.?,} ^TiiaDNVSOV"^ % ^.OFCAllFO% .^weuniverva ^lOSANCElfx^ ^OFCAIIFO/?^ ^OFCA ^fiiJONVSov^^ "^AaaAiNO iw'^ ^^Aavaan-^^^ vKlOSANCElfj> o %a3AiNn-3^v ^ILIBRARYQ^ ^ILIBRARYQ^ A\^EUNIVER% vvlOSANCElfj> o ^OF-CAii,.„„^ ^0FCA1IF0% so -< Vr)l ;S> ^. .imiSTilfx^ 3^ ^^ :<»' §^ %Jil\!N'il ]\\^' .'^'^ \ ^ i? ^ <: ^^OFCALTO^^ - .^ i- £? ^ ^> I' £? <\\F1!MIVERS'/A ,vvlOS-A ^Til^ONYSO^^ %H1M ^\WEUNIVERS"//) o vvlOSANGElfXx o ^/Sa3AINn3V\V ^^OFCAllFOft^ ^.OfCAllF0% -sj^lllBRARYO/C %0JI1V3J0>^ ^-f/OJUVDJO"^ ^WE UNIVERS-//, o ^lOSANCElfj^, o ^ ^ ^ -< %iJ3AINn-3WV^ .^;OFCA1IFO% ^.OFCAIIFO«>^ '^^Aavaeii-^'^ ^ o Aav}i8ni"^ ^^ Theatre. Corinna. Conjecture on - - - - - 17 Observation of Pausanias. Temples - - - .18 jMount Cithsron. Euripides - - - - .18 Inscription ...---.-19 CHAP. III. Oropus. Present state of this district Ancient site of Oropus, not at Oropci, iiut on the Sea ('onjccturc on Dicfcarchus ... 21 24 25 X CONTENTS. CHAP. IV. Aphidnae. PAGE Barth^leniy's Voyage— his description of the route from Athens to Oropus .-------26 Conjecture on Philemon's Lexicon and on Dicsearchus. Aphidna; found - - - - - - 27 Helen. Tyrtaeus. Harmodius and Aristogeiton, Callimachus - 29 Mount Parnes. View. Present aspect - - - 30 Ancient IMilitary Tower - - - - - - 31 CHAP. V. CxKAMMATICd. RhAMNUS. Night in Albanian Cottage - - - Rhamnus, site of - - - - Two Temples - . - - The larger, dedicated to Nemesis Inscription there . - - - The smaller, also dedicated to Nemesis Thrones there . . . - Conjecture on the two Temples Scenery of Rhamnus ... Antipho the Rhamnusian Names, ancient and modern, of Rhamnus 32-5 35 35 36 37 39 39 40-1 41-2 42 43 CHAP. VI. Marathok. Description of Plain. .Alound. Marshes Picture of. in Popcile . . - Battle of IMarathon. Time of year, and of day Macaria. HeracleidfE . . . Marathonian Tctrapolis ... Local arrangement of Attic Demi Present state of this district - 44 - 46 - 46 - 47 - 48 - 4!l 49-50 CHAP. VII. Athens. Present state of Athens f'omparison between that and llic present stale of Rome l?ooks on tlic topography of Athens 51 52 53 CONTENTS. CHAP. Vlll. Athens. Mount Lycabetlus. IMount St George. View of Athens. Outline, and limits of the City Mount St George is the ancient Lycabettus - - - "y Proofs from Plato, Aristophanes (conjecture on) Marinus - 58-60 The Anchesmus (of Pausanias) an intermediate name for the same uu - - - - 60 hill - - - „^ Socrates on tlie soil of Lycabettus. oooi - - - - ou CHAP. IX. Athens. Climate and Soil of Athens - - - - t>2 Architectural results from, in private dwellings, pavements, seats, cisterns, &,c. ------- And in Public Edifices— ihe Pnyx - - - - CHAP. X. Athens. The Pnyx, or Parliament of Athens. 63 64 Site, aspect, form, size and name of the Pnyx - - 65 n ----- 66 Bema - - - - Influence exerted upon Athenian eloquence, by the local peculiarities of the Pnyx - - - - " " ';'' Influence of its Natural Elements - - - - - ^'J Of its visible objects, natural, historical, political and artiHciai - 68 Illustrations from Demosthenes and ^schines - - - 69 Considerations from the Size of the Pnyx - - - 70 Illustrations of Aristophanes, from locality, &c. of the Pnyx - 71 Two Bemas. Conjecture on - - - - - - 72-4 CHAP. XI. Athens. The Areopagus. 7r» Areopagus, present view of - - - - " Steps, tribunal, &c. - - - " " " 7 ' Si Paul preaching here '7 Local suggestions from objects around liim - - - 77 Cougruity of his sermon will) the place where it was preached - 77 CONTENTS. Conjecture on Strabo - - - - - - -7t» Conjecture on Arrian ..-----78 Analogy of Amazons and Persians - - - - 78 Both encamped on the Areopagus - - - - - - 79 iEschylus -..----- 7!t Consecration of the Areopagus by the Temple of the Eumenides - 7'J Its site --------- 80 Described by .Eschylus .------81 ^schylus defends the Areopagus by this identification of it with the worship of the Eumenides. This identification prescribed by the locality of both - - - - - - 81 CHAP. XII. Athens. Consecrated Grottoes. Grottoes in the rock of the Acropolis, (irotto of Pan - - 82 Near the Clepsydra. Conjecture on Scholiast of Aristophanes - 83 Present state of Clepsydra. Walled in by Odysseus - - 84 Inscription. Death of Odysseus ..---- 86 Grotto of Aglauros. Site of Euripides' Ion - - - 87 Historical incidents connected with this Grotto - - - 88 Subterranean ascent from it into the Erectheum - - 89 CHAP. XIII. Athens. Theatre. Site and present state of Theatre - - - - - 90 Grotto. JMonument of Thrasyllus. Choragic Columns - - 91 Choragic Inscriptions - - - - - 92 Size of the Theatre ------- 93 Plato. Dicsearchus - - - - - - 94 Conjecture on Dicasarchus ------ 95 Position of, and view from, the Theatre - - - 95 Influence of these on the Athenian drama - - - - 95 On /Eschylus, Sophocles, Euripides - - - - 96 On Aristophanes - - - - - - -98 Peculiar local advantages of Athenian dramatists - - 99 Plato on the local influence of Athenian public buildings - 100 CHAP. XIV. Athens. Acropolis. Acropolis. Its character - - - - - - 102 Coniecturc on Dicwarchus . . - - - 10'2 CONTENTS. Size of Acropolis; position; ionn ; descriptions of Ascent from Theatre to Acropolis - - - " Temple of Venus and Peitho - - " " , , ' Local illustration of Euripides' Hippolytus. Theseus. Pha-dra. Hippolytus - - " " ' Conjecture on Pliny --"""" Death of TEgeus. Accuracy of Catullus - - Temple of Wingless Victory. Meaning of; site of Local illustration of Aristophanes ; Lysistrata - Statues of Harmodius and Aristogeiton - - - ■ Peculiar exception in favour of - - " ' Recent discovery of the Temple of Victory - - ■ Wi 104 lOf) 105 105 107 108 109 109 110 111 CHAP. XV. Athens. Acropolis. Propylcea. Parthenon. Propylata, procession through its central gate ; present state of - 112 Erection of Propylaea ------- '^ Ancient admiration of by Athenians and strangers - - 114 Supposed restoration and opening of the Propylsa - - 115 The Parthenon restored - - - - " - 11<> Eastern and Western pediments. Subjects of Groups there - - 117 Impression of ancient Shields suspended on Eastern facade: con- sequent illustration of Euripides. Erectheus and the Bacchs - 118 Name and divisions of the Parthenon - - - - 120 Application of a passage in Euripides' Ion . . - - 122 Conjecture on Plutarch - - - " - 121 View froiii the Parthenon - - - - 122 123 Dicffiarchus -------- CHAP. XVI. Athens. Acropolis. The three Minervas of the Acropolis - - - - - 124 Statue of Minerva Promachus ; bronze and colossal - - 125 Euripides Here. Fur. Alaric - - - - - - 125 Statue and Temple of Minerva Parthenos. Chryselephantine - 12B Statue and Temple of JMinerva Polias ; its antiquity; dressed in the Peplos ; Aristophanes. Orestes a suppliant here ; yEschylus' Eumenides - - - ■ " - -l Illustration of the three Minervas from Aristoplianes' Equites - 128 Scholiast on Aristides - - " - - - \m 130 13G Xiv CONTENTS. CHAP. XVll. Athens. Acropolis. Erectheum. Krectheuni, its two divisions .... 132 The Eastern, the Temple of Polias ; the Western, that of Pamlrosus. Cecropium in the Portico of Caryatides - - - 133 Architectural Inscription ----- 133 Present state - - - - - -- - ^^^ Four objects, (1) the "Ancient Statue" in the Temple of Polias. (2) The Salt-spring. (3) The Trident. (4) The Sacred Olive, in that of Pandrosus _..--- 134 Illustration of Euripides' Erectheus - - - - 13 Character, religious, moral and political of the Erectheum Uses., national and poetical of the Sacred Olive contained there Morian Olives -------- 1^7 Sophocles' CEdipus at Colonus - - - - 138 Inscriptions in the Acropolis - - - - - 140 1. Poetical honorary tribute - . - - - 1-10 2. Didascalic Inscription of Ctesippus, son of Chabrias ; conse- quent inference on the result of Demosthenes' Oration against Leptines - - - - - - - 142 3. Palimpsest Inscription, for a Statue of Praxiteles - - 142 Alienation of honorary Statues at Athens. Instances - 142 4. Tribute to an Athenian Canephoros - - - 143 5. Consecration of a Chapel. Imprecations on its violators - I4f> CHAP. XVIIl. Athens. Temple of Theseus. Theseum at Athens compared with St Mark's at V^enice - - 147 Hercules associated with Theseus - - - - 148 Temple of Theseus and Hercules Furens - - - - 14f) Political expression of this union - - - - 149 Description of the Theseum - - - - - ISO CHAP. XIX. Athens. Tower of the Winds. Choragic Monument of Lysicrates. Street of Tripods. Temple of Jupiter Olympius. Tower of Winds. Object, site, description of - - - lol Conjecture on Scholiast of Aristophanes - - - l.')2 Water clocks, iVc. - - - - - - - 154 CONTENTS. Monument of Lysicrutea. Street of Tripods ... lf,4 Object of Didascalite. Uidascalic Inscriptions - . . 155 Temple of Jupiter Olympins, when commenced and finislied ; style; description of - - . . . . l,-,(; CHAP. XX. Athens. Stadium. Site of Stadium ; form ; dimensions of Race, description of - Illustration of Plato . . . . Date of Stadium - - . . . The Stadium, the dramatic Time-piece at Athens ; why. tions of Euripides - . . . Ancient Inscription - . . . . Illustra. 157 158 158 159 160 161 CHAP. XXI. Athens. Illissus. Callirrhoe. Cephisus. Callirrhoe and Cratinus - - - . . 16] Site and appearance of Callirhoe - - - . - 162 Ilissus unsunf^ by Athenian poets. Why ? C^ephisus why pre- ferred ? ----.. 1(52 General remark on the topographical fastidiousness of Attic poets 162 Justice done to the Ilissus by strangers. Socrates at the Ilissus - 163 Fronto invites 3Iarcus Aurelius to this spot ... 1(54 Conjecture on Fronto's letter ...... 165 CHAP. XXII. Athens. Plan of the City. General Sketch of Athens - - - . . igy Acropolis. Areopagus. Pnyx. - - - . . I67 Buildings politically and locally connected with the Pnyx - 167 Agora. Senate-house. Metroum. Tholus. Altar of Twelve (Jods. Object of ----- . \m The Eponymi. Temple of Mars - - . . . 170 Statues of Harmodius and Aristogeiton ... 170 Two parallel Stoa; — Basileios and Eleutherios ... 170 Illustration of Aristophanes .... 170 Pompeium. Dipylum near the Pompeium .... 171 Pausanias begins his description of Athens from Dipylum - I7I Anciently, one Cerameicus only .... 173. XVI CONTENTS. PAOK Subsequently the old Agora merged in the new and inner Cera- meicus ----.... I74 Limits of old Agora .... - I75 Demosthenes illustrated ...... I77 Inner Colonus. ]\Ielite. Ca>le - . . - 177 CoUytus. Diomeia ....... I78 Lyceum. Milton ...... I79 Poecile in the Old Agora - - ... I79 Demades and plan of Athens . . . . 181 CHAP. XXIII. Route of Panathenaic procession traced ... 183 Peplos ; sail : car - - - - - - . 184 Strattis, conjecture on - - - - . 185 Santa Rosalia and Minerva - - .... 185 Hippias and Hipparchus ..... 186 Course of procession ........ 187 Euripides illustrated ..... 187 End of procession; car, peplos . . . . . 188 Site of Pythium - - - - - - 188 CHAP. XXIV. The Long Walls of Athens. Three Long Walls; at end of Peloponnesian War - - 190 Two to Peira;us ; one to Phalerum ... I9I Their various names, and reasons for .... I91 Cratinus and Pericles - - - - - 193 Route along the Walls - - - - - - 194 Inscription concerning them - - - - - 194 CHAP. XXV. Grotto of the Nymphs at Mount Hymetlus. Urotto; at Bari . - - - - .195 Deities, to whom dedicated ...... 195 Inscriptions there in the rock .... I95 Longus, conjecture on - - - ... 196 Local suggestions ...... 196 Crinagoras ........ 197 Language of the Inscriptions .... 198 rONTKNTS. The Inscriptions are inetricul ----- 1}(;) Krsus ------- 201 In! Psyttaleia corrupted into Lipsokontali ; meaning of these names . 263 Xerxes on his silver.footed throne on Mount ^galeos . . 263 Scholiast to Aristides emended - .... 263 Solitary state of the Bay of Salamis - - . .264 CHAP. XXXVI. jEgina. Form of ,Egina ---.... 265 Its three most remarkable objects ; City, Temple, Oros - . 265 History of iflgina, arising from its position and soil . . 265 CONTKNTS. AiK-ieiit Port .... - - 'ififi Temple near city ...---. '2t)7 Date of - - - - - - - 2«7 Other Temple at iiorth-t;ist of the island . . - _ 268 Site, description _ - - . - - 269 Not the Fanhellenium - - - - - - 2H9 But dedicated to 3Iinervii ... - - 270 The Panhellenium ------- 271 Its site was on Oros, at southern angle of .^^gina - - 271 Proofs of this - - - - - - 272 Temples and Churches .-..-- 273 yEacus and Eli as ------ 273 Temple of Aphjea ------- 274 Ancient Inscription there ----- 275 Temples of Apollo and Neptune ----- 276 Military feud at Mama . - - - - 277 APPENDIX. Letter from .Mr Braceliridgc ------ 2/9 Second letter ..---- 289 J CHAPTER 1. NEGROPONT TO OROPO. A Chalcide Aulidem trajicit, intle Oropum Attica; ventum est ; ubi pro Deo vates antiquus colitur ; Athenas inde plenas quidem et ipsas vetustate famaj, multa tamen visenda habentes, Arcem, Portus, Mures Peiraeeum urbi jungentes, navalia magnorum Imperatorum, Simulacra Deoruni hominumque. T. Liv. XLV. 26. From Chalcis he passes over to Aulis: thence to Oropus in Attica, where an ancient Seer (Amphiaraus) is adored as a God: thence to Athens, full of her old renowti, yet having many objects deserving a visit, her Citadel, her Ports, and Walls which link the Peirceus to the City; Docks erected by great Commanders ; the Statues of God and Men. Oct. 9, 1832. Hesiod might have spared the only voyage which he informs^ us he ever made, if this bridge which we cross this morning from Chalcis to the Boeotian shore had existed in his time. His love of glory over- came his antipathy to the sea, and tempted him across the Em-ipus. He returned from Chalcis to Ascra loaded with the poetic prize, which he dedi- > Works and Days, v. 649. A 2 EURIPUS. [chap. I. cated to the Muses of his native Heheon ; and he afterwards wrote to his brother Perses of the dangers of the sea, which the Poet it seems knew too well ever to encounter. We are now making on horseback the same passage which he made by water. The narrow bridge which we are crossing has influenced the fortunes, altered the 'name, and changed the character of Euboea. It was the policy of^Boeotia, contrived with more than Boeotian shrewdness, to make " Euboea an island to every one else but themselves." By its means the Boeotians blockaded against their southern enemies the * EujOiTTos is in the mouth of a modern Greek pronounced 'EvrTpos ; from Evripos comes 'Egripos ; from EgTipos, 'N'Egripon, (in the accusa- tive case, as from 'AfSapTvo? comes Navarino, the o-to or eis to being suppressed), and from Negripon, by aid of its bridge, we arrive at the modern name of Euboea, 'Segro-ponte. This prefix of the article with the preposition {i. e. es to, &c.) deserves notice, as the cause of topographical difficuhies. In the Greek Synecdemus of Hierocles (p. 646) we have a list of yEgean islands. There the mention of Eubosa is soon followed by that of other islands, A77X0S, SKTP02, TAAAMENH. On which AVesseling observes, " TaXa/xeV ij ex SaA.a,uTs vT](to^ orta videtur." Such is his con- jecture. But the corrupt word is probably nothing else than 2TA AIMENI, (i. e. es to XifxevLu, The harbours), or Stalhnini, which is the modern name of Lemnos. Then the combination of the islands in Hiero- cles becomes a very appropriate one : it is precisely the same, and in the same order, as that in Euripides (Troad. 89) : Atj'Xioi T6 )^oi/oa'ocs ^Kvpo^ Te Aijfivoi Te The Delian cliffs, Scyros and Lemnos. * The bridge over the Euripus was built by the Boeotians B. C. 410. (Diod. Sic. XIII. 47.) If Plutarch be right in doubting the genuineness of the passage ascribed to Hesiod above, that passage is at least older than this date. Ill A I'. I. I A I' LIS. 3 Athenians these ancient Dardanelles of Greece. They locked the door of Athenian commerce, and kept themselves the key. This was the channel, hy which the gold of Thasos, the horses of Thessaly, the timber of Macedonia, the corn of Thrace were carried into the Peirreus. Nor must we forget the vast importance of Euboea itself, which from its position, and its produce, its quarries, its timber and its corn, was of inestimable value to Athens. Of the better part of this island her tenure was from that time precarious ; and her com- munication with the northern markets was either de- pendent on the fear or amity of Boeotia, or it was exposed to the dangers of the open sea — the perils of the treacherous Coela, and the "vengeful "Caphareus," which on a former occasion had rendered such sio-nal service to Athens by the havoc they had made in the invading armada of Persia. After passing the bridge of the Euripus we turn to the left. The road skirts the shore : the tracks of ancient wheels are visible in the rocky ledge which just rises above the sea. In a mile from the brido-e we arrive at a flowing fountain. There are now some Greek peasants there, halting to give drink to their horses. They enquire of us, when the long-expected arrival of the new King of Greece will take place. They congratulate themselves on their recent liberation, on their being, as they style themselves, independent Hellenes, and no longer the slaves of Turkey. * Now corrupted to Cavo d'oro, (the golden cape). A 2 4 ANCIEXT [chap. I. It was at a fountain near this spot — perhaps at this source — KoXri^ VTTO TrXaTuviaTio oOev peev uyXaov vdwp, Beneath the platane fair, whence gushed the shining stream. that Homer imagined a session of councillors and war- riors assembled round the King of Greece, who then found as much difficulty in leaving his dominions as his modem successor does now in entering them. We enquire of these peasants the name of the site in which we are : it is called Vlike. This is pro- bably a modification of AuXt/o;, which has the sound of Avlike to a modern Greek, and still preserves the recollection of the district of Aulis, when the name of Aulis itself has perished. We ascend a high rugged hill which is on the right of our road, and on the western verge of a peninsula formed by two bays. At its summit there is a ruined hellenic city, probably of the heroic age. Its huge polygonal walls remain in their complete circuit. The interior of the city is strewed with broken pottery, and overgrown with wild plants. It is in an ancient city like this, that the traveller feels, I might almost say, an emotion of gratitude that the physical structure and inorganic elements of this country are such as they happen to be. Nature did well in form- ' ut' l-i A.u\ioa i/z/es 'Ax""^" ^'ly^p^^oVTo, &C. Iliad II. 303. CHAl'. I.] CITY. 5 ing Greece of hard imperishable limestone. For from this formation it results that the monuments here of the most remote times, constructed with the native stone, with all the severity of age combine the fresh- ness of recent structure; thus appearing to appro- priate the beholder to themselves, and not to be influenced by him. They exist not, it seems, in his asre; but he lives in theirs. Their share in to-day seems greater than his own. This is illustrated by the character of the place which we are now in. We enter the gate of this ancient town. The towers which flanked the old gateway still stand, on your right and left. The groove of the gate, the socket which received its bar, seem to have been recently chiselled. Within the city at the N.W. a large square cistern is hewn in the living calcareous rock: its clean sharp sides seem to have been lately carved to receive a shower, which is expected soon to fall. You advance to the eastern wall : a flight of stone steps invites you to mount from the area of the city to a tower projecting from the wall, in order, you might almost fancy, that from its lofty eminence you might look down on the valley, the shore, and the Euripus now lying below you, and might thus assure yourself whether or no the Grecian fleet of Agamemnon was still lingering in the port of AuHs. To return from what might be, to what is. The hill on which we stand is called Mey dXo Bovv6 6 AULI9. [chap. I. cTTo /ixiKpo (3a9v {The Great Mountain, at the Small Deep.) The name of our mountain is derived from its proximity to a small harbour, called fxiKpo (iaQu in contradistinction to the port of larger dimension which begins at the south of the narrowest point of the Euripus, and spreads itself like an unfolded wing Q KoXirdvyi '^repvy Ey/3oia9) from the side of Euboea. This larger port is called ju.cydXo j^aOu. These its two titles are of great antiquity ; for there can I think be no doubt that it is identical with the harbour, which is described by Strabo- under the same name, and in which he supposes the Greek fleet to have been moored. If so, the harbour to the south of it, now known by the name fxucpo f^aOu must have been the port which he describes as affording a road- stead for only fifty ships, and as more nearly con- nected with Aulis itself. Hence a presumption arises that a city which is now referred in the language of the country to that ' Eurip. Iphig. Aul. 120 : Al'Xll' UKXlXTTaU Tail KoXirooSt] ■TTTepvy' Ev/Soias. ■ where jiulis spreads her ivaveless bay. The unruffled pinion of the Euboic shore. ' Strabo, p. 403. C. In his route from Oropus to Chalcis : After Delium, he says, is the great harbour which they call the Deep harbour. Kiixr\v fxeyas, ov KoXovai ^adi/v Xifxcva. eW i] AiiXii, ireTpwoe^ ywpiov, Xi/»)|u o' e. 2(il) supposes thi* peninsula to be the site of Aulis. CHAP. I.] DELIUAl. 9 There is indeed a tumulus on its shore, which might be considered an interesting rehc of DeHunr, and of its field of battle ; if there were better evidence than there is of its coincidence with that city. But to the site which Delium occupied another village has succeeded, similar to Delium in name. There can be no doubt that Ai^Xicri now covers the spot, which has been rendered famous by the intrepidity of Socrates, and the misfortunes of his country. Delisi is about seven miles from Oropd, the site of the ancient Oropus. It stands a little to the right of the road on a rising ground, which shelves down into the plain. The road soon divides into two branches ; the path on the right hand, which we now pursue, leading over the shrubby hills to Oropus, that on the left skirting the sea- shore, and crossing the river Asopus at its entrance to the sea. The site of DeHsi has many advantages. It stands on the southern verge of the flat strip of land which fringes the sea from the Euripus, and now converges to a narrow margin running on southward from Delisi alonff the shore. It therefore commanded this avenue from Attica unto Boeotia along the coast. This was - Delium could not have stood at Dramisd : for Delium was only five miles from Tanagra (Liv. xxxv. 51), and ten stadia from Delium placed the Athenians just on the Oropian frontier, ( /xaXiaTa Ji/ toIs nedopioii Tt7s 'ilptoirias. Thuc. IV. 91.) Hence in Strabo's assertion, Aij'Xtov Ai!)\i(5os diexov (TTaoiovi t p iukovtu^ Delium distant from Aulis thirty stadia, for the number \' (i.e. /i') 30, should probably be substituted p' or 100. 10 BATTLE OF [cHAl>. 1. probably the reason why it was' seized and fortified by the Athenians as a post from which they might sally against their northern neighbours, and protect themselves from their aggression. In this sense Delium was a Boeotian Deceleia. Its maritime position was also favourable. It is not close to the sea, but it no doubt possessed build- ings on the shore. The sea makes here a reach in a south-easterly direction, so that a bay exists in the curve thus formed. By the possession of this bay Delium was made the emporium of the important city of Tanag-ra, which was five miles in the interior. The village of Delisi is now in ruins. Our road bears to the right. We begin to as- cend over wild and uncultivated hills, overgro^^^l with low shrubs, and broken into deep furrows by the tor- rents which plough their way from the higher moun- tains on our right in their course into the sea. It was an evening in this season, at the beginning of winter, -when the battle of Delium was fought. It took place at ^ about a mile to the south of the village from which it was named. One of these sloping hills ^ covered the Boeotian forces from the sight of their Athenian antagonists. These abrupt ' Thuc. IV. 1(2. Tijy BoKn-r'iav (ol Adriiialoi) tft tTj's ofiopov eXOovTfS, Teiyo^ (ev At]\iu)) evoLKooofji.ij(Td/xevoi, /uc'XXoucri tpdeipeiu. T/ie Athe- nians, having marched from the border-land, and erected for themselves a fortress at Delium, intend to ravage Bceotia. 2 B.C. 424. '■' oeVa <7T-a3ioi/9. Thuc. iv. 1)0. •• \o(/>os. Time. IV. !H>. CHAP, I.] DELIUM. 11 ^gullies channelled in the soil by the autumnal rain impeded the conflict of the two armies. They affbrded less embarrassment to the manceuvres of the lighter troops ; it was to their superiority in this species of force that the Boeotians were mainly indebted for their victory. Their success was complete. The darkness of the night, and his own good genius, preserved the Athenian Philosopher, He seems to have escaped in the first instance by following the bed of one of these ''deep ravines into which the soil has been ploughed by the mountain streams : He returned home together with "his pupil and his friend by a particular road, which his guardian spirit prompted him to take, and which in vain he recommended to his other comrades, whom the enemy convinced too late of their unhappy error. We cross the deep bed of the river Asopus at the village of Sycamind, and then, in thirty minutes, arrive among the low cottages of Oropd, ^ puaue^. Thuc, IV. 06. '' Plutarch de Socrat. Dspmon, 681. 32. nvpiXufjL'mis 6 Autk^uivtoi dXoh'i ev TTJ 6iw^fi TTepl AijXiov, &5s i'\KOvn Tuiv eirl xo's (nrovod-i 'oai/i OearirKtl fxovii (Tii|'e(7TijKe Toil/ Boiootikwv voXeiov Kai Tavdypa. CHAP. U.] TANAGRA. 17 Theatre. It is scooped out in the slope on which the walls are built : it looks outwards on the plain below it. There is another site similar in shape to this, in the interior of the city, a little to the south of the present spot. In one of these tw^o positions stood the Theatre at Tanagra, which Pausanias visited, and in which perhaps the minstrel of Tanagra, whose beauty^, as he informs us, to judge by her statue, was equal to her poetical accomplishments, sung her strains which were so agreeable l-^ai'aypioecrcn \euK07re7rX019' lueya o e/nr] yeyaOe 776X19 \iyovpoK(0Tc\i^9 eUOTTtj^' To vvhite-stol'd Tanagraean maids; For deeply do they love the clear And plaintive roundelay to hear. CoRiNNA* (in Hephsestion. p. 106. Gaisf.) The former of these two localities commands an exten- sive view. Looking eastward, the plain of the Asopus stretches beneath us, from east to west. To the south of it is a range of mountains : of which Mount ^ Pausan. ix. 22. 3. Kopiuva yvuaiKwi^ ToVe oij KaWia-Ti] to elSo's, e'L Tt 5>j eiKovL Sei TeK/nalpecrdai )'/ /xovij Si} eu Tavdypa aa/xaTa e7rott);s Mtj\ou eirXevcrav eis 'Qpunrdf t7)9 -jrcpav yv^, evGus Oe in the text of Dic£earchus is an error of his transcribers: it is not Greek. And besides, what topographer would have ever described a route of about thirty miles, which is the distance of Athens to Oropus, by telhng his readers that it passed through '^ bay-trees and a temple ?" To give his description any value some kno\ATi place or town would have been specified in it. The passage is therefore corrupt. And how is this corruption to be removed? Simply by changing the unintelligible ex- pression AIA AANIAQN, by an easy transposition, into Al' AOIANQN. The Attic borough APHJDN^ may be inferred from a passage in Herodotus^ to have been near Deceleia. Now Deceleia was in the direct road from Athens to Oropus ^ that is, on the precise road which Dicsearchus is here describing. Again, the verbal confusion of A^tlANQN with AAa>NIAQN, which I here suspect to have occurred in the text of Diceearchus, is both easy for transcribers to make, and was in fact frequently made^ The inference therefore before suggested by Herodotus becomes almost a cer- 1 Kruse also (Hellas, it. p. 283) speaks of this country as being "einer Gegend, wo der weisse lehmichte Boden, den schon nircBnrrh. bemerkte, Lorbeerbdume auf der Ilohen erniihrte." ^ Herodot. IX. 73- \iyov(n, tou? AckcXc'k? Kari)yi']cra(sdai tTri Tc'fi 'A<^toi/«s. •' Thuc. VII. "2t). eK Tvv 'ilfjioTTOv Kara yijv otd tijv ^e/ceXcutv. ■• In the passage of Herodotus, for A'M^NAi: the Sancroft ^AIS. has exactly the same error, A<1>NIAA2. This word has been singularly fruit- ful in this confusion. In Demosth. 23}i. 17- for 'A t^i^vau^ Bekker's MSS. S.Q.O. CHAP. IV.] APHIDN.E FOUND. 29 tainty. Deceleia was 120 stadia from Athens\ Hence as.umino-,_what from Herodotus compared with Di- c^archus we may now safely do,-that Aphidn^ was near to Deceleia, whose direction and distance from Athens are known, we are now enabled to assign the site of the important fortress Aphidn^e ; which was the asyhim of Helen, the borough of the poet" Tyrtseus, and of the two illustrious friends, ^Harmodius and Aristogeiton. Other topographical consequences may be deduced from this result. The two Attic vil- lao-es of ^Perrhidai and ^Titacid^e were connected by relationship and vicinity with the town of Aphidn^. The determination of their positions hangs as a corol- lary on that, which is now ascertained, of Aphidnse their more important and illustrious neighbour. We do not now proceed further in the direct road to Athens, but wishing to take Rhamnus and Marathon in our way, we diverge from Kalamo m S Q () u have 'Ai>vi6a, and F.Y. p. v. give"A<^..5a : again in Plutarch Thes. c. 32. and in Harpocrat. v. Ovpyu^viScu, A^u.calo, was written for 'A. v.] I.AKGER TEMPLE OF NEMESIS. 37 H'H^ICMA THC BOYAHC KAI TOY AHMOY THN PAMNOYCII2N HPjQAHC BIBOYA AION nOAYAEYKIIlNA inHEA ANEGHKEN EK THN (AinN O GPEvl/AC KAI 1 A HCAC nCYION TH NEME CEIH MET AYTOY EOYEN EYME NH KAI AIMNHCTON TON EAYTOY TPOIMON That is, adopting the proposed additions, \l/rjei5tas dyaX/taxoJcras Ka'Wto-ra ^ei5iaKrj Ttj Texv\l TO ev FafxvouvTi dyaXfia Ne/ieVcwB Aio's re eKelvo dvaTiQriarLV eiTLypacpiiv xapd^a^ 'AyopccK p iTov dyaXfiu tovto iiTTiv Jlapiou. '•* Ivruse Hellas, Attica, cap. vi. p. 278. Compare Unedited Antiqui- ties of Attica, published by the Society of Dilettanti, p. 42. ' That on the left is inscribed thus, 0EM I Al xnzTPATOx: ANE0HKEN. 40 TWO TEMPLES OF NEMESIS. [cHAP. V. N EMEZEI ZnZTPATOZ AN EGH KEN 7b Nemesis Soslrufus dedicates this. But it surely will not be contended that these chairs were dedicated in this temple after its destruc- tion. And what example can be found of a Greek inscription written in such characters as these, and belonging to an era antecedent to the battle of Mara- thon I Its long voweh preclude that : this inscription is evidently later than even the age of Pericles. The destruction therefore of the earlier temple could not have taken place at the time supposed. Both these temples were dedicated to Nemesis, This is proved by the two inscriptions above cited. It must, I think, be granted that the former temple was in ruins before the latter was erected, on the grounds before stated. An Athenian temple would not have been demolished by Athenians. At what period, then, did foreigners possess the inclination and the power to destroy a temple in Attica? The range of time in which this period is to be sought is defined by two limits. The earlier limit is furnished by the probable date of the inscription on these chairs : the later by that to which, from its style, the second temple may be assigned. In looking between these two limits for an occasion in which such an event as the destruc- tion of the earlier temple miglit have taken place, CHAP, v.] SCENEHY Ol' HUAM.NUS. 41 we are naturally attracted to the close of the Pelo- ponnesian war. It seems not improbable that the victorious anta- gonists of Athens wreaked their vengeance at that time on the public buildings of their vanquished rival. The long walls of Athens were not the sole sufferers. But the sacred buildings, it may be objected, would have been protected from their outrages by the respect for national religion which a Greek victor would feel. This is admitted. But a Greek victor was then leagued with a Persian ally^ The Temple of Nemesis at Rhamnus was a signal monument of Persian igno- miny. It was a memorial of Athenian glory won from Persia on the field of Marathon. It would be re- garded by the Persian with the same exasperation with which a French soldier would behold the Belgian Lion on the field of Waterloo. The feeling of indig- nation would not be idle, when an occasion was given, such as we have supposed, for its exercise. Nemesis, I am inclined to think, suffered then from the exer- cise, in the hands of others, of her own functions. Such is our conjecture. We leave the temples, and walk eastward down a narrow glen to the rocky peninsula on which the town of Rhamnus stood. Its remains are consider- able. We enter the western gate, flanked by towers, and follow the line of the southern wall toward the ' Uemosthen. VJ], '21, fi'-pi/'treTe tup PaaiXin ti'iu ttoXiu Sid AuKioat- Hoi'iwv dadcuij Toii'i(raVTa. 42 SCENERY OF RHAMNUS. [cHAP. V. sea. This wall is well preserved ; it is about twenty feet in height : the part of the town which borders on the sea is rendered very strong by its position on the edge of high perpendicular rocks. Though not large, it was thus well adapted to answer the purposes for which it was used, as one of the main maritime keys of Attica. The beauty of its site and natural features, en- hanced as it is by the interest attached to the spot, is the most striking characteristic of Rhamnus. Standing on this peninsular knoll, the site of the ancient city, among walls and towers grey with age, with the sea behind you, and Attica before, you look up a woody glen towards its termination in an elevated platform, where, as on a natural base- ment, the Temples stood, of which even the ruined walls, of white shining marble, now show so fairly to the eye through the veil of green shade that screens them. If Nicolas Poussin had ever left Italy to travel in Greece, and given himself to the delineation of Greek landscape, he would have chosen Rhamnus as one of the first scenes to exercise his pencil. He would then perhaps have introduced into this his landscape a person who was connected with this place, who derived his name from it, and was alike remarkable for his genius, his actions, and his misfortunes. Aiitipho the Khamnusian would have been in his place here. And if the painter mi^ht have boon allowed CHAP, v.] NAME OF RHAMXUS. 43 further licence, he would perhaps have imagined as appearing at the verge of this glen and descending from it, the scholar of Antipho, the historian of the Peloponnesian war. But he must have left it to the spectators of his landscape, to imagine that Thucydides was then arriving from Athens, having crossed, as he would have done, the field of Marathon, to come and listen here, in such a scene as this, to the words of such a master. We return toward the temple by the ridge above mentioned ; it was fortified by walls parallel to itself both on the north and south. Their bearings it is not easy to explore, the whole surface being overgrown with a very thick prickly shrub, which prevents our progress. It at the same time suggests the reason for the ancient name by which the city was called. On this hill the propriety of the name of Pajuvous is felt' €v ycip opei pa/jLvo'i tg kui acnraXaOoi ko/howpti. For the sharp rhamnus mantles o'er the hills. ' From pa/jLvoei^, — oDs. Compare the remark of Schol. Aristoph. Plut. 586. on the similar botanical names of the Attic Demi MvppLvovs, 'Ayvovi, &c. to which may be added ^iiyoiJ%-, 'Axp^Sous, 'Avayvpov^, and 'EXaiovi. The modern name of Rhamnus is '0/3^io-Kacn-,oo, for 'E/Sjoalo-Kao-xpo, Jews-Castle. (See Koray. Atakta, i. p. 55. Xeyovv 'OjSptos avTi Tou 'EPpaloi, as oxSpoi, for ex^P^^i ^^'^ ^^^ ^^^)- The term 'EfSpato seems to be applied to persons or things in a wandering or desola'.e state. '0/3/oto yj/o-i is a desert island east of Corinth : so u^pid TTOTcifxi. In the same way the term rv(f>To-Kd(TTpo (or, Gypsy-Castle) is now applied in Greece to a ruined and iminhabited fortress. CHAPTER VI. MARATHON, llafTC?, ^liXTtact], Tci a uprjia epja "aucnv W^paai' Kut Mapadu}v err/? apeT»/? Te/xevo^. Inscript. ap. Grut. p. 438. Miltiades! from thy sword the East did JJee ; And Marathon a Temple is to Thee. Oct. 12. After an hour and a half from Rhamnus we reach the plain of Marathon. It is a still afternoon, and the sky is gloomy. The place looks very dreary. The plain extends in length six miles along the shore, and rather more than two inland. It looks brown and dry : it has no hedges, and few prominent objects of any kind : here and there is a stunted wild pear- tree, and there are some low pines by the sea-shore ; and occasionally there is a small solitary chapel in ruins rising out of the plain. There is no house visible except on the inland skirts of the plain ; and a few peasants ploughing on it at a distance \\\{\\ their slow teams of small oxen are the only liviiia' (Tfaturcs to be seen. CHAP. VI.] MARSHES. 45 In this level solitary place the eye is naturally arrested by one object, which raises itself above the surface of the plain more conspicuously than any thing else. That object is the Tumulus which covers the ashes of those Athenians who fell in the battle of Marathon. It produces a sensation of awe to find oneself alone with such an object as this. It was a wise design which buried these Athenians together under such a tomb in the place on which they fell. The plain is hemmed in near the sea by a marsh' on each side. It was fortunate for Athens that the battle was not fought in the summer, but in the autumn ; particularly if that autumn was a rainy one. Pressed in on both sides by these morasses, which then would have been inundated, the Per- sian force had not free scope to bring its vast numbers to bear. Here they were embarrassed by their own power : hence it was, that at these morasses the greatest slaughter of the Persians took place ^. Hence too these marshes themselves were honoured ' Callimach. ap. Suid. v. Mapadoiu. Callimachus called it two-riou Mapadwva . . . ToVTearTi Sivypov\ . . Schol. Plat. p. 140. MapaOciv . . Tpax"^ 5uo-i'7nra(TT0S, ex^f i" eavTw Tri]\ov9, Tei/dyJitXlpva?. (Some of these scholia evince a personal acquaintance with Attic topography : see p. 105. on Sid /uecrou relxos.) Herod, vi. 102. seems to speak in rather too unqualified terms, when he calls ftlarathon eiriTvSewTaTov Xiopiov tT,'s ATxtK'.]? evi-wwedaai. It is singular that he does not men- tion the marshes of fliarathon. 2 Pausan. i. 32. 7. Xinvij eXoS6i}9 . . . toIs ^appdpoi^ t6i> 6vov tov TTdXvv iirl Toi/Tai crvpfit^vai Xeyovari. 46 BATTLE OF AlARATHOX. [cHAP, VI. with a place in the Athenian pictures of the battle of Marathon: while the figures of Minerva and Hercules were exhibited in the frescoes on the walls of the Poecile at Athens in the front of the fight', the water of these marshes was seen gleaming in the back- ground of the picture. The time of the day, as well as of the year in which the battle was fought, deserves notice. It is mentioned incidentally — and the expression seems to be one of traditional gratitude, that the crisis of the victory was in the evening, a\\ 6(Uttis a(f) airewadfieaOa, ^vv 6eo7^, Trpo'i eairepu-. Heav'n be thanked! ice routed them, when first the day began to wane. That evening was introduced into the scenerj' of the Athenian recollections of Marathon, just as the Aurora and Hesperus sculptured on the column of Trajan in his Forum at Rome enter into the repre- sentations of his victories, being the symbols of times of day in which those victories were achieved. The hour of the day, combined with the local bearings of the plain of Marathon, may have conduced much to the success of the Athenians. The sun would then have streamed in full dazzling radiance, so remarkable in the sunsets of Greece, on the faces of their adver- saries, and against it the conical tiara of the Persians would have offered little protection. ' Pausan. i. iTi. » Aristopli. Vesp. 1080. CHAP. VI.] MARATHONIAN TETRAPOLIS. 47 The ancient topography of the plain has been very clearly illustrated. The northern marsh^ (Apa- Kovepd) is fed mainly by a source anciently called Macaria, from the daughter of ' Hercules, who devoted herself to death in behalf of the Heracleidae, before the victory which they gained over the Argive Eury- stheus on this plain. Near this fountain was the ^marshy village of Tricorythus, one of the members of the Marathonian tetrapolis. It seems to have stood on the forked hills above the hamlet of Kato-Suli. It was probably so called from the triple peak" on which its citadel was built. Skirting westward the inland margin of the plain from its N.W. angle, under the mountain of Stauro- koraki, we come to a stream which flows from a valley on our right : on its right bank are two Albanian villages ; on its left, rather higher up, is the modern hamlet of Marathdna. This is probably the site of the ancient village of Marathon. The coincidence of the name is a strong argument. There is also a hill ^ From its size and copiousness considered as a prodigy by the neighbouring inhabitants, and therefore called ApaKovepd. ApaKo is in Romaic a common expression for any marvellous object. ■* Strabo viii. p. 377. Hercules was the hero of Marathon. The fountain was thus the daughter of the plain : and the mythological story of Macaria probably means nothing more than that this flowing stream rendered a similar service in battle to the Heracleida>, which the marshes did subsequently to the Athenians in the engagement with the Persians. ^ Hence Aristoph. Lys. 1032. e/xTrts TpiKopva-ia. 6 The term KopvOos (from Kopv^ a crest) is preserved in the Latin Corythus, (the old name of Cortona) : it is merely another form of Kopiv- Oos, which city Cortona resembles in its lofty peaked acropolis. 48 MARATHONIAN TETRAPOLIS. [cHAP. VI. above it, part of Staurokoraki, which on the spot I hear called A^'Xt ; and which suggests a question whether it does not preserve a record of the ^Temple at Marathon, called Aj^'Xtoi/, at which sacrifices w'ere offered, before sacred processions embarked for the island of Delos. Further up the same valley is (Enoe, still known by its ancient name. Returning down the valley, and following the roots of the hills, Kotrdni and ~Argaliki, the former of which is the southern boundary of the valley of Ma- rathdna, the latter of the plain of Marathon, we end our circuit at the south-east angle of the plain. This marsh is now called fidkro^'^ and l^pe^'ccri ; terms both indicative of the humidity of the soil. A herdsman here informs us, that the water of the marsh is salt at its eastern extremity, and that salt- water fish come up the stream there in the winter : the upper bank of it affords pasturage for his own cattle. ^Pausanias heard nearly the same account of it when he was here. Probahnthus, the fourth village of the Maratho- nian tetrapolis, was in this immediate neighbourhood. ' Schol. Soph. (Ed. Col. 1047. Elmsl. ^ Which is the mountain of YlapaiXftu^-: iipo^ iv toi '\\npaBw]n? (Hesych.) ' FTom aXs, as /3e'.\»/ from t'\»), &c. fipe^iai is from fip£X<"- * Pausan. I. 32. pel iroTaixd^ ck t»Js Xi/ui'tjs, -rd ftkv irpov ai»T?T ti; Xi/ivri vowp ftocTKij fia. cd. Jacobs." Sec Athena;um, No. ex. p. KK ^ Pausan. i. 32, 2. 'Ayx'^'^M''* "P°^ "^ '*'^V« '^'«' Aios dyaXnu A yx^rr niov. 60 SOIL OF LYCABETTUS. [ciIAP. VIII. that the same mountain is not the Lycabettus of earlier writers. These two names never both occur in the same author. The name of Anchesmus is found in no writer before Pausanias. The discovery there- fore of the inscription above-mentioned can only prove, what would a priori be not unlikely, that Anchesmus was a more recent name for Lycabettus. Socrates, in his conversation on domestic economy with Ischomachus, which was carried on in the por- tico of Zeus Eleutherius, in the Agora, at Athens', selects Lycabettus as a specimen of thin and arid soil ; and in another dialogue, conducted beneath the same portico", he compares the possession of super- fluous wealth with that of a freehold on the slopes of this mountain. We may imagine him pointing to its bare sides of thinly covered grey lime-stone, in confirmation of his argument, from the place in which he is represented as conversing, whence it was dis- tinctly visible. This mountain was probably a sheep- walk. A rude inscription, graven on one of its rocks beneath a small cave in them, and immediately fticing Athens, seems to indicate this. The word OPOC (or land-mark) written vertically, is there inscribed'^ And I find the same word written, in the same direction and characters, on the face looking towards Lycabettus, of the small rock now called (yyj.(jTr] irerpa (cleft-rock) which lies between Lycabettus and ' Xenoph. Oicon. xix. (i. - Pseudo-Plat. Eryx. 21. •" On this custom of affixing <'>ii(>i f.ce nocik. Mus. C'ril. u, (!2,i. CHAl'. VIII.] SOIL OF LYCABETTrs. (Jl Athens. A line drawn between these two inscriptions no doubt determined the range of pasture allowed to the flocks of some Athenian proprietor, whose oc- cupation of land on the barren slope of this mountain was little envied by the Athenian philosopher. CHAPTER IX. ATHENS. Tellus habet in se corpora prima. LucnET. II. 590. Here Earth supplies the jirinml elements. Of the earliest public buildings at Athens, the simplicity is very remarkable. Whatever their object, religious, political, judicial or social, their character in this respect was the same. In these buildings this character particularly expressed itself by two proper- ties, the one resulting from the nature of the Athe- nian climate, the other from that of the soil. The beauty and softness of the former, brightened by the colour of the atmosphere, and refreshed by the breezes of the neighbouring sea, naturally allured the inhabit- ants of Athens to pass much of their time in the open air. Not poetically alone, but literally, were Athenians described as ^ ae\ ^tct Xa/JiirpoTaTov (ia'ivovre'i af^pm a'Sepo'i For ever delicately marching Through pellucid air. ' Eurip. Med. 829, CHAP. IX. J ARCHITECTURAL RESULTS. 63 Even in the open air, to cover the liead, was left to invalids and travellers^. Hence also we may in part account for the practical defects of their domestic architecture, the badness of their streets, and the proverbial meanness of the houses of the noblest indi- viduals among them. Hence certainly it was that in the best days of Athens, the Athenians worshipped, legislated, and saw dramatic representations, under the open sky. Again, these buildings, if buildings they can be called, possessed a property produced immediately by the Athenian soil. Athens stands on a bed of hard limestone rock, in most places thinly covered by a meagre surface of soil. From this surface the rock itself frequently projects, and almost always is visible, protruded like the bones under the integuments of an emaciated body, to which Plato has compared it^. Athenian ingenuity suggested, and Athenian dexterity has realized, the adaptation of such a soil to archi- tectural purposes. Of this there remains the fullest evidence. In the rocky soil itself walls have been hewn, pavements levelled, steps and seats chiselled, ^cisterns excavated, and niches scooped; almost every 2 Lucian de Gymnas. p. 895. t6v irtKov dcpeXetv eSo^ev, oJs yuj; fxouos Qv v/xlu ^evf^oL/xi. TO) aKi'ifxciTi. I thought right to jnit off my cap, that I might not be the only foreigner in my garb among you. Cp. Valck. Theocr. Adoniaz. p. 344 = 181. ed. Heindorf. Critia. in. B. oIov vo AlZ AH MOZ OAIZ Sacred to the popular Nymphs. - Demosth. c. Ncacr. 137o. lt>. ^ Arist. Ecj. 1105. CHAP. X.] ATHENIAN ASSEMBLIES. 71 to face with less alarm the winds and storms of the Athenian Assembly'. We pass for a moment to a subject of a more technical character, in which a consideration of the objects before us may afford some interest. The scenes which are described as taking place on this spot gain much in distinctness from local illustration. Placed where we are now, we may imagine Dicseopolis in the Aristophanic play of the Acharnians arriving here early in the morning, taking his seat on one of these ^lime- stone steps, and speculating on the Agora beneath him, where the logistse are chasing the stragglers with their vermilion-coloured rope. The Prytanes appear from the Agora ; they ascend the slope of the Pnyx ; a contest takes place for the first seats, covered with planks and perhaps with cushions at the base of the stone rostrum, around which are ranged the bowmen of the Scythian police. The citizens, equipped with staff and cloak, are seated on this ^elevated area ■* See the comparison feelingly expressed by Demosthen. tt.tt. 383. 7- Quintil. X. 3. 30. Demosthenes in litore, in quod se maximo cum sono fluctus illideret, meditans (fieXeTwv) consuescebat concionum fremitus non expavescere. Cic. Fin. v. 2. in Phalerico declamare solitnm Demos- thenem. * Which suggested the ofFer of the cushion to the Demus in the Equites. 783 eiri Taitri TreTyoais o\i (ppovTiX^ei o-/cX?j|Ocos (re Kadtjfxevou oi/tojs" oiix oiinrep eyio puxj/dfievoi croi tovti cpepw' dW eiravaipov, KUTa Kadi'^ou /uaXaKcos... • Hence the use of the word dvui for, "i/i the Pnyx.'''' Demosth. 285. 2. Tras o ci)fi.o^ dvu> Kadfiaro. cf. Plutarch. Nic. 7- Euripides, in describing an Argivc assembly, draws his picture of it from the Athenian 72 CEREMONIES OF DAYS OF ASSEMBLY. [cHAP. X. of the Pnyx. The lustrations are performed. The herald comes forward to invite the orators to speak ; and questions circulate among the audience, what orator will put on the crown, and who now enjoys the sway of the ^bema, of that simple block of stone, the political 6iuL(paX6s of Greece; what will be the object of his harangue, to recommend a war, or a new tribute, and '^ KUTTo rwv TreTpoov avwOev tous Tropovs Ouvvo- (TKOTTGLV. Prom the rocks to watch the taxes swimming in like tunny- shoals. All which speculations, being made under the open sky, may be in a moment terminated by a single drop of rain producing the announcement ^ Siocrrj/uia 'cttiv, kuI pav'^ /3e/3X>7/ce fie' A portent/ for I felt a drop of rain: and thus the assembly be dissolved more rapidly than it met. A question remains to be asked here. Should we be justified in assigning the principal object in the Pnyx, as it is now seen, to so early a period as the time of the Peloponnesian war? As far as Athenian Pnyx. Orest. 871. — op<» S" 6y\ov a-Teixovrra, Kal ddircrovT' d Kf) a V. Hence too the Pnyx was subsequently dedicated to Zeus ux^to-xos. Corp. Inscript. p. 475. ' Pac. (573. ocTTis 'KprneX vvv tou XiOov. - Equites. 313, ^ Archarn. 171. CHAP. X.] CHANGE OF BEMA. 73 the present bema is concerned, I think we should not. It is asserted, on the supposed authority of Phitarch, that the bema of that age looked towards the sea; that it was afterwards turned toward the land by the Thirty Tyrants, who are thought to have thus intimated their antipathy to a popular govern- ment ; a maritime and a democratic power being in their opinion identical. Now the present bema looks in an inland direc- tion : it is not therefore the bema from which Pericles spoke. It has been attempted to obviate this con- clusion by different expedients. The veracity of Plu- tarch has been questioned — his assertion rejected as false. It is impossible, as is alleged, that the aspect of the bema should ever have been such, that an orator standing upon it must have turned his back on the Agora and city of Athens. This seems to be a cogent argument, but is it a pertinent one? The words of Plutarch^ require, I conceive, not so much to be refuted as explained. Their meaning seems to be this. According to its original structure, from the bema in the Pnyx the sea icas visible; the Thirty Tyrants altered it in such a manner that it should not command a view of the sea, but of the * Plutarch, v. Themist. (i. p. 476. Reiske.)^ to ^/1m« ■to iv UvvkI ■jreironiixei/ov coVx' diro^XeTreiu ■Trpos Ttji/ doKaacrav (i. e. SO that a person might look off from it to the sea) vrrTepov ol TpuiKovra irpo^ T^v x<«'|Oai' diriTpexl/av. On this sense of iiTToftXe'Treu', see Buttmann. Excurs. Platon. Alcib. i. 74 CHANGE OF BKMA. [cHAP. X, land only. Now this might be done in two ways ; either the position of the bema might be altered, or its height reduced : its aspect in either case might, and I beheve in reahty did, remain precisely the same as before. From the existing indications on the spot, the former of these two alternatives seems to have been adopted. There are very distinct remains of another solid rectangular rock, in short, of another bema, which has evidently been mutilated by design, at a distance of about twenty-five yards immediately behind the existing one. From the former the sea is distinctly visible ; from the latter it is not. The former, there- fore, I am inclined to believe to be the spot from which Themistocles, Cimon and Pericles, the latter that from which Demosthenes, adckessed the Athenian assembly. CHAPTER XL ATHENS. The Areopagus. Curia Martis Athenis. Juvenal. Sixteen stone steps cut in the rock, at its south- east angle, lead up to the hill of the Areopagus from the valley of the Agora, which lies between it and the Pnyx. This angle seems to be the point of the hill on which the Council of the Areopagus sat. Im- mediately above the steps, on the level of the hill, is a bench of stone excavated in the limestone rock, forming three sides of a quadrangle, like a triclinium : it faces the south : on its east and west side is a raised block : the former may perhaps have been the tribunal, the two latter the rude stones which Pau- sanias saw here, and which are described by Euripides' as assigned, the one to the accuser, the other to the criminal, in the causes which were tried in this court. There the Areopagites, distinguished alike for their ' Pausan. i. 28. 5. Eurip. Iph. T. 962. Orestes says (OS eis "Apeiov 6)(6ov i]kov, ts oiKtiv 6' eo-Tr;i/, eyto fxev daTepou Xa^wv fiddpov TO 8' aXXo TTpeafieip' ijirep »Ji/ '^pivvwv. When we had mounted to the hill of Ares, We scaVd two adverse Steps ; I took the one. The eldest of the Furies trod the other. ■ 76 ST PAUL PREACHING [ CHAP. XI. character, rank, and official dignity, sat as judges, on a rocky hill in the open air\ There are the ruins of a small church on the Areopagus dedicated to S. Dionysius the Areopagite, and commemorating his conversion here by S. PauP. S. Paul stood in the centre of this platform. He was brought, perhaps up these steps of rock which are the natural access to the summit, from the agora below, in which he had been conversing, to give an account of the doctrines which he preached, on the Areopagus hill, probably so chosen as an open space where many might listen at their ease, and also as likely to intimidate the Apostle, being the tribunal for trying capital offences, especially in matters of religion \ Here, placed as he was, he might well describe the city of Athens as he did. With its buildings at his feet, and its statues and temples around him, he might well feel from ocular demonstra- tion that the city was crowded with idols'*. ' J. Pollux. VIII. 10. viraidpioi eoiKa'^ou. " Act. Apost. xvii. 34. ■* Aid tI eis "Apeiov irdyov avTov eVkKov ; <«s /caTaTrXri^oi/Tcs, tvdu Tas ipoviKu^ oiKai ediKaX^oi/. S. Chrysostom ad Act. Apostol. 1. c. * Athens was emphatically a city of Gods, ttoXis dewu. In the ani- mated description of Hegesias quoted by Strabo (396. b.) eKelvo Atm- Kopiov, TovTo Qr\(Te1ov,...ov ovvafxai oi^Xwaai Kad' ev eKaarToV i] yap 'AttikiJ 6EQN ea-Ti KTicrfxa Kal irpoyovwv rjpwwv. A passage, it may be observed, which throws light upon the very similar expressions of Strabo which follow it (p. 396. d.): eir' dWwv ifKeLovwv ea-rlv IcrTopelv TroXXd, Kal eis TO AetoKopiov Kai to 0))a-eZov' OTS e^ei kuI to AvKeiov Kal TO OXvuTTieTov, — where instead of OYS, the word OY^ (i.e. deou^) seems to be required in the text. Concerning this confusion, see Bentley on Free-thinking, p. 118. Bast. Palieog. p. 812. CHAP, XI.] ON THE AREOPAGUS. 77 The temple of the Eumenides was immediately below him : the Parthenon of Minerva facing him above. Their presence seemed to challenge the asser- tion in which he declared here, oti ovk ev xeipo- TTottjTot^ raois KUToiKei o Geos, that in Temples made by hands the Deity does not dwell. In front of him, towering over the city from its pedestal on the rock of the Acropolis, — as the Borromean Colossus, which at this day with outstretched hand gives its benedic- tion to the low village of Arona, or as the brazen statue of the armed angel, which, from the summit of the Castel S. Angelo, spreads its wings over the city of Rome, — was the bronze Colossus of Minerva, armed with spear, shield and helmet, as the Champion of Athens. Standing almost beneath its shade, he pronounced, that the Deity was not to be likened either to that, the work of Phidias, nor to other forms in gold, silver, or stone, graven by art and man's device, which peopled the scene before him. The remark therefore which has been well made'' on the skilful adaptation of S. Paul's oration to the audience which he was addressing, is equally appli- cable to its perfect congruity with the place in which he was addressing them. Nothing could present a grander, and, if we may so speak, a more picturesque and scenic illustration of his subject than the objects with which he was surrounded. In this respect. Nature and Reality painted, at the time and on the spot, a ^ By Bentley, Sermon it. 78 ENCAMPMEXT OF AMAZON'S AND PEB.SIAXS. [cHAP. XI. nobler cartoon of S. Paul's preaching at Athens than the immortal Raffaelle has since done. On the eastern extremity of the Areopagus the ^ Persians encamped under the command of Xerxes before the Acropolis, which was most accessible from this quarter. It seems not improbable, that this historical fact induced the Athenian poet and warrior iEschylus to place the besieging Amazons exactly in the same spot. The history of Athens appears to have thrown its shadow backward on Athenian mythology, not less than its mythology has pro- jected its own over Athenian history. The conflicts of Amazons with Athenians described on the stage, ^painted by Micon and other artists in frescoes, and sculptured with such profusion on the friezes of tem- ples at Athens, were not, I think, thus treated merely on account of their own independent interest or beauty, but were intended to allude, with the indirect delicacy so characteristic of Athenian art, to Athe- nian ^struggles with the Persians, to whom in cos- tume, habit and extraction, as well as in their object and its result, the Amazons were conceived as bear- ing a near resemblance. And if so, the reason is ' Herod, viii. f)2. ^ See Arrian Exped. Alex. vii. p. 470. Blancard. yky pa-KTui )) A6rji/ai(«)i/ Kai X}x.aX,6vixiv ficixv Trpos TLifioivos (read, by transposi- tion of two letters, M'tKcovov, Aristoph. Lys. 678. to? 'Afxd^ova^ CKOTrei, as M lk oiv isypavl/' c (/>' 'iinrwv.) ^ Thus the figure of Paris in the /Eginetan pediment was a copy of a Persian archer. See INIiiller Phid. Vit. p. 58. and a further ana- logy in a monument illustrated by Millingen (Uned. IVlon. ii. p. 15.) (HAP. XI.] UNION OF THE AREOPAGUS AND THE EUMENIDES. 79 evident why, above all persons, ^^^schylus, to whom his share in the battle of Marathon'' against the same Persians appeared more glorious than all his dramatic triumphs, has preferred the particular etymology by which he has explained the name of the Areopagus. The decrees of the Roman Senate gained in au- thority by being passed in a consecrated building. And at Athens it was an ingenious device of state policy to connect the council and court of the Areo- pagus with the worship of the Eumenides. The strong religious awe with which the latter were re- garded, was thus extended to the former. It was consecrated by this union. The design of blending the interests and safety of the tribunal, with the awful- ness of the temple, is seen in the position of both. Some wise well-wisher to the Areopagus placed the shrine of the Eumenides immediately at the foot of the Areopagus h\\V'. The exact position of this temple, if temple it may be called, is at the N.E. angle of the Areopagus, at its base. There is a wide long chasm there formed ■* Eumenid. (Jo5. irayov 6 "Apeiov toiio A/ia^oj/toj/ eSpai', when they besieged the Acropolis, "Apei 6' cdvov evQev £(TT eTrnlyu/ios TTCTpa, TTayos t' " Apeio's.... ^ Pausan. i. 14. 5. •• It has been attributed to Epimenides : but a temple of the Furies stood here before his visit to Athens. Compare Thuc. i. 126. Plut. Sol. 12. 80 LOCAL AND POLITICAL UNION OF [cHAP. XI. by split rocks, through which we enter a gloomy recess. Here is a fountain of very dark water. A female peasant, whom I find here with her pitcher, in the very adytum of the Eumenides, says that the source flows during the summer {rpe-^ei to KaXoKoipi.) She says that it is esteemed for its medicinal virtues : it is known by the name Karasou, which in Turkish signifies, as I am informed, black water. That this is the site of the Temple of the Semnai it is superfluous to 'repeat proofs. That this dark recess and fountain formed, with a few artificial addi- tions, the very temple itself, is I think equally certain. The character of the temple is described by ancient authors with the same clearness as its position. To those descriptions the spot in which we are, com- pletely corresponds. Here is the chasm of the earth; this is the subterranean chamber; this the source of water", — which were the characteristics of the temple in question^. The place was well adapted to the soleimi charac- ter of the deities to whom it was consecrated : the torches with which the ^Eumenides were afterwards furnished as a poetic attribute, perhaps owed their origin to the darkness of this Athenian temple in which ' See Dobree Adversar. i. p. 47. Miiller Eumenid. p. 179, and in his Appendix to Leake, p. 454. - Perhaps alluded to Soph. CEd. Col. 157. 3 EuT. Elect. 1272. irdyov irap avTOV y^atrfxa hhaovrai x^ovo^. j^schyl. Eumen. 908. BaXa/noi. .. .kuto y^s. * Aristoph. Plut. 424. Cicero de Leg. i. 14. CIIAl'. XI.] TIIK AHKOPAlil'S A\U Till-: ECMEMDKS. 8l those goddesses were enshrined, ^^schyhis imagined the procession which escorted the Eumenides to this their temple, as descending the rocky steps above described from the platform of the Areopagus, then winding round the eastern angle of that hill, and con- ducting them with the sound of music and the glare of torches along this rocky ravine to this dark enclo- sure. In his time the contrast of the silence and gloom of this sacred place with the noise and splendour of the city, in the heart of which it was, must have been inexpressibly solemn. Now, the temple and its neighbourhood are both alike desolate and still. 5 Eum. 'J0«. irpos (j)wi lepov TwvSe irp otto fair on/ KUTu yj/s" trvfievai. CHAPTER XII. ATHENS. Sacred Grottoes. .... irerpai KinXui, a\i]piKw. In the conclusion of the Schol. Aristoph. Lysist. 913, H-Xexf/vSpa ex*^' """"* pcuaeL<; vtto yTjv (pepovrra ets tou *AErPEQAH AEIMQNA should be corrected to twu *AAHPEQN AIMENA. A remarkable diminution of the water was observed by the Greeks in the siege of 1820, during the months of July and August, and during those only. f2 84 LYSISTRATA ODYSSEUS. [cHAP. XII. with brick, and opens out into a small subterranean chapel, dedicated to the Holy Apostles, with niches cut in its sides. In the chapel is a well, surmounted with a peristomium of marble : below which is the water now at the distance of about thirty feet. The Clepsydra in ancient times was, as it is now, accessible from the citadel. This consideration will explain why, in the 'Lysistrata of Aristophanes, the particular mode of defence is selected, which is there adopted by the besieged women in the Acropolis. The local objects suggested it. It was this fountain which supplied the women with its water to extin- guish the fire, and drench the persons of their veteran besiegers beneath the wall. The same fountain has since served to supply a Greek water-clock, and a Turkish mosque. In modern times, the Clepsydra has verified its name. The access to it from the Acropolis was utterly lost till very recently, for a considerable period. It was discovered- in 1828, and in the succeeding year both the steps and the fountain were enclosed in the fortified circuit of the Acropolis, by the erection of a new bastion projecting from the north wing of the Propylsea, and returning to abut upon the rock which adjoins the Propylsea to the east. This out-work was executed in the month of September of that year, ' Lysist. 377. ^ M. Pittakys, the Athenian Topographer of Athens, claims the honour of this discovery. Athtnr.s, p. Iftri. 1 CUAI'. XII.] THE CLEPSYDKA. 85 by the Greek Chief Odysseus, when he was in pos- session of the fortress. Ho has commemorated the work, by tlie following inscription which appears on a marble slab in the external face of the bastion, W 4, n o g ^ < < < ± Q I h ^ 5 < S ^ V ^ W S2 ^ Q P5 „ < ^ cj S I ^ r< ^ « 5! •- ^ Z ^1^ •^ fft I w ^ •- < < < ^5 m CQ ^ *• o OJ Z LU > ^ I g o o < ^1 L. Z N I M 02 "^ uj h t: ^ s < . Q. - < Z S oJ »J a- ^ O Q > n j! cfl Q. ^ g " Z v> ^ fi; O eg pq CjL-jIcflQ. ^^£ uJ I 5 i^ ca S 2 « >< Z ^ Ci s 13 § 5 < W < "J ^ > -. H p W uj ^j c .. ^^ Q- O W h LU g I a a o^ to tt f>0(rKe(j)d\a lo u rtOTOs vtto (tt pwaa i is explained from the hardness of the seat. CIIAI'. XIU.] IME THEATRL D ESCRIBEO. 91 of soil, the removal of which would probably bring to light the whole shell of the Theatre. Above these seats is a grotto, which was first converted into a Temple by Thrasyllus, a successful Choregus, to commemorate the victory of his chorus, and more recently into a church. A large fragment of the architrave of this Temple of Thrasyllus, with a part of the inscription upon it, is now lying on the slope of the Theatre: it has been hewn into a drinking-trough. The Temple and the Church are both in ruins; and the decorated grotto has become once more a simple cave. A little to the west of the cave is a large rect- angular niche, in which no doubt a statue once stood : there are also some holes bored in the rock, as if for the insertion of horizontal beams, on which, in the more effeminate times of Athens, a velarium, or awning, was perhaps extended. These are the only remains now visible of the Theatre itself. The objects immediately connected with it are two columns which stand on the rocks above the Theatre and below the Cimonian or southern wall of the Acropolis. The triangular summits of the capitals of these columns once supported tripods dedicated to Bacchus by Choregi who had gained the dramatic prize in the Theatre below. About the base of the more eastern of the two were inscribed the names of these victors: they are now in this mutilated state, 92 DRAMATIC INSCRIPTIONS. [cHAP. XIII. iHAI MAX'I^OC lAinnOC FA.... OC OTATONEIKOO A little to the east of the cave above noticed are two other inscriptions'- cut in the face of the rock, on our right as we ascend toward the two columns : the first is M HTP OBIOY Thp oblation of Metrohiius, and a little above it to the east, similarly engraved in the rock, is Al n El COON I ANOQKAI rPI nOCAN E e ECAN Aulas Pisonianus and Gripus dedicated this^. If these inscriptions Avere placed here by success- ful Choregi under tripods dedicated by themselves, as seems most probable, they clearly prove, by the characters in Avhich they are engraved, that the ' There were therefore at this tune three o-uyxo/oijyoi. Compare Clinton F. H. ii. p. 83. - The rock above the highest seat in the Theatre which has been cut perpendicularly, was called, from this circumstance, KaTctTo/xij. It is well illustrated by Harpocratio in v. K«Taxo^i;, who there mentions tripods (such as these on the columns) above the Theatre, and inscriptions like those I have noticed, cut in the face of the rock. •^ Compare Rose, Inscript. p. xxxix. CHAP. XIII.] SIZE OF THK TIIEATHK. 9-3 Athenian Theatre was used for dramatic exhibitions till a late period after the reduction of Athens by the Roman power. The * exact dimensions of the Theatre it is impossible now to ascertain. The projecting horns of its semicircle were constructed of a coarse pudding- stone. From the inner extremity of one of these horns to that of the other is about seventy-five yards. From this line to the highest seat, by the slope, is a hundred yards. There seems to have been an entrance for the spectators from the N.E. at an elevated point of this slope. DicEearchus is supposed to have described this theatre as the most magnificent existing in the world in his day. Such an assertion is thought to be con- firmed by the authority' of Plato, who speaks of more than thirty thousand persons assembled in this place. If this were really ever the fact, the assertion imputed to Dicsearchus would certainly be true. No theatre in the world would then have vied with that of Athens in grandeur. The evidence of this locality itself is so much at variance with those two assertions, that I am in- 4 It is calleA Hecatompedum, by Hesychius in v. hKaT6fi.ir€5ov, probably from its symmetry alone. ■* Sympos. 175. e. ( where Socrates is speaking of Agathon's dramatic victory in the theatre.) t; 5o£« cti>iii iyevrro iv pdpTvcriv EXXtjcw/' irXiov 1; ■T p 1(7 IIV pioi^. f'HAP. XIII.] I'ROM ITS I.OCAI. SCEXEHY. 95 of the Ilissus not far beneath, at the beginning of spring, under a transparent atmosphere, and a clear sky, with a gentle breeze blowing on them from the sea, here the spectators sat, encircled by numberless ^enchantments of nature and art, which the Athe- nian Theatre combined and blended in exquisite per- fection. The dramatic influence of this union, of this in- terweaving as it were of natural scenery with that of the theatre itself, de^serves here a moment's con- sideration. It is evident that it furnished the scenic poet with a greater range of subjects, and with greater freedom in treating them. To one of these Poets it gave free scope to his bold conceptions, and sup- plied objects for his imagination to deal with. It will be found that most of the metaphorical expressions of ^Eschylus are derived from objects which were visible to the audience while they listened to the recital of those expressions in the theatre. Seas and storms, building of ships and their navigation ; feeding of flocks on the hills, hunting in the woods, fishing on the sea, walls and fortifications, the Stadium and ^ The effect of this enchantment is, in the author's usual style, fanci- fully illustrated in the topographical fragment on Athens (Dicaearchus p. 9.) ecTTi Tal^ 6eats t) ttcJXis \ii6i]i> efiTroiovaa (read e fxtr lou act, i. e. imbibing oblivion, "longa oblivia /joiffxs " by meas of public spectacles; compare Lucian. Tim. p. 170. Kaddivep to Xjj'Orjs vhwp eKiricov) Ti;s twv (titoji/ irporT(popd?. Dicaearchus here means to say, " The city of Athens, be- guiles itself of hunger by means of its dramatic Spectarlrs."' 9G SUGGESTIONS TO THE TRAGEDIANS [cHAP. XIII. its course ; these are the usual, the simple and na- tural sources, from which /Eschylus derived his copious streams of figurative diction. They are all either immediately within view, or in near connection with that theatre where the language they enriched was uttered. They were almost the natural elements of which the poetical atmosphere of that theatre was composed : the dramatic poet breathed them as his native air. Similarly, Sophocles (Ajax 596.) speaks with a local truth, when he says in the Theatre at Athens, of the islands of Salamis, to KXetva ^aXajui^, av juev ttov I'aiei^ dX'nrXayKTo^ eucaiixiou Tvaaiv ire fj'i] to. ev ttoXci. LuciAN. Piscator xv. Let us ascend the Acropolis, that we may have a Panoramic view of the city. In its best days the Acropolis of Athens had four distinct characters. It was at once the Fortress, the ^ Sacred Enclosure, the Treasury, and the ^ Museum of ' Lysist. 484. ajSuTOU 'AKpOTToXlV le pov TEfievo^. ^ There is a particular allusion to the Acropolis, and this its character as a Museum in Dicaearchus (p. 9.) where he calls the city of Athens dav- fxaa-Tov ITAINGINQN "^wwv oiSaaKaXeTou ; which expression has been cor- rupted by the transcribers: for what are X,Ma -jrXiuGtva? The true reading I conceive to be davfiaa-rov TI AfeiNQN ZQIQN dioaaKaXelov, i. e. "a certain admirable Studio of Sculpture.'"'' That works of sculpture were called ^wa XWiva, is evident from Philemon. ( Athensei 605. f.) dXX' ev 2a/^(o fj.ev tou Xidivov '^loov ttots avOpuiTTOi j/yoacSj; tis. At Sanios too a man once fell in love With the Statue in the Temple. And Aristotle (in Diog. Laert. v. p. 277- quoted by Meineke,) X,u>a Xidiva dvadelvai Ai'c kuI 'Adiiva. Hence the frieze of a building is called its zojihorits, Xido^ ■Kp6aXd^ Guo'ets ev tuis lepais Addvai^. in Pindar, (frag. Dith. iv. p. 225, Dissen. ) ■' Cicero (at the end of his Proocni. Paradox.) Opus, talc ut in Arcc poni posset; quasi ilia Minerva Phidia. 104 ASCENT TO THE ACROPOLIS. [cHAP. XIV. graplier in Athens, and especially in the Acropolis. At this time were he to revive he would feel much relieved from his embarrassment. Descriptions of them have increased in number, while objects to be de- scribed have diminished. The Heliodori^ and Polemons of modern times have been as active as their prede- cessors in the same field, and with less material to employ them. We need not therefore regret with the Greek geographer, that our subject is too wide for our limits. This remark is more particularly appli- cable to the decorated buildings of Athens. A great part of the old city might now be rebuilt from modern descriptions of it. We pass from the Theatre toward the S.W. angle of the citadel, in our way thither. At this angle "stood the Temple of Venus Pandemus and Peitho. This Temple, though no longer in existence, is noticed for the sake of a passage of Euripides, which seems still to require illustration. Euripides there tells his audience, that this spot, which was near^ the Theatre, ' Polemon wrote four books on the Acropolis; Heliodorus fifteen. We read of Roman writers also, "qviibus unum opus est intactae Pal- ladis Arcem Carmine perpetuo celebraie" 2 Pausan. i. 22, 3. Comp. Boeck. Corp. Ins. i. p. 474. 3 This nearness of the Temple of Peitho to the Theatre gave addi- tional force and boldness to an assertion of the same dramatist in another play acted in the same place : ovK eo-Ti nEieOYS lEPON aWo vXi]v \dyos. Kal BQM02 avTij^ ken' iv di>6 pooirov (pvaei. EuRir. frag. Antig. There is no other Temple of Persuasion Thau Speech; and in Man's Heart her Altar is. CHAP. XIV,] ILLUSTRATION OF THE HIPPOLYTUS. 105 and appealed to, no doubt, by Aphrodite, while she recited the following lines, was chosen by Phsedra for the site of a temple to Venus, as commanding a view of Troezen, (which it does) where Hippolytus was residing. * Ylerpav irap avTrjv FlaXXaoos', Karo\\/Lov yrjs Trjaoe vaov KuTrpioo^ KaOeicraTo TO XoiTTOv covoiuai^ev idpuaOai Qeau. Close to the rock of Pallas, looking on This land, a Temple she to Venus reared. Loving a foreign love : but now, she vows, Here Venus stands, Hippolytus, for Thee. — This latter clause is, I think, to be thus ex- plained^. A temple on this same spot had been be/ore " Eurip. Hippol. 30. ^ This association, as deal (rOvvaoi, in the same Temple, of Aphro- dite and Peitho. {Suadela Venusqiie) is illustrated by Pausan. i. 22, 3. and the elegant fragment of Ibycus. Athen. 564. d. o-e fxev Kinrpt^ a t dyai/o(i\6) not to record a popular union, but (iTnroXvTM I' e-iri) for the sake of the absent Hippolytus. The erection of this temple by Phsedra was therefore well mentioned by Euri- pides, as a proof of her infatuation. She had thus built for her own passion over the monument of her husband's policy ; and had sacrificed the honour of her home and of her adopted nation to that of an individual stranger, and him, her husband's Son. A little higher, on the right, is a spot connected with the history of the same heroic family. ^Egeus is said by Pausanias to have watched from this place the where the members of the group are identical with those in that of Scopas mentioned by Pliny. Com. Pausan. i. 43, fi. The Latin accu- sative untem has much perplexed transcribers. See the Latin Schol. in Runkel's Cratinus p. 82, where, for "Jupiter in Ramiim evolavit Attica; regionis," not Rhumwoita, but Rhamn/f/i/cw (i. c. Rhamnum) is to be substituted. CHAl'. XIV. J I'OPOGRAPHY OF CATLLLUS. 107 return of his sons vessel from Crete. It is curious to observe how the oldest Athenian traditions cling to the Athenian Acropolis ^ and while this rock itself is thus clad with a venerable ideal beauty, arising from the age and varied hues of these — if we may so call them, — its old mythological lichens clustering about its sides, — it is at the same time by their pre- sence proved to have been, as we know from history it was, the cradle in which the infant population of Athens was nursed. This particular spot commands a wide prospect of the sea. From this rock ^Egeus threw himself when he saw the black sail on his son s mast. There is a truth and beauty in the description of Catullus which can no where be more sensibly felt than on this spot. At Pater ut surama prospectum ex arce petebat, Aiixia in assiduos absumens lumina tletus, Quum priraum intlati prospexit lintea veli, Prsecipitem sese scopulorum e vertice jecit Amissum credens inmiti Thesca fato. Mounting the City's speculative crest. Spending on ceaseless tears his anxious eyes. When first the Sire the swollen sail espied. Prom the cliff's brow he headlong fell, believing His Theseus snatcKd away by ruthless Fate. Catullus has been saved from an error, perhaps by his acquaintance with the scene, into which later ' ThuC. ir. 14. TO TTpO TOVTOV CtKpOTToXtS »( VVV OVCTCl TToKlI IJV' Of which fact the citadel still preserved a record in its name, Polls. Thuc. II. 15. KaXeTTUL Sid ti]v iraXaidv TavT\i KUTo'iKtiaii' ?) uKpo- TToXts fiexpi- TovSe eVt vir' AOiji/ai'tov ttoXis. 108 TEMPLE OF WIXGLESS VICTORY. [cHAP. XIV, writers have fallen. They, with few exceptions, make ^geiis 'throw himself from the rock of the Acropolis into the sea, which is three miles off. Here also stood the Temple of Victory, a little to the west of the southern wing of the Propylsea. The statue of Victory in this temple, was sculptured wingless. Such a representation of Victory was con- formable to the more ancient, but not to the then^ received method of exhibiting that Goddess. The dif- ference in the modes by which Sparta and Athens respectively expressed the same feeling with respect to this deity, is characteristic of both. To secure the permanence of her favour the Spartans chained their Victory to her shrine : the Athenians relieved their's of her wings\ This Temple of Victory brings Lysistrata and her opponents once more before us. The latter mount ' In order to give a name to the Mgean. (Serv. jEneid. iii. 74. Keightly Mythol. p. 349.) which etymology is refuted by the word Mgean alone. The sea is Alyaloi/ TreXayos : but the adjective from iEgeus is Aiyelos. They both occur in ^schyl. Ag. 645. Eumen. 653. The accurate observation of the Scholiast on Apoll. Rhod. i. 831. might have cautioned the mythologists against this error. 2 For, Aristoph. Aves 574. auxixro Nikj) Trererat irTepvyoiv \pv(Ta1v. 3 Pausan. iii. 15, 7- This Deity was also termed Nj/oj 'Adijva (on which see Dobree Advers. i. p. 482.) Standing thus as she did at the exit from the Acropolis, she was properly implored, to aid them as an escort, (-rrpoTro/^TTos) by persons starting on any dangerous enterprise, as in Soph. Philoct. 134. 'Ep/xTJ^ 6 irenTrwv 3d\ios i/yj/ffatTO viov, Ni'/ct) t' 'Addva IloXtos, »i ffw^ei n' del. CHAP. XIV.] ILLUSTKATION OF THE LYSISTRATA. 10!) toward the citadel by nearly the same path as we are now treadhig. They arc come to what they well call the Vt/^v of the Acropolis. No other word can so well express the character of the flat slope on its western side, the only accessible approach to the citadel. They are supposed to be arriving at this point. Hence their invocation for aid to Victory {^eaTroiva N'lkti ^vyyevod,) before whose temple they stand. Again, the expressions by which their courage displays itself have a peculiar propriety, which a reference to the spot on which they are uttered, can alone explain. They declare their fixed determination never to yield to their female antagonists: they will, they say extirpate all tyranny, they will wield the myrtle-braided sword, and take their stand here close to Aristogeiton, whose glorious deeds they intend to rivaP. This boast is very appropriate; for the statue of Aristogeiton stood 4 Whence the modern Greek word a^fxd near, and " d7roop}](rco TO gtc^oe to Xol-ttov kv fxvpTOv kXciSi, dyopda-oi T 6v ToTs liirXoL^ e£r> ApicrToyclTovi w8e 6' to-Tijgw Trap' avToV I will ivield my stvord hereafter braided loilh the myrtle nnay. Near Aristogeiton standing, arm'd, and in the Agora Here will keep my post beside him. This last trait is very characteristic and happy : for in ordinary cases when an honorary statue, to be placed in the Agora, was granted by the Athenian State, it was expressly provided by a clause in the grant itself, that the Statue should not be placed near that of Aristogeiton; but, in fact, any ivhere else in the Agora e.vcept egf/s- 'ApLinn OYENArOPAIOPOYAMBOYAH TAinAHNPAPAPMOAIONKAl APIZTOrEITON A. [Be it decreed] to give him both maintenance in the Prytaneum and a front-seat at all the Games celebrated by the state, and to the el- dest of his descendants, and that permission may be granted him to erect also a Bronze Equestrian Statne of himself in the Agora, wherever he may choose except BY THE SIDE OF HaRMODIUS AND Aristogeiton. Compare Cramer's Greece, ii. p. 304. Die. Chrys. i. p. 037. on the especial honours, (Tt/^aJ i^aipeToi as the latter calls them,) paid to Aristogeiton. ' Arriau. Exp. Alex. iii. p. 197. Blancard. ' Apfxooiov koI Apiaro- yeiTOVo^ )faX/>:ot e'lKoue^ KelvTai Ad)}vri(Ttv iv K.epa/i€iK(Jp, tJ avifxev es TToXtv KaravTiKpi) /idXiarn tov Mi]Tpwov... ^' \ CHA1\ XIV,] WINGLESS VICTOHY, 111 same play. The Lysistrata of Aristophanes, m some of its scenes, is the best topographical guide-book to the Athenian Acropolis ~. - Recent discoveries have brought to light this Temple of Victory, I owe the following communication on the subject to W. R. Hamilton, Esq. " The height of the columns, some of which are in silii, is 3. 58. French metres. The wall of the cella is replaced to the height of about two feet. The southern wing of the Propyliea, to the west of which the Temple stands, was within the line of the northern wing." CHAPTER XV. ATHENS THE ACROPOLIS. PropylcBtt, Parthenon. Adsta, atque Athenas antiquum opulentum oppidum Contempla; atque templum Cereris ad laevam adspice. 'Ennius Medea, p. 22. Scriver. Pause here, and scan the rich and antique Athe?is, And mark the fane of Ceres on the left. Theke is something of peculiar interest attached to that single door of St Peter's Church at Rome, which is opened by the hand of the Pope to admit into the church the crowds of the periodic Jubilee ; and at all other times, remains shut. No one can look on that entrance without reflecting what a deep and strong tide of feeling has flowed tlirough it. Here we stand now before the Propylsea of the Athenian Acropolis. Through the central door of this building moved the periodic processions of the Panathenaic Jubilee. The marks of their chariot ' The Temple of Ceres, (see Pausan. i. 22.) stood on the 7-il of both. VUAP. XV.] l>l(OPYI>.f;A OF THE CITADEL. 113 wheels are still visible on the stone floor of its en- trance. In the narrow space between those two ruts in the pavement, the feet of the noblest Athenians, since the age of Pericles, have trod. Here, above all places at Athens, the mind of the traveller enjoys an exquisite pleasure. It seems as if this portal had been spared in order that our imagination might send through it, as through a triumphal arch, all the glories of Athenian antiquity in visible parade. In our visions of that spectacle we would unroll the long Panathenaic frieze of Phidias, transferring the procession from its place on the marble walls of the cella of the Parthenon, in order that, endued with ideal life, it might move through this splendid avenue, as its original did of old. The erection of the Propylsea was commenced at the most brilliant period of Athenian history. The year itself, the archonship of Euthymenes, in which the enterprise was undertaken, seems to have been proverbial for its sumptuous conceptions'". The Pro- pylsea were completed in five years. They were hence- forth always appealed to as the proudest ornaments of the Athenian city, 2 For it seems probable that this character for its profuse expenditure, as well as the distance of the epoch, recommended the year of Euthymenes to the choice of Aristophanes in Acharn. 67- cTre'/jx'/aO' »)/^as tos fiacriKea -roj/ /ueyaf «Tr' Eiidufieuovi dpX"'^'''0'^"' i, e. in the most lavish times. H 114 PROPYL.EA OF THE CITADEL. [ciTAP. XV. The day in which it should be their lot to guide their festal Car in the sacred procession through this doorway into the citadel ^ was held out by fond mothers to their aspiring sons as one of the most glorious in their future career. Even national enemies paid homage to the magnificence of the fabric : and when in the Theban assembly Epaminondas intended to convey to his audience that they must struggle to transfer the glory of Athens to Thebes, he thus ex- pressed that sentiment by a vivid image : "Oh men of Thebes, you must ^qyroot the Propylwa of the Athenian Acropolis ^ and plant them in front of the Cadmean Citadel." The Propyleea stood like a splendid frontispiece, a rriXavyh irpoaamov, of the Athenian Citadel. If we might compare the whole Acropolis to one of our own Minsters planted on a hill, the Propylsea were its West Door. It was this particular point in the ' Arist. Nub. 69. oTav (TV jueyas wv (ipfi eXdvvij'S TTfio^ HoXii' When you grow up, and to the Citadel Shall guide your Car. " ^schines. tt. it. 29. Compare the catalogue of the mirabilia of Athens in Phoenic. Athenjei 6j2. e. whence it may be inferred that the Propylaea were sometimes simply termed JlvXai, as the old entrance was by Herod, viii. 52. and that this is the case in the times of Alexis (Ath. 336. e.) Ti TuvTa Xi]pel^ On this application of Painting to Architecture, as exemplified in the Parthenon, see Kugler iiber die Polychromie der Griechen p. ff7, of the translation by I\Ir W. R. Hamilton, inserted in the Transactions of British Architects, 1835. CHAP. XV.] PEDIMENTS OF THE PARTHENON. 117 kind, will furnish him with sufficient elements to con- struct in his own mind a Parthenon of his own, Quale Te dicet tamen Antehac fuisse, tales cum sint Relliquice ! But how shall he describe Thy Perfectness, ivhen such Thy Ruins are/ Some of the sculptured parts however, as belong- ing to a different class of productions from the pictorial and architectural, will baffle all his processes of re- storation. The attempt to infer the treatment and details of the altorilievo group which once occupied the eastern pediment from the fragments of it which remain, would be as futile an enterprise as that to reconstruct an Athenian Tragedy from a few broken lines. The group of the western pediment has been more fortunate. From the parts of it which remain, its subject — the contest of Minerva with Neptune for the dominion of Athens — and the manner in which that subject was treated have now, with a few reser- vations, been fully developed-. One of the vestiges in the fabric of the Parthenon, though of a very different and less obtrusive kind, possesses a peculiar interest. At Pompeii the im- pression of the ancient cyathus which is at this day visible on the marble slab of the shop there, is one of those incidents, — touching perhaps more sensibly because its touch is so slight — which makes the 2 By IMuller de Parthenonis Fastigio in his Comment, de Phidife Vita, p. 75. sqq. with a sketch of a proposed restoration. See also CoL. Leake's 3Iemoir on the Disputed Positions in Athens, p. 40. 118 IMPRESSIOX.S OF SHIELDS. [cHAP. XV. spectator feel towai'd the old inhabitants of that place as toward acquaintances who have just left him. This feeling, and more than this, arises naturally in the mind, when you look on the eastern front of the Parthenon, and see beneath its metopes the impressions which have been left there by the round shields which were once attached to that part of its marble face. Beneath them are visible also the traces of the inscriptions which recorded the names of those by whom those shields in battle had been worn, and by whom they had been won. I will not pretend to the ingenuity which has recovered a whole sentence on the portico of the ISIaison Carree at Nismes from the holes left by the bronze nails with which the letters of that sentence were attached to the temple, however much we should wish to be in- formed who, in the present case, the persons comme- morated were. We may, I believe, without any risk of being convicted of error, refer the dedication of these shields on the Parthenon to any Athenian favourite, whose memory we may wish particularly to honour. Still all their history is not involved in the same obscurity. There is reason to think that these very shields, of which we now see the impressions, had caught the eye of Euripides, and that they suggested the expres- sions, by the mouth of his chorus, of a wish' for repose and tranquillity which in a long war that poet himself so deeply felt, ' See this longing expressed in his Supplices, v. 4R7- CHAP. XV.] EURIPIDES ILLUSRTATED. 119 KciaOw Sopu /uoi /JLiTov a^7reoo«,-. Plutarch V. Cat. II. p. 555. Pericl. I. p. 619. and the remarkable passage de Glor. Athen. vii. p. 377- where he is summing up the splendid results of Athenian conquests, which are oXai. TToXeis, K(u vPia-oi, Kcd ij-rreipoi. Kal yij )(OTa\ai/Toi, Kal \uei.Siov, to «/c xpvcrou Kal eXe]vntwif.,, rJIAF. XVI.] THE PEPLOS OF MINERVA POLIAS. 127 This Pcplos, again, was not a veil (irafjaTreracriua) suspended before the statue in the temple : it was the drapery in which the statue itself was invested. To this custom of draping the statue with the Peplos Euripides seems to allude^. yeyrjOe Koafxov TrpocrTiOei^ ayaXfiari KaAoU KUKICTTW Kttl IT € IT Ko Id IV €K7rOV€C. Glad, though he hangs a fair robe on a rude Statue, and toith a peplos tiicks it out. The obscure epithet by which ^schylus describes an attitude of Minerva may, perhaps, be best explained by a reference to this treatment of this particular statue. Tn the Eumenides ^ Orestes is introduced by the poet as a suppliant in this very Temple of Minerva Polias ; and clasping the knees of this same statue. He then invokes the goddess to come to his aid, ...el're ■^lopa^' ev tottoi^ AipvarriKoi^ Ti9r](riu opOov ij KaTr]p€v irepl avTe(pvpoov (Treptav- Tocpopwv?) Xeyofxivuiv, YiaWdoLa 'jrepiavT6 t?;? ASij^as Uavcpocrov vadi rrvvexi]^ ea-Ti. 3 In Philochor. Atthid. Siebel. p. 2, a dog is described as entering the shrine of Polias, and thence penetrating {ovaa) into that of Pandrosus: (hence the shrine of Pandrosus was the interior chamber, i. e. the irestern of the two, and the central of the three), in which was the sacred olive, and beneath it the altar of Zei/s epKelos. This altar was properly placed in the centre of this building, as of a public avXi'i. The words of \'^irgil j^dibus in mediis, nudoque sub aetheris axe Ingens ara fuit, juxtaque veterrima laurus Incumbens ara atque umbra complexa Penates, Kive CHAP. XVII.] DISTRIBUTION OF ERECTHEUM, 1S3 from the Pandroseum, be not of comparatively recent erection,) served, I conceive, only as a ''corridor of communication between the northern and southern porticoes. Another part of this fabric the object of which may be enquired, is the space enclosed by the beau- tiful Caryatid portico on the southern side. It may, I think, be inferred from the language of the Athe- nian ^inscription found in the Acropolis, which ex- hibits the report of the architectural commissioners appointed in the year before Christ 409, to examine what Avas then defective in the Erectheum, or requi- site for its completion, that this portico was the place in which Cecrops was believed to have been interred, and thence called the ^Cecropium. giv€ a good picture of this spot and its features. The triple division of the Erectheum might have suggested Ovid's description (iMetam. ii. 737.) of the chambers of the daughters of Cecrops Tres habuit thalamos, quorum tu Pandrose dextrum, Aglauros lasvum, medium possederat Herse. ■* It could not be part of the Cecropium, for its western exterior wall is described in the inscription cited below as Trpd^ tov UavSpoa-eiov, (not TO) IlavSpoa-etut), nor could it be the Pandroseum, for that was (Till/exes to the shrine of Polias : it was a neutral ground, without any other specific name than arrod, by which I believe it to be described in the inscription. * Boeck. C. I. 261. Wilkins Atheniensia, p. 195. Rose, Inscr. p. 144. " On this ground ; the Kopat (so the Caryatides are termed in the inscription), are described there as standing ev t?7 irpoa-TciireL (portico) T?7 TT/oos Tw KeKpoiriw, whereas the northern portico is described as TTpos TOV 6vpoSfxaTo9. lu the foHiier, the dative case signifies that the Caryatid portico was a part of, and attached to the Cecropium : while in the latter, the yeiiitivc indicates that the northern portico was only in the direction of or towards the portal. 134 PRESENT STATE OF ERECTHEUM. [cHAP. XVII. It would require a much longer inscription than that just alluded to, to specify in minute detail what is now defective or dilapidated in this edifice, A general statement may suffice. Of the eastern hexastyle portico five columns are still standing : but the south wall of the cella is almost entirely de- stroyed. In the Caryatid portico one of the four marble beams of the roof has fallen ; three only of the six Caryatides remain ; there survive but two of the four engaged columns in the western wall : the north wall of the cella and three of the columns in the north hexastyle portico, with the roof over these last columns, are yet entire : the rest of the roof of this graceful portico has fallen. It fell during the siege of Athens, in 1827. There were four objects of great interest, as con- nected with the early history of Athens, contained in this temple. In its eastern chamber was " the ancient statue," above mentioned, of Minerva Polias ; in the contiguous chamber of Pandrosos was the spring of sea-water which, in the presence of Cecrops, Neptune had there fetched with his trident from the rock, to support his claim to the property of the Athenian soil : here also was the impression of the ' trident, the symbol of the god of the sea, stamped upon the ' yEschylus (Suppl. 218.) seems to draw his picture from this object in the Athenian citadel, when he says of an Argive Temple, opw T p'laiv av T);'v5e crij /xeT o li Oeou. Hegesias (in Strabo p. 396.) applies this identical expression to the tri- dent in the Erectheum. i>p(~> -rijv nKpoTroXiu Kal t6 irepl -rTji T p iaivi}'S CHAP. XVII.] OLIVE AND TRIDENT. 135 rock ; and lastly, here grew the ^sacred olive-tree of Minerva, which she had produced from the earth, a pledge of peace and plenty by land, as the emblem of Neptune was of dominion by sea. The olive of Minerva and the trident of Nep- tune were symbols of two rival powers. That they were understood as such is proved by a remarkable passage of Euripides^, which is to be explained from the consideration that these two sjanbols were dis- tinguished alike for their contrast and proximity. They were both contained in the same chamber of this temple. In that passage Praxithea, the daughter of Cephi- sus and wife of Erectheus, thus confirms her intention, in obedience to the oracle, to devote her daughter to death in behalf of the glory and the religion of her country, which was then menaced by an invasion of Thracians under Eumolpus the reputed son of Neptune, ovK eaO , SKOvarj^ ttjs efxrj^ yj/v^t]^ awep, TTOoyoi'iov iraXaia Qea/xi bari^ eKpaXei, ovo avT 6 A a a? y^pvcr€a c z < w UJ < z < o an < S w K H o a »r w Eh < o 1 o 1 ■< Co S Meed of Wisdom: ce for Grace, our I a X to P. '0 w < > < C5 H O CO ^ ^ M !i) .a < z z < CJ w o h o H E- 00 ■< ts ■^ < <1 w UJ UJ z < E-c CO 5 ^ g s M < N ^^ W PS < C!< < M UJ o Ui Z > z > o h CHAP. XVII.] ORATION AGAINST LEPTINES. 141 2. Inserted in the outside of the southern wall to the west of the' Theatre is KEKPOPIl PAIAHN ENIKA KTH2.irr01XABPI0Y EXO PH TEI AA The Cecropid Tribe gained the prize tvith a Chorus of Boys, of which Ctesippus the Son of Chabrias defrayed the expense. This small fragment of a marble slab is a curious historical document. It informs us of a fact that cannot be learnt elsewhere, from which we discover the result of one of the most important orations of Demosthenes. His oration against Leptines was com- posed in behalf of ^Ctesippus the dissolute son of Chabrias, who is mentioned in the above inscription : its object was to secure to Ctesippus the immunity from public burdens, which he enjoyed in consequence of the exploits of his father, and of which the law of Leptines threatened to deprive him. Of these public burdens the yoprjyia was one of the most onerous. This marble presents us with a proof that Ctesippus performed the office of Choragus. Demosthenes there- fore failed in his attempt^. - Concerning whom see Plut. v. Phoc. p. 302. Demosth. p. 717, Atheneeus iv. 105. Wolf, proleg. Lept. p. 53. 3 Dio Chrysostom indeed (i. p. 035.) asserts that Leptines was con- demned : (kaXo) -ypat/jj/s.) This we know to have been impossible from the nature of the suit. The legal term {Trpodea/xLa) in which Leptines was subject to prosecution, liad expired. He was dv€vdwos (see Arg. Dem. Lept. 453. 9.) It is singular that F. A. Wolf should have approved this 142 INSCRIPTIONS ERASED. [CHAP. XVII. 3. Near the descent to the source of the Clep- sydra is inscribed on a pedestal : O A H M O Z TNAION AKEPPXINION nPOKAON ANOYHATON THS EIS EAYTON EYNOIAZ KAI KHAEMONIAZ ENEKA The People erect a Statue to Gnceus Acerronius Proclus, Proconsul, on account of his good will and devotion to itself. This may be called a palimpsest inscription, for below the last line may be discerned the words nearly erased PPAEITEAHZ EPOEI, proving that a statue sculptured by Praxiteles had been converted into a representation of a Roman Proconsul ! To what degradation were Athenians sunk, when they also converted, as they did, the equestrian statues of the two ^ Sons of Xenophon, which stood near this this statement of D. Chrysostom, vvhen he himself observes in the next page, that the title tt/jos AeirTLVi)v, and not KaTa AeirTivov prefixed to the oration "Leptinem prcBsentem in judicio signal, non reum factum." Proleg. p. 152. ' Pausanias thus speaks of that change, i. 22, 4. ths e'lKova^ twv linreujv ouk ^X'" ara(j)'j}i elirelv eWe ol iraToi^ eiaiv ol ^€vo(pcovT09 eiTS d'Wtos eis evirpeTreiav ire-iroimxevaL. It has been thought that Pau- sanias used the above obscure expressions for fear of giving offence : for one of the above statues became an Agrippa; as the inscription on its base still indicates — the other probably an Augustus. But (I con- ceive) he had another meaning. The statue, be it remembered, remained the same; the inscription alone was altered. The statue was like an actor (see Dio. Chrys. i. 647.) playing successively different parts on the same stage. Hence Pausanias might well say, he could not tell very clearly who the statue really was. If the statue itself was to be believed, it was a son of Xenophon : if the inscription, an Agrippa. By recording this his dilemma, he tacitly censures the folly of the Athenians in thus conferring CHAP. XVII.] PRAXITELES. 143 spot at the entrance of the citadel, into Patricians of Rome, and changed even ^ Theraistocles and Miltiades into a Thracian and ItaHan conqueror. Another statue by Praxiteles, which stood at the gate of Athens, shared the same fate as that which is recorded in the above inscription : other examples were no doubt common. Probably his portraits in marble, above all others, owed this their alienation to their excellence. The following is on a pedestal, much defaced : It is the base of a statue erected by her relatives to an Athenian Virgin who had performed an honour- able office in the sacred processions, here in the Acropolis, ATAeHr TYXHI AnO AAIINIOS AI AN AIOZ TH N conferring honorary distinctions, whicli denoted nothing, but the weaknes5 of those who conferred them. Pausanias writing under the Antonines, had little to fear from indulging in sarcasm on AgTippa. Pliny satirized Augustus, and dedicated his satire to Trajan. Pausanias too (ii. 18.) says openly enough of a similar statue, t6v iirlypafxfi.a cx"VTa oSs ch] Avyou(TT09, 0pe(7Tt]v elvai \eyov(Tiv. ^ Pausan. i. 18, 3. Other instances at Athens of the same practice are recorded in Pans. i. 2. 4. (and Siebelis note.) i. 22. 4. Hence when Phaedrus said (Epil. lib. ii.) jEsopi ingenio statuam posuere Attici, Servumque collocarunt aslerna in basi, he wrote with a significant allusion to the practice of his times in tliis city : the epithet has been suspected without reason. Hence also perhaps it was that Theophrastus has put into the mouth of his flatterer the speech i) eiKiMV crov oixoia ecrTi. (Char. II.) 144 CANEPHORI. [ CHAP. xvn. eYTATEPA AN0EMIAN KAIO GEIOZ OYAniANOS KAIH MHTH PA lAYEn5. KAIKOZ0ENHZ KAI EPOHZAN With Good Auspices; Apollonius of Aphidnce, dedicates a Statue of his daughter Antheinia, having been a Canephoros ; her uncle Ulpianus, and her mother Diphilone dedicate it loith Mm, In the quinquennial priesthood of Hierocles of Phlya.^. I have here supplied the name of KaiKocr9evr]2 < W X Eh O w H o O w w o w H o w 2: Eh O W Q l-H w Eh o 1: .- ^ .8* -^ s ^ K 1,1 i 1^ cb U uj h u - o CJ < < Q. < CI c! I o h o h > o h u o < UJ W < < •e- z o < _ c: o I z o UJ N UJ CI Z _ CJ < — v^ u '-' 5 - o u :; ^ z o X < h < u O o c < < o K CJ I o h o h > o H I- LU _ UJ Id u O I UJ S u 5^ « 5^ nC> e « ^ -o r^ i. 1 <^ 'TS i S C ^ ^ < h UJ Z o a. UJ h UJ < i^ C - o h > o > o < < < UJ — ^ i ■ ^^ '^^-^ J - 2d h oi < h h I- S I ^ s 0UZ CLu uj Sb^ C|<- I.S.2 CHAPTER XVTTI. ATHENS. Temple of Thexeus. 'Opwfxev 0)? rov Ylapdevwva, outw koi to OtjcreTou a-navTa's TrpOCTKVI'OVVTa^. Plutarch de E.xsil. G07, 8. Every one, we see, adores the Temple of Theseus as well as the Parthenon. The Church of St Mark at Venice and the Temple of Theseus at Athens have several points of compari- son. They owe their origin to the operation of the same feelings. They are both at the same time Tem- ples and Tombs. In both cases the venerated ashes interred within them came from a distant region. The relics of Theseus, real or supposed, were brought by Cimon- from the isle of Skyros to the Peirseus : those of St Mark to the quay of Venice from Alex- andria. The latter were hailed on their arrival with the pageantry of a Venetian Carnival: the obsequies of Theseus were solemnized with a dramatic contest 2 Plutarch, v. Cimon. iii. p. liW. Reiske. k2 148 THESEUAI AND ST MARk's. [cHAP. XVIII. of ^schylus and Sophocles. The Hero and the Saint placed in their splendid mausoleums, each in his re- spective city, were revered as the peculiar guardians of those two Republics of the Sea. Theseus did not enjoy alone the undivided honours of his own temple. He admitted Hercules, the friend and companion of his earthly toils, to a share in his posthumous glory. He even ceded to him, with the best spirit of Athenian delicacy, the most honourable place in that fabric. On the eastern fa9ade of this temple all the ten metopes are occupied with the labours of Hercules, while only four, and those on the sides only, refer to the deeds of Theseus, The same disinterestedness is shewn in the selection of the subjects of the two friezes of the pronaos and posti- cum of the cella. Here, as before, Theseus has yielded to Hercules the most conspicuous spot at the very entrance of his own temple. This association of Hercules with the Athenian hero has been well illustrated by reference to a pa- rallel instance in a different department of art. What is done here by sculpture and architecture, Euripides has performed in poetry. He has blended together in the same spirit the deeds and glory of these two ' It has been hence argued, that at the time of the erection of the Theseum, the labours of Hercules were not twelve but ten. This might have been a just inference had it been possible to have introduced twelve metopes on the frieze of a hexastyle portico, such as that of this temple. CHAP. XVIII.] HERCULES AND THESEUS. 149 heroes and ^friends. The Hercules Furens of Euripi- des is a Temple of Theseus in verse. It may be added, that the treatment of the same subject both in the temple and the tragedy was pro- bably the result of the same state of national feeling between the two Grecian states, of which these two heroes were regarded as the respective representa- tives. The union of the Athenian Theseus with the Theban Hercules was doubtless thus expressed, at a time when Athens and Thebes were themselves united by a bond of national amity : and when the former •state at least believed it to be expedient that this union should be permanent. This temple therefore possesses an interest not only from the beauty of its structure, but as a con- secration of heroic friendship, and an expression of political attachment. To my companions and myself individually it has a personal interest which I camiot forbear recording here with a feeling of gratitude. We have now lodged near it,— almost beneath its shade,— for more than two months ; during this time it ha^ been our near- est neighbour. - Here. fur. 1323. Theseus addresses Hercules just dying: 150 TEMPLE OF THESEUS. [cHAP. XVlII. Such is the integrity of its structure, and the distinctness of its details, that it requires no descrip- tion beyond that which a few glances might supply. Its beauty defies all : its solid yet graceful form is indeed admirable ; and the loveliness of its colouring is such, that, from the rich mellow hue which the marble has now assumed, the Temple looks as if it had been quarried, not from the bed of a rocky mountain, but from the golden light of an Athenian sun-set. CHAPTER XIX. ATHENS. Tower of the Winds, ^-c. vlaffi S' tieXiuio TaXavTevuvat KeXevdov^. Anthol. T. II. p. 263. Jacobs. There are four other buildings which will be men- tioned here, as completing our notices of the decorated edifices, belonging to the period of its independence, which still survive at Athens. These are the Tower of the Winds, the Choragic Monument of Lysicrates, the Temple of Jupiter Olympius, and the Panathenaic Stadium. They stand in the above order, and nearly in a line, drawn from the Temple of Theseus toward the south-east. The Tower of the Winds, If we consider its object, will appear to have been well placed. It stands near the centre of the site of the new Agora, with the formation of which it was probably nearly contem- porary. In form it is an octagon. Each of the eight sides faces the direction of one of the eight winds into which the Athenian compass was di- vided : and both the name and the ideal form of 152 TEMPLE OF THE WINDS. [cHAP. XIX. that Wind is sculptured on the side which faces its direction. It thus served to the Winds themselves as a marble mirror. The names of the Winds being ascertained from these inscriptions, and the Winds themselves being there represented, with their appropriate attributes, we are thus presented with an interesting picture of the influence of each wind on the climate of Attica. This octagonal tower is to the Athenian Winds what Spensers Shepherd's Calendar is to the British months. All the eight figures of the Winds are represented as winged and floating through the air in a position nearly horizontal. Only two, the two mildest. Libs and Notus, have the feet bare ; none have any cover- ing to the head. Beginning at the ' north side, the observer sees the figure of Boreas, the wind to which that side corresponds, blow^ing a twisted cone, equipped in a thick and sleeved mantle, with folds blustering in the air, and high-laced buskins : as the spectator moves eastw^ard, the wind on the next side of the octagon presents him with a plateau containing olives, being the productions to which its influence is favour- able : the East-wind exhibits to his view a profusion of flowers and fruits : the next wind Eurus, with stern and scowling aspect, his right arm muflled in his mantle, threatens him with a hurricane : the South- ' The order is this; Boreas, Kaikias, Apeliotes, Eurus. Notus, Libs. Zcphyrus, Skiron. CHAP. XIX.] ATHENIAN WINDS. 153 wind, Notus, is ready to deluge the ground from a swelling urceus which he holds in his bared arms, with a torrent of shower. The next wind, driving before him the form of a ship, promises a rapid voyage. Zephyrus floating softly along, showers into the air a lapful of flowers ; while his inclement neigh- bour bears a bronze vessel of charcoal in his hands, in order to dispel the cold, which he himself has caused. The roof of the octagon was surmounted by a Triton turning on an axis: this was the vane. Nor did this tower serve only as an index to the winds, and as a picture of their character; it was a chro- nometer also. On its eight sides, beneath the figures of the winds, are traced horary lines, which with the styles of the gnomons above them formed eight dials. This tower, placed in the public square, was the city- clock of Athens. By it the affairs of the inhabitants were regulated. The law-courts sat, and merchants transacted their business, from its dictation. If, too, we may trust the ^ comic descriptions of that class of 2 Eubul. Athen. 8. c. Menander. Ath. 243. a. Arist. Eccles. 052. where Schol. TO -jraXaiov KaXoZvTf^ es Selirvov Kal KoXovixevonrapeanixaivovTo Tnv cTKiiv ovd' viroTnpV'rew9 ouas cTct'oi/s occurs in I>iog. Lacrt. ix. 10. 154 DIALS. [ CHAP. XIX, individuals, we may imagine the ravenous parasite watching with ludicrous impatience the progress of the shadow cast by the sun over these lines on its marble face, in order, OTav t] ceKaTTovv to GToiyeiov \nrapov ywpeiv eiri ceiirvov. When the shade on the dial has corrie to ten feet, to go to a sumptuous supper. Rome for many centuries possessed either no dials, or ill-constructed ones. But at Athens time, if not better spent, was at least measured with more diligence. For in addition to its external provisions, there was a water-clock in the inside of this tower, which served in cloudy weather as a substitute for the dial and the sun. The line of similar fabrics, of which the small circular building of the most graceful Corinthian pro- portions, called the Choragic Monument of Lysicrates, is the only surviving relic, must have possessed great interest, both from their object and execution \ They were a series of temples forming a street. These * Pausan. I. 20, 1. to-Tii/ bo6f vaol dewv /.leydXoi, Kai a-(f)ioriu efpetrWiKaai Tpiirooe^ But the vaol were not /xeydXoi, as this surviving fabric shews; there- fore it has been proposed to insert ov before that word. Vet even then is the difEcuhy removed ? Houses become a street, not by being great or not great, but by being continuous. The word METAAOI should there- fore, I think, be altered into METAAAOI (Theocr. i. 834. has the form evaWa) or METAAAHAOI, i.e. one after another, in a line. Compare Plato CHAP. XIX.] STREET OF THIPODS, 155 temples were surmounted by finials which supported the Tripods gained by victorious Choragi in the neigh- bouring Theatre of Bacchus, and here dedicated by them to that deity, the patron of dramatic repre- sentations. Hence the Hne formed by these temples was called the Street of Tripods. From the inscriptions engraved on the archi- traves of these temples, which recorded the names of the victorious parties, and the year in which the victory was gained, the dramatic chronicles, or di- dascalise, were mainly compiled. Thus these small fabrics served the purposes at the same time of Fasti, Trophies and Temples. What a host of soul- stirring thoughts must have started up in the mind of a sensitive Athenian as he walked along this Street ? Plato Gorg. 472. a. TpiiroSe^: ec^egijs eirTwrei ei/ Atoi/uo-to), speaking of this same street. Connected with the Dionysiac Theatre on the west and this street of the Tripods on the east was the Temple of Dionysus. At this spot I find the following inscription : RAEIITAINON ^HKAEOY^ KE<|)AAH0EN H rVNH nAEI5TI£ KAI H OYTATHP iflSINIKH PXONTA TENOMENON AIONYXI2! ANEOHKAN And connected with the street of Tripods the following : TIMOAHMOZ TIMOAHMOY n Al AXIN EN I KA The inscription on the Monument of Lysicrates is on the casfern part of its curved architrave : the street therefore ran on that side of it. 156 JUPITER OLYMPIUS. [cHAP, XIX. The Temple of Jupiter Olympius was one of the first conceived and the last executed of the sacred monuments of Athens. It seemed as if Athenian architects were not to be permitted to realize in architecture, any more than their philosophers were in philosophy, the idea which was due to the majesty of the king and father of the gods. The building of this temple went along with the course of the national existence of Athens : Athens ceased to be independent before the Temple of Jupiter was com- pleted. It was reserved to a Roman emperor, Had- rian, to finish the work. This gigantic fabric stood therefore on its vast site, as a striking proof of the power of Rome exerted at a distance from Rome on the Athenian soil. It is hardly possible to conceive where and how the enormous masses have disappeared of which this temple was built. Its remains are now reduced to a few columns which stand together at the south- east angle of the great platform which was once planted as it were by the long files of its pillars. To compare great things with small, they there look like the few remaining chess-men, which are driven into the corner of a nearly vacant chess-board, at the conclusion of a game. CHAPTER XX. ATHENS. The Stadhim. XafXTret Be a-acptj': aperd 61/ TE '^vfxvoTai (Traoiuii ev T dairilolov-noiaiv ovXlrai': Spo/ioic. Pindar. Isth. u 30. The Stadmm of Athens was the most remarkable momtment on the south side of the IHssus. Here a sloping bank runs parallel to the river: and in this slope a semi-elliptical hollow, facing the north, has been scooped out of the soil, of somewhat more than 'six hundred feet in length, and at right angles to the river. This was the Athenian Stadium. Its shelv- ing margins were once cased with seats of white mar- ble : it is now a long and grass-gi-own hollow retiring into the hill-side. The concave extremity of the Stadium, which is its farthest point from the Ilissus, is somewhat of a hio-her level than that which is nearer to it. The rater started from a point at the lower extremity, I The average length of the Stadium was 600 Grecian feet (i^g .X.'e,a), equal to about 612 English. The interior of the Atheman Stadium is found to measure 630 English feet. The extent of the course itself cannot now be precisely ascertained; but it was necessa- rily something less than the length of the interior. 158 STADIUM AND PLATO. [cHAP. XX. (a0ecrts)', and having completed one course in a straight line (^^o'/uo?, or ard^Loi'), turned round the point of curvature {KafxTTTrip) at the higher extremity, and thus descended in a line parallel to that of his ascent till he ^ arrived at the goal (/SaX/S/?), which was a point a little to the east of that from which he had started : thus he accomplished a double course (^/ai/Xos). It was this inclination in the bed of the Stadium, which suggested the expressions of ^ Plato in a passage which has a peculiar reference to this spot. In com- paring the transactions of life to those of the Stadium, he asks, whether the ultimate results of both have not also some points for comparison : ov;^ o\ luev ^eivoi Te Kai aoiKoiy he enquires, cpwaiv oTrep o\ opofxe^s ocroL av Oecoatv ev airo rcov kutw awo de twu avot) fit] ; TO fieu TrpwTov o^ew^ ai^aTrrjowacu, reXev- TftJ/'Te? ce KaTayeXacTTot yiyvovr ai, to (vtci ewi Twv wiJiwv €^ovT€s Kai aaT€(pavcDToi airoTpe'vovTe'i ; Do not those wily and unjust persons fare like runners in the Stadium^ who run well indeed from its lower 1 Dindorf. Soph. Elect. 606. ^ Soph. Elect. 686. itrcJcas t?7 dc^eaei to. TepfiuTa, 3 It has been supposed that this Panathenaic Stadium was not con- structed till the administration of the orator Lycurgus, about 350 b. c. But the assertion of the pseudo-Plutarch (Vitt. x. Oratt.) on which this supposition rests, is merely to this effect ; that Lycurgus completed {k^eipydcraTo) the Stadium, by constructing a podium (KjoijTrts), and levelling the bed {xapdSpa) of the Stadium. Sophocles would never have ventured to make an Athenian charioteer victorious over nine com- petitors at Delphi (as he does in his Electra, 707 sq.) had Athens not possessed a Stadium in his time: (see also Pindar Ol. xiii. 50.) and there is no evidence of there having been ever more than one at Athens. CHAP. XX.] DRAMATIC ILLUSTRATIONS. 159 end, but not so from its tipper extremitij ? at first they shoot forth impetuoiishj, hut at the end of the race theij are smothered with ridicule ; their ears flagging on their shoulders, and they themselves slinking off uncrowned. The chaplets of victory of which he spccaks, and the profusion of flowers which we know, from other * sources, to have been showered on the heads of the successful competitors in the race, by the spectators in the seats above them, had probably been recently gathered for this purpose from the blooming banks of the neighbouring Ilissus. It is observable, that the measure of time usually adopted in narratives on the Athenian stage is bor- rowed from the Stadium : tjlt] ^' av eXKwu KwXov eK-rrXeOpov cpo^ov rayi)? /Ba^tcrxy? Tepiuovwu av ijirreTo. EuRiP. Med. 1151. Now would a runner swift six hundred feet Have traversed on the course, and reached the goal, is an expression used by a messenger to give the audience a distinct idea of the interval of time after which an event occurred: and for a similar purpose the audience is referred to the same standard of time in the recital of another dramatic intelligencer: Oaaaou ^e fiupcrav e^eSeipev i) cpofxeu^ Siaaov^ ^iavXov<; 'nnriov^ dirjvvae. EuRiP. Electr. 825. •• See Phot. Lex. v. -n-epi(iy«/jo>fi/oi, and Ruhnk, Tim. p. 21(>. 1j60 dramatic illustrations. [chap. XX. He flayed the hide more quickly than a runner Tivice climbs the tall arch of his double course. This practice is, I think, to be explained by the consideration of the fact, that the Stadium of Athens from wliich these ^ illustrations are derived, was nearly in the front of the spectators as they sat and listened to those narratives in the theatre. Being thus visible to the audience, the Stadium was properly appealed to by the dramatist, as a sort of theatrical chronometer. The number of courses which could be traversed by a swift runner in that Stadium during the occurrence of any given event, would thus give a clear idea of its duration. They would be like degrees of a visible diaP traversed by the shadow cast upon its face. ' The Stadium is no doubt referred to above in the term e/cirXeO/ios Sp6^o < CO O z CI o O h z < c! UI < < CO H CO O L. — UJ z _ a < Z C! > UJ < UJ H I < o < c o Q. UJ - < a. < < ui < [To /act page 16(1. 1 n nooonNTrAox ♦yahz nnAiKHi EYNiipiAi AK^M^lON a fcro Tol JeTra) KAEOYZ AlANTIAOZ 0YAHS njlAIKHI SYNilPlAI AIAYAON KAEOYZ HTOAEMAIAOZ <1>YAHZ SYN AZniAl AIAYAON EN OHAOrZ EK TflN mn EUN AirEIAOZ *YAHZ EK Tu N I n n EnN in nOOOflNTI AOZ YAHZ EK TflN ^YAAPXnN OOZ nrOAEMAIAOZ ♦YAHZ N EK TfiN I n n EflN Y OIN El AOX ♦YAHX EK TiiN YAAPXnN KEKPOniAOZ YAHZ OEHN AAM n AAI AOZ *YAHZ EK THN ZE Yr ITHN APMATI POAEMIZTHPin nTOAEMAIAOZ it>YAHI APMATI T E AEIill Al A NTIAOZ *YAHZ Al AY AO N AEONTIAOZ *YAHZ AK AM n 10 N AEONTIAOZ *YAHZ AHHNHI nOA t M I ZTH PI A I AEONTIAOZ 4>YAHZ innoofiNTiAoz yahz A K A M n I O N HTOAEMAIAOZ *YAHZ EK TUN innEHN I H n il nOAYAPOMii Al rEI AOZ 'fYAHZ n noo o^iiN BAZIAEilZ ANTIOXOY EHI'fANOYZ APM ATI nn Al Kii AAEH AN APEYZ APMATI TEAEI nr AAOAIKEYZ TilN nPOZ OAAAZZHI nn A I KilN Z M YN AIOZ APMATI TEA Eini BAZIAEnZ ANTIOXOY Eni*ANOYZ EAEYZINinN AMMnNIOZ AMMnNlOY Z lEYTEl ETBIBAIilN KEKPOn I AOZ *YAHZ AO A I X ON AKA MP ION KEKPOn I AOZ «YAHZ ' A K A M n ION K * APMATI nOAEM IZTH Pint OY KEKPOniAOZ ^YAHZ OAYM n I Kn I The different species of courses in the Stadium, mentioned here, are as follows: ( 1 ) The cTToSioK or araV»">», one course (^) So^'X" '"'I'lot ; twenty-four ' Boeok. from the starting-place to the kq/itt- ^^^- P- 703. T»Jp. Pindar. 01. xi. 6+. They are well described by Tzetzes ,„. s, ^ ^ Chil. p. 22. Kiessling. Comp. Pausan. (2) dmeXos ; two. ,.. , , .j , ^ r a n- n. J ni. 11. a. V. 8. 6. See DiBsen. Pmdar. (3) 5ia«\ot Jn-mos ; four. MuBg. Eur. '■ P- ^^7. on dw^vtt, (of mttlet) iroiXajK Elect. 825. avtuap'ii, apfj.a TeXetoi/ ; of apfia iro\€fitiT- Wj,. Tjjflioy. See Aristopb. Nub. 28. Herodot. io\tj(;o-(ai/ o^lfoncu, tt ov Kepafxemov, 'Ayopuv, AtKuaTtipia, Ttju Ka\t]v 'Ak poiroXiv, ra? Se/^r/w? Qeai; Alciphr. Epist. Menand. p. 346. Meineke. Where shall I find the Pnyx, where the Cerameiciis, the Agora, the Tribunals, the fair Acropolis, the Temple of the Furies f In looking at the bare site of the Athenian city, with a view to observe the prominent physical fea- tures of Athenian topography, the following objects present themselves. The central rock of the Acro- polis, declining westward toward the Areopagus : the bed of rocky soil re-appearing in the cliff of the Are- opagus : the Areopagus shelving downward, at its western edge, and after a narrow dip converging to meet a range of rock coming towards it from the south-east. On this latter range were the Pnyx and Museum. The angular valley which was formed by this convergence, being thus fenced by hills, except at the south-east, where it is bounded by the Ilissus, offered an advantageous site for the future city of which Hhe rock of the Acropolis was the citadel. 2 Thuc. II. 14. TO irpb Tovrov (Theseus) aKpoiroXi^ i] vvv ovaa TToXts i]", K(ti TO vir' auT»)i/ Trpds j/o'toi' ndXiffTci riTpannivov. 168 MAP OF THE CITY. [cHAP. XXII. In this valley accordingly, as we find, and on that rock, stood the most ancient part of the Athe- nian city. Here were its oldest temples. Here, in a word, was Athens, and to this part was its splendour restricted, until the age of Themistocles. In that age existed a public monument, which still remains. This is the Pnyx. Its site will assist us in illustrating and confirming the positions which we have assigned to other buildings necessarily con- nected with it. It is evident that the site of the Pnyx would have been so selected that it should be of easy ac- cess to the people who were to assemble there. It would therefore be placed near the Agora. Accord- ingly we find that the Agora was on the north of the Pnyx in the valley immediately beneath it. Again, the political connection subsisting between the two assemblies, that of the Senate and that of the People, 9,nd the transmission of legislative enactments from the senate of Five Hundred to the Popular Assembly, would seem to furnish a presumption that the Senate- house would be placed in the neighbourhood of the Pnyx. For a similar reason we should infer, that as the existing laws were frequently appealed to by the orators in the Pnyx, the depository of those laws would be of easy access from that place. The facts are so'. Both the senate-house (BouXeuTrjfjiov) and ' Paiisan. i. 3. o. sqq. and i. 5. 1. CHAP. XXII.] THE AGORA. 169 that depository (the MrjTfjwov), as can be shewn from Pausanias, were placed in the valley of the Agora below the Pnyx. The council of the Areopagus was called the " Higher Senate" (>) aixv fiovXri). Hence we should infer that the loicer senate met at no great distance from it. Accordingly, the Senate-house was at the foot of the Areopagus hill. Again, the Pry- tanes, as presiding in the Pnyx, and as members of the senate, would have their official residence near to both. Their residence (the QoXo^) was so. It was close to the senate-house. The altar of the Twelve Gods was the milliarium aureum' , from which the roads of Attica were measured. It would therefore stand in some central spot, as did its counterpart at Rome : and in fact, the altar in question stood in the Athenian Agora, probably in its centre. A little to the east of the Tholus stood the statues of the Ten Heroes (the Ettwwiulol) who gave names to the ten Athenian tribes. To these statues the programmes of laws were attached for public inspection, before they were discussed in the assembly. The situation of these statues illustrates that practice. They stood^ in the " See Boeck Inscr. n. r)'25. Time. vi. 54. Aristoph. Aves, lOOS. ^ They stood on the eastern verge of the Agora on a platform, pro- bably a t'l/xiuvKXiov, called opX'i'rTpa. Tim. Lex. Plat, in v. p. I'Jfi. and Phot. p. 351. TrpwTov eKXi'id}] ei> ttj dyopu. It is to this orchestra, and not, I think, to that of the Theatre, that Diocleides alludes, (Andoc. Myst. p. 112. Bekker,) when he asserts that he saw by the light of the moon, when standing in the Lena-um, the three hundred men Avhom he accuses of having mutilated the Henna;, as they were descending from the Odeum, and going towards the Orchestra. He implies that they were just at the eastern verge of the Agora, and were going to cross it 170 ROUTE FROM THE CITADEL [cHAP. XXII. Agora, in the centre of the political quarter of Athen^J. Mars, at the southern foot of his own hill, occupied a temple between the statues of the Ten Heroes on the west, and those of Harraodius and Aristo- geiton on the east : and thus we are brought to the western foot of the Acropolis, at which point, as has been before noticed, these two statues stood. We return to the Metroum, and proceed westward from that point. Near this temple to the Mother of the Gods was that of the Father-Deity of the Athe- nians — of Apollo Patrous. It was on the north-east of the Metroum. To the north-west of the same building was the spot chosen by Plato' for the scene of Euthy- plu'o's dialogue with Socrates : the subject of which was in unison with the character of that place. It was the porch in which sat the Basileus or King-Archon who took cognizance of religious suits, and from him was called the Stoa Basileios^ Parallel and contigu- it toward the Stoa of the Ilermce at its other extremity, which was their main object. * Plat. IMenexen. init. 2 Harpocrat. v. Bao-tXeios Stoc. See also Plato. Charmid. p. 55. Heindorf. The speech of Praxagora in Ecclesiaz. 685. is a very de- scriptive one, and replete with topographical information ; B. Ta ^c- K\i]pwTi)pia -TTol Tp€'i//6is ; n. cts TjjV dyopdv KaTad)j(7w, KUTCt (TT))crao-ot -Tra/o' 'Ap/ioSiw K\i]p(oo-u) TrdvTas, eojs dv eJooJs 6 Xaxt^v dTriij yaipuiv ev biroiio ypdp.fJ.aTi SeLTrvet, Kal Kfipv^w Toii^ CK Tov pij-r' ek Tiji' crToiai/ dKoKovdeiv T-(ji/ jSaoriXetoif oenrui'jaovTa?, to Sh drJT eis ti]v Trapd rauTtji/. The OTiTa cannot refer to the Theseum, which is not a Stoa, as has been supposed ; but it refers to the Stoa of Zeus Eleutherios, which stood parallel to the Stoa Basileios, or irnpa TnvTiji'. (Harpocr. in /3rtofj.d^oi>Tai, Also the Dipylum was the communication from the outer to the inner Cerameicus : hence Plutarch called the latter t6u euros tov AnrvXov KepafxeiKov. Plut. Syll. T. III. p. 104. That tlie Panathenaic procession entered the city from the outer Cerameicus, appears from Thuc. vi. 57- It therefore passed through Dipylum. CHAP. XXII.] ROUTE FROM DIPYLUM. 173 The Dipylum led to Eleusis ; it led also to Co- lonus, and it was sometimes used as an entrance by persons coming from the ^Peirseus. The position to be assigned to it must satisfy these three conditions : it has also been shown to have been near the Pompeium, The Pompeium was near the Stoa of Zeus Eleutherios, which stood on the western verge of the Agora ; and the Agora was a circular area lying in the hollow between the Areopagus and the Pnyx. From these premises I should infer that the Dipylum stood in the hollow to the north of the hill on which the Pnyx stands. Hence it might be said to stand in the ^mouth of the city, as it is described to be. The Dipylum was the gate which served as the communication from the Inner Cerameicus to that which was outside the city. The statues of Harmo- dius and Aristogeiton which stood at the western foot of the citadel, were also contained in the wide range of the Cerameicus : hence therefore all the buildings which we have noticed in this chapter, since they lie between these two limits, that is, between the Dipy- lum on the north-west, and these two statues on the east, were comprised within the ^ Inner Cerameicus. - Polyb. XVI, 25. Attains passes from the Peirasus through Dipy- lum. That the Dipylum was the main entrance from the Peiraeus is evident from Lucian Navig. 17. 24. ^ T. Liv. XXXI. 24. A Dipylo accessit. Porta ea velut in ore urbis posita major aliquanto patentiorque quam ceteras, est. * It must not be forgotten, that when writers speak of the inner Cerameicus, they use a term which was not known at Athens till many years 174 OLD AGORA ABSORBED [cHAP. XXII. The site occupied by the Agora coincided with a part of that district which was in later times called the Inner Cerameicus : it extended indeed to the same point eastward, for the same two statues which stood in the Cerameicus are often mentioned as existing in the Agora : but in ^a westerly direction it did not reach to above half the distance to which the Cerameicus extended. The Agora seems to have been bounded on the north-west by the narrow pass- age which lies between the Areopagus and the western range of rocky elevations. In this passage was pro- bably the gate of the Agora. Of the public buildings, antecedent to the age of Pericles, there were but few on the northern side of the Areopagus. The ~Leocorium was one of the most ancient. It stood to the north of the Agora, on the way to the Temple of Theseus. That temple is a remarkable point in this quarter of the city. It was one of the earliest buildings, of any public im- years after the Peloponnesian War. Then there was but one Cerameicus, that namely outside the walls. The adoption of the term inner Ceramei- cus, and the foundation of the neto Agora, were probably contemporary. The old Agora, whose splendours could only remind the Athenians of the degradation to which they were reduced, was then disused : its very name was merged in the more general one of Cerameicus. Hence it is only by later writers that the statues of Harmodius and Aristogeiton are described as in the Cerameicus ; by earlier authors they are placed in the Agora, ' The Leocorium was in ncaw tw KepafxeiKot, but was on the verge of the agora. See Ilarpocrat. and Hesych. s. v. AewKopiov. - Thuc. VT. /■!(). CHAP. XXII.] BY NEW CERAMEICUf*. 1*5 portance, erected in this district. The elevation of the ground no doubt recommended it as a site for a tem- ple ; and its tumular form might have strengthened its claim, when that temple was to be also a tomb. It may be observed also that Cimon who dis- covered at ^'Skyros the remains of Theseus, and con- veyed them thence to Athens, was then enjoying the greatest popularity at Athens. Perhaps therefore a reference to that quarter of the city, with which Cimon was connected', might have influenced the choice of that particular site on which the temple now stands. Cimon possessed a place of domestic burial near that part of Athens which was called Melite. It may, I think, be shown that the quarter was called Melite in which the Temple of Theseus now stands^. 3 Plutarch. Cimon. iii. p. 189. Reiske. ^ Cimon soing as it seems from his house to the citadel passes through the Cerameicus. Plutarch, in. p. 181. = The -rrvXcu UeXcTioe,. (Marcellin. v. Thuc. p. ix.) were^Trpo tov daTeo, (Herod. VI. 103.) i.e. north of the city; (so Herodotus says Trpo -rr,v dKpo^6\.o., for, north of the Citadel, viii. 53). Melite also jomed C;olonus. (Schol. Av. 998.) Colonus was on the north side of the Agora. Hence the northern and southern limits of I\I elite are determined : between these the Theseum stands. That the Theseum stood in INIelite is rendered still more probable by the fact, that in ISIelite stood the IMelanippeion, or MeXaviTnrov -rod 0»i(retos vpvov, and also by the promise of Theseus to Hercules quoted above {S6f.ov': -re Saicru, Xpwd-ru,. T- aM-i^ M^V".), which was I conceive realized in the inau- guration of Hercules into I\Ielite near the Theseum (comp. Ar. Ran. 502) or, in the mythological language of Athens, in his receivmg Mc me in marriage (Schol. Ran. f.02.) Thus the Theseum being in Melite, Theseus was associated with his friend and his son. 176 COLOXUS^ MELITE, [cHAP. XXlI. A part of the city which adjoined Mehte, and which in consequence was sometimes^ confounded with it, was termed Colonus. Colonus was bounded by the northern extremity of the Agora : whence it was sometimes distinguished by the title Agorseus, in order to contrast it with the more celebrated suburban Co- lonus which Sophocles has immortalized, and which was a mile to the north-west of the city and near the Academy. In the urban Colonus stood the Temple of ^Hephaestus. The name and site of this temple lead us to infer that it was the goal proposed to the racers who ran with the lighted torches, having started from the outer Cerameicus and running through the Dipylum into the city. Assuming the position of Melite to be accu- rately fixed, we are enabled to determine some other positions of importance in Athenian topography. The district called Coele lay between Melite and the city- wall : and in the wall itself was ^the gate called the Melitensian, as leading into Melite. This gate must have been on the north-west of the city, a little to the north-east of the site assigned above to Dipylum. Here then we may imagine to have been the Ceme- ' As Harp. v. ^upvaaKeXov. iv MeXiVj) : and Harpocr, v. KoKtov' iTa^: KoXtovos, TrXijaiov t?;s ayopas, ev6a to ^upva-aKetov. Cp. Schol. Av. 9'J8. The name Eipva-aKeTov seems to survive at Athens in that of the Church of St Thomas Vrysaki, on which see Pittaky's Athenes, p. 62. and p. 468. - Harpocrat. v. KoXtoj/tVas. ^ Marcellin. v. Thuc. ix. Herod, vi. lOa. CHAP. XXII.] CCELE, COLLYTUS. 177 tery^ in which tlie family of Cimon reposed, here Cimon himself, and his Olympian coursers, and his re- latives Miltiades and Thucydides, were interred. This Cemetery was in the outer Cerameicus, the most beautiful suburb, and the most honourable burial-place of Athens. The positions which we have thus attempted to fix, are illustrated and confirmed by incidental testi- mony in ancient wi-iters. Cephalus, in the ■'Parmen- ides of Plato, in his way from the Agora to the outer Cerameicus where Parmenides was lodging, calls upon Antipho to request him to introduce him to Parmenides. Now Antipho lived in Melite, that is, in the quarter between the Agora and the outer Ce- rameicus. The visit therefore to Antipho it was very natural for him to make, if Melite stood where we have placed it, and very unnatural for Plato to imagine, if Melite did not. In a speech written by "Demosthenes, a plaintiff m a case of assault detailed the following circum- stances. He was taking his walk in the evening, together with a friend, in the Agora; he meets the defendant near the Leocorium, which was at the ^ Herod. VI. 103. Cp. ^lian. H. A. C. xii. 40. Marcellin. v. Thiic. IX. which passages afford an additional proof that JMelite was where we have placed it: Herodotus places the cemetery just outside the walls north of Coele : yElian, in the exterior Cerameicus: JMarcellinus, out- side the gates leading into Melite. Hence Coele was contiguous to the southern limit of the outer Cerameicus, and Jlelite to that of Coele. * Plat. Parmenid. p. 127. a. c. " Demosth. c. (^on. p. 1258. 25, M 178 COLONUS, MELITE, COLLYTUS. [cHAP. XXII. northern verge of the Agora : the defendant passes northward, in his way toward Mehte : the plaintiff pursues his walk : he takes a turn to a 'temple at the southern end of the Agora, and is returning back towards the Leocorium : he is there met and attacked by the defendant, attended by a party of friends whom he brings with him from Melite, where they had been drinking together. This incident tallies exactly with the results of our previous enquiry. Adjoining Melite on the east was the quarter called Collytus. As the limits of Colonus sometimes trenched upon Melite on the south, so on the east were they sometimes invaded by Collytus. It was necessary to obviate this confusion between these two last by a distinct land-mark, ^ which was erected on the line of their mutual contact. Melite was pro- bably jealous of such a confusion ; for the least respectable quarter in the whole of Athens was Col- lytus. Hence it seems that Demosthenes^, when he ' TO IONIZ HPATO MOY2A OYAE KYKAnnEIAZ XEIPOS EA AZZE BIA. Nor Cyclopean hand loith labour strong This pile did raise, nor Amphionian song. I should conjecture from the style of this distich that the building on which it appears had been the school of some recent sophist rather than the Stoic Pcecile. In fact, the Poecile really stood at the northern entrance of the Agora. A building decorated with the splendid representations of Athenian heroism, as the Poecile was, would naturally be placed in the most illustrious part of the city. iEschines too, refers his hearers to the Poecile for the memorials of their ancestral glory ; and he adds, that they have only to descend in imagination into the 'Agora to visit them there. Hence too, as standing in the most splendid quarter of Athens, the Poecile was chosen as ' yEschin. c. Ctes. p. 1615. TrpotreXQeTe tT) ciavoiu eis Tfji/ TloLKiXnv, aTravTwii yap u/zmi/ tiuj/ /caXdiy epyoiv tu virofivi\ixaTa Lv t?7 dyopa liviiKeiTui.. CHAP. XXri,] PLAN OK ATHENS. 181 the spot in which the Spartan shields taken at ''Pylos should be suspended as trophies. I should place the Poecile at the northern en- trance of the ^ Agora; for it stood near the Temple of Hephaestus, which was in the urban Colonus : and also near the ^Hermes Agorseus, who guarded the entrance of the Agora. Thus have we now surveyed the principal objects of Athenian topography. From the scattered notices of antiquity of which we are cognizant, and from the labours of others in the same field, we have at- tempted to fit together, as harmoniously as we are able, the separate pieces of the dislocated map. How much of labour, and perhaps of error, we might have been spared, had we been present for a single hour at the Macedonian entertainment, at which the Athenian orator Demades, ^Trpeafievaa^ irapa (I>t'\t7r7ror, /cat epo/xevou {too (BaaiXetc^) iroTatrai e'laiv a'l AOrjvai, eir\ t^s Tpairet^rj^ avTa7<; i'fw\, tjd'to) jpacpfj^;, avv ovpt'ui tw koXttm, ^pafxeTv oi Ttjv vavi', ov-^^ vTTO^vyiwv dyovTOJv, a'/W' e'7nyetoi<: f.KrjX'^va:^ vTToXiadaivovaav, €k KepafxeiKOv dpacrav x^Xia KwVj/, dwa to Tad, (i. e. in this form, \ ), 5t6Te^.eTO Oe ^o\. XdKL^ o Tf/s A0»i/as 7r67r\o9 eh towOto ax^lfia £>^^""^ ^«' tTro^Treu- „ev. Strattis meant to say, that the crowd draws the peplos along, hauling it up with ropes to the top of its masts like a sail. (Smce writing the above, I have found the following note on the article in Harpocration, in Dobree's Adversaria, i. p. 589 : ^'To-rreXov. Stratt. Lege- rim TO.. l (jiepeiv ^ui t>ji dyopa^. Com- pare Himerius quoted by Schneider Xen. Mag. Eq. c. 3. and Menander p. 165. Meineke. * Suid. V. TTETrXos — MCX/"' '^"i' E^evmviov. CHAP. XXIIl.] TROJAN HOUSE. 187 point of curvature in its course. It now tends west- ward, -^coasting the northern rocks of the Acropohs. It ascends the Acropohs itself by the western entrance through the marble portals of the Propytea. Here the procession halts. The Peplos is then carried to its destination in the Temple of Minerva Polias. There is, I believe, a direct allusion to this move- ment and destination of the Peplos, in the minute description by Euripides of the progress and dedica- tion to Minerva of the wooden horse in the Acropolis of Troy. (Troad. 517.) dva ^' e^oaaev Xew^ TjOwa%s atro Trer pa^ (jradek- iraaa ^e yevva (l^fivy(^v TT/OO? TTuXa? (OfJuaOrj. Tt'? om e/3a veaviowv Ti's ov yepaioi e/c cofxwv ; KXivarov ^ dn(pifi6\oiiXo'yopo9 Tijv tiiaraiav, Or (the eastern ;\Iegaric boundary) aVd lad/xov fJiexpi HvOLov Slj']K61v (p'litrii;. See Miiller Dorians, i. p. 267. At Athens, in the church of TTra/ra'yTi) (200 yards below the grotto of Pan under the Acropolis), I find a fragment of an inscription which perhaps came from the Pythium of which we have first spoken. STEAN Hip6v5€ Koi TO es Yleipaia — the last words are well added to distinguish these pair of jLiaKpd -rei'x'i from that pair which afterwards bore the same name. 2 After B.C. 445. (^schin. tt. tt. p. 51. 57- Andoc. p. 24. 23.) which exactly corresponds with the time in which Pericles began to have the direction of public affairs. Clinton, F. H. B. c. 444. CHAP. XXIV.] THREE WALLS. 191 and under the direction of Callicrates, a third was erected lying longitudinally between them, and con- necting the southern point of the Peirajus with the city, then this third wall, together with the northern, seem to have appropriated that title. ^ These two then became peculiarly the Long Walls, Ta fxuKpa Tci^rj; for they were the two longest; and they were naturally connected as a pair^ abutting as they both did on the Peiraeus : they were strictly the legs of the Peirwus, ^YleipaiKo. aKcX}] ; for the other wall ended at Phalerum. Hence it is that the middle wall, and not, as might perhaps have been anticipated, the Phaleric one, was termed the southern wall, {to votiov xeT^os); not because it was the most southern of them all, for that it was not, but because it was the more southern of the two Peiraic walls : for it was con- sidered with respect to the other Peiraic wall alone, which was termed the northern wall\ (to (iopeiou re^yo^.) Hence these Peiraic walls are called the legs, (jKeXii as being two, and two only : hence we 3 Thuc. II. 13. TO fxe-ia'^v Tov t€ fxaKpov Kcd tov ^aXiipiKov. The Phaleric wall had therefore now ceased to be regarded as a, fxaKpoi/ T-eryos. '' Liv. XXXI. 20. IMurus qui brachiis duobus Peirceum Athenis jungit. 5 This wall was the most important of the three : it was the only one that was guarded in the Peloponnesian war. (Thuc. ii. 13. xo e^iodev.) It abutted on the city-wall to the north of the Theseum, not far from the IMelitensian gate. Compare Plutarch. Themist. p. 481. Reiske, with Plato Rep. 439. d. which passages prove also that near it were the ■irvXat. AimuiSei. 192 TWO LONG WALLS. [cHAP. XXIV. hear of '■either of the two Long Walls,' rwv /uaKpwi' Tei^wv TO eKCLTepoi'^ for the same reason. In all these cases an abstraction, as it were, is made of the Phaleric, or most 'southern and short- est wall of the three : but when the middle wall is considered, as it very rarely is, with reference not to the northern Peiraic wall alone, but to the Pha- leric wall also — as, for instance, when the erection of this middle wall after that of the other two is mentioned — then it is very properly no longer termed the southern wall, to i'otiov x67;>^o9, but the inter- mediate wall, TO Sid fxeaov ret;)^©?^, as lying along between the other two. The reason why, in ordinary cases, the Phaleric wall was neglected in this assig- nation of names, seems to have been the insignifi- cance of the Phaleric harbour, compared with that of the Peirseus. By these considerations, all the difficulties which have been occasioned by the varieties of designation by which the Long Walls are characterized, may, I think, be satisfactorily removed. ' Pausan. viii. 10. 4. calls it twenty stadia. The length of the two long walls (to. fxaKpd -reixv 'n-po? tod lieipaia) vi as forty, Thuc. II. 13. Strabo, p. fiOR. and Villoison Anecd. i. 55. - Plato, Gorg. 45fi. A. Harpocrat. tov did /xearov tclxov?. Plu- tarch, who is very circumstantial on this point, clearly identifies the Sid fxei The execution of the middle or most recent wall, commenced by Pericles, seems to have been very dila- tory, as was often the case with the construction of public works at Athens. The comic poet ''Cratinus, remarking on the tardiness of its progress, said that it was then extending itself to the sea by means of long words and prolix sentences, while in act and deed it did not stir an inch : ...TraXat "ya/J avru Aoyoicri TTfjodycL YlepiKXeri^;, epyoiai o ovue Kiuei' ...for Pericles, an age since. In ivord extends it, though in deed he really does not touch it. And I cannot but suspect that there is an indirect allusion to some architectural work at Athens, only just executed, in the very minute and copious detail of the processes of masonry adopted by the birds in the construction of The Long Walls of their own City, which was but a picture of Athens suspended ■"in the air. If so, the middle wall would not have been com- pleted long before b.c. 414, when that play was acted \ ■'' Cratin. ap. Plutarch, vii. p. 383. Reiske. * See some of the analogies traced in Slivern's P^ssay, p. -28. of jMr W. R. Hamilton's translation. ^ The following are the details of an excursion from Athens towards the south-west, made with a view of tracing the vestiges of the long walls : U. MIN. At VIII. 45. (a.m.) leave the temple of Theseus. IX. On brow of Pnyx hill. 4. Walls there, abutting on kvkXoi uerTto-i. 20. Cross llissus. N ^194 LONG WALLS. [cHAP. XXIV. H. MIN. IX. 30. Fall into road to Phalerum. 37. Vestiges of a long wall (the Phaleric ?) of a hard coarse pudding-stone. 42. Other vestiges. X. Church on r. Blocks: from wall? pass over alow ridge; cistern: Marsh. Bear to right, and find a wall, (to Sid fxicrov Tei\o^ ? ) of white and soft Phaleric stone : bear further to the north ; after 219 paces come to another similar wall of soft Phaleric stone. These two the TieipdiKci (TKe\r\. 39. Cross over the middle wall: proceed toward the N.E. of Phalerum : go along the flat beach toward the eastern point of Phalerum : here the apex of Mount Lycabet- tus is seen just o"er the Propylsea. XI. At eastern foot of Phaleric hill. Gate of Phalerum : de- scend over rocky hill to the eastern x'/'^') of the Phaleric harbour: the substructions of this X'i^'' ^"^^ ^^''7 mas- sive : breadth of its wall from 8 to 10 yards : some of the blocks of stone 11 feet long: attached to it, a tower, 12 yards square : further on, 60 paces, another tower, at the extremity of the x'A'h to defend the entrance. Pass along the brink of the harbour toward the western X')-^'' '■ At a distance of 200 paces, near the /j-vx^^i are vestiges of wall skirting the harbour : at 450 from this point, is western X'?'^''- The beauty of the Phaleric basin is very remarkable. There are fewer vestiges on the Phaleric hill than on that of Munychia. Upon the whole, I should conclude, from our observations this morning, that the traces of the long wall which we saw on the south of the Ilissus, are too far to the south of the line of the Peiraic o-zceXt;, to have any con- nexion with either of them. The former also is of a different stone : it tends to the east of Phalerum, and is probably lost in the Phaleric marsh. Compare Plut. v. Cimon. Cap. 13. p. 202. eis tottows eXo/oeis tcSj/ epyoov efiTrecrovTwv, epeiaQ?]vaL Std Kijutoi/os, X"'^"^' 'foWfj Kal XtOoii fiapecri. tiZv eXwii TTieo'devTwv. A very interesting inscription was discovered at Athens in 1829, which exhibits a public contract with certain individuals for the repair of the Long Walls. This inscription is inserted in the BuUettino deir Institute Archeologico di Roma, 1835, pp. 49 — 64. It says nothing of the repair of the Phaleric Wall, while it specifies both the northern and the southern ones. CHAPTER XXV. Nympharum Domus. V'lllGlL. Dec. 27. This evening we spent some time in a grotto on Mount Hymettus. It is about twelve miles from Athens, on the way to Sunium, and near the village of Bciri, the ancient Anagyrus. It is a natural subterranean cave, entered by a descent of a few stone steps, from which access the interior is dimly lighted: it is vaulted with fretted stone, and the rocky roof is gracefully hung with stalactites. There are some ancient inscriptions engraved on the rock near the entrance. From one of these we learn that the grotto was sacred to the nymphs. Another similar inscription admits the sylvan Pan, and the rural Graces, to a share in the same resi- dence. The pastoral Apollo is likewise united with them in another sentence of the same kind. The Attic shepherd to whose labour the cave was indebted for its simple furniture, is also mentioned in other inscriptions here. His figure too, dressed 196 NYMPH^UM. [chap. XXV. in the short shepherd's tunic {(ia'ira), and with a hammer and chisel in his hands, with which he is chipping the side of the cave, is rudely sculptured on its rocky wall. To any one who comes here from the magnificent fabrics of Athenian worship now lying in ruins in the city of Athens, this simple grotto — a natural temple on a solitary mountain dedicated to natural deities — will be an object of much interest. Here are no ruins. Time has exerted no power here. The integrity of the grotto has not been impaired by lapse of years. When left alone in the faint light of this cavern, and while looking on these inscriptions which declare the former sanctity of the place, and on the basins scooped in the rock from which the sacred libations were made, and the limpid well in the cave's recess from which water was supplied for those libations to the rural deities — with no other objects about you to disturb the impression which these produce — you might fancy some shepherd of this part of Attica had just left the spot, and that he would return before evening from his neighbour- ing sheep-fold on Hymettus, with an offering to Pan from his flock, or Avith the spoils of his mountain- chase, or with the first flowers which at this season of the year have just peeped forth in his rural gar- den ^ If we may pursue this fancy further, we ' The offerings with which the sides of this cave were once hung, are thus rurally described in a picture of a pastoral grotto, similar to the present: (by LonguS; Pastoral, i. p. 5. Villois), di/cKeivTo ok yavXol Kai CHAP. XXV.] I'ASTOKAL OFFERINGS. 197 might imagine him to come here with his pipe and crook in his hand, and then to pour forth his feel- ings in a simple strain, such as the following, which from the objects it notices would have here been very appropriate : " STTJ/Xf^yyes NujucpoHv ei/Trtoa/ces, ai tocxov vowp e'ifSovaai aKoXiov rouoe Kara irpeovo^, avo^ T t]-^r)ecTaa iriTvcxTeTTToio KuAit]^ Tt]v VTTo [iiiaadi}]^ irocrcxl XeXoy^e TreTpr]^, avTai iXrjKOiTe Kat evOrjooio ve'veaOe ^waaucpou TayjLvrj^ (tkvX eXa(po OAHTTOX 4>PAA AI^INVMxioatxo'i, in another inscription found in this cave : 'ApxvTev\a-€v ; of which the two latter lines are hypercatalectic anapaestic monometers. It was perhaps designed, in these metrical prolusions, that the syllables Apx^—j ApxeSi] — , ApxeStjfjLo^, should thus stand successively as a base ea;ti-a metrum. It will be ob- served that the word Nujuats occurs with the article Tali in one of these inscriptions and not in the olher ; which is another confirmation of the above conjecture. 200 THE GRACES*, APOLLO AND ERsiUS. [cHAP. XXV. On the left hand at the entrance is the word X A P I T O (that is, X-apiTcov, dedicated to the Graces, and not -^apiTOi) similarly inscribed; and a stone basin beneath it to supply water for libations to the Graces. Proceeding to the interior, we meet on the right side with another inscription, of which the sense is less intelligible, as the rock in which it is cut is more corroded by time. TA NTEA 5: OKVV — KA ITO OO/VI Having turned to the left round the corner into the other arm of the cave, we see on the left side a horizontal ledge chiselled in the rock, in which two basins, now filled with clear water, are excavated. Here, as in the Nymphseum of Homer, ^e»' ce Kpyjrijije<> re /caJ aii(pi(popfjci; eacrtr Xaivoi, Are bamiA hewn and (imphorus of stone. On a perpendicular margin beneath these two basins, two words are inscribed, one under each ; A POA AJQN 05: : E P^O tlio former of which words enjoins that libations Kliould be made to Apollo, the pastoral or Nomian ' Odvs». XIII. lOn. C11A1-. XXV.] THE GUACKS, APOLLO AND EKSU8. -"1 Apollo, who was here an appropriate deity. Perhaps too his connexion with Pher«^, the native place oi Archedemus the adorner of this grotto, gave hun a stronger claim to a place here. It was in the plains of Pherse that Apollo exercised his pastoral functions: he there fed the flocks of Admetus the Pher^an Kings evaaaP T,oa7re^a^' alveaa,, Geo? irep coV. With meriial fare contented, though a God. The name of the second deity is not of so com- mon occurrence. Still the characters are so distinct, and the etvmology of the word so significant, that they overcome the doubts naturally arising from the rarity of the word. The second basin was, then, I believe, the property of Ersus (EPZOY). He ap- pears to have been venerated here, as the beneficent ^'power to whose influence— shed like dew (eparf) upon the earth,— all rural produce in its infant state, the tender blade, the opening blossom, and the young firstling, were alike indebted for their preservation and increase. The mention of this deity furnishes us, I think, with a clue for the interpretation of the former in- 2 Eur. Ak. init. •^ Welcker. ^.schyl. Tril. p. 240, considers "Eputtinann. I,exilog. it. p. 17<». 202 INSCRIPTIOX KESTORED. [cHAP, XXV. seription, which from its corroded state seemed too mutilated to warrant such an attempt. In the first inscription then of all, the word rav- rpov occurs : it seems to prepare the mind for an abbreviation occurring, as it appears, in this mutilated inscription, which would hardly otherwise have been admissible. The first four letters in this subsequent inscription are, I think, an ^ abridgement of Tuvrpov : and as it borrows this word from the first, so may the name of Ersus be supplied from the last. This mutilated inscription may, on these grounds, be re- stored as follows : tu.vt\^POv\ E^. (Tov k\v L Kai TWU Y= 9ovi (ov This Cave belongs to Ersus and the subterranean Deities. The deities of the earth (Oeol ^^oi'toi) might very fitly be honoured in this subterranean crypt, by the peasant who lived on the earth''s produce, and was reminded by the poet of agriculture to invoke their blessing on his labours, ev-yeaOdi re Au -^Ooviip ArjfirjTepi 9 ayi/rj^ And pray to Jove Terrene, and pure Demeter: ' See an instance of abbreviation in the Elean Insciii)tion. Boeck. p. 2y. 2 Hcsiod O, and P. Li?- CHAP. XXV.] l>LAT0\s CAVE. 20S and whom another poet might have suppHed Avith language to be addressed to them, and to their as- sociate Pan, in this grotto : '^aiyipuTt] Toce Ylavi icai evKapTno Aiovvaw Kai Aijol "^Ooi'it] ^iji'ov 'e9r]Ka yepa^, alreo^xai o avTov^ koXo. irwea ku\ koXov olvou, Kai KaAov afxtjaai Kapirov air aara-vvMi'. To goaf-legg'd Pan, to Bacchus, and the shrine Of Ceres the Terrene, this gift I bear; Oh ! grant me fleeces lohite, and mellow wine. And corn-fields waving tvith the loaded ear. The name of Pan is twice carved in rude letters n A N O ^ on the rock near the exit of the cave. ^v/UL, fiovXo/ievni \nrcp (tvToTi to?9 ckei Geoiv Tlavi Kn'i AirnWdfi'i i/nfiiat Kai }i v/i (j> a ius arces. C.VTl'I.I.. I.XIV. V. 8. The Temple of Sunium is about five miles to the south of Lagrona. Standing above the shore on a high rocky peninsula, its white columns are visible at a great distance from the sea. There is some- thing very appropriate in the choice of this position for a temple dedicated to the tutelary goddess of the Athenian soil. Minerva thus appeared to stand in the vestibule of Attica. The same feeling which placed her statue at the gate of the citadel of Athens erected her temple here. In the former situation, however, as the nearer and more vital of the two, she was the Champion (Jlpo/naxo^) of Athens : while in the more distant, upon the projecting cliff of Sunium, which commands a wider survey, she was the (^Upovoia) Providence of the whole country. By means of her temple on this promontory her protection was stretched, and her power asserted, to the extreme limit of the land. By the belief of her ^ Schol. Aristid, Dind. p. 27. Uponoia 'A6v"« ci<\ijdii ...eTr' aKpav T(7s 'AtT^KIJS, ijyoVV TOU Soi/i/ioi/. O 210 PBOMONTORY OF SUNIUM. [cHAP. XXVII. presence here, extended to this point from her resi- dence in the AcropoUs at Athens, Simium was con- nected with Athens ; it became, in common language, a promontory not of Attica, but of Athens, ^ovviou aKpov Adr]V(Ji)v\ A Httle to the north-east of the peninsula on which the temple stands is a conical hill : here are extensive vestiges of an ancient building : it seems pro- bable that they are remains of a temple, most likely of that dedicated to Neptune, the 'EowidpaTO'i. (Aris- toph. Eq. 558.) The peninsular form of this promontory gave it great advantages as a military post. Its nearness to the mines of Laureium conduced to its prosperity, which passed into a proverb'^: TToWoi c€ vvv fjiev eiaiv ovk eXevOepoi et? a'vpiov 0€ ^ovviei^. For many men to-day do quake as slaves. Who will to-morrow strut like Sunians. It was the principal fortress of this district, and a place of much importance while Athens remained independent^. When that city ceased to be so, Su- nium sunk speedily into decay ; so much so, that we find * Cicero proposing, as a critical question to his ' Odyss. III. 278. Ar. Nub. 400. 2 Anaxand. Athenaei. 263, c. ^ Demosth. 238. 19. * Cicer. ad. Attic, vii. 3. in (Sunio), non ut oppido, praeposui sed ut loco. But see Ernest Ind. Sijiu.oi. CHAP. XXVII.] THORICOS NOW TIIRniCO. 211 correspondent Atticus, whether Sunluni had not now- arrived at that state of desertion to require before its name in Latin the prefix of a preposition, — which was the nijrrum theta of a ruined town. Some modern traveller, in a spirit of less refined sympathy for its former greatness, has daubed in uncial letters on the shaft of one of the columns of its temple the words, " Hommage des Siecles presents aux Siecles passes. 1818."" It was a distance of sixty stadia from Anaphlys- tus on the western to Thoricus on the eastern shore of the promontory ; and Sunium at its extremity is nearly at the same distance of sixty stadia from each of them. Thus these three towns stood at the three angles of an equilateral triangle. We now pass along the eastern shore towards Thoricos, now Thericd. The hills are scattered over with juniper- bushes. The ground which we tread is strewed with rusty heaps of scoria from the silver "^ore which once enriched the soil. The silver-source of these mines, which was once the treasury of the land, is now dried up. On our left is a hill called Scori, so named from these heaps of scoria with which it is covered. Here the shafts which have been sunk * And lead also, Aristot. fficon. ii. ni-'6oKXi]s AOtji^alo? Aetji'ai'ois- -..-ou., &c. Ruhnk. Tin. v. a...Xui^poi>pa Trap UKTrju T€Ta,uei>>], vfjcrov Aeyto' EXemj TO XoiTTop €v fipoToii- /ce/cXry(T6rat '. Stretcfid as a rampart by the shore, an isle. Which shall henceforth the name of Helen bear. There is one great defect here, as in this district generally, the scarcity of fresh water. Thoricus was principally remarkable, in early Athe- nian history, as the residence of Cephalus. He died here, and, as it seems, while in the prime of life ; ' Kur. Helen. IWH. CHAP. XXVII.] CEPHALUS AT THORICUS. 215 for Aurora was said to have carried him off from the shores of Attica to dwell with the Gods. Thoricus be- came famous as the place from which that Athenian hero was removed to a heavenly climate : and with the name of Thoricus was probably associated, in an Athenian's mind, the idea of such an Elysian translation". A miiiration of this character was the lot of (Edi- pus at Colonus^ Its description by Sophocles may derive some light from this the Elysian character of Thoricus. (Edipus is there represented as standing on the brink of another world. He has reached the brazen threshold, and the rugged descent which is to lead him to it. Near him stands registered the solemn compact which Theseus made with Peirithous, when they took together the same journey on which CEdipus is going alone. There is a marble tomb ' Eur. Hippol. 455. a.vy'\pira' ov fietroi a-rd^-, tov re Qopmiov iriiTpov, »cojX>)9 t' dxip6ov, KaTto Xaiuov Tatpov, KnOf^ex'... 216 tEDIPUS AT COLOXLTfJ. [cHAP. XXVIl. at the entrance. All these objects are in character with the place as leading to another state of ex- istence ; and their relation to that state is easily perceived. And may it not be suggested that the idea to which I have just alluded, of an Elysian migration, associated with Thoricus from the story of Cephalus its prince, may serve to explain the obscure relation of the Qop'iKio^ TreV^o?, Thorician Stone, which Sophocles next introduces into the same scene ^ ? ' The interpretation adopted by Kruse, (Hellas, ii. 1. p. 252.) where he supposes the QopiKio^ xcT-pos of Sophocles to be a promontory at Thoricus, had been properly guarded against, even on grammatical grounds, by the remark of Elmsley, 1. c. 'IMale nonnulli rxipem, quasi BopiKiai ireT/oas scripserit poeta,' CHAPTER XXVllI. Eur. /j3/«. T. 1402. Leaving this morning the hut in which we were lodged at Thoricus, we enter a glen between Mount Korora on the right and Mount Tibari on the left. The country becomes more cheerful as we approach the village of Keratia. Heaps of scoria still occur near the road-side: a peasant who accompanies us calls it by its ancient name, (cr/ctopm). These heaps suggest the meaning of the title ot a lost comedy by Antiphanes^ which was inscribed QoplKcoc, i) ^copvTTco.. I couccive that the Thoricians were satirized in that play, as guilty of unfair deal- ing, by 'piercing through from their own into their neighbours^ shafts in working their mines for the ore, of which the scoria is now visible near their own village. = AtheniL-i, p. 689. e. where Schweighffiuser interprets the expression as if it signified -^o^X"^/>''X"^ '"^ fossores murorum. 3 i-niKaTaril^vovT^', tuw ,,i-Tpwv iurS,, ami ,T..i/Tp.;i^ ^ lAM This is an epitaph : by which the monument simply records, speaking in the first person, the name of a woman, whose tomb it is, and the malady of which she died. The fracture of the marble hides from us (HAP. XXVIII.] ANCIENT EPITAPHS. 219 the last particular: but it may be conjectured, from the above vestiges of the word which remain on the monument, that the malady was a pestilence, Xot,aos ; perhaps even,_to judge from the characters of the inscription, which seem to be nearly contemporary with that event— that it was the same epidemic which made such havoc at Athens at the commencement of the Peloponnesian War. Hence we may represent the epitaph in an Iambic verse in this form, After passing through the plain of Keratia and bearing to the right, we enter a picturesque glade overhung with pines ; its sides are furrowed by torrents, and indented with clefts and grottoes. This glen runs in an easterly direction toward the sea. On its north side is Merdnda, and south ' Compare the epitaph, yy'ipec eauoutrav xd(/)uv t'xet <^i\o^evnv, copied by Mr Hughes at Athens, inserted in Welcker's Sylloge Epigr. p. 23. I take this opportunity of quoting another inscription of a very early date, and similar to that in the text. I copied it at Athens from two sepa- rate fragments of stone, found not far from each other. ^O^K^N fT<>$IOHONOAN O^^ KA tf- I Which, with the supplementary additions from conjecture, may be thus exhibited in en elegiac distich : aiifia (i>iXov TToi^os ToSe TltvdtalXao-; tdmev 2thANnZAI XPYEHI ZT EANjni OTI AIKAIO^ EZTI PEP! TA KOI- 20 NA TA EIKAAEI2N KAI EPEZKHH'ATO TOIZ MAPTYZIN ANATPAi'AI AE TO S'HIZ MA TOYZ APXONTAZ TOYZ E<|)HrHZIOY AP XONTOZ ElZ ZTHAHN AI0INHN KAI ZTHZ Al EN Tni lEPni TOY APOAAXINOZ TOY PA 25 PNHZZIOY ' This inscription admits of much more copious illustration than is appropriate in this place. The EiKaSeTs v. 5. are probably connected with the TpiuKcide^, into which the (ppuTpiai and yevii were divided (cf. Hesych. v. -ryoto/ca's and aTpiccKaaToi, and Meier. 1. c. p. 21). On the similarity and confusion of d and /3 (v. 4.) see Bast, Comment. Pal. p. 709. The judicial words avvSiKeTv and eTrto-zojv/'ts are illustrated, the former, in a restricted sense, by Elmsl. Eur. Med. 155; the latter, by Bentley on Phalaris, p. 267. These religious corporations, of which the Eikadensian was one, are noticed incidentally in Theophrast. Char. xi. 5. Cp. Meier, p. 34. The ifPnyt'^o-Los fi'px""' (v. 22.) was superintendent of CHAP, xxvrii ,] ARISTOPHANES. 227 Epameinon, the Soti of Ameinias, made this motion : Since certain individuals continue to act and speak against the Eika- denses at variance with their oath, and with the imprecation which Eikadeus uttered, to the detriment of the common pro- perty of the Eikadenses, from which pi-operty the Eikadenses offer their sacrifices to the Gods, and since they abet indict- ments against the Eikadenses, and have given evidence falsely in the Court, to the detriment of the Corporation of the Eika- denses; (that it be decreed) to elect three individuals forth- with, from the Eikadenses, to co-operate with Polyxenus, who has impeached this evidence of perjury, in order that the false wit- nesses may be brought to punishment ; and to eulogize Polyxenus, the Son of Diodorus, for his probity ivith respect to the Cor- poration of the Eikadenses, and because he brought an action of perjury against the witnesses; and that the magistrates of the Office of Information should inscribe this decree on a marble slab, and erect it in the Temple of the Parnessian Apollo. of the e(;>j)7tio-ets, which were properly suits against the harbourers of out- laws. Suidas V. e(^i)yt}(rts. Wachsmuth. ii. 294. In v- 25. we have the de- cision of the question concerning the orthography of Tlapvnacrio^, which is canvassed by Elmsl. Acham. 348. I take this opportunity of quoting from another inscription, which I copied at Athens, another illustration of the text of this same play. In this inscription, which consists of about fifty Athenian names, occur the words AAKPATEIAHZ ZXIZTPATOY IKAPIEYZ proving, against the more recent English editor, that Bentley was right in substituting the first word for the unmetrical form of it which is found in aU the editions of the Achamians v. 220. Since this was written, the inscription has been printed at full length, by M. Pittakys, Athenes, p. 145. p2 CHAPTER XXIX. Trap^aKoi/ to ywpiov. Aristoph. Pac. 1148. Dec. 30. Marcopoulo is six hours, or about twenty miles, from Athens. The showery season has now set in, and our ride is accompanied by violent and incessant rain. The road lies along a shrubby plain ; it leaves the path to Brauron, and a village called Hieraka, on the right ; passes between two villages, Kokla and Ldpesa; the latter being on the left. In a church at this point is a sepulchral bas-relief, inscribed with the name APTIMA5.. There are vestiges here of an ancient village. The name of the hamlet on the right suggests that it may have been the site of the borough called ^ Kykala. At a distance of three miles further, and eight from Marcopoulo, we leave to the right the villages of Kangia and Leontari. The latter, no doubt, derives its name from the colossal lion, or Xeovrdpi, of white marble, which lies here near the road, by the Church of S. Nicolas. This was perhaps a ' Hesych. KvKaXa : ^//^to? Aiaj/xt'oos rf>v\j}';. 22Q CHAP. XXIX.] MARBLE LIOX. trophy to commemorate a victory; for which pur- pose the statue of a Hon was often employed. The peasants look on this huge figure with a feeling of awe, which thus expresses itself in the mouth of a countrj'man, who informs us that to ^eyaXo^ Oripid e'xe. T^v (pwXedu tov eTrdvco els ra ^ouvd. The monster has a den on the mountains, pointing to the heights of Hymettus, from which he descends to hunt his prey in the plains beneath. The whole of this district, to judge from the remains of ancient buildings which occur here, was very thickly peopled. The Mesogsea, being one of the most fertile parts of Attica, wa« likely to have a dense population^. At an hour and a half from Kangia is seen a tower on a hill, near the village of Krabata : whence a road converges toward that we are now treading, (which probably coincides with the old Steirian road^), and falls into it at a point called, from that circum- stance, the Cross, (aTavp6). Here we find a Turkish guard stationed, for the purpose of protecting the peasants who are coming from their villages to the Athenian market; for this is the market-day at Athens. We now turn to the left, and approach Athens by the same way as we first entered it. 2 Strabo. 399. C. xoi)s ^v t?1 ^ee route are M^aKoypiai under Lycabettus, on the north-east of it : Brachani, ten minutes to the south-west of Pellico : a stream here is called ni7rii|OiO(u ?) : Logothe'ti, ten miniucs south of Brachiini. 232 MAROUSI. [chap. XXX. ing an ancient Demus lurking in a modern village. Such resemblances are not rare. The names of the modern villages in this portion of Attica present many interesting reminiscences of their early charac- ter and usages. In our return from Cephissia to Athens we pass the village of Marousi. Marousi preserves in its name a record of the Amarusian Artemis : for an ancient inscription which is inserted in the wall of a ' church ten minutes to the west of Marousi, informs us that it served to define the limits of the sacred precinct (reVei'os) attached to a temple of that goddess. Again, '" Pausanias tells us, that the tutelary deity of the village of Athmonum was the Amarusian Artemis. Hence we infer that the Athmonian Demus stood on a site near the modern village of Marousi. The vineyards (afxireXia) which we cross in our way westward perhaps belong to that borough. They suggest an appropriate re- cord of the Athmonian hero of the ^ Aristophanic ' The church is about two hundred yards "south of the village of Pellico. There are three other small churches near it. HDF^a^iAF^TE M I AD ^ TEME NQ^ AMAP'V 51 A^ or, "Opos ApTe- jUt5us T6/U6- V0V9 Afxapu- (Tiai . . Limit of the sacred precincts of Amarusiait Artemis. * Pausan. i. 31, .5. a Arist. Pac. 100. CHAP. XXX.] KALAXDRA AND COL.ENIS. 233 comedy, the Peace, who there describes himself as Trygseus, Tpvya'io^ A0/uiOV€V9 afxireXovpyo^ ^e^io'i. Of Athmonum, a clever Vine-dresser. It would appear that the Amarusian Artemis was connected with another Artemis, who bore the title of Kolienis. The jeu-d' esprit in the Birds of the same Poet, in which this last Artemis is mentioned, ovKSTi \\o\aivUi aX\' uKoXavBh 'ApT€fxi^\ seems to intimate that the word aKuXavOU had then some connexion with KoXaivi^. Now, not far from Marousi stands the modern village of Kalandra. The word KaXdv^pa in modern Greek has the same sig- nification with the word aKoXavOk in ancient. It is in fact the same word. Hence, if we may take it for gi-anted, that the Artemis Colsenis was not far from Marousi, and that the modern name of KaXdvSpa is a vestige of the identical ancient aKaXavOU, at- tached to the same spot, we are furnished with a local illustration of the expression in Aristophanes, which lends in its turn a support to confirm the positions indicated above. The title of another Athenian deity survives in the modern appellation of a village which lies between Marousi and Cephissia. This deity is Hercules. * Av. 871. ei> 'Afia/jui/dio »; Ko\aii/i9* ol M v pp iv ova loi KoXaLvioa i-irovopidX,oV(Ti T)}V "ApTe/xiv, wcnrep Jleipaitl-i -riif Mouwxiav, (Cp. Sluiter I>ect. Andoc. pp. 'J and 53, and for the history, Herod, v. fij. ) Ehns. Heracl. 849, proposes to read naWiii/ai, thinking that the name of the demus was Yld\\i\vov ; but it was really Pallene. Antig. Caryst. c. 12. ^ Eur. Heraclid. 1030. See a similar fable with respect to the body of Orestes, Herod, i. 68. Pausan. iii. 3. 7; and of Hesiod, viii. 54; cf Aristid. iii. p. 284. Canter, who says that these inrox^oviovi tjiuXa- /»as Twv 'EWi/i/tui/ piieaQai ti)i/ xwpav ov yelpov i; tov ev Ko\eoj/f7' Kfl/ifvoi' Oio iTTovv, (Ed. Col. 57'i. 621. 236 PALLENE AND PELLICO. [cHAP. XXX. far from Acharnse : and thus the expression put into the mouth of the Acharnians issuing from Acharnse^ dXXct oel ^rjTelv tov avopa Kal pXeTveiv BaXX»/- would be very natural and appropriate. This word was sometimes written '^Pellene, from which form the temple would be called YleWrjviKov. Perhaps a record of it is still preserved in the name of the modern village of Pelhko^, which is ten minutes to the east of Marousi, and not far from the site of Hephffistia. There is an additional reason which confirms me m this supposition, that Pallene was either at or ' Acharn. 222. - Inscript. ap. Boeck. p. 13o. In Diog. Laert. Theophr. v. 5/. HEAANEYS is an error of the text for HEAAHNEYS. Cp. Valcken. Theoc. Adoniaz. p. 189. ed. Heindorf. 3 Pallene was near Gargettus ; for Eurystheus, who was buried at Pal- lene (Eur. Heraclid. 1030), is said to be interred near Gargettus (Strabo, 377- Hesych. v. Tapyn-vTo^). Hence is explained the story of Plutarch, Vit. Thes. c. 13, that the Pallenians would not intermarry with the Agnu- sians, because of an act of Agnusian treachery committed at Gargettus ; that is, near their oivn village of Pallene. See Bentley, Phalaris, p. 145. The same story would lead us to suppose that Agnus was near to Pallene, and Agnus was not far from Athens (Alciphro, Ep. xxxix.) On the whole, therefore, I would place Gargettus beneath the northern extremity of Hymettus, not far from the cross road called Staurd. This would exactly tally with the narrative, that when Pallas marched on Athens by the direct road from Sphettus, his sons were sent by him with a secret detachment of armed men to lie in ambush at Gargettus, (Plutarch. Thes. 13.) in order to take Theseus in the rear when he had marched southward from Athens towards Sphettus, to encounter their father. CHAP. XXX.] GARGETTUS. 237 adjacent to this place. I infer, that Pallene was near the demus of Hephrestia, from the following circum- stance. On the birth of the Athenian king, Erictho- nius, Pallas is said^ to have brought in the air the mountain of Lycabettus from Pallene, and to have dropped it where it now lies, a little to the north- east of Athens, as a bulwark to the Acropolis. The explanation to be given to this legend seems to be this. Pallas came from Pallene, her own demus: she comes on the occasion of the birth of Erictho- nius: now Ericthonius was, according to some tradi- tions, the son of Pallas by Hephaestus. If, therefore, Pallene be near Hephsestia, where I suppose it to have been, Pallas will then come, with her natal gift, from the two demi of the two 'parents; from the demus of Hephaestus, as well as from her own. Her coming, and from that place, and on that special occasion, — the birth of Ericthonius, — would be rendered more appropriate by that particular circumstance of their proximity. This conjecture may be further confinned. There was a Corporation" of Parasiti attached to the He- racleium, or Temple of Hercules, which stood at * Antig. Caryst. c. 12. See MuUer, Brief nach Athen. p. 19. Leake's Memoir, p. 35. 5 On the connexion of Pallas with Hephaestus, see, Plat. Critia, 109. c. Cic. N. D. III. 22, 23. where the Apollo Patrous of Athens is spoken of as their son. « In Athenaus, 234. f. Two of the three Parasiti there mentioned are Gargettians, which confinns the opinion above stated, p. 236, that Gargettus was near Pallene. 238 ANCIENT NAMES. [cHAP. XXX. Hephsestia. The archives of this Corporation were preserved in the Temple at Pallene. This fact seems to imply a contiguity of these two Temples. On the whole, the reflection which arises from the result of this investigation is deeply interesting. In accosting any of the villagers whom we may have met in our walk this morning — in speaking with one, for instance, who is now busily employed in gathering his oHves from the trees by the way-side, and in making enquiries of him concerning these five neigh- bouring villages, Marousi, Kalandra, Harakli, Chal- comatades, and Pellikd, we have been employing in our intercourse with him the names which have grown out directly from the worship of four pagan deities celebrated among these woods and gardens more than two thousand years ago. After returning to Athens, I visit the two white knolls which rise from the plain a mile^ to the north- west of Athens, and gave their name to the demus which stood there — 'the white Colonus,' (dpytJTa KoXwvou^.) In our way we leave the " olive-grove^ of Academe ^ Plato's retirement,"" on our left. It is still called by the same name as in the time of Plato. ' Ten stadia. Thuc. viii. (J?. ^ g^ph. (E. C. 670. '■' The Academy was six stadia from Dipylum. Cic. de Fin. V. init. ^ 3Iilton. CHAP. XXX.] COLONUS. 239 On the two hills of Colonus are two churches. That on the northern hill is dedicated to S. ^milian, the southern is sacred to the Panagia Eleousa. They are both on the sites of ancient buildings, probably of temples. A little to the west of this point is a chapel of S. Nicolas^. What may be the character ascribed to S. ^mi- lian in the modern Greek hagiographies (or avva^dpia), I am not able to say. But Eleousa is, I am in- formed, there represented as a saint of much mildness and clemency. This, her name — eXeovcya, or ' the merciful,' — would import. She is regarded as ev^e- vt]^. As such she has with much propriety succeeded to the EviuLevi^e. EuT. Phopiiiss. 1707, where ffidipus dies at Cohniia. CHAPTER XXXI. Kai Tuvpai'ov "- -^oWd voa-ra yiyveTai. Aristop. Vtsp. 2(JiJ. otWuL t« Kapirifxa licwp yevea-dai. Thucyd. vi. ^^K vii. 71'. CHAT. XXXI.] CLIMATE OF OTHEK DIfiTKKTS. 24.5 too severe to allow a transcript to be nuule even of a few lines of some ancient inscriptions which are found in a ruined church on its summit. We entered Thebes in a snow-storm. It did not abate for several days, and confined us at Thebes in a room with no window — there was not then a pane of glass in the whole of Thebes — for exactly a week. The same cause prevented us from pursuing the ordinary and shortest route from Thebes, that by the pass of Phyle„ That passage was completely blocked up by snow. We were therefore compelled to follow the long and circuitous route over the high and open plain on the north of the Asopus, which brought us out on the sea-coast a little to the south of the Euripus. Thence we followed the shore southward, passing by Delium, and crossing the Asopus, which was then swollen to a formidable stream ; and then mounting the acclivities of Mount Panics. Here however the snow befriended us. For in passing over these heights, at a distance of a few miles to the north-east of Deceleia, our party was waylaid and attacked by two detachments of a large armed troop of the military bandits who at present infest and pillage this province. We owed our escape from that detention by these persons in their moun- tain-haunts — by which other travellers have suffered, for the sake of a ransom on their release — to the singular inclemency of the season, which rendered their access to these their abodes difficult, and their residence in them impossible. 246 ATTIC WINTERS. [cHAl>. XXXI. After an experience of such continued rigorous weather during this excursion, we were much sur- prised to hear, on our arrival at Athens, that the cold had not been severe in this place ; that in the plain of Athens scarcely any snow had fallen, and that none had remained upon the ground. The climate therefore of Attica still may retain the cha- racter, which it enjoyed formerly, for this peculiar excellence. And we are therefore far from acceding to the opinion expressed by one of the speakers in the following dialogue, who deplores the degenerate state of this lovely and once fortunate country. A. oeaTTOiv airaawv^ ttotvl AOr/vaicov TroXts' (B. firj Xeye avBpwTre' ouk€ti elaiv eKelvoi oea- TTOTai.) A. ws or] KaXou crov cpaiveTai to vewpiov. (B. dWa /neO FjWrjcnrovTov kcu Avaavcpov aiyr, (i. e. a). nEPAVrHI), which is the readmg ot all the editions, I have here substituted in the text, «!. REl'lAl TH. In Aristot. de Mundo «\nluccnt halo; which is the sense required here. 248 AIR OF ATHENS. [cHAP. XXXI. Of the natural properties of Attica, the air possesses su- perior excellence, as its ports do likewise; besides this, the position of the Acropolis itself, and the loveliness of its circum- ambient atmosphere, are admirable; for while the atmosphere of all Attica has this character, that especially which hangs over the citadel is the fairest and most pure, so that you might recognize that spot at a distance by the crown of light which encircles it. CHAPTER XXXII. Wjopd 'v .\6uvat<; -^cupe. AniSTorii. Achurn. The Bazar or Market at Athens is a long street, which is now the only one there -of any importance. It has no foot-pavement ; there is a gutter in the middle, down which, in this wintry weather, the water runs in copious torrents. The houses are generally patched together with planks and plaster. Looking up the street, you command a view of the commo- dities with which this Athenian market is now sup- plied. Barrels of black caviar, small pocket-looking- glasses in red pasteboard cases, onions, tobacco piled up in brown heaps, black olives, figs strung together upon a rush, rices, pipes with amber mouth-pieces and brown clay bowls, rich stuffs, and silver-chased pistols, dirks, belts, and embroidered waistcoats, — these are the varied objects which a rapid glance along this street presents to the spectator. The objects which are not to bo found here, as well as those which are, ought not t(^ be neglected in this description. Hero there arc no books, no 250 PRESENT APPEARANCE OF ATHENS. [cHAP. XXXII. lamps, no windows, no carriages, no newspapers, no post-office. The letters which arrived here a few days since from NapoH, after having been publicly- cried in the streets, if they were not claimed by the parties to whom they were addressed, were com- mitted to the flames. Such is the present state of Athens, as ftir as its streets speak of its condition. This city is still in the hands of the Turks. All the other conti- nental towns of Greece south of Thermopylae are independent of Turkey. Strange it is that of all the towns of southern Greece, a distinction of this nature should have been reserved for Athens ! Such however is the case. The Muezzin still mounts the scaffbld in the bazar here to call the Mussulman to prayer at the stated hours ; a few Turks still doze in the archways of the Acropolis, or recline while smoking their pipes, and leaning with their backs against the rusty cannon which are plant- ed on the battlements of its walls ; the Athenian peasant, as he drives his laden mule from Hymettus through the eastern gate of the town, still flings his small bundle of thyme and brushwood, from the load which he brings on his mule's back, as a tribute to the Mussulman toll-gatherer, who sits at that en- trance of the town ; and a few days ago the cannon of the Acropolis fired the signal of the conclusion of the Turkish Rainazam — the last which will ever be celebrated in Athens. CHAP. XXXII.] PREsiENT APPEARAN'CE OF ATHENS. 251 Such alterations will probably have occurred with- in a few years in the general aspect of things in this place, that this description of its appearance at this time will then be perhaps considered as a chapter taken from the fabulous history of Athens, and its condition in a short period be as far removed from what it is at present, as from what it was in the most ancient times, under the old Cecropian monarchs, and at that obscure epoch, when its soil was trodden by the feet of the roving Pelasgi. CHAPTER XXXIII. oxp-et yap outouV kui a(puZp' uvra^ ' Attikov^. Aristoth. The arrival of the new King of Greece, which took place at Napoli on the 30th of January, has produced much excitement at Athens. The Athe- nians propose to send a deputation from Athens to Napoli, to welcome their new monarch to Greece. But who are the particular individuals to be selected as delegates on this embassy, is a question which is now frequently asked, and answered in many differ- ent ways. Had an embassy been decreed yesterday in the Pnyx, to meet Philip of Macedon at Ther- mopylae, there could not be more agitation at Athens than there is now. For the purpose of settling this question, meet- ings and counter-meetings have been held by the rival factions into which the political society of Athens is divided : a fray has just occurred in the market- place, which was attended by bloodshed. The two principal combatants have been since reconciled to one another by the mediation of the Bishop of Athens, who ratifies this work of reconciliation by a religious CHAP. XXXIII.] FEUDS AT ATHENS. 253 ceremony provided expressly for such occasions in the Greek Ritual. The existence of such an 'office in the Greek Liturgy, is a curious evidence of the ir- ritability of the Greek character, which the national religion now, as of old, steps in to mitigate. "Eyw TreiaOeU vtto twv (p'lXwv v i j] Way tju tovtois €i> Ttj TToXei euauTiuv /uapTupcov, o'lTwe^ oitjXXaTTOu ijinas. TTjOos T(Z veto Trji' ' AOtjva^. I-, at the instance of my friends, icas reconciled to these persons in the Acropolis, in the presence of witnesses, icho reconciled us to each other at the Temple of Minerva, — expressions used by an ancient Athenian orator ^on a similar occasion, might now be used, mutatis mutandis, by the political rivals of Athens, of whom we have just spoken. No better evidence can be given of the miserable jealousies which distract the political parties of modern Athens, than the expressions used by the same Bishop at the conclusion of a public ^harangue which he de- ' It is there entitled Eux'i c'^'i exOpas elpi/i/euoutnis. Eucholog. p. 685. 2 Andoc. 146. 3. 3 As an indication of the public feeling now entertained here, and as a specimen of modern oratory, I transcribe a copy of the Bishop's address : — '0/jLiXia i TTOTe 6 'I(rpaj(\iTi/vOS \«os tire eTrearTpexJ/ev, eK ttJs «'X" fiaXuKTiai T?)v ei> IJ«/3u\(Iii't, ets 'le/OoucraXi/'/i. IIuXu TrepicraroTepov e')(a.pi]fxiv iJUcTi aii/xepou, evXoyiifj.i=voi> /ixov uKpoaTi')piov, dyaTniTot fxov d^eXijitn Kal avinroX'iTui, cioTi, did tov Ociov iXiovi, cttcitu diro Tocrous 254 HARANGUE OF THE BISHOP. [cHAP. XXXIH. livered a few days ago, (on the 14th of February,) standing at the south side of the lo^^• hill on which To'o-oiis dyihva's, diro ToaauTui OXi\l/eii, diro Tocra (idffava, diru too-ovi KLudvi/ov9, cLwy^iovi, XeijXao-i'as, acpaydi, -rrvfiKaid^, (pevyovre^, diea-Trd- pi]ixev Tfioe KfiKeTcre, I'/^jj iirea-Tpeil/aimev eh Tyv irodeivoTaTijv TraTpiSa fxai, Kal eiraTyjcrafxev eU to eSacfioi x^s Trarpwai /xas yF/g, irepicpepo- fxeuoi eis tu epei-rria, ws eis TraXuTia, xa'>oj/T6s. " Ei»Xoyr)Tds 6 Geos 6 iraiSevwv Kal irdXiv ito/xevos!" 'O TravdyaOo^ Geo's, ws eXeijfiwv, eJs avp-Tradn^ Kal olKTipfxwv, irapeftkeif/e Ta irXi'idi) twv dfiaprtiuv fxas, Kal /xd^ j;'\e?)crei'. "Evevcrev eis -ras KapSia^ twv Tpiwv KpaTaiuyrdToov 'AvdKTwv, OLTLvei evuidevre's, -rrj deia Suud/xei, direaTeXXov i)puu tov KpaTaiwTaTov nal ya\i)v6TaTov i]/jioov BaariXea "Odwua, ov to KpdTo<; Kal f) Itrxv^ avTou eh] dfxaxo^ Kal aKaTaTpoirioTOi eli alwvwi. fiai, XpKTTe BaoriXev ! 'irdXiv Xeyoa To, " eiiXoyijTos 6 Geds 6 Ttai&evwv Kal irdXiv Lwixevo^V '^Q So^al (Z Xa/ji.'irpoTi)^ I poauv^ \ w dyaXXi- «(Tis ! AeSo^ao-fievov to vavdyiov | dtxovoia, jj araTaviKi} ex^pa, i\v eyevvricrev ij v ae KaTa o Be/iiLiT'TOKX^i^ TOP Ktipvpidoiiv tu T0I2 STENOIil vav/iaxv'^ni: Kpiifpa ■rrnv'i Tnv ftcipftapni' t7rf/n//6. CHAP. XXXV.] SILVER-FOOTED THRONE. 263 Here, when instead of pursuing, they were them- selves pursued by their antagonists, the principal carnage of the Persians took place. Psyttaleia is a low and barren islet. Its present name is Lipsokoutali. This is, I think, a corruption of the older name, which, in the mouth of a Greek, would be pronounced Psyttalia. The attempt to give the word some meaning in the modern language^ produced the present modification of the old name. It was the spectacle of the slaughter made by the Greeks here which struck the mind of the ' Persian monarch with so much horror, that he sprung from the silver-footed throne on which he was sitting on 3 In which KovrdXL signifies a spoon, and, as applied to this smaU flat island, expresses nearly the same idea as the ancient name did, which seems to be nothing more than a corruption of ^Pn^u Xeia. Couloun, the modern name of Salamis, is in the same way expressive of its circular form. KovXodpc is interpreted by 6.. in Eustath. ad Dionys. Peneget, and is the same word as the Latin coluber and colnrus : hence it means a cir- cular cake {.6\\vpa. Aristoph. Pac. 122.), which is its signihcation in Greece now ; and hence the iron ring which encircles the pole of a plough is now called KoWoupa. ■» jEschyl. Pers. 465. Se'p^ijs dvwfxw^ev KaKwv bpwv /3a0os' edpav yap elx^ -rravTO's evavyr) tTTpuTOv, i/>|/f)\oi/ ox^of ayX' TreXayia^ aXos. ptjgav ^e TTeirXous KcivaKoiKvcra^ Xiyi) ij'ig' dK6(7iJLM guy (jfuyrj. The position of his throne seems to have been on the southern side of the hill now called KepaxJ^ru^yo, and formerly ^galeos. Schol. Aristid. p 183. Dindorf. S6>g.,5 K-ae^aTo iirl tJJs »iir6.>u ek to dvyiXeov (read to. Aiypo^. 264 BAY OK SALAMIS. [cHAP. XXXV. the hill-side upon the main-land, uttering a loud cry of lamentation, and tearing his garments in an agony of despair. A little to the east of this hill is a harbour on the main-land, which retires with a deep inland re- cess : from this harbour a small Greek vessel is now seen issuing, which is rendered more conspicuous by the dark-red colour of its sails, strongly contrasted with the gloominess of the shady creek. This is the only object which is now moving on the Bay of Salamis. CHAPTER XXXVI. ''f2 IT or via MoFcra Tav iroXv^evav 'Ueo /\o)p(da vaaov A'ljivuv. Pindar. Ne}n. iii. 1. Oct. 20. At eight o'clock this morning we arrive in the harbour of J^gina. The modern coincides with the ancient port ; it is at the north-west angle of the island. In shape ^Egina is an irregular triangle, the north side of which is nearly parallel to the equator; and its other 'two sides are both inclined to the northern at an angle of about 45". The three most remarkable objects of the island stand at these three andes. At the western, is the site of the ancient port and city. The eastern angle is distinguished by the remains of the temple which has obtained such celebrity in Europe, by means of the iEginetan Mar- bles, which once were attached to its pediments, and are now in the Glyptothek at Munich : and near the southern corner of the island there rises a magnificent 266 PORT OF vKGINA. [cHAP. XXXVI. conical mountain, which, from its grandeur, its form, and its historical recollections, is the most remarkable among the natural features of ^gina. ^Egina was the ' eyesore of the Peirseus : its posi- tion in the direct line from the emporium of Corinth, to the rich islands of the Archipelago, and thence to the Asiatic ports, furnished it with commercial advantages superior to those of Athens itself. Even its barrenness was of service. It drove the inhabit- ants of ^gina from tilling their meagre and rocky fields, to plough the ocean as a more fertile soil than that of their own island: and their Doric ex- traction gave them, on the ground of consanguinity, a claim to the mercantile favour and protection of many thriving marts, where the Athenian trader, for the opposite reason, did not gain so ready an ad- mittance, or so advantageous a reception. Remains of the maritime power of Mgma, may be traced in the harbour where we now are. From its size and beauty it -once attracted the admiration of its Athenian neighbours and enemies. The en- trance to it is through a narrow opening between the two moles (-^tiXai), which project from the shore, and then converge toward this opening. They terminated in two towers, by which the opening was flanked and protected. That on the left side has been suc- ceeded by a small modern chapel, dedicated to S. ' X»i/i»; ToO lleLpaLwi. Aristot. Rhet. iii. 10. 7. Cp. Cic. Off, iii. 2, ^ Demost)). c. Aristocr. fiOl. CHAP. XXXVI.] WESTERN TEMPLE. 267 Nicolas, the modern Neptune of Greece. There are foundations near the shore of docks and basins, stretch- ing for about a hundred and eighty yards to the north of this harbour, and connected with it. Toward the northern extremity of these substructions is the scala, or wharf, which leads to the modern Lazaretto : beyond the Lazaretto, in the same direction, are the remains of an ancient Temple. Its foundations are of considerable extent. Of the rest of the building there now only survives a broken shaft of a marble column. Various dates have been assigned to the erection of this Temple. To determine this question, a cir- cumstance otherwise trivial is worthy of notice. The temple has been employed by the modern ^ginetans as a quarry, from which they have excavated mate- rials for the construction of buildings, public and private, in the town, to which, unhappily for its own sake, it is immediately contiguous. In hewing out the masses of the ancient fabric, several blocks of it were found to be inscribed with letters of red chalk, which were still distinctly legible. These blocks were drawn from the lowest foundation of the building ; the characters, therefore, which are inscribed upon them, are coeval with the building itself. The following are specimens of these charac- ters, which, from their form, may serve as authen- tic data for determining the time of the erection of the temple. The two names which they exhibit. 268 DATE OK WESTERN TEMPLE. [CHAP. XXXVI. Prothyraius and Euphamides, belonged perhaps to two builders employed in the construction of the fabric. r POOvMros EVAMIAHS From a comparison of the characters in these in- scriptions, with others of which the date is known, it is evident that the foundation of this temple is not of an earlier date than the Peloponnesian War. Following the coast in the same direction, we find a tumulus on the shore, probably the same which ' Pausanias saw there, and which he believed to be the work of Telamon, who landed in the neigh- bouring port, and raised this monument to Phocus. Near it were the Theatre and Stadium, of which no vestiges remain. Oct. 21. The beautiful ruin of the ^Eginetan Temple, at the north-east corner of the island, has been the theme of the general admiration of Greek travellers. It stands on a gentle elevation near the sea, com- manding a view of the Athenian coast, and of the Acropolis at Athens, and beyond them of the waving line traced by the mountain ranges of Pentelicus and Hymettus. Its site is sequestered and lonely. ' Pausan. ii. 2f). IHAP. XXXVl.] EASTERN TEMIM.K. 269 The ground is diversified by grey rocks overhung by tufted pines, and chisters of low shrubs, among which goats are feeding, some of them placing their fore feet on the boughs of the shrubs, and cropping the leaves with their bearded mouths. It is such a scene as this which proves that the religion of Greece knew how to avail itself of two things most con- ducive to a solemn and devotional effect, namely, Silence and Solitude. There was perhaps another reason why a site at the distance of eight miles from the city of iEgina was preferred to one in its immediate neighbourhood for the position of this Temple. It is probable that this building did not owe its origin to the exertions of the ^Eginetans themselves. It has, indeed, by many topographers, been con- sidered as identical with the Temple of Jupiter Pan- hellenius, and even as the same fabric which ^Eacus, the king of iEgina, erected to that deity. But not merely does the position of this Temple, standing not on a mountain, as that Temple did, but on a gentle hill, as well as the character of its archi- tecture, plainly indicate that it is not the ~ Temple ^ The only evidence in favour of this supposition is furnished by the two words All PANEAAHNIfll, which are said to have been inscribed on the portico of the temple. If this in- scription ever existed there, the dialect alone proves it to have been a forgery. 270 DEITY OF KASTKRN TEMPLE. [cHAP. XXXVI. of Jupiter Panhellenius ; but there is also another and distant site, which can be clearly proved to coin- cide with that of the Panhellenium. To whom then * was this Temple dedicated ? In order to answer this question, let us examine the groups of sculpture which once stood against the azure ground of its two pediments. They had no doubt an immediate reference to the object of that worship which was paid in the Temple itself. In both these groups one figure, that of Minerva, is more pro- minent than the rest. I should therefore argue that the Temple was dedicated to that goddess. The following circumstance leads to the same conclusion. In our return to the town of ^gina from the Temple, we pass a small Greek church, at the distance of a quarter of an hour to the west of the Temple. The spot is called Bilikada ; the church is dedicated to S. Athanasius. The door of the church is surmounted by a large marble slab, in- scribed H0P02^ TEM EV Ol AOEN Al A^ that is, opos re/iei'oys ' Adrjvdia^, The limit of the sacred precinct of Minerva ; an inscription which pro- bably once defined the boundary of the consecrated enclosure around this very Temple. CHAP. XXXVI.] MINERVA. 271 That it was dedicated to the Goddess of Athens not by iEginetans, but by the Athenians when in possession of .^gina, may be inferred from the site which it occupies, at a distance from the town of ^gina, and looking directly upon Athens. It may be inferred also from the language of the inscription itself; in which, it will be observed, the name of the goddess is expressed not in the Doric dialect of yEgina, but, on the contrary, according to the Attic form. Oct. 22. We visit to-day the site of the Panhellenium'. It was placed on the summit of the conical mount- ain at the southern angle of the island, which has been noticed as so prominent a feature in the scenery of vEgina. This hill is now called to opo's^ The mountain. The name is derived from the ancient language of Greece ; it denotes at the same time that the mountain which bears it, is the highest in ^gina. This mountain was an object of great interest to the ancient inhabitants of the island. On its sum- mit jEacus the king of ^Egina was believed to have prayed to Jupiter in the name of the whole ^Hel- lenic nation for a supply of rain, which was then • Cp. A. Mustoxydi in klywala. No. 1. July 15, 1831. * Pausan i. 44. and ii. 29. and 30. 272 PANHELLENIUM. CHAV. XXXVf. greatly needed, and which was sent by Jupiter in compliance with his prayer. I believe the summit of" this mountain, called opo^, to be the site of the Temple of the Panhellenian Jove (which derived its name from the circumstance above mentioned), upon the following grounds. The Panhellenium is placed by Pausanias on a mountain (opo^) : there is no elevation in ^gina which deserves such a title but the present, which bears the express name by which he characterises the site. The Panhellenian Mountain served as we know, for a meteorological beacon. If its conical apex was capped Avith cloud, then rain was expected ^ This notion prevails still. In this respect the crest of the iEginetan Oros is now to the ^Egean mariner what the heights of ^Roseberry and Belvoir are to the landsmen of Yorkshire and Leicestershire. The legend of ^acus is doubtless to be con- nected with this observation. This mountain supplied the first prognostic of the coming shower. Hence iEacus wisely selected this spot as the scene of his supplication to Jove, knowing as he did that the mountain would probably give the first intimation by ' Theophrast. de Signis pluv. p. 149. edv ev Alyivri eirl tov Aios Tov EWaviov vefjieXti Kadi'^i}Tai, wi to. iroXXd vSuip yiyverai * See Grose's Local Proverbs, arts. Yorkshire and Leicestershire. CHAI'. XXXVI.] SITE OF PANHELLENIUM. 273 clouded summit of the vvished-for rain. He perhaps chose for his prayers a moment when such indica- tions were visible. The shower however which fol- lowed them was considered by the Hellenic strangers, who were collected in the plain below him, not as a consequence of natural phenomena, but of his en- treaties. Thus a coincidence was converted into a cause ; and ^acus the King of iEgina became the Son of Jove. There is another argument to establish the iden- tity of the summit of Oros with the site of the Temple of the Panhellenian Jove. It is well known to have been the practice of some early Christian Churches to modify the objects of heathen adoration, rather than to destroy them. The stream of Paganism was thus taught to glide into a Christian channel with a soft and easy current. On this principle, when temples became churches, and dei- ties and heroes were transformed into saints and mar- tyrs, there was generally some analogy, which regu- lated the transforming process, between the character transformed and that with which it was invested after the transformation. The truth of this assertion may be established on the evidence of numerous ^examples. From the frequency of such examples I would argue the identity of Oros and the Panhellenium. 3 See the instances in Middleton's Letters from Rome, p. l(i;{. I\Ir Blunt's Vestiges, p. 91; and his Reformation, p. 13. S 274 ^ACUS AND ELIAS. [cHAP. XXXVI, The Panhellenian Mount was consecrated in the pagan creed of iEgina by the tradition that ^acus had prayed on its summit, and obtained a shower from heaven in answer to his prayer. The mountain now called Oros has on its vertex a small chapel, the foundations of which are constructed of huge blocks in a style of very ancient masonry. This chapel is dedicated to the Prophet Elias. A more appropriate successor than Elias could not have been devised in the room of JSacus, to occupy the consecrated fabric standing on this hill. For while the Pagan might assert ^'6ti Ala/co? no UaveWtiv'ut) Aii 9vaa Ttjuu) /\a[io(poo}V ovu/ua. Philostratiis, who reard this votive Stone, Himself is called ; His Sire, Demophoon. This inscription affords, I believe, the earliest specimen of the occurrence of ^olo-Doric forms, in a monument of this nature, with the single exception of the Elean inscription. On returning towards the modern city, we pass a site on the western coast of the island called Marathona. Here, in the church of S. Michael, is a marble slab, which proves that the temple of Apollo, noticed by Pausanias in his description of ^Egina, was not far from this spot. s2 276 TEMPLE OF NEPTUNE. [cHAP, XXXVI. HOP 05 TEM Eiv 05^ APOA AI2^ 01 ro5 £\Aawoz Boundary of the sacred precinct of Apollo and Neptune. The temple of Neptune, to which it was con- tiguous, probably obtained its site here, from its con- nexion with the harbour, now called Pertica, which is about a mile to the north of this spot. Near this place is a small chapel. Its interior is very gloomy, the light being derived from the door only, (as was usually the case in the old Greek tem- ples,) and from one small lamp which burns dimly near the Sacred Picture by which the chapel is hal- lowed and adorned. To this picture two hands of tin are attached, evidently intended to be engaged in the act of prayer. Religious worship may still it seems be performed by proxy in Greece, as it was in pagan times. There is a road of recent construction from the port of Pertica to the town of Mgma, : the distance is about three miles. On our arrival there in the evening we find the streets and quay in a state of confusion. A large detachment of irregular troops liad quartered themselves here, where they are said to have made themselves compensation for the re- trenchment of their pay, from the resources of the Greek mint, which is worked at ^Egina, as formerly CHAP, XXXVI.] LKAVE .EGINA. 277 in the age of Pheidon. They have, no doubt, taken care to pay themselves in drachmas of sterHng iEgin- etan weight. A company of Greek regulars (raKriKol) has just arrived here, with the view of dislodging the others, who are determined not to retreat. It is supposed, without much appearance of probability — for the regulars are entirely without pay as well as their opponents — that a fray will take place between them: and to prevent a disturbance, an order has been issued that all the inhabitants should immedi- ately retire to their homes. We embark the next morning for Nauplia. APPENDIX. I HAVE much satisfaction in being able to com- municate to the reader the following details with respect to the recent discoveries made at Athens, and the present condition of that capital, from a letter written by Charles Holte BRACEBRmGE, Esq., which reached me after the preceding sheets had gone to the press. My Dear Sir, My answer to your inquiries as to the newly- discovered objects of interest at Athens, will not, I fear, give any high idea of the exertions which have been made, or the success which has rewarded them. Here, indeed, these discoveries are hailed with delight, not only for their own importance, but as the firstfruits of a rich harvest ;— here, too, where the difficulty of digging down even to the surface of the earth is seen, and the small sums which can be appropriated to research, known, every allowance is made. Nor do we expect, after so many eras of pillage as Athens has passed through, to come at once upon such treasures as have been raised 280 APPENDIX. from the remains of a Roman bath or an imperial villa. Yet the antiquities of Athens now under investigation have their great and peculiar interest — they belong to an earlier epoch — and are parts of one great whole. The excavations in the Acropolis, conducted by Dr Ross, have been carried to a depth of twenty or twenty-five feet below the surface of the soil, on the south side of the Parthenon. Venetian casemates and Turkish subter- ranean galleries have been pierced through, and the foundations of the great temple laid bare on one side, and the Cimonian walls on the other. It is intended to reduce the ground generally to its original level round the temple, and in this process to move the earth ten or fifteen feet deep. Not only have the vast masses brought for erecting the Parthenon (but unused on account of de- fects) been found strewn about, but the rvorkshop of the Parthenon has been found, that is, drums of columns of Pentelic marble lying in huge masses of chippings of marble, and fragments left by the hammer and the chisel ; nay more, some blocks have been discovered which be- longed to the old Hecatompedon, and a number of bronze, pottery, and marble fragments, together with burnt wood, at a level below the above-named marble chippings, which can be attributed only to an era of distinction preceding the erection of the unrivalled fane we now see, namely, the Persian invasion. A very spirited horse's head, in a style intermediate between that of the ^Egina and Parthenon reliefs, and the relievo of a fish, appear to be undeniable remains of the older temple; and a vast variety of beautiful bronze- work vases, helmets, utensils, little figures, handles of vases, attest the ad- vanced state of the arts at that remote period. I was APPENDIX. 281 particularly struck with a bronze Minerva, about ten inches high, finished with all the minute taste of the best specimens from Pompeii. A large collection of ter- racotta fragments, lamps, vases, and architectural orna- ments, was also found at the sub- Parthenon depth, if I may so express it. Among these is a patera of the lightest and finest material, with exquisite figures in dark brown. But the most interesting of these remains are the painted figures and heads, (some of which retain their colours, and represent the Greek costumes of this day,) and especially the fragments of columns, triglyphs, and capitals, which still retain their original colours, blue, red, and the brightest ultra-marine. One capital in the Theseum, and many vestiges about the Erectheum, show that the temples were in part coloured, but no proof has been given, before the discovery of these primitive Attic remains, that bright and highly con- trasted colours were used generally on marble edifices. On the edge of a fragment of a vase, taken from the lowest pit, I remarked in very ancient characters the word AOEN'AIA^. Six pieces of the frieze, three of which are well preserved, are now to be found about the Parthenon: two of them seem to be the work of inferior artists, but one (the subject of which is two priests and an assistant leading two bulls to sacrifice) is a relief equal to any of those of which the Parthenon has been plundered. One only of the metopes, a most spirited piece, is to be found, besides the much injured ones still in their places. The great discovery of the day is the long lost temple of the Wingless Victory, seen by Wheler, and 282 APPENDIX. subsequently blown up and enclosed in a Turkish bastion. It is not of the Doric order, as that traveller asserts, but of beautiful Ionic, the columns about fifteen feet high, and fluted: four columns stand on the front, and four on the back; the sides of the cella being in line with the external columns. The whole is of Pentelic marble, and finely finished: the position is exactly that specified by Pausanias, on the S.W. angle of the Acropolis, on the right as you ascend to the Propylsea, turning the S.W. wing of which this exquisite little temple fronts your right hand. Parts of all the columns of this temple have been found, several entire with their capitals, and these, with the walls of the cella, and most of the entablatures have been replaced, and will have a grand effect as soon as the scaffolding is removed. The reliefs of its frieze are very bold and spirited, and tolerably preserved: the subjects are supposed to be the Athenian victory over the Ama- zons, and that over the Persians at Marathon. Nearly the whole frieze has been discovered, except the four pieces in the British Museum. Two very fine pieces of relief, about three feet high, have been found near the Vic- tory Temple : they do not appear to have belonged to it — the subject is a bull led by three winged victories. The Erectheum has not yet been opened, nor has the base of the great statue of Minerva been sought for; but between these points the passage and steps cut in the rock have been laid open, which led from the Acropolis to the city through the grotto of Aglauros, through which subterranean passage the canephorce pro- bably bore the sacred baskets from Minerva Polias to the gardens of Venus. (Pausan. Attic, c. 27.) APPENDIX. -"^* Within a very few weeks two sarcophagi have been discovered near the modern mint, which have excited much interest. They are not of the first style of art, but yet possess bold and elaborate reliefs: the one wreaths and lions' heads-the other, two lions drmk)ng from a vase, and a Bacchanal of dancing infants. A skeleton was found in the former, which is thought to belong to the early Christian *ra. A third sarcophagus found in the same neighbourhood contains three objects of great interest; a sistrum, an incense-box, and a vase, all of silver. The vase is about ten inches high, and resembles a cream-jug of the last century; the box is octagonal, and about four inches in diameter. The owner of these objects has very reasonably been named a priest of Isis, and is consequenUy but a modern among the ancients. The mint above mentioned (which, after all, is not to be a mint, but a bank, it is said), with the royal stables, a hospital, and a barrack, are the only public buildings of consequence yet erected; but the new palace, the foundation-stone of which was laid by the King of Bavaria two months since, is the object of first attention among the modern improvements. No less than three sites had been previously fixed on, much to the dismay of successive speculators in land; this last, however, seems by general assent allowed to be the best; and the actual building of the palace has placed the minds of landed proprietors and street-projectors at ease on the subject. The spot chosen is just without the old Bobonistra Gate, where the inscription to Hadrian remains, in a line between Lycabettus and the Olympieum, and 284 APPENDIX. on an eminence overlooking the town, the Hymettian chain, and the gulf. The front of the building, which is to be adorned by a portico of Pentelic marble, faces the Acropolis, that is, is about S. S. W. Gardens and a square are to connect the palace with the town. The plan, which embraces two quadrangles, is handsome and commodious, without being extravagant. Nor are the Athenians the less pleased with it because it is to be executed at the King's private expense. The King of Bavaria is said to have contributed munificently ; to him, indeed, and to his talented architect. Professor Gartner, the whole honour of the palace belongs. Many large houses have been erected within the last year, and build- ings are going on with such spirit that the price of ground in good situations far exceeds the sum which could have been calculated on : £300 was lately given for about half an acre, and an adjoining piece has just been sold at the rate of £l200 or £l300 an acre. This is at a distance from the commercial streets, where enormous prices are obtained for the square yard of frontage-ground. Three great streets have been some time since opened — the Adrian, Athena, and iEolus streets — all of which now assume a regular appearance; and though the dilatory system of some parties, and want of zeal and funds to overcome difficulties, have as yet prevented the opening of many of the minor communications, yet an attentive observer remarks the huge masses of grey walls and rub- bish disappear by little and little, crooked encumbered lanes become straight, and wherever two or three good houses are built, walls are thrown back, and a street of twenty feet wide appears. The style of building is rather modern German than any thing else: neither the pictu- APPENDIX. 285 resque (and in this climate agreeable) Turkish house nor the Italian colonnade is seen; happily the English red brick is also absent. The solidity of the walls of rough limestone, which are carried only two stories high, com- pensates in some measure for the rough manner in which they are finished. Many of the common houses are built after the Constantinople fashion— an upper story of wood- work filled up by dried bricks on a basement of broad stone walls. On the whole, considering the necessary want of funds, taste, good practical architects, and workmen who have any knowledge of their art, the appearance of the new buildings is highly creditable. I should have mentioned before, that the walls of the old town were pulled down last spring, which gives the place a much better appearance. The town is now spread out in a fan- shape to the north of the Acropolis, and its diameters may be a mile and a mile and half: the population pro- bably does not yet exceed 15,000'. One peculiarity of Athens is the number of its churches, which are said to exceed 300; with few exceptions they are in ruins. Such a fine opportunity for making open and planted squares will, I trust, not be lost, when the dispute between the municipality and the government as to the right of pro- perty in these churches shall have been settled. The supply of water brought into the town by the ancient aqueducts is abundant and excellent. When the town advances, no doubt many useful and beautiful fountains will vie with those of Rome or Naples. At present the Turkish fountains only are used; and as the Hymettian and Pentelic quarries of marble have not yet been re-opened, it may be as well that no attempt should be ' The population is said now to exceed 20,000. fllarch 183?. 286 APPENDIX. made at present to adorn the Grecian city in this respect'. In connexion with modern Athens I must not omit Peiraeus, where several large houses have been built : some good streets, flanked by low but respectable dwellings, have already been completed. A large custom-house has been built, and a quay and lazaretto are in immediate con- templation ; the population maybe about 1,500. Though trade cannot be said to flourish at the Peirgeus, yet it has become a bustling place. Besides the small coasting vessels which crowd the harbour, four or five brigs and as many schooners are generally at anchor in the ancient Aphrodisian port. Four or five men-of-war frequently lie in the Peiraeus together, nor is any great difficulty found by such heavy frigates as the American Constitu- tion or the British Portland in passing the narrow entrance where the Lions, now at Venice, crowned the pier-heads. The vestiges, considered those of the Salaminian trophy and sarcophagus of Themistocles, still give interest to the outer point, and on the next (inwards) the remains of the famous Admiral Miaulis are laid. A most interesting ceremony took place on the occasion of his obsequies, and a national monument is to be erected over the remains of this modern Themistocles. The little dock-yard at Poros, is in a promising state : eight or ten small vessels and gun-boats are in commission, and form excellent guardacostas. A change of ministers has lately taken place, and all the offices are not yet disposed of: most of the employes are Greeks, and there is every reason to hope that a public system ^ Some blocks from the Pentelic quarry have been brought to Athens, since the above was written. APPENDIX. 287 of business will be adopted, which may prevent intrigues and overcome jealousies which must injure this country. Nor will, I conceive, the decrees, which have been, from their non-efBciency, the ridicule of every one, be persisted in. The great difficulty is to obtain here practical results rapidly; while some diplomats write "rapports" and orders; the Greeks talk and promise; both seem equally averse from doing. Of all the difficulties with which the Government have to contend, that of not having obtained a moral influence from the high principle and worthy intentions of its " personnel," is what strikes an English- man most. The courts of justice are, it is said, well filled by Greeks, who are learning to act on the code of Maurer, and the trial by jury is conducted with regularity and efficiency, and is becoming popular ^ Though the capital is of course infested by the low and vicious population of many nations, (which is never wanting in such towns) in the country peace and security may be said to reign ; the peasantry enjoy their possessions in quietness, and have been gradually improving their condition; the want of capital among proprietors has been a great check to this. Nevertheless, one enters no village where either fresh land has not been brought into cultivation, or vineyards planted. When the National Bank, which is to be 'put in action by an English Company in two months, has 2 The oath is administered in these Courts with much more solem- nity than in ours. The presiding Judge rises, and himself repeats the form to the witness who stands directly before him, with his hand on the Gospels. Every one in the Court stands up meanwhile. 3 This scheme has been hitherto suspended in consequence of the parties in England not being satisfied with the terms allowed them as fixed by Count Armansperg, and approved by the Council of State, (May 1837.) 288 APPENDIX. supplied capital on landed security, agriculture must ad- vance rapidly; but it is much to be wished that the judg- ment and experience of foreigners were called in to assist, and the richer productions aimed at. I have seen most of the richer parts of Greece, and have been lately over the lovely and fertile island of Eubcea, where nature seems to have united the forests, snows, and waters of Switzerland, to the richness and variety of Greece. From the inquiries I have made, and the experience of some most intelligent resident Gentlemen, Greek and foreign, I am convinced that a well-educated Englishman may lay out his capital there, to greater advantage than in Canada or Australia; he may live on his estate, and make ten per cent, on it immediately, and if he buys with judge- ment, will have every prospect of very shortly doubling that amount of interest. An English farmer will prefer places where his language is spoken, but for an educated young man, who can learn Greek, and feels some interest in the beauty, history, and climate of Greece, as well as in the intelligent society of its Capital, (which is within easy reach from any part of that island) who is willing to attend to the details of land-management, and can feel enjoy- ment from extent of domain : I must say, that such a one emigrating, with a capital of not less than £l500 or £2000 has every prospect of a happy and useful life here, and with (as it seems to me) fewer sacrifices than he w^ould have to make in Canada. Notwithstanding all delays in her path, I can only see for Greece success in the future. However great the difficulties of her government, and the inferiority of her situation, compared with European states, yet we cannot forget how rapid and how great has been her rise, not only from slavery, but from a war of destruc- tion, and bearing this in mind we shall more fairly judge APPENDIX. 289 of her powers for happiness. The paltry rel)ellion, near Missolonghij wliich never boasted of more than 300 men, has been put down by the light' troops sent there, and the robbers on the Turkish frontier have received some severe checks and well-deserved punishment for the blackmail they collected in the winter. We have just bought the ground for the Protestant chapel, but in consequence of the delay in the business we shall now defer till autumn the erection of the building. By then I trust we shall have completed our subsci'iption, and be enabled to demand the government-money. The Protestant cemetery on tlae Ilissus has lately been com- pleted and planted with cypresses. You will have ere this received Pittakys' book by Mrs Hill, who is gone alone to America on the business of the Mission. Mr Hill" is well, and desires to be remembered to you ; his schools are flourishing. Believe me, my dear Sir, Very truly yours, C H. Brac?;bridre. Athkns, Apri/ i.'i, 183(1. ' Five of the ancient Chiefs or C^apitani of the war of freedom com- manded these troops; Travellas (a hero of Missolonghi and now Aide- de-Camp to the King) Mammouris, Grivas, Vassos and Tzongas; who not only restrained the licence of their Irref/ulars, but forgot long existing jealousies in the common cause of their country. - The author of this volume cannot allow the names of I\Ir and i\Irs Hill to appear on this page without at the same time recording his obli- gations to them. It was to their kindness at Athens in 1833, at a time and in a place which offered little prospect of such good offices, that he was indebted for the alleviation of an illness which was the consequence of his journey into Btrotia and Phocis, during a winter of remarkable severity. T 290 APPENDIX. My Dear Sir, ^I^^' ^' 1«37. I SHALL gladly avail myself of the opportunity which you offer me, of adding a few lines to my letter of the 25th of April, 1836. Well do I remember the cloudless sky, the genial warmth, the waving green corn, and the mountain flowers, which bore witness to an Attic spring-time on that day. Those only who have " lived beneath the azure morn" of Hellas (oTTOcro/ 'yXavKCtu vaiovcfiv vtt' dw) can conceive the effect of its lucid atmosphere on the animal spirits, particularly at that season. 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