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 THE LIBRARY 
 
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 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES 
 
 fill 
 of 
 
 eed 
 the 
 
 c __ 
 
 Some of the Gentlemen intending to Emigrate as FoUNDEBS 
 or THE SETTLEMENT, MEET DAILY at- these Rooms, from 
 Ten till Five o'clock ; and will be happy to receive and c 
 operate with those who may wish to join them as the I 
 Body of intending Colonists, or to give information 01 
 mibject to others, either orally or by letter. 
 
 1 JL, Adelphi Terrace, Jan. 12, 1850.
 
 THE HAND-BOOK 
 
 FOR 
 
 CONSISTING OF THE 
 
 MOST BECENT INFOKMATION. 
 
 FOE THE USE OF INTENDING COLONISTS. 
 
 A LATE MAGISTRATE OF THE COLONY, 
 
 WHO RESIDED THERE DURING FOUR YEARS. 
 
 LONDON: 
 JOHN W. PARKER, WEST STRAND. 
 
 M DCCC XI/VIII. 
 
 S -I X
 
 DO. 
 
 OWIXG to the fact, that several Maps of New Zealand 
 have already been published, and also to the knowledge 
 that a new one, Including all recent discoveries and 
 amendments, is actually on the point of publication 
 by a leading hydrographer, it has been thought un- 
 necessary to furnish a Map with the present work. 
 
 DECEMBEB, 1848. 
 
 745354.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PACE 
 
 Summary of Information contained 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Canterbury Association Sketch of their plan Preliminary ar- 
 rangements Proceedings The Old English spirit of Colonizing 3 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Capabilities of New Zealand Extent and Position Communica- 
 tion with England Mountains Lakes Resemblance to Italy 
 Mineral AVealth Rivers Face of the Country Harbours 
 Climate Vegetation Strong AVinds Salubrity 27 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Historical Summary 1709, Cook 1793, Conflicts 1814, SDssions 
 founded 1S22-2 7, Native Wars 1831, British Resident 
 1835, Independence Association of 1837 1838, Baring's Bill 
 1839, Land Company IS 10, Treaty of Waitangi British 
 Sovereignty New Zealand Company Colonization Governor 
 Hobson 1841, Bishop Land-sharks Controversies 1813, 
 Obstacles to progress Governor Fitzroy 1345, Debate, and 
 promises of Minister; 1^1 -3-0, Constitution Act Governor 
 Grey 1.846-7, Otago Settlement Government Arrangements 
 Details of Constitution 1848, Suspended Proclaimed . . iO 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 District of Wellington Port Nicholson Sailing Directions Town 
 of Wellington Karon Wade's Town Pitone Road Pitone ; 
 the Chief, Epuni Lower Hutt Valley Agliouby Gorge of 
 the Hutt Upper Hutt Valley Wairarapa Road Waifs
 
 VI CONTENTS. 
 
 Peninsula Happy Valley Ohariu Porirua Road Johnson- 
 ville Porirua Harbour Parramatta Ferry Waikanae 
 Otaki Native Civilization Ohau Mauawatu River and Dis- 
 trict Steam Saw-mill Wairarapa Plains Progress of 
 Sheep-fanning Entry and Table Islands Climate Garden- 
 ing Calendar Meteorological Tables Varieties of Soil 
 Natural Productions 1. Vegetable : Indigenous ; Intro- 
 duced 2. Animal : Indigenous ; Whale Fishery Whale 
 Hunt; Introduced 3. Mineral Land Original Distribution 
 Price Rent Cost of Clearing and Average Produce 
 Latest Prices Current Exports General Statistics Directory 87 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Coast, Country, and Rivers, N.W. of Wellington District Wan- 
 ganui River Sailing Directions Rural District Town of 
 Petre Statistics Native Rebellion Climate Hams and 
 Bacon Native Population Coal Inland Navigation Foot- 
 paths Garrison . . . . 208 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 elson District Mountain Ranges Waimea Plains Nelson 
 Haven and Town Facilities for Building Steam-Docks 
 Sailing Directions Massacre Bay Coal Motueka Moutere 
 Suburban Coasts of Blind Bay Port Hardy French Pass 
 Admiralty Bay Pelorus Sound Port Gore Queen Char- 
 lotte Sound Newton Bay and Waitohe Pass Projected Town 
 Tory Channel Te-awa-iti Tide in Cook's Strait Port Un- 
 derwood Wairau River Plain White Bluff Hills Kaipara- 
 te-ao Massacre of 1843 Cape Campbell Sheep-runs South 
 Wanganui West Coast Rivers Buller and Grey Lakes 
 Howick and Arthur Summary of Available Land Climate 
 Meteorological Tables Soil Roads Natural Productions: 
 1. Vegetable 2. Animal; Agricultural Society, 1847; Sheep- 
 farming 3. Mineral; Coal and Limestone Distribution of 
 Land Revised Plan Cost of Clearing Land, &c. General 
 Statistics, &c. Latest Prices Current Directory 214 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 District of Taranaki, or New Plymouth Mount Egmont Geolo- 
 gical Formation Face of Country Streams Town of New
 
 CONTENTS. Ml 
 
 Plymouth Devon Road Roadstead Sugar-loaf Point and 
 Islands Inland Bridle-path Country to S.E. of District 
 Waitera River Country Northwards Mokau lliver Climate 
 and Soil Natural Productions Minerals Distribution of 
 Land Cost of Cultivation and Average Produce Prices Sta- 
 tistics Directory 273 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Free Church of Scotland Colony projected in 1843 Exploring Ex- 
 pedition to select site Country on the East Const of Middle 
 Island Authorities Otago District Inland Water Commu- 
 nication Face of Country Otago Harbour Proposed Sites of 
 Dunedin and Port Chalmers Sailing Directions Rural Dis- 
 tricts Downs Taieri Plain Waiora Lake Tokomairiro 
 Plain Clutha, or Molyneux, River Lagoons Plain of the 
 Clutha Bluff Harbour New River Jacob's River Chalky 
 and Dusky Bays Milford Haven Country between Banks's 
 Peninsufa and Otago Irregular Settlements Climate 
 Weather-Tables Natural Productions Minerals Coal 
 Greenstone Free Church Association Plan of Colonization 
 agreed upon Completion of Surveys Departure of First Colo- 
 nists Provision for Education Land Sold Subsequent Emi- 
 gration 291 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Country between Cape Campbell and Otago Grassy Plains 
 Kaikora Banks's Peninsula Isthmus, and Plains adjoining 
 Ports Cooper and Ashley Communication with Plains 
 Rivers flowing into Pegasus Bay Pigeon Bay Akaroa Har- 
 bour Settlement of Nanto-Bordelaise Company Claims to 
 Land The Bishop of New Zealand's remarks on these harbours 
 Coast and Rivers between Akaroa and Otago Sites for Set- 
 tlements compared 320 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Auckland District Official Information Gulf of Hanraki Valley 
 of the Thames Harbour and Town of Auckland Adjacent 
 Harbours and Districts Climate Natural Productions Dis- 
 tribution of Land, &c. Prices and Wages Statistics 
 Directory 839
 
 Till CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER All. 
 
 Country North of Auckland Dr. Dieffenbach the best authority 
 The Land's End Mount Carmel Awaroa River and Valley 
 Kaitaia Large Native Population Land alienated Hilly 
 Range Mangonni Harbour Putekaka River Wangaroa Har- 
 bour Marble False Hokianga Hokianga Wet Climate 
 Lake Maupere Thermal Springs AVaimate Church Mission 
 Bay of Islands Harbour Town-sites Statistics AVairoa 
 River Kaipara Harbour Tributary Rivers. Kaipara proper 
 Portage to Auckland Climate of the Northern Extremity of 
 New Zealand 383 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Officers of the New Zealand Company Its Objects and Powers 
 Summary of Operations up to 1845 Capital and Dividend:-- 
 Latest Accounts Audited Agreement of April, 1847 Crown 
 Grants held Regulations for Sale of Land, and Passage Me- 
 morandum for Passengers Colonists' Room at New Zealand 
 House ... 407 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Former Local Government of New Zealand Evils Present Go- 
 vernment possesses equal Evils List of Ordinances passed by 
 the Legislative Council 423 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Preparations necessary for a Colonist Special Education What 
 to Learn Languages Mathematics Arts founded on them 
 Geology Botany Chemistry Surgery Agriculture Music 
 Cookery Various other useful branches of knowledge Po- 
 litical Economy What to buy for Exportation, and how to 
 Export Clothes Saddlery, Harness, &c. Carriage Cattle 
 Sheep Horses Dogs House Furniture Fire-arms, &c. 
 Agricultural Instruments Boats Mathematical Instruments 
 Musical Instruments Cricket Apparatus, &c. Birds Game 
 Seeds and Plants Money Land-Orders, or Land Books, 
 fcc. Engravings Hints for the Passage AVhat to do on Ar- 
 rival 43C 
 
 APPENDICES 4CJ
 
 THE 
 
 HAND-BOOK FOR NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 SUMMARY OF INFORMATION CONTAINED. 
 
 THE proceedings of the " ASSOCIATION FOR FOUNDING 
 THE SETTLEMENT OF CANTERBURY, IN NEW ZEALAND," 
 have excited, especially among members of the Church 
 of England, a very general interest in the plan of colo- 
 nization promoted by that body; and a demand appears 
 thereby to have been created for some detailed informa- 
 tion, not only as to that plan, but also as to New Zea- 
 land, the country which the Association have selected 
 as the field most suitable for their operations. Such 
 information as to New Zealand has hitherto been lying 
 scattered through a mass of books and other publica- 
 tions, put forth by travellers, missionaries, Colonists, 
 non-colonist officials, journalists, Committees of both 
 Houses of Parliament, the Colonial Department of Her 
 Majesty's Government, and the New Zealand Com- 
 pany which has now become a branch of that depart- 
 ment, at different periods between Captain Cook's 
 voyages in the middle of the last century, and the pre- 
 sent time. But one portion of these documents is out 
 of print, expensive, or difficult of access; another re- 
 lates only to a particular portion of the Islands, or has 
 been superseded by more recent publications; and the 
 remainder is little more than a desultory record of the 
 wearying disputes which have taken place, either in 
 the Colony or in England, between various parties con- 
 cerned. In short, scarcely one, among recent publica- 
 B
 
 2 SUMMARY OP 
 
 tions, has been entirely devoted to the sort of informa- 
 tion desired by, intending Colonists of New Zealand. 
 
 Such persons, and especially those who are about to 
 take a part in founding the proposed Settlement of Can- 
 terbury, it is the object of this work to supply, in as 
 cheap and compact a form as possible, with the details 
 of knowledge which they require on the subject. These 
 will comprise a statement of the early proceedings of 
 the Canterbury Association, and of the plans for future 
 operations on which they have hitherto determined; a 
 general description of the geographical position and 
 conformation of New Zealand, and of its physical fea- 
 tures and capabilities for production and commerce; a 
 brief sketch of its history, from the earliest discovery 
 of the group up to the present time; a separate descrip- 
 tion of each of the existing Settlements, and of the 
 several districts of country, now lying either totally un- 
 occupied or only partially inhabited, which have been 
 as yet explored, and which appear to offer eligible sites 
 for the Canterbury Colony; all particulars relating to 
 the New Zealand Company and its colonizing arrange- 
 ments; an account of the political institutions by which 
 the present Colonists are governed, and of those which 
 have been promised them for the future; and a sum- 
 mary of the preparations necessary for departure, with 
 any other information which may suggest itself as of 
 use to the intending Colonist. 
 
 This information will be gathered from the most 
 recent and authentic of those abundant sources which 
 have been above enumerated. The compiler has also 
 enjoyed the advantage of personal observation, while 
 travelling over various parts of New Zealand, during 
 the first four years and a half of the colonization which 
 has actually taken place: and he has watched, with the 
 attentive interest of an early Colonist, during a subse- 
 quent sojourn of four years in England, the gradual 
 growth of that opinion in favour of systematic colo- 
 nization, combining ample provision for religious and
 
 INFORMATION CONTAINED. 3 
 
 educational purposes with the other advantages namely, 
 due preparation for the arrival of the Colonists, and an 
 adequate supply of labour, which has resulted in the 
 formation and proceedings of the Canterbury Association. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Canterhury Association Sketch of their plan Preliminary ar- 
 rangements Proceedings The Old English spirit of Colonizing. 
 
 THE following is a list of the Members of the Associa- 
 tion mentioned in the preceding chapter: 
 
 THE ARCHBISHOP OF CANTERBURY, PRESIDENT. 
 
 The Archbishop of Dublin. 
 
 The Duke of Buccleuch. 
 
 The Marquis of Cholmondeley. 
 
 The Earl of Ellesmere. 
 
 The Earl of Hare wood. 
 
 The Earl of Lincoln, M.P. 
 
 Viscount Mandeville. M.P. 
 
 The Bishop of London. 
 
 The Bishop of Winchester. 
 
 The Bishop of Exeter. 
 
 The Bishop of Ripon. 
 
 The Bishop of St. David's. 
 
 * The Bishop of Oxford. 
 
 Bishop Coleridge. 
 
 Lord Ashburton. 
 
 Lord Lyttelton. 
 
 Viscount Alford, M.P. 
 
 Lord Courtenay. M.P. 
 
 Lord Ashler, M.P. 
 
 Lord A. Hervey, M.P. 
 
 Lord J. Manners. 
 
 Sir Walter Farqnbar, Bart. 
 
 Sir W. Heathcote, Bart., M.P. 
 
 Sir W. James, Bart. 
 
 Sir Willoughby Jones, Bart. 
 
 Right Hon. H". Goulburn, M.P. 
 
 Right Hon. Sidney Herbert, M.P. 
 
 * Hon. Sir Edward Cust, K.C.H. 
 The Dean of Canterbury. 
 
 C. B. Adderley, Esq., M.P. 
 W. H. Pole Carew, Esq., M.P. 
 
 * Hon. R. Cavendish. 
 
 * Hon. F. Charteris, M.P. 
 
 * Thos. SomersCocks,Esq., M.P. 
 Rev. E. Coleridge. 
 
 * Wm. Forsyth, Esq. 
 *Rev. G. R'. Gleig. 
 J. R. Godley, Esq. 
 Edmund Halswell, Esq. 
 Ven. Archdeacon Hare. 
 Rev. E. Hawkins. 
 Rev. Dr. Hinds. 
 
 Rev. Dr. Hook. 
 John Hutt, Esq. 
 G. K. Rickards, Esq. 
 
 * J. Simeon, Esq., M.P. 
 A. Stafford, Esq., M.P. 
 Hon. J. Talbot. 
 
 Rev. C. M. Torlesse. 
 Rev. R. C. Trench. 
 
 * E. Jerningham Wakefield, Esq. 
 Ven. Archdeacon Wilberforce. 
 
 (Those marked * form the Committee of Management.) 
 The Secretary is Mr. H. F. Alston; and the Office of the Asso- 
 ciation is at No. 41, Charing Crobs, London.
 
 4 SKETCH OF THE PLAN FOR THE 
 
 The following extracts from the earliest publication 
 of the Association, called " A Sketch of the Plan which 
 has been formed for the Establishment of the Canter- 
 bury Settlement, and of the views on which that Plan 
 is founded," will be of the greatest interest to all 
 members of the Church of England, and especially to 
 intending Colonists. 
 
 " It has now become a truism to say that, as a nation, we do not 
 take, indeed never have taken, a proper view of our duties and 
 responsibilities as the founders of Colonies. The ancients sent out 
 a full representation of the parent state, a complete segment of 
 society, to become the germ of a new nation. They carried with 
 them their gods, their rites, their festivals ; nothing was left behind 
 that could be moved, of all that the heart and eye of an exile misses. 
 Under the influence of such consolations for the loss of home, men. 
 of all classes yielded to the natural feeling of restlessness and desire 
 for scope and room which is produced by the pressure of population 
 in an old country, a feeling not only excusable but laudable, and 
 evidently implanted by Providence for the purpose of carrying out 
 the scheme by wliich the earth is replenished and subdued." 
 
 "It is humiliating to reflect on the contrast which modern 
 colonizing operations have exhibited ; most of our emigrations have 
 been composed almost entirely of one class, and that class the one 
 which is least able to take care of itself, as regards the preservation 
 of all the higher elements of civilization. Driven from their mother 
 country by the difficulty of obtaining subsistence, they found them- 
 selves in the British colonies strangers iu a strange land. They got 
 comparatively rich, doubtless : at any rate they lived better, and 
 provided for their families better, than they could have done at home ; 
 but at what a price were these advantages purchased ! If the 
 institutions and arrangements of British society be (as we are in the 
 habit of considering them) wholesome and desirable ; or if, whether 
 wholesome and desirable or not, they have become essential to the 
 comfort and happiness of those who have grown up under their 
 shadow, how painful and injurious must be the shock when the 
 habits, feelings, and associations which are produced by them, and 
 which have become so deeply rooted in the moral being of an 
 English emigrant, are suddenly torn away ! It is no wonder if we 
 find that society in our Colonies, originating as it did under such 
 circumstances, has so often presented but a defaced resemblance to 
 that of the parent state, while exhibiting, in an exnggerated form, 
 some of the worst characteristics of our age and country. How 
 could it be otherwise ? Let us consider the position of the poor 
 and uneducated emigrant in his adopted country. He has been 
 accustomed to seek from the affluent and cultivated class above him,
 
 SETTLEMENT OF CANTERBURY. 5 
 
 relief in distress, and advice in difficulty; members of tbat class 
 rarely emigrate under our present system. He Las been used to go 
 to tbe neighbouring church ; in the new settlement he has access, 
 if lit all, certainly with difficulty, to any place of worship. He has 
 children old enough to go to school ; he needs religious rites and 
 consolations ; the schoolmasters and clergymen are few in number 
 and widely dispersed. In short, no care has been taken to make 
 duo provision for the cravings of his moral nature; we have thought 
 of our colonists chiefly as of so much flesh and blood requiring to 
 be renewed by food and covered with clothing ; the food of the heart 
 lias received but secondary care. Hence have proceeded the mate- 
 rialism, the rudeness, above all, the neglect of religion, which have 
 been but too general in the new countries which we have peopled, 
 but which we have been in the habit of regarding with indifference, 
 if not with contempt. It were well if we oftener recollected that 
 these untoward results are due to our own defective process of 
 colonization, and that our business and duty is, not to complain of 
 reaping as we have sown, but to effect, if possible, such a reform in 
 that process as may correct, in a measure, the evils of the past, and, 
 at all events, provide against their recurrence." 
 
 " We are anxious not to state too strongly the grounds for tbe 
 present attempt, as arising from the actual state of our dependencies. 
 We are aware that, with regard to several if not all of them, higher 
 and worthier views have been entertained and acted on at home, and 
 also that the state of society existing in them, in the important 
 respects which we have referred to, is very much better than it 
 formerly was, and is, we may hope, in a condition of progressive and 
 constant improvement. But we do feel that those efforts after 
 improvement labour under this disadvantage, that they are, in 
 great measure, efforts to overtake an evil which has been for some 
 time in occupation of the ground, and are necessarily deficient in 
 method and in comprehensiveness. Our present object is, therefore, 
 to set an example of a colonial settlement in which, from the first, 
 all the elements, including the very highest, of a good and right 
 state of society, shall find their proper place and their active opera- 
 tion." 
 
 "Such are the first principles of the design; the promoters of it 
 have become convinced that men of station and character, of cultiva- 
 tion and refinement, moral and religious men, such as contribute by 
 their influence to elevate and purify the tone of society, are in great 
 measure deterred from emigrating, by a fear of those moral plagues 
 which have been described as rife in new countries. Especially 
 fathers of families, who see no prospect of providing for their 
 children in their own station of life at home, must be quite aware of 
 the opportunities which a colonial life affords of comfortable inde- 
 pendence and advantageous settlement ; but they consider, and 
 justly, such benefits as too dearly purchased by the possible loss of 
 B2
 
 6 SKETCH OF THE PLAN FOR THE 
 
 the appliances of civilization and the ordinances of religion. They 
 do not choose to expose their children to the danger of growing up 
 \vithoutthenieaiis of education, and thus of relapsing into virtual 
 atheism, or of joining, from a kind of necessity, the communion of 
 the nearest sect which hears the Christian name. It is perceived, 
 then, that adequate provision for man's moral and religious wants in 
 the new country contains the primary element of successful colo- 
 nization, not only on account of the importance of such provision 
 per sc, but also because thereby alone can a really valuable class of 
 men be induced to join in the foundation and settlement of colonies." 
 
 " Upon this idea our plan is founded. We intend to form a 
 Settlement, to be composed entirely of members of our own Church, 
 accompanied by an adequate supply of clergy, with all tlie appliances 
 requisite for carrying out her discipline and ordinances, and with 
 full provision for extending them in proportion to the increase of 
 population." 
 
 " As, by preserving unity of religious creed, the difficulties which 
 surround the question of education are avoided, we shall be enabled 
 to provide amply and satisfactorily for that object." 
 
 " The Committee of Management will have the power of refusing 
 to allow any person of whom they may disapprove to become an 
 original purchaser of laud, and, as that power will be carefully 
 exercised, it is hoped that ineligible colonists may be almost entirely 
 excluded, and that the new community will have at least a fair start 
 in a healthy moral atmosphere." 
 
 " The purchasers of land will have the selection of labourers to 
 be recommended for a free passage ; such labourers to be also, 
 exclusively, lonajidc members of the English Church." 
 
 After stating that New Zealand has been fixed upon 
 as the site for the projected Colony, and giving a general 
 outline of the arrangements as to the price of land, and 
 as to the collection and management of the contribu- 
 tions required from each purchaser towards the objects 
 of the Association arrangements which have since been 
 further matured and cai'ried into detail, and which will 
 be found fully described in the ensuing portion of this 
 chapter the ' Sketch' thus continues: 
 
 " Such are the main features of the plan ; those who bring it 
 before the public propose to themselves a high object, being nothing 
 less than a reform in our system of colonization, which might 
 almost appear to have been based on the assumption that colonists 
 have no intellects to be cultivated, no souls to be saved ; and that 
 by emigrating they lose their right to the feelings and aspirations, 
 the habits and institutions of Englishmen. They believe that by a
 
 SETTLEMENT OF CANTERBURY. 7 
 
 careful application of the means which they have devised, it will be 
 found possible lo preserve the blessings of religion and civilization, 
 according to the forms, attachment to which has become a second 
 nature in Englishmen, and at the same time to give a full develop 
 meut to the virtues which are exhibited, and the advantages which 
 we enjoyed, by a young and prosperous people ; and they confidently 
 hope that, it' the present undertaking be successful, its example will 
 be quickly followed, and will produce, ultimately, the most im- 
 portant and beneficial consequences upon the Church, the Colonies, 
 and the Empire." 
 
 "It is conceived by the promoters of the Settlement now con- 
 templated, that the present time is one peculiarly fitted for bringing 
 the plan before the public. Extraordinary changes are taking place 
 in the political and social system of Europe ; the future is dark and 
 troubled; "men's hearts are failing them for fear;'' and many 
 persons who have been deterred hitherto by dread of change from 
 entering upon the new career afforded by colonization, will now 
 probably be impelled into it by the same motive acting in a different 
 direction. There can be no doubt whatever that the " uneasy 
 classes ", in this country are very numerous. They belong to all 
 ranks of society; but we have one, more particularly, in view; we 
 allude to clergymen and country gentlemen who began life, perhaps, 
 with what was then a competency, but who have now to meet the 
 demands produced by large and growing families, who foresee the 
 necessity of descending to a lower station in life than that which 
 they have hitherto occupied, and to whose children the crowd and 
 pressure observable in every walk of life seem to close every 
 reasonable chance of progress, or even subsistence. Such are 
 especially the persons to whom a civilized and well-ordered Colony, 
 such as we propose to found, cannot but appear a welcome refuge. 
 There is in a colonial life an absence of pretension, a universal 
 plenty, a friendship of social intercourse, a continually increasing 
 demand and reward for every kind of labour and exertion, which to 
 those who have been suffering from the struggle between pride and 
 penury, aud whose minds are continually filled with anxiety about 
 the future, is very pleasing and enjoyable. Supposing, even, that 
 there be not opportunity for making large fortunes, the class of 
 whom wo speak do not aspire to make them ; they would be satisfied 
 with living in comfort and plenty, without care for what is to come, 
 on a level, in point of income, with their friends aud neighbours ; 
 looking upon each additional child as an additional blessing, instead 
 of, as now, an additional burden; enjoying a quiet and happy life in 
 a fine climate and a beautiful country, where want is unknown, aud 
 listening from afar, with interest indeed, but without anxiety, to the 
 din of war, to the tumult of revolutions, to the clamour of pauperism, 
 to the struggle of classes, which wear out body and soul in our 
 crowded and feverish Europe.''
 
 8 PRELIMINARY ARRANGEMENTS OF THE 
 
 " It would be easy to swell the list of those whom circumstances 
 hare predisposed to emigration, by describing the benefits which it 
 holds out to the struggling yeoman, the small capitalist, the enter- 
 prising trader ; to these the prosperity promised by good colonization 
 cannot fail to render our Settlement specially attractive ; but its 
 peculiar feature consists in the benefits which it is intended to hold 
 out to persons of refined habits and cultivated tastes, whom the 
 moral evils inherent in our present modes of emigration have pre- 
 vented from availing themselves of its material advantages." 
 
 " Our settlement will be provided with a good College, good 
 schools, Churches, a Bishop, clergy, all those moral necessaries, in 
 short, which promiscuous emigration of all sects, though of one 
 class, makes it utterly impossible to provide adequately." 
 
 " It is hoped that nothing may be left undone which is required 
 to fill the void (so far as it can be filled) which the loss of home 
 presents to the imagination of a Colonist, to strengthen, instead of 
 weakening, the ties of memory and affection which should connect 
 him with England, to save him, in short, from losing his old 
 country while he gains a new one." 
 
 " The Church of England is now doing that which her sons 
 complain, not without reason, that she ought to have done long ago ; 
 she is sending forth a segment of her own body a complete 
 specimen of her organization which may perpetuate the preserva- 
 tion of her doctrine and discipline among nations yet unborn." 
 
 A pamphlet, containing a much fuller prospectus of 
 the Association's plans, has recently been published.* 
 The first part relates to the " Capabilities of New 
 Zealand for Colonization;" but as it consists chiefly of 
 extracts from several of the numerous authorities which 
 have been consulted in order to complete the subsequent 
 Chapters of the present work, any quotations from it 
 will be unnecessary. 
 
 The second part, however, describes the " Pre- 
 liminary arrangements and economy of the proposed 
 Settlement." It thus commences: 
 
 " The rapidity of the growth of most of the ancient Greek 
 colonies, which was such that, at the expiration of a century, 
 the wealth and population of the colony frequently exceeded 
 those of the parent state, has led many to compare the 
 colonial policy of those days with that of our time and 
 
 * ' Plan of the Association for founding the Settlement of Canter- 
 bury in New Zealand: Price 6rf. John W. Parker, 1848.
 
 SETTLEMENT OF CANTERBURY. 9 
 
 nation. The result of the comparison has been the dis- 
 covery of three most important differences between the two 
 5, which are quite sufficient to account for the very 
 different measures of success which have attended them. 
 
 The Greek Colonies sailed from the parent states per- 
 fectly organized, and, for all purposes of internal govern- 
 ment, independent societies. 
 
 The territory occupied by each was closely limited to 
 tliiit which sufficed for the agricultural industry of the 
 Colonists, by the necessity of a concentrated population, 
 to protect the lives and property of all from the inroads of 
 the original owners of the soil, whom they had dispos- 
 sessed. 
 
 They had slaves, which secured to them abundance of 
 labour. 
 
 It cannot be expected that these three conditions will be 
 fulfilled in the proposed Settlement of members of the Church 
 of England in New Zealand ; but it may be alleged, with 
 truth, that there will be a greater approach to these, or 
 equivalent, conditions in this, than has been ever accom- 
 plished in any other settlement of modern times. 
 
 The Colonists will sail from England as far as possible Form of go- 
 au organized society ; and it is the intention of Her Majesty's vernment. 
 Government to direct that the Settlement of Canterbury may 
 be, if no local obstacles or other unforeseen objections pre- 
 vent it, constituted a distinct Province, with a separate 
 Legislature.* If this intention be carried out, they will 
 possess institutions of local self-government to an extent 
 unexampled in the history of new Colonies in modern times, 
 and the enjoyment of this boon, alone, would suffice to stamp 
 the Canterbury Settlement with a peculiar character, and to 
 make it spemlly attractive in the eyes of all who are 
 acquainted with the evils of the opposite system. Its 
 Colonists will possess complete powers of self-taxation, of 
 legislation upon all matters which concern themselves alone, 
 and of control over all functionaries engaged in local ad- 
 ministration, without any interference on the part of other 
 and differently constituted communities, while it is hoped 
 that the care exercised in selecting those Colonists, and then- 
 general unity of opinion on topics which form a fertile source 
 of discord at home, will enable them to exercise with peculiar 
 advantage and facility the privileges with which it is hoped 
 thut they will be entrusted. 
 
 The population will be concentrated, not by precautions Concen- 
 againftt the hostile inroads of a warlike aboriginal population, tration. 
 
 * See page iJ3.
 
 10 
 
 PRELIMINARY ARRANGEMENTS OF THE 
 
 Supply of 
 labour. 
 
 Other dis- 
 tinctive 
 features. 
 
 Price of 
 land. 
 
 Application 
 of proceeds. 
 
 but by the large sum of money required to be advanced in 
 the purchase of every acre of land. 
 
 It will not have the economic gain, with the moral de- 
 gradation, of a slave population, to develope the riches of 
 the country; but the immigration fund will supply a larger 
 amount of free labour to the capitalist than has hitherto 
 been procurable in recent British Settlements. 
 
 We proceed to notice the following distinctive features 
 of the proposed Settlement, which give it, as is conceived, 
 an additional claim to superiority. 
 
 These are the preliminary trigonometrical survey of 
 the territory to be occupied by the Settlement ; 
 
 The method of free selection of land, by every purchaser 
 of a land order ; 
 
 The arrangement for the selection of immigrants of the 
 labouring classes ; 
 
 The preparation of roads, sawn timber, and other con- 
 veniences, before the arrival of the first body of Colonists ; 
 
 The pasturage system ; 
 
 Religious and Educational endowments. 
 
 To secure the advantages proposed by the Association, 
 it will be necessary to demand an outlay of 31. an acre from 
 purchasers of rural land. This will doubtless appear a large 
 price to those persons who have not made the elements of the 
 value of land the subject of a particular study, but judge prin- 
 cipally from the prices at which they hear that land in such 
 countries as Canada and Western Australia may be obtained. 
 
 On the other hand, it is believed that few, who are quali- 
 fied to form a correct judgment on this important subject, 
 will deny that land in this Settlement will be really cheap 
 to every resident proprietor. Let us analyse his outlay. 
 
 In the event of 1,000,000 acres of rural land beiug sold, 
 which would produce 3,000,000/., this sum will be expended 
 in the following manner : 
 
 One-sixth, or 10s. per acre, will be paid to the 
 
 New Zealand Company for the land . . 500,000 
 
 One-sixth will be appropriated to surveys and 
 other miscellaneous expenses of the Asso- 
 ciation 500.000 
 
 Two-sixths to immigration 1,000,000 
 
 Two-sixths to Ecclesiastical and educational 
 
 purposes 1,000,000 
 
 Total -3,000,000 
 
 The price of rural land is 10*. per acre, which is not more 
 than will suffice to repay the New Zealand Company the out-
 
 SETTLEMENT OF CANTERBURY. 11 
 
 lay and risk of loss incurred in opening New Zealand to 
 colonization, in purchasing the land from the natives, and 
 in maintaining the establishment which is necessary in the 
 Colony to protect its property and carry on its operations ; 
 and in England to represent its interests to the Imperial 
 Government, and to promote its colonization. 
 
 Nor is the land dear at tbis price, considered in itself, 
 without reference to the outlay at which it may have been 
 acquired by the New Zealand Company. If reference be 
 made to the extracts given in the preceding pages to esta- 
 blish its fertility and climate ; if the cost of conveying its 
 produce to market be considered ; and if this land be then 
 compared with land at the same price beyond the Missis- 
 sippi, or the lakes in Canada, .^fertility, position, and climate 
 being the principal elements of the value of wild land, in 
 whatever part of the world it may be.) it will appear that 
 not even in those parts of the world where it seems to be 
 cheapest, can land, haviny equal quantities of these elements 
 of value, be purchased at so low a price as in New Zealand. 
 
 A contribution of 10s. per acre will be required from every Preliminary 
 purchaser of rural land, to form a fund to defray the expense *""l ey 
 of the preliminary trigonometrical survey of the territory; ro " ds - 
 of the subsequent surveys of each section as it may be 
 selected ; of commencing the formation of the principal roads, 
 marked on the general chart ; of the few temporary buildings 
 required : of the Association iu England ; and of the neces- 
 -iff in the colony. 
 
 This forms no part of the price of the land. The pur- 
 chaser from Government in America, or the other British 
 Colonies, neither pays for, nor has, any of these advantages. 
 There the Goveniment land is divided, more or less accu- 
 rately, into sections, according to the regulations as to not 
 only figure, but size, which may from time to time be pre- 
 scribed by the Government. Every intending purchaser 
 must choose one of these sections, however wide it may be 
 of the particular lot of land which he may wish to ob- 
 tain. But an accurate preliminary trigonometrical survey 
 of the whole territory that invaluable guide to the selec- 
 tion of the best lines of road, and the best lots of land has 
 never been attempted in any new Settlement heretofore ; 
 although, in such a case, every operation of humau industry 
 being yet unattempted, its utility would be very much greater 
 than in an old country, where it reveals so much that has 
 been misdirected and misplaced. Even in Europe, the in- 
 habitants of few territories have the advantage of such a 
 survey as the purchasers in this district will possess. In 
 the British Islands, a similar one is not yet completed.
 
 12 PRELIMINARY ARRANGEMENTS OF THE 
 
 The gain to the settlers in the diminished cost of making 
 the great roads in the best lines, as compared with that of 
 making them in improper lines at first, and afterwards con- 
 tinually altering them, will much more than repay them for 
 the outlay incurred in making this survey. The vast ad- 
 vantage of security and accuracy of boundary, and the faci- 
 lity of the registration and transfer of all landed property, 
 will be clear gain. These advantages will be cheaply pur- 
 chased by the outlay which tliis survey will cost. 
 
 At no period of a settler's progress are roads so essential 
 to his convenience almost to his existence as when he 
 first proceeds to locate himself in the bush. His family, 
 his household goods and agricultural implements, and food 
 to sustain his establishment until the fruits of their labour 
 shall be sufficient, must all be conveyed to his new abode. 
 The loss of time, labour, and property incurred in this ope- 
 ration, in a new country where no roads have been pre- 
 viously formed, will be sufficiently estimated only by those 
 who have had experience in America and Australia. The 
 purchasers of land, in the Settlement to be formed under 
 the auspices of the Association, will make a contri- 
 bution accordingly to these expenses. If this money be 
 economically expended, (and effectual precaution to secure 
 economy in this and every other expenditure of the funds 
 contributed by the purchasers of land can and will If tnki-n 
 by the Association,) it may confidently be asserted that a 
 more judicious investment of part of the settler's capital 
 could scarcely be made. 
 
 As regards the expenses of the Association in England, 
 and in the Settlement, the station and character of its mem- 
 bers, and their moral responsibility to the Colonists to pro- 
 tect their interests to the utmost, afford, it may be hoped, a 
 sufficient guarantee against any abuses of administration. 
 Moreover, every operation, such as road-making, bridge- 
 making, and buildings of all sorts, the execution of which 
 can conveniently be submitted to public competition, will be 
 conducted in that manner. The utmost publicity will lie 
 courted ; the most detailed information of its expenditure 
 will be afforded. 
 
 Immigration Another contribution which will be required from the 
 purchaser namely, a sum equal to twice the amount of the 
 price of the land, or 11. per acre for rural land, to be ex- 
 pended on immigration, may confidently be asserted to be a 
 most advantageous investment of part of his cnpitiil ; and, 
 at the same time, one which lie could not safely make, unless 
 it were compulsory upon the whole body. Indeed, a larger 
 sum than this might advantageously be applied to this pur-
 
 SETTLEMENT OF CANTERBURY. 13 
 
 pose, if all other appropriated land in New Zealand had 
 already contributed, or would now contribute in the larger 
 proportion, as will appear from the following consideration. 
 
 Supposing that it be considered necessary, in order to the 
 most profitable system of tillage, that at least one adult male 
 agricultural labourer should be imported into the Settlement 
 for every thirty acres sold ; and supposing, moreover, that 
 on the average there be one such adult male labourer in 
 every six individuals among the labouring immigrants of all 
 ages and both sexes ; it will then appear necessary that six 
 such immigrants should be landed for every thirty acres sold. 
 But, as the average cost of passage cannot be reckoned at 
 less than I")/, for each individual, the sale of thirty acres 
 will only furnish the passage-money of two individuals. 
 
 The contribution, therefore, to the immigration fund, will 
 certainly be insufficient ; but, as other owners of land in New 
 Zealand have not contributed so much to the labour fund of 
 the Colony, they would reap the advantage of any larger out- 
 lay, at the expense of the Association. 
 
 It must, also, be remembered, that there is a considerable 
 elasticity in tbe last of the three elements laud, labour, and 
 system of agriculture, which have to be adjusted to each 
 other in every agricultural community. In New Zealand, 
 the modification which the system of agriculture must re- 
 ceive, in order to adjust it to the other two elements, is a 
 great increase in the quantity of grass land. After the land 
 shall have been well cleared, fenced, and cultivated for two 
 or three years, it will be laid down for several years into 
 pasture, to which the soil and climate are so well adapted : 
 land, thus treated, instead of one sheep to four or five acres, 
 which is the common power of unimproved natural pasture 
 in Australia, will maintain about four sheep per acre tlirough- 
 out the year, with no more dread of being overstocked in an 
 arid summer, as in Australia, than in an inclement winter, 
 as in Europe and America; so that, although a larger immi- 
 gration fund could be advantageously applied, if the Asso- 
 ciation possessed it, and other Colonists in New Zealand 
 contributed in like proportion, the immigration fund actually 
 determined on is sufficient to sustain a productive system of 
 rural economy. 
 
 Every purchaser will have the right (subject to the veto 
 of the Association) of nominating persons who shall be 
 assisted to emigrate, in proportion to the amount contri- 
 buted by his own purchase to the general immigration fund ; 
 and, if it be found practicable, some contribution towards the 
 expense of his passage and outfit will be required from each 
 immigrant, as well with a view to obtain the greatest number
 
 14 PRELIMINARY ARRANGEMENTS OF THE 
 
 of immigrants for a given expenditure, as to secure a better 
 class of labourers. 
 
 Town and suburban lands will be sold at higher prices 
 than rural land : but the funds derived from the sale thereof 
 will be expended for the same purposes, and in the same 
 proportions.* 
 
 Selection of So far as practicable, measures will be taken to send indi 
 
 colonists. viduals of every class and profession, iu those proportions in 
 
 which they ought to exist in a prosperous colonial community. 
 
 The Association retain, and will carefully exercise, a 
 power of selection among all those who may apply for per- 
 mission to emigrate to their Settlement, either as purchasers, 
 or as emigrants requiring assistance. They will do so with 
 the view of insuring, as far as possible, that none but persons 
 of good character, as well as members of the Church of Eng- 
 land, shall form part of the population, at least in its first 
 stage ; so that the Settlement may begin its existence in a 
 healthy moral atmosphere. 
 
 Mode of se- The peculiarity of the method of the selection of land 
 lecting land, adopted in this Settlement, consists in allowing every pur- 
 chaser of an order for rural land to select the quantity men- 
 tioned in his land order, in whatever part of tlip surveyed 
 territory he may please, assisted by an accurate chart, which 
 will be made as rapidly as circumstances will permit, repre- 
 senting the natural features, the quality of the soil, and the 
 main lines of road. 
 
 Certain rules as to position and figure, embodied in the 
 instructions to the Surveyor, and framed with a view to pre- 
 vent individuals from monopolising more than a certain pro- 
 portion of road or river frontage, must be observed in each 
 selection. 
 
 But it is not the intention of the Association to divide the 
 whole or any portion of the territory to be colonized (except 
 the sites of tire capital and other towns, and a small quantity 
 of suburban land adjoining each town site) into sections of 
 regular size and figure, which has been the system generally 
 pursued in other Settlements. 
 
 Every selection will be effected by the owner of the land 
 order communicating to the Chief Surveyor a description of 
 the spot on which he wishes his section to be marked out. 
 
 If this selection shall not violate the regulations as to po- 
 sition and figure, and if the area included shall be equal to 
 the amount of land stated in the land order, the section will 
 be immediately marked on the chart, and a surveyor will be 
 sent as soon as possible to mark it on the ground. 
 
 * See page 20, Article X.
 
 SETTLEMENT OF CANTERBURY. 15 
 
 The right of priority of selection ntnong the first hody of 
 Colonists will be determined in some equitable manner, 
 which shall be agreed to by the Association and the pur- 
 chasers. But, after this first body shall have had an oppor- 
 tunity of selecting their land, every purchaser of a land order 
 will be entitled to select any sun-eyed land to the amount of his 
 order, which may be unselected at the time of his application. 
 
 The last peculiar feature of the economy of this Settle- Allotment 
 rneut which deserves notice, is the system according to of pastoral 
 which the pasture of such land as may from time to time re- ran ses. 
 main unsold within the limits of the Settlement is to be dis- 
 tributed. 
 
 Pastoral ranges will be allotted to purchasers of freehold 
 land in the Settlement, the selection of whichshall be deter 
 mined in an order of priority similar to that which will ob- 
 tain in the case of freehold purchases, and according to the 
 following regulations. 
 
 Every purchaser of rural land will be entitled to demand 
 from the Agent of the Association a twelvemonths' lease of so 
 much of the surveyed and unappropriated land as shall not 
 exceed five times the number of acres which he shall have 
 purchased, at a rent of twopence per acre, paid in advance. 
 This lease will be renewable from year to year on the same 
 terms. The pastoral ranges thus held on lease will, how- 
 ever, not be withdrawn from the market during the twelve- 
 month, but may be purchased like any other lots. The 
 leaseholder will be entitled to thirty days' notice of the iuten- 
 tion of any other person to become a purchaser, in order 
 that he may, if he wishes it, buy the land himself before that 
 period has expired. 
 
 The above regulations will apply only while there shall be 
 any portion of the surveyed territory which is unsold, and 
 unappropriated for pasturage. All the unsurveyed land 
 (while any shall remain unsurveyed), and any surveyed land 
 which may remain unappropriated according to the above 
 regulations, will be held in common for purposes of pasturage 
 by all the land purchasers in the Settlement who shall not 
 have obtained special ranges, and subject to such rules and 
 bye-laws as shall be determined upon by the Association 
 after consultation with the Colonists. 
 
 With reference to the contribution for the establishment Ecclesias- 
 and endowment of Ecclesiastical and Educational institutions, tical and 
 the Association feel that it is unnecessary here to enter into educational 
 a discussion of the utility of providing a fund for these pur- 
 poses. The purchasers of land in this Settlement will con- 
 sist entirely of members of the Church of England; and it 
 is supposed that few of these will question the desirableness
 
 16 PRELIMINARY ARRANGEMENTS OF THE 
 
 of making adequate provision for the building a sufficient 
 number of Churches and schools, and maintaining, in its 
 complete form, a branch of the ministry of the Church, pro- 
 portionate to the lay population of the Settlement. 
 
 That an excessive provision for this purpose is not made, 
 the following calculation will show 
 
 Before going iuto it, the Association wish distinctly to 
 point out what is applicable, indeed, to the whole subject, 
 but peculiarly so to the present branch of it, that such 
 anticipations and calculations are at present wholly hypo- 
 thetical. They are fully aware that, before they could be 
 realized, the approval and sanction of various authorities 
 must be obtained ; without which, indeed, even if they could 
 proceed, they would be quite unwilling to do so. But it has 
 been their object in these remarks to hold out to view the 
 idea of a Colonial Settlement complete in all its parts ; and 
 they feel most strongly that such an idea would fall very 
 bhort of that description unless it included, and that not 
 as a vague generality, but in that amount of details which 
 is here presented, the element which has just been men- 
 tioned. 
 
 Assuming, by way of hypothesis, that, out of the territory 
 of one million acres to be allotted to this Settlement, two 
 hundred thousand will be sold in the first year or two, and 
 the remainder appropriated to the leasehold pasturages, the 
 Association will have at its disposal two funds, each a little 
 exceeding 200,(MX>/. ; one appropriated to immigration pur- 
 poses, the other to Ecclesiastical and Educational establish- 
 ments and endowments. 
 
 The former fund, under the system of partial contributions 
 to passages, instead of defraying the whole cost of them, 
 which the Association intends to adopt, will probably enable 
 the Association to forward 15,000 persons to the Settle- 
 ment. 
 
 The Association, considering the large surface (nearly 
 equal to that of the county of Norfolk) over which the popu- 
 lation will be distributed, calculates that twenty Clergymen, 
 and as many schoolmasters, will not be more than are requi- 
 site to establish and maintain that high religious and edu- 
 cational character, which the Association hope, with the 
 Divine blessing, that this Settlement will possess. 
 
 Assuming that the Churches, parsonage- houses, and 
 schools will be constructed of wood upon foundations of 
 stone carried to a height of three or four feet above the 
 ground, the following will be an approximate estimate of 
 their cost :
 
 SETTLEMENT OF CANTERBURY. 17 
 
 20 Churches, at l.OOO/. each ^0,000 
 
 20 Parsonage-houses and Glebes, at -VX)/. each . 10,000 
 
 20 Schools, at 1 < WV. each 2,000 
 
 A College and Chapel 6,000 
 
 Residences for a Bishop, the Principal of the Col- 
 lege, and an Archdeacon 3,000 
 
 Total . . . .41,000 
 
 Deducting this sum from the original fond of 200.000/., 
 159,000/. will remain. The interest derived from this sum 
 will probably hare to defray the following stipends: 
 
 To a Bishop 1,000 
 
 To an Archdeacon 600 
 
 20 Clergymen, v00/. each 4,000 
 
 - ohoolmasters, 70/. each 1,400 
 
 Total, per annum . . 7,000 
 
 To carry on our hypothesis, if 80,000/. invested in the 
 British funds, yield three and a half per cent, interest, and 
 79,000/. invested in Colonial securities, yield six per cent, 
 interest, an annual income of 7.540/. will be derived from 
 the whole. 
 
 This excess of estimated income over estimated expendi- 
 ture, will appear only too small, if the indispensable expenses 
 of management and the possibility of losses be taken into 
 consideration. 
 
 A proportionate calculation might be made on the hypo 
 thesis of any greater quantity of land than 200,000 acres 
 being sold, up to that included within the whole territory. 
 
 The members of the Association have engaged in their 
 present undertaking in the hope that the knowledge of the 
 principles and practice of colonization, which the history 
 of modern British Settlements is calculated to impart, may 
 enable them to secure the proposed Settlement against some 
 of the main evils which have impeded the prosperity of other 
 Colonies. 
 
 In conclusion, it is desirable a short statement should be Progress of 
 made of the position in which the Association now stand as 
 regards their resources, and of their intended course of 
 action. They are about to obtain immediately a Charter of 
 Incorporation, and a certain sum of money has been placed 
 at their disposal, as an advance repayable out of the funds 
 which will accrue from the sales of land, when they shall be 
 enabled to offer land for sale, in a specific locality, and to a 
 specific amount. That sura they propose to expend, after 
 providing for the very small necessary expenses of their 
 machinery in this country, in providing the arrangements 
 " c2
 
 18 PROCEEDINGS OF THE 
 
 which will be required to prepare the Settlement for the 
 first body of Colonists. Mr. Thomas, a gentleman who has 
 great local experience of New Zealand, and who is emi- 
 nently well qualified in other respects, has been appointed 
 Agent and Chief Surveyor, and will go out to New Zealand 
 on the third of July next. His instructions will be to select, 
 in concert with the local authorities above-mentioned,* the 
 best site for the new Settlement, which may be obtain- 
 able at his arrival. He will take out instructions from 
 the Secretary of State to the Governor to extinguish the 
 native title (should any exist) to such site, and to facili- 
 tate, by every possible means, his further proceedings. 
 When the site shall have been obtained, he will write 
 word home to that effect, and immediately commence his 
 survey, and other preliminary operations. During the first 
 year it is calculated that a large proportion of the whole 
 territory will be surveyed, and rendered traversaMe by the 
 formation of main roads ; and he will also be empowered to 
 erect such buildings as may appear indispensable to the 
 convenience of the first Colonists ; in the performance of 
 this task, however, he must be limited, not only by the time, 
 but by the amount of funds at his disposal. It is impossible 
 to state accurately before-hand how much those funds will 
 enable him to do ; and, therefore, all that the Association 
 can guarantee is, that they shall be, so far as lies in their, 
 and (as they entirely believe) in Mr. Thomas's, power, 
 expended economically and effectually, in improving the 
 Settlement, and in promoting the interests of the Colonists. 
 
 In the meantime, as about a year will probably intervene 
 before the Association can hear of Mr. Thomas's final selec- 
 tion of a site, and commencement of preparations, they will 
 be employed in collecting a body of intending Colonists, 
 who may be ready to purchase laud when the decisive intel- 
 ligence shall arrive, and in making the necessary arrange- 
 ments preparatory to their departure. 
 
 It is extremely desirable, therefore, that all persons wish- 
 ing to join the first body of Colonists, should place them- 
 selves in immediate communication with the Association, 
 and take, as far as possible, a part in their proceedings." 
 
 "41, Charing Cross, 
 1st of June, 1848." 
 
 " P.S. Since the publication of the iirst edition, Mr. 
 Thomas has sailed in the Bernicia for New Zealand, carrying 
 with him the necessary instructions, as well as despatches 
 from tlie Secretary for the Colonies, to the Governor of New 
 Zealand." 
 
 " 8lh of July, 18-ls." 
 
 The Governor and the Bishop of New Zealand.
 
 CANTERBURY ASSOCIATION. 19 
 
 An appendix to the pamphlet consists of two parts, 
 A and B. The first part is the following 
 
 "Plan of' Colonization mjreed tipfin between the Canterbury 
 Association <ind the Xcw Zealand Company." 
 
 "I. The New Zealand Company to reserve as undermentioned, as 
 
 of the proposed Settlement of Canterbury, a tract of about 
 
 one million (1,000,000) acres, in such spot as may be selected by 
 
 the agent of the Association, in the Southern Province of New 
 
 Zealand. 
 
 II. The said tract to be so reserved during a period of ten years 
 from the date of receiving intelligence that such tract, selected as 
 above mentioned, is in possession of the Company ; provided that 
 within six months from such date laud to the value of 300,000/. be 
 sold, and that during each year from the said date there be sold at 
 least one-tenth part of the land remaining unsold at the commence- 
 ment of that year; failing which, the Company to be released from 
 further reservation of the tract for the purposes of the Association. 
 
 III. The- land, while reserved as above mentioned, to be sold 
 exclusively to the Association or persons recommended by it, or by 
 a Local Committee, mentioned in paragraph XVIII below ; the prire 
 and the special contributions attached thereto to be paid ill full, 
 before the issue of an order for the land. 
 
 IV. A general survey of the block, showing its natural feature*; 
 such as rivers, lakes, mountains, and whatever else constitutes a 
 permanent natural landmark, distinguishing laud clear of timber 
 from forest land, noting the various qualities of the soil, the adapta- 
 tion of the land to different purposes, the best lines of main road, 
 with other details to be specified in the Chief Surveyor's instructions; 
 to be commenced as soon as the land is acquired by the Company 
 for the purposes of the Association, and to be carried on as rapidly 
 as possible. A Chart of the surveyed land to be kept in the Land- 
 Office for general reference. 
 
 V. A block of about one thousand (1000) acres to be selected as 
 the site of the Capital. The lines of the principal streets, squares, 
 &c., the sites of all public buildings, parks, &c.. required for the 
 convenience of the future inhabitants,' to be marked out. and such 
 buildings as may be absolutely necessary for the temporary accom- 
 modation of the first settlers to be erected ; the remainder of the 
 block to be divided into quarter-acre sections, as Town Land. 
 
 VI. Adjoining the site of the Capital, a quantity of laud not 
 exceeding one thousand (1000) acres, to be selected and divided 
 into ten-acre sections, as Suburban Land. 
 
 VII. Power to be given to the Agent of the Association (or to the 
 Chief Surveyor for the Settlement) to select blocks of about five 
 hundred (000) acres each as the sites of other towns, and to cause
 
 20 PROCEEDINGS OF THE 
 
 them to be laid out on the principle observed in laying out the site 
 of tbe capital, witb similar reserves of Suburban Land, not exceeding 
 five hundred (500) acres eacb. 
 
 VIII. The purchase of the surface to include in every case coal 
 and all other minerals whatever, granted to the Company by the 
 Crown, and lying underneath the allotment purchased. But with a 
 view to the general interests of the future population, and to obtain- 
 ing more ample funds for carrying out the objects of the Association, 
 (lie Company to have power to reserve from sale any block or blocks 
 of laud, not exceeding in the whole five thousand (5000) acres, in 
 which coal or metallic ores shall be ascertained to exist, and which 
 shall not have been appropriated to public or private purposes ; 
 such land and minerals as above-mentioned to be afterwards appro- 
 priated and dealt with in such manner as the Company and the 
 Association may by mutual agreement determine ; it bei7ig under- 
 stood that the sums produced by such laud and minerals are to be 
 applied to the same purposes, and in the same proportion, as the 
 sums paid upon other lauds. 
 
 IX. No order to be issued for a smaller quantity of rural land in 
 the Settlement, than fifty (50) acres. General regulations to be 
 laid down in the Chief Surveyor's instructions with regard to the 
 tigure and position of sections, to be observed in every selection, 
 whether for purchase or for lease. 
 
 X. The price of Rural Laud to be, per acre . . . 10 
 Of each quarter-acre section in the Capital . . 434 
 Of each quarter-acre section in other Towns . . 1134 
 Of each ten-acre Suburban section adjoining the 
 
 Capital 25 
 
 Of each ten-acre Suburban section adjoining other 
 
 Towns 13 "G 8 
 
 XI. Each purchaser to make the following contributions, in ad- 
 dition to the price of the land for which he may apply namely : 
 
 1. To the Fund for Ecclesiastical and Educational purposes, to be 
 
 vested in the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel, 
 (until the Association shall have obtained a Charter of In- 
 corporation,) a sum equal to twice the amount of the price 
 of his land. 
 
 2. To the Fund for Immigration purposes, to be vested in the 
 
 Company, (until the Association shall have obtained a 
 Charter of Incorporation,) a sum equal to twice the amount 
 of the price of his land. 
 
 3. To the Fund for defraying the expenses of the Association in 
 
 England, of the Survey Department, of road-making, of build- 
 ings, and other necessary objects which may not be properly 
 chargeable to the other Funds, and the expenses incurred by 
 the Company for the special purposes of this Association, to 
 be vested in the Company, (until the Association shall have
 
 CANTERBURY ASSOCIATION. 21 
 
 obtained a Charter of lucorporation,) a sum equal to the 
 amount of the price of his laud. 
 
 XII. The mode iu which the above Trusts shall be from time to 
 time administered, to be left wholly to the Association. But till 
 such time as the Association shall obtain a Charter of Incorporation, 
 the said Trusts to be executively carried out by the Society for the 
 Propagation of the Gospel aiid the Company respectively, in order 
 to relieve the members of the Association from personal responsi- 
 bility. When the Association shall bave obtained a Charter, the 
 whole price of the land sold, with the contributions attached to it, 
 to be paid to, and administered by, the Association, subject to the 
 liabilities which it shall have incurred to the Company, in respect 
 both of repayment of advances and of price of land. 
 
 XIII. The priority of choice among the owners of land-orders 
 sold before the expiration of the six months mentioned in paragraph 
 II. to be determined iu such manner as the Association, after con- 
 sultation with the purchasers, shall think fit. 
 
 XIV. Until such owners of land-orders shall have exercised their 
 right of selection, a day to be fixed, within a reasonable time after 
 the arrival at the Port of the Settlement of each vessel chartered 
 either by the Company or by the Association, for receiving applica- 
 tions for sections from all owners of land-orders who may have 
 made their selections, according to their respective rights of priority 
 of choice. The boundary lines of each section, so selected, to be 
 marked on the Chart, provided that the general regulations as to 
 figure and position of sections be observed. 
 
 XV. But after opportunity shall have been given to the first 
 body of purchasers above described to exercise their right of selec- 
 tion, all owners of laud-orlers to be permitted to select the quan- 
 tities of laud specified in their orders, according to priority of appli- 
 cation for particular sections at the Land-Office in the Settlement. 
 Every section thus selected to be measured off, without any charge 
 to the purchaser, within a reasonable time after its selection. 
 
 XVI. V.\ fry purchaser of rural laud in the Settlement to have a 
 right (according to a priority of choice, to be determined in the 
 same manner as iu the ca.se of freehold purchases) 10 demand a 
 lease for a year, with the right of renewing it each year until the 
 expiration of the ten years above mentioned, at the rate of twopence 
 (2d.) per acre, of a quantity of land, not exceeding five times the 
 quantity of bis purchase, for the purpose of pasturage, until the 
 whole of the surveyed land appropriated to this Settlement shall 
 have been leased or sold ; provided always, that at any lime during 
 the continuance of such lease, any part of the land so leased may 
 be sold, according to the general arrangements now made; but pro- 
 vided also that the person holding such lease shall have thirty days' 
 notice of the intention of any other person to become a purchaser, 
 in order that, if he wish it, he may buy the land himself; such rent
 
 22 PROCEEDINGS OF THE 
 
 to be applied to the some purposes, and in the same proportions, as 
 the money produced by lands sold. 
 
 XVII. The unsurveyed and unappropriated land of the Settlement 
 to be held in common by the purchasers of freehold land therein, 
 subject to such regulations as shall be framed by the Agent of the 
 Association, after consultation with the purchasers. 
 
 XVIII. Persons in the Colony, who may be approved of by a 
 Local Committee appointed by the Association, to be permitted to 
 purchase land in the Settlement, on the same terms as those on 
 which it shall be sold in England. 
 
 XIX. The foregoing plan to be altered in detail (if it be found 
 necessary or expedient) by the Company and the Association con- 
 currently." 
 
 The concluding portion of the Appendix contains 
 copies of a correspondence between Lord Lyttelton, on 
 the part of the Association, and Earl Grey, the Secre- 
 tary of State for the Colonies. 
 
 Lord Lyttelton's first letter, dated May 10, 1848, 
 informs Earl Grey of the formation of the Canterbury 
 Association, and of the negotiations into which they 
 have entered with the New Zealand Company for the 
 acquisition of a million of acres of land, and for the 
 advance of funds for their preliminary operations, and 
 requests that his lordship 
 
 " will address to the Governor of New Zealand such a communi- 
 cation as may facilitate the accomplishment of the object for which 
 Captain Thomas is dispatched." 
 
 After noticing that 
 
 " the Association, as at present advised, are inclined to consider 
 that the Wuirarapa Plains offer the best site for their intended 
 Settlement, and one which they hope there is a fair prospect of their 
 being able to secure," 
 
 but that Captain Thomas will have discretionary 
 power to select any other available site, Lord Lyttelton 
 thus concludes: 
 
 " The earnest request of the Association to your Lordship is, that 
 you would be pleased to instruct Sir George Grey, should there be 
 no objection to such a course, in the first instance, if possible, to 
 acquire from the natives with the least possible delay, for the Agent 
 of the New Zealand Company and for the purposes of the Associa-
 
 CANTERBURY ASSOCIATION. 28 
 
 tion, about a million of acres nt or near the Wairarapa Plains, should 
 the Agent decide in favour of that locality, on as favourable terms as 
 may reasonably be obtained ; or, failing this, a similar amount in 
 any other port of the unappropriated lauds in the Colony which the 
 Agent may fix upon. The Association trust also, that your Lordship 
 will instruct Sir George Grey to afford to their Agent, during the 
 period which he must employ in the surveys and other preparatory 
 arrangements for the reception of Colonists, every assistance in his 
 power.' 1 
 
 Earl Grey's reply, dated May 18, 1848, expresses 
 satisfaction at hearing of the formation of the project, 
 and interest in its success. He says: 
 
 "The Governor of New Zealand shall receive my instructions to 
 afford the Association all the assistance in his power towards 
 securing the land which may be required, and shall be placed for 
 that pin-pose iu communication with the gentleman whom the 
 Association have selected for their Agent, as soon as the latter may 
 arrive in the Colony. He shall be directed to use his best endeavours 
 to obtain available land to the amount specified in your Lordship's 
 letter, and to extinguish the native title to it, if any be found to 
 exist in such locality as the Agent shall point out to him." 
 
 Lord Lyttelton, in a second letter, dated May 23, 
 1848, makes two applications to the Secretary of State. 
 The first is for the grant of a Charter of Incorporation, 
 so as to avoid the evils of divided responsibility and 
 conflicting direction, involved in the assistance which, 
 without a Charter, it had been necessary to obtain from 
 the New Zealand Company and the Society for the 
 Propagation of the Gospel, and so as to enable the 
 Association to act as an independent body. 
 
 "The second point," says Lord Lyttelton, "on which the Associa- 
 tion wish me to make application to your Lordship, is even move im- 
 portant, and relates to the question of Government for the Colonists. 
 
 " In an interview which Mr. Godley and I had with your Lordship 
 on the 17th hist, at the Colonial Office, and which we had requested 
 for the purpose of ascertaining whether an application from us for the 
 grant of a Charter, generally similar to those given to the Companies 
 who founded the ecrly American Colonies, would be entertained, 
 your Lordship stated that you did not think such a grant would, 
 under existing circumstances, be possible or advisable, but that you 
 would be prepared (if the Canterbury Settlement were founded in a 
 part of New Zealand where no difficulty would be interposed by the
 
 24 PROCEEDINGS OF THE 
 
 vicinity of otber Settlements, or the presence of the natives, or any 
 other considerations) to advise Her Majesty to exercise in our favour 
 the power conferred on Her by the New Zealand Government Act, 
 and to constitute the Canterbury Settlement into a distinct Province, 
 under the terms of that Act. Our report of that interview was 
 received by the Association with the greatest satisfaction ; they are 
 convinced that if the expectation thus held out be fulfilled, a most 
 important stimulus will be given to the Colonization of the territory 
 which is to be the scene of their operations, and that they will be 
 enabled to carry out their views in a far more complete and satisfac- 
 tory manner than they could otherwise anticipate. They believe, 
 moreover, that the care with which the first inhabitants of the pro- 
 posed Settlement will be selected, and the unity of opinion and sen- 
 timent which upon many important topics is expected to prevail 
 among them, will give to them peculiar advantages and facilities in 
 the exercise of the privileges with which they may be entrusted. 
 
 " I have therefore to lay before your Lordship the earnest request 
 of the Association, that the Governor of New Zealand may be 
 empowered to form the site of the Canterbury Settlement into a 
 separate Province, subject to the conditions above-mentioned, as 
 specified by your Lordship." 
 
 Earl Grey's reply, dated May 31, 1848, states that 
 he sees no objection to the proposed Charter of Incor- 
 poration, and will give his immediate consideration to 
 the draft of such a Charter, which the Association may 
 lay before him. As to the second point, he says he 
 will instruct the Governor of New Zealand to report 
 whether the district selected may be capable of erection 
 into a distinct Province, as recommended, and if so, 
 what boundaries can be conveniently assigned to it; 
 suggests that the Agent of the Association should com- 
 municate his choice immediately to the Governor for the 
 purpose of such report; and expresses a hope that a 
 district may be fixed upon which shall unite such capa- 
 bility with other favourable conditions. 
 
 " In transmitting," he concludes, " copies of this correspondence 
 to the Governor, I will not fail to express to him the desire I enter- 
 tain as far as possible to meet the wishes of the Association, as I am 
 convinced that the success of this undertaking will be attended with 
 very great advantage both to New Zealand and to this country." 
 
 During the interval which must necessarily elapse 
 before the receipt of Mr. Thomas's report, that he has
 
 CANTERBURY ASSOCIATION. 25 
 
 selected, according to his instructions, an appropriate 
 site, and has commenced the work of surveying and other 
 preparations, the Association are prepared to receive 
 applications from intending purchasers of land, from 
 labouring people recommended by such purchasers for 
 free passage, and from persons anxious to obtain any 
 of the proposed Clerical or Educational appointments. 
 But, of course, the reply to these applications can only 
 be conditional on the receipt of a favourable report 
 from the Agent; as although there is no reason to sup- 
 pose that anything will occur to prevent such a report 
 from being made, yet, if it should not be made, no land 
 can be sold, and no funds can accrue for the religious, 
 educational, or immigrational purposes. 
 
 It is, however, important that those who intend to 
 join the first body of Colonists should at once come 
 forward, in order that they may be consulted in all the 
 details of arrangement for their departure, voyage, 
 disembarkation, and location. It is also important that 
 they should become well acquainted one with the other, 
 and form themselves, to a certain degree, into an 
 organized society, possessing an esprit de corps, and 
 devoting their whole time to the object for which they 
 shall have associated themselves, even before the re- 
 ceipt of the expected intelligence. Twelve months is by 
 no mean* too long a space of time for the preparations 
 which evt-ry good Colonist individually, as well as the 
 body of Colonists collectively, ought to make for the new 
 life. A few of these preparations are described in the 
 concluding Chapter of this work: but many others will 
 doubtless suggest themselves to every one who has, after 
 mature deliberation, made up his mind to colonize. 
 
 The swallows, before they wing their flight, at the 
 approach of winter, to a more sunny clime, often col- 
 lect and appear to consult together respecting their 
 important migration. So ought the Canterbury Colo- 
 ni-t- to form themselves into one flock, with one mind, 
 ready in every way to depart immediately on the re- 
 D
 
 26 THE OLD ENGLISH 
 
 ceipt of the Agent's report. They ought not to become 
 first acquainted with each other on the voyage, or after 
 landing in the Colony. 
 
 But in order to this end, it is necessary that some of 
 the bolder and more determined among those who pro- 
 pose to go should be the first to declare their intention, 
 as many persons shrink from doing so, until they know 
 that they will be countenanced, by others of the same 
 rank in life as themselves, in what has lately come to 
 be considered rather as a disgraceful expatriation than 
 as taking a share in the founding of a nation. In 
 recent times, it appears to be supposed that no one 
 would go to a Colony who could manage to live de- 
 cently in the old country. But those who are still 
 impressed with this belief should read the following 
 extract from a former work on New Zealand, which 
 thus describes " the Old English spirit of colonizing:" 
 
 " One of the most illustrious of Englishmen spoke of the planta- 
 tion of a Colony as an ' heroic work." In such works, the great men 
 of Bacon's time delighted to engage ; and for many years afterwards, 
 the spirit of Colonizing held possession of the highest ranks in this 
 country. Nearly all our old Colonies were projected and founded by 
 men of the first station in point of property, birth, or personal 
 qualities. The author, he may be termed, of British Colonization in 
 America, was Sir Walter Raleigh ; not to say Queen Elizabeth, who 
 took a personal interest in the subject. Virginia was founded by the 
 Earls of Salisbury, Suffolk, Southampton, Pembroke, Lincoln, 
 Dorset, Exeter, and Montgomery, Viscount Lisle, the Lords Howard 
 de Walden, Bishop of Bath and Wells, Zouche, Delawarr, Monteagle, 
 Ewre, Sheffield, Grey, Chandos, Compton, Petre, Stanhope, and 
 Carew ; not to mention a great number of the most eminent gentry. 
 Maryland was founded by Cecilius, Lord Baltimore. The Colony of 
 Massachusetts was founded by Sir Henry Rosewell, Sir John Young, 
 and their associates. William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, 
 embarked a fortune in the undertaking, and obtained his Charter, as 
 is therein set forth, ' in consideration of the divers services of his 
 father, Sir William Penn, and particularly his conduct, courage, and 
 discretion, in that signal victory fought and obtained against the 
 Dutch fleet in the year 1665.' Carolina was founded by Lord High 
 Chancellor Clarendon, the Duke of Albemarle, Earl Craven, Lord 
 Berkeley, the then Chancellor of the Exchequer, Lord Ashly, and 
 Sir George Carteret, Vice-Chamberlain; and the Constitution of
 
 SPIRIT OF COLONIZING. 27 
 
 government lor this 1'rovincc was drawn up by Jolm Locke. 
 Georgia was founded by Yiscouut Percival, arid several otlier persons 
 of condition. It would be easy to multiply such examples ; but 
 these are sufficient to justify the assertion, that it was once a 
 practice with the leading men of this country to take an active part 
 iu the Colonization of distant lands. And the fashion was a good 
 oue for England."* 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Capabilities of Xcio Zealand Extent and Position Communica- 
 tion with England Mountains Lakes Resemblance to Italy 
 Mineral Weatth Mirers Face of the Country Harbours 
 Climate J'uyctation Strong Winds Salubrity. 
 
 IN considering whether a sound judgment has been 
 exercised by the Canterbury Association, while deter- 
 mining which portion of the British empire should be 
 the scene of their comprehensive operations, it is satis- 
 factory to peruse the following recorded opinions of 
 different persons, authors, travellers, eminent states- 
 men, and others, as to the excellence of the field 
 which exists in New Zealand for a vast amount of 
 British Colonization, and as to the positive ad- 
 vantages which that country holds out to the intend- 
 ing Colonist. 
 
 The Reverend Doctor James Dunmore Lang, Prin- 
 cipal of the Australian College and Senior Minister of 
 the Church of Scotland in New South Wales, after 
 sixteen years' residence in New South Wales, during 
 which time he had made five voyages to England and 
 back, published Four Letters on Neiv Zealand in 1839. 
 In this work he says: 
 
 ' Unquestionable as are the facilities for Colonization in Southern 
 Australia, as well as in New South Wales, they are not to be com- 
 pared with those which New Zealand at this moment affords. In 
 one word, whatever may be the destinies of the Australian Colonies, 
 
 * ' The British Colonization of New Zealand.' Published for the 
 New /enlaiid Association by John W. Parker. 1887 . Chap. I., p. 1.
 
 28 OPINIONS AS TO THE 
 
 T am confident that if colonized on right principles New Zealand will 
 one day be the Great Britain of the Southern Hemisphere." p. llo. 
 
 J. Montefiore, one of the leading merchants of Syd- 
 ney, after visiting New Zealand, was examined before 
 a Committee of the Lords on the 6th of April, 1838: 
 
 " I have always compared New Zealand, and still do so, to be 
 just as Great Britain is to the rest of Europe, the great country of 
 that part of the world." Lords' Report, 1838, p. 00. 
 
 Captain Fitzroy, afterwards Governor of New 
 Zealand, was asked in the same Committee: 
 
 " Are you not of opinion, taking into consideration the position 
 of that country, and the fertility of the soil, and the salubrity of its 
 climate, that it must grow into great importance ? 
 
 "Answer. Certainly; it corresponds in that hemisphere to Great 
 Britain in this hemisphere. It must go on holding out temptations 
 to settlers of all descriptions ; it is quite impossible it should remain 
 in its present state." Lords' Report, 1838, p. 174. 
 
 Mr. Walter Brodie, who has 
 
 <l travelled over the greatest part of New Zealand with the view 
 of ascertaining, among its other resources available for colonization, 
 the natural products of the islands," says : " No spot in the world 
 aftbrds so wide a field for enterprise, or ofl'ers the same combination 
 of advantages to the English settler." 
 
 And again : 
 
 " I have seen nearly the whole of the British Colonies, as well as 
 the States of North and South America ; and I here conscientiously 
 and honestly state that I have never seen any country to equal New 
 Zealand." * 
 
 A long string might be adduced of similar opinions 
 from those who have visited the Pacific and New 
 Zealand. 
 
 The Hon. Francis Baring, who has travelled through 
 Cuba, Mexico, the United States, and Canada, was 
 asked by the Lords' Committee: 
 
 " Should not you think, considering the abundance of timber, the 
 position of the island, the harbours, and the climate, that in all 
 probability it will be the great seat of naval power and commercial 
 importance in those seas ? 
 
 * ' Remarks on the Past and. Present titatc of New Zealand, 
 &c., the result of Jive years' residence in the Colony' By Walter 
 Brodie, Esq. Whittaker & Co., 1840.
 
 CAPABILITIES OF NEW ZEALAND. 29 
 
 " Answer. I liave not the slightest doubt of it, if it bad been 
 originally a question of planting a Colony, that it would have been 
 very preferable to Australia or any other part of the world. ' It is 
 not only preferable to Australia, but it is very important to Aus- 
 tralia: for in case of war, the possession of it by a foreign country 
 would be very inconvenient to us ; us the best course home from 
 New South Wales is through Cook's Strait, round Cape Horn; the 
 wind would be more favourable for that voyage ; therefore the pos- 
 i of Cook's Strait is most important to us, holding as we do 
 New Holland ; and it is important as a place for ships to touch at." 
 Lnnh" Report, 1838, p. LV). 
 
 The late Lord Ashburton stated, at a public dinner 
 on the 13th of February, 1841, given to Lord John 
 Russell: 
 
 " The position of the New Zealand islands on the map, their 
 climate, fertility, abundant harbours, surrounded with the seas most 
 suited to the whale fisheries, and, above all, the character of the 
 native population, led him to anticipate that these islands were likely 
 to become? the great seat of wealth and naval power, in short, 
 to be in the Southern Ocean what the British Isles were to the 
 Northern." 
 
 The Earl of Devon said : 
 
 " It was his lot to have first called attention in the House of 
 Peers to the Colony of New Zealand, and to have taken an active 
 part on the subject, in conjunction with his noble friends then 
 present, Lords Petre and Ashburton ; and he could truly say that the 
 result of the inquiry had been fully to satisfy the House of Lords 
 of the importance of New Zealand as a Colonial Dependency of this 
 country; and that it offered a fair field of enterprise for the Colonial 
 spirit of the country." 
 
 Lord Eliot (now Earl of St. Germains) said : 
 
 " He had felt, that the Colonization of New Zealand afforded an 
 opportunity of establishing our mutual prosperity upon a solid 
 foundation ; that it afforded an opportunity of promoting the greatest 
 amount of emigration at the smallest possible expense ;" and that he 
 was " deeply impressed with the importance of the Colonization of 
 Nrw Zealand, as a field for British labour and British capital." 
 
 Mr. II. G-. "Ward (now Secretary of the Admiralty) 
 said: 
 
 " New Zealand, the Queen of her own Hemisphere, the Britain of 
 the South, has been added to the domain of the Crown without a 
 violence, &e." ( Extracted front Report of this Mvctiny, at pa</<'s 
 -15 niitl -Hi, AV/r Zcn/tutd Journal, vol. ii.) 
 D2
 
 30 OPINIONS AS TO THE 
 
 In a petition presented by Mr. Masterman to the 
 House of Commons, in March, 1845, and which was 
 signed by 115 of the leading Merchants, Bankers, and 
 Traders of the City of London, the following passages 
 occur: 
 
 " Your petitioners regarded with equal interest and satisfaction 
 the establishment of British Settlements on the islands of New 
 Zealand, and the subsequent declaration of British Sovereignty 
 therein ; anticipating with confidence, from the geographical posi- 
 tion of those islands, and their peculiar advantages of soil, climate, 
 and natural productions, combined with the character of the native 
 population, that their possession could not fail to ensure great 
 national and commercial benefit, and that they would, in a com- 
 paratively short period, rank among the most valuable appendages 
 
 of the British Crown." " They entertain a confident belief 
 
 that, aided by the boundless capital and redundant labour of the 
 mother-country, the magnificent islands which have so recently 
 been annexed to the British Crown are calculated, at no distant 
 period, to become important sources of national wealth and pros- 
 perity, and to increase the strength, influence, and stability of the 
 Empire." 
 
 Lord John Russell said, in the House of Commons, 
 on the 14th of March, 1845: 
 
 " I believe that New Zealand, if its resources are properly culti- 
 vated and if it is rightly governed, is destined to have a great influ- 
 ence on that part of the world. I believe that the 18,000 or 20,000 
 Englishmen who are there are destined in all probability to be the 
 progenitors of the governors of a great part of that Hemisphere." 
 
 In a subsequent debate of the same Session on the 
 subject, which occupied the House of Commons three 
 nights, the 17th, 18th, and 19th of June, Lord John 
 Russell again referred to 
 
 " the glorious destiny to which he believed New Zealand to be 
 called ;" 
 
 And concluded by urging the House to 
 
 " assist in laying the foundation of a noble Colony, a Colony to 
 form a branch of this mighty Empire, and in future times to extend 
 the English language, English institutions, English love of liberty, 
 and the English name over distant regions of the globe." 
 
 Sir Robert Peel, then First Lord of the Treasury, 
 said, in this debate:
 
 ( AI'AKILITIES OF NEW ZEALAND. 31 
 
 I willingly admit tlmt the interests of that Colony are recom- 
 nieiulcil to us by many considerations. I look at the extent of that 
 Colony, at its line of coast, at the quantity of land in it capable of 
 cultivation and improvement; I look, above all, at its position and 
 importance wlu'ch it has acquired by the events which have 
 been passing in the Pacific, and by the opening of the trade with 
 China. I agree with the noble lord (Lord John Russell) that there 
 appears every probability, as far as we can form a judgment, that 
 that Colony, if its interests are duly regarded and its welfare fostered, 
 is destined to occupy a most important station in the world. 1 
 agree that its relation to this country is most important. Surveying 
 the unoccupied portion of the globe, I know of no part of that globe 
 more calculated to afford a profitable field for employment to the 
 superabundant population of this country." 
 
 Mr. Benjamin Hawes, now Under- Secretary of State 
 for the Colonies, on the same occasion said: 
 
 " English interests, both domestic and colonial, became of im- 
 portance. The position of the islands, their capacity for trade, their 
 value as a "naval station, the climate, the soil, had attracted the 
 attention of capitalists at home. They had the power and the will 
 
 to force upon the Government the value of these islands." 
 
 " This must be conceded, that to the energy of the New Zealand 
 Company we owe the possession of these important islands, the 
 Southern England of future ages." 
 
 Sir Howard Douglas (formerly Governor of the 
 Ionian Islands, and at that time Member for Liver- 
 pool) said: 
 
 ' I do most fully admit the vast capacities and capabilities of the 
 New /ealaiid Islands, as rich and extensive fields for British Coloni- 
 zation." 
 
 Sir James Graham (then Secretary of State for the 
 Home Department) said: 
 
 ' 1 am far from underrating the great importance of the subject 
 we are now discussing, because 1 am deeply impressed with the 
 immense national importance of the Colony of New Zealand. When 
 I consider its peculiar position, the fertility of its soil, the excellence 
 of its climate, anil when I connect these advantages with our colonial 
 position generally, and with onr colonial trade, which is the founda- 
 tion of our naval supremacy ; moreover, when I remember the geo- 
 graphical position of these islands, placed, as was most truly said by 
 the honourable and learned gentleman who introduced this subject to 
 our notice, as the key of the traffic between the Pacific and the China
 
 32 OPINIONS AS TO THE 
 
 Seas, I do think that these islands constitute an appendage of great 
 value, whose position and maintenance are of primary importance to 
 the British Crown. I must also express my opinion, when I con- 
 sider the crowded multitudes within this narrow island, that every 
 prospect of successful Colonization, well regulated and ordered, is a 
 prospect conducive to the interests of the people of this country, and 
 affords hopes of future advantages by no means to he neglected. On 
 these grounds, therefore, I entirely concur in estimating very highly 
 the importance of these islands, and I concur also in an earnest de- 
 sire that their possession should he maintained." 
 
 Mr. Charles Buller (now President of the Poor Law- 
 Board) had introduced the subject in a masterly speech, 
 from which the following is an extract: 
 
 " I do not believe that there ever was a field on every account so 
 inviting to British Colonization as that presented by the islands of 
 New Zealand ; none, in truth, to which necessity, as well as policy, 
 so imperatively called us. With the one drawback of a long sea- 
 voyage, it seems to be the most available field for the capitalist and 
 emigrant within the whole extent of our Empire ; and it is the 
 quarter of the world in which it would appear to be most distinctly 
 the interest of Great Britain that a large community of its people 
 should he established. The extent of the islands comprises an area 
 almost identical with that of the United Kingdom ; and after making 
 allowance for lake, morass, and vast chains and groups of Alpine 
 mountains, I see that the Legislative Council of the Colony, in a 
 formal address to the Crown, states the total amount of available 
 laud to be not less than sixty millions of acres. It is no little 
 advantage that this large area is not contained in a vast continent 
 accessible only from a limited portion of coast ; but that the fur 
 greater and richer portion is immediately accessible from along line 
 of no less than 3000 miles of coast, abounding in safe and com- 
 modious harbours. The evidence of all the most competent wit- 
 nesses before the Committee of last session, corroborated as it is by 
 every writer on the subject, shows that the natural resources of this 
 country are great and varied. But I will quote only one authority 
 on this point, because it is that of one to whose opinion her 
 Majesty's Government cannot refuse the respect they have always 
 paid to it. Captain Fitzroy, in a letter written by him in Septem- 
 ber last, which you will find at page 141 of the papers laid before 
 this House in April, says : ' Your lordship may ask, is New 
 Zealand, as a British Colony, worth any great expenditure of public 
 money ? My lord, its value is far greater than the public believe, 
 or even your lordship, with access to every source of information, can 
 yet be aware. There is very much more available fertile and rich 
 land than has been supposed.' I may add, that the difficulties
 
 U'ABILITIES OF NEW ZEALAND. 33 
 
 anticipated from the expense of clearing the forest turn out to 
 L.IM lieen much overrated, and that it is now considered that the 
 settler may calculate on repaying that expense by the first year's 
 crop. Inquiry too Las made known the existence of a vast extent 
 of open country, admirably adapted for pasture. Governor Fitzroy 
 goes on to say, The climate favours every kind of production, 
 ajiiuial as well as vegetable, iu au extraordinary manner. It is 
 singularly congenial to English constitutions. I may add,' says the 
 Governor. ' that mineral riches abound ; their extent and variety 
 becoming more known and better ascertained every month. Since 
 I last wrote to your lordship, and mentioned this subject, tin has 
 been found in this neighbourhood, close to the sea. Copper, 
 sulphur, iron, and coal had been previously known to be most 
 abundant. It has been found,' he says, ' that the flax hitherto sent 
 home bears no comparison with a peculiar kind called by the 
 settlers silky flax. This is now being cultivated ^ though perennial, 
 it is comparatively scarce), and promises to be a really valuable 
 export. In fact, the improvements already made justify us in 
 believing that New Zealand flax will ere long be a cheap and valu- 
 able substitute for Russian hemp. Whales,' he says, ' are again 
 frequenting these coasts in numbers, after having for a time almost 
 deserted them.' And here I must beg particularly to remind the 
 House of the great importance of the South Sea whale fishery, on 
 which the world now almost entirely depends for its supply of oil 
 and whalebone, the North Sea whale fishery being almost destroyed. 
 Of this, New Zealand is the natural emporium. Captain Fitzroy 
 then goes on to comment on ' the valuable qualities and abundance 
 of the timber ;' and it is now well known that New Zealand produces 
 the greatest possible variety of beautiful furniture wood, and timber 
 for all domestic purposes. ' The natives,' he adds, ' are well inclined 
 to labour for very small remuneration, and are anxiously seeking 
 for employment. There are all the means for prosperity, except 
 capital ; but that, with our mineral wealth, is sure to be found, if 
 good feeling is kept up between the natives and Europeans, and the 
 security of property as well as life fully maintained.'" 
 
 ' Captain Fitzroy then goes on to say, ' I have here referred only 
 to the commercial bearings of this grave question : the political 
 aspect will be before your lordship's eye in England.' Considera- 
 tions of the greatest moment do indeed give great political import- 
 ance to the possession of New Zealand. Our trade with the Pacific 
 is daily increasing in extent. Our relations with other Powers in 
 that Ocean are getting to be very delicate. France has possession 
 of the Friendly Islands and the Marquesas. The L'nited States 
 have virtual possession of the Sandwich Islands. The American 
 coast of this great ocean presents the important dominions of Chili, 
 Peru, Mexico, with the possible, the very probable, communication 
 across the Isthmus of Daricn, and our valuable territory of the
 
 34 EXTENT AND POSITION 
 
 Oregon. On the Asiatic side, you have the far greater commerce of 
 China, the Philippine Islands, and the Indian Archipelago. A 
 British Colony in New Zealand would be the natural master of this 
 Ocean, the irresistible arbiter of all its complicated relations and 
 important interests. Its position would command the Pacific ; its 
 numerous harbours would supply shelter, its vast forests materials, 
 for the greatest navy in the world. Yon might make it in truth the 
 Britain of the Southern Hemisphere : there you might concentrate 
 the trade of the Pacific ; and from that new seat of your dominion 
 you might give laws and manners to a new world, upholding subject 
 races, and imposing your will on the strong." 
 
 New Zealand consists of two large islands, called 
 the North and the Middle, a smaller island called 
 Stewart's, and several adjacent islets. The group 
 extends from north to south between the 34th and 
 48th degrees of south latitude, and from east to west 
 between the 166th and 179th degrees of east longitude. 
 The extreme length, from the North Cape to the South 
 Cape, exceeds 900 miles. The greatest breadth is 
 about 300 miles; diminishing to 200, and to 100, 
 and to greatly less towards the northern extremity of 
 the North Island ; the average breadth is perhaps 
 rather more than 100 miles. The North and Middle 
 Islands are separated by Cook's Strait, in latitude 
 41 S. ; and Stewart's Island is divided from the 
 Middle Island by Foveaux's Strait, in latitude 46 
 40' S. 
 
 The North Island has been estimated to contain 
 31,174,400 acres, the Middle Island 46,126,080, and 
 Stewart's Island about 1,000,000 acres of land. A 
 more distinct notion of their size may be conveyed to 
 the reader by reminding him that the North Island is 
 only about one thirty-second part less than England, 
 exclusive of Wales and Scotland; that the Middle 
 Island is about one-ninth part less than England and 
 Scotland together; and that the whole group contains 
 78,300,480 acres, or only about 50,000 acres less than 
 the whole of Great Britain and Ireland, with all the 
 little adjacent islands.
 
 OF NEW ZEALAND. 35 
 
 hese 78,300,480 acres, there appears good reason 
 to believe that, after allowing amply for mountainous 
 districts, water, and irreclaimable morasses or sandhills, 
 at least two-thirds, or upwards of 52,000,000 acres, 
 are susceptible of beneficial occupation for the purposes 
 of agriculture or pasturage. 
 
 This country was first seen by the Dutch navigator 
 Tasman, in 1642: but, as he never landed, and sup- 
 posed it to form part of a great Southern continent, 
 the honour of its discovery belongs to Captain Cook, 
 who first proved it to consist of islands by circum- 
 navigating the group, and sailing through the strait 
 which bears bis name. He visited New Zealand at 
 various periods between the years 1769 and 1777, and 
 surveyed a great part of the coasts with such remark- 
 able accuracy, that modern surveyors down to the 
 present day have only confirmed his charts, except 
 where they have laid down portions of the shore which 
 he had not approached closely enough to examine. 
 
 Zealand is the land nearest to the Antipodes of 
 Great Britain. It lies 1200 miles to the east of the 
 continent of Australia, and nearly in the centre of an 
 immense semicircle formed by the continents of Ame- 
 rica, Asia, and Africa; which extends from Cape Horn, 
 by Behring's Strait, to the Cape of Good Hope, and 
 contains within its compass the several groups of islands 
 which compose the Eastern and Polynesian Archi- 
 pelagoes. 
 
 The following is a table of distances, in round num- 
 :rom Wellington, on the north shore of Cook's 
 Strait, the principal port of New Zealand, to various 
 remarkable spots within this vast semicircle: 
 
 Mile*, about. 
 
 To Sydney, the capital of New South Wales . . 1200 
 To Hobart Town, tbe capital of Van Dieiuen's Land 1300 
 To Melbourne, the capita] of Australia Felix . . 1400 
 To Adelaide, the capital of South Australia . . 1600 
 To Perth, the capital of Western Australia . . . 2800 
 To the Mauritius 0800
 
 36 COMMUNICATION BETWEEN 
 
 Miles, about. 
 
 To the Cape of Good Hope 7200 
 
 To Aden, at the mouth of the Red Sea .... 7000 
 
 To Bombay 0300 
 
 To Ceylon 5700 
 
 To Madras (5000 
 
 To Calcutta CfiOO 
 
 To Singapore 4300 
 
 To Hongkong 5400 
 
 To Manilla 4800 
 
 To Labuan, in the island of Borneo 4300 
 
 To Tahiti 2400 
 
 To the Marquesas Islands 3100 
 
 To the Sandwich Islands 4800 
 
 To Vancouver's Island, in the Oregon Territory . 0900 
 
 To Panama 0000 
 
 To Lima, the capital of Peru 0800 
 
 To Valparaiso, the principal sea-port of Chili . . 5. r )00 
 
 The length of the voyage from England to Welling- 
 ton, round the Cape of Good Hope, is about the same 
 as that to Sydney, averaging nearly 120 days, although 
 it has been accomplished, on more than one occasion, 
 in less than 90.* Westerly winds blow steadily in 
 the latitudes south of 40 S., all round the world, for 
 about nine months of the year; so that the distance north- 
 ward to Sydney, from Bass's Strait, or from the South 
 Cape of Van Diemen's Land, is practically greater than 
 from the same point of separation to Wellington. In 
 return -voyages to Europe, by way of Cape Horn, the 
 whole distance between the two points of departure is 
 gained by ships coming direct from New Zealand, over 
 those from any part of Australia, which pass frequently 
 through Cook's Strait. 
 
 In the very probable event of the establishment of 
 regular steam communication across the Atlantic and 
 Pacific Oceans, with land-conveyance by railway over 
 the Isthmus of Darien, the voyage from England to 
 New Zealand may be reduced, at no distant day, to the 
 compass of eight or nine weeks. And it seems also 
 
 * In Appendix A, is given an account of a passage made in tlie 
 end of the year 184(i, by H. M. steam-sloop Jnjic.vihle, from Eng- 
 land to New Zealand, calling at the Cape of Good Hope and Sydney.
 
 ENGLAND AND NEW ZEALAND. 37 
 
 likely that a branch of the steam communication already 
 existing between England and Singapore will soon be 
 extended, through Torres' Strait, to Australia and New 
 Zealand, a Company for that purpose having been 
 already formed, and having procured a Charter of In- 
 corporation. The existence of an abundant supply of 
 coal, in several convenient situations on the coasts of 
 New Zealand, points out that country as certain to be 
 an important station for steam-ships taking either of 
 these routes.* 
 
 Intending emigrants often object to New Zealand, 
 in common with the other Australasian Colonies, on ac- 
 count of the length of the voyage in comparison with 
 that to North America. The following extracts from 
 an article on the subject, which appeared in the Times 
 of the 13th* November, 1845, will be perused with in- 
 terest by persons who may be yet undecided on this 
 ground: 
 
 "Notwithstanding all the before-named facts and grave authori- 
 ties in favour of New Zealand, there is yet a circumstance of para- 
 mount importance, which is us applicable to all the Australian 
 polonies as to Nf.v Zealand viz., the passage. The three great 
 lields of emigration are the United States, the Anglo-North- 
 Amerifau colonies, and of late years the Pacific. Floating hotels, 
 propelled by steam, make the passage to the St. Lawrence and the 
 I'nited States in ten or twelve days; still that has nothing to do 
 with the passage of emigrants. The prevalence of westerly winds 
 is such that there is a great difference between the passage to and 
 from America. Then, again, the climate is such, that for half the 
 vein- the passage cannot be made at all (by sailing ships) north of 
 Ni'W York. Nor is this all : the ice of the northern regions breaks 
 off, floats southwards in immense masses, and renders the seas on 
 the north coasts of America dangerous, even as late as the month 
 of June." 
 
 ' The average L-ngth of passage of emigrant ships 10 the British 
 North American states, as officially returned by Mr. Busby, is forty- 
 nine days; and even the finest ships of war, for instance, the 
 
 ' New Zealand coal lias aliv.idy been tried on hoard H. M. 
 :e;iin sloops Di'tfi'f and fii/lf.rililf. bee Appendix A. for a rejx.it 
 made by Captain floseasou, H.N., upon its capabilities for the pur- 
 poses of steam-navigation. 
 
 E
 
 38 COMMUNICATION BETWEEN 
 
 Warspite, which carried out Lord Ashburtou, was forty-seven days 
 between Portsmouth and New York; the Illustrious, with Sir 
 Charles Bagot, was fifty-one." 
 
 "But then of what is composed by far the greater number of the 
 voyages which form Mr. Busby's average ? They are the voyages 
 from the Clyde, Liverpool, Belfast, Londonderry, Cork, and Lime- 
 rick; and ships sailing from these places must make the opposite 
 shores of the Atlantic at least ten days sooner than ships from the 
 Thames. The average voyages of ships from England to New 
 Zealand may be calculated at 120 days, and these are placed in 
 comparison with the vessels from the western ports to the coasts of 
 America. Send vessels from these ports to any of the Australian 
 colonies, and the average voyage would be reduced to 110 days ; or, 
 calculate the length of voyage by sailing vessels only from the 
 Thames to the St. Lawrence and New York, ten days at least must 
 be added to Mr. Busby's average." 
 
 " Whichever way you take it, the voyage from Britain to Australia 
 and New Zealand cannot occupy more than double the time of that 
 to America, and this alone is to be considered. In as far as main- 
 taining emigrants is concerned, the advantage to the ship-owner is 
 greatly in favour of the Australian voyage: 1st. He can work all 
 the year round. 2nd. He can, in going to Australia or New 
 Zealand, receive the freight of two voyages to America with only 
 once loading and discharging, whilst in the American voyage this 
 must be done twice." 
 
 " It is probable that at present the want of back freight for the 
 return voyage occasions necessarily a high price of freight outwards ; 
 this, however, is mending every day; the day is not very far distant 
 when Sir R. Peel will carry his opinion out, 'that the Colonies 
 should form an integral part of the British Empire.' Let England 
 receive corn from the Polynesian sea at the same duty as from 
 Canada; give a title of the land of New Zealand to the settlers, 
 and there will be back freights enough." 
 
 "All this, however, is little more than a comparative examination 
 of the interests of shipowners between America and Australia, from 
 which it is evident that a human being can be carried, and will be 
 in a very short time, at rather less the double price to Australia than 
 is paid to America." 
 
 " But when landed, the sea between Great Britain and America 
 is, as it were, the first bridge, that passed, comes the hind journey ; 
 and this is generally as far west as the funds of the emigrant 
 permit him to go. The majority of those without, and who conse- 
 quently have no means to proceed inland, beg the means to return. 
 Upon this subject the words of Mr. Buckingham, in his recent 
 work on the United States, shall be quoted: 
 
 " ' * * * It is ascertained as a fact, that more than one-third of 
 the emigrants from Europe die within the first three years of their
 
 ENGLAND AND NEW ZEALAND. 39 
 
 residence in this country, though they generally come out iu the 
 full vigour of life.' " 
 
 ii * * * * Those who, as soon as landed on the quays at New 
 York, beg the menus of returning, in the year 1842 amounted to 
 10,000 from that port only." * * * * * 
 
 "Put tin-,', however, political reasons on one side, all these 
 American eoantrie&are the same in point of climate as the European 
 Baltic. They are all existing under the scourge of a Scandinavian 
 climate freezing their seas and ports between four and ti ve months 
 out of the year forcing shipping and trade to partake of the same 
 torpidity that it has imposed on its vegetation." 
 
 " The Polynesian seas the ports of Australia and New Zealand 
 are open all the year round ; and these colonies are destined, 
 under proper management, in the course of a few years, to supply 
 our maritime empire with all the produce which half-yearly is drawn 
 from the Baltic ; and when once colonized, all the trade which now 
 goes to these (North American) colonies will go all the year round 
 to the Pacific, of which it may be well said that New Zealand is the 
 Queen and the Britain of the Southern Hemisphere." 
 
 The following extract from the first part of the 
 " Plan of the Canterbury Association," also affords a 
 striking comparison of the distances between England 
 and the Colonist's location in America and New Zealand 
 respectively: 
 
 " As regards the question of distance and facility of Commu- 
 communicatiou, it will be well to bear in mind the following m .cation 
 considerations. The principal elements which enter into England, 
 the cost of conveying bulky commodities from one country 
 to another are 
 
 " The insurance against the total loss, and that against 
 tlio wear and tear of the vessel that carries them ; 
 
 " The insurance against the total loss, and that against 
 tlip damage of the goods carried; 
 
 " The expense of loading and unloading; and 
 
 " The wages and provisions of officers and crew during 
 the voyage. 
 
 " Now, if thi' premiums of insurance be taken as a measure 
 of the risk of losing or damaging vessel or cargo in any 
 voyage, New Zealand will lie in a slightly less favourable 
 position in this respect, than New York, but will claim a 
 considerable advantage over British North America for more 
 than half the year; the premium on marine assurance to 
 Nfw /calami in the winter months being 60s., whilst that to 
 Halifax, neaily the only port in British North America 
 accessible in those months, is lOO.s., per 100/. value. 
 
 " The charges for loading and unloading, warehousing,
 
 40 VOYAGE FROM ENGLAND. 
 
 brokerage and commission on the goods, for light and 
 harbour dues, and pilotage on the vessel, will be the same in 
 both cases. 
 
 " The wages and provisions of the officers and crew, a 
 comparatively unimportant element in the cost price of 
 freight, will be proportionate to the length of the voyage. 
 
 " Therefore, whenever the exports of Australia and New 
 Zealand shall be of sufficient volume to fill readily the 
 largest ships and that time is not very distant the expense 
 of conveying to, and selling in, the British market, Austra- 
 lian and New Zealand produce, will little exceed the cost of 
 the same operations on American produce shipped from the 
 wharfs of Quebec, or even New York. 
 
 " But it may be remarked, as regards most of the American 
 farmers, that the cost of conveying their produce to the port 
 of shipment far exceeds that of conveying it thence to the 
 British market. To obtain cheap land, the emigrant to 
 America must now travel more than 1000 miles from the 
 sea-board to the interior of Michigan or Illinois. The cost 
 of conveying his flour from these distant inland districts is 
 generally 4Z. or 51. per ton, or six times that of conveying it 
 from New York to Liverpool. Thus the total cost of con- 
 veying it from Illinois, for instance, to Liverpool, will pro- 
 bably exceed that of conveying it from the New Zealand 
 farm (which, from the form of the islands, can rarely be far 
 from the sea) to the same port. 
 
 " Two important improvements in the means of communi- 
 cation between distant countries are now in process of intro- 
 duction namely, a great increase in the size and strength of 
 merchant vessels, and the application of steam to marine 
 locomotion. Already the average capacity of the packet- 
 ships trading between New York and Liverpool exceeds 
 1000 tons, and before many years shall have passed, it is not 
 improbable that their average capacity will approximate to 
 2000 tons. These vessels, from their smaller prime cost, 
 and the smaller crew required to work them, in proportion 
 to the cargo which they can carry, are enabled to convey 
 goods at a low rate compared with those of less tonnage. 
 This will become a very important consideration, as soon as 
 the exports from Australia and New Zealand shall be of 
 sufficient magnitude to give full employment to ships of the 
 same size as that of the New York packet ships. 
 
 " The voyage from London to Wellington in New 
 Zealand has been accomplished in eighty-nine days ; but the 
 average length of it is somewhat under four months. I( is, 
 however, certain that steam communication is about to be 
 immediately established between Singapore and Sydney, and
 
 \OLCAMC 
 
 there is no duubt that iis eattblishBtept will be followed by 
 that of a branch service from Sydney to New Zealand, unless, 
 indeed, the progress of the hitter colony be found to justify 11 
 more direct communication between it and India. The time 
 which will then be required for the whole voyage from 
 London to Wellington will not generally exceed half the 
 present average that is, t\vo mouths.'' 
 
 Like many other of the South Sea Islands, New 
 Zealand is of volcanic origin. A chain of lofty, sharp- 
 peaked mountains intersects the Middle Island from 
 is'.E. to S.W. The highest peaks of the chain are 
 clothed with perpetual snow, like the Alps; and in 
 the winter, when the whole range is snow-covered, 
 their appearance is strikingly grand. None of them 
 have yet been ascended or accurately measured. No 
 volcano in active operation has yet been discovered 
 on the Mijldle Island. 
 
 The mountains in the North Island do not form so 
 continuous a chain, and, with the exception of a few 
 detached peaks, do not attain so great a height. Apart 
 from these exceptions, the ranges in the North Island 
 are only clothed with snow during two or three winter 
 months. The isolated peaks remarkable for their height 
 are Mount Egmont, Tongariro, Ruapehu, and Mount 
 Edgecumbe. 
 
 Mount Egmont, an extinct volcano, situated in the 
 south-western extremity of the island, near the shore 
 of Cook's Strait, was first ascended by Dr. Ernest 
 Dieflfenbach, in December, 1839; and its height above 
 the level of the sea was reckoned by him at 8840 feet. 
 
 Tongariro, a volcano in active operation, and Rua- 
 pehu, an extinct volcano, lie close to each other, form- 
 ing, with two or three lesser peaks, a magnificent 
 mountain-group near the centre of the island. The 
 former was first ascended by Mr. John Came Bid will, 
 in March, 1839; and its height is estimated by him at 
 6200 feet above the level of the sea. Ruapehu must 
 be considerably higher, as its summit is, at any rate, 
 far above the limit of perpetual snow. 
 
 E2
 
 4.2 MOUNTAINS. LAKES. 
 
 Mount Edgecumbe is an extinct volcano, near the 
 shore of the Bay of Plenty. It is not known to have 
 been ever ascended, nor has it ever been accurately 
 measured. It is supposed, however, to rise to the 
 height of 7000 feet, 
 
 In a direction from north-east to south-west, between 
 Mount Edgecumbe and Mount Egmont, the whole 
 country is impressed with the traces of volcanic action, 
 which, indeed, is still going on, and appears to have 
 had its principal point of activity in the crater of Ton- 
 gariro. It is, moreover, studded with innumerable 
 boiling springs, geysers, fumeroles, solfataras, and 
 stufas, in the same line. The easternmost extremity 
 of this line is White Island, in the Bay of Plenty, the 
 summit of a crater, composed chiefly of sulphur, which 
 is still active, and but little elevated above the level of 
 the sea. Besides these proofs of a powerful volcanic 
 action, there is in that geographical line a chain of 
 lakes, which most of them appear to be intimately con- 
 nected with the eruptive character of the country. Of 
 these, Lake Taupo, nearly at the south-west extremity 
 of the chain, is the largest. This lake is situated about 
 twelve miles north of Tongariro. It has an irregular 
 triangular shape; its greatest length is about thirty-six 
 miles, and its greatest breadth about twenty-five; its 
 borders are in many places deeply indented. Several 
 rivers fall into the lake from the southward, and the 
 common outlet of them all is the Waikato river, which 
 flows into the sea on the west coast, in about latitude 
 37 25' S. Dr. Dieffenbach reckons the waters of 
 this lake to beat an elevation of 1337 feet above the 
 level of the sea. 
 
 A considerable portion of the country, for many miles 
 around Lake Taupo, consists of level table-lands, lying 
 at an equal elevation. There are lower table-lands in 
 many places between these and the heads of the valleys 
 through which the waters drained from the table-lands, 
 and from the higher ranges and peaks, reach the coast. 
 Throughout the island, detached ranges, of less height
 
 RESKMHLANCE TO ITALY. 43 
 
 than the remarkable peaks which have been described, 
 intersect both the alluvial plains near the coast and the 
 highest table-lands. These ranges almost invariably 
 lie in the general direction of north and south. 
 
 In the Middle Island, there are also several fresh- 
 water lakes, of greater or less dimensions. The prin- 
 cipal ones as yet known are Lakes Arthur and Howick, 
 near the north-western extremity of the island; Lake 
 Waiora, close to the south-west corner of Banks's 
 Peninsula, on the east coast; and two or three smaller 
 Jakes near the south-east extremity of the island, be- 
 tween Otago harbour and the Clutha or Molyneux river. 
 
 Slight shocks of earthquake are by no means un- 
 common throughout the islands; the first of which we 
 have any authentic record having been observed by 
 Captain -Cook when in Queen Charlotte's Sound nearly 
 eighty years ago, and many having been experienced 
 by the Colonists since the foundation of the British 
 Settlements in 1 S40. There are vairue traditions among 
 
 O O 
 
 the natives of former severe volcanic convulsions, which 
 are indeed sufficiently attested by the appearance of 
 the country: but within the memory of those now 
 living no serious damage has been caused by the 
 shocks, nor do the natives betray the slightest symptoms 
 of fear when they occur. This is probably to be 
 accounted for by the existence of numerous outlets for 
 the escape of the subterraneous power. 
 
 A great part of the North Island is covered, as may 
 be easily concluded from the foregoing account, with a 
 rich volcanic tufaceous soil, like that which is found in 
 Italy .-o well adapted to the cultivation of the vine. 
 New Zealand, indeed, is very similar to Italy in its 
 leading geographical as well as geological features. It 
 is a narrow strip of land, containing many tracts avail- 
 able for cultivation, which are separated one from the 
 other by ranges of mountain?, and watered by streams 
 of no great importance for navigation far into the in- 
 terior. It is therefore especially adapted for a species 
 of colonization similar to that by which Italy was
 
 44 MINERAL WEALTH. RIVERS. 
 
 peopled namely, the foundation of numerous inde- 
 pendent settlements, each in a chosen spot within a 
 district of its own, and having little communication, 
 except by sea, with any of the others. 
 
 In several respects, too, New Zealand may be said to 
 bear some resemblance to the British Isles. It resem- 
 bles them, not only in its irregular and straggling 
 oblong shape, and in its detached position from the 
 nearest continents, but also in matters of greater im- 
 portance. Like them, surrounded by the sea, it pos- 
 sesses the same means of ready communication and of 
 rapid conveyance between all parts of its coasts; and 
 the same facilities for an extensive trade, within its 
 numerous bays and estuaries. The temperature, too, 
 of the warmer latitudes in which it is placed, is in- 
 fluenced or regulated, as in Great Britain, by the 
 refreshing and invigorating sea-breezes, and the whole 
 line of coast abounds with fish, in great variety and of 
 great delicacy. 
 
 As might have been expected from the geological 
 character of the country, numerous indications of 
 varied mineral wealth have been observed. Coal, 
 copper, sulphur, and manganese, have been discovered 
 and already worked to advantage, although on a small 
 scale, for want of capital, each in at least one spot. 
 Sand containing iron in such quantities that measures 
 have already been taken for the erection of smelting- 
 works, and indications of iron ore, tin, lead, and what 
 has been conjectured to be nickel, may also be enu- 
 merated. Doubtless further discoveries would be made, 
 were the country to be more minutely examined for 
 that express purpose by some experienced mineralogists; 
 and as the geological structure of the mountain ranges 
 is precisely similar to that of the Andes, it may fairly 
 be expected that even the most valuable minerals will 
 in the course of time be found to exist in them. 
 
 In the mountains above described are the sources of 
 numerous streams and rivers, which flow into the sea at 
 various points along the extensive line of coast. As they
 
 FACE OF THE COUNTRY. HARBOURS. 45 
 
 i i.-c at ;i considerable height, and yet have to reach the 
 sea within a comparatively short distance, they are 
 not generally navigable for any great distance; but the 
 courses of some of them, however their navigation may 
 be interrupted by falls and rapids, reach to the length 
 of one and even two hundred miles. It follows that 
 they afford an immense amount of mechanical power 
 by their rapid tall in all parts of the country. Constant 
 moisture from the immediately surrounding ocean is 
 intercepted by the high ranges, so that these streams 
 never fail; and thus there is scarcely a hollow in New 
 Zealand which does not enjoy an unceasing supply of 
 water and of mill-power. In the lower part of their 
 course, too, these rivers have spread out large tracts of 
 the richest alluvial soil, some of which is at once avail- 
 able for , cultivation, while another portion requires 
 clearing from timber, or superficial drainage in order 
 to let off the surface water, or sometimes both. 
 
 The face of the country is thus divided between 
 mountains and hills more or less precipitous, extensive 
 table-lands at a greater or less elevation above the sea, 
 and alluvial districts, interspersed with fens generally 
 available by drainage, nearer the level of the shores. 
 On each of these different surfaces, the vegetation par- 
 takes more or less luxuriantly of four general characters. 
 It consists either of forest, or of grass, or of high 
 fern;* or of a mixture of grass and fern together with 
 the indigenous flax-plantf and a few shrubs of small 
 size, including the cabbage -tree or Ti-palmJ. 
 
 New Zealand is remarkable for the excellence of its 
 harbours, and their great number in proportion to the 
 extent of its coast line. They would afford a safe and 
 central rendezvous to the immense shipping trade of 
 the whole Southern Archipelago; an expanse not less 
 than fifteen thousand miles in circumference, covered 
 with myriads of islands, many of them exceeding 
 greatly in size the whole British Islands. The prin- 
 
 * Plcris Escit/cus. + Plwrmiuni TCIKU. 
 
 1 Drucditu Justralis.
 
 16 CLIMATE. 
 
 cipal harbours of New Zealand will, however, be 
 described hereafter in their appropriate order. 
 
 The climate of New Zealand is better adapted to an 
 English constitution that that of any other of our 
 Colonies. The great preponderance of water over land 
 in the Southern Hemisphere causes a lower degree of 
 heat in any latitude, than in a similar latitude of the 
 Northern Hemisphere, where land preponderates over 
 water. The temperature of New Zealand, therefore, 
 somewhat resembles that of the land between the south 
 of Portugal and the middle of France; or rather, from 
 its insular character, that which Great Britain would 
 enjoy, if its centre lay twelve hundred miles to the 
 west of Cape Finisterre. The extremes of heat in 
 summer, and of cold in winter, are within very narrow 
 limits; for the immense expanse of ocean, which sur- 
 rounds these narrow islands on all sides, moderates 
 alike the heat of the tropics, and the cold of the 
 antarctic regions. The phenomena of climate in which 
 we observe England to differ very much from New 
 Zealand, such as the greater cold in winter and during 
 certain winds, appear to arise from the greater proximity 
 of the nearest continents. 
 
 The seasons are nearly as follow : Spring commences 
 in the middle of August; Summer in December; 
 Autumn in March; and Winter in July. But the 
 summer is without scorching heat, and the winter free 
 from severe frosts. Except in the most southern parts, 
 or on the high table-lands, or on the sides of the 
 highest mountains, ice is never seen after the sun has 
 fairly risen, and snow never lies on the ground: and 
 even at the extreme south, evergreen plants of the 
 myrtle kind grow to the edge of the sea, and thrive bet- 
 ter than in Devonshire or the Isle of Wight. Hot winds 
 and droughts, such as occur in New South Wales and 
 at the Cape of Good Hope, are wholly unknown in 
 New Zealand; for, as has been already observed, a 
 never-failing supply of moisture is shed on the moun-
 
 CLIMATE. 47 
 
 tain-tops and forest lands, by the winds which blow 
 from all quarters over a vast expanse of ocean. 
 
 On the high table-lands of the interior, even in the 
 Northern Island, frosts sometimes occur which affect 
 such plants as acacias and potatoes; but this is a 
 circumstance which never happens near the coast, all 
 along which the potato is planted at all seasons of the 
 year, and the opening of the flower-buds is hardly 
 retarded during the season of winter, the presence of 
 which is only indicated by more frequent rains and 
 winds. 
 
 And yet there is no distinct rainy season. Although 
 it is rare for a fortnight to elapse without at least 
 refreshing showers, determined rainy weather seldom 
 lasts longer than three days without clear intervals, 
 during which everything, including the atmosphere, 
 becomes quickly dry. With this last qualification, it 
 may be considered as a moist climate. There seems 
 little doubt but that more rain falls during the year in 
 Xew Zealand than in England. It rains during all the 
 months of the year; but the greater quantity falls in 
 winter and spring, when there is also the greater 
 number of rainy days; and the longest intervals 
 between rain, and the smallest quantity when it does 
 rain, generally occur about the end of December and 
 January, or at the best period for the harvest of grain. 
 
 The dews are heavy, particularly during the winter 
 months. In the interior, mists rest over the lakes and 
 river-courses in the mornings, but are soon dispelled 
 by the rising sun, or driven away by the winds. 
 
 Besides the disposition of the atmosphere to dry 
 quickly, which has already been mentioned, it may be 
 remarked that the physical configuration of New 
 Zealand, and the geological formation of the hills, are 
 in general such that the water is rapidly carried 
 towards the coast the lakes have always an outlet 
 and, considering the unreclaimed state of the country, 
 swamps are not excessively numerous or extensive
 
 48 VEGETATION. STRONG WINDS. 
 
 Such as do exist are generally attributable to the clayey 
 nature of the sub-soil. They are certainly not of suffi- 
 cient importance to influence the general state of the 
 humidity of the air, or to render it insalubrious. 
 
 In consequence of this great quantity of moisture, the 
 vegetation is remarkably vigorous, even in places where 
 only a thin layer of vegetable earth covers the rocks. 
 Sandy places, which in any other country would be 
 quite barren, are covered with herbage in New Zealand. 
 Everywhere trees and shrubs grow to the margin of the 
 sea, and suffer no harm even* from the salt spray. 
 
 On the coasts of New Zealand, and especially near 
 those parts of it which are high and mountainous, 
 wind is frequent, and tolerably strong. The general 
 direction of strong gales is W. or S., varying, however, 
 from these points according to the form of the coast. 
 
 Near the shores of Cook's Strait, which is about the 
 centre of the islands, you may sleep agreeably during 
 three-fourths of the year with your bed -room window 
 open; and yet, when you are confined to the house by 
 rain or violent gales, you can generally enjoy a small 
 fire in the partially weather-tight residences of the early 
 colonists. Except in those rare cases, it is most plea- 
 sant to be employed out of doors; for not only is vege- 
 tation highly luxuriant, and the verdure, whether of 
 the trees or of the pastures, perpetual, but the atmo- 
 sphere is so clear that objects are visible at a great 
 distance, and the varying but ever beautiful tints of 
 the bright sky and picturesque scenery are the con- 
 stant source of admiration. 
 
 Cattle and sheep never require to be housed, as there 
 is no frost or excessive damp to injure them, and the 
 pasturage lasts throughout the year. 
 
 Fogs, excepting always the morning exhalations 
 above-mentioned, are almost unknown, except in the 
 southern extremity of the islands : and even the 
 southerly winds, bringing as they do some cold from 
 the Antarctic regions, are so tempered by the extent of
 
 SALUBRITY OF CLIMATE. 49 
 
 water over which they pass, as to be totally free from 
 the unpleasant qualities of our English easterly winds. 
 It i.s almost needless to add, that the most robust 
 health is enjoyed by almost all persons who live in such 
 a climate. The doctor's occupation would be nearly 
 gone, but that marriages are undoubtedly rendered 
 more prolific by the same genial air, which rears all 
 the children in such rosy vigour. Dr. Dieffenbach, 
 who paid especial attention to the meteorology of New 
 Zealand, affords us the following testimony to the 
 salubrity of its climate: 
 
 " As the atmosphere, by its moderate warmth, its humidity, and 
 roiistiuit current, is peculiarly favourable to the vegetative powers, 
 us we see in the luxurious growth of plants, so from the same causes 
 it suits the human frame. In the families of the missionaries and 
 settlers, 1 observed no deviation from the original stock; the chil- 
 dren grow w'ell and strong, with fresh and rosy faces, and I am 
 satislied that in this respect, New Zealand is in no way inferior to 
 Great Britain. A humid and temperate atmosphere acts especially 
 upon production, both as it regards growth of the body and the 
 numerical strength of families. Nutrition and re-production are in 
 good order ; in respect to the numerical strength of families, the 
 climate seems to be particularly favourable to the increase of popu- 
 lation at least, all the Europeans have large families. We see the 
 effect of this humid climate in certain diseases, to which Europeans 
 first arriving in this country are often subjected. These are abscesses, 
 or boils, and eruptive diseases; neither, however, of a malignant 
 character, and both disappearing without medical aid. Amongst the 
 natives, carbuncles and diseases of the mucous membranes are 
 common: here, however, other causes are acting, of which I shall 
 speak more hereafter. The European, when once acclimatized, does 
 not suffer from any of these causes. True inflammatory diseases 
 are uncommon : the south-east wind of New Zealand is never as 
 keen as our north-easter; but, in consequence of the moist climate, 
 such diseases always assume the character of catarrh. I am not 
 aware that any endemic diseases exist in New Zealand; inlluen/ii, 
 however, and sometimes croup, appear epidemically. If care is not 
 taken, rheumatisms also make their appearance. But it is certain, 
 that causes, -which in England would produce violent colds and 
 other injurious results, pass over in New Zealand without any bad 
 effect, even to those colonists who are in delicate health." 
 
 " The purity of the atmosphere, resulting from the continual 
 wind, imparts to the climate a vigour which gives elasticity to the 
 physical powers and to the mind. Heat never debilitates, not even 
 F
 
 50 HISTORICAL SUMMARY. 
 
 so much as a hot summer's day iii England ; ami near the coasts, 
 especially, there is always a cooling and refreshing breeze. The 
 colonist who occupies himself in agriculture can work all dny, and 
 the mechanic will not feel any lassitude, whether he works in or 
 out of doors. 
 
 " From all this, I draw the conclusion, that, as regards climate, 
 no country is better suited for a colony of the Anglo-Saxon race 
 than New Zealand ; and were this its only recommendation, it would 
 still deserve our utmost attention, as the future seat of European 
 civilization and institutions in the southern hemisphere ; since, iu 
 the other southern colonies for instance, in that of New South 
 Wales Europeans undergo more or less alteration from the ori- 
 ginal stock. 
 
 " Invalids rapidly recover in this climate : and there is no doubt 
 that the presence of numerous thermal waters in the North Island, 
 and the attractive scenery, will make New Zealand the resort of 
 those who have been debilitated in India, and are in search of 
 health."* 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Historical summary. 1709, Cook. 1793, Conflicts. 1814, Mis- 
 sionsfoundcd. 1822-'i7, Native Wars. 1831, British .Resident, 
 1835, Independence, Association of 1837. 1838, Baring's 
 Bill. 1839, Land Company. ISM, Treaty of Waitangi. 
 British Sovereignty. New Zealand Company. Colonization. 
 Governor Hobson. 1841, Bishop. Land-sharks. Contro- 
 versies. 1843, Obstacles to progress. Governor Fitzroy. 
 184'), Debate, and promises of Ministers. 1843-0, Constitu- 
 tion Act. Governor Grey. 184C-7, Otaao Settlement. (?c- 
 vernment Arrangements. Details of Constitution. 1848, Sus- 
 pended. Proclaimed. 
 
 IT will not be within the scope of this little volume to 
 dwell at any great length on the former history of New 
 Zealand, or on the various circumstances which have 
 promoted or impeded the foundation of British settle- 
 ments in various parts of the islands. The details of 
 this subject, up to the beginning of 1844, are very fully 
 
 * ' Travels in New Zealand,' by Ernest Diufienbach, M.D., 2 vols. 
 London, Murray, 1843. The observations contained in the above 
 quotation have been fully confirmed, as will be seen in subsequent 
 chapters, by the experience of the British colonists from 1*40 to 
 the present time. The number of births, compared with that of 
 deaths, is in each settlement extraordinary. In tbe year 1847, in-
 
 DISCOVERY BY COOK, 1769. 51 
 
 related in an earlier and larger work ;* and those of a 
 subsequent period are recorded in the ATew Zealand 
 Journal,^ a newspaper which has been published in 
 London every fortnight since 1840, in order to furnish 
 persons interested in the progress of the Colony with 
 all news relating to it. Of that mass of information a 
 mere abridgment is required here. 
 
 The islands of New Zealand were first seen by 
 Tasman, in 1642; but he did not land. 
 
 New Zealand was supposed to form part of the great 
 Terra Australia Incognita until the year 1769, between 
 which date and 1777, Captain Cook circumnavigated 
 and roughly surveyed the two principal islands, gave 
 his own name to the strait by which they are separated, 
 landed at various places, and took formal possession of 
 the country for the King of Great Britain. 
 
 Cook suggested the regular colonization of New Zea- 
 land ; but no attempt was made to carry his recommenda- 
 tion into effect, though many schemes for the purpose 
 were formed by various persons, including Dr. Franklin. 
 
 In the Parliamentary Debates which led to the esta- 
 blishment of New South Wales, in 1788, New Zealand 
 was mentioned as very suitable for an experiment of 
 penal colonization, and narrowly escaped, through a 
 terror of its savage inhabitants and their cannibalism. 
 
 As early as 1793, the whaling-ships of different 
 nations began to touch on the coast. Their intercourse 
 with the natives was marked by great cruelty and in- 
 justice on one part, great treachery aud dishonesty on 
 
 fluenza prevailed throughout the Australasian Colonies; but in 
 New Zealand the cases of death were very rare among Europeans. 
 The salubrity of the New Zealand climate has also been treated 
 upon by Mr. Wni. Swainson, F.U.S., an eminent naturalist, in a 
 small book, called ' Obsen-atiuns on the Climuti- <;,'' .V, , /fi////i</,' 
 publi>he<l by Smith, I'.l.lpr, & Co.. in l-i<. 
 
 * " Adventures in Xnc Z>n!,unl, iK,i,i l-:i'.i In 1S44 ; with some 
 Account of tin- Bei/iiiiiin<i nfthc British <'nl'>ni:ut'n>n uf'tltc Islam/," 
 by Edward Jernin^hiim WiikeiirM. F.SIJ.. 'J vnls. ^\o. Murray, 1^4-X 
 
 f Price 6rf. ; published ou every alternate Saturday, by Stewart 
 and Murray, Old Bailey.
 
 52 1793: SAVAGE BATTLES. 
 
 the other, and revolting blood-thirstiness and a strong 
 spirit of revenge on both sides. Excepting in the 
 solitary instance of an English sailor, the sole survivor 
 of a shipwrecked and massacred crew, who lived for 
 some years among the natives about the year 1807, we 
 can hear of no white man having lived on shoi*e between 
 the years 1793 and 1814. 
 
 In the latter year, the scenes of barbarism acted be- 
 tween the savages of both races had attracted general 
 attention. This state of things suggested to the Rev. 
 Samuel Marsden, Colonial Chaplain of New South 
 Wales, the project of establishing at the Bay of Islands 
 a mission of the Church Missionary Society. In 1814- 
 15, this benevolent scheme was carried into effect by 
 Mr. Marsden himself, under the sanction of the Go- 
 vernor of New South Wales, who issued a proclamation 
 on the occasion, whereby he treated New Zealand as a 
 " Dependency of the territory of New South Wales ;" 
 appointed the first missionary, Mr. Thomas Kendal, 
 " resident Magistrate at the Bay of Islands;" and made 
 three native Chiefs, who had visited Sydney, and who 
 accompanied the expedition, also Magistrates. 
 
 The first Wesley an Mission was founded in 1823, 
 by Messrs. Leigh, White, and Turner, at Wangaroa, 
 north of the Bay of Islands. They endured great 
 hardships, dangers, and privations among the turbulent 
 natives of those parts, with but little success in their 
 endeavours for four years. It was not till 1828, that 
 they established the head-quarters of the Wesleyan 
 Mission at Hokianga, on a more secure footing. 
 
 In course of time, the works of travellers in the 
 country who published their observations,* together 
 with the periodical reports of the Church Missionary 
 
 * " Some Account of Nt:w Zeal find," by John Savage, Esq., 
 Surgeon: London, 1S07. " Narrative of a Voyage to Nen- Zealand, 
 performed in the years 1814 and JHl">, //; company ii'it/i the BIT. 
 Samuel Marsden, Principal Chaplain f Ni-w South Wales," by 
 John Liddiard Nicholas, Esq., in '4 vols. : London, 1817. " Journal 
 f n Ti'ii MonthJ Residence in Xnr Zi'nlinnf,'' by If. A. Cruise, Esq., 
 Major iu the bith Bcgimeut of Foot : London, lb'2i.
 
 1814 : MISSIONS FOUNDED. 53 
 
 Society, partly removed the impressions of fear whidi 
 had beeii made by the savage character of the natives. 
 This result was further promoted by a visit of t\vo 
 Chiefs, Hongi and Waikato, who accompanied Mr. 
 Kendal to England in 1820, and who so artfully 
 adapted themselves to the predilections of the circles 
 into which they were introduced, as to pass for perfect 
 and very devout Christians. 
 
 Among other places at which Hongi and Waikato 
 were exhibited as Christian converts was the Univer- 
 sity of Cambridge. Here, by means of Mr. Kendal, 
 they became acquainted with Baron de Thierry, a 
 Frenchman by birth. They led the Baron to entertain 
 the hope of acquiring extensive territories and rights 
 of Chieftainship in New Zealand; and Mr. Kendal 
 undertook to act as his agent for that purpose. This 
 circumstance deserves notice, as having laid the foun- 
 dation of the attempt made by the French Government 
 in 1840 to establish a penal settlement in the Middle 
 Island. Mr. Kendal received a large sum of money 
 from Baron de Thierry as the intended purchase-money 
 of lands; and, in 1822, bought a small portion of land 
 for him at Hokiauga in consideration of a very trifling 
 payment. 
 
 While the two Chiefs were at Cambridge, Professor 
 Lee, from their pronunciation, reduced the Maori, or 
 aboriginal language, into a written one, and composed a 
 grammar and dictionary of it. This afforded the means of 
 translating the Catechism, Prayer-book, and parts of the 
 Bible into the native language. The demand for these 
 books gradually increased ; and some years later printing- 
 presses were introduced into the islands, first by the 
 Church, and afterwards by the Wesleyan missionaries. 
 
 In 1825, a Company was formed in London for the 
 purpose of establishing a Settlement in New Zealand.* 
 
 * It was composed of the following members : George Lynll, 
 Esq., Stewart Marjoril>anks. Esq., George Palmer, Esq., Colonel 
 Ton-ens, the Earl of Durham, Edward Ellice, Esq., the Hon. 
 
 rl
 
 54 18221827 : 
 
 Its views were submitted to Mr. Huskisson, then 
 President of the Board of Trade, who highly approved 
 of the undertaking, and promised them the grant of a 
 Royal Charter in case their preliminary expedition 
 should accomplish its object: but the expedition was 
 confided to incompetent management; its leader was 
 alarmed by a war-dance of the natives, performed, 
 there is every reason to believe, as a mark of welcome; 
 and he abandoned his task after purchasing some land 
 at Hokianga and in the Frith of the Thames. 
 
 The very ideas which belong to contracts for the 
 transfer of land as private property had been unknown 
 to the natives until 1814, when Mr. Marsden, desirous 
 of obtaining a site for the first missionary establishment 
 according to the forms of European law, carried with 
 him a technical deed of feoffment prepared by lawyers 
 at Sydney. This instrument, when its blanks for the 
 names of places were filled up, was signed by the mark 
 of certain Chiefs in consideration of a trifling payment. 
 It became the model of a vast number of contracts for 
 the sale of land to Europeans, into which natives were 
 induced to enter by the number of Whites Avho now 
 straggled into New Zealand from the neighbouring 
 Colonies, from French, American, and British shipping, 
 and even from England. This mode of acquiring land 
 from savages is now well known as land-sharkiny ; a 
 name which implies preying on the weakness of 
 childish ignorance. 
 
 Although the natives were even unconscious of the 
 purport of the deeds which they executed, because they 
 had not even conceived the idea of private property in 
 land according to European notions, they nevertheless 
 set great store by the European goods paid to them 
 for signing the deeds. Of these commodities muskets 
 and gunpowder formed the principal item. During 
 the residence of Hongi and Waikato in England, their 
 
 Courteuay Boyle, J. W. Buckle, Esq., Ralph Femvick, Esq.. Jus. 
 Pattison, Esq., Lord Hatlievton, A. \V. Robarts, Esq., George Varlo, 
 Esq., Anthony Gordon, Esq., John Dixon, Esq.
 
 NATIVE WAK> WHALEKS. 55 
 
 attention was steadily directed to the acquisition of 
 tire-arms. Hongi had no sooner returned home with 
 Mr. Kendal than he armed his own tribe, and its allies, 
 with the warlike presents which he had received in 
 England; and, throwing aside the mask of Christian 
 meekness which he had worn in this country, he 
 appeared in his true character of an ambitious and 
 bloodthirsty warrior. His superior weapons gave him 
 an immense advantage over the tribes which he attacked 
 in all directions from the seat of his own tribe near the 
 Bay of Islands. Besides a bloody raid to the north- 
 ward, he directed all his strength against the powerful 
 tribes which inhabited the western coast of the North 
 Island, between Kaipara and Waikato. These, driven 
 from their home, employed against weaker tribes the 
 skill and hardihood which they had acquired in resisting 
 Hongi. Those weaker tribes, again, headed by Rau- 
 peraha and other chiefs, advanced upon the northern 
 shore of Cook's Strait, crossed the sea into the Middle 
 Island, and extended their ravages as far as Otago, 
 almost exterminating the aboriginal inhabitants in their 
 progress. The waves of destruction, to which Hougi 
 with his muskets gave the first impulse, passed over 
 nearly the whole length of Xew Zealand, a distance of 
 more than seven hundred miles. The population of 
 the North Island was thinned and scattered; and that 
 of the Middle Island destroyed, with the exception of a 
 miserable remnant. 
 
 About the year 1827, some of the rough White 
 adventurers from the Australian Colonies, who had for 
 many years previously pursued the arduous life of a 
 sealer, in boats and small craft, along the coasts of the 
 Middle Island and Foveaux's Strait, were encouraged 
 to engage in the pursuit of the whale, and to form 
 establishments for that purpose on the shores of Cook's 
 Strait. They had to share in the hardships and losses 
 of the invading tribes under Rauperaha, with whom 
 they had fraternized. The expelled inhabitants made 
 many savage forays, and the European proteges took
 
 56 1831 : BRITISH RESIDENT. 
 
 part ill retaliatory measures of equal ferocity. All over 
 New Zealand, indeed, the irregular settlement of 
 Europeans, which was now making rapid progress, led 
 to numerous instances of crime for which no punish- 
 ment could be inflicted. In addition to the spectacle 
 of savage warfare in its most destructive excess, the 
 country exhibited that of perfect anarchy as respects 
 the European settlers. 
 
 Such a state of things urgently required some remedy. 
 It would be difficult to conceive one more inefficient 
 than that which was applied. In 183], a letter, apply- 
 ing for the protection of the King, William the Fourth, 
 and signed with the names or marks of thirteen Chiefs, 
 residing in the immediate neighbourhood of the Bay of 
 Islands, was transmitted to England by the Rev. Wil- 
 liam Yate, then head of the Mission in New Zealand, 
 and supported by the managers of the Church Mis- 
 sionary Society in England; and accordingly Lord 
 Groderich, then the Colonial Minister, wrote to the 
 thirteen Chiefs, granting their request in the name of 
 the King. Instructions were at the same time trans- 
 mitted to the Governor of New South Wales, which 
 induced him to appoint an officer of the British Govern- 
 ment to be " Resident" at the Bay of Islands. Mr. 
 Busby, the person so appointed, appeared, from the 
 title of his office and from the tenour of his instructions, 
 to be accredited, with something like diplomatic func- 
 tions, not to any natives, but to the missionaries inha- 
 biting the small peninsula at the northern extremity of 
 the North Island. Defined functions he had none. 
 His authority for the repression of evil was never more 
 than merely nominal. He was described as resembling 
 a man-of-war without guns. 
 
 During the years immediately following this unmean- 
 ing arrangement, the wars of the natives continued 
 with all the aggravation of destructiveness occasioned 
 by the use of tire-arms: outrages were committed by 
 the white settlers upon each other, and upon the natives,
 
 1-->0: INHKrENDKNCK PROCLAIMED. 57 
 
 and by the natives upon them: European vices and 
 disease were spread among the diminished native popu- 
 lation: and, according to the testimony of every eye- 
 witness who has given evidence upon the subject, 
 including that of the most intelligent and zealous of the 
 missionaries, the numbers of the aborigines visibly 
 decreased. At length, in 1835, another attempt was 
 made to establish some kind of authority in New Zea- 
 land. 
 
 The Baron de Thierry, before mentioned, had not 
 lu.-t ?ight of the project which he had formed at Cam- 
 bridge during the visit of Hongi and Mr. Keiidal. 
 From more than one place in the South Seas he gave 
 uut that the acquisition which Mr. Kendal had made 
 for him in 1822 amounted to a right of Sovereignty 
 over the islands, and that it was his intention speedily 
 to take possession of it. Some interest in his proceed- 
 ings had been excited in France, by means of the news- 
 paper press. Not a little alarmed at the prospect, how- 
 ever slight, of a French dominion, the leading mis- 
 sionaries now joined with the more decent of the settlers 
 at the Bay of Islands in desiring the establishment of 
 a national power in the country. But instead of ap- 
 plying to the Crown tor the full exercise of that British 
 dominion which had resulted from the acts of Cook and 
 the Government of New South "NVales, they induced 
 thirty-five Chiefs of the little northern peninsula to sign 
 a paper, by which they declared the Independence of 
 the whole ot' NV.v Zealand as one nation formed them- 
 selves into an independent state, with the title of " the 
 United Tribes of New Zealand" agreed to meet in 
 congress, " for the purpose of framing laws for the dis- 
 }H?nsation of justice," and other ends and invited the 
 southern tribes to join the "Confederation of the United 
 Tab 
 
 There cannot be the least doubt that this document 
 was composed by the missionaries at the Bay of Islands, 
 and signed by the Chiefs with as little real comprehen-
 
 58 18361837 : 
 
 sion of its meaning as had attended the signature by 
 natives of the deeds of feoffraent drawn up by Sydney 
 attorneys, with blanks for the names of places. 
 
 So little were these or any other Chiefs of New 
 Zealand capable of performing such an act as the docu- 
 ment describes, that their own language wanted the 
 most important words expressive of its purport, such as 
 independence, sovereignty, government, confederation, 
 legislative, and even a name for the country over which 
 their new authority purported to extend. This mockeiy, 
 however, was recognised by the British Govern- 
 ment; and the captain of a man-of-war, acting on behalf 
 of William the Fourth, requested the Chiefs in question 
 to select from a number of flags the one which they 
 should prefer as an emblem of national independence. 
 
 The new Government was found so unreal, that no 
 meeting of the confederated Chiefs ever took place; nor 
 was either the confederation, or the declaration of inde- 
 pendence, or the national flag, even known to any 
 natives out of the small peninsula which forms about a 
 twelfth part of the country. 
 
 Various representations were now made to the Go- 
 vernment, setting forth the evils of a continued anarchy 
 in New Zealand. The merchants of London joined in 
 a memorial, signed by the principal houses engaged in 
 the South Sea trade. A petition from the more re- 
 spectable of the white settlers in New Zealand, includ- 
 ing the principal members of the Church Mission, was 
 sent to England. But, through some influence at the 
 Colonial -office, every application was disregarded; and 
 it seemed the fixed purpose of the Government to 
 leave undisturbed the experiment of training up a na- 
 tive republic under missionary control. 
 
 In 1836, a Committee of the House of Commons, on 
 Aborigines, set before the British public, in a form to 
 make a deep impression, a grievous picture of the state 
 of things in New Zealand. 
 
 In the same year, another Committee of the House of
 
 NEW ZEALAND ASSOCIATION. 59 
 
 Commons inquired into the subject of the Disposal of 
 Waste Lands, with a view to Colonization. In the evi- 
 dence given before that Committee, New Zealand was 
 pointed out as a field peculiarly eligible for the purposes 
 of British Colonization, provided some regular system 
 should be adopted. This suggestion made a deep im- 
 pression at the time upon Mr. Francis Baring, a mem- 
 ber of the Committee, and, after the publication of the 
 Committee's Report, upon the minds of several gentle- 
 men out of doors. 
 
 In 1837, a society was formed in London, for the 
 purpose of inducing the British Government to establish 
 a sufficient authority in the islands, and to colonize 
 them according to a plan deliberately prepared with a 
 view of rendering Colonization beneficial to the native 
 inhabitants' as well as to the settlers. The Association 
 published a little book, containing as much information 
 respecting the actual state of New Zealand as was 
 attainable at the time, and developing their plan.* 
 
 The members of the Association whose position in 
 public life attracted attention to the project, and whose 
 zealous exertions ultimately saved New Zealand from 
 becoming a French penal Colony, were Mr. Francis 
 Baring (the chairman), Lord Durham, Lord Petre, 
 Mr. Bingham Baring, Mr. Campbell of Islay, Mr. 
 Charles Enderby, the munificent promoter of Antarctic 
 discovery, Mr. Ferguson of Raith, the Rev. Dr. Hinds, 
 Mr. Benjamin Hawes, Mr. Philip Howard, Mr. Wil- 
 liam Hutt, Mr. Lyall, Mr. Mackenzie, Sir William 
 Molesworth, Sir George Sinclair, Sir William Symonds, 
 Mr. Henry George Ward, and Mr. Wolryche Whit- 
 moi-e. 
 
 The Association having matured their plan, but 
 apprehensive of opposition from the Colonial Office, 
 which might nip the project in its bud, addressed them- 
 selves to the Prime Minister, Lord Melbourne, with a 
 view of obtaining the sanction of the Executive Govern- 
 
 * ' British l.'tilnni:<ition in Neir Zealand.' London. Parker, 1837.
 
 60 ASSOCIATION 
 
 merit: and they imagined themselves to have received 
 such cordial encouragement from his Lordship, as well 
 as from Lord Howick (now Earl Grey), to whom Lord 
 Melbourne referred them for the settlement of matters 
 of detail, that they felt justified in collecting a body of 
 intending Colonists as an indispensable means of carry- 
 ing out the undertaking. 
 
 Among other steps taken by the Association, were 
 two applications to the Church Missionary Society, 
 with a view of establishing a friendly feeling and active 
 co-operation between the two bodies. The first was 
 made by a deputation which waited upon Mr. Dandeson 
 Coates; by whom they were frankly informed, that, 
 " though he had no doubt of their respectability and 
 the purity of their motives, he was opposed to the 
 colonization of New Zealand in any shape, and was 
 determined to thwart them by all the means in his 
 power." The second was a letter from Dr. Hinds, in 
 behalf of his colleagues, and addressed to the Com- 
 mittee of the Society, but of which the receipt was not 
 even acknowledged. 
 
 The views of the Association were openly and 
 covertly opposed by Mr. Coates, now by a published 
 pamphlet in the form of a letter to Lord Glenelg, at 
 that time Colonial Minister, and then by a pamphlet 
 marked ' Confidential,' which was privily but exten- 
 sively circulated. These documents flatly charged the 
 members of the Association with being influenced by 
 motives of personal gain. 
 
 When it became necessary again to apply to Lord 
 Melbourne, this time for his ultimate sanction of a 
 Bill which was now ready to be submitted to Parlia- 
 ment, his lordship received a deputation from the 
 Association. Lord Glenelg was present at the inter- 
 view, and spoke on behalf of the Government. He 
 warmly censured every principle of the Association 
 which Lord Melbourne had formerly approved; and 
 above all, disclaimed any right on the part of the
 
 OF 1S37. 61 
 
 British Crown to exercise any sort or degree of autho- 
 rity in New Zealand.* 
 
 It seems more than probable, however, that the 
 Prime Minister's sense of justice was affected by the 
 remarks made to Lord Glenelg in his presence; for it 
 was presently intimated to the Association, that if some 
 of their body would wait upon Lord Glenelg in the 
 ensuing week, their application would be more favour- 
 ably received. 
 
 A number of them accordingly attended at the 
 Colonial Office, and were received by Lord Glenelg ; 
 who informed them, that very recent despatches from 
 the Resident in New Zealand, and the commander of 
 a man-of-war which had visited the coasts, had in- 
 duced II. r Majesty's Government to abandon their 
 objections' to the systematic and regulated colonization 
 of the islands; that they still objected to the instru- 
 ment of colonization proposed by the Association, 
 namely, a Board of Commissioners acting under the 
 immediate control of the Colonial Minister, as public 
 officers having no private interest in the matter; but 
 that they were prepared to grant to the Association a 
 Royal Charter of Incorporation for colonizing purposes, 
 similar to those under which the English Colonies in 
 America were established in the sixteenth and seven- 
 teenth f.'iituries. Lord Glenelg further explained, 
 that a co.: iition of the grant of a Charter would be 
 the subscription by the Association of a joint-stock 
 capital to be embarked in the undertaking. 
 
 The Association declinedf this offer, on the ground 
 
 * For a detailed description of all these negotiations, the reader 
 
 num turn to the evidence of Mr. Edward Gibbon Wakefield, before 
 
 Committee of the House of Commons on New Zealand in 
 
 1-40. The Report and Evidence of this Committee is numbered 
 
 303. and Mr. Wakefield's Evidence commences at page 1. 
 
 the Correspondence on this subject between Lord Durham 
 and Lord Glenelg in the ' Appendix to the Report of the Select 
 Committee of the House of Commons on New Zealand in the year 
 No. 303, page 14-. 
 
 G
 
 62 1838: MR. BARING'S BILL. 
 
 that its members had invariably and publicly dis- 
 claimed all views of pecuniary speculation or interest, 
 and were thereby, as well as by a continued disin- 
 lination to acquire any private concern in the national 
 work which they sought to promote, entirely precluded 
 from assenting to the proposed condition of raising a 
 joint-stock capital. 
 
 Early in 1838, a Select Committee of the House of 
 Lords was, on the motion of Lord Devon, appointed to 
 inquire into the state of New Zealand; and it collected 
 a mass of information which but too fully confirmed 
 previous representations of the deplorable condition of 
 the islands, and further exposed the necessity of sub- 
 jecting the materials of disorder to the restraints of 
 British law. 
 
 In June of the same year, Mr. Francis Baring 
 brought into the House of Commons the Bill which 
 had been prepared, and which embodied the views of 
 the Association as modified by suggestions which 
 they had received from Lord Melbourne and Lord 
 Ho wick. It was strenuously opposed by Her Majesty's 
 Ministers, and accordingly thrown out. 
 
 Among the body of intending Colonists which had 
 been collected by the Association, were several gen- 
 tlemen who had disposed of property and abandoned 
 professions with a view to emigrating. These, after 
 the defeat of Mr. Baring's Bill, determined to act upon 
 Lord Glenelg's proposal of a Charter, and exerted them- 
 selves to form a joint-stock company. By degrees 
 they were joined by many members of the now defunct 
 Association; whose anxious desire to accomplish the 
 national object which had engaged them so long, at 
 length overcame their repugnance to the condition on 
 which Lord Glenelg had insisted. Thus was formed 
 the New Zealand Land Company of 1839. 
 
 The Government, however, and the Colonial Office, 
 to which the Marquis of Normanby had now succeeded, 
 exhibited even a greater hostility to this body than to
 
 LAND COMPANY. <io 
 
 the Association which it succeeded. It only remained, 
 therefore, to adopt the views of the Colonial Office by 
 considering Xew Zealand as a foreign country, and by 
 proceeding to acquire land and form settlements in the 
 manner hitherto sanctioned by the Crown. 
 
 The new Company were thus forced into the adop- 
 tion of what has been termed land-sharking, as far as 
 acquiring lands by assignment from savages: but they 
 redeemed their reluctant compliance with this usage, 
 because the only one recognised by authority, by 
 adhering to the same systematic disposal of lands for 
 public purposes, and the same ample provisions for the 
 future benefit of the natives, which formed the leading 
 features of Mr. Baring's Bill.* In order to establish 
 a uniform system in these respects, it became requisite 
 that they should obtain control over a much larger 
 extent of land than could be required for the use of any 
 ie number of settlers for years and years to come. 
 With this view, and in accordance with the alleged 
 National Sovereignty of the native Chiefs, they resolved 
 to send an expedition to New Zealand under the 
 direction of an agent, instructed to adopt the usual 
 method of acquiring land from the natives, but if 
 possible upon a far greater scale than was ever neces- 
 sary for the purposes of cultivation or even of specu- 
 lation by individuals. This charge was confided to 
 Colonel William Wakefield. lie was further instructed 
 to select the spot which he should deem most eligible 
 as the site of a considerable Colony, and to make 
 preparations for the arrival and settlement of the 
 emigrants. 
 
 He sailed from Plymouth in a fine ship, the Tory, 
 
 * Tlie views of the projectors relating to the conduct to be 
 observed by the Colonists in amalgamating with the uath> 
 embodied in a beautiful Essay, which forms the Appendix to "Urilixh 
 Colonization / Xi-ir Xi-almul," written by the KPV. Mcntngrue 
 Huwtrey, who was one of their number, and also a member of the 
 Committee of the Church Missionary Society.
 
 64 EARLY PROCEEDINGS OF THE 
 
 well fitted out for this preliminary expedition, on the 
 12th of May, 1839. 
 
 On the 16th of September, before hearing of the 
 proceedings of the preliminary expedition, the first 
 body of the Company's emigrants sailed from Graves- 
 end in three ships, a rendezvous having been appointed 
 with Col. Wakefield for the 10th January, 1840, at 
 Port Hardy, in Cook's Strait, a known good harbour. 
 
 The circumstances of their departure were striking, 
 and in many of the spectators awakened thoughts of 
 the embarkation of " the Pilgrim Fathers," in the time 
 of Charles the First. The Directors of the Company, 
 having no belief in the existence of any settled govern- 
 ment in New Zealand, had attempted to provide a sub- 
 stitute. With this view, they visited each ship in 
 succession to obtain from the emigrants a voluntary 
 agreement to a simple but comprehensive system of 
 regulations for the maintenance of order, and establish- 
 ing a machinery for the administration and enforce- 
 ment of British law. The articles were subscribed 
 openly on the deck of each ship of the expedition, 
 amid enthusiastic cheers and discharges of cannon. 
 
 A British Government in posse, had, however, been 
 already provided for New Zealand, while the Land 
 Company were making their arrangements. From 
 about the middle of December, 1838, a correspondence 
 had been in progress between the Foreign and Colonial 
 Offices, the Admiralty, and the Treasury, with a view 
 to devise some method of establishing law and order in 
 New Zealand. In August, 1839, matters were so far 
 advanced, that Captain Hobson, R.N. received a com- 
 mission as Consul, and "eventual Lieutenant- Govern or" 
 of New Zealand, under the Governor of New South 
 Wales, if he should succeed in obtaining the cession of 
 the Sovereignty of any part of the islands to the British 
 Crown. The agreement among the settlers was, of 
 course, not followed up. 
 
 The preliminary expedition of the New Zealand
 
 I. A.M. COMPANY, 1839-40. G5 
 
 Laud Company reached Cook's Strait on the 17th ot" 
 August, 1839. At the time of Colonel Wakefield's 
 arrival, the British settlers in New Zealand scarcely 
 amounted to 1000 in all; of whom about 500 were 
 settled in the Northern Peninsula, and about as many 
 on Cook's Strait, at Banks's Peninsula, or further South. 
 The Church of England Missionaries had settlements 
 at the Bay of Islands, and a short way inland, and in 
 the Valley of the Thames. The "Wesleyan Missionaries 
 had stations on the Hokianga and Kaipara. AVhalers 
 and sealers had founded the irregular Settlements in the 
 central and southern parts. In addition to these, who 
 might be reckoned settlers of some standing, a growing 
 belief that the British Government contemplated a 
 settlement in New Zealand, had attracted a number of 
 land-speculators from Sydney. 
 
 Colonel Wakefield experienced some attempts at ob- 
 struction from the Sydney land-speculators. The more 
 respectable whalers favoured his views, while others of 
 their class tried to frustrate them. But the most 
 strenuous opposition he experienced was from the 
 Church Missionaries, who despatched a vessel with one 
 of their body for the purpose of warning the natives 
 against the New Zealand Land Company, and obtain- 
 ing a right of pre-emption before Colonel Wake- 
 field could effect any purchases. Colonel Wakefield 
 was induced to select Cook's Strait as the scene of 
 the Company's operations, partly by the superior eligi- 
 bility of that district, partly by its remoteness from the 
 irregular settlements in the North. He found the na- 
 ttaching little value to their lands, and anxious 
 to procure a share in the advantage which the northern 
 tribes had derived from traffic with the whites who had 
 settled among them. After deliberate and protracted 
 negotiations with the Chiefs of all the tribes on Cook's 
 Sti\iit, interrupted occasionally by the wavward pas- 
 sions of some of the more ferocious Chiefs, and the 
 jealousies which Sydney land-speculators, whalers, and 
 c 2
 
 66 1840: TREATY OF WAITANGI. 
 
 missionaries, had instilled, Colonel Wakefield obtained 
 a formal cession, signed by all the principal Chiefs, of 
 their rights to the land on both sides of the Strait, as 
 far north as a line drawn from Kawia to Point Turn- 
 again, and as far south as the 43rd parallel of south 
 latitude. The emigrants who sailed from Grave.send 
 in September, 1839, were received at Port Nicholson 
 with open arms by the natives, early in 1840. 
 
 Consul and "eventual Lieutenant- Governor" Hobson 
 reached Sydney nearly at the same time that the Com- 
 pany's first body of emigrants arrived at Port Nichol- 
 son. At Sydney, Captain Hobson was furnished by 
 the Governor, Sir George Gipps, with a staff of civil 
 officers and advances of money to commence operations. 
 Thus provided, he arrived in the Bay of Islands about 
 the end of January, 1840. 
 
 Early in February, Captain Hobson met assemblies 
 of the natives at Waitangi (in the Bay of Islands) and 
 Hokianga, and induced them to agree to the Treaty 
 which has been named after the former place. The 
 missionaries, and some of the gentlemen attached to 
 Captain Hobson's civil staff by the Governor of New 
 South Wales, were despatched to different parts of the 
 islands to procure the adhesion of all the tribes; but 
 long before the signatures of that portion of the Chiefs 
 who eventually signed the Treaty were obtained, the 
 Sovereignty of the British Crown over New Zealand 
 was formally proclaimed by the Governor. 
 
 In little more than a month after his arrival in New 
 Zealand, Governor Hobson suffered from a paralytic 
 attack; from which, there is reason to believe, he never 
 entirely recovered. The government was carried on 
 from that time till the arrival of Governor Fitzroy, in 
 December, 1843, by his Colonial Secretary, Lieutenant 
 Shortland, the gentlemen from Sydney, and Mr. Clarke, 
 a missionary catechist, who had been appointed Protector 
 of Aborigines. For the seat of government, Captain 
 Hobson selected what is now Auckland; though there
 
 BRITISH SOVEREIGNTY PROCLAIMED. 67 
 
 was not a single British settler there, and the place is 
 distant loO miles from the nearest northern settlement, 
 and 600 miles bj sea from the settlements in Cook's 
 Strait. The limited means of the new Government 
 rendered its influence, except for the collecting of 
 customs-duties, entirely unfeit beyond its immediate 
 neighbourhood. 
 
 If the Auckland Government was ineffective in the 
 northern settlements, its influence was still less felt in 
 the more distant settlements on Cook's Strait. For 
 eight months, the only visit the settlers of Wellington 
 received from the authorities at Auckland was in the 
 person of Lieutenant Shortland, sent with some soldiers 
 and mounted police to suppress the Council chosen by 
 the settlers to administer amongst themselves a substi- 
 tute tor law in the absence of a regular Government. 
 He was received with obedience and submission by the 
 settlors; but the appearance of the soldiers left an im- 
 pression on the minds of the Aborigines that the Queen's 
 Government was hostile to the settlers, and that the 
 latter were uuwarlike. 
 
 :its had occurred in Europe, subsequently to the 
 departure of Governor Hobson, which materially modi- 
 fied the Home Government's views of New Zealand 
 policy. The publication of Captain Hobson's instruc- 
 tions, containing a virtual disclaimer of British Sove- 
 reignty in New Zealand, had roused the emulation of 
 France to take part in the colonization of those islands. 
 The precursors of a French penal settlement on Banks's 
 Peninsula sailed from France in November, 1839. In- 
 structions were transmitted to Sir George Gipps, to 
 accelerate whatever measures might have been adopted 
 for annexing the islands of New Zealand to the British 
 Crown. They were barely in time. Major Bunbury 
 had proclaimed the Sovereignty of England in the South 
 and Middle Islands in June, and Lieutenant-Governor 
 Hobson in the North Island a few weeks earlier; but 
 the British flag was hoisted aud British court* held for
 
 (>8 1840: NEW ZEALAND COMPANY. 
 
 the first time at Akaroa by Captain Stanley, whom Sir 
 George Gipps had despatched for that purpose, only 
 four days before the arrival of the French expedition. 
 
 The danger of French interference in New Zealand 
 roused the apprehensions of the great merchants and 
 bankers of London. They held a meeting at Guild- 
 hall, on the loth of April, 1840, at which a petition to 
 Parliament was proposed and carried, urging the adop- 
 tion of measures to preserve those islands to the British 
 Crown. This petition, presented and supported by 
 Lord Eliot (now Earl of St. Germains), was referred 
 by the House of Commons to a Committee. A Report, 
 favourable to the views of the petitioners, was moved 
 in the Committee by Mr. Hutt, and supported by Mr. 
 G. W. Hope (afterwards Lord Stanley's Under Secre- 
 tary of State for the Colonies), but it was rejected 
 through the influence of the official members Lord 
 Howick, Messrs. Vernon Smith, and Robert Stewart. 
 Though Government, however, obtained the suppres- 
 sion of this report, they appear to have acted on its 
 suggestions. Lord John Russell (who had succeeded 
 Lord Normanby as Colonial Secretary) showed, not 
 long after, that he could appreciate the importance of 
 the Company as an instrument for accelerating the 
 settlement of the new Province. Negotiations were 
 commenced, which terminated, in November, 1840, in 
 the offer of a Charter to the New Zealand Company, 
 then first so called, on these main conditions, the 
 Company was to waive all claims to lands in New Zea- 
 land on the ground of purchases from the Aborigines, 
 and was to receive from the Crown a free grant of four 
 times as many acres as it could prove it had expended 
 pounds sterling for the purposes of colonization. This 
 offer was accepted. The Charter was issued on the 
 12th of February, 1841; the Company's capital fixed 
 at 300,OOOZ., whereof two-thirds were to be paid up 
 within the year; and an accountant was named to in- 
 vestigate their expenditure.
 
 COLONIZATION. GOVERNOR HOBSON. 69 
 
 The period to which the preceding narrative relates 
 may bo called the ante-colonial period of New Zealand 
 history. The history of New Zealand as a British 
 ( 'olony may be held to commence from the proclamation 
 of British Sovereignty in the islands, by Captain Hob- 
 son, in May, 1840. The islands continued a Dependency 
 of New South Wales till May, 1841, when they were 
 proclaimed a separate Colony under an independent Go- 
 vernment. A few months before this event, Governor 
 Hobson had established himself, with the Government- 
 officers, at Auckland. 
 
 On the strength of their agreement with Lord John 
 Russell, the Company resumed their operations with 
 great vigour. Besides the Settlement of Wellington, 
 the Company had founded, in February, 1841, the 
 Settlements of Petre, on the Wanganui river, and New 
 Plymouth, near the Sugar-Loaf Islands. After ob- 
 taining their Charter, they continued to colonize at 
 these three Settlements, and, moreover, planned the 
 foundation of a fourth, called Nelson. After some ob- 
 struction from Governor Hobson and his officials, it 
 was planted in October, 1841, on a site chosen at the 
 head of Blind Bay, by Captain Arthur Wakefield, who 
 commanded a preliminary expedition of three ships, 
 carrying a surveying-staff, &c., which had been fitted 
 out by the Company for the express purpose. Emi- 
 grant ships succeeded; and active colonization was thus 
 in progress on both shores of Cook's Strait. 
 
 Legislation was still carried on entirely at Auckland, 
 by the Governor and a Council composed of four officials 
 and three non-official nominees, removable at his plea- 
 sure. The executive government of the Company's 
 Settlements was entirely managed at each place by a 
 Stipendiary Magistrate, irresponsible for any of his acts 
 or omissions except to the Governor at Auckland. 
 
 About the same time as the agreement between the 
 Company and the Government, Dr. George Augustus 
 Selwyn was appointed Bishop of New Zealand, and,
 
 70 1841 : BISHOP. NATIVE RIGHTS. 
 
 with a suite of clergymen, sailed for his diocese, by 
 way of Sydney, in the end of 1841, having been con- 
 secrated on the 1 7th October of that year. He arrived 
 at Auckland on the 29th May, 1842. He appointed 
 Clergymen to reside at Wellington, Nelson, and New 
 Plymouth; but afterwards devoted his attention prin- 
 cipally to the foundation of a College near the missionary 
 establishments in the north, and to superintending the 
 Church Missionaries in the conversion of the large 
 native population in that part of the Colony. He made 
 but few and very short visits to the Settlements in 
 Cook's Strait, and to the Middle and Stewart's Islands.* 
 
 Under Governor Hobson, the community of New 
 Zealand may be regarded as composed of three sections 
 or parties. 
 
 The first were the Aborigines; to whom the ap- 
 pointment of a Protector, representing them at the 
 seat of government, and assumed to speak their senti- 
 ments and assert their interests, gave the coherence 
 and weight of a political party. Their representative 
 maintained on their behalf 1st, That previously to the 
 assumption of the Sovereignty of New Zealand by the 
 British Crown, the tribes or Chiefs possessed an abso- 
 lute right of Sovereignty over the whole of the islands, 
 and a perfect right of property in all the lands: 2nd, 
 That though the Treaty of Waitangi had transferred the 
 territorial Sovereignty from the Chiefs and tribes to the 
 British Crown, it reserved to the natives the privilege 
 of being governed immediately by their own Chiefs, 
 according to their old customs;! and to the tribes and 
 Chiefs an absolute right of property in all the lauds of 
 the islands, which they could only alienate to the Crown. 
 
 The second party was composed of the old settlers, lay 
 
 * The interesting journals of the Bishop, since his arrival in his 
 diocese, have been published in a very cheap and compact form by the 
 Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts. They 
 are to be found in certain numbers of the " Church in Ilic Colonies" 
 and in "Annuls of the Colonial Church ; Xctr Zmlund Diocese." 
 
 + This view is utterly unsupported by any clause or word in the 
 Treaty.
 
 J.\.\n-SiIAKK>. CONTROVERSIES. 71 
 
 and missionary, in the northern parts of the North 
 Island, and the adventurers who had been recently 
 attracted thither by the prospect of its becoming a 
 British Dependency. Most of these claimed an absolute 
 right of property in lands more or less extensive, which 
 had been ceded to them before the proclamation of 
 British Sovereignty, by Chiefs or tribes, for considera- 
 tions more or less valuable. The greater number of 
 the missionaries had been gradually laying the founda- 
 tion of such claims during their residence of a quarter of 
 a century in the land. So had the old-established wood- 
 cutters on the Hokianga and in the vicinity of Wangaroa, 
 and the traders of the Bay of Islands. The acquisitions 
 of the lately-arrived adventurers were mere land-shark- 
 ing transactions, which they hoped to induce the new 
 Government to recognise. But all these classes con- 
 curred in asserting that the land-rights to which they 
 laid claim were absolute; that Government, injustice, 
 was bound to recognise them in full, equally with those 
 of the natives, on the ground of their having been 
 already in existence at the establishment of British 
 authority. 
 
 The third party was composed of the settlers on 
 C ink's Strait, and the New Zealand Company, from 
 whom their land-titles were derived. Their claims 
 ; on the Crown grant promised by Lord John 
 Russell. Their views of the actual state of property 
 in land in the islands, at first somewhat vague, gradu- 
 ally assumed a more definite form, but never materially 
 varied. Before the establishment of British Sovereignty, 
 they had accepted from the native tribes and Chiefs 
 such rights of property in land as they believed them 
 capable of conveying. After the establishment of 
 British Sovereignty, they held that the property of all 
 waste lands ought to vest in the Crown, to be admi- 
 nistered for the common good. They believed that the 
 Crown might either claim the wastes as a necessary 
 appanage of Sovereignty, or obtain a cession of what- 
 ever rights the natives might claim in them, for a
 
 72 CONTROVERSIES BETWEEN 
 
 moderate equivalent; but in either case, they main- 
 tained that the disposal of waste lands should be vested 
 exclusively in the Crown. They further maintained, 
 that in order to prevent the acquisition by individuals 
 of tracts of land so large as to obstruct the progress of 
 settlement and cultivation, the Crown should dispose 
 of the waste lands by sale alone; that the proceeds of 
 the land-sales should be mainly devoted to providing a 
 supply of immigrant-labour to the Colony; and that, as 
 an act of justice to the Aborigines, a certain proportion 
 of the waste lands should be reserved for their exclusive 
 use in perpetuity. 
 
 In a wish to respect the interests of the natives, the 
 views of the missionaries, especially the managers in 
 England, and of the New Zealand Company and its 
 settlers in the Colony, approximated pretty closely. But 
 the theoretical views of the home directors of the Mission 
 respecting the pernicious effects of colonization on un- 
 civilized tribes, and their horror at the irregularities of 
 a large proportion of the early settlers in New Zealand, 
 had, without due discrimination, been extended to the 
 Company and its Colonists. The alienation thus gene- 
 rated, was widened by the material interests of the resi- 
 dent missionaries; the peculiar nature of whose claims 
 to land gave them a common interest with the old lay 
 settlers and the " land-sharks," to whom they were 
 otherwise strongly opposed. On the other hand, the 
 missionaries, by their original relations with the natives, 
 and by the appointment of one of their number to be 
 Protector of Aborigines, were identified with the native 
 party. The position of the missionaries as teachers 
 enabled them as a body to influence the native mind to 
 a certain extent; while at the same time the necessity 
 of preserving their influence over the natives often 
 obliged them to defer to the passions and prejudices of 
 their pupils. 
 
 The local position of the Government at Auckland 
 would of itself have been sufficient to give a prepon-
 
 GOVERNMENT AND COMPANY. 73 
 
 derating influence to the native party, and the party of 
 the northern settlers. This influence was strengthened 
 by the official character of the Protector of Aborigines, 
 and by the implication of a majority of the officers of the 
 Local Government in land-sharking speculations. The 
 views of the Local Government were naturally received 
 with favour at the Colonial Office; and the views of 
 the missionaries in New Zealand were strenuously sup- 
 ported by the London office-bearers of the Mission. 
 One fatal consequence of this state of affairs was the 
 frustration of every attempt to have the rights of 
 property in land, and the management of waste-lands, 
 definitely settled and subjected to an uniform plan. 
 These ends were urged by the New Zealand Company, 
 of whose original scheme of colonization they formed a 
 part. They were thwarted by the northern land- 
 claimants, lay and missionary, who aimed at secur- 
 ing large tracts of land for themselves. At first, 
 the Government here appeared inclined to adopt the 
 of the Company, and to take upon itself that 
 charge of disposing of the waste-lands for the common 
 good, of which the Company had denuded itself, after 
 the recognition of the Crown's authority. But the 
 influences brought to bear upon the Government caused 
 the discussion of those points between the Company and 
 the Colonial Office to assume a controversial form. 
 The peculiar temper of Lord Stanley, who held office 
 throughout the greater part of the time during which 
 this controversy was in progress, at once tended to 
 render it more vehement and to procrastinate a final 
 decision. 
 
 The Missionary construction of the Treaty of Waitangi 
 was supported generally by the northern settlers, and 
 by those who claimed to be the peculiar friends of the 
 natives. Some adopted this construction with a sincere 
 desire to promote the native interests; others from an 
 idea that it was the most favourable to their own 
 claims. This construction was opposed by the Cook's 
 H
 
 74 1843. OBSTACLES TO PROGRESS. 
 
 Strait settlers, as incompatible with the plan of vesting 
 in the Crown a title to waste-lands that would enable 
 it to administer them for the common good, and as 
 tending to procrastinate the settlement of the land- 
 claims. The representations of the former party were 
 successful; and Commissioners of Land-Claims, ap- 
 pointed to investigate all titles, acted in general con- 
 formity to their views. The delay occasioned by the 
 complicated inquiries hence arising, apprehended by 
 the New Zealand Company, was realized. Other 
 delays occurred from the procrastination of the Com- 
 missioners and the pedantic technicality of their pro- 
 ceedings. Great oppression was also caused by their 
 exorbitant fees. The extravagant expectations of gain 
 inspired into the minds of the natives by these imper- 
 fectly-understood proceedings completed the mischief. 
 All rights of property in land were left unsettled. 
 Cultivation was arrested; resources were wasted. The 
 evil was increased by the large expenditure of the 
 Local Government; and this cause of complaint was 
 aggravated by the circumstance that the revenue was 
 principally derived from those settlements which are at 
 a distance from the seat of government, and which 
 received little benefit from its expenditure. The 
 Government, which cost so much, was found entirely 
 inefficient. The irritation produced among the natives 
 by the unsettled state of the land-question instigated 
 them to acts of violence, which the Local Government 
 proved utterly powerless either to prevent or to redress. 
 Emboldened by the apathy of the Government, two 
 Chiefs, Rauperaha and Rangihaeata, with their fol- 
 lowers, massacred a number of Magistrates and others 
 in the execution of the law at Wairau, near Cloudy 
 Bay; and those murders were not even judicially in- 
 vestigated. 
 
 In England, the action of the Home Government 
 was in a great measure confined to defending or 
 apologizing for the acts of the Government in New 
 Zealand, and in staving off applicants for redress by
 
 GOVERNOR FITZROY. 75 
 
 referring to the Local Government to decide upon 
 almost every appb'cation made to the Office in Downing- 
 street. 
 
 The utmost that Lord Stanley would concede to the 
 Company, was the promise of a conditional grant of 
 the quantity of land claimed by them under Lord John 
 Russell's agreement of 1840. Captain Fitzroy, R.N., 
 sent in 1843 to succeed Governor Hobson, who died 
 at Auckland in September, 1842, was instructed to 
 issue at once to the Company a prima facie grant of 
 the said land, subject only to be invalidated by proof of 
 a better title on the part of natives or others. 
 
 The embarrassments of the Colonists now reacted on 
 the great colonizing body in this country. The New 
 Zealand Company, finding their income continually 
 decreasing, and their expenditure increasing, in conse- 
 quence of the unsettled state of the Colony, were obliged 
 first to contract, and ultimately to suspend their opera- 
 tions. On having recourse to so extreme a measure, 
 it was necessary to give the country the means of 
 judging between them and the Government, by whose 
 conduct they had been reduced to such straits. The 
 best means of accomplishing this appeared to be an 
 appeal for Parliamentary inquiry; and an appeal having 
 been made to the House of Commons, a Select Com- 
 mittee was appointed in 1844. 
 
 In the meanwhile, Captain Fitzroy entered upon the 
 discharge of his office as Governor about Christmas, 
 1843. Under his rule, no improvement took place in 
 the spirit and manner of administering the government 
 of the Colony. Like his predecessor, instead of govern- 
 ing and guiding Englishmen in a noble enterprise, he 
 merged the duties of Governor in those of Sub- 
 Protector of Aborigines. At his first visit to Cook's 
 Strait, he took advantage of his position to make 
 insulting public attacks on gentlemen who had opposed 
 the Missionary views, and the preceding acts of the 
 Local Government. At Nelson, he declared his inten- 
 tion to exclude from the new Commission of the Peace
 
 76 1844. FITZROY'S BLUNDERS. 
 
 the Justices who had, on sworn informations, signed 
 the warrant for arresting Rauperaha and Rangihaeata; 
 and told the settlers, before hearing them, that his mind 
 was made up to have no judicial inquiry into the 
 Wairau massacre. At Kapiti, after hearing Rau- 
 peraha's artful account of the affair, and it only, he 
 repeated his determination to have no inquiry; and told 
 the natives to be guided by " their true friends the 
 Missionaries, the Native Protectors, and the Govern- 
 ment officers," thus virtually advising suspicion and 
 enmity towards the settlers. 
 
 On the 26th March, 1844, he issued a proclamation 
 intimating his consent " to waive the Queen's right of 
 preemption over certain limited portions of land in New 
 Zealand." About the same time, he said in a speech to 
 the Northern Chiefs " The Queen has heard of your 
 wish to sell lands to Europeans, without in the first 
 place selling them to her representative: and her Ma- 
 jesty has authorized me to inquire among you, and 
 make arrangements more pleasing to yourselves." 
 "When Captain Fitzroy, before leaving England, had 
 asked permission to take this step of waiving the 
 Queen's right of preemption, he had been directed to 
 make inquiries on his arrival in the Colony, report any 
 suggestions that might occur to him, and wait the 
 decision of the Government. He proceeded, however, 
 at once to allow purchases to be made from the natives 
 by private individuals, on payment of, in some instances, 
 ten shillings, in others, one penny per acre: thus acting 
 in direct opposition to Acts of Parliament, which forbid 
 that the waste lands of the Crown in the Colony be 
 alienated at a lower price than twenty shillings per acre. 
 
 Lord Stanley reminded Governor Fitzroy in a public 
 despatch, that he had been directed " to make to the 
 Company's agents a conditional grant of the lands 
 selected by them." But, encouraged by vague instruc- 
 tions from Lord Stanley, which were not made public 
 till long afterwards, he applied his own interpretation 
 to the conditions of the promised grant, and, far from
 
 REPORT OF COMMITTEE. 77 
 
 obeying this direction, refused to issue any grant what- 
 ever, until the Company's agent should have made an 
 additional payment to the natives, nearly fifty per cent, 
 higher than the entire price paid by the Government 
 for the site of the Capital and other places. 
 
 In May, Governor Fitzroy announced to the Legis- 
 lative Council at Auckland, his scheme of " ways and 
 means." He proposed to replenish his empty treasury 
 by new taxes and an issue of debentures. Among the 
 new taxes, were duties on all agricultural stock intro- 
 duced into the Colony, and a tax on all houses contain- 
 ing more than three rooms. The debentures were 
 issued for sums as low as half-a-crown, and were 
 declared legal tender. In the course of the debates on 
 these financial measures, Governor Fitzroy maintained 
 that members of Council had no right to protest against 
 the decision of the majority; and warned one of the non- 
 official members, that as he (the Governor) had placed 
 him in the Council, he could also eject him from it. 
 
 Soon afterwards, in obedience to the rebellious de- 
 mands of some of the Northern natives, who had been 
 urged to make them by interested white adventurers, 
 he abolished all customs' duties throughout the islands, 
 and attempted to collect a graduated property and 
 income tax. 
 
 Thus the action of the Government, both at home 
 and in the Colony, was throughout obstructive. 
 
 The Committee of the House of Commons consisted 
 of fifteen Members. Lord Howick was the Chairman; 
 but ten of the Members were habitual supporters of 
 the existing Government. They reported strongly in 
 favour of the Company's claims, and against the Go- 
 vernment. They prefaced this verdict with a repri- 
 mand to the Company for "irregular and improper" 
 conduct in commencing operations in defiance of the 
 Government: but it is generally allowed that this 
 " irregular and improper" conduct preserved New Zea- 
 land to Britain. 
 
 H2
 
 78 DEBATE OF 1845. 
 
 Petitions from the Company, and from some of the 
 Colonists sojourning in England, setting forth their 
 respective grievances, were presented during the suc- 
 ceeding Session of Parliament (1845). Several debates 
 took place on the subject, the cause of the Company 
 and the Colonists being chiefly conducted by Mr. 
 Charles Buller (now President of the Poor Law Board.) 
 
 The principal debate arose on a motion by that 
 gentleman to the effect that the House should adopt the 
 resolutions of the Committee. It occupied three con- 
 secutive nights, the 17th, 18th, and 19th of June; 173 
 voted for, and 228 against, the motion. In the course 
 of this debate, however, Lord Howick and Lord John 
 Russell stated with great energy, that they concurred 
 in the views of the Company and of the Cook's Strait 
 settlers, as to the construction of the Treaty of Wai- 
 tangi; and also, that Lord John Russell's intention in 
 1840, had been to give the Company an unconditional 
 grant of the land to which they could prove a title in 
 virtue of their expenditure on colonization, and not a 
 grant as promised by Lord Stanley, and offered by 
 Governor Fitzroy, conditional on extinguishing the 
 native title, all claims derived from which the Company 
 had expressly abandoned at the time of the agreement. 
 Sir Robert Peel and Sir James Graham made earnest 
 declarations of the intention of Ministers to act with 
 promptness and decision in remedying the principal 
 evils complained of. 
 
 Governor Fitzroy had been recalled, in consequence 
 of his financial absurdities, which transgressed against 
 express instructions from the Colonial Office, and of his 
 land-regulations, which infringed Acts of Parliament. 
 In the meanwhile, however, his vacillating pusillanimity 
 towards the natives had provoked an aggressive warfare 
 on their part, in the course of which the British troops 
 sent from New South Wales were disgracefully worsted, 
 the earliest British settlement at the Bay of Islands was 
 plundered and destroyed, and the out-settlers near Wel- 
 lington attacked and robbed, with some loss of life, by
 
 PROMISES OF MINISTERS. 79 
 
 parties of marauders directed by Eauperaha and Ran- 
 gihaeata. Captain Grey, then Governor of South Aus- 
 tralia, had been appointed successor to Governor Fitzroy. 
 
 The substance of the remedies promised by Ministers 
 wu> that effective measures should be taken for the 
 military defence of the Colonists; that they should re- 
 ceive local Municipal institutions, with some view to 
 future Representative government; and that Lord Stan- 
 ley's qualified agreement of 1843 should be at once 
 completely carried out, so as at least to give the Com- 
 pany a priina facie title to the lands which they claimed, 
 subject to proof of a better title by any rival claimant. 
 
 Up to Christmas, 1845, however, when Sir Robert 
 Peel resigned the Ministry for a few days, and then re- 
 sumed it with the substitution of Mr. Gladstone for 
 Lord Stanley as Colonial Minister, nothing had been 
 done towards realizing the expectations held out, be- 
 yond the augmentation of military and naval force in 
 the Colony. An unmeaning arrangement had indeed 
 been made, with the assistance of Mr. Lefevre (Secre- 
 tary of the Board of Trade) as a kind of friendly arbi- 
 trator, which saved the Company from bankruptcy by 
 a Government loan of 100,0007., and postponed the 
 decision of all other questions. This was considered a 
 mere suspension of hostilities. 
 
 In February, 1846, the New Zealand Company 
 suggested to Mr. Gladstone the adoption of an improved 
 policy for the future Colonization of New Zealand. 
 They recommended the immediate abandonment of the 
 attempt to enforce British law throughout the islands, 
 which, it was now evident, would require a very large 
 force; and proposed that the Colony should be at once 
 divided between Municipal districts, each with its own 
 British institutions for self-government, to be formed 
 round such of the existing Settlements as could be 
 cheaply protected, and Exceptional districts, in which 
 the native customs should be allowed to prevail until 
 the natives themselves might sue for the privilege of 
 British law and protection. They, moreover, pointed
 
 80 1845-6. CONSTITUTION ACT. 
 
 out the expediency of effecting such a reform by means 
 of a Company with a Proprietary Charter, similar to 
 those under which most of our North American Colo- 
 nies were founded in the seventeenth century. 
 
 At the end of May, 1846, Mr. Gladstone having up 
 to that time made no progress in the adjustment of the 
 questions at issue, the Company determined to wind up 
 their affairs, and to claim from the Government com- 
 pensation for the losses incurred, in case Parliament 
 should separate without passing a law for reforming the 
 government of the Colony, as had been promised. 
 
 This determination was communicated to Sir Robert 
 Peel and Mr. Gladstone; but still nothing was done 
 before the change of Ministry, in June. In July, 
 similar representations were urged upon Lord John 
 Russell, and upon Earl Grey, who had become Colonial 
 Minister; but with the renewed suggestion of a Com- 
 pany with a Proprietary Charter. In the course of the 
 session, an Act was passed,* enabling her Majesty to 
 grant a Constitution of a certain nature, by means of 
 Orders in Council; and such hopes were held out to 
 the Company of a satisfactory adjustment of their 
 grievances, as induced them to resume their operations. 
 
 Governor Grey arrived at Auckland in the end of 
 1 845, and began his career by energetic measures for 
 enforcing British law, and for conquering the rebellious 
 natives throughout the Colony. He also displayed un- 
 ceasing activity in visiting the different Settlements, 
 and a great anxiety to remedy in some measure the 
 evils which had accumulated under the mismanagement 
 of his predecessors. By a due mixture of conciliation 
 and firmness he commanded respect from the natives, 
 even before he had completely succeeded in subduing 
 them: while, by his affable demeanour and a more 
 equitable distribution of an increased Government ex- 
 penditure among all the Settlements, he also acquired 
 the admiration of the Cook's Strait Colonists. Among 
 other useful ameliorations, he abolished the office of 
 * Otli & 10th Viet., chap. 103.
 
 GOVERNOR GREY. 81 
 
 Native Protector; constructed military roads and other 
 public works, by which many natives as well as Eu- 
 ropeans were employed, in the neighbourhood of Wel- 
 lington and Auckland; and refused to acknowledge the 
 validity of extensive claims made by some of the land- 
 shark class to vast tracts, which they had purchased at 
 a nominal price from the natives when the Crown's 
 right of preemption had been waived by Governor 
 Fitzroy. The last measure, however, procured him 
 the inveterate opposition of the land-sharks, manifested 
 by the exertion of direct as well as indirect influence 
 among the natives, to make them believe that their 
 rights, under the Treaty of Waitangi, were infringed 
 by it: and thus, in many places, the native mal-con- 
 tents seemed to be but temporarily tranquillized. 
 
 Colonel Wakefield had succeeded, after several 
 months of negotiation, in obtaining the sanction of an 
 officer, appointed by Governor Fitzroy, to his purchase 
 from the natives of a block of 400,000 acres in the 
 neighbourhood of Otago, near the south-east corner of 
 the Middle Island: and a Crown grant of that block 
 was issued to the Company on the 13th of April, 1846. 
 On the receipt of this intelligence, an Association of 
 Members of the Free Kirk of Scotland, who had 
 for several years projected the foundation of a Settle- 
 ment under the auspices of the Company, but had con- 
 stantly declined to proceed until assured of a Crown 
 title to their land, of efficient military protection, and of 
 local institutions conferring a certain degree of self- 
 government on the Colonists, prepared to carry out their 
 undertaking. The Company caused the whole block to 
 be surveyed, as required by the Association, in the 
 course of the year 1846: and, the new Charter, Orders 
 in Council, and Royal Instructions, granting Xe\v Zea- 
 land a Constitution,* in pursuance of the Act 9 and 10 
 Vkt.. cap. 103, having been at length issued by Lord 
 
 These documents are contained in the " Papers on AVtr Zealand, 
 1-47. Correspondence with Governor Grey, pretrnltd to both 
 House*, in continual ion of Paper* presented 26/A Avytttt, 1846."
 
 82 1846-7. OTAGO SETTLEMENT. 
 
 Grey in the end of that year, the first party of Colonists 
 concluded their preparations, and left this country for 
 Otago in two ships, which sailed from London and 
 Greenock respectively, in the end of 1 847. Several other 
 Colonists have followed them in succeeding ships. 
 
 In the despatches and instructions authorizing 
 Governor Grey to carry out the new order of things, 
 Lord Grey very distinctly enunciated that construction 
 of the Treaty of Waitangi which assumes that all 
 waste and unoccupied lands in New Zealand are the 
 property of the Crown, and that the Crown has the sole 
 right to administer them for the benefit of all Her 
 Majesty's subjects, whether aborigines or Colonists. 
 The Bishop of New Zealand, as "the head of the 
 Church missionaries," protested strongly against this 
 doctrine, on the publication of the documents in the 
 Colony. His Lordship was reprimanded by Lord Grey 
 for the tone and tenor of his protest. The Wesleyan 
 missionaries also addressed a protest, similar in sub- 
 stance, to Lord Grey. Lord Grey's answer dis- 
 claims any intention of infringing the rights of the 
 natives. Governor Grey in his despatches expressed 
 a fear lest the course adopted by the Bishop might 
 cause renewed disturbances among the natives. But 
 this expectation does not seem to have been realized. 
 
 In April, 1847, Lord Grey concluded an agreement 
 (afterwards sanctioned by the Act 10 & 11 Viet. cap. 
 1 12) with the New Zealand Company, of which the prin- 
 cipal conditions were: that the Company should obtain 
 from Government a loan of 136,0007. (in addition to 
 the 100,0007, already lent), and should pay 15007. a 
 year to a Commissioner appointed by Government to 
 sanction the expenditure of the money; and that if, in 
 three years from the date of the agreement, the Com- 
 pany should find it impossible to continue its operations, 
 its assets and liabilities should be handed over on 
 certain conditions to the Government. 
 
 In January, 1846, Colonel McCleverty had been
 
 GOVERNMENT ARRANGEMENTS. 83 
 
 despatched as a Commissioner, for the avowed purpose 
 of expediting and facilitating a final Crown grant of 
 the Company's lands on both sides of Cook's Strait, so 
 often claimed and promised, but so long withheld. 
 This appointment, however, was unfortunately coupled 
 with that of deputy Quarter- Master general to the 
 troops; and moreover, on his arrival, Colonel McCle- 
 verty found himself the senior military officer in the 
 Colony. It was therefore many months before he 
 applied himself to investigate the state of the land 
 question. Further delay consequently occurred: Go- 
 vernor Grey appearing to imagine that the whole 
 question would be peremptorily decided by the Colonial 
 Minister, while the Colonial Office continued to assure 
 the weary Applicants on the subject, that Governor 
 Grey was believed to have settled it in the Colony. 
 
 At length, in April, 1847, the Governor gave the 
 immediate relatives of Rauperaha and Rangihaeata 
 1600/. on account of the purchase of two disputed dis- 
 tricts on either side of Cook's Strait, promising them 
 34007. more in yearly instalments in case of their good 
 behaviour. By accounts received, dated in March last, it 
 appears that Crown grants of the Wellington and Porirua 
 districts, amounting in all to 278,000 acres, had at 
 length been actually given to the Company's Agent; and 
 news may soon be expected of the same thing having 
 been done with respect to Nelson and New Plymouth. 
 
 A kind of guerilla warfare had preceded this ar- 
 rangement, in the course of which the naval and 
 military forces, ably assisted by bodies of police and 
 militia formed of the younger settlers, and by native 
 allies, had been generally successful in forcing those 
 who remained in a state of rebellion to evacuate 
 the country neighbouring to Wellington. Rauperaha 
 had been captured by a boat's crew of sailors, and kept 
 prisoner for many months on board a man-of-war; but 
 Rangihaeata had escaped into the mountains with a 
 small following. 
 
 Subsequently to the arrangement, Rauperaha was
 
 84 DETAILS, AND SUSPENSION 
 
 liberated, and consigned to the care of two powerful 
 Chiefs of the tribes near Auckland, who professed to 
 answer for his good behaviour. Rangihaeata was still 
 at large; and on two occasions made descents upon 
 out-settlers, plundering them of arms and ammunition, 
 but doing them no further injury. 
 
 The enforcing of British law against some native 
 murderers at Wanganui had provoked an extensive 
 revolt in that district, in attempting to repress which 
 Colonel McCleverty and the troops displayed lament- 
 able inefficiency, while some sailors in a gun-boat and 
 a few volunteers from the settlers behaved so as to 
 obtain great credit. The small settlement, however, 
 was destroyed; and became a mere military cantonment. 
 
 The Constitution which it was proposed to confer on 
 New Zealand by the Orders in Council, in pursuance 
 of the Act 9 & 10 Yict. cap. 103, was not altogether 
 in accordance with the desires of the Colonists, or of 
 the Company. 
 
 Municipal Councils were to be elected by almost 
 universal suffrage, the qualification for a voter being 
 six months' occupation of any tenement, and the ability 
 to read and write English. 
 
 Each Municipal Council was to elect members to the 
 Representative Chamber of a Provincial Assembly in 
 one of two Provinces, into which the islands were to 
 be divided. 
 
 The Assembly of each Province was to consist, be- 
 sides the Representative Chamber, of a Legislative 
 Council, whose members should be appointed and re- 
 moved at Her Majesty's pleasure, and of a Lieutenant- 
 Grovernor. 
 
 The Provincial Representative Chambers were again 
 to elect members to the Representative Chamber of a 
 General Assembly, formed in a similar way, for the 
 whole Colony. 
 
 Very extended discretion was left to the Governor 
 in carrying this Constitution into effect: and it was 
 even left to him to decide at what period its operation
 
 OF THE CONSTITUTION. 85 
 
 should commence. Mr. E. J. Eyre was appointed 
 Lieutenant-Governor, and arrived at Wellington in 
 August, 1847. 
 
 Governor Grey at first declined to proclaim the New 
 Constitution, at least in the Northern Province, where 
 the land-sharking interest would have obtained a great 
 voice in the Representative Chambers: and though he 
 appeared to be of opinion that the Cook's Strait Set- 
 tlements were fit for such a form of government, he 
 abstained from instituting it there also. In conse- 
 quence of the large Government expenditure on mili- 
 tary defence, and on roads and other public works, the 
 inhabitants of Wellington and its neighbourhood had 
 become greatly interested in Government contracts; 
 and it seems probable that Governor Grey feared lest, 
 with so low a qualification for voters, these interests 
 should obtain unbounded influence in the proposed 
 Assemblies, and that they would legislate with a view 
 to the maintenance of Government expenditure rather 
 than to the true benefit of the Colony. 
 
 He wrote to Earl Grey, representing that the pro- 
 posed qualification of reading and writing the English 
 language would exclude the natives from the exercise 
 of the franchise, and would give the power of legis- 
 lating for them to the white settlers, who form but a 
 small minority of the whole population in the northern 
 part of the islands. But he strongly expressed his 
 belief, at the same time, that the Company's Settle- 
 ments were perfectly prepared to enjoy these institu- 
 tions; and he recommended the suspension of the 
 Constitution for at least two years in the northern 
 part of the islands. 
 
 On the receipt of this intelligence, the Government 
 introduced a Bill for suspending the proposed Consti- 
 tution for five years in tJte whole Colony, arguing its 
 necessity from the representations of Governor Grey. 
 Although no pretext had been assigned by him for 
 depriving the Cook's Strait Colonists of the expected 
 i
 
 86 1848. CONSTITUTION PROCLAIMED. 
 
 boon, and although earnest remonstrances against so 
 arbitrary a course were urged in the House of Com- 
 mons upon the Ministers by the Earl of Lincoln and 
 Sir Robert Peel, the Bill became an Act, and thus 
 legislation for the whole of New Zealand was confirmed 
 in the hands of the smallest possible minority 
 namely, a Governor and a Council of seven men, 
 removable at the Governor's pleasure. Discretion was 
 left to the Governor to grant the original Constitution 
 to either Province at any time within five years. 
 
 In the meanwhile, on the 1st of January, 1848, 
 Governor Grey proclaimed the Constitution which the 
 Act has suspended, and it is possible that it may be 
 actually in operation. No very full details, however, 
 of the manner in which the Governor has exercised 
 the powers vested in him, have yet been received. 
 On the 28th January, 1848, he appointed and swore in 
 some of the officers of the Southern Province, which is 
 called "New Munster;" and on the 10th of March 
 proclaimed, as the boundary between that and " New 
 Ulster," or the Northern Province, the parallel of 
 latitude running through the mouth of the Patea river, 
 or about 39 46' S. 
 
 In April, 1848, the Canterbury Association, whose 
 proceedings are treated of in the first and second 
 Chapters, was formed. In July, their Chief Surveyor 
 was despatched to select a site for their Settlement. 
 
 It is proposed to describe separately, with the dis- 
 trict of country naturally dependent on each, the dif- 
 ferent Settlements whose formation has been above 
 related. We may first dwell on the present condition 
 of those which have grown into importance, from their 
 systematic foundation by the New Zealand Company; 
 then pass to a survey of that which, created and fos- 
 tered by the Government with the greatest want of 
 system, has acquired the name of "the capital;" and 
 conclude by a glance at those which have arisen from 
 the casual gregariousness of straggling adventurers.
 
 DISTRICT OF WELLINGTON. 87 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 District of WtllinatoH Port Nichols** 8*Ui*g Directions 
 Town of Wellington Karori Wade's Tom Pitomc Rood 
 Pitc-ne; tke Chief, EpvniLoicer Halt r alley Aalivmby 
 Gorge of the Hut! Upper Hull ralieyWairarapa Road 
 Waffs Peninsula Happy J~alley OArt Portni Road 
 JohHSonviHe Porina Harbour Parramatta />rry Wai- 
 kaxae Otakiy'atire Cirili:atioH Oka* .\fanatratn Hirer 
 and District Steant Satc-miil JTairarapa Plains Progress 
 of Sheep-farming Entry and Table Islands Climate 
 Gardening Calendar Meteorological Tables rarietitsofSoil 
 ~t*r*l Production* 1. 1'eg'etaMe : Indigenous; Intra- 
 <i*ced-2. Animal: Indigenous ; Whale Fishe ry ; Whale- 
 Hmnt ; Introduced 3. 'Mineral Land Original Distribu- 
 tion Price Rent Cost of Clearing amd Average Produce 
 Latest Prices Current Exports General Statistics Di- 
 
 WELLIN\;TOX was the first Settlement founded by the 
 New Zealand Company, in the year 1840, and is the 
 residence of their Principal Agent, Colonel William 
 Wakefield. Considering the great natural advantages 
 of the districts in its immediate neighbourhood, the 
 excellence of the harbour of Port Nicholson on which 
 they depend, the advantageous position of that harbour 
 for communication with all parts of the coasts of New 
 Zealand as well as with New South Wales and our 
 other Australian Colonies, the amount, and still more 
 the select quality of its population, this is undoubtedly 
 the most important Settlement yet existing in N.-\v 
 Zealand. 
 
 The district of Wellington may be shortly described 
 as that part of the north island which lies to the south 
 of the fortieth parallel of south latitude. This is a 
 tongue of land averaging about ninety miles in length 
 from north to south, by sixty miles in breadth from 
 east to west; and which thus contains about 5400 
 square miles, or 3,456,000 acres of land, of which 
 fully 2,000,000 acres are either susceptible of beneficial
 
 88 DISTRICT OF 
 
 cultivation or adapted for natural pasturage. The dis- 
 trict is divided into two nearly equal portions by a 
 high range of mountains, called the Ruahine in their 
 northern part, and the Tararua and Rirnutaka in that 
 part of their line which stretches from the Gorge of 
 the Manawatu river southwards to the coast on either 
 side of Port Nicholson. 
 
 The Western portion extends between this dividing 
 range and Cook's Strait, and is well watered by 
 the rivers Turakina, Rangitikei, Manawatu, Ohau, 
 Waikawa, Otaki, Waimea, Waikanae, and several 
 smaller streams. At the northern extremity of this 
 portion of country, the foot of the Ruahine range is 
 between twenty and thirty miles from the sandy beach 
 on the sea-coast. This distance remains nearly the 
 same so far south as the " Gorge," where the Manawatu 
 river bursts its way through the range; but from 
 thence southwards the dividing range, changing its 
 name to Tararua, bends more to the west, and its 
 western spurs abut on Cook's Strait in bold bluffs at 
 Pari-pari, about half way between the islands of 
 Kapiti and Mana. From the uniform sandy beach 
 which stretches along the coast between these bluffs 
 and the northern extremity of the district, the country 
 rises but slightly for the first four or five miles inland, 
 and with but few exceptions consists of open grass or 
 fern country, interspersed with swamps and marshes 
 easy of drainage. Further inland, the country becomes 
 generally covered with wood, and more or less undu- 
 lating. The forest extends almost invariably to the 
 summit of the range, which is only covered with snow 
 during the least genial part of the winter. This 
 portion of country is well sheltered by the Tararua 
 range from the cold south-east winds. The warm 
 north wind and the moist sea-breeze from the west 
 are alike fertilizing and agreeable. 
 
 East of the dividing range lies an extensive plain, 
 or series of plains: the southern part of which is called 
 the plain or valley of the Wairarapa, from the lake of
 
 WELLINGTON. 89 
 
 that name, by whose tributary rivers, of which the 
 principal is called the Ruamahanga, it is amply 
 watered; and the northern part of which, possessing as 
 yet BO distinctive name, is traversed in all directions 
 by the head waters of the Manawatu, which flows 
 through the " Gorge " in the dividing range, and by 
 those of several other rivers, which flow into the sea 
 on the east coast between Castle Point and Hauriri 
 harbour in Hawke's Bay. This plain, or series of 
 plains, is separated from the east coast in its whole 
 length by the Haurangi, Maungaraki, and Puketoi 
 ranges, which extend from Cape Palliser to Kidnapper 
 Point at the distance of eight or ten miles from the 
 coast, and nearly in a parallel line with it. Several 
 valleys formed by the rivers above mentioned offer 
 practicable means of communication between the large 
 plains and the east coast; and the plains expand to a 
 considerable breadth in their northern part, stretching 
 with but little interruption down to the shores of 
 Hauriri harbour and the adjoining coast of Hawke's 
 Bay. Between the line of mountains and the clifis on 
 the sea-shore the country forms a table-land, covered 
 principally with open pasture, and watered by several 
 streams. The great plains rise gradually from the sea- 
 beach in Palliser Bay and Hawke's Bay, to a consider- 
 able elevation at about forty miles inland from either 
 spot, near the sources of the rivers mentioned; and the 
 intervening space is filled up by lesser spurs of the 
 Tararua and Puketoi ranges, between which wind the 
 various confluents of the three rivers, and especially 
 those of the Tirumea, a main branch of the Manawatu; 
 affording, by means of their valleys, an easy communi- 
 cation between the "NVairarapa and Hauriri plains. 
 
 These plains are covered in nearly equal proportion 
 with forest or with a mixed growth of fern, shrubs, 
 and grass. These two classes of vegetation constantly 
 alternate throughout the entire extent of the country, 
 and each class is most luxuriant of its kind. Some 
 i2
 
 90 PORT NICHOLSON. 
 
 portion of the plains, near the sea, is swampy, but 
 mostly drainable. Although the mouth of the Waira- 
 rapa valley is open to the S.W., all but the lower 
 portion, well sheltered by the ranges east and west of 
 it, enjoys a climate as mild as that already described to 
 prevail in the "Western portion of the Wellington district. 
 
 The dividing range itself, in all that part of its line 
 which lies south of the island of Kapiti, is subdivided 
 into numerous diverging spurs of much lower elevation, 
 which strike the sea at various points between Pari- 
 pari and Cape Turakirai, the western head of Palliser 
 Bay. Between these spurs there lie hollows of greater 
 or less extent; and the principal one of these hollows 
 contains the valley of the river Hutt, and the noble 
 harbour of Port Nicholson into which it flows. 
 
 The entrance of Port Nicholson may be approached 
 by sea from the East, or from the West by Cook's 
 Strait. The latter is the course almost invariably taken 
 by vessels from Great Britain or from the Australian 
 Colonies. The Cook's Strait Almanack,* which is pub- 
 lished annually at Wellington, contains, in the number 
 for 1846, the following description of the appearance of 
 the neighbouring land from a vessel at sea, and sailing 
 directions for making the harbour from either east or 
 west. 
 
 " PORT NICHOLSON, Wellington, Government bouse; S. lat. 41 
 deg. 16 min. 46 sec. ; E. long. 174 deg. 47min. 29 sec.; T.of 
 H. W. F. & C. 6hr. Sp. rise Oft. 
 
 " The time of high water and its rise in Port Nicholson harbour 
 are only known approximately ; flood commences at the heads about 
 two hours earlier than in the harbour. The tide rises about three 
 and a half feet; highest tide takes place from three to five days after 
 Full and Change. 
 
 " In the spring and winter mouths, a south east wind may be 
 calculated upon about Full and Change. 
 
 " BEMAKKS ON THE APPEARANCE OF THE LAND. 
 
 " Cape Palliser is a high and bold promontory, and may be ap- 
 proached with a considerable degree of safety. As seen from the 
 
 * This publication is to be procured at Messrs. Longman & Co.'s 
 Paternoster-row.
 
 SAILING DIRECTIONS. 91 
 
 eastward or westward, at a distance of fifteen miles, it rises from die 
 sea in a gradual and regular ascent to the high mountains at the 
 back, which are of irregular outline, and peaked. From this pro- 
 montory to Cape Turakirai the course is W.N.W. twenty miles. The 
 outline of the land at the back of Turakirai is more regular than 
 that of Cape Palliser, and appears to end in a bold and abrupt con- 
 vexity. On a nearer view, however, a low point will be observed, 
 extending from the base into the sea, giving it much the appearance 
 of the snout of a porpoise. As seen more from the southward, the 
 hills at the back are gradually lower into the flat land of Palliser 
 Bay. 
 
 " The course from Turakirai to Baring Head is N.W. by W. 
 three miles. Baring Head is the extremity of a table flat, extending in 
 a north-westerly direction, to within a mile of Pencarrow Head; the 
 indentation of the coast between Baring Head and Pencarrow Head 
 forms Fitzroy Bay, where small vessels sometimes ride out north- 
 westerly gales, bringing the high rocks off Pencarrow Head, and 
 those a quarter of a mile to the southward of them, to cover the 
 entrance of th.e harbour. 
 
 " Pencarrow Head is a bold cliff, on the summit of which is a 
 white beacon, about thirty feet in height ; a good mark for the en- 
 trance of the harbour.* 
 
 " The land on the western side of the entrance is moderately 
 high to seaward, but ascends considerably towards the harbour. At 
 a distance of ten miles, it appears to be separated from the land fur- 
 ther to the westward, but is in reality connected with it by a low, 
 narrow isthmus, which divides Evans Bay on the harbour side from 
 Lyall Bay. TLU has often been mistaken by strangers for the en- 
 trance into the harbour. 
 
 " On the western side of the entrance, bearing E. by N. ^ N. from 
 Pencarrow Head, is Palmer Head, from which a rocky reef projects 
 ' to the distance of half a mile. The rocks are all visible, and may 
 safely approached within a quarter of a mile : on the hills between 
 ' Palmer Head and Point Dorset a beacon is erected. About a mile 
 west of Palmer Head is Lyall Bay : on the fern hills west of this 
 Bay, on the summit of Mount Albert, is the Signal Station. 
 
 " From the low neck between Evans and Lyall Bays, to the dis- 
 tance of two miles along the coast, the ascent is gradually hilly ; 
 the land then rises considerably for two miles further to Sinclair 
 Head, where it is a bold cliff. Four miles to the north westward, 
 the land continues high till it descends into the Oteraugo valley, 
 after which it rises in an almost semicircular hill, called by the na- 
 tives Omere, (on the chart, Terawiti.) The remarkable convex 
 appearance of this hill renders it easily distinguished from Turakirai, 
 or Cape Palliser, when seen from a northerly or southerly direction. 
 
 * " The beacon is not distinguishable at ;he distance of five miles, 
 except in very clear weather.''
 
 92 PORT NICHOLSON. 
 
 " Between this Cape and Sinclair Head, a reef extends about the 
 distance of a mile and a half from the shore, terminating in a high 
 rock, called the Seal Rock. 
 
 " There is a dangerous sunken rock, the bearings of which are as 
 follow : 
 
 " Sunken rock bears S.E. by S. by compass from the Seal Rock, 
 about three quarters of a mile, and taking the Seal Rock and the Reef 
 off Sinclair Head upon a parallel, it will be found about half a mile 
 south of that line, and from two to two miles and a half from the 
 main land. The rock is visible about three inches below water at 
 neap tide only, and is apparently a perfect steeple. The rock called 
 here the Seal Rock, is described in the Chart of Cook's Strait, pub- 
 lished by Smith, Elder, & Co., London, as the ' Karori Rock.' 
 
 "N.B. On rounding Cape Palliser from the eastward, the land 
 will be seen to terminate in a long table flat, similar to that before 
 mentioned as forming Baring Head. 
 
 " SAILING DIRECTIONS. 
 
 " Running for Port Nicholson, with a north-westerly wind, from 
 the northward, Cape Terawiti should be rounded close, say within 
 three miles, as the only dangers are the Seal Hock, which, ao before 
 stated, lies about a mile and a half from the shore between Sinclair 
 Head and Cape Terawiti, high out of the water, and safe to approach 
 within half a mile ; and the Sunken Sock, off the Karori Stream 
 (near Terawiti), before described. The course from Terawiti to 
 Sinclair Head is E.S.E. six miles, then the course is E.N.E. six miles 
 to the outer rock of Barrett's Reef. If the wind is moderate, and the 
 weather clear, a vessel that is easily managed may work in night 
 or day, all the rocks being uncovered except a few in a line with the 
 reef. She may, if necessary t lie iuside the rock till daylight, being 
 ready to weigh anchor immediately on a shift from the southward. 
 Should the north-west wind be too strong to work into the harbour, 
 the entrance should be kept open ; and in thick weather, a sufficient 
 offing preserved, in case of a southerly shift of wind : this, of course, 
 will depend on circumstances, for, with a moderate north-wester, if 
 it is not deemed advisable to enter at night, should the wind be 
 steady, and the weather clear, a sudden shift seldom occurs ; and as 
 there is no hidden danger, a vessel may be kept under sail with the 
 entrance open till daylight, or in case of a shift, she may run in with 
 all safety. 
 
 " It is hardly necessary to give any directions for approach from 
 the eastward. Care should be taken to avoid being embayed be- 
 tween Capes Palliser and Turakirai ; and if the land is not distinctly 
 visible, the harbour should not be attempted at night. As a mutter 
 of precaution against danger, the vessel should be kept under snug 
 sail, if the weather is at all unsettled. 
 
 " The outer rock of Barrett Reef may be rounded at the distance 
 of 200 yards, with Waddell Point bearing N. by W.
 
 SAILING DIRECTIONS. 93 
 
 " The stream of flood runs to the northward until eight o'clock, or 
 four hours later. The ehb sets to the southward. Between Sinclair 
 Head and the entrance to the harbour, there is little or no tide felt ; 
 and generally with the flood tide there is an eddy found setting to 
 the eastward towards the entrance. 
 
 " The Bully Rock is said to lie oft' Point Jerniugham about 100 
 yards, with six feet on it at high water, 
 
 " COOK'S STRAIT. 
 
 " The Rock off the Brothers lies four miles from the land, with the 
 outer Brother S.E. by S. J S; Long Island in one with the white 
 rocks in Queen Charlotte's Sound, S. W. S. The rock is just a- 
 wash at low water. 
 
 " The barometer is not always an indication of a change in the 
 weather in Cook's Stniit. 
 
 " During a north-westerly wind and thick weather, on a rise of the 
 barometer, a southerly wind may be expected; but a change often 
 occurs from N.W. to S.E., and the contrary, without any alteration 
 of height in the mercury. 
 
 " The mercury is sometimes unusually low even in moderate 
 weather, and high when blowing a gale." 
 
 The breadth of the entrance, between Barrett Reef 
 and Pencarrow Head, is about three-quarters of a mile. 
 For about three miles to the north, you continue to sail 
 between steep shores of moderate height; the width of 
 the passage varying from a mile to a mile and a half; 
 and the depth of water ranging from fourteen to six 
 fathoms at low water of spring tides. The harbour now 
 expands to the westward; you should give Ward Island 
 a wide berth; and, as you pass close to Points Gordon 
 and Halswell, leaving Ward and Somes Islands to the 
 north, you discover Evans Bay stretching to the south, 
 and Lambtou Harbour with the Town of Wellington 
 in the south-west corner of the port. Independently 
 of these bays and of the long, narrow entrance, Port 
 Nicholson forms a basin, land-locked in nearly every 
 part, about five miles in diameter, with soundings 
 varying from fourteen to three fathoms. 
 
 The pilots generally board vessels outside Barrett 
 Reef; as notice is given to them, by the signal station 
 on Mount Albert, of the appearance of a vessel outside 
 the harbour.
 
 94 TOWN OF 
 
 The following are the signals used at the flagstaff at 
 Mount Albert: 
 
 A Square denotes a Ship 
 A Cross Barque 
 
 A Circle 
 A Triangle 
 A Diamond 
 A Parallelogram 
 
 Brig 
 Schooner 
 Cutter 
 Steamer 
 
 A white flag at mast-head denotes a sail in sight ; when the 
 class is ascertained, the descriptive signal will be hoisted at the 
 yard-arm. 
 
 English vessel of war, Union-jack at mast-head. 
 
 Foreign vessel of war, Union-jack at mast-head, with white 
 pendant. 
 
 Government brig, white pendant under descriptive signal. 
 
 Wlien the vessel is inside the Heads, the flag will be lowered. 
 
 When a vessel is at anchor, either inside or outside the Heads, 
 the flag is lowered to half-mast. 
 
 A vessel in distress, or on shore, descriptive signal, half-mast. 
 
 Fore-and-aft schooner, a triangle, hollow in the centre. 
 
 According to the plan on which the Settlement of 
 "Wellington was founded, a town-site was laid out, con- 
 sisting of 1100 sections of one acre each, besides re- 
 serves for public purposes, and there were also laid out 
 1100 rural sections of one hundred acres each, in 
 various parts of the neighbouring country. Each pur- 
 chaser in London of one right of selection became en- 
 titled, in an order of choice determined by lot as soon 
 as all had been purchased, to select one town and one 
 country section. One hundred sections were reserved 
 for the natives, and treated precisely in the same way, 
 as to order of choice, as though each of the hundred 
 had been purchased by a private individual. 
 
 The site chosen by Colonel Wakefield for the Town 
 of Wellington is immediately contiguous to Lambton 
 Harbour. The water-frontage of the Town extends for 
 about three miles round its beach. The site comprises 
 the whole of the level spaces commonly called Thorndon 
 Flat and Te Aro Flat, on the western and southern 
 sides of the harbour, and some of the more practicable
 
 WELLINGTON. 95 
 
 slopes of the hills. In order to include the whole 
 amount of 1 100 acres required, it was found necessary 
 to extend the boundaries as far in one direction (south 
 of the harbour) as two miles from the beach. 
 
 Twenty-one sections, at the southern extremity of 
 the harbour, comprise a private property in the land 
 down to high-water mark. In all other parts of the 
 shore, the public road is laid down between high-water 
 mark and the boundary of private property. These 
 twenty-one acres extend along about half a mile of the 
 beach, in the middle of which space a frontage of about 
 1 40 feet is allotted to a Public Wharf, but is at present 
 occupied by the native pa or village, called Te Arc. 
 Owing to the valuable privilege mentioned, many of 
 these sections have been eagerly sought after and occu- 
 pied by the commercial part of the community. Here 
 three substantial jetties have been built out by the pro- 
 prietors or tenants, and a vessel of seventy tons burthen 
 may load or unload her cargo alongside one of them. 
 Several strongly built houses and warehouses, some of 
 them constructed of bricks made on the spot, are situ- 
 ated near the jetties. In this part of the town, too, are 
 situated the Office of the Union Bank of Australia, the 
 Wesleyan Chapel and Mission-house, the Custom-house, 
 and the Exchange. 
 
 Further back from the beach, numerous houses, of 
 various size and construction, including a Windmill for 
 grinding flour, a Steam flour and sawing mill, a Brewery, 
 and two or three Hotels and Taverns, are dotted over 
 Te Aro Flat, the hollow between the bare eastern ridge, 
 of which Mounts Victoria and Albert are peaks, and 
 the wooded spurs of the hills which close the view to 
 the south-Avest. 
 
 On a slight eminence in the centre of this hollow, 
 named Mount Cook, the Jail and Barracks are conspi- 
 cuous objects. Following round the beach to the west- 
 ward, a continuous line of taverns, shops, and stores, 
 among which a principal object is the Scotch Presby- 
 terian Church, leads the eye to Thorndon Flat, on or
 
 96 TOWN OF WELLINGTON. 
 
 near which stand the neat English Church and Parson- 
 age, the residences of many of the principal inhabitants, 
 of the Company's Principal Agent, and of the Lieu- 
 tenant-Governor, Mr. Eyre, a second set of Barracks, 
 the Company's Offices and Buildings for the reception 
 of Immigrants, the principal (Barrett's), and other 
 Hotels, &c. At this part of the harbour an excellent 
 jetty has been built at the expense of the proprietors of 
 the neighbouring shops and houses, who have gener- 
 ously, and at the same time wisely, thrown it open for 
 the gratuitous use of the public. 
 
 The situation of Wellington is highly picturesque. 
 The steep wooded heights of Tinakore form a pleasing 
 background to the view. It is to be hoped, that as 
 they are included in the Belt of land reserved all round 
 the Town for Public purposes, strict precautions may 
 be taken to preserve the timber from depredation. 
 
 Several streams from the western range afford a 
 constant supply of the purest water; of which vessels 
 take in a stock with great ease, as they may lie at 
 anchor in three fathoms' water so near the beach as to 
 haul their long-boats backwards and forwards along a 
 line stretched from the ship to the shore. The same 
 means is also frequently adopted for discharging cargo. 
 
 The Te Aro Flat, or southern part of the town, near 
 the beach, consists partly of undrained marsh, and 
 partly of a poor gravelly soil. Near the foot of the 
 western hills, however, there is a great improvement 
 in its quality, and several well cultivated gardens may 
 be seen. The more distant town-sections to the south 
 are covered with natural pasture, varying in quality 
 and quantity; but they seem fitted for little else. 
 
 Thorndon Flat, on which is the north-western portion 
 of the Town, was once covered with the potato cultiva- 
 tions of the natives, which have exhausted the fertility 
 of the soil ; but the careful cultivation, by many of the 
 present inhabitants, of numerous spots, has already 
 brought their gardens to produce very satisfactory 
 crops, and to wear an extremely cheerful appearance.
 
 KARORI DISTRICT. 97 
 
 As yet, only the main streets, in which sections are 
 built upon or otherwise occupied, are even marked out; 
 and only one or two of the principal ones are made 
 passable for wheeled vehicles. There are, however, 
 but few of these in the Settlement; and, except for the 
 conveyance of heavy goods, for which dray-carts drawn 
 by bullocks are chiefly used, locomotion is much easier 
 on foot or on horseback. No paving has as yet been 
 attempted; and the only lights, besides those of the 
 shops till they close, are the oil-lamps which the 
 licensed publicans are required to maintain over their 
 doors all night. 
 
 Near the western extremity of the town, a very good 
 road leads over a low part of the Tinakore range, and 
 across the picturesque gully and stream of the Kaiwa- 
 rawara,* to the Karori district. This district begins 
 immediately outside the boundary of the Town-belt, 
 and the road is already passable for a distance of four 
 or five miles from the part of the Town where it begins. 
 The New Zealand Company first expended 1557/. 8*. 
 4d. on the rough construction of 4 miles, 7 furlongs, 
 and 20 poles, or at the rate of 315/. 8*. 9d. per mile; 
 and the settlers in the district afterwards contributed 
 labour and materials to improve the effect of this first 
 expenditure. The greater portion of the district forms 
 an undulating table-land, surrounded by higher hills. 
 The table-land lies 59 1 feet above the level of the sea, 
 and contains about ]200 or 1500 acres of land, ori- 
 ginally covered with forest-trees of the loftiest growth, 
 which have now disappeared in many places before the 
 axe of the settler. Karori district on the map com- 
 prises twenty-four sections of 100 acres each; but 
 about one-half of this amount of land is situated on 
 more or less steep acclivities either above or below the 
 level of the table-land described. A great many la- 
 bouring families own or hire small patches of land here, 
 keep forty or fifty cows among them, and saw up the 
 * See p. 09. 
 K
 
 98 WADE'S TOWN. 
 
 timber, which is of excellent quality. Even the smaller 
 timber is of value, as firewood is easily conveyed into 
 the town. Thus the early operation of clearing has in 
 a great measure paid its own expenses in this upland 
 valley. 
 
 The present Chief Justice of the Southern Province, 
 Mr. H. S. Chapman, resides here; and has done much 
 by his good example to encourage the activity and 
 industry of his neighbours. In December, 1846, the 
 dwellings of some of the labouring settlers were clus- 
 tered so as to have the appearance of a village near 
 Mr. Chapman's house: a building had been erected, to 
 serve the united purposes of Chapel and school; and a 
 shop had been opened. At a fete held in 1847, on the 
 opening of the Chapel, it was remarked that out of the 
 whole population of 200 souls, no death had occurred 
 within a twelvemonth. 
 
 Immediately adjoining on the northern extremity of 
 Wellington, another road leads up the side of a rugged 
 hill. This was a rural section of one hundred acres; 
 and two speculators joined together to purchase it from 
 the original owner, to construct the road as a means of 
 access to its upper portion, and to resell the land in 
 small allotments. As this was done during the first 
 foundation of the settlement, when no circumstances 
 had occurred to check the most sanguine hopes of 
 rapid prosperity, these allotments were sold for very 
 high prices, some even at the rate of 40/. per acre. 
 They were chiefly bought by labouring men who had 
 saved enough money to pay a deposit on the purchase- 
 money, and who were allowed time to pay the remainder. 
 The contented appearance of these industrious cottagers, 
 and the cheerful aspect of their gardens, well repay 
 the effort of climbing over the hill, from which, 
 moreover, there is a comprehensive view of the Town 
 and harbour and of the neighbouring country. This 
 village is called Wade's Town. 
 
 A good road, called the Pitone road, leads from the 
 same point of Wellington, along the western shore of
 
 PITONE ROAD. 99 
 
 Port Nicholson, close under the hills, which are covered 
 with hanging woods. 
 
 About half a mile along this road, the gully of the 
 Kaiwarawara stream makes a gap in the wall of foliage; 
 and a small English village, as well as a native pa, or 
 collection of huts, stands on one part of the alluvial 
 level which projects into the harbour. Here Mr. 
 Kenneth Mathieson, a Colonist from Greenock, in 1841 
 built a slip, on which the " Indemnity " of 400 tons 
 burthen and several other vessels were hauled up and 
 repaired. A very few acres of level land are contained 
 in this picturesque gully, on which the steep hills soon 
 close in from either side. Owing to this circumstance, 
 the stream affords considerable water-power; and a 
 flour-mill, with two pair of stones, has accordingly been 
 erected not far from its mouth. The rural section 
 which includes this spot was selected by the holder of 
 the first right of choice. 
 
 For about three miles the Pitone road proceeds be- 
 tween the western shore of the harbour, here very rocky, 
 and steep, wooded hill-sides. In several places, the 
 jutting buttresses of rock have been blasted and cut 
 away, in order to make room for the road. There is then 
 another break, similar to that of Kaiwarawara, but 
 smaller in extent of level land, where the Nga 
 Hauranga stream flows into the harbour. Here there 
 are a few houses and huts inhabited by natives, and 
 one of the quaint monuments which are erected by 
 these people in memory of their dead. This one is to 
 commemorate "Warepori, the Chief who, together with 
 another named Epuni, took the lead in conducting the 
 sale of this district in September, 1839, to Colonel 
 Wakefield. Warepori died here in 1842. The Nea 
 Hauranga stream is capable of affording power for a 
 small mill. 
 
 Steep wooded hills again bound the road to thv 
 for two or three miles. In the latter part of this space 
 a nameless stream has a considerable fall, close to the
 
 100 PITONE THE CHIEF, EPUNI. 
 
 beach of the harbour, and here would be another 
 excellent site for a water-mill. 
 
 Less than a mile from this stream is the north-west 
 corner of the harbour, and from this point a sandy 
 beach extends for about two miles east and west across 
 its northern end. 
 
 At this point a native foot-path winds up the 
 western hills towards Porirua, a neighbouring harbour, 
 which will shortly be described. From a deep dell 
 between two ridges of these hills, a brawling stream 
 called the Korokoro, or " Throat," rushes into the sea. 
 This water-course is well adapted for turning a mill- 
 wheel. On the making of the road to this point, the 
 Company expended, at various times, 25751. 19s. 4d. 
 The total length of this road is five miles and six 
 furlongs ; so that the original cost per mile was 
 4471. 19s. lOd. It is now kept under repair partly 
 by the Government and partly by the settlers in the 
 valley of the Hutt. 
 
 We have now reached the mouth of this valley, which 
 is as broad as the sandy beach above mentioned. Here 
 is the native village called Pitone, or " End of the 
 Sand," from its position. This is remarkable as the 
 spot where the original purchase of the district, by 
 Colonel Wakefield, was concluded with the natives, in 
 September, 1839, and as the spot on which the first 
 four or five ship-loads of Colonists disembarked and 
 pitched their tents. The native village is still the 
 residence of Epuui, the Chief who joined with the 
 deceased "Warepori in selling the land. Epuni is cele- 
 brated among the Colonists as having been a very rare 
 instance of a native steadfastly adhering to a bargain 
 respecting land. Throughout numerous disagreements 
 between the Company's Agents and settlers and the 
 Government Officials, he has, for upwards of eight 
 years, resolutely maintained the integrity of the con- 
 tract into which he had entered, and the friendship of 
 the first party of white men to whom he had promised 
 his assistance in colonizing the country.
 
 LOWER HUTT VALLEY. 101 
 
 During the skirmishes of 1846 with the rebel natives, 
 in the valley of the Hutt and the neighbouring country, 
 Epuni and his followers rendered most valuable assist- 
 ance to our forces, as well by honest and judicious advice 
 as by active and courageous co-operation. Mr. Alex- 
 ander Currie, one of the Directors of the New Zealand 
 Company, sent the Chief Epuni, as the present of a pri- 
 vate individual, a handsome silver vase, bearing an appro- 
 priate inscription in the native language, accompanied 
 by a letter, begging him to hand it down as an heir-loom 
 to his posterity, in order to encourage them to follow 
 his example. A festival was held in June, 1847, on the 
 occasion of the presentation of the vase to Epuni by 
 Mrs. Petre ; and the Chief has since acknowledged the 
 well-timed testimonial, in a letter which does equal 
 credit to himself and to the donor.* 
 
 The principal road now turns to the north, along the 
 western side of the valley; though there is a track along 
 the sandy plain immediately at the back of the beach, 
 towards the mouth of the Hutt, at the eastern side of 
 the valley, and towards several houses which have been 
 built in that direction. 
 
 The valley of the Hutt consists of two portions, 
 called the Lower Hutt and Upper Hutt districts. 
 
 The Lower Hutt extends in the form of a triangle, 
 having its base on the shores of the harbour, and its 
 apex at a gorge in a northerly direction, about six miles 
 and a half from the sea, where the eastern and western 
 hills bounding the valley approach so close to each 
 other as only to leave room for the passage of the river. 
 Not far below this gorge, a portion of the waters of the 
 river overflow or ooze through the eastern bank at 
 various points, in such a way as to give rise to three 
 separate water-courses, all of which at length re-unite 
 with the parent stream in a common embouchure at 
 the eastern extremity of the beach before mentioned. 
 The easternmost of these water-courses is called the 
 * New Zealand Journal, vol. ix., No. 212, p. 4. 
 K2
 
 102 LOWER HUTT VALLEY. 
 
 Waiwetu, or " Star River," and flows for about four 
 miles close under the eastern hills, gathering their 
 tributary waters. The main stream, or Hutt, flows in 
 a similar way nearest to the western hills, until about 
 five miles below the gorge, whence it meanders across 
 the valley to the mouth. The two other water-courses 
 are less important, both in length and size: they in- 
 tersect the country between the Hutt and the Waiwetu, 
 and are called respectively, beginning from the west, 
 First and Second Rivers. 
 
 For about a quarter of a mile back from the beach, 
 the land of this valley is inferior in quality, consisting 
 alternately of sand, shingle, or gravel, and swamp lying 
 so low as to be difficult of drainage; but the whole of 
 the valley, between this belt on the sea-shore and the 
 gorge, possesses the very richest alluvial soil, enriched 
 by the decayed vegetable matter of forests which seem 
 to have grown undisturbed for at least two hundred 
 years previous to the arrival of the European Colonists. 
 A rich brown sandy loam exists, in many places to the 
 depth of eight or nine feet from the surface. The 
 fertility of this tract of land seems almost inexhaustible; 
 for the soil is renewed over the greater part of the 
 delta, annually, by freshets, which have never done any 
 mischief to the crops. At high water, these four 
 streams are navigable for large boats and barges as 
 far as three or four miles from the mouth; and the 
 navigation may be much improved, and extended fur- 
 ther up the country, by clearing away accumulations 
 of timber and shingle-banks which now obstruct the 
 clear course of both tide and current. 
 
 Soon after leaving the native village of Pitone, a 
 bi'anch to the right leads from the main road to Heron- 
 gate Farm, the residence of the Hon. Henry W. Petre, 
 which stands nearly in the centre of the valley, on a 
 ridge of the shingly or gravelly soil already men- 
 tioned; and thence to a small village, as yet nameles?, 
 situated on the west bank of the Hutt, about half a 
 mile above its mouth. Clover, grass, and barley are
 
 AGLIONBV. NEWKY FARM. 103 
 
 grown tolerably well on the comparatively unproductive 
 tract of land already alluded to, through which this 
 cross-road passes. 
 
 The main road proceeds through some land, at the 
 foot of the hill, which is nearly exhausted by the 
 repeated potato crops taken from it by the natives 
 without interval, and which lies too high to be reno- 
 vated by the floods; then, passing over a small space of 
 the richest possible alluvial soil, it reaches the west 
 bank of the Hutt at the spot whence, as above de- 
 scribed, the river bends gradually towards the eastern 
 side of the valley. 
 
 Just about this spot, the greatest progress has been 
 made towards European civilization. On the same 
 bank of the river, about half a mile lower down, is the 
 village of Aglionby, which contains an excellent Tavern, 
 with good stabling and other accommodation; a small 
 building used as a Church and school, a blacksmith's 
 forge, and several shops, one or two good farm-houses, 
 and numerous labourers' cottages. Close to the main 
 road stands Fort Richmond, a wooden stockade built 
 in 1845, and garrisoned by a small detachment of 
 troops. The fort commands a strong wooden Bridge, 
 built by the Company over the river, in the year 1844, 
 at a cost of 4 1 0/. 
 
 Immediately on the other side of the river stands a 
 Windmill, erected by the late Mr. Francis Molesworth, 
 on his estate called Newry Farm, which lies along the 
 left bank of the river for about half-a-mile below the 
 Bridge. Not far from the Mill there is a large barn 
 with a four-horse thrashing machine, and a cluster of 
 labourers' cottages. A belt of timber, spared by the 
 axe, hides the house from the view. This farm is now 
 let out to several different tenants. Mr. Petre rents 
 the house, and thirty or forty acres of the immediately 
 surrounding land, lie is said to have here the best 
 garden in the colony. For some of this land a yearly 
 rent of thirty shillings per acre is actually paid, on 
 short leases, and without purchasing clauses.
 
 104 GORGE OF THE HUTT. 
 
 Next below Newry, on the same side, lies a small 
 farm, with a pretty ^residence fronting towards the 
 river; and from that spot to the nameless village 
 already spoken of, numerous cottages surrounded by 
 their small plots of cultivation appear on either side. 
 
 Just above the Windmill stands another farm-house; 
 and all around are seen substantial fences, wide 
 clearings, and careful cultivation. 
 
 The road now proceeds for five miles nearly in a 
 straight line up to the gorge. About two miles above 
 the Bridge is another stockade, called "the Taita," 
 where a military party is posted so as to command a 
 native foot-path leading over the western hills towards 
 Porirua. On either side of the road, both above and 
 below this stockade, are clearings and cultivations of 
 greater or less extent, and a few residences of the rough 
 kind which the taste or means of the settler in each 
 case has dictated. 
 
 On the banks of the other three streams, and especi- 
 ally on those of the Waiwetu, or easternmost river, 
 there is a considerable number of houses belonging to 
 farmers or to labourers, and a large extent of cleared and 
 cultivated land. This part of the valley is at present 
 most accessible by water; but it is intended at an early 
 opportunity to complete a branch road, with bridges, 
 across the valley and the four streams, from west to east. 
 
 At the gorge of the Hutt, the old road winds up 
 the eastern hills, and from its highest level a beautiful 
 view of the Lower valley and of the harbour is obtained, 
 but a more level road has lately been cut by Govern- 
 ment through the lower part of the eastern bank. 
 
 Ninety sections have been laid out, and eighty- 
 eight selected in the Lower valley of the Hutt. Out of 
 these 8800 acres, about 1000 were cleared and cul- 
 tivated at the end of the year 1847. 
 
 North of the gorge, through which the river rushes 
 rapidly for about a mile and a half, the hills again 
 recede from each other, and the Upper Hutt valley 
 opens out. This district is a level piece of ground
 
 UPPER HUTT VALLEY. 105 
 
 about eight miles long by two broad, consisting of soil 
 generally somewhat inferior to that of the lower valley. 
 This is especially the case in most parts of the valley 
 close to the banks of the river, where the tree called 
 black birch (tawai of the natives*) is the principal 
 forest growth, and betokens a cold clayey, or poor 
 gravelly soil. Further back from the river, the soil 
 evidently improves, and would be considered of excel- 
 lent quality if not compared with that of the Lower 
 valley. Lying, however, at a higher level, it does 
 not receive so much alluvium from the floods. For 
 this inferiority of soil the resident here will be com- 
 pensated by the greater mildness of the weather, owing 
 to the complete shelter which is afforded to this valley 
 by the hills near the gorge from the cold south- 
 easterly winds. The river Hutt, for four or five miles 
 above the gorge, is broad, and deep enough to afford 
 an excellent means of internal communication. Indeed, 
 a canal from the sea, through the gorge, to the northern 
 end of the Upper valley, would seem to be a work of 
 no great difficulty, should there ever be traffic enough 
 to suggest the undertaking. 
 
 In the Upper valley of the Hutt, sixty-two sections 
 have been laid out, and forty-two chosen. 
 
 Two smaller valleys open into the valley of the Hutt 
 on the eastern side. They are formed by the Mun- 
 garoa and Pakiritahi streams, which flow from the 
 eastern hills in a north-western direction to join the 
 head waters of the Hutt. 
 
 The Mungaroa valley is at present almost entirely a 
 swamp, lying so high as to be easily drained. When 
 this is done, the land will no doubt be found to be of 
 excellent quality. Thirty-eight sections are laid out in 
 this valley, and twenty have been chosen. 
 
 In the Pakiritahi valley, fourteen sections have been 
 laid out and chosen. The Hutt road has been continued 
 up this valley by Government; and it is intended at an 
 
 * See page 142, No. 0.
 
 106 WAIRARAPA ROAD. 
 
 early period to cany it still further, across the most 
 practicable part of the Rimutaka, or eastern range of 
 hills, into the Wairarapa plains already mentioned at 
 page 88. The road was well-made up to the foot of 
 the range in the end of 1847; and had been roughly 
 laid down by the Government surveyor as far as 
 Pai-tu-mokai, in the plains on the eastern side of the 
 hills, in July of that year. The whole distance, by 
 this road, from "Wellington to Pai-tu-mokai is 39^ 
 miles. On the whole line there will be no gradient 
 with a greater average inclination than 1 in 40. The 
 rough construction of a road from Pitone to the junc- 
 tion of the Mungaroa with the Hutt, in length 18 miles, 
 4 furlongs, 3 poles, cost the Company 1652?. 5s. Qd., 
 or at the rate of 88/. 17s. 2d. per mile. The Go- 
 vernment have since expended about 42001. on its im- 
 provement and continuation, by means of the labour 
 of troops and natives. It is calculated that it will 
 cost about 10,0001. more to complete the thirty-nine 
 miles and a half, so that a dray may go from Wellington 
 into the plains, and that this will have been done by 
 May, 1848.* 
 
 With the exception of one or two patches of level land 
 close to the mouths of small streams, the whole eastern 
 shore of Port Nicholson is steep to the water's edge. 
 
 The first of these level patches is about a quarter of 
 a mile from the eastern extremity of the sandy beach 
 which forms the base of the Lower Hutt valley. 
 There is here a slight indentation in the shore, so as 
 to form a shelter for small vessels from the opening of 
 the harbour. It is called Lowry Bay. There are here 
 about forty or fifty acres of level land, the greater part 
 of which has been cleared and cultivated by Colonists 
 whose houses stand near the beach. 
 
 * See Papers on New Zealand, presented to both Houses, 3rd 
 February, 1848, in continuation of Papers presented in January 
 and June, 1847, page 4, for the Reports of the Government Sur- 
 veyor on the subject.
 
 WATT'S PENINSULA. 107 
 
 At Okiwi, or Hawtrey Bay, there is another patch 
 of level laud of about ten acres, which has also been 
 cleared and cultivated. 
 
 The steep hills along the remainder of this shore 
 afford very good pasturage. Forty-seven sections have 
 been laid out along this line, forming, together with 
 nineteen more sections along the Pitone road between 
 Wade's Town and the Korokoro stream, what is called 
 the Harbour District. 
 
 The peninsula which forms the western shore of the 
 entrance of Port Nicholson, called Watt's Peninsula, 
 contains about 1800 acres, chiefly steep hilly pasture- 
 land, and totally devoid of timber; and eighteen sections 
 have been laid out and chosen upon it. In its centre 
 was Burnham Water, a fresh-water lake, covering about 
 100 acres; and round the shores of this lake there were 
 about 200 acres of level land, lying in a swamp, but 
 available for cultivation after drainage. 
 
 There are two large cattle farming establishments on 
 this peninsula: Glendavar, at the north end of the lake, 
 established in 1840, by Mr. James Coutts Crawford; 
 and the other, called Tettcott Farm, among the hills at 
 the south end of the peninsula, which was first esta- 
 blished by the late Mr. Francis Molesworth. Both 
 now belong to Mr. Crawford, who, in the year 1847, 
 commenced draining Burnham Water, by means of a 
 tunnel through the nai'row ridge of hills which separates 
 it from Evans Bay. He has thus reclaimed a consider- 
 able tract of very fertile land, including the former site 
 of the Lake. On a hill near Tettcott Farm is the small 
 beacon already mentioned in the description of the 
 entrance to the harbour. The isthmus between Lyall 
 and Evans Bays is a sandy tract totally unfit for culti- 
 vation of any kind. The Race Course is on the Penin- 
 sula, closely adjoining this isthmus. 
 
 On the eastern side of the range of hills dividing 
 Kvans Bay from Lambton Harbour and the town of 
 Wellington, and of which Mounts Victoria and Albert 
 are the principal peaks, six sections have been laid
 
 HAPPY VALLEY. 
 
 out, forming what is called the Evans Bay district. 
 They are all employed for the purposes of depasturing 
 sheep, horses, or cattle; and on one of them, in the south- 
 western corner of Evans Bay, there is a considerable 
 dairy-farm. The road to Wellington passes through 
 this farm over the lowest part of the ridge, about half- 
 way between the two peaks. 
 
 Nine sections are laid out in a tract of country 
 called the Town District, consisting of undulating, 
 open pasture land, which lies on the western side of 
 the ridge, south of the boundary of the town of Wel- 
 lington. This tract is unfitted for arable purposes, 
 and is now entirely occupied by graziers. 
 
 Across the next ridge of hills, which forms the 
 western boundary of the Town of Wellington and Town 
 District, lies the Ohiro, or Happy Valley, in which 
 eighteen sections have been laid out and chosen. Those 
 near the mouth of the Ohiro stream are devoid of 
 timber, and only fitted for pasturage; but higher up 
 and nearer Wellington, where thick woods once stood, 
 there are now several farm-houses and extensive clear- 
 ings. This valley is narrow, and the slopes on either 
 side steep in many places. The residence of Mr. Ed- 
 mund Halswell, late Puisne Judge of the Southern 
 District and Protector of Aborigines, is in this valley; 
 and offers the aspect of an old English farm-house of 
 the better sort. 
 
 Between the Happy Valley and the S.E. boundary 
 of the Karori district, seven sections of roughish land 
 have been laid out and selected in the upper part of 
 the Kaiwarawara valley. 
 
 The next valley to the west is the Makara, through 
 which the Karori stream flows into Cook's Strait from 
 its source near the south-western extremity of the 
 Karori district. This valley bears the same character 
 as that of the Ohiro, and together with a tract of land 
 to the north, watered by streams which fall into the sea 
 north of Cape Terawiti, forms the Makara district. 
 This district contains thirty-nine sections.
 
 OHARIU DISTRICT. 109 
 
 To the S. and W. of Makara Valley lies a tract of 
 high, hilly pasture land, extending to Cape Terawiti, 
 in which only seven sections have been yet laid out, 
 and five chosen. 
 
 Immediately to the north of Cape Terawiti, there is 
 an indentation of the coast, and in it the mouths of two 
 streams called Ohaua and Ohariu, into the latter of 
 which canoes and small boats can enter at high water. 
 There is here a native village; and in the neighbour- 
 hood there are some wooded hollows, which boast an 
 excellent soil, and contain land sufficiently level for 
 arable purposes. In these hollows, and on the sur- 
 rounding hills between the sea and the neighbourhood 
 of Wellington, which are here and there open, and 
 excellently "adapted for pasture, 96 sections have been 
 laid out, and 87 chosen; these form the Ohariu district. 
 The principal fault of this district is the difficulty of 
 constructing a good road to Wellington, the intervening 
 country being very steep and rugged. The only roads 
 to it at present are two native footpaths, one of which 
 leads over a steep hill across the gully of the Kaiwara- 
 wara stream to Wade's Town, and the other over an 
 equally steep ridge to the Porirua road, (which will be 
 described immediately,) near the head of the Nga-hau- 
 ranga stream.* 
 
 South-west of Wade's Town, and on the western side 
 of the Tinakore hills, which slopes steeply down to the 
 Kaiwarawara stream, three sections have been laid out, 
 forming part of what is called the Kaiwarawara district. 
 Notwithstanding the precipitous nature of the land on 
 this hill-side, its proximity to Wellington, and its warm 
 north-west aspect, completely sheltered from the cold 
 winds, render it valuable for the purposes of orchards, 
 market-gardens, and suburban residences. 
 
 From the banks of the Kaiwarawara stream, near its 
 mouth, a bold road ascends in terraces up the face of 
 the northern hill. This is the Porirua road, at present 
 * See page 99.
 
 110 PORIRUA ROAD. JOHNSONVILLE. 
 
 the great outlet for travellers by land bound to the 
 north. About a mile along its picturesque curves, from 
 which views are obtained of Port Nicholson, Welling- 
 ton, and Wade's Town on the opposite side of the 
 gully, the road turns round to the northward, passing 
 through the upper part of the valley of a tributary of 
 the Kaiwarawara, in which there are several farms 
 and homesteads, and a saw -mill turned by water-power. 
 A section of one hundred acres, through which the road 
 passes, has been reserved for a Government Domain. 
 The land so far is of moderately good quality, improv- 
 ing as you descend towards the stream. Besides the 
 Government Domain, three sections, of 100 acres each, 
 are laid out along this road, and three more in the valley 
 of the Kaiwarawara. These, together with the three 
 sections mentioned on the west slope of the Tinakore 
 hills, form the Kaiwarawara district. 
 
 The road proceeds for four or five miles over some 
 undulating forest country, occasionally interspersed 
 with clearings and habitations, into the valley of the 
 Kenepuru river, which flows into the south arm of the 
 harbour of Porirua. Twenty-one sections are laid out 
 along this part of the road; and at one spot, about five 
 miles from Wellington, a collection of houses and a 
 Church, in the midst of a wide space of clearing, deserve 
 the rank of a village, and boast the somewhat Yankee 
 name of Johnsonville. There is also here a wooden 
 stockade, generally garrisoned by a small detachment 
 of troops from Wellington. The ground for the Church 
 and for a School and Parsonage, twenty acres in all, 
 was generously given for the purpose by the owners, the 
 Rev. Messrs. John and Stephen Hawtrey, who reside 
 in England. At this spot, the road crosses the head 
 waters of the Nga Hauranga stream; and here, too, 
 the foot-path, before mentioned, branches off to Ohariu.* 
 
 In the Kenepuru valley, along which the road runs 
 for about six miles after descending from the hills, the 
 land consists of the most fertile alluvial soil, similar to 
 * See page 109.
 
 FORIRUA HARBOUR. Ill 
 
 that in the valley of the Hutt, and comprises thirty-nine 
 sections, at present all covered with forest. An excel- 
 lent road has, however, now been completed along the 
 whole distance between Wellington and Porirua har- 
 bour; so that a large portion of this promising valley 
 will doubtless soon be cleared and brought under cul- 
 tivation. The New Zealand Company first expended 
 29891. 10s. on the making of this road, in length twelve 
 miles, seven furlongs, and ten poles, the cost being thus 
 2311. 12s. Sd. per mile: the settlers in the district 
 assisted with a considerable amount both of labour and 
 of materials; and the road has since been completed, in 
 a very creditable manner, by the working-parties of 
 troops and natives, at the total cost of about TOO/, per 
 mile. 
 
 The road emerges from the forest at the head of the 
 southern arm of Porirua harbour, where another stock- 
 ade, called Fort Elliott, is occupied by a small garrison: 
 and a track continues for about four miles, along the 
 western shore of that arm, to the Ferry across the outlet 
 of the harbour at Parramatta Point. 
 
 Porirua is nearly opposite the north end of Mana, or 
 Table Island; between which and the shore there is a 
 tolerably good roadstead, with four fathoms' water. 
 
 There is a bar at the entrance of Porirua harbour, on 
 which there are about fifteen feet at high-water spring 
 tides, the fall of tide varying from six to seven feet. 
 The entrance lies between the south shore and a reef 
 of rocks, always visible above water. Inside the bar 
 the water gradually deepens; but the shores close in till 
 there is only a gut about a hundred yards in breadth 
 between the south shore and Parramatta point; through 
 which the tide, on its ebb and flow, rushes with great 
 violence. From this point, close to which there is 
 good anchorage in twelve fathoms, two arms of the 
 harbour run north and south, each about three miles in 
 length. The country immediately surrounding the 
 shores of these two arms has a fertile soil, is mode- 
 rately hilly, and mostly covered with timber. Besides
 
 112 PARRAMATTA FERRY. 
 
 the valley of the Kenepuru, already described, there are 
 two streams, and level alluvial tracts of similar character, 
 at the northern extremity of the north arm, called Pau- 
 hatanui and Horokiwi. From these valleys and the 
 adjoining hills, the rebel natives under Rangihaeata 
 were driven in the skirmishes of 1846. Two stockades, 
 one of which is called Fort Strode, at different points 
 on this north arm, have been occupied by small military 
 detachments, with a view to prevent the return of the 
 turbulent natives from the fastnesses to which they 
 have fled: and the road is being continued by the Go- 
 vernment working-parties, round the eastern shore of 
 the harbour, so as to avoid the Ferry, and up the valley 
 and gorge of the Horokiwi, so as to emerge on the 
 level country already described as lying north of the 
 Bluffs at Paripari.* 
 
 There is a very good site for a small town at Parra- 
 matta Point, where a whaling station has been esta- 
 blished for many years. There is also a licensed 
 Tavern; and Barracks for the troops were built in 1846. 
 A regular Ferry has been established at the Point, with 
 an authorized scale of fees, which is as follows: 
 
 s. d. 
 
 For crossing at the Point, each person .... 3 
 
 horse 1 
 
 pig 03 
 
 To or from Fort Elliott, each person 1 6 
 
 Cooper's 09 
 
 Fort Strode , 09 
 
 Pauhatauui 1 6 
 
 One hundred and eighty-four sections are laid out in 
 the country immediately bordering on Porirua harbour, 
 in the Pauhatanui and Horokiwi valleys, and on the 
 slopes of the adjoining hills. 
 
 Between these districts together with the Kenepuru 
 valley, and the hills on the western shore of Port Nichol- 
 son, the Tukapu and Horokiwi Road districts, contain- 
 ing seventy-three sections, have been laid out in a 
 thickly-wooded and comparatively mountainous country, 
 * See page 88.
 
 BRIDLE-PATH. 113 
 
 portions of which, however, are land of the most fertile 
 character. 
 
 The whole of the peninsula, between the south arm 
 of Porirua harbour and Cook's Strait, has been given 
 up to the natives, under a recent arrangement made 
 with them by Governor Grey, and also the five most 
 southerly sections on the eastern shore of that arm. 
 For sixteen sections, which had been selected within 
 the tract so ceded, land is to be given to the owners iu 
 other parts of the district, or elsewhere. 
 
 Considerable water-power is afforded by the Kene- 
 puru, Tukapu, Pauhatanui, and Horokiwi streams; and 
 the strong tide-race at Parramatta Point might perhaps 
 be turned to advantage in the same way. 
 
 Until the completion of the military road through 
 the Horokiwi valley and gorge, there is only a bridle- 
 path between Parramatta Point and the sandy beach 
 beyond Paripari. This path leads first along the north 
 shore of the entrance to the harbour, past a small valley 
 and native settlement called Taupo, where the capture 
 of the rebel chief Rauperaha was gallantly effected by 
 Captain Edward Stanley, of H. M. S. Calliope, and a 
 party of blue-jackets. Then, ascending a ridge of the 
 wooded hills, it passes through a considerable tract of 
 ancient native cultivations, and then through gently 
 undulating forest-country for about five miles. It next 
 emerges in native cultivations on a high table-hind 
 above the native village of Pukerua, whence there is a 
 fine view of Kapiti, or Entry Island, and of the adjoining 
 level land, reaching out in a long point to the north- 
 ward. A somewhat abrupt descent leads on to the 
 sea-beach below Pukerua village; and the way then 
 lies along a shingly beach, studded with rocks, imme- 
 diately backed by almost perpendicular Bluffs, about 
 three hundred feet in height, but covered with verdure 
 to the water's edge. This part of the road is about 
 four miles in length, and it passes at one place through 
 an arch in a rocky spur of the hills which juts into the 
 
 L2
 
 114 WAIKANAE. OTAKI. 
 
 sea at high water. The pretty native settlement of 
 Paripari is built on a kind of terrace in these Bluff 
 hills, and there are several small gardens of kumera, or 
 sweet potato,* also on terraces, in the neighbourhood. 
 
 Half a mile beyond this settlement the hills retire 
 inland, and the shore assumes the character of a broad 
 sandy beach, backed by sand-hills, and low, level, open 
 country, as far north as the mouth of the Wanganui 
 river, in latitude 39 57' south. One mile from the end 
 of the rocks, the Wainui rivulet flows into the sea, near 
 the small native settlement of the same name. At in- 
 tervals of one mile and a half, the Wareroa and Ware- 
 mauku streams have their mouths; and at each of these 
 mouths there is also a small native village. These 
 three streams are fordable at all times. Three miles 
 farther on, there is another native settlement, called 
 Te Uruhi; and two miles on to the north, a large na- 
 tive village, called Waikanae, at the mouth of a small 
 river of that name, which, joined with another, called 
 the "Waimea, flows into the sea opposite Kapiti, or 
 Entry Island. The mouth of the river is choked with 
 sand-banks, and fordable at half-tide; but at high- 
 water a good-sized boat can enter and ascend the Wai- 
 kanae for about six miles. The hills are about seven 
 miles from the sea here; and the level tract in the inter- 
 vening space contains some land of very fine quality. 
 Much of it is cultivated by the native population, which 
 amounts to 500 or 600 souls. An excellent missionary of 
 the Church of England, the Rev. Octavius Hadfield, re- 
 sided here for five years, and during that space of time 
 effected great improvement in the condition, both moral 
 and physical, of the inhabitants of this and the neigh- 
 bouring villages. Among other things, he encouraged 
 them to grow wheat, which they have done very suc- 
 cessfully, to the extent of some hundred acres. The 
 Chapel in the village, built under his superintendence, 
 is famous as a piece of native workmanship. 
 
 The holders of some of the later orders of choice, 
 * See page 149.
 
 NATIVE CIVILIZATION. 115 
 
 who had reserved their choices until the whole of the 
 land to be offered for selection should have been sur- 
 veyed, were allowed the option of selecting tracts of 
 land in unsurveyed parts of the district, subject to the 
 condition that the consent of the natives claiming such 
 tracts should be obtained at the cost and trouble of the 
 selector,. Under these terms, a few sections were 
 selected on the banks of the Waikanae and Waimea 
 rivers; but no final arrangement respecting their occu- 
 pation has yet been made with the natives. It was 
 here that Governor Fitzroy, in January, 1844, visited 
 Rauperaha and Rangihaeata, in order to forgive them 
 for the massacre of Wairau, and to tell them that the 
 white men were in the wrong.* 
 
 Twelve 'miles north of Waikanae is another river, 
 called the Otaki, into which boats can enter at high 
 water; but it is not navigable for more than half a 
 mile from the mouth, on account of shingle-banks and 
 collections of drift-wood. The Otaki is fordable at the 
 mouth at low-water. There are here two or three 
 native villages of the Ngatiraukawa tribe, altogether 
 possessing a resident population of about 400 souls. 
 Mr. Hadtield divided his time between this settlement 
 and Waikanae; and produced as remarkable an im- 
 provement in one community as in the other. From 
 the time of their migration to Cook's Strait, in about 
 1834, to his arrival in 1840, these two tribes had been 
 constantly in a state of deadly feud; but he succeeded, 
 not only in preventing any recurrence of hostilities, but 
 in producing a lasting peace between them. Here, 
 also, the natives have some wheat in cultivation, and 
 have lately subscribed 300/. for the erection, by white 
 mechanics, of a joint-stock water-mill to grind their 
 flour. There would be ample water-power for several 
 mills on this river and its tributaries. 
 
 The level country here, between the sea and the foot 
 of the Tararua mountains, is rather broader than at Wai- 
 kanae, and possesses generally a very rich soil. Several 
 * See page 76.
 
 116 OHAU. 
 
 hundred acres of land, which the natives have aban- 
 doned, after taking two or three successive crops of 
 potatoes, are now overrun with a natural growth, which 
 renews itself every year, of wild oats, five feet high; 
 yellow trefoil, half that height; and luxuriant timothy 
 grass. Here, also, a few sections were selected, under 
 the same circumstances as at Waikanae. Several 
 Europeans, squatters by permission of the natives, and 
 most of them living with native women, are located in 
 this neighbourhood, as well as in three or four places 
 between this and Porirua. They are most of them 
 connected in some way with the whaling-stations situ- 
 ated in different parts of Cook's Strait. 
 
 There are licensed Taverns, kept by Englishmen, at 
 Te Uruhi and at Otaki, which afford comfortable ac- 
 commodation to travellers. 
 
 Five miles north of Otaki is the mouth of the Ohau 
 river. At low water, this river is easily fordable; but 
 at high water, a large boat or canoe may enter and 
 proceed two or three miles up the Ohau, and half a 
 mile up its southern tributary, the Waikawa, which 
 flows into it from the south-east, about two hundred 
 yards above its mouth. There are several villages and 
 large cultivations of the natives, on the banks of these 
 two rivers. The permanent population, however, is 
 not more than 250; as the people come hither from 
 their regular residence at Otaki, at various times, 
 in order to keep up their cultivations. Two or three 
 European squatters live in the same district; and there 
 is a licensed Tavern at the river's mouth. 
 
 The Ohau and Waikawa would both afford nume- 
 rous mill-sites. The land through which they flow is 
 of the richest description, very similar to that in the 
 valley of the Hutt. 
 
 Proceeding along the sandy beach for seventeen 
 miles, in the course of which three minor rivulets 
 trickle over it, you arrive at the mouth of the Mana- 
 watu, one of the two largest rivers which flow into 
 Cook's Strait on the north shore.
 
 MANAWATU DISTRICT. 117 
 
 Another path leads from a spot about four miles up 
 the right bank of the Ohau, to a spot about the same 
 distance up the left bank of the Manawatu. This 
 inland path passes by two fresh-water Lakes. One, 
 Papai Tonga, or " Beautiful South," close to the Ohau 
 river, and drained into it by a small tributary, is about 
 two miles in circumference. The other, Horowenua, 
 or " Landslip," four miles more to the north, is about 
 five miles in circumference, and its superfluous waters 
 flow into the sea by one of the rivulets mentioned 
 above, which would turn a small mill. The country 
 passed through along this path is chiefly open land 
 covered with natural pasturage, but dotted here and 
 there with groves of timber. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of the Manawatu River and 
 Lake Horowenua a large district of most fertile country 
 has been surveyed and laid out in sections, 329 of 
 which have been selected. The districts of Manawatu 
 and Horowenua so surveyed are bounded: on the 
 north-west by the Manawatu River; on the east by the 
 Tararua range; on the west by a line drawn parallel 
 to the sea-coast about half a mile inland of it, so as not 
 to include the barren sand-hummocks; and on the 
 south by the Horowenua stream and Lake, and a line 
 drawn from the south end of the Lake to the nearest 
 point of the mountains. About 150 of the sections in 
 the Manawatu, or eastern district of the two, are in a 
 swamp, which will be easily drained, so as to afford the 
 richest soil; and the rest are level forest land, covered 
 with deep vegetable deposit and alluvial soil from the 
 annual freshets. With the exception of a few woody 
 sections, and a few more of reclaimable swamp, the 
 Horowenua district, consisting altogether of 1 92 sec- 
 tions, spreads over open pasture or fern land. 
 
 There is one small native village on the banks of the 
 Horowenua stream, and another at the north end of 
 the Lake. A third village is situated about half-way 
 between the Lake and the Manawatu river.
 
 118 MANAWATU EIVER. 
 
 The following directions for entering the mouth of 
 the Manawatu are quoted from the Cook's Strait 
 Almanack for 1846 : 
 
 " EIVEB MANAWATU (Pa Papangaio, south bank of river) ; S. Lat. 
 40 2& ; E. long. 175 8' 11" ; Sp. rise 9 ft. ; ordinary tides 
 6ft. 
 
 " Seven feet water in the channel over the bar at low-water spring 
 tides ; under the high bank near Pa Papangaio, (south bank,) from 
 10J to 21 feet low-water spring tides. 
 
 " Sailing Directions. Vessels coming from the N.W. or S.W., 
 should open Pa Warangi (N. bank) clear of the breakers on the 
 south spit, bringing the North Beacon to bear N.E. by E. f E., and 
 the South Beacon S.S.E. f E. ; the high peak of Kapiti will then be 
 found S. by W. J W., and the Pa S.E. by E. | E. Steer for the Pa ; 
 sailing a little more than a quarter of a mile in this direction, the 
 vessel will be in the most shallow part she has to cross, or on the 
 bar ; the water will be found to deepen as she proceeds. When she 
 brings the South Beacon abeam, she must hug the north shore till 
 she makes Pa Warangi, then steer for a beacon about 150 yards 
 east of the Pa Papangaio, then hug the south shore, the deep water 
 being under the high bank. 
 
 " In making this river, it should be observed that there is a 
 remarkable grove of trees on the north side about three miles inland. 
 It is the first grove to the north of Waikanae, and serves as a good 
 landmark." 
 
 The course of the Manawatu is exceedingly tortuous; 
 so much so, that the natives have a legend that it was 
 formed by an Atua, or " Evil Spirit," who was in the 
 form of a large Totara-tree, and wormed himself along 
 like an eel on his way from the east coast to Cook's 
 Strait. His name was Okatia; and he was said to 
 have followed the course of a principal tributary of the 
 Manawatu, called the Tirumea, which takes its source 
 on the western side of the Puketoi mountains, which 
 have already been described as separating the highest 
 part of the eastern series of plains from the east coast. 
 One point on the banks of the Manawatu, thirty-six 
 miles by the windings of the river, is only eight in a 
 straight line from the sea. 
 
 As far as regards depth of water, any vessel which can 
 cross the bar may ascend the river for fifty-two miles 
 from its mouth; but the tide does not flow so as to assist
 
 STEAM SAW-MILL. 119 
 
 navigation against the stream for more than two-thirds 
 of that distance. After heavy floods the water runs 
 downwards during both ebb and flow, and a great deal 
 of heavy timber is carried along to the sea, which renders 
 precaution necessary in entering the river during the 
 winter season. An Englishman has a house of enter- 
 tainment for travellers, and keeps a ferry-boat on the 
 south bank, about a mile from the mouth. Twelve or 
 fifteen white squatters reside at a spot called Karekare, 
 seventeen miles up the left bank, and have small patches 
 of land under cultivation. 
 
 Nearly opposite, on the north bank, two brothers, 
 named Kebbell, set up, in the middle of the year 1842, 
 a Steam saw-mill of twenty -horse power, which they 
 had brought from England to "Wellington, and thence 
 by sea to this place. They had hoped to derive a 
 considerable profit from cutting up and shipping the 
 timber, of which there is an unlimited supply, of excel- 
 lent quality, for seventy miles along both banks of the 
 river. They persevered in a remarkable way till their 
 undertaking was complete. They made friends with a 
 large number of natives, and employed many of them 
 to assist in the work, after paying them for permission 
 to occupy a small plot of land, for the Company was 
 understood not to have treated with the resident natives 
 for any land on the north bank of the river. Gable 
 after gable, and roof after roof, almost all composed of 
 thatch on wooden frame-work, were added to the irre- 
 gular building, as different parts of the machinery were 
 erected and required protection. At length the cast- 
 iron chimney, forty feet high, rose from the midst of 
 the heap of angles, and the steam was set going. It 
 is not easy to conceive the admiration which was ex- 
 cited among the natives. Owing, however, to the 
 abundance of good timber in all parts of the country 
 immediately neighbouring to Wellington, the specu- 
 lation of a saw-mill at this spot did not succeed. By 
 a misfortune, too, the thatched building caught fire;
 
 120 WA1NUI-0-MATA. 
 
 and though the machinery was preserved from serious 
 injury, the enterprising proprietors underwent a severe 
 loss of other property on the premises. Recently they 
 have adapted the mill to the purpose of grinding flour 
 as well as cutting timber; and it is to be hoped that 
 the increasing cultivation of wheat among the natives, 
 as well as that which will ere long be carried on by 
 white settlers in this district, may speedily repay them 
 for their praiseworthy outlay and perseverance against 
 difficulties. 
 
 The native villages on the banks of this river are 
 numerous, and the cultivations attached to them exten- 
 sive. They are reckoned to contain a population of 
 3400 souls. 
 
 Thirty miles above the end of the clear navigation, 
 or eighty-two miles from the sea by the tortuous course 
 of the river, but only sixty miles in a straight line, is 
 the Gorge, by which the Manawatu rushes through the 
 mountain range, between that part of it called Tararua 
 to the south, and that to the north called Ruahine. 
 
 East of Port Nicholson and of the Valley of the 
 Hutt and its tributaries, lie two or three ranges of 
 wooded hills which separate that district from the plain 
 of the Wairarapa. Among these hills are several hol- 
 lows of greater or less extent. In one of them, close 
 at the back of Lowry Bay, fifteen sections have been laid 
 out, and eleven chosen. This is called the Lowry Bay Dis- 
 trict. It is rather swampy at present, but when drained 
 will doubtless be found of good quality. A moderately 
 good road has been made to it over a ridge of hills from 
 Lowry Bay, by the joint contributions of the Company 
 and of some of the neighbouring settlers, as well as of 
 some of the absentee proprietors of land in the vicinity. 
 
 The waters of this district and of the hills immedi- 
 ately surrounding it, flow off by a stream called Wai- 
 nui-o-mata, to the sea between Baring Head and Cape 
 Turakirai, east of the harbour's mouth. In the narrow 
 valley of this stream, which runs parallel with the eastern
 
 WAI KARA PA PLAINS. 121 
 
 shore of Port Nicholson, and immediately behind the first 
 range of hills which bounds the harbour in that direc- 
 tion, thirty-nine sections have been laid out, and thirty- 
 four chosen. 
 
 Two or three other ranges of hills, varying in height, 
 lie between this district and the plain of the Wairarapa, 
 which may be reached by a foot-path across the hills, 
 starting from Lowry Bay. This path is not thought 
 practicable for sheep or cattle, which have as yet 
 always been driven round by the sea-shore. 
 
 The following description of the TVairarapa district 
 is transcribed, with some few emendations now neces- 
 sary, from the Cook's Strait Almanack for 1846: 
 
 " The valley of the Wairarapa lies nearly north and south, and is 
 about sixty miles long, and averages rather more than nine miles in 
 width, containing about 400,000 acres ; four-fifths of this extent is 
 a dead level, and the remainder undulating land. Of the level 
 country there appears to be about 80,000 acres of wood land, finely 
 timbered with Totara, Matai, Miro, Kahikatea, Manuka,* &c., the 
 soil of which is particularly good : about 200,000 acres consist of 
 open land covered with grass, fern, anise, flax, and tohe-tohe ;+ the 
 level land is intersected by several swamps, but most of them could 
 be easily drained. The soil of the open land in the lower part of 
 the valley is in general clayey and gravelly, but some of the plains 
 are of a very good soil. The undulating land consists chiefly of 
 grass or fern land. At the southern end of the valley are two lakes, 
 covering an area of about 50,000 acres, but they are so shallow as 
 to be comparatively useless : there is no entrance seaward, in conse- 
 quence of a complete bar of sand ; and they are surrounded by a tract 
 of low swampy land. The bar, which is formed by the southerly winds, 
 to the full force of which Palliser Bay lies entirely exposed, closes the 
 lake during the summer months (generally from December to May) 
 until the accumulated waters burst the barriers that confine them, 
 and open a passage to the sea. The river Ruamahanga runs through 
 the whole valley, and loses itself in the lakes ; it is from six to nine 
 chains wide ; the channel of the river, until it leaves the lakes, is 
 deep enough for a vessel of fifty tons, and whale-boats can ascend 
 the river for twenty or thirty miles above the lake ; after which it 
 becomes a succession of shoals and falls, so much so that it is 
 
 * For descriptions of these indigenous forest-trees, the first four 
 of which are generally indicative of a good soil, see a later part of 
 this chapter, page 140. 
 
 + A large grass-like plant, eaten by horses and cattle. See p. 14-v 
 

 
 122 WAIRARAPA PLAINS. 
 
 only in times of freshets that canoes can reach further, and then 
 they can be poled up to within a few miles of the head of the valley. 
 The floods rise suddenly and considerably ; the greatest rise which 
 has yet been experienced is sixteen feet. 
 
 " The district maybe divided into three parts, each possessing its 
 distinct and peculiar characters : the lowest part, or that nearest the 
 sea, and the western side of the lakes, is mostly swampy, and is 
 covered during the winter months with water ; the eastern side, on 
 which the stations are formed, consists chiefly of grass land ; the 
 lower ground, near the river, consists of the wood land previously 
 described. Beyond these, in what may be termed the valley of the 
 Upper Wairarapa, (by far the larger division of the district.) there 
 are magnificent grassy plains, intersected by belts of wood and 
 watered by numerous streams, the soil of which is of the richest 
 description. This district is easily connected with the plains of 
 Hauriri, which, at a moderate estimate, comprise an area of 500 
 square miles of level grass land, from which there is an easy com- 
 munication with the Manawatu district. 
 
 " The distance from Wellington to the ferry across the lake is about 
 forty-one miles along the coast, which has hitherto been the only 
 way of approach ; but, as has been before described, at no distant 
 period a somewhat shorter road will be formed through the Hutt 
 district, and the valley of the Pakiritahi to Pai-tu-mokai, at the 
 eastern foot of the Bimutaka range, near the north end of the lake.* 
 This will eventually become the great northern road, and be the best 
 route for communicating with Auckland, through the interior. After 
 crossing a low range of hills at the head of the valley, the road would 
 pass through the grassy plains of Hauriri, thence to the country on 
 the eastern shore of Taupo, and over -the Waikato plains to Auckland. 
 
 " The coast road, though rough, and in some places difficult, does 
 not present any very serious obstacles in driving over cattle and 
 sheep. The worst part of the journey is the passing the Muka 
 Muka rocks,! " )U ' ^ care * s taken to reach, them half an hour before 
 low water, by persons driving over sheep, (the time of high water at 
 the Muka Muka rocks being about tliirty-five minutes earlier than 
 at Wellington,) no difficulty will be found in passing them. These 
 rocks may be easily passed at half tide by persons not travelling 
 with stock. At the end of this brief notice an account is given of 
 the driving of Messrs. Tiffin and Northwood's sheep to their station, 
 a distance of seventy-three miles from Wellington, which will be 
 found nseful to persons about to form sheep stations. 
 
 " The first station at Wairarapa was established by Messrs. Clifford 
 and Vavasour, in the beginning of the year 1844, since which time 
 the stations have gradually increased in number. The number of 
 sheep and cattle stations in March, 1847, was fifteen. These 
 receive their supplies from Wellington, but sufficient wheat is cul- 
 
 * See page 106. t These are East of Cape Turakirae.
 
 SHEEP-FARMING. 123 
 
 tivated at each station, as soon after its formation as the season 
 permits, to supply those who have the care of it with flour ; and a 
 garden well stocked with vegetables is to be found at most of the 
 stations. A yearly rent is paid to the natives by the owners of the 
 different stations, averaging about twenty pounds a year each. The 
 stations vary in size, and the owners of some of the larger stations 
 pay more than twice the above amount as rent to the natives, 
 according to the extent of land they occupy. The ferry across the 
 lake is also in the hands of the natives, and is a source of much 
 annoyance to the settlers, from the arbitrary and exorbitant charges 
 usually exacted. Most of the stations are bounded on either side 
 by streams, and are well watered, so that the facilities for washing 
 the wool at sheep- shearing are very great. The shearing of the 
 sheep usually commences about the middle of December. In New 
 South Wales 2 Ibs. is found to be the average weight of a fleece, 
 but from the superiority of the food and climate in New Zealand, 
 the wool is found to increase in weight and length of staple, and the 
 average weight of a fine-wooled fleece may be correctly stated at 
 from 3 Ibs. to 4 Ibs. But we may shortly hope for still greater 
 improvements in the wool from the stations at Wairarapa, from the 
 introduction, by Mr. Clifford, in 1846, of some of Lord Western's 
 celebrated breed of pure Merino rams from England, which will 
 increase not only the fineness of the wool and length of staple, but 
 also the weight of carcase. Another peculiarity connected with 
 this part of the subject deserves notice. In England during the 
 winter, from different causes, and in New South Wales in the dry 
 weather, from want of sufficient food, the Merino sheep receive a 
 check, and a joint is formed in the wool which injures the staple ; 
 but in New Zealand, from the more equable climate and abundance 
 of pasture, this peculiarity does not exist, and the sheep continue to 
 thrive and the wool to grow all the year round. Another advantage 
 is to be found in the absence of burrs in the New Zealand runs ;* 
 in New South Wales these are found to tear the wool, so as ma- 
 terially to injure the fleece and diminish the quantity of wool. 
 
 " The best time for lambing has not yet been ascertained. Stations 
 have been formed at different times of the year, and the ewes brought 
 down from New South Wales have been mostly in lamb. In the 
 season 1845 the lambing commenced at some of the stations in the 
 beginning of July, and continued until the end of November. It is 
 thought that the beginning of October will be found the most favour- 
 able time, as the spring lambs will escape the wet weather and cold 
 winds which prevail in the winter. The yearly increase from the 
 average of the different stations in the season Ib44 is stated to have 
 been ninety per cent., and at one of the largest stations the increase 
 has been found to be upwards of 100 per cent. 
 
 * In some parts of N ew Zealand there does exist a small burr, 
 called otiwai ; but this does not appear to be the case at Wairarapa. 
 Ed. Handbook for N. Z.
 
 124 WAIRARAPA PLAINS. 
 
 " From the various description of laud included iu the sheep runs, 
 it is difficult to state with accuracy the average number of sheep per 
 acre which can be maintained on them in their present state ; it is 
 found that a great improvement speedily takes place, both in the 
 quantity and quality of the pasture, after a station has been some 
 time established; that wherever the fern grows it speedily disap- 
 pears, and fine grass springs up in its place; so that these runs will 
 in a few years be able to keep a much greater number of sheep than 
 they could now support, from the superior quality and increased 
 quantity of the food. 
 
 " The best time for forming a station is during the summer 
 months, not later than the 1st of May. The sheep should be 
 brought from Sydney shorn, and not in lamb. After they have been 
 landed, and have in some degree recovered from the effects of the 
 voyage, they should be put to the ram, so as to begin lambing by 
 the 1st of October. 
 
 " During the winter months sheep should be brought from Sydney 
 MHs/wrn, to protect them from the wet and cold, of which after the 
 voyage the Merino sheep are very susceptible; particularly after 
 leaving the warm dry climate of New South Wales. 
 
 " The climate of the valley of theWairarapa is very different to that 
 of Wellington ; being more inland, it is not so exposed to the wind, 
 and is consequently warmer, with less rain during the winter months. 
 The settlers there state that the winter of 1845 has resembled the 
 month of May in England in point of climate and temperature. 
 
 " A dray road is in contemplation from the most northern station 
 to Tekopi, on the eastern side of Palliser Bay, where there is ail 
 anchorage for small coasting vessels, which will enable the owners 
 of the stations to send their wool to Wellington. 
 
 " Butter and cheese, the produce of the dairy stations at Wairarapa, 
 are sent to Wellington, where they find a ready market. 
 
 " Notes of a Journey to Wairarapa with a Flock of Slieep. 
 
 " August 23, 1845. Left Wellington with 762 ewes, all within 
 six weeks of lambing, and reached Waiwetu ; ferried them across 
 without any accident. 
 
 " 24. Left Waiwetu, crossed the hill at Lowry Bay, (which we 
 have since found to be the worst part of the driving,) reached 
 Okiwi at night. Several rocky points to be passed, which can only 
 be done by a flock of sheep at low water. 
 
 " 25. Rested at Okiwi ; one ewe died through eating Tutu.* 
 
 " 26. Travelled from Okiwi to Paraugarau ; after passing Okiwi 
 there is one point to go round at low water, and then the road takes 
 up a bad gully to the summit of the hills, and after four or five 
 miles, descends into Fitzroy Bay. When the salt-water lake is open 
 at the mouth it would be hazardous to cross sheep, as the current 
 is very strong, although the channel is but narrow. 
 
 * Coriaria sarmcntosa, a poisonous plant. See p. 148.
 
 ITINERARY FROM WELLINGTON. 125 
 
 "27. Travelled from Parangarau to Orongorougo, three mjles 
 only; crossed tlie Wainui-o-mata and Oroiigorongo* very easily, 
 there being but little water : these rivers are uiifordable after much 
 rain. Bested the sheep for half a day. 
 
 " '' '.I. Proceeded to Waimarara, the road very rough and stony. 
 
 "29. Reached Mukamukanui. One bad cliff to ascend, and 
 much rough rocky road. 
 
 " 30. Passed 450 sheep round the Mukamuka rocks ; at one of 
 the poiuts a gap has been cut, but as it is seven or eight feet above 
 the level of the beach, it is necessary to pile up the stones for them 
 to ascend by ; we passed with the greatest ease and reached Waripapa. 
 
 "81. Passed the remainder round the rocks, and with similar 
 ease. 
 
 " September 1. Started from Waripapa, ferried the sheep across 
 the lake ; the bar being open, halted at Turanganui. 
 
 " "2. Travelled from Tnranganui to Tauanui. 
 
 " 3. From Tauauui to Tuitarata some indifferent driving, owing 
 to the road lying through some high fern and two belts of bush. 
 
 " A. From Tuitarata to Warekaka, 5 miles of very good driving. 
 
 " 5. From Warekaka to Huangarua, nine miles of open grass land. 
 
 " 6. Reached Ahiaruhe with 758 sheep, two having died, one left 
 behind, being maimed, and one missing. 
 
 " ITINEBABY TO WAIKABAPA. 
 
 " From Pipitea to Waiwetu 7 miles. 
 
 Waiwetu to Okiwi 6 
 
 Okiwi to Parangarau , 7 
 
 Parangarau to Orongorongo 3J 
 
 Orongorongo to Waimarara 5 
 
 Waimarara to Mukamuka rocks 5 
 
 Mukamuka rocks to commencement of 
 
 Wairarapa valley 2 
 
 ., Ferry across lake to pa Pokokirikiri 6 
 
 Pokokirikiri to ' Traveller's Rest,' at Tu- 
 ranganui, or to Mr. Kelly's station 2 
 
 ' Traveller's Rest' to Tauanui (Messrs. 
 
 Charlton and Co.) 3 
 
 Tauanui to Tuiterata (Mr. M'Master)... 4J 
 Tuiterata to Warekaka, (Messrs. Clifford 
 
 and Vavasour) 5J 
 
 Warekaka to Kopungarara, Mr. Bidwillt 5 
 Warekaka to Huangarua, C apt. Smith... 9 
 Huangarua to Ahiaruhe (Messrs. North- 
 wood and Tiffin) 8 
 
 Ahiaruhe to head of valley, about 18 
 
 * These two rivers are close together. Five sections have been 
 laid out and selected at the mouth of the latter. 
 
 + This station does not lie in the direct road up the valley. 
 
 M 2
 
 126 
 
 STATISTICS OF WAIRARAPA. 
 
 oj pml 
 
 Ul SO.W V 
 
 oo 
 
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 t-o 
 
 OJ 0? 
 
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 ueJpUMO 
 
 s 
 
 - 
 
 ?S
 
 KNTRY ISLAND. 127 
 
 Even so soon as December 28, 1847, notwithstand- 
 ing the large consumption of meat by the troops and 
 road-parties, and the drafting of several large flocks to 
 newly-formed stations on the Middle Island, these 
 numbers were augmented considerably, whether by im- 
 portations or natural increase; for an Official statistical 
 return, made by Mr. Macarthy, the Collector of Cus- 
 toms at Wellington, under that date, states that there 
 were at Wairarapa alone, 79 horses, 1607 head of cattle, 
 100 goats, and 15,011 sheep. 
 
 Similar stations to those formed in the Wairarapa 
 have lately been established by squatters from Wel- 
 lington, at Kaikoura, a fine district of pastoral country, 
 about thirty miles south of Cape Campbell, on the 
 eastern side of the Middle Island. Mr. Macarthy's 
 return states that at the end of 1847 there were, at dif- 
 ferent stations on the Middle Island, belonging to 
 Wellington settlers, 115 horses, 760 head of cattle, and 
 12,000 sheep. 
 
 Kapiti, or Entry Island, lies about four miles from 
 the coast, near the mouth of the Waikanae river. It 
 is about eight or ten miles in length, by two or three 
 miles in breadth. With the exception of a few small 
 patches of land near the water's edge the largest of 
 which is at Long Point, at the north-east end of the 
 island Kapiti consists of steep hills, almost entirely 
 covered with forest. One high peak, generally capped 
 with clouds in stormy weather, rises nearly in the centre 
 of the island, and shoots out numerous ridges, like 
 claws, to the outer edge. These ridges vary in steep- 
 ness, and in the extent of table-land on their summits; 
 and the intervening spaces are either precipitous gullies, 
 or valleys of easier slope, each furnished with a rill of 
 pure water. Extensive patches have been cleared of 
 wood by the natives, at remote periods, and a few na- 
 tive slaves work at the present time in some choice 
 places, and reside during the season of cultivation in 
 groups of huts perched in picturesque spots among the
 
 128 TABLE ISLAND. 
 
 high grounds. Wherever the land has been cleared, a 
 very rich natural pasturage has sprung up among the 
 bleached trunks of the dead trees, chiefly consisting of 
 timothy-grass and yellow trefoil. 
 
 About a hundred head of wild cattle, descended from 
 two or three couple which were landed here from 
 Sydney some years ago, roam about the island, and 
 have contributed to improve the growth and luxuriance 
 of this natural herbage. Two or three streams on 
 Kapiti would be available for mill purposes. 
 
 Close to the island of Kapiti, and in-shore of its 
 southern extremity, lie three rocky islets, respectively 
 called Evans's, Hiko's, and Mayhew's Islands. These 
 islets, and some adjoining reefs of rock, afford anchorage 
 for a limited number of ships. The inner anchorage 
 especially, between the islets, is remarkably secure; but 
 the outer one, off Evans's Island, is more convenient 
 for large ships, because it affords greater facility for 
 getting under way. 
 
 A whaling-station is established at the north-east 
 end of the principal island. 
 
 Mana, or Table Island, is about two miles long, by 
 half a mile broad. A sheep station was established 
 here as early as 1838, and there are still some sheep 
 and cattle on the island. With the exception of a 
 valley on the eastern or landward side, the whole island 
 forms an elevated table-land, covered with good pas- 
 turage for sheep. Previous to the recent native re- 
 bellion, Rangihaeata resided in a village in this valley. 
 A whaling-station, employing two boats and seventeen 
 men, is also established on the mainland, opposite 
 Mana. 
 
 Several other whaling-stations also exist, connected 
 with the port, though not all of them within what has 
 been described as the district, of Wellington. Some of 
 these are situated at various points on the east coast of 
 the Middle Island, between Queen Charlotte's Sound 
 and Foveaux's Strait; two at New Plymouth; and a
 
 CLIMATE. 
 
 129 
 
 large number at various places on the east coast of the 
 North Island, between Cape Palliser and East Cape. 
 They are fitted out for the capture of the black or 
 " right" whale,* which approaches the shores of New 
 Zealand during the calving season, from May to Octo- 
 ber, inclusive; but occasionally spermf or hump-back| 
 whales also near the land sufficiently to be taken by 
 the shore-parties. 
 
 The Climate of the Wellington district is a very fair 
 average specimen of that of New Zealand generally, the 
 latitude of the Town of Wellington being about 41 
 south, or as nearly as possible half-way between the ex- 
 treme northern and southern extremities of the group in 
 34 and 48 south. That portion of the district, how- 
 ever, which immediately adjoins on the narrowest part 
 of Cook's- Strait, is subject to a large share of the strong 
 winds, which draw both ways through that passage. 
 
 The following is an account of the weather kept at 
 Judge Chapman's residence at Karon, 591 feet above 
 the level of the sea, and about two miles west of the 
 centre of the town of Wellington, during the six winter 
 months of 1845. This situation is subject to a colder 
 temperature in winter, but is better sheltered from all 
 winds, than the town. 
 
 Kind of Day. 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 Juns 
 
 July 
 
 Aug. 
 
 Sept. 
 
 Six months. 
 
 Fine and sunny . 
 Cloudy, but fair . 
 Showery 
 
 21 
 4 
 5 
 
 19 
 
 2 
 4 
 
 1(5 
 3 
 6 
 
 18 
 1 
 8 
 
 18 
 1 
 12 
 
 21 
 
 
 8 
 
 113 
 11 
 43 
 
 Rainy 
 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 30 
 
 31 
 
 30 
 
 31 
 
 31 
 
 30 
 
 183 
 
 Gales of wind . . 
 Night frosts . . . 
 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 :! 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 3 
 
 4 
 3 
 
 17 
 
 22 
 
 * Bahena Anttpodum, + Physeter Macroceplwtliis. 
 
 J Balaena Gibbosa. 
 
 For a statistical account of these whaling parties, see the end 
 of this chapter.
 
 130 CLIMATE. 
 
 Lightning and thunder are very unusual in the 
 neighbourhood of Wellington, even in summer; during 
 the six months above mentioned it only occurred three 
 times, once accompanied by hail. 
 
 The night frosts in the above table are such only as 
 to cover the ground with hoar until 8 or 9 A.M. On 
 one morning the glass was observed at 34 Fahrenheit 
 at 8 A.M., and on several other mornings at 36. But 
 in lower situations even this slight degree of cold is 
 exceedingly rare; and it never occurs with sufficient 
 severity to check vegetation anywhere within the dis- 
 trict. During these six months at Karori the tempe- 
 rature during the day was generally mild; the usual 
 range of thermometer being from 45 to 56. 
 
 What are marked as " gales" should rather be called 
 fresh breezes. There is comparatively little wind in 
 winter, but the spring, and until after Christmas, is 
 windy. 
 
 " Rainy" means continued rain, for half the day and 
 more. " Showery" varies from a slight shower to 
 alternate rain and fair for the whole day. In May, 
 July, August, and September, there was often rain in 
 the night, after fine and showery days. 
 
 Generally speaking, the seasons may be said to be 
 retarded as well as reversed from those of England. 
 
 That is, continued fine weather cannot be relied on 
 until after the summer solstice, nor does bad weather 
 set in until about the end of June. From September 
 until Christmas may be called growing weather; from 
 January to March, steady ripening weather. As far 
 as the experience of nearly six years extends, sufficient 
 moisture for the growth of crops and vegetables may 
 always be relied on, and bad harvest weather is 
 unknown. It is impossible to conceive a state of the 
 seasons more favourable to agriculture. 
 
 A very fair conception may be formed of the climate 
 of Wellington and its neighbourhood, from the fol- 
 lowing " Calendar of Garden Work," published in the
 
 GARDENING CALENDAR. 131 
 
 Cook's Strait Almanack for 1848, and founded on 
 seven years' experience. It is proper to observe that 
 these directions are chiefly intended for gardens in the 
 vicinity of Wellington, but may be easily adapted 
 according to circumstances to other situations in the 
 Settlements in Cook's Strait. 
 
 "JANUARY. Flower Garden: Lay picotees, plant out seedling 
 carnations and geraniums, plant geranium cuttings ; clean the beds 
 from weeds, and save such flower seeds as are ripe. As this month 
 is generally dry, the plants will require frequent watering. Kitclien 
 (iiinli'ti : Sow peas, broad beans, cauliflowers, French beans, carrots, 
 and turnips ; plant out brocoli plants, plant potatoes for second 
 crop; prepare ridges for celery and plant out the young plants. 
 Cucumbers and melons grown in a frame will be fit for cutting 
 this month. Clean strawberry beds from weeds, gather green 
 tomatas for preserving. Orchard: Fruit trees should receive their 
 summer pruning this month, and espaliers be tied in. Fruit stocks 
 may be budded towards the latter end of this month, and during the 
 following three months. Budding appears to answer better in New 
 Zealand than grafting. Cherries, raspberries, currants, and goose- 
 berries are ripe, and grapes are set in this month. 
 
 " FEBRUARY. Flower Garden : The roots of polyanthuses, 
 primroses, and cowslips may be divided and planted out in the 
 latter part of this month. Continue to clean the beds from weeds, 
 and save such seeds as are ripe. Kitchen Garden : Plant out 
 cabbages, cauliflowers, and celery; plant potatoes, and earth up 
 those planted the last month ; sow peas, turnip, cauliflower, cabbage, 
 carrot, parsnip, beet root, radish, and lettuce seed. Cucumbers 
 grown in the open air may be cut in this and the following two 
 months. Gather green tomatas for preserving, and ripe tomatas for 
 making sauce. Save such seeds as are ripe. Take np potato 
 onions. Orchard: Plums and early apples are ripe in this month. 
 The pruning and training of fruit trees may be continued this month. 
 
 " MARCH. Flower Garden : Collect seeds. Ixias, tulips, hya- 
 cinths, and other bulbs that have done flowering may be taken out 
 of the ground, but they thrive better if suffered to remain in the 
 ground all the year round. Kitchen Garden : Sow spinach and 
 radishes, lettnce, cabbage, and Cape brocoli. Thin out turnips ni.d 
 carrots, and mould up potatoes. Collect seeds. Begin to earth up 
 the first planted celery, and plant out some more, to come in later. 
 The bulbs of onions should be taken up as soon as the leaves are 
 withered and stored for winter use. Cut cucumbers, gather ripe 
 tomatas. Orchard : The operations of budding and pruning may 
 be continued during this month. Apples, pears, figs, peaches, and 
 nectarines may be gathered.
 
 132 GARDENING 
 
 " APRIL. Flower Garden : Plant cuttings of roses, geraniums, 
 pi i iks , pansies. and other flowers. Kitchen Garden : Lettuces, 
 cabbages, and Cape brocoli may be planted out. Asparagus seed 
 may be saved, and the plants which had been allowed to grow 
 during the summer cut down. Gather ripe tomatas, and take up 
 onions. Plant out strawberry plants in this and the following 
 month. Orchard: The same as last month. Stop the leading 
 shoots of vines. Grapes are ripe towards the end of this month. 
 
 " MAY. Flower Garden : The bulbs and tuberous-rooted flowers 
 which have flowered later in the year may be taken up. Dahlias 
 may also be taken up and stored for the winter in a dry place. 
 Kitchen Garden : Plant out cabbages and cauliflowers, earth up 
 celery, manure and make up asparagus beds, and plant out asparagus 
 plants to form new beds ; plant out strawberry plants. Orchard : 
 Gather grapes. 
 
 "JUNE. Flower Garden: Dig up flower borders. Kitchen 
 Garden : Plant potato onions, plant out sea-kale, transplant arti- 
 chokes and chardoons. Earth up celery, transplant lettuces. 
 Orchard : Dig up the earth round fruit trees. This and the fol- 
 lowing two months are the best for transplanting and pruning 
 fruit trees, and also for pruning and transplanting gooseberry and 
 currant trees. Transplant deciduous trees. 
 
 " JULY. Flower Garden : Prepare flower borders ; plant out 
 bulbs taken up in March. Prune rose trees, geraniums, &c., and 
 plant cuttings. Kitchen Garden: Earth up celery, sow peas, 
 lettuces, cabbages, carrots, broad beans, and onions. Plant out 
 rhubarb. Peas were gathered in this month and the last in the year 
 1847. Orchard : Transplant such trees as require removal ; plant 
 out stocks for grafting and budding into nursery beds ; the quince 
 and white thorn are found to answer very well for pear stocks. 
 Plant out vines, filberts, raspberries, gooseberry and currant trees, 
 and vine, gooseberry, and currant cuttings. As far as our present 
 experience extends, the gooseberry and black currant bear very well ; 
 the red and white currant also, in sheltered situations, make a good 
 deal of wood, and bear well. The winter pruning of fruit trees and 
 vines may be performed in this and the following month. Plant 
 out thorns for hedges in this month. 
 
 " AUGUST. Flower Garden : Dig flower borders, and towards 
 the end of the month sow all kinds of hardy annuals. Carefully 
 look for and destroy all slugs, which are likely to prove troublesome. 
 The gardens in New Zealand appear to be more free from insects 
 than those in England. Slugs and caterpillars abound, but there 
 are no insects on the fruit trees, except the American blight, which 
 seems to have been imported ; neither is the green fly found on the 
 rose trees, nor have any snails been found in New Zealand. 
 Kitchen Garden. Sow the common sorts of vegetables, fork over
 
 CALENDAR. 133 
 
 asparagus beds, and begin to make up melon and cucumber beds ; 
 cover sea-kale for blanching. Orchard : The operations of the 
 previous month may be continued during the greater part of this 
 month. Sow apple and pear pips, and plant fruit stones for stocks. 
 Towards the end of this month the apricot, peach, and nectarine 
 trees begin to blossom. 
 
 " SEPTEMBER. Flotcer Garden : Sow all kinds of flower seeds, 
 transplant roses, and different flowering shrubs and plants, and 
 plant out cuttings ; carefully keep down weeds. Sow balsam and 
 China aster seed in pots in frames. Plant out dahlia roots. 
 Kitchen Garden : Sow turnips, carrots, peas, onions, lettuce, broad 
 beans, spinach, cabbage, and celery seed, and plant early potatoes. 
 Commence cutting sea kale, and asparagus, which continues in 
 season to the end of November. Earth up early peas, plant out 
 lettuces, sow tomata, cucumber, and melon seeds in hot beds. In 
 this month the gooseberry and currant trees begin to blossom. 
 Orchard : Train and prune espaliers. Grafting may be performed 
 daring this month, but budding is more to be depended upon, as, 
 owing to the winds which prevail, the clay hardens, and the graft in 
 many instances perishes. The pear, cherry, filbert, and plum trees 
 blossom in this month. 
 
 "OCTOBER. Flotcer Garden: Carefully keep down weeds, and 
 sow tender annuals. Towards the end of the month plant out such 
 annuals as are large enough for removal. During this month the 
 garden daisy, primrose, polyanthus, peony, and cowslip, and also 
 towards the end of the month, such bulbs as have been left in the 
 ground, or were planted in July, flower. Kitchen Garden : Plant 
 potatoes, transplant cauliflowers, cabbages, and lettuces; sow in 
 frames cucumbers, melons, vegetable marrow and tomata seed, sow 
 gourds and pumpkins ; continue to sow snccessional crops of peas, 
 and stick those earthed up in the previous month. French beans 
 may be sown not earlier than the middle of this month. Orchard : 
 The peach, nectarine, and other wall fruit trees may be pruned and 
 trained in this month ; the fruit on these trees, and on the cherry, 
 pear, gooseberry, and currant trees will be fully formed. The apple 
 trees begin to blossom, and the vines to send forth vigorous shoots 
 and to show for fruit. 
 
 "NOVEMBER. Floicer Garden: Towards the middle of this 
 month plant out such tender annuals as have been raised in the 
 frame ; keep down the weeds, and carefully destroy the slugs and 
 caterpillars, which are found to be very troublesome. In this month 
 the roses begin to bloom, and continue in full beauty to the end of 
 December. The picotees, pinks, honeysuckles, and other flowers, 
 are in perfection in this and the succeeding month. Kitchen 
 Garden : Transplant cabbages and cauliflowers, sow French beans, 
 plant out tomatas. capsicums, melons, and encumbers in rich earth, 
 W
 
 134 METEOROLOGICAL 
 
 and in warm situations. Towards the end of the month strawberries 
 are ripe. Orchard : During this month the fruit on the apple 
 trees will be fully set, and the vines will be in full flower. The 
 vines will require attention in stopping the fruiting shoots, and in 
 carefully training the shoots so that they may not be broken by the 
 wind. 
 
 "DECEMBER. Flower Garden: The different flowers, both 
 annual and perennial, are in full perfection. Towards the end of 
 the month the weather begins to be rather dry. Kitchen Garden : 
 Prick out celery, clean strawberry beds from weeds, plant out cauli- 
 flower and cabbage plants. Gooseberries and currants are ripe in 
 this month. Frame cucumbers will be fit to cut. Orchard : 
 Cherries are ripe, and the vines are in full flower this month." 
 
 We may compare with this the following Meteoro- 
 logical Tables. The first is taken from the register 
 kept at "Wellington, by Dr. DiefFenbach, the Company's 
 naturalist, from February, 1841, to January, 1842. 
 These observations were made daily at 8 A.M. and 5 P.M. 
 Those on temperature were not made with the self- 
 registering thermometer, and therefore do not comprise 
 the greatest degree of heat or cold. Dr. Dieffenbach 
 also premises that, according to the testimony of the 
 oldest settlers, the year in which these observations 
 were made was remarkable for an unusual quantity of 
 wet. The second and third are Meteorological Regis- 
 ters for 1846 and 1847, kept at Judge Chapman's 
 residence at Karori.
 
 REGISTERS. 
 
 135 
 
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 REGISTERS. 
 
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 as In four months ; whereas last 
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 NOTE. The temperature is that during the day. The thormomotor is in th 
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 x 2
 
 138 VARIETIES OF SOIL. 
 
 The Soil varies much in different parts of the district 
 of Wellington. 
 
 On the banks of all the rivers which flow through 
 the hilly country, the soil bears the richest alluvial 
 character; and in some valleys, such as that of the 
 Hutt, the pure black or brown sandy loam lies in so 
 thick a stratum as to appear inexhaustible. The valleys 
 of the three principal streams which flow into Porirua 
 harbour also partake of this character; as well as many 
 others of less considerable extent : and soil of the same 
 description is more widely spread over a great portion 
 of the level expanse of country already described as 
 watered by so many streams, between the western base 
 of the dividing range and Cook's Strait. In these 
 situations, the luxuriant forest is an unfailing sign of 
 the soil on which it grows. 
 
 The geological structure of the hills, almost through- 
 out the district, is argillaceous schist, interrupted, espe- 
 cially on the western side of Port Nicholson, by bulky 
 and irregular dikes of red, black, and greenish Lydian 
 stone. Sometimes, as on the higher ranges of the 
 Tararua Mountains, the clay is more quartzose and 
 granular, and thus forms a good stone for building pur- 
 poses. Other trappean rocks are also found, about 
 twenty miles up the valley of the Hutt. 
 
 On the hills so formed, a coating of rich decayed 
 vegetable matter forms a thin surface so long as the 
 forest remains standing, and even long enough for a 
 crop or two afterwards; but the weather soon washes 
 this upper soil from the steepest places when clear of 
 wood, and leaves a cold clay, decomposed from the 
 rock, only fit for the growth of pasturage. Constant 
 evidence of this course of events may be seen in the 
 abandoned cultivations of the natives on the hill-sides. 
 
 Even on such table lands, or elevated valleys, as the 
 Karori, the rich soil formed from the long accumula- 
 tion of vegetable matter, when once cleared of the 
 forest, is not renovated by freshets like that of the
 
 INFLUENCE OF CLIMATE ON SOIL. 139 
 
 lo\ver valleys, and is therefore more liable to exhaus- 
 tion. But the great remedy for this natural event is 
 an improved system of agriculture, by which the appli- 
 cation of manures and a due rotation of crops shall 
 provide against any exhaustion of the productive qua- 
 lities of the soil before it can occur. 
 
 The climate has a very sensible influence on the 
 productiveness of the soil; for even the cold clayey 
 earths above alluded to, which are found at a very 
 trifling depth all over the hilly and undulating portions 
 of the district, become extremely productive after 
 having been well turned over and exposed for some 
 months to the action of the atmosphere. All along 
 the road between Wellington and the valley of the 
 Kenepuru, ground of this latter nature is cultivated 
 very beneficially. 
 
 In other portions of the district, the great influence 
 of the climate on the productiveness of inferior soils is 
 very apparent. In the comparatively sandy belt of 
 land which, varying in breadth from a few hundred. 
 yards to three or four miles, skirts the sea-shore be- 
 tween the Bluffs at Paripari and the north-western 
 extremity of the district, potatoes as well as other 
 vegetables are grown with great success by the natives. 
 In the immediate vicinity of "Waikanae and several of 
 the neighbouring native villages, the traveller is often 
 surprised to find that even the careless agriculture of 
 the natives can reap such excellent crops from what 
 appear to be mere sand-hills; and it seems difficult to 
 explain the fact otherwise than as the effect of the 
 genial climate, which is better, perhaps, than any other 
 in the world, calculated to encourage and promote the 
 vigorous and healthy growth of animal as well as vege- 
 table life. 
 
 In many level parts of the district, fens or marshes 
 have been formed, in consequence of thei'e being no 
 outlet for the surface water; but these almost invari- 
 ably lie at a sufficient elevation to be capable of drainage; 
 and after that operation, these tracts of land will
 
 140 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 certainly be most available for cultivation, on account 
 of the richness of their soil. Much of this kind of 
 country has been hastily called " swamp;" and has thus 
 been associated in the minds of persons in this country 
 with tracts of irreclaimable land, bearing a similar 
 designation in America and other countries. The 
 largest extent of so-called " swampy" country within 
 the district, is situated in the level tract on either bank 
 of the river Manawatu. 
 
 The natural productions of the district may be 
 divided into the three classes of Vegetable, Animal, and 
 Mineral: and under the two first of these classes, the 
 indigenous productions may be distinguished from those 
 which have been introduced at various periods by 
 visitors and Colonists. But the want of space will pre- 
 vent more than a notice of those productions only, of 
 either kind, which stand pre-eminent in their useful- 
 ness and value to the intending Colonist. 
 
 I. VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 
 Indigenous. 
 
 The indigenous timber of New Zealand grows to a 
 towering height, and in a perfection equalled by that 
 of few other countries. The extensive forests within 
 the district of Wellington offer an inexhaustible supply 
 for the wants of many generations, for ship-buildiug, 
 as well as for other purposes. 
 
 The most common trees of the forests, and those 
 most available for ordinary purposes, are the first three 
 on this list. 
 
 1. Kahikatea, (Dacrydium excelsum.} This tree flourishes most 
 in low, swampy, or alluvial soils. It grows to a great height, having 
 a trunk branchless for seventy or eighty feet, and then a head rising 
 to a point. Its leaves are sharp and prickly, much like those of the 
 yew, but rather longer and narrower ; and it bears a small red berry, 
 eaten by the natives. It is commonly called the white pine ; and its 
 wood is of much the same character in all the central and southern 
 part of New Zealand. In the northern part of the islands, however, 
 it degenerates into a soft, spongy, and useless wood.
 
 VEGETABLE: INDIGENOUS. 141 
 
 -'. M;ii. ur .Mittui, (Diicrydiiim tnatui, or taxifolium.) This tree 
 very much resembles the preceding one in all its qualities. The 
 leaves are smaller, and the wood of rather superior quality, being 
 also generally of a yellowish colour. 
 
 3. Bimu, (Dacrydium citpressimum.~) This beautiful tree comes 
 to its greatest perfection in shaded woods and in moist rich soil. It 
 often attains a considerable size, but its branches are more spread- 
 ing and begin at a less height from the ground than those of the 
 two former trees. Its foliage is remarkably graceful and elegant. 
 The leaves are only small prickles, running up a long stem, from 
 which, towards the top, branch out several other stems, whose united 
 weight causes the main stem to hang like the branches of the weep- 
 ing willow, or a cluster of ostrich feathers ; and the beauty is height- 
 ened by the liveliness of the colour with which it is decorated, in 
 comparison with the sombre hue of most of the other evergreens. 
 The wood inclines to a red colour, and is equally durable with the 
 two former, but rather more difficult to work, from its greater hard- 
 ness, and a disposition to brittleness. 
 
 The following trees, although not so common as the 
 three first, are still found in abundance throughout the 
 district. 
 
 4. Totara, (Podocarpus Mara.) This tree grows to a large size, 
 especially in the Hutt, Porirua, and Karon districts. Its foliage 
 resembles that of the yew, and forms a thick handsome crown at the 
 top of the tree. The wood is of a red colour, splits freely, is very 
 hard, but easy to work. It is renowned for its durability, especially 
 under exposure to the vicissitudes of the weather. It is therefore 
 much used by the natives for the lower part of their canoes, which 
 is always formed from a single trunk ; and also by the Colonists for 
 out-of door purposes, such as posts and rails in fencing, &c. The 
 knotted roots of the large trees furnish a highly ornamental wood 
 for veneering furniture or panneliug, which equals in beauty the 
 bird's eye maple. 
 
 "i. Main, (Podocarpus macronata.) This is also one of the 
 largest trees of the forest. It produces a close-grained, durable 
 wood, of a dark colour, which planes up smoothly, and receives a 
 high polish. It has a spiral leaf, long and narrow, of a pale bright 
 green. The wood is sometimes used for furniture, but its weight 
 and disposition to brittleness are rather unfavourable to this use 
 of it. 
 
 6. Tawa, (Laitnis taica.) This tree abounds all over the district, 
 and especially in the same situations as the Mara. The wood is 
 light, and splits very freely ; it is therefore much used for fencing, 
 and for roofing shingles. It is, however, of too small size for other 
 purposes, and is, moreover, not very durable. It bears a damson-
 
 142 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 like berry, which is the favourite food of the pigeons. The outside 
 pulp of the berry has a strong taste of turpentine, and covers a 
 double kernel like that of an acorn, on which the wild hogs feed 
 after the berries have dried on the ground. 
 
 7. Rewarewa, (Knightia excelsa.) This tree is found in dry 
 forests, and where the soil is loose and gravelly in its texture. It 
 is a tall, straight-growing tree, with long, pale, green leaves, rough 
 and jagged like a saw at the edges. Its flower, of a dark purple, 
 resembles in shape that of the honeysuckle, and the tree in conse- 
 quence is popularly so called. The wood is beautifully variegated, 
 being mottled or streaked with dark and light brown. It splits freely, 
 and is therefore useful for fencing ; but useless for shingles, from 
 its liability to warp in the sun. It is highly ornamental for the 
 purposes of furniture, but never grows to more than moderate 
 dimensions. 
 
 8. Miro, (Podocarpus ferruginea.} This tree grows to a con- 
 siderable size in the central and southern parts of New Zealand. 
 The leaf is like that of the fir tree ; the bark smooth, like that of an 
 ash. It produces a fine red berry. The wood is smooth, dark, 
 close-grained, and very durable. 
 
 9. Tawai, (Leiospermum racemosiim.) This tree has a rough, 
 dark-brown bark, and a small round leaf, in shape like that of an 
 elm. The wood is particularly well adapted for ship-building, and for 
 the staves of barrels, and is commonly called " black birch" by the 
 sailors and other Europeans acquainted with it. Its growth is gene- 
 rally considered indicative of an inferior soil. The bark is used to 
 great advantage in the process of tanning. 
 
 10. Rata, (Metrosideros robusta.} There are several varieties of 
 this tree ; one grows at first as a parasite, creeping in numerous 
 stems, like ropes, up the trunks of the other forest trees, gradually 
 enclosing them till they perish, and then uniting to form a noble 
 tree taller than that which it has destroyed, with an enormous 
 trunk, but hollow within. The leaf and the flower resemble those 
 of the myrtle, but the flower is of a deep crimson colour with golden 
 stamina. In Decemher and January, these giants of the forest give 
 the hill-sides a fairy-like appearance, from the profusion of this 
 beautiful blossom. The branches are gnarled like those of the oak ; 
 and the trunk also, from its formation, is a series of strange contor- 
 tions ; so that the wood, being also heavy, close-grained, and very 
 durable, is most valuable to the ship-builder for knees and timbers 
 of all shapes and sizes. 
 
 11. Hinau, (Elccocarpus kin an.") The leaves of this tree are 
 spiral, and of a bright-green colour. The bark is very rough, but 
 most valuable, from producing a deep black dye, which is used by the 
 natives to colour their flaxen mats. The bark is pounded and 
 thrown into water, and the article to be dyed is immersed in the 
 infusion. The natives, however, generally prepare the infusion in
 
 VEGETABLE: INDIGENOUS. 143 
 
 an iron vessel, or mix it with water or mad from a ferruginous 
 spring ; so that it will probably be found to require some preparation 
 of iron in order to produce the most advantageous results. The 
 trunk and main branches of the tree are generally studded with large 
 knotty excrescences. These furnish an exceedingly handsome fur- 
 niture-wood, almost resembling yellow marble when worked up and 
 highly polished. 
 
 I.'. Titoki, (name not known.) This tree is also mentioned 
 here, because it bears in great abundance berries from the inner 
 kernel of which the natives extract a very fine oil, samples of which 
 have been pronounced in England as peculiarly suited to the pur- 
 poses of the watch-maker. The kernel is black, and covered by a 
 red pnlpous fruit like the raspberry in appearance, as well as by an 
 outer husk, which splits open when the fruit is ripe and the nut fit 
 to gather. 
 
 15, Kahikatoa, or Manuka, (Leptospsrmum Scoparivm.) A tree 
 of stunted growth, flourishing in clayey barren soils, and producing 
 a hard red wood. It seldom exceeds eighteen inches in diameter, 
 and is seen in many parts of New Zealand as a very small shrub, 
 covering lasge tracts of clayey ground on which no other plant or 
 shrub will grow. It produces a hard red wood, of which the natives 
 make their paddles, and the Colonists handles for their axes. The 
 leaf and the white blossom resemble those of the tea-plant, and an 
 agreeable balsamic beverage is made by boiling the leaves in water, 
 so that it is commonly called the " tea-tree." The flower exhales a 
 very fragrant perfume, which spreads itself to a long distance. 
 
 1 i. Ake-ake, (Metrotiderot buxifolia.) This is a variety of the 
 Rata, No. 10. It is often called the Ltynuin vita of New Zealand, 
 and resembles that wood in hardness, weight, and colour. It seldom 
 exceeds six inches to a foot in diameter ; and is used by the natives 
 for their weapons of war. 
 
 I-'-. Tanekaha, (Phyllocladut trichonanoidfs.) This tree is not 
 very common in the central and southern parts of New Zealand ; 
 but deserves notice as affording a dull red or bright brown dye, 
 which is thus obtained by the natives from the bark : The bark is 
 pounded, and then placed in a vessel of cold water, into which hot 
 stones are placed until the water boils. After the bark has been 
 boiled for some hours, the decoction becomes of a red colour ; it is 
 then left to cool, strained, and ready for use. This tree is abundant 
 in the northern part of the North Island, where it grows straight 
 and tapering, occasionally attaining the height of sixty feet, bat 
 seldom exceeding the diameter of three feet It is there considered 
 a close-grained valuable wood, and sought after for the decks of 
 vessels, and the posts and floors of verandas, being little affected 
 by wet. 
 
 16. Pukatea. (JLcnmu pukatea.} This is a very common tree, 
 growing generally in low, marshy situation*, with huge mis-shapen
 
 144 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 stein, and roots far out of the ground. The bark is smooth and 
 light-coloured : the wood soft, of a greenish white colour, and so 
 elastic as to be much sought after for the floor-planks of boats, 
 because it will yield, without breaking or splitting, to a moderate 
 bump on a rock. This wood, when well seasoned, appenrs to have 
 some of the qualities of the English willow, which fit that wood for 
 the rollers used in spinning-machinery. 
 
 The above list comprises the trees most remarkable 
 for their useful qualities; but there are many others of 
 the same character, differing but little in the nature of 
 the wood, and the purposes for which they may be used. 
 
 The forests also abound in ornamental trees and 
 shrubs of various kinds. Everywhere are to be seen 
 Tree-ferns, (Cyathea meditllaris and dealbata,) some 
 of them with stems forty to sixty feet high, their 
 graceful umbrella-like crowns overhanging the thick 
 underwood; Laurels of various kinds, the leaves of 
 which, as well as those of several other shrubs, are 
 nourishing and agreeable to cattle; Fuchsia-trees, 
 (Fuchsia excorticata,) and the beautiful mimosa, called 
 Kohai, (Edwardsia microphylla,} covered with clusters 
 of yellow flowers. 
 
 The woods are almost impenetrably interwoven with 
 lianes, or supple-jacks, (Ripogonum parviflorum^) 
 called Kareau by the natives, which give great trouble 
 to the explorer. They are very strong and flexible, 
 and consequently useful for making hurdles, baskets, &c. 
 
 Several young specimens of New Zealand trees, in- 
 cluding some of those particularized above, may be seen 
 growing in the conservatory at Messrs. Knight and 
 Perry's Exotic Nursery, in the King's Road West, 
 Chelsea, near Cremorne Gardens. Nos. 2, 3, 4, 5, and 
 1 5, in the above list, are among those to be seen there. 
 Two plants of the collection, not mentioned in the 
 list, are curiosities in the vegetable world, as the leaves 
 grow downwards from the stem. They are called 
 Aralia crassifolia and Trifoliata. Some of these trees 
 have attained a height of nine or ten feet: but they 
 seem to have been drawn up unnaturally by the arti-
 
 VEGETABLE: INDIGENOUS. 145 
 
 ficial heat, and thus appear weakly and delicate in form. 
 They have severely felt, too, the want of the genial 
 humidity of their native land; for their colour is far 
 more sombre and lifeless than that which even ever- 
 green plants bear on the soil of New Zealand. 
 
 A very good collection of dried specimens, and 
 another of drawings, of New Zealand plants, may be 
 seen at New Zealand House, on application to the 
 Secretary. These have been examined by Sir William 
 Hooker, who has appended to many of them their cor- 
 rect botanical designations. The dried ferns, especially, 
 will well repay those who take interest in botany, for 
 the trouble of a visit. 
 
 The furniture woods may be seen to advantage in 
 the show-rooms of Mr. Levien, a cabinet-maker, at 
 No. 10, Davies-street, Berkeley-square, opposite Mi- 
 vart's Hotel. He is a Prussian mechanic, who made 
 himself acquainted with the qualities of the different 
 woods during a stay of two years at Wellington, and 
 who has, since his return to England, made a great 
 many articles of furniture, such as sideboards, tables, 
 &c., from the stock of wood which he brought with 
 him, or since purchased from among that sent home 
 from the Colony. He has executed orders for many 
 persons of distinction, including Her Majesty, and the 
 King of Prussia, from whom he has received one of 
 the gold medals, which are usually conferred in that 
 country for deserving works of art. 
 
 Of equal importance with the timber among the 
 indigenous vegetable productions of the district, is the 
 plant called 
 
 J'lmnniinn temix, or New Zealand flax. The plant consists of 
 from a dozen to forty or fifty leaves like those of our flag, and two 
 or three flower-stems, all diverging from the root beneath the 
 ground. There are ten or twelve varieties of the plant; some of 
 which are confined to particular localities, such as low marshes, 
 rich alluvial land, or comparatively barren hill-sides; while in 
 others, a difference of character is acquired by specimens of the 
 same variety, in consequence of the difference of their situation. In 
 O
 
 146 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 some situations the largest variety of the plant lias leaves from ten 
 to twelve feet in height, and three to five inches in breadth at the 
 lower end, finishing gradually in a point. The leaves are all folded 
 in two longitudinally, the inner surface being glossy, and the outer 
 dull. When the leaf has attained its full growth it opens out, but 
 never so much as to lie peifectly flat, and the upper end of the leaf 
 hangs outwards in a graceful curve. The flowers grow in bunches 
 on the flower-stems ; they are large and bell-shaped, with purple 
 petals, and are filled to the brim with delicious syrup. The seed is 
 contained in long black pods, and is itself of a glossy black colour, 
 and flat oval shape. 
 
 The following classification of the species and varieties of the 
 phormium tenax is extracted from the Appendix to " Annuls of the 
 Diocese of New Zealand," page 2-41 ; a work compiled from the 
 writings of the Bishop and of the principal Church missionaries : 
 
 " I. Flax scraped with the finger-nail onl 
 
 1. Paritanewha, found cliiefly at Maungatautari (north- 
 
 west of Lake Taupo.) 
 
 2. Ratawa, Hauraki, (Valley of the 
 
 Thames.) 
 
 3. Kohunga, Maungatautari. 
 
 4. Rerehape, 
 
 5. One, 
 " II. Flax scraped with the shell (Haro.) 
 
 1. Raumoa, found chiefly at Taranaki. 
 
 2. Ate, Hauraki. 
 
 8. Common swamp flax, " found in all parts." 
 " III. Coarser kinds, used only for rough garments and floor-mats. 
 
 1. Aonga, variegated flax. 
 
 2. Whararipi, 
 
 " I. All the varieties of flax of the first class must be planted. 
 They require rich, moist, and flat land, but not swampy, and should 
 be planted in rows six feet apart, with spaces of six feet between the 
 plants. The ground must be kept clear of weeds. The best season 
 for planting is April or May. The plants will be fit to cut in two 
 years, and will yield a crop every year afterwards. The flax 
 requires only to be rent with the hand and nails, without scraping, 
 and is prepared with the greatest ease." 
 
 " II. The more common species of flax requires to be scraped 
 with a shell, then steeped in water for four days, afterwards taken 
 out and beaten to clear it of the refuse, and then dried again and 
 scraped a second time." 
 
 " III. The third class is of no value for European manufacture." 
 
 Flax of the first class is also to be found in native plantations 
 on the north shore of Cook's Strait, especially in the neighbourhood 
 of the Mauawalu, Wauganui, and Patea Rivers.
 
 VEGETABLE: INDIGENOUS. 147 
 
 It is the leaves of the plant which contain the valuable fibre, 
 resembling that of the European flax. 
 
 Many processes, both mechanical and chemical, have been tried 
 by the Colonists, and by projectors in England, Belgium, and France, 
 for adequately preparing this fibre : bnt hitherto complete success 
 has not been attained in separating the fibre from some particles of 
 a gummy nature, which render it brittle and harsh of texture when 
 dried and packed, so that it is as vet considered inferior to the 
 European flax. As now prepared for the London market, small 
 quantities have obtained prices varying from 20/. to 28/. per ton ; 
 which hardly pays the present expense of preparation in the colony, 
 packing, and freight. 
 
 The finer varieties, from the fibre of which the natives were in 
 the habit of manufacturing garments of a beautiful silky texture, 
 were extensively and carefully cultivated by them, until the general 
 adoption of blankets and other articles of European clothing almost 
 put an end to the native manufacture. The carelessness with which 
 the early trade in this article was carried on has been the cause of 
 its depreciation in the European market ; but there is no doubt that 
 if a proper degree of attention were paid to the distinction between 
 the different varieties, to the soil, climate, and cultivation best 
 adapted for each, to the proper season of cutting the leaf, to the 
 best mode of preparing the fibre, as well as the careful drying, 
 packing, and screwing of it when prepared and assorted, this plant 
 would furnish New Zealand with one of the most valuable exports 
 ever possessed by any country. 
 
 The fibre, as yet imperfectly prepared from the phormium tenax, 
 is extensively used in New Zealand and in the adjoining Australian 
 Colonies, both by natives and Colonists, for every species of cordage, 
 from sewing-thread to whaling-lines ; and a small quantity is still 
 used for cordage in this country: bnt the finer varieties would 
 furnish a staple resembling silk and linen combined, from which 
 the most beautiful fabrics might be made. Even in its roughest 
 state, this plant is most useful to the Colonist or the traveller. It 
 abounds everywhere except in the thick forests ; and a leaf cut 
 green, either whole or split into the required breadth, serves every 
 purpose for which string might be necessary, from the repair of a 
 saddle-girth or stirrup-leather, or the bandaging of a wounded limb, 
 to the replacing of a worn-out brace, knapsack-strap, whip-lash, or 
 boot-lace. 
 
 Living specimens of the plant may be seen in Kew Gardens : 
 and drawings of it at the British Museum, and in a work called 
 Illustrations to 'Adventure in New Zealand, by E. Jerningham 
 Wnkefield, Esq.,' published by Smith, Elder, and Co., in 1845. 
 
 The flower-stem, when the seed on it is ripe, furnishes a slow- 
 match, and its ashes excellent tinder ; the root is said to furnish a 
 decoction 'possessing the qualities of sorsHparilla ; and the seed is so
 
 148 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 abundant, and contains so much oil, as to deserve an experiment, 
 which has not yet been made, as to the possibility of drawing a 
 valuable export from that source also, by means of crushing-mills. 
 
 There are fifty or sixty species of Fern-plants. The roots of one 
 of these (Pteris csculenta) are edible when roasted, somewhat 
 resembling coarse biscuit, and formerly were a more important 
 portion of the ordinary food of the natives than at present, when so 
 many other articles have been made available for them. Together 
 with the succulent root of the raupo (Typha ungusti folia), a kind 
 of bulrush which grows in the swamps, the feru-root affords an 
 excellent maintenance to the wild hogs. 
 
 The stem of one variety of the arborescent Fern, called mamaku 
 or pilau by the natives, and distinguishable by the black colour of 
 the lower side of its leaves, consists of an edible pulp somewhat 
 resembling that of the pumpkin, from which the early Colonists used 
 to make a very respectable imitation of apple-tart. 
 
 The Colonist should be warned against a shrub somewhat 
 resembling our elder (Coriaria sarmentosa), which bears a long 
 tapering bunch of black berries, smaller than currants. It is called 
 tutu by the natives, who make an insipid and harmless wine from 
 its fruit, although the seeds are highly poisonous. The leaves, 
 especially when young, are poisonous to horned cattle of the ox 
 kind ; but this seems only to happen at times, for they often eat 
 large quantities of the leaves without any ill effects. Imported 
 cattle are more liable to this danger on their first arrival from New 
 South Wales or England, than those which have become, as it were, 
 acclimatized. The symptoms are similar to those witnessed in 
 England in the case of a beast over-gorged with clover : it staggers 
 about, soon falls, and death ensues in a very short time, unless 
 averted by instantaneous and copious bleeding. Sheep, though 
 much more rarely, are also sometimes affected by eating this plant ;* 
 but this has not been known to occur in the case of horses, goats, or 
 pigs. 
 
 The indigenous grasses are not numerous in their varieties, or 
 remarkable, with the exception of the tolie-tohe, a reed whose leaves 
 are sometimes four feet in length, and its cane-coloured seed-stems 
 six feet in height. Cattle and horses eat this plant with avidity. 
 The other grasses are being quickly superseded by our European 
 sorts, which spread with inconceivable rapidity wherever flocks and 
 herds are introduced. 
 
 In some parts of the district, however, and especially in the 
 plain of the Wairarapa, an indigenous anise -plant abounds among 
 the natural pasture, adding greatly to the quality and flavour of the 
 flesh of cattle which have fed on it. 
 
 The only indigenous fruit worthy of mention is a parasitical or 
 epiphyte plant (Freijcinetia Banksii) called kickie by the natives, 
 
 * See p. 124.
 
 VEGETABLK: INTRODUCED. 149 
 
 winch grow* on tin- branches of the largest forest trees in swampy 
 neighbourhoods. It lias a bunch of leaves, growing from the root 
 like those of the flax -plant, but seldom exceeding two feet in length. 
 The leaves diminish in size and in roughness towards the centre of 
 the plant, and in the inner portion are about the size of artichoke 
 leaves, consisting of a semi-transparent juicy white pulp, which 
 mi-Its in the mouth with a cool, sweet, and aromatic flavour. This 
 plant bears its seed on the outside of a fruit which grows upright 
 from the centre of the plant, in shape and size like a cucumber. 
 After peeling off the seeds, the pulp which lies between them and 
 the stem in the centre of the fruit is edible, and of the same flavour 
 and substance as the inner leaves. The natives say that this plant 
 only comes to perfection once in three years. It is certainly the 
 fact that iu some years it is very abundant, and in others scarcely 
 a plant can be found sufficiently mature to be eaten. 
 
 Introduced. 
 
 Between the first visits of Captain Cook to New 
 Zealand' and the present time, but more especially 
 during the colonization of the islands, which commenced 
 in 1840, almost every vegetable production known in 
 England has been introduced into the Colony. 
 
 Potatoes are believed to have been introduced by Captain Cook 
 seventy years ago ; and at the present time, improved by frequent 
 importations of new roots of various kinds from Van Diemen's 
 Land and from England, this vegetable exists in great perfection, 
 and forms the principal article of the food of the natives. Even 
 with the imperfect cultivation of the natives, two crops are always 
 obtained annually from the same ground. 
 
 It is supposed that the natives, when according to their tradi- 
 tions they migrated to New Zealand from some other part of 
 Polynesia, as yet undetermined, brought with them the Kumera, a 
 small sweet potato, growing like the convolvulus, of which they 
 cultivate several varieties, and the Taro (ctiladinm esculent urn ), i\ 
 small hut delicious kind of yam. The latter is rarely cultivated 
 near Wellington, but there are several plantations of it near some of 
 the rivers on the western side of the district. 
 
 Among the vegetable productions which may be 
 considered to have been introduced into the country 
 since the first visits of Cook, but previous to the 
 regular colonization of the islands, are the following: 
 
 Maize. Cultivated by the natives with much success, except in 
 the immediate neighbourhood of Wellington, where there is scarcely 
 o2
 
 150 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 a sufficient continuance of still Lot weather to ripen the corn. 
 Large supplies, however, are brought from Hawke's Bay and other 
 parts of the east coast ; and before the general introduction of oats, 
 maize constituted the principal food of horses at Wellington. Good 
 sorts from Canada and the United States would thrive well in all 
 the warmer parts of the district. 
 
 Melons. A very good-flavoured, but moderate-sized water- 
 melon is much grown by the natives, especially on that part of the 
 western coast which lies between Porirua and the Manawatu. They 
 come to perfection in the month of March. Many other sorts have 
 since been introduced successfully by the Colonists. 
 
 Pumpkins, gourds, and calabashes of two or three different sorts 
 were also grown by the natives from an early date, but have been 
 since much improved upon by the Colonists. 
 
 There are also several grasses, as well as wild carrots, turnips, 
 and cabbages, whose origin, from their similarity to ours, may be 
 attributed to the visits of some European shipping: and a sow- 
 thistle grows very luxuriantly wherever the forest has been recently 
 felled, affording nourishing fodder for pigs, horses, and cattle. 
 
 As has been described above, wild oats, yellow trefoil, and 
 timothy -grass abound in some situations, and have probably sprung 
 from seed left by European visitors. 
 
 It is difficult to make an accurate list of the vege- 
 table productions which have been introduced into the 
 district; as, besides all the more ordinary articles of 
 British cultivation, the Colonists have made experiments 
 on a small scale in growing many of the productions 
 of other countries. 
 
 Every sort of Grain grown in England has been introduced in 
 its numerous varieties. Besides the usual varieties of wheat, barley, 
 oats, and rye, even Egyptian wheat from a mummy has been grown 
 in the district, and the black-bearded wheat with solid straw which 
 is so much grown in the south of Spain. 
 
 Wheat grows to great perfection in the rich alluvial valleys 
 already described, the ordinary sorts bearing in the valley of the 
 Hutt an average of from 40 to 50 bushels to the acre, and having a 
 straw nearly six feet in length. The young plants, if fed off by 
 sheep at the proper time, tiller out in a wonderful manner ; and as 
 many as forty-four ears have been counted, which had sprung from 
 a single grain. In the neighbourhood of Waikanae and Otaki, there 
 is also a large extent of very fine wheat country, and the wheat- 
 fields of the natives in those situations are exceedingly productive. 
 
 Oats are grown as much for hay as for the seed ; and when cut 
 for this purpose previous to flowering, shoot out again from the 
 root ; so that on a field in the valley of the Hutt two crops of oaten
 
 VEGETABLE : INTRODUCED. 
 
 151 
 
 IHUJ have been cut during the same year, the first crop alone 
 amounting to four ami a half tons per acre. 
 
 Barley and oats grow most advantageously on the less rich soil 
 of the hills. Both are considered to succeed well, and the former 
 to he well adapted for making malt. 
 
 The introduction of maize has already been alluded to. 
 
 Almost all the grasses common to English pastures have been 
 cultivated in the district. Mr. William Swainson, F.R.S., lias a 
 farm, called Hawkshead, in the valley of the Hutt, where he has care- 
 fully cultivated many sorts of English grasses. In a letter to the 
 Wellington Spectator* of the 30th January, 1817, he thus writes : 
 
 " The species of which the Hawkshead pastures at this place 
 are composed, are as follows : they amount to twenty-fh 
 
 " Fe.iluca pratensis 
 Dactijlns glomerata 
 Poa aiifjustit'nliti 
 
 nemoralis 
 
 an innt 
 
 carinata Sw. 
 
 iierrata 
 
 far. alba Sw. 
 
 Bromus arvensis 
 
 macrostachys 
 
 multijtoriis 
 
 mollis 
 
 Aijrostis stolinifera 
 ffolcns lanattts 
 Sriza media 
 Agrostis vulgaris 
 Holcus ai-enacius 
 Alopccunts pratensis 
 Antlwxanthum odoratiim 
 Fcsluca arundinacia 
 
 elatior 
 
 Lolium pcrenue 
 
 rar. italicnm 
 
 ,, in dig i' man 
 
 Poa trivialis 
 
 Meadow fescue 
 
 Cock's foot 
 
 Narrow-leaved meadow grass 
 
 Wood do. 
 
 Annual do. 
 
 Sharp edged do. 
 
 Nerve leaved do. t 
 
 Broad leaved do. 
 
 Field broom grass 
 
 Large seeded do. 
 
 Many flowered do. 
 
 Soft do. 
 
 Fiorin grass 
 
 Soft meadow grass 
 
 Quaking grass 
 
 Common bent 
 
 Tall oat-like grass 
 
 Meadow foxtail 
 
 Sweet vernal grass 
 
 Reed fescue 
 
 Tall do. 
 
 Perennial rye grass 
 
 Broad leaved Italian do. 
 
 Do. native 
 Rough stalked meadow grass 
 
 " Two or three more species are alone wanting to assimilate this 
 mixture to those found in some of the most productive pastures in 
 England. But however excellent this assortment is for hay aud 
 grazing lands, it is not adapted for lawns, upon which only the fine 
 sheep grasses (few of which have yet reached this country,) should 
 
 * A newspaper, published twice a week at Wellington.
 
 152 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 be sown. Neither is this mixture adapted for swamps, which 
 require a totally different set of grasses. The list is deficient in two 
 valuable grasses, viz., Phleum pratense (Timothy grass) and 
 Cynosorus cristatus (Dog's-tooth grass). The devastations of a 
 particular sort of caterpillar (belonging to the Nocloridcs, Sw. or 
 night moths) render it almost impossible to procure seeds (in any 
 quantity) of the first of these ; while the latter, although eaten by 
 cattle, is more a sheep grass, and not well adapted for hay." 
 
 For many years, every one who takes out good grass seeds of 
 any of these kinds, will be doing the Colony a great benefit. 
 
 The same remark applies to clovers, sainfoins, trefoils, vetches, 
 tares, and lucerne. A quantity of seed of the latter plant has been 
 imported from Chili, where it is called alfalfa. Four or five crops 
 of this excellent fodder may be cut during the year, as it thrives 
 admirably in so moist a climate. 
 
 Beans and peas have been introduced on a small scale. The 
 former have been grown in the rich soil of the Hutt to the height of 
 seven feet, and loaded with well-filled pods. 
 
 Buck-wheat is not known to have been grown as yet in New 
 Zealand, but would doubtless succeed well. 
 
 Linseed,'* mustard seed, and rope seed have only been tried on a 
 small scale ; but would all probably succeed well. 
 
 Turnips, swedes, carrots, and mangold-wtirzel attain the utmost 
 perfection in all parts of the district where they have been tried in 
 their numerous varieties. 
 
 Hops thrive to a remarkable degree; bearing the first year 
 instead of the third, as in England. They have, however, only been 
 tried on a small scale as yet. 
 
 The rich soil of the alluvial valleys, and of the fens when 
 drained, would be especially adapted to the growth of coriander, 
 carraway, and cress, so extensively cultivated in the fertile hundreds 
 of Essex ; but it is not known that they have even been introduced 
 into New Zealand. 
 
 Many of the English timber and fruit-trees have 
 been introduced, with invariable success; but some 
 years must elapse before their full growth can be 
 attained. 
 
 Among the former are the oak, the ash, the horse-chesnut, and 
 the walnut. Also a few Spanish chesnut trees, and some mimosas 
 from New South Wales. 
 
 for fruits, flowers, and garden vegetables, the reader must turn 
 back to the Gardener's Calendar at page 131. It does not, however, 
 mention the Cape gooseberry, a very excellent fruit, which flourishes 
 almost like a weed wherever it is introduced. The fruit is very 
 good, either raw, cooked, or in preserves.
 
 ANIMAL: INDIGENOUS. 153 
 
 b)><tnish and Portuguese onions are grown in perfection; and 
 nui/berry, oraiujc, and lemon trees Lave been introduced. 
 
 Almost all plants grow with a luxuriance unrivalled 
 in the best English gardens; many thrive in the open 
 air which would not do so in England; and the 
 absence of any marked winter tends to induce some 
 plants which are annuals in this country to become 
 biennials or even perennials. The flower-garden is 
 especially delightful; because many plants, such as 
 Gladiolas, and others from New South Wales and the 
 Cape of Good Hope, which only appear in the hot- 
 house or conservatory in this country, are grown in 
 the open air at Wellington; and because by a very 
 small degree of attention the garden may be so managed 
 as to show some plants in flower all the year round. 
 Geraniums grow into shrubs as they do in Portugal; 
 and a hedge of mixed sorts is almost sure to furnish 
 blossom and perfume during the greater part of the year. 
 
 Tobacco has been grown on a small scale; and 
 inconsiderable plantations of it may be seen near the 
 villages of the natives all over the North Island, grown 
 from seed given them at some former period by 
 Europeans. They never attempt, however, to prepare 
 it for use, nor has any Colonist yet grown enough to 
 try the experiment. 
 
 II. ANIMAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 Indigenous. 
 
 No terrestrial beasts, or reptiles, except Bats and Lizards, are 
 indigenous to New Zealand. The former are very small, and 
 apparently of only one species : there are several kinds of the latter, 
 one reaching to the length of eighteen inches ; but all are perfectly 
 harmless, and often made pets of by the native children. 
 
 There are no Snakm. Fmi/s, or Toads of any kind. 
 
 The Mammalia inhabiting the neighbouring seas appear to be 
 common to other parts of the Pacific Ocean. Of Whales, there are 
 the Sperm (Physcter Macroccphahis}, the Humpback (Baliinn 
 yibbosa'), the Fin-back (Bal<ena physalns'), the Pike-hcudcd (Balaam 
 Boops~), the Large-lipped (Balanopterus musculus), and the Black 
 or Right whale (Bahcna Antijwduni').
 
 154 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 A valuable amount of oil and whalebone, as will be 
 seen from the statistical tables at the end of this 
 chapter, is obtained from the carcases of these animals; 
 and their capture and destruction afford to the young 
 Colonists one of the most exciting and adventurous 
 sports known in the world. The following extracts 
 from a work already alluded to* will convey some idea 
 of the mode in which this pursuit is carried on, by 
 means of the establishments, on different points of the 
 coast, which have been above mentioned: 
 
 "It is very remarkable that there exists among the whalers a 
 certain code of laws, handed down by tradition, and almost univer- 
 sally adhered to, relating to adverse claims to a whale. Each 
 whaling-bay has its own law or custom; but they are generally very 
 similar. It is recognised, for instance, that he who has once made 
 fast has a right to the whale, even should he be obliged to cut his 
 line, so long as his harpoon remains in her ; and each harpooner 
 knows his own weapon by some private mark. The boat making 
 fast to the calf has a right to the cow, because she will never desert 
 her young. A boat demanding assistance from the boat of a rival 
 party shares equally with its assistant on receiving the required 
 help. These and many other regulations are never written down, 
 but are so well known that a dispute rarely arises, and if so, is 
 settled according to precedent by the oldest ' headsman.' " 
 ******* 
 
 " The season for which the men engage themselves begins with 
 the month of May, and lasts till the beginning of October, thus 
 extending over five months, which include the winter. It is during 
 this season that the female or cow whales resort to the coasts of New 
 Zealand with their young calves." 
 
 ******* 
 
 " The men are enrolled under three denominations: headsman, 
 boat-stcerer, and common man. The headsman is, as his name 
 implies, the commander of a boat; and his place is at the helm 
 except during the moment of killing the whale, which task falls to 
 his lot. The boat-steerer pulls the oar nearest the bow of the boat, 
 fastens to the whale with the harpoon, and takes his name from 
 having to steer the boat under the headsman's directions, while the 
 latter kills the whale. The common men have nothing to do but to 
 ply their oars according to orders; except one, called the tub 
 
 * WakefieWs Adventure in Nciv Zealand. These extracts are 
 taken from chapter xi. of the first volume, which chapter contains 
 an elaborate description of the whale-fisheries in New Zealand.
 
 THE WHALE-FISHERIES. 155 
 
 oarsman, who sits next to the tub containing the whale-line, and has 
 to see that no entanglement takes place. The wages are shares of 
 the proti ts of the fishery, apportioned to the men according to their 
 rank ; the headsman getting more shares than the boat-steerer, and 
 the boat-steerer than the common man. The leader of the ' party' 
 commands one of the boats, is called the ' chief headsman,' and is 
 said to 'head' the party, as each headsman is said to 'head' his 
 own boat. The boat-steerer or harpooner is likewise said to 
 ' steer 1 the boat to which he belongs, or, more frequently, its 
 headsman. Thus, on meeting two whalers, and asking them what is 
 their situation, one might answer, ' I heads the Kangaroo,' while 
 
 the other would say, 'and I steers Big George.'" 
 
 ******* 
 
 " The whale-boat is a long clinker-built boat, sharp at both ends, 
 and higher out of water at the head and stern than amidships, about 
 twenty to thirty feet long, and varying in breadth according to the 
 make. At the stern, a planking even with the gunwales reaches 
 five or six feet forwaid, and is perforated perpendicularly by the 
 loggerhead^ a cylindrical piece of wood about six inches in diameter, 
 which is used for checking the whale-line by taking a turn or two 
 round it. On this, too, it is customary to cut a notch for every 
 whale killed by the boat. The old-fashioned boats were generally 
 mode to pull five oars, the rowers of which were called respectively, 
 beginning from the bow, the boat-steerer, bow-oarsman, midship- 
 oarsman, tub-oarsman, and after-oarsman. Boats are now built, 
 however, for the shore-parties, to pull six, seven, and even eight 
 oars. I believe an uneven number is the best, as in that cose there 
 remains an equal force on each side of the boat when the boat- 
 steerer, who is also harpooner, stands up to do his work. The boat 
 is steered by means of a long and ponderous oar, called the steer- 
 oar, which leans on a piece of wood fixed to the stern-post, and is 
 confined to its place by a strap reaching from the top of the stern- 
 post, to the end of the support. The oar, however, moves freely in 
 this loop, and is generally covered with leather for eighteen inches 
 of its length to protect it from wear and tear. Close to the handle 
 is a transverse iron peg, which is held with the right hand, and 
 serves to turn the oar. The headsman stands up to steer in the 
 stern-sheets, and exhibits great skill in the management of the 
 steer-oar, which is twenty-seven feet long in large boats. In a 
 rough sea, an inexperienced person would not fail to be thrown 
 overboard by it, but a whaler manages it with great ease and grace. 
 The oars pull between thole-pins, which always have a small thole- 
 mat and spare pin attached, and arc also protected by leather. On 
 the opposite side of the boat to the tholes, below the level of the 
 thwarts, a piece of wood with a small niche is strongly fixed to the 
 side of the boat. This is for ' peaking the oars,' or placing the 
 handles into, without taking the oar out of the thole, so that the
 
 156 THE WHALE-FISHERIES. 
 
 blade of. the oar remains out of reach of the water, whether sailing 
 or running when fast to a whale. A boat in the act of peaking her 
 oars to stop, is said to ' heave up.' The mast and large Ing-sail are 
 stowed, while rowing, under the after-thwart, with the other end 
 projecting on the starboard hand of the helmsman, who can thus 
 stow or unstow it himself. A whiff, or light flag-staff with fancy 
 colours attached, is stowed with the mast and sail. The mast is 
 shipped in the bow or second thwart, and the halyards are made 
 fast to the midship-thwart. These boats are very fast under sail, 
 and will bear a great press of canvas. In the bow of the boat a 
 planking, similar to that in the stern, reaches some three or four 
 feet aft, and has at its after end a notch large enough to admit a 
 man's leg. This is to steady the harpooner while striking the 
 whale. One of the forward thole-pins is called the crutch, from 
 having branches on it which support the harpoons ready for use. 
 The harpoon is an iron weapon, shaped like the top of a fleur-de-lis, 
 and barbed so as not to draw out. It is placed on an ashen handle, 
 five feet long, and its point is covered by a small wooden case. 
 The line is already fast to them, and communicates with two tubs 
 in the middle of the boat, in which 200 fathoms of whale-line are 
 neatly coiled. Spare harpoons, and lances with oval steel-pointed 
 heads, all covered at the points, are ranged under the thwarts ; a 
 light kedge is in the head-sheets, a water-keg and a bottle of grog 
 are placed in the stern-sheets, with the pea-coats of the crew, und a 
 box of biscuit if they expect to remain out late. Sometimes a 
 ' spade ' is added to the armoury of the boat ; this is a sharp iron 
 weapon, like a small baker's shovel, on a long handle. It is used 
 by some of the boldest whalers to cut about the whale's tail and 
 render her less dangerous after she has been struck." 
 
 " The boats are fancifully painted by their headsmen with 
 mouldings of different colours, and a ' nose ' different from the body. 
 In the nose is generally painted some fanciful design, as a star, a 
 crescent, a ball, or an eye. The name, too, frequently figures along 
 the outside of the stern-sheets." 
 
 " The words of command are, as they need be, short and clear : 
 one side is called the two-side, where the two oars are in the five- 
 oared boat, and the other the three-side; but in giving directions, 
 the headsman only says, ' pull two, back three,' or vice versa. The 
 other terms of head all, starn all, peak, heave up, &c., require no 
 explanation. These boats are remarkably lively in a sea-wny, will 
 run very long before a gale of wind with safety, and will land safely 
 through a very high- surf. They often run on when they are obliged 
 to reef the sail by fastening the weather yard-erm to the gunwale ; 
 and are believed capable of standing any weather, if hove-to with 
 the steer-oar peaked, under the lee of a raft formed of the oars, 
 mast, and sail." *****
 
 A WHALE-HUNT. 157 
 
 " At length, one morning early in May, a whale is signalled from 
 a hill near the bay, where a look-oat is constantly kept." 
 
 " Three or four boats are quickly launched, and leave the wars at 
 a racing-pace; the boats of the rival stations are seen gathering 
 towards the same point; and the occasional spont of the whale, 
 looking like a small column of smoke on the horizon, indicates the 
 direction to be taken. A great deal of stratagem and generalship is 
 now shown by the diffeient headsmen in their manoeuvres to be 
 first alongside.' The whale may probably go for two or three 
 miles iii one direction, and then, after the various speed of the boats 
 has placed them in a long file, tailing one after the other, suddenly 
 reverse the position by appearing close to the last boat. The six 
 and seven oared boats have greatly the advantage while the chase 
 continues in a straight line ; but the short, old-fashioned five has 
 the best of it, if the fish makes many tarns and doubles. It is very 
 common for some of the boats to dog the motions of that of a rival 
 party commanded by a headsman of known experience ; and thus 
 two boats may sometimes be seen starting suddenly in a direction 
 totally opposed to that taken by the others, and a race shortly begins 
 between tkese two, the rest having no chance. The ' old file ' in 
 one of these two has guessed from some circumstance in the tide, 
 wind, or weather, or from some symptom noticed in the last spont, 
 that the fish would alter its coarse a point or two ; and another 
 headsman, who has been attentively watching his movements, at 
 last declares that ' George is off,' and, with a fresh word of en- 
 couragement to his crew, follows swiftly in his wake." 
 
 " The chase now becomes animating : this last manoeuvre has cot 
 off a considerable angle described by the whale ; her course and 
 that of the boats almost cross each other; and the crisis seems 
 approaching. The headsman urges his rowers to exertion by en- 
 couraging descriptions of the animal's appearance. ' There she 
 'breaches!'* shoots he; ' and there goes the calf! Give way, my 
 ' lads ; sharp and strong's the word ! there she spouts again ! give 
 ' way in the lull ! make her spin through it ! George a'n't two 
 ' boats' lengths a-head of us. Hurrah ! Now she feels it, pull 
 ' while the squall lasts ! Pull ! go along, my boys !' All this time 
 he is helping the after- oarsman by propelling his oar with the left 
 hand while he steers with the right. This is technically called 
 ' backing -up.' Each oar bends in a carve ; the foam flies from her 
 bows as a tide -ripple is passed; and both boats gain perceptibly on 
 the whale. ' And there goes flakes !' continues the headsman, as 
 the huge animal makes a bound half oat of water, and shows its 
 broad tail as it plunges again head first into the sea. ' Send us 
 ' alongside, my lads now give way ! hurrah, my bonnies hearty 
 and strong ! hurrah ! I'll wager a pint (there goes the calf 
 
 " She leaps out of the water." 
 F
 
 158 THE WHALE-FISHERIES. 
 
 ' again !) I'll wager she tries out eight tun if she makes a gallon 
 ' hurrah ! hurrah ! hurrah then ! three or four strokes more and 
 ' she'll come up under our nose. Stand up, Bill !' The boat-steerer 
 peaks his oar, places one leg in the round notch in the front of the 
 boat, and poises the harpoon, with line attached, over his head." 
 
 " A new hand, pulling one of the oars, begins to look frightened, 
 and flags at his work, looking occasionally over his shoulder; n 
 volley of oaths from the headsman accompanies a threat to ' break 
 ' every bone in his skin if lie funks now ;' and, beginning to fear the 
 man more than the fish, he hardens his heart and pulls steadily on." 
 
 " A momentary pause is occasioned by the disappearance of the 
 whale, which at last rises close to the rival boat. Their boat-steerer, 
 a young hand lately promoted, misses the whale with his harpoon, 
 and is instantly knocked down by a water-keg flung full in his face 
 by his enraged headsman, who spares no ' bad French' in explaining 
 his motives. Our original friend then manoeuvres his boat steadily 
 to the place where the whale will probably appear next. ' Pull 
 ' two, back three !' shouts he, following a sudden turn in the whale's 
 wake; and, as she rises a few yards in front of the boat, he cries in 
 rapid succession, 'Look out! all clear? give it her!" and the 
 harpoon flies true and straight into the black mass. This is called 
 making fast. ' Peak your oars,' says the headsman ; the line 
 wliistles over the bow ; a turn is taken round the loggerhead to 
 check the rapidity with which the line runs out, and the boat flies 
 positively through the water, forming ridges of foam high above her 
 sides. The men sit still, with folded arms, by their peaked oars, the 
 boat-steerer with a small hatchet in his hand to cut the line should 
 any entanglement occur ; and the after-oarsman occasionally pours 
 water on the loggerhead, which smokes furiously. Now is shown 
 the skill of the headsman in steering the boat at this tremendous 
 speed, and in watching every motion of the frightened whale. Now 
 he gives directions to ' haul in,' when the line slackens ; now says, 
 ' Veer away again,' as the fish takes a new start; and ever and anon 
 terrifies the new hand, who can't tell what's going to happen, into a 
 sort of resignation. The others seem to think the ' running ' rather 
 a relief from work than anything else ; they positively look as if 
 they would smoke their pipes, were it not against all rule." 
 
 " The whale rapidly takes the line, and the 200 fathoms in the 
 boat are nearly exhausted by its sudden determination to try the 
 depth of water, technically called ' sounding ;' but another boat of 
 the same party, which had ' hove up,' or peaked her oars, when the 
 chase was resigned to the two, comes up in answer to a whiff 
 hoisted by our boat, and fixes a new harpoon in the whale as she 
 rises to take breath. She soon becomes exhausted with her eiforts, 
 runs less rapidly, and rises more frequently to the surface ; and the 
 headsman at last foresees the lucky moment." 
 
 " ' Come aft !' he cries ; and he and the boat-steerer change places.
 
 A WHALE-HUNT. 159 
 
 The boat ceases her progress as the whale stops to rest. ' Down 
 'ours, give way!' are the orders given in sharp, clear tones; and 
 the crew, at least the old hands, know that he is nerved for his 
 work by the decision apparent in his voice, and the way in which he 
 balances the sharp, bright, oval-pointed lance." 
 
 " The whale seems to sleep on the surface ; but she is slowly 
 preparing for a move as the boat comes up." 
 
 " He follows her every movement. ' A steady pull ! Eow dry, 
 ' boys ! lay on ! Pull two, back three ! lay on ! head of all ! lay 
 ' me alongside !' and, as the whale slowly rolls one fin out of water, 
 the lance flies a good foot into the spot below where the ' life' is 
 said to be. The quick obedience to his instant order of ' Starn all, 
 ' lay off!' saves the boat from annihilation, as the whale swings 
 round its huge tail out of water, and brings it down with a tre- 
 mendous report. She then ' breaches,' or leaps, and plunges in 
 every direction ; the headsman continues to direct his crew and 
 boat-steerer, while he poises a new lance, and keeps just out of the 
 vortex formed by her evolutions ; the assistant boat and a third one 
 have come up, and, being all of one party, watch outside the splash- 
 ing for the best chance. One goes in, and having fixed a lance, 
 receives a blow which smashes the boat and two men's legs ; the 
 third boat picks up the men ; our first man at last gets steered into 
 the vortex, gives a well-aimed lance in the life, and retreats from 
 the foam, which receives a roseate hue. The monster leaps out of 
 the sea, flourishing her tail and fins, and strikes the water with a 
 noise as loud as cannon. She wriggles, and plunges, and twists, 
 more furiously than ever, and splashes blood over the boat's crew, 
 who still restrain their excitement and remain collected in aJl that 
 they do. She is now in her 'flurry;' she is said to ' spout thick 
 blood ;' and is a sure prize. The boat, by great good management, 
 escapes all accident ; and the headsman chuckles as he cuts a notch 
 on the loggerhead, and gives the crew a ' tot all round,' promising 
 the novice that he will have to treat the party to a gallon to-night, 
 in order to pny his footing on killing his first fish." 
 
 ****** **** 
 
 " In his dealings with the European Settlements, the whaler 
 very much resembles a sailor off a cruise. After the men have been 
 paid the balance due to them at the end of the season, they go to 
 Wellington or Nelson to spend it. The trade of supplying them 
 and buying their oil has naturally fallen out of the hands of the 
 Sydney merchants, into those of persons at Wellington, who pay 
 them better, and send the oil direct to England. During six weeks 
 or two months, Wellington becomes n Portsmouth in miniature. 
 Every public-house has its fiddle and hornpipe going; a little 
 theatre fills once a week ; and the weak constabulary force suffers 
 from various practical jokes. Boat-races, on which heavy bets 
 sometimes depend, come off, and an occasional fight, arising from
 
 160 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 the profound contempt which the whaler expresses for the ' lubber 
 of a jimmy-gratit,' as he calls the emigrant, completes the pro- 
 gramme of the amusements during the period. Should the whaling- 
 trade increase and prosper, the quiet people will soon be forced to 
 reside in villas out of town, and resign Wellington to its business 
 as a sea-port. When the money is spent, most of the men seek for 
 employment in the settlements." 
 
 There are several kinds of Seals, which used to 
 abound in Cook's Strait and on the coasts of the 
 Middle Island ; but they have been nearly exterminated 
 by the sealers from New South Wales since the year 
 1827. 
 
 Fish of all sorts and sizes abound on every part of 
 the sea- coast. The only sorts similar to ours are the 
 Conger-eel, Sole, Plaice, and Flounder. The principal 
 other sorts are as follows: 
 
 The Shark is rarely seen near the coast, though small Dog-fish, 
 from one to three feet in length, are very common, and considered 
 excellent food by the natives. Occasionally large sharks are seen 
 in Cook's Strait, especially near the floating body of a dead whale. 
 
 The Hapuka is an excellent fish of the cod kind, but more 
 gelatinous and of richer flavour. From the head and shoulders a 
 strong soup is often made. This fish weighs from 20 to 112 pounds, 
 and is caught very readily in fine weather with lines in from eight 
 to thirteen fathoms' water, near the rocks off the entrance of Port 
 Nicholson, or all along the coast as far as Kapiti. 
 
 The Moki (latris ciliarus) is a very fine-flavoured fish, some- 
 what resembling the dorey; it weighs from two to five or six 
 pounds. 
 
 The Kawai (Centropristcs trulta, or mulloides) is a fish 
 generally about fifteen inches in length, resembling the mullet in 
 shape, but rather insipid on table. These fish congregate in shoals, 
 which travel rapidly along the surface of the water, splashing up at 
 times ; and they then readily take any glittering bait drawn rapidly 
 through the water from a boat in motion. The natives fish for them 
 with a hook lined with pieces of the parti-coloured shell of the 
 haliotus or sea-ear. These shoals ascend the estuaries of fresh- 
 water rivers with the tide, but return again with the ebb. 
 
 " The Barracoota, or Manga of the natives, is a fish also found in 
 shoals on all parts of the coast. It is about two or three feet in 
 length, free from scales, with a long, sharp snout, and of ravenous 
 habits. The flesh is rather dry, dividing when cooked into long 
 thin strips. These fish are generally caught by flogging the water 
 with a crooked nail stuck through a piece of red wood at the end of
 
 FISHES. 161 
 
 the Hue. At this bait they will jump right out of water, and then it 
 requires some dexterity to whip them into the boat or canoe before 
 they slip oft' the primitive contrivance. They are also taken with 
 the same hook as the kawai, or in great numbers with the sean. 
 
 The Wareho is a fish somewhat resembling the kawai, but of 
 much better flavour. This is an excellent fish when cured and 
 smoked. It appeal's to frequent the coast chiefly in the winter, as 
 the natives have a special season for the fishery, during June and 
 July. It then most abounds along the const between Cape Terawiti 
 and Kapiti, especially among the islets and rocks inshore of that 
 island, and near Ohariu. 
 
 There are also several other kinds of fish, which are called by 
 the sailors, from some slight resemblance to the English sorts, 
 Herrings, Horse-mackarel, Cole-fish, and Ling. The latter is often 
 taken of the weight of forty pounds. Smelts are abundant on some 
 parts of the coast ; both they and the fish called herring, (ana of 
 the natives,) readily take a fly in the estuaries of rivers, which they 
 enter with the tide. 
 
 Oysfers are in great abundance, and of good quality, in the 
 harbour o'f Port Nicholson, where the natives may constantly be 
 seen diving for them. Mussels, cockles, and clams also resemble 
 our English sorts. A large Craw-fish, obtained by diving among the 
 rocks, supplies the place of the lobster. 
 
 The great abundance of most of these fish is very remarkable ; 
 and ought to be an encouragement to the foundation of large fish- 
 curing establishments, especially as salt may easily be procured by 
 evaporation. The produce would find an excellent market among 
 the Roman Catholic population of the western coast of America, and 
 of Manilla and the adjacent islands. 
 
 There are scarcely any fresh-water fish ; but Eels of the finest 
 kind abound in the swamps, lagoons, and rivers ; a small fish very 
 like Whitebait, is taken in most of the rivers, and exists in the fresh- 
 water lakes in such quantities as to form a principal article of the 
 food of the natives inhabiting the country near the Taupe and other 
 lakes. 
 
 The finest Lampreys, too, are taken in many of the rivers during 
 freshets, by means of weirs very ingeniously erected by the natives. 
 
 In alluding to the indigenous birds, it is necessary 
 to state, as of the trees, that only those most remarkable 
 for utility or agreeableness can be noticed within the 
 space of this book. For a very excellent account of the 
 Fauna of New Zealand, as far as it was known in the 
 year 1843, the reader should refer to that, published at 
 the end of Dr. Dieffenbach's book, which was compiled 
 p2
 
 162 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 by John Edward Gray, Esq., F.R.S., keeper of the 
 Zoological Collections in the British Museum. 
 
 The Kiwi, or Apteryx Anstralis, is the most remarkable and 
 curious bird in New Zealand. It is believed to have never yet been 
 seen in what has been described as the district of Wellington; but 
 it is common to all the mountainous and wooded parts of the 
 islands. It is about the size of a three-months'-old turkey, and is 
 covered with feathers, coarse, long, and slender, similar to those of 
 the emus of New Holland. Its beak is precisely the same as that 
 of the curlew, and is used to thrust into the ground for earth-worms, 
 upon which it feeds. The eyes are always blinking ; the head is 
 small in proportion to the bird, and from the nostrils grow out 
 several long black hairs or feelers, like the whiskers of a cat; its 
 legs are short, remarkably strong for the size of the bird, and are of 
 the gallinaceous character. It has no appearance of either wing or 
 tail. It makes a kind of hissing noise when in search of prey, and 
 strikes the ground with its strong heavy feet, to rouse the earth- 
 worms, and put them in motion. Its sense of smelling appears to 
 be very acute. These birds hide themselves during the day, and 
 come out of their retreats, which are generally small holes in the 
 earth, or under stones, at night, to seek for their food. They run 
 very fast, and are only to be caught by dogs, by torch-light, which 
 they sometimes kick and bruise severely. They are highly prized, 
 when taken, which is very rarely, by the natives, and their skins are 
 kept, until a sufficient number are collected to make a garment. 
 The flesh is black, sinewy, tough, and tasteless. There is a stuffed 
 specimen in the British Museum ; and a live specimen was brought 
 home in the year 1845, and purchased by the Earl of Derby, for his 
 collection at Knowsley. 
 
 The Huia, or Neomorpha Gouldii, abounds on the hills near 
 Port Nicholson. It is the colour and size of a black bird, with 
 bright yellow wattles on either side of the insertion of the beak, and 
 with long, slender, yellowish legs and feet. The plumage is of a 
 glossy black, and very fine: it has for its tail, four long, broad, 
 black feathers, tipped with white at the extremity, which gives it a 
 very lively appearance. These feathers are much valued by the 
 natives, and are sent as presents to the natives of the North to 
 ornament their hair, on grand occasions, or when going out to 
 battle. The most remarkable feature in the appearance of this bird, 
 is the form of its beak, which is slender, and resolves itself into a 
 semicircle. Its food is worms and insects, with a small berry called 
 ponga. After the skin is taken off, which is always done for the 
 sake of wearing a tuft of feathers in the ear, the flesh is delicious. 
 
 Pukeko (Porphyrio melanotus). A species of water-hen, the 
 size of a well-grown capon. It resides in the swamps; has very 
 long red legs, with three long toes and one short toe on each foot.
 
 INDIGENOUS BIRDS. 163 
 
 The eye is particularly small; the beak broad, very strong, aud of a 
 deep crimson ; the forehead bare of feathers, and of the same deep 
 crimson colour as the beak. The plumage of this bird is rather 
 coarse, of a dark shaded brown, tinged with green, except the neck 
 aud breast, which are of a deep and brilliant purple ; it has also a 
 small tuft of fine white feathers under the tail, which is very short. 
 These birds are not strong on the wing, but sometimes fly from 
 their native retreats in the morasses, and rob the potato-fields 
 nearest their abode, at which time they are easily snared, and great 
 numbers taken. The flesh is rather coarse, but of tolerable flavour. 
 
 Kukupa (Colttmba spadlrca). A large wood-pigeon, very plen- 
 tiful in all the forests. This is one of the most beautiful birds 
 the country possesses. It is much larger than the largest wild or 
 tame pigeons in England, and has a plumage unrivalled among the 
 extensive family of doves for splendour and variety ; green, purple, 
 and gold are, however, the prevailing colours. It is a heavy-flying 
 bird, which makes it an easy prey to the hawks, with which the 
 woods abound. They are easily killed with a spear or a musket ; 
 and if two birds are found upon the same tree, they are either so 
 sluggish or stupid as not to fly when one is either killed or 
 wounded. They feed upon the berries of the miro-tree, are most 
 delicious eating, and in season from January to June. These birds 
 are much valued on account of both the quantity and quality of 
 their flesh. 
 
 HYA-rt, or wood-hen (Ocydromus Ausfralis). This bird fre- 
 quents the retired parts of the country, and especially the forests. 
 It lives in burrows like the kiwi, aud lays its eggs in the same 
 situations. It is unable to fly, only assisting itself in running, like 
 the ostrich, by means of its wings. Its cry, a long plaintive 
 whistle, is heard soon after dusk ; and a dog trained to the sport 
 will follow this sound, and catch the bird. It is about the size of 
 a pheasant, and excellent eating. 
 
 Kaka (Nvstor meridionalis). A bird of the parrot kind, as 
 large as the pigeon. It is capable of learning to imitate the human 
 voice to an astonishing degree. Its feathers are of a dark russet 
 colour ; round the neck, upon the thighs, and under the tail, 
 beautifully tinged and spotted with deep red. It has a large round 
 dark eye, and the feathers encircling it are shaded with a mixture of 
 yellow and red. This bird feeds upon all kinds of fruit, berries, and 
 farinaceous roots. It bites holes in trees, in which it makes its 
 nest ; laying four, and sometimes five eggs, perfectly white. The 
 cry of this bird, when ranging at large in the woods, is harsh aud 
 disagreeable. Its flesh is quite as much esteemed as that of the 
 pigeon; and it abounds in the woods. 
 
 Kukariki. There are two species of this little green parroquet, 
 (Flalijcercits Nvvtc Zeluiiditr and ZVicstoffoMau Aurifroits) neither 
 of them much larger than a canary bird. They are found very
 
 164 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 mischievous to the corn-fields in fresh clearings, congregating from 
 the forest in flocks like sparrows to feed on the grain. Their flesh 
 is tender and well-flavoured, so that a good pie may be obtained by 
 guarding the crop from depredation. 
 
 Tui (Prosthemadera N. Zclandits). This remarkable bird, 
 from the versatility of its talent for imitation, has, by some, been 
 called the " Mocking Bird ;" and, from its peculiar plumage, has by 
 others been denominated the " Parson Bird." It is so restless in its 
 disposition, as to seem incapable of remaining in one situation, or 
 unemployed, for a single moment. There is not a note of any bird 
 of the woods but what it exactly imitates ; and, when confined in a 
 cage, it learns with great ease and correctness to speak long 
 sentences. It imitates dogs, cats, turkeys, geese, and, in fact, every 
 sound which is repeated a few times in its hearing. Its size is that 
 of the thrush ; and its plumage a beautiful glossy black, with a few 
 very fine white hairy feathers, scattered about the head and breast, 
 a few stronger ones about the nostrils, and two small clusters of 
 long white feathers hanging down from the neck upon the breast, 
 resembling a pair of clerical bands. Its eye is penetrating, and its 
 voice peculiarly mellow. Its general food is flies and small insects, 
 which it is very expert in catching, supplying itself in a very short 
 time with great abundance. It also feeds upon the berries of various 
 plants, and will not reject earth-worms. This bird seems to 
 associate with every other warbler of the woods ; and, next to the 
 ground-lark, is found in the greatest number of all the birds in New 
 Zealand. It is delicious eating. It seems to be of a tender 
 constitution, short-lived, and not able to bear the extremes of heat 
 or cold. One bird, however, was brought alive to England in 1845, 
 and bought for the Earl of Derby's collection at Knowsley. 
 
 There are several species of wild ducks, which frequent in great 
 numbers the mouths of rivers, and sand-banks on the sea-coast. 
 Among these the paradise-duck, or Pu-tangi-tangi, (Caesarea varic- 
 gata,') is remarkable for its size, for the beauty of its plumage, and 
 the delicacy of its flesh. Teal, very like our English ones, are also 
 common on the rivers and lakes. High np among the mountains, 
 the rapid streams are inhabited by the Wiho, (Malacorynchus 
 Forsterorum ?) a black duck with a white bill, whose cry is a shrill 
 whistle, and the flesh of which is exceedingly fat and well-flavoured. 
 
 A Quail, resembling that of France, is found in bevies in the 
 open country ; but is not so common on the North as on the 
 Middle Island. These birds show a tendency to frequent the newly- 
 made stubble-fields. It has not yet been established whether they 
 are migratory or not. 
 
 There are six or seven varieties of the Cormorant or Shag, 
 (yraucaliis,) called kauwau by the natives. Those that live near 
 the sea-shore in communities, building their nests in dead trees 
 overhanging the water, are very good eating if the skin is taken off 
 before cooking. The eggs are also of good flavour.
 
 INDIGENOUS BIRDS. 165 
 
 The Torta, or Oyster-catcher (Htematopu* pleat us), a black 
 bird about the size of a fowl, found on the sea-shore, is also good 
 for the table ; and so are two or three kinds of Waders, and Sand- 
 pipers, or Curlew, which are fonnd in flocks on the sandy beaches. 
 
 A large Bitten, the Maluku of the natives (Herod'uu matulm), 
 is common in the swamps ; and a small bluish Crane is often seen 
 on the rocks close to the sea-shore. 
 
 There are two species of Hatcks. One, the kahu of the natives, 
 (falco h<trpr,) is abont the size of a pigeon, and they are very 
 numerous. The other, karttraretca (falco brtmnea), is much less 
 common, and not larger than a sparrow-hawk: it is however 
 exceedingly dariug, and will not hesitate sometimes to pounce on a 
 pigeon or chicken even close to a group of people. 
 
 There is a small Kiny-Jisker (Halcyon rayons), and one or two 
 sorts of Oirlf ; and there are many other birds remaining undescribed, 
 including some a little resembling our Crow, Thrush, and Starling. 
 
 The small singing-birds are in great variety and very 
 numerous. Their warbling is exceedingly delightful; 
 and always loudest for an hour before sunrise and about 
 half an hour afterwards. Among them is one, whose 
 notes sound among the chorus from the woods like a 
 graduated peal of bells. Most of them are very good 
 eating. 
 
 The sea-birds are not different from those of the 
 Pacific generally, and are of no great value to the 
 Colonist. 
 
 The Albatross, sometimes measuring twelve feet from tip to tip 
 of the wings, and the large yellow-headed Gannet, are prized by the 
 natives for their feathers. There is also a sort of Puffin or pelica- 
 Koides, commonly called the mutton-bird, which the natives take in 
 large quantities by lighting fires on the seaward face of the hills near 
 the coast, into which these birds, called titi by the natives, fly, and 
 are killed. They are then dried on racks until sufficiently cured, 
 and stored up for an especial treat. The flesh so preserved is, bow- 
 ever, excessively fat and rank. 
 
 Introduced. 
 
 Among the animals introduced from other countries, 
 there are some which, like the plants mentioned above, 
 have been brought to New Zealand at a comparatively 
 distant period, and others within the last few years 
 only.
 
 166 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 Peafowl were introduced, by Mr. Henry Petre, iu the year 1841, 
 when he brought some from England. It is not known, however, 
 whether he has succeeded in the permanent introduction of these 
 birds. He has also an aviary of Pheasants, and of these latter birds 
 there are also some at Colonel Wakefield's, in Wellington, and at 
 Mr. Burcham's, of the Aglionby Arms, in the village of Aglionby. 
 These are the progeny of some taken out from England by Mrs. 
 "Wills, in 1842 ; but they have not yet been found to multiply rapidly, 
 the young being difficult to rear, and their most nourishing food, 
 ant's eggs, being exceedingly scarce. It is probable, too, that as yet 
 they have been badly paired, there not being enough liens. In 
 taking these birds out, it should be remembered that one cock- 
 pheasant to eight or nine hens, and not equal numbers of each, is 
 the most favourable proportion. They have not yet multiplied suf- 
 ficiently to justify the risk of turning any out to take their chance 
 in the woods ; though, as there are plenty of insects and berries to 
 be found all the year round, and hardly any vermin to destroy them, 
 they would certainly thrive when once well started. 
 
 Turkeys, geese, ducks, and common fowl abound wherever there 
 are settlers ; and thrive uncommonly well. In some places the 
 latter have become wild, and live in coveys among the fern and high 
 grass ; though it is not known whether they have yet bred in that 
 condition. 
 
 Guinea-fowl have also been bred with a view to their being 
 turned out as game ; but there is yet no account of the result of this 
 experiment. 
 
 A few Canaries and BullfincJies, taken over safely by their mis- 
 tresses from this country, will close the list of introduced birds. 
 
 The Dogs which the natives have had for many years as domes- 
 ticated animals, are probably descended from some introduced by 
 ships at an early period ; and it is curious that one of their names 
 for a dog is the same as the Spanish word ' perro.' They are of a 
 most degenerate mongrel breed ; but useful, in packs, for hunting 
 the wild hogs. The natives prize those which have long and silky 
 white hair, in order to make garments of their skins ; and tufts of 
 hair are also used to ornament their spears. 
 
 Many kinds of dogs have been introduced by the Colonists ; in- 
 cluding Bull-dogs, by the whalers, Kangaroo-dogs, (a mixture of 
 greyhound and mastiff,) from New South Wales, and various crosses 
 between these and the natives' dogs, which go under the general 
 name of pig-dogs, and combine courage with speed, being used 
 chiefly to hunt the wild hog, and taught to hold him, when caught, 
 by the ear or jowl, until the hunter comes up. Within the last few 
 years, some well-bred Scotch deer-hounds, and some boar-hounds of 
 the King of Wirtemberg's breed, have been sent out, and have 
 reached Wellington in safety. There is an excellent breed of Scotch 
 colly slieep-dog at Wellington; and various other dogs, such as
 
 ANIMAL: INTRODUCED. 167 
 
 Newfoundland^ terriers, and spaniels, according to the taste of the 
 masters who took them out with them. 
 
 // deserves notice that doys have as yet been perfectly free from 
 distemper and hydrophobia in A0 Zealand. 
 
 The Cat has in the same manner been domesticated with the 
 natives for many years ; and, occasionally, a wild one is met with in 
 the woods. The Colonists hare also imported cats with them. 
 
 Of the Bat, there are two kinds. The smaller kind is supposed 
 to hare been introduced first, and is called kiore maori, or native 
 rat. It is a terrible depredator in the sweet potato and Indian corn 
 grounds, round which the natives set springes for catching it. They 
 are fond of the flesh. The other kind is the large Xoriray rat, which 
 exterminates the other race in its extensive migrations all over the 
 islands. Both kinds have probably been introduced, at some time 
 or other, from the shipping. Mice have also come in the ships from 
 England. In one instance, a cage full of white mice escaped in a 
 store at Wellington, and for some time that and the neighbouring 
 houses were infested with their descendants. 
 
 Pigs were originally introduced by Captain Cook, about seventy 
 yean ago; since which time they have so multiplied, (assisted, pro- 
 bably, by the donations of subsequent navigators,) as to be found in 
 a wild state nearly in every part of the islands. Introductions of 
 new stock from the shipping constantly take place ; but there has, as 
 yet, been no careful importation of select breeds from England. The 
 wild hog, which is caught with dogs, and afterwards domesticated 
 and home-fed, partakes a good deal of the Chinese breed about the 
 head, but frequently grows to a great size. They have been killed, 
 occasionally, weighing as much as 350 pounds when killed and 
 cleaned as soon as caught. The curing of ham and bacon succeeds 
 remarkably well ; and a small settlement, called Petre, on the Wan- 
 ganui river, of which we shall speak farther on, has enjoyed a large 
 trade in this article. 
 
 Hunting the wild hog is very exciting and arduous sport, as 
 practised by the settlers. Owing to the nature of a great part of 
 the country, it is impossible to ride : you have often, indeed, to fol- 
 low your dogs through passages in the underwood, where you must 
 needs crawl on all fours, and sometimes through swamps more than 
 knee-deep. When the hog is caught, your attendant natives, either 
 with flax-leaves gathered on the spot, or with plaited ropes which 
 they have made in readiness, fasten running nooses round his legs, 
 and, if necessary, round his snout. He is then led home in triumph, 
 as it is not considered sportsmanlike to kill him in the field, unless 
 absolutely necessary, and moreover, he carries his own weight home. 
 You therefore depend principally on having well-trained and cou- 
 rageous dogs, and quickness in securing the hog while the dogs 
 have fast bold of his ears or jowl. 
 
 The Horses of New Zealand are principally introduced from
 
 168 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 New Soiub Wales and Van Diemen's Land. This is a strong, 
 hardy breed, being itself a cross between the horses taken by the 
 Australian Colonists from England, and a few Arabs afterwards im- 
 ported. This horse is generally rather above the middling size, 
 very strongly made, and of enduring temper and constitution. Even 
 in the Australian Colonies, however, and since in New Zealand 
 also, the blood has been crossed by importations of inferior stock 
 from South America and the Cape of Good Hope, in both which 
 places the horses are small and hardy, but bndly shaped : those 
 especially from Chile, descended from the Spanish barb, commonly 
 have large heads, often ewe-necks, and always low hind-quarters. 
 
 In the year 1840, Mr. Watt brought to Wellington, from Sydney, 
 a horse called ' Figaro,' from whom many of the young horses now 
 in the Colony are descended. His pedigree was as follows : 
 " Figaro, foaled in December, 1837, got by Operator, dam Adelaide 
 by Teorum. Operator was foaled in 1832, got by Emilius, dam 
 Worthless by Walton, out of Altisidora by Dick Andrews." 
 
 Shortly afterwards, a small but very compact, well-shaped horse, 
 named ' Calmuck Tartar,' was also introduced from Van Diemen's 
 Land ; but he had no pretensions to any pedigree which can be 
 traced to the English stud-book. 
 
 In January, 1843, Mr. Henry Petre imported from England, 
 ' Riddlesworth' and ' jEther.' He deserves the greatest credit for 
 the condition in which they arrived at Wellington, having been in 
 boxes on deck throughout the voyage. At the Cape of Good Hope, 
 Mr. Petre purchased nineteen brood mares ; but they were not 
 highly esteemed for that purpose, being very small, and small-boned 
 for their size. 
 
 " Riddlesworth is a dark-brown horse, with great power and 
 beauty, bred by Mr. Thornhill, in 1837 ; got by Emilius, out of 
 Bee in a Bonnet, by Blacklock, out of Maniac, &c." 
 
 " ^Ether was foaled in 1836. Got by St. Patrick out of Pastille, 
 by Rubens. For performances, see Racing Calendar for 1839 and 
 1840."* 
 
 In 1845, Mr. Petre took J^ther to Sydney, and sold him there, 
 so that some of his stock only remains in New Zealand. 
 
 Two very inferior horses, ' Mazeppa' and ' Damask,' were also 
 imported from New South Wales, in 1841 and 1842. The latter 
 had pretensions to a pedigree which were belied by his appearance : 
 and the former, although a useful sort of steeple-chasing horse, 
 never had any whatever. 
 
 Races are held in January or February of every year, at Wel- 
 lington; but these are generally hurdle-races, contended for by the 
 horses imported from New South Wales. As yet, no races have 
 
 * These are the pedigrees, as advertised by the owners of the 
 horses in the local newspapers.
 
 ANIMAL: INTRODUCED. 169 
 
 been instituted especially for the competition of the young stock 
 bred in the Colony. In February, 1848, at the Burnham Water 
 near Wellington, Mr. Petre gave a cup of '201. to be 
 contended for on the following conditions: " Entrance, '2/. Heats 
 twice round course. Six leaps over hurdles three feet nine inches 
 high, in each heat. N'o distance. Open to all horses carrying 
 1 1st. lilb. Second horse to receive entrance-money." 
 
 A few Asses and Mule.* have been imported from Chile. 
 
 Cuttle have been chiefly introduced from New South Wales and 
 Van Diemen's Land; the chosen stock coming from Messrs. Imlay's 
 establishment at Twofold Bay, in the south-east corner of Australia. 
 One or two Durham bulls have been imported from England; and 
 a few Durham, Devon, and Short-horned cows. The brood-stock 
 brought from the Australian Colonies chiefly consists of very hand- 
 some, well-shaped cows of the Short-horned breed ; bnt some poley 
 Devon* , and a few long-horned Devon and Hereford working bul- 
 locks have also been received. 
 
 A- yet there has been no stall-feeding, the indigenous pasture 
 being good all the year round. The custom has been, like that of 
 New South Wales, to let the cattle, including even milch cows, rove 
 at large over a tract of country, generally called a run. They are 
 branded with the initials of the owner, in letters large enough to be 
 distinguished with a glass at a considerable distance. When wanted 
 to be branded, or selected for market, or even sometimes for the 
 daily milking, they are driven by men on horseback, armed with 
 long whips, into a strong fold, called a stock yard. The cattle that 
 have been some time on the run, and especially the young stock 
 calved there, often afford a long and exciting chase before they can 
 be brought in; and the horses used to the sport take as much de- 
 light in it as the riders, and become very expert at turning sharply 
 and suddenly on steep hill-sides and in other difficult positions, when 
 following the turns and doubles of the cattle. Sometimes the latter 
 charge full upon man and horse ; and if you cannot avoid the attack 
 by a swift movement of your steed, your only chance is to crack the 
 stock-whip, which produces a report like a pistol, in front of the 
 beast's nose, when it will almost invariably turn. The management 
 of the stock-whip, however, requires experience in order to use it 
 effectually, and not to injure yourself or your horse. The wooden 
 handle is about fourteen inches long ; the thong, of plaited hide, 
 twelve or fourteen feet in length. 
 
 The cattle thrive exceedingly well upon the wild pasture, if there 
 are not too many fed within a given space of ground ; and the cows 
 yield more than an average quantity and quality of milk. Working 
 bullocks are much used for ploughing and other purposes of heavy 
 di aught, from the want of horses fitted for such employment. They 
 are harnessed by a wooden yoke over the neck, and iron bames. 
 
 It has already been observed, that there are some wild cattle on 
 Q
 
 170 ANIMAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 the island of Kapiti. Tbere are also a few oil the eastern head of 
 the estuary of the Pelorus river, in Admiralty Bay, which have ori- 
 ginated in the same way, from two or three head, brought from the 
 Australian Colonies, and given to the natives, many years ago, in 
 exchange for flax. It is very probahle that, in the course of a few 
 years, cattle may be found wild nil over the islands, as it is difficult, - 
 under the present system, to prevent a few from straying occasionally 
 out of their runs ; and they can live almost as well on many of the 
 shrubs which form the underwood of the forest as on herbage. The 
 fern-covered districts alone are unsuited to the maintenance of 
 cattle ; but even in them the fern gives way to grass very rapidly, if 
 a few spots free from fern can be found to begin upon. 
 
 The Sheej) in New Zealand have nearly all been introduced from 
 New South Wales, and are therefore almost entirely of the Spanish 
 Merino breed,*many of their progenitors having been imported into 
 Australia from Saxony. A few Merino rams, of Lord Western's 
 breed, were recently imported into Wellington, direct from England, 
 by Mr. Clifford. It is unnecessary here to describe the extraordi- 
 nary improvement which takes place in the weight and quality of 
 the wool, as well as in the weight and quality of the mutton, in 
 New Zealand, when compared with those of the same sheep in New 
 South Wales. The sheep-farming of New Zealand has already been 
 amply described in the account of the Wairarapa plain, at page 121 
 of this chapter.* 
 
 Goats were introduced from the shipping at an early period, and 
 are now in great abundance, especially at the whaling-stations. 
 None have yet run wild in the country. 
 
 Indigenous. 
 
 The indigenous insects, many of them peculiar to 
 New Zealand, are numerous, and curious to the natu- 
 ralist; but here will only be noticed those of which it 
 imports the Colonist to know: 
 
 There is a large Grasshopper, or Locust; but it is not seen in 
 great numbers, or destructive. 
 
 Caterpillars are numerous ; and some of them very pernicious 
 to the crops. There is, especially, a black caterpillar, (auata of the 
 natives,) which attacks potatoes, eating the young holm off level 
 with the ground. In some years this plague is hardly seen ; in 
 others, the damage done is considerable. 
 
 Ants are exceedingly scarce; as has already been observed in 
 relation to the difficulty of finding food for young pheasants. 
 
 Small, harmless Centipedes are not uncommon, especially among 
 dry drift wood on the sea-shore; and there is always found in the 
 same situations a Spider, which the natives call fcatipo, and report to 
 
 * See also Chapter VII., for an account of sheep-farming near 
 Nelson.
 
 INDIGENOUS : INTRODUCED. 171 
 
 possess the venomous qualities of the tarantula ; but of this no posi- 
 tive evidence has yet been obtained. 
 
 S'tiid-jiies abound everywhere ; and Motquitoet in and near the 
 woods, or low, swampy places. Both disappear in cold or windy 
 weather ; and the latter retreat gradually, as clearing advances and 
 the smoke of dwellings increases. A mosqnito-cnrtain, however, 
 is a very necessary defence for women, or new comers, who intend 
 to settle away from the Town. The Canadian sportsman's preventive, 
 a bottle of sweet oil and turpentine, wherewith to anoint the face, 
 neck, and hands, before going to bed, will be found very effective by 
 the bushman or explorer who cannot rig ont a curtain ; and the 
 smoke from a fire of dried cow-dung, left smouldering at the wind 
 ward side of a hut, also drives the tormentors away. 
 
 In the hot weather, another plague is the common maggot, or 
 bloic-jly, which is met with even in the midst of the woods, and de- 
 posits its eggs on all provisions, and also on blankets, and any other 
 woollen clothing left uncovered. 
 
 It is needless to say that in the native villages there is the same 
 abundance of vermin as in all other warm countries, where the 
 strictest deanliness is not preserved. 
 
 Introduced. 
 
 Even in the insect world, colonization has conferred 
 benefits on New Zealand. 
 
 The English Colonists have introduced Bees, as 
 though to remind themselves of the process by which 
 they have swarmed from their parent hive. The 
 earliest attempt to introduce bees from England was 
 made by Mrs. Will*, in May, 1842; but this first colony 
 died on the passage. Shortly afterwards, a healthy 
 hive, sent by Mrs. Allom, of London, arrived safely, 
 and was established at Nelson. The first bees actually 
 landed alive at Wellington were brought from Sydney, 
 by Mr. John Carne Bidwill, in the same year. The 
 progeny of this and other parent stocks has increased 
 in an almost incredible degree; and the progress of this 
 little insect, as compared with its natural history in 
 England, is one of the most remarkable proofs of the 
 beauty of the New Zealand climate. 
 
 The Reverend W. Cotton, who accompanied Bishop 
 Selwyn to New Zealand, in 1841, as his chaplain, was 
 an accomplished and enthusiastic bee-master before his 
 departure from England; and he has recently published
 
 172 THE REV. W. COTTON 
 
 in the local newspapers a series of Essays on the 
 Management of Bees,* which should be perused by 
 every emigrant. While they give the most interesting 
 account of the progress of bees in New Zealand, they 
 are full of useful observation and good advice; and the 
 language in which they are couched is touchingly 
 simple, and adapted to the most homely understanding. 
 "VVe shall only here extract a few of the most striking 
 points: 
 
 "Get a swarm from a friend early in the season, tbat is, in 
 October or November, in order tbat your stock may be well esta- 
 blished before the swarming season is over (the end of February"), 
 by which time you ought to have several hives in your bee-house." 
 
 * * * * j u thjg climate bees are so wonderfully prolific that I 
 have known as many as twenty-five hives come from one in the 
 course of twelve mouths; not all from the parent stock, but 
 standing to it in the relation of children, grand-children, great- 
 grand-children, great-great-graml-children, and even great-great- 
 great-grand-children, to the fourth and fifth generation. But as 
 this very large increase can only take place in the warmest situa- 
 tions, I will suppose the increase to be much less than this say 
 from five to tenfold every year ; and he must be a stingy bee-master 
 indeed who will not freely give out of this abundance. *****" 
 
 "SWARMING AND HIVING BEES. 
 " A swarm of bees in May 
 
 Is worth a load of hay ; 
 
 A swarm of bees in June 
 
 Is worth a silver spoon ; 
 
 A swarm of bees in July 
 
 Is not worth a fly. 
 
 " so runs the old English saying here a September swarm does 
 not differ so very much in value from a February one, for the 
 swarming season ranges between these two months. I have known 
 a swarm of the latter month support itself very well through the 
 winter, and in the following spring become a most productive hive. 
 Still, as I said before, a young bee-master had better get a stock 
 early in the season, and then he will have a whole row before it is 
 over." * * * * " A bee-master who has only been used to the 
 English rate of increase, will be perfectly surprised, and as it were 
 overwhelmed with the multitude of swarms which will after the first 
 
 * flints on the Management of Sees, by the Rev. W. Cotton, 
 M.A., begun in New Zealand Spectator, (a newspaper published 
 at Wellington,) of February 13, 1847, and continued in suc- 
 ceeding numbers of that year, and also in that of January 22, 
 
 and succeeding numbers.
 
 ON BEES IN NEW ZEALAND. 173 
 
 nd yr.u i>sne from his hives. Further increase will no 
 longer be an object with him. What he will then desire is to get 
 as much honey as possible from his existing stock." * * * * 
 
 " The season of the year at which the greatest quantity of honey 
 may be taken will vary of course in the different parts of these 
 islands, as they extend over so many degrees of latitude. In the 
 northern districts they work during the entire winter (though in the 
 English sense this is not an appropriate word). The queen rests 
 from her maternal toils, though the workers make no pause in their 
 honey-gathering ; so the very purest honey may be taken during the 
 winter mouths. In the latitude of Auckland the work of a hive is 
 suspended for a month or so, varying of course with the season ; 
 whilst in the south I think their state of torpor will be found to 
 extend over a longer period, and the habits of the bee will differ less 
 from those of their English brethren." * * * * 
 
 "It is impossible to state how much honey may be taken from a 
 well-stocked apiary in the course of the year, for it will depend so 
 much upon the situation and the number of bee-masters who happen 
 to be near together. A country may be over-stocked with bees just 
 as a paddock may be over-stocked with cattle. * * * * But there is 
 hardly any limit to the quantity of honey which may be procured 
 from an isolated apiary, favourably situated near an extensive tract 
 of wood-land. I will give an example : 
 
 " A single swarm was placed in such a situation as this in the 
 summer of 1843-44; by September, 1844, it had yielded thirty-one 
 pounds of honey ; as it was a single stock, it was not taxed 
 severely. The following little table gives the amazing produce of 
 it and its offspring up to the respective dates annexed to the weight 
 of the honey : 
 
 " September, 1844 31 Ibs. 
 
 1845 205 
 
 1840 721 
 
 1847 1211 
 
 Total in four years . . . 2108 
 
 " If this, the produce of a single hive, does not make English 
 bee-keepers open their eyes with astonishment, I shall be surprised. 
 It certainly should encourage New Zealand bee-masters to study the 
 gentle craft. Nor do I think the limit of productiveness has even, 
 in that locality, been reached as yet." * * * * " We have hollow 
 trees in abundance. Many of them at the Bay of Islands are 
 already tenanted by bees, and honey in considerable quantities has 
 been brought in by the Maorics (natives) for sale." * * * * "In 
 this country the bees are, I am thankful to say, able to feed 
 themselves all the year round, and lay up a surplus store for their 
 master likewise." * * * * " There is hardly any season, at least in 
 the northern parts of the island, in which the bees do not work 
 Q2
 
 174 MINERAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 nearly all the year, as there is a perpetual succession of flowers in 
 the woods." * * * * " A good deal of the craft of bee-keeping is 
 different in New Zealand from what is useful in England. The 
 length of the summer, the mildness of the winter, and greater, 
 consequently, increase of the bees all these make the odds ; and 
 so I have compiled this little manual, which I believe will give you 
 more practical hints than any European bee-book would do, not 
 excepting my own." 
 
 Mr. Cotton has taught the natives in the Wellington 
 district how to manage bees, and how to make hives for 
 them; and they have already shown the greatest eager- 
 ness and aptitude for doing both. 
 
 III. MINERAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 Up to this time, no mineral productions have been 
 discovered within the district of Wellington. The 
 stone, in most places, is too much laminated and dis- 
 posed to crumble, to be cut in large blocks for building 
 purposes. In some situations, however, it is used for 
 this purpose, in such rough and small pieces as the 
 pickaxe will loosen from the rock. The farm-house at 
 Tettcott, on Watt's Peninsula, was built in this way by 
 Mr. Molesworth, with stones rolled down from the sur- 
 rounding hill-sides. For road-making, this is a very 
 useful rock, being easily broken up. More recently, 
 however, a vein of building-stone has been discovered 
 by Mr. Cridland, an architect residing at Wellington. 
 He thus describes it in a letter* to a Wellington news- 
 paper of July or August, 1847: 
 
 " The rock is an igneous formation of greenstone or trap. It 
 forms a dike, which crops out on the Pitone Road, above Nga Hau- 
 ranga, and in its course traverses the Kai-Wara-Wara stream, a little 
 above Mr. Schultze's mill, and again above the bridge on the Karori 
 Road. It proves to be an excellent building stone. It can he easily 
 wrought and dressed, taking a perfectly smooth face and sharp arris. 
 It is adapted for the finest kinds of work, and could be obtained in 
 large blocks, free from fracture. It is very hard, does not absorb 
 water, and appears to be a very desirable stone. Its colour is light 
 grey, varying in some parts to green, and weight about lifteeu 
 cubic feet to the ton. It might be used for street paving." 
 
 * Re-published in Nete Zealand Journal of Jan. ID, 1848, vol. 
 ix., No. 212, p. 4.
 
 DISTRIBUTION OF LAND. 175 
 
 Plenty of day, of the right sort for brickmaking, is 
 to be found everywhere on and near the hills. 
 
 On many of the sea-beaches, cockle-shells have col- 
 lected in such large quantities as to afford an almost in- 
 exhaustible supply to the lime-burner. 
 
 The land in the Wellington district was originally 
 sold by the New Zealand Company under the following 
 conditions: 
 
 A settlement was projected in England, to consist 
 of 1st, a Town, containing 1100 sections of one acre 
 each, besides streets, and the necessary reserves for 
 public purposes, including a broad Belt of land round 
 the Town for the recreation of the inhabitants; and, 
 2ndly, a rural district, consisting of 1100 sections, of 
 100 acres each. One Town-section was attached to 
 each rural section. 
 
 Of these double sections, 110 were reserved for the 
 natives. 
 
 As soon as the remaining 990 double sections had 
 been applied for by purchasers, who paid 100/. in 
 London for every rural section with a Town-section 
 attached, 1100 numbers were thrown into a wheel, and 
 an order of choice was drawn out for each double 
 section purchased, and for each native reserve. The 
 purchasers then received land-orders entitling them to 
 choose one Town-section and one rural section for each 
 land-order, in the rotation governed by the number 
 which had been drawn for it; and the native reserves 
 took their chance with the rest. 
 
 Much of the land selected has changed hands; trans- 
 fers having been effected at various times, in quantities 
 varying from ten or twelve sections to the smallest 
 subdivision of a valuable town acre. The number of 
 resident land-owners in the district now, perhaps, 
 amounts to 300 or 400. The absentee proprietors 
 have generally appointed agents to select, manage, and 
 lease their lands; but in hardly any case have these 
 agents been entrusted with the power of selling any of
 
 176 PRICE AND BENT OF LAND. 
 
 their principals' land. It would be well if' the absentee 
 proprietors would so far modify this arrangement as to 
 give their agents the power of granting leases for long 
 periods, with a power to the lessee to purcliase at 
 certain stated intervals, for a price to be then fixed by 
 valuation, or arbitration between the landlord and 
 tenant; for, in a new country, the best tenants to be 
 obtained are the very men who will object to make 
 improvements on land from the ultimate possession of 
 which they are debarred. 
 
 The present price of land in the district varies greatly 
 with its quality and situation, and its relative proximity 
 to, or rather accessibility from, the Town. Thus, some 
 land four miles off, with a good road to it, or only sepa- 
 rated by the navigable waters of the harbour, is worth 
 more than land of richer description and nearer to the 
 Town, but to which no good road may yet have been 
 made. As much as one thousand pounds has been 
 offered for a single section in the most valuable part of 
 the town: even rural land of inferior quality, but near 
 the town, and with a road made to it, has been sold at 
 the rate of forty pounds per acre: while many of the 
 rural sections, from their distance or inaccessibility, 
 have as yet no marketable value whatever. 
 
 Good uncleared land, at a convenient distance from 
 the port, and with a good road to it, may be bought in 
 the colony at from three to four pounds per acre in 
 large quantities: smaller allotments generally fetching 
 higher prices. Occasionally, a whole section may be 
 bought in England from some absentee proprietor at 
 perhaps a rather cheaper rate. 
 
 The terms of leases of course vary very much; but 
 in the case of heavily-timbered land, with good soil, in 
 average situations, a clearing-lease is generally agreed 
 upon, by which the tenant has the land rent-free for 
 the first three or four years, and then pays a rent which 
 augments periodically; as, five shillings per acre for 
 the next four or three years, ten shillings per acre for
 
 COST OF CLEAUIMJ. 177 
 
 the following seven, and fifteen or twenty .shillings per 
 acre for the remaining seven years of a twenty-one- 
 years' lease. 
 
 Town-land is generally let at so much per foot of 
 frontage to the street; and this rate varies from one or 
 two to twenty shillings. In long leases of sections in a 
 valuable situation, covenants to erect buildings of certain 
 dimensions and structure are generally insisted on by 
 the landlord. 
 
 A fair conception may be formed of the cost of clear- 
 ing and cultivating the land, from the evidence on that 
 subject, furnished to the House of Commons' Committee 
 on New Zealand matters, in the autumn of 1844, by 
 the late Mr. Francis Alexander Molesworth, one of the 
 most persevering and energetic of the earliest Colonists, 
 who was -the first to set the example of clearing forest- 
 land on a large scale in the valley of the Hutt. The 
 land on which he began these experiments is part of 
 the farm of Newry, on the left bank of the river, imme- 
 diately opposite the village of Aglionby, and possesses 
 some of the deepest and richest alluvial soil within the 
 district. When Mr. Molesworth commenced his work, 
 this land bore the heaviest timber which the woods- 
 man ever has to contend with. His estimates are as 
 follows: 
 
 " You have farmed yourself a considerable quantity of land on 
 tbe Hutt ? I have about 100 acres under cultivation, which I cleared 
 myself. 
 
 " Can you give the Committee any information as to the cost of 
 clearing land for cultivation ? I have made out a short .statement 
 of the expenses of clearing, and the expenses of the three first crops; 
 this was done not by my own men, but by contract with others, 
 shortly before my leaving the country ; the expense of clearing was 
 as follows : felling and lopping, logging and burning, at ;V. an acre ; 
 grubbing the roots and taking up all the stumps, six inches and 
 under in diameter, at Is. per rood, 8/. ; collecting the roots, &c., and 
 wheeling them, 10s. ; making the whole expense of clearing an 
 acre, I'M. I0s. ; then there is a considerable deduction to be made 
 from this ; while the work is going on, you supply the men with 
 rations, flour and beef, tea and sugar, and such things, which nre 
 generally supplied to them at retail prices, but which you buy at the
 
 178 COST OF CULTIVATION 
 
 wholesale prices, so that you have a profit upoii them ; I should say 
 that the reduction would be about fifteen per cent. 
 
 " What, then, would be the net amount per acre of clearing land ? 
 The net cost, I think, of clearing it and grubbing it would be about 
 121. an acre. 
 
 " Is that heavily-timbered laud ? The most heavily-timbered in 
 the country; the district on which 1 am settled consists of the 
 alluvial banks of a river, which are annually flooded three or four 
 times ; there is a deposit remains after every flood, and I need not 
 say that the soil, therefore, is rendered exceedingly prolific ; vegeta- 
 tion is dense in the extreme ; you cannot walk through a wood 
 without cutting your way through the brushwood before you. 
 
 " When will the land pay for that expense of clearing ? The 
 first crop, I reckon, will clear the whole expenses, and leave you 
 something over, and you have the land cleared. 
 
 " Have you a statement by which you can show that ? I have : 
 
 " Expetise of putting in a Crop of Potatoes on new Land, the Ground 
 being broken up. 
 
 s. d. 
 
 " Drilling furrows, planting potatoes, and covering ... 1 10 
 
 One hoeing 15 
 
 One earthing ... ... ... ... ... ... 15 
 
 Seed, 7 cwt., at 5s. per cwt 1 15 
 
 Digging and carrying, 10s. per ton, at 7 tons per acre, 3 10 
 
 8 5 
 
 " I find that a fair average crop was between seven and a half 
 and eight tons an acre ; I have had considerably more and less than 
 that ; the whole expense, therefore, of putting in and digging out a 
 crop of potatoes was 8/. 5s. an acre ; the value of the crop, I think, 
 is nearly 22 ; then you have your land thoroughly cleared, and 
 in capital order for a crop of wheat ; the whole expense is about 20J., 
 and you get a return of about 22/.; something must be allowed, of 
 course, for the chances of not selling them well, and so on. 
 
 " What would be the expense and value of the next crop ? The 
 next crop I have tried has been wheat, after the stumps were 
 eradicated, and the ground broken up. We always break up the 
 roots within a certain distance. The whole of the surface of the 
 ground is completely laced with the roots ; so that in walking over 
 it you do not walk on the ground, but upon roots. After these are 
 grubbed up, you can work a plough. I have found that a plough 
 with four bullocks, a man and a boy, would plough an acre in two 
 days. The following is an account of the expenses of a wheat- crop 
 upon an acre of ground :
 
 AND AVERAGE PRODUCE. 179 
 
 t. d. 
 
 - \ wheat crop. Two days, four bullocks, a mau and 
 
 a boy, ploughing one acre of ground ... ... 1 12 
 
 One bushel of seed wheat, Is. 7 
 
 Harrowing and sowing 10 
 
 Two boeings 8 
 
 Reaping and making 15 
 
 Carrying 10 
 
 Thrashing, 5*. per quarter 1 10 
 
 5 12 
 " Average of 16 acres of wheat in 1843, 44 bushels. 
 
 " My crop last year, after I thrashed it out, was, as near as 
 possible, about 44 bushels to the acre; in some places, where I had 
 seeds sent me from England, and I cultivated as a garden, the return 
 was more than that. 
 
 " Has it been in some instances as much as 60 bushels ? More 
 than that ; but that was with a great deal of care taken in the culti- 
 vation ; it was perfectly*a garden ; 44 bushels is the average of the 
 16 acres. 
 
 " What is the value of that ? I got 25/. a ton for the flour. 
 
 " What would that be per acre * About 207. : we paid very high 
 for grinding, as much as 2*. a bushel. 
 
 " What profit should you have ? Nearly 147. 10*. per acre.'* 
 
 The following Lists of Prices Current, taken from the 
 n't-llington Independent, of March 8, 1848, will inform 
 the Colonist as to the probable value of his produce : 
 
 WELLINGTON MABKET. 
 
 Retail prices, March 7, 1848. 
 
 First flour, ICs. to I/, per 100 fts.; Bread, # 2 ft loaf, , r >d. ; 
 beef, 7d. to !)J. ^ lb; mutton, 7d. to 9d. p lb; pork, 4J. to (id. P 
 Ib ; fowls, ^ pair, 3s. to 4s. ; ducks, $* pair, 4s. to 5s. ; geese, 7s. 
 each; turkeys, 7s. each; fresh butter, Is. Cd. ^ lb ; salt butter, 
 Is. - .M. t> ft) ; potatoes, 5s. Cd. ^ cwt. ; eggs, Is. to Is. 3d. $* dozen ; 
 cheese, Is. p tt>; maize. 4s. fc> bush.; bran, Is. Gd. p bush.; 
 sugar, Manilla, 4d. to Cd. ^ lb ; loaf sugar, lOd. to Is. p lb ; 
 honey, Is. 4d. ^ ft ; ale, 2s. Gd. & gal. ; ham and bacon, 6d. to 
 7d. fc rt> ; firewood, per cord, 18s. to I/. 5s. 
 
 * House of Commons' Report N. Z. 1844. No. 566. Evide'nce, 
 pp. 1*0. 181; qq. 3395-3405.
 
 180 -VVELLINGTON PRICES CURRENT. 
 
 WHOLESALE. 
 
 The prices of Spirits and Tobacco are in loud. 
 
 Ale, N. Z., per hhd., 47. to 57. ; # barrel, 27. 14s. to 37. ; bark, 
 dyeing, $ ton, 17. 15s. to 21. 10s.; do., tanning, I/. 10s. ; candles, 
 N. Z., $ doz. ft, 7s.; coals, N. Z., $ ton, I/. 5s.; cordage, N. Z., 
 $ cwt., 27. to 27. 10s. ; flax, N. Z., ^ ton, unpacked, 10/. to 127. ; 
 oil, black, in casks, $ tun, 147. to 157. ; sperm, do. do , 557. to 607. ; 
 oil butts, N. Z., $ imperial tun, 37. to 3/. 5s. ; timber, sawn plank, 
 ^ 100 feet, 10s. scantling, do., 10s. furniture wood, do., 15s. to 
 I/. 10s.; staves, N. Z., ^ 1200, 21. to 21. 10s. ; shingles, N.Z., # 
 1000, 6s. to 8s. ; whalebone,^ ton, 135/. to 140/. tinners, 407. 
 wheat, $ bushel, 6s. to 7s.; wool, N. Z., $ ft, lid. to Is. do., 
 lambs', lid. to Is. Gd. 
 
 IMPORTS. 
 
 Ale, Bass's, $ dozen, 12s. to 12s. Gd.; arrack, f- gallon, 4s. 6d.; 
 blocks, each, 2s. 6d. to 13s. 6d. ; beef, Sydney, $ tierce, 4/. 10s. 
 prime India, do., 5/. to 51. 10s. ; blankets, per pair, 18s. to 11. 18s. ; 
 brandy, first quality, $ imperial gallon, 8s. Gd. to 10s. Martell's, 
 lls.; brown stout, ^ hhd., 11. $ barrel, 57.; blacking, $ dozen, 
 5s. to 15s.; candles, sperm, $ ft,* 2s. Gd. to 3s. mould, 7|d.; 
 dip, Gd, ; canvass, $ bolt, 21. to 21. 10s. ; cigars, Manilla, No. 3, 
 ^ 1000, 5/. 5s. No. 4, 57. No. 5, 47. ; coffee, # ft, 8d. ; cordage, 
 English, $ cwt., 21. 10s. to 3/. 10s. ; flour, $ ton, 15/. to 17/. ; 
 gin, Hollands, in cask, ^ gallon, 7s. case, 2 gallons , lls. do., 
 4 gallons , I/.. 4s.; iron, English bar, $ ton, 12/. to 171. hoop, 
 $ ton, 187. to 207. ; mustard, $ dozen, 15s. to I/. 5s. ; nails, from 
 1 to 3 inches, $ ft, 3d. above 3 inches, 3d.; oil, liriseed, $ gal., 
 6s. Gd. to 7s. ; oil butts, Gordon's or Mills', f> imp. tun, 21. 10s. to 
 SI. 5s.; paints, white lead, $ cwt. 11. 10s.4o 21. black, 11. 8s. to 
 1^. 12s.; pitch, per barrel, I/.; pickles, assorted, ^ 1 dozen quarts, 
 11. to 11. 5s. ; pork, Irish, $ barrel, 4/. to 4/. 10s. ; porter, Dunbar, 
 in bottle, $> dozen, 12s. to 13s.; prints, $ piece, 9s. to 16s.; rice. 
 $ cwt., 18s. to 11 8s. ; rum, B. P., ^ gallon, Cs. to 8s. ; sacks, 
 corn and flour, each, 2s. ; salt, Liverpool, $ ton, 4/. to 5/. coarse, 
 6/. ; sheet lead, per ton, 307. to 357. ; slates, $ 1000, according to 
 size, 37. 15s. to 67. 15s.; soap, Hawes's London, $ cwt., 17. 8s. to 
 17. 12s. Liverpool, 17. 5s. to 17. 8s. Sydney, 17. 8s. to 17. 10s. 7d.; 
 sugar, Mauritius, $ ft, 4d. to 5d. refined loaf, ^ ft, 8d. to [)d. 
 Manilla, ^ cwt., 17. 8s. to 17. 10s.; tar, coal, $ barrel, 17. 
 Stockholm, 27. to 27. 10s. ; tea, hyson skin, per chest, 37. 10s. to 
 47. 10s. Congou, 67. 10s. to 77. 10s. ; tobacco, negro-head, ty 
 ft, 6d. to lOd. ; turpentine, ^ gallon, 7s. to 8s.; vinegar, $ 
 gallon, 2s. 6d. to 3s. ; wine, sherry, $ dozen, 15s. to 27. port,
 
 WAGES. PRICES OF FLOUR. 
 
 181 
 
 $ dozeu, 18s. to 2/. ; whisky, per gallon, 8s. to 10s.; cows, milcb, 
 8/. to 121. ; mares, brood, ->">/. to 35/. ; working bullocks, per pair, 
 !/. to HI. ; sheep, each, I/, to ]/. 5s. 
 
 BATES Of FBEI6HT. 
 
 To the Colonies, per ton ... 1 to 1 10 
 To London i to 600 
 
 EXCHANGE. 
 
 Union Bank Bills, on London, ... 
 " " on the Colonies 
 
 Government Bills on Treasury ... 
 Commissariat do. do. 
 
 WAGES FOB LABOCB, (end of 1846.) 
 Domestic, ^ annum, with board and lodging, 14 to '20. 
 
 Predial 25 to 45. 
 
 Trades, p diem 5s. to 7s. 
 
 Tfie following were the Prices of First Quality Flour per ton of 
 20()01bs. in Jr>-llingtii,from 1840 to 1846 inclusive. 
 
 2 per cent, premium. 
 2 per cent, premium. 
 1 per cent, discount to par. 
 1 per cent, premium. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 u 
 
 
 
 _ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 i S 
 
 | 
 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 t 
 
 3- 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 OS 
 
 1 
 
 c 
 
 NoYem 
 
 1 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 jf 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 840 
 
 
 
 .. 
 
 60 
 
 60 
 
 55 
 
 55 
 
 50 
 
 45 
 
 45 
 
 42 
 
 40 
 
 841 
 
 30 
 
 30 
 
 30 
 
 30 
 
 35 
 
 35 
 
 35 
 
 35 
 
 33 
 
 30 
 
 28 
 
 28 
 
 842 
 
 30 
 
 29 
 
 31 
 
 30 
 
 34 
 
 26 
 
 28 
 
 28 
 
 28 
 
 27 
 
 23 
 
 23 
 
 843 
 
 25 
 
 25 
 
 25 
 
 25 
 
 22: 1022: 10 
 
 2.i 
 
 22 : 10 
 
 20 
 
 22 
 
 21 
 
 21 
 
 844 
 
 20 
 
 90 
 
 20 
 
 20 
 
 20 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 14: 10 
 
 14:5 
 
 20 
 
 845 
 
 16 
 
 13: 1513: 15 
 
 13: 1013: 12 
 
 13 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 19 
 
 20 
 
 1C 
 
 16 
 
 846 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 15 17 
 
 19 
 
 23 
 
 25 
 
 23 
 
 24 
 
 18 
 
 15 
 
 1840 
 
 YEARLT AVERAGE. 
 *. d. 
 50 
 
 
 
 *. d. 
 
 1844 17 10 
 
 1845 15 10 
 
 1846 18 13 4 
 
 1841 31 10 
 
 1842 28 
 
 1843 23 
 
 The prices in 1840 and 1841 are taken from the quotations in the Gazette 
 from 1842 from the books of Messrs. Waitt and Tyser, and Mr. R. Waitt ; 
 second quality was often considerably lower especially when first quality wa-< 
 very high, as in April and May 1*40 the seconds were at 40. 
 
 In 1-<V> the prices were affected by a depreciated currency. In 1814 the 
 debentures wpre not in sufficient quantity to cause any great depreciation 
 but in 184.'> the importers had to pay from o to 10 per cent, to obtain bank 
 notes wherewith to purchase remittance to Sydney. An allowance of 74 per 
 cent, is the least that can be made, which would reduce the average of the 
 year (1345) to jU ltb\ per ton.
 
 182 PROBABLE EXPORTS. 
 
 The wheat grown in the valley of the Hutt is of so 
 fine a quality, that it might probably be exported even 
 to England with advantage. 
 
 There are as yet no accurate accounts as to the fitness 
 of the climate for grinding and storing flour, in com- 
 parison with those of the great flour-exporting countries 
 in North and South America. 
 
 Many other articles of profitable cultivation, how- 
 ever, suggest themselves. The equability of the cli- 
 mate, its remarkable freedom from electrical phenomena, 
 and the abundance of pure water, are all circumstances 
 favourable to successful brewing; and, as hops and 
 barley both grow in great perfection, their cultivation 
 would be exceedingly profitable if Beer should be made 
 good enough and in sufficient quantities to supply the 
 population of Australia, India, and South America, 
 which is estimated to consume 100,000 barrels of malt 
 liquor yearly, now sent all the way from England. 
 
 Should the curing of Beef and Pork be undertaken on 
 a large scale, for the supply of whaling and other ships, 
 artificial grasses and roots for the fattening of stock will 
 form an important object of cultivation. 
 
 Horses are already supplied in considerable numbers 
 from the Australian Colonies to India, for the use of 
 the cavalry. There is every prospect of successful 
 horse-breeding in New Zealand. 
 
 Conjectures only can be formed as'to the probable 
 success to be expected from the cultivation of the Mul- 
 berry, the Olive, or the Phormium tenax. 
 
 Sheep-farming has already been alluded to. The 
 following is a statement of the quantities of Wool ex- 
 ported, from Wellington and Nelson together, during 
 the under-mentioned years:
 
 WELLINGTON STATISTICS. 
 
 183 
 
 Year. 
 
 No. of Ibs. 
 
 Value.* 
 
 1843 
 1844 
 1845 
 1840 
 
 Total 
 
 0156 
 17,940 
 25,135 and 7 bales 
 53,596 and 75 bales 
 
 402 
 897 
 1270 
 3399 
 
 105,827 and 82 bales 
 
 5908 
 
 The following are some of the principal Statistical 
 Details relating to the district of Wellington: 
 
 I. WHITE POPULATION, 1847. 
 
 
 
 UXDER li 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 ADULTS. 
 
 YEABS OF 
 
 TOTAL OF 
 
 6 
 
 Name of Place. 
 
 
 AGE. 
 
 
 1 1 
 
 
 
 Males. 
 
 Fern. 
 
 Males. 
 
 Fern. 
 
 Males. 
 
 Fern. 
 
 * 
 
 Wellington . . . 
 
 784 
 
 647 
 
 576 
 
 566 1360 
 
 1213 
 
 2573 
 
 Evans' Bay & Ohiro 
 
 31 
 
 17 
 
 34 
 
 >r, i 
 
 43 
 
 108 
 
 Karori .... 
 
 If 
 
 65 
 
 54 
 
 59 i 1 29 
 
 124 
 
 253 
 
 Wade's Town . . 
 
 23 
 
 21 
 
 23 
 
 18 
 
 46 
 
 39 
 
 85 
 
 Kai Wara Road . 
 
 44 
 
 27 
 
 20 
 
 15 
 
 64 
 
 42 
 
 106 
 
 Porirua Road . . 
 
 81 
 
 58 
 
 75 
 
 G9 
 
 156 
 
 127 
 
 283 
 
 River Hutt, Lowry 
 Bav, Wai Nui-o- 
 
 1 223 
 
 157 
 
 201 
 
 168 
 
 424 
 
 325 
 
 749 
 
 Mata, &c. . . . 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Porirua, &c. . . . 
 
 55 
 
 6 
 
 21 
 
 14 
 
 76 
 
 20 
 
 96 
 
 Coast to Manawatu 
 
 07 
 
 11 
 
 23 
 
 27 
 
 90 
 
 38 
 
 128 
 
 
 1383 
 
 1009 
 
 1027 
 
 962 2410 
 
 1971 
 
 4381 
 
 The above return does not include the population of Wairarapa, (see page 
 126,) or that of the whaling-stations belonging to Wellington, which amounts 
 to 408 men and some women, (see page 193;) or the troops, which amount 
 to 400 or 500 men between Wellington and Manawatu. 
 
 II. RATE OF INCREASE. 
 
 Year. 
 
 Birtlis. 
 
 Deaths. 
 
 Maniages. 
 
 1845 
 1846 
 
 1847 
 
 171 
 210 
 191 
 
 21 
 
 :0 
 20 
 
 13 
 19 
 
 ta 
 
 Three Years 
 
 572 
 
 77 
 
 80 
 
 * As declared at the Custom-house.
 
 WlilTE POPULATION. 
 
 In the year 1845, the total population of the same 
 districts of country, excepting that between Porirua 
 and Manawatu, was 4074 souls, of whom was made 
 the following 
 
 III. CLASSIFICATION BY AGE, 1845. 
 
 Ages. 
 
 Male. 
 
 Fern. 
 
 Totals. 
 
 Adults. 
 
 Under years . . 
 
 471 
 
 605 
 
 976 
 
 Total. 
 
 Males. 
 
 Fern. 
 
 
 457 
 
 368 
 
 825 
 
 
 
 
 14 , 19 
 
 106 
 
 177 
 
 343 
 
 
 
 
 19 , 21 
 
 79 
 
 69 
 
 148 
 
 
 
 
 21 , 30 
 
 385 
 
 339 
 
 7-24 
 
 
 
 
 30 , 40 
 
 395 
 
 263 
 
 658 
 
 2273 
 
 1280 
 
 993 
 
 40 , 50 
 
 196 
 
 105 
 
 301 
 
 
 
 
 50 , 60 
 
 44 
 
 32 
 
 70 
 
 
 
 
 Above CO 
 
 15 
 
 8 
 
 23 
 
 
 
 
 Totals 
 
 2208 
 
 1806 
 
 4074 
 
 
 
 
 
 Of the 2273 adults, the following was the 
 
 IV. CLASSIFICATION BY MARRIAGE, 1845. 
 
 
 Married Couples. 
 
 Unmarried Persons. 
 
 Locality. 
 
 With 
 families. 
 
 Without 
 families. 
 
 Total 
 
 Bache- 
 lor*. 
 
 Spin- 
 sters. 
 
 Widow- 
 ers. 
 
 Widows. 
 
 TotJ 
 
 Wellington . . 
 
 378 
 
 71 
 
 449 
 
 371 
 
 199 
 
 18 
 
 24 
 
 612 
 
 Pitone&theHutt 
 
 106 
 
 18 
 
 124 
 
 94 
 
 28 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 132 
 
 Wade's Town . 
 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 17 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 Kaiwarawara . 
 
 19 
 
 3 
 
 22 
 
 35 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 
 
 48 
 
 Porirua Koad 
 
 36 
 
 4 
 
 40 
 
 24 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 _ 
 
 3ft 
 
 Evans' & Lowry 
 
 "l 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Bay, and Ohiro 
 
 j 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Karon .... 
 
 32 
 
 4 
 
 36 
 
 17 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 34 
 
 Totals . . . 
 
 594 
 
 102 
 
 696 
 
 554 
 
 268 
 
 30 
 
 29 
 
 881
 
 EDUCATION. 
 
 185 
 
 Those of the above population having a definite pur- 
 suit, were thus classed as to 
 
 V. NATURE OF EMPLOYMENT, 1845. 
 
 Agricultural, including Labourers and Servants. . . . 521 
 
 Domestic Servants 110 
 
 Trades 405 
 
 Mariners 55 
 
 Merchants and Storekeepers 99 
 
 Engaged in the Fisheries 300* 
 
 Medical Practitioners 13 
 
 Clergymen and Priests 6 
 
 Legal Profession 9 
 
 Other Professions and Trades 73 
 
 Employed by Government 29 
 
 Total.. . 1620 
 
 VI. EDUCATION, 1845. 
 
 Description of School. 
 
 Number of 
 Scholars. 
 
 Total 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 Boys 
 
 Girls 
 
 1 Public, Wellington... 
 1 Sunday School for ? 
 
 N 
 
 74 
 
 
 46 
 
 42 
 
 23 
 
 98 
 88 
 
 20 
 
 53 
 
 54 
 9 
 
 17 
 
 25 
 25 
 
 45 
 127 
 
 20 
 100 
 51 
 
 40 
 
 60 
 
 50 
 
 } Partly supported by 
 > the Bishop of New 
 ) Zealand. t 
 > Do. by the Wesley an 
 5 Missionary Society. 
 
 > Do. do. do. 
 
 
 I Sunday (Europeans) 
 3 Private ,, 
 1 Sunday,PoriruaKoad, J 
 (Europeans).. $ 
 
 1 Do., Hutt, do. ... 
 1 Day and Sunday, Karori 
 
 290 
 
 203 
 
 493 
 
 * Estimated proportion for Wellington. 
 
 f Under this head, between January 1, 1845, and June 30, 1847 , 
 the bishop received Government Allowances amounting to 100/., and 
 expended 84/. 18s. New Zealand Church Almanac for 1848. 
 J English language taught. 
 R2
 
 186 
 
 STATISTICS. RELIGION. 
 
 EDUCATION, 1847. (31st December). 
 
 13 Day Schools 366 Scholars. 
 
 6 Sunday 336 
 
 5 Infant 98 
 
 24 800 
 
 VII. RELIGIOUS PERSUASIONS. 1845. 
 (ADULT POPULATION.) 
 
 Denomination. 
 
 Numbers. 
 
 Clergymen's Names. 
 
 Church of England . . 
 Scotch Presbyterian. . 
 Roman Catholics .... 
 
 Wesleyans 
 
 1240 
 433 
 177 
 
 300 
 
 Rev. Robert Cole* 
 Absentf 
 Rev. J. P. O'Reilly and M. 
 Le Comte 
 Rev J Watkin and S. 
 
 Independents 
 
 04 
 
 Ironside 
 Mr. Jonas Woodward 
 
 Baptists 
 
 40 
 
 
 Hebrew Persuasion . . 
 Total 
 
 19 
 2273 
 
 
 VIII. CHURCHES. 1845.} 
 
 
 
 Number 
 
 Number 
 
 Denomination. 
 
 Building, 
 and where situated. 
 
 the Build- 
 ing will 
 
 of Persons 
 generally 
 
 
 
 contain. 
 
 attending. 
 
 Church of England 
 
 1 Church at Wellington 
 
 300 
 
 250 
 
 
 1 Chapel, Pitone .... 
 
 50 
 
 45 
 
 Presbyterian .... 
 
 1 Church, Wellington 
 
 250 
 
 150 
 
 Wesleyan 
 
 1 Chapel, do. 
 
 300 
 
 130 
 
 
 1 Do., Hntt 
 
 50 
 
 20 
 
 Independent .... 
 
 1 Do., Wellington 
 
 70 
 
 50 
 
 Roman Catholic 
 
 1 Do., do. 
 
 100 
 
 70 
 
 * Salary, yearly, 250. + (1848) Rev. John Inglis. 
 
 J In addition to these, in 1845, there were two native chapels of 
 the Church of England, one at Wellington, the other at Htone ; and
 
 ABORIGINES. 
 
 187 
 
 IX. ABORIGINAL POPULATION. 
 
 No very accurate census has been taken, nor is it easy to take, as 
 the native population is never long stationary. Two different 
 estimates may be compared. A, is that given for 1846 by Mr. 
 Grimstone, Secretary to the then Superintendent of the Southern 
 District.* B, is that made in 1841-42, and since verified and 
 corrected by Mr. Edmund Halswell, then Protector of Aborigines, 
 and therefore more likely to be correct. 
 
 Locality. 
 
 A. 
 
 B. 
 
 Te Aro \ _ tl 
 Kumutoto % 
 Pipitea j L 
 Ngahauranga 
 
 150 
 40 
 160 
 50 
 
 128 
 15 
 134 
 
 48 
 
 Pitone 
 
 150 
 
 97 
 
 Waiwetu 
 
 90 ? 
 
 
 *Hutt 
 
 350+5 
 
 59 
 
 Wairarapa 
 
 250 
 
 300 
 
 Ohariu 
 
 30 
 
 350 
 
 Porirua 
 
 181 
 
 450 
 
 
 40 
 
 150 
 
 Pari Pari 
 
 30 
 
 100 
 
 Wainui 
 
 100 
 
 100 
 
 Te Uruhi 
 
 50) 
 
 
 Wareroa 
 
 70 J 
 
 100 
 
 
 4(i!) 
 
 600 
 
 Otaki 
 
 532 
 
 400 
 
 Waikawa 
 
 118 
 
 150 
 
 Ohau 
 
 210 
 
 100 
 
 Horoweuua ........ 
 
 158 
 
 100 
 
 Manawatu 
 
 300 
 
 3400 
 
 Kangitikei 
 
 490 
 
 400 
 
 Total ...... 
 
 4087 
 
 7181 
 
 
 
 
 the chapel of the Church of England at Johnsonville already referred 
 to at page 110, which is capable of holding from 1">0 to 200 persons. 
 In the chapel at Karori (see page 98), Divine service is performed 
 on alternate Sundays, by the Wcsleyan and Independent ministers. 
 
 * In a book published by him at Wellington in 1847, called 
 " Statistics of the Southern Settlements," from which many of the 
 most valuable tables, both before and after this, have been extracted. 
 
 t These were the invading rebels, since expelled, (see page 83).
 
 188 
 
 WELLINGTON STATISTICS. 
 
 Mr. Grimstone states tbat, of these numbers, lie reckons the 
 males to amount to three-fifths ; and that half the males, or 1230 
 men, are capable of bearing arms. 
 
 Mr. Halswell's estimate amounts to 2393 fighting men.* 
 
 X. CRIME. 1844-5-6. 
 1. SUPREME COUBT. 
 
 
 Indictments. 
 
 Persons tried. 
 
 
 Sentenced 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 
 
 Year. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 o 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 j 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 z 
 
 = 1 
 
 
 
 | 
 
 I 
 
 a 
 
 & 
 
 ^ 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 
 o 
 
 P. 
 
 Q 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 
 i 
 
 E 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 fa 
 
 HH 
 
 H 
 
 H 
 
 
 H 
 
 
 M 
 
 H 
 
 ^ 
 
 1844 
 
 16 
 
 4 
 
 20 
 
 16 
 
 
 
 16 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 1845 
 
 17 
 
 5 
 
 22 
 
 20 
 
 1 
 
 21 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 1846 
 
 27 
 
 3 
 
 30 
 
 28 
 
 2 
 
 30 
 
 11 
 
 14 
 
 bt 
 
 19 
 
 Nature of Crimes, ]846. Stealing in a dwelling-house, 11 
 Stealing, 5 Burglary, 4 Larceny, 4 Piracy, 1 Assault, with 
 intent to commit a rape, 1 Rape, 1 Receiving stolen property, 2 
 Unnatural offence, 1 Escaping from Gaol, 2 Keeping a disorderly 
 house, 1. Total, 33. { 
 
 2. CASES DISPOSED OF AT THE POLICE OFFICES. 
 
 
 
 Nature. 
 
 Result. 
 
 Year. 
 
 Cases. 
 
 Against 
 Person. 
 
 Against 
 Property. 
 
 Acquitted. 
 
 Convicted. 
 
 1844 
 
 78 
 
 44 
 
 34 
 
 38 
 
 40 
 
 1845 
 
 150 
 
 67 
 
 83 
 
 85 
 
 65 
 
 1846 
 
 232 
 
 184 
 
 48 
 
 .103 
 
 129 
 
 * Appendix to Report of Lords' Committee on Emigration, 1848. 
 f One (a native) afterwards pardoned by the Governor. 
 J Including three crimes committed and tried at Nelson.
 
 CRIME. CIVIL SUITS. 
 
 ISO 
 
 XI. CIVIL CAUSES. 
 1. SUPREME COCBT.* 
 
 Plaints entered, 
 and writs of 
 
 Causes in 
 which 
 issoe 
 made np. 
 
 OMI 
 
 cr.tt r-.-i 
 for trial. 
 
 Sums med fcr, 
 
 im-rSJ^-C*^ e Ol 
 
 Suits in Equity. 
 
 
 irrespective of 
 VritofcMd . r 
 
 Fines in each 
 year. 
 
 1-44, 116 
 
 52 
 
 M 
 
 39,941 17 11 
 
 X331 17 
 
 1815, 64 
 
 21 
 
 33 
 
 11,602 15 2 
 
 239 4 6 
 
 20 
 
 11 
 
 1- 
 
 6,851 6 
 
 155 3 6 
 
 2. COCBTS OF BEQUESTS. 
 
 
 Summonses on Debts. 
 
 
 Tear. 
 
 Hot 
 exceeding 
 40ft. 
 
 i fe to ' 
 
 jo to 10. 
 
 Abore 
 10. 
 
 Total. 
 
 1MB 
 
 1M 
 
 96 
 
 65 
 
 54 
 
 350 
 
 1846 
 
 102 
 
 60 
 
 39 
 
 49 
 
 250 
 
 * This is for Wellington and Nelson together. The return does 
 not distinguish the number of cases at each. Much the larger pro- 
 portion would certainly be at Wellington.
 
 190 
 
 AGRICULTURAL STATISTICS. 
 
 XII. AGRICULTURAL RETURNS. 
 1. LAND IN CHOP, ETC. (Dec. 1847.) 
 
 
 It* 
 
 |. s _ 
 
 ^a 
 
 "S 
 
 . 
 
 ^ 
 
 ss 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 -,! 
 
 Name of Place. 
 
 S 
 
 *I 
 
 
 t% 
 
 
 II 
 
 c 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 c ^ 
 
 
 5 
 
 ~- t> 
 
 ! 
 
 <! 
 
 *5 W 
 
 4& 
 
 3 
 
 (Jj 
 
 a 
 
 
 < 
 
 *3 
 
 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 
 
 River Hutt, Lowry Bay, \ 
 and Wai Nui-o-Mata . / 
 
 9804 
 
 704 
 
 193 
 
 703 
 
 70 
 
 1283 
 
 214 
 
 200| 
 
 6844 
 
 Porirua Road 
 
 363^ 
 
 2 J A 
 
 47-f 
 
 38 
 
 B 
 
 26? 
 
 W4 
 
 136^ 
 
 279| 
 
 Kai Wara and Wade's ) 
 Town J 
 
 73 
 
 144 
 
 19 
 
 18J 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 
 994 
 
 1593 
 
 
 1993 
 
 483 
 
 60? 
 
 98 
 
 114 
 
 301 
 
 283 
 
 59 
 
 2134 
 
 Ohiro, Evans Bay, andi 
 the Town / 
 
 3654 
 
 
 20| 
 
 4 
 
 34 
 
 3 
 
 76 
 
 2314 
 
 3384 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 91 
 
 194 
 
 
 
 
 1982i 
 
 155* 
 
 3404 
 
 159* 
 
 171i 
 
 719J 
 
 1676 
 
 To tliis must be added the land cropped by the Natives round 
 the harbour; 181 acres wheat, 4 acres oats, and 200 acres of 
 potatoes. 
 
 2. ESTIMATE (BY MB. GBIMSTONE) OP LAND CLEABED BY NA- 
 TIVES (UP TO END OF 1845) IN THE WELLINGTON DlS- 
 TBICT. 
 
 Acres. 
 
 " Ohiro 165 
 
 Karori 132 
 
 Town Belt 45 
 
 Kaiwarawara 60 
 
 Harbour District and Wainui-o-mata 250 
 
 Hutt (cultivated by resident Natives) 150 
 
 Ohariu 250 
 
 Porirua District 600 
 
 Pukerua 200 
 
 Pari Pari 140 
 
 Wainui 450 
 
 Waikanae 1000 
 
 Otaki 1500 
 
 Ohau 750 
 
 Manawatu 2000 
 
 Total of Acres cleared 6692 
 
 " Of this amount, there are, between Wellington and the Mana- 
 watu, no less than 500 acres of wheat in crop by the Natives, and 
 one-third of the remainder in potatoes, &c. &c."
 
 FLOCKS AND HERDS. BUILDINGS. 
 
 191 
 
 3. LIVE STOCK OWNED BY RESIDENTS IN WELLINGTON DISTRICT, 
 AND RUNNING AT THE UNDER-MENTIONED PLACES. (Dec. 1847.) 
 
 Name of Place. 
 
 Horses. 
 
 Cattle. 
 
 Sheep. 
 
 Goats. 
 
 Asses & 
 Mules. 
 
 In the Town and outskirts. . 
 Owned by Natives in the} 
 Town . . 3 
 
 148 
 51 
 
 806 
 
 2709 
 
 251 
 
 6 
 1 
 
 
 5 
 
 81 
 
 
 42 
 
 3 
 
 
 13 
 
 154 
 
 53 
 
 28 
 
 3 
 
 Wade's Town & Kai Wara 
 Hutt District to Okiwi 
 Porirua to Manawatu 
 
 1 
 
 86 
 76 
 1 
 
 88 
 222 
 517 
 14 
 
 200 
 10 
 1760 
 1100 
 
 11 
 133 
 
 158 
 150 
 
 3 
 
 Orongorongo and the Heads 
 
 5 
 
 160 
 32 
 
 1400 
 500 
 
 38 
 
 3 
 
 
 79 
 
 1607 
 
 15 Oil 
 
 100 
 
 2 
 
 Middle Island 
 
 115 
 
 760 
 
 12,000 
 
 
 1 
 
 Imported since the above") 
 returns were taken ....$ 
 
 82 
 
 1170 
 
 1,609 
 
 
 
 
 
 662 
 
 5611 
 
 36,352 
 
 911 
 
 22 
 
 The Natives beyond the Town are owners of fifty-nine horses, 
 twelve head of cattle, and twenty sheep, which are included in the 
 above returns. 
 
 XIII. BUILDINGS IN TOWN, (end of 184r>.) 
 
 Brick Houses 50 
 
 Wooden Do 417 
 
 Clay Do 213 
 
 Stores (mostly brick) 38 
 
 Public Houses 12 
 
 Buildings not included in the above account: Six 
 places of Public Worship (two of brick), one Gaol 
 (brick), one Bank, one Custom-house, one Post-office, 
 two Barracks (one of brick,) and two Flour-mills (one a 
 Windmill, and the other worked by Steam), each with 
 one pair of stones. There is also a small Factory, with 
 six hand-looms, for weaving the fibre of the Phormium 
 tenax into coarse sacking, for which there is a con- 
 siderable demand at Sydney, as well as on the spot. 
 There are also several rope-walks, which work up the 
 same material; several well-managed brick-kilns, and 
 a lime-kiln; two or three small tanneries; and a candle- 
 manufactory.
 
 192 
 
 COMMERCIAL STATISTICS. 
 
 XIV. PORT OF WELLINGTON. 
 1. IMPORTS AND EXPORTS. 
 
 
 Value. 
 
 Beyond Seas. 
 
 Coastwise. 
 
 Year. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Imports. 
 
 Exports. 
 
 Inwards. 
 
 Outwards. 
 
 In- 
 wards 
 
 Out- 
 wards. 
 
 
 s. d. 
 
 s. d. 
 
 Sh : ps 
 
 Tons. 
 
 Ships 
 
 Tons. 
 
 Tons. 
 
 Tons. 
 
 !841 
 
 53,626 10 
 
 14,447 
 
 74 
 
 18,922 
 
 48 
 
 13,518 
 
 9,141 
 
 11,510 
 
 1842 
 
 112,592 7 7 
 
 12,156 
 
 80 
 
 17,337 
 
 75 
 
 16,714 
 
 10,996 
 
 13,1 17 
 
 1843 
 
 87,885 5 10 
 
 29,059 
 
 41 
 
 9,020 
 
 51 
 
 10,899 
 
 10,679 
 
 10,315 
 
 1844 
 
 36,175 5 
 
 30,273 2 6 
 
 44 
 
 6,899 
 
 44 
 
 6,899 
 
 8,285 
 
 9,188 
 
 1845 
 
 43,221 2 10 
 
 26,614 1 6 
 
 40 
 
 5,382 
 
 40 
 
 5,382 
 
 6,464 
 
 6,956 
 
 1846 
 
 59,415 2 2 
 
 31,281 
 
 47 
 
 8,362 
 
 44 
 
 7,326 
 
 5,948 
 
 6,847 
 
 1847 
 
 * 
 
 
 57 
 
 11,295 
 
 48 
 
 9,658 
 
 8,142 
 
 8,721 
 
 Totals 
 
 392,915 4 3143,830 4 
 
 383 
 
 77,217 
 
 350 
 
 70,396 
 
 59,655 66,684 
 
 2. VESSELS REGISTERED. 
 
 Year. Number. 
 1841 2 
 1842 9 
 1843 ....V. 2 
 1844 4 
 1845 ... 5 
 
 Tonnage. 
 32 
 138 
 , 71 
 , fil 
 98 
 
 1846 
 
 
 1847 7f . 
 
 322 
 
 * No return yet made. 
 
 t Of tbese, one of 120 tons was built at Jacob's River, in Foveaux's 
 Strait, and another of 105 tons at Port Nicholson. The former, 
 with another vessel about the same size, brought from Sydney, nre 
 fitted out from Wellington for the whale-fishery.
 
 OIL AND WHALEBONE. 
 
 193 
 
 3. SHORE FISHERIES DEPENDING ON THE PORT. 
 A. Season ended Nov. 30, 184.7. 
 
 Name of Station. 
 
 Owner of 
 Station. 
 
 Tuns of 
 Black 
 Oil. 
 
 Tons of 
 Whale- 
 bone. 
 
 No. of 
 Boats. 
 
 No. of 
 Men. 
 
 Middle liland (east coast). 
 
 Price 
 
 tuns gall. 
 65 
 
 tons cwt. 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 27 
 
 
 Wetherell. . 
 Woods 
 
 53 
 
 2 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 18 
 
 Moerangi 
 
 Hughes .... 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 1C 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 Island Bay 
 
 Rhodes .... 
 
 30 
 S3 
 
 15 
 12 
 
 2 
 3 
 
 18 
 30 
 
 
 
 45 
 
 1 7 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 Cook's Strait. Cloudy Bay 
 Queen Charlotte Sound 
 
 Kapiti ....". '.'.'.'.'.'. 
 Koroiwa (near Mana) . . 
 Taranaki 
 
 Fyfe 
 Doherty . . 
 Guard .... 
 Thorns 
 Gillett .... 
 Wilson 
 Brown .... 
 
 35* 
 4 CO 
 
 22" 
 19 
 10 
 8 
 
 1 10 
 2 
 
 "10 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 8 
 
 3 
 3 
 
 2 
 2 
 2 
 1 
 2 
 
 30 
 38 
 14 
 14 
 16 
 8 
 15 
 
 East Coast, Hawke's Bay 
 and its vicinity. 
 Cape Kidnapper 
 
 Rundell . . 
 
 Morris .... 
 
 18 
 24 
 
 12 
 18 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 20 
 18 
 
 Waikokopu 
 
 Morrison . . 
 
 28 
 12 
 
 1 9 
 5 
 
 3 
 3 
 
 20 
 20 
 
 Long Point 
 
 Ellis 
 Mansfield 
 
 38 
 
 2G 
 
 18 
 13 
 
 3 
 3 
 
 20 
 20 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 460 CO 
 
 15 9 
 
 51 
 
 408 
 
 * 7 tuns sperm oil also taken. 
 B. Summary of Five Years. 
 
 Year. 
 
 Tuns 
 Oil. 
 
 Tons 
 Bone. 
 
 No. of Men 
 employed. 
 
 No. of Boats 
 employed. 
 
 REMAKES. 
 
 1843 
 1844 
 1845a 
 18466 
 1847C 
 
 Totals 
 
 1,289 
 1,130 
 970 
 
 8184 
 4674 
 
 65 
 48 
 36 : 10 
 28 : 8 
 15: 9 
 
 7G8 
 673 
 774 
 618 
 408 
 
 91 
 85 
 91 
 C9 
 51 
 
 a Of this 33 tuns were 
 sperm. 
 b Do. 13 do. do. 
 c Do. 7 do. do. 
 The proportion for the 
 former years cannot ac- 
 curately be ascertained. 
 
 4,675 
 
 193: 7 
 
 
 During these five years, the value of this produce at 
 "Wellington has varied thus : 
 
 Black Oil, from 10 to L") per tun. 
 
 Sperm ft 2 00 
 
 Whalebone 140 110 ton. 
 
 S
 
 194 DUTIES AND TAXES. 
 
 The total value for the five years, may therefore be 
 fairly estimated at 100,0007. 
 
 4. CUSTOMS' DUTIES,* 1848. 
 
 British Spirits 5*. per gallon. 
 
 Foreign Spirits 5s. per gallon. 
 
 Cigars, Cheroots, and Snuff 2s. per Ib. 
 
 Tobacco, manufactured Is. per Ib. 
 
 unmanufactured Qd. per Ib. 
 
 On all guns, or weapons of any description, gun- ) . 
 
 powder, shot, lead, or munitions of war j ' 
 
 Wines 20 per cent. 
 
 Ale, beer, porter, cider and perry 15 per cent. 
 
 On all other goods, wares, and merchandise, of Bri- \ , 
 
 tish produce or manufacture } 
 
 On all other goods, wares, and merchandise, ofKni 
 
 Foreign produce or manufacture J 
 
 Free of Duty. 
 
 Glass bottles, imported full. 
 
 Bullion and coin. 
 
 Horses, mules, asses, sheep, cattle, and all other live animals. 
 
 Seeds, bulbs, and plants. 
 
 Printed hooks, (not being account books.) 
 
 Spirits and Tobacco under Bond at Wellington, 
 January 1, 1848: Brandy, 5892 gallons; Kum, 
 10,196 do.; Gin, 3018 do; Whisky, 91 do.; Liqueurs, 
 6 do. ; Tobacco, manufactured, 50,686 Ibs. ; ditto, unma- 
 nufactured, 3660 Ibs. 
 
 XV. FEES IN THE NATURE OF TAXES. 
 
 A Fee of Forty Pounds sterling per annum is 
 demanded for an Auctioneer's Licence, under the 
 Ordinance of Council, No. 10, of Session III., 1844. 
 
 For every Publican's Licence Thirty Pounds sterling 
 per annum, authorized by the 14th clause of the 
 
 * Levied under an Ordinance of the Legislative Council of New 
 Zealand, No. 14, of Session VII., 1840. 
 
 f The importation of gunpowder, or any munition of war, except 
 under certain restrictions therein set forth, is forbidden by Ordinance 
 No. 1, of Session VI., 1845, still in operation.
 
 GOVERNMENT FINANCE. 195 
 
 Ordinance of Council, No. 12, of Session II., 1842. 
 Provisional Licences granted by any two Justices of 
 the Peace in a new Settlement, Forty Pounds sterling 
 per annum, authorized by the 33rd clause of same 
 Ordinance. 
 
 Under the Amended Licensing Ordinance, Session 
 III., No. 21, 1844, "Bush Licences" are granted for 
 the convenience of Travellers, at rates fixed by the 
 Governor and Executive Council, according to the 
 traffic of the place. 
 
 A Fee of Twenty Shillings is demanded on the issue 
 of a Crown Grant, under the authority of the " Fees on 
 Crotcn Grants Ordinance" No. 11, of Session VII., 
 1846. 
 
 Fees are also authorized by various Ordinances to be 
 levied on transactions in the Courts of Justice or 
 Sheriff's Office, and in the Land Claims Office, and on 
 the Registration of Deeds. 
 
 XVI. GOVERNMENT REVENUE & EXPENDITURE, 1846.* 
 
 RECEIPTS. 
 
 Ordinary. s. d. 
 
 Customs 650910 5 
 
 Fees and Fines of Supreme Court 165 4 
 
 Police 98 13 
 
 Fees of the Court of Requests* 
 
 Fees on the Registration of Deeds 25 4 
 
 Fees on the issue of Crown Grants 36 10 6 
 
 Droits of the Crown 6 3 6 
 
 Publicans' Licences 4GO 13 5 
 
 Auctioneers' do 160 
 
 Property Rate (arrears) 7 
 
 Total Ordinary 74r,-> :! .> 
 
 * For Accounts of Revenue and Expenditure daring 1847, and 
 of Revenue since 1840, see Appendix B. 
 
 + The Feea are retained by the Commissioner under special 
 authority.
 
 196 GOVERNMENT REVENUE 
 
 RECEIPTS continued. 
 
 Incidental. s. d. 
 
 Surcharges recovered 17 15 1 
 
 Balance of advances made to officers under Imprest 1 ">;"> 8 1 
 
 Total Incidental 173 3 2 
 
 In aid of Revenue. 
 
 Remittances from Colonial Treasurer 4000 
 
 Repayment by Police Magistrate at Akaroa, of a sum 
 
 remitted him in excess of amount required to 
 
 meet expenses of department 100 
 
 Proceeds of Bills drawn by the Lieutenant-Governor 
 
 on the British Treasury 17,500 
 
 Special Debenture Certificates received from Colonial 
 
 Treasurer 71 1 
 
 Total in aid of Revenue 21,671 1 
 
 Total Receipts 29,306 ( 
 
 DISBURSEMENTS. 
 
 Civil Establishment. s. d. 
 
 Estab. of his Excellency Lieutenant Governor .... 0560 
 
 Dep. of his Hon. the Superintendent 1036 10 9 
 
 the Sub-Treasurer 126 11 3 
 
 Customs 584 4 3 
 
 Harbour Master 310 11 1 
 
 Medical Officer 160 
 
 Assistant- Surveyor 458 4 
 
 Protector of Aborigines 177 14 10 
 
 Government Brig " Victoria" 190 8 7 
 
 Total Civil 3115 10 9 
 
 Judicial. 
 
 Supreme Court 1383 19 7 
 
 Sheriff and Gaols 565 14 8 
 
 Courts of Requests '.' 209 
 
 Registrar of Deeds 46 16 1 
 
 Coroners 24 6 
 
 Police 3382 11 11 
 
 Crown Prosecutions and Witnesses 74 17 
 
 Total Judicial . .... 5746 1'J 9
 
 AN 7 D EXPENDITURE. 197 
 
 DISBURSEMENTS continued. 
 
 Public Works and Buildings. ^ g ^ 
 
 Erecting powder magazine cm Mount Cook 
 
 Towards erection of Native Hospital 150 < 
 
 Porirua Barracks 600 
 
 Roads and Bridges 4840 
 
 Total Works and Buildings 5668 15 
 
 Militia and Works of Defence 4465 10 
 
 Miscellaneous. 
 Advances to bis Honour the Superintendent for 
 
 defraying petty expenses 294 16 
 
 Interpreters 177 6 
 
 Surcharges repaid 
 
 Stationery, Printiug, and Office Furniture 179 9 6 
 
 Travelling expenses to officers on special duty .... 
 
 Commissicfii on negotiation of Treasury Bills .... 875 
 
 Presents to Natives 125 9 6 
 
 Supplies to persons plundered on the Hutt 108 1 10 
 
 Purchase, &c., gun boat for Porirua Harbour .... 100 17 11 
 
 Repayment excess Property-rate levied 3 10 
 
 advances by Union Bank of Australia .. 216 
 
 surcharge Spirit Licence 10 
 
 Purchase of Land for Natives in exchange for culti- 
 vations on the river Hutt 350 
 
 Interest paid on Funded Debentures 31 18 5 
 
 Cash Balance (being one-fourth) paid in exchange 
 
 of old for Funded Debentures 1138 16 3 
 
 Gratuity to military mess, Porirua, for messing civil 
 
 officers 50 
 
 Advances in aid of other Sub-treasuries 2810 4 7 
 
 Military Chest *1000 
 
 Debenture Certificates issued 37 17 1 
 
 Total Miscellaneous 7564 8 3 
 
 Total Disbursements 30,561 4 
 
 The above Statement includes the arrears of previous years. 
 It also includes the Receipts and Disbursements of " Petre." See 
 next Chapter. 
 
 There are three Cemeteries, all in most picturesque 
 situations, and remote from any part of the town where 
 
 * Repaid by the Commissariat to the Auckland Treasury. 
 s2
 
 198 CEMETERIES. BANK. 
 
 many dwellings are likely to be erected. The largest 
 the Cemetery used by all Protestants, both White and 
 Native. The Roman Catholics and the Jews have 
 each a separate piece of ground allotted for the burial 
 of their dead. 
 
 There is a Mechanics' Institute, which is well sup- 
 ported, has a tolerable Library and collection of scien- 
 tific articles, and occasionally is well attended, to hear 
 a lecture from some of the more learned Colonists. 
 
 A Branch of the Union Bank of Australia affords 
 some assistance in the transaction of money affairs, and 
 supplies the paper currency of the Settlements. In a 
 succeeding Chapter, there is a short account of the 
 manner in which this company, having a complete 
 monopoly of such business, manages its affairs in New 
 Zealand. The office is at a neat wooden house in 
 Manners-street. The present manager is Mr. A. Mac- 
 donald. 
 
 There is also a Savings Bank, which has been in 
 operation for two or three years, and is managed by 
 Directors, consisting of the principal Colonists of all 
 classes. 
 
 STATEMENT OF THE WELLINGTON SAVINGS BANK, JULY 5, to 
 OCTOBEB 4, 1847: 
 
 Number of accounts brought forward 99 
 
 opened during the above period, 1!) 
 
 118 
 Number of accounts closed during the above period, 12 
 
 Carried forward 100 
 
 58 accounts have been opened by individuals (seven 
 of them being aborigines') which 58 accounts 
 
 now amount to the sum of .751 4 8 
 
 40 accounts have been opened by parties in trust for 
 
 others in the sum of 208 10 3 
 
 8 accounts have been opened for public funds in the 
 names of friendly and benevolent societies, &c., 
 in the sum of 288 16 7 
 
 100 1248 11 G
 
 SAVINGS BANK. 
 
 199 
 
 STATEMENT OF WELLINGTON SAVINGS BASK continued. 
 
 Assets of the Bank. 
 Debentures on Land bearing 8 per cent, interest, 
 
 reckoned at par 1242 3 9 
 
 in Union Bank of Australia 192 14 
 
 1434 18 3 
 Deduct liabilities as above . . 1248 11 7 
 
 Nominal balance in favour of the bank 186 6 9 
 
 E. and O. E. 
 TTeUi>iyt<ni, Oct. 4, 1*17. (Signed) J. WOODWABD, Actuary. 
 
 BALANCE SHEET OF THE WELLINGTON SAVINGS BANK FOB THE 
 
 QUARTER ENDING OCT. 4, 1*47. 
 Dr. 
 To balance of deposits as 
 
 per last 'report 1178 16 11 
 
 ,, amount of weekly de- 
 posits received as 
 under : 
 
 1 > i^ . July 12, week end- 
 ing this dav 
 19 
 86 
 
 Aug. 
 
 Sept. 
 
 2 
 9 
 
 16 
 28 
 
 30 
 
 6 
 
 13 
 
 20 
 
 Oct. 4 
 
 Interest added to various 
 
 anionuts withdrawn . . 
 
 '->7 
 
 5 
 
 (i 
 
 7 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 24 
 
 18 
 
 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 1) 
 
 43 
 
 8 
 
 (i 
 
 59 
 
 4 
 
 1) 
 
 90 
 
 8 
 
 (i 
 
 18 
 
 
 
 1) 
 
 33 
 
 5 
 
 II 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 (1 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 (i 
 
 380 
 
 2<i4 17 
 
 To balance of interest as per last report 3 10 
 Less amount added to accounts with- 
 drawn 3 8 
 
 1443 13 II 
 
 080 
 
 1444 1 11
 
 200 EXCHANGE. HOTELS. 
 
 BALANCE SHEET or WELLINGTON SAVINGS BANK continued. 
 
 Or. 
 
 By amounts withdrawn as under : 
 1817. July 26, week end- 
 ing this day 22 2 10 
 
 Aug. 2 134 16 5 
 
 16 
 
 30 
 
 Sept. 20 
 Oct. 4 
 
 1 10 
 
 300 
 11 3 
 
 22 10 2 
 
 195 2 5 
 
 Nominal Value. Cost. 
 
 By funded debentures 011 hand 
 
 as per last report . . 1342 3 9 1150 
 
 Less 2 deposited in Co- 
 lonial Treasury against 
 cash received by autho- 
 rity from the Governor 100 100 
 
 1050 
 
 By charges paid Actuary 
 
 one quarter 650 
 
 By cash in Union Bank 
 
 of Australia 192 14 6 
 
 1242 3 9 1444 1 11 
 
 (Signed) GEO. MOORE, 
 
 GEO. ~ 
 
 A wooden, building near the Bank, erected by sub- 
 scription, is called the Exchange. The newspapers of 
 the neighbouring Colonies are to be found there; but 
 except for public meetings, balls, or horticultural shows, 
 the building is rarely used. The Council of the first 
 Wellington Corporation used to meet in it, in the years 
 1842-3. 
 
 There are two or three Hotels, in which very good 
 accommodation is to be had. The principal one is 
 " Barrett's," a large wooden two-storied house, opposite 
 the Public Jetty, and in the centre of the town. 
 Attached to this Hotel, is a roomy, well-fitted sub- 
 scription billiard-room, and a large apartment above, 
 used for balls, and the meetings of the Freemasons' 
 Lodge.
 
 SHOPS. LAWYERS. 201 
 
 At the Te Aro, or southern end of the town, is the 
 " Ship," a tolerably good Hotel. There are several other 
 Taverns and public-houses scattered along the main 
 thoroughfares. At one of these a Lodge of Odd Fel- 
 lows meets; at another, Jenkins's "New Zealander," 
 there are livery stables. 
 
 Besides the Stores of the wholesale merchants, there 
 are many miscellaneous shops, in which almost any- 
 thing may be bought. A few, however, confine 
 themselves to a distinct business; such as butchers, 
 bakers, fishmongers, (who also deal in greengrocery,) 
 plumbers and glaziers, tailors, shoemakers, carpenters, 
 and blacksmiths. There is also a hair-cutter and per- 
 fumer, a watch-maker, a shop for grocery on one side 
 and haberdashery on the other, and there was, not long 
 ago, a cigar shop. But the great show-shop of the 
 young town has long been " Medical Hall," which 
 parades its red and blue bottles, vases of tooth-brushes, 
 and heaps of sponges, phials, mortars, and hieroglyphic 
 labels. The visitor is supplied, too, with excellent 
 soda water, made on the premises, and the windows are 
 filled with Cockney puffs of ointments and horse medi- 
 cines. The doctor's shop being opposite the Public 
 Jetty, and situated between the principal Hotel and 
 the Garrison Mess-room, is a lounge much frequented 
 by the few idlers of the town, and by the rural resi- 
 dents on their necessary visits. 
 
 A wooden building, near the Jetty, is used for the 
 purposes of the Law Courts. In New Zealand, both 
 barristers and solicitors are allowed to combine the busi- 
 ness of those two separate professions in England. The 
 gentlemen so acting at Wellington in March, 1848, 
 were Messrs. Brandon, Cheesman, Fox (Attorney- 
 General), Hart, King, Ross, and D. Wakefield (Crown 
 Solicitor and Counsel for the natives). 
 
 A Horticultural Society has been established since 
 1841 ; which receives seeds of the best kinds from that 
 of London, and distributes them among its members.
 
 202 ANNIVERSARY. NEWSPAPERS. 
 
 This Society also holds shows of fruits, flowers, and 
 vegetables, every three months, and gives small prizes 
 for excellence in these as well as in the cultivation of 
 cottagers' gardens. Its officers are as follows: Patron 
 The Bishop of New Zealand ; President Colonel 
 Wakefield ; Secretary J. E. Featherstone, M. D. ; 
 Treasurer B. Stokes. 
 
 The Garrison Mess-room, formerly the house of the 
 Wakefield Club, stands on the beach road, close to Bar- 
 rett's Hotel and Medical Hall. 
 
 There is a very good Cricket Club at Wellington; 
 and this really English game is carried on with great 
 vigour, the different distinctions of civilians, military, 
 officials, &c., affording some emulation in matches. 
 
 A festival is held at Wellington on or about the 
 22nd January in each year, to commemorate the Anni- 
 versary of the day on which the first Colonists landed 
 at Pitone. A subscription is entered into a few weeks 
 previous to the day: a committee is appointed to ex- 
 pend the fund, and prizes are given for horse and foot 
 races, rifle-shooting, wrestling, and other rural sports; 
 rowing and sailing matches, &c. ; and one or two pub- 
 lic balls are given on this and the succeeding days. A 
 feast of rice and sugar, or something of the kind, and 
 prizes for canoe and horse-racing, are also provided for 
 the natives resident in the town and neighbourhood. 
 
 Two Newspapers are published, each twice a-week. 
 These are the " Wellington Spectator and Cook's 
 Strait Guardian" and the " Wellington Independent" 
 At the two printing-offices, stationery of every kind is 
 sold. At the office of the former newspaper has been 
 published yearly, since 1843, the " Cook's Strait Al- 
 manac" from which numerous extracts have been 
 made in this book. The following were the contents 
 of the 1848 number: 
 
 " Preface, Signal Station, Duties, Principal Articles of the Ca- 
 lendar, Almanack, Gardeners' Calendar, Latitude, Longitude, &c., 
 of Port Nicholson and Nelson, Table of Port Establishment of the
 
 POSTAL ARRANGEMENTS. 208 
 
 principal Harbours, &c., of New Zealand, Table for finding High- 
 water, Right Ascension, Declination, and Meridian passage of the 
 principal Stars in the Southern Hemisphere, Eclipses, New Zea- 
 land Itinerary, List of Whaling Stations, List of Ordinances passed 
 in 1-A7, Principal Occurrences of 1847, Military and Naval Direc- 
 tory, Directory for the Southern Settlements, Weather Table, &c., 
 Statistics, ! 
 
 A few numbers are published in London by Longman 
 and Co., of Paternoster-row. 
 
 The Postal arrangements for New Zealand are ex- 
 ceedingly imperfect, in consequence of the general de- 
 fectiveness of our regulations for Maritime and Colo- 
 nial postage, and also of the absence of any regular 
 packets between New Zealand and any other part of 
 the world. To and from England direct, however, the 
 greater number of ships arrive at or depart from Wel- 
 lington ; and these, although varying in regularity with 
 the progress of emigration and of commerce, afford the 
 most certain mode of conveyance. Next best, is to 
 send letters via Sydney, between which port and Lon- 
 don there is a regular line of mail packets (sailing- 
 vessels). The letters have still to find their way as 
 they best can between Sydney and any port in New 
 Zealand. Letters sent from New Zealand to the ports 
 of India by vessels happening to sail thither, generally 
 arrive in England safely and expeditiously by the 
 Overland Mail; but letters cannot be sent by that 
 route from England, as there are no arrangements for 
 forwarding mails from India to the Australian Colo- 
 nies. A similar facility exists in favour of letters sent 
 from New Zealand to England via Valparaiso; but 
 these must be directed to the care of some agent at the 
 latter place; as our Consul there is in no way em- 
 powered to facilitate and enforce the sending on of any 
 mail-bag by the Steamers to Panama. On the con- 
 trary, the master of the ship may, if he chooses, keep 
 the mail-bag for months on the coast of South America, 
 and take it round Cape Horn after all. It would be 
 almost hopeless to send a letter to New Zealand riu
 
 204 POST-OFFICE. OMNIBUS. 
 
 Panama and Valparaiso ; because, owing to the pre- 
 valence of the westerly winds in the Southern Hemi- 
 sphere, comparatively few sailing vessels return to the 
 eastward, and those that do are obliged to shape a very 
 circuitous course. The mails between the different ports 
 of New Zealand are carried, from time to time, by such 
 vessels as happen to be sailing; and the only regular 
 mail yet established is one which is carried every fort- 
 night over-land, partly by the patrols of the mounted 
 police, and partly by natives, between Wellington and 
 Auckland, by way of Petre and New Plymouth. 
 
 Owing to all these irregularities, the cost of sending 
 a letter from England to any part of New Zealand is 
 composed of one or more of a number of varying 
 rates, such as the ship-letter rate, for one or two 
 voyages as the case may be; the Colonial rate of 
 India, or of some other Colony through which the 
 letter may have passed; the Overland Mail rate; and 
 lastly, the local postage rate in New Zealand. An 
 ordinary ship-letter, carried the whole distance from 
 London to Wellington in the same private ship, is 
 charged at the enormous rate of eight-pence at each 
 end, or one shilling and four-pence in the whole for 
 every half-ounce weight. Newspapers are also charged 
 at this rate by private ships, and this charge amounts 
 to a virtual prohibition of them in the Colony. At one 
 time piles of English newspapers used to lie in the 
 post-office in Wellington, the postage remaining un- 
 paid by those to whom they were directed; now they 
 are sent as parcels. It seems strange, that with a pos- 
 tage system in England of which we are so justly 
 proud, the conveyance of letters from England to her 
 Colonies, and between the Colonies themselves, should 
 be so grossly mismanaged. 
 
 An Omnibus was started early in 1 847, to run twice 
 a week from the Ship Hotel at Te Aro, Wellington, to 
 Aglionby and back. The distance is about nine miles; 
 the fare either way was four shillings,
 
 WELLINGTON DIRECTORY. 205 
 
 The following is a brief Directory for "Wellington on 
 some points not above mentioned: 
 
 Lieu tenant- Governor of New 
 
 M, ta ter 
 
 Private Secretary TV". Gjsborne, Esq. 
 
 Native Secretary H. T. Kemp, Esq. 
 
 Colonial Secretary * Alfred Domett, Esq. 
 
 Treasurer and Re-\ , TT TT -wr T> * 
 " . , *Hon. H. W. Petre. 
 
 carer (jreneral J 
 
 Officer Commanding Troops... Lieut. Colonel W. A. 
 
 M'Cleverty. 
 Judge of Supreme Court H. S. Chapman, Esq. 
 
 Registrar do. & Commissioner ) r> T> o* -c 
 
 f f T, > R. R. Strang, Esq. 
 
 of Court of Requests ... J 
 
 Attorney" General William Fox, Esq. 
 
 Crown Solicitor, and Legal'} 
 
 Adviser and Standing /- Daniel Wakefield, Esq. 
 Counsel for the Natives ) 
 
 Sheriff fy Resident Magistrate Henry St. Hill, Esq. 
 
 Justices of the Peace Lieut. Colonel "W. A. 
 
 M'Cleverty; Lieut. Col. C. E. Gold, commanding 
 65th regt. ; Major J. Patience, 65th regt. ; Major 
 A. F. "W. Wyatt, 65th regt. ; Major C. A. Arney, 
 58th regt.; Captain G. F. Murray, 65th regt.; 
 Captain A. H. Russell, 58th regt. ; Henry St. Hill, 
 Esq.; The Hon. H. W. Petre;" P. D. Hogg, R. R. 
 Strang, A. E. M'Donogh, D. S. Durie, A. R. 
 Chetham Strode, H. T. Kemp, W. Wakefield, C. 
 Clifford, W. M. Smith, W. Swainson, F.R.S., 
 E. Daniell, A. M'Donald, R. Baker, W. Hickson, 
 W. Fitzherbert, A. Ludlam, A. Hort, A. Domett, 
 and W. Fox, Esqs. 
 
 Inspector of Police D. S. Durie, Esq. 
 
 Jh'jiufy do. A. Chetham Strode,Esq. 
 
 Cnrcnuiicnt Surveyor T. Fitzgerald, Esq. 
 
 * Members of Executive Council, 
 T
 
 206 WELLINGTON HOSPITAL. 
 
 Collector of Customs P. D. Hogg. Esq. 
 
 Coroner and Colonial Surgeon J.Fitzgerald, Esq.,M.D. 
 
 Postmaster J. Hoggard, Esq. 
 
 Harbour-Master Charles Sharp, Esq. 
 
 Principal Agent of the New 
 
 Zealand Company Col. "W. Wakefield. 
 
 Accountant to do. J. Kelham, Esq. 
 
 There are, besides the Colonial surgeon, two prac- 
 titioners with the degree of M.D., and three others. 
 
 The Colonial Hospital at Wellington was opened on 
 the 15th of September, 1847. The building is two 
 stories high, of brick plastered with Roman cement out- 
 side, the plan being made for the addition of two large 
 wings. It is now capable of holding fourteen, or in 
 case of emergency, eighteen patients. From the date 
 of opening up to the 19th of January, 1848, thirty-one 
 patients were admitted, of whom eight were Europeans, 
 and twenty-three natives. Of these, two Europeans 
 and three natives died; two Europeans and fourteen 
 natives (one since dead) were discharged cured. Seventy 
 native and eight European out-patients also received 
 medical treatment during the same space of time; of 
 whom one, a native child, died, and sixty-one were 
 cured. Dr. Fitzgerald, at the end of his very interest- 
 ing Official report* on the 21st of January, 1848, says, 
 in a note: 
 
 " The fevers amongst the natives do not appear to be of a conta- 
 gious character, but generally the effect of inflammatory action in 
 some part of the body. There are very few cases amongst the white 
 
 people With the exception of the late prevailing epidemic, 
 
 influenza, and subsequently hooping cough, this climate is, generally 
 speaking, healthy for Europeans. The amount and nature of the 
 diseases amongst the native population is no criterion of the climate 
 as regards the white people, for there are causes operating among 
 the natives which fully explain the difference of effect on the two 
 populations." 
 
 * New Zealand Government Gazette, (Province of New Minister,) 
 vol. i. No. 7, Feb. 2nd, 1848, page 31.
 
 MILITARY. NAVAL. 207 
 
 There are twelve Mercantile Firms, one Custom- 
 house Agent, and four Auctioneers. 
 
 The New Zealand Pacific Lodge of Freemasons, 
 No. 758, under the Grand Lodge of England, holds its 
 meetings on the third Wednesday in every month, at 
 the Masonic Hall, adjoining Barrett's Hotel. 
 
 The Independent Order of Odd Fellows, Manchester 
 Unity, Britannia Lodge, holds meetings on every Mon- 
 day evening. 
 
 The Loyal Antipodean [Lodge holds meetings on 
 every "Wednesday evening. 
 
 MILITARY. 
 
 The Commandcr-in-Chief, His Excellency Major-General G. D. 
 Pitt, K. H., resides at Auckland. 
 
 Officer Commanding the Troops in the Province of New Munster, 
 Lieutenant-Colonel W. A. M'Cleverty, who is also Deputy-Quarter- 
 Ufaster-Generai- 
 
 Major of Brigade, Captain E. M. O'Connell, 99th regiment. 
 
 There is a Staff-surgeon at Wellington ; and a Staff-assistant 
 surgeon at Wanganui.* 
 
 There are two Deputy-assistant-commissary generals at Welling- 
 ton, and one at Wanganui. 
 
 There are also a captain and lieutenant of the Royal Artillery, a 
 captain of Eoyal Engineers, and a clerk of the Ordnance Department, 
 quartered in the province of New Munster. 
 
 The head-quarters of the 65th regiment, Lieut.-Col. C. E. Gold 
 commanding, are at Wellington, and also a detachment of the 58th 
 regiment, under the command of Major C. A. Arncy. 
 
 There are detachments of both regiments at Wanganui, under the 
 command of Major A. F. W. Wyatt, Goth regiment; and also at the 
 different stockades at Porirua and in the valley of the Hutt. 
 
 The precise number of men composing these garrisons is not 
 known: probably from 800 to 1000. 
 
 NAVAL. 
 
 New Zealand has been recently made a separate Naval Station. 
 Captain Erskine has been appointed to its command, and is now 
 on his way thither in the Havana, 22 guns. It is supposed 
 that Auckland will be made the head-quarters of the Naval Station; 
 but at least one man-of-war is generally stationed at Wellington. 
 
 * See next Chapter.
 
 208 WANGANUI DISTRICT. 
 
 The other meii-of-war on the station in March, 18-48, were the 
 following: 
 
 H. M. Steamer Inflexible, 6 guns, Commander J. C. Hoseason. 
 Gone to Bombay to be docked, but will be replaced by another 
 steamer from the East Indian Station. 
 
 H. M. S. Dido, 26 guns, Captain John Balfour Maxwell. At 
 Auckland. 
 
 H. M. S. Calliope, 26 guns, Captain Edward Stanley. At 
 Auckland. 
 
 II. M. S. Racehorse, 18 guns, Commander E. Sotheby. At 
 Wellington. 
 
 H. M. Steamer Acheron, Captain E. Lort Stokes, is on her way 
 to New Zealand, via Madeira, Cape of Good Hope, Western Australia, 
 and Sydney, for the purpose of making a complete marine survey of 
 the coasts of New Zealand. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Coast, Country, and Elvers. N.W. of Wellington District. Wan- 
 ganui River. Sailing Directions. Rural District. Town of 
 Pet re. Statistics. Native Rebellion. Climate. Hams and 
 Bacon. Native Population. Coal. Inland Navigation. 
 Foot-paths. Garrison. 
 
 BEYOND the North-western corner of what has been 
 described, at the beginning of the last Chapter, as the 
 Wellington district, the sandy beach, backed by a 
 broad belt of level, or gently undulating, and fertile 
 country, continues to trend to the N.W. towards Cape 
 Egmont. This belt attains its greatest breadth in that 
 part of it which is watered by the river Rangitikei 
 and its tributaries. Seventeen miles N.W. of the 
 mouth of that river, the Turakina river, fordable at 
 low water, flows into the sea; and three miles further 
 on, the Wangaihu, also fordable at low water. This 
 last river has its source in the S.E. side of the Ruapehu 
 mountain, and thus waters a considerable tract of 
 country. 
 
 The country between the Manawatu and the Wan-
 
 RIVER. SAILING DIRECTIONS. 209 
 
 gaihu is generally of the most rich and fertile character, 
 including large tracts of heavily-timbered land, as well 
 as a great extent of grassy pasture land. 
 
 Nine miles beyond the Wangaihu is the mouth of 
 the Wanganui river. This river has its source on the 
 N.W. side of the Tonga Riro mountain, and flows 
 along a bed of about 200 miles in length, in the course 
 of which it is swollen by several considerable tribu- 
 taries. 
 
 The following sailing directions are extracted from 
 the Cook's Strait Almanac for 1 846 : 
 
 " RIVER WANGAXUI (Heads) ; S. lat. 30 57' 19"; E. long. 175 
 2' 8" ; T. of H. W. F. and C. 10 hr. 20min. ; Sp. rise ! ft. 
 
 " From 5 to 8 feet water in the channel over the bar at low-water 
 spring tides ; between the heads, 5 to 14 feet : the Bluff called the 
 ' Landguard' is on the south bank of the river, two miles from the 
 heads ; about half a mile above the lower end of it the water shal- 
 lows, but deepens soon after; the Town of Petre is four miles 
 from the heads ; abreast of the town there is from 8 to 24 feet water 
 at low-water spring tides ; and under Shakspeare's Cliff, opposite the 
 town, 30 to 41 feet. 
 
 " Vessels coming from Kapiti (Entry Island) must steer N. by 
 W. for fifty-five miles ; on making the land, the Landguard is the 
 most prominent object as a dark steep bluff; on nearing the shore, 
 the Cliffs, one mile to the N.W. of the heads, will be seen ; also the 
 Castle Cliff and Beacon. Taupiri, or the Devil's Thumb, (the 
 highest mountain visible in that direction except Tongariro, and ap- 
 pearing as a double hump,) and Tongariro, are in a line with the 
 heads, bearing N. 19 12' E. 
 
 " As the bar is a shifting one, vessels must look out for smooth 
 water to enter in." 
 
 The Clydeside, a barque of 250 tons burthen, en- 
 tered the river in 1841; and, though she was run 
 aground through not keeping in the right channel, she 
 both entered and went out again without the slightest 
 damage. 
 
 37,700 acres of land, of which about one half lies 
 on either side of the river, and the most inland point 
 of which is about ten miles from the sea, have been 
 laid out here as a rural district; in which 254 sections 
 of 100 acres each have been selected by purchasers from 
 
 T2
 
 210 FACE OF COUNTRY. 
 
 the New Zealand Company, and 27 reserved for the 
 natives. 
 
 The general character of this land is level and open ; 
 and a considerable portion of it consists of table-lands, 
 of greater or less extent, lying at elevations varying 
 from 6 or 8 to 200 feet above the level of high water. 
 Groves of timber, both large and small, are scattered 
 irregularly over this district; but the most thickly 
 wooded parts are generally those which lie lowest, and 
 the steep sides of the picturesque gullies, which nu- 
 merous tributary streams have cut out of the table- 
 land on their way to the river. East of the river's 
 mouth, the high table-land does not reach within a 
 mile or two of the coast; but on the western side it 
 forms stratified argillaceous cliffs, containing recent 
 shells and occasional lignite, which are washed by the 
 sea at high water. 
 
 The open portions of this district are covered either 
 with high fern, or with the mixed growth of flax, grass, 
 and shrubs, which has been already described. The 
 soil, even on the highest table-lands, is capable of very 
 advantageous cultivation; and that of the lower valleys 
 is still more fertile. In some situations a little drainage 
 is required, to let off the surface water; but this land 
 possesses a very rich soil. There are several fresh- 
 water lagoons, in which eels abound, even on the 
 highest table-lands. 
 
 The Wanganui river, passing through a great ex- 
 tent of mountainous country, is subject to very strong 
 freshets; which, however, do not rise above its present 
 banks. On such occasions, the surface of the stream 
 is covered with pumice-stone, from the volcanic district 
 round Tonga Riro, and drift-wood; which are found in 
 large quantities all along the northern shore of Cook's 
 Strait. 
 
 The site of the Town of Petre, about four miles up 
 the west bank, contains 508 sections of a quarter of 
 an acre each, besides reserves, and a belt for public
 
 TOWN OF PETRE. 211 
 
 purposes thus extending in all over 807 acres. It 
 forms nearly a square, of which two sides are bounded 
 by the river, and a third by a steep wooded slope, lead- 
 ing up to the high table-land. The situation is ex- 
 ceedingly picturesque; bold cliffs forming the opposite 
 bank of the river. The town-site itself is level, with 
 the exception of two or three low sand-ridges covered 
 with fern. On one of these ridges is built the stockade, 
 in which a detachment of troops is quartered. 
 
 254 sections have been selected by the purchasers 
 from the Company, to whom these town allotments 
 were granted beyond the rural sections they had pur- 
 chased, on condition that the Company should be 
 allowed to select town-sections alternately with, and to 
 the same number as, the purchasers. 
 
 A small Church, and a Lock-up-house, a Post-office, 
 and a School, all of wood, constitute the only public 
 buildings of the little Town, which has not more than 
 thirty houses in it altogether. The first English set- 
 tlers arrived from Wellington in 1842; in August 1845 
 the white population of Wanganui was 186: and there 
 were in the settlement 10 horses, 310 head of cattle, 
 174 sheep, and 159 goats; and 89 acres of land were 
 under cultivation. Since that time, although no regu- 
 lar census has been taken, it is known that the stock of 
 cattle and sheep had been considerably augmented 
 by importations from "Wellington, and that a larger 
 quantity of land had also been brought under cultiva- 
 tion. In consequence, however, of a rebellion among 
 the resident natives, which broke out early in 1847,* 
 the most lamentable disasters have, for the present, 
 destroyed the little settlement. By the last accounts, 
 the principal settlers had abandoned, or were abandon- 
 ing, the district, the homesteads and crops having been 
 destroyed, and the greater part of the cattle killed or 
 driven off by the natives. Some of the settlers have 
 
 See p. 81.
 
 212 CLIMATE. PRODUCE. 
 
 arrived at Nelson, some at New Plymouth, and others 
 at Wellington, with the remains of their property; and 
 the district is at present occupied by a force of some 
 hundred troops, provided with armed boats, artillery, 
 and ammunition of every description. 
 
 The Climate of "Wanganui is comparatively free from 
 the constant winds which blow in the neighbourhood of 
 Wellington, where the Strait forms a narrow funnel; 
 and it has been likened by Dr. Peter Wilson, one of 
 the principal Colonists, who had resided for many years 
 in the South of Spain, near Cadiz and Seville, to the 
 climate of that country, but with the addition of fre- 
 quent showers. 
 
 This Settlement had already become famous for the 
 excellence of the hams and bacon cured there, and sent 
 to Wellington wild hogs abounding in all parts of the 
 district. Fish of all the kinds common at Wellington 
 abound off the mouth of the river; and the kawai, as 
 well as smelts, and the aua, or so-called herring, as- 
 cend the river with the flood-tide, as high up as the 
 Town. Eels are also obtained in plenty. The Rev. 
 James Taylor, a clergyman employed by the Church 
 Missionary Society, resides near the native village 
 called Putikiwaranui, opposite the Town, on the East 
 bank, and used to officiate in the English Church. 
 
 The aboriginal population living at various spots on 
 fhe banks of this river, has been variously estimated. 
 The Rev. Mr. Taylor took a very accurate census in 
 1 843, between the sea and the pa of Pipiriki, which is 
 situate about eighty miles up the river, and he counted 
 2200 souls; but there are known to be many populous vil- 
 lages still higher up: and Governor Grey, in a despatch 
 dated July 1, 1847,* which describes the origin and 
 prospects of the above-mentioned hostilities, estimates 
 the total number of inhabitants residing on the banks 
 of the river at 5000 souls, of whom 1400 are fighting- 
 men. It appears that about 600 or 700 fighting-men 
 
 * Papers (N. Z.), presented to both Houses in December, 1847, 
 page 59.
 
 COAL. INLAND COUNTRY. '21o 
 
 were engaged in the skirmishes of June and July 1847, 
 with the troops.* 
 
 On the banks of a small tributary called Tangaralcau, 
 which joins the river from the W. about 100 miles 
 inland, Coal has been found by the natives; but the 
 numerous falls and rapids which obstruct the navigation 
 beyond the distance of twenty miles from the sea, would 
 prevent this resource from being, at present, easily made 
 available for use on the coast. The upper part of the 
 river's course lies in the midst of a closely wooded 
 country, mountainous and picturesque, but containing 
 extensive districts of fertile and desirable land. The 
 natives bring the hogs which they catch, and the produce 
 of their cultivations, to the sea in canoes, some of which 
 carry a cargo of a ton weight, and which they guide over 
 the rapids*with singular dexterity. The return voyage is 
 accomplished by means of long poles, in handling which 
 they are also very skilful. From various points on the 
 river's bank, the footpaths in common use by the na- 
 tives strike off in various directions, whether towards 
 Tonga Riro and Lake Taupo, or towards the head 
 waters of the Waitera and Mokau rivers, and the har- 
 bour of Kawia, which are on the West coast, North of 
 New Plymouth.t 
 
 The present garrison of Petre consists of detach- 
 ments of the 58th and 65th regiments, and of the Royal 
 Artillery, under the command of Major A. F. W. 
 AVyatt; and it amounted, in the end of 1847, to 300 or 
 400 men. Major Wyatt holds the appointment of 
 Resident Magistrate; and S. King, Esq., is a Justice 
 of the Peace for this Settlement. 
 
 * Papers (N. Z.), presented to both Houses, 3rd February, 1848, 
 page 8. 
 
 t Sec Chapter VIII.
 
 214 NELSON DISTRICT. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Nelson District. Mountain Ranges, Waimea Plains. Nelson 
 Haven and Town. Facilities for Building Steam-Docks. 
 Sailing Directions. Massacre Bay. Coal. Motueka. Mou- 
 tere. Suburban. Coasts of Blind Bay. Port Hardy. 
 French Pass, Admiralty Bay. Pelorus Sound. Port Gore. 
 Queen Charlotte Sound. Newton Bay and Wailohe Pass. 
 Projected Town. Tory Channel. Te-awa-iti. Tide in 
 Cook's Strait. Port Underwood, Wairan River, Plain. 
 White Bluff Hills, Kaipara-te-ao. Massacre of 184:j. 
 Cape Campbell. Sheep-runs. South Wanyanui. West Coast. 
 Rivers Buller and Grey. Lakes Howick and Arthur. Sum- 
 mary of Available Land. Climate. Meteorological Tables. 
 Soil. Roads. Natural Productions : 1. Vegetable. 2. Ani- 
 mal; Agricultural Society, 1847; Sheep-farming. :j. Mineral; 
 Coal and Limestone. Distribution of Land. Revised Plan. 
 Cost of Clearing Land, dec. General Statistics, &c, Latest 
 Prices Current. Directory. 
 
 THE Nelson district may be shortly described as all 
 that part of the Middle Island which lies north of the 
 forty-second degree of south latitude. 
 
 In about that latitude, the Kaikora Mountains, or 
 Southern Alps, already described in the third Chapter, 
 page 41, branch off into numerous lower ranges, which 
 stretch northwards into the sea at various points on 
 the south shore .of Cook's Strait. Thus one range 
 strikes the sea at Kaikora, or the Lookers-on, forming 
 a precipitous coast thence northwards nearly to Cape 
 Campbell. Another range extends along between Cape 
 Campbell and Cloudy Bay, terminating in a cliff called 
 the White Bluff: a third forms the north-western- 
 boundary of the Wairau Plain, and is again subdivided 
 into the ridges which enclose the magnificent harbours of 
 Port Underwood, Queen Charlotte Sound, Port Gore, 
 and Pelorus Sound between their numerous spurs: and 
 a fourth range extends west of Blind Bay, nearly to 
 Cape Farewell. The greater part of the Nelson dis- 
 trict which borders on the sea is, therefore, mountainous,
 
 MOUNTAINS. PLAINS. 215 
 
 in general heavily wooded, and steep to the water's 
 edge. Numerous level spots, however, of greater or 
 less extent, hare been formed by the countless streams 
 which drain this country, at their mouths in the inter- 
 vals between the lesser spurs. But on the western 
 and southern sides of Massacre Bay, at the south-west 
 extremity of Blind Bay, and immediately adjoining 
 the coast between the mouth of Port Underwood and 
 Cape Campbell, there are tracts of level or gently undu- 
 lating country extensive enough to be called plains: and 
 between the north-east part of the White Bluff range 
 and the east coast there is also a considerable breadth 
 of level table-land, as well as of low plains close to the 
 coast. 
 
 The mountain ranges are of the same volcanic for- 
 mation as those in the northern island; and the remain- 
 ing part of the country also bears generally a similar 
 geological character. 
 
 A sandy beach extends across the south-west end of 
 Blind Bay, from the mouth of the Motueka river on the 
 north, to that of the Waimea on the south, a distance 
 of nearly twenty miles. A smaller river, the Moutere, 
 flows into the sea about three miles south of the 
 Motueka. At the back of this beach lies the undu- 
 lating tract above mentioned, of which the most level 
 parts lie immediately on the banks of these three rivers, 
 and contiguous to the sea-shore. The eastern and 
 western hills gradually approach each other, and close 
 in a few miles inland; the valleys of the streams be- 
 coming then mere gullies. 
 
 At the southernmost end of the beach, and in the 
 south-east corner of Blind Bay, are the Haven and 
 Town of Nelson. The following extracts give an idea 
 of their situation and appearance: 
 
 " A curious bank of boulders, of no great breadth, and raised but 
 few feet above the highest tides which, indeed, wash over it in some 
 low spots runs along parallel with the land for about six miles, 
 thoroughly sheltering a space, which averages a quarter of a mile in
 
 216 NELSON HAVEN. 
 
 width, from the force of the sea. This natural breakwater joins the 
 land at its northern extremity, but leaves a narrow gut, between its 
 southern point and the steep coast adjoining, at the very south-east 
 corner of Blind Bay. This gut is the entrance of Nelson Haven. 
 Farther to the west, a moderate-sized river, called the Waimea, 
 empties itself by several mouths into the sea. This river and the 
 waters which flow out of the haven form a deep pool, sheltered by a 
 bar. The bar extends from a spot on the seaward shore of the 
 boulder bank, about half a mile north of its southernmost point, to 
 the sands, which stretch out some distance from the low coast, ex- 
 tending ten or twelve miles to the westward of Nelson Haven." 
 
 " Our anchorage was outside the bar. On the bar are found 
 nine feet of water at low-water spring tides ; but the springs 
 rise thirteen or fourteen feet on this coast. In the pool which I 
 have described is excellent anchorage, as in stormy weather the sea 
 is broken by the bar." 
 
 " From thence the navigation to the inner haven requires a prac- 
 tised pilot; as the tides are exceedingly rapid, and the channel very 
 narrow. A peaked rock, called ' the Arrow,' rises high out of water, 
 not a hundred yards south of the point of the boulder bank ; and 
 the ship channel is between the two." 
 
 " The inner gut, between the boulder bank and the main, is still 
 narrower, but holds out less danger, as the tide sweeps fairly 
 through it." 
 
 " Once inside this, you may fancy yourself in a dock, except that 
 a rapid tide sweeps along the land side for about a mile. The side 
 towards the boulder bank is out of the influence of the tide, and 
 there vessels generally anchor." 
 
 " The eastern shore of the haven is formed, for a mile from its 
 entrance, by a low but steep ridge of hills that are bare of wood. 
 But beyond this, the haven expands to the eastward into a broad 
 space, which is a lake when covered by the tide, and a mud-flat at 
 other times, intersected by the branching channels of a small river 
 called the Maitai. An amphitheatre of about 1000 acres, shelving 
 Tip from the southern shore of this lagoon to the base of abrupt 
 mountains on the east and south-east, seems made for the site of a 
 town, and here Nelson is situated. It is only separated from the 
 entrance of the haven by the ridge of hills which I have mentioned ; 
 and a path over its summit forms a short cut between the haven and 
 the town. Facing to the north, it enjoys a view over the wide part 
 of the haven and the boulder bank into the expanse of Blind Bay ; 
 and the fringe of wood on the banks of the Maitai leads the eye to 
 the forest gullies and towering crags in the direction of the Ohiere, 
 or Pelorus river." * * * 
 
 " It is a curious sight to see a large ship enter the haven under 
 sail. The most favourable time to do this is with the full force of 
 tlie flood., and against a, working breeze that Hows out of the harbouv.
 
 FACILITIES FOR STEAM-DOCKS. 217 
 
 Passing rapidly between the Arrow Bock and the Bonlder Bank, she 
 comes ap head to wind, as her jib-boom-end is almost over your 
 head while yon stand on the beach just inside the gut, and she makes 
 way on the starboard tack enough to shoot oat of the tide, which 
 has swept her half a mile np the harbour, into the eddj where she 
 is to anchor. 1 * E. Jerningkam WaJeefield's ' Adventure in New 
 Zealand from 1839 to 1M4.' Vol. EL, Chap. VII., pp. 178 1->4. 
 
 Two men-of-war entered the Haven of Nelson in the 
 course of the year 1847. One was H. M. Steamer 
 Inflexible, which draws from thirteen to fifteen feet; 
 the other was H. M. S. Racehorse, 18 guns, which 
 was hove down high and dry on the Boulder Bank 
 to have her bottom cleaned. The great rise and fall 
 of the tide in this harbour afford unusual facilities for 
 this important operation, and also for the establish- 
 ment of dry docks, which might easily be made there, 
 thoroughly available for Steam-ships of the largest size. 
 According to the plan on which the Nelson Settlement 
 was founded,* a portion of the purchase-money of land 
 was reserved as a fund for the encouragement of Steam 
 Navigation; and the purchasers were discussing, in the 
 beginning of the year 1848, in what manner they should 
 direct the expenditure of this fund, which already 
 amounts to nearly 11,000/. It is well worth consi- 
 deration whether, by joining this fund to a contribution 
 from the Government Expenditure, such a work might 
 not be executed, and thus render exceedingly attractive 
 the unsold portion of the Settlement, which would 
 continue to furnish further resources for the encourage- 
 ment of Steam Navigation in this and other ways. 
 The proximity of coal in abundance, suited to steam 
 purposes, is a great recommendation of the locality of 
 -on for the establishment of such a dock. The 
 only large dry-docks now existing in the whole of the 
 Pacific and Indian Oceans are at Bombay and Calcutta: 
 very inconveniently situated for the use of English 
 and French men-of-war Steamers stationed on the west 
 coast of America, at Tahiti or the Marquesas, or in 
 * See p. -20-2. 
 U
 
 218 SAILING DIRECTIONS. 
 
 New Zealand, or the other Australian Colonies. The 
 commercial Steamers, now plying between Panama and 
 Concepcion on the west coast of South America, return 
 to England if they want docking: and those which will 
 soon be established to connect the Australian Colonies 
 with the Indian line of Steamers, as well as the screw- 
 Steamers which it has been recently proposed to lay on 
 to the same part of the world via the Cape of Good 
 Hope,* will have to go, as H. M. Steamer Inflexible has 
 lately done,f a six weeks' journey out of their way, to a 
 place where there is no Coal, whenever they may 
 require such repairs as call for the use of a dry dock. 
 
 The following Sailing Directions for the Port of 
 Nelson are from the Cook's Strait Almanac for 1848: 
 
 "NELSON, S. lat. 41o 14'; E. long. 173 16'; T. of H. W. F. and 
 C. 0hr.; Sp. rise 11 feet." 
 
 " Sailing Directions. Ships bound to Nelson Haven, if the 
 weather be fine, should run boldly down on the eastern shore of the 
 Gulf, making Pepin's Island, which has the appearance merely of a 
 point, as it is nearly dry at low water between it and the main. The 
 island is situated about seven miles south-westerly of Croixilles' 
 Harbour, and from nine to ten miles from the entrance of Nelson 
 Haven ; four or five miles S. W. from Pepin's Island will be seen a 
 long shingle spit or boulder bank, running in a S. W. direction, 
 which may be approached to a mile with the lead going : this may 
 be run along safely at that distance until you get into seven fathoms, 
 keeping the wood on the banks of the Maitai river well open with 
 Green Point, when you may anchor, and wait for a pilot. Great 
 attention should be paid to the lead, as the water shoals on the flats 
 very suddenly." 
 
 " The leading mark for running over the flats, when the tide 
 answers, is Mount Rintoul, just open to the westward of a clump of 
 trees near the beach, bearing S. 5- E. by compass until you bring 
 Arrow Rock well into a remarkable hollow in the Yellow Cliff, when 
 you may steer for the Arrow Rock until you bring the 'Whiiby 
 Beacon on with a mark on the opposite land ; then steer for the 
 beacon until a ship's length from it, and give it a berth of a ship's 
 breadth and a half, and you are in deep water. If the wind be out, 
 put her about, and if the ship does not come round, let go an anchor 
 and sheer over to starboard, run a ketlge out and haul her into a 
 berth in the eddy, or drop up to the deep water at the head of the 
 
 * See " Steam Communication with the Cape of Good Hope, 
 Australia, and New Zealand," &c., by F. Jerniugham, 1848. 
 t See p. 208.
 
 RURAL DISTRICTS. 
 
 harbour. Ships should not attempt this harbour without a pilot, if 
 they are unacquainted with it. There will be found at spring tides 
 twenty feet over the flats at high water, at the neaps about seventeen 
 feet ; the entrance of the harbour has a foot more." 
 
 A Nelson Colonist, writing in the latter end of 1845, 
 thus describes the country districts around Blind 
 Bay: 
 
 " They are,'' he says, " valleys opening into the bottom of the 
 gulf, separated by low hills, and into Massacre Bay. These are all 
 surveyed. The land in them is good, bad, and indifferent ; no two 
 opinions agree as to the relative proportions of each kind. As to 
 the relative qualities, flax land is considered the best ; wood land 
 next, but from the expense of clearing it is not often attempted here. 
 Fern land should have a summer's fallow and a winter's frost ; it 
 will then yield a good crop of potatoes, and the next year of grain. 
 Sheepfolding secures a good crop from fern land the first year. An 
 experiment is being made on the very worst land of all the clay 
 hills between the Wairnea and Moutere. A patch is sown with 
 turnips, to be fed down with sheep, and a good crop is expected for 
 the second year." 
 
 A writer in the JVW-so/t Examiner, a local newspaper, 
 in 1846, gives a detailed description of the country 
 districts, from which the following extracts are made. 
 It must be premised, however, that the writer has an 
 exaggerated notion of the expense of clearing wooded 
 land, which will rarely be greater than that given by 
 Mr. Molesworth as that on his farm near "Wellington 
 (see page 177). 
 
 Beginning at the north-western extremity of the 
 district, 
 
 " Massacre Bay contains about 45,000 acres of level or compara- 
 tively level land, of which 15,000 lie in the Aorere* Valley, and 
 30,000 in that of the Takaka* and tributaries, or along the line of 
 coast between the two. The character of the land in both districts 
 varies exceedingly ; some being apparently very fertile, consisting of 
 rich alluvial soil ; whilst a large portion is either utterly worthless, 
 or unprofitable for cultivation during the early periods of a settler's 
 life in a new Colony. Nearly the whole of the Aorere is densely 
 covered with heavy timber, the clearing of which would be attended 
 with a great outlay, on account of the large size of the rata trees, 
 which abound, and the extensive ramifications of the roots. A large 
 
 * These are small rivers, which flow into Massacre Bay ; Aorere 
 from the west, Takaka from the south.
 
 220 MASSACRE BAY. COAL. 
 
 portion of the valley is said to be subject to inundation, but the 
 general indications of the soil do not appear to infer that floods are 
 of frequent occurrence; the river, although rapid, being tolerably 
 direct in its course. The rich alluvial land near the mouth is 
 probably liable to be overflown, owing to the passage of the river 
 being choked up in several places by large masses of trees, which 
 different floods have collected. Probably about 10,000 acres of land 
 in the Aorere Valley might be considered to be fertile and desirable 
 for occupation, but heavy expense must be incurred in clearing." 
 
 " The above remarks will apply to the Takaka district as regards 
 the expense of clearing, although the timber is generally of less size, 
 the number of rata trees being comparatively few. The district 
 altogether may be considered more desirable and of greater value 
 than that of Aorere. On the Motupipi side,* in particular, the land 
 appears to be exceedingly fertile, with two or three thousand acres 
 of open country, mostly of alluvial soil. Much of the valley bears 
 evident traces of being frequently flooded, the course of the stream 
 being more circuitous than that of the Aorere, and its channel still 
 more choked up with trees and driftwood." 
 
 On the coast at Motupipi,f the bed of a flat, dry at 
 low water, is formed of bare Coal; which, with a 
 stratum exposed in the adjoining hills, has been worked 
 since the end of the year 1845 at the expense of some 
 Wellington Colonists who purchased the section. The 
 Coal has been tried, and Captain Hoseason, of H. M. 
 Steamer Inflexible, has made a most favourable report 
 on it, which will be found in Appendix A. 
 
 Limestone is also abundant in this neighbourhood; 
 and the same persons have also a lime-kiln at work. 
 
 " A tract of land bordering the coast between the mouths of the 
 Aorere and Takaka, consisting of alternating flats and low hills, and 
 containing about ten or twelve thousand acres, has been surveyed ; 
 but its character is very inferior, with the exception of one or two 
 thousand acres of bush near the centre of it. The amount of fair 
 average land in the Takaka district may be estimated at 15,000 
 acres." 
 
 The easiest means of communication with the above 
 districts is by water. The distance from Nelson to 
 Separation Point, which forms the S. headland of Mas- 
 sacre Bay, is 35 miles; from Separation Point to Mo- 
 
 * . e., the eastern side. 
 + At the mouth of the Takaka river.
 
 MOTUEKA. SUBUKBAN. 
 
 tupipi about 8; and from Separation Point to the 
 mouth of the Aorere about 17 miles. 
 
 ' The district of Motueka is next in order. The great bulk of 
 this plain adjoining the coast has been distributed for accommoda- 
 tion sections, and comprises some of the best land in the settlement, 
 although somewhat distant from the Town.* A small portion only 
 remains for rural sections, and this lies in very detached situations. 
 Altogether the amount may be about 5000 acres, most of which is 
 ferule soil, partly timbered. A larger quantity than this has been 
 sum Tod for rural sections, but they are at present difficult of access." 
 
 " In the Moutere district there is no land of any consequence 
 available for profitable cultivation, excepting the wooded valley 
 which has been given out for accommodation sections, and these are 
 considered by most who have visited the locality to be of inferior 
 quality and difficult of drainage." 
 
 " Of the remaining portions of Blind Bay, or connected with it, 
 the largest amount of flat land occurs on the banks of the Motueka 
 river and it tributaries, some fifty or sixty miles from its mouth. 
 This is mostly contained within narrow gorges, varying from half a 
 mile to a mile and a half in breadth. Some portion of this land is 
 of tolerable quality, mostly at the lower part below the junction of 
 the Motupiko,* but the remainder is subject to inundation, and 
 much broken up in its surface. The access to this valley is difficult ; 
 the route being over the range that separates it from that of the 
 Wai-iti.J The whole amount of level land in all the tributaries may 
 be about 15,000 acres, but of this quantity barely 5000 can be con- 
 sidered of fair average quality. There is about a similar quantity of 
 land contained in the narrow gorge of the Wai-iti and sundry other 
 gullies or gorges tributary to it. Some of this may be of an average 
 quality ; but, confined, as it is, between lofty ranges of hills, must be 
 much subject to floods and cold winds sweeping down such narrow 
 channels. In the more immediate neighbourhood of Nelson, in 
 detached portions,! there are about 2000 acres of good land, 1000 of 
 which are contained within the Boulder Bank at the upper end, where 
 it joins the Bluff near Wakapnaka. ; There is also a small tract of 
 rich timbered laud, near the pah at Wakapnaka, stretching upwards 
 to the Happy Valley, which may probably contain 2000 acres." 
 
 * The nearest part of the plain is about eighteen miles by water, 
 and at least twenty-five by land, from the town of Nelson. 
 
 t A main tributary of the Motueka, flowing from farther sonth 
 than the parent stream, and joining it on its west bank, about thirty 
 miles above its mouth. 
 
 J A tributary of the Waimea. 
 Including what is called the Waimea plain. 
 A native village near Pepin's Island, north of Nelson, 
 r 2
 
 222 COASTS OF BLIND BAY. 
 
 There are small native villages, with cultivations 
 appertaining to them, at various spots on the shores of 
 Massacre Bay, and along the coast as far south as the 
 mouth of the Motueka:* also at Wakapuaka, mentioned 
 above. But the whole native population inhabiting the 
 shores of Blind Bay, between Wakapuaka and Cape 
 Farewell, amounted to no more than 335 males and 280 
 females, or 615 in all, at the end of 1847. 
 
 There is a good roadstead, sheltered from all winds, 
 under Tata Island, at the S. end of Massacre Bay, 
 affording anchorage in from 3 to 4 fathoms to a limited 
 number of ships. This has been called Victoria Haven, 
 and is distant about 2 miles from Motupipi before 
 mentioned, lying between it and Separation Point. The 
 anchorage is good in other parts of Massacre Bay, 
 except in a strong easterly gale. 
 
 Astrolabe roads, between Adele Island and the main, 
 about 7 miles N. of the mouth of the Motueka, and 
 13 miles S. of Separation Point, is a perfectly safe 
 roadstead in all weathers. The following notice of it 
 occurs in the Cook's Strait Almanac for 1846; 
 
 ''Astrolabe Roads (W. shore of Blind Bay), S. lat. 40 58' 22"; 
 
 E. long. 173 5'; T. of H. W. F. and C. 8hr.; Sp. rise 12ft." 
 " Anchorage in 5 fms. between N. Point of Adele Id. and main." 
 
 Small craft, by taking advantage of the tide, which 
 rises at springs from 13 to 15 feet all along this coast, 
 may enter most of the rivers. 
 
 There are a few European settlers already in the 
 Aorere and Takaka valleys, and at Motupipi; a good 
 many on the banks of the Motueka: but the principal 
 farms at present in cultivation are in the plain of the 
 Waimea and its tributaries. 
 
 North of Nelson, the east shore of Blind Bay, 
 including D'Urville Island, is steep and backed by 
 high mountains, for the most part wooded. It is 
 remarkable, however, for two fine harbours: Croisilles 
 
 * The Natives of this place have abandoned their old style of 
 living, and dwell on the Reserves made for them, cultivating farms 
 after the English fashion.
 
 PORT HABDV. 
 
 Harbour on the main; and Port Hardy on D'Urville 
 Island. 
 
 The latter is thus described in the Cook's Strait 
 Almanac for 1846: 
 
 "PoBT HABDY. Nelson's Monument, S. lat. 40 44'; E. long. 
 : T. of H. W. F. and C. 8 hr.; Sp. rise 12 ft" 
 
 "Excellent harbour; general soundings in middle of harbour 
 1'J to 15 fathoms. The tides set across the entrance, and vessels 
 must therefore keep well to the E. on the flood, and to the W. on 
 the ebb, but avoiding the reefs off Nile and Trafalgar Heads (W. 
 headlands of the harbour), as the ebb, from the W., sets on them." 
 
 Port Hardy was the rendezvous of the ships con- 
 taining the first Wellington Colonists. They arrived 
 from England in January and February, 1840, ignorant 
 of the spot which had been selected for the Settlement:* 
 and the ships were piloted to Port Nicholson by a 
 whaler named James McLaren, who had been engaged 
 by Colonel Wakefield to await them for that purpose. 
 This man was living, with some of his native connec- 
 tions, at a village called Rangitoto, on the E. side of the 
 island, near which there is good anchorage for small 
 craft. The natives, in number about 50, have a small 
 tract of mountain land under cultivation for potatoes. 
 
 The French Pass, between D'Urville Island and 
 the mainland, is practicable for vessels of any draught: 
 but the violence of the tides, and the uncertainty of the 
 wind in this narrow channel, render the attempt to 
 thread it very dangerous. 
 
 The passage between D'Urville and Stephens Islands 
 should not be attempted by any but small craft; or by 
 any but navigators well acquainted with the rocks, 
 and with the set of the tides and currents. 
 
 Admiralty Bay lies to the east of D'Urville Island, 
 its extreme capes being Cape Stephens and Point 
 Lambert. This bay is studded with hilly, wooded 
 islands, of various sizes; and among these very good 
 anchorage may be found. The largest of them is 
 
 See pp. 64, 66.
 
 224 PELORUS SOUND. 
 
 Guard Island, about a mile in length. Here 30 or 40 
 natives generally reside; having some productive po- 
 tato-grounds on the E. face of the island. The channel 
 between Guard Island and the mainland is only pass- 
 able for boats. 
 
 At the S. end of Admiralty Bay is the entrance of 
 Pelorus Sound, about a mile in width. The estuary 
 immediately expands, and you continue to advance for 
 20 or 30 miles along a magnificent arm of the sea. 
 The wooded mountains which enclose it are on the 
 grandest scale, and the depth of water is 30 or 40 
 fathoms. Bays and harbours, many of them more 
 capacious than Plymouth Sound, branch out in every 
 direction. So numerous and varied in their forms are 
 these ramifications, that it would be easy to mistake the 
 track to the principal fresh-water river at the head of 
 the Sound. The whole scene forms a labyrinth on an 
 immense scale, in which you may lose your way among 
 tortuous paths of water 2 or 3 miles broad, and between 
 hedges composed of mountains from 2000 to 3000 feet 
 in height, clothed to the summits with the most luxu- 
 riant and majestic timber. Even on a second visit, 
 some persons have been guided in the most intricate 
 passes only by watching the set of the tide. Here and 
 there level spots, varying in extent from 1 to 10 or 15 
 acres, are found between the water and the steep hill- 
 sides. Two deep bays, with valleys at their heads, 
 stretching to the E. and S.E., afford a communication 
 with the W. end of Queen Charlotte Sound and with 
 the Wairau plain. 
 
 The one communicating with the Wairau plain is 
 called the Kaituna pass. From the head of Kaituua 
 Bay the valley of a stream stretches nearly due S., 
 forming, with the valley of a tributary of the Wairau 
 extending in the same direction, the Kaituna pass, 
 about 14 miles in length from Pelorus Sound to the 
 Wairau Plain, which it joins about 10 miles W. of the 
 sea in Cloudy Bay.
 
 PORT GORE. -2-2 ') 
 
 The pass communicating with Queen Charlotte 
 Sound is a neck of level land, only about three miles 
 across from beach to beach. 
 
 Into the head of Pelorus Sound a considerable stream 
 flows through a narrow valley, wooded at its lower end, 
 but covered with fern or flax higher up. It contains, 
 perhaps, 2000 acres of land available for cultivation. 
 The hills which bound the upper part of the valley are 
 also bare of wood, and are supposed to be suited to 
 pastoral purposes. The phormium tenax in this valley 
 is of a very superior quality; and some slaves of the 
 Kapiti natives sometimes undertake expeditions for the 
 purpose of collecting the flax from it. Otherwise the 
 whole district is uninhabited, the original inhabitants, 
 remains of whose villages are to be seen in some of the 
 level spets, having been exterminated by Rauperaha 
 about twenty years ago. 
 
 Countless flocks of wild-ducks of various kinds are 
 found near the mouth of the stream: teal on its banks; 
 and pigeons and parrots in every part of the woods 
 near the Sound. 
 
 There is a herd of wild cattle near the eastern head 
 of the entrance; which have originated in the same 
 manner as those described at Kapiti (see page 128). 
 
 Between Guard Island and Point Lambert, two or 
 three bays stretch back among the wooded mountains. 
 The westernmost of these, Anakoa Bay, is supposed to 
 be five or six miles in length. 
 
 Port Gore, of which the entrance is between Point 
 Lambert and Point Jackson, forms a noble harbour of 
 refuge for vessels caught by an adverse gale in the 
 Strait. The inner anchorage, Melville Cove, lies 
 round to the west after entering. The surrounding 
 land is very high, and wooded. Except as a resting- 
 place on a journey, or during a fishing excursion, this 
 spot is unfrequented by natives. The following par- 
 ticulars are given in the Cook's Strait Almanac for 
 1846:
 
 226 QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND. 
 
 " POUT GORE (Hart Point) S. lat. 41 1' ; E. loug. 174 8' ; 
 T. of H. W. F. and C. 8 hr. ; Sp. rise 12 ft. Entrance 7 miles 
 wide ; direction about S.W." 
 
 E. of Point Jackson is the mouth of another noble 
 arm of the sea, Queen Charlotte Sound. Its E. side 
 is formed by the Island of Arapawa, which is about 
 1 5 miles long and 2 miles broad. The passage between 
 this island and the mainland on its S.E. side is called 
 Tory Channel, because first surveyed in 1839 by 
 Captain Chaffers and the officers of the ship Tory, 
 containing the preliminary expedition of the New 
 Zealand Company. 
 
 Queen Charlotte Sound resembles Pelorus Sound on 
 a smaller scale. The immediately surrounding moun- 
 tains are none of them more than 1500 feet in 
 height: the Sound, although 9 miles wide at its northern 
 entrance, narrows as you advance; and the Tory 
 Channel, at its E. entrance and in several other places, 
 is scarcely more than a quarter of a mile in breadth. 
 
 Entering from the north, numerous islands and pro- 
 jecting points are dotted over the expanse of water 
 which penetrates into the interior; and a glimpse of the 
 snow-covered Southern Alps is obtained in the distance. 
 
 The principal entrance lies between Long Island 
 and Motuara. The latter island is remarkable for 
 having been the spot which Captain Cook selected for 
 his observatory and garden ; while Ship Cove, an 
 excellent harbour between it and the western shore, 
 was his favourite anchorage for refitting during his 
 visits to New Zealand in the years 1769 to 1777. 
 
 There is a fine harbour called East Bay at the north- 
 western end of Arapawa Island; the entrance being 
 about six miles south of Cape Koumaru. 
 
 On the western side of the Sound, besides Ship Cove, 
 there are several harbours, one of which is called West 
 Bay, capable of holding any number of shipping, and 
 surrounded with excellent timber of all kinds. W. of 
 the point where Tory Channel joins Queen Charlotte 
 Sound, the latter extends about 10 miles nearly due
 
 NEWTON BAY. 227 
 
 W., the westernmost point being what has been re- 
 cently called Shakspeare Bay, from which the level 
 pass before mentioned communicates with Pelorus 
 Sound. 
 
 The next harbour on the S. side of the Sound, 
 "Waitohe, or, as it has been recently called, " Newton" 
 Bay, is of importance, as found to be, by a Committee 
 of Nelson Land-purchasers appointed to make the 
 necessary examination, the most eligible site for a 
 shipping-town to the "VVairau plain. 
 
 This Committee, in their Report, dated January 18, 
 1848,* quote the following authorities as to the 
 excellence of Queen Charlotte Sound generally. Cap- 
 tain Cook says: 
 
 " It is at the entrance (north) three leagues broad, and is a col- 
 lection of tne finest harbours in the world." 
 
 Captain Chaffers, who surveyed Tory Channel and 
 a great portion of Queen Charlotte Sound in 1839, 
 says: 
 
 " The tides are regular, the soundings from Motnara Island (at 
 the mouth) gradually deepen from seven and eight to thirty and 
 thirty-live fathoms mid channel. The shores on both sides are bold, 
 and may be approached with safety to one cable's distance. In case 
 of night coming OH, good anchorage can be found in the coves on 
 either side of the Sound." 
 
 The Report then goes on as follows : 
 
 " The water continues deep almost to the head of the Sound, and 
 its width diminishes very gradually. It is two or three miles wide 
 between the south end of Tory Channel and Newton Bay. The 
 projecting points on the opposite sides of the sound at Newton Bay, 
 are from one mile and three-quarters to two miles apart, and the 
 sound widens again above these points. Then the soundings give 
 twenty-two to twenty-three fathoms." 
 
 " With such a breadth and uniform depth of water, with the same 
 abundance of deep and safe coves and harbours, with a singular 
 1'ivedom from rocks, and shoals, and sand banks, the upper part of 
 the Sound, even above Newton Bay, deserves, as \vell as the lower, 
 tin- terms in which Col. Waki-ficld, in his excellently written 
 journal, describes the Sound in general. ' On the whole,' says 
 
 * N. Z. Journal, July 1, 1848, Vol. IX., No. 324, p. 150.
 
 228 NEWTON BAY. 
 
 be, ' considering the position and capabilities of Queen Charlotte 
 Sound, whether with a view to its becoming a port for homeward 
 bound vessels to take in cargo and provisions, a safe channel of 
 communication between the W. part of the Straits and Port 
 Nicholson and the E. coast, or as a situation for docks and ship- 
 building, it is of the first importance, and cannot be spoken of in 
 too high terms.' "* 
 
 Newton Bay itself is thus described: 
 
 " At the mouth lies a little island, leaving a passage of about J of 
 a mile wide on the E., and one of half a mile wide on the W. The 
 soundings, which are 22 fathoms at the harbour's mouth, decrease 
 within the islet to 17 fathoms, and then diminish very gradually, 
 and with the utmost regularity, to 4, and 3 fathoms, within 100 
 yards at most from the shore at the head of the harbour. The 
 harbour, or cove, within the islet, may be called about 1^ mile deep, 
 by 1 mile wide. The soundings across are as regular as those 
 from N. to S., in which direction the harbour lies. At the bottom 
 of the cove, on the E. and W. sides, where the hills come down to 
 the water's edge, there are from 4 to 7 fathoms within a boat's 
 
 length of the shore. The bottom is sandy clay with broken shells." 
 ********* 
 
 " The harbour is connected with the (Wairau) plain, by a pass 
 through a valley which is densely wooded for the first 8 or 9 miles. 
 The path crosses some slopes which can scarcely be called more 
 than undulations, and, indeed, would hardly render incorrect a 
 description of the whole pass as an almost level one " * * * 
 " Beyond the wood, the valley takes a winding course into the plain, 
 and consists of an unbroken flax and raupo swamp. This is appa- 
 rently of easy drainage, but at any rate the road might be continued 
 at the most trifling expense, about the foot of the fern hills, which 
 rise with a gentle ascent on the E. side of the valley. Thence 
 it would have to cross a patch of wood at the foot of the hill, in 
 which the massacre of 1843 took place.-f It should then be carried 
 across the Wairau Plain to the highest reach of the river, which is 
 at all seasons deep and tranquil, and where a ferry would have to be 
 established." 
 
 It would be easy, according to the Report, to make a 
 
 " road from the pass to the point proposed, by the high strips of 
 ground covered with strong fern, and stretching along the banks of 
 
 * See Appendix to First Report of New Zealand Company. 
 t About 2 miles from the head of Newton Bay, are the head 
 waters of the Tua Marino, a tributary of the Wairau, which joins it 
 at that spot. The whole length of the pass, from Newton Bay to 
 the banks of the Wairau, is about 10 miles. Its direction is nearly 
 due N. and S.
 
 SITE OF PROJECTED TOWN. 229 
 
 the river at tins part of its course. This seems to be all thnt is 
 requisite to connect Newton Bay with the Wiurau plain, and the 
 districts immediately to the S. of it." 
 
 " For a town site, the land at the head of Newtou. Bay presents 
 all the requisite capabilities in a most satisfactory degree. Between 
 the bay and the valley at the back, spreads a flat, which contains 
 between 300 and 300 acres of land, at the most moderate com- 
 putation. A little river winds through it, which, though not 
 navigable for boats for many yards above its mouth, may be con- 
 sidered sufficient to supply a town with fresh water all the year 
 round. Two or three other small brooks were still running in 
 the Midsummer months. There is plenty of timber, for building 
 and fuel, in tlie wooded valley behind, and on most of the neigh- 
 bouring hills ; and the flat is sufficiently high in most places, to 
 make drainage easy. The water frontage strictly belonging to the 
 town site is not very considerable, but may extend to a quarter of 
 a mile in length, the best part of it being funned by a low abrupt 
 bank, on which the town flat terminates in the middle of the head 
 of the bay. A little creek, or lagoon, on the E. side of this, is 
 separated from the bay itself by a narrow spit or bank of mud, which 
 boats might pass at high water. The shore round this might be 
 included in the water frontage, which, however, might be indefinitely 
 extended by building at the foot of the hills on each side of the head 
 of the bay ; where, as has been said, are from 4 to 5 fathoms' water 
 a boat's length off shore." 
 
 " But all these latter advantages are doubled by the existence of 
 another bay or cove in the immediate neighbourhood of the one just 
 described. This cove, which it has been proposed to call Milton 
 Bay, lies a little to the N.E. of it, and is separated from it by 
 a narrow neck or peninsula of hills, joined to the main land by a 
 level isthmus. The level spreads round the heads of both bays, 
 running about 3 miles in length, by half a mile in breadth, from 
 the top of one bay to that of the other, and losing itself in the Pass. 
 There is, in fact, one extensive town-site abutting on two bays. 
 Milton Bay is in itself also an excellent harbour, though more open 
 to the Sound than the other; the soundings are as regular, the 
 water generally as deep. The only circumstances that make it 
 inferior to Newton Bay being; first, that the water shoals more 
 gradually in the former than in the latter, so that the 3^ and 4 
 fathoms' depth, which is found 100 yards from the shore in Newton 
 Bay, is 300 yards, at least, off shore in Milton Bay ; and, secondly, 
 that the bay itself is 3 miles further from the Wairau plain. The 
 first circumstances would make the throwing out of wharves into 
 deep water three times as expensive as it would be in Newton Bay. 
 The second would increase the expense of the road, and the distance 
 to carry produce ; although, as the additional track consists of firm 
 and level land, the increased expense of the road would be but trifling." 
 X
 
 230 TORY CHANNEL. 
 
 " Shakspeare Bay lies immediately to the westward of Newton 
 Bny. But a range or two of hills lie between it and the Wairau 
 Pass. The three harbours, however, are so close to each other, as 
 to constitute one group.' 1 
 
 There is but little level land on the shores of Queen 
 Charlotte Sound. The writer in the Nelson Examiner, 
 nlready quoted, says 
 
 " The only available land at Queen Charlotte Sound, is at its W. 
 arm, where probably, in detached situations, 5000 acres may be found 
 of very fertile character, exclusive of that contained in the Waitohe 
 Pass, which, with some tributary valleys, may amount to 10,000 
 acres. The Kaituna Pass, leading from the Pelorus to the Wairau 
 Plain, has been estimated to contain 10,000 acres of desirable land." 
 
 About 100 natives live and cultivate small patches 
 of land, at a spot near Ship Cove, and also at another 
 on the shores of East Bay. They catch large quanti- 
 ties of fish, whether with the hooks or with nets. 
 
 There is a small native village at Newton Bay; 
 another called Mohio, on the south shore of Tory 
 Channel; and two larger ones on the island of Arapawa, 
 near its E. entrance. These are called Hokikari and 
 Wekanui. All these villages together have perhaps 
 a population of 300 souls. 
 
 Near the Eastern entrance there is also a whaling 
 village. The native name of this place is Te-awa-iti, 
 or " The little Stream;" but it is more generally called 
 " Tar-white" by the whalers. This was the earliest 
 European settlement in Cook's Strait, having been 
 formed by sealers in the year 1827, and since inhabited 
 by whalers, and runaway sailors, and convicts, from 
 the Australian Colonies. In 1839 this village had 
 about 100 European inhabitants, and six or seven boats 
 were fitted out there for the whale-fishery. Since that 
 time new whaling stations have been formed in other 
 places, and some of the population has been drawn 
 away to them. It still, however, fits out two or three 
 whale-boats, the necessary supplies for the station being 
 bought, and the oil and bone sold, at Wellington. 
 
 The Eastern entrance of Tory Channel should not
 
 TIDE IN COOK'S STRAIT. 231 
 
 be attempted, except with a fair wind and tide, with- 
 out an experienced pilot. It is exceedingly narrow, 
 and the tide very rapid, both at ebb and flow. 
 
 Queen Charlotte Sound, from its N. to its S. entrance, 
 has ample depth of water for the largest line-of-battle 
 ships: so deep, indeed, is the mid-channel, that fast 
 anchorage must be sought in the bays on either hand. 
 
 Wellington Head, between Cape Koumaru and the 
 S. entrance of the Sound, is the point of the Middle 
 Island nearest to the North Island. The narrowest 
 part of Cook's Strait, between this headland and Cape 
 Terawiti, is 17 miles across. Between Wellington 
 Head and Cape Koumaru, a group of rocky islets 
 called the Brothers lie, about a mile off the shore. A 
 dangerous rock, covered at high-tide, is situated about 
 4 m. N.TS. of this group.* 
 
 The tide in Cook's Strait flows to the N. about 5 
 hours, and ebbs to the S. upwards of 7. Strong 
 tide-rips, or races, are formed in different parts of 
 the Strait, in which a short, violent sea, resembling 
 breakers, prevails in rough weather. The flood-tide 
 enters at the S. entrance of Queen Charlotte Sound, 
 flows through Tory Channel, and up the wider portion 
 of the Sound, until it meets the flood from the Strait, 
 near Long Island, at the N. entrance; and the ebb 
 returns by the same route. But the numerous 
 channels between the islands, and the peculiar forma- 
 tion of the land, together with the great force of 
 the tide setting either way through Cook's Strait 
 generally require much experience and observation in 
 order thoroughly to know their effects. 
 
 S. of the entrance of Tory Channel, a rugged and 
 barren coast stretches in a S.E. direction for about 17 
 miles. The principal points along this coast are the 
 Coomb Rocks, Fighting Bay, and Rununder Point. 
 
 Beyond this is the entrance of Port Underwood. 
 This harbour lies N. and S. It is about a mile wide 
 at its entrance, and 5 or 6 miles in length, widening 
 * See page 93.
 
 232 PORT UNDERWOOD. 
 
 a little inside up to its N. end, where two smaller and 
 well-sheltered bays branch off right and left. In the 
 principal harbour there is excellent anchorage; but the 
 8. part of it is much exposed to the southerly gales, 
 which send in a heavy, rolling swell. 
 
 The harbour is surrounded by lofty and barren 
 mountains, especially on the western side. There is 
 but very little level land on any part of its shores; the 
 easiest road from one cove to the other being in a boat, 
 in order to avoid climbing over the steep spurs which 
 separate them from one another. 
 
 A station, fitted from "Wellington, is generally esta- 
 blished here for the whale fishery, during the season, 
 which sends out two or three boats. It is also a 
 favourite resort for whaling vessels, as they can here 
 combine the process of refitting with the procuring 
 part of their cargo. 
 
 There are generally a few natives living in a village 
 near the mouth of the harbour; but except on the 
 occasion of a festival, there are rarely more than thirty 
 or forty of them here, the barren clay land in the im- 
 mediate vicinity being unfavourable to their rude 
 system of cultivation. 
 
 The European population varies very much; amount- 
 ing sometimes, during the whaling season, to 70 or 
 100 persons, who are almost all distributed among the 
 other settlements as soon as the season is over. 
 
 S. of Port Underwood, the coast continues steep and 
 rocky for about 6 miles. The coast then trends out to 
 the E.; the hilly range recedes towards the S.W.; and 
 a broad sandy beach extends across the W. end of the 
 Wairau plain. 
 
 The Wairau River rises among the mountains to the 
 S.W., in about the latitude of 42 S., at a distance of 
 about 60 miles in a straight line, and about 70 or 80 
 miles by its windings, from its mouth in Cloudy Bay. 
 Some of its head waters are only divided by a single 
 range from those of the AVaimea and Motueka rivers, 
 which flow into Blind Bay near Nelson, and from
 
 WAIRAU RIVEK. 233 
 
 those of the Buller river, which flows into the sea oil 
 the W. coast, a few miles N. of Cape Foulwind. Two 
 of its northern tributaries rise in still closer proximity 
 tu the Kaituna and Waitohe streams, which flow 
 respectively into Pelorus and Queen Charlotte Sounds. 
 The passes between these N., W., and E. waters are 
 more or less practicable, and all afford facilities for the 
 construction of good roads to unite the respective 
 districts. 
 
 There is a bar at the entrance of the Wairau, which 
 renders it difficult of access, except in boats and in 
 calm weather. In the Report already quoted from, 
 the Committee, comparing Port Underwood and New- 
 ton Bay, as sites for a shipping-town to the Wairau 
 Plain, say: 
 
 " You may send produce down the Wnirnu river to Cloudy Bay, 
 and so to Port Underwood, the distance being 10 miles. But the 
 river has a bar across its mouth, which makes this an operation 
 not to be risked with any wind hut one ofi' shore. TLe N.W. 
 wind is such a wind. It generally prevails, and then the bar is 
 crossed with safety. But whenever this wind is violent, there is 
 the impossibility, for small vessels certainly, to get into Port Under- 
 wood ; while nothing but boats, or decked vessels of very small 
 draught, could cross the bar at all. The depth of water on the 
 bar was said by some persons to be 8 feet, by others 15. What 
 is en-tain is, that it varies according to the previous weather, a 
 continuance of S.E. winds raising the bar considerably, while 
 N.W. gales, or large floods in the Wairau river, probably lower 
 it as much. The delays and risks to be created by this obstacle in 
 the export or import of any goods will, it is evident, be great and 
 expensive. 
 
 " The communication by land presents nearly equal difficulties. 
 The hills which bound the Wairau plains on the N., turning off 
 almost at right angles, are continued till they form the W. side 
 of Port Underwood, leaving a space of miles between the plain 
 and the port, where their bases arc washed by the sea. Along the 
 whole of this distance, with the exception of two places, where they 
 recede and form two small coves, open to the S.E., their declivities 
 are abruptly cut oft' seaward into craggy clifis and broken rocks, 
 hanging over and jutting out into the sea, and split and shattered 
 into every variety of ruggedness." 
 
 Inside the bar, the river is navigable for boats and 
 barges for four or five miles. 
 x2
 
 234 WAIRAU AND 
 
 The Wairau plain is about 7 or 8 miles wide at the 
 E. end, adjoining Cloudy Bay; chiefly consisting of 
 open country, but dotted with groves of timber. At 
 the distance of 10 or 15 miles from the sea, the valley 
 narrows to a mile, and even less. Here there is less 
 wood. 
 
 S. of the "Wairau plain, the range mentioned be- 
 fore (see page 214), does not continue steep down to 
 the sea; but extensive upland pastures, of excellent 
 quality, stretch from above the remarkable cliff called 
 the White Bluff, which forms the S. headland of Cloudy 
 Bay, back for 30 miles to the S.W., in a breadth N. 
 and S. of about 10 miles, separating the "Wairau plain 
 from another called Kaipara-te-ao. 
 
 A river so called flows into the sea, between the 
 "White Bluff and Cape Campbell, watering a plain re- 
 sembling that of the Wairau in its general character, 
 but not quite so large. 20,000 acres have, however, 
 been laid out in it for rural sections. 
 
 Between this last plain and the east coast, low grassy 
 downs, well adapted for pastoral purposes, extend as 
 far south as the Kaikora, or Lookers'-on Inlet, about 
 60 or 70 miles S.E. of Cape Campbell. 
 
 The writer in the Nelson Examiner, already quoted, 
 thus roughly estimates the quantity of land in this part 
 of the district to be surveyed for the use of the Nelson 
 Settlement: 
 
 " The level land in the broad part of the Wairau Valley, including 
 Kaiparate-ao, amounts to about 100,000 acres, and probably the 
 tributary valleys and low hills may give 4.0,000 or 50,000 more, 
 adapted for pasturage more particularly. The gorge of the Wairau 
 has, before now, been estimated at 50,000 acres, more particularly 
 adapted for sheep-feeding. Of the 100,000 acres in the plain, 
 GO.OOO may probably be set down as available for agriculture, and 
 of the remainder there possibly will be found some adjoining the 
 river at the upper part of the plain equally desirable. The agricul- 
 tural portion of the Wairau Plain is assumed to comprise Kaipara- 
 te-ao, and the tract of country contained within the hilly boundaries 
 on either side, extending about ten miles from the coast. The 
 progress of the surveys, and a closer examination of the land, may, 
 however, somewhat modify this statement."
 
 KAIPARA-TE-AO PLAIN-. '2:35 
 
 No natives whatever permanently inhabit this dis- 
 trict; and though a few sometimes come from Cloudy 
 Bay to a small village near the mouth of the river, for 
 the sake of fishing, they have not cultivated more than 
 five acres of hind in the whole valley and plain. 
 
 All the disputes as to the Company's title to the 
 land here have been recently arranged by Governor 
 Grey, who has agreed to pay the natives concerned the 
 sum of 30007. for their claim. 
 
 In the course of these disputes, the fatal massacre of 
 Wairau occurred, on the 17th of June, 1843. It is 
 needless to enter into the details of that lamentable 
 event. The victims, twenty-two in number, including 
 Captain Arthur Wakefield, and other leading men 
 among the first Colonists of Nelson, lie buried on the 
 spot where the massacre took place, on the east bank 
 of the tributary stream called the Tua Marino, near its 
 confluence with the main river. 
 
 The attention of some of the Wellington settlers has 
 been recently called to the advantages held out by the 
 extensive tract of rich pasture country on the south- 
 eastern side of this district. Mr. Clifford, in the years 
 1846-7, received upwards of 3000 sheep from Sydney, 
 which were landed at Port Underwood. He has formed 
 a sheep-station, as a squatter, in the neighbourhood of 
 Cape Campbell; and employs a vessel of ten tons, built 
 at Wellington, to run between that place and his sta- 
 tion. His example has been followed on a smaller 
 scale by several other Wellington Colonists. 
 
 On the W. coast, about 10 miles S.W. of Cape 
 Farewell, there is a very good harbour for small 
 I, called South Wanganui. Here there are ex- 
 tensive coal beds, equally easy of access with those in 
 Massacre Bay, which are probably portions of the same 
 formation. 
 
 As far as Rocky Point, about 35 miles S.W. of 
 South Wanganui, the coast is rocky and iron-bound; 
 steep spurs from the high mountains, composed of 
 granite and gneiss, come down into the sea. The
 
 236 RIVER BULLER. 
 
 coast then trends nearly due S., and bears the same 
 character for 14 miles, a snowy range approaching 
 close to the sea. Numerous small streams have their 
 mouths along this coast; and there are two larger ones, 
 the Wakapori, 5 miles S. of Rocky Point, and the 
 Haihai, at its southernmost extremity. Then succeeds 
 a sandy beach for 16 miles, with 5000 or 10,000 acres 
 of low, level land at its back, through which the 
 Karamea river flows. The coast again takes a S.S.W. 
 direction, and iron-bound character, for about 10 miles, 
 at the end of which is the mouth of the Mokihinui 
 river. 8 miles further, along a sandy beach, to which, 
 however, the mountains approach closely, is the mouth 
 of the Ngakuhau river. 
 
 Here the mountains continue in a due S. direction, 
 while the low sandy coast trends gradually S.W. and 
 "W. to Cape Foulwind. In the bight of the bay thus 
 formed, which faces the N., is the mouth of the Buller 
 river, in latitude about 41 45' S. This is about 18 
 miles S.W. of the mouth of the Ngakuhau, and 10 
 miles E. of Cape Foulwind. 
 
 From that cape, the coast again lies N. and S., 
 for about 10 miles, sandy and low; then an isolated 
 ridge reaches the sea from the main range of moun- 
 tains. Cape Foulwind itself and the immediately 
 neighbouring land is high and rocky, but a wide tract 
 of low, level, wooded country, of the most fertile cha- 
 racter, amounting probably to 30,000 or 40,000 acres 
 of land, occupies the space on either bank of the Buller, 
 which traverses it for about 10 or 12 miles, between 
 the mountains and the sea. 
 
 Although larger than any of the rivers between it 
 and Cape Farewell, the Buller appears unavailable for 
 navigation to any but small craft, having a shallow en- 
 trance. It takes its rise in the lakes Arthur and 
 Howick, which have been before mentioned,* and which 
 are situated amidst the mountains, in the heart of a 
 
 * See page 43.
 
 LAKES ARTHUR AND HO WICK. 237 
 
 very picturesque country, about 40 miles S.S.W. of 
 Nelson in a direct line. In the same neighbourhood 
 the Motupiko, Motueka, and Wairau rivers have their 
 sources. 
 
 Lake Arthur, about 4 miles long, N. and S., by one 
 mile broad, is only separated by one ridge of hills from 
 the Wairau. The main stream of the Buller flows out 
 of the N. end of the lake. 
 
 Lake Howick, 8 miles long, N. and S., by one 
 broad, lies 10 miles W. of Lake Arthur, separated 
 from it by the spurs of a neighbouring snow-covered 
 range to the S. A tributary stream of the Buller flows 
 out of its N. end. 
 
 Narrow tracts of land available for tillage, varying in 
 extent from 500 to 3000 or 4000 acres, lie in these val- 
 leys; and a great part of the mountainous country which 
 girds them is excellently adapted for pasturage. They 
 are, however, difficult of access, either from Nelson or 
 from the W. coast. Below the Aglionby valley, which 
 is the largest of these tracts fitted for tillage, and 
 which lies about 13 miles W. of Lake Howick, the 
 Buller plunges into mountain gorges, and traverses a 
 snowy range. It is about 15 miles in a straight 
 line E. and W., from this spot to the egress of the 
 river on to the level plain near its mouth; and the only 
 part of its course which has been explored below the 
 Aglionby valley, is that immediately contiguous to the 
 sea-coast. S. of the ridge mentioned as bounding 
 the great plain of the Buller, a small river, the 
 Ngawaipakiri, has its mouth; and here there appears 
 to be another tract of level country, amounting pro- 
 bably to about 5000 acres, and extending 8 miles along 
 the coast. 
 
 An iron-bound coast, and mountains close to the sea, 
 again succeed for 19 miles, with the exception of a 
 beach about 8 miles long, not backed by any level 
 country. 
 
 The coast is then again low, with sandy beach, for
 
 238 RIVER GREY. 
 
 about 30 miles, as far as Bold Head. In this space 
 are the mouths of three rivers, the Grey, the Terama- 
 kau, and the Greenstone, or Arahura River. Of these 
 the Grey is the principal. Its mouth is in latitude 
 about 42 32' S. Like the Buller, its entrance is un- 
 available for more than small craft. 
 
 Here there is a great extent of level, fertile, wooded 
 land. The valley of the Grey, which stretches inland 
 towards the E. and N.E., appears to keep a breadth of 
 20 or 25 miles, as far as can be seen from the 
 coast. The mountains between the valley of the 
 Grey and that of the Greenstone do not approach 
 within 30 miles of the coast; and a few natives, who live 
 at the mouth of the latter river, report that there is an 
 easy communication, by the valley which it forms, 
 across the island to Banks's Peninsula. They speak 
 of a large lake on the path, and of a vast extent of 
 level grassy plains. 
 
 Bold Head is in about 42 50' S. latitude. The 
 general direction of the coast from Cape Foulwind to 
 Bold Head is about S.S.W. 
 
 These particulars are gathered from the interesting 
 journals, maps, and sketches of two separate exploring 
 parties from Nelson.* The first, in 1845-6, was 
 headed by Mr. W. Fox, then Agent of the Company 
 at Nelson, and proceeded by the Waimea and Motupiko 
 valleys to explore the Lakes, and to the W. end of the 
 Aglionby valley. The second, starting in March, 
 1846, consisted of Messrs. Brunner and Heaphy, the 
 latter of whom had accompanied Mr. Fox. They 
 walked along the W. coast from South Wanganui to 
 the Greenstone, and endured considerable hardships 
 and privations in their journey there and back. 
 
 There are only two native villages along that coast; 
 at the Greenstone river, and a few miles N. of the 
 Buller. The population of both together probably does 
 not amount to 100 souls. 
 
 * To be seen at New Zealand House, on application to the 
 Secretary.
 
 AVAILABLE LAND. 
 
 239 
 
 Tbe following, by the before -mentioned writer in the Kelson 
 Examiner, is a rough summary of the probable amount of compara- 
 tively level land within the supposed Boundaries of the Nelson Set- 
 tlement : 
 
 DISTRICT. 
 
 Gross Amount 
 of Land 
 surveyed or 
 supposed to be 
 comparatively 
 level. 
 
 Estimated 
 Amount of Lane 
 of fair average 
 quality, imme- 
 diately available 
 for cultivation. 
 
 MASSACRE BAT 
 
 Acres. 
 15000 
 
 Acres. 
 10000 
 
 (() Takaka and Motupipi 
 BLIKD BAY. 
 (c) Motueka 
 
 30,000 
 10000 
 
 15,000 
 5 000 
 
 (rf) Moutere Cliffs 
 
 15000 
 
 
 (f) M outere Wood 
 
 ,-,'IH.. i 
 
 
 (/) Upper Motueka and Motu- 
 piko 
 
 18000 
 
 5000 
 
 (g) Wai-iti and tributaries .... 
 (li) Nelson Suburbs, Waimea 
 West, and Waimea Islands 
 (i) PELOBCS, including Kaituna 
 Pass and tributaries .... 
 (Is) QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOPKD, 
 including Waitohe Pass 
 and tributaries 
 
 6,000 
 7,000 
 15,000 
 
 *15,000 
 
 5,000 
 2,000 
 15,000 
 
 15,000 
 
 (/) WAIRAC. 
 
 *on 000 ) 
 
 
 Wairau Plain 
 
 100,000 > 
 
 00,000 
 
 Wairau Vallev 
 
 50,000) 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 306,000 
 
 i.^.ooo 
 
 "GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICTS. 
 
 (a) Heavily timbered with rata, kaikatea, mai, rimu, and tawai or 
 black birch. (6) A small portion open laud covered with fern and 
 the usual herbage on alluvial soil ; the rest with timber as above. 
 but less rata, and many totara trees in some spots, (c) Some hilly, 
 opeu, and timbered land ; much good soil, but very difficult of 
 A few rich timber sections on the banks of the river. 
 (./i Barren clay hills, covered with stunted fern and manuka. A 
 small portion of rather better land near the cliffs, (e) Low undu- 
 lating clay lulls, covered with tawai and rimu principally. C/) A
 
 240 CLIMATE OF 
 
 large portion consists of very broken ground, covered with fern, 
 toitoi, grass, and tall manuka. About Lalf the Motupiko gorge is 
 timbered, but the land is poor: the land below the junction of the 
 two rivers is best. The tract is well suited for pasturage, but is 
 much subject to floods. (#) A series of narrow gorges, covered 
 with flax, fern, and grass ; the soil supposed to be of medium quality. 
 (A) The best portion of this is marshy ground, covered with flax, 
 raupo, and grass, and is easy of drainage. The land at Waimea 
 West consists of barren clay hills, and the Waimea Islands are little 
 better than sand hillocks. () The greater portion timbered laud, 
 said to be fertile. (&) The greater portion finely timbered with 
 totara, pine, hinau, &c., and the soil generally very productive. 
 (/) The prevailing character of this tract of land is decidedly pas- 
 toral, more especially at Kaiparate-ao, the upper part of the plain, 
 and most of the valley. The portion most suited for agriculture 
 lies within the lower half of the plain, and at Kaiparate-ao ; some 
 of it is swampy, and said to be difficult of drainage. There is not 
 much bush or timber land on it. 
 
 " N.B. The asterisk prefixed to some of the figures denotes that 
 the quantities are only roughly estimated by the eye or from vague 
 information. All the other data are compiled from the actual sur- 
 veys and information derived from personal inspection." 
 
 The Climate of the Nelson district generally, is very 
 nearly the same as that of the Wellington district: but 
 the country in the immediate vicinity of Blind Bay, in- 
 cluding the site of Nelson, differs from that of the Town 
 and neighbourhood of Wellington, in its remarkable 
 immunity from frequent or violent winds. 
 
 Blind Bay has often been compared to one of those 
 bays in the Mediterranean, to the head of which the 
 wind scarcely ever blows home. The following ex- 
 tracts are descriptive of this peculiarity: 
 
 " The climate in this deep bight of a bay is very remarkable. The 
 wind which blows almost incessantly one way or the other through 
 Cook's Strait, seems suddenly to lose its power before reaching the 
 southern part of Blind Bay. Thus it is common for a vessel to be 
 under double-reefed top-sails in the strait, and to have her sails all 
 Happing in a calm soon after she has passed D'Urville Island or 
 Massacre Bay. And I frequently observed that the speed and di 
 rection of the scud overhead, and driving masses of black clouds on 
 the northern horizon, indicated a storm outside, when all near Nelson 
 lay calm and slumbering, except a heavier swell than usual rolling 
 on to the shoals at the bottom of the gulf. And in those cases, a 
 little coaster, which had been out in the gale, would confirm our
 
 NELSON. 241 
 
 conjectures on arriving a day or two later. During the month 
 (April, lH-f-2,) I only saw one day on which it blew a hard breeze; 
 and then two large vessels rode it out in perfect safety in the anchor- 
 age outside the bar, although the wind was nearly due north. Now 
 and then a light sea-breeze would bring welcome refreshment for 
 two or three hours during the afternoon." .., 
 
 " This very remarkable immunity from wind causes an almost in- 
 credible difference between the climate of Nelson and that of Wel- 
 lington, although the two towns are as nearly as possible in the same 
 latitude." Wakeftcld's 'Adventure in New Zealand,' vol. ii. 
 chap. vii. 
 
 The general aspect of Blind Bay, too, and especially 
 of the Town of Nelson, is towards the warm north; 
 while it is sheltered by very lofty mountains from the 
 cold southerly winds which blow direct on to Wellington 
 from the sea. 
 
 Thus > Nelson, together with its immediate vicinity, 
 enjoys more calm, and more hot weather, than Wel- 
 lington; while at the same time the proximity of such 
 high land appears to cause night-frosts, which are more 
 frequent and more severe than at Wellington. All 
 persons who have lived some years at Nelson, agree in 
 praising the weather there. The following is extracted 
 from the letter of a resident, dated May 4, 1846: 
 
 " The Nelson climate is that of Paradise. To-day, for instance, 
 it is equal, you know, to the 4th of November in England; I am in 
 white trousers, summer waistcoat, and light shooting -coat ; the sun 
 is very hot, and walking half a mile makes one sweat heavily ; there 
 is hardly a breath of air ; the sea is blue as the sky, and the ships as 
 well as mountains on the other side of the bay reflected in the water 
 as in a glass. It has been this weather for a week, and will continue 
 all this moon. At full and change there will be two days' rain, and 
 then fine hot weather again. The trees, grass, and flowers, are 
 springing as if it were early summer, and all vegetation is deliciously 
 green." 
 
 Of the following Meteorological Registers, No. I., 
 being for the year 1846, was kept at the residence of 
 Mr. Stephens, Rewaka, in the Motueka district. The 
 observations were made in an exposed situation, out of 
 doors, but quite sheltered from the rays of the sun, two 
 miles distant from, and about fifty feet above the level 
 V
 
 242 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL TABLES 
 
 of the sea. No. II. was kept on the Waimea Plain, 
 from September 1, 1846, to August 31, 1847, by Mr. 
 J. W. Barnicoat. The site of the observations is the 
 open plain, about two or three miles from any hills, 
 and about fifteen feet above the level of the sea. In the 
 absence of a self-registering thermometer, the height of 
 the thermometer about an hour before sunrise is taken 
 as the nearest approximation to the minimum, and from 
 about half-past one to half-past two (according to the 
 season) as the maximum. 
 
 I. Meteorological Register for 1846, kept at 
 Rewaka. 
 
 
 THERMOMETER. 
 
 WEATHER. 
 
 
 
 
 
 |l 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 K 
 
 
 
 MONTHS. 
 
 if 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 ( 
 
 O 
 
 = 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 PK 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 1 
 K 
 
 1 
 
 
 J 
 
 a 
 
 s 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 5 CJ3 
 
 gt, 
 
 
 
 
 
 K 
 3 
 
 m 
 
 JS 
 
 & 
 1? 
 
 nuous 
 
 i 
 
 
 1 
 
 * 
 
 1 
 
 
 I 
 
 a 
 
 B 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 o 
 O 
 
 
 
 January 
 
 
 74 
 
 72 
 
 70 
 
 
 83 
 
 18 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 71 
 
 70 
 
 68 
 
 
 77 
 
 15 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 69 
 
 6ft 
 
 65J 
 
 
 76 
 
 
 2 
 
 ft 
 
 2 
 
 o 
 
 April 
 
 
 
 64 
 
 
 
 67 
 
 20 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 May 
 
 
 604 
 
 60 
 
 56 
 
 
 65 
 
 22 
 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 
 n 
 
 56 
 
 54 
 
 50 
 
 39 
 
 66 
 
 ir. 
 
 I 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 July 
 
 40 
 
 57 
 
 55 
 
 50 
 
 30 
 
 61 
 
 H) 
 
 5 
 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 
 Mi 
 
 58 
 
 55 
 
 50 
 
 99 
 
 65 
 
 n 
 
 
 13 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 September 
 
 34* 
 
 
 61 
 
 55 
 
 29 
 
 72 
 
 23 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 October 
 
 404 
 
 67 
 
 63 
 
 594 
 
 34 
 
 87 
 
 18 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 November 
 
 404 
 
 72 
 
 68 
 
 634 
 
 34 
 
 84 
 
 18 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 
 
 December. 
 
 424 
 
 75 
 
 704 
 
 67 
 
 37 
 
 89 
 
 22 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 Whole year 
 
 39 
 
 653 
 
 63J 
 
 69i 
 
 29 
 
 89 
 
 224 
 
 39 
 
 84 
 
 18 
 
 55
 
 FOR NELSON DISTRICT. 
 
 -243 
 
 AUB uo 
 
 ME 
 DE 
 
 jCa uo is 
 
 ioTC jsoj j 
 
 saqouj uj 
 
 KjlJS J JO A\I3AVOqg 
 
 juq 's-CB 
 
 SjfQ Xaung 3UTj 
 
 saoj 
 
 -.iuub jotno tuo.i j
 
 244 METEOROLOGY. 
 
 The Nelson Examiner* thus comments on these 
 Tables: 
 
 " The statistics of the weatber, as given in No. I., would probably 
 require some slight modification with reference to the locality of the 
 Town, in various particulars ; but it may be assumed that tbe differ- 
 ence would not be very material in the aggregate details throughout 
 the year. Rewaka is distant from Nelson about twenty miles, in a 
 north-westerly direction across the Bay, and consequently is thus 
 much nearer to the quarter whence apparently the greatest amount 
 of rain proceeds, which circumstance would account for the suppo- 
 sition that showers are more frequent there than at Nelson or in the 
 Waimea district. The fact, also, of its position under the hills, 
 which shelter it from the south and south-westerly winds, tends to 
 confirm the opinion that the range of the thermometer is rarely so 
 low as in the town. In other respects, probably, the tabular columns, 
 &c. would not exhibit any striking variation." 
 
 " The prevalent winds in fine weather, during the greater part of 
 the year, are from N.E. and S.W., usually termed sea and land 
 breezes. During the summer months, which may be said to include 
 December, January, February, and March, the sea-breeze is usually 
 fresh, sets in from nine to eleven, A.M., and continues from four to 
 six, P.M. In the months of April, May, June, July, and August, the 
 breezes are usually much lighter than in the summer, the S.W. and 
 westerly winds being rather more prevalent. During September, 
 October, and November, the wind is more variable than in the pre- 
 ceding months, the southerly and south-easterly being often accom- 
 panied by strong gusts ; heavy gales seeming to be more prevalent 
 than at other periods. The N.W and W. appear to be the most 
 rainy quarters, but the gusty squalls from the S.E. often bring heavy 
 storms." 
 
 " The different phases of the moon are almost invariably accom- 
 panied by an apparent or real change in the state of the weather. 
 That is to say, at every change of the moon's quarter during fine 
 weather, either the sky becomes obscured, or actual rainy weather 
 in a greater or less degree occurs." * * * * 
 
 " Comparing this (No. II.) with the one for the preceding twelve- 
 months, it exhibits a higher temperature throughout the year. In 
 1840-0, the thermometer only rose to 80, and that but in the mouth 
 of December; whereas last summer it rose to 88, and stood as high 
 as 80, both in November and February. In the winter, also, of 
 1816, both in June and July, the mercury was down to 24 and 24, 
 while '2Q has been the minimum in the winter we have just passed. 
 In the mean highest for the year there is, therefore, an advance of 
 three degrees, and in the mean lowest two degrees. The number of 
 
 * The local newspaper, published at Nelson.
 
 SOIL. ROADS. 245 
 
 frosty mornings has also been fur less than in the preceding year; 
 in I M.I ."Mi they numbered fifty-four, the present table givt^s only 
 thirty-four. The quantity of rain which fell last year was not so 
 great by four inches us in the year preceding, and there were twenty- 
 three days Jess on which rain fell. In bright sunny days there was 
 a slight increase." 
 
 The Soil varies, as on the other side of the Strait, 
 according to the different circumstances under which 
 the land has been formed. Thus, there is every va- 
 riety of superficial soil to be found in the district, from 
 barren rock and sand-hummocks, or clay lands unpro- 
 ductive until they have been manured, or exposed to 
 the fertilizing influence of the atmosphere to the 
 richest alluvial deposit. The sub-strata, also, are 
 nearly the same, except that limestone and coal are 
 found together, and also granite in the western parts of 
 the district. 
 
 The Roads already made to the country districts, 
 early in 1845, were as follows: 
 
 One from Nelson to beyond the village of Wakefield, in the valley 
 called Glen-iti, twenty-one miles. This road, for the first two miles 
 from town, wanted gravelling to be good in winter; also for a mile 
 six miles from town, and at a few other places. During the dry 
 months, (eight out of twelve,) a coach and four might be driven all 
 the way to Glen-iti ; and Mr. Stafford and the Hon. A. C. Dillon 
 contrived to get their gigs from the Waimea through the worst parts 
 all the preceding winter. The cross roads from this line amounted 
 to eight miles ; they ' open out and drain various blocks of land, 
 much resorted to. From Glen-iti, pack-horses or bullocks can 
 travel all the way to the big wood at the south-east end of the 
 Wairau Valley without difficulty at all seasons. The wood, twelve 
 miles in extent, could easily be cut through, being of black birch 
 without underwood. Parts only of the road from the Waimea to 
 Motueku, equal in all to ten miles, had been made. There was, 
 however, a good horse track over the hills in those parts in which it 
 was not complete. From Motueka to Rewaka, three miles and a 
 half were made. Of the road to Wakapuaka and the Happy Valley, 
 nine miles were completed ; very little was wanted to make it a good 
 cart and horse road at all seasons. The roads above enumerated 
 pass ground of various kinds through swamps, woods, or fern 
 and required in some places heavy cuttings, or embankments, in 
 many drainage, in some only cutting of the fern. 
 
 About the Town were the Haven Road, one mile and a half, the 
 Y2
 
 246 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 sea-wall much damaged ; beyond the town sections, that to Brook 
 Street Valley, one mile ; up the Maitai, half a mile. Total extent 
 of roads, fifty-four miles and a half. 
 
 The Natural Productions, whether indigenous or 
 introduced, are nearly the same as those of the Wel- 
 lington district. Only points of difference will be here 
 noted. 
 
 I. VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 
 Indigenous. 
 
 The Anise plant is very abundant in all the pastoral districts near 
 Nelson ; and, as has been before-mentioned, it much improves the 
 quality of meat fed on land where it grows. A small quantity of oil 
 has already been made from this plant and exported. 
 
 The shores of Pelorus and Queen Charlotte Sounds teem with 
 Timber, of which some kinds, if first thoroughly seasoned, arc par- 
 ticularly well adapted for Cask-staves. Much discredit, however, lias 
 hitherto been cast on this article of export, through the neglect of 
 sufficient seasoning, and through carelessness in cooperage. The 
 casks have been reported against as subject to excessive leakage. 
 
 Introduced. 
 
 Barley and Hops both flourish exceedingly in the districts culti- 
 vated near Nelson. There is no hop-fly or flea. A considerable 
 quantity of Beer is brewed at Nelson, and exported to the other 
 settlements. 
 
 The Vine has not been tried yet, to any extent, only six years 
 having elapsed since the first foundation of the settlement: but it is 
 believed that the great prevalence of calm, hot weather in this dis- 
 trict, would bo peculiarly favourable to its growth and prosperity. 
 Even at Wellington the vine has been found to succeed well in the 
 open air in sheltered situations ; and there is no doubt but that 
 Nelson, although as nearly as possible in the same latitude, is sub 
 ject to far less wind, and enjoys a greater continuance of steady hot 
 weather. 
 
 The following is an extract from the letter of a lady 
 at Nelson, dated October 22nd, 1847: 
 
 " Our garden is now looking uncommonly well, and there is a 
 very large promise of fruit of all kinds cherries, plums, apples, 
 pears, figs, strawberries, gooseberries, and a few peaches. The vines 
 are just beginning to thrust their buds; there is one the 'early 
 black July,' I think it is called that is very much more forward 
 than the rest, and has the bunches formed. I think we shall have 
 great quantities of grapes this year, all the vines look so remarkably
 
 YKtil TABLE: ANIMAL. 247 
 
 healthy. We Lave made an orchard this year, aud grafted some five 
 dozeu apple stocks, so Uiat in three years, which is the age at which 
 apple trees come into bearing in New Zealand, we shall be well 
 stocked with fruit."' 
 
 A short account of most of the Vegetable Productions 
 introduced into the district occurs in the next page, 
 in the extracts from the Report of the Agricultural 
 and Horticultural Society. 
 
 II. ANIMAL PKODUCTIONS. 
 Indigenous. 
 
 Quail abound to a remarkable degree throughout the fern and 
 grass districts, ll'ild IUHJS, also, and the Wood-hen, called Wrka by 
 the natives, (see page 163,) are numerous in all parts hitherto 
 explored. 
 
 There are Shrimps and Oysters. The latter are abundant on 
 several parts of the coast. Their principal haunts hitherto dis- 
 covered are: 1st. The rocks at the entrance of Nelson Haven. 
 2nd. A cove called Oyster Bay, on the eastern side of Tory Channel 
 in Queen Charlotte Sound. 3rd. A cove also called Oyster Bay, 
 at the N.W. end of Port Underwood. 
 
 Introduced. 
 
 The Agricultural and Horticultural Society esta- 
 blished at Nelson, which has fifty members at a guinea 
 a year each, held its Autumnal Meeting on the 10th of 
 March, 1847. (This answers to the 10th of September 
 in England). The following is an account of the pro- 
 ceedings, abridged from the local neM'spaper: 
 
 ' The first day was devoted to a plonghing-match, for bollock- 
 ploughs and for horse-ploughs. The spot selected for it was 
 Mr. Saxton's farm, on the Waimea, about six miles from the town. 
 
 ' In consequence of the short notice given, only eleven ploughs 
 were on the ground, seven of which were bullock-teams, and four 
 horse-ploughs ; had more time been given, there would have been 
 at least double the number. The governor, who happened to be 
 then at Nelson, came on the ground, and generously gave *>/. 5*. as 
 a subscription. The bullock-ploughs were the first to start ; but an 
 accident occurring to one reduced the number to six. 
 
 " The ground to be ploughed was a quarter of an acre, and the 
 time allowed was two hours and twenty minutes. The whole did 
 their work considerably within the specified time. The horse - 
 ploughs followed.''
 
 248 AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY. 
 
 " On the next day, there were given the following AGBICULTUBAI 
 PHIZES: Cart filly, saddle filly, long-wooled ram,bull (second prize ) , 
 best boar, second best ditto, best sow, second best ditto, pair of 
 rabbits, sack of wheat, bushel of ditto, bushel of ditto, sack of barley, 
 ditto (second prize), bushel of oats, sainfoin seed, vetch seed, rye 
 grass seed, Swede turnips, white turnips, mangold wurzel." 
 
 " A capital collection of grass seeds, both native and European, 
 was exhibited, but there was not the required quantity to entitle 
 them to a prize." 
 
 " The exhibition of fruit was highly satisfactory, considering the 
 infancy of the settlement. The show of apples, for quality, would 
 have been creditable to any Society at home. Peaches were also 
 shown in great abundance, many measuring from eight to nine and 
 a half inches in circumference, and the number of such fruit grown 
 on one tree is truly astonishing. Grapes, too, were plentiful, 
 though the vines on which they were grown are necessarily very 
 young. Some required, perhaps, another fortnight to ripen thoroughly, 
 particularly those grown in the open ground; but there is no reason 
 to doubt but the grape will do remarkably well in this settlement. 
 The black Hamburg, which received the first prize, were very fine 
 grapes indeed. The black cluster grape exhibited, was also a 
 delicious fruit. These were the only dark grapes shown, the 
 remainder being all white. There was also a pomegranate exhibited, 
 which had ripened in the open air, and several fine melons. Of 
 course it was too late in the season for many fruits, and, with tlie 
 exception of a few Cape gooseberries, plums, and Alpine strawberries, 
 no others were shown. The show of vegetables was scanty, which 
 was to be expected, after the unusually dry summer. Most of the 
 vegetables shown were, however, fine. The samples of grain were 
 excellent. Among the exhibitors of wheat were Maories,* and a 
 very excellent sample they showed, though they did not get a prize. 
 They bore their loss with the best humour, and seemed thoroughly 
 to understand the principle on which the show was conducted. 
 
 " HOBTICCLTUBAL PHIZES. Dessert apples, kitchen ditto, grapes 
 (first prize), ditto (second prize), peaches (first prize), ditto (second 
 prize), rhubarb, water melon, melon (first prize), ditto (second 
 prize), kitchen plums, tomatas, pumpkin, cucumber, vegetable 
 marrow, nosegay, dahlia, carrots, parsnips, onions, onions (second 
 prize), beet, celery, salading, kidney beans, peas, potatoes, turnips, 
 cabbage, broad beans. 
 
 " HONOBABY PRIZES. Alpine strawberry, kidney- beans, horse 
 radish." 
 
 With regard to Sheep -farming in the Nelson district, 
 the following extract of a letter from one of the leading 
 Colonists, dated 22nd of October, 1847, conveys very 
 valuable information: 
 
 * Natives.
 
 M.I..XHN SHEEP-FARMING. 
 
 ' AttHi-he'l to the liouse, wlticli is a very comfortable cottage, 
 not ugly in appearance, is a garden and orchard of about twenty five 
 acres, and a farm of fifty acres. The former is a never-failing 
 source of amusement to both of us ; whenever at a loss for occupa 
 lion, we take a hoe or a pruuiug-kuife, and sally forth to the garden ; 
 as a great deal there is daily being made, (it being only three years 
 old,) it presents even more than the average choice of occupation. 
 
 " Of the farm, thirty-live acres is made a rotation of crops, the 
 remainder 1 retain in grass, for the use of my horses and cows. 
 
 " I do not farm for profit, at least not as a source of income, (it 
 is of too small an extent to pay largely,) but with a view to raise 
 my own flour, outs, barley, potatoes, and hay ; the present prices 
 anl difficulty of procuring labour, deter many from enlarging their 
 farms. Our principal stock are our sheep, of which we have about 
 1400, running in the Upper Motueka valley, about sixteen miles 
 long, with an average breadth of three-quarters of a mile ; the sta- 
 tion is about twenty-three miles from the house, an easy ride of 
 five hours. 
 
 " I purchased my sheep in April, 1844, from the late Sir John 
 .lamieson, of New South Wales, whose sheep were celebrated for the 
 purity of their Merino blood, he having bred from the Spanish 
 Merino, without any admixture for thirteen years, except a cross 
 with some rams from the Empress Josephine's flock, (the latter 
 were derived from the celebrated Negretti flocks.) I brought down 
 from Sydney thorough bred Merino rams, and some with a cross of 
 Southdown. I find a cross with the latter, though it of course 
 alters the character of the wool, gives additional size, disposi- 
 tion to fatten, and weight of fleece, whilst the mothers are better 
 nurses, particularly in cold weather, and have a tendency to pro- 
 duce more twins than the pnre Merino. Although the wool is 
 not so fine, the greater weight more than makes up for any loss 
 on that head, as from their greater hardihood, they are more adapted 
 for the colder hilly runs ; they are, I think, to be preferred, with 
 say one fourth Southdown, three-fourths Merino blood, to the 
 thoroughbred Merino. In warmer localities near the sea coast, I 
 believe the others, however, (the Merino) to be the most profitable 
 sheep, but I cannot speak decidedly on this head, until after the 
 receipt of more advices as to the sale in the London markets of the 
 different descriptions of wool. 
 
 " One general rule must be borne in mind, that yon must get a 
 very considerable increase of price per Ib. for fine wool, to compen- 
 sate for the loss of weight of fleece and of mutton, and for the want 
 of the more prolific and hardy constitution of the half-bred. As 
 to the Leicester cross, I must strongly condemn it ; the wool is 
 of the worst quality, not to be improved for many generations ; 
 whilst the sheep, although doing well enough, where they have 
 great abundance of food, are not generally adapted for the wild runs
 
 250 SHEEP-FARMING. 
 
 of this country, and the ewes are not sucli good nurses as those 
 with Southdown Wood. A large breeder at Port Philij), who has 
 for many years bred from Leicester rams, has now quite given them 
 up, and lately wrote that he would as soon see a mad dog in his 
 
 flocks as a Leicester ram. Up to the present time, Mr. 's 
 
 sheep aud cattle ran with mine, but the run being now overstocked, 
 his share are to start for the Wairau in a few weeks. Many stations 
 will be formed in the latter district this summer; the settlement of 
 the land claims, and the returns obtained up to the present time 
 from stock-breeding having given a most healthy stimulus to the 
 settlers of Nelson, who, with the exception, perhaps, of those who 
 may have emigrated under the impression that they would make 
 large fortunes here (they do not well know how) are satisfied with 
 their prospects. 
 
 " I really know of no pursuit in which a limited capital, say from 
 1000/. or even less, to f>000/. can be more advantageously employed 
 than in sheep and cattle feeding, whilst literally no skill or previous 
 knowledge of the business is requisite, provided that the new 
 beginner will only keep his eyes out of his pockets, aud judge for 
 himself. 
 
 " I can consequently recommend capitalists of the amount stated 
 above, to come to New Zealand, with all but a certainty of success. 
 
 " For labourers, also, there is steady market, as farm-servants, 
 shepherds, dairymen ; some good shearers are much wanted ; young 
 women, too, are in demand as house-servants, dairywomen, and 
 wives for the bachelor portion of the community. 
 
 " Almost all the ci-devant labourers are now small farmers and 
 stock owners, whilst some have re-emigrated to the other settle- 
 ments, induced by the employment to be obtained on Government 
 works, which absorb all the surplus labour. The young women are 
 all married, and doing their best towards increasing the Anglo- 
 Zealand race. They generally make what are termed good matches, 
 marrying men above themselves in society. 
 
 , " I hope may be successful with the rooks and sparrows ; 
 
 the first would soon find their way over the country, though the 
 sparrows are more local in their habits. Woodcocks, snipes, and 
 partridges, should also be brought out, although there might be a 
 difficulty during the voyage with the two first ; still young ones 
 might succeed, and the country is admirably adapted for them. The 
 two last would be certain to succeed if well looked after ; they do 
 not mind captivity, if kept clean. 
 
 " If swallows, too, could be introduced, they would be a great 
 boon : the flies during the summer months annoy the horses much : 
 I would give 10/. to have a brood of swallows under my stable eave. 
 
 " I have always wished to see red or fallow deer, or both, turned 
 out in New Zealand ; the prairies, from Otago to Port Cooper, are 
 just the place for them, but they would do anywhere in this island.
 
 MINERALS. 251 
 
 " We have had n capital lambing season in the one just over. 
 and myself have had 1 viM per cent, of lambs, all doing well." 
 
 Bees have been introduced; and have succeeded as 
 well as at "Wellington. 
 
 III. MINERAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 Coal is found at South Wangauui ; at Motiipipi in Massacre 
 Bay, where it is worked ; and also in small strata on the east shore 
 of Nelson Haven. It has also recently been discovered in the 
 Wairau Plain. 
 
 Limestone has been discovered in Massacre Bay ; and also at 
 two spots in the immediate vicinity of the town. There are lime- 
 kilns at Massacre Bay, and at a spot about three miles south of the 
 town, in the district called Suburban South. The other limestone 
 quarry is north of Nelson, in the district called Suburban North, 
 and very advantageously situated for a good supply of fire-wood, 
 and for water-carriage. 
 
 There is' plenty of Clay for brick-making, in all parts of the 
 Nelson district; and White Pipe-clay is found at Port Underwood. 
 
 The following is the outline of the Plan on which 
 the Settlement of Nelson was originally founded: 
 
 The settlement was to consist of 201,000 acres, in 1000 allot- 
 ments of 201 acres each. 
 
 Each allotment to consist of three sections, viz., 150 acres of 
 rural land, 50 acres of suburban land, and 1 town acre : the town 
 thus to consist of 1000 acres, exclusive of reserves for public 
 objects. 
 
 The price of each allotment was 300Z. 
 
 As soon as a certain number of allotments had been paid for, a 
 ballot was held, as in the case of the Wellington settlement, (siv 
 p. 175,) in order to establish the order of choice : but with this 
 difference, that a separate ballot was held for town, suburban, and 
 rural sections ; so that the purchaser of an allotment might become 
 entitled to a different order of choice for each of the three section'; 
 included in it. 
 
 The company added a quantity equal to one-tenth of the Settle- 
 ment as Native Reserves, so that the whole land to be appropriated 
 was Q-21,100 acres, and the town was 1100 acres exclusive of public 
 reserves. 
 
 The Company exercised ti right which had been stipulated for, of 
 purchasing 100 allotments for its own benefit, at the same price and 
 'il.jert to the same terms in every respect as other purchasers. 
 
 The Company agreed to expend the purchase-money received in 
 the following proportions : 
 
 One half to the exclusive purpose of Emigration to the settlement
 
 252 DISTRIBUTION OF LAND. 
 
 of Nelson. (Ont of this, 20.000/. was reserved as a Special Fund 
 for making allowances of passage-money to purchasers and their 
 families, according to the discretion of the Directors.) 
 
 One-sixth to defray the Company's expenses in selecting the site 
 and establishing the Settlement. (Any surplus of this fund to he 
 applied to the purpose next mentioned.) 
 
 One-sixth to public purposes, for rendering the Settlement com- 
 modious and attractive, such as Religious uses and endowments for 
 colonists of all denominations, the establishment of a College, and the 
 encouragement of Steam Navigation for the benefit of the Settlement. 
 
 The remaining sixth to the Company, for its expenses, and profit 
 on the use of its capital. 
 
 In exercise of a discretionary power stipulated for by the Company, 
 they reserved 200 allotments for sale in the Australasian Colonies. 
 
 When the purchase-money of 370 allotments had been 
 paid, the whole 1 100 numbers were balloted for, on the 
 31st August, 1841, and an order of choice determined 
 for each of the sections included in each allotment. 
 
 The selections took place in the Colony, as the dis- 
 tricts were surveyed. The first was that of the Town 
 allotments, which took place in April, 1842. There 
 were five classes of allotments, which were all chosen 
 in the order of choice which had been determined for 
 them by the ballot in London ; and the map of the Town 
 of Nelson thus showed the lots chosen by private land- 
 owners, by a Government officer for the Native 
 Reserves, and by a Company's officer for the Com- 
 pany's own sections, for those reserved for sale in the 
 colony, and for those remaining unsold. 
 
 Subsequently to the first ballot, 64 allotments were 
 purchased in London, and 8 allotments in the colony.* 
 In these cases, another ballot was gone through, in 
 order to determine what allotment, with its orders of 
 choice, as fixed by the first ballot, and in virtue of 
 which selections had already in some cases been made, 
 should belong to the purchaser. 
 
 In the year 1845, however, the inhabitants of the 
 settlement applied to the Company to modify the 
 arrangements, so as to allow the landowners the option 
 
 * A few Town and Suburban sections have since been sold there, 
 or leased with purchasing-clause.
 
 REVISED PLAN. 253 
 
 of acquiring fresh land, and promoting concentration, 
 by means of re-selection under certain conditions. In 
 furtherance of this object, but not in the precise mode 
 suggested by them, the Company proposed a new set 
 of Regulations in October, 1845. These, however, 
 were received with great dissatisfaction, and con- 
 sequently withdrawn. The settlers continued to press 
 for a remodelling of the original scheme, and the 
 Directors therefore made another endeavour to carry 
 out such an alteration. 
 
 Negotiations ensued between a committee of the 
 resident land-purchasers on the one hand, and the Com- 
 pany's Agents on the other, who were apprised of the 
 almost unanimous consent of the land purchasers resi- 
 dent in this country to certain broad principles on 
 which the re-modelling of the arrangements should be 
 conducted. On the 30th of June, 1847, the Nelson 
 Committee came to the following Resolutions: 
 
 " 1. That it is indispensable that the Company should apply to 
 Parliament immediately for nn Act to enable them to make the 
 adjustment in the Scheme of the Nelson Settlement now proposed. 
 
 " 2. That such Act should contain a clause to empower any 
 Purchaser who should decline to avail himself of such adjustment, 
 or who, having availed himself of such adjustment, should still lit- 
 dissatisfied, to refer his claim in the first case to Arbitration, in 
 the Settlement or in England, at his option, without reference to 
 such adjustment ; and in the latter case, to have it determined by 
 Arbitration to what amount of additional compensation, if any, he 
 may be entitled. 
 
 " 3. That where such Arbitration shall take place in the Settle- 
 ment, the expense thereof would he properly chargeable on the 
 Establishment Fund. 
 
 " 4. That the propositions now submitted are founded on the 
 physical impossibility of carrying out the Original Scheme of the 
 Settlement, and the consequent necessity of some equitable com- 
 promise. 
 
 " T>. That a re-distribution of the Town and Suburban Sections 
 is just and necessary ; and that some land not hitherto included in 
 Suburban Choices should be made available for that purpose. 
 
 " 0. That upon consideration of the various modes proposed 
 for the re-distribution of the Town and Suburban Land, the plan 
 which most combines fairness, simplicity, nnd capability of imme-
 
 254 REVISED PLAN 
 
 diate application, and best meets the spirit of the conditions under 
 which the purchases were made, is a simple re-selection according 
 to the Original Order of Choice, with the exception of those Orders 
 representing the Unsold Sections. 
 
 " 7. That a Town should he laid out as a Shipping Port to the 
 Wairau District, the site to be determined hereafter, upon a careful 
 examination of the localities ; that the Town should consist, if 
 possible, of not less than 1000 Sections of quarter-acres ; and that 
 the selection thereof should be made in the Original Order of Choice 
 fixed by the ballot for the Nelson Town Sections, including the 
 Choices representing the Unsold Sections as well as the Sold. 
 
 " 8. That a limited quantity of land in contiguity to the new 
 Town, to be determined by the nature of the locality, should be laid 
 out and offered for distribution as Suburban Sections, in order to 
 make up for the ascertained deficiency of available Sections in the 
 Blind Bay district. 
 
 " 9. That it is desirable to compensate such Eesident Original 
 Purchasers, being Cultivators, or others who have been Residents 
 and Cultivators, who have debarred themselves of the advantages of 
 the proposed re-distribution by the outlay made on the Sections in 
 their occupation by enabling them to take their Rural Sections, or 
 portions of land equivalent thereto in amount to be determined by 
 Arbitration, in contiguity to their Suburban Sections ; and that the 
 re-distribution of Suburban Land be postponed until after such 
 cases shall be adjusted. 
 
 " 10. That the above Resolution, however, should not extend to 
 the holders of those Suburban Sections who have already effected 
 
 exchanges for ' Unsold' Sections subsequent to the day of 
 
 September, 1844. 
 
 " 11. That it is desirable to allow of two or more inferior Sub- 
 urban Sections, or portions thereof, according to degree of infe- 
 riority, to be decided by Arbitration, being united and made available- 
 together for choice as equivalent to a cultivable Fifty-Acre Section. 
 
 "12. That the Purchaser should have the option of taking Sub- 
 urban Sections rejected in the re-selection, for Rural Sections. 
 
 " 13. That the Company should be at liberty to accede to appli- 
 cations for increased quantities of inferior land in exchange for 
 Rural Laud-Orders. 
 
 " 14. That in the selection of the Rural Sections the Unsold 
 Orders of Choice should be suppressed, so that the actual Pur- 
 chasers may choose first; and that the distribution of the Rural 
 Sections should be postponed until the proposed arrangements 
 respecting the Suburban Sections shall have been carried out. 
 
 " 15. That the surplus Sections in the town of Nelson, including 
 portions of laud within the outside boundary lines not yet surveyed, 
 should be sold by Auction in quantities and at upset prices to be 
 fixed from time to time; that such lands should be let, if possible,
 
 OF JUNE, 1847. -255 
 
 in the meanwhile ; and that the Proceeds should be appropriated 
 according to th*> proportions of the Original Scheme. 
 
 ' 16. That the land taken for the Unsold Choices in the proposed 
 Town at Wairau should only be sold by Public Auction, the Pro 
 ceeds to be appropriated as above mentioned. 
 
 17. That supposing the estimates which hare been made of the 
 available land in the various Districts should be inaccurate, and any 
 quantity of the land should remain towards the completion of the 
 original number of 1000 Allotments, it will be desirable to dispose 
 thereof by Public Auction on the spot, the Proceeds to be appro 
 1 as mentioned in the two preceding Resolutions. 
 
 1-. That the Committee defer expressing any opinion on the 
 subject of the past administration of the Trust-Funds, until the 
 receipt of the promised information from the New Zealand Company, 
 but consider that the future management of them should be vested 
 in a Board of Trustees residing in die Settlement, to consist of 
 Seven Members, of whom two should be appointed by the Company, 
 two by the Private Absentee Proprietors, and three by the Resident 
 Proprieto/s. 
 
 " 19. That after agreeing upon the general principles on which 
 the Scheme of the Settlement would be fairly remodelled, and after 
 carefully considering the complicated question of compensation, the 
 Committee remain sensible that the details of the proposed Arrange- 
 ments will probably be insufficient to meet all the cases contem- 
 plated ; but, after the most anxious deliberation, they can perceive 
 no mode of meeting the merits of such cases, except the recourse to 
 Arbitration of special claims provided for by the second Resolution. 
 That the co-operation and assistance of the Non-Resident 
 Proprietors be most earnestly requested to promote and carry into 
 execution the foregoing Resolutions. 
 
 : i . That, taking into consideration the diminished amount of 
 the Trust-Funds, as compared with the sums originally contem- 
 plated, it is not desirable strictly to limit the powers of the proposed 
 Board of Trustees to the specific application of those Funds to the 
 exact purposes named in the Terms of Purchase, provided their 
 general application to analogous purposes be maintained." 
 
 On the 3rd March, 1848, the Company communi- 
 cated to the Committee their concurrence with the 
 above resolutions, subject to certain modifications, 
 explained in the following extracts from a letter of the 
 same date, from the Secretary of the Company to their 
 principal Agent in the Colony: 
 
 To the several proposals of re-distributing the Town and 
 Suburban Lands by means of re-selections according to the respec- 
 tive Original Orders of Choice, with the exception of the Order*
 
 256 REVISED PLAN 
 
 representing Unsold Sections of including as Suburban 
 Lands not hitherto laid out as such, of permitting, with the excep- 
 tion stated in the 10th Resolution, persons who have improved their 
 Suburban Sections to take in contiguity thereto their Kural Sections, 
 or such equivalent for the same as may be determined by Arbitra- 
 tion ; of allowing larger quantities of inferior Suburban aiid Rural 
 Lands to be taken under Arbitration as respectively equivalent to 
 smaller quantities of superior ; of suppressing or postponing the 
 Unsold Orders of Choice with regard to Rural Lands ; and of per- 
 mitting rejected Suburban Lands to be selected as Rural; the 
 Court gives its full assent, the mode of Arbitration being pointed 
 out below." 
 
 " To the proposals for laying out a Town as a Shipping-Port to 
 the Wairau District, in such locality as may upon examination be 
 deemed most eligible; of allowing Quarter-acre Sections to be 
 selected therein [without additional payment] in the original order 
 of Town choice, including tne Numbers both Sold and Unsold ; 
 and of permitting some Suburban Lands to be laid out, if practicable, 
 adjoining such Town; the Court consents also; and it has re- 
 quested of the Secretary of State that the Govenior may be in- 
 structed to take steps for acquiring possession of the Site of such 
 Town without delay. But it appears to the Court that, if the Site 
 eventually determined on permit, and if no material objection suggest 
 itself either to you or to the Settlers, it will be advisable, with the 
 view of eventually obtaining larger Funds for Public Purposes, to 
 lay out a Town of 2000 instead of 1000 Quarter-acre Sections only, 
 the Proceeds of the Sale being applied always to the purposes of 
 the several Special Funds in the established proportions." 
 
 With regard to the proposed Arbitration, the Secre- 
 tary refers to an arrangement with the Colonial Office, 
 by which Governor Grey has been empowered to dis- 
 pose as he may think fit of the whole landed estate of 
 the Company, so as to compensate any claimants who 
 may be discontented ; and it is only stipulated that 
 compensation must be made exclusively in land. 
 
 " In those Resolutions which relate to the future disposal of such 
 lands as shall remain available after the arrangement now contem- 
 plated shall have been carried out, it appears to the Directors that 
 the Landowners propose unnecessarily to tie up their own hands, 
 and so far to run a risk of defeating their own intentions, by 
 restricting all future sales to the one mode of Auction." 
 
 " They tberefore propose in the parliamentary enactment if such 
 enactment shall be found necessary to release the Company from 
 the obligation of adhering to the mode of sale by ballot, but to leave
 
 OF Ji'NE, 1847. 257 
 
 open the power of adopting any mode that oil mature consideration 
 
 shall from time to time appear to he best." 
 
 " To the appointment of a Board of Trustees, to be constituted 
 as proposed in the 18th Resolution, and empowered to appropriate 
 and expend the several special funds, (with the exception, of course, 
 of the fund for emigration, which evidently can only be administered 
 ..aid) and to the application of those funds to purposes 
 analogous to the purposes originally specified, bnt not exactly iden- 
 tical with them the Court will cheerfully consent, if it be found 
 that it either has, or can obtain, legal power to divest itself thence- 
 forward of the responsibilities which it has undertaken. To such 
 Board, also, the Court will be prepared to give the fullest information 
 on every point connected with the past administration of the funds, 
 and suggests that in the interim, the landowners shonld instruct 
 their Committee to draw up a statement of the points upon which such 
 information is specifically required. It mast be understood, however, 
 that the proposed Board is to execute in detail the several measures 
 upon which it may resolve, as the Court cannot consent to interfere, 
 or be in aiiy way concerned in the administration or expenditure of 
 auy fund which may be entrusted to such Board after its appoint- 
 ment."* 
 
 A sub-committee of the Nelson land-purchasers has 
 already proceeded to examine the sites eligible for a 
 town, according to the 7th Resolution, and has re- 
 portedjf as mentioned at page 227, in favour of Newton 
 Bay, or Waitohe, at the western extremity of Queen 
 Charlotte Sound. By the last accounts, this site had 
 not yet been purchased from the natives who claim it, 
 but there appeared every likelihood that this would 
 soon be effected. The Wairau Plain had been sur- 
 veyed, and the re-selection of suburban lands, and 
 selection of rural lands, had been advertised to take place 
 immediately. Many of the Colonists were preparing 
 to establish themselves in the Plain, with their flocks 
 and herds. 
 
 The price and rent of land, and the cost of clearing 
 
 * The whole correspondence on this, and other subjects connected 
 with the Adjustment of Land Questions in all the Company's settle- 
 ments, was printed in a pamphlet bearing that title, which was given 
 in J -4s, by the Company, to every purchaser of land in their settle- 
 ments. 
 
 f This report is published in the New Zealand Journal of July ] , 
 1848, vol. ix., No. 2->4, page 100. 
 
 z2
 
 258 PRICE AND RENT OF LAND. 
 
 and farming it, are about the same as in the Wellington 
 district. The chief part of the land, however, yet 
 cultivated near Nelson is flax or fern land. It is much 
 less expensive to clear than the heavily-timbered land 
 in the Hutt Valley, but it neither bears so heavy a crop 
 at first, nor will it last so long without manure. 
 
 Mr. John Ward, a Colonist of moderate means, who 
 had spent two or three years at Nelson, published, 
 during his stay in England in the year 1847, some 
 letters which he had written to friends who asked his ad- 
 vice as to whether they should emigrate. The follow- 
 ing extracts from those letters, which are dated in 
 April and May, 1847, will give some idea of the cost 
 of clearing, price, and rent of land about Nelson. 
 They refer rather to open land, covered with flax and 
 fern, than to wooded land, of which there is compara- 
 tively little in the Nelson districts which have been as 
 yet cultivated. Mr. Ward returned to Nelson, with 
 several members of his family, in July, 1848. 
 
 " I will now give you a short outline of the expenses that must 
 necessarily be incurred in order to commence with a farm of fifty 
 acres at Nelson ; it may vary a little in the other Settlements ; I only 
 mention Nelson, because I know nothing of the other Settlements 
 personally. The fifty acres of laud at Nelson would cost you, to 
 buy it if near town, or within five or six miles of it, and being 
 good flax land 150/. ; if inferior land, within that distance, 50Z. to 
 1001. ; if at a greater distance, less in proportion, especially bad 
 land, which at a distance from town is unsaleable; no person would 
 have it as a gift to cultivate it ; quality and situation are the two 
 main things to be attended to in selecting land in New Zealand; but 
 without buying the land it can be rented at a low rent, with a 
 purchasing clause inserted in the lease, so that the tenant can buy 
 it at any time within seven years at a given price, if he chooses. 
 This is very convenient, and many sections are let at Nelson in this 
 way. The rent of land varies according to quality and situation 
 some sections are let at 2s. 6d. per acre per annum, some nt ">.s., 
 and some at (is., for the first seven years ; but it is a general rule 
 for the tenant to have it rent-free for the first year, and sometimes 
 for two years ; this is regulated by the apparent difficulties and 
 expense that the land offers to get it in a state of cultivation. I 
 will inclose my estimate of the first year's expense, so that you may 
 form some idea what you can do in the Colony; you must recollect
 
 COST OF CULTIVATION. 
 
 259 
 
 the first year is tbc most difficult and expensive durUjjtabat, you 
 will have all to buy and nothing to sell ; but after the iSwf year the 
 
 scale will be turned you will have plenty to sell and little to buy." 
 ******* 
 
 " The best time to sow wheat is May or June, but it is sometimes 
 sown in July, August, and September. Barley can be sown at any 
 time from May to the 1st January ; potatoes, from 1st August to 1st 
 February ; cabbages, turnips, and those kind of things, all the year 
 round." 
 
 ******* 
 
 " Estimate of the necessary expenses to commence a farm at Nelson, 
 New Zealand fifty acres, at 5s. per acre per annum, for seven 
 years, first year's rent free : 
 "Wooden house, large enough for five or six people. . 15 
 
 (A good substantial brick house of this size, ?JO/.) 
 " Four working bullocks -40/., plough G/., harrows and 
 
 roller 5/., cart Hi/., gear and small tools 71 70 
 
 (Two horses will cost 50/., and the harness G/. more ; 
 bullocks are the best until the land is in a state 
 of cultivation.) 
 
 " Fencing a ten acre field 10 
 
 (It would be cheapest to fence the whole in at once, 
 
 25/.) 
 " Seed for three acres wheat, 2 bushels to the acre, at 
 
 5s. per bushel, say seven bushels 1 15 
 
 " Seed for two acres barley, three bushels to the acre, 
 
 at -is 1 4 
 
 " Seed for half acre potatoes 15 
 
 " Garden seeds and plants 5 
 
 " One cow, a good one 12/., a few pigs and fowls i)/.. . 15 
 " Housekeeping expenses for three of you for 
 
 twelve months 50 0^ 
 
 (After the first six months you could have 
 your own vegetables, eggs, and fowls, if 
 you go the right way to work.) 
 " Furnishing the house, and incidental ex- 
 penses 20 0' 
 
 183 \'., 
 
 " (Suppose it takes 200/., as 1 have allowed nothing 
 for accidents or breakages you may have a 
 bullock die, or break the plough or cart.) 
 
 " At the end of the year your account would staud 
 
 thus :
 
 260 CULTIVATION AND PRODUCE. 
 
 Value at the end 
 of first year. 
 
 " Crops, three acres wheat, thirty bushels per acre, 
 allowing the straw to pay expenses, at 5s. per 
 bushel 22 10 
 
 " Crops, two acres barley, forty bushels per acre, straw 
 
 will more than pay expenses, at is. per bushel. ... 16 
 
 " Crops, half acre potatoes, four tons, at 21. per ton . . 800 
 
 " Cow and calf 15/., pigs and poultry 101., sold butter 
 
 and milk QL, two pigs, I/., twenty fowls at 9rf. 15s. 32 15 
 
 "Bullocks, cart, plough, &c., allow 5 per cent, for 
 
 wear aud tear 66 10 
 
 " House and goods 30 
 
 " Improvements, ten acres land fenced 101., and six 
 
 acres got in a good state of cultivation 24Z 34 
 
 " Improvements on four acres land, cleared, ploughed, 
 
 once harrowed and rolled, at 21 8 
 
 " Improvements by putting up cow-shed, pig-sty, fowl- 
 house, aud tool-house, 6/. ; loss for materials 
 boards, 11. 12s., nails, C Ibs. at Id., 3s. 6d. 
 II. 15s. 6rf. 4 4 G 
 
 221 19 6 
 
 " I have supposed you to effect these improvements yourself. 
 Although this may not appear to be a very glowing account, yet in 
 reality it is a very favourable one, aud better than it will prove to 
 be, except you are industrious and everything is looked after well as 
 it should be, and the land must be good. I see there has been 
 96J. 5s. 6d. earned within the year viz., by produce and increase of 
 stock, 111. 15s.; nett produce of crops, 42/. 16s.; improvements, 
 40/. But you must bear in mind that you have much better 
 prospects for the second year ; you would be able to get twenty acres 
 under crop the second year ; the five and a half acres would take 
 but very little cultivating for the second crop; you would have four 
 times as much produce for sale ; and your expenses would not be 
 one-fourth as much as the first year. At the end of the second year 
 your accounts would stand thus : 
 
 Value. 
 " Proceeds of crops, sold and unsold, viz., ten acres 
 
 wheat, at 77. per acre ; eight acres of barley, at 81. 
 
 per acre; two acres of potatoes, at 121. per acre . . JE158 
 " Cows and pigs, increase since last year, 121. ; produce 
 
 sold 121. ; value last year, 251 49 
 
 " Bullocks, cart, &c., same as last year, having laid out 
 
 101. in repairs 66 10
 
 NELSON PRICES CURRENT. 261 
 
 " House and goods, 30/. ; improvements on the land, 
 
 40/. ; continued same as first year, 40/ 110 
 
 383 10 
 
 " Less for expenses, viz., materials and building a bam, 
 L r >/. ; housekeeping, '201. ; Rent, 12/. l()s. ; sun- 
 dries, 101. less expenses for the year f)7 10 
 
 " Total value at the end of second year 326 
 
 " I have estimated these expenses from actual experience at 
 Nelson, and I have only to say that the prices would be different in 
 a new Settlement the bullocks, cart, plough, and seed would be 
 dearer ; then, in return, your butter, eggs, and milk would sell for 
 double as much, and you would get a better price for your wheat 
 and potatoes. If you could buy two or three cows at the commence- 
 ment, it would increase your income considerably; the young cows 
 would soon make you increase the size of your dairy, and the young 
 steers would soon be fit to assist the old ones, or you could increase 
 the size of your farm when you had sufficient young stock to work 
 it ; this would cost you but very little, as you would have only to 
 buy another plough and two yokes and bows." 
 
 The following Lists of Prices Current are copied 
 from the Nelson Examiner of 22nd January, 1848. It 
 will be seen that many articles are cheaper than at 
 Wellington in March of the same year, as given at 
 page 179. 
 
 NELSON PRODUCE, FOB EXPORTATION. 
 
 Ale, ^ Lhd., 11. 10s.; $ doz. 7s.; Butter, $ tb, 10d.; Coal, ^ 
 ton, I/.; Flax, $ ton, 12/. 15s. to 15/.; Furniture Wood, 2/. to 
 '21. 10s.; Spare, $ run. ft. assorted, Is.; Staves, $ 1000, 111. to 
 151.; Planks, ty 100 ft., T)s. to Os. 6d.; Wool, clothing, sup., $ 
 lb, 8d. ; Do. average, 8d. 
 
 LATEST IMPORTED PRICES. 
 
 Coffee, $ lb, 8d. to Od.; Hams, New Zealand, $ lb, 5d. ; Leather, 
 Kip (Col.), $ lb, Is. 6d. ; Sole, lOd. ; Maize, $ bushel, 3s. ; Oats, 
 $> bushel, 3s. (id. ; Oil, black, ^ tun, 25/. ; Pigs, carcass, ^ tb, 
 2d. ; Hice, good, $ cwt. 18s. ; Sheep, each, 11. ; Sugar, Mauritius, 
 ^ ton, 28/. ; Refined loaf, 70/. ; Manilla, 32/. ; Tobacco, Negro- 
 head, $ fb, lOd. to Is. 
 
 WHOLESALE PRICES. 
 
 Ale, in bottle, %> doz., !)s. ; $ hhd. 11 10s. ; Barley, ty bushel, 
 4s. Od. to 5s. ; Bran, ^ bushel, 8d. ; Brandy, ^ gal., Os. Od. to 8s. ;
 
 262 PRICES. WAGES. STATISTICS. 
 
 Bricks, $ 1000, 11. 2s. to II. 5s. ; Candles, Mould, 8d. ; Dips, Cd. ; 
 Cheese, Colonial, lOd. ; Cigars, Havanna, $ ft, 8s.; Flour, first 
 quality, $ ton, 12/. to lol. ; Gin, sp> gal. 5s. ; Leather, Kip (Eng.) 
 ^ ft, 2s. 6d. ; Sole, ditto, Is. 2d. ; Oats, ^ bushel, 3s. Cd. ; Oil, 
 Linseed, ^ gal., 6s. Gd. to 7s. ; Paint, black, ^ cwt., 11. 5s. to 
 11. 10s. ; Pickles, ^ doz. pint bottles, 14s. ; Pitcb, ^barrel, 21. 10s. ; 
 Plank, Nelson, ^ 100 ft. 5s. ; Pork, New Zealand, ^ barrel, 21. 10s. ; 
 Porter, bottled, sp'doz., 9s.; ^ hhd., 5/. ; Potatoes, ty ton, 31. ; Rum, 
 ty gal., 4s. 6d. to 7s. ; Salt, ^ ton, 4/. ; Scantling, <p- 100 ft., 4s. Cd. ; 
 Shingles, New Zealand, 7s. 6d. ; Soap, Liverpool, ^ ton, 30/. ; Lon- 
 don, 40/. ; Sydney, 35/. ; Starch, y ft, 7d. ; Tar, Stockholm, It. 10s. ; 
 Coal, 11. ; Tea, per chest, 5. 10s. to 101. ; Turpentine, ^ gal., 8s. ; 
 Whiskey, ^ gal., 8s. to 10s. ; Wine, Sherry, ^ gal., 6s. to 10s. ; 
 Ditto in bottles, ^ doz., 11. to 11. 10s. ; Port, ^ gal., 6s. to 10s. ; 
 Ditto in bottles, ^ doz., U. 7s. to 11. 10s. ; Wheat, ^ bushel, 3s. Cd. 
 to 5s. 
 
 RETAIL PRICES. 
 
 Beef, fresh, ^ ft, Cd. to 8d. ; Bread, y 4ft. loaf, 8d. ; Butter, 
 fresh, lOd. to Is.; Cheese, Nelson, lOd. ; Eggs, ty doz. 8d. ; 
 Fire Wood, ty cord, 12s.; Iron, ^ tb, 2^d. ; Lime, sp- ton, 
 delivered, 21. ; Milk, sp pint, Id. to 2d. ; Mutton, ^ ft, Cd. to 7d. : 
 Oysters, ^ hundred, 9d. ; Pork, fresh, ^ ft, 5d. ; Poultry, fowls, ^ 
 pair, 2s. Cd. ; Ducks, do., 3s. ; Geese, do , 10s. ; Turkeys, do., 10s.; 
 Pigeons, wild, do., Is. ; Ducks, do., do., 2s. 
 
 Cows, milch, each, 101. to 15J. ; Mares, each, 20/. to 30/. ; Sheep, 
 wethers, each, 17s. to 11. 4s. Od. ; Working Bullocks, ^ pair, 20J. to 
 30/. 
 
 Wages, mechanics, ^ day, 3s. Cd. to 4s. Cd. ; Labourers, 2s. to 
 2s. 6d. 
 
 The following Statistical details were collected by 
 order of Government: 
 
 WHITE POPULATION. 1847. 
 
 Males. Females. Total. 
 Town of Nelson : 
 
 Adults 257 273 530 
 
 Children 274 289 563 
 
 Total in Town .. 531 562 1,093 
 
 Rural Districts : 
 
 Adults 496 359 855 
 
 Children 477 442 919 
 
 Total in Country 973 801 1,774 
 Total White Population 2,867
 
 NELSON POPULATION. Q63 
 
 This is an increase of 14 over 1846 ; bat in addition to this, there 
 is a coast population to the number of perhaps 80; so that the 
 whole number of Europeans in the district may be estimated at 
 
 BIRTHS, MABBIAGES, and DEATHS. 1845. 
 
 Males. Fern. Total. Marriages. Deaths. 
 Birtl:- 
 
 In the Town 40 40 86 14 6 
 
 Country 41 39 80 88 
 
 Totals.. 87 70 166 H 14 
 
 1846. 
 
 Males. Females. Total. 
 Births : 
 
 Town of Nelson 21 23 44 
 
 Rural Districts 80 35 6ft 
 
 Total Births 51 58 100 
 
 Marriages 16 
 
 Deaths. 23 
 
 ' Of the deaths fire were accidental. 
 
 1847. 
 
 Males. Females. Total. 
 Births: 
 
 Town of Nelson 18 40 
 
 Rural Districts 35 46 81 
 
 Total Births 53 08 121 
 
 Marriages 16 
 
 Deaths !> 
 
 Of the deaths six were accidental. 
 
 NATIVE POPULATION OF BLIXD BAT. 
 
 Males. Females. Total. 
 
 l-r> :U4 609 
 
 1846 258 587 
 
 J--17 335 280 615 
 
 This does not include the natives residing on the eastern side 
 of the bay above Wakapnaka. 
 
 EnrcATiox. 
 
 Boys. Girls. Total. 
 
 Nine Day Schools 156 l-,'4 280 
 
 Seven Sunday Schools 178 160 338 
 
 TotalSixteen . . 334 284 618
 
 264 NELSON STATISTICS. 
 
 PLACES OF WORSHIP, 1847. Churches, 4 ; Methodist chapels, 2 ; 
 Roman-catholic chape), 1; German Lutheran, 1: total 8. Divine 
 service is also performed in several school-rooms by lay preachers. 
 
 JUDICIAL. Supreme Court, criminal cases, 6 ; Court of Requests, 
 cases decided, 20 ; Magistrate's Court, summary convictions, 30. 
 
 LIVE STOCK. Horned cattle, 2,104 ; sheep, 20,400; horses, 132 ; 
 mules, 11; goats, 2,180; pigs, 3,230; head of poultry, 0,350. This 
 does not include 11 horses the property of natives, the stock owned 
 by persons residing on the coast, nor the herd of wild cattle in the 
 neighbourhood of the Pelorus. It includes, however, 4,000 sheep 
 running near the Wairau, the property of Mr. Clifford.* The in- 
 crease since 1840 has been considerable. The numbers then re- 
 turned were Cattle, 1,591 ; sheep, 10,022 ; horses, 107 ; goats, 
 1,029; pigs, 2,806; poultry, 5,934. The importation during the 
 year has been, cattle, 99 ; sheep, 1,473 ; and horses, 28. 
 
 NUMBER OF BUILDINGS, 1847. 
 
 Brick. Wood. Mud. 
 
 Town of Nelson 37 146 50 
 
 Rural Districts 17 165 140 
 
 Total 54 311 190 
 
 Gross total number of buildings 541 
 
 AGRICULTURE, 1847. Land fenced, 4,043 acres. Land culti- 
 vated, 3,508. Land cropped: wheat, 1,551; barley, 1088f ; oats, 
 156J; potatoes, 230} ; turnips, 02; grasses, 100; tares, 21; other 
 crops, 141. Total under crop, 3,4504 acres. In addition to the above, 
 the natives residing in the bay have 340 acres of wheat, 300 acres of 
 potatoes, 80 of maize, and 50 of other crops. 
 
 The average yield of the general crop has been estimated, for 
 wheat, 31 bushels to the acre ; oats, 30 bushels ; barley, 28 bushels ; 
 potatoes, 8 tons. 
 
 OCCUPATION OF LAND, 1 840. 
 
 Owners. Tenants. 
 
 Town of Nelson 20 90 
 
 Rural Districts 40 212 
 
 Total 66 302 
 
 The particular amount of cultivation in each district is not given ; 
 but by far the greater part is in the Waimea plain, where most of 
 what can be called farms are. There are two or three at Motueka, 
 and as many at Wakapuaka. The cottier-farmers are principally 
 
 * Already enumerated as belonging to a Wellington Colonist, 
 page 191.
 
 CULTIVATION. MANUFACTURES, ETC. 265 
 
 located in the Poor Man's Valley and the German Settlement of 
 Ranzuu, in Wuimea East; Gleniti, or the Wai-iti Valley, Wai me a 
 South ; and the beautiful Rewaka Valley, north of Motueka. 
 
 MANUFACTORIES, MINES, ETC. 
 
 Malthonse and brewery, the property of Messrs. Hooper and Co., at 
 which 7- r iO hogsheads of ale were brewed during the year. 
 
 Ditto, the property of Mr. Smith. 200 hogsheads of ale brewed. 
 
 Ditto, at Waimea West, the property of Mr. Redwood. 100 hogs- 
 heads of ale brewed. 
 
 Two briek kilns in the town of Nelson, at which 340,000 bricks 
 have been made during the year. In the rural districts, bricks 
 have been made on the spots where required. 
 
 Shipwrights' yard, the property of Mr. Strong. Two small vessels 
 and four boats launched during the year. 
 
 Ditto, the property of Mr. Freeman. Three small vessels and several 
 boats launched. 
 
 Saw-mill qt Motueka, the property of the executors of the late Cap- 
 tain Thorns, at present not worked. 
 
 Ditto at Gleniti, the property of Mr. Boigent. One circular and six 
 vertical saws. 
 
 Ditto in Waimea West, the property of Mr. H. Martin. 
 
 Flour-mill in Nelson, two pair of stones, water power, ground 4!)00 
 bushels of wheat. Messrs. Campbell and Jenkins. 
 
 Ditto in Waimea South, one pair of stones, water power. Mr. W. 
 Herrick. 
 
 Ditto at Gleniti, water power, the property of Mr. Baigent. 
 
 Flax-mill and rope-walk in Suburban North, property of Mr. 
 M'Glashen. 
 
 Rope- walk in Waimea Road, belonging to Mr. Gardiner. Four tons 
 of flax worked up during the year. 
 
 Tanyard and curriery, the property of Mr. G. Lightband ; 830 skins 
 prepared in the year. The barks used for tanning are those of 
 the hinau and black birch. + The latter is perhaps the best bark for the 
 purpose, the tannin being so strong in the former as to render the 
 leather too hard. Black birch can be procured in plenty from some 
 parts of the settlement. The hides here have an advantage in 
 being uninjured by the disease called irurblfs, a name applied to 
 lumps raised on cattle by a fly which perforates the hide. 
 
 Iliind-loom for woollen cloths, the property of Mr. Blick ; 2.'>0 yards 
 of cloth produced. Sells at -is. 6d. per yard. 
 
 Hand loom for stockings, the property of Mr. Gibson. 
 
 * This mill is capable of cutting 20,000 feet of timber per week, 
 t See page 142, Nos. 9 and 11. 
 A A
 
 266 
 
 COMMERCIAL STATISTICS. 
 
 Hand-loom for sacking, from flax, the property of Mr. Devaney; 
 
 2080 yards made in the year. 
 Coal mine at Massacre Bay. A large quantity has been worked 
 
 during the year, and shipped for Wellington and Nelson. 
 Lime-kiln in the Haven Eoad, the property of Mr. Strong. The 
 
 stone burnt is magnesian limestone, brought from Massacre Bay. 
 Lime-kiln in Suburban South. 
 
 Excellent huts and bonnets are made of plaited straw. 
 
 Salt has been made by evaporation, in pits. 
 
 From the Haven Road three jetties have been thrown out ; one of 
 them, running from a projecting piled embankment, if carried out a 
 few feet farther, would admit of vessels 300 tons lying alongside it. 
 Another, on open piles, is about 200 feet in length. There are two 
 bridges for carts in the town. 
 
 VESSELS BUILT AND REGISTEBED. 
 
 Years. 
 
 Vessels. 
 
 Tons. 
 
 1842 
 
 2 
 
 21 
 
 1843 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1844 
 
 3 
 
 32 
 
 1845 
 
 3 
 
 40 
 
 1846 
 
 4 
 
 91 
 
 1847 
 
 6 
 
 90 
 
 Six years. 
 
 19 
 
 286 
 
 IMPORTS AKD EXPORTS. 
 
 Years. 
 
 Imports. 
 
 Exports. 
 
 1842 
 
 s. d. 
 18,378 
 
 s. d. 
 
 1843 
 
 28,867 17 11 
 
 029 11 8 
 
 1844 
 
 20,228 9 2 
 
 1,510 17 
 
 1845 
 
 6,297 
 
 1,891 
 
 1846 
 
 9,819 4 
 
 3,082 
 
 1847 
 
 10,566 15 
 
 3,576 4
 
 IMPORTS AND EXPORTS. 267 
 
 But this does not include the exports coastwise, 
 of which the value is not declared at the Custom-House. 
 The following is a detailed account for 1847, of the 
 
 Exports to Great Britain and the Colonies: 
 
 Bacon, 45 packages 26 
 
 Butter, 34 kegs 80 
 
 Curiosities, L case 500 
 
 Flax, If ton 24 
 
 Oil black, 2 casks 14 
 
 Oil of Anise, 1 case 20 
 
 Rope, 87 coils 123 
 
 Skins sheep, 200 20 
 
 seal, 40 40 
 
 Spars, 119 37 10 
 
 Timber sawn, 332,850 feet .... 970 
 
 logs, 12 12 
 
 Wool, 190 bales 1,878 
 
 Value of Nelson produce . . 3,255 10 
 Ditto of other goods . . . . 32014 
 
 Total Value of Exports . . . 3,576 4 
 
 Nelson produce, sent coastwise : Bacon, 10 cwt., 1 package ; 
 barley, 301 bushels, 2 barrels ; beer, 07 hogsheads, 122 barrels, 
 4 kegs; ditto bottled, 19 cases; bread, 10 cwt., 27 bags, 3 casks; 
 bricks, 8 tons ; butter, 01 kegs, 1 case, 3 cwt. ; cheese, 5 casks ; 
 coals, 82 tons ; curiosities, 1 bundle ; eggs, 7 boxes, 400 dozen ; 
 flour, 43 tons ; liides, 3 packages ; sheep, 100 ; maize, 40 bushels ; 
 oats, 00 bnshels ; oil (sperm), 2 casks ; peas, 1 bag ; pork, 2 barrels ; 
 potatoes, 19 tons ; timber, 82,000 feet sawn, 043 logs ; vinegar, 
 3 hogsheads, 1 keg.
 
 268 
 
 NELSON SHIPPING. 
 
 The following Table of Nelson Shipping is given by Mr. Grim- 
 stone, in his " Statistics of the Southern Settlements," already 
 alluded to : 
 
 
 BEYOND SEAS. 
 
 COASTWISE. 
 
 
 Inwards. 
 
 Outwards. 
 
 In- 
 wards. 
 
 Out- 
 wards. 
 
 Year. 
 
 Ships. 
 
 Tons. 
 
 Ships. 
 
 Tons. 
 
 Tons. 
 
 Tons. 
 
 1842 
 
 34 
 
 10,132 
 
 15 
 
 4323 
 
 
 
 
 
 1843 
 
 27 
 
 6316 
 
 19 
 
 3824 
 
 
 
 
 
 1H44 
 
 31 
 
 5386 
 
 29 
 
 5338 
 
 
 
 
 
 1845 
 
 9 
 
 1001 
 
 13 
 
 1147 
 
 2771 
 
 2068 
 
 184C 
 
 16 
 
 2209 
 
 12 
 
 1201 
 
 1548 
 
 2396 
 
 But he appears to have made some mistake in the latter years, as 
 the Tables made by order of Government, and published in the 
 Nelson Examiner, give the following total tonnage of 
 
 VESSELS ENTEBED INWABDS. 
 Year. Vessels. Tons. 
 
 1845 
 1846 
 
 85 
 71 
 
 6175 
 7014 
 
 GOVERNMENT REVENUE AND EXPENDITURE. 
 
 REVENUE, 1846. 
 
 s. d. 
 Ordinary Revenue (from Customs, Fees, Licences, 
 
 <tc.) 1304 6 1 
 
 Incidental Revenue (Surcluiryes recovered) ... 13 13 9 
 Receipts in aid of Revenue (from Colonial 
 
 Treasurer) 1026 16 6 
 
 Total . . 2344 16 4 
 
 EXPENDITURE, 1846. 
 
 Civil Expenditure (Salaries of Officers, <tc.) 
 Judicial (Law Courts, Police, <r.) 
 
 Public Works and Buildings 
 
 Militia 
 
 Miscellaneous 
 
 774 14 
 1231 3 
 
 Or. 10 
 43 10 
 64 9 
 
 Total 2179 7 10
 
 GOVERNMENT FINANCE. 269 
 
 The following is the Official abstract of the revenue and expen- 
 diture of the district of Nelson, for the year ended the 31st day of 
 December, 1847 : 
 
 REVENUE. 
 
 Ordinary. s d 
 
 Customs 1381 7 1 
 
 Post Office 78 5 10 
 
 Fines and Fees Police 29 19 8 
 
 Court of Requests .... 766 
 
 Licences Publicans' 206 
 
 .. Auctioneers' 40 
 
 Rent Powder Magazine 1 8 
 
 Total Ordinary 1743 19 9 
 
 Incidental. 
 Surcharges recovered 044 
 
 Receipts in Aid. 
 
 Remittances from Colonial Treasurer, or 
 
 Treasurer of the Southern Division - 406 15 7 
 
 EXPENDITURE. 
 
 Civil Establishment. f , ~ , 
 s. d. Ji, s. a. 
 
 Sub-Treasurer 5 10 3 
 
 Customs 276 15 8 
 
 Post Office 94 4 
 
 Harbour Master 236 17 3 
 
 Governnment Brig Victoria 8 7 
 
 Total Civil 621 4 1 
 
 Judicial. 
 
 County Court 1 7 2 
 
 Supreme Court 29 5 4 
 
 Sheriff and Gaols 181 010 
 
 Registrar of Deeds 83 6 8 
 
 Coroner 10 7 6 
 
 Police 795 l.'f 4 
 
 Crown Prosecutions and Witnesses .... 850 
 
 Total Judicial 1109 5 10 
 
 Public Works and Buildings. 
 
 Roads and Bridges ... 34 10 
 
 AA2
 
 270 TOWN OF NELSON. 
 
 Militia. s. d. 
 
 Nelson battalion of militia (Hi 7 
 
 Aborigines. 
 
 Presents to Natives 33 18 
 
 Rations to ditto 1 12 8 
 
 Native hospitals 25 9 2 
 
 Medical attendance 14 2 
 
 Rations to sick and destitute. 10 3 
 
 Total Aborigines 85 6 3 
 
 Miscellaneous. 
 
 Interest on debentures 20 1 8 
 
 Allowance to widows of constables killed 
 
 at Wairau 10 14 
 
 Ditto to persons wounded at ditto .... 20 18 
 
 Rations for the relief of the destitute . . 44 2 
 
 H. M. S. Inflexible 28 5 3 
 
 Loan to New Plymouth for the purchase 
 
 of bricks and lime CO 8 3 
 
 Total Miscellaneous 190 9 8 
 
 RECAPITULATION. 
 Revenue. Expenditure. 
 
 Ordinary 1743 19 9 
 
 Incidental 4 4 
 
 Receipts in aid . . 400 15 7 
 Balance from last 
 
 year 83 1 4 
 
 Total .... 2234 1 
 
 Civil Establishment (521 4 1 
 
 Judicial 1109 5 10 
 
 Public Works and 
 
 Buildings 34 10 
 
 Militia 00 7 
 
 Aborigines 85 3 
 
 Miscellaneous 190 9 8 
 
 Balance to next 
 
 year 120 18 2 
 
 Total 2234 1 
 
 Sub-Treasury, Nelson, STEPHEN CARKEEK, 
 
 this 27th day of January, 1848. Sub-Treasurer. 
 
 In the town, exclusive of shops, stores, and taverns, 
 are to be noticed, the wooden building in which the 
 business of Supreme, Requests, and Police Courts is 
 carried on, a tiny Jail, and the Fort,* on a low hill in 
 
 * A ball-proof stockade, rampart, and ditch, covering an acre.
 
 NEWSPAPER. BANK. '271 
 
 the centre of the Town; and the Company's Immigra- 
 tion Barracks, excellently adapted for soldiers, built 
 round three sides of a square, with offices detached, at 
 an expense of 800/. There is also a Powder Magazine 
 on the Boulder Bank. There is a very good Hotel, 
 the JVakaiii ; and there are four other taverns and a 
 boarding-house, shops, and stores of various kinds. 
 
 There is a Literary Institution, with a library of 
 600 volumes, chiefly on history and useful knowledge. 
 It is supported by fifty subscribers at a guinea a year, 
 and by voluntary contributions. There is also a 
 Mechanics' Institute at the village of Richmond, near 
 Nelson. At both these places lectures are sometimes 
 given by one or two of the leading Colonists. Astro- 
 nomy and Education are among the subjects which 
 have been treated upon. 
 
 There is a printing-press, and a weekly Newspaper, 
 the "Nelson Examiner" which has been published weekly 
 since the foundation of the settlement in the end of 1841. 
 
 The Union Bank of Australia has a branch establish- 
 ment here. The notes in circulation amount to 7000/. 
 
 There is a very good Cricket Club at Nelson. 
 
 A Race Meeting is held about March in every year. 
 The fifth meeting took place on the Waimea Course, 
 about five miles from the town, on the loth of March, 
 1847. The Tradesman's Plate, Scurry Stakes, Tally- 
 ho Hurdle Stakes, and Hack Stakes, were run for in 
 heats. There was also the Ladies' Purse for beaten 
 horses, and a Play-or-Pay Plate for mules. But the 
 most novel race was that the account of which is thus 
 given in the local newspaper: 
 
 " MOTUEKA PLATE of Two Sovereigns, for all horses the property 
 of and ridden by Maories. Catch weights. Heats. Once round. 
 
 Tc Tana's b. h. Priam, 5 yrs. . . . (Hcrewini te Taka) 2 1 1 
 
 Ngapiko's ch. c. Red Eye (Wiremu Kawi) 1 3 2 
 
 Ngapiko's ch. c. Kaiwakawa .... (Tc Ngorengore) 323 
 
 ' The interest displayed by the Maories during this race was 
 intense, and the jockeyship of the riders most amusing, whilst the 
 perfect good humour and fairness with which they submitted to the
 
 272 RACES. DIRECTORY. 
 
 decisions oil this occasion, as also last week at the Horticultural 
 Show, although against them, was most praiseworthy. We shall be 
 able to make good sportsmen of the natives in time, and thus give 
 them a more harmless subject of excitement than many of them 
 have hitherto been accustomed to ; the aptitude displayed by the 
 aboriginal inhabitants of the Motueka district to acquire our arts, 
 our mode of living, our methods of cultivation, &c., is most cheering, 
 and gives evident proof that they may easily be made to become 
 most useful members of the community with which they are so 
 rapidly becoming identified." 
 
 The following is a Directory for Nelson, compiled 
 from the Cook's Strait Almanac and the Government 
 Gazettes for 1848: 
 
 Superintendent and Resident Magistrate Matthew Richmoud, Es^. 
 
 Sheriff (temporarily} '' John Tiuline, Esq. 
 
 Justices of the Peace M. Richmond, D. Sinclair, 
 
 Esqrs. ; Dr. J. D. Greenwood; F. Otterson, D. Sclanders, H. 
 
 Martin, J. Mackay, A. McShane, G. Duppa, G. White, Esqrs. ; 
 
 Dr. D. Monro; E. W. Stafford, W. O. Cautley, F. Jollie, C. B. 
 
 Wither, C. Thorp, J. Nixon, and F. D. Bell, Esqrs. 
 Deputy Registrar of Births, Deaths, > j po 
 
 and Marriages (provisionally)... $ 
 
 Sub-Collector of Customs S. Carkeek, Esq. 
 
 Coroner and Medical Officer J. F. Wilson, Esq. 
 
 Postmaster Mr. W Howard. 
 
 Resident Agent of tlie New Zealand ? -p p. u 11 IT 
 
 Company J * 
 
 There is one Clergyman of the Church of England, the Rev. 
 Henry F. Butt ; and one Wesleyan Minister, the Rev. J. Aldred. 
 
 There are three Legal Practitioners ; and five Medical Practi- 
 tioners, two of whom have the degree of M.D. 
 
 There are five Mercantile firms, one of which carries on Auc- 
 tioneer's business. 
 
 There are no troops stationed in the Nelson district.
 
 NEW PLYMOUTH DISTRICT. 273 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 J'ixlrir/ of Taranakl, or New Plymouth. Afotiut Eamoiit. Gcu- 
 /iii/ii-ii/ I-'tiri>tfitiini. Face of Country. Streams. Toirn of 
 \,'ir I'/ i/mouth . Devon Rnad. Roadstead. Siujar-loaf Point 
 and Islands. In/'ind Bridle path. Country to 8.E. of Dis- 
 Irii-l. ll'ni/i-ra lliver. Country Northwards. Molmu lliver. 
 Climate, and t>il. Natural Productions. Minerals. Dis- 
 trilnitian of Laud. Cunt of Cultivation and Average Produce. 
 J'rices. Statistics. Directory. 
 
 THE Taranaki country, so called from the native 
 name of Mount Egmont around which it lies, is com- 
 monly described by all who have seen it as " the 
 garden of New Zealand." Mount Egmont itself, an 
 extinct volcano, rises from a generally level country to 
 the height of 8840 feet, by a gradual ascent from a 
 circle about thirty miles in diameter, which forms the 
 outer circumference of its base. About half this cir- 
 cumference, from Sugar-loaf Point to the mouth of the 
 Waimate river, is formed by the sea-coast; and Cape 
 Egmont forms at once the westernmost point of this 
 circle and the northern headland of the western 
 entrance to Cook's Strait. 
 
 Perhaps half the area of the circle described is 
 sufficiently level for cultivation. 
 
 South-east of this circle, a broad tract of fertile 
 undulating country extends as far as the Wanganui 
 district already described in Chapter VI.; and in 
 a northerly direction a similar tract of country extends 
 along the western coast of the North Island beyond the 
 mouth of the river Mokau; being separated, by a low 
 range of wooded mountains, from the country watered 
 by the western tributaries of the Wanganui river. 
 
 Another low range of hills diverges from Mount 
 Egmont to the north-east, in the direction of Tonga 
 Riro; and a third low range extends westward, from 
 the mountain nearly to Cape Egmont.
 
 274 GEOLOGICAL FORMATION. 
 
 The country lying in the immediate neighbourhood 
 of Sugar-loaf Point, and to the northward, was selected 
 by Mr. F. A. Carrington as the site of a Settlement, 
 founded by Colonists chiefly from the West of England. 
 The first of them started from this country in Novem- 
 ber, 1840, under the auspices of an association called 
 the Plymouth Company of New Zealand, which after- 
 wards merged in the New Zealand Company. 
 
 This extensive tract of country is almost level, 
 excepting the broken ground in the courses of the 
 numerous streams which water it, and that near the 
 foot of the dividing range of hills. It consists in 
 general of aqueous formations, interrupted in places, 
 but more especially at Sugar-loaf Point and Islands, by 
 branches of the volcanic formation which contains 
 Mount Egmont and the small ranges diverging from it. 
 The sub- stratum is therefore generally a yellowish 
 sandy loam, or sandstone. Interspersed among these 
 sub-strata are found formations of lignite. The surface 
 is a rich volcanic mould, of the most fertile character. 
 Near the sea-shore, this soil is light, being intermixed 
 with sand: but it increases in depth and improves in 
 quality towards the mountains. 
 
 The land for three or four miles from the coast is 
 mostly open, and covered with a uniform vegetation of 
 flax and fern: but in the little gullies of the streams, 
 and also in scattered clumps, so as to give the country 
 a park-like appearance, there are groves of trees. 
 Towards the foot of the hills, and on the hills them- 
 selves, the country becomes generally wooded. 
 
 Many streams, large and small, take their rise in the 
 sides of Mount Egmont, and fall into the sea at various 
 points along miles of the coast. The most southerly of 
 these is the Patea, a considerable river, which springs 
 from the north-eastern side of Mount Egmont, and 
 flows by a very tortuous course into Cook's Strait, 
 about forty miles north-west of the Wanganui's mouth. 
 It is unnecessary to record the names of all those which
 
 TOTTN OF NEW PLYMOUTH. 275 
 
 water the country between Patea and Sugar-loaf Point. 
 North of this spot there are the Huatoki, the Henui, 
 and the "Waiwakaio, comparatively small streams; the 
 last of which springs from the northern side of Mount 
 Egmont. 
 
 The mouth of the Huatoki is about two miles north 
 of Sugar-loaf Point: that of the Henui about three 
 miles beyond; and that of the Waiwakaio one mile 
 further north. 
 
 A block of about 700 acres, situate on the banks of 
 the Huatoki and Henui, and including all the land 
 between those two streams for nearly half a mile back 
 from the sea-beach, has been fixed upon as the site of 
 the Town of New Plymouth. Its nucleus has been 
 formed at ihe mouth of the Huatoki, on either bank of 
 which are situate the Residence and Office of the Com- 
 pany's Agent; two or three taverns; the Jail; the 
 Court-house; and a few private stores and residences. 
 There are also a Church, a Wesleyan Chapel, and a 
 Primitive Methodists' Chapel. Several small farms, 
 and knots of labourers' cottages are scattered about at 
 various distances from this centre; and north of the 
 Henui there is another Church and another Primitive 
 Methodists' Chapel. About half a dozen of these 
 buildings, including the Jail, the first-mentioned 
 Church,* and the "Wesleyan Chapel, are built of either 
 granite or sandstone, which are both found in the 
 neighbourhood. The rest are built of wood. 
 
 The country is so level that little labour is required 
 to make such roads as are necessary for the traffic of 
 the Settlement. The soil is of so dry a nature that, in 
 many places, after merely cutting down the high fern, 
 drays can pass in all weathers; and it has only been 
 necessary to make bridges over the streams, and ap- 
 proaches to them down the sides of the gullies. This 
 has been done, over the three streams mentioned, by the 
 Company; and, as there is a good ford over the river 
 
 Built at a cost of 855/.
 
 276 ROADSTEAD. 
 
 Waiongona, whose mouth is about 9 miles N. of 
 Sugarloaf Point, there is altogether a very passable 
 road from the town to the S. bank of the Waitera 
 river, 12 miles N. of the same point. This line 
 of communication is called the Devon Road. Several 
 branch roads have been marked out, and brought into 
 use, leading from the occupied spots a little way inland 
 into the main road. 
 
 The roadstead, or anchorage, of New Plymouth is 
 immediately opposite the Town. It is exposed to the 
 W. and N.W. winds, which frequently blow with 
 such violence as to render the anchorage precarious, 
 and cause a violent surf on the beach; but from all 
 other quarters it is sheltered by the mainland and by 
 the Sugarloaf Islands. The Company, at first, laid 
 down moorings fit for vessels of 600 tons; but the 
 buoys have since been carried away, and, by the last 
 accounts, the chains had not yet been picked up again. 
 They have also provided surf-boats, now manned by 
 experienced boatmen in the employ of Government, 
 and for the use of which a regular charge is made. 
 The appearance of the weather invariably gives a 
 warning of sufficient length, when it is time to get 
 under weigh and make an oifing. With W. or N.W. 
 winds, large vessels can easily run across Cook's 
 Strait into Port Hardy for shelter. The following 
 are the bearings taken from the safest anchorage, as 
 extracted from the Cook's Strait Almanac for 1846: 
 
 " NEW PLYMOUTH, TAKANAKI (Sugarloaf Island, foot of hill); 
 
 S. lat. 39 4' 30"; E. long. 174 40'. 
 
 " The anchorage is about half way between Barrett's whaling 
 station and the Huatoki river, rather more than 2 miles off shore ; 
 here the moorings were formerly laid down. Bearings Moorings 
 at Taranaki; outer part of Saddle-Back Sugar Loaf, S.W. by'W. 
 W.; Flagstaff on Mount Eliot, S. 53 E.; Mount Egmont top, 
 S. 16 E.; White Cliff, N. 49 E." 
 
 The whaling station mentioned is situate on the 
 beach, immediately to the north of Sugarloaf Point. 
 It was first established by Mr. Richard Barrett, by
 
 SUGARLOAF POINT AND ISLANDS. 277 
 
 means of whose influence with the natives, the district 
 was purchased for the New Zealand Company, in 1839. 
 An inconsiderable rivulet, supplied by two small 
 lagoons, here filters on to the beach. A second whaling 
 .station has been established of late years.* 
 
 Sugarloaf Point is a dome-like cone of trachitic 
 porphyry, which rises to the height of 500 feet, and 
 stands in an isolated position, with one side of its base 
 washed by the sea. In its neighbourhood, large boul- 
 ders, consisting of volcanic rocks of apparently an old 
 date, as basalts, greenstones, trachyte, augitic rock, 
 &c., are cemented together into a solid conglomerate, 
 which seems to extend, like a stream of lava, from 
 Mount Egmont into the sea, but cannot be traced far 
 inland. Where the sea washes these rocks the con- 
 glomerate is peculiarly hard, the salt water appearing 
 to have a chemical action either on the particles of the 
 iron pyrites, with which several of the rocks abound, 
 and which often cover the pebbles with a metallic crust, 
 or else on the black titanic iron-sand which is found 
 on the beach. 
 
 A strong smell of sulphuretted hydrogen gas, and a 
 constant succession of bubbles of some bituminous sub- 
 stance rising to the surface of the sea, may be observed 
 about half a mile from high-water mark, between the 
 mainland and Moturoa, the highest of the Sugarloaf 
 islands. 
 
 These islands are five in number. Three of them 
 are very near the shore: indeed, Mikotai, the northern- 
 most of these three, is joined to the main by an isthmus, 
 which is dry at low water of spring tides. Moturoa 
 lies about a mile off this, with a deep water passage 
 between them. And Motuomahanga, the outermost, 
 about a mile and a half still further to the west, also 
 separated from Moturoa by a deep and safe channel. 
 
 Dr. Dieffenbach describes one of the Sugar-loaf 
 Inlands as consisting of the soft, yellow sand-stone 
 * See page 193. 
 B B
 
 278 COUNTRY TO THE S.E. 
 
 above-mentioned; but all the others, he says, are steep 
 and conical masses of greyish trachyte, containing much 
 feldspar. He also gives a more particular description 
 of Moturoa, which is as follows: 
 
 " This island is a conical rock, extremely steep, about one mile 
 in circumference and 300 feet high : the formation is trachyte ; 
 the rock contains much augite and feldspar, an I includes here and 
 there fragments of a different formation. The augite appears often 
 in nests ; and micaceous iron-ore occurs in thin veins."* 
 
 Previously to the settlement of this district by a 
 large body of Europeans, so as to aiford security against 
 attack, the few natives remaining near the spot used to 
 take refuge on this island from the predatory excur- 
 sions of hostile tribes living to the northward. The 
 huts which they used to inhabit on these occasions are 
 perched in niches on different parts of the rock. 
 
 The Waiongona and the Waitera rivers both take 
 their rise in the low range of mountains already de- 
 scribed, which separates the plain of New Plymouth 
 from the valley of the Wanganui and its tributaries. 
 A bridle-road has been marked out by the Company, 
 from a spot eight or ten miles up the banks of the 
 Waiongona, across the said range, and round the 
 eastern spurs of Mount Egmont, so as to communicate 
 with the level country near the mouth of the Waimate 
 river in Cook's Strait. This is a rough road; but has 
 been travelled once or twice by persevering horsemen. 
 It is perfectly practicable for pedestrians. The country 
 traversed is densely wooded, and apparently possesses 
 a rich soil, formed from the accumulation of vegetable 
 deposit, and also from the detritus of the numerous 
 streams which gush down from the mountain. The 
 road emerges from the forest near Waimate, on to open 
 plains, which extend to the distance of six or eight 
 miles from the sea, and are covered with a luxuriant 
 vegetation of grass, flax, fern, and shrubs. 
 
 There is a Wesleyan Missionary establishment at 
 
 * ' Travels in New Zealand,' by Ernest Diejfenbach, M.D. 
 Murray, 1843. Vol. i., ch. vii., p. 104.
 
 AND N. OF DISTRICT. i>79 
 
 Waimate, and a considerable native population, liviug 
 near the mouths of this and several neighbouring 
 rivers. The residence of the European missionary, 
 and the chapels in the native villages, are well-built 
 wooden houses: but the natives themselves still live in 
 very rude huts. 
 
 This part of the country, and indeed the whole of 
 the belt between the sea-shore and the edge of the 
 forest, which extends from Sugar-loaf Point to the 
 N.W. boundary of the Wanganui district, watered by 
 the Wenuakura, and Waitotara, and several smaller 
 rivers which flow into the sea between the Patea and 
 the Wanganui, is of the most fertile description, and 
 admirably adapted for either tillage or pasture. 
 
 The "VVaitera is a considerable river, whose head 
 waters spring from the dividing range of hills close to 
 those of a tributaiy of the Wanganui, called Tangara- 
 kau. There is a bar at the river's mouth, which is 
 nearly dry at low-water of spring tides; but springs 
 rise about 13 feet; and inside the bar the river is 
 navigable for boats for three miles. The country ly- 
 ing immediately on the banks of this river bears a re- 
 markably rich character; and patches of it have been 
 selected by a few natives for their cultivations. 
 
 N. of the Waitera river, the coast rises into 
 cliffs, which attain the height of 100 feet, and form a 
 very conspicuous object from the anchorage of New 
 Plymouth, at about 2o miles' distance from the 
 Waitera's mouth. The lowest formation in this cliff 
 is a marly clay, reaching about 20 feet from the beach; 
 then comes a formation of wood, very little altered or 
 carbonized, and 10 feet in thickness, but irregular; 
 above that is a loamy soil. Several rivers, of which 
 the Mimi, Urenui, Tangaporutu, and Mokau-iti are 
 the principal, water the country between the Mokau 
 and the Waitera. This country resembles that already 
 described: being covered alternately with high fern 
 and forest.
 
 280 CLIMATE. SOIL. 
 
 The Mokau is a considerable river; having a bar- 
 harbour at its mouth, practicable for small craft. It 
 flows from a range of hills called Rangitoto, lying west 
 of Lake Taupo, through a fertile and moderately hilly 
 district. A numerous native population resides on its 
 banks; and a few European missionaries and squatters 
 near its mouth. 
 
 No accurate meteorological tables are known to have 
 been kept at New Plymouth. The Climate resembles 
 in a great degree that of Wanganui, being free from 
 the constant winds of Wellington, and from the fre- 
 quent night-frosts of Nelson. 
 
 The Soil is, perhaps, more uniformly good, and there- 
 fore more suitable for an extensive agricultural settle- 
 ment, than that of any of the others. While there is 
 hardly any tract of land of such extraordinary fertility 
 as that enjoyed by the Hutt and other alluvial valleys, 
 there is also little or none of the comparatively barren 
 hilly clay-land so common in the more mountainous 
 districts of Wellington and Nelson. 
 
 There are but few points of remarkable difference 
 between the animal or vegetable productions, whether 
 indigenous or introduced, of this settlement and those of 
 Wellington, Petre, or Nelson. The following, how- 
 ever, may be noticed: 
 
 I. ANIMAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 Introduced. 
 
 Bees. A New Plymouth correspondent of the New Zenlandcr* of 
 the 10th of February, 1848, says : " Bees thrive here surprisingly. 
 Two years ago there was only one hive of them in the district; this 
 year they tend towards a hundred, and numbers of swarms, as in 
 America, are taking to the woods, and, as there, the harbingers, we 
 hope, of civilization." 
 
 II. VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 
 Indigenous. 
 
 Pltormiiim tcnax, or indigenous flax. When this district was 
 inhabited by a large native population, it was famous for growing 
 
 * A newspaper published at Auckland.
 
 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 281 
 
 iiperior (Dualities of tins plant, as mentioned at page 141"). The 
 cultivation was carried on with great care iu regular plantations, 
 remains of which are often met with to this day. 
 
 Introduced. 
 
 Flux. As may be seen in the return of land in cnllirulion, at 
 page '28$, an experiment has been tried, on a small scale, of growing 
 f.hii/Hi, or European jtax. So far, it is reported to have been emi- 
 nently successful. 
 
 fii-iihi, dr. Mr. Charles Hursthouse, in a letter to the Wellington 
 Spectator, dated " New Plymouth, Nov. 20, 1847,"* reckons the 
 average produce per acre in that settlement for the year 1840, in 
 which year lie says the crop was decidedly deficient in quantity, to 
 have been as follows : Wheat, twenty-fire bushels ; barlry, lu-cnl;/- 
 //'(< bnnlu'ls ; oats, tliiiiy bushels; potatoes eight /<//;?. "Nearly 
 tin- whole," he adds, " of the 83U acres (wheat, 18-10,) grown at 
 Tiirauaki was fern land, which can be cleared and cropped iu the best 
 style for -LI. 10s. per acre ; and this cost will be materially reduced, 
 when cattle cease to be nearly 100/. per cent, dearer here than in 
 other settlements. 
 
 " As farming becomes better understood, and reduced more to a 
 system, I think that the fern lauds of this district will certainly yield 
 an average of 30 bushels of wheat per acre. The heaviest crop, to 
 my knowledge, that has yet been obtained on any large piece, (of 
 course without manure) was 448 bushels from 8 acres 50 bushels; 
 but this season, at Glanavoii (the Messrs. Davy's) there is a field of 
 i - cs which promises 00 bushels per acre. 
 
 " So little bush land has been cultivated, that it would be prema- 
 ture, as yet, to express a very decided opinion as to the extent of its 
 powers ; the crops have been heavier than on fern land, though not 
 generally so line in quality. I have heard that a labourer has grown 
 nearly 04 bushels on an acre, and I know that potatoes yield from 12 
 to 10 tons."+ 
 
 Z'urnips and Munyold-witrzel succeed very well. From '40 lo 40 
 tons per acre were grown in one field in the year 1847. 
 
 III. MINERAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 The following exist iu the district: 
 
 Iron. The " Titanic iron sand," mentioned at page 277, is found 
 all along the sea-beach between Sugarloaf Point and the mouth of 
 the Waitera, twelve miles to the north. It lies in many places in a 
 stratum four feet thick. One of the Colonists has sent to England 
 
 * Published in New Zealand Journal of 17th June, 1848; vol. 
 ix. No. ->X\, page 139. 
 + See, also, page 280. 
 
 B B 2
 
 282 MINERALS. 
 
 for the necessary apparatus, which is now on its way, to make 
 smelting works on a small scale. 
 
 Nickel. A mineral has been found within the site of the town, 
 which is supposed to be nickel. The fact, however, has not yet 
 been tested by any competent authority. 
 
 Coal is said to have been found cropping out of the low sandstone 
 cliff, near the mouth of the Waiwakaio. On the banks of the river 
 Mokau, whose mouth is about 50 miles north of New Plymouth, 
 coal and limestone have both been found in abundance. 
 
 Granite, or rather, perhaps, Hornblende, is to be obtained near 
 Sugarloaf Point, and from the boulders lying along the beach. 
 This has already been used for mill-stones. A pair, 4 feet in diameter, 
 were constructed for Mr. Kebble's steam-mill at Manawatu. 
 
 Sandstone, suitable for building purposes, is quarried on the north 
 bank of the Waiongona,"and in several other parts of the settle- 
 ment. 
 
 Ochre is obtained from the banks of the Waiwakaio, near the 
 foot of Mount Egmont. The natives collect this earth, and after 
 burning it, mix it with shark's oil, so as to produce a bright ver- 
 million paint, with which they adorn their bodies, houses, and 
 canoes. 
 
 Protophosphale of iron is found in small pieces or balls, of an 
 earthy consistence, and of a pale bine colour, in the cliffs which 
 form the sea-coast near the Mimi river, 12 miles north of the 
 Waitera. This is also used as a paint by the natives. 
 
 In November, 1842, Mr. Robert Oxland, analytical 
 chemist at Plymouth, examined some specimens of the 
 above minerals, which had been sent to England. The 
 following analysis was the result: 
 
 " Plymouth, Nov. 14, 1842. 
 
 " SIB, In accordance with Mr. Bridges' request, I have sent 
 you the following report of the minerals from New Plymouth, sent 
 to me for examination : 
 
 " The sample No. I., is a piece of Hornblende rock, the principal 
 constituents of which are silica, magnesia, alumina, containing 
 about twelve per cent, of lime. It is a very hard rough stone, and, 
 if obtainable in any quantity, well adapted for building purposes, 
 and the making of roads. 
 
 " The mineral No. II., from the remains of recent marine shells 
 still attached to it, is evidently from the sea-shore, and is a sample 
 of excellent fine-grained muudic, containing about 50 per cent, of 
 sulphur. It is, therefore, well adapted for the manufacture of sul- 
 phuric acid. 
 
 "No. III. is an earthy phosphate of iron, which is sometimes 
 used in considerable quantities as a pigment. The colour of this
 
 DISTRIBUTION OF LAND. 283 
 
 sample is a delicate bluish grey, and very clean. As this mineral is 
 generally found in a clay or mud, associated with animal remains, 
 it is very probable that the soil from which it is obtained may be 
 found, on examination, to contain phosphates that may be rendered 
 of some considerable value for agricultural purposes. 
 
 " The sample No. IV., marked coal, was probably obtained from 
 a partial deposit of vegetable matter, resembling the coal deposits 
 of the primitive geological districts of Great Britain. Perfect coal 
 would not therefore be likely to be met with in the immediate 
 neighbourhood of such a deposit. 
 
 " Judging from the character of these minerals, if they were all 
 obtained from the same district, the country would be likely to 
 resemble the primitive geological districts of Devon and Cornwall, 
 rich iu metalliferous deposits, but not likely to produce coal. 
 
 " Sample No. V. is magnetic iron ore, in the form of fine sand 
 from the sea-shore. It consists of the peroxide and protoxide of 
 iron mixed, containing about 71 per cent, of iron. It is free from 
 the admixture of other substances, and, if obtainable in large quan- 
 tities, is likely to be, at some future time, in considerable demand, 
 as it is the most valuable of iron ores. The celebrated Swedish 
 iron, in such high repute for the making of steel, is obtained from 
 a mineral of precisely the same character. 
 
 " I am, Sir, your obedient servant, 
 
 "BOBBBT OXXAXD."* 
 
 The Settlement of New Plymouth was originally 
 founded under the following arrangements or plan: 
 
 While it was directed by the Plymouth Company of 
 New Zealand, several different portions of land were 
 disposed of under terms of purchase varying a little at 
 different times in details of no essential importance. 
 But the leading principle was to afford greater encou- 
 ragement to actual Colonists than to absentee pro- 
 prietors, and to hold out better terms to purchasers in 
 England than to purchasers in the Colony. 
 
 A Town, consisting of 2,'200 sections of a quarter of an acre 
 each, was advertised, of which '200 sections were reserved for the 
 natives, and 1000 for future sale under ultimate arrangements. 
 
 A belt of Suburban land was also advertised, to be laid off round the 
 Town, consisting of 10,430 acres, divided into 209 sections of 50 
 acres each ; of which 10 sections were reserved for the natives, and 
 l')0 for leasing to farmers, with aright of purchase. 
 
 * X'.-ic Zealand Journal of '^(ith Nov.. l^i'2, vol. iii., No. To, 
 r . 384
 
 284 DISTRIBUTION OF LAND. 
 
 This first lot was offered at the price of 101. for each Town, 
 and 50/. for each Suburban section. Of this, 40/. was to be spent 
 in Emigration to the Settlement. 
 
 When this first lot, of 1000 Town, and 40 Suburban sections, 
 had been sold, the whole 2200 Town sections were regulated as to 
 priority of choice by one ballot, and the 40 Suburban sections by 
 another. 
 
 600 of the 1000 unsold orders of choice for Town land were 
 afterwards offered for sale to actual Colonists, in batches of 100 at 
 a time, each Town section having attached to it a Rural section of 
 50 acres outside the Suburban Belt. The price was 75/. for Town 
 and Rural section together. The Town choices had to be again 
 balloted for among the purchasers of each batch, and selected 
 according to the order provided for them by the first ballot ; but the 
 Rural sections were to be chosen from the land open for selection 
 in the Settlement, according to order of application to the Company's 
 Agent there. To actual Colonists purchasing a large number of 
 these sections, the inducement was held out of being allowed to 
 purchase some of the best unsold orders of choice for Suburban 
 land, (which had been reserved for leasing but were not so appro- 
 priated,) at comparatively low prices. 
 
 Afterwards the remaining 400 unsold orders of choice were 
 offered to the public in general on similar terms. 
 
 In May, 1841, the Plymouth Company of New 
 Zealand merged in the New Zealand Company. 
 
 Up to that merger, there had been sold altogether 
 1000 Town sections and 54 Suburban sections, to be 
 selected by ballot; and 148 Rural sections, to be 
 selected according to order of application in the Colony. 
 There were, of course, reserved for the natives 200 
 Town sections and 19 Suburban sections. 
 
 The New Zealand Company then offered the remain- 
 ing land upon these terms: 
 
 Two hundred and fifty Town-sections, with their orders of choice 
 as determined by the first ballot, each with a Rural section of 50 
 acres attached, for the total price of 75/., of which 50/. to be spent 
 in emigration to the Settlement. The Town orders of choice to be 
 again balloted for among the purchasers, and the Rural land selected 
 according to order of application in the Colony. 
 
 The remaining 750 Town, J36 Suburban, and at least 750 Rural 
 Sections, to be put up to Public Auction in the Settlement, at upset 
 prices to be fixed from time to time, never lower than original prices 
 in the Settlement. The upset prices were fixed, in October, 1843, 
 at 12f. 10s. per section (\ acre each) for Town; 11 '21. 10s. per
 
 ADJUSTMENT OF TITLE. 285 
 
 section ('(.! acres each) for Suburban; and Gv.'/. 10s. per section 
 (")() acres each) for Rural, laud. 
 
 Under all these different conditions, there had been 
 sold, altogether, up to the 5th of April, 1847, 14,159^ 
 acres of land. No land has been sold in England since 
 that date: but the Company's resident Agent at New 
 Plymouth, in his Monthly Rcpor t for December, 1847,* 
 says: 
 
 " In the course of the mouth, sales of one Rural Section aiid one 
 Town Section have been effected by auction, at tiie upset prices of 
 ('<>/. 10s. nud 121. 10s. respectively." 
 
 During the process of surveying the land required, 
 and before the whole of the sections so purchased had 
 been selected, many natives, as described above, col- 
 lected from various parts of the islands to claim posses- 
 sion of various spots, which they or their parents had 
 occupied previous to their expulsion or captivity by 
 the Waikato tribes, and which had now been made 
 safe to live in by the presence of the Europeans. The 
 delay of the Government in arranging these new 
 claims, which were supported by many vagabond 
 Europeans, who had purchased titles from the claimants, 
 laid the foundation of difficulties which have hitherto 
 interfered seriously with the progress of the Settlement. 
 It was not till June, 1844, that Mr. Spain, Her 
 Majesty's Commissioner of Land Claims, examined 
 into the Company's title, as derived from their original 
 purchase of the district in February, 1840. He re- 
 ported immediately and without hesitation, in favour of 
 the Company's right to a Crown grant of 60,000 acres 
 on the spot selected by them for settlement: but this 
 award was set aside by Governor Fitzroy, who declared 
 his intention of so doing in August of that year, and in 
 November arbitrarily restricted the settlers to a block 
 of 3500 acres immediately around the Town, giving up 
 
 * The Xeie Zealand Journal of July 15th, 1848, rol. ix., 
 No. m, contains at pages 158, 159, the full Reports of this officer 
 for the last six mouths of 1847.
 
 286 COST OF CULTIVATION. 
 
 the rest to the natives. In January, 1845, a Crown 
 grant of this restricted amount was offered to the 
 Principal Agent of the Company and refused.* The 
 present Governor, Captain Grey, met with many ob- 
 stacles to a reversal of this absurd act; especially as 
 the natives, encouraged by so unreasonable a concur- 
 rence with their extortions, flocked in greater numbers 
 to the spot, and some of them threatened to maintain 
 by force the side of the question most agreeable to their 
 own wishes. The Governor, however, by the latest 
 accounts, had succeeded by his firm and yet conciliatory 
 policy in so far overcoming their opposition as to obtain 
 the positive cession, in consideration of an additional 
 payment, of a total amount of 29,000 acres, or amply 
 enough to satisfy all existing claims, and to leave a 
 large remainder for present sale by the Company. 
 
 On account of the uncertainty which has thus long 
 dwelt on the question of title, no accurate account can 
 be given of the price or rent of land. 
 
 The following is a rough estimate, noted from the 
 experience of one or two actual Colonists, of the 
 
 Expenses of Clearing and Cropping Land, and Average Produce, <Lc., 
 at New Plymouth. 
 
 FERN LAND, FIBST YEAE. Per acre. 
 
 s. d. 
 
 Cuttiiig Fern, and uprooting Tutu-stumps . . 10 
 
 Ploughing and Harrowing twice 350 
 
 Baking and burning Fern-roots 10 
 
 Seed, 1$ bushels, at 5s. 6rf 083 
 
 Putting in Seed 050 
 
 Hoeing and keeping clear 050 
 
 Reaping, gathering, and threshing 1 10 
 
 6 19 3 
 
 Average Produce, 22 bushels, at 5s 5 10 
 
 The expenses for the second year would amount to one half, and 
 the average produce would be increased to about 28 bushels of 
 
 * See Appendix to 17th Eeport of New Zealand Company.
 
 PRICES. WAGES. STATISTICS. 287 
 
 wheat, 28 of barley, 36 of oats, or ten tons of potatoes. (Tbis should 
 be compared with Mr. Hnrsthoiise's statements, at page 281.) 
 
 Bush, or wooded land, is cleared at about SI. or 101. per acre ; 
 the other expenses are the same, except seed, of which only one 
 bushel will be required. The produce will average considerably 
 more. 
 
 Good post-and-rail fencing is put up at 10*. per chain of 2*2 yards. 
 
 The prices of agricultural produce may be reckoned 
 as somewhat lower, and those of imported articles as 
 somewhat higher, than at Wellington. As much, 
 however, as l per ton for mangold- wurzel was paid 
 in 1847, for the purpose of feeding cattle, on account 
 of the scarcity of natural pasturage in these fern- 
 covered districts. The New Plymouth correspondent 
 of the Wellington Spectator of December 10, 1847, 
 says: 
 
 "Twenty-two head of cattle recently arrived from Wellington 
 overland, were sold by auction in this settlement on the 1st instant, 
 and realized the following average prices : 9 bullocks, *28/. 4s. per 
 pair ; 4 cows, HI. 6s. each ; 8 heifers, 13/. IGs. 3d. each ; and I 
 steer, 8/." 
 
 By the latest accounts received on the subject, the 
 wages of agricultural labourers were about 2s. 6d., and 
 those of mechanics 5s. a day. 
 
 The greater part of the following Statistical details 
 relating to the settlement were collected in December, 
 1846, by the Government Inspector of Police. The 
 like returns for 1847 have not yet been received. 
 
 Males. Female*. Total. 
 WHITE POPULATION 580 502 1088 
 
 Births. Marriage*. Deaths. 
 In 1845 there were 64 10 
 
 There is no authentic census of the Natire Population. In 1840, 
 hen this district was purchased by the Agents of the New Zealand 
 Company, its whole population did not amount to more than T>0 
 souls : and these lived in constant dread of the attacks of hostile 
 tribes from the north, who bad at various periods killed, captured, 
 or expelled from the district, its former inhabitants. But since the 
 settlement of the place by white people has restored security, num- 
 bers of natives, who had either abandoned the district, or been made 
 slaves and sine* emancipated by the northern tribes, have returned
 
 288 
 
 NEW PLYMOUTH STATISTICS. 
 
 to the spot. Including both banks of the Waitera, and all the 
 country as far south as Sugar-loaf Point, there was probably, early 
 in 1847, a native population of 1000 souls. 
 
 EDUCATION. 
 
 In 1847 there was one Daily Boys' and Girls' School, with about 
 40 scholars of each sex, and 2 Infant Schools, supported partly by 
 the Bishop ; and a private boys' school, with about 25 scholars. 
 
 LAND IN CULTIVATION, end of 1846. 
 
 Nature of Crop. Acres. 
 
 Wheat 839 
 
 Barley 132 
 
 Eye 3 
 
 Oats 74 
 
 Potatoes 133 
 
 Turnips 57 
 
 Maize 1 
 
 Grass 154 
 
 European Flax 1 
 
 Fallow . 122 
 
 Total 1516 
 
 The writer, already quoted, in the New Zealander of Feb. 16, 
 1848, says : " The quantity of land under crop and in fallow this 
 year exceeds 1600 acres, 700 of which are in wheat." 
 
 LIVE STOCK, end of 1846. 
 
 Horses, 22; Mules, 2; Horned Cattle, 363 ; Sheep, 511; Pigs, 
 702; Goats, 96. 
 
 Since that time, the number of live stock is known to have been 
 much increased by importations from Sydney, and also from Wel- 
 lington and Wanganui, overland. 
 
 IMPORTS AND EXPORTS, &c. 
 
 
 Value of 
 
 Inwards. 
 
 Outwards. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Imports. 
 
 Exports. 
 
 Ships. 
 
 Tons. 
 
 Ships. 
 
 Tons. 
 
 1842 
 
 1801 
 
 165 
 
 3 
 
 747 
 
 2 
 
 5UO 
 
 1843 
 1844 
 1845 
 1846 
 
 3125 
 3572 
 542 
 1287 
 
 j.EEE 
 
 4 
 9 
 1 
 2 
 
 688 
 2754 
 44 
 83 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 1 
 
 * 
 
 329 
 608 
 44 
 
 * 
 
 
 10,327 
 
 
 19 
 
 4316 
 
 7 
 
 1580 
 
 No returns were kept of the coasting-trade of this settlement. 
 No returns.
 
 GOVERNMENT FINANCE. MILLS, ETC. 289 
 
 GOVERNMENT REVENUE AND EXPENDITURE. 
 
 s. d. 
 
 Revenue 1842 .. .. 314 10 Expenditure} 
 
 184:) .. .. 75H 15 2 I v 
 
 1844 .. .. 1187 4 S 
 
 1H45 .. .. ]:t(i l(i 10 J 
 
 . 315 10 0* 1401 
 
 ,/. 
 
 No returns. 
 ft 
 
 The detailed account of the Government Receipts 
 and Disbursements for 1846 is as follows: 
 
 RECEIPTS. 
 Ordinary. 
 
 Customs 130 Ot 
 
 Fees and Fines 
 Police Court . . 
 
 Publicans' Li- 
 cences , 
 
 Auctioneers' ditto 
 
 s. d. 
 
 15 10 Ot 
 
 120 Ot 
 50 Ot 
 
 Total Ordinary 315 10 
 
 In Aid of Revenue, 
 Remittances from 
 Colonial Trea- 
 surer .. . 1500 
 
 Total .... 1815 10 
 
 DlSBUBSEMENTS. 
 
 Civil Establishment. 
 Dep. of Sub-Trea- 
 
 Customs 
 Harbour- 
 
 master 
 
 20 
 150 
 
 40 
 
 Total Civil.. 216 
 Judicial, 
 Police ., . 1185 5 
 
 Total .... 1401 ft 
 
 On the river Huatoki and its tributaries there are 
 already three Flour-mills; one of which drives one 
 pair, and another two pair of stones. The third is on 
 a much larger scale. The Wellington Spectator of the 
 16th of April, 1848, gives the following account of 
 
 " NATIVE MILLS. A very excellent water-mill with one pair of 
 stones has been erected within the last eight months at Warea, about 
 twenty-six miles south of New Plymouth, at which, we are informed, 
 a considerable quantity of wheat has already been ground. The ma- 
 chinery nn^ other parts of the mill requiring European labour, 
 amounting to 250/., were paid for in pigs and other native produce. 
 
 * 13y estimate of Mr. Grinistone, before receipt of the Official 
 Returns. The actual sum was probably greater, as under the head 
 of Customs an Official Return gives 212/. 17s. Or/., and Mr. G. 
 only allows 1 :(((/. 
 
 4- Estimated by Mr. Grimstone before receipt of Official Returns. 
 
 c c
 
 290 NEW PLYMOUTH DIRECTORY. 
 
 A mill is also in the course of erection near Waimate,* about eight 
 miles inland, which will be finished in the course of the next six 
 months. Another mill has also been built at Waimate by the Ran- 
 gitapu natives within seven miles of the former, and is now in ope- 
 ration. In both the mills last named the machinery and construction 
 of the building has been performed by European labour, which has 
 been paid for, as in the case of Warea, with pigs and other native 
 produce. Each mill will be under the management of Europeans. 
 These mills include a line of country of about sixty miles, and will 
 greatly extend the cultivation of wheat among the natives. In other 
 parts along the coast where there are no water-mills, the natives are 
 well provided with steel flour mills." 
 
 There are four thrashing-machines, worked by cattle. 
 One of them was constructed in the Settlement. 
 
 The following is a Directory for New Plymouth :t 
 
 Resident Magistrate Captain H. King, R.N. 
 
 Justices of the Peace Captain H. King; D. M'Lean, J. 
 
 Webster, J. G. Cooke, G. Cutfield, J. T. Wicksteed, J. 
 
 Flight, W. Halse, and P. Wilson, Esqrs. ; and Captain M. 
 
 Campbell. 
 
 Inspector of Police D. M'Lean, Esq. 
 
 Sub-Collector of Customs, 5 
 
 Harbour-master, and > J. Webster, Esq. 
 
 Post-master 3 
 
 Pilot Mr. J. Watson. 
 
 Resident Agent of the Neiv 1 , v , x 
 
 Zealand Company ..^ 
 Clergy Rev. H. Govett, B.A..J Church of 
 
 England ; Rev. H. H. Turton, Wesleyan ; R. Ward, Primi- 
 tive Methodist. 
 
 There are three Legal Practitioners ; three Medical Practi- 
 tioners, one of whom is M.D., and four Mercantile Firms. There 
 are no Military at New Plymouth ; but a small corps of Armed 
 Police has been organized. 
 
 Mails are despatched to Wellington, Auckland, and Nelson, at 
 
 * See page 278. 
 
 + By a recent Proclamation, New Plymouth is included in " New 
 Ulster," or the Northern Province : and is thus governedrrom Auck- 
 land, although in more natural connexion with the Cook's Strait 
 Settlements. It is understood, however, that this arrangement may 
 yet be revised, if the inhabitants desire it. The last accounts re- 
 ceived describe them as wishing to remain in the Northern Province. 
 
 J Salary 150 per annum, with residence. 
 
 New Plymouth is attached to Auckland for judicial purposes ; 
 a very inconvenient arrangement, as most of the commerce of tln> 
 place is carried on with Wellington and Nelson.
 
 PROJECTED SCOTCH COLONY. 291 
 
 the discretion of the Postmaster, by occasional coasting and other 
 vessels: and tin; overland mail, between the two first of those 
 places, passes through New Plymouth each way once a fortnight.* 
 
 The present Governor-in-Chief, Sir George Grey, has purchased 
 the house formerly inhabited by the Resident Agent of the Company : 
 and has expressed his intention to reside here during a great part of 
 the year. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Free Church of Scotland Colony projected in 1843 Exploring 
 Expedition to select site Country on the East Coast of Middle 
 Island Authorities Otayo District Inland Water Commu- 
 n'n'iition Face of Country Otago Harbour Proposed Sites 
 nl' Dnncdin and Port Chalmers Sailing Directions Rural 
 Districts Downs Taieri Plain Waiora Lake Tokomairiro 
 Plain Clutha, or Molynen.r, River Lagoons Plain of the 
 Chitha, Bluff Harbour New Rircr Jacob's River Chalky 
 and Dusky J3ys Milford Haven Country beta-ecu Banks's 
 Peninsula and Otago Irregular Settlements Climate 
 Weather-Tables Natural Productions Minerals Coal 
 Greenstone Free Church Association Plan of Colonization, 
 agreed upon Completion of Surveys Departure of First 
 Colonists Provision for Education Land Sold Subsequent 
 Emigration. 
 
 As far back as the year 1 843, a settlement had been 
 projected by an Association of members of the Free 
 Church of Scotland, to be founded in the territory, and 
 under the auspices, of the New Zealand Company. 
 When Captain Fitzroy was appointed Governor of 
 New Zealand in that year, he carried out instructions 
 from Lord Stanley, in compliance with the earnest re- 
 quest of the intended Colonists themselves, to assign 
 Port Cooper, on Banks's Peninsula, as the site for the 
 Scotch Colony (at that time named New Edinburgh), 
 provided that a better site could not be found on the 
 same Middle Island. Mr. Tuckett, having been ap- 
 pointed by the New Zealand Company (whose Chief 
 Surveyor at Nelson he had been) to conduct the pre- 
 liminary steps for the formation of the proposed Settle- 
 ment of New Edinburgh, suggested the propriety of 
 previously exploring the south-western and southern 
 * See p. XilU.
 
 292 COUNTRY ON THE EAST COAST 
 
 coasts of the Middle Island, in order to determine the 
 most desirable site a suggestion that was immediately 
 adopted. The brigantine Deborah, Captain Wing, was 
 accordingly chartered for this purpose; and the explor- 
 ing party sailed from Nelson on the 31st of March 
 1844. Besides Mr. Tuckett, on whom the responsible 
 office of selecting the site of the new Colony entirely 
 devolved, and Mr. Symonds. the officer appointed by 
 Governor Fitzroy to superintend and assist in effecting 
 a valid purchase of the requisite amount of land, the 
 brigantine conveyed from Nelson, Dr. Monro, Messrs. 
 Wither, Wilkinson, Barnicoat, and Davidson, the two 
 latter in the capacity of draughtsmen and surveyors. 
 The Rev. Mr. Volhers, a German clergyman, also em- 
 braced the opportunity thus afforded him, of seeking a 
 suitable scene for his missionary labours. The Debo- 
 rah first proceeded to Wellington, whence she set sail 
 o;i the 2nd, and arrived at Port Cooper on the 5th of 
 April. Of this exploratory expedition Dr. Monro pub- 
 lished an extended narrative in the Nelson Examiner.* 
 Mr. Tuckett also kept a Diary, which was published 
 in London for the above-mentioned Association, but is 
 now out of pi'int. Colonel Wakefield, likewise, in a 
 letterf to the Secretary of the New Zealand Company, 
 gives an able account of the Otago district, which was 
 finally selected, and of his perambulation of it, previous 
 to the final completion of its purchase. Captain W. 
 Mein Smith, R.A., had examined the coast and adjoin- 
 ing country, between Cape Campbell and Foveaux's 
 Strait, in the latter end of 1842; and reported, in pur- 
 suance of instructions from Colonel Wakefield, as to 
 the best site within that space for a new Settlement. ^ 
 Mr. Joseph Thomas, who resided in the district for 
 
 * Re-published in the New Zealand Journal, Vol. vi., 1845, at 
 No. 135, p. 55 ; No. 138, p. 95 ; No. 140, p. 119 ; No. HI, p. 131 ; 
 and No. 149, p. 232. 
 
 f Printed in the Appendix to the New Zealand Company's 17th 
 Report, p. 131, No. 36. 
 
 J For Extracts from this Report, see New Zealand Journal of 
 August 19, 1813, Vol. iv., No. 95, page H3.
 
 OF THE MIDDLE ISLAND. 293 
 
 about twelve months between April 1846 and April 
 1847 being engaged during a great part of that time 
 in the performance of a surveying-contract for the New 
 Zealand Company, returned to England in 1848, and 
 communicated to several persons in this country the 
 result of his observations.* 
 
 From these numerous authorities, many of which 
 have been already quoted in a Pamphlet called the 
 Otago Journal,^ the following account of the Otago 
 District is collated. 
 
 It must be premised, that the chain of Southern 
 Alps, already mentioned at pages 41 and 214 rises 
 within ten or twelve miles of the East Coast of the Mid- 
 dle Island, from the Kaikora or Lookers-on Inlet as 
 far Soutk as the latitude of Banks's Peninsula, leaving 
 a plain between its foot and the sea-coast. South of 
 Banks's Peninsula, however, this snowy range diverges 
 towards the West Coast, thus leaving at the South end 
 of the Middle Island, a vast undulating prairie, com- 
 posed of high downs covered with grass, and admirably 
 suited for pasture, alternately with extensive alluvial 
 valleys. The following quotations will serve to give 
 an idea of this part of the Island, the most central po- 
 sition in which is occupied by the Otago District. 
 
 The Hon. Henry W. Petre says: 
 
 " According to the accounts from captains of whaling ships, who 
 had visited Port Otago, and who were questioned on the subject by 
 Colonel Wakefield, the winter there is scarcely less mild than at 
 Port Nicholson ; and native inhabitants of the place have concurred 
 in declaring that snow remains only on the hills. The growth of 
 vines at Akaroa, in Banks's Peninsula, which were planted by the 
 French Colonists in the depth of winter, almost proves the mild- 
 ness of the climate in that place. And Major Bunbury, m his 
 ReportJ to Governor Hobson of a voyage to the southward in Her 
 
 * This gentleman has since been despatched by the Canterbury 
 Association to select a site for their projected Colony. See p. 18. 
 
 Two Numbers have been published in Edinburgh. Can be 
 procured at New Zealand House, price 2d. each. 
 
 f This Keport will be found entire in Par. Papers, Correspond- 
 ence, N. Z., llth May, 1841, No. 311, p. 105. 
 c c 2
 
 294 CAPABILITIES OF OTAGO 
 
 Majesty's slip Herald, dated 28th June, l!S40, (the dead of winter,) 
 in .speaking of Stewart's Island, the southern extremity of New 
 Zealand, says ' In some excursions I made, I was much pleased 
 ' with the fertile appearance of this beautiful island ; and although 
 ' the winter was so far advanced, it was not so cold as I had antici- 
 ' pated from its being so far to the south. Indeed, the number of 
 ' parroquets seen flying about gave it rather the appearance of a 
 ' tropical island.' 
 
 " The cassowary* has also been seen in different parts of the 
 island ; and I am told by Captain Stuart, that he has seldom found 
 snow to lie here for any number of days, even in the depth of 
 winter." * * * 
 
 " In this way, settlement after settlement will be formed on both 
 Islands. On the Middle Island there are several very eligible sites 
 for the purpose, though little known. The soil is excellent; there 
 is abundance of cool, and I believe the climate is imich milder than 
 that of England. Major Bunbury, in the Report which 1 have 
 already quoted, speaks as follows of this Island : ' At Akaroa we 
 ' found a native village, and some Europeans connected with whaling 
 establishments. A Captain Lethart, of Sydney, also here since the 
 ' 10th of November last, has established a cattle run with about thirty 
 ' head of horned cattle, and has two stock-men in charge of them. 
 ' From the appearance of this herd, I arn inclined to believe the pas- 
 ' turage much better than at the Bay of Islands. Potatoes, grown 
 ' from this to the southward, are unquestionably of a superior quality, 
 ' and in no respect inferior to those grown in Van Diemen's Land. 
 
 " ' The country has a very picturesque and park-like appearance, 
 ' and seems well adapted for farms where both arable and pasture 
 ' lauds are required, yielding a mixed produce. 
 
 ' ' On leaving Tavai Poenammoo, or the Middle Island,' conti- 
 nues Major Bunbnry, ' I was forcibly struck with the bleak and 
 ' savage appearance of its chain of mountains covered with eternal 
 ' snow, as viewed from the sea, and contrasted with the real amenity 
 ' of its climate, and fertility of the soil near the coast. I am inclined 
 ' to believe that the capabilities of this Island for purposes of ngii- 
 ' culture have been much underrated, to say nothing of its splendid 
 ' harbours and mineralogical productions.' " Hon. H. W. Pclre's 
 'Account of New Zealand.' London, 1841, pp. 84, 80, 87. 
 
 The present Governor of New Zealand, Sir George 
 Grey: 
 
 " In my recent visit to the Southern Settlements, an opportunity 
 offered of my examining a portion of the country lying in the vici- 
 nity of the port of Otago, at which I understand a Settlement is to 
 be formed ; indeed, I am informed, that the first emigrants are 
 already on their voyage from England for the purpose of occupying 
 this locality. 
 
 * The Weka,oi Wood-hen, (see page JGJJ.)
 
 DISTRICT FOR SETTLEMENT. -,M>") 
 
 " 1 nni happy to be able to state tbat I have never seen any 
 locality which appeared to me better adapted for the occupation of 
 liiitish settlers; and from the fertility of the soil, the unequalled 
 facilities which it offers for the depasturing of sheep and cattle, and 
 its general remarkable advantages, there can be no doubt that the 
 Southern portion of the Middle Island offers prospects of the most 
 cheering kind to the intending emigrants, of whose ultimate suc- 
 cess there can be no doubt. * * * I believe that, with the ad- 
 vantage of possessing from its earliest days the presence of au effi- 
 cient local Government, the progress of the Settlements formed in 
 this Southern province would be so rapid, that it would shortly 
 yield a large surplus revenue. 
 
 " It will be seen, from Lieut. -Colonel Bunbury's Report to Go- 
 vernor Hobson, of the vJHth June, 1*40, that this Officer, even at 
 that date, fully reported the apparent capabilities of the Southern 
 portion of the Middle Island, and my own observations lead me en- 
 tirely to concnr in his views; in fact. 1 have never seen a country 
 better adapted for the reception of Immigrants." * * * Ex- 
 trai-ts frdin a Despatch, dated Government House, Auckland, l(Jlh 
 March, 1*4*, addressed, ly Governor Grey, to the Secretary of 
 Xtntc for the Colonies. 
 
 The Bishop of New Zealand: 
 
 " January 9 (184i). At sunset, from the top of the last hill at 
 the S.W. angle of the (Banks's) Peninsula, we obtained a magnifi- 
 cent view over the vast plains of the south. Below us stretched out 
 the apparently interminable line of the ' ninety miles beach' a con- 
 tinuous range of uniform shingle, without head-land or bay. Will. in 
 this shingle bank is a great lake, Waihora, * * * * eighteen miles 
 in length. Beyond the lake are plains of vast extent, bounded by a 
 range of snowy mountains, behind which the sun was setting. * 
 * * January 17. The Wait an gi River (south of Banks's Penin- 
 sula) runs from west to east, through a vast plain of forty or fifty 
 inil.'s in length, and about twelve in width, stretching east and west, 
 without a tree or shrub. * * * January 1*. Walked over a 
 beautiful grass plain, at first altogether without trees, but after 
 twelve miles, covered with the Ti palm. * * * January 1!). 
 Remained at Moerangi (south of Ihe Waitangi), a whaling station, 
 but of a better stamp than those which I had seen on the Peninsula, 
 the men having employed their spare time in agriculture, and having 
 good crops of wheat and potatoes on the ground. * * * 
 January 2tt. The wind being contrary, I stayed at Waikouaiti 
 (south of Moerangi), and walked over the Settlement, visiting most 
 of the English Settlers, many of whom had good fields of corn 
 nrarly ready for harvest. In the afternoon, rode to a large farm 
 belonging to Mr. Jones, a merchant of Sydney, where 1 saw a noble 
 field of wheat of fifty acres, and a very large stock of cows, sheep,
 
 296 CAPABILITIES OF OTAGO 
 
 and horses." 'Annals of the Diocese of New Zealand.' London, 
 1847. pp. 116 to 1^0. 
 
 Mr. Tuckett: 
 
 " I Lave omitted to mention, that from Moeraugi (3b miles North 
 of Otago) to this place (Otago), the stalks and leaves of the pota- 
 toes, wherever cultivated, were as verdant as at midsummer ; the 
 distance of the snowy mountains west of these parts of the island 
 more than compensating, in respect to climate, for its southern 
 latitude ; whilst, in superiority of soil, it possesses a decided advan- 
 tage over most of the districts of availahle land on the island adjacent 
 to Cook's Strait." Tucfcelt's Report, p. 34, 35. 
 
 Dr. Monro: 
 
 " The village of Tuturau (that lies far in the interior, in the 
 route from Otogo to the Bluff Harbour in Foveaux Strait) is spoken 
 of by whites and natives as being situated in a district of remarkable 
 fertility. The natives residing there are reported to be extensive 
 cultivators of wheat. Indeed, the whole country between the Bluff 
 and the Clutha (Molyneux) inland is said to be available, and such 
 as to present no serious obstacle to the formation of a road." 
 Monro, p. 55. 
 
 " On the whole, the result of this interesting trip must be the 
 firm conviction in the minds of all who took a part in it, of the ample 
 field for colonization afforded by the Middle Island of New Zealand. 
 It may be considered as ascertained that a vast tract of country, ex- 
 tending from sixty miles north of Port Cooper (in Bauks's Penin- 
 sula) to Jacob's River at the southern extremity of the island, admits 
 of occupation in one unbroken line. How far into the interior such 
 country may extend, it is still undetermined ; but the great success 
 attending this expedition cannot but have generated a belief that 
 farther exploration will be rewarded by farther discoveries." Ibid., 
 p. 56. 
 
 " On the large plain, from what I learnt, the climate appears to 
 be a good deal like our own.* 
 
 " The summer is said to be very warm, with much bright weather, 
 and less rain than could be desired ; and the frosts of winter are 
 sharp. This is, in fact, what is generally observed on large open 
 levels : the thermometer is higher in summer and lower in winter 
 than in countries of irregular surface; at the same time, within the 
 twenty -four hours, its range is greater. The frosts, as might be 
 expected, set in sooner on the Port Cooper plain than to the north- 
 ward. A fortnight before we arrived, there had been a frost which 
 withered the potato stalks. At Otago, on the other hand, which 
 we did not reach till the 24th of April, though so much farther 
 
 * That of Nelsou.
 
 DISTRICT FOR SETTLEMENT. 297 
 
 south, and later in the season, we found the potatoes still green and 
 flourishing. It. thus appears thai the frost set in at Port Cooper at 
 least a month sooner than at Otago." lliiil., p. .")"<. 
 
 " On the whole, the east coast of the Middle Island much ex- 
 ceeded my anticipations, which, however, I may mention, were by 
 iiD means extravagant. It otters a large extent of level and undu- 
 lating land; while the circumstance of its beiug covered with grass 
 is of the greatest importance, as affording to industry a natural pro- 
 duction of inestimable value, capable of being converted, with the 
 smallest amount of labour or outlay, into a source of wealth and 
 abundance. * * * * Altogether this portion of the country has 
 much more the appearance of being matured, and has an older and 
 more respectable look (than the North Island.) You do not see 
 those numberless sharp, fresh-fractured looking ridges which cut 
 up the surface. * * * * On the contrary, the outline of the hills is 
 more rounded and swelling, with expanded tops, while plains lie at 
 their feet, resulting from the same causes which have produced the 
 rounded outline of the former, what geologists term ' degradation,' 
 viz., the wishing down of the more elevated portions of the laud, by 
 the long-continued action of the elements. The geological struc- 
 ture of the country appeared to me of an older character than that 
 of the North Island. Thus in Banks's Peninsula we find an old 
 vesicular trap at Moernngi, Waikouaiti, and Otago, we ntct with 
 the coal formation and old basaltic rocks between Molyneux (the 
 Clutha) and Toetoe* the coast consists of grand and lofty cliffs of 
 dark red sandstone, the strata of which rise not towards the interior 
 of the country, but towards the sea. * * * * There is a very large 
 field for the production of wool along the c;:st coast of this island, 
 and I am convinced that it can be grown with greater profit there than 
 in any part of Australia. * * * There is abundance of water enabling 
 the flock-master to wash his wool thoroughly ; and the climate of 
 this country is particularly favourable to the constitution of the 
 sheep. Having seen most of the Australian colonies, and acquired 
 a little experience at some expense, I see no occupation which 
 affords so good a prospect of rapid return upon the money invested, 
 us sheep-grazing in this country, wherever pasture is sufficiently 
 abundant ; and there is a great extent of grass laud between Banks's 
 Peninsula and the Bluff." Ibid., p. 234. 
 
 The New Zealand Company has received a Crown 
 grant, under the seal of the territory, dated 13th of 
 April, 1846, of the portion of this District which pos- 
 sesses the most central position, combined with other 
 advantages. It is a well-defined block of land, com- 
 
 * Half-way between the Clutha Kivcr and Bluff Harbour.
 
 298 DESCRIPTION OF THE 
 
 prehending 400,000 acres, situated on the east coast of 
 the Middle Island, about 150 miles south of Banks's 
 Peninsula, extending from S. lat. 45 40', to S. lat. 
 46 20'; it has a noble harbour; abundance of untim- 
 bered fertile land and open grassy pastures, interspersed 
 with an adequate supply of wood; a navigable inland 
 water communication running up the centre of the 
 block for nearly its entire length, and the richest land 
 lying on either side of it, remarkably well watered: 
 with an ample field of coal; and to the west, and 
 stretching away to the feet of the snowy mountains, an 
 unbounded sheep-walk, open to the farmer and flock- 
 owner; a series of combined advantages rarely to be 
 met with within such a moderate compass. It is de- 
 scribed in the following quotations: 
 Dr. Monro says: 
 
 " Tbe block from winch it is proposed to select the lands of the 
 New Edinburgh settlement, has a coast line of from fifty to sixty 
 miles in length, lying between the mouth of Otago harbour and a 
 headland called the Noggetts, about three miles S. W. of the Clutha. 
 It extends to an average distance inland of seven miles. The more 
 hilly portions near the coast being omitted, the sections will be 
 taken in one continuous line, extending throughout the whole dis- 
 trict, branching out at various points, so as to include all that is 
 most desirable. The most remarkable feature in this district is the 
 great facility of internal water communication. To so great an 
 extent will this invaluable privilege be enjoyed, that no section will 
 be far from, and many will be adjacent to, a navigable river or 
 lagoon. In point of land, certainly there need not be an inferior 
 section in the whole settlement. 
 
 " The southernmost portion of this block is watered by the rivers 
 Puerua, Koau, and Clutha, besides a multitude of smaller streams. 
 The two last-named rivers are navigable for vessels of considerable 
 tonnage. Connected with one another, and with the Clutha, by 
 navigable streams, are the shallow lagoons of Kaitangata and Kan- 
 gitoto, one and six miles long respectively. Their fertile shores 
 will furnish an admirable series of sections; the only drawback to 
 which is the scarcity (not the absence) of wood. The head of the 
 Rangitoto lagoon is about eighteen miles from the mouth of the 
 Clutha ; and here, in this direction, water communication ceases. 
 There is no formidable obstacle to the formation of a road between 
 this and the plain of the Tokomairiro. The plain itself is about 
 7000 acres in extent, and consists entirely of grass ; the neighbour-
 
 OTAGO BLOCK. 299 
 
 ing bills also are "nearly destitute of wood. Though well watered, 
 it is free from swamps. From tliis valley tliere is almost a level 
 pass iuto that of the Taieri, where water communication again 
 commences, and hy means of the Waihola lagoon and the Taieri 
 river, continues uninterrupted to within about nine miles of the 
 Otago harbour. The Waihola and Rangitoto lagoons are about 
 twelve miles apart. The plain of the Taieri is swampy to a large 
 extent ; but, on the whole, will be a valuable district. The river of 
 the same name flows into the sea about twenty or thirty miles south 
 of Otago. For the first five miles from its mouth, it is confined 
 within lofty and precipitous hills, that barely afford it room to pass. 
 Beyond this the valley suddenly opens, and the river branches, lead- 
 ing to the Waihola on the south, and passing through the bulk of 
 the valley on the north. Like the preceding districts, this is rather 
 bare of wood. 
 
 " Between the Taieri and Otago, the country consists chiefly of 
 hills of moderate elevation, covered with a good soil. Over them, 
 and through the passes between, a practicable road might readily be 
 formed." -Munro, pp. 53, 50. 
 
 Colonel Wakefield: 
 
 " At Port Cooper, half of the labourers' time would be consumed in 
 bringing fuel from a distance from any suitable site for a settlement ; 
 and it may be safely asserted that a section of fifty acres there would 
 not pay the cost of fencing, and building on it, in the course of the 
 owner's life. The neighbourhood of Otago is essentially, as was 
 observed to me by a labouring man from Nelson, a poor man's 
 country containing good land and plenty of wood. The plains in 
 the vicinity of Banks's Peninsula would be more appropriately 
 colonised under a system of division of the land into sections of not 
 less than a square mile each, with facilities to Hock-holders and 
 capitalists to acquire a contiguous property to an extent to meet 
 their means and wishes. Happily the block of land purchased by 
 the Company for the settlement of New Edinburgh, out of which we 
 are at liberty to select 130,000 acres to meet the engagements made 
 with purchasers, contains in the immediate neighbourhood of the 
 good land that will be surveyed as properties, extensive tracts of 
 excellent pasture grounds, which will be open to all under the sanc- 
 tion of the Government ; and outside the boundary of the block to the 
 westward, there is an extent of land of the same nature boundless to 
 the view, untrodden by the foot of man, and affording abundant food 
 for sheep and cattle during the whole year, with the exception of a 
 frw weeks in the winter, when the uplands are covered with snow, 
 during which time the plains and valleys yield a more abundant 
 herbage than in the heats of summer." 
 
 It has been determined to found the Town of the 
 proposed Scotch colony, to be called Dunedin, at the
 
 300 SITES OF DUNEDIN 
 
 Southern end with a port-town, to be called Port 
 Chalmers, on the West shore of the narrow channel 
 between the outer and inner portions of the harbour of 
 Otago, which is situated, as described, at the Northern 
 extremity of the Block. 
 
 The harbour is thirteen miles long, by an average 
 width of two miles, with six fathoms of water for seven 
 miles up, from the Heads to the Islands, and with three 
 fathoms for the remaining six miles, up to the very 
 head of the harbour; perfectly sheltered; the tide runs 
 at the rate of three miles an hour, which will aid a 
 vessel in working up and down the harbour. The 
 harbour runs in a direction nearly north and south, 
 and opens towards the meridian sun, which is justly 
 esteemed a great advantage. The Capital Town of 
 Dunedin will stand at the very head of the harbour, in 
 a situation of great natural beauty, and connecting the 
 rural land of the interior with the sea- port. 
 
 Colonel Wakefield says: 
 
 " The first impressions created by the sight of the harbour nre 
 extremely favourable. Lying open to the north, it is entered with 
 a fair wind from the other Settlements of New Zealand, and from 
 Australia. 
 
 " This also prevents any delay at the Heads, on leaving the port. 
 A fair wind out of harbour takes a vessel soon free of the land, and, 
 if seized at the commencement, may carry a ship of average sailing 
 qualities to Cook's Strait in forty-eight hours. 
 
 " The distance between Port Nicholson and Otago is 820 miles. 
 There is no lee-shore, except in the bays along this coast, with the 
 winds that usually blow with any violence. That from the north- 
 east is known for its mild character. Its northern aspect, more- 
 over, renders Otago much more agreeable than if it opened to the 
 south,* as do Akaroa, Port Underwood, and Port Nicholson. The 
 morning sun enlivens every part of the harbour, which is protected 
 from the cold wind by an amphitheatre of hills. The wind prevails 
 from the S. W., which draws right down and out of the harbour ; 
 but this need not prevent a vessel bound to the place, and unable to 
 enter the port in consequence of its strength, from anchoring in 
 perfect safety at about a quarter of a mile from the eastern head 
 
 * It will be remembered that in the Southern hemisphere the sun 
 is North at noon.
 
 AND PORT CHALMERS. 301 
 
 (called Tniroa's head,) in smooth water of about eight fathoms 
 di'plli, with good holding ground. Ample sea-room presents itself 
 to strange vessels unable to fetch into the anchorage before night- 
 fall. The sand-banks which lie immediately within the Heads are 
 of inconsiderable extent, and have, according to Captain Wing, who 
 sounded carefully all over the entrance, three fathoms and a half of 
 water on them at dead low water, spring tides. The tide runs about 
 three miles an hour, and may be made good use of in working a 
 vessel up or down the harbour; as the port is land-locked on three 
 sides, the sea seldom rises on the banks : and the sandy nature of 
 the bottom prevents damage to small vessels touching it. Pilots 
 and buoys will hereafter render the channel extremely easy to navi- 
 gate vessels not exceeding five hundred tons burthen up to the 
 islands; but larger vessels will find safe anchorage a mile inside the 
 Hi-ads abreast of the village, which has sprung up there from its 
 having been the site of a whaling station, and the residence of the 
 natives visiting the harbour on their voyages from Banks's Penin- 
 sula to Foveanx's Strait. An American whaler of 000 tons was 
 lying there- lately to refresh. A great advantage presents itself at 
 Otago over Port Cooper, in the abundance of timber and fire-wood 
 that grow on its shores." 
 
 " Before leaving Hoputai, which you will observe by the chart is 
 a small bay near the islands, and about mid-way between the en- 
 trance of the harbour and its head, I examined with Mr. Tuckett 
 the capabilities it affords for the site of a seaport town. The land 
 available for building around and contiguous to the bay, consists of 
 about 150 acres. The face towards two sides of the bay is steep, 
 but on the top there is table land, and at the base sufficient level to 
 afford room for a road. Warehouses might be also built almost 
 even with the water, by excavating back into the hill. The great 
 advantages of the site are, its being perfectly sheltered both from 
 wind and swell of the sea, and having four and five fathoms water 
 close to a sufficient part of its shores for the construction of ample 
 wharfs and quays. 
 
 " The shores of the harbour of Otago are, as I have already said, 
 densely wooded. The hills are not so steep as around Port Nichol- 
 son; and the soil is, generally speaking, better adapted for hus- 
 bandry. The distance from the heads of the port to its termination 
 is about fourteen miles. A channel runs throughout its whole 
 length ; but it has not yet been precisely ascertained what depth of 
 water there is to the south of the islands, or in the upper harbour, 
 as it may be called. Near the islands there are L"> fathoms, ami a 
 small vessel that took some of the surveyors and stores, carried 
 three fathoms all the way up the harbour. When the channel is 
 marked with stakes on the sand-banks, similarly to the upper part 
 of Portsmouth harbour, and with two or three buoys near the en- 
 trance, no harbour that I have seen will be more convenient; but 
 P D
 
 302 SITES OF DUNED1N 
 
 in order to make it the most safe and commodious harbour of New 
 Zealand, it requires a small steam-tug, which, when not engaged in 
 towing vessels in or out, might be advantageously employed in ply- 
 ing between the Port and the Town." 
 
 " On the whole 1 consider Otago as an excellent harbour. It 
 lias hitherto been thought to have a bar at its entrance, whicli is 
 not the case. For picturesque beauty, Otago only yields to Akaroa 
 amongst the harbours of New Zealand." 
 
 Dr. Monro: 
 
 " On the 24th of April, the exploring vessel entered the noble 
 harbour of Otago. The entrance is narrow a little more than a 
 quarter of a mile only; and, as there cannot be short of thirty 
 square miles of tidal water within, the current at the mouth is 
 strong. The harbour is divided into an inner and an outer, by two 
 islands that lie across it. The former is about six miles in length, 
 and the latter about seven. The average width of either is about 
 two miles. The channels leading from the one harbour to the other 
 are narrow and deep. A great portion of the space within both 
 harbours consists of shallows ; and every tide discovers several 
 large dry banks. Still, enough of deep water remains to render 
 either an extensive and valuable harbour. Nothing can be more 
 perfect than the shelter it affords ; and its fertile shores, wooded to 
 the water's edge, form a picture of no ordinary beauty." Monro, 
 p. 55. 
 
 Mr. Tuckett: 
 
 " Saturday, 27th. Landed at the head of the inner or upper 
 harbour, the length of which must be full seven miles, that of the 
 lower about six. On either side the forest continues unbroken; 
 good timber is abundant ; the soil, notwithstanding that the surface 
 is often rocky and stony, appears to be fertile, the rock being pro- 
 bably a species of basalt. There is certainly more available and 
 eligible land on the shores of this vast inland sea, than on any 
 portion of Banks's Peninsula; and in respect of the facility of con- 
 structing a road, it possesses a corresponding superiority. A space 
 of less than a quarter of a mile intervenes at the head of the harbour 
 between it and the ocean shore ; here, for a space of two miles, 
 there is a water frontage to the harbour of unwooded land rising 
 gently inland. Landing, I followed the native track for about two 
 miles towards the Taieri, and then returned to the bosit at this point. 
 It offers an ornamental and commodious site for a town, most suit- 
 able in every respect, save the distance from the deep water of the 
 lower harbour ; the channel throughout is on the west side, and 
 generally narrow, and a fathom and a half of water would be found 
 to within two miles of the extremity of the harbour. Two -thirds of 
 the space covered by the flood is left dry at the ebb. Whilst I was 
 there, (he surface of the water was almost unruffled, and no swell
 
 D TORT CHALMEi 303 
 
 entered from the ocean, where the entrance is narrow. The schooner 
 lay without motion." Tuclcett, p. 37. 
 
 Colonel Wakefield again: 
 
 " To pursue the narrative of our perambulation of the boundaries. 
 On arriving at the head of the upper harbour, an unexceptionable 
 site for a town presents itself to the view. The character of the 
 country here entirely changes. The land lies in long slopes or 
 downs, upon which grows good grass, mixed with shrubs, indicative 
 of a strong soil. The aspect of the town win be northerly (facing 
 the meridian sun), and fronting the harbour. To the west of it 
 some undulating slopes, covered to the water's edge with beautiful 
 timber and copse wood, offer space for several hundred ten-acre 
 sections, semicircling a cove, almost dry at low water. To the south 
 the uplands, which separate the large promontory, in which the 
 harbour is found, from die level pastoral country of the main, rise 
 gradually as a protection from the cold winds. To the eastward is 
 an opening in the chain of hills that belts the coast between the 
 eastern head of Otago and Cape Saunders, across which extends a 
 barrier of recent sandy formation, shutting out the sea, which in 
 former times evidently flowed through what is now the harbour of 
 Otago. The site of the town thus fixed at the head of the naviga- 
 tion of the port, and at the commencement of the rural lands of the 
 settlement in their whole length, abounds in wood and fresh water. 
 The waters of the harbour teem with fiah of the best sort. The 
 liabouka* is taken in great quantities near the shipping town ; flat 
 fish and oysters in all the b 
 
 returned to Otago on the 26th of July. The proposed site 
 of the town pleased me more on a closer inspection, and the next 
 day I had my good opinion of it confirmed by Mr. Commissioner 
 Spain, with whom I again visited it, and who pronounced it an 
 admirable position for the purpose. * * * * The only objection 
 that I can name is its distance from the shipping town and port 
 viz., seven miles ; but this is greatly palliated by the excellent water 
 communication of the upper harbour." 
 
 Since these accounts were written, the harbour has 
 been regularly surveyed and mapped, and the channel 
 up to Hoputai, or Port Chalmers, properly marked with 
 buoys, by Mr. Charles Kettle, the Chief Surveyor of 
 the New Zealand Company. The following are the 
 Sailing Directions for entering the harbour, appended 
 to his map: 
 
 " OTAGO, or OTAKOC HARBOUR. (Tairoa's Head. E. tide of 
 en/rone*.) Lat. 45 W 4s" S. Long. 170 I Variation 
 
 * See p. 160.
 
 304 SAILING DIRECTIONS. 
 
 10 lO* K. H. W. at F. and C. 3h. 15m. Springs rise 7 ft. ; ordi- 
 nary tides, 5 ft. 
 
 " Vessels should uot attempt to enter against an ebb tide, without 
 a strong commanding breeze, as the ebb from the N. meets that 
 coming out of the harbour near Tairoa's Head, and causes a strong 
 set of current from that point towards Point Heyward (W. side of 
 entrance) ; should the wind be light, safe anchorage may be had 
 outside in 7 fathoms' water till the flood tide makes. 
 
 " The deepest water will be obtained by passing Tairoa's Head at 
 the distance of about a cable's length, steering SSW. W. till 
 Point Hewlett is brought abeam, and the soundings deepen to 5 
 fathoms (low water). From here the first Buoys will be easily dis- 
 tinguished: the Red one being on the starboard, the White one on 
 the port, side of the ship-channel inside: and steering straight for 
 them the water deepens from 5 to 10 fathoms. 
 
 " If it be near low water, vessels drawing more than 15 ft. should 
 anchor about midway between Point Haringtou and the Red Buoy, 
 in 7 fathoms, till the tide rises, as the shallowest part of the channel 
 lies between the first Buoys. 
 
 " The channel up to Port Chalmers (Hoputai Bay) is marked by 
 Buoys on each side, placed in three fathoms' water. 
 
 " The Red Buoys are all on the starboard hand, and the White, 
 Red-and-white, and Black Buoys are all on the port hand. By at- 
 tention to these, which are numerous and can be easily seen from 
 the deck, a vessel of any si/e will have no difficulty iu going up, and 
 carrying from 5 to 10 fathoms all the way. After passing the 
 Black Buoy opposite Deborah Bay, steer for about two cables' 
 lengths towards the N. Z. Company's Store in Hoputai Bay, and 
 anchor in o fathoms, soft mud. CHARLES H. KETTLE." 
 
 The Chart has been published by Smith, Elder & 
 Co., Cornhill, for the New Zealand Company. The 
 preliminary expedition of Colonists, who sailed from 
 England in December, 1847, and arrived in March, 1848, 
 will have established regular pilots on their arrival. 
 
 As to the rural districts, Colonel Wakefield says: 
 
 " Beyond the first ridge of down, which forms the southern 
 horizon from the harbour, lies an undulating country, covered witli 
 grass. This is more or less good, according to position and aspect, 
 and has been much deteriorated in places by extensive and repeated 
 burnings, which impoverish the laud. The worst of it, however, 
 affords abundant food for sheep. 
 
 " The anise plant, so valuable as pasture for sheep and cattle, 
 abounds over all the land we traversed. It is this plant that renders 
 the plain of the Waimea, near Nelson, so propitious to the fattening 
 of stock. I have never tasted such well-flavoured meat as that
 
 RURAL DISTRICTS. 305 
 
 fattened ou the natural pastures near Nelson. The plant is also 
 found in abundance near Port Cooper, and in the Wairarapa valley, 
 near Port Nicholson. I have not seen it farther north, or in any 
 district where fern abounds. Its chief property seems to be a 
 worming tonic. As such I believe some preparation of its seed is 
 given in racing stables in England, as a condition ball. It arrives 
 at its full growth during the summer ; but ill many places during 
 our journey, I fonnd it at this season of the year eighteen inches in 
 length, and scarcely a square foot of ground without a root of it. 
 In the uplands we found snow in some places knee-deep, and the 
 ground frozen to the depth of an inch ; but on our return these 
 indications of a severe climate had disappeared before some days as 
 warm ns those of summer. The vicinity of snowy eminences is 
 highly estimated by flock-owners, particularly where the downs are 
 round topped and in long slopes, so that the gradual tricklings from 
 the melting snows go to nourish the roots of the grasses. After 
 traversing these downs for five miles from Otago, we overlooked the 
 plain of the Taieri, which contains about 40,000 acres of land, and 
 is intersected by the river of the same name, navigable for 
 large boats twelve miles from the sea, which it reaches at about 
 twenty-five miles from Otago. About two-thirds of the plain 
 are now available. The remainder is subject to inundations, but 
 may be reclaimed and rendered more valuable than the higher 
 parts." 
 
 " The land at the head of the Waiora Lake consists of undulating 
 downs, round topped, and covered with herbage, grass of various 
 descriptions, and anise of larger growth than any I had previously 
 seen. Quails are plentiful over all these downs, and in the plains 
 adjoining, aud would be more so but for the hawks and kites. 
 Hereafter, it will become the business of the Scotch sportsmen to 
 give rewards for their destruction. 
 
 The view from Owiti is very extensive. At its base, to the S.W., 
 lies the plain of the Tokomairiro, containing about 14,000 acres. 
 To the east, hills, to the breadth of seven miles, extend to the coast ; 
 to the north lies the portage of six miles between it and the Waiora ; 
 and to the west, undulating prairies of boundless extent, available 
 for cattle and sheep three parts of the year. It would be a most 
 advantageous and attractive thing to the settlement, if some Scotch 
 proprietors would send some red deer to be turned out here. In the 
 course of a few years there is no doubt they would increase largely. 
 The sport of hunting them would be highly attractive, and would 
 conduce to the improvement of the breed of horses, and afford a 
 manly amusement to the young Colonists, fitting them for the more 
 serious occupations of stock-keeping and wool-growing. The com- 
 munication with this country from Otago is extremely easy. Water 
 carriage can be made use of down the Taieri to the head of the 
 Waiora Lake. A good road may be made without much expense 
 D D 2
 
 306 CLUTHA RIVER 
 
 from thence lo Rangitoto. A short portage thence to Kaitaugata 
 Lake and to the Clutha River and District." 
 
 This fine river (the Matou or Molyneux of the 
 maps) is a quarter of a mile broad, six fathoms deep, 
 and retains, it is said, that depth and width for fifty 
 miles inland. By all accounts it appears to wind 
 through extended plains of great beauty and extraor- 
 dinary fertility. It forms the southern extremity of 
 the block, whilst Otago harbour forms the northern 
 extremity. 
 
 Mr. Tuckettsays: 
 
 " The Clutha (or Matou) is a river which even an American 
 would not contemn; its course inland is so distant that I cannot 
 pretend to estimate the distance. The hills west of its course are 
 certainly twenty miles from the shore, and no snowy mountains are 
 visible. Mr. informed me subsequently that he had as- 
 cended it in a boat for at least fifty miles, and that it was still navi- 
 gable for a large boat; also, that many navigable creeks unite with 
 it, by one of which a boat may be taken to a lagoon, called Kaitun- 
 gata, and then by a narrow channel to another lagoon, called Rangi- 
 toto, from whence the distance to the Taieri valley does not exceed 
 six miles. 
 
 " Mr. Palmer informed me that he once ascended the Clutha (or 
 Matou) in a boat, fora distance, he imagines, equal to fifty miles, in 
 a, straight course (not estimated by that of the river) ; and he was 
 still, he believes, very far from its head. I was much pleased with 
 the Tautuku.* It is not merely rich and picturesque in scenery, 
 but very productive. I have no doubt but that a road might be easily 
 formed up the valley, and over the summit ridge, to the unwooded 
 plains Tutu-ranf and Toi-toi." pp. 42, 40. 
 
 Dr. Monro: 
 
 "A short distance farther, and the rising ground, which had 
 hitherto been close tipon our right hand, turned off towards the in- 
 terior; and we had before us the long beach at the bottom of Moly- 
 neux Bay, with a large extent of level country behind it. Oil 
 mounting to the top of some low sand-hills, we came in view of the 
 Molyneux river a majestic stream of water about a quarter of a 
 mile broad, deep, with well-defined banks, flowing close to us pa- 
 rallel to the sea, with a steady, gentle current. Looking up it we 
 
 * In the course of a journey along the coast southwards from 
 Otago. 
 
 t Between the plain of the Clutha and Toi-toi.
 
 AND PLAINS. 307 
 
 could trace its course through a. large extent of alluvial laud, by the 
 thick fringe of ti-trees upon its banks, and. by numerous groves of 
 wood, producing a most picturesque effect. At the distance of about 
 ten miles inland, gentle slopes, apparently grassy, rose to a mode- 
 rate elevation; behind which no mountains were visible, save in one 
 direction towards the north-west, where the white summits of a very 
 far distant range showed themselves. The landscape was altogether 
 one of great beauty nnd unusually rich softness." p. 110. 
 
 " The Clutba ( Matou or Molyneux) river, is a magnificent stream, 
 of near a quarter of a mile wide, deep, and with a moderate current. 
 It is difficult of entrance from the surf over the bar at the mouth, 
 and from the circumstance of its having an invariable outward cur- 
 rent. Beyond the bar it has six fathoms of water ; and it is said to 
 preserve its depth and width for sixty miles from its mouth. 
 
 " The plain of the Clutha, which is from 10,000 to 20,000 acres 
 in extent, has a line growth of grass, flax, etc. The land is un- 
 doubtedly good, but liable in portions to be overflown. Probably, 
 the most desirable land will be found on the neighbouring hills, 
 which display a series of most beautiful slopes, chiefly clothed with 
 grass. As on the plain itself, there is a fair sprinkling of wood. 
 In every direction there are extensive tracts of this valuable descrip- 
 tion of country. The two white settlers have grown such crops of 
 corn and potatoes on the fine wooded slopes behind the village, as 
 leave no doubt of their great fertility." p. ">.">. 
 
 "At Iwikatea the Clutha (Molyneux or Matou) is a splendid 
 river, upwards of 200 yards in width, with a deep steady current and 
 definite banks. Each of the branches into which it divides is a 
 liirge river, with a depth of several fathoms of water. But un- 
 fortunately at its mouth the river is contracted by a reef of rocks. 
 What its navigable capabilities are has not yet been ascertained, but 
 it is certain that its mouth is not easily accessible. By small ves- 
 sels or steamers, it might, generally speaking, be entered, but not by 
 sailing vessels of any burden, except in particular states of the 
 weather. In a direction inland, it is said to be navigable for whale- 
 boats for fifty miles, by the windings of the river, which, with deduc- 
 tions for exaggeration, may probably amount to about twenty-fi\e." 
 p. XM. 
 
 Southward of the block, a fertile upland country ex- 
 tends along the coast as far as the Bluff, a fine harbour 
 at the eastern extremity of Foveaux's Strait. Im- 
 mediately west of that harbour, a considerable river, 
 called the New River, flows into the Strait; and about 
 30 miles further to the westward, a larger river, called 
 Jacob's River. Both these are accessible for shipping 
 of considerable size; though there is a bar at the en-
 
 308 COUNTRY SOUTH-WEST AND 
 
 trance of the New River. The interior of the neigh- 
 bouring country is not known to have been explored: 
 but all accounts of that part of it which border on the 
 coast, concur in describing it as of a similar character 
 to that between Otago and the Clutha. 
 
 Further to the west, the country becomes mountain- 
 ous, as spurs of the great range reach to the sea-coast. 
 Chalky Bay and Dusky Bay, at the S.W. extremity of 
 the Island, are very fine harbours, resembling the 
 Pelorus and Queen Charlotte Sounds in depth of water, 
 abundance of fine timber, and romantic scenery; and 
 also in scarcity of level or available land for settlement. 
 Dusky Bay was a favourite rendezvous of Captain Cook. 
 Thence northward to the river Arahura, to which Messrs. 
 Heaphy and Brunner extended their exploring expedi- 
 tion from Nelson, in March 1846,* little or nothing is 
 known of the coast, except that the mountains approach 
 close to the sea. Rumours have, indeed, been gathered 
 from the sealers and whalers, to the effect, that a fine 
 harbour, which they call Milford Haven, exists on that 
 part of the coast; but no definite information on the 
 subject has ever yet been obtained. 
 
 North of the Otago block, the country is said to re- 
 semble that described as within it in general character: 
 but there is no harbour or river large enough to admit 
 shipping, between Otago and Akaroa in Banks's Penin- 
 sula, along a coast-line 200 miles in length. As far 
 north as Moerangi, 40 miles from Otago Heads, the 
 country immediately adjoining the sea-shore is of a hilly 
 character. 
 
 Both within and without the Otago block, small set- 
 tlements of white people have been formed for a greater 
 or less period: the inhabitants being employed in the 
 whale fishery and in sealing; in herding cattle and 
 sheep imported from the Australian Colonies; in the 
 growth of wheat, potatoes, &c.; in building small ves- 
 sels for the coasting-trade; or in trading between the 
 * See p. 238.
 
 NORTH OF OTAGO BLOCK. .309 
 
 few native inhabitants and the whaling-ships which 
 frequently visit the harbours for rest and refreshment, 
 on account of their proximity to the favourite fishing- 
 grounds. 
 
 At Moerangi, there is a whaling-station, which has 
 been supplied from Sydney till within a very recent 
 date. It now depends on Wellington. Two boats and 
 16 men were employed at this station in 1845. There 
 are also about 15 other Europeans, and 50 head of 
 cattle, besides goats, pigs, and poultry; 40 or 50 natives 
 also reside here. 
 
 For 23 miles South of Moerangi, there is a sandy 
 beach, backed by hills; at the end of which is the set- 
 tlement of Waikouaiti, 17 miles North of Otago Heads. 
 Here Mr/ John Jones, a Colonist from Sydney, has an 
 extensive establishment, at which he carries on whaling, 
 farming, and the breeding of horses, sheep, and cattle. 
 In April, 1847, there were at this settlement about 40 
 or 50 Europeans of both sexes; 100 acres of land under 
 cultivation, of which a large proportion in wheat; 500 
 head of cattle; 2000 sheep; 50 or 60 horses, chiefly 
 brood mares; and 2 boats fitted out for the shore-fishery. 
 Wheat has been cultivated successfully here for several 
 years. (See p. 295.) 
 
 There is also here a Chapel and Station of the Wes- 
 leyan Missionary Society, the present resident Minister 
 being the Rev. I. Creed. 
 
 Between Waikouaiti and Otago Heads the coast is 
 steep, so that the path lies over the hills. At a snot 
 called Blueskins, 6 miles from Otago Heads, two or 
 three squatters from Wellington have recently formed 
 an establishment. They have about 50 head of cattle, 
 and 1000 sheep. 
 
 On each side of the entrance of Otago harbour, there 
 are cattle -stations, &c. There are here, altogether, a 
 few Europeans, 50 head of cattle, 300 sheep, and 3 
 horses. 
 
 Near the mouth of the harbour, on the E. side, there 
 is a Settlement of 50 to 100 white people.
 
 310 IRREGULAR SETTLEMENTS. 
 
 On the site of Dunedin, at the S. end of the Upper 
 harbour, a Mr. Anderson had, in April 1847, 300 
 sheep and 50 head of cattle running. 
 
 At Tautuku, S. of the Clutha's mouth, there are 2 
 whaling boats, and a few other white residents, besides 
 their crews. 
 
 At the Bluff, or Bloomfield Harbour, there are also 
 2 boats, and a few white residents; some wild cattle, 
 and 10 or 12 head of tame cattle. 
 
 At the mouth of Jacob's River there are about 50 
 Europeans, and 100 head of cattle. Here a schooner 
 of 190 tons burthen, called the Amazon, was built; 
 which was registered lately at Wellington, and there 
 completely fitted out for the whale-fishery. (See p. 
 192.) She sailed on her first cruise in the year 1847. 
 Here, also, some wheat is grown. Mr. Tuckett 
 says: 
 
 "Whilst at the Aparima or Jacob's river, at the very southernmost 
 
 point of the Middle Island, I called on Mr. , to see the wheat 
 
 which he has grown. It was in very good condition and heavy, 
 grown on cleared bushland, a nice sandy loam, but too sandy to last 
 long without manure." p. 52. 
 
 Little is yet known o Stewart's Island. It contains 
 about 1,000,000 acres of land, chiefly undulating, with 
 a high mountain in its centre, and covered with wood. 
 It possesses two fine harbours Port Somes at its 
 southern extremity; and The Neck, or Paterson's 
 River, on its north -east side, in Foveaux's Strait. Here 
 about 30 or 40 Europeans are settled, who pursue the 
 whale and seal fishery, and possess a few cattle and 
 sheep. 
 
 The nature of the Climate and Soil may be gathered 
 from the numerous extracts which have been made. 
 No careful Meteorological Journals have as yet been 
 kept in the Otago district; but inferences may be drawn 
 as to the general climate from the two following very 
 imperfect Weather -Tables. 
 
 No. I. is a Summary of the Observations made by Mr. E. Har- 
 rison, Assistant-Surveyor to the New Zealand Company, near the
 
 WEATHER TABLES, OTAGO. 
 
 311 
 
 mouth of the Clutha, about '>() miles South of Otago, between the 
 2Sth of June, 1--46, and the :31st of March, 1847. Unfortunately, 
 it thus does not record the weather during three winter months. 
 
 No. II. is a Summary of the Observations recorded in a very rough 
 Diary kept by Mr. Joseph Thomas, during his sojourn in the fol- 
 lowing parts of the Otago District : 
 
 From 18th April, 18l(i, to 4th May, he was at Otago Harbour. 
 
 From 4th May, to llth May, he was at sea, between Otago 
 and the Cluthn. 
 
 From llth May, to 29th June, he was in the plain of the 
 Clutha. 
 
 From '29th June, to 29th July, he was travelling from the Clutha 
 to Otago and back, and staying at Otago 22 days. 
 
 From 29th July, to 4th November, he was in the plain of the 
 Clutha. 
 
 From 4th November, to 14th, he was travelling from Clutha to 
 Waikouaiti and back, partly by land and partly by sea. 
 
 From 14th November, 1840, to 15th February, 1847, he was in 
 the plain of the Clutha. 
 
 Mr. Thomas has made in his Diary no observations whatever re- 
 specting *G days out of the 303. They should probably be shared 
 among the others, in the same proportions. 
 
 I. Weather-Table kept in the plain of the Clutha, from June 28, 
 J846, to March 31, 1847, by Mr. S. Harrison. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 = 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 Months. 
 
 ,| 
 
 ~^ -~ 
 
 0) 
 
 . 
 
 
 . 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 s 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 _z 
 
 i 
 
 c 
 a 
 
 o> 
 
 
 
 4== 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 
 _ 
 
 CQ 
 
 - 
 
 09 
 
 * 
 
 
 
 K 
 
 June, 184C 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 July . 
 
 19 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 i 
 
 
 5 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 1- 
 
 4 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 o.) 
 
 
 A 
 
 
 
 
 
 1" 
 
 
 Januarv, 1847 
 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 .. 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 ?1 
 
 
 5 
 
 9 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 19 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 9 Months and 3} 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 days, (exclusive of > 
 
 180 
 
 15 
 
 
 34 
 
 
 11 
 
 41 
 
 B 
 
 winter months)... ) 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 312 
 
 CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 II. Weather Tulle, kept chiefly in the plain of the Clutha, lut 
 partly at Otayo and in intervening places, from April 18, 
 1840, to February In, 1847, by Mr. J. Thomas. 
 
 
 ce 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Months. 
 
 Q 
 
 rs 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 O 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 d 
 
 o 
 
 
 c 
 
 a 
 
 o 
 
 O 
 
 "3 
 
 o 
 
 
 E 
 
 O 
 
 02 
 
 K 
 
 0! 
 
 fc 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 fe 
 
 April, 1840 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 <l 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 May 
 
 8 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 June 
 
 20 
 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 
 5 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 July 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 f) 
 
 1 
 
 August 
 
 14 
 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 
 9 
 
 11 
 
 4 
 
 
 September .... 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 October 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 November .... 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 December .... 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 
 Januarv, 1847 . . 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 
 2 
 
 * 
 
 12 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 February 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Ten months, in- } 
 eluding Winter] 
 
 142 
 
 8 
 
 D 
 
 59 
 
 3 
 
 80 
 
 30 
 
 23 
 
 3 
 
 The frosts are, with very few exceptions, night frosls only. 
 Thunder or lightning was only observed on two occasions. 
 
 The indigenous Vegetable Productions do not differ 
 from those of the districts bordering on Cook's Strait, 
 already described, 
 
 Wild hogs are said to abound in all parts of the dis- 
 trict: Quails are in abundance all over the grassy 
 plains; and Wildfowl in the rivers and lagoons. The 
 Weka, or Wood-hen, (see page 163,) is also common 
 in most parts of this country. 
 
 In the MINERAL kingdom, the existence of Coal in 
 great profusion is most remarkable. Its appearance on 
 the coast, at Coal Point, about ten miles North of the 
 mouth of the Clutha, is thus described: 
 
 " The tide having ebbed, we descended to the base of the cliffs, 
 and walked along a natural pavement formed by the horizontal 
 strata. We were not long iii perceiving indications of coal in black 
 streaks in the sandstone, and thin beds of richly bituminous shale ; 
 and we picked up several rounded pieces of pnre coal cast up by the 
 waves. But, on turning a projecting point, we found ourselves in
 
 THICK BEDS OF COAL. 313 
 
 face of a Mack wall or cliff, which, upon examination, turned out to 
 be pure coal. In thickness, what \ve saw of it could not be less 
 than eighteen feet, while, as the pavement on which we stood was 
 coal as well, extending out to meet the waves, it was impossible to 
 say how much deeper it went. Mr. Tuckett was of opinion that in 
 <|iiuHty it was very superior to the ordinary New Zealand coal ; hut 
 in this opinion I could not agree with him, as it appeared to me to 
 have the same conchoidal fracture and reshious lustre as the Mas- 
 sacre Bay coal, as well as that which 1 have seen from other districts 
 in this country. What was rather remarkable, was its nearness to 
 the surface. Above it lay a bed of about twenty feet of a conglome- 
 rate of small quartz pebbles, on the top of which the soil commenced. 
 We were not able to estimate the horizontal extent of the bed. Wh;:t 
 we saw ranged only for a few hundred yards, disappearing in some 
 small gnlleys, which at that point intersect the cliffs." Mount, p. 1 III. 
 
 " As we proceeded about the time of low water along shore, I was 
 gratified to observe very abundant large pieces of drift coal of good 
 quality, still no bed was visible in the face of the cliff. Farther on, 
 the beach became again rocky, and quantities of coal were lodged 
 between the rocks, and soon appeared in view a blm-k cliff. Ap- 
 proaching this cliff, I found it to be a mass of coal for about one 
 hundred yards in length, in thickness from twelve to twenty feet, as 
 seen in the face of the cliff above the sand, and to what depth it 
 exists beneath the sand I could not ascertain. 
 
 " The beach is not accessible on account of the heavy swell and 
 great surf. The coal must, therefore, be worked inland, and the bed 
 will be. no donbt, discovered near the bank of the Clutha [or Matou 
 Itiver, which, in a direct line inland, is probably not more than four 
 or five miles distant." Tuckett, pp. 41, 42. 
 
 Since this was written, another part of the same bed has 
 been discovered, as predicted, four miles inland, nearly 
 due West of Coal Point, and within a quarter of a mile 
 from the left bank of the Clutha, eight miles above its 
 mouth. Indications of coal, less decided than the above, 
 have been remarked at various spots in the district; 
 from which it may be inferred that a great portion of it 
 is pervaded by a vast carboniferous formation.* 
 
 The natives procure from a lake, which they describe 
 as lying inland from Otago, considerable quantities of 
 a green jade, or serpentine, much prized by them for 
 
 * Specimens may be seen at New Zealand House, and at the 
 Offices of the Association in Scotland. A sample has been snb- 
 iiiitted U> a mining engineer, near Glasgow, who pronounces it to 
 be splint coal, of first-nite quality. 
 E E
 
 314 
 
 FREE-CHURCH ASSOCIATION. 
 
 the purpose of making war-clubs and ornament? for 
 hanging in their ears and round their necks. These 
 are valued as heir-looms, and have for many years 
 formed an article of barter or warfare, as the case might 
 be, between the tribes residing in this part of the 
 Islands and those of the North. It is called by them 
 "Ponamu," whence the name once assigned to the 
 Middle Island" Te WaU Ponamu," or, " The Place 
 of Green Stone." The natives say that they obtain it 
 in a soft state from under the water, and that it hardens 
 by exposure to the air. It is said that small quantities 
 of this article have been taken by traders to China, and 
 disposed of there to great advantage. 
 
 The proposed Colony is now in the course of founda- 
 tion, under the auspices and with the co-operation of 
 the New Zealand Company, by an " Association of Lay 
 Members of the Free Church of Scotland for Promoting 
 the Settlement of Otago." They are as follow: 
 
 The Rt. Hon. Fox Maule, M.P. 
 Sir J. Forrest, Bart., of Comistou. 
 Sir William C. Seton, Bart., of 
 
 Pitmedden. 
 
 Sir.!. C. Fairlie, Bart., of Fairlie. 
 A. E. Monteith, Esq., Sheriff of 
 
 Fife. 
 
 J. M. Hogg, Esq., of Newliston. 
 J. Hamilton, Esq., of Ninewar. 
 G. M'Micken Torrance, Esq., of 
 
 Threave. 
 Pat. B. Mure Macredie, Esq., of 
 
 Perceton. 
 
 Adam Rolland, Esq., of Gask. 
 W. II. Craufurd, Esq., of Crau- 
 
 furdland. 
 
 G. Smyttan, Esq., M.D., Edin- 
 burgh. 
 
 A. Ross, Esq., Edinburgh. 
 J. B. M'Combie, Esq., of Gilly- 
 
 brauds. 
 
 James Wyld, Esq., of Gilston. 
 J. M. Nairne, Esq., of Dunsi- 
 
 nane. 
 
 H. Dunlop, Esq., of Craigton 
 (Chairman of Glasgow Com- 
 mittee.) 
 
 J. Bain, Esq., of Morriston. 
 
 William Campbell, Esq., of Tille- 
 chewan. 
 
 William Brown, Esq., Merchant, 
 Glasgow. 
 
 William Whitehead, Esq., South 
 Bridge, Edinburgh. 
 
 William Johnston, St. Andrew 
 Square, Edinburgh. 
 
 J. Blackie, Sen., Esq., Glasgow. 
 
 W. Buchanan, Esq., Glasgow. 
 
 J. Blackie, Jun., Esq., Glasgow. 
 
 Allan Buchanan, Esq., Glasgow. 
 
 Alex. Rankin, Esq., Glasgow. 
 
 George Taylor, Esq., Ayr. 
 
 D. Campbell, Esq., Mounthamil- 
 ton, Ayrshire. 
 
 J. M'llraith, Esq., of Auchen- 
 flower. 
 
 William Brown, Esq., Banker, 
 Mavbole.
 
 TERMS OF PURCHASE OF LAND. 315 
 
 A. Burns, Esq., Banker, Perth. 
 D. Craigie, Esq., Banker, Perth. 
 Thos. Anderson, Esq., Banker, 
 
 Hamilton. 
 Piobt. Peter, Esq., Banker, Aber- 
 
 feldy. 
 
 \V. Ma'cfie, Esq., of Laughouse. 
 CLas. Scott, Esq., of Hawkhill. 
 K. Roxburgh, Esq. Greenock. 
 John Ker, Esq., Greenock. 
 A. Muuro, Esq., Greeuock. 
 
 George Blair, Esq., Greenock. 
 Neil Jainieson, Esq., Provost of 
 
 Rothsay. 
 
 A. M-Indoe, Esq., Rothsay. 
 Charles M'Inlay, Esq., Rothsay. 
 Dugald Muun, Esq., Rothsay. 
 Robert Cargill, Esq., W.S. 
 Edward M'Glashin, Esq., South 
 
 Bridge, Edinburgh. 
 Robert Blair, Esq., South Bridge, 
 
 Edinburgh. 
 
 Offices of the Association. In Edinburgh 27, South Hanover- 
 street, J. M'Glashan, Secretary. lu Glasgow 3, West Nile-street, 
 Dr. Aldcoru, Secretary. 
 
 The Association and the Company have agreed upon 
 the following 
 
 TERMS OF PUBCHASE OF LAND is THE SETTLEMENT OF OTAGO. 
 
 1. Certain Modifications having been introduced into the Original 
 Terms of Purchase, at the instance of the Otago Association, and 
 in virtue of the power to that effect reserved in the Third Original 
 Clause, and Ballots having been held, Colonists having sailed iu 
 accordance therewith, and the Site of the Settlement having been 
 fixed, as undermentioned, the following Regulations to be substi- 
 tuted for those dated respectively the 14th of May, and the 24th of 
 November, l^i.',. 
 
 1. Tlie Association of Lay Members of the Free Church of Scot- 
 land, as reported by the General Assembly of May, 1845, with the 
 addition of such other Members as have been, or hereafter may be, 
 from time to time appointed by the Association, to be recognised as 
 the party to promote the Settlement now in progress. 
 
 :). The Lands to be sold under the following arrangements to 
 persons brought forward or approved by the Association ; and the 
 Association (including those persons) to carry out the enterprise on 
 their own principles, and, so far as possible, in their own name, 
 looking only to the Company for such assistance and acts of trustee- 
 ship in the matter of Surveys, Emigration, and general process of 
 founding and maintaining the Settlement, as may be requisite. 
 
 Amendments which experience may from time to time show to be 
 desirable, to be made by the Company and the Association, concur- 
 rently, in those parts of the following arrangements in which they 
 are not already provided for. 
 
 4. The Site of the Settlement to be at OTAGO IN THE MIDDLE 
 ISLAND OF NF.W ZEALAND, on the land granted to the Company by 
 a Deed under the seal of the Territory, bearing date the l-'3th day of 
 April, 1840, and already decided on, surveyed, and laid out.
 
 316 TERMS OF PURCHASE 
 
 5. The Settlement to comprise one hundred and forty-lour thou- 
 sand six hundred acres of laud, divided into two thousand four 
 hundred Properties; and each Property to consist of sixty acres and 
 a quarter, divided into three Allotments ; namely, a Town Allot- 
 ment of a quarter of an acre, a Suburban Allotment of ten acres, 
 and a Rural Allotment of fifty acres, be the measurements more or 
 less. 
 
 6. The 2,400 Properties, or 1 44,000 acres, to be appropriated as 
 fallows, namely : 
 
 2,000 Properties, or 120,500 acres, for Sale to private 
 individuals. 
 
 100 Properties, or 0,025 acres, for the Estate to he pur- 
 chased by the Local Municipal Government ; 
 
 100 Properties, or 0,025 acres, for the Estate to be pur- 
 chased by the Trustees for Religious and Educational 
 Uses : and 
 
 200 Properties, or 12,050 acres, for the Estate to be 
 purchased by the New Zealand Company. 
 
 7. The Price of the land to be fixed in the first instance at forty 
 shillings an acre, or 1201. 10s. a Property ; to be charged on the 
 Estates of the Municipal Government, of the Trustees for Religious 
 and Educational Uses, and of the New Zealand Company, in the 
 same manner as on the 2,000 Properties intended for sale to private 
 individuals ; and the purchase money, 289,200/., to be appropriated 
 as follows, namely : 
 
 Emigration and Supply of Labour (three-eighths.') . .108,450 
 
 Civil Uses, to be administered by the Company, viz. : 
 Surveys, and other expenses of founding the Set- 
 tlement, Roads, Bridges, and other improvements, 
 including Steam, if hereafter deemed expedient, 
 and if the requisite funds be found available (two- 
 eighlhs) 7<!,:iOO 
 
 Religious and Educational Uses, to be administered 
 
 by Trustees (one-eighth) 30,150 
 
 The New Zealand Company, on account of its capital 
 
 and risk (two-eighths) 72,300 
 
 It is to be observed that from the sum of 30,150/. to be assigned 
 to the Trustees for Religious -and Educational Uses, will be defrayed 
 ]2,050/., the price of the 0,025 acres to be purchased as the Estate 
 of that Trust. 
 
 In like manner, out of the sum of 72,300/. to be assigned to the 
 New Zealand Company, will be defrayed 24,100/., the price of the 
 12,050 acres to be purchased by the Company as its Estate. 
 
 But the 0,025 acres, constituting the Estate to be purchased by 
 the Local Municipal Government, must be separately paid for by 
 that Government ; and until payment therefore of the price, 12,050/.,
 
 OF LAND AT OTAGO. 317 
 
 togelber with Colonial interest thereon, the land will beheld by 
 the Administrators of the Fund for Civil Uses, with power to dis- 
 i the same, it' such payment he not made within one year 
 after the completion of the sales of the remainder of the two thou- 
 sand four hundred Properties. 
 
 H. The Company to reserve to itself the power of increasing the 
 price above mentioned, from time to time, as may be arranged after 
 consultation with the Association. 
 
 !'. In consideration of the consent given by the Directors to con- 
 tribute to the Immigration and other Special Funds, in the same 
 proportion! as private purchasers, on account of the two hundred 
 Properties to he selected as the Company's Kstate, in lieu of those 
 Properties being tree of charge or deduction, as was originally in- 
 tended ; and in consideration of the expenses to which the Com- 
 pany is subjected in its general superintendence of the interests of 
 the several Settlements, and which ought to he borne in due propor- 
 tions by the several Settlements respectively; the Company to be 
 entitled to. charge Commission, at the rate of five per cent., oil the 
 gi-nss amount of the Funds appropriated to Emigration and to 
 Civil Uses; and such charge to be debited to those Funds respec- 
 tively. 
 
 10. The purchase of the surface, under the present arrangements, 
 to include in every case Coal and all other Minerals whatever, 
 granted to the Company by the Crown, and lying underneath the 
 Allotment purchased ; hut the Company to have power to exclude 
 lauds containing, in considerable quantities, Cool or other Minerals, 
 from the Allotments intended for sale or appropriation, and to re- 
 serve them for the purpose of being disposed of in the manner 
 undermentioned. 
 
 Lauds so reserved and containing Coal, to be disposed of, by 
 Lease or otherwise, in such way as may from time to time be agreed 
 on between the Company and the Association, with a view to prevent 
 the Coal-field from falling into the hands of private individuals, so 
 us to form a monopoly injurious to the public interests, and to 
 ensure to the Community a due supply of Fuel at the cheapest pos- 
 sible rate. 
 
 Lands reserved as above, and containing other Minerals, to be 
 disposed of in such way as the Company, after consultation with '.he 
 Association, may from time to time consider most expedient. 
 
 11. Reservations to be made, so far as may be practicable, of 
 the Sites of Villages and Towns, with Suburban Allotments adjacent, 
 in the several Parishes and Hundreds, which arc to be laid out in 
 accordance with the Government Regulations on this head. 
 
 12. In laying out the Chief Town of the Settlement, to be 
 named " DUNEDIN," due provision to be made for public Purposes, 
 as Fortifications, Public Buildings, Sites for places of Public Wor- 
 ship and Instruction, Baths, Wharfs, Quays, Cemeteries, Squares, n 
 
 E E 2
 
 318 TERMS OF PURCHASE 
 
 Park aud other places for LeaJth and recreation ; for all which, in- 
 structions have already been gfeft to the Company's Principal Agent. 
 
 l:j. Successive Parties of Colonists to be despatched from time to 
 time, as the Directors and Association may deem expedient, what- 
 ever the number of Properties sold ; due regard being had always 
 to the wishes and convenience of Purchasers, and to the Proportion 
 between Capital and Labour. 
 
 14. Five years from the 23rd of November, 1847, the date of the 
 embarkation of the First Party, to be allowed to the Association for 
 effecting the sale of the 2,000 Properties ; but on their failing to 
 complete such sale within the time stated, the Company to have the 
 option of disposing of the whole of the remaining lands to other 
 parties. 
 
 In the event, however, of the whole 2,000 Properties being sold 
 to private individuals within the said period, the Association to have 
 further the refusal, on such terms as shall then be agreed upon, of 
 the entire remainder of the Block of 400,000 acres, or such portion 
 of the same as the Company shall not have returned to the Crown 
 under the terms of Mr. Hope's letter of 7th August, 1845. 
 
 13. A deposit of 12/. 10s. on each Property (accompanied by an 
 authority from the Association for receiving such Deposit) to be 
 paid to the Commercial Bank of Scotland, in Scotland, or to Messrs. 
 Smith, Payne, and Smiths, Bankers, in London, on the New Zealand 
 Company's Account; and the Bankers' Receipt to be produced and 
 filed, previous to any application being registered at the Company's 
 House. Public notice to be given from time to time, of the day on 
 which the residue of the purchase-money is required. In case of 
 default in payment of such residue by the day appointed, the deposit 
 to become thereupon forfeited to the Company, together with all 
 claim of the applicant to the land (applied for. 
 
 10. In exchange for each sum of 120/. 10s. paid as directed, each 
 Purchaser to receive (after the Ballot hereinafter mentioned,) three 
 separate Land-Orders, namely, for the Town quarter-acre, the ten 
 acres of Suburban Land, and the fifty acres of Rural Land, 
 respectively. These lands to be severally selected according to 
 priority of choice, to be determined by Ballot. 
 
 17. Three several Ballots for priority of choice of the Town 
 Allotments, the Suburban Allotments, and the Rural Allotments, in 
 manner to be arranged by the Court of Directors, to take place at 
 the Company's House in London, in the presence of the Directors, 
 and of such Purchasers, or their Agents, as may attend, after public 
 notice given. 
 
 The priority of choice, with regard to the Estates of the Local 
 Municipal Government, the Trustees for Religious and Educational 
 Uses, and the New Zealand Company, to be determined by Ballot in 
 the same manner and at the same time, as for the Properties sold to 
 private individuals.
 
 OF LAND AT OTAGO. 319 
 
 18. Every practuMblo facility to be ghcn in each Ballot, so tluit 
 any party purchasing two or mo^lteropei ties may, with respect to 
 Rural Allotments only, select them in contiguity; provided that 
 notice in writing of his wish to that effect be given to the Company 
 three clear days previous to the drawing; and that such right of 
 selection shall not extend to laud on both sides of any river or main 
 roiul. 
 
 19. The choice of Allotments, according to the right of priority 
 determined as above mentioned, to take place in the Settlement as 
 soon after the arrival of each successive body of Colonists as shall 
 be appointed, and under such regulations as shall be prescribed by 
 tin 1 t 'mnpany's Agent, or other Officer duly authorised in that behalf. 
 Neglect or refusal to comply with such regulations in regard to any 
 Allotment, to occasion a forfeiture of the purchaser's right of 
 choice, aud to vest it in the Company's Officer on behalf of such 
 purchaser. 
 
 '.'i'. Purchasers to be allowed to select out of the whole of the 
 Town and Suburban Allotments, but out of only half the intended 
 number of Hural Allotments, till further Notice. 
 
 The Municipality and the Trustees for Keligious and Educational 
 Uses to be entitled to select their respective Estates in the pro- 
 portion of One Property for every Eight sold to Private Individuals ; 
 but to be required to pay for them in the proportion only of One 
 Property for every Twenty so sold. 
 
 The New Zealand Company to be entitled to select in the pro- 
 portion of One Property for every Four, but to be required to pay in 
 the proportion of One Property for every Tot sold to Private 
 Individuals. 
 
 41. The first Ballot having been held, fifty Properties to be 
 placed at the disposal of the Company's Agent, for sale in the 
 Colony, at the following increased prices, each kind of Allotment 
 being sold separately, if so desired by the purchaser; namely, Town 
 Land, 40/. per Allotment of a Quarter-Acre; Suburban Land, 4()/. 
 per Allotment of ten Acres ; and llural Land, 1001. per Allotment of 
 fifty acres. 
 
 2'-!. Individuals desirous of proceeding to the Colony, iu the 
 intervals between the first and second Ballots, and approved by the 
 Association, to be allowed to become purchasers out of the Fifty 
 Properties mentioned in the preceding Paragraph, and at the prices 
 therein specified. 
 
 v!o. The whole Proceeds of the increased prices mentioned above, 
 and also of Coals and other Minerals disposed of specially under the 
 Provisions of Paragraph 10, and of the Sites of Villages aud Towns 
 with Suburban Allotments adjacent as provided for iu Paragraph 
 11, to be in all cases appropriated (by rii/Iillm") in the same pio- 
 portious and manner as the Proceeds of the first Ballot. 
 
 ^ii. The Association (including the Purchasers aud Colonists
 
 320 TERMS OF PURCHASE. 
 
 whom they have brought forward) having prepared a Deed of Tiii-t 
 and relative Institutes, dated tilh November, 1*47, as a Constitution 
 for Church and Schools, the same to be held as part of the Terms 
 of Purchase ; to the Trustees appointed thereunder, the Funds for 
 Religious and Educational Uses to be handed over, as collected, on 
 the completion of each party ; the provisions of such Deed of Trust 
 and relative Institutes to be duly observed in all respects ; and in 
 this and all other matters, the Association to have respect to the 
 full exoneration of the Company from responsibility, at the earliest 
 possible period. 
 
 25. The Emigration Fund to be applied as may be decided on 
 from time to time, after consultation with the Association, and the 
 selection of free passengers to be entirely confided to them. 
 
 Two-thirds of the amount to he applied in accordance with the 
 Government Regulations; and the remainder, subject to the con- 
 currence of the Company, to the passages of persons who, under 
 those Regulations, are not strictly eligible ; such as the Parents of 
 grown-up Children ; Children under seven years of age, in excess of 
 the authorized number; and, to a limited extent, such Cabin 
 Passengers, and others, as may sail for the Settlement within Twelve 
 Months from the date of the Ballots in which they respectively take 
 part. 
 
 26. The expenditure of the Association to be met in the first 
 instance by the Company, to such moderate extent as maybe neces- 
 sary ; it being understood that, with the exception of a paid Secre- 
 tary and Travelling Expenses, together with a small sum for the 
 Expenses of the Committee in London, the Members of the Associa- 
 tion are to act gratuitously. The whole of such expenditure, 
 together with that already incurred under the former arrangements, 
 to be charged to the Fund for founding and maintaining the Settle- 
 ment. 
 
 27. Subject to the modifications mentioned in the foregoing 
 Paragraphs, and to the exception of Officers and Funds relating to 
 Religious and Educational Uses, the appointment of Officers, and 
 the management and expenditure of the several Funds, to be vested 
 altogether in the Company ; but all reasonable attention to be 
 paid by the Court of Directors to the recommendations of the Asso- 
 ciation. 
 
 . 28. In case of any difference arising between the Company and 
 any purchaser, with respect to the construction of these presents, or 
 the execution of any contract founded theroon, such difference to be 
 decided by two Arbitrators, one to be named by each party, or by an 
 Umpire to be named by the Arbitrators. 
 
 In the event, also, of any difference or question arising, either 
 between private parties, or between such parties and the Company 
 or other Public Body, or between such Public Bodies only, and 
 relating to Water connected with any Land referred to in these
 
 *LL - 'MJ'LLTKD. BALLOT. 3'21 
 
 presents, or to the possession or use of such Water, or to the 
 Erection of Mills or Machinery to ba pored thereby, or to any other 
 right or privilege connected therewith, such difference or question 
 to be decided in like manner, either by Arbitrators, or by an Umpire, 
 the whole to be named respectively as above mentioned. 
 
 e Register of Applications to be now declared open. 
 The Head Office of the Otago Association to be in Edinburgh, 
 with other offices in Glasgow and London, if considered necessary. 
 By Order of the Court of Directors, 
 
 THOU AS CVDBBRT HABIXGTOX, Secretary. 
 
 The necessary surveys were completed by the New 
 Zealand Company's officers, in April, 1847: and on the 
 Maps of the towns of Dunedin and Port Chalmers, as 
 well as of the Suburban Districts in the immediate 
 neighbourhood, and of the Rural Districts extending to 
 the mouth of the Clutha, the whole number of sections 
 required by the above Regulations is laid down, a 
 actually marked by stakes on the ground. These Maps 
 may be inspected at the New Zealand House in London, 
 and at the Offices of the Association in Edinburgh and 
 Glasgow. A lithographed map of the whole Otago dis- 
 trict, with the sections marked on it, is published by Smith 
 and Elder (Cornhill) for the New Zealand Company. 
 
 The First Ballot, mentioned in Article 1, took place 
 at the New Zealand House on the 10th of November, 
 when, including the properties purchased by the 
 Company, and those for the future Municipality, as 
 required by Article 20, 104 properties were purchased 
 and ballotted for. 
 
 The First Party of Colonists consisted of the Pas- 
 sengers in two Ships which sailed for Otago in 
 December, 1847. The John Wickliffe, 662 tons, 
 sailed from Portsmouth on the 14th of December, 
 with 97 passengers, of whom about 10 were bound 
 for Wellington or other Settlements. In this ship 
 went Captain William Cargill, the leader of the colony, 
 with his family. II>_ is a descendant of Donald Car- 
 gill, well known to the readers of the " Scottish
 
 322 DEPARTURE OF THE FIRST 
 
 "Worthies." He has been appointed the New Zea- 
 land Company's Agent for Otago, and a Magistrate 
 of the Territory of New Zealand. Among the pas- 
 sengers was also the Reverend John Nicholson, a 
 Minister of the Free Church of Scotland, with his 
 family, whose ultimate destination is Nelson. He 
 intends, however, to sojourn for a short time with the 
 infant settlement. This vessel arrived at Otago, all 
 well, in March 1848, after a fast passage of 93 days. 
 
 The Philip Laing, of 547 tons, also sailed for Otago, 
 from Greenock, in the end of November, and from 
 Milford Haven early in December, 1 847. She carried 
 246 passengers, all for Otago. 
 
 In the Greenock Advertiser, of 23rd November, 
 1847, a detailed description was given of their depar- 
 ture. The following extract is interesting. After 
 describing the excellent arrangements made for the 
 physical comforts, the writer says, that 
 
 " Care has also been taken of the moral and religions interests of 
 the emigrants. The very valuable services of the Rev. Thomas 
 Burns, formerly of Monkton, late of Portobello, have been secured, 
 and we have no doubt he will be found not only an able and wise 
 instructor, but a judicious adviser, and a friend, the energy of whose 
 character and example will render his counsels doubly valuable. 
 The reverend gentleman is a nephew of our national Bard, and son 
 of Gilbert Burns. The fact of the relationship can scarce fail to 
 form a constant and pleasing tie between the new settlement and 
 the land to which one section of its population cannot fail to look 
 back with feelings of affectionate interest. The only other official 
 to whom we may allude is the schoolmaster, and we were glad to 
 hear that the emigrants are to have the useful and important assist- 
 ance in the work of training the young, and instructing the less 
 informed, of a gentleman in every way qualified for his work. Mr. 
 Blackie takes with him high certificates of his ability and success. 
 
 " With all these inducements, provisions, and care, it could scarce 
 be doubted that the passengers themselves would be people of a 
 class very superior to what are generally found in emigrant vessels. 
 And this is the case. About two hundred and fifty proceed in the 
 Philip Laing, and they generally, we may say entirely, present a 
 cleanly, comfortable, and well- provided appearnnce so much so, in- 
 deed, as almost to make one regret that our own country should lose 
 the benefits of the industry and energies of so many of her children ;
 
 COLONISTS FOR OTAGO. 323 
 
 bnt we mnst console ourselves with the hope, that they are about to 
 lay the foundation on the other side of the globe of a great empire, 
 destined, in the hands of Providence, to assist the mother- country 
 and her other offshoots in spreading over the whole world the bless- 
 ings of civilization and Christianity. 
 
 " The ship being now nearly ready for sea, a large party assembled 
 on board on Saturday at mid-day, for the purpose of offering up 
 prayers to God for the success of the voyage, their safe arrival at 
 their destination, and for their comfort, prosperity, and happiness, 
 in the laud of their adoption, as well as to give them a few advices 
 for their guidance on the voyage and in the settlement. The ser- 
 vices were begun by the Rev. Mr. Smith, who read a portion of the 
 7'^nd Psalm, verses t*, !), 1C, 17 a passage very appropriate in the 
 circumstances which being sung, he offered np a touching and im- 
 pressive prayer. The Rev. Dr. M'Farlan addressed the passengers 
 at some length on the duties that wonld devolve on them, careful 
 attention to which would promote their own happiness as well as 
 that of those around them, and would secure, so far as hnman means 
 could, the Success of the colony. Mr. M'Glashan, the Secretary in 
 Edinburgh of the Lay Association of the Free Church of Scotland 
 for Promoting the Otago Settlement, then narrated at considerable 
 length the various arrangements that had been made to secure the 
 comfort and success of the Colonists, and these seem to have been 
 made with considerate and intelligent forethought and liberality. He 
 alluded especially to the care that had been exercised in the appoint- 
 ment of the various officers connected with the undertaking, and to 
 the liberal spirit which had been displayed by many who wished 
 well to the Colony. He mentioned particularly the handsome pre- 
 sent to the library of the settlement of a copy of the Encyclopaedia 
 Britannica by Lord Provost Black of Edinburgh. 
 
 li We most cordially join in the wishes expressed for the welfare 
 of the settlers, and for the success of the novel and interesting ex- 
 periment now being made. If we may judge by the appearance of 
 the emigrants, we should say that it cannot fail from want of energy 
 on the part of those who are the pioneers of the great work, as a 
 more hopeful body of passengers we have never seen on board any 
 They go out also well provided with the most perfect im- 
 plements which this country affords for carrying on agricultural and 
 handicraft operations, and altogether ready and prepared to do their 
 ]vm in the arduous work they have undertaken." 
 
 The " First Church Congregational Library" taken 
 out by this expedition consists of upwards of 500 vo- 
 lumes, on religious and miscellaneous subjects. A 
 Catalogue of it lias been printed at Greenock, by Joseph 
 Blair, of Broad-close.
 
 324 PROVISION FOR EDUCATION. 
 
 The Otago Journal contains the following account 
 of the intentions of the Association with regard to 
 
 "EDUCATION IN OTAGO. 
 
 " One of the most painful feelings that a respectable Emigrant 
 endures, on leaving his native country, arises from the reflection 
 that his children will be deprived of the means of a good education. 
 It is certain that in all Colonies, planted in recent times, the popu- 
 lation has, for many years, exhibited a continual retrogression in the 
 path of civilization." 
 
 "In the settlement of Otago vigorous measures have been taken 
 to ensure the formation of a well-constituted, religions, and en- 
 lightened community. A Minister and Schoolmaster have been 
 already appointed ; and, in order the more effectually to carry out 
 the great principles upon which the Colony is being established, and 
 to afford a complete course of instruction to the children of the 
 higher class of Emigrants, it is proposed, in addition, to institute a 
 Seminary for Boarders and Day Pupils, in which ample provision 
 will he made for teaching every branch of a liberal education. The 
 institution will be under the auspices of the municipal and ecclesias- 
 tical authorities of Otago, and will be conducted by a head master 
 of high attainments and respectability. The course of instruction 
 will not only comprehend all that is given in the best institutions of 
 the kind in this country, but will embrace many of the higher 
 branches of Literature and Philosophy which are usually taught at 
 the Universities. A thorough English Education will be made the 
 basis of a sound knowledge of the Classics, Mathematics, and Men- 
 tal aud Physical Science ; while the Modern Languages, Drawing, 
 and other accomplishments, will not be neglected." 
 
 " Great efforts will be made to render the instruction solid and 
 substantial, such as befits a Colony which aspires to become the 
 centre of civilization in the Southern Hemisphere." 
 
 The whole Institution will be conducted on Christian principles, 
 and the doctrines and duties of religion will be carefully inculcated." 
 
 " In the house every care will be taken to provide for the health 
 and comfort of the pupils, who will be taught to regard themselves 
 as members of a well-regulated Christian family. The domestic 
 arrangements will be managed by a lady of respectability and piety. 
 Out of doors the pupils will be continually under the superintendence 
 of a master. In pursuance of this scheme, it is proposed that the 
 Head-Master, with two Assistants, should embark for Otago at an 
 early date, and that more Assistants should follow as the pupils in- 
 crease in number." 
 
 " It is believed that the establishment of the projected Academy 
 will afford the greatest satisfaction to the settlers in Otago, and also 
 to many of high respectability in India, Australia, and Van Diemen's 
 Land; since |t will assure them that, though far from their native
 
 LAND SOLD AT OTAGO. 
 
 3-25 
 
 land, they can still obtain for tiieir children the blessing of a sound 
 and liberal education." 
 
 A detailed prospectus will shortly be issued." 
 
 "(Signed) AND. ALDCORS, 
 J. 
 
 Edinburgh, December, ]- i7. 
 
 " Secretaries of lite Lag Attoriolio* 
 Jor promoting tke Settlement." 
 
 The following is an account of the land at Otago sold 
 up to the end of July, 1848 : 
 
 No. of Properties. 
 
 Sold to 
 private 
 indivi- 
 bate 
 
 Church 
 
 I.-.:-: 
 
 Local 
 
 Muni- 
 cipality. 
 
 K.Z. 
 Compr. 
 
 Total. 
 
 At first Ballot, 10th No- \ 
 
 69 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 17 
 
 104 
 
 At subsequent Ballots, } 
 np to 23d June, 1848 $ 
 
 49 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 11 
 
 70 
 
 Total 
 
 118 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 -- 
 
 174 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Since the departure of the John WicklifFe and Philip 
 Laing, several more ships have sailed, containing 
 Colonists for Otago. Some few, too, had gone thither 
 by Sydney, or from the other settlements, previous to 
 the sailing of those ship?, or have done so since. The 
 following may be taken as a fair account of the popu- 
 lation now at Otago, or on its way thither: 
 
 , , (1 
 ' 
 
 Already in the settlement previously to No- 1 , 
 Tember, 1*47 ............. .' ...... / 
 
 In John WtcUiffe, from London (Dee. 1847) 97, of whom 10 for 
 
 other settlements. 
 
 Philip Laiay Greenock (do.) 246 
 Victory London (Mar. li*48) 3'2 7 
 
 .., KluHdfll Do. (May, do.) 150 
 
 Bermicia Do. (Jnly, do.) 1M 70 
 
 Total, up to end of July. 181 . nf whom 112 for 
 
 other settlements, leaving 711 at or for Otago. 
 
 F F
 
 326 COUNTRY BETWEEN CAPE 
 
 Another large ship, the Ajax, 767 tons, sailed for 
 Otago in September, and carried a considerable number 
 of passengers to that settlement. (See Appendix C.) 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Country between Cape Campbell and Otago. Grassy Plains. 
 Kaikora. Banks' s Peninsula. Isthmus, and Plains adjoining. 
 Ports Cooper and Ashley. Oommtmifafion with Plains. 
 Rivers flowing into Pegasus Say. Pigeon Bay. Akarou Har- 
 bour. Settlement of Nanto-Bordelaise Company. Claims to 
 Land. The Bishop of New Zealand's remarks on these har- 
 bours. Coast and Rivers between Akaroa and Otago. Sites 
 for Settlements compared. 
 
 THERE still remains undescribed a considerable tract of 
 country, between Cape Campbell and the neighbour- 
 hood of Otago, on the east coast of the Middle Island, 
 of which comparatively little is yet known. It seems, 
 however, to consist in general of grassy plains, lying 
 between the sea-coast and the foot of the snowy moun- 
 tains, which lie about ten or twelve miles inland, from 
 Kaikora as far south as the latitude of Banks's Penin- 
 sula. These plains are described by persons who have 
 visited them in a few spots, without penetrating far 
 into the interior, as clothed with abundance of good 
 pasture, and well watered with numerous small rivers, 
 but as singularly deficient in timber. 
 
 At the Lookers-on, or Kaikora, in about latitude 
 42 30' S., there is a point of low land which affords 
 shelter on either side of it to small vessels during cer- 
 tain states of the weather; and here one of the whale- 
 fisheries, already described as dependent on Wellington, 
 has been established, (see page 193.) But there is no 
 harbour, or river known to be capable of admitting 
 large shipping, between Port Underwood, in Cloudy 
 Bay, and Port Cooper, on the north coast of Banks's 
 Peninsula.
 
 \IPBELL AND OTAGO. :3'27 
 
 This peninsula is about 10 miles long, from N.W. to 
 .., and averages o in breadth, from N.E. to S.W. 
 It has been estimated to contain about 30,000 acres of 
 land; but it consists almost entirely of steep, rugged 
 hill?, forming a bluff, rocky coast, all round the penin- 
 sula. They are chiefly clothed with wood, and com- 
 posed of a clayey rock, the surface of which forms, by 
 decomposition, a poor barren soil. In the circum- 
 scribed spaces of level land, formed by streams near 
 their mouths, close to the sea-coast, a little rich alluvial 
 land may be found; but in the whole peninsula there 
 is no great extent of such land. There is also a little 
 fern-covered hind and grassy downs, especially at the 
 N.W. extremity of the peninsula, which connects 
 Banks's, Peninsula with the main. Here two of the 
 small rivers above mentioned, the Waimakariri and 
 the Putarekamutu, fall into the bight, which is called 
 Pegasus Bay. Little is known as to the capabilities of 
 their entrances for admitting vessels. Inland, they are 
 said to be navigable for boats nearly to the base of the 
 mountains. In the country through which they mean- 
 der, two brothers, named Deans, have established a 
 cattle-station. They have squatted here since 1841, 
 when they removed from the neighbourhood of Wel- 
 lington, to which place they had originally emigrated 
 from Ayrshire in one of the Company's ships, which 
 left Scotland in 1839. They now possess a large stock 
 of cattle, horses, and sheep. The land hereabouts 
 affords great facilities for pasturage, if distributed in 
 extensive portions. But it does not appear adapted for 
 tillage in small lots, the wooded portions being few and 
 far between, and the soil of large tracts apparently of 
 but moderate quality. 
 
 The main land continues level at the back of the 
 peninsula, which is, indeed, an isolated mass of hills, 
 and has probably been actually an island at no very 
 distant geological period. Captain Cook, who did not
 
 328 PORT ASHLEY AND 
 
 approach near enough to the land to see the isthmus, 
 called the peninsula Banks's Island 011 his charts. 
 
 Port Cooper and Port Ashley* are two hays, with a 
 common entrance, two miles in width, which is about 
 six miles east from the mouth of the Putarekamutu, 
 and but a little way east of the spot where the hills of 
 the peninsula join the level land of the isthmus. These 
 harbours have never been accurately surveyed; but 
 they have depth of water and good anchorage for ves- 
 sels of moderate size. They are not, however, tho- 
 roughly sheltered from all weathers, Port Cooper being 
 open to the N.EX, and Port Ashley to the N. The 
 following is the account of these harbours given by 
 Captain Smith, in his Report, dated November, 1842, 
 before alluded to (page 292) : 
 
 " The easternmost bead of Port Ashley is rocky, though not high; 
 the westernmost, which also forms one of the heads of Port Cooper, 
 is high and perpendicular, receding a little from the general line of 
 coast : the entrance to these two harbours cannot easily be mistaken ; 
 from this point the high lauds of the peninsula begin tc fall off to- 
 wards the great plain. Port Ashley is about a mile wide, and about 
 six miles long ; it is straight, its direction slightly inclining to the 
 east of north. 
 
 " The harbour of Port Ashley is easy of access with almost all 
 winds; there is no bar; the depth of water at the entrance is nine 
 fathoms, shoaling gradually to three opposite the native settlement, 
 aud there is no necessity for vessels to go higher for either wood or 
 water, or for any other purpose. The usual anchorage is off the 
 Bluff, which in shape much resembles a sperm whale's head ; the 
 ordinary tides rise about six feet, the springs seven feet. It is high 
 water at the full and change of the moon, about half-past five o'clock. 
 The holding ground is a blue clay, and very firm. It is considered 
 an excellent harbour, and well sheltered from all the prevailing 
 winds. The N. and N.E. winds, which draw up the harbour, are 
 seldom either violent or enduring; from the appearance of the hills, 
 I supposed it subject to flurries in N.W. and S.W. gales; but I am 
 told this is not the case, except in a trifling degree, as the former 
 wind draws up Port Cooper, which is close by, and the latter draws 
 down, thus relieving Port Ashley from their ill effects. 
 
 " Port Ashley, though an excellent harbour, is quite unfit for a 
 settlement, and especially for a settlement on a large scale, as there 
 
 * Formerly called Port Levy.
 
 POUT COOI'KR. 329 
 
 is no place fit for a Township. There arc live valleys, containing 
 altogether about -LOO acres of tolerably level land, and four arc well 
 timbered, but there arc only two of these which could be connected, 
 and neither these nor any of the others could be made to communi- 
 cate with country land, without very great difficulty and expense. 
 The native population here amounts to about 100 persons, the white 
 population varies from '20 to 30." 
 
 ***** 
 
 " I proceeded to visit Port Cooper, which is just round the high 
 Bluff, as I have stated before. This harbour is considerably larger 
 than Port Ashley, is equally accessible, except in strong S.W. winds; 
 it has about the some depth of water, and the holding ground is 
 equally good ; but on the whole, it is not considered so good a har- 
 bour as Port Ashley, because the most prevailing and violent winds 
 draw through it, producing a considerable swell. There is, how- 
 ever, near the entrance on the east side, a small bay in which four 
 or five vessels may ride nearly land-locked, and sheltered from all 
 winds; on the same side there are several small bays, which are 
 excellent harbours for boats and small craft. The shores of Port 
 Cooper, like those of Port Ashley, are bold and rocky, the hills 
 above them are nearly of the same character, but more rugged, espe- 
 cially on. the west side. There is only one valley in this harbour 
 in which there is any wood near the shore, that is the valley in which 
 the natives, about thirty in number, are settled, on the west side, 
 about, a mile above the reefs. There are some patches of wood on 
 the hills, but they are difficult to approach. Having reached the 
 island, which rises to about 2f)0 feet above the level of the harbour, 
 I lauded on the shelly beach, and ascended the hill, in order to cor- 
 rect and complete my sketch. During my walk there, I flushed 
 several quail, and from that circumstance I gave it the name of 
 Quail Island. I now crossed again to the east side, and from thence 
 to the native settlement, sounding as I went: at this part of the 
 harbour the greatest depth 1 found was 3^ fathoms." 
 
 As to the communication between Port Cooper and 
 the level plains on the isthmus and mainland, and the 
 character of those plains where they adjoin closely 
 the Peninsula, we may refer to the following extracts 
 from a report made by Captain Daniell and Mr. George 
 Duppa, two Wellington Colonists, in August, 1841, 
 to Colonel Wakefield, of an Exploring Expedition 
 undertaken by them to Kaikora and Banks's Penin- 
 sula.* 
 
 * Printed in New Zealand Journal, vol. iv., August 19, 
 No. 0"), p. 211. 
 
 F F 2
 
 330 COUNTRY ON MAINLAND 
 
 " The bills' on the eastern entrance of the harbour (Port Cooper) 
 present a rounded arid down-like appearance, with strata of rock of 
 a highly volcanic nature, showing themselves in parallel horizontal 
 lines through the rich mould, and dense herbaceous vegetation 
 which covers their sides and tops : all the hills on this side of the 
 harbour present this appearance, forming three or four bays, more 
 or less deep, affording shelter for vessels, and each containing 
 several acres of flat laud at its head, available for building purposes, 
 and for repairing vessels of easy draught of water. 
 
 " At low-water, the head of the harbour presents a large mud-flat 
 of blue clay from five to six hundred acres in extent, with a small 
 stream of fresh- water running through it, the drainage of the several 
 valleys situated at the foot of the hills enclosing the head of the 
 harbour, and containing in all about 800 acres of positively flat land. 
 " The sides of the hills on the western entrance are precipitous 
 and abrupt for about a mile and a half up the harbour, where there 
 is a break in them : they slope more, towards the water's edge, 
 affording not only considerable space for buildings, but likewise 
 rendering it no difficult matter to carry a road over them into a 
 bay containing from 150 to UOO acres of perfectly flat land facing to 
 the N.E. From the N.W. extremity of this bay, the road can be 
 continued over some rocks about a quarter of a mile in extent, to 
 the south banks of a river* which affords a good water-carriage of 
 from fifteen to twenty miles in extent, but which from the circum- 
 . stance of the river's winding round the foot of the several hills of 
 the peninsula, as they abut upon the isthmus, does not extend, in 
 a direct line, further inland than from eight to ten miles : this 
 river at its mouth, at high-water, covers a space of about 000 or 
 700 acres ; a little distance up, however, its channel is narrowed to 
 about eighty yards, gradually decreasing until at last it becomes a 
 mere stream, too narrow and too shallow for boating; the depth of 
 water in the river at low tide averaged from four to six feet, only 
 one shallow, for about three or four hundred yards, presenting itself 
 in the whole of its course until it becomes of no service whatever 
 as a water-carriage. 
 
 " We did not get bottom on the bar at low-water with a twelve- 
 feet oar ; and as the tide rises from six to eight feet, large barges 
 could easily be introduced into the river for the purpose of removing 
 the produce of the harbour for shipment, were it necessary. The 
 channel over the bar lies in the direction of N. by E. and S. by W., 
 alongside and to the westward of some rocks which cannot be mis- 
 taken, over which a surf is constantly breaking inside the bar; a 
 very curious angular-shaped rock, about thirty yards in height, pro- 
 jects into the stream, around which the channel winds, ;ind then 
 suddenly turns to the south bank of the river, and is then easily 
 traced by the depth or shiillowness of the water. 
 
 " The isthmus connecting the peninsula with the main land is 
 
 * The Putarekatmitu.
 
 NEAR 15ANK>'>. I'KMNSILA. O.'31 
 
 mucL more extensive thaii is represented on the earlier charts ; and 
 in-tca<l of being a low sandy neck, as is there stated, it consists of 
 the richest oil, covered with vegetation of most luxuriant growth, 
 and being from four to ten, and in many places twenty, feet above 
 the level of the sea; and nowhere does it present the appearance of 
 ever being flooded : and from my own observation as 1 walked over 
 it as our boat was going tip the river, I think I may safely say that 
 there is but a very small portion of land in comparison with the 
 whole district, which the plough would not completely drain, and 
 that, in most instances, even that portion could be laid dry at a very 
 trifling expense ; for the few swamps that do exist have, for the 
 most part, an outlet into the river or elsewhere, which prevents their 
 forming lagoons in the wet season of the year, but which during the 
 summer become so choked up with vegetation as to prevent the 
 swamps from completely draining themselves ; but under any cir- 
 cumstances, they form so insignificant a portion of this immense 
 district, that they are hardly worth mentioning. 
 
 ' The soil appears to be of a very recent formation, consisting 
 chiefly of a rich, dark, vegetable mould, with a sufficient admixture 
 of clay to form a good wheat soil ; and for barley, oats, potatoes, 
 and, in fact, for all succulent roots, I may safely venture to say that 
 a better description of soil could not be conceived. The substratum, 
 which commences about a spit and a half under the surface, being 
 of a sandy nature, renders the district sufficiently dry, as a sheep 
 pasture, to secure one against foot-rot. This circumstance, too, 
 would lead one to think that Banks's Peninsula was, at no very 
 great distance of time, an island, and that the isthmus has been 
 formed by the surf on either side meeting and depositing a sand 
 bunk, iu the same manner that the tide meeting the stream of a 
 river forms a bar across its mouth ; and that in the course of time, 
 vru'oution of an inferior order has commenced upon it, and in its 
 season died down, and thus gradually formed a soil for a superior kind 
 of NO:.', union, and that in this instance it has been greatly assisted by 
 the alluvial deposit from the hills of the peninsula ; in fact, this 
 very process appears to be going on at the present moment, for, as 
 you recede from the sea side, so the vegetation improves, and the 
 barren sand which is washed up by the sea, passes gradually into a 
 rich vegetable mould. 
 
 " As I have already stated, the isthmus is not so narrow as repre- 
 sented on the charts, but is certainly quite as broad as the peninsula 
 itself, and it appears to be a part and parcel of the mainland, which 
 forms an extensive plain, extending as far as the eye can reach 
 inland, and as far North as the Lookers-on; being the termination, 
 or rather commencement of a chain of lofty mountains covered with 
 snow, which, abutting on the sea-shore at Kai Kora, recede from 
 the coast as they stretch away at the S.NY. until they disappear below 
 the horizon, forming the Western boundary of au immense plain, 
 containing millions of acres of the richest soil, covered with, grasses
 
 332 COUNTRY IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD 
 
 of most luxuriant growth, and dotted with groves of pine trees, 
 which become more numerous as you approach the mountains, witli 
 here and there a small lake or the bend of a river, presenting on the 
 whole a most inviting and magnificent appearance. From the hills 
 on Banks's Peninsula, water of considerable extent shows itself 
 some distance inland : whether this is a lake or the branch of a 
 river, remains still to be proved ; it was with the intention of ascer- 
 taining this that we started on an expedition up the river, imagining 
 that as it wound iis way through so plain a country, its size would 
 not decrease so rapidly as it proved to do. Under any circumstances, 
 however, the country must drain itself in some direction, and future 
 settlement will discover in which, without stepping far out of the 
 way." 
 
 These gentlemen also state that the portion of the 
 Peninsula contiguous to Port Cooper consists of" gently 
 undulating downs, covered with the richest grasses, and 
 peopled with a fine species of quail." 
 
 Captain Smith also says: 
 
 " Being anxious to see something of the great Plain to the west- 
 ward, I ascended to the top of the hills at the back of the settlement 
 (at Port Cooper) ; from thence I had a magnificent view of that 
 part of the Plain, to the N.W. of the Peninsula ; I was prevented 
 from seeing that part which is to the S.W. by the intervention of 
 some of the other hills. I could see the river Putarekanmtu, 
 which winds about through the plain ; this river empties itself into 
 the sea about six miles from the entrance of Port Cooper. I am 
 told that though this river is narrow, there is water enough for 
 boats to ascend 30 miles, and that the same point may be reached 
 by land in a distance of less than 10. At 9 miles further, there is 
 another river, called the Wai Makariri. This is considerably larger 
 than the Putftrekamutu. I am told, at its entrance it is about 
 mile wide, and that it soon spreads into a broad basin. Vessels of 
 50 tons may go up five miles ; the river then dividing into several 
 branches. Beyond this, at the distance of about 13 miles, is 
 another river called the Kai-a-poia ; the weather was not clear 
 enough for me to see it. * * * * " The harbour (Port Cooper) 
 above the island divides itself into three bays. The water is shoal 
 in all ; the middle bay is for the most part dry at low water. At its 
 head, the low land is swampy, and the hills at the hack are low but 
 rugged. A road might easily be cut through them to the great 
 plain, near the banks of the Waiora Lake. I could see this part of 
 the country, and the UO Mile Beach in the distance, from the hills 
 above the native settlement; and the only place near Port Cooper 
 on which a town could be laid out, appeared to me to be beyond the 
 low rugged range, at about three miles from the shallow part of the 
 harbour."
 
 OF BANKS'.S PENINSULA. .333 
 
 Another harbour, called Pigeon Bay, also lies on the 
 north side of the peninsula, open to the N., about three 
 miles E. of Port Ashley. Captain Smith thus de- 
 scribes it: 
 
 " Pigeon Bay is a deep inlet on the north side of Banks's Penin- 
 sula, about six miles long, nearly straight, and from a mile to a mile 
 and n half wide. It is easily accessible, unless the wind is blowing 
 strong from the S.W. It has no bar; the general depth of water 
 varies from six to nine fathoms, increasing with tolerable regularity; 
 the rise of tide is about six feet, except at the springs, when it rises 
 scvi-ii fi-ct. Pigeon Bay is generally considered a good and safe 
 harbour. The prevailing winds, as in all other parts of the peiiin 
 sula, arc from the N.W. to S.W. ; these are the most violent. Strong 
 north-westers seldom blow more than six or seven hours ; but if it 
 works round to the S.W., which it sometimes does, it generally lusts 
 thin- days, seldom more. The holding ground is very good, and 
 there arc no dangerous rocks or shoals either inside or outside of 
 the harbour. The country round Pigeon Bay is very hilly; that to- 
 wards the entrance is well adapted to the depasturing of sheep and 
 cattle; it is almost entirely covered with grass. Further up the 
 harbour it becomes wooded ; on the west side, at about three miles 
 and a half from the entrance, there is a valley through which a fine 
 little stream of water runs. This, I think, contains from GOO to 800 
 acres of good land, which is thickly covered with timber. At the 
 month of this valley I found a very good house, which has been 
 lately built by two young Englishmen, who live there and occupy 
 themselves in sawing timber and cultivating the soil, which appears 
 to be very rich. At the head of Pigeon Bay, there is, 1 think, about 
 :>0( 10 acres of Hat land ; through this a fine little stream flows; at 
 high water, boats may go nearly half a mile up it, but they may land 
 on the beach at all times of the tide, as the water is, close to the 
 shore, deep. 
 
 " I have no doubt but that a road may be made from Akaroa to 
 Pigeon Bay, and this being accomplished, there will be no diflicnlty 
 in carrying a branch road towards the S.W. angle of the peninsula, 
 and by the north end of the Lake Waiora to all parts of the great 
 I'liiin lying between l!;uiks'.s Peninsula and the roots of the southern 
 Alps. Cattle have been driven from Oihoa (or Go-ashore), which is 
 at the S.W. angle of the peninsula and near the plain, to Akaroa in 
 about eight hours, at a time when there was not a track of any kind ; 
 my informant was one of the drovers. The roads must necessarily 
 be hilly ; but as there is not a great deal of wooded land to pass 
 through, the surveyor will not, I think, have much difficulty in find- 
 ing out the best lines. Materials for metalling the roads will be 
 found abundant and good. 
 
 " Should Pigeon Bay ever become the site of a settlement, the
 
 334 AKAROA HARBOUR. 
 
 best situation for a township will be found close to the water at the 
 head of the harbour : its form may be compact and convenient ; the 
 stream running through it would afford an abundant supply of fresh 
 water, and it would stand at the extremity of the line of communi- 
 cation between Akaroa and the interior. The soil is a rich alluvium, 
 producing abundance of fine timber of the best kinds ; the substrata 
 are loam and clay, which appeared to me to be fit for making bricks. 
 The house of the Englishmen who live here is plastered with it." 
 
 The south-east point of Banks's Peninsula is in S. 
 lat. 43 52' 15", E. long. 173. About a mile west of 
 this point is the entrance of Akaroa harbour. Captain 
 Smith says of it: 
 
 " The heads of Akaroa harbour are remarkable; the north head 
 is much the highest ; off it is a rock, in shape and appearance like a 
 long boat; the south head is a perpendicular rock of a dark grey 
 colour; there is a reef at the foot of it, but it is not considered dan- 
 gerous ; the breadth of the entrance is about three quarters of a 
 mile; this is the narrowest part of the harbour. It is not thought 
 prudent to enter with a south-west wind, as baffling and heavy 
 squalls rush down from the high lands ; in moderate weather it is 
 considered perfectly safe and easy of access ; the depth of water iii- 
 side the heads is about fourteen fathoms ; the only reef inside the 
 harbour is on the north shore off Green's Point ; it extends a full 
 quarter of a mile from the point." 
 
 The land round this harbour is steep, and but of 
 moderate quality. The distance to the level plains is 
 about 20 miles, over hills only fit for pasture. 
 
 There is a small settlement in one of the bays at the 
 head of the harbour, which was originated by the at- 
 tempt of a French Association, the Nanto-Bordelaise 
 Company, to found a colony under the auspices of the 
 French Government. The emigrants, consisting of 
 43 males and 20 females, of the agricultural class, 
 arrived at the Bay of Islands early in 1840, in a large 
 vessel, accompanied by a French corvette. The Eng- 
 lish Government had been compelled, by the proceed- 
 ings of the New Zealand Company, to send out Capt. 
 Hobson as Lieutenant- Governor, to obtain possession 
 of New Zealand for Her Majesty. In the northern 
 part of the islands, it was considered necessary to ac- 
 quire the sovereignty from the aboriginal Chiefs, who
 
 NANTO-BORDELAISE COMPANY. 335 
 
 had been acknowledged as independent; but as respects 
 the Middle and Stewart's Islands, it was thought suffi- 
 cient to proclaim British Sovereignty, as derived from 
 Captain Cook's discovery. Captain Hobson had for- 
 tunately arrived at the Bay of Islands before the 
 French expedition, and the French commander acceded 
 to the British Governor's request, that he should allow 
 an English brig-of-war to proceed to Akaroa before 
 him, carrying a Magistrate who should hoist the British 
 flag, and establish British authority, before the landing 
 of the French settlers. 
 
 Mr. C. B. llobinson was the gentleman appointed to 
 this service. He accordingly proceeded in H. M. B. 
 Britomart, to Akaroa, and carried out his instructions. 
 He remained in the performance of the duties of 
 Resident Police Magistrate at this place until the end 
 of 1845, when he was succeeded by Mr. J. Watson, 
 who now holds the same situation. 
 
 The only capitalist among the French Colonists was 
 M. S. de Beligny, the agent of the Nanto-Bordelaise 
 Company, who remained there for one or two years, 
 and then returned to France. The small number of 
 French has since decreased, by the migration of some 
 of its members to other parts of the colony: but several 
 English and Americans have joined the settlement. 
 
 The French Company lays claim, by virtue of pur- 
 chase from the natives and subsequent expenditure in 
 colonization, to the whole Peninsula, supposed to con- 
 tain 30,000 acres; but their title has not yet been fully 
 allowed by the English Government. 107 acres of 
 land have been allotted to the French Colonists by the 
 Agent of their Company, and they live partly by what 
 they grow on these allotments, and partly from support 
 afforded them by a French Corvette which is almost 
 always lying in the harbour. Besides their cottages, 
 there is the residence of the Police Magistrate, a small 
 jail, and a tavern or two. 
 
 The Nanto-Bordelaise Company profess to have
 
 336 AKAROA HARBOUR. 
 
 spent, " in bringing out the emigrants, in maintaining 
 them in the Colony, according to the agreement made 
 with them in France, for 17 months, in supplying them 
 with agricultural implements, medicine and other 
 necessaries, for building hospital, stores, dwellings, &c., 
 in making roads, bridges, drains, &c., exclusively for 
 the public service, 15,125/."* 
 
 Several Englishmen and Americans also claim por- 
 tions of the Peninsula, on the strength of Deeds signed 
 by natives: but the extent to which these claims will 
 be allowed by the Government has not yet been finally 
 determined. 
 
 Some of these claimants have considerable herds of 
 cattle running on the hills. 
 
 Some police constables and boatmen are employed at 
 Akaroa by Government. The port is not so much 
 frequented by whaling-ships as might be inferred from 
 its position, because the violent flurries of wind from 
 the high headlands surrounding it render its narrow 
 entrance rather difficult, and even dangerous. A cutter 
 of 50 tons, in which Captain Smith made his exploring 
 voyage, was capsized by a squall and sunk, while at- 
 tempting to enter this harbour on her return. All 
 Captain Smith's charts and manuscripts, as well as his 
 own and the Company's surveying instruments, were 
 thus lost. 
 
 The following remarks are made by the Bishop of 
 New Zealand on the harbours of Banks's Peninsula, 
 which have been described, and the country near 
 them: 
 
 "14 February, 1844. * * Akaroa is a noble harbour, seven 
 miles in length, with rather a narrow entrance, widening into a 
 broad sheet of water, perfectly land-locked ; the only drawback is the 
 height of the hills around it, from which furious gusts come sud- 
 
 * For the Official Correspondence on this subject, and M. \\c 
 Beligny's Evidence before the Land Commissioners, see Appendix 
 to H. of Commons' Report on N. Z., Qftlh July, 1844, No. Olid, pp. 
 433 to 442.
 
 BANKS'S PENINSULA. 337 
 
 denly down, endangering small vessels if the sails are not kept in 
 hand." * * * " The wind being now contrary, I stayed two days at 
 Akaroa, and looked over the settlement, where there are about eighty 
 French settlers, nnd about fifty English, with a few Germans. Some 
 of the French settlers have good gardens." * * * "February 15. 
 The wind being still contrary, I walked over to Pigeon Bay, on the 
 north side of the Peninsula. * * * In this bay I found some Scotch 
 settlers of the right sort, living in great comfort by their own exer 
 tions ; making everything for themselves, and, above all, keeping up 
 their religions principles and usages, though far from any ministerial 
 assistance." * * * " Felnmry 10, 17, 18. * * * Port Cooper is 
 surrounded by precipitous hills, with very little level ground , but an 
 opening can be made without difficulty, to the extensive plains which 
 range along the eastern shore of this Island from Kaikoura (Lookers- 
 on) to Moerangi." Annals of the Diocese of New Zealand. Lon- 
 don, 1847, pp. 144 to 140. 
 
 West of Akaroa harbour, there are two or tliree 
 Avhaling-Ptations on the coast Hikurangi, Pirangi, and 
 Oihoa (Go-ashore) (See p. 193), dependent on "Wel- 
 lington. The anchorage near them is bad, and com- 
 pletely exposed to the southerly gales, which often 
 blow with great violence. One or two small vessels, 
 which have anchored there to receive the oil and 
 whalebone from the fisheries, have been consequently 
 driven ashore and totally wrecked. 
 
 For 20 miles south of Hikurangi the coast consists 
 of a shingly bank, about half a mile broad, inland of 
 which is the lake called "Waihola, or more properly 
 Waiora. This lake is about 18 miles in length from 
 N.E. to S.W., and fills up a large portion of the level 
 space between the sea and the mountains. Nothing is 
 yet known of the level country between the mountains 
 and the lake: but it is probably watered by numerous 
 streams flowing into the lake, as it occasionally breaks 
 a passage in certain spots through the shingly barrier. 
 
 South of this, for 60 miles further, the shingly beach 
 continues, backed by grassy plains, which extend to 
 the foot of the mountains, here gradually diverging to 
 the westward. A river, called Te \Vai-a-te-Ruati, 
 then flows into the sea. 
 
 Fifty-four miles further south, still along shingly 
 
 G G
 
 338 EAST COAST OF MIDDLE ISLAND. 
 
 beach, backed by grassy plains, is another river, called 
 Waitangi, of some importance. The Bishop of New 
 Zealand describes it as 
 
 " A deep and rapid torrent, rushing through a labyrinth of gravel 
 banks and small islands, and in summer much swollen by the melt- 
 ing of the snow on the mountains in the interior."* 
 
 Thirty-nine miles S. of the Waitangi's mouth, is 
 Moerangi, already mentioned at pages 295 and 309. 
 
 The beach, from Waitangi to Moerangi, is sandy; 
 with level grassy plains at its back. 
 
 All along the whole of this coast, from Cape Camp- 
 bell to Moerangi, there are but very few permanent in- 
 habitants of the aboriginal race; who have insignificant 
 villages on Banks's Peninsula, and at one or two places 
 to the South, where the natives who reside at Otago, 
 the Bluff, on the shores of Foveaux's Strait, or on 
 Stewart's Island, occasionally sojourn for a few days or 
 weeks, in the course of their journeys along the coast 
 in search of seals, or whalebone from the stranded 
 carcases of wounded whales, which they sell to the 
 few European settlers, or to vessels which chance to 
 anchor in any of the harbours. 
 
 Captain Smith thus concludes his Report, already 
 quoted from: 
 
 " I have now, sir, reported upon all the harbours which I have 
 visited, and to the best of my recollection have stated all the most 
 important particulars relating to each ; and it appears to me, on 
 mature consideration, that (should it be the intention of the New 
 Zealand Company to establish a settlement in New Munster), Akaroa 
 will be found best suited to the purpose. The harbour is quite as 
 accessible as any other ; it is more extensive, has the best site for a 
 town, and is in the neighbourhood of the most extensive tracts of 
 land, adapted to the purposes of grazing and agriculture. 
 
 " Akaroa is the resort of the greatest number of the ships em- 
 ployed to the southward of the Bay of Islands in the whale fishery ; 
 and" as many as fifteen, I have been told, have been seen lying there 
 at a time. The two last reasons for preferring Akaroa to any other 
 port in New Munster, will apply to the other harbours on Banks's 
 
 * See also page 295.
 
 SETTLEMENT OF AUCKLAND. 339 
 
 Peninsula. Should it not be expedient to establish the settlement on 
 any of these harbours, Otugo will be found preferable in every res- 
 pect to Bloomfield Harbour (the Bluff.) It is more easy of access, 
 has more room for shipping, a better site for a town, and has more 
 land fit for grazing and agricultural puqwses in its immediate 
 neighbourhood. On the shores of Foveaux Strait, I think Port 
 Somes (called the Neck, and sometimes Patterson's River), or Port 
 Adventure, will be found best suited to the purpose of a settle- 
 ment." 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Auckland District. Official Information. Gu/f of Hnitraki. 
 Talh-ij <>f the Thames. Harbour and Town of Auckland. 
 Adjacent Jf arbours and Districts. Climate. Xttturat Produc- 
 tions. Distribution of Land, d-c. Prices and Wages. Sta- 
 tistics. Directory. 
 
 ALTHOUGH the Settlement of Auckland, which was 
 founded by Governor Hobson, in the Northern part of 
 the North Island, in September, 1840, has ever since 
 been maintained, under the sole management of the 
 Colonial Office, as the Capital and seat of government 
 for the whole Colony, it is very difficult to obtain any 
 full and authentic information about it. As to the 
 southern settlements, the details contained in the fore- 
 going chapters are easily procured at New Zealand 
 House, where maps, drawings, books, documents, and 
 files of the local newspapers, and of the New Zealand 
 Journal, are perfectly accessible to any one seeking 
 information. The editor of this compilation applied to 
 Mr. Hawes, the Under Secretary of State for the 
 Colonies, for access to information for that purpose 
 with regard to the government settlement, and received 
 the following reply: 
 
 " Downing-street, 2nd March, 1848. 
 
 " SIB, Having submitted to Earl Grey the request contained in 
 your letter to me of the 20th ultimo, I am directed by his Lordship 
 to state that he is not aware of any information relating to the
 
 340 INFORMATION AT COLONIAL OFFICE. 
 
 Northern or indeed to any portion of New Zealand which has been 
 considered proper for publication, and has not been laid before 
 Parliament, unless it be amongst the very early correspondence 
 with the Governor of New South Wales. 
 
 " On this subject, however, Lord Grey would be glad if you will 
 specify more distinctly what is the particular information which you 
 are anxious to procure. 
 
 " I have, &c., 
 
 (Signed) "HERMAN MEKIVALE." 
 
 On specifying very distinctly the heads of informa- 
 tion required, and suggesting that much of that in- 
 formation might probably be contained in the local 
 Newspapers and Government Gazettes, which he pre- 
 sumed to have been filed at the Colonial Office, the 
 editor received the following letter: 
 
 " Downing-street, 14th March, 1848. 
 
 "Sin, T have laid before Earl Grey your letter of the ith 
 instant, and I am directed to acquaint you in reply, that on applying 
 to the Librarian of this Office, you will have full access to the files 
 of Auckland Newspapers. 
 
 " Lord Grey directs me to inform you that the statistical details 
 which are annually required from the Governors of Colonies have 
 not been received from New Zealand, which may be accounted for 
 by its having been impossible for the Local Government in the 
 present unsettled and progressive state of the Colony to supply this 
 information with that accuracy which is required in Official Eeturns. 
 Lord Grey can therefore only supply you with such information as 
 may be derived from the less authentic sources of the Local News- 
 papers. 
 
 "I have, &c., 
 
 (Signed) " HEBMAN MERIVALE." 
 
 The only local Newspapers, however, produced by 
 the librarian of the Colonial Office, on applying accord- 
 ingly on the 10th of August, consisted of a very im- 
 perfect file of the New Zealander,* between November, 
 1845, and the 1st of January, 1848, of which many 
 numbers in one place, for six consecutive weeks 
 were missing; of two odd numbers of the Southern 
 Cross* 26th February and 4th March, 1848; and one 
 
 * Auckland Newspapers.
 
 GULF OF HAUKAKI. 341 
 
 odd number of each of the Wellington newspaper*, 
 also of March, 1848. 
 
 The editor has therefore been compelled to seek 
 elsewhere for more recent and more perfect files of the 
 local newspapers, as well as of the Neiu Zealand 
 Government Gazettes. He has also gathered all the 
 information possible from the reports and publications 
 of the Colonial Land and Emigration Commissioners: 
 and he has availed himself, for a description of the 
 country in the northern part of the North Island, of 
 the work published in 1843 by Dr. Dieffenbach, na- 
 turalist to the New Zealand Company.* The stock of 
 information will therefore necessarily appear imperfect 
 and meagre, when compared with that afforded as to 
 the Southern, or Company's Settlements ; but it is 
 hoped that the above reasons will be considered a suffi- 
 cient explanation of the contrast. 
 
 Dr. Dieffenbach thus describes the district in the 
 immediate neighbourhood of Auckland, and the Town 
 and Harbour themselves: 
 
 " What is commonly called the Thames is a very large estuary or 
 gulf on the eastern coast of New Zealand, containing several har- 
 bours, and many islands of various dimensions, and receiving the 
 waters of two rivers of considerable size. I give to the whole the 
 name of the Gulf of Hauraki, although the natives apply this name 
 only to the eastern part, which receives the river Waiho, or Thames, 
 and the river Piako. If the denomination of ' Thames' is to be re- 
 tained, instead of the well-sounding native name of Waiho, tliis part 
 of the gulf would be most appropriately called the ' Frith of the 
 Thames.' 
 
 " The northern headland of the Gulf of Hauraki is formed by Point 
 Rodney; the southern headland is Cape Colville ; the distance be- 
 tween them being about forty miles. Cape Colville is the extreme 
 hetdland of a long promontory, forming the eastern limit of the 
 Frith of the Thames ; throughout its length runs a chain of wooded 
 hills, with a sharp crest and steep declivitous sides, which are washed 
 by tin' sea both on the eastern and western coast ; but on the latter 
 the rocky line is interrupted by an inlet, which forms Waihao or 
 Coromandel harbour: at the back of the harbour the hills rise into 
 remarkable pinnacled and pyamidieal summits. 
 
 * See pages 50, 278. 
 G G 2
 
 342 COROMANDEL HARBOUR. 
 
 " To the southward tliis hilly chain continues along the eastern 
 coast : at the foot of their western slope runs the Waiho, or the river 
 Thames. Here the chain of hills assumes the name of the Arolm 
 (Love) mountains, and borders the valley of the Thames to the east- 
 ward, shutting it from the sea. Besides the Waiho, another river, 
 the Piako, flows in this valley, and has its embouchure close to 
 that of the former. 
 
 " Waihao or Coromandel Harbour is twent)>five miles from Cape 
 Colville, and thirty-five from the mouth of the Thames. It is sur- 
 rounded by hills, which on the eastward rise in a series of longitu- 
 dinal ridges to the height of about 1500 feet. To the eastward and 
 northward a stripe of alluvial land runs at the base of the hills ; but 
 otherwise the shores, which consist of a sandstone conglomerate and 
 trap, are so hilly that they render all communication difficult be- 
 tween the natives who live in the 'different small bays around the 
 shores. The shore is covered with verdure. The soil on the lower 
 hills is fertile, and yields abundant supplies to the natives. 
 
 " Kauri timber* is abundant on the hills from Cape Colville to 
 Kati Kati, in the Bay of Plenty, about 37 30' S. lat. Kati Kali is 
 the southernmost boundary of this tree on the east coast of New 
 Zealand. 
 
 " Coromandel Harbour is better adapted for small than for large 
 vessels, as, on account of the shallowness of the water, the latter 
 cannot enter far enough to be effectually protected from the outer 
 swell, although there is good holding-ground. 
 
 " The natives who live in Coromandel Harbour arc sub-divisions 
 of the Nga-te-paoa. The whole tribe amounts to 5000, who do not 
 all live in Coromandel Harbour, portions of them being established 
 at the entrance into the river Thames, at different parts of the Gulf 
 of Hauraki, and at Mercury Bay. They ha^e greatly diminished ill 
 number in consequence of their late wars. 
 
 " From Coromandel Harbour to the entrance of the river Thames 
 the coast is rocky, and there is no communication between Coro- 
 mandel Harbour and the valley of the Thames by laud. The hills 
 are mostly basaltic or amygdaloid, and many fine red and white cor- 
 nelians are found hereabouts. 
 
 " Not far from the entrance into the Thames is a station of the 
 Church Missionary Society, occupying a most picturesque position 
 on the slope of the eastern mountains, which arc crowned by a forest 
 of lofty trees. An arm of the sea, which is joined by a creek, the 
 Wawakaurunga, bathes the foot of the hills, where the buildings are 
 placed ; a fertile alluvial flat spreads along its left shore, on which 
 stands a large native fortification, Kaueranga, often containing nearly 
 2000 inhabitants. 
 
 " There is no harbour, properly speaking, in the Waiho, or Frith 
 
 Dammara Australis, (see page 300).
 
 VALLEV OF THE THAM1 :>. 3 M 
 
 of the Thames, and large vessels cannot approach, as a mudbank 
 stretches out between the Thames and the Piako, which hare their 
 embouchure close to each other : there is, however, a channel into 
 the Thames with a minimum depth of one fathom and a half at dead 
 low water ; higher up the depth of the water is three fathoms to 
 three fathoms and a half. Small vessels have gone np the river 
 nearly fifty miles, and large boats can ascend about ninety miles. 
 A channel also leads into the Piako, bnt this river is the smaller of 
 the two, and at low water admits boats only. 
 
 The land on which the kauri pine grows is, even when cleared, 
 of no use for any other purposes, both from the ragged nature of the 
 ground and from the quality of the soil. Bnt at some distance from 
 the entrance into the Thames, the eastern coast hills, which, seen 
 from the valley, look like a steep artificial embankment, are flat on 
 the top, and slope gradually down to the sea-coast in the Bay of 
 Plenty : the kauri is scarce ; and the forest is a mixed one, in which 
 rata, rimu, totara, and hinan are the most conspicuous. Such land 
 is available, if cleared of the forest ; the kauri being confined to a 
 few steep hills and ravines on the eastern coast. 
 
 " The valley of the Thames is about 100 miles long, extending to 
 the neighbourhood of the inland lake of Botnrna, and, with the ex- 
 ception of the banks of the rivers, where the kabikatea pine grows 
 to great perfection, the whole valley is occupied bj fern, flax, and 
 manuka. This vegetation is interrupted by large ranpo (typha) 
 swamps, which increase towards the months of the rivers, where the 
 country is low and subject to inundations. To the westward the 
 valley of the Thames is bordered by hills ; bnt these are only de- 
 fined and separated lower down towards the frith. Higher up, the 
 valley of the Thames may be said to be united with that of the 
 Waikato* and Wai pa, with the exception of some distinct hilly 
 groups. From the hilly ridge several narrow valleys open towards 
 the frith, and here are the populous native settlements of Wakatiwai 
 and Waiko-kopn. 
 
 " Opposite the island of Waiheke the land becomes comparatively 
 flat and low ; the coast consists of soft sandstone, in cliffs of hori- 
 zontal stratification ; and this is the character of the country to- 
 wards Waitemala. where the town of Auckland is situated. In pass- 
 ing from the outlet of the Thames to the latter place the aspect of 
 the shores is highly picturesque. A luxuriant vegetation covers 
 them to the water s edge, or alternates with the clearings made by 
 the natives. As we approach Auckland several regular volcanic 
 cones rise over the table-land which stretches across the island to 
 the harbour of Manukao. We pass a number of islands, of which 
 that of Waiheke is overtopped with stately kauri pines : from every 
 crevice of the rock on these islands, even where washed by the salt 
 
 " See page 1,'.
 
 344 HARBOUR AND TOWN 
 
 water, the glossy green of various shrubs meet our eyes. These 
 islands in the Gulf of Hauraki, luxuriantly wooded, and divided from 
 each other by deep straits, afford a succession of ever-changing 
 scenery. 
 
 " The harbour of Waitemata is the most important in the Gulf of 
 Hauraki. It lies at the westernmost extremity of the gulf, and 
 stretches its ramifications towards the harbours of Manukao and 
 Kaipara. The entrance into the harbour is distant from Coromau- 
 del Harbour forty miles, from the embouchure of the Thames forty- 
 five miles, from Point Rodney forty miles, and from Cape Colvillc 
 forty-five miles. 
 
 " The latitude of the flag-staff in the military barracks at Auckland 
 is 30 51' 27", its longitude 174 45' 20" E. 
 
 " The northern head of the harbour forms a peninsula at liigh- 
 water. Two conical hills rise here, of which that forming the north 
 head, Takapuna, is 216 feet high, of an irregular form, and consists 
 of a hard basaltic rock ; the other, at a little distance from it, Taka- 
 runga, has on its summit a crater, partially broken in. It is 279 ft. 
 high, and consists of black and reddish vesicular lava. There is 
 now a flag-staff erected on it. The navigable entrance into the har- 
 bour is only three-quarters of a mile broad, as it is narrowed by a 
 reef, the outermost point of which is marked by a beacon, and is 
 distant three-quarters of a mile from a curious bastion-shaped sand- 
 stone rock, which may be regarded as the southern head. Within 
 the heads the channel widens to an average breadth of one mile ; it 
 has its greatest depth on the northern shore, and is shallow on the 
 southern, on which the town of Auckland has been laid out, at the 
 distance of two miles and a half from the south head. 
 
 " The depth of the harbour is from six to nine fathoms in the mid 
 channel, and three and three and a half at the sides.* The inlet 
 continues about ten miles to the westward, sending an arm to the 
 northward towards the river Kaipara, and another to the southward 
 towards the harbour of Manukao. The northern arm has a deep 
 but very narrow channel near the northern shore ; but shoals and 
 rocks obstruct the passage leading towards Manukao, except for 
 large boats, which can go up for several miles in the river-like inlet, 
 and between its upper part and the harbour of Manukao there is a 
 portage of one mile and a half. 
 
 " The usual rise and fall of the tides in Auckland is ten feet ; but 
 they are influenced by the easterly winds, which sometimes raise 
 them to twelve or even thirteen feet : the time of high water at 
 full and change is about Oh. 45m. 
 
 " The variation of the compass is 14, the dip of the needle 
 Gl 7'. 
 
 * At low-water, however, mud-flats stretch out to a considerable 
 distance from the dry land, thus rendering lauding inconvenient. 
 Ed. Handbook for N.Z.
 
 OF AUCKLAND. 315 
 
 " Tlio southern shore, or that oil which Auckland stands, consists 
 of cliffs of a soft pepper-coloured sandstone, or sandstone conglome- 
 rate, with occasional seams of lignite. The country itself is slightly 
 undulating, and forms small hays, which open towards the harbour, 
 and are partially wooded at the hottom. The rest is covered with 
 high fern and manuka. lu the immediate neighbourhood of Auck- 
 land there is no wood, but opposite to it a small stripe of kauri and 
 other forest-treus near the sea-shore has escaped the general confla- 
 gration by which the greater part of the former woods has evidently 
 been destroyed. From this spot the town is provided with timber 
 and firewood. All this land is bad, as is also that at the head of the 
 liarbour; but the soil is much better in the immediate neighbour- 
 hood of Auckland, and thence towards Manukao, and to the east- 
 ward, where it is fit for all kinds of horticultural and agricultural pur- 
 poses. 
 
 " Auckland is well supplied with fresh water, not only by the 
 small water-runs in the valleys, but also by springs, from which it 
 is readily obtained by digging a few feet below the surface. 
 
 " SeveraTvolcanic cones rise in the immediate neighbourhood of 
 the town, at the base of which hard scoriae for buildings and roads 
 can be obtained, and which arc easily worked ; the sandstone, 
 though soft, hardens by exposure to the air, and is a good building 
 material. 
 
 " A mile to the eastward of Auckland there is a small bay called 
 Oraki; it has a narrow entrance, and forms almost a natural dock, 
 and could easily be converted into one by means of sluices. To 
 this place the few natives who form the scanty remnant of the once 
 large tribe of the Nga4e-whatua, the proprietors of Waitemata, have 
 lately returned from Manukao ; they cultivate the laud, and by sup- 
 plying firewood and provisions, and by working for wages, have 
 made themselves very useful to the town. 
 
 " Still farther to the eastward, another inlet, commonly called the 
 Tiimaki, leads towards Manukao ; and here is the shortest portage 
 into the latter harbour, it being only a quarter of a mile across. At 
 the entrance into this channel is a bar, with six feet depth at low 
 water, but inside the channel deepens; vessels of ^00 tons have 
 gone up for some distance, and large barges can go to the portage. 
 The land on both sides of the Tatnaki is excellent; that on the 
 right shore is claimed by the Church Missionary cutechist, Fuirburn, 
 whose possessions extend from this point as far as to the Wairoa 
 river, being an extent of about ninety square miles. A great deal 
 of lignite is found on the Tamaki, but no wood, with the exception 
 of jungle. 
 
 " The town of Auckland, considering the short time it has existed, 
 has made considerable progress. Its population, which amounts to more 
 than .!()( H), lias lie<'ii drawn together from all parts of the island. A Bank 
 Las been formed, fine barracks have been built of scoriae; and were
 
 346 TOWN OF AUCKLAND, 
 
 it not for a general spirit of over-speculation in land, without any 
 attempt to explore the home resources of the island, there would be 
 every ground for hoping that the place would gradually and steadily 
 rise into importance.* The thing that chiefly recommends the 
 situation of this place for the central town of the northern island is 
 its easy communication with the coast, both to the north and to the 
 southward. An inland communication through Kaipara with the 
 Bay of Islands can be effected in five days, even with the present 
 insufficient means of communication. With ths western coast, and 
 with the interior, over Mauukao and the river Waikato, nothing in- 
 terrupts the water-communication but two small portages; and even 
 with Cook's Strait relations can be easily established, either by the 
 river Thames, or the Waikato and Waipa, and the river Wanganui. 
 
 " The coast-trade, particularly, is of the greatest importance, as 
 the nature of the country will cause its colonization at many different 
 points at once : and already a great number of small coasting vessels 
 communicate with Auckland. 
 
 " The Thames and the Piako form an extensive agricultural valley, 
 and as their natural harbour, Waitemata is preferable to Coromandel 
 Harbour. 
 
 " In short, it appears to me that there can be no question but 
 that the place has been very judiciously chosen for the site of a 
 town, as commanding a great extent of cultivable land in its neigh- 
 bourhood, great facility of communication with the coast and the 
 interior of the northern island, and as being a central point for the 
 most powerful native tribes, the Nga-pui to the northward, the 
 Waikato to the southward, and the Nga-te-hatiwa to the eastward, 
 separating them in a military point of view, but uniting them for 
 the purposes of civilization and commerce. 
 
 " The Gulf of Hauraki contains a number of islands, of which 
 Aotea, or the Great Barrier, at the entrance into the gulf, and 
 Waiheke opposite to the entrance into Waitemata harbour, are the 
 most important. The former is nearly eighty miles in circumference, 
 contains much kauri-forest, and possesses an excellent harbour at 
 its north-western extremity; it is called the Great Barrier Harbour, 
 and has only lately been discovered. 
 
 " From the Great Barrier I obtained specimens of a copper ore in 
 a matrix of a decomposed micaceous slate. Some of the specimens 
 contained nearly twenty-five per cent, of copper, the rest was sulphur, 
 iron, and silica. I could not ascertain the extent and position of 
 the vein in which it occurs ; but, from the nature of the surrounding 
 rock, I do not think it improbable that a mine of some importance 
 will be found. 
 
 * This is a description of Auckland in 1842. Much progress 
 has been made since that time, in consequence of the large govern- 
 ment expenditure.
 
 HARBOURS TO THE NORTH. 347 
 
 " Waiheke is about thirty miles in circumference. It bas a bar- 
 bour for small vessels, and there is an anchorage for larger ones in 
 tbe channel which separates the island from the main. It consists 
 mostly of a yellow argillaceous rock and basalt ; it is wooded and 
 hilly, and contains kauri, bat has also many sheltered and cultivable 
 T alleys. 
 
 Both islands are claimed by Europeans, tbe latter by nearly 
 half-a-dozen different parties. Barrier Island is the property of a 
 merchant in Sydney, and some Europeans live there. In Waiheke 
 there are some natives, and also a European family.* 
 
 " Rangitoto is another remarkable island : between it and the 
 mainland is the best channel into Waitemata. It is a cone, rising 
 slowly from the sea, and has on its summit three cones. Rangitoto 
 is an immense heap of scoriae, which, in large hard masses, sur- 
 round it at its base and tbe greater part of its height ; and it is only 
 on the top that a few bushes have taken root. In the middle cone 
 is a very perfect crater, about 150 feet deep. The highest point of 
 the island rises to 920 feet above the level of the sea. 
 
 ' There ore other harbours between the Gulf of Hauraki and the 
 Bay of Islands, in all of which Europeans are settled, but very few 
 natives. It would be tedious to do more than briefly mention 
 them. 
 
 1. The harbour of MaLurangi is situated at a distance of twenty 
 miles from Waitemata. It is of easy access, the depth of water is 
 sufficient for every description of vessels, and there is secure 
 anchorage. It has a southern and a northern passage, of which the 
 former is the best, and has from seven to fifteen fathoms water. A 
 division of the surveying department was sent there, to lay out a 
 town ; but the place, though possessed of some timber, has no par- 
 ticular advantage for a township. 
 
 Matakana, a small harbour, a little to the northward of Ma- 
 hnrangi. It has two fathoms water at the entrance, with some 
 kauri-timber on its shores : several Europeans live there. 
 
 A'angari, an extensive and sheltered harbour. In this neigh- 
 bourhood there is much kauri-fore- 1. 
 
 "4. Putnkaka. 
 
 " 5. Wangamuma. 
 
 " 6. Wangarnrn. In this harbour H. M. S. Buffalo once took 
 in a large cargo of spars." 
 
 In the course of a journey from Auckland to Lake 
 Taupo, begun in March, 1841 , Dr. Dielfenbach proceeds 
 to observe: 
 
 * This island is said to have been once purchased by the agent 
 of the New Zetland Company of 1825. (See p. 53.)
 
 348 ISTHMUS BETWEEN AUCKLAND 
 
 " The country between Waiteraata and Manukao is not only 
 highly interesting to the geologist, but also very promising to the 
 agriculturist. A number of cones rise above the even table-land, 
 which is intersected by moderate valleys. All these cones are ex- 
 tinct volcanoes." 
 
 He describes some of them as having an elevation of 
 500 feet. Their bases are 
 
 " strewed over with large masses of black and cellular scoriae, often 
 forming ridges, or heaped up by the former native inhabitants into 
 mounds, to enable them to cultivate the light black soil between. 
 Near the summits, these scoriae are more friable and of a reddish 
 colour. * * * 
 
 " As the soil between the boulders is very fertile, it may be 
 expected that, at no far distant time, the flanks of these cones will 
 again form sheltered and productive gardens, as a large quantity of 
 scoriae will be consumed in the construction of roads, for which 
 purpose they are particularly adapted. 
 
 " The similarity of these craters with those of the Auvergne, and 
 especially the similarity of their igneous products with those of the 
 extinct volcanoes of that place, is striking. 
 
 " The distance across the country from Auckland to the head of 
 Manukao Harbour is about seven miles ; the land slopes gently 
 towards the latter, and is covered with grass, flax, or the benutiful 
 Veronica speciosa, which at the time of my visit was covered with 
 its lilac flowers, filling the air with their perfume. Where this 
 shrub grows it is a sure indication of the richest soil. 
 
 " Between Auckland and Manukao there is no wood, excepting 
 that where the plain is intersected by valleys a few shrubs grow. 
 At the head of Manukao are some native huts, called Onehunga, 
 occasionally inhabited by a few people of the Waikato tribe, who 
 have abundant crops on their neighbouring cultivations, especially 
 of maize. 
 
 " The harbour of Manukao, an inlet about fifteen miles long and 
 eight broad, sends an arm towards the Tamaki in the Hauraki Gulf.* 
 Between these points, as I have already mentioned, is the shortest 
 portage connecting the eastern and the western sea. The upper 
 part of Manukao harbour is shallow, but there is a navigable channel 
 for small craft nearly to its head. Part of the shore at the head is 
 strewed over with hard basaltic lava and cellular scoriae, and it is 
 not difficult to point out, in a cone on the southern shore, the source 
 of this volcanic produce. The northern shore is cliffy, and con- 
 sists of stratified greyish sandstone, or sandstone conglomerate. 
 The stratifications of the latter are sometimes curvilinear. The 
 cliffs are wooded with various trees. But this vegetation is merely 
 
 * See p. 345,
 
 AND MANUKAO HARBOURS. 349 
 
 confined to the coast, as the land which extends from tbe north 
 shore of Mauukao is not covered with anything of higher growth 
 than fern, rushes, Leptospennum, Dracaena, and a few Orchidaceae. 
 This land consists of low hills, the upper soil of which is a stiff 
 clay ; the whole has formerly been covered with kauri-forest, as is 
 proved hy the gum or resin, of which pieces are everywhere found. 
 This tree grows now only near the heads of Manukao Harbour, and 
 on the hills which extend along the sea shore from Kaipara to 
 Manukao. Here the kauri, as in other places, is associated with 
 other pines. Several creeks, capable of turning mills, flow into the 
 harbour. 
 
 " The north head of Manukao is formed by three rugged conical 
 hills ; inside the outer head the coast presents a bold rocky preci- 
 pice, alternating with small secluded hays ; but a vigorous vegeta- 
 tion covers them to the water's edge, and kauri-trees have grown in 
 places where the precipice is inaccessible on account of its rapid 
 declivity. About three miles from the outer headland, the coast 
 sweeps at a right angle round a cliffy inner headland, thus forming 
 a neck of fand about three miles long and as many broad. Round 
 this inner headland, close in-shore, is the best anchorage in the 
 harbour, perfectly sheltered from the N.W. and S.W. winds. A 
 swell, which would be liable to set in from the harbour itself, is 
 broken by a long sandbank occupying the centre of the basin. This 
 place is called Karanga-hawe, and is part of the land claimed by the 
 Manukao New Zealand Company. 
 
 " The southern shore of the harbour consists of undulating and 
 fertile land, which extends from Onehunga towards the Waikato. 
 There is a second channel on that side of the harbour ; and a 
 channel for boats extends towards an arm of the Waikato river the 
 Awaroa with a very easy portage of two miles and a half. 
 
 " The south head is a remarkable steep hill of white movable 
 sand, heaped up by north-westerly gales ; the northern head, how- 
 ever, is a black conglomerate of a rugged shape. 
 
 " Although the harbour of Mauukao has a bar at the entrance, 
 there is a deep and free channel three-quarters of a mile broad close 
 to the northern head. Once between the heads, the channel is deep 
 and free from danger. 
 
 " The tide is full two hours and three-quarters later in Manukao 
 than at Waitemata, and rises to ten feet and a half. 
 
 " Manukao is a place of some importance, from its near neigh- 
 bourhood to Auckland, and the facility of communication with that 
 town and the river Waikato. The best anchorage, and all the 
 timber, and, moreover, a very good situation for a town, are to be 
 found on the northern shore ; but all the good laud is on the 
 southern. To connect the two sides by a road will be difficult and 
 '\l>.-nsive. 
 
 H H
 
 350 MOUTH OF THE WAIKATO. 
 
 The great prevalence of westerly winds on this coast 
 causes Manukao to be, in one respect, not nearly so 
 important as it would seem. It is impossible to beat 
 out of the harbour against a strong westerly wind, on 
 account of the heavy sea raised on the banks at and 
 outside the entrance. Consequently all egress for 
 vessels is frequently closed for several weeks without 
 interruption. 
 
 There are two or three considerable native villages 
 on the shores of Manukao harbour. 
 
 " The distance from Manukao to the Waikato," continues Dr. 
 Dieffenbach, " is thirty miles, and the coast, which consists of a 
 broad and hard sandy beach, with soft sandstone cliffs of a moderate 
 height, runs nearly north and south. There is only one spot which 
 is impassable at high water. The whole district between the sea- 
 coast and the Awaroa (great river), which branches off from the 
 Waikato to the north, eight miles from its mouth, is called Tauroa. 
 The soil is very light, and in some places sandy, but the kumera, of 
 which there are many plantations, thrives very well in it. About 
 ten miles from the north head of the river Waikato sand has been 
 carried by the winds a long distance inland, and is mixed with a 
 great quantity of pumicestone, which is often so firmly imbedded in 
 it as to form a pavement. This pumioestone, and occasionally 
 pieces of black obsidian, are brought down the Waikato river from 
 the volcanic group of the Tongariro, which is situated in the centre 
 of the island, and from which the Waikato takes its rise. 
 
 " The left shore of the Waikato consists, for about eight miles 
 from the sea, of shifting sand; the right shore is hilly, and at the 
 foot of the hills, near the embouchure of the river, is the station of 
 the Church Missionary Society, Maraenui, established two years ago. 
 
 " The outlet of the Waikato does not form a bay, but is a narrow 
 channel, where, at low water, only vessels of about thirty tons can 
 enter. But inside the headlands the Waikato is a stately stream, 
 and when the tide has increased its depth it is navigable even for 
 larger vessels for about a hundred miles, where it is joined by the 
 river Waipa, which is navigable for boats sixty miles farther. 
 
 " Near the mission-station are several native pas, numerously 
 inhabited, but only during certain seasons, as the natives generally 
 live in their plantations higher up, on the banks of the river. 
 About 2500 were present at a meeting which took place the day 
 after my arrival." 
 
 Southward of the Waikato's mouth, and between the 
 left bank of that river and the coast, the hills
 
 WAINGAROA UARBOUR. 351 
 
 ' are sleep on both sides, and run parallel to the coast : which 
 consists partly of cliffs and partly of steep slopes ; and the formation 
 is a solid white sandstone, composed of comminuted shells and 
 grains of quartz, and often rising to a height of 120 feet." 
 
 Further on, the coast-hills consist of yellow argil- 
 laceous slate; and in many places laminar basalt, and 
 also compact basaltic rock, may be observed. Buttresses 
 of the main chain of hills run off towards the sea-coast, 
 forming narrow valleys. Further still, sandstone cliffs 
 draw close to the sea. Then the hilly coast-land as- 
 sumes the character of plateaux and basins, owing 
 their origin to trap formation, and covered with vege- 
 tation. The sandy downs of the coast shelter these 
 places; the soil is a light fertile mould. The appear- 
 ance of m the land continues unchanged until you reach 
 the harbour of "Waingaroa, 
 
 "The northern shore of Waingaroa Harbour consists of very 
 picturesque limestone cliffs, from sixty to seventy feet high, corroded 
 by the action of the water, and half concealed by the overhanging 
 verdure. The limestone is more or less crystalline, and coarse 
 grained, and contains fossils. At the head of the harbour there is 
 a large district consisting of a bluish clay, without, however, any 
 organic remains. Tbe southern shore is formed mostly of a soft 
 ferruginous sandstone. At an arm of the harbour, which here 
 extends for some distance inland, basaltic rock is seen, containing 
 small grains of olivin. Woody Head, or Karaoe, which forms the 
 southern headland of Waingaroa Harbour, appears to consist 
 entirely of this formation. It rises about 900 feet above the level 
 of the sea. 
 
 'In Waingaroa there are about 1200 natives, belonging to the 
 Waikato tribe. They are mostly Christians, and on the southern 
 shore is a missionary establishment belonging to the Wesleyau 
 Society. 
 
 " The harbour of Waingaroa is a long inlet, with a bar at the 
 entrance ; it has, however, a channel of twelve feet at low water, 
 and admits smaller craft, which find shelter in several bays on the 
 northern shore. Off the southern and northern head of the harbour 
 are spits of sand, and the navigable channel is equidistant from both 
 heads. The tide rises ten feet, and at full and change it is high 
 water at ten o'clock. 
 
 " Two rivers empty themselves into the harbour, of which the 
 smaller one comes from the northward, and is called Waingaroa. 
 The larger one comes from the eastward, and is called Wai-te-Tuna :
 
 352 AOTEA. KAWIA. 
 
 it has a channel for boats; nncl from the point at which, on account 
 of falls, it becomes impassable for boats or canoes, an easy walk of 
 four hours leads to the banks of the river Waipa. 
 
 " The coast-hills between Waikato and Waiugaroa, already 
 described, separate the waters of the Waipa and those which rise in 
 the hills and run to the west coast. These hills have an easy slope, 
 both towards the plains of the Waipa and towards the sea-coast. 
 They are lowest at the Wai-te-Tuua, where the common native road 
 is, and here a communication with the interior is most easily 
 established. Thus the harbour of Waingaroa offers many advantages 
 for a settlement, especially as the land in its immediate vicinity is 
 most excellent, both forest and agricultural. Nevertheless the 
 purchases of the Europeans have not been so extensive here as in 
 other parts of the island. 
 
 " The missionaries have a bridle-road, cut by the natives, for 
 about six miles towards the harbour of Aotea, leading along the 
 wooded crest of the hills. 
 
 "Aotea is a long and shallow estuary, with a bar at its mouth, 
 but has several times been entered by a schooner of sixteen tons 
 burden. In Aotea the limestone again appears on the sides of the 
 hills which bound the harbour. On the northern shore is a 
 Wesleyau mission-station, and the native population amounts to 
 1200. 
 
 " On the southern shore may be traced some thick beds of lignite 
 under cliffs of a soft ferruginous sandstone. 
 
 " From Aotea it is a two hours' walk to Kawia. Another good 
 road leads round by the beach, which is here bounded by hills of 
 drift-sand. At a little distance behind them the land is flat and 
 good, and there are many flourishing native plantations slocked 
 with the common vegetables. 
 
 " The harbour of Kawia is one of the most important on the 
 western coast of the northern island. It has a clear entrance about 
 a mile and a quarter broad, and with two fathoms at dead low-water 
 spring-tides. The tide rises twelve feet, and at full and change it 
 is high water at eight o'clock. The best anchorage is along the 
 northern shore, where the depth varies from five to eight fathoms. 
 The harbour forms an irregular basin, aud is joined by two rivers, 
 which descend from the coast range, and admit boats ; the one to 
 the north is the Awaroa, which receives a tributary, the Kauri 
 river, so named from a few kauri-trees which grow here, and are 
 strictly " tapu :" from the right bank of the river the road leads 
 over the hills into the plains of the Waipa; the river to the south is 
 the Wai Arekeke, and here another road leads into the Waipa 
 district, more circuitous, but less hilly. 
 
 " The principal geological feature of the estuary of Kawia is an 
 extensive calcareous formation, which can be examined on the left
 
 COUNTRY TOWARDS WAIPA. 353 
 
 shore of the A \varoa aud on the south side of the harbour. The 
 limestone is of the same description as that ill Waingaroa, aud 
 contains the same fossils, with the addition of great numbers of a 
 large Ostrea, often a foot in length. 
 
 " The principal settlement of the Waikato tribes, who are now in 
 possession of this port of the island, is near the Wesleyan mission- 
 station on the south shore. They are about 1500 in number, and 
 of late most of them have become Christians. There are about 
 forty Europeans settled on the northern shore, who have lived here 
 for several years past. 
 
 " From this being almost the best harbour on the western coast, 
 and the only one of consequence between Mauukao and Port 
 Nicholson, from the quality of the surrounding country, as well as 
 from the immediate neighbourhood of the extensive and fertile 
 Wai pa plains, a town might be established here with every prospect 
 of immediate success. The greater part of the laud in the vicinity 
 of Kawia is claimed by Europeans. 
 
 " On the 20th we went in a canoe to Oparau, a small river a 
 little to the northward of the Awaroa. Its banks are of moderate 
 height : the soil is a good loamy earth, and covered with a luxuriant 
 vegetation of fern and flax. 
 
 " The next day our road led us up the hills, which ascend gently 
 from the sea. We kept along the ridges, and had to pass several 
 ravines and narrow valleys. The formation of the hills is volcanic: 
 they consisted of a solid basaltic matrix, with numerous pentagonal 
 columns of augite. Many parts of these hills are covered only w ith 
 fern ; others, especially in the ravines, are still clothed with forest, 
 which seems to have formerly covered the whole. 
 
 " On the '^3rd we continued to ascend the hilly and wooded ridge 
 which separates the Waipa from the sea-coast. From an open spot 
 I had a view of Kawia and Aotea. Albatross Point bore S. 00 W. ; 
 the south head of Kawia S. 50 W. ; Maunga-Tautari, a volcanic 
 ridge in the interior, N. 05 E. Higher up the hills become very 
 rocky and steep : the formation of basaltic and augitic rock con- 
 tinues. In some places the hills are only covered with scanty and 
 stunted trees. When we reached the top an extensive view opened 
 before us : the broad and open valley of the Waipa stretched out 
 towards the north-east, aud was bounded to the east by distant hills. 
 To the south-west the eye reached to the hilly chain of Rangitoto, 
 near Mokau, on the western coast, which bore S. 20 W. In the 
 valley of the Waipa rose an isolated conical hill, Maunga-Kaun, 
 whilst here and there a small part of the Waipa river itself was 
 visible. I had a good view of the country inland of Waiugaroa and 
 Aotea Harbours; and I observed that everywhere the coast-hills 
 descended gradually towards the interior, and that all these hills 
 were covered with forest. Only some small spots of the valley of 
 HR2
 
 351 VALLEY AND PLAINS 
 
 the Waipa were wooded. 1'iroiigia, as the hill ou which \ve stood 
 is called, seems to be the highest point of the coa.st-chaiu : it rises 
 to the height of 2428 feet, measured thermometrically. 
 
 " In the evening we arrived at the banks of the Waipa, and were 
 welcomed in the house of an Englishman, a trader and old settler. 
 The river was swollen by the late rains, and had risen about eight 
 feet above its usual level. The banks being elevated, this made no 
 difference in its breadth, which was here about fifty yards. Its 
 average depth was now from one and a half to two fathoms ; but 
 even in dry seasons a boat can go up ten or twelve miles higher 
 than this place. The valley itself has little slope, and the average 
 velocity of the river cannot be sufficient to binder boats from going 
 against the stream : its velocity per second I found to be nearly two 
 feet and a half. The banks consisted of a stiff loamy earth, with 
 layers of sand, but without any fragments of rocks. All the sur- 
 rounding country is flat, and of the most promising description for 
 the growth of grain. Our English host had a quantity of tobacco 
 hung up to dry, which he had grown here : it was of an excellent 
 quality, and the rich soil and humid climate seem to be well adapted 
 for the cultivation of this plant. 
 
 " On the 24th we crossed the Waipa in a canoe, and reached the 
 Church missionary station of Otawao. Here, for the first time, we 
 had a view of the snowy head of the Euapehu, which is about 100 
 miles distant. 
 
 " The mission-station of Otawao was established about a year 
 ago, and has already been very useful. It is situated on the banks 
 of a small tributary of the Waipa : opposite to it, on an eminence, 
 the Christian natives have constructed their pa, as at the first 
 introduction of Christianity a sort of separation always takes place 
 between the Christian converts and the Heathens, without, however, 
 materially affecting the general harmony of the tribe. 
 
 " In this neighbourhood there are several well-peopled pas. 
 
 " Not far distant rises a hilly range, Maunga-Tautari, separating 
 the valley of the Waipa from another valley more to the eastward, in 
 which three rivers flow, the Wa&ato, the Piako, and the Waiho, or 
 the river Thames.* The Waikato winds around the northern slope 
 of this range, and is joined, about 100 miles above its embouchure, 
 by the Waipa. The valley of the Waipa, which is therefore formed 
 by Maunga-Tautari and a range of hills near the western coast, 
 must be regarded as partly original volcanic table-laud, and partly 
 alluvial soil ; the surface of the latter is enriched by the forest 
 which in ancient times covered it. The groves, which are still 
 standing in many places, especially where swamps are found in the 
 depressions of the land, consist mostly of kahikatea. 
 
 " About ten Europeans are settled in the neighbourhood of 
 
 * See page 343.
 
 OF THK tt.Ul'A. 355 
 
 Otiiwao; iiii'l in numerous dispersed ami fortified \illnt> live 
 several distinct tribes, nil belonging to the Waikato nation." 
 
 From Otawao, the direction of the journey was 
 easterly, 
 
 " leaving the Wai pa river, whose source lay to the west, among 
 the mountains of llangitoto. This range of hills forms a continmi 
 tiou of the western roast-hills, and connects them with the group of 
 tlu- Ihiapehu. On the western slope of these mountains is the 
 source of the Mokau river, which falls into the sea about sixty miles 
 to the northward of Cape Egmont.* The general level of the valley 
 of the Woipa is interrupted by a few isolated pyramidical hills of a 
 volcanic origin, of which arms, consisting of tufa and puuiicestono, 
 run off in all directions, often presenting cliffy escarpments on the 
 sides." 
 
 Rounding the southern extremity of the Maunga 
 Tautari range, the travellers now entered the upper 
 part of the great Waikato plain. This country is de- 
 scribed by Dr. Dieffenbach as " singularly broken," and 
 "in the highest degree curious to the geologist;" but 
 he also considers it as unfit for present colonization. 
 In one place he says: 
 
 " On the whole, the pumicestone has not undergone sufficient 
 decay to allow the growth of anything except scanty grass." 
 
 The following extract refers to the climate of this 
 region, on the 3rd of May (answering to the 3rd of 
 November in England): 
 
 " The temperature of the air showed the difference between the 
 climate of the coast and the interior. Although rising at noon to 
 about 70, it fell in the evening to 4/>, and in the morning we. 
 found ice about half an inch thick covering the ponds and swamps, 
 and a hoar-frost whitened the plains. To the northward a thick 
 mis! indicated the bed of the Waikato, and again, at a farther dis- 
 tance, that of the river Thames. The wind during these days wa* 
 from the south-east; towards evening it subsided into a perfect 
 calm, and the landscape assumed that clear autumnal aspect which 
 is so pleasing in Europe." 
 
 For a minute description of the country between 
 this and Lake Taupo, and around the lake itself, and 
 
 * See page 280.
 
 356 WAIKATO AND WAIPA VALLEYS. 
 
 the mountain group of Tongariro and Ruapehu, the 
 reader must turn to Dr. Dieffenbach's book.* It would 
 be beyond the limits of this work to describe at length 
 a district of country which, however attractive to the 
 tourist and naturalist, on account of its hot springs and 
 other volcanic features, is too distant from the coast, 
 and too deficient in soil of the most fertile nature, to 
 be available for some time for settlement. We may, 
 however, with that author 
 
 " cast a retrospective glance over the country traversed, from the 
 mouth of the Waikato to the borders of the Taupolake. Of this the 
 valley of the Waipa forms the most important part. This valley is 
 bounded to the westward by a range of coast-hills, to the eastward 
 by the range of Maunga-Tautari. It has an average breadth of 
 about thirty miles, is even and flat in its lower part, especially vip 
 to the point at which the river Waipa joins the Waikato : higher up 
 the country is broken and undulating, covered with a vegetation of 
 fern and coarse grass, alternating with groves of the knhikatea-pine. 
 The lower part rivals in fertility the best districts in the island, the 
 valley being a volcanic table-laud with much alluvium. It has the 
 advantage of being sheltered from the gales which are so prevalent 
 on the coasts of New Zealand, and would, therefore, be particularly 
 adapted for grain, tobacco, safflower, and hops. It must, in fact, be 
 regarded as the most sheltered region in the whole country ; and if 
 the vine and mulberry will grow anywhere in New Zealand, it must 
 be here. Higher up the valley, and between the Eangitoto moun- 
 tains and Taupo, the country will be available, when the incrensin;; 
 population creates a demand for land. Even where the country is 
 pumiceous, it is covered with a coarse grass, which I feel convinced 
 would be eaten by cattle, and better sorts of grasses would soon, by 
 a little exertion, be spread over the surface. The soil near the 
 watercourses, and in the little valleys, is excellent, and would pro- 
 duce everything needed for home consumption. 
 
 " The peculiar recommendation of the Waipa valley is its easy 
 communication with the sea, as the river is navigable for sixty miles 
 above its junction with the Waikato. Of the harbours on the west 
 coast Waiugaroa is perhaps the easiest of access from this valley, 
 as there the coast-hills are lowest; but Kawia has a finer harbour, 
 and nature has pointed out that place as a most advantageous site 
 for a township. It must, moreover, not be forgotten that the valley 
 
 * Vol. 1, chapters xxiii. to xxvi. See, also, Bidwell's Rambles in 
 New Zealand. London, 1842 ; and Wakefield's Adventure in Ncio 
 Zealand, Vol. 2,
 
 COUMKY NKAK KAY ill- TIKNTV. 357 
 
 of the Wiiipa has an almost uuiutcrrni>ted watcr-coinmunication 
 with Waitematn, or Auckland. 
 
 "The natives who inhabit the NVaipa belong to the tribe of the 
 \Yaikato, and live in small but well-peopled villages. 
 
 " A great part of this country is not yet sold, but the chiefs have 
 made numerous applications to Her Majesty's government ou the 
 subject. 
 
 " The WaikatD river, although a considerable and deep stream 
 after it issues from Lake Taupo, and towards its outlet after its 
 junction with the Waipa. is of less consequence than the Waipa, as 
 in the middle part of its course the navigation with canoes or boats, 
 if not actually interrupted, is yet rendered difficult by rapids, and the 
 country through which it flows is bad above Maunga-Tautari, being 
 composed of a pumiceous or tufaceous gravel.'" 
 
 Dr. Dieftenbach also gives an excellent description 
 of the chain of lakes already referred to at page 42, of 
 the volcanic phenomena of the country in their neigh- 
 bourhood, and of the numerous native inhabitants on 
 their banks, as he made the circuit of Lake Taupo, and 
 travelled from its N.E. corner to the Bay of Plenty. 
 It is, however, necessary to remark, that he was mis- 
 taken in supposing the Manawatu and Rangitikei rivers 
 to have their sources in the Tongariro group. The 
 Manawatu rises on the E. side of the Ruahine range; 
 and the Rangitikei on the W. side of the same range, 
 or of a northern branch of it, called Kai Manawa. 
 
 We may again, however, advantageously quote our 
 author, where he emerges from 
 
 " the forest covering the hills which run along the east coast, 
 aud which separate the interior and comparatively open table-land 
 from the sea." * * " Towards noon, we emerged into open 
 l.md." * * * " A splendid and most extensive prospect here 
 hurst upon our view : the ranjje of hills which we had passed sloped 
 gntdmlly towards the east coast, spreading out into flat land near 
 tin- sea-shore. Before us was the Bay of Plenty: to judge from its 
 present appearance, it may well be said to have been prophetically 
 so culled by Captain Cook. To the northward the whole coast-line 
 towards Witianga, or Mercury Bay, presented itself, at which place 
 the coast-hills resumed bolder forms; the Mercury Islands alo were 
 visible : to the eastward was the island of Tuhua, or Mayor's Island, 
 and several smaller rocky islets. More to the southward was I'uhia i- 
 Wukari, or White Island, emitting from time to time volumes cf
 
 358 TAURANGA HARBOUR. 
 
 white smoke ; and to the southward our eyes followed part of the 
 coast, which retained its smooth outlines- 
 
 " Before we arrived at the perfectly even laud nearest the coast, 
 we passed several swampy valleys of small extent, formed by tbe 
 ramifications of the hills ; and at last we followed the narrow crest of 
 one of these ramifications down to the plain. The vegetation every- 
 where indicated the richest soil, and the most prominent plants were 
 fern, flax, and veronica. Towards sunset, after a very fatiguing 
 journey, we approached the homely-looking buildings of the Church 
 Mission-station, surrounded with gardens, and a planted shrubbery 
 of acacias, ricinus, and peaches, which was almost the only vegeta- 
 tion in the shape of trees which we saw, as for miles around the 
 station there is no wood. 
 
 " The hills which I passed from Roto-rua* to Tauranga are 
 tufaceous ; they are of moderate height and undulating, and, although 
 their surface is wooded, the depth of the vegetable soil and the 
 tufaceous substratum leaves no doubt in my mind that the whole 
 coast district, down to and even beyond Hawke's Bay, will in future 
 times form a very rich country; and that the natural outlet of its 
 produce, from its easy communication with the valley of the Waibo, 
 or Thames, will be the Gulf of Hauraki. 
 
 " Tauranga has only been visited by small vessels of about two 
 hundred tons. Although over the bar there are four fathoms water, 
 the channel is very narrow, not being more than one hundred yards 
 in breadth ; and from its bending at a sharp angle, large craft would 
 have great difficulty in entering it. Its southern headland is formed 
 by a solitary conical hill, Maunga-nui, of about five hundred feet in 
 height, which is connected by low land with the main. It consists 
 of basaltic lava, large blocks of which lie on the sides and are 
 strewed around its base. The northern head of Tauranga spreads 
 out into low and level land; and some islands of considerable 
 dimensions, and of the same structure and configuration as the 
 mainland, are separated from it by broad channels of the sea. 
 Although at present the principal anchorage for vessels is in the 
 inner harbour, not far from the mission-station, I am inclined to 
 think that the islands just mentioned might offer safe places for 
 anchoring, even for larger vessels. 
 
 " The coast at Tauranga and on those islands is from forty to 
 eighty feet above the level of the sea, and in the cliffs thus formed 
 the geological formation is a yellow loam, surmounted in many 
 places by beds of peat, containing a great quantity of undecayed 
 wood, and averaging between four and six feet in breadth : the 
 upper layer is a yellowish earth, or decayed pumiceous matter. The 
 lignite, occurring in large quantities, must be of great importance 
 to Tauranga, as there is no other fuel for several miles around. 
 
 * The largest and most important of tbe lakes, next after Taupo.
 
 BAY OF PLENTY. 359 
 
 Dr. Dieffenbach says that Puhia-i-Wakari, or White 
 Island, 
 
 " is a low island, still iu volcanic activity, and produces a great 
 quantity of sulphur. Already several cargoes of this mineral have 
 beeu brought to Europe, There it has been sold for 6/. per ton. 
 The sulphur is very pure, containing 90 per cent." 
 
 The natives inhabiting the shores of the Bay of 
 Plenty are very numerous, and consist of two tribes, 
 which are constantly at war with one another, or with 
 the natives inhabiting the country of the lakes. There 
 are Church of England mission-stations at Rotorua, 
 Tauranga, and one or two other places in the Bay of 
 Plenty, Hicks's Bay, at the East Cape, Poverty Bay, 
 and Hawke's Bay. The native population is very 
 great all along that coast, as far as the mouth of the 
 Hauriri, (see page 89.) There are several roadsteads, 
 and harbours for small craft, along the same coast; but 
 there is no harbour available for large vessels in all 
 weathers, between Mercury Bay and Wellington. 
 
 " Little of the land at Tauranga has been sold, with the exception 
 of one piece to the Church missionaries, which is called Te Papa 
 (the flat). The natives are not inclined to sell any land, and their 
 number is sufficiently large to enable them to occupy and cultivate 
 their beautiful district themselves, if a durable peace were established 
 among the different tribes." 
 
 The range of coast-hills already described, at page 
 342, separates the valley of the Waiho, or Thames, 
 from the east coast. Dr. Dieffenbach says he found 
 the ascent very gradual. He continues : 
 
 " I found that these coast-hills were comparatively flat on the 
 top, while on their western slope, where they bound the valley of 
 the Waiho, they terminated abruptly, like an artificial embankment 
 of the table-land of the Thames. Before we descended into the 
 valley we followed for awhile a rivulet about thirty yards in breadth, 
 which takes its rise in the coast-hills, and then falls over their 
 almost perpendicular western slope from a height of at least eight 
 hundred feet, forming a magnificent cascade. 
 
 " The Maunga-'f autari bore S. :>"' \S*. from this point. 
 
 " We soon reached the banks of the Waiho, which flows at a 
 distance of about two miles from the hills in a S.E. to N.W. course ; 
 and crossed it to its left shore, its depth being about six feet iu tie
 
 3(50 VALLEY OF 
 
 middle channel, and its current moderately rapid. Appearances 
 indicated that the water was at its average height, and we had not 
 had much rain during the last few days. Its width was about that 
 of the Thames at Richmond, and on its hanks strata of gravel were 
 exposed more or less decayed, and either pumiceous or tufaceous. 
 The point at which we crossed was about fifty miles from that nt 
 which the river falls into the Gulf of Hauraki. The vegetation con- 
 sisted of fern, Dracaena australis, Leptospermum, with some rushes ; 
 here and there also a little grass. Although the soil was not allu- 
 vial, nor apparently very fertile, yet it seemed to he capable of con- 
 siderable improvement by judicious cultivation. We halted here for 
 the night, although fire-wood was rather scarce; the manuka shrubs, 
 however, served us for fuel." 
 
 There are two large native villages near this spot, 
 Matamata and Tapiri, containing a total population of 
 1500, part of whom are heathens, part Eoman-catholic 
 converts, and part Protestant. 
 
 " There was formerly a mission-station at Matamata, and the 
 house, although half in ruins, is still standing; in the garden 
 European fruit-trees, roses, asparagus, and other vegetables, have 
 run wild, and the strawberry is spreading over the country. The 
 station was deserted by the missionary in consequence of a mis- 
 understanding between him and the natives. 
 
 *** 
 
 " At Matamata the soil is very fertile, in consequence of the 
 woods not having yet been destroyed. The plain is here well 
 adapted for the cultivation of grain. 
 
 " The Piako river flows through the same valley, or, to speak 
 more correctly, through the same low table-land, as the Waiho, or 
 Thames. This table-land is between twenty and thirty miles broad, 
 and is bounded to the eastward by the basaltic coast-hills already 
 mentioned, which are called the Aroha (Love) Mountains, and do 
 not exceed 1500 feet in height, and to the northward extend in an 
 uninterrupted chain to Cape Colville. To the southward the valley 
 continues to the neighbourhood of Eotorua, and the coast-hills are 
 there connected with the Horo-Horo Mountains, in which the river 
 Thames has its source. Throughout their extent these mountains 
 are abruptly separated from the plain, and, in fact, bound it like an 
 artificial wall. To the westward the valley of. the Thames, or rather 
 that part of the interior table-land which we call by that name, is 
 connected with the table-land or valley of the Waipa and Waikato, 
 and is bounded by the basaltic eoast-ran;*e near the western cosist. 
 There is, however, a separation caused by the Mannga-Tantari 
 Hills. The lower part of the valley of the Thames is separated 
 from the Waikato by hills which run towards the Gulf of Hauniki.
 
 VALLEY* OF THE THAMES. 361 
 
 Near the eastern slope of these hills flows the river Piako; at the 
 western slope of the eastern coast-hills flows the Waiho: both are 
 in the same valley, niul discharge themselves into the gulf (of 
 Haiiniki) close together. The length of this table-laud is nearly 
 one hundred miles. 
 
 " The Waiho ahout forty miles from its embouchure is still a 
 considerable stream, which would admit small steamers ; the Piako 
 is navigable for boats. 
 
 " The mountains which bound this valley are generally wooded, 
 especially those to the eastward, from which the Waiho receives 
 several tributaries of sufficient size to be useful for floating timber 
 down from the hills. The valley itself is free of wood, except near 
 the banks of rivers, where the forest principally consists of the 
 kahikatea-pine. We passed several large raupo (typha) swamps, 
 and crossed a tributary of the Piako, which was swollen by the late 
 rains. 
 
 " The next day, in travelling down the valley, we passed many 
 swamps, but a perfect drainage of them might be easily effected. 
 The soil was better, and here and there it was covered with grass. 
 Towards evening we reached the Piako river, which is about forty 
 yards broad, and is deep and rapid. 
 
 " On the 28th we followed the right bank of the Piako, and came 
 towards noon to two houses which had been built by the natives for 
 a European who had purchased a large district of laud from them. 
 The Piako here closely approached the western hills. A little 
 lower down was a small settlement, from which the natives soon 
 brought a canoe, and conveyed us rapidly down the river, the banks 
 of which were very beautiful. The river, being much swollen, 
 reached at some points nearly to the foot of the banks, but in most 
 places they appeared to be above the highest floods. They were 
 slightly wooded, and patches of forest alternated with open spaces 
 covered with a soft grass. 
 
 " To the westward the Piako was here closely bounded by the 
 hills, which consist mostly of an amygdaloidnl basalt, having on 
 their surface a white exhausted clay. Wood is only found in some 
 small valleys and ravines. Amongst the trees are kauri-trees, but 
 these are rather scarce. From the top of these hills an extensive 
 view opens towards the western coast, the lower part of the river 
 Wuikalo, and the Gulf of Hanraki, the different islands in which me 
 easily discerned. 
 
 " The Piako is a river of inconsiderable length, and comes from n 
 hill in the neighbourhood of Maunga-Tautari, called Maunga- 
 Kaua. 
 
 "The shores of the Pial:o were grown over with brushwood, and 
 
 the lower we descended the more we found the land on both sides 
 
 overflowed, so th.it we actually sailed over what is in summer u 
 
 s\viimp of raupo and flux. The tups of both plants reached above 
 
 I I
 
 362 CLIMATE OF AUCKLAND. 
 
 the surface of the water. As the weather again became squally, our 
 natives did not venture to leave the river, and we pitched our tents 
 on some elevated ground, but were surrounded on all sides by the 
 low swampy delta, intersected by deep arms of the river, in which 
 the water was black. We started, however, early the next morning, 
 with the ebb-tide, and in the afternoon reached in safety the mis- 
 sion-station at Puriri, on the right shore of the Waiho, and near its 
 mouth." 
 
 On the east coast, between Tauranga and Cape 
 'Colville, and nearly due east of Coromandel Harbour, 
 is a fine harbour called Mercury Bay, which was much 
 frequented by Captain Cook, and has been since visited 
 by store-ships of the navy, to procure cargoes of spars. 
 H.M.S. Buffalo, however, dragged from her anchors, 
 and was totally wrecked on the shores of this bay: the 
 only anchorage with deep water enough for ships of 
 large burthen being somewhat exposed to the violent 
 easterly gales which occasionally take place. A creek 
 of this harbour was called Oyster Cove by Cook, on 
 account of the abundance of that fish found there. The 
 land is steep, too, as the shores of the bay are formed 
 by the eastern spurs of the same ridge whose western 
 spurs abut on Coromandel Harbour. 
 
 With respect to the Climate of Auckland, Dr. Dief- 
 fenbach supplies a Meteorological Table (given on the 
 opposite page) kept at Auckland, from 16th September, 
 1840, to 16th September, 1841; and he makes upon 
 it the following remarks: 
 
 " In Auckland easterly gales generally occur at the full and change 
 of the moon, and continue for two and sometimes three days. In 
 the winter months they sweep with great violence over the exposed 
 situation of Auckland. From the east the wind veers to the west 
 ward, and soon moderates. The most settled weather is with 
 southerly winds. 
 
 " Rains are very frequent, especially in the winter season. I have 
 not the necessary data for comparing the quantity of rain with that 
 in Cook's Strait, hut from the scanty observations at my command I 
 am induced to believe that rains are more frequent here than on 
 other parts of the coast, which may perhaps result from the little dis- 
 tance between the western and eastern coasts. Frosts are rare in 
 Auckland ; in fact the thermometer never stood lower thnn 3C Fah-
 
 Meteorological Table, kept at Auckland, from 16th. September, 1810, 
 to 16// September, 1841. 
 
 Mulilli .. 
 
 Prevailing 
 Winds. 
 
 Average Height of 
 Fahren. Thennom. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 Ivrn. 
 
 torn 
 
 Sven. 
 
 Mi: 
 
 
 l'i--. 
 
 IK.-. 
 
 1',.-. 
 
 
 Sept. 
 
 S.-Westerly. 
 
 56' 
 
 59 
 
 55 
 
 <*ive days squally and showery weather. 
 
 latte r 
 
 
 
 
 
 Two days stormy, with heavy rain from- 
 
 part 
 
 
 
 
 
 the eastward. Eight days fine weather. 
 
 Oct.' 
 
 S.-Westerly. 
 
 56 
 
 63 
 
 54 
 
 Nineteen days fine weather. Three days 
 
 
 
 57 
 
 66 
 
 56 
 
 stormy, with ram from the eastward. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Nine days gale; squalls and heavy 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 rain from the westward. 
 
 NOT. 
 
 S.-Westerly. 
 
 57 
 
 63 
 
 h3 
 
 Eighteen days fine weather. Two days 
 
 
 
 61 
 
 66 
 
 53 
 
 stormy, with ram from the eastward. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Ten days fresh gales, squalls, and 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 showery weather from the westward. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 Easterly. 
 
 63 
 
 69 
 
 58 
 
 Two days strong breezes and rain. The 
 
 
 
 66 
 
 72 
 
 60 
 
 rest of the month very fine weather, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 with regular land and sea breezes; the 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 sea-breeze setting in from the north- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 east in the forenoon, and veering to 
 
 l-li : 
 
 
 
 
 
 the southward hi the evening. 
 
 Jan. 
 
 First part 
 
 70 
 
 75 
 
 64 
 
 Ten days fresh breezes, squalls, and 
 
 
 N.-Easterly, 
 
 70 
 
 76 
 
 61 
 
 showers. The rest of the month light 
 
 
 latter part 
 
 
 
 
 winds, sea and land breezes, and very 
 
 
 Southerly. 
 
 
 
 
 :".:.e '< o^tht. r. 
 
 Feb. 
 
 Southerly 
 
 68 
 
 73 
 
 63 
 
 Eight days stormy, with rain ; the rest 
 
 
 and 
 
 69 
 
 74 
 
 59 
 
 of the month light winds and fine 
 
 
 .-\\\'Stcriv 
 
 
 
 
 weather. 
 
 Mar. 
 
 Easterly. 
 
 67 
 
 70 
 
 59 
 
 Ten days stormy, with rain ; the rest of 
 
 
 
 65 
 
 69 
 
 61 
 
 the month brisk breezes and fine 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 weather. 
 
 April 
 
 First part 
 Easterly, 
 
 59 
 54 
 
 68 
 63 
 
 56 
 54 
 
 Two days heavy gale from the eastward, 
 and much rain. Seven days squallv 
 
 
 latter part 
 
 
 
 
 and showery. The rest of the month 
 
 
 W.8.W. 
 
 
 
 
 fine weather. 
 
 May 
 
 S.-Westerly. 
 
 55 
 50 
 
 63 
 61 
 
 56 
 59 
 
 Three days easterly gale, and heavy 
 rain. The remainder of the month 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 brisk westerly breezes and frequent 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 showers. 
 
 June 
 
 S.-Westerly. 
 
 48 
 
 56 
 
 50 
 
 One day easterly gale and heavy rain. 
 
 
 
 50 
 
 58 
 
 51 
 
 Nine days fine weather. The remain- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 der of the month strong breezes, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 squalls, and heavy showers from the 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 westward. 
 
 July 
 
 S.-Westerly 
 
 46 
 
 47 
 
 56 
 56 
 
 46 
 46 
 
 Seren days fine weather. Five days 
 stormy and rainy from the eastward 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 and south-east. The rest of the 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 month strong breezes, squalls, and 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ram from the westward. 
 
 Aug. 
 
 First part 
 N.-Easterly 
 
 49 
 50 
 
 59 
 58 
 
 55 
 55 
 
 Three days stormy and rainy from the 
 north-east. Seven days westerly gales, 
 
 
 latter part 
 
 v -\\\-tt. .-iy 
 
 
 
 
 squalls, and showers. The rest of the 
 month brisk breezes and fine weather. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 On the night of the 20th, the heaviest 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 thunder-storm that bad been expe- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 rienced since the formation of the 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Settlement. 
 
 Sept. 
 
 N.-Easterty 
 
 51 
 
 58 
 
 50 
 
 First five days light showers and fine 
 
 first 
 
 Westeriy. 
 
 
 
 
 weather ; three days heavy gale, and 
 
 part. 
 
 
 
 
 
 much rain. Six days light winds, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 and fine, with occasional showers. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Two days strong north-easterly 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 breeze, ending with much rain.
 
 304 
 
 CLIMATE OF AUCKLAND. 
 
 renheit. The surface of the laud being comparatively level, no im- 
 pediment is given to the easterly and westerly breezes ; the summer 
 heat is therefore very moderate, and the thermometer only once rose 
 as high as 84. Many of the valleys in the neighbourhood of the 
 town, which are sheltered from the gales, enjoy a mild and agreeable 
 climate. 
 
 "Earthquakes, which are sometimes felt in other parts of the 
 island, have not been experienced in the Hauraki Gulf by the 
 European settlers, nor could I learn from the natives whom I 
 questioned on the subject that there existed any tradition of their 
 having occurred in this region." 
 
 The following is an extract on this subject from the 
 New Zealander of September 8, 1847: 
 
 " We give below a tabular view of the temperature of the air, &c., 
 during the three winter mouths, from observations made at the office 
 of the Surveyor-General, and by a gentleman resident in the town: 
 
 
 
 
 0> 
 
 | 
 
 
 
 rr. 
 
 
 
 d 
 
 Winter 
 
 S 
 
 Hi 
 
 "&> 
 
 & 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 "a " 
 
 M 
 
 mouths. 
 
 H 
 
 B 
 
 
 in 
 
 *j 
 
 
 
 E? 
 
 o> 
 
 a "fc 
 
 > 
 
 
 
 
 d 
 
 | 
 
 to 
 
 1 
 
 a 
 
 o 
 
 > 
 
 
 
 
 S 
 
 a 
 
 s 
 
 S 
 
 o 
 i-l 
 
 M 
 
 en 
 
 Q 
 
 2 
 
 June 
 
 50 
 
 59 
 
 42 
 
 63 
 
 39 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 15 
 
 6-23 
 
 July 
 
 49 
 
 ftf 
 
 42 
 
 00 
 
 36 
 
 7 
 
 17 
 
 7 
 
 7-54 
 
 August ..." 
 
 51 
 
 60 
 
 43 
 
 64 
 
 39 
 
 3 
 
 11 
 
 17 
 
 2-08 
 
 3 Winter M s 
 
 50 
 
 58 
 
 42-3 
 
 04 
 
 36 
 
 IB 
 
 38 
 
 39 
 
 10-45 
 
 "The month of July has been unusually wet and boisterous: 
 there were six heavy gales of wind, and much otherwise tempestuous 
 weather, in its course. The winds, however, followed, during the 
 rest of the winter, their usual cycle from E. to S., except during the 
 mouth of August, when there was an unusual prevalence of E. and 
 S.E. winds. 
 
 " Notwithstanding, such is the geuial nature of our climate that 
 vegetation has been scarce checked : almond trees flowered in the 
 latter end of July,* and set their fruit in August ; and the fruit of 
 the loquat, or Japan medlar, is ripening in a garden in the town. 
 
 * This was also the case at Nelson in the same winter.
 
 NATURAL PRODUCTION v 365 
 
 MI a\\ berries are also ripe; and viues shot in August, and showed 
 their flower-buds in warm situaiio:. 
 
 The soil of the districts round Auckland has been 
 amply described by Dr. DiefFenbach, in the passages 
 above extracted. This author is confirmed by all 
 persons who have travelled in that part of the country, 
 in his frequent statements, that the country on which 
 the Kauri pine has once grown is quite unfit for culti- 
 vation. It appears to be generally a cold whitish clay, 
 on which nothing will grow but manuka and stunted 
 fern. 
 
 The following are the points in which the Natural 
 Productions of this district differ from those enumerated 
 in former chapters: 
 
 I. VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. 
 Indigenous. 
 
 Kauri. (Dammara Australis.) This magnificent tree, which 
 grows to a very great size, and furnishes most valuable spars even 
 to the British navy, only grows in that part of the North Island 
 which lies north of 37 3(X S. latitude. Indeed, on the western 
 coast its southern boundary is the north shore of Manukao harbour, 
 there being only a dozen or so of stunted individuals at Kawia. 
 Dr. Dieffeubach says : 
 
 ' It generally grows in the neighbourhood of the sea-coast, but 
 not in parts exposed to the spray, and on the sides of ravines ; it is, 
 in fact, entirely confined to hilly situations. Large districts within 
 the above-mentioned boundaries have formerly been covered with 
 kauri-forest, but are now bare ; and its destruction, through waste 
 and negligence, is now going on in other districts. There is no 
 proof that the kauri ever grew to the southward of its present 
 boundaries, although conflagrations of forest have taken place 
 throughout the island. 
 
 "The kauri is the only coue-bearing pine in New Zealand; all 
 the others bear berries, and are therefore to be classed amongst the 
 very numerous family of the Podocarpi, or Taxideae. 
 
 * See also N. Z. Journal of Nov. 7, 1846, No. 180, p. 283, fora 
 brief account of the weather at Auckland from January, lb4I, to 
 March, IS-iO.
 
 366 VEGETABLE AND 
 
 " Tlie resiu which the tree exudates is very hard, aud forms largo 
 solid masses at the base of the tree. It is generally of a wbilish 
 colour, but, through age, and as it would seem by exposure to the 
 sea-water, it assumes the gold-yellow colour of amber, becomes 
 transparent, and very closely resembles that substance." 
 
 For some time, it was supposed that this resin, or gum, of which 
 plenty is found in the ground even long after the forest has dis- 
 appeared, would furnish a valuable article of export : but it has not 
 hitherto repaid in England even the cost of its collection in the 
 Colony. The Americans, however, appear to find some use for it, 
 with which we are not acquainted; for sometimes traders of that 
 nation buy considerable quantities at remunerating prices. 
 
 The trees sometimes grow to the height of 00 feet before any 
 branches shoot out. Besides its value for spare, the timber is useful 
 for the same purposes as that of the pines Nos. 1, 2, and 3 of the 
 list at page 140. 
 
 Young specimens of this tree may be seen growing at Messrs. 
 Knight and Perry's Exotic Nursery, King's Eoad West, Chelsea. 
 
 Puriri. ( Vitcx littoralis.) This tree is also peculiar to the 
 Northern districts, or at least very scarce further South. It is thus 
 described in the Appendix to Annals of the Diocese of New Zea- 
 land : " This tree, from its hardness and durability, has been 
 denominated the New Zealand Oak. The wood is of a dark brown 
 colour, close in the grain, aud takes a good polish: it splits freely, 
 aud works well, and does not injure from exposure to damp, twenty 
 years' experience having proved that in that time it will not rot, 
 though in a wet soil under the ground. For ship-building, it is 
 (like the Teak, which belongs to the same Order,) a most valuable 
 wood; for the injury which it has received from being perforated in 
 various places by a large grub, peculiar to the tree, does not 
 essentially diminish its worth for the timbers of ships, or for the 
 knees of boats. It grows from 15 to 30 feet without a branch, and 
 varies from 12 to 20 feet in circumference." 
 
 Pohutukaua. (Metrosideros tomentosa.) This is another 
 variety of the Rata (No. 10, p. 142). Again quoting from the same 
 source: "An ordinary-sized tree, inhabiting usually the immediate 
 sea shore, where it is readily distinguished among other plants by 
 the brilliancy and abundance of its crimson flowers, with which are 
 often mingled those of the Loranthus tctrapctalus, a parasitical 
 plant, which attaches itself to the tree. The wood of this tree is 
 exceedingly hard, close-grained, and heavy, and is equally valuable 
 for ship-building, aud in the manufacture of implements of hus- 
 bandry. It usually enlivens the shores of the northern island with 
 its blossoms in December." 
 
 Di/c-wonds. The same work mentions the following, only the 
 two first of which are known to possess the quality, but all of which; 
 are abundant, iu the Southern districts ;
 
 MINERAL PRODUCTIONS. 367 
 
 - iunekaha. ] 
 Phyliocliitlus trtchomanoides..; \ 
 Hi nan + 
 
 Yields a black or brown dye from 
 the wood and bark. 
 Yields a black dye from wood and 
 ' bark. 
 
 Ditto. ditto. 
 
 1 A blue black dye from wood and 
 I bark. 
 
 I Ditto. ditto. 
 [ A blue dye from wood and bark." 
 
 Tupakihi.J 
 
 Tuhuhi. 
 Giialtheria mtttpodti 
 
 Mako. 
 
 
 II. MINERAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 Copper is fonnd and worked on tbe Great Barrier Island, by a 
 Company formed iu Sydney. The ore is said to be very rich, and 
 procured at comparatively little expense. No authentic accounts, 
 however, bf this mine have yet been published. 
 
 At Hicks's Bay, near tLe East Coast, veins of this mineral are 
 also said to have been discovered. 
 
 Tin. Governor Fitzroy wrote officially, in 1844, that this mineral 
 had been found " in the immediate neighbourhood of Auckland, 
 close to the sea" (see p. 33) : but since that time, no further 
 accounts of such a discovery have been published. 
 
 Sulphur. Already mentioned as abundant on White Island in 
 the Bay of Plenty (page 359). It might be collected, also, in great 
 quantities at many spots in the neighbourhood of the hot lakes and 
 springs in the interior. 
 
 Mamjnnvse is mentioned in many letters and publications as an 
 article of export ; but without specifying the locality in which it 
 exists. 
 
 Laud has been alienated to private individuals in tbe 
 Auckland district by Crown Grants founded on three 
 kiuds of claims: 1. Lands claimed to have been pur- 
 chased from the natives previous to the establishment 
 of a British Government in New Zealand. 2. Lands 
 claimed to have been purchased from the natives 
 during the time when Governor Fitzroy waived the 
 right of pre-emption secured to the Crown by the 
 Treaty of Waitangi, on which that establishment of the 
 
 See p. 143. t See p. 142. 
 
 J Called Tutu in the South; see p. 14,8.
 
 36*8 DISTRIBUTION OF LAND 
 
 British Government was founded, and in infringement 
 of Acts of Parliament, allowed the Crown Lands to be 
 alienated for sums far below the required minimum 
 price of l per acre. 3. Lands purchased by auction 
 according to Act of Parliament. Such alienation in 
 all three cases furnished some revenue to the Govern- 
 ment. Under the first head, fees were collected, by 
 the Commissioners appointed to investigate these 
 claims, on the examination and decision of each claim; 
 and the sums thus accruing were carried to the general 
 revenue of the Local Government. Under the second 
 head, fees were payable to the Crown, at rates, for one 
 portion of the land of 10s., for another of Id., per acre. 
 Under the third head, the land was sold by public 
 auction,* the minimum upset price being in no case 
 less than l per acre. In both these cases the proceeds 
 were applied, in certain proportions, to Surveys, Public 
 Works, and Immigration. 
 
 It is difficult to gather any complete account of the 
 whole quantity of land thus alienated, and of the whole 
 revenue thus obtained; but the following extracts from 
 the Reports of the Colonial Land and Emigration 
 Commissioners during the last few years, serve to 
 furnish some information on the subject. 
 
 "With regard to New Zealand, the most important subject 
 connected with the settlement of its lands, and indeed with its 
 future prosperity, is the adjudication of the claims of parties pro- 
 fessing to have acquired land in the islands before they became a 
 Colony of this country. A Commissioner for the adjustment of these 
 claims was sent from this country in the mouth of May, 18A1, but 
 as yet a report of his proceedings has not been received. The 
 principles on which these claims should be adjusted were first 
 settled by an Act of the Governor and Council of New South Wales, 
 passed in August, 1 840, which was afterwards replaced by an Act 
 passed in New Zealand itself, embodying almost all the same 
 provisions. The Governor has since reported his intention to 
 
 * Some exceptions were made in favour of Government Officers, 
 who were allowed to purchase previously-selected allotments to a 
 certain amount each, at the average price afterwards paid for the sur- 
 rounding land at the public sale. See Par. Papers, Colonial 
 Land and Emigration Commission, Zlth August, 1843, 631, p. 20.
 
 IX AUCKLAND DISTRICT. 369 
 
 introduce a new Bill on the subject, but it has not ret reached this 
 country. In the meantime, two towns have been occupied and laid 
 out bj the Governor, one called Russell, on the Bay of Islands, and 
 the other Auckland, situated in a more central position in the 
 Northern Island, and which is to be the Capital of the Colony. 
 Returns have been received of the first land sale at Auckland, from 
 which it appears, that no less a sum was realised than 24/27 ">/. for 
 49 allotments, containing only 44 acres, being at the average of 
 5-V2/. per acre." Par. Papers, Colonial Land and Emigration, 
 1-2/A August, 1*4:2, 567, pp. 0, 10. 
 
 " No further sales of Government lands to individuals have yet 
 been reported since those returned in 1841 ; viz. : 
 
 Acres. Purchase-moner. ?%& 
 
 April, 1841 . 44 38J . J624,'27o 17 9 . 548 14 4 
 (chiefly Town Lots.) Exclusive of a balance 
 
 of4995/. 8*. Irf., to be 
 paid in Sydney, and a 
 remission of 200/. to a 
 naval officer. 
 
 September, 1S41 . 560 2 "2 . 4501 14 10 . 807 
 (chiefly Suburban Lots.) 
 
 " There is reason, however, to believe that additional sales to the 
 extent of 10,000/. took place during 1>42. 
 
 bject can be more important to the satisfactory progress of 
 this colony than an early disposal of the claims of the original 
 settlers to land. We are glad therefore to see that, after an 
 interval during which no progress had been made, 1 04 claims were 
 reported in October, 1S42, to be determined, and that active mea- 
 sures have since been adopted for continuing the settlement of 
 claims. Those first mentioned comprised 42,382 acres, awarded at 
 rates varying chiefly from 5s. to 20s. an acre, and at the general 
 aTerage for the whole of 6s. 3rf. per acre."* Ibid., 24/A August, 
 
 21, p. 10. 
 
 " Three vessels were sent out under our direct superintendence 
 :. taking 779 passengers. The reports received up to the 
 present lime notify the arrival of two of these vessels. There were 
 37 deaths on the voyage, chiefly, it would appear, of young children, 
 amounting to a rate of 04 per cent, on the whole number of 
 passenger?. This rate was much higher than in the Van Piemen's 
 Land ships ; and we should ascribe the difference in great measure 
 to the circumstance that the people were drawn from parts of Scot- 
 land where distress had been prevalent, and in some degree also to 
 the lesser experience at the ontports, and the difficulty of an equally 
 effective superintendence at so great a distance from London. 
 
 * Calculated on the payment made to the natives, as proved 
 before the Commissioners of Land Chums.
 
 370 
 
 DISTRIBUTION OF LAND 
 
 " Ninety-two boys selected from tbe establishment at Parkburst 
 have been sent to New Zealand. We made arrangements for their 
 passage, and they sailed from Cowes on the 'Jrd June, 1842, in the 
 ship ' St. George.' In a despatch of the 2nd November, 1H-CJ. the 
 acting Governor has reported their arrival ; he states that he has 
 taken steps with a view of distributing them as apprentices among 
 settlers, whose character entitles them to the confidence of the 
 Government, and that a guardian will be appointed to visit the boys 
 from time to time, and watch over their interests."* Ibid., p. 22. 
 
 "At the date of our last Eeport no complete accounts had been 
 received of the amounts realised by sales of the public lands in each 
 year. We are now enabled, by later returns from the colony to 
 supply fuller information on this head. In 1841 the receipts were 
 shown in our former Report to amount to 28,777/. The subsequent 
 sales have been as follows : 
 
 Nature of Lot. 
 
 1842. 
 
 First Quarter of 1843. 
 
 Extent. 
 
 Amount. 
 
 Average 
 per Acre. 
 
 Extent. 
 
 Amount. 
 
 Average 
 per Acre. 
 
 Town lots 
 
 A. . F. 
 
 14 2 G 
 
 s. d. 
 3209 1 1 
 
 s.d. 
 213 8 8 
 
 A.K. P. 
 
 2 2 24 
 
 s. d. 
 309 
 
 s. d. 
 116 12 1 
 
 Suburban lots 
 
 601 1 4 
 
 3138 19 11 
 
 11 16 7 
 
 157 2 29 
 
 379 3 6 
 
 2 10 1 
 
 Country lots . 
 Total . . . 
 
 3G28 22 
 
 3660 19 9 
 
 1 3 2 
 
 159 2 15 
 
 180 9 10 
 
 1 2 8 
 
 1243 3 32 
 
 10,009 9 
 
 
 
 319 3 28 
 
 8G8 13 4 
 
 
 
 * This experiment failed signally. The following extract de- 
 scribes its result: "Ninety-one juvenile delinquents from the 
 seminary at Parkhurst, in the Isle of Wight, sent out by the 
 Government, had arrived at the capital. Some of these were to be 
 liberated at once ; others were to be bound to a certain term of 
 apprenticeship. It was not long before these ingenuous youths 
 showed their skill as instructors of the natives. I have heard it 
 more than once described, by visitors from Auckland, that there 
 were known places of rendezvous outside the town, where the boys 
 used to meet the natives coming into town to trade at the stores, 
 and teach them how to pilfer with secresy and comfort. A meeting 
 was held at night, as the natives returned to their settlements, for 
 the division of booty ; and the Maori, unable to keep the secret any 
 longer, bitterly complained that the young thieves invariably 
 managed to cheat or rob them of all that they had stolen on joint 
 account. The natives have probably become weary of getting so 
 small a share of their own plunder ; as some of the Parkhurst seed- 
 lings have lately been caught breaking into the houses of the 
 settlers, independently of their native allies." Wakcfteltfs ' Adven- 
 ture in New Zealand] vol. ii., p. 315.
 
 IN AUCKLAND DISTRICT. 
 
 371 
 
 " The extent of land occupied under license at the close of 1842 
 was nine acres. During the year one lease only, of a small part of 
 mi ncre, was granted. 
 
 " The number of acres surveyed in the year was 17,1 04. The 
 surveyor- general was unable to state the exact average cost per acre. 
 ******* 
 
 " On the important subject of completing the settlement of the 
 land claims, we ore glad to see that the Commissioners of Claims 
 looked to being able to reach an early termination. By a Report 
 from them, forwarded by the Governor in June last, it appeared 
 that, of 103? claims referred to the Commissioners, 554 had been 
 reported on up to the 31st of May, 1843 ; 304 were iu course of 
 iuvestigatiou, and expected to he decided by the end of November, 
 and the remaining 179 the Commissioners expected would be easily 
 
 examined and reported on by the ensuing summer. 
 
 * * *"* * * * 
 
 " In our last Report we had occasion to notice the arrival of two 
 out of three ships despatched by us with emigrants in 1842, being 
 those which .sailed from Scotland. We are now able to state that 
 the third of them also, the ' Westminster,' which sailed from Eng- 
 land, has been reported; .aud we are happy to find that of 21* 
 persons on board, only one adult and two children died, and that the 
 t'liiitfrants \vere described by the immigration agent as extremely 
 well suited to the wants of the colony." Ibid., '2ntl April, 1844, 
 178, pp. G, 7. 
 
 " The total amount realised from sales of lands between the '22nd 
 November, 1842, and 30th September, 1843, was 39287. ICs. 10rf. 
 We regret to state that the land returns from this colony are 
 unavoidably incomplete, and supply very little information, owing 
 to a fire that destroyed the public offices in which the necessary 
 documents to make up these returns were consumed." Ibid., 20/A 
 .ir.ircl,, 1^4.% [617] p.G. 
 
 " The laud sales in 1842 were given in the General Report of 
 1844. The following statement shows their amount in ltS4;j, the 
 last year for which returns have been received^: 
 
 Nature of Lot. 
 
 Extent. 
 
 Average Price 
 per Acre. 
 
 Amount realisfil, 
 calculated from 
 preceding Columns. 
 
 Town lots 
 Suburban lots. 
 Country lots... 
 
 Total 
 
 A. R. P. 
 
 2 :! '.'I 
 .">1 
 2( Hi I (i n 
 
 s. d. 
 llf. 8 
 2 2 3 
 1 :}" 
 
 a. d. 
 \:\ 11 
 
 <;i:> c 10$ 
 
 MMO 3 (i 
 
 2387 3 24 
 
 ... 
 
 3072 4 3
 
 872 DISTRIBUTION OF LAND 
 
 " Three licences to cut and saw timber were granted in 184:1, tlie 
 rent received being 157. The number of acres surveyed in 1843 
 was 67,221, the average cost being about 11(/. per acre. The 
 estimated amount of waste land belonging to the Crown, available 
 for settlement, as stated by the Surveyor-General, at the close of 
 1843, was 182,054 acres. 
 
 " It may he convenient to supply a brief summary of the informa- 
 tion relating to the practical working of the Land Regulations 
 issued by the late Governor, to which we referred in the last 
 General Report. 
 
 "On the Gth December, 1844, there were 34 deeds of grant, 
 comprising in all 17,352 acres, lying at Auckland ready for delivery 
 to the respective grantees, and 5 deeds, comprising l")93j acres, 
 had already been issued. 
 
 " The following lands had been disposed of in exchange for other 
 land in remote parts of the colony, the claims to which had been 
 confirmed : In the town of Auckland, 13 exchanges, the quantity 
 given being about 8| acres ; in the suburbs, seven exchanges, 
 quantity given 172 acres; in the parish of Karaka, two exchanges, 
 quantity 570 acres ; and in the parish of Titirangi, seven exchanges, 
 quantity 523 acres, showing that in all 20 exchanges had been 
 made, and that the quantity of land thus obtained by the parties was 
 about 1274| acres." Ibid., 30th April, 1846, [700] p. 11. 
 
 " No returns of land sales hare been received from this colony 
 for the years 1844 and 1845. In 1840 a few lots were sold for 
 340Z., the moiety of which would be applicable to emigration. TLis 
 sum has not been deemed sufficient to render it expedient, at 
 present, to renew emigration." Ibid., 30th April, 1847, [809] p. 15. 
 
 " From 1842 to 1840 the disposal of land in New Zealand was 
 regulated by the Australian Land Sales Act, 5 and Viet. c. 30. In 
 1840 this Act was repealed, so far as relates to New Zealand, by the 
 Act 9 and 10 Viet., c. 104, sect. 11. The object of the repeal was to 
 remove the restriction which the Land Sales Act opposed to the 
 settlement by exchange or other similar arrangement of the various 
 and complicated land claims which had grown up in New Zealand. 
 The general principle, however, of the Land Sales Act was main- 
 tained and re-established by the Royal Instructions, an extract of 
 which will be found in the Appendix. The operation, however, of 
 those Instructions have since been suspended in the southern 
 province, in consequence of the arrangement with the New Zealand 
 Company to which we have above referred. 
 
 " In our Report of 1843, we alluded to a measure which had 
 been adopted by the then Governor of New Zealand, to facilitate 
 the acquisition of land by individuals, by waiving the Crown's right 
 of pre-emption of native lands, on the payment into the public trea- 
 sury of sums amounting to 10s. an acre. This arrangement was 
 promulgated on the 20th March, 1844, and received from Lord
 
 IN AUCKLAND DISTRICT. 
 
 373 
 
 Stanley a qualified approval. But a further relaxation, established 
 by a proclamation, dated 14th October, 1844, by which the whole 
 payment into the public treasury, on the waiver of the Crown's right 
 of pre-emption, was reduced from 10s. to Id. per acre, was disap- 
 proved by Lord Stanley ; and the present Governor was subsequently 
 instructed by your Lordship immediately to revoke both proclama- 
 tions, and to bring all claims under them to a close at an early 
 period, subjecting them to the strictest scrutiny consistent with 
 pood fiiith. The proclamations in question were accordingly re- 
 voked, and a list of the claims preferred under them has been 
 recently received from Governor Grey. The number of those 
 claims is 148, of which 47 arose under the proclamation of 2fith 
 March, 1844, and 101 under the proclamation of 14th October; and 
 the whole extent of laud claimed is something less than 100,000 
 acres. It seems doubtful, however, whether the conditions of the 
 proclamations were complied with in the majority of these cases, 
 and it is, therefore, probable that the extent of land eventually 
 alienated under these proclamations will be less. 
 
 " The amount of laud sold in New Zealand during the year 1 846 
 was as follows : 
 
 Nature of Lot. 
 
 Extent. 
 
 Average Price 
 per Acre. 
 
 Total Amount of 
 Purchase-money. 
 
 Town Lots . . 
 Suburban Lots 
 Country Lots . 
 
 Total . . . 
 
 A. K. P. 
 
 2 :\ 1 
 27 2 37 
 
 5. d. 
 
 213 6 0$ 
 5 14 4Jf 
 
 *. d. 
 580 7 2 
 158 11 4 
 
 30 1 38 
 
 24 11 10J 
 
 747 18 6 
 
 Ibid., 30tf April, 1848. p. 1:1. 
 
 In a recent Parliamentary Paper, {Emigration, 19 th 
 May, 1848, 345, pp. 12, 13,) there is a Return in 
 which some of the matters described in the above 
 extracts are summed up in a tabular form. It more- 
 over appears from it that the total cost per head of the 
 Emigration to Auckland was a little less than 15 per 
 head. It also contains the following account of the 
 " amounts expended from the land revenue on other 
 objects than Emigration:" 
 
 K K
 
 374 
 
 PRICE AND RENT OF LAND. 
 
 
 184.0. 
 
 1841. 
 
 1842, 
 
 1843. 
 
 1844. 
 
 Totals. 
 
 Survey Department 
 Payments for Land 
 
 
 
 902 
 308 
 219 
 
 
 5330 
 1446 
 902 
 
 
 
 8501 
 2231 
 1550 
 
 
 
 2800 
 130 
 1500 
 
 
 3270 
 1021 
 2073 
 
 
 
 20807 
 5196 
 0:104 
 
 Roads and Bridges . 
 
 
 78 
 
 529 
 
 546 
 
 718 
 
 1871 
 
 Totals .... 
 
 U89 
 
 7702 
 
 12811 
 
 5036 
 
 7082 
 
 34178 
 
 The price and rent of land of course varies, as at 
 Wellington, with its quality and situation. In the 
 New Zealander of November 13th, 1847, there is an 
 account of two farms, of about 80 acres each, on the 
 north shore of Waitemata Harbour, opposite the town 
 of Auckland, having been put up to public auction, 
 and knocked down at 11*. 3d. and 11*. per acre. In 
 'the same paper of the 17th November, 1847, the 
 following lands are advertised to be sold for 250/.: 
 
 10 Town lots, containing 3 acres, 1 rood, 11 perches. 
 
 2 Suburban 111 acres. 
 
 3 Country farms 358 acres. 
 
 In both these cases, the word farms probably does 
 not mean that anything had been done towards re- 
 claiming the land; nor is it known whether the land 
 so sold and offered for sale was land of average quality 
 in the respective classes. 
 
 The cost of clearing is estimated as follows in the 
 " Colonization Circular of 29th July, 1848, No. 8, Fifth 
 Edition, which is issued by Her Majesty's Colonial 
 Land and Emigration Commissioners. Those parts of 
 the publication which relate to New Zealand are of 
 course applicable chiefly to the Auckland district, to 
 which the Commissioners' colonizing operations are 
 confined: 
 
 " Fern-land, 10s. to I/. 10s. ; wood-land, 3J. to 101. per acre, ac- 
 cording to the size of the timber. This does not include the 
 breaking up of the soil,"
 
 AUCKLAND TIUCES. 375 
 
 In the same publication, the following id given as a 
 List of Prices in August, 1847: 
 
 CLOTHING. Men. Coloured shirts, 2s. each ; flunuel do., 5s. to 
 6s do. : baize do., 10s. to IGs. do. ; flush trousers, 7s. to 10s. vp pair; 
 common do., -Is. ; moleskiu do., 8s. to 10s.; do. jacket, 8s. to 10s. 
 each ; straw huts, '.is. to is. each; boots, 8s. to 10s. ^ pair; shoes, 
 (Js. to 10s. l;> pair; worsted stockings, 2s. $* pair; duck frocks, 4s. 
 each; vests, :is. (id. do. ; handkerchiefs, 9d. to Is. each. 
 
 CLOTIIIXU. Wmiu'ii. Shifts, 2s. each; Petticoats, flannel, 5s. to 
 Os. do. ; calico, (id. ty yard ; gown, print, Os. each ; bonnet, 4s. to Gs. 
 do. ; shawls, 2s. to 1.0s. do.; caps, Is. to 4s. do.; shoes, Gs. sppair; 
 stays, 4s. do. ; merino dress, lf)s. each ; flannel, Is. 9d. ^ yard ; 
 blankets, His. to '25s. tp- pair ; sheets, Cs. do.; sheets, cotton, Gd. 
 $> yard; rugs, 4s. to (is. each ; mattresses, 8s. to 12s. do. 
 
 PROVISIONS, ETC. Wheat, 5s. to 7s. per bushel; bread, 1st qua- 
 lity, :>d. 2-lb loaf; flour, 10s. to 20s. y 100 lb; rice, 3d. <p ft,' 
 oatmeal, 5*1. ^ ft> ; tea, 2s. to ;is. do.; sugar, 4d.do. ; cofl'uu, Is. to 
 Is. 2d. do. ; meat, fresh, beef, 8d. ^ lb ; pork, 7d. ; butter, fresh, 
 Is. Gd. $> tb ; ditto, salt, Is. 5d. to Is. 7d. do.; cheese, English, !H1. 
 to Is, 6d. do.; ditto, Colonial, Is. 3d. do.; salt, 2d. to Gd. do.; po- 
 tatoes, 2s. to 3s. ty cwt. ; brandy, 1 *s. to 24s. sp gallon ; beer, 2s. 
 do.; candles, Is. ^ lb ; lamp oil, 2s. Gd. per gal.; soap, 4d. ^ tb ; 
 starch, Gd. do. ; blue, Gd. do. ; tobacco., Is. Gd. to 2s. 6d. do. 
 
 Wages at the same date: 
 
 MALES. Agricultural labourers, 20/. to 30/. ^ annum ;* butchers, 
 4s. ty day ;+ bakers, 4s, to Gs. do. ;t brick-makers, 4s. to Gs. do. ;t 
 bricklayers, 5s. to 7s. do. ;+ blacksmiths, 3s. to 5s. do. ;+ carpenters, 
 7s. to 10s. do.;t cabinet-makers, Gs. to 7s. do. ;t cooks, 15/. to 20/. 
 qv annum ;* coopers, 4s. to 5s. ^ day ;t domestic servants, l-V. to 
 30/. ^ annum;* glaziers, 4s. to 5s. sp- day;t gardeners, 5s. do. ;+ 
 house-servants, 12/. to 1G/. ^ annum;* labourers, common, vS. ii,l. 
 to .'is. (id. ^ day ;* masons, 5s. to 7s. do.;+ Maori laboun , 
 do. ;+ painters luid gla/iers. is. to 5s. do. ;t printers, 4s. to ">s. do. ;f 
 plasterers, 4s. do. ; reapers, good, 3s. do. ;t sawyers, (is. y 100 feet;+ 
 shoe-makers, 4s. to Gs. !j>day;+ shipwrights, 5s. to Gs. do.;+ bul- 
 lock-drivers, 2i >/. to :>()/. i> annum ;* tailors, Os. to 7s. ^ day.t 
 
 FKMALES. Cooks (plain), 15/. to 25/. {^ annum;* dairy maids, 
 1-^. to 20/. do.;* house-servants, 121. to 20/. do.* 
 
 The following are some Statistical Details relating 
 to Auckland. 
 
 In] the New Zealand Government Gazette of the 
 
 * With board and lodging. t Without board and loJtjiny.
 
 376 
 
 AUCKLAND STATISTICS. 
 
 23rd June, 1847, the following Official Return is given 
 of the Population of Auckland: 
 
 YEARS. 
 
 1843. 
 
 1844. 
 
 1846. 
 
 Males . ' 
 
 1621 
 
 229(5 
 
 2836 
 
 Females . 
 
 1183 
 
 1671 
 
 1819 
 
 Total . 
 
 2804 
 
 3970 
 
 4655 
 
 It is not stated whether this return includes the 
 military garrison, which consists at present of the 58th 
 regiment of foot. During the year 1847, too, about 
 500 veteran out-pensioners, constituted into a regiment 
 of New Zealand Fencibles, have been sent to Auckland 
 at the public expense, with their wives and families; 
 but no accurate account of their total number is yet 
 published.* Many of these emigrants being from 
 Ireland, and most of the men infirm and aged, much 
 sickness and mortality took place on their passage out. 
 In one ship, the " Clifton," forty-six deaths occurred 
 out of about three hundred passengers, the principal 
 diseases being small-pox and typhus fever. The local 
 papers complained that sufficient precautions had not 
 been taken against the spread of these diseases in the 
 colony. The New Zealand Fencibles have been quar- 
 tered in two military cantonments in the environs of 
 Auckland, one of which is named Howick, in honour 
 of Earl Grey, the originator of the plan. 
 
 The native population of Auckland is stated in the 
 same return as only 234 in the end of 1846. But a 
 very large proportion of the whole native population of 
 New Zealand, which is said to amount to upwards of 
 100,000 souls, inhabit the districts lying north and 
 
 * For an account of the plan under which this Pensioner Colo- 
 nization has taken place, see Par. Papers presented in 1847.
 
 CHCRCH. COLLEGE. 377 
 
 south of the isthmus on which Auckland stands. They 
 have, on several occasions of festival, assembled to the 
 number of 6000 or 7000 within two or three miles of 
 Auckland. No regular census has ever yet been made 
 of them. The coasting vessels belonging to them were 
 returned, on the 1st September, 1847, as numbering 
 45, measuring in the aggregate 600 tons; 20 vessels 
 belonging to the Bay of Plenty, 12 to Auckland and 
 the Thames, 2 to the Bay of Islands, and 6 to Coro- 
 mandel Harbour and the neighbourhood. 
 
 St. Paul's Church at Auckland has been built at a 
 cost of between 3000/. and 4000/. The present resi- 
 dent clergyman is the Rev. J. F. Churton.* The 
 Bishop of New Zealand resides chiefly at Auckland. 
 Soon after his arrival in New Zealand, he commenced 
 a Collegiate Institution at the Waimate (near the Bay 
 of Islands) for the training of candidates for holy 
 orders, catechists, and schoolmasters, comprising also 
 elementary schools for the children of natives and 
 British settlers. After the college had been in opera- 
 tion for two years at the Waimate, the Bishop, in 1844, 
 removed it to a site about four miles from Auckland, 
 near the Tamaki river. The following extract gives 
 au account of it: 
 
 In a letter, dated September, 1816, the Bishop thus describes 
 tbe College : 
 
 " ' The buildings at present completed are the school dormitories, 
 in which we are all now living the kitchen (now used both for 
 kitchen and hall), fir the side of this, the hospital, with stone 
 foundations and wooden superstructure, has risen to the height of 
 the eaves. Further on, materials are lying ready for the native 
 schools. Three little wooden cottages, on the other side of the 
 road, are the dwellings of the college servants. In the valley is the 
 college barn, now used for the native schools, but shortly to be ap 
 plied to the purposes for which it was designed.' 
 
 " A number of little thatched buildings of native reeds are occu- 
 pied by some of the students the rest being with the Bishop on the 
 LU1. 
 
 * Salary, 325/. per annum.
 
 378 ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE. 
 
 " ' Our walls of 70100010 stone, two feet thick, defy the winds, 
 which whistle round us in our lofty situation. Though the hill on 
 which we are situated is of volcanic origin, yet the fire seems to 
 have died away, as is evident hy thirteen or fourteen extinct craters 
 which may be counted from the college grounds. In front, through 
 my latticed casement window, I have a noble sea view over the bays 
 and islands, among which the Flying Fish cruises on her mis- 
 sionary errands. On the right, eight acres of wheat are just now 
 beginning to be green, when your English harvest is safely stacked. 
 This is the work of our native schools, and has occupied forty 
 spades, great and small the adults and boys all working the older 
 digging, the younger breaking up and pulverizing the soil. On the 
 left is the English valley, where the English schools have subdued 
 from the waste two acres of garden ground, in which vegetables of 
 many kinds and several flowers are just beginning to show their 
 spring shoots. Our little army of seventy spades, working regularly 
 two or three hours a day, soon changes the appearance of the land, 
 with the aid of the college team of six bullocks, to break up the 
 stubborn surface, and make it more tractable for hand labour. Next 
 year we hope to eat no bread that is not the fruit of our own 
 land.' " 
 
 " The college has recently been visited by Nene, or Thomas 
 Walker, the native chief, who fought on the English side in the 
 north, and who appears to have considered the building in the light 
 of a fortress. ' It was amusing," the Bishop writes, ' to see him when 
 he came to visit us, viewing the buildings, and pointing out where 
 the loop-holes ought to be broken out in the walls, and then he said, 
 ' Ekore horo,' ' it will not be stormed.' You may be sure that I 
 shall not desire to make the experiment, but shall do my best to 
 maintain peace with all men.' " Annals of the Diocese of New 
 Zealand. 1847. p. 223. 
 
 In the Appendix to the same publication, at p. 228, 
 there is the following account of the 
 
 "DIOCESE OF NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 " METBOPOLITAN His Grace the Archbishop of Canterbury. 
 BisJwp of the Diocese George Augustus Selwyu, D.D. ; conse- 
 crated October 17, 1841 ; landed in New Zealand, May 30, 1842. 
 Examining Chaplain The Ven. Archdeacon Wm. Williams, B.A." 
 Domestic Chaplain Eev. W. C. Cotton, M.A.* Inspector of Na- 
 tive Schools Rev. S. Williams." 
 
 * Returned to England in 1848. 
 
 " The gentlemen so marked are in the employment of the Church 
 Missionary Society.
 
 DIOCESE OF NEW ZEALAND. 379 
 
 " ARCHDEACONRY or WAITBJIATA. Archdeacon, (vacant.) St. 
 Paul's Church Rev. J. F. Churton. 1. Rural Deanery of Hanraki : 
 Orere Rev. W. C. Dudlej, B.A. 2. Rural Deanery of Waikaio: 
 Rural Dean Rev. R. Ma'unsell, B.A., Waikato Heads." 
 
 ' ABCHDEACOXBY or THE WAIMATE.* Archdeacon The Yen. 
 Henry Williams, Paihia,*" The Waimate Rev. R. Bnrroirs.' 
 Kaikohe Rev. R. Davis." Kaitaia Rev. J. Matthews.* 
 
 ' ARCHDEACONRY or TACBAXGA.* Archdeacon The Ven. Alfred 
 Nesbit Brown, Tauranga." Tauranga Rev. C. P. Davies." Ro- 
 torna Rev. T. Chapman." 
 
 "ABCHDEACOXBY or WAIAPU.$ Archdeacon The Ven. Wra. 
 Williams, Turanga." Hangitukia Rev. C. L. Rear, M.A. The 
 Wairoa Rev. J. Hamlin." Ahuriri Rer. W. Colenso." 
 
 "ABCHDEACOXBY or KAPITI. Archdeacon, (not appointed.) 
 Rural Dean Rev. Octavius Hadfield." Wellington Rev. B. Cole, 
 
 if. A. Waikanae Wanganni Rer. R. Taylor, M.A." 
 
 Taranaki Rev. W. Bolland, B.C. L. Nelson RCY. H. GoYeU,"J 
 Rev. H. Butt. 
 
 For further information relating to the College of 
 St. John's, Bishops Auckland, the reader is referred to 
 Annals of the Diocese ofXcw Zealand, 1847, Appendix, 
 p. 229. and to the New ZealandChurch Almanac, printed 
 at the press of that college, and of which copies may 
 probably be procured at the shops of such booksellers 
 as sell especially religious and missionary publications. 
 
 There is no account of other schools at Auckland. 
 
 As to the Cultivation of Land, the most recent 
 return that can be found is one given in the New 
 Zealand Journal, of May 9, 1846, No. 166, p. 100. 
 This states 1996 acres to be in cultivation in the 
 northern settlements, including probably the Bay of 
 Islands, Hokianga, &c., in the year 1844. At the 
 same date the Live Stock in the northern settlements is 
 stated to have been 227 horses, 1768 horned cattle, 
 and 1936 sheep. It is believed that these numbers 
 have not been very greatly increased during recent 
 years. 
 
 * Head-quarters of the Church Missionary Society. See p. 394. 
 
 + Chairman of the Church Mission in New Zealand. 
 
 J Bay of Plenty. . Since dead. 
 
 j At the East Cape. ^ Now at Tarauaki.
 
 380 GOVERNMENT FINANCE 
 
 In the Government Gazette, already mentioned, the 
 following statements for Auckland are given for the 
 year 1846: 
 
 
 Value Imports ........................ 81523 
 
 Exports ........................ 46:U-i 
 
 Customs' Revenue . . .................... 11155 
 
 Ships. 
 
 The following is an Abstract of Revenue and Ex- 
 penditure of Auckland during the Quarter ending 31st 
 December, 1847: 
 
 REVENUE. 
 
 Ordinary. s. d. 
 
 Customs .................................... 5191 15 2 
 
 Fees and Fines: 
 
 Supreme Court ................ 16 1 1 
 
 Local Court .................. 27 12 
 
 Resident Magistrate's Court ...... 7 1 6 
 
 Police Court .................. 80 17 10 
 
 - 131 12 5 
 Fees for Registry of Deeds ...................... 55 6 9 
 
 Post Office Collections .......................... 250 1 4 
 
 Miscellaneous Receipts .......................... 4 19 
 
 Total Ordinary 5633 14 8 
 
 Crown Lands. 
 Fees on Land, Claims and Crown Grants 56 12 4 
 
 Waivers of Pre-emption 409 16 3 
 
 Occupation Licenses OJ8 
 
 Proceeds of Sale of Crown Lands 
 
 Total Crown Lands 482 6 7 
 
 In Aid. 
 
 Parliamentary Grant 4082 10 
 
 Land Claimants' Debenture 164 14 6 
 
 Total in Aid 4247 4 
 
 Total Receipts 10,363 5 9
 
 IN AUCKLAND DISTRICT. 381 
 
 EXPBXDITCKE. $. 4, 
 
 Establishment of H. E., Uie Governor 101 18 
 
 Colonial Secretary's Department 421 12 10 
 
 Treasurers 212 11 6 
 
 Audit Department 112 10 
 
 Survey 261 2 
 
 Public Works 251 4 
 
 Roads 1716 6 11 
 
 Land Commission 377 3 1 
 
 Customs' Department -.'72 19 6 
 
 Post Office 12015 8 
 
 M :i .1 92 4 8 
 
 Harbour 124 8 7 
 
 Government Brig, Victoria 595 14 11 
 
 Schooner, Albert 64 1 2 
 
 Armed Police Force 827 9 6 
 
 Aborigines 164 1 2 
 
 Supreme Cpart 340 
 
 Attorney-General 114 3 4 
 
 Local Conn 56 5 
 
 Resident Magistrate's Coon .' 95 10 
 
 Coroner 1 11 
 
 Sheriff and Gaol . 1C2 5 8 
 
 Ecclesiastical 200 
 
 Schools 85 
 
 Stationery and Printing 06 4 H 
 
 Charitable Aid 20 4 7 
 
 Postages 4 J 
 
 Laie Military operations 26 5 6 
 
 Militia 18 14 
 
 Interest 628 6 5 
 
 Miscellaneous.. 77 
 
 X7756 19 7 
 
 Disbursements on account of Wellington -'2 6 8 
 
 New Plymouth 8 11 5 
 
 Akaroa 6 C 
 
 Russell 56 19 9 
 
 Hokianga 72 
 
 Total Expenditure 7!>22 17 o 
 
 For further information relating to the Revenue 
 and Expenditure, &c. of Auckland, see Appendix B.
 
 382 AUCKLAND DIRECTORY. 
 
 There is a Savings Bank at Auckland, which has 
 been established one or two years: and the Union 
 Bank of Australia established a Branch there in the 
 year 1848; the Manager is Mr. Alexander Kennedy. 1 
 
 Two newspapers are published, each twice a week, at 
 Auckland; the New Zealander and the Southern Cross. 
 
 Owing to the impossibility of consulting a complete 
 file of the recent New Zealand Government Gazette, 
 it is difficult to furnish, more completely than follows, 
 a Directory for Auckland: 
 
 Governor in Chief of New Zealand. .Sir George Grey, K.C.B. 
 Secretary to General Government. . . .The Hon. C. A.Dillon. 
 
 Chief Justice W. Martin, Esq. 
 
 Commander of tlie Forces Major-Gen. G. D. Pitt, K.H. 
 
 PROVINCE OF NEW ULSTER. 
 
 Lieut. Governor (during absence) * ,, . ~ 
 
 , ofGovernor-in-Chich | .*fMajor-Geu.G.D. Pztt^.H. 
 
 Colonial Secretary * + Andrew Sinclair, Esq. 
 
 Native + J. J. Symonds, Esq. 
 
 Colonial Treasurer and Receiver- ) .. . 
 
 General $ ' - Me *- She P herd > Es( l- 
 
 Attorney General * + W. Swainson, Esq. 
 
 Registrar of Supreme Court, and I 
 
 Registrar-General of Births, > . .+ T. Outhwaite, Esq. 
 Deaths, and Marriaijes ) 
 
 Surveyor-General t C. Wybrow Ligar, Esq. 
 
 Collector of Customs + Henry D'Arch, Esq. 
 
 Sheriff + Percival Berrey, Esq. 
 
 Auditor-General f Charles Knight, Esq. 
 
 Colonial Surgeon + J. Johnson, Esq. 
 
 Inspector of Police t T. Pi. Atkyns, Esq. 
 
 Sub-Inspector ditto t W. B. White, Esq. 
 
 Resident Magistrate + T. Beckham, Esq. 
 
 Justices of the Peace (besides those marked above} Lieutenant- 
 Colonel R. H. Wynyard, C.B., commanding 58th regt.; Major 
 H. Matson, 58th regt. ; Major J. Gray, Commanding Royal 
 N. Z. Fencibles ; Captain J. H. Lnye, 58th regt. ; Captains 
 W. H. Kenny, C. H. M. Smith, and A. Macdonald, Royal 
 N. Z. Fencibles; H. W. Mahon, M.D. ; J. Coates, W. 
 Brown, F. W. Merrimau, W. Donnelly, A. Kennedy, J. Scott, 
 H. C. Lawlor, L. M'Lachlan, W. E. Cormack, W. S. Grahame, 
 and E. Mayne, Esqrs. 
 
 * Members of the Executive Council, 
 f Justices of the Peace.
 
 NORTHERN EXTREMITY. 383 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Country North of Auckland. Dr. Dieffenbach the best authority. 
 The Land's End. Mount Carmcl. Atcaroa River and 
 J'alley. Kaitaia. Large Native Population. Lund alien- 
 ated. Hilly Range. Mungonui Harbour. Putekaka River. 
 Wangaroa Harbour. Marble. False Hokianga. Hokl- 
 anga. Wet Climate. Lake Maupere. Thermal Springs. 
 Wexataie. Church Mission. Bay of Inlands. Harbour. 
 Town-sites. Statistics. Wairoa River. Kaipara Harbour. 
 Tributary Hirers. Kaipara proper. Portage to Auckland. 
 Climate of the Northern Extremity of New Zealand. 
 
 WITH respect to the district of country lying to the 
 north of 'the isthmus between Auckland and Manukau 
 harbours, the reader anxious for full information with 
 regard to it should consult Dr. Dieffenbach's work, 
 already'so often referred to. Chapters XII. to XIX. 
 inclusive, of the 1st volume, consist of an account of 
 that part of the islands. A few extracts are as much 
 as the space will allow in this publication. 
 Beginning from the north: 
 
 " This estuary (Parenga renga) is not laid down in any chart, 
 although it is an extensive one ; it must be placed at what is called 
 Sandy Bay in the general charts, in latitude 35 3.V S., and in 17^ 
 57' E. longitude. The entrance to it is narrow, but is two fathoms 
 deep at low water. The tide rises ten feet. I must, however, ob- 
 serve that, in standing out of the harbour in our schooner during the 
 ebb-tide, I observed some rocks in the entrance, about six feet under 
 water, and vessels must therefore ascertain the exact channel pre- 
 viously to entering. 
 
 " The harbour, or the estnary, as it should more properly be called 
 is from six to eight square miles in extent, and sends several branches 
 in different directions for some distance inland, all of which are na- 
 vigable for boats at high water. Good land is situated nt the head 
 of these channels; one of these is only a little distance from Ka-po- 
 wairtia on the northern coast. The best anchorage in the harbour 
 is within the inner northern head, where there is five fathoms water. 
 * * * * Wild pigs have overrun the northern extremity of the 
 island, where they feed upon fern-root and sea-weeds. A great 
 quantity of fish is taken iu the harbour, especially skates, herrings,
 
 384 NORTHERN EXTREMITY OF 
 
 mackarel and snappers ; and the natives were preserving them in 
 great quantities by simply drying them in the sun. 
 
 " The whole extremity of the island, from Parenga-renga to the 
 northward, is called by the natives Muri-wenua (the land's end), 
 and from my description it will be seen that there is not much to 
 entice European settlers. There is, however, land fit for some 
 small farms, with excellent soil, sufficient wood, and great facilities 
 of water-carriage. But it is to be expected that the remainder of the 
 original tribe will return to their native place, and at the same time 
 it is probable that some one of the private purchasers will occupy 
 his land, and give the natives a stimulus for improving their con- 
 dition. A considerable number of sheep would find easy sustenance 
 on the hills, more so indeed than in most other parts of New Zea- 
 land, as the herbage here is low, and therefore better adapted for 
 sheep than a high and vigorous one." Chap. xii. p. 207. 
 
 " At the narrowest part of the island, from Parenga-renga to about 
 eight miles to the South of Mount Carmel, the laud consists either 
 of low hills or swamps, and is almost useless on the east coast, where 
 it is lined by a long sandy beach, here and there interrupted by 
 bluffs of basaltic rock, which are verdant with groups of the hardy 
 pohutukaua tree (Mctrosideros tomentosa}. The vegetation of the 
 hills is brown and low, almost wholly consisting of fern and manuka. 
 On the western coast the land wears a better aspect, where no sand 
 hills intervene. * * * Everywhere springs of most excellent 
 water prove the moisture of the climate, even in the height of sum- 
 mer. In consequence of this abundant moisture, the natives have 
 many plantations, which are in a thriving state. 
 
 " Towards Waro, a high dome-like promontory, the land becomes 
 excellent. This mountain is the commencement of a continued 
 chain of similar hills, which run along the western coast to the 
 southward, their formation being different varieties of trap. 
 
 " Mount Carmel itself is not connected with any chain of moun- 
 tains, but forms an isolated hill, and rises to the height of about 
 500 feet above the sea. This mountain protects a deep inlet, which, 
 at the head, branches off into several shallow channels, and forms 
 a perfectly sheltered harbour for vessels of the largest burden, with 
 anchorage close to the eastern shore : the entrance to this harbour 
 is not more than forty or fifty yards broad. The mountain is similar 
 in its structure to the main range of hills, and its appearance is 
 such as to indicate clearly its formation below the level of the sea. 
 The base is basalt and clinkstone; the summit forms a narrow 
 ridge, from which steep buttresses run out towards the sea on one 
 side, and towards the harbour on the other. On the top, and to 
 seaward, this hilly group is barren, although, from the resin found 
 here, we have unequivocal proofs that it was once covered with 
 kauri. Towards the harbour the natives have cultivated portions of
 
 THE NORTH ISLAND. 385 
 
 the steep ridges ; these plantations alternate with pleasant bushes 
 and groves to the water's edge. 
 
 " Although the surrounding country is not a favourable district 
 for colonists, this harbour may afford shelter to vessels which draw 
 too much water to lie with safety in the Bay of Raugaunu. 
 
 ' Some uiiles to the southward of Mount Carmel the land at once 
 assumes a very different aspect. The rnnpo-swamps, and the low 
 barren elevations of the soil between them, give way to an extensive 
 alluvial district, which stretches from the eastern to the western 
 coast, aud follows the serpentine course of the Awaroa, a river which 
 empties itself into the estuary of Kangauitu, a shallow and extensive 
 arm of the sea, with an open though an intricate channel for 
 moderate-sized vessels. I entered the harbour at low-water, in the 
 schooner, which drew eight feet, and, not knowing the channel, we 
 grounded several times, although there is but little danger in fine 
 weather, as the bottom is soft and muddy. We anchored about 
 three miles from the north head, sheltered by a spit of sand, and 
 then went twenty miles farther up the river in a boat, to the farming 
 establishment of a Mr. Southee. On a second visit we took the 
 schooner up to the same place, and anchored close to the house of 
 Mr. Southee, where the river was not much broader than the length 
 of our little craft. But the tide presses the fresh water back eight 
 feet above its usual level, and it is then of considerable depth. It 
 is one of those rivers the banks of which consist only of their own 
 allmium, the channel winding in a serpentine course; it has little 
 full, but the tide renders it always navigable. The banks are per- 
 pendicular, and rise two or three feet above the level of the spring- 
 tides ; towards its outlet, however, the land is low and swampy, an J 
 is overflowed when winds from the sea raise the water to n higher 
 level, or when floods, occasioned by long-contiuned rain, come down 
 from the interior. 
 
 " At first we passed swamps covered with mangroves, sometimes 
 only showing their heads above water, and affording shelter to flights 
 of ducks and other aquatic birds. When the banks become higher, 
 the land is perfectly level ; the soil, as is seen by the section of the 
 river banks, is in some places a stiff black loam, in others a lighter 
 earth, to all appearance admirably adapted for grain. The country 
 is perfectly open in many places, and only covered with tnpakihi 
 i Coriaria sarmentosa), fern, high flax, aud here and there some 
 spots of grass. In other parts the ti (Dracaena anstralis), the stem 
 of which seldom exceeds half a foot in thickness, forms a jungle. 
 * * * The higher we went, the more agreeable was the scene. 
 On the shores were native settlements, with long seines hanging 
 out to dry, and ninny natives at work mending canoes and their 
 fi^Liug apparatus, for the season is approaching when the shark is 
 citugbt in great numbers. Here and there fields of potatoes, kume- 
 L L
 
 386 AWAROA VALLEY. 
 
 ras, melons, and pumpkins, neatly fenced in, and kept extremely 
 clean, show all the vigour of vegetation for which New Zealand is 
 so remarkable. Their owners welcomed us as we went along, but 
 did not evince any pressing curiosity. * * * Early in the 
 evening we arrived at Southee's farm ; it is situated on both banks 
 of the river, which here forms by its serpentine course several 
 natural paddocks. The maize, growing ten or twelve feet high, nnd 
 the fields of yellow wheat, bowing under the weight of the grain, 
 showed what the laud is capable of producing. Cattle were grazing 
 about, and the well-stocked farm-yard bore testimony to an industry 
 such as is very rarely met with amongst the numerous settlers of all 
 classes who for several years have had almost the whole of the land 
 partitioned amongst themselves, as the generality of them have 
 bought the land for the purpose of speculation, instead of culti- 
 vation. 
 
 " Mr. Southee has about 300 natives around him in his immediate 
 neighbourhood, who cultivate bits of land interspersed with his own, 
 and who, for cheap wages, work for him in various branches of 
 husbandry, and thus procure for themselves those European com- 
 modities for which they have acquired a taste. He gives them 
 articles to the value of '21. for every acre they clear. The mode 
 which he adopts in clearing the land is to cut down all brush-wood 
 and vegetation in summer, and to burn it when it has become dry. 
 Immediately after this he sows the ground with turnips, and, when 
 these have been gathered, with potatoes, which require only a little 
 hoeing. The roots and stumps are then sufficiently rotten, and the 
 ground can be easily tilled and prepared for grain. 
 
 " From Mr. Southee's house the river turns, with many windings, 
 towards the western coast. Higher up its course it acquires greater 
 fall, and in many places is obstructed by snags. Its banks are of 
 the same good description, and are here and there clothed witli 
 groves of kahikatea, rimu, and totara pines, or of tarairi (Laiirus 
 tarairi) and puriri, until it arrives at Kaitaia. A mission-station 
 and native settlement is situated about eight miles from the western 
 coast, on a hilly eminence, an offset of the chain of hills which run 
 from near this point through the interior. Between this chain and 
 the range of western coast hills which I have above mentioned, 
 flows the Awaroa, having its source near that of the Mango-mnka 
 a branch of the Hokianga river, from which it is separated by the 
 Maunga Taniwa, a remarkable pyramidical peak which towers above 
 the chain of hills, being nearly 1500 feet high. 
 
 " Throughout its course the valley of the Awaroa is capable of 
 being made very productive, as the soil is extremely fertile : from 
 Kaitaia it narrows to the breadth of one mile. Several miles below 
 Kaitaia the river is joined by another, coming from the eastern hills 
 in the neighbourhood of Mangouui in Lauriston Bay, and at the 
 point of junction scarcely inferior in size to the Awaroa, Above
 
 KAITAIA. 387 
 
 Kuitiiiii thu Awaroii is only passable by cnnoes, ill which the natives 
 carry down food from their plantations to their principal settlement 
 at KuiUiia. They prefer the upper part of the valley for cultivation, 
 as indeed they usually do; and their fields are very extensive, and 
 kept in good order. From Kaitaia to the western coast the land is 
 equally good. In some places there is excellent grass. A wooden 
 bridge over the river has been built by the natives, under the 
 k'uidiince of the missionaries ; and if we cross it, and pass to Waro 
 on the western eoast, several valleys are seen stretching from the 
 western hills into the plain, in most of which natives reside. To 
 the northward of Waro low ridges run parallel to the sea-coast, 
 small creeks flowing between them, and the light soil there is 
 eagerly sought after for the cultivation of kumeras. At one of these 
 creeks, the Wai-mimi, there is an extensive bed of lignite. About 
 two miles to the northward of Kaitaia is a small fresh-water lake, 
 containing large eels and two kinds of small fishes; crawfish is also 
 found there. 
 
 " The natives form the tribe of the Rarcwn, and their whole num- 
 ber is about 8000, including all those who inhabit the valley of the 
 Awarca. Of all the natives who are under the influence of the 
 missionaries, this tribe is the most advanced in the arts of civiliza- 
 tion. * * * 
 
 " They are a quiet, hard-working people, and they have, for a very 
 small payment, cut a road thirty-two miles long through the primi- 
 tive forest, between Kaituia and Waimate, in the neighbourhood of 
 the Bay of Islands ; they have also cut roads in the neighbourhood 
 of their own village. During my stay I saw them reap wheat and 
 plough several acres of land, and the missionaries encourage them 
 to exchange their former unwholesome food of decayed maize and 
 potatoes for bread. Several of the natives have one or two head of 
 cattle and horses ; and I have every reason to believe that here at 
 least the missionaries will encourage their acquiring them, in order 
 to dispose of the increase of their own stock. 
 
 " The village has quite an English appearance ; a large Church, 
 with a steeple of kauri boards, has been constructed almost entirely 
 by the natives ; gardens, with roses, are before the houses, and at 
 the foot of the hill wheat alternates with vines, with hops, which 
 thrive extremely well, and with various fruit-trees and vegetables : 
 there are also several patches planted with tobacco. * 
 
 " The hills which stretch from Kaitaia, through the interior of 
 the country, arc wooded, and only a few miles from Kaitaia they are 
 covered with kauri-forest. Near the entrance to Rangaunu Bay are 
 very fine groves of this valuable tree, mixed with tanekalm, rata, 
 tawai, and other excellent timber-trees. An arm of the sea, which 
 is joined here by a fresh-water creek, the Mongoke, and which flows 
 through a considerable extent of forest, affords facilities for floating 
 the timber down, or for establishing saw-mills.
 
 388 AWAROA VALLEY 
 
 " Tlie alluvial land, as already observed, is for the most part (it 
 for immediate cultivation : tbe herds of cattle and horses belonging 
 to the missionaries are in excellent condition, and show that there 
 is a sufficiency of pasturage. 
 
 " lu the neighbourhood of the mission-station there is found a 
 white, hard, and very closely-grained sand-stone, which would prove 
 an excellent building-stone. 
 
 " The hills near the western coast, on the left bank of the 
 Awaroa, consist of basaltic masses, of rounded forms and of moderate 
 height. They are covered with a mixed forest; no kauri is found 
 there ; and all the land to the westward of the Awaroa must be con- 
 sidered as excellent, notwithstanding its hilly character. The hills 
 on the right bank, which extend through the interior of the island, 
 are composed of a soft argillaceous slate, reposing upon a base of 
 hard volcanic rock, phonolithe, or clinkstone. Where the claystone 
 and the phonolithe are in contact, a transition from the hard con- 
 dition of the latter to the soft state of the former is observable to 
 the eye of the geologist, and displays an instructive phenomenon. 
 Very near Kaitaia, about 150 feet above the level of the valley, a 
 slaty marl crops out in perpendicular slabs in the depressions of the 
 hills, and is an excellent material for improving the soil of certain 
 kinds of fields, and is, in fact, extensively used in agriculture. 
 
 " A bridle-road leads from Kaitaia for thirty-four miles through 
 the forest : it was cut by fifty natives for as many blankets, and was 
 completed in six weeks. * * * The days of such cheap work 
 are now gone by in New Zealand. At a distance of seventeen miles 
 and a half on this road is situated Maunga Tauiwa. 
 
 " The whole valley of the Awaroa cannot contain less than 
 120,000 acres of arable land. In respect to the quality of the soil, 
 the facility of cultivation, as well as of water communication, the 
 abundance of excellent wood and of other building materials, the 
 district is one of the most favoured in New Zealand. A great 
 portion of the land has been purchased by a few private individuals ; 
 but if the intentions of Government, of not allowing more than 
 2000 acres to any one individual, is strictly earned into effect, a 
 great part of these purchases will come back to the natives, and, 
 without injuring the interests of the latter, government will have no 
 difficulty in acquiring a fine agricultural district. Kaitaia itself, 
 which is eight miles from the western coast, and six from Southee's 
 station, is a desirable place for a provincial town, as it is in the 
 centre of the district, and in a healthy situation ; it stands on an 
 eminence commanding a view of the whole district, and is especially 
 adapted to serve as a central point and market-place for the sur- 
 rounding native population." 
 
 " To the southward of Kaitaia the interior of the island is occupied 
 by a range of hills, which sends its branches both eastward and 
 westward, forming narrow valleys that serve as river-courses. The
 
 AND NEIGHBOURING COUNTRY. 389 
 
 sea enters into several inlets on both coasts, where it is joined by 
 the various rivers, if the mountain-streams deserve that name, and 
 forms several harbours. The general height of these hills is less 
 than 1.000 feet above the level of the sea ; this height, however, they 
 attain in the Mannga Taniwa. The top of this pyramid, which runs 
 almost to a point, offers an excellent view of the surrounding land. 
 An old Metrosideros stands on the summit, overshadowing the 
 heavy growth all around : the natives have cut steps into its stem 
 to afford an easy ascent. From this place we overlook the whole 
 northern extremity of the island as far as the Bay of Islands, and it 
 will afford an excellent trigonometrical station. We can here per- 
 ceive that the different ramifications of the chain do not form valleys, 
 but ravines, whicli only widen towards the estuaries of the sea. 
 The whole is clothed with a thick forest, the dark verdure of which 
 is uninterrupted, except by the bright green of a raupo-swamp in 
 the bottom of the ravines, or by the brown hue of the fern, which 
 covers some districts, especially towards the coast. The forest is a 
 mixed one ; that is to say, there is no prevailing kind of trees, and 
 only towards Mango-nui, Wangaroa, and Hokiauga are groves of 
 kauri. * * * 
 
 " The formation of which this hilly ridge is composed, so far as 
 the luxuriant vegetation permits of its being observed, is a yellowish 
 argillaceous rock, mixed in fragments with the vegetable mould. It 
 is of various degrees of hardness, and in most cases may be ob- 
 served in conjunction with compact basaltic rock, which appears 
 sometimes piotruding on the surface, sometimes laid hare in the 
 river courses. The pebbles in the rivers are whinstone, of different 
 colours, and varying in point of hardness, and this rock seems to be 
 everywhere the lowermost, and to compose the greater bulk of the 
 mountain, having in its formation variously acted upon and changed 
 the covering argillaceous rock. Both on the eastern and western 
 coast other kinds of rocks may be seen, marly limestone, marble, 
 injunction with slates, conglomerates, sandstones, and lignite, of 
 which I shall have occasion to speak more fully when describing 
 the places in which they occur. The flat alluvial land extending on 
 the right shore of the Awaroa to Rangaunu Bay is separated from 
 Lauriston Bay by an offset from this hilly ridge, which juts out into 
 the sea, and forms Kari Kari, or Knuckle Point. These hills are 
 low, covered in some places with a little wood, in others with fern. 
 The first place which claims onr attention in Lanriston Bay is Oruru, 
 where a river, which takes its rise on the eastern slope of Maunga 
 Tauiwa, and which can be entered by a boat, empties itself into the 
 sea. On both sides of this river is excellent level and clear land, 
 which rises slowly towards Mannga Taniwa. Oruru is separated by 
 low hills covered with a stiff white clay and a scanty vegetation from 
 a similar valley, eight miles to the northward, and out of which 
 L L2
 
 390 MANGONUI AND 
 
 another river runs into the sea. The road from Oruru into the har- 
 bour of Mango uni leads over a succession of sleep lulls and narrow 
 fertile ravines. The distance is about ten miles. * * * 
 
 " The greater part of the land (at Oruru) has been sold, chiefly 
 to Mr. Ford, who was formerly the surgeon attached to the missions. 
 
 "The harbour of Mango-nui is not laid down in any chart; 
 vessels rounding Point Surville should keep close to the southern 
 shore of Lauriston Bay, and will then have no difficulty in avoiding 
 the reef of rocks which runs off Oruru in a north-easterly direction, 
 and which is the only obstacle to a safe and easy entrance into the 
 harbour. The channel is not above 100 yards wide, but is very 
 deep. Several whalers have at different times resorted to this har- 
 bour for provisions and repair. In the narrow part of the channel 
 a vessel can keep close to the southern shore ; and, entering the 
 basin, haul close round the southern head, and anchor in five 
 fathoms water about a quarter of a mile off that head, where a small 
 number of vessels are perfectly sheltered. The rest of the estuary 
 is a large basin, spreading out into mud flats at low water, with a 
 channel sufficiently deep for large boats, near the northern shore, up 
 to its head, which is here entered by a river that takes its rise in 
 the hills separating the harbour of Wangaroa from Mango-nui. An 
 arm of the latter stretches towards Oruru, and unites with this river 
 behind an island of moderate size which forms the head of the har- 
 bour. This island conceals mangrove flats, which lie on both sides 
 of the channel. 
 
 " The river Pn-te-kaka is entered by the tide for about eight miles, 
 and thus far a boat can go up it. It flows through an undulating 
 open country, the elevations alternating with large swamps, which 
 might be easily drained, and would then form good agricultural land. 
 Higher up, the view is shut in by the hills towards Wuugaroa, which 
 are about fifteen miles distant, and are covered with kauri-forest, as 
 are also the hills to the west and north. The land up to the base 
 of those hills is devoid of trees. At this point the Pu-te-kaka is 
 only a small creek, but several times during the year it swells suffi- 
 ciently to float large logs of kauri into the harbour. * * * 
 
 " About six miles from its outlet into the harbour the Pu te-kaka 
 is joined by another river, which flows through a fine cultivated 
 valley. The north side of the harbour is hilly, and consists of a 
 red ferruginous loam, interrupted in some places by basult and Ly- 
 diau stone. The southern head of the harbour is a narrow peninsula, 
 with table-land on the top ; towards Point Surville the coast is hilly, 
 with occasional narrow valleys, most of which are wooded towards 
 the sea-coast. 
 
 " There are about thirty Europeans living in this harbour, chiefly 
 sawyers and storekeepers, and a few natives. The latter have their 
 fixed habitations at Oruru, and only come here for the puq>oses of 
 trade and work. * * * They have sold the whole of the harbour
 
 \VANGAROA HARBOURS. 391 
 
 and surrounding country to different people ; but tbe chiefs at Kai- 
 tnin deny that they bad any right to do so, and have asserted their 
 own claim to the territory by selling the harbour to government. 
 
 " Mango-nui is well situated for a small town, as it commands a 
 sufficient extent of agricultural and timber land to ensure success. 
 There is an easy communication with tbe different native settlements 
 in Lauriston Bay ; and a good path leads to Kaitaia, which might 
 easily be converted into a road. 
 
 " The harbour of Wangaroa has already obtained some celebrity 
 by the catastrophe which happened to the Boyd, and the murder of 
 her crew and passengers by the natives, in the year 1809. It is 
 situated about twenty-five miles to the northward of the Bay of 
 Islands. From Point Surville to the entrance of this harbour the 
 const is clill'y mid steep, consisting of fragments of volcanic rock 
 very (irmly cemented together into a conglomerate. The entrance 
 to the harbour is formed by towering perpendicular rocks of the 
 same description, and is only about 100 yards broad. Pohutukaua- 
 trees and others overhang these black walls, and form a very pictu- 
 resque contrast with them. The entrance looks as if the solid rocks 
 had been rent asunder by an earthquake, and the steep opposite 
 sides had undergone a continued friction before they parted. Deep 
 fissures penetrate the coast, and high cubical masses are piled one 
 above another ill-shore to the height of several hundred feet. The 
 most remarkable is Waihi, or St. Peter, a cluster of these solid 
 rocks on the northern head. Tbe water in the entrance is of great 
 depth close to the rocks, and there is no sunken rock or other 
 hidden danger below the surface. This volcanic conglomerate over- 
 lies a formation of volcanic ashes, which contains carbonized re- 
 mains of fern and wood. Nearly opposite Waihi a dome-like ele- 
 vation crowns a pyramidical wooded bill, called Hakiri. * * * 
 To the northward are the hills which separate Wangaroa from 
 Mango-nui, and which are called Tara Tara. The south side of the 
 harbour is likewise rocky, and consists of much-fissured wakke and 
 basalt. The harbour itself is very spacious and deep, possesses 
 anchorage for the largest fleet, and is sheltered from all winds. As 
 a harbour it ranks with the best in New Zealand, and tbe beauty of 
 its scenery is nowhere suqiassed. There is, however, but little 
 available land in its immediate neighbourhood: to tbe northward 
 the sea forms some inlets with flats, which are overgrown with 
 trees; and kauri- timber is found on the neighbouring bills, but at 
 some distance from the coast, all that grew nearer the sea having 
 already been cut down or destroyed. Several vessels have here 
 been laden with timber, and craft of small burden have been built 
 here. About '2000 natives live in tbe immediate neighbourhood of 
 this place, part of whom have become Protestant, part Eoman- 
 Ciitholic converts. Mission-stations for bo!h confessions are esta- 
 blished here, and the natives seeui to be in a fair state of advance- 
 ment. * * * * *
 
 392 FALSE HOKIANGA. 
 
 " Besides the missionaries, about a dozen other Europeans, 
 mostly sawyers, live in different parts of this district ; hut, with the 
 exception of Mr. Shepherd, the Church missionary, no one has 
 made any attempt to cultivate the soil. 
 
 " Ahout two miles from the south head of Wangaroa harbour a 
 beautiful red and variegated marble is found on the coast, of a close, 
 fine grain, and in sufficient quantity to become of importance for 
 domestic architecture at some future time. This marble occurs in 
 connexion with chloritic and argillaceous slates, and seems to be- 
 long to the transition or secondary series, if we may judge from its 
 mineral character, for it does not contain any fossils. 
 
 " The entrance to the harbour can be easily found, being oppo- 
 site to the northernmost of the Cavalles, a chain of islands chiefly of 
 basaltic formation, and extending along the coast towards the Bay 
 of Islands. 
 
 "We now return to the western coast. If we travel from Kaitaia 
 towards the source of the Awaroa, we see its valley separated from 
 the coast by undulating hills of basaltic structure, and covered with 
 forest. Where the basaltic rock is found, the soil is generally 
 good ; and I have no doubt that in the course of time these hills 
 will all be cultivated, and thus increase the area which I have as- 
 signed to the district of Kaitaia. I do not include in this the hills 
 in the middle of the island, to which Maunga Taniwa belongs : they 
 are too steep ever to be anything but forest-land. The coast from 
 Waro to Wangape, or False Hokianga, fifteen miles to the northward 
 of Hokiangn, is bold and rocky. Wangape has never been surveyed. 
 Its entrance is about 200 yards wide ; it then expands into a fine 
 basin, surrounded by low wooded hills, but appears to afford no 
 shelter for shipping.* The natives have extensive plantations, and 
 belong to the tribe which lives at Hokianga. 
 
 " Passing from Kaitaia to Hokianga, the bridle-road ascends 
 nearly to the summit of Maunga Taniwa, and then proceeds in a 
 different direction. We leave it here by turning to the westward, 
 and, descending rapidly, r soon arrive in a valley, through which a 
 mountain-stream flows, which in its upper part has formed alluvial 
 land about five or six miles broad and eight miles long. This river 
 is the Mangamuka; its length, from Maunga Taniwa to the point 
 where it joins the estuary called the Hokian^li, is about twenty miles. 
 At the upper part of the valley there is flat and fertile alluvial land, 
 bounded on all sides by wooded hills ; the river, running in a bed 
 
 * The entrance to this harbour is dangerous, from its similarity 
 to that of Hokianga in outward appearance, while the water is so 
 shallow as to be accessible only to very small vessels. The New 
 Zealand Company's ship Tory was nearly lost here in 1830, and in 
 1846, II. M. brig Osprey was totally lost ; both having mistaken 
 the entrance for that of Hokianga.
 
 IIOKIANGA HARBOUR. 393 
 
 of whiustonc pebbles, at some places deepens, at others shoals, nml 
 its buuks bear signs of frequeiit floods. Lower down its depth be- 
 comes more equal, and for about ten miles from its embouchure into 
 the Hokiauga harbour it admits vessels of moderate burden. Tins 
 lower part is bounded on both sides by steep hills covered with 
 kauri-trees, but the best of them have been cut down near the 
 water's edge. So much has been said about Hokiangn, that in 
 speaking of it I may confine myself to a few words. The estuary 
 is almost wholly bounded by steep hills, which, after the kauri has 
 been cut down, will not repay the trouble of cultivation. But the 
 largest timber-trees, those fit for the Royal Navy, are nearly all gone : 
 those that remain are good for logs, but not for spars ; and there- 
 fore the timber-trade alone is not sufficient to repay the settlers. 
 The estuary is joined by several fresh-water tributaries, which have 
 a little cultivable land on their banks ; this is especially the case at 
 the principal stream, and at the Waima near the entrance into the 
 harbour; but the alluvial laud bears a very small proportion to that 
 which is chiyey and useless. The good land is in the hands of the 
 natives. They have cultivated small patches, and thpt portion of 
 the land which they do not make use of might advantageously be 
 occupied by a small number of European peasantry. But the nature 
 of the country forbids any other kind of settlement. The harbour, 
 however, although a bar harbour, can be entered by large vessels, 
 and ns there is a pilot on the heads there is no danger. There are 
 already 200 Europeans settled on the Hokianga, traders and sawyers, 
 who found ample employment as long as fine spars and cheap labour 
 were to be obtained. But all this is now greatly changed.* 
 
 " The first Wesleyau mission-station was established at the 
 Hokianga, and has been so effective that nearly all the natives are 
 Christians. There is a printing-press at Maugungu, from which a 
 few prayer-books have been issued. A Roman-catholic Missionary 
 also resides here during a period of the year. The hills in the 
 neighbourhood of Hokianga consist of argillaceous slate, covered 
 with a white stiff clay, characteristic of the kauri-land. In several 
 places basaltic rock is found underlying the slate. 
 
 " Hokianga is noted for its wet climate, and the thick fogs which 
 envelop it long after the sun has risen above the horizon, whilst iu 
 other parts of the island they are scarcely ever met with. 
 
 " After emerging from the hills which surround Hokianga on all 
 sides, and which are still covered with a primitive forest of pines, 
 we descend into a comparatively lovt-1 country; and about fifteen 
 miles from the head of the harbour, we leave the bush, and the 
 country is open to the Bay of Islands. \Ve may regard the whole 
 country to the westward and northward of the Bay of Islands as a 
 volcanic table-land. If we cuter this table-laud from Hokianga, 
 
 * Many have migrated to Auckland, since Heki's rebellion,
 
 894 WAIMATE. CHURCH MISSION. 
 
 we have to our right the Lake Maupere. In its immediate neigh- 
 bourhood is an ancient crater, which forms a regular cone, with the 
 exception that the western margin has fallen in. Large angular 
 pieces of a very scoriaceous and vesicular lava of different colours, 
 and amygdaloidal basalt, cover its sides and base. With much 
 labour, the natives have collected these rocks into mounds, and 
 have cultivated the black soil between them. The lavas and the 
 crater closely resemble those in the Auvergne. Lake Maupere is 
 about one square mile and a half in extent, and apparently of great 
 depth. In some places its borders are steep, and consist of basaltic 
 lavas. Several conical craters, similar to that above mentioned, 
 only with more perfect funnels in their centres, lie to the eastward 
 of Waimate. The interiors are covered with vegetation, and all 
 appear to have long been in a state of repose. 
 
 "A few miles to the southward of Waimate are some curious 
 thermal springs. 
 
 " The surrounding country, especially to the southward, has to a 
 singular degree the barren and desolate aspect so often observed in 
 places celebrated for their salubrious mineral waters. Scarcely any 
 verdure is seen on the hills of the neighbourhood : it is only in the 
 ravines that the uniform brown tint of stunted fern is interrupted 
 by the green of some sheltered groves. 
 
 " Waimate, which is situated about fifteen miles to the westward 
 of the Bay of Islands, has a very European aspect. A Church has 
 been built, and in its neighbourhood are the houses of the mission- 
 aries, surrounded by rose-trees, and other plants of foreign extrac- 
 tion. There is a great want of flowering plants in New Zealand, 
 and every introduction of such improves the landscape. In the 
 neighbourhood are the poor and slovenly huts of the natives, form- 
 ing rather a painful contrast. However, when I saw the natives in 
 church on the Sunday, most of them were cleanly dressed in the 
 European style; and the work of Eurojieanizing them seemed to 
 be gradually progressing. 
 
 " Waimate was chosen many years ago as the agricultural settle- 
 ment of the Church Missionary Society, and has been ever since 
 the residence of an ordained clergyman. Although convenient as a 
 mission-settlement in many other respects, being in the common 
 road from the Bay of Isliinds to Hokianga, and from the southern 
 to the northern districts of the island, its immediate neighbourhood 
 has no great pretensions in an agricultural point of view ; and the 
 produce of the missionary farm has always been at a very low ebb. 
 In fact, a great deal of the land has been relinquished, for the very 
 sufficient reason that it yielded nothing at all. The soil is a very 
 light dusty volcanic earth. This is the reason why the natives 
 have no plantations here, but prefer the ravines intersecting the 
 plain, or go nearer to the groves, or to the base of the hills wliich 
 bound the table-land, where the soil is more substantial. Some
 
 COUNTRY NEAR BAY OF ISLANDS. 395 
 
 parts of the table-land towards the Keri-keri hare * very superficial 
 stratum of referable earth, and are strewed over with lapilli of 
 fermginoas clay ; where these are found the soil is ^hmut "Mlrtt, 
 Good and bad land, indeed, alternate, the latter rather prevailing. 
 On the banks of the Keri-keri and Waiting! rivers, which discharge 
 IhcaMirlm into the Bar of Islands, the land is of the best descrip- 
 tion; but even there masses of accrue hare to be cleared away, 
 which win require a great expenditure. 
 
 " The Waitaagi forms a picturesque cascade near its outlet into 
 the Bay of Islands. Below the fall, the basaltic rock in the banks 
 of the river shows somewhat of a columnar structure. 
 
 " The neck of land which separates the Waiungi from the Keri- 
 keri is claimed by Mr. Busby, the former consul of New Zealand, 
 and contains some very good land and pasturage. 
 
 " A few rnOes to the northward of Wahnate is the Keri-keri river, 
 where there is a mission-station. The intervening land is very 
 inferior, and especially aronnd the station ; but higher up the Keri- 
 keri it is decidedly good. The Keri-keri is a small stream, forming 
 a fall about two miles above the station, opposite to which there is 
 a rapid, presenting a barrier to the farther ascent of the tide. Small 
 Teasels can come up as high as this point. The estuary of the 
 Keri-keri has the appearance of a broad river, and presents some 
 fine sites for farming establishments on its borders. 
 
 " The waterfall of the river Keri-keri lias a very picturesque effect. 
 The river is only about twenty yards broad, but the fall is over a 
 basaltic escarpment, ninety-five feet in height. This basalt over- 
 hangs a soft formation of a grey volcanic sand, which has been 
 washed away from under it for about thirty feet, so that one can 
 walk behind the falling cascade. The spray of the waters gives 
 rise to a vigorous vegetation all aronnd, and this place was a fa- 
 vourite spot of that excellent botanist, Mr. Cunningham. There is 
 indeed, a greater assemblage of the flora of New Zealand in this 
 neighbourhood than in any other place so near a shipping-place. 
 
 " There are now no natives whatever living on the Keri-keri ; and 
 it seems, therefore, useless to keep up the station. Most of the land 
 on the banks of the river is the property either of the mission or the 
 baM T. '."-. 
 
 " Below the station the basis of the soil is basalti*. It seems as 
 if an immense crust of this rock had been elevated to near the sur- 
 face. To the northward of the Keri-keri, as far as Wangaroa, the 
 land is mostly hilly, covered, as I have already observed, in the 
 middle of the island, with primitive forest. Near the coast almost 
 the whole forest is gone ; herds of cattle and horses feed well upon 
 the young fern and shrubs, although there is no grass-pasturage. 
 Sheep looked in a rather bad condition ; but the principal objection 
 to beep^ farming in New Zealand is on account of the seeds of the
 
 396 THE BAY OF ISLANDS. 
 
 Acoena sanguisorba,* a herb spreading all over the country: these 
 attach themselves so firmly to the wool, that they cannot be sepa- 
 rated in the washing. About half-way between Wangaroa and the 
 Keri-keri, on the outskirts of the forest, we pass an agricultural 
 settlement of a European. Some natives live in the fertile ravines 
 which run off from the hills towards the sea-shore : off the latter 
 are many rocky islets. The shore forms several small bays, of 
 which Mataute is one of the finest. On the slope of the hills, which 
 surround this bay like an amphitheatre, an excellent hard, greyish 
 marble crops out. The bay is about two square miles in extent. 
 On its shore is a native settlement. 
 
 " Between Mataute and Wangaroa there are two other bays of 
 similar description Waio and Tauranga. In the latter, a marly 
 limestone in horizontal strata appears on the side of the hills; it 
 breaks into slabs about an inch thick. 
 
 " On the Bay of Tauranga there is some land cultivated by a 
 European. 
 
 " Along the coast from the Bay of Islands to Wangaroa is found 
 in many places an excellent reddish and variegated marble, alter- 
 nating with whinstone and slates. 
 
 " From Tauranga a path leads to Wangaroa, through a beautiful 
 and fertile valley, sheltered by the hills of the coast from the winds ; 
 in it flows a small river, which discharges itself into the harbour of 
 Wangaroa already described." 
 
 The Bay of Islands is one of the finest harbours in 
 New Zealand: and, previous to the regular colonization 
 of the country, was more resorted to than any other 
 harbour by whaling and other ships, in order to obtain 
 fresh provisions by barter with the tribes of natives 
 who inhabit the neighbouring country in great num- 
 bers. Dr. Dieffenbach says of it: 
 
 " The country which surrounds the harbour consists almost en- 
 tirely of hills, which are steep, although not of any great height, 
 and alternating with ravines, which continue far inland. These 
 hills are formed of a yellow argillaceous stone, and a basaltic rock, 
 and it is only in the narrow ravines that there is a little fertile soil. 
 Even where the coast-hills were formerly covered with forest, it has 
 now disappeared, and is only met with some miles inland. Towards 
 tlig harbour these hills form diminutive bays, inaccessible from the 
 land. The different parts of the harbour are separated by arms of 
 the sea, so that the construction of roads to connect them with each 
 other, and with the interior, is impossible. There is, besides, 
 
 * gee Atyeatp. ]2.'?,
 
 TOWN-SITES. 397 
 
 scarcely sufficient room in any of the bays even for a moderate- 
 sized town, unless placed on the side of a steep Lill. The only ex 
 ceptiou to the mountainous character of the place is the table-laud 
 extending from the Wnitaugi towards the Hokianga and the Keri- 
 keri. But this district, as already observed, cannot be ranked 
 umougst the best portions of New Zealand, and has, moreover, the 
 disadvantage of having no water carriage. Besides this flat district, 
 there is a valley with a considerable extent of excellent land up the 
 Kaua-kaua, an arm of the bay, stretching to the south, into which 
 runs a small fresh-water stream. This valley is in the hands of a 
 large native tribe, who cultivate it very extensively. 
 
 ' The number of whaling and other vessels in the Bay of Islands 
 has much decreased during the last twelve months. This is chiefly 
 owing to the increase of Europeans, who consumed the scanty pro- 
 duce of the region. * * 
 
 " There exists already a little town at Kororarika,* a small cove 
 in the bay, which offers great facilities for shipping, but is difficult 
 of access from the mainland. The same is the case with Russell, 
 the proposed government town, at the mouth of the Kaua-kaua; 
 whilst Victoria, the embryo capital of Mr. Busby, possessing the 
 finest and most level site for a town, and commanding the Waimate 
 table-laud, aud therefore the best communication with the interior 
 and Hokianga, as well as with the districts lying to the northward, 
 has no place for the anchorage of vessels, and is, moreover, open to 
 the whole force of the north easterly winds. 
 
 ' The Kaua-kaua has the aspect of a broad river, bounded by 
 steep and wooded hills. In small nooks on the shore Europeans 
 have erected humble-looking houses. Inns are not wanting, and 
 abundance of fowls, geese, aud ducks render the scene very homely 
 and English-looking." t Chap, xviii. pp. '2'i't to '259. 
 
 The Government Gazette, already quoted at page 376, 
 gave the European population of Russell in 1846 as 
 317 males and 217 females: total, 534. Since that 
 year there are no return?, probably from the migration 
 of the whole population to Auckland during the wars 
 with the natives. 
 
 Of the native population, no census has been pub- 
 lished: but there is no doubt that, next to the country 
 
 * Since totally burnt and plundered by the natives, during John 
 Heke's rebellion, in the >ear 1M~>. 
 
 t The European population of this district has almost entirely 
 abandoned it for Auckland, since the devastation caused by Heke's 
 rebellion. 
 
 M 1C
 
 398 WAIROA RIVER. 
 
 already described near Auckland, the districts depend- 
 ing on the Bay of Islands, and the Kaipara and Hoki- 
 anga harbours, including Kaitaia, are those which con- 
 tain the most dense aboriginal population. 
 
 The same Gazette gives, for the year 1846, the value 
 of Imports at Russell 3430/.; Exports, 198 11.; Cus- 
 toms' Revenue, 447A 7s. 9d.; Shipping, exclusive of 
 coasters Inward, 26 vessels, 6770 tons; Outward, 18 
 vessels, 5534 tons. 
 
 A detachment of the 58th regiment is quartered at 
 Russell, and Major C. Bridge, of that regiment, is Re- 
 sident Magistrate and Deputy Registrar of Births, 
 Deaths, and Marriages, for the district. 
 
 " Proceeding from the bead of the Kaua-kaua to the Wairoa, the 
 principal stream which flows into the harbour of Kaipara on the 
 western coast, we follow the windings of a fresh- water stream, 
 which joins, the inlet of the sea, and on the banks of which the neat 
 and well -tended plantations of the natives indicate a growing 
 industry. After crossing over some hills we are again led into the 
 valley of the river; and here the eye is attracted by picturesque 
 groups of limestone, which in various shapes crop out at the slope 
 of the neighbouring hills, often resembling ruined castles or towers, 
 sometimes half- concealed amongst beautiful tree-ferns and other 
 trees. The valley forms a basin of alluvial and very fertile soil, as 
 is indicated by the coriaria, draccena, and phormium, which only 
 grow in the best situations. The name of the valley, as well as of 
 the river, is Waiomio. From this point to the part where the 
 Wairoa first begins to be navigable for large boats is a good day's 
 journey. The country consists mostly of low but steep hills, on 
 which here and there are the remains of the former kauri-forest, half 
 burnt and rotten ; but now nearly the whole surface of the region is 
 covered with fern and manuka. The hills alternate with valleys, 
 which, from the stagnation of the waters, are swampy, and contain 
 here and there forests of the kabikatea pine (Dacrydium excelsum). 
 A swampy plain stretches to the eastward as far as the rugged hills 
 of Wangari Bay : it offers some fine situations for farms, and would 
 afford excellent opportunities for forming pasturage by the cultiva- 
 tion of artificial grasses, as the land is rich, and the swampy parts 
 might easily be drained. No natives live here. 
 
 ******* 
 
 " Kaipara Harbour, into which the Wairoa and other rivers fall, 
 seems to me on account of the quantity of timber trees on the 
 shores of the rivers, the length of their navigable course, the extent
 
 KAIPARA HARBOUR. 
 
 of the available alluvial land on tlioir banks, and the inimediiile 
 neighbourhood of the scut of government, Waitcmata to be de- 
 serving of an earl}' attention as a place where capital and labour may 
 be very profitably employed." Dieff'enbach, vol. ii. chap. xix. 
 
 Many shipwrecks, some of them attended with loss 
 of life, and total loss of vessel and cargo, have, how- 
 ever, confirmed the opinion held of the insecurity of 
 Kaipara harbour for large ships. 
 
 Dr. Dieffenbach continues: 
 
 " Kaipara is not a bar-harbour, but R channel-harbour ; it is a 
 large basin, into which a tide, rising ten feet at full and change, 
 rushes with great velocity, which, joined with the narrowness of the 
 channel and our imperfect knowledge of the soundings, certainly 
 occasions great danger. Westerly winds, which blow without in- 
 termission during some portions of the year, and increase the cur- 
 rent setting into the harbour, are another inconvenience, as they 
 prevent ships from leaving the harbour at all times. This, indeed, 
 is the case with all the harbours on the western coast of New Zea- 
 land. Whether the shoals and sand-banks in the offing are shifting 
 is not yet ascertained, but it is not improbable that such is the 
 case. 
 
 " The harbour consists of several arms, which receive streams of 
 fresh water ; the westernmost of these is the Wairoa. At the point 
 where you first fall in with this stream in coming from the Bay of 
 Inlands, and lot) miles from the heads of the harbour, its breadth 
 and depth are those of the Thames at Richmond. It is navigable 
 for canoes about eight miles above this place, where their farther 
 progress is prevented by rapids. The Wairoa rises in the hills, on 
 the northern slope of which the Waima, an arm of the Hokianga, 
 has its source. The Wairoa is soon joined by the Otumaien, ;i 
 river coming from the hills in the neighbourhood of Wangari har- 
 bour, and this receives in its turn the Oropaoa from the northward, 
 and the Kaiwaka and Wakaki from the eastward. Not far from the 
 junction of the Otumatea with the Wniroa, the latter is joined by 
 the Oruawaro, another stream of considerable size, although, as is 
 evident from the breadth of the island at this part from coast to 
 coast, not of any great length. Lower down, the Tapani from the 
 south, and the Kaipara proper, flow into arms of the estuary. The 
 Kaipara proper follows a very serpentine course in amoderate-si/ed 
 valley, formed by the hills which bound the sea-coast between Kai- 
 para and Manukao hut-hours, mid separated from an inlet of the har- 
 bour of Waitematu, in the gulf of IFuuraki, by a piece of land about 
 three miles in breadth, and consisting of low hills, over which the 
 natives frequently dragged their canoes in times of war. Not far 
 from the highest point to which the tide reaches in the Kaipara pro-
 
 400 RIVERS FLOWING INTO 
 
 per, another river joins it, which runs likewise within a very short 
 distance of Waitemata. 
 
 " The banks of all these rivers are bounded by hills of no very 
 great height, which do not generally reach to the banks, and are 
 often more than a mile distant from them ; the banks are level, and 
 consist of a somewhat clayey and fertile soil. The Wairoa con- 
 tinually carries down a quantity of this soil from the higher to the 
 lower parts of the river, in consequence of which its waters have a 
 yellow appearance. In the upper part of its course a beautiful and 
 fertile valley joins it, which begins in the neighbourhood of Hoki- 
 anga. Here the chief Parore lives with his tribe, and cultivates the 
 land. The banks of the Wairoa, with the exception of those parts 
 which are of very recent formation, and of the portions which have 
 been cleared by the natives, are covered with a thick forest of tim- 
 ber-trees of all descriptions, but especially the kauri-pine, which is 
 always in the greatest profusion in hilly situations. I am not ac- 
 quainted with any place in New Zealand where these trees are more 
 plentiful, of greater height and diameter,'and of easier access. The 
 natives are constantly employed in felling and squaring them. The 
 consequence is, that they are well supplied witli all our commodities. 
 One careful chief had collected quite a property from the fruits of 
 his own labour and that of his tribe. As they also cultivate a con- 
 siderable quantity of ground for their own use, and have a surplus 
 quantity for sale, it may easily be foreseen that, if justly treated by 
 their new government, they will prove iu time a valuable and wealthy 
 part of the population of the colony. 
 
 " Small vessels can go up the Wairoa as far as the settlement of a 
 Mr. Stephenson, eighty-five miles from the heads of the harbour, 
 where there is a depth of twelve feet ; but only fifteen miles lower 
 down, at the farm of Mr. Forsyth,* the river has water and a clear 
 channel for vessels of any burden, and also anchorage close in- 
 shore. 
 
 " Timber is likewise found on the banks of all the other tribu- 
 taries, especially of the Otumatea ; and everywhere there is suffi- 
 cient land to enable the colonist to combine agricultural pursuits 
 with the timber trade. 
 
 " The inlet, which is joined by the Kaipara proper, is navigable 
 for large boats as far as the tide runs up. On the hills between 
 Kaipara and Manukao there is much kauri, and the river affords 
 great facilities for conveying the timber down to the sea. It is very 
 serpentine in its course, and forms a number of paddocks of alluvial 
 laud ; these are at present swampy, but a little drainage would effec- 
 tually lay them dry. This low land is here and there covered with 
 
 * Missionary catechist, and sub-protector of Aborigines under 
 Governors Shortland and Fitzroy.
 
 KAII'ARA IIARBOUH. 401 
 
 groves of the kahikatea-pine and the puriri (Vitex littorolis), but in 
 general only feni and ilux grow on it. 
 
 " About forty Europeans live on the Ktxipara estuary and its tri- 
 butaries, 'and about 700 natives. The Europeans claim a great part 
 of the land, and much difficulty will arise in settling their various 
 claims, as the land was sold to them by the Nga-pui, the natives in 
 the Bay of Islands, who formerly conquered and drove away the 
 original proprietors of the soil. But a short time since these latter 
 again returned, and their numbers have increased ; whereas the con- 
 trary has been the case with the Nga-pui, who have silently given 
 up all claims to the laud. 
 
 " There is a Wesleyan missionary-station up the Wairoa, but in 
 an unfavourable place, there being scarcely any natives within a 
 great distance of tlie station. In consequence of this there has not 
 been here that success which in other parts of the island has at- 
 tended the efforts of the missionaries. 
 
 " The general aspect of the Kaipara and its tributaries is far more 
 open, and the quantity of excellent agricultural laud more extensive 
 than at the Hokianga; and, from the abundance of its timber, Kai- 
 para is a place admirably adapted for ship-building establishments ; 
 its advantages, therefore, as a settlement, would seem to outweigh 
 the inconvenience resulting from the harbour being situated on a 
 lee-shore and of somewhat difficult access. 
 
 v " There are many convenient places for a township and for dock- 
 yard establishments on the banks of the Wairoa. 
 
 " The hills in the upper part of that river consist of the stiff 
 whitish clay which characterizes kauri-laud, here and there with a 
 basis of a hard argillaceous slaty rock : lower clown, on the left 
 bank, are steep hillocks of basalt ; on the right shore, and towards 
 the sea-coast, is a soft ferruginous sandstone ; inside and round the 
 northern head the cliffs expose layers of lignite, generally four feet 
 in thickness and superimposed to the height of about twenty feet by 
 a white slightly consolidated sand, which softens by exposxire to the 
 water, and on a near examination is found to consist of decomposed 
 pumicestone, of which large globular boulders are still compact. 
 The lignite consists of half-carbonized wood, besides kauri and pohu- 
 tukaua, remains of tree-ferns, indistinct impressions of smaller ferns, 
 and a kind of typha all which plants are still found in the island. 
 Extensive beds, four feet thick, of the same lignite, and overlaid by 
 sandstone, are likewise found round the south head of Hokianga ; 
 they are then lost beneath the surface, but appear again near the 
 north head of the Kaipara. The intermediate space, near the sea- 
 shore, consists of sand-hills, which are covered with a running carex, 
 and farther inland with a scanty vegetation of fern. In some places 
 hereabouts I met with small cornelians, magnetic ironsaml, and 
 boulders of brown iron-ore. 
 
 M M 2
 
 402 CLIMATE OF THE NORTHERN 
 
 "In order to reach the harbour of Waitemata (Auckland) from 
 Kaipara, we leave the Kaipara proper where it narrows and ceases to 
 be affected by the tide. The road leads over hills of an unpromising 
 aspect, but a most magnificent prospect over the surrounding country 
 opens from them to our view. To the north we overlook the large 
 estuary of the Kaipara ; to the west the valley of the Kaipara proper, 
 its meandering stream, and the hills of Manukao, which are mostly 
 wooded; to the east grotesque-shaped hills on the coast; and by 
 advancing a little farther we overlook the basin of the Mauukao and 
 Waitemata harbour. The entrance into the Gulf of Hauraki is 
 pointed out by Cape Colville, the southern headland, which is about 
 sixty miles distant, and by the Great Earner Island, which appears 
 dimly on the horizon." Chap. xix. pp. 204 to 270. 
 
 The Climate of the Bay of Islands having been care- 
 fully observed by Sir James Clark Ross, during three 
 months that his ships were at anchor in the river Kawa- 
 kawa, it will not be amiss to quote here the principal 
 results of those observations : 
 
 " The following tables* are founded on observations of the tem- 
 perature of the air and surface of the sea, the height of the baro- 
 meter, the direction and force of the wind, nnd the state of the 
 weather recorded every hour during the whole period, and arc di- 
 vided into equal intervals of about thirty days each, for the con- 
 venience of reference as well as of comparison with similar observa- 
 tions made in England ; by which our Emigrants will more readily 
 perceive the change of climate they will have to make allowance for 
 in all their pastoral and agricultural proceedings in their newly- 
 adopted country, 
 
 " The first table comprises the result of each day's observation 
 between the 19th of August and the 17th of September: the mean 
 of which corresponds more nearly with the 2nd of September, which 
 may be considered equal to March of the northern hemisphere ; and, 
 therefore, according to the most natural division of the seasons, is 
 the first month of spring. The mean temperature of the atmosphere 
 is 53 9, and the range of temperature during the period was 60 to 
 ,')!). In England, the mean temperature due to the middle of the 
 month of March is -A:} -!), and the average range is from 00 to 24. 
 The first month of spring in New Zealand has, therefore, a higher 
 temperature by ten degrees than that of England; and although the 
 maximum temperature in both is the same, yet the climate of New 
 Zealand is free from those severe frosts which frequently do so much 
 mischief to advanced vegetation in England. 
 
 * Only the results of the tables are here given, as the tables them- 
 selves would occupy too much space.
 
 t>ART OF NEW ZEALAND. 403 
 
 ' The mean temperature of the dew point, as derived from obser- 
 vations made four times each day viz. at 3 h. and 9 h. A.M., and 
 3 h. and 9 h. P.M., by Mr. Lyall, assistant-surgeon of the Terror 
 was found to be 49-G ; the amount of dryness is, therefore, 4-3 ; 
 the degree of moisture of the air is -*(}'2 ; and the elasticity of vapour 
 is equal to 0'395 inches. The quantity of rain which fell, 11-76 in.; 
 and the greatest fall occurred between 2 A.M. on the 8th, and 2 A.M. 
 on the 9th of September, amounting to ?rb inches ; the barometer 
 during the time being below its mean height, and the wind fresh 
 from the northward ; so far, therefore, as regards the moisture of the 
 atmosphere, there is very little difference between the first spring 
 month of England and of New Zealand ; the degree of dryness in 
 England being 4-9, the moisture of the air -S31, the elasticity of 
 vapour '272, but the quantity of rain amounts to only 1-44 inch. 
 
 " The mean height of the barometer is 30-034, and its range 
 1 "14 inch. The diurnal variations of pressure, commonly called the 
 atmospheric tides, occur at 9 A.M. and 10 P.M., when it is greatest, 
 and 4 A.M. and 3 P.M., when it is least ; and the difference amounts 
 to -041 inch. 
 
 " The mean temperature of the surface of the sea is 56. 
 
 ' In like manner for the next month, the mean temperature of the 
 air derived from the second table, which comprises an abstract of all 
 the observations made between the isth September and l.^tli October, 
 an interval of thirty-one days, and corresponds to the 3rd October, is 
 . r )7 9, an increase of four degrees in the mean temperature of the 
 month as the season advances, whilst that of England increases 
 about six degrees. The range of temperature at New Zealand is 
 from 73 to 39 ; in England, in April, it is 74 to 29. 
 
 " The mean temperature of the dew point is 53, making the 
 amount of dryness 40 9 ; the degree of moisture has consequently 
 varied very little, being -847, the elasticity of vapour, '444, the 
 quantity of rain, 4-1 inches. The greatest fall of rain during the 
 period occurred between five P.M. and midnight, of the 17th of 
 October, amounting to 2-*4 inches, the barometer, being rather 
 below its mean height for the season, and the wind strong from the 
 northward. 
 
 " The mean height of the barometer is 30-118, and its range -738 
 inch. The greatest pressure occurs at nine A.M. and ten P.M., and 
 the least pressure nt four A.M. and four P.M. : the difference amounts 
 to '044 inch. 
 
 " The mean temperature of the surface of the sea is 
 
 " The third table is also derived from all the observations made 
 between the 19th of October and 17th of November, an interval of 
 thirty days ; the mean temperature corresponding to the 3rd of 
 November, has advanced two and a half degrees, to 60 5, and its 
 range is from 74 to 47. In England, the mean temperature of 
 May is 54, and its range from 70 to 33.
 
 404 
 
 CLIMATE OF THE NORTHERN 
 
 " The mean temperature of the dew point is ouly 52, showing 
 that the atmosphere has attained a greater degree of dryuess, being 
 8 5; the moisture of the air is therefore reduced to 0-735. In 
 England, we also find, that in May the temperature of the air still 
 outstrips the advance of vapour, and the atmosphere attains very 
 nearly its state of greatest dryuess ; the mean temperature of the 
 dew point being 46-l ; the degree of dryness is 7 9, and the state 
 of saturation -769. The elasticity of vapour in New Zealand is 
 0-J28, in England, 0-354 inch. 
 
 " The quantity of rain in New Zealand, is 9-5 inches, and the 
 greatest fall occurred on the 8th Novemher, between four A.M. and 
 six P.M., 2'1 inches, the barometer being about its mean height, and 
 the wind from the north. In England the quantity of rain in May 
 is only 1-85 inch. 
 
 " The mean height of the barometer is 29-904, and its range 1-80 
 inch. In the diurnal tides the times of greatest pressure are nine 
 A.M. and eleven P.M., and of least pressure four A.M. and four P.M.: 
 the difference is 032 inch. 
 
 " The next table contains a summary of the condition of the 
 atmosphere during the three mouths of the spring season; and that 
 which follows, derived from Mr. Daniell's Essay upon the Climate 
 of London, is inserted here for the sake of comparison. _ 
 
 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 1 mouth . 
 
 Temperature of 
 the Air. 
 
 Mean Dew 1 
 Point. 
 
 t 
 
 
 Saturation. 1 
 
 l! 
 
 - - 
 
 1 ^ 
 
 Mean 
 Barometer. 1 
 
 Max. 
 
 Min. 
 
 Mean 
 
 66 
 
 39 
 
 53-9 
 
 49-6 
 
 43 
 
 862 
 
 11-76 
 
 395 
 
 30-034 
 
 2 months . 
 
 73 
 
 39 
 
 57-9 
 
 53 
 
 4-9 
 
 847 
 
 4-10 
 
 444 
 
 30-118 
 
 3 months . 
 
 74 
 
 47 
 
 60-5 
 
 52 
 
 8-5 
 
 753 
 
 9-50 
 
 428 
 
 29-904 
 
 74 
 
 39 
 
 57-4 
 
 51-5 
 
 5-9 
 
 817 
 
 25-36 
 
 - 
 
 30-019
 
 PART OF NEW ZEALAND. 
 ENGLAND. 
 
 405 
 
 
 Temperature of 
 the Air. 
 
 I 
 
 Q- 
 
 
 e 
 .2 
 
 
 * 
 
 '5 fa 
 
 ; 
 
 
 
 II 
 
 1 
 
 J3 
 
 ~-= 
 
 g o 
 
 1& 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 Max. 
 
 Min. 
 
 Mean 
 
 3 
 
 Q 
 
 co 
 
 s 
 
 W> 
 
 ^ - 
 
 1 month . 
 
 06 
 
 24 
 
 4:3-0 
 
 (9 
 
 4-9 
 
 831 
 
 1-44 
 
 272 
 
 29-843 
 
 2 mouths . 
 
 74 
 
 29 
 
 49-9 
 
 43-5 
 
 64 
 
 783 
 
 1-79 
 
 322 
 
 881 
 
 3 months . 
 
 70 
 
 33 
 
 54 
 
 46-1 
 
 7-9 
 
 709 
 
 1-85 
 
 354 
 
 898 
 
 
 47 
 
 24 
 
 49-3 
 
 4'4-9 
 
 li-4 
 
 804 
 
 5-08 
 
 310 
 
 29-874 
 
 " The mean temperature for the year in England is 4D 2, which 
 differs very slightly from the mean temperature of the three months 
 of spring. It is not at all improhahle that the mean temperature 
 for the year at New Zealand may, likewise, not differ greatly from 
 that of the spring, and would be rather more than the mean of the 
 above three months, as their respective means refer to the second or 
 third, instead of the middle day of each month. It will, therefore, 
 probably prove to be about 59, or ten degrees above that of 
 England. 
 
 " But we have another mode of arriving at the mean temperature, 
 without apprehension of any considerable amount of error. 
 
 " In accordance with my instructions, and with the view to 
 collect facts relative to the distribution of temperature on land, five 
 pairs of self-registering thermometers, after having been carefully 
 compared with the standard, and their corrections accurately deter- 
 mined, were packed in vessels, and, after being well covered with 
 non-conducting substances, were buried in the earth at the depths of 
 one, three, six, nine, and twelve feet on the 18th of October, and 
 were allowed to remain there until the 12th of November following, 
 so as to insure their acquiring the precise temperature of the soil ; 
 and the mean reading of the two thermometers, when corrected at 
 each of the several depths, was as follows : 
 
 At one foot below the surface was 
 Three feet do. do. 
 
 Six do. do. 
 
 Nine do. do. 
 
 Twelve do. do. 
 
 01-5 
 00-0 
 60-05 
 
 .vj-42 
 
 The temperature of water iu a well at Waimate, thirty five deep,
 
 406 CLIMATE OF BAY OF ISLANDS. 
 
 but with only six feet four inches of water in it, was 58 8. From 
 these facts we may be led to conclude the mean temperature of the 
 year will be found to be very nearly 50. 
 
 " This is, however, a point of considerable importance to have 
 determined accurately, and the observations should be continued 
 throughout several years before this can be accomplished. In look- 
 ing over the hourly observations that were made by the officers of 
 the Erebus and Terror, during the ninety-one days from which the 
 above results have been obtained, I perceive that the mean tempera 
 ture for the whole period would have been arrived at with very great 
 accuracy by a single daily observation, either at 8-30 A.M. or 7 P.M. ; 
 and I doubt not the mean temperature for the year could be ascer- 
 tained to within very small limits of error, by a regular register of 
 the temperature at either or both of those hours, as might best suit 
 the convenience of observers. 
 
 " Besides the great difference of ten degrees of temperature, the 
 quantity of rain which fell during the above interval, exactly five 
 times the amount which falls in the spring, and three inches more 
 than falls during the whole year in England, is very remarkable and 
 well deserving the attention of the agriculturist. 
 
 " It is true this quantity differs materially from that given by Dr. 
 Dieffenbach, being more than double the amount of that which fell 
 at Port Nicholson ; and he further states, that the whole quantity 
 which fell there between April, 1841, and February, 1842, was only 
 34*49 inches; from which he draws the conclusion that New 
 Zealand has a rainy climate, and may be ranked in this respect with 
 several places in England. 
 
 " It certainly proves, as might have been anticipated, that a much 
 greater quantity of rain falls at the northern than at the southern 
 parts of the island ; for the heaviest falls of rain occur during the 
 northerly winds, which come from the equatorial regions fully 
 charged with moisture, of which a large proportion is precipitated as 
 it passes over the first land it meets. 
 
 " Dr. Dieffenbach states the mean temperature of the whole year 
 at Wellington to be 08'2, and the mean temperature of the three 
 months *of spring 57-7, a remarkable accordance with the results 
 and inferences obtained from our observations at the Bay of Islands ; 
 and I can, therefore, with the more confidence quote from him the 
 following table, showing the mean temperature of each mouth, which, 
 although derived from only one year's observations, will probably be 
 not far from the truth, in a climate which seems to possess an 
 unusual degree of uniformity.* 
 
 It will be perceived that the mean of the winter and summer 
 quarter, or that of the autumn and spring quarter, does not differ 
 half a degree from the mean temperature of the year. The coldest 
 
 * See p. 13o for the Table mentioned.
 
 Ni:\V ZEALAND COMPANY. 
 
 407 
 
 mouth is July, the hottest Januaiy, the difference of their mean is 
 only 11-7; whilst in England that of the correspondent month 
 amounts to ^">. 
 
 " At Auckland, which is not more than a hundred miles to the 
 south of the Bay of I>lands, the mean temperature of the year is 59, 
 that of the three summer months 07-2, and of the three winter 
 months 52, their difference being only 1">"2, and their mean six- 
 teutlis of a degree above that of the mean annual temperature." 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Officers of the New Zealand Company. Its Objects and Powers. 
 Summary of Operations up to 1845. Capital and Dividends. 
 Latest Accounts Audited. Agreement of April, 1847. Crown 
 Grunts held. Regulations for Sale of Land, and Passage. 
 M> morandum for Passengers. Colonists' Boom at Xetc Zea- 
 land House. 
 
 GOVEBXOB. 
 
 (Vacant.) 
 
 DEPUTY-GOVEBNOR. 
 
 Hon. Francis Baring, M.P. 
 DIRECTOBS. 
 
 Henry Aglionby Aglionby, Esq., 
 
 M.P. 
 
 John Ellerker Bonlcott, Esq. 
 Lord Courtenay, M.P. 
 Alexander Currie, Esq. 
 The Baron de Goldsmid and da 
 
 Palmeira. 
 
 James Robert Gowen, Esq. 
 Archibald Hastie, Esq., M.I'. 
 Sir Ralph Howard, Bart., M.P. 
 William Hutt, Esq., M.P. 
 Viscount Ingestre, M.P. 
 
 George Lyall, Junior, Esq. 
 
 Ross Donnelly Mangles, Esq., 
 M.P. 
 
 Alexander Nairne, Esq. 
 
 The Lord Petre. 
 
 Jeremiah Pilcher, Esq. 
 
 Sir John Pirie, Bart., Alderman. 
 
 John Abel Smith, Esq., M.P. 
 
 William Thompson, Esq., Al- 
 derman, M.I'. 
 
 Edward Gibbon Wakefleld, Esq. 
 
 George Frederick Young, Esq. 
 
 HEB MAJESTY'S COMMISSIONER. 
 John Welsftml Cowell, Esq. 
 
 AUDITORS. 
 
 Richard Edward Arden, Esq., Russell Ellice, Esq. 
 Joseph Dowsou, Esq. 
 
 BANKERS. 
 Messrs. Smith, Payne, and Smiths.
 
 408 OBJECTS, POWERS, ETC., 
 
 SECRETARY. 
 
 Thomas Cudbert Harington, Esq. 
 CLEBK OF THE COLONISTS' ROOM. 
 
 Mr. William Bowler. 
 AGENTS IN NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 Principal Agent at Wellington Colonel William Wakefield. 
 Resident Agent at Nelson Francis Dillon Bell, Esq. 
 
 Resident Agent at New Plymouth (Vacant). 
 Resident Agent at Dnnedin William Cargill, Esq. 
 
 Office New Zealand House, 9, Broad Street Buildings, London. 
 
 The circumstances under which the New Zealand 
 Company was originated have been sufficiently ex- 
 plained in Chapter IV. 
 
 This Company was incorporated by Royal Charter, 
 bearing date the 12th of February, 1841. The Cor- 
 poration was declared to be 
 
 " Established for the purpose of purchasing and acquiring, settliug, 
 improving, cultivating, letting, selling, granting, alienating, mortgag- 
 ing, charging or otherwise dealing with and making a profit of lands, 
 tenements and hereditaments in our said colony (New Zealand) and 
 its dependencies, and of laying out settlements and towns, and of 
 working therein all mines, pits and quarries, and all minerals and 
 metals, and for the further purpose of conveying or contracting for 
 the conveyance of emigrants to any their place of destination in our 
 said colony and its dependencies, subject however to such regulations 
 respecting the conveyance of the said emigrants as it shall from time 
 to time seem fit to us, our heirs and successors, to make and promul- 
 gate in that behalf, and of furnishing to emigrants all things that 
 may be deemed requisite and suitable for their immediate settlement 
 in our said colony, and of exporting the produce of the said colony 
 and its seas, and of importing such articles as may be required for 
 the furtherance of any of the purposes aforesaid, and for the further 
 purpose of lending and advancing money on the security of laud and 
 other property situate in our said colony and its dependencies ; Pro- 
 vided always that it shall not be lawful for the said company to cany 
 on the business of banking by keeping cash of or for any person pay- 
 able on demand, or by borrowing, owing, or taking up money on their 
 bills or notes payable on demand or at any less time than twelve 
 months from the borrowing thereof, or for a less sum than one hun- 
 dred pounds, or in anywise to engage in any commercial operations 
 in the United Kingdom or in our colonial possessions for the pur- 
 pose of making a profit other than as aforesaid : And for the further
 
 OF THE NEW ZEALAND COMPANY. 409 
 
 purpose of executing, erecting, contracting for and subscribing to- 
 wards such public works and buildings, and also of establishing and 
 maintaining, solely or conjointly with others, such public institutions 
 for the improvement of our said colony and the comfort and well- 
 being of the said emigrants as may be proposed, undertaken, or sanc- 
 tioned by us, our heirs or successors, or the governor, lieutenant- 
 governor or person administering the government, or by any person 
 duly authorized in that behalf in our said colony and its depen- 
 dencies." 
 
 The Capital was fixed at 300,0007. in 251. shares, 
 with power to increase it to 1,000,000/.; and with 
 power also to borrow not exceeding 500,OOOA on mort- 
 gage. 
 
 A Supplementary Charter, dated 4th of August, 
 1843, empowered the Directors, with the consent of a 
 special Court of Proprietors, to borrow not exceeding 
 500,000/., and to issue debentures. 
 
 In a petition presented to the House of Commons by 
 the late Mr. Joseph Somes, then Governor of the Com- 
 pany, on the 16th of April, 1845,* (see page 78,) and 
 in which the proceedings of the Company up to that 
 date are very clearly narrated, they make the following 
 statements: 
 
 " At the end of the first quarter of 184:3, the Government had, for 
 the sum of 39,(55")/., sold 5,108 acres of land, yielding a general 
 average of 11. 13s. 5d. an acre. At the same date, we had disposed 
 of v!^4,?20 acres for 280,840/., or at a general average of 11. . r >s. an 
 acre. 
 
 " During the brief period extending from the commencement of 
 our operations in 183!) to their suspension in 1H43, we had intro- 
 duced into the colony nearly 9000 persons. The Government, ex 
 elusive of the Convict Boys, under Mil). 
 
 " We had established three separate settlements. Our emigra- 
 tion had been carried on under the immediate inspection of the offi- 
 cers of the Government, and conducted in such a way as to cull forth 
 their unqualified praise. A large amount had been expended by us 
 in public works ; in constructing roads and bridges : in providing 
 
 * This petition, with several other documents relating lo the same 
 subject, was published in the Appendix to a Report /' tin- New 
 Zealand Debate on the llth, IVtli. and 10//< i,f June, lyJ/, by 
 Murray, iu the same year. 
 
 N N
 
 410 OPERATIONS AND ACCOUNTS 
 
 facilities of access to the ports ; and in extensive surveys, as well as 
 in expeditions for the purpose of exploring the interior. We bad 
 made a provision for religious establishments a portion of the 
 origiual scheme of our settlements. In each successive scheme, 
 we had devoted to this provision a larger and larger proportion ; 
 proceeding always upon the principle of supplying funds, without 
 distinction of denominations, in amounts equal to the sums raised 
 hy the parties themselves. Upon this principle, the majority of our 
 settlers being members of the Church of England, the creation of a 
 New Zealand Bishopric had been mainly effected by our efforts : and 
 in the hope that our settlements would receive the advantage of the 
 personal residence and example of the Bishop, our contributions, 
 given upon the same principle, had formed a large portion of its 
 earliest endowment. Other of our projects for the benefit of the 
 colony had been frustrated by a refusal of the co-operation of the 
 Government." * * * * 
 
 " We have obtained awards for above seven hundred thousand 
 acres of land ; have claims for several hundred thousand acres more; 
 and have come under obligations to alienate above two hundred 
 thousand ; but we cannot obtain our title-deeds for a single acre. 
 
 " We have entered into four successive agreements with Her Ma- 
 jesty's Government ; on the faith of these agreements we have ex- 
 pended nearly six hundred thousand pounds on public objects : we 
 have scrupulously fulfilled every condition on our part ; but as yet, 
 not one condition has been fulfilled on the part of the Government." 
 
 The capital of the Company as yet paid up, amounts 
 to 200,000. The shareholders have received the fol- 
 lowing dividends, from the earliest foundation of the 
 Company up to the present time. 
 
 1. September, 1840 5 per cent. 
 
 2. April 23, 1841 10 
 
 3. November, 1841 5 
 
 4. April 6, 1842 5 
 
 ft. October 10, 1842 2 
 
 6. May 30, 1843 
 
 7. October 19, 1843 
 
 Total from 1839 to 1848... 32 per cent. 
 
 In 1846, the Act was passed, authorizing the loan 
 of lOOjOOO/. to the Company by Her Majesty's Govern- 
 ment, (see page 79.) 
 
 In April, 1847, the following accounts were pub- 
 lished by the New Zealand Company:
 
 OF THE NEW ZEALAND COMPANY. 
 
 411 
 
 X X 
 
 
 
 *< r 
 
 ._ ^ 
 
 fl 
 
 7C 
 
 _r 
 
 " r 
 
 - - 
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 <5 
 
 r - 
 
 
 
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 [ 
 
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 ~ - - / 
 
 - 
 
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 S.r r: 
 
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 r. 
 
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 CT 
 
 
 
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 w e*i. <= 
 
 
 
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 sat s 
 
 m ^i * ^ ' *. 
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 g 
 
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 => '- 
 
 -r 
 
 ~ = z = = z z 
 
 
 
 J? 
 
 * *3 ^ ft 
 
 - 
 
 
 
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 " -^ S 
 
 
 
 
 c 
 
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 9 * 
 
 llll* 
 
 a'- z ; 
 
 I 
 
 r - - - - 
 r z Z 
 
 *t x . ^ -- . ~- 1 
 
 I 
 
 fl 
 
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 ^ 
 
 
 s" 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 ~ - J - 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^ ~ 7'^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 JJIilJ 
 
 ; 
 
 
 ^ !?l 
 
 
 ; ! 5 5 : 5 
 
 
 
 
 B *'ll 
 
 
 
 
 ' r 
 
 - ; f | 
 
 
 
 
 r "^ 
 
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 f 
 
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 -= -= 2 ; - 
 
 
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 412 
 
 ACCOUNTS OF THE 
 
 III. OBLIGATIONS AND ENGAGEMENTS exclusive of those to the 
 Purchasers of the Company's Lands and its Shareholders, and 
 of Open Accounts in New Zealand. 
 
 Open accounts and contingencies in England, say 
 Debentures not yet psiid off 54,000 
 
 10,000 
 
 their respectively falling due j 
 
 2,025 2 
 
 50 025 
 
 
 
 n 
 
 Advance by H. M.'s Government 
 
 
 80,000 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Investments and securities not immediately avail--) 
 
 able, but ultimately applicable to the reduction > 12,625 2 
 of liabilities, 1 2,938/. 3s. id., say J 
 
 Balance 134,000 
 
 The above are taken from the Appendix to the 
 Twenty-second Report of the New Zealand Company, 
 pages 14 to 17; they are dated the 23rd of April, 1847, 
 and signed by GEORGE BAILEY, Accountant. 
 
 IV. RECEIPTS AND EXPENDITURE of the NEW ZEALAND COM- 
 PANY, from the 6th of April, 1840, to the 5th of April, 1847. 
 
 
 
 AMOUNT IN HAND on the Cth of April, 1846 viz.: 
 
 s. d. s. d. 
 
 Cash in the house 30 7 8 
 
 Ditto at the Bankers' 4,566 18 2 
 
 Ditto with the Lay Association of the \ 
 
 Free Church of Scotland, &c., to L 530 12 
 
 be hereafter accounted for J 
 
 Bills receivable . . 5,229 2 
 
 RECEIPTS. 
 Interest on investments, fees on transfers, and \ 
 
 sundries ; J 
 
 Loans raised upon debentures, in addition to! 
 
 previous 76,500 J 
 
 Loan from Her Majesty's Government (part of) 
 
 100,000 authorized by the Act of Parliament)]" 
 Loan from the Bankers, in anticipation of the ) 
 
 Loan last mentioned / 
 
 10,357 3 
 
 203 6 
 
 10,000 
 
 80,000 
 
 5,000 
 
 
 
 Total Receipts 105,560 6 5
 
 NEW ZEALAND COMPANY. 
 
 -113 
 
 EXPENDITURE. 
 
 HOME ESTABLISHMENT AXD EXPKSSES. 
 
 Rent, taxes, insurance, repairs, 
 bouse expenses, and sundries 
 
 Advertising and printing, books and 
 maps, stamps, stationery, postage, 
 carriage of parcels, and incidental 
 expenses 
 
 Furniture aud fixtures 
 
 Salaries of officers & others on the") 
 Company's Home Establishment/ 
 
 Law aud parliamentary expenses .... 
 
 538 1 2 
 
 1,068 7 7 
 
 6 
 1,243 
 
 TOG 
 
 3,652 5 2 
 
 EMIGRATION SERVICE. 
 Allowance towards a cabin passage to Nelson, and\ 
 
 expenses incidental to ships despatched to New I . , fi 
 
 Zealand' under the Company's sanction and [ 
 subject to its regulations, &c. . . j 
 
 COLONIAL EXPENSES. 
 Bills drawn from New Zealand, and \ 
 
 expenses &c. incidental to the J- 4,410 4 7 
 
 Colony, paid in England J 
 
 Proportion of salaries of Colonial | ,. . , I 
 
 officers paid in England / 
 
 5,163 18 8 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS. 
 New Edinburgh deposits returned .. 12 
 
 Interest on debentures 3,354 12 9 
 
 Debentures paid off 32,500 
 
 Interest on loans, on New Edin- \ 
 
 burgh deposits returned, and y 1,172 6 
 
 sundries j 
 
 Loans from bankers returned .... 20,000 
 Land purchased by the Company af| 
 
 Wellington and Nelson, as a j- 2,247 3 3 
 
 private estate ) 
 
 59,186 2 
 
 Total Expenditure 68,110 19 4 
 
 Cash in the house 21 4 1 
 
 Ditto at the Bankers' 1 2,434 7 B 
 
 Ditto with Overend, Guruey, & Co.,\ 
 
 against the Bankers' liability on ! , . ^^ () ^ 
 bills to be druwn from New j 
 
 Zealand J 
 
 N N 2
 
 4J4 
 
 ACCOUNTS OF THE 
 
 s. d. s. d. 
 
 Brought forward 27,400 11 9 68,110 19 4 
 
 Cash with the Lay Association of \ 
 
 the Free Church of Scotland, &c.,L 53012 
 to be hereafter accounted for..J 
 
 Promissory Notes 9,463 3 4 
 
 37,449 7 1 
 
 Total 
 
 105,000 6 5 
 
 N.B. Of the Guarantee given by the Company's Bankers to 
 meet Colonial Bills, there remains an unexhausted Balance of 
 15,938 7s. Orf. 
 
 (Signed) GEORGE BAILEY, Accountant. 
 
 We hereby certify that we have carefully examined the foregoing 
 Accounts, and we declare the same to be correct. 
 
 RICHARD EDWARD ABDEN,? 
 (Signed) Jo6EpH DowsoK> '^ 
 
 , 
 Auditors. 
 
 V. ASSETS AND LIABILITIES of the NEW ZEALAND COMPANY 
 on the 5th of April, 1847. 
 
 ASSETS. 
 
 Cash in the house 21 
 
 Ditto at the Bankers' 12,434 
 
 Ditto with Overend, Gurney, & Co., 
 against the Bankers' liability on 
 bills to be drawn from New 
 
 Zealand 
 
 Ditto with the Lay Association of 
 the Free Church of Scotland, &c. 
 to be hereafter accounted for. . 
 Promissory Notes 9,463 
 
 Estimated value of books and J 
 maps, plans of the settlements, r 
 and furniture and fixtures . . . . / 
 
 Balance in favour of the Company? 
 at Wellington, 31st March, 1H4C>$ 
 
 Balance in favour of the Company! 
 at Nelson, 31st March, 1846. / 
 
 15,000 
 
 530 12 
 3 4 
 
 Investments .................. 3,470 
 
 Debts due to the Company ........ 4,226 15 5 
 
 1,346 18 1 
 
 r, r> o Q n 
 
 ,. ,, ftf . n t 
 ' dB1 
 
 s* d. 
 
 37,449 7 1 
 
 7,701 15 5
 
 NEW ZEALAND COMPANY. 415 
 
 ASSETS continued. 
 
 s. d. s. d. 
 
 Brought forward 17,119 6 2 45,151 2 6 
 
 Balance iu favour of the Company \ 
 
 at New Plymouth, 31st March, L 4,004 1G 9 
 
 1846 J 
 
 Balance in favour of the Company! , a . r 
 at Otngo, 31st March, 1840 . . J J)H4 ' 
 
 ' 22,969 3 7 
 
 Total Assets, exclusive of the Company's Lands 08,120 6 1 
 
 LIABILITIES. 
 Liabilities for Expenditure in the 
 
 Nelson Settlement, under Condi- 
 tions of. Sales of Land viz. : 
 For Emigration, (deducting"! 
 
 J !)'.)/. lO.v. 4rf. taken as the esti I .^ , .^ , 
 
 mated expenditure on emigra- [ 
 
 lion atNelson for the year 1 847 ) j 
 
 Religious uses 3,114 2 
 
 Establishing a College 8,180 
 
 Steam Navigation 10,1)13 8 
 
 24,021 2 
 
 Due to sundry persons 10,002 10 9 
 
 Debentures issued on security of unpaid-up capital! . , nnn n n 
 
 of 100.000/ ". J 
 
 Loan from Her Majesty's Government 80,000 
 
 Bills to be drawn from the Colony by the Com- 1 j , ,,^. ,g o 
 
 pany's principal ngeut J 
 
 Bills drawn from the Colony under acceptance . . 1,537 8 10 
 
 Unclaimed dividends 110 
 
 Interest on debentures, unpaid 73 12 6 
 
 Capital paid up 200,000 
 
 Total liabilities on this date :?*:.,:) 4.') 18 3 
 
 Total assets as above, exclusive of tho Com] any'sl 08120 6 1 
 lands j 
 
 Balance,subjecttodcductionoftheCompany's lands 317,225 12 2 
 
 (Signed) GEOBGE BAILEY, Accountnnt. 
 
 \Ve hereby certify that we have carefully examined the foregoing 
 Recounts, and we do declare the same to be correct. 
 
 (Signed) KICHABD EDWARD ABDEK,? 
 
 JOSEPH DOWSON, J
 
 416 
 
 AGREEMENT OF APRIL, 1847, 
 
 VL LAND ACCOUNT of the NEW ZEALAND COMPANY on the 
 5th of April, 1847. 
 
 Land to which the claim of the Company is recognised \ Acres. 
 
 by Her Majesty's Government, as stated in Mr. j- 1,300,000 
 Hope's Letter of the 28th October, 1 845 J 
 
 Deduct, laud sold in the several settlements viz. 
 
 At Wellington 
 
 Sold prior to 5th April, 1846 
 
 At Nelson, 
 
 Sold prior to 5th April, 1840 
 Ditto ditto, but not before") 
 brought to account. . . . J 
 
 At New Plymouth, 
 
 Sold prior to 5th April, 184G 
 Ditto ditto, but not before") 
 brought to account . . . . J 
 
 Acres. 
 
 108,489 
 351 
 
 14,158 
 
 Acres. 
 127,959f 
 
 108,840 
 
 14,20H 
 
 Balance, Unsold Acres 1,048,091$ 
 
 Add, land purchased by the Company as its 
 private estate viz. 
 
 At Wellington 3,938 
 
 At Nelson, 
 
 Purchased prior to 5th 7 
 
 April, 1846 ., J 
 
 Purchased since 5th April, 1 .,, 
 
 1846 
 
 20,553 
 
 24,49 1^ 
 
 Total .............. Acres 1,07 3,482 
 
 (Signed) 
 
 GEOBGE BAILEY, Accountant. 
 
 In April, 1847, the agreement already briefly de- 
 scribed at page 82, and which was afterwards sanctioned 
 by the Act 10 and 11 Viet., cap. 112, took place be- 
 tween the New Zealand Company aad Her Majesty's 
 Government. The following were its articles:
 
 WITH H. M.'S GOVERNMENT. 417 
 
 " 1. It is agreed that a Commissioner be appointed by Her Majesty 
 to be a Commissioner for the affairs of the New Zealand Company. 
 " That the name oi' the person selected by Her Majesty be sub- 
 mitted to the Directors of the New Zealand Company, and the 
 appointment take place on their signifying their approval. 
 
 " That this Commissioner attend all Meetings of the Directors, 
 and have access to all books, papers, and accounts of the Company, 
 and that the Company shall agree that no Resolution shall ever be 
 adopted at any Meeting of the Directors without the assent of the 
 Commissioner. 
 
 " That the Commissioner be paid a salary of Fifteen Hundred 
 Pounds a year ont of the funds of the Company. 
 
 " 2. That during the period for which the present arrangement 
 shall last, the Government shall give up to the Company the entire 
 and exclusive disposal of all Crown Lands, and the exercise of the 
 Crown's right of pre-emption of lands belonging to the Natives, in 
 the Southern Government of New Zealand ; and undertake during 
 such period to execute any grants, leases, or mortgages, for which 
 the Court of Directors and Commissioner shall engage. 
 
 " it. That during three years commencing the Oth of April 
 ultimo, the Government shall engage to place at the disposal of the 
 Company, during the first year such sum of not more than Twenty- 
 eight Thousand Pounds over and above any sum now payable to the 
 Company under any former loan, during the second year such sum 
 not exceeding Seventy-two Thousand Pounds, and during the third 
 year such sum not exceeding Thirty-six Thousand Pounds, as 
 shall be required by the Company and the Commissioner from time 
 to time, for the purpose of discharging the existing liabilities of the 
 Company to an extent not exceeding Seventy-nine Thousand Pounds, 
 and of conducting its colonizing operations. 
 
 " That, all sums accruing to the Company in each year, beyond 
 those which it is bound to expend for the benefit of the purchasers 
 of its lands, shall be expended in furtherance of the general objects 
 of the Company, with the view of diminishing the amount of advances 
 which may be required from Her Majesty's Government. 
 
 " That, during that period no interest shiill accrue from any debt 
 to the Government, nor for any claim to compensation on the part of 
 the Company- 
 
 " That during the first year no dividend shall be paid to the pro- 
 prietors of the Company's stock ; nor any in cither of the two fol- 
 lowing years, without the express sanction of Her Majesty's Govern- 
 ment. 
 
 " That the Company shall at once give up all claim to lands in 
 the neighbourhood of Auckland, and take the whole amount awarded 
 to it elsewhere. 
 
 " 4. That if the Company shall be in a condition, at the end of 
 the three years, to continue its operations, the present arrangement
 
 418 CROWN GRANTS OF LAND 
 
 with respect to Heads 1 and 2 shall continue, and be made per- 
 manent either by a new Charter or by Act of Parliament, upon the 
 Company agreeing to such restriction on its disposal of land, divi- 
 dends, and application of funds, as shall then be agreed upon 
 between the Company and Her Majesty's Government. 
 
 " That the Company shall, in that case, abandon all claim to 
 compensation from the Government. 
 
 " That all advances already made, or within the period of three 
 years to be made to the Company by the Government shall, in that 
 case, be constituted as the Company's debt, the principal of which 
 the Company shall be bound to repay by an annual payment of not 
 less than one-fourth of its clear profits after payment of all ex- 
 penses. 
 
 " 5. That if, at the end of the three years, the Company shall be 
 unable to continue its operations, Her Majesty's Government shall 
 take the Company's assets, together with the liabilities contracted by 
 it to third parties during that period with the assent of the Com- 
 missioner, and any debt which may still be due from it to the Nelson 
 settlers. 
 
 " That all debts due from the Company to the Government shall 
 be remitted, in consideration of the Company's admitted claim on the 
 Government. 
 
 " That the lands now belonging to the Company, consisting of 
 1,(M8,9!)1 acres awarded to it and as yet unsold, together with 
 24,491^ acres held by it in virtue of purchase within its settlements, 
 shall be taken by the Government at the rate of five shillings iiu 
 acre. 
 
 " That the Company shall be entitled to payment of the sum so 
 due to it, together with interest at the rate of three and a half per 
 cent, thereon, out of the proceeds of all returns over and above the 
 outlay for surveys and emigration, accruing from the sale of Crown 
 lauds in New Zealand, but not from any other source. 
 
 " That the New Zealand Company shall thereupon be forthwith 
 dissolved, except for the purpose of receiving such annual payment. 
 
 " 0. That neither the Crown nor the New Zealand Company 
 shall, in any part of New Zealand, sell any lands not previously sold 
 by them, for any sum less than twenty shillings an acre, nor expend 
 less than ten shillings an acre of the proceeds of such sale in carrying 
 out emigrants." 
 
 The three years mentioned will terminate in April, 
 1850. 
 
 The Company now possess Crown Grants for 400,000 
 acres of land in the Otago district, and 278,000 acres 
 in the Wellington and Porirua districts; in all, 678,000 
 acres: and it is expected that further grants of land
 
 HELD BY THE NEW ZEALAND COMPANY. 419 
 
 in the Nelson and New Plymouth districts may by 
 this time have been received by the Company's agents. 
 But at present, they are not offering any land for sale, 
 either in this country or in the Colony, except that 
 comprised in the Otago settlement, the arrangements 
 for which have been detailed at page 315. It is under- 
 stood, however, that they have actually under con- 
 sideration the regulations according to which land in 
 ah 1 their settlements shall be so offered and licences for 
 pasturage granted, both here and in New Zealand. 
 When finally settled, such regulations will be obtain- 
 able on application at New Zealand House. 
 
 Except to the Otago settlement, the Company are 
 not now granting free passages to emigrants. In that 
 particular case, as will have been remarked at page 320, 
 rule 25, the selection of emigrants lies entirely with 
 the " Association of Lay Members of the Free Church 
 of Scotland for promoting the settlement of Otago." 
 The Company have recently been assisting a few 
 labouring emigrants to reach the Colony, giving the 
 preference among the applicants " to those who con- 
 tribute most towards the passages of themselves and 
 families, provided that in all other respects they are 
 equally eligible.'' 
 
 The following are the prices and conditions of pas- 
 sages to Neic Zealand by the passenger-ships of the 
 Company, which sail every two months. They are 
 always first-class ships; and the arrangements made 
 for the health and comfort of all on board have in- 
 variably been such as to gain the approbation of the 
 Government Superintendent of emigration, as well as 
 that of all visitors to them, whether at their departure 
 from Great Britain, or at their arrival in the Colony.
 
 420 REGULATIONS AND 
 
 " RATES OF PASSAGE, PROVISIONS INCLUDED. 
 
 
 Chief 
 
 
 
 
 
 Cabin, 
 
 Fore 
 
 Steerage 
 
 Steerage 
 
 
 'Tween 
 
 Cabin. 
 
 Berth. 
 
 Cabin. 
 
 
 Decks. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Guineas. 
 
 Guineas. 
 
 Guineas. 
 
 Guineas. 
 
 Each person 14 years 1 
 old and upwards . . ) 
 
 45 
 
 25 
 
 15 
 
 20 
 
 Each child 7 years old \ 
 and under 14 . . .) 
 
 27 
 
 18 
 
 9 
 
 12 
 
 Each child 1 year old] 
 and under 7 . . . J 
 
 18 
 
 10 
 
 G 
 
 8 
 
 Infants under 1 year old 
 
 *"~~ 
 
 ~~~ 
 
 
 ~~ 
 
 " A separate agreement must be entered into with respect to Stern 
 and Poop Cabins. 
 
 " A deposit is required of one-half the passage money, to be 
 paid on securing the passage, and the remainder one day previous to 
 embarkation. 
 
 " Freight is allowed free of charge, in the proportion of half 
 a ton, or twenty cubic feet, to each adult passenger, for luggage 
 only ; and extra freight, at the discretion of the Directors, at the 
 rate of 50s. per ton measurement; 25s. per ton dead-weight ; and 
 special articles as may be agreed on. 
 
 " An experienced surgeon is appointed, and medicines and medical 
 comforts provided by the Company. 
 
 " A milch-cow is put on board for children of all classes, invalids, 
 and the chief-cabin; some spices, and other extras for the chief- 
 cabin, including the chief-cabin children ; and yeast for converting 
 a portion of the flour into bread for the same. 
 
 " The several articles of diet are varied from time to time, under 
 the direction of the surgeon, so as to promote the health and comfort 
 of the passengers, especially of children. Every article is of the best 
 quality, and examined by the Compam's inspector before shipment. 
 
 " The Commander of the vessel is allowed to lay in, at his own 
 expense, and to supply to the chief and fore-cabin passengers, 
 moderate quantities of the following articles, at the rates respectively 
 stated viz. 
 
 " Port wine 3s. Orf. per bottle. 
 
 " Sherry 3*. Qd. 
 
 "Ale 10</. 
 
 " Porter 1(W. 
 
 but no spirituous liquors are permitted to be sold on board, of any 
 kind whatever.
 
 MEMORANDA FOR PASSENGERS. 
 "WEEKLY DIETARY. 
 
 I'll 
 
 ARTICLES. 
 
 Children 
 of all 
 OHM* 
 
 Chief 
 Cabin. 
 
 Fore 
 Cabin. 
 
 Steerage 
 Cabin and 
 Berth. 
 
 Prime India Beef . . 
 Prime Mess Pork . . 
 Preserved Meat, or Fi>h 
 Fresh Meat .... 
 Biscuit 
 
 J 3 Ibs. 
 
 IJlb. 
 If Ib. 
 
 1 4 Ib. 
 
 10 oz. 
 
 2 oz. 
 
 ICo'z. 
 2 "ox. 
 
 8 oz. 
 
 See ttlotr 
 14 qts. 
 
 lib. 
 2 Ibs. 
 
 -libs. 
 
 34 Ibs. 
 3 Jibs. 
 
 IJlb. 
 
 Jpint 
 IGoz. 
 4 oz. 
 8 oz. 
 8oz. 
 20 oz. 
 4 oz. 
 4 oz. 
 2 oz. 
 ioz. 
 4 oz. 
 1 pint 
 
 See below 
 
 I ft. 
 
 2J Ibs. 
 
 1 -4 ibs. 
 r> ibs. 
 
 3|lbs. 
 1J Ib. 
 
 Jpint 
 1-2 oz. 
 4 oz. 
 8oz. 
 
 1C oz. 
 3 oz. 
 3 oz. 
 2 oz. 
 
 + OZ. 
 
 4 oz. 
 4 pint 
 
 24 qts. 
 
 41b. 
 Hlb. 
 Hlb. 
 
 H Ibs. 
 1| Ib. 
 l| Ibs. 
 
 1 pint 
 8oz. 
 4 oz. 
 8 oz. 
 
 1-2 oz. 
 2 oz. 
 2 oz. 
 2oz. 
 ^ oz. 
 | oz. 
 4 pint 
 
 21 qts. 
 
 Flour 
 
 Rice, Sago, or Out meal 
 Preserved Potatoes, if 
 obtainable ; if not. 
 Rice, &c., to be sub- 
 stituted . . . . 
 Preserved Carrots . . 
 Peas 
 
 Raisins . . 
 
 Suet 
 
 Butter 
 
 Cheese 
 
 Sugar ...... 
 
 Tea 
 
 C'oflee 
 
 Suit 
 
 
 Mustard 
 
 Vinegar or Pickles . . 
 Tamarinds, Marmalade, 'I 
 or Treacle. . . . J 
 
 Milk 
 
 Witter 
 
 
 MEMOBAXDUM FOB PASSENGERS. 
 
 " The ships sail on the days appointed ; the comfort of individuals 
 during the voyage very much depends upon the arrangements made 
 l.y tLrii)<flvrs before embarkation ; exactness and punctuality are 
 Indi-ipensable. 
 
 -The usual length of the voyage is about four months, or 1'20 
 days, nnd at whatever season of the year it may be made, the pas- 
 sengers have to pass through Loth very hot and very cold weather, 
 and should therefore be prepared for both. Such articles should be 
 O
 
 422 MEMORANDA FOR PASSENGERS 
 
 selected, whether of clothing or of furniture, &c., as are likely to be 
 useful in the colony, and as occupy least space. 
 
 " All luggage must be alongside, and cleared, previous to the day 
 fixed for leaving the docks. Each article should be distinctly marked 
 with the name of the owner, and whether it is to be put into his 
 cabin or the hold. In the cabin everything should be elected or 
 otherwise secured before the ship begins to move; and, if possible, 
 nothing whatever be left to be done at the last moment. 
 
 " Clearances, dock, and other charges, and the expense of reaching 
 the port of embarkation, are required to be paid by the passengers 
 themselves. 
 
 " No spirits or gunpowder are allowed to be taken on board. 
 
 " CHIEF-CABIN. 
 
 " The passengers provide their own furniture, bedding, and what- 
 ever else they consider necessary within their cabins. 
 
 " The Company or the owners of the ship supply everything that 
 is required for the table, such as plate, linen, glass, &c., as well as 
 provisions according to the established dietary as stated above. 
 
 " FOBE-CABIN. 
 
 " Berths are constructed in each cabin, but the passengers find 
 bedding and everything else for use during the voyage, excepting 
 mattrasses, bolsters, provisions, and cooking utensils. 
 
 "8TEEBAGE. 
 
 " Mattrasses, bolsters, provisions, and cooking utensils are found 
 by the Company; but blankets, sheets, and coverlets are not sup- 
 plied, and of these the passengers must provide a sufficient stock for 
 themselves and their families, at the rate of two blankets, six pairs 
 of sheets, and a coverlet for each bed. They must also bring their 
 own towels, soap, knives and forks, tin or pewter plates, spoons, and 
 drinking mugs. 
 
 "The passengers must bring their own clothing; as a general 
 rule, it may be stated, that the more abundant the stock the better 
 for health and comfort ; and all parties are particularly desired to 
 observe that they will not be allowed to embark, unless they provide 
 themselves with a sufficient supply for their health during the voyage. 
 The lowest quantity should consist of the following viz. 
 
 " Two complete suits of outer clothing, including two pairs of 
 shoes ; and one dozen changes of under clothing, including stockings. 
 
 "Each family should furnish itself with two canvas clothes' bags, 
 as the heavy boxes and chests will be put away in the hold, and 
 there will only be access to them once in every three or four weeks. 
 
 " The whole quantity of luggage for each adult passenger must 
 not measure more than 20 cubic or solid feet. It should be divided 
 into two or three boxes of not more than 2$ or 3 feet long, by about
 
 AND COLONISTS. 423 
 
 -20 inches wide and 18 inches high, for the convenience of being 
 more easily moved and got at. 
 
 " Extra freight mnst be paid for I'M London, at the rate of fifty 
 shillings a ton. A great saving can be made by packing close, and 
 not shipping boxes half filled. 
 
 It is expected that, for the sake of themselves and of all on board, 
 the passengers will pay the readiest attention, throughout the voyage, 
 to the rules of the ship and the suggestions and regulations of the 
 surgeon."' 
 
 The above regulations and memoranda are dated 
 1st May 1848. 
 
 At New Zealand House may be inspected maps and 
 drawings of various parts of the Company's territories, 
 and of other districts in New Zealand; and some 
 specimens and drawings of timber, flax, minerals, birds, 
 and other indigenous productions of the Colony. In 
 the Colonists' Room, to which there is free access, will 
 be found files of the local newspapers and of the Aetr 
 Zealand Journal, besides several other publications 
 relating to the Colony, Lloyd's List, and a London 
 morning paper. Every necessary information is also 
 readily afforded, and the greatest civility and attention 
 paid to inquirers, by the Secretary, or by the Clerk of 
 the Colonists' Room. 
 
 In Appendix C will be found a tabular account of 
 all the ships, emigrants, &c., despatched to the Colony 
 by the New Zealand Company, from their first pre- 
 liminary expedition in 1839 up to September, 1848. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Fi-rmcr Local Government of Xew Zealand Erik. Pretext 
 
 rnment possettet equal Evils. List of Ordinance* patted, 
 by the Legislative Council. 
 
 UNTIL 1841, New Zealand was a dependency of New 
 South Wales: ami legislation on all subjects, including 
 that of taxation, was carried on for the whole depen-
 
 424 LOCAL GOVERNMENT 
 
 dency by a Lieutenant-governor, residing at Auckland, 
 and a Council composed of his principal executive 
 officers, (chiefly strangers to the Colonists,) together 
 with two or three non-official members, who were 
 named by the Lieutenant-governor from among the 
 Colonists, and removable by him; but every act of his 
 and of this Council was subject to the approval or dis- 
 allowance of the Governor of New South Wales, as well 
 as to that of the Secretary of state for the Colonies in 
 London. 
 
 In May, 1841, New Zealand became a separate 
 Colony; but the only change that took place was, that 
 this virtually absolute legislative and executive au- 
 thority, subject only to the veto of the Secretary of 
 state in London, was in the hands of a Governor, instead 
 of being in that of a Lieutenant-governor subject to the 
 concurrence of a Governor above him. Nominally, the 
 three senior Magistrates were the non-official members: 
 but the Governor used to place in the commission of 
 the peace, and at the head of the list, those persons 
 whom he wished to appoint to seats in the Council. 
 Nominally, the three non-official members were said to 
 represent the Colonists: but, in the first place, they 
 were out -numbered by a majority of cx-officio members, 
 and by the Governor, who presided, and had, moreover, 
 a casting-vote besides his own; and, in the second 
 place, obnoxious members were at once displaced by 
 the Governor, notwithstanding their seniority, by the 
 process above described. 
 
 At each of the settlements, there were stipendiary 
 Magistrates, who had greater power in trying criminals 
 than any two Justices of the peace; and who exercised, 
 moreover, a vague kind of authority in other matters, as 
 representatives of the Executive Government at Auck- 
 land. Graver offences were tried by Judges, appointed 
 from England, and by juries taken from a jury-list, 
 consisting of the male adults with the usual exemptions.
 
 OF NEW ZEALAND. 425 
 
 For a long while, there was not even a Coroner in some 
 of the settlements. 
 
 The greatest inconvenience constantly resulted from 
 this worthless method of government. Very often the 
 inhabitants of the Cook's Strait Settlements heard, first 
 by way of Sydney or Hobart Town, of the laws which 
 had been made for them at Auckland, and had actually 
 come into operation throughout the Colony for many 
 weeks: and, notwithstanding the great numerical and 
 material superiority of these Colonists, the taxes so 
 arbitrarily imposed upon them were chiefly spent at the 
 distant seat of legislation. 
 
 Another inconvenience arose from the capricious 
 manner in which the power of disallowing laws passed 
 by the Council was often exercised by the Secretary of 
 state in England: so that some laws, when in actual 
 operation, and when just beginning to work well, were 
 suddenly replaced by the state of things which they 
 had been devised to remedy, on the proclamation of 
 such disallowance in the Gazette of the Colony. For 
 instance, a Municipal Corporation, having been granted 
 to Wellington, was becoming very useful, notwith- 
 standing its very insufficient jurisdiction, because it 
 provided for the management of some few local matters 
 by the persons best acquainted with them: but when it 
 had existed not quite a year, news arrived that the law 
 by which it had been constituted was disallowed by 
 Lord Stanley. 
 
 These laws, or ordinances as they are called in the 
 Colony, were many of them so badly drawn up by the 
 executive officers, who were often incapable, and totally 
 free from the check ofabonajide deliberative assembly, 
 that a very large proportion of the legislation during 
 this period consisted of ordinances "to repeal or 
 amend" former ordinances, on account of the discovery 
 of technical blunders when they came to be tried by 
 practice. 
 
 o o2
 
 426 PRESENT FORM OF GOVERNMENT 
 
 This state of things lias been, as yet, but very little 
 improved. In consequence of the abeyance of the im- 
 perfect Constitution which had been granted to New 
 Zealand by the Act 9 & 10 Viet. cap. 103, and by the 
 Orders in Council, Charter, and Royal Instructions 
 issued in pursuance of it, the government of New Zea- 
 land still partakes of nearly the same absolute and 
 arbitrary character, although with rather more preten- 
 sions to an infusion of the local representative prin- 
 ciple. (See pp. 81, 84, 85, 86.) 
 
 New Zealand is now divided into two Provinces, 
 called " New Munster" and " New Ulster," as already 
 described at page 86; and it is understood that the 
 southern part of the Middle Island, including Otago, 
 will shortly be erected into a third Province. 
 
 Each of these provinces has a Lieutenant-governor. 
 They reside at Wellington and Auckland respectively. 
 Each Province is to have a Provincial Legislative 
 Council, consisting of some members holding office, 
 and some non-official members appointed to seats by 
 the Lieutenant-governor, as by the Governor before, 
 but removable either by him, or by the Governor-in- 
 chief, or by the Secretary of state in London. For 
 each Province the Lieutenant-governor and Provincial 
 Council are to make laws and impose taxes, subject 
 always to disallowance by the Governor-in-chief, or by 
 the Secretary of state in London. And a civil list, to 
 be expended according to the discretion of the Lieu- 
 tenant-governor, is to be provided in the first instance 
 from the supplies voted. 
 
 There is to be a general Council at Auckland, con- 
 sisting of some members holding office in the general 
 Government, and of some non-official members selected 
 by the Governor-in-chief from the Provincial Coun- 
 cils, and removable by him. This general Council is 
 to make laws and impose taxes for the whole Colony. 
 
 It is understood that Municipal Corporations, with 
 very limited powers for local objects, will again be
 
 IN NEW ZEALAND, 427 
 
 erected in such large settlements as may desire it: and 
 the Governor-in-chief' has the power of altering the 
 franchise in such boroughs as he may think fit, instead 
 of being bound to that laid down by the Royal Instruc- 
 tions under the Act 9 & 10 Viet., cap. 103. 
 
 The Governor-in-chief has also the power of esta- 
 blishing the suspended Constitution, but founded on 
 the so altered franchise, in either Province, at any time 
 within the five years.. 
 
 It will be seen that the governor-in-chief has still, 
 until the end of the live years, really as complete control 
 as before over the legislation and taxation of the whole 
 Colony, subject always, as before, to the veto of the 
 Secretary of state in London, but to no control what- 
 ever from the Colonists themselves: as he will always 
 have the power of displacing any member of either of 
 the three Councils who may choose to oppose, even by 
 speech, measures originated by his executive officers. 
 Hitherto, the present Governor-in-chief has given some 
 satisfaction by choosing from among the leading Colo- 
 nists, instead of from among strangers as had formerly 
 been the case, the executive officers of at least the 
 southern Province, and appointing to an office under 
 the general Government one of the principal Colonists 
 of Nelson. 
 
 It is not easy to furnish an exact list of the Ordi- 
 nances passed by the Legislative Council at Auckland 
 from its first sitting up to the present time. The fol- 
 lowing list is taken from Mr. Grimstone's " Statistics 
 of the Southern Settlements," omitting, however, the 
 Ordinances enumerated by him as having been totally 
 repealed or disallowed by the Secretary of state in 
 England ;
 
 ORDINANCES PASSED BY 
 
 Session, 
 Number o) 
 Ordinance 
 
 &c. 
 
 Date of 
 passing the 
 Legislative 
 Council. 
 
 TITLE. 
 
 Whether 
 in operation, 
 repealed, or other- 
 wise. 
 
 4th Vic. 
 
 1841. 
 
 " An Ordinance to repea 
 
 Came into opera- 
 
 Session I., 
 
 June 9. 
 
 within the said colony of New 
 
 tion 10th June, 
 
 1841. 
 
 
 Zealand a certain act of the 
 
 1841. Confirmee 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 
 Governor and Legislative 
 
 by her Majesty. 
 
 
 
 Council of New South Wales 
 
 Amended by No. 
 
 
 
 made and passed in the fourth 
 
 3, of Session III. 
 
 
 
 year of the reign of her present 
 
 Further amend- 
 
 
 
 Majesty, and adopted under an 
 
 ment, No. 20, Ses- 
 
 
 
 Ordinance of the Governor anc 
 
 sion III. 
 
 
 
 Legislative Council of New 
 
 
 
 
 Zealand, for extending the 
 
 
 
 
 laws of New South Wales to 
 
 
 
 
 the said colony of New Zealand 
 
 
 
 
 and which said act of the Go- 
 
 
 
 
 vernor and Council of New 
 
 
 
 
 South Wales, is intituled ' An 
 
 
 
 
 Act to empower the Governor 
 
 
 
 
 of New South Wales to appoint 
 
 
 
 
 Commissioners with certain 
 
 
 
 
 powers to examine and report 
 
 
 
 
 on claims to grants of land in 
 
 
 
 
 New Zealand,' and also to ter- 
 
 
 
 
 minate any commission issued 
 
 
 
 
 under the same, and to autho- 
 
 
 
 
 rize the Governor of the colony 
 
 
 
 
 of New Zealand to appoint 
 
 
 
 
 Commissioners with certain 
 
 
 
 
 powers, to examine and report 
 
 
 
 
 on claims to grants of land 
 
 
 
 
 therein, and to declare all 
 
 
 
 
 other titles except those al- 
 
 
 
 
 lowed by the Crown null and 
 
 
 
 
 void." 
 
 
 4th Vic. 
 
 June 17. 
 
 " An Ordinance to repeal 
 
 Do. 18th June, 
 
 Session I. 
 
 
 within the said colony of New 
 
 1841. 
 
 1841. 
 
 
 Zealand, the act of the Go- 
 
 Amended 20th 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 
 vernor and Council of New 
 
 June, 1844, by No. 
 
 
 
 South Wales, passed in the 
 
 6, of Session III. 
 
 
 
 third year of her present Ma- 
 
 Amended by Nos. 
 
 
 
 jesty's reign, intituled, 'An 
 
 6, 8, and 14, of 
 
 
 
 Act to repeal an Act, relating 
 
 Session VII. 1846. 
 
 
 
 to the Revenue of Customs in 
 
 
 
 
 New South Wales, and to pro- 
 
 
 
 
 vide for the general regulation 
 
 
 
 
 thereof;' and also a certain 
 
 
 
 
 other Act of the said Governor 
 
 
 
 
 and Council of New South 
 
 
 
 
 Wales, passed in the fourth 
 
 
 
 
 year of t he reign of her said pre- 
 
 
 
 
 sent Majesty Queen Victoria, 
 
 
 
 
 ntituled ' An Act for increas- 
 
 
 
 
 ngthe Duties on Spirits, Wine, 
 
 
 
 
 and other Goods and Mer- 

 
 THE LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL. 
 
 429 
 
 Session, 
 Number of 
 Ordinance, 
 
 &c. 
 
 Date of 
 
 passing the 
 I.egislathc 
 Council. 
 
 TITLE. 
 
 Whether 
 
 in operation, 
 repealed, or other- 
 wise. 
 
 
 
 chandisc, imported into the 
 
 
 
 
 colony of New South Wales 
 
 
 
 
 and its dependencies;' and 
 
 
 
 
 which said acts of the Go- 
 
 
 
 
 vernor and Council of New 
 
 
 
 
 Smith Wales were adopted, 
 
 
 
 
 and are now in force within 
 
 
 
 
 the said colony of New Zealand 
 
 
 
 
 and its dependencies; and to 
 
 
 
 
 make provision for the collec- 
 
 
 
 
 tion of certain Duties on goods 
 
 
 
 
 imported into, and for the ge- 
 
 
 
 
 neral regulation of the Ke- 
 
 
 
 
 venne of Customs in the colony 
 
 
 
 
 of New Zealand and its de- 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 pendencies." 
 
 
 4th Vic. 
 
 1841. 
 
 " An Ordinance for institut- 
 
 Can.c into opera- 
 
 Session I. 
 
 June 24. 
 
 ing and regulating Courts of 
 
 tion 25th June, 
 
 1X41. 
 
 
 Cencral and Quarter Sessions, 
 
 1841. Confirmed 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 
 in the colony of New Zealand, 
 
 by her Majesty. 
 
 
 
 and to ant home the holding of 
 
 In the interim 
 
 
 
 Petty Sessions within the 
 
 partly repealed 5 
 
 
 
 same, and for defining their 
 
 Vic., Session II., 
 
 
 
 respective powers, and deter- 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 
 
 mining the places at which the 
 
 
 
 
 same shall he holdcn, and for 
 
 
 
 
 repealing within the colony of 
 
 
 
 
 New /('aland, certain acts of 
 
 
 
 
 the Governor and Council of 
 
 
 
 
 New South \Valcs, adopted 
 
 
 
 
 and now in force within the 
 
 
 
 
 said colony of New Zealand." 
 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 June 23. 
 
 " An Ordinance for prohi- 
 
 Do. 24th June, 
 
 
 
 biting the Distillation of Spirits 
 
 1841. Confirmed 
 
 
 
 within the colony of New Zea- 
 
 by her Majesty. 
 
 
 
 land." 
 
 In the interim 
 
 
 
 
 repealed H Vic., 
 
 
 
 
 Session 111., No. 
 
 
 
 
 13.* 
 
 Mli Vic. 
 
 Dec. 23. 
 
 " An Ordinance to regulate 
 
 Do. 21th Dec., 
 
 Session 11. 
 
 
 the Constitution of Juries." 
 
 1 s 1 1 . Confirmed 
 
 1841. 
 
 
 
 by her Majesty. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 
 
 Amended by No. 
 
 
 
 
 >. Session 111. 
 
 Session II. 
 
 1842. 
 
 " An Ordinance for cxlend- 
 
 Do. 1st Mar. 1842. 
 
 IS 12. 
 
 Jan. 21. 
 
 ingthc powers of Police Magis- 
 
 Continued by her 
 
 -No. 4. 
 
 
 trates." 
 
 Majostv. Repeal- 
 
 
 
 
 ed l,v No. 15 of 
 
 
 
 
 Sess. VII., 184<i. 
 
 * Iii this, and many other case ;, the repealed Ordinance was still waiting 
 the Royal Assent, when the list was made out.
 
 430 
 
 ORDINANCES PASSED BY 
 
 Session, 
 Number of 
 Ordinance, 
 &c. 
 
 Date of 
 passing the 
 Legislative 
 Council. 
 
 TITLE. 
 
 Whether 
 in operation, 
 repealed, or o: her- 
 wise. 
 
 5th Vic. 
 
 1842. 
 
 " An Ordinance to regulate 
 
 Came into opera- 
 
 Session II. 
 
 Jan. 21. 
 
 summary proceedings before 
 
 tion 1st Mar. 1842. 
 
 1842. 
 
 
 Justices of the Peace." 
 
 Amended July 16, 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 
 
 1844, by No. 15, of 
 
 
 
 
 Session III. 
 
 No. 9. 
 
 1841. 
 
 " An Ordinance to provide 
 
 Extended to Auck- 
 
 
 Dec. 28. 
 
 for the Registration of Deeds 
 
 land, August 15, 
 
 
 
 and Instruments affecting Real 
 Property." 
 
 1842. 
 Extended to Wel- 
 
 
 
 
 lington and Nel- 
 
 
 
 
 son, Oct. 1, 1845. 
 
 
 
 
 Royal assent sus- 
 
 
 
 
 pended. 
 
 No. 10. 
 
 1842. 
 
 " An Ordinance to facilitate 
 
 Do. 1st March, 
 
 
 Jan. 18. 
 
 the Transfer of Real Property, 
 
 1842. 
 
 
 
 and to simplify the laws relat- 
 
 Amended July 4, 
 
 
 
 ing thereto." 
 
 1844, by No. 2, of 
 
 
 
 
 Session III. 
 
 No. 11. 
 
 Feb. 21. 
 
 " An Ordinance to render 
 
 Do. 22d Feb. 1842. 
 
 
 
 certain Marriages valid." 
 
 
 No. 12. 
 
 Feb. 10. 
 
 " An Ordinance for regulat- 
 ing the sale of Fermented and 
 
 Do. 1st Mar. 1842. 
 Confirmed by her 
 
 
 
 Spirituous Liquors." 
 
 Majesty. 
 
 
 
 
 Amended 17th 
 
 
 
 
 July, 1844, by No. 
 
 
 
 
 21, Session III. 
 
 No. 13. 
 
 March 15. 
 
 " An Ordinance for Licens- 
 
 Do. 25th April, 
 
 
 
 ing Auctioneers." 
 
 1842. Confirmed 
 
 
 
 
 do. 
 
 
 
 
 Amended 20th 
 
 
 
 
 June, 1844, by No. 
 
 
 
 
 10 of Sess. III. 
 
 No. 15. 
 
 Feb. 21. 
 
 " An Ordinance to provide 
 
 Do. 22d February, 
 
 
 
 for the Regulation of Har- 
 
 1842. 
 
 
 
 bours." 
 
 Amended July 10, 
 
 
 
 
 1844, by No. 17 of 
 
 
 
 
 Session III. 
 
 No. 16. 
 
 March 14. 
 
 " An Ordinance to provide 
 
 Do. 25th April, 
 
 
 
 for the summary Recovery of 
 
 1842. Confirmed 
 
 
 
 Compensation for Damage 
 
 by her Majesty. 
 
 
 
 done by Cattle Trespassing." 
 
 Amended Oct. 10, 
 
 
 
 
 1844, by No. 14 of 
 
 
 
 
 Sess. III. 
 
 
 
 
 Repealed by No. 
 
 
 
 
 17 of Sess. VII., 
 
 
 
 
 1846. 
 
 No. 17. 
 
 March 3. 
 
 " An Ordinance for impos- 
 
 Extended to Auck- 
 
 
 
 ing a tax upon Raupo Houses." 
 
 land 16th Mav, 
 
 
 
 
 1842. Do. to Wel- 
 
 
 
 
 lington 30th Mar., 
 
 
 
 
 1843. Confirmed 
 
 
 
 
 do. do.
 
 THE LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL. 
 
 431 
 
 -.---. .11. 
 Number of 
 t>rvl.!>*noe. 
 &c. 
 
 Date of 
 
 1 3>>;z~: j t ho 
 i. -ci ?;.i: :\<: 
 
 <_ >,U!K.i 
 
 TITLE. 
 
 Whether 
 in operation, 
 repealed, or other- 
 wise. 
 
 Mb Me. 
 Season II. 
 
 l4->. 
 
 Much 15. 
 
 "An Ordinance to secure 
 the Copyright of Printed 
 
 Came into opera- 
 tion 16th March, 
 
 
 
 Books to the Author* thereof." 
 
 1843. ConCrmed 
 
 No. 18. 
 
 
 
 do. do. 
 
 No. 19. 
 
 Much 15. 
 
 ' An Ordinance to repeal an 
 OtJUouc* enacted by the Go- 
 
 Do. do. 25th April, 
 1843. Confirmed 
 
 
 
 vernor of New Zealand, with 
 
 by her Maj*ty. 
 
 
 
 the adric* and content of the 
 
 
 
 
 Legtalathre Council thereof, 
 
 
 
 
 whereby the laws of New Sooth 
 
 
 
 
 WaJe* were dH.-Urv.J !.-> eitend 
 
 
 
 
 to, and be in force in the co- 
 
 
 
 
 lony of New Zealand." 
 
 
 Private Or- 
 dinance 
 
 niMiini ii 
 
 1841. 
 . Dec. S3. 
 
 " An Ordinance to simplify 
 legal proceedings by and 
 against the Xew Zealand Bank- 
 
 Do. Dec. 23, 1841. 
 
 1841. 
 
 
 ing Company." 
 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 
 
 
 7th Vic. 
 
 1844. 
 
 "An Ordinance for esta- 
 
 Do. UthJanuarr, 
 
 Session III. 
 
 Jan. 13. 
 
 bUshing a Supreme Court." 
 
 1844. 
 
 1-41. 
 
 
 
 Amended by Xo. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 
 
 3, of Session" VII.; 
 
 
 
 
 1846. In part 
 
 
 
 
 repealed by No. 
 
 
 
 
 4 of same Ses- 
 
 _r__ 
 
 Xo. 2. 
 
 Jan. 13. 
 
 " An Ordinance to make 
 
 ?.on. 
 Do. 14th January. 
 
 
 
 temporary provision for the 
 ConMitation of Juries." 
 
 1844. Confirmed 
 
 U lier Ma;e.tv. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 Jan. 13. 
 
 M An Ordinance to >mfnd 
 
 Do. 14th January, 
 
 
 
 the Land Claims Ordinance." 
 
 1844. 
 
 
 
 flMrion I., No. 2. 
 
 
 Xo. 5. 
 
 June 6. 
 
 " An Ordinance to appro* 
 
 Do. June T, 1844. 
 
 
 
 priate the Revenue for the 
 
 
 
 
 year 1*44." 
 
 
 8th Vic. 
 
 N t . 1 
 
 June --. 
 
 ' An Ordinance to amend 
 an Ordinance ffia<<fMl by the 
 
 Do. June>l.l44. 
 Repealed Sept. 38, 
 
 
 
 Governor and Council of New 
 
 1M4, by No. 3 of 
 Session IV 
 
 
 
 reptil certain Act* of the .;>- 
 
 Be-enacted 9th 
 
 
 
 Yernor and Council of New 
 
 April. 1845, by 
 
 
 
 Sooth Wale*, to make prori- 
 
 *ior. f.-r the o i!e-ni.ju of oor- 
 
 No.4of8es* \ 
 Amended by 6, 8, 
 
 
 
 tain Duties on Goods imported 
 
 and 14, of Stetion 
 
 
 
 into, and for the general regu- 
 
 V1L, 1846. 
 
 
 
 lation of the Revenue of Cus- 
 
 
 
 
 tom* in, the colony of New 
 
 
 
 
 7ralnd nrt iti dapcinifcinctci ." 
 
 
 Xo. 7. 
 
 June 25. 
 
 " An Ordinance for the re- 
 
 Do. do. 2Cth June. 
 
 
 
 lief of Persons Imprisoned for 
 
 1844. Confirmed 
 
 
 
 Debt." 
 
 by her Majesty.
 
 432 
 
 ORDINANCES PASSED BY 
 
 Session, 
 Number of 
 Ordinance, 
 &c. 
 
 Date of 
 passing the 
 Legislative 
 Council. 
 
 TITLE. 
 
 Whether 
 in operation, 
 repealed, or other- 
 wise. 
 
 8th Vic., 
 
 1844. 
 
 " An Ordinance to establish 
 
 Came into opera- 
 
 Session III. 
 
 June 27. 
 
 Courts of Requests for the 
 
 tion, Oct. 1, 1844. 
 
 1844. 
 
 
 more easy and speedy Reco- 
 
 Do. 
 
 No. 8. 
 
 
 very of Small Debts." 
 
 
 No. 9. 
 
 June 29. 
 
 " An Ordinance for appoint- 
 
 
 
 
 ing a Board of Trustees for the 
 
 Awaiting Royal 
 
 
 
 management of property to be 
 
 assent. 
 
 
 
 set apart for the Education 
 
 
 
 
 and Advancement of the Na- 
 
 
 
 
 
 tive Race." 
 
 
 No. 10. 
 
 June 29. 
 
 " An Ordinance to amend 
 
 
 
 
 an Ordinance for Licensing 
 
 Do. 30th June. 
 
 
 
 Auctioneers." 
 
 1844. Confirmed 
 
 
 
 
 by her Majesty. 
 
 No. 11. 
 
 July 4. 
 
 " An Ordinance to amend an 
 
 Do. July i>, 1844. 
 
 
 
 Ordinance to facilitate the 
 
 Confirmed by her 
 
 
 
 transfer of Real Property, and 
 
 Majesty. 
 
 
 
 to simplify the law relating 
 
 
 
 
 thereto." 
 
 
 No. 12. 
 
 July 9. 
 
 " An Ordinance to provide 
 
 Awaiting Royal 
 
 
 
 for the establishment and re- 
 
 assent. 
 
 
 
 gulation of Municipal Corpo- 
 
 
 
 
 rations." 
 
 
 No. 13. 
 
 July 11. 
 
 " An Ordinance to repeal 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 
 an Ordinance for prohibiting 
 
 
 
 
 the Distillation of Spirits 
 
 
 
 
 within the colony of New 
 
 
 
 
 Zealand." 
 
 
 No. 14. 
 
 July 11. 
 
 " An Ordinance to amend an 
 
 Came into opera- 
 
 
 
 Ordinance to provide for the 
 
 tion 1st October, 
 
 
 
 Summary Recovery of Com- 
 
 1844. Confirmed 
 
 
 
 pensation for Damages done 
 
 by her Majesty. 
 
 
 
 by Cattle Trespassing." 
 
 Repealed by No. 
 
 
 
 
 17 of Sess. VII., 
 
 
 
 
 1846. 
 
 No. 15. 
 
 July 1C. 
 
 " An Ordinance to amend an 
 
 Do. 17th July, 1844. 
 
 
 
 Ordinance to regulate sum- 
 
 .. 
 
 
 
 mary proceedings before Jus- 
 
 
 
 
 tices of the Peace." 
 
 
 No. 16. 
 
 July 16. 
 
 " An Ordinance for the ad- 
 
 Do. 17th July,1844. 
 
 
 
 mission, in certain cases, of 
 
 
 
 
 unsworn testimony in Civil 
 
 
 
 
 and Criminal Proceedings " 
 
 
 No. 17, 
 
 July 16. 
 
 " An Ordinance to amend an 
 
 Do. 17th July,1844. 
 
 
 
 Ordinance to provide fur the 
 
 
 
 
 Regulation of Harbours." 
 
 
 No. 18. 
 
 July 1G. 
 
 " An Ordinance to exempt, 
 
 Came into opera- 
 
 
 
 in certain cases, Aboriginal 
 
 tion 17th July, 
 
 
 
 Native Population of the co- 
 
 1844. Repealed 
 
 
 
 lony from the ordinary pro- 
 
 by No. 15 of Sess. 
 
 
 
 cess and operation of the 
 
 VII. 
 
 
 
 law." 

 
 Tin: LEGISLATIVE corxciL. 
 
 433 
 
 :..n. 
 Number of 
 Ordinance, 
 
 Date of 
 
 l-o- lit ' till. 
 
 LrtTir-Utiw 
 Council. 
 
 TITLE. 
 
 Whether 
 in operation, 
 repealed, or other- 
 wise. 
 
 th Vic., 
 
 Ii4l. 
 
 ' An Ordinance to provide a 
 
 Came into opera- 
 
 Session III 
 
 July 17. 
 
 summary mode of abating the 
 
 tion iMh July, 
 
 1*44. 
 
 
 nuisance of Dogs wandering at 
 
 1S44. Confirme.1 
 
 No. 19. 
 
 
 large in Town.-." 
 
 by her Majesty. 
 
 No. 20. 
 
 July 17. 
 
 An Ordinance to remove 
 
 Do. l*thJuly,i-!l 
 
 
 
 doubts respecting the Legal 
 
 
 
 
 Estate in lands granted to Land 
 
 
 
 
 Claimants." 
 
 
 No. 21. 
 
 July 17. 
 
 " An Ordinance to amend an 
 
 Do. 18thJuly,1844 
 
 
 
 Ordinance for regulating tlu 
 
 
 
 
 sale of Fermented and Spiritu- 
 
 
 
 
 ous Liquor*." 
 
 
 ite Or- 
 
 July 11. 
 
 " An Ordinance for facilitat- 
 
 Do. Jan. 1, i 
 
 dinances. 
 
 
 ing proceedings by and against 
 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 
 a certain Joint Stock Com- 
 
 
 
 
 
 pany called the ' Union Bank 
 
 
 
 
 of Australia,' and for other 
 
 
 
 
 purposes therein mentioned." 
 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 July 16. 
 
 An Ordinance for the Na- 
 
 Do.17thJuly.lg44. 
 
 
 
 turalization of certain German 
 
 Confirmed by her 
 
 
 
 Settlers in the colony of New 
 
 Majesty. 
 
 
 
 Zealand." 
 
 
 Mh Vic., 
 
 Sept. 26. 
 
 An Ordinance to confirm 
 
 Do. 27th Sept 1 - i i 
 
 Session IV. 
 
 
 certain Bales, Forms, and 
 
 
 MM 
 
 
 Tables of Fees, touching the 
 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 
 practice in the Supreme Court." 
 
 
 Mh \ i.-.. 
 
 1S45. 
 
 " An Ordinance for raisin? a 
 
 Do. Mar.?C, l~[-,. 
 
 Session V. 
 
 M..ivli H. 
 
 Militia within the colony." 
 
 
 IMfc. 
 
 
 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 
 
 
 No. ->. 
 
 April 1. 
 
 " An Ordinance for appro- 
 
 Do. 2d April, 1 > i " 
 
 
 
 priating the Kevenue for the 
 
 
 
 
 year i - 
 
 
 No. .1. 
 
 April 3. 
 
 " An Ordinance for imposing 
 
 Do. 4th April, 1845 
 
 
 
 Pees on the delivery of Crown 
 
 Repealed by No. 
 
 
 
 Grants in certain case*." 
 
 11 of Sess.'MI . 
 
 
 
 
 1MB. 
 
 
 April 19. 
 
 An ordinance to make a 
 
 Do. April 20, 1845 
 
 
 
 'urther appropriation of the 
 
 
 
 
 Ki-teiiiit> for the year 1>! V 
 
 
 
 April 19. 
 
 "An Ordinance to cm|>ower 
 
 Not yet in opera- 
 
 
 
 owners and occupiers of land 
 
 tion. 
 
 
 
 M-ithin certain districts to re- 
 
 
 
 
 air and maintain Ilu'httiiy- 
 
 
 
 
 ind 1'ul.H.' Worki within the 
 
 
 
 
 aine, and to make and le\v 
 
 
 
 
 r defi-aying the ex- 
 
 
 
 
 eli-e- theiVof." 
 
 
 No. 7. 
 
 Aj.ril 22. 
 
 \n diMiiiaiice to pr-.vi.le 
 
 Came into opera. 
 
 
 
 or the ai>|>lieatii>n at 
 
 i.ni .-:ird .Aj.ril, 
 
 
 
 mpMa in cases of Minuuuiv 
 
 
 
 
 oii\i-~tion fur Assault." 
 
 
 p p
 
 434 
 
 ORDINANCES PASSED BY 
 
 Session, 
 dumber of 
 Ordinance, 
 fee. 
 
 Date of 
 lassing the 
 Legislative 
 Council. 
 
 TITLE. 
 
 Whether 
 in operation, 
 repealed, or other- 
 wise. 
 
 8th Vic., 
 
 1845. 
 
 " An Ordinance for bringing 
 
 Came into opera- 
 
 Session V. 
 
 April 22. 
 
 into operation certain Acts of 
 
 tion 1st July, 1845. 
 
 1845. 
 
 
 the Imperial Parliament." 
 
 
 No. 8. 
 
 
 
 
 Private Or- 
 
 Aprils. 
 
 " An Ordinance for the Na- 
 
 Awaiting Royal 
 
 dinances. 
 
 
 turalization of certain persons 
 
 assent. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 
 in the colony of New Zea- 
 
 
 
 
 land." 
 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 April 3. 
 
 "An Ordinance for the Na- 
 
 Came into opera- 
 
 
 
 turalization of certain German 
 
 tion 4th April, 
 
 
 
 Settlers in the colony of New 
 
 1845. 
 
 
 
 Zealand." 
 
 
 9th Vic., 
 Session VI. 
 
 Dec. 13. 
 
 "An Ordinance to empower 
 the Governor of New Zealand 
 
 Do. 21st Jan. 1846. 
 Confirmed by her 
 
 1845, 
 
 
 to regulate the importation 
 
 Majesty. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 
 and sale of Arms, Gunpowder, 
 
 
 
 
 and other Warlike Stores." 
 
 
 10th Vic., 
 
 1846. 
 
 "An Ordinance for the na- 
 
 Awaiting Royal 
 
 Session VII. 
 
 Oct. 8. 
 
 turalization of certain persons 
 
 assent. 
 
 1846. 
 
 
 in the colony of New Zealand." 
 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 
 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Oct. 9. 
 
 " An Ordinance to provide 
 
 Came into opera- 
 
 
 
 for the establishment and 
 
 tion 10th October, 
 
 
 
 maintenance of a Constabu- 
 
 1846. 
 
 
 
 lary Force." 
 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 Oct. 12. 
 
 " An Ordinance to amend an 
 
 Do. 13th Oct. 1846. 
 
 
 
 Ordinance for establishing a 
 
 
 
 
 Supreme Court, and to esta- 
 
 
 
 
 blish a Court of Appeals." 
 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 Oct. 12. 
 
 " An Ordinance to regulate 
 
 Do. 13th Oct. 1846. 
 
 
 
 the appointment and duties 
 
 
 
 
 of Sheriffs in the colony of 
 
 
 
 
 New Zealand." 
 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 Oct. 15. 
 
 " An Ordinance to regulate 
 
 Do. 16th Oct. 1846. 
 
 
 
 the appointment and duties of 
 
 
 
 
 Coroners in the colony of New 
 
 
 
 
 Zealand." 
 
 
 No. 6. 
 
 Oct. 15. 
 
 " An Ordinance to authorize 
 
 Do. 16th Oct.1846. 
 
 
 
 the importation of Wine, duty 
 
 
 
 
 free, for Military and Naval 
 
 
 
 
 officers serving in the colony 
 
 
 
 
 of New Zealand." 
 
 
 No. 7. 
 
 Oct. 15. 
 
 " An Ordinance for the Re- 
 
 Do. 16th Oct. 1846. 
 
 
 
 gulation of Prisons." 
 
 
 No. 8. 
 
 Oct. 20. 
 
 " An Ordinance to amend the 
 
 Do. 21st Oct. 1846. 
 
 
 
 ' Customs Ordinance,' Sess. I., 
 
 
 
 
 No. 3, and the ' Customs 
 
 
 
 
 Amendment Ordinance,' Ses- 
 
 
 
 
 sion III., No. 6." 
 
 
 No. 9. 
 
 Oct. 26. 
 
 " An Ordinance for the sup- 
 
 Do. 27th Oct. 1846. 
 
 
 
 port of Destitute Families and 
 
 
 
 
 Illegitimate Children." 

 
 THE LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL. 
 
 435 
 
 Session, 
 Number of 
 Ordinance, 
 
 &c. 
 
 Date of 
 
 pi*si:i.- the 
 Legislative 
 Council. 
 
 TITLE. 
 
 Whether 
 in operation, 
 repealed, or other- 
 wise. 
 
 10th Mo.. 
 
 1846. 
 
 "An Ordinance for esta- 
 
 Came into opera- 
 
 Session VII. 
 
 Oct. H 
 
 blishing Standard Weights 
 
 tion 27th October, 
 
 1846. 
 
 
 and Measures, and for the 
 
 1846. 
 
 No. 10. 
 
 
 prevention of the use of 
 
 
 
 
 such as are false and defi- 
 
 
 
 
 cient." 
 
 
 No. 11. 
 
 Nov. 3. 
 
 "An Ordinance to repeal 
 
 Do. 4th Nov. 1846. 
 
 
 
 the ' Crown Grants Ordi- 
 
 
 
 
 nance,' Session V., No. 3, 
 
 
 
 
 and to impose Fees for the 
 
 
 
 
 delivery of all Crown Grants." 
 
 
 No. 12. 
 
 Nov. 5. 
 
 "An Ordinance to confirm 
 
 Do. 6th Nov. 1846. 
 
 
 
 certain Rules, Forms, and 
 
 
 
 
 Tables of Fees touching the 
 
 
 
 
 practice of the Supreme 
 
 
 
 
 
 Court." 
 
 
 No. 13. 
 
 Nov. 6. 
 
 "An Ordinance to appro- 
 
 Do. 7th Nov. 1846. 
 
 
 
 priate the Revenue for the 
 
 
 
 
 year 1847." 
 
 
 No. 14. 
 
 Nov. 6. 
 
 " An Ordinance to alter cer- 
 
 Do. 7th Nov. 1846. 
 
 
 
 tain Duties of Customs." 
 
 
 No. 15. 
 
 Nov. 7. 
 
 " An Ordinance to repeal the 
 
 To come into ope- 
 
 
 
 Police Magistrates Ordinance' 
 
 ration on the 1st 
 
 
 
 and the ' Native Exemption 
 
 May, 1847. 
 
 
 
 Ordinance.' " 
 
 
 No. 16. 
 
 Nov. 7. 
 
 " An Ordinance to provide 
 
 By Proclamation 
 
 
 
 for the establishment of Re- 
 
 at any time the 
 
 
 
 sident Magistrates' Courts, 
 
 Governor may 
 
 
 
 and to make special pro- 
 
 think fit, but 
 
 
 
 vision for the Administra- 
 
 throughout the 
 
 
 
 tion of Justice in certain 
 
 colony on the 1st 
 
 
 
 cases." 
 
 May, 1S47. 
 
 No. IT. 
 
 Nov. 10. 
 
 " An Ordinance to repeal the 
 
 Came into opera- 
 
 
 
 ' Cattle Trespass Ordinance' 
 
 tion on the 1st 
 
 
 
 and the ' Cattle Trespass 
 
 January, 1847. 
 
 
 
 Amendment Ordinance,' and 
 
 
 
 
 to provide for the summary 
 
 
 
 
 recovery of compensation for 
 
 
 
 
 damage done by Cattle Tres- 
 
 
 
 
 passing." 
 
 
 No. IS. 
 
 Nov. 12. 
 
 " An Ordinance to regulate 
 
 Do. do. 
 
 
 
 the removal and the making 
 
 
 
 
 and repairing of Arms, CJun- 
 
 
 
 
 powder, and other Warlike 
 
 
 
 
 Stores, within the colony of 
 
 
 
 
 New Zealand." 
 
 
 No. 19. 
 
 Nov. 10. 
 
 " An Ordinance to provide 
 
 Do. 17th Novem- 
 
 
 
 for the prevention by sum- 
 
 ber, 1846. 
 
 
 
 mary proceedings of unau- 
 
 
 
 
 thorised Purchases and Leases 
 
 
 
 
 of Lands." 

 
 436 
 
 WHAT INTENDING COLONISTS 
 
 Session, 
 
 Date of 
 
 
 Whether 
 
 Number of 
 Ordinance, 
 
 passing the 
 Legislative 
 
 TITLE. 
 
 in operation, 
 repealed, or other- 
 
 &c. 
 
 Council. 
 
 
 wise. 
 
 10th Vic., 
 
 1846. 
 
 " An Ordinance for establish- 
 
 To come into ope- 
 
 Session VII. 
 
 Nov. 18. 
 
 ing Courts of Sessions of the 
 
 ration by Procla- 
 
 1846. 
 
 
 Peace." 
 
 mation whenever 
 
 No. 20. 
 
 
 
 the Governor 
 
 
 
 
 shall deem fit. 
 
 No. 21. 
 
 Nor. 18. 
 
 " An Ordinance to make pro- 
 
 Came into opera- 
 
 
 
 vision for the safe custody of, 
 
 tion on the 19th 
 
 
 
 and prevention of offences by > 
 
 November, 1840. 
 
 
 
 Persons dangerously Insane, 
 
 
 
 
 and for the care and m ainte- 
 
 
 
 
 nance of Persons of Unsound 
 
 
 
 
 Mind." 
 
 
 No. 22. 
 
 Nov. 18. 
 
 " An Ordinance to authorise 
 
 Do. do. 
 
 
 
 compensation in Colonial De- 
 
 
 
 
 bentures, to be made to cer- 
 
 
 
 
 tain claimants to land in the 
 
 
 
 
 colony of New Zealand." 
 
 
 Several alterations have been made in the above Or- 
 dinances since November, 1846, and several new ones 
 have been passed; but it is impossible to obtain a per- 
 fectly correct list of them to a more recent date.* 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Preparations necessary for a Colonist. Special Education. What 
 to Learn. Languages.- Mathematics. Arts founded on I/K in. 
 Geology. Botany. Chemistry. Surgery. Agriculture. 
 Music. Cookery. 1 r arious other useful branches of know- 
 ledge. Political Economy. What to buy for Exportation, 
 and how to Export. Clothes. Saddlery, HarHett, <<V. Car- 
 riage. Cattle. Sheep. Horses. Dogs. House. Furniture. 
 Fire-arms, <&c. Agricultural Instrument a. Boats. Mathe- 
 matical Instruments. Musical Instruments. Cricket Appa- 
 ratus, <fr. Birds. Game. Seeds and Plants. Money. 
 Land-Orders, or Land. Books, <tc. Engravings. Hints for 
 the Passage. What to do on Arrival. 
 
 IT will not, perhaps, be thought impertinent to the ob- 
 ject of this work, to point out to the intending Colonist 
 of what preparations he stands in need. Jt has not 
 
 * The Ordinances, wlicn finally confirmed, are published in the 
 papers laid before 1'arlitiinent ; ami niav be found oil looking over a 
 scries of those papers relating lo New Zealand.
 
 SHOULD LEARN. 437 
 
 been uncommon for persons to engage in colonization 
 who were totally devoid of the slightest knowledge, not 
 only of the country to which they were going, but of 
 what it was necessary to take with them, and of what 
 they would have to do on their arrival. For instance, 
 among the early Wellington Colonists, there were some 
 who took their skates with them, and others who 
 imagined they had discovered marble, on seeing a vein 
 of quartz. This is only to be equalled by the ignorance 
 of that British Government, which, during the war of 
 1812 with the United States, sent out water-tanks from 
 England for the use of the frigates which were to sail 
 on the fresh-water lakes of Canada. 
 
 It has been too common a mistake to suppose that 
 any one 'may fairly expect to succeed in colonization 
 without as careful an education for that purpose as he 
 would require for any other pursuit. Young men re- 
 ceive a special education for the army, the navy, the 
 Church, the bar, physic, or commerce: perhaps it is still 
 more required in order to be well prepared for the 
 duties of a good Colonist. If, indeed, systematic colo- 
 nization from this country should ever be promoted on 
 a large scale, it will be found most important to es- 
 tablish schools and colleges in which such an education 
 shall be given. 
 
 WHAT TO LEARN. 
 
 It will not be attempted here to lay down all that 
 this education should comprise: but in alluding to the 
 peculiar advantages of certain kinds of knowledge, the 
 simplest and most efficacious means of acquiring them 
 will be pointed out; and every intending Colonist of 
 New Zealand is strongly urged to devote as much time, 
 labour, and expense, as may be suitable to his particular 
 means, in thus becoming ready for his future life. 
 
 LAXIil .U.ES. 
 
 Fi-t-nch. There are many French whaling-ships and nion-of-war 
 in tlie South Seas, French settlements at Tahiti ami at the Marquesas 
 Islands, and one in New Zealand ilself. 
 
 v p2
 
 438 WHAT INTENDING COLONISTS 
 
 German. Many Germans emigrate every year to the Australian 
 colonies, and there are some iu New /calami. A few South Sea, 
 whalers are fitted out from Bremen and Hamburgh. 
 
 Spanish. The trade and communication between New Zealand 
 and the Spanish colonies, both in the Philippine Islands and in 
 South America, is constantly increasing. 
 
 MATHEMATICS. It seems almost needless to say how 
 important is a good knowledge of Mathematics. It is 
 absolutely essential, as a mere step to the acquisition of 
 several arts and sciences which are among the most 
 useful to a Colonist: among these are LAND-SURVEYING, 
 CIVIL ENGINEERING, MECHANICS and a knowledge of 
 MACHINERY, ARCHITECTURE, and NAVIGATION. 
 
 On Land- Survey ing, a book recommended to the beginner is 
 Practical Geodesy, by J. Butler Williams : Parker, 18-1'i. The use 
 of the instruments is only to be acquired by actual practice, under 
 the direction of au experienced surveyor, capable of teaching what 
 he knows. By a knowledge of land-surveying, the Colonist may 
 often save himself much expense and doubt. As a pursuit, too, it is 
 particularly profitable iu newly-settled countries. 
 
 Civil Engineering is now taught in a college established at Putney 
 for the especial purpose, and lectures on the subject are also given 
 at University College, by Professor Harman Lewis, M.A. Besides 
 the class-books used there, the colonist should read Stephcnson's 
 Civil Eiigiiiccrimj in America. This author forcibly describes how 
 to make the most of rough materials for great works iu new countries. 
 The student's attention should be especially directed to the construc- 
 tion of roads and bridges, piers, jetties, find wharres, embankment! 
 and fiood- gates, canals, locks, and mill-dams, wells, aqueducts (both 
 open and covered], and the tunnels, shafts, galleries, tind other irorks 
 practised in mining operations. lie should, if possible, observe such 
 work actually in progress, as well as learn the principles on which 
 it is done. There is no lack of opportunities for such observation 
 in this busy country. 
 
 Mechanics. A sound knowledge of mechanics is of the greatest 
 use in a colony, where every one has occasion to more heavy bodies, 
 such as spars, houses, ships, <f~c., and desires to do so hi lite moat 
 tjl'i-ctiial way, and with the /cast expensive application of labour. In 
 the first operations of founding a settlement, the man who knows 
 how to make the best use of a crane or deyrick for landing aoods, 
 how to fix and pull on a rope in the best way, where to put a wedge 
 in spliltinij np a loy rf-c., has a manifest advantage over one who does 
 not possess that knowledge, however simple it may seem. Sailors 
 are always invaluable in these matters, from their constant practice
 
 SHOULD LEARN. 439 
 
 in overcoming mechanical difficulties. Lectures are given on the .W- 
 cliiiiiicul principles <;/' EmjiitccriiKj at University College, by Pro- 
 i'---ur Katou Hodjzkiuson. l-'.H.S. 1'lie student is recommended to 
 r-'itd Mnlltra Physics; Birifs Xntural Philosophy ; Arnott's Phy- 
 .- - : K'it. i'.-i M, cluuiics (/ram Lardncr's Cyclopaedia) ; and ilos- 
 Icy'x Mechanics. 
 
 Machinery. After acquiring a knowledge of the elementary parts 
 of machines, their formation, combination, and application to various 
 manufactures, accompanying such study with personal observation 
 of the machinery always open to inspection at Manchester, Bir- 
 mingham, and our other great manufacturing emporiums, the colonist 
 r-hould especially turn his attention to those classes of machinery 
 employed i" saw-milh, jlmtr-milk, and oil -mills,* jlajc and hemp- 
 irorks, rnpe-u-alks, and loom*, and in iiyricuHunil and mining ope- 
 rations, whether the power employed be irinrf, water, the Inlnmrof 
 iniiiHiils. or stoim. Lectures are given at University College on 
 Machinery, by Professor Bennet Woodcroft. 
 
 Architecture should be studied, with regard both to public 
 buildings and to private residences, and with a view no less to the 
 knowledge and economical use of various materials, than to the 
 attainment of good taste in design. Lectures on Architecture mul 
 < 'mi ft ruction are given at University College by Professor Donaldson, 
 M.l.B.A. They are divided into two portions, one treating of 
 Architecture as a line art, and the other as a science. The following 
 books on the subject are especially recommended: London's Cyeln- 
 /' < Vi//i/f, Farm, nml J'illa Architecture; TreilfloliTs Elc- 
 nii iitury Principles ;/' Curjx-ntry ; and Utcilfs Cltnmlcrs's Civil 
 Arch Hectare. 
 
 XitriiftiliiiH. A very useful branch of knowledge in so maritime 
 a country as Now /calami. It may readily be acquired during the 
 sea- voyage, in conjunction with Seamanship and 3/rtr/t' Surrcyiny. 
 The best book on the subject is 7?iy>cr's X<iriijntin. 
 
 GEOLOGY. This is most important, as a knowledge of geology 
 and miueralogy not only may lead to the discovery in various places 
 of the minerals with which there is every reason to believe thai New 
 /ealand abounds, but also serves to acquaint the student with tin- 
 nature of the soil and sub-soil which he may expect in the neigh- 
 bourhood of various kinds of rocks. It will teach him, too, how to 
 detect limestone, marble, granite, <Scc., ;>ml indeed, indicate to him 
 whereabouts he should look for them. Descriptions, too, of tracts 
 of country traversed in exploring expeditions, are much more valuable 
 when they comprise information on this and other scientific subjects. 
 Lectures on (ieolosry are given at King's College by Professor 
 A listed, M.A., F.H.S. ; and at University College by Professor 
 
 * With a view to pressing oil from the seeds of the titoki and of 
 the New Zealand flax. See pp. U3, 14.
 
 440 WHAT INTENDING COLONISTS 
 
 Andrew Crombie Kamsay. These Lectures can be illustrated by 
 visits to the Geological Department of the British Museum ; aiid to 
 the Museum of Economic Geology iu Craig's Court; which are both 
 open to the public. 
 
 The following books are recommended to the student : 
 
 Sir H. de la Beetle's How to Observe Geology ; Griffin's Trea- 
 tise on Mineralogy (from the Encyl. Metrop.) ; Lycll's Elements 
 of Geology; Lyell's Principles of Geology; Ansted's Geology; 
 Mantelfs Wonders of Geology ; and Phillips s Mineralogy, edited 
 by Allan. 
 
 BOTANY should be acquired, in order to be able to furnish 
 accounts of indigenous plants, to understand how those from other 
 countries can best be introduced and acclimatized, and to be aware 
 of the useful qualities possessed by each plant of whichever kiud. 
 Dr. Lindley's Lectures at University College, which begin in April, 
 and last till the end of July, are generally allowed to be the best on 
 the subject. His books should also be studied. These are 
 
 Lindley's School Botany, Lindley's Elements of Botany, Lind- 
 ley's Theory of Horticulture, Also Jussieu's Court de Botnnique 
 (published by Bailliere). 
 
 Learn how to collect and prepare dried plants, in order to be 
 sent to England from the colony. Printed directions for this pur- 
 pose are to be procured, by a bona fide Colonist or Traveller, at 
 the British Museum, on application to the Curator of the Botanical 
 Department. 
 
 CHEMISTBY. The Colonist will never regret having learned how 
 to test and analyse various substances, such as Metallic Ores of 
 various kinds, Building-stone, Coal, Limestone, Soils and Manures 
 of all sorts, Plants suitable to the production of drags, colouring 
 matter, or dye-stuffs, &c., &c. An ordinary agriculturist of modern 
 times is expected to know something of chemistry : and snch know- 
 ledge, if complete, may be advantageously applied to Brewing and 
 many other profitable processes. Lectures on Chemistry, both 
 Theoretical and Practical, so as to include Chemical ifattiptUation, 
 Analysis, and Experiment, are given at King's College by Professor 
 W. A. Miller, M.D. ; and at University College by Professor Fownes. 
 At both institutions there are excellent laboratories. There is also 
 a College of Practical Chemistry, in Hanover Square. The best 
 books are: Kane's Elements ; Turner and Gregory's Organic and 
 Inorganic Chemistry; ParnelFs applied Chemistry; Johnston's 
 Agricultural Chemistry ; and Liebig's Agricultural Chemistry, 
 
 SUKGEKY. The Colonist should learn how to bleed, set a broken 
 or dislocated limb, and bind wounds. If he can even learn how to 
 amputate a limb, so much the better. A comparatively short at- 
 tendance on the Demonstrations at Bartholomew or Guy's Hospital 
 will impart this knowledge. An excellent Hand-book on the subject 
 is, Household Surgery, by John F. South, published by C. Co.i; Ibi7.
 
 SHOULD LEARN. 4-11 
 
 A more scientific book of reference ia Drain's Surgeon's J r ade 
 M.-enm. Churchill. 1841. 
 
 Ariiucui/ri'RE in general, including I he knowledge of Horses, 
 fiht rji, mid Cattle <>f till kinds, and a thorough acquaintance with 
 //' difl'erent xi/sti'Ms f Drtiiniii/e and modes of Constructing Fences, 
 is only to be acquired by some experience. The best way is to be 
 apprenticed for some year or two to a good farmer on a large scale. 
 There is, indeed, an Agricultural College at C'irencester,in Gloucester- 
 shire. 
 
 Books to be studied. The Volumes of the Library <*f '>// 
 KiKHcledye on British Husbandry, Cuttle, Slteep, Horse, Dog, and 
 I'ig. The Book of the Farm, by Henry Stephens, in II rlnnit s, 
 niaekirond and Sons, 1842, is a most complete and scientific work, 
 which the Colonist should certainly possess. 
 
 Care should be taken to acquire this knowledge without any pre- 
 judice in favour of methods now practised in England ; for in many 
 cases, ruder processes may be found more suitable to colonial means, 
 and in others, the difference in climate will make a difference in 
 methods of cultivation. With this precaution, the Colonist must 
 derive advantage from having made himself a thoroughly good prac- 
 tical as well as theoretical agriculturist before leaving the mother- 
 country. Especially he should become acquainted with the dn<- rota- 
 tion nf i-rojis, only adapting it to the different circumstances of the 
 colony, but bearing carefully in mind the principle on which it is 
 founded, of renewing the productive powers of the soil before it 
 becomes irretrievably exhausted. An excellent work, which cannot 
 be too much in the hands of the Colonist, is The Farmers nnd F.mi- 
 I rant's Handbook, '-hid edition, published by Appletoii & Co., of 
 New York, in lH4. r >. It must be remembered that much of it, which 
 applies to the Continent of America, does not to New Zealand, 
 specially where Climate is referred to : but the greater part of the 
 contents are of the utmost consequence to the beginner in any 
 Colony. 
 
 VKTK.RIXARY SVROKUY should also be acquired as fully as pos- 
 sible : and generally all that relates to the Breeding of Cattle, Sheep, 
 mid Horses ; the hitter especially, as New /enland will soon vie \\iili 
 Australia, which already supplies many horses to the cavalry <>f tin; 
 F.ast Indies. By all means learn hmr t<> */<"< <i horse. 
 
 Mi ^ic is an accomplishment of infinite value to the possessor 
 ami his or her friends, as a recreation in the intervals of a Colonist's 
 labour, and as a relief to the solitude of a distant location. It 
 should he learned before starling on the voyage. Nothing is so dis- 
 agreeable as a fellow-passenger who is learning to sing or to play 
 some instrument. 
 
 COOKERY. Ladies intending to colonize will of course learn it. 
 There is in New /calami such variety and abundance of the best 
 materials for food, that even Soyer's Book may be studied and
 
 442 WHAT INTENDING COLONISTS 
 
 packed up for the colonial library. To men, some knowledge of 
 cookery, such as making bread, &c., comes not amiss in exploring 
 expeditions ; and the ability to kill and clean a hog or a sheep is far 
 from useless. 
 
 CARPENTERING and Turning, and the use of the Axe in felling or 
 splitting timber, should be acquired. 
 
 The following Arts are also recommended for study ; though as to 
 most of them it is needless to point out how they can be acquired : 
 
 Drawing and Painting. 
 
 Ship Building and Rigging. This is very important. The 
 abundance of timber, and the number of havens on the long line of 
 coast, ensure the building of many vessels in the colony. 
 
 Curing and Smoking Beef and Pork, Hams, Bacon, Fish, &c. 
 
 Tanning is likely to be a great trade in New Zealand, as hides 
 will soon abound, arid there are plenty of excellent tan-barks (See 
 pp. 142 and 205). At Bermondsey there are extensive tanneries, 
 well worthy of obseivation and study. 
 
 The Art of Defence in all its branches, including Fencing and the 
 Broadsword Exercise, Boxing, Wrestling, Shooting (icith Folding- 
 piece, Rifle, and Pistol,) &c. 
 
 Sailing, in boats or small vessels. 
 
 Sowing, with sailors' oars, in rough water. 
 
 Steering a vessel, either rowing or sailing. Especially the use of 
 the steer-oar in whale-boats, as this is commonly met with in New 
 Zealand. (See p. 155.) 
 
 Swimming is indispensable ; and Biding and Driving constantly 
 requisite. 
 
 Political Economy, as far as it relates to colonization. On this 
 subject a few works are recommended to the student, for careful and 
 attentive perusal : 
 
 England and America. Bentley. 1831. 
 
 Report of a Committee of the House of Commons on the Disposal 
 of Waste Lands in the British Colonies. 1836. And Evidence 
 appended to the same. 
 
 The Earl of Durham's Reports on British North America; es- 
 pecially those relating to Waste Lands and Immigration. 1839. 
 
 Grahame's History of the United States. 4 vols. Smith and 
 Elder. 1836. 
 
 De Tocqueville's Democracy in America. 
 
 Stuart's Three Years in the United States. 
 
 Letters from Canada and the United States. By J. R. Godley, 
 Esq. Murray. 1840. 
 
 The Bushman. By Landor, Esq. 1847. 
 
 Reports of, and Evidence before, a select Committee of the House 
 of Lords on Emigration from Ireland. 1847-8. 
 
 A Voice from the Bash. By John Sidney, Esq. Smith nnd 
 Elder. 1847.
 
 SHOULD LEARN. 443 
 
 Recollections of Australia. By Hodgson, Esq. 1847. 
 
 Political Economy. By John Stuart Mill, Esq. Parker. 1848. 
 
 Lectures on Colonization and Colonies. By Professor Merivale. 
 2 vols. Longman. 1842. 
 
 Sir William Molesworth's Speech on Colonial Expenditure. 
 Ridgway. 1848. 
 
 WHAT TO BUY AND TAKE WITH YOU. 
 
 CLOTHES. As to those required for the voyage, the outfitters can 
 always give good information ; but a few hints may be acceptable. 
 
 The length of the voyage is on an average 120 days ; and as no 
 water is allowed for washing clothes, it is necessary to provide a 
 sufficient stock of linen for this time. By stowing away in canvas 
 bags that which has been used, and occasionally airing it on deck in 
 fine weather, much of it may be preserved for washing on arrival, 
 and subsequent use in the bush. 
 
 Take roifgh, strong clothing for the voyage, and much of it will 
 serve afterwards in the colony. Thin clothing is required for about 
 one mouth of the passage passed within the tropics ; and thick warm 
 clothing for rather more than a month of cold damp weather passed 
 in the latitude of about 41 S., between the Cape of Good Hope and 
 the end of the voyage. Both kinds are available in New Zealand 
 afterwards. Have no fear of taking too much strong useful cloth- 
 ing : it will always fetch its value : finery only is superfluous. A 
 suit or two of dress clothes lasts a long while in a colony. 
 
 A good Scotch maud, or plaid, and a Mackintosh sheet to spread 
 under your blankets, prove useful on exploring parties. A Mackin- 
 tosh air-bed, too, has been found useful. The Bishop of New Zea- 
 land once used one as a canoe, while on an expedition through the 
 interior. (See "Annals of the New Zealand Diocese," p. 101.) 
 
 Take plenty of broad-brimmed straw hats, cloth forage-caps, with 
 oilskin covers, and sailor's tarpaulin hats. You are sure to lose two 
 or three on the voyage. 
 
 Shoes. Thick shoes, with cork soles, are requisite for walking 
 on the wet deck. Take a good stock of boots and shoes of all kinds, 
 especially stout shooting boots, with plenty of nails in the soles, 
 riding-boots, and fishing-boots, for use in the colony. Such as are 
 not wanted during the voyage should be packed in cases lined with 
 tin and soldered down. On arrival they should be greased and 
 kept in a dry place. They are always the better for a long seasoning 
 before use. 
 
 Take a good stock of SADDLERY, Harness, Whips, Spurs, re., as 
 they can always be sold at a profit, if not wanted for nse. The 
 saddle should be fitted with holsters, saddle-bags, and rings before 
 mid behind, with straps to fit for fastening on blankets or a valise. 
 A pack-saddle or two, and a set of colt breaking apparatus, will be 
 found of use. Take both cart harness and gig harness.
 
 
 414 WHAT TO BUY 
 
 CARRIAGE. A strong modern dot) cart, or taxed cart, will be most 
 serviceable. You can make a packing-case of the body, and pack 
 tbe shafts, wheels, and springs separately, so as to cost little in 
 freight. At any rate, take wheels and springs; the rest can be 
 made in the colony. 
 
 CATTLE. Those imported into New Zealand from Australia are 
 chiefly of the short-horned breed. By all means, if you can afford 
 it, take a thorough-bred bull or cow, of the best kinds, from Eng- 
 land. It is of the utmost importance, if you intend to be an owner 
 of flocks and herds, to begin with stock which you know to possess 
 genuine blood. By early application to the broker of the ship in 
 which you are going, you may generally secure a free passage for a cow 
 with her calf, in order that the cabin table maybe supplied with milk ; 
 so that you will only have to insure against loss and to provide food. 
 Otherwise, you have to pay also for the freight of water and provisions, 
 for fittings and attendance. A cow should be sent, if possible, with 
 her first calf by her side. A bull should be two years old when put 
 on board. Tbe cost will vary according to the ship, and the arrange- 
 ment that can be made. As some guide, here is a rough account 
 of the expenses actually incurred on a bull that was sent from Eng- 
 land to Wellington in the year 1844.: 
 
 Cost of bull (say) 42 
 
 Provisions, fittings, and attendance on voyage 10 
 
 Freight, primage, and charges 20 
 
 Insurance on ,50, at 21 per cent, (with policy, ) lft , e 
 
 SB. 3d.) i 
 
 Total cost landed 82 IS '3 
 
 The provisions for the voyage for a cow and calf will cost about 
 SI. The insurance is against all risks, incliiiliiiy miii'l/ililij anil 
 jetsam, and varies, according to the season of the year and other 
 circumstances, from 12 to 21 per cent. 
 
 SHEEP. Take thorough-bred rams and ewes, of sorts famous for 
 their ileece. Remember always, thnt, excepting the insurance, it 
 costs no more to take out a valuable than a comparatively worthless 
 ram. Count Gersdorff is the owner of aflock of Merino sheep, cfle 
 b rated for their excellence of fleece and beauty in other respects, at 
 his estates of HermsdorfF and Jannowitz, near Dresden, in Saxony. 
 He asks 507. each for his rams, and ft/, each for his ewes, delivered 
 at Hamburgh. The Russian government bought 200 ewes of him at 
 this price in the year 1847. Two sample fleeces (of young rams) 
 may be seen at New Zealand House on application to the Clerk of 
 the Colonists' Room; and the Count will gladly show his flocks to 
 intending purchasers on the spot. Sheep-farming may also lie s.-cn 
 in great perfection, and on a large scale, at several places in tlie 
 Highlands of Scotland.
 
 FOR EXPORTATION. 1 }.'. 
 
 Tlie following is an account of the cost of two rams and four ewes 
 of Lord Western's Merino breed, which were sent from London to 
 Wellington in September, l^-4'i: 
 
 . s. ,1. 
 
 One ram and two ewes cost. . :>0 00) Jv . 
 
 One ram and two ewe$ cost.. 18 OJ" 
 
 Freight, primage, and charges 3'2 8 
 
 Shepherd on hoard 1 > C. 
 
 Fitting long-hoat 2 10 
 
 One ton of hay C 
 
 Three sacks of oats ~| 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 II 
 
 Half-a-ton of turnips J 
 Insurance on 1'MV. at l"i> 
 Policy 
 
 [ per cent. 2:5 
 ii 
 
 12 
 
 s 
 
 G 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 01 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 HORSES. Although a good stock is imported from Australia, 
 theyColnnist should take well-bred horses, if within his means. 
 Horses fit for draught purposes are rare in the Australian colonies : 
 and the importer of really good Clydesdale mares would probably 
 do well. It is of course waste of money to ship any horses not of 
 first rate qualifications and undoubted pureness. They require the 
 greatest vigilance and care, whether during embarkation, on the 
 voyage, or on lauding. 
 
 DOGS. The most useful kinds are the following : Terrier, for 
 killing rats; XtirfiniHilluiid, or Watcr-spuniel, for shooting wild- 
 fowl, and crossing rivers; Emir-hound; the same, by crossing with 
 the Blofulhvund, for a watch-dog, and with the Scotch Deer-hnuntl, 
 to breed boar-hounds ; Pointer, for quail- shooting; Scotch colly, 
 and oilier Shepherd's days. The best way to carry dogs, is to lia\e 
 a kennel fitted for them in, or under, the long-boat. The freight 
 charged is usually from 31, to 5/. You must take oatmeal, M 
 navy biscuit, as food. You will be able to obtain straw enough fur 
 bedding from the casks of bottled liquors, fcc., opened during the 
 passage. Let your dog have plenty of exercise about tin- deeks, but 
 have his kennel fastened so that you alone can open it. and i,. \. r 
 let him out when he will be in the way of either passengers or 
 crew. 
 
 HOUSE. When the first Colonists went to the settlements in 
 Cook's Strait, they took with them many wooden housr-s \\lm-h had 
 been constructed in F.ngland, so us to tiike to pieces, pack, and be 
 put together again on lauding. This wa* a MTV necessary precau- 
 tion on arriving in a land where there was sure to be no sawn lim- 
 ber ready for them. At the present time, however, there are numer- 
 ous saw-mills at all the existing settlements, which supply excellent 
 Q Q
 
 446 WHAT TO BUY 
 
 building timber at lower prices than it can be carried out from Eng- 
 land ; and the cost of labour in erecting the house is very little 
 more in one case than the other. It is well to take out nil kinds of 
 fixtures required for fitting a house, a small stock of fire-bricks, fire- 
 grates, dogs for wood-fires, kitchen-ranges, stoves, boilers, &c., and 
 some corrugated iron or zinc will be found very handy for roofing 
 houses or verandahs quickly. Remember generally, that the timber, 
 and shiugles for roofing, are in abundance in the colony ; and take 
 with you all other materials. It is even wise to take doors and icin- 
 dow frames, with a good stock of glass for them. 
 
 The ready-made wooden houses which have been mentioned are 
 made chiefly by Manning, of 251, High Holborn. It is also worth 
 the Colonist's while to look at the iron houses made for exportation 
 by Cottam and Hallam, Oxford- street. 
 
 The iron Venetian shutters, made to wind up and down, would be 
 nseful. Edgington's Square Double Tents, of moderate size, (say 
 eight to ten feet square inside,) are of great use during the first 
 operations. 
 
 The Colonist who is anxious to carry with him the memorials of the 
 Fine Arts of the old world, may do so at comparatively little cost by 
 purchasing at the British Museum casts in plaster of the antiques 
 contained in that institution. In a publication entitled " A Synopsis 
 of the Contents of the British Museum," there is a list of these 
 casts and of their prices. Some of them, especially the bas-reliefs, 
 could be conveyed to the colony in packing-cases at little cost, 
 affording very tasteful ornaments, whether for the public buildings 
 or for the larger rooms of private residences. 
 
 FUBNITUBE. As a general rule, take that which fills the least 
 space in proportion to its usefulness. Iron bedsteads, for instance, 
 should have the preference over cumbrous wooden ones, which can 
 be made in the colony. Iron rocking-chairs, too, pack within a very 
 small space, and are made so as to be very comfortable. Ladies 
 should take their pianos by all means. Ornamental furniture can 
 be made from the beautiful indigenous woods. 
 
 IBONMOXGEBT. Generally very useful. Take especially iron 
 fencing, gates, and guards for young trees. A few boat anchors and 
 chains will be of use. Also, two or three distinctive brands, with 
 your initials, for marking horses and cattle, with letters four inches 
 long; as well as a smaller one for marking cases and other goods. 
 
 FIBE-ARMS AND OTHER WEAPONS. Take a good double-barrelled 
 fowling-piece, holster and pocket pistols, and a good rifle. The 
 colonist is recommended to make himself acquainted with the recent 
 invention of the cycloid ball (7 to the ft.), which is thrown by 
 the ordinary Ordnance rifle to the distance of 600 yards with great 
 accuracy, and, with less certainty, as far as 800, and even 1200 
 yards. Mr. Lancaster, of Bond Street, has recommended this in- 
 vention for adoption in England, and will explain it to any person
 
 FOB EXPORTATION. -147 
 
 seeking information on the subject. It is almost needless to men- 
 tion shot, lead, bullet-moulds, wadding, &c. Whatever powder you 
 take should be at once handed over to the chief officer of the ship, 
 for deposit in the magazine. Mark the parcels with your name. 
 Take a sabre and an infantry sirord, both of the last regulation. A 
 very useful kind of shcalh-knifc, with belt attached, is made for ex- 
 portation to the Spanish West Indies, by W. & S. Butcher, of Shef- 
 field. It costs about l?s., and serves many purposes, from that of 
 a small bill-hook downwards. The colonist need hardly be told to 
 provide himself with bill-hooks, priming-knives, &c., of the best 
 quality, fitted into belts for the waist. 
 
 Excellent boar-spears are made at Paget's, Piccadilly. A few of 
 ill be useful. Take also eel-spears and grains. 
 
 AGRICULTURAL INSTRUMENTS. As a general rule, unless you 
 are going to a perfectly new settlement, do not burden yourself with 
 any that are bulky, as well as easy of construction, or with such, 
 recently brought into use in England, as are from the delicacy or 
 complexity of their formation difficult of repair. Take the wheels 
 and iron-work of carts and drays, the bodies of which can be made 
 in the colony. Take ploughs complete in the first instance : here- 
 after the wood-work will be done in the colony. Do not omit to 
 take spare iron-work, such as coulters, j)lonyh -shares, chains, rfc. : 
 these are constantly destroyed in the rough work of breaking-up 
 new land. 
 
 Bullocks are generally used in agricultural operations in the 
 Australian colonies and in New Zealand. They are harnessed with 
 iron liames, and a wooden yoke over the neck. The bullock-dray, 
 used instead of a waggon, has a pole, to the end of which the yoke 
 is fastened. 
 
 The Colonist's attention should be directed to the following 
 articles, with which he must provide himself according to his means 
 and his intentions. 
 
 For clearing and cultivating timbered land: 
 
 American axes, of various sizes. 
 
 Common English axes. (The natives can use these best). 
 
 Wedges, of various sizes, mallets, and spare rings for them, cross 
 cut saws, and pit-saws. 
 
 Log-chains. 
 
 Waggons, bullock-drays, and timber-drags. 
 
 Wheelbarrows, spades, shovels, and hoes, rakes, and pitchforks. 
 
 Augers (half-inch and inch), chisels, and other tools, hammers, 
 spikes, screws, and nails. 
 
 Pickaxes, and crowbars. 
 
 For cultivating and cropping either timbered or open land, you 
 will require, 
 
 Breaking-up and other ploughs. 
 
 Harrows, sickles, and reaping-hook?.
 
 448 WHAT TO BUY 
 
 Scythes, cradles, and snaths. 
 
 Padlocks and other locks, staples, and hinges for gates an 
 barn-doors. 
 
 Chatf-cutting machines. 
 
 New Zealand promises to be a great turnip country : so the 
 Colonist should provide himself with one of the recently invented 
 turnip-cutting machines most to his mind. Do not forget churns, 
 pans, pails, and other articles required for the Dairy. Among others, 
 perforated zinc for windows. 
 
 Inspect Ainslie's or Clayton's Drain-Tile Machines, and procure 
 a good stock of draining tools of all kinds. 
 
 A Horse-drill will prove useful on open land, and iu a few years' 
 time, when the stumps shall have been eradicated, on land reclaimed 
 from the forest. 
 
 A Farm Engine for distributing liquid manure will be taken by 
 good farmers. And generally, indeed, with the above-mentioned 
 precaution of taking nothing which is too difficult of repair, it is 
 well to carry with you machines which tend to economize hand 
 labour, always dear in new countries. If you can afford it, by all 
 means take a Thrashing-machine, adapted for horsr-poircr, but so 
 arranged lhat either wind or water power may be easily applied to 
 it, in case of need. Procure from Messrs. Ransome and May, of 
 Ipswich, a Catalogue of the Agricultural Implements manufactured 
 by them, and select therefrom. A Treatise on the Implements of 
 Agriculture, price 9s., has been written by Mr. J. A. Kausome, and 
 published by Ridgway. 
 
 BOATS, &c. In large ships there is always room for a good- 
 sized open boat to be turned bottom upwards over the long-boat. 
 This becomes of the greatest use in landing goods, and is always 
 valuable in so maritime a country. John Thompson, of Eother- 
 liilhc, made some excellent boats for the early Wellington Colonists, 
 and for the Company. The best size is about three or four tons' 
 burthen, carvel-built, coppered and copper-fastened, about 30 feet 
 long, built for sailing as well as rowing, with all the thwarts move- 
 able except that in which the mast is stepped, a rudder, a fore-sail, 
 and fore and-aft main-sail, boat-hook, anchors and chain, and double 
 set of good ashen oars. These latter, indeed, are a good investment 
 of money, and always saleable. The freight of such a boat will be 
 about 10/. The cost, complete, about OO/. to 1001. Spare canvas 
 and duck, and sailmaker's twine, palms, and needles, are also useful. 
 Boat-sails, indeed, may often be made on the passage at a cheap 
 rate by a sailmaker among the emigrants, or by one of the crew in 
 his leisure time. 
 
 Twine suitable for nets, and netting needles, may be of service 
 in the same way during the voyage. A good sean, ready for use on 
 arrival, is almost invaluable on the sea-coast of New Zealand, whfch 
 abounds with li>h.
 
 FOR EXPORTATION. 449 
 
 MATHEMATICAL INSTRUMENTS. The Colonist will best acquire 
 a knowledge of those required for surveying by reading Sintnw's 
 ' Treatise <JH the Principal Mathematical Instruments' This book 
 will also instruct him in the use of them. Every one should learn 
 the use of the pocket-sextant, and provide himself with that and a 
 good pocke t compass. Good boat -compasses, and even ships' com- 
 passes are also useful. 
 
 A p<jrtable telescope, such as is used for deer-stalking or by mili- 
 tary men, i/ a leathern case tcith belt to sling over one shoulder, is 
 almost iudispeusable to the owner of large herds of cattle, in order 
 to distinguish his brand at a distance.* Tronghton and Simms, of 
 Fleet Street, are the best mathematical instrument makers ; 
 Dolloud, in St. Paul's Churchyard, the best telescope- maker. 
 
 A i. INSTRUMENTS. According to each person's taste and 
 knowledge. The bugle and cornet a-pistou would be heard to 
 advantage among the echoes of the beautiful mountain scenery. 
 
 CRICKET APPARATUS is of service almost all the year round, 
 and the game is already in great vogue. 
 
 QUOITS, and other requisites for athletic out-of-door exercises 
 suited to fine weather, are also perfectly appropriate. 
 
 BIRDS. Every one should try to introduce Pheasants and 
 Partridges, which would both do well in all probability. As to the 
 former, do not take out too many cock-birds : one to every eight or 
 nine heus is the best proportion. 
 
 If possible, take Books, both for the sake of the peculiarly 
 EuglUh associations connected with them, and also for the sake of 
 their usefulness in destroying insects. 
 
 1'fi-fuirl, Susans, and Guinea-fowl, are also desirable emigrants. 
 
 GAME. It would he most desirable to introduce Red deer and 
 Fallow-deer into the Colony, as both would be sure to increase 
 rapidly ami nourish. The Australian Agricultural Company imported 
 several head of deer into Van Diemen's Land some years ago ; but 
 the cost of transport, and the result of the experiment, is not known. 
 
 Hares would also do well. They should be shipped as leverets, 
 and i- are should be taken not to give them too much soft food ; but 
 a sufficient supply of carrots &c. may be preserved in a wholesome 
 state during the whole journey, by burying them in a cask filled 
 with sand. There is no destructive animal of any kind in N. w 
 Zealand, so that game would be sure to increase rapidly. Kangaroos 
 from Australia, aud Lanuis of various kinds from South America, 
 might probably be introduced with advantage. 
 
 SEED* AND PLANTS. Although many English as well as foreign 
 plant* have already flourished in New Zealand, sufficiently to bear 
 seed, there is no harm in taking some of choice kind*, even of the 
 commonest things. Among the seeds most important are trheat, 
 
 ^ _^ _____ 
 
 * See pp. 109, 440.
 
 450 
 
 barley, oats, rye, buckwheat, maize, turnips, swedes, mangold wurZel, 
 rape, tares, vetches, lucerne, peas, beans, linseed, caraway, coriander, 
 clover, and grasses of all kinds. The seeds should be carefully col- 
 lected, if possible, by the colonist himself, or, at any rate, by some 
 sure friend. It is a great mistake to depend for your supply even 
 on the best seedsmen. Remember that if you chance to get rubbish 
 or inferior seed, it will be another year before you can repair the 
 error. Mr. Swaiuson, in describing his meadows on the banks of 
 the Hutt, in January, 18 t7, and the sorts of grasses already grow- 
 ing in them, dwells strongly on the quantity of inferior seed which 
 had been brought out by colonists. He mentions, as the grasses at 
 that time most wanting, Phleum pratense (Timothy gross) and 
 Cyiiosnrus crisfalns (dog's-tooth grass.)* A gentleman who brought 
 in 1842 some alfalfa seed (a kind of lucerne) from Chili, had 
 obtained seed so carelessly collected, that the principal part of the 
 crop consisted of South American weeds. So remember, if possible, 
 to pick your seeds yourself, and mark on the parcel when and where 
 you saw it growing. It is almost impossible here to enumerate all 
 the seeds that may be usefully taken ; as a general rule, whatever 
 is useful in England will be as much so in New Zealand; and, 
 moreover, many plants that flourish in warmer countries, such as 
 the South^ of France, Spain, Portugal, and Italy, may be expected to 
 succeed in the colony. 
 
 Of those plants or seeds which have been introduced into England 
 from warmer countries, the colonist should procure his stock from 
 the region of their original growth. Again premising that it is not 
 pretended to put down all that may be taken, the following seeds 
 are especially recommended to notice : 
 
 From England. Ifaw and oilier Thorns; Furze or Gorse ; 
 Heather; Acorns ; Horse Clicsinits; Beech nuts; Blue kin. rnj ; 
 Flower Seeds and Garden J'eyetables (except Potatoes') of all 
 kinds, and such English fruits as will propagate by seed. 
 
 From abroad or from hothouses: Melon, Gourd, Pumpkin, and 
 Cucumber; Tomato; Portuguese and Spanish Onion; Ahnaiul ; 
 Olives ; Peach, Apricot, and Nectarine ; Oranyc and Lemon ; 
 Cliesnnf, (the best arc from near Naples') ; Acorns of the Cork Oak 
 from Spain or Italy. 
 
 All seeds should be picked when fully ripe, and carefully kept dry 
 during the voyage. Various means of doing this have been tried, 
 such as soldering in tin cases, hermetically sealing, &c. But 
 perhaps the best way of all, is to wrap your seeds in separate bags of 
 thick brown paper, and put all these bags together in a strong canvas 
 sack, which mnst be so laid in a dry place, as to be easily got at during 
 the voyage ; then you must choose fine dry sunny days at intervals, 
 on which the sack may be emptied out. and each paper hag carefully 
 examined ; if any have become at all damp, hang them up to fhe 
 
 See page 151,
 
 FOR EXPORTATION. 4ol 
 
 roof of the cabin, or other convenient place until dry, and then re- 
 . them. The surn cabin in the poop is the best place for keep- 
 
 l'i \NT-. In many instances, cuttings or plants must be taken 
 out rather than seeds. Wooden cases filled with sand or earth, and 
 covered with a strong glazed frame, are provided for this purpose. 
 After choosing what plants you will take, the best plan is to have 
 them packed by some nurseryman who is in the habit of selling 
 plants for exportation, such as Loddige of Hackney, or Knight and 
 Perry of King's Itoad West, Chelsea. 
 
 After packing, all the joints of the case should be hermetically 
 sealed with some cement impenetrable to the air or salt water. The 
 glazed frame should be covered with a wire guard to prevent break- 
 ing. The boxes should be then fixed to the deck in some light 
 position, well out of the way of the sailors' manoeuvres, which will 
 be pointed out by an officer of the ship. On the edge of the poop 
 
 most .convenient place. 
 
 The most useful plants are: Fruit trees of all English kinds, 
 
 including Kntpberry, Currant, and Gooseberry cutlinys ; Forest 
 
 Ho; Vine. Olire. ami Mulberry; Lemon and Orange; 
 
 H -berry plants ; Rhododendron, Azalea, and Cainc- 
 
 lia ; ./?".<, Geranium, mid other Floircrs. 
 
 With regard to such plants as are found both in England and in 
 warmer countries, remember, as in the case of the seeds, to select 
 the misdating specimen from that temperature, whether natural or 
 artificial, which is most congenial to its perfect development. 
 
 Ii is not easy to determine whether a parasitical plant like the 
 tiiiftlitue can be transported, cither in seed or as a plant ; but to a 
 British Colonist, the experiment of planting the symbol of the 
 ancient Druids in the Britain of the South Seas, should at least seem 
 worth trying. 
 
 Many of the superior nurserymen, such as Messrs. Knight and 
 Perry, of King's-road West, Chelsea, who are assiduous in collecting 
 exotic plants which may be adapted to English horticulture, whether 
 in the hot-house or out of doors, would probably be willing to make 
 arrangements with respectable CdouKts. to supply them, not only 
 t their departure, but periodically afterwards, with such English 
 and foreign seeds and plants as they might require, on condition of 
 receiving an equivalent in return of select New Zealand seeds and 
 plants. Such an arrangement might at any rate be earned out be- 
 tween the Horticultural Societies at home and those in the colony, 
 with the additional advantage to the latter of a place in the publica- 
 tions of the Home Society. The same plant-boxes might be filled 
 with Enropean plants by the nurseryman, and with New Zealand 
 plants by the colonist. Tims a more complete knowledge would 
 soon be obtained of the best ways for preserving plants and seeds 
 during the long sea-voyage, and also of the vegetable productions 
 best adapted for interchange.
 
 452 HOW TO CARRY 
 
 MONEY. There are three ways of taking out capital to the 
 colony : 
 
 1. Take gold. This is probably the best way of all. Pack your 
 sovereigns in a strong wooden box, and pay freight and insurance 
 upon them. The insurance is 1 per cent. The freight in ordinary 
 ships is 2 per cent.; but the New Zealand Company have made 
 arrangements so as to charge only 1 per cent, freight on specie in 
 their ships. The whole cost of transport will therefore be, in an 
 ordinary ship, 4, in a Company's ship, 2^ per cent.* 
 
 2. Pay the money into the Union Bank of Australia, No. 38, Old 
 Broad-street, City, and take in exchange Letters of Credit on their 
 branches in the colony. For* this transaction, however, the Bank 
 now charges 2 per cent., having until very lately charged 4 per cent. ; 
 and, moreover, the letters of credit are not honoured in specie, but 
 in local notes of the Bank, promising to pay in bills at thirty days' 
 sight, bearing 2 per cent, premium, on other Australian branches. 
 This Bank has so complete a monopoly of the interchange of money 
 between England and the colony, that its other charges are equally 
 exorbitant. It charges 8 per cent, discount on a private bill drawn 
 on a party in the colony, and endorsed by two approved names in 
 London. It charges 2 per cent, premium in the colony for bills 
 drawn by the local Branch on the Bank in London; D per cent, 
 discount on approved private bills on London drawn by parties in 
 the colony; and 10 per cent, per annum discount on local bills of 
 exchange, current for not exceeding three months. 
 
 The following are some particulars relating to the UNION BANK 
 OF AUSTRALIA: 
 
 DIRECTORS. 
 
 Robert Brooks, Esq. 
 
 Robert Carter, Esq. 
 
 James John Cummins, Esq. 
 
 Robt. Gardner, Esq., Manchester. 
 
 John Gore, Esq. 
 
 Benjamin E. Liudo, Esq. 
 
 Charles Edward Mangles, Esq. 
 Thomas Sands, Esq., Liverpool. 
 James Bogle Sinilh, Esq. 
 James Ruddel Todd, Esq. 
 William Wilson, Esq. 
 Thomas Young, Esq. 
 
 TRUSTEES. 
 
 George Carr Glyn, Esq. 
 John Gore, Esq. 
 James John Cummins, Esq. 
 
 BANKERS. 
 
 Messrs. Glyn, Halifax, Mills, & Co. 
 
 SOLICITORS. 
 
 Messrs. Beddome and Weir. 
 
 SECRETARY. 
 
 Samuel Jackson, Esq. 
 
 * If the sum be above 500/., a reduction is made in the rate of 
 freight
 
 MONEY TO THE COLONY. 453 
 
 v ^TOB. 
 
 John Cuiuiiiigbaui M'Laren, Esq. 
 
 AGEM-. 
 
 The Bank of Ireland. 
 '1 he National Provincial Bank of England. 
 The National Bank of Scotland. 
 
 />ool The Bank of Liverpool. 
 
 Bristol Messrs. Charles Hill fc C-. 
 
 c.i./. ; i . . .Messrs Grants & Gillman, Bank 
 Plymouth. . . .The Devon & Cornwall Banking Company. 
 
 EXTRACTS FBOM THE TENTH AxM'AL REPORT, presented to the 
 Proprietors, on the 17th July, 1*18; 
 
 In their Supplementary Report, presented in January last, the 
 Directors briefly communicated the substance of Mr. M'Laren's 
 very satisfactory Report of inspection, made on his return from 
 >i>itiug the Branches in Van Diemen's Laud, and New South Wales. 
 
 The accounts since received from the Managers fully justify 
 that report ; and although the depressed state of the wool market in 
 Kngland, in addition to the high price of labour in Australia, must 
 for a time press heavily upon the colonial settlers and the trade, yet 
 the Directors are glad to be able to state, from their recent advice*, 
 that the Inspector and Managers are prepared for the events that 
 may arise, and are prudently adopting measures' to protect the 
 interests of the Bank. 
 
 " The steps taken by Government to promote emigration will afford 
 nn>-t timely and important relief to the colonies, and it is very 
 gratifying to the Directors to find that the value and necessity of a 
 well reflated system of emigration and colonization is fully reco- 
 "iriso'l by the legislature at home, and felt by every one who under- 
 stands the mutual interests and relative circumstances of the colonies 
 and the mother country. 
 
 "The improvement which has taken place in the internal con 
 dition and general circumstances of the New Zealand colonies, has 
 induced the Inspector to open a Branch at Auckland, the seat of 
 government. t<> which Mr. Alexander Kennedy has been appointed 
 Manager. The Branch had only commenced its operations at the 
 date of the last advices. 
 
 " The Directors now proceed to submit their annual statement of 
 accounts, the general result of which enables them to declare a 
 dh iil'-ml at the rate of G per cent, per annum on the entire paid up 
 capital of the Bank, to be payable in London on the 1st of | 
 anil in the colonies as soon as the Inspector shall fix, after receipt 
 of advices. 
 
 " The dividend will be paid free of income tax, and, in order to 
 r.|ii,ih/i i In- diuMon, ',,1. in the pound will be added upoti such 
 dividends as are paid iu the coloLi
 
 454 HOW TO CARRY 
 
 Liabilities. s. d. 
 
 Bills Payable 1 07,072 5 
 
 Sundry Balances 4,358 5 7 
 
 Reserve Fund (10 per cent.) 06,384 16 1 
 
 Profit and Loss 45,863 13 2 
 
 102,248 3 
 
 Paid up Capital 820,000 
 
 1,033,678 19 10 
 
 Assets. 
 
 Branch Accounts (Balance) 426,686 5 
 
 Bills Receivable 123,652 6 10 
 
 Investments, Government Stock, and Loans on 
 
 Security 464,269 7 7 
 
 Insurances and Open Policies, &c 9,027 14 2 
 
 Cash 10,043 6 3 
 
 1,033,678 19 10 
 
 Statement of Profits. 
 
 Balance of Undivided Profit at June, 1847 37,677 10 1 1 
 
 To which are now to be added Profits 
 for the Year ending at the Branches 
 31st Dec. 1847, and at London 
 Office 30th June, 1848, after de- 
 ducting amount of bad debts to 
 the above-mentioned date .... 63,762 611 
 
 Deduct one-tenth for Reserve Fund 6,376 4 8 
 
 57,386 2 3 
 
 95,063 13 2 
 Deduct Dividend paid at Midsummer, 
 
 1847 24,600 
 
 Ditto ditto Christmas 24,600 
 
 1 49,200 
 
 Balance of Undivided Profit at this Date 45,863 13 2 
 
 Reserve Fund. 
 
 At June, 1847, as per Statement 50,00811 5 
 
 Add to June, 1848, as per Contra 6,376 4 8 
 
 56,384 16 1
 
 MOSEY TO THE COLOXY. 405 
 
 "COLONIAL ESTABLISHMENTS. 
 
 " Colonial Inspector. John Cunningham M'Laren, Esq. 
 
 "Xw SOUTH WALES. STDXET: Local Director* John GQ- 
 elirist, Esq.; W. Fane de Sails, Esq.; William Fanning, Esq. 
 Manager James Sea, Esq. BATHUBST : Local Director* Georye 
 Busby, Esq. ; William Lee, Esq. Manager David Kenned 
 MELBOURNE: Local Directors William Highett, Esq.; William 
 Lonsdale, Esq. ; Thomas Wills, Esq. Manager William Fletcher, 
 Esq. GEELOXG: Loral Directors Foster Fyans, Esq.; John 
 M. C. Airey, Esq. Manager J. Matheson, Esq. PORTLAND : 
 Local Director James Blair, Esq. Manager Charles Robertson, 
 t<q. 
 
 "VAX DIBMBIT'S LAND. HOBABT Tome: Local Directors 
 Alexander McNanghton, Esq.; Askin Morrison, Esq. Manager 
 pro tern. N. Greskr, Esq. LACXCBSTOV : Local Director Philip 
 Oakden, Esq'. Manager Mervyn Mann, Esq. 
 
 NEW ZEALAND. WELLINGTON: Manager Alexander Mac- 
 donald, Esq. NKLSOX : Manager pro tern. E. D. Sweet, Esq. 
 AUCKLAND : Manager Alexander Kennedy, Esq.' 
 
 Should colonization proceed with rigour, it Till become abso- 
 lutely necessary for the Colonists to establish a Bank of their own, 
 conducted on more equitable principles. This is one of the matters 
 in which the absentee owners of land in New Zealand might render 
 the actual colonists valuable service, and at the same time provide 
 themselves with an economical channel of remittance between them- 
 selves and their agents. 
 
 3. The third method is to buy a private bill of exchange or letter 
 of credit drawn on the colony by some party in London. These 
 may often be bought at par, or the drawer will sometimes even pay 
 from two to five per cent, discount, rather than pay eight per cent, 
 to the Bank. But the colonist must be wary of buying a bad bill. 
 He should inquire both as to the drawer and as to the party drawn 
 on; and should peruse the letter advising a balance to the credit of 
 the drawer. Inquiry should be made of the Clerk of the Colonists' 
 Boom at New Zealand House, who is well acquainted with most of 
 the merchants and landowners connected with New Zealand in 
 this country, and with their representatives in the colony. 
 
 LAND ORDERS AND LAND. In former chapters will be found 
 details of the methods of buying in this country, from the Company, 
 land in their different settlements. Many landowners, however, 
 reside in England : and they frequently have portions of land, 
 included in the original sales of the Company, to be bought on 
 good terms. But here, again, the colonist mnst be cautions, in 
 buying of a stranger, or in buying land of which he can obtain no 
 account from some one who has actually seen it and can give him
 
 456 HOW TO BUY LAND 
 
 some description of it. By referring back to the former part of tliis 
 book, the intending purchaser will find a general description of 
 most of the districts already sold by the Company: and he should 
 ascertain in what part of any such district the land in question is 
 situated, whether any of it be cleared, cultivated, or tenanted, and 
 how far it lies from the nearest road to the chief town of the 
 settlement. 
 
 Owing to the withholding of the Company's titles for so long in 
 all the settlements except Otago, the only title deeds at present are 
 the original land-orders from the Company, the certificates of 
 selection, and the certificates of transfer in the Company's books. 
 The laud-orders were issued in duplicate, and are signed by three 
 Directors and by the Secretary of the Company, the certificates of 
 selection are signed by the Clerk of the land-office and the Com- 
 pany's Agent in the particular settlement, and the certificates of 
 transfer by the Secretary of the Company. In many cases one part, 
 and in some cases both parts, of the Land-order, and in almost all 
 cases the certificate of selection remains in the colony with the 
 owner's agent: but as a general rule, from whicli there may be 
 exceptions, the purchaser should not be satisfied without at least 
 one part of the land-order, the Secretary's certificate of transfer, 
 and a letter in duplicate from the vendor to his iii/cnl in I/in colon;/, 
 ordering him to hand over all other documents relating to the l/unl 
 in question to the buyer or his assigns. The Secretary, before 
 issuing his certificate, requires a printed form to be filled up, signed 
 by both vendor and purchaser, requesting him to register the trans- 
 action. The printed form is supplied at New Zealand House. A 
 fee of 5s. is charged on each transfer certificate. 
 
 Whether you buy from the Company, or from a private individual, 
 do not buy too much land. Nothing is more out of place in the 
 colony, than a man possessed of vast tracts of land, but with no 
 capital to make them available. 
 
 In buying from private individuals, the purchaser will do well to 
 try and suit himself before leaving England; as most of the 
 absentee landowners have granted no power of sale to their agents 
 in the colony. If he cannot succeed, he will always be able to 
 select afterwards from the land saleable in the colony. The 
 Company, as will be seen by their regulations, hold out great 
 inducements to purchasers of land-orders in this country. In their 
 new settlements, indeed, but a very small portion of land is reserved 
 for sale in the colony : and the first choice of allotments is invari- 
 ably open to the earlier purchasers in London. 
 
 There are some few persons in England, holders of extensive 
 grants of land about Auckland and other northern parts of the 
 Colony, who occasionally offer portions of their grants at very low 
 prices, having originally paid a mere trifle for them. The intending 
 purchaser will do well to remember that in buying such land, he
 
 BOOKS, MAPS, ETC. 
 
 would be investing liis money in a part of the country where a'l 
 chance of a large immigration fund has been lost by tiie reckless 
 manner in which land has been alienated by the Crown to private 
 individuals ;* and where, therefore, there is little hope of a steady 
 supply of labour, or of any of those institutions and circumstances 
 tending to give an increased value to land, which are the result of 
 matic colonization, such as has been, and is, carried on by the 
 Now Zealand Company and the Colonizing Associations connected 
 with it. Especially let him weigh the advantages of abundant re- 
 ligious and educational provision made by those Associations in the 
 Southern settlements, as contrasted with the total want of it in the 
 hap-hazard settlements of the North. 
 
 BOOKS, MAPS, and ENGRAVING-;. Every person who intends to 
 adopt New Zealand as his future home will take care to supply 
 himself with a good collection of these cheerful companions. it 
 would be presumption to point ont what particular books should be 
 taken : bnt it may not be amiss to direct attention to such as relate 
 especially to New Zealand. In Appendix D is a list of all publica- 
 tions that are known to hare been made relating to New Zealand. 
 
 Arrangements can easily be made after arrival and settlement in 
 the colony for the formation of book-clubs, to be supplied periodically 
 with snch new publications as they may desire. Before starting, 
 each family should arrange so as to receive regularly a file of some 
 weekly London paper. Those which, like the Sprrtator, Examiner, 
 and Alht-ntfuin, contain fnll notices of literary, dramatic, and musical 
 subjects, are the most satisfactory to a colonist. 
 
 Good engravings will be a great ornament to the rooms of the 
 colonist who cannot afford to take valuable paintings with him. 
 All the engravings that have ever been published can be seen at the 
 British Museum, where there is a room set apart for them, open to 
 
 * In a despatch dated November 1 1 , 1847, Governor Grey reports 
 that " within a tract of country extending seven miles on every side 
 of Auckland, only 3600 acres of land are left unclaimed, wLil-t 
 upwards of 1000 acres of this small quantity is quite nnavailal>l< :. 
 being covered with rocks;" and that " even within a radius of 1 .' 
 miles from Auckland, but very small portions of land remain, 
 which are not claimed by the penny-an-acre purchasers." In a 
 subsequent despatch, dated December 4, 1MT. he adds, "much 
 injury has been inflicted upon the colony, by these grants of land 
 having been given to people, who in ma cannot, and in 
 
 other instances never intend to use iheui, as also l.y the public 
 having lost a large extent of laud, which those who have obtained 
 it e.mltl now sell for from 7/. to Htf. per acre, whilst the means of 
 emigration and of making roads have ! 
 
 Pur. Papers, A T . Z., pretexted by eentmtauJ, September, Ivte, pp. 
 11 U. 
 
 ft B
 
 458 HINTS FOR THE PASSAGE 
 
 any respectable person who chooses to apply for admittance. Take 
 the engravings carefully packed, in cases lined with tin, and soldered : 
 frames can be made from the handsome indigenous woods of New 
 Zealand. 
 
 A FEW HINTS FOR THE PASSAGE. 
 
 This interval of about four months may be easily 
 turned to some account by the really industrious pas- 
 senger. After the first troubles of sea-sickness are 
 over, study of any kind is most welcome as an aid to 
 get over the tediousness of the voyage. 
 
 If the habit have not been acquired before, learn to 
 keep a diary. No matter how little there may be to 
 record; make it a point to jot down something every 
 day; if you can think of nothing else, copy the ship's 
 daily log. The main point is to acquire the habit of 
 keeping a daily journal. It is impossible to over-rate 
 the utility of this practice when once thoroughly ac- 
 quired. 
 
 Fix upon some particular subject to be studied during 
 the voyage. A great deal of any subject may be learned 
 by four months' assiduous application, and the daily 
 progress made will furnish matter for the diary. 
 
 There can be no better opportunity for learning the 
 use of the sextant and other astronomical instruments; 
 and navigation and seamanship generally, which are 
 always useful. 
 
 It is almost needless to recommend as much exercise, 
 on deck, as the weather will allow. If you want a good 
 salt-water bath, remember that, except in very rough 
 weather, the decks are washed at sunrise, or soon after, 
 every morning. So go on deck in a bathing-dress, and 
 let the sailors throw pails of water over you. 
 
 HINTS ON ARRIVAL IN THE COLONY. 
 
 If you have chosen to take part in the foundation of 
 a perfectly new Settlement, the first thing to be done 
 is to erect some shelter for your family and for your 
 goods. Until each person shall have chosen his land, a
 
 AND ON ARRIVAL. 459 
 
 spot will probably be allotted for temporary occupation, 
 to any one applying for it, by the Company's Agent or 
 Chief Surveyor. If you are going to a settlement al- 
 ready established, find a lodging for your family and 
 store-room for your goods in the first instance. 
 
 In either case, as soon as ever this preliminary step 
 shall have been taken, start off to see your land, if you 
 have bought any in England. If you have bought a 
 Land-order in England, hasten to examine carefully all 
 the land from which you have a right to select, and 
 choose as soon as ever you are enabled. If you intend 
 to buy land in the colony, ascertain at once what land 
 is for sale there, and go to see it. In any case, do not 
 waste time in idleness, or be too long looking about you 
 without an object. Determine quickly what you in- 
 tend to do, and then set about it. 
 
 Do not listen to people who force their acquaintance 
 on you in order either to grumble at hardships real or 
 imaginary, or to praise inordinately everything in the 
 colony: such persons constantly annoy new-comers, 
 from the time of the ship's arrival in the port until the 
 Colonist has entered steadily upon his adopted life; you 
 may generally depend on it that they are actuated either 
 by self-interest, or by foolish vanity and idleness. 
 Avoid them, and judge very much for yourself. This 
 advice is of course intended for perfect strangers, know- 
 ing no one in the place where they arrive, and not pos- 
 sessing a sincere and earnest letter of friendly intro- 
 duction to some experienced Colonist. The guidance 
 of such a friend is undoubtedly most valuable. If really 
 at a loss for advice, apply to the New Zealand Com- 
 pany's Agent in the particular settlement. He is less 
 interested in setting you wrong, and more interested in 
 setting you right, than probably any one else there; 
 and he is sure to possess the most knowledge on the 
 very points in which you want it. 
 
 Whether you buy land in the colony, or have bought 
 a Land-order from the Company entitling you to select
 
 460 HOW TO BUY AND 
 
 land there, neither buy nor select any land till you have 
 seen and carefully examined it. 
 
 The book already recommended, the American Far- 
 mer's and Emigrant's Handbook, begins with these 
 words: 
 
 " Those emigrants who decide upon purchasing wild land, whether 
 forest or prairie, should be exceedingly cautious in every stage of 
 the business. Everything depends on making a good selection. 
 We have known persons to toil on for years, with little advantage 
 to themselves, and then give back the land they had purchased and 
 partly paid for, simply because of having made a bad choice at the 
 outset. A mistake of the kind alluded to, is a most serious one to 
 the new settler. Besides the waste of time and money it occasions, 
 it tends to discourage him, and seldom does he fully recover from 
 the disaster. The emigrant should not be in too great a hurry to 
 get settled. Although it is desirable that he get a home as early as 
 practicable, and begin his arduous labours, it is poor policy to pur- 
 chase without much consideration. It is of the very highest im- 
 portance that he see the land before piirclutsiiiy it. On this point 
 we cannot be too urgent. As a general rule, it is utterly unsafe to 
 buy land on the strength of glowing advertisements, or the repre- 
 sentations of ordinary land-agents. There are most honourable 
 exceptions to this rule, of course, but they are few. We repeat, buy no 
 land until you luive seen and carefully examined it." pp. 1 & ',!. 
 
 All localities in New Zealand appear to be equally 
 healthy. The settler will then select his location with 
 a view to its proximity, by good roads, to a good 
 market; and he should especially have an eye to the 
 convenience of churches, schools, medical men, a Post- 
 office, and the like. All these things are very de- 
 sirable, and to secure them it were better to be satisfied 
 with a less quantity of land, or that of a poorer 
 quality. 
 
 Again, quoting from the American Hand-book 
 
 " The convenience of a griit-mitt should not be overlooked. We 
 have known of very great hardships endured in some regions, from 
 tlie want of means of getting bread-stuffs properly ground. It will 
 be well to make particular inquiries on this point before purchasing. 
 
 " In short, let the settler consider the various conveniences 
 which will render his life, and that of his children, comfortable, and 
 in the outset secure as many of them as he can. It is far better to 
 buy a small quantity of laud with good advantages, thau a large
 
 JUDGE OF LAND. 461 
 
 quantity without them. Your children will need instruction, and 
 you should not place yourself beyond the reach of schools, or the 
 : of schools at an early day ; the time of sickness will come, 
 and you will want medical attendance ; the hour of mourning and 
 serious reflection may arrive, and the consolations of religion from 
 the lips of the Christian minister will be truly welcome. See, 
 therefore, that there be a reasonable prospect of having all these 
 tilings at no distant day in your new home." p. I'-t. 
 
 The quality of wild land may be judged of, if tim- 
 bered, by the kinds and size of the trees. That is 
 generally the best soil, on which the fiiniii, Totara, 
 Mai, and Kahikatea pines, interspersed with Tana and 
 Kata trees, grow to a large size. The trees should, as 
 a general rule, be tall, and branching only near the top. 
 
 If tlje trees be low in size, or scraggy, the soil is 
 clayey and cold. The Manuka tree, and the Taicai 
 or Black birch, are commonly signs of inferior clayey 
 or stony land. The Pukatta in abundance, or a great 
 prevalence of the parasitical Kiekie* among the branches 
 of that and other trees, is a sign of wet and swampy 
 lands. 
 
 Take an iron ramrod with you, sharpened at the end. 
 By this means you can tell whether knobs or knolls, on 
 the surface of uneven land, are caused by rocks and 
 large stones, or not. You will also be able to ascertain 
 whether the subsoil be clayey or the reverse, which you 
 could not otherwise so readily determine, as the top of 
 all timbered land is usually covered with the black 
 mould of decayed vegetable matter. 
 
 The quality of fern land, or of grassy and shrub- 
 covered land, is much more easily determined by the 
 eye. The height of the fern, the luxuriance of the 
 grass and shrubs, are excellent guides. On inferior 
 land, the fern is stunted, the grass grows in scattered 
 wiry tufts, flax is very scarce and quite dwarfish, 
 and other shrubs almost unseen. An unmixed growth 
 
 * See pages 140 to 14'.', for descriptors of the trees here men- 
 tioned.
 
 462 HOW TO BUY 
 
 of stunted manuka is a bad sign, a quantity of 
 ft'-ghrttbs, commonly called the cabbage- tree, a very good 
 one. Of open land, that should be preferred which 
 has some timber upon it, or which is not too distant 
 from a cheap supply. Timber is wanted for fuel, 
 fencing, and house-building; though the proximity of 
 coal and the knowledge of building the earthen houses 
 called Pise* will do away with its necessity for the first 
 and last of those purposes. 
 
 Do not purchase too much land; especially if you 
 take it on credit. Many is the man who, in America 
 and other new countries, has been ruined by not being 
 careful in this particular. Land-holders and land- 
 agents are too apt to induce the purchaser to buy freely; 
 especially if he make a pretty good down-payment. 
 
 It is usually the custom for persons selling to require 
 one-fourth or one-fifth of the purchase-money down, 
 and the balance in four or five equal annual instalments; 
 the interest on the amount due to be paid every year. 
 In the early history of a settler, ready money is not 
 plentiful; and it will make a very great difference 
 whether he has to pay the interest on a large or on a 
 small sum. Besides this, a small farm well cultivated 
 is better than a large one poorly tilled. The author of 
 the American Hand-book, so often quoted, and from 
 whose words much of this advice is adapted to the 
 circumstances of New Zealand, says: 
 
 " We have lifid the very best opportunities of understanding tliis 
 subject, and we earnestly advise the reader to be moderate in bis 
 purchase of laud. In all our experience, we have scarcely ever 
 found an individual who could manage to pay for and clear over a 
 hundred acres ; the majority are uot safe in contracting for more, 
 iior indeed for so much." p. lf>. 
 
 Another plan is to take a lease of the land, with a 
 purchasing clause, enabling you to buy at a fixed price, 
 or at a valuation, at certain fixed periods. Leases are 
 
 * For an elaborate description of the methods of ranking 1'ise 
 bouses, see the Fanner's and Emigranft Handbook, pp. ?x} to bO.
 
 AND HIRE LAM'. 463 
 
 generally granted free of rent for the first three or four 
 ou condition of clearing and fencing in, or 
 draining, a certain amount of land. In this case, there 
 is no down-payment; and the rent does not commence 
 immediately, like the interest of the purchase-money 
 remaining due; so that this arrangement is a better 
 one tor the tenant and intending purchaser, as it enables 
 him to apply the whole of his capital to the improve- 
 ment of the land. He should take care, however, to 
 have it clearly expressed in the lease, if a valuation be 
 mentioned, whether it is to include his own improve- 
 ments or not. at the end of the fixed period, and make 
 his calculations accordingly. It will probably be found 
 best to Haine -Ajixcd price in the purchasing clause, as 
 the tenant will be less likely to expend his capital in 
 improvements, if they are to augment the price which 
 he is ultimately to pay. 
 
 Let land-owners not be too anxious for high rent? at 
 first, or for large down- payments, or to sell too exten- 
 sive allotments to individuals. In the early stages of 
 the settlement, it is far more important to all, including 
 the land-owner, to have the cultivators succeed, than 
 to produce a large immediate revenue from unimproved 
 land. 
 
 Having entered into contract for such a quantity of 
 land as you have reason to believe you can pay for, 
 fun-i' >t surveyed. Do not omit this. You will thus 
 avoid much future trouble and annoyance. In the case 
 of selecting land with an Order from the New Zealand 
 Company, this is done by their Surveyor who puts you 
 in possession. 
 
 The sooner you get deeds of your land, the better. 
 In case of a lease, get that executed immediately. 
 
 Before building a house on timbered land, it is 
 essential to clear and burn oif a sufficient space round 
 the spot first. From a neglect of this precaution, some 
 settlers have had their wooden houses destroyed, when 
 they set fire to the fallen timber. Do not dear too
 
 464 HINTS ON ARRIVAL. 
 
 much at once; and if in a windy situation, leave belts 
 of timber standing so as to protect the cleared spots 
 from the force of the wind. Leave your belts broader 
 than you intend them finally to be: the trees on the 
 edge will die off, as it takes some time for trees, which 
 during many years have had only their tops exposed, 
 to become habituated to a freer atmosphere. After you 
 have burned off your first clearing of a few acres, then 
 build your house, and remove your family, and such of 
 your goods as are immediately required, from their first 
 location on landing. But it will be as well not to build 
 this first habitation, even on your own ground, in too 
 permanent a manner: if you have as much as 100 
 acres of timbered land together, it is very likely that 
 you will not discover the best site for a house within that 
 space, until you shall have cleared nearly the whole of it. 
 
 As soon as possible after landing, put your seeds and 
 plants into a bit of good land. If you cannot get any 
 of your -own, or of a friend's, ready in time, hire a 
 piece: especially if the best season for sowing or plant- 
 ing be passing away. 
 
 If you have imported cattle or sheep either from 
 England or from New South Wales, keep them up at 
 first, or they will be apt to gorge themselves with the 
 poisonous tutu-p\a.nt.* This does not apply at all to 
 horses, asses, mules, goats, or pigs; which may be 
 turned out to graze at once without fear. 
 
 With a view to the collection in the Colony of 
 scientific information and specimens of Natural History, 
 to be sent to England, procure the Printed Directions 
 which have been framed on the subject in the different 
 departments of the British Museum; copy, from La 
 Perouse's Voyages, the instructions which were issued 
 to the. members of that expedition by the French 
 scientific bodies; and read a book called What to 
 Observe, 1 vol. 8vo, by Colonel Jackson, Secretary of 
 the Royal Geographical Society. 
 
 * See p. 148.
 
 -II AM NAVIGATION AND COAL. 
 
 
 APPENDICES. 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 
 STEAM NAVIGATION TO NEW ZEALAND, AND 
 NEW ZEALAND COAL. 
 
 IN th. Xt '/..nlind Journal of 22nd May, 1847, 
 No. 195, page 153, there is the following : 
 
 - 1 BACT of the performance of the Inflexible steam-sloop. Com- 
 mander J. C. Iloseason, on her passage from Spilhead to the Cape 
 of Good Hope, and subsequently from the Cape to Sydi:- 
 South Wales, and thence to New Zealand." 
 
 Date. 
 
 Coal 
 
 < -'M-uin [ '. i' ''".. 
 
 Distance 
 ran by 
 patent log. 
 
 Under steam or sail. 
 
 
 Tons. Cwt. 
 
 
 
 Augu -t l' 
 
 -,') 1 
 
 U 
 
 Steam. 
 
 11 
 
 16 U 
 
 177^ 
 
 Steam. 
 
 ,, I'-J 
 
 14 
 
 
 Steam and sail. 
 
 13 
 
 SI !-- 
 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 .. u 
 
 ! 8 
 
 174 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 .. 1.-. 1-2 
 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 .. Hi in Hi 
 
 1--" 
 
 in. 
 
 ., 17 
 
 in 1' 
 
 
 Steam and sail. 
 
 .. 1- 
 
 in 11 
 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 .. r.i 
 
 '.i ia 
 
 170 
 
 l>itn. 
 
 .. Mil 11 M 
 
 I'M' 
 
 I'iiu,. 
 
 -1 ! 1 
 
 182 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 .',' - 9 
 
 
 Ditto. ' 
 
 . <a i-' i! 
 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 .. -J4 
 
 11 -> 
 
 11,7 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 ^-"' 
 
 10 17 
 
 104 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 20 
 
 10 1C, 
 
 188 
 
 Ditto.
 
 466 
 
 VOYAGE OF H. M. STEAM-SLOOP 
 
 Date. 
 
 Coal 
 Consumption. 
 
 Distance 
 run by 
 patent log. 
 
 Under steam or sail. 
 
 1846. 
 
 Tons. Cwt. 
 
 
 
 August 27 
 
 11 8 
 
 1781 
 
 Steam and sail. 
 
 28 
 
 11 10 
 
 1641 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 ,, 29 
 
 15 12 
 
 159 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 30 
 
 13 2 
 
 162 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 31 
 
 8 9 
 
 153 
 
 Steam and sail, arid 
 partly sail alone. 
 
 Sept. 1 
 
 . . . . 
 
 137 
 
 Sail. 
 
 
 
 . . 
 
 141 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 " 3 
 
 . . 
 
 X68 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 * 
 
 
 165 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 5) & 
 
 . 
 
 177 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 6 
 
 . . . . 
 
 144 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 7 
 
 3 9 
 
 m { 
 
 The first part sail, the 
 latter steam. 
 
 8 
 
 12 4 
 
 186 
 
 Steam and sail. 
 
 9 
 
 13 10 
 
 10-2 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 10 
 
 13 15 
 
 188 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 11 
 
 13 
 
 195 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 12 
 
 11 2 
 
 *165a 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 13 
 
 10 16 
 
 182 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 14 
 
 11 4 
 
 153 
 
 Steam. 
 
 15 
 
 11 ' 7 
 
 127 j 
 
 Steam the latter part 
 sail alone. 
 
 16 
 
 . . . . 
 
 90 
 
 Sail. 
 
 > * ' 
 
 9 12 
 
 132 
 
 Partly sail, partly steam. 
 
 , 18 
 
 . . 
 
 186 
 
 Sail. 
 
 , 19 
 
 . , . . 
 
 144 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 , 20 
 
 % B 
 
 ;>> ~ 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 , 21 
 
 . . . . 
 
 89J 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 , 22 
 
 
 107 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 , 23 
 
 . . . 
 
 83 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 , 24 
 
 . . 
 
 195 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 , 25 
 
 . > . . 
 
 164 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 26 
 
 4 2 
 
 108 j 
 
 Steam and sail (at St. 
 Helena). 
 
 27 
 
 8 11 
 
 80 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 ,, 28 
 
 6 1 
 
 50 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Arrived in Table Bay.
 
 INFLEXIBLE TO NEW ZEALAND. 467 
 
 Distance ran by patent log- 
 Under sail ., 
 
 Under steam and sail 
 
 Total in 50 days ......... 7725J 
 
 Consumption of coals ............ 37-4 tons, 12 ewt. 
 
 " In tbe second voyage from Simon's Bay to Port Jackson, 
 Sydney, from November 8 to December 13, the distance ran was _ 
 
 Undersoil 103<j 
 
 Steam and sail .. MM 
 
 Total in 30 days 6302 
 
 Tons. cwt. UTS. 
 Consumption of coals during the voyage... 40$ 10 
 
 Do. do. per day 15 3 2 
 
 Do. do. per hour 13 
 
 " It appears tbe Inflexible steamer ran 1231 nautical miles against 
 a dead foul wind, during which time she spoke tbe Wanderer brigui- 
 tine, and St. George fast-sailing merchantman, and reported the 
 former I'-J days and tbe latter G days before their arrival at Port 
 Jackson ; after making which port the Inflexible, in the words of 
 our correspondent's letter, was " ready to sail for Auckland, New 
 Zealand, with 4*<0 tons of coal in her bunkers, three months' pro- 
 visions and water for her increased complement of 100 men, 20,0007. 
 in specie, and two officers and 34 rank and file of the 65th regiment 
 and their baggage." 
 
 " The Inflexible arrived at Auckland from Port Jackson on the 
 j-"ith of January, having made the journey between those places (a 
 distance of 1300 miles) in seven days." 
 
 In the New Zealand Journal of the 9th and 23rd 
 October, 1847, Xos. 205 and 206, there is a detailed 
 account of this voyage. There is only room here for 
 the following extracts: 
 
 "The Inflexible measures 1123 tons, and was built at Milford 
 Haven in 1846. Her engines are of older construction, and were 
 originally intended fur another ship, as the appearance of the 
 cylinder shafts above deck tends to show. Her two direct acting 
 marine engines are of the nominal horse power of liTo horses, and 
 are fitted with the expansive gear. Her four boilers are oblong 
 shaped, with three flues to each. The engine-room is about one- 
 half less than in the old engines ; this great saving is owing chiefly
 
 408 VOYAGE OF H. M. STEAM-SLOOP 
 
 to the cranks being placed, find acting directly above the cylinders. 
 The operation of the expansive principle is tliat \vliicb effects the 
 great saving in the expenditure of fuel. As the action of the wind 
 on the sails assists ill propelling the vessel, there is, therefore, so 
 much the less steam power required in order to maintain the neces- 
 sary speed. By the plan introduced of cutting oft' the steirm in its 
 passage to the cylinder, and causing the piston to work expansively, 
 this saving is effected, hoth simply and efficiently, and is regulated 
 with accuracy, according to the state of the weather and the speed 
 attained. On the passage to Australia, sufficient steam was gene- 
 rated by the employment of nine, and frequently only six flues out 
 of the twelve, to acquire a speed of from seven to eight knots. The 
 usual practice is to work the engine expansively, excepting when 
 the speed is reduced to six knots on which occasion the full steam 
 is then applied. When the wind is strong in favour, with a mode- 
 rate sea, the steam power employed on the expansive system is little 
 more than what may be just necessary to turn the paddles. Great 
 facilities are afforded during the application of the expansive prin- 
 ciple for cleaning out the boilers, which can be done in turn, without 
 diminishing the ordinary speed, and by frequently performing it, the 
 accumulation of sediment is prevented, thereby promoting the 
 preservation and safety of the boilers. Coal boxes are ranged 
 between the machinery, and sides of the vessel, and are thus made 
 subservient to preserve the vital parts against injuries more peculiar 
 to war steamers. The capacity of the Inflexible for fuel is ;">i0 
 tons. Her large paddle boxes, although fitted with a life-boat on 
 each, and comprehending places for culinary and other useful 
 purposes, are an obstruction during head winds and heavy seas. 
 By the frequent alternate emersion and immersion of the paddle 
 wheels, much power is lost in ocean steaming, and the application 
 of the screw principle on this voyage is still a desideratum 
 promising greater results. The plan of ' disconnecting' has been in 
 use by war steamers for some time, but is effected in the ln/li.ii!>/<> 
 on a different principle from that formerly in use, and which occupies 
 one-tenth of the time; it is that of the friction strap, and merely 
 requires the turning of two screws, and striking aside the key-; 
 which connect the parts, in order to set the paddles free of the 
 engine. 
 
 " On her departure from Devonport on the Oth August last, the 
 Inflexible had i!0'-i tons of coals in her boxes, considerably less than 
 her quantum ; 80 tons of patent fuel intended for her use having 
 been left behind probably in consequence of the large amount of 
 dead weight already on board, being not less than 150 In 
 exclusive of fuel. The total weight of cargo, fuel, engines, boilri , 
 water, store?, ammunition, &c., \vas estimated at. 1200 tons. She 
 then drew fifteen feet six inches forward, and fifteen feet ten inches 
 aft; immersion of paddle wheels five feet seven inches. 
 
 *******
 
 INFLEXIBLE TO NEW ZEALAND. 46.9 
 
 " She made St. Helena Bay, Cape Colony, on the 2?tli, and was 
 at anchor in SalJanha Bay and Table Bay, on the 28th September, 
 having accomplished the total run from Devonport in forty-nine' 
 days, of which thirty-two days was under steam, and seventeen 
 under sail only. From the point of divergence on the 08th August 
 to the '^th September, the distance run per log was 43o':i2 nautical 
 inil.->. nearly 1'nMt over the direct course. Her average speed 
 during this period was 140 nautical miles per diem. 
 "The time under steam, 134 days. 
 
 -. sail, IT| ., 
 "Average speed under steam, L'tS nautical miles. 
 
 sail, only 127^ 
 
 consumption of fuel per diem, when under steam, 1'2 
 
 toes cwt. 
 
 ' The public service required the Inflexible to remain six weeks 
 at the Cape Colony, and having discharged a portion "of her dead 
 weight, aud.taken on board 4UO tons of coal, she left Simon's Bay at 
 two p.m. of the 8th November, and arrived at Sydney -U half-past 
 eight p in. on the 13th December. 
 
 "The passage from the Cape was performed, therefore, in ''.'< 
 il.iv~ li hours, of which period 100 hours, equal to days 1G 
 hours, was under sail only, and the remaining '-28 days 14$ hours 
 under steam. During eight days of the passage the practice was to 
 disconnect each morning, and get up steam towards nightfall, and 
 on two days and nights the steamer proceeded under canvass. The 
 draught of water in Simon's Bay at starling was fourteen feet si* 
 inches forward, and sixteen feet aft the immersion of paddle wheels 
 five feet six inches. On arrival in Port Jackson she drew thirteen 
 feet, and had about five tons of coal remaining in the boxes. Her 
 average consumption, therefore, on the passage was 15 tons 17 
 cwt. daily while under steam. 
 
 " This passage of the Inflexible is memorable, inasmuch as it is 
 the first steam passage from the Cape to Sydney (from England to 
 the Cape, and thence to India, has been frequently done) ; and it is 
 the longest run at one stretch of any steamer under steam in the 
 annals of steam navigation." 
 
 The Inflexible passed through Bass's Straits, and 
 anchored in Sydney Harbour on the 13th of December, 
 1816. 
 
 " The speed per log given in the sketch of the voyage, is the 
 average speed during twenty-four hours. The aggregate of the 
 ihiily runs on the whole passage, from tin- t'ajir t.> s\ilin-\. . 
 knots per log, whereas the actual distance is i;r,u >, and ullowing for 
 extra latitude being made, the actual ground gone over could not be 
 less than 0700 nautical miles. 
 
 a s
 
 470 VOYAGE OF THE INFLEXIBLE. 
 
 " The average speed per log, per diem, was 181 l-8th 7 per 
 hour : 
 
 days. n. m. per diem, per hour. 
 
 "Of which under steam 25 4635 185 2-5 7| 
 
 Of which under sail only 2 344 172 
 
 Of which under part steam and part sail 8 1421 177 2-8 7 2-5 
 
 35 
 Total miles per log 6400 
 
 " Taking the actual distance gone over by the Inflexible at 6700 
 nautical miles, the average speed on the passage was 190 miles per 
 diem, or eight knots per hour, very nearly. 
 
 "During the passage, the wind came from a westerly direction 
 during 20 days ; an easterly direction 10 days ; and variable 5 days. 
 
 " The following is a brief summary of the whole voyage from 
 England : 
 
 N. Miles. 
 '' The distance from Plymouth Sound to Table Bay, rid 
 
 Madeira and Cape de Verde 6150 
 
 " The distance from Simon's Bay to Port Jackson 6600 
 
 " Total distance from England to Sydney, via Cape of 
 
 Good Hope 12,750 
 
 Nautical Miles traversed: 
 days, hours, per log. per day. per hour. 
 " Number of complete davs under 
 
 steam 57 4 10,115 177 7J 
 
 Bitto ditto under sail only 19 12 2.572J 132 5 
 Ditto ditto under part sail 8 1,421 177 7| 
 
 "Plymouth Sound to Port Jackson 84 16 14.108J 
 
 " Total coal consumed on the passage, 847 tons. Average con- 
 sumption per diem, 14 tons. Average number of miles for each ton 
 of coal, 13. Average consumption of fuel per horse power, per 
 hour, 84 Ibs. 
 
 ***** 
 
 " From the brief summary of the passage from the Cape to Sydney 
 already given, it will be observed, that although westerly winds pre- 
 vailed during 20 days, and were generally strong sometimes in- 
 creasing to a gale steam was not let off. The whole time of her 
 proceeding under sail was 2 days and part of 8 days. Strong south- 
 westerly winds, and a heavy sea from the same direction, are cha- 
 racteristic of this passage above 40 south latitude, at which parallel 
 of latitude the Inflexible ran 3000 miles. By keeping up steam 
 during the prevalence of these strong favourable winds, the paddle- 
 wheel steamer saves wear and tear, and steers steadier. The pos-
 
 REPORT ON NEW ZEALAND COAL. 471 
 
 sibilitv of taking full advantage of these winds by the application of 
 the screw principle, mid saving fuel, affords good grounds for sup- 
 posing that the expenditure of fuel, small as it is by the paddle-wheel 
 steamer, will be considerably reduced by the screw application, and 
 without diminishing the speed. The screw principle might also 
 beneficially be applied on the latter part of the passage from Eng- 
 land to the Cape, as large paddle-boxes catch head winds, and 
 thereby impede the progress of the steam vessel. 
 
 " Not the least of the many satisfactory results attending the 
 voyage of the Inflexible, is the excellent order in which she arrived, 
 and the entire absence of any wear and tear." 
 
 The following despatches relate to the quality of the 
 New Zealand coal, from Massacre Bay, hitherto tried : 
 
 FBOM GOVEBXOB OBEY TO EABL OBEY. 
 . " Government House, Auckland, March 29, 1847. 
 
 "MYLoBD, I have the honour to enclose a copy of a report 
 from Captain Hoseason, R.N., of her Majesty's steam sloop 
 Inflexible, upon the nature and quality of New Zealand coal, and 
 upon its fitness for the use of steam vessels. I am happy to state 
 that this report is of a very favourable nature; and there can, I 
 think, be no doubt that these Islands (coal being abundant in many 
 parts of them) will afford great facilities for the employment of 
 steam vessels in this part of the world, and that the expense of the 
 war steamer stationed here will shortly be materially lessened, from 
 the comparatively low prices at which coals ought now to he 
 supplied. I have, &c., 
 
 " The Right Hon. Earl Grey, &c. (Signed) " G. GBKY." 
 
 "H.M.S. Castor, Auckland, Xcic Zealand, March 27, 1847. 
 " SIB, In accordance with the wish conveyed in your Excel- 
 lency's letter of the vMth inst., I directed Commander Hoseason to 
 report on the nature and quality of New Zealand coal put on board 
 her Majesty's steam sloop Inflexible for trial, on that vessel's recent 
 visit to Nelson ; and I have now the honour to enclose a copy of 
 that officer's letter to me on the subject. I have, &c., 
 
 (Signed) "C. GBAHAM, 
 
 " Captain and Senior Naval Officer at New Zealand. 
 " His Excellency Governor Grey, &c." 
 
 " H.M.'s steam sloop 'Inflexible,' at Auckland, 
 
 " March '^7, 1847. 
 
 g IBi in compliance with your request contained in your 
 letter of the -lith instant, that 1 should report on the nature and 
 quality of the coal put on board her Maji-sty's steam sloop under
 
 472 REPORT ON NEW ZEALAND COAL. 
 
 my commaud (at the Colonial expense by Iris Excellency Governor 
 Grey), at Port Nelson, with a view to try its fitness for the use of 
 steam-vessels, I have the honour to inform you that I have taken 
 the opinion of Mr. Tucker, the first engineer, on the subject, and 
 have received a most favourable report on the same. 
 
 " I am enabled, moreover, to prove this by the duty done by the 
 coal ; for we find by a comparison with the best Newcastle (Aus- 
 tralia) coal, obtained at Sydney, the following to be the result : 
 
 " NEWCASTLE (AUSTRALIA) COAL. 14J revolutions on third 
 step of expansion 24 cwt. per hour. 
 
 " NELSON COAL. 15^ revolutions on third step of expansion, 
 25 cwt. per hour. 
 
 " Thus it will be seen that, from about equal quantities of fuel, 
 equal work has been obtained; but there is one peculiarity in the 
 Nelson coal, which is, being much slower in combustion than the 
 Newcastle coal, and therefore would not furnish steam for the 
 cylinders with equal rapidity to enable the vessel to go at her 
 greatest speed in smooth water ; but it is far more economical when 
 all weathers are considered ; this would make it highly advantageous 
 when mixed with Newcastle (Australia) coal, as the bad qualities 
 of both would be counteracted. 
 
 " Injustice, however, to the Nelson coal, I ought to observe that 
 it is mere surface coal, and not obtained from a pit like the coal of 
 Newcastle ; and has been for more than six months lying on the 
 open beach, where it was placed for the use of the Driver had she 
 touched at Nelson. 
 
 " As only thirty-three tons were received for trial (that beiug'all on 
 the spot), I am not able to make as full a report as I could wish. 
 Should you, therefore, be pleased to order a larger quantity to be 
 placed at the depot at Wellington (I would advise not less than 100 
 tons), obtained, if possible, from a little below the surface, and sub- 
 ject to rejection if, on inspection, it be deemed not equal to that 
 already received on board, I do not doubt but that I shall then be 
 able to make a full and satisfactory report. I have, &c., 
 
 (Signed) " J. C. HOSEASOX, Commander. 
 
 " Captain Graham, C.B., H.M.S. Castor, &c." 
 
 APPENDIX B. 
 
 THE following Documents relate to the Government 
 Revenue and Expenditure, &c. The Official Account 
 of that for Wellington separately, for the year 1847, 
 has not yet, it is believed, been published.
 
 
 
 
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 474 APPENDIX 13. 
 
 The following is an extract from a recent New Zea- 
 land Journal: 
 
 "CUSTOMS' REVENUE OF NORTHERN AND SOUTHERN 
 SETTLEMENTS. 
 
 1810. 1847. 
 
 s. d. s. d. 
 
 '"Auckland 11,155 ]() !) 17,070 1!) 1 
 
 Wellington 0,308 14= 10 15,551 3 2 
 
 Nelson 1,070 1 7 1,301 1 5 
 
 Russell 447 7 9 0201311 
 
 New Plymouth 212 17 103 10 10 
 
 Total ....19,2541111 35,073 8 5 
 
 " ' Tlie above figures show that there has been an increase in the 
 customs of 10,418/. 1.0s. Od., or nearly 100 per cent, accession of 
 duties, and consequent increase of trade during the year ending 5th 
 of January last.' 
 
 " The total increase thus gained in the whole Colony is not quite 
 so great as that above stated, being actually 80 per cent. But it is 
 worthy of remark, that the amount of increase exhibited by the 
 Southern Settlements, is very far above that rate, while that of the 
 Northern is proportionately below it. Arranging the above figures 
 in a somewhat different order, the results are : 
 
 1846. 1847. 
 
 s. d. s. d. 
 
 Auckland 11,155 10 9 17,970 19 1 
 
 Russell 447 V 9 020 13 11 
 
 11,002 18 18,597 33 
 
 Wellington 0,308 14 10 15,551 3 2 
 
 Nelson 1,070 1 7 1,301 1 5 
 
 New Plymouth 21217 1031010 
 
 7,051 13 5 17,075 15 5 
 
 " Thus the rate of increase for the Northern Settlements is a little 
 more than 60 per cent. ; and that for the Southern Settlements 123 
 per cent., notwithstanding the deficiency of New Plymouth. Next 
 year the colony of Otago will still further swell the revenue of the 
 Southern Settlements. 
 
 " The Auckland paper from which these returns are taken, makes 
 the following remarks upon them : 
 
 ' 'A comparative statement of the Customs' Revenue, collected nt
 
 APPENDIX B. 475 
 
 the several ports in New Zealand, during the years ended .">th of 
 .January, I^i7, and the same date iu 184*, is also published. The 
 total sum collected during the former period was ]0,x!.j4/. lls. lid.; 
 and during the latter, 30, (>?:)/. ss. "id., showing an increase for the 
 last year over the former of l(i,4(58/. 2s. 8d. The Auckland increase 
 i^ stated at G,8LV. 8s. 4d., while that of Wellington is put down at 
 \i,\*''!. 8s. 4d., but this is owing to the presence of a large naval 
 and military force which it was found necessary to maintain at Wel- 
 lington and Wanganui during the past year. The total sum col- 
 lected at Auckland, during the year 1847, amounts to 17,070/. 
 10s. Id.; at Wellington, during the same period, l- r i,d">H. Os. tJd.' 
 
 It must, however, be remembered, that the naval and military 
 force which had heretofore made its expenditure exclusively at 
 Auckland and Russell, lias been increased at those places to a still 
 greater degree than at Wellington. The regular military forces 
 quartered in New Zealand have been about equally divided between 
 the Northern and Southern districts : but the Pensioners, or New 
 Zealand Feucibles, with their wives and children, and their principal 
 and other commauding officers, have been entirely quartered in the 
 immediate neighbourhood of Auckland; and, moreover, tbe Com- 
 mauder-in-Chief, Major-General Pitt, with all his stall', also resides 
 at Auckland."
 
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 480 LIST OF PUBLICATIONS 
 
 APPENDIX D. 
 
 LIST OF PUBLICATIONS RELATIVE TO NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 (Those marked * are especially worthy of attention.) 
 
 *1770-80. Cook's Second and Third Voyages. 
 
 . 1807. Some Account of New Zealand, by John Savage, Surgeon. 
 
 *1817. Narrative of a Voyage to New Zealand, by J. L. Nicholas, 
 
 2 vols. Black. 
 1824. Journal of a Ten Months' Residence in New Zealand, by 
 
 Major Cruize. 
 
 *1830. The New Zealanders (Library of Entertaining Knowledge). 
 1832. Busby's Information on New Zealand and Australia. 
 1832. Narrative of Nine Months' Residence in New Zealand, by 
 
 Augustus Earl, draftsman to H. M. S. Beagle. 
 1835. Yate's Account of New Zealand. 
 1830. Ellis's Polynesian Researches. Fisher. 
 *1837. The British Colonization of New Zealand, published for the 
 
 New Zealand Association. 
 
 *1838. Official Documents relative to New Zealand, with Observa- 
 tions by Dr. Hinds. Parker. 
 
 1838. Polack's Residence in New Zealand, 2 vols. 
 
 1839. Emigration Fields, by Patrick Mathew. Longman. 
 *1839. New Zealand in 1839, or Four Letters to Lord Durham, by 
 
 John Duumore Lang, D.D. Smith, Elder, and Co. 
 1839. Ward's Information on New Zealand, and Supplementary 
 
 Volume. Parker. 
 1839. Alison's Speech on New Zealand, at Glasgow. Effingham 
 
 Wilson. 
 1839. Popular Account of New Zealand. Glasgow, Lnmsden. 
 
 1839. Walton's Twelve Months' Residence in New Zealand. 
 
 Glasgow, W. R. M'Phun. 
 
 18 W. Johnson's Plain Truths on the New Zealand and Australian 
 Settlements. Smith, Elder, and Co. 
 
 1840. Campbell's Present State, &c., of New Zealand. Smith, 
 
 Elder, and Co. 
 
 *1840 Rev. Montague Hawtrey's Address to New Zealand Colonists. 
 *1840. Bishop of London's Letter to the Archbishop of Canterbury, 
 
 on Colonial Bishoprics. 
 
 1841. Hodgskin's Eight Months in New Zealand. 
 
 1841. Letters from Emigrants, published by the New Zealand 
 
 Company. 
 
 1841. Carpenter's Relief for the Unemployed. Strange. 
 *1*41. Hon. H. W. Petre's Account of New Zealand. Smith, 
 
 Elder, and Co. 
 1841, Bright's Handbook for New Zealand Emigrants. Hooper.
 
 RELATIVE TO NEW ZEALAND. 481 
 
 Heaphy's New Zealand. Smith, Elder, and Co. 
 
 New Zealand, &c. (New Library of Useful Knowledge ) 
 
 <' nulock. 
 
 Chapman's New Zealand Portfolio. Smith, Elder, and Co. 
 1842. Bell and Young on New Zealand Flax. Smith, Elder, 
 
 and Co. 
 1*12. How to Colonize, hy Ross Donelly Mangles, Esq., M.P 
 
 Smith, Elder, and Co. 
 
 42. New Zealand, Nelson by Kappa. Smith, Elder, and Co. 
 
 142. Fox's Colonization of New Zealand. Smith, Elder, and Co. 
 
 1*12. Latest Information as to New Plymouth. Smith, Elder, 
 
 and Co. 
 1*12. Translation of Professor Ritter's Colonization of New 
 
 Zealand. Smith, Elder, and Co. 
 ]SJ->. New Zealand, hy Charles Perry, Esq. Boone. 
 1* 12. New Zealand, hy R. G. Jameson, Esq. 
 
 1842. Ward's Information on New Zealand, 4th Edition. Parker. 
 *1842. Bidwell's Rambles in New Zealand. 
 
 *1843. Speech of Charles Buller, Esq., M.P., on Systematic Colo- 
 nization. Murray. 
 *1843. Dieficnbach's Travels in New Zealand, 2 vols. Murray. 
 
 1843. Lieut. Wood's Pamphlet on New Zealand. Richardson. 
 1843. Jennings's New Zealand Colonization. Richardson. 
 
 1843. Letters from Settlers. Smith, Elder, and Co. 
 
 *1843. Letters from the Bishop of New Zealand, published by the 
 
 Society for the Propagation of the Gospel. Rivington. 
 *1844. New Zealand, Part I., published hy do. Rivington. 
 
 1844. Stokes's Letter to Lord Devon on the Wairoa Massacre. 
 
 Longman. 
 1844. Supplements to the " New Zealand Gazette" of the 20th 
 
 of August, 184:), and the "Nelson Examiner" of the tith 
 
 of January, 1844. 
 1844. The New Zealanders and their Lands, hy Dandeson Coates, 
 
 Esq. ilatc.hards. 
 I s i I. Christian Remembrancer, No. 40. Burns. 
 
 1844. Donlan's Letter to Absentee Landholders. Aird. 
 
 lS4. r >. Brown's New Zealand and its Aborigines. Smith, Elder, 
 
 and Co. 
 
 Is 15. Dr. Martin's New Zealand and its Affairs. Simmonds. 
 1M.~>. Scheme of the Free Church Colony at Otago. Glasgow. 
 
 1845. Marjoribanks's Travels in New Zealand. Smith, Elder, 
 
 and Co. 
 
 184r>. Brodie's I'ast .and Present State of New Zealand. \Vliittaker. 
 *18ir>. Edw. Jerningham Wakelield's Adventure in New Zealand, 
 
 2 vnls. Murray. 
 
 '1845. Views in New Zealand, illustrating the above. Smith, 
 Elder, and Co. 
 
 T T
 
 482 LIST OF PUBLICATIONS 
 
 1845. Letters from Wanganui. Churton. 
 
 1845. Lieut. Wood's New Zealand and its Claimants. Richardson. 
 
 1845. The New Zealand Company, its claim to Compensation con- 
 
 sidered. Seeley. 
 
 1845. The Colonies and the Colonial Government, by Colonel the 
 Hon. Sir Edward Cust. Hatchards. 
 
 *1845. Supplement to the "Spectator" newspaper, exclusively on 
 New Zealand. 4th January, 1845. 
 
 *1845. New Zealand, Part II., by the Society for the Propagation 
 of the Gospel. Eivington. 
 
 *1845. New Zealand, Part III., do. do. 
 
 *1845. Report of the Debate on the 15th, 17th, and 10th of June, 
 on New Zealand. With an Appendix, containing: 
 1. The Petition of the New Zealand Company; 2. The 
 Petition of the New Zealand Colonists ; 3. The Resolu- 
 tion of the Select Committee in 1844 ; 4. A List of the 
 Division on the New Zealand Debate. Murray. 285 pp. 
 
 1846. New Zealand, in the March Number of the " Westminster 
 
 Review." 
 
 1840. Brees's Pictorial Illustrations of New Zealand. 
 *1840. Angas's Illustrations of New Zealand. 
 1846. Angas's Savage Scenes in Australia and New Zealand. 
 3848. The Emigrant's Guide to New Zealand. Stewart and 
 
 Murray. 
 REPORTS AND PUBLICATIONS OF 
 
 The Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge ; 
 The Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign 
 
 Parts; 
 
 *The Church Missionary Society; 
 The Wesleyan Missionary Society ; 
 The London Missionary Society ; 
 The Aborigines Protection Society ; and 
 *The New Zealand Company, commencing in 1840. 
 *The New Zealand Journal, commencing in 184(1. 
 Knight's (Quarterly) Colonization Circular, commencing in 1841. 
 The New Zealand Government Gazette, commencing in 1841 . 
 The Minutes and Proceedings of the Legislative Council of the 
 
 Colony, commencing in 1841. 
 The Colonial Ordinances, commencing in 1841. 
 Rules and Orders touching the Practice of the Supreme Court of 
 New Zealand, 1844. 
 
 ACTS OF PARLIAMENT. 
 
 1828. 9 George IV., c. 83. An Act to provide for the Administra- 
 tion of Justice in New South Wales and Van Diemen's 
 Land, and for the more effectual Government thereof, iind 
 for other purposes relating thereto. [25th July, 1828.]
 
 RELATIVE TO NEW ZEALAND. 483 
 
 and 4 Victoria, c. Uvi. An Act to continue until Uie 31st 
 day of December, 1841, and to the end of the then next 
 Session of Parliament, and to extend the Provisions of an 
 Act to provide for the Administration of Justice in New 
 South Wales and Van Diemen's Land, and for the more 
 effectual Government thereof, and for other purposes 
 relating thereto. [7th August, 1840.] 
 
 184'2. 5 and 6 Victoria, c. 36. An Act for regulating the Sale of 
 Waste Land belonging to the Crown in the Australian 
 Colonies. [22nd June, 1842.] 
 
 1-1;!. o and 6 Victoria, c. 107. An Act for regulating the Carriage 
 of Passengers in Merchant Vessels. [12th August, 1842.] 
 
 1-1 i. (3 Victoria, c. 22. An Act to authorise the Legislatures of 
 certain of Her Majesty's Colonies to pass Laws for the 
 admission, in certain cases, of Unsworn Testimony in 
 Civil and Criminal Proceedings. [31st May, 1 
 
 1846. 9 and 10 Victoria, c. 42. An Act to authorize a Loan from 
 the Consolidated Fund to the New Zealand Company. 
 [3rd August, 1840.] 
 
 1846. 9 and 10 Victoria, c. 3^2. An Act to grant certain powers 
 to the New Zealand Company. [Ibth August, 1846.] 
 
 1846. 9 and 10 Victoria, c. 82. An Act to amend an Act of the 
 present Session for authorizing a Loan from the Conso- 
 lidated Fund to the New Zealand Company. [JiHh 
 August, 1846.] 
 
 1846. and 10 Victoria, c. 103. An Act to make further provision 
 
 for the Government of the New Zealand Islands. [28th 
 August, 1846.] 
 
 1847. 10 and 11 Victoria, c. 103. An Act to amend the Passen- 
 
 gers' Act, and to make further provision for the Carriage 
 of Passengers by Sea. [22nd July, 1847.] 
 
 1847. 10 and 11 Victoria, c. 112. An Act to promote Colonization 
 
 in New Zealand, and to authorize a Loan to the New 
 Zealand Company. [23rd July, 1 - 
 
 1848. 11 Victoria, c. 5. An Act to suspend for Fire Tears the 
 
 operation of certain parts of an Act of the tenth year of 
 her present Majesty, for making further provision for the 
 Government of the New Zealand Islands, and to make 
 other provision in lieu thereof. [7th March, 184.] 
 
 PARLIAMENTARY PAPERS. 
 
 1835. Correspondence respecting an Expedition for the Recorery 
 
 of British Subjects detained by the Natives. No. 
 
 1836. Report of Select Committee on the Disposal of Lauds in 
 
 British Colonies. H. G. Ward, Esq., in the Chair. 
 
 1st August, INK;. No :i-.'.
 
 484 
 
 LIST OF PUBLICATIONS 
 
 1836. Report of Select Committee on Aborigines. Sir T. F. Bux- 
 
 tou in the Chair. August, 1830. No. 538. 
 
 1837. Beport of Select Committee on Aborigines. Sir T. F. Bux- 
 
 ton in the Ghair. 2Gth June, 1837. No. 425. 
 
 1838. Beport of Select Committee of the House of Lords on the 
 
 State of the Islands of New Zealand. Earl of Devon in 
 the Chair. No. C80. 
 
 1838. Bill for the Provisional Government of British Settlements 
 
 in the Islands of New Zealand. Prepared and brought iu 
 by the Honourable Francis Baring and Sir George Sinclair. 
 1st June, 1838. 
 
 1839. Treasury Minute sanctioning an advance out of the Bevenues 
 
 of New South Wales for a Consul to New Zealand. No. 
 409. 
 
 1840. Commissions appointing T. F. Elliot and B. Torrens, Esqs., 
 
 and the Honourable Edward E. Villiers, Colonial Land 
 and Emigration Commissioners. No. 35. 
 
 1840. Vessels cleared out in 1838 and 1839. No. 197. 
 
 1840. Despatches from the Governor of New South Wales relative 
 to New Zealand. No. 5CO. 
 
 1840. Beport of Select Committee on the Petition of the Merchants 
 and Bankers of the City of London respecting the Coloni- 
 zation of New Zealand. Lord Eliot in the Chair. 3rd 
 August, 1840. No. 582. 
 
 1840. Beport of the Colonial Laud and Emigration Commissioners 
 since the commencement of the year 1840. No. 613. 
 
 1840. Correspondence relative to New Zealand from 1st December, 
 
 1838, to 18th March, 1840. [No. 238.] 
 
 1841. Correspondence relative to New Zealand from 9th February, 
 
 1840, to 3rd May, 1841. No. 311. 
 
 1842. Laws and Ordinances passed by the Governor and Council of 
 
 New Zealand, 4 and 5 Victoria, 1841. No. Cl. 
 1842. Bill for regulating the Survey and Sales of Land belonging 
 
 to the Crown in the Australian Colonies and New Zealand. 
 
 Prepared and brought in by Lord Stanley and Mr. G. W. 
 
 Hope. 22ud March, 1842. No. 124. 
 1842. Papers respecting the Debt due by the Government of New 
 
 Zealand to the Colony of New South Wales. No. 408. 
 1842. Estimated Bevenue and Expenditure of New Zealand for one 
 
 Year. No. 493. 
 
 1842. General Beport of the Colonial Land and Emigration Com- 
 missioners, 30th July, 1842. No. 507. 
 1842. Estimated Bevenue and Expenditure of New Zealand for one 
 
 Year, commencing 2nd May, 1841. No. 568. 
 1842. Correspondence relative to New Zealand from 18th May, 
 
 1841, to 5th August, 1842, together with a Return of 
 Government Land Sales. No. 569.
 
 RELATIVE TO NEW ZEALAND. 485 
 
 1842. Account of tlio Receipts and Expenditure of the Colony of 
 
 New Zealand from 2nd May to 31st December, 1841. 
 No. 583. 
 
 1843. Correspondence relative to the New Zealand Estimates. No. 
 
 134. 
 
 1*43. Bill to authorize Unsworn Testimony in the Colonies. No. 
 104. 
 
 . Correspondence relative to Emigration, and to the Sale of 
 Colonial Lands. No. 323. 
 
 1843. General Report of the Colonial Land and Emigration Com- 
 
 missioners. '23rd August, 1843. No. <;' I . 
 
 1844. Laws nnd Ordinances passed liy the Governor imd Council of 
 
 New Zealand, 5 Victoria, 1841-42. No. 61. 
 
 1844. General Report of the Colonial Laud and Emigration Com- 
 missioners. 2nd April, 1*14. No. 178. 
 
 1844. Return of Income and Expenditure of New Zealand for the 
 Years 1840-42; also, of Population, Ships, Customs, 
 Duties, and Charges of Collection, in 1841 and 1842 (in 
 continuation of No. 58:1, of Session 1842). No. : 
 
 1844. Report of Select Committee on New Zealand. Viscount 
 Howick in the Chair. 23rd July, 1844. No. 556. 
 
 1844. Abstract of Colonial Blue-Books for the Year 1842, and of 
 
 Military and Naval Expenditure for the Colonies in 1TI. 
 No. (i: B. 
 
 J844. Letter from the Secretary of the Church Missionary Society 
 to Lord Stanley relative to the Affairs of New Zealand. 
 No. (ill. 
 
 1845. Despatches from Lord Stanley to Governor Fitzroy, dated 
 
 respectively 13th and 17th August, 1844. No. 1. 
 1845. Return of the Date at which each Colony or Foreign Posses- 
 
 sion of the British Crown was captured, ceded, or settled ; 
 
 its Population, Government, Exports, Imports, and Vessels 
 
 entered and cleared in the Year 1842. No. I'-'. 
 l*4"i. Letters from Mr. Willoughby Shortland, late acting Governor 
 
 of New Zealand ; and from Mr. James Busbv, Inte British 
 
 Resident. No. ins. 
 184"). Correspondence respecting Debentures, Taxes, and the Sale 
 
 of Land by the Natives. No. 131. 
 1845. Fifth General Report of the Colonial Land and Emigration 
 
 Commissioners. 20th Mar.-h, l*i:>. No. [M7.] 
 1845. Correspondence n-lating to the Manakau New Zealand Com- 
 
 pany. No. 2 15. 
 1845. Return of all Claims for Land preferred before the Commis- 
 
 sioners of Land Claims in New Zealand, by <>r on behalf 
 
 of any persons who were, in 1 miries. CatoeliiM~. 
 
 or Schoolmasters of the Clmivli Mi -jnnaiy S,,.-!elv 
 
 X)f nil Claims for Land other thu those included in the 
 
 above. No. M0. 
 
 T T 2
 
 486 LIST OF PUBLICATIONS 
 
 1845. Despatches from the Governor of New Zealand from J8th 
 April to Kith September, 1844 (in continuation of No. 131 )- 
 No. 247. 
 
 1845. Account of Grants, Endowments, and Appropriations made 
 for the purpose of Religious Instruction or of Education in 
 the Colonies for the Yews 1840, 1841, and 1842. (No. 170.) 
 
 1845. Correspondence between Lord Stanley and the New Zealand 
 Company as to the establishment of a Proprietary Govern- 
 ment iu New Zealand. No. 357. 
 
 1845. Despatches from the Governor of New Zealand from the 16th 
 September to the 19th December, 1844 (in continuation of 
 No. 247). No. 300. 
 
 1845. Returns relating to Claims to Land in New Zealand, Pre- 
 emption of Land, &c. &c. No. 378. 
 
 J845. Correspondence between the Government and the New Zea- 
 land Company between the 19th June and the Oth July, 
 
 1844. No. 517. I. 
 
 1845. Correspondence relative to an Attack on the British Settle- 
 ment at the Bay of Islands by the Natives of New Zealand. 
 No. 517. II. 
 
 1845. Report of Select Committee on Colonial Accounts. Dr. 
 Bowring in the Chair. 17th July, 1845. No. 520. 
 
 1845. Return of Agents for the Colonies at present acting in Great 
 Britain, and recognised as such by the Colonial Office. 
 No. 623. 
 
 1845. Bill to amend an Act for regulating the Sale of Waste Lands 
 belonging to the Crown in the Australian Colonies, and to 
 make further provision for the management thereof. 
 Prepared and brought in by Mr. G. W. Hope and Mr. 
 Bingham Baring. 8th August, 1845. Nos. C05, 645. 
 
 1845. Correspondence relative to the original Constitution of the 
 Legislature of New Zealand. No. GCO. 
 
 1845. Letter from Lord Ingestre to Lord Stanley on the 24th July, 
 
 1845, and the Reply, relative to the Affairs of the New 
 Zealand Company. No. CGI. 
 
 1840. Sixth General Report of the Colonial Laud and 
 
 Emigration Commissioners. 30th April . . No. [TOO.] 
 
 1340. Bill to authorize New Zealand Loan .... No. 435. 
 
 1840. Bill to make further provision for New Zealand 
 
 Government No. 623. 
 
 1840. New Zealand Loan Act Amendment Bill . . . No. 024. 
 
 1840. Return respecting H. S. Chapman, Esq., (New 
 
 Zealand) No. 03. 
 
 1846. Papers respecting Laud Claims (with Plans) 
 
 New Zealand No. 203. 
 
 181( ! . Correspondence relative to a Loan in aid of New 
 
 Zealand No. 271.
 
 RELATIVE TO NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 'further Correspondence relative to New Zealand No. 337. 
 1*46. Further Papers relative to New Zealand (with a 
 
 Plan) ........... y ^.g 
 
 1846. Fanner Papers relative to New Zealand (with a 
 
 Plan) .............. Xo 69( , 
 
 1846. Correspondence respecting Mr. Halswell, New 
 
 1846. Correspondence with Lieutenant Governor Grrr, 
 
 New Zealand .......... ". No. [71,'.] 
 
 1M7. Seventh General Report of the Colonial Land and 
 
 Emigration Commissioners. 30h April . . No. [809.1 
 
 1847. Bill (No. 2.) to promote Colonization in New 
 
 Zealand ............. No. 
 
 47. Correspondence with Governor Grey . . . . No. r 7 - .:5.1 
 
 orrespondence with Governor Grey .... No. 
 
 ~3. Farther Papers relative to the Affairs of New 
 
 * Zealand ............ Xo. <m. 
 
 Correspondence with Governor Grey . . . No. 
 Farther Correspondence ........ No. [899.1 
 
 -?. BUI to suspend Act respecting New Zealand 
 
 Government ........... No. 31. 
 
 1848. Farther Papers relative to New Zealand, presented 
 
 by command, September, 1848, in continuation 
 of Papers presented January, Jane, and De- 
 cember, 1847, and February. 
 
 1848. Eighth General Report of the' Colonial Land and 
 Emigration Commissioners. 30th April. 
 
 Besides the works above enumerated, there hare frequently 
 appeared articles on New Zealand in SimmomJt't Colonial 3layttzinr, 
 the Colonial Gazette, The Times, Chronicle, and other morning 
 and evening papers. 
 
 Maps of New Zealand, and of many of the Harbours and Distiicrs 
 separately, have been published by WyM, of Cbaring-eross, Arrow- 
 smith, of Soho-square, and Smith,* Elder, and Co., Cornhill. Many 
 of Wyld's maps and charts are very inaccurate. Arrow smith's last 
 map is by far the most authentic and recent yet produced. The 
 publications of Smith and Elder, chiefly of separate districts in the 
 Southern Settlements, are published for the New Zealand Company, 
 from their official surreys.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 A. Page 
 
 ABORIGINES, 49, 51, 65, 70, 77, 
 
 82, 99, 100, 113, 120, 1/4, 187, 
 198, 202, 211, 222, 230, 238, 248, 
 263, 271, 285, 287, 296, 338, 342, 
 
 350, 354, 357, 376, 387, 3Q7, 401 
 
 Accounts of New Zealand Com- 
 pany 411 
 
 Acts of Parliament, List of, re- 
 lating to New Zealand . . . 482 
 
 Admiralty Bay 223 
 
 Aglionby, Village of 103 
 
 Valley 237 
 
 Agreement between Government 
 
 and Company, 18 JO .... 68 
 Agreement qualified, by Lord 
 
 Stanley, 1843 75 
 
 Agreement with Lord Grey, 1847 
 
 82, 416 
 
 Agricultural Instruments, &c. . 447 
 Returns, 190, 264, 288, 379 
 
 Agricultural Society 247 
 
 Akaroa Harbour 334 
 
 Albatross 165 
 
 Almanack, Cook's Strait . . . 202 
 Alps, Southern . . . .41,214,293 
 Animals, Indigenous . . . 153, 247 
 Introduced . 165, 247, 280 
 Anise-plant .... 148, 246, 304 
 Anniversary Festival .... 202 
 
 Ants 170 
 
 Aorere Valley and District . . . 219 
 Aotea Harbour ...... 352 
 
 Apteryx, or Kiwi 162 
 
 Arapawa Island 226 
 
 Arthur, Lake 237 
 
 Association, Canterbury . . 1, 86 
 List of Members . . 3 
 Preliminary Arrange- 
 ments 8 
 
 Association, Sketch of Plan . . 4 
 Association, New Zealand, of 1837 59 
 Association of Lay Members of 
 Free Church of Scotland . 81, 314 
 
 Astrolabe Roads 222 
 
 Auckland, Foundation of ... 66 
 District described . . 339 
 Harbour described . . 344 
 
 Page 
 
 Auckland Town described . . . 345 
 Awaroa River and Valley . . . 385 
 
 B. 
 
 Banks Ifl8, 271, 382 
 
 Banks's Peninsula 327 
 
 Baring's Bill, 1833 62 
 
 Barley 151, 246 
 
 Baron de Thierry 53, 57 
 
 Barrier Island 346 
 
 Barristers and Solicitors, 201, 272, 290 
 
 Bay of Islands 396 
 
 Plenty 357 
 
 Beans 152 
 
 Beer 182, 246 
 
 Bees 171, 251, 280 
 
 Birds, for exportation .... 449 
 
 indigenous 161 
 
 introduced 166 
 
 Bishop, appointment of . . . .70 
 
 Blind Bay 215, 219 
 
 Blow-fly 171 
 
 Blueskins 309 
 
 Bluff Harbour 307, 310 
 
 Boats 155,448 
 
 Bold Head 238 
 
 Books, &c., for a Colonist . 438, 457 
 List of, relating to 
 
 New Zealand 480 
 
 Boundary between Provinces . . 86 
 British Government first esta- 
 blished 64 
 
 British Resident, 1831 .... 56 
 
 Brothers Rocks 93, 231 
 
 Buildings 191, 204 
 
 Building-stone, (see Stone") 
 
 Buller, Mr. Charles . . . . 32, 78 
 
 River 236 
 
 Burnham Water 107 
 
 C. 
 
 Capabilities of New Zealand . . 27 
 
 Cape Campbell 234 
 
 Foulwind 236 
 
 Carriage, &c., for exportation . 444 
 Cask-staves, timber lor .... 246 

 
 INDEX. 
 
 Caterpillar, j-^ 
 
 cats ; 167 
 
 C * t0e 169,309.444 
 
 _ Wild 128,169 
 
 Cemeteries 
 
 Centipedes . ' 170 
 
 Churches, 95, 96, 103, 110, 186; 
 
 211,864,275,377 
 Civil Suits igg 
 
 Climate, 4*6, 129, 212. 24o', 980,* 
 t 311,355, 363, 4*9 
 
 Clothes, for Voyage, &c. . 422, 443 
 
 Cloudy Bay S31 
 
 Clutha ;or Molyneux} River and 
 
 Plains ..*.... 306 
 
 Coal, 37, 213, 217, 220, 235, 251, 
 
 266. 282, 312, 471 
 
 College, St. John's, Auckland . 3;; 
 Colonists, etpbarkation of first . 64 
 Colonists' Room at New Zea'and 
 
 House 423 
 
 Colonizing, Old English spirit of 96 
 Committee, House of Commons. 
 
 1844 75,77 
 
 Company, New Zealand. 10, 19, 
 
 08. S7, 97, 100, 103, 106, ill, 
 
 175, 210, 251, 274, 284, 291, 297. 
 303, 314, 334, 341, 407, 452, 456. 459 
 Company, New Zealand Land, of 
 
 1839 62 
 
 Company, New Zealand, of 1835, 53,347 
 Constitution, proposed for New 
 
 Zealand . . . . SO, 81,85,426 
 Controversies between Govern- 
 ment and Company . . 70, 409 
 Cook, Captain . . . . 35, 51, 226 i 
 Cook's Strait, narrow part of, 93, 231 
 Cororaandel Harbour . . . .341 
 Cost of clearing Land, 177, 258, 
 
 ---. -7; 
 Cost of exporting Cattle, Ac. . . 444 
 
 Cricket Club 208,271 
 
 Crime 188,264 
 
 Croisilles Harbour 223 
 
 Crown Grants to New Zealand 
 
 Company 63, 297, 41S 
 
 Customs' Duties 191 
 
 Debate of 1845 in House of 
 
 Commons 7S 
 
 Deer, for exportation 950, 305. 449 
 
 De Thierry, Baron 53, 57 
 
 Directory, Auckland 382 
 
 Diocese of New Zealand 378 
 Military and Naval . . 907 
 
 Nelson 272 
 
 New Plymouth . . .290 
 Wellington 905 
 
 ! .>.. 
 
 Distances from Wellington to 
 
 various places 35 
 
 Dogs 166,445 
 
 Dw*s 166 
 
 r^JiM I64 
 
 Dunedin , 
 
 D'Urrille Island .....IS 
 Dusky and Chalky Bays ... 308 
 Dye-woods 142. 143, 366 
 
 E. 
 
 Earthquakes ~ 43, 136 
 
 East Bay 226 
 
 East Coast of Middle Island . . 336 
 Eastern entrance of Queen Char- 
 lotte Sound 230 
 
 Education .. . is*, 263.988, 325 
 necessary for Onhaihts 436 
 
 Eel* 161 
 
 Elliott, Fort in 
 
 Entry Island 127 
 
 Eponi, the Chief 101 
 
 Exchange 9*0 
 
 Exports, probable 189 
 
 Extent of New Zealand .... 34 
 Eyre, Lien tenant-Governor . . 85 
 
 f. 
 Face of the Country, 45, 87, 94, 
 
 138, 308, 214, 219. *<S, 273, 993. 
 
 326,341,383 
 
 Fees in the Nature of Taxes . . 194 
 Fencibles, Royal New Zealand . 376 
 
 Ferry 119 
 
 Fire-arms, tec., for exportation, 
 
 194, 446 
 First Party of Otago Colonists .329 
 
 Ftabes 160 
 
 Fitzroy, Governor, (tee Geeermer.) 
 Flax, European 281 
 
 indigenous, or fktrmimm 
 tern** .... 145, 225, 280 
 
 Fowls 166 
 
 Free Church of Scotland Colony . 291 
 Freemasons' Lodge . . . 200, 207 
 
 Free Passages 419 
 
 I r c r K* .1 \ ' it. - - . _ _ \ 
 
 Penal Settlement projected 67 
 
 Fruit-trees introduced . . . .152 
 
 Furniture for exportation . . . 446 
 
 woods, indigenous, 140, 145 
 
 G. 
 
 Game, for exportation .... 449 
 
 Gardening Calendar 131 
 
 Garrison .... 207. 213, 376, 398 
 
 Geese 166 
 
 Gladstone. Mr., suggestions made 
 
 by the N. Z. Company to . . 79 
 Gkndavar Farm 107
 
 490 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Page 
 
 Goats 1/0 
 
 Gorge of the Hutt 105 
 
 Manawatu . 88, 1'20 
 Government Finance, 195, 26s, 
 
 289, 380, 4/2 
 
 Governor Fitzroy, 32, 75, 78, 81, 
 
 115, 285,291, 367 
 
 Governor Grey, 22, 79, 80, 256, 
 
 286, 291, 294, 382, 457, 471 
 
 Governor Hobson, 64, 75, 295, 334, 339 
 
 Granite 235, 282 
 
 Grain 150, 281 
 
 Grasses 151 
 
 Grasshopper 170 
 
 Green Jade 313 
 
 Grey and Greenstone Rivers . . 238 
 Grey, Governor, (see Governor.") 
 
 Guard Island 223 
 
 Guinea-fowl 166 
 
 H. 
 
 Happy Valley, Nelson . . . .221 
 Wellington ... 108 
 Harbour District, Wellington . .107 
 Harbours, excellence and abun- 
 dance of 45 
 
 Hauraki, Gulf of 341 
 
 Hauriri Harbour and Plains . . 89 
 
 Hawks 164 
 
 Hawtrey Bay 107 
 
 Height of Mountains .... 41 
 
 Herongate Farm 102 
 
 Hints for the passage and on 
 
 arrival 458 
 
 Hints on preparation for intend- 
 ing Colonists 436 
 
 Hobson, Governor (see Governor) 
 
 Hogs, wild 167, 312 
 
 Hokianga Harbour . . . . 392 
 
 Honey 173 
 
 Hongi, the Chief 53, 54 
 
 Hops 152,246 
 
 Hoputai Bay, or Port Chal- 
 mers 301, 303 
 
 Horokiwi district 112 
 
 Horowenua district and lake . 1 17 
 
 Horses 167, 445 
 
 Horticultural Society . . 201, 247 
 
 Hospital 206 
 
 Hotels .... 95, 96, 200, 201, 271 
 
 House 445, 463 
 
 Howick, Lake 237 
 
 Huatoki and Henui Rivers . . . 275 
 
 II utt, valley of the 100 
 
 Lower . . .101 
 Upper . . .105 
 
 I. 
 
 Imports and Exports, 192, 266, 
 
 288, 380, 398, 4/3 
 
 Page 
 
 Independence proclaimed, 1835 . 57 
 Inflexible, H.M. Steam-sloop, 217, 465 
 Influence of Climate on Soil . . 139 
 
 Insects, indigenous 170 
 
 Iron 2/7, 281 
 
 Ironmongery ....... 446 
 
 J. 
 
 Jacob's River 307, 310 
 
 Johnsonville, village of . . . .110 
 
 K. 
 
 Kaikoura District . . . 127, 214, 
 Mountains . . . 41, 
 or Lookers-on Inlet 
 
 Kaipara Harbour 
 
 Kaipara-te-ao River and Plains . 
 
 Kaitaia 
 
 Kaituna Pass 224, 
 
 Kaiwara-wara stream and village 
 
 Kapiti Island , 
 
 Karon district and road .... 
 village 
 
 Kauri timber 342, 
 
 Kawia Harbour 
 
 Kenepuru District 
 
 Kerikeri River 
 
 Kororarika 
 
 L. 
 
 Lakes, 42, 88, 107, 117, 121,210, 
 
 236, 2Q5, 293, 305, 313, 332, 337, 
 
 355, 
 
 Lambton Harbour 
 
 Lampreys 
 
 Land, distribution of, 175, 209, 
 251, 283, 367, 
 
 price and rent of . . 176, 
 purchase of . . . . 315, 
 
 sold at Otago 
 
 Land-orders and Laud, how to 
 
 buy 456, 
 
 Land-sharking ... 54, 63, 71 
 
 Law-courts 201, 
 
 Legislation 69, 77, 
 
 Library 198, 271, 
 
 Lime 
 
 Limestone 220, 
 
 List of Books relative to New 
 
 Zealand 
 
 Live Stock 191, 261, 
 
 Lizards 
 
 Locust 
 
 Lookers-on, or Kaikoura Inlet . 
 
 Lowry Bay 
 
 District . 
 
 235 
 214 
 328 
 398 
 234 
 386 
 233 
 99 
 127 
 97 
 98 
 365 
 352 
 111 
 395 
 397 
 
 394 
 93 
 161 
 
 457 
 374 
 419 
 325 
 
 459 
 , 81 
 270 
 
 123 
 323 
 175 
 251 
 
 480 
 288 
 153 
 170 
 326 
 106 
 120 
 
 M. 
 
 Maize . , 149 
 
 Makara District 108
 
 INDEX. 
 
 491 
 
 Page 
 
 Mana, or Table Island . . . .128 
 Manawatn River and District . .116 
 
 Manganese 36" 
 
 Mangold-wurzel .... 152, 381 
 
 Mangonui Harbour 390 
 
 Manufactories 191, 265 
 
 Manukao Harbour 348 
 
 Maps relating to New Zealand . 487 
 
 Marble 396 
 
 Marsden, Rev. Samuel .... 5? 
 
 Massacre Bay 219 
 
 Mathematical Instruments . , . 449 
 Maunga-Tautari Hills .... 354 
 Mechanics' Institute . . . 198, 2;i 
 
 Melons 150 
 
 Melville Cove 2'2:, 
 
 Mercury Bay 357, 362 
 
 Meteorological Tables, 134, 242, 
 
 311, 363, 404 
 
 Milford Haven 308 
 
 Mills, 95, 99*, 103, 110, 115, 119, 
 
 265, 289 
 
 Milton Bay 229 
 
 Minerals . . 33, 44, 174, 281, 346, 367 
 
 Missions and Missionaries, 49,52, 
 
 57, 60, 65, 70, 95, 114, 212, 278, 
 
 280, 292, 309, 342, 350, 351, 352, 
 
 353, 354, 358, 359, 360. 362, 387, 
 
 388,390, 392, 393, 394, 395, 401 
 
 Moerangi 308 
 
 Molyneux (see Cluthi) 
 
 Mokau River 280 
 
 Money, how to export .... 452 
 
 Mosquitoes 1/1 
 
 Motueka river and district . . . 231 
 Motupiko river and district . . 221 
 
 Motupipi 220 
 
 Mount Albert 9*. 103 
 
 Carmel 384 
 
 Cook 95 
 
 Edgcumbe 41 
 
 Egmont 41,273 
 
 Victoria 108 
 
 Mountains, Ruahine 88 
 
 Tararua 88 
 
 Volcanic 41 
 
 Moutere river and district . . .221 
 
 Mungaroa Valley 105 
 
 Music 441, 449 
 
 X. 
 
 Nanto-Bordelaise Company . . 334 
 
 Neck Harbour 310 
 
 Nelson, Foundation of .... 69 
 l>Utiict described . . . 214 
 
 Haven 215 
 
 Town of 270 
 
 New Plymouth, district of ... 274 
 
 Town of ... 2/5 
 
 River 307 
 
 Page 
 
 Newry farm 103 
 
 Newspapers 202,271,382 
 
 Newton, or Waitohe Bay . . . 227 
 
 Ngahauranga stream 99 
 
 Nickel 288 
 
 Northern extremity of North Island 
 
 383 
 O. 
 
 Oats iso 
 
 Odd Fellows' Lodge . . . 201,207 
 Official Report on New Zealand 
 
 Coal 471 
 
 Ohariu District 109 
 
 Ohau River and District . . .118 
 
 Ohiro District 108 
 
 Omnibus 20* 
 
 Opinions as to the capabilities of 
 
 New Zealand 87 
 
 Ordinances of Legislative Council 428 
 Otago District described . . . 293 
 Harbour described . . . 300 
 Terms of purchase of land 
 
 at 315 
 
 Otaki River and District . . .115 
 
 Owls 164 
 
 Oysters 161,247,362 
 
 P. 
 
 Fakiritalii Valley 106 
 
 Parliamentary Papers relative to 
 New Zealand, Last of .... 483 
 
 Parramatta Point Ill 
 
 Parrots 163 
 
 Passage,particularsrespecting,419,458 
 
 Patea River 274 
 
 Peafowl 166 
 
 Pelorus Sound 2->4 
 
 Petre, Town of 210 
 
 Pheasants 166 
 
 Phormiura tenax . . . 145, 225, 280 
 
 Piako River 360 
 
 Pigeon Bay 333 
 
 Pigeons 163 
 
 Pigs 167 
 
 Pilots 93, 304 
 
 Pipe-clay 251 
 
 Pitoue road 98 
 
 village 100 
 
 Plants and Seeds for exportation 449 
 
 Ploughing-match 247 
 
 Population, 183, 211, 212, 262, 
 
 287, 309, 325, 334, 337, 338, 376. 
 
 397, 473 
 
 Porirua district 112 
 
 harbour 1 1 1 
 
 road 110 
 
 Port Ashley 328 
 
 Chalmers 301,303 
 
 Cooper 328 
 
 Gore 82J
 
 492 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Page 
 Port Hardy ........ 223 
 
 Nicholson 90 
 
 Somes 310 
 
 Underwood 231 
 
 Position of New Zealand ... 35 
 Postal Arrangements .... 203 
 
 Potatoes 149 
 
 Price and Rent of land . . 176, 258 
 Prices Current . . 179,261,287,375 
 Productions, Natural, 140, 212, 
 
 246, 280, 312, 365 
 
 Provinces, boundary between the 86 
 Pukerua, village of 113 
 
 Q. 
 
 Quail 164, 312 
 
 Queen Charlotte Sound . . . .226 
 
 R. 
 
 Races 113, 1 15 
 
 Rangitikei River 208 
 
 Rangitoto Hills .... 280, 353 
 
 Rats ,167 
 
 Rauparaha, the Chief. . . . "4, 83 
 
 Religion - . . 186 
 
 Resemblance of New Zealand to 
 
 British Isles 44 
 
 Resemblance of New Zealand to 
 
 Italy 43 
 
 Resident, British, 1831 . . . . 56 
 Revenue and Expenditure, Go- 
 vernment, 195, 268, 288, 374, 
 
 380, 472 
 
 Richmond, Fort 103 
 
 Roads, 97, 98, 99, 100, 106, 110, 
 
 245, 275, 278, 388 
 
 Rocky Point 235 
 
 Ruahine Mountains 88 
 
 Ruapehu Mountain 41 
 
 Russell 397 
 
 S. 
 
 Saddlery, &c., for exportation . 443 
 Sailing Directions, Astrolabe 
 
 Roads 222 
 
 Sailing Directions, Auckland Har- 
 bour 344 
 
 Sailing Directions, Manawatu 
 
 River 118 
 
 Sailing Directions, Nelson Haven 218 
 Sailing Directions, New Plymouth 
 
 Roads 276 
 
 Sailing Directions, Otago Har- 
 bour 303 
 
 Sailing Directions, Port Hardy . 223 
 Sailing Directions, Port Nicholson 90 
 Sailing Directions, Wanganui 
 
 River 209 
 
 Salubrity of Climate 49 
 
 Sand-fly 171 
 
 Page 
 
 Sandy Bay 383 
 
 Seals . . . 160 
 
 Season for Whale-Fishery . . .154 
 
 Seasons 46, 130 
 
 Seeds and Plants to be exported . 449 
 
 Shakspeare Bay 226 
 
 Sheep 170 
 
 Sheep-farming .... 122, 248, 444 
 
 Ship Cove 226 
 
 Shipping . . 192, 268, 380, 398, 473 
 Shipping despatched by New Zea- 
 land Company 476 
 
 Signals at Port Nicholson ... 94 
 Singing-birds 165 
 
 Soil. . . . 138,210,245,280,365 
 
 Solicitors and Barristers 201, 272, 290 
 South Wanganui Harbour . . . 235 
 
 Spider 170 
 
 Statistics, 126, 183,211,262,287, 
 
 325, 376, 397, 473, 476 
 Steam Communication between 
 
 England and New Zealand . 36, 465 
 Steam Docks, facilities for . . .217 
 
 Stewart's Island 310 
 
 Stone, Building. . 1/4, 282, 345, 396 
 Sugarloaf Islands and Point, 273, 277 
 
 Sulphur 359, 367 
 
 Summary of Information con- 
 tained i 
 
 Summary, Historical 50 
 
 Summary of available laud in 
 Nelson District 239 
 
 T. 
 
 Table Island 128 
 
 Taieri plain 305 
 
 Takaka Valley and District. . . 220 
 Tamaki Inlet and District . . . 345 
 Taranaki, or New Plymouth Dis . 
 
 trict 273 
 
 Tararua Mountains 88 
 
 Taupo Lake 42 
 
 Tauranga Harbour 358 
 
 Te-awa-iti Village 230 
 
 Terawiti, Cape 109 
 
 Tettcott Farm 107 
 
 Thames, Frith, River and Valley 
 
 of the 341,359 
 
 Tide in Cook's Strait 231 
 
 Timber, for Cask-staves .... 246 
 
 Indigenous 140 
 
 Introduced 152 
 
 Tin 367 
 
 Tobacco 153 
 
 Tokomairiro Plain 305 
 
 Tonga Riro Mountain .... 41 
 
 Tory Channel 226 
 
 Town District, Wellington . . .108 
 
 of Wellington 94 
 
 Treaty of Waitangi C6
 
 INDEX. 
 
 493 
 
 Page 
 
 Turakina River 208 
 
 Turkeys 166 
 
 Turnips 152, 2S1 
 
 U. 
 
 Union Bank of Australia, 1Q8, 271, 452 
 
 V. 
 
 Vegetable Productions, 
 
 indigenous, 140, 246, 365 
 
 introduced . . 149, 246 
 
 Vessels registered .... 192, 266 
 
 Victoria Haven, Massacre Bay . 222 
 
 Vine 131, 246, 248 
 
 Volcanic action, traces of . . .42 
 Voyage, length of .... 36, 465 
 
 W. 
 
 Wade's Town 98 
 
 Wages .... 181,262,287,375 
 
 Wai-a-tc-ruati River 337 
 
 Waiho River, &c. (see Thames}. 
 Waikanae River and District . .114 
 Wnikato River and District, 350, 356 
 
 Waikouaiti Village 309 
 
 \\aiinate, Bay of Islands . . . 394 
 
 Cook's Strait .... 278 
 
 Wairoea, River and Plain . . .221 
 
 Waingaroa Harbour 351 
 
 \Vai-nui-o-mata District .... 120 
 
 \Vaiongona River 278 
 
 \Vaiora Lake, Banks's Peninsula . 337 
 
 Otago 305 
 
 VVaipa River and Plains .... 353 
 
 WHirarapa, plain or valley of, 88, 121 
 
 road 106 
 
 Page 
 Wairau, Massacre of . . 74, 115, 235 
 
 Plain '23 1 
 
 River 232 
 
 Wairoa River 398 
 
 Waitangi River, Bay of Islands . 395 
 
 Middle Island. . 338 
 
 Waitemata, or Auckland Harbour 344 
 
 Waitera River 278 
 
 Waitohe, or Newton Bay . . . 227 
 
 Pass 228, 233 
 
 Waitotara and Wenuakura Rivers, 279 
 
 Waiwakaio River 275 
 
 Waiwetu River 102, 104 
 
 Wakapuaka District 221 
 
 Wanpaihu River 208 
 
 Wanganui River and District . . 209 
 South 235 
 
 Wangaroa Harbour 391 
 
 Wars, Native 55 
 
 Water-power, 44, 99, 100, 113, 
 
 116, 117, 128, 289, 359, 395 
 
 Watt's Peninsula 107 
 
 Wellington, District of .... 87 
 
 Town of 94 
 
 Whaling, stations, 55, 128, 154, 
 
 193, 230, 276, 308, 337 
 
 Whales 153 
 
 What Intending Colonists should 
 
 buy 443 
 
 What Intending Colonists should 
 
 learn 436 
 
 Wheat 150 
 
 White Bluff 234 
 
 Island .... 42, 357, 359 
 
 Wild Cattle 128, 169, 225 
 
 Ducks 164, 225 
 
 Hogs l(>7 
 
 Windmills 95,103 
 
 Winds, strong 48 
 
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