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 TRAVELS 
 
 SOUTH AFRICA, 
 
 UNDERTAKEN AT THE REQUEST 
 
 MISSIONARY SOCIETY. 
 
 BY JOHN CAMPBELL, 
 
 Ministia' of Kingsland Chapel. 
 
 Hontrott : 
 
 PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR, 
 
 By T. KuU, Shacklewell. 
 
 PUBLISHED BY BLACK AND PARRY, LEADENHALL^TREET; AND SOLD BY 
 THE AUTHOR AT HIS HOUSE IN SHACKLEWELL, NEAR KINGSLAND ; AT 
 THE MISSIONARY SOCIETY'S ROOMS, No. 8, OLD JEWRY; BY WILLIAMS 
 AND SON, STATIONERS' -COURT; OLIPHANT, WAUGH, AND INNES, EDIN- 
 BURGH ; AND BY ALL OTHER BOOKSELLERS IN TOWN AND COUNTRY. 
 
 1815.
 
 Si^ck Annex. 
 Cage 
 
 2>T 
 
 TO 
 
 GENERAL 
 SIR JOHN FRANCIS CRADOCK, K. B. 
 
 LATE GOVERNOR OF THE 
 COLONY OF THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, 
 
 CONTAINING A PLAIN NARRATION OF THE VISIT OF THE 
 
 REV. JOHN CAMPBELL, 
 
 AT THE REQUEST OF THE MISSIONARY SOCIETY. 
 
 TO THEIR SEVERAL STATIONS IN AND NEAR THE COLONY, 
 
 LATE UNDER HIS AUSPICIOUS GOVERNMENT, 
 
 WITH THE MOST GRATEFUL RECOLLECTION OF HIS 
 
 CONDESCENDING KINDNESS TO THE AUTHOR AND OF THE FACILITIES 
 
 SO GRACIOUSLY AFFORDED IN THE PROPAGATION OF 
 
 CHRISTIANITY AMONG THE NATIVES, 
 
 Are most respectfully inscribed by 
 THE DIRECTORS OF THE MISSIONARY SOCIETY.
 
 ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 The Missionary Society, instituted in London, in the year 
 1795, for the sole purpose of diffusing the Gospel in Heathen 
 and other unenlightened countries, first directed their views to 
 the islands of the Pacific Ocean ; after which their attention was 
 turned to the vast continent of Africa. That long neglected 
 and much injured country appeared to the Directors to have 
 powerful claims on their regard. Accordingly, in the year 
 1798, Doctor Van der Kemp, a respectable physician of Hol- 
 land, who had devoted himself to the arduous and honourable 
 office of a Christian Missionary to the Heathen, went forth from 
 England under the auspices of the Society, accompanied by 
 Mr. Kicherer and other pious men. Not succeeding in the 
 establishment of a mission among the Caffres whom he first 
 visited, he removed to Bethelsdorp near Algoa Bay, where, with 
 the assistance of Mr. Read and others, he formed a settlement. 
 To this spot he was directed by the Governor of the Colony, 
 (General Jansens,) who granted a portion of land, with cattle, 
 and other requisites for the accomplishment of the object. Here 
 a considerable village was formed, the knowledge of useful arts 
 was introduced, and, as the primary object, the gospel of Jesus 
 Christ was preached, and religious instruction afforded ; so that, 
 by the Divine blessing, a great number of the degraded Hot- 
 tentots became sincere Christians and useful members of 
 society. The progress and present state of this settlement will 
 appear in the following pages.
 
 ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 By the diligent and zealous efforts of Dr. Van der Kemp, 
 Messrs. Kicherer, Anderson, Read, Ulbricht, Albrecht, and 
 other missionaries, the same plan was adopted in several other 
 parts of South Africa, particularly at Zak River, Klaar Water, 
 near the Great or Orange River, and in the Great and Lesser 
 Namacqua countries. Considerable success, though in various 
 degrees, crowned their labours. 
 
 At length it pleased God to remove by death that valuable 
 man who superintended the African missions; when the 
 Directors thought it expedient to request one of their own 
 body, the Rev. John Campbell, to visit the country, personally 
 to inspect the different settlements, and to establish such regu- 
 lations, in concurrence with Mr. Read and the other mission- 
 aries, as might be most conducive to the attainment of the great 
 end proposed — the conversion of the heathen, keeping in view 
 at the same time the promotion of their civilization. 
 
 Mr. Campbell readily undertook the arduous task. He 
 sailed from England June 24, 1812, and arrived at the Cape 
 on the 24th of October. 
 
 After obtaining from his Excellency Sir John Cradock, 
 letters of introduction to the several Landdrosts through whose 
 districts he had occasion to pass, as well as all needful informa- 
 tion from the Colonial Secretary, Henry Alexander, Esq. re- 
 specting the former communications of the missionaries with 
 the government of the Cape, Mr. Campbell proceeded first 
 to Bethelsdorp, about five hundred miles west of the Cape; 
 from thence, northward to Graaf Reynet, then to Griqua 
 town, and from thence to Lattakoo, a populous city scarcely 
 known to Europeans : he afterwards visited several tribes of 
 people, some of whom had never before seen a white man ; seve- 
 ral of their cliiefs expressed their readiness to receive christian
 
 ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 instructors. Mr. Campbell then returned to Griqua town, and 
 from thence travelled southward, parallel with the west coast 
 of Africa, till, after a laborious and perilous journey of nine 
 months, he reached Cape-town in health and safety. 
 
 Having obtained the great objects of his journey, and settled 
 the aftairs of the Society in a satisfactory manner, Mr. Campbell 
 sailed for England in the Brig Venus, Captain Kilgour, on the 
 13th of February, and arrived at Plymouth on the 4th of May, 
 1814. He immediately pressed forward to London, and ar- 
 rived just in time to be present at the Anniversary Meeting of 
 the Society, when he had an opportunity of gratifying numerous 
 assemblies with a general account of his proceedings. He was 
 received by the Society with grateful pleasure, and the warmest 
 thanks of the body were voted to him with perfect unanimity. 
 
 By the earnest request of the Society, Mr. Campbell was 
 prevailed upon to transcribe for the press the substance of his 
 journal ; and the volume is now presented to the public as a 
 memorial of his diligence, fortitude, and prudence. It is hoped 
 that the \york will be perused, not only by the Members of the 
 Society, but by every Christian Philanthropist, with pleasure 
 and advantage. 
 
 By order of the Directors. 
 London, Dec. 22. 1814.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Voyage to the Cape of Good Hope 1 
 
 CHAP. n. 
 Cape-town — Groene Kloof •• 5 
 
 CHAP. HI. 
 Stellenbosch 13 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Journey to the Moravian settlement, at Genadendal, or 
 
 Bavian's Kloof — Caledon, formerly Zwarteberg • . 22 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 Journey to Bethelsdorp — Occurrences in travelling to 
 George, with visits to Zurebrak and Hoghe, Hot- 
 tentot kraals 33 
 
 CHAP. VI. and VII. 
 Occurrences in travelling from George to Bethelsdorp. • 63 
 
 CHAP. VIll. 
 Occurrences and investigations at Bethelsdorp ...... 95 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 Departure from Bethelsdorp — Travels in Albany — 
 
 Arrival at Graham's town • 131 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Departure from Graham's town — Visit to various mili- 
 tary posts — Interview with a CafFre family — Ar- 
 rival at Graaf Reynet • « 159
 
 CONTENTS. xi 
 
 CHAP. XL 
 
 Page. 
 
 Occurrences at Graaf Reynet, and during a journey in 
 
 Sueuberg — Arrival at the boundary of the Colony 172 
 
 CHAP. XH. 
 Journey across the Bushmen's country 187 
 
 CHAP. XHI. 
 Arrival at the Great River — Bern's Kraal — Travelling 
 on the banks of the Great River — Bushman bap- 
 tized — Crossing river » . 206 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 Journey beyond the Great River — Arrival at Klaar 
 
 Water, or Griqua town — Journey to Lattakoo •• 220 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 Arrival at the city of Lattakoo — Our reception — Mur- 
 der of Dr. Cowan and party — Meeting with the 
 chief men — Visit to different parts of the city • . . . 245 
 
 CHAP. XVL 
 
 Strange method of softening skins —Festival — Articles 
 manufactured — City districts — Female painting — 
 Conversation with the king's uncle — Makrakka, a 
 neighbouring Chief • 2.53 
 
 CHAP. XVH. 
 
 Public shews — Messengers return without the king — 
 
 Further accounts of Dr. Cowan's murder • 26 1 
 
 CHAP. XVHL 
 
 Looking-glass excites wonder — Queen objects to our 
 leaving the town — Endeavour to make the queen 
 understand the use of writing and printing — Her 
 inquiries — Afraid of a watch — Population of the 
 city — Sehoiya — Lattakoo wells 270 
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 
 Mateere's expedition — News of the king's approach — 
 His arrival — List of Matchappee kings, &c — First 
 interview with the king — He asks for a gun — Din- 
 ing of the royal family — Public meeting with the 
 king and his people — A frolic — King's account of 
 
 Cowan's murder 2§0 
 
 b 2
 
 xii CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. XX. 
 
 Page. 
 
 An Account of countries beyond Lattakoo, received 
 
 from Mateebe and others 297 
 
 CHAP. XXI. 
 Departure from Lattakoo - SOG 
 
 CHAP. xxn. 
 
 Journey beyond the Great River — From Lattakoo to 
 
 Malapeetzee 310 
 
 CHAP. xxni. 
 
 Malapeetzee — Interview with the natives — Their ac- 
 count of Dr. Cowan's murder 318 
 
 CHAP. XXIV. 
 
 Departure from Malapeetzee — Come in sight of the 
 River Malalareen — Makoon's Kraal — Travel along 
 the Malalareen — Arrive at a Griqua village 324 
 
 CHAP. XXV. 
 
 Arrival at the Great River — Deliverance from lions •• 332 
 
 CHAP. XXVI. 
 
 Visit to the Great Fountain — Account of Bailey — 
 Bootchuana dance — Coranna kraal — Junction of 
 the Alexander and Cradock Rivers with the Yellow 
 or Great River— Arrival at Griqua town 337 
 
 CHAP. XXVII. 
 
 A murder — Insanity — Camel-leopard killed — Caffre 
 method of attack — Bushmen on Yellow River — 
 Griquaas resolve to adopt laws — Laws approved — 
 Resolve to contribute to Society's funds — To have 
 money coined 345 
 
 CHAP. XXVIII. 
 Number of people in Griqua Land — Church school — 
 
 Waggons — Trades 353 
 
 CHAP. XXIX. 
 
 Visit Hardcastle — Asbestos Mountains — Rowland-Hill- 
 
 orp — Crossing the Great River 338
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. XXX. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Impediments — Our motley company — Pass a Coranna 
 kraal — Escape from a lion — Filps Kraal — Whirl- 
 wind — Huinian's Kraal '• 377 
 
 CHAP. XXXI, 
 
 Departure from Huiman's Kraal — Obstructions — Ox 
 Riding — Kok's Kraal of Orlams, &,c — List of dif- 
 ferent Coranna tribes — Koker tree .'j;88 
 
 CHAP. XXXII. 
 
 Departure from Kok's Kraal — Assemblage of rocks — 
 In difficulty — Hottentots drink poison of snake — 
 Escape from lions — Singular nests — Wild Bush- 
 men shoot a Hottentot and capture our cattle — 
 Steps taken — Regain our cattle — Hottentot dies — 
 Joined by Namacqua missionary — Arrival at Pella 396 
 
 CHAP. XXXIII. 
 
 Occurrences at Pella — Excursion — Singular disease 
 
 among sheep 424 
 
 CHAP. XXXIV. 
 
 Account of Great Namacqua country 426 
 
 CHAP. XXXV. 
 
 Account of Damara country 432 
 
 CHAP. XXXVI. 
 Nations beyond Damara 435 
 
 CHAP. XXXVII. 
 
 Departure from Pella — Crossing a desert — Arrival at 
 water — Reach Silver Fountain — Conduct of scor- 
 pions — Cure of sting — Death of Mrs, Sass • • • • 443 
 
 CHAP. XXXVIII. 
 
 Leave Silver Fountain — Meet a boor — Knew nothing 
 of the state of Europe — Reach first house in the 
 Colony — Come in sight of Ethiopic Ocean — 
 Mosambique slave — Great heat — Bad water • • • • 455
 
 xiv CONTENTS. 
 
 Page. 
 
 CHAP. XXXIX. 
 Arrival at Elephants' River — At Vanzail's Place — Deep 
 sand — Cedar Mountain — Anecdote of bees — Deep 
 sand — Female slave 466 
 
 CHAP. XL. 
 
 Arrival at Tulbach — Rodezand — Zwartland — Animals 
 
 killed on the journey — Return to Cape-town • • • • 477 
 
 CHAP. XLI. 
 Occurrences after return to Cape-town 487 
 
 CHAP. XLH. 
 Voyage to England 496 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. I. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 Miscellaneous Account of Caffraria — Religion — Man- 
 ners — Sickness — Hunting 514 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Traditions — Amusements — Punishments, &c. 518 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Dress — Subsistence — Property — Houses— Animals • • 520 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Caffre king — Grosvenor Indiaman — Gika asks rain — 
 
 Caflfre chiefs 5'15 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Origin of the Caffre war with the English 530 
 
 No. II. 
 History of Africaner, a plundering Chief on the Great 
 
 River 534 
 
 No. III. 
 Account of Stephanas, an impostor 538 
 
 No. IV. 
 Account of John Bloom, an African robber 539
 
 CONTENTS. XV 
 
 rage. 
 
 No. V. 
 ISLAND OF MADAGASCAR. 
 CHAP. I. 
 Situation — Extent — Productions — Character of the na- 
 tives 54 1 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Religion — ^Treatment of the aged — Matrimony — Cere- 
 monies relating to children — War — Commerce — 
 Slaves, 8cc 549 
 
 No. VI. 
 Account of the Isle of France 554 
 
 No. VII. 
 The Lord's Prayer in the Hottentot and the Coranna 
 
 languages — Namacqua words and phrases 559 
 
 No. VIII. 
 Provisional Church Regulations for the Batavian Colony 
 
 at the Cape of Good Hope 562 
 
 No. IX. 
 Inquiries 566 
 
 No. X. 
 Missionaries in South Africa 568 
 
 No. XI. 
 Statement of the Population, &c. of the Cape of Good 
 
 Hope in 1810 569 
 
 No. XII. 
 Unsolicited contributions received during the journey in 
 
 aid of it 570 
 
 No. XIII. 
 Remarks on Mr. Lichtenstein's Observations respecting 
 
 the Missionaries in Africa 573 
 
 No. XIV. 
 Remarks on " Journal of a Residence in India" 576 
 
 No. XV. 
 Letter from Mr. Schmelen, Namacqualand 679
 
 INDEX TO PLATES. 
 
 Page. 
 Frontispiece. 
 
 Map of South Africa. Sig. b T^ 
 
 Bethelsdorp 95 
 
 Palace of Mateebe at Lattakoo 245 
 
 - Negotiating with the king, &c. at Lattakoo ib. 
 
 View to westward of Lattakoo ib. 
 
 '^ Bootchuana ornaments and utensils 304 
 
 i' Bootchuana weapons ib. 
 
 (junction of the Yellow and Cradock River 342 
 
 (Junction of the Yellow and Alexander Rivers ib. 
 
 "^ View of Griqua-town 221 
 
 'Two nests built and inhabited by many birds 362 
 
 x "i Hardcastle in Griqua Country ib. 
 
 ' South entrance to Silver Fountain Valley ib. 
 
 Flip's Coranna Kraal on the Great River 382 
 
 Building a Coranna Kraal ib. 
 
 Hans Huimans Coranna Kraal ib. 
 
 "Meeting-house, and Mr. Albricht's house, Pella 41 6 
 
 ' , The houses of Messrs. Ebner and Helm, Pella ib. 
 
 Mountains in Namacqua Country ib. 
 
 Plate IV. 
 
 Bootchuana Ornaments and Utensils. 
 
 1 aad 2. Arm liugs made from Elephants' 
 
 teeth. 
 3. Copper rings for arms and above the knee. 
 4 and 5. Copper rings. 
 6. Many rings nnited. 
 7 and 8. Breastplates. 
 
 9. Necklace. 
 
 10. Middle lace composed of slices of small 
 
 I'ones. 
 
 11. Ear plates. 
 
 12. Ear rings. 
 
 13. Elephant's loolb, part cut into rings. 
 
 14. 15, 16. Wooden vessels for hoUliog water. 
 17 and 18. Ditto ditto for eating meat from, 
 
 19. Milk pot. 
 
 20. Leather milk holder. 
 
 21. Ditto before being sewed. 
 
 22. Corn holder made of clay sis or seven 
 
 feet high. 
 
 23. Lid or cover to ditto. 
 
 24. Clay pot. 
 
 Plate V. 
 Bootchuana Weapons. 
 
 1. Bushman's bow. 
 
 2, 3, 4. Ditto arrows. 
 
 5. Ditto quivers. 
 
 6. Bootchuana knife. 
 
 7. Case of ditto. 
 
 8. Whistle. 
 
 9. Dice. 
 
 10. Horn for holding grease for rubbmg over 
 
 the body. 
 11 and 12. Needle and case. 
 
 13. Club for defence made of a rhinoceros 
 
 horn. 
 
 14. Pick axe for digging. 
 
 15. Axe. 
 
 16. 17, 18, 19,20, 21, Different kinds of a*. 
 
 sagays or spears about six feet long. 
 
 Erratum in Plate IV. and V. far Bootebmana read Bootchuana.
 
 Ma
 
 1
 
 TRAVELS, &c. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 vJN the twenty-fourth of June, 1812, accompanied 
 by my friend Mr. George Tiiom, a Missionary, then 
 intended for Calcutta, I went on board the Isabella 
 at Gravesend, commanded by Captain Peache. In 
 consequence of a gale of wind, we were under the 
 necessity of going into Portsmouth to repair the 
 vessel, where we remained until the 8th of July, 
 when we set sail with a fair wind. On the 26th we 
 passed the Canary islands, where the plague at that 
 time was carrying off many of the inhabitants. We 
 had a view of the famous Peak of TenerifF, whose 
 head rose majestically above the clouds. On the 3d 
 of August we came in sight of Bonavista, one of the 
 Cape de Verd islands; and on the evening of the 
 5th we cast anchor oft' Port Praya, in the island of 
 St. Jago. Next morning we went on shore. While 
 there we visited the Roman CathoUc priest, who treated 
 
 B
 
 2 VOYAGE TO THE CAPE. [1812. 
 
 US with much civility. He shewed us his library, which 
 he kept in a chest, but in which the volume of in- 
 spiration was not to be found : on perceiving this, 
 Mr. Thorn promised him a New Testament in the 
 Portuguese language when we came next on shore, 
 which he expressed a willingness to receive. 
 
 We left Port Praya on the lOdi of August and 
 crossed the Line on the 2 1st, when the usual formalities 
 were minutely attended to by the seamen. On the 
 11th of October, when in the full expectation of 
 reaching Cape town on the succeeding day, the wind 
 clianged to the S. E. and blew directly against us with 
 so much violence as to raise the sea mountain-high. 
 The day following it blew with redoubled fury, which 
 obliged us to lay to under a reefed topsail and gib, 
 driving away from our port. On the 14th the sea 
 continued tremendously awful; about three o'clock in 
 the morning we were almost upset by a dreadful sea 
 breaking over us: the tumbhng of chairs, and the 
 rattling of plates and glasses, prevented all sleep. 
 When prepai'ing for breakfast, a sea, with a sound 
 like thunder, broke upon the vessel, and strewed the 
 floor with our shattered tea things. Perhaps of all 
 scenes which the human eye has an opportunity of 
 beholding, such a storm, in such a latitude, is the 
 most grand, majestic, and awful. In the evening the 
 storm began to abate. On the following day, at noon, 
 we found the storm had driven us more than a hundred 
 miles beyond the latitude of the Cape, and two hun- 
 dred miles further to the westward in londtude. At
 
 5UNE.] VOYAGE TO THE CAPE. S 
 
 noon we were able to direct our course once more 
 towards the Cape; but on the 17th, when within 
 about a hundred miles of it, violent squalls from the 
 S. E. drove us out to sea again : that evenincr the sea 
 rose and raged as high and furious as ever. About 
 nine o'clock the elements seemed conspiring to 
 effect our destruction, which produced a very serious 
 meeting for prayer in the cabin, for our preservation 
 from the fury of the raging storm. During prayer 
 the violent heaving of the ship rendered it almost 
 impossible to remain in one posture. Every cup 
 and saucer we had in use was broken to pieces. At 
 one, next morning, a powerful sea broke over the 
 stern, and came rushing down into our cabin : when 
 at breakfast the same thing was repeated. On the 
 20th our allowance of water was a second time 
 reduced. On the 21st. at five, P. M. a seaman from 
 the mast-head descried land, which on the following 
 day we found to be the south side of the entrance 
 to Saldanha bay. Having seen no land for ten weeks, 
 the sight was peculiarly gratifying. At eleven, A. M. 
 Table Mountain, which stands immediately behind 
 Cape-town, was seen from the deck. On the 23d, at 
 two o'clock in the morning, a squall, which lasted 
 three hours, drove us again out to sea ; but at noon the 
 wind becoming favourable, we were brought by the 
 evening within eighteen miles of our port, and next 
 morning at ten A.M. by the good providence of God, 
 we cast anchor in Table Bay, opposite to Cape-town ; 
 exactly four months after sailing from Gravesend. I 
 went ashore with my good friend Mr. Kenneth 
 
 B 2
 
 4 VOYAGE TO THE CAPE. [1812. 
 
 Duncan, merchant in Cape-town, and was kindly re- 
 ceived as an inmate under the hospitable roof of his 
 father-in-law Mr. Oncruydt, President of the Burgher 
 Senate. Various occurrences took place during the 
 first eight or ten days after my arrival, with a recital 
 of which, it is unnecessary to trouble the public.
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 CAPE-TOWN— GROENE KLOOF. 
 
 IVlR. Kicherer, minister, from Graaf Reynet, who 
 had not been in Cape-town for two or three years, 
 arrived on the fourth of November, and I was glad to 
 have the opportunity of consulting him about my in- 
 tended journey into the interior. He advised me very 
 seriously to put it off till the sultry summer months 
 should be over, as he thought my constitution, which 
 had been weakened by the tropical heats, would not 
 be able to endure the fatigue. Mr. Bakker, of Stel- 
 lenbosch, who had also come to town, was of the same 
 opinion, and both advised me to retire to Stellenbosch, 
 about twenty -five miles distant, as soon as my business 
 in Cape-town should be finished. From thence I could 
 take short journies, which would prepare me for the 
 great one. The advice commending itself to my judg- 
 ment, I resolved to follow it. 
 
 I had frequent opportunities of consulting with 
 Mr. Kicherer on various points while he remained in 
 town, which afforded me much satisfaction. He 
 brought with him Martha, who formerly accompanied
 
 CAPE-TOWN. [1812. 
 
 him on his visit to England, and her repHes to various 
 questions I proposed on subjects of a rehgious nature, 
 pleased me much. 
 
 T received a particular account of two earthquakes 
 of a peculiarly terrific nature, which occurred some 
 time before my arrival. The places of worship were 
 but thinly attended before these earthquakes took 
 place, but now they are crowded. The small-pox 
 coming into the colony immediately after, was a re- 
 markable visitation of God ; for like a plague, it 
 spared neither old nor young, but swept them away as 
 a besom of destruction, so that churches, coffee-houses, 
 the theatre, and shops, were all shut up. A white flag 
 was required to be suspended from houses in which 
 the disease prevailed, and persons coming from them 
 were obliged to wear a white ribbon round their arm. 
 These awful providences led many to their bibles and 
 to their knees before God, foi* which they will thank 
 God for ever. 
 
 We received a licence from the government to 
 preach while we remained in the colony, and having 
 obtained from the Cape Society the use of the Great 
 Meeting-house, we began preaching there, attended 
 chiefly by soldiers of the 93d and 83d regiments, with 
 some from the 2 1 st light dragoons, to the number of 
 three or four hundred. 
 
 Mahometanism is greatly on the increase in Cape- 
 town. They have, I believe, five mosques, where they
 
 NOV.] CAPE-TOWN. 
 
 assemble for their worship. About twenty free Ma- 
 hometans club together, and rent a large house, to 
 which they invite poor ignorant slaves to gain them 
 over to their party. By this method an alarming 
 number have been persuaded to join them, and ren- 
 dered ten times more prejudiced against truth, and 
 against all white people, or persons called Christians, 
 than they were before. The masters say that such 
 houses are dens of thieves, and receptacles of goods 
 which the slaves steal from them. Perhaps this cir- 
 cumstance may induce masters to attend better to the 
 instruction of their slaves, which may ultimately prove 
 a blessing and a security to the colony. In general, 
 the slaves are treated with tenderness in Cape-town. 
 In the house where I lodged they are treated as if they 
 were their own children, and most of them would be 
 sorry to leave the family. Their children are put to 
 school, and play about the room where the family sit 
 at their meals with as much freedom, and receive as 
 much attention as if they were their own children — 
 but they are slaves ! a condition which shocks human 
 nature. All the children of a female slave are the 
 property of her master, whether the father be bond or 
 free ; of course it is the interest of the master to see 
 that even the mother treats the child well, on the same 
 principle on which the farmer takes care of his young 
 foals, because by their death, or their disease, he be- 
 comes a loser. Slaves are not permitted to marry, 
 which is not only an act of great injustice towards 
 them, but a heinous sin against God. There are.
 
 CAPE-TOWN. [1812. 
 
 however, many slaves who consider themselves, by 
 their own mutual consent, husbands and wives. 
 
 A slave ship containing many slaves from Mada- 
 gascar and Mosambique, was lately captured by one 
 of our cruizers. The slaves were landed at Cape- 
 town, and apprenticed to masters for fourteen years, 
 who are bound by agreement to treat them well, to 
 teach them a trade, and to instruct them in reading 
 and in the principles of the Christian religion; all 
 which in some cases will be performed. I visited a 
 school of twenty of these strangers, entirely supported 
 by Commissioner Shiels. They all appeared to be 
 from eighteen to twenty-four years of age. Several of 
 them read the new testament tolerably well, and 
 repeated questions from Watts's catechism. On the 
 Lord's day they are well dressed in a kind of uniform, 
 and attend the church. I have no doubt that their 
 temporary captivity will not only be a blessing to 
 themselves, but also to their country, should they ever 
 return. 
 
 On the 10th, at four o'clock in the morning, a party 
 of us set off on a visit to the Moravian settlement at 
 Groene Kloof, thirty-five miles from Cape-town. The 
 morning was cool and pleasant. The sun rose bcauti- 
 lully from behind Tiger Mountain as we were leaving 
 the town. Many people were walking about, the 
 morning being the best time for taking exercise ; the 
 succeeding part of the day in summer being too hot for 
 much exertion. After travelling about ten miles we
 
 NOV.] CAPE-TOWN. 9 
 
 halted to take breakfast among the bushes. The whole 
 country in every direction was covered with bushes full 
 of beauty, though at a distance all appeared heath. 
 ]\Iany of the plants are such as we are accustomed in 
 England to see in green-houses. We killed a black 
 snake, measuring five feet and a half in length, and 
 about six inches in circumference in the middle. The 
 strokes by which he was killed were all aimed at his 
 head, which the creature seemed to know was his most 
 vulnerable part, for he put it under his breast. At six, 
 P.M. we arrived at the settlement, which stands among 
 trees, the first we had seen after leaving Cape-town. 
 The brethren received us very kindly. After an 
 early supper we retired to the chapel, where nearly 
 a hundred Hottentots were assembled^ sitting in a 
 serious manner, the males at one end, the females at 
 the other. After remaining in silence for a minute or 
 more, Mr. Smit commenced the service by singing 
 a hymn, in which the Hottentots instantly joined in a 
 pleasant and apparently devout manner. Mr. S. then 
 read a portion of scripture, from which he gave an 
 address, and spoke much of the Saviour ; after singing 
 another hymn, all retired. 
 
 11th. We rose about five o'clock and walked about 
 the premises till breakfast, after which we attended a 
 meeting with the young people, when the service was 
 much the same as before. INIr. Bonatz gave the ad- 
 dress. We visited every Hottentot family in the settle- 
 ment, about forty in number. Their houses, though 
 mean huts, were clean, their dress upon the whole 
 
 c
 
 10 CAPE-TOWN. [1817. 
 
 was decent, though there were exceptions. Some 
 being asked, what they should do if their teachers were 
 to return to Europe, said, they would follow them — 
 others, that they should not be able to live. We 
 observed one young Hottentot weeping — being asked 
 the reason, she said, she could not but weep when she 
 thought of people coming from such a far country to 
 see poor Hottentots. In the cool of the evening I 
 visited Mr. Smit's carpenters shop; when standing 
 before it, he pointed to a spot on a neighbouring hill, 
 where twelve months ago about forty of them had gone 
 to hunt wolves, which had committed various depre- 
 dations among the sheep. While searching for them, 
 a tyger sprang from a bush and seized one of the 
 Hottentots by the forehead. " I could not leave the 
 Hottentot to be killed," said he, " therefore I went 
 with my gun to shoot the tyger — on observing me, 
 he left the Hottentot and attacked me — my gun was 
 useless, for he caught my arm in his mouth in a 
 moment, having directed my elbow towards him to 
 defend my face. I held his throat down with my 
 other hand, with my knee on his belly, and called 
 out to the Hottentots to come to my assistance. 
 -^When they heard I was in danger, they ventured 
 their lives to save mine: they came running, and 
 one of them shot him dead; and we brought home 
 his skin." His teeth went to the very bone of 
 Mr. Smit's arm, and it was a long time before 
 he recovered. We saw the Hottentot who was first 
 attacked, he carries the mark of the tyger s tusks in 
 his forehead, and will do so all his days. We drank
 
 NOV.] CAPE-TOWN. li 
 
 tea in a thicket of trees near the house, which was re- 
 freshingly cool, during which about a dozen girls read 
 the scriptures and sang a hynin. 
 
 In the evening we had a meeting in the chapel ; the 
 service as before. On returning to the mission-house, 
 we united in prayer for success to the mission at 
 Groene Kloof. 
 
 On the 12th we all rose at four o'clock in the 
 morning; had coffee with the brethren and their 
 wives, who appear helps-meet ; after which we got 
 into our waggon, when a few Hottentot females 
 sang a hymn, which was a prayer for us, when we 
 took leave. On clearing the thicket and passing the 
 end of the village, we found about forty Hottentots 
 in a group, who sang a farewell hymn, which we 
 answered by singing, " Praise God from whom all 
 blessings flow, &c." The whole looked as if we had got 
 back to the Paradisiacal age. Dreadful must be the 
 wickedness of that part of the world where such insti- 
 tutions could be opposed. Great good they may do, 
 but harm they cannot do. The government of the 
 colony, to their honour, have been kind to them. The 
 poor Hottentots, in their own way, all bid us farewell, 
 which was returned, and not by any one without 
 emotion. They stood looking after us as long as we 
 were in sight. 
 
 On our return to Cape-town, we found that Mr. 
 and Mrs. Sass, missionaries from Silver Fountain, had
 
 12 CAPE-TOWN. 1812.} 
 
 arrived, with old Captain Kok, from the same place ; 
 with whom we had much conversation about the state 
 of things there. 
 
 On the 17th I visited, in the morning, Mrs. Smit's 
 free school for slaves, which meets two or three times 
 a week, and contains about 150 people, black and 
 brown, from six to thirty years of age. Mrs. Smit 
 sat on an elevation in the centre of the meeting-house, 
 where she teaches to read, leads the singing, and con- 
 cludes the service by a solemn prayer. Several ladies, 
 and three or four males, assisted in the instruction of 
 the scholars.
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 STELLENBOSCH. 
 
 XJ.AVING finished what business I had in Cape- 
 town, 1 left it at five o'clock in the morning, Nov. 21, 
 for Stellenbosch, to remain there till the hot weather 
 should be over. I travelled with my friend Mr. 
 Duncan in the post-waggon, drawn by ten horses. 
 Though great part of the road was over deep sand, 
 yet we were drawn by small, high-spirited, African 
 horses, about six miles an hour. We observed no cul- 
 tivation, except on the side of Tiger Mountain, till we 
 came to Mynheer Jansen s, the half-way house, where 
 we halted to take breakfast, which consisted of cold 
 salted mutton, hot roast lamb, ham, eggs, and tea. 
 The master, mistress, and slaves could speak English; 
 and all were attentive to their company, for which they 
 paid a rix-dollar, or four shillings currency, a head. 
 
 The remaining half of the road not being so sandy, 
 we had only eight horses, but we had to ascend a con- 
 siderable hill, up which the horses went at full gallop, 
 as is customary throughout the colony. On the hill 
 are several good farm-houses, surrounded by fields;
 
 14 STELLENBOSCH. [1812. 
 
 but the crops were so thin, that English farmers would 
 hardly be at the trouble to cut them down. They con- 
 sisted chiefly of wheat. We reached Stellenbosch by 
 eleven, A.M. where we were kindly received by Mr. 
 and Mrs. Kuyper, under whose friendly roof I was to 
 remain. After dinner Mr. Duncan returned to Cape- 
 town in a hired waggon, for which they demanded 
 thirty rix-dollars. I visited our missionary Mr. Bakker 
 in the evening. He instructs poor slaves, both on the 
 sabbath and through the week. He told us that that 
 day nine and twenty years, a man of war, in which he 
 was, after being almost a wreck by a long storm, sunk 
 in the ocean off the coast of America, when, out of 
 three hundred men, only about forty were saved, by 
 getting in boats on board another vessel. 
 
 The town of Stellenbosch stands at the head of a 
 valley surrounded by mountains, some of which are 
 extremely high, and carrying rugged tops. Most of 
 the houses are built apart, with gardens behind : the 
 houses have much carved work in front, and like those 
 ill Cape-town, are all painted white as snow. The 
 streets have a row of oak trees on each side, to shelter 
 from the heat of summer. 
 
 22nd. At half past two o'clock I attended Mr. 
 Bakker's slave meeting, which was a very interesting 
 one. They met in a large room in his house. About 
 180 were present, the majority of whom were females. 
 Some had very interesting countenances, indicating 
 much mind ; others discovered very little. The ser-
 
 NOV.] STELLENBOSCH. 15 
 
 vice began by Mrs. B^ reading a chapter of scripture. 
 Mr. B. then gave out a psakn, after which Mr. 
 Kicherer addressed them. Every one seemed to hang 
 on his h'ps : one was singularly earnest in listening, 
 which attracted Mr. Kicherer's attention so much as 
 to induce him, in the middle of his discourse, to ask 
 him two or three questions about Jesus, which he 
 answered with a pleasing smile on his sable face. The 
 slaves sung as well as the people called christians, 
 which means, in South Africa, white people. Several 
 came to Mr. K. after he retired, and spake about 
 Jesus: one female spoke with peculiar fervour, re- 
 gardless of all about her. The scene was a sermon to 
 nie. Though I understood none of her expressions, 
 yet her gestures enabled me to conjecture what she 
 might be sa3dng. 
 
 23d. I inquired respecting the slave who had 
 answered Mr. K. during his discourse, when I was in- 
 formed that he had long been an excellent christian: 
 that formerly his master would not permit him to attend 
 Mr. Bakker, and one day assured him he would flog 
 him if he went. The poor slave, with christian gentle- 
 ness, said in reply, " I must tell the Lord that." The 
 saying so wrought upon his master's mind, that he not 
 only permitted him to go, but likewise all the slaves 
 in his house; and yesterday this gentleman and his 
 lady attended the slave meeting themselves. This slave 
 thanks God for bringing him from Mosambique, his 
 native country.
 
 l6 STELLENBOSCII. 1812.] 
 
 Mr. B. related the following history of the female 
 who addressed Mr. K. after the service : *' She lives 
 at a distance in the country. About three weeks ago 
 she made her first appearance at his meeting. His 
 sermon respected the strayed sheep. When he had 
 finished, she came forward and confessed she was that 
 strayed sheep, and asked further instruction concerning 
 Jesus Christ. She confessed she had often spoken 
 against the slave meeting, but added, she loved it 
 now. On the following sabbath she said, Jesus at first 
 brought her to himself, but she must come to him 
 every day, wicked and unworthy as she was. She at- 
 tends regularly and hears attentively. 
 
 "When visiting our missionary, Mr. Messer, who 
 lives with ]\lr. Rose, a farmer about five miles from Stel- 
 lenbosch, instructing his and the neighbouring slaves, 
 I discovered what I did not expect. Mr. Newton, 
 late rector of St. Mary Woolnoth, many years ago 
 sent me a little volume, entitled, " Seven Letters from 
 
 a foreign Clergyman to Mr. N n, and translated 
 
 from the original Latin by Mr. Cowper ;" but who, or 
 where the clergyman resided, was concealed. I dis- 
 covered that this clergyman was Helperus Ritzema 
 van Lier, minister of the Reformed Church at Cape- 
 town, South Africa, where he died March 17th, 1793, 
 aged twenty-eight years and five months. A little be- 
 fore his death, being informed by his physician that 
 his departure was at hand, he exclaimed, "Triumph! 
 " Triumph ! Triumph ! Blessed be God, I have over- 
 " come through the blood of the Lamb! Hallelujah !
 
 NOV.] STELLENBOSCH. 17 
 
 " Hallelujah ! Hallelujah !" Having said this, his spirit 
 fled from his worn out body to the immortal world. 
 
 From Mr. Burchers, minister of Stellenbosch, I 
 received the following account of the first of two earth- 
 quakes, which occurred here three years ago. 
 
 " The church at Paarl, about eight miles distant, 
 was then vacant. The governor desired me to preach 
 once a month there. On a Saturday before setting off 
 to that place, I felt exceedingly dull and indolent. 
 On Sabbath morning my wife and I went to Paarl. 
 On reaching it I felt very feeble, and asked for some 
 water, but could not drink it, for it was luke-warm. 
 They said it was brought from the fountain. I sent 
 my own slave to the fountain, hut what he brought 
 was warm also. I went myself, and found it the same. 
 We could not account for this. While preaching, I 
 found myself so dull, I hardly knew what I said. I 
 mentioned my feelings to some of the people after ser- 
 mon, who said they felt in the same way. Next morn' 
 ing we returned to Stellenbosch. All day my family, 
 myself and slaves, and even the dogs, were unwell. 
 
 " At ten o'clock at ni«;ht we were all alarmed with 
 a noise resembling; that of a thousand waggons running 
 along the streets. We did not know what it was, but 
 my family were terrified. A great light shone into the 
 room. Supposing it had been thunder, I told them not 
 to be afraid, for the danger was over, the lij^htning be- 
 ing gone. While talking, the same noise as before was 
 
 D
 
 18 STELLENBOSCH. [1812. 
 
 repeated, and every thing shook. Oh ! said I, it is an 
 earthquake : come all out of the house into the garden. 
 We felt as if there had been no life in us, as the scrip- 
 ture expresses it. There was then a third shock, which 
 was inferior to the former two. The noise was not 
 only awful, because of its loudness, but also from the 
 nature of the sound — it was a kind of melancholy 
 groan or howl. The dogs and birds shewed, by their 
 noise, that they were terrified, which added to the 
 horror of that night, The night was very still ; there 
 was no wind, but I observed a great number of little 
 fiery meteors. I noticed some little clouds, in different 
 directions, like thunder-clouds, but they had something 
 new in their aspect. The people came all flocking to 
 me in the garden, much alarmed. I said what I could 
 to support their minds. At length we ventured again 
 into our house, when we tried to get a little sleep to 
 refresh us, but we tried in vain." 
 
 December 23. Went to Cape-town, to obtain in- 
 formation respecting the island of Madagascar, to 
 which the Society are anxious to send a mission. I 
 got considerable information from Messrs. Oncruydt 
 and Truter, who had both been there; the former 
 twice, the latter once. Mr. Oncruydt, among other 
 things, related the following anecdote. 
 
 A French ship had been stranded on the west coast 
 of Madagascar about twelve months before the arrival 
 of Mr. Oncruydt. The captain, officers, and men, 
 had resided all that time with the natives. On seeing
 
 BEc] CAPE-TOWN. i<f 
 
 the Dutch ship arrive at the mouth of the river, 
 
 M. the captain, and crevi^, came off to her, 
 
 and solicited a passage to the Cape, to which Mr. O. 
 as supercargo, and the captain consented. They 
 clothed the Frenchmen, and went ashore with them 
 to the king. They soon reached a considerable town, 
 where an officer, called the second king, resided. By 
 him they were well received, and sent off with a num- 
 ber of attendants to the first king. They came to a 
 broad and rapid river, but seeing neither bridge nor 
 boat, they looked at each other, wondering how they 
 should get across. They had two chests, full of pre- 
 sents for the king. Six men took up one of the chests, 
 went with it into the water, three on one side and 
 three on the other, and suspended it above water, by 
 each applying one of his hands to it. In this way they 
 carried it over perfectly dry : — in the same way they 
 carried over the other chest, and all the Dutch and 
 French who were in the company. One of the sailors, 
 not choosing to be carried over in so awkward a man- 
 ner, stripped off his clothes, and tying them about his 
 head, jumped into the water and swam towards the 
 other side ; but on coming to the middle of the river, 
 the current was too strong for him, so that he was car- 
 ried down before it, and would certainly have been 
 drowned had not some of the natives gone to his 
 assistance. Soon after crossing the river they arrived 
 at the town where the king resided, which was con- 
 siderably larger than the one they had seen before. 
 On being introduced to the king, he expressed his 
 surprise at seeing the Frenchmen all well clothed. 
 
 D 2
 
 20 CAPE-TOWN. [1812. 
 
 When, on inquiry, he found they had received these 
 clothes from the Dutch, who were of a different 
 nation from them, he was still more surprised, and 
 looking to his attendants, who stood in a row behind, 
 said, " Mark this : these do not belong to the same 
 nation with the French, yet you see they give them 
 clothes ; learn to do so too." A house and attend- 
 ants were provided for them all by the king, where 
 they lived very comfortably for five months. 
 
 On another occasion, when Mr. O. was with the 
 second kins; alone, while viewing; from his window a 
 great storm at sea, he said to Mr. O. " I heard from 
 my grandfather, and from my uncle, that all these 
 things were made — did you ever hear that?" Made, 
 said Mr. O. to try him, do you mean that the sea 
 made itself? " No, no; I do not mean that : I mean 
 made by its maker." O yes, said Mr. Oncruydt, 
 all white people know that. Then he said, " I have 
 told you who told me, now tell me how you know it." 
 On which he informed him of the Bible. 
 
 Many of the natives can speak a little English. 
 They smelt iron, copper, and silver, and make various 
 articles from them. They also manufacture, in a rough 
 way, articles of pottery. They not only raise a suf- 
 ficient quantity of rice to support themselves, but sell 
 considerable quantities to ships which touch there. 
 
 The heat is great from nine in the morning to 
 three in the afternoon ; but the other parts of the day
 
 DEC] CAPE-TOWN. 21 
 
 are very pleasant, and with proper caution health 
 may be preserved. So far as the gendeiiien could 
 judge of the whole island from what they saw, they 
 suppose the population must be very great. The in- 
 habitants in the interior are completely a different peo- 
 ple from those on the sea coast. 
 
 Mr. Alexander, the colonial secretary, informed me 
 that the king of the island of Joanna, which lies near 
 the north end of the island of Madagascar, had lately 
 sent an ambassador to the governor of the Cape, solicit- 
 ing assistance against the people of Madagascar, who, 
 as they alleged, fitted out ships that would contain 
 from fifty to sixty persons, in which they sent small 
 detachments to murder and plunder their neighbours, 
 without provocation. The governor, however, would 
 not interfere. It seemed to indicate a change of 
 character since the time that IMessrs. Oncruydt and 
 Truter had visited them, which is more than thirty 
 years ago. But as Augustine and Tulier, which they 
 visited, lie on the south or opposite end of that exten- 
 sive island, perhaps the inhabitants of that district may 
 not discover the same character. 
 
 26th. Returned to Stellenbosch.
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE MORAVIAN SETTLEMENT AT GE- 
 NADENDAL, OR BAVIAN'S KLOOF, AND CALEDON, 
 FORMERLY ZWARTEBERG. 
 
 December 29. 
 
 IVl R. Roos, boor near Stellenbosch, having kindly of- 
 fered to take me to visit Caledon and the ]\Ioravian 
 settlement at Genadendal, we left his house before 
 five o'clock in the morning, in his waggon and eight 
 horses, with three slaves. The morning; was cool and 
 pleasant. We soon came to a district called Hottentot 
 Holland, from whence we had an extensive view of the 
 sea and Simon's Bay. 
 
 There is a chain of high mountains at this distance 
 from the Cape, which is thirty-six miles, commencing 
 at the shore on the eastern side, and running more than 
 half across to the western. The sides of these moun- 
 tains are so steep, as to resemble a wall raised to the 
 heavens, to prevent all access to the interior. I have 
 heard only of two places where they can be crossed ; 
 the one only by horses, the other by waggons. This 
 last we were now to ascend. To me it would have 
 appeared impracticable, only I knew it had been per- 
 formed by others ; and our horses appeared as good
 
 dec] journey to GENADENDAL. 23 
 
 as any I had seen in the country. I scrambled up on 
 foot, and witnessed, with pain, the strugghng of the 
 horses to drag the waggon up the chfF. The flowers 
 which every where adorned the front of the mountain 
 were very beautiful, as if designed to cheer the tra- 
 veller's mind while ascending the rugged precipice. 
 On reaching the summit, an extensive desert came at 
 once into view. I think a thousand men could defend 
 this pass against all the armies of the world. The 
 descent on the north side is far more gradual, and the 
 road being sandy rendered it easier to go down. At 
 the bottom of the descent we halted at a brook of 
 water to refresh ourselves and horses; where there 
 was another waggon with some females, attended by 
 slaves, who were on their way to visit Genadendal, to 
 be present at their solemnity of closing the year. In 
 the evening we halted at the house of a boor, who was 
 a deacon of the church at Caledon, who treated us 
 kindly. 
 
 30th. Departed at seven, A.M. and reached Mr. 
 Vos's, the minister of Caledon, by nine o'clock. 
 He received us M'ith much kindness. A new town has 
 lately been formed here ; but it can never be a larcre 
 one, for want of a sufficient quantity of water. 
 
 31 St. Rose at three o'clock in the morning, in 
 ill order to arrive at an early hour at Bavian's 
 Kloof, now called Genadendal, or Grace Vale. 
 About three miles on our way we struck into a field, 
 in order to get sooner into the great road ; by this at-
 
 24 JOURNEY TO GENADENDAL. [1812. 
 
 tempt, however, ue lost much time, and got among 
 tall bushes on the side of a hill, \vhere we found that 
 some marsliy ground lay between us and the road we 
 wished to reach. In this dilemma a slave was dis- 
 patched to search for a way across, and he soon waved 
 his hand as a signal he had found one. When I viewed 
 it, I was sure no Englishman would have considered 
 it a way for a waggon to cross. The opening among 
 the bushes was a small pool, with steep sides to the 
 height of several feet, only not so perpendicular as at 
 other parts. When Mynheer Roos viewed it, he pro- 
 nounced it passable. I could give no opinion for want 
 of the Dutch language, and waited in silence to wit- 
 ness the consequence. The waggon went down one 
 side, with great force, into the water ; and by smartly 
 applying the whip, we were soon dragged up the other. 
 
 Nothing but barren hills appeared, in every direc- 
 tion, for several miles : at length the eye was relieved 
 by a farm-house coming into view, with a vineyard 
 and some fields, a little to the right. Travelling for- 
 ward among hills till about eleven, A.]\I. we reached 
 the lands belonging to the ]\foravian settlement, and 
 passed between many of their fields, but were sorry to 
 observe so poor a crop. Farther on we were informed 
 by a Hottentot that we had a broad river to go over, 
 and he would accompany us to point out the ford. 
 Genadendal was full in view before us. Their large 
 church was very conspicuous at a distance. The set- 
 tlement lies at the end of a valley, closely surrounded, 
 except in one direction, with great mountains. At a
 
 BEc] JOURNEY TO GENADENDAL. 25 
 
 distance it has more the appeamnce of a garden than 
 a town. As we passed the houses, we were gratified 
 by the civihzed appearance of many of the Hottentots, 
 although others were dressed in their loose sheepskins. 
 They saluted us in a friendly manner, and the children 
 seemed highly diverted to see us moving along. At 
 length we arrived at the houses of the missionary 
 brethren, where we were received with much christian 
 affection. A more pleasant spot than where they 
 dwell can hardly be imagined ; and the consideration 
 that all was a barren wilderness when they came there, 
 added greatly to the pleasure we felt in viewing it. 
 
 Not long after our arrival the bell rang for dinner, 
 and we were taken to a large apartment where they all 
 dine together. The table was plentifully supplied, but 
 there was nothing superfluous. Those who served were 
 Hottentots, except one Caffre girl. They did every 
 thing with as much propriety and expedition as our 
 best English servants could have done. Before Smd 
 after dinner all joined in singing an appropriate hymn. 
 
 After dinner we made a circuit round the settlement, 
 calling at several houses of the Hottentots, which were 
 neat and clean. Some of the houses had four apart- 
 ments, which were whitened, and had some articles 
 of furniture ; but many other houses were as mean as 
 those I afterwards saw at Bethelsdorp : every house, 
 however, had a good garden, stocked with fruit-trees, 
 which are equally ornamental and useful. Their hedges 
 were chiefly composed of the peach-tree, at that time
 
 26 JOURNEY TO GENADENDAL. [1812. 
 
 full of fruit, which they dry in the sun for food in win- 
 ter. I was surprised at the largeness of their trees, 
 many of which appeared to me forty or fifty years old, 
 but they assured me that all had been planted within 
 eighteen years, except one which had been planted by 
 their missionary, who had attempted a settlement there, 
 seventy years ago, but was obliged by persecution to 
 leave the place. They shewed me an aged woman 
 who remembered him ; and they pointed out the grave 
 of another female, who died lately, and had been con- 
 verted under that missionary. She kept a New Testa- 
 ment during the fifty years' absence of the missionaries, 
 and this New Testament was the means of keeping 
 her soul alive to God during half a century. She 
 could not read, but she got another person to read 
 it to her. O how her soul rejoiced on the return 
 of the missionaries! It was to her like life from 
 the dead. 
 
 In our walk we passed the house of a man who is a 
 leper, but his mind is supported by the comforts of the 
 gospel. His body was dark- brown, but the leprous 
 parts were white. We viewed also the burying ground. 
 They pointed out the spot allotted to the missionary 
 brethren ; another where the sisters are interred ; ano- 
 ther for the baptized male Hottentots ; another for the 
 females ; and likewise a separate place for the child- 
 ren. As there will be no distinction between male and 
 female, young or old, at the resurrection, I am at a 
 loss to conceive, and I forgot to inquire, their reason 
 for separating them now. They annually, in a body,
 
 DEC,] JOURNEY TO GENADENDAL. 27 
 
 visit this repository of the dead, uniting in prayer and 
 praise, and holding fellowship with the souls of them 
 who are with Jesus Christ. No doubt this must be 
 an impressive scene, and must call up to their remem- 
 brance many things respecting the dead, on whose 
 dust they are treading. On viewing the burying 
 ground, we walked to the garden of the missionaries, 
 which is extensive, well laid out, and well watered. 
 With peculiar sensations we sat down under the shade 
 of that tree, which was planted seventy years ago by 
 the first missionary. The conversation naturally turn- 
 ed to his labours to introduce the gospel of Jesus to 
 this wild region, and the regret with which he left it ; 
 and the mind naturally soared to the Heavenly Jeru- 
 salem, and thought of his happiness in that well peo- 
 pled land. 
 
 After tea we ascended one of the hills, to have a 
 complete view of the whole settlement, which is about 
 a mile in length, and a quarter of a mile in breadth : 
 the gardens being so numerous, the whole resembled 
 a city in a wood. I viewed it as a garden of the Lord, 
 a field which he had blessed. I could not but reflect 
 on the former ignorance and present knowledge of 
 its inhabitants, and of Jehovah's dweUing graciously 
 in many of its huts, far removed fi'om the din of war 
 and the distractions of the busy world. 
 
 Descending the mountain, we walked to the houses 
 of some Caffres, who had lately come for instruction. 
 Their huts were in a corner by themselves. They are 
 
 E 2
 
 28 JOURNEY TO GENADENDAL. [181^. 
 
 taller and better shaped than the Hottentots, and from 
 their countenances appear possessed of more intellect. 
 Perhaps God designs to employ some of them to 
 spread the knowledge of his name in Caffraria and 
 the regions beyond it. Had we seen the Galilean 
 fishermen, quietly mending their nets, could Me have 
 conjectured that these humble labourers should after- 
 wards regenerate the w orld, should shake and overturn 
 the idolatries and superstitions of ancient empires and 
 states, and that their instructions should be joyfully 
 received hundreds of years afterwards, from the rising 
 to the setting sun, to the utmost boundaries of the 
 earth! The same God can make of these Caffres, 
 Peters, and Johns, and Pauls. His providence brought 
 them to the missionaries ; his grace has brought some 
 of them to Jesus ; and what he may yet do by them, 
 none can tell. 
 
 At eight o'clock we went to their chapel, which will 
 contain upwards of a thousand people, every part of 
 which was filled with Hottentots, many of whom had 
 come from afar to conclude the year together. They 
 sang well and with becoming solemnity, and listened 
 with attention to an address from one of the mission- 
 aries. This meeting was concluded about nine o'clock ; 
 and on account of its being the last evening in the 
 year, they assembled again at half past eleven. After 
 singing, and receiving an address from the senior 
 missionary, the twelfth hour struck, when all went 
 down on their knees and joined in a solemn address 
 to God. When they had sung an hymn, all retired to
 
 DEC] CALEDON. 29 
 
 rest. Tlius, during the meeting, one year ended and 
 another commenced. 
 
 The Moravian meetings for prayer and instruction 
 are pretty frequent; but none that I have attended 
 have been long, which shews wisdom in the mission- 
 aries, and their acquaintance with human nature. 
 
 Jan. 1, 1813. — We left Genadendal at four o'clock 
 in the morning, after taking leave of the missionaries. 
 We were accompanied by Mr. Wessel, from the 
 neighbourhood of Caledon, in his waggon. We re- 
 turned to Caledon by a different road from that by 
 which we went, and we had the pleasure to observe 
 much more cultivation. About nine, A.M. we reached 
 Caledon, where we found about forty v/aggons, filled 
 with people, who had come to be present at the open- 
 ing of the new church. Mr. Vos preached from 
 Isaiah ii. 2. after which he thanked the landdrost, 
 wardens, deacons, people, and his brethren, for their 
 attention and assistance in building the church. About 
 385 rix-doUars were collected at the conclusion of the 
 service. The church and minister's house Avill cost 
 30,000 rix-dollars, or six thousand pounds currency. 
 
 Here I had an opportunity of meeting Mr. Pacalt, 
 and conversing respecting his proposed mission to 
 Madagascar. I read to him all the information which 
 I had obtained respecting that island, the discouraging 
 as well as the more inviting circumstances. He re-
 
 30 CALEDON. [1813. 
 
 mained firm in his determination to go, provided a 
 suitable person could be found to accompany liini. 
 
 2nd. Visited the hot baths in the neighbourhood, 
 the water of which was so hot that I could not hold 
 my finger in it above a second. Mr. Hassner, the pro- 
 prietor, gave me many useful hints about traveUing in 
 the interior. 
 
 3rd. After the worship of the Sabbath was over, we 
 took leave of Mr. Vos, and accompanied a farmer 
 with whom we were to lodge that night. We travelled 
 three hours and a half without seeing any house, or 
 any cultivation, till we arrived at the farmer's dwelling, 
 which was full of children and slaves. Mr. Roos pro- 
 duced a small manuscript book of hymns, which the 
 family seemed to view as more precious than gold. 
 They formed a circle, and sung three or four hymns 
 without intermission. 
 
 4th. I left with the family some Dutch and English 
 tracts, which they received with much pleasure. They 
 were anxious to understand the English language, and 
 regretted they had no means to acquire it. About 
 six in the morning we parted from this sequestered 
 christian family : we observed them looking after us 
 till, turning the corner of a hill, they were concealed 
 from our view. On ascending a mountain we entered 
 a cloud, in which we travelled half an hour, during 
 which time we had a fall of rain. These hills were
 
 JAN.] STELLENBOSCH. 31 
 
 decked with a great variety of beautiful flowers. At 
 eleven, A.M. we halted, and in a short time were 
 joined by three waggons full of friends from Cale- 
 don. They soon lighted up a fire and made coffee 
 for breakfast. We departed at one and got safely over 
 Hottentot Holland mountain, and arrived at Mr. 
 Roos's a little after sun-set. Though there were 
 twenty people, who came unexpectedly, the family 
 were not in the least disconcerted ; our arrival was 
 regarded as an ordinary occurrence. Floors were 
 soon covered with beds, and the table with dishes; 
 and the numerous guests had retired to rest by tea 
 o'clock. 
 
 At nine on the following morning I arrived at Mr. 
 Kuyper's, at Stellenbosch, which was my home. 
 
 nth. Occupied the forenoon in visiting the friends 
 of missions in company with our missionary Mr. Bak- 
 ker. The first we visited was a person in business, 
 whose wife became a convert to Christianity under the 
 ministry of Mr Bakker, and has continued twelve years 
 stedfast in the faith. She was once a slave. They are 
 rich, have a good business, and many slaves. 
 
 A young female slave, brought to a knowledge of 
 the gospel by Mr. Bakker's instrumentality, was dying 
 in the faith. He asked her, last night, why she ex- 
 pected to go to heaven, since all who died did not 
 go there : to which she replied, " Because I believe in 
 Jesus Christ."
 
 32 STELLENBOSCH [1813, 
 
 Mr. Bakker is a humble, alFectionate, gentle, quiet 
 man : he prays much, and says little : is little known 
 and little spoken of, except in his immediate circle; but 
 God has greatly owned his labours. 
 
 20th. After having remained two months in Stellen- 
 bosch, waiting till the sultry weather should be over, 
 that I might commence my journey into the interior, 
 I left it early in the morning, accompanied by my good 
 friend Mr. Kuyper, for Cape-town, where we arrived 
 at one o'clock, when I again took up my residence 
 under the hospitable roof of Mr. Oncruydt. I had 
 the happiness to meet with Mr. and jMrs. Milne, on 
 their way to join Mr. Morrison at China, and likewise 
 Mr. and Mrs. Harrington from Calcutta, who were 
 on a visit for the health of Mrs. H. I was likewise 
 greatly pleased to find the soldiers' meeting, under 
 Mr. Thom, prospering greatly. My time, until my de- 
 parture, was taken up in attending to various concerns, 
 which it is unnecessary here to detail.
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. 
 
 OCCURRENCES IN TRAVELLING TO GEORGE— WITH 
 VISITS TO ZUREBRAK AND HOGHE, HOTl'ENTOT 
 KRAALS. 
 
 vJUR two waggons being packed by eight in the 
 morning of Saturday the 1 3th of February, they called 
 for me at Mr. Oncruydt's in Strand-street, when I took 
 leave of this kind family, and commenced a journey 
 to Bethelsdorp, and the other missionary settlements 
 in South Africa. The greatness of the undertaking 
 pressed so powerfully upon my mind as almost to over- 
 whelm me, and compelled me to implore the special 
 assistance and direction of Him who holds the stars 
 in his hand, and guides all things by the counsel of his 
 own will Mr. Milne, missionary to China, went with 
 me in the waggon till we got to a little distance from 
 the town, when he and Mr. Thorn bade us farewell and 
 returned. 
 
 We travelled in two waggons, one of which was 
 drawn by twelve, the other by fourteen oxen. Our 
 
 F
 
 34 JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 two drivers were Cupido, a converted Hottentot be- 
 longing to Betbelsdorp; and Britannia, a Gonacqua: 
 John and Michal, Hottentots, were leaders of our 
 oxen, and Elizabeth and Sarah accompanied us for 
 the purposes of cooking and of washing. About four 
 miles from town we took an early dinner at Mr. D's. 
 and at one, P.M. proceeded on our journey over deep 
 sand till four o'clock, when we halted at a place 
 where there was water, for the refreshment of our 
 oxen. Our females soon lighted a fire, and presented 
 us with a cup of coffee on a mat spread upon the 
 grass. At seven, P.M. we departed, the moon shining 
 with all her brightness, which rendered the evening 
 pleasant; but being obliged to walk, in order to re- 
 lieve the oxen while travelling over sand, we found it 
 rather fatiguing. At nine we got out of the road 
 among sand-hills ; and in a hollow, one of our waggons 
 stuck so fast that it was half an hour before it could 
 be extricated. About midnight we again lost the 
 road, and were in search of it an hour before it was 
 discovered. In Africa, however warm the days, the 
 nights are cool : this one was piercingly cold ; we pro- 
 ceeded, ho\vever, and about four in the morning, we 
 reached the house of Mr. Rose, a wine boor, who was 
 up at that early hour in expectation of our arrival. 
 
 14th. Mr. Messer, the missionary, who has been en- 
 gaged in the instruction of the slaves here for the last 
 thirteen months, but is shortly to remove to one of the 
 stations in the interior, preached a farewell discourse 
 to his sable congregation. Many of them were so much
 
 FEB.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. 35 
 
 affected, that they leaned against the wall and wept, 
 saying, How shall we get on the way now ? 
 
 15rh. When on the eve of departing, at six, P.M. 
 we discovered that two additional oxen we had pur- 
 chased in the morning had strayed : two of our Hotten- 
 tots were dispatched in search of them to the boors 
 from whom we purchased them, from whence they 
 were brought back about eight o'clock, when we pro- 
 ceeded on our journey, after taking leave of the hos- 
 pitable family. At eleven, P.M. the wind began to 
 blow very hard, and by midnight increased to a vio- 
 lent storm, which made me feel for Mr. and Mrs. 
 Milne, who were to sail for the Isle of France on 
 the preceding day. This storm made us halt upon 
 the highway, and wait till it should be day. I spent a 
 waking, uncomfortable night; but the Hottentots, in 
 their sheep-skins, slept as sound as if in the best 
 chamber on a bed of down. 
 
 l6th. At five in the morning we were again in 
 motion towards Hottentot Holland Kloff, a steep and 
 difficult pass over mountains. We were three hours be- 
 fore both waggons were brought to the summit. At first 
 we hoped that each yoke of oxen would be able to 
 drag their own waggon to the top, but in this we were 
 disappointed, for after ascending but a small part of 
 it, both waggons made a dead halt; an inch farther, 
 with all the assistance we could give them, they would 
 not move. On putting our twenty-four oxen to each 
 waggon they dragged them to the top with consider- 
 
 F 2
 
 36 JOURNEY TO BETIIELSDORP. [I813. 
 
 able difficulty. At nine o'clock, A.M. we halted at a 
 brook till the heat of the day was over. At noon it 
 was almost insupportable. 
 
 At six, P.M. we vvent forward. We killed a 
 grey serpent, which shone in the dark, and emitted a 
 rattling sound, evidently intended by providence to 
 warn people of its approach. Having had no sleep 
 the preceding night, I attempted now to get a little 
 Test, even while the waggon was in motion, and I 
 completely succeeded. 
 
 17th. At four in the morning I awoke, fully satisfied 
 with the sound sleep I had enjoyed, and we proceeded 
 on our journey about six o'clock. The road being 
 hilly, rocky, and sandy, we had to walk the whole of 
 the stage, and the ^vaggons were several times nearly 
 overturned. About ten, A.M. we pitched our tent 
 among the great bushes whicli skirted the Bot-river. 
 In a short time after halting, our Hottentots presented 
 us with cofifce, which led me to feel grateful for the 
 facility w ith which the element of fire can be obtained, 
 and to think with pleasure that I was now experiencing 
 the same kind of hfe which Abraham and the other 
 ancient patriarchs lived in their day ; and though new 
 to me, I began to feel quite at home in it. The river 
 being brackish, I asked for a draught of water, but I 
 found that the cork having come out of our keg, the 
 good water was all gone, and we could expect no more 
 till we should have travelled about ten miles further — 
 within about eight miles, however, Elizabeth dis-
 
 tEB.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. 37 
 
 covered a pure stream of water, which afforded us high 
 "ratification. 
 
 o 
 
 The six Hottentots who accompanied us seldom 
 sought shelter from the sun ; it does not seem to affect 
 them — they were healthy, cheerful, and happy ; at one 
 time singing a hymn, at another joining in prayer, and 
 listening to an address from Cupido, whose labours 
 were blessed to the conversion of one Mahommedan 
 slave in Cape-town. At six we moved forward, and 
 halted at eight on a rising ground, where we had 
 worship, and a discourse from Cupido, which, being in 
 Dutch, I very imperfectly understood. 
 
 At two o'clock in the morning we continued our 
 journey, and were assisted by much lightning during 
 the darkness. We found as we walked along, several 
 shells of the land tortoise which had lately been killed 
 by the crow, who raises them into the air, when she 
 lets them fall eitiier upon stones or hard ground, by 
 which their shells are broken and become thereby an 
 easy prey. For the first time we found two different 
 kinds of branches growing on the same tree. This 
 is occasioned by an incision made by a bird with its 
 beak in a tree, in which he drops a seed which pro- 
 duces a large branch, of medicinal properties. At 
 eight, A.M. we halted in a valley about two miles 
 from Caledon, where we had brealvfast, from whence 
 we moved forward at noon to Caledon, where we 
 spent three hours very comfortably with Mr. and
 
 38 JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 Mrs. Vos, whom we left at three, and arrived at 
 Mr. Wessels, at six P.M. 
 
 In consequence of the rain, our departure on the 
 19th was postponed till two o'clock P.M. when we 
 set off with an additional supply of ten oxen, which 
 Dr. Vyanderkemp had left with Mr. Wessel, about 
 twelve months before. At five we halted at Sand 
 
 Fountain, to which Mr. W favoured us with 
 
 oxen for one of our waggons — at seven we went for- 
 ward, and halted in a wilderness during the night, 
 where we found it very difficult to produce fire, as 
 every thing was wet. 
 
 We expected at eleven P.M. to have proceeded on 
 our journey, but in consequence of some of our cattle 
 straying in search of water, we could not remove till 
 after six in the morning. About eight we came to a 
 small salt brook, in which one of our waggons stuck so 
 fast, that we were detained nearly an hour ; four and 
 twenty oxen with difficulty pulled it out. At ten A.M. 
 we stopped at what is called River-without-end. 
 Having caught a scorpion near our tent, we tried 
 whether naturalists were accurate in relating, that if 
 that animal be surrounded with fire, and sees he can- 
 not escape, he will sting himself to death. However, 
 it died as quietly as any other animal, only darting its 
 sting from it, as if to oppose any ordinary assailant. 
 We saw another animal, which exactly resembled an 
 animated piece of straw, with wings and legs. Having
 
 FEB.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. 39 
 
 made enquiry of the Hottentots concerning it, they 
 said the Boors named it, the Hottentot's God. At six 
 A.M. the thermometer was sixty-five; but at two, 
 P.M. eighty- three. 
 
 On the 21st. we departed about one in the morning, 
 and at seven arrived at Thorn Place, where we halted 
 for the day. At eleven, A.M. the thermometer was 
 ninety-two in the shade, and at three, P.M. ninety- 
 four. Just before our departure, at eight P.M. I 
 learned that an ox had been left behind sick; when 
 they afterwards returned to the place where they had 
 left it, it was gone, having, no doubt, recovered. At 
 ten, P.M. we crossed Broad River, which is deep and 
 wide, and in the winter season frequently impassable. 
 On ascending its sides we halted for the night, where 
 Cupido preached to us under the canopy of heaven. 
 
 On the 22d, we left Broad River at six A.M. and 
 after travelling over many a hill we reached Zwellen- 
 dam about mid-day, the seat of the Landdrost, who 
 governs a very extensive district. It is a small town, 
 lying in a valley, surrounded by hills. A chain of 
 mountains passes the west end of the town, of great 
 height, and it is the same chain which had been on 
 our left ever since we crossed Hottentot Holland 
 Kloff. The houses of Zwellendam are handsome, and 
 have a fine appearance in the middle of a desert. An 
 old man whom we met at Broad River assured us we 
 could get every thing in Zwellendam. We were sorry to
 
 40 JOURNEY TO BETIIELSDORP. [1813, 
 
 find that exactly the reverse was trutii, for we wanted a 
 second chain to our wheels, a spade, and a little butter, 
 but none of these articles could be procured at Zwel- 
 lendam. We likewise wanted a block for the waggon 
 wheel to rest upon when dragged, but they had no 
 timber large enough for such a purpose. 
 
 At one, Mr. H — and I left Zwellendam in a hired 
 waggon to visit Mr. Seidenfader's missionary station at 
 Zurebrak. The waggon was packed so full of various 
 articles that we could not sit erect, and we had an 
 unpleasant journey of six hours. Often I was afraid 
 lest the waggon should have been dashed to pieces 
 from the ruggedness of the road, and the steep places 
 it had to descend ; however, a slave girl about seventeen 
 years of age led the oxen cheerfully forward through 
 every difficulty. I was surprized at her boldness, for 
 sometimes I expected oxen and waggon to fall upon 
 her. At length an extensive valley opened to our view, 
 where Mr. Seidenfader labours among a Kraal of 
 Hottentots, and where he has built a house and cul- 
 tivated a considerable portion of land. 
 
 At seven, the bell was rung, when about fifty 
 Hottentot men and women assembled — the meeting 
 began by singing a hymn, when after reading part of a 
 chapter, he addressed them from it, to which, sitting 
 upon the floor, they listened with seeming interest. 
 The service was concluded by singing a hymn, the 
 subject of which was an evening prayer.
 
 PEB.] JOURNEY TO BETIIELSDORP. 41 
 
 A little after five in the mornino; a bell was runs as 
 
 a signal for the school to assemble, when about eighteen 
 women and four boys came together, and read out of 
 their catechism for about an hour. A leader spells 
 and pronounces each syllable, which all pronounce 
 after her. They sing at the beginning and conclusion. 
 Their plan requires much improvement. After visiting 
 and conversing with the Hottentots in their houses, 
 and viewing the ground that was cultivated, we returned 
 to Zwellendam about six P.M. where we found that 
 Mr. Pacalt, missionary, had arrived with his luggage 
 to accompany us to George Drosdy, near which we 
 expected he would be settled, at least for a time, 
 among a Kraal of Hottentots, but our waggons being 
 already overloaded, they could admit of no addition, 
 we were therefore obliged to leave him to labour at 
 and around Zwellendam till some opportunity should 
 occur of reaching George. 
 
 We left Zwellendam about seven P.M. The nisht 
 was cool and windy, yet not unpleasant, and the 
 heavens were studded with stars. One of the three 
 perpetual clouds called by seamen The Cape Clouds, 
 appeared black, but I was satisfied that it is only a 
 part of the Via Lactea, or Milky Way, which being 
 itself destitute of brightness, but encompassed by the 
 lustre of the surrounding stars, has in a clear night the 
 appearance of a black cloud. 
 
 This being the driest season in the year, the boors 
 burn the heath and dry grass upon their extensive 
 
 G
 
 42 JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. [1S13. 
 
 ground, after which, if it happens to rain, good grass 
 springs up in a short time. We saw two of these 
 great fires at a distance, which afforded us some 
 amusement, but it must have been fatal to myriads of 
 noxious vermin and reptiles. The lions, tygers, and 
 other beasts, must also experience a temporary incon- 
 venience. We travelled the whole night, till about six 
 next morning. I confess I was surprised that the oxen 
 could continue to travel eleven hours together. 
 
 24th. The place where we halted is called Churn- 
 milk- Valley, which is full of trees, all of which are 
 natives of Africa. Thermometer, at four P.M. in the 
 shade, seventy-eight. At live we left this valley, 
 directing our course eastward, with the same chain of 
 hu2;e mountains on our left. The country before us, 
 and towards the sea on our right, was covered with 
 small hills, many of which resembled Table Mountain 
 at the Cape. I liave frequently remarked when travel- 
 ing in Scotland and England, that when one hill 
 appears of a particular shape, there are others in the 
 vicinity of a similar form : the same thing occurs in 
 Africa. 
 
 At sun-set we crossed Slang (or Serpent) river. I 
 tasted of its water, but it was so brackish, that I could 
 not drink it. The boor in the neighbourhood is obliged 
 to bring his water from hills ten miles distant. The 
 country around is thinly inhabited, and the people are 
 destitute of all means of information, respecting the 
 present and the future world. Their life appears to
 
 FEB.] JOURNEY TO BETliELSDORP. 43 
 
 me, mere animal existence. When will this wilder- 
 ness be transformed into a garden of the Lord ? It is 
 an act of the highest philanthropy, and a most exalted 
 display of the power of christian principles, for a 
 missionary, from love to Jesus Christ and the souls of 
 men, to leave European society and retire to this gloomy 
 wilderness, merely to do good to its scattered and 
 miserable inhabitants. The man who has been born 
 here, and consequently is ignorant of the advantages 
 of other lands, cannot know the wretchedness of his 
 own circumstances. Our road being constantly up 
 and down hill, greatly fatigued our oxen. At midnight 
 we crossed Dunehox river, where we took in a supply 
 of good water, the value of which in such a country, 
 and at such a season is incalculable. 
 
 25th. At one in the morning our road was up hill, 
 and very bad, full of deep excavations made by the 
 rain, which in the rainy season falls in torrents. Into 
 one of these deep hollows the two right wheels of one 
 of our waggons sunk, out of which the oxen could not 
 drag it, without the assistance of fourteen from the 
 other waggon. Before two, we came to Krombeck 
 river, where we halted, having travelled upwards of 
 twenty miles at a stretch. The place was surrounded 
 with low trees, and these were encircled by small hills* 
 Having slept in the afternoon and former part of the 
 night, I could not sleep now; I therefore rose, and 
 walked outside by moonlight. About three o'clock a 
 brightness appeared in the east, and when the sun's 
 light began to overcome that of the moon, many birds
 
 44 JOURNEY TO BETIIELSDORP. [1815. 
 
 by their notes hailed the approach of da3\ During 
 all this time the Hottentots were fast asleep upon the 
 ground — when these go to rest, they have only to lay 
 down a mat, and to cover themselves with their sheep 
 skins, and they seem to sleep comfortably until morn- 
 ing. After breakfast some of us visited Krombeck, 
 (or Crooked Back) river, the water of w Inch we found 
 to be pure and well tasted ; the trees on each side 
 formed a complete arch over it, which protected it 
 from the penetrating rays of the sun, so that the water 
 was delightfully cool. 
 
 Though the day was cloudy at noon, yet the ther- 
 mometer stood at ninety. The place is rather out of 
 the way to Bethelsdorp, but we came in quest of timber 
 to repair the wheels. Without ceremony they cut 
 down a considerable tree, which they sawed in pieces 
 to make what they wanted. I could not but notice 
 a remarkable difference between an African and Eu- 
 ropean climate. In England, if I sat or slept in the 
 least draught of air, it was sure to be followed by a 
 sore throat, but here though I had now slept eleven 
 nights in the waggon, with cold winds blowing througb 
 it, I sustained no inconvenience. 
 
 About four, P.M. we left Krombeck river, and 
 ascended a hill by a stony path, from the top of which 
 we had an extensive prospect; but all was heath, no 
 field or house visible, except a boor's immediately 
 behind us. Many inconsiderable hills lay before us, 
 and towards these we advanced. For some time we
 
 FEB.] JOURNEY TO BETIIELSDORP. 45 
 
 travelled among trees on the banks of the bed of a river 
 which was dry. Large aloes grew abundantly on the sides 
 of the road, and to the very summits of the hills, some 
 of which were ten or twelve feet besides the flower. 
 At sun-set we came to the end of the pleasant valley 
 we had travelled in for some time, and ascended a 
 steep hill, which obliged our oxen to make great 
 exertions, and we found the descent nearly as trouble- 
 some ; however, we got safely along, though the night 
 was the darkest we had experienced on our journey. 
 A monkey near us seemed very angry from his cries, 
 but we could not see him. Some oxen were driven 
 past us, which gave us uneasiness lest some of our 
 loose ones had gone with them. It was long before 
 we could satisfy ourselves as to this point, though the 
 number of our spare oxen was only twelve. At ten, 
 P.M. Ave were obliged to halt from the darkness of the 
 night. Our oxen were hardly out of the yoke when 
 the clouds poured down rain very plentifully, which 
 continued until morning. 
 
 20th. In the morning every thing around looked 
 lively and refreshed by the rain. — At five, A.M. we 
 proceeded on our journey. Two stupendous moun- 
 tains were on our left, whose tops reached the clouds, 
 and formed part of the great chain. At nine, A.M. 
 we crossed the Vat river, and halted during the day 
 on its opposite banks. We applied to a neighbouring 
 boor to sell us some provisions, but he had none to 
 spare; however, after coming to our waggons, and 
 conversing with us a little, he found he could spare us
 
 46 JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 some grapes and butter. The wind began to blow so 
 hard about noon, that we found it difficult to keep up 
 our tent, and the rain fell copiousl}^ An oak, under 
 which our tent stood, defended us for a while, but at 
 length we were flooded out, and obliged to take refuge 
 in our waggons. 
 
 At three, P.M. we left Vat river. At five, crossed 
 Caffi'e Schols river, then ascended a hill on the top of 
 which stood a farm-house, the windows of which were 
 crouded by the poor slaves, who were curious to see us 
 pass. A little after sun-set it became so dark, that 
 the road could not be discerned; we were therefore 
 obliged to halt until day. Here the Hottentots con- 
 structed, in a few minutes, a portable house. It is 
 made of rushes, and resembles a stair carpet, about six 
 feet wide, which they raise upon its sides, making the 
 two upper sides meet for a roof, and the two ends for 
 a door, extending the two under sides for a chamber, 
 and a spare piece they lay down for a carpet. I went 
 into it, and found it very comfortable. In this rush 
 house, wet as they were by the rain, they sat in the 
 dark, singing hymns for about an hour. 
 
 27th. After six hours sleep I awoke about three in the 
 morning, when I was glad to find the rain to be over, 
 and a small remnant of that moon which had been so 
 useful to us on the journey, shining from near the 
 horizon. About four, A.M. the morning star rose 
 above the hills, and it was not long before the sun 
 sprang up and the darkness fled away, and the birds as
 
 FEB.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. 4/ 
 
 usual, testified their joy. At six, the oxen were yoked 
 to the waggons, ready to render us all the service in 
 their power. They serve silently, without ostenation, 
 boasting, or desire of reward : allow them to eat their 
 Maker's grass, and they ask no more. During the night, 
 for the first time, after they had eaten awhile, they drew 
 all round our waggons and slept. I supposed this was 
 for protection from the wild beasts, which they must 
 have seen, or heard, or smelled. 
 
 Our stage in the morning was tolerably good, only 
 hilly. One of our company, when in search of the 
 roebuck, saw three ostriches. We saw only one 
 person during a journey of four hours, and he was on 
 a hill, a mile distant — indeed, human beings besides 
 ourselves were beginning to be as great rarities as the 
 ostrich. At ten, A.M. we halted at False river, in the 
 middle of a small plain, full of bushy trees, and six 
 low hills formed a circle around us. Were such a 
 spot within five miles of London, it would be of im- 
 mense value, but here it is worth only a few dollars. 
 If there be any Hottentots in the neighbourhood, it 
 would be a charming station for a mission, as there 
 must be good water all the year, since there is such 
 plenty in the river, though it be the driest season in 
 the year. 
 
 At Cape-town I was told that our table would be 
 plentifully supplied with game by the Hottentots ; but 
 had our lives depended on so precarious a supply, we
 
 48 JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 must all have perished. Indeed, very little of the 
 information I received there has proved correct. 
 
 There is not that difference between the appearance 
 of one country and another, as people who remain all 
 their days at home are ready to imajrine. Cultivation 
 and population, and the absence of these, are the two 
 opposites. As to the difference of trees, flowers, &c. 
 it is but little; for, in a week, foreign trees and flowers 
 become as familiar to the eye, as the furze and broom 
 bushes are to Englishmen. This, with other considera- 
 tions, satisfies me that nothing but the unsearchable 
 Jehovah, as a mans portion, can fully gratify his im- 
 mortal mind. A man who has travelled much will meet 
 with httle afterwards to excite his admiration ; and if his 
 happiness be confined to the production of wonder by 
 visible objects, I should not wonder if he became 
 weary of this, and be desirous to visit other worlds, or 
 other systems; as Alexander, whose happiness was 
 chiefly derived from his conquests, after he had con- 
 quered the world, regretted that there were no more 
 worlds to conquer. 
 
 Thermometer, at seven, A.M. 64 : noon, 66, like 
 a spring day in England. I do not know how many 
 of the boors in South Africa would be able to con- 
 sume their time, were it not for the aid of tobacco. 
 They seem to have no mental resources ; no taste for 
 reading; (many, indeed, have no books to read :) little 
 matter occurs for subjects of conversation : they seem,
 
 FEB.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORT. 49 
 
 tlierefbre, under the dreadful necessity of murdering 
 time by smoking pipe after pipe. 
 
 Left False river at three, P.M. and walked on 
 before the waggons. While waiting for their coming 
 up, I often recollected the counsel of the wise man, 
 who says, " Go to the ant, thou sluggard," viz. for 
 instruction and reproof; and the more frequently I do 
 so, the more I admire the wisdom that taught him 
 to select this insect as a pattern of activity; for, of 
 all the creatures God has placed on our globe, this 
 seems to be the most active and industrious. All 
 their nests that I have watched have exhibited the 
 utmost activity. Every one appears in such haste to 
 accomplish his object, that they resemble the inhabit- 
 ants of a city when on fire in all quarters ; and this 
 activity is not confined to particular nests or particular 
 times of the day, but is an universal virtue among 
 ants, exhibited from sun-rise to sun-set. Viewing 
 their motions while the waggon approached, I observed 
 a little ant, with great exertion, bringing a large prick- 
 ly seed home to the general magazine, which it carried 
 in its mouth. When its progress at any time was im- 
 peded by a stalk of grass lying across its path, it im- 
 mediately turned about and dragged it after it. I 
 observed great ingenuity in this contrivance. On 
 arriving at the mouth of its nest, which was under- 
 ground, it left the seed above, ran into the hole and 
 soon brought a large ant, who laying hold of the seed 
 carried it down with the greatest ease. How it con- 
 veyed the information to the other that his assistance 
 
 H
 
 50 JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. [1813.. 
 
 was required, 1 could not conjecture, but the great ant 
 seemed perfectly aware of the business on which he 
 was called. 
 
 In about half an hour after setting out, we came to 
 a steep declivity on the side of a hill, which we de- 
 scended without receiving ] any damage. When we 
 spoke to Cupido of the badness of the descent, he 
 said it was a Moy pat (or fine road) compared to 
 some we must yet descend. When dark we halted on 
 the road, near a place called Hell. W^e soon kindled 
 a large fire, being surrounded with fuel, took a cup of 
 coffee, and then engaged in divine worship. Cupido's 
 heart was warm, for he spoke to us of the sudden 
 coming of the Son of ]\Ian, till a considerable part of 
 a candle had burned to the socket. At one time he 
 compared this to the sudden attacks which the Bush- 
 men make. When one of our company offered 
 Cupido a little Cape brandy, as he had walked the 
 whole stage, he refused it, saying, he had never tasted 
 spirits since the Lord opened his eyes. 
 
 The immense variety of flowers, and flowering 
 plants and trees, in Africa, is truly wonderful. They 
 proclaim the handy works of the Lord ; and he must 
 have some particular reason for affording such a dis- 
 play of his wisdom and power to the inhabitants of 
 Africa. Some would tell me that it results from the 
 soil and elements; but this conveys no more informa- 
 tion on the subject than if, when inspecting a noble 
 edifice, one should tell me it was produced by ham-
 
 FEB.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. 51 
 
 mers and chisels. True, these were the instruments, 
 but an architect and his assistants were the agents; 
 and they had a particular design to answer by rearing 
 such a building. 
 
 28th. We left our night's residence at six, A.M. 
 and came to what is improperly named Hell. It is a 
 small plain, with a river running past the end and one 
 side of it, which appears from the road far below, and 
 is so surrounded by hills that it was some time before 
 we discovered by what avenue the river entered it. 
 The road also has two very bad descents, where many 
 waggons have been dashed to pieces. The remains 
 of one that had broken down lately were lying at the 
 head of the first descent: ours, however, descended 
 without harm. 
 
 Now we had to cross the broadest river I had seen 
 in Africa, called Hous river. Before we ventured 
 across, Cupido waded into it to ascertain its depth, 
 and having pronounced it passable, we crossed through 
 a strong and deep current ; and it was well we did so 
 at that time, for in less than an hour it rose so high, 
 in consequence of the late rains, that we could not 
 have effected our passage. Its bed, in winter, appears 
 to be more than a quarter of a mile wide, when it is 
 completely impassable by all kinds of travellers. In 
 the winter bed of the river we met with an entirely 
 new class of trees. That kind most numerous much 
 resembled our larch, only it bore a small flower, and 
 beautiful red berries of an oval shape. We halted 
 
 H 2
 
 52 JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 about a mile beyond the river, and Cupido preached, 
 when the boor's wife and family attended. We gave 
 her Dutch tracts, and I spent some time in teaching 
 her children their letters. She gave us plenty of 
 churned milk and butter. None of the children knew 
 one letter in the alphabet : they were remarkably shy, 
 having perhaps never seen as many people together 
 before. Thermometer at noon 71. At two, V.M. 
 four Hottentot women, an old man, and four children, 
 came to have conversation with Cupido. When he 
 and they had seated themselves on the grass, I ad- 
 mired the facility with which he introduced a con- 
 versation with each. He asked the old man if he 
 knew any thing of God, which began a long conversa- 
 tion with him : he inquired of another if she had any 
 love to God, which served as a foundation of a con- 
 versation with her. In this way he had a particular 
 conversation with each. This lasted for an hour and 
 a half, and I hope it will not soon be forgotten. 
 
 At sun-set we departed from Hous river, and tra- 
 velled until eleven, P.M. along a narrow pass, not 
 more than 500 feet wide, between two chains of 
 hills. In the day it would have been pleasant, but 
 in the night it was gloomy. We crossed the bed of 
 a river four or live times, which must render it trouble- 
 some in the rainy season. We passed three boors' 
 houses, which, from their nearness to each other, 
 proves that the ground is good ; and likewise a rock, 
 which in the dark resembled fire, from its peculiar 
 whiteness: it is called Honey rock. On halting
 
 MARCH.] JOURNEY TO BETflELSDORP. 53 
 
 among the hills, a small hamper and a blanket were 
 missed from the luggage waggon. John and Michal 
 returned to search for them on the road. They re- 
 turned with them two or three hours after. 
 
 INIarch 1. About six, A.M. all being ready, we 
 proceeded towards the head of the pass, where we 
 had to go over a considerable hill, when an extensive 
 prospect opened, of a valley and hills beyond hills, 
 but all low except the range of high mountains which 
 still continued, on our left, to run north like a stu- 
 pendous wall. Our party made many attempts to kill 
 game, but hitherto without success. Passed two boors' 
 houses, crossed March river, and halted on a fine 
 plain to refresh our oxen and ourselves. After break- 
 fast, Cupido preached. About eleven, A.M. I took 
 a walk on the banks of the river, and sauntered 
 forward till it brought me to two hills, whose rocky 
 sides nearly touched each other, leaving only sufficient 
 space for the passage of the river. I sat down upon 
 a rock in this solitary place, and put my feet into the 
 water, which, from the sun's heat, was lukewarm. 
 While sitting on this rock, out of the view of all hu- 
 man beings, I recollected I was in the land of lions, 
 tygers, wolves, &c. I mused upon this till I almost 
 imagined one of them was at my back. I looked 
 up the pass towards where it closed, which was not 
 above 200 yards beyond me, and imagination fancied 
 dens of lions there; but the appearance of a little 
 crab moving at my feet diverted my attention from 
 these frightful imaginations, till my fancies returning
 
 54 JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 I thought it right to decamp. While retiring, as I 
 walked on the sand of the river, observing the foot- 
 steps of a man, like Robinson Crusoe, I shrunk back ; 
 but on looking around I found that the footsteps must 
 have been my own. 
 
 We left March river (as we called it for want of its 
 real name) at three o'clock, P.M. and at four had a 
 glimpse of IVIussel Bay. As we travelled along we 
 found the road strewed with dead beetles, most of 
 which die one of the most painful deaths conceivable. 
 Their entrails are eaten away by some httle insects. 
 I have found some walking along with little more 
 than their hearts left. Before sun-set we reached 
 Little Brak river ; and we arrived very opportunely, 
 for the tide from the ocean, which comes up every 
 twelve hours, was returned, and a postman who knew 
 the crossing well, came up at the time we had occa- 
 sion for his counsel. He rode foremost, then our 
 spare oxen followed, and after them our waggons ; and 
 we all got over safe, though our oxen, at one time, 
 had only a few inches of their bodies above water. 
 In ten minutes we had to cross another wide branch 
 of the same river, which, though not so broad as the 
 former, Mas deeper. Cupido gave some serious advice 
 to the black postman about salvation. We went forward 
 in the dark till about nine, P.M. when we were glad to 
 halt at a pool of water, being considerably fatigued. 
 
 2nd. When I awoke, at four in the morning, I 
 found we were surrounded by a thick fog. Walking
 
 MARCH.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. 55 
 
 to a little distance from the waggons, I perceived 
 the fog to be confined to the lower part of the valley, 
 between the hills ; for while walking, at one place it 
 was dark like night, but a hundred yards farther on 
 I enjoyed a clear attnosphere and pleasant sun-shine. 
 In about a quarter of an hour the sun dissipated the 
 whole, which reminded me of the scripture, which de- 
 scribes the goodness of some as resembling "the morn- 
 ing cloud, which passeth away :" I never before wit- 
 nessed so striking an exemplification of this simile. 
 At eight, A.M. we crossed a plain, encircled with 
 hills, beautifully covered with trees and bushes, about 
 five miles in circumference, through which the Brak 
 River runs in a serpentine course. This river we cross- 
 ed immediately on reaching it, when three other wag- 
 gons, that had been waiting for the retiring of the tide, 
 followed our example by crossing also. It was broad, 
 and at one part very deep ; but the worst was to come, 
 for almost immediately we had to ascend a steep hill, 
 which required, for a long time, the utmost exertion 
 of our oxen to drag up tlieir heavy burdens. On 
 reaching the summit, we found ourselves on the mar- 
 gin of an extensive plain, called Greenland, from 
 which there is a charming view of Mussel Bay. On 
 this plain we halted at nine, A.M. near a pool of 
 water, which, compared to what we had been drinking 
 for some days, was very good : opposite to which, on 
 an adjacent hill, we saw many sheep feeding, which 
 our people said were all runaway sheep, which now 
 belonged to no one.
 
 5a JOURNEY TO BETIIELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 Before dinner I walked to a wood below us, but 
 found it impenetrable, owing to the thickness of the 
 underwood : it formed a most convenient retreat for 
 wild beasts. I squeezed many of the surrounding 
 plants between my finger and thumb, and found they 
 emitted a pleasant scent. To observe the diversified 
 forms of the leaves of plants and trees affords great 
 gratification. Though all difi'ered, yet their forms 
 were so simple, that I wondered I had not conceived 
 of them before. 1 observed no part of the wood 
 that had been penetrated by man, but many that 
 seemed to have been visited by wild beasts. Our view 
 of the surrounding country was extensive, but in all 
 the range not one cultivated spot was visible. While 
 Cupido was exhorting at noon, three boors, on horse- 
 back, stopped for some time, seemingly astonished at 
 what was going forward. Thermometer, at seven, 
 A.M. 74: noon, 76. 
 
 Leaving Greenland at three, P.M. we travelled 
 over a plain until six in the morning, when we halted 
 at Mr. Barnard's, Kleinfootein, who received us with 
 much kindness into his house. While walking about 
 alone I came to a small hut, in which I observed a 
 very aged black woman, crouching by a small fire, for 
 the evening was cold. She was covered only with a 
 sheep-skin, and was very infirm and nearly blind with 
 age. I asked if she had ever heard of Jesus Christ, 
 bnt she could not understand me ; wherefore I went 
 in search of Cupido, whom I brought to her, but he
 
 MARCH.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. 57 
 
 could make nothing of her. A woman came who 
 informed us that this aged person was her grandmother, 
 that her mind was weak, and she knew nothine. Of 
 course w-e left her in the hands of God, who is the 
 judge of all the earth, and will act righteously towards 
 her. At eight, P.M. Cupido, before prayer, addressed 
 the family, slaves, and our company, who together 
 formed a tolerable cooffreojation. 
 
 34. Rose at five A.M. but findincr the morninfj 
 foggy, and the grass wet, I walked only in an orange 
 grove before the house, where I observed the passion 
 flower growing luxuriantly among the trees and bushes. 
 We found ourselves about five hours journey from 
 George Drosdy, and the road being very bad, the boor 
 kindly offered to assist us with fresh and strong oxen to 
 the Drosdy, which we thankfully accepted. Accord- 
 ingly, after worship and breakfast, he put twenty-four 
 good oxen to our waggons, and accompanied us himself. 
 In half an hour our gratitude to the boor for his 
 assistance was greatly increased, when we saw two 
 steep, rocky cliffs we had' to descend and to climb. The 
 oxen were frequently on their knees while ascending 
 the latter, in consequence of round projecting rocks 
 they had to surmount, on which they could not stand ; 
 however, by lying down, the poor creatures kept their 
 places until their companions got the waggon to 
 move a little forward, when they rose again upon their 
 feet and drew with all theii* might. After much noise 
 by tongues and whips, many falls, and much hai'd 
 pulling, we reached the summit without any accident 
 
 I
 
 58 JOURNEY TO BETIIELSDORP. [18 1; 
 
 We surmounted three other similar cuts between 
 mountains with similar success, but none of them were 
 quite so difficult as the first. We then came to a 
 descent of thirty yards only, but steeper than any we had 
 yet encountered ; it seemed like dropping the waggons 
 down from the top to the bottom. When the attempt 
 was made, every eye was directed to the waggon, and 
 none were unconcerned spectators. However, they 
 comforted me with this consideration, that these were 
 not so bad as some cliffs we had yet to encounter. 
 In this way I have been amused during the whole 
 journey — I could not contradict, because the regions 
 were utterly unknown to me. 
 
 As we approached the Drosdy, two Hottentots on 
 horseback met us from Hooge Kraal, where we in- 
 tended to fix a missionary. Having heard a report 
 that morning of our approach, the captain of the kraal 
 dispatched them to inquire into the truth of it. They 
 both appeared to be agreeable young men, and rode 
 along with us till we were safe over the last bad part 
 of the road, when they gallopped off in high spirits, 
 with the tidings of our being at hand, and were soon 
 out of sight. 
 
 At one, P.M. we arrived at George, which is so 
 named after his present majesty. The buildings com- 
 menced only about eleven months ago. The situation 
 was selected by Lord Caledon, the late governor, and 
 it has, I think, been judiciously chosen as a proper 
 place for a town. A more pleasant one I have not
 
 MARCH.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. 59 
 
 yet seen in Africa. It abounds with wood, water, and 
 majestic scenery. The neighbouring wood is exten- 
 sive, full of all kinds of trees belonging to the climate, 
 and sufficientto supply them with timber for a thousand 
 years. The ground is good either for corn or pasture; 
 there is plenty of clay for making bricks, and abun- 
 dance of lime on the sea shore, which is only a few 
 hours distant. The Landdrost's house is building — 
 the prison and court house are finished — the Secre- 
 tary's and some other houses are nearly finished — the 
 two principal streets are to cross each other at right 
 angles, and the church is to stand in the centre. The 
 streets will be two hundred feet wide ; on each side of 
 them is to be planted a row of trees, not only for 
 ornament, but for defending passengers from the 
 scorching rays of an almost vertical sun. 
 
 Soon after my arrival, I waited on the Landdrost, 
 who received me with much frankness, and shewed me 
 every attention. We went in his curricle to visit the 
 neighbouring wood, which was a gratifying object, 
 from the great height of the trees, and their all being 
 new to me ; and that which enhances their value is, they 
 are all evergreens. With much labour a considerable 
 stream of water has been carried across the wood 
 from a neighbouring mountain to supply the rising 
 town. The water resembles in colour Lisbon wine, 
 yet has an agreeable taste. The timber not only of 
 the iron tree, but of most of the others, was solid and 
 heavy, like a piece of marble. The underwood and 
 weeds growing among the trees were likewise novelties 
 
 I 2
 
 60 JOURNEY TO BETUELSDORP. [1815. 
 
 to me. Indeed, it would require one to live to the 
 9,ge of Methuselah to view all the variety of objects 
 tlie Creator has placed upon this world, and perhaps 
 eternity would be requisite to explore all the variety 
 existing in the boundless empire of Jehovah; for " who 
 by searching can find out God, who can find out the 
 Almighty unto perfection !" 
 
 The Hottentot captain of Hooge Kraal, whose 
 name is Dik Kop (or thick head), was at the Drosdy 
 before us, and in the afternoon about sixty people 
 from his kraal visited us also, when Cupido preached 
 to them — they were mostly females, the men being 
 engaged in working at the Drosdy. They remained 
 sleeping round our waggons all night. They were all 
 anxious to have a teacher sent to them. Their anxiety 
 arises from brotlier Head having preached some 
 time ago at the Drosdy, while attending the Circuit 
 Court. The Landdrost readily granted permission for 
 a missionary to settle among them. 
 
 4th. On intimating my intention to the Hottentot 
 captain, of visiting his kraal, he instantly dispatched two 
 of his people for horses to carry me and brotlier Barrlet, 
 who was to act as my interpreter. At one, P.i\J. we set 
 off, the captain and the others having gone forward on 
 foot. On arriving at the kraal, which was about three 
 miles from George, we collected the people in and 
 around the captain s hut, whicli was small, and composed 
 of rushes and branches of trees. The furniture consisted 
 of two low stools, aiid two or three pails for containing
 
 MAUcn.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. 6l 
 
 water. A very aged man, almost destitute of clothing 
 came into the hut, sat down at my side, kissed my 
 hands and legs, and by the most significant gestures 
 ex[)rcssed the greatest joy and gratitude, that a mis- 
 sionary was to be sent them. We asked him if he 
 knew any thing of Jesus Christ. His answer almost 
 petrified me. " I know no more, (said he), about 
 any thing than a beast." Could I but have brought 
 the great missionary meetings of the month of May, to 
 this kraal, to witness the scene that passed, I think they 
 would have thrown in handfuls of gold to aid the 
 missionary funds, till the Directors should be alarmed 
 and cry out like Moses at the tabernacle in the wilder- 
 ness, Stop brethren, you are giving more than is neces- 
 sary. Six or eight and twenty of us were packed into 
 a small hut ; a croud at the door ; every eye and ear 
 watching the motion of my lips, to know when I should 
 assure them that a missionary would come among 
 them. The captain oftered to go to Zwellendam and 
 bring brother Pacalt, which is a fortnight's journey. 
 They offered the largest house they had for his present 
 accommodation, and promised immediately to begin 
 building a better. After further conversation I assured 
 them he should come, and wrote a letter to Mr. Pacalt 
 in their presence, which I gave to their captain, who 
 engaged to go with it so soon as his waggon returned 
 from the mill, where it was sent for sonie meal. We 
 then got all the young people under twenty years of 
 age collected before us — there were about forty, many 
 of them interesting figures — they all expressed their 
 desire to be taught to read, which not one in the
 
 62 JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 kraal can ai present. We then walked to a rising 
 ground behind the kraal, to obtain a view of their 
 situation, to which we were accompanied by almost 
 the whole kraal, men, women, and children. The 
 young people played around us with uncommon cheer- 
 fulness. I doubt if they had ever before witnessed so 
 happy a day in their kraal. I trust this is a people 
 prepared of the Lord for receiving the gift of eternal 
 life through Jesus Christ our Lord. 
 
 The Landdrosts lady has a taste for collecting the 
 natural curiosities of the country, and she has been 
 pretty successful. I was gratified by a sight of many 
 of them, but the little time I had to spare prevented 
 me from seeing many more.
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 OCCURRENCES IN TRAVELLING FROM GEORGE TO 
 BETHELSDORP. 
 
 After taking leave of the Landdrost and family, 
 thanking them for their kind attention, we left George 
 at five P.M. Most vivid lightening issued from the 
 clouds which hung upon the high mountains on our 
 left, and we had a few loud peals of thunder. The 
 darkness of the night, about seven o'clock, caused the 
 flashes to appear with peculiar grandeur. We were 
 travelling to a timber boor's, (M. Standard), at Papoon 
 Kraal, who had kindly offered his oxen to take us. 
 over an extremely bad kloff. 
 
 There are various ways of helping forward the work 
 — the poor slaves and Hottentots, who had neither 
 silver nor gold to give, assisted in yoking our oxen 
 to the waggon, which is always a troublesome 
 business — a black man offered to drive our spare 
 oxen a stage, and this boor to lend us oxen to take us 
 over the kloof— indeed the boor's wife told us that the 
 kloof is so distressing to their beasts, that had one of
 
 64 JOURNEY TO BETIIELSDORP. [i813. 
 
 their neighbours offered twenty dollars to take two of 
 their waHilons over it, she would refuse, but she did 
 this for the cause of God, and well she may, for she 
 owes even her own soul to the missionaries, as God's 
 instruments, and her husband, I trust, is equally in- 
 debted to them, and many otliers scattered over this 
 part of Africa. He told me, that before the mis- 
 sionaries came among them, the people around, who 
 called themselves christians, knew litde more than 
 their cattle ; now there are christians indeed-, here and 
 there; all, directly, or indirectly, the result of mis- 
 sionary labours. Many of these grams of wheat have 
 sprung up almost imperceptibly. The knowledge of 
 divine things has been handed from person to person, 
 according to the parable of our Lord concerning the 
 leavea put into a measure of meal. The wisdom 
 displayed by the Redeemer in his parables, and many 
 of his sayings has struck me more forcibly since I 
 went into Africa, than ever before. 
 
 In the evening Cupido had an opportunity of 
 preaching at Mr. Standards, to upwards of thirty 
 people, almost all blacks. Several belonged to wag- 
 gons, that like our own, had halted for the night. I 
 never felt a stronger desire to be able to preach in 
 the Dutch language than upon this occasion. While 
 writing, four black females were passing my tent 
 dooi', each saying, good evening, as they vvere 
 about to depart with their master. 1 inquired 
 if they could read — with most significant shakes of 
 their heads, they all said. No; but that they had
 
 MARCH.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. 6S 
 
 heard from Mr. Read it was good for the soul, and 
 tljat upon their knees they ought to pray unto God. 
 After a little conversation they walked off suddenly, 
 in consequence, I suppose, of hearing the sound of 
 their master's waggon departing. 
 
 In the boors house there were two apartments. I 
 think about ten of us slept in one. The greater 
 number lay upon the floor ; however, I got my own 
 mattrass and bed clothes from the waggon, and slept 
 comfortably till the day began to dawn, but after 
 that, it was impossible, so great was the confused 
 noise of cows, dogs, and geese. 
 
 5th. Our departure was postponed till the morrow, 
 which gave Cupido an opportunity of preaching to 
 about sixty people, many of them travellers, halting 
 for the nisht. 
 
 'a 
 
 6th. Rose at five A.]\I. in the hope of getting for- 
 ward on our journey. Those who had been sleeping 
 around had only to shake themselves and stroke down 
 their clothes, and then go to work. When every thing 
 was made ready for departing, it began to rain; the 
 people then told us, it would be hn possible for their 
 oxen to draw the waggons over the kloofs, we must 
 therefore remain patiently till the rain should be over 
 and the roads dry. 
 
 The place is called Papoon, (or pumpkin) kraal, of 
 which Valliant in iiis Book of Travels says many 
 
 K
 
 66 JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 fine things, and certainly it is a charming place. The 
 boor is a simple hearted, friendly man, and appears to 
 fear the God of Israel. His wife is a sensible and 
 zealous Christian. She has many opportunities of 
 improvement, as her house is visited by travellers 
 almost every evening. 
 
 During a suspension of the rain, two of us walked 
 to a neighbouring wood, where every thing appeared 
 in a state of nature, never having experienced human 
 interference. The apparent disorder in which the trees 
 and shrubs stood, was far more enchanting to the 
 beholder than any human arrangement could have 
 made them, like the unequal length of the fingers on 
 the hand, whose inequality is an ornament. Many 
 trees of antiquity, rendered feeble by the lapse of time, 
 were unable to support themselves, and therefore re- 
 clined, in various positions, on those that were able to 
 support them; and as they had lost all their own 
 ornaments of leaves and flowers, other plants, such as 
 ivy, and wild vines were rapidly supplying this defect. 
 Many beautiful myrtles were growing to the height of 
 fifteen or twenty feet. 
 
 The wood lay between two mountains, and a river 
 flowed between, but so tall are the trees, and so 
 abundant their foliage, and so thick are the shrubs 
 on each side, that even at mid-day the river runs 
 in an agreeable obscurity. With great pleasure we 
 walked a little way along the left bank of this con- 
 cealed- river, under the shade of healthy evergreens.
 
 MARCH.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. 67 
 
 No place could be more retired. But while enjoying 
 this sublime gratificatioHj I observed a scorpion near 
 my foot, which we killed. Cupido preached to about 
 sixty people in the evening. 
 
 7th. Rose at six, and found the rain continuing to 
 fall pretty plentifully. The thunder rolled around us 
 the whole forenoon. It continued for a while on our 
 side of the mountains, then on the other, after which it 
 returned, and was succeeded by much rain, which 
 threatened to swell the rivers, to protract our stay at 
 Papoon kraal, and to try our patience. I spent most 
 of the day in musing on Stephen's last and dying speech, 
 which is a noble esample of fidelity to his master and 
 to man. His life was in the hands of his audience, 
 nevertheless he testified unto them the most cuttini£ 
 truths. Even when dying one of the most painful 
 deaths which imagination can fancy, he was unquestion- 
 ably the happiest man in the whole multitude. 
 
 A waggon which left Papoon kraal three days before 
 stuck fast in the mud, and there it remained immove- 
 able. The wolves were beginning to be rather trouble- 
 some. On Wednesday evening, while Cupido was 
 preaching at George, one of them attacked two cows 
 hard by, wounding the one and killing the other. Two 
 of the Hottentots who attended the worship, mounted 
 their horses and rescued the wounded animal. 
 
 Towards evening the rain began to descend in 
 torrents, which had a gloomy aspect to us travellers. 
 
 K 2
 
 e»8 JOURNEY TO BETIIELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 I felt much as in a calm at sea, when the ship lies 
 like a log in the water. Cupido preached at seven 
 A.M. and seven P.M. 
 
 8th. The rain continuing the whole night, I awoke 
 at four in the morning, by the drops falling upon my 
 pillow. At seven, the clouds began to disperse, and 
 the rain to cease — at nine, the sun began to shine, and 
 we had soon what is called a fine day. Three per- 
 sons were dispatched to examine the state of the river 
 and kloof. On I'eturning, they reported it would be 
 passable the next day, if there w ere no more rain. 
 
 There are three female slaves here, who come from 
 very different countries ; one from the East Indies, the 
 second from Madagascar, and the third from Mo- 
 sambique, yet they seem cheerful and happy ; but 
 no man, unless he view them with an adamantine 
 heart, can observe them without pity. They are re- 
 moved for ever from the place that gave them birth, 
 from parents, brothers, sisters, all their relations, and 
 all the companions of their youth. In retirement, 
 reflection on these deprivations must frequently occa- 
 sion the most pungent sorro^v. The original captors 
 and the holders of slaves are not aware of the misery 
 they are entailing upon that part of the human species. 
 The reason why they are not aware of it is, because 
 it adds to the riches of the one and the convenience 
 of the other; but certainly both are guilty of far 
 greater crimes than many in England who are punished 
 by transportation or death, such as shoplifting and
 
 MARCH.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. 69 
 
 forgery ; but this will not be acknowledged by the 
 present race, till they appear before the tribunal of the 
 Son of God. 
 
 Slaves and Hottentots seem not to regard being 
 thoroughly wet; they use no means to keep them- 
 selves dry. Many of them came in the evening to wor- 
 ship drenched with rain, yet sat down upon the floor 
 as contented as if they had been perfectly dry. Our 
 Hottentots use means to defend themselves from 
 the powerful rays of the sun, but it appears to them 
 of no consequence to be sheltered from the rain. 
 
 I confess that I derived much pleasure from behold- 
 ing the novelties of Africa ; yet I would rather see a 
 believer in Jesus than a mountain of crystal, con- 
 sidering the ibrmer to be a more wonderful work of 
 God than the latter, though I am aware, few com- 
 paratively will assent to my sentiment; at the same 
 time I must acknowledge, that I derive great pleasure 
 from examining the works of creation, as displays 
 of the wisdom and power of him who created 
 them. 
 
 After dinner, Mr. B— t. and I set out upon a 
 ramble in a wood to the eastward, and to examine the 
 state of the river after the rains. We endeavoured to 
 force our way down the hill, through the underwood, 
 but after toiling for an hour, we found we had made 
 little progress, and the difficulties before us appearing
 
 ro JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 insurmountable, we returned to the margin of the 
 wood. We attempted reaching the river by another 
 part of the wood, but we were equally unsuccessful; 
 yet our attempts to penetrate the wood were not alto- 
 gether fruidess, for thereby we had many views which 
 were very gratifying. In our excursion we came to 
 a tree which had apparently many thick ropes hanging 
 from its highest boughs, which were really as pliable as 
 an ordinary rope ; but how they ascended to so great a 
 height, without twisting round the tree or being aided 
 by its branches, we could not conjecture. It is called 
 by the natives Bavian s low, or Baboon's rope. The 
 wild vines were also abundant, some of which might 
 have measured two hundred feet in length. Returning 
 a second time to the skirts of the wood, we proceeded 
 in search of some path by which we might reach the 
 river, and such a path at length we found. It was 
 six or eight feet wide, arched over by the branches of 
 trees, and sometimes by superannuated trees lying 
 across. Along this path we walked about half a 
 mile before we reached the river. This we found to 
 be about thirty feet broad. We got upon a small 
 island in the middle, where we halted a little to observe 
 the surrounding scenery. The steep sides of the hills 
 were compleatly covered with ancient trees, and ap- 
 peared to hang over us. The first words on looking 
 up to them, which I almost felt impelled to utter, were, 
 grandeur upon grandeur ! Indeed I found' our language 
 inadequate to convey an idea of my feelings while 
 viewing these wonderful works of the Lord. The sun,
 
 MARCH.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. 71 
 
 •which was within an hour of retiring, so gilded about 
 half of what we beheld, as to throw an additional 
 splendor on the scene. The river was evidently 
 swelled by the late rains ; it was deep and rapid in its 
 course. We returned before sunset much gratified by 
 our excursion. 
 
 At the side of my bed at night, hung the carcase of 
 a fat sheep that had been killed in the day. When a 
 man has made up his mind to take every thing as it 
 comes, such extraordinaries will make but a trifling 
 impression — though I never before was placed for a 
 night so near a carcase that was to be eaten ; however 
 this occurrence scarcely occupied my thoughts for five 
 minutes. 
 
 We all rose in the morning by break of day in the 
 hope of recommencing our journey. Mr. Standard 
 yoked thirty-two excellent oxen to our two ^vaggons, 
 and happily we got once more in motion : after travel- 
 ling about four miles we reached the cliffs that had en- 
 grossed a great part of our conversation for several 
 days past. I confessed they exceeded what I had 
 previously conceived. At one place I observed a step 
 in the rock, which crossed the road, and must have 
 been two feet and a half in perpendicular height ; there 
 was also a quick, dangerous turn in the descent where 
 the rock was as smooth as glass. Here one of our 
 waggons took a swing, and was within half a foot of 
 being over the edge of the path, when it must have
 
 72 JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 fallen several hundred feet of perpendicular height. 
 The descent continued for about half a mile, when 
 we crossed a river about two hundred yards above its 
 entrance into the sea. It was not deep, as the tide 
 was down, but it was troublesome from the many large 
 stones that covered the bottom. When I viewed the 
 cliff we had to climb on the other side, I trembled for 
 the poor oxen ; however up they went, and after many 
 a lash, and many a fall, and the loss of some blood, 
 they dragged all safe to the summit, where we had 
 great reason to thank our kind friends for the service 
 they had done us. 
 
 After halting about two hours in the vicinity of a 
 brook, we proceeded on our journey. At three, P.M. 
 we came to a cliff somewhat like the former, but not 
 quite so bad, which, after consuming much time, we 
 also surmounted. A little after sunset we halted near 
 a wood, which our Hottentots told us was infested by 
 elephants, none of whom, however, were seen or heard 
 by any of us. 
 
 iOth. At six in the morning we were again in motion, 
 and in a few minutes entered the wood, across which 
 our road lay. The wood had a most venerable ap- 
 pearance, from the extraordinary loftiness and great 
 thickness of the trees, many of which must have 
 flourished in the ages of antiquity. A thousarni trees 
 taken from this extensive forest could scarcely be 
 missed, yet could they be transported to London, they
 
 MARCH.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. 73 
 
 would probably produce for the proprietor twenty or 
 thirty thousand pounds, but they are of trifling value 
 here, for the value of any article of course depends 
 upon the situation where it is. We continued for 
 some time admiring the immense size of this and that 
 tree ; but a prospect was soon presented, which com- 
 pletely diverted our attention from such objects of 
 curiosity. It was a long, rocky, and steep ascent. 
 Tlie first waggon, though twenty-six oxen were yoked 
 to it, was two hours before it reached the summit and 
 the second, with the same oxen, was three hours. 
 The bustle, and anxiety of our minds during these 
 five hours can only be conceived of by those who have 
 been placed in similar circumstances. The last waggon 
 was about two hours in moving forty yards, the oxen 
 sometimes falling, ineffectually drawing, getting into 
 disorder, or resting, Could the long string of oxen 
 be got to pull exactly at the same time, such difficul- 
 ties would be more easily surmounted; but perhaps 
 while some of the foremost are pulling, others behind 
 are standing with their heads where their tails should 
 be, and while getting these to wheel about, the front 
 ones get into disorder ; and though twenty draw 
 together, get if the two nearest the waggon, do not 
 act their part properly, the labour of the others 
 must be useless. I enter into these particulars to 
 assist firiends at home in forming a just conception of 
 travelling by oxen. While these things were going 
 for\\ ard, Mr. Bartlet and I were busily employed in 
 repairing as much of the road as we could, levelling 
 rocks and filling up holes : we completely repaired 
 
 I.
 
 74 JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 about a hundred feet, and a little improved the 
 remainder, which extended about half a mile to the 
 top. Many of the stones which we removed had pro- 
 bably lain in the middle of the path for a hundred 
 years, and damaged many a waggon, but because it 
 was equally the duty of every one that passed that way 
 to remove them, no one did it. 
 
 On arriving at the summit of this rocky ascent, we 
 felt like people at sea after weathering a severe storm ; 
 we had soon however something of a different nature 
 to encounter ; the rain descended and drenched most 
 of us to the skin. But for the rain and fog, this part 
 of the road would have been pleasant, being surrounded 
 with flowering shrubs of various forms and tints, all of 
 which would have been great curiosities in England. 
 We travelled on high ground, yet we came to the base 
 of a high mountain whose top was hid in a cloud, over 
 which it seemed our waggons must pass. We there- 
 fore halted to refresh and prepare our oxen for the 
 tiresome task. We soon lighted up a great fire, but 
 as the rain fell fast we could not get our clothes 
 dried. 
 
 At three, P.M. we began to ascend the mountain; 
 on reaching its summit a very extensive view opened 
 to us : at five we descended a long and steep declivity, 
 at the bottom of which is a place called Little Hell ; 
 for what reason I do not know, as there is nothing 
 terrific about it: from the lowest part of the road, 
 indeed, you look down to a deep hollow, but there is
 
 MARCH.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. 75 
 
 no cliff or precipice. We had now a still higher 
 mountain to get over, whose top we had not yet seen, 
 it beincT covered with clouds. Thoudi the sun had 
 
 o 
 
 nearly finished his race, to lessen the labour of the 
 next day, we determined to ascend part of it. We 
 scrambled up about a quarter of a mile, and there halted 
 for the night. The night being cool, and our clothes 
 damp in consequence of the rain, every one assisted to 
 collect materials for making a fire, and we soon had a 
 large one. 1 was afraid we should not procure water 
 on such high ground, but our Hottentot women soon 
 found some that was very good — indeed they find 
 water with facility where an European would perish 
 with thirst. 
 
 11th. We got out of the waggon before sun-rise; 
 the morning was pleasant, the sky serene. While the 
 people were collecting and putting in the oxen, we 
 made a great fire, and had some coffee. We began 
 to climb the mountain about half after five in the 
 morning, and reached the summit about nine. The 
 oxen of the two waggons were obliged to be yoked for 
 sometime to our luggage waggon. At one turn in the 
 hill we spent an hour and a half in getting round it, 
 owing to the great length to which twenty-six oxen 
 reach, and the sharpness of this turn ; when they all 
 pulled, it was nearly impossible to prevent the waggon 
 being turned over the precipice, which must have 
 dashed it to atoms. The remains of two waggons 
 were lying at the bottom of this cliff as a warning to 
 us to beware of the danger. The fore wheel at one 
 
 L 2
 
 76 JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 time got to the top of the mud fence, when all hands 
 went to work, in order to lift the fore part of the wag- 
 gon back into the road, which we happily effected : 
 for some time this bad to be done almost every yard 
 the waggon advanced; however, we reached the top 
 of this ascent in safety, and soon after we all arrived 
 on the summit of the hill, when every one seemed 
 pleased, and ready to congratulate each other on the 
 occasion. This summit is called Devil's Kop, (or 
 Devil's Head.) 
 
 I do not know how high the roads may lie over the 
 Appenine mountains in Italy, but I question if wag- 
 gons loaded so heavy were ever mounted higher in 
 the air, than those which crossed this mountain. The 
 surrounding prospect was highly interesting. Platen- 
 burgh Bay composed part of it. But neither house, 
 nor man, nor beast, nor any cultivated spot being visi- 
 ble, gave rather a dullness to the prospect. Elephants 
 and buffaloes traverse these mountains, but none shew- 
 ed themselves to us. Elizabeth pointed to a cliff in 
 the old road, where a waggon and oxen fell over, and 
 were literally dashed to pieces. 
 
 After many ups and downs, we arrived at White 
 River, about eleven, A.M. The only occurrence dur- 
 ing this part o-f the journey was, that the chain con- 
 fining one of the wheels broke while descending a 
 very steep and stony part of a hill; but by keeping 
 the oxen running as fast as they were able before the 
 waggon, they reached the bottom in safety. They told
 
 MARCH.] JOURNEY TO BETHKLSDORP. 77 
 
 US that the greatest impediments during the remaining 
 part of our journey to Bethelsdorp, would be the 
 rivers. We were now in a plain called the Long 
 Kloof. Thermometer 70. 
 
 Left White River at five, P.M. A httle before sun- 
 set. Gasper killed a brace of fine partridges, and at- 
 tempted to shoot two roe-bucks, but they saved their 
 hves by a speedy flight. At eight, P.M. we came to 
 Sondag (or Sunday) Place, on Koorbomes River. Our 
 Hottentots called at the boor's to purchase flour, but 
 be had none to spare. I walked after them, and 
 found the boor could speak English. The family and 
 slaves were together in a large room, which was a 
 comfortable one. Though the boor could spare no- 
 thing for us, he anxiously solicited some snuff from us, 
 when I gave him a little out of my box. Tobacco, 
 snuff', powder, tinder-boxes, and flints, are the chief 
 articles in request in these parts. On leaving Sondag 
 Place, we crossed a fen in which were many pools of 
 water, through which our road lay. There is a chain 
 of hills runs on each side of this long valley, which by 
 planting trees, or by cultivation, might be made one of 
 the most delightful spots in Africa : at present it is a 
 lonely wilderness, having nothing to relieve the wearied 
 eye except the variously shaped mountains. At eleven, 
 P.M. we passed another boors place, and were sa- 
 luted with the barking of many dogs, which seem to 
 abound in Africa more than men. These animals are 
 only useful as watchers. A shepherd's dog from Britain 
 would have assisted us more in driving our spare
 
 78 JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 cattle, than a thousand African ones. It would be well 
 if some of these were sent over to instruct African 
 dogs to be more useful to their masters. Perhaps 
 were the people here to witness their sagacity, they 
 would suspect they were rational beings. The moon 
 retired about midnight, and we halted where the hills, 
 on each side, nearly met. 
 
 12th. We could not travel a stage in the morning, 
 as the oxen were not sufficiently rested. We sent to a 
 boors place, about a mile distant, in search of pro- 
 visions : it was called Wildeboom (or Wildtree) Place. 
 The family had much the appearance of a fai'mer's 
 family in England. We dined with them. Water is 
 the only drink at this meal : whatever may be eaten, 
 little is drank. Perhaps it would be the same in Eng- 
 land were only water served up. The people might 
 have plenty of wine, if they chose to be at the trouble 
 to put into the ground a sufficient number of vines ; 
 and there are millions of empty acres on which to 
 plant them. When we had returned from a walk in 
 the garden, the mistress reproved her son for taking 
 us there ; for, in consequence of long wild grass grow- 
 ing in many parts of it, she said, it was full of ser- 
 pents ; and none of us wore boots. 
 
 We spent much of our time while here with Mr. 
 Barkhouse, son of the boor, who lives at a small dis- 
 tance. He is rather a singular character, having been 
 dumb from a child. He never was taught any trade, 
 yet he is a good carpenter, waggon maker, founder,
 
 MARCH.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. 79 
 
 and smith. He makes every thing about a musket 
 except the barrel and the lock, with many other 
 articles, especially cutlery ; and all are executed nearly 
 as well as if done by the best workmen in Europe. 
 He knows exactly what every thing he does ought to 
 be charged, but how he knows it I cannot conceive. 
 While I was with him he pointed significantly first to 
 his ears, then to his mouth, and then to the heavens ; 
 evidently intimating that the God of heaven had 
 chosen to make him what he was, deprived of two 
 of the most valuable faculties of man, hearing and 
 speech. His bed-curtains attracted my attention, being 
 entirely composed of rushes, and looked very well. 
 
 After dinner I walked to a brook of charming 
 water, to indulge myself with a draught of its crystal 
 stream. A slave, about thirty years of age, who had 
 watched my motions, came running to me, and asked 
 me if he should bring me a bason to drink out of. On 
 bringing it, he seated himself by the side of the brook, 
 and told me that all the slaves there would like to go 
 to the schools, (a name given here to missionary sta- 
 tions,) to learn to read; but, said he, we have to 
 work, and cannot go, but could not one of them come 
 to us ? We work from six in the morning to six in the 
 evening, and should have plenty of time before and 
 after that to learn. Neither Cicero nor Demosthenes 
 could have said any thing to touch my heart more 
 than the words of this poor black slave. Had I pos- 
 sessed the power, I certainly should have instantly 
 created a missionary, and there have left him with
 
 so JOURNEY TO BETIIELSDORP. [i813. 
 
 them. I asked him if there would be a sufficient 
 number of people in the kloof for a missionary to 
 labour amongst. O plenty ! plenty ! said he. Yet it 
 would require a telescope to see from one house to 
 another. But the man was in good earnest for in- 
 struction. I gave him some encouragement to expect 
 assistance as soon as it might be in the power of the 
 society to afford it. I inquired of the family how they 
 spent their time on Sabbath days, seeing they were 
 many days' journey from any place of worship. They 
 said, in reading good books. 
 
 In the winter they have sometimes much snow and 
 ice in the kloof ; for though it is a valley at the bottom 
 of hills, yet it lies several hundred feet above the level 
 of the sea, and for want of cultivation the ground is 
 damp. 
 
 We left Wildeboom at six, P.M. ascended a long 
 steep hill, and travelled for some time along the side 
 of one, when we came again into a narrow valley, 
 between mountains. I never before adverted much 
 to the utility of frogs. I cannot say that wherever there 
 is -water there are frogs, but generally wherever there 
 are frogs you will find water; and in a still evening 
 they are heard when half a mile distant ; so that by 
 their croaking they seem to call upon the thirsty to 
 come and drink. A little after midnight we halted. 
 
 13th. At seven, A.M. we were again in motion : at 
 eight, though cloudy, the thermometer was at 85.
 
 MARCH.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. 81 
 
 Flowers seem to have their native districts as well as 
 men: we met with many new ones this day. We halted 
 about nine, A.M. at another place called Sondag. 
 Those who have lived all their days in this retired 
 corner, must have as confined conceptions of the 
 world they dwell in, as those who have never been out 
 of the little island of St. Helena. Nothing could be 
 obtained for money from the boor : indeed the family, 
 and most of the slaves, kept at as respectful a distance 
 as if we had been an invading enemy. If I might 
 judge from the meagre appearance of the dogs, which 
 made various attempts to plunder our waggons, food 
 must be very scarce. At five, two waggons halted 
 on the other side of the river. They came from 
 Namasia to attend a vendue, (or auction,) which was 
 to be at this place on the morrow. 
 
 In the morning our Hotta.itot, John, was sent back 
 to search for an ox that had fallen behind during the 
 night. He returned with it about nine at night : he 
 had been so persevering as to go back to Sondag 
 Place, which was at least twelve or fourteen miles; 
 and on his return I could not but notice his apathy. 
 Notwithstanding his having walked about four and 
 twenty miles, without tasting any thing but water, yet 
 on his arrival he sat carelessly douii by the fire, and 
 said nothing of his long walk, want of food, or success 
 in finding the ox. Nor did the other Hottentots ask 
 him one question about the matter: they saw the 
 ox was found, and John was alive ; and that satisfied 
 
 M
 
 82 JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 them. In England, such an occurrence would have 
 afforded matter for talking at least half an hour. 
 Though the moon was risen, yet as it was dark from 
 the density of the clouds, and as the road we had to tra- 
 vel was rather intricate, we judged it prudent to pro- 
 tract our departure until the morning. • However, 
 about ten o'clock, P.M. the clouds became lighter, 
 which encouraged us to proceed on our journey. 
 Little descents of thirty or forty feet, frequently oc- 
 curring, were rather troublesome. At four o'clock in 
 the morning we halted at Roy Crans River, among 
 mountains. 
 
 14th. On the halting of the waggon, I took a soli- 
 tary walk along the river, observing the gradual ap- 
 proach of day. All was still : our oxen were asleep 
 around our waggons ; and so seemed every thing that 
 had life, except frogs and crickets, which incessantly 
 make a noise while the darkness continues, thus doing 
 all in their power to remove the gloom. During this 
 walk my mind mused upon many things connected 
 with a land which was then far off. I compared the 
 advantages of that country with the miseries of this 
 wilderness, where ignorance of those subjects which 
 are of eternal moment reigns without a check. May 
 " the Angel of the Covenant work wondrously" for poor 
 Africa ! I hope the day is not far distant, when this 
 desert land shall be peopled and cultivated, and men 
 deserving to be called " trees of righteousness" shall 
 flourish here, and glorify the God of Israel.
 
 MAUCH.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSbORP. 83 
 
 At eleven, A.M. Cupido preached. He spoke of 
 every thing coming from God : he asked, " Who 
 made the trees? You will say, They came from other 
 trees. Well then, (said he,) who made the first 
 tree? It could not be man, or he would be able to 
 make them still ; but it is beyond the power of man to 
 make a tree : it must be God." At eight, A.M. 
 thermometer 70 : at noon, 78. 
 
 At five, P.M. we proceeded on our way : there was 
 much thunder on our left, but it did not come near us, 
 and we had only a small portion of the rain that fell. 
 At seven we passed a boor's who had nothing to spare. 
 At ten we crossed Deep River, which at that time 
 did not answer to its name, being very shallow ; but 
 in the rainy season it may be deep enough. The 
 ground sparkled with glow-worms, like the starry 
 heavens. Naturalists suppose the females are furnished 
 with this luminous appearance to discover to their mates 
 where they may be found. I cannot refute this suppo- 
 sition ; yet I imagine it may answer another purpose, 
 viz. that of defence. Providence has kindly furnished 
 every living creature with some means for defending its 
 own life : to some he has given stings ; to others horns, 
 or sharp claws, or coats of mail, or wings, or swiftness, 
 or tusks, or power to make a terrifying noise, or mus- 
 cular strength, or a strong castle to retreat into like 
 the tortoise and other shell animals; and perliaps God 
 has given this little star to the glow-worm to frighten 
 away some particular foe. It is certain that the light 
 of fire in the night frightens away the most ferocious 
 
 M 2
 
 84 JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 animals. Hence when God promises the utmost 
 protection to his church, he says he will be as a wail 
 of fire around, which neither lions nor tygers will 
 penetrate. Perhaps many inferior animals are equally 
 afraid of that element. 
 
 15lh. We halted at five o'clock in the morning, 
 but how the oxen were able to continue twelve hours 
 dragging our waggons I know not; however, Cupido, 
 who is our travelling director, and I believe a humane 
 Hottentot, ordered it, wherefore I conclude it was 
 right. — Thermometer at nine A.]\I. seventy-eight; at 
 five P.M. seventy-one. 
 
 A neighbouring boor made us a visit after breakfast. 
 After returning to his house, he sent me some bunches 
 of grapes, and some excellent milk. He offered us a 
 cheese for a bottle of our wine, to which exchange we 
 readily assented. He afterwards sent his own bottle 
 for the wine ; it was well for him he did so, for it 
 would hold twice as much as our bottles. The 
 boor from the other side of Krakel river, kindly sent 
 a horse to bring me over the river to dine with him. 
 After dinner I walked about his premises. While 
 walking about, I observed one of the Hottentots going 
 to chastise a dog who had done some damage in the 
 vineyard, though the dog had a stick tied to his neck 
 to prevent his entering. The Hottentot took him 
 near the spot where the offence was committed, where 
 he gave him the chastisement. The instant that the 
 culprit was set at liberty, the other dogs, about thirty
 
 MARCH.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. 85 
 
 I believe, thought they were bound to give him a 
 second drubbing. 'I'hey rushed upon him from all 
 directions, but his treating pretty roughly two or three 
 of his first assailants, made him respected by the 
 other dogs, when they received him back to their 
 society as a friend, and he seemed to indicate that he 
 was happy at having got over this affair. When this 
 business was finished, a curious frolic was exhibited by 
 another Hottentot, who appeared somewhat of an 
 eccentric character. By sounds and signs he got all 
 the dogs to surround him, and appear as if worrying 
 him to death. In consequence of the seeming wounds 
 he had received from them, he gradually sunk down 
 among them, when by the number that stood around 
 and upon him, he was completely out of sight ; after 
 which he rose smiling, when the dogs went away as if 
 satisfied they had performed their part well, seeing the 
 man had sustained no injury. 
 
 Near the house 1 counted twenty-nine aloes in 
 flower ; some of the stalks measured thirty-eight feet in 
 height, and two feet and a half in circumference at 
 the bottom — =a wonderful growth in one year ! What 
 a curiosity would these be esteemed in the vicinity of 
 London, where it is believed they only come into 
 flower once in a hundred years, at which imposition 
 on London credulity the Africans laugh heartily. If 
 an aloe produces seed when it sends up a flower, it 
 dies that year ; if not, it lis^es and sends forth a flower 
 again. The boor entertained us at dinner by re- 
 lating the feats of tygers in the neighbouring hills.
 
 86 JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. [1813, 
 
 The slaves and Hottentots all seemed happy at this 
 house ; of course they were well treated. 
 
 We parted from this kind family about four P.M. 
 and proceeded on our journey. We passed another 
 boor's place about six, and then crossed a river; at 
 eleven, P.M. we descended to a deep hollow, of a 
 circular form, surrounded by hills, and near the source 
 of Kroom river, which is the boundary of separation 
 between the Drosdies of George and Uitenhagen, and 
 there we halted during the night. 
 
 1 6th. The morning light discovered the beauty and 
 loneliness of the place where we had spent the night. 
 Our waggon stood as in the centre of a basin, across 
 which ran an excellent stream of water, and large 
 geraniums, with many other handsome flowers, grew 
 around. There was a fog on the hills, which 
 formed a canopy only a little higher than the wag- 
 gons, but none of us had caught any cold whilst 
 asleep, though much exposed to these damps. We 
 found many of the plants had a scent similar to sage. 
 The valley lower down for about ten miles between 
 the mountains is entirely a morass, in which nothing 
 but tall rushes and other water plants grow. I ob- 
 served plenty of a kind of rushes that grow abundantly 
 in Scotland, and have their roots sunk very deep into 
 the earth. I noticed a snail crawling along with its 
 house on its back, at least four times as large as the 
 largest I have seen in England.
 
 MARCH.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. 87 
 
 I find the word span to be used in various ways in 
 Africa : a span of oxen means a sufficient number 
 to draw a waggon : to take the oxen from the 
 waggon in order to feed, is, to outspan : yoking 
 them again is to inspan : oxen feeding on a journey 
 are said to be spaning : the place where they feed 
 is called a spaning-place. Thermometer at ten A.M. 
 eighty-four — ditto at two P.M. eighty-three. ^ 
 
 Notwithstanding the very distracted state in which 
 Europe was involved when I left it, hardly a creature 
 here knew any thing of its trouble. Were they better 
 acquainted with revealed truth, perhaps this would be 
 a happy ignorance. 
 
 The hills a little to the south of our spaning-place 
 are extremely barren, being almost entire rocks, whose 
 shapes however are interesting. Departed at four 
 P.M. still travelhng in a wilderness. Indeed the 
 country hardly deserves to be called inhabited, for 
 there is not one family in every ten miles, and it is 
 remarkable, that wherever there are few inhabitants 
 there are few birds ; for though the feathered tribes 
 fear, yet they court the society of man. Thus the 
 country wears the aspect of desolation, all things 
 remaining as the deluge left them in the days of 
 Noah. At seven P.M. we halted for worship and 
 supper; when beginning the latter, we discovered that 
 the vessel which contained all our butter had fallen 
 from tlie waggon. Our first messenger returned with-
 
 88 JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 out it, but a second being sent off with him, they found 
 it in the middle of the highway, about two miles dis- 
 tant. Being full moon, we were encouraged to pro- 
 ceed about nine o'clock on our way, which lay over 
 hills, and we crossed Kroom river three times. I 
 slept in the waggon as it moved along, from eleven 
 P.M. to two in the morning, when they waked me 
 to alight, as we were come to a steep descent. Several 
 balls of fire appeared in the air, which vanished with 
 a little explosion. 
 
 17th. We continued our journey between mountains 
 and along the banks of the Kroom till four o'clock 
 in the morning. This was washing day, but it does 
 not occasion much trouble, as they wash every thing 
 in cold water ; yet they make the linen as white as 
 any I ever saw. Kroom river considerably increased 
 as we descended, and the water was excellent. 
 
 The Hottentots, who are the aborigines of this 
 country, are a people nearly extinct ; a few kraals only 
 remaining within the limits of the colony. They are 
 far from being so barbarous a race as they are usually 
 supposed to be by Europeans, who in their ordinary 
 talk will say. As wild as a Hottentot — as savage as a 
 Hottentot, &c. just as they say. As rich as a Jew — as 
 cunning as a Jew. They have nothing more savage about 
 them than the peasantry in England. 1 have seen fami- 
 lies in London living in more dirty hovels than ever I 
 saw Hottentots, and many in London have conjmitted
 
 MAHCH.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. sg 
 
 more atrocious deeds than any I have ever heard 
 the Hottentots charged with. I think the Hotten- 
 tot mind is better cultivated than the minds of many in 
 the lowest ranks in London ; and I should expect to 
 be much better served, and to be more safe in tra- 
 velling with twenty Hottentots, than with twenty 
 Europeans. The rain falling down in torrents, the 
 oxen could not proceed ; wherefore we halted at ten, 
 P.M. and waited for better weather. 
 
 18th. We began our journey at six, A.M. through a 
 thick fog and rain ; of course we saw nothing but what 
 was in our immediate neighbourhood. Passed a boor's 
 house at eight, where we obtained three loaves. At 
 eleven, A.M. we halted on a barren waste, surrounded 
 by hills at a little distance. I walked to an eminence, 
 whence I had an extensive view of the wilderness 
 around. Lions and tygers have surely a right to reign 
 and roam here, as neither men nor domesticated ani- 
 mals appear to inhabit it. The sight of a bird does not 
 remove the gloom, which seems to overhang every 
 thing; for its solitary situation rather excites pity 
 than conveys pleasure. 
 
 Thermometer at six, A.M. 66:— at noon, 64>; 
 cloudy:— at five, P.M. 62. 
 
 Proceeded at three, P.M. At four the hills M'ere 
 so near each other, that there was barely room be- 
 tween them for the waggon and a small brook, whose 
 
 N
 
 S& JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. [1813, 
 
 water resembled soap suds, owing probably to a mix- 
 ture of white clay. Our oxen trod upon a serpent, 
 which we afterwards killed. When dark we travelled 
 over hills among long grass. At nine, P.M. we 
 arrived at Zuur Bron, (Sour well,) inhabited by three 
 Hottentot brothers and their females. They are about 
 to remove to Bethelsdorp, being ordered away by a 
 boor who has lately purchased the neighbouring farm, 
 of which the ground which they were allowed to 
 occupy formerly is considered a part. As they have 
 been a long time there, they seem reluctant to leave 
 it. We carried our supper into their house, and 
 ate it in the midst of them. About twenty people 
 were assembled in this small house; but Hottentots, 
 when sitting, occupy a small space. After supper, 
 Cupido gave an exhortation before prayer. When on 
 the eve of departing, the Hottentots offered, if we 
 would stop till the morning, to lend their oxen to help 
 us over a very rough part of the road. To this pro- 
 posal we readily consented, and soon fell asleep. 
 
 19th. When I awoke, about three in the morning, 
 I found all was ready for departing. We were obliged: 
 to turn out and walk down a long, steep, and stony 
 descent. We crossed several rivers, one of which, 
 called Hampto, is wide and deep. Travellers are 
 sometimes stopped a week by the rising of this river. 
 We halted at six, A.M. on a small charming plain, 
 only a few hundred yards in circumference, sur- 
 rounded by hills and shrubbery. Mr. Bartlet, with his
 
 MATiCH.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. 51 
 
 axe, soon cut out an opening in a thicket of trees, where 
 we had worship and breakfast, and where I sat writing 
 most of the morning : indeed I hardly ever saw a httle 
 spot more suited to my taste. A small river of good 
 water winds almost round it. Thermometer at seven, 
 A.M. 64; a few clouds; — ^at noon, 78; — at five, 
 P.M. 74. 
 
 This delightful spot on Kein River, I understand 
 belongs to no one. It would be a charming situation 
 for a missionary station. As there is water at present, 
 immediately after summer, there is hkely to be water 
 all the year; and the grass is good. I observed two 
 kinds of broom, one bearing a yellow, and the other a 
 blue flower. Ants' nests are numerous : in shape they 
 resemble a baker s oven, and are from two to four feet 
 high. These industrious creatures have their enemies, 
 especially a creature about the size of a fox, who, 
 after piercing a hole in the side of the nest, pushes in 
 his tongue, when the unwary ants rush towards it in 
 order to investigate what has happened. The tongue 
 being covered with these insects, he draws it in, and 
 swallows the whole. This be repeats till he has de- 
 voured millions. The bees also sometimes covet and 
 take possession of the house they have reared with so 
 much labour. The boors also, when travelling, fre- 
 quently clear out these nests, and use them as ovens 
 for baking their bread. 
 
 A female Hottentot belonging to Bethelsdorp, with 
 her two children, joined our company. When I asked
 
 92 JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 the age of her children, she seemed as much surprised 
 at the question, as if I had inquired how many hairs 
 they had upon their heads. I then asked her how 
 many times the sun had come near them since her 
 eldest daughter was born : she supposed, three times; 
 which I judged to be correct, as the child appeared 
 to be about three years old. 
 
 We considered our present progress to be slow ; but 
 slow and swift are only comparative terms. The mail 
 coach in England moves slowly compared with the 
 flight of a pigeon ; and the motion of a pigeon is no- 
 thing when compared with that of a planet ; and that 
 of a planet is slow when compared with the motion of 
 light. The progress of our oxen is swift when com 
 pared with that of a snail or cameleon. Such con- 
 siderations promote patience. At six, P.M. we had a 
 view of the ocean, which helped to vary the scene. 
 Cupido pointed to a distant hill that was within two 
 hours' journey of Bethelsdorp. At seven, P.M. we 
 came down a steep descent, when the hinder wheels 
 of our waggons were frequently raised from the 
 ground. Four years ago a boor was killed when going 
 down the same place, by the waggon overturning upon 
 him. At the rising of the moon we were much grati- 
 fied by the sight of a lunar rainbow. About nine 
 my waggon was nearly overturned by one of the 
 wheels sinking into a deep hole. During the night 
 there was much vivid lightning, attended with thunder 
 and rain.
 
 MARCH.] JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. 93 
 
 SOth. Halted about four in tlie morning, on a hill 
 nearly covered with trees, and not far from the ocean. 
 In the absence of all other sounds, the noise of the 
 sea was very solemn. As it rained fast from six to 
 eight o'clock in the morning, we feared we should 
 make no progress during the day, tlie roads being 
 very soft. However, Cupido, our commander, after 
 examining the road, resolved to make a trial to 
 proceed. While the oxen were putting to the waggons, 
 I walked down a pretty opening in the wood, where I 
 had a pleasant view of the sea, two or three miles 
 distant. 
 
 Immediately after our departure we had to go 
 down a long, steep, and rocky descent. We found 
 it a troublesome business, and it was eleven o'clock 
 A.M. before both waggons reached the bottom, where 
 we found Vanstade River and an extensive forest. 
 About noon we halted on a hill, where we were joined 
 by a waggon belonging to Bethelsdorp, and likewise by 
 twelve men on horseback, who were a patrole search- 
 ing among woods and bushes for Caffres, as the colony 
 is at present at war with that people. When com- 
 mencing our last stage to long-desired Bethelsdorp, we 
 were joined by three waggons going to Uitenhagen; 
 so that the six waggons and the patrole made a formi- 
 dable appearance, as if we had been a commando (or 
 an expedition) against the Caffres, especially as we 
 travelled in a desert, where no beings were visible 
 but ourselves.
 
 94 JOURNEY TO BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 About midnight we came to the head of the descent 
 which leads down to Bethelsdorp. Though the moon 
 was risen yet still it was dark, in consequence of the 
 heavens being overspread with thick clouds. How-ever, 
 I soon understood that we approached near to the 
 settlement, by some of our people firing their muskets, 
 as signals of our arrival, which were soon answered 
 by some discharges from the settlement. Many of the 
 young people, in high spirits, came out to meet us : 
 then Mr. Read, and the other brethren, with many 
 others, came and gave us a hearty welcome. From 
 the solitary road, on which we had been travelling, a 
 concourse of people, and the sound of many voices, 
 produced a peculiar sensation. I felt as if instantane- 
 ously introduced into a new world. On reaching Mr. 
 Read's house, many surrounded it, in order to see the 
 strangers who had come from afar. I suppose some of 
 the young people slept little that night, for I heard 
 them running about at three o'clock in the morning, 
 after which I fell asleep.
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 OCCURRENCES AND INVESTIGATIONS AT BETHELSDORP, 
 
 March 20. 
 
 xxBOUT sun-rise the bell called the people to 
 worship in the meeting house ; the service continued a 
 little more than half an hour. At ten o'clock the 
 church and congregation assembled, when, after praise, 
 prayer, and reading of the scriptures, Mr. Wimmer 
 delivered an animated discourse, not standing, but 
 sitting, as our Lord did when he preached in the 
 synagogue of Nazareth, (Luke iv. 20.) The assembly 
 was large and attentive. In the afternoon, a Hotten- 
 tot, a member of the church, began the service by en- 
 gaging in prayer, and when they had sung an hymn, 
 any member of the church who chose being permitted 
 to give a word of exhortation, a Hottentot spoke with 
 much modesty and propriety. After uniting again in 
 prayer and praise the i)eople were dismissed, when 
 the members had what they called a love feast, each 
 person having a cup of coffee poured out to him froni 
 a kettle, and a small biscuit given him, which was 
 done without the smallest bustle or confusion. During
 
 96 BETHELSDORP. [i813. 
 
 this, several short remarks were made by the brethren, 
 after which I mentioned a few things which I thought 
 might interest them. We then celebrated the Lord's 
 supper together, as is their custom every first day of 
 the week. When the wine began to be distributed, 
 they sung an hymn, after which the church separated. 
 This ordinance was short, yet very animating. 
 
 In the evening they met for worship, when Mr. 
 Corner, a black, from the West Indies, led the ser- 
 vice. Though sent out by the Missionary Society but 
 little more than a year ago, he has made such progress 
 in the Dutch language, that he can already exhort in 
 it. He is a carpenter by trade, has two or three 
 apprentices, and is a useful member of the com- 
 munity. 
 
 21st. I had heard much against Bethelsdorp since 
 my arrival in Africa, and I must confess it has a most 
 miserable appearance as a village. The houses are 
 mean in the extreme, and apparently very irregularly 
 placed ; they say, however, that the huts were arranged 
 according to a plan, which I believed after it was 
 pointed out to me, but in consequence of some having 
 fallen down, and their owners having built elsewhere, 
 others having gradually decayed in consequence of the 
 people leaving them to go into the service of the 
 farmers, and others of the inhabitants being called to 
 public service, the original plan has been compleatly 
 deranged, and now it appears as irr^ularly built as 
 either the city of Norwich or town of Manchester.
 
 MARCH.] BETHELSDORP. 97 
 
 The ground on which it stands is barren in the ex- 
 treme, so that nothing green is to be seen near the 
 houses; this also adds to the gloominess of the 
 village. Neither trees nor gardens are to be seen to 
 relieve the eye; but all this arises from the total 
 want of good water on their ground, except in the 
 barren spot where the village stands. In consequence 
 of the miserable appearance of the village, the settlers 
 are by many people reported to be extremely in- 
 dolent. 
 
 That there are indolent people at Bethelsdorp, as 
 well as in all other places, especially in South Africa, 
 I have no doubt; but from what I have seen and 
 heard, I believe there are also many who are indus- 
 trious and active. People in general make no allow- 
 ance for their early habits of indolence in the houses 
 of boors, where they have very little real work to 
 employ their time, and few people who call there 
 ever enquire what work is performed or what ground 
 is cultivated. I visited their farms in the afternoon, 
 which lie about a mile and a half distant, on Little 
 Zwartkops River. I found there, ground cultivated 
 on both sides of the river for upward of two miles. 
 Indeed I had not seen so much cultivated land in 
 any part of Africa where 1 had yet been — three 
 times more than is to be seen at Bavian's Kloof, 
 though an old missionary station, compared to Bethels- 
 dorp; but the soil is still more barren at Bavian's 
 Kloof,
 
 CJ8 BETHELSDORP. fiSlS-, 
 
 After riding along the cultivated ground, I came to 
 the oxen, which had just been driven home for the 
 night. Except in Smithlield, I had never seen so 
 many together ; indeed, I remarked that we had now 
 arrived at the metropohs of those animals. We re- 
 turned to Bethelsdorp just in time for their evening 
 worship. Thermometer at noon, sixty-two. Was in 
 conversation with the brethren till three o'clock in the 
 morning. 
 
 22d. Set off at eleven A.M. with brethren Ulbricht 
 and Bartlet to Uitenhagen, where the commandant and 
 Landdrost reside, which is about nine miles from 
 Bethelsdorp. We had to cross Zwartkops river, which 
 was wide and deep in consequence of the late rains. 
 The water was two inches above the bottom of our 
 waggon. Colonel Vickers, who is Civil and military 
 commander of the four interior districts, received me 
 in the most friendly manner, and politely offered to 
 serve me in any way in his power. He expressed the 
 same sentiments that I entertained with respect to the 
 external appearance of Bethelsdorp, and thought the 
 civilization of the people must be greatly retarded by 
 ^Jie mean manner in which they live. 
 
 I could not but acknowledge to the Colonel, that I 
 was affected with the first view I had of Bethelsdorp, 
 much in the same way as he had been; but on 
 examination, I found there were causes which the 
 missionaries could not controul — tliat they had always
 
 MARCH.] BETHELSDORP. 99 
 
 supposed they had no security for their continuance at 
 that place, owing to its barrenness and other consi- 
 derations, that they had therefore built their houses of 
 reeds, which, though they look very well at first, soon 
 fall into decay, and assume a ruinous appearance ; 
 and that from the number of the people constantly in 
 the service of the boors, and the most active being 
 called to perform public service, such as going against 
 the Caffres, and serving as guides at the different mi- 
 litary posts, for which they have hitherto received 
 no remuneration, their families have been starving at 
 home. For the sake of example, I stated that only 
 two days ago, twelve men were demanded to go 
 against the Caffres ; and yesterday, fifteen men, with 
 their pack oxen, were ordered to repair to the dif- 
 ferent military posts as guides, &c. Now had these 
 men been building houses of clay, which are thought 
 the best that can be reared in this part of Africa, 
 they would either be mouldered or washed down before 
 they could return to finish them. The people know 
 this, and are thereby discouraged from rearing more 
 permanent buildings. I mentioned that I was not 
 stating these things as complaints against government, 
 for perhaps the state of affairs renders them indis- 
 pensably necessary, but mentioned them as causes of 
 the present appearance of the settlement. 
 
 As government had offered to the missionary so- 
 ciety one or two places in Zuurveld, the Colonel 
 pointed out in a map where I should be likely to find 
 situations that would be suitable, 
 
 o 2
 
 100 BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 23d. Waited upon Major Cuyler, the Landdrost, 
 who had been from home the preceding day, with 
 whom I was anxious to have a conversation on the 
 causes of the long disputes that had subsisted between 
 him and Dr. Vanderkemp and Mr. Read, which he 
 dechned, upon the ground that they were all past, and 
 that it was unnecessary to recur to them again. He 
 then spoke of dividing the lands of Bethelsdorp into 
 lots, to be given to the missionaries and settlers. I 
 stated that I perceived difficulties in that business, and 
 would be glad of his advice. Supposing lots of land 
 to be given in perpetual possession to the settlers, and 
 should some of these become a nuisance to the in- 
 stitution, the missionaries would not have it in their 
 power to remove them from the settlement, yet their 
 continuance might be very injurious to its welfare. 
 I saw a difficulty on the other hand, for if the ground 
 was not fully their own, there would not be the same 
 inducement to improve it. I then requested of the 
 Landdrost, if he could devise a middle path, that he 
 would give me his counsel. He said it might be 
 made a condition in the gi'ant of the lots, that should 
 their conduct become injurious to the institution, they 
 should be deprived of their land, and that they should 
 receive an allowance for what improvements they may 
 have made while it was in their possession. This 
 appeared to me a wise suggestion. 
 
 Leaving the Landdrost, I again waited on Colonel 
 Vickers, who kindly favoured me with letters of in- 
 troduction to gentlemen in different parts where I
 
 MARCH.] BETHELSDORP. lOl 
 
 expected to travel. Mr. Menzies, a young officer, 
 also voluntarily favoured me with an introductory letter 
 to a friend. 
 
 Walking to tlie barracks, I found the storekeeper 
 was a native of Sutherland in Scotland, who had been 
 fourteen years in the army, and during that time, 
 much to his credit, had learned both to read and write. 
 He had, however, no books, which want I promised to 
 supply from Bethelsdorp, whither we returned in the 
 afternoon. 
 
 24th. Mr. Read has a meeting with twenty or 
 thirty children, every evening a short time before the 
 meeting for worship, when he asks them a few ques- 
 tions. This meeting arose from his examining his 
 own children ; other children came, then more, till it 
 arrived at its present state — it is wholly voluntary on 
 the part of the young people. When we came to the 
 door of the small house where these children were 
 waiting for Mr, Read, they were singing a hymn to- 
 gether — we listened behind the door with much 
 pleasure till they had finished. I understood all the 
 questions that were asked, and the answers given to 
 them, though in Dutch, and was much pleased. Kaje, 
 a young female Hottentot, who is one of this little 
 meeting, is an orphan, eleven years of age, who lived 
 at George, about a fortnight's journey distant from 
 Bethelsdorp ; but after Mr. Read had preached there 
 a while, she cried so much to accompany him home,
 
 102 BETHELSDORP. [i813. 
 
 that he was obliged to take her, with the consent of 
 her friends, and she now Hves in his house as one of 
 the family. Thermometer at noon, eighty. 
 
 26th. In the afternoon, Cobus, who is blind, and 
 his wife, came from four hours distance with their 
 child to be baptised on the morrow. They are both 
 members of the church at Bcthelsdorp. The wife 
 knew the Lord first, and soon after Cobus was 
 deprived of his sight, God opened the eyes of his 
 understanding, and he says he never was so happy 
 as since he believed in Jesus. Indeed, from the 
 pleasant smile on his countenance when he spake of 
 the Saviour, peace was evidently within. He remarked 
 that Jesus had hitherto kept him from falling, and he 
 trusted he would keep him to the end, and bring him 
 to his heavenly kingdom and glory. His wife said, 
 that she had obtained this child from the Lord, and 
 wished to give her to him again — that she had no 
 wish that her child should be great or rich, but she 
 wished she might have grace, and be a child of 
 God. 
 
 About ten o'clock at night, while sitting at Mr. 
 Read's, we heard for a considerable time a female 
 weeping bitterly at a little distance behind, on which 
 Mr. R. went to inquire into the cause. On returning, 
 he said it was a few people conversing together, one 
 of whom was much atfected with something that had 
 been said.
 
 MARCH.] BETHELSDORP. 103 
 
 In their state of society they have no idea of sup- 
 pressing their feelings until a time when it may be 
 seasonable to give them vent, but they instantly act as 
 they feel. Among uncivilized nations this will gene- 
 rally be found to be the case. In Bethelsdorp, though 
 most of their minds may be said to be civilized, yet 
 their manners are not. The christians there love 
 God and all who bear his image; they have relin- 
 quished sinful conduct, and are looking for the coming 
 of the Son of man ; yet they can sleep on the bare 
 ground as comfortably as the European on his bed of 
 down — nor do they perceive the necessity for the same^ 
 delicacy in dressing, as he does, because they have 
 been accustomed to another mode from their infancy; 
 but many of them are in a state of progression as to 
 these things. 
 
 27th. Mr. Corner preached to us in the morning, 
 after which the whole congregation walked down to the 
 river, when two children were baptized by brother 
 Wimmer. He stood in the middle of the little river, 
 holding the child, and pouring water upon its head, 
 he pronounced the usual words, after which the sur- 
 rounding assembly sung a hymn. The service ap- 
 peared to be impressive. The many young Hottentots 
 around, as well as the elder, behaved with great 
 propriety. 
 
 On returning home, a person whom Dr. Vander- 
 kemp redeemed from slavery only five years ago, 
 followed me to my room. Among other things which
 
 104 BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 she mentioned, she said she had three sons dead, 
 Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob. On saying so, she 
 turned her face to the wall and wept bitterly, and 
 could not for half an hour be pacified. The scene 
 was extremely affecting. I wished all the advocates 
 for slavery in the whole world had been present, 
 especially those who assert that African slaves have no 
 affection for their offspring. Many such Africans, I 
 am persuaded, were they to hear that some of our 
 fashionables in London, though living under the same 
 roof with their children, scarcely see them once a day, 
 would cry out, — What savages ! 
 
 Mr. R. preached to the soldiers at Fort Frederic, 
 Algoa Bay. On returning, he mentioned that the 
 farmer who is next neighbour to Bethelsdorp told 
 him, that last week when going home, a lion met him 
 in the road — they stood some time looking at each 
 other, when the animal chose to walk quietly away. 
 He had, however, devoured an ass belonging to the 
 farmer. Perhaps the death of the ass prevented that 
 of the farmer; having already had a good meal, he 
 had less occasion to devour him, but had they met a 
 little sooner, when the lion was more hungry, he might 
 have faied very differently. 
 
 A Hottentot calling after worship, who came firom 
 a distance, and who was a member of the church, 
 led Mr. Read to relate the follo\ving account of his 
 master s family.
 
 MARCH.] BETHELSDORP. 105 
 
 Some time ago, B^ , a member of the church 
 
 of Bethelsdorp, was travelHog to a distance, and halting 
 at a farmer's near the mouth of the Camtoos river, he 
 collected the former's slaves together, and informed 
 them that the Son of God had come into the world 
 to save sinners. What he said caused a great stir 
 among them about the salvation of their souls. A 
 poor slave from Mosambique, opposite the Island of 
 Madagasccu-, was particularly affected. The provi- 
 dence of God afterwards brought them to work at the 
 Drosdy of Uitenhagen, about nine miles from Bethels- 
 dorp, which afforded them an opportunity of attending 
 the preaching of the gospel there. The poor Mo- 
 sambique slave made rapid progress, though he was 
 but little acquainted with the Dutch language. When 
 they returned home to their masters at Camtoos river, 
 he became their minister, meeting with, and exhorting 
 them daily. When the boor became acquainted with 
 what was going on, he was very angry; however, they 
 continued to meet in a little place which they had 
 fitted up for the purpose. Upon one occasion, some 
 of the family went within hearing of them, unperceived, 
 and there listened to what was going forward. The 
 boor's wife, while listening to her poor slave preaching 
 Jesus of Nazareth and the Resurrection, felt the force 
 -of truth in her heart She invited the company to 
 meet in her house, when she read the scriptures to 
 tiiem, and the slave pi-ayed and exhorted, aud 
 this practise is still continued. The boor saw Mr. 
 Read lately, when he declared that his slave must
 
 lOe BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 certainly speak from the Spirit of God, for, said he, 
 he knows far more than we christians who have had 
 the bible all our days, and he surely could not get all 
 his knowledge in the short time he staid at Bethels- 
 dorp ; and he cannot read. 
 
 Thus the gospel spread at first. When sinners 
 were converted to God in the city of Thessalonica, from 
 thence the gospel sounded through all the region round 
 about. So I trust it is at Bethelsdorp, and I trust it 
 is the pure, unmixed gospel of Christ. 
 
 30th. Went to Fort Frederic on Algoa Bay, about 
 nine miles from Bethelsdorp, where Dr. Vanderkemp 
 and Mr. Read resided almost a year, by permission of 
 General Dundas, prior to their fixing at Bethelsdorp. 
 There we found a small fort and a few houses, but there 
 is no harbour, which renders it very difficult to land 
 goods from the ships, which are sent now and then with 
 provisions, from the Cape, for there is constantly a 
 dangerous surf. We spent a great part of the day with 
 Major Andrews, a gentleman of reading and observa- 
 tion. 
 
 April 1. I received this morning a parcel, per post, 
 from his excellency the governor, containig six copies 
 of a sermon by the Rev. Mr. Jones, colonial chaplain, 
 published by desire of Sir John Craddock, with the 
 excellent design of ameliorating the circumstances of 
 the poor slaves and Hottentots. This benevolent object 
 cannot be accomplished in a day, notwithstanding the
 
 APRIL.] BETH ELS DORP. 107 
 
 great power invested in the governor, and his laudable 
 anxiety to exert it for the public good. It must be a 
 work of time. Many of the boors will not allow their 
 female Hottentots to be called women, but maids, in 
 order to make a distinction between them and their 
 >vives and daughters ; maids being considered by them 
 as an inferior title. Now such as have from childhood 
 been trained up with these low ideas of the Hottentot 
 people, cannot by any law be made soon to respect 
 them. Their minds must be tutored : they must learn 
 that " of 07ie blood, God made all the nations that 
 dwell on the face of the earth," and that " all mankind 
 must appear before the judgment-seat of Christ," 
 equally to answer to him for the deeds done in this 
 life, whether good or evil. 
 
 The goats are constantly spoiling the gardens at 
 Bethelsdorp ; no fence they can devise will keep them 
 out, they are so mischievous. I inquired why, in this 
 country, goats are uniformly mixed with sheep. It is 
 because of their boldness, and desire to get forward : 
 thus they lead on the sheep in travelling, and encourage 
 them by their example, to cross rivers, &c. Thermo- 
 meter at noon 78. Much lightning. 
 
 2d. I walked about the village with three of the bre- 
 thren. In the first house we entered there were four boys 
 driving about a mill, of a peculiar construction, for 
 grinding wheat : a young woman was feeding the mill 
 by gradually pouring wheat into a hole in the centre of 
 
 p 2
 
 108 BfcTHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 the upper grinding stone; and a little girl attended the 
 sack which caught the meal as it fell. At one end of 
 the house they were making soap of sheep's fat, 
 and the ashes of a tree that grows in the neighbour- 
 hood, which they say is preferable to pot-ash. At the 
 other end of the apartment, two female taylors were 
 sewing men's apparel. In the next house we entered, 
 several men were employed, in cutting down the skin of 
 the buffalo to be furniture for Avaggons and harness for 
 oxen. In a third house I examined many large mats 
 which they had just finished ; these are used by the 
 purchasers instead of carpels, and for beds. We then 
 went forward to the receptacle of the dead, which is 
 hedged round with aloes : the graves are distinguished 
 by stones raised upon them. Thermometer 70. 
 Cloudy. Lightning at night. 
 
 3rd. In the morning we went in a waggon to 
 view a salt lake in the vicinity of Bethelsdorp, which 
 is several miles in circumference. A considerable 
 part of the bed was dry, and white as snow, being 
 covered with salt, but so thinly scattered as not to be 
 gathered without a mixture of sand. It has exactly 
 the appearance of an extensive field of snow, and 
 looked grand from the meridian sun shining almost 
 directly down upon it: the grass also, numerous 
 bushes, and elegant plants with which it was sur- 
 rounded, added greatly to the beauty of the scenery. 
 On the margin of the lake we picked up many pieces 
 of trees, completely petrified, or encrusted with stone.
 
 APRIL.] BETHELSDORP. 109 
 
 We likewise examined a curious plant, full of a sub- 
 stance resembling milk. When likely to lose the 
 sight of an eye, Dr. Vanderkemp, wth bis botanical 
 skill, was investigating this plant — breaking one of its 
 parts, a drop of the milk went into bis diseased eye, 
 which caused excruciating pain, and made him fear 
 the entire loss of the sight ; but in a short time, the 
 pain subsided, and he found the sight of that eye 
 perfectly restored. The plant is called Euphorbium. 
 We found also a small spring, about fifty yards from 
 the lake, whose water tasted as salt as the sea. On 
 returning home, we passed over a large piece of 
 ground, which had been formerly cleared and culti- 
 vated by the settlers, which, on trial, produced nothing, 
 arising chiefly from a deficiency of water. 
 
 Thermometer seventy ; cloudy — much vivid light- 
 ning, once or twice every minute. To night it had 
 generally the appearance of a moon greatly extended 
 in length. I was highly gratified while beholding this 
 glorious display of the Creator's power. 
 
 4th. Mr. Read preached in the morning, after 
 which he married five couple, who were neatly 
 dressed, and behaved with much propriety. They 
 stood in a semicircle before the pulpit. When the 
 congregation was dismissed, each bridegroom led his 
 bride home by the hand. 
 
 In the afternoon, two Hottentot members of the 
 church, viz. Busak and Cupido gave exhortations.
 
 110 BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 5th. The boors in this part of the colony are never 
 satisfied unless they have twenty or thirty Hottentots 
 running about them. When they happen to have 
 fewer, they are full of complaints against Bethelsdorp. 
 They have not employment for more than four or five, 
 except at the ploughing and reaping seasons. Hot- 
 tentots being so easily obtained, is a great injury to 
 the boor, and to them. Many of the boors have four 
 or five stout sons, who, in consequence of the croud of 
 Hottentots about the house, have no occasion to put 
 their hands to any work, wherefore they sit with their 
 legs across, the greater part of the day, or else indulge 
 in sleep. They sometimes bestir themselves to shoot 
 for an hour. In this way their days and years pass 
 on in miserable idleness. Perhaps the only thing 
 which a Hottentot will have to do during a whole day, 
 is to bring his master's whip from the next room; 
 another will have to bring his mistress's fire box and 
 place it under her feet ; a third, to bring two or three 
 times wood from the fire to light her master's pipe. 
 In this way the Hottentots have their habits of idleness 
 confirmed and increased : the boor's family feel life a 
 burden, because they have nothing to do, or to talk 
 of, and feeling themselves miserable, they endeavour 
 to derive pleasure from making others miserable also. 
 This account of a boor's life has been related by 
 various persons to me, and appears from what I saw 
 to be a true picture of many, though not all. 
 
 Were boors restricted to a certain number of Hot- 
 tentot servants, according to the work they had for them,
 
 APRIL.] BETHELSDORP. Ill 
 
 it would ultimately be a blessing to them, and to the 
 poor Hottentots. At the same time, were such a 
 regulation introduced, I believe it would occasion 
 much uneasiness and complaint, and their places would 
 appear deserted for want of Hottentots to run about 
 them. 
 
 Were the families of the boors thus compelled by 
 necessity to put their hands to the plough, they would 
 gradually acquire habits of industry, and would not 
 be satisfied with having a few acres of land cultivated 
 on a farm of twenty miles circumference. Soon there 
 would be no occasion to send for corn to the Cape to 
 feed the few soldiers who are quartered here, which 
 is a disgrace to this part of Africa. However, the 
 want of harbours in south Africa will always form a 
 great obstacle to the exportation of corn and other 
 articles which might be produced in it, and conse- 
 quently will impede the progress of cultivation. 
 
 Here I was interrupted by the arrival of a Hotten- 
 tot chief, whose name is Benedictus Platje Royters, 
 who said he came from a day's journey off, on 
 hearing that I had arrived from a far country, and in 
 order to thank me for coming. He wore a short blue 
 jacket, and white trowsers, but neither shoes nor 
 stockings. He had a white lace epaulette on the 
 right shoulder, and held in his hand a formidable 
 staff, about six feet long, and large brass head, on 
 which were his Majesty's arms, presented to him by 
 government. He said, that all this country, and also
 
 lif r BETHELSDOTIP/ [18!3< 
 
 the Zureveld belonged to his grandfather, but they 
 had been deprived of it by the boors and Caffres. 
 He complained bitterly against the boors for the 
 cruelties tliey had perpetrated against his helpless 
 countrymen. He appeared somewhat dever. His 
 wife was ^ith him, with an infant at her breast, a fine 
 child, about four years old, with two rows of beads 
 around its neck, but without any other clothing. 
 
 There are several great Hottentot captains buried 
 in the interior. When a Hottentot passes their graves, 
 he throws a stone or branch upon it ; should lie 
 neglect to do this, he thinfo he shall be drowned in the 
 first river he attempts to cross. Cupido, our Hotten- 
 tot driver, having surmountoi this superstition, when 
 passing any of these grav^, used quietly to get from 
 the waggon, and scatt?er the branches and stones which 
 happened to be on them, and resumed his seat without 
 a word. 
 
 In the evening, the first monday in the month, we 
 united with the christians in England, and in many 
 other parts of the world, in prayer for the extension 
 of the kingdom of Jesus Christ among the heatlien. I 
 gave a discourse, through Mr. Read as interpreter, 
 from Math. xxiv. 14. *' And this gospel of the King- 
 dom shall be preached in all the world," &c. At the 
 conclusion, twelve rix dollars were collected* from the 
 Hottojtots to aid missions to the heathen. Well done 
 Hottentots ! Perhaps this sum was more in proportion 
 
 * About thirty-six shillings sterling.
 
 APRIL.] BETHELSDORP. 113 
 
 to circumstances, than was collected that night upon 
 the same occasion in London. The whole of it was in 
 very small sums. 
 
 All the inhabitants of Bethelsdorp were called out 
 this morning to be numbered. They had indeed a 
 motley appearance, being mostly clothed in sheep skins. 
 The young people enjoyed it much, though several 
 of those who were very young, seemed greatly terri- 
 fied at the number, noise, and bustle with which they 
 were surrounded — they screamed incessantly till their 
 mothers removed them from the scene. — Thermometer 
 n. seventy-five. 
 
 6th. A pleasing circumstance occurred. Hav- 
 ing heard a few days ago that my valuable corres- 
 pondent, the late Rev. Mr. Newton, of London, had 
 written an excellent letter to Dr. Vanderkemp, soon 
 after his arrival in Africa, I was anxious to see it. 
 Mrs. Vanderkemp, (his widow,) kindly promised to 
 search for it. During a fruitless search for this letter, 
 she found what no one knew existed, viz. a life of the 
 Doctor, written by himself. I had inquired both at 
 Cape-town and at Bethelsdorp on my arrival, whether 
 the Doctor had left any thing of this kind behind him, 
 but they assured me he had not, which they accounted 
 for by relating some things he had said while he was 
 with them. 
 
 7th. The Landdrost came to the settlement tliis 
 morning to mark the limits of their ground, but after 
 
 Q
 
 114 BETHELSDORP. [isiS. 
 
 much conversation it was judged preferable to measure 
 the ground completely and make a chart of it, which 
 was to be done in a few days. 
 
 A CafFre, the son of one of the chiefs in Caffraria, 
 and who has been a considerable time at the Institu- 
 tion, and taught carpenter's work, made me a con- 
 venient box for containing any varieties I might happen 
 to obtain higher up Africa. 
 
 8th. Three very aged female Hottentots came to 
 Mr. Read's house, where I lodged, dressed in very 
 gaudy caps, which they had been accustomed to wear 
 on particular occasions on former days, but this was 
 the last time they were to wear them ; for after taking 
 them off, they presented them to me to take as 
 curiosities to England, for which I promised handker- 
 chiefs for their heads. Their names were Meetjee, 
 Sabina, and Dortje. They likewise gave me a piece 
 of something like rozin, which is found on the sea 
 shore. Before their husbands went to hunt, they used 
 to set this on fire, and while the fire ascended, they 
 prayed to the Great Being for their success. Sabina 
 has had ten children, but not one, she said, died 
 a natural death, being killed by lions, tygers, or 
 serpents !
 
 APRIL.] BETHELSDORP. 115 
 
 The following is a correct statement of the popu- 
 lation of Bethelsdorp : 
 
 A. Number of Hottentots received at Be-1 r>i-A^ 
 
 thelsdorp since the commencement 
 
 ■} 
 
 B. Number belonging to the Institution, April 
 1st. 1813. 
 
 Men 223 
 
 Women 3381 
 
 l 
 
 1052 
 Girls 248 
 
 Boys 243( 
 
 C. Present at the Institution. 
 
 Men 94^ 
 
 Women 206V 608 
 
 Children 3083 
 
 Of the ninety- four men, forty are inca- 
 pable of public service. Of the fifty-four 
 able men, ten are herds, constantly attending 
 the cattle; ten are arbiters, always employed 
 for the public benefit of the settlement. 
 
 D. Born at the settlement 239 
 
 These only are found recorded in the books; 
 but many of the parents, especially those who 
 go into the service of the boors, neglect to 
 report the birth of their children. 
 
 • E, Of those mentioned (letter A.) have died 142 
 
 Of these about thirty died of the measles, 
 (chiefly children,) in the year 1807. 
 Q. 2
 
 116- BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 G. Murdered by the Caffrqs, &c. 16 
 
 Of these; eight were in the service of the 
 boors at the time of their murder. 
 
 H. In military service, about 70 
 
 In the above are not included the wives 
 and children who are with them, which would 
 probably make an equal number. 
 
 I. Of those who are absent belonging to^ 
 
 letter B. in service of government without > 28 
 
 pay* " 3 
 
 J. Those at work in ditto with pay 20 
 
 Dismissed the Institution for disorderly 
 conduct • 15 
 
 Those not accounted for in the above 
 statement, (except a few who may be dead) 
 are in the service of the boors and other 
 inhabitants. 
 
 877 
 1133 
 
 Adults baptized 
 
 Children ditto ^^^ ^^^ 
 
 Marriages 195 
 
 Stand excommunicated from the Church 4 
 
 There is no regular attendance at the school of a 
 certain number of children, but as the new method of 
 teaching is to be introduced so soon as the plan can 
 be obtained, it is very probable that the regular at- 
 tendance will be from two to three hundred young 
 
 * I believe when the governor afterwards visited the interior of 
 the colony, he ordered that none should serve government without 
 some compensation.
 
 APRIL.] BETHELSDORP. 117 
 
 people, though now not above fifty regularly attend, 
 and many others occasionally. 
 
 During my residence at Cape-town after my arrival, 
 and when on my journey to Bethelsdorp, I heard 
 many unfavourable reports cencerning that missionary 
 settlement, especially concerning the wretchedness of 
 their habitations, the idleness of the people, the want 
 of civilization, the diminution of the property of those 
 who joined it, and its being a seat of debauchery. On 
 my aiTival there, I must confess that, neither the 
 appearance of the place, nor of the people came up 
 to the expectations I had formed when in Europe. In 
 order that the Society and the public may have docu- 
 ments on which to form their sentiments, how far the 
 missionaries are to be justified or condemned, I shall 
 subjoin the substance of my investigation of these 
 matters. 
 
 Substance of conversations with the mission- 
 aries at Bethelsdorpy in reference to the 
 civil state of that settlement, at meetings 
 held in Mr. Read's house, March Qlst. d^-c. 
 1813. Present, Messrs. Read, Ulbricht, 
 fVimmer, Smith, Corner^ and Bartlet. 
 
 ON THE CULTIVATION OF LAND. 
 
 They stated that they had tried to cultivate dif- 
 ferent parts of the lands of Bethelsdorp in vain, before 
 they came to the present place, which they have now 
 cultivated with success.
 
 118 BETHELS DORP. £1815. 
 
 Question — Could you not clear part of the hill on 
 the east-side of Zwartkopts river ? 
 
 Answer — The bushes are always green, and will 
 not burn — we have tried it frequently, but without 
 success. 
 
 Q. Could you not try to improve some other parts 
 of the lands, according to the methods employed in 
 Europe, which you might learn from books on agri- 
 culture ? 
 
 A. Mr. Wimmer, who is very industrious in culti- 
 vating the ground allotted to him, insisted that the 
 means employed in Europe, would be of no use in 
 Africa. I stated in reply, that agriculture was an 
 extensive science — that different kinds of manure 
 suited different grounds, which has been discovered by 
 a variety of experiments ; and observed, that it might 
 do good were the Society to send out some publi- 
 cations on that subject. 
 
 I next stated the various complaints made against 
 the miserable appearance of the village. 
 
 A. The people have had many discouragements 
 from building better houses — uncertainty of being 
 permitted to remain at Bethelsdorp — many calls upon 
 the people to public service — the present houses looked 
 much better when they were first built.
 
 APiiiL.} BETHELSDORP. 119 
 
 I stated that it would have a comfortable appear- 
 ance, had every house a garden behind it like those of 
 the Moravians at Bavian's Kloof. 
 
 A. The people are discouraged from doing so by 
 the barrenness of the ground where the village stands 
 — the want of water — the depredations of goats, &c. 
 
 Q. Could not the small river which runs across 
 Bethelsdorp be conducted so as to water these gardens? 
 
 A. The river is often dry, and likewise it cannot be 
 conveyed to ground so high as that on which the 
 village stands. 
 
 Q. Could the houses be built farther down that 
 river, where the sides are lower ? 
 
 A. The lower down the river, the less water there 
 is, and it becomes brackish, (or impregnated with 
 salt-petre.) 
 
 Q. Could not the village be built on Zwartkopts 
 river ? 
 
 A. No ; the water is brackish, and unfit for use. 
 
 Q. Could not more trees be planted about the 
 the village ? 
 
 A. The ground is so rocky and dry, they will not 
 grow.
 
 120 BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 Q. Could not the boys be persuaded to dress them- 
 selves ; it is shameful to see them running about in 
 their present condition ? 
 
 A. Though they were to receive a present of 
 clothes to day, they would be fond of them for a few 
 days, and be proud of them, but would soon lose or 
 throw them away — it is not so easy as many persons 
 suppose to produce a change of habits among such 
 people. 
 
 Q. Could not the females be prevailed upon to 
 dress better? 
 
 A. They have often been advised to do so, and 
 many dress better than they did. 
 
 In consequence of it being currently reported in the 
 colony, that the settlers at Bethelsdorp had brought 
 with them about six thousand cattle, which had been 
 reduced to two thousand, from their idleness, I made 
 the following investigation of this matter in the pre- 
 sence of Mr. Read and six Hottentots belonging to 
 the settlement. 
 
 In Mr. Read's book, it is stated, that in the year 
 1803, the number of cattle at the settlement was 218. 
 
 In 1808, the next year of which there was any 
 record, there were 1181, of which number about 300 
 w«re calves of that year.
 
 APRIL.] BETIIELSDORP. - 121 
 
 In 1812, the number was increased to 1904. 
 
 In 1813, they were increased to 2206. 400 of 
 these were calved that year. 
 
 There is a disease to which calves are subject, which 
 carries off, upon an average, about a hundred per 
 annum. 
 
 From every enquiry that Mr. Read has made, he 
 cannot find that more than fifty head of cattle have 
 been slaughtered in any one year. Six of the best 
 informed Hottentots being present at this investigation, 
 could only recollect ten that had been slaughtered 
 during the last twelve months. 
 
 Besides the number of cattle slaughtered, and calves 
 dying, many have been stolen by the Caffres, and 
 many destroyed by wolves and other wild beasts. 
 
 William Valentine, present, said, *that when he 
 joined the settlement he had nine oxen, and that now 
 he has seventeen and' a waggon, besides five oxen he 
 gave for a horse that died, and five he has lent out ; 
 he has one horse. 
 
 Andrew Pretorius, (a bushman,) stated, that when 
 he came to Bethelsdorp he had four oxen, and has 
 now ten and a waggon, and one horse, besides four 
 stolen by the Caffres. He stated, that from childhood 
 
 B
 
 122 " BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 until he joined the Institution in 1 806, his thirty-third 
 year, he had served a boor, for whicli long service he 
 received one heifer and six ewes. Being asked how he 
 had four oxen when he came to the settlement, since he 
 had received only one heifer from the boor; these 
 oxen, he said, he procured by making iron rings at 
 leisure hours in the evenings. In one year at the 
 Institution he earned two hundred dollars, with which 
 he purchased a waggon from his former master. He 
 has large fields and a plough ; and provides for a wife 
 and eight children of his own, and two orphans. 
 
 John Valentine, uncle to the above, said he had 
 no oxen when he came to the settlement — he has now 
 six and a waggon, for which he gave eight oxen. He 
 has two horses, for which he gave three oxen. 
 
 Boosak stated, that he had two oxen when he came 
 to Bethelsdorp — has now nine oxen and a waggon. 
 Has to provide for a wife and seven children. 
 
 Cupid had four oxen and a cart when he came to 
 Bethelsdorp — has now ten oxen and a waggon. 
 
 Cruse Windfogil had two oxen on joining the Insti- 
 tution — has now ten oxen and a waggon. 
 
 William Plagy who came sfx years ago, and had 
 nothing — has now six oxen, and provides for a wife, 
 four children and his wife's father and mother, who 
 are old and infirm.
 
 APRIL.] BETHELSDORP. 123 
 
 Piet Manual brought with him a waggon and seven 
 oxen, about four years ago, has now eight oxen, and has 
 sold three, and two were stolen from him by the CafFres. 
 
 I inquired if they knew of any belonging to the 
 settlement who brought more oxen than they possessed 
 at the present — after much conversation among the 
 six Hottentots, they said they recollected none ; but 
 one of them (William Valentine,) stated, that his 
 aged father who came to Bethelsdorp two years ago 
 with nine oxen, has now sixteen. 
 
 It is proper to remark here, that all the above have 
 cows ; but I only took an account of their oxen, as 
 being more connected with their industry. They appear 
 more desirous to obtain some substantial property 
 that will bring in something for the support of their 
 families, such as waggons and oxen, than they are to 
 obtain dress, good houses, furniture, &c. supposing 
 that these other things must follow the obtaining 
 waggons and oxen. Many are living sparingly, to save 
 money in order to procure waggons and oxen, because 
 little can be done to obtain a living in this part of 
 Africa without these. 
 
 Those who have obtained most property are such 
 as have remained most constantly at the settlement, 
 while those who have been much in the service of 
 the boors have gained little. Some of those who were 
 present have Hottentots in their service, to whom they 
 give twelve dollars (with other advantages) in the year. 
 
 R 2
 
 124 BETHELSDORP. [i8I5. 
 
 Boosak stated, that with his two Hottentot servants, 
 he had, during the last month, earned fifty-two dollars, 
 and had lent his waggon to a merchant of Uitenhagen, 
 to go to Graaf Reynet, for thirty dollars. Another 
 Hottentot, with his two servants, by cutting and saw- 
 ing wood, earned in two weeks, some time ago, one- 
 hundred dollars — but in consequence of the great 
 number constantly called away during the last twelve 
 months to public service, few have been able to earn 
 much, but they hope this hindrance will only continue 
 for a short time. 
 
 INQUIRY RESPECTING SHEEP AND GOATS. 
 
 I inquired if at any former period they had more 
 of these animals than there are at the settlement at 
 present. 
 
 They unanimously declared, that there are as 
 many at Bethelsdorp now as at any former period. 
 Boosak said, that when he came to the settlement, he 
 brought with him a hundred sheep and goats, but that 
 having afterwards gone with them to the place of 
 Mrs. Varoy, most of them died of a disease pre- 
 valent at that time; he then sold the remainder, 
 lest they should die also. There are at present be- 
 longing to the people at Bethelsdorp, about fourteen 
 hundred sheep and goats : and a few months ago, an 
 order was given to settlers that no ewe fit for breeding 
 should be killed.
 
 APRIL.] BETHELSDORP. 125 
 
 DISEASE. 
 
 Spent part of April 2d and 6th, in the examination 
 of ten men and two of their wives concerning the truth 
 of the report I had heard that Bethelsdorp was a seat 
 of a loathsome disease. 
 
 I found that it was so, in the same way that the 
 Lock Hospital, Penitentiary, Magdalen, or other 
 hospitals in London may be so considered — that four 
 men and seventeen women had been afflicted with it — 
 that every one of these brought it with them to the 
 settlement ; and I have the names of all the families 
 from whence they came, (except one Hottentot, who 
 brought it with him from the trunk (or prison) in 
 Cape-town, where he had been confined as a witness 
 called up to a trial,) which for prudential reasons I 
 forbear publishing. 
 
 The missionaries are not sent to such countries to 
 call the righteous, but sinners to repentance, and were 
 they only to receive Hottentots of good character to 
 their settlements, they would appear ridiculous to the 
 whole world. Physicians are not intended for the 
 healthy, but for the sick; in like manner the great 
 concern of a good missionary should be the instruction 
 of the ignorant, and the reclaiming of the vicious. If 
 such as circulate reports like the above, in order to 
 prejudice the minds of governors against missionary 
 institutions, could prove that missionaries receive and 
 retain bad characters in their churches or chris-
 
 126 BETHELSDOIIP. [1813. 
 
 tian societies, their complaints would be just, and 
 deserving immediate attention; but I do not believe 
 there is a missionary in South Africa capable of 
 so glaring a breach of the commandments of Jesus 
 Christ. 
 
 I have briefly touched upon this delicate and dis- 
 agreeable point, chiefly for the sake of the white 
 inhabitants of the colony of the Cape of Good Hope, 
 with whom the poor Hottentots are intermixed, that 
 they may be informed of the true state of the case. 
 
 CHARGE OF IDLENESS AT BETHELSDORP. 
 
 That many of the inhabitants are inclined to be 
 idle I have no doubt ; many such are to be found in 
 the most industrious towns in England, though un- 
 doubtedly there is a far greater proportion among 
 Hottentots ; but is this wonderful, when we attend 
 to their early habits. Their wants being few, work is 
 neglected ; they have not the same inducements to 
 active exertion as the inhabitants of such a country as 
 England. If a Hottentot obtain barely enough to 
 support nature, he is satisfied, and can sleep contented 
 in his sheepskin under any bush. If brought up in 
 the service of a boor, he has so many fellow servants, 
 and the boor so little work to perform, that very little 
 labour falls to the lot of an individual. A farmer's 
 servant in England has more actual labour to accom- 
 plish than is assigned to six servants of an African 
 boor. Thus being accustomed to a life of indolence in
 
 APUiL.] BETHELSDORP. 127 
 
 youth, it is a very difficult matter indeed to acquire a 
 habit of industry in riper age. Those who have been 
 brought up in Hottentot kraals have been accustomed 
 still more to idleness and sloth than even those who 
 have been reared in the service of the boors. Mr. 
 Kicherer, minister of Graaf Reynet, once remarked 
 to me, that a bushman would willingly go a journey 
 of two days for a piece of tobacco ; but he would not 
 dig five spadefuls of earth for the same reward ; and 
 from what I have since seen of that people, I believe 
 Mr. Kicherer's testimony to be correct. 
 
 Labour and civilization are not to be forced instan- 
 taneously on any people, but must be effected by 
 gradual progression. The Spaniards in South America 
 had so intense a thirst for the golden ore, after its 
 discovery and conquest, that they had not patience to 
 lead forward the feeble natives of that region by 
 degrees to labour in their mines, but compelled them 
 to work like men that had been long inured to hard 
 labour ; the result was, the almost entire depopulation 
 of the country. 
 
 That many of the Hottentots of Bethelsdorp are 
 industrious, will appear by the statement of various 
 facts. I found among them eighteen different em- 
 ployments, viz. smiths, carpenters, waggon-makers, 
 basket-makers, blanket-makers, (viz. of sheep skins 
 sewed together very neatly, bought by officers in the 
 army, &c.) tobacco-pipe-makers, sawyers, turners, 
 hewers of wood, carriers, soap-boilers, mat-manufac-
 
 128 BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 lurers, stocking-makers, taylors, brick-makers, thatchers, 
 coopers, and lime-burners, likewise an auctioneer and 
 a miller. That these eighteen trades exist at Bethels- 
 doi-p, I have no doubt ; but should a man think of a 
 trade at Bethelsdorp as he thinks of a trade in Eng- 
 land, he would say there are only carpenters, smiths, 
 farmers and thatchers ; but that would be as ridiculous, 
 as if a person going to a friend's house to see his first 
 born son, on the day of his birth, should expect to find 
 a man six feet high, and go away disappointed, tell- 
 ing all the world that he saw no son, but only a little 
 creature a span long. People forget that arts among 
 Hottentots are only in their infancy. Great as trades 
 are now in England, lime was when they were as in- 
 considerable as now at Bethelsdorp. 
 
 I found also a fund maintained by the members of 
 the Institution for the support of the poor and sick, 
 which at present amounts to two hundred and fifty 
 rix dollars. Each rix dollar is four shillings currency. 
 The people have also offered to build an asylum for 
 their reception. 
 
 There is another fund, called the common fund, for 
 defraying expenses incurred for promoting the general 
 prosperity of the Institution, which amounts to one 
 hundred and thirty dollars, and about thirty head of 
 cattle. The original stock of these cattle were pre- 
 sented to the Institution by General Dundas, when 
 he was governor of the Cape; and they have multi- 
 plied to the above number.
 
 APttiu] BETHELSDORP. 129 
 
 They have also collected, during the last twelve 
 months, seventy rix-doUars, to aid the fund of the 
 Missionary Society. They have likewise, with great 
 labour, cleared and cultivated many fields. Though 
 I cannot say all I should wish to be able to say, in 
 favour of Bethelsdorp in a civil point of view, yet the 
 above facts will be pleasing to the minds of the unpre- 
 judiced, and induce them soon to expect to hear of 
 greater things. 
 
 No man who knows any thing of the Moravians 
 will condemn them for want of exertion to improve 
 their people in civilization ; yet in visiting their settle- 
 ments, you will find Hottentots in their original, native, 
 scanty skin dress, the same as at Bethelsdorp, and 
 living in as mean houses ; and you will hear the mis- 
 sionaries speaking with regret concerning the indolence 
 of many of the setders. Truth however obliges me to 
 confess, that had the founder of Bethelsdorp (Dr. 
 Vanderkemp,) been more aware of the importance of 
 civilization, there might at least have been more ex- 
 ternal appearance of it than there now is. He seems 
 to have judged it necessary, rather to imitate the 
 savage in appearance, than to induce the savage to imi- 
 tate him — perhaps, considering his conduct counte- 
 nanced by what Paul says, of his becoming all things 
 to all men, that he might gain some. The doctor 
 would appear in public without hat, stockings or shoes, 
 and probably without a coat. I leave it to commen- 
 tators to determine how far tliat passage did or did
 
 130 BETHELSDORP. [1813. 
 
 not countenance his practice ; but 1 never heard of 
 ax\y other missionary following his example. 
 
 I know that the flying reports against Bethelsdorp 
 in the colony, have been shipped off to London by 
 gentlemen of various casts ; and though some of them 
 can say that they have seen Bethelsdorp, which natu- 
 rally gives currency to their reports, yet I must say 
 that I never heard of one man (though I made inquiry,) 
 who ever remained a sufficient time to know what Be- 
 thelsdorp really was. Had the ground on which the 
 village stands been fertile enough to raise trees and 
 gardens, this would have satisfied most; they would 
 have written in praise of the beauties of Bethelsdorp ; 
 but glory to God, Bethelsdorp has been the birth place 
 of many a child of God, many an heir of eternal life; 
 yet this indubitable fact is seldom put into the oppo- 
 site scale.
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM BETHELSDORP— TRAVELS IN ALBANY 
 —ARRIVAL AT GRAHAM'S TOWN. 
 
 Albany, (formerly called Zure-Feld,) was once 
 the country of the Gonaquaas, a nation now extinct, in 
 consequence partly of intermarriages with the Hotten- 
 tots on the one hand, and the Caffres on the other, 
 but chiefly by the murders committed by the Caffres. 
 The Caffires had long maintained possession of Albany, 
 from which they have lately been driven as intruders, 
 which it appears they were, and this is one principal 
 cause of the present Caffre war. Albany is bounded 
 on the east by the Indian ocean; on the north by 
 Caftraria, from which it is divided by the Great Fish 
 River ; on the west by the Drosdy of Graaf Reynet ; 
 and on the south by the Drosdy of Uitenhagen, from 
 which it is separated by the Sondag river. It is a 
 country which remains to be peopled, as there are few 
 inhabitants, except at military posts, which have been 
 erected to check the incursions of the Caffres, who are 
 a bold, plundering, and enterprizing nation. Not- 
 withstanding the utmost vigilance of the military at 
 
 s 2
 
 132 JOURNEY TO ALBANY. [1813. 
 
 these posts, the Caffres are continually making de- 
 predations upon the colonists, and carrying off their 
 cattle. 
 
 The government having kindly offered one or two 
 places in that district for new missionary stations, I 
 resolved to inspect it with the view of selecting suitable 
 situations. While I remained at Bethelsdorp, I 
 obtained much information respecting it from Co- 
 lonel Vickers, civil and military commandant of 
 the interior districts, to whom I had been kindly 
 recommended by letters from his excellency Sir John 
 Cradock, the governor, and H. Alexander, Esq. colo- 
 nial secretary. 
 
 Having remained about three weeks at Bethelsdorp, 
 I determined to take my departure on a journey to 
 Albany on the ninth of April 1813, accompanied by 
 my worthy friends Messrs. Read and Ulbricht, mis- 
 sionaries ; the former designing to travel with me to all 
 the stations, the latter only to Albany. Most of the 
 inhabitants of Bethelsdorp came out to witness our 
 departure, and bid us farewell. We had two waggons 
 of our own, and four belonging to the people of 
 Bethelsdorp, who were to accompany us as friends for 
 a few days. Our own oxen and a third waggon were 
 to join us at Graaf Reynet, where we expected to 
 arrive in about a fortnight. Upwards of a hundred 
 people followed us from the settlement for some time, 
 but as we advanced on our journey, they gradually 
 left us, and returned home.
 
 APRIL.] JOURNEY TO ALBANY. 133 
 
 At ten, A.M. we crossed Zwartkop's river, and a 
 little afterwards we halted at a salt lake, about a mile 
 and a half in circumference, whicli supplies all the 
 surrounding country with that necessary article, by the 
 collecting and transporting of which, some of the settlers 
 at Bethelsdorp obtain part of their living. It exactly 
 resembled a field of snow, and immediately reminded 
 me of the regions of the north during winter. Though 
 we only halted for a few minutes, our people filled 
 two sacks with salt to serve us on our journey. The 
 water at this time was about eighteen inches deep, 
 and the whole bottom was covered with a crust of salt 
 about an inch and a half thick ; but what we collected 
 was found lying loose at the side, being driven thither 
 by the little waves raised by the wind. 
 
 At noon we crossed the Cougha river, and halted 
 at one P.M. for the sake of water, an excellent foun- 
 tain of which was on the side of a brook of brack- 
 ish water, which had a nauseous taste; yet this 
 fountain has probably remained for centuries past 
 choaked up and almost invisible by rushes and weeds, 
 because it would require ten or twenty minutes labour 
 to remove these obstructions. On viewing it through 
 the rushes, a spade was sent for, and all present in- 
 vited to assist in clearing away what concealed it, 
 while Messrs. Read and Bartlet dug out the mud, 
 and formed it into a proper shape. In a very short 
 time it assumed the appearance of a neat and clean 
 well, inviting to all who viewed it. We named it
 
 .134 JOURNEY TO ALBANY. [1813. 
 
 Bartlet's Fountain, because he was chief workman on 
 the occasion. 
 
 About thirty persons, besides our own party, dined 
 upon the grass. After dinner, a Hottentot belonging 
 to Bethelsdorp approached us, mounted upon an ox. 
 Being asked where he had been, he said very simply, 
 that he had been to a place in Albany in search of a 
 knife he had left behind him when there, and that he 
 had found it. This was a journey of sixty miles for a 
 clasp knife, which in the colony is only worth eighteen 
 pence, irrespective of the hazard of not finding it 
 among the grass. 
 
 At five P.M. we descended Murderer's Height, so 
 called in consequence of some Caflfres having murdered 
 a number of Hottentots there, about twenty years ago. 
 A little after sun-set we came to the banks of the 
 Sondag, (or Sunday) river, which is one of the largest 
 in this part of Africa, and divides the Deputy Drosdy 
 of Albany from the Drosdy of Uitenhagen. We 
 walked down the steep sides of the river to examine 
 its depth, as two waggons had been overturned two 
 days before by the strength of the current, when 
 attempting to cross it, and were with difficulty saved. 
 The stream was broad and rapid. One of our Hot- 
 tentots examined the ford on horseback, pointing out 
 the shallowest place for our waggons to cross. My 
 waggon was allowed the honour of crossing first. If 
 mine had been carried down by the current, the others 
 would not have attempted to cross, till the following
 
 APitiL.] JOURNEY TO ALBANY. 135 
 
 mprning ; but there was another and better reason ; 
 as the oxen in my waggon were the best, their crossing 
 would incite the others to follow. In the course of an 
 hour all our five waggons and the driven oxen safely 
 arrived on the opposite side of the river. Two of the 
 oxen in one of the waggons lay down in the middle 
 of the stream, seemingly from terror, which occasioned 
 some trouble. However, by adding ten oxen to the 
 twelve that were already yoked to the waggon, the 
 passage was effected. We halted for the night about 
 three miles higher up the river. 
 
 10th. We were all on foot at sun-rise, and, after 
 worship and breakfast, were ready to proceed on our 
 journey ; but the oxen having strayed, not one could 
 be found. This was occasioned by the country being 
 covered with tall bushes, much higher than the cattle, 
 consequently they cannot be seen at a distance. How- 
 ever, in about three hours, twelve of our people re- 
 turned driving the cattle before them, which was an 
 agreeable sight. About two o'clock we halted under 
 trees at the hill Addo, where an act of generalship 
 had been performed by a party of Caffres, against a 
 commando of boors, who, with their Hottentot ser- 
 vants came to oppose them. The advance of the 
 Dutch army was along the low country. The Caffres 
 cut down many trees and bushes, with which they 
 blocked up the road, placing a detachment behind., 
 On the boors coming up, they attempted to remove 
 this obstruction. While thus employed, the Caffres
 
 136 JOURNEY TO ALBANY. [181S. 
 
 dispatched part of their company hy another M'ay, 
 who coming behind the boors, surrounded them. 
 They called for quarter, and obtained it, when they 
 came to an agreement, that the boors should return 
 home, and not further molest them ; upon which the 
 Caffres restored to them their arms, and bid them 
 depart ; but the perfidious boors having secretly sent 
 oft' a person to hasten the march of those behind, they 
 came up, when all the boors fell upon the unsuspecting 
 Caffres, and are said to have destroyed them all. 
 
 Departed from Addo hill about five P.M. and at 
 eight o'clock halted near a clump of trees in an open 
 country. The trees were low evergreens, so thick 
 that they were impenetrable, except at about three 
 places, two of which appeared to be made by the wild 
 beasts; the other was a kind of house, cut out pro- 
 bably by the Caffres. This green-house afforded very 
 comfortable shelter during the night from the wind, 
 which blew cold. In the middle of this green-house, 
 a large fire was speedily kindled, which our company 
 surrounded, when Mr. Ulbricht, by the assistance of 
 fire and candle, read a chapter of scripture, and 
 addressed us from it; after which we engaged in 
 prayer and praise, as was our custom during the 
 journey. A painting of the various countenances of 
 the company, and the curious postures in which they 
 sat, as discovered by the fire-light, would have been 
 highly gratifying to friends in England. Worship 
 being over, the company dispersed to five separate
 
 *pAit.3 JOURNfeY IN ALBANV. 137 
 
 fires, and we repaired to our tents to sup. Mats were 
 then spread under the thicket, wiiere most of oUi' 
 people had a good night's rest. 
 
 11th. After suti-rise, Mr. Read led the worship, 
 when we departed with the view of reaching a boor's 
 place, where there was a military station, that they 
 might have an opportunity (being the Lord's day,) to" 
 hear the gospel of Jesus Christ. The country through 
 vrbitjh wcl travelled, though compleatly in a state of 
 nature, vi'as beautiful in tlie extreme, much resembling 
 a nobleman's park in England. The ground was 
 covered with the finest grass, interspersed with single 
 trees and clamps of trees in all directions, v\hich 
 appeared a charming spot for a missionary settlement. 
 
 About eleven A.M. arrived at the military station. 
 The officer with his soldiers, and the boor with his 
 family attended our meeting for worship, and thank- 
 iiilly received the tracts we had for distribution. There 
 being another military station about three hours journey 
 distant, where many of the Bethelsdorp Hottentots, 
 -belonging to the Cape regiment were, we employed 
 otie of our vvaggons and went to visit them. Our road 
 tvas a kind of foot path over hills, and was attended 
 with some difficulty to the waggon. At five P.M. we 
 came in sight of a beautiful valley between the moun- 
 tains, of about four miles extent. The sides of the 
 iriountains were covered with Caffie gardens, among 
 the trees, from whence they had lately been driven by 
 the military. The skeletons of many of their houses
 
 138 JOURNEY IN ALBANY. [i813. 
 
 remained, and some tobacco was still growing; but 
 the whole of their corn fields were destroyed. The 
 hills were covered with trees to the top, and were 
 divided by the course of a river. Formerly the whole 
 was covered with Caffre villages, but now there is not 
 a living soul, but stillness every where reigns. On 
 reaching the bottom of the valley, we turned round 
 the hill which formed the opposite side, on our right, 
 which introduced us into a small circular plain, yield- 
 ing abundant grass of the richest kind. The scenery 
 around was romantic and grand in the highest degree. 
 The road from this plain to the fort lay through a 
 narrow pass betv\een impending mountains, clothed 
 with the trees of former ages. It was nearly dark, 
 and we had reason to suspect that the Caffres lay 
 concealed in the woods. Owing to the windings of 
 the river, we had to cross it several times, and the 
 steep ascents and descents afforded additional trouble. 
 At length we arrived at the desired fort, where I 
 found both the officers who commanded were my 
 countrymen; Messrs. Bogle and Mackinnes, from 
 Glasgow and Galloway, who received us very kindly. 
 Their situation is so retired and remote from the 
 habitations of other men, that they seem to live almost 
 out of the world. The Hottentots who accompanied 
 us were received joyfully by their brethren, the soldiers 
 in the fort, who were about fifty ; indeed the whole 
 garrison-consisted of Hottentots, except the two officers 
 and two of the Serjeants. After a cup of coffee, Mr. 
 Read, with the approbation of the commanding officer, 
 preached to the people of the garrison, our company,
 
 APRIL.] JOURNEY IN ALBANY. 159 
 
 and the Hottentots who had taken refuge under the 
 protection of the fort, in number about a hundred. 
 After much conversation we retired to rest. 
 
 12th. During the night there was much rain. At 
 seven A.M. Mr. Ulbricht preached to the people, who 
 were, as on the former occasion, very attentive. Mr. 
 Bogle had resided here eighteen months, during which 
 time he had received but three visitors, all officers. 
 It is wonderful that men are found willing to make 
 so great a sacrifice, for such an object. Their country 
 can scarcely repay them. The garrison is surrounded 
 by a ditch and palisadoes sufficient to prevent surprise 
 from the Caffires in the night. 
 
 We resolved to depart in search of a place which 
 Colonel Vickers recommended as proper for a mis- 
 sionary station, but had difficulty to ascertain where 
 it was, as hardly any place in that paradise of a 
 country has received a name. No doubt the Gona- 
 quaas, and after them the Caffires gave names to 
 many of the hills, rivers, and brooks, but most of these 
 are unknown. 
 
 Had there not been war, we certainly should have 
 visited Geika, the Caffire king, whose residence is 
 hardly five days journey from Mr. Bogle's post. 
 
 At eleven we departed, attended by the guide we 
 had brought from the fort at Sand-flat, where' the rest 
 
 T 2
 
 ^0 JOURNEY IN ALBANY. [1813- 
 
 of our waggons ren^^ine^, and six Hottentots froqi 
 Mr. Bogle, to whon^ Ijie had given passes. Oi>e of 
 them was a serjeant whio, Ijiaving symptoifls of ^ d^ 
 cline, was anxious to embrace the opportunity of going 
 with us to the Drosdy to consult the msedical gentle- 
 men thera Mr. Bogle, with great humanity, takes 
 care of a Caffre girl about five years of age, whose 
 mother was accidentally killed in a, skirmish, and 
 whose father fled with his, GQuntjryn^fi^ into Caffrar:i^.., 
 She has a pleasant appearance, and seems at homfi it\ 
 the garrison. Her seeipg her father again depends oei 
 peace being restored between tlje colony and the^ 
 Caffres, vvhich ip all probability will not be soon^ 
 The water at the post is good, yet has the appearance 
 of being mixed with milk. 
 
 At noon, the rain began to fall very fast, wh^le 
 travelling along Zuurberg, (or Sour-l^ill,) which reur 
 dered the descent so slippery that il; was difficult tO; 
 manage the waggon, the oxen, being unable to, keep, it 
 back. The appearance of ti>e country was beautiful, 
 and abounded w^ith hillsj, trees, and verdant grass. 
 We again passed many Caffre gardens, M'hich had 
 lately been destroyed by the soldiery, lest they should 
 be a temptation to the Caflies t,o return. On exaniin- 
 ing the ground which we suppps^d was. th^t vyhjcl), had, 
 been recornmended for a missionary station, thpre did 
 not appear to be a sufficient quantity of water, and 
 the pools we saw ar^ probably without water altogether 
 in^ tht^ dry season?. Therp is indqed, plenty of stone
 
 APRIL.] JOURNEY IN ALBANY. 141 
 
 for building, on various parts of the ground, the grass 
 is good, and timber for building abounds in every 
 direction. 
 
 We arrived about four P.M. at our waggons at 
 3and-flat., They had had an uncommon fall of snow 
 during our absence. Though we had travelled over a 
 part of the country where elephants and other wild 
 beasts abound, and where Caffres often lurk, we 
 lijeither saw nor heard any of them. 
 
 When all our waggons were packed and nearly 
 veady to depart, it was judged better to postpone our 
 journey until the morning, rather than begin it only 
 ajn hour before sun-set, as the road was somewhat in- 
 tricate. W^e visited Lieutenant Flechwood, the officer 
 at the military post, whom; we found sitting in his hut,^ 
 attentively perusing the Newspapers I had left with 
 bim. He is the only officer at the post, which renders^ 
 his situation extremely solitary, having aone to asso- 
 GJatie with except the common soldiers, and a boojs 
 and family who know nothing. He is a native o£ 
 Hesse, in Germany, where having aided in an insur- 
 rection against the French, in which most of the insur- 
 gents were slain> he escaped^ with two others, to- 
 England) and obtained from the Duke of York, a 
 commission in the 60th regiment. His library con- 
 sisted only of a Dictionary and Almanack, which, 
 rendered his situation the more irJisome ; he made,, 
 however, no complaints.
 
 142 JOURNEY IN ALBANY. [i813. 
 
 The ants are remarkably troublesome there. Lieut. 
 Flechwood told us, that his sugar and butter were 
 constantly infested by them. Mr. Read recommended 
 placing them in the middle of a bason of water as the 
 only preventive, for even though suspended from the 
 roof by a small cord, they would find their way by 
 that cord. 
 
 13th. Left Sand-flat at seven in the morning, and 
 soon came in sight of some Springbucks, which afforded 
 great entertainment, from their springing at least six 
 feet every leap in height, and several yards in length. 
 However near a person may be to them, no motion 
 of their legs can be perceived ; the instant they touch 
 the ground after one spring, they rise again into the 
 air, which makes their motion resemble flying. At 
 nine A.M. we passed a military post, commanded by 
 Lieutenant Easson : near it I observed an ant-hill, 
 the largest I had seen, apparently about five-feet in 
 height, and twelve in circumference : we then crossed 
 Bushmen's River, and halted for worship and breakfast 
 on the other side. 
 
 Departed at three P.M. travelling over a level 
 country, without tree or bush, till eight in the evening, 
 when we halted at Assagai Bush, near to which stands 
 a fort and a boor's house. The boor told us they 
 had been hunting two lions the greater part of the 
 day, without success, owing to the number of bushes, 
 and that they had seen many elephants on the plain ;
 
 APRIL.] JOUHNEY in ALBANY. 143 
 
 none of us however were anxious to see them, being 
 of the same mind with an officer, who said he never 
 wished to see wild beasts, except when he had to 
 pay for the sight ; then he beheved he was safe. The 
 night was wet and uncomfortable. Thermometer at 
 noon, 65. 
 
 14th. Departed at eight A.M. and travelled over 
 an extended plain till two P.M. During this move- 
 ment we saw four droves of quachas, which seem to 
 be a species of the zebra, shaped like an ass, but the 
 size of a mule —two droves of eiland (or elk,) about 
 the size of an ox, with long straight horns, which lie 
 much upon the shoulders when running. We killed 
 a young one, which was immediately skinned and cut 
 up, and part of it eaten for dinner. We were also 
 gratified by another sight of springbucks, when the 
 height they sprang was almost incredible ; the ground 
 on which they lighted seemed as if it had been 
 elastic. 
 
 During the day, one of our Hottentots saw five 
 elephants on the other side of a small hill, near the 
 place where we halted. In the evening, not being 
 able to get forward in consequence of the rain, I 
 invited three well informed Hottentots into my tent, 
 who had resided in Caffreland, in order to obtain as 
 much additional information as I could, respecting 
 that people. Having about sixty questions written, I 
 proposed these in their order. When we had got 
 about half through the list, the Hottentots feeling
 
 Ui JOURNEY IN ALBANY. [1813. 
 
 themselves greatly fatigued by the effort of mind 
 which the answers required, begged that what remained 
 might be put off to another time, upon which our 
 company broke up. The rain coming fast through 
 the tent, induced us to try a fire in the inside to keep 
 it dry ; but the smoke soon obliged us to remove it 
 
 15th. The people were dispatched at an early hour 
 to collect and bring in our cattle, in order to proceed 
 on our journey. While at breakfast, we observed 
 Boozak on horseback, galloping down a hill opposite, 
 when I predicted he was a messenger of bad tidings, 
 that the Caffres had carried off our catde. On 
 arriving, he ran to his gun, saying, the Caffres had 
 carried off the oxen ! In a few minutes six of our 
 people were dispatched in search of them, and a 
 noessenger on horseback sent to Lieutenant Gave, who 
 commanded the nearest military post, with the infor- 
 mation, requesting his assistance to recover theftt. 
 We retained two or three armed men for our owii 
 protection. This was a new situation in which we 
 were placed, having waggons, but not a single animal 
 to draw them, and the heavens pouring down rairj 
 in torrents. At nine A.M. we heard distinctly the 
 repjort of three guns, which our people conjectured 
 was a signal that the oxen were recovered. At ten 
 A.iVf. Mr. Read called to me that the cattle were in 
 sight, soon after which they arrived. It did not appear 
 that the cattle had been carried off by the Caffres, 
 but rather that a lion or wolfe had driven them into a 
 wood, which they often do to keep them for future
 
 APRIL.] JOURNEY IN ALBANY. 145 
 
 occasions of necessity. This occurrence convinced us 
 that the cattle ought to be kept nearer the waggons in 
 the night, and that one person at least should be ap- 
 pointed to watch them. A second messenger was im- 
 mediately dispatched to Lieutenant Gare to inform 
 him of the recovery of the cattle, to prevent trouble to 
 him or his soldiers. Thermometer, at noon, 58, and 
 much rain. Some of our people were of opinion that 
 the cattle were taken away by the Caffres, and that 
 they had driven them into the wood to conceal them 
 during the day, and had fled in consequence of seeing 
 the Hottentots approach with their muskets. At five, 
 P.M. a corporal and eight Hottentot soldiers arrived 
 after a fruitless search for our cattle. Though it had 
 rained hard the whole time they had been traveUing, 
 they made no complaint, nor indeed did they speak a 
 word about their journey, but shook hands with their 
 friends who were with us, and conversed with them, 
 while we made a little tea for their refreshment. The 
 corporal and several others belonged to Betbelsdorp. 
 When the oxen were found, they were very w-arm, and 
 so tired that they could hardly be driven back. In 
 consequence of the rain continuing to fall the whole 
 day, we could not move forward, for the oxen cannot 
 endure travelling in it, as it injures their necks so 
 much by rubbing against the yoke. I spent most of 
 the afternoon and evening in obtaining information 
 respecting the Caffre nation from our Hottentots. 
 Our tent was pitched at the side of the ruins of a 
 boors house, whose name was Grobler, who with 
 another farmer was murdered there by the CafFres. 
 
 u
 
 146 JOURNEY IN ALBANY. [isis. 
 
 One of our Hottentots was present when the murder 
 was committed. Thermometer 58. 
 
 16th. The weather was so improved that we were 
 able to remove from Grobler's place at eight, A.M. 
 Shortly after our departure our people, including the 
 soldiers, to the number of about twenty, surrounded a 
 flock of Hartbucks, but though shots were fired in all 
 directions, and one or two were wounded, not one fell. 
 We frequently passed the holes of wolves, jackals, 
 &c. The mouths of some of them were so concealed 
 by the grass, that caution was necessary to escape 
 falling into them. The sight of them often reminded 
 me of the saying of Jesus, that the foxes have holes, 
 and the birds of the air have nests, but the Son of man 
 hath not where to lay his head. 
 
 At ten, A.M. we crossed the Kareka river, which 
 is the deepest we had passed. The road was strewed 
 with the dung of elephants. At noon we came in 
 sight of the Indian Ocean, which made a pleasant 
 finish to the charming prospect before us. The scene 
 was beautifully diversified by the various forms of the 
 low green hills, studded with tufts of trees, somewhat 
 resembling a park in England. 
 
 At one, P.M. we came to Lombards Fort, com- 
 manded by Lieutenants Gare (from Fortrose) and 
 Laycock, whose lady was the first I had seen in the 
 district of Albany. I felt for her as a poor solitary. 
 We thanked them most sincerely for their kindness in
 
 APUiL.] JOURNEY IN ALBANY. 147 
 
 dispatching so readily a party after our cattle, when 
 supposed to be carried off by the CatFres, and for their 
 obhging offer to assist us in any other way in their 
 power. The ground there seemed extremely fertile, 
 which the state of the garden abundantly proved, in 
 which every thing was growing luxuriantly. I had not 
 «een any trees in Africa so loaded with oranges, as a 
 row which separated the garden from a wood behind, 
 from which Mr. Gare gave us a liberal supply. After 
 dining with him, we set off at the going down of the 
 sun, and reached Lieutenant Sutherland's post, who 
 received us in the most friendly manner, and furnished 
 us with a supply of candles, of which we were desti- 
 tute, and expected to remain so till our people should 
 have leisure to make some from the fat of the animals 
 we killed. The Hottentot soldiers who could be 
 spared from duty, were permitted to attend our wor- 
 ship at the waggons. 
 
 17th. At eight, A.M. we breakfasted in the fort, 
 and at ten departed. Seven of the people accompa- 
 nied us part of the way on oxen, through a country 
 uncommonly beautiful; the hills were green to the 
 top like those in Sussex, and the grass high and good. 
 At noon we came to Reed River Fort, commanded 
 by captain Linch, who likewise shewed us every atten- 
 tion. We dined with him, and before parting he pre- 
 sented me with a large tooth of the Hippopotamus. 
 The skin of this animal is about an inch and a half 
 tliick. A bullet, which had been shot at that which 
 
 u 2
 
 148 JOURNEY IN ALBANY. [1813. 
 
 I saw, had not penetrated above half through the 
 skin. 
 
 This fort is the last towards the ocean ; of course, 
 when we left it, at three, P.M. we had no more visible 
 path. We travelled among long grass on the sides of 
 the hills, accompanied by two Hottentot soldiers as 
 guides, to the mouth of the Cowie or Buffalo River, 
 which is the only place in that quarter where it can 
 be crossed, and there we arrived about sun-set. The 
 lightning, which is almost every night in Caffreland, 
 near which we then were, was uncommonly vivid; 
 about twenty flashes every minute, attended with much 
 thunder over our heads. The sea raging and foaming 
 only a few hundred yards distant, added much to the 
 grandeur of the scene. The tent on which I was writing 
 stood among trees. The night was dark and dismal ; but 
 the lightning now and then made it resemble mid-day. 
 When going to bed in the waggon, I readily found 
 every thing I wanted, by means of the lightning. 
 
 18th. After a good night's rest, I was pleased to 
 find every thing tranquil in the morning. After wor- 
 ship and breakfast we walked along the beach, ad- 
 miring the ocean s foaming billows, as one of the works 
 of God, and none of the least wonderful. When Mr. 
 Smith had preached to our company, our guides con- 
 sidered the tide nearly at its lowest ebb, wherefore we 
 prepared to cross the river, by putting such things as 
 were likely to be most injured by salt water, as high 
 in the waggon as possible. About eleven, A.M. we
 
 APRIL.] JOURNEY IN ALBANY. 149 
 
 entered the river, a few hundred yards from its mouth : 
 it had a formidable aspect, being at least a quarter of 
 a mile broad. A soldier on horseback led the way, 
 to shew us the best passage. Two or three times his 
 horse's head only appearetl above water : it was the 
 same with our oxen, their backs being in the water, 
 and at one place they were obliged to have recourse 
 to swimming. When the last waggon was within 
 about a hundred yards of the other side, one of the 
 leading oxen sunk in a swamp nearly to the neck, and 
 with considerable difficulty was extricated from it. 
 Immediately on arriving at the beach, we were obliged 
 to ascend a narrow and nearly perpendicular path 
 across a wood, which was also troublesome in conse- 
 quence of some of the trees projecting over the path, 
 which oblicred us to cut down large branches, to give 
 room for our waggons to pass. Limbs of trees, broken 
 off by the shoulders of elephants when passing, formed 
 also obstructions. I examined one of the foot-marks 
 of this huge animal, which appeared about fifteen 
 inches across. Had any of them, when coming down 
 that long and narrow pass to drink in the river, met 
 us, I know not what might have been the consequence, 
 as there was no room for our waggons to turn, and 
 elephants, it seems, will not give way ; as for our bul- 
 lets, being only lead, they would not have felt them. 
 Many of their footsteps were but newly made, which 
 our Hottentots knew, from the grass which they had 
 pressed down not being then risen up. However, by 
 a kind providence, we got safely through the wood, 
 which extended upwards of a mile across, and bid
 
 150 JOURNEY IN ALBANY. [1813. 
 
 farewel to the eastern coast of Africa, and the Indian 
 Ocean, to travel across the continent till vre should 
 reach the western shores, and the Ethiopic Ocean, 
 which 1 hoped to find practicable. 
 
 On the beach near the mouth of Buffalo River, 
 some soldiers belonging to one of the forts had been 
 fishing, and having thrown the entrails of the fishes 
 they caught into the sea, a number of sharks were 
 thereby collected. As one of the soldier s children was 
 walking near the water, a shark made a spring at him, 
 and nearly had him in his mouth. A red frock which 
 the child wore was thought to have engaged the atten- 
 tion of this ravenous animal. 
 
 Our travelling Mas now in trackless deserts, for there 
 were no paths, except such as had been formed by wild 
 beasts going to drink. One of our Hottentots brought 
 me from a pool, which we were passing, one of the finest 
 water flowers I had ever seen. It was nearly the size 
 and shape of an ordinary sun-flower, but its colours 
 resembled those of the passion flower, and the scent 
 was very grateful, somewhat resembling the sweet pea. 
 It grows in the water, near the side. The outer leaves 
 are of a very light blue; the first row of petals are 
 dark brown, having each a light blue ball at their tops ; 
 the next rows, which are more thinly scattered, are 
 light yellow, with darker blue tops ; the centre, which 
 is about the size of a sixpence, is still darker yellow. 
 Being no botanist, I knew not its name, or whether it 
 has a name; but it deserves to be called the star
 
 AViiiL.] JOURNEY IN ALBANY. isi 
 
 flower. Mr. Uibricht brought me a wild fruit, nearly 
 of the shape of a hen's egg; the upper part was red 
 like a cherry ; it was tapering towards the bottom, and 
 yellow was most curiously intermingled with the red; 
 and about half an inch from the stalk it was dark 
 green, so that at first sight I thought it was a cup to 
 the fruit. Its external appearance was elegant, but 
 the taste was nauseous. After travelling about an 
 hour we halted at a pool of water, which was at about 
 three hours distance from Caffraria. Though we had 
 about thirty Hottentots in our company, not one had 
 ever before been in that part of Africa. In the afternoon 
 two of our people fell in with a large elephant, but 
 they were afraid to molest him by attempting to shoot 
 him, as it was in a plain, and there was no place of 
 refuge near. The lightning commenced at sun-set, 
 and the thunder about half after six. Thermometer, at 
 noon, 71. 
 
 19th. Before sun-rise I heard a volley of muskets 
 fired off, but knew not on what occasion, till the good 
 news was brought us that a buffalo was killed, which 
 I perceived afforded great pleasure to our Hottentots, 
 who, from their habits, wish to live almost entirely 
 upon animal food. On getting out of the waggon I 
 walked to the spot, where I found them busy in 
 skinning the animal, which was very large — I suppose 
 half as large again as one of our oxen, with most 
 formidable horns, which I brought with me to Eng- 
 land. In about an hour they had cut up the buffalo, 
 and put tlie pieces into three waggons, after which we
 
 15^ JOURNEY IN ALBANY. [181^. 
 
 proceeded on our journey. The morning felt cold. 
 At nine, A.M. the thermometer stood at 62. On our 
 way wc saw six ostriches running very ssviftly along, 
 but our dog Succo following them, they were obliged to 
 have recourse to their win2;s to assist in makins their 
 escape, which made it half running, half flying. Many 
 quachas Mere seen at a distance, and one drove passed 
 very near us. They, like most of the m ild beasts we 
 saw, ran in a continued line, one foUowino; another. 
 At ten, A.M. we came to a wood, when a Hottentot 
 was sent forward to examine an opening, to see if the 
 waggons could pass. A road made by the elephants 
 was found to be a good one. We observed two trees, 
 and a large branch of a third, lately broken down by 
 them, which, our people said, they do when out of 
 humour. On tlie summit of a hill before us we ob- 
 served some men descending towards us. We found 
 they were a party of soldiers kindly sent by Captain 
 Linch in quest of us, to learn if we were safe, and had 
 found our way. I believe we ought to have solicited 
 an escort while travelling within sight of CafFreland, 
 and beyond all military posts. This had not occurred 
 to me as at all necessary ; and though it did occur to 
 Mr. Read, his modesty prevented his mentioning it to 
 Captain Linch before we left his fort. The soldiers had 
 shot a hart, but had left it behind. We sent a pack 
 ox to bring it to our halting place, which arrived soon 
 after we had reached it. It was about the size of a 
 mule, and from its shape appeared to be made for 
 swiftness. While at breakfast one of our parties 
 brought an elk, cut up, and hanging upon the backs of
 
 APRIL.] JOURNEY IN ALBANY. 153 
 
 four oxen. We had now a store of flesh sufficient to 
 serve us for a fortnight. The mountains of Caffraria 
 were very visible, a little to the eastward. The grass 
 around us was tall, thick, and sweet ; but we saw no 
 other inhabitants than the wild beasts, and no other 
 paths than those which they made in travelling to pools 
 of water. Thermometer, at noon, 74. 
 
 Our people, divided into parties, were variously 
 employed. Some were busy in cutting the flesh of 
 the animals killed, into thin slices; others in hang- 
 ing what had been cut upon the thorn trees, which 
 exhibited a peculiar appearance. The meat thus 
 exposed is intended to be dried in the sun. Others 
 were cutting it into long thick pieces, to make what 
 they term bill-tongue; others were salting the bill- 
 tongue, which eats remarkably well when dried, 
 without any other preparation. 
 
 The Hottentot manner of drinking water from a 
 pool or stream is very curious ; they throw it up with 
 their right hand into their mouth, seldom bringing the 
 hand nearer than a foot's distance from the mouth, and 
 so quick, that however thirsty, they are soon satisfied. 
 I tried frequently to imitate this practice, but without 
 success. 
 
 The country in which we were now travelling lies 
 between the Buffalo and Great Fish Rivers. When the 
 Caffres under Congo aud Slamba dwelt in Albany, 
 they always allowed this district to remain without 
 
 X
 
 IH JOURNEY IN ALBANY. [1813. 
 
 inhabitant, in order to serve as a defence betweem them 
 and Geika, the chief of the other Caflfres. 
 
 Departed about two, P.M. Part of the soldiers, 
 and six of our own armed Hottentots, kept about a 
 quarter of a mile ahead of us ; the other soldiers kept 
 at some distance on our right, between us and CafFra- 
 ria ; and a few of our own people remained with the 
 waggons. It was amusing to see the men riding upon 
 the oxen with their guns, for they had a very odd ap- 
 pearance. Two ostriches crossed immediately before 
 the waggons, running swiftly, though awkwardly, from 
 the disproportion between the great length of their 
 legs and the size of their bodies. They are gregarious, 
 for you seldom meet with single ones. 
 
 At four, P.M. we entered an extensive plain, to 
 which we saw no bounds before us, or to the right. 
 The soldiers left us a little after reaching this plain, to 
 return to their post. They were commanded by a 
 clever young Hottentot, Piet Bruntges, son to William 
 Bruntges of Bavian s Kloof, who conducted Dr. Van- 
 derkemp to CaftVaria, and who is supposed to be the 
 oldest man in South Africa. Piet belongs to Bethels- 
 dorp. He and Boosak have been the principal con- 
 ductors of all the Commandoes against the CafFres. 
 
 The plain was in many parts marshy, owing to the 
 late rains, which, with the want of wood for our fires, 
 prevented our halting at sun-set. When the sun was 
 going down, we looked wishfully in every direction,
 
 APRIL.] JOURNEY IN ALBANY. 155 
 
 but could discover neither tree nor bush. We went 
 forward in the dark till about nine o'clock, when we 
 came both to trees and water on the side of a hill, 
 which induced us to halt for the night, which was very 
 cold. 
 
 20th. On examining the ground here, it appeared 
 tolerably well adapted for a settlement, and likely to 
 have water all the year, though not in abundance; 
 but other spots which we have seen, especially that 
 near Captain Liche's post, appear preferable. Ever 
 since we left Cape-town, we had been travelling 
 E.E. by N. but now we altered our course towards 
 N.W. by W. 
 
 About sun-rise we departed, travelling among low 
 green hills, and now and then crossing brooks which 
 separate the hills. We met Captain Eraser, Deputy 
 Landdrost, on his way to the Great Fish River, which 
 divides Caffreland from Albany, to examine its banks, 
 to judge if it were practicable to render it an obstacle 
 to the Caffres carrying off the cattle which they steal 
 from the boors in the colony. The captain assuring 
 us he would return to Graham's town on Thursday, 
 we resolved to wait until that time to meet with him. 
 At eleven, A.M. we came to a charming place, called 
 Blue Rock, surrounded with rising grounds, covered, 
 or rather beautifully interspersed, with the camel thorn 
 tree. There a military post was lately erected, com- 
 manded by Lieutenant Leydenham from Edinburgh. 
 His house not being finished, he lived in a comfortable 
 
 X 2
 
 156 JOURNEY IN ALBANY. [1813, 
 
 tent, where we partook of an early dinner, and he 
 kindly wished our stay to be protracted as long as 
 possible. The place appeared well suited for a sta- 
 tion, though the water is not very abundant. Mr. 
 Lydenham very politely accompanied us half a mile 
 from his post, when we took leave, for Graham's 
 town. About three miles forward we looked down 
 from the edge of an extensive plain upon a valley that 
 appeared to have been excavated from the plain and 
 the hills to the eastward, and likely always to have 
 plenty of grass and water. Darkness came upon us 
 before we could reach Graham's town ; however, we 
 were satisfied that we were not far distant, first by hear- 
 ing the sound of a trumpet, then by observing lights, 
 and soon after by the arrival of a Hottentot on horse- 
 back to be our guide into the town ; he was sent by 
 the Rev. Mr. Vanderlingen, chaplain to the Cape 
 regiment of Hottentots, who was formerly one of our 
 missionaries. Without the assistance of this guide we 
 certainly should have found difficulty in getting for- 
 w^ard in the dark, the road being rather intricate. At 
 eight, P.M. we reached Mr. Vanderlingens, and were 
 hospitably received. 
 
 21st. Graham's town is named after Colonel 
 Graham, who commanded the troops sent against 
 the Caffres, when they were driven beyond the Great 
 Fish River. The situation is pleasant and healthy, 
 and enjoys sufficient water all the year. The houses 
 are built of mud and reeds. It is the residence of 
 the deputy Landdrost, and the head-quarters of the
 
 APRIL.] JOURNEY IN ALBANY. 157 
 
 military stationed in Albany. Some of the officers 
 have already good gardens, though the town has not 
 existed a year. 
 
 Mr. Vanderlingen, who was sent out as a missionary 
 from the Rotterdam Society, has acted several years 
 as chaplain to the Cape regiment, to which I believe 
 God has made him a blessing. 
 
 In the morning we received visits from various 
 officers, and in the afternoon visited some of them in 
 their own houses, which, though small, and built of 
 mud, are pretty comfortable. 
 
 22nd. In the forenoon I rode with Major Prentice 
 in his waggon to a boor's, a few miles distant, who 
 was lately plundered of sheep by the Caffi-es. A son 
 of his, a stout young man, lately left him from dread 
 of being murdered by them. The family have occasion 
 to be in constant readiness to repel any attack that may 
 be made upon them, which undoubtedly is a most 
 irksome situation to be in ; yet people by habit may 
 become so accustomed to perils as to think htde of 
 them, which I experienced afterwards ; but I should 
 greatly prefer that peace of mind in the midst of dan- 
 gers, which proceeds from confidence in the divine 
 protection, to that freedom from anxiety which is 
 merely the effect of habit. 
 
 At five, P.M. we dined at the officers' mess, when 
 we were glad to find Captain Fraser was returned,
 
 158 JOURNEY IN ALBANY. [1813. 
 
 being anxious to consult him respecting the best place 
 in his district for a missionary settlement. He was 
 very willing to give all the information in his power, 
 and no one is better qualified. 
 
 23rd. Breakfasted with Captain Fraser, who afford- 
 ed all the information we wanted, and likewise gave an 
 order to the commanders of miUtary posts within his 
 district, to furnish us with escorts from post to post, 
 and to the farmers, should we have occasion, to fur- 
 nish us with oxen, &c.
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM GRAHAM'S TOWN— VISIT TO VARIOUS 
 MILITARY POSTS— INTERVIEW WITH A CAFFRE FAMILY 
 —ARRIVAL AT GRAAF REYNET. 
 
 After taking an early dinner with Mr. Hart, 
 (adjutant,) we expected immediately to leave Graham's 
 town, but two of our oxen having strayed, we were 
 detained till four o'clock, when we were again in 
 motion. About thirty of the inhabitants followed us 
 a mile from the town, and bade us adieu. A poor 
 Serjeant of the 21st. dragoons, whose mind was greatly 
 harassed, walked by the side of my waggon, relating 
 his doleful tale. I had no doubt that he stood in need 
 of medical aid, as well as of any counsel I could give. 
 His nerves were much affected, and his strength of body 
 greatly reduced. The officers spoke very favourably 
 of his character and conduct as a soldier. 
 
 About two miles further, we came to two paths, 
 one leading to Graaf Reynet, and the other to Bethels- 
 dorp. Here, Mr. Ulbricht, Boozak, and a few others 
 who accompanied us for a fortnight, left us to return 
 to Bethelsdorp, My eyes followed them till the 
 intervention of a hill deprived me of the sight of those,
 
 i60 JOURNEY IN ALBANY. [i813. 
 
 Tvhom I expected to see no more in this world. A 
 little after sun-set we halted at Captain M'Niels 
 post for the night, from whom I met with a friendly 
 reception. 
 
 With the assistance of some of his Hottentots he 
 has built a comfortable house. Their hands were the 
 only trowels used upon the occasion. Without the 
 personal assistance of the officers, little can be done, 
 which necessity will be of service both to officers and 
 Hottentots. Mr. Vanderlingen, who, with Mrs. V. 
 accompanied us to Graaf Reynet, preached to the 
 garrison. 
 
 24th. We departed a little after sun-rising with an 
 escort for protection, and at nine A.M. halted at a 
 small brook on the side of a wood. On our way, we 
 observed a place seemingly well suited for a mis- 
 sionary station. A little before sun-set we came to a 
 boor's place, among trees, where there was a small 
 military post, to which Mr. V. had gone on before 
 us, in order to preach to the soldiers. The boor had 
 abundance of cattle and sheep. During the short 
 time we spent with the family, I observed the female 
 Hottentot servants laughing very impudently at the 
 dress of some of our party, but I could not perceive 
 which of us they had in view. The place was solitary, 
 but otherwise pleasant, neaiiy encircled with hills, at 
 the bottom of which were many orange, peach, and 
 other fruit trees.
 
 APRIL.] JOURNEY IN ALBANY. i6l 
 
 It was almost dark when we left this place, with 
 four soldiers for our escort. The road, which lay 
 over hills, was rough, with steep descents now and 
 then, which made it troublesome to travel in the dark. 
 At seven P.M. we halted at a boor's place, (Vandyke,) 
 where a Serjeant's party is stationed, to whom Mr. V. 
 preached in a house, and Mr. R. to our people at the 
 waggons. Thermometer at noon, 78. 
 
 25th. Left Vandyke before sun-rise, taking the 
 advantage of the light of the waning moon, which 
 rose before four in the morning. At nine A.M. after 
 travelling among low hills, and woods of bushes. Me 
 reached Z wart- water- port, where there is a fort com- 
 manded by Lieutenant Ellert, a German gentleman, 
 who was very kind and attentive to our comfort. The 
 soldiers at eleven A.M. were marched to our waggons, 
 when Mr. Vanderlingen preached. The place is 
 called Port, because there is a narrow pass through 
 the mountains, which appear to have been divided by 
 some convulsion of nature in former ages. Irjdeed, the 
 two stupendous perpendicular sides of the pass are of 
 such shapes, as indicate a former union. At some 
 places the sides are not a hundred feet apart, and 
 a small river runs between. On the sides are caves 
 above caves, and trees projecting from the rocks. 
 We went through the pass to visit some Hottentots 
 stationed a little beyond the other end. As we went 
 along, the baboons from the heights looked down upon 
 us with an angry roar. On coming to the Hottentots, 
 Mr, Reid found one or two of his friends prospering 
 
 Y
 
 1^2 JOURNEY IN ALBANY. [1813. 
 
 in their souls, and happy in the knowledge and love 
 of Jesus Christ. From this place no signs of human 
 society or cultivation appeared in any direction. On 
 returning to the pass, a honey bird (which leads 
 travellers to hives of bees,) invited us by its chirping to 
 a place where honey might be found. One or two of 
 our escort went towards it, when it flew from tree to 
 tree, chirping ; but, as the hive appeared two distant, 
 they returned. Thermometer at noon, 80. 
 
 After dining with Mr. Ellert, we departed about 
 sun-set, and arrived at a post commanded by Lieu- 
 tenant Devonish, about eight P.M. who received us 
 very kindly. 
 
 CafFreland being near, Caffres are often lurking 
 among the bushes, but the soldiers have never been 
 able to sieze one, they are so expert in pushing through, 
 what to others is impenetrable underwood. They 
 wrap themselves up in their carosses or skin cloaks, 
 which is their only dress, and, leaping into the closest 
 thickets, will get through without a scratch, where 
 none can follow so as to overtake them. Now and 
 then they listen to hear if their pursuers are near, 
 when they dart forward in another direction, and 
 always escape. 
 
 Left Mr. Devonish's post at seven A.M. Crossed 
 the Little Fish River at eight, which was deep though 
 narrow. At nine, halted at the post of Captain Suton, 
 from Edinburgh, where a court martial was sitting
 
 APRIL.] JOURNEY IN ALBANY. 153 
 
 upon two soldiers of the 60th regiment. Walking 
 alone on the shaded banks of a brook, a few willows 
 appeared which arrested my attention, as they were 
 the first I had yet seen in Africa. 
 
 A boor and family attended our worship, at which 
 an address is always given from the part of scripture 
 read upon the occasion ; after which we walked with 
 them to their house. They did not appear social at 
 their meal, for two of the elder daughters sat by them- 
 selves in one part of the large room, eating boiled 
 pumpkins ; and two smaller girls sat on the floor in 
 another quarter, employed much in the same way; 
 while the parents treated us with a dish of coffee at 
 another corner. The boor's wife had serious thoughts 
 respecting a judgment to come, and many fears, but 
 her husband said, he knew that whatever kind of a 
 man he was, he had grace within him, and that he 
 had no fear. Poor creatures, they are far removed 
 from all means of instruction, and like most of the 
 boors in the interior, have almost nothing to do, in 
 consequence of living by their cattle, without culti- 
 vating the ground. This idleness produces a sottish- 
 ness and stupidity evident in many of their vacant 
 countenances. Here they have only to smoke their 
 pipe, and once a day to count their cattle. 
 
 In consequence of an invitation from Captain S< 
 we waited on him, and conversed for an hour. At 
 four P.M. we prepared for our departure, when 
 several of the officers attending the court martial came 
 
 Y 2
 
 l54 JOURNEY IN ALBANY. [18I3. 
 
 to take leave of us. We now travelled within about a 
 mile of Caffraria, and without an escort. Heavy showers 
 of rain fell round about, but none where we were. 
 We observed no inhabitant, or hut, in that part of 
 Caffraria which lay upon our right ; indeed, none of 
 their villages are nearer than two days journey beyond 
 the Great Fish River. At seven P.M. we arrived at 
 the post of Lieutenant Forbes, within a few hundred 
 yards of the river. 
 
 27th. Departed at sun-rise, still travelling in view 
 of Caffraria. We passed two large flocks of sheep, 
 which are safer there than cattle, as the Cafifres care 
 little for sheep. Our Hottentots met some of their 
 acquaintance on the road, whom they kissed very 
 affectionately, the men holding their hats about half 
 off their heads when they gave this friendly salutation. 
 At nine A.M. we came to Lieutenant Rosseau's post, 
 with whom we stopped a few minutes. His and the 
 other houses were lately washed away, by a sudden 
 and uncommon rise of the river. He had but just 
 time to run out to save his life ; and what was sur- 
 prising, when the river subsided, he recovered all his 
 wine glasses, cups, and so forth, out of the mud, with- 
 out one being injured. The houses were built of clay, 
 and have all been rebuilt. 
 
 Arrived at about ten A.M. at Captain Andrews' 
 post. The fort is erected on the side of the Fish 
 River, where he has built the best house I have seen 
 in Albany ; acting as carpenter himself, and instructing
 
 APRIL.] JOURNEY IN ALBANY. l65 
 
 the Hottentots to assist him. He has also a good 
 garden, and has made an engine to raise water, about 
 thirty-feet from the river, to water his garden, which 
 no less astonishes the boors than the Hottentots. He 
 was very anxious that the boor, who lives near the fort, 
 should cultivate a piece of his farm to raise a little 
 grain for bread; and as an inducement to his con- 
 senting to the proposal, he offered to bring the water 
 of two neighbouring fountains to water his ground; 
 but all his arguments made no impression on the lazy 
 boor, who said it would be bye (or superfluous) trouble. 
 He would rather send five days journey to purchase 
 flour, than be at the trouble to plough, sow, and reap 
 his own ground. After dining with the captain, and 
 expecting to depart, we were informed that all our 
 oxen were missing, and our people all gone in search 
 of them. When the Captain heard of this, he instantly 
 dispatched a party of soldiers in pursuit. Being so 
 near Cafli'eland, the Cafires were supposed to be the 
 thieves. In two hours all were brought back in 
 triumph ; but being almost dark, we judged it prudent 
 not to move till the morning. In the evening we found 
 Captain Andrews' conversation very interesting, as he 
 had been in Spain the greater part of the war. 
 
 28th. An hour before sun-rise, having packed every 
 thing in our waggons, we departed under the pro- 
 tection of an escort. The morning and the scenery 
 around were pleasant. The first part of the road lay 
 along a wide valley, bounded by hills on each side, and 
 afterwards over an extended plain, which certainly has
 
 1^6 JOURNEY IN ALBANY. [1813. 
 
 never been disturbed by the application of either plough 
 or spade. A few springbucks seemed to be the unmo- 
 lested lords of that green wilderness. 
 
 .I'.i 
 At nine A.M. we crossed the Little Fish River, and 
 halted on the opposite bank, near De Clerk's Place. 
 After breakfast, our escort left us, to be succeeded by 
 no other, Caffraria being left behind. We moved for- 
 ward at two P.M. over an extensive plain, full of game, 
 though we happened not to kill any. Passed by the 
 places of two boors, who possessed the largest flocks 
 of sheep I had ever seen- Before sun-set we turned 
 round hills that had been on our right all day, so that 
 our route was N.W. by N. instead of W. Halted at 
 eight P.M. in a wood of camel thorn trees, called 
 Under Bruntjees Hoogte, or Height. 
 
 29th. Departed at seven A.M. and reached Brunt- 
 jees Hoogte by eight A.M. The descent is long and 
 winding, by the side of a steep mountain. In rainy 
 weather, when the road is slippery, it must be very 
 dangerous; for should the waggon slide only a few 
 inches to the left, it would inevitably be precipitated 
 many hundred feet to the bottom of the mountain. 
 Near the end of the descent, we found a Caflre family 
 sitting by a fire, consisting of husband, wife and daugh- 
 ter. They said they had come from the Sea Cow 
 River, in consequence of the bushmen constantly 
 killing the CafFres, and were returning to Caffreland. 
 The man was remarkably well shaped, was slightly 
 covered with a skin cloak, and had several rows of
 
 AVRiL.] JOURNEY TO GRAAF REYNET. 167 
 
 beads round his neck, hanging over his breast Hke a 
 chain. His wife and daughter had a httle more cloth- 
 ing. The former was in a dechne, and her weakness 
 had prevented their proceeding with some of their 
 friends who were a Httle before them. We gave them 
 some wine for the sick woman, with a little bread, 
 which they received gratefully. When the girl had 
 drank the half of her share of the wine, her father 
 seized it and drank it himself, saying, with a smile, 
 It is good. He had six assagays, or spears, with him, 
 which are the principal weapons used in war and in 
 self-defence. They were all painted nearly of the 
 same colour as mahogany. Their countenances were 
 agreeable; their hair was short black wool, nearly 
 resembling that of the Hottentots. The girl, about 
 fourteen years of age, wore two short brass chains, 
 hanging from her hair over her temples. 
 
 The hills on our right were beautiful, of various 
 shapes, and covered with lively green. They seemed 
 to consist of different stories, by means of regular 
 strata, that projected beyond the grass, and added 
 greatly to their picturesque appearance. At eleven 
 A.M. we halted at a pleasant sj,ot under a hill, where 
 we took our breakfast, but found our bread and flour 
 were exhausted ; we obtained, however, a piece of a 
 loaf from a boor who was passing. Our Hottentot, 
 Cupido, was born in this part of the country; he 
 halted the preceding day at a boor's, where he preached 
 in the evening and morning, who on his leaving, gave
 
 l68 JOURNEY TO GRAAF REYNET. [1813. 
 
 him a horse to overtake ua. Tliermometer at noon, 
 84. 
 
 Having passed Bruntjees Height, we left Albany 
 behind, Graaf Reynet being our next destination. 
 We moved forward at two P.j\f. and in about an hour 
 passed a boor's place, consisting of three miserable 
 huts, surrounded by no cultivation, all lying in a state 
 of nature. About eight in the evening we halted at 
 De Toyt's Place, where we had worship with our 
 Hottentots, the boor's family and servants, which made 
 a considerable congregation for such a barren wilder- 
 ness. The family were very agreeable and kind, some 
 of whom appeared to be sincere christians. 
 
 30th. The morning was very cold, the thermometer 
 at sun-rise being as low as forty-five. Observing 
 some houses in ruins, I enquired how they had been 
 destroyed, and learned that some years before, the 
 boors in that part of the country went in a body and 
 drove the Landdrost from Graaf Reynet, because 
 some of his proceedings displeased them. While thus 
 employed, the CafFres seized the opportunity to make 
 an attack on their defenceless places, when they de- 
 stroyed many of their houses, and carried off much 
 cattle.. ; 
 
 Waiting for the purchase of bread, we delayed our 
 departure tintil eight in the morning. We crossed 
 Fogil (or Bird) river, and travelled on a plain, having
 
 APRIL.] JOURNEY TO GRAAF REYNET. 169 
 
 the mountains of Sneuberg immediately on our right. 
 At ten A.M. while the cattle halted to rest awhile, 
 Mr. Read and I walked forward, when feeling the heat 
 becoming oppressive, we took shelter under a spreading 
 bush. A road made by ants to their nest passed the 
 place where we stood. We observed thousands of 
 these little animals passing and repassing : those 
 travelling south, carried burdens ; those going north, 
 were in search of something to bring home. In part 
 of this path I observed a great error they had com- 
 mitted at the original planning of it, for they had to 
 ascend a cliff of almost two feet perpendicular height, 
 while ascending which, I observed three or four who 
 were dragging litde berries, fall with their loads from 
 projecting parts to the very bottom of the cliff; and 
 they were so stunned by the fall, that notwithstanding 
 their activity, it was almost a minute before they 
 recovered, and began to make a fresh attempt. 
 
 Yesterday we shot three bucks, and this morning 
 one, which saves our sheep. The earth or mould in 
 this part of the country is red, covered with heath 
 mixed with grass. At eleven we halted at Hang-bush, 
 near a small pool of water, the colour of soap suds. 
 We found that the party of Caffres who were flying 
 from the bushmen's country to their own, had lately 
 stopped here, as their temporary huts composed of 
 branches of trees were entire, and the leaves on the 
 branches were but little withered. Thermometer at 
 noon, 68.
 
 170 JOURNEY TO GRAAF REYNET. [1813. 
 
 At four P.M. we proceeded on our journey, ad- 
 miring the diversified forms of the mountains on our 
 right. At eight we haUed for half an hour at a boor's, 
 called Grobler, who was eighty- three years of age. 
 Though the night was very cold, yet for the sake of 
 water we travelled till near midnight, when we reached 
 Lions' Fountain. At a little distance we observed a 
 great fire, and people dancing around it, because it 
 was new moon. I observed Cupido quietly walk up 
 to them and hold some conversation, when they 
 ran off. 
 
 31st. Though we were informed that many lions 
 were in the neighbourhood, we were not molested 
 during the night. At sun-rising, the thermometer 
 stood at 40. At ten A.M. we halted at a river, 
 almost dry, where three boors' waggons were also 
 halting. Some of their people attended our worship. 
 They were also travelling to Graaf Reynet, from 
 which we were only two hours distant, though there 
 were no signs of cultivation in any direction, nor any 
 other appearance of approaching a town. Thermo- 
 meter at noon, 82. 
 
 Departed at three P.M. and in about an hour were 
 met by our friend Mr. Kicherer, minister of Graaf 
 Reynet, with a horse waggon, in which he conveyed 
 us with speed to his hospitable home. We had twice 
 to cross the Sondag river ; but being low, it was easily 
 accomplished. Glad was I to find that Mr. Burchel,
 
 APRIL.] JOURNEY TO GRAAF REYNET. in 
 
 who lately returned from making botanical researches 
 higher up the interior, was not gone ; but had kindly 
 postponed his departure in expectation of my arrival. 
 He was the first person who travelled direct from 
 Graaf Reynet to our missionary station at Klaar 
 Water, beyond the Great River, by which route he 
 thought we might accomplish the journey in a month. 
 He returned by another road, which would require two 
 months ; but he recommended the shortest, as one of 
 his people had consented to be our guide, and he ad- 
 vised us to use the utmost caution in guarding our catUe 
 while travelling among the bushmen, as they murder 
 only for the sake of cattle, and should they observe 
 us to be off our guard, they would make attempts to 
 obtain them. During the afternoon I saw Martha 
 and Mary, who were in England about ten years 
 ago, who live at Graaf Reynet, as does John also, 
 the husband of Mary. Mr. Burchel favoured us in 
 the evening with his company, when he also com- 
 municated much interesting intelligence from the in- 
 terior of Africa; in return for which, I related to him 
 the news of European affairs.
 
 CHAP. XL 
 
 OCCURRENCES AT GRAAF REYNET, AND DURING JOUR- 
 NEY IN SNEUBERG — ARRIVAL AT THE BOUNDARY 
 OF THE COLONY. 
 
 May 2. 
 
 Attended worship in the church at nine A.M. 
 when Mr. Kicherer gave us two discourses from a 
 part of the Creed, after which, six couple of white 
 people were married. In the evening Mr. Read 
 preached in what is called the Heathen's Meeting- 
 house, to many people both white and black. 
 
 3d. Attended in the evening the monthly prayer 
 meeting for the conversion of the heathen; Mr. Smith, 
 from Bethelsdorp, gave the address. 
 
 4th. Was present at the slaves' meeting, where two 
 slaves and three whites engaged in prayer. The two 
 latter gave many exhortations in a serious and affec- 
 tionate manner to the poor slaves. 1 also visited a 
 meeting of females for prayer and christian conference, 
 which about twenty were present; I made a few re- 
 marks, which were interpreted by Mr. Kicherer.
 
 MAY.] GRAAF REYNET. 173 
 
 6tb. In the evening I preached to a full house, by 
 the help of Messrs. Read and Kicherer as my inter- 
 preters. The Landdrost and family were present, 
 whom many were glad to see in the slave meeting. 
 While thus employed, I could not but reflect with 
 pleasure, that some minister was at the same time 
 preaching at the Annual Meeting of the Missionary 
 Society in London. 
 
 6th. Dined with the Landdrost (Mr. Fisher), and 
 a large party. Every thing at dinner was served up 
 exactly in the European style. He kindly offered to 
 serve me in any way in his power. 
 
 8th. Dined with the Secretary Mr. M , together 
 
 with a large party. The extent and progress of every 
 thing in his garden surprised me much, when I heard 
 that all had been accomplished in three years. It 
 proved the proprietor's assiduity, and the rapidity of 
 vegetation in that quarter. 
 
 9th. Attended at Mr. Kicherer's place of worship, 
 where we had two long sermons and two short prayers. 
 In the evening the Schoolmaster addressed the slaves. 
 Mr. K. sets every one to work who he thinks has a 
 talent for it. 
 
 10th. The Landdrost sent a slave with a young 
 lion to shew me as a curiosity. A person in the 
 neighbourhood had lately shot its father; on seeing 
 which the lioness sprang from her den upon the mur-
 
 174 GRAAF REYNET. [1813. 
 
 derer of her mate, and in an instant laid him on the 
 ground and began to tear him ; his brother, who was 
 near, fired his musket on her, and the ball penetrating 
 the animals throat, brought her to the ground, and 
 rescued the poor man from the jaws of death, but 
 not before he was terribly lacerated. In this way the 
 young lion was obtained. I saw the skins of its parents 
 at the Landdrost's. That of the male is black at the 
 shoulders and part of the, back, which is rather unusual 
 in that part of Africa. The hair hanging from the 
 head and neck is about twelve inches long, and as 
 the lion has power to make his hair stand erect, this 
 one, when alive, must have had a terrifying appear- 
 ance. In the evening I preached a farewell discourse, 
 by means of my two interpreters. 
 
 1 1 th. About eleven o'clock, while our waggons were 
 before the door, ready to depart, we engaged in prayer 
 with many friends who came to bid us farewell, and 
 many waited in the street for the same purpose — after 
 which we parted from this kind people, accompanied 
 by Mr. Kicherer and four of his friends. Two boors 
 from Sneuberg, to which we were going, brought their 
 horse waggons to convey us more quickly thither. 
 These, with our own three ox waggons left the town 
 together, which, with our driven oxen and the armed 
 Hottentots who accompanied us, had much of the ap- 
 pearance of an eastern caravan. I felt pain in sepa- 
 rating from so many kind friends, whom I was never 
 likely to meet again on earth ; but our work re- 
 quired it. Graaf Reynet was soon out of sight, when
 
 MAY.] JOURNEY IN SNEUBERG. ifS 
 
 an extensive plain, surrounded with hills, presented 
 itself; on crossing which we ascended Sneuberg, (or 
 Snow-mountain,) from whence a large district of the 
 colony derives its name. At two P.M. we dined at 
 Magis-fountain, about twenty miles north-west of Graaf 
 Reynet. Near the house is an excavation at least sixty- 
 feet deep, made by a small river which runs over rocks 
 till opposite the boor's house, when coming at once 
 to a sandy soil, it has carried the sand away to the 
 depth of sixty or seventy-feet, and falls over the rocky 
 cliff at three different places, so as to form a very 
 striking object. About half an hour after leaving 
 Magis-fountain, we passed a similar excavation and a 
 water-fall, only deeper and still more grand in its 
 appearance. After travelling two or three hours by 
 moon-light, we reached the residence of Mr. Heerden, 
 who had kindly driven us in his eight horse waggon, 
 about forty miles north-west of Graaf Reynet. 
 
 12th. About seven waggons with people arrived 
 during the day to attend divine worship in the evening. 
 At six o'clock I preached to them in a large room. 
 Our waggons arrived during sermon. 
 
 1 3th. Mr. Heerden furnished us with many things 
 for our journey, among which was a horse he presented 
 to the Society. He has several bushmen in his service, 
 three or four of whom he brought into the room to 
 let us see them. They were extremely timid, and 
 seemed glad to get away. Mr. Kicherer preached
 
 176 JOURNEY IN SNEUBERG. [1813. 
 
 in the forenoon, and at four P.M. we departed, ac- 
 companied by most of the family. After travelling 
 u'ith great speed along the banks of the Buffalo River 
 for an hour and a half, between low hills, we arrived 
 at ]\Ir. Burchar's, which is a lively place, in a plain, 
 bounded by low hills at a little distance. A small 
 stream which turns a flour mill passes before the house, 
 and only a hundred yards beyond it runs the Buffalo 
 River, in a bed formed out of a rock, where there 
 is a water-fall of about twenty-feet, all which con- 
 tributes to the beauty of the place. About twelve 
 waggons had arrived before us, when Mr. Read 
 preached to a good congregation in the large room. 
 The people were very attentive, as indeed they always 
 are in this part of the colony. 
 
 14th. In the morning the ground was white, in 
 consequence of the frost during the night, this being 
 the first month of their winter. At noon, though there 
 was pleasant sun-shine, the thermometer was as low 
 as 46. A Hottentot came into the room where I was, 
 to say that he had brought oxen from the next boor's 
 to draw our waggons there, in order to ease our own. 
 He answered several questions concerning God and 
 the Saviour, which Mr. Kicherer asked him, and said 
 he prayed every day for the forgiveness of his sins, 
 and that sin might be put out from his heart. The 
 slaves at Mr. Burchar's asked and obtained liberty 
 to follow us to the next boor's place to hear the 
 gospel.
 
 MAY.] JOURNEY IN SNEUBERG. 177 
 
 At three, P.M. we left Mr, Burctiar's Place in his 
 horse vvaggon. In a narrow pass, between hills, we 
 observed stones so regularly piled one above another, 
 and so arranged that they resembled ruins of some 
 ancient structure. There we cauglit a large land tor- 
 toise that was creeping among the bushes. Before sun- 
 set we arrived at Three Fountains, where Mr. Kicherer 
 preached in the evening. 
 
 ]5th. In the morning I took a walk to the top of 
 some hills to have a view of the surrounding country. 
 The broad summit of one was spread over with large 
 flat stones. There was a little cultivation near the 
 boors house, but the surrounding country, as far as 
 could be seen from the hills, was extremely barren, 
 producing nothing but heath or wild bushes. The slaves 
 who had followed us from Mr. Burchar's took leave to 
 go home, although their countenances expressed a 
 desire to follow us farther. About three, P.M. we 
 left Three Fountains in the boor's waggon, drawn by 
 eight excellent horses, and travelled at the rate of 
 seven miles an hour. Reachins; the summit of some 
 rising ground, an extensive plain presented itself before 
 us, studded with many small hills of interesting shapes, 
 which had a pleasing effect. Though not an inch of 
 cultivation was visible, yet the scenery w-as cheering. 
 At five, P.M. we arrived at Mr. Vanderkervel's Place,- 
 which was pleasantly situated. Immediately to the 
 right of the house was a most romantic excavation of 
 the earth, from two to three hundred yards wide, a 
 hundred feet deep, and half a mile long : both sides 
 
 A a
 
 178 JOURNEY IN SNEUBERG. [1813, 
 
 were composed of huge rocky clift's ; the lower part of 
 the hollow was covered with gardens and fields, where 
 the orange trees grew luxuriantly ; and in the middle a 
 river glided gently along. In the evening I preached to 
 the people through my usual interpreters. 
 
 l6th. In the morning, being the Lord's day, Mr. 
 K. preached to the white people in the house, while 
 Mr. R. preached without, at our waggons, to slaves, 
 Hottentots, and Bushmen. Some of our Hottentots 
 were very active in doing good here, and at other 
 places, to the slaves and to their brethren. In the 
 evening Mr. R. preached again at the waggons. On 
 finishing his discourse, he asked Cupido and Boosak 
 (converted Hottentots) to speak to the people if they 
 were so inclined. Both addressed the heathen. Boosak 
 said to them, " Before the missionaries came to us, 
 we were as ignorant of every thing as you are now. I 
 thought then I was the same as a beast; that when I 
 died there would be an end of me : but after hearing 
 them I found I had a soul that must be happy or 
 miserable for ever. Then I became afraid to die. I 
 was afraid to take a gun into my hand lest it should 
 kill me, or to meet a serpent lest it should bite me. I 
 was afraid then to go to the hills to hunt lions or 
 elephants, lest they should devour me. But when I 
 heard of the Son of God having come into the world 
 to die for sinners, all that fear went away. I took my 
 gun again, and without fear of death went to hunt 
 lions and tygers, and elephants. You shall soon have 
 an opportunity to be taught the same things."
 
 MAY.] JOURNEY IN SNEUBERG. 179 
 
 17th. I went in the morning, with ten or twelve of 
 our people, to examine a cave in the deep excavation, 
 which turned out to be a far more formidable adven- 
 ture than I had expected. It was on the side of a high 
 cliftj separated from an opposite clift' equally hicrh, 
 only by a few yards. For about two hundred yards 
 we had to walk on projecting rocks near the middle 
 of the opposite cliff. We were soon obliged to take off 
 our shoes lest we should slide down the rocks, and 
 advancing a few yards farther we were advised to take 
 off our stockings, as more likely to prevent our sliding 
 down. When we came opposite to the cave, with 
 great caution we descended to the bottom of the cliff; 
 then two of our Hottentots went into a pool formed 
 by the river, on purpose to sound it, as we had to 
 cross it to reach the cave. They found it two feet 
 and a half deep, till within two yards of the other side, 
 over which they placed a ladder they had brouo^ht 
 with them. Michal mounted first, who when climbing 
 the rock slipped, and rolled down into the water, com- 
 pletely over the head, which appeared to the other 
 Hottentots a mere trifle, for they only smiled about 
 half a minute, and pressed forward. A friend from 
 Graaf Reynet, who was tall and strong, carried me 
 over on his back. It was no easy matter to climb up 
 to the cave's mouth, from the steepness and smooth- 
 ness of the rock. A light being struck, we ventured in 
 with three candles. On the roof of the cave, which 
 resembled that of a cathedral in miniature, hun^ hun- 
 dreds of bats fast asleep. Our lights awoke many of 
 them; and they flew about us to the no small danger 
 
 A a 2
 
 180 JOURNEY IN SNEUBERG. [1813. 
 
 of extinguishing our lights. Within the cave we sunk 
 half way up the leg into their dung, which probably has 
 been collecting for many centuries. The bats hang by 
 their feet so close together, that at first sight it appeared 
 to be carved work on the roof. After viewing different 
 apartments in the cave, vihich appeared singularly 
 gloomy and dismal, we found considerable difficulty in 
 returning. 
 
 On arriving at Mr. Vanderkervel's, they brought to 
 me four Bushwomen and five or six Hottentot women, 
 covered only with sheep skins carelessly thrown over 
 their shoulders. I addressed them by means of Mr. 
 Kicherer, and a Hottentot girl who understood both 
 Dutch and the Bushmens language. None of them 
 seemed to know any thing of God, except one woman, 
 who said her grandfather had told her there was a 
 God, or Great Master. They appeared much pleased 
 to hear that they were soon to be taught the same 
 things that white people know. They shewed me 
 a Bushman's boy, who they said when first brought 
 there was as wild as a lion, and would bite any 
 thing that came near him; no doubt from the hor- 
 ror he felt at being brought amongst white people, 
 of whose murders of his forefathers he perhaps had 
 often heard. 
 
 About noon we departed in a waggon with six 
 horses, our own ox Maggons having gone on before, 
 and halted at one, P.M. at the place of Nicholas 
 Vanderkervel. A Bush woman about sixty years of
 
 MA\'.] JOURNEY IN SNEUBERG. 181 
 
 age, who only measures three feet nine inches, was in- 
 troduced to us. She knew no more about God than 
 the very cattle, although she lived amongst white peo- 
 ple; yet she expressed satisfaction on hearing that 
 missionaries would come soon to instruct her and her 
 people. There were some other persons younger, but 
 equally ignorant. 
 
 On travelling a little farther we came to M. Pinnar's 
 place, which, though not at the utmost boundary of 
 the colony, is the last habitation of white men. In 
 conversation with some Hottentots by means of an 
 interpreter, I observed one man smile, as if much 
 pleased, when he heard that people were coming from 
 a far country to instruct them. I could not but hope 
 that Jesus had thoughts of mercy toward this man. I 
 visited a small reed hut, which stood at the foot of a 
 hill behind the boor's house, in which an old blind 
 Bushman lived. We found him asleep in a sheep 
 skin, which was his only dress; indeed there was not 
 another article within his hut. When he awoke he 
 slowly sat up ; and, from the blackness of his skin, his 
 long beard, and probably not having smiled for many 
 years, he had an uncommonly grave and peculiar ap- 
 pearance. A friend from Graaf Reynet was my 
 Dutch interpreter, and a Hottentot girl about twelve 
 years of age, interpreted into the Bushmen's language, 
 kneeling on the ground, with her black sheep skin 
 thrown over her shoulders, and her clasped hands 
 under her chin. She spake to the old man what she 
 was desired, with a gravity that astonished me. It was
 
 182 JOURNEY IN SNEUBERG. [1813. 
 
 SO simple and so singular, that it could not easily be 
 imitated. The whole scene would have merited the 
 pencil of a Raphael to paint it. A small group of 
 children stared into the hut. The poor man knew 
 nothing ; and when the girl told him that an institution 
 was soon to be established to teach him and others 
 the things of God, which would make them happy, he 
 made no verbal answer, but he intimated, in a very 
 significant manner, that he understood what she told 
 him, but that the report coming from white people, he 
 would not believe it till it took place. 
 
 The master of the house, a young man, had his hand 
 lately shot off by a musket ; another young man, who 
 appeared to be his brother, had his leg broken lately 
 by a fall from his horse ; and the mistress had been 
 confined only four days. The family were very friendly 
 to us. After halting about an hour we proceeded on 
 our journey, and a second time left behind us the 
 habitations of civilized men. The country is covered 
 with heath; only here and there, at great distances 
 from each other, is there any grass. 
 
 A little after sun-set, by means of our friend's strong 
 oxen, we reached a fountain where our waggons had 
 hailed for some time ; these soon went forward, and 
 we followed in about an hour. At eight, P.M. we 
 came up to them, and travelled together for some 
 time, when we again left them and pushed forward, 
 accompanied by ten armed horsemen, boors and their 
 slaves. At nine, P.M. we halted among low hills,
 
 MAY.] JOURNEY IN SNEUBEUG. 183 
 
 where there was grass. Our tent was erected, a fire 
 lighted, and coffee prepared by the time the other 
 waggons arrived. The boors remarked that the place 
 should be called Lions' Valley, because they greatly 
 abound there. We had much lightning and a little 
 thunder, after which followed abundance of rain. 
 
 1 8th. The rain continued to fall during the whole 
 night, and this day till three, P.M. when it abated, and 
 I ascended to the summit of a low hill to view the 
 surrounding country. When on the hill two of the 
 boors, Mr. Kicherer, and an armed Hottentot, came 
 to inform me it was dangerous to walk alone in such 
 places, as Bushmen might be concealed among the 
 rocks. I was not aware of this, and thanked them for 
 their attention to my safety. It being impossible to 
 reach the next fountain before night, we resolved to 
 postpone our departure until the morrow. We now 
 commenced keeping watch during the night, immedi- 
 ately after sun-set. I observed that the Hottentots 
 watched chiefly on the lee side of the waggons ; the 
 reason for which I understood to be, that a lion or a 
 Bushman never makes an attack from the windward 
 side, because then the dogs soon smell them, and 
 give the alarm. The night was cold and the ground 
 damp. 
 
 19th. After prayer for protection we again pro- 
 ceeded on our journey at seven, A.M. having now no 
 road. We crossed a valley covered with heath, in 
 which we observed the footmarks of a company of
 
 184. JOURNEY IN SNEUBERG. [1813, 
 
 lions that had passed that morning. At ten, A.M. we 
 entered a pass between hills, which Mr. Kicherer and 
 friends were pleased to name Campbell's Pass. In 
 consequence of the late rains, the boors said the 
 naarks of our waggon wheels would be visible for four 
 years : as we were thus commencing a path which 
 perhaps may be travelled for hundreds of years to 
 come, we endeavoured to proceed in the most level 
 and direct way we could. When our people who were 
 mounted were chasing some quachas, a fat and fatigued 
 one fell behind his companions, which was soon sur- 
 rounded by our horsemen, and brought with them to 
 the waggons. 
 
 When we approached the fountain we had come 
 to examine, respecting its suitableness for a missionary 
 station, two of our horsemen came hastily towards our 
 waggons, on which the driver of our waggon said, they 
 had seen a lion : we inquired how he knew it ; he said 
 he knew it by their faces. But, like all other Hotten- 
 tots, he had good eyes, for not one of us could at that 
 distance distinguish one feature in their countenances. 
 On reaching us they informed us that two lions were 
 crouching among the reeds below. All the waggons 
 drew up on an ascent immediately opposite the place 
 where they lay ; and the wheels were chained, lest the 
 roaring or appearing of the lions should terrify the 
 oxen and make them run off, which frequently hap- 
 pens on such occasions. Thirteen men then drew up 
 about fifty yards from the lions, with their loaded 
 muskets, and we who were only to be spectators stood
 
 MAY.] JOURNEY IN SNEUBERG. 185 
 
 upon a heap of rocks about fifty yards behind them, 
 guarded by three armed men, lest the lions should 
 either not be wounded, or only slightly, and rush upon 
 us. When all was in readiness, tlie men below poured 
 a volley of shot towards the lions, when one of them, 
 the male, made off, seemingly wounded slightly ; but 
 the other was disabled, so that it remained. The dogs 
 ran towards her, making a great noise, but ventured 
 no nearer than within five or six yards. On the second 
 fire she was shot dead. She was a large and fat 
 lioness, with a furious countenance. She was dragged 
 from the reeds while yet warm, and skinned directly. 
 A bullet was found under the skin, within a few inches 
 of the tail, which she must have received long ago, 
 as the wound was healed. She had received many 
 wounds from our people, particularly a severe one in 
 the inside of her mouth. 
 
 We halted at Buck's Fountain, which was only a 
 few hundred yards beyond where we had killed the 
 lioness ; this was the place we had come purposely to 
 examine, but we found only a small stream, insufficient 
 to water much ground. Having heard d)f a much 
 greater stream being at Rhinoceros Berg, about a 
 week's journey distant, in a different direction from 
 our route, Mr. Kicherer and the boors who v ere with 
 us, kindly offered to visit it for us, and to write their 
 opinion of it to Cape-town. 
 
 During supper, while talking of the feats of lions 
 and lion hunters, we heard a lion roaring at some 
 
 B b
 
 186 JOURNEY IN SNEUBERG. [1813. 
 
 distance, and a little after the roar was heard from no 
 great distance behind our tent, which probably was the 
 male lion come in search of his mate. If he found her 
 carcase, the boors said he would eat it ; and asserted, 
 (what is very horrid,) that the bushmen often threw 
 their children to the lion to preserve themselves, which 
 has greatly encreased the desire of these animals after 
 human flesh, especially the flesh of bushmen; so much 
 so, that were a lion to find a white man and a bush- 
 man asleep together, he would take the bushman and 
 leave the white man. At present these ferocious ani- 
 mals are said to kill more bushmen than sheep. 
 
 A lion, one day, seized a Hottentot by the arm, 
 but the Hottentot's dog getting hold of the lion by 
 his leg, he let go the Hottentot, lo drive away the 
 dog, by which means the Hottentot escaped the jaws 
 of death. When a lion overcomes an ox, he carries 
 him off" on his back, but a sheep in his mouth, which 
 of course may be accounted for by the difference in 
 the weight of the two animals. Mr. Kicherer men- 
 tioned, that when his sexton and his wife were asleep 
 under their waggon, and their little dog at their feet, 
 a lion came and carried off" the dog without injuring 
 them. It was long after we had kifled the lioness 
 before we missed the quacha which had been brought 
 to our waggons alive; but while our attention had 
 been occupied by the lion, the quacha was neglected, 
 and made its escape, so that the death of the lioness 
 saved its life.
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 JOURNEY ACROSS THE BUSHMEN'S COUNTRY. 
 
 May 20. 
 
 JNI OW we were to part from our friends who had 
 accompanied us ten days. Mr. Kicherer preached to 
 us in the morning ; we then partook of an early dinner; 
 after which we united in prayer to God, commending 
 each other into his hands, and after saluting one an- 
 other, we separated in silence, perhaps to see each 
 other no more until the judgment of the great day. 
 We then entered the Bushmen's country, now and 
 then casting a look after the dear friends we had left 
 behind. We travelled across a plain until the setting 
 of the sun, when we came to water that had been 
 collected in holes during the late rain. Some of our 
 stragglers brought to us three young Bushmen, whom 
 they had met on a journey. They possessed more 
 lively and interesting countenances than the Hotten- 
 tots. Their father, an old man, they said was lodging 
 in a hole among the rocks at a little distance. We 
 informed them we had come from a distant country, 
 had taught the Hottentots many good things, and 
 designed also to send teachers to their nation. They 
 said they were glad to hear it; and one of them offered
 
 188 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 to accompany us on our journey to the Great River. 
 The other two went off w ith the food we had given 
 them for their father ; they carried along with them 
 pieces of hghted wood to frighten away hons. Travelled 
 
 N.E. by N. 
 
 21st. The frost was so keen during the night, that 
 water in the bottom of a large dish which stood in the 
 open air was completely frozen. The Bushman's 
 family came to us at eight in the morning, consisting 
 of the father, his two sons, with the wife of one 
 carrying a child about ten months old. When we 
 •went to prayer, (the nature of which had been ex- 
 plained to them,) they lay prostrate on the ground, in 
 imitation of our Hottentots. The woman had rather 
 an interesting appearance ; her eyes indicated natural 
 talent, and her child looked well, notwithstanding its 
 copper colour. She gave me three rings, made of cord, 
 which her child wore on its arm, and I presented her 
 "with some beads to put in their place. The child wore 
 nothing more than a few strings of hemes, as substi- 
 tutes for beads, interspersed with circular pieces of 
 the ostrich egg. When preparing to shave, I held my 
 looking-glass before each of them. All expressed as- 
 tonishment at beholding their faces, which they knew 
 to be their own, by opening their mouths wide, and 
 holding out their tongues, which they perceived to be 
 done at the same time by the figure in the glass. They 
 all turned away their heads, and held up their hands 
 before their mouths when they first saw themselves, as 
 if disgusted with the sight. The woman, in order to
 
 MAY.] BUSHMEN'S COUNTRY. 189 
 
 be quite certain that it was herself she saw in the 
 glass, turned round her babe that was tied to her 
 back, and on seeing it also, she seemed satisfied. 
 They were clothed in sheepskins. At ten A.M. two 
 lions appeared at a little distance, which were first 
 noticed by the Bushmen, who are much afraid of 
 them ; we dispatched a party to drive them away, 
 which they effected. They told us that some time ago, 
 a lion came and dragged a man out of his house, and 
 then devoured him. 
 
 These strangers sat the whole time they were with 
 us, without once rising. They were employed in cook- 
 ing and eating meat till we separated. Our Hottentots 
 remarked, that Bushmen would eat constantly for 
 three days, and then fast three days. When our 
 waggons set off, the young man rose up from the fire 
 around which his friends were sitting, without taking 
 the smallest notice of them, or bidding them farewell ; 
 indeed, one would have thought by the manner of his 
 departure, that he intended to return in five minutes. 
 I did not think he was gone till one of our people told 
 me he was in the first waggon that had moved. Before 
 parting, I took their child in my arms for some time, 
 stroked it and restored it to the rightful owner. Not 
 one of them had a name except the father, whom they 
 called Old Boy in their language. I advised the 
 woman to wash her face, which was extremely dirty ; 
 but by a significant shake of her head, she expressed 
 aversion to such an operation ; upon which our Hot- 
 tentots by way of apology for her, said, that Bushmen
 
 190 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 thought dirt upon their skin kept them warm. Each 
 of them had a jackal's tail fixed on a stick to wipe the 
 sweat from their faces in hot weather. They had also 
 a quiver of poisoned arrows. They had left the old 
 woman, the mother, in the cave where they had slept 
 during the night. They had been visiting a distant 
 kraal, and were returning to their own. When we 
 had advanced a few miles, I learned that the young man 
 who accompanied us had a wife and child at home. 
 Thermometer at noon, 58. 
 
 This season may be called the Bushman's harvest, 
 for the ground being softened by the rain, they can 
 easily pull up roots not only for present consumption, 
 but if they choose for future use also. In summer 
 they are supplied with locusts, which they dry and 
 pound into powder, which serves as a substitute for 
 flour. 
 
 Our being accompanied by the young Bushman 
 appeared to be a singular favour from providence, 
 for had he not been with us, it is probable we should 
 neither have found grass, nor water, nor wood for fire at 
 night. We had not seen a blade of grass during the first 
 day's journey ; but a little after sun-set he led us out of 
 our track, up a narrow pass between two hills on our 
 right, to a small sequestered valley, where there was a 
 fountain, grass, and abundance of fire-wood. I looked 
 to him, as Elijah may be supposed to have looked to 
 the ravens that fed him in the wilderness, as God's 
 instrument for fulfilling his gracious will to us, in
 
 MAY.] BUSHMEN'S COUNTRY. 191 
 
 answer to the prayers of distant friends. He was cheer- 
 ful and happy, appearing to consider himself perfectly 
 safe with us, which is wonderful, considering how 
 cruelly his nation has in former times been treated by 
 the colonists. We soon made a large fire of the tur- 
 pentine plant, which afforded both light and heat. 
 The night was so cold, that while writing in the 
 tent, I was obliged to have a hot stone under my feet. 
 About ten P.M. a wolf came to see what he could 
 make of us, but our fires and the barking of our dogs 
 obliged him to keep his distance. 
 
 22d. At sun-rise the thermometer was 32. We 
 named our fountain, Hardcastle Fountain. I over- 
 heard some of our Hottentots telling the young Bush- 
 man what things he was likely to get when he should 
 arrive at Cape -town. They told him that probably 
 he would get a looking-glasg to see himself in, like 
 that which I had held before his face : but turning 
 round his head, he said he did not like it — like 
 thousands who refuse to see their own character de- 
 picted in Scripture, turning from it with disgust. 
 Mr. R. sowed some peach seeds, and I some orange 
 seeds, near the fountain, which, if they come to per- 
 fection, may furnish the natives with food. The 
 passage leading from Hardcasde Fountain points 
 nearly north ; having Kombuis Mountain in full view, 
 at the distance of seven or eight miles. 
 
 We departed at noon, when the thermometer was 
 62. The first half of our journey lay N.E. and
 
 192 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 the last half N. and generally over rising ground : 
 the earth was red, and for the most part covered 
 with tall heath. In the evening, Mr. Read and I, 
 with three armed Hottentots and the Bushman, walked 
 considerably a head of the waggons, in search of 
 water; he told us there was no fountain in that part; 
 but in consequence of the late rain, holes near the 
 foot of the hills were likely to be full of water. When 
 it was dark, we heard a Hottentot call out, water ! 
 from a distance, but could not ascertain from what 
 direction the voice came. Oh ! said one of the Hot- 
 tentots, it is this way, for that carane (a fowl) we 
 heard, has just risen from water ; and so we found it, 
 but there was not a blade of grass for the poor cattle, 
 only heath bushes. We observed a Bushman's fire 
 lighted up about twelve miles off, upon the hills. A 
 short time after our fire was lighted, our three horse- 
 men arrived with a young elk they had caught, 
 which was about the size of a large calf. It was 
 immediately killed for the next day's provision. They 
 saw five lions in company, when they were chasing 
 a flock of elks, and the lions followed the example 
 of the elks, in running away ; I did not hear of the 
 men pursuing them, but suppose they took to their 
 heels also, so that they were all fleeing from each 
 other. 
 
 23d. At seven A.M. at the prayer meeting, three 
 Hottentots engaged in prayer ; and at eight we were 
 obliged to move forward in quest of grass for the 
 cattle. At starting, we roused from sleep a wild cat^
 
 MAY.] BUSHMEN'S COUNTRY. 193 
 
 which our dogs pursued without success. Though 
 there was no grass, yet there was plenty of the bush- 
 nians plant on the way. It is a bulbous root, about 
 the size of a crocus, and resembling it in appearance ; 
 when roasted, it tastes like the roasted chesnut. By 
 the bushmen it is called Ok ; by the Hottentots, Ozv. 
 I partook of some which our bushman had roasted, 
 and Uked them very much. 
 
 This part of Africa, without a miracle, must, for 
 want of water, remain a wilderness to the end of 
 time ; it cannot be inhabited, though its general ap- 
 pearance is charming. . 
 
 At ten A.M. we came to a narrow path made by 
 quachas, who travel, as wild ducks fly, in a line, 
 one behind the other. We hoped this path would 
 lead us to a fountain, but in less than a mile it became 
 invisible. 
 
 For the last three days we had been gradually 
 ascending, but we appeared now to have reached the 
 summit, from which there is a very extensive pro- 
 spect, for at least sixty miles before us, and we judged 
 it likely that we should continue to descend until we 
 reached the Great River. Thermometer at noon was 
 68 ; at one P.iM. it rose to 80 ; and at two, it was 8o. 
 Pretty well in the middle of an African winter ! 
 
 Our bushman was generally asleep after joining us, 
 except when eating ; but he was now running with 
 
 c c
 
 191 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [i813. 
 
 remarkable speed after our advanced party, to point 
 towards water. He knew nothing about the finding of 
 grass, as that is no concern of bushmen, who possess 
 no cattle. A group of thirteen hills were in sight, all 
 shaped like a sugar loaf, only more extended at the 
 base. The smell arising from the bushes crushed down 
 by our w-aggon wheels resembled that of an Apothe- 
 cary's shop. Much did I feel for our oxen, who had 
 fasted nearly two days for want of grass, but at three 
 P.M. our hopes of relief were raised, by observing 
 smoke rise at a distance, as a signal from our horsemen, 
 that water was found. It was near a chain of hills 
 due N. of us. At four P.M. some of us reached 
 the spot on foot, where we found plenty of grass and 
 water — a gratifying sight indeed! On the arrival of 
 the oxen, it was pleasant to see them running to grass 
 and water, after fasting so long. Observing four lions, 
 a little to the eastward, we sent eleven men to en- 
 deavour to drive them away, to prevent their disturbing 
 us in the night time, which they effected. Except the 
 four lions, we saw neither beasts nor birds during the 
 day. It appeared to be a land forsaken by every 
 creature from the scarcity of water. The appearance 
 of the country, however, is charming ; the extensive 
 plains are interspersed with hills of various but beau- 
 tiful forms. The weather, though winter, was delightful. 
 
 In the evening I asked our young bushman to come 
 into the tent, with his interpreter, to have some con- 
 versation with him. I inquired what he thought to be 
 the worst thing a man could do ? It was sometime
 
 MAY.] BUSHMEN'S COUNTRY. 195 
 
 before we could make him understand the meaning of 
 a bad thing, for he had never heard that one thing was 
 worse than another. When he appeared to form some 
 idea of the meaning of bad, I asked what he thought 
 was the worst thing he had ever seen done in his 
 kraal. He said they often quarrelled, and when 
 any of these quarrels ended in killing one another, 
 it was fine, good sport; it shewed courage. He 
 said all their quarrels were about their wives : one 
 was for having the other's wife, which he did not think 
 was bad. Being asked if he would consider it bad if 
 any in the kraal were to take his wife while he was 
 with us, he answered, Bad, bad. He said it was fine 
 to take others' wives, but not fine to take his. He 
 said he never stole. He acknowledged it was bad to 
 quarrel, steal, murder, and to commit adultery. On 
 being asked which was the worst of these, he said he 
 could not tell. 
 
 I then asked him what he thought was the best thing 
 a man could do? His reply to this question was ex- 
 tremely affecting. "All my life, (said he,) I have 
 only seen evil, and never any good, wherefore I can- 
 not tell what is best." The questions appeared to him, 
 however, as mere sport, for in the very midst of the 
 conversation he complained that he had a bad cap. 
 He informed us that a boor once came and attacked 
 their kraal, and they knew not why, but he and those 
 with him killed ten men, women and children, of the 
 kraal. We asked if his father had given him any good 
 advice before he left him to come with us. He replied, 
 
 c c 2
 
 196 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 " My father said I was going with strange people, and 
 must be obedient, and perhaps I should get some- 
 thing ; and while with them he should take care of my 
 wife and child, and when I got education and returned 
 I should be able to teach them." 
 
 24th. Our Bushman was in the habit of smoking 
 wild hemp, which stupifies and constantly inclines to 
 sleep. At one, we were all in motion, ascending to a 
 pass between hills, which was full of bushes and stones, 
 A plant called the Bushman's Soap was very plentiful, 
 which much resembles the ice plant; the shining par- 
 ticles with which it is covered, on being touched, 
 turned out to be only small globes of water, which the 
 plant has the power of retaining. 
 
 During the day we travelled through three passes 
 among large rocks, which we found like the Scylla and 
 Charibdis of the ancients — in trying to escape one, 
 we sometimes struck against another. Our men, who 
 were in advance, saw three lions pursuing a herd of 
 quachas, who fled towards them; on seeing which, 
 our men fled also towards the waggons, followed by 
 the lions, but they did not disturb us. The one half of 
 this day's journey was N.W. by N. the other half 
 nearly E. Thermometer, at noon, 60: at three, P.M. 
 70 : at sun-set, 68. Some of our people were em- 
 ployed part of the evening in teaching the Bushman 
 the letters of the alphabet. After supper we brought 
 him into the tent, and asked him a few more questions. 
 What he thought the most wonderful thing he had
 
 MAY.] BUSHMEN'S COUNTRY. 197 
 
 ever seen ? A?is. I do not think one thing more won- 
 derful than another — all the beasts are fine. Q. If he 
 could get any thing he wished, what would he desire 
 to have? j4?i6: I would have plenty of beads, knives, 
 tinder-boxes, cattle, and sheep. Q. What other 
 countries had he heard of? Jns. I have heard of the 
 Caffres, Dutch, and English, but I have not seen 
 any English. Q. What kind of food he would like 
 best to have every day ? A7is. Bread and sheep's 
 flesh. 
 
 25th. There was ice on the water in the morning 
 about the thickness of a dollar. Thermometer, at sun- 
 rise, 40: at noon, 70. About two, P.M. we came to 
 the edge of an extensive plain, perhaps an hundred 
 miles in circumference, having a considerable lake at 
 the west end of it. This lake, which perhaps no 
 European ever saw before, we named Burder's Lake, 
 after the Secretary to the Missionary Society. There 
 is perhaps no extent of country known in the world, 
 favoured with so few lakes as those parts of Africa. 
 Although I had now travelled five months in South 
 Africa, this was the first I had seen which deserved 
 the name of a lake; two others, in Albany, are only 
 large pools. It being too early in the day to halt, we 
 passed to the right of it. We found the whole of 
 Burder's Plain, especially in the vicinity of the lake, 
 abounding with game, and particularly with various 
 kinds of bucks. We shot nine bucks, one quacha, and 
 one ostrich. The quacha was only wounded, and 
 ran lame. Our Bushman, who was extremely fond of
 
 198 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [18 1 3. 
 
 that creature's flesh, though a species of horse, on 
 observing it to be lame, leaped from the waggon, 
 threw off his sheep's skin, ran towards it, and with 
 great exertion threw a stone which sunk into its fore- 
 head; on which he drew out his knife and stabbed it. 
 When dead he cut out a large slice from its loins with 
 the skin upon it, and deposited it in the waggon, where 
 we permitted him to sleep during the day. He like- 
 wise carried off the tail with him. 
 
 We travelled forward among low bushes till seven 
 o'clock in the evening, in search of grass and water, 
 without finding either, and were obliged to halt in 
 consequence of the darkness ; of course our tired oxen 
 were obliged to go to sleep without food or drink. At 
 supper we found there was not a drop of water re- 
 maining in our casks, all having been consumed by 
 our men, who came in weary from hunting. Mr. Read 
 and myself were of opinion not to advise any other 
 traveller to cross the Bushman country by the route 
 we had chosen, but to enter more to the eastward ; 
 for had it not been for a providential fall of rain, ten 
 days before, we should only have had water twice 
 during seven days, viz. at Hardcastle's Fountain and 
 at Burder's Lake ; and the first of these we should 
 not have discovered but for the young Bushman who 
 accompanied us, without whose assistance we might not 
 have been able to discover the holes which catch the rain. 
 
 26th. Departed before sun-rise, in search of grass 
 and water, when the thermometer was at 45. We had
 
 WAY.] BUSHMEN'S COUNTRY. 199 
 
 not travelled more than a few hundred yards, when, 
 to our surprise and joy, we reached the Brak river. 
 This river seldom runs, except after great rains ; at 
 other times it consists of a chain of small pools in the 
 bed of the river, containing good water ; though in the 
 summer, when the quantity must be greatly reduced 
 by absorption and exhalation, it probably is all brack- 
 ish, as the ground contains much saltpetre. We tra- 
 velled along the side of these pools until nine, A.M. 
 when we halted to refresh our oxen in a narrow valley. 
 Here we remained until two, P.M. when we were 
 again in motion. On clearing this small valley, 
 bounded by rising ground, we entered a plain, con- 
 taining here and there some small hills. On advancing 
 about a mile, we observed smoke on one of the hills 
 to our left, which our Hottentots said was a signal 
 from some of our people that they had shot an elk, 
 and wanted our assistance to carry it off. Accordingly 
 we ascended with our waggons towards the place from 
 whence the smoke proceeded. While doing so our 
 Bushman left us unobserved. Our Hottentots con- 
 jectured that he had supposed we were boors, and that 
 we meant now to attack a kraal of his countrymen to 
 murder and to take prisoners, and had therefore fled, 
 leavincr behind him his bow and arrows. On travelling 
 about two miles we found an elk had been killed 
 and cut up, with which we loaded our waggons, and 
 were obliged to leave part behind for the wild beasts. 
 Four black-and-white crows followed us for a week, 
 to pick up any thing we might leave behind at our 
 halting places.
 
 200 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 We halted a little before sun-set. As soon as it 
 was dark, a fire was made on the top of a neighbour- 
 ing hill, as a signal to inform our Bushman where we 
 were, should he be desirous of returning. We ob- 
 served some signs of Bushmen having been here 
 lately, by their foot-marks, a little platted hair, and 
 a piece of stick newly peeled. As we had not seen a 
 living soul since the first day we entered the country, 
 we all narrowly inspected these indications of inhabit- 
 ants, and formed various conjectures. None of us 
 doubted that the Bushmen were watching our motions 
 from the neighbouring mountains, with the view of 
 attacking us, should a favourable opportunity offer 
 itself. The river, as far as we observed it, runs in a 
 N.W. direction. 
 
 27th. During the night our sheep fled from our 
 waggons with great precipitation, and though all our 
 people went in pursuit of them, it was long before 
 they were found. Their fright and flight were proba- 
 bly owing to the appearance of a lion or wolf. We 
 departed about sun-rise, but in less than an hour were 
 obliged, on account of the rain, to halt, as the oxen 
 cannot travel in it, their shoulders being soon galled 
 by the yoke. Had we been in Caffraria, we should 
 have been most exposed to an attack during rain, 
 because the CafFres know that wet and damp weather 
 affects powder, but does no injury to their assagays or 
 spears ; but in such weather Bushmen can do nothing, 
 as their bow-strings are made of the entrails of animals,
 
 MAT.] BUSHMEN'S COUNTRY. 201 
 
 and consequently stretch and break. Thermometer 
 at noon, 50. 
 
 About one P.M. the rain ceasing, we again pro- 
 ceeded on our journey, and in half an hour came to 
 an opening in the hills which led to what we named 
 Wilks's Plain. To view it in every direction was fati- 
 guing to the eye, as nothing was visible but short 
 bushes of a dull black hue, it being winter. We 
 traced the bed of the Brak River in a N.W. direction 
 till the evening, when we halted near a little water. 
 
 28th. The night was extremely cold, when I found 
 my sheepskin covering a great protection. In the 
 morning we had several hail showers. At eight A.M. 
 we dispatched our interpreter and a Hottentot to visit 
 a kraal of bushmen who were reported to live about 
 ten miles off, to inform them of our design to be 
 there in the afternoon, and to induce them to prevail 
 on their chief to come and meet us. They returned 
 with the information that the kraal was deserted, and 
 having seen no person they could not learn where they 
 were gone. 
 
 I have observed three different methods which our 
 Hottentot servants have of baking bread. 1. They 
 place the loaf on a gridiron over the fire. 2. They 
 cover the loaf with hot ashes. 3. After sweeping the 
 ground upon which a fire has been for some time, 
 they place the loaf there, and cover it with a pot 
 
 D d
 
 202 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 which they surround with fire. Perhaps the last 
 is the best of the three methods. Thermometer at 
 noon, 44. 
 
 We continually met with a species of grass which 
 is very troublesome. If it even attach itself to the 
 outside of the great coat, the seeds will work their 
 way to the skin, which produces much uneasiness. 
 Our clothes required to be cleared of these visitors 
 after every walk, or we suffered by the neglect. 
 
 During the day our waggons had several narrow 
 escapes from falling into pits made by the bushmen 
 for catching beasts. They are five or six feet deep ; 
 at the bottom of which is stuck a poisoned stake, and 
 the mouth is concealed by a slight covering of branches 
 strewed over with grass, that the unsuspecting creature 
 walking over, may sink down and be taken. Those 
 we passed were old ones. 
 
 At the place at which we arrived about sun-set, the 
 Brak River ceased to have a bed ; the ground being 
 flat, it must form itself in the rainy season into an 
 extensive lake, as is evident from the absence of 
 bushes on the ground, and the kind of grass which 
 covers it, which at this season, being withered, has 
 much the appearance of a corn field in autumn. The 
 sun was set before we could reach any water, which 
 obliged us to stop, lest in the dark we should fall 
 into some of the pits.
 
 MAY.] BUSHMEN'S COUNTRY. 20S 
 
 29th. Departed about sun-rise in search of water. 
 Thermometer 42. In about an hour we came to a 
 little water in a hole, at which we unyoked the oxen 
 to let them drink, which they did eagerly, and nearly 
 emptied it. At ten A.M. we arrived at plenty of 
 water, left by the last rain which happened two days 
 before. Indeed, but for that shower, we must have 
 been without a drop of water. In this God had 
 evidently been working in our favour. Mr. Read 
 having offered to be my interpreter, at our morning 
 worship, I gave the exhortation from 1 Thess. i. 8 — 10, 
 applying the words to the believers at Bethelsdorp. 
 I smiled at the remark of one of our Hottentots, 
 (Boozak,) after all was over. " The truths from that 
 passage, (said he,) have made me as light as a feather." 
 Thermometer at noon, 56. 
 
 At two o'clock we were again moving forward, 
 westerly, over a flat country, with hills in various 
 directions at a distance : the soil was red clay, and 
 covered with bushes. Several of us walked a head in 
 search of water until it was dark ; but recollecting 
 that none of us had a musket, and that consequently 
 we should be defenceless if attacked by a lion, tyger, 
 or any other animal, we judged it best to halt for the 
 waggons. While thus waiting, we observed a fire 
 lighted up to the left, which we considered as a signal 
 from our horsemen that they had found water; and 
 on pushing to the spot through the bushes, we found 
 that they had again discovereed the Brak River, which 
 had disappeared for some time. The water we had 
 
 D d 2
 
 204 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 used for some days was no purer than the thickest 
 soap suds, but what we had now to use was still 
 thicker. 
 
 Our two Hottentots who belonged to the Zak River 
 mission, mentioned another conjecture as to the reason 
 why our bushman George had so suddenly decamped. 
 Tlie bushmen in that part of the country from whence 
 he came, are always at variance with those who dwell 
 in the mountains where he left us, and often steal 
 from them. Of course when he saw us alter our 
 direction, by striking up to these mountains, in con- 
 sequence of the signal from our men that they had 
 shot an elk, from a dread that we might visit some 
 kraals there, he embraced a favourable opportunity 
 to leave us. 
 
 30th. In the morning, at sun-rise, the Thermometer 
 was 34, and ice about the thickness of a dollar was 
 on the pools. Many wild cotton trees surrounded us. 
 After Mr. Read had preached, seven of us united 
 together in the Lord's Supper : viz. Mr. Read, who 
 is pastor of the church at Bethelsdorp ; Cupido, who 
 is a deacon ; four Hottentot members, and myself. 
 We continued to observe this ordinance during the 
 remainder of our journey on the first day of the week, 
 and no doubt that was the first time it had ever been 
 celebrated in that part of Africa. Understanding that 
 we should find no more water that could be used, till 
 we should reach the Great River, between forty and 
 fifty miles distant, we went forward a few miles in the
 
 MAY.] BUSHMEN'S COUNTRY. 205 
 
 evening to enable us to reach it on the following day. 
 We halted at water as salt as the sea; and Cupido 
 preached ; after which we had much forked lightning, 
 succeeded by what resembled sheets of fire, followed 
 by thunder and rain. About nine at night the loudest 
 thunder I ever heard rolled over our heads, but our 
 people seemed not at all discomposed by it. 
 
 31st. Early in the morning I was awaked by some 
 extremely loud claps of thunder, which made either 
 myself, or the waggon in which I slept, to tremble ; 
 but after it was repeated three or four times, I fell 
 asleep again, and heard it no more. After prayer, we 
 departed before sun-rise, to push forward to water. 
 We travelled chiefly over sand and low bushes. No 
 wild beasts except two elks were seen, and only a 
 few birds. 
 
 A short time after day-light appeared, we discovered 
 the track of one or two waggons, which made me feel 
 as Robinson Crusoe did on observing the footsteps of 
 a man in the sand, on the uninhabited island of Juan 
 Fernandes. We concluded they had been waggons 
 from Klaar Water settlement, that had come to hunt 
 in the desert. We soon lost these waggon marks, 
 Avhen we travelled among long grass, which, with the 
 sand, rendered travelling very heavy and fatiguing 
 both to ourselves and oxen. At nine A.M. the plain 
 over which we had been travelling for several days 
 became narrow, the ground rising on each side. We 
 named a range of hills to the westward, Society Hills.
 
 206 JOURNEY IN THE BUSHMEN'S COUNTRY. [1813. 
 
 At ten A.M. the bushes were larger than we had been 
 accustomed to, and low trees appearing at a little 
 distance, we considered them indications of our ap- 
 proach to the Great River. We passed some wild 
 bushmen's huts formed of the branches of trees, but 
 without any inhabitant. We left the Brak River, 
 whose water continued salt, and travelled due N. 
 We proceeded over a rise of red sand and tall grass, 
 which extended about three miles ; we then passed 
 over sand mixed with stones of various kinds, many of 
 which would probably have been prized by European 
 lapidaries, a few of these I picked up. Thermometer 
 at noon, 64.
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 ARRIVAL AT THE GREAT RIVER— BERN'S KRAAL— TRA- 
 VELUNG ON BANKS OF THE GREAT RIVER— BUSHMAN 
 BAPTIZED— CROSSING RIVER. 
 
 Arriving at the summit of a long ascent, about 
 two o'clock, we had a view of the long wished for 
 river. The eyes of all were directed towards it, 
 admiring its grand and majestic appearance, and 
 expressing a strong desire to drink of its pure waters. 
 Now that we beheld this tempting object, we grudged 
 every minute which detained us from it. It might 
 already, in a certain sense, be called " a river of life ;" 
 for even the sight gave fresh strength, vigour and ani- 
 mation to every one of us. We found it farther off 
 than our wishes at first led us to conceive, for we did 
 not reach its banks till three o'clock, when every one 
 rushed towards it, and drank eagerly, till satisfied. 
 Being accustomed to thick and brackish water, we 
 extolled the purity and sweetness of the Great River 
 water. Neither the thickets with which its banks 
 were covered, nor the steepness of its sides seemed 
 any impediment to the cattle approaching it; they
 
 208 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 pushed heedlessly forward till their mouths reached it, 
 when the rapid motions of every tail indicated satis- 
 faction and enjoyment. As we had eaten nothing since 
 the preceding day, in consequence of our haste to 
 reach the river, we had no sooner satisfied our thirst 
 than we felt our hunger, and hastened to remove that 
 also. The cattle had thousands of acres of high grass 
 at hand, to which they instantly ran, on quenching 
 their thirst. 
 
 Being uncertain how far we were from our settle- 
 ment at Klaar Water, after sun-set we made a fire of 
 six or eight rotten trees where we halted, and another 
 of a similar size on a neighbouring hill, as a signal to 
 announce our arrival. The river being as broad as 
 the Thames at London bridge, being also deep and 
 rapid, the crossing with waggons appeared somewhat 
 formidable. 
 
 It is rather singular that we should have crossed the 
 Bushman's country without meeting one human being, 
 except one family on the day we entered it. That 
 even the part where we crossed has some inhabitants 
 1 have no doubt, from the remains of huts which we 
 discovered in two or three places ; but their number 
 must be very small. It fills the mind with regret to 
 see so large and beautiful a portion of God's earth so 
 destitute of population, and to think of its producing 
 year after year provender sufficient to support millions 
 of cattle, whilst only a few wild beasts roam over it.
 
 jtTNE.] BUSHMEN'S COUNTRY. 209 
 
 Many of the ways of God are inscrutable, and the 
 permission of this seems to be one of them. 
 
 June 1. This morning two Bushmen came to us, in 
 
 consequence of hearing the report of our muskets. 
 
 They engaged, for a little tobacco, to carry a letter to 
 
 Mr. Anderson, our missionary friend at Klaar Water, 
 
 (which is two days' journey beyond the Great River,) 
 
 that he and some of his friends might come to our 
 
 assistance in crossing the river. After receiving the 
 
 letter they continued waiting for some time, and we 
 
 could not conjecture the reason why they did not set 
 
 off immediately; nor could we inquire, as none of our 
 
 interpreters were at hand : at length, supposing they 
 
 expected the tobacco previously to performing the 
 
 service, we presented each of them with a piece, on 
 
 receiving which they immediately proceeded on their 
 
 journey. Thermometer at noon 66. 
 
 At two, P.M. when on the eve of departing, in 
 order to reach the ford higher up the river, the Chief 
 of a Bushman's kraal joined us to conduct us to the 
 ford. He was accompanied by nine of his people, 
 riding on oxen, and some pedestrians. The Chief wore 
 a hat, a short blue coat, and skin trowsers. The others 
 wore only a sheepskin cloak, loosely thrown over them. 
 Most of them had their faces and hair rubbed over 
 with red paint. The Chief could speak the Dutch 
 language, and once resided at the Klaar Water settle- 
 ment, which he left in order to have two wives, which 
 is not permitted at the institution. 
 
 E e
 
 210 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 We travelled along the banks of the Great River in 
 an easterly direction, among tall withered grass, in the 
 following order : 1st. Eight Bushmen riding on oxen, 
 2nd. Our baggage waggon and twelve oxen. 3rd. A 
 Bushman on oxback, and our guide on horseback. 
 4th. My waggon and ten oxen. 5th. Our flock of 
 sheep and goats. 6th. Our third waggon and ten oxen. 
 7th. The chief and his son on oxen, with two of our 
 people on horseback. 8th. Our spare oxen. 9th. Our 
 armed Hottentots, walking scattered. The whole 
 formed a curious caravan, which, had it proceeded 
 along the streets of London, would have collected a 
 crowd of spectators equal to that on His Majesty's 
 going to St. Paul's. 
 
 We arrived at a place opposite to the ford a little 
 after sun-set, when the chief rode off to his kraal, to 
 bring more of his people to attend our evening wor- 
 ship. In about an hour he returned with them. We 
 invited him to our tent, and gave him a cup of coffee, 
 which he relished. While taking it, Mr. Read asked 
 him if he knew Sneuberg, in the district of Graaf 
 Reynet, which he said he did. He then asked him 
 how long he thought we had been in travellling from 
 thence to the place where we now were. After think- 
 ing a little, he said, he supposed two months. He was 
 greatly surprised when we informed him we had only 
 taken twelve days ; for the road by which he supposed 
 we must have come was extremely circuitous : of 
 course he had no conception that he had been living 
 so near the colony.
 
 JUNE.] BUSHMEN'S COUNTRY. 211 
 
 2nd. There was an intense white frost during the 
 night, and at sun-rise the thermometer was at 36. At 
 nine, A.M. some of us walked to Bern's kraal, two 
 miles higher up the river. It stood on a barren spot, 
 all gravel, without an inch of cultivation; but the 
 scenery about the river was charming. Another part 
 of the kraal was on the front of a hill about half a mile 
 to the south. Boosak sat in the middle of a group for 
 about two hours, telling them of the true God, and 
 Jesus Christ, v>^hom he had sent into the world to 
 save sinners. The interest which a young man, who 
 sat immediately beside him, seemed to take in what 
 he said, I shall not soon forget. After it was over, 
 this young man said, " From what I have just heard, 
 I feel as if I were a new man ; as if I had entered 
 into a new life. I wonder that God has preserved me 
 from lions, tygers, and elephants, which I have en- 
 countered, that I might hear the things which I have 
 been told to-day." His eyes were constantly fixed on 
 the lips of Boosak, and a most significant smile was 
 continually on his countenance. The people expressed 
 willingness to join any mission we might establish 
 among them. They assured us that no more people 
 could live at Klaar Water than were already there, and 
 that some belonging to the settlement were obliged to 
 live as far from it as they were. 
 
 The day was oppressively hot, notwithstanding the 
 coolness of the morning. The thermometer in the 
 sun at noon was 80. Most of the kraal followed us 
 to our waggons, when Boosak addressed them again. 
 
 E e 2
 
 212 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 When sitting by myself on the bank of the Great 
 River among the trees, taking a sketch of it, two men 
 on the opposite side observed me, and called out some- 
 thing in a loud voice, but in a language I could not 
 understand. I called to them that they might know 
 I heard them. They could see me much better than 
 I could see them; for the sun shone over the hill upon 
 me, while they were in the shade. At seven in the 
 evening a large company, to be in such a wilderness, 
 attended worship; besides our own people, there 
 were about thirty Bushmen and Corannas. When 
 Mr. R. had given an address from the memorable 
 story of the jailor at Philippi, Boosak sat in the midst 
 of the strangers, and repeated to them, in the Hotten- 
 tot tongue, the substance of what had been said, with 
 many remarks of his own. He also addressed an old 
 man, who after every short sentence gave his assent, 
 or repeated it : frequently several at the same time 
 called out, aai ! or yes. The sight was strange 
 and truly interesting. They remained till near mid- 
 night; and from the number of tongues talking at 
 the same time, we could hardly hear one another in 
 the tent. 
 
 3rd. The night was cold. Thermometer at sun- 
 rise, 34- Most of the Bushmen remained all night. I 
 amused them a little by letting each see himself in a 
 looking glass, at which most of them stared with much 
 seriousness. While sitting by the river several birds 
 amused me by their notes.
 
 JUNE.] BUSHMEN'S COUNTRY. 213 
 
 4th. White frost during the night. Thermometer 
 at noon, 70. There was no appearance of help from 
 the other side: perhaps providence prevented our 
 removal for the sake of the poor kraal whom we were 
 instructing. In the evening I addressed them from 
 Eph. ii. 11. &c. Mr. R. interpreted to Bern, their 
 Chief, in Dutch ; and he repeated it in the Coranna 
 tongue, with a natural oratory extremely interesting. 
 After prayer Mr. R. said some things which Bern in- 
 terpreted : then Cupido mentioned some things to him 
 that he might tell the people. Our sheep were all 
 missing for some time ; but six of our people, who 
 went in search of them, found them, and brought 
 them back to the waggons. Some of our Hottentots 
 went across the river on purpose to try its depth, but 
 effected it with great difficulty, owing to the strength 
 of the current. However, it appeared falling, though 
 slowly. Thousands of acres of fine hay, upwards of 
 two feet long, surrounded our waggons ; but it must be 
 allowed to rot, being of little use in this forsaken land. 
 Could it be transported, free of expense, to London, 
 what a fund for doing good would it not produce ! 
 Our sheep were again missing, and were not found till 
 three hours after sun- set. 
 
 5th. Thermometer at sun-rise, 40 : at noon, 70. A 
 person arrived from Mr. Anderson with a letter ac- 
 knowledging the receipt of mine, but observing that 
 not being able to learn at what ford we were, he had 
 put off coming to us till he should obtain this informa- 
 tion from some of his people. However, a captain, or
 
 214 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 chief, connected with Klaar Water, came to the 
 other side to assist us. The kraals on this side are 
 under him : the cattle are all his property, only the 
 people have the milk for attending to them. Bern, the 
 head or chief, is his brother, and employed by him. 
 He informed us of a ford, a few days higher up the 
 river, which he was confident ^ve should be able to 
 cross without the trouble of taking our waggons to 
 pieces, and carrying them over on rafts composed of 
 trees tied together. On receiving this information, we 
 instantly began to prepare for proceeding toward it; 
 but why he concealed this information for four or five 
 days I knew not, unless to secure our company. When 
 every thing was ready for departing, except yoking the 
 oxen, we found they were missing, through the inat- 
 tention of our Hottentots, which detained us till after 
 sun-set, (five, P.M.) when we again got in motion, to 
 the great joy of our dogs, who expressed it in a very 
 diverting manner. 
 
 We stopped for some time at Bern's kraal as we 
 passed. The poor creatures expressed regret at our 
 leaving them, especially one young man, to Mr. R. 
 I visited several of their huts, in which hardly any 
 thing was to be seen but the fire ; yet they appeared 
 cheerful and contented. In one hut I observed five or 
 six young people scrambling among ashes for small 
 roots resembling the crocus, which they had roasted, 
 eating them greedily as they found them. Many of 
 the people said in Dutch, " Good night." We pro- 
 ceeded till about eight, P.M. when we halted near the
 
 JUNE.] BUSHMEN'S COUNTRY. 213 
 
 river, and found plenty of firewood. We passed a few 
 huts about seven o'clock. We observed a signal made 
 by our friends on the other side, intimating that they 
 were travelling to the eastward along with us. Such 
 an occurrence is peculiarly pleasing, after travelling so 
 many days in a desert without seeing one inhabitant. 
 
 6th. Thermometer at sun-rise, 50. Though the 
 fifth week in winter, at nine in the morning the heat 
 began to be oppressive ; the swallows and butterflies 
 were flying every where around. I observed a Bush- 
 mans pit seven or eight feet deep, near our waggons. 
 The bed of the river appears here to be about half a 
 mile wide, but seems only to be entirely covered after 
 great rains. Thermometer in the shade, at nine, A.M. 
 66 : at noon, in ditto, 76 : in the sun, 84. There 
 was much distant thunder, but we enjoyed sun-shine 
 all the day. 
 
 Pretorius, a Bushman belonging to our company, 
 who had lived a considerable time at Bethelsdorp, on 
 making a confession of his faith in Christ, was bap- 
 tized by Mr. R. in the Great River, which was a 
 solemn and affecting service. 
 
 At two, P.M. Bern drove thirty oxen across to us 
 from the other side : the stream carried them down 
 with great speed for a quarter of a mile, and all got 
 over except one which returned, and would not enter 
 the river again. Two men followed the oxen on what 
 they call a wooden horse, which is a thick branch of a
 
 216 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 tree, with a long pin stuck into it. On this they lie 
 flat, suspending their clothes on a stick, and driving 
 themselves forward by their feet, as a person swim- 
 ming. A third crossed on a real horse; for a con- 
 siderable time nothing was seen above water but their 
 heads. 
 
 7th. In the morning we found, from fresh footsteps 
 which we saw, that a lion had approached very near 
 us during the night, without doing any harm. At sun- 
 rise we proceeded along the banks of the river, tra- 
 velling over stones of all sizes until ten, A.M. when 
 we halted. On our way we observed the fresh foot- 
 steps of an uncommonly large lion, such as our new 
 friends told us abound in this quarter. One of our 
 people found three large ostrich eggs in time for din- 
 ner, one of which nearly dined four of us, and tasted 
 remarkably well. 
 
 At eleven, A.M. I was informed that three wag- 
 gons were come in sight on the other side of the river 
 to meet us, but the stream seemed to present a for- 
 midable obstacle to our union. Thermometer, at 
 noon, 84. 
 
 There is a bush abounding here, significantly named 
 Stop-a-xvhile. Its branches are full of thorns, exactly 
 the shape of a fishing hook ; so that if they catch hold 
 of your clothes as you pass, you must stop a while, 
 sometimes a long while, before you get clear of them, 
 as I frequently experienced afterwards. In clearing one
 
 JUNE.] BUSHMEN'S COUNTRY. 217 
 
 arm from it, the other is caught ; and without the 
 cautious assistance of a second person there is no 
 escaping from its hold, but by main force, and losing 
 part of your dress. 
 
 We departed at three P.M. as did the waggons on 
 the other side. About four o'clock we came to a 
 plain of great extent, indeed without any visible termi- 
 nation either to the S. or E. producing only heath, 
 intermixed with spots of tall withered grass. 
 
 There was the appearance of lime in different parts 
 we passed. The soil is red, with here and there gravel 
 mixed with stones of considerable size, which tried the 
 strength of our waggons. The primrose and several 
 flowers were in bloom. At nine P.M. we reached 
 the ford. Our friends on the other side had lighted 
 up two fires to point it out, but we had to wait for 
 day-light before we could attempt to cross it. 
 
 Some of our people who preferred travelling along 
 the side of the river to going round a mountain with 
 the waggons, fell in with five lions at different times, 
 and Mr. R. particularly was much exposed to one 
 of them, which bit and wounded one of our dogs 
 very severely, leaving the marks of its large teeth in 
 the creature's back. It suffered severely, but in about 
 a month it was completely recovered. They also shot 
 at three sea cows, but killed none, in consequence of 
 firing too early. 
 
 F f
 
 218 CROSSING THE GREAT RIVER. [1813. 
 
 8th. Now arrived the time for crossing the formi- 
 dable river. The morning was providentially fine. 
 Soon after day-break, one of our people entered the 
 river on horseback, to ascertain its depth, and got 
 across without much difticulty. Eleven Griquaas 
 returned with our Hottentot on horseback, to assist 
 us in crossing. All were employed in elevating the 
 baggage in our waggons as high as possible, by means 
 of stones and timber put under them, to prevent the 
 water reaching them. At ten A.M. every thing being 
 in readiness, we advanced twvards the river, and went 
 over in the following order : — 
 
 1st. Part of our loose oxen driven by three Hot- 
 tentots on horseback. 
 
 2d. My waggon with three mounted Griquaas on 
 each side, to prevent the oxen turning out of the 
 right way. 
 
 3d. More loose oxen driven by two mounted Gri- 
 quaas. 
 
 4th. The second waggon with two Griquaas on 
 each side. 
 
 6th. The baggage waggon with three Griquaas on 
 each side. 
 
 6th. Hottentot on horseback, carrying a parcel. 
 
 7th. Four of our dogs driven down by the current. 
 
 8th. Sheep and goats driven by three Griquaas 
 swimming on wooden horses. They also kept up the 
 heads of three goats which were bad swimmers. 
 
 9th. More oxen driven by three Griquaas on wooden 
 horses.
 
 JUNE.] CROSSING THE GREAT RIVER." 219 
 
 Nothing was now left behind but two dogs that 
 were too timid to venture over. However, in about 
 half an hour one attempted, and succeeded in reaching 
 us ; the other then threw himself into the river, and 
 was equally successful ; so that by two o'clock in the 
 afternoon all were safely arrived in Griqualand, 
 through the kindness of a gracious providence. We 
 received a hearty welcome to the country from Bern, 
 a Captain or Chief of the Griquaas, whose oxen had 
 drawn our waggons along for the last two days. 
 
 Thermometer at noon, 73. We dined on Guinea 
 fowls, shot by our people. In the evening our con- 
 gregation was much increased by the addition of the 
 Griquaas. At ten P.M. we heard the sound of a 
 waggon approaching, which we expected would bring 
 Mr. Anderson ; in twenty minutes he arrived. We 
 were glad to see our brother in so remote a region, 
 and he appeared no less pleased to meet with us. 
 After conversing till midnight we all went to rest. 
 
 Ff 2
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER — ARRIVAL AT 
 KLAAR WATER, OR GRIQUA TOWN— JOURNEY TO 
 LATTAKOO. 
 
 June 9, 1814. 
 
 j\T seven A.M. after an address by Mr. Anderson, 
 and prayer, we took leave of Bern and his people, 
 and quitted the Great River; but we had not travelled 
 above an hour when Bern's horsemen overtook us, 
 informing us that immediately on our leaving the 
 river, it began to rise, and soon became impassable ; 
 this was no doubt in consequence of great rains having 
 fallen higher up the river. This intelligence made us 
 admire the good providence of God, that brought us 
 to Read's Ford, at the proper time; for had we been 
 four and twenty hours later, we might have been 
 detained many days, (which often happens,) and our 
 provisions might have been intirely consumed. In- 
 deed, I have observed a chain of favourable providences 
 during the whole journey, which I viewed as answers 
 to the prayers of many christians in Britain, on behalf 
 of us who were travelling in the wilderness.
 
 <IIIIIIIIUI)|ltll':iilllllllll.iljlllllir 
 
 liiillliiiiiiiiiijiiiM^ 
 
 \N 
 
 X 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 I
 
 JUNE.] ARRIVAL AT KLAAR WATER. 221 
 
 At eleven A.M. we halted a little while to visit a 
 Bushman's kraal, on a rising ground, to the left of the 
 road. The people were employed by one of the 
 Griqua captains to watch his cattle, for which service 
 they are allowed to use the milk of the cows, and 
 Bushmen are generally found to be faithful herdsmen. 
 Their huts were similar to those we saw on the south 
 side of the river — low, shaped like an oven, and 
 covered with mats made of reeds. The people were 
 the picture of wretchedness, with little clothing, yet 
 they appeared cheerful. They had some fine children, 
 who wore nothing whatever except a row of beads 
 round their necks. A young woman had a long piece 
 of copper hanging from one ear, and a round piece 
 of the same metal about the size of a dollar hanging 
 from the other : another person, whom I supposed to 
 be her husband, had exactly the same. The only 
 warlike weapons which I observed, were three hand- 
 some Caflfre assagays. 
 
 At one P.M. coming to a clump of trees, we halted 
 to refresh our oxen and ourselves, but there was no 
 water ; indeed there is none from the river to Klaar 
 Water station, which is a long day's journey. At 
 ten P.M. when within half a mile of the setdement, 
 our people fired to announce our approach, and the 
 salutation was soon returned ; after which we arrived, 
 and received a cordial welcome from our friends. 
 
 10th. At eight A.M. we attended their ordinary 
 morning worship, at which two or three hundred were
 
 222 RESIDENCE AT [1813. 
 
 present. The day was spent in conversing generally 
 about missionary afiairs ; and in the evening Mr. Read 
 preached to a large congregation, who all seemed at- 
 tentive. 
 
 1 1 th. After breakfast we visited eight families who 
 lived at a little distance. In one house I noticed a 
 large Dutch quarto Bible ; and in two other houses, 
 parts of the New Testament. In one hut a black 
 girl was grinding wheat, in a manner that attracted 
 my attention. She had a large flat stone, on which she 
 laid a handful of wheat, and with a round black stone, 
 bruised about twenty grains at a time, by repeated 
 strokes. When beaten sufficiently small, she moved 
 the flour to the side, and brought forward a few grains 
 more to be beaten. I remarked that a hungry man 
 could eat faster than she could grind, which those 
 present confessed to be very possible. 
 
 We examined the fountain, or spring from whence 
 their water comes, which was abundant and well 
 tasted, but when it arrives at the village, which is only 
 about half a mile distant, it is a little brackish, owing 
 to the ground through which it runs being mixed with 
 saltpetre. Some of the people have small gardens, pro- 
 ducing pumpkins, cabbages, kidneybeans, peas, tobacco, 
 millet or Indian corn, &c. The garden belonging to 
 the missionaries is large and very productive. I have 
 not seen larger or better potatoes in Africa. The 
 plumb and peach trees are also tall and thriving, and 
 their vineyard has this year begun to yield a little
 
 jiTNE.] KLAAR WATER. 225 
 
 fruit. In the afternoon attended to the concerns of 
 the settlement. 
 
 12th. Visited the smith's shop, where some of the 
 people were at work in the best manner they could, 
 but having no one to instruct them, they are not great 
 proficients in the art. 
 
 13th. At the morning prayer meeting, Cupido 
 from Bethelsdorp, Berne the Captain, with Messrs. 
 Anderson and Read engaged in prayer. Thermometer 
 at eight A.M. 49, and ice a quarter of an inch thick 
 was in the water. While reading on a hill behind the 
 village, the bell rang for worship, the sound of which 
 among the hills at once strongly brought to my recol- 
 lection the country now very far distant, where I spent 
 my earliest years. After Mr. Read had preached, we 
 partook together of the Lord's Supper, at which were 
 present, Griquaas, Hottentots, Dutch, English and 
 Scotch, commemorating the death of Him who died 
 for the salvation of men of all lands under heaven, 
 and whose gospel is suited to the wants of all the 
 tribes of the earth. In the afternoon I preached, 
 through tMO interpreters, to the Corannas. When 
 I had spoken a sentence in English, Mr. Anderson 
 repeated it in Dutch, and a third person, (Captain 
 Kok,) in the Coranna tongue. This process was not 
 so tedious as might be supposed, but I observed that 
 it required at least double the time to express it in the 
 Coranna language, as in English or Dutch. The text 
 was 1 Pet. ii. 2. About three hundred attended,
 
 224 JOURNEY TO LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 many from considerable distances. Several of the 
 Griquaas were dressed much like the common people 
 in England. The Coranna interpreter stood with his 
 coat off, and seemed fatigued by speaking so often. 
 Most of the people sat on the ground, for they are not 
 accustomed in their houses to sit on seats. Those 
 who had seats, at least some of them, appeared to be 
 tired by sitting so long in that posture. 
 
 14th. Having resolved to visit the city of Lattakoo, 
 considerably higher up Africa, we occupied the fore- 
 noon in making preparation for it. After dinner six 
 of us rode to a small hill about four miles to the east- 
 ward, which is studded with chrystal, many sexagoni- 
 cal pieces of which we gathered, and had we had a 
 hammer we might have brought away some better 
 specimens. The ground around it is full of saltpetre, 
 and of course produces little pasture, only bushes and 
 rushes. 
 
 They expect some rain here in September, but 
 their rainy season is in November, December, and 
 January. Their cows give no milk except while the 
 calves continue to suck. 
 
 15th. Every thing being ready for our journey to 
 L.attakoo, we went into the meeting house, and were 
 commended by the church to the guidance and gracious 
 protection of God, in the presence of all the inha- 
 bitants, after which we departed, accompanied by 
 Mr. Anderson and Adam Kok, at four P.M. followed
 
 JUNE.] JOURNEV TO LATTAKOO. 225 
 
 by the farewells of the people. We were in three 
 waggons, but two others were to follow on the morrow. 
 About five o'clock, a little before sun-set, we observed 
 four or five lions on a rising ground a little to the 
 right of the path. On our approaching nearer they 
 turned round and looked towards us ; but as they 
 seemed willing to let us pass without molestation, we 
 gave them none. 
 
 Not far from the same place where these lions 
 were, the Griquaas, a short time ago, shot a lioness, 
 that had three young ones following her, which they 
 brought home and kept for some time; but when 
 they began to kill the lambs and attack the sheep, 
 they judged it time to put them to death. Our 
 waggons were now and then nearly in the Bushmen's 
 pits. 
 
 Lately there was a lion that did much mischief, and 
 they could not get him shot; but thay contrived a 
 snare which succeeded. They surrounded a fountain 
 of water with a hedge of bushes, leaving only a small 
 entrance; at the side of which they placed a loaded 
 gun, with a cord fastened to the trigger, which went 
 across the entrance, at a proper height. The unsus- 
 pecting lion, being thirsty, came to this fountain to 
 drink : on entering, his foot came upon the cord, 
 which fired off the contents into him, and he fell 
 dead upon the spot.
 
 226 JOURNEY TO LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 After five hours travelling we halted for the night 
 near Ongeluck Fountain. We heard the roaring of 
 several lions not far off. 
 
 I6th. At sun-rise the thermometer was 40. A 
 Bootchuana man came to us from a neighbouring 
 kraal, to inquire about his son, who had been detained 
 by a boor in the colony when accompanying some 
 Klaar Water waggons to Cape-town. Poor man, he 
 seemed much concerned for the captivity of his son 
 among the white people. We promised, on our return 
 to the colony, to endeavour to procure his release, 
 which appeared to afford him a litde satisfaction. 
 When leaving us he called several times to his dog, 
 Bussera Mentay, which means affectionate wife. 
 About nine, A.M. we walked to the kraal from whence 
 he came, which lay about three miles to the westward. 
 We travelled along a serpentine valley between low 
 hills, among tall grass, which had a fine appearance. 
 Though almost in the middle of winter, we found it 
 oppressively hot. On our way to the kraal we 
 came to Ongeluck, or Unfortunate Fountain. It 
 received this name from some Griquaas, who had 
 been shooting there, who rested themselves under 
 the shade of a camel-thorn-tree the root of which 
 only now remains. While resting, the gun of one, 
 who was sharpening his flint, Ment off, and shot his 
 neighbour who sat by him. The poor man, after 
 lingering a few days, died. At one time there were 
 hopes of his recovery ; but a person letting off a gun
 
 JUNE.] JOURNEY TO LATTAKOO. 227 
 
 near the hut where he lay, so alarmed him in his weak 
 state, that he died soon after. 
 
 On arriving at the kraal, I went into the Captain's 
 hut, and sat down upon the only stool in it. They made 
 an apology to Mr. Read because they had not a stool 
 for him and Mr. Anderson, who were standing with- 
 out, saying that they were always accustomed to sit on 
 the ground, and had no occasion for stools. The 
 Captain went behind and brought out an empty snuff- 
 box, which he began to scrape as if in order to find 
 snufF. I understood him, and gave him a supply from 
 my box. His wife, and some others in the hut, were 
 covered with beads, and with brass, copper, and ivory 
 rings round their arms and legs. 
 
 We visited various huts, and found several persons 
 who could read their letters, having been taught them 
 at Klaar Water. They appeared to have nothing to 
 do but to sit talking on the outside of their huts. 
 After conversing with them about an hour we took 
 leave, and returned to our waggons. I trust Mr. 
 Anderson, on his return home, will send some of his 
 people to them to teach some of them to read, and 
 these will teach others; and as they understand the 
 Dutch language, they will thereby be able to read the 
 word of God. Our walk was pleasant, the day re- 
 sembling a fine English summer day. Several bushes 
 were in beautiful flower, which made us forget it was 
 winter. The people though destitute, as Europeans 
 
 X} g 2
 
 228 JOURNEY TO LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 would think, of every outward comfort, were cheerful 
 and apparently happy; but this appearance might 
 arise from the novelty of our visit. Most of their 
 children were extremely terrified when I approached 
 tliem, screaming with ail their might, taking refuge 
 under their mothers' sheepskin cloaks, their only 
 covering. I was pleased to observe a waggon, though 
 an old one, which no doubt was the property of the 
 Headman. Thermometer, at noon, 70. 
 
 Departed at two, P.M. travelling in a valley bound- 
 ed by ranges of hills on the right and left, about ten 
 or twelve miles distant from each other. The range 
 to the westward commences at the Great River, and 
 runs several days journey into the interior. The soil 
 is red earth, at present covered with tall withered 
 grass, reaching above the bellies of the oxen, in which 
 we could not walk without much pain arising from the 
 prickly seeds of it attaching to our clothes, and work- 
 ing their way through to the skin, and not easily 
 extracted. 
 
 At five, P.M. we passed a place, where an affecting 
 circumstance happened about twelve years ago. Two 
 brothers of the name of Bergover, (bastard Hottentots,) 
 with their families, had left the Cedar Mountains in 
 the colony along with one Kok, and another person, to 
 settle on the Krooman river, where they remained for 
 some time, and were returning in a waggon. A little 
 higher up the country they were attacked by a party of 
 wild Bushmen, and one of the brothers was killed. The
 
 JUNE.] JOURNEY TO LATTAKOO. 529 
 
 Other defended the waggon with his gun, till the wives 
 and children yoked the oxen. Then he drove it and 
 defended them for a long time with his musket, which 
 he frequently fired off, but only with powder to frighten 
 them, not having time to load it with ball. When he 
 came to this place, some of the Bushmen had got there 
 before, and lay concealed behind a bush which he had 
 to pass, and there they shot him dead with their poisoned 
 arrows. The consternation of the two helpless widows 
 and their fatherless children may be more easily con- 
 ceived than expressed, when they saw the only remaining 
 man breathe his last, and tiiemselves at the mercy of 
 the most savage of mankind ; but that God who is the 
 widow's friend had help at hand. At this interesting 
 crisis a Landdrost, who was travelling in the interior, 
 came in sight with his people, on which the Bushmen 
 ran off without obtaining the booty they had so eagerlv 
 desired. Thus these poor widows and fatherless child- 
 ren were almost miraculously rescued from the hands 
 of the cruel barbarians, when just lifted up to destroy 
 them. Information was immediately conveyed to 
 Klaar Water, from whence a party was instantly dis- 
 patched to guard them thither. Kok was also mur- 
 dered some time after. 
 
 Halted at seven, P.M. by the side of some tall thorn 
 trees, but there was no water. The moon shone very 
 pleasantly, but the night was cold ; however, this was 
 counteracted by ^ large fire, plenty of firewood being 
 at hand.
 
 230 JOURNEY TO LATTAKOO. [1815. 
 
 17th. Thermometer at sun-rise, 34. Set off at 
 eight, A.M. and reached John Bloom's Fountain 
 about eleven. This fountain derived its name from 
 a person who died about fourteen years ago, who was 
 a runaway from the colony, and put himself at the 
 head of many Bushmen, Corannas, and Hottentots, 
 and lived on the plunder of other kraals. As he re- 
 sided chiefly at this fountain, it was called by his 
 name. It is full of reeds ten or twelve feet high, with 
 many birds' nests hanging like bags from them. 
 Thormometer at noon, 70. 
 
 At two, P.M. we were again on our way. At 
 four we halted at Blink Fountain, at the bottom of 
 Blink (or Shining) Hill; so called on account of a 
 shining stone, resembling the lead of which pencils are 
 made in England. This the Bootchuanas and others 
 grind to powder, which they use in the same way as hair 
 powder is used in Europe. The red stone with which 
 the surrounding nations paint their bodies comes also 
 from this hill, and, no doubt, forms an article of 
 trade or exchange. The hill is low and flat on the 
 top, where there are several huge rocks, of a dark 
 brown colour, which are very curious. We ascended 
 to these rocks, the sight of which amply repaid us for 
 the labour. There are many indications that the hill 
 has been produced by some volcanic eruption ; most of 
 the stones lying about have the appearance of having 
 been burnt to a cinder at some remote period of 
 antiquity.
 
 JUKE.] JOURNEY TO LATTAKOO. 231 
 
 About sun-set our horsemen arrived, with the tid- 
 ings that they had killed one buffalo, and wounded 
 two. The Buffalo is often extremely furious when 
 wounded and not disabled. Should the person climb 
 a tree, in order to escape, he is far from being out of 
 danger, for the buffalo will run with violence and strike 
 the tree with his massy horns, which cover as with a 
 helmet the crown of his head ; the stroke of which will 
 so shake the largest trees, as to require a firm hold in- 
 deed to prevent the person from falling to the ground, 
 and being consequently tossed into the air by the 
 horns of the enraged animal. Our two additional 
 waggons from Klaar Water joined us about seven, 
 P.M. so that now we were a considerable body, having 
 five waggons and four horses. 
 
 The Fountain being at a little distance from the 
 place at which we halted, our people brought water 
 from a hole at hand, which tasted tolerably well, 
 though it had a more foul appearance than any I had 
 seen thrown away in England. To find this hole 
 readily after dark, one of our people lighted up a fire 
 among the tall reeds where it was. Contrary to his 
 intention the fire spread over the whole plain as far as 
 the rushes extended, and produced one of the grandest 
 objects I ever beheld, like the burning of a city ; but 
 grand as it was, hardly one of our people looked over 
 their shoulders to observe it : there was a reason, 
 however, for they were hungry, and were either eating 
 or expecting soon to eat, with which nothing must 
 interfere; yet they often fast long without uttering
 
 232 JOURNEY TO LATTAKOO. [i8l3. 
 
 a complaint. Three things, exclusive of religion, 
 comprehend all that engages the attention of South 
 Africans — money, food, and tobacco. The wonders 
 of God s creating power around them are viewed with 
 the eyes of cattle. Two or three of our people having 
 observed my attachment to flowers, brought me a 
 curious flower as we passed along ; but they brought 
 it with as little interest as a servant in Britain brings 
 a newspaper to his master, evidently uninterested in 
 what they bring. The firmament in vain preaches to 
 multitudes the handy works of the Most High in this 
 remote region. When the conflagration passed our 
 waggons, without injuring them, we went quietly to 
 rest. 
 
 1 8th. Thermometer at sun-rise, 44. Blink or Shin- 
 ing Mountain, at the foot of which we were, is a kind of 
 Mecca to the surrounding nations. They are constant- 
 ly making pilgrimages thither, not indeed to pay reli- 
 gious homage, but only to obtain fresh supplies of 
 blue powder to ornament their hair. For how many 
 ages this custom has existed, none can say ; it is from 
 time immemorial, and no doubt will continue till some 
 great revolution in the sentiments of the people shall 
 take place. In the present state of society such a 
 journey must afford much entertainment, having little 
 at home to make one day differ firom another. This 
 constant sameness has a tendency to bring the mind into 
 a kind of torpid state, which it is distressing even to 
 witness. The gospel is remarkably fitted for rousing 
 such sleeping, inactive minds, by placing before them
 
 jt;NE.] JOURNEY TO LATTAKOO. 233 
 
 the majesty and glory of the infinite Jehovah, the 
 endless, unbounded felicity of the blessed, and the 
 unspeakable misery of the wicked in the world to 
 come— subjects which in all ages have produced won* 
 derful effects on the human mind. 
 
 After breakfast, Mr. Read and I, with one of our 
 Hottentots carrying a lighted candle, proceeded to 
 explore this powder mine. After having descended 
 with some difficulty, we went towards the centre of 
 the mountain, and soon lost sight of the world, some- 
 times wading halfway up the leg, in black lead dust. 
 The arched roof was full of projecting pieces of tiie 
 shining rock, and large caverns appeared on each 
 side as we advanced. The roof at one place, appeared 
 curiously carved, as if the work of art, part of which 
 we were able to reach. On touching this carved work, 
 we perceived it had life, and on examination, we found 
 it to be composed of a multitude of bats, hanging 
 asleep from the roof and the projecting rocks on the 
 sides of the cave. Moving them backwards and for- 
 wards neither awoke, nor made any of them lose their 
 hold of the rock on which they hung by the claws 
 of their hinder legs — but holding the candle at a little 
 distance under one of them, aw oke it, when it flew to 
 another part of the cave. Perhaps we penetrated 
 about a hundred feet into the mountain, when it became 
 so low and narrow that we could proceed no farther 
 in that direction. We returned, and went by a passage 
 leading to the right, deeper into the mountain ; at 
 the bottom of the descent we entered a large cavern, 
 
 H h
 
 234 JOURNEY TO LATTAKOO, [1813, 
 
 the floor of which was strewed with the bones of 
 animals, and some parts indicated fires having been 
 made in it, perhaps by people taking refuge from 
 enemies, for it was too gloomy and terrific to be chosen 
 as a residence even by wild Bushmen. After collecting 
 some samples of the rock, and powder, we returned 
 to the mouth of the cave, nearly as black as chimney 
 sweepers by the powder, which flew about so as 
 almost to extinguish our lights. 
 
 We were detained at our station until three P.M. 
 by two circumstances — the straying of our cattle in 
 different directions, and the bringing the buffalo that 
 was shot the day before. We feared the lions would 
 devour it during the night, but they did not, so we 
 had food for ourselves and followers for several days, 
 without diminishing the number of our sheep. 
 
 Leaving Blink Fountain, we travelled N. among 
 tall grass till six in the evening, when the stars being 
 obscured by clouds, it became so dark, we judged it 
 prudent to halt till the rising of the moon should 
 furnish sufficient light to proceed. Water and plenty 
 of wood being at hand, we kindled three large fires, 
 and made coffee, which contributed much to our com- 
 fort in a cold and windy night. The water had the 
 flavour of oil paint, but was pure. Part of the curtain 
 which covered the heavens being drawn aside, we 
 found sufficient star-light to go forward at eight P.M. 
 We continued in motion till after midnight, when we 
 halted at Tamanay Fountain, under the shelter of
 
 JUNE.] JOURNEY TO LATTAKOO. 235 
 
 camel-thorn trees, which afforded considerable pro- 
 tection from the wind and sleet which fell, but did 
 not remain on the ground. "We got to rest about two 
 o'clock in the morning. 
 
 19th. Thermometer at nine A.M. 36. — at noon, 
 44. — at two P.M. 50. A few years ago, the 
 water emitted from Tamanay Fountain was hardly 
 visible ; but of late, the quantity of water sent forth 
 has been annually increasing. The same thing has 
 happened at other fountains or springs of water in this 
 country. Should this become general in South Africa, 
 it will become a more fertile and pleasant country, 
 and more populous. 
 
 As the next fountain was only four hours distant, 
 and the next beyond it twelve hours, both could not 
 be reached on the same day ; we did not therefore 
 leave Tamanay until two P.M. intending only to reach 
 the nearest that day. Our way as usual was through 
 long grass and bushes* The soil was red and sandy. 
 A chain of hills running northward was a few miles 
 from us to the right, or east of us. 
 
 Some may have wondered how Abraham and other 
 patriarchs, in the ages of antiquity, were permitted at 
 pleasure to take up their residence, with numerous 
 flocks, in countries where they were strangers, and 
 without making any compensation to the native in- 
 habitants ; but the same practice is customary in the 
 interior of South Africa. Kraals of Bushmen come 
 
 H h 2
 
 236 JOURNEY TO LATTAKOO. [nvj. 
 
 and take up their residence in the Coranna country as 
 long as they please, without being considered intruders ; 
 and the Corannas do the same in the Bushman country, 
 or in any of the other countries. In this way there 
 is both a mixture of blood and of languages among 
 the inhabitants of these regions. 
 
 At sun-set we passed Little Kosie Fountain, and at 
 six P.M. halted at the Great Kosie, in a small wood 
 of camel-thorn trees. Kosie is a Bootchuana word, 
 which signifies rich, and perhaps is applied to this 
 fountain, from their always finding water in it. It 
 was at this fountain that the two Bergovers were 
 first attacked by the Bushmen, and that the first 
 was slain ; and the last time Kok's uncle was here, 
 notvv ithstanding the vigilance of his people, knowing by 
 the barking of the dogs that Bushmen were near, one 
 of his oxen was carried off at the very time that he 
 and his people were yoking the rest. Except the kraal 
 we visited at Unfortunate Fountain, we had not seen 
 one inhabitant of the country since leaving Klaar 
 Water, and this was the fifth day. 
 
 In the wood are two forsaken Coranna huts, com- 
 posed of branches of trees and reeds, the shape of half 
 a globe without a front ; but by means of the trees the 
 inhabitants would be tolerably sheltered from the 
 weather in them. In the front they have a fire during 
 night to keep their feet warm while asleep, and to 
 protect from the intrusions of wild beasts. About 
 ten at night a wolf came near us, but after a few
 
 JUNE.] JOURNEY TO LATTAKOO. 237 
 
 angry roars, he walked off. The jackals were also 
 noisy, but their cry is more amusing than terrific. 
 
 20th. The night felt extremely cold, and in the 
 morning the ground was covered with hoar frost, and 
 the ice was half an inch thick. Thermometer at eight 
 A.M. 28 ; thermometer at noon in the shade, 64 ; in 
 the sun 84- Towards evening we left the Great Kosie 
 Fountain, and at midnight reached the mountains 
 which form the boundary to the S.W. of the Boo- 
 tchuana countries. These mountains having no name, 
 we called them Reyner Mountains. 
 
 21st. At one o'clock in the morning we entered the 
 Matchappee country, and at half past three o'clock 
 we happily arrived at what we named Steven Fountain. 
 A wolf who ran into the midst of our poor sheep, lost 
 bis life in the attempt ; and a little dog, that belonged 
 to the young Bushman who accompanied us for a 
 few days after entering his country, was crushed to 
 death by the wheels of two waggons going over him. 
 
 After breakfast we walked about three miles from 
 Steven Fountain to view Krooman Fountain, from 
 whence the river of that name proceeds. It is the 
 most abundant spring of water I ever had an oppor- 
 tunity to examine. I measured it at about a yard's 
 distance from the rock from whence it flows, and 
 found it three yards wide, and from fourteen to eigh- 
 teen inches deep, but after a course of fifty or sixty 
 miles it becomes invisible by running into plains of
 
 23» JOURNEY TO LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 sand. Perhaps by leading it in another direction, or 
 cutting a bed for it across the sands, it might become 
 a more extensive blessing to the country. The last 
 experiment is likely to be the least successful, as pro- 
 bably the first storm of wind would fill up the new 
 bed. We entered the cave from whence it proceeds 
 on purpose to examine it. The entrance was narrow, 
 but we soon reached a kind of central room, the roof 
 of which resembled in shape, though not in height, 
 the doom of St. Pauls Cathedral in London, from 
 which went four passages in different directions, in all 
 which streams of water flowed. Though we had 
 lighted candles with us, we could discover no end to 
 any of these passages. Within, the water was almost 
 lukewarm ; but in the outside it was very cold. The 
 rock is composed of limestone. 
 
 Here John Kok, a boor from Cedar Mountain, and 
 another, settled, when the Matchappees resided on 
 the Krooman. Kok collected so many elephants' teeth, 
 that, on his first journey to the Cape, he cleared 
 several thousand dollars, which he spent foolishly on 
 horses, dress, &c. before he returned to the Krooman. 
 He was soon after murdered by two Matchappees, 
 whom their chief delivered up to his wido\Y to be 
 shot; but two of his own Hottentot servants were 
 afterwards considered the chief aggressors, having pre- 
 vailed upon the others to do it. Kok's companion 
 immediately retired from the interior, and obtained a 
 farm in the colony. We viewed the remains of Kok's 
 house, and his garden, and after searching for some
 
 JUNE.] JOURNEY TO LATTAKOO. 239 
 
 time among the long grass, we discovered his grave 
 also, which none of us could view with indifference. 
 
 Our people supposed that Mateebe, the Matchappee 
 king, was already informed of our approach, as he 
 has an outpost not far from the Krooman Fountain ; 
 and should any of the inhabitants while hunting, or 
 travelling, observe a stranger, and not instantly repair 
 to Lattakoo with the information, the punishment is 
 death. 
 
 Left Steven Fountain at four P.M. traveUing north- 
 ward among grass, from three to four feet high, and 
 bushes, with Reyner Mountains in a N.W. direction. 
 At six P.M. when almost dark, the oxen in our wag- 
 gons took fright, dragging the waggons full speed in 
 different directions : at seven the same scene was re- 
 peated, which was alarming while it continued, lest 
 the waggons should dash against each other, or running 
 through great bushes be overturned. Perhaps their 
 fright was occasioned by the dogs being only seen 
 among the long grass when they leaped up, for none 
 of us heard the roar of any lion. 
 
 Two. Matchappee men joined us, who had been 
 hunting, and who had probably been awaked from 
 sleep under a bush by the cracking of our whips, 
 which from the stillness of the night was heard to a 
 great distance. They walked along with us until 
 eight P.M. when we reached Townsend Fountain, 
 where we judged it prudent to halt till the morning,
 
 540 JOURNEY TO LATTAKOO. [J813> 
 
 as the oxen were become so timid. On our kindling 
 a fire, the two strangers sat down near it. One of 
 them in a lively manner asked many questions of some 
 of our Griquaas. When any thing spoken pleased 
 him much, he repeated the principal word in the 
 sentence five or six times with a loud voice, which I 
 understood was designed to shew that he was attending 
 to what M^as spoken, and likewise pleased with the in- 
 formation. When he saw Adam Kok was with us, 
 whom he knew, and heard we were going on a visit 
 to Lattakoo to do them good, he said he was glad 
 that he followed the footsteps of his father, who had 
 been their friend. He likewise expressed much satis- 
 faction that we had not visited Leyse's Place, (which 
 is a considerable town on the Krooman River, which 
 we had left behind,) before we had visited Mateebe, 
 at Lattakoo, as at present he was not on very friendly 
 terms with Leyse. They are dark copper coloured, 
 tall and well shaped. 
 
 The paths in the Coranna district, and in this 
 country are all narrow, because the people walk, as wild 
 geese fly, one immediately behind the other. About 
 nine A.M. the strangers moved quietly from our fire, 
 and as we supposed, went to another of our company ; 
 but we learned afterwards they had gone off. 
 
 22d. Thermometer at sun-rise, (seven A.M.) 28. 
 At which time our Matchappee friends rejoined us, 
 having been with some comrades during the night.
 
 JUNE.] JOURNEY TO LATTAKOO. 241 
 
 At one, P.M. left Townsend Fountain, and travelled 
 among thousands of acres of long grass, or hay, reach- 
 ing sometimes as high as the backs of the oxen. It is 
 grievous to see so much of the world remaining in a 
 wilderness state, and so much of the annual pro- 
 ductions of the ground perishing without being useful 
 either to man or beast. Much money must be given 
 in most countries for a small spot of ground ; but here, 
 a cask of tobacco, or a parcel of beads, would purchase 
 a district as large as Yorkshire; but I hope better 
 times are coming to this miserable land. 
 
 At half past four, P.M. we came to a fountain of 
 excellent water, shaded by a beautiful clump of camel- 
 thorn trees, which we named Waugh Fountain, and 
 the immense plain with which it is surrounded, Pellatt 
 Plain. At this fountain a Matchappee, who had been 
 on a visit to a distant kraal, joined our company. He 
 was a fine looking young man, clothed with tanned 
 sheepskins, coloured with the red stone found at Blink- 
 hill, and his skin painted with the same. Our people 
 felled a tree for some necessary purpose, but had no 
 man's permission to ask before they proceeded to work. 
 This being the shortest day in the year, \ve observed 
 the sun set about a quarter before five o'clock; and 
 being in a plain, without visible bounds, and without 
 clouds, the scene resembled sun-settins at sea. Here 
 we first discovered the track of IVIr. Burchel's was- 
 gon, the only European now alive who ever visited 
 the city of Lattakoo, where it now stands. The same 
 people once lived three or four days' journey nearer 
 
 I i
 
 242 JOURNEY TO LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 the colony, where they were visited by Messrs. Truyter, 
 Vanderlingen, and Janz. 
 
 We stopped only about half an hour at Waugh Foun- 
 tain, when we proceeded, accompanied by the Matchap- 
 pee until six, P.M. when we halted for the night, which 
 proved to be a very cold one. However, having plenty 
 of thorn branches at hand, we made both a warm and 
 bright fire, which rendered the night more agreeable. 
 Our days resembled fine English days in summer, and 
 our nights those of winter. In the day we had almost 
 constant sunshine : in the night, constant moon or star 
 light, which, with the aspect of the country, resembling 
 an endless field of ripe corn, made this part of the 
 journey extremely pleasant. Though we had only 
 seen one small Griquaa kraal, and three Matchappee 
 men during the last nine days, we did not feel as soli- 
 taries, for our oxen, goats, horses, sheep, and dogs, 
 afforded entertainment, and our spirits were raised as 
 we drew near to the city of Lattakoo. 
 
 23d. At sun-rise we left our encampment, and at 
 nine, A.M. halted for refreshment, at a fountain 
 covered with ice near half an inch thick, whose 
 Bootchuana name is Hatalakomoo, or Bones of a 
 Beasfs Head, the water of which was excellent. 
 Near this fountain our people shot a knoo, about the 
 size of an ordinary ox, and greatly resembling the 
 buffalo in the shape of its head and horns, with skin 
 resembling the zebra. Our people were always pleased 
 to see a slaughter of this kind, for they had been ac-
 
 JUNE.] JOURNEY TO LATTAKOO. 243 
 
 customed from infancy to live almost entirely on flesh. 
 Thermometer at noon 62. At one, P.M. we went for- 
 ward, taking the knoo into our waggons as we passed : 
 it was cut to pieces, and the skin salted that I might 
 carry it to England for the gratification of friends. We 
 had been travelling in Pellatt Plain for three days, and 
 had seen no appearance of a termination to it. At 
 three, P.M. a distant hill before us, due N. came in 
 sight, at the bottom of which was said to stand the 
 city of Lattakoo. At six, P.M. we halted on some 
 rising ground, and near an excellent fountain of water, 
 which we named Shrubsole Fountain. 
 
 24th. Thermometer at sun-rise 34. Two Matchap- 
 pees came to our waggons, who informed us that 
 Mateebe, the king of Lattakoo, was absent on a hunt 
 with a large party, in consequence of its being the time 
 of the annual circumcision. At our morning worship 
 the Matchappees sat very still ; and in time of prayer 
 they imitated our Hottentots in kneeling, and bending 
 their heads toward the ground. Some of our cattle 
 were unruly when yoking, and ran off. The strangers 
 shewed great agility and expertness in catching them. 
 Thermometer at noon, 63 ; at which time we began 
 our last stage to Lattakoo. At one, P.M. we passed 
 Cowie Fountain, the pure water of which was so in- 
 viting, that most of us regaled ourselves with a draught 
 of it. A little further on, four young men, about six- 
 teen years of age, came up to us, whose faces were 
 painted red and stroked with white paint in a regular 
 way, which had a very odd appearance. They had 
 
 I i 2
 
 244 JOURNEY TO LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 *ately been circumcised, as a sign of their having at- 
 tained the years of manhood. One of the four was son 
 to the late king, Mallayabang. They were all well- 
 shaped, their bodies painted red, and their hair pow- 
 dered with blue powder. They asked very modestly 
 for a little tobacco, which we gave them. They all 
 carried assagays, or spears, over their shoulders, and 
 wore brown coloured skin cloaks, with a round musk- 
 cat skin sewed over the cloak between the shoulders, 
 which made them resemble soldiers with their knap- 
 sacks. At two, P.M. we came to inclosed fields, into 
 one of which I went, and found the last crop had been 
 Indian or Caffre corn. In about half an hour we 
 crossed the Lattakoo, a small river of charming water. 
 Here the four youths left us, perhaps not being per- 
 mitted to cross it till a certain time in the day, for we 
 afterwards observed them leave the town in the morn- 
 ing and never return until the evening.
 
 J?latem,pa^c z^^. 
 
 
 
 1^^; ^^4?i!°rN ~5^i^ ^ %;^N 

 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 ARRIVAL AT THE CITY OF LATTAKOO— OUR RECEP- 
 TION—MURDER OF DR. COWAN AND PARTY— MEETING 
 WITH THE CHIEF MEN— VISIT TO DIFFERENT PARTS OF 
 THE CITY. 
 
 XxAVING crossed the river, we immediately began 
 to ascend rising ground. Many footpaths became 
 visible, all running in one direction, toward the N.E. 
 which indicated our approach to the city. At three, 
 P.M. reaching the summit of the hill, Lattakoo came 
 all at once into view, lying in a valley between hills, 
 stretching about three or four miles from E. to W. 
 On descending the hill towards this African city, we 
 were rather surprised that no person was to be seen in 
 any direction, except two or three boys. Though 
 come within a hundred yards of the houses, still no 
 inhabitant appeared. When my waggon got to the 
 entrance of the principal street or lane, a man ap- 
 peared, and made signs for us to follow him. Pro- 
 ceeding amidst the houses, every thing remained as 
 still as if the town had been forsaken of its inhabitants : 
 this was the case till we came opposite to the King's 
 house, when we were conducted into a square, formed
 
 246 RECEPTION AT LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 by bushes and branches of trees laid one above ano- 
 ther, in which were several hundreds of people assem- 
 bled together, and a number of tall men with spears, 
 drawn up in military order on the north side of the 
 square. In a few minutes the square was filled with 
 men, women, and children, who poured in from all 
 quarters, to the number of a thousand or more. The 
 noise from so many tongues, bawling with all their 
 might, was rather confounding, after being so long 
 accustomed to the stillness of the wilderness. We 
 were soon separated and lost sight of each other in the 
 crowd. At first the women and children fled if we 
 only looked at them, but they gradually became 
 bolder. I observed some of the children, Avhose 
 heads I had stroked, throwing themselves in my way, 
 that I might do it again ; when they looked to their 
 more timid companions, as if they had said, Are not 
 we courageous? The crowd so increased, that we 
 could hardly find out each other, and wondered when 
 we should be permitted to take some refreshment. 
 We adopted a scheme, which after a while answered 
 our purpose ; we drew up the waggons in the 
 form of a square, and placed our tent in the centre. 
 We were introduced to JVIunaneets the uncle, and to 
 Salakootoo, the brother of the late king Mallayabang, 
 who stood in the middle of the spearmen. A house in 
 the square, used by them for some public purpose, was 
 assigned to us for a kitchen. 
 
 On getting into our tent, a crowd of the chief men 
 followed us and filled the tent to the outside, and the
 
 JUNE.] RECEPTION AT LATTAKOO. 247 
 
 square formed by our waggons was like a bee-hive, in 
 which the confused noise rendered conversation almost 
 impossible. On something being put down on our 
 table, we were agreeably surprised to find the crowd 
 immediately retire. Whether this proceeded from a 
 sense of decorum, or in consequence of orders from 
 Munaneets, the uncle and deputy of the king, I could 
 not learn. 
 
 We were now completely at their mercy, and our 
 oxen had left the town for pasture ; but we considered 
 ourselves safe : at the same time we judged it prudent 
 to establish a regular watch for the protection of our 
 property. 
 
 About seven years ago Lord Caledon, when Gover- 
 nor of the Cape, sent up a party, consisting of Dr. 
 Cowan, Lieutenant Denovan, twenty of the Cape 
 regiment, a boor, and a person from Klaar Water, to 
 explore Africa as far as the Portuguese settlement at 
 Mosambique, since which they had never been heard 
 of by the government. The whole party having been 
 murdered by the Wanketzens, the next nation or tribe 
 beyond Lattakoo, we learned that the people were 
 whispering to one another, that our coming was to 
 revenge that murder, which suspicion was undoubtedly 
 the cause of the strange silence of the city on our en- 
 tering it. Although king Mateebe was from home, 
 yet in consequence of this information, we judged it 
 necessary to invite the chief men to a conference with
 
 248 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 US that evening, to remove these suspicions by inform- 
 ing them of the real object of our visit. 
 
 In consequence of our invitation, nine of the prin- 
 cipal men came into our tent a little after sun-set, and 
 sat down upon the ground. Their countenances indi- 
 cated the possession of good natural parts, and had 
 they been dressed with wigs and gowns, like our Eng- 
 lish judges, I think their appearance would have been 
 highly respectable ; but their faces were painted red, 
 and their hair covered with blue powder. 
 
 Through three interpreters, viz. in the Dutch, 
 Coranna, and Bootchuana languages, 1 informed 
 them that I had come from a remote country, be- 
 yond the sun, where the true God, who made all 
 things, was known — that the people of that country 
 had long ago sent some of their brethren to Klaar 
 Water, and other parts of Africa, to tell them many 
 things which they did not know, in order to do them 
 good, and make them better and happier — that having 
 heard since I came into these parts, to see how our 
 friends were going on, that the Matchappees were a 
 people friendly to strangers, I had come to Lattakoo to 
 inquire if they were willing to receive teachers — that 
 if they were willing, then teachers should be sent to 
 live among them. 
 
 They replied, that they could give no answer to what 
 I had said till Mateebe should arrive from his jackal
 
 JUNE.] 
 
 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. 
 
 249 
 
 hunt, and promised to dispatch a messenger in search 
 of him early in the morning. 
 
 The following are the names of the persons assem- 
 bled: 
 
 Munaneets, the king's uncle, 
 
 and governor of the city. 
 Salakootoo, the king's uncle. 
 
 Tesone, Mootzazeen, Mam- 
 pe, Kulipan, Mooteeree, 
 Mookalluk,and Quarakan. 
 
 After the conversation, Salakootoo remarked, that 
 he had not tasted any of my tobacco yet, which re- 
 mark produced a present of some. One of the queens 
 brought some milk, for which she and those with her 
 received a little tobacco. She asked Mr. Read for 
 some snuff; he said he did not take snuff: to which 
 she shrewdly replied, " He would have the more to 
 give away on that account." 
 
 While we were at dinner in the tent, an old man 
 came opposite to the tent door, knelt down, and re- 
 mained for some time in that posture, after which he 
 arose and walked off. 
 
 25th. During morning worship in our kitchen, which 
 was entirely open in front, some of the people attended, 
 and behaved very well. One, being asked afterwards 
 if he knew what we had been about, said we prayed, 
 but he did not know to whom. When told it was 
 to the Great Being, he said they believed there was a 
 Great Being, but they did not know him, for they had 
 never seen him. 
 
 K k
 
 450 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 In the forenoon we visited a district of the city, 
 about half a mile to the eastward of our waggons. It 
 had also a square for public resort, like that in which our 
 waggons stood, where some of the men were employed 
 in stretching skins with pins on the ground ; others in 
 rubbing the inside of skins with rough bones, which 
 gives them much the appearance of woollen cloth. Some 
 skins were extended and covered with cow dung in or- 
 der to tan them. Four men were employed in sewing 
 a skin cloak, which they did with a straight awl, much 
 in the same way as shoemakers in England. The 
 women had made something like porridge, which they 
 sent us in the pot in which it had been made, but un- 
 accompanied with spoon or any instrument with which 
 to eat it : we made signs that we had lately been eat- 
 ing. They sent us also thick milk in a calabash, of 
 which we took a little. Though the young people ap- 
 peared very anxious to see us, yet the timidity of most 
 of them prevented them from gratifying their curiosity. 
 The parents, however, brought some of them by force, 
 when they screamed excessively, and seemed as terri- 
 fied as if we had intended to eat them. We gave the 
 people some tobacco, which they immediately began 
 to grind into snuff. 
 
 We next visited the wife of Salakootoo, the king's 
 uncle. She was sitting in the inclosure in front of the 
 house, grinding tobacco between two stones. Except- 
 ing the queen, she was the best looking woman we had 
 seen in Lattakoo, and had some fine children around 
 her, who were so alarmed at our appearance, that they
 
 JUNE.] RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO, 251 
 
 clung to their mother, when we seemed at any time to 
 approach them. We likewise visited the queen, who 
 had also a family of fine children, who were sitting 
 round a fire in the corner of the yard. 
 
 While writing in the tent, some of the principal peo- 
 ple came in and seated themselves around me; but in 
 consequence of their talking so much, and so loud, 
 about my writing, dress, and so forth, I was obliged 
 to desist. To make something of time I took down 
 their names, which were Lahalla, Humay, Jabaleech, 
 Shoomuliky, Muteer, Shoomiliky, Pallamma, Mura- 
 koomaille, IVIootabuche, Mouqua, Mohalaily, Chink- 
 anny, and Sheecolee. I then took down the names 
 they gave to the different parts of the human body, 
 and their numbers up to twenty, all which afforded 
 them much entertainment. After recording a few 
 words, I generally read them over to them^ to find 
 whether I had taken them down correctly and pro- 
 nounced them properly, as well as to assist them in 
 forming some idea of writing. At my manner of pro- 
 nouncing some of their words, they laughed so im- 
 moderately loud, as almost to make me deaf. When I 
 could not catch the sound of some of them,, so as to be 
 able to put them down, perhaps five or six would pro- 
 nounce them at one time, which only increased my 
 difficulty. I then waited for silence, and held my ear 
 to the most sensible looking countenance, and obtained 
 it in this way. They were much entertained by the 
 red covering of my journal, which each of them cau- 
 tiously touched with his fore finger. 
 
 K k 2
 
 252 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [18 IS. 
 
 While I was recording the transactions of the day, 
 (six, P.M. and dark,) about twelve people were sitting 
 a few yards distant from the tent, singing one word, 
 with a little variation, viz. Hailylallay — Hielaylallay. 
 After repeating it six or eight times in chorus, they 
 paused and began all at once again. I heard many 
 companies in different parts of the town engaged 
 loudly in the same exercise.
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 STRANGE METHOD OF SOFTENING SKINS— FESTIVAL- 
 ARTICLES MANUFACTURED— CITY DISTRICTS— FEMALE 
 PAINTING— CONVERSATION WITH KING'S UNCLE— 
 MAKRAKKA, A NEIGHBOURING CHIEF. 
 
 W HEN writing after dinner, I was hastily called 
 out to witness something extraordinary. There was a 
 hard smooth skin laid upon the ground, on which 
 was put another skin which they intended to soften. 
 Twelve men on their knees surrounded it : every se- 
 cond person, which made six of the circle, at one in- 
 stant plunged down upon the skin, like one diving into 
 the sea; each person driving it from him, the whole 
 skin was shrivelled into a heap in the centre ; but in 
 raising again their bodies they pulled it to them, which 
 made it flat as before, and made room for the other 
 six to plunge down upon it in the same way. Both 
 sixes alternately continued a long time at this ex- 
 ercise, as if they had been a machine, keeping exact 
 time in falling and rising, by means of words which 
 they sang, intermixed with frightful screams and howl- 
 ing. They frequently appeared firantic and furious; 
 but the instant the operation ended, their countenances
 
 $51 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 resumed their former aspect, as if nothing had hap- 
 pened. 
 
 Our attention was next attracted by a croud of 
 women approaching the square, holding long rods in 
 their hands, and their faces disfigured by white painted 
 strokes in various forms. They marched at a slow 
 pace, closely crouded together, making such bawling 
 as required adamantine lungs and throats of brass. 
 They were preceded by a number of matrons dancing 
 and screaming. On reaching the entrance to the 
 square, there was a feigned battle between the aged and 
 the younger women, which the younger were allowed 
 to gain, when they entered in triumph. The people 
 then formed a large circle, six or eight persons deep, 
 when upwards of forty girls entered, from twelve to 
 sixteen years of age, having their persons whitened with 
 chalk. They danced in a kind of measured irregu- 
 larity, striking the ground most violently with their 
 feet. Many of them had small shields in their hands, 
 which they moved very dexterously in front of all 
 parts of their bodies, as if warding off arrows shot 
 against them. Every one's eyes were constantly fixed 
 on the ground, and they retained a gravity of coun- 
 tenance the whole time, which I shall not soon forget. 
 After dancing about a quarter of an hour, on some 
 signal given, they instantly retired from the circle, 
 were out of sight a few minutes, when they returned 
 and immediately commenced dancing in the same man- 
 ner. This dancing, retiring, and returning, continued 
 about an hour and a half, when the meeting broke up.
 
 .JUNE.] RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. 253 
 
 A Matchappee, being told that cows, oxen, sheep 
 and other animals were made for certain purposes, 
 such as to feed and clothe men, was asked for what 
 purpose he thought man was made. He answered, 
 To go on plundering expeditions against other people. 
 According to this doctrine, the chief end of man is to 
 fight one with another. 
 
 26th. The people here obtain copper and iron 
 from some nation beyond them, but studiously conceal 
 from which. It is understood that there are copper 
 mountains not very distant from Lattakoo, but it is 
 probable that these metals may come from Europe by 
 means of the settlements of the Portuguese oa the 
 Mosambique coast, who trade for slaves with nations 
 in the interior, in exchange for these metals, which 
 are handed from nation to nation till they reach Latta- 
 koo. The people of this city appear to be ingenious, 
 from the articles they manufacture from these metals, 
 such as axes, adzes, knives, spears, and bodkins from 
 iron ; rings for the legs, arms, fingers, and ears, from 
 copper; and likewise from the construction of their 
 houses, which are far superior to those of the nations 
 nearer the colony. Their cloaks are made and sewed 
 as well as could be done by Europeans. 
 
 The city is divided into a number of districts, per- 
 haps fifty, separated from each other, having each a 
 Headman, (or Alderman,) and a place enclosed for 
 public resort, where the men spend the greater part 
 of tlie day together, dressing skins, and making knives
 
 256* RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 and various articles. We spent about three or four 
 hours on this day in visiting some of those districts, 
 but did not see above half of them. All the Headmen 
 came to us soon after our entering the place of public 
 resort, took us to their houses, and treated us with 
 thick milk, boiled wheat, or porridge made of ground 
 wheat. 
 
 At the house of one of the Headmen, who was most 
 venerable in his appearance, his two young wives were 
 preparing to attend the public diversions before our 
 waggons. They sat together in the front of the house 
 within the enclosure. The one was painting her body 
 with stuff composed of red chalk, ground to a powder, 
 and mixed up with grease. It was contained in a 
 wooden bowl which stood at her side. This she 
 spread on the palms of her hands, and rubbed it 
 carefully over her skin. The "Other wife had black 
 lead dust mixed with grease, which, put upon her hair, 
 gave it a blue and sparkling appearance. Notwith- 
 standing our being introduced to them, they went on 
 with the process, and with the utmost composure, 
 till it was finished. The husband though also painted 
 red, yet from the figure of his person, the dignity and 
 gravity of his countenance, the elegance of his fur 
 robe, and various ornaments on his breast, had as 
 noble an appearance as any person I recollect to have 
 seen any where. His house was neat and clean, and 
 his back yard had much of an English appearance. 
 Indeed all the Headmen we saw looked well.
 
 JUNE.] RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. 257 
 
 At one o'clock, the women advanced towards our 
 square in the same manner as before, moving slowly 
 along, holding rods in their hands, dancing and making 
 a great noise. On arriving they formed themselves 
 into a circle, and after singing and dancing for some 
 time, the girls came and were received into the ring, 
 and in the course of two hours we understood a 
 ceremony was performed, at which none but females 
 were allowed to be present. When all was over, the 
 women formed themselves into a solid body with 
 the girls in the middle of them. Then a rope made 
 of skin was tied round the whole company, and they 
 danced in a solid mass, those at one end pulling 
 those at the other to the side of the court, after 
 which the others prevailed, and dragged them by 
 main force to the other, dancing the whole time 
 with tumultuous noise. Upon a signal given, the 
 whole fled, and were instantly out of sight. All this 
 time the men sat conversing together, apparently 
 unconcerned about what was going forward. 
 
 During the evening our waggons were surrounded 
 by a multitude of persons whose noise was equal to 
 that of the busiest inn in London ; during which time 
 we had an interesting conversation with Munaneets, 
 the king's uncle, and Kotcha, one of the principal 
 men. We asked Munaneets if he would like instruc- 
 tion ; he referred tlie question to Kotcha for an answer. 
 He said, " I do not like to tell my thoughts on it at 
 present" — perhaps meaning till the arrival of the kincf. 
 
 L 1
 
 258 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [l8ia» 
 
 " Well, I will tell my mind," said Munaneets, " I 
 should like it. When I hear these people sing, it 
 pleases me like a dance, and I would wish to be able 
 to do it too. Ever since the teachers came to Klaar 
 Water, we have had peace ; they have been like a 
 shield to us ; we have had less trouble. I am grieved 
 tliat this custom (meaning the dancing), has happened 
 at the time you came here, but I cannot prevent 
 it; it is the king's orders, and it will last every day 
 till next full moon." 
 
 In the afternoon I walked to a neighbouring hill, 
 to enjoy a little quiet among the rocks. Several boys 
 and girls accompanied me part of the way, for their 
 diversion, asking me little questions in sport ; repeating 
 frequently the same thing, with a laugh each time; 
 I was grieved I could not understand a single word, 
 but this very circumstance afforded them much enter- 
 tainment. As I advanced, they gradually dropped 
 away, one after another, till only three remained, 
 when these sat down and followed me with their eyes. 
 While sitting on a rock at the head of the hill, two 
 men from the town came to me, who after sitting some 
 time by my side, asked for some tobacco for the 
 trouble they had taken to come to me. Little did they 
 know I would rather have given them some to have 
 kept away. They followed me to the waggons, in 
 expectation of getting some, but I gave none, lest the 
 practice should become common, and I should not 
 be able to obtain any retirement ; for had they sup-
 
 iUNE.] RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. 259 
 
 posed, that all who chose to follow us any where 
 would be rewarded witli tobacco, we should con- 
 stantly have been surrounded with people. 
 
 We discovered, in conversation, that the people under 
 Makrakka, another chief, are called Morolongs, and 
 those under Leeyse are called Bamachaas, and that 
 both, as well as many other nations or tribes are called 
 Bootchuanas, and speak the same language. This is 
 very important, because a missionary, learning the 
 language of Lattakoo, will be able to converse with 
 the people of many other nations, and to translate 
 portions of the Scriptures, which the young people of 
 Lattakoo, when taught to read, could communicate to 
 various nations, thus preparing them to receive mis- 
 sionaries. 
 
 Makrakka and his people were formerly united with 
 Mateebe's people, and were subject to Mallayabang, 
 his father; but Mallayabang having had a criminal 
 intercourse with the wife of Makrakka's son, and the 
 one thinking the witchcraft of the other to be stronger 
 than his, in consequence of more people dying in the 
 district of the one than in that of the other, a separa- 
 tion took place, and a species of war was carried on 
 for some time. 
 
 About seven or eight months ago, a chief belonging 
 to Makrakka, came on a visit to Mallayabang. During 
 his visit, he persuaded the king to cut down a tree 
 which stood a few yards from our waggons in the 
 
 l\ 2
 
 Sm RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [1813- 
 
 square, and they say, buried a stone near the foot of 
 the tree. On returning home, he sent back a present 
 of corn to Mallayabang, who died soon after the 
 receipt of it; on which his people interpreted the 
 cutting down the tree as signifying the king's death, 
 and the burying the stone as his burial ; and assert, 
 that poison was in the corn. This matter has renewed 
 the misunderstanding between the two tribes, yet they 
 do not consider themselves in a state of war. 
 
 Salakootoo sometimes goes out with a party pro- 
 fessedly to hunt ; is absent a long time, and returns 
 with many cattle he has stolen. When Mateebe sees 
 this, he appears to be enraged, but a present of part 
 of the plunder soon pacifies him ; and should the 
 party injured complain, he takes it upon him to 
 satisfy them. 
 
 Wars chiefly arise from two causes, disputes about 
 their w ives, or abusing each other's people ; the party 
 injured then invades his neighbour's territory, carrying 
 destruction wherever he goes. 
 
 It is the province of tbe women to build their houses, 
 to dig the fields, to sow and reap ; and that of the 
 men to milk the cows, make their clothes, and go to 
 war.
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 PUBLIC SHEWS— MESSENGERS RETURN WITHOUT THE 
 KING— FURTHER ACCOUNTS OF DR. COWEN'S MURDER. 
 
 June 27, 1813. 
 
 About eight o'clock in the morning there was a 
 procession of the women and girls, attended with 
 much noisy singing and dancing, carrying poles 
 mounted with ostrich feathers. During the forenoon 
 all was quiet, so that our worship proceeded without 
 molestation. About forty of the men sat round us 
 very quietly during the whole time. 
 
 At two o'clock all was confusion around us. The 
 women brought the girls, most fantastically dressed, 
 and when a circle was formed, about four and twenty 
 women, daubed with white spots of paint, in imitation 
 of leopards, entered and danced for some time. Next 
 entered a woman dressed entirely in straw, so that 
 nothing but her hands were visible. She had much 
 the appearance of a bear walking on his hind legs. 
 There was much shouting, laughing, and clapping of
 
 262 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [1^13. 
 
 hands at this part of the entertainment. Then entered 
 the girls, who danced for a minute, when all of them 
 suddenly dispersed, and our quiet was restored. 
 
 Munaneets came to us in the evening, bringing our 
 interpreter with him, when we had much interesting 
 conversation. We enquired of him their reason for 
 practising circumcision. He said it came to them 
 from father to son. We then asked, Do you not 
 know why your fathers did it? They shook their 
 heads, saying, No. We told them that our book 
 informed us how it began in the world, and gave them 
 the names of Abraham, Ishmael, and Isaac, as the 
 first persons who were circumcised. This appeared to 
 them very interesting information, and they all tried 
 to repeat the names we had mentioned, over and over 
 again, looking to us for correction, if they pronounced 
 any of them wrong. Munaneets, and the others who 
 joined the company, appeared anxious to have them 
 fixed on their memories. 
 
 We asked them if they knew any thing of the origin 
 of mankind, or whence they came. They said they 
 came from some country beyond them, pointing to the 
 N. which is the direction in which Judea lies. That 
 two men came out of the water ; the one rich, having 
 plenty of cattle, the other poor, having only dogs. 
 One lived by oxen, the other by hunting. One of them 
 fell, and the mark of his foot is on a rock to this day. 
 We endeavoured to explain to them how knowledge, 
 conveyed by means of books, was more certain than
 
 JUNE.] RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO, 263 
 
 that conveyed by memory from father to son. Here 
 Munaneets asked if they should be taught to under- 
 stand books. We answered they would ; and when 
 the person we should send (provided Mateebe con- 
 sented), had learned their language, he would change 
 the Bible from our language into theirs. 
 
 Munaneets said — " I have heard more this evening 
 than in all my life before. We must shut our mouths, 
 and only hear !" (looking at his companions while he 
 spoke,) " I acknowledge the things you have to tell 
 us are good, from the change they have made on the 
 Griquaas and Corannas at Klaar Water. Sometimes 
 when we have no rain, food is very scarce ; wherefore 
 I fear that those whom you shall send will not be 
 satisfied, and will leave us." Mr. Read told him, that 
 soon after he came to the Hottentots, they were in 
 the situation he had mentioned, and lived upon roots. 
 Mr. Anderson likewise stated, that when his people 
 were in that situation, he travelled along with them 
 from place to place, in quest of water and grass. 
 Munaneets was satisfied with these answers, and re- 
 marked, " that all white persons who had gone beyond 
 JLattakoo had been murdered, except one, who had 
 gone to a place a little beyond them, but had he 
 staid two days longer, he would have been murdered 
 likewise. When we told them their danger," added 
 Munaneets, " they would not believe us, they thought 
 it was our covetousness, that we wished to have all 
 l,heir beads."
 
 264 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 I think there is little doubt but Mateebe and his 
 people are desirous that white men should not form any 
 connection with tribes beyond them, on purpose that 
 they may always be the channel through which all 
 European articles may hereafter pass to the nations 
 north of Lattakoo. 
 
 They mentioned a tribe of black people called the 
 Wanketzens, who lived not far beyond them — they 
 said that they were there lately, and had seen guns, 
 especially a small one, which they believed was Dr. 
 Cowans, and that these were the people who had 
 murdered Dr. Cowan and all his companions. 
 
 Munaneets being sent for by his wife, abruptly put 
 an end to the conversation. While we were engaged 
 in it, an old man who is averse to our sending teachers, 
 asked how we made candles, pointing to that which 
 was on our table. He also said, he did not need 
 instruction from any one, for the dice which hung 
 from his neck, informed him of every thing which 
 happened at a distance ; and added, if they were to 
 attend to instructions, they would have no time to 
 hunt or to do any thing. 
 
 28th. The wind being high, and the air frosty, I 
 felt it extremely cold in the waggon during the night. 
 Thermometer at sun-rise, 40. There was no procession 
 by the women in the morning, but many of them came 
 in a body to the square, and scolded the Headmen, 
 for allowing them such lean oxen for the feast. Mu-
 
 JUNE.] RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. 265 
 
 naneets, who acted as king's deputy, told them that 
 these were the four oxen which JVIateebe had ordered 
 to be given them, and they should have no other. 
 We expected Mateebe would arrive this day, but we 
 received no intelligence of him. 
 
 Having heard of some paintings in Salakootoo's 
 house, we went after breakfast to view them. We 
 found them very rough representations of the camel- 
 leopard, rhinoceros, elephant, lion, tyger, and stein- 
 buck, which Salakootoo's wife had drawn on the clay 
 wall, with white and black paint. However, they 
 were as well done as we expected, and may lead 
 to something better. The women were very quiet, 
 and were feasting during die day, but after sun-set 
 they became noisy, bawling and screaming in all 
 directions. 
 
 29th. The women, in large parties, were singing 
 the whole night. After breakfast, we had a formal 
 meeting with Munaneets, to enquire respecting Ma- 
 teebe's return, as we had waited six days for the return 
 of the messengers sent in quest of him, without having 
 received any information. He said it was probable 
 he might return on the morrow or the next day. 
 After our interpreter had expressed in the hearing 
 of Munaneets what we had desired him, he made 
 no reply, till one of his people who sat on his left 
 hand repeated our inquiry. This appears to be a 
 state form. 
 
 M m
 
 266 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [18I3. 
 
 We employed the forenoon in visiting the districts 
 in the S.W. corner of the city, when we conversed a 
 little with the Headmen and others in each district* 
 We observed one man shaping a cloak from a large 
 skin, which he did very expertly. On our return we 
 saw a child, about eight years old, standing in the 
 middle of the street weeping, and, being almost a 
 skeleton, it attracted our attention. We enquired 
 respecting its disease, when the women told us, the 
 child was well enough, that want of food had brought 
 it into that state — that the father and mother were 
 poor — that he had gone away with another woman, and 
 was hunting in the south — that the mother was gone 
 to the westward, searching for food. Neither the 
 men, women nor children present seemed by their 
 countenances to express the least sympathy or feel- 
 ing for this forsaken, starving child. They said, 
 laughing, that we might take the child with us if we 
 pleased. This reminded me of what the Scripture 
 says of the dark places of the earth, that they are the 
 habitations of cruelty. I was certain that the sight of 
 this little girl in the streets of London would have 
 excited pity in the hearts of thousands. We took the 
 child to our waggons, desiring the people to inform its 
 mother, when she returned, where she might find her. 
 When some meat was given to the child, she devoured 
 it with the voracity of a tyger. Thermometer at 
 noon, 67. 
 
 At two P.M. the bustle commenced in the square, 
 by the dancing of the girls, who had made some
 
 JUNE.] RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. 267 
 
 addition to their former dresses. Some of them had 
 one side of the face painted black, and the other 
 white ; others, the upper part of the face white, 
 and the under, black. They had pieces of reeds, 
 about six inches long, strung like beads, and made 
 into the form of a petticoat, hung round them from 
 the middle almost to the ground, which made a 
 etrange noise when they danced. They had likewise 
 a great quantity of straw rope wound round them, 
 projecting twelve or fifteen inches from the middle 
 of their backs, and also in front, which gave them 
 a very odd appearance. The queen and several 
 others, who acted as musicians, by bawling aloud and 
 clapping hands, wore cloaks composed of about a 
 dozen fur tippets, hanging from their shoulders to the 
 ground, under which they had a skin cloak, without 
 the hair. A few wore leather caps, but the greater 
 part had no covering on their heads. Almost every 
 one wore sandals, except the dancing girls. 
 
 When the girls had retired, some old women brought 
 forward a horned serpent, which they drew on a flat 
 board. It was made of clay, daubed over with red, 
 white, and black paint. This being placed within the 
 circle, two women came forward, fantastically dressed, 
 who seemed to be actresses. They danced round the 
 serpent in a strange manner, with rods in their hands, 
 decked with black ostrich feathers, and keeping their 
 eyes continually directed towards the serpent, often 
 pointing to it with their rods, and then pointing to the 
 eastward, as the quarter where it had been found. 
 
 M m 2
 
 268 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 Tliey often appeared as if much terrified at the sigiit 
 of it, and suddenly sprang from it. They seemed to 
 act their parts very well, and the surrounding multi- 
 tude appeared highly entertained by this part of the 
 show. About six or seven hundred were present. 
 
 In the evening the two messengers who had been 
 sent for JMateebe returned, without having found him, 
 in consequence, as was reported to us, of one of them 
 having, on the third day, hurt his leg, which obliged 
 them to return. We had, however, secret information, 
 that having seen some wild Bushmen, they were afraid 
 to proceed, and fled back as fast as they could, but 
 being unwiUing to expose their cowardice to us, they 
 concealed the real cause of their retnrn. 
 
 A short time after tlie return of the messengers, we 
 obtained a meeting with INIunaneets, and six or seven 
 of the principal men, to consult what was now to be 
 done. After much conversation, Munaneets offered 
 to go himself, provided two of our men would ac- 
 company him with muskets to defend him from the 
 Bushmen, who were often strolling about their country; 
 provided also, that we would engage to wait his re- 
 turn. We proposed this to our people, and said we 
 should be glad if two or three of them would volun- 
 teer on the service. After considering the matter, 
 three of them offered to accompany Munaneets. We 
 proposed to go ourselves in our waggons, but that was 
 disapproved by Mateebe's council— they wished us to 
 remain in the city. We enquired if we might instruct
 
 JUNE.] RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. 269 
 
 the people in the meantime, as our situation was 
 unpleasant, having nothing to do. They said they 
 could give no answer till Mateebe came. I then told 
 them, through the interpreters, that I came from the 
 same country as Dr. Cowan, and that no doubt his 
 friends would be anxious to hear any thing concerning 
 him, and would be much obliged by their favouring 
 me with all they knew concerning him and his com- 
 pany after leaving Lattakoo. 
 
 They said that he and his people were murdered 
 near the town of Melita, about five days journey to 
 the N.E. which is in the country of the Wanketzens, 
 whose Chief's name is Makkabba. Some present, 
 especially our Bootchuana interpreter, (of whose 
 honesty we all had a good opinion,) asserted, that 
 when on a Commando along with the Wanketzens, 
 they had seen Dr. Cowan's tent, sheep, spoons, and 
 clothes. We inquired respecting the colour of the 
 clothes — they said white and red. They said they 
 were glad we had not spoken on that subject publicly, 
 as many of these Wanketzens were now in Lattakoo. 
 After a little further conversation, they told us that 
 some of the clothes were in that district of Lattakoo, 
 which we visited last Saturday. We did not deem it 
 prudent however to ask for a sight of them, unless 
 they should themselves offer it. 
 
 One thing which makes an African town appear 
 to a European as dull and deserted is, the almost 
 total absence of smoke ; but while we were walking,
 
 270 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 about sun-set, on the brow of a hill opposite to the 
 city, the fires were lighted up, it being a feast day, and 
 the cloud of smoke which in consequence hovered 
 over the city, reminded me of London. 
 
 The names of the Headmen in the districts we 
 visited this day, were, Oramussachuko, Acloo, Menat- 
 tassang, Hakkooloo, Mootcheer, and Hottoll. 
 
 30th. Thermometer at sun-rise, 40. Early in the 
 morning, Munaneets, with some of his people, and 
 three of ours, departed in search of Mateebe; and 
 he left the government of the city, in the hands of 
 Mateere, not of his brother Salakootoo as we expected.
 
 CHAP. XVIII. 
 
 LOOKING-GLASS EXCITES WONDER— QUEEN OBJECTS TO 
 OUR LEAVING THE TOWN— ENDEAVOUR TO MAKE 
 QUEEN UNDERSTAND THE USE OF WRITING AND 
 PRINTING— HER ENQUIRIES— AFRAID OF A WATCH- 
 POPULATION OF CITY— SEHOIYA— LATTAKOO WELLS. 
 
 After shaving in the forenoon, I happened to 
 shew a person himself in the looking glass which was 
 in the lid of my box, and this gave me employment 
 enough, for he ran off to bring his wife and other 
 friends to see themselves. Every one was afraid at 
 the first sight obtained, starting back from the glass ; 
 most of them looked behind the glass, to see 
 if it was no deception. The croud increased every 
 minute, and the press to get forward was so great, 
 that the tent was often in danger of being overturned. 
 They all touched some part of their face, with their 
 finger, to ascertain whether it was really themselves 
 that they saw in the mirror. When both my arms 
 were completely tired with holding the glass before 
 them, I was obliged to request a respite to some future
 
 272 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 period, and on laying it aside, they walked away 
 greatly entertained. Thermometer at noon, 70. 
 
 The dancing continued to day as usual. In the 
 morning we had proposed to Mateere, the Governor 
 of the town in absence of Munaneets, to visit a large 
 village about a day and a half's journey higher up the 
 country, to occupy our time till Mateebe's return, and 
 he engaged to accompany us. In the evening he came 
 into our tent, and sat silent for some time ; he then 
 went out, and brought with him the interpreter; 
 of course we perceived he had something to com- 
 municate. When seated, Mahootoo, the queen, en- 
 tered, and Seetezoo, the king's sister, who can speak 
 the Coranna language; she told Adam Kok, that 
 the queen was averse to our going any where till 
 Mateebe came. After some conversation, she pro- 
 posed, that if we went, we should leave part of 
 our waggons behind. We told her we never should 
 have thought of leaving Lattakoo even for a day before 
 Mateebe's return, had we been permitted to instruct 
 the people ; but that having nothing to do, we wished 
 to visit that village, and likewise to hunt, as our stock 
 was getting low. She said, that owing to the bad 
 harvest they had had, they could not supply us as 
 they wished. We then asked, why she wished part 
 of our wagg<Kis to remain behind us. She said, be- 
 cause she desired to have company, which undoubtedly 
 was not the real reason. I suppose they were afraid 
 lest Mateebe should come before we returned, and 
 would be disappointed and displeased to find no
 
 JUNE.] RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. 273 
 
 Strangers. Perceiving this, we said we would all re- 
 main with her; indeed we did not think it prudent to 
 divide our strength. 
 
 This matter being settled, we endeavoured to convey 
 some information. We explained to her the nature 
 of a letter, by means of which a person could convey 
 his thoughts to a friend at a distance. Mr. A. shewed 
 her one he had received from his wife, by which he 
 knew every thing that had happened at Klaar Water 
 for two days after he left it. This information highly 
 entertained her, especially when told that A. Kok, 
 who brought it, knew nothing of what it contained, 
 which we explained by telling her the use of sealing 
 wax. The bible being on the table gave occasion to 
 explain the nature and use of a book, particularly of 
 that book — how it informed us of God, who made 
 all things ; and of the beginning of all things, which 
 seemed to astonish her, • and many a look was directed 
 towards the bible. 
 
 Mahootoo asked the following questions, evidently 
 as things she had formerly thought of. " Will people 
 who are dead, rise up again?" " Is God under the 
 earth, or where is he?" After we had answered her 
 questions, she said, when Mateebe came home she would 
 advise him to send his servants to go and hunt jackals, 
 and remain himself at Lattakoo, for there was enough 
 for him to do. This she said to support her husband 
 in our estimation, fearing we should think less of him 
 on account of being so long engaged in hunting jackals. 
 
 N n
 
 274 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 She has three sons and two daughters. Mateebe 
 took another woman to be his wife, until Mahootoo 
 should be of age to marry, by whom he has had two 
 sons and two daughters ; but Mahootoo, though the 
 younger woman, is called the oldest queen, that her 
 son may succeed to the government. When the con- 
 versation was ended, we shewed them a watch, which 
 both astonished and terrified them. On observing the 
 work in motion, they concluded that it must be alive, 
 and on offering to put it to their ears, to hear it 
 sound, they held up their hands to drive it away as if 
 it had been a serpent. 
 
 Our interpreter said something to them which made 
 them laugh immoderately. We found he had said, 
 that before he went to Klaar Water, he was as igno- 
 rant as they were, but there he had been taught 
 many good things, which they also would be taught 
 if Mateebe permitted missionaries to settle among 
 them. 
 
 It is heart rending to witness, from morning to 
 (evening, so great a number of fine clever young people 
 playing about, having nothing to learn or to do. Their 
 parents appear to teach them nothing; for though 
 various articles are manufactured among them, yet 
 they are made, not as a trade, but for amusement in 
 the public place ; as if a London engraver were to 
 carry a plate of copper to the Royal Exchange, to 
 engrave upon, while conversing with his friends. I do 
 not know how the men treat the women at home, but
 
 3VLY.] RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. Q75 
 
 it is rare to see a man take any notice of a woman 
 out of doors. Yet the women do not appear under any 
 restraint in the presence of the men, but are free and 
 chearful. I observed one of them scold five or six men, 
 because they did not remove from a fire around which 
 they were sitting when the dancing girls were passing. 
 I understood that to be a piece of etiquette customary 
 on such an occasion. The men made no reply, but 
 continued to look stedfastly to the fire, like persons 
 conscious of having done wrong in remaining where 
 they were, but so lazy that they did not like to rise. 
 
 July 1. It is very difficult to know when these 
 people are talking, whether they are in a rage or in 
 good humour. I had generally to listen whether 
 they laughed or not before I could determine, if not 
 within sight of their countenances ; for when they 
 become the least interested in what they are saying, 
 they speak with all their might, as if addressing people 
 at a great distance. While sitting in the waggon this 
 forenoon, there was an extraordinary uproar without, 
 which made me look out to know tlie cause. Some 
 one had stolen two buttons from the trowsers of our 
 Bootchuana interpreter, and they were charging one 
 another with the theft ; but had it been the great seal 
 of England that had been stolen, there could not have 
 been a more serious affray. The thief was found, a 
 good looking young man, whom the interpreter drove 
 out of the square, in the presence of numerous spec- 
 tators, who all seemed to approve of the punishment. 
 This was the first robbery I had heard of, though many 
 
 N n 2
 
 276 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [1815. 
 
 of our things were exposed the whole day. Thermo- 
 meter at noon, 70. 
 
 This day the public shows removed to the next 
 district west from us, which afforded us much more 
 quiet. 
 
 The women here are the farmers. Even the queen 
 digs the ground along with the other females. The 
 instrument they use is a kind of pick-axe. They all 
 sing while at work, and strike the ground with their 
 axes according to time, so that no one gives a stroke 
 more than another ; thus they make labour an amuse- 
 ment. They seem in many respects to be a cleanly 
 people, having observed no filth of any kind lying 
 about their houses, nor indeed in any part of the 
 town. 
 
 From the best calculation we have been able to 
 make, there appear to be about fifteen hundred houses 
 in Lattakoo; of course, allowing five persons to each 
 house, which periiaps is a low computation, there must 
 be seven thousand five hundred inhabitants. It is re- 
 ported that they have more than a thousand places, 
 called outposts, where there are people and cattle. 
 
 2d. When at breakfast, Mooshuai, Mamulalla, and 
 Leapa, the widow of Mallayabang the late king, came 
 into the tent, and procured some tobacco, of which 
 they are all immoderately fond. Leapa is mother to 
 Mateebe. The shows returned to our square this day.
 
 JULY.] RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. ^I'T 
 
 They began by a number of women, among whom was 
 the queen, dancing in a barbarous stile, and singing, 
 not a song, but the word Jylatchee ! Aylatchee ! 
 
 There was a clever girl, about ten years of age, 
 whose name was Sehoiya, who frequently visited our 
 waggons. She sometimes tried to teach me a few of 
 their words. This day she introduced three of her 
 companions, whose names were Heylobally, Kaadje, 
 and Mama. They all became my teachers, and no 
 doubt considered me a dull scholar, for I seldom 
 pronounced a word so as to please them, but it was 
 their own fault, for no sooner had one uttered half a 
 word, than the other three caught it, and called it out 
 as loud, as if they had supposed me as deaf as a 
 rock. By this confusion of tongues, I could make 
 nothing of their teaching, and though I was the only 
 one present who perceived the cause, I could not 
 explain it to them for want of a knowledge of their 
 language. Many children were highly entertained by 
 one of our people allowing them in rotation to smoak 
 his tobacco pipe for about a minute each. From the 
 highest to the lowest they are not ashamed to beg 
 any thing. 
 
 Two boys who should have been attending their 
 father's cattle, were playing by our waggons, when 
 their father entered the square. The instant he saw 
 them, he ran towards them in the most furious savage 
 manner, and lashed them with all his might. They 
 fled as if for life, but on getting out of his reach, they
 
 278 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 appeared to have been accustomed to such treatment, 
 for they walked off with great dehberation. 
 
 When seated on the front of my waggon, the first 
 ladies of the city came and offered me their arm-rings 
 and ear-rings for a little tobacco; and the children 
 even of eight and nine years of age made most signi- 
 ficant intimations that they wanted snuff. In the 
 evening many people returned who had fled from 
 Lattakoo on our arrival, from dread that we had come 
 to revenue the death of Dr. Cowan. 
 
 'O" 
 
 When Mr. A. was engaged in prayer among us this 
 morning, a boy stood gazing at me for some time, but 
 a Matchappee observing him, in an angry tone, oi'dered 
 him off, which shewed they formed some conceptions 
 of prayer. 
 
 3d. In the morning I walked into the cattle kraal, 
 to see them milking the cows. They tie the two hind 
 legs very firmly together, then allow the old calf to 
 suck a little, without which the cows in this country 
 would give no milk. One English cow would give 
 as much milk as eight or ten African cows. 
 
 When a family desires to go to sleep during the 
 
 day, as is often the case, and do not wish to be 
 
 disturbed, they place one or two flat stones on 
 
 the outside of their door as a signal for none to 
 enter.
 
 JULY.] RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. 279 
 
 The water by which the town is supplied is obtained 
 from some holes at the end of a hill, about a mile to 
 the westward. Each hole is about a foot in diameter, 
 and two feet deep. The river Lattakoo is too distant 
 to bring it from thence. From fifty to a hundred 
 women are to be found at these little wells from 
 morning to evening. By ten o'clock in the morning, 
 all the water that has been collected during the night 
 is taken away, so that all who come later must gradu- 
 ally obtain it, as it rises from the spring. No person 
 having a head ache should approach within a hun- 
 dred yards of this well, the tongue-uproar is so great. 
 Messrs. R. A. and three of our people went in the 
 morning to dig them a proper well. By two P.M. it 
 was eight feet square, but owing to a rock, only two 
 feet and a half deep.
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 
 MATEERE'S EXPEDITION— NEWS OF THE KING'S AP- 
 PROACH—HIS ARRIVAL-LIST OF MATCHAPPEE KINGS, 
 &c.— FIRST INTERVIEW WITH THE KING— HE ASKS FOR 
 A GUN— DINING OF THE ROYAL FAMILY— PUBLIC MEET- 
 ING WITH THE KING AND HIS PEOPLE— A FROLIC- 
 KING'S ACCOUNT OF COWAN'S MURDER. 
 
 iVl ATEERE with two others paid us a visit in our 
 tent in the evening. They related an expedition for 
 stealing cattle, in which they were engaged some time 
 ago, which lasted ten months. They travelled N.W. 
 and then direct to E. till they came to a large 
 water, which probably was the Indian ocean; but 
 what astonished us was, their relating it as if it were 
 a fortunate and commendable enterprise, that they 
 came to a people who had no instruments of defence, 
 killed many of them, and carried off a great many 
 cattle. On which Mr. Anderson remarked, that the 
 more people any of these men kill, the higher it raises 
 their character ; and to murder one white man gains 
 more fame than murdering two black, and he had no 
 doubt but the murder of poor Cowan and Denovan, 
 with their party, had added greatly to the renown of
 
 JULY.] RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. 281 
 
 the Wantketzens among all the neighbouring nations. 
 At the conclusion of the conversation, Mateere told us, 
 that his dice said to him that INIateebe would be at 
 Lattakoo to-morrow. 
 
 4th. After breakfast Munaneets arrived from his 
 journey in quest of Mateebe. As he returned without 
 our three men who went to protect him, we were anxi- 
 ous to know the result, but he said he would tell 
 nothing, till he had given an account of his journey to 
 the chief men, which he soon did. They sat in a circle 
 near our waggons, when he gave an account of his journey 
 to them. When their meeting broke up, he informed us 
 that he reached Mateebe on tlie evening of the second 
 day, when our men were greatly fatigued, having killed 
 nothing for food during the journey — that he left 
 Mateebe in haste next morning, if possible to reach us 
 before we had proceeded up the country, as we had 
 proposed, that we might be at Lattakoo on the arrival 
 of Mateebe, which he expected would be on the mor- 
 row. This information gave us much satisfaction, as 
 we hardly expected him so early. 
 
 My young friend, Sehoiya, in the morning, intro* 
 duced to me four more of her companions, Euchtzee, 
 Demaymoy, Tsai, and Nakaye; all were from nine to 
 eleven years of age, and their features and figure com- 
 pleatly European, only they were black. 
 
 When at dinner in the tent, Munaneets the Governorj 
 Mateere, the Lieutenant-Governor, with two others-. 
 
 o o
 
 282 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 were present. IVIateere observed us taking a little 
 Cayenne pepper; when the redness of it attracting 
 his attention, he asked for a little, which we gave 
 him. On feeling its pungency, he shut his eyes, hastily 
 put his hand on his mouth, and held down his head. 
 He concealed his pain, and slily touched Mr. Read 
 with his foot, to intimate that he should say nothing, 
 but give the same dose to the others. iNIunaneets 
 partook next, and as soon as he could speak, he asked 
 a little for his wife. The others likewise tasted it. 
 
 5th. Two parties, as forerunners of IVIateebe, 
 arrived in the morning, and at noon he arrived him- 
 self, with many attendants carrying spears, and poles 
 dressed with black ostrich feathers, which are stuck 
 into tlie ground around places where they halt to 
 frighten away lions, who it seems are not fond of their 
 appearance. The arrival of Mateebe occasioned no 
 more stir in the town than usual. On coming into 
 the square, he took no notice of us or our waggons, 
 but acted as if ignorant that strangers were there. 
 He then with his people crouched down in the form 
 of a circle, when Mateere related to him every thing 
 that had taken place during his absence. He then 
 related tiie circumstances of his own excursion, both of 
 which speeches did not occupy ten minutes ; after 
 which, in consequence of orders, we walked up to him, 
 when, without looking towards us, he stretched out his 
 right hand, which we shook, saying to him, " Mateebe, 
 O Iss," which is the salutation given to the king. During 
 all this there was not the smallest alteration in bis
 
 JULY.] RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. 283 
 
 countenance. He appeared thoughtful, deep, and 
 cautious, extremely like the portraits I have seen 
 of Buonaparte, which were taken ten or twelve years 
 ago. 
 
 After conversing sometime with his chief men, 
 Mateebe stepped into the house which we called our 
 kitchen, sat down by the fire, and conversed with 
 Adam Kok, who accompanied us from Klaar Water, 
 evidently to sound him respecting our intentions. 
 After remaining about two hours in the square, with- 
 out appearing to notice us, he went across the road 
 to his house, having hinted to A. Kok, that when he 
 had rested, he should converse with us on the object 
 of our visit, which would be about the going down of 
 the sun. 
 
 The following is a list of their kings and royal 
 families as far back as their oldest men knew, which 
 we collected before the arrival of Mateebe. 
 
 KOOLA. 
 
 Makkoshee. 
 
 Masooche. 
 
 Malayhabang. 
 
 Salakooto, "> 
 
 > His Irotkers now living, 
 Munaneets. j 
 
 Leapa. His sister. 
 
 Mateebe. 
 
 Mahootoo, 
 
 
 Keebehelee. 3 
 
 O 2
 
 284 
 
 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. 
 
 [1813. 
 
 Mateehes Brothers. 
 
 Mateebes Sisters. 
 
 Malema. 
 
 Setezoo. 
 
 Malaala. 
 
 Koee-ee. 
 
 Mahoora. 
 
 Karoweetz. 
 
 Mapareeha. 
 
 Mareii. 
 
 Maperera. 
 
 Shuai. 
 
 Kaimakamora. 
 
 Maruvjanec. 
 
 Heekaue. 
 
 
 
 Mateebe's 
 
 Children. 
 
 SONS. 
 
 
 DAUGHTERS 
 
 Pechee. 
 
 
 Matjaragee. 
 
 Peaabooran. 
 
 
 Matzetyanee. 
 
 Jangee. 
 
 
 Maharree. 
 
 Mozebee. 
 
 
 
 All the history of these kings which \^'e could learn 
 upon the occasion of taking down their names was — 
 That during the reign of Makkoshee, the JMorolongs 
 asked from him the breast of every ox killed by his 
 people, which would have been acknowledging de- 
 pendence on him. He replied, " Am 1 then your 
 servant ?" The refusal caused a war, in which Makko- 
 shee and his people were driven to three different 
 places at considerable distances from each other. 
 
 About sun-set, Mateebe, attended by his brother 
 and some of his chief men, approached our tent. On 
 entering, he sat down and remained in silence, first to
 
 JULY.] RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. 285 
 
 receive our present, and then to hear what we had 
 to say. I made him a present of some trinkets fur- 
 nished me by the ladies 9f Kingsland, accompanied 
 by the lid of my shaving box, which happened to 
 contain a looking-glass. When taking out the dif- 
 ferent articles, I observed him slyly looking towards 
 the parcel, to discover what was coming next. During 
 the whole proceeding, he sat motionless, but when he 
 saw no more presents were coming, he condescended 
 to open his mouth, and said, " You would have been 
 perfectly safe, though you had not had Adam Kok 
 and his friends with you, or though I had received no 
 presents. So soon as I was informed by Munaneets 
 of your arrival, I came to you." He then desired 
 A Kok to consider himself as much at home in Lat- 
 takoo as at Klaar Water. On which A. Kok thanked 
 him, and told him that Mr. Anderson and Mr. Read 
 had both presents of tobacco for him. He said — 
 " Do not give me the tobacco just now-, or these 
 people, (pointing to those without the waggons) will 
 ask it all away from me." 
 
 With the advice of my two friends, I proceeded to 
 tell him, that I came from the same country, from 
 whence the missionaries had been sent to instruct 
 the nations in Africa. That I came over the great 
 water, in a wooden house, which the wind took four 
 moons in blowing to their country, to see how the 
 missionaries were acting to the African people. That 
 when I came to Klaar Water, I heard his people 
 would be glad to have teachers as well as other
 
 286 RESIDENCE AT LATrAKOO. [1813. 
 
 nations, wherefore I had undertaken a journey to 
 his country to ask his permission to send them, and 
 his protection for them when with him. He objected 
 to their coming, by saying his people had no time to 
 attend to their instructions, because they had to attend 
 to their cattle, to sowing, reaping, and many dther 
 things; " besides," said he, " the things which these 
 people teach are contrary to all our customs, which 
 the people will not give up. It would not do for them 
 to live at Lattakoo, but should they be willing to live 
 at a distance, I should have no objection to send 
 some of the children to them to learn the Dutch 
 language." 
 
 I stated to him that the teachers we should send, 
 would convey information of the true God who made 
 the heavens, the earth, and all creatures and things in 
 them — of his love to the world — of the laws he has given 
 respecting good and evil, and pointing to a bible which 
 lay on the table, I assured him that that book con- 
 tained every thing missionaries had to make known to 
 him and his people, and that when missionaries should 
 learn his language, they would change all its contents 
 into his language. He seemed, by a significant shake 
 of his head, to intimate that he considered what I said, 
 an impossibility. To convince him that things could 
 be written in his language, we read to him the names 
 of his predecessors and all his family. For the first 
 time he smiled, on hearing their names read over, and 
 seemed full of astonishment and pleasure. We then 
 assured him, that instruction would not interfere with
 
 JULY.] RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. a87 
 
 ( • ' 
 
 industry ; that the inhabitants of my country were 
 industrious, as he might be convinced of, by our 
 clothes, waggons, and so forth, which they made — 
 that his people would not be compelled to receive 
 instruction, for only those who were willing would be 
 instructed, and they would tiot interfere with his go- 
 vernment. After answering some other objections, 
 the king said, " Send instructors, and I will 
 
 BE A FATHER TO THEM." 
 
 Adam Kok, on a late journey to the Cape, having 
 with some of his people been exceedingly maltreated 
 by boors and others near Tulbach, the report of it 
 had circulated as far as Mateebe, who inquired re- 
 specting what he had suffered among the white people. 
 He also enquired respecting two boys belonging to 
 his people, who were kept in captivity by the white 
 people. He was informed that I would enquire about 
 them, when I returned to the colony.* The king then 
 rose up, shook hands with each of us, and went 
 away. 
 
 We could not avoid wishing that our English 
 friends could have witnessed this scene, and it certainly 
 was remarkable that it happened on the evening of 
 the first Monday in the month, when christians in 
 most quarters of the world were met to pray for the 
 
 * The Landdrost of Tulbach engaged afterwards to make en- 
 quiry respecting these boys.
 
 288 RESIDENCE AT LAITAKOO. [i813. 
 
 extension of Christs kingdom throughout the earth. 
 The time of meeting was not selected by us, but by 
 a heathen king, who knew nothing of what christians 
 were about. We had our prayer and thanksgiving 
 meeting in the square after the business was over. 
 
 6th. After breakfast I walked over to the king s house, 
 and made a present of a pair of earrings to each of 
 the queens. JMateebe now embraced the opportunity 
 to ask what seemed to have all along been in his 
 heart, viz. for a gun. I assured him I had not one 
 gun. He said he had seen us have plenty. I told 
 him the guns he had seen were not mine, but every 
 gun belonged to the person who had it, and that 
 I had put myself under their protection — that we 
 had a long journey of several moons yet before us, 
 intending to cross over to the Namacqua country, and 
 that as a great part of the journey was to be among 
 wild Bushmen, he would certainly think we had not 
 more than was necessary. Then, said he, Adam Kok 
 must give his gun for mine, which is a bad one. 
 
 The roi^al family were at dinner, in the corner of 
 their yard, outside the house. The king s distinction 
 seemed to consist in his sitting next the pot that 
 contained the boiled beans, on which they were dining, 
 and having the only spoon we saw, with which he 
 helped himself and his friends, by putting a portion 
 into each hand as it was held out to him. One of 
 the princesses was employed in cutting, with an axe, 
 a dried paunch, into small pieces, and putting them
 
 JULY.] RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. 289 
 
 into a pot to be boiled, either to compleat that repast, 
 or to serve for another soon after. One of Mateebe's 
 sisters was cutting up a filthy looking piece of flesh, 
 and putting it into the same pot. Certainly an 
 Englishman would be dying for want of food, before 
 he accepted an invitation to dine with the king of 
 Lattakoo ; otherwise the sight of his dinner would 
 afford more pain than pleasure. These people are 
 far from possessing nice stomachs, for they can eat, 
 with relish, the flesh of elephants, lions, tygers, camel- 
 leopards, quachas, &c. Yesterday I observed one of 
 them kill a goat by thrusting into its belly a long awl, 
 which appeared a cruel operation, but it is their 
 method. 
 
 At noon we had a public meeting in the square by 
 desire of Mateebe, with himself, and as many of his 
 chief men as chose to attend. The king was seated 
 Qn one of our stools ; I sat on his right, Mr. Read on 
 his left, and Mr. Anderson next. Our two inter- 
 preters sat on the ground before us, and the chief 
 men and the people sat in half circles beyond them. 
 We began by stating the truths which our missionaries 
 would teach. Mateebe repeated how little leisure his 
 people had to learn. We told him we had daily observed 
 many men, women and children doing nothing, and 
 that a missionary would have plenty of work to 
 teach such. He expressed surprize, that if all men 
 came from one father and mother, they so differed 
 from one another. We observed that in one family 
 
 p p
 
 290 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 the dispositions of children often differed. He said 
 the missionaries would be safe, for when two of his 
 people murdered John Kok, he brought them to his 
 wife to shoot them, that when she would not, he did 
 it. We told him that in that case he acted according 
 to the directions in our book, which says, " He that 
 sheddeth mans blood, by man shall his blood be 
 shed. He said, " Whenever the missionaries have 
 got enough, they shall be at liberty to depart," having 
 no idea that they can have any other view of coming 
 but gain. He said, " I believe there is a God who 
 made all things, who gives prosperity, sickness, and 
 death, but I do not know him." The knowledge he 
 has, undoubtedly came from the missionary station at 
 Klaar Water. About a hundred persons were present, 
 and the conversation lasted t^vo hours. 
 
 In the afternoon a person stated as an objection to 
 missionaries coming, " that when praying, they would 
 not see the enemy coming upon them" — and another 
 said, " they never would be able to sing." 
 
 One of our people overheard Mateebe say to some 
 of his people, who were sitting at a fire in our kitchen 
 — " These men have been born before us — they know 
 more than us — they make us dumb." 
 
 Mateebe mentioned, that when on an expedition along 
 with the Wanketzens, Makkabba their chief, and his 
 servant appeared at a dance dressed in the clothes of
 
 JUNE.] RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. 291 
 
 Dr. Cowan, red and striped. He advised him to treat 
 white people as he did, and he would get such thing* 
 also. 
 
 About the going down of the sun we heard an 
 uproar in front of Mateebe's house ; the greatest scuffle 
 in the streets of London deserves to be called stillness 
 compared to it. We understood it was only a frolic. 
 They continued outside the square till our worship was 
 over, whether purposely or not I cannot tell, but then 
 they sallied in and danced, sang, clapped hands, roared, 
 and played on some instruments till about nine o clock, 
 when they suddenly retired. Mateebe, JVIunaneets, and 
 Mateere, the three principal men in Lattakoo, attended 
 our evening worship. The two latter came to our 
 tent afterwards, the former of these (Munaneets,) all 
 of us were attached to. There was something ap- 
 parently mild, amiable, sincere, and friendly in his 
 deportment. He told us he had much grief at the 
 returning of the three men he sent in search of Ma- 
 teebe without finding him ; he determined to trust no 
 other, and that was the reason why he went himself. 
 He also wished to prepare the mind of Mateebe to 
 accede to our wishes. He promised to visit Klaar 
 Water next moon, to hear more of these things. 
 
 After the arrival of Mateebe, Salakootoo his uncle, 
 a noisy, impudent and forward man, hardly ever ap- 
 peared in the square; before, he was constantly visit- 
 ing and teazing us for something. Whether he was in 
 disgrace for his frequent robberies or not, I do not 
 
 p p 2
 
 292 KESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 know. We were not troubled with people crouding 
 into our tent after Mateebe's arrival, which shews his 
 influence to be powerful. 
 
 News arrived this day, that Makrakka, the chief 
 who revolted from Mateebe, and IMakkabba, the 
 Wanketzen Chief, with whom he formed an alliance, 
 had had a difference, and that Makkabba threatens 
 an attack after seed time. Some of his people, from 
 dread of this attack, have left him and taken refuge 
 in Lattakoo. The people in the west end of the town 
 (which is the court end,) are of opinion, that Mak- 
 krakka will return and submit to Mateebe. 
 
 When expressing doubts to Mateebe of the murder 
 of Dr. Cowan, he said " You may depend upon it, 
 they are murdered, and the waggons burned — that 
 when among the Wanketzens, he observed some of the 
 barrels of the guns used in smoothing the seams of 
 their skin cloaks — that when on an expedition against 
 Makrakka's people, he found a Wanketzen woman, 
 •who told him that they had first taken the loose cattle 
 and sheep from Dr. Cowan, that then a party went to 
 inform Dr. Cowan of what the others had done, and 
 that when they were preparing to set off in pursuit 
 of the robbers, these men seized and murdered them. 
 
 Further accounts of the Wanketzens. 
 Tiie Wanketzens are the next tribe or nation north of 
 Lattakoo ; they are numerous, treacherous, and cruel.
 
 jwLY.j RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. 393 
 
 Through them the Matchappees (Mateebe's people,) 
 obtain their copper rings, which are reported to be 
 made, not by them, though the copper mountains are in 
 their country, but by a nation to the eastward of them, 
 or nearer to the Indian ocean. An instance of the 
 treachery of the Wanketzens happened lately. They 
 obtained a party of Matchappees and Corannas to 
 assist them in an expedition beyond them. On their 
 arrival they marched together to attack the enemy. 
 On the field of battle, before it commenced, the 
 Wanketzens left the Matchappees and Corannas to 
 light it by themselves, when about eighty of them 
 were killed. They considered this transaction as a 
 snare laid for them. 
 
 It was while on this expedition that they learned 
 the fate of poor Cowan and his company. They said 
 that these people watched an opportunity when he 
 and his people might be separated, which soon oc- 
 curred, when Dr. C. and Lieutenant Denovan were 
 bathing in a pool at a little distance from their wag- 
 gons, and the cattle and sheep were feeding in another 
 direction, guarded by part of the people. Those who 
 guarded the cattle were first attacked and overcome, 
 then the people at the waggons, and last of all the 
 Doctor and his companion. Only one escaped, a man 
 belonging to Klaar Water, who fled to Makrakka, 
 by whom he also was murdered. Thus not one was 
 left to carry back tidings of the catastrophe, which 
 took place near the city of Melita, under the direction 
 of Makkabba, who has absolute power over his people ;
 
 294 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 his orders, however hazardous the service, must be 
 obeyed. An instance in proof of this was stated to us. 
 John Bloom, a desperado, had put himself at the head 
 of a plundering party : when he and his party were in 
 the country of the Wanketzens, their chief ordered 
 one of his people to go and murder John. The man 
 went and murdered another person instead of John 
 Bloom, and then fled, but being pursued, he was over- 
 taken and put to death. 
 
 The following is an account of the journey of John 
 Hendric, a Griquaa, to the fFank'etzens, an he 
 related it at Lattakoo. 
 
 His object was to shoot, aud to barter for cattle. 
 He came first to Lattakoo, from whence he travelled 
 eastward to a people called by the Matchappees, Red 
 Caffres, but whose real name is Tamakka. They ap- 
 peared to be a mongrel race, between the Matchappees 
 and Bushmen, and they paint themselves red. Their 
 houses are round and made of reeds, like those of the 
 Corannas, but better constructed, and kept cleaner. 
 They are not so tall as the people at Lattakoo ; they 
 have cattle, sheep, and goats, and live together in 
 towns, but not so large as those of the Matchappees. 
 They sow corn, pumpkins, &c. The first of their 
 villages lies four days' journey from Lattakoo, and the 
 chiefs name is Reebe. 
 
 From thence he went to the city of Moosso, a 
 chief of the Morolongs, who is cousin to Makrakka
 
 JULY.] RESIDENCE AT LAITAKOO. 295 
 
 and Lesooma. They are children of three brothers, 
 who could not agree who should be chief; wherefore 
 they separated and became independent. Moosso 
 and Lesooma live in one town, which is much larger 
 than Lattakoo, perhaps containing ten or twelve thou- 
 sand inhabitants. It lies six days' journey, N.E. from 
 Reebe. Their manners and customs are nearly the 
 same as the Matchappee:* at Lattakoo. 
 
 Leaving Moosso, he travelled north to the Wan- 
 ketzens, and in three days reached the town of Melita, 
 which is under the government of Makkabba. His 
 father and grandfather were both of the name of 
 Wanketz, in consequence of which their people were 
 called Wanketzens. Melita is smaller than Moosso : 
 the language, manners, and customs, are nearly the 
 same as the other Bootchuana nations, only they have 
 large store-houses for containing provisions, and large 
 earthen vessels for holding their corn. They cultivate 
 more ground, and have greater abundance of corn, 
 beans, peas, and water melons, than any of their 
 neighbours. They do not paint themselves so much 
 as Mateebe's people — are cleanly in their houses, in 
 cooking and eating. The air is more damp than 
 towards the Great River. The grass is more sour, 
 with a flat leaf, resembling what grows near the sea 
 coast. In some parts the woods are extensive. The 
 thorn, a tree known at the Cape by the name of 
 white-tree, and another called there the waggon-tree, 
 abound in the country of the Wanketzens. The
 
 2^6 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 Chief e-xercises more authority than any other of the 
 Bootchuanas, and his commands ai'e implicitly obeyed. 
 
 John Hendric returned in a westerly direction by 
 the town of Makrakka and the river Moloppo, from 
 whence he reached Klaar Water, where he soon 
 after learned that Makkabba had a design to murder 
 him and his companions, and ^vould accomplish it if 
 he ever returned.
 
 CHAP. XX. 
 
 THE FOLLOWING IS AN ACCOUNT OF COUNTRIES 
 BEYOND LATTAKOO, RECEIVED FROM MATEEBE AND 
 OTHERS. 
 
 1 HE first nation to the N.E. is a people called 
 Makquanas, whose chiefs name is Seechaama. Their 
 city is three times the size of Lattakoo : their man- 
 ners and customs are in every respect the same : they 
 are exceedingly rich in cattle. The Wanketzens are 
 continually at war with them for the sake of plunder. 
 
 Beyond the Makquanas, are the Magalatzinas, from 
 whom the former and other tribes obtain articles of 
 clothing, and beads of European manufacture. They 
 ride upon elephants, and use buffaloes to draw car- 
 riages — are of brown complexion, and have long 
 hair. 
 
 Next to them, E.S.E. of the Wanketzens, are the 
 Maklootuas, after whom come the Moonsho}»anes ; 
 
 Q q
 
 298 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 then the Mookoobes; then the Makoanees; then the 
 Bakquanes ; be)?ond them the Boramateezas ; then the 
 Legoeeyas ; then the Bochakapeeles ; then the Bamoots- 
 laatzas ; then the Borapootzaans ; then the Bakotes ; 
 then the Mapantues. 
 
 On the south side of the Yellow River are the 
 Moleezanyanas, and beyond them in a N.E. direction 
 toward Delagoa Bay, are the Maquapas; and beyond 
 them, in the same direction, the Matzslakoo. A nation 
 of Cannibals are reported by the Matchappees to live 
 beyond them. The same also is reported by Hotten- 
 tots and Bushmen. 
 
 A nation east from the Wanketzens are called the 
 Marootzees, whose chief's name is Seebechoone, and 
 they are similar in manners to them. They sow corn 
 and tobacco, and abound in cattle. Their city is larger 
 than Lattakoo, and their cattle kraal, (or inclosure for 
 securing cattle in the night time,) is so large that they 
 frequently graze in it. It is said to be cold, perhaps 
 on account of standing in an elevated situation. The 
 grass is peculiarly short and sweet. The country 
 abounds in wood, particularly in one sort called 
 Mangyena, (of which they make large bowls,) which 
 grows tall and thick. They have another tree, called 
 Magguana, and a black wood called Mola, which is 
 very beautiful. From that nation the Matchappees 
 obtain copper rings which they manufacture, and iron 
 for making their assagays. The Marootzees get their 
 copper from the mountains. The ore is said to re-
 
 JULY.] RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. 299 
 
 ' — 
 
 sernble the earth when dug from the mountain, after 
 which they smelt it, and manufacture it into various 
 articles. The iron is dug out in stones, and undergoes 
 the same operation. Tiiose who work in the mines are 
 said seldom to come out of them, which appears as if 
 they were condemned to that employment. Near the 
 Marootzee is a river which runs to the eastward, either 
 into the Great River near its source, or into some other 
 river which loses itself in the Indian Ocean. The river 
 Moloppo rises in the country of the Wanketzens, and 
 runs into the Krooman. The Marootzees are two 
 days' journey from the Wanketzens ; and these are five 
 days' Journey from Lattakoo. 
 
 The folloxving is an account of the journey of 
 Mooteere, who is generally employed by Mateebe 
 as ambassador to other chiefs, related by 
 himself. 
 
 He went with a party on a plundering expedition 
 gome time ago. He travelled first to the north by Honey 
 Valley, and afterwards west. They travelled over exten- 
 sive deserts, destitute of water, but wild water melons 
 were a substitute for food and drink : these they found in 
 abundance strewed over the desert. After a journey of 
 five months, they reached a nation called Mampoor, 
 who reside on a great water, across which they could 
 observe no land, and on which they observed the sun to 
 set. They saw the people go on the water in bowls, 
 
 (by which they no doubt meant boats,) and had pieces 
 Q q 2
 
 300 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 of timber which they put into the water, and pushed 
 themselves forward. He remarked that they were a 
 peaceable and unsuspecting people — that he murdered 
 a great many of them, and took away their cattle, with 
 which they returned in five moons to Lattakoo. Those 
 whom they did not kill fled, and left them to carry off 
 their cattle without molestation. Since Mootere's re- 
 turn, Salakootoo, the king's uncle, has made several 
 successful expeditions against the same people. 
 
 Thefolloxvirig is an account of places known to the 
 Griquaas, xvho were with us at Lattakoo. 
 
 WEST FROM LATTAKOO. 
 
 Patanee is distant three days' journey. The chiefs 
 name is Leyeisy, and the number of inhabitants about 
 fifteen hundred. They sow corn, pumpkins, beans, 
 &c. Their houses and manners are the same as at 
 Lattakoo. Leyeisy, during the hunting months, viz. 
 from May to September, resides at Kuissee, six days' 
 journey N.W. of Lattakoo. This people were more 
 dependant on the former king of Lattakoo than they 
 are on the present. Their connexion at present con- 
 sists in their not engaging in any wars or expeditions 
 without Mateebe's consent; and it is probable their 
 receiving missionaries must depend on the will of 
 Mateebe. In all other respects they appear per- 
 fectly independent.
 
 jvLT.] RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. 301 
 
 NORTH OF LATTAKOO. 
 
 Chue, which means the Honey Valle}'', lies between 
 three and four days' journey from Lattakoo. The 
 inhabitants are called Maakaraharee, or Poor Boo- 
 tchuanas, because they neither have, nor, in their pre- 
 sent situation, can have cattle or sheep. Their chiefs 
 name is Leevekue ; yet they acknowledge themselves 
 dependant on the neighbouring chiefs and rich persons 
 around. Their sons, for example, acknowledge them- 
 selves to be, to a certain degree, in subjection to the 
 son of him whom their father served. They hunt with 
 the dogs belonging to these rich men : the skins also 
 of the animals they kill they bring to these men ; the 
 rest is their own. Should they kill an elephant, the 
 teeth jnust be brought to these superiors. They not 
 only use the assagay in hunting, but also, like the 
 Bushmen, dig deep holes in the ground to take the 
 animals. When called out to assist in plundering 
 expeditions against their neighbours, all they acquire 
 must be given to their superiors, and they depend 
 upon their generosity for any share. They are not 
 permitted to wear cloaks of jackals' skins, or any dress 
 which indicates rank or fortune : they only wear such 
 skins as are not worn by the rich. Though numerous, 
 they live in a scattered manner, only an inconsiderable 
 number live with the chief. As a reward for their la- 
 bours, they receive from the rich families to whom they 
 are in subjection, assagays and tobacco. They are 
 under the protection of Mateebe and Leyeise in case 
 they are attacked, who discountenance any intercourse
 
 302 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. [1813. 
 
 between them and the people nearer the colony, who 
 bring articles of trade. 
 
 NORTH-EAST FROM LATTAKOO. 
 
 The town of Setaabee lies on a river of the same 
 name, which in the rainy season is a branch of the 
 Meloppo, which is a day's journey, to the eastward of 
 Setaabee. Setaabee lies seven days' journey from 
 Lattakoo. Five years ago this was the residence of 
 Makrakka, from whence he was driven by Malla- 
 yabang, Mateebe's father. This was occasioned by 
 Makrakka's people stealing cattle from the subjects 
 of Mallayabang. Part of his subjects revolted and 
 joined Mallayabang; and the rest, to the number of 
 about two thousand, went with him to live in the vici- 
 nity of the Wanketzens. 
 
 The river Meloppo, which comes from the east- 
 ward, has a broad and strong current till it reaches 
 Setaabee, when running among many large and deep 
 holes, and over flat marshy ground, it is so weakened 
 before it joins the Krooman river at Kuissee, that it is 
 completely dry except in the rainy season. All the 
 rivers in the vicinity of the Meloppo, as well as those 
 between the Krooman and Lattakoo, in the rainy sea- 
 son empty themselves into the Krooman, which then 
 runs into the Great River; but in all other seasons 
 not a drop reaches that river. 
 
 To the west of Kuissee the country is inhabited by 
 poor Bootchuanas and Bushmen, across Africa to
 
 JULY.] RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. 303 
 
 the Namacqua and Damara countries. It is reported 
 tliat beyond Teunee to the N.W. there is a people 
 called Ghou Damara, who are numerous and have 
 cattle, and also houses resembling those of the 
 Corannas. 
 
 Some years ago a party of Bastard Hottentots, 
 with waggons and cattle, were hunting among the 
 Bootchuanas. At a town where they were, the chief 
 made them a present of two oxen to kill, one tame, 
 the other wild. The last ran oft", and the greater 
 part of the Hottentots ran in pursuit of it. While thus 
 scattered and entirely off" their guard, the Bootchuanas 
 fell upon them and murdered the whole party. 
 
 Two brothers of the name of Grika some years ago 
 fled from the colony, in consequence of having com- 
 mitted forgery; the one was trodden to death by an 
 elephant he had wounded, the other accompanied Dr. 
 Cowan, and was murdered along with him. 
 
 A party of Bootchuanas, when hunting wild horses,, 
 came to a pool frequented by these animals in the 
 night time for drink. They lay down near it to wait 
 their arrival. About midnight they heard the approach 
 of animals which they concluded were wild horses, on 
 which all, except one who was asleep, hastened to 
 attack them. By the light of the moon they dis- 
 covered that instead of wild horses it was a herd of 
 young elephants, which are most dangerous to ap- 
 proach. On this discovery every one fled from them
 
 304 
 
 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. 
 
 [1813. 
 
 as fast as possible. When they returned to the pool in 
 the morning, they found their companion, whom they 
 had left asleep, trodden to death by the elephants, and 
 his body as flat as a board. Upon another occasion, 
 when a party were hunting elephants and had wounded 
 several, one turned upon them, caught hold of a man 
 with his trunk, and threw him on the ground between 
 his fore legs that he might tread him to death ; but 
 the man happily got from under him and ran off; but 
 from the bruise he received from the animal's trunk, 
 and the fright, his life was for some time despaired of. 
 The Bootchuanas observe such indications of wisdom 
 in the elephants, that they do not consider them as 
 beasts, but a species of very superior animals. 
 
 
 . I ) io 
 
 u»i: ^..j 10 ■:. 
 
 
 
 BOOTCHUANA WORDS. 
 
 
 Macookoo 
 
 et/e 
 
 Loonowho 
 
 foot 
 
 Moorluch 
 
 hair 
 
 Moomo 
 
 leg 
 
 Inco 
 
 nose 
 
 LemoUe 
 
 knee 
 
 Moolon 
 
 mouth 
 
 Lechabchoo, 
 
 > sun 
 
 Menno 
 
 teeth 
 
 also Satzee 
 
 Chehbey 
 
 ear 
 
 Moo 
 
 earth 
 
 Luleme 
 
 tongue 
 
 Shekoonoo 
 
 elbow 
 
 Mouanwa 
 
 finger 
 
 Kamma 
 
 cloak 
 
 Lunalla 
 
 nail 
 
 Lekallo 
 
 ring 
 
 Seakka 
 
 hand 
 
 Mabelle 
 
 corn 
 
 Lechocho 
 
 arm 
 
 Hailla 
 
 hear you 
 
 Shilelu 
 Leehulee 
 
 chin 
 shoulder 
 
 Haracho, also 
 Haare 
 
 {father 
 
 Leshamma 
 
 cheek 
 
 Macho 
 
 mother
 
 ;'-M 
 
 MoflttAman/is Wmpons.
 
 JULY.] 
 
 RESIDENCE AT LATTAKOO. 
 
 305 
 
 , ^ — ■ . , — 
 
 Kanseriage 
 Quanage 
 Munaaoo 
 Menaate 
 
 sister 
 child 
 brother 
 delicious 
 
 C south east 
 Peooa amora, < . , 
 t wind. 
 
 Which is sometimes called 
 Buskmens wind, because they 
 live in that direction. 
 
 Mutchucoo 
 
 tobacco 
 
 Bossikoo 
 
 dark 
 
 Sebaata 
 
 smiff box 
 
 Kuylu 
 
 moon 
 
 Tchona 
 
 our 
 
 Linaree 
 
 stars 
 
 Keeoo 
 
 that 
 
 Kamma 
 
 "^before sun 
 
 Ohella 
 
 in 
 
 kookoo 
 
 3 rise 
 
 Huremo 
 
 heaven 
 
 Satzee oprima 
 
 sunset 
 
 Linayahaat- 
 choch 
 
 / thy name 
 
 Mootzeekoore 
 Moohella 
 
 day 
 
 one 
 
 Mash 
 
 milk 
 
 Hoobeede 
 
 two 
 
 Seho 
 
 a calabash 
 
 Hoorugh 
 
 three 
 
 Mahove 
 
 pottage 
 
 Hoone 
 
 four 
 
 Mootzoo 
 
 water 
 
 Hoochanoo 
 
 five 
 
 Leina kohoms 
 
 ^ what is your 
 (. name 
 
 Marrootar 
 Quaslioopa 
 
 six 
 seven 
 
 Ae 
 
 yes 
 
 Quareha 
 
 eiffht 
 
 Wenna patta- 
 
 lyou report 
 
 Quahera 
 
 nine 
 
 leets 
 
 S of me 
 
 Shoome 
 
 ten 
 
 
 Cthc saluta- 
 •x tioji to 
 V- the king 
 
 Hootcha 
 
 eleven 
 
 Mateebe O iss 
 
 Hoobedee 
 
 twelve 
 
 
 Hoovaroo 
 
 thirteen 
 
 Lere quama 
 
 give me 
 
 Hoonai 
 
 fourteen 
 
 Nya 
 
 no 
 
 Hootamioo 
 
 fifteen 
 
 Poola 
 
 rain 
 
 Hoorataroo 
 
 sixteen 
 
 Marco 
 
 clouds 
 
 Quashoopoo 
 
 seventeen 
 
 Peehoo ha- 
 poola 
 
 > rainy wind 
 
 Mebelee 
 Moongahail 
 
 eig-hteen 
 nineteen 
 
 Peoua mocony 
 
 east wind. 
 
 Shoome shoome twentu. 
 
 R r
 
 CHAP. XXI. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM LATTAKOO. 
 
 A HE children in general are cheerful and playful, 
 but their diversions do not appear to be numerous. 
 The only ones I observed were — beating each other 
 with wands, and defending themselves with their little 
 skin cloaks, using them as shields — beating sand with 
 sticks towards each other — shooting with bows and 
 arrows — two parties throwing small pieces of turf at 
 each other — and throwing pieces of wood in imitation 
 of assagays or darts. 
 
 7 th. We began early in the morning to prepare for 
 leaving Lattakoo. Mateebe made a present of an ox 
 to Mr. Read, and another to myself, which he said was 
 the custom of his father Mallayabang, when visited by 
 strangers. We stated that we had heard he and his 
 people intended to remove to the Krooman river, three 
 days journey nearer to Klaar Water, and we should 
 like to know whether it was his design so to do. He
 
 JULY.] DEPARTURE FROM LATTAKOO. 307 
 
 said they would only remove, for the present, to Latta- 
 koo river, which is over the hill about two miles south 
 of where the city now stands, and there they would 
 remain until the missionaries came, and would consult 
 with them about their greater removal. He then 
 asked for a neckcloth ; we presented him with two — 
 one he put round his neck, and the other over his head 
 as a night cap, which compleatly distinguished him 
 from all his subjects — but they were soon nearly red 
 with the paint with which his body was covered. 
 
 As Mr. Anderson had invited the poor woman and 
 her two starving children to Klaar Water, because no 
 creature at Lattakoo would assist her, we asked Ma- 
 teebe's permission. " O yes," said he, " you may 
 take them." 
 
 I wished to find my young friend Sehoiya, and on 
 calling out her name, it was repeated by the children 
 as loud as they could bawl, which soon brought her, 
 when I presented her with about a yard of gilt chain, 
 with which she ran off to shew it to her parents. 
 
 As they had neither fowls, nor ducks, nor geese, 
 the introduction of these would gready assist them — 
 as also of potatoes, onions, cabbages, beans. Oak trees, 
 which grow well in the colony, might also be planted, and 
 afford a pleasing shelter from the sun's rays in summer. 
 
 Our waggons moved to the outside of the square as 
 our oxen were yoked to them, amidst the shouts of 
 
 R r 2
 
 308 DEPARTURE FROM LATTAKOO. [ISVS. 
 
 hundreds of spectators. In conversation Mateebe 
 observed, that some of his people died by the hand of 
 God, and others by witchcraft. 
 
 About a month ago, Makkabba sent another chief, 
 who is residing with him at present, on an expedition 
 against a neighbouring chief, in which he killed that 
 chief, and carried away all the cattle, which must have 
 reduced that people to a most miserable condition, for 
 the dependence of all in this part of Africa is chiefly 
 on their cattle. It is very probable that Makkabba's 
 success on this occasion arose from his having Dr. 
 Cowan s guns, powder, and shot. 
 
 The desire for knowing the interior of Africa is very 
 strong in Europe, and probably it can only be gratified 
 by missionaries gradually penetrating into the country. 
 Missionary stations are surrounded by moral atmos- 
 pheres, or have a moral and civilizing influence to a con- 
 siderable distance around, beyond which it is extremely 
 hazardous for white men to go. But when a missionary 
 settlement has existed some time at Lattakoo, another 
 may easily be introduced among the Wanketzens and 
 others, who on their visits to Lattakoo will become 
 acquainted with the missionaries, — will witness the 
 advantage derived from their residence among that 
 people — will hear various things which the missionaries 
 teach, and on their return to their own lands will report 
 w hat their eyes have seen, and their ears heard. This 
 intelligence will probably produce a desire that mis- 
 sionaries may visit them also, and thus invitations will
 
 JULY.] DEPARTURE FROM LATTAKOO. 309 
 
 be sent to Lattakoo, requesting that white men may 
 be sent to instruct them also. 
 
 The waggons being nearly all ready, I mounted to 
 my seat. Mateebe came and leaned with his head on 
 the side of the wagson where I sat for several minutes, 
 
 CO ' 
 
 till a person pointed out his danger from the wheel, 
 should the oxen move. 
 
 Mateebe, who seemed at first to have a forbidding 
 aspect, every hour grew in our estimation, and I felt 
 much at parting from him. Not one article had been 
 stolen or taken forcibly from any of us, except two 
 buttons, for which the culprit was driven out of the 
 public squara 
 
 To teach these Matchappees to sit on chairs instead 
 of the ground, or to sleep on beds instead of skins, or 
 to eat with knives and forks at a table instead of their 
 fingers, would be no easy task, but they consider such 
 drilling as this to be the chief object of missionaries 
 coming among them, not being able to conceive the 
 wonderful importance of receiving the knowledge of 
 revealed truth, as connected either with their present 
 or everlasting interests.
 
 CHAP. XXII. 
 
 JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. 
 
 FROM LATTAKOO TO MALAPEETZEE. 
 
 July 7th, 1813. 
 
 JlLXACTLY at noon our waggons began to move 
 from Lattakoo, surrounded by a gazing multitude. 
 Our journey was now to be directed eastward, to a 
 part of Africa hitherto unexplored by any European 
 traveller; but having heard that a considerable number 
 of people inhabited these parts, who would be acces- 
 sible by missionaries, we deemed it desirable to pay 
 them a visit, in hope of being able hereafter to send 
 missionaries among them. 
 
 While moving from Lattakoo, I could not but con- 
 tinue looking back towards it, so long as it remained 
 visible, as an interesting place — a city which may yet 
 become a Jerusalem to Africa. Paul had talents, 
 before his conversion, suited to the work he had to 
 perform after it. In point of natural abilities, they ap- 
 peared to me superior to any of the African nations we 
 had seen. They are a sprightly and ingenious people.
 
 jULY.J JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. 311 
 
 At two, P.M. we halted at a brook called Kookoo, 
 (or Sunrise,) perhaps because it lies east from Lat- 
 takoo, where we filled our water vessels. At three, 
 P.M. we halted for a while at a small shepherd's 
 place, called Mallamatchoo, which lies near another 
 brook of water. Around both places many cattle were 
 feeding among high grass. At four, P.M. we passed 
 another shepherd's place called Kakania. At six in 
 the evening we halted at the side of a wood, where 
 there was no water. The water was two miles further, 
 but we purposely halted here, lest our fires should 
 frighten away the buffaloes, which we hoped to shoot 
 in the morning on their way to that water. 
 
 We travelled all day over ground which had a 
 gentle ascent, with a hilly country to the north and 
 south : the first part of our journey lay to the E. and 
 the last to the N.E. The country before us had the 
 appearance of a com field, bounded by the horizon. 
 Thermometer at noon, 68. 
 
 8th. In the morning the ground was covered with 
 hoar frost. Just before sun-rise we killed a buffalo 
 and her calf, which gave great pleasure to the eleven 
 Matchappees who accompanied us as guides. They 
 petitioned very earnestly for the breast of the calf, 
 which is the part allotted to the Bootchuana chiefs of 
 every beast that is killed. They seemed truly anxious 
 to taste this forbidden part ; of course they bear the 
 image of father Adam.
 
 312 JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. [1813, 
 
 . The morning light discovered to us many a veteran 
 tree that had withstood the storms of past ages, but 
 was now crumbUng to pieces by the hand of time. 
 At nine, A.M. we went forward ; our dogs soon dis- 
 covered a httle water among reeds, to which some of 
 our people ran, and drank along with the dogs, who 
 would not part with their right. After proceeding a 
 little further we halted in front of a wood, near water. 
 Thermometer at sun-rise (seven) 34 : at noon 60. 
 
 This was a very busy forenoon to our Matchappeesi 
 for we abounded in buffalo flesh, and they employed 
 their time diligently in roasting and devouring it. They 
 seemed as if they feared that such an opportunity for 
 feasting would never occur again. When sitting by the 
 firej they were cooking with one hand and feeding them- 
 selves with the other : if they left the fire for a little 
 time, they were sure to carry a large bone in their 
 hand, picking it as they walked, and when it was 
 done they returned for more. We named this Alers 
 Fountain. 
 
 Our sheep having strayed, we could not depart till 
 three, P.M. when our journey continued among tall 
 grass and bushes until six, P.M. when we halted at a 
 fountain of water. Some of our people had killed a 
 buflfalo, which lay at a little distance; but having 
 heard lions and wolves at hand^ it was judged prudent 
 to defer cutting it up till the morning, judging it better 
 that the carcase should be exposed to the ravenous 
 lions, than our own people.
 
 JULY.] JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. 313 
 
 9th. Having been continually ascending ever since 
 we left Lattakoo, we were now on high ground, which 
 the thermometer seemed to indicate at sun-rise, for 
 then it stood at 24, and the ice was half an inch thick. 
 As the cattle had strayed among the bushes, we could 
 not depart till ten, A.M. We took into our waggons, 
 as we passed, the buffalo that was killed the night 
 before, which neither lions nor wolves had discovered. 
 It was all cut to pieces before we reached it, chiefly 
 by the Matchappees. At eleven, A.M. we passed a 
 pool of pure water, which we named Newton Foun- 
 tain, in memory of the late valuable rector of St. 
 Mary Woolnoth. By the number of buffalo-paths 
 leading to that fountain, it must be frequented by 
 very many. We observed smoke ascending at a dis- 
 tance to the north, from the burning of withered grass. 
 The whistling of our Matchappees so much resembled 
 the singing of birds, that 1 was often at a loss to dis- 
 tinguish between them. Thermometer at noon, 60. 
 
 At noon we saw numerous flocks of springbucks; 
 and some of our people fell in with some wandering 
 Bushmen, who appeared to menace them. Distant 
 hills to the eastward came in view, and a plain, which, 
 in most directions, had no visible termination. This 
 we named Bogue Plain. At five, P.M. we arrived 
 at a Bootchuana Bushman village, which had the 
 appearance of extreme wretchedness. It is called 
 Marabay, which is the name of a plentiful fountain 
 and stream of excellent water, at a few hundred yards 
 distance. At this fountain we took up our residence 
 
 s s
 
 314 JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. [1813 
 
 for the night. The people were greatly alarmed at 
 our approach, not knowing what to make of us, having 
 very probably never seen waggons or white people 
 before. The village was composed of ten huts, shaped 
 like an inverted tea-cup. 
 
 Here I took down the names of the Matchappees 
 who accompanied us as guides to Malapeetzee. 
 
 1. Maroomachia, 
 
 2. Machanoo, 
 
 3. Tow, 
 
 4. Leraa, 
 
 5. TchehovrCy 
 
 6. Liquagee, 
 
 7. Carosooe, 
 
 8. Meoonstxvee, 
 
 9. Ompooree, 
 
 10. Serebaaly 
 
 11. Senehaif 
 
 or, Village Assagay, who is cousin 
 to Mateebe, aud is the person we 
 engaged for our guide, the others 
 accompanying him as guards on 
 his return. 
 
 The roof of the mouth, so named 
 because his father, when cattle 
 were slain, was partial to that 
 part of the animal. 
 A lion. 
 
 A commando, or party for stealing. 
 Mad. 
 A thorn. 
 Entrails. 
 Black. 
 
 A female, so named because bom 
 on the day when Mateere return- 
 ed from a ten months' expedition 
 against that and other people. 
 A child forsaken. (Ompooree's 
 daughter.) 
 No home, (ditto son.) Both
 
 JULY.] JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. 3l5 
 
 which names are very descriptive of their present cir- 
 cumstances, being forsaken by their father, and from 
 compassion we were bringing them to Klaar Water, 
 there to assist them to obtain a hving. 
 
 10th. There was ice in the morning on the water. 
 At eleven, A.M. we left Marabay Fountain, and tra- 
 velled along its banks, over flat rocks resembling pave- 
 ment, till it joined a river coming from the S.W. by 
 which junction a considerable stream was produced, 
 which we named Arrowsmith River, in reference to 
 that gentleman's laudable attention to the improve- 
 ment of maps. Thermometer at noon 68. Travelled 
 till two, P.M. in a S.E. direction, when we entered a 
 long narrow valley, in which our course was to the 
 S. At five, P.M. crossed a deep rocky channel of a 
 river, which was then dry, but in which, from its ap- 
 pearance, much water must flow in the rainy season. 
 We killed a beautiful quacha at a little distance fron^ 
 the river, which, though a species of horse, gave 
 much satisfaction to our Matchappees ; the flesh being 
 sweet it pleases their palates. We had been pushing 
 forward all day, if possible to reach IMalapeetzee at 
 night, that we might spend the Sabbath there; but 
 finding this Mould be impossible, we halted among 
 some bushes, not far from a little water. 
 
 11th. Being informed that we might reach Mala- 
 peetzee in two hours, we went forward about eight, 
 A.M. We crossed the plain in a S.E. direction, 
 towards the mouth of a pass, through hills which 
 
 s s 2
 
 316 JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. [1813. 
 
 divide the Bootchuana and the Corranna countries. 
 About a mile from what we named Wilberforce Pass, 
 we found near a hundred Lattakoo people, who had 
 left it after us, having come by a nearer way across 
 the hills. Their object was to gather ounshes' roots 
 for food. They had slept among the bushes all night, 
 though it was a very cold one. They seemed pleased 
 to see us again, and soon began their old trade of 
 begging snuff and tobacco from us. Exactly at the 
 mouth of Wilberforce Pass, Ave came to a small 
 village of Red Caffres, who on our approach fled to 
 the top of a hill behind the kraal ; but on perceiving 
 we were accompanied by some Matchappees, the men 
 ventured down, and afterwards, on their calling to 
 them, the women descended also. Their appearance 
 indicated wretchedness in the extreme, and they seem- 
 ed to behold us with astonishment, being a most novel 
 sight to them. Their dwellings were so low as to be 
 hardly visible among the bushes till quite close to 
 them. They were the shape of half a hen's egg, with 
 the open part exposed to the weather, which must be ex- 
 tremely inconvenient in the rainy season, unless they are 
 able to turn the inclosed side to the storm, which might 
 easily be done. For a christian man to spend his days 
 in delivering such beings from their wretchedness in 
 this remote part of Africa, would be one of the noblest 
 acts of benevolence which could be recorded in the his- 
 toric page. God is able to produce such men, and to 
 bless their efforts. They were so covered with dirt, 
 mixed with spots of very red paint, that it appeared
 
 JULY.] JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. 317 
 
 probable none of them had had any part of their bodies 
 washed since they were born. 
 
 After travelling in a N.E. direction for three miles, 
 on Wilberforce Pass, we entered a romantic square, 
 formed by hills, charmingly covered with tufts of trees 
 here and there, at the east side of which lay the town of 
 Malapeetzee, to visit which we came in this direction 
 from Lattakoo.
 
 CHAP. XXIII. 
 
 MALAPEETZE&-INTERVIEW WITH THE NATIVES— THEIR 
 ACCOUNT OF DR. COWAN'S MURDER. 
 
 iVl ALAPEETZEE is the name of a place, near the 
 river Makkarab ; but the Coranna people are known 
 by the name of Tybuss Kraal, and also Makholoyank 
 Kraal. The inhabitants seemed to gaze at our ap- 
 proach with a mixture of fear and astonishment. They 
 stood in groups, viewing us from a distance, for some 
 time after our arrival. At length we obtained a meet- 
 ing with the people, to inform them of the object of 
 our visit, that we might put their minds at rest on that 
 head. It was some time before we could learn who 
 was their chief. First they said they had no chief; 
 then, that it was a person of the name of Tybuss, who 
 was not now with them ; then, that Oukey who was 
 present was chief in his absence. We addressed our- 
 selves to him as to the object of our visit. 
 
 The chief told us that he had been for some time at 
 Reed Fountain, when missionaries were there, and
 
 JULY.] JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. 319 
 
 had heard that the knowledge of God was to be sent 
 to all men, and he thought our coming shewed the 
 truth of that. As for himself he had no objection to a 
 missionary coming among them, but he could only 
 speak for himself, for though they called him their 
 chief, they would not take his advice — •" For instance," 
 s^id he, " the son of Ty buss, with some others, would 
 go on an expedition with the Wanketzens; I advised 
 them against it, yet they went, and were murdered. 
 They are," continued he, " a divided people; you see 
 they will not tell what they think." We said we did 
 not press for an answer at present ; they might consult 
 together, and give us an answer on the morrow. 
 Thermometer at noon, 72. 
 
 While sitting before us, we observed a silver bugle 
 horn in the front of one of their principal men's hair. 
 We concluded this must have belonged to the regi- 
 mental dress of Dr. Cowan, or Lieutenant Denovan. 
 Mr. R. employed one of our people to purchase it with 
 tobacco, which he effected. The man said he obtained 
 it from the people beyond them to the north. 
 
 We had meetings for v;orship among ourselves, and 
 in the evening met with the inhabitants for their 
 instruction, when Mr. Anderson spoke to them by 
 means of an interpreter. 
 
 12th. Thermometer at sunrise, 32. There are fifty- 
 six huts ; about three hundred inhabitants ; two thou- 
 sand cows at this, and as many at two other stations.
 
 320 JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. fl814. 
 
 They live almost entirely on their cattle, especially on 
 the milk, so that they have little else to do but to milk 
 their cows. They were formerly under the govern- 
 ment of two brothers, Linx and Abby, who not 
 agreeing, separated; some of the people following 
 the one, and some the other. Those who at present 
 reside at Malapeetzee cleaved to Linx, who is dead, 
 but Abby continues at the head of a numerous Kraal 
 to the N.E. 
 
 In general they are neither so tall, nor so black as 
 the Matchappees; they do not seem to paint or 
 powder so much as they, nor are they so industrious. 
 They get both their assagays and skin cloaks from 
 them. The persons and dress of the females seem much 
 the same as those of the Matchappee women. They 
 appear from their countenances to be clever, but from 
 their affluence in cattle, and having few wants, they are 
 very indolent. Oukey told us they intended to separate 
 soon, but that he and his friends were determined to 
 remain at Malapeetzee. 
 
 We had a meeting with the people about nine A.M. 
 when most of the inhabitants attended. IMr. R. ad- 
 dressed them, through an interpreter, giving them a 
 summary of bible doctrine, to which they listened with 
 seeming attention, and appeared to be pleased with 
 our sinsinu;. We afterwards had a meetino; widi them 
 respecting their willingness to receive a missionary — 
 they were cautious in declaring their minds ; however, 
 some said, they would be very glad if we would send
 
 JULY.] JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. 321 
 
 some one to teach them. A Coranna female of our 
 company said the women were much displeased with 
 the men for not speaking their minds freely, for, said 
 they, it is the very thing we have long desired. 
 There is no doubt but missionaries would meet with a 
 kind reception.* 
 
 An uncle of Mateebe, who lives here, stated as an 
 objection to a missionary coming to them, his inability 
 to speak their language, consequently he could be, ho 
 said, of no use to them. We said they would be 
 young men, and consequently would soon learn their 
 language ; and before that, he would be able to tell 
 them many d)ings by means of an interpreter. This 
 answer gave satisfaction. 
 
 Having inquired respecting Dr. Cowan and his 
 company, they stated, that they had been on an expe- 
 dition against the Kraal of Makrakka, and had seen 
 there mar;y knives and an epaulette — that they were 
 informed by a woman they had taken, that his sheep 
 were first captured, then the waggons were attacked, 
 taken, and burned — the guns were with JNIakkabba^ — 
 
 * Since my return to England, I have received a letter from 
 !Mr. Anderson, in which he says, they are longing for the arrival 
 of the expected missionaries. This post, in relation to the other 
 Kraals of Corannas near them and the nations beyond them, is 
 «xtremely important. 
 
 T t
 
 32? JOURNEY REYOND THE GREAT RIVER. [1813. 
 
 they had heard of the murder long ago — that Mak- 
 kabba had some time ago an assembly of people from 
 various quarters, on which occasion he boasted that his 
 father, though a great warrior, had never conquered 
 people with guns — that Makrakka had brought Dr. 
 Cowan to the Wanketzens, where he was murdered, 
 and thus he is suspected to have had a hand in the 
 murder. 
 
 Our guides who came with us from Lattakoo said 
 they had been on the same expedition, and had seen 
 Dr. Cowan's clothes, many knives and forks, spoons, 
 and guns. A man of the name of Tow had brought 
 with iiim to Lattakoo a nicrht gown, which had belong- 
 ed to a Boor who accompanied them, and it was 
 still there. They heard that the waggons had been 
 burned and the horses shot — that the women nore 
 their buttons — and that the sheep and oxen were still 
 alive in different places. 
 
 At three P.M. we took leave of our eight Matchap- 
 pee friends, who had accompanied us as guides from 
 Lattakoo, sending by them our respects to Mateebe. 
 We rewarded them for thejr trouble, by giving each a 
 little tobacco, with which they were well satisfied. In 
 lieu of these attendants, we obtained seven Coranna 
 guides ; for this part of Africa was entirely unknown 
 to any of our company. We had heard of the river 
 Malalareen, on the banks of which many Bushmen 
 were reported to live ; and we were persuaded, that
 
 JULY.] JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. 323 
 
 could we fall in with this river, it would conduct us to 
 the Great River ; we therefore requested our Coranna 
 guides to lead us to that river, after which they might 
 return to Malapeetzee. One of the chief men made 
 us a present of a goat; on counting our sheep, we 
 found one with its lamb was missing. We did not 
 suppose they had been stoleii, but had strayed.. 
 
 Tl 2
 
 CHAP. XXIV. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM MALAPEETZEE— COME IN SIGHT OF 
 THE RIVER MALALAREEN— MAKOONS KRAAL-TRAVEL 
 ALONG THE MALALAREEN— ARRIVE AT A GRIQUA 
 VILLAGE. 
 
 After taking leave of the inhabitants, who all 
 came out to witness our departure, we left Malapeet- 
 zee. We travelled southward, in an open country, 
 with low hills to the east and west, but in general over 
 the most rough, rocky ground we had met with during 
 the whole of our journey. It was surprizing our 
 waggons were not broken to pieces. We travelled in 
 search of water till nine P.IVI. without finding any; 
 when we descended over rocks to a small valley 
 enclosed by hills, in which there was a deep, rocky 
 bed of a river, but no water. Here we halted during 
 the night. 
 
 1 3th. At sunrise we left our retreat, ascending a hill 
 immediately behind it. On reaching the summit, one
 
 JULY.] JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. 325f 
 
 of the most charming countries we had seen in Africa 
 came all at once into view. The hills were beautifully 
 ornamented with trees to their very tops, and the 
 valleys resembled the finest parks in England, but what 
 essentially contributed to add lustre to the scene, in 
 the estimation of thirsty travellers, was the windings of 
 the Malalareen river in the front of the hills. There 
 was likewise the appearance of distant forests. The 
 long withered grass among tufts of trees rendered the 
 descent from the hill extremely pleasant. We looked 
 at each other as if we had got into a new world ; it 
 was so different from the country we had left on the 
 other side of the hill. At nine A.M. we approached 
 a Bushman Kraal, consisting of a few huts. The 
 Bushmen supposing we were enemies approaching to 
 attack them, hastily turned out, and drew up in battle 
 array. The chief, brandished his bow, and jumped 
 into the air, endeavouring to intimidate us. Our men, 
 who were in front, made signs that we came as firiends, 
 and on a nearer approach they so far convinced them 
 of it that they laid aside their bows and poisoned 
 arrows; but their women concealed themselves in 
 their huts. 
 
 After conversing a little with the chief, whose name 
 is Makoon, I stepped aside to his hut, and stooping 
 down, looked into it, but the terror depicted in the 
 countenances of his two wives when they saw me^ 
 I shall not soon forget ; had it been a lion or tyger 
 they could not have expressed greater alarm. With 
 a view to conciliate, I took out my watch, opened it,
 
 326' JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. [1813. 
 
 and held it before them ; on observing its motion, they 
 evidently concluded it must be a living animal, and my 
 offering to hold it near their ears, to hear its sound, 
 seemed to convince them it was some dangerous crea- 
 ture, by v.hich I intended to injure them, for they 
 almost overturned the hut in order to escape from the 
 watch. On observing that their terror was no affecta- 
 tion but real, I left them, and carried the watch open 
 to Makoon, which he and his men viewed from a little 
 distance with fear and surprise. On offering to hold 
 it near his ear, he shrunk back, but to display his cou- 
 rage before his people, he summoned up all his resolu- 
 tion, and ventured to listen to the beating of the watch. 
 On observing that the chief was uninjured, the others 
 ventured to allow the watch to be held near their ears 
 also. For some time every eye was directed to this 
 wonderful phenomenon. We then made them a pre- 
 sent of tobacco, which, being an irresistible temptation 
 to the ladies in the huts, induced them to abandon 
 their concealment, and to venture near us to solicit a 
 little also: they then allowed the watch to be held 
 near their ears, on which they all sat down to smoke, 
 Makoon's two wives were only about four feet in 
 height, and not the least deformed, and each had a 
 very small infant tied to her back. 
 
 Having never seen white people before, it was not 
 surprizing to find them alarmed at the sight. They 
 had never heard of Klaar Water or of missionaries. 
 We explained to Makoon our reason for visiting his 
 country — convinced him we could inform him of many
 
 JULY.] JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. 327 
 
 things that would do good to him and his people, 
 especially concerning the Being who made him, and 
 his people ; the sun, moon, mountains, trees, &c. and 
 that if he consented, we should send, from a distant 
 land, two persons who would teach his people these 
 things. His reply was short, but comprehensive, 
 viz. " I shall be very glad if any person will come to 
 my country, to tell me and my people Mhat we do 
 not know." He added, " I have many people over 
 there," pointing to the eastward. " We are peaceable 
 Bushmen ; so was my father, and his father, they 
 never stole any thing from their neighbours," and, 
 apparently, to encourage us to send teachers, he said, 
 " We have plenty of game and of water." Some of 
 their faces were frightfully smeared with red paint, 
 perhaps hastily put on to terrify us, had we proved 
 enemies. 
 
 Here we halted, near the river, about half past 
 nine A.M. This river is called Malalareen by the 
 Bootchuanas, Hhou by the Corannas, and by others, 
 the Heart. It was a singular providence that we were 
 led to the very spot where the chief of all the Bushmen 
 on that river happened to be ; for had we crossed the 
 hill only half a mile higher up, we could not have 
 discovered the Kraal, and consequently should not 
 have effected the object of our visit to that hitherto 
 unknown region. The diing was of the Lord, and 
 augurs well in favour of these poor Bushmen. Ma- 
 koon is evidently a clever man, but he appeared to us to 
 be possessed of nothing but the skin cloak that covered
 
 328 JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. {1813. 
 
 him, and his bow and arrows. Those missionaries 
 who may cheerfully spend their days for the benefit of 
 such a race of men, so remote from the habitations of 
 civilized life, well deserve the thanks and support of 
 all the churches of Christ. 
 
 At half past two P.M. we took leave of Makoon 
 and his people, and crossed the Malalareen at, wliat 
 our Hottentots wished should be called. Missionary 
 Ford., We proceeded chiefly S. and sometimes S.W. 
 A little before sun-set some of our people fired at some 
 camel-leopards, which they judged were about eighteen 
 feet high. I saw them scampering away. They 
 appeared huge animals, but at the distance I was 
 from them, I could not judge accurately of their 
 height, they are however certainly the tallest animals 
 with which we are acquainted. At eight P.M. we 
 halted on the banks of the Malalareen, under the 
 shade of some trees, where we found various horns of 
 wild animals strewed about, and plenty of firewood. 
 A bushman family from a little distance paid us a visit. 
 
 14th. Thermometer at sun-rise, 27. Left Van- 
 derkemp Plain at noon, when the thermometer 
 stood at 76. The Malalareen runs here in the 
 form of a bow ; of course we travelled as along 
 the string to the E. The plain was well stocked 
 with game. We shot a knoo, about the size of an 
 ordinary cow; part of which we gave to our seven 
 Corannas, who accompanied us as guides from Mala- 
 peetzee, after which they left us. Their names were
 
 JULY.] JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. 329 
 
 Kaeen-de-hareey or Lively sunshine. 
 
 Koorhee, A white stone. 
 
 Mooguee, To see a thing right. 
 
 Cheebeeaf 
 
 Keissecha, Foremost. 
 
 Teoon havel^ An unsuccessful hunt. 
 
 Mookha, Sharp sight. 
 
 The country on the opposite, or east side of the 
 Malalareen, is beautifully covered with trees, the 
 prospect being bounded by low and distant hills. At 
 seven, P.M. we fell in with the river again, and halted 
 for the night. A wolf soon got the scent of our sheep, 
 and drew near, but finding we were too strong for him, 
 he only roared at us a while, and walked off. The night 
 being cold and firewood scarce, we retired to sleep as 
 soon possible. 
 
 15th, Thermometer at sun-rise 42, with stroncr and 
 cold wind. Our tea and coffee being expended, we 
 tried, as a substitute, Caffre corn, which did very well. 
 Having been destitute of flour for bread for the last 
 two weeks, we found Bootchuana beans a good sub- 
 stitute : for butter we used the fat of our sheeps' tails, 
 which, when properly prepared, tastes much like fresh 
 butter. Walking along the bank of the river, I nearly 
 fell into a concealed Bushman's pit, which would have 
 been the same as falling upon the point of a spear, a 
 sharp stake being fixed at the bottom. Thermometer at 
 noon 72, at which time we departed S.W. At one, 
 P.M. we crossed the Malalareen, and in half an hour had 
 
 u u
 
 330 JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. [1813. 
 
 to recross it : in doing so, one of our waggons stuck fast 
 in the middle of the stream, in consequence of the 
 fore wheel sinking into a hole ; however, after great 
 exertion by the Hottentots and the oxen, it was happily 
 dragged out. About sun-set our people killed a 
 quacha. The difference between these animals on 
 the north and south sides of the Great River is con- 
 siderable. Both are striped over the whole body, but 
 those on the north side have black and white stripes, 
 while those on the south are black and brown : of the 
 cause of so great a difference I cannot hazard a con- 
 jecture. After several hours travelling there was no 
 appearance of our friendly river, and we began to fear 
 we should not soon find it ; however, at ten, P.M. we 
 reached it. 
 
 Thermometer at sun-rise 38 — at noon 60, when we 
 departed, and passed the end of Hammes' Hills, on 
 the west side of the river. We soon got into a place 
 of deep mud, concealed by tall withered grass, in 
 which the oxen beginning to sink almost to their 
 knees, like vessels in a storm trying to make the 
 nearest port, each waggon made haste to the nearest 
 point of firm ground. During this bustle we shot a 
 wild peacock, which measured six feet from the tip 
 of one wing to that of the other. At two, P.M. we 
 crossed to the east side of the river, on whicli we 
 entered a beautiful level plain, which we named 
 Kingsland Plain, where an affecting incident occurred. 
 A poor knoo had its hind leg broken by a shot a little 
 above the foot, when it ran towards our waggons about
 
 JULY.] JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. 331 
 
 a mile on its stump. It lialted about a hundred yards 
 from our waggons to drive away the dogs who were 
 teazing it. One of them was nearly caught by its 
 horns, ^vhich are almost of the shape of hooks, and 
 with these he is able to do great execution. He made 
 a noble defence, but a shot entering his forehead, he 
 gave up the contest, laid himself on the ground, and 
 almost instantly expired. Two springbucks also were 
 killed in the same plain. 
 
 Two Bushmen, with much timidity, approached us 
 while cutting up the knoo, to whom w-e made a pre- 
 sent of the back bone, covered with flesh, for which 
 they seemed grateful ; but while cutting it they held 
 their bows and poisoned arrows in their hands, as if 
 jealous of their safety among such strange visitors as 
 never were seen in their part of the world before. 
 
 About seven, P.M. we again fell in with the Mala- 
 lareen, which my waggon attempting to cross, stuck 
 fast in the mud, when one of the oxen falling on his 
 side was so entangled he could not be raised. Fires 
 being lighted up around, to enable us to see what 
 obstacles opposed, discovered the opposite bank to be 
 so steep that the oxen could not drag up the waggon. 
 About sixteen oxen being yoked to the hinder part, of 
 the waggon, we were drawn backwards to the land, 
 after having been an hour in the river. I was glad for 
 the sake of our people who had stood long in the 
 water, that there was abundance of wood to make good 
 fires to warm and dry them. Had travelled S.W. 
 
 u u 2
 
 CHAP. XXV. 
 
 ARRIVAL AT THE GREAT RIVER— DEUVERANCE FROM 
 
 LIONS. 
 
 July 17 tL 
 
 A^T seven, A.M. we crossed the river very easily, 
 a few hundred yards higher up. At ten, A.M. after 
 descending a considerable time, we again fell in 
 with the river, where we met four Bushmen, who in- 
 formed us we were not far from the mouth of the 
 river. At eleven we observed oxen feedinsf at a dis- 
 tance, which we afterwards found were sent from our 
 friends at Klaar Water, to relieve our weary animals. 
 Soon after, we came in sight of three waggons be- 
 longing to these friends, who had come there to hunt 
 sea cows. At noon we arrived at the Yellow River, 
 into which the Malalareen empties itself The Yellow- 
 River is considerably larger than the Thames above the 
 tide, and is considerably increased by the junction of 
 the other. At this confluence is one of the most 
 charming spots on earth, the river and its elevated 
 banks being covered with trees. This part of the 
 Great River was never before visited by white men. 
 Thermometer at noon 69. Travelled to-day S.W.
 
 juLY.*l JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. 333 
 
 18th. Thermometer at sun-rise 50: at noon 68. A 
 Bushman with his two wives visited us. They wit- 
 nessed our worship, but seemed to take very Httle 
 notice of it. After our worship, I went to a retired 
 eminence on the banks of the river. The views to the 
 N.E. E. and S.E, were very extensive. The reflection 
 that no European eye had ever surveyed these plains, 
 and mountains, and rivers, and that I was ten thou- 
 sand miles from home, made a solemn impression on 
 my mind which was deepened by the stillness which 
 at that time prevailed. I snatched a scrap of paper 
 from my pocket, on which I wrote the following 
 lines : 
 
 I'm far from what I call my home. 
 In regions where no white men come ; 
 Where wilds, and wilder men are foundj 
 Who never heard the gospel sound. 
 Indeed they know not that there's one 
 Ruling on high, and GOD alone. — 
 In days and nights for five months past, 
 I've travell'd much; am here at last. 
 On banks of stream well named Great, 
 To drink its water is a treat. — 
 But here to have the living word, 
 Enriching treasure ! Spirit's sword> 
 A favour this that can't be told, 
 In worth surpassing finest gold. 
 May Bushmen and the Bootchuanas, 
 The Namacquaas and the Corannas, 
 All soon possess this God-like feast. 
 And praise the Lord from west to east.
 
 334 JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER, fi8l3. 
 
 Ipih. All was in motion before sun-rise, to prepare 
 for departing. Adam Kok, who was the only one in 
 our company who knew the way by which we were to 
 travel, not having fresh oxen, went on before us, and 
 we were to follow the track of his waggon. At eleven, 
 A.M. we left the confluence of the Yellow and Mala- 
 lareen rivers, and soon came to rocks which were very 
 troublesome to get over, endangering the waggons. At 
 two, P.M. we lost Kok's track, and got among worse 
 rocks in a narrow valley between mountains. About 
 sun-set I observed one of our men standing for several 
 minutes motionless : when our waggons came near he 
 turned about, and walked to us rather agitated. On in- 
 quiry we found he had come suddenly on two lions, and 
 they stood looking at each other, until the great noise of 
 our waggons among the stones inclined them to walk off. 
 Had he not possessed sufficient fortitude to continue 
 looking directly at them, he certainly ^vould have been 
 torn to pieces ; but so long as you can steadily look a 
 lion in the face, he will not attack you. He declared 
 that he trembled before ever he saw the lions. At one 
 time my oxen made a dead halt, and would not go 
 forward, in consequence of fatigue ; however, by much 
 exertion, we got them to push forward a little farther 
 through the bushes, which soon became almost im- 
 penetrable, and it being dark, we could discover no way 
 of getting out of this thicket ; of course we were under 
 the necessity of halting where we were, at seven, P.M. 
 We lighted a great fire, and also fired two musket 
 shots as signals to Adam Kok, but they were not 
 answered. A great fire appeared on a hill to the
 
 JULY.] JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. 035 
 
 south, but this was made by Bushmen. We knew of 
 no water, for the Great River took a turn many miles 
 to the south, which obliged us to leave it. 
 
 20th. The morning light discovered that we had 
 been in the middle of a forest of trees and bushes, with 
 mountains in every direction; and by the power of 
 smell or instinct our cattle had found out water in a 
 corner among the hills. Thermometer at sun-rise 34. 
 Four Bushmen and a woman came to us early, who 
 informed us where we should next obtain water. At 
 nine, A.M. we went forward, and by turning round the 
 end of a hill, at eleven, A.M. we regained the right 
 way. We passed many wild cotton-trees, which might 
 be cultivated to any extent in this part of Africa, and 
 rendered a valuable article of trade ; the great distance 
 from the sea would be the only obstruction. Millions 
 of acres of land would be free to any man who would 
 be at the trouble to call them his own. Some of our 
 advanced people saw eleven camel-leopards, but they 
 fled towards the river before the waggons came up. At 
 noon we halted at excellent water, which we named 
 Steinkopff Fountain, where there was also abundance 
 of firewood. At two, P.M. we proceeded on our way 
 through a forest, bounded by hills close on our right. 
 We saw a variety of game, but though we had great 
 occasion for a supply of flesh, we killed none. After sun- 
 set we passed a Bushman's kraal at a little distance, 
 where they had a good fire, but none of them came 
 near us. Here we met a messenger on horseback in 
 search of Adam Kok, He had come from one of the
 
 336 JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. [1813. 
 
 outposts connected with Klaar Water, and was much 
 disappointed at not finding him with us. He was 
 armed with a gun, and pursued his journey in expecta- 
 tion of reaching him soon. We Hghted a lanthorn to 
 enable us to find our way a little further. At eight 
 o'clock, coming to plenty of firewood, we halted, and 
 soon lighted some large fires, which pleased all, for the 
 night was piercingly cold. We set fire to some de- 
 cayed trees, which afi:brded both light and heat. 
 Travelled S.W. 
 
 21st. Departed at eight, A.M. to hasten forward to 
 water. The bushes were uncommonly troublesome, 
 especially that called, Stop-a-while, tearing the oxen, 
 waggons, and our clothes. I was so completely laid 
 hold of by one bush, that with much difficulty I got 
 extricated, for no sooner had I got disengaged from 
 one hook, than I found two others had got hold of 
 some other part of my clothes ; or when breaking the 
 twig by which I was detained, another caught the arm 
 that broke it. At eleven, A.M. we turned round the 
 point of a hill, when our way lay S.W. by W. and at 
 noon we reached a village connected with Klaar 
 Water : when I asked the name of it, I was told it was 
 Campbell. The people received us very kindly; 
 brought plenty both of thick and thin milk, of which 
 we had tasted none since we left Lattakoo. Our con- 
 gregation at every time of worship was numerous. The 
 night was cold, accompanied by a piercing wind.
 
 CHAP. XXVI. 
 
 VISIT TO THE GREAT FOUNTAIN— ACCOUNT OF BALLEY— 
 
 '•BOOTCHUANA DANCE— CORANNA KRAAL— JUNCTIONS 
 
 OF THE ALEXANDER AND CRADOCK RIVERS WITH 
 
 THE YELLOW, OR GREAT RIVER— ARRIVAL AT GRIQUA 
 
 TOWN. 
 
 July ^2nd. 
 
 1 HE road was between hills to the north, through 
 a narrow valley full of trees, with a charming crystal 
 stream meandering along it, till we came to the 
 Great Fountain, which is about two miles from the 
 place we left. Here there is a small village, contain- 
 ing about thirty people, surrounded with little foun- 
 tains, hills, and trees, compleatly sequestered from 
 the world. Though at present in its natural state, 
 it appeared to me a second paradise. The people 
 have only lately come to this spot, and are beginning 
 to cultivate the surrounding ground. 
 
 Adam Bailey, a Griqua, and a member of the 
 church at Klaar Water, reads the scriptures to the 
 
 X X
 
 338 JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. [U?15. 
 
 people, and tries sometimes to say a little to them 
 from what he reads, and remarked that he hoped 
 after a while to be able to say a little more. He gave 
 us the following account of himself. 
 
 " The first thing that led me to think of religion 
 was observing two Hottentots, who belonged to Zak 
 river mission, giving thanks when eating. I went 
 afterwards to that settlement, where I heard many 
 things, but felt no interest in them. But one day, 
 when alone in the fields, I looked very seriously at a 
 mountain, as the work of that God of whom I ha<l 
 heard. Then I looked to my two hands, and for the 
 first time noticed that there were the same number of 
 fingers on each. I asked, why are there not five on 
 this hand, and three on that; it must be God that 
 made them so. Then I examined my feet, and 
 wondered to find them both flat, not one flat and the 
 other round. God must have done this, said I. In 
 this way I considered my whole body, which made a 
 deep impression on my mind, and disposed me to hear 
 with more interest, till I was brought to trust that 
 Jesus died for my sins." 
 
 He said he would accompany us part of our journey, 
 that he might hear a little more. The people of this 
 little village seem to live as one family ; for a large pot, 
 full of quacha flesh, was on the fire in the open air, 
 which contained as much flesh as would dine all the 
 inhabitants.
 
 JULY.] JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. 339 
 
 Saltpetre abounds greatly at this place; in some 
 parts the ground is covered as with snow, half an inch 
 deep, yet the water of the springs is not brackish, 
 as in every other place I have yet seen, where there 
 is much saltpetre in the ground. The day was 
 pleasant, and though winter, and on high ground, 
 several fine flowers displayed their beauty. We 
 returned to our waggons to dinner. 
 
 Five languages are spoken in the village, viz. Dutch, 
 Coranna, Bootchuana, Hottentot, and Bushman. The 
 Bushmen live by themselves on the east side, and next 
 to them the Bootchuanas, who are here only as tem- 
 porary servants. In the evening I visited their huts. 
 The Bushmen seemed particularly pleased by my 
 calling on them, and noticing their children. The 
 Bootchuanas were dancing, in a savage kind of way, 
 around a fire; the women beating time with their 
 hands, and singing, exactly as at Lattakoo. Their 
 attitudes were disgusting and terrific. While they 
 were thus engaged, I was thinking how their present 
 conduct will appear to themselves, if ever they are 
 brought to the knowledge of God, and of his Son 
 Jesus Christ, whom truly to know is life eternal. 
 They will certainly say, " I was as a beast before 
 thee, O Lord." I was gratified to hear that the 
 Bushmen were to assist this year in cultivating the 
 ground, and were to receive a portion of the produce. 
 Tasting the sweets of industry may produce the 
 spirit of it. 
 
 X X 2
 
 340 JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. [1813. 
 
 23rd. Thermometer at sun-rise, 40. An old Bush- 
 man being informed what was our business in this 
 country, and that the Matchappees, Corannas, and 
 his own countrymen on the Malalareen had agreed 
 to receive instructors, said, " Instruction was good, 
 for they had had peace ever since it came into the 
 country." 
 
 We departed at ten A.M. traveUing S. to another 
 out-post, connected with Klaar Water, which at pre- 
 sent is on the banks of the Great River, or as it is 
 called here, the Yellow River, the same as it is named 
 above its junction with the Malalareen. Like the Arabs, 
 the people at this post wander from place to place, 
 according as they find pasturage for their cattle. We 
 travelled to it chiefly over gravel and sand. Arrived at 
 two P.M. Thermometer at noon, 70. In the 
 evening Mr. R. preached to about seventy people. 
 
 24th. Thermometer at sun-rise, 32. At nine A.M. 
 after Mr. R. had addressed the people, the waggons 
 set off by the most direct road, to fall in with the 
 river after its making a semicircle towards the south. 
 Mr. R. and I went on horseback, accompanied by 
 Adam Kok and three Griquas, to examine the 
 reported junction of two other rivers with the Yellow 
 River, a few miles farther down. We kept close by 
 the river. The first part of the ride particularly was 
 uncommonly pleasant. The day was fine ; small 
 parties of cattle, sheep, and goats were now and then 
 visiting the river to drink of its crystal water; the
 
 JULY.] JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. 341 
 
 wide stream glided silently along, as if afraid to 
 interrupt our discourse; the banks were ornamented 
 with trees, decked in green and yellow. The whole 
 scene appeared charming and enchanting, far sur- 
 passing the heaven described by Mahomet. In an 
 hour we came unexpectedly on a Coranna Kraal of 
 sixty or seventy persons, dwelling in a beautiful hollow, 
 close by the river. I admired the spot they had 
 selected for a temporary residence. They were 
 equally surprised to see us, as we were to see them. 
 The Kraal is called Mabouchoone. They are not 
 confined to any particular spot, but move up and down 
 the river, as provision for their cattle is plentiful or 
 scarce. These people never heard of Europe or any 
 of its distractions, but like hermits, live without care, 
 affectingly contented with their ignorance of God, of 
 the Saviour, and of the rest of mankind. About a 
 dozen women were busy in digging a certain kind of 
 root which emits a pleasant smell. This they pound 
 down and mix with their red paint and grease, with 
 which they smear their bodies, to give them a more 
 agreeable scent, like our fashionables in England. In 
 England the cheeks only are smeared with paint, in 
 France they add the neck and bosom, but in this 
 country they lay it on from head to foot. 
 
 In this part of Africa there are every where to be 
 found, inexhaustible magazines of materials for rearing 
 great cities ; especially stone, lime, and slate ; there is 
 also a great river, adapted to navigation by small craft,
 
 342 JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. [1813. 
 
 which seems providentially to prognosticate great things 
 to Africa ; for the all-wise Creator makes nothing in 
 vain. If what he has made in one quarter does not 
 suit the purpose and pursuits of one generation, it 
 may suit those of another. At present all is lying as 
 useless as the ruins of Palmyra or Persepolis. 
 
 At eleven A.M. we arrived at the confluence of 
 the two rivers; both of which were large, but the 
 Yellow River had the pre-eminence. We could see 
 up the new river, which came from the S.E. about two 
 miles ; the rising banks of which, being covered with 
 trees, had an elegant appearance. We enquired if it 
 had any name, when our Griquaas told us that this 
 river and one a little below, which was still larger, had 
 only been lately known to them ; of course they had 
 no names for them, except that they spoke of this as 
 the mud and the other as the black river. From 
 this information we agreed to name this one the 
 Alexander River, after the Colonial Secretary 
 at Cape-town, and the other the Cradock River, 
 after His Excellency Sir John Cradock, the Governor 
 of the colony of the Cape of Good Hope. We 
 informed them that both these gentlemen were good 
 friends to Hottentots. They seemed pleased with 
 these names being given to the rivers, and frequently 
 repeated them, to fix them on their memories. The 
 scenery being so grand, we felt reluctant to leave i^ 
 however we tore ourselves away from it, and reached 
 our waggons about one P.M. and proceeded with
 
 flaU. n. 
 
 I'a^c 342 
 
 jru>CTIGK OF THE YELJLOW & CRABOT^ K:' 
 
 JI^ITitCTIC^T i>i" 'JJ1£ 
 
 & AXJEXAJfS''KX KiVi&S.
 
 JULY.] JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. MS 
 
 speed in hopes of reaching the junction of the Yellow 
 and Cradock rivers before dark, which we did in time 
 to view it. I considered the scenery here superior to 
 any thing I had seen in Africa, or in any other country. 
 Both these rivers, the Alexander and Cradock seem to 
 come from a S.E. direction, and the Yellow, upon 
 the whole, to run from N.E. to S.W. These four 
 rivers may be considered as the sources of the Great 
 River, viz. the Yellow, the Malalareen, the Alexander, 
 and the Cradock, for having afterwards travelled on 
 its banks across the continent of Africa, nearly to its 
 mouth, we never found another river joining it. 
 Thermometer at noon, 70. 
 
 25th. Thermometer at sun-rise, 3Q. at noon, 68. 
 A Bushman with his wife, and his brother's wife, came 
 and spent the day with us, attending our worship. He 
 said he was partial to white men, and on that account 
 sometimes visited Klaar Water, but he knew nothing. 
 He told us that a boor, who had fled from the colony, 
 lived for some time near where we were, but hearing 
 that the Bushmen were concerting measures to kill 
 him, he had removed farther down the river. Towards 
 evening, we went forward to a fountain, that we might 
 be able to reach Klaar Water on the morrow, but we 
 found it farther than we expected, as we did not reach 
 it till eight P.M. We named it Fisher Fountain, 
 after the Landdrost of Graaf Reynet. Our last 
 remaining piece of candle served barely to light us to 
 eat our supper, but a large wood fire supplied the 
 place of candle light.
 
 344 JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. [1813. 
 
 26th. Our people, being anxious to reach Griqua 
 town early, had all in motion before day light, so that 
 we arrived there about eleven A.IM. our journey to 
 Lattakoo and Alalapeetzee having occupied us six 
 weeks. 
 
 Our three Hottentots, who did not accompany us 
 to Lattakoo, when they heard the others recount the 
 wonders they had seen there, were exceedingly vexed 
 that they had loitered behind, and surprised at their 
 own conduct ; but had we all been murdered, like poor 
 Cowan, they would have thought very difterently. 
 
 . Now we had reached a temporary rest, and could 
 truly say, Hitherto God has helped, and certainly he 
 should have the glory.
 
 CHAP. XXVII. 
 
 ;A murder— insanity— camel-leopard KILLED— CAF- 
 PRE METHOD OF ATTACK- BUSHMEN ON YELLOW 
 RIVER- GRIQUA AS RESOLVE TO ADOPT LAWS— LAWS 
 APPROVED— RESOLVE TO CONTRIBUTE TO SOCIETY'S 
 FUNDS— TO HAVE MONEY COINED. 
 
 July STth. Thermometer at noon, 54. 
 
 IVXR. JANZ related at breakfast concerning a 
 wild Bushman whom he knew — That he and his 
 brother had a dispute, which of them should obtain a 
 certain woman for wife, to whom both were equally 
 attached. His brother succeeded in obtaining her, 
 but afterwards, when passing the hut in which the 
 couple lay fast asleep, he strung his bow and shot a 
 poisoned arrow through his brother's heart. When 
 relating this story, he did it as if it had been a jocular 
 affair. 
 
 It is a remarkable fact, that insanity is a disease 
 almost unknown among the natives of South Africa. 
 May this be ascribed to their compleat exemption 
 from the cares of life, both as it respects -the present
 
 346 JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. [1814. 
 
 and the future world. They can sleep as soon, and as 
 sound, when they have not a morsel to eat, as when 
 their bags are full of food. They calculate no time, 
 consequently have no care respecting old age, never 
 connecting death with the length of time they may have 
 lived : and even if they did so connect it, little uneasi- 
 ness would follow, for, like the French philosophers 
 in the mad days of Robespiere, they consider death as 
 an eternal sleep. These philosophers had evidently 
 reverted to the opinions of their forefathers, when in 
 the savage state. I hope many of them saw their error 
 before they felt it, when too late. 
 
 In the evening we attended an examination of the 
 people, from a Dutch catechism, which is customary 
 once a week. 
 
 31st. Having been employed ever since our arrival, in 
 writing letters to the colony and to England, about sun- 
 set some musket-shots were fired at a little distance 
 which I concluded was announcing the arrival of some 
 of our people and the Griquaas, who were left be- 
 hind at the confluence of the Yellow and Malalareen 
 rivers, to shoot sea cows; but a messenger soon an- 
 nounced that a camel-leopard had been shot, and 
 they wished me to see it before it died : of course 
 we hastened to the spot, but he had fallen down and 
 expired before we arrived. The length of his fore legs 
 measured nearly six feet, so that a high horse could 
 have walked under his belly: from the hoof to the 
 top of the head he measured fifteen feet. The person
 
 AUG.] JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. 347 
 
 who shot it made me a present of the skin to carry to 
 England . 
 
 'O* 
 
 August 1 . We had three public meetings for wor- 
 ship, which were all well attended, and the people 
 seemed to listen with attention. 
 
 2nd. One of our people, who, on our first coming 
 to the Great River, bad collected many different kinds 
 of stones, was looking over and throwing many of them 
 away, having now better knowledge of the article. Age 
 and experience discover many things to be trifles 
 which in youthful days were highly esteemed. 
 
 3rd. A litde after midnight a messenger arrived 
 with the information, that a large party of Caffres, 
 who had for some time been residing at Zak River, 
 were, with a party of Bushmen, marching to attack 
 the settlement. The bell being rung, the inhabitants 
 were immediately collected, to consider what was best 
 to be done on the occasion. They agreed first to 
 dispatch a few armed men to gain inteUigence as to 
 the truth of the report. 
 
 The Caffres have an artful way of making their 
 attacks. They march, at a moderate rate, till they 
 come within about two days' journey of those whom 
 they mean to attack, when they halt, kill a cow or ox, 
 and eat as much as they can ; after which they set off 
 in the evening, and continue running at a great pace 
 the whole night, that they may fall upon the people 
 Y y 2
 
 348 JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. [1813. 
 
 by surprise in the morning. By this means they are fre- 
 quently successful. We visited their burying ground, 
 which lies in a retired corner, among hills, about a mile 
 S. W. of the settlement. They dig their graves deep ; and, 
 as they do not use coffins, but wrap the body in skins, 
 they dig a place out of the side of the grave near the bot- 
 tom, like a shelf, in which they deposit the body, lest the 
 stones which are thrown in should press too hard upon 
 it. On the surface of the ground a large stone is 
 placed at each end of the grave. 
 
 On a hill, a few hundred yards off, is a heap of 
 stones raised against a small cliff, which is reported to 
 be a Bushman's grave, and probably is cut out of the 
 rock. So sacred, however, are the repositories of the 
 dead considered here, that even though there are re- 
 ports that property lies concealed under the stones, it 
 never has been examined. Nothing can be conceived 
 more solitary than these receptacles of the dead, being 
 chiefly visited by lions, wolves, and other wild beasts ; 
 but the Son of God shall discover them at the termi- 
 nation of time : they shall hear the sound of the resur- 
 rection and judgment trumpet, and hasten from retire- 
 ment to mingle with innumerable multitudes who shall 
 assemble on that awful occasion. They are happy 
 who can think of it with pleasure. 
 
 Boozak, one of our zealous christian Hottentots from 
 Bethelsdorp, remained with some of the Griquaas be- 
 hind, at the mouth of the Malalareen, to shoot the 
 hippopotamus. They went about a day and a half's
 
 AUG.] JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. 349 
 
 journey higher up the Yellow River, where they found 
 a large kraal of Bushmen, with about two hundred of 
 whom, he and John Hendric had various meetings for 
 instruction, whicli pleased them so much, that they 
 requested the meetings to be more frequent. They 
 mentioned our purpose in coming to this part of 
 Africa, when they expressed a desire to have a teacher 
 sent to them also. The mission to the Malalareen 
 Bushmen will probably include them. 
 
 5th. Our Caffre news turned out to be a hoax by 
 the Bushmen. 
 
 6th. The people in this part, being a mixed race, 
 went by the name of Bastards ; but having represented 
 to the principal persons the offensiveness of the word 
 to an English or Dutch ear, they resolved to assume 
 some other name. On consulting among themselves, 
 they found the majority were descended from a person 
 of the name of Griqua, and they resolved hereafter to 
 be called Griquaas. In the evening there was thunder, 
 but no rain. 
 
 7th. There fell during the night a considerable 
 quantity of rain. We had a meeting with all the male 
 inhabitants of the setdement who were in the town, to 
 consider various points, especially about regulations 
 for the protection of the lives and property of the 
 community, 
 
 I endeavoured to explain to them the necessity and 
 design of laws for the government of every society —
 
 350 JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. [I813. 
 
 that if there were no law against murder, and no pu- 
 nishment annexed to the commission of it, then every 
 man's life was in danger of being taken from him, 
 even on the most frivolous occasion — if no law against 
 theft, then the property of the industrious was at the 
 mercy of the idle ; and in case they should become a 
 much more numerous people, which was not impro- 
 bable, should they remain without laws, all would be 
 anarchy and confusion — that by appointing rulers or 
 judges to execute the laws they might adopt, they were 
 not giving away their power, but only lending it to the 
 judges, for their reciprocal advantage — and that in the 
 history of the world there was no account of any peo- 
 ple existing and prospering without laws. I com- 
 mended them highly for having relinquished a wan- 
 dering life and become a stationary people, and said 
 I was happy that they were, from experience, con- 
 vinced of its utility ; and assured them that in propor- 
 tion to the length of time they remained here, they and 
 their children would become attached to the spot, and 
 be desirous to promote its prosperity ; that they would 
 feel it become a home, of which, while wanderers, they 
 were destitute. 
 
 After Mr. Read had stated various particulars re- 
 specting their proceedings at Bethelsdorp, followed 
 by remarks from Messrs. Anderson, Janz, and the two 
 native Captains or Chiefs, every person present con- 
 sented that laws should be made, and judges or 
 magistrates chosen to put them in execution ; and that 
 a meeting should be held in the afternoon to consider 
 what laws should immediately be made in reference to
 
 JULY.] JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. 351 
 
 the chief crimes generally committed, and that the 
 framing other laws respecting inferior crimes should 
 be deferred till circumstances, which might arise, 
 should point out their necessity. 
 
 It was agreed that their two Captains, or Chiefs, 
 should continue to act as commanders in things re- 
 quiring the public safety against foreign attacks. The 
 whole people likewise resolved that henceforth they 
 should be called Griquaas, instead of Bastard Hotten- 
 tots, and the place called Griqua-town, instead of 
 Klaar Water. 
 
 During the interval between the meetings, I drew 
 up some general laws, and the following were agreed 
 to by all present. 
 
 I. That wilful murder be in every case punished 
 by the death of the murderer. The execution to be 
 always public, either by hanging or shooting. 
 
 II. That housebreaking be punished by public whip- 
 ping—for the second offence, whipping and hard labour, 
 during a term which the judges may consider proper, 
 or which may be afterwards agreed to. 
 
 III. For stealing a bull, ox, cow, horse, sheep, or 
 goat, to be punished by restoring double, or more, as 
 shall be decided by the court— for a second similar 
 offence, whipping and restoring double— for a third 
 similar offence, a term of labour to be added to the 
 former punishment.
 
 352 JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. [1813. 
 
 IV. For stealing from a garden, either whipping or 
 a term of labour for the person in whose garden the 
 robbery was committed. 
 
 V. For robbing from a field in autumn, double 
 restoration. 
 
 VI. For allowing cattle to feed near growing corn, 
 if they go into that field, and eat or destroy the grain, 
 the proprietor of the cattle to pay double the loss that 
 may have been sustained. 
 
 VII. If a Bushman, Coranna, or any stranger be 
 murdered, the murderer shall receive the same pu- 
 nishment as for murdering a Griqua. 
 
 VIII. Going upon a commando for plunder, to be 
 punished by a term of labour, and the property taken 
 to be restored to its owners. 
 
 IX. If a Bushman, Coranna, or other stranger, 
 commit murder, theft, or any other crime within the 
 limits of the Griqua country, the punishment to be the 
 same as if he had been a Griqua. 
 
 X. That no person shall take it upon him to punish 
 another, whatever injury he may have received from 
 him, but must bring his charge against that person, 
 and prove it by witnesses before the court, which 
 shall determine what is fit to be done.
 
 AUG.] JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. 353 
 
 XI. That no person, who is to be a judge in any cause, 
 is to receive a present, directly or indirectly, from any 
 of the parties whose cause is to be tried before him. 
 
 XII. In order to evade rule eleventh, should a 
 person promise to give at a future time a present to 
 any of the judges who are to try his cause, that person 
 shall be fined, and if unable to pay the fine, shall be 
 adjudged to give a term of labour in proportion to the 
 value of the fine. 
 
 XIII. That all persons flying from justice in the 
 colony, in consequence of some crime they have com- 
 mitted and coming among them, shall be delivered up 
 to such persons as may be sent in pursuit of them. 
 
 XIV. That every person who shall endeavour to 
 prevent the execution of the laws, shall be punished 
 as the court shall judge proper. 
 
 They likewise resolved, that nine magistrates should 
 be chosen to act as judges at Griqua town, and one 
 at each of the two principal out-posts, who is to judge 
 in smaller cases, but others are to be remitted to the 
 judges at Griqua town. 
 
 That the two captains, Bern and Kok, with Messrs. 
 Anderson and Janz, be a court of appeal. 
 
 That the limits of their country be marked out in 
 the course of one month, and the magistrates chosen. 
 
 z z
 
 354 JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. [1813. 
 
 The people having expressed a desire that the 
 Missionary Society should send missionaries to the 
 principal out-posts, we stated to them the great 
 expense to the Society which even one missionary 
 would occasion, by the time he reached their country, 
 for his education, out-fit, passage, and journey to 
 Griqua land; wherefore, that as providence had 
 increased their worldly substance, they should endea- 
 vour to aid the Society, in sending teachers to them. 
 One man might engage to give an ox annually to the 
 funds, others a sheep, or goat, or elephant's tooth, &c. 
 To this proposal they unanimously consented. 
 
 It was likewise resolved, that as they had no circu- 
 lating medium amongst them, by which they could 
 purchase any small article, such as knives, scissars, 
 clothing, &c. supposing a shop to be established 
 amongst them, which they were anxious that there 
 should be — they should apply to the Missionary Society 
 to get silver pieces of different value coined for them 
 in England, which the missionaries would take for 
 their allowance from the Society, having Griqua 
 town marked on them. It is probable that, if this 
 were adopted, in a short time they would circulate 
 among all the nations round about, and be a great 
 convenience.
 
 CHAP. XXVIII. 
 
 NUMBER OF PEOPLE IN GRIQUA LAND— CHURCH- 
 SCHOOL— WAGGONS— TRADES. 
 
 X HE following is the number of Griquaas who reside 
 at Griqua town and the out-posts connected with it. 
 
 Men 291 
 
 Women 399 
 
 Bovs 310 
 
 Girls Q66 
 
 1266 
 
 The number of Corannas who consider them- 
 selves connected with the Griquaas, for the sake of 
 protection, many of whom attend occasionally for 
 instruction, and some statedly, are, as nearly as can 
 be ascertained 1341, making the total of Griquas and 
 Corannas 26O7. 
 
 The church, or christian society, consists of twenty- 
 six men, and sixteen women. There have been added, 
 
 z z 2
 
 356 JOURNEY REYOND THE GREAT RIVER. [1813. 
 
 during the last twelve months, two men, and two 
 women. 
 
 Several of the members endeavour to teach others 
 the things of God, especially on their journies. 
 Likewise at different out-posts there are members of 
 the church who meet with the people, frequently on 
 week days, and always on the Lord's day, to converse 
 with them, to read the scriptures, and to unite in prayer 
 and praise. 
 
 The number who attend the school at Griqua town 
 is various according to circumstances, but those who 
 attend at different times are stated at two hundred and 
 ten. At Hardcastle, an out-post, forty are taught 
 by a daughter of Fortuyn a member of the church. 
 At other out-posts the care of youth is committed to 
 different members of the church, who can read. It 
 is supposed that upwards of a hundred persons can 
 read, and a few can write. 
 
 Many of the people have gardens, but tobacco holds 
 a distinguished place in them all. Many acres of 
 land, in different parts of the country, especially 
 around Griqua town, are cultivated. They have a 
 considerable number of cattle, sheep, and goats, and 
 these, with other outward comforts, the people acknow- 
 ledge, have considerably increased, since they became 
 a stationary people. For the first five years after the 
 missionaries came among them, like wild Arabs, they 
 wandered about from place to place, notwithstanding
 
 4U0.] JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. 357 
 
 frequent expostulations by the missionaries. All was 
 in vain till they gained over to their sentiments the 
 two captains, and a few of the principal men. The 
 missionaries deserve great credit for their patience in 
 submitting so long to that wandering life. 
 
 Twenty-four waggons belong to the people, but 
 
 most of them are nearly worn out by use, as from 
 
 their ignorance and simplicity, they are often taken in, 
 
 by the boors in the colony, from whom they purchase 
 
 their old waggons. The boors have only to cover 
 
 them with pitch or tar, and though rotten to the heart, 
 
 the simple Griquaas will purchase them as good, and 
 
 new, and however frequently they may have been 
 
 taken in formerly, it makes them no more cautious in 
 
 purchasing the next ; a few fine words from the boor 
 
 makes all right. If any of them in travelling through 
 
 the colony, express a desire to be able to purchase a 
 
 waggon; there is hardly a boor who will not give 
 
 them one on credit, if he has it to dispose of; 
 
 they are so faithful in paying their debts. In this 
 
 manner many a veteran waggon has found its way to 
 
 Griqua land, there to deposit its dust. 
 
 Trades can scarcely be said to exist in Griqua 
 land. There are some who may be termed bambus- 
 makers, or makers of vessels of wood for holding 
 milk or water. Some can do a little at smith's-work, 
 in repairing waggons, and one man (Fortuyn at 
 Hardcastle) can construct a waggon. From the 
 appearance of the new meeting house they are building,
 
 358 JOURNEY BEYOND THE GREAT RIVER. [1813. 
 
 which stands unfinished, there must be tolerably 
 good masons among them. The women make > mats 
 of rushes. 
 
 Upon the whole I believe this mission has been 
 a great blessing to this part of Africa. Here I 
 received much attention from the missionaries and 
 their families, and from many of the people, and felt 
 pain at the thought of soon parting firom them, to see 
 them no more. 
 
 8th. During the night a wolf was so bold and 
 voracious that he entered the town, and devoured 
 three sheep. As we were ready to depart on the 
 morrow, Mr. Read preached a farewell discourse in 
 the morning from Rev. vi. 2, and in the evening I 
 preached from 2 Cor. xiii. 1 1 . About three hundred 
 people were present each time.
 
 CHAP. XXIX. 
 
 JOURNEY ACROSS THE CONTINENT OF AFRICA. 
 
 VISIT HARDCASTLE— ASBESTOS MOUNTAINS— ROWLAND- 
 HILL-DORP— CROSSING THE GREAT RIVER. 
 
 August 9th, 1813. 
 
 1 HE next missionary station to be visited was in 
 Namaqua land, which lies on the western coast of 
 Africa near the mouth of the Great River, while 
 Griqua land lies towards the eastern shores. Only 
 two ways presented themselves, either to return almost 
 to Cape town, and travel to Namaqualand along the 
 western coast, which would be a journey of at least 
 three or four months, supposing that oui: cattle should 
 be able to hold out, which was extremely doubtful; 
 the other was to go directly across Africa, following 
 the course of the Great River, which had before been 
 attempted by two Europeans, but they failed, in 
 consequence of ridges of rocks running up from the 
 Great River for upwards of twenty miles inland, over 
 which no waggon could travel, and the country 
 appeared so barren and dry, that they returned to
 
 360 JOURNEY ACROSS THE '[aug. 
 
 Griqua town. The probability of our crossing over 
 to Namaqua land in four or five weeks, and thereby 
 saving two or three months, and likewise of discover- 
 ing what was in the very heart of Africa, were such 
 irresistible inducements as determined us to hazard 
 the attempt. 
 
 Early in the morning our people began to pack the 
 waggons, and every thing was ready for our departure 
 by ten o'clock ; but our oxen had broken out of the 
 enclosure in which they were kept during the night, 
 and no one knew in what direction they had wandered. 
 People were sent in different directions to search for 
 them, but we were kept in suspence respecting their 
 return the whole day, until six in the evening. But 
 as it was moon light, we resolved to set off directly, 
 which we did on taking leave of our friends. Mr. 
 Janz accompanied us in his vv aggon with some of his 
 friends, together with three waggons belonging to the 
 Griquaas, intending to see us safely across the Great 
 River. When about half a mile distant, they fired 
 a farewell salute from different parts of the settlement, 
 as is the custom in the colony. At two o'clock in the 
 morning, after travelling between hills from Griqua 
 town, we arrived at what we named Ewing Fountain. 
 The night being cold, and the ground covered with 
 hoar frost, and fire wood being scarce, after our 
 worship we hastened to rest. Travelled S.W. 
 
 10th. The rising sun discovered that we were in a 
 beautiful small plain, surrounded with hills. At nine
 
 aVg.] continent of AFRICA. 36l 
 
 A.M. we left Ewing Plain, and, after a pleasant jour- 
 ney of two hours, arrived at a Coranna kraal in Milk 
 Valley, where Mr. R. preached, through a Coranna 
 interpreter, to the people. Afterwards the laws made 
 for Griqualand were read to them, most of whom con- 
 sented to them, and their names were taken down. 
 
 I should have noticed, that two of our Hottentots 
 from Bethelsdorp, when on the eve of leaving Griqua- 
 town, made known their attachment to two females 
 whom they wished to marry and take with them ; but 
 it being impossible to get the consent of friends so sud- 
 denly, they could not obtain their brides, though both 
 the females were very willing to go with the men. Mr. 
 Anderson was guardian to one of them, but her bro- 
 ther was absent, however he said that another man 
 was paying his addresses to her, and that he was sure 
 that her only reason for preferring tliis one, was the 
 idea of a long ride to Bethelsdorp, and when you are 
 gone, said he, it will all be forgotten by the two girls ; 
 for, added he, these people are all children. 
 
 At four, P.M. we left Milk Valley. Passed Reed 
 Fountain, where Mr. Kicherer and others had a 
 missionary settlement some years ago, but where they 
 only remained a short time. The situation is on a 
 plain, surrounded by hills. At that time the fountain 
 was a good one, but now it is almost dried up, per- 
 haps by reaching a body of sand underground. At 
 nine, P.M. we reached Hardcastle, one of the out- 
 posts belonging to Griqua-town, where we were kindly 
 
 3 A
 
 362 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 received by Bern (one of the Captains) and the people, 
 who were soon collected into a large room built for a 
 preaching place, where Mr. R. preached to them. 
 Travelled S.W. 
 
 1 1 th. Day-light discovered the beauty of the scenery 
 that surrounded Hardcastle. It lies in a valley not 
 above three miles in circumference, surrounded by the 
 Asbestos Mountains of diversified shapes. There are 
 four long passes between the mountains, leading from 
 it in different directions, which not only increase the 
 convenience of the situation, but add greatly to the 
 grandeur of the prospect around. Some of us walked 
 after breakfast to examine the asbestos rocks, where 
 we found plenty of that rare mineral, between strata 
 of rocks. That which becomes, by a little beating, soft 
 as cotton, is all of Prussian blue. When ascendincp a 
 mountain alone, I found some of the colour of gold, 
 but not soft, or of a cotton texture like the blue; some 
 I found white, and brov/n, and green, &c. Had this 
 land been known to the ancients in the days of impe- 
 rial Rome, many a mercantile pilgrimage would have 
 been made to the Asbestos Mountains in Griqua land. 
 Were the ladies' gowns in England woven of this sub- 
 stance, many lives would annually be saved, that are 
 lost by their dress catching fire ; for cloth made from 
 it stands the fire, and the ancients burned their dead 
 in such cloth to retain their real ashes. A considerable 
 portion of it is used in making their roads. It is very 
 remarkable ttiat it is called by the Griquaas, hand- 
 kerchief stone.
 
 v smr. 
 
 Tag 1^362.
 
 AUG.] CONTINENT OF AFRICA. 363 
 
 The Bushmen over the whole country lay claim to 
 all the honey in the mountains as their property. They 
 mark the hives in the rocks, as farmers mark their 
 sheep; and should they find, on their regular visits^ 
 that any hive has been robbed, they are sure to carry 
 off the first cow or sheep they meet. They say that 
 Corannas, Matchappees, and Morolongs have cows 
 and sheep that live upon the grass of the land ; that 
 they have none, wherefore they have a right to the 
 bees who live only on the flowers. Their right is not 
 invaded, because all find it their interest to let the 
 Bushmen obtain the honey, and then to purchase it 
 from them. 
 
 At sun-set, thirteen Corannas riding on oxen ar- 
 rived, who made an odd appearance. They belong to 
 a neighbouring kraal. After the laws lately made at 
 Griqua-town had been read and explained to the peo- 
 ple at Hard castle, they were also read to the Corannas, 
 who all consented to conform to them. Most of them 
 expressed satisfaction that now they were to have 
 rules, being convinced, from experience, of the incon- 
 venience of living without law. 
 
 A meeting-house of stone stands unfinished here, the 
 same as at Griqua-town : the best house at Griqua- 
 town is also in the same state, and so is the best 
 house here. They are very defective in persever- 
 ance; but they have engaged soon to finish all these 
 works. 
 
 3 A 2
 
 364 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 Mr. Janz preached at seven, A.M. Mr. Reed at 
 two, P.M. and I at seven, P.M. when upwards of a 
 hundred persons were present. 
 
 12th. During the day many Griquaas arrived, on 
 oxen, from different parts of the country around. We 
 intended leaving Hardcastle early in the afternoon, 
 but Providence overruled our purpose by two circum- 
 stances, the straying of five of our oxen, and a sup- 
 ply of sheep for our journey across the continent 
 not arriving, which afforded another opportunity of 
 preaching, first to the Corannas who had come from 
 a distance, then to the Griquaas ; after which the laws 
 made for Griqualand were read them, to which they 
 all assented, and promised to obey them. An old 
 Coranna, when his opinion was asked concerning the 
 laws, said that he approved of them as good and ne- 
 cessary ; not for himself, for he never did any thing 
 wrong; but he approved of them as good for 
 others, pointing particularly to his countrymen around 
 him. Had he been a Jew, we should have put him 
 down for a Pharisee. When their names were given in 
 to be recorded, as having consented to the laws, they 
 appeared highly diverted at hearing each others names. 
 They laughed most when an old man said his name 
 was wolf. Indeed the old man seemed to be ashamed 
 of his own name, for all are enemies to wolves ; but 
 we told him that one of the greatest commanders in 
 our country had the name of Wolfe, which put an end 
 to the laughter.
 
 AUG.] CONTINENT OF AFRICA. 565 
 
 Most of the stones of which the mountains here are 
 composed are yellow, and sound like bell-metal on falling 
 against each other : they are finely shaped for building, 
 being generally flat. They intend immediately to begin 
 erecting a meeting-house for the worship of God. On 
 finishing this, Bern, their Captain and some others de- 
 sign to build better houses for themselves, to which we 
 have frequently urged them, as calculated to draw them 
 more eftectually from a wandering life, to which they 
 still feel a propensity ; and as an ox can carry on its 
 back any of the houses in which most of them now 
 live, they are encouraged, by tliis facility of removing, 
 often to take long and needless journies with their 
 cattle. They likewise consented to build immediately 
 a large passage-boat, for crossing the Great River with 
 passengers, from which they are only about eighteen 
 miles distant: we waited in vain five days to get 
 across. We recommended their building a shed for 
 the boat at a safe distance from the river, which no ris- 
 ing of it could reach. They have several acres of land 
 cultivated, in a beautiful vale a little to the south of the 
 village. 
 
 Number of persons at Hardcastle and district con- 
 nected with it : 
 
 Men 110 
 
 Women 165 
 
 Boys 110 
 
 Girls 100 
 
 Corannas 400 
 
 885
 
 366 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 13th. Left Hardcastle at eleven, A.M. at which 
 time our caravan consisted of eight waggons, besides 
 horses, oxen, and sheep; but most of these were to 
 leave us as soon as we should get across the Great 
 River. The day was pleasant, but the wind rather 
 strong for so sandy a part of the country, for it blew 
 the sand in clouds upon us, and rendered it uncom- 
 fortable to travel. At Reed Fountain one of our wag- 
 gons left us, to go eastward to Griqua-town, and we 
 continued travelling directly north, among the moun- 
 tains. At six, P.M. we halted at Paard-berg, (or 
 Horse Mountain,) so called because in the sickly 
 season for horses, they are frequently sent hither 
 to escape the disease, and generally with success, 
 owing to its height. There is a Coranna kraal and 
 a fountain of water in a circular valley at the 
 bottom. We visited the kraal, and were kindly re- 
 ceived; but some of the children were excessively 
 afraid. Most of the Corannas attended our worship 
 at the waggons. 
 
 14th. Forty-six Corannas attended worship in the 
 morning, when many things were told them, through 
 an interpreter, about God and the Saviour. The laws 
 for Griqualand were also read to them, with which 
 they expressed themselves much satisfied. Left Horse 
 Mountain Valley at noon, (thermometer 6'o,) and 
 after a pleasant journey among hills till six, P.M. we 
 arrived at a Griqua village, where Nicholas Bern, 
 brother to the Captain, resides. Travelled N.
 
 AUG.] CONTINENT OF AFRICA. 36/ 
 
 Remarkable is the attachment which the natives of 
 warm climates have to the manners and customs of 
 their forefathers. The Chinese, Hindoos, Turks, and 
 many other nations, dress, build their houses, &c. in 
 the very same way as their progenitors did two thou- 
 sand years ago. In south Africa it is the same. If 
 you see only one Matchappee, Coranna, or Bush- 
 man's house, you see an identical pattern of every 
 house belonging to that particular nation. As birds 
 of the same kind build their nests exactly alike, so do 
 the difterent African tribes, hardly ever differing in 
 size. 
 
 15th. Mr. R. preached in the morning in Dutch 
 to the Griquaas, and at the same time Mr. Janz 
 preached, through an interpreter, to thirty-two Coran- 
 nas who came from the neighbourhood. In the after- 
 noon they reversed it. While we were celebrating the 
 Lord's supper, the Corannas sat witnessing it with 
 seriousness. 
 
 Near our waggons I observed a camel-thorn tree 
 stripped of its leaves by the winter which was just 
 over, but there were three branches of a different 
 kind of tree, or bush, which had been ingrafted into 
 it by a bird, which is a common occurrence in this 
 country ; these three branches were full of leaves. 
 
 16th. We named this out-post Rowland Hill Dorp. 
 Thermometer at noon 76. At one, P.M. we departed, 
 and till three, P.M. travelled due N. when turning
 
 3^8 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 round the point of a hill we travelled westward over a 
 desart of sand until eight, P.M. when we reached 
 Vansittart Mountains, and travelled S.W. in which 
 direction we continued till half an hour after midnight, 
 when we halted in a corner formed by the hills, where 
 there was no water. We named it World 's-end-corner^ 
 from the remarkable solitariness of the place. 
 
 We halted several times during this long and fatigu- 
 ing journey over sand, especially after the going down 
 of the sun, for among seven waggons there must often 
 be something going wrong, either an ox becoming 
 restive, or some part of the harness breaking; and 
 when one waggon stops in such a country as this, the 
 rest must wait for it, as it is dangerous to travel alone. 
 
 17th. When day light appeared, to our great morti- 
 fication we found that a fountain from whence we ex- 
 pected water, was dried up : the disappointment was 
 the greater, from knowing that we were two good 
 days' journey from the Great River, which was the 
 nearest place from whence we expected even a cup of 
 water; but it was necessary, by a great exertion, to 
 travel two days' journey in one. Some Bushmen with 
 their chief, whose name was Owl, visited us, and gladly 
 received a present of a little tobacco. The view from 
 World's-end-corner was very extensive over the desart, 
 in which the eye was relieved by little hills of various 
 shapes rising up out of the sand. Thermometer at 
 noon 80, at v/hich time we began crossing Vansittart 
 Mountains, which bound Griqualand to the westward.
 
 AUG.] CONTINENT OF AFRICA. 369 
 
 We plucked some red berries from a branch 
 engrafted by a bird on a different kind of tree. They 
 are filled with a glutinous substance, which is used as 
 bird lime, for catching birds. On clearing Vansittart 
 Mountains, we entered a desert of sand, which, com- 
 mencing at the Great River to the south, runs up 
 Africa to the north, no one knows how far. How- 
 ever I think it very probable that this desert is the 
 same in which IMateere and other Matchappees tra- 
 velled about five moons, nearly in one direction, living 
 entirely on wild water melons, of which we saw many 
 strewed about, which, though of a very nauseous taste, 
 may, on an emergency, serve both for food and drink. 
 Many a melancholy groan proceeded from the poor 
 thirsty oxen, while dragging our waggons through deep 
 sand across the desert. What a mercy the wind did 
 not rise and bury us in waves of sand ! Many a 
 longing look was directed towards that quarter where 
 we expected to find the Great River, but when the 
 sun forsook us and went to illumine other lands, there 
 was no indication of our approach to water ; nothing 
 but paixhed sand scantily mixed with small tufts of 
 withered grass. No beasts nor birds, and but few 
 insects, were visible ; the land was forsaken, and no 
 doubt it is the desire of every traveller to get out of 
 it as fast as possible. In a word, there was nothing 
 in it either to please the eye, to gratify the taste, or to 
 quench the thirst. Exactly at midnight the cry of 
 river! river! relieved us all, and made us at once 
 forget our toils. Our oxen having tasted no water 
 during two long and toilsome days' journey seemed as 
 
 3 B
 
 370 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 if unable to contain as much water as they felt they 
 required. The mountains, which bounded Duncan 
 Desert to the westward, we named Teignmouth 
 Mountains. 
 
 18th. When every thing seemed almost ready 
 for crossing the Great River, behold our spare 
 oxen were missing. The day before they were sent 
 forward under the care of three of our men, but 
 towards evening some Elks appearing, the men 
 left the oxen and pursued them, and the oxen, 
 they said, having smelled the river, proceeded 
 with such haste towards it, that they lost sight of 
 them, and could not afterwards trace them out. 
 These men went in search of them early in the 
 morning, and were expected every hour. In the 
 afternoon about twenty people from Griqua land 
 joined us, who intended to visit some of their relatives 
 farther down the river, and to travel with us for the 
 sake of protection. They observed no traces in 
 crossing the desert either of our men or oxen. Of 
 course we began to fear our oxen had fallen into the 
 hands of wild Bushmen, for they are generally blamed 
 for all the mischief that is done. About nine P.M. I 
 found there were no tidings of our oxen, for our men 
 had returned without finding them, but some people 
 from Griqua land, who had just arrived on ox 
 back, had observed the foot marks of ours, and some 
 were appointed to go in search of them early in the 
 morning.
 
 ATJO.] CONTINENT OF AFRICA. 371 
 
 On the banks of the river near our waggons were 
 two reed houses pretty well made^ and several spots 
 of ground planted with tobacco, one of the old stalks 
 of which measured eight feet, the property of some 
 bastard Bushmen who reside here while it grows, to 
 guard it till it comes to perfection. 
 
 The river divides, immediately opposite where we 
 halted, into three streams, occasioned by two islands, 
 but after passing the islands they reunite. It is con- 
 sidered a good place for crossing. 
 
 19th. Several of our people went off early this 
 morning in search of the cattle lost two days ago, and 
 of others which had strayed since that time. The 
 scarcity of grass at this season, being immediately 
 after winter, disposes the cattle to move farther and 
 farther off in the hope of finding more. 
 
 After breakfast I took a solitary M'alk for about 
 mile higher up, in the bed of the river, on pur- 
 pose to make sketches of some parts which, viewed 
 from a distance, appeared interesting. I ascended 
 to the top of a high rock nearly in the middle 
 of the bed of the river, which here is more than 
 a quarter of a mile broad, lined with high banks 
 covered with trees, so that none of the country can be 
 seen beyond them, except looking either up or down 
 the river, which renders the scene retired and romantic. 
 On taking out my paper and pencil, I was struck, as 
 I imagined, with the noise of men driving cattle, 
 
 3hQ
 
 372 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 which I hoped might prcjve to be our lost oxen 
 returning. This supposed sound led me to descend 
 from my rock, and hasten to the south bank to know 
 the truth. I reached a little eminence among the trees, 
 from whence I could neither see our oxen nor men, and 
 though there was not a breath of wind to cause noise, 
 I could hear nothing stirring. On turning my ear 
 northward I listened with deep attention, but could 
 distinguish no sound, though sometimes I fancied I 
 heard a distant roar of a lion, and at other times the 
 bark of a dog. I turned my ear eastward, and west- 
 ward, and southward, listened and listened again, but 
 nothing was audible except the distant cry of the 
 raven, or the still chirp of some solitary bird — no 
 raiding of carriages, prancing of horses, or cracking 
 of whips, as in Cheapside or the Strand ; no, a dead 
 terrifying silence brooded over the land. I hesitated 
 for some time whether to resume my seat on the 
 rock, or return to the waggons in quest of intelligence ; 
 my inclination preponderating to the latter, I walked 
 thither, but found nothing was known respecting our 
 oxen. However, soon after, we determined to cross the 
 Great River, and on the other side to wait for our 
 missing cattle, for the river might possibly rise while 
 Avaiting on the north side, and put a stop to our 
 proceeding for many days. It was surprising we did 
 not think of this sooner, as we had made so narrow 
 an escape at our former crossing it. 
 
 The bank of the river being between forty and fifty 
 feet high, and almost perpendicular, our people
 
 Aup.] CONTINENT OF AFRICA. 373 
 
 employed themselves very laboriously in cutting it down 
 in such a manner as that the waggons might get to 
 the channel of the river. By two o'clock all was in 
 readiness for crossing. Our three waggons were got 
 down the steep bank without any accident. The 
 first branch of the river was compleatly dry ; of course 
 we all travelled with ease to the west point of the 
 first island, which was about a quarter of a mile 
 distant, at which place the real crossing commenced. 
 Captain Bern, John Hendric, and one or two others 
 first entered the stream on horseback to examine its 
 depth. The current was strong, and it was about 
 three hundred yards wide. An ox, carrying on his 
 back the materials of a house, above which sat a little 
 naked boy, ^vas the first of our train that entered, 
 followed by the loose oxen, the sheep, and the goals ; 
 most of the two last were to be dragged by the men 
 till they got beyond the strongest part of the stream ; 
 during which they made no small noise, like the 
 screaming of children. Our three waggons followed — 
 then eight or ten Griqua women riding on oxen, most 
 of whom had children tied to their backs — next came 
 several men mounted on oxen, some of whom had 
 females in tow, holding them by the hand, to assist 
 them against the current. I observed a little boy 
 holding fast by the tail of an ox, the whole way across, 
 violently screaming while the current was strong. 
 The procession was closed by a mixed mtiltitude of 
 men, boys, girls, dogs, loitering oxen, sheep, and 
 goats. A great many of the oxen, sheep, and goats 
 were the property of the Griquaas who went
 
 374 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 — » 
 with us on a visit to their friends down the Great 
 River. 
 
 We were all now on an island, compleatly sur- 
 rounded by water. We walked to its western point, 
 from whence we crossed the next arm of the river, which 
 was about two hundred yards over, in the same order, 
 and with the same success as the former, and came 
 to another island ; walking across it, we came to the 
 last branch of the river, which might be about two 
 hundred and fifty yards wide, which we crossed much 
 in the same way, only the shaft of my waggon split 
 when descending the steep side of the island ; it held, 
 however, though when ascending the opposite bank, 
 which was steep also, it gave some serious cracks, 
 as if on the eve of breaking to pieces, when we 
 expected every minute the waggon would violently 
 roll back into the river, but after all we safely 
 landed. 
 
 When we had all got safe on the south side of the 
 Great River, the greatest difficulty seemed to remain, 
 for we found ourselves apparently hemmed in by a 
 thicket of trees a quarter of a mile deep, which 
 appeared to be impenetrable by waggons. This was 
 a serious obstruction. We thought of halting on the 
 spot, and cutting a path across the wood ; but this 
 would be a work of time; and likewise to halt on a 
 level with the river, and so near it, might prove 
 extremely hazardous, for should it swell in conse- 
 quence of rain higher up, every thing we possessed
 
 AUG.] CONTINENT OF AFRICA. 375 
 
 would be swept down by the stream, and should this 
 happen in the night, when we were asleep, we should 
 also be carried away together with our property — 
 and such risings of the river frequently occur in the 
 course of half an hour. After much examination, 
 an opening in the thicket appeared a little higher up 
 the river, which we entered, and after penetrating 
 through various obstructions, and passing different 
 ascents and descents of the ground, in a winding 
 direction, we at length reached the extremity of the 
 wood, to the no small satisfaction of us all. We were 
 about three hours in accomplishing this formidable 
 business of crossing that noble river. Our kind 
 Griqua friends, whose waggons were on the other 
 side, were obliged immediately to separate from us, 
 as the sun was gone down, and they scarcely had 
 light to find their way across to their friends, who no 
 doubt were anxiously expecting them. We felt 
 much at parting, especially with John Hendric, who 
 had never left us from his first joining us on this side of 
 the Great River, immediately after we had crossed 
 the Bushman country, about three months before, but 
 had followed us in all our journeyings.
 
 CHAP. XXX. 
 
 IMPEDIMENTS— OUfl IVIOTLY COMPANY— PASS A CORAN- 
 NA KRAAL— ESCAPE FROM A LION— FILPS KRAAL— 
 WHIRLWIND— HUIM AN 'S KRAAL. 
 
 Aug. 20tL, 
 
 1 HOUGH arrived safely on the south side of the 
 Great River, we had still something to trouble us 
 from the other side, for there were no tidings of the 
 recovery of our eighteen oxen, though it was the 
 fourth day since they were missing. Plaje, my wag- 
 gon driver a very active Hottentot, returned from 
 the search in consequence of his horse being unable 
 to travel any further on the deep sand. One horse, 
 belonging to a Griqua, died through fatigue. There 
 were other oxen besides ours also missing. In other 
 parts of the country they would have traced them by 
 their footsteps long ere now, but in that sandy desert 
 there are flocks of Elks constantly traversing it, by 
 which means the footmarks of our oxen are rendered 
 invisible, as well as by the drifting of the sand. Our 
 position was very pleasant, in a hollow, surrounded by 
 trees, and, though not within sight, we were within 
 hearing of the river; and from the ravages of time
 
 AUG.] JOURNEY ACROSS, &c. 377 
 
 upon many of the trees, we had abundance of firewood. 
 To witness generations of trees piled one upon ano- 
 ther is solemn, impressive, and instructive; one cannot 
 help musing on this striking representation of the ra- 
 vages of time on the generations of mankind. Tiiermo- 
 meter at sun-rise 40 : at noon 76- 
 
 21st. Thermometer at sun-rise 7^, vvith strong wind 
 blowing clouds of sand upon us. We had a little boy, 
 named Dookstens, (or Asbestos,) travelling with us. I 
 had supposed that much of his blackness was owing to 
 dirt covering his skin; I therefore took him to the 
 Great River, to try if I could wash him white; but 
 though I washed long, with the aid of soap, I found 
 him to be the Ethiopian, whose skin could not be 
 made white. 
 
 A little before dinner we were gratified by the sight 
 of our strayed oxen again. There were altogether up- 
 wards of fifty, thirty-three of which belonged to the 
 society instead of eighteen, as I at first understood. 
 They had actually returned to Rowland-Hill-Dorp, 
 just at the time some Corannas arrived there who 
 were to accompany us down the river, who brought 
 them along with them. Our people had returned to 
 the other side of the river after a very laborious though 
 unsuccessful search for them in the desert. One of 
 them, Keyser, had nearly lost his life for want of water. 
 He felt as if fire had been about the middle of his 
 back; he frequently thrust his head into the middle 
 of a bush to smell the damp that might be there, while 
 
 3 c
 
 Q7S JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813, 
 
 those who were with him dug up cold sand and put it 
 on his back, which he was obhged to do, from bush to 
 bush, until he reached the river. 
 
 22nd. Mr. and Mrs. Janz, Bern, Hendric, and N. 
 Bern, came across in the morning and spent the day 
 with us in worship, which obhged us to undergo a se- 
 cond time the pain of parting. Mr. Janz preached in 
 the morning, Mr. Reed in the afternoon, and I in the 
 evenins;. Thermometer at noon 76. 
 
 o 
 
 23rd. Began at day-light to prepare for moving down 
 the river, which we found very difficult to accomplish, 
 owing to a mixing of the cattle belonging to our friends 
 on the other side, with ours, and likewise to our having 
 some additional cattle with which our people were not 
 so well acquainted. The Corannas and Griquaas were 
 ready first, and set off before us. Truly it was a novel 
 sight. Were such a party to traverse the streets of 
 London, I think the crowd such a sight would occasion 
 would be inferior to none that ever assembled before. 
 I counted twenty-one persons mounted on oxen, chiefly 
 women in skin cloaks, most of them seated on the top 
 of their stuffy high above the backs of their oxen. 
 There were also three flocks of cattle, and one of 
 goats and sheep belonging to the society, Griquaas, 
 and Corannas, with various pedestrians. At ten, A.M. 
 our waggons followed in the rear, guarded by our 
 Hottentots carrying muskets. At eleven, A.M. we 
 passed a Coranna kraal, who had come only on that 
 morning to reside there. The women were all busy
 
 AUG.] CONTINENT OF AFRICA. 379 
 
 I. 
 
 in raising their huts, which is a business exclusively 
 allotted to them. They seemed considerably alarmed 
 at seeing us, and perhaps the more so as their men 
 were not come forward. I observed a venerable old 
 woman who was blind, and appeared the oldest person 
 I had seen in South Africa. The skin of her body did 
 not appear to be united to her flesh, but rather re- 
 sembled a loose sheet wrapt round her. The women 
 continued very busy at work as if they did not observe 
 us, but this was evidently the effect of fear. 
 
 The appearance of the country was interesting, 
 from the variety of hills that were in view, and the 
 windings of the Great River, but all barren in the 
 extreme, and seemingly incapable of cultivation, being 
 either sand, gravel, or covered with stones. The ther- 
 mometer in the shade at noon was 80 ; of course tra- 
 velling in the sun was truly oppressive. Except the 
 Coranna kraal, we did not see a human being the 
 whole day, nor any animals except a few fowls. At 
 four, P.M. we halted for the night, as the heat had 
 been very oppressive to our oxen. We had the re- 
 semblance of an encampment, there being about eight 
 or nine fires, surrounded with people cooking victuals 
 and conversing cheerfully together, though many of 
 them knew not where the next day's meal was to be ob- 
 tained, unless they killed some of their sheep or goats, 
 which they are not fond of doing if they can avoid it. 
 Their dependence is chiefly on game. Travelled W. 
 Three of our people were sick. 
 
 3 c 2
 
 380 JOURNEV ACROSS THE [181». 
 
 24th. We had rested at what may be called an 
 elbow of the river, for instead of running to the west- 
 ward it here turns towards the north. The place, 
 which we named Fraser Place, (after the Landdrost 
 of Albany) lies between a hill of rocks thrown together 
 in a confused mass and the river, and is a most charm- 
 ing spot. We left it at eight, A.M. and travelled over 
 sand, and sometimes small gravel, till half past nine, 
 A.M. when the heat became so oppressive that we 
 "were obliged to halt near the river at the foot of a 
 small hill, composed chiefly of loose rocks of blue 
 flint and while marble. Here we killed a black ser- 
 pent four feet and a half long, and eight inches in cir- 
 cumference : the day before we killed a similar one, 
 two feet and a half lon^j. The birds here seem to 
 live in kraals like the people, for twenty or thirty nests 
 frequently appear on a tree, without any others in the 
 immediate vicinity. W^e were tolerably shaded by the 
 trees during the hottest part of the day ; that under 
 which we dined formed a complete canopy and cur- 
 tain around by its hanging branches. 
 
 At three, P.M. we went forward, travelling over 
 sand, in which were many large stones and some 
 small sharp ones, which are very injurious to the 
 hoofs of the oxen. The dry beds of rivers which run 
 in the rainy season, from the steepness of their sides 
 were sometimes very troublesome. We had hills on 
 our left the whole day, to get round which occasioned 
 the winding of the river and our being obliged to tra- 
 vel N. We halted, at seven, P.M. Our fires were
 
 AUG.] CONTINENT OF AFRICA. 38T 
 
 made under the thick spreading boughs of what is 
 called the White-hole tree, of which the Matchappees 
 make their spoons. Hottentots and others frequently 
 sleep on the top of this tree, as on the roof of a house, 
 to escape the lions during the night. On such an occa- 
 sion a Hottentot, while asleep on one of them, fell down 
 upon a lion that happened to be asleep under the same 
 tree. The lion was so alarmed by the suddenness of 
 the stroke, that he fled far enough to permit the Hot- 
 tentot to regain his situation on the top of the tree, but 
 it is very probable he slept no more that night. No 
 natives were seen this day ; all was a silent, forsaken 
 wilderness. Thermometer at sun-rise 44 : noon 84 : 
 midnight 64. 
 
 25th. In the morning, day light discovered that our 
 situation was very pleasant, surrounded with hills at 
 various distances, with a fine view of the river. Being 
 now far from the sea in every direction, there was none 
 of that moisture in the air which the sea communi- 
 cates, but a peculiar dryness, so that my ink was almost 
 instantly dried up in the pen, and however wet the 
 pencil I used for my sketches in water colours, it 
 was almost dry before it could touch the paper. We 
 removed at two, P.M. when we were obliged to 
 leave the river, in order to get round some hills which 
 it approached. The way became more difficult, not 
 only on account of its unevenness, but also from the 
 number of stones, or pieces of marble, which were 
 thickly scattered about. We had likewise about six 
 times to cross the sandy bed of a river, with steep
 
 382 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 sides, which was very troublesome. This part of Africa 
 seems to be completely deserted by animals of every 
 kind. About four, P.M. two Corannas came to us, 
 one having a sheepskin over his shoulder, the other 
 an old man, had no clothing. They begged hard for 
 tobacco. 
 
 About sun-set we approached two Coranna towns ; 
 many of the inhabitants walked to the top of a neigh- 
 bouring hill to view us. We halted at six, P.M. at a 
 little distance from them. They had many hundred 
 oxen, cows, sheep, and goats. About forty of them 
 were sitting before our tent, feasting their eyes by gaz- 
 ing on us. They brought us plenty of milk to barter. 
 Travelled N. ail day. Thermometer at sun-rise 64 : at 
 noon 82. 
 
 26th. The kraal is called Filp Kraal, and contains 
 about one hundred and fifty inhabitants. About half 
 a mile on each side, is a small kraal of seven or eight 
 houses each. Most of them would be glad to receive a 
 missionary; but by their own confession they are a 
 divided people, and seemed reluctant to give a formal 
 answer. They neither sow nor plant, but depend 
 entirely on their cattle for subsistence ; of course, hav- 
 ing no labour to engage their attention, it is probable 
 they sleep away the greater part of their life. What a 
 blessing it would be to have the gospel and the arts of 
 civilized life introduced among them ! They appear 
 to be a dull, gloomy, and indifferent people. Our 
 arrival seemed to make no impression on any mind,
 
 I'Latt'lX. pix/]t 
 
 ■lAirs" BoriMAiS's C orabt^a krali .
 
 4UG.] CONTINENT OF AFRICA. 383 
 
 except in producing a little curiosity ; and they were 
 as indifferent about our departure, as if they had said, 
 you may come, or stay, or go ; it is the same to us. 
 They are so immured in the heart of this great conti- 
 nent, that probably none of them have heard of any 
 sea. At our departure, (at two, P.M.) a few women 
 and children went to the top of some rising ground, 
 and witnessed our moving along, but with a dull, un- 
 meaning stare. 
 
 On the north side of a river there is a plain without 
 any visible end, as void of trees as of hills, producing 
 only brown heath. Our way was chiefly over hard 
 loose stones, chiefly marble, white, blue, and purple, 
 which was very trying to our waggon wheels. At five, 
 the iron ring of one wheel was knocked off, which 
 obliged us all to halt for the night. Travelling N.W. 
 Thermometer at sun-rise 44 : noon 82. 
 
 27th. Thermometer at sun-rise 42 : at noon 84. 
 Near our waggons was a solitary grave, having a heap 
 of stones raised above it, and two long ones placed in 
 the centre. Whether Bushman or Coranna was buried 
 there, none of our party knew. On the other side of 
 the river, to the north, was a plain, bounded only by 
 the horizon, without trees, and covered only with heath, 
 which very probably is a part of the same desert we 
 had seen higher up. The Great River might be led 
 out to this plain, and made to run in various branches, 
 which would spread fertility as far as these branches 
 extended ; but in this land there are no people who
 
 384 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 have head or heart for such an undertaking, yet the 
 time may come when such an improvement may be 
 made. A cooUng wind generally rises a little after 
 noon, which is peculiarly acceptable in such scorching 
 days. While at dinner a whirlwind had nearly carried 
 the tent in which we sat into the air. Our table and 
 dishes were covered with sand, so that no one could 
 taste a morsel more. At four, P.M. we departed, hav- 
 ing been detained by the repairing of our wheel, and 
 travelled N.W. till six, P.M. when, on account of the 
 roughness of our way, we were obliged to halt for the 
 night. 
 
 28th. Thermometer at sun-rise 46: at noon 66. 
 The morning being cool, we departed at seven, and 
 continued travelling over stones and red sand until ele- 
 ven, A.M. when we again reached the river, which 
 makes a circuit round the north point of a range of 
 hills, the south end of which we passed, and named 
 them Stuart Hills. At three, P.M. we proceeded. As 
 the waggons were again obliged to pass round some 
 hills before they could rejoin the river, three or four of 
 us walked along its banks, but though pleasant it was 
 extremely fatiguing; there were many rocks to climb 
 over, and thickets of trees and bushes to penetrate 
 through ; however, I was repaid by a sight of the hippo- 
 potamus, or sea cow, which stood in the river nearly 
 covered with water, into which it sunk, and rose at 
 intervals to get fresh air. There it remains, and feels 
 enjoyment from doing so, the whole day ; and during 
 the night it grazes in the vicinity of the river. At seven.
 
 AUG.; CONTINENT OF AFRICA. 385 
 
 P.M. we and the waggons arrived at the same spot 
 near the river. Their way was very rough as well 
 as ours. 
 
 We saw several spots where tobacco had been 
 planted by some people, and there are none to steal 
 it, for the land seems destitute of inhabitants. The 
 country on the north side of the river continues still 
 to be a plain, without any visible end. 
 
 29th. Thermometer at sun-rise, 36. At noon, 66. 
 We were all glad to find the air a little cooler, but 
 our waggons suffered from the absence of moisture 
 in the atmosphere, as the timbers were all shrinking. 
 At three P.M. we departed in the hope of reaching 
 a Coranna kraal in three hours. The road was first 
 over stones, then hard, and at last deep sand. At 
 six P.M. we came to the place where we expected 
 to find the Coranna kraal, but they had removed 
 lower down the river, wherefore we halted. I preached 
 in the forenoon and Mr. Read in the evening, but 
 we were sorry we had not the congregation of Corannas 
 we expected. Travelled W. 
 
 30th. Thermometer at sun-rise, 32. At seven 
 A.M. we departed and travelled S.W. until nine A.M. 
 when we arrived at the Coranna kraal belonging to 
 Hans Huiman, a Dutch (or bastard) Hottentot. We 
 saw nothing worth recording; every thing was in a 
 state of nature, all wilderness, except the charming 
 river which kept us company on our right, whose 
 
 3 D
 
 386 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 banks continued lined with trees on both sides. 
 Three men belonging to Kok's kraal who joined us 
 the day before on their way to Griqua town, returned 
 with us to Huiman's kraal this morning, as they said 
 Kok was to consult us about removing to Griqua 
 land ; and they wished to be present. They went 
 forward to apprise Kok of our approach. Kok's 
 kraal, when nearer Griqua land some years ago, 
 was visited by Dr. Somerville and Mr. Truter of 
 Cape-town. 
 
 After breakfast I walked over to a part of Huiman's 
 kraal, which stood in the middle of a thicket of trees, 
 about half a mile distant. It is upon an eminence, 
 at the bottom of which runs a small brook, which 
 comes from the Great River. The village consists of 
 six houses, and about forty inhabitants, so compleatly 
 concealed in a small square surrounded with tall trees, 
 that it cannot be seen from any point when approaching 
 it, till you are among the trees. Sorry was I that I 
 could not converse with the people; we could only 
 look at each other, but on returning to the waggons 
 I got Cupido to go and tell them something about the 
 Son of God and his great salvation. Mr. Read 
 conversed with an aged blind man at the Kraal, who 
 could speak Dutch, whom he found very averse to 
 listen to any thing about the gospel. Huiman said, 
 that if a missionary came to Kok's kraal, he should go 
 and reside there. As they abound in cattle, we had 
 plently of milk while we remained. The people 
 seemed to have nothing to do but, like their dogs, to
 
 AUG.] CONTINENT OF AFRICA. 3S7 
 
 lie squat upon the grass, enjoying the sunshine until 
 the next meal. It is heart rending to see so many 
 clever looking young people having nothing either 
 to do or to learn ; their parents having no more to 
 inform them of than the cattle have to tell their young. 
 May the God of Israel pity them, and dispose his 
 people in England to exert their utmost, to relieve 
 them from their present state of wretchedness. Their 
 language, owing to the strange claps of the tongue on 
 the roof of the mouth must be difficult for a European 
 to acquire, but I hope not insurmountable. Surely it 
 cannot be so difficult to acquire as the Chinese. It 
 cannot be a copious language, as they have so few 
 things to talk of, but must be a pastoral language, only 
 having words adapted to the pastoral life. 
 
 3d 2
 
 CHAP. XXXI. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM HUIMAN'S KRAAL— OBSTRUCTIONS— 
 OX-RIDING— KOK'S KRAAL OF ORLAMS, &c.— LIST OF 
 DIFFERENT CORANNA TRIBES— KOKER TREE. 
 
 W E departed at three P.M. when almost the whole 
 kraal was collected to witness our leavino; them. Over 
 many a hard rock were our waggons dragged, at other 
 times through deep sand; dry beds of rivers were 
 frequently occurring, which were very troublesome to 
 pass, and which often made us anxious about our 
 waggon wheels. At five P.M. we passed a building 
 in ruins, which had been erected by one Stephanas, 
 whom I have formerly mentioned as having fled from 
 the colony, on account of having committed forgery. 
 It had been intended for a large substantial building, 
 for such a country as this, and perhaps may yet be 
 applied to some useful purpose. It stands in a very 
 rocky part of the country, only a few hundred yards 
 from the river. It is well built, for Stephanas was a 
 mason, and all was done by himself or under his 
 direction. At seven P.M. coming to plenty of fire
 
 AUG.] JOURNEY ACROSS, &c. 389 
 
 wood, we halted for the night, which was piercing 
 cold, thoush at noon the thermometer was 82. Such 
 extreme and sudden changes from cold to heat, and 
 from heat to cold, must considerably affect the 
 constitution. Many a rotten tree that had lain 
 unmolested since the ages of antiquity now perished 
 in a blaze. 
 
 :3 1 St. Thermometer at sun-rise, 34. At noon, 84. 
 Departed at seven A.M. Several of us walked by the 
 side of the river, as the waggons were obliged to make 
 a circuit round some hills. In two places I observed 
 rocks piled above each other in the form of piers, 
 running from the hills nearly to the river, which in 
 after ages may be turned to some advantage, when 
 I hope the country will be increased in population 
 and civilization. We reached the halting place at 
 nine A.M. but the waggons did not arrive till eleven 
 A.M. At five P.M. we were again in motion, and 
 travelled till seven P.M. one of the worst stages 
 during the whole journey; sometimes the wheels 
 sunk into the sand as deep as the axletree, at other 
 times the way was so covered with large stones, that 
 there was no choice of road. We often paused to 
 consider, what was to be done, as we feared it was 
 impossible to hold on much longer, without having 
 the waggons shivered to pieces. But after looking 
 round in every direction, without observing any way 
 of escaping these obstructions, we were obliged to 
 proceed, and Providence brought us to a resting 
 place at ten P.M. without suffering any material injury.
 
 590 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 We found a waggon standing under a tree. It belonged 
 to a Griqua, who had been obliged to leave it there, 
 in consequence of his oxen being unable to drag it 
 farther. Travelled W. 
 
 Sept. 1. We were now within one stage of Kok's 
 kraal, and as the waggon way thither was very circui- 
 tous, ten of us rode on oxen by the river at nine A.M. 
 The way over the hills was almost impassable even to 
 oxen, being covered with rocks in every direction — 
 my ox was sometimes on his knees, and on rising 
 I was sometimes in danger of having my eyes pierced 
 by his horns; however, in two hours we arrived at the 
 kraal, which is situated in an extensive square plain, 
 bounded on all sides by low hills. The plain is sand 
 with tufts of grass scattered over it. The majority 
 of the people are Orlams, and there are some who 
 forsook Griqua land, quietly to enjoy a plurality of 
 wives, and to live in every other respect without 
 restraint; of course much wickedness exists among 
 them. Our waggons did not arrive till four P.M. 
 the way being long and rough ; at one place, all the 
 twelve oxen which drew the baggage waggon lay down 
 upon the ground, being unable to proceed. They 
 were obliged to leave two oxen by the way, being 
 quite worn out and unable to travel; one of them 
 bled both at his mouth and nose. They were two of 
 our fattest oxen; indeed, such in general fail first. 
 No wonder the earth here is turned into sand, for they 
 had not had a shower of rain for six months. They 
 know of no inhabitants in the country immediately
 
 SEPT.] CONTINENT OF AFRICA. 391 
 
 beyond, nor north of them; indeed, they say it is 
 impossible for people to exist in it, as there is not 
 a drop of water to be had. They only know of a 
 few Bushmen, who live south of them, till you come 
 to the colony ; yet the country has its beauties. The 
 hills are covered here and there with fine trees and 
 charming shrubs, and that which is immediately 
 behind the kraal, to the westward, abounds with rocks 
 of crystal, sparkling like diamonds, and also of marble. 
 Were a lapidary here, I have no doubt that he would 
 soon collect a waggon load of valuable stones. There 
 are sand hills in sight, on the north side of the river, 
 red as scarlet. The poor inhabitants are enveloped 
 in ignorance and vice. We dined entirely on flesh ; 
 they have no grain of which to make bread. Here 
 we had to leave almost all the people who accompanied 
 us from Griqua land. 
 
 Names of the different tribes of Cor annas on the 
 Great River. 
 
 Cabusque, Stabbers. 
 
 Karossdragers, Weavers of karosses or 
 
 cloaks. 
 
 SpringbokkerSy Springbucks, being nume- 
 
 rous like that animal. 
 
 Karabers, or Kleinbontef Little spotted. 
 
 Naanar Wangs, Narrow cheeks. 
 
 Kannisgeis, 
 
 Bockbrief, Letter book 
 
 Sn2/ers, Cutters, or taylors.
 
 392 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 Hoogtens, Heights. 
 
 Zeekoe-dragers, Bearers of sea-cows. 
 Katmenchen, Cat-people, on account of their 
 
 having pursued a hartebeast across 
 
 a ford called Cat-ford. 
 lovernaans, Wizards. 
 
 Kokerbooms, Quiver trees. Trees from which 
 
 the Bushmen make their arrows. 
 Spinnekopsooger, 
 Links Staan, Standing to tlie left — this refers to 
 
 those at Malapeetzee. 
 
 2nd. Each of us collected a few crystalizations from 
 the hill behind the kraal. The natives smiled at our 
 employment, just as London people would, were they 
 to see some Chinese visitors picking up broken pieces 
 of bricks from the streets, and putting them in their 
 pockets to carry home as curiosities. As many of these 
 sparkling stones might easily be collected as would 
 cover the front of a house, which when the sun shines, 
 would certainly, in point of magnificence and gran- 
 deur, vie with any house in Mahomet's imaginary 
 paradise ; nay, even outshine the temple of Solomon 
 at Jerusalem. 
 
 When walking towards a hill to take a drawing of 
 the koker tree, (the leaves of which resemble the aloe, 
 and which we have seen in no other part of Africa, 
 though they are very numerous here, especially on the 
 summits of the hills,) some young people were advanc- 
 ing towards me, but no sooner did they observe me,
 
 sE^T,] CON'HNENT OF AFRICA. 393 
 
 ■'...' I. -ij 
 than they fled terrified, as from a lion. While they 
 were running, full of terror, I stood wondering how 
 they could possibly run so fast in so hot a day. la 
 dve minutes all were out of sight, concealed among 
 the bushes. They ware not indeed incumbered by any 
 dress. 
 
 The koker tree seems to delight to grow from the 
 most dry and rocky ground on the hills, and is ex* 
 tremely shy to descend into the plain, standing almost 
 uniformly aloof on the tops of hills. Many of them are 
 about ten or twelve feet in circumference at the bot- 
 tom, and quickly diminish in size till the branches com- 
 mence, which is at a height seldom more than seven or 
 eight feet : the shape of the cluster of branches resem- 
 bles that of an inverted bason ; the bark is white, in- 
 termixed with light yellow, and has a shining appear- 
 ance like satin. I have not seen one in flower. Alto- 
 gether it seldom exceeds sixteen feet in height. 
 
 Mr. R. preached last night, Cupido the Hottentot 
 this morning, and I in the evening. Cupido illus- 
 trated the immortality of the soul by alluding to the 
 serpent, who, by going between two branches of a 
 bush which press against each other, strips himself 
 once a year of his skin. " When we find the skin," 
 said he, " we do not call it the serpent ; no, it is only 
 its skin : neither do we say the serpent is dead ; no, 
 for we know he is alive, and has only cast his skin." 
 The serpent he compared to the soul, and the skin to 
 the body of man. 
 
 3 E
 
 394 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 Kok related to us that he went lately with a large 
 party of his people on an expedition against elephants 
 on the other side of the river, and that though they 
 travelled five or six days' journey up the country, (or to 
 the north,) they did not find one fountain of water. On 
 inquiring how they lived without water, like the 
 Matchappees, of whom we made the same inquiry, 
 they said, that water melons were every where scat- 
 tered over the ground, which, after being roasted on 
 the fire, yielded good water. 
 
 3rd. C. Kok seemed disposed to receive a mission- 
 ary, but had not much desire of it: he wished to leave 
 the decision to his father, old C. Kok, at Silver Foun- 
 tain, whom we expected to see on our return from the 
 Namacqua mission. In his kraal there are, of persons 
 who speak the Dutch language, and who are called 
 
 Orlams 215 
 
 Corannas 1 80 
 
 Bushmen • • • 30 
 
 Total 425 
 
 It is extremely desirable to make this a missionary 
 station, as it would unite, by a kind of link, the mis- 
 sions on the eastern and western coasts of Africa- 
 Some of the people are very anxious for instruction. 
 There is one man who can read a little, and Kok him- 
 self knows the letters. We urged him to persevere in 
 learning to read, pointing out its importance, should
 
 SEPT.] CONTINENT OF AFRICA. 395 
 
 he obtain a copy of the scriptures. He made us a pre- 
 sent of a young bull, which appeared a little wild; 
 however, one of our Hottentots caught it very dex- 
 terously by making a loOp at the end of a rope, which 
 he threw at the animal while running full speed, and 
 caught in it his hind legs, which when drawn close, 
 laid him on his side, when they killed him. Kok like- 
 wise lent us fourteen strong oxen, to assist us in tra- 
 velling to Namacqualand. 
 
 3 E 2
 
 CHAP. XXXII. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM KOK'S KRAAI^ ASSEMBLAGE OF 
 ROCKS— IN DIFFICULTY— HOTTENTOTS DRINK POISON 
 OF S>^AKE— ESCAPE FROM LIONS— SINGULAR NESTS- 
 WILD BUSHMEN SHOOT A HOTTENTOT AND CAPTURE 
 OUR CATTLE— STEPS TAKEN— REGAIN OUR CATTLE- 
 HOTTENTOT DIES— JOINED BY NAMACQUA MISSION- 
 ARY—ARRIVAL AT PELLA. 
 
 X HE next halting place on the side of the Great 
 River, is only ten miles from Kok's kraal by the side 
 of the river; but being extremely rocky, we were 
 obliged to make a circuit of thirty miles round the 
 mountains, to accomplish which we left the kraal at 
 five, P.M. The road proved very good for many 
 miles, and lay among a great number of small hills 
 composed of brown rugged rocks. About midnight wo 
 got so entangled among rocks, that for some time we 
 knew not how to extricate ourselves : at length, how- 
 ever, we surmounted them, and proceeded until the 
 moon set, which was at one o'clock, when we were 
 under a necessity to halt without water. 
 
 4th. Every one awoke with a headache this morn- 
 ing, which we concluded was owing to the great heat
 
 SEPT.] JOURNEY ACROSS, &c. 397 
 
 of the past day, especially as reflected from the sand. 
 Departed at seven, A.M. and reached the river by 
 nine, A.M. when all had an opportunity of satisfying 
 their thirst. Thermometer at noon S6. 
 
 We found a boor from the colony at Kok's kraal, 
 who had fallen deeply in love with a black woman, and 
 who on account of the opposition of friends to his 
 marrying her, and likewise of the minister's refusing 
 to perform his office, had left the colony and wan- 
 dered thither. They came by Sneuberg to the Cradock 
 River, which he with the other boors had formerly 
 considered to be the Great River, but he travelled 
 down its banks till it brought him to the Great River. 
 The couple appear low spirited, and no wonder, for 
 in a sense they are out of the world while in it. They 
 have a fine boy as white as any European child, 
 though the mother is as black as a native of Mosam- 
 bique. No doubt she must have her quaking moments, 
 lest her lover should grow weary of his banishment, and 
 forsake her to rejoin his friends and civilized society. 
 
 Being joined by our people, cattle, and strangers 
 who were to come by the short road, we departed at 
 four, P.M. and travelled over deep sand to the W. 
 until six, P.M. when we halted near the river. The 
 country around was level, sandy, and full of marble 
 rocks, shewing their white heads above ground. 
 
 5th. Thermometer at sun-rise 46: at noon 83. 
 Remained till four, P.M. when, understanding that
 
 898 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [i813; 
 
 ' ' — •■ 
 
 our next halting place was only two hours distant, 
 we departed, travelling N.W. but we did not reach 
 it till eleven o'clock, so much was our guide mistaken 
 as to the distance. The first part of the road was 
 among low barren hills, the remainder on a plain. 
 
 6\h. Having heard of a waterfall at no great 
 distance, several of us set off at nine A.M. with our 
 guide to see it. We soon reached what might be 
 called the metropolis of rocks, for so extensive a 
 collection I saw no where else. They lay on the 
 surface of many miles. The most conspicuous is 
 about half a mile in length, and five hundred feet high; 
 It has the appearance of an iron hill. Many low and 
 high hills are composed of huge rocks piled above 
 each other, and thousands of ponderous ones lie 
 scattered over the ground in every direction, to a great 
 distance, as if they had been transported thither by 
 some tremendous eruption. The river divides itself 
 into several branches which run in deep chasms, cut 
 out of solid rock perhaps five hundred feet deep. As 
 the sides were perpendicular it was impossible to get 
 down to the river. A stone thrown from the top was a 
 long time before it reached the river. We had heard 
 of the waterfall from various natives when we were 
 travelling down the river, but none of them had seen 
 it. Several had seen the mist arising from it, but the 
 sound had so terrified them they were afraid to ap- 
 proach it. After a search of several hours no water- 
 fall was either seen or heard. Our people who came 
 on foot by the side of the river from Kok's kraal saw a
 
 SEPT.] CONTINENT OF AFRICA. 399 
 
 small fall of the river, but that which we were in 
 search of was reported to be far greater. We 
 observed many parts of the river in these chasms, 
 which in the rainy season, when the river is swelled, 
 must have a most terrific appearance, from the quick 
 ,descent among huge rocks ; and being so far beneath 
 the surface from whence it is viewed, it must be one 
 of the grandest scenes imaginable. But at such a 
 season, it is probable, no human eye has yet seen it, 
 ^he country being without inhabitants. 
 
 Having descended about two hundred feet down the 
 chff, in order to take a sketch of one part of the river 
 which was curious, our guards above went away, not 
 knowing where I was. On returning to the top, they 
 all were gone. While wondering what was become of 
 them, I was joined by Mr. Read, who was equally 
 surprised at their departure. Our danger lay in 
 meeting with lions or tigers, while we had no means of 
 defence. The hill composed of one rock was our 
 compass by which we were guided towards our wag- 
 gons. It was about noon, and intensely hot — we both 
 considered it imprudent thus to have exposed ourselves 
 to the sun's scorching rays. After scrambling over 
 rocks about an hour, we reached the river which we 
 greatly longed to regain, that by means of its cooling 
 waters we might allay our heat and thirst. We had 
 the precaution not to drink a drop of water till we had 
 held our hands and feet for some time in it, which soon 
 circulated a coolness over us — then we washed our 
 heads, after which we ventured to drink, which was
 
 400 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [i8l3. 
 
 more gratifying to our taste than the best Constantia, 
 Champaign, or Madeira. We observed a rock near, 
 about the size of an ordinary house, which, by some 
 great swell of the river, had been driven from its place, 
 and so inclined against another as to form a roof 
 capable of protecting man or beast from the powerful 
 rays of a vertical sun. This rock seemed to invite us 
 to take shelter under it, which we did for at least half 
 an hour. While sitting under it, delightfully cool, 
 we could not but reflect upon the scripture which 
 compares the Saviour to ^' the shadow of a great rock 
 in a weary land." From beneath the shade of this 
 rock we came as cool and comfortable as when we set 
 out in the morning. There not being a breath of 
 wind, and the river gliding gently along, and the heat 
 having silenced the feathered songsters, there was in 
 the absence of human beings a stillness almost fearful. 
 We found some difficulty in getting from the bed of 
 the river, as it had many narrow streams and pools, 
 lined with impenetrable woods of the mimosa and 
 other trees. Having cleared one stream, we soon 
 came to another, which had all invisibly run under the 
 gravel at the place where we had entered the bed of 
 the river. We had to search for passages through the 
 thickets made by the wild beasts; at length after 
 passing along many windings, we cleared the wood 
 and reached our waggons about two o'clock, tired, 
 thirsty, and hungry, in consequence of walking almost 
 constantly for five hours over rugged rocks, and 
 without effecting the object of our journey. But it is 
 not surprising that this part of the river is so little
 
 «EPT.3 CONTINENT OF AFRICA. 401 
 
 linown among the natives of this region, as all access 
 to it is so extremely difficult, ilow these deep cliffs 
 •or excavations in solid rock (of a reddish hue), as hard 
 as flint, through uhich the various branches of the 
 river runs, have been formed, 1 cannot conjecture, 
 tmless by some most awful convulsion. It seems 
 surprising that such a wonderful work of God should 
 lie concealed from the inspection of mankind, in the 
 bosom of wild Africa. We saw many serpents but 
 received no injury; indeed the chief danger arises from 
 treading on them unawares among the long grass, 
 when they will instantly turn upon you and bite, 
 otherwise they will generally endeavour to esca{)e 
 from you. 
 
 It is very common among the Hottentots to catch 
 a serpent, squeeze out the poison from under his 
 teeth, and drink it. They say it only makes them a 
 little giddy, and imagine that it preserves them after- 
 wards from receiving any injury from the sting of that 
 reptile. I have co doubt, from the testimony of the 
 Hottentots who travelled with me, of the fact that 
 they do take it, but whether it be calculated to produce 
 the effect w hich the Hottentots pretend, I leave to the 
 decision of medical men. 
 
 At five P.INI. the air becoming more cool, we left 
 our halting place, and on our way passed two hills, 
 each of which was composed of a single rock, without 
 grass or bush on any part of them. Ihey had exactly 
 f he appearance of immense masses of iron, and though 
 
 3 F
 
 402 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 curious, they had a dull gloomy aspect. One of 
 them had a flat rock, level with the surface of the 
 ground, running out from its west end for about a 
 quarter of a mile — it was between thirty and forty 
 yards wide, and resembled a pavement of one stone. 
 The sand in the neighbourhood was red, producing 
 no grass, but only small, half withered bushes here 
 and there. We travelled till midnight, which was as 
 cold as a December nidit in Endand. We halted where 
 there w as neither water, nor grass, aor wood to burn ; 
 for in consequence of ridges of rocks running up the 
 country from the very edge of the Great River, we 
 were obliged to travel considerably south of it. After 
 worship we all hastened to go to sleep the best way we 
 could, without any supper. Thermometer at noon, 86. 
 TraveUing W. 
 
 7th. We proceeded forward at seven A.M. There 
 was a chain of hills about ten miles to our right, or 
 north, of about thirty miles in extent, which had the 
 appearance of a great wall, indeed it reminded us of 
 the great wall in China. In the morning at sun-rise, 
 the thermometer stood as low as 46, and at noon 66, 
 which was extremely favourable to our cattle, as we 
 were obliged to continue until two P.M. pushing 
 fonvard to water, where we halted in a sandy place 
 at the foot of what I called the Haldanean Mountains. 
 Here we had a new operation to perform, viz. to dig 
 for water in the dry bed of a river, when we found 
 plenty for ourselves, about five feet under the surface 
 of the sand. It appeared to be a stream which ran
 
 9RPT.} CONTINENT OF AFRICA. 403' 
 
 underground towards the Great River, and was 
 reported to form itself into pools lower down. 
 
 Though this part of Africa be nearly forsaken of 
 men, it has plenty of inhabitants — hundreds of lizards 
 and field mice were almost constantly visible, and so 
 unacquainted with man that they amused themselves 
 round about our waggons — and during the afternoon, 
 nine lions were seen in the vicinity. One of our 
 Hottentots was in imminent danger of being devoured 
 by three of them which he came upon unawares among 
 bushes. They stood looking towards each other for 
 some time ; when he turned about to make a sign to 
 his companion to come to his assistance they advanced, 
 but immediately, on turning his eyes towards them, 
 they made a halt ; when the other came up with his gun, 
 they walked off. We killed a large puff adder which 
 is a very venemous species of serpent. The evening 
 was cool which made us hasten to rest, so that I 
 believe not one of us was awake much after ten. 
 A few clouds appeared in the evening at the bottom 
 of the horizon to the westward which were viewed 
 as a rarity, having had almost constant sun-shine with 
 a clear sky for more than three months. 
 
 8th. Thermometer at sun-rise, 46. At noon, 70. 
 We proposed commencing our journey in the afternoon, 
 should our oxen return from water, in search of which 
 we dispatched three Hottentots with them on the 
 preceding day. 
 ^ 3t 9,
 
 404 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [i8i3. 
 
 The Psalmist, in his 23rd Psahii, speaks of the 
 Lord leading him " in green pastures, beside still 
 waters." The beauty and force of this expression 
 can hardly be conceived by one who never was out of 
 England. Five months had elapsed since we had 
 seen green pastures, all having been withered grass, 
 which is neither so pleasing to the eye, nor so nutritious 
 to the cattle. I longed to see green hills or plains, 
 and a river gently gliding along. 
 
 Nine o'clock at night came, but there was no 
 appearance either of our oxen or Hottentots who were 
 sent to guard them. We had various conjectures 
 as to the cause; perhaps while the men slept the 
 oxen strayed, or the Bushmen on the river had stolen 
 them. Our two milch goats ran off, and were sought 
 for in vain — the lions might devour them during the 
 night. Our situation was awkward, for every thing 
 was packed up and ready for setting off, but without 
 our oxen we could not move an inch, and were in the 
 middle of a barren desart. 
 
 10th. Thermometer at sun-risCii 48. In the morn- 
 ing we had no intelligence of our oxen or goats. 
 Parlies were dispatched in search of both. 
 
 The bush louse, as it is called, became very trouble- 
 some to us — it is black, and about the size of a large 
 bug. When it fixes on the skin of a person, it is 
 hardly possible to get it off without cutting it to pieces, 
 indeed it sticks so close to the skin, that it cannot be
 
 sEi-T.] CONTINENT OF AFRICA. 405 
 
 felt by the touch. If you try to scrape it off with 
 a knife, the knife sHdes over it. One fixed on my 
 wrist ; no means which I used to take it away 
 succeeded. One of our people poured the juice of 
 tobacco upon it, which made it raise itself a little 
 above the skin, when he seized it and tore it away. 
 When it has sucked itself full of blood then it falls off 
 of its own accord. The poor cattle are sometimes 
 covered with them, which when the crow perceives, 
 he comes and stands upon the cow's back till he has 
 picked as many as satisfies his hunger. The cow 
 is so pleased with his employment that she gives him 
 110 molestation till he has finished his repast. 
 
 A tree at a little distance from our waggons had two 
 remarkable nests on it. The one was about four 
 yards in circumference, and the other three, and about 
 a yard in depth. They are built of coarse grass, by a 
 small bird which resembles our goldfinch. One of 
 these nests had seventeen holes in the bottom by which 
 the bird enters, the other had $even. At one time 
 I saw about a hundred birds come out of them. 
 Instead of being the nest of a single pair of birds, 
 they seem to be kraals, or towns of birds. Perhaps 
 one may be the property of a single pair in which they 
 accommodate all their descendants. A horned owl 
 had taken possession of the outside of the roof of the 
 largest for a nest : she was sitting on it, and it appeared 
 from the bones and hair strewed under that she lived 
 upon the field mouse, I had the curiosity to climb
 
 400 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [181^. 
 
 the tree on purpose to examine this phenomenon in 
 nature. The roof was neatly thatched, and a hollow 
 in the middle to contain the owl, but no passage 
 leading to the inside. I had no way to examine the 
 apartments within, without destroying a great part 
 of the nest, which would have been a cruel operation, 
 wherefore I left it in the same state in which I found 
 it, contented with taking a drawing of the tree and the 
 two nests. Thermometer at noon, 84. 
 
 I was for some time surprised how such multitudes 
 of lizards and mice, as inhabit the desart, could live 
 without water, but I observed many succulent plants, 
 of various kinds, hanging full of small berries con- 
 taining water. I poured out of one large berry about 
 three tea spoonfuls of water, and I witnessed the mice 
 dragging them into their holes, just as seamien take 
 casks of water into their ships. This is a wonderful 
 provision God has made to supply the wants of these 
 little animals. 
 
 I gently threw a small stone at a lizard, without 
 any intention to hurt it, which struck off its tail ; the 
 tail leaped about for five minutes, and moved, some- 
 thing like a serpent, to three yards distant. The poor 
 lizard, as well as myself, stood wondering at this 
 exhibition. When I mentioned this circumstance to 
 our Hottentots, they informed me, that like serpents, 
 after their heads are cut off, they live until the going 
 down of the sun.
 
 «ept:] continent OF AFRICA. 407 
 
 Nine o'clock at night arrived again, without our 
 gaining any intelHgence of our men or oxen, only we 
 thought we heard the report of two muskets fired at 
 a distance. About half past nine, immediately after 
 our worship, we heard a musket shot at no great 
 distance, then a second, and a third, which led us 
 to conclude something was wrong; of course we 
 dispatched five or six of our people with muskets 
 to the place from whence the firing proceeded. It 
 was but a little while before part of them returned, 
 with one of the three men who had been with the 
 cattle. He said they had been attacked by wild 
 Bushmen who had wounded Peekure in the back, 
 immediately under his neck, with a poisoned arrow, 
 and had carried off all the cattle. While relating 
 the doleful tidings, poor Peekure and the third young 
 man who had been with the cattle came up. His 
 wound was large, owing to the difficulty they had 
 of getting out the pieces of the arrow which had 
 remained in the wound, which they picked out with 
 an awl. Our men ran to their arms, to endeavour 
 to retake our cattle. By ten o'clock ten of them 
 were ready to set off. Mr. Read begged them, if 
 possible, to spare the lives of the Bushmen, to 
 endeavour to get between them and the Great River, 
 and to come upon them by surprise. Without this 
 precaution we were afraid they would shoot the 
 catde and run off. A tame Bushman from Griqua 
 town went off widi them, with his bow and arrows, 
 without being desired.
 
 408 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 Our situation was now very distrcsolng, being in the 
 jnidst of a desert, with three loaded waggons, and not 
 a single ox in our possession to draw them. Five 
 Bastard Hottentots, who were on a hunting expedition, 
 and halted a little with us in the morning, we knew 
 were to be at some place to the south-west, at about 
 five hours distance. We dispatched four men, to in- 
 form them of our situation. Also, lest we should be 
 attacked during the absence of so many of our men, 
 we examined what were our means of defence. We 
 found that three of our people had sold, or rather ex- 
 changed, their muskets for cattle at Griqua town, 
 supposing, without any reason but their own ignorance 
 of what remained of our journey, that the dangerous 
 part of it was over when we returned from Lattakoo. 
 IMr. Reed told me that the Hottentots were ignorant 
 where or how we were travelling ; that they could not 
 understand how the sun at one part of the journey rose 
 on their right hand, and on their left at another; but 
 they had such full confidence in him, that I believe 
 had there been a way by which he could have taken 
 them down to the other side of the world, had he gone 
 first, they would have followed him : of course they had 
 no care, only to follow us. Only five guns were found 
 to be with the waggons ; the others had assagays and 
 Bushmen's bows and arrows. 
 
 We considered it our duty first to attend to these 
 measures and precautions, after which to have recourse 
 to the grand refuge in times of trouble — the throne of 
 grace. W^e assembled together, and united in prayer.
 
 SEPT.] CONTINENT OF AFRICA. 409 
 
 Mr. Read and Cupido led the worship. We did every 
 thing in our power for the poor wounded man, who 
 had a wife and three small children at Bethelsdorp, 
 ignorant of his situation. 
 
 Some of our people were of opinion, that the Bush- 
 men had been watching our motions the whole way 
 down the river, and had chosen to make their attack 
 at that place, as farthest from assistance. Others, that 
 the Bushmen who had attacked us were in connexion 
 with Africaner, a plundering chief, who is the terror of 
 that part of Africa, and that this only preceded the 
 grand attack. Others were certain, that all our cattle 
 Mould be killed, as it was the custom of Bushmen 
 when they took many cattle at a time, knowing the 
 difficulty of driving away many, to select a few of the 
 best, and to shoot the rest with their poisoned arrows- 
 
 All remained awake but myself; but being without 
 means of either offence or defence, and every thing 
 being in as good order as we could put them, I went 
 aside to take a little rest. I had hardly lain down 
 when one came and advised me not to sleep. An hour 
 after, I was informed that our men were in combat 
 with the Bushmen, which I did not believe, having 
 been awake half an hour and heard nothing. At three 
 o'clock in the morning, however, I heard two shots 
 fired, and then a third. On this I left the waggon, 
 when one of the Hottentots (Boosak) pointed out a 
 great cloud of dust, which the moonlight rendered vi- 
 sible, and was occasioned by the moving of our cattle. 
 
 3 G
 
 410 JOURNF.Y ACROSS THE [18I3. 
 
 They were running quick, for the cloud approached us 
 fast. At length the oxen became visible ; but we were 
 afraid to approach to hear the report of our men, 
 dreading that some lives had been lost in the recap- 
 ture. We were rejoiced to find they had obtained the 
 eattle without resistance. Being night we could not 
 count the cattle, so we were ignorant whether we had 
 sustained any loss. After meeting to return thanks to 
 God for the regaining of our cattle, we went to rest, 
 leaving some to watch. 
 
 10th. As soon as day-light appeared we numbered 
 our cattle, and were pleased to find that not one was 
 missing. Our three Hottentots who were with the 
 cattle, viz. Peekure, Frederic, and Michal, gave us the 
 following account of the matter : that not finding any 
 pools lower down the dry bed of the river, they went 
 forward till they came to the Great River, which was 
 upwards of twenty miles. They observed, while they 
 halted at the river, some Bijshmen at a distance, lurk- 
 ing among the bushes* They had not seen more than 
 four. On leaving the river the Bushmen followed 
 them, but concealing themselves as much as possible 
 among the bushes. When almost dark, they had 
 taken their aim at Peekure, being a tall and strong 
 man, perhaps supposing if they could bring him down, 
 they would easily overcome the others, who were 
 young. When he found himself wounded, he ran to 
 one of his companions and asked him to pull out the 
 arrow. He did so ; but two pieces of it remained in 
 the wound, which he had the fortitude to pick out
 
 SEPT.] CONTINENT OF AFRICA. 41i 
 
 with an awl, while the other young Hottentot kept 
 off the Bushmen with his musket, which he fired 
 towards the place from whence he thought the arrow 
 proceeded. They then left the oxen, that they might 
 bring their wounded com[)anion to the waggons. 
 When at a considerable distance they tired twc? shots, 
 which no doubt were those we supposed we heard. 
 Perhaps the Bushmen did not know that the oxen 
 were completely given up to them, but might suppose 
 the men were concealing themselves among the bushes 
 for their protection, and that the shots fired by them 
 at a distance, as they advanced towards the waggons, 
 were from people coming to their assistance. This is 
 the only way by which we couW account for none of 
 the oxen being carried off. 
 
 We did every fhing for the poor wounded man in 
 our power, by cutting out the flesh all round the 
 wound, administering eau de luce, and laudanum to 
 mitigate the pain ; but he lay groaning the whole night. 
 
 The five Bastard Hottentots to whom mc had sent 
 an account of our situation, came to our assistance at 
 five o'clock in the morning, to whom we expressed our 
 gratitude. There being no water for our oxen, we were 
 obliged to depart at ten, A.M. moving slowly for the 
 sake of our wounded man. At half past one his pain 
 was so great, that we were obliged to halt at the foot 
 of a mountain composed of black loose stones, and to 
 lay him down under a bush from which he was never 
 
 3 G 2
 
 412 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 to rise. His appearance alarmed us, being greatly 
 swelled, particularly about the head and throat. He 
 said that he felt the poison gradually work downwards 
 to his very toes, and then ascend in the same man- 
 ner : as it ascended his body swelled. He felt very 
 anxious, often turning on liis face, and crying to 
 Jesus for mercy for his soul. He thought he felt the 
 chief strength of the poison to lodge in one of his 
 cheeks, and requested that the cheek might be cut off, 
 which we did not comply with, persuaded that his 
 whole frame was equally contaminated. The Bush- 
 man we had with us said in the morning, that Peekure 
 would die immediately on the going down of the sun, 
 which he certainly did; for the sun had not dipped 
 under the horizon five minutes before he breathed his 
 last. His countenance w^as frightful, being so dis- 
 figured by the swelling. On his brow was a swelling 
 as large as a goose's egg. He has left behind him a 
 widow and three children, 
 
 As we were under the necessity of halting all night, 
 though without water, our people fortified the place 
 by surrounding the fires with a wall composed of 
 bushes which they cut down, lest the Bushmen, whom 
 we understood to be numerous in that part, should 
 attack us during the night. We likewise sent forward 
 all our oxen, retaining only as many as were necessary 
 to draw our waggons, that they might get water as soon 
 as possible, which divided our strength, but there was 
 no alternative. Thermometer at noon 76.
 
 SEPT.] CONTINENT OF AFRICA. 413 
 
 On conversing again with the two surviving Hotten- 
 tots, who went with the cattle for water, we had the 
 following additional particulars. The three went on 
 the 7th to search for a place a few miles below our 
 waggons, where water was reported to be; and were 
 desired, if they did not find water, to send one of their 
 number to us with the information. They passed the 
 place without observing it ; and one of the young men 
 frequently advised that they should proceed forward to 
 the Great River, which certainly was improper, as the 
 cattle, from its distance, must have been as thirsty on 
 their return to the waggons, as when they departed ; 
 but he did it with the view of shooting sea cows. 
 Peekure was always against this ; but two being against 
 him, they proceeded to the river. While there, they 
 observed four Bushmen at a distance, but did not mind 
 them much. The heat was so great on Thursday, (Sept. 
 9,) when returning, that they travelled very slowly, 
 but observed no Bushmen. When it grew cooler, they 
 quickened their pace. A little after sun-set, an arrow 
 was shot from behind a bush, but being almost dark, 
 they perceived no person near them. One or two of 
 them iired towards the bush, but saw no effect. By this 
 single shot poor Peekure's death was effected. It is re- 
 markable, that he was not invited to come with us from 
 Bethelsdorp on this journey, but he followed us to Graaf 
 Reynet, to request us to take him with us as one of our 
 guards : nor was he, at the time he was shot, desired 
 to go with the cattle; but observing one who had been 
 grumbling at the appointment, he went up to him,
 
 41 1 JOURNEY ACROSS THE [1813. 
 
 asked his gun, and said lie would go for him. Ther- 
 mometer at noon 76. 
 
 11th. To our no small surprise and gratification, 
 about midnight we were joined by Mr. Schmelen, 
 a missionary, and several people belonging to the 
 Namacqua mission, who happened to be at an out- 
 post, and heard of our situation from the persons we 
 had dispatched to seek help. Their arrival remind- 
 ed me of Paul's feelings at Appii-forum; when the 
 brethren from Rome met him, he " thanked God and 
 took courage."* These friends informed us that Bush- 
 men had followed us from the Waterfall, watching for 
 an opportunity to plunder us ; that these poor crea- 
 tures had been so ill treated by the boors from the 
 colony, that they now endeavour to murder every man 
 who wears a hat, which is the only way by which they 
 can distinguish a boor. They are connected with 
 Africaner, giving him a share of what plunder they 
 take, especially if they find powder. 
 
 At seven in the morning we interred the remains of 
 poor Peekure, at the foot of the mountain behind our 
 Maggons. His body was tied up in his caross, or 
 shepherd's cloak. At the grave Mr. Read gave an ad- 
 dress, after which we joined in prayer and sang a 
 hvmn. 
 
 Acts xxviii. 15.
 
 SErr.] CONTINENT OF AFRICA. ' 415 
 
 At ten, A.M. we left Death-vale, and at a little 
 distance we killed a yellow serpent about six feet long, 
 the first of that kind we had seen on our journey. We 
 travelled westward over a deep sandy plain, with hills 
 to the right and left. As all our \vater was ex- 
 pended, we were obliged incessantly to proceed till we 
 should come to some fountain; but we did not arrive 
 at one till half past ten o'clock at night, when we 
 reached Kabas Fountain, which lay behind a range of 
 mountains which were in view the whole of the day. 
 The sight of water was truly pleasant to man and 
 beast. Here we found our cattle that had been sent on 
 before. Some of our cattle had not tasted water for 
 three days; they drank, and drank again, and seemed 
 loath to leave it. 
 
 12th. In the morning we found, that though there 
 was water, yet there was not a blade of grass for our 
 poor worn out oxen to eat ; consequently, though the 
 Lord's day, we were obliged to hasten away as fast as 
 possible; wherefore at ten, A.M. we travelled N. 
 along the foot of Kabas Mountains, over sand and 
 rocks, till near four, P.M. when we came to a romantic 
 corner, where we found Pella, the Namacqua mission- 
 ary station, and with much pleasure met the brethren.^ 
 In the evenin<y w'e had a meeting to return thanks to 
 God for our preservation on our journey. Thermo- 
 meter at noon 80 : at three, P.M. in the waggon, while 
 descending the long sand hill to Pella, 98.
 
 CHAP. XXXIII. 
 
 NAMACQUA LAND. 
 
 OCCURRENCES AT PELLA— EXCURSION— SINGULAR DIS- 
 EASE AMONG SHEEP. 
 
 Sept. 13th. 
 
 JjjM PLOYED the greater part of the day, in col- 
 lecting information respecting the Damara, and other 
 nations beyond Great, or North Namacqua land. The 
 Namacquaas who were collected to give the informa- 
 tion were surprised and amused by many of the 
 questions asked, being unable to conceive why I 
 wished to know such things about a people I had 
 never seen. To observe their significant smile while 
 answering some of my questions was very entertaining. 
 Thermometer at sun-ri<e, 50. At noon, 88. 
 
 The Namacquaas live in low circular huts, like the 
 Corannas, composed of branches of trees bent, and 
 stuck into the ground at both ends, with mats made 
 of rushes thrown over them. They differ from the 
 Corannas in this, that in the inside they dig about a 
 foot, or a foot and a half, into the ground, which they
 
 riateX.I'a^,- ■Uv 
 
 MEETING HOliTSE & M?A1LBKICHT S MOUSE, FEJLJLA . 
 
 KXMTAJfifss W I^ARilACQifA s^OUNTKlT.
 
 SEPT.] NAMACQUA LAND. 417 
 
 lie in to protect them, they say, from the wind. A 
 more barren looking spot can hardly be conceived than 
 Pella, all around being white sand, interspersed with a 
 few bushes ; two sides of which space, the N. and E. 
 are bounded by high, rugged, black mountains. 
 
 We visited their gardens in the afternoon, the sight 
 of which cast a gloom on every countenance. It was 
 the second month in their spring, many things had been 
 sown, but most had perished, in consequence of the 
 saltpetre with which the ground was impregnated, as 
 soon as they had raised their heads above ground — 
 others seemed struggling to live. I do not recollect 
 observing a single smile in any countenance, while 
 viewing the garden. The water is the only temptation 
 they have to remain at Pella. The banks of the Great 
 River, which are only about four miles distant, are so 
 covered with rocks that they cannot live on it. 
 
 14th. Thermometer at noon, 84. We had still 
 uninterrupted sun-shine, but though cheering to look 
 upward, it was gloomy to look downward, for every 
 thing had a sickly, dying aspect. At dinner a whirl- 
 wind came, which filled the house full of dust, and 
 obliged us to spread a cloth over what was on the table 
 till it subsided. 
 
 I was greatly pleased with an exercise which Mr. 
 Helm had with tlie young people in the morning, viz. 
 reading some verses out of the Bible, and explaining 
 them in a simple way by question and answer. As 
 
 3 H
 
 418 NAMACQUA LAND. [ISl^J. 
 
 most of the people understand only the Namacqua 
 lansuage, the missionaries are obliged to address them 
 through interpreters, of whom they have two, who 
 appear well qualified for the office — they speak with 
 readiness and apparent interest. 
 
 15tli. In the morning we took a ride through the 
 kloof, or defile, to the Great River. In our way ran 
 a brook of brackish or salt water, which disappeared 
 among sand and appeared again about eight times. 
 We had only been a few minutes at the river, when 
 Mr. Read caught a large fish among the stones, which 
 directed the attention of all to the obtaining more, 
 and they obtained near two dozen of various kinds 
 in the course of an hour. Perhaps this little circum- 
 stance may increase the comfort of the settlers at 
 Pella, who were not aware that fish could be so easily 
 obtained. The people are not fond of fish, yet to save 
 their sheep, they may be induced to catch a few now 
 and then, which may in time produce a fondness for 
 that kind of food. 
 
 The river was bounded by extremely barren and high 
 mountains on each side, which barely gave it room to 
 run in. Those on the north side are almost black, 
 with hardly a blade of grass, only a solitary koker 
 tree here and there; those on the south side are 
 composed, some of red, others of brown stone, which 
 appeared as if the surface had been in a furnace, 
 with the ashes strewed over them. The heat which 
 they endure must be great, for their aspect is directly
 
 SEPT.] NAMACQUA LAND. 419 
 
 facing the sun. The lively green of the trees which 
 line the river on botii sides, forms a striking contrast 
 with the melancholy, death-like appearance of these 
 mountains. The structure of the mountains is their 
 only beauty, which is so diversified and stupendous 
 as to compel one to view them with wonder, though 
 I believe they have had but few admirers since their 
 creation. We rode along the south bank of the river 
 about five or six miles down, when we tuined up, 
 by a narrow cut, through the mountains, about two 
 miles of which resembled a giants staircase — we 
 ascended on horseimck, step after step, which was 
 very troublesome to our horses, as some of the steps 
 were esbout two feet high, and many of the broad 
 flint rock^ over which they had to go, were smooth 
 and slippery. The sun was nearly down before we 
 reached the summit of this narrow pass, which in most 
 places was only a few yards w ide ; though the sides 
 were many hundred feet in perpendicular height. 
 Some parts of the country at the summit were so 
 thickly strewed with saltpetre, that it appeared 
 covered with snow. By digging in the sand at one 
 place we found ^vater to allay our thirst. Then we 
 rode for two hours at a quick rate before we came in 
 sight of the lights of Pella, where we arrived about 
 eight o'clock. We took this circuitous way home, 
 to examine a fountain which Mr. Albricht wished us 
 to see, but our guide forgot to point it out to us when 
 we Mere passing near it, and as night was coming on 
 before we discovered the error, we could not return to 
 search for it. 
 
 3h 2
 
 420 NAMACQUA LAND. [1813. 
 
 We found it would be no easy matter to get away 
 from Pella before the rainy season in January, as a 
 wide desert lies between it and the colony. The 
 missionaries were acquainted with three ways. In 
 the east way, there is no water for three long days 
 journey — in the middle way, no water for three days 
 journey, and at that season even the fountain or pool 
 would be dry — the west way is down the Great River 
 for several days journey, most of the road being stony 
 and rocky, and much exposed to wild Bushmen ; after 
 leaving the river there are two long days journey 
 across the desert to Kamis Mountain without water. 
 The missionaries advised we should remain tillJanuary 
 when the rains are expected. The middle road 
 being impassable, and the river road being double the 
 distance, and so rocky as to endanger our waggons, we 
 were resolved to try the east one. 
 
 I6th. Thermometer at noon, 84. A very destructive 
 disease lately got among the sheep in the Namacqua 
 country, which has reduced several persons from a 
 state of affluence to poverty. In the night time when 
 the sheep are asleep in the kraal, all at once they will 
 start up as in a fright, in consequence of which many 
 of them are found with broken legs in the morning. 
 One man lately lost three hundred sheep in this way. 
 
 "When a family kill a sheep, they can only obtain a 
 share of it, as the neighbours who all know what has 
 been done, repair to the house, and the whole is eaten 
 up before they leave it. This seems, from custom,
 
 SEPT.] NAMACQUA LAND. 421 
 
 to be a kind of law among them, which it would be 
 difficult for a family to set aside. They come at dif- 
 ferent times of the day to the door of the missionaries, 
 and when they salute them with Good morningy it is 
 tlie same as telling them they have eat nothing 
 that day. 
 
 17th. Thermometer at sun-rise, 48. At noon, 85. 
 We had a meeting with the missionaries which lasted 
 the whole day, conversing on the concerns of the 
 mission. The missionaries appeared to be worthy 
 men; and from the extreme barrenness of the soil, 
 the universal sand with which the country is covered, 
 its nakedness, together with the great heat, they have 
 to endure greater hardships than any of the other 
 brethren in South Africa. They were very anxious 
 that newspapers might be sent them from England, 
 that they might know what was transacting on the 
 great theatre of the world. They agreed that their 
 settlement should be named Pell a, as it had been a 
 refuge to them from the ravages of Africaner, as 
 ancient Pella had been to the Jewish Christians when 
 Jerusalem was invaded by the Romans. 
 
 18th. Thermometer at sun-rise, 50. At noon, 83. 
 Met with the missionaries the whole day considering 
 the affairs of the mission. 
 
 Observing two families removing their huts only to 
 about fifty yards distance, I enquired the reason, and 
 found they had been overrun with fleas, and their
 
 422 NAMACQUA LAND. [iM^. 
 
 ■ - 
 
 removing was in order to escape from them. It is 
 probable the fleas of the old huts would disperse among 
 the surrounding habitations. 
 
 Iplh. Mr. Albricht preached in the morning; after 
 which the church commemorated the death of Christ — 
 Mr. Read preached in the afternoon, and I in the 
 evening — about two hundred persons were present at 
 the different meetings. 
 
 20th. Had a meeting with all the males belongincr 
 to the settlement. The two captains, viz. Owib the 
 father, and his son Bundelzwart, with their people, 
 who fled with the missionaries from Warm Bath in 
 Great or North Namacqualand, are resolved to return. 
 Fleurmuis (or Bat) another Namacqua chief also 
 designs to return as soon as he finds a fountain 
 sufficient for his people. The Bastard Namacquaas 
 likewise appear tired of this barren place, and propose 
 moving higher up the river. The conduct of the 
 missionaries will depend upon these resolutions being 
 carried into effect — but it is desirable that Pella, or 
 Bysondermaid, be a missionary station to connect tlie 
 missions in Great Namacqualand with the colony. 
 All who wish to remove are anxious that a missionary 
 should accompany them, without which I hardly think 
 any of them will remove. 
 
 The only objection of importance to their separating 
 is, that it divides their strength, and consequently is
 
 SEPT.] NAMACQUA LAND. 423 
 
 likely to induce the plundering Africaner to attack 
 them. Thermometer at noon, 86: at 4 P.M. 91. 
 The day generally encreases in warmth till four o'clock, 
 after which it gradually becomes cooler. 
 
 The flies are very numerous and very troublesome 
 all the year. They have a strange method of obtain- 
 ing temporary relief from them. They rub milk over 
 their sheep, and placing them before the door, drive 
 out the flies, which instantly light upon the sheep 
 whose backs are Avet with milk, when they are driven to 
 a distance. 
 
 21st. The people again assembled, \\hen they agreed 
 lo establish among themselves the same laws which have 
 been adopted iri Griqualand ; they chose persons who 
 were to act as judges in conjunction with the captains, 
 and fixed upon the limits of the land which they occu- 
 py, where the laws are to be enforced. Encouraged 
 the people to begin some trade with the Corannas, 
 Great Namacquaas, Damaras, &g. 
 
 Thermometer at noon, 82. Many clouds were 
 seen this day at the bottom of the horizon towards the 
 S.W. which occurred several times before, but they 
 never approached nearer. It was near the close of 
 the rainy season at about seventy miles distance in 
 that direction, yet there was constant sun-shine at 
 Pella, without a minute of interruption, and no rain 
 was expected before December or January.
 
 424 NAMACQUA LAND. [1813. 
 
 I wrote a conciliatory letter to Africaner, to bring 
 him, if possible, to consent to live in peace with the 
 missionary settlements. I made up a present to 
 accompany the letter, which two Bushmen engaged to 
 convey to him. 
 
 The missionaries say that the Namacquaas are natu- 
 rally a timid people. For a long time after they had 
 fled across the Great River, from a dread of Africaner, 
 the least rising of dust or sand occasioned great con- 
 sternation; they were sure it was Africaner coming 
 against them. Few of them are tall, and generally 
 they are of a slender make. 
 
 The inhabitants of Pella living entirely on their 
 cattle, and having no trades and few wants, seem to 
 spend most of their time in little groups conversing 
 together ; with the exception of those who understand 
 and love the gospel, their conversation must be ex- 
 tremely frivolous. The only occurrence I observed, 
 was the departure of their cattle in the morning and 
 their return in the evening. They are a very honest 
 people, so that I was informed that stealing is a crime 
 little known among them. The water they use is a 
 little brackish and of an aperient quality. 
 
 I observed on a prickly bush a beautiful insect, 
 about half an inch long, covered with scarlet, with 
 yellow spots here and there. Though it had wings 
 it seemed not more inclined to use them than a tame
 
 SEPT.] NAMACQUA LAND. 425 
 
 duck. What chiefly drew my atteniion to it, was its 
 manner of descending the bush when disturbed; it 
 drew in its wings and its body, till it became as round 
 as a pea, and rolled from leaf to leaf till it was lost in 
 the grass. This the same creature did several times 
 when I attempted to touch it. 
 
 The missionaries meet with the people twice every 
 day for instruction, and three times on the Lord's day. 
 The number of men belonging to the settlement is 
 one hundred and seventy-four, women two hundred 
 and three, young men twenty-two, young women forty- 
 six, children one hundred and ninety-one. The church 
 consists of nineteen members, and the school contains 
 one hundred and fifty. Mrs. Ebner and Mrs. Helm 
 taught twenty-five girls needle-work. 
 
 S I
 
 CHAP. XXXIV. 
 
 ACCOUNT OF GREAT NAMACQUA COUNTRY. 
 
 JL HAD a meeting with two Great Namacqua chiefs 
 and several others, from whom 1 derived the following 
 information respecting that country. 
 
 It lies N. and S. between the Great River and 
 the Damara country, which is about twenty-five days' 
 journey in an ox waggon, or nearly five hundred 
 miles, not in real latitude but in travelling. It lies 
 chiefly along the sea coast, or Ethiopic Ocean, and does 
 not extend up, or east, from it above ten days' journey. 
 It is, in general, hilly and stony. The inhabitants have 
 a word in their language to express a supreme being, 
 viz. Suiquap, or wounded knee, but they know nothing 
 of him; nor do they know that they have souls, but 
 suppose they die as the beasts do. When there is an 
 eclipse of the sun or moon, they are much alarmed, 
 for they expect great sickness will succeed. When 
 certain stars appear in the heavens, they expect cer-
 
 SEPT.] GREAT NAMACQUA COUNTRY. 427 
 
 tain roots which they eat will then be ripe, and dig 
 for them accordingly. When they see the planet 
 Jupiter, which they call Koumkoop, they say, now is 
 the fruitful season : the name signifies lambs loose, or 
 lamb time. Three stars in a row (or Orion's belt) which 
 the Dutch call the three kings, they call Kooreekoo, or 
 wild horses. The sun they call Sooris ; and the moon, 
 Kaap. All the stars together they call Kameroo. 
 When they observe any luminous appearance re- 
 sembling the Aurora Borealis, they consider it as an 
 unlucky sign. They know no more of the world than 
 what is round about them. They dance to music 
 from flutes made of reeds, and the root of the camel- 
 thorn tree, and use drums made of skins. They manu- 
 facture wooden vessels for holding milk, and bowls, 
 assagays, rings, axes of iron, and knives : they dress 
 hides, and dig wells, &c. 
 
 They abound in horned cattle, goats and sheep; 
 taking care of which is the only work assigned to their 
 children. The women make mats of rushes for cover- 
 ing their huts, milk the cows, build the huts, and dig 
 roots for food. When they marry, the husband gives 
 cattle to the parents of the female, and also slaughters 
 some for a feast. The sports of children are, riding on 
 sheep, shooting or throwing arrows at each other, and 
 frequently conjbats with small stones. Two parties 
 often have a set fight ; they who conquer seize on the 
 cows of their opponents and drink their milk, after 
 which they return them. 
 
 3 I 2
 
 428 GREAT NAMACQUA COUNTRY. [1813. 
 
 Parents appear to have an affection for their children, 
 and seldom beat them, even when they deserve it; but 
 the children, when they grow up, often beat their pa- 
 rents. Should any of them happen to break a limb, 
 they tie splinters of wood round it, like a boot, which 
 is worn until the limb be healed. They are generally 
 kind to the sick, and rub over with fat those parts 
 where the patient feels most pain. They are afraid at 
 the approach of death, but none could inform me of 
 the cause of their fear. Some of them treat their aged 
 and infirm friends with kindness; but others, when 
 they are about to remove from one part of the country 
 to another, make a small inclosure with bushes, in 
 which they put their aged father or mother who cannot 
 walk, and leave with them some food and water, per- 
 haps a sheep, which is intended to be their last food ; 
 after which they leave them to die : some, from poverty, 
 can leave them nothing. They bury their dead in a 
 round hole. 
 
 They exercise something like witchcraft, for when a 
 person is in great pain, they frequently perform some 
 motions over the place where the pain is; sometimes 
 they let a small piece of wood drop upon it from their 
 nose, wliich they assert came out of the sick person's 
 flesh. At other times they kill an animal, and make a 
 plaster of its fat, which they lay over the place, accom- 
 panied with many motions of a particular kind. They 
 likewise frequently make an incision into the part where 
 the pain is. They are greatly afraid of the meteor which 
 is vulgarly called a falling star, for they consider it a
 
 SEPT.] GREAT NAMACQUA COUNTRY. 429 
 
 sign that sickness is coming upon their cattle, and to 
 escape it they will immediately drive them to some 
 other parts of the country. They call out to the star 
 bow many catde they have, and beg of it not to send 
 sickness. It is very rare for a Namacqua to leave his 
 own country, even on a temporary visit to another. 
 
 Their population has been reduced by the wars of 
 former times, and by broils among themselves. Their 
 wars generally originate in disputes about cattle, in 
 which consists their chief wealth, and frequently in one 
 tribe boasting of its superiority to another, which rous- 
 ing the pride and rage of the party insulted, they fly 
 to arms merely to ascertain which tribe is strongest. 
 Their object in war is to rob each other of their cattle, 
 and this gives rise to their fighting; of course, their 
 battles are always in the vicinity of their cattle kraals. 
 They take prisoners from each other, some of whom at 
 the conclusion of the war are killed, and others libe- 
 rated. Some of the Great Namacquas have travelled 
 as far as Cape-town, have wondered at what they saw 
 there, but none have ever attempted to imitate any thing 
 which they saw, for they have no ambition to differ in 
 any thing from tlie manners and customs of their fore- 
 fathers. 
 
 Their principal method of killing game is, by a 
 whole kraal or town turning out and forming them- 
 selves into a circle, surrounding the ground where 
 the game is expected, then contracting the circle till
 
 430 GREAT NAiMAQUA COUNTRY. [1813. 
 
 the game is brought within a small compass, when 
 they attack and kill them with their assagays or spears. 
 
 Old age is very common among them, and you will 
 frequently meet persons so infirm by age, that they are 
 incapable of moving. The eldest son in the family in- 
 herits all his father's property : if any other brother 
 obtains any thing, it must be by dint of fighting What 
 is a very unfeeling custom is, that the poor widow gets 
 nothing. Their only liquor, as among the Bushmen, 
 is made from honey. 
 
 When their sons are declared to be men, they erect 
 a shade, kill an animal, and tie its fat on his head and 
 round his neck, which according to custom he must 
 wear till it gradually rots and falls off. They likewise 
 cut several strokes on his breast with a sharp instru- 
 ment. They also collect all the milk belonging to the 
 kraal, with which they make a feast in honour of the 
 occasion ; after which he remains eight days under the 
 shade, when they have a dance. The entrails of the 
 ©.nimal which was killed at the commencement of the 
 ceremony, being dried and pounded into a powder, are 
 now mixed with water, with which he is rubbed all 
 over, and he is then declared to be a man in the pre- 
 sence of the whole kraal. During the ceremony he is 
 allowed only to drink cow s milk : should he taste any 
 other food, all that is past of the ceremony must be re- 
 peated. He who does not submit to this ceremony eats 
 only with women, and is despised. When a man, for 
 the first time, kills an elephant, sea-cow, or rhinoceros,
 
 SEPT.] GREAT NAiMACQUA COUNTRY. 431 
 
 particular honour is attached to him, which is ex- 
 pressed by insignia similar to those in Europe, only 
 made of different materials. They compose rings of 
 the entrails of the slain animal, which they put. on his 
 arm, and these he constantly wears. 
 
 Names of the different tribes, and their chiefs, in- 
 Great Namacqua country. 
 
 TRIBES. CHIEFS. 
 
 Kaminuquaas Karriineoss. 
 
 Karakakoois Kachap : these live on the 
 
 coast. 
 Okais, or Mountain Tribe, Kandelaar : these live on 
 
 the Karas Mountain. 
 Naumakasii Karrawap, near the Fish 
 
 River. 
 [Name of tribe unknown] . . Saugamap, near the same. 
 Kaup, a numerous tribe . . Saiimap, more to the 
 
 north. 
 Kaikaup, ditto Karramap, farther to the 
 
 north. 
 
 Koomiss, [Chief unknown.] 
 
 Kookaus Haukamna, to E. or up 
 
 from coast.
 
 CHAP. XXXV. 
 
 ACCOUNT OF DAMARA COUNTRY. 
 
 1 HE Damara country lies along the W. coast of 
 
 Africa, immediately N. of the Great Namacqua 
 countr}', about twenty-five days' jonrney beyond the 
 mouth of the Great River. The people are divided 
 into two classes, the rich and the poor. The latter live 
 in tlie vicinity of the ocean, and frequently engage as 
 servants to the Namacquaas. The riches of the other 
 consist in cattle. They work a little in iron and brass, 
 making assagays, knives, and rings. There is a copper 
 mine in Damara, from which they manufacture rings 
 for the ears, arms, and legs, with which they carry on 
 a trade with their neighbours. They also manufacture 
 iron vessels. Their houses resemble those of the Hot- 
 tentots, shaped like bakers' ovens. The poorer sort 
 cover themselves with grass and cow dung ; the richer 
 are clothed with cow skins. They are as black as the 
 natives of Mosambique on the eastern coast, and like 
 them have large lips, and their language is similar. 
 
 Five tribes compose the Damara nation, 1st. Kuiwip, 
 on the sea coast. — 2nd. N. of them is Komass.—
 
 SEPT.] DAMARA COUNTRY. 433 
 
 3rd. Houdam — 4th. Soiidainma, to the eastward — 
 5th. Koop. The poor Damaras are called Gauw, 
 and the rich Goomacha. Tiie Damaras are a nume- 
 rous people in the estimation of the Namacquaas. 
 
 Their chief amusement is dancing to music from a 
 reed. They beat also on an instrument made of 
 skin, resembling a drum. On such occasions they 
 have their oxen collected, and dance before them, as 
 the property they chiefly delight in. They instruct 
 their children how to kill lions, and to make troughs 
 of wood for their cattle to drink out of. 
 
 MaiTiage can hardly be said to exist among them. 
 They take a woman and keep her till they are tired, 
 or they fall out, or sec another they like better. Cir- 
 cumcision obtains among them. They also, like the 
 Namacquaas, are afraid at the approach of death, but 
 I could not learn the cause of their fear. They are 
 kind to their friends in war, for if any of them be 
 wounded, they carry them off the field. 
 
 On the death of a rich man, they cover his grave 
 with the horns and bones of the cattle he had killed 
 when alive, as a proof, from their number, that 
 he was rich. It is wonderful that in every country 
 riches attach more importance to the possessor than 
 real worth or excellence, which proves the universal 
 degeneracy of taste and wisdom. Riches cover a 
 multitude of imperfections. Wliile the worthy poor 
 man is forgotten in a day, tlie unworthy rich is 
 
 3 K
 
 434. DAMARA COUNTRY. [I813. 
 
 remembered long. Such distinctions are unknown be- 
 yond the grave. There character depends on genuine 
 worth. 
 
 The Damaras are often at war with the Namacquaas. 
 These wars are generally in consequence of their 
 stealing women from each other. In these their 
 endeavours are directed to the obtaining each other's 
 catde. The prisoners taken by the Damaras are 
 not put to death, hut are made either servants or 
 interpreters. 
 
 If strangers visit them peaceably, they are kindly 
 treated. They have gardens surrounded by hedges, in 
 which they raise calabashes, pumpkins, &c. The men 
 wear no clothing except a small apron before, and the 
 women a piece of skin wrapped around their middle. 
 The country has few hills, few trees, hardly any bushes, 
 but much grass, though the soil is chiefly sandy. I 
 could only hear of two rivers, the Noeyop and the 
 Nossop.
 
 CHAP. XXXVI. 
 
 NATIONS BEYOND DAMARA. 
 
 \JF these very little is known by the Namacquaas» 
 There is a nation on the sea coast called Kabbe, who 
 are black, and their hair, like that of the Hottentots, 
 grows in litde woolly tufts. From these people the 
 Dutch, in the days of the slave trade, frequently 
 brought slaves. They manufacture several articles 
 from iron which they sell to the Damaras. There is 
 also a nation called Naviss, which is reported to be a 
 numerous and powerful people. They live more 
 to the eastward, or higher in the interior than the 
 Kabbe. 
 
 The little information which I could obtain con- 
 cerning the nations beyond the Great River on the 
 western shores of Africa, convinced tne that it would 
 be highly gratifying to the Society, and likewise to the 
 public at large, to cause these countries to be explored, 
 because it is probable a most extensive field would 
 thereby be laid open for the exertion of christian 
 
 3 k 2
 
 436 BUSHMEN. [I8l3. 
 
 benevolence. My fellow-traveller Mr. Read, and the 
 brethren at Pella, entertained the same sentiments. 
 Accordingly it was proposed to Mr. Schmelen, an 
 active zealous missionary, that when the rainy season 
 commenced, which usually is in. January, he should 
 first explore the mouth of the Great River, to see if 
 there be any spot suited for a missionary station, and if 
 there be any safe harbour or anchorage for ships, by 
 which goods from Cape-town might be brought by 
 whaling vessels to the missionary settlements on the 
 Great River, which would be a great saving of expense 
 to the Society, and of toil and peril to the missionaries. 
 It was proposed that he should then travel along the 
 shores of Great Namacqua land, searching for inlets, 
 harbours, rivers, fountains, and land capable of im- 
 provement — that he should ascertain the number of 
 inhabitants, their manners and customs, whether willing 
 to receive instruction among them, and various other 
 circumstances which were stated to him — then, if he 
 found it practicable, that he should proceed along 
 the Damara coast, making the same enquiries, 
 without attempting to proceed farther in a northerly 
 direction, but that he should obtain all possible 
 information concerning the nations beyond the Da- 
 maras.* 
 
 * Intelligence has just been received of Mr. Schmelen's return 
 after a journey of five months in these countries, some account of 
 which will be inserted in the Appendix.
 
 SEPT.] BUSHMEN. 437 
 
 BUSHMEN. 
 
 It is difficult to ascertain, with any precision, what 
 may be called the Bushmen country ; the people live 
 in so scattered a manner, and so frequently take up a 
 temporary residence in various parts of South Africa. 
 The greatest number of them seem to reside upon the 
 four rivers which may be termed the four sources of 
 the Great Hiver, viz. the Malalareen, Yellow, Alexan- 
 der, and Cradock rivers, which lie towards the eastern 
 coast of Africa. Caffi'aria, and the countries of the 
 Tainbookies and Mambookies are between them and 
 the Indian Ocean. Some of them wander about the 
 sides of the Great River from the junction of the four 
 rivers which compose it down to the very mouth. The 
 tribe of Bushmen who live towards the mouth of the 
 Great River are called Navii Ikaa. The name Bush- 
 men perhaps originated from two causes: 1st. From 
 their country, which lies between the Great River on 
 the north, and Sneuberg, &c. in the colony on the south, 
 and is bounded by Caffraria on the east, being almost 
 destitute of trees, but much of it being covered with 
 bushes : 2nd. From their method of assault, as they 
 never attack man or beast openly but from behind 
 bushes. 
 
 I understand that some of them have a confused 
 idea of a Great Being, and actions which they con- 
 sider it impossible for man to effect they ascribe to 
 that Being, but they have no knowledge that they are 
 possessed of souls, any more than beasts; of course
 
 438 BUSHMEN. [{8tS, 
 
 they have no knowledge of a future state of existence. 
 The inhabitants of the middle regions of Africa, such 
 as those nations on the coast of Guinea, and in the 
 interior from it, have some confused idea of an existence 
 after death, for many of them who have been dragged 
 from their ilative climes to slavery in our West India 
 islands, have derived comfort in their doleful condition, 
 from the forlorn hope, that when they die, they shall 
 return to their own country ; but this superior know- 
 ledge may arise from two causes, their being much 
 nearer to Judea the fountain of all sound knowledge of 
 God; and hkewise to Arabia, the original seat of 
 Mahometanism ; and especially from Mahometan 
 Moors frequently traversing these regions. But those 
 parts of South Africa which are inhabited by Hotten- 
 tots, CafFres, Bushmen, Corannas, Bootchuanas, Na- 
 maquaas, and Damaras, have been far more distant 
 from these sources of information, and perhaps in 
 some parts so separated by trackless and waterless 
 deserts, that few persons possessing any valuable 
 information have been able to cross them; conse- 
 quently it is not wonderful to find these nations who 
 live at the southermost parts of the earth, which were 
 inaccessible before the days of extended navigation, so 
 ignorant of revealed truth. But the God of heaven, 
 who is rich in mercy, has in these last days led men to 
 find out methods for circumnavigating the globe, and 
 carrying his treasures of truth into every land. 
 
 The Bushmen are said to be kind to their own 
 offspring, though there are frequent instances of women
 
 ^EPT.] BUSHMEN. 439 
 
 who have had children murdering them, if the father 
 refused to provide for them. 
 
 The chief amusements of their children are shooting 
 arrows at insects and beasts, and throwing assagays. 
 Their only employment is to fetch water for the family. 
 The parents only teach their children how to act in 
 war, and counsel them to be faithful to each other. 
 They very seldom chastise their children, but when 
 they do, even the least of them will resist by throwing 
 stones at their parents. 
 
 They make nothing but bows, arrows, and pots of 
 clay. They generally carry their water in ostrich egg 
 shells, and the shell of the land tortoise ; they likewise 
 use the latter as a dish, out of which they eat. 
 
 They use no form in their marriages. A young 
 man courts the object of his affection — teazes her in 
 the nidit time to take him to be her husband, and 
 will sometimes pull her out of the hut while asleep, 
 and teaze her till he obtains her consent. He need 
 not ask the consent of her parents, or even tell them, 
 but on marriage he makes a feast for them, when he 
 gives them a present of a bow and arrows, or an 
 assagay, or a skin sack. 
 
 The prevailing diseases among them are fevers and 
 consumptions. Tiiey use no medicines except a certain 
 root. They have also what they term a snoring over 
 the sick, when they pretend to take animals from them.
 
 440 BUSHMEN. [1813. 
 
 When any of them has a broken limb, they sow a 
 piece of skin tight round it. They are considerably 
 affected when any person is likely to die, and make 
 lamentations over them, and continue doing so for 
 several days. Friends attend their funeral, and when 
 buried, they stick the person's bow and staff into the 
 grave, and surround it with a hedge. Sometimes 
 when a person is sick, they will send for one who i* 
 reputed a witch or wizard, who dances round them, 
 and exercises some pretended influence. They believe 
 that such a person has power to inflict death ; indeed 
 they think that but for them no person would die. 
 
 They sometimes quarrel among themselves, and 
 fight with their poisoned arrows, but generally these 
 quarrels are soon over, when they become good friends 
 again. The manner in which any discover superiority 
 of talent is by speaking more fluently, making better 
 bov^s and arrows, and being more expert in shooting 
 game. They have frequent wars with their neighbours, 
 as well as among themselves. Their wars with their 
 neighbours arise from their stealing cattle from them ; 
 and those among themselves are about their ground, 
 for each has a range which he calls his own, so that if 
 others pick roots used for food from it, or gather honey 
 on it, they are considered as aggressors. 
 
 Their number cannot be great — not more than a 
 few thousands. Some of them begin to keep cattle, 
 which they never did before. When the ground is so 
 dry that none of their instruments can penetrate it, so
 
 SEPT.] BUSHMEN. 411 
 
 as to dig up roots, they suffer exceedingly. Their huts 
 are the smallest of any of the nations I visited, and 
 many of them have not even that accommodation, but 
 sleep in dens and caves on the mountains. Their 
 country being next to the Colony of Good Hope, 
 some of them have seen the habitations and other con- 
 veniences of civilized men, and likewise those of the 
 missionary stations, but they do not consider their 
 condition as worse than the condition of the civilized. 
 When people are kind to them, and gain their friend- 
 ship, they may be confided in, but if they are oifended, 
 they will try to murder in revenge for the offence. 
 
 They have no other animals than dogs, and they use 
 them well. They often obtain game by means of their 
 bow and arrows, and also by making deep holes in the 
 earth, into which the game falls, and sometimes by 
 poisoning the waters to which the animals come to drink. 
 They are all fond of tobacco. Many of them live to 
 a considerable age. They make no provision for those 
 whom they are to leave behind when they die. 
 
 The Bushmen near the mouth of the Great River, 
 on the birth of their children, rub them all over with 
 sand, and when a week old, burn off all the hair that 
 may be on their heads with withered grass, because 
 they think the first hair is not good. Whether the cus- 
 tom be universal among that people I could not learn. 
 
 The Bushmen and Namacquaas affirm, that persons 
 undergoing a certain process cannot be poisoned. 
 
 3 L
 
 442 
 
 BUSHMEN. 
 
 [1813. 
 
 They allow scorpions and two kinds of serpents to 
 sting them in many different parts of the body, after 
 which they swallow some of their poison, which they 
 think counteracts the effect of the sting. Tliey 
 affirm that if a person who has undergone this 
 preparation, is walking, and meets a serpent, if he takes 
 the jackal's tail which he carries, and rubs off the sweat 
 from under his arms and throws it before the serpent, 
 ^le will stop and allow himself to be taken. 
 
 SOME NAMACQUA WORDS. 
 
 Nunup 
 
 heaven 
 
 Murry 
 
 eijea 
 
 Sores 
 
 sun 
 
 Komnias 
 
 cow 
 
 Kahoo 
 
 moon 
 
 Konnnadi 
 
 cows 
 
 Dadsi 
 
 \ eternal and 
 
 Diaui 
 
 calf 
 
 [ eternity 
 
 Diaiou 
 
 calves 
 
 Koin ■< 
 
 < 
 
 J" marij or hu- 
 l man being. 
 
 Brii 
 Briki 
 
 buck or goat 
 bucks 
 
 Aub < 
 ( 
 
 \ man, or hus- 
 [ band 
 
 Comab 
 Comacu 
 
 ox 
 oxen 
 
 Darras 
 
 zooman 
 
 Haap 
 
 horse 
 
 Ummi 
 
 house 
 
 Haaru 
 
 horses 
 
 A ■ < 
 
 r the door of 
 
 Urib 
 
 louse 
 
 Ams ummi < 
 
 ( 
 
 \. the home 
 
 Urica 
 
 lice 
 
 De coocho nub 
 
 the rich man 
 
 Eidab 
 
 jiea 
 
 De cuo aub 
 
 the poor man 
 
 Eidagu 
 
 Jieas 
 
 Be euha aub 
 
 the bad man 
 
 Eama 
 
 water 
 
 Madikah 
 
 howdoyoudo 
 
 Ooip 
 
 river- 
 
 Moosh 
 
 eye 
 
 Annaga 
 
 hens
 
 CHAP. XXXVII. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM PELLA— CROSSING A DESERT— ARRI- 
 VAL AT WATER— REACH SILVER FOUNTAIN— CONDUCT 
 OF SCORPIONS— CURE OF STING -DEATH OF MRS. SASS. 
 
 Sept. 23rd. 
 
 vJUR business being settled at Pella, and having 
 obtained all the information we could respecting the 
 countries beyond them, we prepared for our departure 
 across the desert. It vvas long before the oxen Vv'ere 
 yoked, as some of them, being young, were unwilling 
 to commence a life of servitude; one in particular 
 made a strong resistance to the yoke. They were 
 obliged to hold him, lying on his side on the ground, 
 before he would allow the yoke to touch his neck. At 
 length all being ready, we went into the meeting, and 
 joined in prayer with the people, that we might have a 
 prosperous journey by the will of God, after which we 
 bade them farewell, and departed about four P.M. 
 accompanied by Mr. Albrecht and Mr. and Mrs. Helm, 
 and continued travelling until half past nine, when we 
 halted without coming to water, owing to the bushes 
 becoming long and the ground uneven. The night felt 
 very cold after the powerful heat of Pella. 
 3 l2
 
 444 NAMACQUA LAND. [1813. 
 
 23rd. The ground was covered with white frost in 
 the morning. Thermometer at sun-rise, 40. On 
 looking round I observed that though the ground 
 around was level, it lay as high as the tops of the 
 highest mountains on the side of the Great River to 
 the north, so that we had certainly been ascending the 
 whole journey of the past day. We departed at seven 
 A.M. and reached Rosine Fountain (Raison) at half 
 past nine. Travelling S.W. by W. Thermometer at 
 noon, 78. 
 
 There is a species of serpent which, on seeing man 
 or beast approaching, endeavours to get to the wind- 
 ward, when it spits its poison that it may be blown into 
 the eyes of the enemy. If the least particle gets into 
 the eyes, the person will be blind for some days. This 
 is the means of defence with which providence has 
 furnished it. The missionaries remark that in Namac- 
 qua land, where there is good ground there is no water, 
 and where there is water there is no good ground. 
 
 Departed at four P.M. after the oxen had taken 
 their last draught, till they should have accomplished 
 a three days journey, over a desert of sand. We were 
 favoured by a cool afternoon. As we passed along 
 I observed an insect that emitted a sound resembling 
 the Scotch bagpipe. 
 
 24th. At two o'clock in the mornincr we had to 
 encounter a sand hill which was a formidable obstruc- 
 tion to our progress, and greatly fatigued our o\e\\.
 
 SEPT.] JiAMACQUA LAND. 445 
 
 In ascending it, the wheels nearlv sunk to the axle. 
 Every one aided them with all his might. Thermometer 
 at sun-rise 46. Halted at seven, A.M. after continuing 
 fifteen hours in motion, without water. Wherever the 
 eye turned there was nothing but the perfection of 
 sterility: the hills appeared a brown burnt colour, 
 and the plain was deep sand, strewed with tufts of 
 withered grass. The consideration of being so far 
 from any cooling stream or fountain of water, no 
 doubt added to the gloominess of that desert, to 
 which there was no visible termination. Adam Kok, 
 a captain of the Griquaas once nearly lost his life 
 in crossing the same desert. Two horses which he 
 rode died, and he would have died likewise, had not 
 some who accompanied him persevered hi throwing 
 cold sand on his breast till he reached water. 
 
 While I was sitting in a retired corner under a rock, 
 a little pretty solitary bird hopped around me, within 
 a yard's distance, unconscious of danger from the 
 human species. I did nothing to injure our character 
 in its estimation. Mankind must be a rare sight to 
 an inhabitant of such a desert. It seemed to come as 
 if on purpose to divert my attention from the dreary 
 scene before me ; if so, it effected its purpose, for the 
 sight of it led to a train of thought very different. 
 
 Departed from the range of rocks where we had 
 halted to rest ourselves and oxen, at noon, when the 
 thermometer was 76. We had been travelling in deep 
 sand all day. The lowing of the oxen and the howling of
 
 446* NAMACQUA LAND. [1813. 
 
 the dogs for water, were painful to hear, and it was more 
 painful to reflect how much more fatigued and thirsty 
 they must be before any relief could be obtained. 
 The Hottentots in such a case say, " Shut your eyes 
 and ears, and press forward till you get out of such a 
 country as this :" that is, do not from pity to the 
 oxen halt, for that would only increase their misery, 
 by detaining them longer from water. The sand with 
 which the country is covered is red. 
 
 At nine, P.M. we passed some Bushmen who were 
 sitting round a fire at the foot of a hill. A Namacqua, 
 whom Mr. Albrecht had sent forward with his horse 
 and oxen, he found loitering with the Bushmen instead 
 of hastening forward to water, to save the life of his 
 horse, which could not endure thirst so long as an ox 
 This lazy man said that he could not go farther till 
 he had liad a sleep ; so we left him, but drove on the 
 oxen and horse. At midnight the cold was piercing 
 and the sand deep, especially while travelling over 
 heights. Travelled S.W. by W. 
 
 25th. A little before sun-rise our loose oxen in- 
 stantly set off at full speed towards a corner among 
 hills. They had smelled water, but though there cer- 
 tainly was water in the corner to which they had 
 hastened, yet there was none above ground, and they 
 felt disappointed. They stood snuffing in the air in 
 every direction for the space of a minute, after which 
 they again set off full speed in another direction, and 
 were not disappointed, for they came to what is called
 
 SEPT.] NAMACQUA LAND. 447 
 
 Quick fountain, which consists of two pools of water. 
 They all rushed into the pools, and the sheep and 
 dogs, who reached the water nearly at the same lime, 
 pushed under the bellies of the oxen, and all drank 
 together, at least as many as the pools could hold : 
 Such as could not gain admission ran with violence 
 against those who were standing in the water, by which 
 they obtained as much room as permitted their mouths 
 to reach it. Several went away twice, as if satisfied, 
 but soon returned to drink more. It was extremely 
 difficult to detain the oxen that were yoked in the 
 waggons till their yokes were taken off. As they got 
 free, every one ran towards the water, without waiting 
 for his fellow. None of them had tasted water for 
 thirty-eight hours, perhaps some of them for several 
 hours longer, and had dragged waggons through deep 
 sand for about ninety miles. It was remarkable, that 
 not one ox perished in the desert, for which we met to 
 give thanks to Him to whom it was due. Quick 
 Fountain proceeds from the bottom of a mountain 
 composed of one solid rock. Travelled S.W. by W. 
 
 We intended to have left Quick Fountain, in con- 
 sequence of the great scarcity of grass, at noon ; but 
 the oxen had strayed in search of grass, and could not 
 be found : Bushmen being in the neighbourhood, we 
 were anxious respecting their safety. I was amused 
 by seeing the Hottentots shoeing an ox, tijat walked 
 lame in consequence of his hoofs being injured by the 
 sharp stones. He lay, with his legs tied together, on the 
 ground, while they fastened shoes of skin over the hoofs.
 
 448 NAMACQUA LAND. [1813. 
 
 26tli. I was glad to hear, immediately on awaking 
 in the morning, that during the night the oxen had 
 been found; but they said we must leave Quick 
 Fountain directly, as the oxen could get nothing to 
 eat. We accordingly got all in readiness by eight, 
 A. M. and departed. Thermometer at sun-rise 44 : 
 noon 62. Our approach to the Ocean was both felt 
 and seen ; felt by the coolness, and seen by the heavens 
 being covered with clouds, a sight vve had not beheld 
 for several months. We travelled westward amoiig 
 low hills till we came to grass, at three, P.M. where 
 we halted, and attended to worship while our oxen 
 were feeding. 
 
 On the driven oxen coming up, we found they had 
 been obliged to leave one ox behind, bein^ unable to 
 walk farther. On numbering all our cattle, we found 
 two others were missing, when we dispatched three 
 Hottentots, and a Buslmian who had accompanied us 
 from Griqua town, in quest of them : the former taking 
 their guns, and the latter his bow and arrows, and 
 some provisions for their support. 
 
 There being no water, we were obliged to depart 
 at six, P.M. and push forward on our journey to the 
 A\estward, among low rocky hills, till half past ten at 
 night, when we arrived at Silver Fountain, the resi- 
 dence of old Cornelius Kok, and our missionary 
 friends Mr. and INlrs. Sass, who received us with much 
 pleasure.
 
 SEPT.] NAMACQUA LAND. 449 
 
 27th. The morning light discovered to us where we 
 were. It was a valley of several miles in circum- 
 ference, surrounded by barren rocky mountains, having 
 three or four openings between them for getting out of 
 the valley in different directions. The grass being 
 €Jaten up in the valley, and its roots invisible, nothing 
 but hard earth appeared, which gave to the whole 
 scene a most naked, gloomy appearance ; but on the 
 return of the rains, when the grass springs up, the ap- 
 pearance must be greatly improved. All live in huts 
 covered with mats of rushes, the same as the ordinary 
 Hottentot houses, only those belonging to Cornelius 
 Kok and I\Ir. Sass are much larger, so that a person 
 can walk about in them. 
 
 In the afternoon I visited, with Mr. Albrecht, the 
 grave of his deceased wife, formerly Miss Bergman, 
 who, after a fatiguing journey of several months from 
 Capetown, in which they lost about forty oxen, died 
 on the eighth day after her arrival at Silver Fountain. 
 Her disappointment on experiencing hardships she 
 never expected, no doubt contributed to hasten her 
 dissolution. She had been in that land some time 
 before, viz. at Warm Bath, beyond the Great River, 
 and fled with the others from the plundering Africaner. 
 The women, for some time before their flight, sat up 
 whole nights together, apprehending an attack every 
 moment. From what she mentioned to ]Mrs. Sass, 
 she had expected no such extreme trials, which is not 
 surprising. She had a fine understanding, well culti- 
 vated, but of a feeble constitution, ill suited to bear 
 
 3 M
 
 450 NAMACQUA tAND. [tsiS. 
 
 the deprivations to which a missionary is sometimes 
 subjected. However, I have no doubt but the exchange 
 of worlds was most liappy for her. 
 
 Mrs. Sass, a most lively^ well informed Christian, 
 was ill of the tooth-ache on our arrival, but during the 
 night she got better. She appeared remarkably suited 
 to be a missionary s wife. Mr. Sass is evidently a man 
 of ingenuity. He had made a black hat for himself 
 of skin, that without exact inspection would have been 
 taken for English manufacture. His black skin trowsers 
 bad also much the appearance of cloth : his shoes, like- 
 wise made by himself, were the best imitatioii of 
 English shoes I had seen in Africa: his tin boxes 
 were a tolerably good imitation. They appeared to 
 live very happy together in the middle of a barren 
 wilderness. Thermometer at noon 7^. 
 
 They were only at Silver Fountain as a temporary 
 situation, till their ultimate destination should be re- 
 solved on. They had an opportunity of teaching a 
 few young people to read^ and to inform them of the 
 things of God, likewise of instructing the parents 
 morning and evening; but many of the people were 
 gone, and old Kok had it in contemplation to retire to 
 Griqua town, to end his days with his sons and otljer 
 relations who live there. It was therefore, after much 
 deliberation, resolved that Mr. and Airs. Sass, toge- 
 ther with Mr. and Mrs. Helm, who were present with 
 «s from Peila, should go to the kraal of Orlams on the 
 Great River; to which proposal the parties agreed, and
 
 SEPT.] NAMACQUA LAND. 431 
 
 seemed all pleased by the prospect of reaching a greater 
 and probably more permanent sphere of usefulness. 
 
 28th. Mrs, Sass remarked to me in the morning, 
 that though preservation of children in London, who 
 are exposed to so many carts and carriages, is con- 
 <&idered a remarkable providence, yet that here, divine 
 providence is still more remarkable, for almost every 
 fly, and every insect that crawls upon the ground, is 
 furnished with poison, and they are often creeping 
 about children while rolling on the ground, yet they 
 are very seldom stung by them. " For example," said 
 she, " the scorpion is perhaps the most venomous of 
 all creatures, yet lately, in the course of one month we 
 found twelve scorpions in our house, under stones 
 which supported our chests ; and once we found a 
 centipede (or creature with a hundred feet) in our bed, 
 which is very venomous." 
 
 In order to exhibit something of the scorpion, they 
 dug a hole, into which they put four of them. They 
 soon began to fight till they killed one another. Their 
 mode of fighting was curious. Having two claws like a 
 crab's, with these they attempted to seize each other by 
 the head. When one happened to be thus caught, he 
 seemed sensible of his danger from his opponent and 
 cried out ; but the other, regardless of his cries, turned 
 round his tail and gave him one sting : the one that 
 was stung, as if aware of its mortality, resisted no 
 more, but lay down till he died ; the other, as if aware 
 
 3 M 2
 
 452 NAMACQUA LAND. [1813. 
 
 of the same thing, gave himself no further trouble. 
 They all had the same method of fighting, and all the 
 vanquished acted in the same manner; after which 
 the surviving conqueror was also put to death by Mr. 
 Sass, as a creature dangerous to be allowed to live. 
 
 The remedy which the natives apply when stung by 
 such creatures, is putting a living frog to the wound, 
 into which creature it is supposed the poison is trans- 
 ferred from the wound, and it dies ; then they apply 
 another which dies also : the third perhaps only be- 
 comes sickly, and the fourth no way aftected. When 
 this is observed, the poison is considered to be ex- 
 tracted, and the patient cured. Another method is to 
 apply a kidney, scarlet, or other bean, which swells; 
 then they apply another and another, till the bean 
 ceases to be affected, when they consider the poison 
 extracted. Thermometer at noon S6. 
 
 The rainy season at Silver Fountain was nearly 
 over, but the rain had been so scanty, that not a blade 
 of grass had appeared ; of course their prospect was 
 gloomy. Though I had preached the night before, 
 Mrs. Sass requested that, as she had not heard an 
 English sermon for a long time, I would preach again 
 in the evening, when she would be able to attend. I 
 did so, from Matt. xxiv. 14. but litde did she or I 
 imagine that the last sermon she was to hear on earth 
 was to be preached at her own request. During the 
 remainder of the evening she conversed cheerfully, and 
 manifested no ordinary degree of good sense.
 
 SEPT.] NAMACQUA LAND. 453 
 
 29th. About two o'clock in the morning Mrs. Sass 
 was taken very ill, and it was not many hours before 
 she was convinced that death was approaching, and 
 calmly gave directions concerning all her affairs. 
 Being asked by Mr. Read if her hopes were bright, 
 she answered she could not say that they were 
 bright, for she was enduring great pain, but she could 
 say they were stedfastly fixed on that great truth, 
 " that Jesus Christ came into the world to save 
 sinners." About five, P.M. she expressed a desire 
 to see me, when I stated to her some of the leading 
 truths of the word of God. After this she desired 
 to see ]\Ir. Read, to tell him what he should improve 
 her death from, to the people. On his coming, she 
 desired it might be done from Eph. ii. 8. "By 
 grace are ye saved, through faith, and that not of 
 yourselves, it is the gift of God," While we were all 
 standing round her, without any struggle she gently 
 breathed her last. She indeed seemed to be fallen 
 asleep. By her death, her husband lost an affectionate, 
 excellent wife, and the Society a valuable missionary. 
 Mysterious are the ways of God ! ]\lrs. Albrecht 
 and she, of whom great expectations were formed, 
 both died on the same spot in the wilderness, the one 
 soon after the other, and before either had reached a 
 settled missionary station ! It is also remarkable, 
 that we should have come just in time to witness her 
 exit to the upper world. Our presence was also 
 helpful to her afiiicted husband, who otherwise would 
 have been left alone among a few ignorant Hottentots,
 
 454 NAMACQUA LAND. [isiS. 
 
 The loudest thunder I ever heard was about noon. 
 One peal had five or six reports or explosions, louder 
 than a thousand cannon going off at the same time, 
 which appeared at only a few yards distance. I felt 
 a headache immediately after, which continued the 
 whole afternoon. I walked out and witnessed with 
 pleasing wonder the forked lightning darting among 
 the neighbouring hills. There was a heavy gale of 
 wind before the thunder, but it ceased with it. We 
 had intended to have left Silver Fountain during the 
 day, but we could not leave Mr. Sass in his painful 
 circumstances. 
 
 30th. We resolved to put off our departure till the 
 morrow, for the comfort of our bereaved brother Sass, 
 and to assist in carrying her remains to the house ap- 
 pointed for all living. Preached in the evening in re- 
 ference to Mrs. Sass's death, from 1 Thess. iv. 1 3. &c. 
 Thermometer at noon 72. 
 
 October 1. At seven in the mornins we followed 
 the remains of IMrs. Sass to the grave, where Mr. 
 Albrecht gave an address from John xi. 11. "Our 
 friend Lazarus sleepeth." ]VIr. Reed afterwards preach- 
 ed in the meeting place from the text she had selected 
 for the occasion.
 
 CHAP. XXXVIII. 
 
 LEAVE SILVER FOUNTAIN- MEET A BOOR— KNEW NO- 
 THING OF THE STATE OF EUROPE— REACH FIRST 
 HOUSE IN COLONY— COME IN SIGHT OF ETHIOPIC 
 OCEAN— MOSAMBIQUE SLAVE— GREAT HEAT— BAD 
 WATER. 
 
 jHLT one, P.M. we proceeded on our journey, drawn 
 by oxen belonging to Cornelius Kok, which were to 
 assist us for two or three days. Thermonieter at noon 
 84. As I walked along I almost trod upon a serpent ; 
 it hissed with all its might. We were told, that in 
 Namacqu aland it frequently happens, after rain, that 
 so many serpents come out of their holes, that it is 
 very difficult to walk without treading on them. We 
 halted about ten, P.M. among hills, and without 
 water. The way was circuitous, in consequence of 
 the hills, but always inclined to the S.W, 
 
 2nd. The rising sun discovered that we were sur- 
 rounded with beauty : the bushes were all in flower of 
 various colours ; but the prevailing colours were yel- 
 low, white, and pink, of various hues. We had ob- 
 served no dew for a long time till now ; tiie bushes 
 were sprinkled with it. We moved at six in the morn-
 
 456 NAMACQUA LAND. [1813. 
 
 ing, and halted at Majis Fountain about half after 
 seven : the road was hilly. A boor and his wife 
 halted with their waggon, the first person belonging 
 to the colony we had seen for near five months. 
 We inquired if he knew any thing of the state of 
 Europe, or of the war, or about Cape-town ; but 
 he knew nothing about any of them. He said the 
 Field Cornet had lately got some papers and letters 
 sent him by the Landdrost, which he thought might be 
 for us. We sent off a messenger directly to inquire, 
 though it was near twenty miles distant. The boor 
 gave us some flower and bitter oranges, and some 
 milk, which were very acceptable. Their infant child 
 had a hare lip, which we recommended to them to get 
 closed by a doctor ; to which the mother objected by 
 saying, that as God had appointed it, she would not 
 alter it. Upon the same principle I thought if she 
 should happen to have her leg broken, she ought by 
 no means to have it set, but should allow it to dangle 
 at the end of her stump during the remainder of her 
 life. He had set out on a journey to Capetown to 
 obtain grain ; but having, about half way, obtained a 
 sack of wheat for an ox, he and his family returned. 
 They attended our worship, after which we presented 
 them with some tracts in the Dutch language. They 
 lived at a little distance, to which they set off about 
 noon, so that they would come upon their slaves at a 
 very unexpected season. Thermometer at noon 79' 
 
 At four, P.M. we proceeded on our journey over a 
 hilly road. About five we killed a large puft' adder
 
 OCT.] NAMACQUA LAND. 457 
 
 about five feet long, and in the middle nearly the 
 thickness of a man s leg. At seven in the evening we 
 came to the first boor's house in the colony. His 
 name is Lear ; he has had ten daughters, who are all 
 married. The parents were not above forty years of 
 age. Their servants are Hottentots and have the 
 appearance of extreme wretchedness, being covered 
 with tattered skins worn by the sheep of former times, 
 and their bodies so filthy that they seem not to have 
 been washed since they were born. The lady sits 
 with a long stick in her hand, commanding in the 
 tone of a general, and her orders are instantaneously 
 obeyed. 
 
 The chief articles visible in the house were skins. 
 There was a low table, and three things which had 
 once been chairs. In the corner there was a space 
 enclosed by a mud wall, about eighteen inches high, 
 with some skins spread on the floor of it, which pro* 
 bably was the family bed. Their son, a tall young 
 man of eighteen years of age was lying on his back 
 in it, gazing at the strangers. His name was Daniel, 
 and the place where he lay resembled a den. They 
 were very kind to us, furnishing us with plenty of milk, 
 some butter, and a small loaf, which were valuable 
 articles to people in our circumstances. 
 
 3rd. Mr. A, preached in the morning. Thermo- 
 meter at noon, 80: at three P.M. 94, at which time 
 we left Lear's place in hopes of reaching his mother's 
 and preaching there. At six P.M. we came to a 
 
 S N
 
 458 NAMACQUA LAND. [1813. 
 
 Hottentot kraal, where we would have halted for the 
 night, but their fountain was dried up, so that they 
 had no water for man or beast, and were to remove 
 from it on the morrow. From their own account they 
 had once a better place, but a boor having asked per- 
 mission first to sow a little corn, then to erect a mill, 
 they allowed it ; after which he applied to government 
 for a grant of the whole place, which they promised, 
 not knowing that it was in the possession of these Hot- 
 tentots ; of course they were driven from it. 
 
 An old Hottentot told us that he remembered the 
 time when the boors were all within five days journey 
 of Cape-town, and the country was full of Hottentot 
 kraals ; but they have been gradually driven up the 
 country to make room for the white people. 
 
 At sun-set we had our first sight of the Western or 
 Ethiopic Ocean, it being nearly half a year since we lost 
 sight of the Eastern or Indian Ocean on the other side 
 of the continent, which very probably is the first time 
 that the continent of Africa has been crossed so high 
 up in the interior. Our journey across the continent 
 being terminated, our way now inclined to the S.E. 
 instead of the W. 
 
 At eight o'clock we arrived at Mrs. Vandervest- 
 huis's * Place, and were kindly received by the old 
 
 Which signifies, from the west houses.
 
 OCT.] NAMACQUA LAND. 459 
 
 lady. Mr. Read preached to her numerous family of 
 slaves and Hottentots. 
 
 4th. Mrs. Vandervesthuis's slaves, &c. croud the 
 house. She said, in their presence, that when any of 
 them behaves ill, she gives them forty stripes save one; 
 yet I do not suppose that she treats them harshly, for 
 they seemed clieerful. She well remembered Vaillant, 
 who lived a good while at her house. She said he 
 never was above ten days absent from her house, 
 when he went farther up the country, and these he 
 spent among the Kamis jNIountains opposite, seeking 
 birds, stones, and flowers, which appeared to her 
 very idle employment. She also remarked, that the 
 M'ind sometimes blew so violent in that part of Africa, 
 as to upset their waggons. Tlie ^vater here is thick, 
 as if mixed with pipe clay. 
 
 Having mentioned to Mrs. Vandervesthuis that 
 Vaillant had published an account of his travels in 
 Africa, and had mentioned her in it, she enquired 
 very anxiously, if he had mentioned in his book that 
 she had given him a good drubbing with a sambuck* 
 when they were travelling together to the Cape, for 
 speaking improperly of her daughters ; but she added — 
 Had I been alone he would have given me a drubbing 
 too, but two of my sons were present, both stout young 
 men. She is a tall and still a strong woman, though 
 
 A kind of whip made of the skin of the sea cow. 
 3 N 2
 
 450 NAMACQUA LAND. [1813. 
 
 in her 7^th year. While speaking of Vaillant I may 
 venture to say thus much, that though his account has 
 much of the romantic in it, yet he gives the best 
 account of the manners and customs of the Hottentots 
 I have seen. 
 
 Mrs. Vandervesthuis has a very clever Mosambique 
 slave, who is a kind of manager of her concerns. He 
 was formerly a slave at Cape-town, but ran off from 
 his master, and came to her at Klipvalley, giving out 
 that he was a Damara. After he had worked some 
 time with them for wages, they observed an advertise- 
 ment in the Cape paper, describing a slave who had 
 absconded from his master. The description being 
 answerable to him, he was apprehended. He acknow- 
 ledged that he was the person, and had nothing to say 
 against his master, but complained that he had too 
 easy access to liquor, which he could not help drinking, 
 which made him drunk and good for nothing, where- 
 fore he thought it best to run away from the liquor. 
 He begged that they would buy him off from his 
 master — accordingly one of her sons went to the Cape 
 and bought him from his master for nine hundred 
 rix-dollars. Like Joseph in the house of Potiphar he 
 has charge of all the slaves and Hottentots. 
 
 Though it blew a gale of wind all the day, the ther- 
 mometer at noon was 94, and at sun-set S6. IMrs. 
 Vandervesthuis assisted us with sixteen oxen for the 
 next stage, which was both hilly and sandy. We left 
 lOipvalley at four P.M. and after a tiresome journey
 
 OCT.] NAMACQUA LAND. 4^1 
 
 over long hills of deep sand, we halted at eight P.M. 
 at Koris Fountain, where there is a boor's house in 
 ruins, and four huts for the accommodation of those 
 who attend his sheep. IMost of the country is covered 
 with bushes, many of which are of the succulent kind, 
 and all in flower, which renders the near prospects 
 extremely beautiful, but when viewed at a distance 
 they have no better effect upon the scene than the 
 wildest heath. 
 
 5th. Thermometer at sun-rise, 86. At noon in the 
 shade 101, which was rather alarming, as noon is 
 never the hottest part of the day. A breeze o^ wind 
 rendered it more tolerable than it must otherwise have 
 been. The common flies were numerous and trouble- 
 some ; the perspiration on the face attracted them, and 
 though driven away, they returned in an instant, 
 walking over the whole face, especially about the eyes. 
 They likewise rested on the inky part of my pen, so 
 that I could not see what I wrote ; to drive them away 
 was useless, it was only making way for successors. 
 The lowness of the ground which was surrounded by 
 hills increased the heat. At half past three P.M. the 
 thermometer stood at 102 when compleatly shaded 
 from the sun. My silver snufi^ box in my pocket felt 
 as if lately taken out of a fire, though 1 sat under covert 
 of the tent ; all the water was warm, and our butter 
 turned into oil. Our dogs, though covered from the 
 rays of the sun, lay breathing quick, with iheir mouths 
 open, and their tongues hanging out, as if in a high 
 fever. My ink, though mixed with water, got thick in
 
 462 NAMACQUA LAND. [I813. 
 
 a few minutes. All was silence around, all employed 
 in sheltering themselves from the sun s scorching rays, 
 the best way they could. The crows were walking 
 about our waggons as if we had all been dead. Ther- 
 mometer at five P.M. 99- At sunset, 95. None of 
 our company had ever been in this part of Africa 
 before. At five P.M. we departed, ascending and 
 descending hills until three o'clock in the morning, 
 when we halted at Foul Fountain, whose waters smell 
 very offensively. 
 
 6th. The approach of light discovered a boor's empty 
 house standing near our waggons, the boor only living 
 there during the rainy season, which he leaves when 
 the grass is eaten up. It was to us a shadow from the 
 heat during the day, yet it was very warm even there, 
 for though it had neither doors nor windows to shut, 
 the thermometer in it at noon was 96, in the covered 
 waggon 101. One of our oxen was so worn out with 
 the journey, the heat, and the bad water, that it was 
 not able to proceed, but we left him under the care 
 of two Hottentots to endeavour to get him forward. 
 
 Being on a height we were exposed to the wind, 
 which blew as hot as steam from the N.W. however, 
 had we been lower down, the heat must have been 
 greater. Our oxen looked [)Oorly, which made us 
 doubt their ability to carry us over the desert to 
 Elephants River, but whatever might happen, no 
 assistance could be obtained as the land is forsaken.
 
 OCT.] NAMACQUA LAND. 463 
 
 In consequence of the great heat we judged it pru- 
 pent to put off our departure till seven P.M. The 
 first three hours of our journey was over hills, in deep 
 sand ; most of us walked on foot the whole way. 
 Near midnight the road became a little harder, and 
 at two o'clock in the morning we came to Ink Koker 
 (or inkstand) Fountain, so called from the water resem- 
 bling ink in colour and thickness ; of course we had no 
 encouragement to stop there. We went forward till 
 half past four in the morning, when hearing a cock 
 crow we halted, believing that some house must be 
 near, and consequently water, but* being dark we saw 
 nothing. 
 
 7th. When day light arrived, we found no boors 
 place, yet there was a boor from Bokkeveld stopping 
 for a while with sheep, living in a hut. The fountain 
 is very salt, yet the oxen drank it. There was neither 
 rock, nor tree, nor large bush to afford the smallest 
 shelter from the almost intolerably scorching rays of 
 the sun, which made it a trying day. 
 
 At noon, in the coolest part of the waggon, the ther- 
 mometer stood at 97. At two P.M. 101, and at three 
 P.M. at 98, after which it gradually fell to 90. At 
 one time we had a pretty strong puff of wind, which 
 felt as if it had been mingled with fire. At six P.M. we 
 left that oven, most of us walking to spare the oxen. 
 The road lay along the side of low hills, and was 
 tolerably hard. At eight P.M. we came to a fountain 
 of salt water, mixed with filth, where we found a family
 
 4,64, NAMACQUA LAND. [l815v 
 
 of Hottentots, watching some cattle belonging to a 
 distant boor. It is probable they have the cow's milk 
 for their trouble. We halted only for a few minutes 
 and then pushed forward to Casteel Fountain, where we 
 arrived an hour before midnight. This is a small 
 pool of brackish water at the bottom of a hill which is 
 chiefly composed of white marble. There is a cave, 
 only a few yards from the pool, in which an Englishman 
 lived till lately a most solitary life. He sold some 
 articles to any traveller who might pass. He was 
 probably a deserter from some ship, and preferred the 
 life of a hermit, in a desert, to that of a sailor on board 
 of ship. 
 
 8th. During the night the heavens were covered with 
 clouds, and the wind blew, and the day partook of the 
 coolness of the night, for the thermometer at noon was 
 down to 78. l^vly bowels were greatly pained during 
 the night in consequence of the previous heat, but the 
 return of more cool air mitigated the pain. When one 
 of our people tasted the Casteel water, he pronounced 
 it good, at least far better than the last, yet the dirtiest 
 puddle that ever lay in one of London streets would 
 be a treat compared to it, indeed I thought so at that 
 time, and would have given a dollar for a tumbler 
 full of it. 
 
 Three or four days before, we left two Hottentots in 
 charge of an ox which could not proceed, and were 
 beginning to be anxious about their safety, when they 
 arrived during the night without the ox, being obliged
 
 OCT.] NAMACQUA LAND. 465 
 
 to leave it behind, as all its strength was gone. Our 
 two milch goats deserted and could not be found; 
 their loss was the more felt in consequence of the 
 badness of the water. 
 
 At five P.M. we left Casteel Fountain without any 
 regret, and at nine reached Eckland Fountain, the 
 water of which was similar to Casteel, so that feeling 
 no desire to remain there, we went forward. At eleven 
 P.M. we met two people driving oxen — a rare sight in 
 the desert. At two o'clock in the morning we halted at 
 a place called Dry Kraal, which is a small spot sur- 
 rounded by mountains, where we happily obtained 
 well-tasted water by digging in the sand. 
 
 3 o
 
 CHAP. XXXIX. 
 
 ARRIVAL AT ELEPHANT'S RIVER— AT VANZAILS PLACE- 
 DEEP SAND— CEDAR MOUNTAIN— ANECDOTE OF BEES 
 —DEEP SAND— FEMALE SLAVE. 
 
 Oct. 9th. Thermometer at sun-rise, 50 : 
 noon, 88 : at one P.M. 90. 
 
 At four we left Dry Kraal. On reaching the 
 summit of an ascent, a pleasant prospect, of consider- 
 able extent, all at once presented itself before us, 
 which was bounded to the south by stupendous moun- 
 tains. This was an animating sight, after being 
 confined upwards of a fortnight among low, uninterest- 
 ing hills. One huge wall, or range of mountains, 
 like a wall, ran from west to east for thirty or forty 
 miles ; another range ran from S.E. to W. and what 
 added to our satisfaction was a clouded sky, which 
 appeared more valuable to us than the best umbrella 
 in rain to a person clothed in the most delicate dress ; 
 still the sight of much deep sand before us cast a 
 gloom over the scene. All our comforts ai'e mixed 
 with alloy.
 
 OCT.] JOURNEY IN THE COLONY. 467 
 
 At ten P.M. an ox which had done all he could to 
 serve us for six months, could do no more, but laid 
 himself down on the road to die. We gave him a 
 little water which we had with us, on which he revived 
 and rose, then looked for something to eat, but looked 
 in vain, for there was not a blade of grass to be seen. 
 We tried all we could to get him forward, but he could 
 hardly move, of course we were obhged to leave him 
 behind and push forward to water. With great pity 
 and regret I looked back to him as long as he could 
 be seen. 
 
 At midnight, with much pleasure, we came in sight 
 of the long looked for Elephant's River, and halted on 
 its banks. Men and beasts drank plentifully of its pure 
 stream. Having walked on foot the whole journey, 
 we were glad, about two in the morning, to lie down 
 and rest our weary limbs, for an eight hours' walk in 
 deep sand requires no trifling exertion. 
 
 10th. In the morning I preached to the people from 
 the conversion of the Ethiopian eunuch to the faith of 
 Christ, and his baptism by Philip. Mr. Read baptized 
 Slinger, one of our Hottentots, in the Elephant River, 
 after he had given a satisfactory account of his faith. 
 Thermometer at noon, 78. 
 
 The Elephant River is a considerable stream, though 
 much inferior to the Great River. Its banks are beau- 
 tifully hned with the willow, thorn, and other trees, but 
 it is hardly possible to conceive a more barren appear- 
 
 3o 2
 
 468 JOURNEY IN THE COLONY. [1813. 
 
 ance than the ground immediately beyond the range of 
 those trees. It was painful to see the oxen standing 
 still most part of the day for want of something to eat, 
 while they looked like spectres for want of food. 
 
 Learning from a boor who lay at the ford a little 
 higher up, that we might obtain grass about four hours' 
 journey up the river, we moved at four P.M. crossed 
 the river without any accident, and travelled over deep 
 sand for some miles, after which the road became 
 harder, and we arrived about nine P.M. at the boor's 
 place where there was grass, and we ourselves were 
 kindly entertained by him. Having again walked the 
 whole journey, rest was sweet. 
 
 11th. At seven in the morning Mynheer Vanzails 
 invited us to coffee, and at eight o'clock to a breakfast 
 of tea and plenty of milk, and then at eleven A.M. to 
 dinner, which was three meals in four hours ; but this 
 was the usual custom of the house. His two sons, of 
 fourteen and eighteen years of age, sat at a side table, 
 though there was plenty of room at ours ; but perhaps, 
 owing to being unaccustomed to company, they could 
 eat more pleasantly alone. The boor at the head of 
 the table wore his broad brimmed hat, and described 
 with much spirit encounters with lions and tigers, 
 which are the principal events which happen in that 
 dreary corner of the earth. His wife was absent on a 
 journey to the Cape, and the other end of the table 
 was occupied by a girl clothed with little more than 
 her own skin, holding in her hand a long stick, at the
 
 OCT.] JOURNEY IN THE COLONY. 469 
 
 end of which was a fan composed of white ostrich 
 feathers, for driving away the flies from those who 
 were at table. 
 
 At six P.M. we took leave of the boor, and went 
 forward. The way lying over deep sand, we were 
 obliged to walk. A fog from the westward came over 
 the country, and so thick that at one o'clock in the 
 morning we began to doubt whether we were travel- 
 ling the right way, wherefore, lest we should go farther 
 astray, we halted for the night without reaching water. 
 
 1 2th. At eight in the morning we proceeded, and 
 before ten, came to a small pool of water, the colour 
 and thickness of milk, and full of insects, at the side of 
 which we halted. Thermometer at noon, 7^. 
 
 At four P.M. we departed, and did not reach Great 
 Fountain till nine, though only about seven miles 
 distant, for we had deep sand all the way ; so much so, 
 that though we had fourteen oxen to each waggon, they 
 had to rest every few hundred yards ; several of them, 
 worn out with fatigue, lay down, and with great 
 difficulty were raised up to try it again. The way was 
 beautifully lined with bushes in flower, five and six 
 feet high. I walked the whole stage, and like the poor 
 oxen was greatly fatigued. We happily found good 
 grass and water where we halted, but so tired were 
 our oxen, that they tasted neither till next morning, 
 but immediately when they were unyoked, lay down to 
 rest their weary limbs.
 
 470 JOURNEY IN THE COLONY. [1813. 
 
 All the cups and saucers we brought from the Cape 
 were broken; we had only half a cup left, which we 
 used at breakfast, along with a wooden bowl, a horn, 
 and a tin tumbler. 
 
 13th. Left the Great Fountain at four P.M. and 
 by great exertion, travelling through deep heavy sand, 
 the waggons reached Vanwik's Place at nine P.M. 
 As usual I walked on foot the whole stage. I was 
 much gratified, while day light continued, by viewing 
 the various forms of the Cedar Mountain, which stood 
 about fifteen miles to the S.E. The front of it was 
 seen to the extent of about thirty miles ; how much 
 farther it extended beyond what I saw, I could not 
 learn ; indeed, though Vanwick's family is large, and 
 though two other boors were with him at supper, and 
 a schoolmaster, yet there was only one person present 
 who knew the name of that remarkable mountain ; she 
 was the boor's wife's mother, an aged matron. But a 
 mountain to them appears hardly worth noticing, the 
 cattle are the objects that engross their attention. 
 
 Here we heard that the French were driven out of 
 Holland, and as a proof of its truth, it was stated, that 
 fifty Dutchmen had come in an English ship to the 
 Cape on their way to Batavia. The proof destroyed 
 the credibility of the news. We heard also of peace 
 with America, and that Buonaparte had gained so 
 great a victory over the Russians, that they were 
 obliged to burn the bodies of the dead. All which 
 news we found afterwards to be false, however it was
 
 OCT. JOURNEY IN THE COLONY. 471 
 
 news to us in the meantime, and the first we had heard 
 for eight months. Thermometer at noon, 68. 
 
 14th. At eight in the morning one of our company 
 went to John Deysel's Valley, twelve miles distant, in 
 search of letters said to be there for us. In the mean- 
 time we were invited to dinner at ten o'clock by the 
 boor, about an hour after we had breakfasted, but it 
 seems to be the fashion in that part of the country to 
 cram people like turkies in the morning. The boor 
 and his wife sat silent at the head of the table, also a 
 grown up daughter who seemed to have the tooth-ache 
 sat equally silent. The schoolmaster seemed to be 
 Mercurius, or chief speaker in that house. He was, 
 what is called, a Rotterdamer, and fought on board 
 the Dutch Admiral's ship that was opposed to Lord 
 Duncan's in the battl© of Camperdown. Thermometer 
 at noon, 70. 
 
 After taking leave of the boor and family we com- 
 menced our journey at four P.M. over deep sand. 
 More than two thirds of the stage was up hill, which 
 was extremely fatiguing to the poor oxen. On reach- 
 ing the summit of the hill, we observed a fire about two 
 miles off, which we concluded was the boor's place, to 
 which \ife were travelling, but on reaching the fire we 
 found it was made by two slaves sent by the boor to 
 shew our people where to put their loose oxen, lest 
 they should go amongst the corn. At eight P.M. such 
 of us as were walking arrived at Mynheer Vanzail's 
 Place in Jackal Valley, and the waggons arrived about
 
 472 JOURNEY IN THE COLONY. [1813. 
 
 half past nine. We supped with the family and some 
 
 stranger boors. Mr. , clerk to the deputy Land- 
 
 drost of John Drysel's Valley, was so kind as to come 
 to us here, and he brought me letters from the Cape 
 containing gratifying intelligence respecting the king- 
 dom of our Lord. Some letters to others of our com- 
 pany contained a long list of persons who had died in 
 Cape-town, since our departure. The death of Mr. 
 Oncruydt, under whose hospitable roof I had lodged 
 all the time I had been in Cape-town, affected me 
 iBuch. All the letters were silent about the affairs of 
 Europe, which greatly disappointed us all, for none 
 around us knew more of them than of the transactions 
 in the moon. ^ 
 
 15th. Thermometer at noon 84. It is considered 
 very cruel in Africa to kill bees in order to obtain their 
 honey, especially as from flowers being there at all 
 seasons, and most in winter, they can live comfortably 
 all the year round. A Hottentot who was accustomed 
 to kill the bees was often reasoned with by the hu- 
 mane to give up so cruel a practice, yet he persisted 
 in it till a circumstance occurred which determined 
 him to relinquish it. He had a water-mill for grinding 
 his com, which went very slowly, from the smallness of 
 the stream which turned it, consequently the flour 
 dropped very gently. For some time much less than 
 usual came into the sack, the cause of which he could 
 not discover. At length he found, that great part of 
 his flour, as it was ground, was carried off by bees to 
 their hives : on examining this, he found it contained
 
 OCT.] JOURNEY IN THE COLONY. 473 
 
 only his flour, and no honey. This robbery made him 
 resolve to destroy no more bees when he took their 
 honey, considering their conduct in robbing him of his 
 property as a just punishment to him for his cruelty. 
 The gentleman who related the story was a witness to 
 the bees robbing the mill. 
 
 About five, P.M. after taking leave of Mr. Vanzails 
 and family, we again commenced our journey, and im- 
 mediately began to ascend a long sand hill, clad with 
 beautiful bushes, all in flower. At six we passed a 
 boor's place, and observed the poor slaves all gazing 
 after us, but none of them approached our v^aggons. 
 We then continued ascending another sand hill for 
 two hours, the descent of which was steep ; and deep, 
 heavy sand extended for about four miles. Though I 
 walked with five or six of our Hottentots, hardly a word 
 was exchanged for two or three hours, every one being 
 intent on wading through the sand. Though the night 
 was dark, various birds amused us with their pleasing 
 short notes. At eleven we came to a boor's place, w hich 
 we hoped was the spot where we had agreed to halt. 
 All were in bed ; however, they called to us that it was 
 not Kootse's place. Some of our oxen lay down upon the 
 road, but were got up again. We reached Kootse's at 
 one o'clock in the morning, when we got to rest as soon 
 as we could. Most of our men were behind, having 
 probably mistaken the way. 
 
 l6th. Thermometer at sun-rise 50. Our men ar- 
 rived about ten, A.M. They had been at one time 
 
 3 p
 
 474 JOURNEY IN THE COLONY. [1813. 
 
 before us and sat down among the bushes till the 
 waggons should come up, but these not making their 
 appearance soon, they fell fast asleep and slept till 
 the morning light roused them. Thermometer at 
 noon 92. 
 
 Departed at six, P. INI. and went over deep sand 
 hills. Passed a boor's place at eleven, P.M. We 
 went out of the way, but regained it by pushing 
 through bushes : the oxen were so fatigued that they 
 could proceed no farther, wherefore we halted at mid- 
 night on the road. 
 
 17th. In the morning we found ourselves at the side 
 of corn fields, and three of our oxen were among the 
 corn. We had to pay haif a dollar each for what they 
 had eaten, and the same sum for each as a fine. Ther- 
 mometer at noon 90. In the evening we went forward 
 to a fountain, where we halted at midnight. 
 
 18th. Left the fountain at six in the mornins and 
 
 reached widow S 's place at eight, where we halted 
 
 for the day, tired of walking in the sand. Thermo- 
 meter at noon 92. 
 
 A poor female slave came secretly to the waggons, 
 while her mistress slept, to beg a book. She said she 
 had privately learned to read, and had a book in loan 
 w hich she must return, and fell on the ground begging 
 one. She said she sometimes was able to read a little, 
 when unnoticed, in her mistress's bible, which had
 
 OCT.] JOURNEY IN THE COLONY. 475 
 
 taught her she was a sinner, and that Jesus was a 
 Saviour. Her mistress tells her it was the worst thing 
 she ever did to learn to read. Mr. R. gave her many 
 advices. 
 
 This place is nearly surrounded by the Picket 
 Mountain, which, though very high, has vineyards 
 and fields on its summit. Thermometer at noon 92. 
 We began our journey at five, P.M. The road was 
 tolerably good, only now and then there was deep 
 sand. We saw several boors' places at the foot of 
 distant hills to the left, and two or three along the 
 foot of Picket Mountain to the right, which mountain 
 appears between twenty and thirty miles in length. 
 At midnight our oxen appeared unable to proceed 
 farther, wherefore we halted by the side of the road, 
 but could hardly find any thing with which to make a 
 fire. 
 
 19th. In the morning at five o'clock we went for- 
 ward to a boor's place, which was only about an hour 
 distant, where we received a hearty welcome. His 
 name is Gert Fisser, and the place, Reed Fountain. 
 Thermometer at noon 9^. 
 
 The country all around is in a state of nature, cover- 
 ed with barren heath, except a few boors' places or 
 farms, which appear like small specks here and there, 
 only varying the scene a very litde. At Reed Fountain 
 we could purchase a little flour, which no boor that 
 we saw for several days before could spare. Our peo- 
 
 3 p 2
 
 476 JOURNEY IN THE COLONY. [1813. 
 
 pie had been entirely living upon mutton for a long 
 time. We left three of our worn out oxen with 
 Mynheer Fisser, till they should recover strength. We 
 departed at six in the evening, and found the road 
 hard, with pools of white water at little distances. At 
 midnight we halted on the banks of the Berg River, 
 near Mrs. Marai's Place, where there is a pious 
 family. 
 
 20th. We were kindly received in the morning by 
 the worthy family. Mrs. Marai has two dumb 
 daughters, a trial which she seems to bear with much 
 christian submission. At eleven, A.M. Mr. R. preach- 
 ed in one of the outhouses; and at four, P.M. we 
 proceeded on our journey. At six, P.M. we reached 
 Mr. Botman's, who is a warm friend to missionary ex- 
 ertions, as are many other boors in that part of the 
 colony. At Mr. Botman's I slept under a roof, the 
 first time for three months.
 
 CHAP. XL. 
 
 ARRIVAL AT TULBACH— RODEZAND— ZWARTLAND— ANI^ 
 MALS KILLED ON THE JOURNEY— RETURN TO CAPE- 
 TOWN. 
 
 Oct. 21st. 
 
 At ten in the morning Mr. R. and I left our wag- 
 gons, and proceeded towards Tulbach, which was dis- 
 tant about thirty miles, in a covered cart of Mr. Bot- 
 man's, drawn by six horses, and most of our people 
 went, for a few days, to assist in reaping the harvest. 
 We hailed about half way at Mr. Edwards's, a wine 
 boor, formerly a missionary. That part of Africa 
 abounds both with corn and wine boors, who appear 
 all to be in a thriving condition. Mr. E. offered to re- 
 lieve Mr. Botman, and send us forward in his cart. At 
 five, P.M. we set off in his open cart and three horses. 
 About three miles on our way, hearing that Mr. De 
 Lange, with whom we expected to lodge at Tulbach, 
 was at his farm, which was very near, we drove to 
 it, and were received with much affection. They soon 
 put six horses to their waggon, and his family and we 
 were soon in motion on the way to his house in Kirk- 
 Street, near Tulbach. For several miles our way was
 
 478 JOURNEY IN THE COLONY. [1813. 
 
 by a narrow pass between high mountains, so narrow 
 in some parts that there was hardly room for Little 
 Mountain River to get along : of necessity therefore 
 the road, with great labour, is cut out on the sides of 
 the mountains. The sun being set, and the heavens 
 covered with thick clouds, it soon became very dark; 
 and it was unpleasant travelling on a road where one 
 wrong step of a horse might occasion the tumbling of 
 the waggon a hundred feet down the side of a steep 
 mountain. In about an hour we were met by a chain 
 of waggons, which had to pass us, where there was 
 hardly room for a boor's wife to pass; but pass they 
 must, or all must wait until the morning light. Our 
 waggon was lifted a little way up the side of the moun- 
 tain, when the three first waggons passed in safety; 
 but the two side wheels of the fourth went over the 
 edge of the road, and had they not got the oxen imme- 
 diately to stop, it must have rolled to the bottom of 
 the mountain, dragging the twelve or fourteen oxen 
 after it. With much difficulty the waggon was restored 
 to the path. The succeeding waggon having broke 
 down, we could not pass it till it was repaired. We 
 sat in the dark, I know not how long, till this waggon 
 was mended and had passed us, after which we got 
 forward out of the pass to a good road. We arrived 
 at Mr. De Lange's about ten o'clock at night, where we 
 soon forgot the difficulties we had met with on our way 
 to it. 
 
 22nd. Day light in the morning discovered that we 
 had got into one of the most pleasant and handsome
 
 OCT.] JOURNEY IN THE COLONY. 479 
 
 villages in Africa, called Rodezand, and also Kirk 
 Street, near Tulbach. It consists of a long row of hand- 
 some houses, with terraces in front, and disjoined from 
 each other by an intervening space. They look towards 
 the west, and stand on a gentle declivity. On the op- 
 posite side of the way runs a crystal stream under a 
 row of trees, from whence gardens belonging to each 
 house extend to a small river at the bottom of the de- 
 scent ; along the opposite bank of which stands a low 
 hill, covered with bushes similar to those generally seen 
 in green-houses in England. The Ministers Palace, 
 (for it deserves that name,) stands at the north end of 
 the street, as a public building, and is a great orna- 
 ment to the street. A handsome church, built in the 
 form of a cross, as all the Dutch churches in Africa 
 are, (a custom imported from Rome,) stands at the 
 south end, but the view of it from the street is inter- 
 cepted by a clump of trees. The houses being all re- 
 markably white, have a clean, lively, and cheerful ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 In the morning the circuit court, which had been at 
 Tulbach for a few days, left it to proceed to Graaf 
 Reynet. This was the third circuit the court had 
 made. It originated from various reports being circu- 
 lated for some time after the Cape was taken by the 
 English, concerning murders of the Hottentots by the 
 boors. A letter from one of our missionaries, con- 
 taining such reports, was printed in a periodical work 
 in England, which reached the Cape during the govern- 
 ment of Earl Caledon, who, anxious to ascertain the
 
 480 JOURNEY IN THE COLONY. [1813. 
 
 truth of such reports, instituted this court, fully to in- 
 vestigate the business, a scheme which I understood his 
 Lordship was previously concerting 
 
 I was favoured, at the Castle of Good Hope, with 
 the perusal of all the papers relating to that business, 
 and permitted to take what extracts I pleased; and I 
 must, injustice to Lord Caledon, say that, from these 
 documents, it appeared that every facility was given 
 to obtaining the truth of these reports. I was parti- 
 cularly pleased with the instruction given to the Circuit 
 Court, in which I perceived much wisdom, and evi- 
 dently an anxious desire that the poor Hottentots 
 might have justice done them, and enjoy protection 
 from violence and oppression. 
 
 Most of the cases which came before the court 
 could not be substantiated by legal evidence ; for ac- 
 cording to the Dutch law, the oath of a Hottentot is 
 inadmissible. However, the establishment of such a 
 court, annually to visit the interior of the colony, will 
 ^eatly ameliorate the condition of the Hottentots. 
 
 1 understood that this third circuit would have 
 scarcely any business to attend to; nor can they have 
 much, till some law be made to admit instructed Hot- 
 tentots to give evidence on oatli ; because, iu the pre- 
 sent state of the interior of the colony, it would be one 
 of the most difficult things imaginable, to get one white 
 man to witness against another, if it referred to an in- 
 jury sustained by a Hottentot.
 
 OCT.] JOURNEY IN THE COLONY. 481 
 
 III the forenoon Mr. Bellote, the parish minister, 
 very politely sent his horse waggon to take us to Tul- 
 bach, a small village higher up the valley, where the 
 Landdrost and the other public officers of the district 
 reside. We waited with our friend Mr. De Lange on 
 Mr. Van de Graaf, the Landdrost, who received us in 
 a friendly way; and on our return halted at Mr. 
 Bellote's. 
 
 The people have built a good meeting, and pur- 
 chased a good house for our missionary Mr. Vos, who 
 assiduously labours among the slaves there and in the 
 region round about. In the evening we visited the 
 slave-school taught by his son, and were much pleased 
 with the progress the slaves and Hottentots had made 
 in reading, some of whom, though thirty years of age, 
 were labouring to acquire the art of reading. 
 
 23rd. Spent the day in conversation with the mis- 
 sionaries Vos and Kramer, about missionary concerns. ■ 
 
 24tli. Heard a sermon in the parish church in the 
 forenoon, and Mr. 11. preached to slaves and others in 
 the afternoon and evening. 
 
 25 th. Was happy to find that neither the Landdrost 
 nor parish minister, had any objection to our sending 
 missionaries to the Hottentots at Kamis IMountain, or 
 to the Bastard Hottentots at Cedar Mountain. We 
 had a pleasant meeting with friends of missions at Mr. 
 I*. F. Theron's, at Winterhook, which lies about five 
 
 3 Q
 
 482 JOURNEY IN THE COLONY. [1813. 
 
 miles north of Tulbach, almost at the head of the val- 
 ley. The situation is very romantic, being nearly sur- 
 rounded by mountains, whose tops touch the clouds, 
 and it is abundantly supplied with excellent water. 
 After dinner we had a meeting with four of the com- 
 mittee who have the direction of the means used for 
 the instruction of slaves in that part of Africa. Observ- 
 ing them to be worthy and zealous men, we proposed 
 their taking the superintendance of the Society's con- 
 cerns in the extensive district of Tulbach : to which 
 they consented, and I have no doubt that they will be 
 of essential service to the interests of the Society. We 
 returned to Mr. De Lange's in the evening. 
 
 26th. Attended to various missionary concerns; 
 among others Mr. Kramer consented to visit the Hot- 
 tentots at Cedar Mountain, to examine their circum- 
 stances for the information of the Society. 
 
 27th. At ten, A.M. we left Kirk Street on horse- 
 back, accompanied by Messrs. Vos and De Lange. 
 On arriving at his farm, he conducted us to Mr. 
 Edwards's in his waggon, who took us in charge and 
 conveyed us in his cart to our waggons at Mr. Botman's. 
 We halted by the way at a boor's, who complained 
 much that they had so few means of instruction in that 
 corner. Oh how little the Christians in Britain are 
 aware of the value of their advantages ! We reached 
 our waggons about seven in the evening, and found all 
 well, but longing so much for our return that they had 
 resolved to send a party in search <)ius on the follow-
 
 OCT.] JOURNEY IN THE COLONY. 483 
 
 ing day. Mr. and Mrs. Botman gave us a hearty wel- 
 come back to their house. 
 
 28th. From some mistake our oxen did not return 
 from feeding at a distance till six in the evening. We 
 took leave of our kind friends and departed at seven. 
 The evening; was cool, and we had tiie advantage of 
 a moon a quarter old for three or four hours. We con- 
 tinued our journey until four o'clock in the morning, 
 when we halted opposite to a boor's place, all of us 
 much tired with our journey. 
 
 29th. The day being cool, we got into motion about 
 eleven, A.M. and arrived at Zwartland Kirk, at three 
 P.M. where we halted, and spent three hours in con- 
 versation with Mr. Schoaltz, the parish minister, who 
 told me that the first place of worship he had attended 
 in England was my chapel in Kingsland ; and wliat is 
 more singular, that the first time two other ministers 
 (out of seven) in the colony spoke in public, in the 
 English language, was in Kingsland Chapel, viz. Messrs. 
 Kicherer and Vos of Zwartberg ; and that the first 
 time Mr. Bakker of Stellenbosch prayed in English 
 was in the same place. I thought these were curious 
 coincidences. 
 
 Mr. S. has an elegant house and large garden, but he 
 was low spirited, having never recovered his cheerful- 
 ness since the death of his only son. Living retired, 
 and doing little, the loss preys upon his frame : nothing 
 but Calvary can cure such diseases of the mind. 
 
 3 d ^
 
 484 
 
 JOURNEY IN THE COLONY. 
 
 [1813. 
 
 Left Zvvartland Kirk about sun-set, and travelled 
 until ten, P.M. when we halted near water. 
 
 30th. In the morning Table Mountain, behind 
 Cape-town, was full in view, which, from its great 
 height, appeared near, though upwards of thirty miles 
 distant. 
 
 The folloxving are the number of creatures killed by 
 our people during the journey. 
 
 Lion 1 
 
 Wolves 2 
 
 Hyagna 1 
 
 Buffaloes 5 
 
 Hippopotami, or "^ 
 Sea-cows • • • • y 
 
 Knoos • • • 3 
 
 Quachas 15 
 
 Elks 8 
 
 Ducker 1 
 
 Springbucks ....•• 38 
 
 Redbucks 6 
 
 Steinbucks 9 
 
 95 
 
 95 
 
 Rhebucks .....#•• 3 
 
 Bushbuck • 1 
 
 Zebras • • • 2 
 
 Baboon .......... 1 
 
 Serpents 31 
 
 Jackal 1 
 
 Scorpions 17 
 
 Ostriches 2 
 
 Guinea Fowls ••♦• 17 
 
 Wild Geese 2 
 
 Wild Ducks 9 
 
 Wild Peacock • • • • 1 
 
 182 
 
 While travelling in South Africa, and visiting various 
 nations, I hardly met with half a dozen of the natives 
 who are corpulent, but a great majority of the white 
 inhabitants are so, especially the females. Can this
 
 OCT.] JOURNEY IN THE COLONY. 485 
 
 be owing to the nature of the air, or good living 
 and the want of exercise? In general they sleep 
 much, and do little, in consequence of having so many 
 slaves and Hottentots to serve them. In addition to 
 a good night's rest, they sleep during the heat of the 
 day, so that in fact they are dead except mornings and 
 evenings. The value of nothing is so little known as 
 that of time. 
 
 The day was warm, but a cooling breeze springing 
 up in the afternoon, encouraged us to proceed at five 
 o'clock. The country through which we travelled was 
 more generally cultivated than any other part of Africa 
 we had seen. 
 
 We expected to reach a salt lake, at the side of 
 which is a spring of good water; but though we went 
 forward till one o'clock in the morning; there was no 
 appearance of it, which disposed us to stop at a pool 
 where there was good grass. We killed a snake on 
 the road, which by its hissing discovered itself to us in 
 the dark, so that what it used for defence caused its 
 death. 
 
 31st. Day light discovered that we were in the 
 midst of corn-fields, but we were glad our cattle had 
 not gone into any of them. As it was necessary to de- 
 part from such a place as fast as possible, we left it at 
 seven in the morning, and reached the salt lakes at half 
 past eight o'clock, where we halted to spend the day. 
 We found good water within a few yards of the lake.
 
 486 ARRIVAL AT CAPE-TOWN. [1813. 
 
 Some waggons from Cape-town were here, and we 
 found our dog Lion was with them, who had been 
 missing for more than a fortnight. On seeing us, he 
 seemed pleased to rejoin his old masters, but after re- 
 maining a while with us, he was desirous to follow his 
 new friends, when we fastened him to the waggon. 
 
 Now Capetown, Table Mountain, Table Bay, with 
 the shipping were all full in view. 
 
 When the worship of the sabbath was over, Mr. 
 Read and I walked to Cape-town in the evening after 
 sun-set, where I was received by my kind friend Mr. 
 K. Duncan and his friends, with open arms; our 
 wagsons were to follow next mornins;. 
 
 Thus ended a journey of nearly nine months, and 
 all of us were in as good health as when we set out ; 
 indeed I was much better. Were I to forget to praise 
 the Lord for his protecting care, I should be one of 
 the most ungrateful beings under the sun; for his 
 goodness and mercy attended us every day, and as far 
 as I know, every object I had in view in the journey 
 prospered far beyond my expectation. Many news- 
 papers and about thirty letters were waiting for me 
 from various quarters, but I had resolution to put off 
 their perusal till the following day.
 
 CHAP. XLI. 
 
 OCCURRENCES AFTER MY RETURN TO CAPE-TOWN. 
 
 JJURING my residence at Cape-town, after my 
 return from the interior, but few circumstances oc- 
 curred worthy to be related to the public. I was glad 
 to find a religious society formed in the meeting-house, 
 composed almost entirely of soldiers, who had chosen 
 Mr. Thom for their pastor, and to whom they were 
 much attached. Besides those who were members of 
 the society, a considerable number of other soldiers 
 regularly attended. After the first sermon that I 
 preached to them after my return, a serjeant said to me, 
 *' Strange, Sir, that I should have come from England 
 to Africa to become acquainted with Jesus Christ." I 
 told him that I knew a person who went much farther 
 on the same errand, viz. from England to the East 
 Indies. 
 
 November l6th. In the evening we met with about 
 sixty of the friends of missions, in a large room at the 
 house of ]\Irs. Smutz, to whom Mr. Read gave an 
 account of our journey in the Dutch language, in 
 which the company appeared to feel a lively interest.
 
 488 CAPE-TOWN. [1813. 
 
 On the 24th there was much thunder, hghtning, 
 and rain the whole day. About noon the heavens 
 were suddenly overcast with such thick, black clouds 
 as to render it so dark I could neither read nor write by 
 day-light. There were four or live peals of thunder 
 so loud as to resemble the explosion of a mine, or the 
 blowing up of a ship. The flashes of lightning were 
 so vivid and extensive, and followed each other in such 
 quick succession, as to remind me of what was common 
 on the confines of Caffraria. All the slaves in ]\Ir. 
 Duncan's house, except one, were sick at this time, 
 owing, it was thought, to the state of the air. During 
 the whole succeeding night it blew with extreme 
 violence from the S.W. 
 
 On the 27th ten of the Hottentots who had accom- 
 panied me the whole journey set out on their return to 
 Bethelsdorp. They came in a body to bid me farewell. 
 I was glad when the parting scene was over, believing 
 that I should see them no more. The day was sultry 
 — the thermometer in my room, with two large win- 
 dows open, was 84. The evening being cool and 
 pleasant, most of the inhabitants walked on the terraces 
 in front of their houses. 
 
 December 6th. Having been invited by the friends 
 of missions at Paarl to pay them a visit, and inform 
 them of the circumstances of the journey, Mr. Read 
 and I left Cape-town at five in the morning, in Mr. 
 Roos's waggon accompanied by Mrs. Smit and Mrs. 
 Smulz, both of whom are warm friends to the heathen,
 
 dec] CAPE-TOWN. 489 
 
 and very active in doing good, in every way in their 
 power. 
 
 At nine A.M. we halted by the side of a salt lake, 
 to breakfast and to refresh our horses. A cloth was 
 immediately spread on the grass, on which the pro- 
 visions which the ladies had brought with them were 
 placed, around which we sat and partook in the 
 patriarchal fashion. We brought fresh water for 
 ourselves, but our poor horses had none. They tasted 
 the salt lake at various points, but could not drink of 
 its water ; had they not possessed this valuable sense 
 of taste, their feelings would have induced them to 
 drink plentifully, which must have greatly increased 
 their thirst. The value of this sense never struck me 
 more powerfully than on this occasion. 
 
 After leaving the lake we travelled along the west 
 side of Tiger Mountain, till we came to a pass across 
 the mountains. About two P.M. we halted at a 
 boor's, and dined on what we had brought with us, 
 and at seven P.M. arrived at Mr. Roos's at Paarl, 
 which is about thirty-six miles from Cape-town. At 
 eight, about a hundred people assembled, to whom 
 Mr. Read preached. 
 
 The christians here have frequent meetings to con- 
 verse on the scripture, and for prayer. Every house, 
 as is common throughout the colony, has a large room 
 fit for a chapel, where the family generally sit during 
 the day. These rooms readily accommodate a 
 
 3 R
 
 490 CAPE-TOVVN. [1814. 
 
 hundred people and more, and their meetings circulate 
 from house to house. These christians have erected 
 a building capable of containing three hundred persons, 
 which is intended for the insti'uction of their slaves. 
 
 On the following evening Mr. Read gave an account 
 of our journey to a large assembly of friends, after which 
 I added a little, and then Mrs. S. gave an address, 
 which brought tears from every eye, while she pleaded 
 the cause of the poor heathen, representing their 
 wretchedness, and asking how they would feel were 
 their own children placed in similar circumstances. 
 
 In the morning of the eighth, accompanied by friends 
 in several waggons, we went to Mr. Retiff's at Dra- 
 kenstein, where Mr. Read preached at one P.M. 
 after which we went to Stellenbosh, where we arrived, 
 a little before sun-set, at the house of my worthy friend 
 Mr. Kuyper, where I had resided very comfortably for 
 two months previous to my journey. The next day, 
 after visiting various friends, we returned to Draken- 
 stein, and the succeeding day to Paarl, where we 
 found Mrs. S. had been indisposed ever since our 
 departure. 
 
 In the evening, Mr. Read preached to the slaves, when 
 about two hundred slaves and free people were present. 
 After sermon, the people brought me donations to 
 assist in sending the gospel to the heathen whom we 
 had visited, to the amount of about five hundred rix- 
 dollars ; even the slaves came with their skillings and
 
 JAN.] CAPE-TOWN. 491 
 
 stivers, and parted with them most chearfully to aid 
 the cause of missions. This M^as a most happy evening 
 to me. It gladdened my heart to behold these blessed 
 fruits of the gospel. 
 
 1 1 th. We designed to have set off at four in the 
 morning, on our return to the Cape, that we might 
 avoid travelling during the heat of the day, but 
 by some mistake, we all arose about one o'clock, 
 and departed about three, when we travelled for 
 some time by star light, but the sun rising in splended 
 majesty, the darkness fled away. At seven A.M. we 
 halted near a pool of water where we breakfasted, 
 and then went forward to a farm house where we rested 
 during the hottest part of the day. About five in the 
 evening we arrived at Cape-town. 
 
 I was informed of a circumstance relating to Cape- 
 town which greatly surprised me, viz. That genteel 
 females, having spurious children, go openly to church, 
 and in presence of two thousand people present them 
 to be baptized, and as in other cases, the names of 
 mother and children are inserted in the weekly news- 
 paper; the names of such were pointed out to me. 
 This is a degree of bold effrontery unknown in England, 
 especially amongst genteel people ; but how ladies of 
 character can witness it, is, to me, rather mysterious. 
 
 On the 12th of January, 1814, I waited on His 
 Excellenc}', the Governor, on his return from the 
 interior, who informed me that he had given to the 
 
 3 R 2
 
 492 CAPE-TOWN. [1814v 
 
 Society one of the best places he had seen in Africa 
 for a new settlement, and had named it Theopolis.* 
 It is one of the places which I visited in the Zurefeld, 
 or Albany, not far from Catfraria, which may ulti- 
 mately become a very important station. I was sorry 
 to learn from his Excellency that, during the three 
 months preceding, the Caffres had stolen from the 
 colony upwards of two thousand head of cattle, and 
 killed five persons. Orders were given that on the 
 next depredation, a party should enter their country, 
 and kill a suitable number of their cattle and leave 
 them all dead, to shew it is not for plunder but 
 punishment. The Governor expressed dissatisfaction 
 with the appearance of Bethelsdorp, and warmly 
 recommended to Mr. Read to attempt an improve- 
 ment upon his return to that station."!' 
 
 On the 19th Sir John Cradock, the Governor, visit- 
 ed the Free-school, which is conducted on the British 
 plan of education. About one hundred and fifty young 
 people were present, who performed their parts as 
 readily as any similar school in England. Twelve of 
 the best scholars were presented by his Excellency with 
 silver medals. 
 
 * Or, City of God. 
 
 t From letters which I have received from Bethelsdorp since 
 my arrival in England I find that Mr. Read is actively proceeding 
 according to this recommendation.
 
 FEB.] CAPE-TOWN. 493 
 
 Waited on a Mr. M , who has a grant from 
 
 government of an island at the mouth of the Great, or 
 Orange River. He mentioned that there was an 
 opening into a clifl" a Httle to the south of that river, 
 which would afford shelter to two ships — that a bar 
 runs across the mouth of the river, which has five 
 fathoms water on it when the tide is down — that there 
 are no trees lining the sides of the river near the sea — 
 that there are several small islands near the mouth, but 
 he was uncertain whether they may not be overflowed 
 during the rainy season — he thinks there are fountains 
 in the neighbourhood, but was not sure if they have 
 
 always water. Mr. M could at any time convey 
 
 a cargo from Cape-town by sea to the Great River. 
 
 I visited with much pleasure the military schools at 
 the Barracks, in which there were about two hundred 
 children, who are all taught according to the British 
 system, and appeared to have made great proficiency. 
 Mr. Jones, the colonial Chaplain, has, much to his 
 credit, paid great attention to these schools, and brought 
 them to their present state. 
 
 Having requested Mr. Kramer, a missionary, to visit 
 the people living at the foot of the Cedar Mountains 
 in a remote part of the district of Tulbach, and to 
 inquire into their circumstances, he went thither, and 
 on his return informed me that there were of 
 
 White people 16 
 
 Baptized Bastard Hottentots • • • • 63 
 
 79
 
 494 CAPE-TOWN. [I814. 
 
 79 
 
 Unbaptized Do. Do. 168 
 
 Slaves 10 
 
 <151 
 
 Of these twenty-five can read, and they all ex- 
 pressed a desire for Mr. Kramer to come and settle 
 among them, which, if the government permit, he 
 is willing to do. 
 
 On Friday, the 1 1th of February, I visited a Maho- 
 metan mosque. The place was small — the floor was 
 covered with green baze, on which sat about a hun- 
 dred men, chiefly slaves, Malays, and Madagascars. 
 All of them wore clean white robes, made in the fashion 
 of shirts, and white pantaloons, with white cotton cloths 
 spread before them, on which they prostrated them- 
 selves. They sat in rows, extending from one side of 
 the room to the other. There were six priests, wearing 
 elegant turbans. A chair, having three steps up to it, 
 stood at the east end of the place, which had a canopy 
 supported by posts, resembling the tester of a bed with- 
 out trimmings. Before this chair stood two priests 
 who chaunted something, I supposed in the Malay 
 language, in the chorus of which the people join- 
 ed. At one part of it, the priests held their ears 
 between the finger and thumb of each hand, continuing 
 to chaunt, sometimes turning the right elbow upwards 
 and the left downwards, and then the reverse. This 
 awkward motion they continued to make for some time.
 
 FEB.] CAPE-TOWN. 495 
 
 After this form was ended, one of the priests covered 
 his head and face with a white veil, holding in his hand 
 a long black staff with a silver head, and advanced in 
 front of the chair. When the other had chaunted a 
 litde, he mounted a step, making a dead halt ; after a 
 second chaunling he mounted the second step, and in 
 the same way the third, when he sat down upon the 
 chair. He descended in the same manner. 
 
 The people were frequently, during this form, 
 prostrating themselves in their ranks as regularly as 
 soldiers exercising. A corpulent priest then standing 
 in a corner, near the chair, with his face to the wall, 
 repeated something in a very serious singing manner, 
 when the people appeared particularly solemn; after 
 which the service concluded. It appeared all to 
 consist of forms without any instruction. How different 
 the kingdom of Christ ! — according to which mere 
 bodily exercise profiteth little.
 
 CHAP. XLII. 
 
 VOYAGE TO ENGLAND. 
 
 After settling a variety of concerns, the sailing of 
 a fleet for England, under convoy of the Lion of 64 
 guns, was announced for the 13th of February, on 
 which morning I went on board the brig Venus, com- 
 manded by Captain Kilgour, accompanied by several 
 friends. We got under weigh about eight in the morn- 
 ing, when my friends Messrs. Read, Duncan, Shep- 
 pard, &c. took leave, and returned to the shore. Our 
 fleet consisted of nine sail besides the Commodore. 
 After passing the north side of Robin Island, we got 
 into the open ocean with a fair wind, and soon lost 
 sight of Cape-town, and before evening of Africa also, 
 a country for the welfare of which I think I shall feel 
 interested as long as I live — a country in which I have 
 spent the most memorable months in my life, and I 
 hope that good effects will ultimately be produced by 
 my visit. 
 
 On the next day, I had a very narrow escape while 
 writing in the cabin, for by the pitching of the ship a
 
 FEB.] VOYAGE TO ENGLAND. 497 
 
 heavy chair on deck was driven through the sky-light, 
 which was open, and struck me on the head ; but in 
 consequence of its falHng in an inclining direction, the 
 wound was sHght compared with what it might have 
 been. 
 
 On the 20th we crossed the tropic of Capricorn, 
 just at the time of our worship on deck, which the 
 passengers and seamen attended, and which they con- 
 tinued regularly to do all the rest of the voyage, on the 
 sabbath : they also received tracts and books, which 
 most of them read with apparent attention* 
 
 On the 24th in the morning we observed a mass of 
 thick clouds far a-head, which the captain supposed 
 were attracted by the island of St. Helena, which in 
 the afternoon was found to be the case, for the high land 
 was visible, but being too distant to reach it during 
 day light, the fleet stood off to windward during 
 the night, expecting to reach the roadstead in the 
 mornino;. 
 
 Day light next morning gave us a fine view of the 
 south side and east end of the island, which had a 
 bleak appearance, and seemed inaccessible at all 
 points. At ten, A.M. we descried about ten ships 
 lying at anchor, and at noon we anchored among 
 them opposite to James-town. Thus in twelve days 
 we had sailed more than sixteen hundred miles, having 
 had a fair wind the whole way. 
 
 3 s
 
 498 VOYAGE TO ENGLAND. [1814; 
 
 When the ship was moored, the Captain, Mr. Beck, 
 and I went ashore, and dined with Mr. Hastie from 
 London, when we found that some of the Indiamen in 
 the roads had been M'aiting for convoy, three, four, 
 five, and one of them, six months, which had cost some 
 of them four or five thousand pounds, besides greatly 
 damaging their cargoes, and being a great additional 
 expense to the passengers, about thirty shilhngs a day 
 each ; infants at the breast are charged ten or fifteen 
 shilhngs a day. 
 
 Both the clergymen of the island, the Rev. Messrs. 
 Boys and Jones, kindly invited me to take up my re- 
 sidence with them. I lodged with the former during 
 my stay. 
 
 26th. Mr. Boys accompanied me on a ride into the 
 country. We left James-town at eleven, A.M. when 
 we instantly began to ascend the almost perpendicular 
 side of Ladder Hill, by a zig-zag path, cut out of the 
 rock with great labour. The path is secured by a 
 parapet wall on the outside. To a stranger the road 
 has a most terrific appearance, especially if he looks 
 directly down upon the town as he ascends. Our road 
 was up hill for njore than an hour. Many gentlemen's 
 seats on the sides of the mountains, and the winding 
 patlis to them, made the scenery very picturesque, and 
 particularly gratifying on landing from the sea. Planta- 
 tion house, the seat of the governor, is a neat, plain 
 house, pleasantly situated among trees, having a fine 
 view of the ocean. The furze and the bramble bushes,
 
 FtB.] VOYAGE TO ENGLAND. 499 
 
 imported from Europe, grow abundantly all over the 
 island. 
 
 We halted for some time at Colonel Smith's 
 charming place, where he has extensive gardens and 
 orchards, laid out with great taste by himself. The 
 peaches were so abundant that part of them were con- 
 sumed by the swine. We next visited Dr. Baldon, 
 whom I had seen in Scotland, who on account of a 
 pulmonary complaint has resided eight years on the 
 island, kept alive by the salubrity of the air and uni- 
 formity of the climate, the thermometer being seldom 
 under 70 or higher than eighty. Returned to James- 
 town before sun-set. 
 
 27th. Heard Mr. Boys preach in the morning and 
 Mr. Jones in the evening. Both were evangelical dis- 
 courses ; and I was sorry to observe so few of the in- 
 habitants of the town attending, except children and 
 soldiers : the rest seemed chiefly to be strangers be- 
 longing to the ships. Glad, however, was I to find 
 such doctrine preached at St. Helena. 
 
 On the 28th, after dinner, rode out with Messrs. 
 Boys and Hastie, to take a view of Sanday Bay, where 
 there is the most romantic scenerv in the island. The 
 mountains form a very majestic amphitheatre, deco- 
 rated with various gentlemen's seats. We halted for 
 some time at one of them, Mr. Doveton's, who, 
 though nearly seventy years of age, has never been off 
 the island. The ride home over the mountains was so 
 
 3 s 2
 
 500 VOYAGE TO ENGLAND. [ISI4. 
 
 fatiguing, that on arriving I could hardly dismount; 
 and Mr. B. must have felt much the same weariness, as 
 in consequence of the ride he was unable to sup with 
 as at Mr. Jones's. The most distant part of the island 
 from James-town is only nine miles, consequently a 
 longer journey cannot be taken ; of course their ideas 
 of travelling must be very limited. 
 
 A gentleman on the island had a son married in 
 England. On his death, his widow and children came 
 out to his father at St. Helena, who complained at the 
 Governor's table of her extravagance, in consequence, 
 as he thought, of having travelled all over England ; 
 for, said he, she had been fifteen miles from London ! 
 A lady of the island also remarked, on some occasion, 
 what a bustle London must be in when the India ships 
 arrive. Little did she imagine that few individuals, 
 except those immediately concerned, know any thing 
 of the matter. 
 
 There are about three thousand inhabitants on St. 
 Helena, about sixteen hundred of whom are military. 
 The military, and the ships that arrive, are the chief 
 sources of support to the island. The late order for 
 the India ships to rendezvous at the Cape instead of St. 
 Helena, will certainly injure the island, except as a mili- 
 tary station. The inhabitants who cannot rear fowls must 
 be content to live chiefly on salt provisions. I visited 
 an excellent public school for the instruction of children 
 belonging to the poorer classes of society under the 
 tuition of a worthy man. There are visible proofs all
 
 MARCH.] VOYAGE TO ENGLAND. 502 
 
 over the island that it has been produced by volcanic 
 eruptions. 
 
 The first day of March being fixed for the fleet to 
 sail, the Commodore fired a gun in the morning, as a 
 signal for all to get on board. About eleven, I left the 
 friendly house of Mr. Boys, accompanied by him and 
 his colleague Mr. Jones, and Ensign Armstrong, whose 
 friendly attentions also I shall not soon forget. On 
 reaching the pier, 1 found our ships boat waiting for 
 me, when, with painful feelings, I parted from these 
 kind friends and went on board. At noon the fleet, 
 which now consisted of twenty-one sail, got under 
 weigh with a gende breeze, which gradually removed us 
 from St. Helena till it was no longer visible. 
 
 On the morning of the ninth we discovered the island 
 of Ascension, about forty miles to the N.W. which is 
 about eight hundred miles from St. Helena. The cry 
 of " Land" made every sleeper rise, and run to see it. 
 At four P.M. being within a few miles of the island, 
 several of us were ready to go on shore to catch turtle, 
 but a strange ship appearing to the eastward, the Com- 
 modore by signal ordered all to hold on their course, 
 while he, with a fast-sailing Indiaman, went in pursuit 
 of the strange sail ; so our turtle expedition was frus- 
 trated. At sun-set we were ordered by signal to lie-to 
 during the night, when our little brig had a narrow 
 escape from being run down by one of the large India- 
 men. We were detained till noon next day, as we sup- 
 posed, for the turtle catchers ; and having no expecta-
 
 502 VOYAGE TO ENGLAND. [1814. 
 
 tion of a share, we were all grumbling at the detention, 
 and began to calculate how much expense was incurred 
 by the fleet losing eighteen hours in officers and sea- 
 men's wages, and interest of value of the cargoes ; and 
 concluded that the six turtles which were caught \vould 
 cost England two thousand pounds : but the idea of this 
 loss never would have occurred to any on board, had we 
 been permitted to go on shore. Two sleeping turtles 
 passed our ship within a few yards, but being judged 
 about six or seven hundred pounds weight, they were too 
 heavy to be lifted into a boat, and were, with a general 
 grudge, allowed to pass undisturbed. The small island 
 of Ascension can never be inhabited, as it contains no 
 spring of water, and the surface is almost entirely cover- 
 ed with a kind of cinder, on which there is not the small- 
 est verdure. It is chiefly inhabited by sea fowls and fe- 
 male turtles, who repair thither to deposit their eggs ; but 
 how such a stupid looking animal finds out this speck 
 of land, in so extended an ocean, is truly wonderful : 
 if it be by scent, one would suppose they could only 
 smell it when on a line with it to the north, as the wind 
 there always blows from the south : if the island gives 
 a taste to the water for many miles round, and that 
 taste be stronger as the island is approached, still the 
 currents would be an obstruction to finding it out by 
 taste. 
 
 When within about five degrees of the line, . the 
 water through which the ship passed was at night so 
 illuminated, that it seemed as if mingled with fiery 
 meteor, and could a person have sat steadily on the
 
 MARCH.] VOYAGE TO ENGLAND. 503 
 
 helm, I think he might have read large print. We 
 took up a little of it, which, after having examined 
 by a magnifying glass, we concluded was the spawn 
 of some fish. We observed many white spots in it, 
 which appeared to be the embryo of fishes. This 
 matter does not shine except when agitated by the 
 breaking of a wave, or the motion of a ship forced 
 against it. On putting some of it into our hands, it lost 
 the luminous appearance, but when held up, this was 
 restored. 
 
 On the 16th, during the night, we crossed the line 
 with light winds attended with squalls, and the swell soon 
 began to come from the N.E. Our cabin, which had 
 lately been painted of a French grey colour, became 
 black from the influence of the heat upon the cargo, 
 especially the sugar. Most of us had what is called 
 the prickly heat, or rash, resembling measles, all over 
 our skin, wiiich, though not painful, produced a con- 
 stant desire to rub it. On the 18th we were much 
 amused by several beautiful dolphins, following and 
 playing about the ship. They appeared in the wa- 
 ter of a verdigris green, and sometimes a beautiful 
 brown colour. After several unsuccessful throws of 
 the harpoon, the captain at length struck it into one, 
 and brought it on deck, to the no small gratification of 
 such of us as had not seen one before. We all pro- 
 nounced it a most compleat beauty, not inferior to any 
 creature on land, not excluding the golden pheasant, or 
 the bird of paradise. The back was dark green, mix-
 
 504 VOYAGE TO ENGLAND. [i814. 
 
 ed with large blue spots, in the middle of which was a 
 red spot like a drop of blood — the green as it descend- 
 ed gradually became lighter till lost in the colour of the 
 finest gold — this yellow became paler till lost in white 
 which was the colour of the belly. The fins were 
 equally ornamented. The shape, of the finest sym- 
 metry. It was about three feet and a half long. When 
 cut up, one large and several small flying fishes were 
 found in its stomach. When boiled it was nearly as 
 white as snow under the skin, and had a delicate taste. 
 The heavens are generally clouded near the line, which 
 serves as an umbrella to protect from the burning rays 
 of a vertical sun. 
 
 On the 21st the sun crossed the equator, and I had 
 an opportunity to see verified Dr. Franklin's assertion, 
 that oil thrown upon agitated water will smooth it. A 
 South-Sea whaler near us pumped out her bilge water, 
 which was mixed with oil, when the sea, for a quarter 
 of a mile behind her, became as smooth as glass. On 
 the 31st. we passed, about a thousand miles to west- 
 ward of the Cape de Verd Islands. 
 
 On the 4ti;i of April we crossed the tropic of Cancer, 
 and entered the temperate zone, pleased to leave the 
 torrid behind us, when some on board said they began 
 to smell European air. On the 7th, though at a great 
 distance from land, we observed much sea-weed mov- 
 ing past us. A whaler ran foul of us, which for some 
 minutes excited considerable alarm ; but providentiaily
 
 APiiiL.] VOYAGE TO ENGLAND. . 505 
 
 we got disentangled without sustaining material injury. 
 About one in the morning of the 8 th all were waked 
 from sleep by a sudden and violent gust of wind, which 
 carried away the gaff, or upper boom of our mainsail, 
 and caused the overthrow of chairs, &c. in our cabin. 
 It lasted only about five minutes. 
 
 On the 10th, about eleven, A.M. the Commodore 
 hung out a signal, that he supposed a storm was ap- 
 proaching from the N.W. for which all the ships pre- 
 pared. About noon, as we were preparing for worship 
 on the Lord's day, the storm commenced, and blew 
 very hard, especially after sun-set. Being in a sound 
 slenp during the night, I heard nothing of the storm, 
 though it had occasionally blown with great violence. 
 We were lying-to, under only one reefed topsail, and 
 the sea running very high. 
 
 At five in the afternoon the captain called me on 
 deck, to witness before the day light was gone the 
 awful grandeur of the ocean, and the rolling of the 
 ships around us. A more majestic and sublime scene 
 than such a storm in the midst of the ocean, surely 
 cannot be seen. Though twenty large ships surround- 
 ed us, yet frequently not one of them was visible from 
 our deck, in consequence of the great height of the 
 intervening waves. The sea seemed full of rage and 
 fury, threatening to destroy all who had dared to ven- 
 ture on its surface. I viewed the scene with extreme 
 interest, as an exhibition of the great Creator's power, 
 
 3 T
 
 506 VOYAGE TO ENGLAND. [1814. 
 
 and expressed a wish that my friends in London could 
 be gratified with a panoramic view of it. The foam 
 from the sea, blown about in all directions, added 
 greatly to the gloominess of the scene. 
 
 About nine o'clock at night the Captain again in- 
 vited me on deck to view the scene with the additional 
 gloom of night. The appearance was terrific. Won- 
 derful that our little brig was not dashed into a thou- 
 sand pieces ! 
 
 12th. The wind continued violent all night, and in the 
 morning only two ships were observed from our deck. 
 At nine, A.J\I. several other ships were seen from the 
 mast head, to which we made sail, and in the afternoon 
 we rejoined the fleet. Towards evening the Mind 
 began to abate, though the sea retained its former 
 height. 
 
 At four oclock on the morning of the J 5th all were 
 roused from their slumber by a sudden and violent 
 gust of wind, which caused much confusion while it 
 lasted, which happily was not long. At eight, A.M. 
 a gale of wind rose from the N.E. blowing directly 
 against our farther progress. At eleven, A.lVf. I had 
 no sooner reached the deck, on purpose to view the 
 majestic scene that surrounded us, tlian a sea broke 
 completely over the vessel from stem to stern, when 
 all were drenched with its contents. Towards evening 
 the gale began to abate.
 
 APRIL.] VOYAGE TO ENGLAND. 507 
 
 21st. Having heard or read that if a corked bottle 
 were sunk fifty or sixty fathoms in the ocean, however 
 tight the cork might be, the pressure without would 
 drive the cork into the inside of the botde, on men- 
 tioning it to the captain, he readily consented to make 
 an experiment,* which proved the accuracy of the 
 assertion. 
 
 * We drove a cork very tight into an empty bottle. The cork 
 was so large that more than half of it could not be driven into the 
 neck of the bottle. We then tied a cord round the cork which we 
 also fastened round the neck of the bottle, to prevent the cork 
 sinking down, and put a coat of pitch over the whole. By means 
 of lead we sunk it in the water. When it was let down to about the 
 depth of fifty fathoms, the captain said he was sure that the bottle 
 had instantaneously filled ; on which he drew it up, when we 
 found the cork driven down into the inside, and of course the 
 bottle was full of water. 
 
 We prepared a second bottle exactly in the same way, only with 
 the addition of a sail needle being passed through the upper part 
 of the cork, which rested on the mouth of the bottle, and all com- 
 pleatly pitched over. When about fifty fathoms down, the captain 
 called out as before, that he felt by the sudden increase of weight 
 that the bottle was filled, on which it was drawn up. We were not 
 a little surprised to find the cork in the same position, and no part 
 of the pitch broken, yet the bottle was full of water. None of us 
 could conjecture how the water got in. There was no part of the 
 pitch open that would admit the point of a needle. Supposing 
 the pitch and cork both porous, it does not appear easy to 
 account for a quart of water passing so instantaneously through 
 so small a space — the porousness of the glass seems to be the only 
 /consideration by which we can account for the fact. 
 
 3 T 2
 
 508 VOYAGE TO ENGLAND. [1814. 
 
 On the 29th our Commodore spoke with an Eng- 
 lish frigate ; and on the succeeding morning, at six 
 o'clock, the Carmarthen Indiaman, after hailing us, 
 and finding we had heard no news, telegraphed as 
 follows : 
 
 Peace with France ! ! 
 
 Bonaparte dethroned ! ! ! 
 
 Bourbons and Stadtholder restored ! 
 
 France conquered ! 
 
 The allies in Paris 1 ! ! 
 
 I do not know whether the same experiment as the second 
 was ever tried before, and, therefore, for the satisfaction of the 
 curious and inquisitive, I shall subjoin answers to as many inquiries 
 as I think they would make, were I present with them. 
 
 Are you positively certain there was np water in the second 
 bottle before the cork was put into it ? Positively certain. 
 
 Did the cork compleatly fill the neck of the bottle ? The cork 
 was purposely chosen rather larger than suited the bottle, and not 
 more than one half of it, as on the first experiment, could be forced 
 into it. Likewise to render it still more difficult to be forced 
 down, it was firmly tied to the neck of the bottle with a small 
 cord. 
 
 Did the piercing of the cork with so large a needle as a sail 
 needle not split it ? The captain did it cautiously to prevent that, 
 and succeeded in not injuring it. 
 
 Are you certain that every part of the cork, and especially 
 round the mouth of the bottle, was covered with pitch? Yes, and 
 also about an inch lower down with a thick crust of pitch.
 
 APRiL.l VOYAGE TO ENGLAND. 509 
 
 We, who had heard nothing of Europe later than in 
 September, 1813, were overwhelmed with astonishment 
 on receiving, in the course of a few minutes, such extra- 
 ordinary and unexpected tidings ; we were like men that 
 dreamed. After congratulating each other upon the 
 news, we all felt a strong desire to know the particulars 
 which led to such singular events ; but for this we were 
 obliged to exercise a little patience till we should reach 
 some English port. 
 
 At one, P.M. we got soundings at ninety fathoms, 
 a proof we Mere not at a great distance from land. 
 
 Was the state of it particularly examined when taken up? 
 Yes, by the captain, Mr. Beck a passenger, and by myself, and we 
 observed only one hollow part in the pitch, about the size of a 
 pin's head, that had been a bubble in the pitch, the top of which 
 was broken, but the bottom remained covered with pitch. 
 
 I preserved the bottle in the very state in which it was taken up, 
 till the vessel arrived in the London Docks, but the cabin boy 
 broke it by letting it fall when carrying it to my house in London. 
 
 The experiment was made about eight hundred miles to the 
 westward of Morocco, in calm weather. The lead which sunk 
 the bottle was the same that is used for trying soundings, and the 
 line the same used on such occasions. It was a wine bottle. 
 
 Captain Kilgour, of the Venus, was equally anxious with 
 myself to make the experiment. Both of us were so satisfied that 
 every thing was correctly done, that we did not deem it necessary 
 to make a third trial.
 
 510 VOYAGE TO ENGLAND. [1814. 
 
 The greased lead brought up brown sand : we now 
 viewed ourselves as sailing over the foundation of 
 the island of Britain. 
 
 May 1st. At seven, A.]\f. a Prussian vessel passed 
 near us, and at ten, A.M. an English brig, which con- 
 firmed the news of the preceding day. At noon, sound- 
 ings were found at fifty-five fathoms : at the bottom 
 there were shells and round stones. I preached, in 
 allusion to the news, from Acts viii. 8. 
 
 2nd. The morning light discovered to us the British 
 shore, near the Land's End in Cornwall, which was 
 not an unwelcome sight, especially as we had seen 
 no land since we left the small island of Ascension on 
 the 10th of March. Before evening we entered the 
 chops of the channel. 
 
 3rd. We were all day beating up channel against 
 adverse winds, which increased as the day advanced. 
 About one P.M. the Commodore hung out a signal, 
 advising all ships who thought they could make Ply- 
 mouth harbour to try it, when ours happily effected it; 
 though others of the fleet were obliged to run back for 
 Falmouth. At five, P.M. we cast anchor within a mile 
 of the town of Plymouth ; but the wind blew so vio- 
 lently it was impossible to get ashore, till next day 
 about two o'clock in the afternoon, when I once more 
 landed on British ground ; and as the Annual Meeting 
 of the Missionary Society was to take place on the fol- 
 lowing \yednesday, I took my passage in a London
 
 MAY.] VOYAGE TO ENGLAND. 512 
 
 coach which set off next morning at seven, in which I, 
 and my young African friend Mr. Beck, arrived safe at 
 five on Saturday morning, at the. inn in Lad-lane, and 
 soon after at my own house, where I was thankful to 
 find my friends in good health, of whom I had heard 
 nothing for about a year. 
 
 POSTSCRIPT. 
 
 I cannot close this account of my journies in Africa, 
 without a grateful acknowledgment of the valuable in- 
 formation and assistance I derived from my friend and 
 fellow-traveller Mr. Read. My thanks are also due to 
 Mr. Anderson, who accompanied me from Griqua 
 town to Lattakoo. I am also under obligation to the 
 Griqua Chiefs, Kok and Bern; to Jan Hendrick, a 
 Griqua; and to various Hottentots of the company, 
 who had been in Caffraria. I am also much indebted 
 for useful assistance to all the missionaries in Na- 
 inacqua land. 
 
 Above all, I ascribe praise and glory to Him who 
 inclined me to undertake the journey ; who directed 
 and preserved me through the whole of it; who 
 watched over my affairs while absent from home; 
 and at length restored me in safety and health to my 
 friends and flock.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. I. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 MISCELLANEOUS ACCOUNT OF CAFFRARIA, 
 
 RELIGION— MARRIAGES— SICKNESS— HUNTING. 
 
 c 
 
 'AFFRARIA commences at the Great Fish River, 
 which divides it from Albany in the Colony, and runs along 
 the Indian Ocean, in a N.E. direction, to the River Bassee, 
 which divides it from the Tambookie country. It does not 
 extend more than seventy miles up the country, or to the 
 west, at least at the south end of it, being separated from 
 the Colony and Bushman country on that side by a chain of 
 mountains. It abounds with mountains, woods, and water, 
 and is far more populous than either the Bushman, Coranna, 
 or Namacqua countries. The people also are taller, more ro- 
 bust, and more industrious. Better shaped men I never saw. 
 They are a warlike race, and many of them are greatly addicted 
 to plundering. Like the Chinese, they consider all other peo- 
 ple inferior to themselves, and suppose that Europeans wear 
 clothes merely on account of having feeble and sickly 
 bodies. 
 
 They have scarcely any religion ; but some of them profess 
 to believe that some great being came from above, and made 
 the world, after which he returned, and cared no more about 
 it. It is very probable that even this feeble ray of light was 
 obtained by means of their intercourse with the Dutch boors 
 during several ages. They consider man as on a level with 
 the brutes with regard to the duration of his being, so that 
 when he is dead there is an end of his existence. 
 
 3u
 
 514 CAFFRARIA, 
 
 When 1 enquired of some of our Hottentots who had hved 
 among the Caffres, if they had any conjectures among them 
 concerning the nature of the heavenly bodies, they said the 
 Caffres did not allow their thoughts to extend so far as the 
 stars. 
 
 Like the Matchappees, they have circumcision among 
 them, though ignorant of what gave rise to the custom. 
 They perform this ceremony on their young men at the age 
 of fourteen years, or more. For this purpose they are 
 caught, for they seldom submit willingly, and brought into a 
 house, when the operation is forcibly performed; after which 
 they are nut permitted to sleep till they are healed, and to keep 
 them awake, men are employed to beat them on the ends of 
 their fingers. One man performs this office for a consider- 
 able district, and is paid for his trouble by a calf or an 
 assagay. They daub the person over with white, so that our 
 Hottentots said, he looks like the devil. They likewise 
 furnish him with an apron made from a plant which grows 
 in the rivers of Cafifraria, and the young men, thus painted 
 and dressed, dance together at a distance from the Kraal, to 
 which they are not admitted till perfectly recovered. When 
 recovered, they wash oif the clay in the river, and receive 
 each a new garment as a present from the women. Then 
 the house in which they were confined and every thing in it 
 is burned ; after which a young female is presented to each ; 
 and being now considered as men, they are allowed to eat 
 some parts of a beast, which are forbidden till that rite is 
 performed. When the son of a Caffre chief is circumcised, 
 he becomes chief of all the youth of the same age and 
 imder, and his father retains his authority over all others: 
 thus the power is divided between the father and his 
 eldest son. 
 
 When a Caffre wishes to marry, he invites the female to 
 whom he is partial to his house, and makes a feast. If 
 pleased with her, he negotiates with the parents to marry 
 her, which negotiation chiefly relates to the number of cattle 
 to be given for her ; — if successful, a day is appointed for 
 the celebration of the nuptials. On the morning of that day 
 she appears, widi only a little dress, in presence of the whole 
 Kraal, walking past each person, with companions on each 
 side of her. i'hen she turns her back towards her parents, 
 intimating that to be the last time they shall see her in that 
 state. Cattle are now killed, when they feast and dance as 
 long as they last. 
 
 Polygamy is very general among them. The common
 
 CAFFRARIA. 5] 5 
 
 people have seldom more than one or two wives, but their 
 chiefs generally four or five. 
 
 When a Caffre is sick, they generally send for a person 
 who is considered as a physician, who pretends to extract 
 from the body of the sick, serpents, stones, bones, &c. At 
 other times he beats them on the elbow, knees, and end of 
 their fingers, till (as our Hottentots expressed it) these are 
 almost rotten — they sometimes also kill cattle in the way of 
 sacrifice for the person — at other times the doctor pretends 
 to drive out the devil, and to kill him. 
 
 When their chiefs are long sick, they suppose it to be 
 owing to the conduct of some person in the Kraal. To find 
 out this person they employ some woman who is reported to 
 be a witch, who, when the people are called out, walks 
 round and round them, until she fixes upon the supposed 
 culprit, and points him out; on which ants, formed into 
 balls are brought, when one ball is put between the up- 
 per part of his tliighs, and one under each armpit, to 
 bite and torment him till he confesses; immediately on 
 which he is put to death without mercy. When Congo, a 
 chief, was sick, he employed one of these women to find out 
 the aggressor. She selected a Hottentot who pretended to 
 be a doctor among them. He was instantly slain. His 
 widow- is servant to one of our Missionaries. 
 
 When Gika, the present king of the CafFres, was sick, he 
 attributed it to the enchantments of persons who disliked 
 him, however he would not permit them to be put to death. 
 
 They are very expert in binding up a broken leg or arm. 
 One of our Hottentots broke his arm in Caffraria, and had it 
 well set and cured by a Caffre. 
 
 They have a barbarous custom of exposing their sick 
 friends, who, in their opinion, are not hkely to recover. 
 They carry them to bushes at a distance from the Kraal, 
 where they leave them, either to be devoured by wild beasts, 
 or to die of want. While Congo with his Kraal resided for 
 some time on the grounds of iiethelsdorp, Mr. Read heard 
 they had exposed a woman in this manner. He went to 
 Congo to inquire into the truth of the report ; who assured 
 iiim, that two women attended upon her among the bushes. 
 He went and found tw o w omen as had been stated, but he w as 
 not sure that tliey had not been sent while he conversed with 
 the chief. When he told ihem that that woman, and all 
 mankind, would rise again from the dead, it caused un- 
 common joy among the CaftVes. They said, they should like 
 to see their grandfathers, and otliers whom they mentioned. 
 
 3 u 2
 
 516 CAFFllARIA. 
 
 Congo inquired when it would happen, and if it would be 
 soon, but Mr. Read could not gratify his wishes on that 
 point. 
 
 Sometimes the exposed person revives, and returns to the 
 Kraal ; but if he does not recover, he is again carried to the 
 bushes; and should this be repeated, they shut him up in 
 his house with a small portion of victuals, when the Kraal 
 removes to some other quarter. This cruel practice is con- 
 sidered to arise from a dread of the disease spreading like the 
 }>lague. When Dr. Vanderkemp was in Caffraria, he found 
 they had other practices analogous to this ; such as when any 
 of them are in danger of behig drowned, the rest are so ter- 
 rified that they will either run from him, or throw stones at 
 him ; likewise when a woman is taken in labour, every one 
 runs from her. 
 
 They bury none but their chiefs and their wives ; others 
 are thrown out to be devoured by the wild beasts. Should 
 a person die accidentally in his own house, the whole Kraal 
 is deserted. 
 
 When dying, they seem totally indifferent about it, and the 
 spectators appear as indifferent as the dying ; yet a Caffre 
 will sometimes mourn for the death of a wife or a child. 
 When he does so, he leaves his Kraal, separates himself 
 from every one, and retires into a wood or lonely place, 
 where he lives for a month or two in the maimer of a her- 
 mit ; after which he throws away his cloak and begs for 
 another, on obtaining which he returns to his home. 
 
 Many of the Caffres travel into the countries which sur- 
 round them, sometimes to plunder, at other times merely to 
 gratify curiosity, and to bring back any thing they judge 
 useful or curious. They always travel on foot, carrying no 
 more than their cloak to sleep in during the night. On their 
 return they entertain their friends by relating the most minute 
 circumstance that happened — where and what they ate, 
 where and what kind of water they drank, and every thing 
 they saw or heard, and he who does not do so is despised. 
 When any of them have visited Cape-town, on their return 
 they used to describe how the people dressed, how they 
 washed their mouths, their houses, &c. but never imitated or 
 endeavoured to introduce any of their customs. They ex- 
 pressed surprise at many things which they saw, but never 
 think the white men are more wise or skilful than themselves, 
 for they suppose they could do all that the white men do if 
 they chose. They consider reading and writing as insig- 
 nificant things of no use.
 
 CAFFRARIA. 517 
 
 They are remarkable for retaining the history of their fore- 
 fathers, their former kings and chiefs, and can relate them 
 with great distinctness. When alone, they frequently repeat 
 all they know of former ages, and of friends who are dead, 
 and sometimes weep while doing so. 
 
 Nothing is more disgraceful among the CafFres than for a 
 man to lose or throw away his shield. One of our Hottentots 
 when in Caffraria, observed a Caffre who was as clever as 
 any of them, yet never allowed to associate with them, and 
 often wondered what could be the reason of his disgrace — 
 the Caffre told him it was because he had once thrown away 
 his shield to save his life. 
 
 They are very faithful to any trust reposed in them. 
 Should they get any thing to carry to Cape-town, our Hot- 
 tentots said they would rather lose every thing they had, than 
 that thing with which they were entrusted, and so disappoint 
 the sender. Mr. Read said he had sent many articles by 
 them to their chiefs, and they were always faithfully de- 
 livered — but they have not been very faithful to the promises 
 they have made to the Cape government, having often 
 broken them. 
 
 Many of them are very hospitable to strangers, not wait- 
 ing till they ask for victuals, but bringing it of their own 
 accord, and setting it before them, and always of the best 
 they have. 
 
 They never go a fishing, fish being reckoned unclean, as 
 are also tame fowls, swine, &c. They have no canoes or 
 boats, even to cross a river by; this they perform by tying 
 reeds together, on which they are floated over. 
 
 They often hunt wild beasts, by a whole Kraal turning out, 
 and forming a circle round a large tract of land, and by gra- 
 dually drawing in the circle, they enclose every beast which 
 happens to be in that part within a narrow space. When 
 this is effected, they leave one narrow opening, to which 
 when the animal is advancing, they shoot him. On one of 
 these occasions they happened to enclose a very large 
 ostrich, who advanced quickly to the opening in the circle of 
 Caffres, and with one stroke of his foot, struck dead the 
 Caffre who was nearest him, which excited universal alarm ; 
 and to this day, when a Caffre passes the spot, he makes a 
 low bow as an act of reverence to it. Similar respect is 
 paid to an anchor tliat was cast upon iheir coa-it, belonging 
 to the Dodington or Grosvenor Indiaman, wrecked there, 
 which arose from the following circumstance. A man who 
 had wrought a whole dav, endeavouring to break off j^
 
 518 €AFFRARIA. 
 
 piece of iron from the anchor, happened to die that same 
 evening. The Caffres supposing that his death was occa- 
 sioned by something which proceeded from the anchor, 
 not one of them has ventured to touch it ever since, but 
 every one makes his obeisance to it as he passes. They 
 are very superstitious. Should a person belonging to a 
 Kraal be killed by lightning, none of the other Kraals will 
 associate with that one, accounting them an abomination. 
 
 Sometimes, in order to catch game, they make an en- 
 closure with one entrance, over which they place a large 
 bow, as an arch, with the string extended on a catch. The 
 creature entering, and treading on a certain stick laid in his 
 way, the string comes with violence from off the catch, and 
 suspends him in the air. 
 
 VVhen the wolf is troublesome, they suspend a piece of 
 flesh on a bough, and place an assagay or spear in the 
 ground, that the wolf when leaping to catch the flesh may 
 fall upon it. 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 TRADITIONS— AMUSEMENTS— PUNISHMENTS, kc. 
 
 THE Caflfres have a tradition among them, that when 
 some particular Chief dies, they should drive an ox over his 
 grave, and split his horns, and that afterwards this ox should 
 be sacred, and die of old age. On his death his bones 
 must be burned to ashes, and saluted in a solemn manner. 
 I could not learn what result was expected from these 
 formalities. 
 
 They have likewise a tradition, that their oxen originally 
 came out of a hole in the Tambookie country, to which 
 the Caffres continue annually to pay a tribute of gratitude 
 for this blessing. 
 
 Their chief amusement is dancing; the men on one part, 
 the women on the other — the former spring up and down, 
 the latter only make motions with their heads. While 
 dancing ihey bawl aloud in a disgusting manner. They like- 
 wise use instruments of music. One is a bow with a piece
 
 CAFFUARIA. 519 
 
 of quill fixed near one end of the string, on which they blow, 
 which makes an agreeable sound. The women have a 
 calabash hung to a bow string, on which they beat, and sing 
 in harmony with the beating. The words they use are 
 the names of friends, rivers, and places they can recollect, 
 having no songs. They also make a kind of flute from the 
 thigh bone of some animal, with which they give notice to 
 each other of various things, such as when a meeting of the 
 Kraal is desired. 
 
 In time of peace the Caffres are fond of their children, 
 but in time of war they appear regardless of them, taking 
 their wives with them, but leaving the children to their fate. 
 The chief amusements of the children are imitating the men, 
 in fightmg with their assagays and bludgeons. They likewise 
 employ themselves in making little gardens. Many of the 
 boys are employed in attending the cattle. They are gene- 
 rally obedient and respectful to their parents, and these are 
 not severe in their punishments. 
 
 Before the present reign of Gika, if a man committed 
 adultery, he might be killed by any one who was certain he 
 had done it ; and when the circumstance of the slaughter 
 came to the ears of any of the chiefs, they used to say, It is 
 right that such a dog should be killed, as there are plenty of 
 young ones, and no occasion to take another man's wife. 
 Gika, perhaps from observing that this liberty of putting to 
 death such delinquents, or supposed delinquents, led to bad 
 consequences in many instances, prohibited it, and ordered 
 that such cases should be brought before himself ; but when a 
 person transgresses this order, a present of a few oxen will ap- 
 pease the king's wrath — indeed murder is generally overlooked, 
 and when punished, it is chiefly owing to some aggravating 
 circumstance in the case, and the punishment is only by fine. 
 Theft is punished also by fine, and sometimes by beating 
 with a rod, in which case the king is executioner. When a 
 person is put to death, it is generally by stabbing him with 
 their assagays, or spears ; at other times they split a tree in 
 two pieces, and bending these backwards, place the criminal 
 between them, which being let loose, crush the person to 
 death on their returning to their former position, or hold 
 him fast till he expires. 
 
 Cafl^res of superior talents, discover their superiority by 
 making better assagays, or by discovering greater expertness 
 in throwing them ; others, in planning and making attacks on 
 their enemies j others, by discovering more art in the con»
 
 520 CAFFRARIA. 
 
 struction of their gardens ; and some likewise by greater 
 fluency in speech. 
 
 [n their private quarrels among themselves it is not diffi- 
 cult to bring them to a reconciliation, which is generally 
 effected by the interposition of friends. 
 
 There is a rule or law, sanctioned by custom, among the 
 CaftVes, which falls severely upon the poor females ; viz. 
 when a father dies, all his property is seized by his surviving 
 brother, if he has left one ; which property is applied solely 
 to the support of the male children of the family, and when 
 these come of age, the uncle delivers up the property of their 
 father to them — but as for the widow and fatherless daugh- 
 ters, no provision is made for them. This is not very sur- 
 prising, as it will be found in every country, civilized as well 
 as barbarous, that men being the stronger party, and the 
 makers of the laws, form them more favourably toward their 
 own sex. Whatever knowledge of good, men in savage 
 countries may have lost, in ail countries they have retained 
 the knowledge of their superiority to the other sex, and 
 act accordingly. 
 
 The Caffres have unhappily discovered a method of 
 making a liquor from corn or millet, resembling gin, with 
 which they frequently intoxicate themselves, and having 
 spears as their constant companions, they must in such cases 
 be frequently very outrageous and dangerous. 
 
 CHAP. 111. 
 
 DRESS— SUBSISTENCE— PROPERTY— HOUSES— ANIMALS. 
 
 THE Caffre men do not encumber themselves with much 
 dress, nor do they ever dress for the sake of decency, but 
 merely to protect themselves from cold ; for which purpose 
 they wear a cloak made of cow-skin, which they render al- 
 most as soft and pliable as cloth ; others are made of the skins 
 of wild animals, and all have the hair completely taken off. 
 Their colour is brown. The cloaks of the chiefs are made 
 of tyger skins. When it rains at the lime they are to milk
 
 CAFFRARIA. 521 
 
 the cows, they throw aside this cloak, because, say they, it is 
 easier to dry our skins than our cloaks. They wear no co- 
 vering on their heads : they have sandals on their feet, instead 
 of shoes, which only protect the soles. Besides the loose 
 cloak and sandals, the men have no other covering; which 
 indicates a more barbarous state than any other nation which 
 I visited. This state of nudity made the Matchappees at 
 Lattakoo, who had seen a plundering party of them, speak of 
 them as the greatest savages they had ever seen, and it served 
 to intimidate them when the Caflfres attacked them. They 
 carry constantly with them a walking stick, a club, and two 
 or three assagays. When they go to war, or to hunt lions, 
 they use a kind of oblong shields. They are remarkably fond 
 of ornaments, having rings and beads on every part of theii 
 body ; and on the crown of the head they wear a bunch ol 
 jackall's hair, fastened into a handle of brass. Their rings are 
 of ivory, brass, iron, &c. 
 
 The women wear a cloak resembling those used by the 
 men, tied round the middle of the body by means of a leathern 
 girdle. They generally allow the upper half to hang down be- 
 hind, except in carrying their children on their back, when 
 they bring up their cloak over them, and tie it round their neck, 
 to prevent their falling. They wear caps made of the skin of 
 an animal, which are long, becoming gradually narrower till 
 they terminate in a point, which is ornamented with rows of 
 beads. Both women and children wear small aprons of 
 skin, of the same kind as their caps. They wear metal rings 
 on their fingers and great toes, but no shoes or sandals. The 
 richer sort sew rows of buttons on the backs of their cloaks, 
 and on their shoulders a bunch of tails of different animals, 
 especially of tigers and wild cats. 
 
 The men, but more frequently the women, adorn their 
 arms, backs, and breasts, with rows of small scars. These 
 are formed by piercing the skin with a pointed iron, and 
 pulling it forcibly up under the skin, so as to make it remain 
 prominent above the surface. 
 
 They prepare the hides of cows and oxen, with which they 
 make their cloaks, by first rubbing oft' all ihe flesh and blood 
 from the inside by a certain kind of stone ; after which they 
 rub the hairy side w ith the juice of what is well known in the 
 Colony by the name of Hottentot's fig, then with cow dung, 
 after which it feels smooth and soft, and has much the ap- 
 pearance of our cloth. 
 
 The CafFres use no tables, dishes, knives, or forks at their 
 meals, but every one helps himself, by means of sticks, to 
 
 3 X
 
 522 CAFFRARIA. 
 
 the meat that is in the pot, and eats it in his hand. They 
 obtain fire by rubbing one piece of wood of a certain kind 
 against another. Some however have tinder boxes, which 
 they obtain from the colony. They have no carriages of any 
 kind ; the women are used instead of carriages, or pack oxen. 
 They have no hens, or other domestic fowls, not considering 
 eggs to be designed for food — nor have they any cats, pre- 
 ferring rather to be overrun with mice. Instead of chairs, 
 they sit upon the sculls of their oxen, with the horns still 
 united to them. They use salt when it can be obtained, but 
 M'hen it cannot, they substitute fresh cow dung, which the 
 old Hottentots do to this day. They are unacquainted with 
 the making of butter or cheese from milk. 
 
 The riches of a CatFre chiefly consists in his cattle, of 
 which he is extravagantly fond. He keeps them as carefully 
 as the miser does his gold. He never uses them as beasts of 
 burden, except when he#is removing from one place to ano- 
 ther along with his Kraal, and then they carry the milk bags, 
 or skin bags which contain milk. He is never more gratified 
 than when running before his cattle with his shield, by beat- 
 ing on which the whole are taught to gallop after him. In 
 this way he leads them out to take exercise, and those oxen 
 which run quickest on such occasions, are considered his best ; 
 of these he boasts, and treats them with peculiar kindness. 
 
 They chiefly subsist upon milk ; but in part also by hunting, 
 and by the produce of their gardens. They sow a species of 
 millet, which is known in the colony by the name of Caffre- 
 corn. While growing, it very much resembles Indian corn, 
 only the fruit grows in clusters, like the grape ; the grain is 
 small and round, and when boiled is very palatable. By 
 parching it over a fire, during our journey, we found it a very 
 good substitute for coffee. The CafFres frequently bruise it 
 between two stones, and make a kind of bread from it. To 
 sow it is the work of the women. They scatter the seed on 
 the grass, after which they push off the grass from the surface 
 by means of a kind of w ooden spade, shaped something like 
 a spoon at both ends, by which operation the seed falls upon 
 the ground, and is covered by the grass; from underneath 
 which withered and rotten grass, it afterwards springs up. 
 They also sow pumpkins, water melons, &c. and use various 
 vegetables, which grow wild. They cultivate tobacco, and 
 smoke it, like the Matchappees, through water in a horn. 
 
 The men spend their days in idleness, having no employ- 
 ment but war, hunting, and milking the cows. The women 
 construct the houses, inclosures for the cattle, utensils, and
 
 CAFFRARIA. 525 
 
 clothes ; they also till the ground, and cut wood. They like- 
 wise manufacture mats of rushes, and neat baskets, wrought 
 so close as to contain milk, but which are seldom washed or 
 cleaned, except by the dogs' tongues. 
 
 They can reckon no higher than to a hundred. To keep 
 in remembrance the number of their cattle, &c. they cut 
 notches in wood, each notch meaning an ox or cow. They 
 frequently cross deep rivers by driving in the cattle, aiid, lay- 
 ing hold of their tails, are dragged over by them. 
 
 They have names for many of the stars, and know when it 
 is near ploughing time by the position of some of these. 
 They consider a rainy and a dry season as a year; so that, 
 when speaking of ten years, they would say ten of these 
 seasons. They have no money, but cattle, and other 
 articles of subsistence, are used in its place, by way of 
 exchange. 
 
 Their method of preserving cori> till it is necessary to 
 use it, is somewhat curious. They dig a large hole in the 
 middle of their cattle- kraal, the entrance of which is narrow, 
 but is enlarged under ground, according to the size requisite 
 to contain their stock. To secure the entrance, they plaster 
 it first over with damp dung of their cattle, over which they lay 
 dry dung about a foot in depth, which becomes so firm that 
 their cattle, when put into the Kraal in the evenings, can 
 walk over it without its sustaining any injury. Why they 
 choose their cattle-kraal for placing their magazme in, I could 
 not learn, but it is probably on account of their considering it 
 the most secure place, as their cattle being their most valuable 
 property will be best guarded in the night time — or because, 
 should a thief come among the cattle, the noise they would 
 make would probably awake tliose who might be asleep. 
 When a family opens their magazine, they take such a quantity 
 as they judge sufficient for their consumption to a certain 
 time. The neighbouring families borrow what remains, 
 which they restore at the opening of their magazines. 
 
 The CaftVes can live in those parts of the country where 
 others cannot, because they seldom use water for drinking, 
 drinking only milk, when it is nearly sour; consequently, how- 
 ever bad the water may be, if their cattle will drink it, they 
 are satisfied. 
 
 Their houses are built in the shape of a dome, formed of 
 long sticks bent into that shape, thatched with straw, and 
 plastered in the inside with a mixture of clay and cow dung. 
 The entrance is low, seldom higher than two or three feet. 
 Having no chimney, the smoke proceeding from the fire, 
 
 3x2
 
 524 CAFIRARIA. 
 
 which is placed in the middle of the hut, must find its way 
 out the best way it can, through the roof or by the door. 
 
 CafFraria contains of quadrupeds, the wolf, lion, buffalo, 
 elk, large elephant, quacha, knoo, stag, hog, rhinoceros, 
 sea-cow, a variety of bucks, wild dogs, hedgehog, baboon, 
 and various other creatures, among which are the lizard, 
 and cameleon. Of the latter animal, it is commonly reported 
 that it changes colour according to the substance on which it 
 is placed. That it changes colour I have no doubt, having 
 myself seen it; but Dr. Vanderkemp, who particularly at- 
 tended to it, said, that he placed a cameleon on black, when 
 it turned almost black, like mud ; upon dark blue it turned 
 not so black as in the former case, but no blue colour was to 
 be seen ; upon white it assumed the colour of white ashes ; 
 upon green, a yellowish grey, with green spots; upon bright 
 red it remained white, with a yellow hue. He then placed 
 it in a dark box, expecting to find it black; but on opening 
 the box he found it white, and leaving the box open, it got 
 laige brown spots of a chocolate colour. These changes 
 take place in one, two, or three minutes; they affect not the 
 whole surface of the body from their commencement, but 
 spots are at first seen, commonly on the sides of the body, 
 below the neck on the shoulders, and the eyelids. The pro- 
 gress from one colour to the other is not uniform, but by in- 
 tervals, slower or more rapid, as it were by flushes. It is 
 not necessary to irritate the animal to make it change its 
 colour, for the change takes place even when it is asleep. 1 
 have a male and female cameleon, which 1 brought with me 
 in a glass-case to England; of course both dead, but in a 
 good state of preservation. The male is chiefly a grey 
 colour, intermixed with light green spots, and a considerable 
 part in the middle of the sides is light green. The female is 
 black, but appears as if sprinkled with white powder. 
 
 There is a great variety of birds in Caftraria, which I 
 cannot name, only the honey bird, which 1 have formerly 
 mentioned, has this peculiarity whicli I have not formerly 
 stated, that, when it is tamed, it will follow a person like 
 a dog.
 
 CAFFRARIA. 525 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 CAFFRE KING— GROSVENOR INDIAMAN— GIKA ASKS 
 RAIN— CAFFRE CHIEFS. 
 
 G£K A, the present king of the CafFres, is not the son of his 
 predecessor in government, Khauta,but the grandson of his un- 
 cle, Palo ; so that the government is not absolutely hereditary, 
 but according to the will of the reigning prince. Gika did 
 not obtain the regal pow^r without opposition ; for on the 
 death of Khauta, his uncle Tzlambi, under whose tuition he 
 had been brought up, could not think of submitting to the 
 government of his pupil, and resolved to oppose the swcess- 
 ion by force of arms. Tzlambi had several brothers, who 
 were men of great power, and who joined him in this rebel- 
 lion, as did also the sons of the deceased king. The Caflfres, 
 who at that time lived in what was anciently the Gonaqua 
 country, lying betwixt the Sunday and Great Fish 'rivers, 
 united with Tzlambi. Several battles were decided in favour 
 of Gika; at length the opposing chiefs agreed to attack Gika 
 from different directions on a certain day. Their reckoning 
 deceived them, for half the powers attacked a day before the 
 concerted time, and were completely overthrown; on which 
 Gika, following up the advantage he had obtained, attacked 
 his uncle Tzlambi, whom he defeated, and ruined his army. 
 He kept Tzlambi a prisoner for two years, when he released 
 him, and appointed him a captain, and he consults him in 
 all matters of importance ; at the same time he keeps him as 
 much as possible from possessing real power. Gika, though 
 he has a son, has appointed the youngest son of his pre- 
 decessor and benefactor to succeed him; and when this 
 young man, Hietwza, comes of age, Gika intends to raise him 
 to rule, foreseeing the confusion which that succession is 
 likely to occasion after his death. 
 
 The Caffre kings consider themselves men of great conse- 
 quence. Gika, speaking of the Landdrost of Graaf Reynet, 
 said. He is a chief machf I am a chief born. Gika's mother 
 is queen of tlie Tambookies, the next nation beyond the 
 Caffres, and through her he governs that people also. 
 
 The king has no income from the people, except the breast 
 of every ox or cow that is killed, which by them is con-
 
 526 CAFFRARIA. 
 
 sidered the most delicate part of the animal. When many of 
 the king's cattle happen to die, he goes to the Kraals of his 
 chiefs, and selects M'hat cattle he pleases — they allow him to 
 take them away, but they endeavour to steal them back as 
 soon as possible. 
 
 None of the people dare kill any of their cattle till they 
 first obtain a licence from their chief ; of course the slaugh- 
 ter must come to the knowledge of the king, and it is thereby 
 rendered more difficult to cheat him. On this account also 
 the Kraals are all glad to entertain a stranger, not so much 
 from love to the stranger, as themselves, that they may have 
 an opportunity of killing one of their cattle, which is always 
 permitted on such an occasion. 
 
 A boor, whom I met at one of our missionary stations, told 
 me, that he accompanied the Landdrost of Graaf Reynet 
 (who was I think Mr. Stockenstrom) into CafFraria, together 
 with many others, to enquire, at the request of the English 
 Government, whether any of the persons who were cast 
 ashore from the Grosvenor Indiaman, that was wrecked on 
 that coast, had survived. They found two ladies belonging 
 to the Grosvenor still alive, who had been forced to marry 
 CafFres, and had both children and grandchildren. ;j Being 
 attached to these, they refused to leave the country, though 
 Mr. S. oflfered to take them with him. They stated also as 
 a reason for refusing to return to England, that probably 
 their friends were either all dead, or so scattered they should 
 never be able to find them out; wherefore they preferred re- 
 maining where they were. Their bodies were painted, and 
 they were dressed like the Caflfre women. When the Land- 
 drost asked Gika, why the people had murdered those who 
 were driven ashore upon his coast, he said, they had no 
 business in his country, but should have kept in their own, 
 meaning the sea ; for the Caffres thought they had risen up 
 from the bottom of the sea, having seen the top mast first, 
 then gradually more and more till they beheld the hull, which 
 made them conclude they were natives of the water. When 
 Dr. Vanderkemp remonstrated with Gika, for having mur- 
 dered the people who were cast ashore from a ship that was 
 wrecked while he was there, he replied by saying. Why do 
 you kill wolves, they belong to this country, but not these 
 people. 
 
 Had the persons cast ashore from these vessels, who 
 escaped from the Caflfres, and attempted to reach the Cape 
 by travelling along the coast, after tw o or three days journey, 
 struck up the country, instead of keeping by the shore, they
 
 CAFFRARIA. 527 
 
 would soon have fallen in with Dutch farmers ; but by keep- 
 ing near the sea, they doubled the distance by following the 
 windings of the coast, and were likewise out of the way of 
 obtaining assistance, as the ground near the sea is barren, and 
 consequently uninhabited, though now, for the sake of cutting 
 timber, inhabitants may be found in the neighbourhood of 
 Plattenburgh's bay, and probably in one or two other places; 
 but should any ship afterwards be wrecked any where south or 
 south-west of the Great Fish river (to the north of which the 
 Caffres are now driven) it will be wise in those who reach the 
 land, instantly to strike up into the country, when they will 
 soon fall in with waggon tracks, by following which they will 
 arrive at the residence of white men. This is the more neces- 
 sary to be made known, as the number of ships sailing along 
 that part of the African coast must be greater, in conse- 
 quence of the trade to India being more open than in former 
 times ,• but 1 know of no harbour or refuge into which a ship 
 could enter. The mouth of the Buffalo river, though about 
 a quarter of a mile wide, appears to have a bar running 
 across it ; at any rate the entrance, if it has one, must be very 
 intricate, especially to a stranger ; and in a storm the most 
 eligible place, nearest to Caffraria, would be Algoa bay, 
 which might afford protection should the wind blow from 
 the S. or S.W. but none if it blew from the E. or N.E. 
 
 After a long drought, Gika sent to Tinkhana (which was 
 Dr. Vanderkemp's Caffre name) to procure rain; who very 
 properly answered, that he could not give rain, but would 
 pray to God for it. Abundance of rain soon fell. Gika, in 
 consequence, sent a present of some cattle to Tinkhana, for 
 having obtained rain ; who, however declined accepting of 
 them, but desired they should be returned to Gika. The 
 people when driving them back were met by a boor, who 
 enquired concerning the cattle they were driving. They said 
 Gika had sent them to Tinkhana, for having obtained rain, 
 but that he would not receive them. The boor told them it 
 was because Gika had sent too few for so great a favour, 
 (hat he should send a great many more, and Tinkhana would 
 receive them. It was afterwards reported that Gika sent 
 about twenty, which were intercepted and taken by this 
 boor. 
 
 Gika told the Landdrost of Graaf Reynet, when on a visit 
 to him, that Tinkhana could give rain. On the Landdrost 
 enquiring how he did it, Gika said he put his head into the 
 ground, and called upon some person below to send rain, and
 
 S^ CAFFRARIA. 
 
 rain came. Gika frequently sent afterwards to the doctor at 
 Bethelsdorp, to send rain to his country. 
 
 Mr. Read mentioned, that upon one occasion, while he 
 was conversing with Gika, two boys roasted some beef for 
 him ; one cut it into pieces when it was roasted, and the 
 other put it into his mouth. 
 
 When Messrs. Vanderkemp and Read visited Gika, he 
 took a fancy for an old dog belonging to one of their Hot- 
 tentots who accompanied them, for which he offered the 
 Hottentot a cow, to which he very readily consented. 
 Dr. Vanderkemp remarked to the king, that he was giving a 
 very extravagant price for the dog, as it was old and without 
 teeth. O, said Gika, I shall give him a cow without teeth also. 
 
 The Cafire chiefs may be considered as the nobility of that 
 country, such as those in Europe when the feudal system 
 prevailed. They are numerous, and possess considerable 
 power and influence, but are all subordinate to king Gika, 
 and probably were most of them raised to that rank by him 
 or his predecessors. 
 
 The only way the chiefs have of checking the king's 
 power is by withdrawing from his dominions, and carrying 
 their people along with them. As no king likes to be 
 without subjects, this practice has often led to an ac- 
 commodation. 
 
 Congo, a chief who formerly lived within the limits of the 
 colony, was the first to shake off the power of Gika, and be- 
 come an independent chief; but to the day of his death he, 
 in various ways, acknowledged a kind of dependence on him. 
 Cobus Congo, his son, must now be completely subject to 
 Gika, since he has been driven from the colony to the terri- 
 tory of Gika, by the English government. 
 
 Congo was sick in the time of the war with the colony. 
 For safety, his friends carried him from his Kraal to the 
 middle of a wood, very difficult of access, there being only a 
 very narrow path. A commando of boors discovered the 
 track, and came to the spot, where Congo, his son^ and a 
 few of his principal men, were all lying fast asleep. It is 
 reported that the commando did not awake them, but shot 
 them all dead while they were asleep. 
 
 Congo named one of his sons Tinkhana, after Dr. Van- 
 derkemp; he is now about ten years of age. The mother, 
 who was very fond of the doctor, is still proud of her son 
 bearing his name. 
 
 Yelloosa, another Caffre chief, followed the example of 
 CongOj threw off his dependence on Gika, and retired with
 
 CAFFRARIA. 5^§ 
 
 his people to the colony, from whence, after remaining a few 
 years, he returned and submitted to Gika. 
 
 Slamba, another chief, after having made various fruitless 
 attempts to obtain the sovereignty of CaftVaria, fled also to 
 the colony, followed by all his people, where he remained 
 eight or nine years : during which period he had various 
 skirmishes with Gika. He was considered the principal 
 chief, south of the Great Fish River, which was so populous 
 at that time, that Mr. Read once counted from the top of a 
 hill seventy or eighty Kraals, consisting of from twenty to 
 thirty houses ; and the valleys were cultivated, and so full of 
 gardens, and fields of Indian and Caflfre corn, that it had a 
 line and rich appeai'ance. Slamba however was driven by 
 Colonel Graham from the colony, in consequence of his 
 repeated depredations on the farmers. When driven over 
 the Great Fish River into the territories of Gika, it is said he 
 carried on a war with him for some time, but is now 
 reconciled. 
 
 Jan Chachoo, son of Chachoo, a CafFre chief under Gika, 
 has been eight or nine years at Bethelsdorp, and has learned 
 the Dutch language completely; can read, write, and cast 
 accounts ; he has wrought only about eight months at the 
 business of a carpenter, yet 1 have seen good chairs of his 
 workmanship. He intends returning to Cafi'raria as soon as 
 peace is restored, and a Missionary obtained to accompany 
 him; but without one he says he will not go. His behaviour 
 has been very exemplary, and he is esteemed by all at the 
 settlement. 
 
 When victuals is brought, the chiefs always eat first, 
 then the common people. The men never eat with the 
 women. The children eat with the mother. Those in 
 the higher ranks shew their superiority to others, by en- 
 trusting them with none of their secrets, or ever conver- 
 sing with them concerning what they consider matters of 
 moment. 
 
 A chief carries always in his hand the bushy part of a 
 lion's tail, which is the only badge that distinguishes him 
 from the others. When any thing at a distance requires the 
 captain's presence, and he cannot come, he sends a man with 
 this token, who then can act in the matter as the chief's 
 deputy. The chief likewise wears a plate of copper on his 
 breast. 
 
 Every chief has a council^ whom he cousults in all matters 
 of importance. 
 
 3 Y
 
 530 CAFFRARIA. 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 ORIGIN OF THE CAFFRE WAR WITH THE ENGLISH 
 
 I HAD the followinsx account of the origin of this war 
 from a respectable quarter, many particulars of which have 
 been corroborated by others. 
 
 A boor had taken a farm on the banks of the Great Fish 
 River, where there was a ford, across which the Caffres fre- 
 quently drove their cattle, some of which happened now and 
 then to go into his garden, which no doubt offended the 
 proprietor. To make the Caffres more careful, he began to 
 demand a part of the cattle which broke into his garden. 
 When there happened to be three, he demanded one cow or 
 ox ; when five, he required two, as a fine for the damage he 
 had sustained. The Caffres peaceably submitted to these 
 demands for some time. The farmer finding this to be a 
 lucrative concern, is said to have begun to assist the Caffre 
 cattle in getting into his garden, and then resolved to seize all 
 he found there. The first seizure after coming to this reso- 
 lution happened to be a considerable number. The Caffre 
 complained to his chief, who instantly ordered his own cattle 
 to be driven across the Fish River at the farmer's ford, w hen 
 they all went into the boor's trap, or garden ; when, like the 
 others, they were detained by the boor. No sooner had the 
 Caffre chief heard of what had happened, than he went with 
 an armed force to visit the boor. On his arrival, he not only 
 demanded the restoration of his own cattle, but also carried 
 off all the boor's. 
 
 The other Caffres who had lost cattle by this boor, having 
 such an example set them by their chief, determined to make 
 up their losses in a similar way, by carrying off cattle from 
 other boors, though they had not offended them. In this 
 way, a thieving, plundering disposition became general among 
 them, which afterwards made it appear necessary to the go- 
 vernment to drive all the Caffres beyond the Great Fish River, 
 which has been effected. But notwithstanding the number 
 and vigilance of the military posts opposite to CaftVaria, 
 parties of the Caffres have still the audacity to penetrate many 
 miles into the colony, and carry off great numbers of cattle 
 from the boors.
 
 CAFFRARIA. 531 
 
 In these plundering expeditions the Caflfres never travel on 
 the roads, but through the woods; where, in consequence of 
 the multiplicity of obstacles, no European soldiers can come 
 up with them ; but the Hottentots shewing themselves to be 
 as nimble travellers through the woods and bushes, govern- 
 ment have chiefly employed the Hottentot regiment in op- 
 posing the CafFres. 
 
 Sometime after the commencement of the CafFre war, one 
 of the chiefs desired a conference with the British Com- 
 mander, who agreed to meet him in a plain, accompanied by 
 a certain number of his men, and the Caffrc to bring the 
 like number. The chief asked, to whom that country be- 
 longed so many years ago ? A Dutch boor mentioned a 
 person to whom it had belonged. " O," said the Caffre, 
 " I remember him, but it belonged to us before his time." 
 Be that as it might, said the Officer, he and his people 
 must remove beyond the Great Fish River, and lie recom- 
 mended their doing it in a peaceable manner. They de- 
 sired time to cut down their corn, but this could not be 
 granted; but it was promised that it should be cut down and 
 sent after them. The Commander observing the Cafifres 
 increasing in number around, and laying hold of their assa- 
 gays, thought it prudent to fall back on his main body. So 
 long as the corn remained on the ground, it was a constant 
 bone of contention ; wherefore orders were given that all 
 the growing corn, tobacco, &.c. should be destroyed, which 
 was accordingly done ; since which they have not crossed the 
 Fish River in such numbers as formerly; but that river is 
 found a poor boundary, being sometimes compleatly dry. 
 There is said to be a large and deep river about twenty days 
 journey beyond it, whidi some recommend driving them 
 beyond; else, say they, the war must be perpetual. On 
 receiving such orders, king Gika might say, as a Canadian 
 chief did on being ordered with his people to remove higher 
 up the country, to make way for fresh settlers from Europe — 
 *' Were we not born here ? are not the bones of our fore- 
 fathers interred here ? and can we say to ihem, Arise and go 
 with us to a foreign land r" But I doubt much the exis- 
 tence of such a river, for having afterwards travelled far 
 higher up on the west side of the CaftVe land, I did not meet 
 with one river or stream running towards Caffraria, but all 
 running towards the opposite side of the Continent. Should 
 it only rise among those mountains which bound Caflfrariaon 
 tlie westward, it is not likely to be both wide and deep. 
 The Caffres, being divided into many tribes, each of which 
 . 3 Y 2
 
 532 CAFFRARIA. 
 
 has a chief, have often wars or fightings among themselves ; 
 but they are never bloody, perhaps not more than one or two 
 men are killed during a war. They prefer stealing each 
 other's cattle, destroying fields, gardens, 8lc. to killing. 
 
 Most of their civil Mars arise from disputes about their 
 women, cattle, and ground. Every chief has a particular 
 district which he considers his own, or belonging to his 
 Kraal; others encroaching upon this occasions a war, if the 
 intruder insists on retaining it. When one chief steals 
 cattle from another, if he who has sustained the loss be 
 not satisfied with the offered redress, they resort to arms. 
 
 They take prisoners in war, but only of the higher rank, 
 the rest are killed. The chief keeps his prisoners in close 
 confinement, till they promise to be faithful subjects to him, 
 when they are set at liberty. 
 
 When they march to war, each chief accompanies his 
 people, who march in disorder; but on arriving at the field 
 of battle, they form into a line, and first endeavour to in- 
 timidate the enemy by howling in a terrific manner, and then 
 by threatening to cut them to pieces. 
 
 Every child is supposed to be born a soldier ; wherefore 
 all serve freely when called upon by the chief, and every one 
 learns the art of war, or to use the assagay. When they ob- 
 tain a victory, they are rewarded by the chief, and such as are 
 wounded are kindly treated. 
 
 The CafFres are much afraid of muskets, and when they 
 take any from the boors, they generally break them to 
 pieces for the brass upon them, of which metal they are 
 very fond. 
 
 Our Hottentots, who had lived some time in CafFraria, 
 mentioned to me a battle between two CafFre tribes, the one 
 under Congo's father, Chacca, the other under Cobella, 
 which Chacca surrounded, when all the prisoners were either 
 compelled to drown themselves in the sea, or were murdered 
 on the beach ; about eight or ten only escaped, and fled to the 
 colony — of those a father, a cousin, and three uncles of one 
 who travelled with me, and their wives, composed that 
 number. One of these women during this flight, was preg- 
 nant with a son who is now at Bethelsdorp, to whom the 
 parents gave a name expressive of their circumstances at 
 that time, as a time of trouble; indeed it is customary with 
 the Caffres, like the ancient patriarchs, to give significant 
 names to their posterity.
 
 CAFFRARIA. 53L 
 
 I heard of a boor, at present in the colony, who had 
 lived a long time in Caflfraria, where he married both a 
 CafFre and a Hottentot. On the English capturing the 
 Cape, he returned to the colony, bringing along with him his 
 two wives, and a Mambookis girl, from the second nation 
 beyond the CafFres. This girl he caused to be well edu- 
 cated, when he discarded his Hottentot and Caffre wives, 
 and married her. 
 
 Another boor, who was in CafFraria when Dr. Vanderkemp 
 was there, on seeing his printing press, enquired what it was. 
 When the Doctor had described the nature and use of it, the 
 sagacious boor requested him to print for him by the morrow 
 a large folio bible with plates. This same boor was given 
 to haste ; for not being able in a short time to cure a sore 
 finger which his daughter had, he cut it off, saying she was 
 better without it.
 
 No. II. 
 
 HISTORY OF AFRICANER, A PLUNDERING 
 CHIEF ON THE GREAT RIVER. 
 
 AS this man, b)' his murders and depredations, is become 
 the terror of a considerable part of South Africa, and is con- 
 sequently spoken of and feared far and near, I endeavoured 
 to obtain as much information concerning him as I could, 
 but notwithstandmg his fame, or rather infamy, I could not 
 procure much. 
 
 He was originally a Hottentot, belonging to the colony, 
 and was a considerable time in the service of a boor, in the 
 Drosdy of Tulbach, named Piet Piemaar ; part of this 
 time was employed in attending to the boor's cattle, which, 
 for the sake of pasture, were sent at certain seasons to the 
 vicinity of the Great River. Afterwards he, and his sons 
 Jager and Titus, lived with Piemaar at Elephants River. 
 This was about the time that the Cape first came into the 
 hands of the English, when u report was industriously cir- 
 culated by evil minded persons, that all the Hottentots were 
 to be forced into the army, with the design of sending them 
 out of Africa. This report made Africaner and his sons to 
 resolve to live out of the colony altogether, or near its limits, 
 to escape being forced into the army. 
 
 They continued in the service of Piemaar, who sometimes 
 sent them on Commandoes, or plundering expeditions, 
 against the defenceless natives of the interior, furnishing them 
 with muskets and powder for that purpose. In this way they 
 were taught to rob for their master, Mhich ultimately led to 
 their setting up for themselves. 
 
 Suspicions, from some circumstances, rose in the minds 
 of Africaner and his sons, that their employer acted un- 
 faithfully to their wives during their absence ; and his send- 
 ing them more frequently from home confirmed their sus-
 
 HISTORY OF AFRICANER. 535 
 
 picions; they refused, therefore, to go any more on such 
 expeditions. Information having come to Piemaar, that the 
 Bushmen had carried off some cattle from a boor belonging 
 to the district over which he was Field Cornet, he, in his 
 official character, commanded them to pursue the Bushmen, 
 in order to recapture the cattle. This order they positively 
 refused to obey, alledging that his only motive for sending 
 them on such an expedition was, that they might be 
 murdered, and he might thereby get possession of their 
 wives. 
 
 For resisting his order, Piemaar proceeded to flog Jager 
 who seized his gun, which was loaded with small shot, the 
 contents of which he lodged in his master's body. A scuffle 
 ensued, in which the sons of Africaner shot, not only 
 Piemaar iiimself dead, but also his wife and child. Some 
 say that this atrocious deed was contrary to the wishes and 
 expostulations of the father ; but others assert he was ac- 
 cessary to it. All however fled immediately over the Great 
 river, to North Namacqualand. Having settled themselves 
 in that country for some time, the sons of Africaner, having 
 muskets and powder, which they had carried off" from their 
 murdered master, resolved upon an expedition against some 
 part of the colony, to attack some boor's place by surprise. 
 In this expedition they murdered a boor of the name of 
 Engelbrecht, and likewise a bastard Hottentot, from whom 
 they carried oft' much cattle. 
 
 Immediately on the Missionaries arriving at Warm Bath, 
 in North, or Great Namacqua country, Africaner, with his 
 family, came and took up his residence near them, and for 
 some time behaved in an orderly and peaceable manner ; 
 but a circumstance occurred which led to the ruin of the 
 settlement there. 
 
 Jager and Titus, as they dared not to visit Cape-town 
 themselves, after the murders they had perpetrated, em- 
 ployed a Hottentot, named Hans Driver, to take three 
 span, or seis, of oxen thither; with two span of these he 
 was desired to purchase a waggon for them, and with the 
 third to bring the waggon home. On the way to Cape-town, 
 Hans met a boor to whom he was in debt, for which the 
 boor seized the whole of the oxen ; upon which Hans returned 
 to Namacqua, and refused to give any account of the oxen. 
 This conduct of Hans so exasperated the sons of Africaner, that 
 they attacked his Kraal, and murdered him. Not long after 
 this occurrence, the friends of Hans, with the assistance of 
 some Namacquaa?, in their turn attacked the Kraal of Afri-
 
 536 HISTORY OF AFRICANER. 
 
 -« 
 
 caner. Africaner, to be revenged on the Namacquaas for 
 aiding the friends of Hans against him, fell upon their Kraal. 
 These finding themselves too weak to resist him, implored 
 assistance from the Namacquaas at Warm Bath ; who, com- 
 plying with their request, sent out a large armed party to 
 defend them ; which so enraged Africaner, that he threatened 
 destruction to the settlement at Warm Bath. He accom- 
 plished his threat in part, for he came against them, and 
 carried off a great number of their cattle. A numerous party 
 of the Namacquaas pursued him to his Kraal, where they 
 carried on a kind of war, shooting at each other from behind 
 bushes, none of them possessing sufficient courage to meet in 
 the open field. However, the Namacquaas at length devised 
 a prudent scheme for regaining their cattle, by taking pos- 
 session of their watering place. In spite of Africaner's 
 people, the cattle, when thirsty, made their way to the water, 
 and were carried oflF in triumph by the Namacquaas. 
 
 Africaner, renewing his threatenings against the Namac- 
 quaas at Warm Bath, so intimidated them, that they, with 
 the Missionaries, removed over the Great River, to the 
 place where they now are, in Little, or South Namacqua 
 land. 
 
 By incursions into the colony, and robbing the boors, not 
 only of cattle, but of their muskets and powder, Africaner 
 has become very powerful. He has been joined by a 
 runaway boor, by some Bushmen, and persons from other 
 tribes ; and should he proceed without receiving some check, 
 his family may soon become a very formidable enemy to the 
 colony.
 
 No. III. 
 
 ACCOUNT OF STEPHANAS, AN IMPOSTOR. 
 
 HE was an European, and, as to religion, very probably a 
 Roman Catholic. The ship in which he sailed from Europe 
 was stranded near the Cape ; where, after getting on shore, 
 he remained for some time in very distressing circumstances, 
 which, he afterwards said, urged him on to the commission 
 of forgery; for which crime he was arrested, and committed 
 to prison. On the very first day of his imprisonment, he 
 began to devise means for effecting his escape. He cut a 
 large hole in the door of the prison, by means of which he 
 regained his liberty, and fled to the Roggefeld, a district in 
 the interior of the colony, where he remained quietly for some 
 time, working as a mason ; but hearing that search was 
 making for him, he fled higher up the country to a Mission- 
 ary settlement then at Zak river, where he offered his ser- 
 vices as a mason to Mr. Kicherer, who superintended the 
 Mission. They were very acceptable at that time ; being 
 about to erect a place of worship, and knowing nothing of 
 his character, they readily took him into their employ. 
 
 Only a short time after the building was begun, in- 
 formation from Cape-town, through the newspaper, reached 
 the settlement, that a person accused of forgery had escaped 
 from prison; and from the description given of his person, 
 Stephanas appeared to be the man. Having, by some 
 means, learned that such information had been received, 
 or perhaps discovering by their conduct that he was sus- 
 pectedj he hastily decamped, and fled across the Bushman's 
 country beyond the Great River, carrying with him a bible, 
 which he had stolen from the Missionaries. 
 
 On arriving among the Griquaas, he gave himself out to 
 be a Missionary, sent from Zak river to instruct them. He 
 endeavoured to make them believe that he had been brought 
 across the Bushman country in a miraculous manner, having 
 neither gun, nor sword, nor spear ; which indeed appeared 
 to them very marvellous, and made on them a strong im- 
 pression in his favour. They all listened to his instructions 
 
 3 z
 
 538 HISTORY OF STEPHANAS. 
 
 with attention. The pious people now at Griqua town say, 
 that he spoke much about Jesus Christ, and him crucified; 
 which indeed many Roman Catholics do more than some 
 Protestants. His zeal appeared to be fervent, and consider- 
 able impression was made upon the poor Griquaas. They 
 not only sighed and wept when hearing him, but many, who 
 had been accustomed to have a plurality of wives, deter- 
 mined to live according to the rules he produced from the 
 Scriptures. 
 
 Such effects following his exertions, disposed him to think 
 highly of himself, and to make the people believe he was at 
 the head of all Missionaries. He appears to have learnt by 
 rote what he heard from Mr. Kicherer, and to have repeated 
 it without judgment. His fame was of short duration among 
 the most discerning, by his paying too much attention to 
 dreams, visions, and voices, that some of the people pre- 
 tended to have had, which was contrary to the instructions he 
 had given in the early part of his career. One of these 
 dreamers, who was probably in league with Stephanas, pre- 
 tended that God had given an order that a grand Church 
 should without delay be erected. This imposition obtaining 
 general credit, men, women, and children, went to work with 
 alacrity and zeal ; and in a short time a spacious building 
 was nearly finished, the walls of which are still standing, 
 which I passed when travelling across the continent to Na- 
 macqua land. Little more than a roof is wanting to complete 
 the building. 
 
 The Griquaas say he endeavoured particularly to explain 
 the Bible to them ; and frequently directed their attention to 
 its most striking parts — such as the death, resurrection, and 
 ascension of Jesus Christ, &c. 
 
 After a time, Stephanas began to sanction the having two 
 wives, like the heathens around, and afterwards he set the 
 example by taking two himself. This also being opposite 
 to his first instruction, caused many of his followers to with- 
 draw from him. 
 
 About this time, he wrote an account of his proceedings to 
 Mr. Kicherer, who, finding that he was deceiving the people, 
 and propagating many pernicious and destructive principles, 
 insisted upon his leaving them ; which he did, and wandered 
 backward and forward for some time in the vicinity of the 
 Great River. He afterwards travelled into the Namacqua 
 country, where he was murdered; but on what account we 
 could not ascertain, uor any of the circumstances that at- 
 tended his death.
 
 No. IV. 
 
 ACCOUNT OF JOHN BLOOM, AN AFRICAN 
 ROBBER. 
 
 HIS father was an European, of the same name : nothing 
 more is known of him, but that he lived successively in four 
 different parts of the colony. 
 
 His son John left the colony with the same Piet Piemaar 
 who was afterwards murdered by the sons of Africaner. 
 His object in leaving the colony was only to attend some 
 cattle belonging to Piemaar, on the Great River. Some time 
 after removing thither, hearing of the multitude of cattle 
 possessed by Bootchuanas and Corannas, and the defenceless 
 state of these people, he resolved to make an attack upon 
 them, in order to carry off their cattle, and so become rich 
 by a single expedition. By some means or other he prevail- 
 ed on many Hottentots to accompany him on this plundering 
 expedition. He and his people killed many of the poor in- 
 habitants, against whom they went, and captured a great 
 number of their cattle; indeed, the number was so great that 
 more than a thousand are said to have fallen to the share of 
 Piemaar, which no doubt was the largest. 
 
 When Piemaar transported his ill-gotten property to the 
 colony, John Bloom remained behind, and took several 
 wives from am(mg the Corannas ; he also continued to 
 make plundering excursions against that people. His first 
 attempt was attended with a shocking event, for, besides those 
 who fell by means of his fire arms, which greatly terrified the 
 Corannas, many of the defenceless women and children ran 
 for refuge from their murderers into the Great River, where 
 they perished. 
 
 He afterwards went higher up the river, and took up 
 his residence near the mouth of the Malalareen. There 
 he commenced his ravages by attacking the Bootchuanas, 
 many of whom were slain, and much cattle taken. 
 
 3 z 2
 
 540 HISTORY OF JOHN BLOOM. 
 
 He found means to prevail upon many Corannas and 
 Bushmen to join his standard, which probably they did to 
 preserve their own lives. He received much assistance from 
 Jacob and Kaanel Krieger, two boors who had fled from the 
 colony for some crime of which they had been guilty. 
 These supplied him with additional muskets, ammuni- 
 tion, and people, and shared in the plunder which he 
 obtained. 
 
 His next expedition was against the Wanketzens, a tribe 
 of Bootchuanas, who had hitherto remained unmolested; 
 but here a check was put to his iniquitous career, for he 
 was repulsed, and soon after died in consequence of drinking 
 from a fountain, the water of which was supposed to be 
 poisoned by the Wanketzens. When dying he apprehended 
 that he had been poisoned. 
 
 It is said that the Wanketzens manifested considerable 
 military skill and courage in the resistance they made against 
 the attacks of Bloom. They are said to have raised high 
 walls across the passes between the iiiountains, leaving small 
 openings in them, like gates, which could easily be closed 
 up at the approach of an enemy. Many lay in ambush ; 
 while others were stationed on the tops of the mountains, 
 who rolled down great stones upon their assailants. It is 
 not known that he captured a single beast from the Wanket- 
 zens, while he took thousands from the Matchappees and 
 Corannas. 
 
 John could neither read nor write ; and such is the deceit- 
 fulness and wickedness of the human heart, that, notwith- 
 standing all his barbarities, he pretended some respect for 
 religion. However, hardened as he was, his conscience was 
 considerably roused on his dying bed, and he expressed great 
 dread of eternal vengeance.
 
 No. V. 
 
 ISLAND OF MADAGASCAR. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 SITUATION— EXTENT— PRODUCTIONS— CHARACTER OF 
 THE NATIVES. 
 
 BEING desired by the Directors of the Missionary 
 Society, before I left England, to send a mission to the large 
 island of Madagascar, during my residence in South Africa, 
 if I found it practicable, I endeavoured of course to obtain 
 all the information I could respecting it. Mr Milne, Mis- 
 sionary to the Chinese Empire, on his way thither, touching 
 at the Cape of Good Hope, I requested him on his arrival 
 at the Isle of France, to procure all the information he 
 could respecting Madagascar, in that adjoining island. 
 From the papers respecting it which I received from him, 
 duplicates of which were transmitted to the Society, it ap- 
 pears that he acted with much judgment and industry in ful- 
 filling my request. To his papers, chiefly, I am indebted 
 for the following account: 
 
 Madagascar is an African island, distant only about forty 
 leagues from the eastern shore of the Continent; situated in 
 the Indian Ocean, extending from north to south upward 
 of eight hundred miles. It is called by the natives Madacasc, 
 or Madecassa; by the Portuguese, who discovered it, 
 St. Lawrence ; by the French, L' Isle Dauphin ; and by the 
 Persians, Arabians, &c. Serandib. 
 
 The island is reported to be divided into twenty eight 
 provinces, the chief of which is the valley of Amboul, lying 
 at the south end of it, which is watered by three great rivers, 
 and covered with wood adapted to the construction of 
 houses, &c. The district is also fertilized by many small 
 streams : it is governed by twelve chiefs, and supposed to 
 contain about fifteen thousand persons, and is considered by
 
 5i2 ISLAND OF MADAGASCAR. 
 
 some the most suitable place for a colony ; while others pre- 
 fer the country adjoining St. Augustine Bay. On the coast, 
 about Fort Dauphin, it is rendered unhealthy by the great 
 quantity of sea weed driven upon it by certain currents, 
 which being corrupted by an almost vertical sun in summer, 
 sends forth contagious effluvia. 
 
 The island is said to contain two hundred millions of 
 acres of arable ground, celebrated for its fertility, and the 
 variety of its productions. The rivers are plentifully stocked 
 with fish ; the mountains are very numerous, some of them 
 rise to the height of 1800 fathoms above the level of the 
 sea, are covered with wood, and many are inaccessible ; but 
 the vallies are fertile, and covered with cattle. 
 
 Madagascar produces six different sorts of rice, and no 
 fewer than ten different kinds of yams ; likewise the banana, 
 which is considered and called by the natives, the fig tree of 
 Adam. Near Foul Point, on the east coast, are found po- 
 tatoes, four kinds of turnips, beans, peas, and poultry. 
 There are mines of iron and steel, and it is reported by some 
 that there are also mines of gold, silver, and copper. It is 
 not improbable that the iron which I saw at the city of 
 Lattakoo, comes from Madagascar; for it is nearly opposite 
 the south end of it, about three or four hundred miles 
 from the coast, to which it may be brought, and bar- 
 tered from nation to nation till it reaches the country of the 
 Bootchuanas. At Amigonal bay, four different kinds of 
 silk worms were found by Abbe Rochon when he visited it; 
 likewise amber, wax, honey, and tine wool. Flax, indigo, 
 sugar, pepper, and tobacco, it is thought, would grow well 
 there. The northern is considered the most fertile part ; in 
 a good season the fields will yield an hundred fold. 
 
 This island, says Abbe Rochon, affords a large field for 
 the botanist; so rnuch so that one could scarcely study, in the 
 course of a long life, the natural history of its vegetation. 
 
 There are snakes on the island, but they are not very 
 dangerous. Crocodiles abound in the rivers, whose appear- 
 ance strikes terror into the most intrepid of the inhabitants, 
 and great caution is necessary in walking near the rivers. 
 They have been seen to drag away and devour even a bullock. 
 
 The contiguity of Madagascar to the coast of Africa 
 makes it natural to ascribe its population to that vast conti- 
 nent; but the different races of inhabitants are now so much 
 confounded, as to render it impossible to enumerate them. 
 The race of the real negro is easily distinguished there. 
 Some white inhabitants pretend to be descended from
 
 ISLAND OF MADAGASCAR. 543 
 
 Imina, the msther of Mahomed — others trace their origin 
 to ihe Jews. There is a race of whites, who affirm that 
 they were sent thither by the Caliph of Mecca, to instruct 
 the natives in the MahomeHan faith. 
 
 Before the Europeans first landed on the island, the 
 natives had a tradition that they would be conquered by 
 the children of the sun ; and the French, when they arrived 
 there to form a settlement, were taken for these children of 
 the sun ; the people therefore readily yielded to them. 
 Persons are also found there who are supposed to have 
 come from the Persian and Arabian gulfs, and from 
 Egypt. 
 
 The people are in general well shaped, and above the 
 middle size, of various colours, deep black, tawny, copper, 
 but chiefly of an olive colour. Their physiognomy in 
 general bears marks of a character replete with frankness. 
 
 They are not considered a savage people; they do not eat 
 human flesh, nor are murders frequent among them, except 
 in time of war. They are not devoid of intellect, as 
 Mr. Bartlet, our Missionary at Bethelsdorp, found, when he 
 had the tuition of about twenty of them at the Cape of Good 
 Hope. They could read English, and answer questions from 
 a catechism with tolerable facility. 
 
 Sevei'al instances of shipwreck on their coasts are known, 
 but not one in which the people have been ill treated. 
 The late Mr. Oncruydt, President of the Burgher Senate at 
 Cape-town, mentioned to me one instance, which came 
 under his own review when he w as supercargo of a Dutch 
 East Indiaman. They sailed to Tulier, or Tellear, in 
 Augustine bay, on the east side of the south end of the 
 island, where a French ship had been stranded upwards of 
 twelve months before their arrival. The Captain^ officers, 
 and men had resided all that time with the natives; on 
 seeing the Dutch ship arrive at the mouth of the river 
 Manchard, (which probably is the same river as that named 
 Dartemont in Arrowsmith's map) the Captain and the crew 
 came ofif to her, and solicited a passage to the Cape, to 
 which Mr. Oncruydt and his Captain consented. They 
 found that these shipwrecked mariners had lived in perfect 
 safety, and had been treated with hospitality during the 
 whole time of their residence there. The only thing they 
 were in want of was clothes, with which Mr. Oncruydt 
 supplied them; after which he and some of his people 
 went ashore with them, on a visit to the king of that part of 
 Madagascar,
 
 544. ISLAND OF MADAGASCAR. 
 
 They soon arrived at a considerable town, where an 
 officer, called the second king, resided; by him they were 
 well received, and sent off with a number of attendants to 
 Ramacca the first king. They came to a broad and rapid 
 river, but there being neither bridge nor any boat, they 
 looked at one another, wondering how they should get 
 across, together with two chests which they brought, full of 
 presents to the king. Six men took up one of these chests, 
 and went with it into the water, three on one side and three 
 on the other, supporting it above the water, by each apply- 
 ing one of his hands to it ; in this way they carried it over 
 perfectly dry. In the same way they carried over the other 
 chest, and all the Dutch and French officers and sailors who 
 were in the company. 
 
 One of the sailors, not choosing to be carried over in the 
 above awkward way, stripped off his clothes, and tying them 
 about his head, jumped into the water, and swam towards 
 the other side ; but when he came to the middle of the 
 river, the current was too strong for him, so that he was 
 carried down before it, and certainly would have been 
 drowned, had not some of the natives hastened to his 
 assistance. Soon after crossing the river, they arrived at the 
 town where the king resided, which was considerably larger 
 than that which they had seen before. When introduced to 
 the king, he was surprised to find all the Frenchmen well 
 clothed ; but when he found, on enquiry, that they had receiv- 
 ed these clothes from the Dutch, who, he knew, were a 
 different nation from the French, he was still more as- 
 tonished, and called to his attendants, who stood in a row 
 behind, saying, " Mark this: these do not belong to the 
 same nation with the French, yet you see they give them 
 clothes ; learn to do so too." A house and attendants were 
 provided for them all by the king, where they lived very 
 comfortably for five months. 
 
 On another occasion, when Mr. Oncruydt was with the se- 
 cond king alone, while view h>g from his window a great storm 
 at sea, he said to Mr Oncruydt, " I have heard from my grand- 
 father, and from my uncle, that all these things were made," 
 pointing to the sea, &c. '* did you ever hear of that?" 
 *' Made," said Mr. O. *' do you mean that the sea made 
 itself?" " No, no, (said he) I do not mean that': 1 mean 
 made by its Maker." " O yes," said Mr. O. " all white 
 people know that." *^ 1 have told you," replied the second 
 king, " who it was that told me, now tell me how you know 
 it." On which Mr. Oncruydt told him about the Bible.
 
 ISLAND OF MADAGASCAR. 545 
 
 There is a race of men in the neighbourhood of Fort 
 Dauphin, and in other parts of the western coast, descended 
 from some Arabs, who were sln'pwrecked. They say they 
 are not original inhabitants, but cliildren of the sea; because 
 it threw out their fathers on the island. They write the 
 Madagascar language in the Arabic character, and claim an 
 exclusive right to kill the bullocks ; but those who eat swine's 
 flesh lose this right. 
 
 It is reported that a race of dwarfs, called Kimosses, dwell 
 in the interior of Madagascar — that the medium size of the 
 men is about three feet live inches; that they wear long 
 beards ; and that the women are some inches shorter than the 
 men. These people are said to surpass the rest of the 
 Madagascars in point of intellectual abilities. At the Isle 
 of France the existence of these people is called in question 
 by the well informed, and treated as a mere fiction. 
 
 In so extensive an island as Madagascar, there must be a 
 variety of climates,* the interior is by all considered the most 
 healthy, and the southern part more healthy than the northern, 
 probably because further removed from the equator. In the 
 months of January, February, and March, which are the 
 most unhealthy seasons, a kind of intermitting fever fre- 
 quently prevails. Behind the town of Tumetave, on the 
 east coast, there is a vast morass, from whence unhealthy 
 vapours proceed, which contaminate the air. The heats in 
 the northern parts, at some seasons of the year, must be 
 very great, which, from the fumes arising from stagnated 
 water, and decayed vegetation, must render the climate 
 unhealthy, at least at first, to European constitutions. How- 
 ever it is probable that the vast mountains, and the many 
 rivers and streams, must render the heat more tolerable, and 
 the air more healthy. 
 
 There is no doubt that the French garrison almost all 
 died at Fort Dauphin; and that once they were massacred 
 and driven out: but perhaps neither is the former to be 
 wholly attributed to the climate, nor the latter entirely to 
 the savage disposition of the people. Two reasons are 
 stated by Abbe Rochon, which seem fully to authorise this 
 supposition. 
 
 First. The disingenuous conduct of the French towards 
 the natives, and also to a Mr. La Case, a Frenchman, 
 who found himself neglected by the Governor of Fort 
 Dauphin, notwithstanding the signal services he had render- 
 ed to the French government. He retired into the province 
 
 4 A
 
 5l6 ISLAND OF MADAGASCAR. 
 
 of Amboul, and married the daughter of the principal chief. 
 Five more Frenchmen joined liim, and though he had not 
 attempted any reven2;e on his countrymen, yet, when a price 
 was set on his head by the French Governor, all the chiefs 
 were highly enraged at seeing a plan formed ajrainst the life 
 of a man whom they so highly venerated; and unanimously 
 agreed not to afford any supply of cattle, rice, &c. to the 
 French; in consequence of which a famine ensued, which 
 reduced the settlers to a small number. 
 
 Second. The imprudent conduct of father Stephen, a 
 Catholic Missionary of the order of St. Lazar. This man, 
 either not knowing, or rather having forgotten the words of 
 Paul, " The weapons of our warfare are not carnal," carried 
 the bloody banners of war, and was determined to convert 
 the people by the sword ! — the old Roman method. Being 
 well received by a powerful chief, who had a numerous 
 seraglio, he thought it would be easy to convert him ; but 
 instead of waiting for the effect of sound scriptural argument, 
 he commanded the chief to put away all his women except 
 one: and threatened, not the displeasure of God, but to bring 
 the French arms against him if this order was not instantly 
 obeyed, and that they would deprive him by force of his 
 seraglio. The chief, instead of instantly putting him to 
 death for his insolence, as might have been expected, begged 
 fifteen days to consider the matter, during which time he 
 privately withdrew with all his women. The Missionary 
 followed him, accompanied by another brother of the same 
 order, and six Frenchmen, all loaded with sacerdotal habits, 
 and the authority of the bloody church with which they were 
 connected. 
 
 It was told Stephen, when he overtook the chief, how 
 vain his attempts at conversion would be. He made no 
 reply to this, but tore, with consecrated hands, from the 
 chief, all his amulets, threw them into the fire, and declared 
 war ! Is it w onderful, that such an attempt to inforce 
 Christianity was followed by the instant death of the Mis- 
 sionary, and all his companions? By order of the chief they 
 were all killed on the spot; and he swore the utter destruc- 
 tion of the French. 
 
 It is also a fact, that a considerable number of the 
 English soldiers died, who went to take possession of a 
 fort at Tametave, after the capture of the Isle of France ; 
 but they went at the worst season of the year, when the 
 utmost danger was to be expected in that part of the 
 island.
 
 ISLAND OF MADAGASCAR. 547 
 
 It is impossible accurately to ascertain the population of a 
 country divided into so many different tribes. Abbe Rochon, 
 in the year 1770, estimated the population at about four 
 millions — Rondaux thinks they are about three millions. If 
 these estimates were any thing near the amount upwards 
 of forty years ago, it is supposed that the population is now 
 much greater. 
 
 As for the state of arts there, they work iron, and make 
 various useful articles of it. They manufacture also a strong 
 kind of cloth from the second bark of a tree, which is cer- 
 tainly an ingenious device. Mr. Milne soit a few yards of it 
 to the Society, from the Mauritius. Of this cloth they 
 make a wide garment, resembling our corn sacks, cutting 
 two holes at the bottom, through which they pass their feet. 
 The w^omen weave very beautiful baskets, or pognas, as they 
 call them, from the filaments of the leaf of the raven plant. 
 They also sow a great deal of rice, not only for their own 
 consumption, but as an article of trade. They bring it down 
 to the shore in bags, which are wrought either of grass, or 
 the inner bark of trees. They abound in wood, which they 
 cut down with hatchets, and make houses, canoes, 8vC. They 
 also make pottery articles in a masterly manner. 
 
 It does not however appear that the arts have made much 
 progress in Madagascar; nor indeed could it be expected, 
 since the object of all who have hitherto traded with 
 them has not been to do them any real good, but only 
 to obtain their rice, oxen, and slaves, or to become their 
 masters. 
 
 In the southern parts, almost every village stands on an 
 eminence, surrounded w'ith a double row of palisades; with- 
 in which is a parapet of compressed earth, about four feet 
 high ; and large bamboos, driven into the ground, at the 
 distance of five feet from each other, form a kind of fortifi- 
 cation. The dwelling of the chief is called the Donac, 
 which comprises three or four large houses, enclosed by a 
 particular fence. Slaves guard the Donac, night and day. 
 Horns of the bullocks slain in sacrifices, are sometimes hung 
 round the dvvellings of the chief. Their towns have not re- 
 gular streets ; their houses are built of limber, and covered 
 with the leaves of trees. They have neither locks nor bolts : 
 they live in a frugal manner. Though they have not gene- 
 rally regular hours for their meals, yet it is not uncommon to 
 see them dine at ten in the morning, and sup at four in the 
 afternoon. Their food consists of excellent white rice, well 
 boiled, over which they pour broth of meat, or flesh, season- 
 
 4a 2
 
 548 ISLAND OF MADAGASCAR. 
 
 ed with saffron, ginger, 8cc. These plain messes are served 
 on the leaves of the Raven, which answers for spoons, 
 plates, 8cc. They have only two ways of preparing their 
 food; boiling in clay pots, or roasting on the coals. 
 
 At Foul Point they put into their broth some leaves of the 
 Ravensara, and a little sea water, salt being almost unknown 
 to them. In the interior they use, instead of sea water, 
 leaves of a tree, which is called the salt tree. They drink 
 not after meals, except sometimes water boiled with rice, 
 which precaution is necessary in a country where the water 
 is not good. Their houses are kept clean, and some of 
 their towns are supposed to contain twenty five thousand 
 inhabitants. 
 
 Their government consists of a chief to each tribe, who is 
 sometimes elective, but generally hereditary. Plach tribe 
 possesses the place it likes best, which must frequently oc- 
 casion broils. In some parts, the chief always carries his 
 gun, and a stick tipped with iron, the end of which is orna- 
 mented with cow's hair. The principal ornament which 
 distinguishes the chiefs from their subjects, is a cap of red 
 wool. In some parts the power of the chief is pretty ex- 
 tensive, though not generally so. Some small revenue is 
 raised among the people and given to the chiefs. 
 
 Determinations for war or peace, are generally formed 
 with the concurrence and consent of the people, w ho are as- 
 sembled for the purpose. The concourse of people on such 
 an occasion is very great. These assemblies are called 
 Polabras, and in them speeches are made which display 
 much energy and natural eloquence. 
 
 Theft and adultery are punished by law, which shews that 
 private property is respected, and that the law of nature is 
 not so entirely lost among that people as some affirm. 
 
 Though they have no character that can be called their 
 own, yet their language can be reduced to a system, as is 
 evident from a Catechism and Vocabulary in it, which 
 Mr. Milne obtained at the Isle of France. Their learned 
 men, whom they call Ombrasses, use the Arabic character. 
 They have some histories, and treatises on Physic, Geometry, 
 and Astrology. The art of w^riting is thought to have been 
 introduced by the Arabs. 
 
 Paper is manufactured, in the valley of Amboul, from 
 the Papyrus Nilotica, and called by the natives Songa 
 Sanga. Their ink is prepared from the bark of the Aran 
 Drato ; it is not so black as ours, but has a finer gloss. Their 
 pens are made of bamboos.
 
 ISLAND OF MADAGASCAR. 549 
 
 Some natives on the coast speak a little French and 
 English. 
 
 Physicians are held in great estimation among them. All 
 their science consists in knowing some aromatic^ astringent, 
 and purgative plants, which they generally make a mixture of. 
 
 They know but little of arithmetic : they count to ten, and 
 add a branch for each ten more. Time is divided by moons. 
 Sorcery is generally practised. 
 
 CHAP. IT. 
 
 RELIGION— TREATMENT OF THE AGED— INIATRIMONY— 
 CEREMONIES RELATING TO CHILDREN— WAR— COM- 
 MERCE- SLAVES, &c. 
 
 IT has been asserted that the Madagascars have no re- 
 ligion, but this is erroneous, for they have a religion, how- 
 ever imperfect it may be. They acknowledge two great 
 principles ; one good, which they call J(ui liar, or Great : 
 Jan also is interpreted Jove, and hur incarnate. To him 
 they neither build temples nor offer prayers ; nor do they 
 represent him under any visible forms, because he is good, 
 but they offer sacrifices to him. The other is bad, which they 
 call Jgnat. To him they reserve always a portion of the vic- 
 tims w hich they offer to the other. The head of the family, 
 or chief, performs this office. 
 
 The occasions of sacrifices are various, such as extra- 
 ordinary appearances in the heavens, earth, or sea; com- 
 mencement of some grand enterprise ; conclusion of treaties, 
 &c. On the conclusion of treaties of peace the ceremony is 
 awful : the blood of the victim is mixed with brine and gun- 
 powder, over which some liquor is poured. All who enter 
 into the treaty must taste it. The speaker conjures the bad 
 being to change it into poison to those who shall drink it, and 
 afterwards break the treaty. According to the custom of 
 ancient nations, the most dreadful curses are pronounced on 
 those who shall first infringe it. 
 
 A gentleman who was lately at the island of St. Mary, 
 which is close to Madagascar, for three months, related on
 
 550 ISLAND OF MADAGASCAR. 
 
 his return to the Isle of France, the following ceremony of 
 making a brother^ which is stated in the information sent by 
 Mr. Milne. 
 
 The intention seems something like that of free masonry. 
 When the people were collected, a tub, full of bull's blood, 
 was placed in the middle of them. A quantity of gunpowder, 
 with a pistol or two, was thrown in; after which it was 
 stirred with a long piece of iron, the point of which every 
 man touched with his tongue. Ihe effect of this on the 
 natives is so strong, that they would do any thing for the 
 stranger who thus becomes their brother, yea, even lay down 
 their lives for him. The same gentleman also said, that 
 should any native strike a European, the Chief would instant- 
 ly order punishment, perhaps death. 
 
 They have some confused idea of the creation. The 
 learned among them affirm that the Creator of heaven and 
 earth drew, from the body of the first man, seven women, 
 who are the mothers of the tribes. This tradition evidently 
 origina';es from sacred scripture. 
 
 A gentleman related to Mr. Milne a ceremony, which he 
 had witnessed in Madagascar, and which bears considerable 
 resemblance to the Lord's supper. " A company is collect- 
 ed, and a sacrifice killed. A table, covered with banana 
 leaves, is set in the middle. On this a person places three 
 small pieces of bread, and pieces of the fiesh of the sacrifice 
 opposite to the bread, and a bottle filled with liquor. Then 
 the master of the family oft'ers up a prayer to God for a 
 blessing on his children and friends ; after w hich the bread is 
 broken, and the whole distributed to the company." 
 
 Aged persons are universally treated with respect, and 
 never exposed, as in some pagan countries. Mr. Milne 
 could not obtain information of the kind of ceremony which 
 takes place on the occasion of marriage ; however, all agreed 
 that a plurality of women is common to tlie chiefs, but that 
 one only is legally betrothed; that the rest are considered as 
 concubines ; that considerable happiness is enjoyed in the 
 matrimonial state, but that divorces are not uncommon. 
 
 The circumcision of children is common throughout the 
 island. On such occasions there is a feast, the neighbours 
 are called, and a sacrifice is killed. At the birth of children 
 the soothsayers are consulted, and if their decisions prove 
 unfavourable, the poor infants are exposed to the w ild beasts 
 in the woods. They sometimes fire guns on the birth of 
 children^ and always use much ceremony at the burial of the 
 dead.
 
 ISLAND OF MADAGASCAR. 551 
 
 Wars are frequent in Madagascar, which might be ex- 
 pected from the number of independent governments, and 
 the general ignorance of the people. The arms used pre- 
 vious to their intercourse with Europeans were the bow, 
 the lance, and the spear, which they throw with much dex- 
 terity. Swords and fire arms have been carried to them by 
 Europeans. The conqueror claims all that formerly belonged 
 to the conquered. In general^ prisoners are not ill treated 
 till sold to Europeans. 
 
 Cattle^ rice, slaves, and cloth, form the chief articles of 
 export. The best rice fields are in the interior of the 
 country, which causes the people to remove, and makes 
 them more unsettled. They bring down their articles to 
 the coast, and continue there till all be disposed of, after 
 which they return. 
 
 Slaves are persons taken in war, whom the Arabs and 
 others purchase from the victor, bring down to the coast, 
 and sell to such Europeans as traffic in human beings. 
 This is one of the principal causes of Madagascar wars. 
 Gain prompts the chiefs to outrages, on purpose to obtain 
 captives. 
 
 Coin is almost unknown in the interior of the island : 
 they trade by the exchange of such articles as they re- 
 ciprocally need. Spanish dollars pass on the coast, which 
 are sometimes cut into four parts. They are very fond of 
 powder, ball, fire arms, knives, and ornaments of various sorts, 
 European cloths, pictures, &c. Those who live in the towns 
 on the sea coasts are said to have embraced many of the 
 customs of those who trade with them. 
 
 There is a constant trade carried on with Madagascar 
 from Bourbon and the Isle of France, both in French and 
 English ships. The trade is almost exclusively carried on 
 with the southern parts of the island. 
 
 The Island of Joanna, which is one of the Comora Isles, 
 lies to the westward of the north end of Madagascar. The 
 chief has long been friendly to the English. He goes by the 
 name of King George, and some of his children are named 
 after some of the branches of our royal family. An ambassa- 
 dor was lately sent from this king to the governor of the Cape 
 of Good Hope, soliciting his assistance against the people of 
 Madagascar, who came over in boats which held forty or 
 fifty persons, and plundered their island; but the Governor 
 did not comply with their request.
 
 552 
 
 ISLAND OF MADAGASCAR. 
 
 THE LORD'S PRAYER IN THE LANGUAGE OF 
 MADAGASCAR. 
 
 Rait-sica an-danghitsi, angare ano ho fissa tife i fansap 
 
 Father our in heaven name thy ?nagni/ied be kingdom 
 
 ano, evi aminaie; aniorompo-ano lio efa, iz an tanne, 
 
 tht/ come to us. the pleasure of tht/ heart he done in earth 
 
 oucoiia an-danghitsi. Mahoume anaie ananenai anrou- 
 
 as if in heaven. Give to us for our support day 
 
 anne moufe abi. Tane iou Zahaie, O Zanhar ! gni fannahe- 
 
 this bread all. Remit to us, God ! trespasses 
 
 naie ratsi abi ; toua zaie mivale i fannahe rasti a gni rafi 
 
 our evil all; as we forgive iniquities ^enemies 
 
 naie ; aca manatitse anaie vetse-vetse ratsi : fea ano 
 to our ; do not lead vs in conceptions evil : but thou 
 
 milleneza anaie tabin ratsi abi. Amen. 
 
 deliver us from evil all. Amen. 
 
 NUxMBERS. 
 
 Rec 
 
 Roue 
 
 Telou 
 
 Effat 
 
 Dimi 
 
 Henne 
 
 Fitou 
 
 Valou 
 
 Civi 
 
 Polou 
 
 Polou rec ambe 
 
 Polou roue ambe 
 
 Roue polou 
 
 Roue polou rec 
 
 ambe 
 Telou polou 
 Telou polou rec 
 
 ambe 
 Effat polou 
 Effat polou rec 
 
 ambe 
 Demi polou 
 
 one 
 two 
 three 
 four 
 Jive 
 six 
 seven 
 eight 
 vine 
 ten 
 eleven 
 twelve 
 twenty 
 
 > txoenty one 
 thirty 
 
 > thirty one 
 forty 
 
 > forty one 
 
 fifty 
 
 Demi polou rec 
 
 ambe 
 Henne polou 
 Fitou polou 
 Valou polou 
 Civi polou 
 Zatou 
 
 Zatou rec ambe 
 
 Zatou dimi ambe 
 
 Zatou polou ambe 
 
 Roue zatou 
 
 Demi zatou 
 Arrive 
 Dimi arrive 
 
 Polou arrive 
 
 \ fifty one 
 
 sixty 
 
 seventy 
 
 dghty 
 
 ninety 
 
 a hundred 
 y a hundred 
 \ and one 
 f a hundred 
 \ and five 
 C a hundred 
 \ and ten 
 C txvo hun- 
 \ dred 
 C five hun- 
 \ dred 
 
 a thousand 
 C five thou- 
 I sand 
 J ten thou- 
 \ sand.
 
 ISLAND OF MADAGASCAR. 
 
 553 
 
 
 HEAVENLY BODIES. 
 
 
 Sainoussi 
 
 the Sun 
 
 Azoali 
 
 Jupiter 
 
 Azohora 
 
 the Moon 
 
 Alimouzetfari 
 
 Venus 
 
 Alotarida 
 
 Mars 
 
 Alimareche 
 
 Saturn. 
 
 Alacamari 
 
 Mercury 
 
 
 
 
 MON 
 
 THS. 
 
 
 Assaramanghits 
 
 January 
 
 Fossa 
 
 July 
 
 Asarabe 
 
 February 
 
 Maca 
 
 August 
 
 Vatravati 
 
 March 
 
 Hiahia 
 
 September 
 
 Saftard 
 
 April 
 
 Sacamasseh 
 
 October 
 
 Atsihi 
 
 May 
 
 Sacave 
 
 November 
 
 Valaseira 
 
 June 
 
 Voulanbitou 
 
 December 
 
 4 B
 
 No. VI. 
 
 ACCOUNT OF THE ISLE OF FRANCE.* 
 
 THE climate in the Isle of France is generally considered 
 rather healthy than otherwise, especially about the centre of 
 the island. In the vicinity of Port Louis, the principal ren- 
 dezvous for shipping, and the seat of government, the heat in 
 the months of October, November, and December, is parti- 
 cularly oppressive, and at times would be insupportable if it 
 were not for the sea breezes which generally set in towards 
 the evening. About the latter end of January the hurricanes 
 usually commence; their duration is about two months, and 
 they are frequently very destructive to shipping, plantations, 
 and houses. 
 
 One observation, which tends in some degree to militate 
 against the opinion generally entertained of the healthiness 
 of the island is, that among the generality of the inhabit- 
 ants, there are not any remarkable appearances of longevity ; 
 nor are there any instances of that nature on record. 
 
 The productions of the island are sugar, ebony, a little 
 indigo, and cotton : the latter article is inferior to that which 
 grows at Bourbon ; but Port Louis is the general mart for 
 all the products of Bourbon and the other islands ; and in 
 order that the other islands may be wholly dependent on the 
 Isle of France or Mauritius, the government levy a heavy 
 duty on all products of the other islands, when exported 
 from the place of growth direct. Sugar is not permitted to 
 be cultivated on any of the islands, except Mauritius, in 
 order that the other islands may be dependent on her for 
 that necessary article. 
 
 The planters in the Isle of France manufacture a species 
 of arrack or rum, but of an inferior quality. The manioc or 
 
 * Written, at my desire, by a gentleman wlio had for some time been a 
 resident at Port Louis. — ^J. C.
 
 ACCOUNT OF THE ISLE OF FRANCE. 555 
 
 bread-tree has been introduced there from Madagascar, and 
 thrives >vell : maize, or Indian corn, also grows well; this 
 and the manioe, form the principal ingredients of negro 
 food. All plants and fruits found in tropical islands, are 
 generally to be met with there in great abundance. The pine 
 apple appears to be one of the native or original fruits of the 
 island ; it grows in profusion, in different parts, without any 
 cultivation. The ginger root is to be found over the greater 
 part of the island. Aromatic plants are also abundant: the 
 effluvia arising from them is so strong, as to be sensibly felt 
 on approaching the island on the N.W. side. 
 
 Nothing can exceed the grandeur of the scenery, which 
 the whole extent of the island displays, on sailing towards 
 Port Louis. The beautiful appearance and variety of the 
 plantations, some of which are carried to a great height up 
 the sides of mountains and hills, whose summits are generally 
 covered with various descriptions of trees and evergreens — 
 rivet the attention of the stranger, and insensibly create in his 
 mind the most pleasing sensations. 
 
 The entrance into Port Louis is extremely difficult, and 
 cannot be approached without the guidance of a pilot : it is 
 completely surrounded with coral banks, which are increas- 
 ing every year, in the harbour are basons fit to receive ships 
 of the line ; and so deep and commodious is the harbour, 
 that ships of considerable burthen lie close in with the shore. 
 
 On landing, the first object which arrests the attention of 
 the stranger is the government house, an elegant, extensive 
 building, partly built of stone and partly of wood : it is built 
 after the Indian mode of architecture, having galleries or bal- 
 conies projecting out and running the whole extent of the 
 building at each story : upon the whole, it has a grand appear- 
 ance, and is the only building worthy of notice upon the 
 whole island. The town of Port Louis has, generally speak- 
 ing, a mean appearance; the houses, built of wood, give a 
 gloom which, when added to the narrowness of the streets 
 and the dirt by w hich they are surrounded, causes considerable 
 disappointment to the stranger, whose expectations have 
 been heightened from the external appearance of the island. 
 The only other public buildings are the police office and court 
 of justice, and are only to be distinguished by being built of 
 stone, and bearing their respective names. 
 
 There appears to have been formerly a church on the 
 island : it is now in ruins, and no substitute has yet been 
 erected. On making inquiry why the church was suffered 
 to remain without any means being used to repair it, the re- 
 
 4 B 'i
 
 556 ACCOUNT OF THE ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 ply was, they had no money to build another, nor were any 
 applications made to the inhabitants for the necessary aid. 
 
 The higher class of inhabitants have their houses without 
 the skirts of the town. Many of them are handsome within, 
 but generally have a mean appearance from being built of 
 wood ; many of the houses have small gardens attached, which 
 tend much to enhance their value. 
 
 The Champ do Mars is the only place on the island ex- 
 clusively appropriated to the use of the public. It is a spa- 
 cious plain, nearly square, and bounded by hilis, at the foot 
 of which are many elegant cottages and other buildiugs, that 
 give to the whole an enchanting appearance. 
 
 Towards the upper or south east side of Champ de Mars 
 stands part of a superb monument, erected in honour of a 
 former governor general : the building has been begun upon 
 a grand scale, but the expense to finish the whole far exceed- 
 ing the subscriptions, they have been under the necessity of 
 giving up the undertaking. 
 
 In this beautiful spot the inhabitants, when the weather 
 permits, meet in parties for hearing military music, prome- 
 nading, riding, &.c. and seldom retire till late : then begin 
 their balls, concerts, &.c. which generally continue till a late 
 hour the next morning. The French on the island devote 
 the whole of their evenings to amusements. The large theatre 
 is open every night either for balls or theatricals. 
 
 This propensity for amusements is habitual among the old 
 as well as the young. Their minds, in consequence of the 
 want of religious and moral instruction, are depraved, im- 
 moral, and irreligious, to the utmost possible extent. There 
 are, however, a few among them that are intelligent, scien- 
 tific men, who contribute to the support of an excellent 
 library, kept open for the use of the public ; but these, com- 
 pared wiih the great mass of the inhabitants, are few indeed. 
 
 In general, the femtile part of the community receive but 
 a slender education : exterior accomplishments and appear- 
 ance are the main objects of all ll-eir pursuits. If a lady can 
 dance, sing, and play music well, her education is finished, 
 and she is launched out into society, with a vacant mind, un- 
 susceptible, perhaps, of those sentiments of virtue and prin- 
 ciple so essentially necessary to the support of the female cha- 
 racter. The education of the young men is not less slender. 
 Some fam.lies, however, have taken particular care in the edu- 
 cation of their sons; and such of them as have had that ad- 
 vantage have given proofs of being possessed of minds of no 
 ordinary stamp.
 
 ACCOUNT OF THE ISLE OF FRANCE. 557 
 
 The proportion of slaves to white, and free people of 
 colour, will be fully ten to one. Some have stated the num- 
 ber of slaves to be seventy, others eighty thousand; it would 
 appear, however, that these numbers are greatly exaggerated, 
 and that fifty thousand may be considered as nearer the 
 mark. Most of the slaves appear to be natives of Mada- 
 gascar and Mosambique : the greater proportion are from 
 the former island, and are generally considered more vala- 
 able, on account of their activity, quickness of apprehension, 
 and ready turn of mind in acquiring the French language ; 
 they are also more easily taught trades, &c. The African 
 slaves being more passive, are generally employed on planta- 
 tions, and not unfrequently substituted in the place of beasts 
 of burthen. All the merchandize landed at the Isle of 
 France is put into large waggons or drays, to which are 
 yoked from twelve to fourteen negroes, and they drag these 
 waggons, heavily laden, to various magazines or stores sta- 
 tioned in differetit parts of Port Louis. It has been stated 
 that there are more than five hundred slaves who are set 
 apart for, and are daily employed in, this degrading work. 
 
 The greater part Oi the produce of the island is also trans- 
 ported in this manner from the plantations in the interior to 
 the principal port; and the attention and pity of the stranger 
 are frequently arrested, to witness the distressing scene of 
 females indiscriminately yoked with male slaves, to huge 
 waggons, subject to the unmerciful control of a negro driver. 
 
 The situation of a slave, in this quarter of the globe, is 
 more humiliating and oppressive than in any other with 
 w hich I am acquainted. The French are particularly nice 
 in their distinctions ; for instance, no male or female slave, 
 black or wliile, is permittGd to wear shoes; and it is from 
 the strict adherence to this petty law, that a free black or 
 white person is distinguished from a slave. The French 
 generally keep all people of colour at considerable distance, 
 and treat them with decided contempt. Free blacks and peo- 
 ple of colour are not pern)itted to reside in the centre of the 
 town ; they are obliged to take up their residence at one of 
 the extremities of Port Louis ; and those parts are distin- 
 guished by the appellation of Malabar, or in other words. 
 Black Town. 
 
 It is hardly to be expected, that people cherishing such 
 prejudices, can feel desirous of soothing the condition of 
 those unfortunate slaves who are under their control. Indeed 
 this wretched appearance of the great bulk of the slaves,
 
 558 ACCOUNT OF THE ISLE OF FRANCE. 
 
 shews evidently that it is hardly possible to be in a worse 
 condition than they really are. 
 
 The various methods resorted to of punishing slaves, dis- 
 play an ingenuity of invention dreadfully misapplied; for 
 instance, they chain two slaves together with an iron rod 
 riveted round their necks, so that the one cannot move 
 or walk without the consent of the other. Slaves are 
 frequently met in the streets having a large iron collar 
 round their necks, from which project out, at equal dis- 
 tances, four pieces of iron rod about ten inches long, and 
 through which are also riveted sharp iron spikes, which com- 
 pletely disable the poor creature, who is doomed to wear it, 
 from lying down to sleep, or even turning round his head. 
 There are many other equally singular contrivances ; and it is 
 perhaps from the number and frequency of such cruel pu- 
 nishments, that the inhabitants have lost all sense of pro- 
 priety and feeling. 
 
 The middling and lower classes of inhabitants are in gene- 
 ral industrious, and there are among them many excellent 
 mechanics ; ail the useful trades are carried on with spirit 
 and success. The large iron foundery for casting cannon. 
 Sic. and the etxensive manufactory for ail sorts of hardware, 
 which belong to one person, would do credit to Birmingham 
 or any other manufacturing town in England, not only for ex- 
 tent, but also for the ingenuity and quality of the workman- 
 ship. Ship building has been formerly carried on to consi- 
 derable extent; and no part of the world affords more faci- 
 lity for that purpose. 
 
 For these, and many other political reasons, the Isle of 
 France becomes a place of considerable importance in time 
 of war, especially to France, to whom it has belonged from 
 the time the Dutch evacuated it in the year 1710.
 
 No. VII. 
 
 THE LORD'S PRAYER IN THE HOTTENTOT 
 LANGUAGE. 
 
 CITA iip lie nanoop na, sa ons anoohe, sa koop 
 
 Our Father the heaven in, thy name hallowed be, thy kingdom 
 
 hdi, sa ei i hoop ei ne nanoop nakoommi, cita 
 coine, thy will be done earth on the heaven in as our 
 
 cecorobe berip mata neci, i cita soorootikoo oobekata 
 
 daily bread give vs this day and our debts forgive iia 
 
 cita soorooti aukoo citee oobeka koommi, i ta oowa 
 
 our indebted 7nen we forgive as, and not temptation 
 
 keikata, gawe ooreta eip ga ; o sa ne koop ke, 
 
 lead in us, but deliver us tvil from ; for thine the kingdom is, 
 
 i de keip, i de isa i amo. Amen. 
 and the power, and the glory in eternity. 
 
 From this it appears that the Hottentot word i is used in 
 three difftrent senses. 1st. for be done — '2d. for and — 3d. 
 for in. The word ei is also used for zcill and on. But they 
 distinguish the different senses in which they use such words 
 by certain remarkable claps or clacks of the tongue, of which 
 it would be very difficult to convey any idea on paper. How- 
 ever, were a European fully acquainted with the different kinds 
 of claps, clacks, or inarticulate sounds, he might be able to 
 reduce them to classes, and invent certain signs for each. 
 
 Allip 
 
 dog 
 
 Aup 
 
 man 
 
 Aup 
 
 blood 
 
 Awi 
 
 rain 
 
 Ceb 
 Clsen 
 
 day 
 work 
 
 Een 
 
 parents 
 
 Gau 
 Gau aup 
 
 power 
 king 
 
 lip 
 Is 
 
 father 
 mother 
 
 Kaap 
 
 horse 
 
 NT( 
 
 )T WORDS. 
 
 
 
 Kaip 
 
 road 
 
 
 Kaka 
 
 to teach 
 
 
 Kaka aup 
 
 teacher 
 
 
 Kanip 
 
 book letter 
 
 
 Kap 
 
 brother 
 
 
 Kaukakas 
 
 spirit 
 
 
 O 
 
 death 
 
 
 Oab 
 
 son 
 
 
 Oeip 
 
 Itfe 
 
 
 Om 
 
 house 
 
 
 Tarao 
 
 •woman 
 
 
 Tikas 
 
 sister
 
 560 
 
 VARIOUS WORDS AND PHRASES. 
 
 THE LORD'S PRAYER IN THE CORANNA 
 LANGUAGE. 
 
 Sita ienp Tomie na kap 
 
 tsa onee thaa tgy tgy 
 
 tsa chaoop koo ha 
 
 tsa tymp aapie 
 
 ie hom na kghoma aie hoop 
 
 Our Father who art in heaven 
 
 hallowed be thy name 
 
 thy kingdom come 
 
 thy will be done 
 
 in earth as it is in heaven 
 
 maadaa hoowaa tzee koo breep give us this day our daily bread 
 tnoo baa daa and forgive us our debts 
 
 tghaa tre sita taa whie kgho- 
 
 baa tno ba camaa sita soo- 
 
 rootie haa kghoina 
 thaa oo kaa daa orickoo na 
 tso koo goo oreedaa 
 tzaads oo haa kaoo kghoo 
 otghyp oien Zaap 
 o kaa teep. Amen. 
 
 as we forgive our debtors 
 
 and lead us not into temptation 
 but deliver us from evil 
 
 for thine is the kingdom 
 the power and the glory 
 
 for ever and ever. Amen. 
 
 NAMACQUA WORDS AND PHRASES. 
 
 { 
 
 Sookwap 
 
 Kaukakaas 
 
 Noouoop 
 
 Sores 
 Kahw 
 
 Dadsi i 
 
 Koin \ 
 
 Aub i 
 
 Darras 
 Ummi 
 
 Ummi ams \ 
 
 De coocho aub 
 De cuo aub 
 
 God, also a 
 sore knee 
 
 spirit, or the 
 teacher of 
 our hearts 
 
 heaven 
 
 SUJl 
 
 moon 
 
 eternal, eter- 
 nity 
 
 man, or hu- 
 man being 
 
 man, or hus- 
 band 
 
 woman 
 
 house 
 
 the door of 
 the house 
 
 the rich man 
 
 the poor man 
 
 Ne eicha aub 
 
 Madicah 
 
 Moosh 
 
 Moorry 
 
 Kommas 
 
 Komadi 
 
 Dsaui 
 
 Dsaun 
 
 Brii 
 
 Bridi 
 
 Comab 
 
 Comacoo 
 
 Haap 
 
 Haarn 
 
 Eidab 
 
 Eidagoo 
 
 Eama 
 
 Ooip 
 
 Anaaha 
 
 the bad man 
 
 how do you do 
 
 eye 
 
 eyes 
 
 cow 
 
 cows 
 
 calf 
 
 calves 
 
 goat 
 
 goats 
 
 ox 
 
 oxen 
 
 horse 
 
 horses 
 flea 
 fleas 
 
 water 
 
 live 
 
 hens
 
 CAFFRE WORDS. 
 
 56i 
 
 CAFFRE WORDS. 
 
 Upsough 
 
 Iinine 
 
 Quomso 
 
 Kwakoubzou 
 
 Le langa 
 
 Injanga 
 
 Kwiiikweles 
 
 Isoulou 
 
 Ammafou 
 
 Doudouma 
 
 Quele 
 
 Moja 
 
 Thokoloze 
 
 Invoula 
 
 Uraptzlaba 
 
 Loaenze 
 
 Intaba 
 
 Uralilo 
 
 Aramaenzi 
 
 Outjaeu 
 
 Emazimbo 
 
 Inzlou 
 
 Umkango 
 
 Bombo 
 
 Sousou 
 
 Mina 
 
 Wenna 
 
 Tina 
 
 Louratou 
 
 Ewa 
 
 Akkou 
 
 Akhou 
 
 Tenje 
 
 Mabini 
 
 Sountatou 
 
 Sienne 
 
 Sient lanou 
 
 Sientaendatou 
 
 night 
 day 
 
 morning 
 evening 
 the sun 
 the moon 
 stars 
 
 the heaven 
 clouds 
 thunder 
 snow 
 the wind 
 the devil 
 the rain 
 the earth 
 the sea 
 a mountain 
 fire 
 water 
 grass 
 corn 
 a house 
 the door 
 spoon 
 warm 
 I 
 
 tllQU 
 
 •we 
 they 
 yes 
 not 
 none 
 one 
 two 
 three 
 four 
 Jive 
 six 
 
 Sieukaka 
 
 Thoba 
 
 Ammasouma- 
 
 mani 
 Sou me 
 
 Souniemabini 
 Umkhoulo 
 Vella 
 Au 
 
 Pag ate 
 Ou 
 
 Ne, na 
 In 
 
 Impi 
 Lamba 
 Bao 
 Ounina 
 
 Umthaka bao 
 
 Toembi 
 
 Indaduir 
 
 Klogo 
 
 Amesj lo 
 
 Mlomou 
 
 Mlume 
 
 Lebe 
 
 Tamma 
 
 Zazi 
 
 Indoda 
 
 Umfazi 
 
 Maez 
 
 Metole 
 
 Kabi 
 
 Haesj 
 
 Inbowzi 
 
 Inbou 
 
 Intaka 
 
 Koukoukazi 
 
 eight 
 
 ten 
 
 twenty 
 
 hundred 
 
 from 
 
 to 
 
 in 
 
 but 
 
 and 
 
 with 
 
 an enemy 
 
 hunger 
 
 father 
 
 mother 
 \ father, son, or 
 3 brother 
 
 a girl 
 
 a sister 
 
 the head 
 
 the eye 
 
 the mouth 
 
 the tongue 
 
 the lips 
 
 flesh 
 
 blood 
 
 a man 
 
 a woman 
 
 a cow 
 
 a calf 
 
 an ox 
 
 a horse 
 
 a goat 
 
 a sheep 
 
 a bird 
 
 a hen 
 
 4 C
 
 No. VIII. 
 
 PROVISIONAL CHURCH REGULATIONS FOR THE BA- 
 TAVIAN COLONY AT THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE * 
 
 Julif 25th, 1804. 
 
 GENERAL PRINCIPLE AND REGULATIONS. 
 
 Article I. 
 ALL communities worshipping a Supreme Being for the 
 promotion of virtue and good morals, shall enjoy in this 
 colony an equal protection of the laws. 
 
 IL 
 
 Every community shall confess its persuasion openly with- 
 out improperly taxing that of another, and shall permit every 
 one free access to its meetings. 
 
 IIL 
 
 No exclusive privileges are attached to any religious con- 
 fession in society. 
 
 IV. 
 
 None shall be permitted to perform any divine service, 
 nor keep public meetings, except with the perfect knowledge 
 of the Governor for the time being. 
 
 * These regulations were made by the Dutch Government, in the 
 interval between the restoration and recapture of the Colony by the 
 English.
 
 GENERAL PRINCIPLES AND REGULATIONS. 563 
 
 V. 
 
 Government permits every community the free explanation 
 of their particular doctrine, and never make any decision or 
 regulation therein. It however preserves the unalienable 
 power to judge what effect such doctrine has upon the public, 
 and upon the minds and behaviour of the inhabitants. It is 
 obliged to oppose, prevent or moderate those effects in case 
 they may be found prejudicial. The clergymen are obliged 
 in their public or private instructions to conform in this 
 respect to the regulations of Government. Any opposition 
 is disobedience to the law and a violation of good order. 
 
 VL 
 
 No houses may, for the purpose of performing divine ser- 
 vice, of whatever community it may be, be erected or rebuilt 
 except with the knowledge of, and after having obtained due 
 permission from the Governor for the time being. 
 
 VIL 
 
 No public meetings of devotion may be held at ajiy 
 other time than the usual Sundays or holidays and in public 
 churches without due permission of the Governor for the 
 time being, and then always under the guidance and at the 
 responsibility of the qualified consistory of that community, 
 to which those persons belong who wish to hold these sepa- 
 rate meetings. The consistory must take care that no irregu- 
 larities take place, and that no doctrine be taught inconsistent 
 with good morals or with the tranquillity of society. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 No community shall increase the number of its public cler- 
 gymen without express permission from the Governor for the 
 time being, who has a right to judge of the necessity thereof. 
 
 IX. 
 
 No community shall appoint a public clergyman who has 
 pot previously obtained the right of residence from the 
 Governor. 
 
 X. 
 
 No clergymen are permitted to preach in public who have 
 not previously gone through the regular universities, have 
 given testimonies of their abilities, and thereby have beea 
 regularly ordained as is customary in each community. 
 
 4 c 2
 
 604 GENERAL PRINCIPLES AND REGULATIONS. 
 
 XI. 
 
 No person not being regularly ordained, being paid and 
 subjected to particular societies, composed of members from 
 one or more communities, shall be tolerated in this colony 
 for the purpose of exercising any part of the office of public 
 or private preacher, as a missionary from such societies 
 among any of the christian communities, either at pre- 
 sent or that may in future be established with public au- 
 thority. 
 
 XII. 
 
 No one is permitted to give any public or private instruc- 
 tions of religion in this colony except after having duly ob- 
 tained permission to reside here, having gone through his 
 examination, and being declared duly qualified to instruct, 
 by the consistory of that community to which he belongs. 
 
 XIII. 
 All such as have been sent hither from Holland by lawful 
 authority for that purpose, and have given information that 
 they are desirous of proceeding directly from hence under 
 the name of missionaries to teach, and encourage religion, 
 and civilize the Heathen beyond the limits of this colony, 
 deserve for such a laudable undertaking all possible assistance, 
 encouragement, and support, from government. 
 
 XIV. 
 
 The governor for the time being can fix the number, as 
 well as the residence of those who have given information of 
 being desirous to exercise the same duties among the Hot- 
 tentots, in as far as the original natives of this colony inhabit 
 separate villages or kraals, removed from the Christians and 
 stand under the immediate protection of the government of 
 this colony. 
 
 No one whosoever shall be allowed to do the same without 
 having previously obtained permission from the Governor; 
 in which case no missionary shall be allowed to interfere any 
 further with the social state of these Hottentots than may be 
 permitted him by the Governor for the time being. 
 
 XV. 
 
 All indigent persons must be supported out of the dona- 
 tions collected by each community, they being persons be- 
 longing to that community.
 
 GENERAL PRINCIPLES AND REGULATIONS. 565 
 
 XVI. 
 
 It is permitted to any person, possessing his sound reason, 
 and having attained the age of maturity, to address himself 
 to one or other community of this place, according to his 
 choice, and to cause himself to be inscribed as a member of 
 that community; and likewise to alter, voluntarily, as to 
 the choice he has made. But as long as there is no positive 
 declaration to the contrary, good order requires that every 
 person be bound to belong to some community of which his 
 parents are members, or in which he has been baptized. In 
 case the parents belong to different communities, the child 
 must belong to that of the father ; unless some other arrange- 
 ment has taken place between the father and mother. 
 
 XVII. 
 
 The public schools tending for the instruction of youth do 
 not belong to any particular community. They are semina- 
 ries for the purpose of forming good citizens for the state, 
 and as such they are under the immediate superintendance 
 and direction of God.
 
 No. IX. 
 
 INQUIRIES. 
 
 The folloxoing list of inquiries which I usually made in the different 
 countries which I visited, viay probably assist other travellers and 
 missionaries. 
 
 1. What conceptions have the people of this country of a 
 supreme being ? 
 
 2 Have they any knowledge of the soul of man ? 
 
 3 Have they any notions respecting a future state ? 
 
 4 Have they any knowledge of creation, or how the things 
 
 which they see came into being ? 
 
 5 Have they any notion of a providence, or the government 
 
 of an invisible agent, or being ? 
 
 6 What opinions do they entertain respecting the heavenly 
 
 bodies? 
 
 7 What opinions have they respecting the extent of the world ? 
 
 8 Have they any knowledge of other countries ? 
 
 9 Is there any thing peculiar in the dispositions of their 
 
 children ? 
 
 10 How do they treat their children? 
 
 1 1 What are the amusements of their children ? 
 
 12 What are the employments of their youth? 
 
 15 Do parents give any instruction to their children ? 
 14 Are they severe in punishing their children ? 
 
 1.5 Do any arts exist among them ? 
 
 16 Do they marry, and what is the form? 
 
 17 What diseases are they subject to ? 
 
 18 Are any medicines used by them ? 
 
 19 Are any operations on the body performed by them? 
 
 20 What is done for healing a broken limb? 
 
 21 How do they treat their sick ? 
 
 22 How do they appear affected at the approach of death ? 
 
 23 How are they affected by the death of friends ? 
 
 24 What are the ceremonies of their funerals ? 
 
 25 Have they any forms, or religious rites among them ?
 
 INQUIRIES. 567 
 
 26 Is any thing like witchcraft practised? 
 
 27 Do they ever travel to other lands ? 
 
 28 Have they any traditions among them ? 
 
 29 Have they any knowledge of their responsibility for their 
 
 actions ? 
 SO Are they quarrelsome ? 
 
 31 Is it difficult to bring parties to a reconciliation ? 
 
 32 Are they disposed to use means to reconcile those who 
 
 have quarrelled ? 
 
 33 How do persons of superior talents discover them ? 
 
 34 Are any monuments of antiquity existing among them ? 
 
 35 Do they go to war with their neighbours ? 
 
 36 What are the ordinary causes of their wars? 
 
 37 What are the results of their wars ? 
 
 38 Do they take prisoners in war r 
 
 39 How are these treated ? 
 
 40 Does slavery of any kind exist among them ? 
 
 41 Is civilization on the increase or decrease among them ? 
 
 42 Do any of the natives ever visit Cape-town ? 
 
 43 What influence has such a journey on them ? 
 
 44 Do they complain much of their hardships ? 
 
 45 What are their sentiments respecting the civilized? 
 
 46 Are there any remarkable instances of fidelity or treachery 
 
 among them ? 
 
 47 How do they generally treat strangers ? 
 
 48 Are they cruel to the brute creation ? 
 
 49 Do those who live on the sea coast go a fishing ? 
 
 50 How do they catch game ? 
 
 51 Are they inclined to imitate the manners and customs of 
 
 people more civilized than themselves ? 
 
 52 Are they indolent or industrious ? 
 
 53 Do they feel inducements, or perceive motives to industry? 
 
 54 Is old age common among them, and how are the aged 
 
 treated ? 
 
 55 Do they make any provision for the family they are to 
 
 leave behind ? 
 5G Have they any method of making ardent spirits : 
 
 57 What are their amusements ? 
 
 58 What is supposed to be their population? 
 
 59 What is the extent of the country ? 
 
 (iO What is the nature of their government ? 
 
 61 Have they any commerce ? 
 
 62 What articles do they exchange, and what do they receive 
 
 in return ? 
 
 63 Have they any forms at births, marriages, and funerals ?
 
 No. X. 
 
 MISSIONARIES IN SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 Names. 
 
 Stations. 
 
 Native Qjuntry. 
 
 !ssrs. Albricht 
 
 Namacqua Country 
 
 Suabia, 
 
 Anderson 
 
 Griqua Country 
 
 England. 
 
 Barker 
 
 Stellenbosh 
 
 Holland. 
 
 Bartlet 
 
 Theopolis 
 
 England. 
 
 Corner 
 
 Bethelsdorp 
 
 Demarara. 
 
 Ebner 
 
 Namacqua Country 
 
 Anspach. 
 
 Helm 
 
 Orlam Kraal, Great River 
 
 ■ Mecklenburgh. 
 
 Janz 
 
 Griqua Country 
 
 Holland. 
 
 Kramer 
 
 Tulbach Drosdy 
 
 Do. 
 
 Messer 
 
 Bethelsdorp 
 
 Hesse. 
 
 Pacalt 
 
 Hooge Hottentot Kraal 
 
 Bohemia. 
 
 Read 
 
 Bethelsdorp 
 
 England. 
 
 Seidenfadeb 
 
 : Zuurbrak Kraal 
 
 Hesse. 
 
 Smit 
 
 Bushman Country 
 
 Holland, 
 
 Schmelen 
 
 Namacqua Country 
 
 Hanover, 
 
 Sass 
 
 Orlam Kraal, Great River 
 
 Prussia. 
 
 TlIOM 
 
 Cape- town 
 
 Scotland. 
 
 Ulbricht 
 
 Theopolis 
 
 Saxony. 
 
 Vos 
 
 Rodezand 
 
 Holland. 
 
 Wimmer 
 
 Bethelsdorp 
 
 Austria.
 
 
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 No. XII. 
 
 UNSOLICITED CONTRIBUTIONS RECEIVED DURING 
 THE JOURNEY, IN AID OF IT. 
 
 AT BETHELSDORP. 
 
 FROM William Valentine, sen. the loan of twelve oxen 
 from Belhelsdorp to Graham's town. 
 
 From William Valentine, jun. twelve oxen from ditto 
 to ditto. 
 
 From different persons, the loan of twenty oxen from 
 Graham's town to Graaf Reynet. 
 
 From others, the loan of twenty oxen for the whole 
 journey. 
 
 GRAAF REYNET AND SNEUBERG. 
 
 Mr. Kicherer, one small keg of spirits, one bag of bis- 
 cuits, one ditto dried fruit. 
 
 Mr. Hendrick Meyntjes, one cask of wine, one sack of 
 flour, one ditto biscuits; oranges and lemons. 
 
 Jacobus Van Eerden, one horse, ten loaves, two cheeses, 
 one sheep ; vegetables. 
 
 Mr. Fisher, Landdrost, one large cheese. 
 
 Bererd Burgers, four sacks of flour, one ditto bread, two 
 sheep; vegetables. 
 
 GRIQUA COUNTRY. 
 
 Adam Kok, (a Griqua Chief,) and people of Griqua 
 town, the loan of thirty oxen from the Great River to 
 Griqua town, and ten from Griqua town to Hardcastle.
 
 UNSOLICITED CONTRIBUTIONS. 57 1 
 
 Adam Kok^ one ox for slaughter. 
 
 B. Bern, (a Griqua Chief) and people of Hardcastle, 
 loan of thirty oxen from English Ford to Read Ford on the 
 Great River. 
 
 Ditto, thirty oxen from Malalareen River to Griqua 
 town. 
 
 Ditto, thirty oxen from Griqua town to Vicars Place 
 
 Ditto, fourteen oxen from Vicars Place to Orlam Kraal, 
 Great River. 
 
 From different persons, one sack and a half of flour. 
 
 Adam Kok, Jan Hendrick, and Cupido Kok, travelled 
 as interpreters, without payment, from Griqua town to Lat- 
 takoo and Malapeetzee ; a journey of six weeks 
 
 LATTAKOO. 
 King Mateebe, a present of two oxen. 
 
 ORLAM KRAAL, GREAT RIVER. &c. 
 
 Cornelius Kok, jun. a present of a young bull for 
 slaughter : loan of fourteen oxen to Pella. 
 
 Mr. Albrecht, Pella, loan of forty oxen to Silver Foun- 
 tain, across an extensive desert. 
 
 Cornelius Kok, sen. Silver Fountain ; thirty oxen for 
 two days' journey. 
 
 Geis Lier, a boor at Kromelberg ; loan of twenty-four 
 oxen for one day's journey. 
 
 Mrs. Smith, at Four-and-twentieth River; four loaves, 
 butter, and milk. 
 
 Mr. Onkruydt, President of the Burgher Senate, and 
 family. Cape-town ; a variety of articles necessary for the 
 journey. 
 
 Mr. Casper Hammes, jun. Cape-town, repaired the 
 waggons, gratis, after the journey. 
 
 The boors of Sneuberg, of whom were purchased fifty 
 sheep for a hundred rix-doUars for the journey, sent me an 
 intimation by Mr. Kicherer, on my return to Cape-town, 
 that they designed to return the money, through him, to the 
 Society. 
 
 The house of Mr. Onkruydt, and afterwards of Mr. 
 Kenneth Duncan, his son-in-law, were comfortable homes to 
 me, during the whole of my residence at Cape-town; and iu 
 
 4 D 2
 
 572 UNSOLICITED CONTRIBUTIONS. 
 
 the same way was the house of Mr. Kuyper, at Stellenbosch, 
 during my residence in that town. 
 
 I have likewise a thousand civilities to acknowledge from 
 others, whom I have not named. 
 
 Purchased for and during the journey fifty-three oxen; of 
 these. 
 
 Died 10 
 
 Left behind sick 10 
 
 Lost 2 
 
 22 
 
 One Horse, indeed our only one, died in Namacqua land, 
 after crossing the desert.
 
 No. XIII. 
 
 REMARKS ON MR. LICHTENSTEIN'S OBSERVATIONS RES- 
 PECTING THE MISSIONARIES IN AFRICA. 
 
 SINCE my journal went to press, a quarto volume has 
 been put into my hands, intitled '' Travels in Southern 
 Africa, by Henry Lichtenstein/' a German gentleman, that 
 I might have an opportunity of examining various objections 
 which he brings agamst our missions in that country. 
 
 Though his travels, related in that volume, were confined 
 to the colony, or that part of Africa inhabited by Hottentots 
 and Dutch farmers, yet his book contains much information 
 concerning the state of affairs when the colony was under the 
 Dutch Government. 
 
 In page 143 he speaks of a sa'arm o/" m/ss/o«anes having 
 completely spoiled the ladies of Rodezand, (a village about 
 forty miles from the Cape,) because they had laid aside 
 what he terms, the lively feelings of youth, and betaken 
 themselves to prayer and praising of God, contrary, as he 
 says, to the wishes of their regular clergyman, who en- 
 couraged cheerfulness among the young people. He did so, 
 and sometimes at the expense of the missionaries, one in- 
 stance of which will explain his turn of mind. One of our 
 Dutch missionaries was extremely averse to riding on horse- 
 back, as it shook his feeble frame almost to pieces. This 
 clergyman determined, however, that he should have a ride 
 to Cape-town — Accordingly, he sent for the missionary, in 
 great haste, on a Lord's day morning, and informed him, 
 that he had just received an order from the Governor, de- 
 siring him to come to Cape- town to converse with him on 
 some point connected with his work, and a horse was ready 
 for him to mount. The poor young man, from his anxiety 
 about this order of the Governor, got ready in a few mi- 
 nutes, and with fear and trembling for the consequences of 
 a ride, mounted the horse, and the clergyman had the satis- 
 faction to see him in motion before he himself mounted the 
 pulpit. However, when he thought the missionary had 
 been sufficiently jolted, he dispatched a man after him, to 
 inform him that the whole was a hoax.
 
 574 REMARKS ON LICTHENSTEIN. 
 
 I had also an opportunity of visiting the ladies at Rode- 
 zand, and must say that I witnessed as much vivacity and 
 cheerfulness among them as among any other ladies in the 
 colony, though not manifested in the manner that Mr. L. 
 most approved, by attending dancing parties. Nor did I find 
 them such enemies to music as he represents them ; for I wit- 
 nessed many of them assembled in the house of our mission- 
 ary, sphere there was an organ playing; and they were em- 
 ployed in singing with it, but the words were hymns. 
 
 Mr. L. not only blames the missionaries for perverting the 
 taste of the ladies of Rodezaud, but likewise of the former 
 clergyman, who, he says, was ignorant and illiterate, and 
 preached the doctrine of every one devoting himself en- 
 tirely to the salvation of his own soul ; a doctrine, he says, 
 not only utterly destructive of all social affection, but even 
 of all attention to the necessary occupations of life. What- 
 ever this clergyman might be, his doctrine was according to 
 scripture, only taking the word entirely in a restricted sense. 
 He could not mean, that they were not to attend to the ne- 
 cessary duties of life, but to direct their chief attention to 
 that most important of all concerns, the everlasting happiness 
 of their own souls — " The one thing needful." 
 
 When I visited the clergyman whom Mr. L. represents as 
 condemning the piety of the ladies of Rodezand, a short 
 time before his death, instead of speaking against the conduct 
 of our missionary there, he spoke highly in commendation 
 of him, and freely consented to our sending missionaries to 
 the Cedar mounlains, a distant and very destitute part of his 
 district. At the same time 1 do not call in question the ve- 
 racity of Mr. L. in what he says of his sentiments, for he 
 was a man who delighted in drollery; and the colony abounds 
 with curious anecdotes respecting him. Whether his drollery 
 was suitable to the office he sustained, I leave to the judg- 
 ment of him to whose bar he is gone. 
 
 In page 0.35 Mr. Lichtenstein commences his remarks on 
 Bethelsdorp and Vanderkemp. That settlement, it should 
 be recollected, was then but lately begun; he says it was 
 then about a mile and a half from Algoa bay, now it is about 
 eight miles. He speaks of the Hottentot houses being 
 mean, which undoubtedly they must have been; however he 
 allows that by means of the instructions they received, from 
 being riotous and troublesome, they were become peaceable. 
 In the succeeding page he asserts " that the utility which 
 might have been, and ought to have been derived from it, 
 was lost by the overpious spirit, and proud humility of its
 
 REMARKS ON LICHTENSTEIN. 575 
 
 head." Whatever Mr. L. may mean by this strange ex- 
 pression, the real cause had not occurred to him. The 
 Doctor, as his friend Mr. Read informed me, had no 
 knowledge of agriculture; and having formed, early in life, 
 habits of close study, he had. no taste for field labour; he 
 left it to others; and no doubt through this defect the in- 
 stitution greatly suffered: but his piety or zeal for the salva- 
 tion of the Hottentots had no concern in producing or con- 
 tinuing this defect. The religion revealed in the New Tes- 
 tament can never be an obstruction to the temporal good of 
 mankind, but must have an opposite tendency; at the same 
 time defects in its teachers may be unfavourble to these. 
 
 In the same page he informs us that the Hottentots under 
 Dr. Vanderkemp " sang praises to God, called upon him 
 " by prayer, were lieurtili/ penitent for their sins, and con- 
 *' versed of the Lamb of atonement, }^et none were really 
 " the better for it." Will any man who fears God, and 
 believes his revelation, believe this ? Impossible ! They 
 might not have better houses, more fields, or more cattle; 
 but if they were heartily penitent for past sins, and loved to 
 talk of the atoning Lamb of God, they must have been 
 better men and women in the sight of God, and of all wise 
 and good men; but things which appear excellent in the 
 sight of God, are often despised by those who are unfriendly 
 to true godliness. 
 
 I observe also that from what this author writes, the 
 reader might suppose, that persons coming to missionary 
 settlements are supported by the missionaries; but the 
 public may rest assured that no part of the Society's funds is 
 appropriated to such a purpose; and the missionaries are 
 unable to do it; of necessity therefore every one coming to 
 them must in some way provide for himself. Indeed it 
 would be extremely sinful to support in idleness, such as are 
 able to work ; but having few wants they can more easily 
 support themselves than Europeans. 
 
 The report which Mr. Lichtenstein heard while his work 
 was in the press, of Dr. V. having married a very young 
 slave, whose freedom, with that of her mother's he had 
 purchased, is correct; but the rest of the report 1 believe to 
 be incorrect, viz. that they did not live together as man and 
 wife, for he has left behind him, by her, two fine boys, one 
 I think about eight years of age and the other six, to whom 
 and their mother he has bequeathed his property. The 
 truth is the Doctor was an eccentric man and did eccentric 
 things, which it is not my business to vindicate.
 
 574 REMARKS ON LICTHENSTEIN. 
 
 I had also an opportunity of visiting the ladies at Rode- 
 zand, and must say that I witnessed as much vivacity and 
 cheerfulness among them as among any other ladies in the 
 colony, though not manifested in the manner that Mr. L. 
 most approved, by attending dancing parties. Nor did I find 
 them such enemies to music as he represents them ; for I wit- 
 nessed many of them assembled in the house of our mission- 
 ary, %^here there was an organ playing; and they were em- 
 ployed in singing with it, but the words were hymns. 
 
 Mr. L. not only blames the missionaries for perverting the 
 taste of the ladies of Rodezand, but likewise of the former 
 clergyman, who, he says, was ignorant and illiterate, and 
 preached the doctrine of every one devoting himself en- 
 tirely to the salvation of his own soul ; a doctrine, he says, 
 not only utterly destructive of all social affection, but even 
 of all attention to the necessary occupations of life. What- 
 ever this clergyman might be, his doctrine was according to 
 scripture, only taking the word entirely in a restricted sense. 
 He could not mean, that they were not to attend to the ne- 
 cessary duties of life, but to direct their chief attention to 
 that most important of all concerns, the everlasting happiness 
 of their own souls — •" The one thing needful." 
 
 When I visited the clergyman whom Mr. L. represents as 
 condemning the piety of the ladies of Rodezand, a short 
 time before his death, instead of speaking against the conduct 
 of our missionary there, he spoke highly in commendation 
 of him, and freely consented to our sending missionaries to 
 the Cedar mountains, a distant and very destitute part of his 
 district. At the same time 1 do not call in question the ve- 
 racity of Mr. L. in what he says of his sentiments, for he 
 was a man who delighted in drollery; and the colony abounds 
 with curious anecdotes respecting him. Whether his drollery 
 was suitable to the office he sustained, I leave to the judg- 
 ment of him to whose bar he is gone. 
 
 In page "235 Mr. Lichtenstein commences his remarks on 
 Beihelsdorp and Vanderkemp. That settlement, it should 
 be recollected, was then but lately begun; he says it was 
 then about a mile and a half from Algoa bay, now it is about 
 eight miles. He speaks of the Hottentot houses being 
 mean, which undoubtedly they must have been; however he 
 allows that by means of the instructions they received, from 
 being riotous and troublesome, they were become peaceable. 
 In the succeeding page he asserts *^ that the utility which 
 might have been, and ought to have been derived from it, 
 was lost by the ovcrpious spirit, and proud humility of its
 
 REMARKS ON LICIITENSTEIN. 575 
 
 head." Whatever Mr. L. may mean by this strange ex- 
 pression, the real cause had not occurred to him. The 
 Doctor, as his friend Mr. Read informed me, had no 
 knowledge of agriculture; and having formed, early in life, 
 habits of close study, he had no taste for field labour; he 
 left it to others; and no doubt through this defect the in- 
 stitution greatly suffered : but his piety or zeal for the salva- 
 tion of the Hottentots had no concern in producing or con- 
 tinuing this defect. The religion revealed in the New Tes- 
 tament can never be an obstruction to the temporal good of 
 mankind, but must have an opposite tendency; at the same 
 time defects in its teachers may be unfavourble to these. 
 
 In the same page he informs us that the Hottentots under 
 Dr. Vanderkemp " sang praises to God, called upon him 
 " by prayer, were heartily ■penitent for their sins, and con- 
 " versed of the Lamb of atonement, jet none were really 
 " the belter for it." Will any man who fears God, and 
 believes his revelation, believe this ? Impossible ! They 
 might not have better houses, more fields, or more cattle; 
 but if they were heartily penitent for past sins, and loved to 
 talk of the atoning Lamb of God, they must have been 
 better men and women in the sight of God, and of all wise 
 and good men; but things which appear excellent in the 
 sight of God, are often despised by those who are unfriendly 
 to true godliness. 
 
 I observe also that from what this author writes, the 
 reader might suppose, that persons coming to missionary 
 settlements are supported by the missionaries; but the 
 public may rest assured that no part of the Society's funds is 
 appropriated to such a purpose; and the missionaries are 
 unable to do it; of necessity therefore every one coming to 
 ihem must in some way provide for himself. Indeed it 
 would be extremely sinful to support in idleness, such as are 
 able to work ; but having few wants they can more easily 
 support themselves than Europeans. 
 
 The report which Mr. Lichtenstein heard while his work 
 was in the press, of Dr. V. having married a very young 
 slave, whose freedom, with that of her mother's he had 
 purchased, is correct; but the rest of the report I believe to 
 be incorrect, viz. that they did not live together as man and 
 wife, for he has left behind him, by her, two fine boys, one 
 I think about eight years of age and the other six, to whom 
 and their mother he has bequeathed his property. The 
 truth is the Doctor was an eccentric man and did eccentric 
 things, which it is not my business to vindicate.
 
 No. XIV. 
 
 REMARKS ON " JOURNAL OF A RESIDENCE IN INDIA." 
 
 [When the Printer had nearly finished this Appendix, a friend communi- 
 cated to me a paragraph transcribed from the Journal of a Residence 
 in India, bt/ Miss Maria Graham, page 176. This lady, it seems, 
 spent a few days at Cape-town, in her way to India, and with no other 
 data tlian flimsy reports, she is bold enough to offer to the public the 
 most gross mis/representations af the laborious missionaries in South 
 Africa. Her words are these ;] 
 
 " MOST of the African missionaries, when they go 
 into the interior, collect a tribe of savages round them, 
 who are willing to be baptized, and to pray and sing 
 psalms^ as long as the missionaries' store of brandy lasts; but 
 when that is done, they return to their native habits, only 
 more wretched from the artificial wants created by a partial 
 acquaintance with Europeans. The Moravians, on the con- 
 trary, instruct their proselytes to sow corn, to rear domestic 
 animals, and to manufacture articles of various kinds, which 
 are brought to Cape-town and sold; and with the produce, 
 coarse stuffs for clothing, and raw materials for the manu- 
 factures are bought. Having thus laid a foundation for under- 
 standing the necessity of moral regulation, by introducing the 
 comforts of society, the Moravians preach Christianity, with 
 an incalculable advantage over those blind enthusiasts, who, 
 neglecting to prepare their converts for the belief of real 
 Christianity, by shewing them the advantages to be derived 
 from the practice it enjoins, address themselves to their 
 passions and their credulity, and bribe them into baptism, 
 only to leave them in a worse state than that in which they 
 found them." Journal of a Residence in India, p. I76. 
 
 The foregoing pages of this work, together with the ob- 
 servations on Lichtenstein's travels, afford so full a refutation 
 of Miss Graham's slanders, as to render further remarks un- 
 necessary. The reader will perceive by what has been said 
 of Bethelsdorp, Griqua-town and other places, that the 
 Missionaries are anxious to promote the civilization of the 
 natives^ that they have succeeded, in various instances, to as
 
 REMARKS, &c. 579 
 
 great an extent as could be reasonably expected in the time, 
 and that far greater degrees of cultivation may be confidently 
 looked for. Civilization is much slower in its progress than 
 the inexperienced are inclined to suppose. It is easy to say, 
 might not this and the other thing be introduced among the 
 uncivilized, but many are the obstacles which cannot be 
 foreseen by people unaccustomed to intercourse with a rude 
 and undisciplined race. It is really cruel for a writer thus 
 wantonly, and on mere tea-table authority, to traduce the 
 character of those worthy and laborious men who have re- 
 linquished the comforts of European life, for the purpose of 
 instructing savages. Her insinuations about bribing by the 
 brandy bottle are as false as they are base ;* nor is she better 
 informed concerning the method pursued by the Moravian 
 Missionaries — they do not first civilize in order to christianize, 
 as she suggests; they have uniformly connected them toge- 
 ther, and have found that by the preaching of the cross of 
 Christ, accompanied by example and other practical re- 
 commendations of Christianity, many of their disciples have 
 been gradually improved, and led to lay aside their savage 
 manners, and to become in every sense, *' new creatures." 
 
 The Moravians have only two missionary stations in South 
 Africa, and both these in the vicinity of Cape-town, while 
 the Missionary Society have upwards of twelve, and many 
 of these very remote; of course the former have all kinds of 
 supplies at hand, and can with much greater facility hold 
 communications with their friends in England and at the 
 Cape; this no doubt gives them a peculiar advantage, which 
 I am far from regretting. 
 
 * A person in Cape-town complaining to me of the wretchedness of 
 Bethelsdorp, said that on his arrival there, though much fatigued by his 
 journey, he could not procure one glass of spirits in the whole settlement. 
 
 4 E
 
 No. XV. 
 
 LETTER FROM MR. SCHMELEN, NAMACQUA LAND. 
 
 [Having requested Mr. Schmelen, missionary in Little Niimacqua Land, to 
 explore the mouth of the Great River, Great Namacqua Land, and the 
 Damara count ry, he readily undertook this dangerous journey. But 
 not having been heard of for several months, painful apprehensions zcere 
 entertained as to his safety. These, however, have been happily relieved, 
 by a letter just received fromjhim ; ah extract from which follozcs: — ] 
 
 Klip Fountain; Great Namacqua Country, 
 JaZy29, 1814. 
 
 " My last, dated May 10, 1 hope has come to hand. J was 
 then of opinion, that after I should have finished my journey 
 in the Namacqua country, I should return to the Great 
 River, and begin a mission there; but since I was there, 
 Titus Africanus has made a fresh assault among the Great 
 Namacquas, destroyed several of their kraals, and stolen 
 some thousands of their cattle and sheep. Most of them are 
 now poor, and have scarcely any thing to live upon. They 
 have taken refuge in the place where I now am. These peo- 
 ple, with another chief called Flemerius, entreat me not to 
 forsake them in their present circumstances. Africanus has 
 terrified them by a message, threatening that he would come 
 and take off their skins to make shoes of; that he would cut 
 off their heads, and the breasts of the women, &c. &c. They 
 are so alarmed, that they say if I leave them, they must re- 
 move entirely from the country.
 
 LETTER FROM MR. SCHMELEN. 581 
 
 " When I heard of this, 1 went to the abode of Africaner, 
 in order to reason with him, and if possible to restore peace ; 
 but before I reached his kraal, he had left home for several 
 days, and circumstances would not allow me to follow him. 
 
 " 1 have received a letter from brother Helm, stating that 
 he wishes to remove from his present station, on account of 
 the extreme heat of the place, which is injurious to his 
 health ; and desiring me to tind a place more airy, and nearer 
 the sea. I have written to him, that if he continued in the 
 same mind, he might commence a mission near the mouth of 
 the Great River, to which 1 presumed brother Read and the 
 Directors would have no objection. If brother Helm should 
 decline this proposal, some other missionary should be sent 
 thither by the first opportunity. Two more missionaries are 
 requisite for the Chiefs, Tsaumap, Tsaugamap, and Karra- 
 map, whom 1 have seen and conversed with. They are 
 very desirous of being instructed, and are now on their way 
 towards Morast Fountain, which is their own country, about 
 three days' journey from hence. I have not seen the place 
 myself, but have heard from those who have lived there some 
 years, that it is a proper place for a missionary station. I 
 think that missionaries should not be frightened away by the 
 roarings of Titus Afi icanus, but boldly enter into the field of 
 the Lord, believing that he is able to protect them from all 
 danger. 
 
 " On the 18th of May I left the Great River, continually 
 travelling northward, though with great difficulty, but I was 
 not able to come near the sea, on account of the mountains, 
 and the scarcity of water. Sometimes I have been in a dis- 
 mal wilderness for a fortnight together, without meeting 
 one human creature. 1 continued travelling north as far as 
 it was possible, when on the 5lh of July I could proceed no 
 further, and was obliged to turn my waggon southward. I 
 was then entirely surrounded by wars, yet the Lord preserved 
 me and my people from all danger. 
 
 1 have not seen any considerable fountain, except that 
 where I now am ; but I have heard of some very good ones, 
 in and near the Gandemmap country ; and of one river called 
 Kooisip: and there must be a haven somewhere, where ships 
 anchor; and the chief of the Damara country told me of an 
 island near that country, where ships sometimes anchor, and 
 exchange their iron for the cattle of the natives. 
 
 I shall add the names of the several chiefs whom I have 
 visited on my journey since I left Pella. David Barly lives 
 at the mouth of the Great River Fleremius :
 
 582 LETTER FROM MR. SCHMELEN. 
 
 GREAT NAMACQUAS. 
 
 Kobus Frederick — where I now reside. 
 
 Nannimap: Koerissimap — much people. 
 
 Kannamap arrisip (Field shoe wearers) — much people. 
 
 Haikammap — Koowoosip. 
 
 Tsaumap. 
 
 Tsaugamap. 
 
 Karramap. 
 
 K^rramap. 
 
 Aimap. 
 
 Kanmaa — ^Tsaw vep . 
 
 ''With all these I have conversed, and find them very 
 desirous of being instructed ; but 1 have not proper places 
 for them all to settle. I think that the eyes of the Directors 
 must be more directed to the Fish River, for a multitude of 
 people dwell there in the dry season. 
 
 " The particulars of my journey I shall send by the first 
 opportunity. Remember me in your prayers before God, 
 
 "H. ScHMELEN." 
 
 THE END. 
 
 DIRECTIONS TO TIIE BINDER. 
 
 Page 
 FrontUpiece to face Title. 
 
 Map. Sig. B 1 
 
 Plate II 95 
 
 III 245 
 
 IV., V. 304 
 
 Page 
 
 Plate VI 342 
 
 VII 221 
 
 VIII 362 
 
 IX 388 
 
 X 116 
 
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