Floating Flies 
 
 
 .'a; ^ 'ts ' 
 
 •■^' '--rv ''^•1 
 
 HALFORD. 
 
FLOATING FLIES. 
 
FLOATING FLIES 
 
 AND HOW TO DRESS THEM 
 
 A TREATISE 
 
 ON THE MOST MODERN METHODS OF DRESSING 
 
 ARTIFICIAL FLIES FOR 
 
 TROUT AND GRAYLING 
 
 WITH FULL ILLUSTRATED DIRECTIONS AND CONTAINING 
 NINETY HAND-COLOURED ENGRAVINGS OF THE 
 
 MOST KILLING PATTERNS 
 
 TOGETHER WITH A FEW 
 
 HINTS TO DRY-FLY FISHERMEN 
 
 BY 
 
 FREDERIC ^L HALE OR I) 
 
 " Detached Badger" of " The Field" 
 Member of the '■^Houghton Club " '•'^Fly Fishers' Club " ^'c. 
 
 LONDON 
 SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, AND RIVINGTON 
 
 Crown Buildings, i88, Fleet Street 
 
 1886 
 
 {A// rights resen'ed) 
 
3H 45 
 
 CHtSWICK PRESS-— C. WHITTINGHAM AND CO., TOOKS COURT, 
 CHANCEKV LANE. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 FEW years ago I consulted a pro- 
 fessional fly-dresser as to the best means 
 of learning to make artificial flies, to 
 enable me to produce imitations of the natural 
 insects sufficiently good to serve as patterns, and 
 was seriously, and, I believe, without '' arriere 
 pe7isdel' assured by him that it was impossible for 
 an Amateur to acquire the art otherwise than by 
 taking a series of lessons at a considerable cost. 
 Having always been an unbeliever in the word 
 impossible, I determined to try and teach myself. 
 Accordingly, with a copy of Ronalds' *' Fly Fisher's 
 Entomology " opened before me, and a few in- 
 dispensable materials, I commenced trying to 
 puzzle out the mysteries of the craft. After many 
 attempts, and almost as many failures, I suc- 
 ceeded in turning out something remotely akin 
 in form and colour to the Red Spinner illus- 
 trated in that admirable treatise, and was further 
 encouraged by finding a grayling sufficiently silly 
 to take this bad imitation. I then set to work in 
 right earnest, and dressed fly after fly, mostly de- 
 
 ivi84;2083 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 formed in shape and Inartistic in colouring, but, 
 gradually, from mere dint of practice, producing 
 artificials more nearly approaching my ideal, until 
 ultimately I found myself able to tie a more or 
 less creditable fly which the fish would occasionally 
 deign to mistake for the natural insect. 
 
 About this period I took counsel of a friend, 
 whose acquaintance I had made some short time 
 previously, and who, in addition to being one of 
 the best, if not the best dry-fly fisherman in 
 England, was an adept in all the minutiee of dyeing, 
 selecting, and preparing the materials, as well as 
 the construction of artificial flies. To this friend, 
 George Selwyn Marryat, I desire to express the 
 deepest gratitude for the unwearying patience and 
 perfect unselfishness with which he gradually in- 
 ducted me into every detail known to him, and gave 
 me the benefit of his invaluable experience, con- 
 cealing nothing which would tend to perfect me in 
 the art of imitating the various winged inhabitants 
 of the stream. I soon found that I had acquired 
 the means of giving myself a most pleasurable 
 occupation during the long winter months, when 
 fly-fishing was an impossible pursuit either from 
 the exigencies of an active City life, or from the 
 river being closed during the spawning-time of 
 the trout. 
 
 The object of this work is to try and impart to 
 others the knowledge I thus gained, and to save 
 them many of the wearisome failures experienced 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 through my ignorance of anything beyond the mere 
 rudiments of the subject to be learned from a 
 book. If I fail in this object, pray, kindly reader, 
 impute the failure to my lack of words to express 
 distinctly each operation ; and if perchance I am 
 successful in stimulating your desire to dress your 
 own flies, and in showing you, as I fervently hope 
 to do, how to accomplish this end, I shall be 
 amply rewarded by your appreciation of these 
 pages. 
 
 Before launching my little bark upon the open 
 waters, I must perform the pleasant duty of 
 acknowledging assistance received in the details 
 of production. Publishers are usually very loth 
 to incur the responsibilities of bringing out works 
 of this character, which entail much expense, and 
 require great delicacy of management in several 
 important particulars. Few persons can imagine 
 the difficulties to be overcome, and I feel that not 
 only my individual thanks, but possibly the thanks 
 of the entire angling fraternity, are heartily due 
 to Messrs. Sampson Low, Marston, Searle, and 
 Rivington, and in an especial degree to Mr. R. B. 
 Marston, Editor of the '* Fishing Gazette," who 
 took a deep personal interest in the progress of 
 the venture. This firm not only undertook the 
 heavy pecuniary liability and rendered me every 
 assistance in their power, but gave me practically 
 carte blanche in arranging matters of detail with 
 printers, engravers on stone and wood, and 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 colourists, each of whom has in his own particular 
 calling successfully striven to convey accurately to 
 the reader the Author s ideas. 
 
 Frederic M. Halford. 
 
 35, Inverness Terrace, 
 October, 1885. 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 Chapter I. 
 On Eyed-Hook s . . ''^^t 
 
 P.S. — It may be noticed that In the diagrams of 
 fly-dressing, the tying silk Is lapped In the opposite 
 (or what some might call left-handed) direction to 
 that adopted by the majority of professionals and 
 amateurs. Attention is directed to this with the 
 view of pointing out that it is not a blunder on 
 the part of either the draughtsman or engraver. 
 With the extreme end held In the left hand on 
 top of the hook-shank I commence winding the 
 silk with the right hand towards me. By pro- 
 ceeding in this way there Is a natural inclination to 
 pause and draw the silk down tightly when the 
 hand is below the hook, and this is less likely to 
 obscure the view of the work than with the more 
 usual plan of winding the silk away from the 
 operator. 
 
PREFACE, 
 
 colourists, each of whom has in his own particular 
 calling successfully striven to convey accurately to 
 the reader the Author s Ideas. 
 
 Frederic M. Halford. 
 
 35, Inverness Terrace, 
 October, 1885. 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 Chapter I. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 On Eyed-Hooks i 
 
 Chapter II. 
 On Materials and Implements for Fly Dressing. 7 
 
 Chapter III. 
 On Dyeing 22 
 
 Chapter IV. 
 To Dress Floating Flies on Eyed-Hooks . . 31 
 
 Chapter V. 
 On Artificial Flies 75 
 
 Chapter VI. 
 Hints to Dry-Fly Fishermen 116 
 
LIST OF COLOURED PLATES. 
 
 Crawshaw and Co.'s Special Dyes . to face page 30 
 
 Plate I. — Olive Duns .... „ „ 84 
 
 5, II. — Blue Duns and Hare's Ears „ „ 88 
 
 ,, III. — Red Spinners, Wickhams, 
 Indian Yellow, Little 
 Marryat, Blue Winged 
 Olive, etc. ... „ „ 92 
 
 „ IV. — Hackle Duns and Spinners, 
 
 Badgers, etc. ... » » 9^ 
 
 „ V. — Bumbles, Red Tags, Green 
 
 Insect, etc. . . . „ „ 100 
 
 ,, VI. — Grannom, Alder, Ants, Fish- 
 erman's Curse, Black 
 Gnats, etc, . . . „ ,,104 
 
 ,, VII. — Sedges, etc „ ,,108 
 
 „ VIII. — Green Drakes . . . „ ?? 112 
 
 „ IX. — Spent Gnats. . . . „ ,,114 
 
CHAPTER L 
 
 ON EYED-HO O K S. 
 
 EFORE many years are past the old- 
 fashioned fly, dressed on a hook attached 
 to a length of gut, will be practically 
 obsolete, the advantages of the eyed-hook being so 
 manifest that even the most conservative adhe- 
 rents of the old school, must, in time, be imbued 
 with this most salutary reform. As a mere ques- 
 tion of the comparative convenience of stowing 
 away the flies, the absence of that cumbersome 
 coil of gut, and the consequently smaller space in 
 which those on eyed-hooks can be packed, would 
 of itself be sufficient inducement to many anglers 
 to adopt this improvement ; but when, in addition to 
 this, they take Into consideration the disappointment 
 of finding last year's stock utterly unreliable; either 
 from the gut having become partially decomposed 
 by exposure to the air, or through the flies "draw- 
 ing," owing to the wax on the tying-silk having 
 
 B 
 
2 ON EYED-HOOKS. 
 
 dried up, they will doubtlessly arrive at the con- 
 clusion that the invention of Mr. Hall, — or, rather, 
 adaptation by that gentleman to small flies, of the 
 old plan of forming the loop of a salmon or large 
 trout fly, by turning up the wire of the hook itself, — 
 is one which should commend itself to all votaries 
 of the gentle craft. A great disadvantage of the 
 old style of fly on gut, was that, in taking one out 
 of a coil of half-a-dozen on a windy day, some two 
 or three of those remaining were frequently blown 
 away, and valuable time lost in vainly searching for 
 them in the long grass. 
 
 Flies dressed on eyed-hooks float better and 
 with less drying than those constructed on the old 
 system. I am quite prepared to find some con- 
 troversy raised on the point, and hence would 
 urge those who dissent from this well-considered 
 opinion to remember that in the case of the hook 
 lashed to the gut by the waxed silk, there is in 
 the body the additional weight of the gut itself, 
 and, certainly, far more silk and wax, owing to the 
 foundation of the body being increased in thick- 
 ness by the substance of the gut. This increase is 
 even more than appears at the first glance, seeing 
 that the augmentation in the diameter of the body 
 produces more than thrice that augmentation in 
 the circumference or quantity of silk and wax used 
 in binding it. 
 
 Another, and, in my opinion, paramount benefit 
 is, that at the very earliest symptom of weakness 
 
ON EYED-HOOKS, 3 
 
 at the point of juncture of the head of the fly and 
 gut (the point at which the maximum wear and 
 tear takes place) it is only necessary in the case of 
 the eyed-fly to break it off and tie on afresh, sacri- 
 ficing at most a couple of inches of the fine end of 
 the cast ; while in the case of the hook on gut, the 
 fly has become absolutely useless and beyond re- 
 pair. It must also be remembered that with eyed- 
 hooks the angler can use gut as coarse or fine as he 
 may fancy for the particular day, while with flies on 
 gut he would require to have each pattern dressed 
 on two or three different thicknesses. 
 
 Some discussion has been raised lately in the 
 press, on the comparative advantages of turned-up 
 and turned-down eyes, and much stress laid by 
 some of our highest angling authorities on the 
 direction of the pull on the hook. In down-stream 
 fishing, with sunk fly, this point may certainly be 
 of importance, but to the dry-fly fisherman, for 
 whose perusal this work is intended, seeing that 
 the smallest drag is at once fatal, it cannot be 
 material. For attaching the flies, I am distinctly 
 of opinion that Mr. Hall's form of the eye, in- 
 clined upwards, is more convenient and therefore 
 preferable. 
 
 As to the special knot to be used for fastening 
 the hook to the cast, Mr. Hall's original one is be- 
 yond doubt the most secure, and for the full infor- 
 mation of any not already cognizant of his method, 
 the full directions are appended in his own words, 
 
4 ON EYED-HOOKS. 
 
 as given in '' The Fishing Gazette " of April 1 2th, 
 1 884, viz. : — 
 
 " Directions. 
 
 '' Take the hook between finger and thumb of 
 
 the left hand, and push the gut through the eye (as 
 
 shown by the arrow) ; take a turn round the shank 
 
 and back again through the eye (^g, i). The 
 
 end A, which should not be less than \\ inch long, 
 is then tied In a single knot round the long end of 
 the gut. If the gut is well wetted and a gentle 
 pull given, the single knot will slide down to the 
 eye and form a perfectly secure and rigid fastening, 
 and the gut will stand out in the direction of the 
 shank of the hook. The superfluous end of a 
 may be cut off quite close to the eye." 
 
 Some anglers may point out the difficulty, 
 especially to those whose sight is not very good, 
 of passing the end of the gut cast twice through 
 the eye of the hook, and, in the case of the very 
 smallest flies dressed on 00 and 000 hooks, I must 
 confess that this is a feat occasionally almost im- 
 possible to accomplish. Others may complain of 
 the unpleasant manner In which many professional 
 fly-dressers fill the eye up with varnish. The 
 
ON EYED-HOOKS. .5 
 
 latter fault Is due either to the ignorance or to the 
 carelessness of the workman, and the remedy is a 
 very simple one, viz., to return or refuse to pur- 
 chase any flies so finished. 
 
 The following method of attaching eyed-hooks, 
 the Invention of Major Turle, will obviate the 
 former objection raised. The advantages of this 
 method over all others are that the end of the gut 
 is passed only once through the eye ; the knot is a 
 perfectly simple one, and yet quite secure ; and 
 while tying it, the fly, being pushed well up the 
 east, is entirely out of the way of the operator's 
 fingers, and cannot be dropped. 
 
 Pass the end of the gut cast A, previously well 
 soaked, upwards through the eye, and draw the fly 
 well up the cast, so as to be out of the way. Carry 
 the end of the gut 
 round itself to form V 
 an open loop 
 shown ({\g. 2). 
 
 With the end a 
 make an open turn 
 round the gut and 
 end of the loop 
 
 (fig- 3)- 
 
 Pass the end a 
 
 through the open 
 
 turn just made CT^ 
 
 (fig. 4). Fig. 4. 
 
 Draw the knot thus made nearly tight ; if drawn 
 
6 ON EYED-HOOKS. 
 
 quite tight it is apt to fray the gut in the sub- 
 sequent operations. Pass the fly through the 
 
 loop, and place the knot 
 on top of the neck of the 
 
 eye (%. 5)- 
 
 Bend the loop down- 
 wards, at the same time 
 carefully drawing the fibres of the hackle clear 
 of it ; and, holding the fly between the thumb and 
 forefinger of the left hand, draw the loop up close 
 with the upper part of the 
 cast. Pull the knot quite tight 
 with the end a i^^g, 6). 
 
 Cut off the projecting end 
 jTj 5 A, and the fly is securely 
 
 fastened. 
 Every dry-fly fisherman who has tried eyed- 
 hooks, will admit that they last much longer 
 and are far less liable to be cracked off than 
 those on gut, this being due to the strain at the 
 head of the fly being, in all cases, borne by a 
 double thickness of gut ; and in making very long 
 casts this is a most decided economy in expendi- 
 ture, both of cash, and what is, perhaps, even more 
 important when the fish are rising, of time. 
 
^'^^^^- 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 ON MATERIALS AND IMPLEMENTS FOR FLY 
 DRESSING. 
 
 HAVE, as far as possible, in the selec- 
 tion of materials, indicated such as can 
 be readily obtained, although in some 
 instances it has been found necessary to illustrate 
 patterns requiring feathers which are very scarce ; 
 but in every case where a fair imitation can be 
 produced from the plumage of a bird indigenous to 
 this country, or inexpensive to purchase, I have 
 given the preference to this, or at least described 
 the rendering with the native bird as a substitute 
 for the rarer, though possibly more appropriate 
 material which it may be almost impossible to find 
 or procure by any means open to the ordinary 
 amateur. 
 
 Of all feathers required for fly dressing, the 
 hackle is the one to be placed first on the list, as 
 being the most important, and, unfortunately, at the 
 same time, the most difficult to procure. For float- 
 ing flies cock hackles are so immeasurably superior, 
 
8 ON MATERIALS AND IMPLEMENTS 
 
 both as to their natural gloss and transparency, as 
 well as the greater ease -with which they are freed 
 from moisture in fishing, that, excepting in the 
 case of honey duns and other very rare colours, I 
 have practically discarded all hen hackles from 
 my collection. It must be noted that hackles 
 should be taken from a cock of eighteen months to 
 two years old, and the best time of the year to take 
 them is about Christmas. An exception to this 
 rule should be made in the case of dun hackles, 
 which are blue or grizzled at Christmas, but before 
 the autumn moult have golden or sunburnt points, 
 though a trifle more ragged in the fibre. Common 
 barndoor fowls seldom produce such hackles as 
 would please the critical eye of the connoisseur, 
 and when it is remembered how few in number 
 on any bird are sufficiently small to dress duns, 
 some idea may be formed of the almost insuper- 
 able difficulty of accumulating a really serviceable 
 stock : in fact, it is almost impossible to get cock 
 hackles really fit for fly-making purposes, except 
 by purchasing them at considerable cost from 
 professional breeders, or from the fishing-tackle 
 makers. I can only make one suggestion on the 
 subject to amateur fly-dressers, resident in the 
 metropolis, who do not care to pay the fancy 
 prices asked in the shops, and that is to try and 
 induce some of their country cousins to keep and 
 breed fowls of the kind required, especially for the 
 production of dun hackles. I have succeeded in 
 
FOR FL V DRESSING. 9 
 
 persuading" a relative to perpetuate a good strain 
 of Blue Andaluslans, and to save for my own use 
 the hackles of every bird, cock or hen (which In so 
 rare a colour as this must not be despised), killed 
 for the table, or which has succumbed to accident, 
 or to the pugnacious propensities of the remaining 
 denizens of the poultry yard. 
 
 Another great difficulty In respect to hackles, is 
 the great proportion that are more or less deformed 
 in shape. The typically perfect hackle should 
 follow the form indicated by the annexed geo- 
 metrical sketch, In which the line a b represents 
 the full length of the cen- 
 tral quill of the hackle after 
 stripping from it the downy 
 part at the root ; on the 
 line A B set up a perpen- 
 dicular D A c, and let a c in length be one-fourth 
 of A B ; join c b and d b. The fibres forming the 
 triangle a c B, when at right angles to a b, would 
 be those of a perfectly proportioned hackle, and, 
 although such mathematically correct things do 
 not exist In nature, the nearer they approach this 
 ideal the better will be the form of the artificial fly 
 produced. In the majority of hackles It will, how- 
 ever, be found that as they approach the point, the 
 fibres become too long In proportion, and In many 
 are actually longer than a c and a d, which should, 
 of course, be the longest fibres in the hackle. 
 
 Red, ginger, and furnace hackles can be best ob- 
 
lo ON MATERIALS AND IMPLEMENTS 
 
 tained from game cocks, and well-shaped ones, in 
 which the colour on both sides is nearly the same, 
 are simply invaluable. Badger hackles of the 
 approved tint,, viz., dark brown, nearly black 
 centres, and cream-coloured (not white) points, are 
 found on Dorkings. For dyeing, pure white 
 hackles from white bantams and the licrhtest of 
 the Andalusians are usually selected, but, if not 
 savouring too much of extravagance, the best duns, 
 especially those which are shaded or flecked with 
 yellowish or ginger points, are certainly the most 
 successful for dyeing in the various shades and tints 
 of olives. Natural black hackles are usually rusty, 
 and require dyeing to make them jet black — a pro- 
 cess not attainable by amateurs. For small flies, 
 the best black hackles to use are those from the 
 neck of an old cock starlincr. All hackles before 
 
 o 
 
 using require to have the downy portion at the 
 root-end stripped off. Various recipes are given in 
 angling books for preserving hackles and other 
 feathers from the ravages of moths, such as pepper, 
 tobacco leaf, camphor, cedar chips, colocynth or 
 bitter apple, &c. ; but the only really efficacious and 
 certain preventive, is to immerse them for a few 
 minutes in a solution of Corrosive Sublimate in 
 Alcohol. 
 
 When any close-plumed feathers such as the 
 neck feathers of pheasant, partridge, grouse, grey 
 hen, &c., are used as hackles, after stripping off 
 the downy part at the root-end of the quill, take 
 
FOR FLY DRESSING. ii 
 
 the extreme point between the thumb and fore- 
 finger of the left hand, and with the right thumb 
 and forefinger, sHghtly moistened, stroke back the 
 whole of the plume except the small portion held 
 between the left thumb and forefinger, as shown 
 by the sketch (fig. 7). 
 
 Fig. 7. 
 
 For the legs and bodies of some flies the hair 
 or fur of certain animals (dubbing) is used in 
 place of ordinary hackles ; and in such cases the 
 plan adopted is to spin or twist it on the tying- 
 silk for the body of the fly, taking care to put 
 an extra thickness on to the shoulder-end of the 
 body, tapering it to the tail, and after the fly 
 is completed to pick out with the dubbing-needle 
 a few fibres to form the legs. There are, how- 
 ever, patterns in which the body is of plain silk 
 or quill, and the legs only of dubbing, and in 
 these instances a somewhat more complicated pro- 
 cedure is necessary, viz. :— -Thoroughly wax a 
 short length of tying-silk and double it over the 
 dubbing-needle, the point of which is firmly stuck 
 into the edge of the operating- table. Separate 
 
12 ON MATERIALS AND IMPLEMENTS 
 
 the fibres of the hair or fur to be used, and lay 
 them as much as possible horizontally across one 
 end of the tying-silk a, fig. 8 ; place the other 
 end of the silk over and press it closely down on 
 the fur, fig. 9 ; then, taking the two ends of the silk 
 between the thumb and forefinger of the right 
 hand, twist up tightly. The effect of this will be to 
 
 Fig. 8. Fig. 9. Fig. 10. 
 
 twist up the silk and fur between the two ends of 
 it, as shown in fig. 10, into a rough-looking hackle, 
 which is used exactly like an ordinary one, the silk 
 representing the central quill, and the fur the fibres 
 of the hackle. By the same method, having a 
 hackle of the right colour, but too long in the fibre 
 for the size of the hook, the dresser can, by detach- 
 ing the separate strands, laying them horizontally 
 across a length of thoroughly waxed doubled tying- 
 silk, and, twisting them up as above, produce an 
 
FOR FLY DRESSING. 13 
 
 imitation hackle with fibres only half the length of 
 the natural one from which they were taken. 
 
 The following list will comprise nearly all the 
 other feathers required : — 
 
 Wings of starling, both young and old, of coot, 
 snipe, landrail, water rail, thrush, young grouse, 
 partridge, pheasant (cock and hen), woodcock, and 
 jay ; also the brown pink feathers from under the 
 wings of a peacock, and tail feathers from the tom- 
 tit, partridge, pheasant, and golden pheasant. 
 
 For dubbing bodies, &c., — fur from the hare's ear, 
 hare's face, hare's fleck or hair outside the shoulder, 
 the palest buff-coloured fur from the flanks and 
 belly of the opossum, mole, water-rat, and common 
 mouse, with odds and ends of cuttings from any 
 light blue, yellow, or brown refuse furs in a furrier's 
 shop. These, with various coloured crewels torn 
 to shreds, will, when properly blended, produce 
 almost any tint required ; the blending merely con- 
 sisting In tearing the separate threads into shreds 
 with the fingers, mixing them and tearing them up 
 together, until the various shades and colours are 
 thoroughly incorporated. A little practice will 
 enable an amateur naturally gifted with an eye for 
 colour to match almost any shade or tint with 
 dubbing. 
 
 Floss silks of different colours were formerly 
 much appreciated for bodies, but the more modern 
 plan of using various quills, either In their natural 
 state or dyed, is a very great improvement. The 
 
14 ON MATERIALS AND IMPLEMENTS 
 
 colour of silk bodies when wetted is so much 
 darkened and even altered in character, that it is 
 almost impossible to tell, excepting by experiment 
 with each colour and shade, what it really will 
 appear when presented to the fish ; but in the case 
 of quills, the colour is absolutely identical whether 
 wet or dry, the only effect of the water being 
 to render the quill body a little more transparent 
 in appearance. Another great disadvantage to the 
 dry-fly fisherman when using flies with silk or 
 dubbing bodies, is the extreme difficulty of drying 
 them when once saturated with moisture. Possibly 
 at some future date a means of thoroughly water- 
 proofing dubbing may be invented, and if so, I 
 venture to predict that the dubbing body will en- 
 tirely supersede the quill, as being so much more 
 transparent and watery in appearance, although I 
 do not attach much importance to the dictum of 
 Ronalds, that bodies of other than soft materials 
 are unsuccessful, owing to the fish rapidly ejecting 
 them from their mouths : to my notion, by the 
 time the fish has discovered that the body of the 
 fly in his mouth is an imitation, he is either securely 
 hooked, or the reverse. 
 
 Quill being at the present time the most suitable 
 material, its use is recommended wherever practic- 
 able. The quill generally used is a strand from a 
 peacock-eye or end of the tail feather, and in dye- 
 ing the quills the whole eye is operated on at once. 
 Before working it into the body each strand, 
 
FOR FLY DRESSING. 15 
 
 whether natural or dyed, is stripped of the metallic 
 flue adhering to it by drawing the strand several 
 times from point to root between the nail of the 
 right thumb and the ball of the right forefinger. 
 The beginner must not be discouraged at finding 
 that he breaks an abnormally large proportion of 
 the quills in stripping them. In all cases select 
 the upper strands of the eye for dyeing pale colours, 
 as they show a larger proportion of the light 
 ground of the quill and a smaller proportion of 
 dark stripe. For very pale tints the peacock-eye 
 can be more or less bleached before dyeing by im- 
 mersion for a longer or shorter time in ** Di-oxide 
 of Hydrogen " or '* Ozone Bleach," as it is usually 
 called. In fact it can be rendered absolutely white. 
 Care, however, must be taken not to leave the 
 feather too long in the bleach, as it has a tendency 
 to rot or weaken it. Any feather can be bleached 
 in the same preparation, but in all cases the opera- 
 tor must avoid spilling any of the liquid on his 
 hands, as it is said to be caustic in its effect. 
 
 Peacock herl or the longer fibres from the tail 
 feathers are indispensable, especially those of a 
 copper-bronze hue, which are used without strip- 
 ping, either single strands for ribbing the bodies, 
 or two or three twisted tightly together to form 
 the bodies themselves. The colour of the copper 
 herl is much improved by dyeing in Crawshaw's 
 '' Magenta." Some strands of peacock herl are of a 
 pale cinnamon tint towards the root-end, and are 
 
1 6 ON MATERIALS AND IMPLEMENTS 
 
 used in their natural state for ribbing the bodies of 
 the Spent Gnat, and the cinnamon-coloured ends 
 only, when stripped, are invaluable for the bodies 
 of such flies as the Cinnamon Quill. The green- 
 peacock herl is obtained from the sword feather, 
 and the long strands of it should be invariably used 
 when the body of a fly is ribbed with peacock, ex- 
 cept in patterns where the copper-coloured ribbing 
 is indispensable, the herl from the sword feather 
 belpg much narrower and stronger than that from 
 the ordinary tail feather. For green-peacock herl 
 bodies two or three of the shorter strands of the 
 sword feather twisted together should be used. 
 
 Strands of ostrich feathers, black and white, 
 heron herl, and the fibres from the wing feather of 
 an ordinary grey goose are also occasionally useful. 
 Tail and pinion feathers from the condor and the 
 adjutant are very difficult to obtain, but immeasur- 
 ably superior to any other quills for bodies, whether 
 dyed or in their natural state. They are far 
 tougher and stronger than any peacock ; there is a 
 flue on each side of the quill, one much longer and 
 fuller than the other ; and the longer of these flues 
 only can be stripped from the quills by tearing it 
 down with the thumb-nail and forefinger of the 
 right hand. The pale colour of the condor quill 
 lends Itself admirably for dyeing to the pale unde- 
 cided tints so prevalent among the duns during the 
 summer months. The slate blue of the adjutant, 
 when dyed in the manner and preparation here- 
 
FOR FLY DRESSING. 17 
 
 after described, is undoubtedly the best quill for 
 the body of an ordinary Red-spinner. 
 
 Quills for bodies can also be obtained from the 
 wing and tail feathers of starling, coot, chaffinch, 
 partridge, &c. The method to be adopted is to 
 make a sliofht incision in the surface of the central 
 quill, near the extreme point, with a sharp knife 
 downwards and towards the root-end of the feather, 
 slightly raising the outer surface of the quill with 
 the knife. Holding the feather in the left hand, 
 and catching the projecting end raised by the knife 
 between the nail of the right thumb and the ball of 
 the forefinger, the quill can be torn clear of the 
 feather ; it then requires to be passed backwards 
 and forwards between the right thumb-nail and fore- 
 finger several times, to remove any of the pith re- 
 maining on the under-side of the quill : these quills 
 take the dyes readily, but should be thoroughly 
 soaked in warm water before using, to render them 
 quite soft. India-rubber for detached or ordinary 
 bodies can either be cut with a wet sharp knife from 
 the ordinary bottle-rubber, or thin slips drawn from 
 elastic webbing can be used. In all cases select the 
 palest and most transparent pieces for this purpose. 
 
 Wheaten straw, or maize, such as is used for the 
 covering of Mexican cigarettes, are the best 
 materials for May-fly bodies. Ordinary shoe- 
 maker's bristles are required for the foundation of 
 detached bodies, and horsehair, either white, dyed, 
 or natural colours, for covering them. 
 
 c 
 
 V 
 
1 8 ON MATERIALS AND IMPLEMENTS 
 
 Pike scales, prepared by a process patented by 
 Mr. Macnee, of Bohally, Pitlochry, make very 
 good transparent wings for black gnats. For 
 May-fly wings use the saddle or breast feathers 
 from the Canadian Wood or Summer duck, Egyptian 
 goose, Rouen drake, either dyed or natural, and 
 pintail or teal. Such feathers as the little scarlet 
 ones on the neck of the ibis, the orange of the 
 Indian crow, or the blue and yellow tail feathers of 
 the macaw, are occasionally useful for grayling flies. 
 
 For whisks or tails, in addition to the ordinary 
 cock beard hackles, tail feathers from the Bird of 
 Paradise, brown mallard wing (called *' spey " 
 feathers), fibres from partridge or pheasant tail, and 
 small rabbit's or rat's whiskers should be included 
 in a fly-dresser's collection. Mr. Marryat is of 
 opinion that whisks of cock gallina neck feathers, 
 dyed or natural, are tougher and less liable to break 
 in use than any ordinary cock hackles. 
 
 Gold or silver wire, twist or flat tinsel of various 
 width and thickness, can be procured from the 
 manufacturers of military lace, badges, &c. 
 
 For tying-silk, when making small flies, nothing 
 I have yet seen can compare for quality with 
 Messrs. PearsalFs reels of gossamer silk made for 
 the purpose, and the same silk doubled and slightly 
 twisted together before being waxed, for larger pat- 
 terns. The pale-coloured ones only should be used, 
 such as the white, cream, yellow, orange, and red, 
 always selecting a paler shade, but similar In tone 
 
FOR FLY DRESSING. 19 
 
 to that of the body of the fly. As an example, for 
 the palest olives use cream-coloured tying-silk, and 
 for the darker olives the various shades of yellow. 
 
 The numerous recipes given in general angling 
 books for preparing transparent wax, are, without 
 exception, unsuccessful : the wax so prepared is 
 either brittle and hence difficult to get to adhere to 
 the silk, or it is too soft, and rapidly becomes greasy 
 in use. Ordinary rod-maker's wax is the best, and 
 in dressing flies with delicate-coloured bodies it 
 should be rendered as nearly colourless as possible 
 by continually pulling it out into thin strips and 
 working them up together. A small bottle of 
 varnish made by dissolving pure shellac in spirits of 
 wine will practically complete the list of materials. 
 
 As to the implements required, although not an 
 absolute necessity, a vice is a great help, especially 
 in making the very small flies. No one, amateur 
 or professional, after once experiencing the advan- 
 tages of having the hook rigidly held by a pro- 
 cess which leaves both hands free, would ever 
 revert to the old and uncomfortable plan of holding 
 the bend of the hook between the thumb and 
 forefinger of the left hand throughout the opera- 
 tion of tying. A really good serviceable vice, 
 however, is not easily procured, as those usually 
 made and sold in the tackle shops for the purpose 
 are faulty in design, and inferior in construction 
 and material ; the jaws, instead of being made of 
 the finest and hardest cast steel, are of case-har- 
 
2 ON MATERIALS AND IMPLEMENTS 
 
 dened iron or some such unreliable metal ; the 
 screw to compress them is of soft iron, placed 
 
 Fig. II. 
 
 much too far from the holding faces of the jaws, 
 and usually made with a clumsy head, and the 
 
FOR FLY DRESSING, 2i 
 
 point projecting beyond the vice, so as to be in the 
 way of the fly-dresser at every turn of the silk, 
 Messrs. Holtzapffel and Co., 64, Charing Cross, 
 now keep vices specially made for the amateur 
 fly-dresser's use, in accordance with the author's 
 views, as illustrated (fig. 1 1 ), and although the 
 prime cost is necessarily somewhat higher, yet in 
 this, as in most other mechanical apparatus, the 
 comparatively costly, but properly-made and well- 
 finished article will, in the end, prove cheaper than 
 the rubbish ordinarily sold for such purpose. The 
 loose hook immediately above the clamp is in- 
 tended to be used when twisting and waxing the 
 doubled silk for large flies. 
 
 A sharp penknife, a strong pair of scissors for 
 rough use, a dubbing-needle, which Is simply a fairly 
 large blunt-pointed needle mounted In a handle, 
 a pair of curved oculist's scissors, the hackle pliers, 
 and a pair of long bull-dog pliers, as Illustrated In 
 the directions for making the upright reverse- 
 winged duns,^ will complete the amateur's equip- 
 ment. 
 
 ' See page 53. 
 
CHAPTER III 
 
 ON DYEING. 
 
 T is proposed in this work to describe 
 generally the process of dyeing each 
 colour required for the list of flies illus- 
 trated. The great secret in getting the tints accu- 
 rately consists in using very weak solutions of the 
 various dyes, and giving plenty of time for each 
 operation. In some cases it is necessary to leave 
 the materials for many days in the preparations, 
 and in others a few moments are sufficient ; con- 
 tinual experiment, attention to detail, and plenty of 
 patience, will enable the amateur to succeed even- 
 tually, and above all I would proffer the advice not 
 to be discouraged by failure. I should probably 
 be charged with exaggeration in attempting to 
 give the reader any idea of the number of times I 
 have failed, and still fail in hitting off the exact 
 tone and shade required. 
 
 The apparatus necessary is of a very simple and 
 inexpensive character : it comprises a few common 
 glazed earthenware pipkins ; a spirit lamp to heat 
 
ON D YEING^ 27, 
 
 the ingredients and keep them simmering; or, better 
 still, one of " Splelman's Automatic Gas Heaters," 
 — a small, Inexpensive apparatus, possessing great 
 heating power, so contrived that the weight of the 
 utensil placed upon it automatically ignites the 
 heater, while its removal cuts off the flame ; — and 
 a few chemist's glass stirring-rods for mixing the 
 dyes or handling the feathers, &c. When dyeing 
 a number of hackles, or other feathers. It is a great 
 convenience to have a small, deep colander, which 
 will fit into the pipkins ; in this way the whole of 
 the materials to be dyed are kept together, and put 
 into and taken out of the dye simultaneously, so 
 that while examining a single specimen for colour, 
 the remainder are not being dyed a darker tinge. 
 It Is well to note that as soon as the colander is 
 withdrawn from the dye in the pipkin, the whole 
 of the contents should be thoroughly washed out 
 by turning a stream of clean cold water through 
 the colander ; otherwise, when taking out a feather, 
 and while drying and examining it for colour, the 
 small quantity of dye left on the other feathers in 
 the colander will frequently be found to have 
 deepened their tint considerably. All dyeing 
 should be done in distilled water, or if this is not 
 procurable, in soft (rain) water, and notes should 
 be carefully made of the proportionate quantity 
 of the ingredients used, as well as the exact time 
 required to produce each colour or shade. 
 
 All feathers, or other animal matter, before 
 
2 4 ON DYEING. 
 
 being dyed, should be soaked for some hours in a 
 solution of alum, about i oz. to a quart of boiling 
 water, or in a weaker solution of potash or ordi- 
 nary washing soda, the object of this being to 
 remove sufficient of the natural grease from the 
 fibres to enable the colour to strike. After dyeing, 
 wash thoroughly in cold water, shake out as much 
 of the wet as possible ; and then put the feathers 
 in an ordinary hat-box, and keep shaking the box 
 about before a bright fire. This dries the feathers 
 thoroughly, and the effect of shaking during de- 
 siccation is that every fibre arranges itself in its 
 natural position. If hackles, or other feathers, 
 whether dyed or natural, become crushed or dis- 
 arranged, a thorough soaking in boiling water, fol- 
 lowed by the above drying process, will restore 
 them to their natural shape. 
 
 The following are a few useful recipes for 
 dyes : — 
 
 Green Olive, 
 
 Boil a tea-cup of ebony chips in a quart of dis- 
 tilled or soft water, to which is added a piece 
 of chrome potash, about the size of a small pea ; 
 boil down to a pint, fill up to a quart again, and 
 again boil down to a pint. Pour the clear solution 
 off this into another vessel, and add three drops of 
 muriate of tin. Immerse the feathers in this until 
 dyed to shade. 
 
 Medium Olive, 
 
 Boil, for two or three hours, two good handfuls 
 
ON DYEING, 25 
 
 of the outside brown leaves or coating of an onion 
 root, in a quart of vinegar and distilled water in 
 equal parts. Pour off the clear liquid Into another 
 vessel, and immerse the materials to be dyed in it. 
 If the colour be too pale and yellow, the addition 
 of the smallest possible piece of copperas will pro- 
 duce a browner and darker shade. 
 
 Brown Olive. 
 The addition of a small quantity of black tea, 
 and a small piece of copperas, to the preparation 
 for medium olive, will produce the mixture neces- 
 sary to dye this ; the more copperas Is added, the 
 browner and darker the colour becomes. 
 
 Green D7'ake. 
 
 For dyeing green drake wings, the two following 
 recipes are admirable : — 
 
 A. (Mr. Marryat's.) Soak the feathers for at least 
 twenty-four hours in solution of aliim^ then rinse 
 out In cold water ; make a decoction of a handful 
 of outside onion-leaves to a pint of boiling water. 
 Dye the feathers in this until they are a distinctly 
 orange olive tint, wash out thoroughly, and then 
 dye in a solution of a quart of boiling water to a 
 small quantity of Judson's "slate," a few drops of 
 Stevens' Blue Black Ink, and two or three grains of 
 Crawshaw's ''green." If the colour produced is in 
 any way bright it is wrong, and the feathers must 
 be taken out just as the latter dye Is driving off 
 
2 6 ON DYEING. 
 
 the former. By the use of this recipe, the green 
 drake wings are dyed of the subdued bkie green 
 tint of the natural fly. 
 
 B. (G. Holland, of Failsworth, near Manchester.) 
 I. In a quart of soft water, put half a teacup of 
 ebony chips, a quarter of a teacup of logwood 
 chips, and a piece of chrome potash the size of a 
 small pea ; boll to rather over a pint ; put In the 
 feathers and dye them to a dirty blue brown. 
 
 2. In a fresh vessel, put a piece of extract of 
 fustic with a quart of soft water, simmer, and pour 
 over the feathers already taken out of No. 1 dye ; 
 let them remain fifteen minutes, then add five drops 
 of double muriate of tin, and simmer to shade, 
 which should be that known as the " Champion " of 
 the late John Hammond, a decidedly dark brown 
 olive tint. 
 
 Slate. 
 A handful of logwood chips to a quart of boiling 
 water, simmer two or three hours, add a piece of 
 copperas the size of a small nut. 
 
 Iron Blue. 
 The following is Mr. G. Holland's method of 
 dyeing starling feathers for the wings of the iron 
 blue dun : — Select medium or dark feathers from 
 the starling wing, and, after separating them from 
 the wing, steep them In a tea-spoonful of solution 
 of potash to a quart of boiling water. Dye for 
 
ON DYEING. 27 
 
 first stage in Judson's '^ slate" dissolved in boiling 
 water, until a rather deep shade is got. In a quart 
 of boiling water, dissolve sufficient extract of 
 indigo to colour it a pale sky blue, and, for the 
 second stage, steep the feathers until they are of 
 the required shade. 
 
 It occurred to me that there should be no great 
 practical difficulty in making preparations which 
 would dye any colour required by the fly-dresser in 
 a single operation, and, with a view of elucidating 
 this point, I put myself in communication with 
 Messrs. E. Crawshaw and Co., makers of aniline 
 and other dyes, of 80, Fann Street, Aldersgate 
 Street, E.C. This firm, after some consideration, 
 offered to make a set of dyes, specially designed to 
 produce all the colours required for the pattern flies 
 illustrated in this work. On receipt of the speci- 
 men packets, each was practically tested, and, after 
 alterations, and even the making of new dyes in 
 some cases, I am gratified to find that there is now 
 to be obtained a reliable set of dyes, sold at a very 
 moderate price, with which an amateur can dye 
 quills, hackles, &c., to any of the shades given in 
 the coloured illustrations. 
 
 The following are the simple directions for the 
 use of these dyes : — 
 
 Thoroughly wash all feathers, &c., before dyeing, 
 in a weak solution of ordinary washing soda in 
 boiling water, so as to remove the grease ; then 
 rinse well in cold water. Dissolve the dye in 
 
28 ON DYEING. 
 
 boiling water, using for a pint of water, about the 
 quantity of dye that can be taken up on the point 
 of the small blade of an ordinary penknife. Stir 
 thoroughly until dissolved, then put in the material 
 to be dyed, and keep stirring until the required 
 shade is obtained. The following colours — green 
 olive, medium olive, brown olive, green drake, 
 grannom green, slate, iron blue, and red spinner 
 — will require a little vinegar, or other acid to 
 be added to the dye bath, in order to thoroughly 
 bring out and ^y. the colour. 
 
 When fully dyed, wash the feathers well in cold 
 water, and dip them for a few minutes in a weak 
 solution of alum, say about \ oz. to a quart of boil- 
 ing water, wash thoroughly in cold water, and dry 
 as previously described. The alum in this case 
 is used as a mordant, its effect being to discharge 
 any superfluous colour, and fix the remaining dye 
 so as to render it quite fast. 
 
 In case any shade should be required which is 
 not exactly hit off by any one of these colours, two 
 or more of the dyes can be mixed together in any 
 proportion, or the addition of some of the other 
 colours made by Messrs. Crawshaw, and sold in 
 similar packets, may be necessary. 
 
 These special dyes are illustrated on the plate 
 facing page 30, and in the particulars for dyeing 
 any portion of the artificial flies given in a suc- 
 ceeding chapter, are referred to by the numbers 
 appended in each case. The coloured block im- 
 
ON DYEING. 
 
 29 
 
 mediately under the name of each dye, shows some 
 of the various shades which can be produced on a 
 white ground by the use of that particular dye. Of 
 course, when dyeing on a feather which is naturally 
 coloured, the exact shade will be somewhat altered 
 and tinged with the natural colour of the feather. 
 
oq 
 
 ^ - 
 
 «5 
 
 ^ 
 
 I ^^ - 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 TO DRESS FLOATING FLIES ON EYED-HOOKS. 
 
 <ca<g<s:xaO''^^>::a 
 
 O a casual observer it does not seem a 
 very difficult task to describe in detail 
 the successive operations of dressing 
 flies, but the fact remains that of the many writers 
 on Angling who have touched on the subject of 
 fly-tying, no one has, as yet, succeeded in giving 
 a description sufficiently lucid to enable the tyro 
 by his own unaided exertions to acquire this art. 
 The methods herein described and figured are 
 such only as have been thoroughly tried by the 
 author, and in many instances exhaustively threshed 
 out by comparing notes copiously with other 
 amateurs. Wherever it has been found by ex- 
 perience that any part of the process has produced 
 doubtful results, or flies which in the continual 
 wear and tear of dry-fly fishing have not proved 
 durable, such faulty inodtis opera7idi has been, 
 as far as possible, amended, or, if necessary, re- 
 jected in favour of some improved manipulation. 
 If the fly-tyer is so wedded to the old style of fly, 
 
32 TO DRESS FLOATING FLIES 
 
 with gut attached, that my previous arguments 
 have failed to persuade him to adopt the eyed- 
 hook, it will be necessary for him to whip the gut 
 to the under-side of the hook with the waxed silk 
 before commencing operations. If flies for the 
 sunk or wet fly style of fishing be required, the 
 quantity of wings and hackle should be slightly 
 decreased, but in other respects the procedure 
 should be identical. 
 
 As the first example, take the case of an ordinary 
 upright winged dun : — 
 
 The operating table should be placed in the full 
 light of a window, and the vice securely clamped 
 to the right-hand corner of it ; the height of the 
 vice-head should be regulated to suit the dresser, 
 with the fly-nut for tightening the jaws of the vice 
 on the farther side from him. 
 
 Fix the bend of the hook firmly in the vice 
 with the shank projecting to the right. The 
 temper of the hook should then be tested by 
 pulling the eye-end of the hook-shank sharply 
 upwards with the thumb and forefinger of the 
 right hand. If the hook is soft It will by this 
 action be bent out of shape, and if on the other 
 hand it is too highly tempered, it will snap off 
 short at the bend. In either of these cases the 
 hook should be discarded. If the tempering of 
 the hook has been successfully accomplished, it 
 will spring back to its original shape. Occa- 
 sionally the point of a hook when made is turned 
 
ON EYED-HOOKS. zi 
 
 slightly inwards, and hence fails to fasten the fish 
 securely ; it can frequently, however, be set at the 
 correct angle in the act of testing. 
 
 Take a piece of wax about the size of a small 
 pea, which soften thoroughly by working it be- 
 tween the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. 
 Picking up this piece of wax with the left fore- 
 finger, slightly moistened, place the tying-silk on 
 the wax, and, closing the left thumb and forefinger 
 with a slight pressure, draw the silk quickly 
 through the wax. After ^repeating this action 
 three or four times the surface of the silk will be 
 thoroughly coated with wax. The beginner must 
 expect to break his silk continually when waxing, 
 and nothing but practice will enable him to succeed 
 in acquiring the knack of regulating the pressure 
 of the left thumb and forefinger; it is well, however, 
 to note that, the shorter the length of silk drawn 
 through the wax, the less is the liability of breaking. 
 The silk requires waxing occasionally during the 
 operations of dressing the fly. At all times, when 
 tying, hold the silk firmly between the right thumb 
 and forefinger, and carefully avoid letting them 
 slip down the silk, as this tends to remove the 
 coating of wax. If the tying-silk should break at 
 any time while dressing, wax thoroughly the 
 broken end on the fly as well as a new length of 
 silk ; scarf the new silk to the broken end by 
 twisting them up together, and go on lapping 
 with the scarf for three or four turns, after which 
 
 D 
 
34 TO DRESS FLOATING FLIES 
 
 the end of the broken silk may be cut off. In 
 case the broken end is too short to scarf, lay 
 the new silk over the two last turns of the old, 
 and continue lapping, cutting off any projecting 
 ends. 
 
 When commencing to lap, hold the end of the 
 waxed silk tightly between the left thumb and 
 forefinger against the shank of the hook, and with 
 the right thumb and forefinger take the silk firmly 
 about four inches from the end ; retain the extreme 
 end between the left thumb and forefinger until 
 three laps are laid on the hook-shank. Pro- 
 ceeding as above, work in the middle part of the 
 hook-shank four or five turns of tying-silk close 
 behind each other ; at every turn of the silk ^ 
 draw it down as tightly as possible without break- 
 ing, as without a firm foundation the wings will 
 infallibly slip or turn out of position. 
 
 From each of a pair of starling wings — one 
 right and one left from the same bird, if possible, 
 as the length of fibre and colour vary according to 
 the age of the bird — detach a feather. If for a very 
 small fly on a ooo hook, select the second primary 
 quill feather ; for any larger hook, the third or 
 fourth. Cut with scissors from each sufficient of 
 the plume, from the side of the feather on which 
 
 ^ N.B. All the diagrams of fly-making are magnified, and in 
 these magnified diagrams the relative thickness of the tying- 
 silk is purposely exaggerated in order to give a clearer idea of 
 the method, and the exact number of turns used. 
 
ON E YED-HOOKS. 35 
 
 It IS the longest, to form a wing (for a dun on a 
 o hook a little more than an eighth of an inch, 
 and for other sizes in proportion), and lay these 
 two wings on the table, taking care not to separate 
 the fibres, or, what is technically called, " break the 
 wings!' Place them with the natural inclination 
 of the fibres towards the tail-end of the fly, and 
 the cut side of the plume nearest to you. With 
 the forefinger of the right hand, slightly moistened, 
 pick up the wing for the side of the fly furthest 
 from you, with the darker side {i.e. the one on the 
 outer side of the bird's wing) downwards ; lay this 
 wing along the forefinger of the left hand. Simi- 
 larly, pick up the other wing with the outer side 
 upwards, and lay it on the wing already placed on 
 the left forefinger, taking care to keep the points 
 evenly one on the other. Place the left thumb 
 on the points of the wings, and take them by 
 the stump-ends firmly between the right thumb 
 and forefinger, at the same time gently coaxing 
 any disarranged fibres evenly into position with 
 the left hand. Apply the pair of wings to the 
 upper side of the hook, over and close down to 
 the turns of tying-sllk previously made in the 
 middle of the hook-shank, judging the position 
 so that the wings when attached will just reach 
 from the neck of the eye to the bend of the 
 hook. 
 
 Practice alone will enable the operator to do this 
 accurately, and it is well to note that the invariable 
 
36 
 
 TO DRESS FLOATING FLIES 
 
 tendency of the beginner in this style of putting 
 on wings is to make them too long. The ap- 
 pearance of a pair of wings in which the points 
 have not been nipped off is preferable, as all 
 feathers naturally become thinner at the points, 
 and thus give the notion of being shaded off, 
 whereas, if nipped off, they have a hard, unnatural 
 outline. Holding the wings and the wire of the 
 hook between the left thumb and forefinger, take 
 the tying-silk in the right hand, and, separating 
 the left thumb and forefinger sufficiently to allow 
 the silk to pass between them, draw the silk down 
 as firmly as possible, at the same time gripping 
 the wings and hook with the left thumb apd fore- 
 finger so as to draw all fibres down vertically 
 without any horizontal motion. Repeat this ope- 
 ration three or four times, carrying each successive 
 turn of the silk forwards, or towards the head of 
 the fly. Pass the silk once behind the wings and 
 over the hook, and pull it tightly forwards : the fly 
 now appears as shown on sketch (fig. 12). 
 
 Fig. 12. 
 
GN EYED-HOOKS. 37 
 
 Cut away with the scissors as closely as possible 
 the stump-ends of the wings, and, with the nails 
 of the left thumb and forefinger force them with 
 the silk foundation on which they are fastened 
 along the wire close up to the eye. The object 
 of tying the wings on in the first instance in the 
 middle of the shank is to enable the operator to 
 cut the refuse ends of the wings off neatly, which 
 is impossible when they are fixed close up, owing 
 to the projection of the eye being in the way of 
 the scissors. In the case of a fly dressed on 
 an ordinary hook with gut attached this is, of 
 course, unnecessary, and the wings are at once 
 worked on in their proper place. When cutting 
 off any refuse ends of material quite closely, 
 it is a good plan to steady the right hand by 
 resting the little finger against the pillar of the 
 vice. 
 
 Strip the downy flue off the root- end of the 
 cock hackle selected (the longest fibre of the 
 hackle of a properly proportioned fly is a trifle 
 shorter than the shank of the hook), lay it along 
 the wire of the hook with the point of the hackle 
 towards the right, and bind it firmly with the 
 tying-silk until about half-way down to the bend 
 of the hook, cutting ofT diagonally, with the view 
 of tapering the body, any of the quill or root-end 
 of the hackle projecting beyond this point. If a 
 gold or silver tag is required, it is now formed by 
 tying in a short length of flat tinsel and working 
 
38 TO DRESS FLOATING FLIES 
 
 three or four turns of it fastened off with two turns 
 of the tying-sllk and the refuse ends of the tinsel 
 closely broken off. If the fly to be Imitated has 
 setae or whisks, lay on top of the hook four or 
 five strands of a cock's-beard hackle with the set 
 of the fibres inclining upwards (the beard hackles 
 are three or four coarse- fibred hackles on each 
 side of the throat just below the wattles of the 
 cock) ; bind them securely In place with successive 
 laps of the tying-silk until the tail-end of the 
 body is reached ; take one turn of the silk be- 
 hind and under the whisk and over the hook, 
 pulling the silk forwards so as to set the tail 
 well up. 
 
 Lay along the top of the hook projecting to the 
 left the strand of quill, previously stripped of the 
 flue, of which the body is to be formed ; or, if the 
 body be of silk ribbed with tinsel, tie both In 
 similarly in one operation (fig. 13). 
 
 Fig. 13- 
 
ON EYED-HOOKS. 
 
 39 
 
 If the body be of quill, thoroughly wax the 
 silk in order to secure the adhesion of the quill 
 to the hook-shank, but If of silk, avoid waxing, 
 as it darkens the body ; lap the quill or silk 
 with the tying-silk, carrying it in regular laps 
 close up behind the wings : form the body by 
 winding the quill or silk smoothly up to the 
 shoulder, where, fasten it with two turns of the 
 tying-silk, cutting off any refuse of the body 
 material. If the body be ribbed, carry the gold 
 or silver wire in regularly-spaced open folds up 
 to the shoulder, where, secure as before, and break 
 off refuse end (fig. 14). 
 
 Fig. 14. 
 
 Fix the point of the hackle in the pliers, and 
 taking care to keep it on its edge with the glossy 
 or outer side towards the head of the fly, make 
 
40 
 
 TO DRESS FLOATING FLIES 
 
 the first turn of the hackle round the body, close 
 up to and behind the wings (fig. 15). 
 
 Fig. 15- 
 
 Retaining the hackle in the same relative po- 
 sition, and counteracting its natural tendency to 
 twist by keeping the forefinger of the right hand 
 in the ring at the lower end of the pliers through- 
 out the operation of winding the hackle over the 
 body (technically called " turning the hackle "), 
 work each successive turn in front of the one 
 just previously made, until by this action the 
 
ON EYED-HOOKS, 
 
 41 
 
 wings are gradually forced into a perfectly upright 
 position (fig. 16). In turning the hackle carry 
 
 Fig. 16. 
 
 the pliers well forward when under the hook in 
 each turn, so as to fill up the space under the wings. 
 Neglect of this precaution gives a very crude ap- 
 pearance to the fly. A fly to float well should have 
 at least four or five turns of hackle round the hook. 
 Fasten in the point of the hackle with two turns 
 of silk, cut off the projecting point of the hackle, 
 and, carefully coaxing it between the fibres, gra- 
 dually carry the tying-silk up towards the head so 
 as to take a fold over, and thus secure each suc- 
 cessive turn of the hackle. This is a most im- 
 
42 
 
 TO DRESS FLOATING FLIES 
 
 portant improvement, increasmg to a surprismg 
 extent the durability of a fly ; and if by any chance 
 in fishing the extreme point of the hackle draws 
 out, it can be cut off, and the remainder of the 
 hackle will not move, so that the fly can still be 
 used. Pass the silk in front of the wings, and 
 take one turn round the neck of the eye. Press 
 
 the fibres of the hackle 
 into position pointing 
 towards the tail of the 
 fly, and generally ar- 
 range them with the 
 dubbing - needle (^^^. 
 17). If the wings are 
 a trifle too long, nip 
 off the extreme point 
 with the nails (but on 
 no account cut them 
 with the scissors), although, as before stated, this 
 should not be necessary, as the length should be 
 correctly judged when winging. 
 
 It is now only necessary to fasten off the fly, 
 and it may be noted that throughout the previous 
 operations not a single knot or hitch has been 
 made. If the silk is kept thoroughly waxed, and 
 the folds drawn down quite tightly, the fly at any 
 stage will remain secure : the continual half-hitches 
 recommended by the old school of tyers are useless, 
 and only give an uneven and lumpy appearance 
 to the work. 
 
ON EYED-HOOKS. 
 
 43 
 
 I cannot too strongly impress on professionals 
 as well as amateurs the necessity of abandoning 
 the old system of finishing off a fly with a series of 
 half-hitches. True it saves a little trouble, which, 
 to the professional, may be of some Importance, 
 but I venture to suggest to them that it is worth a 
 trifling expenditure of time to make the work 
 really secure, a result which can by no possibility 
 be attained by the use of half-hitches. 
 
 The '' Whip Finis/i' shown 
 in the magnified sketches of 
 the eye-end of the hook Is 
 the only really secure and 
 reliable knot to fasten off 
 with. It Is made thus : — 
 
 Lay the end of the tylng- 
 silk back towards the tail so 
 as to form an open-loop, and 
 work one turn of this loop 
 round the neck of the eye 
 (fig. 1 8). 
 
 Similarly work three 
 more turns of the loop, 
 passing It at each turn 
 over the eye (fig. 19). 
 
 Holding the hook and 
 turns of silk firmly be- 
 tween the left thumb and 
 forefinger, draw the end 
 of the tying-silk down with 
 
 Fig. 18. 
 
 Fig. 19. 
 
44 
 
 TO DRESS FLOATING FLIES 
 
 ^^^m^ the right hand until the knot Is quite 
 J^ tight (fig. 20). It is essential in this 
 
 i^i^ operation to proceed slowly, so as to 
 
 ig- 20. allow the warmth of the finger and 
 thumb to soften the wax, and thus allow the silk 
 to draw freely. Cut off the remnant of the silk, 
 varnish the knot thoroughly, and if in this ope- 
 ration the eye is filled with varnish, do not neglect 
 to clear it. The fly is now complete. 
 
 The use of the fine end of a porcupine quill 
 is recommended both for varnishing and clearing 
 the eye. 
 
 For 2i flat-wmged fly hackled at shoulder only, 
 as in the case of an Alder, Governor, Grannom, 
 &c. — wing ; fasten in root-end of hackle ; whisk, 
 if any, and body material ; then form and secure 
 body as before (fig. 21). 
 
 .^.?i^ 
 
 Fig. 21.' 
 
 Make the first turn of the hackle in front of the 
 
ON EYED-HOOKS. 
 
 45 
 
 wings, and then pass the hackle behind the wings 
 (fig. 22). 
 
 Turn the hackle as before, but do not jam the 
 folds of the hackle in 
 front of each other, as the 
 effect of this operation 
 would be to set the wings 
 too upright (fig. 23). 
 In all cases bear in mind 
 that the more turns of 
 the hackle are worked ^. ^ 
 
 in front of the wings the 
 flatter they lie, and the more turns behind them 
 
46 
 
 TO DRESS FLOATING FLIES 
 
 the more they are forced into an upright position. 
 A judicious use of this principle will ever enable 
 the fly-dresser to correct any little mistake in 
 the angle at which the wings are set on. Fasten 
 in the point of the hackle, carry tying-silk between 
 the turns of the hackle to the head, where, finish 
 as before, and varnish. 
 
 For 2i flat-whiged fly hackled right doivn the body, 
 as in the case of nearly all the sedges, follow pre- 
 cisely the same plan of winging and fastening in 
 hackle, selecting, however, a longer and more 
 tapered hackle, and, with the body material, bind 
 in a length of fine gold or silver wire (fig. 24). 
 
 Form and secure the body, and, in turning the 
 hackle, let the first turn be in front of the wings 
 and the next two or three close behind them, and 
 then carry the hackle down to the tail-end of the fly 
 
ON EYED-HOOKS. 
 
 47 
 
 in parallel, sloping, 
 regularly - spaced 
 open turns (fig. 25). 
 
 Leaving the 
 pliers hanging on 
 the hackle, first take 
 two or three close 
 turns of the wire 
 tightly round the 
 hackle-point, so as 
 to secure it, and, 
 keeping a steady 
 strain on the wire, 
 work it up between 
 the fibres so as to 
 rib the body the re- 
 verse way over the hackle up to the head, where, 
 fasten in the wire with 
 two or three turns of 
 the tying-silk : break off 
 the remnant of the wire, 
 finish, and varnish as 
 before {^^. 26). 
 
 In the case of an or- 
 dinary hackle or buzz-fly 
 with silk or qicill body, 
 
 Fig. 26. 
 
 take three or four turns of silk at the head ; fasten 
 in the root of the hackle ; carry tying-silk to tail 
 end of fly, fastening in whisk (if any) ; set up 
 whisk, and lay body material along the top of 
 
48 TO DRESS FLOATING FLIES 
 
 the hook (fig. 27). Fasten In body material, form, 
 
 Fig. 27. 
 
 and secure body (fig. 28). Turn and fasten in 
 
 Fig. 28. 
 
 point of hackle, carry tying-silk through turns of 
 hackle to head, where finish 
 and varnish {^^. 29). 
 
 If a buzz-fiy zvith dubbing 
 body, immediately after setting 
 up whisk well wax the tying- 
 silk. Take sufficient of the 
 dubbing (either fur or crewel) 
 
 Fig. 29. 
 
 to form the body, and blend it by breaking it up 
 thoroughly between the fingers. Arrange it into 
 a rough taper about three times the length of the 
 
ON E YED-HOOKS. 
 
 49 
 
 hook, and twist or spin it on to the tying-silk 
 (fig-. 30). Wind the silk with the dubbing on it 
 
 Fig. 30. 
 up to the shoulder (fig. 31), and, if there is too 
 
 Fig. 31- 
 
 much dubbing on the silk, draw away the surplus 
 from the silk with the nails of the right thumb 
 and fiarefinger, and wax the silk well. Turn the 
 hackle, fasten it in, carry the silk to the head, 
 finish, and varnish. Pick out a little of the fur 
 with the dubbing-needle at shoulder, and generally 
 
 E 
 
50 
 
 TO DRESS FLOATING FLIES 
 
 trim and arrange the body 
 with the scissors (fig. 32). 
 
 The ■ following is Mr. 
 Marryat s method of dressing 
 Bumbles, so that they will 
 stand dry-fly fishing ; but it is 
 of t:he utmost importance in 
 this case to use tying-silk, which, when waxed, is 
 the same colour as the floss silk body of the fly : — 
 Fasten in the hackle as for an ordinary buzz or 
 hackle fly. Take a length of floss silk for the 
 body, a strand of peacock herl, either bronze or 
 green, according to the pattern-fly, and a piece of 
 fine flat gold tinsel ; lay all these on top of the 
 hook at the shoulder, tapering them by cutting off 
 diagonally, and bind them firmly with the tying- 
 silk, carrying it down to the tail-end (^^. 33). 
 
 Fig. ZZ- 
 
ON E YED-HOOKS. 
 
 5^ 
 
 Wind the floss-silk evenly down, and secure 
 with one turn of the tying-silk, cutting off closely 
 any remnant of the floss ; rib down with open turns 
 of the herl ; similarly fasten it in, and cut off any 
 remnant ; carry the flat gold down between the ribs 
 of herl ; secure, and break off refuse end (fig. 34). 
 
 Scte^, ■ ^ 
 
 Fig. 34. 
 
 In turning the hackle, 
 take three or four close 
 turns at the head, and 
 the remainder in open 
 coils each against and 
 immediately above the 
 ribs of the herl. With 
 the right thumb and fore- 
 finger, draw the fibres 
 of the hackle forwards, 
 so as to set them at right 
 angles to the hook-shank 
 
 (% 35). 
 
 Secure the point of the 
 
 Fig. 35- 
 
52 TO DRESS FLOATING FLIES 
 
 hackle with two turns of tying-silk, which carry 
 up between the fibres of the hackle to the head, 
 where finish and varnish. Cut off the projecting 
 point of the hackle, and press the fibres of the 
 hackle back Into position, pointing towards the 
 
 tail-end of the fly (fig. 
 36). By this manipu- 
 lation the hackle may 
 be brought the whole 
 or part of the way down 
 the body, according to 
 Fig. 36. fancy. 
 
 To Dress Upright Reverse- Winged Duns. 
 
 Work four or five turns of well-waxed silk close 
 to the eye of the hook. 
 
 Take two feathers from a right, and two from 
 a left wing of a starling, or other bird ; cut out 
 the entire plume from each, excepting the ex- 
 treme points and downy part of the roots of the 
 feathers ; lay these as cut on the table, taking 
 care not to disarrange the fibres. Place the two 
 pieces from the right feathers one on the other, 
 with the points quite even along their entire length, 
 and similarly those from the left feathers, in each 
 case pressing the plumes together, so that they 
 will adhere to one another. Lay the two lengths 
 now adhering together from the one wing on the 
 two lengths from the other, with their points quite 
 even along the entire plumes, with the natural 
 
ON EYED-HOOKS. 53 
 
 inclination of their fibres sloping towards the tail- 
 end of the fly, and with the darker sides outwards. 
 Take a pair of long bull-dog pliers of the form 
 shown in sketch ^ (fig. 2^1)^ and, pressing them open 
 
 . \\'»!! 's.SE^w Yv \UVW\\M VVWWm 
 
 F'g- 37. 
 
 by means of the thumb and forefinger of the right 
 hand applied on the portion roughed for this 
 purpose, place the four plumes together between 
 the jaws of these pliers with sufficient width pro- 
 jecting beyond the points to form, when detached, 
 a set of wings. Remove the pressure of the right 
 thumb and forefinger, and the feathers are securely 
 fixed in the position shown on the diagram. The 
 projecting pieces being four wings accurately in 
 position, can now be detached, and when a set of 
 wings is required for the next fly, it is only ne- 
 cessary to press the pliers open and draw the 
 whole of the feathers out sufficiently for the next 
 set of wings. Releasing the pliers, the remainder 
 of the four feathers is kept firmly in place. In 
 this way sufficient feathers can be arranged at one 
 time to make six or eight sets of wings. 
 
 ^ This form of pliers is the invention of Mr. Marryat, and 
 can be procured from Messrs. Weiss, surgical instrument makers, 
 Strand. 
 
54 
 
 TO DRESS FLOATING FLIES 
 
 For single wings it is, of course, only neces- 
 sary to use the plumes of one right and one left 
 feather. 
 
 Having detached the set of wings, place them 
 with the left thumb and forefinger with their points 
 projecting to the right or over the head of the fly ; 
 and note that the tendency in this style of winging 
 is to judge them too short. Secure the wings 
 with three or four turns of silk, and carry one 
 turn in front of them and over the neck of the 
 eye (fig. 38). 
 
 Fig. 38. 
 
 If the wings have been properly put on without 
 disarranging the fibres, they will set outwards at 
 the points with two thicknesses of feather in each 
 wing ; if, however, a few fibres are out of place, 
 divide the wings carefully with the dubbing-needle. 
 Take the tying-silk in the right hand, and pass it 
 in front of the double wing on the further side 
 from you, then carry it back between the wings, 
 once round the wire of the hook behind the wings, 
 
ON EYED-HOOKS, 
 
 55 
 
 then forwards between the wings, then round the 
 neck of the eye in front of the wings, and then 
 once more behind the wings, thus forming with 
 the tying-silk the figure 8 with a wing in either 
 loop. Hold the wings firmly in the left hand, 
 
 and, with the right, pull 
 the tying-silk down quite 
 tight, and take one more 
 turn behind the wings, 
 which should then be 
 quite upright, and, look- 
 ing at them ** end on',' 
 set apart at the points 
 in the shape of the 
 letter V (fig. 39). 
 
 Cut away the stumps 
 
 Fig. 39- 
 
 of the wings diagonally to taper the body, and 
 fasten in the hackle by the root-end (fig. 40). 
 
 Fig. 40. 
 
56 
 
 TO DRESS FLOATING FLIES 
 
 Carry tying-silk to the bend of the hook, fastening 
 in and setting up the whisk, secure the quill for 
 body, bring tying-silk to shoulder (fig. 41). 
 
 Fig. 41. 
 
 Form, and bind in the body, cutting off any 
 remnant {^g 42). 
 
 Fig. 42. 
 
ON EYED-HOOKS. 
 
 57 
 
 Turn hackle, fasten it in, carry tying-silk through 
 it to head, where, finish and varnish (fig. 43). 
 
 Fig- 43- 
 
 A n Improved Method of Winging Upright Duns. 
 
 This is considered to be the latest improve- 
 ment, and the most efficacious mode of setting on 
 upright wings, whether double or single. 
 
 Strip off entirely and discard the shorter plume 
 of a pair of starling wing feathers, one right and 
 one left. Pare the central quill running down the 
 feathers as thin as possible with a pair of curved 
 scissors such as are used by oculists. Cut through 
 the quill of each feather at regular intervals, each 
 being of the width required for a wing (fig. 44). 
 
 Having worked the silk on close to the eye of 
 
 Fig. 44. 
 
58 
 
 TO DRESS FLOATING FLIES 
 
 the hook, detach one if single, and two if double 
 wings from each feather ; lay them with their 
 points evenly one on the other, with the darker 
 side outwards. Holding the wings, and, proceed- 
 ing as usual, secure them at once in their proper 
 position close to the neck of the eye, and take one 
 turn behind the wings, and over the wire of the 
 hook (fig. 45). 
 
 Fig- 45- 
 Set the stumps of the wings horizontally at right 
 angles to the length of the hook, each stump or 
 pair of stumps (according to whether the wings 
 are single or double) on their proper side, and pull 
 the tying-silk forward between them and under 
 the hook-shank (^^g. 46). 
 
 Fig. 46. 
 
ON EYED-HOOKS. 
 
 59 
 
 Press the stumps tightly back, and bind them 
 firmly behind the wings (fig. 47). 
 
 Fig. 47' 
 
 Cut the stumps away diagonally to taper the 
 body (fig. 48). 
 
 Fig. 48. 
 
 The remaining operations being then carried 
 out precisely as described for the upright re- 
 
6o 
 
 TO DRESS FLOATING FLIES 
 
 verse- winged duns, complete the fly as before 
 (%• 49). 
 
 Fig. 49. 
 
 To Dress the May- Fly or Green Drake. 
 
 Use Pearsall's gossamer silk, doubled, and, 
 having waxed it thoroughly, take five or six turns 
 close behind the eye. 
 
 Take a pair of feathers from the back or breast 
 of either a Canadian Summer or Wood duck, an 
 Egyptian goose, or a Rouen drake undyed or 
 dyed to the required tint. Strip the lower fibres 
 from the feathers, leaving only sufficient for the 
 length of wings proportionate to the size of the 
 hook, place them back to back, so that they set 
 apart at the upper ends. Apply them with the 
 left thumb and forefinger to the hook, so that each 
 quill Is on the proper side of the hook, and bjnd 
 
ON EYED-HOOKS. 
 
 the quill-ends securely, nearly close to the eye of 
 the hook {^g. 50). 
 
 Fig 50- 
 
 Turn these quill-ends back under the hook, 
 drawing them tightly back to set the wings up, 
 and fasten them behind the wings. Form the 
 head by working four or five turns of bronze pea- 
 cock herl, and secure behind the wings. Take 
 the shoulder hackle from which the downy flue 
 has been already stripped, and, holding the ex- 
 treme point between the left thumb and forefinger, 
 with the right thumb and forefinger slightly 
 moistened, stroke back the remainder of the plume. 
 (This plan is adopted with all close-plumed feathers 
 
62 
 
 TO DRESS FLOATING FLIES 
 
 when used as hackles.) Fasten in the hackle by 
 the root-end i^g. 5 1 ). 
 
 Fig. 51- 
 Fix the hackle pliers to the point of this hackle, 
 turn it close behind the wings, fasten it in, cut 
 away all refuse ends diagonally to taper the body, 
 carry tying-silk to the bend of the hook, fastening 
 in, and setting up the tail (^g. 52). 
 
 Fig. 52. 
 Bind the tying-silk up to shoulder, securing at 
 the same time the root-end of the second hackle. 
 
ON E YED-HOOKS. 
 
 63 
 
 If this second hackle is to be all put on close 
 behind the shoulder hackle, turn it now and fasten 
 in the point. If, on the other hand, it is to be used 
 for ribbing the body, leave it projecting to the 
 right or over the head of the fly, and proceed to 
 prepare the body. Undoubtedly the very best 
 materials for the body of a green drake are either 
 the thin maize, such as is used for making Mexican 
 cigarettes, or a very thin strip of wheaten straw. 
 Whichever is used, first soak it in warm water 
 until quite soft, and then cut out 
 of it a slip of the form shown in 
 the sketch (fig. 53). With the left Fig. 53. 
 
 thumb and forefinger apply it under the hook, so 
 that the join will run up the back of the fly, and, 
 pressing it tighdy so as to make it lie round the 
 wire of the hook, fasten it securely at the shoulder 
 with three very tight turns of the tying-silk, rib 
 the body down evenly with the tying-silk, and take 
 two secure turns at the tail-end of the fly (fig. 54). 
 
 Fig. 54- 
 
64 TO DRESS FLOATING FLIES 
 
 Turn the hackle with three or four folds close 
 behind the shoulder hackle, and carry it down in 
 open coils, each close to and in front of the ribs 
 formed by the silk on the straw body (fig. 55). 
 
 Fig- 55- 
 
 Attention to this placing of the turns of hackle 
 close to the ribs is necessary, as otherwise the 
 ribbing hackle is never secure. 
 
 Fasten in the point of the hackle at the tail, 
 where fasten off with whip finish and varnish. 
 
ON E YED-HOOKS, 
 
 65 
 
 Trim the wings to shape with sharp curved scissors 
 
 (fig- 56). 
 
 
 To make Detached Bodies: 
 
 Take an ordinary bristle such as is used by 
 bootmakers, either natural or dyed, according to 
 the colour of the body of the fly to be imitated. 
 If too thick, split in two from 
 the point. Double it tightly 
 in form shown (fig. 57). -^^^- 57- 
 
 Holding the bristle firmly between the nails of 
 the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, take 
 two very tight turns of thoroughly waxed silk 
 close down to the doubled end of the bristle. Lay 
 in position the fibres to form the tail. 
 
 For an mdia-i^ubber body, take a thin narrow 
 slip of this material, either cut from the ordinary 
 bottle-rubber with a sharp knife previously well 
 wetted, or drawn from webbing such as is used 
 
66 
 
 TO DRESS FLOATING FLIES 
 
 Fig. 58. 
 
 for braces, selecting in either case a pale-coloured 
 and transparent piece ; lay this along the upper 
 
 side of the bristle 
 with the end of 
 the rubber, of 
 which the cover- 
 ing of the de- 
 tached body is 
 to be formed, 
 projecting to the 
 right (fig. 58). 
 Fasten in the whisk and rubber with two turns 
 
 of tying-silk, 
 which carry in 
 open coils to 
 the end of the 
 body, judging 
 the length ac- 
 curately (fig. 
 59), and parti- 
 cularly noting 
 that the usual 
 fault of both professionals and amateurs is to make 
 the body too long (as an example for a 00 hook, 
 a quarter of an inch is quite sufficient). 
 
 Fix the end of the rubber in the hackle pliers, 
 and, stretching it to its utmost extent, be most 
 particular to make the first turn close down to and 
 over the doubled end of the bristle, and then lay it 
 evenly in successive folds up the body ; secure with 
 
ON EYED-HOOKS. 
 
 67 
 
 two turns of silk, fasten off with whip finish, and 
 cut off refuse end of the rubber, and any projecting 
 pieces of the whisk fibres. Roll the detached 
 body backwards and forwards on your table with 
 the handle of the dubbing-needle to make it per- 
 fectly round (fig. 60). 
 
 Fig. 60. 
 Bend the detached body to make the tail-end set 
 up, and it is ready to be attached to the fly. 
 
 If the covering of the detached body be of 
 horsehair, double the bristle as before, and affix to 
 it well waxed tying-silk as near the colour of the 
 horsehair as possible. Place the whisk and horse- 
 hair previously well soaked in warm water in 
 position as before, and fasten them in with the 
 tying-silk. Commencing close to the doubled end 
 of the bristle, lay on four or five turns of horse- 
 hair, and, holding it securely in the left hand so 
 that the folds 
 shall not open, 
 take a single 
 turn of the ty- 
 ing-silk round 
 the horsehair 
 and bristle 
 
 (fig- 6')- Fig.6r 
 
68 TO DRESS FLOATING FLIES 
 
 Take four or five more turns of horsehair, and 
 then one of the silk, and so on, in succession, until 
 sufficient length of bristle is covered to form the 
 body, when secure the horsehair with the tying- 
 silk, and finish with whip finish (fig. 62). Cut 
 
 away any projecting ends of horsehair or whisk, roll 
 body on table to make it quite round, and bend body 
 to set the tail up. The single turns of tylng-silk 
 give the appearance of the joints of the body, which 
 are prominent features in all the natural flies. 
 
 For the Jemiy Spinner body, select the most 
 transparent bristle and the finest and clearest 
 white horsehair. Use crimson silk, which secure 
 as before at the doubled end. Lay a cream- 
 coloured whisk along the top of the body with 
 points projecting to the right, and the horsehair, 
 softened by soaking in warm water, projecting 
 towards the left. Secure both these with the silk, 
 and make a whip finish. Cut away the tying-silk 
 
 Fig. 63. 
 
ON EYED-HOOKS. 69 
 
 Roll the horsehair on, taking care not to cover 
 the red silk at the tail-end ; fasten it off with two 
 or three turns of silk, and finish with the whip 
 finish (fig. 64). 
 
 Fig. 64. 
 
 For a Green Drake Body select the stoutest 
 bristle and horsehair. On the doubled end of the 
 bristle fix the tying-sllk, which should be pale 
 yellow, well waxed. Apply the whisk, four or 
 five fibres of brown mallard wing for tail, the 
 soaked horsehair and a piece of doubled maize or 
 wheaten straw round the bristle, and fasten them 
 securely with four or five turns of silk {^^. 65). 
 
 Fig. 65. 
 Work four or five turns of horsehair close to 
 
70 
 
 TO DRESS FLOATING FLIES 
 
 the tail-end, and then one turn of tying-silk 
 (fig. 66) ; then four or five more turns of horse- 
 
 Fig. 66. 
 hair, and one of the silk, and so on, until the body 
 is completed. Fasten off with the whip finish 
 (fig. 67). 
 
 Fig. 67. 
 
 The body of the Spent Gjiat or Black Drake 
 is thinner, paler, and more transparent than the 
 above, and hence the maize or straw Is usually 
 omitted, and the dark ribs near the tail-end of the 
 body, which are very distinct in the natural fly, 
 are usually imitated by fastening in with the 
 horsehair a piece of peacock herl, and working 
 three or four turns of it round the bristle before 
 commencing to roll on the horsehair. 
 
ON EYED-HOOKS. 
 
 7? 
 
 In all cases note that the whip finish at the end 
 of detached bodies should not be varnished, as, if 
 so, it Is almost Impossible to attach them securely 
 to the hook, as the tying-sllk does not ''bite" on 
 the hard varnished surface. 
 
 To complete the flies with detached bodies for 
 a winged dun, set on the wings In either of the 
 three methods previously Indicated ; fasten In the 
 root-end of the hackle. Apply the body with the 
 two projecting ends of bristle " a cheval " on the 
 hook, and close up behind the wings (fig. 68). 
 
 Fig. 68. 
 
 It Is a good plan to flatten the ends of the 
 bristle slightly between the teeth before applying. 
 
 Holding the body securely in position with the 
 left hand, bind down over the ends of the bristle 
 and round the wire of the hook five or six tight 
 turns of the tying-sllk, then make one turn of silk 
 
72 
 
 TO DRESS FLOATING FLIES 
 
 under and behind the body and round the wire of 
 hook, so as to set the tall-end of the detached 
 body well up. Cut away the refuse ends of the 
 bristle not too closely (fig. 69). 
 
 Fig. 69. 
 
 Fig. 70. 
 
 Take three or four 
 turns of the silk 
 round the body and 
 hook, carrying it to- 
 wards the shoulder ; 
 turn the hackle, fasten 
 In its point, bring silk 
 between the fibres of 
 the hackle to head, 
 where finish with whip 
 finish, and varnish as 
 usual (fig. 70). 
 
ON EYED-HOOKS. 
 
 73 
 
 For a buzz-fly with detached body, fasten in 
 hackle, tie on body, turn hackle, secure point of 
 hackle, finish at head, and varnish as before. 
 
 To make the Detached- Bodied May- Fly, wing, 
 head, fasten in, and turn shoulder hackle, as in 
 dressing an ordinary May-fly. Trim wings with 
 scissors, either before winging or at this stage ; 
 fasten in root-end of cock's hackle, and apply 
 detached body in the same manner as described 
 for the detached dun (fig. 71). 
 
 Fig. 71. 
 
 Securely fasten on the detached body, taking 
 plenty of turns of silk to make quite sure of its 
 
74 FLOATING FLIES ON EYED-HOOKS. 
 
 being fast, and cut away the ends of bristle not 
 too closely (fig. 72). 
 
 Turn hackle, 
 fasten it in, carry 
 silk to head, where 
 finish with whip 
 finish (fig. ^^\ 
 
 In this case it 
 is not practicable 
 to varnish the knot, 
 owing to the pea- 
 cock-herl head. 
 
 Fig- 73- 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 
 
 H ETHER, as stated by Ronalds and 
 other early professors, the different 
 shades of blue, olive, and yellow dun, 
 iron blue, pale evening, and July dun, March and 
 Turkey brown, green drake and dark mackerel, 
 are each distinct and separate varieties, or whether, 
 as asserted by Foster, the blue, olive, and yellow 
 dun, and the other flies enumerated above, are, in 
 fact, the same insects, but slightly altered in tint 
 according to the season, temperature, and other 
 natural causes, is a very difficult point to determine. 
 I am, however, inclined to share the opinion held 
 by Foster, having frequently found in the case of 
 the olive dun, the ^y par excellence in the south of 
 England, that even on consecutive days in the 
 spring, with an increase of temperature the colour 
 has become many shades lighter, and more watery 
 in appearance, and on a corresponding decrease of 
 temperature taking place, the fly has hatched of a 
 darker colour and more opaque in texture. 
 
76 ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 
 
 This work not being in any way Intended as a 
 treatise on entomology, and the classification of the 
 natural flies according to Order, Family, Genus, 
 and Species having been so thoroughly and accu- 
 rately explained by Ronalds, it Is not proposed to 
 touch on this branch of the subject. The flies 
 bred In the water may, with very few exceptions, 
 be considered as belonging to one of two great 
 families, the Ephemerae and Phryganldse. 
 
 The Ephemerae, to which family all the duns, May 
 flies, and In fact all upright winged flies, according 
 to the authority of modern entomologists, belong, 
 are hatched in the opaque-winged or '' pseud- 
 imago " state, and, excepting In the case of the 
 May flies, are, In this state, usually styled '' duns." 
 After a short time, varying in different species, and 
 increased or diminished according to temperature, 
 moisture, &c., from a few hours to two or even 
 three days, they shed the whole of their external 
 covering of wings, body, legs, and even tall, and 
 emerge In the transparent-winged spinner or 
 *' Imago " dress. The colour of the body has 
 usually changed very considerably, the setce or 
 tail increased in length to an extraordinary extent, 
 the wings are transparent, and the fly Is altogether 
 more delicate in -outline and more brilliant In hue. 
 
 Thus the various shades of the olive dun in its 
 perfect state become red spinners, with bodies of 
 all tints of red brown, from a pale burnt sienna to 
 a dark crimson ; and the iron blue, unswathed of its 
 
ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 77 
 
 comparatively sombre dress, appears as the fairy- 
 like Jenny spinner, with a body glassy and colour- 
 less in the middle, and a red-brown or orange patch 
 at the tail and shoulder. These spinners when 
 dancing up and down, occasionally just touching 
 the surface of the water, are in the act of laying 
 their eggs, which at once sink and adhere to the 
 gravel in the bed of the river, and the spinner, 
 having fulfilled its duty, falls lifeless on the stream. 
 In due time these eggs are hatched in the shape of 
 a very active grub without any sign of wings, which 
 preys on all kinds of minute aquatic insects. The 
 grub in its turn becomes a pupa or larva, in shape 
 resembling the fully-developed fly without wings, 
 but with the addition of two dark-coloured glossy 
 excrescences at Its shoulders, which are, in fact, the 
 wings folded up in a pair of protecting coverings. 
 When fully developed, the larva rises to the sur- 
 face of the water, splits open the gauzy skin in 
 which It is enveloped, and, after balancing itself for 
 a moment on the empty case, emerges, floating 
 down the stream with its wings erect and Its 
 tapering body and tail curved upwards. If it does 
 not fall a prey to one of its many enemies — fish or 
 bird, trout or grayling, swallow or martin — as soon 
 as Its wings are dry, It essays a short first flight, In 
 which it Is too often seized by the open-mouthed 
 swift ; If, however, it eludes this last danger, it 
 reaches the thick sedge on the bank in safety, 
 to become, in its turn, a spinner or perfect fly, 
 
78 ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 
 
 and thus the reproduction of the species pro- 
 ceeds. 
 
 The Phryganidae, to which large family the 
 majority of the flat-winged flies, bred in the water, 
 belong, present very marked characteristics ; the 
 wings, four in number, are much longer than the 
 body and lie flat along the back. The body, when 
 compared to that of an Ephemera, Is thick, short, 
 and tapered very slightly ; there is no tail, but 
 two long feelers project from the head. Soon 
 after the eggs are hatched, the grub, commonly 
 known as a *' caddis," commences collecting a most 
 extraordinary conglomeration of all sorts and de- 
 scriptions of pieces of stone, gravel, stick, sedge, 
 &c., out of which it proceeds to construct a case of 
 such dimensions and proportions, that it is just able 
 to house itself comfortably in it. The tiny atoms 
 of which this case is built are cemented together 
 by a glutinous compound which exudes from the 
 grub itself; the thin end of the case, corresponding 
 to the tail-end of the grub, is closed, and from 
 the other end the head and a considerable portion 
 of the body of the grub may be seen protruding as 
 he is crawling along on the gravel of a shallow, 
 dragging his little house after him. The selection 
 and distribution of the materials of which the case 
 is constructed are so carefully selected that the 
 presence of a single bubble of air will cause the 
 entire structure, with its inmate, to rise and float, 
 tail upwards, on the surface of the water, while at 
 
ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 79 
 
 the smallest alarm the air-bubble is expelled and 
 the grub in its case sinks to the bottom. When 
 about to hatch, the grub closes the head-end of the 
 case, and remains in a torpid state for a short 
 time, after which it crawls out of its house to the 
 bank, and emerges a fully-formed fly. This, the 
 modern recognized theory of the life-history of 
 both '' Ephemerae " and '' Phryganidae " cannot, 
 however, be considered as satisfactorily solved 
 until further scientific investigation of the subject 
 has been carried out, seeing that the experience of 
 practical fishermen goes to throw doubt on many 
 minor points. 
 
 It may be considered by many readers that the 
 number of artificial flies illustrated in this work is 
 excessive, and beyond the requirements of any 
 ordinary fly-fisher. All the varieties described are 
 certainly not absolutely necessary, but it has been, 
 as far as possible, my aim to include all the pat- 
 terns which I have, by practical experience, found 
 killing ones on the Test and other chalk streams. 
 In all cases the fullest information as to the suc- 
 cessive processes of making these flies, as well as 
 the materials to be used, and the various methods 
 of preparing and dyeing these materials, is given, 
 either in the chapter specially devoted to that sub- 
 ject, or, where necessary, in a paragraph imme- 
 diately following the description of the fly itself. 
 
 Every angler who wishes to achieve success 
 takes a continual and daily increasing interest in 
 
So ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 
 
 the study of the habits of the fish, of the portions of 
 the stream they frequent, and of the insects on 
 which they feed ; and to him the advice is ear- 
 nestly proffered, to learn to dress his own flies, if 
 only for the purpose of making the pattern from 
 the natural insect, with a view of getting them sub- 
 sequently copied by professional fly-dressers, whose 
 mistakes he will more easily be able to detect and 
 correct from having himself an intimate knowledge 
 of the manipulation of fly-tying. 
 
 I do not pretend to have invented any of the 
 various processes, either of constructing the flies, 
 or preparing or dyeing the materials used, nor is 
 there, with a few exceptions, any claim on my part 
 to novelty in the particular patterns. From the 
 best sources, professional and amateur, I have 
 striven to collect and select the most useful and 
 most killing artificial flies, and leave to the practical 
 fisherman the choice of such as accord with his 
 fancy, and free permission to discard any he does 
 not consider suitable for the particular stream he 
 is in the habit of fishing ; nothing, in my opinion, 
 so much contributing to the success of a pattern 
 or dressing as a firm conviction In the mind of 
 the fisherman that it is the very best of its sort. 
 
 The omission of so well-known a fly and one so 
 deadly in ordinary streams as the March brown, 
 cannot be passed over .without a few words 
 of comment. I have never seen this particular 
 example of the Ephemera family on the Test, 
 
ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 8i 
 
 Anton, or Itchen, in any number, nor have I ever 
 found the fish feeding on it. Time after time 
 a minute examination of the contents of their 
 stomachs has failed to bring to hght a single 
 specimen of this insect, in any chalk-stream trout 
 or grayling ; hence I plead guilty to a want of ex- 
 perience of its killing powers, and a complete 
 ignorance of the best methods of imitating it. 
 
 LIST OF ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 
 
 1. Rough Olive. 
 
 Wings. Dark starling. 
 
 Body. Heron herl, dyed in No. II., ribbed 
 
 with fine gold wire. 
 Hackle and Whisk, Dyed in No. III. 
 Hook, o or oo. 
 A very good pattern of the earliest spring olive 
 dun, and for a variety may be winged with pale 
 coot. 
 
 2. India-rubber Olive, 
 
 Wings, Medium starling. 
 
 Body. A thin slip of india-rubber ribbed 
 
 with fine gold wire. 
 Hackle and Whisk. Dyed in No. II. 
 Hook, o, oo or ooo. 
 This is one of Mr. H. S. Hall's patterns, and a 
 
 G 
 
82 ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 
 
 very good dressing of the April tint of olive dun, 
 the india-rubber body being particularly effective 
 in appearance. 
 
 3. Detached Olive. 
 
 Wings. Medium or light starling. 
 
 Body, A thin slip of india-rubber, worked 
 over an undyed doubled bristle. 
 
 Hackle arid Whisk. Dyed in No. II. 
 
 Hook, o, 00 or 000. 
 For darker tints, dye the bristle in No. II. and 
 the hackle and whisk in No. III., winging with 
 medium or dark starling. Probably the best imita- 
 tion of the natural olive extant, but very difficult 
 and troublesome to dress. 
 
 4. Dark Olive Quill. 
 
 Wings. Dark or medium starling. 
 Body, Peacock quill, dyed in No. I. 
 Hackle and Whisk. Dyed in No. III. 
 Hook, o, 00 or 000. 
 
 5. Medium Olive Quill. 
 
 Wings. Light starling. 
 Body. Peacock quill, dyed in No. VIII. 
 Hackle and Whisk. Dyed in No. II. 
 Hook, o, 00 or 000. 
 
 6. Pale Olive Quill. 
 
 Wings. Palest starling. 
 
OJSr ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 83 
 
 Body. Quill from young starling wing or 
 
 pale condor, dyed slightly in No. VIII. 
 Hackle and Whisk. Very slightly dyed in 
 
 No. II. 
 Hook. 00 or 000. 
 Nos. 4, 5, and 6 are considered by many 
 anglers a sufficient variety of the different shades 
 of olive dun throughout the year, and either of 
 them can, for a variety, be dressed with a flat 
 gold tag, or the bodies ribbed with fine gold wire. 
 On some rivers the darker shades of oHve quill 
 are winged with pale coot, or snipe, in place of 
 starling. 
 
 7. Pale Olive Dun. 
 
 Wings. Pale starling. 
 
 Body, Pale yellowish olive floss silk, ribbed 
 with fine white silk or, better still, white 
 hair, that from the Polar bear being the 
 very best. 
 
 Hackle and Whisk. Dyed in No. II. 
 
 Hook, o, 00 or 000. 
 
 8. Hare's Ear Quill. 
 
 Wings. Pale or medium starling. 
 Body. Peacock quill, dyed in No. VIII. 
 Legs. Hare fleck (from outside shoulder of 
 the hare). 
 
84 ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 
 
 Whisk. White or pale yellow cock's beard 
 
 hackle, dyed in No. II. 
 Hook, o, oo or ooo. 
 
 A very good summer pattern of pale olive. 
 
 In dressing this fly, wing as usual : spin the 
 hare fleck between the ends of a short length of 
 pale yellow tying-silk, as previously described 
 (p. 12), fasten this to the shank of the hook like 
 an ordinary hackle, then proceed to bind in whisk 
 and quill for body ; work and fasten in body, hold- 
 ing the hare-fleck hackle in the pliers ; take three 
 or four turns of it at shoulder close behind the 
 wings ; secure the end of this imitation hackle, 
 carry tying-silk between the turns of it to the head ; 
 where finish and varnish. Arrange, and if neces- 
 sary, pick out the hare-fleck with the dubbing- 
 needle to form legs. 
 
 9. Drake's Extractor. 
 Wings. Light starling. 
 Body. Pale yellow olive floss silk, ribbed 
 
 with fine gold wire. 
 Hackle, Carried down the entire length of 
 the body, from shoulder to tail ; a white 
 cock's hackle, dyed in No. I. 
 Whisk, Cock's beard hackle, dyed in No. I. 
 Hook, o, 00 or 000. 
 This fly was invented by, and named after 
 the late Mr. Drake, a celebrated Hampshire 
 amateur. 
 
1 l<M '■ 1 
 
 4 
 
 Nf 
 
 llouuli Olivr. India Rubber Olive. Detacljfid- Oliv 
 
 I)c.l'U Olive Oiiill . ^UWxuu Olive (hiill . . Pale Olive ()inll 
 
 V:i\r Olive Dm. 
 
 IFave's Fill 1- Qnill . ])i'uke's Ivxti-iictoT 
 
 10 
 
 rf 
 
 N" 1 Whileluu-eh 
 
 IZ 
 
 ^ .■0'' 
 
 Drills I'niKV. 
 
 (loose Dim 
 
ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 85 
 
 10. No. I Whitchurch. 
 
 Wings. Pale starling. 
 
 Body. Primrose floss silk. 
 
 Hackle mid fV/iisk, Pale sandy ginger. 
 
 Hook, o, 00 or 000. 
 A favourite fly with the members of the Whit- 
 church Club, and a successful example of the pale 
 olive or yellow dun. I am indebted to Messrs. 
 Eaton and Deller for this pattern. 
 
 11. Flight's Fancy. 
 
 Wings. Palest starling. 
 
 Body. Very pale yellow floss silk, ribbed 
 
 with fine flat gold. 
 Hackle and Whisk. Pale buff Cochin cock 
 
 hackle, or pale honey dun for a variety. 
 Hook, o, 00 or 000. 
 This pattern, originated by and named after Mr. 
 Flight of Winchester, kills well throughout the 
 hot weather, but is specially useful during the rise 
 of May-Fly, when a pale delicate dun of this colour 
 is generally on the water, and at times is taken even 
 in preference to the May-Fly itself. 
 
 12. Goose Dun. 
 
 Wings. Palest starling. 
 
 Body. A single strand from plume of a grey 
 
 goose pinion feather slightly dyed in No. 
 
 II., and ribbed with fine gold wire. 
 
86 ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 
 
 Hackle and Whisk. Dyed lightly in No. I. 
 Hook, oo or ooo. 
 This is Major Turk's rendering of the palest 
 of olive duns. 
 
 13. Detached Iron. Blue. 
 
 Wings. Tom-tit tail. 
 
 Body, A thin slip of india-rubber, worked 
 
 on a doubled bristle fully dyed in Craw- 
 
 shaw's *' Purple." 
 Hackle and Whisk. Dark honey dun. 
 Hook. 00. 
 
 14. Iron Blue, A. 
 
 Wings. Tom-tit tail. 
 
 Body. Peacock quill dyed in No. VI., or a 
 strip of the quill from one of the outside 
 small feathers of a Coot wing, which will 
 be found to be exactly the right shade. 
 
 Hackle and Whisk. Dark blue Andalusian. 
 
 Hook. 00. 
 
 15. Iron Blue, B. 
 
 Wings, Tom-tit tail. 
 
 Body. Pale mole fur, ribbed with yellow silk. 
 
 Hackle and Whisk. Honey dun. 
 
 Hook. 00. 
 
 16. Iron Blue, C. 
 
 Wings. Tom-tit tail. 
 
ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 87 
 
 Body, Peacock quill dyed in No. III. 
 
 Hackle and Whisk, Dyed in No. III. 
 
 Hook. 00. 
 Tom-tit feathers are most difficult to obtain, and 
 hence as a substitute a dark starling wing feather 
 dyed in No. VII. may be used for the wings of 
 any of the iron blues. 
 
 Nos. 13, 14, 15 and 16 are all excellent patterns 
 of the Spring iron blue dun, a fly which is usually 
 taken by the trout in preference to any other in 
 streams where it hatches in any quantity. No. 16 
 must not be confused with the blue-winged olive, 
 No. 36, which is essentially an evening fly during 
 the late summer and early autumn, and much larger 
 than any iron blue. 
 
 17. Adjutant Blue. 
 
 Wings, Medium starling, or pale coot. 
 Body, A strand from the pinion or tail 
 
 feather of an Adjutant. 
 Hackle and Whisk, Blue Andalusian. 
 Hook. 00 or 000. 
 The strand of Adjutant is stripped on one edge 
 only, by tearing down the longer flue with the 
 thumb and forefinger of the left hand. If not pro- 
 curable, a strip of quill from the pinion feather of 
 an oldish starling can be substituted, although not 
 so good an imitation as the Adjutant. This is the 
 October tint of iron blue. 
 
«8 ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 
 
 1 8. Blue Quill. 
 
 Wings. Light starling. 
 
 Body, Peacock quill iindyed. 
 
 Hackle and Whisk, Pale blue dun. 
 
 Hook, o, oo or ooo. 
 For a change, dress with very pale honey dun 
 hackle — an old favourite with dry-fly fishermen. 
 It Is a winged example of the celebrated Devon- 
 shire '' Blue Upright." 
 
 19. Blue Dun. 
 
 Wings. Light starling, or snipe, for a 
 
 change. 
 Body. Pale mole fur, or fur from a water- 
 rat, spun on primrose silk. 
 Hackle and Whisk. Pale blue dun. 
 Hook, o, 00 or 000. 
 This well-known pattern is given, although the 
 majority of modern Anglers prefer the variety of 
 the same fly previously given, No. 18, the dis- 
 advantage of dubbing bodies being the difficulty 
 experienced in drying them after being once 
 thoroughly sodden. 
 
 20. Autumn Dun. 
 
 Wings. Snipe. 
 
 Body. Heron herl undyed. 
 
 Hackle and Whisk. Palest blue dun. 
 
 Hook. 00 or 000. 
 
i:^ 
 
 
 Detached lv(m Blut-. Ivon Blue A. Iron Blue B 
 
 IC) 17 18 
 
 J^M mKK 
 
 hi Mr i . AJjulalil Bl.u- Hlue (inill 
 
 19 20 21 
 
 Bluf I)iiii. AxiUuiiii Dun . (u)lcltMi biui 
 
 24- 
 
 4 ^ ^ 
 
 Uaivs l.ar. („,M KiLbeU llajv;> I'.ai-. Sa I loui. . 
 
• ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 89 
 
 This Is the dressing of the pale blue dun, so fre- 
 quently seen during the autumn. 
 
 21. Golden Dun. 
 
 Wings. Pale coot. 
 
 Body. Flat gold. 
 
 Hackle and Whisk, Dark blue Andalusian. 
 
 Hook, 00 or 000. 
 Very successful with both trout and grayling 
 when feeding on '' smuts," as the various shades of 
 black gnat and midge are frequently styled. 
 
 22. Hare's Ear. 
 
 Wings. Pale starling. 
 
 Body. Pale primrose silk. 
 
 Legs. The lightest fur from a hare's face 
 
 spun on pale yellow tylng-silk,and worked 
 
 as a hackle. 
 Wkisk. Four or h\^ strands of a ginger 
 
 cock's-beard hackle. 
 Hook, o, 00 or 000. 
 Ogden's original pattern. 
 
 23. Gold- Ribbed Hare's Ear. 
 
 Wings. Medium or pale starling. 
 
 Body and Legs. The body is formed of dark 
 fur from a hare's face, ribbed with fine 
 tlat gold, and the hare's fur picked out at 
 shoulder to form leo^s. 
 
 Whisk. Red cock's beard hackle. 
 
 Hook, o or 00. 
 
90 ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 
 
 This Is probably the most killing pattern of the 
 present day in the Test and other chalk-streams ; 
 in fact, one of the most skilful and successful 
 anglers in the county of Hants scarcely ever uses 
 any other dun, from the opening of the season 
 in March until the closing of the river. It is 
 equally efficacious for trout and grayling. 
 
 24. Saltoun. 
 
 Wings, Palest starling. 
 
 Body, Black silk, ribbed with silver wire. 
 
 Hackle and Whisk, Pale ginger cock. 
 
 Hook, 00 or 000. 
 A very useful summer fly, invented by and 
 named after the late Lord Saltoun, a prominent 
 member of the old Stockbridge Club. 
 
 25. Red Quill. 
 
 Wings, Pale or medium starling. 
 Body. Peacock quill dyed in No. IX. 
 Hackle and Whisk. Red game cock. 
 Hook, o, 00 or 000. 
 A larger size, dressed on a No. 2 hook, is found 
 very killing just after dusk. This pattern is a 
 great improvement on the old-fashioned red quill, 
 with body of undyed peacock, and, for a variety, 
 can be made with the addition of a flat gold tag. 
 
 The red quill is one of the sheet anchors of 
 a dry-fly fisherman on a strange river, when in 
 doubt. 
 
ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 91 
 
 26. Red Spinner. 
 
 Wings. Honey dun cock-hackle points. 
 
 Body. Peacock or Adjutant quill dyed in 
 No. IX. and ribbed with fine gold wire. 
 
 Hackle. Black butted red game cock. 
 
 Whisk. From a pale cream-coloured Dork- 
 ing cock hackle. 
 
 Hook, o, 00 or 000. 
 Mr. Marryat's well-known pattern. 
 
 27. Detached Red Spinner. 
 
 Wings. Honey dun cock-hackle points. 
 
 Body. Foundation of doubled bristle dyed 
 in No. IX. ; white horsehair also dyed 
 in No. IX., worked over this foundation, 
 and the body ribbed with crimson tying- 
 silk. 
 
 Hackle. Red game cock. 
 
 Whisk. Pale cream colour. 
 
 Hook, o, 00 or 000. 
 An improvement on No. 26. 
 
 28. Claret Spinner. 
 
 Wings. Pale starling. 
 Body. Claret floss silk ribbed with fine gold 
 
 wire. 
 Hackle. Red game cock. 
 Whisk. Pale cream colour. 
 Hook, o, 00 or 000. 
 
92 ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 
 
 Nos. 26 and 27 are evening patterns of the red 
 spinner, but In the early morning, especially in hot 
 weather, the claret spinner will frequently be found 
 a more killing fly. 
 
 29. Ginger Quili^. 
 
 Wings. Palest starling. 
 
 Body. Peacock quill dyed very slightly in 
 
 No. IX. 
 Hackle and Whisk. Pale brown ginger. 
 Hook, o, 00 or 000. 
 A very good dressing of the pale tints of dun so 
 prevalent during the hot weather. 
 
 30. Badger Quill. 
 
 Wings, Pale starling. 
 Body. Black quill from chaffinch tail. 
 Hackle. Badger cock (dark brown, nearly 
 black centre, and cream-coloured points). 
 Whisk. Pale cream colour. 
 Hook. 00 or 000. 
 This is probably taken for the very dark, nearly 
 black spinner, occasionally out in the evenings at 
 the end of April and later in the season. 
 
 31. WiCKHAM. 
 
 Wings. Medium or light starling. 
 Body. Flat gold ribbed with fine gold wire. 
 Hackle. Bright red Bantam cock carried 
 from shoulder to tail. 
 
Plate III 
 
 2n 
 
 Red Qiiill, 
 
 w 
 
 Bed. SpiniKT . DetacliedRed Spitiuer . 
 
 'Z9 
 
 30 
 
 Claret Spiiuier 
 
 Ginger Quill . 
 
 CIF 
 
 Badser Qmll . 
 
 HI 
 
 Wickkaiii. 
 
 32 
 
 Pink Wickliam. 
 
 CinnriittoiL Quill. 
 
 7A 
 
 liidL'ni Yellow. 
 
 35 
 
 Little "Mamviit 
 
 3G 
 
 BhieWinoed Olivi 
 
ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 93 
 
 Whisk. From bright red Bantam cock's 
 
 beard hackle. 
 Hook, o, 00, or 000. 
 In dressing this and the succeeding fly, No. 32, 
 wing as usual, secure root-end of hackle, tie in 
 whisk, then fasten in flat gold for body, and gold 
 wire for ribbing ; carry the tying-silk to shoulder, 
 form, and fasten in the flat gold body. Turn the 
 hackle two or three turns close behind the wings, 
 and carry it in open, regularly-spaced coils to tail- 
 end of the fly, where secure It with two turns of 
 the gold wire ; rib up the body with the gold wire 
 between the turns of hackle to head, where fasten 
 in the wire ; finish and varnish as usual. This 
 most useful fly, if dressed by the above improved 
 method, will last out three or four of the ordinary 
 shop flies, in which the extreme ends of the hackle 
 only are secured. 
 
 32. Pink Wickham. 
 
 Wings. Landrail. 
 
 Body. \ 
 
 Hackle and Whisk. \ As No. 31. 
 
 Hook. J 
 
 A most successful pattern for " smutting " fish 
 when dressed on very small hooks, 00 or 000. 
 
 33. Cinnamon Quill. 
 
 Wings. Pale starling. 
 
 Body. The root-ends of some strands of 
 
94 ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 
 
 peacock herl when stripped are exactly 
 this colour, but if such are not pro- 
 curable, bleach an ordinary peacock eye 
 in Dioxide of Hydrogen, and dye it 
 slightly in No. IX. 
 Hackle and Whisk, Pale sandy ginger. 
 Hook, o or oo. 
 This is one of the many brown-tinted autumn 
 or winter duns, and for a variety can be dressed 
 with pale coot wings. It is essentially a gray- 
 ling fly for August, September, and even Oc- 
 tober. 
 
 34. Indian Yellow. 
 
 Wings. Inside grouse wing from a young 
 bird or pale coot. 
 
 Body. Floss silk about the colour of natural 
 Russia leather, ribbed with bright lemon- 
 coloured tying-silk. 
 
 Hackle and Whisk. Pale buff - coloured 
 Cochin cock. 
 
 Head. Three or four turns of orange tying- 
 silk. 
 
 Hook, o or 00. 
 Mr. Aldam's pattern, and an excellent one, espe- 
 cially for grayling. 
 
 35. Little Marry at. 
 
 Wings. Palest starling. 
 Body. Fur from flank of the Australian 
 opossum. 
 
ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 95 
 
 Hackle and Whisk, Pale buff Cochin cock. 
 Hook. 00 or 000. 
 Mr. Marryat's imitation of the pale watery dun 
 prevalent in August, September, and October. 
 
 36. Blue-Winged Olive, 
 Wings. Pale coot. 
 
 Body, Peacock quill dyed in No. II. 
 Hackle and Whisk, Dyed in No. II. 
 Hook, o or 00. 
 This dun hatches chiefly in the evenings during 
 the latter part of July, August, and occasionally 
 even September. 
 
 Nos. I to 36 inclusive are upright winged 
 duns. 
 
 -^"j. Hackle Red Spinner. 
 
 Hackle, Honey dun cock over three or four 
 
 turns of black ostrich at shoulder. 
 Body, Peacock or Adjutant quill dyed in 
 
 No. IX., ribbed with fine gold wire. 
 Whisk. Pale cream colour. 
 Hook, o or 00. 
 
 38. Brown Badger. 
 
 Hackle, Badger cock. 
 
 Body. Peacock quill dyed in No. IX. 
 
 Whisk. Pale cream colour. 
 
 Hook, o or 00. 
 Nos. 37 and 38 are two of Mr. Marryat's patterns 
 of red spinner. 
 
96 ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 
 
 39. Detached Badger. 
 Hackle. Badger cock. 
 
 Body, White horsehair dyed in No. IX. 
 worked over a foundation of doubled 
 bristle also dyed in No. IX., and the 
 body ribbed with crimson tylng-sllk. 
 Whisk, Pale cream colour. 
 Hook, o or 00. 
 Without wishing to appear egotistical, I con- 
 sider this the best imitation yet produced of the 
 red spinner. 
 
 40. Olive Badger. 
 Hackle. Badger cock. 
 
 Body. Peacock quill dyed in No. II. with 
 
 flat gold tag. 
 Whisk. Pale cream colour. 
 Hook, o or 00. 
 The dressing of the olive spinner. 
 
 41. Jenny Spinner. 
 Hackle. Badger cock. 
 
 Body. Detached of white horsehair worked 
 on undyed bristle, with four or five 
 turns of crimson tying-silk at both 
 ends. 
 
 Whisk. Pale cream colour. 
 
 Hook. 00 or 000. 
 
40 
 
 vy> 
 
 W 
 
 Lluir iV 
 
 4 "^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ,,.1^1,. 7<,.a S|'iM^-r 1'>iMAs-u ?.;ul,^er. DelachedBad^er. 
 
 4-2 
 
 ¥ 
 
 uiw r>;ui,^er. .Jenny .^[.luin'f Harkl»- Olive Qiiill . 
 
 44- 
 
 4?5 
 
 lladdeBiutiluUi. Grizzly Blue. HacMe Hare's Ear. 
 
 4-7 
 
 4-b 
 
 ^ 
 
 ackle Iron Blue Needle Brown. Little Cliap. 
 
ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 97 
 
 Mr. H. S. Hall's original pattern of the ''Jenny 
 Spinner " was dressed with this body, and winged 
 with palest silvery dun hackle-points, but I prefer 
 the buzz form with badger hackles for all spinners. 
 
 42. Hackle Olive Quill. 
 Hackle, Pale silvery dun cock. 
 
 Body, Peacock quill dyed in No. VHI. 
 Whisk, White cock's-beard hackle dyed in 
 
 No. H. 
 Hook, o or 00. 
 This is the olive quill dressed " buzz." The 
 colour of body can be varied by dyeing in Nos. 
 I., n., or HI., and using a darker dun hackle 
 according to the shade of the body. 
 
 43. Hackle Blue Quill. 
 Hackle, Pale honey dun cock. 
 Body. Undyed peacock quill. 
 
 WJdsk. From honey dun cock's beard- 
 hackle. 
 Hook, o or 00. 
 Similar to the Devonshire " Blue Upright." 
 
 44. Grizzly Blue. 
 
 Hackle. Grizzled blue cock. 
 
 Body, Pale mole fur spun on pale yellow 
 
 silk. 
 Hook. I , o or 00. ' 
 
98 ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 
 
 45. Hackle Hare's Ear. 
 Hackle. Pale blue dun cock. 
 
 Body. Dark fur from hare's face ribbed 
 
 with fine flat gold. 
 Whisk. From red cock's beard hackle. 
 Hook, o or 00. 
 The hackle tying of the '' Gold- Ribbed Hares 
 Ear:' 
 
 46. Hackle Iron Blue. 
 Hackle. Dark blue dun cock. 
 
 Body. Quill split from feather of old starling 
 
 or coot wing. 
 Whisk. From dark blue dun cock's beard 
 
 hackle. 
 Hook. 00. 
 
 47. Needle Brown. 
 Hackle. Honey dun cock. 
 Body. Orange tying-silk. 
 
 Tag. Very pale primrose floss silk. 
 Hook. GO Long. 
 Mr. Marryat's imitation of the female *' Needle 
 Brown," the tag representing the eggs. 
 
 48. Little Chap. 
 
 Hackle. Pale blue dun cock. 
 
 Body, Copper-coloured peacock herl. 
 
 Hook, o or GO. 
 
ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 99 
 
 49. Yellow Bumble. 
 
 Hackle. Pale blue dun cock. 
 
 Body, Primrose floss silk ribbed with strand 
 
 of peacock sword-feather. 
 Hook, o Long or 00 Long. 
 
 50. Orange Bumble. 
 Hackle. Honey dun cock. 
 
 Body. Orange floss silk ribbed with a strand 
 of peacock sword-feather, and with fine 
 flat gold. 
 
 Hook, o Long or 00 Long. 
 
 51. Claret Bumble. 
 
 Hackle. Medium blue dun cock. 
 
 Body. Claret floss silk ribbed with a strand 
 of peacock sword-feather. 
 
 Hook, o Long or 00 Long. 
 Nos. 49, 50 and 51 are invaluable patterns for 
 hot weather, and good killers for grayling through- 
 out the autumn — in fact, the " Orange Bumble " 
 has proved so successful on the Test that many 
 prominent anglers in that part of the country 
 usually style it the " P7iceless Bumble T 
 
 52. Furnace. 
 
 Hackle. Furnace or Coch-y-bonddhu (centre 
 and extreme points black, and remainder 
 of hackle blood red). 
 
loo ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 
 
 Body, Orange floss silk ribbed with a strand 
 of peacock sword-feather, and with fine 
 flat gold. 
 
 Hook, o Long or oo Long. 
 A very favourite hot-weather pattern. 
 
 53. Corkscrew. . 
 
 Hackle. Brown ginger cock. 
 Body. The quill of a red-brown partridge 
 tail-feather from which the plume has 
 been entirely cut away with scissors. 
 Hook. I, o, or 00. 
 Before using the quill for the body, flatten it 
 well by drawing it backwards and forwards be- 
 tween the thumb-nail and forefinger. In small 
 streams or coloured water it is considered irre- 
 sistible by Mr. Marryat, to whose Inventive genius 
 this pattern is due. 
 
 54. Sanctuary. 
 
 Hackle. Coch-y-bonddhu. 
 
 Body. Dark hare's-ear ribbed with fine flat 
 
 gold. 
 Hook. 2, I, or o. 
 The invention of Dr. Sanctuary, of Salisbury. 
 
 55. Green Insect. 
 Hackle. Pale blue dun. 
 
 Body. Two or three strands of peacock 
 
 sword-feather twisted together. 
 Hook, o or 00. 
 
i'iau; \ 
 
 H) 
 
 Yell(^W B 
 
 oO 
 
 *'ri*,^ 
 
 Orange Biiiul)lf 
 
 Claret BumMe. 
 
 i 
 
 Furnace . 
 
 Corkscrew. 
 
 SartctuuTV. 
 
 
 CilM-t'lL llUStM-l 
 
 56 
 
 Red Tag, 
 
 57 
 
 Orange Tag. 
 
 ,^8 
 
 ilalr SioiiK 
 
 59 
 
 4 
 
 Codi-Y-Buii(l(llai 
 
 GO 
 
 ITicklc ilcd /uit 
 
 YbrcCTTtBrocl -: Z'O'Vvfi.'.'iir,. 
 
ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES, loi 
 
 A very useful grayling fly in the late autumn 
 and winter. 
 
 56. Red Tag. 
 
 Hackle. Blood-red game cock. 
 
 Body. Copper-coloured peacock herl, two 
 or three strands twisted together. 
 
 Tag. Ibis or scarlet wool. 
 
 Hook, o or 00. 
 A grand grayling pattern when fished dry, es- 
 pecially in hot weather ; for a variety, dress with 
 silvery dun cock hackle. A new and very killing 
 pattern of the Red Tag, dressed with blood-red 
 hackle, Ibis tag, and body of a single strand of 
 the blue and yellow macaw tail-feather has been 
 lately introduced by Mr. Marryat. 
 
 57. Orange Tag. 
 
 Hackle. Blood-red game cock. 
 Body. Two or three strands of peacock 
 sword-feather twisted together and ribbed 
 with fine flat gold. 
 Tag. Indian crow or orange wool. 
 Hook, o or 00. 
 A variety of No. 56. 
 
 58. Half Stone. 
 
 Hackle. Honey dun cock. 
 
 Body. Lower half of primrose floss silk, 
 
 upper half of pale mole fur. 
 Hook. I Long or o Long. 
 
I02 ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 
 
 The hackle in this fly is carried down as far as 
 the mole fur dubbing. 
 
 59. COCH-Y-BONDDHU. 
 
 Hackle. Coch-y-bonddhu. 
 Body. Of two or three strands copper- 
 coloured peacock herl twisted together. 
 Hook. 2, I, o or 00. 
 For a change, rib the body with flat gold. 
 
 60. Hackle Red Ant. 
 Hackle. Honey dun. 
 
 BtU. Copper-coloured peacock herl. 
 Body. Orange tying-silk. 
 Hook, o or 00. 
 
 61. Grannom Larva. 
 
 Wing. A very small piece of the point of 
 
 a brown partridge hackle. 
 Hackle. Rusty dun. 
 
 Body. Formed by working over the shank 
 of the hook a foundation of pea-green 
 floss silk, and ribbing it with a strand of 
 peacock quill dyed in No. V. 
 Hook. I . 
 For many years the trout at Houghton have 
 fed ravenously on the larva of the grannom, but 
 neglected the fully developed fly, and, after many 
 unsuccessful attempts, this pattern was at last pro- 
 duced by copying the grannom larva taken from 
 the stomach of a fish in 1884. 
 
ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 103 
 
 62. Grannom. 
 
 Wings. Palest hen partridge wing. 
 
 Eggs. Grey ostrich herl dyed in No. V. 
 
 Body. Dark heron herl undyed. 
 
 Hackle. Rusty dun game-cock, or badger 
 for a variety. 
 
 Hook. 3, 2, or r. 
 An even better body for this fly is obtained by 
 selecting a strand of condor pinion-feather, which 
 is nearly white at the point and shading into a 
 dark slate-colour at the root ; the longer flue is 
 then stripped ofl" the dark portion of this strand 
 only, and the whole dyed in No. V. The light 
 unstripped part, which shows distinctly the green 
 colour of the dye, is worked at the tail-end to 
 form the eggs, and the darker portion the body of 
 the fly. The wings of the grannom when first 
 hatched are quite pale, but darken considerably 
 from exposure to the air. The trout, however, 
 invariably prefer the newly-hatched flies, so that 
 it is most necessary to dress them with the palest 
 wings possible. 
 
 63. Alder. 
 
 Wings. Hen pheasant tail. 
 Hackle. Rusty black cock. 
 Body. Copper-coloured peacock-herl. 
 Hook. 2, I, or o. 
 For a change, wing with bustard. This fly 
 
I04 ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 
 
 is too well known and appreciated to need any 
 comment. 
 
 64. Welshman's Button. 
 
 Wings, Brown pink feather from under the 
 wings of a peacock. 
 
 Hackle. Rusty black cock. 
 
 Body. Copper-coloured peacock herl. 
 
 Hook, 3, 2, or I. 
 This fly is usually on the water during the same 
 period as the May-Fly, but hatches earlier in the 
 day, when the imitation is found most killing, 
 and sometimes the fish take it in preference to 
 the May-Fly, even during the heaviest of the 
 rise. 
 
 65. COWDUNG. 
 
 ' Wings. Landrail. 
 Hackle. Ginger cock. 
 Body. Dubbing of crewel to tint. 
 Hook. 2 or I. 
 Occasionally very killing, especially on rough 
 and blustery days. 
 
 66. Red Ant. 
 
 Wings. Pale starling. 
 
 Hackle. Red game cock. 
 
 But. Copper-coloured peacock herl. 
 
 Body. Orange tying-silk. 
 
 Hook, o or 00. 
 
61 
 
 GraimomXaiva , 
 
 62 
 
 (lj-ajiiic)]R. 
 
 6:^ 
 
 w 
 
 Alder 
 
 G1- 
 
 Welslunans Buttrtfi . 
 
 65 
 
 Covvtiiuig . 
 
 6G 
 
 Red Am 
 
 9 
 
 RLick Ant 
 
 68 
 
 f 
 
 69 
 
 m 
 
 Pislici-riiaH's fiifSf. iMslierimin's Curse. 
 
 70 
 
 ^ 
 
 iilack ('riuit.A 
 ( Miiie.) 
 
 71 
 
 % 
 
 black Giiatb. 
 (Female.; 
 
 72 
 
 4 
 
 liiack Glial. (' 
 
ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 105 
 
 One of the very best patterns for both trout 
 and grayhng during the daytime in the hottest 
 weather, and one which is too often neglected by 
 dry-fly fishermen* 
 
 67. Black Ant. 
 
 Wings. Pale starling. 
 
 Hackle. Cock starling. 
 
 But. Black ostrich. 
 
 Body. Black tying-silk. 
 
 Hook, o or 00. 
 It is, to our mind, very questionable whether 
 this pattern is not taken by the fish for two black 
 gnats in the act of sexual intercourse. 
 
 68. Fisherman's Curse A. 
 
 Wings. Palest starling. 
 
 Hackle. Cock starling. 
 
 Body. Strand of cock golden pheasant 
 tail. 
 
 Hook. 000. 
 Mr. Marryat's pattern. 
 Nos. 61 to 68 inclusive are flat-winged flies. 
 
 69. Fisherman's Curse B. 
 
 Hackle. Badger, over three turns of black 
 
 ostrich worked at shoulder. 
 Body. Black tying-silk with flat silver tag. 
 Hook. 000. 
 Sir Maurice Duff-Gordon's pattern. 
 
;od ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 
 
 70. Black Gnat A (Male). 
 
 Wings, Palest starling. 
 
 Body. Black quill from chaffinch tail-feather. 
 
 Hackle. Cock starling worked in front of 
 
 wings. 
 Hook. 00. 
 
 71. Black Gnat B (Female). 
 
 Wings. Starling tail ; select the part of the 
 
 feather with well-defined light brown tip. 
 
 Body. Black quill from chaffinch tail-feather. 
 
 Hackle. Cock starling worked in front of 
 
 wings. 
 Hook. 00. 
 The wings of the female black gnat are longer 
 than those of the male. 
 
 72. Black Gnat C. 
 
 Wings. One strip of prepared pike-scale 
 
 cut to shape. 
 Body. \ 
 
 Hackle. > As No. 71. 
 Hook. J 
 Mr. H. S. Hall's pattern. 
 
 73. Silver Sedge. 
 
 Wings. Landrail. 
 
 Body. White floss silk ribbed with fine 
 silver wire. 
 
ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES, 107 
 
 Hackle, Pale sandy ginger cock hackle, 
 
 carried right down the body. 
 Hook, o to 3. 
 In hot weather, this pattern dressed on a 00 
 hook, kills very well during the afternoon, espe- 
 cially when the fish are feeding on the " Fishermari s 
 CtirseT 
 
 74. Orange Sedge. 
 Wings, Landrail. 
 Hackle. Ginger cock, carried right down 
 
 body. 
 Body, Orange floss silk, ribbed with fine 
 , gold wire. 
 
 Hook, o to 3. 
 Or, for a variety, this can be dressed with a brown 
 hare's-ear body in place of the floss silk. 
 
 ']^. Dark Sedge. 
 
 Wings, Cock pheasant wing. 
 
 Hackle. Rusty coch-y-bonddhu carried right 
 
 down the body. 
 Body, Dubbing of white crewel ribbed with 
 
 gold wire. 
 Hook, o to 3, or even larger occasionally. 
 Usually known at Houghton as Mr. Ham- 
 brouiih's Sedofe. 
 
 76. Hammond's Adopted. 
 Wings. Woodcock wing. 
 
io8 ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 
 
 Hackle, Brown ginger cock carried right 
 
 down the body. 
 Body, Dubbing of brown crewel to shade, 
 
 ribbed with gold wire. 
 Hook. 2 to 4. 
 The late John Hammond's famous Winchester 
 pattern. 
 
 ']^. Artful Dodger. 
 
 Wings, Cock pheasant wing. 
 
 Hackle. Blood-red cock carried right down 
 
 the body. 
 Body. Dubbing of purple crewel to shade 
 
 ribbed with gold wire. 
 Hook. 2 to 4. 
 For a variety, dress with dark sage-green dub- 
 bing body. A good killer during the May- Fly, both 
 for day and evening. 
 
 ']Z. Coachman. 
 
 Wings. White Swan or any other white 
 feather. 
 
 Hackle. Red cock. 
 
 Body. Copper-coloured peacock herl. 
 
 Hook. I to 4. 
 A good night pattern. 
 
 79. Harlequin. 
 
 Wings. From jay wing. 
 Hackle. Black cock. 
 
'J^. 
 
 ■00 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 •c/D 
 
 ■J^. 
 
 
 ^^W 
 
 V 
 
 'Jl 
 
ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES, 109 
 
 Body, Lower half orange floss silk, upper 
 half blue floss silk, the whole body ribbed 
 with gold wire. 
 Hook, o to 3. 
 An old-fashioned patterji, which might with ad- 
 vantage be used by the modern school of Anglers, 
 especially for evening fishing. 
 
 80. Governor. 
 
 Wings, Woodcock. 
 
 Hackle, Ginger cock. 
 
 Tag. Primrose floss silk. 
 
 Body. Copper-coloured peacock herl. 
 
 Hook, o to 3. 
 
 81. Large WiCKHAM. 
 
 Wings. Jay. 
 
 Hackle. Red game cock carried right down 
 
 body. 
 Body, Flat gold ribbed with gold wire. 
 Hook. 2 to 4. 
 Although usually called a Wickham, of which it 
 is a sort of magnified edition, this is really a form 
 of large Sedge fly, and should only be used at night. 
 Nos. 70 to 81 inclusive are flat winged flies. 
 
 Green Drakes. 
 
 The following patterns of Green Drakes and 
 Spent Gnats, or Black Drakes, should all be 
 
no ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 
 
 dressed on No. 2, 2 long, 3, 3 long, 4, or 4 long 
 hooks. 
 
 A. Wings. Canadian Summer or Wood Duck. 
 Head. Bronze peacock herl. 
 Hackles. The first a hen pheasant dyed in 
 
 No. II., and the second a good blue 
 
 Andalusian cock. 
 Whisk. Four or five strands of Brown 
 
 Mallard wing- feather. 
 Body. Detached, of white horsehair over 
 
 wheaten straw or cigarette maize, worked 
 
 on a doubled undyed bristle, and the 
 
 body ribbed with well waxed yellow 
 
 tying-silk. 
 
 13. Wings. Canadian Summer or Wood Duck. 
 Head. Bronze peacock herl. 
 Shoulder Hackle. Grey hen dyed slightly in 
 
 No. II. 
 Ribbing Hackle. Pale ginger cock. 
 Body. Straw or maize ribbed with crimson 
 
 tying-silk. 
 Whisk. Brown Mallard, 
 Or, for a variety, instead of carrying the ginger 
 hackle down to the tail-end, turn it at shoulder 
 close behind the grey hen hackle, and rib the 
 body with fine flat gold and with the crimson 
 tying-silk. 
 
ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. iii 
 
 c. Wings. Canadian Summer or Wood Duck. 
 Head, Bronze peacock herl. 
 Shoulder Hackle, Hen pheasant dyed in 
 
 No. II. 
 Ribbhig Hackle. Blue Andalusian Cock. 
 Body, Straw or maize ribbed with pale 
 
 tying-silk. 
 Whisk, Brown Mallard. 
 
 D. Wings, Rouen Drake, dyed in No. IV. 
 Head. Bronze peacock herl. 
 
 Shoulder Hackle, Grey Partridge, dyed in 
 
 strong tea. 
 Ribbing Hackle. Pale ginger cock. 
 Body. Straw or maize ribbed with crimson 
 
 tying-silk. 
 Whisk. Brown Mallard. 
 
 E. Wings, Rouen Drake dyed in No. IV. 
 Head, Bronze Peacock herl. 
 
 Hackles. The first a grey partridge dyed 
 in strong tea, and the second a pale 
 ginger cock. 
 Body, Straw or maize ribbed with fine fiat 
 
 gold and crimson tying-silk. 
 
 Whisk. Brown Mallard. 
 
 In the Green Drake Patterns d and e, the wings 
 
 are dyed to the colour of the late John Hammond's 
 
 " Champion.'' Many fishermen prefer the wings of 
 
 a greener tint, and certainly in the natural fiy they 
 
TI2 ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 
 
 are more decidedly blue green, and less decidedly 
 brown, than the " Champion!' If a small quantity 
 of dye No. I. be mixed with No. IV., this green 
 shade will be obtained, or No. II. is an inter- 
 mediate tint between No. I. and No. IV. As far 
 as killing is concerned, I have found no pattern 
 with dyed wings so uniformly successful as the 
 '' Champion^ dressed on a 2 hook, although my 
 personal predilection is for the feathers from the 
 undyed Canadian Summer Duck, a bird, which, un- 
 fortunately, is rapidly becoming extinct, owing to 
 the great demand for the barred feathers on the 
 part of the Salmon fly-dressers. 
 
 F. Wifigs. Rouen Drake undyed. 
 Head, Bronze peacock herl. 
 Shoulder^ Hackle. Hen pheasant dyed in 
 
 No. II. 
 Ribbing Hackle. Blue Andalusian cock. 
 Body, Straw or maize ribbed with pale 
 
 olive tying- silk. 
 Whisk. Brown mallard. 
 An endless variety of green drakes can be made 
 with the materials given for the above patterns, 
 some ribbed with tinsel, and both hackles worked 
 close up behind the wings, and others with the 
 cock hackles carried right down body. Wings of 
 Egyptian Goose are also very effective, and, for 
 the shoulder hackles, florican, bittern, &c., can be 
 used. 
 
ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 115 
 
 Spent Gnats or Black Drakes. 
 
 A. Wings. Of four blue Andalusian cock 
 
 hackles, set on flat, selecting those with 
 well-defined ginger points. 
 
 Head. Bronze peacock herl. 
 
 Hackles. The first a grey partridge hackle 
 and the second a good badger (Dorking) 
 cock hackle. 
 
 Body. Detached, of white horsehair on 
 foundation of an undyed doubled bristle ; 
 three or four turns of bronze peacock 
 herl are worked on the bristle at the tail- 
 end, under the horsehair, to form the dark 
 ribs at the tail of the natural fly ; the body 
 is ribbed up at intervals with a single turn 
 of pale olive tying-silk. 
 
 Whisk. Brown mallard. 
 
 B. Wings. Four blue -Andalusian hackles as 
 
 above. 
 
 Head. Bronze peacock herl. 
 
 Shoulder Hackle. Grey partridge. 
 
 Ribbing Hackle. Badger cock. 
 
 Body. White floss silk ribbed with an un- 
 stripped strand of peacock, which is cinna- 
 mon-coloured at root and dark at point, 
 the dark portion being worked at the tail- 
 end. 
 
 Whisk. Brown mallard. 
 
114 ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 
 
 c. Wings. Breast or saddle feathers from the 
 pintail. 
 
 Head, Bronze peacock herl. 
 
 Shoulder Hackle. Grey partridge. 
 
 Ribbing Hackle. Badger cock. 
 
 Body. Of straw or maize ribbed with pale 
 olive tying-silk, and with a strand of 
 peacock herl, cinnamon-coloured at root. 
 
 Whisk. Brown mallard. 
 Dress all Spent Gnats in the following manner : — 
 Set on the wings by laying the four hackles 
 horizontally on top of the hook, near the head, two 
 pointing to each side, or the two pintail feathers, 
 one on each side, secured by binding diagonally in 
 both directions with the tying-silk ; turn the root- 
 ends of the four hackles, or the two pintail feathers, 
 back toward the tail-end of the fly and bind them 
 down securely with the tying-silk ; then work on 
 the head, fasten in and turn the shoulder hackle. In 
 the pattern with detached body proceed from this 
 point as usual with that class of fly ; but with other 
 patterns carry the tying-silk to the tail-end of the 
 fly, where secure and set up the whisk, lap the silk 
 back to the shoulder, fasten in the floss silk for the 
 body^ the peacock herl for ribbing with the light 
 end at the shoulder and the root-end of the ribbing 
 hackle, carrying the tying-silk back to the tail-end ; 
 work down the body, securing it at the tail, and 
 cutting off refuse ; rib the body in regularly spaced 
 open folds with the herl, which fasten in at tail, and 
 
i'UW lA 
 
 S |)(iil ( . ii.it or hi ack I)im1\c 
 
ON ARTIFICIAL FLIES. 115 
 
 cut away any remnant ; turn hackle two or three 
 turns close up to and behind the wings, and then 
 in open folds down to the tail, each fold imme- 
 diately in front of and against the projecting ribs of 
 the herl ; secure end of hackle with two laps of the 
 tying-silk, finish at tail with whij) finish, and touch 
 with varnish. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 HINTS TO DRY-FLY FISHERMEN. 
 
 FANCY I can hear the readers of the 
 preceding chapters exclaim, '* True, you 
 have given us a considerable amount . 
 of information about the materials required, and 
 the best methods of tying floating flies. True, 
 we have a goodly list of patterns of floating flies, 
 and the feathers, &c., for dressing them ; but not 
 one word, as yet, as to how we are to use these 
 infallible devices." This train of reasoning ap- 
 pears so cogent that, although In the original 
 conception of the work there was no intention of 
 referring to this branch of the subject, I will try 
 and give a few practical hints on dry-fly fishing, 
 leaving anything like a full treatise on so important 
 a matter to a future volume, which I hope some 
 day to submit to the Angling world. 
 
 For obvious reasons it is as well not to enter on 
 any controversy as to the comparative merits of 
 the two schools of fly-fishing : — the wet or North 
 Country style, and the dry or South Country style. 
 Each is beyond doubt effective in Its own particu- 
 
HINTS TO DRY-FLY FISHERMEN. 117 
 
 lar streams and under circumstances favouring its 
 use, and a considerable degree of science is attained 
 by the earnest followers of both. We Southern 
 anglers are far too prone to look down on what 
 was wittily described in " The Fishing Gazette," as 
 the '' chuck and chance it " style, and our North 
 Country friends are too apt to chaff us for our 
 enforced idleness when the jish are not rising. 
 Let each pin his faith to the particular school in 
 which he believes, but at the same time let each 
 admit that there is a certain degree of skill in his 
 opponent's method, and arguments to be advanced 
 in favour of its relative success. One word of 
 advice, however, to our North Country and Scotch 
 friends : — when you find in one of the streams you 
 frequent that your trout from being overfished are 
 becoming more educated, and consequently more 
 shy, do not be too wedded to your old notions to 
 try the advice of a *' Southron," and see If a single 
 floating fly, fished upstream will not be effectual 
 in basketing some of your otherwise unattainable 
 fish. 
 
 To define dry-fly fishing, I should describe It as 
 presenting to the rising fish the best possible 
 imitation of the Insect on which he is feeding In 
 its natural position. To analyse this further, It is 
 necessary, firstly, to find a fish feeding on the 
 winged insect ; secondly, to present to him a good 
 Imitation of this insect, both as to size and colour ; 
 thirdly, to present it to him In its natural position, 
 
ii8 HINTS TO DRY-FLY FISHERMEN. 
 
 or floating on the surface of the water with its 
 wings up, or what we technically term, *' cocked ; '* 
 fourthly, to put the fly lightly on the water, so that 
 it floats accurately over him without drag; and, 
 fifthly, to take care that all these conditions have 
 been fulfilled before the fish has seen the Angler or 
 the reflection of his rod. 
 
 The first point, viz. : — To find a fish rising at 
 the winged insect, may not, at the first glance, 
 appear difficult, but it is astonishing to how great 
 a degree the success of the Angler depends on his 
 judgment in this particular respect. Merely to 
 note the disturbance caused by the movement of 
 the fish is, of course, a question of sight ; but when 
 looking from any distance, it is not quite easy to 
 define exactly the precise spot at which the dis- 
 turbance took place. Suppose even the fish is 
 rising close to the bank and you mark down care- 
 fully the very blade of grass against which the ring 
 of the feeding trout is seen, you must remember 
 that, as a general rule, it is the sound which first 
 attracts your attention, and in the moment which 
 must elapse between hearing the rise and catching 
 sight of the disturbed surface of the stream, the 
 ring or bubble made by the fish has been carried 
 some feet down by the current. When, however, 
 the rise is in mid stream, it is far more difficult : the 
 only mark by which the place can be defined is 
 usually the apparent distance between the ring and 
 some broken line on the surface of the stream, 
 
HINTS TO DRY-FLY FISHERMEN, 119 
 
 which broken Hne Is continually changing in con- 
 tour and in relative position. Then, again, it is 
 necessary to be certain that the movement on the 
 face of the stream is caused by a fish at all : it may 
 be a moorhen, a dabchick, or even a rat^ or a mere 
 break in the water caused by some obstruction 
 fixed transversely to the direction of the current. 
 Even if caused by a fish, it may not be what we 
 mean by a rise, or the act of sucking in a winged 
 fly : it may be made by the tail of a trout breaking 
 the surface in his endeavours to force his head 
 further into the weeds, where he is busily engaged 
 in gorging himself with fresh-water shrimps or 
 snails. Sometimes on a careful scrutiny of the 
 position it will be noticed that the apparently 
 rising fish is never for a moment in the same spot, 
 but keeps moving backwards and forwards to the 
 right and to the left, causing continual waves, but 
 scarcely ever actually taking any fly from the 
 surface of the water. In this case the fish is 
 feeding on the undeveloped grub, or larva, rising 
 towards the surface before splitting open its 
 '' shuck " or case, and emerging a winged fly ; and 
 if this metamorphosis takes place at the very 
 moment the fish is in the act of seizing the larva, it 
 usually takes the winged fly instead. Practically 
 speaking, a fish feeding either on shrimp, snail, 
 or larvae, is to be avoided by the dry-fly fisherman, 
 although occasionally, even under these conditions, 
 he may be tempted by a fly floating over him. 
 
120 HINTS TO DRY-FLY FISHERMEN, 
 
 The second point, or production of good imita- 
 tions both as to size and colour of the various flies 
 frequenting the streams, has, I venture to submit, 
 been sufficiently treated of in previous chapters. 
 
 The third point, viz. : — that of presenting this 
 good imitation in a natural position, that is, floating 
 on the surface with its wings up or " cocked," will 
 require some space to consider in detail. As 
 to floating, it will be noticed that the methods of 
 dressing and patterns given in preceding chapters 
 are specially contrived for that purpose, and hence 
 the flies are all much fuller in hackle (and the 
 winged ones in wings also) than those generally in 
 use by North Country fishermen. A word, too, 
 " en passant." Do not imagine that hackle flies are 
 not good floaters ! This is a delusion : when dry 
 they float as well or even better than winged ones, 
 and there is besides one very decided advantage 
 in their use, viz. : — that, in whatever position they 
 fall on the water, they are never on their backs or 
 sides, but invariably floating In the natural position. 
 In all flies, whether winged or not, the active agent 
 in keeping them afloat is the hackle, and hence the 
 advice to put plenty of turns of hackle on all pat- 
 terns for use by the dry-fly fisherman. 
 
 When new, the fly, of course, floats naturally, 
 and the first throw with a new fly should accord- 
 ingly be made with the greatest care, as the most 
 likely one to tempt the fish, and also because at 
 each subsequent cast theprobability of his suspicions 
 
HINTS TO DRY-FLY FISHERMEN. 121 
 
 being aroused by some slight mistake is ever in- 
 creasing. After the fly has once been wetted, it 
 must not be returned at once to the water, but 
 thoroughly dried by making a series of false casts 
 backwards and forwards in the air, so as to free the 
 hackle, wings, and body from all moisture. In the 
 act of '' drying the fly," as this process of wafting it 
 to and fro is called, as well as in the act of throwing, 
 I need scarcely caution the experienced fly-fisher 
 to give ample time to the line to travel out to its 
 full extent before returning it, neglect of this pre- 
 caution causing the fly to be *' cracked off" and 
 necessitating the loss of fly as well as time, and 
 occasionally temper, in knotting on a fresh one. 
 
 As to '' cocking," as before remarked, hackle- 
 flies are invariably in their natural position when 
 floating, but, when fishing winged-flies, the over- 
 handed cast in general use among Anglers will be 
 successful, possibly, once out of four casts. The 
 reason of this probably is that when the fly touches 
 the water any excess of force put into the throw, 
 not being expended, causes a further forward 
 motion of the line or gut cast, and this topples the 
 fly over on to its side. The horizontal or '' under- 
 handed cast " should be used wherever practicable ; 
 the entire secret of it consists in keeping the rod, 
 whether returning or throwing, in a horizontal posi- 
 tion or parallel to the surface of the stream. 
 
 This cast will *' cock " a thoroughly dry fly at 
 least three times out of four, and the reason of this 
 
122 HINTS TO DRY-FLY FISHERMEN. 
 
 probably Is that the underhanded action propels 
 the fly out In a horizontal Hne at a sHght elevation 
 above the level of the water, and the effect of any 
 excess of force in it Is simply to pull the fly back 
 a slight distance In the air by the recoil of the rod, 
 and, In the act of falling, the weight of metal In 
 the bend of the hook, as well as the balancing- 
 effect of the wings separated in the shape of the 
 letter V, tends to keep the fly In its natural po- 
 sition with the wings up. There are also two 
 other strong points in favour of the ''underhanded 
 cast " : — Firstly, that the rod-point being always 
 kept down is never over the water, and the re- 
 flection of It, or of the waving motion of the rod, 
 must be less visible to the flsh than In the case of 
 the ordinary overhanded throw ; secondly, that 
 practically speaking, the Angler who can and does 
 use this cast is Independent of the direction of the 
 wind, and can direct the fly actually In the teeth 
 of anything short of an absolute gale. It must, 
 however, be noted that it Is far more difficult to 
 place the fly accurately with the underhanded 
 cast, than with the ordinary overhanded one, as 
 when throwing underhanded the rod-point, and 
 consequently the fly, travels horizontally across 
 the point aimed at, and not vertically down on It. 
 Now, to consider the fourth desideratum, viz. : — 
 To place the fly lightly on the water so that it 
 floats accurately over the fish without the slightest 
 drag ; in other words, delicacy and accuracy of 
 
HINTS TO DRY-FLY FISHERMEN. 123 
 
 casting and making the fly drift over the fish in a 
 motion and direction similar to that of the natural 
 insect. Delicacy should ensure that the fly lands 
 on the water lightly without the smallest splash or 
 disturbance of the placid surface ; in fact, as a 
 general rule, when watching your own throw, you 
 ought really to be at a loss to say how the fly did 
 fall on the water. To accomplish this, beginners 
 should bear in mind that, although it is possible 
 to deliver the line too high in the air, this is a far 
 less fatal mistake than to dash it down on the 
 water, and, as a rule, one sliould study to throw 
 as if the level of the water was at least a foot 
 above its actual plane. Accuracy is of the highest 
 importance ; the fly should be so placed that it 
 floats down over the very ring of the rising fish 
 at the first attempt. ** Ce n'est que le premier pas 
 qui coute." The first throw over a feeding fish is 
 far more likely to rise him than any subsequent 
 one, and the probability of tempting a fish varies 
 inversely as the number of casts made over him. 
 
 To make the fly drift over the fish in a motion 
 and direction similar to that of the natural insect 
 is the very keystone of the arch. Wherever 
 possible, keep well out of sight by crouching, 
 kneeling down, or wading below the rising fish, 
 and throw the fly up stream so that it lands above 
 the fish at a distance of from one and a half yards 
 to as little as twelve inches, according to the 
 strength of the stream^ and place it so that it floats 
 
124 HINTS TO DRY-FLY FISHERMEN. 
 
 down accurately over the very spot where the 
 trout or grayling Is feeding. As the fly comes 
 down stream, raise the point of the rod slowly, 
 just enough to lift the slack line off the water, but 
 by no means attempt to impart any motion to the 
 fly, or to hurry it down the run, this being a sub- 
 version of the usual course taken by the natural fly, 
 which, except in the case of the grannom and alder, 
 floats without the slightest motion of the wings. 
 
 Where it is impracticable to throw up stream, 
 cast across and slightly up, and, where this is im- 
 possible, cast directly across, and lower the hand 
 slowly as the fly floats down, so as not to drag it. 
 In all cases, and under all conditions, note as a 
 fundamental principle that a fly ''dragging," that 
 is, moving more rapidly or more slowly than the 
 stream at the particular point, or floating in a 
 direction different to that taken by the natural 
 insect in a similar position, and so causing a break 
 or " wake " in the water, is comporting itself in an 
 eccentric and unnatural fashion, and will, in all 
 probability and among very shy fish for an ab- 
 solute certainty not delude them into a belief of 
 its being the living fly. 
 
 Occasionally, however, it is impossible, either 
 owinof to natural obstructions on the bank or 
 other causes, to fish a spot excepting by casting 
 directly, or nearly directly, down stream ; and in 
 such a position a thoroughly dry fly floated down 
 *' cocked," is frequently efficacious ; but in case it 
 
HINTS TO DRY-FLY FISHERMEN. 125 
 
 is not taken, the first throw should be allowed to 
 float without drag well below the fish, and then 
 either be taken off the water in such a direction 
 that the returning motion is invisible to the fish, 
 or, if this be impossible, the line should be drawn in 
 slowly by hand until the fly is well above the fish, 
 and then taken quietly off the water ; otherwise it 
 will certainly set the trout or grayling down. To 
 accomplish this, a good deal more line must be let 
 out than is required to cover the fish, and, in the 
 act of casting, the hand holding the rod must be 
 perceptibly checked so as to pull the fly back and 
 land it on the water with slack line behind it ; the 
 hand is then gradually lowered and the fly allowed 
 to ** drift " zvithotU drag over the rising place of 
 the fish. 
 
 The fifth point referred to as a necessary pre^ 
 caution to ensure success, viz. : — That the four 
 previous conditions — finding a fish feeding on 
 winged insects ; presenting to him a good imitation 
 of the natural insect both as to size and colour ; 
 presenting it to him in its natural position, floating 
 and " cocked ; " and putting it lightly on the water 
 so that it floats accurately over him without drag, — 
 shall have been fulfilled before the fish has caught 
 sight of either the Angler or the reflection of his 
 rod. Is almost an axiom. With fish so shy and so 
 frequently scared as the denizens of the chalk 
 streams, the slightest suspicion of being fished for, 
 and, " a fortiori ", so alarming an Incident as the 
 
126 HINTS TO DRY-FLY FISHERMEN. 
 
 actual perception of a human being, or of the 
 flashing rod carried by him, are nothing more or 
 less than danger signals, the effect of which is to 
 send the frightened trout or grayling off with a rush 
 either to the nearest sheltering weed, or if, as too 
 often, alas ! happens, every patch of weed has been 
 mowed down, madly up or down the stream, 
 communicating the scare to fish after fish, until 
 the surface of the water for scores of yards is 
 positively ploughed by them ** urging on their 
 wild career." 
 
 Hence it is necessary at all times to keep well 
 out of sight, not only the Angler himself, by taking 
 advantage of every hiding-place behind tree, bush, 
 or bunch of sedge, and, as far as possible, creeping 
 along on all fours, and kneeling or sitting down 
 when casting, but also by avoiding the flashing 
 about of the highly varnished rod in the bright 
 sunshine. With respect to the motion of the rod, 
 let me again impress upon the tyro the manifest 
 advantage of the " underhanded cast," by means 
 of which neither the point nor the reflection of 
 the rod, is ever over the rising fish. 
 
 As to the rod, no dry-fly fisherman can ever 
 hope to be quite first-rate unless he uses a single- 
 handed one. With a double-handed rod he cannot 
 really throw further than with the single ; he cannot 
 fish underhanded, and he is utterly powerless to 
 direct his fly against the wind. This style of fishing 
 is far heavier and more clumsy, and, in fact, the 
 
HINTS TO DRY-FLY FISHERMEN, 127 
 
 only advantage of a double-handed rod Is the very 
 small one of having a little more control over a 
 hooked fish, and to my mind this is far outbalanced 
 by the increase of weight he has to carry. For 
 length, ten and a half to eleven feet is sufficient ; 
 or, one of twelve feet made in three joints 
 for choice, can be wielded by an exceptionally 
 powerful man. It should be moderately stiff, 
 and the action true and quick from the hand to 
 the point. The butt should be well set up, and 
 the handle exactly the size to fit the hand ; the 
 middle joint should be springy ; when bent with a 
 heavy strain it should show a fair curve, and when 
 released from that strain, should at once spring 
 back to a straight line. The top joint should not 
 be too slight at the point, or it will suffer when 
 returning a long line. 
 
 As to material, greenheart may be safely re- 
 commended to the majority of Anglers, although 
 personally I prefer six-piece glued-up cane. Do 
 not when buying be misled by any fiashy adver- 
 tisements of cheap (?) but usually rubbishing wares. 
 A really good rod, of well-selected materials, tho- 
 roughly seasoned timber, properly fitted, and well 
 finished, will command a fair price. Above all, do 
 not be tempted to purchase a low-priced glued-up 
 cane rod. The American ones are generally too 
 whippy to suit our Hampshire style of fishing. If 
 the cane is of the proper description, if the sections 
 are split (^lot sawn) out of the solid, and correctly 
 
128 HINTS TO DRY-FLY FISHERMEN. 
 
 shaped and straightened before working up ; if the 
 glueing-up is properly and carefully carried out 
 with glue which will 7^esisl the action of damp, and 
 if varnish be used which will stand, they must be 
 sold at a comparatively high price. Beyond all, do 
 not be deluded by any long-winded praise of the 
 mathematical accuracy of the hexagon formed by 
 the glued cane, nor by any puffing of the excellence 
 of the work as evidenced by the fact that the joins 
 where the sections are glued-up are invisible. 
 The former of these is produced by rasping down 
 the outside or bark of the cane after it is glued-up, 
 or, in other words, taking away from your rod the 
 hardest, most elastic, and most reliable portion of 
 the material of which it is made ; and the invisibility 
 of the joins is a trick specially designed to cover 
 inferior workmanship by filling up any little inac- 
 curacies with '' Plaster-of- Paris " or some cunning 
 ** cement " before varnishing. 
 
 As to the reel-line, solid plaited silk dressed is 
 the best material, although there is plenty of room 
 for improvement in the quality of the silk used, 
 in the mode of plaiting, and in the composition of 
 the dressing. It should be quite stout in the 
 middle, and parallel in thickness throughout, ex- 
 cepting for about five yards at each end, which 
 should gradually taper from the stout to as fine a 
 point as is compatible with the strength required. 
 A line before being used should be kept in a dry 
 place for at least six months, and should be well 
 
HINTS TO DRY-FLY FISHERMEN. 129 
 
 rubbed over with red deer fat from end to end, 
 to render It perfectly waterproof. The deer fat 
 makes the line float on the surface of the water, 
 and the Angler Is enabled by its use to return and 
 consequently throw at least four yards more line 
 than without it. 
 
 The "• collar " or gut cast should be from one 
 and a half to three and a half yards in length, 
 and it must be remembered that, in casting against 
 the wind, the stronger It blows the shorter the 
 length of the gut should be. In throwing down 
 wind, the exact converse should be followed, for 
 the stronger the force of the wind, the longer should 
 be the gut cast. In all cases the upper end should 
 be as stout as the point of the reel-line, and the 
 last three strands next to the fly should be as fine 
 as you dare to use, the intermediate portion forming 
 an even taper. Pay a fair price for the gut, and, 
 if you have the time, knot up the casts yourself, 
 first soaking the gut thoroughly in lukewarm water, 
 and using either of the knots described by my old 
 and valued friend Francis Francis in his ** Book 
 on Angling," and engraved on the plate facing 
 page 97 In the sixth edition of that excellent work. 
 
 One more word of advice. Having succeeded in 
 risingyyour fish, strike him ! By this I do not mean 
 that you should drive with all your might, and make 
 a regular smash, but that you should ^XxW.^froin the 
 reel (that Is, keeping your hand off the line so that 
 it can run freely) with a quick turn of the wrist, just 
 
 K 
 
I30 HINTS TO DRY-FLY FISHERMEN. 
 
 raising your hand sufficiently to drive the hook 
 home. When your fish is hooked, at once place 
 your rod in the vertical position, and put on as 
 much strain as your tackle will bear; if lightly 
 hooked it is any odds you lose the fish sooner or 
 later, and there can be no doubt that the majority 
 of well-hooked fish that get away owe their escape 
 to the want of firmness and decision on the part 
 of the Angler at the first stage of playing. Work 
 him down stream all the time you are playing him, 
 to take him as far as possible from his home ; give 
 your fish the butt as soon as he shows the first 
 signs of giving in, and lead him to the landing 
 net. Lift him out, and, if large enough to kill, 
 give him a smart tap on the head just at the top 
 of the spinal column, to put him out of pain at 
 once ; and if he should be under the limit of size 
 for the water you are fishing, carefully and quickly 
 return him to his native element, dropping him 
 gently in the water, and not dashing him down — 
 a piece of carelessness which frequently stuns and 
 kills both trout and grayling — but giving him a 
 chance of growing to maturity, and yourself or some 
 other honest Angler a hope of sport in the future. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 DJUTANT Quill 
 for bodies, i6. 
 Artificial Flies : — 
 Adjutant Blue, 
 
 87. Plate II., 17. 
 Alder, 103. Plate VI., 63. 
 Artful Dodger, 108. Plate 
 
 VII, 77. 
 Autumn Dun, 88. Plate 
 
 II., 20. 
 Badger Quill, 92. Plate 
 
 III, 30. 
 Black Ant, 105. Plate VI, 
 
 67. 
 Black Gnat (Male) a, 106. 
 
 Plate VI, 70. 
 Black Gnat (Female) b, 106. 
 
 Plate VI., 71. 
 Black Gnat c, 106. Plate 
 
 VI, 72. 
 Black Drake, see Spent Gnat. 
 Blue Dun, 88. Plate II., 19. 
 Blue Quill, 88. Plate II., 
 
 18. 
 Blue Winged Olive, 95. 
 
 Plate III, 36. 
 
 Artificial Flies, continued — 
 Brown Badger, 95. Plate 
 
 IV., 38. 
 Cinnamon Quill, 93. Plate 
 
 IH.,33- 
 Claret Bumble, 99. Plate 
 
 v., 51. 
 
 Claret Spinner, 91. Plate 
 
 III, 28. 
 Coachman, 108. Plate VII., 
 
 78. 
 Coch-y-Bonddhu, 102. Plate 
 
 v., 59- 
 Corkscrew, I GO. Plate V, 5 3. 
 Cowdung, 104, Plate VI., 
 
 65. 
 Dark Olive Quill, 82. Plate 
 
 I., 4. 
 Dark Sedge, 107. Plate 
 
 VII., 75- 
 Detached Badger, 96. Plate 
 
 IV., 39- 
 Detached Iron Blue, ^d, 
 
 Plate II., 13. 
 Detached Olive, 82. Plate 
 
 I, 3- 
 
132 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Artificial Flies, continued — 
 Detached Red Spinner, 91. 
 
 Plate III., 27. 
 Drake's Extractor, 84. Plate 
 
 I, 9- 
 
 Fisherman's Curse a, 105. 
 
 Plate VL, 68. 
 Fisherman's Curse b, 105. 
 
 Plate VI., 69. 
 Flight's Fancy, 85. Plate 
 
 L, II. 
 Furnace, 99. Plate V., 52. 
 Ginger Quill, 92. Plate 
 
 III., 29. 
 Golden Dun, 89. Plate II., 
 
 21. 
 Gold-Ribbed Hare's Ear, 
 
 89. Plate II., 23. 
 Goose Dun, 85. Plate I., 
 
 12. 
 Governor, 109. Plate VII., 
 
 80. 
 Grannom, 103. Plate VI., 
 
 62. 
 Grannom Larva, 102. Plate 
 
 VI., 61. 
 Green Drake, no. Plate 
 
 VIII., A. 
 Green Drake, no. Plate 
 
 VIII., B. 
 Green Drake, in. Plate 
 
 VIIL, c. 
 Green Drake, in. Plate 
 
 VIIL, D. 
 Green Drake, in. Plate 
 
 VIIL, E. 
 Green Drake, 112. Plate 
 
 VIIL, F. 
 
 Artificial Flies, continued — 
 Green Insect, 100. Plate 
 
 v., 55. 
 
 Grizzly Blue, 97. Plate IV., 
 
 44. 
 Hackle Blue Quill, 97. 
 
 Plate IV., 43. 
 Hackle Hare's Ear, 98. 
 
 Plate IV., 45. 
 Hackle Iron Blue, 98. 
 
 Plate IV., 46. 
 Hackle Olive Quill, 97. 
 
 Plate IV., 42. 
 Hackle Red Ant, 102. Plate 
 
 v., 60. 
 Hackle Red Spinner, 95. 
 
 Plate IV., 37. 
 Half Stone, loi. Plate V., 
 
 58. 
 Hammond's Adopted, 107. 
 
 Plate VIL, 76. 
 Hare's Ear, 89. Plate IL, 22. 
 Hare's Ear Quill, 83. Plate 
 
 I., 8. 
 Harlequin, 108. Plate VIL, 
 
 79. 
 India Rubber Olive, 81. 
 
 Plate I., 2. 
 Indian Yellow, 94. Plate 
 
 III., 34. 
 Iron Blue, a, 86. Plate II., 
 
 14. 
 Iron Blue, b, 86. Plate IL, 
 
 15- 
 Iron Blue, c, 86. Plate IL, 
 
 16. 
 Jenny Spinner, 96. Plate 
 
 IV., 41. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 m 
 
 Artificial Flies, continued— 
 Large Wickham, 109. Plate 
 
 VIL, 81. 
 Little Chap, 98. Plate IV., 
 
 48. 
 Little Marryat, 94. Plate 
 
 HI., 35. 
 
 May- Fly, see Green Drake. 
 Medium Olive Quill, 82. 
 
 Plate I., 5. 
 Needle Brown, 98. Plate 
 
 IV. 47- 
 
 No. I Whitchurch, 85. 
 
 Plate L, lo. 
 Olive Badger, 96. Plate 
 
 IV., 40. 
 Orange Bumble, 99. Plate 
 
 v., 50. 
 Orange Sedge, 107. Plate 
 
 VIL, 74. 
 Orange Tag, 1 01. Plate V., 
 
 57. 
 Pale Olive Dun, 83. Plate 
 
 L,7. 
 Pale Olive Quill 82. Plate 
 
 I., 6. 
 Pink Wickham, 93. Plate 
 
 III., 32. 
 Red Ant, 104. Plate VI., 66. 
 Red Quill, 90. Plate III., 
 
 25- 
 Red Spinner, 91. Plate IIL, 
 
 26. 
 RcdTag, loi. Plate v., 56. 
 Rough Olive, 8 1. PlateL, i. 
 Saltoun, 90. Plate II., 24. 
 Sanctuary, 100. Plate V., 
 
 54. 
 
 Artificial Flies, continued — 
 Silver Sedge, 106. Plate 
 
 VII., 73- 
 Spent Gnat, 113. Plate 
 
 IX., A. 
 Spent Gnat, 113. Plate 
 
 IX., B. 
 Spent Gnat, 114. - Plate 
 
 IX., c. 
 Welshman's Button, 104. 
 
 Plate VI., 64. 
 Wickham, 92. Plate III., 
 
 31- 
 Yellow Bumble, 99. Plate 
 
 V, 49. 
 
 Bleaching quill for bodies, 15. 
 Body, dubbing, to form, 49 ; 
 
 figs. 31, 32. 
 Bristles for detached bodies, 
 
 17. 
 
 Bull-dog phers, long, 21, 53; 
 
 fig. 37- 
 Buzz-fly with detached body, 
 
 73- 
 
 Cock gallina neck feathers for 
 whisks, 18. 
 
 Colours of Crawshaw's special 
 dyes, Plate to face p. 30. 
 
 Condor quill for bodies, 16. 
 
 Copper peacock herl improved 
 by dyeing, 15. 
 
 Crawshaw's special dyes, direc- 
 tions for use of, 27. . 
 
 Detached bodies, bristles for 
 foundation of, 17. 
 
34 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Detached bodies, completing 
 
 duns with, 71 ; figs. 68 to 70. 
 Detached bodies, completing 
 
 May-flies with, 73; figs. 71 
 
 to 73. 
 Detached bodies, horsehair 
 
 for, 17. 
 Detached bodies, india-rubbgr 
 
 for, 17. 
 Detached bodies, making buzz- 
 fly with, 73. 
 Detached bodies, making, for 
 
 Jenny Spinner, 68 \ figs. 63, 
 
 64. 
 Detached bodies, making, for 
 
 May-fly, 69 ; figs. 65 to 67. 
 Detached bodies, making, for 
 
 Spent Gnat, 70. 
 Detached bodies, making, of 
 
 horsehair, 67 ; figs. 61, 62. 
 Detached bodies, making, of 
 
 india-rubber, 65; figs. 57 to 
 
 60. 
 Dressing bumbles, Mr. Mar- 
 
 ryat's improved method, 50; 
 
 figs- ZZ to 36. 
 flat -winged flies hackled 
 
 at shoulder, 44; figs. 21 to 
 
 23- 
 
 flat-winged flies hackled 
 
 right down body, 46 ; figs. 
 24 to 26. 
 
 — hackle flies with silk or 
 quill bodies, 48 ; figs. 27 to 
 29. 
 
 — hackle flies with dub- 
 bing bodies, 49 ; figs. 30 to 
 32. 
 
 Dressing May-flies, 61; figs. 
 
 50 to 56. 
 • ordinary upright winged 
 
 duns, 32 ; figs. 12 to 17. 
 
 Spent Gnats, 114. 
 
 upright duns, improved 
 
 method of winging, 57 ; figs. 
 
 44 to 49. 
 
 upright reverse-winged 
 
 duns, 53; figs. 37 to 43. 
 Drying feathers or hackles 
 
 after dyeing, 24. 
 Dubbing, blending, 13. 
 body, to form, 49 ; figs. 
 
 needle, 21. 
 
 used as hackle, 1 2 ; figs. 
 
 8 to 10. 
 Duns with detached bodies, to 
 
 complete, 71 ; figs. 68 to 70. 
 Dyes, Crawshaw's special, 27. 
 directions for use of 
 
 Crawshaw's, 27. 
 recipe for " Brown Olive," 
 
 25- 
 
 — recipe for '* Green 
 Drake " (Mr. Marryat's), 25. 
 
 — recipe for "Green 
 
 Drake " (G. Holland's), 26. 
 — recii^e for " Green Olive," 
 
 24. 
 
 26. 
 
 recipe for " Iron Blue," 
 
 — recipe for ''Medium 
 Olive," 25. 
 
 recipe for " Slate," 26. 
 
 Dyeing, preparation of feathers 
 before, 23. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 135 
 
 Ephemerae, 76. 
 
 Eyed-hooks, advantages of, i. 
 
 Eyed-hooks, knot for attaching 
 
 (Major Turle's), 5 ; figs. 2 
 
 to 6. 
 Eyed-hooks, knot for attaching 
 
 (Mr. Hall's), 4 ; fig. i. 
 
 Feathers, close-plumed, used 
 
 as hackles, 11; fig. 7. 
 for wings, 13. 
 
 preparation before dye- 
 ing, 24. 
 
 preserving from moth. 
 
 Hackles, cock preferable to 
 
 hen, 7. 
 
 deformed, 9. 
 
 — — difficulty in procuring, 8. 
 
 for dyeing, 10. 
 
 formed of dubbing, 12 ; 
 
 figs. 8 to 10. 
 
 length of fibre, 37. 
 
 preserving from moth, 10. 
 
 to dry after dyeing, 24. 
 
 to restore to shape when 
 
 10. 
 Feathers, to dry, after dyeing, 
 
 24. 
 to restore to shape when 
 
 crushed, 24. 
 Fly-dresser's vice, 19; fig- 11. 
 
 Green Drakes, completing with 
 
 detached bodies, 73 ; figs. 
 
 71 to 73. 
 Green Drakes, dressing, 61 ; 
 
 figs. 50 to 56. 
 Green Drakes, maize for bodies 
 
 of, 17. 
 
 crushed, 24. 
 
 — turning, 40. 
 
 — typically perfect, 9. 
 
 Hook, testing temper of, 32. 
 Horsehair for detached bodies, 
 
 17. 
 
 making detached bodies 
 
 of, 67 ; figs. 61, 62. 
 
 India-rubber for detached bo- 
 dies, 17. 
 
 making detached body 
 
 of, 65; figs. 57 to 60. 
 
 Jenny Spinner, making de- 
 tached body for, 68 ; figs. 
 63, 64. 
 
 Green Drakes, making de- ! Legs of flies formed of dub 
 
 tached bodies for, 69 ; figs. 
 
 65 to 67. 
 Green Drakes, straw for bodies 
 
 of, 17. 
 Green peacock herl, 16. 
 
 Hackles, close-plumed feathers 
 used as, 1 1 \ fig. 7. 
 
 bing, 12 ; figs. 8 to 10. 
 Length of wings, 35. 
 Long bull-dog pliers, 21, 53; 
 
 % 37- 
 
 March brown, 80. 
 Maize for May-fly bodies, 17. 
 May-fly bodies, making de- 
 tached, 69 ; figs. 65 to 67. 
 
136 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 May-fly bodies, maize for, 17. 
 
 May-fly bodies, straw for, 1 7. 
 
 May-fly, completing with de- 
 tached bodiesj 73; figs. 71 
 to 73. 
 
 Moth, preserving hackles or 
 feathers from, 10. 
 
 Needle, dubbing, 21. 
 
 Peacock herl^ copper, im- 
 proved by dyeing, 15. 
 Peacock herl, green, 16. 
 Peacock quill for bodies, 14. 
 Peacock quill, to bleach, 15. 
 Pearsall's silk for fly-tying, 18. 
 Phryganidae, 78. 
 Pike scales for wings, 18. 
 Pliers, long bull-dog, 21, 53; 
 
 fig- 37- 
 Preparation of feathers before 
 dyeing, 24. 
 
 Quill for bodies. Adjutant, 16. 
 Quill for bodies, bleaching, 15. 
 Quill for bodies, Condor, 16. 
 Quill for bodies, split from 
 wing and tail feathers, 1 7. 
 
 Quill for bodies, Peacock, 14. 
 
 Scarfing broken tying-silk, ^Z' 
 Spent Gnat, making detached 
 
 bodies for, 70. 
 Spent Gnat, to dress, 114. 
 Straw for May-fly bodies, 17. 
 
 Tag, gold or silver to form, 
 
 37. 
 Temper of hook, testing, 32. 
 Turning the hackle, 40. 
 Tying-silk, Pearsall's, 18. 
 Tying-silk, scarfing broken, 2i^. 
 
 Varnish, 19. 
 
 Vice, fly-dresser's, 19 ; fig. 11. 
 
 Wax, 19. 
 
 Waxing-silk, 33. 
 
 Whip finish, 43 \ figs. 1 8 to 20. 
 
 Whisk, cock beard hackles for, 
 
 18, 38. 
 cockgallina neck feathers 
 
 for, 18. 
 
 fastening on, 38. 
 
 Wings, length of, 35. 
 pike scale, 18. 
 
 CHISWICK press; — C. WHITTINGHAM AND CO., TOOKS COURT, 
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List of Publications. 13 
 
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List of Publications. 13 
 
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List of Publications. ^ 15 
 
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List of Publications. 19 
 
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