Ex Libris [ C. K. OGDEN v_AAA O U 1 N MDCCLXIX, TROS TYRIUSQUE mihi nullo dlfcrlmlne CHESTER: PRINTED BY JOHN MQNK. MDCCLXXJ. Stack Annex 6- 2 T O 117 ( Sir ROGER MOSTYN, Bart. O F MOSTYNJ FLINTSHIRE. DEAR SIR, AGentlertian well known to the political world in the begin- ning of the prefent century made the tour of Europe j and before he reached Abbeville difcovered that in order to fee a country to beft advantage it was infinitely preferable to travel by day than by night; I cannot help making this appli- cable to myfelf, who, after publifh- ing three volumes of the Zoology of GREAT BRITAIN, found out that to A 2 be iv DEDICATION. be able to fpeak with more precifion of the fubje&s I treated of, it was far more prudent to vifit the whole than part of my country : ftruck therefore with the reflection of hav- ing never feen SCOTLAND, I infiantly ordered my baggage to be got ready, and ia a reafonable time found my- felf on the banks of the Tweed. As foon as I communicated to you my refolution, with your accuftomed friendfhip you wifhed to hear from me : I could give but a partial per- formance of my promife, the atten- tion of a traveller being fo much taken up as to leave very little room for the difcharge of epiftolary duties; and I flatter myfelf you will find this tardy execution of my engagement more fatisfa&ory than the hafty ac- counts I could fend you on my road : but this is far from being the fole motive of this addrefs. I have DEDICATION, I have irrefiftable inducements of public and of a private nature : to you I owe a moft free enjoyment of the little territories Providence had beftowed on me ; for by a liberal and equal ceffion of fields, and meads and woods, you connected all the divided parts, and gave a full fcope ,to all my improvements. Every view I take from my window reminds me of my debt, and forbids my filence, caufing the pleaiing glow of gratitude to diffufe itfelf over the whole frame, inftead of forcing up the imbittering figh of Oh! fi angulus ille ! Now every fcene I enjoy receives new charms, for I mingle with the vifible beauties, the more pleafing idea of owing them to you, the worthy neighbor and firm friend, who are happy in the calm and domeftic paths of life with abilities fuperior to oftentation, and goodnefs YI DEDICATION. goodnefs content with its own re- ward : with a found judgement and honeft heart you worthily difcharge the fenatorial truft repofed in you, whofe unprejudiced vote aids to ftill the madnefs of the People, or aims to check the prefumption of the Minifter. My happinefs in being from your earlieft life your neighbor, makes me confident in my obferva- tion ; your increafing and difcerning band of friends difcovers and con- firms the juftice of it : may the reafons that attract and bind us to you ever remain, is the moft grate- full wifh that can be thought of, by DEAR SIR, Your obliged and affectionate Friend y DOWNING, ThnmaQ Ppnnsnf Otofcrio, i;7i. inornas rennanu PLATES, I vii ] PLATES. I. T7MDER Drake and Duck, page 35 JLJ II. Dunkeld Cathedral, 75 III. Cafcade near 'Taymoutb, 80 IV. View from the King's Seat near Blair, 98 V. Brae-mar Caftle, with a diflant View of Inver- cauld, 1 06 VI. Invernefs, 137 VII. Frefwick Caftle, 152 VIII. The Gannet darting on its Prey, 155 IX. Caftle Urqbuart, 169 X. Upper Fall of Fyers, 170 XL Sterling Caftle, 208 XII. Arthur's Oven, and two Lochaber Axes, 212 XIII. Pillars in Penrith Church- Yard, 272 XIV. Roebuck. White Hare, 274 XV. Cock of the Wood, 278 XVI. Hen of the Wood. Ptarmigan, 279 XVII. Saury. Greater Weever, 284 XVIII. Thorney Crab. Cordated Crab. The laft from the Ifle of Wight. 286 Oppofite Page I. A View of the gigantic Yew-Tree in Fortingal Church-Yard. The middle part is now decayed to the ground; but within me- mory was united to the height of three feet: Captain Campbell of Glen-Lion having allured me that when a boy he has often climbed over, or rode on the then connecting part. ERRATA. f, ... -I nil J ERRATA, Page Line 2 3D I*. 5 28 48 53, 27 55 81 30 12 88- 3 93 F5 94 9- 95 5 : E09 129 8 laft thick,, round, appartmeirts, Dele In a fin all .fquare.. acdifice. Pclecon, inilratura, favourite, prevail, famines, jnojors, Clcin Raidr r clifb, Piokmy,, heroe, Cornuna, Bfl-tein, road, .apart tnents^ edifice. Peleyon. inflratam.. fafbritc. prevale. inajore, Glain Na'tdr,- cliffs. Ptolemy. hero. Cor nan a. rural facrifice; for Bel-tein, according to the ingenious Mr. James Mac Pterfon, fignifies the fire of the rock\ and of courfc is applicable only to the fpecies defcribed, p. qo. After other, cM the defcent. A tOUR A T O U R J N SCOTLAND. MDCCLXIX, ON Monday the 26th of JUNE take my depar- CHESTER. ture from CHESTER, a city without parallel for the lingular ftrufture of the four princi pal ftreets, which are as if excavated out of the earth, and funk many feet beneath the furface -, the carriages drive far beneath the level of the kitchens, on a line with ranges of {hops, over which on each fide of the ftreets pafTengers walk from end to end, in covered galleries, fecure from wet or heat. The back courts of all thefe houfes are level with the ground, but to go into any of thefe four ftreets it is necefiary to defcend a flight of fevef al fteps. The Cathedral is an antient ftruclure, very ragged on the outfide, from the nature of the red friable ftone * with which it is built : the tabernacle work in the choir is very neat ; but the beauty, and elegant fnnplicity of a very antique gothic chapter-houfc, is what merits a vifit from every traveller. The Hypocaujt near the Feathers Inn, is one of the remains of the Romans** ? it being well known that this place was a principal ftation. Among * Saxum arenarium friabilc rubrum Da Coftajofils. I. 1 39. < * * This city was thcDeva and Df then IN SCOTLAND-. then it lle/ed we, and when the eye faw me it gave witnefs to me ; Becau/e I delivered the poor that cried, and the fa- therlefs, and him that had none to help him. 'The bkjfing of him that was ready to -peri/h came upon me, and I caujed the widow's heart to fing for joy. I was eyes to the blind, and feet was I to the lame. After leaving Buxton, pafled thro* Middletcn dale, a deep narrow chafm between two vail clifts, which extend on each fide near a mile in length : this road is very fingular, but the rocks in general arc too naked to be beautifull. At the end is the fmall village of Stoney Middleton ; here the prolpect opens, and at Earjly Bridge exhibits a pretty view of a fmall but fertile vale, watered by the Derwent, and terminated by Chatfworth, and its plantations. Arrived and lay at Chefterfield , an ugly town. There is here a great manufacture of worfted ftockings, and another of a brown earthen-ware, much of which is fent into Holland ; the clay is found near the town, over the bafs orcherty* ftratum, above the coal. The ileeple of Cbefterfidd church is a fpire, covered with lead, but by a violent wind ilrangely bent, in which ftate it remains. In the road fide, about three miles from the town, are feveral pits of iron ilone, about nine or ten feet deep. The ftratum lies above the coal, and is two feet thick. I was informed that the adventurers pay ten pounds per annum to the Lord of the Soil, for liberty of raifmg it ; that the la- * Or flinty. B 3 borers. A T O U R borers have fix {Killings per load for getting it; each load is about twenty ftrikes or bufhels, which yields a tun of metal. Coal, in thefe parts, is very cheap, a tun and a half being fold for five {hillings. Changed horfes at Workjo-p and Tux/ord ; croffed the Trent at Dunham-Ferry, where it is broad but fhallow ; the fpring tides flow here, and rife about two feet, but the common tides never reach this place. Pafs along the Fofs-Dyke, or the canal opened by Henry I. * to form a communication be- tween the Trent and the William ; it was opened ** the year 1121, and extends from Lincoln to Tor- kefey, it& length is eleven miles three quarters, the breadth between dike and dike at the top is about fixty feet, at bottom twenty-two ; veflejs from fif- teen to thirty-five tuns navigate this canal, and by its means a confiderable trade in coals, timber, corn and wool, is carried on. In former times, the perfons who had landed property on either fide were obliged to fcower it whenever it was choaked up, and accordingly we find preferments were made by juries in feveral fucceeding reigns for that purpofe. Reach LINCOLN, an antient but ill-built city, much fallen away from its former extent. It lies partly on a plain, partly on a very fleep hill, on whofe fummit are the cathedral and the ruins of the caftle. The firft * Dugdale on embanking, 167. ** 1 make ufe of this word, as Doftor Sta/k/yconjefhires this canal to have been originally a Roman work ; and that another of the fame kind (called the Cardike) communicated with it, by means of the Witbam, which began a little below Wajbenbr ,' three miles from Lincoln, and was continued thro' the fens as far as Peterborough. The gentlemen who favored me with the account of the CarJike t referred me to Stukelys Caraufius, and his life of Richard of Ciren- cefter, books I have not at prelcnt before me. is IN SCOTLAND , is a vaft pile of gothic architecture^ has nothing remarkable on the outfide, but within is of match- lefs beauty and magnificence: the ornaments are excefiively rich, and in the fined gothic tafte , the pillars light, the centre lofty, and of a furprifing grandeur. The windows at the N. and S. .ends very antient, but very elegant ; one reprefents a leaf with its fibres, the other confifts of a number of fmall circles. There are two other antient win- dows on each fide the great iQe : the others, as I recollect, are modern. This church was, till of late years, much out of repair, but has juft been reftored in a manner that does credit to the Chapter. There is indeed a fort of arch near the W. end, that feems placed there (for the fame end as Bayes tells us he wrote one of his fcenes) meerly to fet off the reft. The profpect from this eminence is very exten- five, but very barren of objects, a vaft flat as far as the eye can reach, confifting of plains not the moft fertile, or of fens * and moors : the laft are far lets extenfive than they were, many being drained, and will foon become the beft' land in the country. But ftill much remains to be done ; the fens near ReveJby-Abby, eight miles beyond Horn- cajlk, are of vaft extent , but ferve for little other purpofe than the rearing great numbers of geefe, which are the wealth of the fenmen. * The ftns, naked as they now appear, were once well wooded ; oaks It ive been found buried in them, which were fixteen yards long, and five in circumference ; fir trees from thirty to thirty-five yards long, apd a foot or eighteen inches fquare. Thefe trees had not the mar: A" the ax, but appeared as if burnt dowr. by fire ap- plied to their lower p^arts. Acorns and fmall nuts have alfo been found in great quantities in the fame places. Dugdale on embank- ing, 141- B 4 During A T O U R During the breeding feafon, thefe birds arc lodged in the fame houfes with the inhabitants,, and even in their very bed-chambers : in every appart- ment are three rows of coarfe wicker pens placed one a&ove another j each bird has its feparate lodge divided from the other, which it keeps poflefiion of during the time of fitting. A perfon, called a Gozzard *, attends the flock, and tw ice a day drives the whole to water ; then brings them back to their habitations, helping thofe that live in" the upper ftories to their nefts, withoiu ever mifplacing a iingle bird. The geefe are plucked five times in the year ; the nrft plucking is at Lady-Day, for feathers and quils, and the lame is renewed, for feathers only, tour times more between that and Michaelmas. The old geefe fubmit quietly to the operation, but the young ones are very noify and unruly. I once faw this performed, and obferved that goflins of fix weeks old were not fpared -, for their tails were plucked, as I was told, to habituate them early to what they were to come to. If the feafon proves cold, numbers of geefe die by this barbarous cuf- torn **. Vaft numbers are drove annually to London^ to fupply the markets , among them, all the fuper- annuated geefe and ganders (called here Cagmagi) which ferve to fatigue the jaws of the good Citizens, who are fo unfortunate as to meet with them. * i. c. Goofe-herd. / ** It wasalfo pradifed by the tntients. CanJiJorum alterum *uec- yelliiKiur yutbufdam bcii bis aims. Fhnii lib. x. c. 22. INSCOTLAND. ! The fen called the Wtft Fen, is the place where Fenblrds - the RufFs and Reeves refort to in the greateft num- bers * ; and many other forts of water fowl, which do not require the fhelter of reeds or rufhes, mi- grate here to breed ; for this fen is very bare, having been imperfectly drained by narrow canals, which interfect it for great numbers of miles. Thefe the inhabitants navigate in moft diminutive mallow boats -, they are, in fact, the roads of the country. The Ea/l Fen is quite in a ftate of nature, and gives a fpecimen of the country before the intro- duction of drainage : it is a vaft tract of morafs, intermixed with numbers of lakes, from half a mile to two or three miles in circuit, communicating with each other by narrow reedy ilraits : they arc very mallow, none are above four or five feet in depth ; but abound with fifh, fuch as Pike, Pearch, Ruff, Bream, Tench, Rud, Dace, Roach, Bur- bolt, Sticklebacks and Eels. The fen is covered with reeds, the harveft of the neighboring inhabi- tants, who mow them annually -, for they prove a much better thatch than ftraw, and not only cot- tages but many very good houfes are covered, with them. Stares, which during winter refort in my- riads to rooft in the reeds, are very deftrudtive, by breaking them down by the vaft numbers that perch on" them. The people are therefore very diligent in their attempts to drive them away, and are at great expence in powder to free themfelves from thefe troublefome guefts. I have feen a ilock of reeds harvefted and flacked worth two or three * Br. Zool. II. 363. Suppl. tab.xv.p. zz. hundred io A T O U R hunched pounds, which was > the property of a fmgle farmer. The birds which inhabit the different fens are very numerous : I never met with a finer field for the Zoologift to range in. Befides the common Wild-duck, of which an account is given in another place *, wild Geefe, GaYganies, Pochards, Sho- velers and Teals, breed here. I have feen on the Eajt Fen a fmall flock of the tufted Ducks ; but they feemed to make it only a baiting place. The Pewit Gulls and black Terns abound ; the laft in vaft flocks almoft deafen one with their clamors : a few of the great Terns, or Tickets, are feen among them. I faw feveral of the great crefted Grebes on the Eaft Fen, called there Gaunts, and met with one of their floating nefts with eggs in it. The lefler creiled Grefre, the black and dufky Grebe, and the little Grebe, are alfo inhabitants of the fens ; toge- ther with Coots, Water-hens, fpotted Water-hens,. Water-rails, Ruffs, Redfhanks, Lapwings or Wipes, Red-breaded Godwits and Whimbrels. The God- wits breed near Wafoenlrougb \ the Whimbrels only appear for about a fortnight in May near Spalding^ and then quit the country. Oppofite to Foffdyke Wc>.Jh, during fummer, are great numbers of Avo- fettas, called there Yelpcrs, from their cry : they hover over the fportfman's head like the Lapwing, and fly with their necks and legs extended. - Knots are taken in nets along the mores near F0/j- dyke in great numbers during winter , but they dif- appear in the fpring. * Br.Zorjl. II. 462. In general, to avoid repetition, the reader is rc,fcrr'd to the four Ottawa volumes of Britijb Zoology, for a more particular aocouut of aafmals mentioned in this Tour. The IN SCOTLAND. The fhort-eared owl, Br. Zool. I. 156. vifits the neighborhood of Wajhenbrough^ along with the Woodcocks, and probably performs its migrations with thofe birds, for it is obferved to quit the coun- try at the fame time : I have alfo received fpecimens of them from the Dani/b dominions, one of the re- treats of the Woodcock. This owl is not obferved in this county to perch on trees, but conceals itfelf in long old grafs ; if difturbed, takes a fhort flight, lights again and keeps flaring about, during which time its horns are very vifible. The farmers are fond of the arrival of thefe birds, as they clear the fields of mice, and will even fly in fearch of prey during day, provided the weather is cloudy and mifty. But the greateft curiofity in thefe parts is the vaft Heronry. Herony at CreJJl-Hall^ fix miles from Spalding. The Herons refort there in February to repair their nefts, fettle there in the fpring to breed, and quit the place during winter. They are numerous as Rooks, and their nefts fo crouded together, that myfelf and the company that was with me counted not fewer than - eighty in one tree. I here had opportunity of de- tecting my own miftake, and that of other Orhitho- logifts, in making two fpecies of Herons ; for I found that the crefted Heron was only the male of the other : it made a moft beautifull appearance with its fnowy neck and long creft dreaming with the wind. The family who owned this place was or the fame name with thefe birds, which feems to be the principal inducement for preferving them. la 12 A T O U R In the time of Michael Drayton, Here flallCd the ftately crane, as though he marcFct in ivar. But at prefent this bird is quite unknown in our ifland -, but very other fpecies enumerated by that obfervant Poet ilill are found in this fenny tract, or its neighborhood. JtTNE.z8, Vifited Spatting^ a place very much refembling, . j n orm> nea tnefs, and fituation, a Dutch town : the river Welland paffes through one of the ftreets, a canal is cut through another, and trees are planted on each fide. 1 he church is a handfome ftructure, the fteeple a fpire. The churches in general, throughout this low tract, are very handfome ; all are built of ftone, which muft have been brought from places very remote along temporary canals ; for, in many inilances, the quarries lie at left twenty miles difrant. But theie axtifices were built in zealous ages, when the benedictions or maledictions of the church made the people conquer every diffi- culty that might obftruct thefe pious foundations. The abby of Crowland, feared in the midft of a fbakfng fen, is a curious monument of the iniu- perable zeal of the times it was erected in , as the beautifull. tower of Bofton church, vifible from all parts, is a magnificent fpecimen of a fine gothic JUNE 29, Faffed near the fite' of Swine/head- Abby , of which tnere are not tne ^ e ft remains. In the walls of a farm houfe, built out of the ruins, you are fhewen the figure of a Knight Templar, and told it was the m6nk who poifoned King John,, a fact denied by our beft hiftorians. Returned INSCOTLAND. 13 Returned thro* Lincoln^ went out of town under the Newport-Gate, a curious Roman work ; pafled over part of the heath, changed horfes at Spittle^ and at Glanford-Bridge^ dined at the ferry-houfe on the banks of the Humber, and after a paflage of about five miles, with a brifk gale, landed at ////, and reached that night Burton-ConJlable, the feat of Mr. Covftable^ in that part of Torkjhire called hoi- dernefs ; a dull, flat country, but excellent for pro- ducing large cattle, and a good breed of horfes, whofe prices are near doubled fmce the French have grown fo fond of the Engli/b kind. Made an excurfion to Hornfea, a fmall town on the coaft, remarkable only for its mere, a piece of water about two miles long, and one broad, fa- mous for its pike and eels ; it is divided from the fea by a very narrow bank, fo is in much danger of being ibmetime or other loft. 4 The cliffs on the coaft of Holdernefs arc high, and compofed of clay, which falls down in vaft fragments. Quantity of amber is wafhed out of Amber, it by the tides, which the country people pick up and fell , it is found fometimes in large mafles, but 1 never faw any fo pure and clear as that from the Baltic. It is ufually of a pale yellow color within, and prettily clouded ; the outfide covered with a thin coarie coat. After riding about twenty-two miles thro' a flat JWLY*J grazing country, reached Burlington -Quay , a fmall town clofe to the fea. There is a defign of build- ing a pier, for the protection of (hipping , at pre- fent there is only a large wooden quay, which pro- jects into the water, from which the place takes its name 14 A T O U R name. From hence is a fine view of the white cliffs of Flambcrougb-liead, which extends far to the Eaft, and forms one fide of the Gabrantuicorum Jinus portucfos of Ptolomy^ a name derived from the Brittfh Gyfr? on account of the number of goats found there, according to the conjecture of Camb- den. A mile from hence is the town of Burlington. The body of the church is large, but the fteeple, by fome accident, has been deftroyed ; near it is a large gateway, with a noble gothic arch, pofiibly the remains of a priory of black canons, founded by Walter de Gant, in the beginning of the reign of Henry I. This coaft of the kingdom is very unfavourable to trees, for, except fome woods in the neighbor- hood of Bur toti-Conft able i there is a vaft nakednefs from the Humber^ as far as the extremity of Caith- nefs, with a very few exceptions, which mail be noted in their proper places. . I tJi - Y .^ "Went to Ftamborcugb-'Hea.d. The town is on - the North fide, confifls of about one hundred and fifty fmall houfes, entirely inhabited by fifhermen, few of whom, as is faid, die in their beds, but meet their fate in the element they are fo conver- iant in. Put myfelf under the direction of William Camidge^ Ciceroni of the place, who conducted me to a little creek at that time covered with fiih, a fleet of cobles having juft put in. Went in one of thofe little boats to view the Head, coaftirtg.it. for upwards of two miles. The cliffs are of a tre- mendous height, and amazing grandeur j beneath are fevcral vaft caverns, fome clofed at the end, others IN SCOTLAND. 15 others are pervious, formed with a natural arch, giving a romantic paflage to the boat, different from that we entered. In fome places the rocks are in- flated, are of a pyramidal figure, and foar up to a vaft height , the bafes of mod are folid, but in fome pierced thro*, and arched-, the color of all thefe rocks is white, from the dung of the innu- merable flocks of migratory birds, which quite Its birds, cover the face of them, filling every little projec- tion, every little hole that will give them leave to reft , multitudes were fwimming about, others fwarmed in the air, and almofl ftunned us with the variety of their croaks and fcreams-, I obferved among them corvorants, mags in fmall flocks, guillemots, a few black guillemots very my and wild, auks, puffins, kittiwakes *, and herring gulls. Landed at the fame place, but before our return to Flamborough^ viflted Robin Leitb's hole, a vaft cavern, to which there is a narrow paflage from the land fide; it fuddenly rifes to a great height, the roof is finely arched, and the bottom is for a confiderable way formed in broad fteps, re- fembling a great but eafy ftair-cafe ; the mouth opens to the fea, and gives light to the whole. Lay at Hunmandby^ a fmall village above Filey Bay, round which are fome plantations that thrive tolerably well, and plight to be an encouragement to gentlemen to attempt covering thefe naked hills. Fiky Brig is a ledge of rocks running far into the fca, and often fatal to fhipping. The bay is fandy, and affords vaft quantities of fine filh, lucK * Called here Petreh. Kr. Zoo!. Sutpl. tab. xxiii./. 26. as 16 A T O U R as Turbot, Soles, &c. which during fummer ap- proach the (bore, and are eaiily taken in a common ieine or dragging-net. JULY 4. Set out for Scarborough, patted near the lite of Flixi'on, a hofpital founded in the time of Atbelftan, to give fhelter to travellers from the wolves, that they Jhould not be devoured by them *j fo that in thofe days this bare tract muft have been covered with wood, for thofe ravenous animals ever inhabit large forefts. Thefe hofpitia are not unfrequent among the Alps ; are either appendages to religious houfes, or fupported by voluntary fubfcriptions. On the fpot where Flixton flood is a farm-houfe, to this day called the Spital Houfe. Reach SCARBOROUGH a large town, built in form of a crefcent on the fides of a deep hill , at one extre- mity are the ruins of the caftle feated on a cliff of a ftupendous height, from whence is a very good view of the town. In the caftle-yard is a handlbme barrack for one hundred and fifty men,, but. at pre- fent untenanted by foldiery. Beneath, on the ibuth fide, . is a large ftone pier, (another is now build- ing) which flickers the (hipping belonging to the town. It is a place abfolutely without trade, yet owns above 300 fail of mips, which are hired out for freight : in the late war the Government had never lels than 100 of them ii} pay. The number of inhabitants belonging to this place are above 10,000, but as great part are iiiilors, nothing like that number are refident, which makes one church fufficient for thofe who live en fhore. It is large, and feated almoft on * :Ca?Kb:ien Brit. II. 002. the IN SCOT LAND. 17 the top of the hill. The range of buildings on the Cliff commands a fine view of the caftle, town, and Ihore, and of innumerable fhipping that are perpetually patting backward and forward on their voyages. The fpaw * lies at the foot of one of the hills, S. of the town ; this and the great conveni- ency of fea-bathing, occafion a vaft refort of com- pany during fummer; it is at that time a place of great gayety, for with numbers health is the pre- tence, but diflipation the end. The fhore is a fine hard fand, and during low water is the place where the company amufe them- felves with riding. This is alfo the fifh market ; for every day the cobles, or little riming boats, are drawn on more here, and lie in rows, often quite loaden with variety of the beft fifh. There was a .fifherman, on the 9th of May, 1767, brought in at one time, 20 Cods, 14 Lings, 17 Skates, 8 Holibuts, befides a vaft quantity of lefler fifh ; and fold the whole for 3!. 155. It is fuperfluous to repeat what has been before mentioned, of the me- thods of fifhing, being amply defcribed Vol. III. p. 193, of the Britijo Zoology , yet it will be far from impertinent to point out the peculiar advantages of thefe feas, and the additional benefit this town might * The waters are impregnated with a purgative fait, (Glauber's) a imall quantity of common fait, and of iteel. There are two wells, the fartheit from the town is more purgative, and its taite more bitter ; the other is more chalybeate, and its tafte more brifk and pungent. D. H. C experience, iS A T O U R experience, by the augmentation of its fifheries. For this account, and for numberlefs civilities, I think mylelf much indebted to Mr. Travis^ fur- geon, who communicated to me the following Re- marks : Scarborough is fituated at the bottom of a bay, formed by Whitby rock on the North, and Flambo- rougb-hezd on the South -, the town is feated directly oppofite to the centre of the W. end of the Dogger bank ; which end, (according to Hammond's chart of the North Sea) lies S. and by W. and N. and by E. but by a line drawn from Tinmouth caftle, would lead about N. W. and S. E. Tho' the Dog- ger bank is therefore but 1 2 leagues from Flambo- r^/6-head, yet it is 1 6 and a half from Scarborough? 23 from Whitby > and 36 from Tinmouth caftle. The N. fide of the bank ftretches off E. N. E. between 30 and 40 leagues, nntiil it almoft joins to the ~Long-Eank, and Jutfs Riff. It is to be remarked, that the fimermen feldom find any Cod, Ling, or other round fifh upon the Dogger bank itfelf, but on the Hoping edges and hollows contiguous to it. The top of the bank is covered with a barren fhifting fand, which affords them no fubfiftence ; and the water on it, from its fhallownefs, is continually fo agitated and broken, as to allow them no time to reft. The flat fifh do not fuffer the fame inconvenience there; for when difturbed by the motion of the fea, they melter themfelves in the fand, and find variety of fuitable food. It is true, the Dutch fifh upon the Dogger bank, but it is alfo true they take little except Soles, Skates, Thornbacks, Plaife, &c. It is in the hol- lows I N S C O T L A N D. lows between the Dogger and the Well-Bank, that the Cod are taken, which fupply London market. The fhore, except at the entrance of Scarbo- rough pier, and fome few other places, is com- pofed of covered rocks, which abound with Lobfters and Crabs, and many other mell fim, (no Oyfters) thence, after a fpace covered with clean fand, extending in different places from one to five or fix miles. The bottom, all the way to the edge of the Dogger banks, is a fear ; in fome places very rugged, rocky, and cavernous -, in others fmooth, and overgrown with variety of fubmarine plants, Mofles, Corallines, &c. * fome parts again are fpread with fand and (hells ; others, for many leagues in length, with foft mud and ooze, furnimed by the difcharge of the Tees and Humber. Upon an attentive review of the whole, it may be clearly inferred, that the more along the coaft on the one hand, with the edges of the Dogger bank on the other, like the fides of a decoy, give a direction towards our fiming grounds to the mighty Ihoals of Cod, and other fim, which are well known to come annually from the Northern ocean into our feas ; and fecondly, that the great variety of fiming grounds near Scarborough^ extending upwards of 1 6 leagues from the more, afford fecure retreats and plenty of proper food for all the various kinds of fim, and alfo fuitable places for each kind to de- pofit their fpawn in. The fifhery at Sarbarough only employs 105 men, and brings In about 5250!. per annum, a * I met with on the fhores near Scarlonusb, fmall fragments of the true red coral. C 2 trifle trifle to what it would produce, was there a canal from thence to Leeds and Mambefter -, it is proba- ble it would then produce above ten times thatfum, employ Tome thoufands of men, give a comfortable and cheap fubfiftence to our manufacturers, keep the markets moderately reafonable, enable our manu- facturing towns to undersell our rivals, anil prevent the hands, as is too often the cafe, raifing infur- rections, in every year of fcarcity, natural or artificial. On diicourfmg with fome very intelligent fiflier- men, I was informed of a very fingular phenomenon they annually obferve about the ipawning of fifh*. At the diita'nce of 4 or 5 leagues from more, during the months of July and Auguft^ it is remarked, that at the depth of 6 or 7 fathom from the furface, the water appears to be fatu rated with a thick jelly, filled with the Ova of fifh, which reaches 10 or 12 fathoms deeper , this is known b^ its adhering to- the ropes the cobles anchor with when they are fiming, for they find the firft 6 or 7 fathom of rope free from fpawn, the next 10 or 12 covered with flimy matter, the remainder again free to the bot- tom. They fuppofe this gelatinous fluff to fupply the new-born fry with food, and that it is alib a protection to the fpawn, as being difngreeable to. the larger fiffi to fwim in. There is great variety of fifh brought on more ;. befides thofe defcribed as Britijh fifh, were two fpe- cies of Rays: the Whip-Ray has alib been taken * Mr. OJleck obferved tlie fame in S. Lat. 3$, ^6, in his return from Lbina. The iearnen call it the li\ criug oi the water. PoL II. 72. here: INSCOTLAND. 21 here, and another fpecies of Weever ; but thefe are fubjects more proper to be referred to a Fauna* than an Itinerary, for a minute defcription. Left Scarborough^ paffed over large moors to J ULY I0 - Robin Hood's Bay. On my round, obferved the vail mountains of alum ftone, from which that Alum Works, fait is thus extracted : It is firft calcined in great heaps, which continue burning by its own phlo- gifton, after being well fet on fire by coals, for fix, ten, or fourteen months, according to the fize of the heap, fome being equal to a.fmall hill. It is then thrown into pits and fteeped in water, to ex- tract all the faline particles. The liquor is then run into pther pits, where the vitriolic falts are precipitated, by the addition of a folution of the fal fodn his march. At INSCOTLAND. 25 At the end of this moor, about three miles from Gijborough, is a beautifull view over the remaining part of York/hire ', towards Durham, Hartlepool, and the mouth of the Tees, which maeanders through a very rich tract. The country inftantly afiumes a new face ; the road lies between moil delightfull hills finely wooded, and the little vales between them very fertile : on fome of the hills are the marks of the firft alum works, which were difcovered by Sir Thomas Cbaloner. GISBOROUGH, afmall town, pleafantly fituated in a ^vale, furrounded at fome diftance by hills, and open on the eaft to the fea, which is about five miles diftant. It is certainly a delightfull fpot, but I cannot fee the reafon why Cambden compares it to Puteoli. Here was once a priory of the canons of the order of St. Auftin, founded by Robert de Brus, 1 129,. after the diffblution granted by Edward VI. to the Cbaloners : a very beautifull eaft window of the church is ftill remaining. The town has at prefent a good manu- facture of fail cloth. The country continues very fine quite to the banks of the Tees, a cdnfiderable river, which di- vides Tork/hire from the bifhoprick of Durham. After travelling 109 miles in a ftrait line through the firft, enter Durham, croffing the river on a very handlbme bridge of . arches, the battlements neatly panneled with ftone ; and reach STOCKTON, lying on the Tees in form of a cref- cent. A handfome town ; the principal ftreet is remarkably fine, being 165 feet broad j and feveral leffer ftreets run into it at right angles. In the mid- dle of the great ftreet are rieat ftiambles, a town- houfe, A T O U R houfe, and large afiembly-room. There is befides a large fquare. About a century ago, according to Anderfon, it had fcarce a houfe that was not made of clay and thatch j but is now a flourifhing place. Its manufacture is fail cloth ; and great quantities of corn, and lead, (from the mineral parts of the county) are feat off from hence by commiffion. As the river does not admit of large veffels fo high as the town, thofe commodities are fent down to be jfhipped. The falmon fifhery here is neglected, for none are taken beyond what is neceflary to fupply the country, Smelts come up the river in the winter time. On the weft fide of the town flood the caftle ; what remained Of it is at prefent converted into a barn. The country from hence to Durham is flat, very fertile, and much inclofed. Towards the weft is a fine view of the highlands of the country : thofe hills are part of that vaft ridge which commence in the north and deeply divide this portion of the kingdom j and on that account are called by Camb- den the Apennines of England. The approach to DURHAM is romantic, through a deep holloxr, cloathed on each fide with wood. The city is pretty large, but the buildings old. Part are on a plain, part on the fide of a hill. The abby, or cathedral, and the caftle, where the Bifhop lives when he refides here, are on the fummit of a cliff, whofe foot is waftied on two fides by the liver Were. The walks on the oppofite banks are very beautifull, flagged in the middle and paved on the fides, and are well kept. They are cut through the IN S C O T L A*N D. 27 the wood, impend over the river, and receive a venerable improvement ^from the caftle and antient cathedral which foar above. The laft is very cjd * , plain without, and fup- ported within by marly pillars, deeply engraved with lozenge-like figures, and zigzag furrows: others are plain , and each forms a clutter of pillars. The fkreen to the choir is wood covered with a coarfe 1 carving. The choir neat, but without or- nament. The chapter-houfe feems very antient, and is in he form of a theatre. The cloifters large and handfome. All the monuments are defaced, ex- cept that of Bilhop Hatfald. The Prebendal houfes are very pleafantly fituated, and have a fine view backwards. There are two handfome bridges over the Were to the walks; and a third covered with houfes, which join the two parts of the town. This river produces Salmon, Trout, Roach, Dace, Minow,. Loche, Bulhead, Sticklebacks, Lamprey, the leffer Lamprey, Eels, Smelts and Samlet, which are called here Rack-riders^ becaufe they appear in winter, or bad weather ; Rack, in the northern dia- led, fignifying the driving of the clouds by tem- pefts. It is obferved here, that before they go off to fpawn, thofe filh are covered with a white ilimc. There is no inconfiderable manufacture, at Dur- ham, of malloons, tammies, ftripes and caHaman- coes. I had heard on my road many comphiints of the ecclefiaftical government this county is fubjecl * Begun in 1093, by Bifliop U'illiair. c?c Carileplv. to; A T O U R to ; but, from the general face of the country, it feems to thrive wonderfully under them. JULY 12. Saw Coker, the feat of Mr. Car ; a mod romantic fituation, layed out 'with great judgment; the walks i are very extenfive, principally along the fides or at the bottom of deep dells, bounded with vaft preci- pices, finely wooded -, and many parts of the rocks are planted with vines, which 1 was told bore well, but late. The river Were winds along the hollows, and forms two very fine reaches at the place where you enter thefe wajks. Its waters are very clear, and its bottom a folid rock. The view towards the ruins of Fincbal-Abby is remarkably great ; and the walk beneath the cliffs has a magnificent iblemnity, a fit retreat for its monaftic inhabitants. This was once called the Defert, and was the rude fcene of the aufierities of St. Godric, who carried them to the moll fenfelds extravagance *. A ibber mind may even at- prefcnt be affected with horror at the proipeft from the fummits of the cliffs into a dark - iome and ilupendous chafm, rendered {till more * St. Godr'ic was born XiWalpde in Norfolk, and being an itine- rant merchant got acquainted \\ith St. Cutklnrt at farn Ijland. He made three pilgrimages to Jerufalem ; at length, was warned by a. vifion to fettle m the defert of Fincbal. He lived a hermetical life there during 63 years, and practiied unheard-of aulterities : he wore an iron mirt next his /kin, day and night, and wore out three: he mingled afhes with the flower he made his bread of ; and, leaft it fhould then be too good, kept it three or four months before he ventured to eat it. In winter, as well as fummer, he palled whole nights, up to his chin in water, at his devotions. Like St. Antony, he was often haunted by fiends in various fhapes ; fometimes in form of beautifull damfels, fo was vilited with evil concupifcence, which he cured by rolling naked among thorns and briars: his body grew ulcerated} but, to encreafe his pain, he poured fait into the wounds. Wrought many miracles, and died 1170. Britannia facra, 304. About ten years after his deceafe, a Benediftine priory of thirteen monks was founded there in his honor, fay Hugh PuJfe?, Bifhop of Durban. tremendous I N S C O T -L A ; N D 29 tremendous by the roaring of the waters over its diftant bottom. Faffed through Cbefter-le-Street^ a fmall town, near which is Lumly-Caftle, the feat of the Earl of Scarborough ; a place, as I was told, very well worth feeing ;. but unfortunately it proved a public day, and 1 loft fight of it. The country, from Durham to Neivrapfe, was very beautifull <, the . rifings gentle, and .prettily wooded, and the views agreeable , that on the borders remarkably fine, there being, from an eminence not far from the capital of Northumberland^ an extenfive view of a rich country, watered by the coaly Tjtte. Reach NEWCASTLE, a large, difagreeable, and dirty NEWCASTLE. town, divided in two unequal parts by the river, and both fides very deep. The lower parts are inhabited by Keelmen and their families, a muti- nous race ; for which reafon this town is always garrifoned. The great bufmefs of the place is the coal trade. The collieries lie at different diftances, from five to eighteen miles from the river j and the coal is brought down in waggons along rail roads, and difcharged from covered buildings at the edge of the water into the keels or boats that are to convey it on fhipboard. Thefe boats are ftrong, clumfy and round, will carry about 25. tuns each j fometimes are navigated with, a fquare fail, but generally are pufhed along with large poles. No mips of large burthen can come up as high as Newcaftle, but are obliged to lie at Shields, a few miles down the, river,, where ftage coaches go thrice every day for the conveniency of paffengers. This country is moft remarkably 50 A T O U R remarkably populous ; Newcaftle alone contains near 40,000 inhabitants ; and there are at left 400 fail of {hips belonging to that town and its port. The effect of the vaft commerce of this place is very apparent for many miles round ; the country is finely cultivated, and bears a moft thriving and opulent afpet. . Left Newcaftle-y the country in general flat; palTed by a large ftone column with three dials on the capital, with fever al fcripture texts on the fides, called here Pigg's Folly, from the founder. A few miles further is Stannington Bridge, a plea- fant village. Morpeth^ a fmall town with a neat town-houfe, and a tower for the bell near it. The caftle was on a fmall eminence, but the remains are now very inconfiderable. Some attempt was made a few years ago to introduce the Manchefter manu- facture, but without fuccefs. There is a remarkable ftory of this place, that the inhabitants reduced their own town to ames, on the approach of King John., A. D. 1215, out of pure hatred to their mo- narch, in order that he might not find any fhelter there. This place gave birth to William Turner, as Dr. Fuller exprefies it, an excellent Latinift y Grecian, Oratour, and Poet ; he might have added polemic divine, champion and furFerer in the proteftant caufe, phyfician and naturalift. His botanic wri- tings are among the firft we had, and certainly the beft of them ; and his criticifms on the birds of Ariftotle and Ptiny, are very judicious. He was the firft who finng any light on thofe fubjeds in our ifland ; IN SCOTLAND. 3I ifland ; therefore clames from a naturalift this tri- bute to his memory *. Felton^ a pleafant village on the Coquet^ which, fome few miles lower, difcharges itfelf into the fea, oppofite to a fmall ifle of the fame name, remarkable for the multitudes of water-fowl which refort there to breed. At Alnwicki a fmall town, the traveller is difap- Alnwlck pointed with the fituation and environs of the caftle, e * the refidence of the Percies, the antient Earls of Northumberland. You look in vain for any marks of the grandeur of the feudal age j for trophies won by a family eminent in our annals for military pirowefs and deeds of chivalry ; for halls hung with helms and haberks, or with the fpoils of the chace^ for extenfive forefts, and venerable oaks. You look in vain for the helmet on the tower, the antient fignal of hofpitality to the traveller, or for the grey-headed porter to conduct him. to the hall of entertainment. The numerous train, whofe coun- tenances gave welcome to him on his way, are now no more ; and inftead of the difmterefted ulher of the old times, he is attended by a valet eager to receive the fees of admittance. There is vaft grandeur in the appearance of the outfide of the caftk -, the towers magnificent, but injured by the numbers of rude ftatues crouded on the battlements. The appartments are large, and lately finilhed in the gothic ftyle with a moft incom- patible elegance. The gardens are equally incon- fiftent, trim to the higheft degree, and more adapted - * Hcv/as born in the reign of Henry VIII. died in 1568. to 32 A T O U R to a villa near London, than the antient feat of a great Baron. In a word, nothing, except the num- bers of uninduiirious poor that fwarm at the gate, excites any one idea of its former circumftances. A flage further is Eelford^ the feat of Abraham Dixon, Efq; a modern houfe , the front has a mod beautiful! fimplicity in it. The grounds improved as far as the art of hufbandry can reach ; the plan- tations large and flourifhing : a new and neat town, inftead of the former wretched cottages , and an induftrious race, inftead of an idle poor, at prefent fill the eftate. On an eminence on the fea coaft, abou: four miles from Self or d, is the very antient caftle of Bamborougk, built by Ida> firft king of the Nor- thumbrians^ A. D. 548. But, according to the con- jecture of an antiquarian I met with there, on the fite of a Roman fortrefs. It was alfo his opinion, that the fquare tower was actually the work of the Romans. It had been of great ftrcngth , the hill it is founded on exceflively fteep on all fides, and ac- celfible only by flights of fteps on the fouth eaft. Tile ruins are itill confiderable ; the remains of a great hall are very fmgular ; it had been warmed by two fire-places of a vaft fize, and from the top of every window ran a flue, like that of a chimney, which reached the fummits of the battlements. Many of the ruins are now filled with fand, caught up by the winds that rage here with great impe- tuofny, and carried, to very diftant places. This caftle, and the manour belonging to it, was once tfye property of the Fcrfters , but purchafed by IN SCOTLAND. 33 by Lord Crew, Bifhop of Durham, and with other Biihop cv considerable eftates, left veiled in Truftees, to be applied to unconfined charitable ufes Three of thefe Truftees are a majority : one of them makes this place his refidence, and blefles the coaft by his judicious and humane application of the Prelate's generous bequeft. He has repaired and rendered habitable the great fquare tower: the part referred for himfelf and family is a large hall and a frw fmaller apartments ; but the reft of the fpacious edifice is allotted for purpofes which make the heart to glow with joy when thought of. The upper part is an ample grain ary ; from whence corn is difpenced to the poor without diftin&ion, even in the deareft time, at the rate of four millings a bufhel ; and the diftrefied, for many miles round, often experience the conveniency of this benefaction. Other apartments are fitted up for the reception of fhipwrecked failors j and bedding is provided for about thirty, mould fuch a number happen to be caft on more at the fame time. A conftant pa- trole is kept every ftormy night along this tem- peftuous coaft, for above eight miles, the length of the manour, by which means numbers of lives have been preferved. Many poor wretches are often found on the more in a ftate of infenfibility , but by timely relief, are foon brought to themfelves. It often happens, that Ihips ftrike in fuch a man- ner on the rocks as to be capable of relief, in cafe numbers of people could be fuddenly afiembled : for that purpofe a cannon * is fixed on the top of * Once belonging to a Dutch frigate of 46 guns ; which, with all the crew, was lolt oppofue to the cattle, about fixty years ago. D the 34 A T O U R the tower, which is fired once, if the accident hap- pens in fuch a quarter ; twice, if in another, and thrice, if in fuch a place. By thefe fignals the country people are directed to the fpot they are to fly to ; and by this means, frequently preferve not only the crew, but even the veffel ; for machines of different kinds are always in readinefs to heave fhips out of their perillous fituation. In a word, all the fchemes of this worthy Truftee have a humane and ufeful tendency : he feemed as if felected from his brethren for the fame purpofes as Spenfer tells us the firft of his feven Beadfmen in the houfe of holinejje was. The firft of them, that eldeft was and bed, Of all the houfe had charge and governement, As guardian and fteward of the reft : His office was to give entcrtainement And lodging unto all that came and went : Not unto fuch as could him feaft againe, And doubly quite for that he on them fpent ; But fuch as want of harbour did conftraine ; Thofe, for GOD'S fake, his dewty was to entcrtaine. Oppofite to Bamborwgh lie the Farn iflands, which form two groupes of little illes and rocks to, the number of feventeen, but at low water the points of others appear above the furface ; they all are diftinguifhed by particular names. The neareft ifle to the more is that called the Houfe IJland y which lies exactly one mile 68 chains from the coaft : the mod diflant is about fcven or eight miles. They are rented for i61. per annum: their produce is kelp, fome few feathers, and a few feals, which the tenant watches and ihoots for the fake of the oil and jfkins. Some of them yeild a little IN SCOTLAND. 35 little grafs, and ferve to feed a cow or two, which the people are defperate enough to tranfport over in their little boats. Vifited thefe iflands in a coble, a fafe but ieem- JULY 15. ingly hazardous fpecies of boat, long, ^narrow and flat-bottomed, which is capable of going thro* a high fea, dancing like a cork on the fummits of the waves. Touched at the rock called the Meg, whitened with the dung of corvorants which almoft covered it; their nefts were large, made of tang, and moft excefiively fsetid. Rowed next to the Pinnacles, an ifland in the fartheft groupe ; fo called from fome vaft columnar rocks at the fouth end, even at their fides, and flat at their tops, and entirely covered with guillemots and fhags : the fowlers pafs from one to the other of thefe columns by means of a narrow board, which they place from top to top, forming a nar- row bridge, over fuch a horrid gap, that the very fight of it ftrikes one with horror. Landed at a fmall ifland, where we found the female Eider ducks * at that time fitting : the lower Eider Ducb, part of their nefts was made of fea plants; the' upper part was formed of the down which they pull off their own breads, in which the eggs were furrounded and warmly bedded : in fome were three, in others five eggs, of a large fize and pale olive color, as fmooth and glofly as if varniflied over. The nefls are built on the beach, among the loofe pebbles, not far from the water. The * Vide Et. ZooL II. 41:4. I have been informed that they alfo breed >n Incb-Cthn, in the Firth offtrfa. D 2 Ducks 3* A T O U R Ducks fit very clofe, nor will they rife till you al- moil tread on them. The Drakes feparate them- felves from the females during the breeding feafon. We robbed a few of their nefts of the down, and after carefully feparating it from the tang, found that the down of one neft weighed only three quar- ters of an ounce, but was fo claftic as to fill the crown of the largeft hat. The people of this country call thefe St. Cuthbert's ducks, from the faint of the iflands. Befides thefe birds, I obferved the following : Puffins, called here I'om Noddies, Auks, here Skoufs, Guillemots, Black Guijlemor, Little Auks, Shiel-ducks, Shags, Corvorants, Black and white Gulls, Brown and white Gulls, Herring Gulls, which I was told fed fometimes on eggs of other birds, Common Gull, here Annets, Kittiwakes, or Tarrocks, Pewit Gulls, Great Terns, Sea Pies, Sea Larks, here Brokets, Jackdaws, which breed in rabbet-holes, Rock Pigeons, Rock Larks. The INSCOTLAND. 37 The Terns were fo numerous, that in fome places it was difficult to tread without crufhing fome of the eggs. The laft ifle I vifited was the Houfe ijland, the fequeftered fpot where St. Cuthbert pafled the two laft years of his life. Here was afterwards efta- blifhed a priory of Benediftines for fix or eight Monks fubordinate to Durham. A fquare tower, the remains of a church, and fome other buildings, are to be feen there ftill j and a ftone coffin, which, it is pretended, was that of St. Cuthbert. At the north end of the ifle is a deep chafm, from the top to the bottom of the rock, communicating to the fea; through which, in tempeftuous weather, the water is forced with vaft violence and noife, and forms a fine jet tfeau of fixty-fix feet high : it is called by the inhabitants of the oppofite coaft the Churn. Reached more through a moft turbulent rippling, occafioned by the fierce current of the tides between the iflands and the coaft. Purfued my journey northward. Saw at a dif- tance the Cheviot hills ; on which, I was informed, the green Plovers breed , and that, during winter, flocks innumerable of the great Bramblings, or Snow-flakes, appear ; the moft fouthern place of their migration, in large companies. The country almoft woodlefs, there being but one wood of any confequerice between Belford and Berwick. Saw on the left an antient tower, which {Viewed the character of the times when it was un- happily necefTary, on thefe borders, for every houfe to be a fortrefs. D 3 On 33 A T O U R On the right, had a view of the fea, and, not re- mote from the land, of Lindesfarn, or Holy Ifland, once an epifcopal feat, afterwards tranflated to Durham. On it are the ruins of a caftle and a church: In fome parts are abundance of Entrochi, which are called by the country people St. Cuth- frerfs beads. After a few. miles riding, have a full view of Berwick, and the river Tweed winding weftward for a confiderable way up the country; but its banks were without any particular charms *, being almoft woodlefs. The river is broad ; and has over it a bridge of fixteen very handfome arches, elpe- cially two next the town. BERWICK is fortified in the modern way; but is much contracted in its extent to what it was for- merly, the old caftle and works now lying at fome diftance beyond the prefent ramparts. The bar- racks are large, confift of a center and two wings. The church was built by Cromwel, and, according to the fpirit of the builder, without a fteeple. Even in Northumberland, (towards the borders) the ftee- ples grew lefs and lefs, and as if it were forewarned the traveller that he was fpeedily to take leave of epifcopacy. The town-houfe has a large and hand- fome modern tower to it : the ftreets in general are narrow and bad, except that in which the town- houfe (lands. Abundance of wool is exported from this town : eggs in vaft abundance collected through all the * I was informed that the beautifull banks of the Tweed verify the old ibng at the pafTage at Colftreaix. country^ IN SCOTLAND. 39 country, almoft as far as Carlijle : they are packed in boxes, with the thick end downwards, and are fent to London for the ufe of fugar refiners. I was told that as many are exported as bring in annually the fum of fourteen thoufand pounds. The falmon fimeries here are very confiderable, and Salmon likewife bring in vaft fums : they lie on each fide the nver; and are all private property, except what belongs to the Dean and Chapter of Durham, which, m rent and tythe of fifh, brings in 450!. per ann. for all the other fifheries are liable to tythe. The common rents of thofe .are 50!. a year, for which the tenants have as much fhore as ferves to launch out and draw their nets on fhore: the limits of each are flaked , and I obferved that the fifhers never failed going as near as poflible to their neigh- bor's limits. One man goes off in a fmall flat- bottomed boat, fquare at one end, and taking as large a circuit as his net admits, brings it on fhore at the extremity of his boundary, where others a/lift in landing it. The beft fifhery is on the fbuth fide * : very fine falmon trout are often taken here, which come up to fpawn from the fea, and return in the fame manner as the falmon do. The chief import is timber from Norway and the Baltic. Almoft immediately on leaving Berwick^ enter * For a fuller account of this fjfliery, vide Briti/b Zoology, III. 241. to it may be alfo added, that in the middle of the river, not a mile weft of the town, is a large ftone, on which a man is placed, to obferve what is called the reck of the falmon coming up. D 4 SCOT- 40 A T O U R SCOTLAND, in the fhire of Merck * or Mers *. A little way from Berwick^ on the weft, is Halydon hill, famous for the overthrow of the Scots under the regent Douglas? by Edward III. on the attempt of the former to raife the fiege of that town. A cruel acYion blafted the laurels of the conqueror : Seton, the governor, flipulated to furrender in fifteen days, if not relieved jn that time, and gave his fon as hoftage for per- formance. The time elapfed , Seton refufed to execute the agreement, and with a Roman unfeel- ingncfs beheld the unhappy youth hung before the walls. The entrance into Scotland has a very unpro- mifmg look-, for it wanted, for forne miles, the cultivation of the parts more diitant from England : but the borders were necefiarily neglecled -, for, till the acceffion of James VI. and even long after, the national enmity was kept up, and the borderers of both countries difcouraged from improvement, by the barbarous inroads of each nation. This inat- tention to agriculture continued till lately , but on reaching the fmall village of Eytown, the fcene was greatly altered-, the wretched cottages, or rather hovels of the country, were vaniming , good com- fortable houies arife in their ftead ; the lands are inclofing, and yield very good barley, oats, and clover -, the banks are planting: I fpeak in the prefent tenfe , for there is ftill a mixture of the * Boetbius fays, that in his time buftards were found in this county j but they arc now extirpated : the hiitorian calls them Cuflanks. Defc. Scot, xiii, old I N S C O T L A N D. 4* eld negligence left amidft the recent improvements, which look like the works of a new colony in a wretched impoverifhed country. Soon after the country relapfes , no arable land is feen ; but for four or five miles fucceeds the black joylefs heathy moor of Coldingham : hap- pily, this is the whole fpecimen that remains of the many miles, which, not many years ago, were in the fame dreary unprofitable ftate. Near this was the convent of that name immortalized by the he- roifm of its Nuns; who, to preferve themfelves in- violate from the Danes, cut off their lips and nofes ; and thus rendering themfelves objects of horror, were, with their abbefs Ebba *, burnt in the mo- naftery by the difappointed favages. At the end of the moor came at once in fight of the Firth ** of Forth ; a moft extenfive profpect of that great arm of the fea, of the rich country of Eaft Lothian, the Eafs IJle ; and at a diftance, the ifle of May, the coaft of the county of Fife, and the country as far as Montr oje. After going down a long defcent dine at Old Cambus, at a mean houfe, in a poor village , where I believe the Lord of the foil is often execrated by the weary traveller, for not enabling the tenant to furnifh more comfortable accommodations, in Ib confiderable a thoroughfare. * A. D. 870. ** Bodotria of Tacitus, who defcribes the two Firths of Clyde and forth, and the intervening lithraus, with much propriety, ipcaking of the fourth fummer Agricola had pafled in Britain, and how con- convenient he found this narrow tradl for fhutting out the enemy by his fortrefTes, fays, Nam Glota (Firth of Clyde] et Bodotria, diver/i mans oftu per immenfum re-raneos fpecus aperire, eofque multo infuper fimo one- rant, fuffugium biemi, et receptaculum frugibus, quia rigorem fri^orum ejufmodi locis molliunt : et fe qitanJo boflis a&venit aperta popu'atur : Ab- dita autem et deffoffa aut ignorautur, aut eo ipfo falluut, quod qu^renda Jiint. DC Moribus Gennanor, c. 16. Two 60 A T O U R Two or three miles diftant from Newlottle' is DALKEITH. Dalkeitb, a fmall town, adjoining to Dalkeitk-boufe y the feat of the Duke of Buccleugh : originally the property of the Douglajes, and was, when in form of a caftle, of great ftrength ; and, during the time of the Regent Morton's retreat, flyled the Lion's Den. The portraits at Dalkeitb are numerous, and fome good : among others, the Firft Duke of Richmond and his Dutchefs. The Dutchefs of Cleveland. Countefs of Buccleugh, mother to the Dutchefs of Monmoutb, and Lady Egglinton, her fitter. The Dutchefs and her two fons : the Dutchefs of Tork , her hand remarkably fine : the Dutchefs ot Lenox. Mrs. Sufanna Waters, mother of the Duke of Monmoutb, with his picture in her hand. Dutchefs of Cleveland and her fon, an infant , fhe in character of a Madonna : fine. The Duke of Monmcutb, in character of a young St. John. Lord Str afford and his Secretary -, a fmall ftudy of Vandyk. Henry VIII. and Queen Catherine, with the di- vorce in her hand ; two fmall pieces, by Holbein. Anna Bullein, by the fame, drefied in a black gown, large yellow netted fleeves, in a black cap, peaked behind. Lady Jane Gray, with long hair, black and very thick : not handfome , but the virtues and the in- tellectual perfections of that fuffering innocent, more than iupplied the abfence of perfonal charms. A large INSCOTLA-ND. 6l A large fpirited picture of the Duke of Monmouth on horfeback. The fame in armour. All his pic- tures have a handfome likenefs of his father. Dutchefs of Richmond^ with a bow in her hand, by Sir Peter Lely. A fine head of the late Duke of Ormond. A beautiful head of Mary Stewart ; the face a fliarp face, thin and young -, yet has a likenefs to fome others of her pictures done before misfor- tunes had altered her ; her drefs a ftrait gown, open at the top and reaching to her ears, a fmali cap, and fmall ruff, with a red rofe in her hand. In this palace is a room entirely furnimed by Charles II. on occafion of the marriage of Monmouth with the heirefs of the houfe*. At Smeton, another feat of the Duke of Buccleugh, a mile diftant from the firft, is a fine half-length of General Monk looking over his moulder, with his back towards you : he refided long at Dalkeith^ when he commanded in Scotland. Nell Gwinne^ loofely attired. A fine marriage of St. Catherine, by Vandyk. Left Edinburgh, and pafs'd beneath the caftle, JULY 24. whofe height and ftrength, in my then fituation, appeared to great advantage. The country I paft through was well cultivated, the fields large, but moftly inclofed with (lone walls , for hedges are not yet become univerfal in this part of the kingdom: it is not a century fince they were known here. Reach the * Since this, I have been informed that not far from Dalkeith, vtRofflyn, is a moft beautifull and ^entire chapel of gothic archi- redtiire, well worth a viiit from a curious Traveller. 62 A T O U R South-Ferry, a fmall village on the banks of the Firth., which fuddenly is contracted to the breadth of two miles by the jutting out of the land on both fhores ; but almoft inftantly widens, towards the weft, into a fine and extenfive bay. The profpect on each fide is very beautifull ; a rich country, frequently diverfified with towns, villages, caftles, and gentlemen's feats *. There is befide a vaft view up and down the Firth, from its extremity, not remote from Sterling, to its mouth near Mey ifle ; in all, about fixty miles. This Ferry is alfo called ^ueen's-Ferry, being the pafTage much ufed ** by Margaret, queen to Mai- com III. and filler to Edgar Etheling, her refidence being at Dumferline. Crofs over in an excellent paffage-boat ; obfcrve midway the little ifle called Inch-Garvey, with the ruin of a fmall caftle. An arftic gull flew near the boat, purfued by other gulls, as birds of prey are : this is the fpecies that perlecutes and purfues the lefler kinds, till they mute through fear, when it catches up their excre- ments e'er they reach the water : the boatmen, on that account, ftyled it the dirty Aulin. Landed in the (hire of Fife-f, at North Ferry, Granire near which are the great granite quarries, which help to fupply the ftreets of London with paving floncs -, many (hips then waiting near,, in order to take in their lading. The granite lies in great per- pendicular (lacks ; above which, a reddiih earth * Such as Seitb caftle, Dumferline town, Lord JWcm/s, Lord Hopetcun's, Captain Dundafs's. ** Or, as others fay, becaufe (he, her brother and fifter, firft landed there, .after their efcape from William the Conqueror. f Part of the antient Caledonia. filled I N S C O T L A N D. 63 filled with friable micaceous nodules. The granite itfelf is very hard, and is all blafled with gun- powder : the cutting into fhape for paving cofts two (hillings and eight-pence per tun, and the freight to London feven {hillings. The country, as far as Kinrofs, is very fine, con- Ming of gentle rifings ; much corn, eipecially Bear ; but few trees, except about a gentleman's feat, called Blair, where there are great and flou- rilhing plantations. Near the road are the laft col- . lieries in Scotland, except the inconfiderable works in the county of Sutherland. Kinrofs is a fmall town, feated in a large plain, bounded by mountains ; the houles and trees are fo intermixed as to give it an agreeable appearance. It has fome manufactures of linnen and cutlery ware. At this time was a meeting of juftices, on a fingular occafion : a vagrant had been, not long before, ordered to be whipped; but fuch was the point of honor among the common people, that no one could be perfuaded to go to Perth for the executioner, who lived there: to prefs, I may fay, two men for that fervice was the caufe of the meeting ; fo Mr. Bof- well * may rejoice to find the notion of honor pre- vale in as exalted a degree among his own coun- trymen as among the virtuous Cor/icans. Not far from the town is the houfe of Kinrofs, built by the famous architect Sir William Bruce, for his own refidence, and was the firft good houfe in North Britain : it is a large, elegant, but plain building ; the hall is fifty-two feet long, the grounds about it well planted, the fine lake adjacent; fo H$. Carfica. that A T O U R that it is capable of being made as delightfull a place as any in North Britain. Lcugh-Leven, a magnificent piece of water, very broad, but irregularly indented, is about twelve miles in circumference, and its greateft depth about twenty-four fathoms : is finely bounded by moun- tains on one lide ; on the other, by the plain of Kinrofsi and prettily embellifhed with feveral groves, moft fortunately difpofed. Some iflands are dif- perfed in this great expanfe of water j one of which is large enough to feed feveral head of cattle ; but the moft remarkable is that diftinguifhed by the captivity of Mary Stuart, which flands almoft in the middle of the lake. The caftle ftill remains ; confifts of a fquare tower, a fmall yard with two round towers, a chapel, and the ruins of a building, where, it is faid, the unfortunate Princefs was lodged. In the fquare tower is a dungeon with a vaulted room above, over which had been three other fto- ries. Some trees are yet remaining on this little fpot ; probably coeval with Mary^ under whofe fhade me may have fat, expecting her efcape at, length effected by the enamoured Douglas *. This caftle had before been a royal refidence, but not for .captive monarchs ; having been granted from the crown by Robert III. to Douglas^ Laird of Locb- Leven ; but had been originally a feat of the Culdees. * Hiftorians differ in rcfpecT^to the canfe that influenced him to afiitl in his ibvereign's efcape ; feme attribute it to his avarice, and think he was bribed with jewels, referved by Mary ; others, that he was touched by a more generous paffion : the lall opinion is the moft natural, confidering die charms of the Queen and the youth of her deliverer. The INSCOTLAND. 65 The fifh of this lake are Pike, fmall Perch, fine Fiflx& birds- Eels, and moft excellent Trouts , the beft and the reddeft I ever faw ; the largeft about fix pounds in weight. The fifhermen gave me an account of a fpecies they called the Gaily Trout, which are only caught from Qftober to January ; are fplit, faked and dried, for winter provifion : by the defcription, they certainly were our Char, only of a la/ger fi^e than any we have in England, or Wales^ fome being two feet and a half long. The birds that breed on the ifles are Herring Gulls, Pewit Gulls, and great Terns, called here Piftarnes. Lay at a good inn, a fmgle houfe, about half a mile North of Kinrofs. Made an excurfion about feven miles weft, to fee JULY 25. the rumbling brig at Glen-devon, a bridge of one arch, flung over a chafm worn by the river about eighty feet deep, very narrow, and horrible to look down j the bottom, in many parts, is covered with fragments of rocks ; in others, the waters are vifible, gufhing between the ftones with great vio- lence : the fides, in many places, project, and al- moft lock in each other ; trees moot out in various fpots, and contribute to encreaie the gloom of the glen, while the ear is filled with the cawing of daws, the cooing of wood-pigeons, and the impetuous noife of the waters. A mile lower down is the Cawdron Glen : here the river, after a fliort fall, drops on rocks hollowed in a ftrange manner into .large and deep cylindric cavities, open on one fide, or formed into great circular cavities, like cauldrons * ; from whence * In Sweden, and the North of 'Germany, fuch holes as thefe are called Giant\ Pots. KalrfiVoy. Li2i. and Ph. Tranf. abrulg. V. 165. F the 66 A T O U R the name of the place : one in particular has the appearance of a vail brewing veflel -, and the water, by its great agitation, has acquired a yellow fcum, exactly refembling the yefty working of malt liquor. Jufl beneath this the water darts down about thirty feet in form of a great white meet : the rocks below \viden considerably, and their clifty fides are fringed with wood. Beyond is a view of a fine meadowy vale, and the diftant mountains near Sterling. Caftle Two miles north is Caftle Campbell^ feated on a fteep peninfulated rock between vaft mountains, having to the fouth a boundlefs view through a deep glen magged with brufli wood ; for the forefts that once covered the country are now entirely de- ilroyed. Formerly, from its darkfome fituation, this pile was called the caftle of Gloom ; and all the names of the adjacent places were fuitable : it was feated in the parifh of Dolor, was bounded by the glens of care , and warned by the birns of forrow. This caftle, with the whole territory belonging to the family of Argyle^ underwent all the calamities of civil war in 1 645 , for its rival, the Marquis of Montr of e> carried fire and fword through the whole eftate. The caftle was ruined ; and its magnificent reliques exift, as a monument of the horror of the times. No wonder then that the Marquis expe- rienced fo woeful and ignominious a fate, when he fell into the power of fo exafperated a chieftain. Returned to my inn along the foot of the Ochil hills, whofe fides were covered with a fine verdure, and fed great numbers of cattle and fheep. The country below full of oats, and in a very improving ftate : the houfes of the common people decent, but moftty INSCOTLAND. 67 moftly covered with fods , fome were covered both with ftraw and fod. The inhabitants extremely civil, and never failed offering brandy, or whey, when I ftopt to make enquiries at any of their houfes. In the afternoon crofTed a branch of the fame hills, which yielded plenty of oats ; defcended into Straith-earn> a beautifull vale, about thirty miles in straitb-eam. length, full of rich meadows and corn fields, divided by the river Earn^ which ferpentines finely through the middle, falling into the lay, of which there is a fight at the eaft end of the vale. It is prettily diverfified with groves of trees and gentlemen's houfes ; among which, towards the weft end, is Caftle Drummondj the forfeited feat of the Earl of Perth. Caftle Duplin * , the refidence of the Earl of Kinnoul? feated on the north fide of the vale, on the edge of a fteep glen. Only a fmgle tower re- mains of the old caftle, the reft being modernized. The front commands a pleafmg view of the vale -, behind are plantations, extending feveral miles in length -, all flourilh greatly, except thofe of am. I remarked in the woods, fome very large chefnuts, horfe-chefnuts, fpruce and filver firs, cedar and arbor vitas. Broad-leaved laburnum thrives in this country greatly, grows to a great fize, and the wood is ufed in fineering. Fruits fucceed here very indifferently ; even non- Fruit. pareils require a wall to ripen : grapes, figs, and late * Near this place was the battle of Duplin, 1332, between the Evgli/b, under the command of Baliol, and the Scots. The laft were defeated, and fuch a number of the name of Hay (lain, that the family would have been extinct, had not feveral oi ;heir wives been left at home pregnant. F 2 peaches, 68 A t O U R peaches, will not ripen : the winters begin early and end late, and are attended with very high winds. I Labor. was informed that labor is dear here, notwithftand- ing it is only eight-pence a day j the common people not being yet got into a method of working, fo do very little for their wages. Notwithftanding this, improvements are carried on in thefe parts with great fpirit, both in planting and in agriculture. Lord Kinnoul planted laft year not fewer than eighty thou- fand trees, befides Scotch firs ; fo provides future forefts for the benefit of his fucceflbrs, and the em- bellimment of his country. In refpect to agricul- ture, there are difficulties to ftruggle with, for the country is without either coal or lime-ftone ; fo that the lime is brought from the eftate of the Earl of Elgin, near Dumferline, who, I was told, drew a confiderable revenue from the kilns. In Cattle Duplin are fome very good pictures ; a remarkable one of Luther, Bucer, and Catherine the nun, by Georgian! di Ca ft el franco. A fine head of a fecular pried, by 'Titian. St. Nicholas blefling three children. Two of cattle, by Rofa di Tivoli. A head of Spencer. Ruben's head, by himfelf. A fine head of Butler, by Sir Peter Lely. Of the old Countefs of Defmond, by Rembrandt. Mrs. T'ofts, in the character of St. Ca- therine, by Sir Godfrey Kneller. Sir George Haye, of Maginnis, in armour, 1640-, done at Rome by L.Fer- dinand. Haye, Earl of Carlijle, in Charles the Firft's time, young and very handfome, by Cornelius Janfen. The fecond Earl of Kinnoul, by Vandyk. Chancellor Haye, by My tens. A good portrait of Lord Treafurer Oxford, by Richardfon. And a beautifull miniature of Sir John Earnly. Afcended IN SCOTLAND. 69 Afcended the hill of Mowrief; the profpect from TULY 27. thence is the glory of Scotland, and well merits the \ r f t eulogia given it for the variety and richnefs of its views. On the fouth and weft appear StraithertJ, embellimed with the feats of Lord Kinnotd, Lord Rollo, and of feveral other gentlemen, the Carfe, or rich plain of Cowrie, Stormont hills, and the hill of Kinnoul, whofe vafl cliff is remarkable for its beau- tifull pebbles. The inlanders of the Ern, which winds more than any river I at this time had feen, are moft enlivening additions to the fcene. The laft turn it takes forms a fine peninfula prettily planted, and juft beyond it joins the Tay, whofe asftuary lies full in view, the fea clofmg the profpect on this fide. To the north lies the town of Perth, with a view of part of its magnificent bridge ; which, with the fine woods called Perth Parks, the vaft plain of Sfraitb-Tay^the winding of that noble river, its iflands, and the grand boundary, formed by the diftant highlands, finim this matchlefs fcene. The inhabitants of Perth are far from being blind to the beauties of their river ; for with fingular pjeafure they relate the tradition of the Roman army, when it came in fight of the Tay*, burfting into the ex- clamation of, Ecce fiberim. On approaching the town are fo.me pretty walks handfomely planted, and at a fmall cliftance, the remains of fome works of Cromwel^ called Oliver's Mount. PERTH is large, and in general well built ; two PSRT&. of the ftreets are remarkably fine; in fome of the Taus, Tacit ivif. Agr. fcfler 70 A T O U R letter are yet a few wooden houfes in the old ftylc ; but as they decay, the magiftrates prohibit the re- building them in the old way. There is but one parifh, which has two churches, befides meetings for feparatifts, who are very numerous. One church, which belonged to a monaftery, is very antient : not a veftige of the laft is now to be feen ; for the difciples of that rough apoftle Knox made a general defolation of every asdifice that had given fhelter to the worfhippers of the church of Rome : it being one of his maxims, to pull down the nefts, and the rooks would fly away. The flourifhing ftate of Perth is owing to two accidents : the firft, that of numbers of CromweFs wounded officers and foldiers chufing to refide here, after he left the kingdom, who introduced a fpirit of induftry among the people : the other caufe was the long continuance of the Earl of Mar's army here in 1715, which occafioned vafl fums of money being fpent in the place : but this town, as well as all Scotland, dates its profperity from the year 1745, the government of this part of Great Britain having never been fettled till a little after that time. The rebellion was a diforder violent in its operation, but falutary in its effects. Trade. The trade of Perth is confiderable : it exports annually one hundred and fifty thoufand pounds worth of linnen, ten thoufand of wheat and barley, and about the fame in cured falmon. That fifh is taken there in vaft abundance ; three thoufand have been caught in one morning, weighing, one with another, fixteen pounds , the whole capture, forty- eight thoufand pounds. The fimery begins at St. Andrew's INSCOTLAND. 71 Andrew's Day, and ends Auguft 26th, old ftyle. The rents of the fimeries amount to three thoufand pounds per annum. I was informed tbat fmelts come up this river in May and June. There has been in thefe parts a very great fifhery of pearl, got out of the freih-water mufcles. From Pearl the year 1761 to 1764, 10,000 1. worth were fent to London, and fold from los. to il. i6s. per ounce. I was told that a pearl, has been taken there that weighed 33 grains ; but this fimery is at prefent exhaufted, from the avarice of the under- takers : it once extended as far as Lough-Fay. Cowrie Houfe is fhewn to all ftrangers -, formerly the property and refidence of the Earl of Cowrie, whofe tragical end and myfterious confpiracy (if con- fpiracy there was) are ftill frefh in the minds of the people of Perth. At prefent the houfe is occupied by fome companies of artillery. I was fhewn the GowrU con- . . ipiracy. ftaircafe where the unhappy nobleman was killed, the window the frighted monarch James roared out of, and that he efcaped through, when he was faved from the fury of the populace, by Baily Roy, a friend of Cowrie's, who was extremely beloved in the town. From the little traditions preferved in the palace, it Ceems as if Cowrie had not the left intent of mur- thering the King : on the day his Majefty came to Perth, the Earl was engaged to a wedding-dinner with the Dean of Guild : when the account of the king's defign reached him he changed color, on being taken fo unprovided , but the Dean forced him to accept the nuptial feaft, which was lent over to the Earl's houfe, F 4 When 72 A T O U R When the king fled he pafied by the feat of Sir William Moncrief, near Ern-bridge^ who happening to be walking out at that time, heard from the mouth of his intrepid Majefty the whole relation j but the Knight found it fo marvellous and fo dif- jointed, as plainly to tell the King, that if it was a true ftory^ it was a "very ft range one. Cowrie was a moft accomplilhed gentleman : after he had finifhed his ftudies he held the Pro- feflbr of Philofophy's chair for two years, in one of the Italian univerfities. Crofs the Fay on a temporary bridge ; the ftone bridge, which is to confift of nine arches, being at this time unfinifhed , the largeft arch is feventy-fix feet wide ; when complete, it promifes to be a moft magnificent flruclure. The river here is very vio- lent, and admits of fcarce any navigation above ; but mips of eighty or ninety tuns come as far as the town. Seme. Scone lies about a mile and half higher up, on the eaft bank of the river. There was once here an abby of great antiquity *, which was burnt by the reforming zealots of Dundee. The prefent palace was begun by Earl Cowrie -, but, on his death, being granted by James VI. to his favorite, SJT David Murray, of Gofpatrie, was completed by him j who, in gratitude to the king, has, in feveral parts of the houfe, put up the royal arms. The houle is built round two courts ; the dining-room is large and handfome, has an antient but magnificent chimney-piece, the king's arms, with this motto, Nobis hy, was. driven by rain into a fimerman's hut, who enter- tained me with an account of his bufmefs : faid he paid ten pounds per ann. for the liberty of two or three miles of the river j fold the firft rim of the feafon at three-pence a pound ; after that, got three millings per fifh. The houfes in thefe parts began to be covered with broom, which lafls three or four years : their infides mean, and very fcantily furnifhed; but the owners civil, fenfible, and of the quickefl apprehenfions. The flrait now widens into a vale plentifull in oats, barley and flax, and well peopled : qn the right is the junction of the 'fay and the Tumel : the channels of thefe rivers are wide, full of gravel, the mark of their devaflation during floods. Due north is the road to Blair and Fort 4uguftus^ through the noted pafs of Killicrankie -, turn to the left ; ride oppofite to Co/lie Menzies : reach Tay- i the feat of the Earl of Breadalbane. 'Taymoutb IN SCOT LAND. 77 Taymouth * lies in a vale fcarce a mile broad, JULY 29, &c. very fertile, bounded on each fide by high moun- aym tains finely planted. Thofe on the fouth are co- vered with trees, or with corn fields, far up their fides. The hills on the north are planted with pines and other trees, and vaftly deep, and have a very alpine look j but particularly relemble the great (lope oppofite the grande Chartreufe in Dau- phine. His Lordfhip's policy ** furrounds the houfe, which (lands in the park, and is one of the few in which fallow deer are feen. The ground is in remarkable fine order, owing to his Lordihip's afiiduity in clearing it from ftones, with which it was once covered. A Blafter was in conftant employ to blaft the great ftones with gun- powder ; for, by reafon of their fize, there was no other method of removing them. The Berceau walk is very magnificent, compofed Walks. of great trees, forming a fine gotbic arch -, and pro- bably that fpecies of architecture owed its origin to fuch vaulted fhades. The walk on the bank of the Toy is fifty feet wide, and two and twenty hundred yards long ; but is to be continued as far as the junction of the T'ay and the Lion, which is about as far more. The firft runs on the fides of the walk with great rapidity, is clear, but not color- lefs, for its pellucidnefs is like that of brown cryftal ; as is the cafe with mod of the rivers of Scotland, which receive their tinge from the bogs. * Its name, in old -maps, is Balloch; i. e. the mouth of the loch. ** This word here fignifies improvements, ordemefne: when ufcd by a merchant, or tradelman, fignjfies their warehoufes, fhops, and the like. The S A T O U R The Toy has here a wooden bridge two hundred feet long, leading to a white feat on the fide of the oppofite hill, commanding a fine view up and down Strait h-Tay* The rich meadows beneath, the wind- ing of the river, the beginning of Lough-fay, the difcharge of the river out of it, the neat village and church of Kenmor, form a moft pleafing and mag- nificent profpedt. Lough-fay. The view from the temple of Venus is that of the lake, with a nearer fight of the church and village, and the difcharge of the river. The lake is about a mile broad, and about fifteen long> bounded on each fide by lofty mountains , makes three great bends, which adds to its beauty. Thofe on the fouth are well planted, and finely cultivated high up ; interfperfed v\ ith the habitations of the Highlanders, not fingly, but in fmall groupes, as if they loved ibciety or clanfhip : they are very fmall, mean, and without windows or chimnies, and are the difgrace of North Britain, as its lakes and rivers are its glory. Lough-fay is, in many places, a hundred fathoms deep, and within as many yards of the fhorc, fifty-four. Till the prefent year, this lake was fuppofed to be as incapable of freezing as Lough-Nefs, Lough- Earn, and Lough-Each , tho* Lough-Raynac, and even Lough-Fine, an arm of the fea, often does. But in March lad, fo rigorous and uncommon was the cold, that about the 2oth of that month this vaft body of water was frozen over, in one part, from fide to fide, in the fpace of one night ; and fo ftrong was the ice, as greatly to damage a boat which was caught in it. Lough' IN SCOTLAND. 79 Lough-Toy abounds with Pike, Perch, Eels, Sal- mon and Trout ; of the laft, fome have been taken that weighed above thirty pounds. Of thefe fpe- cies, the Highlanders abhor Eels, and alfo Lam- pries, fancying, from the form, that they are too nearly related to Serpents *. The north fide is lefs wooded, but more culti- vated. The vaft hill of Laurs, with beds of fnow on it, through great part of the year, rifes above the reft, and the ftill loftier mountain of Eenmor clofes the view far beyond the end of the lake. All this country abounds with game, fuch as Grous, Ptarmigans**, Stags, and a peculiar fpecies of Hare, which is found only on the fummits of the White Hare, higheft hills, and never mixes with the common kind, which is frequent enough in the vales f . This fpecies is grey in fummer, white in winter ; is fmaller than the brown Hare, and more delicate meat. The Ptarmigans inhabit the very fummits of the Ptarmigan. higheft mountains, amidft the rocks, perching among the grey ftones, and during fummer are fcarce to be diftinguilhed from them, by reafon of their color. They feldom take long flights, but fly about like pigeons ; are filly birds, and fo tame as to fuffer a ftone to be flung at them without rifing. It is not necefTary to have a dog to find them. They tafte fo like a Grons, as to be fcarce * I was informed, that at the head of the lake are the remains of an old caftle, called Finlarig, belonging to Lord Breadalbaae, and of a park finely wooded with old oaks, chefnuts, and other timber. ** Br. Zoolfilluflr. 21. tab. xiii. f The fame, /. 40. tab. xlvii. * diftinguifhable. A T O U R diftinguifhable. During winter, their plumage, ex- cept a few feathers in the tail, are of a pure white, the color of the fnow, in which they bury them- felves in heaps, as a protection from the rigorous air. Birds. Roy/Ion Crows, called here Hooded Crows, and in the Erfe y Feanagh, are very common, and refide here the whole year. They breed in the hills, in all forts of trees -, lay fix eggs ; have a mriller note than the common fort-, are much more mifchievous; pick out the eyes of lambs, and even of horfes, when engaged in bogs ; but, for want of other food, will eat cranberries, and other mountain berries. Ring Ouzels breed among the hills, and in au- tumn defcend in flocks to feed on the berries of the wicken trees. Sea Eagles breed in ruined towers, but quit the country in winter ; the black Eagles continue there the whole year. It is very difficult to leave the environs of this delightfull place : and, before I go within doors, I muft recall to mind the fine winding walks on the fouth fide of the hills, the great beech fixteen feet in girth, the pifturefque birch with its long ftream- ing branches, the hermitage, the great cataracts adjacent, and the darkfome chafm beneath. I muft enjoy over again the view of the fine reach of the Tay> and its union with the broad water of the Lion : I muft iiep down to view the druidical circles of ftones, called in the Erfc, Tibberd ; and laftly, I muft vifit 'Toy-bridge, and, as far as my pen can contribute, extend the fame of our military coun- trymen, I N S C O T L A N D. 81 trymen, who, among other works worthy of the Romans? founded this bridge, and left its hiftory infcribed in thefe terms : Mirare viam hanc militarem Ultra Romanes terminos M. Pafluum CCL. hac iliac extenfam , Tefquis et paludibus infultantem per Montes rupefque patefactam et indignanti TAVO ut cernis inftratum, Opus hoc arduum fua folertia Et decennali militum opera, A. JEr. X njE 1733. Pofuit G. WADE Copiarum in SCOTIA Praefcdlus. Ecce quantum valeant Regis GEORGII II. Aufpicia. Taymouth is a large houfe, a caftle modernized. The moft remarkable part of its furniture is the works of the famous Jamefon *, the Scotch Vandyk^ an eleve of this family. That fingular performance of his, the -genealogical picture, is in good pre- fervation. Sir Duncan Campbell^ Laird of Locbon, is placed recumbent at the foot of a tree, with a "branch ; on the right is a fingle head of his eldeft ,fon, the chief of the Argyle family ; but on the * Son of an architect at Aberdeen ; ftudied under Rubfns, at Antwerp. Ckarlesl. fat to him, and prefented him with a dia- mond j^ng. He always drew himfelf with his hat on. His prices were 20!. Scots, or il. 133. 4d. Englijb, fer head: was born m 1586; died at Edinburgh., 1644. For a further account, confult Mr. Ifdpilt't Anecdotes of Painting/ G various 82 A T O U R various ramifications, are the names of his defcen- dents, and along the body of the tree are nine fmall heads, in oval frames, with the names on the margins, all done with great neatnefs : the fecond fon was firft of the houfe of Ereadalbane^ which branched from the other about four hundred years ago. In a corner is infcribed, The Geneologie of the loufe of Glenorquhie Quhairof is defcendit Jundrie nobil & worthie houfes. Jamefon faciebat. 1635. Its fize is eight feet by five. In the fame room are about twenty heads of perfons of the family ; among others, that of a lady, fo very ugly, that a wag, on feeing it, with lifted hands pronounced, that me was fearfully and wonderfully made- There are in the fame houfe feveral heads by Jamefon ; but many of them unfortunately fpoiled in the mending. In the library is a fmall book, called, from the binding, the Hack book, with fome beautifull draw- ings in it, on vellum, of the Breadalbane family, in- water-colors. In the firft page is old Sir Duncan 9 between two other figures ; then follow feveral chiefs of the family, among whom is Sir Co/in, Knight of Rhodes, who died 1480, aged 80. At the end is a manufcnpt hiftory of the family, end- ing, I think, in 1633. JULY 30. Went to divine fervice at Kinmore * church, which, with the village, was re-built, in the neateft manner, by the prefent Lord Breadalbane : they ftand beautifully on a fmall headland, projecting into the lake. His Lordfhip permits the inhabi- tants to live rent-free, on condition they exercife . fome trade, and keep their houfes clean : fo that, * Or the Great' Head. by , * I N S C O T L A N D. S$ by thefe terms, he not only faves the expence of lending, on every trifling occafion, to Perth or Crief, but has got fome as good workmen, in com- mon trades, as any in his Majt-fty's dominions. The congregation was numerous, decent, attentive, ftill; well and neatly clad, and not a ragged or flovenly perfon among them. There were two fer- vices, one in Englijh^ the other in Erfe. After the firft, numbers of people, of both fexes, went out of church, and feating themfelves in the church- . yard, made, in their motly habits, a gay and pic- tureique appearance. The devotion of the common Higlltad con people, on the uiual days of worihip, is as much firesa to be admired, as their conduct at the facrament is to be cenfured. It is celebrated but once in a year * ; ' when there are, in fome places, three thoufand com- municants, and as many idle fpectators. Of the firft, as many as poflible crowd each fide of a long table, and the, elements are rudely ihoven from one to another ; and in fome places, before the day is at an end, fighting and other indecencies enfue. It is often made a feafon for debauchery ; fo, to this day, Jack cannot be perfuaded to eat his meat like a chriftian }-. Every Sunday a collection is made for the fick or neceflitous ; for poor's rates are unknown in every country parim in Scotland. Notwithstanding the common people are but juft rouzed from their na- tive indolence, very few beggars are feen in North Britain: either they are full mailers of the leffon of being content with a very little -, or, what is more probable, they are poflefied of a fpirit that will * Formerly the facrament was admlniftcred but once in two years, t Tale of a Tub. G 2 llruggle A T O U R ftniggle hard v, ';!. neceflity before it will bend to> the alking of alms. Vifited a pretty little ifland in L0h-Tay tufted with trees, and not far from the ihore : on it are the rains of a priory dependent on that at Scone-, found- ed in 1 1 22, by Alexander the Firft, in which were cfepofited the remains of his Queen Sjbilla^ natural daughter to Henry I. it was founded by Alexander to have the prayers of the Monks for the repofe of his foul, and that of his royal confort*. To this ifland the Campbells retreated, during the fuccefles of the Marquifs of Mont r of e, where they defended themselves againfl that hero, which was one caufe of his violent reientment againfl the whole name. Rode to Glen-lion j weir by the fide of the river -f- that gives name ro it. It has now loft its antient title of !)#;>, or Black, given it on account of a. great battle between the Mackays and the- Mac- gregors -, after which, the conquerors are laid to- have ftained the water with red* by wafhing in it their bloody fwords and ipears.. On the right is a rocky hill, called Sbi-baUen, or the Paps. Enter fen-lion- -through a ftrait pafs : the vaJe is narrow, but fertile ; the barks of the river fteep, rocky, and wooded ; through which appear the rapid water of the Lion. On the north is a round fortrefs, on the top of the hill -, to which, in old times, the natives, retreated, on any invafion,. A little farther, on a plain, is a {mall Roman camp J, called by the High- * As appears from a grant made by that Monarch of the ifle in lock-'Tay, Ut Ecclejia DEI ibi pro me et pro Anima SYBIL I. A: Rfginaf icbi tSefunl. 28. linnen A T O U R linnen wrapper, the friends lay on the breail of the deceafed a wooden platter, containing a fmall quan- tity of fait and earth, feparate and unmixed ; the fearth, an emblem of the corruptible body ; the fait, an emblem of the immortal fpirit. All fire is ex- tinguifhed where a corps is kept ; and it is reckoned fo ominous, for a dog or cat to pafs over it, that the poor animal is killed without mercy. The Late-wake is a ceremony ufed at funerals : the evening after the death of any perfon, the rela- tions and friends of the deceafed meet at the houfe, attended by bagpipe or fiddle -, the neareft of kin, be it wife, fon, or daughter, opens a melancholy ball, dancing and greeting ; /. e, crying violently at the fame time , and this continues till day-light ; but with fuch gambols and frolicks, among the younger part of the company, that the lofs which occafioned them is often more than fupplied by the confequences of that night. If the corps remains unburied for two nights the fame rites are renewed. Thus, &7/&/<2#-like, they rejoice at the deliverance of their friends out of this life of mifery. Coranich. The Corariicb^ or finging at funerals, is ftill in ufe in fome places : the fongs are generally in praife of the deceafed ; or a recital of the valiant deeds of him, or anceftors. I had not the fortune to be prefent at any in North Britain, but formerly af- fifted at one in the fonth of Ireland^ where it was performed in the fullnefs of horror. The cries arc called by the Irifo the 'Ulogobne and Huilulu, two words extremely exprefiive of the found uttered on thefe occafions, and being of Celtic flock, Etymo- logifls would fwear to be the origin of the c^Auy^ of IN -SCOTLAND. of the Greeks^ and Ululatus of the Latins. Virgil is very fond of ufmg the laft, whenever any of his females are diftreffed j as are others of the Roman Poets, and generally on occafions fimilar to this. It was my fortune to arrive at a certain town in Kerry, at the time that a perfon of fome diftinction departed this life : my curioficy led me to the houfe, where the funeral feemed conducted in the pureft clafiical form. Quodcunque afpicerem luRus gemitufque fonabant^ Formaque non taciti funeris intus erat. In fhort, the condamatio was fet up by the friends in the fame manner as Virgil defcribes that confe- quential of D/Wo's death. Lamentis gemituque et famines ululatu tfefta fremunt. Immediately after this followed another ceremony, fully defcribed by Cambden, in his account of the manners of the antient Irijh ; the earneft expoftu- lations and reproaches given to the deceafed, for quitting this world, where fhe enjoyed fo many bleffings, fo good a hufband, fuch fine children. This cuftom is of great antiquity, for Euryalus*s mother makes the fame pathetic addrefs to her dead fon. 'Tune ilia fencR* Sera me* requies ? fotuifti relinqttere folam Cmdelis ? But when the time approached for carrying out the corps the cry was redoubled. Tremutis ululatibus #tbera complent, A numerous band of females waiting in the outer court, to attend the herfe, and to pay (in chorus) the 94 A T O U R the laft tribute of their voices. The habit of this forrowing train, and the neglect 'of their perfons, were admirably fuited to the occafion : their robes were black, and flowing, refembling the antient Palla ; their hair long, and difheveled : I might fay, Vidi egomet mgra fuccinffiam vadere palla Canidiam ; pedibus nudis^ paffoque capillo Cum Sagana mojore ululantem. Among thefe mourners were difperfed the females, who fung the praifes of the deceafed, and were in the place of the Mulieres Pr ' <{ pikcs > IN SCOTLAND. 101 " pikes, eels, and all other kind of delicate fimes " that could be gotten in frefh waters ; and all " ready for the banket. Syne were there proper "ftewards, cunning baxters, excellent cooks and " potingars, with confections and drugs for their " deferts ; and the halls and chambers were pre- " pared with coftly bedding, veflel and napery, " according for a king, fo that he wanted none of " his orders more than he had been at home in his " own palace. The King remained in this wilder- " nefs, at the hunting, the fpace of three days and " three nights, and his company, as I have fhewn. " I heard men fay, it coft the Earl of Athole, every ** day, in expences, a thoufand pounds." But hunting meetings, among the great men, were often the preludes to rebellion , for under that pretence they collected great bodies of men without iuipicion, which at length occafioned an act of par- lement prohibiting fiich dangerous aflemblies. Set out for the county of Aberdeen ; ride eaftward AUG.J. over a hill into Glen-Tilt, famous in old times for producing the moft hardy warriors -, is a narrow glen, feveral miles in length, bounded on each fide by mountains of an amazing height ; on the fouth is the great hill of Ben y glo, whofe bale is thirty- five miles in circumference, and whofe fummir towers far above the others. The fides of many of theie mountains are covered with fine verdure, and are excellent fheep-walk,s ; but entirely woodlefs. The road is the moft dangerous and the moft hor- rible I ever travelled ; a narrow path, fo rugged that our hories often were obliged to crofs their H 3 ten-* 102 A T OUR legs, in order to pick a fecure place for their feet ; while, at a con deferable and precipitous depth be- neath, roared a black torrent, rolling through abed of rock, folid in every part but where the fih had worn its antient way. Salmon force their paflage even as high as this dreary ftream, in fpite of the diftance from the fea, and the difficulties they have to encounter. .Afcend afteep hill, on the top of which we re- SheeKns. frefhed ourfdves with feme goats whey, at a SleeUn^ or, as it is fcmetimes called, Arrie*, and Bctbay^a. dairy-houfe, where the Highland Ihephcrds, or gra- ziers, live during fummer with their herds and flocks, and during that feafon mak butter and cheefe. Their whole furniture confifts of a few- horn fpoons, their milking utenfils, a couch formed of fbds to lie on, and a rug to cover them. Their food oat-cakes, butter or cheefe, and often the coagulated blood of their cattle fpread on their bannocks. Their drink milk, whey, and fome- times, by way of indulgence, whifky. Such dairy- houfes are common to moft mountainous countries : thofe in Waks are called Vottys, or Summer-houfes ; thofc on the Swift Al-ps^ Sennes. Dined on the fide of Locb-Tih, a fmall piece of water, fwarming with Trouts. Continued our jour- ney over a wild, black, moory, melancholy tract. Reached Brae-mar + , the country almoft inftantly . changed, and in lieu of dreary wades, a rich vale, plenteous in corn and grafs, fucceeded. Grofs the Dee near its" head, which, from an infignificant * /. e. a houfc made of turf. t Brae, fignifies the ftecp face of any hill. dream, I N S C O T L A N D. 103 ftream, in the courfe of a very few miles, increafes to the fize of a great river, from the influx of num- bers of other waters. The rocks of Brae-mar, on Bras-mar. the eaft, are exceedingly romantic, finely wooded with pine. The clifts are very lofty, and their front moft rugged and broken, with vaft pines growing out of their fiflures. This trad abounding with game, was, in old times, the annual refort of numbers of nobility, who aflembled here to pafs a month or two in the amufements of the chace. Their huntings refem- fcled campaigns ; they lived in temporary cottages, called Lonquhards, were all drefied in an uniform habit conformable to that of the country, and pafTed their time with jollity and good chear, moft admirably defcribed by John Taylor , the water poet, who, in 1618, made there his PennileJJe Pilgrimage, p. 135, and defcribes the rural luxury with all the glee of a Sancho Panca, " I thank my good Lord Erjkin, (fays the Poet) " hee commanded that I mould alwayes bee lodged " in his lodging, the kitchen being alwayes on the " fide of a banke, many kettles and pots boyling, " and many fpits turning and winding, with great " variety of cheere : as venifon bak'd, fodden, rod " and ftu'de be^fe, mutton, goates, kid, hares, " frem falmon, pidgeons, hens, capons, chickens, " partridge, moore-coots, heath-cocks, caperkellies, " and termagants ; good ale, facke, white and cla- " ret, tent (or Allegant) and moft potent aqua- * vit, barraux, barils, flacons et bouteiiles : ' lefquefles doiuent eft re pleines de bon vin d'Arbois, . ie Beaume, de Gram: luy eltant defcendu du cheval, las metra 1'eau, ou bien lea pourra faire refroidir avec du (Janfre : apfes il ellendni la nappe fur la verdure. Ce fait, le cuiiinier s'eji viendra charge de plulieurs boas barnois de gueule, comme jambons", iangues de boeuf fumees, groins, etoreinesde Cbaloce et de ' refraifchir ' cuilinier ' comme . * pourceau, cervelats, efchinoes, pieces de bosuf de Saifoh, car- * ponnades, jambons de Mayence, paitez, longes de_ veau iroides ' couuertes dc poudrc blanche, et autrcs menus fuffrages pour * reniplir le boudin lequel il metra fur la nappe. ' Lors le Roy ou le Seigneur avec ceux de fa table eftrendront ' leurs manteaux fur 1'herbe, et fe couchcront de colte defllis, 4 beuuans, mangeans, rians et faifans grand chere ;' and that no- thing might be wanting to render the entertainment of fuch a fet of merry men quite complete, honeft "Jacques adds, ' et s'il y a ' qaelque femme de reputation en ce pays qui faife plaifir aux * compagnons, elie doit etre allegike, et fcs paffages et remuemens ' de fclfcs, attendant le rapport a, venir.' But when the great man fallies out to the chace of foxes an4 badgers, he icems not to leave fo important an affair to chance ; fo lets off thus amply provided in his triumphal car, ' Le Seig- neur, (fays Foutlloux] doit avoir fa petite charrctte, la ou il fera dedans, avec la Fiilette aagee de feize a dix fept ans, laquelle luy frottera la tcftc par Ies chemins. Toutes Ies chevilles et paux de la charrette doiiicnt eftre garnis de fiaccons et bouteiiles, et doit avoir au bout de la charrette un coffre de bois, plein de coqs-d'inde froids, jambons, Iangues de Bceufs et autre bons harnois de geule., Et fi c'eft en temps d'hi-'er, il pourra faire porter for. petit pavilion, et faire du feu dedans pour fe chaurFer, ou bien donn^er un coup en robbe a la nymphe.' p. 35. 75. " compafTe, IN SCOTLAND. 105 tc compafle, they doe bring or chafe in the deer in " many heards (two, three, or four hundred in a " heard) to fuch or fuch a place, as the noblemen " fliall appoint them ; then when day is come, the " lords and gentlemen of their companies doe ride " or go to the faid places, fometimes wading up to " the middles through bournes and rivers j and " then they being come to the place, doe lye down " on the ground till thofe forefaid fcouts, which " are called the 'Tinckhell^ do bring down the deer-, " but, as the proverb fays of a bad cooke, fo thefe " Tinckhell men doe lick their own ringers ; for, " befides their bowes and arrows which they carry . " with them, wee can heare now and then a hargue- " bufe, or a mufquet, goe off, which doe feldom " difcharge in vaine : then after we had ftayed "three houres, or thereabouts, we might perceive " the deer appeare on the hills round about us, " (their heads making a mew like a wood) which " being followed clofe by the finckhell) are chafed " down into the valley where wee lay ; then all the. " valley on each fide being way-laid with a hun- " dred couple of ftrong Irifh grey-hounds, they arc " let loofe, as occafion ferves, upon the heard of " deere, that with dogs, gunnes, arrowes, durks *' and daggers, in the fpace of two houres fourfcore " fat deere were flaine, which after are difpofcd of " fome one. way and fome another, twenty or thirty " miles, and more than enough left for us to make " merry withall at our rendevouze. Being come " to our lodgings, there Was fuch baking, boyling, " rotting and dewing, as if Cook Ruffian had been u there to have fcalded the Devill in m^s feathers." But to proceed. Pafs io6 A T O U R Pafs by the caftle of Brae -mar, a fquare tower, built about a hundred and fifty years ago, to curb the difcontented chieftains , but at prefent unnecef- farily garrifoned by a company of foot, being rented by the Government from Mr. Farqubarfon, of Invercauld, whofe houfe I reached in lefs than half an hour. Invercauld is feated in the centre of the Grampian hills, ia a fertile vale, warned by the Dee, a large and rapid river : nothing can be more beautifull than the different views from the feveral parts of it. On the northern entrance, immenfe ragged and broken crags bound one fide of the profpecl: ; over whofe grey fides and fummits is fcattered the melan- choly green of the picturefque pine, which grows out of the naked rock, where one would think na- ture would have denied vegetation. A little lower down is the caftle above-men- tioned , formerly a necefTary curb on the little kings of the country -, but at prefent ferves fcarce any real purpofe, but to adorn the landfcape. The views from the fkirts of the plain, near Inver- co.itld^ are very great ; the hills that immediately bound it are cloathed with trees, particularly with birch, whofe long and pendent boughs, waving a vaft height above the head, furpafs the beauties of the weeping willow. The fouthern extremity is pre-eminently magni- ficent , the mountains form there a vaft theatre, the bofom of which is covered with extenfive forefts of pines : above, the trees grow fcarcer and fcarcer, and then feem only to fprinkle the furface j after which riLft ' . "k> > . 4013 I 1 N S C O T L A N D. 107 which vegetation ceafes, and naked fummits * of a furprifing height fucceed, many of them topped with perpetual fnow ; and, as a fine contraft to the fcene, the great cataract of Garval-bourn-, which feems at a diftance to divide the whole, foams amidft the dark foreft, rufhing from rock to rock, to a vaft diftance. Some of thefe hills are fuppofed to be the higheft part of Great Britain : their height has not yet been taken, but the conjecture is made from the great defc.ent of the Dee, which runs from Brae-mar -f to ' the fea, above feventy miles, with a moft rapid courfe. Rode to take a nearer view of the environs; crofled the Dee on a good ftone-bridge, built by the Government, and entered on excellent roads into a magnificent foreft of pines of many miles Pine Foreft. extent. Some of the trees are of a vaft fize ; I mea- fured feveral that were ten, eleven, and even twelve feet in circumference, and near fixty feet high, forming a moft beautifull column, with a fine ver- dant capital. Thefe trees are of a great age, having, as is fuppofed, feen two centuries. The value of thefe trees is confiderable ; Mr. Farqubarfon in- formed me, that by fawing and retailing them, he has got for eight hundred trees five-and-twenty millings each : they are fawed in an adjacent faw- mill, into plank ten feet long, eleven inches broad, and three thick, and fold for two fhillings apiece. * The higheft is called Ben y bourd, under which is a fmall lough, which I was told had ice the latter end of July. f The moft diftant from the fea of any place in North Britain* Near A T O U R Near this antient forefl is another, confiding of fmaller trees, ajmoft as high, but very (lender ; one grows in a fmgular manner out of the top of a great Hone, and notwithftanding it feems to have no other nourifhment than what it gets from the dews, is above thirty feet high. The profpect above thefe forefts is veiy extraor- dinary j adiftant view of hills over a furface of ver- dant pyramids of pines. Stags. This whole tract abounds with game : the Stags at this time were ranging in the mountains ; but Rocs. tne little Roebucks * were perpetually bounding before us ; and the black game often fprung under Birds, our feet* The tops of the hills fwarmed with Grous and Ylarmigam. Green Plovers, Whimbrels, and Snow-flecks -f , breed here : the laft aficmble in great flocks during winter, and collect Ib cloftly in their eddying flight as to give the fportfman oppor- tunity of killing numbers at a Ihot. Eagles J, Peregrine Falcons, and Golhawks, breed here : the Falcons in rocks, the Gofhawks in trees : the laft purfues its prey an end, and dafhes through every thing in purfuit-, but if it mifies its quarry ceafes after two or three hundred yards flight. Thefe birds are profcribed ; half a crown is given for an eagle, a milling for a hawk, or hooded crow. Foxes are in thefe parts very ravenous, feeding on roes, fheep, and even fhe goats. * Thefc animals are reared with great difficulty; even when taken young, eight out often generally die. f Br. Zoo/, illujlr. 17. tab. xi. j The Ring_-tail Eagle, called here the Black Eagle. I fufgeft, from the defcription, that the Dotrcl breeds here. I heard alib of a bird, called here Snatacb na cuirn, but could-not procure it. Rooks IN SCOTLAND. 109 Rooks vifit thefe vales in autumn, to feed on the different fort of berries ; but neither winter nor breed here. I faw flying in the forefts the greater Bulfinch of Mr. Edwards ) tab. 123, 1 24. the Loxia enudeator of Linntfus^ whole food' 'is the feed of pine cones -, a bird common to the north of Europe and America. On our return pafled under fome high clifts, with large~ woods of birch intermixed. This tree is ufed Birch Woods. for all forts of implements of hufbandry, roofing of fmall houfes, wheels, fuel; the Highlanders alfo tan their own leather with the bark -, and a great deal of excellent wine is extracted from the live tree. Obferved among thefe rocks a fort of pro- jecting fhelf, on which had been a hut, acceffible only by the help of fome thongs faflened by fome very expert climbers, to which the family got, in time of danger, in former days, with their moft valuable moveables. The houfes of the common people in thefe parts Cottages. are fhocking to humanity, formed of loofe itones, and covered with clods, which they call devijh^ or with heath, broom, or branches of fir : they look, at a diftance, like fo many black mole-hills. The inhabitants live very poorly, on oatmeal, barley- cakes, and potatoes , their drink whifky fweetened with honey. The men are thin, but ftrong; idle and lazy, except employed in the chace, or any thing that looks like amufement ; are content with their hard fare, and will not exert themfelves far- ther than to get what they deem neceflaries. The women are more induftrious, fpin their own huf- bands cloaths, and get money by knitting (lockings, the no A T O U R the great trade of the county. The common wo- men are in general moft remarkably plain, and foon acquire an old look, and by being much expofed to the weather "without hats, fuch a grin, and contraction of the mufcles, as heightens greatly their natural hardnefs of features : I never faw fo much plainnefs among the lower rank of females : but the ne plus ultra of hard features is not found till you arrive among the nm-women of Aberdeen. Tenants pay their rent generally in this country in money, except what they pay in poultry, which is done to promote the breed, as the gentry are fo remote from any market. Thofe that rent a mill pay a hog or two , an animal fo detefted by the Highlanders, that very few can be prevaled on to tafte it, in any fhape. Labor is here very cheap, the ufual pay being fifty millings a year, and two pecks of oatmeal a week. AUG. 6. Purfued my journey eaft, along a beautifull road by the river fide, in fight of the pine forefts. The vale now grows narrow, and is filled with woods of birch and alder. Saw on the road-fide the feats of gentlemen high built, and once defenfible. The pcafants cultivate their little land with great care to the very edge of the ftony hills. All the way are vaft maflfes of granite, the fame which is called in Cornwall, Moor-ftone. The Glen contracts, and the mountains approach each other. Quit the Highlands y pafling between Pafs of BoBitir. two 8 reat roc ks, called the Pafs of Eollit.ir, a very narrow itrait, whole, bottom is covered with the tremendous ruins -of -the precipices that bound the 8 , road. I was informed, that here the wind rages- with IN SCOTLAND. with great fury during winter, and catching up the fnow in eddies, whirls it about with fuch impe- tuofity, as makes it dangerous for man or beaft to be out at that time. Rain alfo pours down fome- times in deluges, and carries with it ftone and gravel from the hills in fuch quantity, that I have feen thefe fpates^ as they are called, lie crofs the roads, as the aveknches* or fnow-falls, do thofe of the Alps. In many parts of the Highlands were bofpitia for the reception of travellers, called by the Scotch, Spittles* or hofpitals : the fame were ufual in IVales^ where they are ftyled Tfpitty ; and, in both places, were maintained by the religious houfes : as fimilar Afylums are to this day fup- pprted, in many parts of the Alps. This pafs is the eaftern entrance into the High- lands. The country now affumes a new face : the hills grow lefs , but the land more barren, and is chiefly covered with heath and rock. The edges of .the Dee are cultivated, but the reft only in patches, among which is generally a groupe of fmall houfes. There is alfo a change of trees, oak being the principal wood, but not much of that, Refrefhed my horfes at a hamlet called Tullocb> and looking weft, faw the great mountain Lagbin y gair* which is always covered with fnow. Obferved feveral vaft plantations of pines, planted by gentlemen near their feats : fuch a laud- able fpirit prevails, in this refpefl, that in another half-century it never mail be faid, that to ipy the nakednefs of the land are you come. Dine at the little village of Kincaird. Here- abouts the common people cultivate a great deal of cabbage. . A T O U R cabbage. The oat-fields are inclofed with rude low O mounds of (tone." Lay at a mean houfe at Banchorie. The country, from Bcllitir to this place, dull, unlefs where va- ried with the windings of the river, or with the plantations. AUG. 7. The nearer to Aberdeen, the lower the country grows, and the greater quantity of corn : in general, oats and barley ; for there is very little wheat fown > in thefe parts. Reach ABERDEEN. ABERDEEN, a fine city, lying on a fmall bay formed by the Dec *, deep enough for (hips of two hundred tuns. The town is about two miles in circumference, and contains thirteen thoufand fouls, and about three thoufand in the fuburbs. It once enjoyed a good (hare of the tobacco trade, but was at length forced to refign it to Glajgow, which was fo much more conveniently fituated for it. At pre- lent, its imports are from the Baltic, and a few merchants trade to the We 'ft -Indies and North Stocking America. Its exports are (lockings, thread, fal- trade. mon> anc } oat-meal : the firft is a mod important article, as appears by the following date of it. For this manufacture, 20,800 pounds worth of wool is annually imported, and 1600 pounds worth of oil. Of this wool is annually made 69,333 dozen pairs" of ftoc kings, worth, at an average, il. i cs. j>er dozen. Thefe are made by the country people, in almoil all parts of this great county, who get 45. per dozen for fpinning, and IAS. per * v - ^\ H* dozen for knitting , fo that there is annually paid * The bmipe-Hcs about two miles foiith of the to\vn, and con- Ms-o:~ i'cvcn ueel a dif- A Bel-tein, ferent from that before-mentioned. A crofs is cut on fome fticks, which is dipped in pottage, and the fhurfday before Eafter one of each placed over A link up the land is the rum of A the 160 A T O U R the fheep-cot, the ftable, or the cow-houfe. On the i ft of May they are carried to the hill where the Bel-tern is celebrated, all decked with wild flowers, and after the feaft is over, re-placed over the fpots they were taken from. Thefe follies are now fel- dom praclifed, and that with the utmoft fecrecy 5 for the Clergy are indefatigable in difcouraging every ipecies of fuperilition. In certain places, the death of people is fuppofed to be foretold by the cries and fhrieks of Ben/hi, or the Fairies wife, uttered along the very path where the funeral is to pafs j and what in Wales are called corps candles, are often imagined to appear, and foretell mortality. Marriage -phe courtftiip of the Highlander has thefe re- cuftoms. . markable circumltances attending it : after pri- vately obtaining the confent of the Fair, he formally demands her of the father. The Lover and his friends aflemble on a hill allotted for that purpofe in every parilh, and one of them is diipatched to obtain permiflion to wait on the daughter: if he is fuccelsfull, he is again fent to invite the father and his friends to afcend the hill and partake of a whifky cafk, which is never forgot: the Lover ad- vances, takes' his future Father-in-law by the hand, and then plights his troth, and the Fair-one is fur- rendered up to him. During the marriage cere- mony, great care is taken that dogs do not pafs between them, and particular attention is payed to the leaving the Bridegroom's left-ihoe without buckle or latchet, to prevent witches * from de- * An old opinion. Gefner fays that the witches made ufe of toads as a charm, Ut i-:m coctiadi, ni Jailor , in wins tollerent. Gefner dc quad. ovi. p. 72. priving IN SCOTLAND. priving him, on the nuptial night, of the power of loofening the virgin zone. As a teft, not many years ago a fmgular cuftom prevaled in the we/lent Highlands the morning after a wedding : a baiket was faftened with a cord round the neck of the bridegroom by the female part of the company* who immediately filled it with flones, till the poor man was in great danger of being ftrangled : if his bride did not take companion on him, and cut the cord with a knife given her to ufe at diicretion. But fuch was the tendernefs of the Caledonian fpoufes, that never was an inftartce of their neglecting an immediate relief of their good man. Pafs near the abby * of Beaulieu, a large ruin :' crofs the ferry, and again reach Itfvernefs. Make an excurfion ten miles fouth of Invernefs AUG. 30. to Moy-tiall, pleafantly feated at the head of a fmall Ma pt, ffd aaii{{jim::;-*. fnb zonaM j'emfer fet- tint, femjiorc belli loncc.m ex iorii ferraii put- totym ccrbus induunt . -Lib. I. c. vi ; ' to I N S C O T L A N D. 165 t\> which they muft refort on this fignal. A perfon is fent out full fpeed with pole burnt at one end and bloody at the other, and with a crofs at the top, which is called Crojh-tairie, the crofs of mame, x>r the fiery crofs ; the firft from the difgrace they would undergo if they declined appearing ; the fe- cond from the penalty of having fire and fword carried thro' their country, in cafe of refufal. The firft bearer delivers it to the next perfon he meets, he running full fpeed to the third, and fo on. In the late rebellion, it was fent by fome unknown difaffectd hand thro' the county of Breadalbane, and paffed through a tract of thirty-two miles in three hours, but without effect, The women's drefs is the kircb, or a white piece of Women'* Q. rc fs linnen, pinned over the foreheads of thofe that are married, and round the hind part of the head, falling behind over their necks, The fingle women wear only a ribband round their head, which they call a fnood. The tanac 9 or plaid, hangs over their Ihoulders, and is fafcened before with a brotche ; but in bad weather is drawn over their heads. Jn the county of Ereadalbane, many wear, when in high drefs, a great pleated (locking of an enormous length, called offan. In other refpects, their drefs refembles that of women of the fame rank in Eng- land: but their condition is very different, being little better than Oaves to our fex. The manners of the native Highlanders may Character of juftly be expreffed in thefe words : indolent to a high degree, unlefs rouzed to war, or to any anU mating amufement ; or I may fay, from experience, to lend any difmterefled afliftance to the diftrefled M 3 traveller, i66 A T O U R traveller, either in directing him on his way, or af- fording their aid in paffing the dangerous torrents of the Highlands : hofpitable to the higheft degree, and full of generofity : are much affected with the civility of ftrangers, and have in themfelves a natu- ral politenefs and addrefs, which often flows from the meaneft when left expected. '1 hro* my whole tour I never met with a fmgle inftance of national reflection ! their forbearance proves them to be fu- perior to the meannefs of retaliation. I fear they pity us -, but I hope not indifcriminately. Are excef- fively ihquiiitive after your bufinefs, your name, and other particulars of little confequence to them : moft curious after the politicks of the world, and when they can procure an old news-paper, will liften to it with all the avidity of Sbakefpear's black- fmith. Have much pride, and confequently are impatient of affronts, and revengeful! of injuries. Are decent in their general behaviour ; inclined to fuperftition, yet attentive to the duties of religion, and are capable of giving a moil diftinct account of the principles of their faith. But in many parts of the Highlands, their character begins to be more faintly marked ; they mix more with the world, and become daily lefs attached to their chiefs : the clans begin to dilperfe themfelves through different parts of the country, finding that their induftry and good conduct afford them better protection (fince the due execution of the laws) than any their chief- tain can afford , and the chieftain tafting the fweets of advanced rents, and the benefits of induftry, flifmifies from his table the crowds of retainers, the former I N S C O T L A N D. 167 former inftruments of his oppreffion and freakifh tyranny. Mod of the antient fports of the Highlanders, Highland fuch as archery, hunting, fowling and fiming, are now difufed : thofe retained are, throwing the />#///~ftone, or ftone of ftrength*^ as they call it, which occafions an emulation who can throw a weighty one the fartheft. Throwing the penny-Hone^ which anfwers to our coits. Thejhinty, or the ftriking a ball of wood or of hair : this game is played between two parties in a large plain, and furnifhed with clubs ; which-ever fide ftrikes it firft to their own goal wins the match. The amufements by their fire-fides were, the telling of tales, the wildeft and moft extravagant imaginable :"mufick was another : in former times, the harp was the favorite inftrument, covered with leather and fining with wire -{-, but at prefent is quite loft. Bagpipes are fuppofed to have been Bagpipes, introduced by the Danes ; the oldeft are played with the mouth, the loudeft and moft ear-piercing of any wind mufick ; the other, played with the fingers only, are of Irijh origin : the firft fuited the genius of this warlike people, rouzed their courage to battle, alarmed them when fecure, and collected them when fcattered. This inftrument is become fcarce fmce the abolition of the power of the chieftains, and the more induftrious turn of the common people. * Clock neart. t Major fays, Pro mujicis inflrumentls et mufico csncentu, Lyra /j/- we/ires utuntur, atjus chordas ex the only veflel is a gaily belonging to the fort, to bring the ftores from the eaft end, the river Nefs. being too fhallow for navigation. It 1 IN SCOTLAND. 173 It is violently agitated -by the winds, and at times its agitations the waves are quite mountainous. November ift, '1755, at the fame time as the earthquake at-fj$0, thefe waters were affected in a very extraordinary manner: they rofe and flowed up the lake from eaft to weft with vail impetuofity, and were carried above 200- yards up the river Oich, breaking on its banks in a.wave near three feet high ; then continued ebbing and flowing for the fpace of an hour : but at eleven o'clock a wave greater than any of the reft came up the river, broke on the north fide, and overflowed the bank for the extent of 30 feet. A boat near the General's Hut, loaden with brum-wood, was thrice driven afliore, and twice carried back again ; but the laft time, the rudder was broken, the wood forced out, and the -boat filled with water and left on fhore. At the fame time, a little ifle, in a fmall lough in Badenocb, was totally reverfed and flung on the beach. But at both thefe places no agitation 'was felt on land. Rode to the caftle of 'TGr-down^ a rock two miles SEPT. i. weft of Fort Jtugujius : on the fummit is an antient ^. uv /. fortrefs. The face of this rock is a precipice ; on the accefiible fide is a ftrong dyke of loofe ftones i above that a ditch, and a little higher a terrafs fup- ported by ftones : on the top a fmall oval area, hollow in the middle : round this area, for the depth of near twelve feet, are a quantity of ftones ilrangely cemented with almoft vitrified matter, and in fome places quite turned into black fcoria : the ftone: were generally, granite mixed with a few grit- ftones of a kind not found nearer the place than 40 "miles. Whether this was the antient fire of fome forge, A T O U R forge, or whether the ftones which form this for- trefs * had been collected from the ftrata of fome Vulcano, (for the veftiges of fuch are laid to have been found in the Highlands) I fubiTLt to farther enquiry. From this rock is a view of Ben-ki^ a vaft craggy mountain above Glen-Garrie's country. Towards the fouth is the high mountain Coryarich : the afcent from this fide is nine miles, but on the other into Eadenoch is very rapid, and not above one, the road being, for the eafe of the traveller, cut in a zigzag fafhion. People often perifh on the fummit of this hill, which is frequently vifited during win* ter with dreadfull ftorms of fnow. SCPT. 2. After a fhort ride weflward along the plain, reach Lough-Oich, a narrow lake , the fides prettily in- dented, and the water adorned with fmall wooded GIe-Grrif. i^ es On the fhore is Gkn-Gcirrie^ the feat of Mr. M'-Donald, almoft furrounded with wood, and not far diftant is the ruin of the old caftle. This lake is about four miles long ; the road on the fouth fide is excellent, and often carried through very pleafant woods. After a fmall interval arrive on the banks of Lough-Lochy, a fine piece of water, fourteen miles long, and from one to two broad. The diftant mountains on the north were of an immenfe height ; thofe on the fouth had the appearance of fine fheep- walks. The road is continued on the fide of the lake about eight miles. On the oppofite fhore was Achnacarrie, once the feat of Cameron of Lffchiel, * I was informed that at Arifaig is an old caftle formed of the fame matcrialr. but I N S C O T L A N D. 175 but burnt in 1746. He was efteemed by all par- ties the honefteft and mofl fenfible man of any that embarked in the pernicious and abiurd attempt of that and the preceding year. By his influence he prevented the Rebels from committing feveral ex- ceffes, and even faved the city of Glafgoiv from being plundered, when their army returned out of England, irritated with their difappointment, and enraged at the loyalty that city had ihewn. The Pretender came to him as foon as ever he landed. Lochid feeing him arrive in fo wild a manner and fo unfupported, entreated him to defift from an enterprize from which nothing but certain ruin could refult to him and his partisans. The Ad- venturer grew warm, and reproached Lochiel with a breach of promife. This affected him fo deeply, that he inftantly went and took a tender and moving leave of his lady and family, forefeeing he was on the point of parting with them for ever. The in- come of his eftate was at that time, as I was told, not above 700!. per ann. yet he brought fourteen hundred men into the field. The waters of this lake form the river Locby, and diicharge themielves into the weltern fea, as thofe of Lougb-Oich do through Lougb-Nefs into the eaftern. About the beginning of this lake enter Lccbaber * ; flop at Low-bridge, a poor houfe -, tra- vel over a black moor for fome miles -, fee abun- dance of cattle, but fcarce any corn. Crofs High-bridge, a fine bridge of three arches flung over the torrent Spean, founded on rocks j two of * So called from a lake not far from Fort William, near \vhofe baaks Banquo was faid to have been miuthered. the j;6 A T O U R the arches are 95 feet high. This bridge was builf by General Wade, in order to form a communica- tion with the country. Thefe publick works were at firft very difagreeable to the old Chieftains '. it leflened their influence greatly ; for by admitting ftrangers among them their clans were taught that the Lairds were not the firft of men. But they had another reafon much more folid : Lochaber had beer} a den of thieves ; and as long as they had their waters, their torrents and their bogs, in a ftate of nature, they made their excurfions, could plunder and retreat with their booty in full fecurity. So weak were the laws in many parts of North Britain, till after the late rebellion, that no flop could be put to this infamous practice. A contribution, called the black ineal^ was raifed by feveral of thefe plundering chieftains over a vaft extent of country : whoever payed it had their cattle enfured, but thofe who dared to refufe were fure to fuffer. Many of thefe free-booters were wont to infert an article, by which they were to be releafed from their agree- ment, in cafe of any civil commotion : thus, at the breaking out of the laft rebellion, a McGregor *, who had with the ftricteft honor (till that event) j5referved his friends cattle, immediately fent them word, that from that time they were out of his protection, and muft now take care of themfelves. Barrifdale was another of this clafs, chief of a band of robbers, who fpread terror over the whole coun- try : but the Highlanders at that time efteemcd the open theft of cattle, or the making a fpreith (as . . * Who aiTuCTicd the name of Graham. I N S C O T L A N D. 177 they called it) by no means dishonorable ; and the young men confidered it as a piece of gallantry, by which they recommended themfelves to their miftreffes. On the other fide there was often ?.> much bravery in the purfuers , for frequent battles enfued, and much blood has been fpilt on thofe occafions. They alfo mewed great dexterity in tracing the robbers, not only through the boggy y land, but over the firmeft ground, and even over places where other cattle had pafied, knowing well how to diftinguifh the fteps of thofe that were wan- dering about from thofe that were driven haftily away by the Free-booters. From the road had a diftant view of the moun- tains of Arijaig, beyond which were Moydart^ Kin- loch , &c. At the end of Lough Sbiel the Pretender firft fet up his ftandard in the wildeft place that imagination can frame. The inhabitants of this country are moftly Papifts, and here the ftrength of the rebellion lay. Pafs by the fide of the river Lochy^ now confi- derable. See Inverlochy Caftle with four large round towers *, which, by the mode of building, feems to have been the work of the Englijh, in the time of Edward I. who laid large fines on the Scotch Barons for the purpofe of creeling new caftles. Reach Fort William, built in King William's reign ; as was a fmall town near it, called Mary- * The largeft is called Cummin's tower. Thefe towers fo greatly referable thole built by the fame monarch in North Wales, that I fcarce hefitate to attribute this caftle to him. By feveral accounts it appears that there had been a caftle on the fame Ipot, built many centuries prior to this ruin ; and it is alfo aflerted, that the league between Charlemagne and Ackaius, King of Scotland, Was iigned by the latter in it. N , 7 S A T O U R borough, in honor of his Queen ; but prior to that, had been a fmall fortrefs, erected by order of Cram- vuel, with w'hofe people the famous Sir Even Ca- meron * had numerous contdfts. The prefent fort is a triangle, has two baftions, and is capable of admitting a garrifon of eight hundred men. It was well defended againft the Rebels in 1746, who raifed the fiege with much difgrace. The fort lies on a narrow arm of the fea, called Loch-yell, which extends Ibme miles higher up the country, making a bend to the north, and extends likewife weftward towards the ifle of Mull, near twenty-four Scotch miles. This fort on the weft, and Fort sluguftus in the centre, and Fort George on the eaft, form what is The Chain, called the chain, from fea to fea. This fpace is called Glen-mere, or the great Glen, which, includ- ing water and land, is almpft a level of feventy miles. There is, in fact, but little land, but what is divided by firth, lough, or river i except the two miles which lie between Lough Oich and Lough Locby. . By means of Fort George, all entrance up the Firth towards Invernefi is prevented, Fort Au- gujius curbed the inhabitants midway, and Ford V/illiam is a check to any attempts on the weft. Detachments are made from all thefe garriibns to Invernefs, Eernera banacks oppofite to the Ifle of Skie* and Caftle Duart in the Ille of Mull-\. Other * Who is fold to. have killed the lull .Wolf in Scotland, about jke year 1680. \_ J \vab informed that coal has been lately difcovered in this iflantl. What advantage may not this prove, in ellablifhments of ; luanufa&ures, m a country juil rouzed from the lap of indolence ! fmall IN SCOTLAND. fmall parties are alfo fcattered in huts throughout the country, to prevent the ftealing of cattle. fort William is furrounded by vaft mountains, which occafion almoft perpetual rain : the loftieft are on the fouth fide ; Benevi/b foars above the reft, and ends, as I was- told, in a point, (at this time concealed in mift) whofe height from the fea is faid to be -i 450 yards. As an antient Briton, I lament the difgrace of Snowdon > once efteemed the higheft hill in the ifland, but now muft yield the palm to a Caledonian mountain. But I have my doubts whe- ther this might not be rivaled, or perhaps furpafled by others in the fame country , for example, Ben y bourd, a central hill, from whence to the fea there is a continued and rapid defcent of feventy miles, as may be feen by the violent courfe of the Dee to Aberdeen. But their height has not yet been taken, which to be done fairly muft be from the fea. Benevi/b, as well as many others, harbor fnow throughout the year. The bad weather which reigned during my ftay in thefe parts prevented me from vifiting the cele- brated parallel roads in Glen-Roy. As I am unable to fa-tisfy the curiofity of the Reader from my own obfervation, I fhall deliver in the Appendix * the informations I could collect relating to thefe amazing works. The great produce of Lochaber is cattle : that Trade of diftricl: alone fends out annually 3000 head ; but if L chabfr ' a r portion of In Gkn-Morifton, and Straith-Glas^ a fmall one near Lough-Gar rie^ another near Lough-Arkig, and a few fcattered trees above Kinloch-Leven, all in Invernefsflrire ; and I was alib informed that there" are very confiderable woods about Caftk Grant. I faw only one fpecies of Pine in thofe I vifited ; nor could I learn whether there was any other than what is vulgarly called the Scotch Fir, whofe fynonyms are thefe : Pinus fylveftris fotiis brevibus glattcis, conis parvis albentibus. Raii hift. PL 1401. fyn. ftirp. Br. 442. Pinus Jytveftris. Gerard's herb. 1356. Lin. fp. PI- 1418. Flora Angl. 361. N 4 Pin A T O U R Pin d\ILccffe, ou de Geneve. Du Hamel Traite des Arbres. II. 125. No. 5. Fyrre^ Strom. Sondmor. 12. Moft of this long day's journey from the black mountain was truly melancholy, almoft one contU nued fcene of duflky moors, without arable land, trees, houfes, or living creature, for numbers of miles. The roads are excellent ; but from Fort William to Kinloch-Leven, very injudicioufly planned, often carried far about, and often fo fteep as to be fcarce furmountable ; whereas had the engineer followed the track ufed by the inhabitants, thofe inconve- niences would have been avoided. Thefe roads, by rendering the highlands accefii- ble, contributed much to their prefent improvement, and were owing to the induftry of our foldiery, they were begun in 1723 *, under the directions of Gen. JFrf^, who, like another Hannibal, forced his way through rocks fuppofed to have been uncon- querable : many of them hang over the mighty lakes of the country, and formerly afforded no other road to the natives than the paths of fheep or goats, where even the Highlander crawled with difficulty, and kept himfelf from tumbling into the far fubjacent water by clinging to the plants and bufhes of the rock. Many of thefe rocks were too hard to yield to the pick-ax, and the miner was obliged to iub- due their obftinacy with gunpowder, and often in places where nature had denied him footing, and where he was forced to begin his labors, fufpended from above by ropes on the face of the horrible precipce. IN SCOTLAND. precipice. The bogs and moors had likewife their difficulties to overcome ; but all were at length con- ftrained to yield to the perfeverence of our troops. In fome places I obferved, that, after the manner of the Romans, they left engraven on the rocks the names of the regiment each party belonged to, who were employed in thefe works ; nor were they lefs worthy of being immortalized than the Vexillatio's of the Roman legions ; for civilization was the con- fequence of the labors of both. Thefe roads begin at Dunkeld, are carried on thro" the noted pafs of Killicrankie, by Blair, to Dalna- cardocb, Dalwbinie, and over the Coryaricb, to Fort Auguftus. A branch extends from thence eaftward to Invernefs, and another weftward, over High- bridge, to Fort William. From the laft, by Kinlocb- Leven, over the Black Mountain, by the King's houfe, to T'eindrum, and from thence, by Glen-urqkie, to Inveraray, and fo along the beautifull boundaries of Lough-Lomond, to its extremity. Another road begins near Crief, pafies by Aber- feldy, crolTes the Fay at fay-bridge, and unites with the other road at Dalnacardocb ; and from Dal- wbinie a branch pafTes through Badenocb to Inver- nefs. Thefe are the principal military roads , but there may be many others I may have over-looked. Rode through fome little vales by the fide of a fmall river , and from the appearance of fertility have, fome relief from the dreary fcene of the reft of the day. Reach Tyendrum, a fmall village. The inn is feated the higheft of any houfe in Scotland. The I'ay runs eaft, 1 86 A T O U R caft, and a few hundred yards further is a little lake, whofe waters run weft. A lead-mine is worked here by a level to feme advantage , was difcovercd about thirty years ago: the veins run S. W. and N.E. SETT. 5. Continue my tour on a very fine road on a fide of a narrow vale, abounding with cattle, yet defti- tute both of arable land and meadow; but the beafts pick up a fuftenance from the grafs that fprings up among the heath. The country opens on approaching Glcn-Urqhie, a pretty vally, well cultivated, fertile in corn, the fides adorned with numbers of pretty groves, and the middle watered by the river Urqjbie : the church is feated on a knowl, in a large ifle, formed by the river: the Manfe, or minifter's houfe, is neat, and his little demefn is decorated in the moft advantageous places with feats of turf, indicating the content and fathfadion of the pofleflbr in the lot Providence has given him. In the church-yard are feveral grave-ftones of great antiquity, with figures of a warrior, each fur- nimed with a fpear, or two-handed fword : on fome are reprefentations of the chafe; on others, elegant fret-work -, and on one, faid to be part of the coffin of a M'Gregor^ is a fine running pattern of foliage and flowers, and excepting the figures, all in good tafte. On an .eminence on the fouth fide of this vale dwells M l Nabb, a fmith, whofe family have lived in that humble ftation fince the year 1440, being always of the fame profeffion. The firft of the line was employed "by the Lady of Sir Duncan Campbell, who I N S C O T L A N D. 187 who biiilt the caftle of Kikhurn when her hufband was on a croifade : fome of their, tombs are in the church-yard of Glen-Urqbie ; the oldeft hfas ~a ham- mer and other implements of his trade cut on it. I here was favored with Several tranflatidns of fome Englijb poetry into the Erfe language, an epi- taph, and an elegy* to be found in the Appendix *, by thofe whafe .turn leads them to perufe' per- formances of that kind. .After breakfaft, at a good inn near the village, was there prefent 'at achriften- ing, and became fponfor to a> little" Highlander^ by no other ceremony than receiving him for a mo- ment into my arms. Purfue my journey, and have a fine view of the ", meanders of the river before, its union with I-.ough-^ Aw : in an ifle in the beginning of the lake -is the caftle of Kikhurn^ which had been inhabited by the Caftlc of prefent Lord Breadalbanfs grandfather. The great tower was repaired by hisLordihip, and garrifoned by him in 1745, for the fervice of the government, in order to prevent the Rebels from making ufe of that great pafs crofs the kingdom; but is now a ruin, having lately been ftruck by lightening. At a place called Hamilton's Pafs, in an inftant burft on a view of the lake, which makes a bean- tifull appearance , is about a mile broad, and mews? at left ten miles of its length. .This water is pret- tily varied with ifles, fome- fo fmall as meerly to peep above the furface ; yet evert thefe are tufted with trees ; fome are large enough to afford hay and pafturage , and in one, called Incb-bail; are the J - ... . * No.IV. A T O U R remains of a convent*. On Fraocb-Elan **, the Hef- Derides of the Highlands, are the ruins of a caftle. The fair Mego longed for the delicious fruit of the ifle, guarded by a dreadfull ferpent : the hero Fraocb goes .to gather it, and is deftroyed by the monfter. Hi;s tale is fung in the Erfe ballads, and is tran Gated and publifhed in the manner of FingaL The whole extent of Lougb-Aw is thirty miles, bounded on the north by Lorn, a portion of Argyle- Jhire, a fertile country, prettily wooded near the water-fide. On the N. E. are vaft mountains : Mount among them Crouachan f towers to a great height; it rifes from the lake, and its fides are magged with woods impending over it. At its foot is the difcharge of the waters of this Lough into Lougb-Etive^ an arm of the iea, after a turbulent courfe of a feries of cataracts for the fpace of three miles. At Bu- naiV) near the north end, is a large falmon-fifhery i alib a confiderable iron-founder} 1 -, which I fear will foon devour the beautifull woods of the country. Pals by Scot/lawn, a fingle houfe. Dine at the little village of Cladijh. About two miles hence, on an eminence in fight of the convent on Inch-hail^ is a fpot, called Croifch an 'TJleathd, or the crofs of bowing, becaufe, in Ptpijb times, it was always cuftomary to kneel or make obeifance on firft fight of any confecrated place . * The country people arc ftill fond of burying here. Infular interments arc faid to owe their origin to the fear people had of having their friends corpfes devoured by wolves on the main land. ** This ifland was granted by Alexan^r III. in 1267, to Gillcrifi M'NacbJan and his heirs for ever, on condition they mould enter- tain the King^ whenever he paffed that way. t Or the Great Heap. j Druidical ftones and temples are called Clacban , churches having often been built on fucb places : to go to Clacban is a com- mon Erfe phrafe for going to churck. T Pafs IN SCOTLAND. Pafs between hills finely planted with feveral forts of trees, fuch as Weymoutb pines, &c. and after a piclurefque ride, reach Inveraray , the caftle the principal feat of the Dukes of Argyle, chief of the Campbells ; was built by Duke Archibald ; is quadrangular with a round tower at each comer, and in the middle rifes a fquare one glazed on every fide to give light to the ftaircafe and galleries, and has from without a moft di- agreeable effect. In the attic ftory are eighteen good bed-chambers : the ground-floor was at this time in a manner unfurnifhed", but will have feveral good apartments. The caftie is built of a coarfe lapis cllaris, brought from the other iide of Lough- Fine, and is the fame kind with that found in Nor- way y of which the King of Denmark's palace at Copenhagen is built. Near the new caftle are feme remains of the old. This place will in time be very magnificent; but at prefent the fpace between the front and the water is difgraced with the old town, compofed of the moft wretched hovels that can be imagined. The founder of the caftle defigned to have built a new town on the weft fide of the little bay the houfe ftands on : he finiflied a few houfes, a cuftom- houfe, and an excellent inn : his death interrupted the completion of the plan, which, when brought to perfection, will give the place a very different appearance to what it now bears. From the top of the great rock Duniquaich is a fine view of the caftle, the lawn fprinkled with fine trees, the hills covered with extenfive plantations, a country fertile in corn, bordering the Lough, and i 9 o A T O U R and the Lough itfc-lf covered with boats. The trees on the lawn about the caitle are laid to have been planted by the Earl of Argyle : they thrive greatly, for I'obferved beech from nine to twelve feet and a half in girth, pines nine, and a letter maple between ieven and eight. But the buiy fcene of the herring-fimery gave no fmall improvement to the magnificent environs of Inveraray. Every evening * fome hundreds of - boats in a. manner covered the furface of Lough- Fine, an arm of the lea, which, from its narrow- nefs and from the winding of its mores, has all the beauties of a frefh- water lake : on the week- - days, the chearfull' noife of the bagpipe and dance ecchoes from on board : on the fabbath, each boat approaches the land, and plalmody and devotion divide the day ; for the common people of the north are difpofed to be religious, having the example before them- of a gentry untainted by luxury and difiifxif ion, and being inftrucled by a clergy, who are active in their duty and who pre- fcrve fefpeft, amidft all the difadvantages of a narrow income.- Lougt-Firt. ne length of Lottgh-Fine> from* the eaflern end to the point of Lamond^ is above thirty Scotch miles ; but its breadth fcaree two meafured : the c?epth from fixty to feventy fathoms. It is noted Herrings. ^ or r ^ e va ^ moa ^ s ^ herrings that appear here in July and continue till January. The higheft leafon is from September to Chriftmas^ when near fir hun- . ; * The fifhery 'is' carried oh in tlic night, the herrings being then in motion.. , . . .... dred IN SCOTLAND. 191 dred boats, with four men in each, are employed. A chain of nets is ufed (for fe.veral are united) o a hundred fathoms in length. As the herrings fwim. at very uncertain depths, fo the nets are funk to the depth the fnoal is found to take : the fuccefs therefore depends much on the the judgement or good fortune of the fifhers, in taking their due depths j for it often happens that one boat will take multitudes, while the next dees not catch a fmgle fifh, which makes the boatmen perpetually enquire of each other about the deptli of their nets. Thefe are kept up by buoys to a proper pitch ; the ropes that run through them are faftcncd with pegs, and by drawing up or letting out the rope (after taking out the pegs) they adjuft , their fituation, and then replace them. Sometimes the iifii fwim in twenty fathom water, fometimes in fifty, and oftentimes even at the bottom. It is computed that each boat gets about 40!. in the feafon-. The filh are either faked, and packed in barrels for exportation, or fold freih to the country people, two or three hundred horfes being brought every day to the water-fide from very diftant parts. A barrel holds 500 herrings, if they are of the beft kind ; at a medium, 700 : but if more, for fome- times a barrel will hold 1000, they are reckoned very poor. The prefent price il. 43. per barrel; but there is a drawback of the duty on fait for thofe that are exported. The great rendezvous of vefTels for thefifheryoff the weftern ifles is at Cambdtown^ inCantyre, where they clear out on the izth of September 9 and fome- times three hundred builes are feen there at a time : I 9 2 A T O U R they muft return to their different ports by January 1 3th, where they ought to receive the praemium of 2!. ics. $w tun of herrings; but it is faid to be very ill paid, which is a great difcouragement to the fifhery. The herrings of Lough-Fine are as uncertain in their migration as they are on the coaft of Wales. They had for numbers of years quitted that water ; but appeared again there within thefe dozen years. Such is the cafe with the loughs on all this weftern coail, not but people defpair too foon of finding them, from one or two unfuccefsfull tryals in the beginning of the ieafori , perhaps from not adjufling their nets to the depth the fiih happen then to fwim in : but if each year a fmall veffel or two was fent to make a thorough tryal in every branch of the fea on this coaft, they would undoubtedly find Ihoals of rifti in one or other. Tannics. Tunnies *, called here Mackrel-Sture, are very frequently caught in the herring feafon, which they follow to prey on. They are taken with a ftrong iron hook fattened to a rope and baited with a her- ring : as foon as hooked lofe all fpirit, and are drawn up without any refiftance : are very active when at liberty, and jump and frolick on the fur- face of the water. SEPT: 7. Crofted over an elegant bridge of three arches upon the Aray, in front of the caftle, and kept riding along the fide of the Lough for about feven miles : faw in one place a fhoal of herrings, clofe to the furface, perfectly piled on one another, with a flock of Gulls, bufied with this offered booty. ~Br. 2aeL iltujlr. 33. After I N S C O T L A N D. 193 After quitting the water-fide the road is carried for a confiderable way through the bottoms of naked, deep and gloomy glens. Afcend a very high pafs with a little lough on the top. Reach the end of Lough-Lung, another narrow arm of the fea, bounded by high hills, and after a long courfe terminates in the Firth of Clyde. Near this place fee a houfe, very pleafantly fitu- ated, belonging to Colonel Campbell, amidft plan- tations, with fome very fertile bottoms adjacent. On afcending a hill not half a mile farther, appears LOUGH-LOMOND. North-Britain may well boaft Review of of its waters -, for fo fhort a ride as thirty miles the Lakcs< prefents the traveller with the view of four moft magnificent pieces. Lough- Aw, Lough-Fine, Lough* Long, and Lough-Lomond. Two indeed are of falt- water , but, by their narrownefs, give the idea of frefh-water lakes. It is an idle obfervation of tra- vellers, that feeing one is the fame with feeing all of thefe fuperb waters; for almoft every one I vifited has its proper characters. Lough-Leven is a broad expanfe, with ifles and cultivated ihores. Lough-^ay makes three bold windings, has fteep but doping mores, cultivated in many parts, and bounded by vaft hills. Lough-Raynach, is broad and ftrait, has more wildnefs about it, with a large natural pine wood on its fouthern banks. Lough-Vumel is narrow, confined by the floping fides of fteep hills, and has on its weftern limits a flat, rich, woody country, and is- watered by a mojl ferpentine ftream. The X 94 A T O U R The Lough of Spinie is almoft on a flat, and its fides much indented. Lough-Moy is fmall, and has foft features on its banks, amidil rude environs. Lough -Nefs is ftrait and narrow-, its fhores abound with a wild magnificence, lofty, precipi- tous and wooded, and has all the greatneis of an Alpine lake. Lougb-Oich has lofty mountains at a fmall dif- tance from its borders -, the mores indented, and the water decorated with ifles. Lough-Locky wants the ifles , its Ihores dope, and feveral ftraiths terminate on its banks. Lough- Aw is long and \\aving: its little ifles tufted with trees, and juft appearing above the water, its two great feeds of water at each ex- tremity, and its fmgular lateral difcharge near one of them, fufficiently mark this great lake. Lwgb-Lomond. Lough-Lomond, the laft, the moil beautifull of the Caledonian lakes. The firft view of it from Tarbat prefents an extenfive ferpentine winding amidft lofty hills : on the north, barren, black and rocky, which darken with their made that contracted part of the water. Near this gloomy tract, beneath Craig Rof- M'Gregors. ton> was the principal feat of the McGregors, a murderous clan, infamous for excefies of all kinds; at length, for a horrible maflacre of the Colqukuns, or Cahouns, in 1602, were profcribed, and hunted down like wild beads -, their very name fupprefied by act of council , fo that the remnant, now dif- perfed like Jews, dare not even fign it to any deed. Their posterity are ftill faid to be diftinguilhed among the clans in which they have incorporated themfelves, I N S C O T L A N D. 195 themfelves, not only by the rednefs of their hair, but by their ftill retaining the mifchievous difpofi- tion of their anceftors. On the weft fide, the mountains are cloathed near the bottoms with woods of oak quite to the water edge -, their fummits lofty, naked and craggy. On the eaft fide, the mountains are equally high, but the tops form a more even ridge parallel to the lake, except where Ben-Lomond *, like Saul amidft his companions, overtops the reft. The upper parts were black and barren ; the lower had great marks of fertility, or at left of induftry, for the yellow corn was finely contrafted with the ver- dure of the groves intermixed with it. This eaftern boundary is part of the Grampian Grampian hills, which extend from hence through the coun- hllls ' ties of Perth, Angus, Mearns, and Aberdeen. They take their name from only a fingle hill, the Mons Grampus of Tacitus, where Galgacus waited the approach of Agricola, and where the battle was fought fo fatal to the brave Caledonians. Anti- quarians have not agreed upon the particular fpot ; but the able Mr. Gordon f places it near Comerie, at the upper end of Straitbern, at a place to this day called Galgachan Moor. But to return. The road runs fometimes through woods, at others is expofed and naked ; in fome, fo fteep as to require the fupport of a wall : the whole the work of the foldiery : blefled exchange of inftruments of deftruction for thofe that give fafety to the traveller, and a polifh to the once inacceflible native. * Its height is 3240 feet* t Itin, Septtnt. 39, O 2 A great A T O U R A great headland covered with trees feparates. the firft fcene from one totally different. On pafs 7 ing this cape an expanfe of water burfts at once on your eye, varied with all the fofter beauties of na- ture. Immediately beneath is a flat covered with wood and corn : beyond, the headlands flretch far into the water, and confifl of gentle rifings ; many have their furfaces covered with wood, others adorned with trees loolely fcattered either over a fine verdure, or the purple bloom of the heath. Numbers of iilands are difperfed over the lake of the fame elevated form as the little capes, and wooded in the fame manner ; others juft peep above the furface, and are tufted with trees ; and num- bers are fo difpofed as to form magnificent viftos between. Oppofite JLo/j, at a fmall diftance from more, is a mountainous ifle almoft covered with wood ; is near half a mile long, and has a molt fine effect. I could not count the number of iflands, but was told there are twenty-eight : the largeft two miles long, and flocked with Deer. The length of this charming lake is 24 Scotch miles , its greateft breadth eight : its greateft depth a hundred and twenty fathoms. Befides the fifli common to the Loughs are Guiniads y called here Poans. The country from Lufs * to the fouthern ex- tremity of the lake continually improves ; the mountains fink gradually into fmall hills; the land is highly cultivated, well planted, and well inha- * A tolerable inn on the borders of the lake. bited. IN SCOTLAND. 197 bited. I was ftruck with rapture at a fight fo long new to me : it would have been without alloy, had it not been dafhed with the uncertainty whether the mountain virtue, hofpitality, would flourim with equal vigor in the fofter fcenes I was on the point of entering on j for in the Highlands every houfe gave welcome to the traveller. The vale between the end of the lake and Dun- barton is unfjpeakably beautifull, very fertile, and ' finely watered by the great and rapid river Levin, the difcharge of the lake, which, after a Ihort courfe, drops into the Firth of Clyde below Dunbarton : there is fcarcely a fpot on its banks but what is cultivated with bleacheries, plantations and villas. Nothing can equal the contraft in this day's journey, between the black barren dreary glens of the morn- ing ride, and the loft fcenes of the evening, iflands worthy of the retreat of Armida, and which Rinaldo himfelf would have quitted with a figh. Before I take my laft leave of the Highlands^ it Entrances would be proper to obferve that every entrance into them is ftrongly marked by nature. On the fouth, the narrow and wooded glen near Dunkeld inftantly mews the change of country. On the eaft, the craggy pafs of Eollitir gives a contracted admifiion into the Grampian hills. On the north, the mountains near Lough-Moy appear very near, and form what is properly ftyled the threshold of the country ; and on the Weft, the narrow road impending over Lough- Lomond forms a moft characteriftic entrance to this mountainous tract. O i But 198 A T O U R But the Erfe language is not confined within thefe limits -, for it is fpoken on all fides beyond thefe mountains. On the eaftern coaft it begins at Nairn , on the weftern, extends over all the ifles.' It ceafes in the north of Catbnefs, the Orkneys, and the Shetland iflands * , but near Lough-Lomond, is heard at Lufs, at Buchanan, eaft of the lake, and at Rofeneth, weft of it. Crofs the ferry over the Levin at Bonnet, and after a ride of three miles reach Dunbarton. Dunbarton, a fmall but good old town, feated on a plain near the conflux of the Levin with the Firth of Clyde j it confifts principally of one large ftreet in form of a crefcent. On one fide is the tfolbooth, and at the fouth end the church with a fmall fpire fteeple. The waites of the town are bagpipes, which go about at nine o'clock at night and five in the morning. Its caflle. The caftle is feated a little fouth of the town on a two-headed rock of a ftupendous height, riling in a ftrange manner out of the fands, and totally detached from every thing elie. On one of the fummits are the remains of an old light-houfe , on the other, the powder magazine : in the hollow between is a large well of excellent water fourteen feet deep. The fides of the rocks are immenfe precipices, and often over-hang, except on the fide where the governor's houfe Hands, which is defended by walls and a few caanon, and garrifoned by a few invalids. From its natural ftrength, it was in former times deemed impregnable j fo that the * In the Shetland i/les are ftill fome remains of the Norfe, or old Norwegian language. defperatc IN SCOTLAND. 199 defperate but fuccefsfull fcalado of it 1571 * may vie with the greateft attempts of that kind, with the capture of the Numidian fortrefs, in the Jugur- thine war, by Marius ; or the more horrible furprize of Fefcamp -f, by the gallant Bois-rose. From the fummits of this rock is a fine view of the country, of the town of Dunbarton, the river Levin, the Firth of Clyde, (the Glota of 'Tacitus) here- about a mile broad, and of the towns of Greenock and Port Glafgow, on the oppofite more. The bu- finefs of this country is the fpinning of thread, which is very considerable. There is alfo a great Fifti: falmon-fimery : but in this populous country, fo great is the demand for them that none can be ipared for curing. Gilfes come up the river in June, and continue in plenty about twenty days ; and many Salmon Trout are taken from March to July. Phinocs, called here Yellow Fins, come in July, and continue about the fame fpace of time as the Gilfes: the fifhermen call them the young of ibme great Sea Trout. During May, Parrs appear in fuch numbers in the, Levin, that the water feems quite animated with them. There are.befides in that river Perch and .a few Poam . Pafs by the ruins of Dunglas caftle, near the SEPT. 8. banks of the Clyde, which meanders finely along a rich plain full of barley and oats, and much in- clofed with good hedges, a rarity in North Britain. * Robertfoni lift. Scotland, II. 1C. o3avo. Gutbries, VII. 331. t Sully s Memoirs, Vol. I. Book VI. t Al'Dunbarton I was informed by perfons of credit, th^t Swal-_ lows have often been taken in midwinter, in a torpid ftate, out ot the fteeple of the church, and alfo out of a fand-bank over the river Endrick, near Lough -Lomond. 04 At 200 A T O U R At a diftance are fome gentle rifings, interlperfed with woods and villas belonging to the citizens of GLASCPW. The beft built of any modern fecond-rate city I ever faw : the houfes of ftone, and in a good tafte. The principal ftreet runs eaft and weft, and is near a mile and a half long ; but unfortunately, is riot ft rait. The I'olbooth is large and handfome. Next to that is the Exchange : within is a fpacious room with full-length portraits of all our monarchs fince James I, and an excellent one, by Ramfay, of Archibald Duke of Argyle^ in a Judge's robe. Before the Exchange is a large equeftrian flame of King William. This is the broadeft and fineft part of the ftreet : many of the houfes are built over piazzas, but too narrow to be of much fervice to walkers. Numbers of other ftreets crofs this at right angles, and are in general well built. Market- ' The market-places are great ornaments to this places. c - tv ^ tne fronts being done in a very fine tafte, and the gates adorned with columns of one or other of the orders. Some of thefe markets are for meal, greens, fifh, or Mem. There are two for the laft, which have conduits out of feveral of the pillars ; fo that they are conftantly kept fweet and clean. Near the meal-market is a publick grainary, to be filled on any apprehenfion of fcarcenefs. The guard-houfe is in the great ftreet, which is kept by the inhabitants, who regularly do duty. An excellent police is obferved here, and proper officers attend the markets to prevent any abufes. The old bridge over the Clyde confifts of eight arches, and was built 400 years ago by Bifhop 1 N S C O T L A N D. 201 Rea \ two others are now building. The tide flows three miles higher up the country-, but at low water is fordable. There is a plan for deepening the channel -, for at prefent the tide brings up only very fmall veflels ; and the ports belonging to this city lie fourteen miles lower, at Port Glafgow and Greenock) on the weft fide of the Firth. Near the bridge is a large alms-houfe, a vaft nailery, a ftone-ware manufacture, and a great porter brewery, which fupplies fome part of unin- duftrious Ireland. Within fight, on the fouth fide, are collieries -, and much coal is exported into the laft-mentioned ifland, and into America. The great imports of this city are tobacco and fugar : of the former, above 40,000 hogfheads have been annually imported, and near 20,000 again exported into France. The manufactures here are linnens, cambricks *, lawns, tapes, fuilians, and flriped linnens -, fo that it already begins to rival Manchefter, and has in point of the conveniency of its ports, in refpecl to America^ a great advantage over it. The college is a large building, with a handfome front to the flreet, refembling fome of the old col- leges in Oxford. Charles I. fubfcribed 200 1. to- wards this work, but was prevented by the troubles from paying it , but Cromwell afterwards fulfilled the defign of the royal donor. It was founded in 1450, by James IJ. Pope Nicholas I. gave the bull) but Bifhop 'Turnbull fupplied the money. There are about 400 ftudents belonging to the col- * The greateft carabrick manufa&ure is now at Paijly, a icw miles from this city. lege, A T O U R lege, who lodge in the town : but the Profeffors have good houfes in the college, young gentlemen of fortune have private tutors, who have an eye to their conduct , the reft live entirely at their own difcretion. The library is a very handfome room, with a gal- lery round it, fupported by pillars. That benefi- cent nobleman the late Duke of Cbandos^ when he vifited the college, gave 500!. towards building this apartment. Meflrs. Robert and Andrew Foulis^ printers and bookfcllers to the univerfity, have inftituted an academy for painting and engraving ; and like good citizens, .zealous to promote the welfare and honor of their native place, have at vaft expence formed a moft numerous collection of paintings from abroad, in order to form the tafte of their eleves. The printing is a very considerable branch of bufinefs, and has long been celebrated for the beauty of the types and the correctnefs of the edi- tions. Here are preferved in cafes numbers of monumental and other ftones*, taken out of the walls on the Roman ftations in this part of the kingdom : fome are well cut and ornamented : moft of them were done to perpetuate the memory of the vexillatioi or party, who performed fuch or fuch works ; others in memory of officers who died in the country. Chvrches. The cathedral is a large pile, now divided into two churches : beneath, and deep under ground, * Several have been engraven by the artifts of the academy. The Provoft of the Univeriity did me the honor of prefenting me with a fet. is I N S C O T L A N D. 203 is another, in which is alfo divine fervice, where the congregation may truely fay, clamavi e pro" fundis : the roof is fine, made of ftone, and fup- ported by pillars , but the beauty much hurt by the crowding of the pews. Near this is the ruin of the caftle, or Bifhop's palace. The new church is a very handfome building, with a large elegant porch ; but the outfide is much disfigured by a (lender fquare tower with a pepper-box top : and in general, the fteeples of Glafgow are in a remarkable bad tafte, being, in fact, no favorite part of architecture with the church of Scotland. The infide of that juft fpoken of is moft neatly finifhed, fupported by pillars, and very prettily fluccoed : it is one of the very few excep- tions to the Qovenly and indecent manner in which Prefbitery keeps the houfes of GOD : reformation in matters of religion feldom obferves mediocrity : here it was outrageous , for a place of worfhip commonly neat was deemed to favor of popery : but, to avoid the imputation of that extreme, they run into another , for in many parts of Scotland our LORD feems flill to be worfhipped in a ftable, and often in a very wretched one. Many of the churches are thatched with heath, and in iome places are in fuch bad repair as to be half open at top , fo that the people appear to worfhip, as the Druids did of old, in open temples. Went to fee Hamilton Houfe, twelve miles from SEPT. iCi. Glafgow : rode through a rich and beautifull corn country, adorned with fmall woods, gentlemen's feats, and well watered. Hereabout I faw the firft muddy ftream fmce I had left Edinburgh ; for the Highland 204 A T O U R Highland rivers running generally through a of rock, or pure gravel, receive no other teint, in the greateit floods, than the brown cryftalline tinge of the moors, out of which they rife. tothvtii See on the weft, at a little diftance from the Bridge. roa d y t h c ru i ns O f Botfruxll caftle, and the bridge, remarkable for the Duke of Monmoutb's victory over the Rebels in 1679. The church was colle- giate, founded by Archibald Earl of Douglas., 139.8, and is, as I heard, * oddly incrufted with a thin coat of ftone. Hamilton Houfe, or Palace, as it is called here, is feated at the end of a fmall town -, is a large difagreeable pile of building, with two deep wings at right angles with the centre. The gallery is of great extent, and furnifhed (as well as fome other rooms) with moft excellent paintings : that of Da- niel in the Lion's den, by Rubens, is a great per- formance : the fear and devotion of the prophet is finely expreflcd by his uplifted face and eyes, his clafped hands, his fwelling mufcles, and the violent cxtenfion of one foot : a Lion looks fiercely at him with open mouth, and feems only reftrained by the almighty power from making him fall a victim to his hunger ; and the fignal deliverance of Daniel is more fully marked by the number of human bones fcattered over the floor, as if to mew the inftant fate of others, in whole favor the Deity did not interfere. The marriage-feaft, by Paul Veromfe^ is a fine piece, and the obftinacy and refiftance of the in- * Bifhop Paced?; manufcrlpt journal. I N S C O T L A N D. 205 trnder, who came without the wedding garment, is ilrongly exprefied. The treaty of peace between England and Spain, in the reign of James I. by Juan de Pantoxa, is a good hiftorical picture. There are fix Envoys on the part of the Spaniards, and .five on that of the Englijh, with their names infcribed over each : the Englijh are the Earls of Dorfet, Nottingham, Devon- Jhire, Northampton, and Robert Cecil. Earls of Lauderdale and Lanerk fettling the co- venant, both in black, with faces full of puritanical folemnity. Several of the Dukes of Hamilton. James Duke of Hamilton, with a blue ribband and white rod. His fon, beheaded in 1649. His brother, killed at the battle of Worcefter. The Duke who fell in the duel with Lord Mohun. Fielding, Earl of Denbigh * ; his hair grey, a gun in his hand, and attended by an Indian boy. The iineft I ever faw of Vandyk's portraits : it feems per- fectly to ftart from the canvafs, and the action of his countenance looking up has matchlefs fpirit. His daughter, and her hufband the Marquifs of Hamilton. Old Duke of Chatelherault, in black, with an order about his neck. Two half-lengths in black ; one with a fiddle in his hand, the other in a grotefque attitude ; both with the fame countenances; good, but fwarthy; * The perfon who fhewed the houfe called him governor of Jamaica ; but that muft be a miftake. If any errors appear in my account of any of the pictures, 1 flatter myfelf it may be excufed ; for fpmetimes they were flicwn by fervants; fometimes the owners of the houfe were fo obliging as to attend me, whom I could not trouble with a number of queftions. miftakenjy A T O U R miftakcnly called David Rizzo's ; but I could not learn that there was any portraits of that unfor- tunate man. Maria Dei Gratia Scotorum Regina? 1586. JEt. 43. a half-length ; a fliff figure, in a great ruff, au- burne hair, oval but pretty full face, of much larger and plainer features than that at Caftle Braan, a natural alteration from the increafe of her cruel ufage, and of her ill health -, yet ftill with a refem- blance to that portrait. It was told me here, that me fent this piclure, together with a ring, to the Duke of Hamilton, a little before her execution. A head, faid to be Anna Bullen, very handibme, dreiTed in a ruff and kerchief edged with ermine, and in a purple gown ; over her face a veil, fo tranfparent as not to conceal ^ The bloom of young delirc and purple light of love. Ecfrl Morton, Regent of Scotland. The rough reformer John Knox. Lord Belhaven, author of the famous fpeech againft the union. Philip II. at full length, with a ftrange figure of Fame bowing at his feet with a label and this motto, Pro merente adjlo. cbatelherault. About a mile from the houfe, on an eminence above a deep wooded glen, with the Avon at its bottom, is Cbatelherault \ fo called from the eftate the family once poffefTed in France : is an elegant banqueting houfe, with a dog-kennel, gardens, &c. and commands a fine view of the country. The park is now much inclofed : but 1 am told that Wild cattle, there are ftill in it a few of the breed of the wild cattle. I N S C O T L A N D. 207 cattle, which Boethius * fays were peculiar to the Caledonian foreil, were of a fnowy whitenefs, and had manes like lions : they were at this time in a diftant part of the park, and I loft the fight of them. I regret alfo the not being able to vifit the falls of the Clyde near Lanerk, which I was informed were very romantic, confiding of a feries of cata- racts of different heights from ten to fifteen feet, fome falling in meets of water, others broken, and their fides bounded by magnificent rocks covered with trees. Returned to Glafgow. CroiTed the country towards Sterling. Pafied SEPT. n. through the village of Kylfithe^ noted for a victory gained by Montrofe over the Covenanters. Thro* a bog, where numbers of the fugitives perifhed, is now cutting part of the canal that is to join the Firths of Forth and Clyde. Saw the fpot where the battle of Bannockbourm was fought, in which the Englijh under Edward II. had a mamefull defeat. Edward was fo allured of conqueft that he brought with him William Bafton a Carmelite^ and famous poet, to celebrate his victory j but the monarch was defeated, and the poor bard taken and forced by the conqueror, invita minerva, to fing his fuccefs, which he did in fuch lines as thefe : * Gignere folet ea fyl>-Seffion, which " is the loweft. Above the Prtfby- cc tery is the Synod, which is a court 213 Granite Quarries at N. Ferry , 62 Aberdeen, 116 Gre-hound, the Highland, 127, 275 Grout's, John a y houfe, 153 Gull, Arctic, 62 Halydon Hill, battle of 40 Hares, white, 7^ 276 Heronry, a great, 1 1 Herring fifhery, 190, 191 High- bridge, 175 Highlands, awefull entrances into, 74 Drefs of the Highland Men, 1 62 Women, 1 65 Arms, 163 Character of the Highlanders, 1 65 Sports and amufements of, 167 Hofeton Houfe, 214 Huntings, magnificent in old times, 99, I Jamefon, the painter, 8 1 Fine picture of his at ^aymouth, ibid Other pictures of his, 122, 123 Jet, where found, 22 Inoculation practifed as far as Shetland Ifles, 15$ Infects, 286 Inveraray, INDEX. Inveraray Town and Caftle, Invercauld, its magnificent fituation, Inverlochy Caftle, Invernefs^ Fair, Joug, what, Itinerary, Kilchurn Caftle, 187 Killicrankte, Pafs of, 9 8 Kinlocb-Leven, l % 2 Kinlofs Abbey, ^3^ Kinrofs, 55 Kittiwake, a fort of Gull, 120 L Labor, its price in Scotland, 68, no Late wake, a ftrange funeral cuftom, 92 Lavellan, the Water Shrew-moufe, 150, 276 Leitb, 57 Lincoln, its beautifull cathedral, Lochaber, ^^ l Lod>id, his feat, ^jKb-Levcn, its fifh and birds, Loncarty, battle of, .< anfvver rne To what I aik. Page 132, barren for, read burnt for. [i P. 133. note to Gluve* * for Glaive an old word for a fword. Then furth he drew his trufty Glaive, Quhyle thoufands all arround, Drawn frae their fheaths glanft in the fun And loud the bougills found. Hardyknute. Ibid. line 30. after land Before the recent introduction of the improved method of Agriculture. 4rrik>9 eifdem redderc, co fervato moderamine ut ubi primum diflbluerint, vencos haberent placidos ; ubi alterum vehemcntiorcs ; Bt ubi tertium laxa-ver'mt, ita fsevos tempeitatcs ie pailuros, &c. Clous Magnus, 97. Page TOUR IN SCOTLAND. ir Page 134. note to G. II. * * An account of the government of the church of Scotland was communicated to me by the Rev. Mr. Brodie, the late worthy minifter of Calder. Vide Appendix, No. I. Page 135, line 14, Tweed* * To the WORTHY. But if in thefe Days fuch Apoftates appear, (And fuch I am told are found there and here) O pardon, dear friends a well-meaning zeal, Too unguardedly telling the fcandal I feel. It touches not you, let the galled jades winch; Sound in morals and doctrine you never fhould flinch. &c. &c. &c. Page 137, line 3, after execrate him' to the perfon who informed him that he was approach- ing as a fugitive, forefeeing his own ruin as the confequence. His Lordfhip was at that time ex- pecting the event of the battle, when a perfoa came in and acquainted him that he faw the prince riding full fpeed and alone. The battle was fought contrary to the advice of fome of the moft fenfible men in the army, who advifed retiring into the faftnefies beyond the Nefs, the breaking down the bridge of Ittvcrnefs, and defending themfelves amidft the mountains. They politically urged that England was then en- gaged in bloody wars foreign and domeltic, that it could at that time ill fpare its croops, and that Xhe government might from that confideration be induced is SUPPLEMENT TO THS induced to grant to the infurgents their lives and fortunes on condition they laid down their arms. Tney were fenfible that their caufe was defperate, ?nd that their ally was faithlefs -, yet knew that k would be long before they could be extir- pated, fo- drew hopes from the fad neceffiiy of our affairs at that feafon. But this rational plan was fuperfeded by an overnling faction in the army, to whofe guidance the unfortunate adventurer had re- Jigged himielf. Regard to impartiality obliges me to give the following account, very recently communicated to me by an eye-witnefs, relating to the ftation of the hief On this important day : The Scotch army was drawn up in a fingle line ; behind, at about 500 paces diftance, was a Corps dc Referve, with which was the adventurer, a place of feeming fecurity . His ufual drefs was that of the highlands* but this day he appeared in a brown coat, a loofe great coat over it, and an ordinary countryman's hat on his head. Remote as this place was from the trifling conflict, yet a fervant of his was killed by an accidental mot. It is well known how fhort the battle was ; but the moment he faw his right wing give way, he fled with the utmoft precipitation, and without a fingle attendant. Page 151, note to * This caftle was taken and garrifon'd by the Marquifs of Montrofe, in 1650, immediately pre- ceding his final defeat. Page TOUR IN SCOTLAND. a g e *53 noj-e to t Quoted by Mr. Wallace, from die Iter Bahti- u.m of Conradus Celtcs. Addition to note J, relating to the tang pre- fervation of human bodies, without the affiance of art. In vol. XLVII, of the pUofophical {re- factions at large, is an account of a body found .fa- tire and imputrid at Stavert6n y in Devon/hire* So years after interment. * Page 156, Rofsrhead, re ad Nofs-head. Page 1 60, line 6, after from, And this fpecies of rural facrifjce was originally ftyled Clou-an Beltein, or the fplit branch of die fire of the rock. Vide M^Mc'Pberfin's Infrodiu- ^ &c. p. 1 56. Page 165, line 4, add this note*, * This cuftom was common to the northern parts af Europe^ with fome flight variation, as ap- pears from OLAUS MAGNUS, who, p. 14^, defcribes it thus: Bacculus tripalmaris> agilioris jimmis citrfit pretipiti, ad ilium vel ilium fagum feu villam hujup modi ediRo deferendus ccmmit-titur, vel 3 r 4, vet ;8 4ie units, duo. vet tns, aut viritim cmnes vzl JinguJj. ah anno triluftri, cum armis et expen/is 10 iiel 20 dierum Jub p#na combuftionis doworum (quo u$9 lacculo) vet fufpenfionis Patroni, aut omnium (yuc fuve allegato ftgnatur} in tali ripa* vel campo ant comparer? tenentur fiibtto, cattfam vocationis* ' 14 SUPPLEMENT TO TH atque ordinem cxecutionis Prasfeclii provincialis, quid jieri debeat audituri. Ibid, line 22, I have alfb obferved, during divine fervice, that the women keep drawing their tanac or plaid for- ward in proportion as their devotion increafes, in- Ibmuch as to conceal at laft their whole face, as if it were to exclude every external objecl: that might interrupt their devotion. r Page 1 7 5, line 4, after year, And was a melancholy inftance of a fine under- ftanding, and well-intending heart, being over- powered and perverted by the unhappy prejudices of education. Page 176, line 16, black meal, read black maiL . Page 178, line 2, by order of Cromwel^ read 9 by order of General Monk. Page 201, line 7, Weft-fide, read, South-fide. Page 203, Prefbitery, read, Prefbytery. Page 214, The order of council for the removal of venereal patients out of Edinburgh, into Inch- Keith: 22. Sept. 1497. It is our Soverane Lords Will and the Command of the Lordis of his Counfale fend to the Proveft and Baillies within this bur' that this Proclamation followand TOUR IN SCOTLAND. 13 followand be put till execution for the efchewing; of uhe greit appearand danger of the Infection of, his Leiges fra this contagious Ikknefs call it the Grandgor and the greit uthcr Skayth that may occur to his Leiges and Inhabitants within this bur 1 that is to fay we charge ftraitley and comma-nils be the Authority above writtin that all manner of Perfonis being within the freedom of this bunt quilks are infe<5tit or hes been infectit unctirit witJi * this faid contagious plage callit the Uravagor 9 clevoyd, red and pafs fur 1 of this Town and comt- peir apon the fandis of Leith at ten hours before none and there fall thai have and fynd Bolis reddle in the havin ordanit to them be the Officeris at this burt reddely f urn id with Victuals to have* them to the Inche and thair to remane quhil God proviyd for thair Health : Arid that all uther per- fonis the Quilks taks upon thame to hale the faid contagious infirmitie and taks the cure thairof that they devoyd and pafs with thame fua that name of thair perfonis quhilks taks fie cure upon them ufe the famyn cure within this bur* in pus nor peirt any manner of way. And wha fa. beis foundin infectit and not pals and to the Incbe as faid is be Mononday at the fone ganging to, and in lykways the faid perfonis that takis the fd cure of fanitie upon thame gif they will ufe the fary thai and ilk ane of them falle be brynt on the cheik with the marking Irne that thai may be kennit in tym to cum and thairafter gif any of tliem remains that they fall be banift but favors. Page 16 SUPPLEMENT TO THE- Page 216, line 26, after unpleafanr, But inceffant rains thrcmghout my journey from Edinburgh^ rendered this part of my tour both tinpleafant and unedifying. Page 220, Mr. Gilkr y read, Mr. Gilloto^ Page 220, line 11, a new paragraph after be- tween, Eleven miles farther is the village of Garftang, feated on a fertile plain, bounded on the Eaft by the Fells, on the Weft by Pelting mofs^ which for- merly made an eruption like that of Solway. The adjacent country is famous |for producing the fineft cattle in all the county : a gentleman in that neigh- bourhood has refufed 30 guineas for a three-year- old heifer : calves of a month old have been fold for ten, and bulls from 70 to 100 guineas, which- have afterwards been hired out for the feafon for 30 : fo notwithftanding his misfortune, well might honed Barnaby * celebrate the cattle of this place, Veni Garjtang ubi nata Sunt armenta fronte lata. Veni Garjtangi ubi male Intrans forum befliale, Forte vacillando vico Hue et illuc cum amico, In Juvencse dorfum rui, Cujus cornu laefus fui. A little to the eaft is a ruined tower, the re- * Better known by the name of Drunken Barnaby, who lived in the beginning of the laft century ; and publifhcd his four Itine- tarics into the uotth in latin rhyme. mams TOUR IN SCOTLAND. 17 mains of Grenehaugh caftle, built, as Camlden fays, by Sir Thomas Stanley, firft earl of Derby, to pro- ted himfelf from the outlawed nobility, whofe eftates had been granted him by Henry VII. Page 221, line 17, note toabfolute*, * The writer muft mean in Scotland, for in England the two firft monarchs of the name feem only to have attempted to fupport the plenitude of power exerted bj r , and delivered down to them by their immediate predeceiTors, which the fervile ijpirit of the preceding times endured. Note to Walkynur *, p, 8, of thefe pages, * From Walur, {laughter in battle, and Kyria y to obtain by choice, for their office, befides feled- ing out thofe who were to die in battle, was to conduct them to Valhalla, the paradife of the brave, the hall of Odin. Their numbers are dif- ferent, fome make them three, others twelve, others fourteen : are defcribed as being very beau- 'tifull, covered with the feathers of fwans, and armed with fpear and helmet. Vide Bartholinus de cauf. contempt, mortis. 553, 554, notse. vet. Ste- fhanii in Sax. Gramm. 88, and Torfaus, 36. Page 164, line 17, name of, add Eyxsiphov, $ugio, or little dagger. Page 234, Indicatories, read, Judicatories. Page 287, note to QUERIES, Thefe queries were originally compofcd and B printed j8 printed by order of the Society of Antiquarians, and difperfed thro' feveral parts of England. As the fpirit of enquiry feems at prefent reviving, I took the liberty of reprinting them, in hopes of their meeting with better fuccefs than they did formerly , and that gentlemen may be induced, from them, either to form local hiftories, or to tranfmit to fo refpectable a fociety fuch matters re- lating to the hiflory of their country as will merit it's attention. Thomas Pennant. A 000 055 574 8 University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. *-