shows both parts, H and H 1 , of the carriage shaft clutch 
 
 321 
 
280 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 as engaged for drawing the carriage out, but with the changing of the 
 cam sleeve, the clutch is disengaged and the revolutions of the carriage 
 shaft cease. H 1 is made in two pieces with corrugated faces which 
 are kept in contact by a heavy steel spring, W 6 . Should anything 
 obstruct the outward movement of the carriage, this spring will "give" 
 and allow the clutch to rotate without imparting movement to the 
 carriage. 
 
 In the end elevation (Fig. 232) the belt shipper cam, D 5 , is shown 
 in the position necessary on the outward run. The belt is upon the 
 
 Fig. 233. Elevation Showing Front lloll Clutch. 
 
 tight pulley, but with the half revolution of the cam sleeve, the belt 
 guide is locked into position over the loose pulley. 
 
 We have already seen that just before the carriage arrives at 
 the end of the outward run, the belt is moved on to the loose pulley 
 by the belt relieving motion, but unless the belt is locked into position 
 by the shipper cam, it will be moved back on to the tight pulley by the 
 inward run of the carriage. 
 
 The carriage is drawn in, in the following manner : On the scroll 
 shaft, R 10 , Fig. 223, are the scrolls, A, B and C, upon which are wound 
 the drawing-up bands. The scroll shaft is driven from the backing- 
 off shaft through the gears of fifteen, nineteen, thirteen and thirty- 
 eight teeth. 
 
 On the lower end of the drawing-up shaft, S, is the drawing-up 
 
 322 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 281 
 
 friction, P, which rotates with the shaft. The bottom of the friction, 
 T 3 , upon which is the bevel gear of thirteen 
 teeth, is mounted loosely upon the shaft. 
 
 During the outward run, the scroll shaft 
 is caused to rotate by the movement of the 
 carriage, but when the outward movement 
 ceases and the cam shell changes, the drawing- 
 
 H 
 
 H 
 
 Fig. 234. Elevation Showing Carriage Shaft Clutch. 
 
 up friction, P, engages with the lower part, T 3 , 
 and the carriage is drawn in. The scrolls, A 
 and B, serve for this purpose, while the scroll, 
 C, acts as a check upon the carriage. The 
 scroll band unwinds from C while the other 
 bands are winding around A and B. 
 
 It will be necessary to refer to Fig. 235 to 
 understand the actual winding operation. 
 During the outward run, sixty-four inches of 
 yarn have been delivered and it is necessary 
 that the spindles shall be given a sufficient number of revolutions, 
 and at the correct speed, to wind on this length as it is released by 
 the inward run. 
 
 We will assume, that while winding the first layer, the spindle 
 
 Fig. 235. Diagram of Cop 
 Showing Winding. 
 
 323 
 
282 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 will be one-quarter inch diameter in the distance, A-B, and it must 
 be revolved at a constant speed to wind the sixty-four inches, but as 
 succeeding layers are added, and the diameter of the cop increases, 
 the commencing point is higher each time and the finishing point is 
 raised at a greater proportion. This lengthens the "chase", as the 
 surface of the cop is called, which is shown by the line, C-D. There 
 is produced a cone-shaped surface until, when the cop reaches its 
 full diameter, as shown by the lines, E-E, the commencing and 
 finishing points are raised in the same proportion at each stretch, 
 which forms a straight cylindrical shape as shown by the outlines, 
 E-E and G-G. 
 
 When winding the first layer, the speed of the spindle must be 
 constant and, as its diameter is one-quarter of an inch, 81.48 revolu- 
 tions will be necessary to wind sixty-four inches of yarn. 
 
 - 81 - 48 
 
 When the cop reaches the diameter shown at C-C, which we will 
 call one-half of an inch, its speed at the bottom must be 40.74 revolu- 
 tions. 
 
 As the winding moves up the cone, the speed of the spindle 
 increases until at the point, DD, which is one-quarter of an inch in 
 diameter, its speed is 81.48 revolutions. 
 
 When the cop reaches its full diameter at EE, which we will call 
 one inch, its speed must be 20.37 R. P. M. or one-fourth as great as 
 the speed of the bare spindle. 
 
 It will be seen that the increase in speed of the spindle must be 
 proportionate to the decrease in its tliameter, as the yarn is wound 
 up toward the top of the chase, and the speed decreases for each new 
 layer, while the bottom of the cop is being formed, until the full 
 diameter is reached. From this point, the speed of the cop, at the 
 commencement of each layer, is the same, 20.37 R. P. M., while the 
 speed of the spindle, at the finish of each layer, is also the same, 81.48 
 R. P. M., except the number of revolutions necessary to compensate 
 for the taper of the spindle which will be considered later. 
 
 Quadrant. When the carriage runs out, the spindles are driven 
 by the rim band, but when winding, the spindles are caused to rotate 
 
 324 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 283 
 
 by the quadrant chain, Q 1 , one end of which is attached to the quad- 
 rant arm, Q, the other fastened to the winding drum, W 5 , as shown in 
 Fig. 223. Connected to this drum is a gear of sixty-eight teeth, which 
 
 -1-i-l 
 
 -4_4 
 
 a & 
 
 *- fo 
 
 drives a gear of thirty-four teeth, the latter connected to the drum 
 shaft by a pawl and ratchet; the spindle drum makes two revolutions 
 to one of the winding drum. 
 
 325 
 
284 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 While drawing and twisting are going on, the winding drum is 
 driven by a special band and the chain is wound. 
 
 Fig. 236 is a diagram of the quadrant arm and winding drum in 
 several positions. The quadrant arm moves about ninety degrees, 
 from A to B, while the carriage is making the whole of its run from 
 I to L. While the first layer is winding, the nut by which the chain 
 is attached to the arm is at C, its lowest -position, nearest the fulcrum 
 at S, and as the quadrant arm moves the ninety degrees, this point 
 will move to D while the carriage moves the whole length of the inward 
 run. 
 
 The movement of the nut as compared to the movement of the 
 carriage will be very slight, and the spindles will be rotated at nearly a 
 uniform speed. 
 
 When the cop has reached one-half inch diameter, the nut will 
 have moved up the arm to a point at E. Here it is shown in four 
 positions marked, E, F, G and H. The winding drum is shown also 
 in four positions, marked I, J, K and L. 
 
 When the nut moves from E to F, the chain will have moved in a 
 horizontal line, equal to the distance from O to P, and the drum will 
 move from I to J. When it reaches G, the movement is less as shown 
 by the distance, P-Q, and the drum moves from J to K, the same 
 distance as before. As the nut reaches the point H, the movement 
 w r ill be considerably less, as shown by the distance, Q-R, and the 
 carriage moves from K to L, the same distance as in each of the other 
 stages. 
 
 During the early stages of the building of the cop, the horizontal 
 movement of the quadrant nut is more uniform and the spindles are 
 run at nearly a uniform speed. 
 
 When the carriage starts to run in, from I to J, the horizontal 
 movement of the nut, from C to D, corresponds, nearly, to the move- 
 ment of the carriage and the spindles run at a comparatively slow 
 speed but as the carriage recedes from the starting point, the hori- 
 zontal movement of the nut decreases in proportion to the movement 
 of the carriage and the spindles are turned at a proportionately faster 
 speed, by more of the chain unwinding from around the drum. 
 
 When the cop reaches its largest diameter, the nut is at its highest 
 point, A, and remains at this point until the cop is finished. The 
 speed of the spindles, at different points for each stretch, is the same. 
 
 326 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 285 
 
 Reference has been made to the fact of the spindle being larger 
 at the base than at the point, and that some means must be employed 
 to make up for this difference. If this is not done, the noses of the 
 
 [ol 
 
 ftl *- 
 
 m 
 
 cops will be soft, caused by slack winding. To overcome this, a 
 device, called the automatic nosing motion, is used. 
 
 The winding drum is made with a straight face, for the greater 
 
 327 
 
286 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 portion of its length, but terminates in a smaller diameter at the end 
 of which the chain is fastened. 
 
 While the first half of the cop is building, the chain unwinds from 
 the straight face of the drum, but as the cop approaches the finish, 
 the chain is gradually shortened by winding around a drum formed 
 on the quadrant nut. This causes the chain to unwind on to the 
 smaller diameter of the winding drum and g'ves the spindles a few 
 additional turns just as the carriage arrives at the end of the run. 
 
 Builder. By referring to Fig. 225, the builder, or copping rail, 
 will be seen to consist of two parts, a main piece, L 3 , and a short piece, 
 'O 3 , called the loose incline. 
 
 The main piece is supported at the front by the builder shoe, 
 O 1 , and at the back by the shoe, O 10 . The forward end of the loose 
 .incline is supported by the shoe, O 2 . The shoes are connected by the 
 
 rod, O 4 . At each stretch, the shoes are 
 moved back, causing the rail to drop a 
 little and the fallers to rise a correspond- 
 ing distance, thus bringing the winding 
 higher upon the spindles. 
 
 Fig. 237 shows the copping rail, A, 
 composed of one piece and supported at 
 each end by shoes, B and C. The fal- 
 lers are shown above in three positions, 
 1, 2 and 3. 
 
 When winding commences, the faller 
 wire is in the first position but, when the 
 carriage reaches the highest point in the 
 rail, at the second position, the faller 
 wire has descended to the lowest point. 
 From here to the third position, the faller 
 rises slowly until it reaches the same height as the starting point. 
 This will cause the yarn to wind on to the spindle, as shown in Fig. 
 238, by the distance C to D. The distance, C to D, is considerably 
 greater than the distance, A to B, and the finishing point, D, has 
 risen from A to D at a much quicker rate than the commencing, 
 which has moved from B to C, only. It is evident that if the rail 
 is composed of one piece, it will cause all of the layers to be wound 
 the same height. 
 
 Fig. 238. Diagram of Cop 
 Showing Winding. 
 
 328 
 
COTTON SPINNING 287 
 
 The way to overcome this is to have a loose incline as shown 
 in Fig. 239. 
 
 The builder rail, H, I and J, is made in two pieces, the surface, 
 H-I, is hinged to J at I. By this means, it is possible to lower the 
 points, H and J, as much as is shown by the distance, M, and as these 
 points represent the start and finish of the stretch, it will be seen that 
 the yarn must commence and finish winding at the same point, while 
 the point, I, must fall to a less extent than either the points, J or H, 
 as shown by the distance, L. The distance, L, represents the move- 1 
 ment B to C in Fig. 238 and the distance, M, represents the movement 
 AtoD. 
 
 This continues while the bottom of the cop is building after 
 which the points, H, I and J, fall to the same extent, as the winding 
 gradually approaches the top of the spindle. 
 
 When the inward run is finished, the fallers are unlocked. The 
 cam sleeve is given a half revolution and the parts are caused to re-eri- 
 
 Fig. 239. Diagram Showing Loose Incline. 
 
 gage ready to commence the operation of drawing and twisting again. 
 The front roll clutch is put in gear, the drawing-up friction is disen- 
 gaged and the belt is moved on to the tight pulley. 
 
 During the run in, while the front roll clutch is disengaged, the 
 front roll is caused to turn about one revolution, being driven from 
 the carriage shaft by what is called the roller motion, shown in Fig. 
 240. This consists of a plate, A 4 , keyed to the front roll which carries 
 a pawl, A 8 , held by a spring, A 7 , in contact with teeth formed on the 
 inside of the roller motion gear, A 5 . 
 
 When the carriage runs out, the front roll is driven from the 
 twist gear, as already described, but when it runs in, motion is com- 
 municated to the front roll, from the carriage shaft, through the gears 
 of twenty-two, fifty and seventy teeth (Fig. 222) by the pawl engaging 
 the teeth of the roller motion gear. 
 
288 
 
 COTTON SPINNING 
 
 Snarls are produced in yarn in many ways. Following are 
 some causes: 
 
 The quadrant nut may be too high. 
 
 The fallers may unlock too soon. 
 
 The nosing motion may not operate until the cops get too full. 
 
 Fig. 240. Roller Motion. 
 
 There may not be enough gain in the carriage. 
 
 If the counter faller is too high on the outward run, it will lift 
 the yarn from the points of the spindles. 
 
 The rim and spindle bands may be too slack. 
 
 If the ends are left down too long, snarls will be made, when the 
 end is pieced up, by the cop not being pushed up the spindle. 
 
 The snarling motion may not be set correctly. 
 
 The bolsters and steps for the spindles may be badly worn. 
 
 .Uneven roving will cause snarls by winding loosely on some 
 spindles and tightly on others. 
 
 Snarling Motion. To overcome snarling of the yarn, the mule 
 is provided with what is called a snarling motion, which is shown in 
 Fig. 241. 
 
 Around the loose half of the front roll clutch, J 1 , passes a strap, 
 J 3 , connected to the back end of which is a weight, J 5 ; on the front 
 end is a smaller weight, J 6 . Both parts, J and J 1 , of the clutch are 
 mounted loosely upon the front roll, D. A dog, J 2 , is keyed to the 
 shaft. On the part, J 1 , of the clutch are two lugs which project 
 between the ears of the dog, J 2 . 
 
 330 
 
COTTON SPINNING 
 
 289 
 
 When the teeth of J 1 are caused to engage with the teeth of J, 
 motion is communicated to the front roll by the lugs on J 1 turning 
 until they come in contact with the ears of the dog. When J 1 
 turns, the friction of the strap carries the weight, J 5 , up, until it comes 
 in contact with J 1 , where it remains until the end of the outward run 
 
 50 TEETH 
 
 ^ D 
 
 Fig. 241. Snarling Motion. 
 
 is reached. When the clutch is thrown out, the part, J 1 , is turned 
 backward by the weight, J 5 , overbalancing J 6 , until the lugs come 
 against the back side of the ears of J 2 . The carriage starts out at 
 the same time that the clutch is thrown in, and, as no movement is 
 given to the front roll until the lugs come against the ears of the 
 carrier, the snarls are taken out of the yarn by the outward movement 
 of the carriage. 
 
 331 
 
INDEX 
 
 The page numbers of this volume will be found at the bottom of the 
 pages; the numbers at the top refer only to the section. 
 
 Adjustable cylinder bearing 
 Applying clothing 
 Automatic feeder and opener 
 Automatic feeder, evener for 
 Automatic safety-stop 
 
 Back plate 
 
 Back stop motion of slubber 
 
 Backing-off chain tightening motion 
 
 Backing-off motion 
 
 Bale 
 
 dimensions of 
 
 opening of 
 Bale breaker 
 Baling cotton 
 
 Bessonette 
 
 "Lowry bale" 
 
 "round-lap" system 
 
 square bale 
 Beaters 
 
 Bessonette bale 
 Bobbin lead 
 
 Botanical varieties of cotton 
 Breaker picker 
 
 with condenser and gauge-box 
 
 with screen section 
 Builder 
 
 Builders used on ring frame 
 Burnishing 
 
 Calculations 
 
 of card production 
 
 for comb 
 Note. For page numbers see foot of pages. 
 
 127 
 
 132 
 
 46 
 
 74 
 
 91 
 
 114 
 251 
 317 
 311 
 
 Calculation 
 
 of draft 
 
 of production of machine 
 
 of weight of lap 
 Cap bars 
 
 Card clothing, kinds of wire for 
 Card room, arrangement of 
 Carding 
 
 theory of 
 Carrier roll 
 Change gears, table 
 "Churka" 
 Cleaning trunk 
 
 Page 
 
 170 
 
 171 
 
 93 
 
 277 
 
 136 
 
 101 
 
 101 
 
 .105 
 
 215 
 
 227 
 
 17 
 
 43 
 
 39 
 
 Clearers 
 
 218 
 
 32 
 
 Clothing 
 
 
 33 
 
 applying of 
 
 132 
 
 20 
 
 for cylinders, doffer, and flats 
 
 129 
 
 21 
 
 defects in 
 
 129 
 
 22 
 
 number of wire and points per square 
 
 
 21 
 
 foot hi 
 
 133 
 
 20 
 
 Coiler 
 
 119 
 
 57 
 
 Color of cotton 
 
 31 
 
 21 
 
 Comb 
 
 174 
 
 233 
 
 Combed yarns 
 
 165 
 
 13 
 
 Combination breaker and finisher 
 
 64 
 
 43 
 
 Combing 
 
 165 
 
 51 
 
 Combing machines, arrangement of 
 
 165 
 
 61 
 
 Condenser 
 
 51 
 
 242, 328 
 
 Cones 
 
 239 
 
 289 
 
 eveners for 
 
 186 
 
 149 
 
 Cotton 
 
 
 
 baling of 20. 
 
 39 
 
 
 botanical varieties of 
 
 13 
 
 
 color of 
 
 31 
 
 152 
 
 cultivation of American 
 
 15 
 
 19S 
 
 drawing of 
 
 201 
 
 333 
 
II 
 
 INDEX 
 
 
 Page 
 
 I 
 
 'age 
 
 Cotton 
 
 
 Empty bobbin, speed of 
 
 236 
 
 Egyptian 
 
 26 
 
 Even running as to length of staple 
 
 32 
 
 ginning of 
 
 17 
 
 Evener cones 
 
 86 
 
 grading of 
 
 27 
 
 Evener motion 
 
 203 
 
 Gulf 
 
 26 
 
 Eveners 
 
 74 
 
 invoicing of 
 
 32 
 
 for pickers 
 
 81 
 
 length of staple 
 
 30 
 
 
 
 mixing of 
 
 34 
 
 F 
 
 
 moisture in 
 
 31 
 
 Fan draft 
 
 54 
 
 motes in 
 
 28 
 
 Feed motion 
 
 177 
 
 neps in 
 
 28 
 
 Feed plates jo7, 
 
 114 
 
 opening of 
 
 40 
 
 Filling cam 
 
 292 
 
 Peruvian 
 
 27 
 
 Filling yarn, table 
 
 303 
 
 picking of 
 
 16. 40 
 
 Flat chain 
 
 127 
 
 pulling of 
 
 130 
 
 Flat grinders 
 
 142 
 
 round bale 
 
 39 
 
 Flats 
 
 115 
 
 Sea Island 
 
 25 
 
 Flexible bend 
 
 122 
 
 strength of staple 
 
 30 
 
 Fluted rolls 
 
 256 
 
 Texas 
 
 27 
 
 diameter of 
 
 220 
 
 uniformity in length 
 
 30 
 
 Fly frames 
 
 228 
 
 Upland 
 
 27 
 
 Flyer, speed of 
 
 236 
 
 in the U. 8. 
 
 12 
 
 Flyer lead 
 
 233 
 
 value of 
 
 24 
 
 Friction let-off 
 
 89 
 
 Cotton fiber 
 
 11. 36 
 
 Front roll, speed of 
 
 236 
 
 Cotton plant, history of 
 
 11 
 
 Full cam stop motion 
 
 217 
 
 Cotton spinning 
 
 39. 331 
 
 Full bobbin stop motion 
 
 248 
 
 Cotton wax 
 
 23 
 
 "Furnace test" for moisture in cotton 
 
 31 
 
 Creels 
 
 275 
 
 
 
 Cultivation of American cotton 
 
 15 
 
 G 
 
 
 Cut staple 
 
 19 
 
 Gauge-box 
 
 52 
 
 Cylinder doffer and flats 
 
 111 
 
 Gauges for setting doffer, etc. 
 
 113 
 
 Cylinder screen 
 
 113 
 
 Gearing 115, 
 
 296 
 
 D 
 
 
 comber 
 
 197 
 
 Detaching roll cams 
 
 186 
 
 Ginning cotton 
 
 17 
 
 Detaching roll motion 
 
 183 
 
 Gins 
 
 
 Diameter of fluted rolls 
 
 220 
 
 prior 
 
 18 
 
 Doffer 
 
 115 
 
 roller 
 
 17 
 
 Doffer comb 
 
 115 
 
 saw 
 
 17 
 
 Double boss 
 
 257 
 
 Gossypium arboreum 
 
 13 
 
 Drafts and weights 
 
 304, 306 
 
 Gossypium barbadense 
 
 13 
 
 Drawing of cotton 
 
 201 
 
 Gossypium herbaceum 
 
 14 
 
 Drawing frames 
 
 206 
 
 Gossypium hirsutum 
 
 14 
 
 operation of 
 
 208 
 
 Grading of cotton 
 
 27 
 
 Dust-room 
 
 43 
 
 Grinder rolls 
 
 
 
 
 driving of 
 
 138 
 
 E 
 
 
 speed of 
 
 142 
 
 Egyptian cotton 
 
 26 
 
 Grinders 
 
 
 Electrical stop motion 
 
 213 
 
 flat 
 
 142 
 
 Note. For page numbers see foot of pages. 
 
 334 
 
Grinders 
 
 long-roll 
 
 traverse 
 
 Grinding of cylinder and doffer 
 Grinding former i . 
 Gulf cotton 
 
 H 
 
 Horizontal cleaning trunk 
 
 Inclined cleaning trunk 
 Intermediate and finisher pickers 
 Invoicing of cotton 
 
 K 
 
 Knock-off device 
 
 Lap, weight of 
 Laps from the breaker 
 Leader, cylinder, and flats 
 Leader and leader screen 
 Leader clothing 
 Long-roll grinder 
 Long-staple cotton 
 Lowry bale 
 
 M 
 
 Mechanical back stop motion 
 
 Metallic top roll 
 
 Mixing of cotton 
 
 Moisture in cotton 
 
 Mote knife 
 
 Motes in cotton 
 
 Motion 
 
 backing off chain tightening 
 
 detaching roll 
 
 evener 
 
 feed 
 
 reversing 
 
 snarling 
 
 stop 
 
 top comb 
 Mule spinning 
 
 N 
 
 Neps in cotton 
 Neppy cotton 
 
 Note. For page numbers see foot of pages. 
 
 INDEX 
 
 III 
 
 Page 
 
 I 
 
 Page 
 
 
 Nipper and cushion plate 
 
 180 
 
 140 
 
 Nipper cam lever 
 
 180 
 
 141 
 
 
 
 
 138 
 
 
 
 
 Old style feeder 
 
 45 
 
 146 
 
 
 
 26 
 
 Opening bale 
 
 32 
 
 
 Opening cotton 
 
 40 
 
 
 P 
 
 
 50 
 
 Peruvian cotton 
 
 27 
 
 
 Pickers 
 
 
 
 eveners for 
 
 81 
 
 60 
 
 intermediate and finisher 
 
 55 
 
 55 
 
 Picking cotton 
 
 16, 40 
 
 32 
 
 system of 
 
 41 
 
 
 Picking machinery on different floors 
 
 59 
 
 
 Pitch of scroll 
 
 126 
 
 92 
 
 Prior gin 
 
 18 
 
 
 "Pulling cotton" 
 
 30 
 
 93 
 
 R 
 
 
 43 
 
 Railway head 
 
 201 
 
 109 
 
 Ratchet gears 
 
 290 
 
 114 
 
 Reversing motion 
 
 241 
 
 128 
 
 Rib set clothing, table 
 
 135 
 
 140 
 
 Ribbon lapper 
 
 172 
 
 32 
 
 Ring spinning 
 
 269 
 
 22 
 
 Ring travelers 
 
 286 
 
 
 Roll stands and weighting 
 
 277 
 
 
 Roller gin 
 
 17 
 
 216 
 
 
 
 
 Rolls 
 
 
 223 
 
 
 
 
 fluted 
 
 256 
 
 34 
 
 
 
 31 
 
 metallic top 
 
 223 
 
 110, 114 
 
 setting of 
 
 220 
 
 28 
 
 shell 
 
 221 
 
 
 solid top 
 
 222 
 
 
 top 
 
 221 
 
 317 
 
 
 
 
 Round bale 
 
 39 
 
 183 
 
 
 
 
 Round-lap bale 
 
 21 
 
 203 
 
 
 
 
 
 Roving table 
 
 231 
 
 177 
 
 
 
 241 
 
 S 
 
 
 330 
 
 
 
 
 Saw gin 
 
 17 
 
 210 
 
 
 
 
 Scavenger 
 
 277 
 
 191 
 
 Scroll adjustment 
 
 124 
 
 307 
 
 
 
 
 Sea Island cotton 
 
 25 
 
 
 Self-weighted top rolls 
 
 279 
 
 28 
 
 Separators 
 
 284 
 
 20 
 
 Setting of rolls 
 
 220 
 
 335 
 
IV 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Settings of parts of card 
 
 Shell rolls 
 
 Short-staple cotton 
 
 Single boss 
 
 Sliver guide 
 
 Sliver lap machine 
 
 Slubber 
 
 Snarling motion 
 
 Solid top roll 
 
 Speed of grinder rolls 
 
 Spindles 
 
 Spinning of cotton 
 
 Spinning rings 
 
 Splitting of laps 
 
 Square bale 
 
 Staple, length of 
 
 Stop motion 
 
 electrical 
 
 full bobbin 
 
 full cam 
 
 mechanical back 
 Stringy or "tailed" cotton 
 Stripping comb 
 Stripping plate 
 Systems of picking cotton 
 
 Tables 
 
 change gears 
 
 filling yarn 
 
 grades of American cotton 
 
 grades of Brazilian cotton 
 
 grades of Egyptian cotton 
 
 of measure 
 Note. For page numbers see foot of pages 
 
 Page 
 
 
 Page 
 
 113 
 
 Tables 
 
 
 221 
 
 revolutions of spindle 
 
 298 
 
 32 
 
 rib set clothing 
 
 135 
 
 257 
 
 ring travelers 
 
 287 
 
 215 
 
 roving 
 
 231 
 
 167 
 
 sliver lap machine 
 
 172 
 
 231 
 
 speeds of evener roll and driver cones 88 
 
 330 
 
 twill set clothing 
 
 135 
 
 222 
 
 warp yarn 
 
 302 
 
 142 
 
 of weight 
 
 230 
 
 282 
 
 Texas cotton 
 
 27 
 
 39, 269 
 
 Thread boards 
 
 282 
 
 284 
 
 Three-storied mill arrangement 
 
 63 
 
 54 
 
 Timing and setting 
 
 192 
 
 "20 
 
 Timing dial 
 
 178 
 
 30 
 
 "Tinged" cotton 
 
 31 
 
 210 
 
 Top comb 
 
 185 
 
 213 
 
 Top comb motion 
 
 191 
 
 248 
 
 Top rolls 
 
 221 
 
 217 
 
 self-weighted 
 
 279 
 
 216 
 
 Traveler, principle of 
 
 287 
 
 20 
 
 Traverse grinders 
 
 141 
 
 115 
 
 Twill set clothing, table 
 
 135 
 
 54, 115 
 
 
 
 41 
 
 U 
 
 
 
 
 Upland cotton 
 
 27 
 
 
 W 
 
 
 227 
 
 Warp builder, setting of 
 
 293 
 
 303 
 
 Warp yarn, table 
 
 302 
 
 29 
 
 Winding, in operation of mule 
 
 320 
 
 30 
 
 
 
 29 
 
 Y 
 
 
 230 
 
 Yarn 
 
 165 
 
 336 
 
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