BANCROFT 
 LIBRARY 
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 
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 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
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59 of '86. 
 
 XjETTEPLS 
 
 WRITTEN TO 
 
 tttitt: 
 
 DURING THE SUMMER OF 
 
 ^««^^W#^ 
 
 BY ZITELLA. 
 
 ■.A/cCj 
 
 LEBANON, PA. 
 
 WORTH & REINOEHL, PRINTERS. 
 
 1880, 
 

 So 
 
 Whose interest in my welfare has been unabated since earliest 
 childhood, jg of '86 is respectfully dedicated. 
 
VI 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 After wielding the journalistic pen sufficiently long to 
 render an abbreviated account of the, to us, 59 memorable days 
 of the year 1886, we cheerfully abandon the same with the hope 
 that it may in the future fall into more competent hands. — 
 Literary fame, save but one exception, has never been our aspi- 
 ration. In years gone by, when but nine summers were ours, a 
 childish romance with the euphonious (!) title of Kitty Bundle 
 commenced and ended as we then thought our literary work. 
 Unexpectedly 59 of '86 courageously assumes a book attitude. 
 It comes to you in the form of a gift, hence treat its short- 
 comings with magnanimity. 
 
 Lebanon, Pa. T. McC. 
 
LETTER I. 
 
 Sherman House, 
 Corner Randolph and Clark Streets, 
 Chicago, Illinois. May 2, 1886. 
 
 Dear Courier : From this great commercial centre, which but 
 fifteen years ago that great fire fiend so completely claimed as 
 its victim, and which to-day shows not a single trace of the 
 terrible devastation, my first letter to you shall be written. 
 
 On the 29th of April, at an hour far removed from the 
 original for starting, the Raymond excursion party, numbering 
 in the neighborhood of one hundred persons, moved out from 
 the 9th and Green street station, Philadelphia, for a trip across 
 the Continent. The exit was made amidst the waving of hats 
 and handkerchiefs, and a few stray tears, accompanied by many 
 well and hearty wishes for a safe and happy journey. The 
 sun, too, which had been hidden, shone out lustily for several 
 hours, setting aflame the soft bright sky of the wild and 
 picturesque Lehigh Valley, through which we sped. iS'umerous 
 halts were made until Glen Summit was reached. Here a supper 
 awaited us. Well was it for those who, like 3^our correspondent, 
 were fortunate enough to have had a plentiful dinner, for the 
 repast was certainly a mean apology of the name it bore. — 
 Justice, however, forces us to say that the beginning was the 
 worst. Save that exception, the meals have thus far all come 
 up to the standard, only ''sea sickness'' on board the train over- 
 took us almost as badly as when the Pennsylvania, of the Red 
 Star Line, rocked us across the briny deep; hence we could 
 not partake as freely as those who were minus the attack. 
 
 During the interval at Glen Summit, between supper and 
 the hour tor retiring, the genial colored porter, George by name, 
 dis[)layed his skill at metaraorphising. In a very short space 
 of time the elegant sitting room was transformed into a dor- 
 mitory. By an ingenious system, berths are improvised in a 
 few minutes ; the beds are comfortable, but the heavy sur- 
 roundings make it oppressively close. Morpheus, that wily fel- 
 low, chose to wink at us, at a disagreeable distance that first 
 night, but during the second the tyrant was vanquished. 
 
But to return to our journey: At midnight the train, with 
 its sleeping freight, was carried safely away from Glen Sum- 
 mit. As daylight broke upon us glimpses of the undulating 
 country were had. Before 9 a. m. the transformation on the car 
 again took place. The bed room once more became a parlor, 
 and thus it changed from one to the other until, thanks to 
 ye gods, we were once more privileged to occupy that amount 
 of space sanctioned by sanitary laws. 
 
 At llornellsville, at 9 a. m., our first breakfast was had. The 
 first grand sight which met our eye were Genesee Falls. 
 Slowly we passed over the bridge. From this advantageous 
 position we looked down into the depths below, longing for 
 only one-half hour to explore some ot the beauties of this en- 
 chanted spot. The season in this part ot New York is not 
 nearly as far advanced as we left it in the Lebanon Valley. 
 The greater part of the country looked bare, cold and uninviting, 
 which served to bring out as prominently as possible the 
 stump fences, those great molar teeth, as it were, set on an 
 edge, so common here and in Canada. Crossing the Suspension 
 Bridge over the Niagara, we found ourselves at Clifton in 
 time for dinner, and not for breakfast, as is stated in the 
 Itinerary. The delay from the start became more disagreeable 
 the farther on we went. Throuo-h Canada we flew amidst 
 the falling drops, and fields covered with water. With the 
 short seasons common here, the question arose in our mind, 
 whether or not anything beyond the famous Canada thistle 
 could be raised. We pause for a reply. 
 
 Night came up)on as so speedily that the most interesting 
 feature of the trip trom Philadelphia to Chicago was a failure 
 for the want ot daylight, viz : the crossing of the St. Clair 
 river, to Port Huron, where the train is taken in three sections 
 across the stream on a boat. 
 
 Chicago, thou truly great city of the West. What massive 
 houses, what adornments are thine ! In the morning of May 
 1st we took a long walk through the principal parts of the 
 city, and in the afterno«>n a drive along the lake, through the 
 famous Lincoln Park, out Wabash and Michigan avenues, the 
 favorite drives of the city. On these avenues some of the 
 finest residences in the world may be seen. We use this 
 term with impunity, for we deem them an impossibility to 
 be surpassed. W^e visited the water works, which are consid- 
 ered among the wonders of the world : the stone Tower on 
 one side of the street, and the structure on the other, in which 
 
are the four powerful engines, three being in motion when we 
 were there, with a wonderful pumping capacity of millions of 
 gallons daily, have the appearance of two beautiful churches, so 
 massively and elaborately are they constructed. This morning 
 we went over and under the Chicago river, the latter by the 
 La Salle tunnel. The city to-day has by no means the appear- 
 ance ot an Eastern Sunday, but very European-like. Business 
 is done until noon the same as during the week. 
 
 We leave this city to-morrow, at 9 a. m., for a five days' 
 run, in a Pullman Palace car, our next resting place being 
 Sante Fe, from which point we hope to write to you again. 
 
 ILiETTE^Ft II. 
 
 Santa Fe, N. M., May 8, 1886. 
 
 Dear Courier : — In simply stating that 1,772 miles have been 
 traveled in six days, the reader can form only a faint 
 conception of the work actually accomplished. Reminiscences 
 of the past week shine out so vividly that we can scarcely 
 find it in our heart to cancel any, yet our letter would be- 
 come interminable, and we should be censured for the un- 
 warrantable freedom we would allow ourselves of your valua- 
 ble paper, were we to make a note of all, hence a few 
 points must suffice. 
 
 Let us return to Chicago, where unexpectedly we were 
 privileged to visit many places of interest after our first to 
 you was written. In the afternoon of May 2nd, in company 
 with a jovial band of Quakers, work at sight-seeing was con- 
 tinued and prosecuted with genuine American activity, which, 
 as is universally known, is neither slow or routine-like. South 
 Park was our destination. After riding for hours in the street 
 cars, making but one change, and all for the consideration of 
 ten cents, we were brought to the Park, which is a rival of 
 Lincoln Park. Here we found a motley assembly enjoying the 
 exhilarating sprifig air ; the aristocracy of the city rolled and 
 rumbled in all kinds of equipages, and horsemen galloped on 
 beautiful steeds. In this pleasant spot, so skilfully laid out, 
 with broad walks and drives, and where, when the season is 
 further advanced, are scattered over these green lawn beds ot 
 beautiful flowers, artistically arranged, fountains springing up in 
 fairy-like nooks, artificial lakes, &c., everything contributes its 
 little towards the grandeur of the whole. We could have 
 
8 
 
 spent hours here, but our time was limited, hence a run for 
 the " dummy " was made, which took us in the neighborhood 
 of Michigan Avenue, where we feasted our eyes upon hundreds 
 of lovely homes. On we strolled, regardless of the time, until 
 the shadows of night began to overtake us, and we found our- 
 selves three miles from the Sherman House. 
 
 After tea we ascain continued our work. Although it was 
 already 8.30, p. m., we still had much to see, and having for 
 our guide a courteous lawyer, a resident of the city, we received 
 much valuable information. 
 
 Much of the ground on which Chicago's most massive build- 
 ings are standing is made ground to the depth of from twenty 
 to thirty feet. 
 
 If we at all compare the destroj^ed city with the present, 
 it is because we find it so quickly built up over its grave. 
 The First National Bank, the largest building of its kind in 
 the world, was opened expressly for our inspection. The safe 
 vaults, with solid iron doors closed by a lock which 
 defies the skill of the most accomplished burglar, would have 
 opened of itself for us had we waited until 8 o'clock Mon- 
 day morning. In the Columbia Theatre the Mikado was 
 performed for the benefit of non-church goers. We saw noth- 
 ing but the entrance of this building, which was grand in 
 every particular. This theatre, by the way, received its name 
 in this wise: When Miss Terry, the actress, came to the 
 city she was asked to name it, when she exclaimed, "Hail 
 Columbia !" The Board of Trade, in which colossal fortunes 
 are made and lost in the twinkling of an eye, is another of 
 the many wonders of the city. It has a tower 375 feet high, 
 upon which is placed a shi[» weighing 600 pounds. A coronet, 
 illuminated with numerous gas jets, encircles the top. We 
 will make mention of one more building, and that must suf- 
 fice for Chicago, viz: the Palmer ilouse. According to the 
 judgment of several connoisseurs, the attractions of this house 
 are unsurpassed. Its world-famed barber pirlor, of polished 
 and richly-colored marble, with its four or five hundred silver 
 dollars imbedded in the marble fioor; its five thousand dollar 
 wash-stand which is supported by fine Mexican onyx pillars, 
 all contrive to make it a treasure house. This room alone is 
 lit up with several hundred electric burners. The parlors are 
 elegantly furnished, the di ning rooms are rich in highly-polished 
 marble. The whole was constructed at a cost of three millions 
 of dollars. 
 
But we must leave this gem of the West and hasten on 
 cur journey to Kansas City. At 9 a. m., Monday, May 3, we 
 resumed our journey over the Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific 
 lUiilway. That superb sheet of water, the Mississippi, was 
 crossed at Rock Island and Davenport. At various places its 
 banks were overflowed. Monday night was spent in the cars. 
 What a solitude spread around us ! A tremendous thunder 
 storm was hanging o'er our heads, as the sky darkened and 
 peal after peal arose, together with the puffing, hissing noise 
 of the engine, deafening us with their uproar. Zig-zag light- 
 ning lit up the heavens at intervals, but in safety we were 
 borne on until 8 a. m., when Kansas City was reached. — 
 There we spent about two hours. First we took a carriage 
 ride around the city; afterwards a ride on the cable road. — 
 The progress of this city is like that of all Western cities — 
 wonderful ! Real estate, which last fall brought eight thou- 
 sand dollars, is to-day worth twenty thousand. Its meat mar- 
 ket is as good, if not superior, to that of Chicago. It, how- 
 ever, lacks a public park. The climate during the last fifteen 
 years has changed considerably. There is more rain, owing to 
 the planting of trees. 
 
 LETTEI?. III. 
 
 Dear Courier : — After leaving Kansas City, Tuesday morning, 
 May 5th, with the sun shining and the rain pouring at in- 
 tervals, the time was pleasantly spent in the Palace Car, in 
 writing letters, talking, playing euchre, and last, though not 
 least, in having the youthful crayon sketchist of the party 
 deftly wielding her pencil as a good subject chanced to strike 
 her fancy. Had we confidence enough in our own taste, it 
 would be a pleasure to dwell for a little time on these pro- 
 ductions — for the opportunity is tempting, but we dare not 
 indulge, knowing that as a rule artists are sensitive, and our un- 
 cultivated taste might bring forward what should be left in the 
 shnde, and leave untouched that which would give character; 
 Therefore we must deny ourselves this delight. Dinner and 
 supper were taken at the dining stations along the line — the 
 former at Topeka, the latter at Newton. These dining rooms 
 are owned by the railway company, and are under skilful 
 management. At all where meals were taken thus far, entire 
 satisfaction has been given. 
 
10 
 
 Before leaving Newton, a gentleman from this town paid our 
 car a short visit, and in genuine western style gave us much 
 and interesting information about the place. But twelve years 
 ago, where there is now a flourishing town, buttaloes ran at 
 large, and at the present day Indians come to the market 
 place to trade horses. 
 
 Wednesday, May 6, after a tolerably good night's rest, we 
 awoke in the uninviting region of Western Kansas, near 
 Coolridge, having passed Dodge City during the night. The 
 sun was just peeping above the eastern horizon, (we are 
 very early risers, when out upon the prairies.) What a scene 
 met our eyes ! Over a broad expanse of country, without a 
 habitation in view, hundreds of cattle were lying dead, hav- 
 ing been frozen during the severe winter months. It was in- 
 deed, a sad, sad sight. Miles and miles of prairie land were 
 passed, with nothing but the sage bush, cactus and yucca, 
 scattered everywhere. Sometimes, however, to vary the mo- 
 notony, emigrants living in tents were brought upon the scene. 
 Surely the country here appeared to us for no good save to 
 build railroads, as few bridges and no tunnels would need be 
 constructed. 
 
 At La Junta, Col., where breakfast was had, the snowy 
 range came in view, making a pleasing and prominent object 
 in the landscape. Every new feature was welcomed with de- 
 light. At South Pueblo, after dinner, we got ourselves in 
 readiness for a visit to the Veta Pass and Toltec Gorge, via 
 Denver & Rio Grande Railway. A change of cars was nec- 
 essary, as we were going on a narrow guage road. This side 
 excursion was the crowning feature of the week. Between 
 South Pueblo and Chuchara the heat was very oppressive. — 
 Near the station of San Carlos we saw the country so smooth 
 that we doubt whether it can be anywhere surpassed. As far 
 as the eye could reach, with nothing to obstruct the view, an 
 open stretch of country, like an immense ocean lay before U3. 
 However, at La Veta Pass the tableau changed. Here we 
 beheld the two Spanish Peaks, (two-and-a half miles high and 
 twelve miles distant,) standing out in bold relief. At the La 
 Veta Station the ground was covered with snow, which gave 
 considerable amusement to some of the passengers, who in- 
 dulged in the sports oi mid-winter, in the budding month of 
 May. The train now began to climb the mountain steeps. — 
 The two beautifully snow-covered Spanish Peaks kept flitting 
 now here, now there — one second in front of you, the next 
 
11 
 
 instant behind — so winding is the road. The trees looked 
 like patches of green, so steep became the ascent. The heavy 
 o-rades here almost strike terror to one's hearts, but no thousrht 
 of danger was permitted to be indulged in. As one of the 
 passengers remarked, '4f they could build the road we can 
 ride over it." When we reached the famous Mule Shoe 
 Curve, neither the engine nor any car, save the one we were 
 in, could be seen from our car windows. Imagine anything 
 more daring if you can ! On this wonderfully-graded road, 
 which goes obliquely, or in fact just any way it pleases, up 
 the steep mountain side, a single false turn would plunge 
 everything down an incline, from whence few would return to 
 tell the tale. The train follows the windings of the moun- 
 tains, now clinging to the side, then suspended above preci- 
 pices, sharp angles, bold curves, plunging into narrow gorges 
 from which exit seems impossible— on, on, until an elevation 
 of 9,393 feet is reached ! Here we began to feel a tightness 
 on the chest; respiration became a task. After the west slope 
 of the range is gained, the immense San Louis valley which 
 consists of 18,000 square miles, is entered. The Sierra Blanca, 
 which at the present day claims to put all other peaks in 
 the shade, having an elevation of 14,464 feet, soon comes into 
 view. 
 
 During the day dark clouds threatening us with a snow 
 storm hung ominously over our heads. A slight feathery 
 sprinkle would not have been objectionable, but it would have 
 been no fun had we been snowed in. The views from the 
 top of the mountains are marvelous. With the exception of 
 a few shanties and dug-outs and at long intervals a little bit 
 of open sunny cultivated patch. Nature stands alone in all 
 her niajesty. Passengers are often tempted to stand on the 
 rear platform while making this trip to the Veta Pass, a 
 position at all times dangerous, but is particularly so here, on 
 account of the frequent and sharp curves. The conductor's 
 story is that during thirty-three years of railroad service, he 
 saw thirty persons thrown from that perilous position. This 
 did not seem to frighten those who were determined to see 
 all there was to be seen from this desirable point. 
 
 It is also told as a fact that in making the Mule Shoe 
 Curve, it frequently breaks off corners of the last car. 
 Whether these western stories are a myth, like that of the 
 *Miitle hatchet," we are unable to say. 
 
12 
 
 Dear Courier: — That no country can coaipare with America 
 in its richness of natural wonders, we were forced to admit 
 after our return from Toltec Gorge, Col. The praises of Ni- 
 agara Falls, the Natural Bridge of Virginia, the Yosemite 
 Valley have become familiar to every school boy and girl, 
 and their attractions have been sei forth in such glowing and 
 attractive terms, that would lead the unsophisticated to be- 
 lieve that nothing grander in Nature could exist. But not 
 so. The praises of Toltec Gorge can be sung for years ere 
 all its beauties will lose their freshness. 
 
 But we have been anticipating: let us retrace our thoughts 
 to Alamosa, where in a car upon a side track we spent the 
 night of Ma}^ 5, prior to our visit to the famous Gorge. We 
 left our crowded sleeping quarters very early in the mornino;, 
 and were amply repaid for the sacrifice, if there was any, for 
 Old Sol certainly did magnificently on this memorable occa- 
 sion. A more gorgeous sunrise we never saw. The genial 
 proprietor of the Victoria Uouse, where we took our break- 
 fast, prepared us for the sudden burst. There was nothing 
 gradual about it. In an instant the snow-clad Sierra Blanca 
 was enveloped in a ball of fire, glistening like myriads of 
 jewels, while the orb scintillated more brilliantly than ever. 
 The exhilarating pure morning air invigorated us to such an 
 extent and sharpened our appetites, that full justice was done to 
 the morning meal, and well was it for us that such was the 
 case, for our dinner hour came not, until three hours beyond 
 the noon-day stroke. 
 
 At 7:40 a m.. May (3, we were all ready for a visit to the 
 Gorge. The party left in two sections. After passing through 
 miles ot the desolate and worthless-looking country of the San 
 Luis Valley, with the beautiful blue Colorado sky above our 
 heads, (a dangerous rival of sunny Italy,) we find ourselves 
 entering ui>on an elevated scene, when the grandeur gradually 
 becomes indescribable. Whoever had any idea that the Rocky 
 Mountains could be so satisfactorily seen! What skillful engi- 
 neering is here displayed! Truly the work of man conmiands 
 our admiration, as well as that of Nature. 
 
 What glorious views we had continually before our eyes; 
 could we but have caught it all on a canvass ! All around 
 this majestic landscape the high -peaked mountains boldly as- 
 cended and descended, sometimes appearing to run into each 
 other, then in an opposite direction, as the railway mounted 
 
13 
 
 higher and higher, up the steep and heavy grades until a 
 plunge through the tunnel landed us upon a platform with 
 the culminating point of the Gorge before us. What excla- 
 mations of surprise broke upon the silent air! Here, upon an 
 elevation of nine thousand five hundred feet above the level 
 of the sea, Nature's painter and sculptor labored lovingly to- 
 gether to give us one of their rarest gems. From what other 
 place on earth does the eye range over more that is grand 
 and beautiful ! 
 
 Truly, if there are sermons in stones, there are in those of 
 Toltec Gorge. Looking around us in the shadow of this 
 eventful day's sun, what visions flitted through the mind ! 
 Human trouble seemed but a momentary annoyance, yet, as 
 the tooting and hissing sound of the engine informed us, 
 that human happinesss was just an evanescent, for it reminded 
 us of the fact that we must hasten to take our parting glances 
 ere resuming our journey. We once more admired Nature's 
 pondrous masonry. What a chasm extended between it and 
 ourselves! We feared to venture too near, for the motion of 
 the train had slightly toyed with our equilibrium, yet we 
 dared for a moment to catch a glimpse of the raging, rush- 
 ing waters in the great abyss. Little shrubs ventured here 
 and there to sprout out of crevices, but these did little to- 
 wards softening the stern aspect of the CliiFs. 
 
 Here in the midst of Nature's work, standing solitary 
 against the blue heavens, bravely facing the winter storms and 
 kissing the summer breezes, stands a monument in memory of 
 the beloved and lamented Garfield. For a moment this trib- 
 ute of respect swells the heart with pride and sorrow, un- 
 consciously forcing tears to the eyes. It was erected by mem- 
 bers of the National Association of General Passenger and 
 Ticket Agents, who held burial services on this epot, Sep- 
 tember 26, 1881. A more solemn, imposing and impressive 
 spot could not have been chosen anywhere on the face of the 
 earth. 
 
 We continued our journey once more, in reverse or- 
 der, again enjoying the magnificent scenery. In imagination 
 we peopled these mountains. How grandly villages would nes- 
 tle in many of those spurs and declivities! How a convent 
 bell would echo and re-echo among: these silent hills ! But 
 all was hushed. No sign of life, save now and then a prai- 
 rie dog perched upon its little mound, or galloping along, run- 
 nino- a race with the eno:ine. 
 
14 
 
 In this wild and picturesque Colorado it is said that per- 
 fect harmony prevails among the rattlesnakes, prairie dogs and 
 owls, who live together in one home. 
 
 On our return to Alamosa, we witnessed a genuine Cow 
 Boy performance, which was given for our special benefit, and 
 which was enjoyed with such an extravagance of tun as was 
 delightful to behold. Seated on Mustan^^ ponies, they dashed 
 up and down the street, throwing the lasso right and lett, 
 taking in men, dogs, and finally each other, with such dex- 
 terity as could only be acquired by considerable practice. 
 Although tall stories of the doings of these boys often reach 
 the east, we were assured by one, not of them, that they 
 were a good set of fellows. Dudes, however, must give them 
 a wide berth, as their high hats make interesting targets. 
 
 Monday morning. May 7, found us at El Moro station, so 
 named from the castle-shaped rocks near by. Here we left 
 the Narrow Guage Road, and were welcomed, by our very 
 accommodating porter Sam, back to our old quarters, on the 
 Atchinson, Topeka and Santa Fe road. 
 
 Dear Courier : — The first interesting feature which arrested 
 our attention after crossing the line between Colorado and New 
 Mexico was the little white house of Dick Wooten. The 
 Sante Fe Trail, which proved a bonanza for '•'• Uncle Dick" (as 
 he is familiarly called) until its formidable rival, the steam 
 engine, came on the stage, is seen for many miles. As the 
 toll gate at Uncle Dick'^ house opens only after $1.50 has 
 been dropped into the coffer, one would suppose that its cus- 
 todian would, at the ripe old age of sevetity-five, be num- 
 bered among the money kings of the west ; but not so. It 
 appears that in his younger days, when money came thick 
 and fast. Uncle Dick was numbered among the sporting men 
 of that day. Expensive trips to San Francisco were often 
 indulged in, speedily diminishing the heap. 
 
 The road here is exceedingly steep, so much so that it re- 
 quires a sixty-five ton engine to surmount it. At 8 a. m., 
 Raton, our breakfast station, was reached. As we began the 
 day four hours previously, we were rather a hungry crowd. 
 Our disappointment was indescribable when w^e discovered that 
 we arrived two hours ahead of time. There was nothinor left 
 
15 
 
 for us to do save eat the atmosphere, which we did while 
 strolling up and down the platform. 
 
 Near Wagon Mound we saw the first red man. " Ah, an 
 Indian," was the exclamation which went the rounds and 
 caused not a little amusement long after the object of our ad- 
 miration w^as left in the distance. 
 
 Between here and Las Vegas hundreds of dead cattle are 
 lying around, victims of the freshet which visited this section 
 a month ago. Our next halting place was Las Vegas. We re- 
 mained here long enough to glean a few points w^hich may 
 be of interest, as well as encouragement, to the progressive 
 city of Lebanon. It took the place exactly eight years to be- 
 come a city. That number of years ago it consisted of one 
 house, and that an adobe or mud house ; to-day it has a regu- 
 lar horse car line connecting East and West. 
 
 Las Vegas is amply supplied with water pipes and sewers, 
 gas, telphone, in fact abounds in all modern conveniences. — 
 Several very fine houses. Queen Anne style, are among its 
 adornments. 
 
 At 3 p. m.. Las Vegas Hot Springs station, situated six 
 miles from the city, bearing the same name, was reached. — 
 Here we took dinner and supper at the Hot-springs Hotel. 
 The beautiful Montezuma House, which fell a prey to the 
 flames last August, is being a speedily rebuilt by the insur- 
 ance companies in which it was protected to the amount of 
 two hundred thousand dollars. Over one hundred difierent 
 mechanics were at work. We went over the greater part of 
 the building, and found it superior to many city hotels. — 
 Here are found the electric light, steam heat, telephone, ele- 
 vator, elegant wood work, &c. All this display in a place 
 that can scarcely boast of a dozen houses. However, the at- 
 tractions here are the great number of medicinal springs, and 
 their charming surroundings. No less than forty have been 
 discovered. Twenty-five ot this number have been neatly ex- 
 cavated and walled up, so to as make them easy lor access. 
 No. 17, one of the hottest, has a temperature of 160. There 
 are two bath houses. The one most interesting to us was the 
 one exclusively used for mud baths. We learned that patients 
 usually take one bath a day, the mud being prepared in this 
 wise: first, it is carefully sieved, so as to free it from all 
 sticks and stones ; then a batter is made by mixing it with 
 sulphur water. The bath lasts from twenty minutes to a 
 half an hour, when a massage is used as a reinforcer. We 
 
IG 
 
 came to the conclusion that a graceful yield to the tyrant 
 Death would be more desirable than to light him in this 
 manner. 
 
 Saturday, May 8, at 4 a. m., we had before us Santa Fe, 
 the capital of New Mexico. At a seasonable hour carriages 
 arrived from the Palace llotel ; hither we were conveyed, 
 where we found pleasant and airy rooms. The population of 
 this city consists of Americans, Mexicans and Indians. It is 
 considered a very healthy place to live, yet this statement is 
 most emphatically contradicted by the figures on the tomb 
 stones, in the silent city on the hill. Very few persons are 
 buried here who were called to join the innumerable caravan 
 at a later age than at fifty. This city is built principally of 
 adobes or mud houses, which are more substantial than ele- 
 gant. In the Historical Society Building are splendid speci- 
 mens of ancient pottery and minerals, an old Mexican guitar 
 and fiddle, a Pueblo cradle, filigree jewelry, and immense 
 pieces of petrified wood (cedar and pine.) This wood is being 
 utilized. When polished it makes beautiful slabs for wash- 
 stands and bureaus. In the reception room of the Sisters' 
 Hospital we were kindly met by sister Sebastian ; but it be- 
 ing Saturday, always a busy day with them, we could not 
 inspect the building. She, however, kindly took us into a 
 neat private adobe, and we were surprised to find how cheer- 
 ful and homelike it was. The walls ure three feet in thick- 
 ness, and very substantial. A modern window was pointed 
 out to us, the opening for which it took a workman a whole 
 day to cut. In Saint Frtincis church, during the Sunday 
 morning service, a curious spectacle was presented : kneeling 
 on the cold marble floor, in clothing faded with sunshine and 
 washed out with showers, many, with no covering for the 
 head, save heavy rusty-looking shawls, others with sun bon- 
 nets of various hues, while here and there peeped gaily-colored 
 ribbons of those more fortunate in this world's goods. There 
 they come in hundreds to pay their morning devotions. It 
 was indeed beautiful to observe how tender were the souls of 
 these men and women towards the Virgin Mother. Though 
 an indolent people with seemingly not a w^hit of ambition in 
 this world, they have a reverence for their sanctuary which 
 touches the beholder. Their principal article of food is Cliili, 
 a red pepper, something similar to ours, though less strong. 
 This is prepared in various ways. Among the curiosities of 
 the city are an old adobe church and house which claim to 
 
17 
 
 be three hundred years old, and an old beggar, one hundred 
 years old. You are asked to pay a certain amount to see 
 the church. You are prepared for this. You step into the 
 old house gratis, but you are told something must be paid to 
 get out. You are surprised at this, but you want to get out, 
 consequently you search for a dime. The old beggar con- 
 scientiously claims to be cnly one hundred years old. He 
 might easily add one or two hundred more, and no one 
 would doubt him, for he looks ancient enough to have been 
 one of Noah's family. lie has vitality enough, however, to 
 hold his hat for hours, in which you can throw as much 
 loose change as you desire. 
 
 The atmosphere of Santa Fe is very clear; three miles be- 
 low the city, the Sierra Blanca peak can be distinctly seen, 
 although it is one hundred and sixty miles distant. The 
 Santa Fe Baldly, a snowcapped mountain, stands out promi- 
 nently. On Sunday morning quite an assembly visited the 
 U. S. Barracks, where an uninteresting drill took place. In 
 the afternoon the military band gave an excellent concert in 
 the square. 
 
 We must not fail to make mention of that faithful patient 
 little animal, the burro, which abounds in this place. They 
 come down the mountain almost hidden underneath the im- 
 mense pile of wood wliich is packed on their backs and sold 
 for twenty -five cents a load. They receive little or no atten- 
 tion from their owners. They eat anything and everything 
 they can find, and thrive on it, — hence are very profitable. 
 
 Dear Courier: — After leaving Santa Fe, New Mexico, and 
 passing through a dreary, dismal, desolate country, with no 
 water, no vegetation, but myriads of boulders, giving the be- 
 holder some conception of a terrific volcano disturbance which 
 luiture must at one time have indulged in, the train reached the 
 station of Wallace, N. M. Indians were observed running 
 from every direction and congregating on the platform, their 
 object being to sell pottery and bits of stones to the tourists. 
 Those specimens of the wild tribe of the west were most em- 
 I)hatically the queerest and dirtiest-looking people it has ever 
 been our lot to behold. It appeared incredible that they were 
 actually in their ordinary costume, and not masquerading for 
 our benefil:. They were soon surrounded by the multitude 
 
18 
 
 that swarmed out of the cars, but the agent accompaiiyiug 
 the excursion, evidently not desiring the Eayrnond party in- 
 creased, dropped a word here and there which had a magic 
 effect upon the spectators. The Indian was immediatel^'^ 
 placed in quarantine. As we continued on our journey nu- 
 merous Pueblos^ or Indian villages, were passed, and wherever 
 the train halted, if but for a second, one or more of the 
 tribe, male and female, would make a detour of the cars, 
 trying to sell their ware. A leper would have been about as 
 welcome. Every object they offered for sale, whether large o" 
 small, was the same price, viz: tin cinis — that being their 
 nearest intelligent approach to the English language ; however, 
 a nickle was not despised, when a bargain was attempted. 
 
 At Albuequerque, N. M., where on May 10th we took din- 
 ner and supper, we had an excellent opportunity of making 
 the acquaintance of an Indian lad who had been given the 
 advantages of one ot the training schools, those noble institu- 
 tians planned for the welfare of this rapidly-diminishing race. 
 He was but seventeen years of age, spoke English with re- 
 markable fluency, and seemed to appreciate what had been 
 done for him. His responses were perfectly frank and kind. 
 If we may be allowed to judge the race from this sample, 
 then surely we cannot but conclude that they are as bright 
 and intelligent a people as any, when o])port unities are af- 
 forded them to develop their talents. 
 
 Alburquerque is a dull, uninteresting town, almost buried 
 in sand. It consists of a new and old part, and is probably 
 dignified by the title of city. A horse car line extends from 
 one part to the other. Drug and jewelry stores occupy the 
 same room. l!^othing less than a nickle is in circulation. We 
 visited the public school building, in which are four depart- 
 ments. The children are taught English and Spanish. Some 
 thirty little girls sang a Spanish li3^mn very sweetly for us. 
 The schools are in charge of the Sisters. 
 
 Between Manuelito and Allantown the line between New 
 Mexico and Arizona is crossed. As we sped on through the 
 latter, what a perfect enjoyment was ours in Nature's changing 
 scenery ! For miles acres of sand beds are seen, with now and 
 then a green waste, over which the nimble jack rabbit skips, 
 with nothing to check its progress. Then, beautiful to be- 
 hold ! acres of wild flowers — a perfect wilderness of purple, scarlet 
 and gold! With what delicate skill and accuracy Nature has 
 fashioned them all! Now we come to mountain peaks and 
 
19 
 
 rocks, producing the most fantastic forms, such as castles, towers, 
 pyramids, monuments, giants and animals, while the frolicsome 
 clouds o'er head, sometimes dipping far below the sloping range, 
 add a most exquisite and effective contrast. Thus the scene is 
 ever changing. 
 
 At the Canon Diabolo, where a beautiful and expensive iron 
 bridge spans the deep, yaw^ning, crooked chasm, a terrific fiow^er 
 massacre took j)lace, in which hundreds of innocent little plants 
 came to a sudden and untimely end. Although a very high 
 wind was prevailing at the time, it did not prevent Nature's 
 lovers from gathering between twent^^-five and thirty different 
 varieties of courageous prairie flowers, and at the same time 
 picking up here and there some worthless fragment of the 
 gorge. A yucca stalk, in brilliant bloom, was carried away 
 in triumph. It was scarcely more than four feet in height, 
 yet eight hundred and eighty flowers and buds were actually 
 counted upon its stem ! This specie of palm, with its beauti- 
 fully lily-shapen flower, is found here in great abundance, as 
 is also the cactus. To these plants is assigned the peaceful 
 duty of brightening up the desert waste long after the my- 
 riads of varied-hued flowers are left in the distance. 
 
 At Barstow we took our first Golden State repast. It was 
 a memorable event. What a swarm of insects greeted us ! 
 It was nothing else than the ubiquitous fly, hovering round 
 and about us, exasperating us with their melancholy buzz. 
 Long ere the meal was over, we concluded that this must be 
 the winter rendezvous of the entire fly family, and w^e ar- 
 rived before they branched out to their summer quarters. 
 
 On our arrival at Colton, California, we began to realize 
 that we were indeed in the land of precious metals, golden 
 fruits and golden fields. Already the wheat was fit for the 
 garner. What a startling contrast to the luxuriant prairies 
 we had so recently seen ! both to be admired and enjoyed, 
 both scenes well worth gazing at. Orange and lemon groves 
 became numerous. Immense vineyards skirted both sides of 
 the road. It is to be regretted that this is not the season 
 of the vintage, for there promises to be an abundance of the 
 luscious grape. 
 
 At Ontario we came within a hair-breadth of having a 
 terrible collision. We were waiting, as we thought, on a side 
 track for the regular train to pass ; the fortunate discovery 
 that we were not, was made when the train was already 
 stcamino; in. 
 
20 
 
 From Pomona to Los Angeles the country is admirably 
 tilled. We were very forcibly reminded by the eucalyptus, the 
 pepper, the palm, the mistletoe, &c., that we were not in a 
 Keystone State climate. The houses are most beautifully 
 nestled within the shrubbery, and are so overrun with blos- 
 soming creepers, and surrounded by rustic arbors, that they 
 grow with remarkable beauty. 
 
 We were nearing Los Angeles. This fact was made known 
 by Sam, the porter, who began to eye one and all in a sad 
 and anxious manner. We were about to part — would perhaps 
 never see each other again. What would the harvest be ? Ln 
 short, the brushing season was at hand, and strange as it 
 may seem, so dirty were we that fifty cents' worth of mother 
 earth blew off of every one of us. Our dusky friend was 
 happy. 
 
 LETTER -^XX. 
 
 Los Angeles, May 13, 1886. 
 Dear Courier : — It was not the station of Los Angeles, 
 neither its surroundings, that monopolized our attention and 
 admiration when we alighted at this city of the Queen of the 
 Angels, but a panorama in which, though unconsciously, one 
 of the most eminent of the tourists figured most conspicuously. 
 The omnibuses of the Pico House were awaiting our arrival ; 
 these were quickly filled to overflowing by those who were 
 nearest to them. However, all could not be accommodated, 
 hence, it was necessary for some to wait for the second trip. 
 A prominent divine, taking in the situation at a glance, and 
 evidently not relishing the idea of playing second any- 
 where, and whose gigantic proportions enabled him to detect a 
 desirable location among the shawl-straps, hand satchels and 
 umbrellas on top of one .of the omnibuses, was observed to 
 quicken his loose, shambling gait, and laying aside all clerical 
 dignity, with one step and a half bounded lightly to the top, 
 geographically in a good position to represent an excellent 
 burlesque on the Bartholdi statue of Liberty Enlightening the 
 World. It was a sculpturesque, as well as a pictorial, departure, 
 for so completely was he transformed to an outer world, that 
 not a sign of recognition did he deign to offer, in exchange to 
 a kindly social warmth which copiously flitted up to his serial 
 heights. This hardness of heart made the scene doubly ludi- 
 
21 
 
 crous and indelible. Such was our triumphal entry into the 
 Paradise of Southern California. 
 
 On the day afrer our arrival, at 9.15 a. m., we were one of 
 a jjarty of fourteen who clambered into an immense five-seated 
 stage, occupjnng one of the two choice seats in the driver's 
 domain. Our destination was Pasadena, the most attractive 
 suburb of Los Angeles, situated eight miles distant, and chris- 
 tened the gem of this county. The four horses — Jack, Dick, 
 Prince and Fanny — had an arduous journey before them, but 
 they neighed cheerfully in the clear golden air, as they bore the 
 merry party along from whose hearts this soft exhilarating 
 climate was bound to lift every care. Our road led us through 
 Lincoln Park, which plot of ground was bequeathed to the 
 city, and in which there is any amount of room for improve- 
 ment. Here are found in great abundance the live oak, poison 
 oak, pepper, English walnut and numerous other trees. One 
 would suppose from the appearance of this wild spot, that 
 game would abound here, but beyond quail nothing is found 
 within a radius of fifty miles. The "Raymond," a beautiful 
 hotel built on a magnificent elevation in the center of the 
 San Gabriel Valley, and which will be opened for the first 
 time in November, promises to be one of the attractions of 
 Pasadena. The scenery from this hill alone is worth a journey 
 from the east. The Raymond parties will hereafter find this 
 house their Mecca, as the limited hotel accommodations in Los 
 Angeles have greatly detracted from the otherwise most attract- 
 ive part of the excursion. We were considerably crowded at 
 the Pico House, so much so that every nook and corner were 
 occupied, and much dissatisfaction prevailed. It was here that 
 small rooms yielded a big per centage. The " Raymond " prom- 
 ises to be equipped with every convenience and luxury, and 
 so much confidence has the public in whatever Mr. Raymond 
 undertakes, that already nearly all of the three hundred rooms 
 are engaged for the winter of '86. 
 
 At the Sierra Madre Villa, six miles from Pasadena, we 
 took our lunch. This villa is situated on nearly the highest 
 part of the foot hills which stretch along the valley, and the 
 farthest way round is the only way to get there. It is beau- 
 tifully situated amid orange and lemon orchards and ever- 
 blooming flowers. It is here that geranium leaves measuring 
 nine and a quarter inches may be carried off. A drive 
 through the famous Rose ranch and a visit to Mr. Adams' 
 home were the principal features of our afternoon drive. 
 
22 
 
 Here we were privileged to (j^o to the orchard and pluck 
 the golden luscious fruit. The Adams cottage and yard are 
 marvels of loveliness. Here flourish ever-blooming roses of 
 many varieties, the giant of all being a lamarque which en- 
 velops the entire side and roof of the house, and the trunk 
 of which measures twenty inches m circumference. All flow- 
 ers and shrubs do well here; even the tender fuchsia attains 
 a truly marvelous perfection. Will those rose-embowered 
 homes in Los Angeles ever be forgotten ! In this sun land, 
 what ornamentation the soil can be made to produce ! The 
 grounds around the houses are arranged in a profusely orna- 
 mented style, magnificent hedges of Cyprus, pomegranate, 
 lime, geraniums and calla lillies, (of the latter we counted 
 two hundred flowers in one stretch,) grace the cicy. During 
 the Flower Festival held during the month of March, wagon 
 loads of blooming roses were brought to the city. The Cyprus 
 hedge is gracefully trimmed with mathematical precision, into 
 various fantastic shapes ; magnificent palms, with their fan- 
 like branches, tower many feet \n the air. A Palmetto, a 
 century old, is pointed out as a curiosity. The old Mission 
 church of San Gabriel was also included in our day's excur- 
 sion. The cold interior contains nothing of interest. Dark 
 oil paintings hang grimly against the roughly-plastered walls. 
 The rude gallery at the rear is entered by an outer stone 
 staircase. But four of the six bells which formerly hung in 
 the tower are still there. The two missing ones are supposed 
 to have been carried back to Spain as relics, they having been 
 cast in that country. The beautiful waving pepper trees al- 
 most hide the misty old building on the outside. The old 
 Spanish woman who acts as guide to the visitors, and the 
 opening and closing of the doors during certain hours of the 
 day, closed the venerable old doors most indigriantly upon 
 our backs, and refused those of the party who arrived later 
 an admission. However, after a great deal of persuasion, ac- 
 companied by silver, they were again swung open and the 
 rude interior inspected. 
 
23 
 
 I-.ETTEE. -^XXX. 
 
 Dear Courier: — From the charming city of Los Angeles, 
 with its beautiful sunny climate — the Mecca in which those 
 blessed with ease and abundant means, can bask in spring- 
 like sunshine and escape the discomforts of snow and 
 ice during the cold winter months — this spot which excels 
 in graceful beauty and general attractiveness — yea, from 
 all this grandeur, coupled with an unfinished lunch, were we 
 most unceremoniously and unnecessarily torn, Monday, May 
 17th, to make the 12:50 train, which was to take us towards 
 the beautiful Yosemite Valley. Again the sleeper Tahoe, which 
 had grown dear (?) to us by past associations, was called 
 into requisition. In this we spent the following night. 
 Scarcely an hour's ride from Los Angeles causes a wonderful 
 transformation in our surroundings. The beautiful valley, with 
 its wav}^ golden fields, is exchanged for the dry desert which 
 is brightened only by the abundant sprinkling of the yucca 
 in full bloom, and a few strange flowers of various hues 
 scattered here and there. At 6 p. m., we arrived at Mohave 
 where we had supper. Atter leaving this station the most in- 
 teresting part of the trip was had in the moonlight, while 
 standing on the platform with a kind and courteous brake- 
 man ready to point out all objects of interest. Within a 
 very short distance seventeen tunnels — one a mile and half in 
 length — were encountered. As we emerged from these gloomy 
 vaults, the transition into the outer world was enchanting. 
 Between the stations Girard and Keene is the famous Loop, 
 one of the most magnificent samples of skilful engineering. 
 The road, after winding around a certain mountain for more 
 than half a mile, passes through that same mountain by means 
 of a tunnel, with the road but a few minutes crossed, right 
 overhead. The approach to this Loop, with the bright moon- 
 light enveloping the earth like folds of graceful drapery, with 
 myriads of sparkling stars dancing in the firmament, with the 
 wind gently swaying the branches of the trees to and fro, 
 all produced a multiplicity of ornament which it is utterly im- 
 possible to describe. 
 
 At the station of Berenda, which was reached some time 
 during the night, our car was left standing in melancholy- 
 silence upon a side track, which, long after daylight had 
 broken upon us, was attached to the train coming from San 
 
24 
 
 Francisco, and we were brought to Raymond, the point from 
 whence stages are taken for the valley. We were still minus 
 our breakfast, but expected to get it at the dining station 
 of this city, therefore our first desire after stepping upon terra 
 firma was to seek the long-coveted meal. We looked to the 
 right — we looked to the left — then north, south, east and west 
 — not a house was in sight, not even a dug-out. While en- 
 deavoring to take in the situation as calmly as possible, our 
 reverie was broken by a musical cry of ''Breakfast ! this way, 
 this way." Hastily glancing in the direction from whence came 
 this welcome strain, we spied a tent with an annex of the same 
 material, the former turning out to be the dining hall, and 
 the latter the kitchen, of this pretentious edifice 1 Stepping 
 inside this movable lodge, we discovered eight tables ladened 
 with the necessaries of life, hidden, as we at first supposed, 
 under black tarlaton, but which when raised responded to the 
 color blue — this chameleon-like change being caused by a fly 
 stampede. It was not long ere the place was christened Fly 
 Ranch, and a historical wag, of the San Francisco party, re- 
 corded the fact that the place was originally intended for a 
 campmeeting, but the Lord not coming, it was decided to 
 convert it into a restaurant tor the Raymond Excursionists — 
 that it was more profitable. 
 
 After our primitive breakfast we stationed ourselves in close 
 proximity to the huge stages which were fully equipped tor 
 the long and tedious journey. There was no difiiculty to find 
 our respective seats, as they had all been selected for us ere 
 our arrival. Only five of the Raymond party occupied seats 
 in the one in which your correspondent was packed, the re- 
 maining six being taken by four gentlemen from the east and 
 two from San Francisco, making, with the driver, a party of 
 twelve. Six horses were necessary to initiate this load into the 
 mysteries of Yosemite staging. The road was so level and in 
 such an excellent condition that we began to treat as fables those 
 horrible hackneyed tales of this valley, but long ere the shades 
 of night began to overtake us we inwardly confessed that 
 half had not been told us. 
 
 The scenery during the entire ride was constantly varied : 
 the rolling hills thickly wooded with beautiful blooming horse 
 chestnut, pine, live oak, manzanita, the gently undulating 
 plains dotted here and there in the landscape, covered with 
 beds of purple, blue, and golden; the graceful mariposa, the 
 queen of the wild flowers, appearing in the different garbs 
 
25 
 
 of white, yellow and pink ; all fhis display offered a pleasing 
 contrast to the wide flat sandy stretch of the Mohave Desert. 
 The great flume, sixty-five miles in length which is a V 
 shaped trough for carrying timber from the mountains to the rail- 
 road, was an interesting feature. The water flows through 
 this passage so swiftly that the sawed timber floats down 
 with wonderful rapidity. These troughs are as useful as they 
 are numerous in the Sierras. The noon-day sun began to 
 torment us with its most scorching rays. The dust at times al- 
 most hid us from sight, and played sad havoc with us and 
 our possessions. The horses moved at such a snail-rate pace, 
 and so many halts were made for their benefit at the num- 
 erous rivulets along the waj^, that many ot the gentlemen 
 started out on foot, while we of the gentler sex, with sub- 
 missive meekness, continued to rock from side to side, re- 
 gardless of the increasing: aches and pains. The splendid 
 and refreshing dinner at Grant's was a welcome and delightful 
 break. After this repast we again climbed into our ap- 
 pointed places, the scenery becoming more and more rugged. 
 Staging in the mountains was beginning to lose its poetry. 
 Sharp and dangerous curves hanging over fearful precipices, 
 around which the six now whirled us with a break-neck ra- 
 pidity, caused the most courageous to become speechless. 
 Through all this tedious tumult it was delightful to catch 
 glimi)ses of the picturesque scenerj^ and especially to regard 
 with vcTieration those noble forest trees. Water, too, was not 
 wanting to add its charms to the scene, for numerous were 
 the released mountain rivulets, which otten came crashing 
 over the rocks, descending several hundred feet; and where 
 trees or rocks had fallen across their path, most pleasing min- 
 iature water falls would be afforded, their gentle spray some- 
 times kissing our dusty faces with such a degree of affection 
 as would remind us of the fact, as we looked at our compan- 
 ions, that were slowly, but surely, on the verge of being con- 
 verted into terra cotta images. But all things have an end, 
 so had our first day of thirty-nine miles of staging. We were 
 salely landed at the Wawona House, at 8 p. m., a dusty, 
 tired, hungry party, where we spent the night of May 18th, 
 prior to our arrival in the valley. 
 
26 
 
 Dear Courier: — At 6:30 a. m., in the morning of May 19th, 
 after a refreshing night's rest, and a breakfast which left no 
 room for fault-finding, together with an abundant supply of 
 Faith and Hope mixture, we were once more prepared to con- 
 tinue our rough journey over the Sierras, now made familiar 
 to us by one day's experience. We were one of the party of 
 thirty- three pilgrims, who were moving to and fro on the 
 piazza of the beautiful Wawoua Hotel, or Clark's, as it is 
 more familiarly known, awaiting the arrival of the stages 
 which were to carry us twenty six miles distant into the 
 heart of the great Yosemite Valley. Ere the clock struck 
 seven three stages, each drawn by six spirited animals, flew 
 in front of the hotel with a grand sweep and flourish, put- 
 ting to shame the timid-hearted traveler. All were soon again 
 snugly huddled up against each other in their respective 
 places, and off we flew, midst the farewells and good uislies 
 of the proprietors and their aids. Our coach on this mem- 
 orable occasion ^va8 a grand improvement on the one in 
 which, on the preceding day, we had been tossed, tumble*! and 
 slammed until our muscles were stiff. This one w.is of recent 
 manufacture, and everything bespoke ease and comfort. Amonir 
 the six horses into whose keeping our lives were anxiously 
 entrusted, was a little grey one whose imperious manner and 
 cutting gait plainly showed a perfect indifference as to whether 
 school kept or not. He at once attracted notice and suspicion, 
 but the dignity and kindliness of the remaining five reassurd 
 and comforted us, as well as the skillful handling of the ribbons 
 by the careful and experienced driver, at the crack of whose who 
 whip they bounded lightly up the winding mountain path, passed 
 the solemn-looking pines, the curiously-shaped and twisted 
 manzanita, the old oaks — all a continuation of yester- 
 day's scenery, yet so bright and fresh in the sweet moun- 
 tain air. Our course lay up the western slope of tlie 
 Sierra, which we continued to climb on a steep, though 
 easy grade, until we reached summit rock, where we were at 
 an elevation of over six thousand feet. Here we found vege- 
 tation scant, and snow lying around in good-sized patches, 
 while the giant trees, way down the precipice, appeared like 
 sprouts. From this point we began to descend — the views of 
 the hilly country became more grand and |)icturosque at every 
 turn — the capricious windings of the road would sonietin)es 
 
27 
 
 for an instant hide the horses from our sight. Those majes- 
 tic primeval beauties, straight as arrows, covered with luxur- 
 iant foilage, with the graceful green California moss lovingly 
 clinging around the trunk and branches, present a picture 
 peculiarly grand and inspiring. On we sped, without any in- 
 cident foreign to the ordinary routine, until the Thirteen-mile 
 house was reached, where it is customary to cJriange horses 
 when going into the valley. The malicious little grey now 
 began to show his colors, and to such an extent that for a 
 few moments we were thrown into a feverish state of excite- 
 ment. By some tricky manoeuvre four of the six horses 
 were thrown on the ground, while the remaining two strug- 
 gled frantically to extricate themselves from the kicking mass. 
 Fortunatel}^ for us, the stage was in such a position that an 
 immediate upset could be averted. We heard the cry of "jump," 
 but not relishing the idea of leaping several feet to the ground, 
 with the stage rocking from side to side, we paused for an 
 instant, when, joy to behold ! a pair of strong brawny arms 
 were extended, into which it was soon our turn to jump, and 
 we were safely landed. 
 
 The scene here waS greatly enlivened by the meeting of 
 tlie three stages, bearing those who, no doubt, inwardly 
 tlianked heaven that they had done the valley, and were out 
 of it. Our couraoie was now on the wane. From henceforth 
 we were confident our faith in Yosemite stage horses would 
 bo exceedingly limited, yet scarcely one-half hour after our 
 departure from this point, all fear was for the time-being 
 wij)ed from our memory by the bewildering and startling rev- 
 elations of nature which sprang up from every side. We were 
 being gradually schooled for the ineffable loveliness of Inspira- 
 tion I^oint, yet when the sharp curve was made and we found 
 ourselves face to face with the most indescribable vista it has 
 ever been our lot to behold, we found ourselves speechless — 
 not a sound was heard. It was all far beyond our fondest 
 cx[)ectations. What a crowning grandeur is here blended ! 
 No matter how rough and tedious the journey to this remote 
 Art Gallery of Nature, the treasures here depicted more than 
 compensate the horrors endured. Save the rumbling of the 
 stages until a convenient halting place was reached, a solemn 
 stillness pervaded every portion of the landscape. Even the 
 clouds seemed to have gone to sleep upon the towering peaks. 
 Neither pen nor brush can ever satisfactorily bring before the 
 mind's eye a picture of this Wonderland. No matter how 
 
28 
 
 bright and beautiful it is, how near its approach to nature 
 may be, it will disappoint when compared with the original. 
 
 The descent from Inspiration Point to the green level val- 
 ley below is quickly made. The first of the numerous falls 
 which attracted our attention was the long, narrow, graceful 
 Ribbon which playfully gushes from the side of that ponderous 
 mountain of rock known as El Capitan. This rock is 3,300 
 feet high, and has a surface so smooth and regular that it 
 must strike envy to the heart of the advertising wretch, 
 whose brush and pencil would long ere this have profaned 
 its clear bright side, did not the law stand guard. A tree 
 scarcely visible to the naked eye, and which has the appear- 
 ance of a pressed fern leaf, stands on this rock 130 feet high, 
 and is nourished by a quarter acre of ground. On the oppo- 
 site side is the Widows' Tear Fall, so called because its 
 waters sometimes disappear in six weeks' time. The majestic 
 Bridal Veil was tumbling and roaring with ever-varying de- 
 gree, covering us with its spray as we drove by. 
 
 On we went through this beautiful valley, which is one un- 
 broken chain of magnificence, until we arrived at C'ook's, one 
 of the three hotels of this far-away place. Directly opposite 
 this house is the Yosemite, (Grizzly Bear,) the Queen of all the 
 Falls. We had it before us in all its grandeur. It was most 
 copiously fed by the vast supply of snow upon the moun- 
 tains ; the flow of water was terrific; with a mighty and 
 constant thud it kept leaping and dashing down the moun- 
 tain side, plunging into the roaring Merced, which forces its 
 noisy course so grandly through the valley. 
 
 Dear Courier: — What an insurmountable barrier seemed be- 
 twixt us and the outer world when we at last found ourselves 
 safely stored away in the remarkable Yosemite cave, after 
 passing successfully through the beautiful, dangerous and mazy 
 routine of the sixty miles of staging ! 
 
 Seated on the veranda at the Cook hotel on the evening of 
 of our arrival, hedged in by the steep surrounding mountains, 
 welcomed by the stars and greeted by the moon, as they 
 brilliantly and coquettishly emerged from their hiding places, 
 spreading a mellow glow over the enchanted vale — the harmo- 
 
29 
 
 nious chords of the grand Yosemite Fall, mingling its music 
 with the solemn waving and rustling of the branches, all 
 combined to produce such a feelidg of insecurity which was 
 akin to melancholy. It seemed as if we had suddenly dropped 
 into a living tomb but on the morrow, when freed from all 
 fatigue, we took a sixteen-mile drive through this magnificent 
 crevice, we felt ourselves phenomenally invigorated and 
 aroused to an indescribable enthusiasm. The grandeur, the 
 massiveness and variety of scenery excels anything we have 
 ever seen — all is so wonderfully beautiful. 
 
 Bright shone the sun on the radiant afternoon of May 20th, 
 when we visited the foot of the Yosemite, the Cascade, and 
 the Bridal Veil Falls, reaching the latter in time to see it 
 gorgeously arrayed in five most perfect and brilliant rainbows, 
 one of these extending far out over the surrounding foliage. 
 This scene alone is worth a visit to this far-away hollow, and 
 is one, when once seen, can never be erased from the memory. 
 
 The appropriately-christened pinnacles of the sky-piled ma- 
 sonry, such as the Three Brothers, Cathedral Spires, The Sentinel, 
 North and South Pome, together with a countless number of 
 others, were pointed out in rapid succession by the indefatigable 
 driver, as were also nature's strange and grotesque caricatures, 
 such as the Chief of the Valley, the Old Man and Woman, a 
 train of cars, a pair of boots, birds, and animals, all producing 
 boundless amusement as we passed by. 
 
 The one great big hobby of Yosemite travelers is to toil up- 
 ward from the green, lovely valley, to the dizzy height of 
 one or more of the surrounding mountains. We had caught 
 the fever, hence ordered a steed for to-morrow's cavalcade, the 
 objective points being Vernal and Nevada Falls, on an eminence 
 several thousand feet above our heads. 
 
 Donning our soft felt hats, with which we provided our- 
 selves for this occasion, when visiting South J'ueblo, and with 
 hearts made of unyielding texture, together with boasted her- 
 culean strength, we were prepared to take our airy positions, 
 not, however, before taking a drive to that magnificent little 
 sheet of water, known as ^Tirror Lake, In this, one of the 
 loveliest parts of the valley, are found all the requisites for the 
 picturesque. The lake, with its pure clear water, reflects in 
 an inverted position the sky, trees, rocks, mountains — in fact, 
 all surrounding objects. We were in time to see the rising 
 sun glide over the perpendicular cliff several thousand feet 
 overhead. This was a most gorgeous and awe-inspiring pano- 
 
30 
 
 rama. From here we drove to the foot of the rough and 
 rugged trail, where we found our horses. These animals are 
 raised and trained only for these mountain trails ; the}- are no 
 good in the valley, as we found by sad experience on the 
 following day. 
 
 Beseeching the guide to give us a good, gentle animal, a lit- 
 tle grey was brought to fill the bill. We had an aversioii 
 to the color, but allowed ourselves to be lifted upon its back, 
 when like a streak of lightning it whirled us several times 
 around. The onward feeling was still predominant, but we 
 begged ior a less spirited beast to share it with us. It was 
 for this reason that Shot Gun was forthwith introduced as the 
 gentlest, slowest quardruped of the valley. We took to each 
 other philosophically. 
 
 One by one, some twenty in number, trudged up the steep 
 and rocky trail, which was often scarcely more than fifteen 
 inches in width, and so close to the edge of the frightful 
 precipice that at times we forgot to breathe. 
 
 We reached our first halting place at the top of Vernal 
 Fall, without any unusual incident. We lingered in this 
 neighborhood until our time was more than exhausted. We 
 viewed the falls from various positions, never knowing a feel- 
 ing of weariness. Ilere the water in a broad sheet rushes, 
 foams and dashes over an immense table rock, into a huge 
 caldron, casting its feathery spray many feet in the air The 
 exposed rocks at the base of this waterfall are completely 
 covered with the most exquisite moss; rainbows, too, add their 
 charms to the scene. Mounting again our faithful little 
 horses, we commenced work in dead earnest. We soon found 
 that the comparativel}^ easy climbing was at an end. We 
 were still hundreds of feet from the higher falls, and a per- 
 ilous and dangerous aspect was brought before our eyes, when 
 we found courage to raise them heavernvard from our already 
 confused height. Overhanging us were immense crags, appar- . 
 ently ready to crush us into atoms, but in safety we were 
 swung backward and forward up to the coveted spot. Here 
 we found a neat hotel, known as the ISnow House, opposite 
 to which was that mighty cascade, the noble JS'evada Fall I 
 Ilere in dazzling fury a broad, continuous sweep of sparkling 
 foam, whirls and plunges over the tace of a huge precipice. 
 We now began to contemplate the deep solem valley in minia- 
 ture. It was precisely like gazing through an inverted opera 
 glass. Huge trees resembled shrubs ; the houses dotted here 
 
31 
 
 and there appeared like irifancs' toys, while the winding 
 Merced was proportionately insignificant. At length came the 
 final struggle ; it was time to begin the terrific descent, 
 wliich, when compared to the ascent, was as a grain of mustard 
 seed. What noble fortitude w\is required under these trying 
 circumstances ! Never was more delicate attention lavished 
 upon beast than was that of which Shot Gun was the un- 
 grateful recipient on this memorable afternoon, for in spite of 
 all tlie endearing terms showered upon him, he would tanta- 
 lize us, and amuse himself, by indulging in an occasional genu- 
 ine stumble, striking terror to our heart, and seriously dam- 
 aging our courage valves. Inquiry as to the cause of this 
 awkwardness and unsteadiness of limb elicited the start- 
 ling information that Shotty was given to occasional naps, 
 and that it was our duty to see that he was kept awake. 
 This contributed much to the cheerfulness ( ? ) of the occa- 
 sion I We were now steadily working our way down the 
 steep mountain grade, constantly meeting short, sharp, terrify- 
 ing curves, and as a deep yawning chasm lay before us, poor 
 Shot Gun's back was most vigorously beaten to rouse him from 
 his lethargy. There was no monotony in this excursion. — 
 Wlien we recovered our senses sufiiciently to look around us, 
 what pleasant surprises loomed uj) on all sides What a 
 succession of grand and lovely scenes would at times imper- 
 atively demand our attention ! 
 
 How the terrified countenances of the companions in the 
 rear would amuse us as they shot woful gazes at us, when 
 for an instant they dared to raise their orbs trom oft" their 
 horses' ears; but any gaiety on our part would be quickly 
 checked by a jerk and stumble from Shot Gun, who counte- 
 nanced no such levity. 
 
 What memories are recalled when we think of those horse- 
 back journeys up and down those wearisome trails. How our 
 hearts throbbed as our horses deliberately and leisurely walked 
 close to the the edge of the narrow path, to nip the over- 
 hanging branches,, suspending us between heaven and earth 
 in the uncomfortable space between the nose and the saddle. 
 How encouraged and comforted we felt when the faithful 
 guide came to our rescue, and placed us more securely on 
 our perch, assuring us, while humorous smile illuminated his 
 face, that we were doing nobly, and that the worst would 
 soon be over. 
 
32 
 
 Dear Courier: — After a copious discussion, in which the 
 mountain horrors and the opinion of the outside world, if we 
 would., or would not venture up Glacier Point, were carefully 
 weighed, we decided in favor of the latter, and fully de- 
 served the punishment we received for again undertaking such 
 a foolhardy expedition, after our experience of yesterday's 
 trail. 
 
 The tan-colored beast into whose care our life was entrusted 
 on this occasion rejoiced in the sweet name of Molly. Un- 
 like Shot Gun of yesterday's companionship, she was a sprightly 
 walker, keeping us in a constant tremor on account of her 
 eagerness to push forward. 
 
 In justice to our old and worthy friend Shot Gun, we 
 take pleasure in recording the fact that he was not thus de- 
 risively named, but received this euphonious cognomen in his 
 younger days, when he was given in exchange for a so- 
 called weapon. 
 
 The trail to Glacier Point is wider and less rocky than 
 the one leading to the Vernal and Nevada Falls, but the 
 ascent, 3,000 feet above the valley, is more precipitous, 
 in fact almost perpendicular. Ere we had climbed 1,000 feet, 
 we found that we had nothing more than an intensified rep- 
 etition of yesterday's frolic. Up we floundered the steep and 
 slippery path, until we arrived breathless, at Union Point, 
 where with a sigh of relief, we jumped trom Molly's back to 
 allow her a rest, and to give us time to regain our senses, 
 and if possible enjoy the boundless views before us. What 
 glorious light and splendor shone all around this marvelous 
 valley on this beautiful May morning ! What revelations of 
 nature in rarest beauty were held before our eyes for silent 
 contemplation 1 How beautiful, how majestic, how awe-inspir- 
 ing 1 Yet when we turn away from it, if only for a one brief 
 moment, how changed our feelings ! Then we recoiled in 
 terror as we glanced up the gloomy cliff, where we soon 
 expected to wind around, in the solemn, panting procession. — 
 We rose higher and higher— our courage sinking lower and 
 lower. We could now, if we desired, look down upon the 
 barren tops of the one- and two-thousand-feet peaks. 
 
 0, the sensations ! the horrors of that day ! Indescribable 
 are they as are the picturesque surprises which spring up at 
 every turn. On, on we climbed, often turning pale and 
 
33 
 
 speechless, the mind refusing to fix itself upon a single point ; 
 but there was no turning back ; we had to press on. — 
 Grander views were constantly opening before us, but, alas ! 
 we enjoyed them not ! 
 
 Finally, after a slow, steady zig-zag climb of more than 
 two hours' duration, we stood 3,000 feet above the valley, 
 and 6,000 above the level of the sea. Supported by the iron 
 railing, which extends from one jutting rock to another, we 
 had before us a grand, full sweep of the greater part of this 
 mighty abyss. It is for the purpose of gaining the view 
 from this advantageous position that hundreds of Yosemite 
 travelers yearly climb the steep and dizzy trail. No one can 
 adequately describe this scene. Away down in the narrow 
 grave lay Mirror Lake, now contracted into a mere speck, 
 while the tremendous Yosemite, Vernal and Nevada Falls had 
 the appearance of long silver cords. Beyond Half Dome lies 
 Cloud's Rest, which extends its jutting brow 2,000 feet 
 higher than where we stood. In spite of all the grandeur in 
 in which we found ourselves enveloped, we were not loth to leave 
 the scene. A restless longing for the depths below seized 
 possession of our soul ; and after our safe return to Union 
 Point, where we arrived cold and rigid with fear, we deter- 
 mined to give Molly a holiday, and in company with another 
 undaunted spirit trudged on foot for nearly a mile and a half, 
 until a playful mountain stream intercepted our progress. — 
 When we were upon a footing in which we had greater con- 
 fidence tnan in that of Molly's, we began to realize the beau- 
 ties of this gigantic landscape. Although the scorching sun 
 was beating its hot rays most unmercifully in our already 
 bronzed faces, we cared not, and our increasing fatigue we re- 
 garded with disdain. What a blaze of glory was spread 
 around, above and below us, for we could now enjoy the 
 dazzling blue heavens, so richly and artistically frescoed 
 with fleecy clouds, as well as the valley with its exhaustless 
 collection of treasures. As we approached the green level, 
 we concluded to mount our horses again for a nice little gallop 
 through the valley. It was now that Molly showed a most 
 treacherous disposition and displayed her pent-up emotions in 
 a most unlady-like manner We had evidently insulted her 
 by causing her to come down the steep precipice with an 
 empty saddle on her back, and she was determined to resent 
 the insult. No sooner had we reached the foot of the trail, 
 when with surprising and terrific speed she plunged towards 
 
34 
 
 the stable door, pitching us most unceremoniously on the 
 ground. Such a sudden flight to earth we had not antici- 
 pated. This equestrian feat closed our Yosemite trail periormances. 
 
 At six o'clock the next morning we were on our way out 
 of the valley in rather a tattered, battered and tattooed con- 
 dition. It was impossible to forget for one moment the horse- 
 back rides of the preceding days, as the pitching and jolt- 
 ing of the lumbering stage increased the one hundred and fifty 
 aches and pains which we carried with us as souvenirs. 
 
 We again enjoyed, in reverse order, the panorama of scenes 
 of the beautiful Sierra Nevada mountains, arriving at Clark's 
 a little before noon, on Sunday, May 23rd. Here we were 
 thrown into a state ot intense excitement by the startling in- 
 telligence that one of the stages of the preceding day had 
 been upset, and that some of our party were among the unfor- 
 tunates. The accident occurred about three miles from Clark's 
 Hotel, the ringleader of this commotion being again the 
 young, little, inexperienced grey that had caused the tumultu- 
 ous disturbance at the Thirteen-mile house the day we went into 
 the valley. It appeared that he being either annoyed, restless or 
 treacherous, began to kick, which in an instant caused a terrific 
 panic among these easily-excited beasts. By great presence of 
 mind the cool-headed driver urged the upsetting of the stage 
 toward the mountain side. But for this thoughtfulness all 
 would have undoubtedly been hurled down the steep precipice. 
 The maddened horses struggled fiercely for freedom, which 
 one by one they succeeded in gaining, continuing in their 
 flight until bleeding, foaming and almost exhausted, they 
 reached the hotel. Fortunately a clear track was theirs. Had 
 this not been the case, a terrific smash-up would have been 
 the result. This accident was appalling enough, j-et it was 
 miraculous that no lives were lost. Beyond a few painful 
 sprains and bruises, no very serious damage was done. 
 
 After lunch in the afternoon of this beautiful Sabbath day, 
 in company with five carriage loads of passengers, we drove 
 eight miles distant through the Mariposa Grove, to view those 
 mammoth forest wonders — those giants of the west that have 
 no known parallel. 
 
 We were glad, however, when this day's programme was at 
 an end. We had had a very hard week, and we now dis- 
 covered that our constitution was not suflScienlly rock-bound 
 to equalize our ambition. 
 
 A grieveous headache abbreviated the day. 
 
35 
 
 LETTER, XIII. 
 
 Dear Courier : — Three heavy knocks, loud enough to~ disturb 
 the dead, roused us from our slumbers at three o'clock in 
 the morning of Monday, May 23rd, warning us that the hour 
 of fate had come. Sixty minutes were permitted us to prepare 
 ourselves for the remaining thirty-four miles of tedious stag- 
 ing which still lay between us and the bustling outside world. 
 In the sweet solemn stillness of this morning hour, it was a 
 doleful subject to contemplate. The heart of a doomed ' man 
 preparing for the scatfold could not leap more convulsively 
 than did ours when the thought that we would again be 
 knocked around like a ten-pin, flashed across the mind. 
 
 At 4 a. m, the stages stood before the door, into which we 
 were soon packed with military precision — not, however, be- 
 fore giving an anxious glance in the direction of the horses, 
 and up to the outside seat, where in company with two lucky 
 recipients of this seat of lionor, sat that exalted dignitary, 
 the driver. Both horses and driver seemed to be in periect 
 harmony with each other, yet unbounded confidence was 
 sadly wanting in us ; our souls had become weakened and 
 disheartened by the appalling accident already chronicled, — 
 But no alternative remained ; we were forced to put up with 
 the inevitable, which we did with the firm resolve that if we 
 were once more safe out of this region we would give it a 
 wide berth in our future travels. The isolated Wawona hotel, 
 so beautiful for situation, being built in a gentle verdure-clad 
 slope bathed by the waters of a noisj' mountain stream, was 
 soon lost to view, and the sublime repose of the grand 
 Sierras demanded our entire admiration. The light of the 
 early May morning was beginning to peep brightly through 
 the great wooded hills, and the cool breeze that comes before 
 the sun-rise became keenly fragrant with the odor of the stately 
 forest trees. The exhilarating mountain air refreshed and in- 
 vigorated eveiy faculty ; the unclouded sky predicted another 
 fine day. 
 
 The horses trotted so briskly and carefully along the beau- 
 tifully picturesque and magnificent road that at times all danger 
 was lifted from our minds, and we thoroughly enjoyed the 
 thrilling and brilliant landscape, so richly endowed by nature; 
 but all would be suddenly changed at the slightest crack or 
 
36 
 
 creak of the old stage — noises uncomfortably suggestive of 
 broken limbs and cracked skulls. 
 
 The sunshine and remarkably fair weather which greeted us 
 all the way throuojh our Yosemite travels, we found possessed 
 disadvantages as well as advantages. Ere this day's bright 
 spring sun illuminated the heavens, we discovered such an 
 increase of pulverized earth that the solemn scriptural injunc- 
 tion of ''Dust thou art and to dust shalt thou return," be- 
 came disagreeably ominous. Great clouds curling and rolling 
 above, and finally imbedding us, caused our solemn faces to 
 assume a most ludicrous aspect. Thus extravagantly bedecked 
 in native soil we reached our destination — the finest feature 
 of the entire trip being our descent to Mother Earth. 
 
 How grateful we were when we were once more on a firm 
 toundation ; v^hen we were clear of the risks and hardships 
 of staging, and had achieved the magnificent triumph of suc- 
 cessfully visiting the wo rid- famed Yosemite valley ! 
 
 Before our final departure from the sration of Raymond, which 
 is still rocking in helpless infancy, we partook of another 
 meal under the so-called ''Fly Ranch" tent, after which Ave 
 piled, without any regard to order, into the cars. The iron 
 horse was fretting and tuming to depart. The whistle shrieked 
 once, twice, thrice, and off we were on the iron path to San 
 Francisco. 
 
 The scenery all along the. route from Berenda to Oakland was 
 interesting and attractive — magnificent farming land; dotted 
 here and there with those luxuriant western landscapes, orna- 
 menting the country. At Oakland we were transferred by 
 boat CO San Francisco, where we arrived after a calm sail 
 across the beautiful bay. 
 
 The scene on the arrival of the boat is quite inspiring ; 
 cabs by the dozen are backed up in long rows, while the 
 driver of each vociferously shouts out the name of the hotel 
 he represents. Our agent being on hand, we had no difficulty 
 in finding our way through the deafening crowd to where a 
 cab for the Palace Hotel was awaiting us, and it was not 
 long ere we were ushered into the brilliantly lighted recep- 
 tion room of this mammoth hotel, very considerably fagged 
 out. What an enchanted scene here met our gaze ! Elegantly- 
 dressed ladies flitted gaily to and fro to the music of the 
 band which was discoursing sweet productions in the great 
 glass-roofed court which occupies the center of this vast struc- 
 ture. Our toilets, with the Yosemite dust still clinging to 
 
37 
 
 them, were not in keeping with this splendor, yet there we 
 were kept waiting 'neath the blazing chandeliers to what 
 seemed to us an interminable length of time, before our rooms 
 were assigned to us. Although twelve hundred people can be 
 comfortably accommodated in this colossal hotel, which is an 
 iron building seven stories high, studded with several hundred 
 bay windows, and is said to be the most stupendous public 
 house of its kind in the world, so great is the constant in- 
 flux of visitors that at times there are no vacant rooms. 
 
 This, however, was not the case on this, the evening of 
 our advent into the Golden City, for after a long search a 
 spacious room, elegantly fitted up with all the modern ap- 
 purtenances, was sealed to our name. Here we (trunk and 
 self) had a happy reunion. Onl}^ those who have traveled for 
 one week in the Yosemite, during a warm, dusty season, 
 minus this traveling auxiliary, can appreciate such a meeting. 
 
 With an elegant supper, which gave us an idea of how 
 sumptuously we were to fare during our ' short sojourn here, 
 with an abundance of welcome mail matter which had ac- 
 cumulated during our wanderings in the Sierras, and last, 
 though not least, with a good refreshing night's rest, we 
 found ourselves fully equipped to do honor to this far - away 
 city. As it takes a good guide to give a genuine flavor to 
 city sight-seeing, we were fortunate enough to find all the re- 
 quisites in our good friend, Mr. John S. llittell, of whose 
 kindness we cannot speak in terms of too high praise. 
 
 Dear Courier : — 9:30 a. m. on the morning after our arrival 
 in the beautiful city of the Golden Gate, found us saunter- 
 ing leisurely along the grand and crowded thoroughfares of 
 this remote place, now made so easy of access by a most 
 wonderful net work of metal. W"e soon discovered that every- 
 thing was carried on on a gigantic scale — everything was 
 teeming with life, business and beauty. Its streets, which are 
 beautifully wide, are lined on both sides with magnificent, 
 costly and colossal buildings, that will compare very favorably 
 in architectural splendor with the massive structures in the 
 cities east of the Rocki6s, differing only in the materials used 
 for their construction. Here iron and wood are chiefly used, 
 as they are said to possess a greater security against earth- 
 
38 
 
 quakes than brick or stone. That enterprise responds here 
 quickly and promptly to all the requirements ol the public, 
 is clearly demonstrated in its mammoth hotels, and its won- 
 derful cable roads. Eastern visitors need not have the least 
 concern in regard to the nature of the accommodations that 
 await them , for in every street are found extensive hostelries, 
 many ot which have a world-wide reputation. Some of the 
 oldest and most important maintain family characteristics. — 
 These see, and care little for transient business. 
 
 Although part of this city of mush-room growth reclines 
 gracefully on numerous steep hills, there are quarters, par- 
 ticularly in the business portion, where scarcely a quarter of 
 a century ago there existed nothing more than huge drifting 
 sand banks ; and many of the buildings on the level ground 
 are on a foundation of piling. Water, too, at the advance 
 of civilization, has been driven back to make room for beau- 
 tiful avenues and costly structures. 
 
 The cable road, which can claim this city as its birth- 
 place, was invented especially for the purpose of overcoming 
 the steep elevations, although it is equally successful on level 
 ground. The ride up the perpendicular hill called Telegraph, 
 we took in perfect safety and with the greatest speed imagin- 
 able. As you rise you seem to hang in the air over the 
 city. From the tower on the hill you have a grand pan- 
 oramic view of the city and its environs. Nature has indeed 
 lavished many gifts on the distant state of California, yet 
 the most wonderful and important of all is the magnificent 
 San Francisco Bay, which joins the waters of the blue Pacific 
 at the far-famed Golden Gate. In its waters lie the islands 
 of Goat, Angel and Alcatraz. The latter is beautifully ter- 
 raced, and is a strongly-fortified island. 
 
 Another never-to-be forgotten day and night view was had 
 from that aristocratic elevation known as Nob Plill. Here are 
 tound the palatial residences of the railroad Croesuses, which 
 are an attraction in themselves. The homes on these steep 
 hills required enormous labor and expense, while the climbing 
 up to them on foot is a back-breaking undertaking, as we 
 found by experience. 
 
 In the popular pleasure resort known as Woodward's Gar- 
 dens, we spent several very pleasant hours. The aquarium 
 here is especially fine. The collection of animals peculiar to 
 California afford amusement to both old and young, particu- 
 larly its huge grizzly bear, which is a rare attraction. 
 
39 
 
 A morninc; ride to the Clift' House, through the Golden, 
 Gate Park, was one of the most enjoyable features of our 
 visit to the coast. The Park contains over one thousand 
 acres of land. What was formerly a bleak waste of sand and 
 scraggy hillocks has been wonderfully converted into a veri- 
 table paradise. The trees, shrubs, lawns, and artistically ar- 
 ranged flower beds, show careful and intelligent supervnsion. — 
 The smooth green sward is kept so closely mown that it re- 
 sembles velvet. This must be carefully irrigated to keep it 
 thus arrayed. The magniiicent conservatory is filled with 
 many rare specimens of horticulture. The Garfield monument 
 rests upon a mound, in the center of an open space, from 
 which point several neat paths radiate. An inscription on 
 this statue informs the beholder that it was '^lirected b}^ the Of- 
 ferings of a Grateful People." The landscape gardener has made 
 several gigantic representations in flowers in this neighbor- 
 hood. 
 
 Before we reached the Cliff House we drove by a tract of 
 sand as yellow and barren as the Sahara. This, too, will, no 
 doubt, some day be redeemed from its original condition by 
 an ingenious people. 
 
 Opposite the Cliff House, in the ocean, are two huge rocks 
 which nature seems to have designed expressly for the hun- 
 dreds of seal monsters which congregate around them. These 
 strange animals of the sea, so entirely devoid of all grace, beauty 
 and musical accomplishments, apparently lead a most miser- 
 able life. They seem to be a most war-like and gossippy 
 family, each one struggling and fighting for the mastery. — 
 Their unearthly, piercing noise goes beyond description. It is 
 a mixture of a howl, bark and grunt. 
 
 The Pacific ocean, as seen from the piazza of this hotel, 
 presents a view superlatively grand. There it lay before us 
 so beautiful and calm, yet at times slightly ruffled, of a 
 lovely indigo blue, upon which the rays of the splendid sun 
 danced most gracefully. 
 
 On a hill back of the Clift' are the Sutro Heights. Here 
 Mr. Sutro, the millionaire of Mine Tunnel fame, spends part 
 of his time in a little cottage muffled by a heap of shrub- 
 bery, which, however, is soon to be supplanted by a magnificent 
 palace, for the reception of which the grounds are already laid 
 out, and flowers of every variety bloom in extraordinary pro- 
 fusion. An over-abundance of cheap statuary destroys the 
 otherwise pleasing aspect of this luxuriant spot. 
 
40 
 
 Our ride back was over the Point Lobos road, from which 
 we had a view of the Military Presidio and the Golden Gate, 
 that beautiful portal of the setting sun. 
 
 Oakland, so called from the lovely Calitornia oak-groves 
 which once abounded here, is a fast and beautiful growing 
 city on the opposite side of the bay. It resembles San Fran- 
 cisco so closely in its streets and buildings, that the two 
 cities may well be called twin sisters. In its beautiful ceme- 
 tery we saw handsomely-polished marble and granite monu- 
 ments, and numerous costly monumental chapels, but these 
 works of the sculptor received only a passing notice, while 
 the gardener's skill and taste drew from us exclamations of 
 surprise. Hedges of the most beautiful roses line both sides of 
 the long avenues, while beds of the lovely marguerite bloom 
 with unsurpassing beauty. A solemn, lonely procession reminded 
 us of the fact that we were in the city of the dead, other- 
 wise we should not have been able to associate death with 
 this lovely spot. 
 
 Dear Courier : — The almond-eyed oddities of San Francisco that 
 cluster in the quarter known as China Town are worthy in 
 themselves a long journey to visit. They occupy a considerable 
 part of the heart of this metropolis, and number in the 
 neighborhood of thirtv thousand souls. The traveler can here 
 form a very fair idea of the life and appearance pf things in 
 the Celestial Empire, without being put to the expense and 
 inconvenience of making a trip around the world — another of 
 the many advantages that only the rich city of San Francisco 
 can offer. So completely foreign do you find everything in 
 connection with these John Chinamen that you can scarcely 
 realize that you are on American soil, and not, as all appear- 
 ances indicate, in Shanghai or Hong-Kong. The principal thor- 
 oughfare of China Town is Dupont street. Here are found 
 numerous stores filled with exquisite bits ol Chiuoiserie, elabo- 
 rate embroidery, splendid carving in wood and ivory — all dan- 
 gerous baits for the tourist's purse, which soon grows painfully 
 slender as the days go by. 
 
 In company with a party of four, conducted by the ex- 
 police officer, McKenzie, we visited their haunts after dark, 
 
41 
 
 and the unpleasant sights seen here can never be forgotten. — 
 After going into their curious groceries, where everything 
 they have for sale is imported, even to live fish and birds — 
 their butcher shops, where you are startled to find for sale 
 that which the civilized butcher considers refuse — their drug 
 stores, where the medicine consists of herbs, snakes, lizards, 
 bulbs of lilies — their restaurants, with their gorgeously deco- 
 rated balconies, with lanterns and inscriptions —after seeing 
 all this you are fully prepared to enter the private labyrin- 
 thian passage, which will bring you through the green room 
 of the theatre, and from thence on the stage. Naturally 
 one would suppose that such an intrusion would interfere 
 not only with the drama, but also with the audience. N'ot 
 so, however. Everything is strange and extraordinary with 
 these people. It was plain to be seen b\' the manner in 
 which the house was packed, that the Chinese love their 
 theatre. The men occupy the pit and keep their hats on, 
 while the women are huddled together in a place by them- 
 selves up on the gallery. Chinese etiquette resents the ming- 
 ling of the sexes. The stage is a dreary, desolate-looking 
 place. The fixtures consist of a few chairs and a table. — 
 There is no drop curtain, or scenery of any kind. The or- 
 chestra occupies that portion of the stage back of the actors, 
 and the performers smoke and sip tea when disengaged. The 
 music is not of the kind that *'will soothe the savage-breast," 
 but it will set your teeth on edge and cause you to start 
 involuntarily. Their costumes are beautiful and costly, and 
 their star actors receive as high as from two to four thous- 
 and dollars per annum— so our guide informed us, but we 
 failed to detect the star. In our estimation they were all 
 alike — all equally ridiculously silly and childish. One-half 
 hour of the din, clatter, clamor and whining of the theatre, 
 for which luxury we paid fifty cents, was sufficient to cause 
 our partj^ to long tor a transition state, with the hope that 
 it would be a step toward something better. Such, however, 
 was not the case, for the opium dens were next on the list. 
 In the two we visited we saw young and old men given to 
 this deplorable habit — some completely stupified under the in- 
 fluence of the narcotic. 
 
 The most remarkable part of China Town is the manner 
 in which these foreigners live. It is, indeed, marvelous how 
 they thrive in these low rooms, impregnated by the most nau- 
 seating odors. Some of them actually live three stories under 
 
42 
 
 ground. In going through these cellars we were nearly suffo- 
 cated in the close four air. Personally the Chinamen are fault- 
 lessly clean. This explains why they can keep healthy in 
 places where the sun and fresh air never penetrate. 
 
 In the Joss Houses or Chinese Churches, we saw their hea- 
 then manner of worship. The altars are decorated in a cheap 
 gaudy style, with occasionally a costly piece of carving repre- 
 senting some hideous god. 
 
 In spite of their wonderful power of machine-like endurance, 
 these Mongolians cannot live forever, hence a funeral procession 
 through Chinadom is not an uncommon occurrence. Of course 
 these are only preliminary funerals, for after a certain length 
 of time the bones of the dead are taken to China. During 
 our brief visit we saw two of these peculiar processions. It is 
 the duty of one of the friends of the deceased to sit on the 
 hearse with the driver, whose business it is to throw slips of 
 paper, representing money, along the route, to keep the devil 
 away from the coffin. The mourners in the various cabs were 
 enjoying themselves in smoking and watching the people as 
 they passed through the crowded streets. With the exception 
 of the hearse, there was nothing connected with this line of 
 cabs that suggested a funeral. 
 
 It seems an utter impossibility for this inferior people to adopt 
 the habits of those by whom they are surrounded, so com- 
 pletely are their own stamped upon them. That they are not 
 an ignorant people is easily proven in their stores, where you 
 will find shrewd, intelligent business men. We learned from 
 those who have had extensive dealings with them, that they 
 are perfectly square and fair in all their transactions. They are 
 skilled mathematicians, which enables them to deal with the 
 American public, although they cannot speak the language very 
 fluentlj^ Their own unattainable dialect almost distracts one. 
 It is said that che greatest evil which exists among them is 
 their penchant for white children. Little babes, we are told, 
 frequently disappear. 
 
 Dear Courier : — The city of San Francisco has to offer 
 among its many attractions numerous large and well-appointed 
 theatres for the benefit of the amusement-loving people. In 
 the beautiful Baldwin we heard Lawrence Barrett, supported 
 by an excellent company, in his unsurpassed impersonation 
 
43 
 
 of Elliot Grey in the charming play of Rosedale. In the 
 Tivoli two pleasant evenings were spent in listening to Opera 
 Boufie, in which the San Francisco favorite, and talented 
 artiste, Helene Dingeon, very charmingly and gracefully took 
 the leading part. In the California, The Golden Giant, one 
 of those April-like productions, which cause on a most pro- 
 digious scale, sunshine and showers at most uncomfortable in- 
 tervals, tried its magic effect upon us. 
 
 Although our time in San Francisco was exceedingly lim- 
 ited, so carefully was our programme arranged by our kind 
 resident friend, that we saw not only much that was of in- 
 terest in the city, but enjoyed several delightful excursions to 
 its environs. Ferry boats of a superior pattern and most 
 luxuriantly fitted up, are constantly plying the waters of the 
 magnificent bay. On the morning of May 28th we sailed 
 across this inland sea, to the beautifully situated and favorite 
 sea-side resort, Saucelito, where we had spread before us ev- 
 erything which could gratify the eye and taste. This place 
 is the headquarters of all the Yacht Clubs, and has some of 
 the finest homes in the State. From here we had a most sup- 
 erb view of the beautiful stretch ot water before us. It was 
 truly a scene worthy of contemplation. The day was perfect, as 
 are all the days in the Golden State at this season of the 
 year. The glorious sun kept ascending to a loftier height, 
 until the surroundings were set aflame with extraordinary 
 splendor. Yet there was an absence of life which gave to this 
 hill an indescribable air of solitude and desertion. 
 
 In the inviting suburb of Berkeley we saw the handsome 
 University buildings and the institution for the the deaf, dumb 
 and blind. From here we passed through a highly-cultivated 
 country, on a horse car line which brought us to Piedmont, 
 noted for its medicinal springs. The grounds in which these 
 walled-up waters are found, are one mass of floral beauty. The 
 stranger is strikingly reminded of his duty by the following 
 characteristic notice : "The flowers, ferns or shrubbery in these 
 grounds do not belong to you. Do not pick or mutilate them." 
 As true Christian lovers of law and order we reverenced the 
 decree, hence came away without a souvenir. 
 
 At Alameda, a great Sunday bathing resort, we witnessed a 
 genuine western Sunday. The season, however, was not far 
 enough advanced for the usual number or bathers to make 
 their appearance, yet those that were venturesome had a large 
 audience. 
 
44 
 
 On Monday morning, May 31st, the day observed as Decora- 
 tion Day, when the beautiful city of San Francisco was brilliantly 
 crowded with gay and handsome military and cavalrymen, 
 when numerous bands were playing mournful music, and huge 
 wagons ladened with gorgeous flowers destined to ornament 
 the lonely graves of the fallen brave, were passing throuo;h 
 every street — during all this commotion fate decreed that we 
 should continue our mapped-out journey and proceed on our 
 way near to the quaint, dreamy sea-side resort of Monterey. 
 Our course lay through the beautiful Santa Clara Valley, 
 which is considered one of the richest and most picturesque 
 in the world. The land is, for the greater part, perfectly 
 level, and the growth ot grain and grass is astounding; while 
 the flowers, both cultivated and wild, grow in masses, and 
 are of such a size and beauty of color as to cause wonder 
 and astonishment. The California . live oak — a low-branching, 
 far-spreading tree — gives to the country a lovely park-like ef- 
 fect. In this valley the traveler can get the best glimpse ot* 
 the agricultural wealth of the State as well as of the pic- 
 turesque beauty of its scenery. Menlo Park, the chosen site 
 of the San Francisco millionaires, is almost hidden by mag- 
 nificent trees and shubbery. Senator Stanford's stock farm 
 here is the marvel of the country. The horses from this 
 farm bring fabulous prices, and well may they. For California 
 horses in general are the most beautiful we have ever seen. 
 What then must those be like that are reared in luxury, as 
 are those of Menlo Park. 
 
 San Jose (pronounced San Hosay,) called the Beautiful city, 
 we reached at noon. We spent several delightful hours in 
 this appropriately-named place. It is noted particularly for 
 its magnificent drives, its lovely shade trees, and last, though 
 not least, for its wonderful cherries. We visited a cherry 
 ranch where we bought five pounds ot this luscious fruit, 
 which was of such an unusual size compared to the Lebanon 
 county cherry, that were we to give dimensions we might 
 endanger our reputation for truthfulness. Our drive took us 
 out the historical avenue called the Alameda, the drive-way 
 between this city and Satita Clara. It is bordered by a dou- 
 ble row of trees, and many beautiful homes, with artistically 
 arranged yards, may be seen on both sides of the road. We 
 drove out as far as the ITniversity of the Pacific, and found 
 here a beautiful structure, surrounded by a large lawn. It 
 was Commencement Day, and from the benches, chairs, table 
 
45 
 
 and organ whicli we saw in the j^arcl, we concluded that 
 part of the exercises were held in the open air. The State 
 Normal school is located at San Jose. It is a large brick 
 building, situated in the center of twenty-seven acres of land. 
 An immense establishment called The San Jose Canninir 
 House, does an enormous business in the canning line. We 
 found this city exceedingly interesting. It surpassed Los An- 
 geles in climate and in its variety of fruit, for here peaches, 
 apricots, plums, prunes, oranges, as well as cherries, grow to 
 a wonderful perfection, while its wealth of trees, flowers and 
 shrubbery is equal to that seen anywhere. 
 
 A few hours' ride from this city brought us to our des- 
 tination, viz : the Del Monte Hotel, situated one mile from 
 Monterey, 
 
 LETTER Xl-VI. 
 
 Dear Courier: — The beautiful day of May 31st was rapidly 
 drawing to a close when we arrived at the Del Monte Hotel, 
 one of the most delightful winter, ;is well as summer, resorts 
 of the Pacific Coast. This house, constructed in modern 
 Gothic style, is situated in an extensive park containing 
 over one hundred acres of land, and is within the sound of 
 the waters of Monterey Bay. The approach to it, on the 
 stately and elegantly-macadamized avenue, with the balmy re- 
 freshing breeze fanning the atmosphere, presents a veritable 
 Paradise of foliage and flowers. Its dazzling splendor of 
 floral display defies description. Here are tropical-plants in- 
 numerable, while the heliotrope, honey-suckle, rose-bushes, 
 geraniums and running vines ladened w^ith a most extrava- 
 gant profusion of flowers clamber adventurously to the dizzy 
 height of from twenty to twenty-five feet. The Cacti bed is 
 a study for those for whom botany has a charm. Here may 
 be found every known varietj^, many of them in gorgeous 
 bloom, carefully and tastefully arranged. Fuchsias grown into 
 sprightly trees, with large and most perfect flowers, are 
 abundant. In fact, in this highly-endowed locality all trees, 
 shrubs and flowers attain a wonderful perfection of luxuriance. 
 The temperature is so charming that plants from every zone 
 grow side by side with remarkable vigor and harmon}'. — 
 Here also with intelligent and skillful management the liv- 
 ing-growing flowers are fashioned into the most marvelous and 
 
46 
 
 artistic designs, the chief of which at present is, the unique 
 floral picture representing the Grand Army badge, which is 
 intended to commemorate the visit of the G. A. R. to Mon- 
 terey, during the present summer. 
 
 Underneath the spreading oak, the pine and cedar, are 
 found extensive croquet, lawn tennis and archery grounds, 
 while swings, bowling alleys, a skating rink, and numerous 
 square sand plots neatly fenced in for the benefit of the lit- 
 tle ones, where they can amuse themselves with their infant 
 utensils, are also among its attractions. 
 
 The Maze, that little nook of perplexity, so intricately ar- 
 ranged with hedges of arbor vitse as to cause those who enter 
 within its precincts boundless amusement coupled with extraordi- 
 nary exercise in their efforts to find the center where benches 
 are provided for those who grow weary and foot-sore in the / 
 struggle, atlbnled us a satisfactory share of sport. The bathing 
 pavilion constructed at a cost of seventy-five thousand dollars, 
 is situated on the sandy beach about a ten minutes' walk 
 from the hotel, and is for the benefit of those who prefer a 
 warmer temperature than the surf can give, and also for those 
 who desire to take lessons in swimming, from the teacher, 
 Prof. Moss, who is always on hand whenever his services are 
 requested. Although the Del Monte grounds contain a thou- 
 sand-and-one attractions, they do not in the least detract from 
 the beauty of the hotel, which is in itself a model of loveli- 
 ness. As we entered the spacious reception room, on the eve- 
 ning of our arrival, we found it beaming with a home-like 
 security. Iti the large open fire place neatly brushed and pol- 
 ished, lay crackling and blazing, large logs of wood, which 
 gave to the room an amazing brightness; and as the shades 
 of night enveloped the earth the brilliantly-illuminated interior 
 presented such a spectacle of beauty and animation which it 
 would be difiicult to surpass. 
 
 The day following our arrival we took a seventeen-mile 
 drive through the quaint town of Monterey, and along the 
 picturesque shore of the varied-hued waters of the Pacific 
 Ocean. Monterey is probably the oldest town of the State ; it 
 consists almost exclusiv^ely of white-washed adobes, or mud 
 houses, adorned with green shutters. Its interesting abandoned 
 buildings of historical fame were pointed out in rapid suc- 
 cession by our extremely garrulous driver, who made himself 
 odious by his eagerness to regale us, whenever an opportunity 
 presented itself, with incidents of his life, which, however, 
 
had too much of the manufactured flavor about them to 
 arouse much enthusiasm. 
 
 A large wooden cross near the bridge in the town, marks 
 the landing place of the missionary father, Junipero Serra, in 
 the year 1770. From this point the road continues through 
 shady woods full of enchanting beauties, until Moss Beach 
 is reached ; a little further on are rocks upon which cluster 
 hundreds of seals, and finally Cypress Point, where a hair 
 pin curve is made. From here a most enjoyable view is had 
 of the two bays, Monterey and Carmelo. The grove of 
 trees from which this point derives its name is of a specie 
 peculiar to Monterey alone. These trees present a curious 
 sight. Their huge gnarled trunks and contorted branches give 
 evidence of great age, while the grey flimsy hanging moss 
 adds nothing to their beauty. Yet the close-knit branches 
 produce such a wealth of shade as to make this one of the 
 most delightful of drives. 
 
 The scenery back through Monterey to Del Monte was ex- 
 traordinarily fresh and bright on this particular morning. — 
 The beautiful blue-shaded ocean lay constantly before us, 
 while the life giving breeze sharpened our appetites for the 
 excellent meal which awaited us on our return. If we were 
 to remain here for months it would not be possible to ex- 
 haust all the charming promenades and splendid environs that 
 this lovely place aftords, so boundless is its wealth in va- 
 riety of scenery. 
 
 Dear Courier : — For the second time since our departure 
 from the city of Brotherly Love it became necessary to divide 
 the Raymond excursion party. The first division took place 
 at Los Angeles, where it was necessary for small parties to 
 leave in sections, for the Yosemite Valley; the second and 
 last, at Monterey, for the purpose of more comfortably and 
 conveniently visiting the charming sea-side resort of Santa 
 Cruz, situated directly opposite the bay and town of Mon- 
 terey. The distance via Pajaro, is only forty-eight miles, yet 
 it required nearly three hours to get there, as we were fre- 
 quently left standing upon a side track until accommodating 
 freight trains chose to drag us along. However, the ride was 
 by no means monotonous. The azure sky, the flower-carpeted 
 
48 
 
 earth, the sparkling billowy ocean, together with the merry, 
 congenial party in whose midst it was ever a pleasure to be, 
 caused the hours to roll swiftly by. On our arrival at the 
 station we found numerous carriages awaiting the party, and 
 it was not long ere we were seated behind the highly-recom- 
 mended pair, Frank and Fanny, on our way to the Big 
 Tree Grove at Felton, six miles distant. 
 
 When in gracefully-poised Los A.ngeles, we thought it the 
 most charming place in the world. Later, San Jose was re- 
 garded as the spot on earth expressly desigried by nature for 
 the repose and pleasure of humanity, and, finally, with the 
 beauties of Del Monte so freshly mirrored on our minds, it 
 did seem like sacrilege for the driver of these two "i^5," to 
 insist on it, that we had been wofully deceived, and that now 
 only had we reached the beau ideal of a place in which to 
 live. Here could be found the unadulterated tonic in the 
 air, so pure and bracing in its effects, which snatches vic- 
 tims from the very brink of the grave, for was not he, 
 himself, a fair example of such ? Here the sky is bluer, the 
 flowers more radiantly beautiful and in more dazzling masses 
 than elsewhere; the mountains arrayed in a verdure lustre that 
 words cannot paint ; here nature has done and is constantly 
 doing so much ; here the picturesque scenery in diversity of 
 form and richness of color is beyond description. All these 
 points, and more, too, did our worthy Jehu of the Benedict tribe 
 bring torward to prove his assertions. 
 
 The road to the grove leads through a magnificent woods, 
 and at times winds around precipices which fall sheer three 
 or four hundred feet to the bed of the creek below. Expert 
 driving is required to get in safety around the frequent and 
 sharp turns. Sublime landscapes constantly shift before you, 
 achieving, however, their grandest triumph in the vicinity of 
 the home of the Superintendent of the Powder Works, (the 
 latter located at Santa Cruz.) The mansion nestles upon a 
 well-rounded, verdure-clad hill overlooking a deep canon, in 
 which are found all the essentials for a perfect tableau. On 
 one side of this chosen sight are the high mountains; on the 
 other an elevation ujion which are three terraced carriage 
 roads ; while in the canon between, a meandering stream and 
 a railroad complete the magnificent picture. Pursuing our route 
 we forded the St. Lorenzo, a mountain stream abounding in 
 trout, and anon, after ascending and descending numerous steep 
 hills, we were astonished to behold the lolty wonders of the 
 
49 
 
 gigantic Big Tree Grove — the most interesting and historical 
 of which is Gen. Fremont, whose top towers far into the clouds, 
 The base of this tree has been chiseled out, making a room of 
 wonderful capacity, in which a shoemaker's famil}^ consisting of 
 four persons, kept house for one whole winter, and which the 
 youngest member of the family can claim as its birthplace. The 
 Three Sisters, standing near by, though not so tall, are very 
 graceful and majestic in appearance. Jumbo in size and contour 
 resembles an elephant. Col. IngersoU's Cathedral consists of nine 
 monster trees, branched out of an enormous trunk. The Giant, 
 the father of the forest, measures eighty-four feet in circumfer- 
 ence, and has a bark two feet in thickness. A rustic bower, 
 called the Arcade, built on the trunk of a tree, comfortably 
 seats twent3^-four persons. Underneath the luxuriant foliage of 
 these forest wonders is the favorite German Sunday resort and 
 picnic grounds. 
 
 On our way back to Santa Cruz in again passing through that 
 beautiful forest of foliage-clothed trees of endless variety, vandal 
 liands were laid upon the beautiful blooming azalias, for our 
 benefit. 
 
 At 2 p. m., after a fresh and invigorating meal at the 
 Kittredge House, of which repast the strawberry short-cake 
 deserves honorable mention, our carriage excursion was con- 
 tinued. We first drove through the thriving little town, which 
 boasts of six thousand inhabitants, sixty hotels, and is capable 
 of attracting from three to four thousand visitors annually, and 
 from thence out along the noble road along the rugged coast 
 of the great Pacific Ocean, where its monster waves have eaten 
 immense fantastic caverns, extending far underneath the bed of 
 the road, making beautifully-arched natural bridges. With the 
 courteous driver as guide, we were unexpectedly enabled tc 
 explore two of these subterranean passages, and it seemed 
 almost an impossibility to realize that all this wonderful exca- 
 vation was really the persistent work of the never-tiring waves. 
 
 The beautiful bathing beach was the last point of interest 
 visited. This stretches a considerable distance between the 
 tumbling surf, and is covered with the finest sand, and is almost 
 level. Several bathers were enjoying the luxuries of a salt 
 water dip, much to the envy of our errant crowd. Derby, 
 said to possess the enviable reputation of being the best 
 swimmer on the coast, was a conspicuous figure on the beach. 
 
50 
 
 Dear Courier : — The day after our return from Santa Cruz 
 to Del Monte was delightfully spent underneath the frowning 
 pines and stately oaks of this smiling blooming Eden — in 
 gathering pebbles upon its rough, sandy beach — and finallj^ in 
 gaining bird's eye views from advantageous elevations, of this 
 magnificent stretch ot green sward, with its noble trees, broad 
 avenues, and its profusion of thousands of gayly-colored 
 blossoming plants. 
 
 From the hill on the opposite side of the lake — which bit 
 of wacer was not at its best, having become incorrigible, bursting 
 its banks and sweeping away its beauties — we undoubtedly had 
 the finest view of the day. Tlie eye is here arrested on all sides 
 by strange and extravagant scenes. The peculiarly rose and blue- 
 tinted veil enveloping the dark green foliage of the mountains 
 made a phenomenal background to the overwhelming landscape. 
 We wondered not, when in our rambles we chanced to find 
 the talented artist of the party. Miss H., from Boston, endeav- 
 oring to depict this sublime scene upon paper. Before our 
 departure for San Francisco on the following day, we enjoyed 
 a final view of this magnificent spot, so resplendent with 
 natural and acquired beauty, from the observatory of the hotel. 
 It was only here that we fully realized and recognized the 
 wonders of the architectural taste and study of that skillful 
 landscape gardener, Mr. R. Ulrich, under whose careful supervi- 
 sion these peaceful grounds are speedily developing into an 
 unparalleled site. 
 
 The evening of Saturday, June 5th, found us again snuglj^ 
 quartered in the great Palace Hotel ot San Francisco. The 
 remaining few days of our sojourn in this city were pleasantly 
 spent in depositing some more cash in China Town, in visiting 
 the headquarters of the Fire Patrol, where every day at twelve 
 o'clock an interesting and remarkable drill of a few seconds' 
 duration takes place, where like a vivid flash of lightning 
 everything is done so quickly that you see nothing — and 
 finally in bidding our friends and the city adieu. 
 
 On Wednesday, June 9th, we took our last sail across the 
 beautiful bay, and were soon comfortably settled in our 
 accustomed places in the Pullman Sleepers, ready to plunge 
 through the snow-capped mountains of the almost inaccessible 
 Sierra Nevada mountains. 
 
 For a distance of thirty-two miles from Oakland, as far as 
 
51 
 
 Porta Costa, we had nothing new before us, as we tollowed 
 the same route over which we had approached San Francisco 
 nearly three weeks prior. The greater part of this time was 
 spent by the mathematicians of the party in the unsuccessful 
 attempt to solve the intricate problem in addition, which had 
 its birth at the desk of the Palace Hotel, and which boldly 
 confronted all those of the party on the adjustment of their 
 bills, who had left the beaten path, and wandered into the 
 Yosemite Vallej''. 
 
 On arriving at the Straits of Carquinez the train was divided 
 into two sections and taken across the water on the mammoth 
 ferry boat called Solano, said to be the largest craft of the 
 kind in the world. The strait is about a mile wide, and so 
 complete are all the arrangements that no delay is occasioned 
 by this novel mode of transportation. The government military 
 station and barracks of Benecia is directly opposite this narrow 
 passage of water. After riding for many miles through a wnde 
 and almost dismal stretch of low flat country, the valley 
 becomes gently undulating, and begins to till up with ripened 
 grain tields, acres of grape vines under cultivation, and numerous 
 pear and api»le orchards, together with myriads of wild flowers 
 blending their magnificent colors most lovingly together. — 
 Before arriving at the large and beautiful city of Sacramento 
 our hearts were made glad by the pleasing intelligence, 
 received by telegram, that the Capitol would be illuminated, 
 find its portals thrown open for the benefit of the Raymond 
 Kxcursion Party ; that the fine military band of the city would 
 give an open-air concert in the park, and it was hoped that 
 all would avail themselves of this rare opportunity of seeing 
 the seat of the State government of California. A rapturous 
 applause greeted this announcement. At six, p. m., we reached 
 the city. The train, with its hungry freight, had scarcely 
 ceased its motion when a waiter appeared on the platform 
 with a huge cracked dinner bell in his hand, and to the 
 ding-dong, ding-dong of this instrument ot torture, which 
 calls for noble endurance as well hungry crowds, we wended our 
 way into the Silver Palace Dining Hall, where we were soon 
 as busy as bees in a hive. After ibis rqast an hour's ride 
 in the street cars gave us an excellent idea of its wide, 
 regular streets, so beautifully shaded with magnificent trees 
 with their mass of green foliage, its numerous fine homes 
 surrounded with yards oi blooming flowers, especially note- 
 worthy oi which were the huge magnolias ; its splendid hotels, 
 
52 
 
 its fine squares and churches. We lingered at the Capitol 
 until the evening lengthened. Ere the rays of the setting sun 
 had entirely vanished, we ascended the dark winding stairway 
 to the top of the edifice, to the melody of the band, which 
 floated through the open windows. What a beautiful picture 
 met our gaze ! Who could accurately describe it ! From the 
 cupola of this $2,500,000 structure the city unfolds itself in 
 all its picturesque grace and beauty. 
 
 When finally the shades of night were gently repulsed by 
 the pure white flame of the electric light, the matchless 
 panorama in the beautiful Park in which the people were 
 moving to and fro en masse, vividly suggested a scene from the 
 "Arabian Nights." 
 
 LETTER XlIX:- 
 
 Dear Courier : — The night of June 9th was spent in the 
 Sleeper, on a side track, at the station of the capital of 
 California. It proved a most melancholy event. The Sacra- 
 mento mosquitos discovered the necessity of making our ac- 
 quaintance. Suffice it to record, that these stinging insects 
 are here in a state of development commensurate with the 
 general grandeur of the Golden State. 
 
 The heated atmosphere of the preceding evening was fol- 
 lowed by a raw chillness during the night that tampered 
 seriously with the delicate vocal chords of some of the 
 Eastern guests. The audacious early birds of the party made 
 themselves particularly conspicuous on this occasion, by aban- 
 doning their series at the unreasonable hour of 3.45 a. m., 
 much to the annoyance of the less-spirited ones, who by this 
 smothered disturbance tossed uncomfortably until a more de- 
 cided dawn of the welcome day appeared. After breakfasting 
 at the Silver Palace restaurant, we again took our seats in 
 the car, which during this interval had changed from a bed- 
 room into a parlor, for a continuation of our trip on the 
 magnificent Central Pacific, which ploughs its course so tri- 
 umphantly up through and around the Sierras to the height 
 of seven thousand and seventeen feet, causing wonder and 
 astonishment at every turn of this daring piece of engineer- 
 ing. A short distance beyond Sacramento we crossed the 
 American river, upon whose muddy waters, before the hour 
 
53 
 
 of noon was passed, we gazed from a Ijeight of over two 
 thousand feet. The snow-capped mountains soon became visi- 
 ble, and mining villages, with poetical and soul-stirring names 
 such as Dutch Flat, Gold Run, Red Dog, Alta and the like, 
 are rapidly passed. The train rushes on, frantically clinging 
 to the mountain side until it sweeps upon a shelf made in 
 this vast protuberance and rounds the picturesque Cape Horn. 
 Here we had before us one of the grandest of all nature's 
 grand displays, which was fully ap[)reciatcd by the admiring 
 group, who gathered on the platform, or looked hard trom 
 the car windows, giving evidence of their admiration in ex- 
 travagant terms. "Is it not equal to the great Yosemire?" one 
 ventured to say. "Yes," chimed the weak voice of one of 
 the victims of the Yosemite stage accident, whose frail body 
 was still writhing in pain from the effects of the disaster, 
 '-'•and we can see and enjoy it all without being in constant fear of 
 having our necks broken!'' To the left the perpendicular moun- 
 tains rose thousands of feet above our heads — to the right a 
 deep canon, bounded by bold cliffs sharply defined against 
 the blue sky. The muddy American river now Ij'ing over 
 two thousand feet below was dwarfed into a diminutive band. 
 The luxuriantly-clothed trees, appearing like shrubs from our 
 elevated position, cast an ineffable loveliness of green as far 
 as the eye could reach. From this point on to the Blue Canon 
 the scenery is exceedingly wild and rugged. 
 
 At one, p. m., a good substantial dinner was had at the 
 isolated Blue Canon hotel, where the quantity and qualitj^ of 
 food were equally commendable. At two, p. m., we continued 
 our journey, which became exceedingly dull and uninteresting 
 when we found ourselves imprisoned in the costly solid snow 
 sheds which protect this iron pathway from its winter enemy 
 — the feathery flake. These sheds cover over forty miles of 
 this road, and cost from eight to twelve thousand dollars per 
 mile, and, where masonry was necessary, as high as thirli/ 
 thousand per mile ! They are complete in every particular. 
 At a moment's warning any section can be flooded in case of 
 fire. But a passing glimpse was ours of the beautiful and 
 historical Donner Lake, which lies so peacefully in one of the 
 most beautiful of the lofty basins of the Sierra Nevada moun- 
 tains, and which could a terrible tale untold of the cruel 
 sufferings of the snow-bound Donner party in the year 1846, 
 when out of a company of eighty-two souls, thirty-six perished 
 of hunger and cold, the most touching incident of which was 
 
54 
 
 the heroic triumph of Mary, the wife of George Donner, whose 
 gentle, loving heart was tried beyond endurance, when on the 
 arrival of the rescuing party her husband was found too weak 
 and sick to travel over the mountains. A terrific struggle 
 between a wife's love and a mother's love was hers. Her wifely 
 instincts triumphed; although urged by her husband and friends 
 to go with her clinging little ones, and being almost persuaded 
 that such was her duty, she finally resolved that the strongest 
 ties were those which bound her to her dying husband. With 
 him she remained in this gloomy wilderness, helpless and alone, 
 until death released both from their sufferings. Monuments have 
 been reared to perpetuate the names of less heroic souls than 
 that of Mary Donner! 
 
 At the Summit a grand winter scene presented itself Great 
 mounds of snow several feet high lay all around. A vigorous 
 snow-balling was indulged in by the fair sex of the party. — 
 The road follows the beautiful winding Truckee river for 
 more than fifty miles. Several frightful-looking freight wrecks 
 reminded us of the fact that not all danger was stored away 
 in the Yosemite Valley. Truckee, the last of the Golden State 
 towns through which we passed, will ever be remembered ibr 
 its mania for hotels and drinking saloons. We soon stepped 
 into the neighboring State of Nevada, and at Reno partook of 
 an excellent supper. 
 
 LETTER XIXl, 
 
 Dear Courier : — On the evening of Juno tenth, at 9.20, p. 
 m., the train halted sufliciently long at AVadsworth, Nevada, 
 to enable us to pay a hasty visit to its beautifully fitted-up 
 library, which contains a fine collection of choice works. A 
 dozen or more of the famous Roger groups occupied conspicu- 
 ous places it this far-away literary retreat. 
 
 Elko, our breakfast station, we reached the following day, 
 at 8, p. m. We saw nothing of this, the county seat ot Elko 
 county, although it is said to be quite a town, with no less 
 than fifteen hundred people claiming it as their home. Be- 
 fore we finished our morning meal, a motley crowd gathered 
 around the station. It was here that we saw the last of the 
 primitive tribe, and a heathenish, repulsive-looking delegation 
 it was. One of the squaws, with a papoose, expected to reap 
 
00 
 
 a fortune by asking a fee for a look at her little brown tot. 
 In this she failed, and in her endeavor to hide it from the 
 crowd, she gave it such narrow quarters between herself and 
 the station, that the little one rebelled, sending up such a 
 wail, that a retreat, which was made in anger, was inevita- 
 ble, much to the amusement of the miserly audience. 
 
 Continuing our journey through Nevada, we rolled smoothly 
 and rapidly for hours without anything of interest gladdening 
 the eye. Nothing was to be seen save sand, with here and 
 there a forlorn and desolate-looking sage brush. We Lad 
 reached the great sandy desert, which, when not even bright- 
 ened by the familiar sage, looked like a great muddy ocean. 
 A very hungry crowd arrived at Terrace, Utah, at 1.50, p. 
 m., where full justice was done to a late dinner. One hour 
 later we again betook ourselves to our respective places. 
 
 As if to relieve the monotony of the sandy barren stretch 
 of land, a corner of the great calm Salt Lake, glimmering 
 like crystal, soon came ui.)on the scene. Indeed, ere long, na- 
 ture became exceedino-ly lavish. The beautiful blue skv as^ainst 
 the snow-capped mountains, with the rays of the setting sun 
 drawing myriads of colors from this salty body of water, 
 transformed the desert waste into such a scene that would 
 delight an artist to reproduce. At 8, p. m., supper was had 
 at Ogden. Ere we left this city, its fine open s})ace 
 around the station was beautifully illuminated with the Edi- 
 son incandescent lamps. From theuce to Salt Lake City, we 
 traveled on tlie Denver & Rio Grande. A prodigious sui»ply 
 of mail matter, which the agent of the party received at 
 Ogden, and which he distiibuted immediately after our de- 
 parture from the city, cheered the hearts of the favored 
 ones. On we sped over this narrow guage road, the iron 
 horse fairly flying in its haste to reach the beautiful City of 
 the Mormons, where we finally arrived a few hours before 
 midnight. Omnibuses were drawn up in a line to convey us 
 to the hotel. Into these the tired, sleepy travelers were 
 hastily packed, but a party of sixteen of us soon became 
 wide awake, when the discovery w^as made that we were in 
 the midst of danger. A balky horse was determined not to 
 allow us a good-natured entry into this, the city ot the 
 Latter-Day hJaints. After a scene which beggars description, 
 which nearly developed into a panic, and in which the equi- 
 librium of the sixteen was considerably unbalanced, the un- 
 gracious driver finally opened the door and permitted the 
 
56 
 
 frightened occupants to alight, which they did in hot haste. 
 Naturally the commotion aroused the neighborhood, and the 
 hospitable zeal displayed showed that we had fallen into the 
 keeping of a warm-hearted people. Atter a detention of a 
 half hour, or more, during which interval another conveyance 
 was ordered, we reached the Continental Hotel in safety. — 
 This house is said to be the best and finest in the city. — 
 Charity forbids us from saying more than that our accom- 
 modations were emphatically below par, and that memories of 
 the Glen Summit repast on the eve of the day of our depart- 
 ure, thronged vividly before us during our entire sojourn at 
 this hotel. 
 
 Salt Lake City, the Mecca of the Mormons, is indeed 
 unparalleled for situation. It lies in a valley surrounded on 
 the north and east by the Wahsatch range of mountains, the 
 highest peaks of which are covered with perpetual snow, and 
 which form a boundary of unsurpassed grandeur. The streets 
 are wide and ornamented with the most majestic shade trees. 
 The houses are surrounded by yards which teem with 
 luxuriant vegetation, and are gay with flowers of every 
 description. A peculiar feature of the city is its water supply. 
 On each side of many of the streets flow streams of pure water, 
 fresh from the melting snows of the mountains, and which 
 is conveyed hither through the numerous canons. This water 
 is used for drinking purposes, as well as for irrigation. — 
 Among the most noticeable business places is the store known 
 as the "'Zion's Co-operative Mercantile Institution," called for 
 convenience "The Co-op." It is partly owned by the church, 
 and monopolizes all its trade. It has a capital of one million, 
 and an income of six millions. It has been in successful 
 operation since the year 1868. 
 
 Camp Douglas, said to be "Uncle Sam's" most beautiful 
 Fort, is several miles from the city. In answer to the query, 
 "why are soldiers stationed there .?" we received the following 
 ironical answer, "Well, first they were placed there to watch 
 the Indians ; now they must watch the Mormons !" 
 
57 
 
 Dear Courier : — Eighteen miles from Salt Lake City is found 
 that great deep blue body of water known as the Great Salt 
 Lake. This Dead Sea of America was made doubly attractive 
 on the afternoon of Saturday, June 12th, by the announcement 
 that the celebrated and world-renowned swimmer, Gapt. Paul 
 Boynton, would give one of his famous and interesting per- 
 formances in these waters at the station of Garfield, at six, 
 p. m., and that special trains would be run thither for the 
 benefit of the public. Many of our party took advantage of 
 this rare opportunity, and those who were anxious for a dip 
 in this said-to-be the finest bathing resort in the world, hied 
 away at 1.10, p m. This remarkable lake, about seventy miles 
 long and thirty-five wide, is situated four thousand two hun- 
 dred feet above the level of the sea. Its density is so great, 
 nearly one-fourth its weight being pure salt, that fish 
 cannot live in it, and it is considered a diflScult feat for man 
 to dive into it. The station of Garfield is a picturesque affair; 
 it is hemmed in on one side by a steep mountain. It consists 
 of a huge pavilion, from which a pier extends far out into the 
 lake, at the farther end of which is fastened a large boat 
 called Gen. Garfield. This is used simply as a floating restau- 
 rant, where meals and fluids are served at all hours of ex- 
 cursion days. A little steam tug, tor the benefit of those who 
 desire a twenty-five-cent sail on the lake, lay anchored at some 
 distance from the shore. To it was attached a row boat, for 
 the purpose of conveying passengers through the shallow 
 water to the miniature steamer. This craft, with two sailors 
 on board, became the centre of attraction before the close of 
 day. The usually peaceful waters of this great inland sea 
 were phenomenally turbulent on this particular afternoon, so 
 much so that it was considered unsafe for any one to venture 
 in. The daring Paul, however, ran to and fro, personally at- 
 tending to the innumerable preliminaries which seemed neces- 
 sary for his six o'clock entertainment. Every train from Ogden 
 and Salt Lake City brought crowds of spectators to the scene. 
 But it soon became evident that a terrific wind and rain 
 storm would play sad havoc with the neatly-arranged pro- 
 gramme. Attention was, ere long, directed to the dangerous 
 situation of the two men in the tug. The angry waves dashed 
 mercilessly against the frail vessel. The row boat was swept 
 
58 
 
 ashore. Excitement was raised to its highest pitch when the 
 great swimmer, dressed in his rubber suit, made three heroic, 
 though unsuccessful, attempts to carry a rope to the imperiled 
 ones. The third time he rode over two huge breakers, and 
 had mounted the third, when it dashed him back with relent- 
 less fury. He was picked up unconscious and nearly strangled. 
 The imprisoned men were not rescued until 4, a. m., when 
 they were found in an exhausted condition. There being no 
 abatement in the storm, the exhibition was postponed until the 
 following day. Before we left Garfield it began to rain, which 
 later turned into snow, and by the time we reached the city 
 it poured in literal torrents. The following day was the Sab- 
 bath. The sun shone brightly, and everything was refreshed 
 and invigorated in this beautiful Garden city of the West by 
 yesterday's rain. The mountain peaks, too, had received a 
 new coat of white, and the soft sky was set aflame with 
 breadths and depths ot color. 
 
 The City of the Saints is divided into twenty-one wards, 
 each ward being provided with a chapel and a Bishop. At 
 an early hour we wended our way to the Fourteenth Ward 
 Sunday School. Exercises for the children are held in the dif- 
 ferent chapels in the morning, and services for adults in the 
 evening. In the afternoon young and old go to the Tabernacle. 
 Bishop Taylor, the shepherd of the Fourteenth ward flock, 
 was unavoidably absent from his post, on this occasion. A 
 sprightly Mormon dame gave the desired information, "he is 
 not here, because he is imprisoned for polygamy !" Of course 
 his absence was excusable. The Sunday school exercises were 
 exceedingly interesting and the order exceptionally good. The 
 session usually lasts two hours, but on this Sunday it was 
 abreviated a half hour on account of Teachers' Meeting. The 
 programme was as follows : Singing, (standing) ; Prayer, (sit- 
 ting, the person offering the invocation kneeling, with right 
 hand raised); Singing, (standing); reading of minutes of pre- 
 vious Sunday, after which the Superintendent called on four 
 young men to distribute the communion. One of the number 
 blessed the bread, (all sitting, he kneeling,) after which it was 
 handed around in silver baskets, old and young partaking. In 
 like manner the water (no wine) was passed around in silver 
 cups. During the distribution Mr. Murdock, Assistant Super- 
 intendent of another ward school, was introduced, who made 
 a short speech, in which he stated that his object in visiting 
 the school was to glean points which might be of benefit for 
 
59 
 
 his school. After this address preparations for the lesson were 
 made. The organist played a march, to which the infant and 
 advanced pupils filed into adjoining rooms. The intermediate 
 scholars remaining formed themselves into classes, and every- 
 thing moved on regularly and in order. Our visit to the In- 
 fant room was an interesting feature. Sixty little buds were 
 here assembled. Their answers were clear and remarkably well 
 modulated, and their singing excellent. The lady superintendent 
 took special pains to teach them a lesson on parity. We also 
 visited a class of young men taught by a blind old man. We 
 were too late for the lesson, hut one of the members of the 
 class made a few remarks, evidently with the intentions of 
 converting some of the party to Mormonism. lie tried to prove 
 that their faith was founded in truth, based upon the teach- 
 ings of the Old Testament ; that as toils, privations and sacri- 
 fices were endured by their predecessors, so they, too, must now 
 sufter in their day. Before dismissal all were again assembled 
 in the main room, when after singing and the pronouncing of 
 the benediction they left the room to the music of a pro- 
 cessional hymn. 
 
 Dear Courier : — Every good Mormon man, woman and child — 
 whether old or young, rich or poor, lame or blind, together 
 svith the ever-numerous strangers within the gates, flock to 
 the Tabernacle every Sunday afternoon, where services are held 
 at precisely 2, p. m. This vast building is situated in what 
 is known as Temple Block, in the city of the Latter day 
 Saints. It is surrounded by a high wall, is oval in form, and 
 its roof, which is seventy feet from the floor, is supported by 
 forty -six sandstone columns. The spaces between these columns 
 are filled with large windows and doorways. A broad gallery 
 encircles nearly the entire building. Within an elevated en- 
 closure are three pulpits, raised several feet above each other; 
 back of these, high up against the wall, is an imposing organ, 
 said to be among the finest in the States. The members of 
 the choir sit in two wings, in the rear of the pulpits, the 
 the men occupying one side and the women the other. The 
 music is under splendid management. The choir consists of 
 nearly one hundred members, and some excellent voices are 
 found among the number. The dignitaries of the church, ac- 
 
60 
 
 cording to rank, occupy the seats around the three pulpits. 
 This great amphitheatre is capable of seating from ten to 
 thirteen thousand people, and can be vacated in ten seconds, 
 so complete are the arrangements for a hasty exit. The 
 great vaulted ceiling is profusely and gaudily decorated with 
 evergreens and flowers of colored tissue paper. This decorii- 
 tion was put up in the year 1875, when a grand celebration 
 of the 24th of July took place — a day set apart in com- 
 memoration of the Pioneers, and one much honored by the 
 Mormons. 
 
 Sunday, June 1 3th, found us numbered in the stream which 
 poured into this extraordinary building. The services lasted 
 until four, p. m. The sacrament, consisting of bread and 
 water, is administered every Sunday, during the preaching, 
 and is passed to old and young. The Priesthood of the dif- 
 ferent wards take turns in oflftciating in the administration of 
 this holy ordinance. On this particular Sunday it fell to the 
 duty of the 6th ward delegation. As no less than four or 
 ^Ye thousand souls worship here every Sunday, it requires 
 the entire session to make the round. The meeting was 
 presided over by High Councelor Wra. Eddington. The choir 
 sang: 
 
 "Come, thou glorious day of promise, 
 Come and spread thy cheerful ray." 
 
 A long prayer was offered by Elder Arthur Stayner, after 
 which the choir sang: 
 
 "Ye children of our God, 
 Ye Saints of latter days." 
 
 Editor John Nicholson was then called upon to preach. 
 There being a fine sprinkling of Gentiles or ^^-outsiders" as 
 they are called, present, this Elder took advantage of the ex- 
 cellent opportunity afforded him to plead his own case. lie 
 was in deep waters. Having been so charitably disposed as 
 to undertake the responsibility of leading two wives through 
 the vicissitudes of this life, he was thrown into prison, and 
 was at present enjoying only a temporary release. He han- 
 dled his theme in an eloquent and masterly manner — spoke 
 plainly and fearlessly of the merciless character of the present 
 crusade against the Latter-Day Saints. For nearly two hours 
 he brought forward the weakest and most trashy of argu- 
 ments, disgusting the '^outsiders,'' and putting asleep at least 
 one-third of these poor ignorant and degraded people. After 
 
the singing of the Anthem, "0 Father, Almighty," and 
 prayer, offered by Elder Hamilton G. Park, the afternoon ex- 
 ercises were concluded. 
 
 Near by the Tabernacle is the Assembly House, a small edi- 
 fice used for winter worship. The Endowment House and Tem- 
 ple are in the same enclosure. The horrors and indignities of the 
 former have been frequently ventilated. The latter is a sym- 
 bolical edifice which is nearing completion. Already over two 
 millions of dollars have been spent on it. It is not in an 
 unfinished state for the lack of funds, but for the reason that 
 forty years were to be spent in its construction. In two more 
 years the allotted time will have expired, and one of the most 
 wonderful buildings of the present century will grace the city 
 of Salt Lake. It will require more than a million of dollars 
 for the completio!) of the unfinished work. Every part of it 
 is to be of stone — a beautiful granite found near by, in the 
 quarries of the Cottonwood Canon. When completed it will 
 be a sumptuous and costly edifice, with a gra'nd display of 
 magnificent workmanship. 
 
 Among the most interesting bui'.dings of the City are the 
 former numerous residences of Brighani Young, the most elab- 
 orate of which is the "Amelia Palace," which the prophet was 
 building ior his favorite wife Amelia, but died ere its comple- 
 tion. President Taylor now occupies it. In the houses appro- 
 priatel}' called the Bee Hive and Lion, several of the bereaved 
 widows of the divinely (?) appointed leader reside. The tomb 
 of the prophet is an astonishinglj^ modest affair. It is in his 
 private burial lot. A large slab of marble covers the grave, 
 and a neat high railing surrounds it. 
 
 I^ublicly the Mormons are a very social people. During our 
 short sojourn in their El Dorado, we had several interesting 
 conversations with devout members of the church, and found 
 them unquestionably sincere in their religious beliei. We were 
 assured that not all Mormons were polygamists — that the 
 church only tolerates a multiplicity of helpmates when the 
 courageous one is in good standing and possesses enough of 
 this world's goods to justify such an act, (a statement emphat- 
 ically contradicted by the outsiders.) Naturally the Mormon 
 woman is anxious to get married ; tor her religion teaches her 
 that the gates of the Joe Smith paradise, which she is longing 
 and hoping to enter, will remain forever barred to the unmar- 
 ried of her sex, 
 
 A Mormon spinster is consequently a rare article. 
 
G2 
 
 Dear Courier: — With the usual amount of shrieks and 
 puffs and preliminary gasps of departure, the engine, attached 
 to the special train consisting of seven narrow-guage palace 
 cars, in which the members of the Raymond party were 
 more luxuriantly than comfortably ensconced, steamed out 
 from the station of Salt Lake City on the morning of Mon- 
 day, June 14th. Nothing could have been more delightful 
 than the weather on this particular morning. Mother Nature 
 wore a fairer guise than ever. The capacious valley turned 
 rosy in the steadily-increasing sunlight. The white - crowned 
 summits of the mountains climbed up into the azure heights. 
 Added to this tenderly - magnificent landscape was the ever- 
 shifting cloud-scenery, which was watched with unabated in- 
 terest by the inmates of the car Aztec, and only abandoned 
 when the broad open country, with its cultivated fields, 
 green pastures and thrifty-looking Mormon settlements came 
 rapidly upon tlie scene. Our course lay along the winding 
 yellow waters of the river Jordan, which connects the Utah 
 with the Great Salt Lake. The waters- of the former are 
 fresh, and are three hundred feet higher than those of the 
 latter. After leaving Lehi, a village wnth an abundance of 
 foilage, and wholly built of sun-dried brick, the placid waters 
 of Utah Lake came in full view, and we passed through 
 miles of rich farm land, admirably tilled, proving that the 
 Mormons are not found lacking in agricultural pursuits. Near 
 the railroad a narrow wagon road, showing much use, may 
 be seen the greater part of the way through the fertile val- 
 ley of the Jordan. At 11, a. m., we reached Provo, where 
 we found dinner awaiting us. Provo is the most flourishing 
 and important town on Utah Lake. Beyond this point the 
 rugged and savage scenery of the Wahsatch range bewilders 
 the beholder. The train climbs eastward across the rocky 
 hills, through the Spanish Fork Canon, thence to soldier 
 Summit, where an elevation of 7,464 feet is reached. The 
 high mountains were gay with trees and shrubbery of various 
 shades of green, while the earth, too, when not carpeted 
 with fresh turf, showed various hues of red, making a va- 
 riety of gorgeous colors. At Red Narrows the view is mag- 
 nificent. The wonderful conglomeration of rocks, pushing out 
 in all directions, show evidence of having been the bed of a 
 mighty stream. The cliffs begin to rise higher and higher — 
 
63 
 
 the narrow stream of the South Fork of the Price River 
 continues its noisy course along the road. The sun shining 
 and tlie rain falling at intervals, or in concert, gave a won- 
 derful freshness and brilliancy to the enchanted scene. The 
 road winds and bends in the most ingenious manner, bring- 
 ing new and interesting views at every turn. At 4:15, p. m., 
 the iron horse moved slowly and majestically up to the two 
 remarkable columns, those guardians of Castle Canon, known 
 as Castle Gate. The train halted five minutes, to give us an 
 opportunity of examining this truly inspiring and marvelous 
 work of nature. The scenery in Castle Canon assumes a bold 
 and imposing aspect: huge clitfs, rent and jagged as if by an 
 earthquake, resemble hanging terraces, vast castles, gigantic 
 forts, towers and pinnacles. The precipitous rock, like im- 
 mense walls towering skyward, are ornamented with impresses 
 like that of trees and leaves, on their smooth bright sides. — 
 Sublime and delicate landscapes present themselves and retire, 
 making the picture wonderously beautiful. At Lower Price 
 Crossing, where we had our evening meal, wo found a box 
 of minerals from the neighboring mines, generously filled for 
 the benefit of the party. A fair specimen of the mining re- 
 gion, liberally saturated with benzine^ entertained the crowd 
 with the usual amount of western stereotyped sociability. — 
 When the morrow's light dawned upon us, we had left the 
 land of the Mormons behind us, and were hemmed in by the 
 one-and- two-thousand feet high walls of the Black Canon of 
 the Gunnison, in the picturesque State ot Colorado. We 
 dashed along between the solid, close-shutting crags, from 
 whose sides now and then a miniature waterfall playfully 
 gushed, until we reached that wonder of all pinnacles, the 
 Currecanti Needle — an unbroken shaft fifteen hundred feet 
 high, situated in the verj^ heart of the Black Canon. Fif- 
 teen minutes were here allowed us, in order to give an ap- 
 proaching freight train tlie right of way. On leaving this 
 point the beautiful leap of water, named Chepeta Falls, 
 sparkling brilliantly in the early morning light, received a 
 well-deserved share of admiration. Breakfast, at the Black 
 Canon Hotel, at Cimarron, on the banks of the Cimarron 
 creek, was finally in order. After our departure from this 
 place it became very evident that the '•'pestilential nuisances'^ 
 were not all "on the list." The autograph fever taking a firm 
 hold on one of the vigilant ones, soon became alarmingly 
 epidemical. The stubs^ remaining in the long narrow Russia 
 
G4 
 
 Leather ticket books, with which each passenger was sup- 
 plied, were ingeniously wrought into an album, making it a 
 doubly-interesting souvenir. 
 
 At Gunnison we halted a few minutes. This flourishing 
 raining city is built in a circle, with a large plain between 
 it atid the station. The La Vita House, an imposing brick 
 building, is a prominent feature. The beautiful orange, pink 
 and purple colored Mariposa flower, so familiar in the Yosemite 
 Valley, again suddenly appeared upon the floral stage, and was 
 welcomed with delight. At Sargent, where we had dinner, we 
 were invited to one of the neighboring houses to see a snake 
 Cactus, said to be a rare specimen of the Cacti family. It 
 had been found several Sundays previous by the happy pos- 
 sessor, while crossing the prairies. 
 
 Dear Courier: — Proceeding on our journey from Sargent, Col., 
 Tuesday afternoon, June lo, we commenced the ascent of the 
 Rocky Mountains in good earnest. The train was again di- 
 vided into two sections, to which were attached ponderous en- 
 gines, which glided easily and rapidly around the numerous 
 curves of this wild mountain route, the audacious grades of 
 which are something almost beyond belief, some of them 
 being from two hundred and eleven to two hundred and twenty 
 feet to the mile. After passing through seven miles ot snow 
 sheds we reached Marshall Pass at an elevation of 10,820 feet. 
 To acquire this height the tracks winds, twines and curves 
 over this stupendous range in the most intricate and bewil- 
 dering manner. At one point it actually climbs six miles 
 around to gain a position, only a few rods in a direct line 
 from its former position. The wild mountain scenery stirs 
 the beholder with awe. The towering bald head of Mount 
 Ouray, which has an elevation of 14,055 feet, is readily dis- 
 tinguished from the numerous projecting peaks which surround 
 it, and the beautiful snowy peaks of the Sierra Blanca, with 
 marvelous grandeur way off in the wondrously clear distance, 
 are again gracefully shifted upon the scene. After riding for 
 miles through the loveliest of ever-changing mountain scenery, 
 which almost paralyzes the beholder with its awful grandeur, 
 the train descends the Poncho Pass, at the foot of which 
 
65 
 
 rests the picturesque little village of Poncho Springs, and soon 
 steams into the brisk town of Salida. On our arrival here 
 we found a huge white trained bear attracting the attention 
 of the bystanders, but this performance soon terminated most 
 ignominiously, much to the chagrin of the master of ceremo- 
 nies, and the amusement of the audience. During the graceful 
 (?) dancing of the polka an inquisitive little canine stepped 
 upon bruin's coda, which cccasioned a scene impossible to por- 
 tray. 
 
 After supper at the Monte Cristo Hotel we took a walk 
 across the Arkansas River, up to the upper end of the prin- 
 cipal street ot this prettily-hemmed-in place. This town was 
 formerly known as Lower Arkansas. It is rapidly developing 
 into a place of importance. The weather is one of its pecu- 
 liarities, its winters being phenomenally mild. On our return 
 to the iiotel we learned that the most important personage 
 of the State ot Colorado, politically speaking, had arrived, viz : 
 Gov. Eaton. After securing a glimpse of this portly magis- 
 trate, we turned back to our car, where we found the porter 
 busily engaged in arranging the interior for our night's lodg- 
 ing. After a six o'clock breakfast the following morning we 
 left Salida, and soon enjoyed a mingling of bold and pictur- 
 esque scenes. For nearly one hundred miles the Arkansas 
 river breaks along the side of the road, now placid, then a 
 large roaring, foaming, swelling stream. The scenery in the 
 ten-mile gorge, known as the Grand Canon of the Arkansas, 
 and the Royal gorge, eclipses in grandeur, all hitherto seen. 
 High above us rose immense red granite rocks, attaining the 
 wonderful height of two thousand feet, ornamented in a few 
 favored places by trees and shrubs. The skill of the engineer, 
 as displayed in this gorge, is truly miraculous. At one place 
 where there is room for only the river, a bridge is ingeni- 
 ously hwng^ the strong supports of which are stretched across 
 the chasm. After leaving this abyss we soon enter Canon 
 City, noted for its neatly walled-up soda springs and its 
 large State penitentiary. Between here and South Pueblo, curi- 
 ous and numerous ridges of rocks are seen. The weather be- 
 came intensely warm as we neared South Pueblo. After dinner, 
 which we had at the station dining rooms of this city, we 
 were glad to hasten away to the cool and inviting retreat of 
 Manitou, where we arrived early in the evening of the same 
 day. This renowned summer resort has been christened the 
 Saratoga of the West. It is noted for the medicinal quali- 
 
ties of its numerous springs, and is surrounded by some of the 
 most mngnificent scenery in America. It rests under the snow- 
 crowned summit of Pike's Peak, at an elevation of 6,297 feet. 
 A playful, boiling little stream, called the Fontaine qui-Bouille, 
 gayly washes its way through the rocky town. It already con- 
 sists of eight hundred inhibitants, and has three churches — 
 the Episcopal, Congregational and Catholic — to keep the flock 
 from going astray 
 
 During our three days' sojourn here, a "provided" carriage 
 drive took us to the Garden of the Gods, the Ute Pass, 
 Rainbow Falls, and the Mineral Springs. The Garden of the 
 Gods is owned by a Mr. Potter, from Chicago. It contains 
 a wonderful collection of interesting and amusing natural 
 rock ornaments, the most peculiar of which are the red sand 
 stone columns at the entrance, which are three hundred and 
 eighty feet high. Among the attractions wrought by the 
 action of the wind and rain, are the Tower of Babel, a Ca- 
 thedral three hundred and thirty feet high, a seal, a Polar 
 bear, mushrooms and toad-stools, Balance rock, profile of Ben 
 Butler, Siamese Twins, Ant Eater, Lady of the Garder, Echo 
 Cave, (where a most remarkable and astonishing echo can be 
 awakened,) heads of animals, such as the buffalo, lion and 
 deer, and a host of others too numerous to mention. From 
 here our drive took us to Glen Eyrie, where we saw the 
 eagles' nests ; also, the isolated home of Gen. Potter, which 
 consists of a magnificent red sand stone mansion, with corre- 
 sponding stables, situated in a perfect wilderness ; save the 
 beautiful green lawn, sprinkled with flower beds, immediately 
 in front of the villa, a melancholy air of desolation pervades 
 the whole. 
 
 The next morning, June 18, was profitably employed in 
 visiting Colorado Springs, five miles distance. Our course 
 took us through the once-destined-to-be-capital-of-the-State, but 
 now merely a deserted country village of Colorado City. 
 
 Colorado Springs, which place by the way received its 
 name from the springs found at Manitou, is, on the whole, 
 the most beautifully-planned and handsomely-built town it 
 has ever been our lot to visit. It fairly sparkles with clean- 
 liness, culture and refinement. Some of the avenues are quite 
 Parisian-like in appearance, having double carriage ways sep- 
 arated by rows of beautiful trees. It abounds in handsome 
 churches, school houses, private residences and hotels. Horse- 
 back riding and carriage-driving are extravagantly indulged 
 
67 
 
 in by the old and young of this highly-adorned town. The 
 home of Helen Hunt, the authoress, was one of interest 
 to our party. In a cottage peeping out from luxuriant foli- 
 age and partly-concealed by neglected shrubbery, this talented 
 lady spent the last days of her life. Tier monument is the 
 yonder towering Cheyenne Mountain, where according to her 
 desire, she was buried. 
 
 The country between Colorado Springs and Manitou is highly 
 cultivated. Many large and beautiful ranches may be seen, 
 while the scenery all around is grand beyond description. 
 
 Dear Courier: — As the mountain-trail climbing passion which 
 once dwelt in our bosom had become extinct since our Yo- 
 Semite Yalley experiences, we were content to leave the sum- 
 mit of Tike's Peak all unbereft of its mystery and grandeur, 
 and confine our wanderings in the quiet valley, with that 
 snow-crowned ''beacon of '59" our constant attendant. It 
 was no disappointment to us, when we learned from a relia- 
 able source, that the trail was in an exceedingly rough and 
 dangerous condition — so much so that it was deemed imprudent 
 for the ladies ot the party to attempt the ascent. Only one 
 member of our car family possessed enough enterprise and vigor 
 to scale the rocky heights. His dejected appearance, together 
 with his grutf, "I would not do it again for twenty-five dol- 
 lars !" were proof positive oi a hard day's struggle. 
 
 The illusive power of the pure Colorado atmosphere is start- 
 ling and remarkable. In the clear sky it is impossible to real- 
 ize distances ; only the perpetual snow lodged upon the sur- 
 rounding peaks indicate the great distance and height which 
 separate them from the valley. 
 
 At eight o'clock on the bright and poetic morning of 
 June 19th, we were borne away from the cool and inviting 
 retreai of Manitou, which was left with universal regret, and 
 hastened on to Denver, the "Queen City of the Plains," where 
 we arrived at precisely twelve o'clock. This four hours' journey 
 in the stillest and sweetest of summer mornings, was a mem- 
 orable one. The "sleepers" were abandoned for the comfort- 
 able reclining chair cars, an innovation duly appreciated by 
 
68 
 
 one and all. The entire scenery of this road is interesting 
 and grand. The numerous foothills, bedecked with the rarest 
 of wild flowers, conspicuous among which was the beautiful 
 white poppy, were full of extravagant and pleasant surprises. 
 At Divide, where a gem of water known as Palmer Lake is 
 tound, we were privileged to spend a few minutes. This 
 cold, clear lake has great attractiveness as a summer resort. 
 Owing to its elevation, (7,544 feet,) the temperature in its 
 vicinity is remarkably cool and pleasant during the warmest 
 days of the hot season. The ornamental little depot received 
 its share of superlative expressions of admiration. Denver, 
 the capital of this mountainous State, the city of magic 
 growth, is finely locuted on the great plains, with the Rocky 
 mountains twelve miles distance at their nearest point, yet at 
 times having the appearance of being within easy walking 
 distance. A three-hours' carriage ride, with an exceedingly 
 communicative ex-cow boy driver, gave us a fair idea of this 
 progressive metropolis. The view from Capitol Hill is marvel- 
 ously grand — the ever-changing panoran)a of exquisite moun- 
 tain scenery, is forever spread before the occupants of the 
 palatial residences which beautify this once-barren hill, por- 
 tions of which, not so many years ago, could be purchased 
 for a mere song, now bring fabulous prices. The elegant 
 wide streets are lined on both sides, for many blocks, witli 
 magnificent private residences, many of which are surrounded 
 with extensive lawns, which are so neatly and artistically 
 mown that tiieir rcvsemblance to green plush is wonderfully 
 perfect. There is an absence, however, of luxuriant shrubbery 
 and profusion of flower beds, which fill the yards of the cities 
 farther west. Many ot the public buildings are models of 
 architecture, the most prominent being the Tabor Grand Opera 
 House, which is considered the finest structure of its kind in 
 America. Six hundred thousand dollars were spent in its con- 
 struction. It is complete in every respect. We saw it in 
 all its splendor on the occasion of a minstrel performance. The 
 court house, constructed at a cost of three hundred and thir- 
 ty-seven thousand dollars, is a notewortfiy edifice. We were 
 very courteously conducted through the building, and enjoyed 
 a rare view of the city from its dome. 
 
 In the smelting w^orks in the immediate vicinity an enor- 
 mous amount of mountain traffic is done. We visited the 
 Argo, which is the larger and more interesting of the two. 
 We found foreign element largely employed in these works, 
 
C9 
 
 which made our visit exceedingly unprofitable, as we were 
 unaccompanied by a guide. 
 
 On Sunday, June 20th, the St. John's Cathedral was filled 
 to overflowing to hear the Eev. Phillips Brooks, of Trinity 
 church, Boston. As this noted divine was one of the Ray- 
 mond excursionists, it had the tendency of gathering together 
 nearly the entire band of travelers. The speaker's subject was, 
 "Learning to Know People," founded upon the twenty-second 
 verse of the fourteenth chapter of St. John. The music on 
 this occasion was of the highest order, and was most excellently 
 rendered. 
 
 An excursion up Clear Creek Canon to Idaho Springs, George- 
 town and Silver Plume, occupied the entire day of the follow- 
 ing Tuesday. The railway through this prolific silver region is 
 so tortuous that the most wonderful engine-spinning on record 
 is here indulged in. The road crosses a?id recrosses itself at 
 will. At one point it may be seen jive times. The mountain 
 scenery is wonderfully wild and rugged. Here savage Nature 
 reigns supreme. Engulfed amidst lofty and magnificent rock- 
 work in park-like reservations, with very little room to spread 
 themselves, are found thrifty mining towns, bearing an aspect, 
 however, far from inviting. Beyond Georgetown the road forms 
 a complete loop, the line crossing itself by a bridge ninety 
 feet high. The view of the valley from this lofty point is 
 equaled by few, if any, in the world. The visit into the silver 
 mine, at Brown ville, was a decided failure, for the majority of 
 the party, owing to its muddy condition and careful ly-stored- 
 away rubbers in trunks and valises at the station of Denver 
 some fifty miles distant. 
 
 Among these grandlj^ - conspicuous groups of mountains 
 nothing is more touchingly sad than are the forlorn and des- 
 olate-looking graveyards which are occasionally shifted upon the 
 scene. On our return to Georgetown we took dinner at the 
 Barton House, after which we zig-zagged back to Denver, where 
 supper was had at six, p. m.. at the station dining room. 
 
70 
 
 Dear Courier : — The sleeper Ogalalla was the one destined to 
 carry us out of the State of Colorado — that "Land of Prom- 
 ise," through Nebraska — to Council Bluffs, Iowa. Our exit 
 from the city of Denver was made at seven, p. m., on the 
 evening of June 22d, amidst such a brilliancy, variety and 
 gorgeousness of sky scenery as is rarely witnessed, and never 
 excelled. The bewilderiui^ splendor of the sunset assured us 
 that Old Sol was desperately determined to give us a lasting 
 impression of his wondrous beautj^ in this remarkably pure, 
 clear and healthy atmosphere. 
 
 On the following morning we found ourselves in the Valley 
 ot the Platte, in the neighboring State of Nebraska. Kearney 
 Junction was the first place noted after our morning ablution. 
 A rich flood of sunshine deluged the broad expanse of highly - 
 cultivated land, variegating the scene with unprecedented bril- 
 liancy. The gorgeous atmospheric tints, mingling with the 
 fleecy clouds, produced an aspect of more than ordinary attnic- 
 tiveness. A few hours more in the pleasant glow of this 
 sparkling sunshiny morning brought us to our breakfast station. 
 Grand Island. After this meal the discovery was made that a 
 leger-dermist dwelt among us. In a mysterious manner an 
 onion was transferred into the Ogalalla. This bulb, it behooves 
 us to explain, not only caused much merriment, but was 
 doomed to become ot historical interest. 
 
 Our route led us through the prolific corn-yielding districts of 
 the ".State of the Plains." Extensive cribs filled with thousands 
 ot bushels of last year's growth skirted the road. This storage 
 had a demoralizins: tendency on the most aged member of our 
 party, who threatened to tell his friends wonderful tales ol this 
 western agricultural paradise of ours. For, whispered he in con- 
 fidence, "can I not truthfully say, that 1 saw one thousand 
 bushels of corn raised on less than an acre T' 
 
 At Omaha our family chain lost its first link. After an 
 acquaintance, such a one as is gained within the narrow lim- 
 its of a car ; after an imprisonment of days and nights in one 
 stretch, a break in a congenial company is a sad event. Such, 
 therefore, was the case when two of our most respected fel- 
 low-passengers left us at Omaha to prolong their sojourn among 
 relatives. Cro.«sing the Missouri river w^e entered the State of 
 Iowa, where dinner was had at Council Blufts. At three, p. 
 m., we continued our journey, not, however, before a most 
 
71 
 
 amusing and interesting strike was indulged in by the unpopular 
 clique hailing from Boston. Accidentally (for it conld not have 
 been otherwise,) when a change of sleepers took place, one of 
 inferior pattern and workmanship was shitted into the numer- 
 ical position belonging to this aristocratic train. A quiet in- 
 dignation meeting resulted in the piling of all their hand bag- 
 gage on the platform of the station, and a declaration made 
 in genuine Yankee venacular, that the journey would not be 
 continued by them — unless a car more in keepiufj with their 
 style and station would be forthcoming. The pale countenance 
 and knit brows of the agent plainly indicated that this time, 
 at least, he was unequally matched ; consequently the com- 
 plainants gained the day, and the wheels once more rolled 
 smoothly around, on through the undulating prairie land, 
 reaching the Capital De Moines at nine, p m. The following 
 day our meals were sumptuously furnished us in the dining 
 car. Beautiful bills of fare, napkins and floweis were presented 
 us, making interesting souvenirs of the occasion. Betore the 
 close of day, our number was again lessoned. Several more of 
 those who had endeared themselves to us branched off for a 
 more extended visit, while we that remained hastened on 
 through Illinois, Indiana, Michigan and Canada, halting at 
 Niagara Falls, in the State of New York, on Friday, June 
 25tb, where we breakfasted at the International Hotel. Only 
 a portion of the day was allotted us to view this, the sub- 
 limest spectacle in the world. A copious shower, prior to our 
 arrival, occasioned a peculiar vivifying and refreshing effect. 
 
 Through the generosity of the New York Legislature the 
 grounds adjacent to the mighty cataract have been included 
 in a public park, hence every portion of the American side 
 can be enjoyed free from the petty impositions which formerly 
 annoyed the visitor. On Goat Island we had a satisfactory 
 view of the Canadian Falls; from here the descent to the 
 Cave of the Winds is made. This cave is a place back and 
 under the Falls. An immense rock stretching out above where 
 the waters dash over makes it possible to walk beneath 
 with this mighty rush of w^ater overhead. After a walk to the 
 islands of Luna and the Three Sisters, we were ready to enjoy 
 what had been purposely reserved for last, that grandest of 
 all views, the one gained from Prospect Park. We will not 
 attempt to describe what we deem utterly indescribable. This 
 roaring, seething, plunging, tremendous rush of water must be 
 seen to be appreciated. The view from above was sufficient 
 
72 
 
 for our party of limited time ; but way down one hundred 
 and sixty feet were four adventurous ones, who were enjoying 
 this magnificence from below. Protected by yellow rubber 
 suits, they resembled seals as they clambered out on the 
 rocks. The "Maid of the Mist," a small steamer, fearlessly 
 plies the river, enabling the visitor to gain good views of 
 both sides of this stupendous work of Nature. 
 
 After a general interchange of compliments and regrets at 
 parting, we left the "Bay State" excursionists, and in the midst 
 of a tremendous thunder storm, were whirled in omnibuses 
 to the station, where we soon took the train, and before 
 another day had sunk into oblivion, our journey was ended 
 where it had begun — at the Ninth and Green streets station, 
 Philadelphia, where the final separation took place. After a 
 most friendly leave-taking, we again drifted apart, returning 
 to the care of those who had waited patiently and grown 
 anxious for us during our absence. We had traversed our 
 country from shore to shore, and traveled over ten thousand 
 miles, during these 59 memorable days of '86. 
 
 Now, kind reader, we, too, must part — since nothing more 
 remains to be told, — yes, one thought more, — let us breathe it 
 softly : 
 
 '^Be it ever so humble, there is no place like Home !" 
 
 ZiTELLA.