THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES 
 
 Lat 
 
 Iu inline 
 
 OUR 
 
 EOT 
 
 THE 
 
 CTURER. 
 
 thing, 
 
 h below those 
 
 THING 
 
 And for Neatness, Beauty, and Strength, stands quite unrivalled. The Long- 
 cloths used are of Light Silky Finish, and specially adapted for Hot Climates. 
 
 BABY LINEN DEPARTMENT. 
 
 In this Department we show an enormous and varied Stock, from the lowest price 
 (compatible with good Fabric, Needlework, and Shape) to the most costly. 
 Over 100 experienced needlewomen receive constant employment in this 
 Department. 
 
 Corsets in English and French Shapes. 
 
 Hosiery and Gloves in every size, and in fabrics specially suitable 
 for Warm Climates. 
 
 Illustrated Catalogues and Sheet of over Fifty Engraving*, post free, of 
 
 IR,. JLLXjIHST, 
 
 THE "UNIVERSAL" OUTFITTER, 
 
 73 and 78, UPPER STREET, 
 
 AND 
 
 404, KINGSLAND ROAD, LONDON.
 
 ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 India & Colonial Outfitters, 
 
 126 & 127, LEADENHALL STKEET, 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 Known for more than half a century for the high character of their 
 supplies, as also for the care shown in the selection and packing of every 
 variety of manufactured goods. Personal attention is given to the 
 execution of every order, and their constituents have the benefit of 
 manufacturers' best terms. 
 
 A well assorted stock of articles specially adapted for use in India 
 and the Colonies always on hand, including : 
 
 Gauze, Flannels, Tweeds, Serges, Oxford Shirtings, Pzjamas, 
 Merinos, General Hosiery, and Woollen Goods, Portable 
 Furniture, Canteens, &c. 
 
 Bullock and Overland Trunks, Airtight Dress Boxes, Saddle and 
 Book Boxes. 
 
 Uniforms for the Army, Navy, and Civil Services. 
 
 UNIFORMS FOR MERCANTILE MARINE. MIDSHIPMEN 
 APPRENTICES. Ac. 
 
 Agents for the "EVERCLEAN" Collars and Cuffs. 
 
 Lists, Estimates, and all particulars and information 
 on application. 
 
 Passages engaged, Insurances effected. Baggage cleared and ware- 
 housed at nominal charge at their Stores, 
 
 1, BE VIS MARKS, K.C.
 
 ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 S. "W. SH-TVIEDR/ <2c CO.'S 
 
 INDIA OUTFITS 
 
 AND 
 
 COMPLETE EQUIPMENTS 
 
 FOR EVERY PART OF THE WORLD, 
 
 FOR 
 
 LADIES AND GENTLEMEN, 
 
 INCLUDING 
 
 EVERY NECESSARY FOR USE ON BOARD SHIP AND ABROAD. 
 
 CLOTHING, CABIN FURNITURE, 
 
 BEDDING, DECK CHAIRS, TRUNKS, BOXES, 
 
 FIREARMS, AMMUNITION, &c. 
 
 NEW ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, ISO Pages, 
 
 FORWARDED FKBE ON APPLICATION. 
 
 SECTIHETJ. 
 
 Lists of Necessaries for Voyage to and Residence in 
 All Parts of the World. 
 
 S. W. SILVER and CO.'S HANDBOOKS and MAPS 
 to the VARIOUS COLONIES. 
 
 PASSENGEB.S' BAGGAGE & GOODS OF ALL KINDS EECEIVED, 
 PACKED, AND SHIPPED. 
 
 CIRCULAR NOTES, IN DUPLICATE, PAYABLE ALL THE WORLD OVER. 
 
 S. W. SILVER & CO., 
 
 67, CORNHILL, LONDON, E.G.
 
 Indian 
 Outfits & Establishments 
 
 PRACTICAL GUIDE FOE PERSONS ABOUT TO 
 RESIDE IN INDIA; 
 
 DETAILING THE AETICLES WHICH SHOULD BE TAKEN OUT, 
 
 AND THE REQUIREMENTS OP HOME LIFE AND 
 
 MANAGEMENT THERE. 
 
 BY AN ANGLO-INDIAN. 
 
 LONDON : 
 L. UPCOTT GILL, 170, STRAND, W.C. 
 
 1882.
 
 LONDON : 
 PRINTED BY ALFRED BRADLEY, 170, STRAND, W.C.
 
 DS 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 C> THIS book, compiled from articles which have been recently 
 3^9 inserted in the columns of The Bazaar, will, it is hoped, be 
 l found of considerable service to English people, more especially 
 young married couples, going to India for the first time. 
 Though there are books already published on the subject of 
 housekeeping in India, still, as numerous questions are con- 
 stantly appearing in various papers asking for information 
 respecting Indian life, it is only reasonable to suppose that 
 a book, treating in detail of outfits, voyage and necessaries 
 required for it, railway travelling, bungalow choosing, furnish- 
 ing, management of native servants and their duties, the kitchen 
 and recipes for various dishes, the garden and its produce, the 
 stable and general treatment of live stock, combined with hints 
 and suggestions on the manner of living and social customs, 
 will help to supply an acknowledged want, and so be of use 
 to those contemplating a sojourn in India. 
 
 ANGLO-INDIAN.
 
 ERRATUM. 
 
 Since the first portion of this book was printed, the Peninsular 
 and Oriental Company have made an alteration in the sailing 
 of their boats, which do not now call at Southampton. They 
 leave Gravesend for Bombay every Wednesday, and for Calcutta 
 every alternate Wednesday.
 
 INDIAN 
 
 OUTFITS AND ESTABLISHMENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 CHOICE OF ROUTE PACKING BAGGAGE. 
 
 The Peninsular and Oriental Company's Steamers Overland 
 Routes The Bombay, Anchor, and other lines Packing 
 Disposal of Baggage The Indian Parcels Post. 
 
 HAVING determined on proceeding to India, the intending 
 traveller's first consideration will naturally be the means of 
 getting there. Accordingly I begin with the dry, but necessary 
 details for affording a choice of route. 
 
 Of routes by the P. and 0. Company's steamers the longest 
 is that via Southampton ; the shortest, as far as the sea voyage 
 is concerned, that through Italy to Brindisi. The former, 
 via Southampton, runs as follows : 
 
 Sail by steamer from Southampton on Wednesday, about 
 2 p.m., and take the Suez Canal for Bombay, touching at 
 Gibraltar and Malta. Port Said is reached about four days 
 from Malta, the Canal entered, and Suez gained. Bombay 
 passengers are required to change steamers here every alternate 
 week. Then comes the most trying portion of the voyage 
 through the Bed Sea to Aden, where the steamers usually coal. 
 After seven days more Bombay is reached. The voyage by 
 this route occupies about twenty- eight days. The weight of 
 baggage allowed on board free of charge is 3361b. first class, 
 
 B
 
 2 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 and 1681b. for children and servants; excess of baggage is 
 charged at the rate of 1 per cwt. Passengers who prefer 
 embarking at Brindisi can have their baggage conveyed from 
 Southampton by the P. and 0. steamers at the same rates 
 i.e., 3361b. free of charge and payment on excess joining 
 the boat themselves at Alexandria, which port they will have 
 reached via Paris. Thus : Dover to Calais by steamer, to Paris 
 by rail, Macon and Turin by rail (via Mont Oenis) to Brindisi, 
 and from Brindisi to Alexandria by steamer. The time occupied 
 is six days three to Brindisi and three more to Alexandria. 
 The fare, through ticket from London to Paris and Brindisi, 
 by the South Eastern or London, Chatham, and Dover 
 Company, is 11 17s. first class, or 8 13s. second class ; by the 
 Brighton Company 10 13s. first, or 7 13s. second class. By 
 way of Venice the fare is rather less expensive. Passengers 
 proceeding to either Alexandria or Suez can forward their 
 luggage by steamer from Southampton. Between London and 
 Paris on the Dover and Folkestone route charges are made on 
 the excess carried over 5 Gibs., that amount being allowed free, 
 and the same remark applies to the Newhaven and Dieppe 
 route; 661b. are allowed in France to first and second class 
 passengers, but in Italy no allowance is made, and the charge 
 from Modane to Brindisi is 3s. 6d. per 20lb. 
 
 Besides the P. and 0. mail steamers to Bombay and China 
 (via Canal), which leave London (Victoria Docks) every alternate 
 Saturday, and Southampton every Wednesday, there are the 
 following lines : 
 
 The Bombay Anchor Line, from Liverpool direct (via Suez 
 Canal), sailings, which are every fortnight, being advertised at 
 least a month in advance. First class 50 guineas ; no other 
 class carried. 
 
 The Clan Line, Liverpool to Bombay (via Canal), every 
 fortnight, advertised. First class, 40 guineas ; no other class. 
 
 The Hall Line, Liverpool to Bombay (via Suez Canal), 
 calling at Malta every fortnight. First class only, fare 50 
 guineas. 
 
 Calcutta Star Line, from Liverpool (via Suez Canal), landing 
 passengers at Colombo, and embarking passengers, via Naples, 
 at Suez. 
 
 The Eubatino Line, from Genoa and Naples, for Bombay. 
 Average passage eighteen days. Fares, first class, 50 ; 
 second class 34. Sailings advertised.
 
 Choice of Route, &c. 
 
 There are various other lines ; but whichever be selected care 
 should be taken to write for information respecting fares, 
 luggage, regulations, &c. If an overland route be chosen, it 
 will be seen that but little luggage is allowed free of charge. 
 Since, however, heavy baggage can be otherwise forwarded, 
 this need not prove an obstacle. Unless unusual stoppages 
 are made en route, the journey does not occupy many days, 
 and a large-sized square-mouth bag will hold a good many 
 necessaries. If a trunk be taken, it should not be more than, 
 say, 2ft. Gin. in length, 1ft. Gin. wide, and 1ft. 4in. deep. 
 This, with a hand-bag, should be quite enough for night and 
 toilet requisites, including soap and towels, Eau de Cologne, a 
 flask of brandy in case of illness, smelling salts, a needle book 
 with working necessaries, writing materials, and any odds 
 and ends required ; a warm shawl and waterproof cloak, 
 these strapped neatly together, and a good sized umbrella, 
 -slipped into the bundle, should be also taken. If I were going 
 out again, rather than travel overland, I should prefer the long 
 sea route, as thereby much trouble is saved. You settle your- 
 self down once for all for the whole voyage. But then, I like 
 the sea, am never troubled with that dreadful enemy, sea 
 sickness, and never feel better than when on board ship. For 
 those who are bad sailors and dread the longer period at sea, 
 the overland route is better ; and even more land travelling 
 than I have described can be done by going by rail across 
 Egypt to Suez, and joining the steamer there. Only avoid 
 having much luggage cut it down as much as possible, or you 
 will find it a grievous nuisance and a considerable expense. 
 
 Closely associated with the method of conveyance is the 
 arrangement and disposal of Baggage, and this, again, involves 
 the consideration of Packing. 
 
 Married couples taking out linen, glass, china, and other 
 household things should send on heavy luggage of this 
 description, via Suez Canal, beforehand, taking charge of it 
 on arrival at the port of destination. 
 
 All china and glass should be packed together. This is 
 best left to the firm from whom the goods are purchased, as 
 they thoroughly understand the packing of brittle ware for a 
 sea voyage, and will perform it far better than could be done 
 by the purchasers. To facilitate the business, it will be well 
 to buy as much as possible at one large house, or else at a 
 co-operative store, if you happen to be a member. I should 
 
 B2
 
 4 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 prefer buying of some firms which allow discount to holders 
 of co-operative tickets, and letting them forward the goods 
 according to directions. 
 
 With regard to personal baggage by which I mean all you 
 will take with you, either by overland route or troop-ship you 
 will require two air-tight tin cases of similar size enclosed in 
 wooden cases ; these will cost you, including inner and outside 
 cases, sunk handles, lock and key, hinges, &c., from 60s. 
 upwards for the size 30in. by 24in. by 12in. (regulation size), 
 and more, of course, for larger ones. If clamped with iron 
 the cost will be 2s. 6d. additional. 
 
 It has become necessary to have sunk handles, as the 
 regulations for baggage carried by troop-ships are more strict 
 than formerly (see regulations quoted). These wooden tin-lined 
 cases will not be wanted until arrival, and they can therefore 
 be soldered down. A smaller box should be packed with a 
 change of clothing for wear as the weather becomes hot, and 
 should be marked as directed below. This can be tin-lined or 
 not, as fancy dictates, but must not be soldered down. I may 
 here observe, en passant, that all these tin cases become useful 
 afterwards as store cases. 
 
 Besides the heavy baggage you will want two portmanteaus 
 or bullock trunks, regulation size, for use on the voyage one 
 in the cabin with you, and one in the "Present Use" Baggage 
 Boom. These will cost, if tin-lined, from 56s. to 62s. You 
 can get the regulation size trunks and boxes at the Army 
 and Navy Co-operative stores, or of the army outfitters, or 
 shipping agents. You should provide yourself also with a 
 fair-sized square-mouthed bag for cabin use (you will find 
 it invaluable), and a clothes bag for soiled linen, with lock 
 and key. 
 
 Your heavy baggage you should send on to the port of 
 embarkation at least six days before the date of sailing, to 
 the care of some agent, who will see it properly put on 
 board. Your cabin (personal) baggage you will bring with 
 you. 
 
 Baggage in a troop-ship is divided into three classes : 
 "Baggage Boom," i.e., heavy baggage, which is not available 
 during the voyage; "Present Use Baggage Boom," which can 
 be got at every day at a stated hour ; and " Cabin " articles, 
 those so marked being allowed in the cabins. Each officer 
 or lady is allowed two medium sized portmanteaus as cabin
 
 Choice of Route, &c. 
 
 baggage, subject to rules respecting size, the regulation dimen- 
 sions for trunks being 3 Gin. long, 15in. wide, and 14in. deep. 
 Printed labels (free of charge) can be obtained from the 
 Quartermaster-General's Office at Portsmouth, Queenstown, and 
 Bombay, or from Curtiss and Sons, Portsmouth, agents, 
 who are always ready to afford any possible information either 
 to the outward or homeward bound. 
 
 The trunk containing light clothing should be marked with 
 a blue label, "Change of clothing required at Suez, Baggage 
 Room " (all the labels are of different colours white for 
 "Baggage Eoom," green for "Present Use Baggage Room," 
 yellow for " Cabin," and so on), as in the Bed Sea light clothing 
 is nearly always wanted ; and in the same way thick clothing 
 should be marked accordingly on the homeward voyage. 
 Boxes so marked will be stowed near the door of the "Baggage 
 Room," and will be got out soon after leaving Suez or Port 
 Said. 
 
 It may be well to give some of the principal regulations 
 respecting military baggage, as it is not always easy to obtain 
 this information when required. 
 
 G. 0. 131. Embarkations Regimental Baggage. 
 
 1. All military baggage must be carried in rectangular boxes, to be 
 made in accordance with patterns which have been approved and 
 deposited in the pattern room at the Royal Army Clothing Factory, 
 Pimlioo. 
 
 2. The boxes are four in number, of the following dimensions, outside 
 measurement : 
 
 No. 1. 3ft. Gin. by 2ft. 2in. by 2ft.=15 cubic feet, or 3cwt. of 
 baggage. 
 
 No. 2. 3ft. 4in. by 1ft. lOin. by 1ft. Sin. = 10 cubic feet, or 2owt. 
 of baggage. 
 
 No 3. 2ft. Gin. by 2ft. lOin. by lft.=5 cubic feet, or Icwt. of 
 baggage. 
 
 No. 4. 2ft. 2in. by 1ft. 2in. by llt.=2l cubic feet, or fcowt. of 
 baggage. 
 
 3. No baggage will be accepted for shipment with troops embarking 
 which does not conform to this regulation. Casks, vats, crates, hampers, 
 and similar packages are altogether prohibited, as also are padlocks, 
 cording, cleats for rope, handles, and all projections, as they cause loss 
 of stowage room.
 
 6 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 4. The following will be embarked as exceptions to the dimensions 
 authorised : 
 
 Arm chests. Valise for officers' bedding. 
 
 Lace chests. Officero" tabs. 
 
 Tool chests. Bullock trunks. 
 
 Forge. Portmanteaus. 
 
 Officers' bedsteads. Tin uniform oases. 
 
 Musical instrument cases. 
 The cubic measurement of each package to be marked in paint outside. 
 
 5. Cases at present in possession of officers may be retained if 
 approved by the commanding officer, and marked with the number of the 
 nearest equivalent pattern, but not to exceed 15 cubic feet. New cases, 
 when required, must be according to the regulation. 
 
 6. Each article must hare distinctly painted upon it, in front, the 
 name and rank of the owner, or department of the corps to which it 
 belongs, and on the top the nature of j the contents, such as ' ' personal 
 baggage," and on each end the size, number 1, 2, 3, or 4. 
 
 7. Two articles of baggage for each officer will be allowed as cabin 
 baggage ; these are not to exceed the size and shape of the regulation box 
 No. 3, and are to be included in the officer's total allowance of baggage. 
 
 When proceeding by sea, if their passage is provided at the public 
 expense, officers' families are allowed the following additional baggage : 
 
 Eegt. Cwt. 
 
 Each officer's wife with children under 14 years 6 
 
 Each officer's son over 14 and under 16 i 
 
 Each officer's daughter, unmarried, over 14 J 
 
 The weight of luggage each officer is allowed depends on his rank, and 
 can easily be ascertained. 
 
 Bed linen is provided in the troop-ships for military officers and their 
 families. Towels for washing are not provided. 
 
 This part of the subject would be incomplete without some 
 mention of the Indian Parcels Post, by which things omitted 
 in the outfit may be afterwards supplied, or household stores 
 and stocks of clothing from time to time replenished. 
 
 The Indian Parcels Post is not connected in any way with 
 the British Post Office, but is an arrangement between the 
 P. and 0. Steam Navigation Company and the Indian Post 
 Office. Parcels are received by the company for delivery at 
 any post town or in any district in India or Ceylon, at the 
 rate of Is. per pound or fraction of a pound. This charge 
 covers conveyance from London to the Indian or Ceylon ad- 
 dress (but does not include the duty), and it may be either 
 prepaid or paid on delivery. The parcels must be forwarded
 
 Choice of Route, &c. 
 
 to the company's office, 122, Leadenhall-street, E.G., or to their 
 branch office, 25, Cockspur- street, London, S.W., by two 
 o'clock p.m. on Monday in any week, with, of course, the 
 address very legibly written, and the words " to be forwarded 
 by Indian Parcel Post " marked in a conspicuous place. If sent 
 by post to London they will need two wrappers, the inner 
 bearing the Indian address, first given, and the outer the address 
 of the company. Every package must be accompanied by a 
 letter of advice to the company, stating the name and address 
 on it, the nature and value of the contents, for Custom House 
 clearance, and also whether it is to be prepaid or paid on 
 delivery. If to be prepaid a cheque or P.0.0. must be enclosed 
 in the letter, payable to Mr. A. M. Bethune, secretary, or, when 
 sent to Cockspur-street, to Mr. F. H. Firth, agent. Parcels sent 
 by this conveyance must not exceed 50lb. in weight or 2ft. by 
 1ft. by 1ft. in measurement, nor be of more than 50 in value. 
 They should be entirely closed, and articles liable to suffer from 
 crushing should be packed in a strong wooden case, which may, 
 if necessary, be lined with tin for extra safety. Packages not 
 in wood, if measuring one cubic foot and upwards, must have 
 an outer covering of stout canvas. On goods so sent insurance 
 can be effected, but it must in all cases be prepaid at the rate 
 of Is. up to 3 value, 2s. 6d. up to 10, 5s. up to 20, 7s. 6d. 
 up to 30, 10s. up to 40, and 12s. 6d. up to 50. Packages 
 of a fragile description, or containing liquids or damaging or 
 dangerous articles are not received. 
 
 These directions may be found in the Post Office Quarterly 
 Guide, but as such a book is not always at hand I have 
 enumerated the most important regulations. Many of my 
 friends who have parcels sent out in this way receive them 
 quite safely, and find it far cheaper than to send for odds and 
 ends to Bombay or Calcutta, and have to pay perhaps treble 
 the value of the articles.
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 OUTFIT FOR LADIES. 
 
 General Remarks Linen Dresses Miscellaneous Requisites 
 Work for the Durzee (Tailor) Hoots and Shoes. 
 
 A LARGE outfit is not now a sine qua non, as it was years ago, 
 when the parcel post did not exist, and carriage was very 
 expensive. It is no longer necessary to burden yourself with 
 many dresses, many bonnets, hats, boots and shoes, &c., because 
 such things as these can be sent out from home by any kind 
 friend or trustworthy outfitter. I have a relative now in India 
 who, whenever she wants them, has boots and shoes, hats, 
 jackets, and dresses, sent out to her. I do not advise that you 
 should start on this plan at once, for that would be extravagant. 
 Enough at starting should be taken for a year, or even two 
 years ; for in India fashions do not succeed each other so rapidly 
 as at home, and even in last year's bonnet or hat you will not 
 feel yourself demode. 
 
 Personal and house linen the latter if you are married, and 
 going out to settle down you must certainly take, and suffi- 
 cient to last you for some years, which, with care, it may easily 
 be made to do. Also things for ornamenting your house, 
 little trifles, which here cost a mere song, but out there you 
 will not get " for love or money." To this point I shall refer 
 in a future chapter. What I have to consider now is your 
 personal outfit. 
 
 It may be concluded, that the lists commonly given are, as a 
 rule, extravagant and too extensive, and may safely be cut 
 down by nearly one half. The following will be found enough 
 for any ordinary lady's wants. Prices I have not given ; only the 
 kind of articles required and the number of each. With regard 
 to linen, two kinds should be taken; one very thin for hot
 
 Outfit for Ladies. 
 
 weather wear, and the other of thicker texture for the colder 
 season. I may point out, en passant, that your linen should 
 not be trimmed with work ; the washerman (dhobie) is not like 
 Phil Robinson's punkah coolie "a thing of dark imaginings"; 
 but he is a creature with rough hands, and on dainty laces and 
 trimmings works his sweet will ; he has apparently a malicious 
 pleasure in tearing off buttons and strings, and at the very 
 first wash reducing handsome linen into untidy dilapidated 
 garments. Do not regard, therefore, the rather plain look of 
 your underclothing; dispense with the ornamental part of it, 
 and you will be a gainer in pocket, to say nothing of your time 
 being less taken up with replacing torn work and lace. 
 
 Now for your list. Should your wants be greater, add to it ; 
 and, on the other hand, subtract from it if you find the money 
 put aside for the purpose of outfit does not " run to it." 
 
 One dozen cotton chemises, thin ; one dozen cotton chemises, 
 thicker. 
 
 One dozen cotton nightdresses, thin; one dozen cotton night- 
 dresses, usual thickness. 
 
 One dozen pairs of cotton drawers, thin ; one dozan pairs of cotton 
 drawers, thicker. 
 
 Six vests of flannel, or of silk if preferred ; the kind known as 
 Indian ganze. 
 
 Six white petticoats, long, for evening wear, flounced, with bodices ; 
 six shorter, and tucked, with bodices also. 
 
 Four muslin petticoats, with trains to. fasten on ; these may have 
 lace edgings for beat evening wear, and laced trimmed bodices. 
 
 Six white flannel petticoats ; two red flannel petticoats ; two 
 crochet, either red or red and white. 
 
 One flannel wrapper (coloured). 
 
 Two short dressing jackets of some white washing material, cam 
 brie or longcloth, frilled. 
 
 Two pairs of corsets, with extra cases to wash ; one pair of even- 
 ing corsets, with case. 
 
 Twelve pairs of fine white thread stockings, not open work, but 
 either embroidered in colour or plain white silk ; twelve pairs 
 of stockings (coloured), to match the dresses you are taking 
 out ; six pairs spun silk, black ; six pairs warm (coloured), for 
 cold weather use. 
 
 Three dozen handkerchiefs, plain, hemstitched, initialled ; one 
 dozen trimmed with Lice (you can buy these and trim them 
 yourself) ; six best, either worked or lace, for evening use. 
 
 Four pairs of long black mittens; four pairs of long white 
 mittens.
 
 io Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 One dozen pairs of kid gloves ; six pairs of dogskin for riding. 
 One dozen pairs of thread or silk gloves for matching dresses. 
 Of collars, cuffs, frills, and the like, you must take a good stock. 
 
 The list given of linen is really sufficient for an ordinary 
 outfit, and certainly should not cost more than 40, or, at the 
 njost, 50. In order to keep it within limits many of the 
 things may be made at home, provided, of course, that time 
 is not an object. Handwork is, undoubtedly, far preferable to 
 machine work for linen, especially where it is destined to go 
 through rough usage. But, though you may stipulate in 
 giving out the material that handwork alone is to be employed, 
 your orders, unless you look to it well, are likely to be disobeyed. 
 
 With regard to dress, some of the most serviceable materials 
 are thin woollen or cloth, which are adapted for the cold 
 weather ; plain white washing calico or linen for morning 
 wear in the hot weather; uncrushable net, gauze, or lace for 
 evening wear, with silk slips, made body and skirt in one, 
 to wear under them ; one good black silk made with square 
 and high body, and one or two afternoon dresses, mixtures of 
 silk and cashmere, or tussore ; some loose morning wrappers 
 of washing materials, and one or two tea gowns of some patterned 
 material now fashionable. Also a cloth habit, and two white 
 washing ones ; these are not expensive and exceedingly com- 
 fortable ; they should not be made quite tight, but skirts and 
 coat bodies (half fitting) separate. I found mine more useful 
 than I can express. Pique was the material I had one made 
 of, thin hunting cord the other. 
 
 A dozen dresses are quite as many as you will require, it 
 being a great mistake to take out too many, for they spoil 
 in lying by, and you are apt to be tired of them before they 
 are worn out. Suppose you divide your dresses somewhat 
 after this fashion : Two plain white washing morning dresses ; 
 two loose wrappers, white washing materials. These being 
 plain white, you can always vary them by wearing different 
 coloured bows and bands with them. Two costumes for 
 afternoons, of either tussore, cashmere, merino, or any other 
 material, not too heavy, which may happen to be in fashion. 
 
 You will have hats to match these dresses, and jackets, 
 mantles, or capes, as may be the most worn when buying. One 
 cloth costume for cold weather wear, one ulster dress, not too 
 thick, for wet weather and travelling ; this you should have
 
 Outfit for Ladies. 1 1 
 
 waterproofed. Do not take out velvet or velveteen if yon 
 can avoid it, as there are various insects which revel in velvet 
 of any kind; you would have to keep it always in tin, and, 
 notwithstanding all precautions, you would very likely find 
 the nap eaten off in places when you took it out. 
 
 Let your black silk dress be really a good one, and I should 
 advise, as well as two bodices, two skirts also, one of 
 them trotteu&e in fact you should be able to make two 
 costumes out of one dress. Your evening dresses you will be 
 able to alter with the occasional addition of little extras, such 
 as flowers, ribbons, and so on. If you can afford a lace dresa 
 (I should prefer it of white), so much the better ; it will outlast 
 many other evening dresses, and lace, even if not of an expensive 
 kind, is always useful, and can be made up over and over 
 again on different coloured slips. For a ball dress in India 
 it answers better than any other material. When dirty, 
 if you cannot wash it yourself, and there is no one in the 
 station who can, you can send it home by post to be cleaned, 
 and wear it again, looking quite fresh and new. You can 
 allow yourself one good dinner dress of silk and satin, or some 
 pretty fashionable material. Satin would be the most service- 
 able, black, nicely trimmed ; and then with your two loose 
 white wrappers and two of warmer material for wear in the 
 colder weather, I think you will have enough in the way of 
 dresses. Now let me sum them up : 
 
 Two plain white dresses (washing). 
 
 Two afternoon dresses (regular costumes). 
 
 One black silk, with two skirts and two bodices. 
 
 One cloth costume (cold weather wear). 
 
 One ulster dress (waterproof). 
 
 Two evening dresses (for ordinary wear, with bodies and slips). 
 
 One lace ditto (ball dress). 
 
 One dinner dress (full toilette). 
 
 One dinner dress (demi toilette). 
 
 Total, twelve dresses (besides four wrappers). 
 
 You can take out some materials unmade, with everything 
 necessary for making them up prettily ; but of these I should 
 not advise your taking more than two or three. This is an age 
 of change ; new materials are so constantly being introduced 
 that you may just as well send home for the most recent 
 description of stuff as make a fresh dress up from a material 
 worn in England when you left, perhaps two or three years-
 
 12 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 before. White washing extra lengths you may take, of course; 
 plain white can never look out of fashion or otherwise than in 
 good taste. 
 
 Have all dresses, not washing, made with dress protectors, 
 which you can get at any good outfitter's. 
 
 Now, having disposed of the dresses, let me give you a list 
 of some necessary extras : A soft felt hat for travelling, water- 
 proof it should match your ulster dress; another to match 
 jour cloth, a shady hat, and one black bonnet, which you can 
 vary with different flowers or ribbons. Bonnets are little worn 
 in India ; they are no protection against the sun, and one will 
 be sufficient, for you can have hats or bonnets sent from home, 
 or shapes, if you prefer, as some people do, to make up your 
 own, and you will have bonnets or hats to match your two 
 afternoon dresses. 
 
 A riding hat, a pith hat, an extra waterproof cloak to throw 
 on, not tight fitting like an ulster, will be required ; a hand- 
 some opera cloak ; a loose hood lined with flannel for night 
 travelling, or on board ship ; one black parasol edged with lace, 
 and one of some other kind. Two umbrellas, one of large size, 
 for which your tailor will make you a washing cover when you 
 settle down, unless you take a case with you. A stick you 
 may get lame and require one and a good stout riding whip. 
 I always used a crop whip with a stout handle. If you have 
 fur take it, but have a tin case on purpose for it and for it 
 only and when not wearing it look at it frequently. The 
 weather is often quite cold enough for fur. You will want also 
 a couple of warm shawls and a railway rug. Two smaller wool 
 shawls, for wrapping round the throat at night when out driving 
 that is, if you are at all delicate. Tin boxes of extra ribbons, 
 bands, gloves, lace, and similar odds and ends. 
 
 A tin box, filled with needles, pins, threads, cottons, tapes, 
 hooks and eyes, elastic, buttons, and all the thousand and one 
 things wanted for mending and ordinary work. If you indulge 
 in fancy work, paint, etch, &c., take out all things necessary 
 for carrying on such amusements. Plenty of writing paper, 
 envelopes the tough sort of foreign paper is best and some 
 neat paper for invitations, &c. Extra brushes of all kinds, 
 combs, soaps, and toilet necessaries you will also find useful, 
 for bear in mind, that, though you can get all these things in 
 India in the larger stations at Parsee shops, or from the 
 cupra-wallahs and box-wallahs who travel about from bungalow
 
 Outfit for Ladies. 
 
 to bungalow you will certainly be charged more than double 
 the usual price, and get very inferior articles even then. Thread, 
 for example, which, though it may bear the name of an English 
 maker, is rotten and worthless ; needles which snap off directly 
 you use them, or have their eyes damaged ; and pins from 
 which the heads take the earliest opportunity of coming off. 
 Such trifles take but little room in your boxes, and are of the 
 greatest service. A sewing machine will also be of use, and if 
 you have a hand one, I should advise your taking it, with extra 
 needles, &c. 
 
 The Indian durzee is a very clever worker, good at imitating, 
 but bad at originating. Give him a good pattern you can 
 get new ones by post from home as often as necessary and he 
 will turn out a dress very nicely, with strong, neat workman- 
 ship. He is a trifle slow, perhaps, but the work is good, not 
 the red-hot needle, burning thread sort of work our dressmakers 
 at home too often treat us to when they make up a dress in 
 a hurry. My tailor was a very handsome young native, who 
 rejoiced in the name of Iman Bux, and he remained with us 
 all the time we were in India. A tailor is just as much your 
 servant as your cook ; you pay him so much a month ; he feeds 
 himself, as all native servants do, arrives about nine o'clock, 
 and sits patiently working in your verandah till about six 
 o'clock, or later if necessary, only appearing every now and 
 again in the drawing-room, with the profoundest of salaams, to 
 ask for more thread, or needles, or buttons, or tape. It is my 
 private belief he kept a broken needle on purpose to show me, 
 and got as many fresh ones as he could, considering them as 
 a perquisite, as cooks do dripping in England. Certainly he 
 had a wonderful faculty for breaking good English needles, but 
 I heard my neighbours making just the same complaint of 
 their durzees, so I suppose it is a trick peculiar to the class. 
 
 I have hitherto made no mention of boots and shoes. You 
 must, however, start with a fair supply, and be sure you have 
 an easy fit, as your feet swell in India in the hot weather. A 
 tight boot is at any time an abomination in India it entails 
 downright misery. If you are sensible you will take neat 
 buttoned boots for outdoor wear, with moderately high heels, 
 not those fashionable, very small, high, brass-tipped affairs you 
 now see ladies hobbling along upon, suffering pain and dis- 
 comfort, consoled by the idea "that everybody wears them 
 and they look so nice, you know." Do they? I like to see
 
 14 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 girls walking, not crawling with the aid of sticks or umbrellas, 
 with the heels of their boots in the middle of their soles instead 
 of in the proper place. That sort of thing does not answer 
 for India, where, above all things, taking the trying climate 
 into consideration, you need to study comfort. For this reason 
 I advise boots for out-of-doors wear instead of shoes, as in the 
 former you will not get your feet bitten with sandflies, ants, 
 mosquitoes, and so forth. 
 
 Six pairs of boots, four thin and two thick, one pair of 
 riding boots (long), six pairs of house shoes, four pairs of best- 
 evening shoes, and two pairs of a commoner kind ought to suffice 
 for at least two or three years. Take extra bows, buckles, and 
 buttons. Keep those you do not use in tin boxes, having the 
 contents written outside on paper pasted on the lids. This I 
 found a good plan, and should advise its being generally adopted 
 for all tin boxes, as then you need only open the one you want, 
 leaving the others securely soldered down. 
 
 For instance, two pairs of walking boots, one pair of tennis 
 shoes (if you play tennis), one pair of house shoes, and two 
 pairs of evening shoes are quite enough to have in use at one 
 time. Even these must stand on a tin box or be kept in 
 one which is even better the box itself being propped up 
 on bricks to raise it from the floor, or the white ants will 
 assuredly find it out. Shake any boot or shoe before putting 
 it on, that is, if it has been standing out, as scorpions, centi- 
 pedes, and similar small pests often make snug hiding places 
 for themselves in such retreats.
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 OUTFIT FOR THE MARRIED. 
 
 Table and Bed Linen Coverings Hangings Miscellaneous 
 Stores General Household Requisites. 
 
 A MAEEIED couple should certainly take with them house and 
 table linen. It can, of course, be bought in India in the large 
 stations, but is generally dressed for the market if of English or 
 country manufacture, and is, moreover, of coarse quality and 
 very expensive, more particularly the table linen (damask). It 
 may look all right, be glossy and apparently fine ; but the first 
 wash will show how much you have been tricked. Calico is 
 nearly always subjected to a surface gloss with what the 
 natives call conjee, which is made with rice flour mixed in rice 
 water and boiled, this preparation imparting a deceptive gloss 
 to the material, and causing its texture to appear much finer 
 than it really is. English goods are falsified, too, in much the 
 same way, and for this reason their good name has declined in 
 India. In the former case, when conjee has been used, the best 
 test is to rub the material hard between the hands, in the same 
 way as you would rub clothes in washing ; the result, if the 
 material is much sized, will be a very fine white powder. My 
 advice, therefore, is to buy at home all you require in this 
 department. Materials are not doctored up so much for the home 
 market as for the export trade. This remark, though, perhaps, 
 some may think severe, is, however, true. 
 
 In setting up an establishment in India you would not require 
 nearly so much house linen as if commencing housekeeping at 
 home ; and, for this reason your servants, though their name 
 is legion, are not boarded or lodged at your expense. Moreover, 
 if you have children, unless they are grown up, you will probably 
 leave them at home ; and you will be spared from furnishing
 
 1 6 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 so many. In this department, therefore, you need only reckon 
 on your own requirements and on those of occasional guests. 
 
 Do not buy linen sheeting for Indian use. People in India 
 who value their health, never sleep in linen or wear linen under- 
 clothing, because it is apt to give a sudden chill to the body 
 by checking its natural moisture, and is therefore dangerous. 
 The following is a useful list : 
 
 Six pairs of good strong calico sheets (full- sized). 
 
 Four pairs of smaller size for single beds. 
 
 Eighteen pillow slips. 
 
 Two large counterpanes (white). 
 
 Four small counterpanes (white). 
 
 Two Austrian blankets (full size). 
 
 Four ordinary blankets. 
 
 Two horse rugs. 
 
 If four out of the eight warm coverings be striped, they 
 may be used as wraps when travelling, as they will be more 
 presentable in appearance than the ordinary blanket. 
 
 It may be thought that I have limited the blankets too much, 
 but there are issued to the troops in India a most useful sort of 
 light mattrass, which can be used either to lie on or as a covering. 
 It is called a ressaie, and can be procured cheaply in almost 
 any station, or even where there are no troops. It will last for 
 years ; we have two in our house at the present time, relics of 
 our Indian sojourn, which are as good now as when they were 
 bought, and are in daily use. You can, therefore, supplement 
 the warmer portion of your bed furniture with ressaies, and I am 
 sure you will never regret their purchase. 
 
 You will require further at least 
 
 Two dozen bath towels, 
 Two dozen fine towels, 
 Four dozen commoner towels, 
 
 besides those you will want for board-ship use and for travelling. 
 A valise is always useful. With this you have materials at 
 hand for your bed wherever you may have to sleep at a dak 
 bungalow en route, or in rest-camps or huts ; and at a few 
 moments' notice you can make yourself fairly comfortable. In 
 our valise, we carried one large mattrass, bolster, pillows, two of 
 the inevitable ressaies, and the horse rugs, sheets and pillow 
 cases, which, albeit rather cumbersome on many occasions, we 
 found a great advantage.
 
 Outfit for the Married. 17 
 
 With regard to table linen, the following list will be found 
 quite sufficient for some years, and when it requires replenishing 
 a box from England will set you going again : 
 
 You will require at least : 
 
 Six ordinary dinner cloths. 
 
 Six larger, and of better quality. 
 
 Four very large and very fine, for dinner parties, with slips of same 
 
 quality damask. 
 Six breakfast cloths. 
 Six luncheon cloths. 
 Twelve tray cloths (small). 
 Twelve sideboard cloths. 
 
 Two dozen table napkins, matching ordinary dinner cloths. 
 Two dozen, matching, better quality. 
 Two dozen matching best dinner cloths. 
 Two dozen matching breakfast cloths. 
 Two dozen matching luncheon cloths. 
 Four dozen common, for fish, &c. 
 
 Table napkins are used at every meal in India, and you 
 require a good stock, as the rough treatment they get from the 
 dhobie wears them out very quickly. By having them to match 
 the various table cloths, however, you economise a good deal. 
 
 Tea cloths, glass cloths, kitchen cloths, and dusters should 
 be taken out in the piece, and made up by your durzee when 
 you reach your destination. 
 
 The frequency with which the natives lose or make away 
 with the dusters you give them for use in their various depart- 
 ments is astonishing. Everyone complains how rapidly the 
 jhdrans, as your servants call them, disappear. Your khdnsdmdn 
 (cook) must have them supplied to him, your khitmutgdr (table 
 attendant), bearer (butler), syce (groom), mehter (sweeper), 
 and your ayah (maid) have also to be furnished ; and my 
 firm belief is that one and all keep a very old torn and dilapi- 
 dated jhdran by them to show you when you exclaim that "they 
 cannot possibly want new dusters again when you so very 
 lately provided them "; but the unanswerable argument is, " If 
 we have not good dusters, how can we do our work as the 
 Mem-Sahib likes us to?" and the unfortunate Mem-Sahib 
 gives in, and distributes new dusters all round. The only 
 check on this inordinate love of dusters is to get them brought 
 on the weekly day when the clothes are counted over in your 
 presence by the dhobie ; each servant bringing his own dusters 
 and counting them before you. It is a tiresome business, but 
 
 o
 
 1 8 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 I found on adopting it that it answered fairly well. For 
 though a few dusters, tea cloths, glass cloths, &c., occasionally 
 may not be a serious loss, still when it goes on repeatedly, a 
 stop must be put to it. I am sure that the battle of the 
 jharans might well be chronicled. At home you can buy 
 material for these necessary articles cheaply enough, and at 
 the stores, or at some wholesale house, a large quantity will 
 not reach a serious sum. The stuff you will get in India 
 for the purpose is comparatively worthless, washing to pieces 
 directly. 
 
 If you have a fancy for making your bedrooms pretty, and 
 like etched or crewel-worked mats, towels artistically bordered 
 with impossible flowers, and teapots, saucers, and the like on 
 your five o'clock tea cloths which, by the way, I had for- 
 gotten to mention before by all means indulge your taste ; 
 they make your rooms look pretty and well cared for, though 
 many people contemptuously call them dust traps and nests 
 for insects. I am bound to say they are the latter, and for 
 that reason I preferred my toilet table in its pristine beauty, 
 unadorned by mats or muslin draperies. 
 
 But there are other purchases for your house besides the 
 ordinary table and house linen which I should strongly advise 
 you to make before you leave England, such as chintz or cretonne 
 for your drawing-room curtains, sofa and chair coverings. You 
 can now get such pretty patterns in cretonnes, and so very 
 reasonably, that there can be no difficulty in suiting yourself. 
 Take out in the piece enough of one sort for all the coverings 
 and hangings, with the necessary lining, cords, ribbons, braid, 
 &c., to make them up nicely, not forgetting stout cotton for 
 working with. I would also suggest that you take muslin for 
 -window blinds, ecru lace curtains, several pairs alike. The 
 windows in most Indian houses are very high, and you will 
 very likely have to join your curtains, which, if they are of 
 the same pattern, can easily be managed. A piece of crash, 
 either velvet (cotton backed) or cloth, should be added with a 
 view to ornamental antimacassar making for mantel-piece 
 boards, brackets, picture frames, &c. ; together with plenty of 
 that cheap, coarse, but effective-looking furniture lace, which 
 can now be bought nearly everywhere, and makes very orna- 
 mental fringes for the mantel-piece board, small five o'clock 
 tea tables, wall glasses, brackets, and the like. It is astonishing 
 .how easily, with the aid of such trifles and some cleverness
 
 Outfit for the Married. 19 
 
 with the fingers, you can make a bare room look fairly pretty 
 at all events, endurable. I shall have more to say later 
 on about Indian rooms; I may mention, however, that you 
 will require some fancy nails for your amateur ornamental 
 carpentering, and same neat braid for headings. 
 
 Some husband will exclaim " What a quantity of room these 
 things will take ! You will require a ship to yourself at least ! " 
 
 I do not suggest for an instant that you should consider 
 these extras as personal luggage, knowing very well the 
 difficulty attendant on too great a number of boxes to be taken 
 with you. One very large wooden tin-lined box ought, with care- 
 ful packing, to hold all these things, which I will term household 
 goods ; and with the glass and crockery in another box or 
 barrel, it can be sent on before you, via Suez Canal, to meet 
 you on arrival at your landing port, when you can either have 
 it sent on direct by luggage train, if you are going anywhere 
 on the line of rail, or else take it with you. In my own case we 
 pursued the plan I here recommend, sending on our heavy 
 luggage before. Of course we insured it, which I may add, 
 is a very necessary precaution. 
 
 Money spent in such purchases as I have just described is 
 in no danger of being wasted, as people who do not know 
 India might possibly imagine. Good house and table linen 
 always command a sale there, if offered, and the same may be 
 said of any little fancy articles you may not want, when you 
 either go home or leave one station for another. 
 
 c2
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 OUTFIT FOE GENTLEMEN. 
 
 General Remarks Clothing Dress and Morning Suits Under- 
 clothing Boots and Shoes Toilet Requisites Shooting and 
 Fishing Equipment Saddlery Stationery Plate. 
 
 A GENTLEMAN going out to India in these days does not require 
 so large an outfit as in years gone by, and for various reasons I 
 would strongly advise moderation as regards outfit to be taken. 
 It is certainly a mistake to take out a great number of cloth 
 suits, and it is better to have new suits forwarded occasionally 
 from a London tailor than to start with too many. The charges 
 of the Calcutta and Bombay tailors moreover are excessive, and 
 none but the extravagant would dream of replenishing ward- 
 robes at their hands when it is easy to order things from home. 
 
 It is an advantage to gentlemen that the fashion of their 
 garments does not change so often as in the case of ladies' dresses. 
 Hence an evening suit will last for years if properly cut at the 
 outset, and the same remark applies to a frock coat and to morn- 
 ing suits. 
 
 Again so much white clothing is worn in India that cloth suits 
 are rather at a discount, especially in the hot weather. White 
 uniform coats, and white morning and lounging coats are seen 
 on all sides, except, of course, on dress occasions; and they are 
 economical to wear in a country where washing is not expensive. 
 
 Though in cold weather cloth coats, of course, come to the fore, 
 white clothing and the old familiar sun hat, solar topee, is the 
 usual attire in the hot season. The native tailors (durzees) make 
 up these white suits admirably, provided they have a good 
 pattern to cut by, which can easily be provided by bringing out a 
 well cut suit from home. American drill can be bought very 
 cheaply in most stations in India, as it is largely purchased by
 
 Outfit for Gentlemen. 21 
 
 the troops, and so can Tdiakee, a light drab stuff, which wears and 
 washes well ; also light native cloths, such as camels' hair, puttoo, 
 &c., which are cheap, and make up well for loose lounging suits. 
 Flannel shirts and suits for tennis, racquets, cricket, and so 
 forth, should, however, be brought out, as it is difficult to pur- 
 chase good flannel in the country ; but all linen and cotton 
 articles, and material for sleeping suits, can be bought in India 
 at fairly reasonable prices. The following list will, I think, be 
 found ample to start with : 
 
 Three dozen good longcloth shirts, linen fronted, with linen wrist- 
 bands. 
 
 Six dozen shirt collars. 
 Three dozen extra wristbands (if worn). 
 One dozen flannel shirts. 
 One dozen vests. 
 
 One dozen pairs of drawers (merino) . 
 One sleeping suit (thin). 
 Four ditto, thicker material, flannel. 
 
 The thin sleeping suit is to be taken as a pattern, the number 
 to be made op to six on arrival in India, extra material being 
 either taken out or purchased there. 
 
 Four dozen pairs of cotton socks, unbleached. 
 
 Two dozen pairs warmer for cold weather. 
 
 One dozen silk (spun) socks for evening wear. 
 
 Four dozen cambric pocket handkerchiefs, plain, or with coloured 
 
 borders, as preferred. 
 Two dozen silk ditto. 
 Four dozen white ties. 
 One dozen coloured washing ditto. 
 Four pairs of braces. 
 One dressing gown, flannel. 
 One dressing gown of native cloth, to be made in India, from 
 
 pattern of flannel one, for cold weather. 
 One white morning suit (American drill), to be taken out as a 
 
 pattern for others to be made from ; four at least will be 
 
 required, or perhaps six. 
 
 One loose morning coat (white), as pattern for three additional. 
 Twelve white waistcoats. 
 Three dozen white towels. 
 Two dozen bath towels. 
 
 If the gentleman be single, and takes out no house linen, he 
 must add to his outfit 
 
 Four pairs of sheets. One mattrass. 
 
 Eight pillow cases. Two pillows. 
 
 Two blankets. A valise to pack them in.
 
 22 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 He should also purchase on arrival at his station 
 
 Two rossaies. 
 
 Eight tablecloths of good damask. 
 
 Two dozen table napkins. 
 
 One clothes bag, with a good lock to it, for use on the voyage. 
 
 The table and house linen will not, of course, be required until 
 the final destination is reached. 
 
 Eespecting cloth clothing, it is difficult to state any precise 
 number of suits, for much depends on vocation, whether officer 
 or civilian. Anyhow he will want 
 
 One good black dress suit for evening wear. 
 
 One extra pair dress trousers. 
 
 One frock coat. 
 
 One waterproof coat. 
 
 One thin dust overcoat. 
 
 One medium thickness. 
 
 One warm overcoat for cold weather. 
 
 Two ordinary everyday suits, not too thick. 
 
 Two strong shooting suits (if he shoots). 
 
 One warm suit for cold weather wear. 
 
 One tall hat for dress occasions. 
 
 Two deerstalkers. 
 
 Two soft wideawakes. 
 
 One solar topee, to be bought on arrival. 
 
 With respect to officers, I have not mentioned uniform, the 
 requirements depending much on personal predilection and much 
 on the customs of different regiments. 
 
 A good stock of boots and shoes will, of course, be necessary, 
 say : 
 
 Two pairs thick shooting boots. 
 
 One pair fishing boots (high). 
 
 One pair riding boots (high). 
 
 Four pairs ordinary walking boots or shoes. 
 
 Two pairs tennis shoes. 
 
 Two pairs dress shoes. 
 
 Two pairs slippers. 
 
 Ample provision of gloves should also be taken for riding and 
 driving, dogskin ; for ordinary and evening wear, kid. These 
 should be kept in tin cases. To these are to be added ordinary 
 white ties, and black silk ties for evening dress, and coloured 
 silk scarves or ties for morning wear. 
 
 Various extras are necessary, in the shape of sponges, sponge- 
 bags, brushes for hair, teeth, nails, hats, and clothes ; a box of
 
 Outfit for Gentlemen. 23 
 
 Pears' soap, unquestionably the best and hardest for taking 
 abroad ; a medicine case fitted with such medicines as quinine, 
 chlorodyne, aperient pills, Eno's fruit salt, mustard leaves, 
 Jamaica ginger (Oxley's essence), and any other medicines which 
 may be occasionally wanted. 
 
 A tin dressing case, fitted with the usual requisites, razors, 
 strops, and so forth. 
 
 A tin dispatch box the " A B " is the most useful. 
 
 Plenty of stationery, including tough foreign paper and 
 envelopes, foolscap and official envelopes to match, common 
 note paper for chits, better paper for answering invitations, 
 visiting-cards, pens, sealing wax, pencils, indiarubber, and 
 the like, which in India are all expensive and inferior in quality. 
 Sketch books and colour box will suggest themselves to the 
 artistically inclined. 
 
 A good gun, a rifle, a revolver, some fishing tackle, a telescope, 
 a pair of opera glasses, a deck chair, table lamp, one of the 
 latest maps of India, a few useful books, and a case of saddlery, 
 are so many luxuries which can, of course, be omitted where 
 economy dictates ; but in India they are capable of adding 
 much to the comfort of life, whether civil or military. 
 "* Saddlery, it may be remarked is now a less necessary part of 
 the outfit than formerly. Very fair saddles can be easily and 
 reasonably bought in India secondhand. Certainly they are 
 less difficult to obtain than in days gone by, when taking them 
 out was regarded as a good investment. Still, an English made 
 saddle, bearing the stamp of a good maker, is rarely an article 
 to hang on hand if you wish to part with it. 
 
 Sport in India is obtainable everywhere ; and to a sports- 
 man a gun is indispensable. It may be bought by chance 
 out there, but it would be better to buy one of a good 
 maker in England. The sportsman, indeed, may revel to 
 his heart's content, and choose at will from snipe to black 
 buck. Big game is not so easily found now as formerly, and 
 considerable expense is incurred in seeking it ; but for anyone 
 who possesses a good gun, a rifle, a nag, and a couple or so 
 of dogs, an hour or two's shooting in the morning, or a day's 
 sport, is nearly always to be had in the vicinity of small stations, 
 the best shooting being, of course, in the less frequented 
 districts. 
 
 With regard to the packing of the outfit, the same sort 
 of baggage is required for both ladies and gentlemen, and
 
 24 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 on this subject I shall have some suggestions to make in a 
 future chapter. I may mention here that, besides the ordinary 
 trunks of regulation size, a leather bag, for cabin use, square- 
 mouthed, with a good lock, should be provided ; some tin 
 regimental cases for uniform, a tin box for extra brushes, a 
 tin case for medicine box, and another for dressing case, or 
 else the dressing case itself should be of tin. Avoid leather 
 cases as much as possible in favour of tin. The white ants 
 revel in leather, and, moreover, articles kept in it will become 
 mildewed. 
 
 A small box fitted with plated spoons and forks will be found 
 useful, containing, say, four large and four small forks, four 
 large, four dessert, four teaspoons and two salt spoons ; six 
 large knives, and six small ditto ; two pairs of carvers, and 
 a tiny cruet stand. If these things are fitted into a baize-lined 
 wooden box, then an extra tin case will be required. Ordinary 
 nickel-plated articles are the best kind to take out, certainly 
 not silver, as they would be stolen by the natives very soon ; 
 and good nickel-plated articles look very presentable, take a 
 good polish, and wear very well. I speak from experience. 
 Those I bought ten years ago look now as well as ever ; constant 
 use in India has not deteriorated them, and the plating, being 
 on a white metal, shows no sign of rubbing off.
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 THE VOYAGE OUT. 
 
 Requisites on Board Ship Sea-Sickness Amusements. 
 
 HAVING properly packed and duly forwarded to the place of 
 embarkation your heavy luggage which is destined for the 
 "baggage room," supposing that you intend to proceed the 
 whole way by sea, and having also packed a change of clothing, 
 to be worn in the Bed Sea, in a box marked to that effect, your 
 next consideration is what you will actually need in respect of 
 dress, wraps, and the like on the voyage. 
 
 Do not encumber yourself with over much linen or too many 
 dresses, but allow enough for the time, reckoning it at a month ; 
 it will probably be rather less, but then, after landing, you will 
 most likely have a railway journey of a few days, before 
 reaching your final destination, or, again, you may rest a few 
 days, either at Bombay or wherever you have to land. Whether 
 you make your voyage in a troop-ship, in a P. and 0. steamer, 
 or in a steamer of any other line, your requirements will be 
 much the same. 
 
 The usual season for sailing on a voyage to India is in the late 
 autumnal and winter months October, November, December, 
 or January because thereby your arrival happens in the cold 
 weather, and you have time fairly to settle down before the hot 
 season sets in. And, besides, you have not to undergo a railway 
 journey in the heat, which to those fresh out from England, is 
 very trying, and sometimes fatal. January is, perhaps, the best 
 month for landing ; the climate is then very pleasant hot in 
 the middle of the day, but cool, not to say cold, in the mornings 
 and evenings. 
 
 Take your oldest linen for the occasion. Washing cannot 
 be done on board, and you must, therefore, have sufficient for
 
 26 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 at least a month. This quantity will take up a good deal of 
 space, but that drawback cannot be helped. You can pack 
 some in the box containing the change of clothing for Suez, 
 or in your second trunk, placed in the "Present Use Baggage 
 Boom." Two trunks of regulation size No. 3 you are allowed 
 to have with you in your cabin ; but in a troop-ship supposing 
 you are going by one you will find it more convenient to keep 
 one of these, as well as your clothes bag, with lock and key, in 
 the "Present Use Baggage Boom" where you can have access to it 
 every day, rather than have two boxes in the limited space you 
 will have at your disposal, and in the place of a second trunk, to 
 employ the square-mouthed hand-bag I have mentioned. This 
 will hold the odds and ends in everyday use, and avoid having 
 to drag your trunk from under your berth for everything you 
 want during the day. Your single trunk you will then pack 
 with a portion of your linen, a pair of thick boots, a pair of 
 thickish shoes with not too thin soles, as the decks are often 
 damp from frequent washing, and a pair of lighter shoes for 
 evening wear. These, with the boots or shoes you will be 
 wearing when you go on board, you will find enough ; but do 
 not let them be too tight fitting or made with very high heels, 
 or you will be sorry for yourself ; let them be easy and com- 
 fortable, not new, but such as you have had in use. 
 
 It is not at all necessary to appear frequently in different 
 dresses ; for travelling you may wear the same dress (which 
 should be of a sensible kind) either cloth or strong serge, made 
 troUeuse, with extra jacket and hat of same materials, every 
 morning ; you will probably change it for dinner in favour of an 
 old black silk or cashmere and silk, a demi-toilette dress which 
 has already seen service ; this can always be made pretty, for 
 evening wear, by adding lace round the neck and sleeves, and 
 coloured ribbon bows, matching those in your cap, if you wear 
 caps. A dress of this sort is in better taste for the purpose than 
 a more elaborate toilette ; though I have seen ladies, brides 
 especially, appear in fresh costumes nearly every day ; this looks 
 absurd ; for though they had many dresses, they might resist 
 the temptation to wear them when on board ship. 
 
 This old evening dress you see I only allow one must be 
 packed in your box, and also an extra one for morning wear, of 
 some warm material, in case you injure the one you are wearing, 
 and have to make a change. You will require a shady hat for 
 deck wear, as even before you reach the Bed Sea you may find
 
 The Voyage Out. 27 
 
 the want of it. A flannel dressing gown and a short flannel 
 jacket for night wear should be taken also, as at first you will 
 find the nights very cold. Some favourite books should have a 
 place in the bottom of your trunk, with your working and writing 
 materials, and, if you are artistic, your drawing materials also. 
 Take a tin box for holding the gloves you have in use, which 
 should be either dogskin or gants de Suede for every day wear, 
 and black kid for better occasions ; you may not use these, but 
 still you should put them in ; and this tin box will also hold extra 
 ribbons. Another box (cardboard) for collars and cuffs, which 
 for the voyage should be paper ones, besides a handkerchief box, 
 a warm red woollen shawl for evening wear (not white, it would 
 soil so soon), a sunshade, and some towels, bath and ordinary, for 
 these are not provided. You can sometimes get towels washed 
 on board by one of the soldiers' wives, as I did mine, but you had 
 better take enough for the whole time. Your one trunk will by 
 this time be full, and your hand bag will come into use for the 
 rest of your cabin necessaries. 
 
 Do not forget toilet requisites brushes and combs in a bag, 
 mirror, sponge also in a bag, nail brush and tooth brush in 
 division of sponge bag, nightgown case, with nightgown, &c. 
 This you should have large enough to hold the flannel jacket 
 also, as in that case you can in the morning fold up night things 
 and jacket, and deposit them in the case on your berth. Take 
 some cakes of Pears' Soap, a good sized bottle of Eau de Cologne, 
 a bottle of essence of Jamaica ginger, which is good for sea sick- 
 ness, a few drops on white lump sugar taken every morning being 
 very beneficial, and even if you do not suffer from that distressing 
 malady, you will find the ginger act as an excellent stomachic. 
 Provide yourself also with bottles of sal volatile, toilet vinegar, 
 Eno's Fruit Salt, chlorodyne, quinine, mustard leaves, pills, 
 smelling salts, a case of sticking plaister, and a small bottle of 
 brandy or whisky. You can, of course, get spirits on board, but 
 you may want same in case of sudden illness in the night, when 
 it would be impossible to procure it. Have a glass or silver 
 drinking cup, one or two wax candles, night lights, a taper case, 
 with glass protector, matches, and tapers to fit it. You are not 
 allowed to use lights in cabins other than those provided, but you 
 will want your tapers and lights on your railway journey. You 
 should certainly have a work case in your bag, well filled with all 
 necessaries for mending, plenty of pins, needles, and hair-pins, a 
 good knife, a pair of scissors, button hook, pencil in a leather case,
 
 28 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 and an extra hand glass. If one side of your bag is fitted as a 
 dressing bag, you will find it the more useful. A small tin con- 
 taining white lump sugar, and small packets of cocoa, with another 
 of biscuits, should also find a place. These you can replenish 
 when necessary from your other trunk in the "Present Use 
 Baggage Boom." A fan, a note-book, and any other small books, 
 such as your Prayer-book, in a case, may also be put in, with a 
 guide book, a small Hindustani manual and dictionary, for you 
 should certainly, whether lady or gentleman (I am writing more 
 particularly for ladies now), endeavour to learn something of the 
 language while going out. You are sure to find some one to 
 help you in doing so, and even a little knowledge you will find 
 of great assistance when you land. Besides your trunk and your 
 hand-bag you must have a bundle of wraps, an ulster, water- 
 proof cloak to wrap round you, railway rug, and extra warm 
 shawls. These can all be strapped with your umbrella on to 
 your deck chair. I had forgotten to mention the chair, but you 
 should certainly take one, for you will find it a great comfort. 
 This arrangement will make but one package of the whole, only 
 your wraps must have extra straps also (those with a handle are 
 the most convenient). You will find your extra wraps very useful 
 on deck, more especially in the early part of the voyage, for if 
 the weather be fine, you should be as much on deck as possible, 
 and you will be less likely to suffer from sea-sickness than if you 
 remained in the stuffy little cabins below. 
 
 In the "Ladies' Cabin" there are generally about seven berths, 
 sometimes more if the ship is crowded I am writing now of 
 troop-ships. In the Nursery from fourteen to twenty berths are 
 arranged, and in other cabins three, four, or five, according to 
 the size and the number of ladies on board. 
 
 Various regulations are prescribed respecting meals, lights in 
 cabins, wet clothes, soiled linen, and similar matters, which are 
 generally posted up in the saloon ; and a study of these should be 
 made as early as possible after getting on board. The captain 
 generally goes round the cabins twice a week, to see that all is 
 in order, and that the rules are complied with. 
 
 Baths are easily to be obtained, either hot or cold ; but the 
 early morning bath in fresh sea water each day is, to my mind, 
 one of the charms of a sea voyage only you need to sponge 
 yourself with other water afterwards. 
 
 A few words about sea-sickness. I hold Jamaica ginger, as I 
 have before observed, to be an excellent remedy ; but some cases
 
 The Voyage Out. 29 
 
 are so obstinate as to yield to none of the ordinary recipes ; and 
 in that event a doctor should be consulted. The morning bath, 
 keeping as much on deck as possible, constantly nibbling a hard 
 dry biscuit, avoiding tea, coffee, and sloppy foods generally, 
 placing, in violent attacks, a mustard-leaf on the pit of the 
 stomach and a bit of ice in the mouth, are all worth trying ; and 
 remember always that the more you struggle and fight against 
 sea-sickness the more likely you are to overcome it ; while, on 
 the contrary, giving way at first is likely to make you more or 
 less a sufferer all the voyage. Many people, no doubt, are 
 habitually sea-sick on even the shortest voyage and in the 
 calmest weather; but I believe that very many who give in 
 might, with more strength of mind, get over it. 
 
 To those who like the sea, the voyage is very pleasant ; 
 there are generally many nice people on board, and, if troops are 
 carried, sometimes a band, and on fine nights dancing on deck, 
 or singing, glee parties, and so on ; very often amateur theatricals 
 are got up, and come off the night before the port is reached. 
 There is usually a library on board, and there is no reason why, 
 with much that is new to interest and with pleasant society, the 
 time should not pass quickly and agreeably. 
 
 I happened to go out before the opening of the Suez Canal, 
 and therefore had to land at Alexandria, go by rail to Suez, and 
 take the other ship there. Now, however, no change is necessary, 
 unless, it may be, the overland route be preferred to the sea. 
 The journey by rail across the desert was to me the most trying 
 part of the whole trip dusty, hot, and thoroughly uncomfortable 
 we were. A more disagreeable day I never spent, or a more 
 fatiguing one.
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 PLACES EN ROUTE. 
 
 Malta Alexandria the Khedives Palace Port Said the Suez 
 Canal the Red Sea Aden Off the Port of Bombay 
 Approach the Town Objects and Places of Interest. 
 
 ON the voyage out the steamers generally stop at Gibraltar, 
 Malta, Port Said, Suez, and Aden, before reaching Bombay ; and 
 the distances, from place to place, are : Portsmouth to Gibraltar, 
 1127 miles ; Malta, 988 ; Port Said, 937 ; Suez, 88 ; Perim, 1201 
 (no stoppage here); Aden, 97; Bombay, 1644. 
 
 At Gibraltar the P. and 0. boats usually make a stoppage of 
 about six hours ; but the troop-ships very often do not stop at all, 
 unless troops have to be landed or embarked, and in any case 
 the time allowed is too short to do much more than stroll about 
 a little, or hire a horse and see as much as you can in a short 
 time. 
 
 At Malta more time is allowed, especially by troop-ship, and 
 some of the chief spots of interest can be visited, as the ship 
 remains about twenty-four hours. Carriages can be obtained at 
 reasonable prices. The Governor's Palace the former Palace of 
 the Grand Masters should certainly be visited, as its corridors, 
 chambers, and the Knights' Armoury, are very interesting. The 
 Church of St. John is very beautiful, the New Market is a fine 
 building, while the coral, silver, and lace shops in the Strada 
 Eeale are very tempting. At the Theatre Eoyal, near the Porta 
 Eeale Gate, there is generally something worth hearing ; it was 
 burnt down in 1873, but is now, I believe, perfectly restored. 
 In returning home from India, we went on shore at Malta, and 
 slept there the night the ship remained in port, but very nearly 
 paid dearly for doing so, as when we were about to return to the 
 vessel our nurse and child could not be found, having strayed
 
 Places en Route. 31 
 
 into the market, where eventually they were discovered. The 
 time for sailing was nearly up, and we had to make our driver 
 literally gallop his horse down a steep hill, and were obliged to 
 row off in great hurry, only succeeding in reaching the vessel as 
 she was beginning to move. It was indeed a narrow chance. 
 Mem. : When on shore at Malta, especially with a nurse and 
 baby, do not put off the return on board till the last moment. 
 A word about the Maltese shopkeepers. They certainly have 
 lovely things on offer such coral, such lace, such silver filagree ! 
 But they have two prices, one for travellers and the other for 
 residents if possible, therefore, get a resident to make your 
 purchases, if you happen to know any one in the island. More- 
 over, they do not bring out their best articles for ship folks, but 
 try to impose inferior ones on those who cannot very readily 
 detect the difference. 
 
 By the overland route you would stop at Alexandria, and 
 make the journey to Suez by rail. At Alexandria there is a 
 good deal to see. The P. and 0. Hotel is one of the nicest to 
 stay at, though Abbat's is, I believe, considered the best. We 
 were very comfortable at the first-named, and it is pleasantly 
 situated. The Khedive's Palace is one of the places to see ; the 
 building is not very ornamental outside, but some of the rooms 
 are very handsome, of good size, with inlaid floors, highly 
 polished, and some of ebony and ivory. The hangings, also, are 
 of handsome silk and damask, and very good taste is displayed 
 in general. Curiosity led me to turn up the cloth on the dining 
 table. Its legs were of such beautiful mahogany that I fancied 
 the top would be equally handsome ; but it was of plain deal in 
 the centre, with mahogany ends. One room was painted around 
 in neutral tint with views of Eome, and had a marble floor and 
 a handsome fountain in the centre. To get admission, an order 
 must be obtained from the vakil (steward). You should also, if 
 you have time, see Pompey's Pillar ; and if you wish to see these 
 sights, you had better select a dragoman at once, from among 
 the yelling horde who surround you directly on landing, on the 
 presumption that he will keep off the rest. A crowd of natives 
 is by no means pleasant to be mixed with. They positively revel 
 in dirt ; each man, woman, and child you pass appears more 
 and more dirty ; and bouquet d'Alexandre has only to be smelt to 
 be fully believed in. They resemble the Scriptural sow, and 
 literally wallow in filth. At Suez they are even more miserably 
 squalid, every other child appearing to be afflicted with
 
 32 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 ophthalmia. For this reason, one should be very careful never 
 to allow flies to settle on the face, as they are credited with 
 carrying the infection. 
 
 At Port Said the steamers stop only a short time, and the 
 voyage through the canal is not very enlivening, particularly if 
 you ground once or twice. Port Said is a town created entirely 
 by the canal, and as the traffic yearly increases in importance so 
 does the place flourish. It is dirty withal, and by no means 
 agreeable or interesting to stop at. Beginning here, the canal 
 passes a shallow lagune, which is called Menzaleh ; its banks 
 generally swarm with water fowl, flamingoes, and various other 
 birds ; the western lagune is called Ballah ; then comes Lake 
 Tismah, on the northern edge of which is Ismailia, a sort of 
 half-way small town between Port Said and Suez. Then the 
 canal crosses Lake Tismah to Toussoum, and thence to the Great 
 and Little Bitter Lakes, next to which is the Suez lagune, and so 
 into the Bed Sea. Oh ! that Bed Sea ! its very name is nau- 
 seating. In it one is sure to be hot, and if there is any breeze it 
 is certain to be the wrong one. Awnings are put up, lighter 
 articles of clothing come out, people .become irritable, punkahs 
 vibrate not half fast enough, nights are suffocatingly hot, and days 
 are worse. The temperature is hot all the year round 80deg. 
 to 90deg. in the cabins, even from October to March, and it is not 
 at all wise to put off the passage beyond the latter month. If 
 there is any wind it is a hot one, and the heat creates intense 
 thirst. A dose or two of Eno's Fruit Salt should be taken in 
 order to ward off fever. Soda water and lime juice, or soda 
 water and milk, if you can get milk, are good drinks to take. 
 Spirits and wine should be avoided, as they only heat the body 
 instead of cooling it. Cold tea is refreshing, but should not be 
 made too strong, and is not always easy to get. The tea and 
 coffee on board ship are never very good, tea tasting like coffee, 
 and coffee like tea, condensed milk, moreover, giving both a 
 disagreeable flavour. 
 
 Aden is utterly uninteresting a barren rocky shore without 
 a vestige of green. The natives (Soumalis) are rough, wild- 
 looking creatures, with shocks of red or yellow hair. They swim 
 round the ship in shoals like fish, and dive with wonderful 
 expertness, for small bits of money, bringing them up from a 
 considerable depth. 
 
 The steamers usually coal here, thereby occupying some eight 
 or ten hours. Meanwhile life is a burden ; the decks are filthy,
 
 Places en Route. 33 
 
 coal dust floats about in small particles, and penetrates nose, 
 mouth, eyes, and hair. A good plan is to wear a gauze veil if 
 you remain on board ; but most people, uninviting as Aden looks, 
 go on shore. Various articles of Indian and Chinese workman- 
 ship can be bought here ; also coral and ostrich feathers the 
 natural undyed feathers. The large white and black ones they 
 ask a long price for, but the greyish small feathers you can buy 
 cheaply, and they are very useful, especially for children's hats. 
 I have some now I bought coming home, which dye and re-dye, 
 and seem never to wear out. 
 
 After leaving Aden the rest of the voyage to Bombay is per- 
 formed in about seven days, and if the steamer arrives in Bombay 
 Harbour during the daytime the sight is very pretty Malabar 
 Hill on one side, and Colaba, where the lighthouse is situated, 
 on the other, and the town, with its large and, many of them, 
 finely built, handsome houses. Steeples of churches are to be 
 seen rising above the other buildings. On either side of the bay 
 mountains mark the western boundaries of the Indian continent. 
 The Island of Bombay lies to the left, fronted by a fortress 
 mounted with guns. At this time of the year I suppose the 
 traveller to have landed in December or January Bombay looks 
 green and pretty ; there is no lack of foliage, groves of date and 
 other palms are dotted about, and the country houses which 
 lie on the Malabar Hill side are almost hidden with fine trees. 
 
 When the steamer is sighted by the Colaba lookout, who is 
 stationed by the flagstaff at the top of the lighthouse, she is 
 immediately signalled. If she is a mail steamer, a gun is fired 
 and the mail signal run up, and then her arrival is telegraphed 
 all over India. On reaching her anchorage, her mails are first 
 landed, and then her passengers go on shore. If she is a troop- 
 ship, she is first visited by the resident transport officer. These 
 vessels generally anchor opposite the Apollo Bunder, and the 
 P. and 0. steamers higher up the harbour, at Mazagon. If 
 troops have to be landed, this is rarely done at once ; probably 
 the debarkation will take place early the next morning, and the- 
 soldiers will be taken straight from the ship to the nearest 
 railway station. I remember well the misery of turning out,, 
 almost before it was light, on a cold, raw morning, going in a 
 steam launch to the station, and waiting there at least two hours 
 until all had arrived and the train was ready to start. Anyhow, 
 there will be some hours to spend in Bombay ; and if you are 
 travelling on your own account and able to take time, the hours 
 
 D
 
 34 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 will probably lengthen into days, as there is much to see. There 
 are good hotels ; Watson's is the nearest to the Apollo Bander ; 
 Pallinjee's, at Byculla, nearest to the station ; at either you may 
 be very comfortable, but at both you will find the charges pretty 
 high. Some of the buildings are very fine the National Bank, 
 English and Native Mercantile Offices, the Municipal Offices, 
 Secretarial Library, Post Office, High Court, &c. Of clubs there 
 are the Bombay Club, Byculla Club, Cricket, Yacht, and others. 
 The cathedral is well worth a visit ; the Victoria Gardens also, 
 if you care to see various specimens of exotics and natural flora ; 
 it was originally established by Dr. Birdwood, whose name is 
 now famous in connection with Indian industrial art. The light- 
 house on Colaba Hill is within a short drive, and the view from 
 it lovely ; there is also an observatory at Colaba. The Vehar 
 Waterworks and Lake (Salsette Hills) are also within a drive, 
 but rather a long one. The Elephanta Caves on the Gharapuri 
 Island you certainly must see, if you stay in Bombay long 
 enough. They are one of the chief sights in the neighbourhood, 
 and a trip to them, either by steamer or sailing boat across the 
 harbour, is very delightful, and with a favourable breeze takes 
 no more than two hours. One of the roomy, short-masted 
 fishing boats, lateen rigged, with dark brown sails, is a very com- 
 fortable craft for an expedition of the sort. Gharapuri, as the 
 natives call the island, is about five miles from Bombay main- 
 land, lying to the east; and, as the island is clothed with 
 verdure down to the water's edge, and the trees are chiefly palms 
 of various sorts, it presents, as you approach it, a very pretty 
 appearance. From the top for there is a steep ascent from the 
 landing place to the caves there is a lovely view. In the 
 extreme distance are the far-famed Ghauts, looking very hazy 
 in the glare of the sunlight ; then the dark narrow neck of land, 
 Colaba Point, with the lighthouse at its extremity, from which 
 an expanse of rippling water reaches to the feet, the Islands of 
 Salsette and Bombay, and Butcher's Island, breaking it up. 
 Along the line of shore from Colaba we trace various points to 
 the Apollo Bunder, a very favourite resort in the cool of the 
 evening for the Europeans in Bombay. Then Bombay itself, 
 with its numerous buildings ; and between us and the town is a 
 perfect forest of masts, the shipping of all nations. The caves 
 are too well known to need a special description, but they are 
 undoubtedly worth a visit before you pursue your journey up 
 country, and for this reason I have mentioned them.
 
 CHAPTEE VII. 
 TRAVELLING UP COUNTRY. 
 
 Railway Travelling Refreshments Provision for the Journey 
 Scenery Jubbulpore The " Marble Rocks " Allahabad 
 Confluence of the Jumna and the Ganges Cawnpore The 
 Cholera The Memorable Well Hotels Charges Agra 
 The Taj An Indian Sunset Night Travelling Scenery 
 Mooltan. 
 
 EAILWAY travelling in India is never very agreeable, the dust 
 and glare being very trying to the eyes, and the rate of 
 progression slow. I will suppose that you have a long distance 
 to go before you reach your destination. Say you are going 
 to Lahore. You will have 1558 miles of rail to travel, and, 
 by passenger train, will take about five days and nights doing 
 the distance. If time is no great object and you are not 
 travelling with troops, I should advise this journey being 
 broken at Jubbulpore, Allahabad, Cawnpore, and Toondla, for 
 Agra. If you are going further than Lahore, say, to Mooltan, 
 then another stoppage might be made at Lahore. By resting 
 in this way, and travelling as much as possible by night, you 
 will not feel the journey so fatiguing, and you will, besides, 
 have an opportunity of seeing some of the chief places of 
 interest en route. 
 
 For troops the first resting place is Deolalee, about 113 miles 
 from Bombay, this being the " rest camp " up and down, 
 where accommodation is provided in huts, and there is a mess 
 for bachelor officers. 
 
 The scenery on the line up from Bombay to Egatpoora, at the 
 foot of the Western Ghauts, is in places very lovely and varied ; 
 the colour of the distant Ghauts, which are very singular and 
 striking, is mostly red, deepening to purple in the shadows. 
 
 D2
 
 36 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 For about thirty or forty miles from Bombay the country is 
 level, and at intervals there are pretty glimpses of the sea, into 
 which flows the Tanna river, the line running at times quite 
 close to its banks, and across it in one place over a well-built 
 viaduct. The Callian river is also close to the line, and, as the 
 country is well wooded, the effects here and there of water, tree, 
 rock, and sky which is in India rarely obscured by clouds are 
 most picturesque. Then the line commences to rise rapidly, and 
 the scenery becomes more rugged and grand ; the high red peaks 
 of the nearer hills alternate with the deep wooded ravines, pre- 
 senting every shade of green and yellow, while always in the 
 distance is the line of Ghauts with their varied shading. The 
 line turns about a great deal during the ascent, and the engines 
 (there are usually two for the steepest parts) are in one place 
 shifted to the rear of the train, and the ascent forwards is con- 
 tinued in that way. The incline is very considerable, 1ft. in 
 30ft., and the Poonah Ghauts are even steeper. When Egatpoora 
 is passed the hills decrease in size, and the country becomes less 
 interesting. If the journey from Bombay to Jubbulpore is made 
 without a break that is, beyond the occasional half hours 
 allowed for refreshment it takes twenty-seven and a half hours, 
 and travellers should provide themselves with refreshment, and 
 not trust to procuring it on the journey, for sufficient time is not 
 allowed to obtain a comfortable meal ; the viands are untempting, 
 indigestible, greasy, and always the same "muttony chop," 
 " mourghee " (fowl), and beefsteaks, much resembling india- 
 rubber. We always took provisions with us on every railway 
 journey hard-boiled eggs, cold teal, cold chicken, salt, mustard, 
 and pepper, bread, fruit, ice, cold tea, soda water, claret, brandy, 
 and filtered water in a jar or in bottles. These things were all 
 packed in a "tiffin basket," with iron plates and cups enamelled 
 inside. It is a great mistake to drink much when travelling, but 
 soda water and pure water should always be provided, brandy in 
 case of illness, together with claret ; do not trust to getting water 
 at the stations you pass. In India, moreover, never drink water 
 that has not been boiled and filtered ; certainly it should have 
 undergone the latter process. A pocket filter should be part of 
 everybody's kit, man or woman, but I much fear this is the first 
 time I have mentioned it. Readers, however, should do as 
 Captain Cuttle did, " make a note of it," and forgive the omis- 
 sion ; it is an indispensable requisite. Cold tea is an excellent 
 drink in India, especially in the hot weather, when it should be
 
 Travelling up Country. 37 
 
 iced ; yet it must not be made too strong. It is as refreshing a 
 beverage as can be found, and I have known men who drank it 
 during a hard day's shooting in preference to anything else. 
 
 The railway carriages are fairly comfortable, and one is rarely 
 crowded ; the seats turn up to form beds. There is ample space 
 underneath the seats for such luggage as is necessary to have in 
 the carriage with you such as wraps, tiffin baskets, and hand 
 bags. The windows are in many cases made of blue tinted glass, 
 and have jalousies to shelter you from the sun ; the roofs are 
 double, with projecting eaves, and the lamps give a fair light. 
 Each carriage, also, has a retiring room, conveniently furnished 
 with washing stand, water laid on, looking glass, &c. If you travel 
 by night, which should be done as much as possible, some hours' 
 sleep can generally be procured, at least by those who can sleep 
 in a train. I, for one, cannot, and the night journeys in con- 
 sequence always fatigued me ; the nights seemed terribly long, 
 and I felt glad when day broke, for the tedium was then over, 
 and the light gradually appearing re-awakened interest, in that it 
 revealed the dim country round, which became each moment 
 more distinct, showed the tops of trees and the parklike fields, 
 while here and there one caught glimpses of animal life, startled 
 deer, jackals stealing away from the fields, huge birds, and the 
 like ; and as the train passed villages the natives were seen, in 
 their white robes, or else clothed merely in the primitive dhotee, 
 going out to their early labour, driving their cattle before them 
 and taking them to drink. 
 
 Indian railway stations are generally pretty ; little gardens 
 gay with flowers are cultivated around, pots of flowering plants 
 are dotted about, and beautiful creepers twine over the verandahs 
 and roofs of the buildings, The nights, be it remembered, are 
 cold, and you are glad of all the wraps you have brought. Here 
 I would suggest always to have ends of wax candles or else 
 tapers in your bag, with a good supply of matches, for the 
 lamps may go out, as I remember they did one night when 
 we were travelling, and it is not pleasant to be in the dark, 
 especially if the carriage is not filled by your own party. Soap, 
 too, you should have with you, and towels. Various medicines, 
 such as I before advised, should find a place in your bag. 
 Essence of beef tea might also be given room with advantage. 
 A flannel hood, to slip on over the head at night, when lying 
 down and the hat is removed, is a great comfort, and prevents 
 danger from draught and the fear of neuralgia or stiff neck.
 
 38 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 Soon after the sun rises the carriages become hot, and 
 in the colder weather, and by noon, even in February, will 
 be almost unbearable ; but as the sum sinks lower they grow 
 cool again. 
 
 At Jubbulpore Jackson's Family Hotel is fairly good, and 
 has the advantage, if you are travelling with troops, of being 
 near the " rest camp." The comfort of sleeping in bed, with 
 a good wash, and a meal taken at leisure is always appreciated 
 after travelling. 
 
 Jubbulpore is rather prettily situated under a rocky height ; 
 it boasts of three hotels. The one I have mentioned had quite 
 a baronial appearance a large white structure, with verandahs 
 and ornamental columns. The deep verandahs built all 
 round the Indian houses make them look very much larger 
 than they really are. The town boasts a church, a high school, 
 a branch bank, a Government school of industry, a prison, a 
 museum, a library ; various factories for jute, lac dye, and, I 
 believe, opium, and the cantonments are of good size. If you 
 remain a whole day, an excursion would naturally be made 
 to the far-famed " marble rocks." They can be reached in 
 two miles by rail from Mirganj station, and are within a drive 
 of twelve miles from the town. A dak bungalow will be found 
 at the rocks, from which there is a fine view of them ; but 
 take your " tiffin " with you as usual, for though the bungalow 
 boasts a khdnsdmdn (cook), his resources are limited. But you 
 can provide your own refreshment, and while resting and 
 consuming it, gaze down into the depths of the Nerbudda ; it 
 is one of the sacred rivers, and " sulgramas " (sacred pebbles) 
 are found in it. The rocks on each side of the stream are 
 at least 200ft. high in some places, and of pure marble ; they 
 are seen to the greatest advantage by moonlight. But, by 
 day or by night, they are best observed from a boat ; and you 
 can hire one at the place. The rocks, it may be remarked, are 
 infested with monkeys and bees, the latter by far the worse 
 foes of the two. I have not space to linger over the charms 
 of the "marble rocks," but would strongly recommend a rest 
 for a couple of days at Jubbulpore, on purpose to see them. 
 They are well worth a visit, and once seen are not likely to 
 be forgotten. 
 
 From Jubbulpore you will most likely run on to Allahabad, 
 which is 229 miles further. This is a large station. One 
 of the best hotels is Kellner's. I speak from past experience ;
 
 Travelling up Country. 39 
 
 which may be the best now I do not know, but I believe the 
 one named is still open. Allahabad glories in a variety of public 
 buildings churches, a college, theatre, garden, baths, hospital, 
 banks, institute, Government offices, a large cantonment, a 
 bazaar, and a handsome and strongly built fort ; moreover, 
 the new English suburb of Cannings town, with its wide streets 
 well planted with trees, is becoming quite a considerable place. 
 There are various sights in the vicinity which I can only just 
 mention the Jumna Masjid, the mausoleum of the Ranee, 
 the fort, in which is the Eesidency and Akbar's Palace, the 
 Chalee Satoom temple, <fec. 
 
 The military part of the station cantonments is well laid 
 out in fine wide roads, all at right angles, and bordered 
 by beautiful large shady trees. The houses for officers stand 
 separately in squares of ground (compounds), and are some 
 distance apart. The barracks are handsome detached stone 
 buildings of great size, but only hold half a company each. 
 There is also a pretty park, with carefully tended flowers and 
 very fine trees. At Allahabad the Jumna and the Ganges unite, 
 the blue waters of the former mingling with the latter's turbid 
 stream, and the fort stands exactly at the confluence ; it was 
 built about 1575 by the Emperor Akbar. This station is 
 generally occupied by about 1000 European soldiers, a regiment 
 of Bengal cavalry, and one of Native infantry. It is the 
 capital of the North-West Provinces, and the Lieutenant 
 Governor has his seat there. We spent a few days here on our 
 way home very agreeably ; the society, however, is rather 
 civilian than military, and the station is by no means a 
 favourite one with soldiers. 
 
 Cawnpore will probably afford the next break in your journey, 
 unless you go on to Agra ; it is 120 miles from Allahabad, 
 and is a flourishing busy place, a very commercial town, with 
 numerous cotton manufactories, flour mills, &c. ; it is the seat 
 of the leather trade, Cawnpore saddlery being famous all over 
 India. It is a very dusty place, but popular with sportsmen, 
 as good shooting and pig-sticking are to be had round about. 
 Cholera is a very frequent visitor at Cawnpore, and it is certainly 
 not one of the most healthy stations to remain in. Kellner 
 has an hotel here also, and there are three or four others, 
 besides banks, good bazaars, and shops. The well (of terrible 
 memory) is one of the sights of the place. 
 
 From Cawnpore you should run on to Toondla (for Agra),
 
 40 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 some 144 miles, and thence to Agra, thirteen miles, where 
 you may well make up your mind, if you can spare the time, 
 to remain for a few days. There are good hotels Beaumont's, 
 the Eailway, and four or five others but if you have any 
 native servants with you, and a sufficiency of kit, the dak 
 bungalow, which is prettily situated in a sort of park, will 
 be found very much cheaper. We spent a week there on our 
 way down country, but then we had four native servants with 
 us, and were very comfortable, seeing all the sights, being asked 
 to dine out each night by friends, having a carriage lent us, 
 and so forth ; but of course in case of knowing no one in the 
 place, and having no servants engaged, beyond perhaps a bearer, 
 it would be best to go to an hotel and remain there, making 
 excursions at will. Living in an Indian hotel costs about six 
 to eight rupees a day. For this you get four meals at the 
 following times : Tea or coffee at 6 a.m., breakfast at 9 a.m., 
 tiffin at 1 p.m., dinner at 7 p.m. ; and with the use of a general 
 sitting room you have a fair sized bedroom. Wines, spirits, 
 beer, soda water, and other liquors other than water are 
 extras. 
 
 The chief sight at Agra is, of course, the Taj. It is impossible 
 to enter here into a lengthy description of its features ; besides, 
 it needs a pen excelling in the art of word painting to do it any 
 degree of justice ; and, even then, words could give but a faint 
 idea of its surpassing beauty. The purity of its marble walls 
 and minarets ; the rich mosaics of precious stones, agate, jasper, 
 cornelian, &c., with which it is inlaid ; the fretted work, cut out 
 of the solid marble, with which it is everywhere ornamented ; 
 and the chaste style of the whole building make up a picture 
 which it is impossible to describe in language adequate to its 
 merits. The Taj is not likely to fade from the memories of 
 those who have visited it. Seen by daylight it is magnificent, 
 by moonlight it is softly beautiful. Perhaps one of the best 
 views of it is to be had from the fort, which is a fine red granite 
 embattled building on the bank of the river Jumna. The Taj 
 Mehal, seen from the higher portion of the fort, is naturally the 
 most conspicuous object visible, as it is the most attractive; when 
 we saw it the setting sun threw a flood of warm light over the 
 pure marble, giving it at first a golden tinge, and then a warmer 
 reddish glow, while the placid waters of the Jumna, gliding 
 smoothly by at our feet, enhanced the beauty of the scene. It 
 would have formed a study for an artist, though the gorgeous
 
 Travelling up Country. 41 
 
 tints, if reproduced on canvas, would appear almost too brilliant 
 to be real, 
 
 The changes of light and shade towards evening are very 
 varied and rapid in India, so that even whilst we were admiring 
 the lovely view and the warmth and extreme brightness of the 
 colouring, the sun dipped suddenly down, and the wonderful 
 tints we had been revelling in faded as if by magic, the fog 
 rising on the river's banks, and bathing everything in a soft 
 grey mist. It seemed as if a curtain had been lowered over the 
 Taj, so completely was it hidden from our eyes. Within the fort 
 there is much to interest the throne room, judgment hall, Shah 
 Jehan's palace, Shish Mehal, with its gilded cupolas and wonder- 
 ful mosaic work, the Pearl Mosque, the Motee Musjid, of the 
 purest white marble, and the Jumna Musjid, with its three 
 domes. 
 
 Besides the Taj and the fort there are various places to be 
 visited within a drive remains of old palaces, gardens, the 
 Eambagh, and mosques. The tomb of Etmatdowlah is well 
 worth seeing, and there are two very handsome tombs on the 
 Secundra-road ; but these have been converted into schools. The 
 Taj garden is very pretty, the river adding much to its beauty ; 
 but in the attractions of the building itself, one is rather apt to 
 hurry through the garden surrounding it, which is well laid out, 
 and contains shrubs, flowers, grasses, and trees from all parts of 
 the world, and is kept in very good order. 
 
 If sufficient time is allowed in Agra, Futtehpore Sikri, the 
 favourite palace of Akbar, ought to be visited. It is very 
 charming, and there is a dak bungalow there, so that it is 
 possible to spend a few days in this old palace deserted by man, 
 but a paradise of animal life. The birds seem to look upon it as 
 their own; peacocks, parrots, doves, owls, crows, robins, and 
 smaller birds abound, while the most gaudy butterflies, burnet 
 and hawk moths hover among the flowering shrubs. Hares, too, 
 are numerous, and formerly there was excellent shooting to be had ; 
 but probably that is no longer the case. Anyhow, it must be a 
 delightful spot for naturalists to spend a short time in. But I 
 must not linger too long over Agra and its neighbourhood, tempt- 
 ing as it is. Some specimens of soapstone and pietra dura 
 should be bought before leaving. Some of the soapstone boxes 
 are exceedingly pretty and the prices very reasonable from 3 
 rupees each, while models of the Taj may be had from 5 rupees, 
 and so on. The plates are also good and well carved, with
 
 42 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 excellent designs, such as jessamine and mediaeval lilies. The 
 soapstone lends itself well to elaborate carving, and some of 
 the touches, especially in the Taj models, are extremely deli- 
 cate. It is much prized at home, and, if carefully packed, 
 travels well ; even if broken, it can be easily cemented together 
 again. 
 
 From Agra one must return to Toondla junction, some 
 thirteen miles, in order to join the main line, and go thence 
 towards Lahore, which, however, is rather a long, tedious 
 journey, and might well be broken at Umballa, where there is 
 an excellent dak bungalow ; or at Umritzur, if a visit to the 
 Golden Temple, the chief sight of that place, be wished for. 
 
 Lahore is a very large place, the seat of the Lieutenant- 
 Governor, and has many handsome buildings the Lieutenant- 
 Governor's residence, various Government offices, a college, hos- 
 pital, museum, gaol, asylum, the Lawrence Memorial buildings, 
 &c. The city itself is very ancient, and was founded between 
 the first and seventh centuries of the Christian era ; it has 
 a brick wall seven miles in circumference, and a variety of 
 old ruins palaces, gardens, temples, tombs, many of them 
 well worth inspection. The Emperor Jehanghir's mausoleum, 
 across the Eavee, should be visited ; also the Shalimar Gardens, 
 which are about three miles from the military station of Mean 
 Meer. These contain eighty acres ; they are arranged in terraces, 
 and have as many as 450 fountains, most of which, however, 
 are very dilapidated ; the trees are very handsome ; roses are 
 to be found in great profusion, and there are groves of orange 
 and mango trees. Shalimar is much frequented for picnics 
 in the season, and a very enjoyable day may easily be spent 
 there. We drove down, I remember, from Mean Meer, when 
 we were stationed there, and on another occasion went through 
 the native city of Lahore on an elephant, by far the best and 
 most comfortable way of seeing it, dismounting, of course, at 
 the chief places to be visited. 
 
 At Anarkali there is a good club ; there is also a handsome 
 tomb to be seen, and there are several good hotels. A few days, 
 too, can be very well spent at Lahore, if time is no great object. 
 The distance thence to Mooltan is 214 miles, chiefly over 
 dreary desert ; the journey is best taken by night, as there 
 is little to see save miles on miles of arid desert, relieved by 
 vegetation here and there in the shape of tamarisks, castor- 
 oil plants, and date palms. The Indus Valley railway is
 
 Travelling up Country. 43 
 
 now open from Mooltan to Kurrachee, which in my time 
 was not the case. A few more hints before I leave the subject 
 of railway travelling. The engines are fed mostly with wood, 
 so that it is necessary to look out sharply for sparks, which 
 often fly in through the windows. One night we had a railway 
 rug partly burnt from this cause, and if a spark entered while 
 the occupants were asleep the result might be serious. I often 
 wondered why the trains so often made a false start. The 
 engine having set off, it often happens that it is suddenly pulled 
 up with sufficient force to make loosely coupled carriages 
 bump against each other, which, when it goes on at nearly 
 every station, is rather trying to the spine. An air cushion 
 to sit on is, therefore, useful as one of a traveller's "gutree 
 futrees," as small parcels are called. 
 
 To those who cannot sleep, the night journeys, as I have 
 said, are very monotonous. The country as you pass through 
 it has, in the moonlight, a weird appearance, which at first 
 interests, but at last palls terribly ; the desert which has to 
 be traversed from Lahore to Mooltan appears, under the 
 influence of the moon's soft light, less desolate ; it is relieved 
 by scattered palms and tamarisk shrubs, and the long reaches 
 of level sendy plain, looking grey in the moonlight, slip past 
 rapidly. At the stations there is not much to interest ; even the 
 bhistie (water carrier), half asleep, is deaf to the calls for water 
 by the natives in the third-class carriages at the far end of the 
 train, and before these have their wants half satisfied the train is 
 off again, with its irritating preliminary bump, bump, and so 
 the night wears on until Mooltan is reached ; but tedious as 
 this journey is by night, it is worse by day, the heat, even in 
 the coolest season, with the glare and dust, being intolerable. 
 Mooltan station reached, cantonments are at no great distance ; 
 if you have no friends to receive you, the dak bungalow will 
 be found fairly good, and there you must abide while you 
 search for a house, or, rather, a bungalow. 
 
 Mooltan is an ancient city, or at least the native portion, 
 where the fort is situated. It is generally supposed to have 
 been the Malli of Alexander. The fort is a large brick fortress, 
 and has in its enclosure a handsome mosque containing the 
 tomb of Sheik Bahanddeen Zukim, who lived in 1006 A.D. I 
 need not touch here upon the history of the place ; it has, how- 
 ever, played a considerable part in great events, especially in 
 the years 1848 and 1849. The citadel, which was once of
 
 44 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 immense strength, is now much out of repair, and by no means 
 agreeable to be quartered in, with its tiny mud-constructed 
 rooms ; the look-out is, however, pretty. 
 
 Mooltan boasts a church, hospital, central gaol, barracks, 
 bazaars, banks, gardens, &c. The various bungalows are prettily 
 situated, fine trees are planted along the wide roads, and the 
 date palm (Phoenix dactylifera) forms a pleasant feature in the 
 landscape, growing in great abundance all round the neigh- 
 bourhood. The soil, indeed, is very fertile, not destitute of 
 vegetation even in the hot weather, and amply repaying 
 cultivation.
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 SERVANTS. 
 
 First Experiences of Indian Life Selection of Servants Neces- 
 sary Precautions Masters and Mistresses Characteristics 
 of Indian Servants Wages Variety of Servants and their 
 respective Duties Further Observations on Indian Servants 
 Generally Under-rated Their Good Habits How to 
 Treat them. 
 
 I HAVE mentioned Mooltan particularly, because it was there my 
 experiences of Indian life commenced ; but my remarks concern- 
 ing houses, furnishing, servants, &c., apply pretty much to other 
 parts of the Punjab. Bents and wages differ somewhat in 
 different places, and certain allowances must be made ; prices, 
 also, I hear, have risen, since I left India, especially in the 
 matter of servants' wages. I have, therefore, in every case, added 
 a little to the actual cost, in order to allow for the increase. 
 
 The selection of a staff of servants I place before the choice of a 
 bungalow, because already on your journey you will probably 
 have engaged one if not two a bearer and a khitmutgar. It is 
 not advisable to take many servants up country with you, but it is 
 impossible to travel in India with any degree of comfort without 
 at least one ; therefore either a bearer or a khitmutgar you must 
 have if you stop at all en route, as I have suggested you should 
 do. Immediately on landing at Bombay you will be beset 
 with native servants asking to be engaged, but beware of these 
 obtrusive members of the class, for with many of them solicita- 
 tion is part of a designing trade ; their testimonials are forgeries 
 bought in the bazaars for a trifle, and if you rashly took them 
 into your service, they would only stay with you as long as you 
 remained in Bombay, or Calcutta, or whatever port you might 
 land at, and directly you began your journey up country, abscond
 
 46 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 with, anything they could lay their hands on. These must not 
 be taken as examples of the whole class of native servants ; 
 they are scamps who make this proceeding their business, and 
 they try to take in all new comers in the same way. There 
 are thoroughly good servants to be found, as our experience 
 will show. 
 
 The servant question is very much the same the world over, 
 and India is no exception to the rule. There are good servants 
 as well as bad, good masters and mistresses, and the reverse. 
 For my part, I believe servants are pretty much what we choose 
 to make them. I am no adherent to the notion that, as a class, 
 servants are good for nothing, though, if we are to judge from 
 complaints heard at home, they are yearly getting worse. I 
 cannot think it, but one thing I do believe nay, am certain of 
 namely, that too many masters and mistresses treat servants in 
 an improper way, speak to them as if they were beneath notice, 
 except for fault finding, keep them hard at work, grudge them 
 any little pleasure, refuse them all sympathy, and then expect 
 faithful service, and consider themselves ill-used when, after a 
 brief stay, they are quitted. 
 
 This is no highly coloured picture. In most houses nowa- 
 days the shortcomings of domestics form the all-engrossing 
 topic of conversation Jane's and Thomas's delinquencies, cook's 
 impertinence, or "my maid's" insolence or sulkiness it is 
 always the same, and to many inexpressibly wearisome. The 
 question, too, often greets one, " Do you know of a good cook ? 
 mine is so unreliable," &c. " My parlour maid is leaving; do 
 you happen to know one to suit me ?" It is certainly true that 
 servants do not remain so long in their places now as they 
 used. Is all the fault really on their side ? I question it very 
 much. But what, it may be asked, has all this to do with 
 Indian servants ? I answer, much, Indian servants are like 
 English servants. If they are made happy and comfortable, they 
 will be faithful, and often attach themselves to you surprisingly. 
 If they are treated like dogs, cuffed here and kicked there, 
 very naturally they will render you grudging service, will lie, 
 cheat, steal, and circumvent, and think it fair play. 
 
 In the matter of servants, you should certainly not allow 
 yourself to be led by the opinion of others. You will be told 
 that natives are everything that is bad and cannot be trusted. 
 Do not rely on hearsay ; prove for yourself if it is not a case 
 of giving a dog a bad name. All are not black sheep because
 
 Servants. 47 
 
 some may have been found so. I have seen a good deal of 
 native servants, and I know no reason why, from my experience 
 of them, they should not be trusted quite as much as others 
 of their class. 
 
 About ayahs in particular, I have heard most lamentable 
 accounts what lying, cheating, thieving creatures they were 
 in short, a "thorough bad lot;" but I know how often in 
 England I had heard the whole class of servants abused, often 
 without rhyme or reason, and so turned rather a deaf ear to 
 my would-be counsellors. I was very particular about my 
 ayah's character, and I saw the lady she had lived with ; she 
 was by no means blind to her faults, but still gave her a fair 
 character. She remained with me all the time I was in India, 
 travelled over a thousand miles down country with us to 
 Bombay, and only took leave when we went on board, even 
 coming with us on the ship to see where " missee Baba," my 
 little girl, her especial charge, would sleep, and then shed floods 
 of tears at parting. From that woman I had every possible 
 attention. She was most tender and careful in sickness, nursing 
 me through several severe illnesses ; never took the value of 
 a pin's head from me, and would, were I to return to India to- 
 morrow, come back to me, if she were alive, and serve me as 
 faithfully. And all the praise she had from her former 
 mistress was, " Oh ! she's a fair ayah, but just like all the rest 
 will cheat right and left if she has a chance." She had 
 every chance, for we never locked up anything ; but, as I said, 
 I never lost the worth of a pin. 
 
 She was wonderfully handsome, with well formed features, 
 a fine upright figure, and had the most splendid head of hair I 
 ever saw on any woman ; when she stood upright it touched 
 the ground, as it fell around her in waves of raven black ; it 
 was not coarse either, but fine as spun silk. It is rather rare 
 to see a native woman's hair, as they generally plait it tight 
 to the head and hide it under their " sarees ;" but she let hers 
 down one day, on purpose that I might see how long it was. 
 She had bangles, of course, and anklets ; large silver rings on her 
 great toes ; one or two very fine roughly set rubies, in rings, 
 on her fingers ; and a large turquoise, in a plain gold star-like 
 setting, let into the bone of her nose. So much for " Asmi," 
 and a better maid I never wish to have ; gentle, quiet, attentive, 
 careful, and trustworthy in fact, a domestic treasure. 
 
 When she left me I gave her a very good character, which I
 
 48 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 considered she deserved. However, in her next place she did 
 not stay much over a month, and I heard afterwards that she 
 was considered stupid, slow, and sulky. So much for difference 
 of opinion. 
 
 Our bearer, Seethal, by name, was another specimen of a 
 good native servant ; I grant he was a trifle slow, and had a 
 habit of always cleaning the sahib's sword just when wanted 
 for a parade or duty, when it would be all unbuckled, and 
 create delay to put together again. He had been a civilian's 
 servant before he came to us, and it took him some time to 
 learn an officer's ways. He was, however, a most valuable 
 head domestic, thoroughly trustworthy, and kept good order 
 amongst the other servants. We had the highest character 
 with him ; he had been through the Mutiny with a former 
 master, a civilian in high position, and had saved his belong- 
 ings for him when obliged to hide from the fury of the 
 mutineers. 
 
 We engaged him at Allahabad on our way up country from 
 Bombay ; he remained with us during our stay in India, went 
 down country again to see us off on board the Serapis, "the 
 big white ship," as he called it, and then took service with 
 my brother, with whom he remained until his furlough to 
 England, when the old man for he was almost an old man 
 when he came to us, and when he left my brother he was 
 really past service^ went back to his own home. I had quite 
 a respect for Seethal, and was really sorry to bid him good-bye. 
 
 During the Kuka rising, when my husband was obliged 
 to leave me and go out to a camp some miles distant from our 
 station, Seethal used to draw his charpoy (wooden and string 
 bed) across my door, and would, I believe, had occasion arisen, 
 have defended my life with his own. As a rule, no native 
 servants not even the ayahs sleep in the bungalow, but 
 out in their own houses in the compounds, often scarcely within 
 call. Hence it was by no means part of the old man's duty, 
 and was quite his own idea to constitute himself my guard 
 while the sahib was away. 
 
 He was one of the old high caste Hindoos, and I am certain 
 would never prove false to his salt. 
 
 Our table servant, or khitmutgar, had from boyhood been 
 brought up with the regiment, and knowing my husband 
 having, in fact, been his servant when he had been in India 
 before, came to us at once. Kareem Bux was his name, and
 
 Servants. 49 
 
 he, too, remained with us as long as we were in the country, 
 and was as honest and trustworthy as the other two. 
 
 Of course, we had many other servants, one of the social 
 follies of Indian life being that you must keep three to do the 
 work of one. They were mostly of inferior castes, except 
 the khdnsdmdn, or cook ; the first we had was certainly a bad 
 servant, that is to say, dishonest, not a bad cook ; no Indian 
 cooks are bad so far as their profession goes, they are a race 
 of cooks. This man we soon got rid of, and in his place for- 
 tunately obtained a thoroughly good cook and an honest man. 
 
 Out of the tribe of coolies, punkah and garden, " grass cuts " 
 and syces, we had only one or two black sheep, whom we were 
 obliged to discharge, and on the whole, we had no reason to 
 complain, especially as all around us we heard grumblings as to 
 the difficulty of obtaining good servants. I begin to believe that 
 grumbling against servants is a national fault amongst us, and 
 one to which we are yearly more prone. In India servants are 
 one of the chief subjects of conversation, but that may be because 
 there are fewer current topics than at home. 
 
 With regard to wages and duties, the former are rising each 
 year, even the lower servants requiring higher pay pro rdta 
 than when we were in India. So I am told by relatives of 
 mine now in the country. Instead, therefore, of copying my 
 old list from "David's Guide," which was a useful book, much 
 in the style of some of Letts's account books, but not now 
 published, I have added some 20 rupees per mensem, reckoning 
 the upper servants as advanced 2 rupees each, and the lower 
 1 rupee, which ought to allow a fair margin for the present 
 rate of pay : K. A. p. 
 
 Headbearer 10 
 
 Secondditto 900 
 
 Khitmutgar 10 
 
 Ayah 10 
 
 Khansaman 12 
 
 Dhobie 900 
 
 Mehter 500 
 
 Bheestie 800 
 
 Mallee 800 
 
 Syce 800 
 
 Grass cut 600 
 
 Three punkah coolies (6 rupees each) 18 
 
 Tailor 800 
 
 Es. 121 
 About 12 per mensem, reckoning the rupee at its full value. 
 
 E
 
 50 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 The punkah coolies would only be employed during the 
 hot weather, say, for six months. The cost, therefore, of 
 a staff of servants such as I have described would be a little 
 over 135. This seems a large sum to pay for wages only ; 
 but it must be remembered these servants do not feed at their 
 master's expense, neither are they found in clothes. Moreover, 
 as probably two bearers would not be required, and the tailor 
 and mallee might be struck off the list, a saving might be 
 effected of some 30 per annum. 
 
 Among the list of servants previously given I omitted 
 to mention the familiar chokeydar, or watchman, and the 
 chuprassie, or messenger ; but the former is not always kept, 
 neither are messengers, except by those high up in the Civil 
 Service, and the like. 
 
 A chokeydar is kept on the principle of " set a thief to 
 catch a thief." We kept one, but beyond the fact of being 
 on duty every night and making a weird noise at stated 
 intervals, I do not see that he was of much use ; they say, 
 however, that the mere fact of having one is enough to keep 
 thieves from the house, because they are thieves themselves, 
 and thus turn off the rest of the fraternity. Be this as it 
 may, the old man who prowled around our bungalow, and 
 made night hideous with his unearthly yells, was very feeble, 
 and could not have tackled a robber were it needful, but still 
 he prevented us from being molested. The pay of such a 
 watchman would be about 5 rupees a month. 
 
 The duties of the various servants usually employed are 
 much as follows : 
 
 The ayah performs all the offices of a lady's maid as well 
 as of a nurse, if there be children. If she were a Portuguese 
 she would probably be able to wash and get up laces, and 
 possibly do a little other work. Mine was a Hindoo, and did 
 nothing beyond an ordinary ayah's duties. 
 
 A bearer discharges all the functions of a valet for the 
 sahib ; besides which, in the Bengal Presidency, where my 
 experience has chiefly been, he has to look after the other 
 servants, and is, in fact, the butler. To him are usually entrusted 
 articles of value money, jewels, clothes, &c. ; he is also 
 responsible for the plate, and for the general good behaviour 
 of the staff. Generally speaking, he is faithful, and the 
 more trust you put in him the better he will deserve it. I 
 fear the same could hardly be said of all English butlers.
 
 Servants. 51 
 
 Of course, now and then there are instances of dishonesty, 
 but none came under our notice, for we lost nothing except 
 in the case of the cook before mentioned, who stole some 
 money, and was promptly dismissed. 
 
 The khitmutgar's duties are the same as those of a footman 
 or parlourmaid. 
 
 The khansaman is equivalent to an English cook ; moreover 
 he will market for you, and for this reason is usually paid 
 house money every day, in order to go out early in the morning 
 and procure the day's provisions. 
 
 The syce looks after the horse, but will not cut his grass, 
 which is the " grasscut's " business. The dhobie does nothing 
 but wash your clothes and tear them ! The mehter performs 
 the more menial offices of the establishment. The bheestie 
 carries all the water used in the house, and fills the baths 
 and " gurrahs ; " he is usually a high caste man, and can be 
 sent on messages, if a regular chuprassie is not kept. 
 
 It is customary to pay servants once a month, and also to 
 keep them at least that time in arrear. This is no real hard- 
 ship, and should be explained to them as one of your rules when 
 they enter your service. The reason is, that if you pay them 
 up to date you have little or no hold on them, and they may 
 leave you without the least warning, and on the smallest 
 excuse I allude, of course to new servants ; whereas, if you 
 reserve a portion of their wages in your hands, they will 
 not, by leaving suddenly, run the risk of losing it. It is only 
 fair to pay them regularly every month, as in general a native 
 servant has a host of relatives dependent on him. 
 
 They are exceedingly kind to their kith and kin, and in 
 this respect set a good example to those who consider them- 
 selves far above them in the social scale. I am ready to 
 allow that they have faults grave ones too they certainly 
 tell stories, to call them by a mild term, on the smallest 
 provocation, it would seem for the mere delight of telling 
 them ; they are regardless of the value of time, and have to 
 be taught to do things when you want them done, not when 
 they think proper, for they seem to fancy that if you order 
 your horse at such a time, an hour sooner or later can make 
 no difference, which, if you are in a hurry, is, to say the least, 
 rather trying. But they can be cured of these faults if you 
 are determined, and insist on your orders being carried out 
 when you wish. Be firm in all your dealings with them, but 
 
 E2
 
 52 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 temper your firmness with kindness, and do not lapse into 
 severity or familiarity ; treat them with justice and a certain 
 amount of kindly interest, and you will find they will repay 
 you with cheerful, willing service. If they see that you think 
 of them, and endeavour to make them comfortable and happy, 
 they will become attached to you, and show that they are 
 so by many extra services. 
 
 It is the fashion to decry and undervalue native servants, for 
 what reason it would be difficult to say ; in nine cases out of ten 
 only from prejudice, or from having heard them disparagingly 
 spoken of by old Anglo-Indians and contemptuously termed 
 " nigs." It would be easy to multiply instances of their fidelity ; 
 and far from being unscrupulous, they possess a very high sense 
 of honour at least, all the best of the race. They have many 
 admirable qualities. On the march they are simply invaluable 
 no grumbling when told of a long journey in prospect ; rarely do 
 they ask for an advance of pay, even when they might reasonably 
 be supposed to want it, and, as for being selfish, I do not believe 
 they know the word. The sahib and mem-sahib are looked after 
 first of all ; they are never without troops of relatives dependent 
 on them, and in their own estimation they themselves come last. 
 
 It may be thought that I am over-estimating their worth, but 
 I ask any Englishman or woman who really knows India and its 
 people well, if the natives are not habitually undervalued by 
 some of their countrymen ? It is taken for granted that they are 
 all that is depraved and bad, and even those who defend them 
 are jeered at and thought poor silly creatures, who will find out 
 the native character some day. I have known instances in which 
 they have been beaten, kicked, had any missile that came to 
 hand thrown at their heads, and been kept without their 
 wages for months ; and I ask, is it any wonder that now and 
 then the crushed worm turns, if possible robs his master, and 
 decamps with his property ? Treated properly and fairly, Indian 
 servants are quite as good, if not better, than those found in 
 other countries, and if people will only judge for themselves, and 
 refuse to be blinded by prejudice, this they must sooner or later 
 find out, unless they are indeed unfortunate in their selection 
 during the whole time of their stay. Apropos of the remarks I 
 made on our old bearer, Seethal, in this chapter, I have since 
 heard that my brother having gone back to India, the old man 
 found him out and returned to his service. 
 
 You will not, of course, be able to fall in with all the servants
 
 Servants. 53 
 
 you require at once ; but it would be well, before taking posses- 
 sion of your bungalow, to engage the more important i.e., the 
 bearer, khansaman, khitmutgar, ayah, mehter, and bheestie. 
 The others you must look out for and procure by degrees. 
 When new comers arrive in a station they are generally soon 
 found out by such servants as are in want of a place. A good 
 plan on first arrival is to inquire if any families are leaving, and 
 if they are parting with their servants. In such a case very good 
 servants are often to be obtained. 
 
 After you have examined the chits or testimonials which the 
 natives in search of places bring with them, and you feel 
 inclined to engage them, endeavour, before doing so, to obtain 
 an interview with their previous employers. This, however, 
 is not often to be had, because, generally speaking, they have 
 gone home, or to the hills, and given their servants written 
 characters. If they have not left the country you can possibly 
 obtain by writing all you desire to know. You will more 
 usually, however, have to depend on the written characters, 
 and these, if you engage the holders, should be kept in your 
 own possession to refer to until you part company again, when 
 you, in turn, will have to give a testimonial, unless you have 
 discharged them for some serious fault, in which case they 
 would not ask for a chit. It is naturally a matter of risk to 
 engage a native on his written character only, for it may have 
 been merely borrowed or bought in the bazaar for the occasion, 
 a certain class of persons in India earning their living by 
 dishonestly writing and selling these characters. Again, very 
 often owing to laziness, masters and mistresses are not suffi- 
 ciently particular in giving a character ; though this fault, it 
 must be confessed, is not peculiar to India. In giving chits, 
 a personal description is one remedy against their being stolen 
 or borrowed and used by other persons ; and it is also a guide 
 in choosing servants, because, if the description and the personal 
 appearance of the applicant tally, you are not so likely to be 
 deceived ; thus, age, height, general personal appearance, 
 condition, and any distinctive marks should all be mentioned 
 as characteristics, by which the holder of the chit may be 
 recognised. 
 
 Servants naturally differ a good deal in the three Presidencies ; 
 they belong to different races, and are known under different 
 names. In Bombay there are a great many native Portuguese, 
 Hindoos, and Mussulmans, besides a number of Eurasians.
 
 54 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 In Calcutta a mixture is found of all the castes and grades in 
 India ; and in Madras, besides those named, are a number of 
 native Christians. Give preference to those servants who do 
 not speak much English they will be found much better, as 
 a rule, than those who do. 
 
 In paying wages, make the payments yourself, unless you 
 can thoroughly depend on your bearer to do so ; the servants, 
 however, are far better satisfied if paid by the sahib, and 
 besides, pay day is an opportunity for saying a few words of 
 commendation, or the reverse.
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 BUNGALOWS. 
 
 Rent Precautions Native Landlords External Appearance of 
 the Buildings Water Internal Arrangements. 
 
 THE rent of a house, or bungalow, as it is called, depends very 
 much on locality, and of course on the size of the building. In 
 towns it is higher than at small stations. For a small bungalow 
 at a large station from 40 to 50 rupees per month would be 
 asked ; for one of moderate size, from 60 to 90 rupees ; and for 
 extra large buildings, from 300 to 500 rupees per month. These 
 large bungalows are rarely taken except by wealthy civilians or 
 mili tary officers high in the service, who require very large estab- 
 lishments. At up-country stations the rents would be rather 
 lower than those I have named ; and for about 80 rupees (8) 
 you would get a very good-sized bungalow. The accompanying 
 illustration of the ground plan will give an idea of the way in 
 which such houses are built. They have hardly ever upstair 
 accommodation, except in towns, being only one storey high ; and 
 the rooms all open into each other and into the verandahs which 
 run round. The pillars supporting the roofs of the verandahs 
 are spanned by arches, and the intervals filled with wide blinds 
 (chics) made of bamboo. 
 
 It will be seen from this ground plan how many doors there 
 are. They are partly of glass, and therefore muslin blinds are 
 required to stretch across them, and they are also furnished with 
 blinds (chics) of reed, which in the hot weather serve for doors, 
 and are as often rolled up as not, but are lowered when it is 
 wished to screen the openings from the verandah. Those doors 
 which open from the outside straight into the living rooms are 
 fitted during the hot weather with mats made of a sweet- 
 smelling grass, khus-khus by name, often spelt CMS-CMS, the mats
 
 56 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 made from it being called " cus-cus tatties," and used for the 
 purpose of cooling the heated atmosphere in dwelling houses 
 during the hot winds. They are fitted to those doors facing the 
 direction of the wind, and are kept wet by means of water 
 
 K 
 
 ! ginmmiiuim|iiuiniiuni:><:iiimi miTxriiiiiiimiiiiiii - 
 
 I'n 
 
 P 
 
 J P i 
 M 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 B 
 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 D 
 
 
 
 h 
 
 B 
 
 jm d. 
 
 
 IF 
 
 n B 
 
 H 
 
 K 
 
 GROUND PLAN OF BUNGALOW. 
 
 A Drawing-room. A A Bay Window. B Bedrooms. D Dressing- 
 rooms. E Bathrooms. F Dining-room. G Godowns. H Hall. 
 I Chic Entrance. J Verandahs. K Arches on Verandahs. 
 
 dashed on them from outside, the hot air which is drawn through
 
 Bungalows. 57 
 
 them by the action of the punkah being cooled by passing through 
 the wet grass. 
 
 To return to the general subject : 7 or 8 a month seems a 
 good deal to pay for rent, for the exterior of the building is 
 rarely agreeable to the eye a square mud house, badly painted 
 outside, and in colours which would make the aesthetic shudder 
 bright yellow, glaring white no sweet subdued low-toned tints, 
 but all harsh and crude. Within the bare walls there is plenty 
 of scope for decorative ideas and artistic ornamentation, but the 
 Indian climate is scarcely one in which to indulge fads and 
 fancies, if they have to be carried out by the originator. 
 
 In the choice of a bungalow there are several things to be 
 considered, unless the station in which you find yourself be 
 deficient in houses, in which case you may have to put up with 
 what you can get. In the first place, the situation should be 
 high and tolerably open. A few trees are an advantage in a 
 compound, but too many are the reverse, because they keep off 
 the air from the house. The huts of the native servants should 
 never be too near, and I should reject any bungalow which had 
 this disadvantage. There should be a large deep well in the 
 compound in perfect repair, and containing a good supply of 
 water. Have some drawn up to taste, and test it with your 
 pocket filter. Good water is a sine qua non everywhere ; in India 
 especially you should be sure of having it good, and enough of it 
 for all purposes, both for house requirements and for the garden, 
 if you cultivate it, as I should most strongly advise you to do if 
 you remain some time in one station. 
 
 External arrangements first seen to, you should narrowly 
 inspect the interior of the building. If it wants white-washing 
 or re-staining have it done before you enter on possession, or you 
 will find life a burden from insects of various unpleasant kinds. 
 See that the walls are quite firm and dry, that the beams and 
 woodwork are not eaten by white ants, and choose a house with 
 the rafters of the roof visible rather than one which has a 
 canvas ceiling, for if this latter is the case you will run the 
 danger of being disturbed by rats, squirrels, and the like. 
 The space between roof and ceiling is a favourite retreat of 
 animals and birds, and they will make night sleepless by their 
 various cries and frolicsome gambols overhead. This will, in a 
 certain measure, be the case even with an open roof, but then 
 you can hunt the enemy out, which otherwise you could not. 
 
 Keep your landlord very strictly to any terms you may make
 
 58 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 with respect to the alterations or repairs which you wish done. 
 Before you enter your new abode supposing you have found 
 one you like refuse to sign any document until he has done all 
 he promised, and then see that the conditions respecting rent, 
 repairs, &c., are most particularly and carefully stated, and have 
 your signature witnessed by three, or at least two witnesses. So 
 many disputes and misunderstandings arise on such subjects, 
 more especially with native landlords, that one cannot be too 
 careful. In one instance I remember ours was a native landlord, 
 and was most tiresome about repairs. Time was of no account 
 with him, and he once told my husband, when remonstrating 
 with him, "that he expected things done as with a magic wand." 
 He was Parsee and spoke English. The well was one great 
 source of discomfort to us, as he would not keep it in good 
 repair ; and we had not looked quite as narrowly after it as we 
 ought to have done when taking the bungalow. I mention this 
 as a hint that others may learn to be more particular than we 
 were.
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 FURNISHING. 
 
 Carpets Matting White Ants Their Destructiveness Preven- 
 tion Scinde Hugs Hangings Furniture and Fittings 
 Anglo-Indian Furniture Sales A Catalogue of Requirements 
 General Domestic Appointments. 
 
 WHEN you have finally decided on your house, you must see 
 about the chics and matting for the arches, windows, and floors, 
 for these are the first things required. Measure the arches of 
 the verandah for the large chics, and the doors of the rooms for 
 the small and finer kind. Neither sort is expensive, the former 
 costing from 8 annas (Is.) to 1 rupee 8 annas (3s.) each, and the 
 latter from 8 annas to 1 rupee each. 
 
 The rooms are never floored, as white ants would soon destroy 
 boards. The flooring is made of mud, well baked (chunam). This 
 makes a hard smooth surface when well laid, and is easily kept 
 clean by sweeping. Two kinds of matting are usually spread over 
 the rooms ; one, the uppermost, of fine China kind, the other, 
 beneath it, of a coarser description. Where carpets are laid 
 down, as in drawing and dining rooms, the finer matting can be 
 dispensed with, but in its place a coarse cloth, previously soaked 
 in a solution of corrosive sublimate in the proportion of lib. to 
 three gallons of water, should be laid beneath the carpet or 
 dhurrie, as this will prevent the white ants, sworn enemies to 
 carpets, from destroying it. If the cloth is dyed with indigo it 
 will have the same effect. The matting for an ordinary sized 
 house will cost from 60 to 80 rupees, that is if you have two 
 kinds one on top of the other. We contented ourselves with 
 one sort, if I remember aright, and had dhurries in the drawing 
 room and dining room. Bedrooms and dressing rooms should be 
 matted all over with rugs in front of dressing tables and beds.
 
 o Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 Our rugs were of the kind thought so much of in England now 
 Scinde rugs. It is a great mistake to carpet a bedroom. 
 Bugs you can have moved and shaken daily, and thus be sure 
 they are not hiding places for insects. 
 
 The carpets which are made in the gaols are the most useful, 
 and wear very well. Their price varies with size from 20 
 to 60 rupees would be the general price for gaol dhurries. 
 They are made in squares, the ends finished off with fringe, and 
 are generally woven in stripes, indigo blues, greys, or browns, 
 relieved with very narrow red or orange stripes, not bright 
 colours by any means, but agreeably low toned. These common 
 dhurries have no pattern, like the more expensive " oriental " 
 carpets, and are only meant for rough wear. Yet they are not 
 unornamental, the colours being always in good taste. 
 
 If, while in India, you chance to light on a carpet of really 
 good old Indian design, unless it is very expensive, and beyond 
 your means, purchase it at once. Look on it in the light of 
 an investment, and bring it home with you. Unfortunately, 
 we English are spoiling the Indian carpet industry. The old 
 low-toned tints, worked in exquisitely artistic designs, are being 
 superseded by bright glaring colours , aniline dyes are creeping 
 in, and such horrors as magenta, vivid greens, crude blues, 
 &c., appear now in most Indian stuffs. Far from improving 
 on Eastern colours and taste, we are rapidly doing our best 
 to ruin both. 
 
 When you have put up the chics and put down the matting 
 and dhurries, then your bungalow will begin to look a little 
 ship-shape, though still very empty and bare. Some say eschew 
 curtains of all kinds, even in your drawing room and dining 
 room ; but with this I cannot agree, for, without them, your 
 rooms can never look cosy or inhabitable. I hold this view 
 as far as bedrooms are concerned, as there I think they are 
 unnecessary ; but, if you do not drape the high door-like 
 windows of the chief rooms in the house, you will never get 
 rid of the comfortless unfurnished look. 
 
 We had chintz curtains and lace, which we took out from 
 England with us. I advised, in a former chapter, those married 
 people intending to settle in India for some time to do the same. 
 I will suppose that the advice was followed, and that you have 
 chintz or cretonne sufficient for curtains and coverings. These 
 you can get made up by a durzee, who will sit in your verandah 
 and work all day under your direction. In India you can
 
 Furnishing. 61 
 
 buy basketwork chairs and sofas very reasonably, and these, 
 wadded with ruhi (cotton), covered with a coarse sort of cotton 
 cloth first of all, and then with the chintz, make very good 
 easy lounges. You will also have your deck chairs and cushions 
 you brought out for use on the voyage ; and if you are fortunate, 
 and there is a sale going on in the station soon after your 
 arrival, you will be able to pick up such necessary articles as 
 ordinary chairs, tables of various kinds, beds, almirahs (ward- 
 robes), &c. Nearly all these things, with the exception of 
 the beds, will be made of toon wood, which is very serviceable 
 for furniture. The tree from which it is obtained is called 
 cedrela toona, and grows to some 60ft. in height. The timber 
 is very like mahogany indeed, it is often called Indian 
 mahogany ; it is, however, lighter in colour and not so close 
 in the grain, though still a close-grained, dense, hard red wood ; 
 it takes a very high polish, and is valuable in India because 
 it is not subjected to worms, does not warp, and is very durable. 
 It grows in dry deciduous forests up to 4000ft. elevation, and 
 is known by the natives in different parts of India under 
 different names. The colour improves much with age. When 
 new it is rather too red, but frequent polishing and rubbing 
 removes this fault. A good strong toon wood table will have 
 seen the inside of most of the houses in a station probably 
 before you become its possessor, for people never dream of taking 
 their furniture with them from place to place as we do at 
 home. Before one station is left for another, all bulky articles 
 are sold off without reserve ; the owner makes out a list of what 
 he intends to sell, puts what he considers a fair price on each 
 article, and sends the list by a chuprassie the round of the 
 station. Those who see the list and fancy anything mentioned 
 in it, write their names against it, and pay the price for it 
 when it is given over. 
 
 This simple method of selling off furniture holds good in 
 most Indian stations ; the things change owners with very little 
 trouble, and in most cases at fair prices. In the case of English 
 goods, glass, china, and the like, the full value is very nearly 
 always fetched, so that before your return home, you can 
 count on disposing of all the articles you brought out that 
 you do not wish to keep. In buying before starting for India, 
 this fact should be borne in mind, and your numerous purchases 
 looked on in the light of investments, for which you will be able 
 to recoup yourself in the end.
 
 62 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 I have now by me our list of sale, with the prices the things 
 
 fetched when we sold them off, and I have been able to give 
 many hints on these and similar matters to people going out 
 who have asked my advice. 
 
 The following would be fair prices to give in buying when 
 furnishing your house : 
 
 Rup. An. 
 
 A drawing-room round table, toon wood, of course 20 
 
 A large easy chair, toon wood 10 
 
 Ordinary chairs (each) 4 
 
 Small easy chairs (wicker work) (each) 5 
 
 Sofa or lounge chair 15 
 
 Fair size dhurrie 35 
 
 Smaller dhurrie 20 
 
 Small table (5 o'clock tea) (each) 6 
 
 Sidetable 12 
 
 Dining table 20 
 
 Almirah (wardrobe) (large) 25 
 
 Almirah (wardrobe) (small) 15 
 
 Folding screen 20 
 
 Dressing tablo 10 
 
 Cane chairs (each) 3 
 
 Bed with poles, mosquito curtains, &c 20 
 
 Small ditto 15 
 
 Washstand (complete) 18 
 
 Smallditto 12 
 
 Towel horse 2 
 
 Large looking glass 10 
 
 Small ditto 6 
 
 Bath (wood) 8 
 
 Commode 8 
 
 Tattietub 1 
 
 Icebox 8 
 
 Meat safe 6 
 
 Filter stand 3 
 
 Kitchen table 6 
 
 Set of dechsies (cooking pots) 25 
 
 Oven 5 
 
 Kettle 5 
 
 Pestle and mortar 3 
 
 Spit 8 
 
 Spoon 8 
 
 Knife 1 
 
 Frying-pan 2 
 
 Chopper 8 
 
 Pantry table 4 
 
 Dhobie's table 4 
 
 Gauff ring irons 1 8 
 
 Common stools (to be covered), each 8 
 
 Handpunkah 3
 
 Furnishing. 63 
 
 Saddle stand 4 
 
 Water jars (large), each 1 
 
 Ditto small, each 8 
 
 Mats for bath room, each 2 
 
 Square of cocoa-nut matting 5 
 
 Our furniture, with chics, tatties, matting, &c., cost us a little 
 over 600 rupees (60), but then we did not furnish all the 
 rooms in the bungalow, and took out curtains and coverings of 
 various kinds with us, glass, china, plate, &c. 
 
 The punkahs spoil the look of any room, but they are neces- 
 sary evils, and if you wish to be at all comfortable in the hot 
 weather, must be put up with. The vallance is put on full, and 
 is made of some white or ecru washing material ; it can be 
 edged with a bind of the colour prevailing in the room, which, 
 I think, should be a low-toned green, as affording most rest to 
 the eye. Punkahs are provided by the landlords of all bun- 
 galows, and are his property ; he provides also the cords, but the 
 vallances you must furnish yourself. By dint of hanging up 
 photographs, pictures, brackets for odds and ends of china, 
 Japanese scrolls, having books and papers about, and a piano, 
 which you can hire in most stations, a room can be made fairly 
 pretty. A bright rug or two here and there, either on the 
 matting or dhurrie ; a covered mantelpiece board, with lace or 
 crewel worked border, and a glass in a plain velvet setting above 
 it, with a few quaint ornaments about, will add much to the 
 habitable look of an Indian room. But ia hanging all pictures, 
 scrolls, velvet covered brackets, or the glass above mentioned, 
 let them stand out from the wall, so as not to touch it, for if 
 they do the white ants will assuredly make a meal off them. 
 Crewel-worked cloths which are washable, for the tables, and 
 coverings for the sofa and chair cushions, also give a more 
 finished look to a room. 
 
 In many cases the drawing and dining rooms are only divided 
 by a wide arch, which requires to be fitted up either by a large 
 folding screen or a purdah (curtain) hung by rings on a pole. 
 
 It is also usual to have purdahs hung over all the doors which 
 open from the bedrooms into the drawing and dining rooms. 
 These look well when they match the window curtains and 
 coverings. In choosing cretonne or chintz for this purpose (it 
 would have to be lined to make it thick enough), I should give 
 the preference to an oriental sort of pattern, which would look 
 rich without being too hot or heavy ; have it not too light in
 
 64 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 colour, or it will become dirty too soon. Lace curtains will 
 relieve the look of rather dark colours, and really, in India, the 
 darker your rooms are, in reason, the more cool and comfortable 
 they are to the inmates. 
 
 A square of matting, strongly bound, or a small dhurrie, will 
 be found very useful for taking out in the compound, to spread 
 on the ground underneath your chairs, in the evenings when you 
 sit out to take your after dinner coffee. It is also very useful on 
 the march.
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 HO USEKEEPING . 
 
 Cost of Living General Augmentation of Prices Diminution 
 of Salaries Increase of Luxury English Equivalents of 
 Indian Currency Weights and Measures Choice of Food 
 Marketing Butchers' Meat " Mutton Clubs " Native 
 Cooking Kitchen Expenses. 
 
 THE cost of living in India has increased considerably of late 
 years, and is still increasing, especially in the large towns, 
 Bombay, Calcutta, Madras, &c. Numerous causes go to account 
 for the increase, and the consequences to Europeans in India are 
 decidedly serious. 
 
 The competition of the nineteenth century makes the struggle 
 to exist much harder than in days gone by. We do not now 
 hear of " fat fortunes " being made in a few years, and of men 
 returning to their native country to spend the wealth they have 
 amassed. In these days there are far too many candidates in 
 the field for fortune making, and India is for the English no 
 longer the El Dorado it once was. 
 
 Eurasians and educated natives now compete with Europeans 
 for vacant offices, and the salaries for coveted berths are lowered 
 by the fact that skilled labour is cheaper I include mental and 
 brain work under the general head of labour. The market for 
 this sort of ware is becoming almost as glutted in India as at 
 home, and even to the man clever in his profession I am not 
 now alluding to the Services there is considerable difficulty 
 in obtaining good appointments. 
 
 It is so easy, comparatively speaking, to take a run home to 
 England to refresh the enfeebled constitution, and then go out 
 again, that the climate is not looked on with the dread it once 
 was. Consequently men flock out from England, and for every 
 Englishman in India in the old days, when it took many months 
 
 r
 
 66 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 to get there, ten or more, I venture to say, might now be found. 
 And what does this mean but the same race for any vacant 
 appointment as goes on at home, the same fight for place or 
 living, and with very often the same result disappointment ? 
 
 Salaries which forty or fifty years ago would have provided 
 well for the men receiving them are now insufficient for family 
 men, at least. The cost of living has increased ; it is the 
 fashion for wives to "go to the Hills," even if their health does 
 not really require the change ; the native servants ask more 
 wages ; that bugbear to the Englishman, dustoor, in other words, 
 custom, adds to the expenses of Europeans, while filling the 
 pockets of natives, dealers and servants alike, and housekeeping 
 is thereby rendered a more difficult task than ever. It therefore 
 behoves everyone, especially on first settling in India, to be 
 careful in the way of commencing living. 
 
 As a preliminary duty, the comparative values of the silver 
 and copper coinage should be thoroughly well learnt. Do not 
 start with an idea that because the rupee is equivalent to 2s. it 
 will really go . as far as that sum would at home. That is a 
 fallacy of which the sooner you disabuse your mind the better. 
 
 'The following table of the equivalents of Indian money may 
 be found useful. The standard currency of continental India 
 consists of silver. There is hardly a gold coin in circulation ; 
 now and then a gold mohur is met with, but it is looked on 
 rather as a curiosity. It is worth 16 rupees, or 32s., and weighs 
 180gr. Troy. There are also gold coins called pagodas and 
 fanams in the southern provinces, but they are very rarely seen 
 out of collections. 
 
 The standard coin of British India is the silver rupee. It is 
 the legal medium of circulation, but its exchange value varies 
 with the money market. Some twenty-five years ago it rose 
 above 2s., but it has decreased since then, with fluctuations, being 
 as low in 1878-9 as Is. 9d. The copper coins are the anna, the 
 pice, and the pie; and the silver, the 4-anna piece, or of a rupee, 
 the 8-anna piece, or of a rupee, and the rupee itself. Thus : 
 
 s. d. 
 
 1 pie 0| 
 
 3 pie (1 pice) Of 
 
 4 pice (1 anna) 1| 
 
 4 annas (i rupee) 006 
 
 8 annas (i rupee) 010 
 
 16 annas (1 rupee) at par 020 
 
 1 lakh (100,000 rupees) 10,000 
 
 1 orore (100 lakhs) 1,000,000
 
 Housekeeping. 67 
 
 There is also a paper currency (authorised) for sums of 
 5 rupees upwards to 10,000 rupees. Notes are issued from the 
 head offices in Bombay, Calcutta, Madras, and in some of the 
 large cities, as Lahore, Allahabad, Kurrachee, Nagpore, &c. 
 
 Having mastered the coinage, you must acquaint yourself with 
 the tables of weights and measures, as you will find such know- 
 ledge useful in giving out stores and in the culinary department 
 generally. When I was in India, a very useful diary was pub- 
 lished quarterly, called " David's Household and Commercial 
 Guide," which contained a great deal of valuable information. 
 I wrote for one last year, but found they were no longer pub- 
 lished, and I do not know if any other kind have taken their 
 place. They gave all the tables which such books usually do, 
 and for housekeepers, especially new comers, were useful acqui- 
 sitions. I extract from an old one the 
 
 BAZAAR WEIGHT. 
 
 4 Siki or quarters make 1 Tolah. 
 
 5 Tolahs make 1 Chittack. 
 4 Chittacks make 1 Pauwa. 
 
 4 Pauwas make 1 Seer. 
 
 5 Seers make 1 P&sseri. 
 
 8 Passeries or 40 Seers make 1 Mannd. 
 
 The bazaar seer = 21b. Ooz. 13dr. The factory seer = 
 lib. 13oz. 14dr. A maund of oil would be sixteen bottles, 
 821b. going to what is termed a bazaar maund; a factory 
 maund is less, about 741b. lloz. 
 
 Meal, charcoal, vegetables, fish, ghee, sugar, brass and copper 
 goods are all sold by the seer; hay and grass by the pullah 
 (dry measure). 
 
 Accounts should be very strictly kept, even more so, if pos- 
 sible, than at home. I settled my khansaman's bill each day ; 
 some people do this weekly, but it is impossible to check off 
 the items correctly, at least so I found, unless I made it a daily 
 business, and when once I got into the way it really took but 
 little time. I never gave the man the money to expend, but 
 made him get the things and pay for them himself, paying him 
 again. Thus at night he came in for the mem-sahib's orders 
 for next day, and then he could start off as early as he liked 
 to the bazaar and make his purchases. After breakfast he 
 appeared in the drawing room neatly dressed in his white 
 cupras (clothes), bringing his bill for the preceding day ; this 
 
 F2
 
 68 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 I checked off, entering each item in my book, and paying for 
 the whole. At first I found it irksome, knowing so little of 
 the language, and not being able to make out what the man 
 meant, but, in time, it became easy enough, and practice makes 
 perfect. 
 
 You can keep a good check on the price of the various articles 
 the man buys by comparing the prices he charges you with those 
 of the monthly "bazaar tariff," a copy of which you must pro- 
 vide yourself with. The prices ruling in the bazaar are fixed 
 by the master of it and by the magistrate of the station, so that 
 by comparing the list with your bills you will soon see if your 
 man is endeavouring to cheat you or not. 
 
 Meat is very bad in India I mean beef and mutton. To 
 obtain the latter good, the only plan is to belong to a " mutton 
 club." Bread is best obtained, if you are military, at the com- 
 missariat, being that which is served out to the soldiers. The 
 same may be said of the meat. Vegetables are cheap and 
 plentiful, and, if you do not cultivate a bit of garden, they 
 can be procured without much trouble ; so with game, fish of 
 various kinds, and fruit. It is tolerably easy to make out a 
 bill of fare, except in the very height of the hot weather, when 
 nothing will keep good ; these are the sad times for house- 
 keepers who know not how to vary the diet or tempt the jaded 
 appetite, which literally revolts at the sight of fresh meat 
 really fresh meat for you must eat it the same day it is killed, 
 or not at all. 
 
 The kitchen in India is always some little distance from the 
 house ; it is usual to visit it once a day to see that all is as it 
 should be, that the bdwarchi-khdna has been swept and gar- 
 nished, and that the cooking utensils (dechsies) are clean and 
 bright. These will require to be re-tinned inside at least once 
 a month, as, being of copper, it would be dangerous to leave 
 them longer. From 12 annas to 2 rupees would be the charge 
 for performing this operation, according to the number of the 
 pots and pans to be done, but sometimes as much as 2 rupees 
 8 annas is charged for an extra quantity. After the morning 
 visit to your kitchen it is not usual to go out again to it during 
 the day. The native ways are not as our ways, and the less 
 you see of them over their cooking operations the more appetite 
 you will have for the food set before you. They are very good 
 cooks ; excellent dishes of all kinds they can produce made 
 dishes, sweets, cakes, &c. ; only do not be too curious as to the
 
 Housekeeping. 69 
 
 ways and means by which the result is attained. The dish 
 may be so nice that you would like to know exactly how it is 
 made. Get your khansaman to tell you how he prepares it, 
 and write down the ingredients and quantities of each as he 
 names them ; this is how I used to do ; but never mind over- 
 looking him at his work. Let the fact that it is done, and well 
 done, suffice, or you may never again care to look at that 
 particular dainty. Natives' ways in cooking are not by any 
 means nice, in fact, very often extremely nasty; therefore do 
 not seek to know too much.
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 EATING AND DRINKING. 
 
 Family Means General Remarks Variation of Fare Wines 
 and other Drinks Warning against Stimulants Danger 
 from Unfiltered Water The Delhi Boil Importance of 
 the Indian Morning Meal Indian Tea, Coffee, and Dairy 
 Produce Preparation Dishes. 
 
 I WOULD advise all housekeepers in India to furnish themselves 
 at first with a blank book, in which to enter the breakfasts, 
 luncheons, and dinners they order on one side, and the price of 
 each item opposite. 
 
 By this means not only can you avoid having the same dishes 
 for each meal too frequently, but you will know what each dish 
 costs, and how much the day's expenditure ought to be. You 
 will also have merely to glance at your book if in doubt what to 
 have. I do not mean, of course, that you will do this every day 
 of your life, but for a few months or so, and then afterwards 
 add any new dishes your khansa"man makes, or your menus for 
 your dinner parties, if you have them. 
 
 In India you have, during the hot weather more especially, 
 plenty of time, and the more you employ yourself in house- 
 keeping matters the less long the days will seem. Moreover, 
 you will in after years, when you are home again, have your 
 books to turn to, and from them be able to help any of your 
 friends who may be going out, or answer questions relative to 
 India asked in papers. I have found my rough note books of 
 the greatest service to me in many ways. 
 
 I give one or two dinner menus from them ; these are not for 
 dinner parties, but only the ordinary bills of fare just for a 
 married couple and perhaps a friend for friends very often drop 
 in to dinner in India "quite promiscuously," especially bachelor 
 friends.
 
 Eating and Drinking. 71 
 
 MENU I. 
 
 FIRST COURSE. 
 
 Soap. Green Peas (Belatee mutter). 
 
 Small hump of beef (boiled). 
 
 Vegetables Potato (Aloo) chips. 
 
 Borecole. 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 
 Teal (Sulee) Boasted. 
 Mango-fool. Cheese straws. 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 Any fruit in season. 
 Coffee. 
 
 The cost of this dinner would be about 2r. 6a., including 
 the purchase of vegetables, supposing you have no garden, 
 together with peas for the soup. These should be fresh, not 
 tinned : 
 
 R. A. 
 
 Vegetables 6 
 
 Beef 1 
 
 Teal 4 
 
 Mangoes 2 
 
 Limes 1 
 
 Milk 2 
 
 Butter 1 
 
 Dessert 6 
 
 2 6 
 Here is another family menu : 
 
 MENU H. 
 
 FIRST COURSE. 
 Fish (mutchlee) Chilwars. 
 
 (These are small fish not unlike our whitebait ; they are fried on sticks, 
 about a dozen or so on one stick, and should be fried a light brown 
 colour. They are not taken off the sticks to serve, but sent up on them, 
 and fresh green limes and very thin bread and butter brought to table 
 with them). 
 
 Small shoulder or leg of gram-fed mutton. 
 Vegetables (subjee), potato balls, cauliflowers (fool Icobee).
 
 7-2 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 
 Quails (butter). 
 
 (Boasted they are best stuffed with green chillies, wrapped in vine 
 leaves, and served with a good clear gravy and fresh green limes. Some 
 people like bread sauce with them). 
 
 Dates and Custard. 
 
 (This is a dish I never met with anywhere, so I suppose I may lay 
 claim to its invention. Stone and wash some fresh and quite ripe dates ; 
 bruise them until they become pulpy ; then lay them in the bottom of a 
 glass dish, and pour over them a rich custard. Eaten when quite cold, 
 this is a very good dish for a family party, and, if ornamented with 
 blanched almonds, cut into narrow strips, is quite presentable for any 
 occasion). 
 
 Cheese Fondu. 
 
 Dessert and coffee. 
 
 The cost of this dinner would be 3r., or rather more, say 
 3r. 6a., thus : 
 
 B. A. 
 
 Fish 4 
 
 Mutton (if gram fed) 1 8 
 
 Quail 4 
 
 Vegetables 4 
 
 Dates 2 
 
 Eggs 2 
 
 Milk 2 
 
 Butter 2 
 
 Cheese 2 
 
 Limes 1 
 
 Chillies 1 
 
 Dessert 6 
 
 3 6 
 MENU III. 
 
 Vegetable marrow (dill pussund) soup. 
 
 Curried mutton. 
 (An Indian cook's idea of curry is very different from that of an English 
 
 cook's). 
 
 Boiled fowl and mushroom sauce. 
 
 Mashed potatoes. Brinjals. 
 
 Almond puffs. 
 
 Cheese toast. 
 
 Dessert. Coffee.
 
 Eating and Drinking. 73 
 
 Cost about 2r., thus : 
 
 R. A. 
 
 Vegetables, including vegetable marrow for soup... 6 
 
 Curry 4 
 
 Fowl 6 
 
 Almonds 4 
 
 Cheese 2 
 
 Eggs 2 
 
 Milk 2 
 
 Butter 2 
 
 Dessert 4 
 
 2 
 
 It is comparatively easy to vary these menus each day in the 
 cold season, but when the hot weather sets in it becomes a 
 matter of considerable difficulty. Then, however, people have 
 no great appetites, and the breakfast is the best meal not the 
 chota hazaree, or small early breakfast, taken just before you 
 ride, or when you return from it as the case may be, but the 
 more substantial one about nine or ten o'clock, to which your 
 friends often drop in, your gentlemen friends more especially. 
 In the hot weather this is the meal to exercise your talents on, 
 and I intend to devote considerable space to it ; fish, omelets, 
 new ways of dressing eggs, cunningly-contrived toasts, fresh 
 fruits, and so on, should be plentifully provided for; as a rule, 
 in the hot weather, this is the one repast eaten with appetite 
 during the whole day. Luncheon becomes wearisome, five 
 o'clock tea bores you, and late dinner is a positive gene; but a 
 hearty breakfast you can often indeed, generally do^eat if 
 appetising viands are provided. 
 
 To do this meal full justice, however, you must not rise direct 
 from your bed to partake of it, but come in fresh from your 
 morning ride, if you are a lady ; from your military or civilian 
 duties, if you are a man. The heat of the climate is apt enough 
 to produce laziness, lassitude, and ennui, and the fight against its 
 enervating influence is by no means a light one ; but those who 
 do so fight gain a substantial reward health. There is plenty 
 to do, even in India, in the hot weather, if people would only 
 believe it, and believe also that employing the mind, if it is too 
 hot to employ the body actively, is the one way of getting 
 through a hot season with any degree of comfort to themselves 
 or those around them. Bead, make notes of what you read, 
 write if you can, or draw ; work is more difficult to accomplish.
 
 74 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 because your hands and your needle alike suffer from the 
 extreme heat ; keep your accounts also, amuse yourself by 
 planning fresh dishes for your table, do anything as long as you 
 do not give in and go to bed to sleep, because if you do that you 
 are nearly certain to end by being ill, and becoming a nuisance 
 not only to yourself, but to your friends. 
 
 I have not yet spoken of wines or other drinks of any sort. 
 Eeally, this is the expensive part of Indian living. It is un- 
 doubtedly a thirsty country very thirsty ; but you must learn 
 to quench your thirst with drinks of a non-stimulating nature, 
 that is, if you wish to keep your health. I do not say that wine 
 in moderation, and now and then brandy, very much qualified, 
 may not be taken indeed, in many cases they are necessary 
 only they must not be abused. Too many people, young men 
 more especially, take a "peg" a mixture of brandy and soda 
 water on all occasions, which it is unnecessary to say, is a very 
 bad habit. Soda water, if taken in large quantities, is a de- 
 cidedly lowering drink ; brandy taken when it is not really re- 
 quired is worse than lowering in the Indian climate it is down- 
 right injurious. If malt liquor suits, "hill beer," brewed in the 
 hills, is a very good beverage. It is not so strong as English 
 beer, nor so heavy, and by no means so expensive. Very much 
 more is now brewed in the country than formerly, and the 
 art of brewing is much better understood. There are now as 
 many as nineteen breweries in India, five in the Punjab, five in 
 the North-west Provinces, one in Bombay, three in Madras, two 
 in Mysore, and three in Burmah. In 1879 these produced 
 in all 1,569,026 gallons of ale, beer, and porter, and last year it 
 is said there was a considerable increase. 
 
 Iced tea and coffee, fresh lime juice and water, are also favourite 
 drinks, especially with ladies ; the two former are very good for 
 a day's shooting ; but there would be little use in icing them, as 
 they would soon get warm, unless ice were taken on the expe- 
 dition. Water is hardly ever good in India, and great care 
 should be exercised in drinking it. It requires to be not only 
 filtered but boiled before filtering, and, though this may sound 
 very fussy, still, believe me, it is necessary. Indian water is 
 filled with organic life ; all water is to a certain extent ; but the 
 water in India is most impure, and, if used for drinking without 
 going through the necessary processes of boiling and filtering, 
 affects in some mysterious way the whole system, and produces 
 boils and sores of every description. One disease in particular,
 
 Eating and Drinking. 75 
 
 the "Delhi boil," which arises from drinking bad water, I have- 
 had sad experience of, as my husband was invalided twice from 
 this cause alone. He was left in the Terai one night by his- 
 bearers, who dropped his dhoolie and ran away, and he had to 
 drink bad water or none, the store he had taken with him being 
 exhausted. The result of this was not felt until some time after- 
 wards, when a "Delhi boil" developed itself, and he had to be 
 sent home, as leaving the country is supposed to be the only 
 effectual remedy. It is curious that once the system has suffered 
 from this cause, the disease appears to have so thoroughly pene- 
 trated it that the germs are left, and on a return to the country 
 the boil manifests itself afresh. Such was the case in this 
 instance. On the patient's return to India, after the lapse of 
 nearly twelve months, the disease broke out again, and the same- 
 remedy of sending home had to be adopted. 
 
 It is, therefore, absolutely necessary that all drinking water 
 should be thoroughly purified before use. Some of the small 
 sized filters are very good for use at table, in bedrooms, and so- 
 on ; and as they are not always to be obtained in the country, 
 they should be taken out with you. 
 
 The early morning is undoubtedly the pleasantest time of the 
 day in India at least, those find it so who are active and ener- 
 getic by nature, and like getting up early. The air is then fresh 
 and pleasant, that is from, say, 4 a.m. to 7 a.m., by which time 
 the sun (in the hot weather) has commenced to assert his power 
 rather unpleasantly, and you beat a retreat before him. 
 
 It is not easy to turn out every morning at the early hour I 
 name ; but look on it as a duty, and persevere in the practice, 
 and it soon becomes a regular habit which you would not like to 
 break off. 
 
 An early cup of tea, or glass of milk, and a biscuit or two, 
 taken while you are dressing, and you are ready when you quit 
 your dressing room to get on your pony and canter off into the 
 country. This is the time for exploring, for wandering through 
 the fields, looking at the various crops, discovering new roads 
 and pretty little bits of rural life, making sketches of old 
 mosques, tombs, and the like possibly seeing the troops 
 manoeuvre on the maidan (plain), or taking chota hazari with 
 your friends at a little distance. The morning is the only time, 
 while the hot weather lasts, in which you feel capable of any 
 decided exertion, and it is certainly the only time in which you 
 thoroughly enjoy your life. Your ride, or drive (if you do not
 
 76 Indian -Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 affect exercise on horseback) over, you come back to breakfast, 
 finishing your toilet before that time, and having the refresh- 
 ment of a cold water bath after your exertions. 
 
 Breakfast is a meal to which very often an intimate friend or 
 two will be invited. Brother officers of your husband (if he is a 
 military man) will often drop in, sometimes without invitation 
 (when they anticipate a welcome) after parade ; so it is well to 
 make rather a study of the meal, and have it served in as appe- 
 tising a way as possible. In India you will of course drink the 
 tea of the country, and the coffee also. The latter you will 
 always get green and roast yourself ; the natives make it very 
 well, clear, and strong. It is very rarely you are offered the sort 
 of coffee which is too often set before you at home thick, 
 sloppy, and weak. As for tea, very soon Indian tea will be 
 much more drunk than it is now in England, as also in Australia 
 and America, and most certainly in India itself ; its merits only 
 require to be better known to insure its steady sale, and the 
 demand for it is rapidly increasing every year. Few people who 
 have once given Indian tea a fair trial go back to Chinese, 
 because it is really purer and less expensive, in that a smaller 
 quantity is required ( for, being stronger, it goes much further. 
 You will generally find Anglo-Indians, when at home again, 
 drink Indian tea by preference. We do, and I know many 
 others who do likewise. 
 
 I will say, then, that you are certain of having good tea and 
 coffee. Indian sugar is of an inferior quality generally, because 
 the methods of manufacturing it from the sugar cane are still 
 crude and imperfect. The sugar cane (Saccharum officinarum) 
 grows perfectly in India which is, indeed, the home of the cane ; 
 but though its uses have been known from very early times, very 
 little advance has been made in the art of refining. Some day 
 we may hope to see this state of things altered, that is, when 
 European capital and skill in manufacture are brought to bear 
 on the article. 
 
 Milk is an article which in India is not always good. How- 
 ever, even if you do not keep milch cows, as many do, you can 
 see that it is not watered, by having the cows, if you buy the 
 milk, brought to your own door, and milked there. Even then 
 the people in charge of the animals will, if you do not yourself 
 see that the lotahs (vessels) brought to hold the milk are quite 
 empty before the process begins, put water into them, and so 
 adulterate the milk. When it is brought into the house it
 
 Eating and Drinking. 77 
 
 should be kept in a cool place, where there is a current of air 
 (an empty room answers very well if you have no regular dairy), 
 and wire screens should be kept over the milk pans, to prevent 
 insects, flies, ants, &c., getting into them. Before you set the 
 milk for cream, the pan containing it should be dipped in cold 
 water, and the cream should be skimmed off before the milk is 
 at all sour, if it is wanted for use at table. 
 
 Butter is made by the natives in a very primitive manner 
 by shaking the cream in a bottle until it turns to butter. If 
 you, however, wish to have it good, you must use a churn, and 
 when the butter is taken away it must be placed on a sloping 
 board, so that the buttermilk may run off. After this it should 
 be pressed, beaten, rolled, and sprinkled with salt, again pressed, 
 until there is no more moisture left in it and it is quite firm, 
 when it can be shaped for use. It should be kept in a porous 
 dish, with damp cloths around it, and in a current of air. A good 
 way to preserve it sweet while on the march or travelling by 
 rail, is, when it has been thoroughly pressed and is quite firm, 
 to mix with it some black peppercorns which have been washed 
 and dried, and then put it into a chattie or jar and place on the 
 top some moist sugar laid between two folds of linen. Preserved 
 like this it keeps for many days. 
 
 Clotted Cream can be quickly made in this manner : Let the 
 milk stand for four hours, then simmer it very gently over a 
 charcoal fire, remove it before it begins to boil, and put the pan 
 on the shelf on which you mean it to remain, but it must not 
 be shaken in the moving. The cream which rises on the pan 
 will be fit for use in about twelve hours. If wanted for butter 
 it must stand twenty-four hours, and then, if skimmed with care 
 and shaken in a wide-mouthed glass bottle, the butter comes 
 very quickly. 
 
 Eggs (undak), dressed in various ways, are certain to appear on 
 all breakfast tables. Besides the more simple ways of preparing, 
 such as boiling, poaching, and frying, the natives cook them in 
 many ways, such as 
 
 Buttered eggs, commonly called by the natives "rumble 
 tumble." This dish is made thus : Beat from four to ten eggs, 
 according to the amount you wish to make, strain them care- 
 fully, put some butter into a saucepan over the fire, with salt to 
 taste, turn it one way until it is melted, then put into it your 
 beaten eggs, and stir them round until they are quite thick, only 
 do not allow the mixture to curdle. Have ready some bits of
 
 78 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 buttered toast, keep them warm before the fire, pour the egg 
 mixture on to them, and serve very hot. Green chillies, very 
 finely minced up, are often added to a " rumble tumble," and 
 are a great improvement. 
 
 Brouilles. Take six eggs and beat the yolks and whites 
 together with pepper and salt to taste. Put them in a stew- 
 pan over the fire (not too fierce a one), and stir continually, 
 that the mixture may be quite smooth. A wooden spoon is 
 the best to use for this. Add a tablespoonful of good white 
 broth, and the articles you mean to put in the mixture mush- 
 rooms, asparagus heads, or artichokes. 
 
 Buttered Eggs and Broccoli. Wash and clean the broccoli, 
 removing the stalk and leaves, cut it into quarters, and boil it 
 in salt and water ; beat four eggs well, put them into a saucepan 
 in which 3oz. of butter have been melted, with a little salt, 
 over the fire. The eggs should be put in when the butter is 
 warm, and the mixture should be shaken until it is thick. 
 Prepare a toast, which set quite hot in the centre of a dish ; 
 pour the eggs on to it, and garnish with the broccoli. 
 
 Surprise Eggs. Boil eight eggs quite hard, cut them into 
 halves and take out the yolks, put them into a mortar with two 
 tablespoonfuls of butter, and pound well together, adding a little 
 <jream, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, also one raw egg to 
 make it bind. Take the whites and pare them out thin, fill 
 one half of the eggs with the pounded mixture and the other 
 halves with chopped parsley, some finely cut up green chillies, 
 -and some more of the mixture. Heap up what is left of the 
 pounded egg in the centre of the dish and garnish all round 
 with the stuffed eggs, put into the oven for about ten minutes, 
 -and serve very hot. This makes a very good dish, pretty and 
 appetising. 
 
 Chilwars (small fish) prepared as before described, make a 
 good dish for breakfast, and any other fresh-water fish which 
 can be procured rooe cut in thick slices and fried, spatch- 
 cocked eels, carp-roes, &c. 
 
 Omelets of various kinds plain, au jambon, aux rognons, 
 with fresh chillies, tomatoes, limes, and minced veal, chicken, or 
 game can be made ; only in using any such ingredients they 
 should be chopped up very fine indeed. 
 
 Dumpoke is a good breakfast dish also. It is a boned chicken, 
 stuffed with rice, chillies, and various ingredients, and served 
 cold or hot.
 
 Eating and Drinking. 79 
 
 Kegeree is another excellent dish. It is composed of the 
 remains of cold fish; all the bones are extracted, and it is 
 mixed with well boiled rice (about a cupful), two soft boiled 
 eggs, salt and pepper to taste, half a teaspoonful of mustard, 
 and one ounce of butter. These are all mixed together, made 
 very hot, and served as quickly as possible. 
 
 Konftas are small round cakes made of the remains of any 
 cold meat, minced and mixed with butter, yolk of egg, and 
 spice ; they are fried. 
 
 Spatchcock Fowl is a favourite dish with some people. I do 
 not care for it, as the best part of the bird (the breast) is spoilt 
 by its being split down, and so there never seems to be any meat 
 on the chicken. 
 
 Kidneys filled with chopped parsley, well seasoned and 
 buttered, are generally acceptable ; also when stewed and served 
 with mushrooms. 
 
 Potted meats of different kinds may make their appearance, 
 and there should be cold meat on the side table, such as a spiced 
 rump of beef, cold game, pies, tongue, &c. 
 
 Toasts, such as anchovy, ham, tongue, and chicken, remains 
 of cold game and bacon, shrimps potted. 
 
 Grills of legs of duck, fowl, or game. 
 
 Bread, plain cakes, chupatees, and another sort of hot biscuit 
 thicker than a chupatee, the name of which I forget, which a 
 native cook usually sends in hot for breakfast; they are split 
 and buttered in the same way that scones are at home. 
 
 Indian Corn (Zea Mays) is also eaten at breakfast. The green 
 ears, when young, are roasted until brown, and sent to table 
 with butter and salt. They are sometimes boiled instead of 
 being roasted, the leaves taken off and served on toast with 
 melted butter. 
 
 Fresh Fruit should always be on the table at this meal, for then 
 it is more wholesome to eat than later on in the day. Melons 
 are very much grown in India ; the natives eat great quantities 
 of them, as they are easy to cultivate. Bananas, the small 
 sort, are not difficult to procure, are very cheap, and good eating. 
 Dates, if you are in a date-palm (Phoenix dactylifera) country, 
 are excellent, the fresh date being very wholesome. Sometimes, 
 if the mornings are cool enough (this depends, of course, at what 
 hour you breakfast), you can have your table spread in the 
 verandah, with the blinds (chics) rolled up, ju&t those in front 
 of you, so that you can catch a peep of the trees and flowers
 
 80 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 in your compound, and, possibly a view of the surrounding 
 country ; it is more pleasant when tolerably cool than being in 
 the house. This morning meal is one to dawdle over, for there 
 are all the long hours of the day before you which you must 
 perforce spend in the house, so " while the day is young," there 
 is no occasion for hurry, and if friends drop in there is a certain 
 amount of pleasant chatter going on which you do not care to 
 curtail.
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 SOCIETY. 
 
 Daily Duties Social Customs and Observances Calls Visits 
 Tiffin Agreeableness of Indian Society Occupation 
 and Health Miseries of the Hot Season Off to the 
 Hills. 
 
 THE daily household duties to be performed by every lady are 
 much the same in India as elsewhere. After breakfast the 
 khdnsa'man has to be interviewed as before described, his previous 
 day's bill looked over, checked, and paid, arrangements made for 
 any extra things required, &c. Then will come a visit to the 
 " go-downs " (store cupboards), which will most likely be in the 
 verandah. From them you will give out all that is required for 
 the day by the cook, the bearer, the khitmutgar, and the syces ; 
 the groceries for kitchen use, the oil for the lamps, corn (gram) 
 for the horses, cows, or goats, if you keep them for corn of all 
 kinds should always be kept under lock and key, and given out 
 daily as required, or else you will find it lasts but little time. 
 This duty over, you will most likely see that your tailor (durzee) 
 is supplied with the work you require him to do during the day. 
 You will give a look round the different rooms to see that the 
 proper amount of dusting has been done, and by that time you 
 will be very glad to rest awhile, and read or write, until it is 
 time for tiffin. 
 
 Luncheon in India is not held in much esteem, unless some- 
 times in the cold season, because, even when the weather is 
 comparatively cool for most of the day, between twelve and one 
 o'clock it is always too warm to sit down to a regular hot repast ; 
 hence "tiffin" is usually a meal of rather a light nature, at 
 which cold meats and potted things, fruit, cheese, and cakes play 
 the principal part. In the hot weather it is certainly rather 
 superfluous to have a heavy meal at this hour, for the appetite 
 
 a
 
 82 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 has not had time to recover itself from breakfast, and as there 
 is usually the five o'clock cup of tea, or else some iced liquid, 
 which answers the purpose of tea at that time, and the dinner 
 hour is tolerably early, say, half-past six or seven, so as to allow 
 of ' a drive or ride in the cool of the evening, there is really no 
 necessity for much more than quite light refreshments in the 
 middle of the day. I am now writing of life in the plains. 
 Besides, visiting very often interferes with the luncheon hour. 
 It is an extraordinary fact that in India formal visits are paid 
 just in the very hottest part of the day, but such is the case, 
 and from twelve o'clock to two o'clock you will have to make 
 your first visits. The fashion of calling is reversed from what 
 it is in England. The people newly arrived in a station call on 
 those who are resident in that station. Hence, when you have 
 got tolerably settled in your new quarters, you will have to go 
 the round of the station, calling first on the head military and 
 civil residents. 
 
 In a very large station, such as Bombay, Calcutta, Lahore, &c., 
 you could not call on everyone that is, on all the married 
 couples ; but you would pay visits to the chief people, and then 
 confine your calls more exclusively to your own more immediate 
 set, such as the military people, if you are military, the civilians, 
 if you are civilian. In all cases it is desirable to ascertain what 
 people are visited, or you may, by inadvertently calling on every 
 one, make things afterwards very awkward for yourselves. You 
 must, therefore, be guided, to a certain extent, by what is the 
 custom of the station with regard to paying visits and such 
 matters of social etiquette, as in different places different 
 customs are followed. 
 
 After your first calls have been returned, and as you become 
 more intimate with the people whose acquaintance you wish to 
 keep up, you can waive ceremony somewhat in the hours of 
 calling, and do your visiting in the cool of the evening instead 
 of the extreme heat of the day. 
 
 How I used to dread the round of formal visits ! You arrived 
 at the house in a parboiled state, for no covered conveyance can 
 keep out the heat of these midday hours. If you were not told 
 that "the door is shut" (darwaza bund) by the bearer who came 
 to the door, you would probably be ushered into a room so dark 
 shaded to keep out the heat that coming in from the glare 
 of outside you would not for some time see anything distinctly, 
 -and find yourself addressing some undistinguishable mass of
 
 Society. 83 
 
 humanity, in reality the lady of the house. The awkwardness of 
 these formal visits the new comer, however, soon ceases to regard ; 
 it is only at first that it seems a strange and uncomfortable mode 
 of proceeding. 
 
 Unmarried men, of course, call on the married people, whether 
 they are new comers or not. I remember how very indignant I 
 felt on being told on one of my first visits by the bearer, darwaza 
 bund. I did not then understand that it was only the Indian way 
 of telling the society falsehood " not at home," which is so 
 generally accepted in England, and scarcely felt inclined to be 
 civil when that particular call was returned ; but I made a mistake, 
 not an unnatural one, and, as forewarned is forearmed, I mention 
 it here for the benefit of others. As a rule, English people in 
 India are most hospitable and agreeable to strangers not half 
 so stiff, indeed, as they very often are in their own country, nor 
 yet so inclined to stand upon their dignity or treat their acquaint- 
 ances with so much ceremony. 
 
 Indian society is most agreeable, especially in a good sized 
 station, for there is always some party going on every day. 
 Lawn tennis is now the great amusement for afternoon gather- 
 ings in my time it was Badminton and now you may, in a 
 large station, play every day at some of the bungalows. It is 
 scarcely a cool amusement for such a climate, but it is the 
 fashion, and so every compound of any size boasts its lawn tennis 
 ground. These parties are chiefly confined, however, to the cool 
 season. In the hot weather, all who can get leave, and can 
 afford to rush off to the hills, do so, and the plain stations are 
 more or less deserted ; but few people are left behind, and they 
 shut themselves up all day long, only going out in the early 
 morning and late at night, after dinner. It is then that Indian 
 life is very nearly unbearable, supposing you to be of the unfor- 
 tunate few left behind. There are no parties of any kind, for the 
 simple reason that there are no people left to entertain or to be 
 entertained. Then it is that the strain of the climate really 
 begins to tell on even the strongest, the most energetic begin to 
 flag, and need all their energy and all their strength of mind to 
 keep them from giving up in despair. Hour after hour, day after 
 day, the heat seems to increase ; you get no rest at night, even 
 though you may have your bed taken out into the compound and 
 a sort of impromptu punkah rigged up over it ; you wake up with 
 a sense of suffocation ; you are irritated beyond measure by 
 trifles ; you hate the frogs who croak to each other the livelong
 
 84 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 night ; the insects of all kinds drive you to distraction, goading 
 you into an almost desperate state ; and then, perhaps, when the 
 heat is positively unenduable, comes a storm of dust, or possibly 
 a welcome rain, and the air clears, the atmosphere becomes more 
 tolerable, and your worn-out energies revive somewhat. 
 
 In the plains during the hot season you must get early 
 morning exercise, or you will not keep your health. You 
 must lie by during the day and come out again with the bats 
 in the evening, and either drive by moonlight or sit out in 
 your compound. You must live temperately, avoid anything 
 of a very stimulating nature, such as spirits or too much meat. 
 A vegetable and fruit diet is the best during the hot weather. 
 But above all things, you must avoid giving way to the feeling 
 of lassitude which, however stirring a person you may be, 
 will assuredly creep over you. Even while confined to your 
 bungalow you should employ your mind, though your body 
 may be comparatively still, or you will become wretched, 
 moped, and miserable ; and do not give way to sleep during 
 the day, or you will never get rest at night. 
 
 Unfortunately, I was obliged to spend two hot seasons in 
 the plains one after the other, so I know pretty well how 
 hard the heat is to bear, and I firmly believe that the only 
 way to keep one's health under such circumstances is not to 
 give way to the climate too much, but keep the mind and body, 
 to a certain extent, actively employed. When I say this I do 
 not mean that you should run any risks from undue exertion, 
 or go out at hours when it is not safe to do so, but simply 
 that you should never be really idle. In employment you 
 forget the miseries of the time being, and the day slips on 
 towards night more quickly than you could have fancied.
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 DINNER PARTIES. 
 
 Special Menus Resources of Native Cooks Dishes Table 
 Decoration A ttendance. 
 
 THE first dinner party you give will be to you rather an 
 important event, and one, perhaps, about which you may be 
 a little nervous, especially if there are among the invited guests 
 any such as you happen to know are of a rather critical turn 
 of mind. 
 
 As far as the menu goes consult your kliansaman ; if he is 
 a good one you need have little fear about the result of his 
 share of the entertainment, and he will probably be able to 
 give you a good deal of advice respecting the different dishes 
 in season, all in a most respectful way. A dinner party is 
 always an event of grave importance to your cook, his dignity 
 is at stake, he feels that on him devolves a grave responsibility, 
 and if your guests are those who hold an important position 
 in the station, either military or civil " big wigs," he will rise 
 to the occasion, and give you and your guests a far better dinner 
 than many cooks would at home. 
 
 How the good dinners are cooked, which one partakes of in 
 India, is a marvel, and I am always filled with astonishment at 
 the way a good khansaman will manage with, literally speaking, 
 only a few pots and pans, for a set of dechsies such as he uses 
 would fill an English cook with scorn. He has no bain-Marie to 
 keep his sauces and gravies hot ; no hot plate on which to stand 
 his made dishes ; no contrivances or aids to the culinary art ; 
 but yet the result shows him to be, in nine cases out of ten, a 
 thorough master of cooking in all its branches, even to making 
 rich wedding cakes, icing them over, and covering them with 
 elegant ornaments. I remember on one occasion a young lady, 
 who was engaged to an officer in India, came out to stay with
 
 86 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 us to be married from our house. She had brought her wedding 
 cake with her, a very elaborate production, only, unfortunately, 
 the icing and ornamental sugaring had all broken in the pack- 
 ing, though the cake itself was intact. My khansaman, on 
 observing our dismay when we unpacked it, hastened to assure 
 me, in his native language, that he would set all that right 
 again. This he certainly did. for on the eventful day the 
 cake appeared beautifully ornamented with a representation 
 of the Taj Mahal wonderfully well executed in white sugar ; 
 he had done it all himself, and the result could not have 
 been better. 
 
 In arranging for a dinner party burra Tchana, as your khan- 
 saman will call it you must give him timely notice. If 
 you belong to a " mutton club," you will probably have 
 arranged to get a saddle for your share that week, or a haunch, 
 as the case may be. In a club of this sort the different 
 members get the prime joints in turns, or else write their names 
 against the joints they wish when the list is sent round by the 
 manager. A well, that is "gram-fed," haunch or saddle of 
 mutton is always appreciated in India, because it is by no 
 means easy to get. 
 
 It is a mistaken idea that in India you should set before your 
 guests as many English dishes as possible. The consequence 
 is, you have tinned salmon, tinned peas, tinned ham, bottled 
 fruits, and what are generally termed Belatee (English) stores 
 given you at every dinner party until you are wearied at the 
 sight of them, and loathe all tinned things for the rest of 
 your life. 
 
 There is no reason why those Indian fruits, vegetables, fish, 
 game, &c., which are in season, should not be used ; only 
 we all so much resemble a flock of sheep we must do as 
 our leader does ; and as the fashion is to set as many English 
 things as possible on the table, English people follow it 
 ad nauseam. 
 
 In making out the following menus, I have given a good many 
 Indian dishes English dishes you can have, of course, if you 
 prefer them and as far as fish is concerned, you will have to 
 fall back on tinned salmon very often, because there is nothing 
 else to be had, unless you are in Bombay, where you can get 
 pomplet, either white or black, the black being considered the 
 better ; mullets can sometimes be procured, also rooe, seer, chil- 
 wars (before mentioned), and mahsur, murrell. Game of various
 
 Dinner Parties. 87 
 
 kinds is plentiful, the best being teal, sand grouse, quail, snipe, 
 bustard, ortolans, partridges (black and grey), pheasants, plovers 
 (green, grey, and golden), peahen, and florican, wild duck and 
 wild goose. These are all to be had, but some are very insipid 
 to the taste, partridges and pheasants especially. Venison, too, 
 is easy to get, but it is quite unlike English venison, and not 
 much esteemed. Vegetables of all kinds can be procured, and 
 also fruits, but I cannot say very much for Indian fruit the 
 Gabul fruit is the best you can have. 
 
 Your dinner party is, I will suppose, for ten or twelve, 
 including yourselves. Now that dining a la Russe is universal 
 in India, as well as at home, it is no longer necessary to provide 
 so many dishes as it used to be when they were placed on the 
 table, and it was considered correct to match them ; therefore 
 there are not so many difficulties for a housekeeper to contend 
 with. The table should be prettily decorated with flowers, 
 arranged in any way that fancy dictates, only not in high glasses 
 which hide the guests from each other ; nothing is more absurd 
 than to see two people seated at opposite sides of the table trying 
 to look at each other by dodging first one side and then the 
 other of a mass of obstructive greenery. Trails of ivy, ferns, and 
 creepers, are now merely laid on the cloth, and either tiny low 
 glasses of flowers placed in and out between them, or else long, 
 low glass troughs are arranged down the centre and at the 
 corners. The dessert should be tastefully set out, ornamented 
 with leaves. In India there is no difficulty whatever about 
 attendance, so the hostess need never trouble herself on that 
 score ; each guest brings his own servant to wait on him, and 
 a married couple would bring with them two table servants. 
 It is quite a pretty sight to see these natives all dressed in 
 spotless white, relieved only by their coloured cummerbunds 
 and badges in their turbans ; they move about very noise- 
 lessly, and wait well, so that a diner a la Russe in India is 
 quite as well conducted an affair as in England, very often 
 more so, as there are more attendants. A little instruction 
 it will perhaps be necessary to give the khansaman who carves 
 at the side table, as to the helps he puts on the plates, and 
 the way he cuts the joints, but he will soon get into the way 
 of it. Servants have plenty of practice in large stations, for 
 there are usually a good many dinner parties, and by going 
 from house to house with you they soon become expert in 
 such matters.
 
 88 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 MENU I. 
 
 POTAQES. 
 
 Almond soup. Clear gravy soup. 
 
 POISSONS. 
 Pomplet. Tinned salmon. 
 
 ENTKEES. 
 
 Croquettes of sweetbreads. Beef olives with tomatoes. 
 Quenelles of partridge. 
 
 RELEVES. 
 Boiled turkey. Haunch of mutton. 
 
 ROTS. 
 Teal. Quails. 
 
 ENTKEMETS. 
 
 Maraschino jelly. Burnt cream. 
 
 Mermguees filled with mango cream. 
 
 CHEESE. 
 Fresh. Stilton. 
 
 ICES. 
 Lemon ice cream. Coffee ice cream. 
 
 DESSERT. 
 Fruits in season. Cakes, biscuits, Ac. 
 
 The vegetables to serve with, this menu would be as follows : 
 
 Potatoes a la Maitre d'Hotel. 
 French beans a la Fran<;aise. 
 Green peas. 
 
 Tomatoes with the beef olives. 
 Cucumber with the salmon. 
 
 For the Indian dishes I give the recipes : 
 
 Almond Soup. This is one of the best white soups, but it 
 must be made very carefully. Stock from knuckles of veal and 
 fat slices of ham, seasoned with sweet herbs and white pepper. 
 Boil a fowl, take off all the meat, cut it into slices and pound 
 in a marble mortar. Blanch 4oz. of almonds, pound these up 
 very fine, and mix with the pounded fowl ; add from six to 
 eight tablespoonfuls of cream. If you cannot get cream and 
 have to use milk instead, the yolks of two eggs must be added. 
 Eub the whole through a sieve. Add about a tablespoonful of 
 arrowroot to make the soup of the proper thickness ; this should 
 be mixed with a little stock before it is added to the whole. 
 The soup must not be allowed to boil, and must be carefully
 
 Dinner Parties. 89 
 
 stirred. If it boils it will curdle, which will spoil it. Its 
 beauty is in its perfect smoothness. 
 
 Pomplet or Pomfret. If procurable, this is generally fried in 
 slices. The entrees, releve's, and rots need no explanation ; they 
 would all be cooked as at home. The way to cook quails has 
 already been stated in a former chapter. Teal are stuffed with 
 crumbs of bread, chopped parsley, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and 
 lime juice, mixed with the livers chopped very fine ; they are sent 
 to table on toast, and fresh green limes served with them ; some- 
 times a sharp gravy is sent up also. 
 
 Maraschino Jelly. Make the same as ordinary calf's foot 
 jelly, only, of the maraschino, two liqueur glassfuls, besides two 
 of brandy, should be added when the jelly is melted, before it 
 is run through the bag. 
 
 Meringues. Indian cooks make these very well, but insist on 
 calling them "Mary Annes." Instead of filling them, when 
 made, with whipped cream, fill them with rich mango fool or 
 cream, to which some cura9oa should be added. 
 
 Burnt Cream. Take a pint of cream, boil it with the peel 
 of a lime, sweeten with pounded sugar, beat with the yolks of 
 six eggs and the whites of four ; add one tablespoon ful of arrow- 
 root, one of orange flower water, one dessertspoonful of ratafia. 
 Strain the cream ; when quite cold, add the other ingredients 
 to it. Stir it over the fire until it is quite thick, put it into a 
 dish, sprinkle sifted sugar over it, and brown with a salamander. 
 It is eaten cold, sometimes iced. 
 
 Ices can, of course, only be given by those who possess a 
 freezing machine, which is a luxury very few can boast of in 
 India. Dr. Eiddell says that Masters' is the best for the pur- 
 pose. Full directions for use would be given with the machine. 
 The charge for machine No. 2 consists of 
 
 41b. sulphate of soda (Glauber salts). 
 
 J lib. sal ammoniac. 
 
 2|lb. saltpetre. 
 
 10 pints water to each pail. 
 
 These ingredients must be all well pounded. If Glauber salts 
 are difficult to obtain, then more saltpetre and sal ammoniac 
 must be used in the same proportion as above. Glauber salts 
 are used in England because they are cheap. The salts must 
 be quite free from dirt and minutely pounded, and the water 
 added to them in the machine last of all. The way to prepare 
 cream or water ice in the common freezing pail is to place the
 
 go Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 mixture to be frozen in the freezer and close it ; beat the 
 ice up small with the due proportion of salt, put it into the tub, 
 and insert the freezer, which should be rapidly turned round. 
 The cream, as it sticks to the side, must be scraped down with 
 an ice spoon until it is frozen ; the more the cream is worked 
 to the side the smoother and better flavoured it is. I have 
 tasted very good ices in India, and have tried in the menus to 
 mention those I remember as being especially nice. 
 
 Lemon Ice Cream. Rasp two lemons on sugar, scraping off 
 into the basin you mix in, in which is a pint of cream. Squeeze 
 the lemons, and add the juice, sweetened with -|lb. of pounded 
 sugar ; mix well, and freeze. This makes about one quart of 
 ice. 
 
 Coffee Ice Cream. Roast (freshly) 6oz. of the best coffee ; 
 put the berries into the oven on a tin for about five minutes. 
 Take 1 pint of cream and -^ pint of milk, boil together, and put 
 them into a can ; put the coffee taken from the, oven into the 
 boiling cream, cover the can over until the contents are cold, 
 then strain ; add loz. of arrowroot and ^lb. of sugar, boil like 
 custard, stirring one way to prevent curdling, and then freeze. 
 This quantity makes about 1 quart of ice. 
 
 Vegetables and fruit I shall write of elsewhere. The vege- 
 tables named are English grown, I will suppose, in your own 
 garden. If possible, have fresh English vegetables for your 
 parties ; they are much appreciated, and tinned peas when you 
 can have fresh are a mistake, though all very well when the 
 season is over for the fresh ones. We had English peas in our 
 garden at Christmas, and so there is no difficulty in having a 
 rotation of crops of them. 
 
 Here is a second menu for a dinner party : 
 
 MENU II. 
 
 POTAGBS. 
 
 Artichoke soup. Hare soup. 
 
 POISSON. 
 Mahacer (if procurable) ; if not, Salmon tinned (fresh). 
 
 ENTREES. 
 Croustadea of quails. Curried eggs. Quenelles of chicken. 
 
 KELEVES. 
 Bastard. Saddle of mutton.
 
 Dinner Parties. 91 
 
 ROTS. 
 Snipe. Pheasants. 
 
 ENTREMETS. 
 Fruit jelly. Cocoa-nut pudding. Italian cream. 
 
 CHEESE. 
 Fresh cream cheese. Grated Parmesan. 
 
 ICES. 
 Pine-apple ice cream. Strawberry ice cream. 
 
 DESSERT. 
 Fruits in season, &c. 
 
 Vegetables to serve with this dinner : 
 
 New potatoes (if in season, if not, potato balls). 
 
 Stewed celery. 
 
 Cauliflower. 
 
 Artichoke Soup. Take a sheep's head and feet, and of it 
 make a clear broth : if a sheep's head is not procurable, a cold 
 roasted fowl will do instead. Wash and cut up into slices these 
 vegetables : two carrots, two turnips, two leeks, two onions, one 
 head of celery some cloves should be stuck in the onions ; put 
 all into a stewpan with the consomme ; simmer the whole very 
 gently for two hours, skimming off the fat as it rises. Wash 
 and peel 21b. of Jerusalem artichokes, put them into another 
 stewpan with a little of the broth, boil until they are quite 
 tender and can be rubbed through a coarse cloth or a hair sieve ; 
 strain the broth that remains, and add the artichokes with salt to 
 taste ; put all the stock back into the stewpan, skimming it care- 
 fully ; mix a pint of cream with the yolks of two eggs well 
 beaten, boil this, and add it to the stock. Serve with toasted 
 bread cut into very small dice. A little fresh lime juice from 
 green limes is a great improvement to this soup, only too much 
 would spoil the flavour. 
 
 Mahseer. This fish is styled the Indian salmon, but it really 
 belongs to the barbels or carp. Mahseer are very fair eating, 
 being good curried or kippered, or plain dressed, fried, or baked ; 
 they run to a very large size, from 20lb. to 601b., and give very 
 fair sport, taking a fly, but are more amenable to ground bait ; 
 a spoon is very killing, and the largest fish are caught by trolling. 
 If you are near a river or a lake, you will be able to get various 
 kinds of fresh-water fish ; but I hardly ever remember eating 
 anything but tinned salmon at a dinner party. We often had
 
 92 Indian Outfits and Establishments, 
 
 mutchlee (fish) of various kinds, and very good some of them 
 were ; during the breeding season, however, they are, of course, 
 unfit to touch. 
 
 The entrees are made in the same way as usual. See any good 
 cookery book. 
 
 Bustard. These are very fine birds, and excellent eating ; 
 they weigh from 20 to 301b. The bird is cleaned, trussed, and 
 roasted in precisely the same way as a turkey ; bread sauce is 
 sent to table with it. 
 
 Snipe are very plentiful in some parts of India, and pheasants 
 also. They are both dressed in exactly the same way they would 
 be at home. 
 
 Fruit Jelly. Ordinary calves' feet jelly, flavoured with wine 
 and whole fruits, such as strawberries or greengages, put into 
 the jelly just as it is about to set. 
 
 Cocoanut Pudding. Grated cocoanut to the amount of ^lb., 
 lb. of sugar, 3^1b. of good butter, the whites of four eggs, 
 half a glassful of sherry or brandy, and a teaspoonful of orange 
 water. Line a pie dish with puff paste, pour in the mixture, 
 and bake in a cool oven for about three-quarters of an hour ; 
 serve hot. 
 
 Italian Cream. Eub on sugar the rind of three small fresh 
 green limes, scrape off into a deep dish, add half a wineglassful 
 of brandy, the juice of the limes, 2^oz. of finely sifted sugar, and 
 1 pint of thick cream ; work the whole up well with a whisk. 
 Have ready loz. of isinglass, which should be boiled in a quarter 
 of a pint of water until quite dissolved, strain it into the dish, 
 beat it well, then fill a mould with it. When thoroughly set, 
 turn out on to a glass dish, and garnish with candied lemon 
 peel. 
 
 Pine Apple Ice Cream. Pound a raw pine apple with sugar, 
 add sugar and lemon juice to taste, 1 pint of cream, and a little 
 new milk ; mix well together ; freeze. This makes about a 
 quart, reckoning the pine apple at ^lb. It can be made also with 
 preserved pine apple, but is not so nice as when made with the 
 fresh fruit. 
 
 Strawberry Ice Cream. Made with fresh strawberries if they 
 can be got, if not with strawberry jam, lib., the juice of two 
 lemons, one pint of cream, a little new milk and sugar to taste ; 
 freeze. About one quart. 
 
 The following is a menu for a smaller party, and is more 
 Indian in its character than those preceding :
 
 Dinner Parties. 93 
 
 MENU HI. 
 
 POTAOK. 
 
 Mulligatawney soap. 
 
 POISSON. 
 Baked murrell. 
 
 ENTREES. 
 Pilaa. Fowl khubab. 
 
 BELEVE. 
 Haunch of black back. 
 
 EOT. 
 
 Sand grouse. 
 ENTREMETS. 
 
 Orange jelly. Plantain padding. 
 
 Indian ramakin. 
 
 CHEESE. 
 Fresh cream cheese. Salad. 
 
 DESSERT. 
 Indian fruits only. 
 
 Vegetables served with this dinner : 
 
 Yams, brinjals, lal sag (sort of spinach) . 
 
 Mulligatawney Soup. Slice four or five onions very thin, put 
 them, with four cloves of garlic and lb. of butter, into a stew- 
 pan. Take a fowl or a rabbit, and divide as if for fricassee ; 
 season with white pepper. Put the meat some people put a 
 little beef and mutton besides the chicken into the stewpan on 
 the onions, cover the pan, and simmer the contents for half an 
 hour. Prepare beforehand a paste made of the following ingre- 
 dients : 
 
 Salt 1 Tolah. 
 
 Black pepper 1 Tolah. 
 
 Turmeric 1 Tolah. 
 
 Coriander seeds 4 Tolahs. 
 
 Fenugreek i Tolah. 
 
 Cayenne 1 Masaa. 
 
 Kodianum leaves (4) to be added while boiling. 
 
 All these ingredients, except the leaves, must be well pounded in 
 a mortar, and, when quite fine, mixed into a paste with a little 
 clear gravy. Then add the paste and two quarts of clear gravy
 
 94 Indian Outfits and Establishments, 
 
 to the contents of the stewpan, and allow the whole to simmer 
 gently for half an hour, add (about five minutes before taking 
 off the fire) the juice of a lime and a little arrowroot. The 
 kodianum leaves are also known as curry pak leaves. 
 
 A more simple way. Cub up a good sized fowl into 
 slices, put the meat into a stewpan with 2 quarts of water, 
 some allspice and black pepper, and salt to taste. When it 
 boils, skim carefully ; let it simmer for one hour and a half, 
 then strain. Pat some bits of the meat into a stewpan, and 
 fry them brown in butter, with three or four sliced onions. 
 When quite done add the broth, put again on the fire, skim, 
 and allow to simmer for half an hour ; then mix two spoonfuls 
 of curry powder and a little arrowroot with a teaspoonful of 
 salt, and enough stock to thicken the soup. Let it simmer 
 again until the meat is quite tender, add the juice of a green 
 lime, and serve. Boiled rice is always sent to table with this 
 soup. 
 
 Baked Murrell. Stuff the fish with suet, bread crumbs, 
 parsley, lime peel, and eggs, dredge it well with flour, and 
 lay it in a deep dish. Pour in, on one side, a teacupful of rich 
 gravy, in which has been mixed a lump of fresh butter, a 
 tablespoonful of vinegar, pepper and salt. Put into a rather 
 hot oven, and while the fish is baking baste continually with 
 gravy. 
 
 Pilau. Cut two ripe mangoes into very thin slices, peel 
 and chop four large onions, and put them, with the mangoes, 
 into a saucepan, with 4oz. of butter ; have ready some squares 
 of beef or mutton they should have been fried in butter 
 put them into the stewpan on the top of the other ingredients, 
 and stew the whole for one hour. Have also ready some well 
 boiled rice, put it in the bottom of a deep dish, arrange the 
 meat on the top, pour the gravy over it, and serve very hot. 
 
 Fowl Khubdb. Choose a plump young fowl, prick it well 
 all over with a fork, rub it thoroughly with a paste composed 
 of 1 chittack of coriander seed, ground up with 2 chittacks 
 of green ginger, 2 mashas of cloves, 2 mashas of cardamoms, 
 2 mashas of salt, and 1 masha of black pepper. Fry four large 
 onions, thinly sliced, with 6 mashas of turmeric pounded with 
 1 chittack of butter, adding to this 2 chittacks of cream. 
 Boast the fowl and baste with the above mixture frequently. 
 Serve very hot, and send some of the mixture to table as 
 sauce to be eaten with it.
 
 Dinner Parties. 95 
 
 Haunch of Black Buck. Black buck is rather despised, bat 
 it is, when good, excellent eating. It should be dressed in the 
 usual way venison is done, and good gravy and currant jelly 
 sent to table with it. The great secret of cooking any venison 
 well is constant basting. 
 
 Sand Grouse. Dressed as ordinary grouse. 
 
 Orange Jelly. Scrape on sugar six limes, two Seville, and 
 two sweet oranges, mix with the juice of the fruit, and let it 
 stand for twelve hours. Boil ^lb. of sugar in two wine-glasses 
 of water ; put it into a basin, and when it has cooled strain the 
 juice into it. Dissolve loz. of isinglass in a pint of water, 
 simmer until it is a strong jelly, then mix in the lemon juice 
 and sugar ; stir it until it is nearly cold, and then pour into a 
 mould. 
 
 Plantain Pudding. Fry some plantains in their skins ; when 
 done, peel them and cut into slices, add sugar to taste, the 
 juice of three limes, the peel of one shred into tiny pieces, one 
 glass of sherry, a few cloves, and a little butter. This is put 
 into a paste and boiled as an apple pudding would be. Cream 
 and sifted sugar are sent to table with it. 
 
 Indian Ramakins. Take equal quantities of grated cheese, 
 flour, butter, and one egg to each spoonful of the other in- 
 gredients, cayenne pepper and salt to taste ; mix all thoroughly 
 well together, and bake in ramakin cases. Serve very hot, and 
 send made mustard to table with them. 
 
 Cheese. The only cheese met with in India that is made in 
 the country is cream cheese and fresh curd. English cheeses 
 are imported, but are expensive to buy. Some of the fresh 
 cream cheeses are very nice, but they will not keep long, and 
 are usually eaten a few days after they are made. 
 
 This dinner would be too Indian to suit many people's taste, 
 but I merely give it as an example. There are a great many 
 excellent Indian dishes which people effect to despise, but very 
 many of them are very good indeed. There is, however, in 
 general too much ghee used ; this should not be allowed, but 
 butter be employed instead. With all your dislike to ghee it 
 is used very often by your khansaman, and you are charged 
 for butter, which is more expensive.
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 GARDENING. 
 
 Irrigation the Well Water-drawing by Bullocks the Indian 
 Gardener Hedging Grass Plots Manures Native 
 Deficiency in Agriculture Melons Beans Peas Cabbages 
 Asparagus Onions Mushrooms Cucumbers Cress 
 Luttuces Endive Tomatoes the Egg Plant Arti- 
 chokes Parsley Carrots Parsnips Potatoes Turnips 
 Pumpkins Vegetable Marrow Celery Beetroot 
 Scorzonera Spinach Herbs Tarns Maize, $c. 
 
 MOST Indian houses have a plot of ground surrounding them. 
 Ours stood in rather a larger compound than is usual, and we 
 had, moreover, a very good supply of water, our well being 
 a deep one, and in thorough repair. 
 
 Water is, in India, the one great requisite for a garden ; with 
 sufficient irrigation even the most arid, unpromising bit of ground, 
 which at first sight appears incapable of growing anything, will 
 yield good crops of vegetables, Indian corn (zea mays), melons, 
 and nearly anything you like to grow on it. Even in the most 
 barren compound, which is merely a sandy desert to look at, 
 there is generally, if the bungalow standing in it is occupied, 
 a small green spot outside the bath-room {guslkhana), where 
 the water runs out which is emptied from the baths, and coarse 
 grass and common prickly-leaved shrubs spring up on the spot 
 so watered. 
 
 In a former chapter, on choosing bungalows, I laid particular 
 stress on the necessity of having a deep, properly built, and 
 plentifully supplied well in the compound, even if the garden 
 were not kept up, doubly necessary would it be to select a 
 compound having this convenience if the ground is intended 
 to be cultivated. It is scarcely possible to overrate the relief to 
 the eye which is afforded by even a little greenery around the
 
 Gardening. 97 
 
 bungalow, and, when it can be made useful as well as restful 
 and ornamental, it is certainly worth while to have a garden. 
 
 We had a large, but at first sight, apparently barren 
 compound ; it had a few nice trees in it, certainly, but it was 
 open to the road, and was only a large patch of dusty, sandy 
 ground, without a scrap of vegetation beyond the prickly shrubs 
 which struggle up everywhere, even without any water. How- 
 ever, we soon altered this state of things by setting the well 
 to work. 
 
 I had better describe the well. It was one of those in common 
 use throughout India, like the Persian wells of world-old form, 
 and of a very primitive kind. Surrounded by a deep shaft, 
 lined with brickwork, was a wooden wheel revolving on a pivot. 
 This, being turned by a bullock, which was blindfold, as it 
 continually plodded in a circle, served to raise a succession of 
 earthenware pots filled with water. Each pot turned over as 
 it reached the head of the wheel, poured out its contents into 
 a wooden trough, and then disappeared into the depths below 
 to bring up a fresh supply. Of these pots there were a great 
 number, and though the amount of water each brought up was not 
 large, yet the combined contents, when the wheel was continued 
 many hours at work, produced a considerable volume of water, 
 which was guided by the trough into a shallow watercourse, 
 running the entire length of our compound or grounds. This 
 is the general method ; and from the centre channel are cut 
 little ditches, which lead round all the beds and plots of ground 
 under cultivation. Each bed can, therefore, be flooded at will, 
 and when it has been sufficiently irrigated the supply of water 
 is drained off by a trench, and turned off into another channel, 
 by which a fresh plot of ground is submerged in turn. 
 
 We bought a pair of bullocks very cheaply (for 10 rupees 
 each, if I remember aright). They were, however, mere skin 
 and bone, but soon got fat and fit for work under good food and 
 careful treatment. Our well, too, was going all day, and until 
 quite late at night, one bullock on and then the other, in 
 turns. Good bullocks, of course, cost much more than this r 
 from 30 to 50 rupees the pair. 
 
 The gardener (mallee) is a very important person. The Indian 
 mallees are, according to their lights, very intelligent, hard- 
 working men ; they follow in the steps of those who have gone 
 before, and abhor all new-fashioned ways, thinking that as 
 things went on years ago, so they must continue to go. If their 
 
 H
 
 98 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 ideas are primitive, their implements are even more so. A 
 garden knife and the very rudest of spades suffice a mallee for 
 every sort of work ia his domain. Squatting down on his heels, 
 he digs away with the former all day, and if given English tools, 
 declines to use them. The first task ours undertook was to grow 
 hedges all round the compound, in order to shut it out from the 
 road and screen us from the gaze of the passers-by, and this is 
 how he set about it. With the assistance of the garden coolie, 
 by name Laloo, he dug a trench round the place, which was 
 about two and a half acres in extent, and then other trenches 
 to mark the entrances, of which there were two in front of the 
 house and two at the back. The trenches were then thickly 
 sown with a very quick growing privet, called by the natives 
 gyte. So rapidly does this shrub develop that one can almost 
 see the advances it makes each day. The trenches being flooded 
 with water for several hours morning and evening, the gyte grew 
 in a wonderfully short time into a thick close hedge ; from just 
 appearing above the top of the trench it soon advanced to the 
 height of 4ft. or oft., at which it was kept cut. I think the 
 botanical name of this privet is Lawsonia alba; anyhow, it made 
 an excellent screen, and was very refreshing to the eye. We 
 also divided off a croquet ground with it. To make this ground 
 we had to plant it with grass an operation performed in a most 
 primitive manner by the native mallees. They do not sow 
 grass seed, nor yet plant out sods of turf, as would be done at 
 home, but simply chop up cut grass, and either dibble it in, 
 or mix it up with muttee (mud), and plaster it on the ground, 
 which is afterwards kept under water constantly until the grass 
 begins to grow, which when once it has made a fair start 
 it does very rapidly. We had two grass plots one in front of 
 the house and one at the back where the goats were usually 
 tethered. 
 
 The produce of your compound depends, of course, somewhat 
 on the nature of the soil, but even if that is not very good, it 
 can, by constant irrigation and manuring, be very much 
 improved. Keeping horses, bullocks, goats, and rabbits, there 
 should be no difficulty, with care, in having the soil of your 
 compound enriched, if it is naturally poor ; only you must look 
 after such matters yourself, or your native servants will use the 
 manure as fuel. Care should be taken of all sweepings from 
 stables, bullock houses, &c., and also of bones, garden rubbish, 
 vegetable matter, &c., all of which should be collected in heaps.
 
 Gardening. 99 
 
 Liquid manure is also required, and can easily be made by adding 
 to a gallon of water ^oz. of sulphate of ammonia. Only it 
 must not be had recourse to too often ; for plants in pots it is 
 excellent, but they must be watered with plain water at least 
 four times before the dose is repeated. 
 
 The natives are slow to learn the value of manures, allowing 
 refuse vegetable matter to waste instead of using it on the land, 
 and using manure for fuel. This they are now almost obliged 
 to do that is, in those parts where wood is not available for 
 the purpose but it is a proceeding which it is to be hoped the 
 new Director of Agriculture will endeavour to check, for the 
 evils arising from it are very great. The soil is rapidly, under 
 this system of spoliation, becoming less fertile, for it stands to 
 reason that, by such a method, all is taken from the ground by 
 degrees, and little or nothing restored. If manure from cattle 
 is not available, then artificial manures should be used instead, 
 and every care taken and use made of vegetable refuse, bones, 
 the mud from ponds and small pieces of water, and so on. 
 
 It is not the small farmer or ryot who is at fault in his 
 agricultural knowledge, for it is wonderful how much he really 
 knows about farming that is, after a primitive fashion but 
 the fact that wood ashes and manure from cattle are the soil 
 enrichers he has been accustomed to use, as his fathers did before 
 him, and if they are not procurable he will not seek for others, 
 but fold his hands and whisper " kismet," while his land becomes 
 poorer and poorer each year, .and the crops he gets off it smaller 
 and smaller. 
 
 But by gradual and careful teaching and practical supervision, 
 the ryot may be taught much, and it is just this which the 
 recently revised agricultural department has in its power to do, 
 if it is well carried out, and if high farming is not too much 
 insisted on. 
 
 Melons are a favourite food in India, especially with natives, 
 and grow very well in most parts ; we had about a quarter of 
 an acre planted with them, not confining ourselves to one kind, 
 but growing green, pink, and yellow-fleshed as well. Cut fresh 
 for breakfast, they are an excellent and very wholesome fruit, 
 especially tempting when iced on a very hot day. A good 
 khurbooza, as the natives call a melon, is a food by no means to 
 be despised. The rock, green, and musk melons all grow well 
 in light sandy soils, and are sown at the same time. It is usual 
 to sow the seed in November ; three or four seeds are planted 
 
 H2
 
 ioo Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 together, the ground having been previously manured. The 
 plants must not be allowed, as they come up, to remain too close 
 together, but be weeded out, leaving a distance of from 5ft. to 
 7ft. between each. They are ready to cut about March, and 
 continue bearing for three months or more. The turbooza, or 
 water melon (so called to distinguish it from the other kinds), 
 is in season about the same time. We always saved the seeds 
 of those melons we fancied had a more than usually good flavour, 
 and sowed them when the proper time came round. I brought 
 home a quantity of seed, and found the sorts answered very well 
 at home when grown in a hotbed. The green melon has, per- 
 haps, the richest flavour, but many of the others are very good, 
 some water melons in particular being of especially pleasant 
 taste. 
 
 We brought out a great variety of vegetable seeds with us 
 beans, peas, &c. The peas did very well. English peas are 
 considered a delicacy, but the country peas are very nice, and 
 there are many varieties. Buttana is the Hindostani name for 
 this vegetable. The commonest peas in the country are the 
 brown, large white, and green ; the common pigeon pea ( Cajanus 
 Indicus) is much liked and very largely used by the natives, who 
 rank it very highly as a cheap and nutritious food, and eat it 
 mixed with rice. June is the usual month in which to commence 
 sowing ordinary peas, and it is easy to have a succession of 
 crops, sowing continually from June to February. They should 
 be sown in double rows, not too de,ep about 2in. and a good 
 space left between each row. When they are commencing to 
 climb, the rows should be well earthed up on each side, room 
 being left for the water to run in the centre, and stout sticks 
 should be placed in the space in the middle of the rows ; 
 freedom from weeds, good manuring, and irrigation when neces- 
 sary, constitute the treatment under which they generally thrive. 
 Weak, poor-looking plants should be weeded out, and the strongest 
 saved for seed. If you do not stick them, they must be grown 
 over piles of brushwood, similarly to tomatoes. 
 
 Beans, country sorts as well as English, are sown in the same 
 way as peas in drills. Each bean should be dibbled in about 
 6in. apart from its neighbour ; they should be sown in November, 
 and later if a succession of crops is wanted. Any light soil 
 does for them, with a little manuring and care in weeding, irriga- 
 tion, &c. The seed should be changed every season, as it very 
 soon deteriorates much sooner than pea seed. This applies to
 
 Gardening. 101 
 
 the broad and Windsor kinds. French beans grow well, both 
 dwarf and runners ; they are sown from October till March, or, 
 indeed, up to June ; but caterpillars prove very destructive to 
 them, as also does the Mylabris cichorea, a fly which feeds on 
 the flower. These beans must not be planted too close, and 
 they should be well sticked when they commence climbing. 
 
 Cabbages of various sorts can be grown with success, Kobee, 
 the ordinary cabbage, cauliflower (Phool kobee), borecole (Phultee 
 kobee), which grows splendidly the sprouts are, of course, the 
 only parts fit to eat and many other kinds. Seed for most 
 sorts should be sown in May, and the plants must, from the time 
 they begin to show, be carefully watched for caterpillars, which 
 are terribly destructive to cabbages, and should be destroyed at 
 once. A good plan is to sprinkle the young plants, after they 
 have been watered, with a little black pepper or pounded 
 turmeric. Either will keep the caterpillars off, or cause them 
 to quit the leaves ; plants so treated will also be avoided by 
 slugs. Some people sow cabbage seed first of all in boxes, 
 transplant to other boxes when grown about an inch high, and 
 when the young plants are pretty strong, finally set out in the 
 beds where they are to remain. The soil should be rich, but 
 not heavy, for all the cabbage tribe. 
 
 Asparagus, called by the natives Marjhooba Nokdoon, we 
 cultivated largely. There are two methods of growing it. One 
 is by sowing the seed broadcast in beds about 6ft. square, and 
 then, when the plants are about 8in. high, transplanting them 
 into trenches, having between each trench a space of 12in. The 
 roots must be well covered, and the soil in the trenches must be 
 rich, good manure being dug into it. The other method is to 
 sow the seed in long beds about 20in. wide, where the plants are 
 to remain ; this is the least trouble, and answers very well if 
 the soil is prepared and enriched and the beds are kept well 
 watered ; but they cannot, of course, be worked for some time. 
 When the first lot of plants has gone to seed, the beds must 
 no longer be watered, but the stalks allowed to wither ; their 
 roots should be very carefully uncovered, so that the crowns 
 are not injured, and re-covered with old manure of a rich 
 character to the depth of 2in., turning over on to it the spare 
 soil left between the rows ; this will form a watercourse between 
 the trenches, and the roots below will thus get their fair share 
 of moisture. It is usual to irrigate daily, or at least every 
 second day, as it causes the plants to send up a more plentiful
 
 IO2 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 supply of shoots. As the latter get thin, the beds should no 
 longer be cut from, but the asparagus allowed to run to seed, 
 and then the roots, manured again as the stalks wither off. 
 Well-grown asparagus is much appreciated in India. It is even 
 iced and handed as an entremet at large dinners, but I cannot 
 say, beyond the fact of its being a novelty, that it is at all 
 improved by the process. Our mallee was particularly successful 
 in growing it ; he treated it by the second method described, 
 allowing it to mature in the same bed in which it was first 
 sown. 
 
 Onions, called in Hindustani peeaz, are easily grown all over 
 India, and are much used there, as with us, in cooking. The 
 usual way of cultivating them is to sow broadcast and prick out 
 into beds when strong enough, leaving about lOin. between each 
 plant. They are sown all the year round, and are very easy to 
 grow. 
 
 Mushrooms (Koodrattee) are, after the rainy season and during 
 its continuance, found in most places ; they are just the same as 
 those indigenous to this country, and the good and wholesome 
 sorts are distinguished from the bad and poisonous by precisely 
 the same signs their pink colour, deepening in tint as they get 
 old ; their peculiar smell, and the readiness with which the skin 
 will peal off. They are a nice addition to many dishes. Quails 
 taste very good stuffed with them instead of green chillies. They 
 are served in the same ways as at home on toast, as an entree 
 with claret sauce and a dash of green lime juice, and pickled. 
 
 Cucumbers (kheera) are easily grown all over India, the natives 
 being very partial to them. They are allowed to grow very much 
 au naturel, creeping over sticks or trellis-work as they please, only 
 not planted too close together. The fruit is not so fine, certainly, 
 as that grown in England in hotbeds, but, though much smaller, 
 the flavour is quite as good, if not better, and there is no diffi- 
 culty about cultivating them ; they do not require so much water 
 as many other crops, and can be sown and matured at all seasons. 
 
 Their greatest enemies are porcupines and jackals ; this is why 
 they are grown on lattice work, or over high sticks, as they are 
 then out of the reach of such vermin. 
 
 Cress (hallam). It is considered quite an amusement to grow 
 cress in boxes. If sown thick in narrow drills and well watered, 
 it can be grown all the year round in the garden. Watercress 
 also can, with a little management, be easily cultivated. A 
 series of shallow beds at different levels, so that as one bed is
 
 Gardening. 103 
 
 full of water it overflows into the one below it, is a good plan to 
 adopt, for this answers the purpose of running water. If the 
 water runs off the lowest bed into a channel, which returns to 
 the main channel, the water can be kept running while the well 
 is working without much waste, as in the short time that the 
 well is stopped the beds, though they may possibly drain out, 
 will take no hurt. Some people grow cress in barrels in the 
 same way, always letting the water be moving, not stagnant. 
 
 Lettuces of various sorts can be grown the whole year through. 
 A great business of ours used to be to go round in the mornings 
 and tie up the lettuces to give them good hearts. They should 
 be sown first of all in very small beds, then pricked out into 
 larger ones, and 12in. allowed between each lettuce. , After 
 being transplanted they give little trouble. The soil for them 
 should be light, but rich. 
 
 Endive. Either the curled or the flat-leaved kind is sown 
 in beds or boxes, and pricked out when about 2in. high into 
 those in which it is to remain. From lOin. to 12in. should 
 be allowed between each plant, and when they have reached 
 their proper growth they must be tied up to bleach if they 
 are bleached in the same way as often practised at home, that 
 is, a board placed on them, the white ants will soon find them 
 out, so tying up is the safest plan to pursue. 
 
 Tomatoes (Belatee Begun) grow splendidly in India, though they 
 are not indigenous to the country, but are natives, I believe, of 
 South America. The single and double sorts flourish equally 
 well. The way onr.mallee treated them was to sow them in 
 small plots of ground first of all, and then transplant out in rows 
 and set the plants some distance apart about 22in. having 
 a space of fully 2ft., if not more, between the rows. They are 
 staked with strong sticks, or else piles of brushwood are laid 
 between the rows, leaving the watercourses clear, and they are 
 allowed to climb over them ; this was how we grew them, and 
 when we came home I got our old gardener to adopt the same 
 plan. They seem to ripen better, as they can be turned round 
 and propped so that the underneath side, which too often in this 
 climate does not ripen properly, gets the sun also. If sown in 
 India in June, they will be ripe in October, and the crops can be 
 kept up from then to April. 
 
 Egg Plant (Solanum Melongena), called by the natives Brinjal 
 or Binegun, is much used in India. It grows very easily, and 
 there are several varieties, one of which has a round purple
 
 IO4 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 or white fruit ; another a longer and much more oval-shaped 
 fruit, white or red ; and another striped red. They are propa- 
 gated by seed, which is sown just before the rainy season ; the 
 plants are moved when strong enough to where they are to 
 remain. Brinjals are plainly dressed as vegetable marrows are, 
 and served on toast with butter, or they are curried or roasted, 
 and fried in butter and dhall; in any way they are very good. 
 
 Artichokes (Kungur). Two only are cultivated for use out 
 of the four species that there are ; these are the French and 
 the Dutch. The seed for either kind is usually sown in June, 
 and the sowing continued during the rains ; it is planted some 
 inches from Gin. to 8in. apart. When the artichokes have 
 put out six leaves they must be transplanted in rows about 3ft. 
 apart ; the ground into which they are put should have been 
 previously well dressed. They will have to be looked at very 
 frequently for " black fly," as, if this pest is not destroyed, all 
 the leaves will be eaten up. The best remedy is to dust 
 charcoal ashes thickly over the leaves, or else water them 
 overhead with tobacco-water, poured on with a very fine rosed 
 watering-pot. English seed grows well in India, also that from 
 the Cape. Only one head should be allowed, of the globular 
 kind, to remain on each stalk ; all the others must be picked 
 off ; the one left will then become very fine. They are dressed 
 in precisely the same way, when eaten plain, as they would 
 be in this country, but the natives prepare them in other ways 
 very well. They serve them cold as an entremet, with butter, 
 anchovy, beetroot, capers, pickled cucumbers, and pour over 
 all a rich salad sauce, garnishing with cress, parsley, slices of 
 hard-boiled eggs, &c. ; fried in quarters they are especially good, 
 and this way of cooking them might easily be adopted in 
 England. They must be quite young and tender, quartered, 
 then pared, and rubbed over with lime or lemon to keep the 
 colour and prevent their turning black ; the leaves are nearly 
 all trimmed off, leaving, of course, the edible ends ; the quarters 
 are then washed and drained on a sieve, next put with pepper, 
 salt, and the juice of a green lime, or, in default of that, lemon 
 juice, into a dish ; three eggs are then beaten up in a teaspoon- 
 ful of olive oil and three tablespoonf uls of flour ; the artichokes 
 are put into the mixture and stirred round with a wooden spoon 
 until they are well covered with the sauce, then fried in dripping, 
 the quarters being put in one at a time, drained on paper or a 
 clean cloth, and served with a garnish of either fresh green
 
 Gardening. 105 
 
 parsley or else fried parsley. These recipes apply to the Dutch 
 kind. Jerusalem artichokes are also cooked in the ways adopted 
 with us, boiled, stewed in thick white sauce, and fried with a 
 slice or two of onion, minced parsley, vinegar, salt, and pepper. 
 They are best, I think, in soup, a recipe for which I have already 
 given in a former chapter. 
 
 Parsley (Ajmood) is, of course, grown in every garden ; it is 
 sown where it is to remain, in rows or beds, thinned out, and 
 well watered. English seed should always be used, it is so very 
 much better than the common parsley of the country. Carefully 
 treated, it will last all the year round, only the leaves should be 
 cut down quite close to the roots sometimes, as the plants then 
 throw up fresh young shoots. 
 
 Carrots, called in Hindustani Gajur, grow freely everywhere, 
 as they are indigenous to India ; the red and yellow are the two 
 kinds cultivated. They are sown broadcast where they are to 
 remain, and thinned out as they require it ; a space of at least 
 6in. should be left between the roots. We grew a quantity, giving 
 them to the horses as a treat every now and then. By cutting off 
 the green tops in April they will keep until July, as their growth 
 is thereby checked. Soil for them should be light, but good. 
 
 Parsnips (juzur) are much more difficult to grow ; the seeds 
 very rarely come up properly, to begin with. The seed should 
 be sown in July, and the roots are fit to eat in March or April. 
 We tried them for a time, but, finding they were troublesome 
 and not at all good, we gave up their cultivation. Possibly the 
 soil did not suit them. 
 
 Potatoes I should certainly have mentioned before ; the aloo 
 is a very important vegetable, and can, in some parts of India, 
 be grown the whole year round that is, on the hills. White 
 ants are the great enemies of the potato, and as light and loamy 
 a soil as possible should therefore be chosen to grow them in. 
 They are planted usually in rows about a foot apart, and should 
 be set Gin. deep in the ground. Before the rains is the best time 
 to put them in ; water should never be allowed to lodge around 
 them, so they should not be watered too much. The slices 
 (each slice should have two well developed eyes) must be dipped 
 while fresh cut in wood ashes, the cut side being the side to dip. 
 Let them dry, which they will do in a few hours, and then plant. 
 This treatment, the mallees say, keeps off the ants' attacks. 
 Grubs also eat this vegetable, and are most destructive to it. 
 Very fine potato crops are yielded in some parts of the Deccan ;
 
 106 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 there they sow from October to December. The plants must be 
 searched for the caterpillar grub constantly ; the grubs are, it is 
 now ascertained, the larvse of the black beetle, the eggs being in 
 the manure with which the ground is dressed before the potatoes 
 are set. No effectual remedy has as yet been found for this 
 plague, beyond the simple one of searching for them daily and 
 destroying them when found. Lately much more attention has 
 been paid to the cultivation of this vegetable in India, and with 
 very good results. 
 
 The natives dress the aloo in much the same way we do at 
 home. I do not remember tasting it prepared in any especially 
 Indian fashion. 
 
 Turnips (Shalgam) are easily cultivated in most parts of India ; 
 in the Deccan they flourish well. They are usually sown at the 
 commencement of the rainy season, and they continue until the 
 end of February, sometimes into March. European seed is 
 always used. The soil must be light, but rich ; it is usual to 
 sow broadcast, and then transplant either in ridges or rows, 
 leaving about 12in. between each plant. Search the plants care- 
 fully for caterpillars, as the leaves, especially during the rains, 
 are infested with them, and if they are not picked off they will 
 completely destroy them. Swede and Cashmere turnips should 
 be sown in July, Globe in August, large Globe and Herefordshire 
 in September. 
 
 Pumpkins (in Hindustani Kuddoo) grow very well, requiring 
 but little care. They are sown usually when the rains com- 
 mence, in a light, but good soil. They are often cooked when 
 quite young, and not much larger than a hen's egg, and should 
 be sliced and gently boiled, and served with melted butter with 
 a dash of lime juice in it. They also make good soup when 
 young ; they are stewed for this until tender in white stock, then 
 pressed through a sieve, and half a pint of cream added before 
 the soup is served ; the cream must be heated, and pepper and 
 salt to taste added. 
 
 Vegetable Marrows (called by the natives Suppra roomro) are 
 propagated only by seed ; the pear-shaped kind are the best to 
 grow, but they must be eaten when quite young, or they get 
 stringy. These vegetables should be sown where they are to 
 remain in March and April, as they do not bear transplanting 
 well. They are dressed in the same ways as at home, plain 
 boiled when quite young, and served on toast with melted butter ; 
 also made into soup in the same way as pumpkins.
 
 Gardening. 107 
 
 Celery (Ujoodeeri). The seed should be sown as the rains 
 commence, in boxes first of all, and then the young plants 
 pricked off into fresh boxes, and, finally, when about five weeks 
 old, moved into the trenches where they are to remain. The 
 trenches are thus prepared : Dig out earth to the depth of 1-^ft. 
 by 2ft. wide, laying the earth level between the trenches, which 
 should be 4ft. apart. Into each trench put 1ft. good manure, 
 and over this Gin. of the earth that was dug out. Mix the earth 
 and manure well up together and smooth off the surface. When 
 this has been done, the earth at the side of each trench will be 
 6in. or Sin. higher than the surface of the trench. Place the 
 young plants in double rows lOin. apart every way ; in about a 
 fortnight a little earth should be drawn up around the necks of 
 the plants, only be careful that no earth gets into the hearts of 
 them. This operation should be repeated every ten days until 
 the celery is as large as you wish ; earth up when the plants are 
 dry. Water freely every day, if necessary. Transplant offshoots 
 so as to have a succession of plants coming on all the year 
 round. 
 
 Celery is excellent stewed in veal stock until quite tender, and 
 then, before serving, strain on it a quarter of a pint of cream, 
 the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, some lime juice, grated nut- 
 meg, salt and pepper to taste, and a very little butter ; this sauce 
 should be well mixed, and made hot before being strained on to 
 the celery. This recipe is for a white stew ; if it is wished 
 brown, it must be stewed in a good brown gravy instead of white 
 stock, and the cream and eggs omitted; season with pepper, salt, 
 and mace. 
 
 Celery seed should always be saved, as it is most useful for 
 flavouring soups, sauces, &c. 
 
 Beetroot, both red and white, can be easily grown. The seed 
 should be sown from May to September, or even later if a succes- 
 sion is wanted. Sow in small beds and transplant, when ready, 
 to rows; plant at least 12in. apart. Procure fresh seed each 
 year, and remember the soil can hardly be too light. Beetroot 
 (or chukunda) is dressed as in England, baked, stewed, or plain 
 boiled, sliced and eaten cold with vinegar, also pickled. 
 
 Scorzonera is an annual introduced from Europe. Salsify is 
 the black scorzonera ; both are treated in the same way sown 
 broadcast in small beds, and then pricked out into larger ones. 
 They grow freely after the rains. As vegetables, they make an 
 agreeable change, dressed as they are here, and sometimes with
 
 io8 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 cheese, which is grated and sprinkled over the scorzonera or 
 salsify when it is cooked, then put in the oven to bake, and 
 browned over with a salamander before serving. 
 
 Spinach (palung) should be sown in the rains, July to Sep- 
 tember, according to place, in lines 1ft. apart. It requires to be 
 watered, not too much ; dressed as at home. 
 
 Herbs are largely grown. 
 
 Basil, Sweet Borage (Boomak Kalee Toolsee) is grown as a 
 shrub in all parts of India ; it is, if sown, put in in August and 
 September. 
 
 Marjoram, which is a native of India, is sown at the same 
 time as basil ; it is easily reared by seed, roots, or slips, and is 
 much used in flavouring. 
 
 Mint, known as Podeena, of which there are three sorts 
 spearmint, peppermint, and pennyroyal is propagated by layers, 
 or parting the roots or cuttings. It is very largely grown ; the 
 first named is the kind used in cooking. All sorts are subject to 
 a tiny black caterpillar, which eats the leaves and will destroy 
 very quickly a whole bed if the precaution is not taken of flood- 
 ing it. 
 
 Fennel grows very freely all over India ; it dies down directly 
 the seed has ripened, being an annual. It is generally sown in 
 rows, but needs very little attention. 
 
 Sage grows, too, very easily ; it is not, however, a native of 
 India, but was introduced from Europe ; it can be propagated from 
 cuttings, layers, or roots with equal ease. It is a perennial. 
 
 Thyme, on the contrary, is by no means an easy plant to rear, 
 and is best raised from seed and grown in pots. It requires a 
 very good soil. 
 
 Garlic is common all over the country, the natives call it 
 lussun, and grow it freely in their gardens, as they use it very 
 much in cooking their food mixing it with rice, fish, &c. It is 
 best grown from the root ; a bulb is broken, the cloves extracted, 
 and planted in beds from 4in. to Gin. apart. It needs but little 
 care, only when the leaves dry and wither, the roots should be 
 taken up and preserved in a dry place. 
 
 Mustard is cultivated a good deal, both the white and the 
 black kinds, the former for salad, the latter for pickles, sauces, 
 and oil ; it is called by the natives Rai, and is cultivated in the 
 same way as cress; it is sown at the same time in July and 
 August, at intervals of ten days, so as to keep up the supply for 
 salads.
 
 Gardening. 109 
 
 Chives are propagated easily by slips or else dividing the 
 roots ; lOin. should be allowed between each clump. 
 
 Shallots are grown in the same way, the chive being a species 
 of shallot. 
 
 Horse Radish is not cultivated in India, but there is a 
 substitute for it, the root of the mooringa, a tree which is 
 indigenous to the country. The roots are scraped and used 
 instead of horse-radish, and have the same properties and much 
 the same flavour. It is easily propagated by seed. 
 
 Capsicums, called Buragach Mirchee, are known all over 
 India, the red pepper obtained from them being so much used 
 in cooking. They require little care, for they grow anywhere 
 well, provided the ground is enriched with a little manure, 
 The seed is sown first of all broadcast, and the young plants 
 pricked out into rows, leaving a distance of l^ft. between each 
 plant. They require a good deal of water, and must be kept 
 free from weeds. This plant is a native of South America, 
 and there are many varieties of it, which are distinguished by 
 the shape of the fruit. Cayenne pepper is the produce of the 
 smaller species of capsicum ; the fruits are dried, pounded, and 
 mixed with salt. When gathered and eaten fresh they are 
 very wholesome, and good promoters of digestion in tropical 
 countries. Green chillies are much used in native curries, in 
 dishes prepared with eggs, in stuffing for birds, fish, &c. 
 Quantities are exported to England, but more from the West 
 Indies than the East. The price in London is from 15s. to 
 25s. per cwt. Of the various kinds, C. baccatum, bird's eye 
 pepper, C. fastigiatwn, cayenne pepper, C. frutiscens, Chili 
 pepper, and C. Nepale'nse, Nepaulese pepper, are the best known. 
 The following is the method in which cayenne pepper is made 
 by the natives from capsicums : They dry the ripe fruits in the 
 sun, and then in an oven in an earthenware pot, with flour 
 put between the layers of fruit. When quite dry they are 
 cleaned from the flour and pounded to powder. To this is 
 added flour in the proportion of a pound of wheat flour to every 
 ounce of pepper, and the mixture is made up into cakes with 
 leaven. These are baked until as hard as a biscuit, then beaten 
 again into a powder and sifted. In this state the pepper is 
 ready, after being packed in tin cases, and soldered down to 
 exclude the air, for exportation. 
 
 In preparing red pepper for ourselves from the capsicums 
 grown in our own garden, we simply dried them first of all in
 
 no Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 the sun, re-dried them in the oven (or, at least, the khansaman 
 did), and they were then pounded and sifted for use. 
 
 Radishes (Hindustani, moollee) we grew in quantities, sowing 
 the seed broadcast in small beds from June to February ; it is 
 trodden in, and then the beds watered. When the plants are 
 about Sin. high they should be well thinned, leaving about 
 4in. or more between each plant. In from four to six weeks 
 they will be fit to pull. The country radishes are fairly good ; 
 but those grown from imported seeds have more flavour. 
 
 Leeks, known as Belatee Peeaj, are sown broadcast in beds 
 from July to August, transplanted when about Gin. high into 
 rows, and set about 12in. apart. They do well in most parts 
 of India, more especially in the Deccan. 
 
 In the preceding remarks I have dwelt more particularly on 
 the English vegetables with which we are all acquainted, and 
 the method of treating them when grown in India ; but there 
 are very many native vegetables which deserve mention. I will 
 name a few of those most used : There are various sorts of 
 country beans, called collectively secern, such as the balka (garden 
 bean), balkazun (kidney bean), both cultivated as the kidney 
 bean would be, and cooked in the same ways ; also the bullur, 
 the kulaee, and the kutt'hee (horse bean). Bheendee is a very 
 commonly grown plant, met with everywhere ; the long capsules 
 are cooked when green, boiled whole or sliced, and are made into 
 soup. It is, when thoroughly well cooked, an agreeable vege- 
 table to eat. Brinjals I have already named, and the methods 
 of cooking them. 
 
 Yams, such as the Gruranto Aloo (the red sweet yam), and the 
 Gurany Lai (purple yam), may well be grown, especially the 
 former, as they make a change in the vegetables served at your 
 table ; the Disocroeas have all large tuberous roots, but some of 
 them are much more eatable than others ; of these D. globosa 
 is, perhaps, the best. They are usually found in the forests, 
 where they are dug up in the winter and brought into the 
 bazaars by the natives for sale ; they are easy to grow, and are 
 cooked in the same way as potatoes, but are much sweeter and 
 more insipid to the taste. A small yam, the D. aculeata, is 
 thought a good deal of ; the tubers are whiter than those of the 
 other yams. Starch is made from the tubers of another sort of 
 yam, the D. fasifculata. The sweet potato (Convolvulus Batata) 
 is also cultivated in many gardens, as well as a tuber called by 
 the natives Choopree Aloo, the botanical name of which I do not
 
 Gardening. in 
 
 know. Both are good, especially the first named ; they are 
 cultivated exactly in the same way as potatoes. 
 
 Ginger is a native of India, and attains to great perfection in 
 that country. Green ginger forms an ingredient in very many 
 dishes. Adruk, the native name for the plant, is planted by 
 division of the green root, usually before the rains commence. 
 It is set in the same beds in which it is to remain, but does not 
 flourish well unless the soil is really suited to it; it needs a great 
 deal of water. The stalks dry off, but the roots are allowed to 
 remain in the ground sometimes for two years, always one, 
 before they are taken up. It is largely cultivated in India, 
 doing best in red earth, tolerably moist and free from gravel. 
 When the roots are taken up, if for white ginger, they are 
 scalded, scraped, and dried ; if for black ginger, they are merely 
 scalded, not scraped. When first dug up the rhizomes are red 
 inside. The preserved ginger sold in shops is made from the 
 young roots dug up before they have remained very long in the 
 ground about four months. The chief enemies to these roots 
 are worms; sometimes whole crops are ruined by them, and 
 there is no certain remedy. To make preserved ginger from the 
 young rhizomes, they are, when dug up, scalded, and washed 
 thoroughly in cold water, the water being changed every day 
 for four days, then pealed with great care. When this operation 
 is over, they are put into jars, which are filled up with a weak 
 syrup of sugar. This syrup is changed every third day for nine 
 days, each time being made stronger until the last time, then 
 the jars are tied down, and are ready for exportation or sale in 
 the country, as the case may be. The Calicut ginger is said to 
 be the best produced in India. 
 
 Turmeric in India is very much used in cooking, being an 
 ingredient in curries, chutney, and so on. Its native name is 
 Huldee. There are four species of the plant ; the sort used 
 for culinary purposes is planted, as is ginger, in the place in 
 which it is to remain, dug up when ripe (that is in about a year), 
 and dried. 
 
 Sorrel is very commonly grown that is, Hibiscus Sabdariffa, 
 the red sorrel. It was introduced through the West Indies from 
 the Mauritius. It is easily grown, and if the soil suits it 
 develops into a bush about 4ft. in height, so a good space should 
 be allowed between the plants, at least 3ft., or even 4ft. 
 The leaves are made into sauce ; they are picked over young 
 ones should be chosen and washed, then put into a stewpan
 
 ii2 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 with an ounce of butter, the pan being covered and set over 
 a moderate fire for about ten minutes or a quarter of an hour ; 
 they are then rubbed through a sieve, and seasoned with nutmeg, 
 pepper, salt, and sugar. The juice of a lemon is added, and 
 sent hot to table. It is an excellent sauce to serve with quail, 
 or any small birds, also with cutlets. The ripe fruit of this 
 plant is used for tarts and made also into jellies. 
 
 I have now mentioned most of the best known native 
 vegetables. There are many others, but I am not much aquainted 
 with them. 
 
 You should certainly find room for a plot of Boota, as the 
 natives term the Indian corn, known to botanists as zea mays, 
 for it is very useful, and can be eaten dressed in various ways. 
 The plant is really a native of South America, but has been 
 introduced thence to Europe, Asia, East and West Indies, and 
 Africa. It grows anywhere and needs very little attention. 
 It is usual to sow it at the beginning of the rainy season, the 
 ground being prepared for it in May by being dug up, and, 
 if poor, enriched with a little manure as a top dressing. In 
 India it grows very well, and the large fields cropped with it 
 present a very pretty sight, as it is a gracefully growing plant : 
 even the corner we devoted to it in our compound always looked 
 pretty, and formed a pleasing bit of colour to rest the eyes on. 
 Maize grows from 7ft. to 8ft. in height. As a cereal it is 
 very valuable, because of its comparative freedom from 
 disease neither rust, blight, nor mildew affecting it and its 
 growth is so strong that heavy rain does not beat it down. 
 Insects, in the first stages of its growth, and birds, as the grain 
 ripens, are its worst enemies. I am glad to see from the returns 
 of acreage (it is not necessary to enter into the statistics here) that 
 the cultivation of maize is spreading very rapidly in India, and 
 it has now become a very important crop. In Behar and Upper 
 India this is especially the case. The produce of the grain to 
 the acre is larger than almost any other cereal, it having been 
 known to yield under thoroughly favourable circumstances as 
 much as from four to five hundredfold. 
 
 The heads are dressed green, the leaves stripped off, the 
 grain heads plunged into boiling water, and served on toast, 
 with melted butter, or the young ears are roasted in the same 
 way as they would be when ripe, until the grains are brown, 
 and then sent to table wrapped up in a napkin to keep them 
 hot, and butter and salt served with them.
 
 Gardening. 113 
 
 Good soup is also made from the tender grain. After the 
 grains have become quite ripe and hard they are used in many 
 different ways ground into meal, which is known as " hominy," 
 and is made into cakes, puddings, and porridge. Cattle are 
 exceedingly fond of maize, but it should be coarsely ground 
 before being given as food to any animal, or the grains do not 
 digest properly, and often, by swelling, in the case of feeding 
 poultry, cause obstructions, with sometimes serious results. 
 Besides being of use for food, the leaves of the plant yield a 
 fibre which has been utilised, when spun, as flax, and, when 
 reduced to a pulp, for a paper material. 
 
 Rice, the common food of all natives, is the cereal of India, 
 though wheat is now, especially in the Punjab and North-western 
 provinces, making considerable headway. Oryza sativa is, 
 however, not usually grown in compounds of limited space, as 
 it is so easily procurable anywhere in India, and so cheaply 
 that it would be waste of time and space to cultivate it on a 
 very small scale.
 
 CHAPTER XYI. 
 INDIAN FRUITS AND CONSERVES. 
 
 Mangoes Mango Preparations Mangosteen Dates Date 
 Conserve The Fig Fig Jam Ficus Bengalensis Ficus 
 Elastica Grapes Grape Culture Grape Jelly The 
 Banana Nutritive Properties Preparations The Orange 
 Its Medicinal Qualities Various Uses The Cocoa- 
 nut tree Bhere Fruit Jamoon, or Janiboul The Guava 
 Guava Jelly Peaches Apricots Apples The Pear 
 Bread Fruit The Leichee The Loquat The Pummelo 
 The Lemon Lime Juice Tamarinds Tamarind Preserve 
 Tamarind Water The Pomegranate Pomegranate 
 Water. 
 
 A GREAT quantity of fruit of different 'kinds is grown in India; 
 but abundant though it is, the quality is too often inferior. 
 I am forced to confess that, with a few honourable exceptions, 
 I was disappointed in Indian fruit. There are oranges in plenty, 
 but they have mostly thick skins and woolly interiors, devoid 
 of juice ; peaches, of which one can only say " what a goodly 
 outside falsehood hath," for tempting though their exterior 
 seems, they are often rotten at the core. The mangoes, dates, 
 lichies, however, with some others, are really good. First of all 
 must be ranked 
 
 Mangoes. Many people are very partial to them, and the 
 Bombay mangoes are really good. The trees in Bombay bear 
 two crops every year, but this is not the case with all mango 
 trees. It is a tree easily propagated, either by seed which, 
 however, is the slowest method of raising cuttings, or grafting. 
 A mango graft may be applied at any season of the year ; the 
 stock needs to be kept continually moist ; a graft tree, however, 
 never grows as large as a seedling. The finest flavoured sorts
 
 Indian Fruits and Conserves. 115 
 
 grown in India, that is in Western India, are the Doriah, 
 Malgrobah, Raspberry, Mazagon, and Alphonso. The Malgro- 
 bah is the largest of all, and ripens the latest. 
 
 The culture of the mango (inangifera Indicd) is easy, as it re- 
 quires only a moderate degree of care. The tree is strengthened 
 by being pruned, and in the cold weather the roots should be 
 dug all round and old manure mixed with the soil. Seedlings 
 take much longer to bear fruit than grafts, frequently not 
 bearing until the sixth year, while those grafted bear, if allowed 
 to do so, in the second or third year. The fruit is highly 
 esteemed and is very wholesome, but the coarser sorts have a 
 strong taste of turpentine. Unripe mangoes make good tarts, 
 preserves, fool, and pickles. Iced mango fool, a recipe for 
 which I gave in a former chapter, is an excellent dish in hot 
 weather. Mangoes are preserved after this fashion : Choose 
 some fine unripe mangoes, peel them, divide in half, and remove 
 the seeds ; the stones are cut in half and allowed to remain. 
 Then to every pound of fruit allow l^lb. of sugar candy and 
 one pint of water, put into a preserving pan and boil gently, 
 stirring constantly, and skimming off all scum as it rises. 
 Remove the pan from the fire when the mangoes look clear and 
 are soft to the touch, let them stand in the pan till quite cold, 
 then put into jars and tie down very carefully with brandied 
 paper. 
 
 Mango Jelly is very good made thus : Peel some unripe 
 mangoes and cut into slices, remove the stones, put the slices 
 into a stew or preserving pan, with enough water to cover them, 
 boil them gently until perfectly soft, then run through 'a jelly 
 bag. To every pint of juice add lilb. white sugar pounded 
 fine ; when it is all dissolved, put it into the preserving pan 
 again and boil gently, constantly skimming and stirring the 
 whole time. When it is fine, clear, and the scum ceases to 
 rise, pour it off while warm into pots, and tie down very care- 
 fully. 
 
 Mango pickle. Procure fifty fine mangoes (unripe), peel them 
 and partly divide them through the shell, so as to remove the 
 kernel from the inside. Strew salt thickly over them, and let 
 them remain in a large tub for twenty-four hours. Make the 
 following pickle: 1 pints of vinegar, 2oz. of turmeric; simmer 
 this for a quarter of an hour, then take off the fire ; add to the 
 mangoes ^ seer of dry chillies, seer of green ginger sliced, 4lb. 
 of mustard seed, free from husk, and 2oz. of garlic. Stuff the
 
 n6 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 insides of the mangoes with these ingredients, which should 
 also be thoroughly incorporated with them; stir them round 
 until they are perfectly mixed together, then pour over the 
 vinegar and turmeric. Before mixing up in this manner, the 
 mangoes should have been removed from the tub into the jar 
 in which it is intended to keep them. If the vinegar is not 
 enough to cover the fruit, more must be added, and the jar 
 very securely tied down. Mangoes are often dried in the sun 
 in this way : the unripe fruit is taken, peeled, and cut into slices ; 
 these are well sprinkled over with salt and set in the sun to dry. 
 They are then rolled into balls and- hung in some dry place 
 until wanted for use. Another plan is to boil the green mangoes 
 with a little water until they are quite smooth ; the pulp 
 obtained from them is then dried in the sun, and when ready 
 stored away in a dry place ; when wanted for use a piece is cut 
 off and soaked in water. 
 
 Mango Chutney (sweet). Take a pound of mangoes eight 
 large mangoes when peeled and sliced are reckoned to the 
 English pound peel them and cut them into very small bits, 
 chop up very small 2oz. green ginger, 2oz. garlic, 8oz. dried 
 chillies, ground and mixed with vinegar, 8oz. sugar, and 8oz. 
 salt, mix the mangoes well up with the other ingredients, put 
 all into a jar and cork or tie it down very tightly ; keep it out 
 in the sun for a fortnight, and sometimes stir the chutney up 
 well. A fresh and simple dinner chutney for immediate use can 
 be made by peeling one green mango, and chopping it up into 
 tiny pieces, adding one onion and three green chillies, cut up 
 finely, a teaspoonful of salt and one of vinegar. 
 
 Mango Chutney (Colonel Skinner's recipe). 12oz. dried 
 mangoes, 4oz. garlic, 8oz. each of ginger, salt, jaggery, and 
 stoned raisins, 2oz. dried chillies, two and a half bottles of vinegar, 
 the whole to be well ground down together, put into a well 
 closed jar, and left out in the sun for a fortnight, when it will 
 be fit for use. 
 
 Mango Sauce (Dr. Eiddell's recipe). lib. each of green 
 mangoes, salt, sugar, raisins, -^Ib. red chillies and garlic mixed, 
 green ginger ^lb., vinegar three quarts, lime juice one pint. 
 Pound the first ingredients well, then add the chillies, garlic, 
 and ginger, mix and expose them to the sun for a month, then 
 strain through a piece of cloth, gently pressing the liquid ; 
 bottle off and cork down tightly for use. The sediment left 
 after the straining is an excellent chutney.
 
 Indian Fruits and Conserves. 117 
 
 I have devoted some space to mangoes because, in the esti- 
 mation of many, they are the best fruit produced in India. 
 The kernels of the nut contain a considerable degree of nourish- 
 ment, but are not often used, except in times of famine, when 
 the poorer natives boil and eat them. The pulp of a mango 
 contains sugar, gum, citric acid, and gallic acid, the presence of 
 which is shown by the blue stain left on a knife when a mango 
 is cut with it. 
 
 Mango trees bear plentifully only under favourable circum- 
 stances, namely, a moist atmosphere. A mango famine, the 
 natives say, foretells a grain famine, light rains, but healthy 
 weather ; mangoes in excess foretell heavy rains and plagues. If 
 mangoes ripen before rain falls it is thought dangerous to eat 
 them, which accounts for the following native saying, " Eat a 
 mango before it rains and dig your grave." 
 
 Mangosteen (Garcinia purpured) bears a fruit about the size 
 of a small orange, of a deep purple colour ; the seeds yield an 
 oil known as kokum oil, which is at excellent application for 
 chapped skin, scratches, &c. The fruit is very good, having an 
 agreeable acid flavour, and is much used in jellies and syrups, 
 and also eaten in its natural state. There are several trees in 
 Bombay ; they are handsome, growing to about 30ft. in height, 
 with drooping branches, and lanceolar, shining dark green leaves, 
 the fruit is smooth, brown outside, and, as before mentioned, 
 purple within, the seeds also being of that colour. It grows in 
 the Concans, in the ravines at Kandalla, and along the Malabar 
 coast. 
 
 The true mangosteen (the G. magostana) is not a native of 
 India, but was introduced from Singapore into Bombay. The 
 fruit does not, moreover, attain to that perfection it does in the 
 countries to which it is indigenous. The white pulp sur- 
 rounding the seeds is most delicious, and has been likened to 
 "perfumed snow." It is a pity that it does not succeed better 
 in India, as it is the most wonderfully fine flavoured fruit, but 
 neither in size nor in taste do the fruits resemble those produced 
 from the trees in the Eastern Archipelago. The G. pedunculata 
 also produces an edible fruit, which ripens in April or May. It 
 is of large size, sometimes weighing as much as 21b., and of a 
 very acid flavour, but pleasant. Natives use it in curries, and 
 for acidulating water. Cut into slices and dried in the sun it 
 retains its acid qualities for years, and has much the same pro- 
 perties as a lime.
 
 n8 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 Dates, the fruit of the date palm (phcenix dactylifera), grow to 
 great perfection in some parts of India. Mooltan, where we 
 were for some time stationed, is famous for its date palms. They 
 form a great feature in the landscape, and the fruit freshly 
 plucked from the tree is, to my mind, one of the best of the 
 various Indian fruits. It is a handsome tree, this date palm, 
 shooting up in one cylindrical column, to the height of 50ft. or 
 60ft. without any division or branches, and is about the same 
 thickness throughout its length. It throws out, at its extreme 
 top, a splendid crown of leaves, which fall very gracefully ; the 
 chief stems of these leaves are, some of them, as long as 12ft. ; 
 they taper off at the end, and have the appearance of a gigantic 
 fern. The bottoms of the leaves are enveloped in a sort of mem- 
 braneous sheath ; they are pinnated, each leaf being composed 
 of a quantity of long and narrow leaflets ; these are alternate, 
 and bright green in colour. The flowers come out in large 
 bunches or spikes from between the leaves. The tree is dioecious, 
 the male flowers being on one plant, and the female, or fruiting 
 ones, on another ; the former are the largest. The stamens of 
 the female flowers are tiny dates, not much bigger than peas. 
 These swell until they attain their full size, the flowers wither- 
 ing off. 
 
 Dates are gathered for preserving a little before they are ripe, 
 but if wanted for eating fresh they are left on the tree until 
 they have perfectly ripened, in which state they are most excel- 
 lent. They cannot, however, be kept in their ripe state for any 
 length of time, or be sent to any great distance, as they soon 
 ferment and become acid. This is why they are never tasted 
 to perfection except in Eastern countries. Those intended for 
 exportation are dried in the sun on mats. The dates which 
 come into the European markets from Barbary and the Levant 
 are always in this state ; they contain a large amount of nourish- 
 ment, and the Arabs rarely travel without a bag of them in the 
 dried state. 
 
 Date Paste is prepared by pressing the fruit after the stones 
 are extracted. The date palm is useful in many ways the fruit 
 for drying, pressing, and preserving, also for making into tarts. 
 The stalks of the fruit and the kernels, by boiling, become quite 
 soft, and cattle are fed on them. A strong spirit is distilled 
 from the fruit. Palm wine is made from the sap of the tree. 
 Only those trees which no longer bear fruit are cut down for 
 this purpose. The fibrous parts of the leaves and stalks of the
 
 Indian Fruits and Conserves. 119 
 
 fruit are made into baskets, ropes, and mats. Cordage is made 
 from the inner bark of the tree, and the trunk answers admirably 
 for posts, rails, fencing, &c., because it is impervious to the 
 attacks of white ants. 
 
 Another sort of date palm grows also in India, a smaller kind, 
 the Phoenix farinifera. This is a lower growing tree, more 
 bushy, and the leaves are greener. It flowers and fruits in 
 much the same way, only the dates are almost black in colour 
 when ripe, have not so much pulp, and are less pleasant to the 
 taste, being more mealy and rather insipid. A farinaceous 
 matter is obtained from the trunk, which by the natives is used 
 for food. 
 
 The fig tree flourishes in India, and bears fruit almost all the 
 year round. Two varieties are cultivated, the white and the 
 blue ; the best and finest fruit is borne by the young trees, from 
 two to six years old. 
 
 In India the fig is called unjeer ; it is easily grown, cuttings 
 striking very readily in about six weeks. Manuring round the 
 roots as the tree increases in size is much resorted to; old 
 branches, as they have borne fruit, are pruned away each year, 
 leaving a few buds to throw out healthy young shoots. There 
 is something very curious about the fructification of the unjeer. 
 The fig itself consists of a pulp containing a quantity of seedlike 
 pericarps enclosed in a rind. The tree has no visible flower ; 
 the fruit rises at once from the joints of the tree in the shape 
 of tiny buds, with a small perforation at the end ; there is, 
 however, no appearance of petals, but as the fig enlarges the 
 flower comes to maturity in its concealment. In France and 
 Italy the fruit is pricked as soon as it commences to ripen, and a 
 drop of sweet oil is put on the spot, which is said to very much 
 increase its size. I do not remember to have heard of this being 
 done by the natives of India ; but they protect it from the attacks 
 of birds and insects by enclosing each fig in a muslin bag. 
 
 Fig Jam is often made in India. It is rather too luscious for 
 my taste, but many are very partial to it. The ripe fruit is 
 collected, carefully picked over, and skinned, then laid in a china 
 bowl with sugar candy (pounded) strewed thickly over it. It 
 should remain for twelve hours and then be weighed (allowing 
 to each pound of fruit a pound of preserving sugar), be placed in 
 a preserving pan, and be skimmed frequently until it is clear and 
 begins to jelly, when it should be poured into pots, tying down 
 when cold and firm.
 
 I2O Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 The Ficus Bengalensis, or common banyan-tree, is nearly allied 
 to the Ficus carica, being, indeed, called the Indian fig-tree, and 
 it deserves notice, not on account of its fruit, but because it is a 
 sacred tree, and held in immense veneration by the Hindoos. It 
 attains a vast size and grows in a very singular manner, shooting 
 down in the direction of the earth and taking root, until at last 
 one tree forms a perfect grove, for as the rootlets attain maturity 
 they, too, throw down their shoots, propagating in the same 
 manner. 
 
 The Ficus elastica (Indian caoutchouc tree) comes under the 
 same species, as do the Ficus Benjamina, F. religiosa, F. race- 
 mosa, F. excelsa, F. oppositi folia, and F. rubescens. Nearly all 
 these have medicinal properties, and are used by the natives in 
 various diseases ; the bark, seeds, leaves, &c., being severally useful. 
 
 Grapes (in Hindustani ungoor), are cultivated nearly all over 
 India ; the finest come from the Deccan, with the exception of 
 the Cabuli grape, imported from Cabul, of which I shall have 
 occasion to write presently. The four sorts best known amongst 
 the natives are the Hubshe, Bokerie, or Abba, Fukkrie, and 
 Sahiba. 
 
 The general mode of culture is from slips, which are taken 
 when the first cutting is over after the rains. When these slips 
 are ready to be removed they are planted from 8ft. to 9ft. apart, 
 and for the first year they are trained on dry sticks ; then large 
 straight branches of the pangrah are cut, a fork being left at the 
 top of each branch to support the vine. These poles are stuck 
 into the ground about a foot or so from the vine, if too far off it 
 acquires a bend which is hurtful to it, for its stem cannot be too 
 straight. The pangrah branches are usually 5ft. in height. It 
 has been proved that the best soil in which to grow vines is that 
 the natives call pandree, and is the white earth they build their 
 houses of. In black soil, or even in a mixture of black and white, 
 the grapes do not acquire so rich a flavour as they do in pandree, 
 though in the mixture the vines themselves grow well, but they 
 go to leaf too much, and the fruit suffers in consequence. It is 
 usual to water the vines every third or fourth day during the hot 
 and cold seasons after they have been cut for the first crop, which 
 cutting takes place in April. The bunches require trimming as 
 soon as they are about the size of small peas. When they are 
 full and ripe, water must be withheld, unless in very dry soils. 
 Directly the first crop is over the cutting for the second com- 
 mences, unless it is thought advisable to check it, when the
 
 Indian Fruits and Conserves. 121 
 
 flowers should all be picked off as they appear. Most mallees, 
 however, allow a second crop, as then the vine does not grow too 
 luxuriantly, and so become weak. The vine roots are opened up 
 after each crop, manured, and well watered. Dr. Biddell says 
 that after the rains, when the vine is cut for the sweet crop, some 
 gardeners pursue this method of treatment, which is considered, 
 he adds, almost a secret : " 21b. of dried fish, 4oz. of common 
 salt, and ^oz. of asafoetida are mixed up in sixteen quarts of 
 butter-milk, and allowed to digest for three weeks. This 
 quantity is sufficient for five trees. The vine is first cleaned of 
 all its rugged and rough bark, which harbours insects, the leaves 
 having been picked off about three weeks previous to cutting, 
 with a view to hardening the wood ; the vine is then cut, leaving 
 three or four eyes only on each bough close to the stem. It is 
 then allowed to drop four days, after which the earth is opened 
 round the roots and cleared away. It remains in this state four 
 days more ; then the earth is again put round the roots mixed 
 with a proportion of the above compost. The vine is left for 
 another three days, when water is given to it. After this the 
 watering ceases, until it is in full blossom, when irrigation is con- 
 tinued every fourth day during the season." The vines in the 
 public gardens in India, the ''company baghs," often form a very 
 pretty sight, being grown in bowers and archways ; the tree 
 lends itself to this plan, being such a graceful free grower. It 
 requires, however, plenty of sun and a certain amount of pro- 
 tection from wind, especially that from the north-west. Vine 
 culture is making rapid strides in Cashmere, and it seems that 
 before long India may be in a position to supply herself with 
 wine of home manufacture, as she does with beer. Cashmere 
 has long been the home, the Happy Valley in particular, of 
 splendid grapes. At last the Maharaja appears to have had his 
 eyes opened to the fact that a profitable industry may be made 
 out of the grapes grown in his dominions. Three Frenchmen, 
 trained experts in vine culture, now reside in the country at 
 Srinuggur and all is being done that is possible to sfcart the 
 experiment well. Cuttings and seeds were imported from France 
 some two or three years ago from the best French vines, and it 
 is reported that these have thriven even beyond expectation. 
 There is no reason to doubt that in time the wine from Cashmere 
 will find favour not only in India, but in other countries, for the 
 district is evidently well suited to the growth of the vine. The 
 Cabuli grapes, to which I have before referred, are very generally
 
 122 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 eaten in all parts of India ; they are very thick skinned, but have 
 the true Muscat flavour. The traders bring them down country 
 wrapped singly in cotton wool in boxes, in which state they 
 travel very well. 
 
 The small sweet water grape makes a very good jelly, treated 
 in the following manner: Pluck the fruit when quite ripe, 
 put it into a stone jar, and stand the jar in a saucepan three 
 parts full of cold water. Wrap the jar in hay or straw so 
 that it does not move about ; simmer for half an hour. Take 
 it out and empty it into a jelly-bag. Strain the juice twice 
 over, but do not squeeze the fruit at all. To every pint of 
 juice add l^lb. of loaf sugar; put it into a preserving pan and 
 serve for nearly an hour, stirring and skimming all the time. 
 When it is quite clear pour into jars and tie down very carefully 
 with bran died paper. 
 
 This plan might well be tried at home with grapes that will 
 not ripen fully, only in that case more sugar would have to be 
 used. 
 
 The banana, or common plantain, the botanical name of 
 which is Musa paradisiaca, is largely cultivated in India, and 
 is very highly esteemed by the natives on account of its use- 
 fulness. It is common to both the East and West Indies, and 
 several varieties are grown. In the Himalayas it flourishes at 
 an altitude of 5000ft., and in the Neilgherries is found at the 
 height of 7000ft. According to Lindley, there are ten species 
 of musa, but it is not necessary to mention them all. The one 
 under notice is that most generally met with. It is an 
 herbaceous plant, with a simple stem thickly clothed with the 
 sheathing petioles of the leaves, which form a large tuft at 
 the top of the stem ; the flowers grow in spikes, and are of a 
 yellowish white colour ; in form the fruit is oblong, fleshy, 
 with numerous seeds buried in pulp. It flowers all the year 
 round, and in eight or nine months after the sucker has been 
 planted the fruit begins to form in clusters, which are fit to 
 cut in the tenth and eleventh months. When the stalk is cut, 
 the fruit of which has ripened, a sprout is put forth, and this 
 bears fruit again in about three months. This second crop 
 is not, however, of such good quality as the first, and is very 
 frequently cut down, the surrounding shoots springing from 
 the base of the stem being allowed to blossom and bear instead. 
 It is usual to grow the plants in clusters or beds in a rich soil ; 
 and those so treated bear very fine fruit. They need little
 
 Indian Fruits and Conserves. 123 
 
 attention ; the labour required for a plantation of bananas is to 
 cut the stalks which are laden with fruit they are cut before 
 being quite ripe, when they are seen to change colour, and 
 hung up to ripen in the house and give manure round the roots, 
 digging up the earth and mixing the manure with it twice 
 a year. One cluster of bananas, produced on a single plant, 
 often contains from 150 to 170, and weighs from 501b. to 701b. 
 
 The banana is considered most nutritious and very wholesome, 
 either cooked or eaten in its natural state, and is so easily 
 grown that the natives have usually a small plantation of 
 plantains round their huts. In many parts they nearly live 
 on them, and so highly do they esteem the plant that during 
 their numerous festivals, or on the occasion of a marriage, this 
 emblem of plenty and fertility will be seen placed at the 
 entrance to the house. It grows well in almost any soil, 
 provided it is nourished fairly ; manure, every year or twice a 
 year, is essential to its well being. Newly-cleared forest land 
 is said to suit it best where the soil is enriched with decayed 
 vegetable matter. If the stem which has borne fruit is cut 
 down when the fruit has been gathered, new shoots spring up 
 very quickly round the old stem, and as these are cut others 
 shoot up in their places, and will continue to do so from fifteen 
 to twenty years in succession. The fruit is so nutritious that 
 Professor Johnston wrote of it in the Journal of the Agricultural 
 Society of Scotland: "We find the plantain fruit to approach 
 most nearly in composition and nutritive value to the potato, 
 and the plantain meal to those of rice. Thus, the fruit of the 
 plantain gives 37 per cent, and the potato 25 per cent, of dry 
 matter." It contains alkaline matter, potash, and soda salts, 
 as does the potato, and both possess nearly the same percentage 
 of phosphoric acid and magnesia. As far, therefore, as the 
 supply of the mineral ingredients are concerned, the plantain, 
 or banana, equally with the potato, is fitted to sustain the 
 physical strength. 
 
 The ripe fruit of the banana is preserved by drying in the 
 sun, and these dried bananas are pleasant and agreeable to the 
 taste. They form an article of commerce in Bombay, and also 
 in other parts of India. Meal is extracted from the fruit also by 
 cutting it in slices, drying in the sun, and then pounding. It is 
 to this meal Professor Johnston refers. Besides the uses of this 
 fruit as food, the plantain, particularly the Musa textilis, yields 
 a fibre which is a very good substitute for hemp, and the musa
 
 124 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 above mentioned likewise yields a very fine sort of flax, from 
 which a delicate cloth is manufactured ; the coarser kinds of fibre 
 are useful for cordage, ships' ropes, and also for paper manu- 
 facture. Some very durable kinds of paper have been made in 
 India from this fibre, and some also of fine quality. The leaves 
 .(young ones) are used in dressing blistered surfaces, and are very 
 effectual in healing the same, also in dressing ulcers and wounds, 
 while a water which flows from the stem of the plant has been 
 found useful in cases of hemorrhage from the lungs, &c. The 
 preserved (dried) fruit is a nourishing and antiscorbutic article 
 of diet for long voyages. Green plantains are often made into 
 chutney thus : Peel off the skins of three or four green plantains 
 after they have been well roasted ; grind up some dhall, about 
 a tablespoonful, and three dried red chillies, and fry in butter ; 
 then pound altogether, adding salt and the juice of a green lime. 
 As far as flavour is concerned, the small banana, supposed to be 
 the real banana of the West Indies, is, perhaps, the best of all ; 
 some of the larger kinds are very insipid to European taste. 
 Those we see in the shops here are cut in quite a green state, 
 and ripened in the sun after they reach our shores ; but their 
 flavour gives you but a faint idea of the taste of one of the 
 small luscious bananas which are picked off the plant almost 
 ripe, and are ready to eat in a day or two at most. Fried 
 bananas are very excellent, as also in puddings or tarts in the 
 latter with the addition of custard. 
 
 I used to amuse myself in India by trying experiments with 
 the fruits of the country, sometimes with good results, and 
 occasionally with the reverse. The oranges are, I think, the 
 most disappointing of Indian fruits ; they have, in most cases, 
 such abnormally thick skins, such provokingly woolly interiors, 
 and so little juice. I am writing now of the large common sorts. 
 The finest kinds are the Cintra (these have a thin rind), the 
 Cowlah, and the Mandarin (I think it is called), a tiny orange, 
 but deliciously sweet. There is a large Mandarin orange with a 
 very loose skin, and I conclude the smaller is of the same kind, 
 as the skin is loose and comes off very easily, the fruit within 
 being sweet-scented and juicy. It is the common orange of the 
 country, called koda by the natives, which is such a very 
 indifferent product. The Sautgur oranges are good, as are the 
 Burrachin or large China ; but these are from imported seed 
 at least, the latter is. The chief method of culture is by 
 budding, the stocks being generally seedlings or cuttings from
 
 Indian Fruits and Conserves. 125 
 
 the aweet lime ; the operation of budding is best performed in 
 the cold season. There are very many ways of preserving and 
 cooking oranges, and most of the methods in vogue in England 
 obtain in India for example, orange puffs, orange cheesecakes, 
 orange custard, orange tart, orange fool, orange fritters, orange 
 jelly, orange chips, candied orange peel, orange syrup, compote 
 of oranges, oranges glaces, oranges preserved whole, in syrup, in 
 wine ; marmalade, &c. The Indian oranges that is, the 
 inferior sort are much better prepared in some way before 
 eating, and there are so many ways of dressing them that no 
 difficulty need arise on that score. The Hindoos have a strong 
 belief in the medicinal properties of oranges as purifiers of the 
 blood, and in this I quite agree with them, for I firmly believe 
 that if people would take, habitually, an orange au naturel, 
 either the last thing at night or the first thing in the morning, 
 they would find their health in many ways improved by the 
 practice. The rind, it is well known, is a useful carminative, 
 and a very valuable addition to bitter infusions in cases of 
 dyspepsia. Pulverised and added to rhubarb and magnesia, the 
 rind is given in cases of gout. The fruit itself (ripe) is 
 invaluable in scurvy, and the pulp roasted is used as an applica- 
 tion to ulcers. Orange water is used in medicine, in cooking, 
 and as a perfume, the flowers being distilled for this purpose; in 
 fact, there are a hundred and one ways in which the fruit of the 
 Citrus aurantium is useful to mankind. I have forgotten to 
 name the orange as an ornamental plant in our greenhouses, but 
 certainly this might also be mentioned when summing up its 
 many uses. I have at this present moment in my mind's eye a 
 large orangery which I walked through not long since three 
 greenhouses turned into one large one, opening out of a library 
 in a country house, the whole forming a pleasant walk for its 
 aged owner. The orange trees when I was there were in their 
 full beauty, the houses heavy with the scent of their flowers, 
 and from beneath their glossy dark green leaves peeped the 
 fruit in all its stages of growth, green and tiny as well as fairly 
 large and deep yellow, or rather, orange-coloured, the snowy 
 flowers adding not a little to the beauty of the houses. Some of 
 these trees are very old, and I remember them well in my child- 
 hood. Now they are tall and spreading, reaching 'high above 
 my head ; some of them must be from 18ft. to 20ft. or more, 
 presenting a unique sight in England, and reminding one of 
 orange groves abroad.
 
 126 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 The cocoa-nut tree (Cocus nucifera) is so well known that it 
 is hardly necessary to describe it. Its usefulness it is scarcely 
 possible to over-rate; its roots are chewed by the natives, 
 its young buds are cooked as a vegetable and eaten, the juice 
 from its stems is made into palm wine, and also toddy, from 
 which the fiery arrack is distilled. The ripe fruit is very good 
 for food ; the bark forms a very valuable fibre the coir of 
 commerce ; the leaves are used for thatching the native huts, and 
 they are also made into baskets, hats, lanterns, buckets, brushes, 
 and fans ; their ashes, when burnt, yield potash ; the shells of 
 the nuts are made into drinking cups. The kernels yield on 
 pressure the cocoanut oil so much in demand, and candles are 
 made from the refuse left from oil making. This oil is much 
 used in India for lamps and also for culinary purposes. Each 
 tree bears from eighty to 100 nuts, and continues bearing for 
 over 70 years. It grows to the height of from 60ft. to 90ft., the 
 leaves measuring from 12ft. to 15ft. in length. Cocoa-nut trees 
 grow best near the sea ; but they also flourish inland, and, indeed, 
 thrive readily anywhere when cultivated. For the first few 
 years they need care and watering, after which they grow veiy 
 well of themselves with little or no attention. The cocoannt 
 palm was introduced into India from Ceylon, since when its 
 cultivation has steadily increased. A considerable trade is done 
 in cocoa-nut oil, which is exported in large quantities from 
 Bengal, Bombay, and Madras to other countries, England taking 
 a large share of the exports. The oil fetches, generally, from 
 40 to 50 per ton, but sometimes a good deal more. 
 
 Bhere Fruit (Ziziphus Jujuba) is common all over India, the 
 tree which bears it being found in nearly every jungle. It has 
 a pleasant flavour, and ten crops are obtained each year, the best 
 being that plucked in January. In shape the fruit is oblong, 
 and it contains a stone ; the taste rather resembles that of a fresh 
 apple. 
 
 Jamoon or Jambool, known by botanists as Eugenia Jambolania, 
 is a large and very handsome tree, bearing a fruit very much 
 like a common blue plum, which is generally soaked in salt 
 and water before it is eaten to lessen its roughness to 
 the taste. It makes a very good jelly prepared thus : The fruit, 
 after washing, is boiled with a little water until very soft, 
 strained, then lime juice is added, and it is re-boiled, being 
 reduced very much in the second boiling. Sugar candy is then 
 added in the proportion of l^lb. to 1 pint of juice. When it
 
 Indian Fruits and Conserves. 127 
 
 sets well, it is allowed to partially cool, and then poured into pots 
 and tied down. It is a beautiful colour when ready, a rich deep 
 purple, and very good to the taste. 
 
 The Guava. This tree grows nearly all over India. The 
 fruit is unpleasant to eat in its natural state, as it has such a 
 very powerful and disagreeable smell. If kept when ripe in the 
 house the odour is simply unbearable, but made into jelly it is 
 delicious, as most people are well aware ; it is also made into 
 preserve. The following is a good recipe for making 
 
 Guava Jelly. Take 81b. of ripe guavas, peel them carefully, 
 and divide them into quarters ; boil them with a little water, 
 and strain through a jelly bag ; then add the juice of eight limes, 
 or ten if small, and 1^ Ib. of sugar candy ; boil again, and skim 
 very frequently until it is ready to set. Test it on a plate to see 
 if it sets readily ; then, if jars are used, pour hot into them, 
 but if glass bottles, allow to partially cool before pouring off. 
 Tie down securely. 
 
 Peaches grow fairly well in India, but the fruit is mostly of an 
 inferior description. Some, however, that I have tasted were 
 of good flavour, but they, though they look nice outside, are too 
 frequently rotten at the core. They are easily cultivated after 
 much the same manner as in England, well pruned, kept watered, 
 and the insects which infest them kept down. As the fruit 
 ripens it must be enclosed in bags to prevent birds and insects 
 attacking it. 
 
 Apricots are not grown to much perfection in India, the fruit 
 not ripening well. 
 
 Apples, English and Persian, grow well in the Deccan and in 
 other parts ; they are treated in the same way as in England. 
 The "borer," a sort of caterpillar, is very destructive to them, 
 and must be carefully looked for and destroyed. 
 
 Pear Trees are rare, and the fruit of a very coarse description, 
 hardly fit even for stewing. 
 
 The Alligator Pear, known as Laurus Persea, and called very 
 often " subaltern's butter " why I do not know is a very 
 peculiar fruit. The tree which bears it is of a large size, and 
 the fruit itself is from six to seven or eight inches long and about 
 three inches thick. The outside skin is dark green ; the interior 
 is a white creamy sort of pulp, rather sweet to the taste. 
 
 The Bread-fruit Tree bears another curious fruit, the size of 
 a large orange ; it is usually cut into slices and fried as potatoes 
 would be, and the taste is not unlike that of a sweet potato.
 
 128 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 It ripens best in the Deccan, the fruit on the large Bombay trees 
 rarely attaining perfection. 
 
 The Leichte was introduced originally from China. It is a 
 large tree, an evergreen, and the fruit is dark brown in colour, 
 the inside pulp being yellow, glutinous, and sweet to the taste ; 
 but its quality is very inferior to that of the Chinese fruit. 
 March and April are the months in which it is ripe and fit to 
 eat. 
 
 The Loquat, called botanically Meopilus Eriobotryna Japonica, 
 is another fruit tree introduced from China. It bears two crops 
 of fruit in the year, the latest being the best. In colour the 
 loquat is yellow, has a thin skin, and contains a sweet pulp, 
 which has an agreeable taste. 
 
 The Pummelo, or Citrus Decumana, is the largest of all the 
 orange tribe. It is very ornamental, and is found in nearly 
 every Indian garden. The fruit is very large, rather coarse, but 
 much esteemed for preserving. Candied pummelo peel is much 
 used in cooking. A liqueur is made also of the rind. 
 
 The Lemon Tree, called by the natives Neemloo, and by 
 botanists Citrus lemona, grows all over India. There are a great 
 many varieties, and most are very easily cultivated ; the fruit of 
 both large and smalt kinds yields a quantity of juice, from which 
 most refreshing drinks are concocted. The lime, which is the 
 smallest of the lemon tribe, is very productive, fruiting all the 
 year round, if well looked after, carefully pruned, and watered. 
 
 The Sweet Lime is another variety, and is called in Hindus- 
 tani Meeta neemboo. The juice of this fruit makes a very 
 excellent beverage for invalids. 
 
 The simplest manner of making a lime juice drink is to cut 
 the limes in halves, and squeeze them in a wooden lemon 
 squeezer, straining the juice afterwards, and adding sugar to 
 taste ; it should be iced, which makes it much more refreshing, 
 and should always be made from freshly gathered limes or 
 lemons. Lemon whey is made by taking the strained juice of 
 two lemons, adding to it a pint and a half of milk, simmering it 
 with sugar (pounded white) added to taste, and then re-straining 
 it carefully through muslin. Green limes are very largely used in 
 India in cooking various dishes, and for ordinary use as a cooling 
 drink, and in cases of fever. They are also preserved whole, or 
 in portions ; syrup is made of them, pickle, marmalade, jelly, 
 and so on. 
 
 Tamarinds, the fruit of the Tamarindus Indica, are very
 
 Indian Fruits and Conserves. 129 
 
 useful ; the red tamarind is the most valued, but it is rather 
 scarce. The pulp of the pods is used both in food and medicine. 
 The juice is very pleasant, containing a larger proportion of acid 
 with the saccharine matter than is usually found in acid fruit. 
 Tamarinds are excellent preserved. 
 
 Tamarind Preserve. Take off the outer shells and split the 
 tamarinds lengthwise in order to remove the seeds ; have four 
 times the weight of the fruit of finely powdered sugar, and make 
 into a syrup, boiling it thoroughly, and adding the juice of three, 
 four, or more limes, according to the quantity of fruit used; 
 this juice must be strained before putting to the syrup, then, 
 after it has boiled a few minutes, put in the tamarinds ; allow to 
 simmer for about five minutes, then take off the fire, and put 
 the fruit into jars, pouring the syrup over ; cover down the 
 jars. The fruit for preserving should be gathered just before 
 it is ripe. Another and more simple way of preserving this 
 fruit is to put it into jars, in alternate layers of fruit and 
 powdered sugar until the jars are full. The jars should be of 
 stone. So preserved, tamarinds keep their colour and their taste 
 well. 
 
 Tamarind Water is a refreshing drink for invalids. It is 
 made by removing the outer shells, splitting the tamarinds 
 lengthwise, and pouring boiling water on the fruit, powdered 
 sugar being added to taste. The jug must be covered over, and 
 the liquid allowed to cool very gradually ; it should be strained 
 before use. In cases of fever it is a good drink for the patient, 
 but as it is a slight laxative it must be given with a certain 
 amount of caution. In sore throat both tamarind water and 
 the pulp administered by itself are good. Sauce made from the 
 fresh fruit is in India generally served with roast duck. The 
 tamarind has also economic uses. The timber is hard and good 
 for building purposes, and a yellow dye is obtained by infusing 
 the leaves ; it yields a red dye also. There is a considerable 
 export trade in tamarinds from Bombay and Madras. 
 
 The Pomegranate Tree (Punica Granatum) is not a native of 
 India, but is indigenous to Carthage, and was thence introduced 
 into India, France, Barbary, and Southern Europe. Eoyle, 
 however, says it grows wild in the Himalaya. The fruit is useful 
 in medicine, the rind being chiefly employed. The pulp is a 
 gentle laxative, and a refreshing drink is made from it. In 
 cases of dysentery a decoction made from the fruit is often given 
 with success.
 
 130 Indian Out jits and Establishments, 
 
 Pomegranate Water is made in the same way as tamarind 
 water. 
 
 The other Indian fruits do not call for much notice. The 
 bilimbi, bullock's heart, cashew-nut, hog-plum, kurunder, olive, 
 paneola plum, papaw, pistachio-nut, star apple, sapota, soursop, 
 and wampee, are amongst those most frequently met with. Of 
 European fruits cultivated in India, and hitherto not mentioned, 
 are the berberry, strawberry, blackberry, raspberry, gooseberry, 
 mulberry, white, red, and black, pineapple, common plum, 
 quince, and walnut, all of which are grown in different parts of 
 the country.
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 LIVE STOCK. 
 
 Management of Horses Stabling Saddlery and Harness 
 The Carriage Forage Ailments of Horses Various 
 Breeds Cows Their Treatment Working Bullocks 
 Goats Sheep Rabbits Teal and Quail Turkeys, Geese, 
 and Ducks Peafowl Occupation and Interest Created by 
 Live Stock. 
 
 MY book would be incomplete without a few suggestions as to 
 the management of live stock. 
 
 First in importance, naturally, I rank the stable. Stables in 
 India are very unlike the well-built stables we are accustomed 
 to in England, for generally mud huts are made to do duty for 
 the horses, and most likely these huts will be in the same row 
 as those belonging to the servants, and be very much like them, 
 as far as that goes four mud walls, with a thatched roof, an 
 opening for a window, ditto for a door, and with very primitive 
 draining provision. 
 
 It is not, however, a work of much time to make the so- 
 called stable a rather less miserable abode at all events, a trifle 
 more healthy for its inmates. We had the windows enlarged in 
 the two huts we only kept two horses and chics fitted to 
 them, the flooring taken up and relaid, sloping towards the 
 drains in the centre of the huts, bars put before the doors (or 
 the openings which served for them), racks fixed, not above the 
 horses' heads a very objectionable plan of fixing them, and too 
 often ruling even in England but on a level with the troughs 
 for gram (corn). The huts were then somewhat an imitation of 
 a loose box. 
 
 The native grooms (syces) never use brushes or other ordinary 
 stable appliances, their method being to rub the horses with 
 
 K2
 
 132 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 their naked hand and arm, and it is unwise to interfere with 
 this custom, as they keep a horse's coat in very fine condition 
 by mere "elbow grease." Of course, the syces want looking 
 after ; they are lazy, as are the whole fraternity of grooms, 
 white or coloured, requiring to be kept up to their work and to 
 have a watchful eye over them, for too often they will steal the 
 horses' grain, and in cold weather strip the animals under their 
 charge of the clothing you have provided for them, wrapping 
 themselves in it instead. A visit to your stable at night every 
 now and then, and always at different hours, is quite necessary 
 to detect these malpractices and stop them. 
 
 The native manner of tying up a horse (on the full stretch 
 by heel ropes) is very bad, and should never be allowed, unless 
 perhaps at night in the height of the hot season, and then only 
 the hind legs should be fastened, but not tightly. To keep 
 horses in good condition in India they must be exercised every 
 day without fail. This exercise they generally get, as it is 
 usual to ride or drive, as the case may be, twice every day in 
 the early morning and in the cool of the evening. Moreover, 
 when a horse is brought home from his canter it is usual to 
 walk him about until he cools before the hand rubbing is 
 commenced. 
 
 All saddlery and harness is best kept in the bungalow in a 
 spare room, as you can then look it over yourself daily and see 
 that it is kept in thorough order, the steel bright and the leather 
 soft and pliable. We always did this, the syces fetching the 
 saddles and bridles from the house when they were required for 
 use. A carriage would be kept in the vicinity of the stable, in 
 one of the mud huts before mentioned. Covers should be pro- 
 vided for it, one of waterproof for the rainy season, and one of 
 light washing material during the hot weather. Mats, whips, 
 harness, and, in damp weather, cushions, should be kept in the 
 bungalow. You must give an eye every now and then to the 
 carriage itself, the wheels, linch-pins, pole, shafts, lamps, and so 
 on, because you will not be told if they are in an unsafe condi- 
 tion, but left to find it out for yourself. 
 
 Keep the corn (gram as it is called in India) under lock and 
 key, and give it out yourself. A large tin-lined box or grain 
 chest, with a division, and a good padlock should be kept for 
 this purpose ; the box standing on bricks to allow a current of 
 air to pass underneath, and prevent the contents getting damp 
 or mildewed in the rainy season.
 
 Live Stock. 133 
 
 A horse is generally allowed about from 121b. to 141b. of 
 grass per diem, besides his gram, averaging from 2 to 4 seers 
 daily, according to the size of the animal and the amount 
 of work he is required to do. The food should be varied 
 now and then, urdawa being given alternately with gram and 
 bran (suthoo) occasionally in mashes. Salt should be mixed 
 with the food, and a bit of rock salt kept in the stable for 
 the horse to lick a large block, which there is no danger of 
 his swallowing. 
 
 The " grasscut " (you have to keep one certainly, if not a 
 couple, to look after two horses), goes out daily to cut the grass, 
 returning with enough for a day's consumption. It is best, if 
 possible, to get the grass cut fresh every day, as the horses eat 
 it with more appetite. We made one grasscut do the cutting 
 for two horses, but you cannot always depend on this ; and in 
 such case you would probably keep two syces ; we had two, one 
 for each horse. Grass bought in the bazaars, being generally 
 stale, is not nearly so good as that your own men go out into 
 the country and cut. 
 
 Every now and then you should give your cattle a spice ball ; 
 some give one a week ; they tend to keep the animals in health 
 and condition. It is best to get these from a good native "vet.," 
 as they are cunningly made, and if you got a recipe and made 
 them yourself you would not find them the same as those you 
 buy from a native veterinary surgeon. 
 
 Your stable, with two horses, two syces, and one grasscut, 
 ought not to cost you more than forty rupees a month, or about 
 4 English money ; for this you would include three maunds, 
 ten seers of gram, the same quantity of urdawa, two maunds of 
 bran, four seers of salt, shoeing, wages, and, say, five or six 
 rupees for incidental expenses, repairs, and so on. Thus you 
 would reckon your yearly expenses at 480 rupees, or 48 I will 
 call it 50. For that sum, with a little management, you ought 
 to keep the stable in good order. 
 
 If the gram is bruised it will be found to go further, and is 
 really better for the animals. If not bruised it should be soaked 
 before being given, as the whole gram is apt to swell, and if such 
 is the case it is very injurious to the animal eating it. It is a 
 good plan to have your horses brought up in front of your 
 bungalow, and see them fed yourself ; if this be done, have the 
 nosebags brought to you before being strapped on, as otherwise 
 you may find them ingeniously stuffed at the bottom tightly
 
 134 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 with grass, and the corn, not of course the whole feed, some of 
 which has been purloined, placed on the top. 
 
 Washing horses daily, in the hot weather is a usual practice, 
 and if the animals be thoroughly well dried, it is a beneficial 
 one, but not else, and in the rainy season it should not be allowed, 
 as they are very likely to get a chill from it. The amount of 
 water must be regulated by circumstances, and, if possible, soft 
 water should be given instead of hard. This, however, in 
 India, is difficult to procure, so the water should be taken from 
 the well some hours before it is required and allow to stand in 
 the open air. This will soften it ; or it may be drawn and 
 thrown into a barrel without a cover, which has a tap fixed 
 near the bottom, and drawn off. It must not stand too long, 
 however, and if a cask is used in this way the water must 
 frequently all be drawn off, and the inside thoroughly cleansed 
 and scoured out. Horses keep their health in India pretty well ; 
 country breeds are very hardy and so are Arabs generally ; 
 English and Australian horses (walers) want care until they are 
 acclimatised. 
 
 Country breeds are the best for all round work, and are 
 not dear ; for from 12 to 15 you may often pick up a very 
 decent animal, which will be more useful than a high priced 
 Arab. We had too excellent country breds which did all our 
 work well, and never seemed sick or sorry. Horses suffer a 
 good deal from "gripes" in India, and the more promptly 
 they are treated when so attacked the better. Never let a 
 horse suffering from this disease stand still; move him about 
 briskly, and drench him as soon as possible with good gin. 
 I have seen a whole bottle given in a bad case, and with 
 great success. The animal should have its stomach hand- 
 rubbed by two people, one on each side, briskly for a few 
 minutes, then be walked about, then rubbed again, and so on, 
 until the paroxysms seem to pass off, but the sooner the gin 
 is given the better. Gripes are said to be brought on by 
 drinking very cold water in large quantities when the animal 
 is over-heated, but bad grass, or a sudden chill, will bring them 
 on. 
 
 Horses in India are also very subject to sore backs. The best 
 preventive and we all know that "prevention is better than 
 cure " is to have a pad, called in India a numdah, cut to fit the 
 animal's back beneath the saddle exactly. If this is always 
 worn, the saddle even that awkwardly-contrived thing, a lady's
 
 Live Stock. 135 
 
 saddle will not rub a horse. When the sores or blisters 
 underneath saddles or harness are merely trifling, and are 
 perceived at once, they should be bathed constantly with salt 
 and water. If more serious, the following application will be 
 found of service : Take a good-sized brinjal, or fruit of the egg 
 plant (Solatium melongena), which is very generally grown all 
 over India, boil it in arrack, then divide it in half, and soak it 
 in the arrack. Apply the soft side, warm, to the sore every 
 morning and evening, and relief will soon be given. You must 
 look over your horses frequently, and also see to your saddles, 
 if they or the harness require any attention, for a slight sore 
 a native groom thinks of very little consequence, and he would 
 not dream of telling the sahib or the mem-sahib about it. 
 
 Personal supervision, I would remark, all native servants. 
 require, whether indoor or outdoor, and this should always be 
 borne in mind. With it they will make good servants, without 
 it they will be lazy, and too often cheat to any extent. 
 
 Having disposed of the stables, I proceed to consider the care 
 of cows, bullocks, goats, sheep, rabbits, fowls, and the like. 
 
 Of cows, the best for milch purposes are unquestionably the 
 Guzerati, that is, in Western India ; in the southern portion of 
 the empire, the Mysore and Nellore ; and in the upper provinces, 
 the Nagore. The first named give the most milk, from five to 
 six seers per diem ; the others, Nellore and Nagore, about half 
 that quantity ; the usual time for calving is during the rainy 
 season. Many people in India keep cows ; indeed, if you want 
 to have good butter, cream, and milk, you must do so. 
 
 In some parts there is a difficulty in obtaining good pasturage. 
 The usual method is to send the animals out in the country 
 under the charge of a milkman during the day, who brings them 
 home to be milked at night, or else the cows are put in care 
 of a herdsman, who is paid so much a head, from 4 to 8 annas 
 a month, and he takes them out each morning, and brings 
 them back in the evening. The amount of gram (corn) given 
 to each cow depends on the amount of milk she is giving, 
 but it is necessary to keep a very sharp eye on your milkman, 
 or he will water the milk to increase the quantity, and when 
 extra corn is allowed, take it for himself ; and he is versed 
 in every kind of artifice to deceive you. The price of good cows 
 ranges from 30 to 80 rupees for a Guzerati, from 30 to 60 for a 
 Nellore or Nagore, and from to 6 to 18 for a good country cow. 
 
 With regard to the making of butter, every pan, pail, &c., used
 
 136 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 must be kept even more scrupulously clean than in England, as 
 the heat of the climate causes the milk to taint and turn sour 
 very quickly. It must be strained through perfectly clean 
 muslin into tin pans, or else those of glazed ware, not earthen- 
 ware, this causing, from its porousness, an old scent, which even 
 washing the pans cannot remove. The best pans are, really 
 speaking, those large china ones which can be picked up very 
 cheap in some bazaars ; these should be fitted with fine screens 
 to keep away the flies. If cream is wanted, it must be skimmed 
 off before the milk has turned the least degree sour, which is 
 very soon the case in India. 
 
 When the batter is taken from the churn as little water 
 should be used in preparing it as possible, and it should be 
 worked up with a wooden spatula, never touched with the hand. 
 As I have already referred to butter- making in a former chapter, 
 I need add nothing further here. 
 
 Working Bullocks are not very expensive animals to buy, 
 unless they are well bred ; but as an ordinary bullock does his 
 work quite as well as one of a more choice description, it is really 
 no gain to buy expensive beasts. They are fed on grass, cotton 
 pods, boosah, and if worked very hard, should be allowed a little 
 gram as well. 
 
 Goats are nearly always found where there are children, as the 
 milk is supposed to be better and more nourishing for them than 
 cows' milk. They are very easily kept, as they are not fastidious, 
 but will eat almost anything. If, however, their milk is used 
 for infants, then their diet must be checked and their food well 
 looked after ; a little gram should be given to milch goats every 
 morning and evening, about lib., or less, at a time is sufficient ; 
 vegetable leaves, the outside cabbage leaves, tops of carrots, beet, 
 and so forth are also very good, and easily obtainable if you have 
 a garden. The animals must be tethered, and not allowed to run 
 loose, as they are fearfully destructive, and if they get into a 
 garden commit a great amount of damage. Where there are 
 kids, and the mother is used as a milch goat, they must not be 
 allowed to run with her all day, only at certain times, or if they 
 are, they must be muzzled. The goats coming from the banks 
 of the Jumna are excellent for milch purposes. They are rather a 
 long-legged breed, however, and not nearly so handsome as the 
 Surat goats, which are generally to be had in Bombay. These 
 are a compact, short-legged kind, and are excellent milchers, 
 giving, for a goat, a large quantity at a time.
 
 Live Stock. 137 
 
 Sheep are generally kept by regiments, and fed up "gram- 
 fed " that is ; but private individuals are not often found keeping 
 them, as in most stations there is what is called a "mutton 
 club," of which I have written elsewhere. The Bengali sheep, 
 when gram-fed, are capital eating. If the sheep are penned, the 
 pens must be kept very clean ; grain is usually given in the 
 morning and evening ; if they are driven out to feed they are fed 
 before starting and again on their return in the evening ; they 
 are never left out at night for fear of wild animals, or driven out 
 in the morning until the dew is off the ground, as it is very 
 injurious to sheep. A little salt should always be given to gram- 
 fed sheep ; the amount of gram allowed to each animal averages 
 usually about lib. per diem, but it is no use giving corn to any 
 sheep until they have eight teeth in front. I have tasted 
 wonderfully good mutton in India, gram-fed in this way, but we 
 never kept the animals ourselves, belonging to a club, and having 
 our mutton in turn with the other members. 
 
 Rabbits are kept in most compounds. Sometimes they give a 
 good deal of trouble by burrowing, and getting out into the 
 garden, where they commit sad havoc. Their hutches must be 
 roomy, dry, and airy, and they must be well sheltered from sun 
 and rain. The breeding hutches should be kept separate, and 
 all compartments should be swept out and thoroughly well 
 cleaned every day. The does should never be disturbed when 
 they have littered, otherwise they will frequently eat their young 
 ones, and they should be kept well supplied with fresh water. 
 The young should be taken away from the dam when five or six 
 weeks old, at which time it is usual to commence feeding them 
 up for table. They should be kept apart in feeding hutches, 
 and fed with great regularity. For food, give them cabbage and 
 lettuce leaves, sliced carrots, wild endive, lucerne, jawaree, and 
 bruised gram, just a little moistened. The bucks should have 
 separate hutches, for if kept together they fight. Many people 
 keep rabbits in a sort of artificial warren instead of in hutches. 
 At one time we pursued the following method with ours : A large 
 square hole was dug, about six or seven feet deep, and lined 
 with bricks. This was filled up with earth, rammed down quite 
 hard, and around it another wall was built, and covered in. In 
 this the rabbits were put, and left to burrow as they liked, an 
 opening being made leading into an enclosed yard, and a sliding 
 door fixed ; here their food was put. The rabbits can thus be 
 chosen for killing. To my mind, however, the hutch plan is tha
 
 138 Indian Outfits and Establishments. 
 
 best. The animals are more under view, and they create a 
 degree of interest ; moreover, a better check can be placed on 
 their numbers, and they do not become so dirty as when allowed 
 to burrow at will. 
 
 Teal and Quail are kept in pits underground, the former in 
 light pits, the latter in the dark, because they fight so much. 
 Two, three, or four pits, divided by sliding doors, are made, to 
 allow of cleaning, the birds being driven from one pit to another 
 while this operation goes on. Water is, of course, supplied, and 
 the birds are fatted up with small grain of various kinds. We 
 usually had about fifty teal and 200 quail, and kept up the 
 number, re-stocking as we killed off. These birds are quite 
 invaluable in the hot weather, when good meat cannot be pro- 
 cured. They soon put on flesh, and a good fat quail or teal, 
 from your own stock, carefully dressed, is a dish no epicure 
 would despise. Many people keep fowls. We did not, but they 
 are very easily reared in India, only they are little or no profit, 
 as the men who look after them steal the eggs and the corn, and 
 often sell the former to you, when, in fact, they have come from 
 your own hens. The rules for keeping poultry in England apply 
 also in India. Perfect cleanliness, good feeding, and daily 
 attention are equally necessary ; rice, jawaree, grain, ground 
 Indian corn made into a paste, house scraps, vegetables, fresh 
 liver, bones, &c., are used for food, which should be frequently 
 varied, as the fowls in that case eat with more appetite. Fat- 
 tening fowls are generally served with a mixture of ground 
 wheat, rice, jawaree, and bran, made into a paste moistened with 
 warm water, and it is given little and often during the day, any 
 food left after feeding being carefully removed. A little suet, 
 chopped very fine, and green food (cabbage and lettuce) chopped 
 small, should be given every now and again as a relish. Cram- 
 ming I do not agree with, either at home or abroad, though I 
 know it is often done. Milk for fattening fowls is a good drink 
 instead of water, allowing water sometimes also, and before 
 killing, congee water, made with rice, should be given instead of 
 water or milk. In all cases when water is used it should be first 
 boiled. 
 
 Turkeys, Geese, and Ducks are also reared with ease in India. 
 English treatment answers for all. They should be fed fully 
 three times daily, have plenty of fresh (boiled) water ; the food, 
 ground grain, jawaree, rice in husks, and for the geese and ducks, 
 coarse boosah mixed with the jawaree, and moistened with
 
 Live Stock. 139 
 
 buttermilk. Under this regimen they will do very well, pro- 
 vided they are always kept scrupulously clean. The turkeys, 
 when young, require very delicate feeding. 
 
 Peafowl are kept too. When young, they are fed as young 
 chickens ; and, when grown, on various sorts of grain, as are 
 fowls. 
 
 There is great interest in keeping all live stock in India. The 
 time so often hangs heavily, that it is quite a relief to have a 
 garden to walk in and give instructions about ; a warren, teal 
 and quail pits to visit, fowls to look after, and the larger 
 animals horses, cows, bullocks, and goats, to see to and arrange 
 for. They make so many objects for a stroll round the com- 
 pound in the mornings and evenings, and they prevent that 
 feeling of utter misery and disgust of everything which is apt to 
 creep at times over the most stout hearted and energetic 
 sojourner in a foreign land. 
 
 If there is really something to do, something to see after, the 
 average Englishman or woman is generally willing to be up and 
 about the work, whatever it may be. If there is literally 
 nothing to be done, simply a " folding of the hands to sleep," 
 then slowly, but surely, with inactivity and idleness, come illness 
 and disease. So, my friends, you who mean to visit India, or 
 rather who have to spend some portion of your lives there, 
 whether you like it or not, make up your minds not to give in 
 to the climate for an instant unless, of course, your health 
 unfortunately gives way. To keep your body in good health, 
 your mind must never be allowed to be idle, and you can 
 employ it in very many ways by taking an intelligent interest in 
 the country, in the natives, and in your own immediate sur- 
 roundings. Cultivate, as much as possible, an interest in all 
 around you, and you will find that interest a safety valve, a 
 preventive in many cases of downright illness, and in nearly 
 every case of that baneful feeling of ennui, from which, in India, 
 so many people suffer.
 
 ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 INDIAN OUTFIT. 
 
 No. 1 LIST. 
 
 12 
 
 G 
 12 
 G 
 
 Cambric Chemises, trimmed Work a 
 Cambric Chemises, trimmed Embroidery ' 
 Cambric Night Dresses, trimmed Embroidery 
 Fine Night Dresses, trimmed ... 
 
 s. 
 t 3 
 6 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 d. 
 G - 
 9 
 6 
 6 
 
 M 
 = 2 
 , 2 
 , 3 
 
 j ft 
 
 8. 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 5 
 
 d. 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 12 
 6 
 
 G 
 
 Pairs Cambric Drawers, tucked 
 Pairs Cambric Drawers, trimmed 
 Longcloth Petticoats, tacked 
 
 3 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 6 
 6 
 
 , 2 
 , 1 
 
 , 1 
 
 2 
 13 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 1 
 
 Longcloth Petticoats, trimmed 
 Longcloth Petticoat, trimmed 
 
 8 
 14 
 
 6 
 fi 
 
 , 1 
 
 j 
 
 5 
 
 14 
 
 6 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 Nainsook Muslin Camisoles 
 
 4 
 
 fi 
 
 , 1 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Fine Nainsook Camisoles 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 j 
 
 19 
 
 6 
 
 G 
 
 Gauze Merino Vests 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 , 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Flannel Petticoats 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 , 1 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 Print Morning Wrapper 
 
 15 
 
 fi 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 (5 
 
 1 
 
 White Brilliante Wrapper 
 
 ?,1 
 
 
 
 , 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 Flannel Robe de Chambre 
 
 fll 
 
 
 
 , 1 
 
 1 
 
 n 
 
 1 
 
 Fiye o'Clock Tea Gown 
 
 49! 
 
 
 
 J ft 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 j 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 12 
 
 White Brilliante Toilet Jacket 
 Pairs Lisle Thread Hose 
 
 10 
 
 ft 
 
 6 
 
 
 , o 
 
 , 1 
 
 10 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 
 6 
 
 Pairs Balbriggan Hose 
 
 a 
 
 3 
 
 j 
 
 13 
 
 G 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 j 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 12 
 1 
 
 Hemstitched Pocket Handkerchiefs 
 
 
 10 
 
 lOfc 
 fi 
 
 , o 
 
 , o 
 
 10 
 10 
 
 6 
 ft 
 
 2 
 
 
 Ifl 
 
 ft 
 
 , 1 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 Sets Linen Collars and Cuffs 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 fi 
 
 
 Haberdashery an assortment 
 
 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 .33 2 
 
 Outfit can be had for the Colonies or any part of the 
 world; and, if desired, any article can be had separately. The Night 
 Dresses, if -wished, can be had with short sleeves for warm climates. 
 
 CHEQUES CROSSED LONDON AND WESTMINSTER BANK ST. JAMES'S 
 SQUARE. 
 
 MRS. ADDLEY BOURNE, 
 
 LADIES' OUTFITTER, 
 
 COESET, AND BABY LINEN MANUFACTURER, 
 
 87, PICCADILLY G,. <%), LONDON.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Aden 32 
 
 Agra 41 
 
 Alexandria 31 
 
 Allahabad 38 
 
 Amusements on the voyage ... 29 
 
 Anglo-Indian furniture sales... 61 
 
 B. 
 
 Baggage, arrangement and dis- 
 posal of 3 
 
 Charges for excess 2 
 
 Insurance of 19 
 
 Passengers embarking at 
 Brindisi may have it 
 conveyed from South- 
 ampton 2 
 
 Weight allowed on board 1 
 Bombay, the town, places of 
 
 interest 34 
 
 Boots and shoes 14,22 
 
 Bungalows 55 
 
 External appearance of ... 55 
 
 Ground plan of 56 
 
 Internal arranemgent of . . . 57 
 
 Native landlords of ... 57 
 
 Precautions in hiring ... 57 
 
 Bent of 55 
 
 Water supply of 57 
 
 Butchers' meat 68 
 
 C. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Calls social 82 
 
 Cawnpore 39 
 
 Choice of food 68 
 
 Cholera, the 39 
 
 Confluence of the Jumna and 
 
 the Ganges ... 39 
 
 Cows for milch purposes ... 135 
 Treatment of ... ..135 
 
 D. 
 
 Dairy produce 7$ 
 
 Delhi boil, the 75 
 
 Diminution of salaries 66 
 
 Dinnerparties 85 
 
 Attendance for 87 
 
 Dishes for 88 
 
 Dishes, various 77 
 
 Resources of native cooks 
 
 for 85 
 
 Special menus for 85 
 
 Table decoration for ... 87 
 
 Duties, daily, in India 81 
 
 E. 
 
 Eating and drinking 70 
 
 English equivalents of Indian 
 
 currency 66
 
 142 
 
 Index. 
 
 F. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 PAGE 
 
 India Continued. 
 Fares to 2 
 
 Fare, variation of 70 
 Forage 132 
 
 Hot season in 84 
 Housekeeping in 65 
 
 Fruits and Conserves, Indian 114 
 Furnishing 59 
 
 Increase of luxury in ... 66 
 Live stock in 131 
 
 Carpets 60 
 
 Night travelling in 41 
 
 Catalogue of requirements 
 in 62 
 
 Occupation and health in 84 
 Boutes to 1 
 
 Furniture and fittings ... 61 
 General domestic appoint- 
 
 Servants in 45 
 Society in 81 
 Sport in 23 
 
 
 Voyage to 25 
 
 Matting in 59 
 Prices of articles of fur- 
 niture 62 
 
 Indian fruits and conserves ... 114 
 Gardening 96 
 Hotels and charges ... 40 
 
 Scinde rugs 60 
 White ants, their destruo- 
 tiveness, and the means 
 of prevention 59 
 
 Outfits for gentlemen ... 20 
 Outfits for ladies 8 
 Outfits for the married ... 15 
 Parcels post 6 
 Railway travelling 35 
 Scenery 35,43 
 
 
 Society 81 
 
 <Jarden,the 96 
 
 Sunset 41 
 
 Grass plots in 98 
 Hedging of g 
 Irrigation of 96 
 Manures for 99 
 Native deficiences as to... 99 
 Produce of 100 
 
 Tea and coffee 76 
 J. 
 
 Oeneralaugmentation of prices 65 
 
 H. 
 Hills, the 84 
 
 K. 
 
 Horses 133 
 
 Khedive's Palace, the 31 
 
 Ailments of 134 
 Cost of keeping 133 
 Hotels and charges 40 
 Hot season, the 84 
 Housekeeping 65 
 
 Kitchen expenses 68 
 L. 
 
 Cost of 65 
 
 
 I. 
 
 India, means of getting there 1 
 Daily duties in , 81 
 
 Lines of steamers to India the 
 P. and O., the Bombay 
 Anchor, the Clan, the 
 Hall line, Calcutta Star, 
 Bubatino 2 
 Live stock, management of ... 131 
 Luxury, increase of 66
 
 Index. 
 
 M. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Malta 30 
 
 Marblfr Rocks, the... 38 
 
 Marketing 68 
 
 Memorable well at Cawnpore ... 39 
 
 Menus 71 
 
 Miscellaneous stores ... ... 18 
 
 Mooltan ... 43 
 
 Morning meal, the Indian ... 73 
 
 Mutton clubs 68 
 
 N. 
 
 Native cooking 68 
 
 Occupation and health 84 
 
 Off the port of bombay 38 
 
 Outfit for gentlemen 20 
 
 Boots and shoes in 22 
 
 Clothing in 20 
 
 Dress and morning suits 
 
 in 22 
 
 General remarks on ... 20 
 
 Packing of 23 
 
 Plate in 24 
 
 Saddlery in 23 
 
 Shooting and fishing 
 
 equipment in 23 
 
 Stationery in 23 
 
 Toilet requisites in 23 
 
 Underclothing 21 
 
 Outfit for ladies 28 
 
 Boots and shoes in 14 
 
 Cost of 10 
 
 Dresses in 10 
 
 Hats and bonnets in ... 12 
 List of, commonly given, 
 
 too extravagant 8 
 
 Miscellaneous requisites 
 
 of 12 
 
 Personal linen in 8 
 
 Requirements of 9 
 
 Unmade materials in ... 11 
 
 Outfit for the married 15 
 
 Bed linen in 16 
 
 Outfit for the married continued. 
 
 Coverings in 16 
 
 General household requi- 
 sites 17 
 
 House linen in 15 
 
 Linen sheeting not in- 
 cluded in 16 
 
 Materials for making up 
 
 in 18 
 
 Miscellaneous stores in ... 18 
 
 Table linen in... 17 
 
 P. 
 
 Packing 3 
 
 Of regimental baggage ... 5 
 
 Places en route 30 
 
 Port Said 32 
 
 E. 
 
 Eailway travelling 35 
 
 Provisions for the journey 36 
 
 Bed Sea, a trying portion of 
 
 the voyage 1 
 
 Refreshments, in 35 
 
 Scenery by the way... 35, 43 
 
 Requisites on board ship 3 
 
 Routes to India overland 
 by the P. and O. 
 steamers via South- 
 ampton via Brindisi... 1 
 
 S. 
 
 Saddlery and harness 132 
 
 Servants 45 
 
 Characteristics of Indian 42 
 
 Complaints respecting ... 46 
 
 How to treat 52 
 
 Necessary precautions in 
 
 engaging 45 
 
 Remarks on 51 
 
 Selection of 45 
 
 Variety of, and their 
 
 respective duties ... 50 
 
 Wages of , 49
 
 144 
 
 Index. 
 
 Society 81 
 
 Agreeableness of Indian 83 
 Customs and observances 
 
 of 81 
 
 Stabling 132 
 
 Stimulants warning against ... 74 
 
 T. 
 
 Tea and coffee, Indian 76 
 
 Tiffin 81 
 
 U. 
 Unaltered water, danger from 75 
 
 V. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Visits 82 
 
 Voyage out ... 25 
 
 Amusements on 29 
 
 Places en route 30 
 
 Bequisites on board ship 
 
 on 26 
 
 Sea-siokness on 28 
 
 Season for sailing 25 
 
 Ship regulations on 28 
 
 W. 
 
 Weights and measures 
 Wines and other drinks 
 
 74
 
 ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 HEATH'S SUCCESSFUL TASTELESS REMEDY 
 
 I '- FOB THE 
 
 PREVENTION AND CURE 
 
 OP 
 
 SEA SICKNESS. 
 
 This Preparation is perfectly harmless; does not produce headache 
 or other discomfort. 
 
 Sold in bottles bearing the Government Stamp, with directions. Price Is. 6d., 
 2s. 9d., and 4s. 6d. Poet free, 3d. extra. 
 
 LETTER FEOM GENERAL SIR EDWARD WARDE, K.C.B. 
 
 October 14th, 1878. 
 
 SIB, You will be glad to hear that one of my sons, who crossed over to 
 Dublin in the gale last week, found your powder, as he says, " a brilliant 
 success." He gave some to a friend of his, who was, like himself, a bad 
 sailor, and the success was undoubted in both cases. You can make what 
 use you like of this. Yours faithfully, E. C. WARDE. 
 
 LETTER FROM CAPT. J. G. MORDUE, BABQTTE "ELIZABETH GRAHAM." 
 
 OTAGO, NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 DEAB SIB, Kindly hand the enclosed Testimonial to Mr. HEATH, with 
 my best thanks for the bottle of Sea Sickness Remedy that he presented me 
 with before leaving London. It is truly a perfect remedy for Sea Sickness, 
 and, on future voyages with passengers, I shall never be without it. When I 
 received it from Mr. HEATH I certainly had very little faith in it, as I had 
 never yet met with a cure for that much-dreaded and, in many instances, fatal 
 malady on sea voyages during my experience of forty years of sea life ; but it 
 assuredly is a perfect remedy, and no mistake. 
 
 I am, dear Sir, yours faithfully, 
 
 J. GBEENWAT, Esq., SHAW, SAVILL & Co. J. G. MORDUE. 
 
 LETTER FROM LIEUTENANT C. WARDE. 
 
 September 24th, 1879. 
 
 SIB, As I have benefited so very much by your medicine for Sea Sickness, I 
 think it only right to let you know my experience of it. I have travelled upwards 
 of twenty-five thousand miles by sea, and never been free from the effects of Sea 
 Sickness until I tried your Medicine, which I have done on several occasions of 
 short journeys, with the most satisfactory results. As a rule, the slightest 
 motion affects me, but whenever, on each occasion of my using your Medicine, 
 other people suffered, I experienced a total immunity from any uncomfortable 
 sensation, and, consequently, from my experience of it, I am inclined to think 
 that it is quite infallible. Faithfully yours, 
 
 C. WARDE, Lieut. 19th Hussars. 
 
 HEATH'S remedy for Sea Sickness has also been used with great success in 
 other forms of sickness. 
 
 PREPARED ONLY BY 
 
 ALFRED HEATH & Co., 
 
 MANUFACTURING AND EXPORT HOMCEOPATHIC CHEMISTS, 
 
 Growers of Medicinal Plants in thtir wild state. 
 
 114, EBURY STREET, LONDON, S.W.
 
 ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 ALL NECESSARY ARTICLES 
 
 FOE 
 
 OUTFITS <&, ESTABLISHMENTS 
 
 GUNS, SADDLERY, CUTLERY, 
 
 ETC., 
 
 CAN BE READILY PROCURED, on the most favourable 
 terms, THROUGH THE MEDIUM OF 
 
 lf rljangp % Jffierf, 
 
 AND JOTJENAL OF THE HOUSEHOLD. 
 PUBLISHED EVERY MONDAY, WEDNESDAY & FB.IDAY. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED. PRICE TWOPENCE. 
 
 CLASSIFIED ADVERTISEMENTS of Thousands of Articles of every description for 
 Exchange, or Sale, or Wanted, by private persons. Through this department all kinds 
 of property may be procured or disposed of without publicity, with marvellous .cheapness, 
 and PERFECT SECURITY FROM DISHONEST PERSONS. Full particulars are 
 given in each issue. Advertisements inserted at the rate of Id. for three words. 
 
 "Like all grand conceptions the process is remarkable for its simplicity." The Globe. 
 
 THE LITERARY PORTION consists of Art, Dramatic, Scientific, and Musical News of 
 the Week; Articles and Notes upon Canaries and Foreign and British Ca?e Birds; 
 Places at Home and Abroad ; Provincial and Copper Coins and Tokens ; Noteworthy 
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 Branches of Amateur Mechanics; Household Matters ; Recipes of all kinds; Present 
 Fashions, with original illustrations : New Materials ; Fancy Work of different kinds ; 
 Cultivation of Flower?, Fruit, and Vegetables ; Garden Operations ; Dogs ; Rabbits ; 
 Horses ; Goats ; Farming ; Poultry ; Pigeons ; Sports, &c. 
 
 Answers to Correspondents on all subjects. 
 
 Specimen Copy Two Penny Stamps. 
 
 TERMS or SUBSCRIPTION. Quarterly. Half-yearly. Yearly. 
 
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 These prices include postage from the Head Office to the subscriber. 
 
 LONDON: "THE BAZAAE" OFFICE, 170, STEAND, W.C.
 
 ATALOGUE 
 
 OF 
 
 New and Practical 
 BOOKS. 
 
 LONDON: 
 L. UPCOTT GILL, 170, STRAND.
 
 WHY DOES HAIR 
 FALL OFF? 
 
 From many causes. Sometimes 
 from local disturbing agencies, 
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 neglect in cleansing; but more 
 frequently from decay in the sapa 
 and tissues which supply each 
 individual hair. In such case, 
 
 OLDRIDGE'S 
 
 BALM OF COLUMBIA 
 
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 ruin nature' s chief ornament. 
 
 It stimulates, strengthens, and increases the growth of Hair ; softens 
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 Hair retaining its colour. 
 
 The Hair of the Head and the Whiskers and 
 Moustachios 
 
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 obviates the use of dyes and poisonous restoratives. 
 
 ESTABLISHED UPWARDS OF SIXTY YEARS. 
 
 (A sufficient guarantee of its efficacy). 
 
 Sold by all Perfumers and Chemists at 3s. 6d., 6s., and 113. Otly. 
 Wholesale and Retail by the Proprietors, 
 
 C. & A. OLDRIDGE, 
 
 22, WELLINGTON ST., STRAND, LONDON, W.C. 
 
 BALM OF 1 COLUMBIA.. 
 
 ESTABLISHED UPWARDS OF SIXTY TEAKS,
 
 Catalogue 
 
 of 
 
 Practical Handbooks. 
 
 ANIMALS, BIRDS, 
 
 BREAKING AND TRAINING DOGS: 
 
 Being Concise Directions for the proper Education, both for the Field and as Com* 
 panions, of Retrievers, Pointers, Setters, Spaniels, Terriers, &c. By " PATHFINDER." 
 In cloth Kilt, 5s., by post, 5s. id. 
 
 DISEASES OF DOGS: 
 
 Their Pathology. Diagnosis, and Treatment ; to which is added a complete 
 Dictionary of Canine Materia Medica; Modes of Administering Medicines; 
 Treatment in cases of Poisoning, and the Value of Disinfectants. For the Use 
 of Amateurs. By HUGH DALZIEI, (Author of "British Dogs," Ac.). NEW, 
 REVISED, AND GREATLY ENLARGED EDITION. 
 
 In paper, price IB., by post Is. Id. ; in cloth gilt is., by post is. 2d. 
 
 BRITISH DOGS: 
 
 Their Varieties, History, Characteristics, Breeding, Management, and Exhibi- 
 tion. Illustrated with 52 Portraits of the Chief Dogs of the Day. By HUGH 
 DALZIEL (" Corsincon," Author of "The Diseases of Dogs," "The Diseases of 
 Horses," &c.), assisted by Eminent Fanciers. [May also be had in Divisions, aa 
 under] : 
 
 Bevelled boards, extra gilt, gilt edges, price 10s., by post, 10s. 6d. 
 
 DOGS USED IN" FIELD SPORTS: 
 
 Their History, Varieties, Characteristics, *c. With nineteen full page Portraits 
 of celebrated Dogs of the Day. (Forming Division I. of " Erititk Dog") 
 In paper, price 3s., by post, 3s. 3d. 
 
 DOGS USEFUL TO MAN: 
 
 In other Work than Field Sports. Their History, Varieties, Characteristics, *c. 
 With twenty-four full page Portraits of Leading Dogs of the Day. (Forming 
 Division II. of " British Dog*.") 
 
 In paper, price 3s., by post, SB. 3d. 
 
 HOUSE AND TOY DOGS: 
 
 Their History, Varieties, Characteristics, &c. Also the General Management of 
 Dogs, and Breeding and Rearing. Illustrated with nine Portraits of Celebrated 
 DogH of the Day. (Forming Divuion III. of " British Dog*") 
 In paper, price 2s., by post, 2s. 2d. 
 
 OF ENGLISHE DOGGES: 
 
 The Diversities, the names, the natures, and the properties. Date 1576. Re- 
 printed verbatim. [Note. This is the earliest book in the English language on 
 the subject, and should be in the hands of all who take an interest in Dogs.] 
 In boards, price 2s. 6d., by post, 2s. 8d. 
 
 DISEASES OF HOHSES : 
 
 Their Patholoiry, Diagnosis, and Treatment; to which is added a complete 
 Dictionary of Equine Materia Medica. For the Use of Amateurs. By HUGH 
 DALZIEL. In paper, price Is. 6d., by post. Is. 8d. 
 
 PEACTICAL DAIRY FARMING: 
 
 A short Treatise on the Profitable Management of a Dairy Farm. Illustrated. 
 By G. SEAWARD WITCOMBE. 
 
 In paper, price Is. 6d., by post. Is. 7d. 
 
 BOOK OF THE GOAT: 
 
 Containing Practical Directions for the Management of the Milch Goat la Health 
 and Disease. Illustrated. By H. STEPHEN- HOLMES PEGLER. 
 Cheap edition in paper, price Is., by post. Is. Id. 
 
 PIG KEEPING FOR AMATEURS: 
 
 A Practical Guide to the Profit able Management of Pigs. By G. GILBERT ("Qurth"> 
 In paper, price is., by post, Is. Id.
 
 2 Practical Handbooks, Published at I/O, Strand, W.C. 
 
 STOCK KEEPING FOR AMATEURS: 
 
 A Manual on the Varieties, Breeding, and Management of Pi?s, Sheep, Horses, 
 Cows, Oxen, Asses, Mules, and Goats, and the Treatment of their Diseases. 
 Designed for the use of Young Farmers and Amateurs. By W. H. ABLETT (Author 
 of " Farming for Pleasure and Profit," " Arboriculture for Amateurs ") 
 In cloth gilt, price 5s., by post, 5s. 4d. 
 
 RABBITS FOR PRIZES AND PROFIT: 
 
 Containing Full Directions for the proper Management of Fancy Babbits in 
 Health and Disease, for Pets or the Market; and Descriptions of every known 
 Variety, with Instructions for Breeding good specimens. Illustrated. By the late 
 CHARLES BAYSON. Bevised by the Editor of * The Book of the Babbit," [May 
 also be had in two Parts, as under] : 
 
 In cloth gilt, price 2s. Gd., by post, 2s. 9d. 
 
 GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF RABBITS: 
 
 Including Hutches, Breeding, Feeding, Diseases and their Treatment, Babbit 
 Coverts, &c. Fully illustrated. (Forming Part I. of " Rabbitt for Prizes and 
 Profit.") In paper, price Is., by post, Is. Id. 
 
 EXHIBITION RABBITS: 
 
 Being Descriptions of all Varieties of Fancy Babbits, their Points of Excellence, 
 and how to obtain them. Illustrated. (Forming Part II. of "Habbiti for Prize* 
 and Profit.") In paper, price is., by post, Is. id. 
 
 BOOK OF THE RABBIT: 
 
 A complete work on Breeding and Bearing all varieties of Fancy Babbits, giving 
 their History, Variations, Uses, Points, Selection, Mating, Management, and 
 every other information. Illustrated with facsimiles of water-colour drawings 
 specially prepared for this work, and numerous wood engravings. By Various 
 Breeders and Exhibitors. Bevised by the Editor of " Babbits for Prizes and 
 Profit." [May also be had in Is. parts.] 
 
 In extra cloth gilt, bevelled boards, gilt edges, price 12s. 6d. by post, ISs. 
 
 FERRETS AND FERRETING: 
 
 Containing Instructions for the Breeding, Management, and Working of Ferret*. 
 
 In paper, price 6d., by post, 7d. 
 FANCY MICE: 
 
 Their Varieties, Management, and Breeding. Illustrated. 
 
 In paper, price Gd., by post, Gid. 
 FOREIGN CAGE BIRDS: 
 
 Containing Full Directions for Successfully Breeding, Bearing, and Managing the 
 various Beautiful Cage Birds imported into this country. Beautifully Illustrated. 
 By C. W. GEDNET. 
 
 In cloth gilt, in two vols., price 8s. 6d.. by post, 9s. ; in extra cloth gilt, gilt edges, 
 in one vol., price 9s. 6d., by post, 9s. lOd. 
 
 PARRAKEETS, PARROTS, COCKATOOS, LORIES, AND 
 
 Macaws : 
 
 Their Varieties, Breeding and Management. (Forming Vol. I. of "Foreign Cage 
 Birds.") In cloth gilt, price 8s. 6d., by post, 3s. 9d. 
 
 WAXBILLS, FINCHES, WEAVERS, ORIOLES, AND 
 Other Small Foreign Aviary Birds : 
 
 Their Varieties, Breeding, and Management. Beautifully illustrated. (Forming 
 Vol. II. of "Foreign Cage Birds.") 
 
 In cloth gilt, price 5s., by post, 5s. 4d. 
 
 CANART BOOK: 
 
 Containing Full Directions for the Breeding, Bearing, and Management of 
 Canaries and Canary Mules ; Formation of Canary Societies ; Exhibition Canaries, 
 their points and breedine; and all other matters connected with this fancy. Illus- 
 trated. By BOBERT L. WALLACE. [May also be had in two Parts, as follows] ; 
 In cloth gilt, price 5s., by post 5s. 4d. ; in extra cloth gilt, gilt edges, price 6s., 
 by post, 6s. 4d. 
 
 GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF CANARIES: 
 
 Including Cages and Cage Making, Breeding, Managing, Mule Breeding, Diseases 
 and their Treatment. Moulting, Bats and Mice, &c. Illustrated. (Forming Part I. 
 of the " Canary Book") 
 
 In paper, price 2s., by post, 2s. 2d. 
 
 EXHIBITION CANARIES: 
 
 Containing Full Particulars of all the different Varieties, their Points of Excellence, 
 Preparing Birds for Exhibition, Formation and Management of Canary Societies 
 and Exhibitions. Illustrated. (Forming Part II. of the " Canary Book") 
 
 In paper, price 2s., by post, 2s. 2d. 
 FANCY" PIGEONS: 
 
 Containing Full Directions for the Breeding and Management of Fancy Piroons, 
 and Descriptions of every known variety, together with all other information of 
 interest or use to Pigeon Fanciers. Handsomely illustrated. By J. C. LYBLL. 
 In extra cloth gilt, price 7s. (id., by post, 8s. 
 
 POULTRY FOR PRIZES AND PROFIT: 
 
 Contains Breeding Poultry for Prizes, Exhibition Poultry, and Management of 
 the Poultry Yard. Handsomely Illustrated. By JAMES LONG. 
 In cloth gilt, price 2s. Gd., by post, 2s. 9d.
 
 Practical Handbooks. Art and Virtu. 3 
 
 BREEDING POULTRY FOR PRIZES: 
 
 Containing full instructions for Dilating Poultry to obtain the best results in each 
 breed. Illustrated. (Forming Part I. of "Poultry for Prizes and Profit."} 
 In paper, price 6d., by post, 6Jd. 
 
 EXHIBITION POULTRY: 
 
 Their Varieties, Characteristics, and Points of Excellence. Illustrated, (forming 
 Part II. of "Poultry for Prizei and Front.") 
 
 In paper, price Is., by post. Is. Id. 
 
 MANAGEMENT OF THE POULTRY YARD: 
 
 Including Hatching of Eggs, Rearing and Feeding, Houses and Bans, General 
 Management, Diseases and their Treatment, Fattening, Poultry Farming. &c. 
 Illustrated. (Forming Part III. of "Poultry for Prizes and Profit") 
 In paper, price Is., by post, Is. Id. 
 
 SUCCESSFUL CHICKEN REARING, A GUIDE TO. 
 
 Price, in paper, Od., by post Gid. 
 
 DUCKS AND GEESE: 
 
 Their Characteristics, Points, and Management. By VARIOUS BREEDERS. 
 Splendidly illustrated. 
 
 In paper, price Is. Gd., by post. Is. "d. 
 
 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING: 
 
 Being Plain Instructions to the Amateur for the Successful Management of the 
 Honey Bee. Illustrated. Re-written and Enlarged. By FRANK CHESHIRE. 
 In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d., by post, 2s. 9d. 
 
 BEE-KEEPING FOR AMATEURS: 
 
 Being a Short Treatise on Apiculture on Humane and Successful Principles. By 
 THOMAS ADDEY (the Lincolnshire Apiarian). 
 
 In paper, price 6d., by post, 6id. 
 
 KENNEL CHRONICLE AND PEDIGREE REGISTER: 
 
 For Recording all matters which are of permanent value and interest to Owners^ 
 Breeders, and Exhibitors of Dogs. Published annually. Two vols. now ready. 
 In cloth gilt, price 2s. Gd., by post, 2*. 9d. 
 
 With Blank Forms for Registering Kennel Matters, price 5s., by post, 5s. 4d. 
 
 ART AND VIRTU. 
 
 CHINA PAINTING: 
 
 Its Principles and Practice. By WALTER HARVET. Illustrated. 
 In paper, price Is., by post, Is. Id. 
 
 ARTISTIC AMUSEMENTS: 
 
 Being Instructions for a variety of Art Work for Home Employment, and Sugges- 
 tions for a number of Novel and Saleable Articles for Fancy Bazaars. Illustrated. 
 Contents are given in Series I. and II. following. 
 
 In cloth gilt, price 2s. Gd., by post, 2s. 8d. 
 
 SERIES ^1. OF "ARTISTIC AMUSEMENTS": 
 
 Colouring Photographs, Imitation Stained Glass, Decalcomanie, Queen Shell Work. 
 Painting on China, Japanese Lacquer Work, Stencilling. 
 In paper, price Is., by post. Is. Id. 
 
 SERIES II. OF "ARTISTIC AMUSEMENTS": 
 
 Painting Magic Lantern Slides, Menu and Guest Cards, Spatter Work, Picture 
 and Scrap Screens, Frosted Silver Work, Picture Cleaning and Restoring, Illumi- 
 nating and Symbolical Colouring. 
 
 In paper, price Is., by post, Is. Id. 
 
 ENGLISH POTTERY AND PORCELAIN: 
 
 A MfrTi"Rl for Collectors. Being a Concise Account of the Development of the 
 Potter's Art in England. Profusely Illustrated with Marks, Monograms, and 
 Engravings of characteristic Specimens. New Edition. [May also be had in Parts 
 as under 1 : In cloth gilt, price 3s. 6d., by post. 3s. 8d. 
 
 ENGLISH POTTERY: 
 
 Giving the History of the most famous and valued descriptions of English Pottery, 
 with illustrations of specimens, marks, and monograms, &c. (Forming Part I. of 
 " Enijlith Pottery and Porcelain.") 
 
 In paper, price Is. Gd., by post, Is. 7d. 
 
 ENGLISH PORCELAIN: 
 
 Giving the History of the most famous and valued descriptions of English Porcelain . 
 with illustrations of specimens, marks, and monograms, Ac. (Forming fart II. of 
 "Englitk Pottery and Porcelain.") 
 
 In paper, price Is. 6d., by poet, Is. 7d.
 
 4 Practical Handbooks, Published at 170, Strand, W.C. 
 
 ENGLISH, SCOTCH, AND IRISH COINS: 
 
 A Manual for Collectors; being a History and Description of the Coinage of 
 Great Britain, from the Earliest Ages to the Present Time. Profusely Illus- 
 trated. In cloth frilt, price 4s., by post, 4s. 4d. . 
 
 VALUATION OF BRITISH COINS, A Guide to the : 
 
 Giving the Value of the various Coins, from the prices realised at the chief sales 
 of the past 20 years. Arranged in chronological order. Of immense value to 
 collectors and dealers. [In the press. 
 
 GARDENING GUIDES. 
 
 THE CHRYSANTHEMUM: 
 
 Its History, Varieties, Cultivation, and Diseases. By D. T. FISH. 
 In paper, price 6d., by post 7d. 
 
 GARDEN PESTS AND THEIR ERADICATION: 
 
 Containing Practical Instructions for the Amateur to Overcome the Enemies of 
 the Garden. With numerous Illustrations of the perfect Insects and their Larva 1 , 
 which are particularly harmful to Garden Plants. 
 
 In paper, price Is., by post, Is. Id. 
 
 THE HARDY FRUIT BOOK: 
 
 Consisting of a Series of Exhaustive Treatises on various Hardy Fruits grown in 
 this country ; giving the History, the most desirable sorts, i.he besc Methods of 
 Cultivation, the Prevention or Cure of the Diseases incidental to each. Fully 
 Illustrated, By D. T. FISH. [May be had in Parts as follows] : 
 la cloth, price 10s. 6d., by post 11s. 
 
 THE APPLE: 
 
 In paper, price Is., by post. Is. Id. 
 
 THE PEAR : 
 
 In paper, price Is. 6d., by post, Is. 7d. 
 
 THE PEACH AND NECTARINE: 
 In paper, price Is. 6d., by post, Is. 7d. 
 
 THE APRICOT: 
 
 In paper, price Is., by post Is. Id. 
 
 THE PLUM : 
 
 In paper, price Is., by post, Is. Id. 
 
 THE CHERRY AND MEDLAR: 
 In paper, price Is., by post Is. Id; 
 
 THE FIG, MULBERRY, AND QUINCE: 
 In paper, price Is., by post Is. Id. 
 
 THE WALNUT, CHESTNUT, AND FILBERT: 
 In paper, price Is., by post. Is. Id. 
 
 THE GOOSEBERRY AND CURRANT: 
 In paper, price Is., by post Is. id. 
 
 THE RASPBERRY AND STRAWBERRY: 
 In paper, price is., by post is. Id. 
 
 ORCHIDS FOR AMATEURS: 
 
 Containing Descriptions of Orchids suited to the requirements of the Amateur, with 
 lull Instructions for their successful Cultivation. With numerous beautiful Illustra- 
 tions. By JAMEB BRITTEN, F.L.S. (of the British Museum), andW.H.GowEB, 
 In cloth gilt, price 7s. 6d., by post, 7s. lOd. 
 
 ROSE GROWING FOR AMATEURS: 
 
 Being Practical Instructions for the successful Culture of Roses, with selections 
 of the best varieties adapted to the lequirements of the Amateur in Town or 
 Country. By W. D. PRIOR. 
 
 In paper, price Is. 6d., by post, Is. 3d. 
 
 BULBS AND BULB CULTURE (Vols. I. and II.): 
 
 Being Descriptions, both historical and botanical, of the principal Bulbs and 
 Bulbous Plants grown in this country, and their chief Vaiieties ; with full and. 
 practical instructions for their successful Cultivation, both in and out of doors. 
 Illustrated. By D. T. FISH. Vol. I. includes Parts I. and IJ... and Vol. II. Part* 
 III. and IV., as named below. 
 
 In clotn gilt, price 2s. 6d., by post, 2s. 9d.
 
 Practical Handbooks. Guides to Gardening. 5 
 
 THE SNOWDROP, BULBOCODIUM, STEBNBEEGIA, 
 Crocus, Colchlcum, Tulip, and Hyacinth: 
 
 The best sorts, and their cultivation, indoors, unner glass, and in the open border. 
 Illustrated. (Forming Part I. of "Sulbe and Bulb Culture") 
 In paper, price Is., by post, Is. Id. 
 
 THE ANEMONE, THE NARCISSUS, THE LILY: 
 
 The best ports, and their cultivation, indoors, under glass, and in the open border. 
 Illustrated. (Forming Part II. of " Bulbt and Bulb Culture") 
 In paper, price Is., by post, Is. 2d. 
 
 THE GLADIOLUS, LACHENALIA, CYCLAMEN, RANUN- 
 
 culus, and Scilla or Squill (Star Hyacinth) : 
 
 The best sorts, and their cultivation, indoors, unaer glass, and in the open border. 
 Illustrated. (Forming Part III. of " Bulbs and Bulb Culture"') 
 In paper, price Is., by post, U. lid. 
 
 IXIAS, SPARAXIS, TRITONIA.S, AND BABIANAS ; IRIS, 
 
 Tiger Iris; Schizostylis Coccinea ; and the Dahlia. 
 The best sorts, and their cultivation, indoors, under glass, and in the open 
 border. Illustrated. (Forming Part IV. of "Bulb Culture.") 
 In paper, price Is., by post, IB. Id. 
 
 VINE CULTURE FOR AMATEURS: 
 
 Being Plain Directions for the successful growing of Grapes, with the means and 
 appliances usually at the command of amateurs. Illustrated. By W. J. MAT. 
 In paper, price IB., by post, Is. id. 
 
 PRUNING, GRAFTING, AND BUDDING FRUIT TREES: 
 Illustrated with ninety-three Diagrams. By D. T. FISH. 
 In paper, price Is., by post, Is. id. 
 
 VILLA GARDENING: 
 
 Being plain instructions for the Proper Laying-out, Planting, and Management 
 of Small Gardens; with lists of Trees. Shrubs, and Plants most suitable, and 
 thirteen Designs for small gardens. By W. J. MAY. 
 
 Cheap edition, in paper, price Is., by post, Is. Id. 
 
 ROSE BUDDING: 
 
 Containing full Instructions for the successful performance of this interesting 
 operation. Illustrated. By D. T. FISH. 
 
 In paper, price 6d., by post, 7<L 
 
 GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT FOR AMATEURS: 
 
 Descriptions of the best Greenhouses and Frames, with Instructions for Building 
 them; Particulars of the various Methods of Heating; lists of the most suitable 
 plants, with general and special cultural directions ; ana all necessary information 
 lor the Guidance of the Amateur. Illustrated. By W. J. MAY (Author of " Vine 
 Culture for Amateurs," " Cucumber Culture for Amateurs," &c.). 
 In cloth gilt, price 3s. 6d., by post, 8s. 9d. In extra gilt, gilt edges, price 4s., by post, 4a. 3d. 
 
 ARBORICULTURE FOR AMATEURS: 
 
 Being Instructions for the Planting and Cultivation of Trees for Ornament 
 or Use, and selections and descriptions of those suited to special requirements as to 
 Boil, Situation, &c. By WILLIAM H. ABLETT (Author of " English Trees and 
 Tree Planting," &c.). 
 
 In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d., by post, 2s. 8d. 
 
 CUCUMBER CULTURE FOR AMATEURS: 
 
 Including also Melons, Vegetable Marrows, and Gourds. Illustrated. By W.J.MAT. 
 In paper, price Is., by post. Is. Id. 
 
 VEGETABLE CULTURE FOR AMATEURS: 
 
 Concise Directions for the Cultivation of Vegetables, so as to insure good crops, in 
 Email Gardens, witn lists of the best varieties of each sort. By W. J. MAY. 
 In paper, price Is,, by post Is. Id. 
 
 GUIDES TO PLACES. 
 
 THE UPPER THAMES: 
 
 From Richmond to Oxford : A Guide for Boating Men, Anglers, Pie-nic Parties, 
 and all Pleasure Seekers on the River. Arranged on an entirely new plan. Illus- 
 trated with Specially Prepared Engravings of some of the most Beautiful Scenery 
 and Striking Objects met with on the Thames. 
 
 In paper, price Is., in cloth, with elastic band and pocket, 2s., postage 2d. 
 
 "WINTER HAVENS IN THE SUNNY SOUTH: 
 
 A complete Handbook to the Riviera, with a notice of the new station, Alassio. 
 Splendidly Illustrated. By ROSA BAUGHAN (AntLor of " Indications of Character 
 in Handwriting," " The Northern Watering Places of France"). 
 In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d., by post, 2s. 8d.
 
 6 Practical Handbooks, Published at 170, Strand, W.C. 
 
 THE DICTIONARY OP "WATERING PLACES, Seaside 
 
 and Inland, at Home and Abroad : 
 
 Contains Routes, Climate, and Season, Waters, Recommended for. Scenery, Objects- 
 of Interest, Amusements, Churches, Doctors, Hydropathic Establishments, Hotels, 
 House Agents, Newspapers, &c., with MAP OF BRITISH WATERING PLACES, Seaside 
 and Inland, and the Routes thereto. In cloth, price 4s., by post, 4s. 3d., with 
 coloured Map, 3d. extra. 
 
 May also be had in Parts, as follows, price 2s. each, 
 
 Part I., BRITISH WATERING PLACES, both Inland and Seaside, in 
 England, Ireland, Scotland, Wales, and the Islands. 
 
 Part II., FOREIGN WATERING PLACES, Seaside and Inland, including 
 the Spas, the Swiss Lakes, and the Continental Centres. 
 
 SEASIDE WATERING PLACES: 
 
 Being a Guide to Persona in Search of a Suitable Place in which to Spend their 
 Holidays, on the English and Welsh Coasts. New and Revised Edition, with 
 Descriptions of over 140 Places. 
 
 Sin paper, price 2s., by post, 2s. Sd. ; with coloured Map, 6d. extra. 
 
 MAP OP THE SEASIDE AND INLAND WATERING 
 Places of the British Isles : 
 
 Showing the railway and steamboat communications, the central points, and 
 various places of interest to tourists, in addition to all the Watering Places men- 
 tioned in the British Section of the "Dictionary of Watering Places" and in 
 " Seaside Watering .Place*." Size of plate 15in. by 14Jin. Coloured, price 6d., by 
 post 7d. ; plain, price 3d,, by post 4d. 
 
 NORTHERN WATERING PLACES OP FRANCE: 
 
 A Guide for English People to the Holiday Resorts on the Coasts of the French 
 Netherlands, Picardy, Normandy, and Brittany. By ROSA BAUGHAN (Author of 
 " Winter Havens in the Bunny South," &c.). 
 
 In paper, price 2s., by post 2s. 2d. 
 
 HOUSEHOLD MANUALS. 
 
 COOKERY POR AMATEURS, or French Dishes for English 
 Homes of all Classes. 
 
 Includes Simple Cookery, Middle-class Cookery, Superior Cookery, Cookery for 
 Invalids, and Breakfast and Luncheon Cookery. By MADAME VALERIE. 
 
 [In the Press. 
 INDIAN OUTFITS AND ESTABLISHMENTS: 
 
 A Guide to Persons Igoing to India, detailing what should be taken out and how, 
 and the household arrangements necessary out there. By an ANGLO-INDIAN. 
 In cloth, price 2s. 8d., by post, !Js. 8d. 
 
 SICE NURSING AT HOME: 
 
 Being Plain Directions and Hints for the Proper Nursing of Sick Persons, and 
 the Home Treatment of Diseases and Accidents in case of sudden emergencies. 
 By 8. F. A. CAULFEILD. 
 
 In paper, price Is., by post Is. Id. In cloth, price Is. Cd., by post Is. 8d. 
 
 TOILET MEDICINE: 
 
 A Scientific Manual on the Correction of Bodily Defects, and the Improvement 
 and Preservation of Personal Appearance ; together with Formula for all the 
 Special Preparations Recommended. By KDWIN WOOTON, B.Sc (Paris), 
 In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d., by post 2s. 9d. 
 
 HINTS TO UNTRAINED TEACHERS: 
 
 Being Directions and Suggestions for the Assistance of Parents and others engaged 
 in Home Education. By JANE ASCHAM. 
 
 In paper, price 6d., by post 7d. 
 
 ARTISTIC FLOWER DECORATIONS: 
 
 For Ball Rooms, Halls, Passages, Dinner and Supper Tables ; with Dirctions for 
 making Bouquets, Buttonholes, Hair Sprays, &c. Illustrated. By B. C. SAWABD. 
 In paper, price 2s., by post, 2s. 2d. 
 
 LADIES' WORK. 
 
 DICTIONARY OF NEEDLEWORK: 
 
 An Encyclopaedia of Plain and Fancy Needlework; the History of the various 
 Work ; details of the Stitches employed ; the method of working the materials 
 used ; the meaning of Technical Terms ; and other information bearing on the 
 subject. Plain, practical, complete, and magnificently Illustrated. By .8. F. A. 
 CAU r.KKiLi) and B. C. BAWARD, assisted by various ladies. 
 
 In moBthly parts, price 18., by post, Is. lid.
 
 Practical Handbooks, Mechanics. 7 
 
 HONITON LACE BOOK: 
 
 Containing Full and Practical Instructions for Making Homton Lace. With 
 numerous illustrations. 
 
 In cloth gilt, price 8s. Gd., by post, 8s. 9d. 
 
 PBACTICAIi DRESSMAKING: 
 
 Being Plain Directions for Taking Patterns, Fitting on. Cutting out. Making 
 up, and Trimming Ladies' and Children's Dresses. By R. MUNROE. 
 In paper, price Is., by post. Is. Id. 
 
 ARTISTIC FANCY WORK SERIES: 
 
 A series of Illustrated Manuals on Artistic and Popular Fancy Work of various 
 kinds. Each number of the series will be complete in itself, and issued at the 
 uniform price of 6d. 
 
 LEATHER WORK BOOK: 
 
 Containing Pull Instructions for Making and Ornamenting articles BO as to 
 successfully imitate Carved Oak ; specially written for the use of Amateurs. By 
 ROSA BAUGHAN. Illustrated. 
 
 In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d., by post, 2s. 9d. 
 
 CATALOGUE OP LADIES' AND CHILDREN'S DRESS 
 
 Patterns (Illustrated) : 
 
 Comprising Ladies' Dresses, Mantles, Underlinen, Girls' and Boys* Costumes, 
 Children's Underlinen, Ladies' Caps, Dressing Jackets, &c. This liot is added to 
 week by week, and at present contains nearly four hundred of the newest and 
 most seasonable designs. Post free on application. 
 
 MECHANICS. 
 
 PATENTS, TRADE MARKS, AND DESIGNS: 
 
 A Practical Guide to Inventors and Manufacturers for Securing Protection under 
 
 each of these heads. By ARCHIBALD CRAIG. 
 
 In cloth gilt, price Is. 6d., by post. Is. 8d. ; in paper, price Is., by post, Is. Id. 
 
 PRACTICAL ARCHITECTURE: 
 
 As applied to Farm Buildings of every description (Cow, Cattle and Calf Houses, 
 Stables, Piggeries, Sheep Shelter Sheds, Root and other Stores, Poultry Houses), 
 Dairies, and Country Houses and Cottages. Profusely Illustrated with Diagrams 
 and Plans. By ROBERT SCOTT BURN. 
 
 In cloth gilt, price 5s., by post, 5s. 4d. 
 
 PRACTICAL BOAT BUILDING FOR AMATEURS: 
 
 Containing full Instructions for Designing and Building Punts, Skiffs, Canoes. 
 Sailing Boats, &c. Fully illustrated with working diagrams. By ADRIAN 
 NEISON, C.E. New Edition, revised and enlarged by DIXON KEMP (Author of 
 " Yacht Designing," "A Manual of Yacht and Boat Sailing," &c.). 
 In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d., by post, 2s. 8d. 
 
 ART OF PYROTECHNY: 
 
 Being Comprehensive and Practical Instructions for the Manufacture of Fire- 
 works, specially designed for the use of Amateurs. Profusely Illustrated. By 
 W. H. BROWNE, Ph.D, M.A., L.R.C.P., &e. Second Edition. 
 In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d., by post, 2s. lOd. 
 
 MINOR FIREWORKS: 
 
 Containing Instructions for the Manufacture of the Common and Simple Varieties 
 of Fireworks. For the Use of Amateurs. Illustrated. By W. H. BROWNB, Ph.D., 
 M.A., Ac. (Author of " The Art of Pyrotechny"). 
 
 In paper, price Is., by post. Is. Id. 
 
 PRACTICAL FIREWORK MAKING FOR AMATEURS: 
 
 Being complete and explicit Directions in the Art of Pyrotechny, as applied to 
 both the Major and Minor Fireworks, for the use of Amateurs and Begincars. 
 By W. H. BROWHE, Ph.D., M.A., L.R.C.P., &c. Illustrated. 
 In cloth gilt, price 3s. 6d;. by post 3e. 9d. 
 
 PRINTING FOR AMATEURS: 
 
 A Practical Guide to the Art of Printing; containing Descriptions of Presses and 
 Materials, together with Details of the Processes employed, to whicu is added a 
 Glossary of Technical Terms. Illustrated. By P. E. RAYNOB. 
 In paper, price Is., by post Is. 2d. 
 
 TURNING FOR AMATEURS: 
 
 Containing full Description of the Lathe, with all its working parts and attach* 
 merits, and minute instructions for the effective use of them on wood, metal, and 
 ivory. Illustrated with ISO first class wood engravings. Second Edition. 
 In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d., by post, 2s. 9d. 
 
 CARPENTRY AND JOINERY FOR AMATEURS: 
 
 Contains full Descriptions of the various Tools required in the above Arts, 
 together with Practical Instructions for their use. By the Author of " Turning 
 for Amateurs," " Working in Sheet Metal." &c. 
 
 In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d., by post, 2s. 9d.
 
 8 Practical Handbooks, Published at 170, Strand, W.G. 
 
 PICTTTBE FRAME MAKING FOR AMATEURS: 
 
 Being Practical Instructions in the Making of various kinds of Frames for 
 Paintings, Drawings, Photographs, and Engravings. Illustrated. By the Author 
 Of "Carpentry and Joinery for Amateurs," &c. lln the Press. 
 
 WORKING IN SHEET METAL: 
 
 Being Practical Instructions for Making and Mending small Articles in Tin, 
 Copper, Iron, Zinc, and Brass. Illustrated. Third Edition. By the Author of 
 " Turning for Amateurs," &c. 
 
 In paper, price 6d., by post, G4d. 
 
 WOOD CARVING FOR AMATEURS: 
 
 Containing Descriptions of all the requisite Tools, and full Instructions for theii 
 use in producing different varieties of Carvings. Illustrated. 
 In paper, price Is., by poet, IB. id. 
 
 PRACTICAL MECHANICS FOR AMATEURS: 
 
 A Series of Treatises on Turning, Carpentry and Joinery, Working in Sheet Metal, 
 Wood Carving, Firework Making, and Printing. Illustrated. 
 In Cloth gilt, price 10s. 6d., by post, 11s. 2d. 
 
 ORGANS AND ORGAN BUILDING: 
 
 Giving the History and Construction of the Modern Organ, and Descriptions of the 
 most remarkable Instruments. With Important Specifications of celebrated 
 Organs. Illustrated. By C. A. EDWARDS. 
 
 In cloth gilt, price 5s., by post, 5s. 4d. 
 
 TUNING AND REPAIRING PIANOFORTES: 
 
 The Amateur's Guide to the Practical Management of a Piano without the inter- 
 vention of a Prof essional. By CHARLES BABBINGTON. 
 In paper, price 6d., by post 6id. 
 
 TOYMAKING FOR AMATEURS: 
 
 Containing Instructions for the Home Construction of Simple Wooden Toys, and 
 of others that are moved or driven by Weights, Clockwork, Steam, Electricity, 
 &c. Illustrated. By JAMES LUKIN, B.A. (Author of "Turning for Amateurs." 
 
 In cloth gilt, price 4s., by post 4s. 4d. 
 
 Part I. SIMPLE WOODEN TOYS, in paper, prica Is. 6d.. bv post Is. 8d. 
 Part II. CLOCKWORK. STEAM, and ELECTRICAL TOYS, in paper, 
 price 2s., by post 2a. 24 d. 
 
 MODEL YACHTS AND BOATS 
 
 Their Designing, Making, and Sailing. Illustrated with 118 Designs and Working 
 Diagrams. By J. DU V. GROSVENOR. 
 
 In leatherette, price 5s., by post, 5s. 4d. 
 
 NATURAL HI STORY. 
 
 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY: 
 
 A Manual pf Instruction to the Amateur in Collecting, Preserving, and Setting-up 
 Natural History Specimens of all kinds. Illustrated. By MONTAGU BBOWHB. 
 In cloth gilt, price Ss. 6d. by post, 3s. 9d. 
 
 COLLECTING BUTTERFLIES AND MOTHS: 
 
 Being Directions for Capturiag, Killing, and Preserving Lepidoptera and their 
 Larvae. Illustrated. Reprinted, with additions, from "Practical Taxidermy." 
 By MONTAGU BROWNE|( Author of " Practical Taxidermy "). 
 In paper, price Is., by post, Is. Id. . 
 
 POPULAR BRITISH FUNGI 
 
 Containing Descriptions and Histories of the Principal Fungi, both Edible and 
 Poisonous, of our Country. Illustrated. By JAMES BRITTEN, F.L.S.. &c. 
 In cloth gilt, price 3s. Cd., by post, 3s. yd. 
 
 BRITISH MARINE ALG-ffi: 
 
 Being a Popular Account of the Seaweeds of Great Britain, their Collection 
 and Preservation. Magnficently illustrated with 205 engravings. By W. H. 
 U RATTAN. In cloth gilt, price 5s. lid., by post, 54. lod, 
 
 ZOOLOGICAL NOTES: 
 
 On the Structure, Affinities, Habits, and Faculties of Animals; with Adventures 
 among and Anecdotes of th^m. By ARTHUR NICOLS, F.G.H.. F.R.G.S. (Author 
 of " The Puzzle of Life, and How it Has Been Put Together," " Chapters from the 
 Physical History of the Earth "). [In the press.
 
 Practical Handbooks Sports and Pastimes. 
 
 SPORTS AND PASTIMES. 
 
 COUNTRY POCKET BOOK AND DIARY, 1882: 
 
 For Reference and Registration. Full of facts and forms of the greatest value 
 and interest to Country Gentlemen and Sportsmen. Contents: Diaries and 
 Information on Scooting, Fishing. Hunting, Athletics, Football, Bicycling, 
 Coursing. Racing, Dogs, foultrj Exhibitions. Rowing. Swimming, Meteorology, 
 Cricket, Parliamentary Papers, &c., &c., with Pockets, Pencil, &c., complete. 
 Prices : In russia leather, 5s. Gd. ; roan, Ss. 6d. ; postage. 2d. 
 
 BICYCLES AND TRICYCLES OF THE YEAR: 
 
 Being a Chronicle of the New Inventions and Improvements for the present 
 Season, and forming a Permanent Record of the progress in the manufacture of 
 Bicycles and Tricycles. Designed also to assist intending purchasers in the choice 
 of a machine. Illustrated. By HARRY HEWITT GRIFFIN. (Published Annually.) 
 In paper, price is., by post, is. Id. 
 
 PRACTICAL TRAPPING: 
 
 Being some Papers on Traps and Trapping for Vermin, with a chapter on general 
 bird trapping and snaring. By W. CARNEGIE (" Moorman"). 
 In paper, price Is., by post, Is. Id. 
 
 PRACTICAL FISHERMAN: 
 
 Dealing with the Natural History, the Legendary Lore, tthe Capture of British 
 Fresh-water Fish, and Tackle and Tackle Making. Beautifully Illustrated. .by 
 J. H KEENE. 
 
 In cloth gilt, gilt edges, price 10s. 6d., by post, 11s. 
 
 NOTES ON GAME AND GAME SHOOTING: 
 
 Miscellaneous Observations on Birds and Animals, and on the Sport they Afford 
 for the Gun in Great Britain, including Grous-*, Partridges, Pheasants, Hares, 
 Rabbits, Quails, Woodcocks, Snipe, and Rooks. By J. J. MANLEY. M.A. (Author of 
 "Notes on Fish and Fishing"). Illustrated with Sporting Sketches by J. TEMPLE. 
 In cloth gilt, 400 pp., price 7s. 6d., by post, 7s. lOd. 
 
 PRACTICAL BOAT BUILDING AND SAILING: 
 
 Containing Full Instructions for Designing and Bnildin* Punts, Skiffs, Canoes, 
 Sailing Boats, &c. Particulars of the most suitable Sailing Boats and Yachts for 
 Amateurs, and Instructions for their proper handling. Fully Illustrated with 
 Designs and Working Diagrams. By ADRIAN NEISON, C.E., Dixos KEMP. 
 A.LN.A.. and G. CHRISTOPHER DAVIES. 
 
 In One Volume, cloth gilt., price 7s. ; by post, 7s. 6d, 
 
 BOAT SAILING FOR AMATEURS: 
 
 Containing Particulars of the most Suitable Sailing Boats and Yachts for Amateurs, 
 and Instructions for their Proper Handling, &c. Illustrated with numerous Dia- 
 grams. By G. CHRISTOPHER DAVIKS (Author of " The Swan and her Crew," &c.). 
 In cloth gilt, price 5s., by post, 5s. Sd. 
 
 PRACTICAL PHOTOGRAPHY: 
 
 Being the Hcience and Art of Photography, both Wet Collodion and the various 
 Dry Plate Processes, Developed for Amateurs and Beginners. Illustrated. By 
 O. E. WHEELER. [May also be had in parts as under] : 
 
 In cloth gilt, price 4s., by pose, te. 4d. 
 
 "WET COLLODION PROCESS: 
 
 The Art of Photography by this process, developed for Amateurs and Beginners. 
 (Being Part I. of " Practical Photography.") 
 
 In paper, price is., by post. Is. 2d. 
 
 DRY PLATE PHOTOGRAPHY: 
 
 The Art of Photography by this Process developed for Amateurs and Beginners. 
 (Being Part II. of "Practical Photograph]/.") 
 
 In paper, price Is., by post, Is. 2d. 
 
 PHOTOGRAPHIC MISCELLANEA : 
 (Being Part III. of "Practical Photography .") 
 
 In paper, price Is., by post Is. 2d. 
 
 THE PHOTOGRAPHER'S POCKET BOOK: 
 
 Containing Register for nearly 1000 Negatives. Compiled by O. WHEBLKB 
 (Author of " Practical Pnotography "). 
 
 Prices : In cloth. 8s. ; in leather 3s. 6d. ; by post, 2d. extra. 
 
 CARDS AND CARD TRICKS: 
 
 Containing a brief History of Playing Cards, Full Instructions, with Illustrated 
 Hands, for playing nearly all known games of chance or skill, from Whist to 
 Napoleon and Patience, and directions for performing a number of ^miming Tricks. 
 Illustrated. By H. b. HEATHER. 
 
 In eloth gilt, price 5s., by post, 5s. id. 
 
 SLEIGHT OF HAND: 
 
 Being Minute Instructions by the Aid of which, with proper practice, the Neatest 
 and most Intricate Tricks of Legerdemain can be successfully performed. Illus- 
 trated. By EDWIN SACHS. [May also be had in two parts, as follow :] 
 In cloth gilt, price as., by post, 5s. id.
 
 10 Practical Handbooks, Published at 170, Strand, W.C. 
 
 DBA-WING BOOM MAGIC: 
 
 Being Conjuring Tricks suited to Beginners, and for display in drawing rooms. 
 Hlut-trated. (forming Part I. of "Sleight of Hand.")' 
 
 in paper, price 2s., by post, 2s. 2d. 
 GRAND OB STAGE MAGIJ : 
 
 Being Instructions for the Performance of more intricate and showy conjuring 
 tricks, and suited to public display. Illustrated. (Forming Fart II. of "Sleight of 
 Sana") In paper, pnce 2s., by post, 2s. 2d. 
 
 THEATBICALS AND TABLEAUX VIVANTS FOB 
 
 Amateurs : 
 
 Giving full Directions as to Stage Arrangements, " Making up," Costumes, and 
 Acting, with numerous Illustrations. By CHAS. HARRISON. 
 In cloth gilt, price 2s. lid., by post, 2s. sci. 
 
 VARIOUS. 
 
 CHABACTEB INDICATED BY HANDWRITING : 
 
 With Illustrations in support of the Theories advanced, taken from Autograph 
 Letters of Statesmen, Lawyers, Soldiers, Ecclesiastics, Authors, Poets, Musicians, 
 Actors, and other persons. By K. BAUGHAN. 
 
 In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d., by post, 2s. 9d. 
 CHTTBCH FESTIVAL DECOBATIONS: 
 
 Comprising Directions and Designs for the Suitable Decoration of Churches for 
 Christmas, Easter, Whitsuntide, and Harvest. Illustrated. 
 In paper, pnce Is., by post, Is. Id. 
 
 STOCK AND SHABE INVESTMENTS: 
 
 Being Explanations for the General Reader of the Nature and Quality of the 
 different Classes of Securities dealt in on the Stock Exchange. By ALBERT 
 SHARWOOD. In paper, price Is., by post, Is. Id. 
 
 THE BAZAAB, EXCHANGE AND MART, AND JOUBNAL 
 of the Household: 
 
 Published three times weekly, viz., Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, contains 
 much useful and entertaining matter on Art, Mechanics, Travel, Live Stock, 
 Needlework, Gardening, Literature, Sport, &c., for Amateurs ; and affords an 
 unique and unrivalled medium for procuring or disposing of every description of 
 property. " Like all grand conceptions the process is remarkable tor its sim- 
 plicity." Globe. Price 2d., by post, 21d. 
 
 PIANOFORTES, 19 10s. 
 
 AMERICAN ORGANS, 9 5s. 
 
 HARMONIUMS, 5 15s. 
 
 Perfect in Tone and Touch. Elegant Walnut Cases. Every instrument warranted to 
 stand any extreme climate. Shippers and Dealers supplied. 
 
 Before deciding on purchasing, write for a descriptive Price List and Testimonials to 
 G. LINSTEAD, Manager, 
 
 COBDEN PIANOFORTE COMPANY, 
 
 18, EVERSHOLT STREET, CAMDEN TOWN, LONDON. 
 
 Bead the following Testimonials, selected from many hundreds : 
 
 Darley Ripley, Leeds, 25 Jan., 1878. DEAR SIR, The American Organ is to hand, and 
 is a really good instrument. The tone is all that can be desired, and the appearance is 
 far beyond my expectation. I am a teacher of music, and will recommend thf m. Yours 
 truly, J. C. BRADBURY. 
 
 British and Foreign Bible and Book and Tract Depot, 23, Church-street, Sheffield, 
 20 Oct., 1877. DEAB SIR, The Piano came safely. I am very much pleased with it as a 
 sweet and brilliant-toned instrument, and beautifully polished. My friends who have 
 tried it like it very much. It is also handsome in appearance. I shall > ecommend you 
 wnerever I can. I am, yours, c. E. RHODES. 
 
 Shieldt Daily News Office, 11, Howard-street, North Shields, 7 March, 1878. DEAR SIR, 
 The Harmonium has arrived, and gives great satisfaction. Your guarantee as regards 
 quality is quite fulfilled. We are glad that we can speak so favourably respecting it, and 
 it speaks very well in your favour when being used. Yours respectfully, 
 
 WHITECRO8S and YORKE. 
 
 64, Union-street, Maidstone, 27 Oct., 1879. DEAR SIR, About a year since I purchased 
 one of your American Organs. My family and friends are delighted with its superior 
 finish and brilliant tone : in a word, it is a " GBM." I could bear similar testimony of 
 your Pianofortes, and temperance friends requiring au instrument for the family circle 
 will do well to give your establishment a trial. Most respectfully yours, 
 
 G. H. GRAHAM,
 
 OOOOOC<XXXXXXX>C<OOO | OO<>O<XXX>OP 
 
 EVERYONE HIS OWN PRINTER WITH THE 
 
 N?i 
 
 ;HAND,FOOT& 
 
 TS STEAM POWER. 
 
 CAN BE WORKED BY A CHILD OF TEN. PRESS AND OUTFIT from 5 5s. 
 Patentees and. Manufacturers, 
 
 C. G. SQTJINTANI & CO., 
 
 3, LUDGATIRCUSUI^GONDON, E.C, 
 
 ALSO DEALERS IN TYPE AND PRINTING MATERIAL. 
 
 Send for our Illustrated Pamphlet "HOW TO PRINT" contalnlngr an abridged history of 
 the Art of Printing, Instructions in Printing, Catalogue of Type, &o. Post free. 7d.
 
 Large Size, Post Free, 24 Stamps. 
 
 Small Size, Post Free, 11 Stamps, 
 
 THIS UNRIVALLED POLISH 
 
 (Direct from Nature's Laboratory) 
 
 Is not a manufactured article, but a very remarkable natural production, 
 the best substance known for Cleaning and Polishing Gold, Silver, 
 and Jewels without the least injury, and will prevent pearls becoming 
 discoloured. 
 
 Sold in a handsome little box, with Brush, Leather, Directions for 
 Use, an Analysis, and numerous Testimonials, price Is. 
 
 A large size, containing also a Eing Cleaning Stick, and one for 
 cleaning Studs and Buttons, price 2s. 
 
 The SILICON is also sold in Powder, for Plate Cleaning, at 6d. 
 and Is. per box, and in canisters at 2s. 6d. 
 
 To be had through all Chemists, Fancy Goods Dealers, Jewellers, Brush 
 
 Shops, and Ironmongers, throughout the kingdom. 
 
 Wholesale of all London Fancy Warehouses and Wholesale Druggists, 
 and of the Proprietor, in bulk, rough, or in powder. 
 
 G EO. STEVENS, 
 
 SOLE IMPORTER, 
 376,
 
 ROWLAND'S TOILET ARTICLES, 
 
 20, HATTON GARDEN, LONDON. 
 
 ^RESERVING & BEAUTIFYING THE 
 
 ROWLAND'S ODONTO 
 
 Or PEABL DENTTFEICE is of inestimable value in preserving and beautifying' 
 the teeth, strengthening the gums, and giving a pleasant fragrance to the breath ; 
 it eradicates tartar from the teeth, prevents and arrests decay, and polishes and 
 preserves the enamel, to which it imparts a pearl-like whiteness. Its unprecedented 
 success for more than half a century shows the universal favour in which it is held, 
 while the fact of its being entirely free from any acid or mineral ingredients 
 constitutes it the safest and purest tooth powder ever used. To prevent fraud the 
 genuine Odonto has a 3d. Government stamp on the box. Ask for Rowland's 
 Odonto. 
 
 ROWLAND'S MACASSAR OIL 
 
 Is universally in high repute for its unprecedented success during the last 80 years 
 in promoting the growth, restoring, improving, and beautifying the human hair. 
 It prevents hair from falling off or turning grey, strengthens weak hair, cleanses it 
 from scurf and dandriff, and makes it beautifully soft, pliable, and glossy. For 
 children it is especially recommended, as forming the basis of a beautiful head of 
 hair, while its introduction into the nursery of Eoyalty is a sufficient proof of its 
 merits. Sold in usual four sizes. 
 
 ROWLAND'S KALYDOR, 
 
 An Eastern botanical preparation, perfectly free from all mineral or metallic 
 admixture. It is distinguished for its extremely bland, purifying, and soothing; 
 effects on the skin ; while by its action on the pores and minute secretory vessels, it 
 promotes a healthy tone, allays every tendency to inflammation, and thus effectually 
 dissipates all redness, tan, pimples, spots, freckles, discolourations, and other 
 cutaneous visitations. The radiant bloom it imparts to the cheek, the softness and 
 delicacy which it induces of the hands and arms, its capability of soothing irrita- 
 tion, and removing cutaneous defects, render it indispensable to every toilet. 
 Gentlemen after shaving will find it rendrs the skin soft, smooth, and pleasant. 
 Of all Chemists, at 4s. 6d. Avoid cheap spurious imitations. Sold by all dealers 
 in psrfumery.
 
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