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 I)«TS fOi-i

 
 my v" MAP 
 
 PROTESTANT VALLIES 
 
 v\ i:\io.\t
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 OF 
 
 THE VAUDOIS, 
 
 IN 
 
 A SERIES OF VIEWS 
 
 ENGRAVED BY EDWARD FINDEN, 
 
 DRAWINGS BY HUGH DYKE ACLAND, Esq. 
 ftaompamrt* fottf) Descriptions. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 CHARLES TILT, FLEET STREET. 
 
 M.DCCC.XXXI.
 
 LONDON: 
 
 J. MOYES, TOOK'S COURT, CHANCERY J.ANB.
 
 StacK 
 
 Annex 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The drawings for the accompanying prints were 
 made to illustrate a volume published by me in 
 1827, entitled " The Glorious Recovery by the 
 Vaudois of their Valleys." In republishing the 
 prints in a separate form, I have obeyed the re- 
 quests of many persons, who were anxious to 
 possess them without the expense accompanying 
 the original letter-press. But as these prints may 
 be purchased by persons unacquainted with the 
 former work, or with the history of the people who 
 are the subject of it, the following outline of the 
 most remarkable incidents relating to them may 
 not be unacceptable. 
 
 The Vaudois, formerly Vallenses or Valdenses, 
 have inhabited from time immemorial the three 
 beautiful valleys of Lucerne, Perouse, and Martin, 
 situated in the Cottian Alps, immediately above 
 Piemont. By the marriage of Adelaide, Marchion- 
 ess of Susa and Duchess of Turin, with Oddon, 
 Count of Savoy, they became subject to the latter 
 house, and remain so at the present time. 
 
 B 
 
 1062155
 
 2 
 
 In a compendium of the history of the Vaudois 
 prefixed to the " Glorious Recovery/' &c, it is, I 
 trust, proved, by the testimony of most eminent 
 Protestant and Romish divines, that the Vaudois 
 form a successive apostolical church, which has 
 never been subjected to the ecclesiastical authority 
 of Rome, nor tainted by Romish errors. 
 
 During the first ages of Christianity their history 
 merges, of course, in that of the whole Western 
 church. But when, at the end of the eighth cen- 
 tury, Romish errors, already intolerable, received 
 the sanction of a council convened at Nice by 
 Adrian I., it was time for those who remained 
 faithful to the truth openly to denounce its ene- 
 mies, and to "go out from among them." The 
 council of Frankfort, the Emperor Charlemagne, 
 the British and German churches, raised their 
 indignant voices, especially against the worship 
 of images, — but in vain. Above all, however, 
 in energetic defence of the truth, and bold con- 
 demnation of Romanism, was Claude, Archbishop 
 of Turin. Every Romish error then existing, was 
 exposed and combated by him with vast ability 
 and with uncompromising zeal; and, so far from 
 acknowledging the supremacy of Rome, he con- 
 demned her church as " superstitious and idol- 
 atrous." The Vaudois formed part of the flock 
 of this indefatigable pastor ; and their steadfast 
 adherence to Claude's doctrines, after his death,
 
 3 
 
 is evident from historians of the Romish per- 
 suasion. 
 
 During the succeeding five centuries, the Vau- 
 dois appear, not only to have preserved their light, 
 but, from time to time, to have shot forth rays 
 of it through the darkness which enveloped the 
 rest of the Western churches. 
 
 For these purposes they had sometimes so many 
 as one hundred and twenty pastors, who met 
 annually in synod, in the recesses of their noble 
 mountains. At these synods persons were ap- 
 pointed to preach in every part of Europe, where 
 there was any hope of success. Money was con- 
 tributed by all the members of their community. 
 The Albigensian and Bohemian churches are the 
 most splendid, though not the only proofs of the 
 efficacy of these labours during the period now 
 contemplated, — until, in the fourteenth century, 
 their efforts were finally crowned by the appear- 
 ance of Wickliffe, Huss, and Jerome of Prague, 
 who fanned the Vallensian sparks into an unex- 
 tinguishable flame. 
 
 Having thus fulfilled in peace the office of 
 " witness," in retaining apostolical doctrines till the 
 appointed time for their more general diffusion, 
 the Vaudois were now to bear " witness " of another 
 sort, through a series of persecutions unexampled 
 in length and severity. . t », 
 
 Alarmed by the rapid growth of the various
 
 4 
 
 branches of the reformation, and furiously irritated 
 against the parent stock, the church of Rome re- 
 solved that its vengeance should be satisfied only 
 by the complete eradication of the latter. It is 
 not my intention to enumerate the various perse- 
 cutions suffered by the Vaudois — much less shall I 
 enter on the horrible details of any one of them. 
 I have elsewhere given some account of them ; 
 and he who has once minutely directed his at- 
 tention to the subject, would gladly avail him- 
 self of a worse excuse than the brief limits of 
 an introduction, to escape the horror of another 
 consideration of it. These persecutions continued, 
 with few intervals, for nearly three hundred years ; 
 and those intervals, I once more affirm, were 
 " periods, not so much of security and repose, 
 as of agonizing reflections and fearful anticipa- 
 tions." I may not, however, pass over in silence 
 the last and most successful effort of their ene- 
 mies ; inasmuch as it led to the remarkable events 
 recorded in " the Glorious Recovery by the Vau- 
 dois of their Valleys." 
 
 In 1686, Victor Amadeus II., influenced by the 
 menaces of Louis XIV., resolved utterly to extirpate 
 the Vaudois from their valleys ; and he did so. 
 The remnant left by the sword, the executioner, 
 and disease, were banished into Switzerland. This 
 remnant, amounting to three thousand persons, 
 including women and children, were most tenderly
 
 received by the Swiss, and comfortably located in 
 the different towns and villages of Berne. Hence 
 they were removed into the Palatinate, having 
 offended the Bernois by two attempts to return 
 to their native country, — attempts construed by the 
 Duke of Savoy into hostility on the part of the 
 Bernois government. In the Palatinate, ground 
 sufficient for all their wants was allotted to them, 
 and they were already expecting to reap their first 
 harvest, when another removal became necessary. 
 I will take the liberty of stating the cause of this 
 removal and its results, from a pamphlet published 
 by me in 18*26. 
 
 In the commencement of 1689, Louis XIV., 
 with a view to security on his German border, de- 
 termined to lay waste the Palatinate ; and the cruel 
 accomplishment of this purpose is even yet marked 
 by many a noble ruin. It was clear to the Vaudois 
 that this was no place for them : the Swiss again 
 pitied and received them. But in August of the same 
 year they assembled in the forest of Nyon, to the 
 number of eight hundred ; and on the night of the 
 loth crossed the lake of Geneva, under the command 
 of one of their pastors (Henri Arnaud), to com- 
 mence a march of nearly two hundred miles, over 
 a mountainous and hostile country, for the purpose 
 of attacking the united forces of France and Savoy, 
 of expelling the usurpers of their hearths, and re- 
 covering the possession to themselves. Leaving
 
 6 
 
 the Meilleury Alps on the left, they dropped into 
 the valley of the Arve, below Cluses ; and, passing 
 through Salenches and Contamines, crossed the 
 Col de Bonhomme, and fell into the valley of the 
 Isere at Bourgh St. Maurice. Pursuing the course 
 of this river to Mount Iseran, they crossed that 
 mountain, descended to the Arcque at Bonneval, 
 left it again at Lans le Villard, near Lanslebourg, 
 and ascended Mount Cenis. In order to avoid 
 Susa, which was strongly garrisoned, they filed to 
 the right, intending to cross the Dora, at Chau- 
 mont, between Susa and Exiles. Hitherto they 
 had met with no serious opposition ; but now they 
 were so severely attacked in a narrow pass on the 
 Jaillon, a little stream which joins the Dora just 
 above Susa, that they resolved to keep the heights 
 on the right bank of the Dora, and force its passage 
 at the bridge of Salabertran, above Exiles. Here 
 they were opposed by the Marquess of Larrey, and 
 two thousand four hundred regular troops : they 
 attacked him without hesitation, and so completely 
 beat him, that twelve captains, several other officers, 
 and six hundred privates, were left dead on the 
 field, and the Marquess of Larrey was dangerously 
 wounded, and carried on a litter to Briancon. 
 Their own loss in killed is recorded to have been 
 only fourteen ! 
 
 Allowing time neither for triumph nor repose, 
 and convinced that their courage and confidence
 
 in God were to be exposed to yet harder trials, 
 they immediately ascended the opposite mount- 
 ain of Sci, though the battle had already oc- 
 cupied part of the night. Those who are not 
 acquainted with lofty mountains, can scarcely 
 conceive the labour of surmounting them ; and 
 those who have had this experience will be asto- 
 nished, that after an eight days' forced march, in 
 such a country, ended by a desperate battle, men 
 should yet undertake, by moonlight, so difficult an 
 ascent. It is one of the steepest and most painful, 
 there being, even to this day, no beaten path, and 
 the zone of the mountain being girdled with an 
 immense forest of low supple under-wood, the long 
 branches of which lie like ropes parallel to the 
 ground, so that the walker is as it were in a broken 
 net. On the following morning they descried the 
 summits of their native mountains ; and assembling 
 together, they joined in thanksgiving to God for 
 the sight, and in prayer for his protection in their 
 further progress. 
 
 They then descended into the valley of the 
 Clusone, pushed on to the highest village on the 
 Col de Pis ; and on the following morning, having 
 routed a detachment of the enemy, who were in 
 possession of the heights, they entered as glorious 
 victors into their own land, whence they had de- 
 parted little more than three years before as despised 
 prisoners.
 
 8 
 
 Without a more minute detail than is compa- 
 tible with the view of this publication, it is im- 
 possible to describe the romantic nature of the 
 war which these people sustained till the arrival of 
 winter. They were felt every where, yet could be 
 found no where ; they were constantly divided, and 
 ever uniting; they bivouacked among the snows 
 and rocks for fear of their enemies, yet their ene- 
 mies deserted the villages for fear of them ; appa- 
 rently incapable of shewing themselves to their 
 opponents, they reaped a great part of the harvest 
 in spite of them ; they more than once effected a 
 slaughter in one day greater in number than their 
 own collected force ; and, finally, they intrenched 
 themselves in a noble and beautiful mountain, 
 whence they regularly descended to grind their 
 corn at two mills, while within a few leagues lay 
 an army of twenty-two thousand men, who thought 
 themselves never secure from attack while ditch 
 or palisade was left incomplete. The winter was 
 thus passed by them in dear-bought security. In 
 the ensuing spring, as soon as the passes were 
 practicable, Marshal Catinat invested their natural 
 fort on every side, and ordered an attack on the 
 2d of May, the success of which appeared to admit 
 of no doubt. It was made with the utmost gallantry ; 
 but repulsed with a dreadful slaughter of the French. 
 The Balsi, or the mountain "des quatre dents," (for 
 such is the name of this celebrated spot,) is situated
 
 9 
 
 at the extremity of the valley of St. Martin. Be- 
 tween two torrents, whose dark and rocky channels 
 unite in a narrow angle at the foot of it, the Balsi 
 rises in a magnificent cone, forming a sort of spire 
 at the end of a long and narrow ridge ; on this 
 spire are three pinnacles, one above the other, 
 which, in the sharpness of their rocks, and the 
 bold projection of the pines which adorn them, 
 serve well to complete the architectural images of 
 flnial and of crocket. Each of these was sepa- 
 rately intrenched by a ditch, and trees covered 
 with huge stones ; and the habitations were exca- 
 vated in the ground. There is only one approach, 
 and that is very abrupt. 
 
 After his failure, Marshal Catinat resigned the 
 command to Feuquieres. This officer proceeded 
 indefatigably ; he caused each soldier to be pro- 
 vided with a bag of wool, proof against musket- 
 ball, under cover of which they made slow but 
 sure advances, intrenching themselves each day on 
 whatever ground they gained.* A battery was 
 erected on the opposite mountain, before which 
 the ramparts of the Vaudois instantly disappeared ; 
 so that on the thirteenth day all was ready for a 
 last and overwhelming attack on the highest pin- 
 nacle. Mules had been brought up loaded with 
 gibbets and halters, and the whole country invited 
 
 * Feuquiers, in his Memoires, mentions this fact himself. 
 
 c
 
 • 10 
 
 to witness the execution of the last of the Vaudois. 
 At day-break, on the ensuing morning, the French 
 sounded the charge : not a shot was returned ; the 
 only remaining post was carried, but not a Vaudois 
 was to be found. This gallant remnant was first 
 discovered retreating over the snowy summit of 
 the Guignevert, far out of the reach of their dis- 
 appointed foe. They had escaped during the 
 night by precipices hitherto deemed impracticable, 
 and therefore unguarded. And even in this they 
 could not have succeeded, on account of the short- 
 ness of the night, had they not been providentially 
 assisted by a heavy fog two hours before the time 
 of sunset. 
 
 For the space of another month they were 
 engaged in many bloody encounters, defending 
 themselves successfully in the neighbourhood of 
 the Pra del Tor, the asylum of their forefathers 
 in many a previous persecution. A period at last 
 arrived to this extraordinary struggle. The lions, 
 who had united their force for the destruction of 
 this little flock, quarrelled among themselves ; and 
 Victor Amadeus found no difficulty in reconciling 
 the Vaudois to his service ; and having confirmed 
 them in their reconquered possessions, not only 
 reaped the fruit of their extraordinary courage as 
 soldiers, but confided his own person to their 
 loyalty and protection, when a fugitive from his 
 besieged capital.
 
 11 
 
 I have dwelt thus long on this extraordinary 
 war, because the subjects of the accompanying 
 prints are, for the greater part, scenes of its most 
 important operations. 
 
 The protracted misfortunes of this unhappy 
 people, — if indeed a people successful, at any cost, 
 in defending pure religion may be deemed un- 
 happy, — have not failed to excite the merited 
 sympathy of other nations. Prussia and Switzer- 
 land, Holland and England, have evinced their 
 interest for this primitive church in the moun- 
 tains, by magnificent contributions to her necessi- 
 ties, the benefits of which she still enjoys. Among 
 rulers, Cromwell defended the Yaudois with his 
 accustomed energy ; and Napoleon bestowed on 
 them the birthright of man, — a community of 
 civil rights. It remained for the Congress of 
 Verona, studious of the privileges of princes, and 
 negligent of the rights of the people, to commit, 
 at their dictum, the Vaudois once more to the 
 rule of their old oppressors, without one stipu- 
 lation that the oppression should not be repeated ; 
 and well have their rulers known how to take 
 advantage of the omission. 
 
 To this faint outline of Vaudois history it is 
 unnecessary to add authorities, more especially as 
 I have produced them in the " Compendium" al- 
 luded to in a former page. But if any one of my 
 present readers should wish a more intimate ac-
 
 12 
 
 quaintance with this interesting people, I would 
 refer them to Mr. Gilly's ". Narrative," &c. ; and 
 to " An Historical Defence of the Waldenses, by 
 Jean Rodolphe Peyran, with an Introduction and 
 Appendix by the Rev. Thomas Sims."
 
 13 
 
 DESCRIPTIONS OF PLATES. 
 
 LAUSANNE. 
 
 The first attempt of the Vaudois to return to 
 their native country was made from Ouchy, a sort 
 of haven belonging to this city. The attempt was 
 abandoned on the interference of the authorities. 
 Their last and successful attempt, which has been 
 related in the Introduction, was made from the 
 forest of Nions, a few miles below Lausanne, 
 whence they crossed the lake, and landed at 
 Ivoire in safety ; nor did they encounter any 
 serious difficulty, till they found in the snow, on 
 the Col clu Bonhomme, an obstacle likely to have 
 proved more effectual than a hostile force.
 
 14 
 
 LE COL DU BONHOMME. 
 
 This beautiful but fatal pass lies between Sa- 
 lenche and the Petit St. Bernard. Near the summit 
 are spots, about a league apart, named " La Place 
 des Dames" and " La Place des Domestiques :" 
 each is marked by a pile of stones, the passing 
 work of travellers as they hear from their guides 
 the melancholy story of the destruction of a party 
 of ladies and their servants in a snow-storm. The 
 hand which writes this page has contributed to 
 these rude monuments ; but little did the writer 
 then think that it would be his lot to record a 
 similar disaster, occurring, in his own time, to two 
 of his own countrymen. 
 
 On the 13th of August last, four English gen- 
 tlemen, namely, the Rev. Mr. Bracken, Mr. Augus- 
 tus Campbell, Mr. Joseph Martin, and Mr. Henry 
 Reynolds, started from Contamines, on their route 
 to Cormayeur. Snow had fallen in the night, 
 and the morning was wet and dreary. After pro- 
 ceeding about a league and a half they halted to 
 breakfast, and while waiting for the return of a 
 messenger sent to Contamines for bread, they were 
 passed by a party of sixteen Jesuits. The guide 
 now advised them to return ; but, as he did not
 
 15 
 
 hint at danger, and as the Jesuits were in advance, 
 they resolved on proceeding. On their progress 
 they met a drove of oxen which had come over 
 the pass, and, depending on the track, they ad- 
 vanced confidently. But the wind rose, and soon 
 effaced the vestiges of the oxen ; the snow became 
 deeper and deeper, from two to four or five feet. 
 A suggestion to return was opposed by the guide, 
 as impossible ; and the summit was with difficulty 
 attained. Hence the distance to the only practi- 
 cable descent in their direction is about an hour's 
 walk : the intermediate ground is a rocky ridge 
 above the line of vegetation, or, as the mount- 
 aineers expressively say, " hors de la nature." 
 Even in the clearest weather, not a sign of human 
 existence appears ; the marmot, the chamois, and 
 the eagle, are the only inhabitants. Here, in a 
 freezing temperature, the wind increased violently, 
 and darkened the air with clouds of snow. Our 
 travellers could not see distinctly farther than a 
 few yards ; their extremities were benumbed, their 
 hair frozen, and the guide had lost his way ; yet 
 each concealed his apprehensions, lest he might 
 add to those of the rest ; and some even affected 
 confidence : Bracken alone was silent, and appeared 
 resigned to the worst. 
 
 Their only remaining hope, an attempt to 
 return, was cheered by a gleam of light, which 
 displayed to them the post at the top of the 
 pass ; the guide was no longer at a loss ; and the
 
 16 
 
 certainty of security at the end of an hour and a 
 half's descent all rallied their spirits, with the ex- 
 ception of Bracken. Within ten minutes from the 
 commencement of the descent, he fell ; Campbell, 
 who was nearest to him, tried to lift him up, but 
 could not. Martin and Reynolds then supported 
 him for some yards, when Martin's strength also 
 failed. The guide then added his assistance to 
 Reynolds's, but their united power could scarcely 
 carry him over a small brook. As Bracken's 
 strength became more perfectly prostrated, so that 
 of his supporters became exhausted, and all three 
 were buried in the snow almost at every step, till 
 at last the progress of a few yards occupied many 
 minutes. Campbell and Martin were not only too 
 weak to assist, but they could not force their own 
 way unless the snow was partially removed for them ; 
 above all, night was at hand. Bracken was now 
 insensible of his situation ; yet did his gallant 
 friend, aided by the guide, drag or carry him long 
 after reasonable hope existed. The guide now 
 remonstrated, and peremptorily urged the dreadful 
 alternative of leaving Bracken to his fate, or yield- 
 ing themselves to one common and inevitable de- 
 struction. Not to have left him would have been 
 madness, for they could no longer assist him ; 
 whereas, since hope without reason will flutter 
 indistinctly about kind men's hearts when their 
 friends are in the last danger, they fancied, or 
 would fain have fancied, that on reaching the
 
 17 
 
 nearest chalet they might send out men capable 
 of saving him. They sought the most sheltered 
 spot, and placed him there, carefully wrapped in the 
 cloak — which in fact was to be his winding sheet. 
 But the tragedy was not yet complete. They 
 had scarcely recommenced their descent, when 
 Campbell fell, in utter exhaustion. Martin and 
 the guide went to his assistance, while Reynolds 
 was clearing a way through the snow a few yards 
 below them. Martin also fell from weakness, but 
 recovered himself. Reynolds had not strength to 
 ascend ; but, with an unavailing effort, the guide 
 and Martin brought Campbell down to the spot 
 where Reynolds was. Their united exertions were 
 unequal to the removal of the second sufferer ; 
 but as they were within a quarter of an hour of 
 the nearest chalet, they had no doubt that they 
 could reach it in time to send effectual assistance 
 to him. His last words were, " Don't let me be 
 the cause of you all perishing." He was' brought 
 in alive by the inmates of the chalet, within about 
 half an hour from the time he was left ; but it was 
 only to change the scene of his death, for in ten 
 minutes he breathed his last. The body of Bracken 
 was also recovered ; and both these victims, to the 
 hazards of mountainous enterprises, now sleep in 
 one grave, at Geneva.* 
 
 *' The particulars of this tragedy were received, with per- 
 mission to publish them, from the nearest relations of one of 
 the sufferers. 
 
 D
 
 18 
 
 NEAR MONT CENIS. 
 
 The annexed subject has been introduced, not as 
 a scene of any memorable exploit by the Vaudois, 
 but as a beautiful specimen of the country over 
 which they marched on their glorious return from 
 Switzerland.
 


 
 19 
 
 ARCH AT SUSA. 
 
 Susa, or Suza, is an ancient town, situate on the 
 Dora, at the point where the passes of Mont Cenis 
 and Mont Genevre unite in Piemont. The noble 
 arch which forms the subject of the accompanying 
 print has occasioned much discussion among anti- 
 quaries. It had been supposed by some to be the 
 Trophaeum mentioned by Pliny, lib. iii. cap. 20; but 
 this notion is completely refuted by the fact men- 
 tioned by Hardwin in his note on that passage. 
 He relates, on the authority of an eye-witness, 
 that, in 1671, enough of an inscription remained 
 on the arch at Susa to shew that it was not the 
 inscription given to us by Pliny, as belonging to 
 the " Trophaeum Alpium" described by him. More- 
 over, we are informed by De Boisseau and others, 
 that at a place called Tourbie (corrupted from 
 " Trophaeum"), near Nice, a stone was found con- 
 taining some words of Pliny's inscription. The 
 date, however, of the Arch at Susa, as preserved in 
 Hardwin's time, shews it to be coeval with the one 
 formerly at Tourbie, namely, fourteen years before 
 Christ. It is most probable that Augustus ordered 
 both to be constructed at the same time, — the one
 
 20 
 
 at the transalpine, the other at the cisalpine, ex- 
 tremity of the conquests celebrated by them. 
 
 Among the ravines close to Susa, the Vaudois, 
 under Henri Arnaud, met with a severe repulse ; a 
 misfortune for which they were to be amply com- 
 pensated on the same day.
 
 "I .'I 
 
 '
 
 21 
 
 THE BRIDGE OF SALABERTRANN. 
 
 The village of Salabertrann is about two leagues 
 above the noble fort of Exiles, on the road from 
 Susa to Mont Genevre. The bridge is very nar- 
 row, and built of wood, over the Dora, a turbulent 
 mountain torrent. Here it was necessary for the 
 Vaudois, after being repulsed in the morning near 
 Susa, and after a subsequent long day's march, to 
 force their way in the face of a disciplined French 
 force, three times their own number, covered 
 by intrenchments, and assisted by two companies 
 on the rear of the Vaudois. Fearful as were the 
 odds, there was no time for delay, lest the enemy 
 should be reinforced from the garrison at Exiles. 
 The onset was instantly made, and received by a 
 steady fire from the intrenchments in front, while 
 the rear of the Vaudois was exposed to the two 
 companies already mentioned. At this critical 
 moment some one in the front ranks shouted that 
 the bridge was carried, though in fact it was not. 
 The shout, however, effected the event which it had 
 anticipated ; for the troops in the rear, believing 
 the passage of the bridge to be open, rushed for- 
 ward so impetuously as to force the front irresisti- 
 bly over it : the intrenchments were immediately
 
 22 
 
 carried, and, after a hand-to-hand battle of two 
 hours, not a Frenchman was to be seen. Con- 
 sidering the inferiority of their numbers, the bad 
 position of the Vaudois, and the good one of their 
 enemy, and that the destruction of the bridge (so 
 easy to the French) would have been fatal to 
 them, their wonderful success seems attributable to 
 scarcely less a cause than a direct interposition of 
 Providence.
 
 ■:JLY 
 
 % 
 
 ?&
 
 23 
 
 PRALI. 
 
 Here, for the first time since their expatriation, 
 the Vaudois, to their infinite delight, heard divine 
 service performed in a church of their own. 
 
 The situation of Prali is perhaps higher than 
 that of any other village, certainly of any in which 
 there is a church, in the Cottian Alps ; and the 
 hardships the inhabitants have to contend with in 
 the winter, are scarcely to be imagined by those 
 used to live among plains. Encompassed, even 
 to their doors, by snow from three or four to ten 
 or twelve feet in depth, they are confined for 
 weeks to their own hamlet, as though they were 
 alone in the world. With scanty fuel, and little 
 other food than honey, chestnuts, nut oil, and the 
 coarsest bread — if bread it can be called, — their 
 existence is more like that of marmots than of 
 men ; and yet they are contented. And even 
 when spring approaches to relieve them from their 
 imprisonment, its approach is announced, not as 
 with us, by " the music of the winged choir," but 
 by the roaring of swollen torrents and the thun- 
 ders of avalanches. It is a fact, within the writer's 
 own knowledge, that the wife of a pastor of this 
 place, now living, was carried about during an
 
 24 
 
 accouchement from room to room, to avoid the 
 fury of a flood which penetrated the whole house ; 
 and her child was born literally amidst the 
 " troubled waters." But hardships such as these 
 appear to have been the best, if not the only, 
 securities of the Vaudois, for centuries, against 
 the oppression of their Romish adversaries.
 
 25 
 
 LE SERRE LE CRUEL. 
 
 This romantic valley derives its name from its 
 precipitous character, and the many consequent 
 dangers to which the incautious traveller is ex- 
 posed in it. There is, nevertheless, a perfectly 
 safe path through it, but one not easily pursued 
 without the assistance of a guide. In this rude 
 glen and its neighbourhood, eighty Vaudois, who 
 had been separated from the main body after a 
 severe action, were entirely encompassed by their 
 enemies, but, with a loss of one-fourth of their 
 number, they maintained their ground for some 
 weeks, and ultimately rejoined their brethren. 
 Among rocks inaccessible by their enemies, they 
 found their only safety, and their only shelter was 
 in caverns. In these fastnesses they were some- 
 times confined for days without food ; for any 
 attempt at foraging would have led to their disco- 
 very by their tracks on the snow which surrounded 
 them. They were, in fact, discovered twice by that 
 very mode, — having, under the impulse of extreme 
 hunger, issued forth in search of food at the risk 
 of life. In one instance twelve of them repulsed a 
 hundred and twenty-five peasants, the latter pro- 
 bably being without fire-arms : in the other, the 
 
 E
 
 26 
 
 whole party were encircled by the enemy; but 
 having shut themselves up in an old house, they 
 resisted every attack, until, to use the language of 
 M. Arnaud, " they were assisted by the night, who 
 buried in her darkness the image of death, which 
 had been before their eyes during the entire day."
 
 
 ' 

 
 27 
 
 THE BALSI. 
 
 The wonderful tenure and defence of this rock 
 by the Vaudois, and their ultimate expulsion and 
 escape from it, have been already related in the 
 Introduction.
 
 28 
 
 PRA DEL TOR. 
 
 " The meadow of the fori," as its name desig- 
 nates it, is to the Vaudois what the Thermopylae 
 were to the Lacedaemonians : nor could any Greek, 
 boasting of Spartan descent, point to those straits 
 with greater or juster pride, than the Vaudois feel 
 in directing attention to this scene of their fore- 
 fathers' valour. Never, under the most adverse 
 circumstances, did they concentrate on this spot 
 without obtaining victory. 
 
 Its natural capacities, as a place for defence, are 
 not now strikingly remarkable ; but the approach 
 to it, as may be seen by the print, is rocky and 
 narrow, and must have been much more so before 
 the modern path was made : moreover, during 
 three centuries the gradual wearing away of the 
 confining mountains, and the deposit of their 
 debris, may, even according to Dr. Lyall's slow 
 but certain system, have materially altered the 
 nature of the ground. Of the many instances of 
 the valour displayed by the Vaudois on this spot 
 I will mention only one. 
 
 In 1500, Emanuel Phillibert ordered a power- 
 ful army, under the command of the Count de la 
 Trinite, to devastate the valleys (of the Vaudois).
 
 
 
 £» 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 <* 
 
 
 
 

 
 29 
 
 Taught by experience, that in open resistance 
 alone was any chance of escape, and how to offer 
 it most effectually, the Vaudois concealed the 
 helpless among them in caverns, while the effective 
 occupied and barricaded those spots which, by 
 nature, were most defensible. The Count found 
 every forest an ambush, and every rock a fort; 
 while all his movements were discovered by watches 
 on the heights. Mortified and enraged by conti- 
 nual failures, he applied for reinforcements, but 
 every fresh contest increased his disgrace and the 
 confidence of the Vaudois, till an Alpine winter 
 compelled a suspension of hostilities. 
 
 No sooner, however, had the frost and snow 
 withdrawn their protection from this devoted land, 
 than the Count resumed operations, aided by ten 
 fresh companies and several troops of French 
 veterans. In the face of this army, the Vaudois 
 stormed and carried a newly-built fort at Villars. 
 To revenge this insult, the Count, on the following 
 day, concentrated his force, and appeared in the 
 valley of Angrogna at the head of 8000 picked 
 men, determined to expel the Vaudois from the 
 Pra del Tor, a small circular plain in the heart of 
 the mountains, whence they had never been dis- 
 lodged. 
 
 For four successive days charge followed charge, 
 with no other intermission than the time occupied 
 in relieving the defeated columns by fresh troops 
 from the rear. Having lost 400 privates, 8 cap-
 
 30 
 
 tains, and 2 colonels, on the field, in addition to 
 the wounded, and others who had been previously 
 interred, the Count was forced to fall back on La 
 Tour. But his obstinacy led him to make a se- 
 cond and more disastrous attempt. The assailants 
 on this occasion were Spaniards, who, finding the 
 contest as fruitless and destructive as the former, 
 imputed some fatality to the scene of action, and 
 from superstitious panic proceeded to open mutiny. 
 Taking advantage of the consequent confusion 
 among their enemies, the Vaudois, in their turn, 
 became assailants, and the rout of their foe was 
 immediate. The victors pursued the fugitives 
 through the rude and narrow valley of Angrogna, 
 where the torrent and precipice proved almost as 
 fatal as the sword.* 
 
 * Mons. D'Aubigni, Hist. Univ. chap. ix. Sir S. Morland, 
 p. 235.
 

 
 31 
 
 THE ROCK OF CASTEL LUZZO. 
 
 A small dark spot, on the face of the mountain 
 represented in this print, indicates the mouth of a 
 cavern, which has, at different times, preserved 
 many hundred persons from the last horrors of 
 cruelty. It must be stated, in explanation, that 
 the valley of Lucerne, and the collateral one of 
 Angrogna, were frequently possessed, through 
 means of surprise or treachery, by a brutal and 
 fanatical soldiery, whose every vice was admitted 
 by their employers as a virtue, provided a human 
 victim was sacrificed to Romish superstition. 
 Under these circumstances, an asylum was eagerly 
 sought for the infirm through age or disease, and 
 for the women. The cavern in Castel Luzzo was 
 thought of by two young mountaineers ; but how 
 to enter it, as the rock is, to all practical purposes, 
 perpendicular, was another consideration : the 
 dearest affections, however, under the greatest ex- 
 citement, surmount all difficulties. They descended 
 by a projecting angle of the rock, at about the 
 same risk which a man would be exposed to who 
 should try to come down the outside of a chimney, 
 excepting that, instead of a fall of sixty feet, they 
 risked one of 600. Having gained the cavern,
 
 32 
 
 they received from their comrades, at the top of 
 the rock, ropes and a block, to make a pulley; 
 and by this pulley, in dark nights to avoid detec- 
 tion, the women and the infirm were hoisted up, 
 as were also provisions. Eventually an upper 
 entrance to the cavern was discovered on the top 
 of the mountain, but so narrow that two men 
 might defend it effectually. Brick ovens were 
 constructed, and straw introduced for bedding; 
 and in this " secret place" as many as 300 persons 
 have been concealed together for weeks. 
 
 During the summer of 1829, Mr. Gilly explored 
 this remarkable spot, and will, no doubt, give a 
 perfect account of it in his forthcoming work.
 
 

 
 33 
 
 LA TOUR. 
 
 This little town may be termed the capital of the 
 country of .the Vaudois. It is situated at the 
 bottom of the beautiful valley of Lucerne, which 
 ought properly to be called the valley of the 
 Pelice ; but so jealous are the Piemontese of their 
 Protestant fellow -subjects, that they attach the 
 name of one of their own towns to the valley in 
 question, rather than that of the stream which 
 runs through it. 
 
 During the persecutions of the Vaudois, this 
 place was famous for a fort, described by Sir Sa- 
 muel Morland as a " door to the dungeon of the 
 Protestant valleys :" its site is still marked by 
 remnants of the foundations, and is even now 
 looked on with horror by the Vaudois. 
 
 From Turin to La Tour is a good road of ten 
 posts ; and a comfortable inn will be found there 
 by those who may choose to explore the Vallensian 
 district. Five days will be sufficient for the pur- 
 pose ; and the beauty of the scenery, and the simple 
 manners of the inhabitants, combined with the re- 
 collection of the romantic history of their fore- 
 fathers, will amply reward the traveller for his 
 pains.
 
 34 
 
 LA TOUR AND LUCERNE. 
 
 La Tour has been mentioned in the preceding 
 page. Lucerne is inhabited by Roman Catholics, 
 and is the market-town to the valley miscalled by 
 its name, — as is Perouse, also in the possession of 
 Roman Catholics, to the two other valleys of the 
 Vaudois. The privilege of a market is not allowed 
 to Protestants by the Sardinian government. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 LONDON : 
 .1. MOYRS, TOOK'S COUIIT, ' II AM ERV LANE
 
 fig 
 
 
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 M 
 
 
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