UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA AT LOS ANGELES OUR ARTIST IN CUBA, PERU, SPAIN AND ALGIERS. LEAVES FROM THE SKETCH-BOOK OF A TRAVELLER. 18641868. GEORGE W. CARLETOX. " Let observation! with expansive view. Survey mankind, from China to Peru." NEW YORK: Copyright, 1877, by G. W. Carleton & Co., Publishers. LONDON : S. Low & Co. MDCCCI.XXVII. OUR ARTIST, HIS MARK. CONTENTS. CUBA, - PAGE 5 PERU, 57 SPAIN, - - 109 ALGIERS, I3 1 r AN APOLOGY. O^HE Author of these unpretending little Ap wayside sketches offers them to the Public with the hesitating diffidence of an Amateur. The publication a few years ago, of a portion of the drawings was attend- j ed with so flattering a reception, that a new i edition being called for, it is believed a few more Leaves from the same vagabond sketch- * book may not be intrusive. H The out-of-the-way sort of places in which the Author's steps have led him, must always present the most enticing subjects for a comic pencil ; and although no attempt is here made to much more than hint at the oranges and volantes of Cuba, the earth- 3 338482 quakes and buzzards of Peru, the donkeys and beggars of Spain, or the Arabs and dates of Algiers, yet sketches made upon the spot, with the crispy freshness of a first im- pression, cannot fail in suggesting at least a panoramic picture of such grotesque inci- dents as these strange Countries furnish. The drawings are merely the chance re- sults of leisure moments; and Our Artist, in essaying to convey a ray of information through the glasses of humor, has simply multiplied with printers' ink his pocket-book of sketches, which, although caricatures, are exaggerations of actual events, jotted down on the impulse of the moment, for the same sort of idle pastime as may possibly lead the reader to linger along its ephemeral pages. NEW YORK, Christmas, 1877. PART I. C U BA. CUBAN SKETCHES. SICK TRANSIT. Two BOOBIES. A COLORED HERCULES. THE CUBAN JEHU. IGLESIA SAN FRANCISCO. A CUBAN MOTIVE. AN INFLUENZA. FLEE FOR SHELTER. THE RIDE. A COCK-FIGHT. RATHER COOL. TAKE YOUR PICK. A SPANISH RETREAT. SPIDERS AND RATS. BELLIGERENTS. MATERFAMILIAS. CULINARY DEPARTMENT. A BUNDLE OF CLOTHES. A BUTTON- SMASHER. WHITE PANTALOONS. CARNIVAL ACQUAINTANCE. BEAUTY AT THE BALL. A DISAPPOINTMENT. DOLCE FAR NIENTE. LOCOMOTION. THE SPANISH TONGUE. AN UNWELCOME VISITOR. AN AGREEABLE BATH. A CELESTIAL MAID. A STATUE ON A BUST. A TAIL UNFOLDED. MONEY IN THY PURSE. SUGAR AND WATER. GREEN FIELDS. A SEGAR WELL-LIGHTED. SHALL REST BE FOUND. ALL ABOARD. THE MATANZAS CAVE. HARD ROAD TO TRAVEL. A SHADY RETREAT. A SPANISH GROCER. COLORED HELP. VERY MOORISH. CHACUN A SON GOUT. NATURE'S^RESTORER. AGRICULTURAL. A COT IN THE VALLEY. A COLORED BEAUTY. CORNER STONES. A SUDDEN DEPARTURE. THE START. THE STEAMSHIP COLUMBIA. AT SEA. First day out. The wind freshens up a trifle as we get outside Sandy Hook; but our artist says he is'nt sea-sick, for he never felt better in his life. IN THE GULF OF MEXICO. A " Booby "as seen from the ship's deck. A "Booby" as seen on the ship's deck. VIEW FROM OUR WINDOW AT THE HOTEL ALMY. The old Convent and Bell Tower of the Church of San Francisco, now used as a Custom House. AT THE CAFE LOUVRE. Manners and Customs of a Cuban with a Cold in his Head. THE [WICKED] FLEA OF HAVANA PART I. The beast in a torpid conditio i. PART II. When he "smells the blood of an Englishman." A COCK-FIGHT IN CUBA. I. Chanticleer as he goes in. II. Chanticleer considerably " played out.' 16 THE CAPTAIN GENERAL'S QUINTA. View of the Canal and Cocoa Tree ; looking East from the Grotto. AN INTERIOR IN HAVANA. Kitchen, chief-cook and bottle-washer in the stablishment of Mrs. Franke, out on the ' Cerro." 23 HEADS OF THE PEOPLE. A portrait of the young lady, whose family (after con- siderable urging) consents to take in our washing. el = H A MASK BALL AT THE TACON. Our artist mixes in the giddy dance, and falls desperately in love with this sweet creature but LATER IN THE EVENING, When the "sweet creature" unmasks, our Artist suddenly recovers from his fit of admiration. Alas ! beauty is but mask deep. 39 n > II 5 3 i i' 34 HOTELS IN HAVANA. A cheerful Chinese Chambermaid (?) at the Fonda de Ingleterra, outside the walls. HIGH ART IN HAVANA. A gay (but slightly mutilated) old plaster-of- Paris girl, that I found in one of the avenues of the Bishop's Garden, on the " Cerro." o 8 3. Irs- r s w C V) C c PUBLIC SERVANTS IN CUBA. A gay and festive Chinese brakeman, on the railroad near Guines. The shirt-collar-and-pair- of-spurs style of costume. 8 g: 3 rt 8 3 3 5' - '- 3 3 ^ S ^ 2 H ffi 'M t) 3 B O B ~ > K PLANTATIONS NEAR MAR IAN AO. A Colored Beauty toting Sugar Cane from the field to the grinding mill. ARCHITECTURE IN HAVANA. A conglomerate Esguina, on the comer of Calle Obispo and Monserate. *> II PART II. PERU 57 PERUVIAN SKETCHES. FRIENDLY COUNSELS. A DISAGREEABLE BERTH. A COLORED RECEPTION. THE NAKED TRUTH. A PANAMA LAUNDRESS. A MAN FOR A* HAT. DOMESTIC BLISS. A BIT or A CHURCH. HOT WEATHER. WHAT AN Ass ! A HAPPY FAMILY. LAND AT LAST. CALLAO CATHEDRAL. A BAGGAGE TRAIN. CATHEDRAL AT LIMA. A WATER-CARRIER. A BAG OK CUFFEY. BIRDS OF A FEATHER. A CHINA BOWL OF SOUP. THING OF BEAUTY. FONDEST HOPES DECAY. RAT-IFICATION MEETING. A BACK SEAT. AN EXCELLENT VlEW. BREAD-BASKETS. GOOD FOR DIGESTION. AN EYE FOR AN EYE. WHO KNOWS? (NOSE). DISCRETION IN VALOR. BLACK WARRIORS. Music HATH CHARMS. A CHARIOT RACE. AN ANTIQUE. FAMILY ARRANGEMENT. HEADS OF THE PEOPLE. BY THEIR FRUITS. A BEAST OF BURDEN. A NIGHT ADVENTURE. A RUNAWAY. THE LIGHT FANTASTIC. A ROOSTER. A CHIME OF BELLS. DOG-DAYS. PORK BUSINESS. WHEN SHALL WE THREE. UNHAND ME ! NOTHING VENTURE. A GREAT SELL. A BEGGARLY SHOW. A DEAD-HEAD. 5-3 ir IS i> * 5 5. > > M 2 Z B-! -. if 8. ' 3 S i 8 g *1 6i AN AFTERNOON AT PANAMA. Deeming it always incumbent upon the traveller to invest in the produces of the country, Our Artist provides himself with a good sensible Panama hat, and thus with wife and "mutual friend," he peacefully and serenely meanders around among the suburbs of the city. i ? Pll 3 111 d _ 5> 5' sif J5 3 S w =-. H - STEAMSHIP "CHILE." FROM PANAMA TO CALLAO. Crossing the equinoctial line, Our Artist discovers that the rays of a vertical sun are anything but bracing and cool. 67 Ill S S a*a < a- in Ir 3 3 o 14 II r Is DOMESTICS IN PERU. One of the waiters at our hotel, clad in the inevitable poncho A genuine native Peruvian, perhaps a son of " Rolla the Peruvian," who was "within." 74 A PERUVIAN COOK. Peeping into the kitchen one day, Our Artist perceives that a costume, cool and neglige 1 , may be improvised by making a hole in a coffee-bag and getting into it. THE SAD REALITY. Alas I too frequently his thirsty eye is met only by such visions as the above and th? lovely beauties of Lima, where are they ? 79 1 S-i 3- - C ". " STREETS OF LIMA CALLE PALACIO. A young Peruvian accompanying its mamma to market ia the morning. STREETS OF LIMA CALLE PLATEROS. A picturesque little mirador or lookout at the corner of Calle Plateros and Bodegones, opposite the Hotel Maury, with balconies ad lib. 8a OCCUPATIONS IN LIMA. The paiiadero, or baker, as he appears on his mite of a ionkey, rushing round through the streets of Lima, delivering bread to his customers. In I I a* p. = s I - 3 7 97 TERPSICHORE IN PERU. Our Artist assists at a mask-ball in the Jardin Otaiza, and is puzzled at the nationality of the costumes worn by the dancers. 98 a) ** ~ w 3 ? I! 3 ?! 3" s 3' 8 * I i PRIESTS AND FRIARS OF LIMA. A theological discussion of the gravest import takes place between three jolly Fathers of the Roman Catholic Church a Dominican, a Mercedarian, and a Buena-Muertean. Scene The square in front of the church of San Fran- cisco, with its crooked cross. fra 3 8 3- > 2X9 B -<" 5? ' = r-, ?o-^ CURIOSITIES OF PERU. Having been informed by a musty old sepulcnral monk that the remains of Pizarro might be seen behind this grating, Our Artist tremblingly gazes therein but as it is pitch dark, he doesn't recognize Pizarro. 106 LAST DAY AT LIMA. A visit to the Museum which contains a not very remark- able collection of Peruvian antiquities and where Our Artist sees all that remains of the once magnificent Atahualpa, last king of the Incas. Alas, poor Yorick ! To this complexion must we come at last. Fit sketch wherewith to end this strange, eventful his- tory of " Our Artist in Peru." 108 PART III. SPAIN 109 A SPANISH OVERCOAT. Our Artist, upon his arrival in " Sunny Spain," is overtaken in the Pyrenees, on the French Frontier, by a terrific snow- storm, and is compelled to provide himself, at BAVONNE, with an Overcoat of the Country. no HACK.MEN IN SPAIN. Portraits of the three Hackmen, who (upon our arrival at the City of BURGOS, in the lead of night.) meet us at the Rail Road station, and propose accompanying us to our Hotel, in A CITIZEN OF VALLADOLID. Here is a faithful portrait of the Old Party who entered the cars at VAU.ADOLID ; carrying with him a few travelling con- A MADRID HAT. This is a Spanish Dandy at the Grand Opera House in MADRFD : first, with his cigarette and new Hat of the period ; second, after his Hat had been sat upon by a fat old Seuora, during the third act of Lucia di Lammermoor. 113 LOTTERIES IN SPAIN. Nearly all the Lottery tickets in Spain are publicly sold in the streets by Beggars : and this is the sort of Vagabond in MADRID to whom Our Artist confided $16 for a ticket that won a prize of $5. "4 B. V 9 = c 3 r> T2 C S-g. S, 3 P 5' i 3 .? rr . n =' H O S S. S J M. s 8 < a ' i * j S NAPOLEON BONAPARTE. Our Artist see* from the car-window, at a Rail-Road Station near Toledo, what, at a first glance, appears to be a statue of Napoleon Bonaparte, but : (see next page.) 116 A RAIL-ROAD OFFICIAL. the Statue suddenly becomes animated and revolves ; and the side-view reveals a CIVIL GUAKD, with carbine and knapsack beneath his big military cloak. 117 ARCHITECTURE IN CORDOVA. A picturesque little half Moorish and half Spanish dwelling bouse, in the Calle Jesus Maria ; with a couple of Priests in earnest discussion. it8 BALCONIES IN SEVILLE. Sketch of a private residence in Calle San Pablo ; from the upper Balcony of which, Our Artist had a rose thrown to him, while a cloaked Assassin of a probable Lover, lowered savagely at him from the doorway. 119 IL BARBIERE DI SIVIGLIA. The Barber of Seville, according to Rossini's Opera, and according to the way in which he is popularly believed to dis- port himself. (See next page.) A BARBAROUS PROCEEDING. The Barber of Seville, as he actually exists in that city, and precisely as he appeared while operating upon our Artist, one day, in the Calle de las Sierpes. 131 A CAFfc IN SEVILLE. Our Artist discovers, one day, in the Calle Tunidores, not exactly the most fashionable Caf6 in SEVILLE, butaCaft glory- ing in the ambitious name of JULIUS C.CSAR ! 132 TYPES OF SPANISH CHARACTER. Fellow Passengers in the Diligence to MALAGA one, a cor- pulent and famous Bull-Fighter, and the other, an envious and admiring follower of the same ennobling Profession. "3 3 j- 8 '2. 12S THE SPANISH GUITAR. A characteristic little sketch of a Guitar Player, in the window of a second-story dwelling, on the Alcmeda de Verano, at GRENADA. 126 11 . 5 5 127 o en B. sr 3 3 s <> " a, It S 128 129 A SPANISH VEGETABLE MARKET. A sketch in GIBRALTAR This fallow was seen wandering around the streets, selling vegetables to the natives, and steer- ing his Donkey by the tail. 130 PART IV. ALGIERS. 132 AN ARAB BEGGAR. One of the first Objects that greets the eagle eye of Our Artist, as he wanders around the streets of NEMOURS, is this cheerful " What-is-it," who mournfully begs for a few grains of corn. 133 AFRICAN WATER CARRIERS. Sketch of a fantastic little Fountain in one of the streets of the City of ORAN. o* o *3 f> p s < O o. 5 3. ANOTHER ARAB BEGGAR. This Gentleman, who accosted us in the suburbs of ORAN, assured us in tremulous accents that he had eaten nothing in seventeen days and we saw no reason for doubting his word. 136 S- o *> P " P s- 3 o = 137 COSTUMES IN AFRICA. Alarm of Our Artist, as he, for the first time, encounters a Moorish maiden, as she appears around the corner from a dark and narrow street, in the Kasbah quarter of the City of ALGIERS. 138 SOLDIERS IN AFRICA. A French Zouave off duty, as he appeared while listening to the Military Band that played every afternoon in the Place du Gouvernment, ALGIERS. J39 A STREET IN ALGIERS. The Rue Staouelt a narrow street in the old Arab Quarter of ALGIERS, where the houses nearly touch each other at their tops. 140 MANUFACTURES IN AFRICA. Sketch in the Rue Kasbah. A couple of Moorish Jews, engaged in silk spinning, at the door of their palatial residence. 141 MOORISH SHOP-KEEPER. This graceful and fairy-like Will-o'-the-Wisp, sold us some iovely silk embroideries, in ALGIERS, the like of which, Solomon, in all his glory never dreamed of. 142 FINE ARTS IN AFRICA. We visit the not very interesting Museum in ALGIERS, and sketch, among other curious objects, a Cast of an Arab Martyr [one G6ronimo], who had been buried alive in & box of Plaster of Paris. JARDIN D'ESSAI, ALGIERS. Merely a sketch (for the last page of this little book) of a Date- Palm Tree, in ALGIERS, with a couple of Arabs trying to get in its shade. 144 T II E This company is one of the oldest in this city, and has a high reputation for conservative and skilful management. Its Board of Directors comprises a number of the best known, most influ- ential, and wealthiest of our merchants and bankers. Its officers are men of proved integrity and aoility. The annual statement, submitted last January, and accepted by the State Commissioner of Insurance as correct, shows the assets to be $4,654,274, and the surplus, as already stated, to be over $800,000, or more than twenty per cent, of all the liabilities. The United States Life Insurance Co. is known in Life Insur- ance circles as one of the most carefully handled institutions in the city. So well has it been managed that its business has increased rather than retrograded during the past year, as bad as it has been for all kinds of business. And its losses have been less this year than in any of the five preceding. Its officers are among the best known and most highly esteemed citizens of New York. JAMES BOEI/T,, Eso., the Presi- dent, is the President of the Importers and Traders' Bank, a man whose name is a synonym for integrity and skill in finance, and its stockholders are men equally well known in business circles, and hold an equal share of public esteem. IP SO. JAMES BUELL, President. C, P. FRALEIGH, Sec'y. T. H. BROSNAN, Supt. Agencies. HENRY W. BALDWIN, Supt. Middle Department, Offir Drexel Building, cor, Wall & Broad Streets, ICTIE'W OUR ARTIST IN CUBA PERU, SPAIN AND ALG-IERS BY G-EORG-E W. CARLETON. Price fr 50 Cents. University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. n-IJRL 2 2 llliliiimiiBiili 4 Hlllllllllll * 000156069 7